No Edition of Lord Byron's Works cam he complete, unless it is published by Mr. Murray, as he alone possesses the Copyright. NOW READY, THE FOLLOWING COPYRIGHT EDITIONS OF LORD BYRON’S LIFE AND WORKS. BYRON’S LIFE AND POEMS. Library Edition. Plates. 17 vols. Fcap. 8vo. 63s. ii. BYRON’S LIFE AND POETRY. Portraits and Vignettes. 2 vols. Royal 8vo. 15s. each, in. BYRON’S POETICAL WORKS. Vignettes. 10 vols. 24mo. 25s. IV. BYRON’S CHILDE HAROLD. With Portrait and Sixty Vignette Engravings. 8vo. 21s. v. BYRON’S CHILDE HAROLD. Vignette. 24mo. 2s. 6d. VI. BYRON’S TALES. Vignettes. 2 vols. 24mo. 5s. VII. BYRON’S DRAMAS. Vignettes. 2 vols. 24mo. 5s. VIII. BYRON’S MISCELLANIES. Vignettes. 3 vols, 24mo. 7s. Gd. IX. BYRON’S DON JUAN. Vignettes. 2 vols. 24mo. 5s. JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. POPULAR BIOGRAPHIES BOSWELL’S LIFE OF DR. SAMUEL JOHNSON. Edited by Mr. Croker. Royal 8vo. 18s. LIFE OF BELISARIUS. By Lord Mahon. Post 8vo. 10s. M. LIFE OF CONDE, SURNAMED THE GREAT. By Lord Mahon. Post 8vo. 6s. LIFE OF LORD CLIVE. By Rev. G. R. Gleig. Post 8vo. 6s. LIFE OF SIR THOMAS MUNRO. By Rev. G. R. Gleig. Post 8vo . 6s. LIFE OF LORD BYRON. By Thomas Moore. Royal 8vo. 15s. LIVES OF THE BRITISH POETS. By Thomas Campbell. Post 8vo. 6s. LIFE OF ROBERT BURNS. By J. G. Lockhart. Fcap. 8vo. 3s. LIFE OF REV. GEORGE CRABBE. Fcap. 8vo. 4s. LIFE OF SIR SAMUEL ROMILLY. 2 vols. Fcap. 8vo. 12s. LIVES OF JOHN BUNYAN & OLIVER CROMWELL. By Robert Southey. Post 8vo. 2s. 6d. LIFE OF SIR FRANCIS DRAKE. By John Barrow. Post 8vo. 2s. 6d. JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2016 \ https://archive.org/details/handbookforlondo02cunn HANDBOOK FOR LONDON Past anti present. By PETER CUNNINGHAM. “ Vertue had taken much pains to ascertain the ancient extent of London, and the site of its several larger edifices at various periods. Among his papers I find many traces relating to this matter. Such a subject, extended by historic illustrations, would be very amusing. Les Anecdotes des 'Rues de Paris is a pattern for a work of this kind.” — Horace Walpole, ( Anec . of Painting, ed. Baliaway, v. 19). “ There is a French book, called Anecdotes des Rues de Paris. I had begun a similar work, * Anecdotes of the Streets of London.’ I intended, in imitation of the French original, to have pointed out the streets and houses where any remarkable incident had happened; but I found the labour would be too great, in collecting materials from various streets, and I abandoned the design, after having written about ten or twelve pages .’’—Horace Walpole, (Walpoliana, i. 58). IN TWO VOLUMES.— VOL. II. T. ZD. LONDON : JOHN MURRAY, ALBEMARLE STREET. 1849. LONDON : BRADBURY AND EVANS, PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS. I INNER TEMPLE. 409 JDOL LANE, Tower Street, or as it is sometimes written, Idle Lane. India Board. [ See Board of Control.] India House. [ See East India House.] Infant Orphan Asylum, Wanstead. Office, Great Winchester- street, City. Instituted 1827, and open to candidates from all parts of the empire. Annual subscription, entitling the donor to one vote at each election, 10s. 6^. ; to two votes, 1 1. Is. Life subscription, entitling to the same privilege, 51. 5s. ; to two votes, 10 U 10s. The first stone of the present asylum (in the Tudor style of architecture, Scott and Moffatt, architects) was laid by Prince Albert, July 24th, 1841. The asylum, in- cluding a chapel, has room for 400 children. Orphans are boarded, clothed, nursed, and educated here from the veriest infancy till the age of seven. Half-yearly elections in April and October. Ink Horn Court, Petticoat Lane. [See Strype’s Court.] “ A pretty open space, with indifferent inhabitants . . . This part of the Lane [Petticoat Lane], coming out at the Bars, is not over well inha- bited ; and those of most account are Horners, who prepare Horns for the petty manufactures ; as for those that make Lantlioms, Inkhorns, Giggs, Spoons, small dishes, and other things of Horn.” — Strype , B. ii., p. 28. In Ellis’s Letters of Eminent Literary Men, (p. 180), is a letter from Strype, addressed — “ These for his honoured Mother Mrs. Hester Stryp widow, dwelling in Petticoat Lane, right over against the Five Ink-Horns, without Bishops-Gate in London.” Inner Temple Gate, Fleet Street, was erected in the 5th of King James I. The gate-house above it preserves the feathers of Henry, Prince of Wales, eldest son of James I., (d. 1612). It is now a hairdresser’s, and is thus erroneously inscribed — “ Formerly the Palace of Henry VIII. and Cardinal Wolsey.” Inner Temple. An Inn of Court so called, with three Inns of Chancery attached — Clifford’ s Inn, Clement’ s Inn, and Lyon’s Inn. The Temple was originally divided into the Inner, Middle, and Outer Temples — the Inner and Middle form the Temple at present ; the Outer included Essex House and gardens. The whole of the Inner Temple was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, the flames stopping within a very few yards of the Temple Church. VOL. u. T 410 INNER TEMPLE HALL. “ His [the Lord Mayor’s] want of skill was the less wondered at, when it was known afterwards, that some gentlemen of the Inner Temple would not endeavour to preserve the goods which were in the lodgings of absent persons, nor suffer others to do it ; * because,’ they said, e it was against the law to break up any man’s chamber.’ ” — Lord Clarendon's Life. Eminent Members. — Littleton, (pleader in 1481), Sir Edward Coke, Sir Christopher Hatton, Lord Buckhurst, (Lord High Treasurer), Selden, Heneage Finch, Judge Jefferies, Sir William Follett, Francis Beaumont, (Beaumont and Fletcher), William Browne, (author of Britannia’s Pastorals), William Cowper, (author of The Task). Inner Temple Hall. A poor building, sadly disfigured by Sir Robert Smirke. When Sir Heneage Finch was reader of the XXXl . Society of the Inner Temple, King Charles II. dined with him in the Great Hall of the Inner Temple, an honour, it is said, never before granted by a King in this country. “ The last revel in any of the Inns of Court was in the Inner Temple, held in honour of Mr. Talbot, when he took leave of that house, of which he was a bencher, on having the Great Seal delivered to him. “ A friend, who was present during the whole entertainment, obliged me with the following account, which, with some circumstances supplied by another gentleman then likewise present, seemed worth adding here, by way of com- parison with those in former times, and as it may probably be the last of the kind : — “ £ On the 2nd of February, 1733, the Lord Chancellor came into the Inner Temple Hall about two of the clock, preceded by the Master of the Revels (Mr. Wollaston), and followed by the Master of the Temple (Dr. Sherlock), then Bishop of Bangor, and by the Judges and Serjeants who had been mem- bers of that house. There was a very elegant dinner provided for them and the Lord Chancellor’s officers ; but the Barristers and Students of the house had no other dinner got for them than what is usual on all Grand Days ; but each mess had a flask of claret, besides the common allowance of port and sack. Fourteen students waited on the Bench Table, among whom was Mr. Talbot, the Lord Chancellor’s eldest son ; and by their means any sort of provision was easily obtained from the upper table by those at the rest. A large gallery was built over the screen, and was filled with ladies, who came, for the most part, a considerable time before the dinner began ; and the music was placed in the little gallery, at the upper end of the Hall, and played all dinner time. “‘As soon as dinner was ended the play began, which was “Love for Love,” with the farce of the “ Devil to Pay.” The actors who performed in them all came from the Haymarket, in chairs, ready dressed ; and, as it was said, refused any gratuity for the trouble, looking upon the honour of distinguishing themselves on this occasion as sufficient. “ ‘ After the play the Lord Chancellor, the Master of the Temple, the Judges and Benchers, retired into their Parliament-chamber, and in about half an hour afterwards came into the Hall again, and a large ring was formed round the fire-place (but no fire nor embers were on it) ; then the Master of the Revels, who went first, took the Lord Chancellor by the right hand, and he with his left took Mr. J [ustice] Page, who, joined to the other Judges, Serjeants, and Benchers present, danced, or rather walked, round about the coal fire, according to the old ceremony, three times, during which they were aided in the figure of the dance by Mr. George Cooke, the Prothonotary, then INNER TEMPLE LANE. 411 upwards of GO ; and all the time of the dance the ancient song , accompanied with music, was sung by one Tony Aston [an actor], dressed in a bar gown, whose father had been formerly Master of the Plea Office in the King’s Bench. “ 4 When this was over, the ladies came down from the gallery, went into the Parliament-chamber, and stayed about a quarter of an hour, while the Hall was putting in order ; then they went into the Hall and danced a few minutes ; country dances began about ten, and at twelve a very fine collation was provided for the whole company : from which they returned to dancing, which they continued as long as they pleased ; and the whole day’s entertain- ment was generally thought to be very genteelly and liberally conducted. The Prince of Wales honoured the performance with his company part of the time : he came into the music gallery wing about the middle of the play, and went away as soon as the farce of walking round the coal fire was over.’ ” — Wynne's Eunomus, iv. 104, ed. 1774. Inner Temple Lane, Fleet Street. Eminent Inhabitants . — Dr. Johnson in No. 1, from 1760 to 1765. The house is inscribed “ Dr, Johnson’s Staircase.’’ “ His library at this time was contained in two garrets over his chambers, where Lintot, son of the celebrated bookseller of that name, had formerly his warehouse.”-^_Boswe^, by Crolcer , i. 449. u A few days afterwards I called on Davies, and asked him if he thought I might take the liberty of waiting on Mr. Johnson at his chambers in the Temple, He said I certainly might, and that Mr. Johnson would take it as a compliment. His chambers were on the first floor of No. 1, Inner Temple Lane, and I entered them with an impression given me by the Rev. Dr. Blair of Edinburgh, who described his having 4 found the giant in his den.’ He received me very courteously ; but, it must be confessed, that his apartment and furniture, and morning dress, w r ere sufficiently uncouth. His brown suit of clothes looked very rusty ; he had on a little old shrivelled unpowdered wig, which was too small for his head ; his shirt neck and knees of his breeches were loose ; his black worsted stockings ill drawn up ; and he had a pair of unbuckled shoes by way of slippers. But all these slovenly particulars were forgotten the moment that he began to talk.” — Boswell , by Crolcer , i. 405. 44 When Madam de Boufflers was first in England (said Beauclerk), she was desirous to see Johnson. I accordingly went with her to his chambers in the Temple , where she was entertained with his conversation for some time. When our visit was over, she and I left him, and were got into Inner Temple Lane, when all at once I heard a noise like thunder. This was occasioned by Johnson, who, it seems, upon a little recollection, had taken it into his head that he ought to have done the honours of his literary residence to a foreign lady of quality, and eager to show himself a man of gallantry, was hurrying down the staircase in violent agitation. He overtook us before we reached the Temple Gate, and breaking in between me and Madam de Boufflers, seized her hand, and conducted her to her coach. His dress was a rusty brown morning suit, a pair of old shoes by way of slippers, a little shrivelled wig sticking on the top of his head, and the sleeves of his shirt and the knees of his breeches hanging loose. A considerable crowd of people gathered round, and were not a little struck by this singular appearance.” — Bosivell, i. 428. James Boswell, the biographer of Johnson, in the chambers of the Rev. Mr. Temple, in what was once called “ Farrar’s Buildings,” 44 at the bottom of Inner Temple Lane.” “ I found t 2 412 INNS OF CHANCERY. them,” he says, “ particularly convenient for me, as they were so near Dr. Johnson’s.” * — Charles Lamb in No. 4. “ I have heen turned out of my chambers in the Temple by a landlord who wanted them for himself, hut I have got others at No. 4, Inner Temple Lane, far more commodious and roomy. I have two rooms on the third floor, and five rooms above, with an inner staircase to myself, and all new painted, &c., for 30Z a-year. The rooms are delicious, and the best look backwards into Hare Court, where there is a pump always going ; just now it is dry. Hare Court’s trees come in at the window, so that it ’s like living in a garden.” — Lamb to Coleridge, {Final Memorials, i. 171). Barometers were first sold in London by Jones, a clock-maker in Inner Temple-lane. “ Because the instruments were rare, and confined to the cabinets of the virtuosi ; and one was not to be had but by means of some of them. There- fore his lordship [Lord Keeper Guildford] thought fit to put some ordinary tradesmen upon making and selling them in their shops ; and, accordingly, he sent for Jones the clockmaker, in the Inner Temple Lane, and having shown him the fabric, and given him proper cautions in the erecting of them, recom- mended the setting them forth for sale in his shop ; and, it being a new thing, he would certainly find customers. He did so, and was the first person that exposed the instrument to sale publicly in London.” — North's Lives of the Norths, ii. 203, 8vo, ed. 1826. Innholders’ Hall is in College Street, College Hill, formerly Elbow-lane. Inns of Chancery. Inns, nine in number, attacked to the four Inns of Court. To the Inner Temple belong Clifford's Inn , Clement's Inn, and Lyon's Inn ; to the Middle Temple , New Inn and Strand Inn ; to Lincolns Inn, FurnivaVs Inn and Thames Inn; and to Gray's Inn, Staple's Inn and Barnard's Inn. Strand Inn was taken down by the Protector Somerset, and part of Somerset House erected on its site. The others remain. Inns of Court (The), “ the noblest nurseries of Humanity and Liberty in the kingdom,” f are four in number — Inner Temple , Middle Temple, Lincoln s Inn, and Gray's Inn. The question of precedency has never been settled, nor is it of much consequence, for each Inn is an independent body. They are called Inns of Court, from being anciently held in the “Aula Regia,” or Court of the King’s Palace. Their government is vested in “ Benchers,” consisting of the most successful and distin- guished members of the English Bar — a numerous body, “com- posed of above 3080 Barristers, exclusive of the twenty-eight Sergeants-at-Law.” J The number is still enlarging. The increase from 1833 to 1844 was from 1130 to 2484. § Rules * Boswell, i. 450. Ben Jonson dedicates his Every Man Out of his Humour, “ To the Noblest Nurseries of Humanity and Liberty in the Kingdom, the Inns of Court." £ Times, May 12th, 1846. § Warren, p. 56. INNS OF COURT. 413 generally adopted hy the four Societies . — Before any person can be admitted a member, he must furnish a statement in writing, describing his age, residence, and condition in life, and com- prising a certificate of his respectability and fitness, signed by himself, and a bencher of the society, or two barristers. The Middle Temple requires the signatures of two barristers of that Inn, and of a bencher ; but in each of the three other Inns, the signatures of barristers of any of the four Inns will suffice. No person is admitted without the approbation of a bencher, or of the benchers in council assembled. At Lincoln s Inn no person can be admitted a student, or called to the bar, who has ever been a paid clerk to a barrister, conveyancer, special pleader, or equity draftsman. The rule observed in the four Courts was so strict at one time, that, as Gerard Leigh tells us, “ gentlemen of three descents only were admitted.” This rule was observed as late as the reign of Charles I. As soon as a person has been admitted a student, he is allowed free access to the library of the Inn to which he belongs, and is also entitled to a seat in the Temple Church , or chapel of his Inn, paying only some trifling sum annually by way of preachers’ dues. He is also entitled to have his name set down for chambers. The applicant, before he can enter into “ Commons,” must sign a bond with sureties conditioned to pay the dues. A student, previous to keeping any of his terms, must deposit with the treasurer of the society 100/., to be returned (without interest) on its depositor being called to the bar ; or in case of his death, to his personal representative. But this deposit is not required on the part of persons who shall produce a certificate of having kept two years’ terms at the Universities of Oxford, Cambridge, or Dublin, or of his being a member of the Faculty of Advo- cates in Scotland. The Middle Temple includes the Universities of Durham and London. At the Inner Temple , the candidate for admission, who has not taken the degree of B.A., or passed an examination at the Universities of Oxford, Cambridge, or London, is required to pass an examination by a barrister, appointed by the Bench for that purpose, in the Greek and Latin languages, and history or literature in general. No person in priest’s or deacon’s orders can be called to the bar. In the Inner Temple an attorney must have ceased to be on the rolls, and an articled clerk to be in articles, for three years before he can be called to the bar. At Gray s Inn the period is only two years. Before a gentleman can be called to the bar, he is required by the regulations of all the Inns to be of three years’ standing, and to have kept “ commons ” for twelve terms by dining in the Hall at least three times in each term. In the Middle Temple a three 414 INNS OF COURT. years’ standing, and twelve commons kept, suffice to entitle a gentleman to be called to the bar, provided he is above twenty- three years of age. No person can be called to the bar at any of the Inns of Court before he is twenty-one years of age, and a standing of five years is understood to be required of every member before being called. The members of the several Universities, oodi. I 428 JAMES’S (ST.) PALACE. of the river of Thames, near to this church, garlick was usually sold.” * There is a figure of St. James over the clock. The living is in the gift of the Bishop of London. James’s (St.) Market, Jermyn Street, St. James’s. “ A large place with a commodious Market-House in the midst, filled with Butchers’ Shambles ; besides the Stalls in the Market-Place for Country Butchers, Higglers, and the like ; being a Market now [1720] grown to great account, and much resorted unto, as being well served with good provisions.” — Strype , B. vi., p. 83. “ 1 April, 1666. Up and down my Lord St. Albans his new building and market-house, looking to and again into every place building.” — Pepys. “ Would’st thou with mighty beef augment thy meal, Seek Leadenhall ; St. James’s sends thee veal.” — Gay , Trivia. Here, in a room over the market-house, preached Richard Baxter, the celebrated Nonconformist. On the occasion of his first sermon the main beam of the building cracked beneath the weight of the congregation. Here, behind the bar of the Mitre Tavern, kept at that time by Mrs. Voss, the aunt of “Miss Nanny,” Farquhar, the dramatist, found Mrs. Oldfield, then a girl of sixteen, rehearsing the Scornful Lady of Beaumont and Fletcher. Here, in Market-street, lived George III.’s fair Quakeress, Han- nah Lightfoot. One of Sheridan’s romantic bets for 500 guineas is dated from the “ One Tun, St. James’s Market, May 26th, 1808. f The market is composed at present of little more than a few tripe-shops and greengrocers’ stalls. James’s (St.) Palace. An irregular brick building, the only London palace of our Sovereigns from the period of the fire at Whitehall in the reign of William III. to the occupation of Buckingham Palace by her present Majesty. It was first made a manor by Henry VIII., and was previously an hospital of St. James, founded “for fourteen sisters, maidens that were lep- rous.” When Henry altered or rebuilt it, (it is uncertain which), he annexed the present Park, closed it about with a wall of brick, and thus connected the manor of St. James’s with the manor or palace of Whitehall Little remains of the old palace ; nothing, I believe, but the old dingy patched-up brick gateway towards St. James' s-street, the Chapel Royal (see it), and the initials H. A. (Henry and Anne Boleyn) in the chimney- piece of the old Presence Chamber. A detached range of library, on the site of the garden of Stafford Bouse and facing the Green Park, was commenced by Caroline, queen of George II., and finished Oct. 29th, 1737 ; and the frontage towards Stable-yard * Stow, p. 93. f Moore’s Life of Sheridan, ii. 355. X Stow, p. 168. JAMES’S (ST.) PALACE. 429 (facing Cleveland-row) was built for Frederick, Prince of Wales, upon his marriage, on the site of the suttling-houses belonging to the Guards.* A fire, on the 21st of January, 1809, in the Duke of Cambridge’s lodgings, destroyed much of the eastern part of the building. The Queen still holds her drawing-rooms in this Palace. Associations . — Mary I. died here. Henry, Prince of Wales, died here. Charles II. was born here May 29th, 1630. Here Charles I. took leave of his children the day before his execution ; and here he passed his last night, walking the next morning “ from St. James’s through the Park, guarded with a regiment of foot and partizans,” f to the scaffold before Whitehall. Monk took up his quarters in “ St. James’s House,” while bis plans for the Restoration were as yet undecided. J James II. ’s son, by Mary of Modena, the old Pretender, was born here. A contemporary plan of the Palace is dotted with lines, to show the way in which the child was said to have been conveyed in the warming- pan to her Majesty’s bed in the great bed-chamber. Queen Anne (then the Princess Anne) describes St. James’s Palace 44 as much the properest place to act such a cheat in.” § The Duchess of Kendal, (Mademoiselle Schulemberg), the German mistress of King George I., and Miss Brett, the English mistress of the same King, had apartments in St. James’s Palace. The Duchess of Kendal’s apartments were 44 on the ground-floor, towards the garden. ’ ’ Three of the King’s grand-daughters were lodged in the Palace at the same time ; and Anne, the eldest, a woman of a most imperious and ambitious nature, soon came to words with the English mistress of her grandfather. When the King set out for Hanover, Miss Brett, it appears, ordered a door to be broken out of her apartment into the Palace garden. The Princess Anne, offended at her freedom, and not choosing such a companion in her walks, ordered the door to be walled up again. Miss Brett as imperiously reversed that command ; and while bricks and words were bandied about in this way, the King died suddenly, and the empire of the imperious mistress was at an end. Mrs. Howard, (afterwards Countess of Suffolk), the mistress of King George II., had apartments here, the same formerly occupied by the Duchess of Kendal. The King was not allowed to retain undisturbed possession of his mistress. Mr. Howard went one night into the quadrangle of St. James’s, and before the guards and other audience vocife- rously demanded his wife to be restored to him. He was, however, soon thrust out, and just as soon soothed, — selling (as * London Daily Post of Sept. 24th, 1735. + Wliitelocke, p. 374. J Whitelocke, p. 696. § Dalrym. ii. 303 & 308 430 JAMES’S (ST.) PARK. Walpole had heard) his noisy honour and the possession of his wife for a pension of 1200 l. a-year. “ The Queen had an obscure window at St. James, that looked into a dark passage, lighted only by a single lamp at night, which looked upon Mrs. Howard’s apartment. Lord Chesterfield, one Twelfth night, at Court, had won so large a sum of money, that he thought it imprudent to carry it home in the dark, and deposited it with the mistress. Thence the Queen inferred great intimacy, and thenceforwards Lord Chesterfield could obtain no favour from Court ; and finding himself desperate went into opposition.” — Horace Walpole's Reminiscences. Here Miss Vane, one of the Maids of Honour, lived with Fre- derick, Prince of Wales. “ Yet Yane could tell what ills from beauty spring^.” Here, in 1737, died Caroline, Queen of George II. ; and here George IV. was born. In the dingy brick house on the west side of the Ambassadors’ Court, or west quadrangle, Marshal Blucher was lodged in 1814. He would frequently sit at the drawing-room windows and smoke and bow to people, pleased with the notice that was taken of him. A house in the Stable-yard (pulled down to erect Stafford House) was the last London residence of Charles James Fox. In the Great Council Chamber, before the King and Queen, the odes of the Poets Laureate were performed and sung. In James II. ’s reign Yerrio, the painter, was keeper of the gardens belonging to the Palace.* [ See St. James’s Chapel ; Friary.] A ^ James’s (St.) Park. A Park of eighty-seven acres, (shaped like a boy’s kite), originally appertaining to the Palace of ' r k St. James’s; first formed and walled in by Henry VIII.; ? acre* re-planted and beautified by Charles II. ; and finally arranged by King George IV., much as we now see it, in the years 1826, 1827, and 1828. What we shall call the head of the kite is bordered by three of the principal public offices : the Horse Guards in the centre, the Admiralty on its right, and the Treasury on its left. The tail of the kite is occupied by Buckingham Balace ; its north side by the Green Park, Stafford House, St. James's Palace, Marlborough House , Carlton-House- terrace, and Carlton Ride ; and its right or south side by Queen-square , and the Wellington Barracks for part of the Household Troops. The gravelled space in front of the Horse Guards is called the Parade, and formed a part of the Tilt Yard of Whitehall : the north side is called the Mall, and the south the Birdcage-walk. Milton lived in a house in Petty * Newspapers of 1688. JAMES’S (ST.) PARK. 431 France, with a garden reaching into the Birdcage-walk ; Nell Gwynne in Pall Mall , with a garden with a mount at the end, overlooking the Mall ; and Lord Chancellor Jefferies, in the large house by Storey's Gate, with a flight of stone steps into the Park. [See Duke Street.] This celebrated Park, with its broad gravel walks and winding sheet of water, was, till the time of Charles II., what we should now call a Green Park, with trees and shrubs irregularly planted, and a number of little ponds. The back ground of Hollar’s full-length figure of Summer, engraved in 1644, affords a pleasant glimpse of its landscape beauties. Charles II. threw the several ponds (j Rosamond's Pond excepted) into one artificial canal, built a decoy for ducks, a small ring-fence for deer, planted trees in even ranks, and introduced broad gravel walks in place of narrow and winding footpaths. Well might Dr. King exclaim — “ The fate of things is always in the dark, What Cavalier would know St. James’s Park ?” Charles I., attended by Bishop Juxon and a regiment of foot, (part before and part behind him),* walked, January 30th, 1648-9, through this Park from St. James's Palace to the scaffold at Whitehall. He is said on his way to have pointed out a tree near Spring Gardens, as planted by his brother Prince Henry. Plere Cromwell took Whitelocke aside and sounded the Memorialist on the subject of a King Oliver. “ 7 Nov. 1652. It was about this time in a fair Evening, I being walking in St. James’s Park, to refresh myself after business of toil and for a little exercise, that the Lord General Cromwell meeting with me, saluted me with more than ordinary courtesy, and desired me to walk aside with him, that we might have some private discourse together. I waited on him, and he began the discourse betwixt us, which was to this effect Cromwell. What if a Man should take upon him to be King? Whitelocke. I think that remedy would be worse than the disease.” — Whitelocke. The great storm in which Cromwell died destroyed many of the trees in St. James’s Park, and was long remembered. “ On Tuesday night [Feb. 7th, 1698-9] we had a violent wind which blew down three of my chimneys, and dismantled all one side of my house by throwing down the tiles. The great trees in St. James’s Park are many of them torn up from the roots, as they were before Oliver Cromwell’s death and the late Queen’s.” — Dryden to Mrs. Steward. The changes made at the Restoration will be best understood by a series of short extracts from the writers who refer to them. The person employed by the King was, it is said, Le ? I the architect of the groves and grottos at Versailles, (d. 1700), hut there is reason to believe that Dr. Morison, formerly engaged * Lord Leicester’s Journal, by Blencowe, p. 59. 432 JAMES’S (ST.) PARK. in laying out the grounds of the Duke of Orleans,* was the King’s chief adviser. “ For future shade, young trees upon the hanks Of the new stream appear in even ranks : The voice of Orpheus, or Amphion’s hand, In better order could not make them stand. ***** Methiuks I see the love that shall he made. The lovers walking in that am’rous shade : The Gallants dancing by the river side ; They bathe in summer, and in winter slide. Methinks I hear the musick in the boats, And the loud Echo which returns the Notes : While over-head a flock of new-sprung fowl Hangs in the air, and does the sun controul, Dark’ning the sky : they hover o’er and shroud The wanton sailers with a feather’d cloud. Beneath, a shole of silver fishes glides, And plays about the gilded barges’ sides : The Ladies, angling in the crystal lake, Feast on the waters with the prey they take : At once victorious with their lines and eyes, They make the fishes and the men their prize. ***** All that can, living, feed the greedy eye, Or dead, the palate, here you may descry : The choicest things that furnish’d Noah’s ark, Or Peter’s sheet, inhabiting this Park : All with a border of rich fruit-trees crown’d, Whose lofty branches hide the lofty mound. Such various ways the spacious valleys lead, My doubtful Muse knows not what path to tread. Yonder, the harvest of cold months laid up,*t* Gives a fresh coolness to the royal cup : There ice, like chrystal firm, and never lost, Tempers hot July with December’s frost; ***** Here, a well-polish ’d Mall gives us the joy, To see our Prince his matchless force employ.” — Waller, A Poem on St James’s Park, as lately improved by His Majesty, fol. 1661. “16 Sept. 1660. To the Park, where I saw how far they had proceeded in the Pell Mell, and in making a river through the Park, which I had never seen before since it was begun.” — Pepys. “11 Oct. 1660. To walk in St. James’s Park, where we observed the several engines at work to draw up water, with which sight I was very much pleased.” — Pepys. “22 Oct. 1660. About 300 men are every day employed in his majesty’s * Dr. Worthington’s Correspondence, printed by the Chetham Society. + “ 1660, Oct. 22. A Snow House and an Ice House made in St. James’s Park, as the mode is in some parts in France and Italy and other hot countries, for to cool wines and other drinks for the summer season.” — Rugge, Addit, MS. Brit. Mus. 10,116. JAMES’S (ST.) PARK. 433 worke in making the River in St. James’s Park and repairing Whitehall.” — Rugge, Addit. MS. in Brit. Mus. 10,1 16. “18 Aug. 1661. To walk in St. James’s Park, and saw a great variety of fowle which I never saw before.” — Pepys. “ 1661, Sept. This month the road that was formerly used for all coaches and carts and. horses from Charing Cross to St. James’s by St. James’s Park Wall and the backside of Pall Mall, is now altered, by reason a new Pall Mall is made for the use of his Majesty in St. James’s Park by the Wall, and the dust from coaches was very troublesome to the players at Mall. The new road was railed on both sides five foot distance the whole field length, also in the Park at the hither end of the new River cut there (the length of the Park) a brass statue [the Gladiator ?],* set up upon a mount of stone, and the Park made even level to the Bridge taken down, and the great ditches filled up with the earth that was digged down : the rising ground and the trees cut down, and the roots taken away, and grass seed sowed to make pleasant walk- ing, and trees planted in walks.” — Rugge , Addit. MS. Brit. Mus. 10,116. “ 27 July, 1662. I to walke in the Parke, which is now every day more and more pleasant by the new works upon it.” — Pepys. “ 1 Dec. 1662. Over the Parke, where I first in my life, it being a great frost, did see people sliding with their skeates, which is a very pretty art.” — Pepys. “ 1 Dec. 1662. Having seene the strange and wonderful dexterity of the sliders on the new Canal in St. James’s Park, performed before their Ma ties by divers gentlemen and others with Scheets after the manner of the Hollanders, with what swiftness they pass, how suddainly they stop in full career upon the ice, I went home.” — Evelyn. “ 15 Dec. 1662. To the Duke [of York], and followed him into the Parke, where, though the ice was broken and dangerous, yet he would go slide upon his scates, which I did not like, hut he slides very well.” — Pepys. “11 Aug. 1664. This day, for a wager before the King, my Lords of Castlehaven and Arran, a son of my Lord of Ormond’s, they two alone did run down and kill a stout buck in St. James’s Park.” — Pepys. “ Till this day we have had no considerable frost, hut last night it froze so very hard, that this morning the boys began to slide upon the Canal in the Park.” — The Duke of York to the Prince of Orange , Dec. Ath, 1683. “ 9 Feh. 1664-5. I went to St. James’s Park, where I saw various animals. .... The Parke was at this time stored with numerous flocks of severall sorts of ordinary and extraordinary wild fowle, breeding about the Decoy, * The Gladiator, a caste in bronze, made by Le Soeur, removed by Queen Anne to Hampton Court, (Dodsley’s Environs, iii. 741), and by George IY. to the private grounds of Windsor Castle, where it now is. “ Here [in the garden at St. James’s,] are also half a dozen brasse statues, rare ones, cast by Hubert le Sueur, his Majestie’s servant, now dwelling in Saint Bar- tholomew’s, London, the most industrious and excellent statuary in all materials that ever this country enjoyed. The best of them is the Gladiator, molded from that in Cardinal Borgheso’s villa, by the procurement and industry of ingenious Master Gage.” — Peacham's Compleat Gentleman ,p. 108, 4to, 1661. “ He lays about him like the Gladiator in the Park.” — Nat. Lee } Dedication to Princess of Cleve. See also Ned Ward’s London Spy. It stood in the Parade facing the Horse Guards. VOL. II. u 434 JAMES’S (ST.) PARK. which for being neere so greate a Citty, and among such a concourse of souldiers and people, is a singular and diverting thing. There were also deere of severall countries, — white ; spotted like leopards ; antelopes ; an elk ; red deere , roebucks ; staggs ; Guinea goates ; Arabian sheepe, &c. There were withy-potts or nests for the wild fowle to lay their eggs in, a little above y e surface of y e water.” — Evelyn. u .19 Feb. 1666-7. In the afternoone I saw a wrestling match for £1000 in St. James’s Park before his Ma% a world of lords and other spectators, ’twixt the Western and Northern men, Mr. Secretary Morice and Lo. Gerard being the judges. The Western men won. Many greate sums were betted.” — Evelyn . “6 April, 1668. This day in the afternoon stepping with the Duke of York into St. James’s Park, it rained ; and I was forced to lend the Duke of York my cloak, which he wore through the Park.” — Pepys. “ Lost in St. James’s Park, November 15, 1671, about eight of the clock at night, a little Spaniel Dog of his Royal Highness ; he will answer to the name Towser, he is liver colour’d and white spotted, his legs speckled with liver colour and white, with long hair growing upon his hind legs, long ears, and his under lip a little hanging ; if any can give notice of him they shall have five pounds for their pains.” — London Gazette , Nov. 1 6th to Nov. 2 0th } 1671, No. 627. “ Lost four or five days since in St. James’s Park, a Dogg of his Majestie’s ; full of blew spots, with a white cross on his forehead, and about the bigness of a Tumbler. The persons who shall have found or taken up the said Dogg are to give notice thereof to the porters of Whitehall.” — London Gazette , No. 627. (t Charles R. — The Workes and Services comprised in this Account, were done by our direction, 30 May, 1671. To Edward Dudley, Robert Beard, and others, for 670 Load of Gravell for y e raiseing of the Longe Walke, and severall causeyw r ayes in St. James’s Parke, in the year 1663, at the rate of 12 d. a load ........ £33 To Edward Maybanke and Thomas Greene for bringing in 1023 Load of Gravell at 8 d. the load . . . . .34 To severall persons for carrying Rubbish and Gravell into the said Parke, and spreading it . . . . .10 To Phillip Moore, Gardener, for directing the levelling the ground of the Pond by the Horse-ground and the ground by the Canall side ........ 15 To Edward Maybanke and Tho. Greene for digging the Decoy and earrrying out the earth and levelling the ground about the said Decoy ......... 128 To Edward Storey * for wyer and other things used about the Decoy, and for 100 Baskets for the Ducks .... 8 To Oliver Honey for paving the feeding place for the Ducks and breaking the ground ....... 1 To S r George Waterman for several Netts for the Decoy . 15 To James Rimes for plants, sets and 400 Bolts of Reeds for the use of the Decoy . . . . . . . .15 To Edward Storey for money paid to sundry workmen for setting the Reeds and Polles round the Decoy and wyering it 9 10 0 2 0 15 0 15 0 2 11 £ 9 0 10 0 3 0 11 8 10 0 From this Edward Storey, Storey's Gate derives its name. JAMES’S (ST.) PARK. 435 To Sydrach Hilcusfor y e contriveing of the Decoy in St. James’ Parke . . . . . . . . . . 30 0 0 For lookeing to the Plantacon and pruneing the Trees in St. James’ Parke . . . . . . . .7307 For Oatmeal, Tares, Hempseed* and other corn for the Birdes and Fowles from September 1660 to 24th June 1670. . .246 18 0 To William Thawsell for fish for the Cormorant the 12th of March 1661. . . . . . . . .1130 To John Scott for Carpenters Worke done in Wharfing and making Bridges in the Island and Borders and for Boards used about the Decoy and other Work . . . . 45 15 4” — From the original Account signed by Charles II. “ Even his [Charles II.’s] indolent amusement of playing with his dogs, and feeding his ducks in St. James’s Park (which I have seen him do) made the common people adore him, and consequently overlook in him, what in a prince of a different temper they might have been out of humour at.” — Colley Cibber's Apology, p. 26, 8vo, 1740. I may mention that one or two of the oaks planted in the Park and watered by the King himself were acorns from the royal oak at Boscobel. St. Evremont, a French Epicurean wit, was keeper of the ducks in St. James’s Park, in the reign of Charles II. An insane young man, of the name of Oxford, fired a pistol at her Majesty in St. James’s Park, on the 10th of June, 1840. He was committed to Bethlehem Hospital, where others for lighter offences, and in this very Park too, had been sent in the reign of Charles II. The following letters are entered in the Letter Book of the Lord Steward’s Office, and are now published for the first time : — To the Governors and Masters of Bethlehem. Board of Green Cloth, August 16, 1677. Gentlemen, Whereas Deborah Lyddal doth frequently intrude herselfe into St. James’ Park where she hath committed severall disorders and particularly took a stone offering to throw it at the Queen and upon examination before us, by her whole carriage and deportment appears to be a woman distracted and void of right understanding ; we have thought fit herewith to send the said Lyddall to you to the end and intent that shee may he received and taken into the Hospital of Bethlehem, there to be secured and treated in such * “I have heard that when Berenger was writing his ‘ History of Horseman- ship ’ he made the proper enquiries every where and particularly at the King’s Mews. There he found a regular charge made every year for Hemp Seed. It was allowed that none was used, hut the charge had been regularly made since the reign of Charles II., and it was recollected that this good-natured monarch was as fond of his ducks as of his dogs, and took a pleasure in feeding these fowls in the Canal. It was therefore concluded that this new article of expense began in his time, and continued to be charged regularly, long after any such seed was used or provided .” — Note in Nichols's Tatler , vol. iii., p. 361, 8vo, 1786. u 2 436 JAMES’S (ST.) PARK. manner as persons in her condicon use to be. Thus not doubting of your compliance herein we rest, Gentlemen, Your very loving Friends, H. Prise, Ste. Fox, W. Churchill. To the Governors and Masters of the Hospital of Bethlehem. Board of Gi'een Cloth, 12 th January , 1677 [1677-8]. Gentlemen, By his Majesty’s express command we herewith send you the body of one Richard Harris who doth frequently intrude himselfe into St. James’ Parke, where he hath committed several disorders and particularly in throwing an Orange at the King, and having for a long time shewed himself to he a person distracted and voyd of right understanding. We desire that you will receive him into your Hospital of Bethlehem, there to be treated in such manner as is most fit and usual for persons in his condicon. Thus not doubt- ing of 5 r our compliance herein, We rest, Your very loving Friends, W. Maynard, Ste. Fox, W. Boreman. W. Churchill. — From the Letter Booh of the Lord Steward's Office. The following extracts will not require any illustration. I have already [Board of Green Cloth) said something on the punish- ment which followed the very serious offence of drawing a sword in the Park : — “ Blujfe. My blood rises at that fellow : I can’t stay where he is ; and I must not draw in the Park.” — Congreve , The Old Bachelor. “ Conw'ay Seymour had a rencontre on Sunday last in St. James’s Park with Captain Kirk of my Lord Oxford’s regiment. I believe both were in drink ; and calling one another beaus at a distance, they challenged, and went out of the Park to fight. Mr. Seymour received a w'ound in the neck.” — Vernon to the Duke of Shrewsbury, June 6i ih, 1699. “ ‘ This is a strange Country,’ said his Majesty [George I.]. 4 The first morning after my arrival at St. James’s, I looked out of the window, and saw a Park with walls, canal, &c., which they told me were mine. The next day, Lord Chetwynd, the ranger of my Park, sent me a fine brace of carp out of my canal ; and I was told I must give five guineas to Lord Chetwynd’s servant for bringing me my own carp out of my own canal in my own Park.’ ” — Walpole's Reminiscences. “ In one of his ballads he [the Duke of Wharton] has bantered his own want of heroism ; it was in a song he made on being seized by the guard in St. James’s Park, for singing the Jacobite air, ‘ The King shall have his own again.’ ” — Walpole's Royal and Noble Authors.* Traitorous expressions would seem to have been punished more severely JAMES’S (ST.) PARK. 437 “ Mr. Prior walks to make himself fat, and I to bring myself down ; he has generally a cough, which he only calls a cold : we often walk round the Park together.” — Swift , Journal to Stella , ii. 182. “ Queen Caroline spoke of shutting up St. James’s Park, and converting, it into a noble garden for the Palace of that name. She asked my father what it might probably cost ; who replied, “ only three Crowns .” — Walpoliana, vol. i., p. 9. “ I would recommend to our good friend Mason a voyage now and then with me round the Park. What can afford nobler hints for pastoral than the Cows and the milkwomen at your entrance from Spring-Gardens? As you advance, you have noble subjects for Comedy and Farce from one end of the Mall to the other ; not to say Satire, to which our worthy friend has a kind of propensity. As you turn to the left, you soon arrive at Rosamond's Pond , long consecrated to disastrous love and Elegiac poetry. The Bird-Cage- Walk, which you enter next, speaks its own influence, and inspires you with the gentle spirit of Madrigal and Sonnet. When we come to Duck-Island, we have a double chance for success in the Georgic or Didactic poetry, as the Governor of it, Stephen Duck, can both instruct our friend in the breed of the Wild-fowl and lend him of his genius to sing their generations.” — Wa/rburton to Bishop Hurd. Tlie principal walks in the Park were, the Green Walk, below the Mall and the Park Wall, (here Charles II. stood arid talked to Nell Gwynn ; see Pall Mall) ; the Close Walk, at the head of Rosamond' s Pond ;* and the Long Lime Walk, terminating at a knot of lofty elms. The Green Walk went by the name of Duke Humphrey’s Walk, and the Close Walk by the cant name of the Jacobite Walk. “It was yesterday the news in the Jacobite Walk in the Park that his lord- ship not only quitted but was turned out.” — Vernon Correspondence, vol. i., p. 39, [under 1696]. “ Lady Fancy ful (reading). If you have a mind to hear of your faults, instead of being praised for your virtues, take the pains to walk in the Green Walk in St. James’s with your woman an hour hence.” J — Vanbrugh, The Provoked Wife. “ The Green Walk afforded us variety of discourses from persons of both sexes. Here walked a beau bareheaded, — here a French fop with both his hands in his pockets carrying all his pleated coat before to shew his silk bi’eeches. There were a cluster of Senators talking of State affairs and the price of Corn and Cattle, and were disturbed with the noisy milk folks — when uttered in St. James’s Park than in any other place. Francis Heat was whipt in 1717, from Charing Cross to the upper end of the Haymarket, fined ten groats, and ordered a month’s imprisonment, for saying aloud in St. James’s Park, “ God save King James the Third, and send him a long and prosperous reign and the following year a soldier was whipt in the Park for drinking a health to the Duke of Ormond and Dr. Sacheverel, and for saying “ He hoped soon to wear his right master’s cloth.” * Tom Brown’s Amusements of London, p. 65, 8vo, 1700. + See in the Correspondence of De Grammont’s Earl of Chesterfield (p. 147) a letter with this singular address : “ To one who walked 4 whole nights with mee in St. Jeames Park, and yet I never knew who she was.” 438 JAMES’S (ST.) PLACE. crying — A Can of Millc, Ladies ; A Can of Red Cow’s Milk , Sir .... In our way to the Horse Guards was nothing worth our observation, unless ’twas the Bird Cage, inhabited by wild-fowl, the ducks begging charity and the blackguard hoys robbing their own bellies to relieve them.” — Amusements , Serious and Comical , by Tom Brown , 8vo, 1700. The Chinese Bridge over the Canal, erected on the occasion of the arrival of the allied sovereigns in 1814, was destroyed by fire during a grand illumination a few years afterwards. Observe . — Fronting the Horse Guards , the large howitzer, cap- tured at Cadiz in 1810. I have been informed by an officer of the Boyal Engineers (often fired upon by this very howitzer) that the heaviest shell it carried weighed about 108 lbs., and that its extreme range was 6220 yards. The same officer added, that he had seen a shell from this piece of ordnance range into Cadiz, when the whole of that splendid square, the Plaza de San Antonio, was crowded with the rank and fashion of the place, and fall most accurately in the centre of the square without injuring a single individual. The ducks in the Park belong to the Ornithological Society. In January, 1846, the collec- tion contained upwards of three hundred birds, including twenty- one species, and fifty-one distinct varieties. The person who farms the chairs in the Park pays 251. a year to the Woods and Forests for the privilege. Plis charge is a penny a chair each person. The Park was first lighted with gas in 1822.* [See St. James’s Palace, Birdcage Walk, Constitution Hill, Green Park, Mall, and Pall Mall ; Mulberry Garden, Rosa- mond’s Pond, Spring Gardens, and Tilt Yard ; St. James’s Palace, Arlington House, Buckingham House ; Wallingford House ; Carlton House ; Marlborough House ; Stafford House, and Horse Guards.] James’s (St.) Place, St. James’s Street. Built circ. 1694. f The best houses look into The Green Bark. Eminent Inhabitants. — Addison. He was living here in 1710. J “ Addison’s chief companions before he married Lady Warwick (in 1716) were Steele, Budgell, Philips, Carey, Davenant, and Colonel Brett. He used to breakfast with one or other of them at his lodgings in St. James’ Place, dine at taverns with them, then to Button’s.” — Pope in Spence , ed. Sanger, p. 196. Parnell. “ I have not yet seen the dear Archdeacon, who is at his old lodgings in St. James’s Place.” — Jervas to Pope. * Plate 35 of Boydell’s Landscapes, executed in 1 75 1 , affords a good view of the Park, looking down the Canal towards Buckingham House. Of the Parade there is a clever representation by Canaletti, engraved by T. Bowles, 1753. + Rate-books of St. Martin’s. J Berkeley’s Literary Relics, p. 384. JAMES’S (ST.) PLACE. 439 Mr. Secretary Craggs.* — William Cleland, tlie friend of Pope. “ Come as far up St. James’ Place as you can still keeping on the right side, turn up at the end which lands you at a little court, of which the middle door is that of my house.” — Cleland to Dr. Birch , Nov. 16 th , 1739. White Kennet, Bishop of Peterborough, author of Rennet’s Register, pendix to his edition of Stow. The exactions of the keeper of the box and his underlings were oppressive in the extreme. The prisoners were compelled to pay for everything hut water. The bequests, and there were many, and some of importance, * Lud and his sons have been engraved by J. T. Smith Of the Elizabethan Gate there is a view in Strype. LUDGATE HILL. 507 were not worth one farthing to the unhappy inmates. The master of the box and his myrmidons swallowed all, even the very alms acquired by the poor criers at the gate. The broken meat from the Lord Mayor’s table, the contents of a basket from the clerk of the market, or rarer still, a present of unsized fish from the water-bailiff, were all that the poor debtors had to look for. The picture is curious, and will well repay perusal. Before “ Lud’s fam’d gates ”* terminated the rebellious march of Sir Thomas Wyat, in the reign of bloody Mary. “ Some of Wyat’s men, some say it was Wyat himself, came even to Ludgate, and knocked, calling to come in, saying there was Wyat, whom the Queen had granted to have their requests. But the Lord William Howard stood at the gate and said, 4 Avaunt, traitor, thou shalt not come in here.’ Wyat stayd and rested him a while upon a stall over against the Bell Savage gate, and at the last, seeing he could not get into the City, and being deceived of the aid he hoped for, returned hack again towards Charing Cross.” — Stow’s Annales. When Ludgate was taken down the prisoners were removed to the London Workhouse in Bishopsgate-street . Mr. J. P. Collier pos- sesses a printed handbill of the year 1664, called “ The Humble Petition of the Poor distressed prisoners in Ludgate , being above an hundred and fourscore poor persons in number, against the time of the Birth of our Blessed Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ.” . . . “ We most humbly beseech you,” says the hand- bill, “ (even for God’s cause) to relieve us with your charitable benevolence, and to put into this bearer’s Boxe, the same being sealed with the house Seale as it is figured upon this petition.” This is illustrative of No. 49 of Tempest’s Cries, entitled “ Remember the Poor Prisoners ” — a male figure with an alms- basket at his back, and a sealed money-box in his hand.f Ludgate Hill, and Ludgate Street. Portions of the main artery of London leading from Fleet-street to St. Paul’s. The hill ex- tends from Fleet-street to the site of old Ludgate Without, and the street from Ludgate Within to St. Paul’s Churchyard. The old name for the street was Bowyer-row. [See Ludgate.] “ Betwixt the south end of Ave Mary Lane and the north end of Creed Lane is Bowyer Row, of bowyers dwelling there, now worn out by mercers and others.” — Stow, p. 127. The church is called St. Martin s, Ludgate. Observe. — Bell * Pope. t* William Heminge, the son of Shakspeare’s “ fellow,” wrote a poem on his imprisonment in Ludgate, preserved in the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford. (Catalogue Col. 41). In the same Museum (Column 50 of Cat.) is “ A Carracter of Ludgate,” a whimsical description of the prison. 508 LUKE’S (ST.), CHELSEA. Savage Inn on the north side ; and on the south side, in St. Martin’s-court, one of the four remaining fragments of London Wail . At the top of Ludgate-hill, and in front of the west end of old St. Paul's , Digby, It. Winter, Grant and Bates, were executed, Jan. 30th, 1606, for their participation in the Gunpowder Plot. On the south side is Everington’s magni- ficent shawl shop, and on the north side, was Rundle and Bridges’, the great jewellers. Luke’s (St.), Chelsea, (Chelsea Old Church). A very inte- resting edifice, built of red-brick and stone, situated near the river, consisting of a nave, chancel and side aisles. The chancel is said to have been rebuilt early in the sixteenth century. The chapel at the east end of the south aisle was added by Sir Thomas More, about the year 1520. The tower (of brick) was built between the years 1667 and 1674. Monuments — Observe.-— On the north side of the chancel an ancient altar-tomb without any inscription, but supposed to belong to one of the family of Bray, of Eaton. A tablet of black marble on the south wall of the chancel to Sir Thomas More, (d% 1535), originally erected by himself in 1532, but being much worn,* was restored at the expence of Sir John Lawrence of Chelsea, in the reign of Charles I., and again by subscription in 1833. The place of his interment is unknown, most probably the chapel of St. Peter-in-the-Tower. His first wife (Joan) is buried here. “ After he was beheaded, his trunke was interred in Chelsey Church, neer the middle of the south wall, where was some slight monument erected, w ch being worn by time, about 1644 S r [John?] Laurence of Chelsey, (no kinne to him), at his own proper costs and chardges, erected to his memorie a handsome inscription of marble.” — Aubrey's Lives , iii. 463. The epitaph (in Latin) was written by More himself. The words “ hereticisque ” were purposely omitted when the monu- ment was restored on both occasions. There is a space left for them. Over the tomb is the crest of Sir Thomas More, namely, a Moor’s head ; and the arms of himself and his two wives. — Thomas Hungerford, on the north wall of the chancel, (d. 1581) ; small monument with kneeling figures. — Elizabeth Mayerne, (d. 1653), daughter of Sir Theodore Mayerne, physician to James I. and Charles I., and wife of Peter de Caumont, Marquis de Cugnac ; monument on south wall. — Jane Dudley, Duchess of Northumberland, (d. 1555), wife of John Dudley, Earl of Warwick and Duke of Northumberland, beheaded in 1553 for proclaiming Lady Jane Grey, and * See Weever. LUKE’S (ST.), CHELSEA. 509 mother of Queen Elizabeth’s favourite, Robert Dudley, Earl of Leicester ; (her daughter Mary was the mother of Sir Philip Sydney) ; monument at the east end of south chapel, not unlike Chaucer’s in Westminster Abbey, but sadly muti- lated. — Catherine, relict of Henry, Earl of Huntingdon, and daughter of John Dudley, Duke of Northumberland, (d. 1620) ; altar-tomb. — Sir Robert Stanley, (d. 1632), second son of William, Earl of Derby ; monument with bust. — Arthur Gorges, (d. 1668), eldest son of Sir Arthur Gorges. — Gregory, Lord Dacre, (d. 1594), and Ann, Lady Dacre, (d. 1595) ; monu- ment in south aisle. Ann, Lady Dacre, erected the alms-houses in Westminster which hear her name ; she was sister to Thomas Sackville, Baron Buckhurst and Earl of Dorset, (the poet). — Thomas Lawrence, (d. 1593), and several of his fami^, in a chapel at the end of the north aisle. “ Lawrence-street, Chelsea,” was called after this family. — Lady Jane Cheyne, (d. 1669), daughter of William Cavendish, Duke of Newcastle, and wife of Charles Cheyne, Esq., from whom Cheyne-rozo derives its name ; monument in north aisle, by Bernini, cost 5001.* She is represented lying on her right side, and leaning on a Bible. — Dr. Edward Chamberlayne, (d. 1703), author of The Present State of Great Britain, a kind of Court Calendar, very valuable in its way ; south wall of church, outside. — Sir Hans Sloane, the physician, (d. 1753) ; monument in the churchyard, an urn entwined with serpents. — Philip Miller, author of the Gardener’s Dictionary, (d. 1771) ; monument in churchyard, erected by the Linnsean and Horticultural Societies. . Eminent Persons interred in this Church , without Monuments . — Elizabeth Fletcher, (d. 1595), wife of Bishop Fletcher, and mother of John Fletcher, the poet. — Magdalen Herbert, (d. 1627), mother of George Herbert, and Lord Herbert of Cher- bury. Dr. Donne preached her funeral sermon in this church, and Izaak Walton tells us he heard him. — Thomas Shad well, (d. 1692), Poet Laureate ; the Mac Flecknoe of Dryden. His funeral sermon was preached in this church by Nicholas Brady, Nahum Tate’s associate in the Psalms.- — Abel Boyer, (d. 1729), author of a Life of Queen Anne, and the French Dictionary which bears his name. He died in a house he had built for himself in the Five Fields , Chelsea. — Henry Mossop, the actor, (d. 1775), one of the heroes of the Rosciad. — William Ken- rick, LL.D., (d. 1779).+— Sir John Fielding, (d. 1780), the magistrate, and half-brother to Fielding, the novelist. — Henry Sampson Woodfall, (d. 1805), the Printer of “ Junius.” The * Walpole, ii. 110. *j* See Goldsmith’s Retaliation. rfj- /Jfi 510 LYCEUM (THE ROYAL) THEATRE. register under Feb. 13th, 1597-8, records the baptism of “ Charles, a boy by estimacon 10 or 12 yers olde, brought by Sir Walter Rawlie, from Guiana,” and under Aug. 26th, 1633, the marriage of the father and mother of the profligate Earl of Rochester. John Larke, presented to the rectory of Chelsea in 1530, by Sir Thomas More, was executed at Tyburn in 1544, for following the example of his patron, in denying the King’s supremacy. t In a cemetery in the King’s-road , given to the parish, in 1733, by Sir Hans Sloane, Andrew Millar, the bookseller, is buried, (d. 1768). He lived in the Strand, over against Catherine-street, and gave to the public, Thomson’s Seasons, Collins’s Odes, Fielding’s Tom Jones, Burn’s Justice of the Peace, Hume’s History of England. His grave is marked by an obelisk in the centre of the ground. Luke’s (St.), Chelsea, (Chelsea New Church ; James Savage, architect). First stone laid, Oct. 12th, 1820, and church con- secrated, Oct. 18th, 1824. In the churchyard, Blanchard and Egerton, the actors, lie side by side. Luke’s (St.) Hospital for Lunatics, in Old-street-road , insti- tuted in 1751, and removed to the present hospital (built by Dance, in 1782-84. No person is knowingly received as a patient, who is in possession of means for decent support in a private asylum. Luke’s (St.), Old Street Road. A parish church, consecrated Oct. 16th, 1733, and chiefly remarkable for a very ugly spire. The parish was taken out of St. Giles’s, Cripplegate, in 1732, to meet the growing population of that part of the town. Lumley House, in Aldoate Ward. “ Next to these alms houses [in Woodroffe-lane] is the Lord Lumley’s house, built in the time of King Henry VIII., by Sir Thomas Wyat, the father, upon one plot of ground of late pertaining to the Crossed Friars.” — Stow, p. 56. Lyceum (The Royal) Theatre, or English Opera House, in the Strand, at the corner of Upper Wellington-street. Built by Mr. S. Beazley, and opened to the public July 14th, 1834. The interior decorations were made in Madame Vestris’s time, (1847), and are very beautiful. The theatre derives its name of the Lyceum from an academy or exhibition room, built in 1765, for the Society of Arts, by Mr. James Payne, the architect. It was first converted into a theatre in 1790, and into an English Opera House in 1809. The preceding theatre (also the work of Mr. Beazley) was destroyed by fire, Feb. 16th, 1830. Newcourt’s Report, i. 346. MACCLESFIELD STREET. 511 Lyon’s Inn, Newcastle Street, Strand. An Inn of Chancery, belonging to the Inner Temple. “ Lyon’s Inn was a guest inn or hostelry held at the sign of the Lyon, and purchased hy gentlemen professors and students in the law in the raigne of King Henry the Eighth, and converted to an Inn of Chancery.” — Sir George Buc, in Howes, p. 1076, ed. 1631. William Weare, murdered by Thurtell, at Grill ’s-hill, in Hert- fordshire, lived in this Inn. “ They cut his throat from ear to ear, His brains they battered in ; His name was Mr. William Weare, He dwelt in Lyon’s Inn.” — Theodore Hook. Lyon Key, Lower Thames Street. Okey, the regicide, was a chandler at this Quay.* j^ACCLESFIELD STREET, Golden Square, was so called after Charles Gerard, first Baron Gerard of Brandon, and first Earl of Macclesfield, (d. 1694). [ See Gerard Street.] Madox Street, Regent Street. Built 1721.1 Magdalen Hospital, St. George’s Fields. Instituted 1758, in- corporated 1769, for the reformation and relief of penitent prostitutes. A subscription of 20 guineas or more at one time, or of 5 guineas per annum for five successive years, is a qualifi- cation of a governor for life. A subscription of 5 guineas entitles the subscriber to the privileges of a governor for one year. Magnus’s (St.), London Bridge. A church in Bridge Ward Within, destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren between 1676 and 1?05. The cupola and lantern are much admired. The foot-way under the steeple was made (circ. 1760) to widen the road to old London Bridge. Some difficulty was expected at the time, but Wren had foreseen the probability of a change, and the alteration was effected with ease and security. On the south side of the communion table is a tablet to the memory of Miles Coverdale, rector of St. Magnus’s and Bishop of Exeter, under whose direction, 4th of October, 1535, “ the first com- plete printed English version of the Bible was published.” “ I have also heard, what a round sum was offered hy strangers for the Altar-Cloath of St. Magnus in London.” — Peacham’s Compleat Gentleman, p. 311, 4to, 1661. * WoodVFasti, p. 78. 4 Rate-hooks of St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields, 512 MALL (THE), ST. JAMES’S PARK Maiden Lane, Bankside. The Globe Theatre stood in this lane, and here in Strype’s time (1720) was “ Globe Alley, long and narrow and hilt meanly built.”* Maiden Lane, Coyent Garden. Called, in the early rate-books of St. Paul’s, Covent Garden, “ Maiden-lane, behind the Bull Inn.” Here is still “ Bull Inn Court.” Eminent Inhabitants.— Archbishop Sancroft, when Dean of York. Dugdale, in 1663, addresses a letter to his “ much honoured friend Dr. Sancroft, Dean of York, at Mr. Clarke’s house in Mayden Lane neere Covent Garden. ” — Andrew Marvell, who dates one of his letters to his constituents in Hull from his lodgings in Maiden-lane, April 21st, 1677. f Other letters are dated from Covent Garden. He was lodging in this lane, “on a second floor in a court in the Strand,” when Lord Danby, ascending his stairs with a message and bribe from the King, found him too proud and honest to accept his offer. It is said he was dining off the pickings of a mutton bone, and that as soon as the Lord Treasurer was gone he was obliged to send to a friend to borrow a guinea. — Voltaire, in lodgings at the White Peruke. — Bonnell Thornton was the son of an apothecary, and J. M. W. Turner, R. A., the celebrated landscape painter, the son of a hairdresser in this lane. Observe . — A tavern, No. 20, called the Cider Cellars, a favourite haunt of Professor Porson, still fre- quented by young men, and much in vogue for devilled kidneys, oysters, and Welch rabbits, cigars, glasses of brandy, and great supplies of London stout. Singing is cultivated — the comic vein prevails. Proctor, the sculptor, died, in very reduced cir- cumstances, in a house in Maiden-lane opposite the Cider Cellars. His best work, “ Ixion on the Wheel,” was bought by Sir Abraham Hume, and is now the property of Viscount Alford. Maiden Lane, Lad Lane. “ On the north side of St. Michael’s Church [St. Michael’s, Wood Street] is Mayden Lane now so called, but of old time Ingene or Ing Lane.” — Stow, p. 112. Mall (The), in St. James’s Park. A gravel walk on the north side of the Park extending from Constitution-hill to Spring- gardens. The first Mall, originally a part of St. James’s Park, was the street now called Pall Mall. “ His [St. John’s] father is a man of pleasure that walks the Mall and frequents St. James’s Coffee House, and the chocolate houses, and the young * Strype, B. iv., p. 28. f Marvell’s Works, i. 826, 4to ed. MANCHESTER SQUARE. 513 son is Principal Secretary of State.” — Swift, Journal to Stella, ed. Scott, ii. 77. “ When I pass the Mall in the evening it is prodigious to see the number of ladies walking there.” — Swift , Journal to Stella , ed. Scott, ii. 258. “ I have had this morning as much delight in a walk in the sun as ever I felt formerly in the crowded Mall, even when I imagined I had my share of the admiration of the place, which was generally soured before I slept by the informations of my female friends, who seldom failed to tell me, it was observed that I had shewed an inch above my shoe heels or some other criticism of equal weight, which was construed affectation, and utterly de- stroyed all the satisfaction my vanity had given me.” — Lady Mary W. Montagu to the Countess of Bute, ( Works by Lord Wharnclijfe, iii. 81). “ When all the Mall in leafy ruin lies.” — Gay , Trivia. “ Some feel no flames hut at the Court or Ball, And others hunt white aprons on the Mall.” — Pope. [See Pall Mall ; St. James’s Park]. Manchester Buildings, Westminster. “ Over against this house [Derby House] was another fair house belonging to Henry Clinton, Earl of Lincoln ; also another large house belonging to the Montagues [Earls of Manchester] lately built into a very fine Court, which hath a handsome freestone pavement, and good houses well inhabited, and bears the name of Manchester Court, very pleasant towards the Thames.” — Strype , B. vi., p. 63. Bishop Nicolson, author of the Historical Library, was living here in 1708-9.* Every lodging in Manchester-!) uildings was, during Lord Melbourne’s administration (1835 — 1841) let, it was said, to the members of Mr. O’Connell’s tail. Manchester Square, on the north side of Oxford Street, was begun in 1776 by the building of “ Manchester House ” on the north side, and finished in 1788.1 Manchester House (the French ambassador’s — here Talleyrand lived) was the residence of the Marquis of Hertford, the favourite of the Prince of Wales, afterwards George IV. “ Through M — nch — st — r Square took a canter just now, Met the old yellow chariot and made a low bow.” Tom Moore, Diary of a Politician. The old yellow chariot was the incog, vehicle of the Prince. Mansfield Street, Portland Place, was built by the Messrs. Adam, circ. 1770. Some of the houses in this neighbourhood exhibit good architectural details in the rooms and staircases. Mansfjeld Street, properly Goodman’s Field Street, corruptly Maunsell Street. Garrick lodged in Mansfield- street during the term of his first engagement in London, when Richard III. f Lysons’s Environs, iii. 258. * Thoresby’s Letters, ii. 142. 514 MANSION HOUSE. drew crowded audiences from the west end of London, to Goodman s-Jields Theatre. Man’s Coffee House, on the water side behind Charing Cross, near Scotland Yard, was so called after the keeper or pro- prietor, Mr. Alexander Man. “ Old Man’s,” or the “ Royal Coifee-house,” as it was sometimes called,* was established in the reign of Charles II. ; “ Young Man’s,” in the same locality, in the reign of William III. “We as naturally went from Man’s Coffee House to the Parade, as a coachman drives from Locket’s to the Playhouse.” — Tom Brown's Works , vol. iii., p. 40. “ The Scots go generally to the British [Coffee-house] and a mixture of all sorts to the Smyrna. There are other little Coffee Houses much frequented in this neighbourhood. Young Man’s for officers, Old Man’s for Stock Jobbers, Pay-masters and Courtiers, and Little Man’s for Sharpers.” — De Foe , A Journey through England , vol. i., p. 168, 8vo, 1722. See also Tatler, No. 166. The Spectator (Nos. 403, 550) speaks of “ Jenny Man’s.” Mansion House, the residence of the Lord Mayor during his term of office, was built on the site of the Stocks-market , from the designs of George Dance, the City surveyor, (d. 1768). The first stone was laid Oct. 25th, 1739. Lord Burlington sent a design by Palladio, which was rejected by the City on the inquiry of a Common Councilman, “ Who was Palladio ? — was he a Freeman ? ” It is said to have cost 71,00(B., and was formerly disfigured by an upper story for the servants, familiarly known, east of Temple Bar, as “ The Mare’s Nest.” The principal room is called the Egyptian Hall, and is said at one time to have exhibited some Egyptian details, which occa- sioned the name, hut at present not a trace of Egyptian architecture is visible in any part of the proportions or decora- tions. In this hall, on every Easter Monday, the Lord Majmr gives a great private banquet and ball. The Lord Mayor of London is chosen annually, every 29th of September, from the aldermen below the chair, who have served the office of sheriff, and is installed in office every 9th of November, when “ The Show” or procession between London and Westminster (with the giants and men in armour) takes place. The procession ascends the Thames from Blackfriars to Westminster Bridge, but returns by land. “ ’Twas on that day when Thorold rich and grave, Like Cimon, triumph’d both on land and wave — Pomps without guilt of bloodless swords and maces, Glad chains, warm furs, broad banners, and broad faces.” — Pope. * London Gazette for 1674, No. 875. MANSION HOUSE. 515 The carriage in which the Lord Mayor rides is a large lumber- ing carved and gilt coach, painted and designed by Cipriani, in 1757. Its original cost was 1065/. 3s. ; and it is said, that an expenditure of upwards of 100/. is every year incurred to keep it in repair. Here sits the chief magistrate in his red cloak, and collar of SS, with his chaplain, and his sword and mace-bearers. The sword-bearer carries the sword in the pearl scabbard, presented to the Corporation by Queen Eliza- beth upon opening the Royal Exchange, and the mace-bearer the great gold mace given to the City by Charles I. The first Lord Mayor who went by water to Westminster on Lord Mayor’s day was John Norman, mayor in 1453, and the last Lord Mayor who rode on horseback at his mayoralty was Sir Gilbert Heathcote, in 1711. He is sworn in at Westminster, in the morning of the 9th of November, before one of the Barons of the Exchequer, and then returns to preside at the great mayoralty dinner in Guildhall , at which some of her Majesty’s ministers are invariably present. “ The Lord Mayor of London, by their first Charter, was to be presented to the King, in his absence to the Lord Chief Justiciary of England, afterwards to the Lord Chancellor, now to the Barons of the Exchequer, but still there was a reservation that for their honour they should come once a year to the King, as they do still.” — Selden's Table Talk. The annual salary of the Lord Mayor is 8000/. ; and the annual income of the Corporation of London, about 156,000/., arising from Coal and Corn Dues . Rents and Quit Rents Markets ...... Tolls and Duties .... Brokers’ Rents and Fines . Admissions to the Freedom of the City Renewing Fines for Leases £ estimated at 60,881 „ 56,896 „ 17,126 „ 7,067 „ 3,882 „ 4,518 „ 723 151,003 The Lord Mayor generally spends more than his income, but how the Corporation money is spent is not very well known. The administration of justice at the Central Criminal Court in the Old Bailey costs about 12,182/. a year ; the City Police, about 10,118/. a year ; Newgate, about 9223/. a year ; the House of Correction, about 7602/. a year ; the Debtors’ Prison, about 4955/. a year ; and the expenses of the Con- servancy of the Thames and Medway, (of which the Lord Mayor is Conservator), about 3117/. a year. The Lord Mayor, as the chief magistrate of the City, has the right of precedence in 516 MARGARET (ST.) PATTENS. the City before ail the Royal Family ; a right disputed in St. Paul’s Cathedral by George IV., when Prince of Wales, but maintained by Sir James Shaw, the Lord Mayor, and con- firmed at the same time by King George III. The entire City is placed in his custody, and it is usual on state occasions to close Temple Bar at the approach of the Sovereign, not in order to exclude him, hut in order to admit him in form. The old way of nominating a sheriff was by the Lord Mayor’s drinking to a citizen of distinction on a public occasion. A common hall confirmed the nomination, and named at the same time the new sheriff. The right belonged to the citizens, hut the proceeding was only a matter of courtesy between the citizens and their chief magistrate. This mode of nomination was set aside in 1680. Margaret’s (St.), Lothbury. A church in Coleman-street Ward, destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt as we now see it by Sir Christopher Wren. Observe . — The bowl of the font, (attributed to Grinling Gibbons), sculptured with representa- tions of Adam and Eve in Paradise, the return of the Dove to the Ark, Christ baptized by St. John, and Philip baptizing the Eunuch. Margaret (St.) Moyses. A church in Friday-street, Bread- street Ward, “so called (it seemeth) of one Moyses, that was founder or new builder thereof.” * It was destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt. Margaret’s (St.), New Fish Street. A church in Bridge Ward Within, destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt. Stow describes it as “a proper church, but monuments it hath none.” Margaret (St.) Pattens. A church in Eastcheap, in Billings- gate Ward , facing Rood-lane, and St. Mary-at-H.ill , destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren. It was called “Pattens,” “because of old,” in what is now Rood-lane, “pattens were there usually made and sold.” •f Dr. Thomas Birch, (d. 1766), author of the General Dictionary, and an important contributor to the illustration of British History, was buried in the chancel of this church. “ My desire is,” he says in his will, “ that my body may be interred in the chancel of the church of St. Margaret Pattens, of which I have been now rector near nineteen years.” Observe . — Some good foliage in wood in the church. * Stow, p. 131 . f Stow, p. 79. MARGARET’S (ST.), WESTMINSTER, 517 Margaret’s (St.), Southwark, or, St. Margaret on the Hill, is no longer standing. [See St. Margaret’s Hill]. “ Now passing through St. Mary Over’s close (in possession of the Lord Mountacute) and Pepper Alley into Long Southwark, on the right hand there of the Market hill, where the leather is sold, there stood the late named parish church of St. Margaret, given to St. Mary Overies by Henry I., put down and joined with the parish of St. Mary Magdalen, and united to the late dissolved priory church of St. Mary Overy. “ A part of this parish church of St. Margaret is now a Court, wherein the assizes and sessions be kept, and the Court of Admiralty is also there kept. One other part of the same church is now a prison, called the Compter in Southwarke,” &c. — Stow, p. 153. Margaret’s (St.), Westminster. A parish church north of West- minster Abbey , planted at the distance of a few yards from it. “ The parish church of St. Margaret, sometime within the abbey, was by Edward the Confessor removed and built without, for ease of the monks. This church continued till the days of Edward I., at which time the merchants of the Staple and parishioners at Westminster built it all of new, the chancel excepted, which was built by the abbots of Westminster; and this remaineth now a fair parish church, though sometime in danger of down pulling.” — Stow, p. 172. Architects recognise, it is said, certain remains of the age of Edward I. in the existing edifice ; I am afraid, however, they are very few. The church was “repaired, altered, and beau- tified,” in 1682 , and again repaired within the present cen- tury. This is the church of the House of Commons , and here, in Charles I.’s time, all the Fast Hay Sermons were preached before Pym, Cromwell, Harrison, Praise-God Barebones, and the rest of the then Parliament of England. “ 25 Sept. 1643. Both Houses, with the Assembly of Divines, and Scots Commissioners, met in St. Margaret’s Church, Westminster, where Mr. White, one of the Assembly, prayed an hour to prepare them for taking the Covenant, then Mr. Nye in the Pulpit made some observations touching the Covenant, showing the warrant of it from Scripture, the examples of it since the Creation, and the benefit of the Church. Mr. Henderson, one of the Scots Commis- sioners, concluded in a Declaration of what the Scots had done, and the good they had received. Then Mr. Nye in the Pulpit read the Covenant, and all present held up their hands in testimony of their assent to it ; and afterwards in the several houses subscribed their names in a Parchment Roll, where the Covenant was written : the Divines of the Assembly and the Scots Commis- sioners likewise subscribed the Covenant, and then Dr. Gouge in the Pulpit prayed for a blessing upon it.” — Whiteloclce , p. 74, ed. 1732. Hugh Peters preached here, exciting the Parliament to bring Charles I. to trial. “ After I had dined I passed through St. Margaret’s Churchyard to go home again, (I lay in the Strand). I perceived all the churchyard full of muskets and pikes upon the ground, and asked some soldiers that were there what was the business. They told me they were guarding the Parliament that were xxxiv. 518 MARGARET’S (ST.), WESTMINSTER. keeping a fast at St. Margaret’s. 4 Who preaches ? ’ said I. They told me Mr. Peters has just now gone up into the pulpit. Said I, 4 1 must needs have the curiosity to hear that man,’ having heard many stories of the manner of his preaching, (God knows, I did not do it out of any manner of devotion). I crowded near the pulpit, and came near the speaker’s pew ; and I saw a great many Members there whom I knew well. I could not guess what his text might he, but hearing him talk much of Barabbas and our Saviour, and insist- ing altogether upon that, I guessed his text was that passage wherein the Jews did desire the release of Barabbas, and crucifying Christ ; and so it proved. The first thing I heard him say was, 4 It was a very sad thing that this should be a question amongst us, as among the old Jews, whether our Saviour Jesus Christ must be crucified, or that Barabbas should be released, the oppressor of the people : O Jesus,’ saith he, 4 where are we, that that should be a question amongst us ? ’ says he ; 4 and because that you should think, my Lords and Gentlemen, that it is a question, I tell you it is a question ; I have been in the City, which may be very well compared to Hierusalem in this conjuncture of time, and I profess those foolish citizens, for a little trading and profit, they will have Christ (pointing to the Red Coats on the pulpit-stairs) crucified, and the great Barabbas at Windsor released,’ says he. 4 But I do not much heed what the rabble say : I hope,’ says he, 4 that my brethren of the clergy will be wiser, the lips of the priests do use to preserve knowledge ; I have been with them too in the Assembly, and having seen and heard what they said, I per- ceive they are for crucifying of Christ, and releasing of Barabbas ; O Jesus, what shall we do now?’ With such like strange expressions, and shrugging of his shoulders in the pulpit.” — Trial of Hugh Peters, ( Evidence of Beaver). 44 And that they might effect their business with a greater formality, they held a Solemn Fast at St. Margaret’s Church at Westminster ; four of the most zealous Lords being present thereat ; and of the House of Commons at least Twenty ; where their Pulpit Buffoon Hugh Peters preached to them of bring- ing the children of Israel out of Egyptian Bondage, whereunto he paralleled the state of this kingdom. And the better to show how they should be brought out of this bondage ; having put his hands before his eyes, and laid his head on the cushion ; thence raising it up again, (after a while), he told them that he had a Revelation how to do it, by extirpating Monarchy, both here and in all other places.” — Dugdale's Troubles in England , p. 365, fol. 1680. 44 The Fast-Day Sermons at St. Margaret’s, Westminster, in spite of printers, are all grown dumb ! In long rows of dumpy little quartos, gathered from the bookstalls, they indeed stand here bodily before us : by human volition they can be read, but not by any human memory remembered. We forget them as soon as read ; they have become a weariness to the soul of man. They are dead and gone, they and what they shadowed. Alas, and did not the honourable Houses of Parliament listen to them with rapt earnestness, as to an indisputable message from Heaven itself? Learned and painful Dr. Owen, learned and painful Dr. Burgess, Stephen Marshall, Mr. Spurstow, Adoniram Byfield, Hugh Peters, Philip Nye : the Printer has done for them what he could — and no most astonishing Review- Article of our day can have half such 4 brilliancy,’ such potency, half such virtue for producing belief, as these their poor little dumpy quartos once had.” — T. Carlyle , ( Cromwell’s Letters , See Carnaby Street.] Marshalsea (The). A prison in High-street, Southwark, attached to the King’s House, and adjoining the King’s Bench, and so called “ as pertaining to the Marshals of England. ”f It was originally erected as a prison for the committal of persons accused of offences committed within the verge of Court, j and was the second in importance of the five great prisons existing in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The first was the Tower ; the second the Marshalsea, attached to the King’s House ; the third the Fleet, for Westminster Hall ; the fourth the Compter, for the city of London ; and the fifth the Gatehouse, for the city of Westminster. The chief officer was the Marshal, whose men attended at the Privy Council door, as the officers of the Warden of the Fleet did at the Star Chamber door.§ The Earl Marshal, I believe, ceased to be connected with it from a very early period. When the Gaol Committee made their in- quiry in 1729 they found that “ the prison of the Marshalsea doth belong to the Court of Marshalsea of the King’s Household and to the Court of Record of the King’s Palace of Westminster,” and that the Knight Marshal of the King’s Household farmed it out to his Deputy Marshal for the yearly rent of 140/., and the further yearly rent of 260/. arising from lodging money ; and in the Act of Parliament (5 6 Viet., c. 22), by which it is consolidated with the Queen’s Bench and the Fleet, it is thus described : — “ The prison of the Marshalsea of Her Majesty’s household is a prison for debtors and for persons charged with contempt of Her Majesty’s Courts of the Marshalsea, the Court of the Queen’s Palace of Westminster, and the High Court of * Pennant says Lord M. lived in Gerard Street at this time, but the hackney- coachman in his evidence before the Coroner, states that he drove to his lordship’s lodgings in Great Marlboro ugh-street, and his lordship’s footman makes a similar statement. + Stow, p. 153. J The jurisdiction of the Court extended over a circuit of twelve miles from the Palace where the King’s lodging then was, and accompanied a progress but not a chase. § Lansdowne MS., No. 74, a paper “ touching the Marshalsea ” drawn up by the Marshal and addressed to Lord Burleigh. MARTIN’S (ST.) IN THE FIELDS. 525 Admiralty, and also for Admiralty prisoners under sentence of courts martial. ” The period of its first establishment in South- wark is unknown. It was here, however, as early as Edward III.’s reign, and was destroyed by the rebels of Kent in 1381. It stood in the High-street of Southwark, on the south side, between King-street and Mermaid-court, and over against Union-street.* “ The Court of the Marshalsea of the Queen’s House,” the present “ Palace Court,” and of which the Lord Steward is the judge, was removed in 1801 from Southwark to Scotland-yard , when the Earl of Aylesford was Lord Steward. Littleton, the great lawyer, was made by Henry YI. steward or judge of this court. Bonner, Bishop of London, died in this prison, Sept. 5th, 1569, and was buried at midnight amongst other prisoners in the churchyard of St. George's, Southwark. Here Christopher Brooke, the poet, was confined for giving Ann More in marriage to Dr. Donne unknown to her father ; and here Wither wrote his best poem, The Shepherd’s Hunting. “ I committed Cromes, a broker in Long Lane, the 16 of Febru. 1634, to the Marshalsea, for lending a church robe 'with the name of Jesus upon it, to the players in Salisbury Court, to present a Flamen, a priest of the heathens. Upon his petition of submission, and acknowledgment of his faulte, I releas’d him the 17 Febr. 1634.” — Sir Henry Herbert, the Master of the Revels, ( Shakspeare by Boswell, iii. 237). “ Lord Chamberlain. Go, break among the press, and find a way out To let the troop pass fairly, or I ’ll find A Marshalsea shall hold ye play these two months.” ShaJcspeare, Henry VIII., Act v., sc. 3. Martin’s (St.) in the Fields. A parish from a very early period, but first made independent of St. Margaret s, Westminster, in 1535, temp. Henry VIII., before which time the inhabitants “had no parish church, hut did resort to the parish church of St. Margarets in Westminster, and were thereby found to bring their bodies by the Courtgate of Whitehall, which the said Henry, then misliking, caused the church in the parish of St. Martin-in-the-Melds to be there erected, and made a parish there. ”t Henry, Prince of Wales, added a chancel in 1607 ; but this was found insufficient for the parish, and the present stately church, designed by Gibbs, was commenced in 1721, and finished in 1726, at a cost of 36,89U. 10s. 4 d., including 1500^, for an organ. Observe . — The portico, one of the finest pieces of architecture in London. The interior is so constructed that it is next to impossible to erect a monument. The steeple is heavy, hut well proportioned. In the vaults may be seen the * See a plan of it in Wilkinson. + Recital in grant to tbe parish from King James I. 526 MARTIN’S (ST.) IN THE FIELDS. old parish whipping-post, and the tombs of Sir Theodore Mayerne, physician to James I. and Charles I., and Secretary Coventry, from whom Coventry-street derives its name. St. Martin’s-in- the- Fields originally included the several parishes of St. Paul’s, Covent Garden ; St. James’s, Westminster ; St. Ann’s, Soho ; and St. George’s, Hanover-square ; extending as far as Marylebone to the north, Whitehall on the south, the Savoy on the east, and Chelsea and Kensington on the west. When first rated to the poor in Queen Elizabeth’s reign, the parish contained less than one hundred people liable to he rated. The chief inhabitants resided in the Strand by the water side, or close to the church at the foot of the present St. Martin’s- lane. Pall Mall and Piccadilly were then unnamed and unbuilt ; and beyond the church westwards was St. James’s- fields, Hay-hill farm, Ebury farm, and the Neat Houses about Chelsea. St. Paul’s, Covent Garden, was taken out of it in 1638 ; St. James’s, Westminster, in 1684 ; and St. Ann’s, Soho, in 1686. About the year 1680 it was, what Burnet calls it, “ the greatest cure in England,”* with a popu- lation, says Richard Baxter, of 40,000 persons more than could come into the church, and “where neighbours,” he adds, “ lived, like Americans, without hearing a sermon for many years.” Fresh separations only tended to lessen the resources of the parish, and nothing was done to improve its appearance till 1826, when the churchyard was removed and the streets widened pursuant to an Act of Parliament, (7 Geo. IV., c. 77). Eminent Per sons buried here, — Hilliard, the miniature painter, (d. 1619). — Paul Vansomer, the painter, (d. 1621). — Sir John Davys, the poet, (d. 1626). — N. Laniere, the painter and musician, (d. 1646). — Sir Theodore Mayerne, the physician, (d. 1655-6). — Dobson, called the English Vandyck, (d. 1646). — Nicholas Stone, the sculptor, (d. 1647). — Stanley, the editor of Aeschy- lus, (d. 1678.) — Lacy, the actor, (d. 1681). — Nell Gwynn, (d. 1687). — Secretary Coventry, (d. 1686). — Hon. Robert Boyle, the philosopher, (d. 1691). — Sir John Birkenhead, the wit, (d. 1679) ; he left directions that he should not be buried within the church because they removed coffins. — Rose, the gardener to Charles II., who raised the first pineapple grown in England. — Lord Mohun, who fell in the duel with the Duke of Hamilton, (d. 1712). — Laguerre, the painter, (d. 1721). — Jack Sheppard, (d. 1724). — Farquhar, the dramatist, (d. 1707). — Roubiliac, the sculptor, (d. 1762). — Charles Bannister, the actor, (d. 1804), in a vault under communion table. — James Smith, one of the authors of the Rejected Addresses, (d. 1839). The register * Burnet’s Own Times, i. 327, ed. 1823. MARTIN’S (ST.) LANE. 527 records the baptism of Lord Bacon, who was born in 1561, in York House in this parish. The parish has an additional burying ground in Camden Town ; here Charles Dibdin, the song-writer, is buried — there is a monument to mark his grave. Martin’s (St.) Lane. A street extending from Long Acre to Trafalgar Square and Charing Cross ; built circ. 1613, and then called “ the West Church-lane.” It is written, for the first time, “ St. Martin 8 Lane” in the rate-book of St. Martin’s, in the year 1617-18. The upper part was originally called the Terrace.* The church at the foot of the lane is St. Martin s-in-tlie-Melds . Eminent Inhabitants. — Sir Theodore May erne, physician to James I., on the west side. He was living here in 1613, when it was called “the West Church-lane.” — Sir John Finett, author of Finetti Philoxenis : some Choice Observations touching the Reception, Precedence, &c., of Forren Ambassadors in England, 8vo, 1656. — Daniel Mytens, the painter, on the west side, from 1622 to 1634 ; two doors off Sir Theodore Mayerne, and five from Sir John Finett. Prince Charles, afterwards Charles I., gave him the house for twelve years at the peppercorn rent of 6c?. a year. — Sir Benjamin Rudyerd, in 1624-5; next to Sir John Finett. — Abraham Vanderdoort, keeper of the pictures to Charles I., on the west side. — Sir William Alexander, afterwards Earl of Stirling, in 1631-2. — Carew Raleigh, (Sir Walter’s son), from 1636 to 1638, and again in 1664 ; west side. — Sir John Suckling, in 1641. — Sir Kenelm Digby, in 1641. f — Dr. Thomas Willis, the phy- sician^ (d. 1675). —Earl of Shaftesbury, in 1675-77 ; west side. — Dr. Thomas Te^nison, vicar of St. Martin’s, after- wards Archbishop of Canterbury, west side, in 1683. — Ambrose Philips, (Hamby Pamby), from 1720 to 1725, when gone is against his name ; two doors from Slaughter’s Coffee-house, lower down, west side. — Sir James Thornhill, behind No. 104 ; the staircase had allegorical pictures from his pencil. — Sir Joshua Reynolds, nearly opposite to May’s-build- ings.§ He afterwards removed to Newport-street , and lastly to Leicester-square. — L. F. Roubiliac, the sculptor. “ The studio in which Roubiliac commenced on his own account was in Peter’s Court, St. Martin’s Lane — a favourite haunt of artists : the room has since been pulled down and rebuilt, and is now occupied as a Meeting House by the Society of Friends .” — Allcm Cvrnii/rigJiam, in. 35. * Postman of Feb. 1705. + Howell’s Letters, p. 407, ed. 1737. + Ath. Ox., vol. ii., p. 550, ed. 1721. § Malone’s Life of Sir J. Reynolds, p* 1 1 . 528 MARTIN’S (ST.) LE GRAND. In 1756 he was rated to the poor of St. Martin s-in-the-Pields at 4 51. He afterwards removed to a studio on the west side, opposite Slaughter 8 Coffee-house , where he died in 1762. — Fuseli, at No. 100, in 1784-5. — “ It has been, I understand, a constant tradition,” sajs Smith, the author of the Life of Nollekens, “ that in Lord Salisbury’s house, now the site of No. 114, the seven bishops were lodged before they were con- veyed to the Tower.”* The great banking house of Coutts h Co. was established in this lane in the reign of Queen Anne by one Middleton, a goldsmith. In a great room, on the west side, nearly opposite Old Slaughter s, N. Hone, the painter, ex- hibited, in 1775, his celebrated “ Conjurer,” intended as a satire upon Sir Joshua Reynolds’s mode of composing his pictures;! and in Cecil-court, in 1776, Abraham Raimbach, the engraver, was born. Observe. — The colour-shop, No. 96, on the west side. [See Slaughter’s]. “ This house has a large staircase, curiously painted of figures viewing a procession, which was executed for the famous Dr. Misaubin, about the year 1732, by a painter of the name of Clermont, a Frenchman. Behind the house there is a large room, the inside of ydiich Hogarth has given in his Rake’s Progress, where he has introduced portraits of the Doctor and his Irish wife.” — Smith's Nollelcens, vol. ii., p. 228. J Martin’s (St.) le Grand. A collegiate church and sanctuary, on the site of the General Post-Office, (no traces remain), founded or enlarged by Ingelric, Earl of Essex, and Girard, his brother, in 1056, and confirmed by a charter of William the Conqueror in 1068. It stood within the walls of the city of London, but was a liberty by itself, the Mayor and Corporation often endeavouring, but in vain, to interfere with the privileges of the precinct. Criminals on their way to execution from Newgate to Tower-hill passed the south gate of St. Martin’s, and often sought, sometimes successfully, to escape from their attendants into the adjoining sanctuary. In the reign of Henry YI. a soldier, on his way from Newgate to Guildhall, was seized by five of his fellows, who came out of Panyer-alley, in Newgate-street, and forced him from the officers of the Compter into the sanctuary of St. Martin’s. Miles Forest, one of the murderers of the two Princes in the Tower, “rotted away piece-meal ” § in the same sanctuary. The advowsons of the deanery were given by Henry VII. to the Abbey at Westminster, and the last Abbots of Westminster were the last Deans of St. Martin ’s-le-Grand. The most celebrated dean was William of Wykeham, who * Smith’s Nollekens, ii. 234. + Edwards’s Anec., p. 100. J Dr. Misaubin died in 1734. See a story in the Richardsoniana, p. 160. § Sir Thomas More. MARTIN’S (ST.), LUDGATE. 529 rebuilt the cloister of the Chapter House and the body of the church. At the dissolution of religious houses the college was levelled to the ground, and a kind of Alsatia established, let to “ strangers born,” and highly prized from the privileges of sanctuary which the inhabitants, chiefly manufacturers of counterfeit ware, latten and copper articles, beads, Ac., con- tinued to enjoy till a very late period. “ ’Tis not those paltry counterfeits, French stones which in our eyes you set, But our right diamonds that inspire, And set your am’rous hearts on fire. Nor can those false St. Martin’s beads, Which on our lips you place for reds, And make us wear like Indian dames, Add fuel to your scorching flames.” — Hudibras. “ Round Court [St. Martin’s-le-Grand] hath a passage into Blowbladder Street, which is taken up by Milleners, Sempstresses and such as sell a sort of Copper Lace called St. Martin’s Lace, for which it is of note.” — St7 , ype, B. iii., p. 121. When the excavations were making, in 1818, for the General Post-Office, an early English crypt and the vaults of a still earlier foundation were discovered and destroyed.* Martin’s (St.) Lane, St. Martin’s le Grand. “ Then have ye the main street of this Ward [Aldersgate] which is called St. Martin’s Lane.” — Stow, p. 114. “ Lower down on the West side of St. Martin’s Lane, in the parish of St. Anne almost by Aldersgate, is one great house commonly called Nor- thumberland House; it belonged to H. Percy [Hotspur], King Henry IY. in the 7th of his reign gave this house, with the tenements thereunto apper- taining, to Queen Jane his wife, and then it was called her Wardrobe : it is now a printing house.”]* — Stow, p. 115. Martin’s (St.), Ludgate. A church in the ward of Farringdon Within, destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren as we now see it. The font is good. Samuel Purchas, the editor and enlarger of Hakluyt, was rector of this church. He died (1628) in distressed circumstances, occasioned by the publication of Haklvytvs Posthumus or Purchas his Pilgrimes, of which the best edition is that in 5 vols., folio, 1625-6. Martin’s (St.) Orgar. A church in CandlewicJc Ward , destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt. Stow calls it “ a small thing.” Martin’s (St.) Outwich, or, St. Martin’s with the Well and * There are views of the Crypt in Wilkinson and in Kempe’s History of St. Martin’s-le-Grand. + I suppose John Day’s, who dwelt within Aldersgate, (see Stow, p. 14). A A 530 MARTIN’S (ST.) STREET. two Buckets.* A church in Broad-street Ward , where Thread- needle-street unites with Bishopsgate-street. “ On the south part of Threeneedle Street, beginning at the east, by the well with two buckets, now turned to a pump, is the parish church of St. Martin called Oteswich, of Martin de Oteswich, Nicholas de Oteswich, William Oteswich, and John Oteswich founders thereof.” — Stow , p. 68. The old church escaped the Great Fire, and was taken down in 1796, and rebuilt, as we now see it, by the late S. P. Cockerell. The first stone was laid May 4th, 1796, and the church conse- crated by Porteous, Bishop of London, Nov. 26th, 1798. The total cost was 52561. 1 7s. Id* Observe. — Two recumbent figures, sculptured in stone, of John Oteswich and his wife, the “ fair monument ” described by Stow ; tomb of Hugh Pem- berton (d. 1500) and his wife ; two brasses, near the chancel, to Nicholas Wotton, rector, (d. 1482), and John Brent, rector, (in 1451); monument to Alderman Staper, (1594). The chancel window contains some old armorial-bearings — one (Naylor impaled with Nevil) has the date upon it of 1483. Martin (St.) Pomary, in Ironmonger-lane, a church in the ward of Cheap, destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt. “ In this lane [Ironmonger-lane] is the small parish church of St. Martin called Pomary, upon what occasion I certainly know not. It is supposed to he of apples growing where houses are now lately built; for myself have seen large void places there.”— Stow, p. 102. Martin’s (St.) Street, Leicester Square. Sir Isaac Newton lived from 1710 till 1727, the year of his death, in the large ruinous- looking house next the Chapel on the east side. The house, in 1709, (the year before Newton took it), was inhabited by the Envoy of Denmark. Sir Isaac built the small observatory at the top. In 1727 his name is scored out of the parish books, and “ Empty ” written against the house. The next inhabitant was Paul Docminique, Esq. Here Dr. Burney, author of the History of Music, lived ; and here his daughter, Fanny Burney, wrote her novel of Evelina. Martin’s (St.), Yintry. A church in Vintry Ward, destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt. St. Martin is the patron saint of the vintners. Martlet Court, Bow Street, Covent Garden. Shuter, the actor, was living at No. 2 in March, 1756, when he advertised his benefit in the Public Advertiser of March 8th, 1756. “ Blushes each spout in Martlet Court, And Barbican, moth-eaten fort — And Co vent Carden kennels sport A bright ensanguined drain.” Rejected Addresses, (. Imitation of Scott). * See Machyn’s Diary, by Nichols, p. 367. MARY (ST.) ALDERMANBURY. 531 Mary (St.) Abchurch. A church in Abchurch-lane , Cancllewick Ward, destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren, as we now see it, in 1686. “ St. Mary Abchurch, Apechurch, or Upchurch, as I have read it, standeth on a rising ground. Jt is a fair church.” — Stow , p. 82. The interior is nearly a square, and contains some capital festoons of flowers by Grinling Gibbons ; a cupola, painted by Sir James Thornhill ; and a monument, “ shouldering God’s altar,” to Sir Patience Ward, (d. 1696), Lord Mayor in 1681. James Nasmith, the editor of Tanner’s Notitia Monastica, (1787), held the living of this church, which is a rectory in the gift of Corpus Christi College, Oxford. Mary (St.) Aldermanbury. A church in Cripplegate Ward, destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren, as we now see it, in 1677. Edmund Calamy (d. 1666) was appointed to this living in 1639, and ejected in 1662 by the Act of Uni- formity. The living was subsequently held by White Kennett, Bishop of Peterborough, editor of the Complete History of England, (3 vols. folio), and author of the Register known as Kennett’s Register, (d. 1728). Eminent Persons buried here . — Heminge, (d. 1630), and Condell, (d. 1627), the first editors of Shakspeare, and the fellow players remembered by the poet in his will. Edmund Calamy, (d. 1666), “ just under the pulpit,” as his grandson tells us in his Life.* Judge Jeffreys, (d. 1689), in a vault on the north side of the communion table. “ In the year 1810, when the Church was repaired, the coffin was found still fresh with the name of ‘ Lord Chancellor Jeffreys’ inscribed upon it.” — Campbell's Lives of the Chancellors , p. 580. The register, under Nov. 12th, 1656, records Milton’s marriage to his second wife. Milton was a parishioner of St. Margaret’s, Westminster, his wife a parishioner of Aldermanbury. Mary (St.) Aldermary, Bow Lane, Watling Street. A church in Cordwainer-street Ward, destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren, as we now see it, in 1681. “ A fair church, called Aldermarie Church, because the same was very old, and elder than any church of St. Marie in the city, till of late years the foundation of a very fair new church was laid there by Henry Keble, grocer, mayor, who deceased 1518, and was there huried.” — Stow, p. 95. The present church is supposed to he a copy of Keble’s building. It is a curious specimen of Wren’s neglect of what he calls “ the crinkle crankle ” of the details of Perpendicular buildings. Mary (St.) at Hill. A church in Billingsgate Ward, “called Y j on the Hill, because of the ascent from Billingsgate, ”t * * Calamy’s Life, i. 126. + Stow, p. 79. A a 2 532 MARY (ST.) AXE. destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren. The exterior of the east end of Wren’s design alone remains. The register records the marriage (May, 1731) of Dr. Young, the author of Night Thoughts. Brand, author of The Popular Antiquities, was rector of St. Mary-at-Hill, and was buried in the chancel of his church in 1806. Mary (St.) Axe. A street and parish in Lime-street Ward, united to the parish church, St. Andrew’s Undershaft, about the year 1565. The street runs from Lime-street end into Camomile- street, and is chiefly inhabited by Jews. The church at the corner is St. Andrew s Undershaft. “ In St. Marie Street had ye of old time a parish church of St. Marie the Virgin, St. Ursula and the eleven thousand Virgins, which church was com- monly called St. Marie at the Axe, of the sign of an Axe, over against the east end thereof. This parish, about the year 1565, was united to the parish church of St. Andrew Undershaft, and so was St. Mary at the Axe, suppressed and letten to he a warehouse for a merchant.” — Stow , p. 61. “ Jews from St. Mary Axe, for jobs so wary, That for old clothes they ’d even axe St. Mary.” Rejected Addresses , ( Imitation of Crabbe), Mary (St.) Bothaw or Boatehaw by the Erbor. A church in Walbrook Ward, destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt. “ This church, being near unto the Downegate on the river Thames, hath the addition of Boathaw, of near adjoining to a haw or yard, wherein of old time boats were made, and landed from Downegate to be mended, as may be supposed, for other reason I find none why it should be so called.” — Stow , p. 86. Mary (St.) Colechurch. A church in the ward of Cheap, de- stroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt. It stood in Old Jewry , on the site of what is now called FredericJc-place. Peter of Cole- church, (d. 1205), the architect of Old London Bridge, was chaplain of St. Mary Colechurch. “ At the south end of Conyhope Lane is the parish church of St. Mary Colechurch, named of one Cole that built it ; this church is built upon a wall above ground, so that men are forced to go to ascend up thereunto by certain steps. I find no monuments of this church, more than that Henry IV. granted license to William Marshal and others to found a brotherhood of St. Katherine therein, because Thomas a Becket and St. Edmund the Arch- bishop were baptized there.” — Stow, p. 99. Mary’s (St.), Islington. The mother-church of Islington, an ugly building, designed by Launcelot Dowbiggin. The first stone was laid Aug. 28th, 1751, and the church opened May 26th, 1754. In the churchyard are buried Osborne, the bookseller, whom Johnson knocked down, (d. 1767); Earlom, the engraver of Claude’s Liber Yeritatis ; and John Nichols, editor of the Gentlemans Magazine, and compiler of the Literary Anecdotes, MARY’S (ST.), LAMBETH. 533 (d. 1826). In the old church (on the site of the present build- ing) Sir George Wharton and James Steward were buried, (Nov. 10th, 1609), at the 'expense of King James I. They fought with rapier and dagger “ at the farther end of Islington; ” and the duel in which they fell is commemorated in a ballad preserved by Sir Walter Scott in his Border Minstrelsy. Mart’s (St.), Lambeth. The mother-church of the manor and parish of Lambeth — a patched-up thing, with some rather good Perpendicular parts, hut with little or nothing to recommend it to the architectural student. It stands facing the river Thames, immediately adjoining Cardinal Morton’s red-brick gateway to Lambeth Palace. Observe . — Monumental brass to Catherine, wife of William, Lord Howard, (d. 1535). — Brass on north side of chancel to Thomas Clere, Esq,, (d. 1545). Over it was for- merly an epitaph, in English verse, by the celebrated Earl of Surrey.— Monument of white and black marble, with bust, to Robert Scott, Esq., of Bawerie, in Scotland, (d. 1631). “ He invented the leather ordnance.” The epitaph is worth reading. — Tomb, within the rails of the communion table, of Archbishop Bancroft, (d. 1610). — Tomb, in middle of chancel, of Arch- bishop Tenison, (d. 1715). — Tomb, in passage between church and palace, of Archbishop Seeker, (d. 1768).— Marble slab (near the vestry door in south aisle) to Elias Ashmole, the founder of the Ashmolean Museum at Oxford. — Altar-tomb, in churchyard, of John Tradescant, the collector, with pyramids and palms, death’s-heads and pelicans, on the sides. The flatstone on the top was repaired in 1773. — In the south-east window of the middle aisle is the full-length figure of a pedlar with his pack, his staff, and dog, the unknown person who gave Pedlar* s-acre to the parish of Lambeth, upon condition that his portrait and that of his dog be perpetually preserved in painted glass in one of the windows of the church. The register records the interment of Cuthbert Tunstall, Bishop of Durham, in the reign of Mary I., and of Thomas Thirleby, the first and only Bishop of Westminster, both of whom died prisoners, deprived of their sees, in Lambeth Palace, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. The same official document records the burial of Simon Forman, the astrologer, so intimately connected with the murder of Sir Thomas Overbury ; of Thomas Cooke, the trans- lator of Hesiod, (d. 1757); and of Edward Moore, author of the tragedy of The Gamester, which still retains a place upon the stage, (d. 1757). Mary (St.) le Bone, or, St. Mary on the Bourne, tee Tyburn.] A church in High-street, Marylebone , the mother- church of the 534 MARY (ST.) LE BONE. manor and parish, built in 1741 on the site of a former edifice, selected by Hogarth for the scene of the Rake’s marriage to a deformed and superannuated female. Part of the inscription in the picture beginning — “ These : pewes : vnscrvd : and : tane : in : sundir,” remains to this day, raised in wood, in one of the gallery pews. * Observe. — Tablet to Gibbs, (d. 1754), the architect of the church of St. Martin’ s-in-the-Pields ; tablet, by T. Banks, R.A., to Dr. Johnson’s friend, Baretti, (d. 1789), buried in the cemetery on the north side of Paddington-street ; tablet, with lines by Hayley, to Caroline Watson, the engraver, (d. 1814) ; flatstone on the floor of the church, to Humphrey Wanley, library-keeper to the Earls of Oxford, (d. 1726). In the churchyard adjoining the church is a monument to James Ferguson, the astronomer, (d. 1776), Isabel his wife, and James their eldest son. Another monument marks the burial-place of the Rev. Charles Wesley, younger brother of John Wesley. The parish register records the following interments: — James Figg, the prize-fighter, (d. 1734) ; Hogarth introduced his portrait into the second plate of the Rake’s Progress. — John Vanderbank, the portrait- painter, (d. 1739). — Archibald Bower, (d. 1766), author of the History of the Popes. — Edmund Hoyle, (d. 1769), author of the Treatise on Whist ; he was 90 years of age at the time of his decease. — John Michael Ryshrack, the sculptor, (d. 1770). — Wil- liam Guthrie, (d. 1770), author of several histories which hear his name ; buried in the cemetery bn the south side of Paddington- street, where against the east wall is a monument to his memory. — Allan Ramsay, the portrait-painter, (d. 1784), son of the author of The Gentle Shepherd. — John Dominick Serres, the marine painter, (d. 1793). The register of baptisms contains the following entry : — “ 1803, May 13. Horatia Nelson Thompson, b. 29 October 1800;” Lord Nelson’s daughter, it is said, by Lady Hamilton. There are two large cemeteries attached to this church, — one on the south side of Paddington-street, consecrated in 1733; the other on the north, consecrated in 1772. In the cemetery on the north side Baretti is buried ; in the cemetery on the south, William Guthrie, and the father of George Canning. The inscription on the monument to Mr. Canning is scarcely legible. * u The first two lines of this inscription are the originals ; the last two were restored in 1816, at the expense of the Rev. Mr. Chapman, the minister.’’ — Smith's Marylebone , p. 62. The fifth plate of the Harlot’s Progress was published June 25, 1735. MARY (ST.) LE BOW. 5 35 Mary (St.) le bone, (New Church). On the south side of the New- Road, opposite York Gate, Regent’s Park, and designed by Thomas Hardwicke, a pupil of Sir William Chambers, and the father of Philip Hardwicke, the architect of the new Hall at Lincoln’s Inn. The portico faces the north, a peculiarity forced upon the architect by the nature of the ground selected for its erection. The first stone was laid July 5th, 1813, and the building consecrated Feb. 4th, 1817. The total cost was about 60,000?. Observe. — Altar-piece of the Holy Family, presented by the painter, Benjamin West, P.R.A. ; tablet to Richard Cosway, R.A., (d. 1821). James Northcote, R.A., the pupil and biographer of Sir Joshua Reynolds, is buried in the vaults. Mary (St.) le Bow. A church in Cheapside, in Cordwainer’s Ward, and commonly called “ Bow Church.” “ This church in the reign of William the Conqueror, being the first in this City built on arches of stone, was therefore called New Marie Church, of St. Marie de Arcubus or Le Bow in West Cheaping; as Stratford Bridge being the first built (by Matilde the queen, wife to Henry I.) with arches of stone, was called Stratford le Bow; which names to the said church and bridge remaineth till this day. The Court of the Arches is kept in this church, and taketh the name of the place, not the place of the court ; but of what anti- quity or continuation that Court hath there continued I cannot learn. This church, for divers accidents happening there, hath been made more famous than any other parish church of the whole city or suburbs.” — Stow, p. 95. The old church, described by Stow, was destroyed in the Great Fire, and the present church, one of Sir Christopher Wren’s great masterpieces, erected immediately after. “ The steeple is much admired ; for my part I never saw a beautiful modern steeple.” — Horace Walpole. Observe. — The fine old Norman crypt : Wren used the arches of the old church to support his own superstructure. It is used as a vault, and somewhat concealed in parts by piles of coffins. There are several views of it in the Yetusta Monumenta ; hut it is not generally shown. Monument, by T. Banks, R.A., to Bishop Newton, the editor of Milton, (d. 1782). “ Bow-hells ” have long been, and are still, famous. “In the year 1469 it was ordained by a Common Council that the Bow Bell should be nightly rung at nine of the clock. Shortly after, John Donne, mercer, by his testament dated 1472, gave to the parson and church- wardens two tenements in Hosier Lane to the maintenance of Bow Bell, the same to be rung as aforesaid, and other things to be observed as by the will appeareth. This Bell being usually rung somewhat late, as seemed to the young men, prentices, and others in Cheap, they made and set up a rhyme against the clerk as followeth : — ‘ Clerke of the Bow Bell with the yellow lockes, For thy late ringing thy head shall have knocks.’ 536 MARY (ST.) LE BOW. Whereunto the Clerk replying wrote : ‘ Children of Cheape, hold you all still, For you shall have the Bow Bell rung at your will.’ ” Stow , p. 96. People born within the sound of Bow-hells are usually called Cockneys. Beaumont and Fletcher speak of “ Bow-hell suckers,” i. e as Mr. Dyce properly explains it, “ children horn within the sound of Bow-bell.” * Anthony Clod, a country- man, addressing Gettings, a citizen, in Shirley’s Contention for Honour and Riches, t says, “ Thou liest, and I am none of thy countryman ; I was born out of the sound of your pancake-bell,” i. e. the Apprentices’ Shrove Tuesday bell, when pancakes were in request, (as they still are), and the London apprentices held a riotous holiday. Pope has confirmed the reputation of these hells in a celebrated line : — “ Far as loud Bow’s stupendous bells resound.” The dragon on Bow steeple is almost equally celebrated : — “ Sir D. Dimce. Oh Lord ! here are doings, here are vagaries ! I ’ll run mad. I ’ll climb Bow steeple presently, bestride the dragon, and preach cuckoldom to the whole city.” — Otway , The Soldier’s Fortv/ne , 4to, 1681. “ When Jacob Hall on his high rope shews tricks. The Dragon flutters, the Lord Mayor’s horse kicks ; The Cheapside crowds and pageants scarcely know Which most t’ admire, Hall, hobby-horse, or Bow.” State Poems, vol. iv., p. 379. “ But the adventure at Bow Church was most extraordinary. For being come to the upper row of columns next under the dragon, I could go round between the columns and the newel ; but his [Sir Dudley North’s] corpu- lence would not allow him to do that ; wherefore he took the column in his arm, and swung his body about on the outside, and so he did quite round. Fancy, that in such a case would have destroyed many, had little power over his reason, that told him there was no difficulty nor danger in what he did.” Roger North’s Life of Sir Dudley North , iii. 207, ed. 1826. “ Upon the next public Thanksgiving Day it is my design to sit aside the Dragon on Bow steeple, from whence, after the first discharge of the Tower guns, I intend to mount into the air, fly over Fleet Street, and pitch upon the Maypole in the Strand.” — The Guardian , No. 112. The Court of Arches [see Arches Court] derives its name from the arched vault under Bow Church : “4th Feb., 1662-3. To Bow Church, to the Court of Arches, where a judge sits, and his proctors about him in their habits, and their pleadings all in Latin.” — Pepys. For the origin and use of the balcony overlooking Cheapside, see article on Cheapside. Beaumont and Fletcher’s Works, iv. 186. + Shirley’s Works, vi. 297. MARY (ST.) LE SAVOY. 537 Mary (St.) le Sayoy. The chapel of the hospital of St. John the Baptist, in the Savoy ; a Perpendicular chapel, late and plain, with the exception of the ceiling, which is very rich and coloured. Built 1505. The east end has been ornamented with tabernacle work, of which one niche remains ; but the greater part has been cut away to make places for modern monuments. It is now a precinct or parish church, and called (but improperly) St. Mary-le- Savoy. The altar window, recently glazed at the expense of the congregation, contains the figure of St. John the Baptist. Monuments in it. — Sir Robert and Lady Douglas, (temp. James I.) ; small recumbent figure, with female kneeling figure in the background. — Countess of Dalhousie, daughter of Sir Allen Apsley, Lieutenant of the Tower, and sister to Mrs. Hutchinson, (d. 1663) ; small kneel- ing figure, under part of the ancient tabernacle work. — William Chaworth, (d. 1582), of the Chaworths of Nottingham ; small brass. — Countess Dowager of Nottingham, (d. 1681) ; recum- bent figure. But this monument, it is thought, is improperly named ; the Lady Arabella Nottingham was buried in St. Clement's Domes, Jaff. 16th, 1681-2. — Mrs. Anne Killigrew, (d. 1685) ; Dryden wrote a poem on her death ; tablet. — Sir Richard and Lady Rokeby, (d. 1523) ; altar-tomb, engraved by J. T. Smith. — Nazareth Coppin, (d. 1592) ; small kneeling figure, above Mrs. Killigrew’s monument. — Alicia Steward, (d. 1572) ; small kneeling figure, over door, with skull in her hand, and inscription too high to be deciphered ; engraved by J. T. Smith. — Gawain Douglas, Bishop of Dunkeld, (d. 1522), the translator of Virgil ; brass, on floor, about 3 feet south of the stove in the centre of the chapel. — Dr. Cameron, the last person executed on account of the rebellion of 1745 ; monu- ment by M. L. Watson, erected 1846. — Richard Lander, the African traveller, (d. 1834) ; tablet, erected by his widow. Eminent Persons interred here without monuments. — George, third Earl of Cumberland, father of Lady Anne Clifford, (Anne Dorset, Pembroke, and Montgomery) ; died in the Duchy House in 1605; bowels alone buried. — George Wither, the poet, (d. 1667), “between the east door and south end of the church.”* — Lewis de Duras, Earl of Feversham, (d. 1709) ; he commanded King James II. ’s troops at the battle of Sedgemoor. Mary (St.) le Strand, or the New Church in the Strand. Built by James Gibbs, the architect of the church of St. Martin' s-in- the-Fields. First stone laid Feb. 25th, 1714 ; finished Sept. * Wood’s Ath. Ox., ii. 396, ed. 1721. a a 6 538 MARY (ST.) MAGDALEN. 7th, 1717 ; consecrated Jan. 1st, 1723-4.* Here the old Maypole stood. “ Amid that area wide they took their stand, Where the late Maypole once o’erlooked the Strand, But now (so Anne and Piety ordain), A church collects the saints of Drury Lane.” Pope, The Dunciad. “ The new church in the Strand, called St. Mary-le-Strand, was the first building I was employed in after my arrival from Italy, which being situated in a very public place, the Commissioners for building the fifty churches, of which this is one, spared no cost to beautify it. It consists of two orders, in the upper of which the lights are placed ; the wall of the lower, being solid to keep out noises from the street, is adorned with niches. There was at first no steeple designed for this church, only a small campanile or turret ; a bell was to have been over the west end of it ; but at the distance of eighty feet from the west front there was a column 250 feet high, intended to be erected in honour of Queen Anne, on the top of which her statue was to be placed. My design for this column was approved by the Commissioners, and a great quantity of stone was brought to the place for laying the foundation of it, but the thoughts of erecting that monument being laid aside upon the Queen’s death, I was ordered to erect a steeple instead of the campanile first proposed. The building being then advanced twenty feet above ground, and therefore admitting of no alteration from east to west, I was obliged to spread it from north to south, which makes the plan oblong which should otherwise have been square.” — Gibbs. “ He [the Tory Fox Hunter] owned to me that he looked with horror on the new church that is half-built in the Strand, as taking it at first sight to be half demolished : but upon enquiring of the workmen, was agreeably surprised to find, that instead of pulling it down, they were building it up, and that fifty more were raising in other parts of the town.” — Addison , The Free- holder , No. 47. In the interior is a tablet to James Bindley, the great book- collector. There are no galleries ; the ceiling is highly ornamented. Mary (St.) Magdalen, Bermondsey. Erected 1680, on the site of an older foundation, built by the priors of Bermondsey Abbey for the use of their tenants ; and, at the dissolution of religious houses, converted into a parish church. The register records the singular ceremony observed at the re-union of a man and his wife, after a long absence, during which the woman had married another husband. The man’s name was Ralph Good- child, and the re-marriage took place Aug. 1st, 1604. The form was as follows : — “ The Man's speech. — Elizabeth, my beloved wife, I am right sorie I have so longe absented mysealfe from thee, whereby thou shouldest be occasioned to take another man to be thy husband. Therefore I do now vowe and pro- mise, in the sighte of God and this companie, to take thee againe as mine own, and will not onlie forgive thee, but also dwell with thee, and do all other duties unto thee, as I promised at our marriage. * Parish Clerks’ Survey, p. 286. MARY (ST.) MATFELON. 539 “ The Woman's speech. — Ralphe, my beloved husband, I am right sorie that I have, in thy absence, taken another man to be my husband ; but here,' before God and this companie, I do renounce and forsake him, and do promise to kepe mysealfe only unto thee during life, and to performe all duties which I first promised unto thee in our marriage.” Mary (St.) Magdalen, Milk Street. A church in Cripplegate Ward, on the site of the City of London School , destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt. Mary (St.) Magdalen, Old Fish Street. A small church in Castle Baynard Ward, destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren. Mary (St.) Magdalen. A chapel or college adjoining Guildhall, towards the east ; built 1368, and rebuilt 1431, in the mayor- alty of John Wells, grocer. At the dissolution of religious houses, it was bought by the mayor and commonalty. Service was performed here weekly when Strype, in 1720, made his additions to Stow. No traces remain. Mary (St.) Matfelon, Whitechapel. “ Now of Whitechapel Church somewhat. This church is as it were a chapel of ease to the parish of Stehinhith [Stepney], and the parson of Stebin- hith hath the gift thereof ; which being first dedicated to the name of God and the Blessed Virgin, is now called St. Mary Matfelon. About the year 1428, the 6th of King Henry VI., a devout widow of that parish had long time cherished and brought up of alms a certain Frenchman or Breton born, which most unkindly and cruelly in a night murdered the said widow sleeping in her bed, and after fled with such jewels and other stuff of hers as he might carry ; but he was so freshly pursued, that for fear, he took the church of St. George in Southwark, and challenged the privilege of sanctuary there, and so abjured the King’s land. Then the constables (having charge of him) brought him into London, intending to have conveyed him eastward, but so soon as he was come into the parish, where before he had committed the murder, the wives cast upon him so much filth and odour of the street, that (notwithstanding the best resistance made by the constables) they slew him out of hand ; and for this feat, it hath been said, that parish to have purchased that name of St. Mary Matfelon ; but I find in record the same to be called Villa beatseMarise de Matfellon, in the 21st of Richard II.” — Stow, p. 157. The register records the burial, in the churchyard, June 21st, 1649, of Richard Brandon, a ragman in Rosemary -lane, and against the entry is the following memorandum, in a contem- porary hand : — “This R. Brandon is supposed to have cut off the head of Charles the First.”* Parker, the leader of the mutiny at the Nore, for which he was hanged, was buried, (1797), at his widow’s expense, in the vaults of this church. Mary (St.) Mounthaunt. A church in the ward of Queenhithe, destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt. It was a small * See Ellis’s Letters, iii. 42. 540 MARY (ST.) WOOLNOTH. church, and first built for a chapel to a house on Old Fish- street-hill, inhabited by the Mounthaunts of Norfolk, and after- wards the inn or lodging of the bishops of Hereford. The church of St. Mary Somerset is the church of the parish of St, Mary Mounthaunt. Mary (St.) Oyeries. [ See St. Saviours, Southwark.] Mary (St.) Rouncival, by Charing Cross. A cell to the priory and convent of Rounciyall, in Navarre, (Roncesvalles). It was suppressed at the dissolution of religious houses, and the site covered with tenements. Mary (St.) Somerset. A church in the ward of Queenhithe, in Thames-street, corner of Old Fish-street-hill ; destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren. te St. Mary Summerset, over against the Broken Wharf, is a proper church, but the monuments are all defaced. I think the same to be of old time called Summers hith, of some man’s name that was owner of the ground near adjoining, as Edred’s hithe was so called of Edred, owner thereof, and thence called Queenhithe, as pertaining to the Queen, &c.” — Stow, p. 1 33. Mary (St.) Staining. A church in Aldersgate Ward, destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt. It stood in Staining -lane, Mary (St.) Woolchurch Haw. A church in Walbrook Ward, (on the site of part of the present Mansion-house), destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt, but united to St. Mary Woolnoth. “ Next unto this Stocks [Market] is the parish church of St. Mary Wool- church, so called of a beam placed in the churchyard, which was thereof called Woolchurch Haw, of the tonnage or weighing of wool there used ; and to verify this, I find amongst the Customs of London, written in French in the reign of Edward II., a chapter entitled Les Customes de Wolchurch Haw, wherein is set down what was there to he paid for every parcel of wool weighed.” — Stow, p. 85. Mary (St.) Woolnoth, Lombard Street. A church in Langbourne Ward ; designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor, (d. 1736), the “domestic clerk ” and assistant of Sir Christopher Wren, and built in 1716, on the site of an old church of the same name, “the reason of which name,” says Stow, “I have not yet learnt.”* Observe. — Tablet to the Rev. John Newton, (Cowper’s friend), reptor of this church for a period of twenty-eight years, (d. 1807). It is thus inscribed : — “ John Newton, clerk, once an infidel and libertine, a servant of slaves in Africa, was, by the rich mercy of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ, pre- served, restored, pardoned, and appointed to preach the faith he had long laboured to destroy.” This is the best of Hawksmoor’s churches, and lias been much admired. The exterior is bold, and at least original ; the * Stow, p. 77. MARYLEBONE. 541 interior effective and well-proportioned. For other churches designed by this architect in London, see Christ Church , Spital- fields ; St. Anne's, TAmehouse ; and St. George's , Bloomsbury. Simon Eyre, the founder of Leadenhall-market, was buried in the old church of St. Mary Woolnoth, in 1459. Marylebone. A manor and parish in the hundred of Ossulston, in Middlesex, celebrated in former times for its park, bowling- green, and gardens. It was anciently called Tyburn , from its situation near a small bourn or rivulet of that name, (known in records as Aye-brook or Eye-brook), and acquired its present name from the church of St. Mary-le-Bourne, (St. Mary-on-the- Brook), now corruptly written Marylebone or Marybone. The parish church is still called St. Marylebone. “Next unto this [the Brane or Brent] is Mariburne rill, on the other side which cometh in by St. James’s.” — Harrison's Bescnp. of England, (Holin- shed, p. 50, ed. 1586). In the year 1544, Thomas Hobson, the then lord of the manor of Marylebone, exchanged it with Henry VIII. for certain church lands recently annexed to the Crown. From Edward Forset, Esq., to whom it was sold by James I., it passed by intermarriage into the hands of Thomas Austen, Esq.; and from the Austen family it was purchased in 1710 by John Holies, Duke of Newcastle, whose only daughter and heir married Edward Harley, Earl of Oxford and Mortimer. The purchase money was 17,500Z. ; the rental then 90(F. per annum! The manor is now the property of the Duke of Portland, by the marriage, in 1734, of the Lady Margaret Cavendish Harley (only daughter and heir to Edward, Earl of Oxford and Mortimer) to William Bentinck, second Duke of Portland. The manor-house, which stood on the site of Devonshire-mews, Devonshire-street, New Road, was pulled down in 1791.* When the manor was granted by James I. to Edward Forset, he reserved the park in his own hands ; and Charles I., in 1646, assigned it as a security for a debt for arms and ammunition supplied to him during his troubles. Cromwell set the assign- ment aside, and sold the park to John Spencer, of London, gentleman, for the sum of 13,215£. 6s. 8 d., including 13(F. for the deer,f (124 in number, of several sorts), and 1774Z. 8s. for the timber, exclusive of 2976 tons marked for the navy. * There are four drawings of it, by M. A. Rooker, in the Crowle Pennant in the British Museum. 4 In the Board of Works Accounts for the year 1582, I observe a payment “ for making of two new standings in Marebone and Hide Parkes for the Queenes Majestie and the noblemen of Fraunce to see the huntinge.” 542 MARYLEBONE. At the Restoration the original assignment of Charles I. was held good, and the park, till such time as the debt was liquidated, assigned by the King to the original grantees. A variety of leases were subsequently granted by the Crown, the last lessees being the Duke of Portland and Jacob Hinde, Esq. from whom Hinde-street, Manchester-square, derives its name. These leases expired during the Regency of George IV., when Marylebone Park began to be laid out as we now see it, and called by its new name of the Regent's Park. Behind the manor- house, on what is now Beaumont-street, part of Devonshire- street, and part of Devonshire-place, stood the celebrated gardens and bowling-green frequented by Sheffield, Duke of Buckingham, (d. 1721). Lady Mary Wortley alludes to his Grace’s fondness for this place. 44 Some Dukes at Marybone bowl time away.” 44 After I have dined (either agreeably with friends, or at worst with better company than your country neighbours), I drive away to a place of air and exercise, which some constitutions are in absolute need of; agitation of the body and diversion of the mind, being a composition for health above all the skill of Hippocrates.” — Sheffield , Duke of Buckingham , ( Works, ii. 256).* Here, at the end of the season, as Quin told Pennant, the duke gave a dinner to the chief frequenters of the place, drinking the toast which he thought appropriate, “ May as many of us as remain unhanged next spring meet here again.” “ 7th May, 1668. Then we abroad to Marrowbone, and there walked in the garden, the first time I ever was there, and a pretty place it is.” — Pepys. 44 Both Hockley Hole and Marybone The combats of my dog have known.” — Gay’s Fables. 44 Peachum. The Captain keeps too good company ever to grow rich. Mary-bone and the chocolate-houses are his undoing.” — Gay, The Beggar’s Opera. 44 Mrs. Peachum. You should go to Hockley-in-the-Hole and to Mary- bone, child, to learn valour.” — Ibid. 44 Macheath. There will be deep play to night at Marybone, and conse- quently money may be pick’d up upon the road. Meet me there, and I ’ll give you the hint who is worth setting.” — Ibid. Marylebone Gardens, after experiencing the caprice of public taste as much as Ranelagli and Vauxhall, were finally closed in 1777-8. The parliamentary borough of Marylebone consists of three parishes, St. Marylebone, Paddington, and St. Pancras. Marylebone Lane. The old footway through the fields from Brook-field (now Brook-street) to Marylebone Manor-house and Park. It is now built on each side, and runs from Oxford- street past Marylebone Old Church into the New Road. * The duke adds in a note that the place was Marybone. MAY FAIR. 543 Marylebone Street, Regent Street. Built circ. 1679,* and so called because it led from Hedge-lane (now Whitcomb-street) to Marylebone, — in the same way that Tyburn-lane (now Park- lane) led from Hyde Park Corner to Tyburn. Matthew’s (St.), Friday Street. A church in Farringdon Ward Within, destroyed in the Great Fire, rebuilt by Wren, and opened Nov. 29th, 1685. The east end is distinguished by a series of six circular-headed windows. The tower is brick. Henry Burton, (d. 1 648), the associate in the pillory of Prynne and Bastwick, was rector of this church. The offence for which he was set there was for preaching in this church, and afterwards printing the sum or matter, of two sermons “for God and the King.” On the north wall is a tablet to Michael Lort, D.D., twelve years Professor of the Greek lan- guage at the University of Cambridge, and nineteen years rector of this parish, (d. 1790). The register abounds in entries relating to the family of Sir Hugh Myddelton, who brought the New River into London. May’s Buildings, St. Martin’s Lane. Built in 1739, and so called after May the builder, who lived in No. 43. t May Fair. A fashionable locality between Piccadilly and South Audley-street, and so called from SL James 's Fair held yearly in the month of May, in the field called Brook-field, on the site of what is now Curzon-street, Hertford-street, and Chester- field House. Much of the ground was built upon in 1704, when certain individuals, living in a place called May Fair, are rated for the first time to the poor of the parish of St. Martin ’s- in-the-Fields. In the same books, under the year 1708, is the following entry : — “ Mr. Sheppard, for ground-rent of the Faire, market and one house, \l. Is.” From this Sheppard — Shepherd’s Market, May Fair, derives its name. | The fair of 1708 was the last for several years; but it subsequently revived, and was not finally abolished till the reign of George III., when George, sixth Earl of Coventry, (d. 1809), then a resident in Piccadilly , disturbed with the riots and uproar of the place, procured its abolition. Of the revived May Fair there is an account in Hone’s Every Day Book, i. 572. “ I wish you had keen at May Fair, where the rope dancing would have recompensed your labour. All the nobility in town were there, and I am sure * Rate-books of St. Martin’s. d* Smith’s Nollekens. + In the year 1709, a rate is paid to the poor by “Christopher Reeves for the playhouse in the Fair.” 544 MAY FAIR. even you, at your years, must have had your youthful wishes, to have beheld the beauty, shape, and activity of Lady Mary when she danced. Pray ask my Lord Fairfax after her, who, though not the only lord by twenty, was every night an admirer of her while the fair lasted. There was the city of Amster- dam, well worth your seeing ; every street, every individual house was carved in wood, in exact proportion one to another ; the Stadthouse was as big as your hand ; the whole, though an irregular figure, yet that you may guess, about ten yards diameter. Here was a boy to he seen, that within one of his eyes had deus meus in capital letters, as gulielmus is on half-a-crown, round the other he had a Hebrew inscription, hut this you must take as I did, upon trust. I am now drinking your health at Lockett’s, therefore do me justice in Yorkshire.” — Letter of Brian Fairfax , dated 1701 , in Nichols's Tatler , i. 418. (i Advices from the upper end of Piccadilly say that May Fair is utterly abolished, and we hear Mr. Pinkethman has removed his ingenious company of strollers to Greenwich.” — The Tatler , April 18 th, 1709, No. 4. “Yet that fair [May Fair] is now broke, as well as the Theatre is breaking, but it is allowed still to sell animals there. Therefore if any lady or gentle- man have occasion for a tame elephant, let them enquire of Mr. Pinkethman, who has one to dispose of at a reasonable rate. The downfall of May Fair has quite sunk the price of this noble creature.” — The Tatler , No. 20. “ Between St. James’s and Hyde Park is kept May Fair, yearly, where young people did use to resort, and by the temptation they met with here, did commit much sin and disorder. Here they spent their time and money in drunkenness, fornication, gaming, and lewdness, whereby were occasioned often- times quarrels, tumults, and shedding of blood. Whereupon, in the month of November, 1708, the grand jury of Westminster, for the body of the county of Middlesex, made a presentment to this import, ‘ That being sensible of their duty, to make presentment of such matters and things as were public enormities and inconveniences, and being encouraged by the example of the worthy magistracy of the City of London in their late proceedings against Bartholomew Fair, did present, as a public nuisance and inconvenience, the yearly riotous and tumultuous assembly in a place called Brookfield, in the parish of St. Martin-in-the-Fields, called May Fair. In which place many loose, idle, and disorderly persons, did rendezvous, draw, and allure young persons, servants and others, to meet there to game and commit lewdness, &c.’ ” — Strype, B. vi., p. 4, ed. 1720. Opposite “May Fair Chapel,” or “Curzon Chapel,” and within ten yards of it, stood “Keith’s Chapel,” the chapel of the Rev. Alexander Keith, whose conduct subjected him to eccle- siastical censure, and in the month of October, 1742, to a public excommunication. Careless of character, and indifferent about all objects but money and notoriety, he excommunicated in return the bishop of the diocese; Dr. Andrews, the judge; and Dr. Trebeck, the rector of St. George’s, Hanover-square. In one of his advertisements he describes the position of his chapel:— “ We are informed that Mrs. Keith’s corpse was removed from her husband’s house in May Fair, the middle of October last, to an apothecary’s in South Audley Street, where she lies in a room hung with mourning, and is to con- tinue there till Mr. Keith can attend her funeral. The way to Mr. Keith’s MAYPOLE (THE). 545 chapel is through Piccadilly, by the end of St. James’s Street, and down Clarges Street, and turn on the left hand. The marriages (together with a licence on a five shilling stamp and certificate) are carried on for a guinea, as usual, any time till four in the afternoon, by another regular clergyman, at Mr. Keith’s little chapel in May Fair, near Hyde Park Corner, opposite the great chapel, and within ten yards of it ; there is a porch at the door like a country church porch.” — Daily Advertiser, Ja/n. 2%rd, 1750. In this chapel James, fourth duke of Hamilton, was married to the youngest of the beautiful Miss Gunnings, “with a ring of the bed curtain, half an hour after twelve at night.”* This was in 1752, and in 1754 the Marriage Act put an end to Keith’s vocation. Maypole (The), in the Strand, stood on the site of the present church of St. Mary -le- Strand. “ Where’s Troy, and where’s the Maypole in the Strand?” Bramston's Man of Taste. “ I cannot omit to mention any new thing that comes up amongst us, though never so trivial : here [1634] is one Captain Bailey he hath been a sea captain, hut now lives on the land about this city, where he tries experi- ments. He hath erected, according to his ability, some four hackney-coaches, put his men in livery, and appointed them to stand at the Maypole in the Strand, giving them instructions at what rates to carry men into several parts of the town, where all day they may he had. Other hackney-men seeing this way, they flocked to the same place, and perform their journeys at the same rate ; so that sometimes there is twenty of them together, which disperse up and down, that they and others are to be had everywhere, as watermen are to he had by the water-side. Everybody is much pleased with it. For whereas before coaches could not he had but at great rates, now a man may have one much cheaper.” — Garrard to the Earl of Strafford, vol. i., p. 227. See Temple.] Eminent Members. — Plowden; Sir Walter Raleigh, (he dates his poem to Gascoigne from the Middle Temple) ; Sir Thomas Overbury ; Sir John Davies, the poet ; John Ford, the dramatist, (admitted Nov. 16th, 1602) ; Lord Chancellor Clarendon, (admitted in 1625, when his uncle, Sir Nicholas Hyde, was treasurer) ; Bulstrode Whitelocke ; Ireton, (Cromwell’s son-in-law) ; Evelyn, (admitted Feb. 13th, 1636) ; Lord Keeper Guildford, (admitted Nov. 27th, 1655) ; Lord Chancellor Somers ; Wycherley; Shadwell ; Congreve ; South- erne ; R. B. Sheridan ; Edmund Burke, (admitted April 3rd, 1747) ; Sir William Blackstone ; Lord Chancellor Eldon ; Lord Stowell. Middle Temple Gate, in Fleet Street, a few yards east of Temple-bar. A heavy red-brick front with stone dressings, built in 1684, by Sir Christopher Wren, in place of the old portal which Sir Amias Paulet, while Wolsey’s prisoner in the gate-house of the Temple, 44 had re-edified very sumptuously, garnishing the same,” says Cavendish, 44 on the outside thereof, with cardinal’s hats and arms, and divers other devices, in so glorious a sort, that he thought thereby to have appeased his old unkind displeasure.” “ He [Wolsey] layed a fine upon Sir Amias to build the gate of the Middle Temple ; the arms of Pawlet with the quarterings are in glass there to this day [1680]. The Cardinally armes were, as the storie sayes, on the outside in stone, but time has long since defaced that, only you may still discerne the place; it was carv’d in a very mouldering stone.” — Aubrey’s Lives , iii. 588. Middle Temple Hall was built in 1572, while Plowden, the well-known jurist, was treasurer of the Inn. The roof is the best piece of Elizabethan architecture in London, and will well repay inspection. The screen, in the Renaissance style, is said to have been formed in exact imitation of the Strand front of old Somerset House, but this is a vulgar error, like the tradition which relates that it was made of the spoils of the Spanish Armada, the records of the Society proving that it was set up thirteen years before the Armada put to sea. Observe. — Busts of Lords Eldon and Stowell, by Behnes. The portraits are chiefly copies, and not good. The exterior was cased with stone, in wretched taste, in 1757. We first hear of Shakspeare’s 556 MILDRED’S (ST.), BREAD STREET. Twelfth Night in connexion with this fine old Hall, a student of the Middle Temple, of the name of Manningham, making the following entry in his Diary : — “Feb. 2, 1601. [1601-2], At our feast we had a play called Twelve Night or what you will. Much like the Comedy of Errors ; or Menechmi in Plautus ; hut most like and neere to that in Italian, called Inganni. A good practice in it to make the steward believe his lady widdowe was in love with him, by counterfayting a letter as from his lady, in generall termes, telling him what she liked best in him, and prescribing his gesture in smiling, his apparaille &c. ; and then when he came to practise, making him believe they took him to be mad.” — Harl. MS. quoted in Collier’s SkaJcspeare, vol. iii., p. 317. Sir John Davies, the poet, whose Nosce Teipsum forms one of the glories of Queen Elizabeth’s reign, was expelled the Society of the Middle Temple for thrashing his friend, Mr. Richard Martin, also a member of the Inn, during dinner time, in the Middle Temple Hall. Davies was afterwards, on proper submission, re-admitted, and Martin is still remembered, not by his thrash- ing, hut by Ben Jonson’s noble dedication to him of his Poetaster. It deserves to be mentioned, in illustration of the revels at Christmas, which used to he held in the halls of the Inns of Court, that in taking up the floor of the Middle Temple Hall, about the year 1764, near one hundred pair of dice were found, which had dropt, on different occasions, through the chinks or joints of the hoards. The dice were very small, at least one-third less than those now in use. “ Prince Henry. Jack, meet me to-morrow in the Temple Hall.” Shalcspeare , First Part of Henry IV., Act iii., sc. 3. “ On Wensday the 23 of Febru. 1635, the Prince d’ Amours gave a masque to the Prince Elector and his brother, in the Middle Temple, wher the Queene [Henrietta Maria] was pleasd to grace the entertaynment by putting of [off] majesty to putt on a citizen’s habitt, and to sett upon the scaffold on the right hand amongst her subjects.” — Sir H. Herbert, (Shale, by Boswell , iii. 237). u Manly. I hate this place [Westminster Hall] worse than a man that has inherited a Chancery Suit. “ Freeman. Methinks ’tis like one of their halls in Christmas time, whither from all parts fools bring their money to try by the dice (not the worst judges) whether it shall be their own or no.” — Wycherley, The Plain Dealer, 4to, 1676. Middle Temple Lane. A narrow lane leading from Fleet-street to the Thames. Elias Ashmole, the antiquary, had chambers in this lane. Mildred’s (St.), in Bread Street. A church in Bread-street Ward, destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren. The interior is good, and in point of construction deserves a careful examination by the architectural student. The pulpit and sounding hoard are perhaps by Grinling Gibbons. MILE END. 557 Mildred’s (St.), in the Poultry. A church in the ward of Cheap, destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren. In the old church was buried Thomas Tusser, (d. 1580), author of Five Hundred Points of Good Husbandry. His monument, with his epitaph in English verse, was destroyed in the Great Fire. Bishop Hoadly held the lectureship of St. Mildred’s in the Poultry for nearly ten years. Miles’s Coffee House, New Palace Yard, Westminster. 44 That ingeniose tractat [Harrington’s Oceana] together with his and H. Nevill’s smart discourses and inculcations, dayly at Coffee-houses, made many Proselytes. In so much that A 0, 1659, the beginning of Michaelmas time, he [Harrington] had every night a meeting at the (then) Turke’s head in the New Palace Yard, where they take water, the next house to the staires, at one Miles’s, where was made purposely a large ovall-table, with a passage in the middle for Miles to deliver his Coffee. About it sate his disciples and the virtuosi. The discourses in this kind were the most ingeniose and smart, that ever I heard or expect to heare, and lauded with great eagerness : the arguments in the Pari, house were hut flatt to it Here we had (very formally) a ballotting box, and ballotted how things should he carried by way of Tentamens. The room was every evening full as it could be crammed Mr. Cyriack Skinner, an ingeniose young gent. scholar to Jo. Milton, was Chaire-man.” — Aubrey's Lives, iii. 371. Mile End, Whitechapel. “ The common near London,” where, says Gerard in his Herbal,* penny-royal grows in great abundance. It was “so called,” says Strype, “from its distance from the middle parts of London.” t 44 And Richard Somere was beheaded at the Milende ” [4th of Rich. II.]. Chronicle of London , written in the 1 5th Cent., (Nicolas, p. 73). 44 Shallow. I remember at Mile-end Green (when I lay at Clement’s Inn) I was then Sir Dagonet in Arthur’s Show, there was a little quiver fellow, and he would manage you his piece thus ; and he would about and about, and come you in and come you in : 4 rah, tah, tah,’ would he say; 4 bounce’ would he say ; and away again would he go, and again would he come. — I shall never see such a fellow.” — Shakspeare, Second Part of Henry IV., Act iii., sc. 2. 44 Mistress Merrythought. Come, Michael ; art thou not weary, boy ? Michael. No forsooth, mother, not I. Mist. Mer. Where be we now, child ? Michael. Indeed, forsooth, mother, I cannot tell, unless we be at Mile- End. Is not all the world Mile-End, mother ? Mist. Mer. No, Michael, not all the world, boy ; but I can assure thee, Michael, Mile-End is a goodly matter.” — Beaumont and Fletcher, The Knight of the Burning Pestle. 44 Frank. Cripple, thou once didst promise me thy love, When I did rescue thee on Mile-End-Green.” T. Hey wood. The Fair Maid of the Bxchomge, 4to, 1607. 44 Brainworm. He will hate the musters at Mile-End for it to his dying day.” — Ben Jonson, Every Man in his Humour. * Gerard’s Herbal, p. 546, fol. 1597. f Strvpe, B. iv., p. 48. 558 MILLBANK. “ Formal . But to hear the manner of your services, and your devices in the wars ; they say they be very strange, and not like those a man reads in the Roman histories or sees at Mile-End,” — Ben Jonson, Every Mem in his Humour . “Being past White-chappel and having left fair London multitudes of Londoners left not me ; eyther to keepe a custome which many holde, that Mile-End is no walke without a recreation at Stratford Bow with cream and cakes, or else for love they heare toward me, or perhaps to make themselves merry if I should chance (as many thought) to give over my Morrice within a Mile of Mile-End.” — Kemp’s Nine Daies ’ Wonder, 4to, 1600. Milford Lane, Strand. “ Next is Milford Lane down to the Thames, hut why so called I have not read as yet.” — Stow , p. 165. “ Behold that narrow street which steep descends, Whose building to the slimy shore extends ; Here Arundel’s fam’d structure rear’d its frame, The street alone retains an empty name. There Essex’ stately pile adorn’d the shore, There Cecil, Bedford, Villiers — now no more.” — Gay, Trivia. A poem by Henry Savill, commonly attributed to the witty Earl of Dorset, beginning — “ In Milford Lane near to St. Clement’s Steeple,” has given the lane an unwelcome notoriety.* Millbank, Westminster. “ The Mill- Bank, a very long place, which beginneth by Lindsey House, or rather by the Old Palace Yard, and runneth up into Peterborough House which is the farthest house. The part from against College Street unto the Horseferry, hath a good row of buildings on the east side next to the Thames, which is most taken up with large woodmongers’ yards and brewhouses ; and here is a waterhouse which sheweth this end of the town : the north side is hut ordinary, except one or two houses by the end of College Street ; and that part beyond the Horseferry, hath a very good row of houses, much inhabited by gentry, by reason of the pleasant situation and prospect of the Thames. The Earl of Peterborough’s house hath a large court-yard before it, and a fine garden behind it ; but its situation is but bleak in the winter, and not over healthful, as being so near the low meadows on the south and west parts.” — Strype, B. vi., p. 66. “ Millbank, the last dwelling in Westminster, is a large house which took its name from a mill which once occupied its site. Here in my boyish days I often experienced the hospitality of the late Sir Robert Grosvenor, its worthy owner, by an ancestor of whom it was purchased from the Mordaunts, Earls of Peterborough. I find in the plan of London by Hollar, a mansion on this spot, under the name of Peterborough House. It probably was built by the first Earl of Peterborough. It was inhabited by his successors and retained its name till the time of the death of that great but irregular genius, Charles Earl of Peterborough, in 1735. It was rebuilt in its present form by the Grosvenor family.” — Pennant, p. 80. This is not strictly true, but I am unable to correct it. In Dryden’s Misc. Poems, iv. 275, ed. 1727. MILITARY GARDEN. 559 1708 it was in the possession of Mr. Bull, a merchant.* It was taken down in 1809. There is a view of it in Wilkinson. The new church, near Vauxhall Bridge, was built at the expense of the Rev. W. H. E. Bentinck, one of the canons residentiary of Westminster. Millbank Prison. A mass of brickwork equal to a fortress, on the left bank of the Thames, close to Vauxhall Bridge ; erected pursuant to 52 Geo. III., c. 44, passed Aug. 20th, 1812. It is said to have cost the enormous sum of half a million sterling. The external walls form an irregular octagon, and enclose I ( > upwards of eighteen acres of land. Its ground-plan resembles a wheel, the governor’s house occupying a circle in the centre, from which radiate six piles of building, terminating externally in towers. The ground on which it stands is raised but little above the river, and was at one time considered unhealthy. It was first named “ The Penitentiary,” or “ Penitentiary House for London and Middlesex,” and was called “ The Millbank Prison” pursuant to 6 & 7 Victoria, c. 26. Every male and female convict sentenced to transportation in Great Britain is sent to Millbank previous to the sentence being executed. Here they remain about three months under the close inspection of the three inspectors of the prison, at the end of which time the inspectors report to the Home Secretary, and recommend the place of transportation. So far as the accommodation of the prison permits, the separate system is adopted. Admission to inspect — by order from the Secretary of State for the Home Department, or the Inspector of Prisons. Military Garden. “ In Bagford’s Collection was a view of London published by Norden in 1603, at bottom a representation of the Lord Mayor’s Show with variety of habits. In the same person’s possession Yertue saw another plan of London by T. Porter in which he observed these particulars : at the upper end of the Haymarket was a square building called Piccadilla-hall ; at the end of Coventry Street, a gaming house, afterwards the mansion and garden of Lord Keeper [Mr. Secretary] Coventry ; and where Gerard Street is was an Artillery Ground or Military Garden made by Prince Henry.” — Walpole , ed. DdUaway , v. 60. “ London and "Westminster are two twin-sister cities, as joyned by one street, so watered by one stream ; the first a breeder of grave magistrates, tbe second, the burial-place of great monarehs ; both famous for their two Cathe- drals ; the one dedicated to the honour of St. Paul, the other of Saint Peter. These I rather concatenate, because as in the one, the right honourable the Lord Maior receiveth his honour, so in the other he takes his oath ; yet London may be presumed to be the Elder, and more excellent in birth, meanes and issue ; in the first for her antiquity, in the second for her ability, * Hatton’s New View of London, p. 632, 8vo, 1708. 560 MINORIES (THE). in the third for her numerous progeny ; she and her suburbs being decored with two several Burses or Exchanges, and beautified with two eminent gardens of exercise, knowne by the names of Artillery and Military. 5 * — Porta Pietatis , Joy T. Hey wood, 1633 . I observed in the rate-books of the parish of St. Martin’s-in- the-Fields, for the year 1627, that what we call Leicester -fields, or Square , is called Military-street. The Earl of Sterling, the poet, was living in Military-street in 1632, and the Earls of Leicester and Newport in Military-street in 1635.* Milk Street, Cheapside, in the ward of Cripplegate. “ So called of milk sold here.”! Sir Thomas More was born in this street; 4 4 the brightest star,” says Fuller, “that ever shone in that Via Lactea.” Here, on the east side, is the City of London School. Mill Lane, Southwark. So called from the mill of the Abbot of Battle. X Milton Street, Moorfields. [See Grub Street.] Mincing Lane, Tower Street, City. “ So called of tenements there some time pertaining to the Mincnuns or nuns of St. Helen’s in Bishopsgate Street In this lane of old time dwelt divers strangers, horn of Genoa and those parts; these were commonly called Galley-men, as men that came up in the galleys, brought up wines and other merchandizes which they landed in Thames Street at a place called Galley Key; they had a certain coin of silver amongst themselves, which were halfpence of Genoa and were called Galley-halfpence ; these halfpence were forbidden in the 1 3th of Henry IY. and again by parliament in the 4th of Henry V. Notwithstanding in my youth I have seen them pass current, hut with some difficulty, for that the English halfpence were then, though not so broad, somewhat thicker and stronger. 55 — Stow, p. 50. Eminent Residents in. — Sir John Robinson, Lieutenant of the Tower, and Lord Mayor of London ; § there is a good deal about him in Mrs. Hutchinson’s Memoirs. Alderman Beckford, the father of the author of Vathek. Observe. — Clothworkers ’ Hall , on the east side, next No. 40. Minories (The). A street between Aldgate and the Tower, inhabited at one time by gunsmiths, and so called from “ An abbey of nuns of the order of St. Clare called the Minories, founded by Edmond Earl of Lancaster, Leicester and Derby, brother to King Edward III. in the year 1293; — surrendered by Dame Elizabeth Salvage the last abbess there unto King Henry VIII. in the 30th of his reign, the year of Christ 1539 In place of this house of nuns is now built divers fair and large storehouses for armour and habiliments of war, with divers workhouses serving to the same purpose : there is a small parish church for inhabitants of the close called St. Trinitie’s” [Trinity Church in the Minories], — Stow , p. 48. * Compare Bagford’s account in Harl. MS. 5900, fol. 47. + Stow, p. 110. X Coll. Top. et Gen. viii. 252. § Pepys, i. 174. MINT (THE ROYAL). 561 “ Myself heard William Earl of Pembroke relate with much regret towards him that he [Sir Walter Raleigh’s Lord Cobham] dyed in a room ascended by a ladder, at a poor woman’s house in the Minories, formerly his landress, rather of hunger than any more natural disease.” — Works of Francis Osborn , Esq., p. 381, ed. 1701. “ He who works dully on a story, without moving laughter in a comedy, or raising concernments in a serious play, is no more to he accounted a good poet, than a gunsmith of the Minories is to be compared with the best work- man of the town.” — Dryden, Preface to The Mock Astrologer . The Mulcibers who in the Minories sweat, And massive bars on stubborn anvils heat, Deform’d themselves, yet forge those stays of steel, Which arm Aurelia with a shape to kill.” Congreve to Sir Richard Temple. Here, at the upper end, (corner of Aldgate, High-street), are the showy and extensive shops of Moses and Son, and at the lower end is the Minories Station of the Blackwall Railway. Mint (The Royal), on Tower Hill, originally stood within the Tower. The elevation of the present building was by a Mr. Johnson, and the entrances, Westminster. The centre house (Sir Robert Peel’s) contains a very fine collection of Dutch, Flemish, and English pictures, formed by Sir Robert himself, at a great cost, and with extreme good taste. They ornament the walls of rooms in the daily occupation of the family, and consequently cannot be very often shown to strangers ; nor is it fair to ask a favour which disturbs a comfort so peculiarly dear to Englishmen — the comfort of one’s own fireside. The Dutch andPlemisli Pictures , some 72 in number, consist of 3 by Rembrandt; 2 by Rubens, (the well-known Chapeau de Paille, bought by Sir Robert Peel for 3500 guineas, and the triumph of Silenus, bought for 1100/.) ; 2 by Van Dyck, a Genoese Senator and his wife, bought at Genoa by Sir David Wilkie ; 7 by D. Teniers ; 2 by Isaac Ostade, one a Village Scene, very fine ; 1 by Adrian Ostade ; 1 by Jan Steen ; 1 by Terburg ; 2 by G. Metzu ; 1 by F. Mieris ; 1 by W. Mieris ; 1 by G. Douw, the Poulterer’s Shop, fine ; 3 by Cuyp, one an Old Castle, very fine ; 4 by Hobbima, one very fine, the Ducks and Geese by Wyntrank, and the figures by Lingelback; 2 by De Hooghe ; 1 by Paul Potter ; 3 by Ruysdael ; 2 by Backhuysen ; 1 by Berghem ; 1 by Gonzales Coques ; 3 by Karil du Jardin ; 6 by Wouvermans ; 2 by Vander Heyden ; 3 by A. Vander Velde, one a Calm, very fine ; 8 by W. Vander Velde ; 1 by F. Snyders ; 2 by Wynants ; 1 by Slingelandt ; 1 by Jan. Lingelback ; 1 by Moucheron and A. Vander Velde; 3 by Gaspar Netseher. Portraits by Sir Thomas Lawrence . — • (15 in all, and all painted for Sir R. Peel, next to George IV. the great patron of Lawrence) ; Lady Peel in a hat, companion to Chapeau de Paille ; Miss Peel with a dog ; Duke of Welling- ton, (f. 1.), standing in his military cloak, and holding a tele- scope ; Lord Chancellor Eldon, seated ; Lord Stowell, seated ; Earl of Liverpool, (f. 1.) ; Canning, (f. 1.) in the House of Com- mons, in the act of speaking ; Lord Aberdeen, (three-quarter), standing. Other English Portraits by English Artists. — Head of Dobson, by himself ; Cowley as a Shepherd, by Sir P. Lely ; Nell Gwyn, by Sir P. Lely ; Sir Robert Walpole, by Vander- bank; Rysbrack, the sculptor, by Vanderbank; Dr. Johnson, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, (Mrs. Thrale’s picture) ; Edmund Burke, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; Admiral Keppel, by Reynolds. Subject Pictures by English Artists. — The Snake in the Grass, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, (Lord Carysfort’s picture); Robinetta, by Sir Joshua Reynolds ; John Knox preaching, by Wilkie ; Rustic PUDDING LANE. 681 Interior, by Mulready; The Good Shepherd, by Edwin Landseer ; Miss Eliza Peel with a Spaniel, by Edwin Landseer ; 4 Coast pictures, by Collins, R.A. ; Departure of the Israelites, by D. Roberts, R.A. — 18 very fine Drawings, by Rubens and Van Dyck. — Marble Bust of Sir Walter Scott, by Chantrey. Scott sat for this bust a second time ; the first bust is at Abbotsford, the second at Apsley House ; this is the third. — A few of the Dutch pictures, and many of the English portraits, have, I believe, been sent to Drayton Manor ; Sir Robert Peel, it is understood, like Beaumont and Beckford before him, enjoying art so much, that he wishes to have his pictures with him, both in town and country. Pudding Lane, Monument Yard. “ Then have ye one other lane called Rother Lane or Red Rose Lane, of such a sign there, now commonly called Pudding Lane, because the butchers of Eastcheap have their scalding house for hogs there, and their puddings with other filth of beasts are voided down that way to their dung boats on the Thames. This lane stretcheth from Thames Street to Little East Cheap, chiefly inhabited by basket makers, turners and butchers, and is all of Billingsgate Ward.” — Stow , p. 79. The Fire of London, commonly called the Great Fire, com- menced in this lane, breaking out between one and two in the morning of Sunday, Sept. 2nd, 1666, in the house of Farrvner, the King’s baker, on the east side of the lane. It was the fashion of the True Blue Protestants of the period to attribute the fire to the Roman Catholics, and when, in 1681, Oates and his plot strengthened this belief, the following inscription was affixed on the front of the house which occupied the site of Farryner the baker’s : — “ Here, by the Permission of Heaven, Hell brolce loose upon, this Pro- testant City, from the malicious hearts of barbarous Priests by the hand of their Agent Hubert , who confessed , and on the ruins of this place declared the fact for which he was hanged, viz., That here begun that dreadful Fire which is described and perpetuated on by the neighbouring Pillar . — Erected Anno 1681, in the Mayoralty of Sir Patience Ward, Kt This celebrated inscription, set up pursuant to an order of the Court of Common Council, June 17th, 1681, was removed in the reign of James II., replaced in the reign of William III., and finally taken down, “ on account of the stoppage of passen- gers to read it.” Entick, who made additions to Maitland in 1756, speaks of it as “lately taken away.” The house was “ rebuilt in a very handsome manner.”* No. 25 is believed to have been the house. The inscribed stone is still preserved, it is said, in the cellar of the building. Hubert was a French * Dodsley’s London, v. 232, 8vo, 1761. G G 3 6*82 PUDDING LANE. Papist, of five or six-and-twenty years of age, the son of a watchmaker at Rouen, in Normandy. He was seized in Essex, confessed he had begun the Fire, and persisting in his confession to his death, was hanged, upon no other evidence than that of his own confession. He stated in his examination that he had been “ suborned at Paris to this action,” and that there were “three more combined to do the same thing. They asked him if he knew the place where he had first put fire. He answered he knew it very well, and would show it to anybody.” He was then ordered to he blindfolded, and carried to several places of the City, that he might point out the house. They first led him to a place at some distance from it, opened his eyes, and asked him if that was it, to which he answered, “ No ; it was lower, nearer to the Thames.” “ The house and all which were near it,” says Clarendon, “were so covered and buried in ruins, that the owners themselves, without some infal- lible mark, could very hardly have said where their own houses had stood ; but this man led them directly to the place, described how it stood, the shape of the little yard, the fashion of the door and windows, and where he first put the fire ; and all this with such exactness, that they who had dwelt long near it could not so perfectly have described all particulars.” Til- lotson told Burnet that Howell, the then Recorder of London, accompanied Hubert on this occasion, “ was with him, and had much discourse with him ; and that he concluded it was impos- sible it could be a melancholy dream.” This, however, was not the opinion of the judges who tried him. “ Neither the judges,” says Clarendon, “nor any present at the trial, did believe him guilty, but that he was a poor distracted wretch, weary of his life, and chose to part with it this way.” We may attribute the Fire with safety to another cause than a Roman Catholic conspiracy. We are to remember that the flames originated in the house of a baker: that the season had been unusually dry : that the houses were of wood, overhanging the roadway, (pent-houses they were called), so that the lane was even narrower than it is now, and that a strong east wind was blowing at the time. It was thought very little of at first. Pepys put out his head from his bed-room window, in Seething- lane, a few hours after it broke out, and returned to bed again, as if it were nothing more than an ordinary fire, a common occurrence, and likely to be soon subdued. The Lord Mayor (Sir Thomas Blud worth) seems to have thought as little of it, till it was too late. People appear to have been paralysed, and no attempt of any consequence was made to check its progress. For four successive days it raged and gained ground, leaping PUDDLE DOCK. 683 after a prodigious manner from house to house and street to street, at great distances from one another. Houses were at length pulled down, and the flames, still spreading westward, were at length stopped at the Temple Church , in Fleet-street , and Pie Corner , in Smithfield. In these four days 13,200 houses, 400 streets, and 89 churches, including the cathedral church of St. Paul, were destroyed, and London lay literally in ruins. The loss was so enormous, that we may he said still to suffer from its effects. Yet the advantages were not a few. London was freed from the plague ever after ; and we owe St. Paul’s, St. Brides, St. Stephens, Walbrooh, and all the architectural glories of Sir Christopher Wren, to the desolation it occasioned. Puddle Dock, Blackfriars, in Castle Baynard Ward. u Then a water gate at Puddle Wharf, of one Puddle that kept a wharf on the west side thereof, and now of Puddle water by means of many horses watered there.” — Stow, p. 16 ; see also p. 136. “ Puddle Wharf, Which place we ’ll make hold with to call it our Ahydos, As the Bankside is our Sestos.” Ben Jonson, Bartholomew Fair, Act v. “ H’ had been both friend and foe to crimes ; * * -x -x- * Cartloads of bawds to prison sent For being behind a fortnight’s rent ; And many a trusty pimp and crony To Puddle-dock for want of money.” — Hudibras, Part iii., C. 3. “ Clodpate. Is not this better than anything in that stinking Town [London] ? “ Lucia. Stinking Town ! I had rather be Countess of Puddle-Dock than Queen of Sussex.” — T. Shadwell, Epsom Wells , 4to, 1676. The house which Shakspeare bought in the Blackfriars, and which he bequeaths by will to his daughter, Susannah Hall, is described in the Conveyance as “ abutting upon a streete leading down to Puddle Wharffe on the east part, right-against the King’s Maiestie’s Wardrobe” — “and now or late in the tenure or occupacon of one William Ireland, or of his assignee or assignes.” * There is still an Ireland-yard . “ I gyve will bequeath and devise unto my daughter Susannah Hall . . . all that messuage or tenemente with the appurtenances wherein one John Robinson dwelleth scituat lying and being in the Blackfriars in London neare the Wardrobe.” — Shakspeare’’ s Will. Pulteney Street, Golden Square, was originally called Knaves- acre. t Pump Court, Temple, was so called from the pump in the centre. * Malone’s Inquiry, p. 403. ■f Hatton, p. 66. ^T.LL7ick- ; /i9 /0 QUADRANT. 684 Pye Street, Westminster, At No. 8, in this street, lived Isaac De Groot, the nephew of Hugo Grotius.* “ I have known him many years,” wrote Dr. Johnson. “ He has all the common claims to charity, being old, poor, and infirm, to a great degree. He has likewise another claim, to which no scholar can refuse attention ; he is by several descents the nephew of Hugo Grotius ; of him from whom, perhaps, every man of learning has learnt something.” QUADRANT (The), Regent Street, was built when Regent- street was built, by the late John Nash, the architect of Buckingham Palace. The arcade, which covered the whole footway, (supported by 145 cast-iron pillars), was removed in December, 1848. Thus was sacrificed, without fitting cause, the most beautiful and most original feature in the street archi- tecture of London. The reasons assigned for this removal were, that, though picturesque in itself and of use on a rainy day, it darkened the thoroughfare, lessened the value of the shops, and occasioned other nuisances. Quarter-Master- General’s Office. [See Horse Guards.] Quebec Street, Oxford Street, commemorates the capture of Quebec by General Wolfe, in 1759. Queenhithe, in Upper Thames Street. A common quay for the landing of corn, flour, and other dry goods from the West of England — originally called “ Edred’s hithe ” or bank, from “ Edred, owner thereof” — but known, from a very early period, as Ripa Reginse, the Queen’s bank or Queenhithe, because it pertained unto the Queen. King John is said to have given it to his mother, Eleanor, Queen of Henry II. It was long the rival of Billingsgate, and would have retained the monopoly of the wharfage of London had it been below instead of above bridge. Peele’s chronicle-play of King Edward I. (4to, 1593) contains, among other things, “ Lastly the sinking of Queen Elinor, who sunck at Charing Crosse and rose again at Potters- hith, now named Queenhith.” When accused by King Edward of her crimes, she replies in the words of the old ballad : — “ If that upon so vile a thing Her heart did ever think, She wish’d the ground might open wide, And therein she might sink ! * Bosw T ell by Croker, p. 5 35. QUEENHITHE. 6 85 With that at Charing-cross she sunk Into the ground alive ; And after rose with life again, In London at Queenhith.” It is here written “ Queenhithe,” but our old dramatists almost always write it “ Queenhive.” Stow says nothing about “ Potter’ s-hith.” Beaumont and Fletcher speak of a “ Queen- hithe cold.”* Queenhithe (Ward of). One of the 26 wards of London ; so called from the old part of London of the same name. General Boundaries. — N., Old Fish-street and Trinity -lane ; S., The Thames ; E., Bull-Wharf-lane ; W., Paul’s Wharf, part of St. Peter’ s-hill, and the upper end of Lambert-hill. Stow enume- rates seven parish churches in this ward : — 1. Church of the Holy Trinity in Trinity-lane , (now the Lutheran church) ; 2. St. Nicholas Cold Abbey, in Old Fish-street ; 3. St. Nicholas Olave, Bread-street-hill, (destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt) ; 4. St. Mary de Monte Alto , or Mounthaunt , in Old Fish-street-hill, (destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt) ; 5. St. Michael’s , Queenhithe ; 6. St. Mary Sum?nerset, in Thames- street, facing Broken- wharf ; 7. St. Peter’s , Paul’s Wharf \ (destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt) ; and two Halls of Companies: — 1. Painters- Stainer s’ Hall ; 2. Blacksmiths’ Hall. The principal street in the ward is part of Upper Thames-street. Queen Anne Street, East, Cavendish Square. Fhninent Inhabitants . — Richard Cumberland, in 1770 ; here he wrote his best play, the West Indian. — Malone, the Shakspeare commen- tator, at No. 58, in the year 1800. — Fuseli, the painter, at No. 72, between 1788 and 1792 ; and in 1800, at No. 75. — J. M. W. Turner, It. A., the celebrated landscape-painter, at No. 47. Queen Anne’s Bounty Office, and First Fruits and Tenths’ Office, 3, Great Bean’s Yard, Westminster. Queen Elizabeth’s Grammar School. [ See Tooley Street.] Queen Square, Bloomsbury, was so called out of compliment to Queen Anne, in whose reign it was erected.! Eminent Inha- bitants. — Alderman Barber, the printer, who died here in 1741, (the individual to whom Butler owes a monument in Poets’ Corner). Jonathan Richardson, who died here in 1745 ; — his son, of the same name, who died here in 1770. Br. John * Works, by Dyce, vii. 375. J Hatton, p. 67. 686 QUEEN SQUARE. Campbell, author of The Lives of the Admirals, and editor of the Biographia Britannica. “ Campbell’s residence for some years before bis death was the large new- built house, situate at the north west-corner of Queen-square, Bloomsbury, whither, particularly on a Sunday evening, great numbers of persons of the first eminence for science and literature were accustomed to resort for the enjoyment of conversation.” — Hawkins's Life of Johnson, p. 210. 44 Johnson. I used to go pretty often to Campbell's on a Sunday evening, till I began to consider that the shoals of Scotchmen who flocked about him might probably say, when anything of mine was well done, 4 Ay, ay, he has learnt this of CawmelU ” — Boswell, by Broker, \. 431. The north side of this square “was left open,” it is said, for the sake of the beautiful landscape formed by the hills of Highgate and Hampstead, together with the adjacent fields.”* There are now at least 2 square miles of brick and mortar between it and the view. Queen Square, Westminster. 44 Queen Square, a beautiful new (though small) square of very fine build- ings — on the north side of the Broadway, near Tu thill- street, Westminster, between which and the Broadway is a new street erecting, not yet named. There is also another square of this name designed, at the north end of Devonshire-street, near Red Lion-square.” — Hatton, p. 67, 1708. Strype calls it Queen Anne Square. At the upper end of the square is a standing statue of Queen Anne, without the nose. In a detached dwelling in 44 Queen-square-place,” looking on the garden-ground of Milton’s house in Hetty Hrance , now York - street, Westminster, Jeremy Bentham died, in 1832. Queen Street, Bloomsbury. 44 Queen-street, a pretty considerable street between Castle-street near the market, (southerly) and about the middle of Great Russell-street, (northerly).” — Hatton , p. 67, 1708. George Yertue, the engraver and antiquary, lived in this street. 44 22 July, 1712. Walked to Queen-street, Bloomsbury, to Mr. Vertue’s.” — Thoresby's Diary, ii. 143. Queen Street, Cheapside. “A street,” says Strype, “made since the Great Fire, out of Soper-lane, for a straight passage from the water side to Guildhall.” 44 Some call the north end of this street from Watling-street, Soper-lane.” — Hatton ,p. 67. On the east side is the churchyard of St. Thomas Apostle's, a church destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt. [See Three Cranes in the Vintry.] The bridge at the bottom of this street is called Southwark Bridge. * Dodsley’s Environs, 1761, vol. v., p. 240. QUEEN STREET. 687 Queen Street (Great), Lincoln’s Inn Fields. Built circ. 1629 ; so called after Henrietta Maria, the Queen of Charles I. Howes, in his edition of Stow,* speaks of “ the new fair buildings called Queene’s-street, leading into Drury-lane ; ” and Walpole tells us that many of the houses were built by Webb, Inigo Jones’s scholar. All the good houses were on the south side, looking to the fields beyond St. Pancras. “He [Inigo Jones] built Queen-street, also designed at first for a square, and, as reported, at the charge of the Jesuits; in the middle whereof was left a niche for the statue of Henrietta Maria, and this was the first uniform street, and the houses are stately and magnificent. At the other side of the way, near Little Queen-street, they began after the same manner with flower de lices on the wall, but went no further.” — Bagford, Harl. MS ., 5900, fol. 50 b . Eminent Inhabitants. — Tile great Lord Herbert of Cherbury. “ He dyed [1648] at his house in Queen-street in the parish of St. Giles’s- in-the-Fields, very serenely ; asked what was o’clock, and then, sayd he, an hour hence I shall depart ; he .then turned his head to the other side and expired.” — Aubrey's Lives, \ ol. ii., p. 387. “ God send you joy of your new habitation, for I understand your lordship is removed from the King’s-street to the Queen’s.” — Howell's Letters, p. 342, ed. 1737. Sir Thomas Fairfax, the Parliamentary general, who dates a printed proclamation of the 12th of February, 1648, from Queen-street, London. Heneage Finch, Lord High Chancellor; he was living here when Thomas Sadler stole the mace and purse. \_See Lincoln’s Inn Fields.] Sir Godfrey Kneller. “ In Great Queen-street, Kneller lived next door to Dr. Radcliffe. Kneller 6s%- ■ was fond of flowers, and had a fine collection. As there was great intimacy between him and the physician, he permitted the latter to have a door into his garden, hut Radcliffe’s servants gathering and destroying the flowers, Kneller sent him word he must shut up the door. Radcliffe replied peevishly, ‘ Tell him, he may do anything with it hut paint it.’ — ‘And I,’ answered Sir Godfrey, ‘can take anything from him hut physic.’ ”T — Walpole’s Anecdotes of Painting, (art. Kneller ). Hudson, Sir Joshua Beynolds’s master ; in the houses now numbered 55 and 56, then one house. Hoole, the translator of Ariosto ; in Hudson’s house. The old west-end entrance to this street, taken down in January, 1765, was by a narrow pas- sage, familiarly known as “ The Devil’s Gap.” Queen (Little) Street, Lincoln’s Inn Fields. William, Lord Russell, was led from Holborn into this street, on his way to the scaffold in Lincoln’ s-Inn-fields. * Howes, p. 1048, ed. 1631. 1* Walpole has laid the locality of this story in a wrong place; it belongs to the Piazza, (Kneller’s residence before he removed to Great Queen-street), and to Bow- street, Dr. Radcliffe’s. 688 QUEEN’S ARMS TAVERN. “ As we came to turn into Little Queen-street, he said, ‘ I have often turned to the other hand, with great comfort, but I now turn to this with greater,’ and looked towards his own house ; and then, as the Dean of Canter- bury, [Tillotson] who sat over-against him told me, ‘he saw a tear or two fall from him.’ ” — Bp. Burnet' 's Jowrnal. “His own house,” Southampton House , (subsequently called Bedford House), he inherited through his wife, the virtuous Lady Rachel Russell, the daughter of Charles II. ’s Lord Treasurer, and the grand-daughter of Shakspeare’s Earl of Southampton. No. 7 was the residence of the father and mother of Charles Lamb ; and here it was that Mary Lamb, his sister, murdered their own mother, and threw a gloom, which few till lately understood, over the whole life of the delightful “Elia.” Queen Street (Little), Portland Chapel. No 45 was long the residence of James Watson, the excellent mezzotint engraver of the last century. Here he executed some of his best mezzo- tints, after Sir Joshua Reynolds. Queen’s Arms Tavern, No. 71, Cheapside. The second-floor of the house which stretches over the passage leading to this tavern, was the London lodging of John Keats, the poet. Here he wrote his magnificent sonnet on Chapman’s Homer, and all the poems in his first little volume. Queen’s Arms Tavern, St. Paul’s Churchyard. “ Garrick kept up an interest in the city by appearing, about twice in a winter, at Tom’s Coffee House in Cornhill, the usual rendezvous of young merchants at ’Change time ; and frequented a Club, established for the sake of his company at the Queen’s Arms Tavern in St. Paul’s Churchyard, where were used to assemble Mr. Samuel Sharpe the surgeon, Mr. Paterson the city solicitor, Mr. Draper the bookseller, Mr. Clutterbuck a mercer, and a few others ; they were none of them drinkers, and in order to make a reckoning called only for French wine. These were his standing council in theatrical affairs.” — Hawkins's Life of Johnson , p. 433. Here, after a thirty years’ interval, Johnson renewed his inti- macy with some of the members of his old Ivy-lane club.* Queen ’s Head Alley, Paternoster Row, was so called from an inn or tavern with such a sign, wherein were lodged the canonists and professors of spiritual and ecclesiastical law, before Doctors’ Commons was provided for them, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. [See Doctors’ Commons.] In this alley, in the reign of Charles II., Richard Head, author of The English Rogue, followed the profession of a bookseller.! Queen’s Bench. [See Westminster Hall.] * Boswell by Croker, p. 745. F Winstanley’s Lives of the Poets, p. 208. RAG FAIR. 689 Queen’s Prison, Borough Road, Southwark. Erected pur- suant to 5 & 6 Will. IV., c. 22, and there described as “ The prison of the Marshalsea of the Court of Queen’s Bench ; a prison for debtors, and for persons confined under the sentence or charged with the contempt of her Majesty’s Court of Queen’s Bench.” By this act, the Queen’s Bench , The Fleet , and Mar- shalsea Prisons were consolidated, and called “The Queen’s Prison.” All fees, the liberty of the rules and day rules, were abolished by the same Act. The rules were first granted, it is said, from the crowded state of the prison. “ The Brace Public- house ’ ’ was abolished by the same Act. Queen’s House. Another name for Buckingham House. Queen’s Theatre. [ See Regency Theatre.] jr>AG FAIR, or, Rosemary Lane, Wellclose Square, in the parish of St. Mary, Whitechapel ; “a place near the Tower of London, where old clothes and frippery are sold.”* 44 The articles of commerce by no means helie the name. There is no expressing the poverty of the goods ; nor yet their cheapness. A distinguished merchant engaged with a purchaser, observing me to look on him with great attention, called out to me, as his customer was going off with his bargain, to observe that man, 4 For,’ says he, 4 1 have actually clothed him for fourteen pence.’ ” — Pennant , p. 433. 44 Where wave the tattered ensigns of Rag Fair.” — Pope, The Dunciad. “ Thursday last one Mary Jenkins, who deals in old clothes in Rag Fair, sold a pair of breeches to a poor woman for sevenpence and a pint of beer. Whilst they were drinking it in a public house, the purchaser in unripping the breeches found quilted in the waistband eleven guineas in gold, Queen Anne’s coin, and a thirty pound bank note, dated in 1729, which last she did not know the value of till after she sold it for a gallon of twopenny purl.” — The Public Advertiser, Feb. 14 th, 1756. Rainbow Tayern, No. 15, Fleet Street. A well-conducted and well-frequented tavern, (famous for its stout), and originally established as a coffee-house, as early as the year 1657. 44 When coffee first came in, he [Sir Henry Blount] was a great upholder of it, and hath ever since been a great frequenter of coffee-houses, especially Mr. Farre’s, at the Rainbowe, by Inner Temple gate.” — Aubrey's Lives, ii. 244. 44 1 find it recorded that one James Farr, a barber, who kept the coffee house which is now the Rainbow, by the Inner Temple gate, (one of the first in England) was, in the year 1657, presented by the Inquest of St. Dunstan’s- in-the-West, for making and selling a sort of liquor called coffee, as a great Pope, Note to the Dunciad. 6.90 RAM ALLEY. nuisance and prejudice of the neighbourhood, &c. And who would then have thought that London would ever have 3000 sucb nuisances, and that coffee would have been (as now) so much drunk by the best of quality and physi- cians.” — Hatton’s New Vieio of London, 8vo, 1708. “ I have received a letter desiring me to be very satirical upon the little muff that is now in fashion ; another informs me of a pair of silver garters buckled below the knee, that have been lately seen at the Rainbow Coffee House in Fleet-street.” — The Spectator, No. 16. The Phoenix Fire-office (the second office established in this country for insurance against fire) was originally located at the Rainbow Tavern, in Fleet-street, as early as 1682.* Ram Alley, Fleet Street, over against Fetter-lane, now Hare Court. “ Ram-alley [is] taken up by publick houses ; a place of no great reputation, as being a kind of privileged place for debtors, before the late Act of Parlia- ment [9 & 10 Will. III., c. 27, s. 15] for taking them away. It hath a passage into the Temple and into Serjeants’ Inn in Fleet-street.” — Strype, B. iii., p.277. “ And though Ram-alley stinks with cooks and^ile, Y et say there ’s many a worthy lawyer’s chamber, ’Buts upon Ram-alley.” Ram A lley, or Merry Tricks ; a Comedy , by Lo. Barrey, 4to, 1611, Act i., sc. 1 . “ Come you to seek a virgin in Ram-alley, So near an Inn-of-Court, and amongst cooks, Ale-men and laundresses.” — Ibid., Act. iii., sc. 1. “ Belford, sen. Here ’s Mr. Cheatly shall sham and banter with you, or any one you will bring, for five hundred pound of my money. “ Belford, jun. Rascally stuff, fit for no places but Ram Alley or Pye Corner.” — The Squire of Alsatia, by T. Sliadwell , 4 to, 1688. “ 5 July, 1668. With Sir W. Coventry, and we walked'in the Park toge- ther a good while. He mighty kind to me ; and hear many pretty stories of my Lord Chancellor’s being heretofore made sport of by Peter Talbot, the priest, in his story of the death of Cardinal Bleau ; by Lord Cottington, in his Dolor de las Tripas ; and by Tom Killegrew in his being bred in Ram Ally, and bound prentice to Lord Cottington.” — Pepys. “ The Fire [of London] decreased, having burned all on the Thames side to the new buildings of the Inner Temple, next to Whitefriars, and having consumed them was stopped by that vacancy from proceeding further into that house ; but laid hold on some old buildings which joined to Ram-alley, and swept all those into Fleet-street.” — Lord Clarendon's Autobiography, iii. 90, ed. 1827. Ranelagh. A place of public entertainment, erected (circ. 1740) on the site of the gardens of a villa of Viscount Ranelagh, at Chelsea. The principal room, (the Rotunda), begun in 1741, and opened for public breakfasts on the 5th of April, 1742, was 185 feet in diameter, with an orchestra in the centre, and tiers of boxes all round. The chief amusement was promenading (as it was called) round and round the circular area below, and * Hatton, p. 787. RANELAGH. 691 taking refreshments in the boxes$ while the orchestra executed different pieces of music. It was a kind of “Vauxhall under cover, ’ ’ warmed with coal fires. The rotunda is said to have been projected by Lacy, the patentee of Drury Lane Theatre. The coup d’ceil , Dr. Johnson declared, “ was the finest thing he had ever seen.” The last appearance (if one may use the expression) of Danelagh was when the installation hall of the Knights of the Bath, in 1802, was given there. Its site is now part of Chelsea Hospital garden, between Church Row and the river, to the east of the Hospital. No traces remain. “ I have been breakfasting this morning at Ranelagb Garden ; they have built an immense amphitheatre, with balconies full of little ale houses ; it is in rivalry to Vauxhall, and costs above twelve thousand pounds. The build- ing is not finished, hut they get great sums by people going to see it and breakfasting in the house : there were yesterday no less than three hundred and eighty persons, at eighteen pence a piece.” — Walpole to Mann , April 22nd, 1742. “ Two nights ago Ranelagh Gardens were opened at Chelsea ; the prince, princess, duke, much nobility, and much mob besides were there. There is a vast amphitheatre, finely gilt, painted, and illuminated ; into which everybody that loves eating, drinking, staring, or crowding is admitted for twelve pence. The building and disposition of the gardens cost sixteen thousand pounds. Twice a week there are to be ridottos at guinea tickets, for which you are to have a supper and music. I was there last night, hut did not find the joy of it. Vauxhall is a little better, for the garden is pleasanter, and one goes by water.” — Walpole to Mann , May 2 6th, 1742. “ Every night constantly I go to Ranelagh ; which has totally heat Vaux- hall. Nobody goes anywhere else — everybody goes there. My Lord Chester- field is so fond of it, that he says he has ordered all his letters to be directed thither.” — Walpole to Conway, June 22th, 1744. “ Ranelagh is so crowded, that going there t’other night in a string of coaches, we had a stop of six-and- thirty minutes.” — Walpole to Montagu , May 2Qth, 1748. “ At Ranelagh I heard the famous Tenducci, a thing from Italy : it looks for all the world like a man, but they say it is not. The voice, to be sure, is neither man’s nor woman’s, but it is more melodious than either; and it warbled so divinely, that, while I listened, I really thought myself in Para- dise.” — Miss Lcetitia Willis in Humphry Clinker. Bonnell Thornton’s Burlesque Ode on St. Cecilia’s Day, set to music by Dr. Burney, was performed at Ranelagh to a crowded audience. Ranelagh House, Chelsea. Erected circ. 1691, to the east of the present Hospital, by Jones, Viscount Ranelagh, on a piece of ground near Chelsea College, granted to him by William III., on March 12th, 1689-90, for the term of 61 years,* and built, it is said, after a design by Lord Ranelagh himself. The house was standing when Lysons published his Environs, hut has * Appendix to 7th Report of the Deputy Keeper of the Public Records, p. 82. 692 RATCLIFFE HIGHWAY. since been taken down. This Lord Ranelagh, who died in 1712, was the Jones of De Grammont’s Memoirs. Ratcliffe Highway runs from East Smithfield to Shadwell High- street, and was so called from the manor of Ratcliffe, in the parish of Stepney. “ Raacliffe itself hath also been encreased in building eastward (in place where I have known a large highway with fair elm trees on both the sides), that the same hath now taken hold of Limehurst or Lime host, corruptly called Lime house, some time distant a mile from RadclifFe.” — Stow , p. 157. “ Tom. I have heard a ballad of him [the Protector Somerset] sung at Ratcliff Cross. u Mol. I believe we have it at home over our kitchen mantle tree.” Dry den’s Misc. Poems , iii. 296, ed. 1727. The murders of Marr and Williamson in Ratcliffe Highway are among the most extraordinary and best remembered atrocities of the present century. Marr kept a lace and pelisse warehouse at No. 29, Ratcliffe Highway, and about 12 at night, on Saturday, the 7th of December, 1811, had sent his female servant to purchase some oysters for supper, whilst he was shutting up the shop windows. On her return, in about a quarter of an hour, she rang the bell repeatedly without any person coming to the door. The house was then broken open, when Mr. and Mrs. Marr, the shop boy, and a child in ilie cradle, (the only human beings in the house), were found murdered. The murders of the Marr family were followed, on the 19th of December, (twelve days later, and about 12 at night), by the murders of Williamson, the landlord of the King’s Arms public-house, in Old Gravel-lane, Ratcliffe Highway, his wife, and female servant. A man named Williams, the only person suspected of the murders, hanged himself in prison, and was carried on a platform, placed on a high cart, past the houses of Marr and Williamson, and afterwards thrown, with a stake through his breast, into a hole dug for the purpose where the New Road crosses and Cannon-street-road begins. “ Many of our readers can remember the state of London just after the murders of Marr and Williamson — the terror which was on every face — the careful barring of doors — the providing of blunderbusses and watchmen’s rattles. We know of a shopkeeper who on that occasion sold three hundred rattles in about ten hours. Those who remember that panic may be able to form some notion of the state of England after the death of Godfrey.” — Macaulay’s Essays. [See Prince’s Square.] Rathbone Place, in Oxford Street, was so called after a carpenter and builder of that name.* On a stone is inscribed, “Rathbone Place, in Oxford-street, 1718.” Parton’s St. Giles’s, p. 117. RED BULL THEATRE. 693 “ Rathbone-place at this time (1784) entirely consisted of private houses, and its inhabitants were all of high respectability. I have heard Mrs. Mathew say (the wife of the incumbent, for whom Percy Chapel was built) that the three rebel lords, Lovat, Kilmarnock, and Balmerino, had at different times resided in it.” — A Book for a Rainy Bay , by J. T. Smith, p. 83. Nathaniel Hone, R. A., the painter of the picture called “ The Conjurer,” (an attack on Sir Joshua Reynolds’s method of com- posing his pictures), died here on Aug. 14th, 1784. The well- known Percy Anecdotes, edited by Sholto and Reuben Percy, derives its name from the Percy Coffee-house, in Rathbone- place, (now no more), where the idea of the work was first started by Mr. George Byerley and Mr. Joseph Clinton Robert- son, the Sholto and Reuben Percy of the collection. Rawthmell’s Coffee House, Henrietta Street, Covent Garden. A fashionable coffee-house, between 1730 and 1775, and so called after a Mr. John Rawthmell, long a respectable parishioner of St. Paul’s, Covent Garden. Here the “ Society of Arts” was first established, and here Armstrong, the poet of the Art of Preserving Health, was a frequent visitor. Ray Street, Clerkenwell. Here is the well, now a pump, where the parish clerks, before the Reformation, performed a miracle-play once a year. The district of ClerJcetiwell derives its name from this custom. [See Clerkenwell]. Record Offices in London are six in number : — The Chapel in the White Tower, [see Tower]; the Chapter House, West- minster Abbey ; the Rolls Chapel, in Chancery-lane ; Carlton Ride, in St. James’s Park ; State Paper Office ; Prerogative Will Office. [See all these names]. Red Bull Theatre stood at the upper end of St. John-street , on what is now called “ Red Bull Yard,” St. John’s-street Road. Mr. Collier conjectures that it was originally an inn- yard, converted into a regular theatre late in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Prynne speaks of it in 1633 as a theatre that had been “ lately re-edified and enlarged.” The King’s players, under Killigrew, performed within its walls till a stage in Drury-lane was ready to receive them. “ The Red Bull stands empty for fencers,” writes Davenant in 1663 ; “there are no tenants in it but spiders.” It was afterwards employed for trials of skill. Mr. Collier possesses a printed challenge and acceptance of a trial at eight several weapons, to be performed betwixt two scholars of Benjamin Dobson and William Wright, masters of the noble science of defence. The trial was to come off “at the Red Bull, at the upper end of St. John’s-street, on Whitsun Monday, the 30th of May, 694 RED CROSS STREET. 1664, beginning exactly at three of the clock in the afternoon, and the best man is to take all.” The weapons were: “Backsword, single rapier, sword and dagger, rapier and dagger, sword and buckler, half pike, sword and gauntlet, single faulchion.’ 5 Bed Cross Street, Cripplegate. “ In Red Cross Street, on the west side from St. Giles’s Churchyard up to the said Cross, he many fair houses built outward, with divers alleys turning into a large plot of ground, called the Jews’ Garden, as being the only place appointed them in England wherein to bury their dead, till the year 1177, the 24th of Henry II., that it was permitted to them (after long suit to the King and Parliament at Oxford) to have a special place assigned them in every quarter where they dwelt. This plot of ground remained to the said Jews till the time of their final banishment out of England, and is now turned into fair garden-plots and summer-houses for pleasure. [See Jewin Street.] On the east side of the Red Cross Street he also divers fair houses up to the Cross.” — Stow, p. 113. “ And first to show you that by conjecture he [Richard III.] pretended this thing in his brother’s life, you shall understand for a truth that the same night that King Edward dyed, one called Mistelbrooke, long ere the day sprung, came to the house of one Pottier, dwelling in Red Crosse Street without Cripple-gate, of London, and when he was with hasty rapping, quickly let in, the said Mistelbrooke showed unto Pottier that King Edward was that night deceased. ‘ By my troth,’ quoth Pottier, ‘ then will my master the Duke of Gloucester he King, and that I warrant thee.’ What cause he had so to think, hard it is to say, whether he being his servant, knew any such thing pretended, or otherwise had any inkling thereof, but of all likelihood he spake it not of ought .”- — Sir Thomas More, ( The Pitliful Life of King Edward the Fifth, p. 27, 12mo, 1641). Here is Mr. Williams's Library , (founded 1715), by the Bev. Dr. Daniel Williams, an eminent Protestant dissenting minister, of the Presbyterian denomination ; horn at Wrexham, in Den- bighshire, in 1644, and died in London in 1716. The catalogue was printed in 2 vols. 8vo., 1841. The library is open on Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday, in every week throughout the year, except Christmas and Whitsuntide weeks, and the month of August. The hours are from 10 till 3 during November, December, January, and February ; and from 10 till 4 during the rest of the year. There is an original portrait of Bichard Baxter in the library, and a copy of the first folio edition of Shakspeare. Bed House, Battersea. A favourite place for shooting-matches, on the Surrey side of the Thames, nearly opposite Chelsea Plospital. Pigeons are sold (to he shot at) at 15s. the dozen, starlings at 4s., and sparrows at 2s. The general distance is from 21 to 40 yards. At 21 yards a first-rate shot will back himself to kill 19 out of 21 pigeons. REFORM CLUB. 695 Red Lion Court, Fleet Street. Old Mr. Nichols, of the Gentleman’s Magazine, «was a printer in this court. His office here was destroyed by fire Feb. 8th, 1808. His son and grandson are printers in Parliament-street. Red Lion Square, on the north side of Holborn, Built circ. 1698, and so called of “ The Red Lion Inn,” long the largest and best frequented inn in Holborn. The bodies of Oliver Cromwell, Ireton, and Bradshaw, were carried from Westminster Abbey to the Red Lion in Holborn ; and the next day dragged on sledges from thence to Tyburn,* u He came back again unto London, where he lodged in the Red Lyon in Holborne.” — Stow by Howes , p. 672, ed. 1631. “ He [ Andrew Marvell] lies interred under y e pewes in the south side of ■ Saint Giles’s Church in y e Fields, under the window wherein is painted in glasse a red lyon, (it was given by the Inneholder of the Red Lyon Inne in Holborne).” — Aubrey’s Lives , iii. 438. u Thomas, a child borne under the Redd Lyon Elmes in the fields in High Holborn, baptized iij of August 1614.” — Baptismal Register of St. Andrew’s , Holborn. Red Lion Street, Holborn. [See Red Lion Square]. On the wall of the house, at the south-west corner of this street, is a block of wood let in, with the date “ 1611.” Redriff, a corruption of Rotherhithe. [See Rotherhithe] . The immortal Gulliver was, as Swift tells us, a native of Redriff. “ Filch. These seven handkerchiefs, madam. “ Mrs. Peachum. Coloured ones, I see. They are of sure sale from our warehouse at Redriff among the seamen.” — Gay , The Beggar’s Opera , 8vo, 1728. Reform Club, on the south side of Pall Mall, between the Travellers’ Club and the Carlton Club, was founded by the Liberal members of the two Houses of Parliament, about the time the Reform Bill was canvassed and carried, 1830-32. The Club consists of 1000 members, exclusive of members of either House of Parliament. Entrance -fee, 20 guineas ; annual subscription, 5 guineas. The house was built from the designs of Charles Barry, R. A. The exterior is greatly admired, though the windows, it is urged, are too small. The interior, especially the large square hall covered with glass, occupying the centre of the building, is very imposing. The cooldng establishment of the Club is under the superintendence of the celebrated M. Soyer, and in brilliancy of cuisine yields to none in Britain. Additional MS. British Museum, 10,116 ; Wood’s Ath. Ox., art. Ireton. 696 REGENT’S PARK. Regent’s Canal. Began Oct. 14th, 1812 ; opened Aug. 1st, 1820. Regency Theatre, Tottenham Street, Tottenham Court Road. Now “ The Queen’s,” and little frequented, and often closed. Here, in 1802, Colonel Greville instituted his Pic Nic Society. lUMfVk'z**- Regent’s Park. Part of old Marylebone Park, laid out on the expiration of the lease of the Duke of Portland, in Jan., 1811, and so called in compliment to the Prince Regent, afterwards George IV. The Park contains 372 acres, and its terraces and canal 80 acres additional. [See Zoological Gardens ; Botanic Gardens ; Primrose Hill ; St. Katherine’s Hospital ; Diorama ; Colosseum.] Corn wall-terrace was built by Decimus Burton in 1823, and Hanover-terrace by John Nash, in 1825. Around it runs an outer road, forming an agreeable drive nearly two miles long ; an inner drive, in the form of a circle, encloses the Botanic Gardens. Contiguous to the inner circle is St. John’s Lodge, seat of Baron Sir Isaac Lyon Goldsmid, and Holme Lodge, overlooking a beautiful sheet of water, close to which is the garden of the Toxophilite Society. On the outer road lie the villas of James Iiolford, Esq., who has several fine paintings ; St. Dunstan’s Villa, erected by Decimus Burton for the late Marquis of Hertford, and in the gardens of which are placed the identical clock and automaton strikers which once adorned Old St. Bunstans Church in Fleet-street. When the marquis was a child, and a good child, his nurse, to reward him, would take him to see “ the giants” at St. Dunstan’s, and he used to say, that when he grew to be a man “he would buy those giants.” It happened when old St. Dunstan’s was pulled down that the giants were put up to auction, and bought by the marquis out of old associations. They still do their duty in striking hours and quarters. Through the midst of the Park, on a line with Portland-place, runs a fine broad avenue lined with trees, and footpaths ramify across the green sward in all directions. Regent’s Park Market. A market for the sale of hay, straw, and other articles, removed from the Haymarket, between Piccadilly and Pall Mall, to York-square, Clarence-gardens, and Cumberland-market, pursuant to 11 Geo. IV., cap. 14. PtEGENT Street. A long and well-proportioned street, designed by John Nash, the architect of Buckingham Palace, whose own house, No. 14, in this street, is now the Parthenon Club. It derives its name from the Prince Regent, afterwards George IV., and originated in the purchase by Nash, for 70,000A, of a piece of land belonging to Lord Foley, at the south extremity of RICHARD S COFFEE HOUSE. 697 Langham-place and Foley-place. The perishable nature of the brick and composition of which this street is built gave rise to the following epigram : — “ Augustus at Rome was for building renown’d, And of marble he left wbat of brick he had ftnind ; But is not our Nash, too, a very great master? — He finds us all brick and he leaves us all plaster.” Quarterly Review for June , 1 826. [See St. Philip’s Chapel, (near Waterloo-place), built by G. S. Repton, and too heathen in its ornaments for a Christian church. — Hanover Chapel, near Princes-street, built by C. R. Cocke- rell, R.A., cost 16,1 80^- First stone laid June 6th, 1823. Church consecrated June 20th, 1825. — Quadrant ; the covered arcade was removed in 1848. — Foubert’s Passage.] Observe . — No. 229, Verrey, cafe et restaurant, (corner of the street entering Hanover-square). This is perhaps the best of its kind in Lon- don. — Regent-street occupies the sites of Swallow-street and St. Alban-street , and began to be built pursuant to 53 Geo. III., c. 120, ( i.e . 1813). The line was intended to have been drawn straight from Langham-place, but while the plan was being dis- cussed, and during the delay of government in assenting to it, Barber Beaumont secured the ground on which the County Fire Office stands. This gave rise to the Quadrant, the most original part of the whole design. Nash was obliged to buy up, at his own charge, the ground on which the Quadrant is built. Except for his venturing his fortune in the undertaking, (by which he was eventually ruined), this grand avenue, one of the finest streets in Europe, with all its faults, would never have been executed. Registrar General’s Office, Somerset House. The office of the Registrar of Births , Marriages, and Deaths, erected pursuant to 6 & 7 Will. IV., c, 86. The Registrar publishes an annual report. Religious Tract Society, 56, Paternoster Row. Established 1799. Richard’s Coffee House, in Fleet Street, (south side near Temple Bar). It is now called Dick's, but was known as Richard’s as early as 1693.* “ The day before the period above mentioned arrived, being at Richards’s Coffee House at breakfast [he then lived in the Temple], I read the news- paper, and in it a letter, which, the further I perused it, the more closely engaged my attention. I cannot now recollect the purport of it ; hut before * London Gazette for 1693, No. 2939. H H 693 RICHMOND HOUSE. I had finished it, it appeared demonstratively true to me that it was a libel or satire upon me. The author appeared to be acquainted with my purpose of self-destruction, and to have written that letter on purpose to secure and hasten the execution of it. My mind probably at this time began to be dis- ordered ; however it was, I was certainly given up to a strong delusion. I said within myself 4 your cruelty shall be gratified ; you shall have your revenge ! * and flinging down the paper, in a fit of strong passion, I rushed hastily out of the room ; directing my way towards the fields, where I intended to find some house to die in ; or, if not, determined to poison myself in a ditch, where I could meet with one sufficiently retired.”— Cowper’s own Accownt of his Insanity , (Southey’s Cowper, i. 123). Richmond House, Whitehall, was so called after Charles, second Duke of Richmond of the present family, (d. 1750), for whom it was built hy the celebrated Earl of Burlington. It stood at the southern extremity of Privy -gardens, and looked towards Charing Cross. The ground on which it was built was previously occupied by the apartments of the Duchess of Portsmouth, the mother (by Charles II.) of the duke’s father, the first Duke of Richmond. The third Duke of Richmond, who died in 1806, formed, in a gallery in this house, a noble collection of the very finest casts from the antique, and with a spirit and liberality much in advance of his age, afforded every accommodation, and invited artists by advertisements to study in his gallery. This, the first school established in this country, wherein the beauties of the antique could be studied, was opened on Monday, March 6th, 1758 ; for the date deserves to he remembered. Cipriani and Wilton (artists of eminence) attended to instruct, and silver medals were occasionally awarded. This was ten years before the establishment of the Royal Academy. Richmond House was burnt to the ground Dec. 21st, 1791. Richmond-terrace occu- pies its site. There is an engraved view of the house hy Boydell ; and Edwards, in his Anecdotes, (p. 164), mentions a drawing of the gallery hy an artist of the name of Parry, which he consi- dered curious, 44 being,” as he says, “ the only representation of the place.” Richmond Street, Leicester Square. The Earl of Maccles- field was living here in 1681.* Richmond Terrace, Whitehall. [ See Richmond House.] Ring (The). A circle in Hyde Park , surrounded with trees, and forming, in the height of the season, a fashionable ride and promenade. It was made in the reign of Charles I., and partly destroyed at the time the Serpentine was formed, by Caroline, Queen of George II. Oldys had seen a poem, in sixteen pages, entitled The Circus, or British Olympicks, a Satyr on the Ring * Rate-books of St. Martin’s. RING (THE). 699 in Hyde Park. “This is a poem,” says Oldys, “satirizing many fops under fictitious names. Near a thousand coaches,” he adds, “have been seen there in an evening.” Several of the trees still remain. “ Wycherley was a very handsome man. His acquaintance with the famous Duchess of Cleveland commenced oddly enough. One day as he passed that Duchess’s coach in the Ring, she leaned out of the window, and cried out, loud enough to he heard distinctly by him, ‘ Sir, you ’re a rascal : you ’re a villain ! ’ [alluding to a song in his first play]. Wycherley from that instant enter- tained hopes.” — Pope, in Spence, (ed. Singer, p. 16). “ Wilt thou still sparkle in the box, Still ogle in the Ring ? Canst thou forget thy age and pox ? Can all that shines on shells and rocks Make thee a fine young thing ? ” Lord Dorset's Verses on Dorinda. Young Bellair. I know some who will give you an account of every glance that passes at a play and i’ th’ Circle.” — Etherege, The Man of Mode, or Sir Fopling Flutter, 4to, 1676. l( ~ Sir Fopling. All the world will he in the Park to night : Ladies, ’twere pity to keep so much beauty longer within doors, and rob the Ring of all those charms that should adorn it.” — Ibid. “ The next place of resort wherein the servile world are let loose, is at the entrance of Hyde Park, while the gentry are at the Ring.” — Spectator, No. 88. •“ Leonora. Trifle, let ’s see this morning’s letters. “ Trifle. There are . only these half dozen, madam. “ Leonora. No more ! Barbarity ! This it is to go to Hyde Park upon a windy day, when a well-dress’d gentleman can’t stir abroad. The beaus were forced to take shelter in the playhouse, I suppose. I was a fool I did not go thither ; I might have made ten times the havoc in the side-boxes. “ Trifle. Your ladyship’s being out of humour with the Exchange woman, for shaping your ruffles so odiously, I am afraid made you a little too reserv’d, madam. “ Leonora. Prithee ! was there a fop in the whole Ring, that had not a side- glance from me ? ” — Colley Cibber, Woman's Wit, or The Lady in Fashion, 4to, 1697. “ Sir Francis Gripe, (to Miranda). Pretty rogue, pretty rogue ; and so thou shalt find me, if thou dost prefer thy Gardy before these caperers of the age ; thou shalt outshine the Queen’s box on an opera night ; thou shalt be the envy of the Ring, (for I will carry thee to Hyde Park), and thy equipage shall surpass the — what d’ye call ’em — Ambassadors.” — Mrs. Centlixre, The Busy Body, 4to, 1708. “ All the fine equipages that shine in the Ring never gave me another thought than either pity or contempt for the owners, that could place hap- piness in attracting the eyes of strangers.” — Lady Mary W. Montague, (Works, by Lord Wharncliffe, i. 177). “ My Lord [Mohun] then asked the Hackney Coachman if he knew where they could get any thing that was good, it being a cold morning ; he [the Hackney Coachman] said at the House near the Ring. When they came near the house, they [Lord Mohun and his second, General Macartney] both got h h 2 700 ROCHESTER HOUSE. out of the coach, and hid the coachman get some burnt wine at the house, while they took a little walk. He went into the House and told the Drawer he brought two gentlemen, who bid him get some burnt wine against they came back ; the Drawer said he would not, for very few came thither so soon in the morning but to fight.” — Duel between Duke of Hamilton and Lord Mohun , (Hackney Coachman's Evidence before the Coroner). u Know, then, unnumbered spirits round thee fly, The light militia of the lower sky : These, though unseen, are ever on the wing. Hang o’er the Box and hover round the Ring.” Pope, Rape of the Lock. “ Sooner shall grass in Hyde Park Circus grow, And wits take lodgings in the sound of Bow.”- — Ibid. u Ah ! friend ! to dazzle let the vain design ; To raise the thought and touch the heart be thine ! That charm shall grow, while what fatigues the Ring, Flaunts and goes down an unregarded thing.” Pope , Of the Characters of Women. “ She glares in balls, front-boxes, and the Ring, A vain, unquiet, glittering, wretched thing.” Pope, To Martha Blount, with the Works of Voiture. The last circumstance of any interest connected with the Ring is the duel fought here in 1763, between Wilkes and Martin, on account of a passage in the North Briton newspaper. Wilkes was wounded. Rochester House, Southwark. The inn or town-house of the Bishops of Rochester. No traces remain. “ Adjoining Winchester House is the Bishop of Rochester’s inn or lodging, by whom first erected I do not now remember me to have read ; but well I wot the same of long time hath not been frequented by any bishop, and lieth ruinous for lack of any reparations. The Abbot of Waverley had a house there.” — Stow, p. 151. “ Rochester House was, about 40 years since, one great house and a great garden, and now consisteth of 62 tenements.” — MS. temp. James /., ( Churchwardens’ Accounts of St. Saviour's, Southwark). Rochester Row, Westminster. So called after the Bishops of Rochester, several of whom (Sprat and Atterbury for instance) held the deanery of Westminster at the same time with the see of Rochester. Rolls House and Chapel, Chancery Lane. A place where the rolls and records of the Court of Chancery are kept from the reign of Richard III. to the present time. The Master of the Rolls sits in the Rolls House in vacation time. Salary of the master, 7000^. a year. The master’s house was built by Colin Campbell, in 1717, during the mastership of Sir Joseph Jekyll, and the first stone was laid Sept. 18th, 1717. On the site of the present chapel Henry 111. erected, in the year 1233, a ROLLS HOUSE. 701 House of Maintenance for converted Jews, but the number of converts decreasing from the enactment of Edward I., in 1290, by which the Jews were banished out of the realm, Edward III., in 1377, annexed the house and chapel to the newly-created office of Custos Rotulorum, or Keeper of the Rolls. The mate- rials of the chapel are old, but the alterations and adaptations throughout have scarcely left a particle of the building in its old position. The interior is disfigured by presses containing records, and an organ placed immediately in front of the great west window. Observe. — Monument to Dr. John Young, Master of the Rolls in the reign of Henry VIII. Vertue and Walpole attribute it, and with great reason, to Torrigiano, the sculptor of the tomb of Henry VII. at Westminster. The master is represented lying on an altar-tomb, with his hands crossed, and his face expressive of sincere devotion. Within a recess at the back is a head of Christ, with an angel’s head on each side, in high relief. — Monument to Lord Bruce of Kinloss, (d. 1610), Master of the Rolls in the reign of James I., and father of Lord Edward Bruce, killed by Sir Edward Sackville in the famous duel. — Monument to Sir Richard Allington, of Horseheath, in Cambridgeshire, (d. 1561). — The arms of Sir Robert Cecil and of Sir Harbottle Grimston form conspicuous objects in the windows. Among the preachers at the Rolls have been Bishop Burnet, the historian of his Own Times. He was preacher here for nine years. — Atterbury, Bishop of Roches- ter, and Bishop Butler, the author of the Analogy of Religion. Burnet’s sermon at this chapel, on the text, “ Save me from the lion’s mouth ; thou hast heard me from the horns of the unicorns,” is matter of history. Fifteen of Butler’s sermons at the Rolls form an octavo volume. The Rolls liberty is a parish or peculiar of its own. Roman Catholic Chapel, Moorfields, — John Newman, archi- tect ; first stone laid Aug. 5th, 1817 ; consecrated April 20th, 1820 ; cost 26,000 1. Weber, the composer, was buried in its vaults, but removed in 1842. [ See Finsbury Circus.] Rood Lane, Billingsgate. “ Rood Lane, so called of a roode there placed in the churchyard of St. Margaret Pattens, whilst the old church was taken down and again newly built; during which time the oblations made to this rood were employed towards the building of the church ; but in the year 1538, about the 23rd of May, in the morning, the said rood was found to have been, on the night pre- ceding, by people unknown, broken all to pieces, together with the tabernacle wherein it had been placed.” — Stow , p. 79. Rosamond’s Pond. A sheet of water in the south-west corner of St. James’s Park, “ long consecrated to disastrous love and 702 ROSAMOND’S POND. elegiac poetry.” * I can find no earlier notice of it than is contained in a payment, issued from the Exchequer, in 1612, of 400?., “ towards the charge of making and bringing a cur- rent of water from Hyde Park, in a vault of brick arched over, to fall into Bosamond’s Pond at St. James’s Park.” -j- It was filled up in 1770.| 44 Would that Barn Elms was under water too ; there ’s a thousand cuckolds a year made at Barn Elms by Rosamond’s Pond.” — Otway , The Soldier's Fortune , 4 to, 1681. 44 Mirabel . Meet me at one o’clock by Rosamond’s Pond.” — Congreve , The Way of the World, 4to, 1700. 44 Young Wou'd Be. Are the ladies come ? 44 Serv. Half an hour ago, my lord. S( Young Would Be. Where did you light on ’em ? “Serv. One in the passage at the old Playhouse — I found another very melancholy paring her nails by Rosamond’s Pond — and a couple I got at the Chequer Alehouse in Holborn.” — Farquhar, The Twin Rivals, 4 to, 1703. 44 Mrs. Friendall. His note since dinner desires you would meet him at seven at Rosamond’s Pond.” — Southerne, The Wives' Excuse, or Cuckolds make Themselves , 4to, 1692. “Lady Trickitt. Was it fine walking last night, Mr. Granger? Was there good company at Rosamond’s Pond ? 44 Granger. I did not see your ladyship there. “ Lady Trickitt. Me ! fie, fie, a married woman there, Mr. Granger ! ” Southerne , The Maid's Last Prayer, or Any rather than Fail, 4 to, 1693. 44 Sir Novelty (reads'). Excuse, my dear Sir Novelty, the forc'd indifference I have shewn you, and let me recompense your past sufferings with an hour’s conversation, after the play, at Rosamond’s Pond.” — Colley Cibber , Love's Last Shift, 4to, 1696. 44 31 Jany. 1710-11. We are here in as smart a frost for the time as I have seen ; delicate walking weather, and the Canal and Rosamond’s Pond full of the rabble sliding, and with skates, if you know what those are.”— Swift, Journal to Stella. 44 Upon the next public Thanksgiving Day it is my design to sit astride on the dragon on Bow steeple, from whence, after the discharge of the Tower guns, I intend to mount into the air, fly over Fleet Street, and pitch upon the Maypole in the Strand. From thence, by gradual descent, I shall make the best of my way for St. James’s Park, and light upon the ground near Rosa- mond’s Pond.” — The Guardian, No. 112. 44 As I was last Friday taking a walk in the Park, I saw a country gentle- man at the side of Rosamond’s Pond, pulling a handful of oats out of his pocket, and with a great deal of pleasure gathering the ducks about him. Upon my coming up to him, who should it be but my friend the Fox-Hunter, whom I gave some account of in my 22nd paper.” — Addison, The Freeholder, No. 44. * Warburton to Plurd, p. 151. Devon’s Issues from the Exchequer, p. 150, 4to, 1836. £ There is an engraving of it by J. T. Smith, from a drawing made in 1758; and a still better view, by W. H. Toms, from a drawing by Chatelain in 1752. ROSE STREET. 703 “ This the Beau-monde shall from the Mall survey * * * This the blest lover shall for Venus take, And send up vows from Rosamonda’s Lake.” — Rape of the Loch. “ The termination of this delectable walk [in St. James’s Park] was a knot of lofty elms by a Pond side ; round some of which were commodious seats for the tired ambulators to refresh their weary pedestals. Here a parcel of old worn-out Cavaliers were conning over the Civil Wars.” — Ned Ward's London Spy , p. 164, ed. 1753. Tom Brown speaks of the Close Walk at the head of the pond.* Another pond in the Green Park, nearly opposite Coventry House, bore the name of Rosamond down to 1840-1. Rose Street, Covert Garden. A dirty and somewhat circuitous street, between King-street and Long-acre. “ Rose Street, of which there are three, and all indifferent well-built and inhabited; hut the best is that next to King Street, called White Rose Street, which is in Covent Garden Parish.” — Strype, B. vi., p. 74. It was in this street (Dec. 18th, 1679) that Dryden, returning to his house in Long-acre, over against Rose-street, f was bar- barously assaulted and wounded by three persons hired for the purpose, as is now known, by Wilmot, Earl of Rochester. Fifty pounds were offered by the King for the discovery of the offenders, and a pardon in addition, if a principal or an acces- sary would come forward. But Rochester’s “ Black Will with a cudgel ” (the name he gives his bully) was bribed to silence, it is thought, by a better reward. Rochester took offence at a passage in Lord Mulgravo’s Essay on Satire, an essay in which his lordship received assistance from Dryden. There are many allusions to this Rose-alley Ambuscade, as it is called, in our old State Poems. So famous, indeed, was the assault, that Mulgrave’s poem was commonly called The Rose-alley Satire. Eminent Inhabitants . — Samuel Butler, author of Hudibras, died here (1680) poor and neglected. — Edmund Curll, the book- seller, was living here when he published “ Mr. Pope’s Literary Correspondence,” a dark chapter still in our literary history. Rose Tavern, corner of Thanet Place, without Temple Bar. “ At the Rose Tavern without Temple Bar there is a vine that covers an arbour where the sun very rarely comes, and has had ripe grapes upon it.” — The City Gardener , by Thomas Fairchild , Gardener of Hoxton, p. 55, 8vo, 1722. * Amusements of London, p. 65, 8vo, 1700. ■f The biographers of Dryden relate that the poet was on his way home from Will’s to his house in Gerard Street, but no part of Gerard Street was built in 1679, and in that year, as I have related above, Dryden, it appears from the Rate- books of St. Martin’s, was living in Long-acre, over-against Rose-street. That he was on his way home from Will’s is only an assumption. 704 ROSE TAVERN. “ The Rose Tavern, a well customed house with good conveniences of rooms, and a good garden.” — Strype , B. iv., p. 117. The painted room at the Rose Tavern is mentioned in Walpole’s letters to Cole of Jan. 26th, 1776, and March 1st, 1776. Rose Tavern (The) stood in Russell Street, Covent Garden, adjoining Drury-lane Theatre.* Part of it was taken down in 1776, when Adam, the architect, built a new front to fche theatre for Garrick, then about to part with his patent. In Charles II. ’s time it was kept by a person of the name of Long. Tavern-tokens of the house still exist. “18 May, 1668. It being almost twelve o’clock, or little more, to the King’s Playhouse, when the doors were not then open ; but presently they did open ; and we in, and find many people already come in by private ways into the pit, it being the first day of Sir Charles Sedley’s new play so long expected, ‘ The Mulberry Garden ; ’ of whom, being so reputed a wit, all the world do expect great matters. I having sat here awhile and eat nothing to-day, did slip out, getting a boy to keep my place ; and to the Rose Tavern, and there got half a breast of mutton off of the spit, and dined all alone.” — Pepys. “ I left some friends of yours at The Rose.” Sedley's Bellamira , 4to, 1687. “ Sir Fred . Frolic. Sing the catch I taught you at The Rose.” Etherege , Love in a Tub , 4 to, 1669. “ Roger. O, Mr. Woodcock ! Poet Ninny is gone to the Rose Tavern, and bid me tell you,” &c. — Shadwell, The Sullen Lovers, 4to, 1668. “ Woodcock. By the Lord Harry, Sir Positive, I do understand Mathe- matics better than you ; and I lie over-against the Rose Tavern in Covent Garden, dear heart.” — Ibid. “ Tope. Puh, this is nothing; why I knew the Hectors, and before them the Muns and the Tityre Tu’s ; they were brave fellows indeed ; in those days a man could not go from the Rose Tavern to the Piazza once, but he must venture his life twice, my dear Sir Willy.” — Shadwell, The Scowrers, 4to, 1691. “ Whackum (a city scowrer, and imitator of Sir William Rant). Oh no, never talk on ’t. There will never be his fellow. O had you seen him scower, as I did, oh so delicately, so like a gentleman ! How he cleared the Rose Tavern ? I was there about law-business, compounding for a bastard, and he and two fine gentlemen came roaring in, the handsomeliest and the most genteely turned us all out of the room, and swinged us and kicked us about, I vow to God ’twould have done your heart good to have seen it.” — Ibid , “ Suppose me dead, and then suppose A club assembled at the Rose, Where from discourse of this and that, I grow the subject of their chat.” Swift, Verses on his own Death. “ He is an excellent critick, and the time of the play is his hour of business ; exactly at five he passes through New Inn, crosses through Russell Court, and Strype, B. vi., pp. 67, 74. ROSE THEATRE. 705 takes a turn at Will’s till the play begins ; he has his shoes rubbed and his periwig powdered at the Barber’s as you go into the Rose.” — The Spectator, No. 2. M The hangings [at Drury Lane Theatre] you formerly mentioned are run away ; as are likewise a set of chairs, each of which was met upon two legs going through the Rose Tavern at two this morning.” — The Spectator , No. 36. “ Lucy. Pray, sir, pardon me. “ Brazen. I can’t tell, child, till I know whether my money be safe {searching his pocket). Yes, yes, I do pardon you ; but if I had you in the Rose Tavern in Covent Garden, with three or four hearty rakes, and three or four smart napkins, I would tell you another story, my dear.” — Farquhar, The Recruiting Officer, 4to, 1707. “ Mr. Hildbrand Horden was the son of Dr. Horden, minister of Twicken- ham in Middlesex ; and was an actor upon the stage, and had almost every gift that could make him excel in his profession, and was every day rising in the favour of the public, when, after having been about seven years upon the stage, he was unfortunately killed at the bar of the Rose Tavern, in a frivolous, rash, accidental quarrel, for which Colonel Burgess, one who was resident at Venice, and some other persons of distinction, took their trials, and were acquitted. He was remarkable for his handsome person ; and before he w r as buried, several ladies well dressed came in masks, which were then much worn, and some in their own coaches, to visit him in his shroud.” — List of Dramatic Authors appended to Scander beg, a Tragedy, 8vo, 1747. u In this house [the Rose Tavern] George Powell spent great part of his time ; and often toasted to intoxication his mistress, with bumpers of Nantz- brandy ; he came sometimes so warm, with that noble spirit, to the theatre, that he courted the ladies so furiously on the stage, that in the opinion of Sir John Vanbrugh they were almost in danger of being conquered on the spot.” — Davies’s Dramatic Misc., iii. 416. Here Prior has laid a scene in The Hind and the Panther Transversed. “ Johnson. Nay faith, we won’t part so : let us step to the Rose for one quarter of an hour, and talk over old stories. “ Bayes. 1 ever took you to be men of honour, and for your sakes I will transgress as far as one pint. “ Johnson . Well, Mr. Bayes, many a merry bout have we had in this house.” — Prior and Montague, The Hind and the Panther Transversed. Here (Nov. 14th, 1712) the seconds on either side arranged the duel fought the next day between the Duke of Hamilton and Lord Mohun, as “ John Sisson, the drawer at the Rose Tavern,” deposes in evidence before the coroner. The duke and Lord Mohun were here the same day, the duke and General Macartney (Lord Mohun’s second) drinking part of a bottle of French claret together. 'Rose Theatre, Bankside, Southwark, stood contiguous to Paris Garden , on the site of what is now called Rose-alley. Henslowe was its owner, hut the ground on which it stood he appears to have rented. “ The Rose was built after March 1584, but it is not clear that there had H H 3 706 IiOTHERllITHE. not been a playhouse on the same spot at an earlier period. In 1584, it was called the little Rose, and it sometimes preserved the name afterwards. Like the Globe (and the Fortune on its first construction) the Rose w T as a wooden building, ‘ done abowt with ealme hordes’ on the outside.” — Collier , ( Hens - lowers Diary , p. 4). A messuage or tenement, called the Rose, is mentioned in the charter of Edward VI., granting the manor of Southwark to the City of London. A house or tenement, called the Swan, (hence the Swan Theatre ), is mentioned in the same charter. Rosemary Lane, Whitechapel. [See Rag Fair.] In the burial register of St. Mary’s, Whitechapel, the following entry occurs : “ 1649, June 21st. Rich. Brandon, a man out of Rosemary Lane.” To this is added — “ This R. Brandon is supposed to have cut off the head of Charles the first.” “ He [Brandon] likewise confessed that he had thirty pounds for his pains, all paid him in half crowns within an hour after the blow was given ; and that he had an orange stuck full of cloves, and a handkercher out of the King’s pocket, so soon as he was carryed off from the scaffold, for which orange he was proffered twenty shillings by a gentleman in Whitehall, but refused the same, and afterwards sold it for ten shillings in Rosemary Lane.” — The Confession of Richard Brandon , the Hangman, 4to, 1649. This Richard Brandon was, it is said, “ the only son of Gre- gory Brandon, and claimed the gallows by inheritance — the first he beheaded was the Earl of Strafford.” * Rotherhithe, corruptly Redrief. A manor and parish on the right bank of the Thames, in the county of Surrey. It is not men- tioned in Doomsday Book, and was, therefore, at the time of the Conquest, it is thought, only a hamlet to Bermondsey. The church, dedicated to St. Mary, was built in the years 1714 and 1715. In the churchyard is the monument erected by the East India Company to the memory of Prince Lee Boo, a native of the Pelew or Palas Islands, and son to Abba Thulle Rupack, or King of the island Goo-roo-raa, who died from the small pox in Captain Wilson’s house in Paradise-row, Dec. 29th, 1784. The inscription records that the stone was erected “ as a testimony of the humane and kind treatment afforded by his father to the crew of the Antelope, Captain Wilson, which was wrecked off the island of Goo-roo-raa on the night of the 9th of August, 1783.” Rotherhithe is chiefly inhabited by seafaring people. The brave old Admiral Benbow was born, in 1650, in Wintershull-street, now Hanover-street.f Gulliver, so Swift tells us, was long an inhabitant of the place. The south * Ellis’s Letters, Second Series, vol. iii., p. 342. + Manning’s Surrey, i. 229. ROYAL ACADEMY. 707 entrance to the Thames Tunnel is in Swan-lane, Rotherhitlie. [ See Red rifF.] Rotten Row, Hyde Park. A roadway for saddle horses only, on the south side of Hyde Park, between Hyde Park Corner and Kensington, which in the months of May, June, and part of July, between the hours of five and seven, is crowded with hundreds of equestrians, and ladies in great numbers, adding brilliancy to the scene. “ When its quicksilver ’s down at zero, lo ! Coach, chariot, luggage, baggage, equipage ! Wheels whirl from Carlton palace to Soho, And happiest they who horses can engage ; The turnpikes glow with dust ; and Rotten Row Sleeps from the chivalry of this bright age ; And tradesmen, with long hills and longer faces, Sigh — as the post-boys fasten on the traces.” Don Juan , Canto xiii., stanza 44. Round Court, St. Martin’s in the Fields, on the north-west side of the Strand, “almost,” says Hatton, “against Buckingliam- street end.” It is particularly mentioned in No. 304 of the Spectator, and is carefully laid down in Strype’s map of St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields. It was partly in the Bermudas and partly in Bor ridge Island. Rowland Hill’s Chapel. [ See Blackfriars Road.] Royal Academy of Arts, Trafalgar Square, east wing of the National Gallery. The Academy was constituted Dec. 10th, 1768, it opeued its first exhibition in Somerset House, May, 1780, but removed from Somerset House and opened its first exhibi- tion in Trafalgar -square. May, 1838. Its principal objects were, and are still — 1. The establishment of a well-regulated “ School, or Academy of Design,” for the use of students in the arts ; and, 2. An “annual exhibition,” open to all artists of distinguished merit, where they might offer their perform- ances to public inspection, and acquire that degree of reputa- tion and encouragement which they should be deemed to deserve.* It is called by its members “a private society.” “In fact,” says Mr. Howard, the secretary, in his evidence before the House of Commons,! “it is a private society, but that it supports a school that is open to the public.” The members are under the superintendence and control of the Queen only, who confirms all appointments ; and the society itself consists of 40 Royal Academicians, (including a President), * Malone’s Sir Joshua, i. xi. f Pye, p 298. 708 ROYAL ACADEMY. 20 Associates, and 6 Associate Engravers. The Royal Aca- demy derives the whole of its funds from the produce of its annual exhibition, to which the price of admission is one shilling, and the catalogue one shilling. From 1769 to 1780 the exhi- bition produced at an average about 1500/. annually ; from 1780 to 1796, about 2500 L* The average annual receipts amounted in 1836 to about 5000/. Since the removal to Trafalgar-square, the receipts have increased, and are now, I am assured, nearer 6000/. On the first day of opening in 1847, 106/. was taken : on the second, 114/. : and on the third, 130/. The annual exhibition opens the first Monday in May, and works intended for exhibition must be sent in at least three weeks or a month before — but of this due notice is given in all the public papers. No works which have been already exhibited ; no copies of any kind, (excepting paintings on enamel) ; no mere transcripts of the objects of natural history ; no vignette portraits, nor any drawings without backgrounds, (excepting architectural designs), can be received. No artist is allowed to exhibit more than eight different works. Honorary exhibitors (or unprofessional artists) are limited to one. All works sent for exhibition are submitted to the approval or rejection of the council, whose decision is final, and may be ascertained by application at the academy in the week after they have been left there. Mode of obtaining Admission . — Any person desiring to become a student of the Royal Academy, presents a drawing or model of his own performance to the keeper, which, if consi- dered by him a proof of sufficient ability, is laid before the Council, together with a testimony of his moral character, from an Academician, or other known person of respectability. If these ai'e approved by the Council, the candidate is permitted to make a drawing or model from one of the antique figures in the Academy, and the space of three months from the time of receiving such permission is allowed for that purpose ; the time of his attendance is from 1 0 o'clock in the morning until 3 in the afternoon. This drawing or model, when finished, is laid before the Council, accompanied with outline drawings of an anatomical figure and skeleton, not less than two feet high, with lists and references on eacli drawing, of the several muscles, tendons, and bones contained therein, together with the drawing or model originally presented for his admission as a probationer; if approved, the candidate is accepted as a student of the Royal Academy, and receives in form the ticket of his admis- sion from the hand of the keeper in the Antique School. If the specimen presented be rejected by the Council, he is not allowed to continue drawing in the Academy. The rule for Architectural Students is of a like character. The 10th of February is the day on which the vacancies in the list of Royal Academicians are filled up ; and November the month for electing Associates. The Royal Academy possesses a fine library of books, of prints, and a large collection of casts * Malone’s Sir Joshua, i. xxxix. ROYAL EXCHANGE. 709 from the antique, and several very interesting pictures by a old masters. The library is open to the students. Each member on his election presents a picture, or a work of art, of his own design and execution, to the collection of the Academy. The series thus obtained is interesting in the history of British art. Observe . — Portrait of Sir William Chambers, the architect, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, (very fine) ; Portrait of Reynolds in his Doctor’s robes, by Sir Joshua Reynolds, (very fine) ; Boys digging for a rat, by Sir David Wilkie. Works of Art in the possession of the Hoy at Academy . — 1. Cartoon of the Holy Family, in black chalk, by L. Da Vinci ; executed with extreme care, and engraved by Anker Smith, (very fine); “the Holy Virgin is represented on the lap of St. Anna, her mother ; she bends down tenderly to the infant Christ, who plays with a lamb.”* 2. Bas-relief, in marble, of the Holy Family, by Michael Angelo ; presented by Sir George Beaumont. “ St. John is presenting a dove to the child Jesus, who shrinks from it and shelters himself in the arms of his mother, who seems gently reproving St. John for his hastiness, and putting him back with her hand. The child is finished and the mother in great part: the St. John is only sketched, but in a most masterly style.”! 3. Copy, in oil, of Da Vinci’s Last Supper, (size of the original), by Marco d’Oggione, a scholar of Leonardo, and is very valuable, perhaps representing more exactly Leonardo’s grand desigti than the original itself in its present mutilated state at Milan. This was formerly in the Certosa at Pavia. Royal Academy of Music. [See Academy of Music.] Royal Exchange (The). A quadrangle and colonnade, (the third building of the kind on the same site), erected for the convenience of merchants and bankers ; built from the designs of William Tite, and opened by her Majesty in person, Oct. 28th, 1844. The pediment was made by R. Westmacott, R.A., (the younger) ; the marble statue of her Majesty in the quadrangle, by Lough ; and the statues of Sir Thomas Gresham, Sir Hugh Myddelton, and Queen Elizabeth, by Messrs. Joseph, Carew, and Watson. It is said to have cost 180,00(R. The two great days on ’Change are Tuesday and Friday, and the busy period from half-past 3 to half-past 4 p.m. The Rothschilds, the greatest people on ’Change, occupy a pillar on the south side of the Exchange. [See Lloyd’s.] The first Ro;yal Exchange was founded by Sir * Kuglcr. ! Sir G. Beaumont to Chan trey. 710 ROYAL EXCHANGE. Thomas Gresham ; the first stone was laid June 7th, 1566, and the building opened by Queen Elizabeth in person, Jan. 23rd, 1570-1. “ The Queen’s Majesty, attended with her nobility, came from her house at the Strand called Somerset house, and entered the city by Temple Bar, through Fleet-street, Cheap, and so by the north side of the burse, through Threeneedle-street, to Sir Thomas Gresham’s house in Bishopsgate-street, where she dined. After dinner her Majesty, returning through Cornhill, entered the burse on the south side ; and after that she had viewed every part thereof above the ground, especially the pawn, which was richly furnished with all sorts of the finest wares in the city, she caused the same burse, by a herald and trumpet, to he proclaimed ‘ The Royal Exchange,’ and so to be called from thenceforth, and not otherwise.” — Stow. “After the Royal Exchange, which is now [1631] called the Eye of London, had been builded two or three years, it stood in a manner empty ; and a little before her Majesty was to come thither to view the beauty thereof, and to give it a name, Sir Thomas Gresham, in his own person, went, twice in one day, round about the upper pawn, and besought those few shop- keepers then present that they would furnish and adorn with wares and wax- lights as many shops as they either could or would, and they should have all those shops so furnished rent free that year, which otherwise at that time was 40s. a shop by the year ; and within two years after he raised that rent unto four marks a year ; and within a while after that he raised his rent of every shop unto 41. 10s. a year, and then all shops were well furnished according to that time ; for then the milliners or haberdashers in that placd sold mouse- traps, bird-cages, shoeing horns, lanthorns, and Jew’s trumps, &c. There were also at that time that kept shops in the upper pawn of the Royal Exchange, armourers that sold both old and new armour, apothecaries, booksellers, goldsmiths, and glass-sellers, although now [1631] it is as plenteously stored with all kinds of rich wares and fine commodities as any particular place in Europe, into which place many foreign princes daily send to be best served of the best sort.” — Howes, p. 869, ed. 1631. The materials were brought from Flanders, and a Flemish builder of the name of Henryke was the architect employed.* The general design was not unlike the Burse at Antwerp — a quadrangle, with a cloister running round the interior of the building, a corridor or “ pawn ”f above, and what we would call attics or bed-rooms at the top. On the south or Cornhill front was a bell-tower, and on the north, a lofty Corinthian column, each surmounted by a grasshopper — the crest of the Greshams. The bell, in Gresham’s time, was rung at 12 at noon and at 6 in the evening, j In niches within the quadrangle, and imme- diately above the cloister or covered walk, stood the statues of * Burgon’s Life of Gresham, ii. 115. f Balm (German), a path or walk : Baan (Dutch), a pathway. These were divided into stalls, and formed a kind of Bazaar, not much dissimilar perhaps from the Pantheon in Oxford-street at the present day. In 1712, there were 160 stalls let at a yearly rent of 20Z. and 30L each, (Burgon, ii. 51 3). These were all vacant in 1739, when Maitland published his History of London, (Maitland, p. 467). J Burgon, ii. 345. ROYAL EXCHANGE. 711 our Kings and Queens, from Edward tlie Confessor to Queen Elizabeth. James I., Charles I., and Charles IE, were after- wards added. The fate of Charles I.’s statue is matter of history. It was thrown down immediately after his execution, and on the pedestal these words were inscribed in gilt letters, Exit tyr annus, Regum ultimus — “ The tyrant is gone, the last of the Kings.” Hume concludes his History of Charles I. with this little anecdote of City disaffection. Of this, the first or Gresham’s Exchange, there are two curious contemporary views in the library of the Society of Antiquaries, at Somerset House. A still more interesting view, representing a full Exchange — High ’Change, as Addison calls it — was made in 1644, by Wenceslaus Hollar. It is true to Dekker’s description of the Exchange in 1607. “ At every turn,” says Dekker, “ a man is put in mind of Babel, there is such a confusion of languages.” Hollar has given the picturesque dresses of the foreign mer- chants. There was then no necessity for printed boards to point out the particular localities set apart for different countries. The merchants of Amsterdam and Antwerp, of Hamburgh, Paris, Yenice, and Vienna, were unmistakeably distinguished by the dresses of then* respective nations. Gresham’s Exchange was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666. Pepys describes its appearance as “a sad sight, nothing stand- ing there of all the statues or pillars, but Sir Thomas Gresham in the corner.” When the Royal Exchange was destroyed a second time by fire, (Jan. 10th, 1838), the statue of Sir Thomas Gresham escaped again uninjured. The second; Exchange was built by Edward Jarman or Jerman, one of the three City sur- veyors, and a name new to our list of architects. This also, like the Exchange of Gresham, was a quadrangular building, with a clock-tower of timber on the south or Cornhill front ; its inner cloister, or walk ; its pawn above, for the sale of fancy goods, gloves, ribbons, ruffs, bands, stomachers, Ac. and its series of statues (placed in niches as before) of our Kings and Queens, from Edward I. to George IV., carved for the most part by Caius Gabriel Cibber, the father of Colley. The first two Georges were by Rysbrack, and the third George by Wilton. Gresham’s statue was by Edward Pierce, and the statue of Charles II., in the centre of the quadrangle, by Grinling Gibbons, or, as Yertue believed, by Quellin, though others have assigned it to Bushnell. Jarman’s Exchange, which is said to have cost 58,962 l., was destroyed by fire on the 10th of January, 1838. Royal Exchange Buildings, facing the east front of the New * See The Fair Maid of the Exchange, by T. Hepvood, 4to, 1607. 712 ROYAL INSTITUTION. Royal Exchange, were built in 1846, from the design of Mr. J. Anson, architect. The ground is the property of Magdalen College, Oxford. Royal Institution op Great Britain, a Library, Reading and Lecture Rooms, 21, Albemarle Street, Piccadilly. Esta- blished, at a meeting held at the house of Sir Joseph Banks, March 9th, 1799, for diffusing the knowledge and facilitating the general introduction of useful mechanical inventions and improvements, &c. Count Rumford was its earliest promoter. The elegant front — a row of Corinthian columns half-engaged — was designed by Mr. Vulliamy, architect, from the Custom House at Rome ; and what before was little better than a perforated brick-wall, was thus converted into an ornamental faqade. Here is an excellent library of general reference, and a good reading room, with weekly courses of lectures, throughout the season, on Chemical Philosophy, Physiology, Chemical Science, &c. The principal lecturers are Professors Faraday and Brande. Subscribers to the Theatre Lectures only, or to the Laboratory Lectures only, pay 2 guineas ; subscribers to both pay 3 guineas for the season ; subscribers to a single course of the Theatre Lectures pay 1 guinea. A syllabus of each course may be obtained of the secretary at the Institution. The weekly evening meetings of the members are generally well attended. Mr. Harris’s printed catalogue of the Library is methodically digested and very useful. In the Laboratory Davy made his great discoveries on the metallic bases of the earths, aided by the large galvanic apparatus of the establishment. Royal Military Asylum, Chelsea. Built from the designs of John Sanders, Esq. First stone laid June 19th, 1801. Royal Humane Society. [See Humane Society]. Royal Society, Somerset House. Incorporated by royal charter, April 22nd, 1663, King Charles II. and his brother the Duke of York entering their names as members of the Society. Like the Society of Antiquaries, and perhaps all other institutions, this celebrated Society (boasting of the names of Newton, Wren, Halley, Herschell, Davy, and Watt, among its members) originated in a small attendance of men engaged in the same pursuits, and dates its beginning from certain weekly meetings held in London, as early as the year 1645 ; “sometimes,” as Wallis relates, “at Dr. Goddard’s lodgings in Wood-street ; sometimes at a convenient place in Cheapside ; and sometimes at Gresham College, or some place near adjoin- ing.” The merit of suggesting such meetings is assigned by Wallis (himself a foundation member) to Theodore Hank , a ttW-k ROYAL SOCIETY. 71 German of the Palatinate, then resident in London. The Civil War interrupted their pursuits for a time ; and Wilkins, Wallis, and Goddard removing to Oxford, a second Society was established, Seth Ward, Ralph Bathurst, Sir William Petty, and the Honourable Robert Boyle joining their number, and taking an active part in the furtherance of their views. With the Restoration of the King, a fresh accession of strength was obtained, new members enlisted, and a charter of incorporation granted — the acting charter of the Society at the present day. The notion that it was instituted “ to divert the attention of the people from public discontent,” has, I believe, been long exploded. The Society held its first meetings after its incor- poration in Gresham College ; and after the Great Fire, by permission of the Duke of Norfolk, in Arundel House. The Society subsequently returned to Gresham College; but in 1710 removed to Crane-court , Meet-street , and from thence in 1782 to its present place of meeting in Somerset House. The present entrance money is 10^., and the annual subscription 4/. ; members are elected by ballot, upon the nomination of six or more fellows. The Society consists at present of about 766 '‘fellows,” and the letters F. R. S. are generally appended to the name of a member. The patron saint of the Society is St. Andrew, and the anniversary meeting is held every 30th of November, being St. Andrew’s Day. The Scottish saint was chosen out of compliment to Sir Robert Murray, a Scot, by far the most active of the foundation members. When the Society was first established, it was severely ridiculed by the wits of the time, “ for what reason,” says Dr. Johnson, “ it is hard to conceive, since the philosophers professed not to advance doctrines, but to produce facts ; and the most zealous enemy of innovation must admit the gradual progress of experi- ence, however he may oppose hypothetical temerity.” DTsraeli has given an account of the hostilities it encountered, but, curiously enough, has overlooked the inimitable satire of Butler, called The Elephant in the Moon. The History of the Society was written by Sprat in 1667, by Birch in 1756, and by Mr. Weld in 1848. Mr. Weld has made the same omission as Mr. DTsraeli. The Philosophical Transactions of the Society are included in upwards of 150 quarto volumes. The first President was Viscount Brouncker, and the second Sir Joseph Williamson. The present President is the Earl of Rosse. The Society possesses some interesting portraits. Observe. — Three portraits of Sir Isaac Newton — one by C. Jervas, presented by Newton himself, and properly suspended over the President’s chair — a second in the Library, by D. C. Marchand — and a 714 ROYAL SOCIETY. third in the Assistant Secretary’s Office, by Vanderbank ; two portraits of Halley, by Thomas Murray and Dahl ; two of Hobbes — one taken in 1663 by, says Aubrey, “ a good band” — and the other by Gaspars, presented by Aubrey ; Sir Christopher Wren, by Kneller; Wallis, by Soest; Fiamstead, by Gibson; Robert Boyle, by F. Kerseboom, (Evelyn says it is like) ; Pepys, by Kneller ; Lord Somers, by Kneller ; Sir R. Southwell, by Kneller ; Sir H. Spelman, the antiquary, by Mytens, (bow it came here I know not); Sir Hans Sloane, by Kneller ; Dr. Birch, by Wills, the original of the mezzotint done by Faber in 1741, bequeathed by Birch ; Martin Folkes, by Hogarth ; Dr. Wollaston, by Jackson ; Sir Humphry Davy, by Sir T. Lawrence. Observe also. — The mace of silver gilt (similar to the maces of the Lord Chancellor, the Speaker, and President of the College of Physicians) presented to the Society by Charles II. in 1662. The belief so long enter- tained, that it was the mace or “bauble,” as Cromwell called it, of the Long Parliament, has been completely refuted by Mr. Weld producing the original warrant of the year 1662, for the special making of this very mace. — A solar dial, made by Sir Isaac Newton when a boy ; a reflecting telescope, made in 1671, by Newton’s own hands; MS. of the Prineipia, in Newton’s own hand- writing ; lock of Newton’s hair, silver white ; MS. of the Parentalia, by young Wren ; Charter Book of the Society, bound in crimson velvet, containing the signa- tures of the Founder and Fellows ; a Rumford fire-place, one of the first set up ; marble bust of Mrs. Somerville, by Chantre} r . The Society distributes two medals — one the Rum- ford gold medal ; the other the Copley gold medal, called by Davy “the ancient olive crown of the Royal Society.” Royal Society of Literature, 4, St. Martin’s Place, Charing Cross. Founded in 1823, “for the advancement of litera- ture,” and incorporated by royal charter, Sept. 13th, 1826. George IV. gave 1100 guineas a year to this Society, which has the merit of rescuing the last years of Coleridge’s life from complete dependence on a friend, and of placing the learned Dr. Jamieson above the wants and necessities of a man fast sinking to the grave. The annual grant of 1100 guineas was discontinued by William IV., and the Society has since sank into a Transaction Society, with a small but increasing library. The opposition of Sir Walter Scott to the formation of a literary society of this kind was highly injurious to its success. “ The immediate and direct favour of the sovereign,” says Scott, “is worth the patronage of ten thousand societies.” RUMMER TAVERN. 715 Royalty Theatre, Wellclose Square, was built by John Palmer, the actor, opened June 20th, 1787, and burnt down in April, 1826. It was originally intended for the performance of five-act pieces, and opened with As You Like it ; but the patentees of the other theatres memorialising the Lord Chamber- lain on the subject, the new theatre was restricted to pantomimes and still smaller entertainments. Ruffians’ Hall. A cant name for Wed Smithfield , “ by reason it was the usuall place of frayes and common fighting during the time that sword and bucklers were in use.”* “ As if men will needes carouse, conspire and quarrel, that they may make Ruffians Hall of hell.” — Pierce Penilesse , 4to, 1592, ( Collier’s Reprint , p. 35). Rummer Tavern (The). A famous tavern between Whitehall and Charing Cross, and two doors from Locket’s, removed to the water-side of Charing Cross in 1710, and burnt down Nov. 7th, 1750. It was kept by Samuel Prior, the uncle of Matthew Prior, the poet ; no traces exist. The Prior family ceased to be connected with it in 1702. Here Jack Sheppard committed his first robbery by stealing two silver spoons. “ My uncle, rest his soul ! when living, Might have contriv’d me ways of thriving ; Taught me with cider to replenish My vats, or ebbing tide of Rhenish. So when for hock I drew prickt white- wine. Swear’ t had the flavour, and was right wine.” Prior to Fleetwood Shepheard. “ There having been a false and scandalous report that Samuel Pryor, vintner at the Rummer, near Charing Cross, was aecused of exchanging money for his own advantage, with such as clip and deface his Majesty’s coin, and that the said Pryor had given hail to answer the same. This report being false in every part of it, if any person who shall give notice to the said Pryor, who have been the fomenters or dispersers of this malicious report, so as a legal prosecution may be made against them, the said Pryor will forthwith give 10 guineas as a reward.” — London Gazette , May 31s£ to June itli, 1688. Rupert Street, Haymarket. Built in 1667, and so called in compliment to Prince Rupert of the Rhine, son of the King of Bohemia, and nephew to Charles I. Russell Court, Drury Lane. A narrow passage for foot-pas- sengers only, leading from Drury-lane into Brydges-street, Covent Garden. [See Will’s ; Rose.] Russell Row, Shoreditch. A row of houses built in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, by one Russell, a draper, on the site of certain tenements, called from their decayed appearance, “ Rotten Row.”f Howes, p. 1023, ed. 1631. -f- Stow, p. 158. 716 RUSSELL STREET. Russell (Great) Street, Bloomsbury. Built circ. 1670; now a street of shops, but formerly “a very handsome, large, and well-built street, graced with the best buildings in all Blooms- bury , and the best inhabited by the nobility and gentry, espe- cially the north side, as having gardens behind the houses, and the prospect of the pleasant fields up to Hampstead and High- gate.”* Eminent Inhabitants. — Ralph, Duke of Montague, in Montague House , now the British Museum. Francis Sandford, author of The Genealogical History. f John Le Neve, author of Monumenta Anglicana, was horn “ in the house facing Montague Great Gate, Dec. 27th, 1679. Lewis Theobald, in Wyan s-court, Great Russell-street. Speaker Onslow, who died here in Feb. 1768. John Philip Kemble, in No. 89, on the north side, destroyed in 1847, to make way for the eastern wing of the British Museum ; during the height of the 0. P. row, the song of “Heigh Ho says Kemble,” written by Horace Smith, was caught up by the ballad-singers, and sung by them under the windows of Kemble’s house. Sir Sydney Smith, the hero of St. Jean d’Acre, in No. 72, in 1828. § Observe. — British Museum. Russell Street, Covent Garden. Built 1634, and so called after the Russells, Earls and Dukes of Bedford, the ground landlords. In 1720 “it was a fine broad street, well inhabited by tradesmen ;”|| it is now rather poorly inhabited. Remark- able Blaces in. — Will’s Coffee-house, on the north side of the west end corner of Bow-street ; Button’s Coffee-house, “ on the south side, about two doors from Covent Garden;” If Tom’s Coffee-house, on the north side. [See all these names.] Emi- nent Inhabitants. — Carr, Earl of Somerset, implicated in the murder of Sir Thomas Overbury ; he was living here, on the north side, in 1644, the year before his death. Joseph Taylor, 1634 — 1641, one of the original performers in Shakspeare’s plays. [ See Piazza.] John Evelyn. “18 Oct. 1659. I came with my wife and family to London : tooke lodgings at the 3 Feathers in Russell-street, Covent-garden, for all the winter, my son being very unwell.” Major Mohun, the actor, on the south side ; in 1665 he was assessed at 10s., the highest rate levied in the street. Thomas Betterton, the actor; he died here in 1710, and here, “at his late lodgings,” his books, prints, drawings, and paintings, were * Strype, B. iv., p. 85. J Nichols's Lit. Anec., i. 128. II Strype. f London Gazette of 1688, No. 2339. § Barrow’s Life, ii. 348. U Johnson’s Life of Addison. RUSSELL SQUARE. 717 sold after liis deatli. Tom Davies, the bookseller, on the south side, “ over against Tom’s Coffee-house,” now singularly enough the Caledonian Coffee-house. “ The very place where I was fortunate enough to he introduced to the illustrious subject of this work deserves to be particularly marked. It was No. 8. I never pass by without feeling reverence and regret.” — Boswell, Life of Johnson. “ This (1763) is to me a memorable year ; for in it I had the happiness to obtain the acquaintance of that extraordinary man whose memoirs I am now writing. Mr. Thomas Davies, the actor, who then kept a bookseller’s shop in Russell-street, Covent-garden, told me that Johnson was very much his friend, and came frequently to his house, where he more than once invited me to meet him ; hut by some unlucky accident or other, he was prevented from coming to us. At last, on Monday, the 16 th of May, when I was sitting in Mr. Davies’ back parlour, after having drunk tea with him and Mrs. Davies, Johnson unexpectedly came into the shop; and Mr. Davies having perceived him through the glass door in the room in which we were sitting, advancing towards us announced his awful approach to me somewhat in the manner of an actor, when he addresses Hamlet on the appearance of his father’s ghost, ‘ Look, my Lord, it comes ! ’ Mr. Davies mentioned my name, and respectfully introduced me to him. I was much agitated ; and recollecting his prejudice against the Scotch, of which I had heard much, I said to Davies, c Don’t tell him where I come from.’ ‘ From Scotland,’ cried Davies roguishly. ‘ Mr. Johnson,’ said I, e I do indeed come from Scotland, but I cannot help it.’ This speech was somewhat unlucky, for with that quickness of wit, for which he was so remarkable, he retorted, ‘ That, Sir, I find is what a great many of your countrymen cannot help.’ ” — Boswell , Life of Johnson. Mrs. Barton Booth, the “ Santlow fam’d for dance ” of Gay, the mistress of the great Duke of Marlborough, and subse- quently the wife of Barton Booth, the original Cato in Addison’s play of that name ; she died here in 1773. Dr, Armstrong, the poet ; he died here in 1779. Charles Lamb (Elia) at No 20 ; he describes his look out as follows: — “ Drury-lane theatre in sight from our front, and Covent Garden from our back room windows. ” There is a good deal of wit in Wycherley’s play of The Country Wife about Mr. Horner’s lodgings in the street. It is that kind of wit, however, which suffers from transplanting. Bussell Institution, Great Coram Street, Russell Square. A subscription library and reading-room so called ; the library is tolerably large and good, and the reading-room is well managed and attended. The house was erected on speculation for the purpose of holding assemblies and balls, and was pur- chased from Mr. James Burton, the builder, by the managers of the Institution, in the year 1808. Russell Square. Built circ. 1804, and so called after the Russells, Earls and Dukes of Bedford. Observe .• — Statue of Francis, 718 RUTLAND GATE. Duke of Bedford, by Sir Richard Westmacott. Eminent In- habitants. — Sir Samuel Romilly, in No. 21 ; here he died by the act of his own hand in 1818. Sir Thomas Lawrence, in No. 65, for the last twenty-five years of his life, 1805 — 1830. “We shall never forget the Cossacks mounted on their small white horses, with their long spears grounded, standing centinels at the door of this great painter, whilst he was taking the portrait of their General, Platoff.” — Rev. John Mitford, ( Gentleman’s Mag. for January, 1818). The houses at the south corner of Guildford-street were formerly known as Baltimore House , long the London residence of Wed- derburne, Lord Chancellor Loughborough. The unity of the house is still preserved in the pitch of the slated roof. Rutland House, at the upper end of Aldersgate Street, near what is now called Charter-House-square. Here, “at the back part of Rutland House,” the drama revived under Sir William Davenant — Cromwell, by the interposition of Whitelocke, con- senting to the performance of “ Declamation and Musick after the manner of the Ancients.” Rutland Gate, Knightsbridge. Built 1838 — 1840, and so called from a large house on the site, belonging to the Dukes of Rut- land. John, third Duke of Rutland, died here in 1779. The large detached house (the last on the south-west side) was built by John Sheepshanks, Esq., the distinguished patron of British Art, who has here assembled a most choice and valuable collection of pictures by modern British artists, fully equal, and in some respects superior, to the Vernon Collection at the National Gallery. The works of Leslie, R.A., and Mulready, R.A., can nowhere be studied to greater advantage. Observe. — High- land Drovers, The Shepherd’s Chief Mourner, Jack in Office, The Breakfast — all by E. Landseer, R.A.* ; Duncan Gray, and The Broken Jar, by Sir D. Wilkie ; Choosing the Wedding Gown, The Butt, Giving a Bite, First Love — all by Mr. Mul- ready, R.A. ; Scene from the Merry Wives of Windsor, Uncle Toby and Widow Wadman, both by C. R. Leslie, R.A. Mode of Admission. — A letter of introduction, (the only mode). Ryder Street (Great), St. James’s. Built 1674.1 * The picture of “ The Twa Dogs,” by E. Landseer, was Mr. Sheepshanks’s first purchase. He gave 35 guineas for it — it is now worth at least 300. + Rate-books of St. Martin’s. SADDLERS’ HALL. 719 gACKVILLE STREET, Piccadilly. The longest street in London without a turning on either side. Built circ. 1679,* hut why so called I am not aware. JEmine?ii Inhabitants . — Sir William Petty, the earliest writer on Political Economy in this country, lived, in the reigns of Charles II. and James II., in the corner house on the east side, opposite St. James’s Church ; Joseph Warton, in lodgings here, in 1792.1 Sacred Harmonic Society, established 1832, has its office and musical performances in Exeter Hall, The sacred oratorios of Handel, Haydn, Mendelssohn — as performed by the members of this Society, who compose a chorus 500 strong, and an admirable orchestra — are among the greatest treats which the lover of good music can enjoy. Concerts are given on Friday evenings throughout the London season. Saddlers’ Hall, Cheapside, (next No. 142). The Hall of the Saddlers’ Company, the 25th on the list of the City Companies, and one of the most ancient and honourable, and of the minor Companies one of the most wealthy. Frederick, Prince of Wales, (the father of George III.), was a Saddler, and from a balcony erected in front of tbe present Hall, was once a spec- tator, in disguise, of the Lord Mayor’s show. “ The Prince was desirous of seeing the Lord Mayor’s Show privately, for which purpose he entered the City in disguise. At that time it was the custom for several of the City companies, particularly those who had no barges, to have stands erected in the streets through which the Lord Mayor passed in his return from Westminster; in which the freemen of companies were accustomed to assemble. It happened that his Royal Highness was discovered by some of the Saddlers’ Company ; in consequence of which he was invited into their stand, which invitation he accepted, and the parties were so well pleased with each other that his Royal Highness was soon after chosen Master of the Company, a compliment which he also accepted.” — Edwards's Anecdotes of Painting, p. 14, 4to, 1808. In tbe great Hall of tbe Company is a full-length portrait of tbe Prince, by T. Frye. Sir Richard Blackmore, the poet and physician, lived either within, or in a house adjoining this Hall. Among the Miscellaneous Works of Tom Brown are epigrams and verses “To Sir R B1 , on the Two Wooden Horses before Saddlers’ Hall,” “To the Merry Poetaster at Saddlers' Hall in Cheapside,” and “ To a Famous Poet and Doctor, at * Rate-books of St. Martin’s. + Nichols’s Lit. Anec., ix. 473. 720 SADLER’S WELLS. Saddlers’ Hall.” In the earliest mentioned copy occurs this couplet : — i( ’Twas kindly done of the good-natur’d cits, To place before thy door a brace of tits. With a view to identify the particular dwelling of Sir Richard Blackmore, Sir Peter Laurie (himself a Saddler) caused the books of the Company to be examined at my instigation, but without success. The Company possesses an enriched funeral pall of crimson velvet, date about 1500. When funerals were conducted with more pomp and heraldic ceremony than they now are, it was customary to let the City Halls on great occa- sions for the purposes of lyings in state. The pall of the Saddlers’ and the pall of the Fishmongers’ Company (a still finer pall) were used on such occasions. Dryden’s body lay in state at the College of Physicians, Gay’s body at Exeter ’Change. Sadler’s Wells. A well-known place of public amusement : first a music house, and now a theatre, and so called from a spring of mineral water, discovered by one Sadler, in 1683, in the garden of a house which he had newly opened as a public music-room, and called by his own name as “ Sadler’s Music House.”* A pamphlet was published in 1684, giving an account of the discovery, with the virtues of the water, which is there said to be of a ferrugineous nature, and much resembling in quality and effects the water of Tunbridge Wells. It was long an outlying neighbourhood, and the old playbills of the middle of the last century commonly announce, whenever a great per- formance took place, that “a horse patrol will be sent in the New Road that night for the protection of the nobility and gentry who go from the squares and that end of the town,” and “ that the road also towards the city will be properly guarded.”f The New River flows past the Theatre, and on great occasions has been carried under the stage, and the flooring removed, for the exhibition of aquatic performances. Here Grimaldi, the famous clown, achieved his greatest triumphs. This admirable little theatre (for such it now is, under the able management of Mr. Phelps, the actor) has for some years maintained a well-deserved celebrity for the perform- ance of the plays of Shakspeare, Beaumont and Fletcher, Massinger, &c., in a way worthy of a larger theatre, and a richer, but not a more crowded or enthusiastic, audience. Of the earlier houses there are views in Wilkinson’s Londina Illustrata. The scene of Hogarth’s Evening is laid at Sadler’s Wells, in front of the Sir Hugh Myddelton public-house. * Hawkins’s History of Music, iv. 380. f Daniel’s Merrie England, i. 64. SALISBURY COURT. 721 Saffron Hill. A squalid neighbourhood between Holborn and Clerkenwell, densely inhabited by poor people and thieves. It was formerly a part of Ely-gardens, [see Ely House], and derives its name from the crops of saffron which it bore. It runs from Field-lane into Vine-street, so called from the Vine- yard attached to old Ely House. The clergymen of St. Andrew’s, Holborn, (the parish in which the purlieu lies), have been obliged, when visiting it, to be accompanied by policemen in plain clothes. Salisbury Court, Fleet Street, or, as it is now written, Salis- bury Square, Fleet Street, occupies the site of the court- yard of Salisbury, or, as it was afterwards called, Dorset House. In The Squire of Alsatia, by Shadwell, (who was an inhabitant of the court), Salisbury-court and Horset-court are used indis- criminately one for the other. Eminent Inhabitants. — Betterton, Harris, Cave Underhill, and Sandford, the actors, next the Duke's Theatre in Dorset-gardens ; Shadwell, the poet ; Lady Davenant, the widow of Sir William Davenant ; John Dryden ; * Samuel Richardson, the novelist, who lived in the square, on the west side, and had his printing-office and warehouse in Blue-Ball-court, on the east side of the square. “ My first recollection of Richardson was in the house in the centre of Salisbury Square, or Salisbury Court, as it was then called ; and of being admitted as a playful child into his study, where I have often seen Dr, Young and others. ... I recollect that he used to drop in at my father’s, for we lived nearly opposite, late in the evening to supper ; when, as he would say, he had worked as long as his eyes and nerves would let him, and was come to relax with a little friendly and domestic chat.” — Mrs. to Mrs. Barbauld, ( Richardson’s Correspondence, i). Here Richardson wrote his Pamela ; here, for a short time, Goldsmith sat as press-corrector to Richardson ; and here was printed Maitland’s London, folio, 1739, the imprint on the title page being “ London : Printed by Samuel Richardson, in Salisbury Court, near Fleet Street, 1739.” Here, in August, 1732, died Mrs. Daffy, preparer of the Elixir known by her name.f Salisbury Court Theatre, Salisbury Court, Fleet Street, was built in 1629, by Richard Gunnell and William Blagrove, players, and was originally the “ barn ” or granary at the lower end of the great back yard or court of Salisbury House. “ In the yere one thousand sixe hundred [and] twenty-nine, there was builded a new faire Play-house, near the White-Fryers. And this is the * Rate-books of St. Bride’s, Fleet-street. + Historical Register for 1732 ; the Tatler, by Nichols, vi. 41. 722 SALISBURY HOUSE. seauenteenth stage or common Play-house which hath heene new made within the space of threescore yeres within London and the suburbs.” — Howes , p. 1004, ed. 1631. “ The Play-house in Salisbury Court, in Fleete Streete, was pulled down by a company of souldiers, set on by the Sectaries of these sad times, on Saturday, the 24th day of March, 1649.” — MS. Notes by Ilowes, quoted in Collier' s Life of Shakspeare, p. ccxlii. It was bought by William Beeston, a player, in the year 1652, and rebuilt and re-opened by him in the year 1660. The Duke’s company, under Davenant, played here till their new theatre in Lincoln' ' s-Inn-fields was ready to receive them. Salis- bury-court Theatre was finally destroyed in the Great Fire, and not rebuilt. The Luke s Theatre in Dorset-gardens, opened Nov. 9th, 1671, stood facing the Thames, on a somewhat different site. Salisbury House, in the Strand, stood on the sites of Cecil- street and Salisbury-street, between Worcester House and Durham House, and was so called after Sir Robert Cecil, Earl of Salisbury, son of the great Lord Burleigh, and Lord High Treasurer to King James I., by whom it was built, when only Sir Robert Cecil. Queen Elizabeth was present at the house- warming, on the 6th of December, 1602.* It was subsequently divided into Great Salisbury House and Little Salisbury House, and finally pulled down in 1695. “ This house afterwards became two, the one being called Great Salisbury House, as being the residence of the Earl, and the other Little Salisbury House, which was used to he let out to persons of quality ; being also a large house ; and this was above 28 years ago contracted for [ i.e . 1692] of the then Earl of Salisbury for a certain term of years to build on, and accordingly it was pulled down and made into a street, called Salisbury Street, which being too narrow, and withal the deseent to the Thames too uneasy, it was not so well inhabited as was expected. Another part, viz. that next to Great Salis- bury House and over the long Gallery, was converted into an Exchange, and called the Middle Exchange, which consisted of a very large and long room (with shops on both sides) which from the Strand run as far as the water- side, where was a handsome pair of stairs to go down to the water-side, to take boat at, but it had the ill-luck to have the nick-name given it of the ‘Whore’s Nest;’ whereby, with the ill-fate that attended it, few or no people took shops there, and those that did were soon weary and left them. Inso- much that it lay useless except three or four shops towards the Strand ; and coming into the Earl’s hands, this Exchange, with Great Salisbury House, and the houses fronting the street are pulled down, and now converted into a fair street called ‘ Cecil Street,’ running down to the Thames, having very good houses fit for persons of repute, and will he better ordered than Salisbury Street was.” — Strype , B. iv., p. 120. In Little Salisbury House lived William Cavendish, third Earl * Nichols’s Progresses of Queen Elizabeth, vol. iv., part i., p. 31 ; Collier’s Annals, i. 323. SALTERS’ HALL. 723 of Devonshire, the father of the first Duke of Devonshire, who played so important a part in the Revolution of 1688. “It happened about two or three days after his Majesty’s [Charles II.’s] happy returne, that as he was passing in his coach through the Strand, Mr. Hobbes was standing at Little Salisbury House Gate (where his Lord [the E. of Devonshire] then lived) ; the King espied him, putt off his hat very kindly to him, and asked him how he did.” — Aubrey's Life of Hobbes. There is a good river-front view of the house in Wilkinson’s Londina Illustrata, from a drawing by Hollar, in the Pepysian Library at Cambridge. Salisbury Square, Fleet Street. [See Salisbury Court.] Salisbury Street, Strand. Built circ. 1678,* and so called from Salisbury House, the residence of Robert Cecil, first Earl of Salisbury of the Cecil family, (d. 1612). The present street was rebuilt by Payne in the early part of the reign of George III. Salters’ Hall, Oxford Court, St. S within ’s Lane. The Hall of the Master, Wardens, and Commonalty of the Art or Mystery of Salters, the 9th on the list of the Twelve Great Companies of the City of London. The present Hall was built by Henry Carr, architect, and opened May 23rd, 1827. Oxford- court, in which the Hall is situated, was so called from John de Vere, the sixteenth Earl of Oxford of that name, who died in 1562, and was originally the site of the inn or hostel of the priors of Tortington, in Sussex. Empson and Dudley, notorious as the unscrupulous instruments of Henry VII. ’s avarice in the later and more unpopular years of his reign, lived in Walbrook, in “ two fair houses,” with doors leading into the garden of the prior of Tortington’s (now Salters’) garden. “ Here they met,” says Stow, “ and consulted of matters at their pleasures.”! Part of Salters’ Hall was let in the reign of William III, to a Protestant congregation of the Presbyterian persuasion. Tom Brown alludes to the sermons here in a well-known passage : — “ A man that keeps steady to one party, though he happens to be in the wrong, is still an honest man. He that goes to a Cathedral in the morning, and Salters’ Hall in the afternoon, is a rascal by his own confession.” — Tom Brown's Laconics , (Works, iv. 23, 8vo, 1709). Lilly, the astrologer, was a freeman of this Company. Observe. — Portrait of Adrian Charpentier, the painter of the clever and only good portrait of Roubiliac, the sculptor. Saltero’s (Don). [See Don Saltero’s.] Sam’s Coffee House, in Exchange Alley ; ditto, in Ludgate Street. See, in the State Poems, (p. 258, 8vo, 1697), “ A * Rate-hooks of St. Martin’s. ii 2 f Stow, p. 84. 724 SARACEJN’S HEAD. Satyr upon the French King ; writ after the Peace was con- cluded at Keswick, anno 1697, by a Non-Swearing Parson, and said to he drop’d out of his Pocket at Sam’s Coffee House.” See also State Poems, p. 182, 8vo, 1703. “ While you at Sam’s like a grave doctor sate Teaching the minor clergy how to prate .” — The Observator. “ There are now two large Mulberry Trees growing in a little yard about sixteen foot square at Sam’s Coffee House in Ludgate Street .” — The City Gardener , by Thomas Fairchild , p. 53, 8vo, 1722. Sanatorium, Devonshire Place, New Road. An hospital for invalids, on the principles of a club, and open only to members or their nominees. The total expense to invalids, when in the house, is 2 guineas per week. There is a resident medical officer. Sanctuary, Westminster. A privileged precinct, under the protection of the abbot and monks of Westminster, and adjoin- ing Westminster Abbey on the west and north side. The privileges survived the Reformation, and the bulk of the houses, which composed the precinct, were not taken down till 1750.* The open space in front of Westminster Hospital is still called the Sanctuary. In this Sanctuary Edward V. was “ born in sorrow, and baptized like a poor man’s child and here Skelton, the rude-railing satirist, found shelter from the revengeful hand of Cardinal Wolsey. Sans Souci Theatre. A theatre of some distinction in the early part of the present century, (now no longer standing), first erected in the Strand, opposite Beaufort-buildings, and after- wards removed to Leicester-place, Leicester-square. Saracen’s Head. A celebrated London sign, and common formerly in several streets, but now nearly confined to one celebrated tavern on Snow-hill, (though now in Skinner-street), “ without Newgate.” “ Next to this church [St. Sepulchre’s] is a fair and large inn for receipt of travellers, and hath to sign the Saracen’s head.” — Stow, p. 143. u Nearer Aldgate is the Saracen’s Head Inn, which is very large and of a considerable trade.” — Strype, B. ii., p. 82. “ Methinks, quoth he, it fits like the Saracen’s Head without Newgate.” — Tarlton’s Jests , 4 to, 1611. “ Do not undervalue an enemy by whom you have been worsted. When our countrymen came home from fighting with the Saracens, and were beaten by them, they pictured them with huge, big, terrible faces (as you still see * See the oath on admission in Lansdowne MS., No. 24, art. 84. SAVILLE ROW. 725 the sign of the Saracen’s Head is), when in truth they were like other men. But this they did to save their own credits.” — Seidels Table Talk. “ At the Saracen’s Head, Tom pour’d in ale and wine, Until his face did represent the sign.” Osborn’s Works, p. 538, 8vo, 1701. The sign is still surly and Saracenic enough, and reminds one of a passage in Fennor’s Counter’s Commonwealth, where a Ser- jeant of the compter is described with “ a phisnomy much resembling the Saracen’s head without Newgate, and a mouth as wide vaulted as that without Bishopsgate. ” * Saville Row, Burlington Gardens, was so called after the heiress of the Savilles, Dorothy Saville, only daughter and heir of the celebrated George Saville, Marquis of Halifax, and wife of Richard Boyle, Earl of Burlington, the architect. “ A new Pile of buildings is going to be carry’d on near Swallow Street by a Plan drawn by the Right Hon. the Earl of Burlington, and which is to be called Saville Street.” — The Daily Post , March 12 th y 1733. Eminent Inhabitants . — Henrietta Hobart, Countess of Suffolk, and mistress of George II. Bryan Fairfax, “ at the south end, in an excellent well-built brick house, held by lease under the Earl of Burlington,” as I gather from an advertisement of the sale of his pictures inserted in the Public Advertiser of April 5th, 1756. Richard Brinsley Sheridan, in No. 14, in 1814, and subsequently in No. 17, where he died. In a short note to Mr. Rogers, dated Saville-row, May 15th, 1816, six weeks before his death, Sheridan says — “ They are going to put the carpets out of window and break into Mrs. S.’s room and take me ; for God’s sake let me see you.” A present of 1507, from Mr. Rogers arrived in time. Saviour’s (St.), Southwark. The church of the priory of St. Mary Overy , and first erected into a parish church by Act of Parliament, 32 Henry VIII., (1540), when the two parishes of St. Margaret and St. Mary Magdalen in Southwark were united, and the church of the priory of St. Mary Overy made the parish church, and called by the name of St. Saviour’s. “ 1208, [10th King John]. And Seynt Marie Overeye was that yere begonne.” — Chronicle of London, {Nicolas, p. 7). “ St. Mary Overy, near London Bridge, is a very large church, and deserving of much attention ; though its exterior, from various patching, is not very promising, the interior is fine. The nave and lower part of the tower is Early English of late character, and there are various additions to several parts of the later styles, and also introductions of windows.” — Rickman. * Fennor’s Counter’s Commonwealth, p. 3, 4to, 1617. 726 SAVIOUR’S (ST.) After Westminster Abbey, St. Saviour’s, Southwark, contains the finest specimen of Early English in London. Nothing, how- ever, remains of the old church but the choir and the Lady chapel. The nave was taken down about twenty years ago, and the present unsightly structure erected in its stead. The altar- screen in the choir (much like that at Winchester) was erected at the expense of Fox, Bishop of Winchester, (d. 1528). In the string-course is Fox’s favourite device, the pelican. The choir was restored in 1822, and the Lady chapel in 1832. In the reign of Mary I. the Lady chapel of St. Saviour’s was used by Gardiner, Bishop of Winchester, (d. 1555), as a consistorial court. Observe. — Effigy of knight cross-legged, in north aisle of choir. — John Gower, the poet, (d. 1402) ; a perpendicular monument, originally erected on the north side of the church, in the chapel of St. John, where Gower founded a chantry. The monument was removed to its present site, and repaired and coloured in 1832, at the expense of Gower, first Duke of Sutherland. Gower’s monument has always been taken care of. Peacham speaks of it in his Compleat Gentleman, p. 95, as ‘‘lately repaired by some good Benefactor.” “ He [Gower] lieth under a tomb of stone, with his image also of stone over him : the hair of his head, auburn, long to his shoulders but curling up, and a small forked beard ; on his head a chaplet like a coronet of four roses ; a habit of purple, damasked down to his feet ; a collar of esses gold about his neck ; under his head the likeness of three books which he com- piled.” — Stow, p. 152. Lancelot Andrews, Bishop of Winchester, (d. 1626) ; a black and white marble monument in the Lady chapel, with his effigy at full-length. When St. John’s chapel was taken down his leaden coffin was found, with no other inscription than L. A., (the initials of "his name). — John Trehearne, gentleman porter to James I.; half-length of himself and wife, (upright). — John Bingham, saddler to Queen Elizabeth and James I., (d. 1625). — Alderman Humble and his wife, (temp. James I.), with some pretty verses, beginning — “ Like to the damask rose you see.” William Austin, (d. 1633) ; a kind of harvest-home monument, in north transept ; this Austin was a gentleman of fortune and importance in Southwark in the reigns of James I. and Charles I. — Lockyer, the famous empiric in Charles II. ’s reign, (d. 1672) ; a rueful full-length figure in north transept. Eminent Persons buried in, and graves unmarked. — Sir Edward Dyer, the poet, in the chancel, May 11th, 1607 ; he lived and died in Winchester House, adjoining. Edmund Shakspeare, (the poet’s youngest brother), buried in the church, Dec. 31st, 1607; SAVOY (THE). 727 he was a “player.” Lawrence Fletcher, one of the leading shareholders in the Globe and Blackfriars Theatres, and Shakspeare’s “fellow;” buried in the church, Sept. 12th, 1608. Philip Henslowe, the manager, so well known by his curious Account Book or Diary ; buried in the chancel, Jan. 1615-16. John Fletcher, (Beaumont and Fletcher), buried in the church, Aug. 29th, 1625. Philip Massinger, (the dramatic poet), buried in the churchyard, March 18th, 1638-9. Dr. Henry Sacheverell describes himself in his famous sermon, preached at St. Paul’s, Nov. 5th, 1709, as “ Fellow of Magdalen College, Oxford, and Chaplain of St. Saviour, Southwark.” Savoy (The), in the Strand. A house or palace on the river side, built in 1245, by Peter, Earl of Savoy and Richmond, uncle unto Eleanor, wife to King Henry III. The earl bestowed it on the fraternity of Montjoy, (Fratres de Monte Jovis, or Priory de Cornu to by Havering at the Bower), of whom it was bought by Queen Eleanor, for Edmund, Earl of Lancaster, second son of King Henry III., (d. 1295). Henry Plantagenet, fourth Earl and first Duke of Lancaster, “ repaired, or rather new built it,” and here John, King of France, was confined after the battle of Poictiers, (1356). The King, not long after his release, died on a visit to this country in his ancient prison of the Savoy. Blanch Plantagenet, daughter and co-heir of Henry, first Duke of Lancaster, married John Plantagenet, Duke of Lancaster, fourth son of King Edward III., (“ Old John of Gaunt ”) ; and while the Savoy was in his possession it was burnt and entirely destroyed by Wat Tyler and* his rebels, (1381). The Savoy lay long neglected after this, nor would it appear, indeed, to have been rebuilt, or indeed employed for any particular pur- pose before 1505, when it was endowed by Henry VII. as an Hospital of St. John the Baptist, for the relief of 100 poor people. The King makes particular mention of it in his will. At the suppression of the hospital in 1553, the beds, bedding, and other furniture, were given by Edward VI. to the Royal Hospitals of Bridewell and St. Thomas. Queen Mary re-endowed it, and it was continued and maintained, not suppressed, as Pennant says, by Queen Elizabeth. Fleetwood, the Recorder of London, describes the Savoy, in 1581, in a letter to Lord Burleigh, as a nursery of rogues and masterless men : “ The chief nurserie of all these evell people is the Savoy, and the brick-kilnes near Islington.” The Queen, when taking the air, was troubled with their attendance ; complaints were made, and warrants issued for the apprehension of all rogues and mas- terless people. But the master of the Savoy Hospital was 728 SAVOY (THE). unwilling to allow of their apprehension in his precinct, as he was “ sworne to lodge claudicantes, egrotantes et peregrinantes. ” * At the Restoration the meetings of the commissioners for the revision of the Liturgy took place in the Savoy, (April 15th — July 25th, 1661). Twelve bishops appeared for the Esta- blished Church ; Calamy, Baxter, Reynolds, and others, for the Presbyterians. This was called “The Savoy Conference,” and under that name is matter of English history. Fuller, the author of The Worthies, was at this time lecturer at the Savoy, and Cowley, the poet, a candidate at Court for the office of master. “Savoy missing Cowley” is commemorated in the State Poems of that time. The successful candidate was Dr. Killigrew, the father of Anne Killigrew, who is buried in the chapel, and who still lives in the poetry of Dry den. King Charles II. established a French church here, called The French Church in the Savoy . The first sermon was preached by Dr. Durel, Sunday, July 14th, 1661. The sick and wounded in the great Dutch War of 1666 were lodged in the Savoy. “ This Savoy House is a very great and at this present a very ruinous building. In the midst of its buildings is a very spacious Hall, the walls three foot broad at least, of stone without and brick and stone inward. The ceiling is very curiously built with wood, and having knobs in due places hanging down, and images of angels holding before their breasts coats of arms, hut hardly discoverable. On one is a cross gules between four stars or else mullets. It is covered with lead, but in divers places perished where it lies open to the weather. This large Hall is now divided into several apartments. A cooper hath a part of it for stowing of his hoops and for his work. Other parts of it serve for two Marshalseas for keeping Prisoners, as Deserters, men prest for military service, Dutch recruits, &c. Towards the east end of this Hall is a fair cupola with glp,ss windows, hut all broken, which makes it probable the Hall was as long again ; since cupolas are wont to be built about the middle of great halls. In this Savoy, how ruinous soever it is, are divers good houses. First the King’s Printing Press for Proclamations, Acts of Parliament, Gazettes, and such like public papers ; next a Prison ; thirdly a Parish Church [St. Mary-le-Savoy], and three or four of the churches and places for religious assemblies, viz. for the French, for Dutch, for High Ger- mans and Lutherans ; and lastly, for the Protestant Dissenters. Here be also harbours for many refugees and poor people.” — Strype, B. iv., p. 107, ed. 1720. “ On Tuesday a person going into the Savoy to demand a debt due from a person who had taken sanctuary there, the inhabitants seized him, and after some consultation agreed, according to the usual custom, to dip him in tar and roll him in feathers, after which they carried him in a wheelbarrow into the Strand, and hound him fast to the Maypole, but several constables and others coming in, dispersed the rabble and rescued the person from their abuses.” — The Postman for July , 1696, No. 180. “ By authority. — Marriages performed with the utmost privacy, decency and regularity, at the Ancient Royal Chapel of St. John the Baptist in the * Ellis’s Letters, ii. 285. SCHOOL OF DESIGN. 729 Savoy, where regular and authentic registers have been kept from the time of the Reformation (being two hundred years and upwards) to this day. The expense not more than one guinea, the five shilling stamp included. There are five private ways by land to this chapel, and two by water .” — The Public Advertiser of Jan. 2nd, 1754.* Savoy Church. [See St. Mary le Savoy.] Scalding Alley, in the Poultry, was so called from the poul- terers scalding or scorching their poultry there. [See Poultry.] Schomberg House, Pall Mall, Nos. 81 and 82, on the south side, and so called after Frederick de Schomberg, Duke of Schomberg, killed at the battle of the Boyne in 1690. It was built, I believe, by his son, the third and last duke, who died in 1719. A party of disbanded soldiers drew themselves up before it in 1699, and threatened to pull it down;t but it escaped entire, and is still, though divided into more than one tenement, a very interesting specimen of a ducal residence of the reign of William III. The bas-relief of Painting over the central doorway was set up by John Astley, the painter, (d. 1787), who divided the house into three, and fitted up the centre most whimsically for his own use. The west wing of the build- ing was inhabited by Gainsborough, the painter, and the centre, after Astley’s death, by Cosway, the painter. Messrs. Payne and Foss, the eminent booksellers, now occupy a part of it with their valuable collection of old books. School of Design (Government), in Somerset House, was established in 1837, by, and under the superintendence of, the Board of Trade for the Improvement of Ornamental Art, with regard especially to the staple manufactures of this country. The school is maintained by an annual grant from Parliament of 150CB. In connection with the head school at Somerset House, schools have been formed in many of the principal manufacturing districts throughout the country. There is also a branch school at Spitalfields. Mode of Admission. — The recommendation of a householder. There is a morning school for females, open daily, from 11 to 2 o’clock, Saturdays excepted. The school for males is open to the inspection of the public every Monday, between 11 and 3. There is also a class for ladies to learn wood-engraving. The course of instruction comprehends the following classes : — Elementary drawing, in outline with pencil ; shading with chalk after * Of the Savoy there is a scarce etching by Hollar (a river front) done in 1650, and a most careful survey and view by Vertue, done in 1736, for the Vetusta Monumenta. f Vernon Corr., ii. 319. i i 3 730 SCOTLAND YARD, engraved examples ; shading from casts ; chiaroscuro painting ; colouring ; drawing the figure after engraved copies ; drawing the figure from casts ; painting the figure from casts ; geo- metrical drawing applied to ornament ; perspective ; modelling from engraved copies, design, pear- ing about this time, (some say the very next day), with a mar- ginal note in it, “ Women-actors notorious whores,” for which he lost his ears. Here, in 1652, died Inigo Jones, the great architect. Here in 1658, Oliver Cromwell’s body lay in state. “ This folly and profusion so far provoked the people that they threw dirt in the night on his escutcheon that was placed over the great gate of Somerset House.” — Ludlow , ii. 615. On the 2nd of November, 1660, Henrietta Maria resumed her residence in Somerset House, and Cowley wrote a copy of verses on the repairs she had made in her old palace. Here, in May, 1665, on Queen Henrietta Maria’s farewell to England, Catha- rine of Braganza, the Queen of Charles II., took up her residence. Here, in January, 1669-70, the body of Monk, Duke of Albemarle, lay in state. Here, on the 17th of October, 1678, the famous Protestant martyr, Sir Edmondbury Godfrey, is said to have been murdered, and his body afterwards to have been carried hence to the field where it was found near Primrose Bill. Two of the supposed murderers were attendants belong- ing to the chapel in Somerset House. After Catharine of Braganza left England for Portugal, in May, 1692, (never to return), Somerset House became a series of lodgings (as Hamp- ton Court at the present day) for some of the nobility and poorer persons about the Court ; though it would appear to have been always recognised as part of the jointure of the consort of the sovereign. Lewis de Duras, Earl of Feversham, who commanded King James’s troops at the battle of Sedgemoor, and Lady Arlington, the widow of Secretary Bennet, were living here in 1708. § Here, in the reign of King George III., Charlotte Lenox, author of the Female Quixote, had apartments. Buckingham House, in St. James’s Park, was settled on Queen * Burleigh’s Diary in Murden, p. 811. 4 Stow, by Howes, p. 1026, ed. 1631. £ Ellis’s Letters, iii. 271, 2nd Series. § Hatton, p. 633. 756 SOMERSET HOUSE. Charlotte, in lieu of Somerset House, by an act passed in 1775, and the old palace of the Protector and of the Queens of England immediately destroyed, to erect the present pile of public offices still distinguished as Somerset House. Of this very interesting old building there are several views ; that by Moss is considered the best. One by KnyfF is early and curious. The picture at Dulwich (engraved in Wilkinson) represents the river front before Inigo Jones’s chapel and alterations destroyed the uniform character of the building. [See Denmark House ; Somerset Stairs.] Somerset House, in the Strand, (present building). A pile of public offices, erected between the years 1776 and 1786, on the site of the palace of the Protector Somerset, which had been the residence of the Queens of England, from Anne of Denmark to the Queen of George III. [See preceding article.] The architect was Sir William Chambers, the son of a Scottish merchant residing at Stockholm. He was born in 1726, died in 1796, and is best known as the architect of Somerset House. The general proportions of the building are good, and some of the details of great elegance. The entrance archway or vesti- bule from the Strand has deservedly found many admirers.* The terrace elevation towards the Thames was made, like the Adelphi Terrace of the brothers Adam, in anticipation of the long projected embankment of the river, and is one of the noblest fagades in London. The building is in the form of a quadrangle, with wings, and contains within its walls, from 10 to 4 every day, about 900 government officials, maintained at an annual cost of something like 275,0001. The Strand front is occupied by the apartments of several learned societies. Observe, under the vestibule, on your left as you enter, (distinguished by a bust of Sir Isaac Newton), the entrance-doorway to the apartments of the Royal Society and Society of Antiquaries ; Herscheil and Watt, and Davy and Wollaston, and Walpole and Hallam have often entered by this door. Observe, under the same vestibule, on your right as you enter, (now the School of Design, &c., distinguished by a bust of Michael Angelo), the entrance- doorway of the apartments, from 1780 to 1830, of the Royal Academy of Arts. Some of the best pictures of the English school have passed under this doorway to the great room of the yearly exhibition ; and under the same doorway, and up the same steps, Reynolds, Wilkie, Elaxman, and Chantrey have often passed. The last and best of Reynolds’s Discourses * The key-stone masques of river deities on the Strand fiont were carved by Carlini and Wilton, two of the early Royal Academicians. SOMERSET HOUSE. 757 were delivered, by Sir Joshua himself, in the great room of the Academy, at the top of the building. [< See Astronomical Society; Geographical Society; Geological Society], The principal government offices in the building are the Audit Office; the office of the Duchy of Cornwall, for the management of the estates of the Prince of Wales, who is also Duke of Corn- wall ; the Legacy Duty Office, where the several payments are made on bequests by wills of personal property ; the office of Stamps, Taxes, and Excise, or the Ir o la^d Revenue Office, where I ryU-n' stamps on patents, deeds, newspapers, and receipts are issued, and public taxes and excise duties received from the several district collectors. The Admiralty occupies more than a third of the building, and is a branch (rather, perhaps, the body) of the Admiralty at Whitehall. The Poor Law Commission Office is the head quarters of the Commissioners for regulating the admi- nistration of the law with respect to the poor ; and the Registrar- General’s Office is for the registration of the births, marriages, and deaths of the United Kingdom. The east wing of the building, erected 1829, is occupied by King's College . The bronze statue of George III., and figure of Father Thames, were cast by John Bacon, R.A. Observe , a little above the entrance-door to the Stamps and Taxes, a white watch-face, regarding which the popular belief has been, and is, that it was left there by a labour- ing man who fell from a scaffold at the top of the building, and was only saved from destruction by the ribbon of his watch, which caught in a piece of projecting work. In thankful remem- brance (so the story runs) of his wonderful escape, he after- wards desired that his watch might be placed as near as possible to the spot where his life had been saved. Such is the story told fifty times a-week to groups of gaping listeners — a story I am sorry to disturb, for the watch of the labouring man is nothing more than a watch-face, placed by the Royal Society as a meridian mark for a portable transit instrument in one of the windows of their ante-room. To this account of Somerset House I may add a little circumstance of interest which I was told by an old clerk on the establishment of the Audit Office. “ When I first came to this building,” he said, “ I was in the habit of seeing, for many mornings, a thin, spare, naval officer, with only one arm, enter the vestibule at a smart step, and make direct for the Admiralty, over the rough round stones of the quadrangle, instead of taking what others generally took, and continue to take, the smooth pavement at the sides. His thin, frail figure shook at every step, and I often wondered why he chose so rough a footway ; but I ceased to wonder when I heard that the thin, frail officer was no other than Lord Nelson — who 758 SOPER LANE. always took,” continued my informant, “the nearest way to the place he wanted to go to.” Somerset Coffee House, in the Strand, east corner of the entrance to King’s College. The letters of Junius were occa- sionally left at the bar of this coffee-house, sometimes at the bar of the New Exchange, and now and then at Munday’s, in Maiden-lane. The waiters received occasional fees for taking them in. Somerset Stairs, Somerset House. “ Neander was pursuing this discourse so eagerly, that Eugenius had called to him twice or thrice, ere he took notice that the barge stood still, and that they were at the foot of Somerset Stairs, where they had appointed it to land. The company were all sorry to separate so soon, though a great part of the evening was already spent ; and stood awhile looking hack on the water, upon which the moon-heams played and made it look like floating quicksilver ; at last they went up through a crowd of French people who were merrily dancing in the open air, and walking thence to the Piazza, they parted there.” — Dry den's Essay on DramaticTc Poesy , 4 to, 1668. Somers Town. A poorly inhabited suburb of London, on the north-west side, and so called from the noble family of Somers, whose freehold property it is, or was, when it was named. “ The Brill,” or, as Dr. Stukeley has called it, Cessar’s Camp, is a part of the present Somers Town. Soper Lane, now Queen Street, Cheapside. “Soper Lane, which lane took that name not of soap-making as some have supposed, hut of Alen le Sopar, in the 9th of Edward II.” — Stow , p. 94. “ In this Soper’s Lane the Pepperers anciently dwelt, wealthy Tradesmen who dealt in spices and Drugs. Two of this trade w r ere divers times Mayors in the reign of King Henry III ; viz. Andrew Bocherel and John de Gisorcio or Gisors. In the reign of King Edward II. anno 1315, they came to be governed by rules and orders, which are extant in one of the hooks of the Chamber under this title, Ordinatio Piperarum de Soper's Lane ." — Strype , B. iii., p. 15. Sir Baptist Hicks, Viscount Campden, of the time of James I., whose name is preserved in HicJcs's Hall and Camp den-hill, Kensington, was a mercer, at the sign of the White Bear, at Soper-lane end, in Cheapside.* South Sea House, north-east end of Threadneedle Street. The Hall or place of business of “The Governor and Com- pany of Merchants of Great Britain trading to the South Seas and other parts of America.” The Company, incorporated in 1711, consisted of holders of navy and army bills and other unfunded debts, to the amount of 9,177,9 671. 1 5s. who were Strype, B. i., p. 287. SOUTH SEA HOUSE. 759 induced to fund their debts on reasonable terms, by being incorporated into a Company, with the monopoly of the trade to the South Sea and Spanish America. Government, says Mr. M‘Culloch, was far from blameless in the affair. The word “ bubble,” as applied to any ruinous speculation, was first applied to the transactions of the South Sea Company, and, often as the word has been used since, never was it more applicable to any scheme than to the South Sea project of the disastrous year of 1720. « When Sir Isaac Newton was asked about the continuance of the rising of the South Sea Stock, he answered, that he could not calculate the madness of the people.” — Spence's Anecdotes , p. 368. “ What made Directors cheat in South-Sea year, To live on venison when it sold so dear.” Pope, (Worlcs,. iv. 242). “In the extravagance and luxury of the South Sea Year, the price of a haunch of venison was from three to five Pounds.” — Pope, ( Worlcs, iv. 242). Adam Anderson, the author of the History of Commerce, (d. 1765), was forty years a clerk in the South Sea House. The Company is no longer a trading body, and its remaining stock has since been converted into annuity stock. The affairs of the Company are managed under an act of Parliament, passed in 1753.“ “ At the north east extremity of Threadneedle Street, where it enters Bishopsgate Street is situated the South Sea House. This house stands upon a large extent of ground ; running hack as far as Old Broad Street facing St. Peter le Poor. The hack-front was formerly the Excise Office ; then the South Sea Company’s Office ; and hence is distinguished hy the name of the Old South Sea House. As to the new building in which the Company’s affairs are now transacted, it is a magnificent structure.” — Noortkouch' s History of London, p. 569, 4to, 1773. (i Reader, in thy passage from the Bank — where thou hast been receiving thy half-yearly dividend (supposing thou art a lean annuitant like myself) — to the Flower Pot to secure a place for Dalston, or Shaklewell, or some other thy suburban retreat northerly : didst thou never observe a melan- choly looking, handsome, brick and stone edifice, to the left — where Thread- needle Street abuts upon Bishopsgate? I dare say thou hast often admired its magnificent portals ever gaping wide, and disclosing to view a grave court, with cloisters, and pillars, with few or no traces of goers-in or comers out — a desolation something like Balclutha’s. “ This was once a house of trade, — a centre of busy interests. The throng of merchants was here— the quick pulse of gain — and here some forms of business are still kept up, though the soul he long since fled. Here are still to he seen stately porticos, imposing staircases, offices as roomy as the state apartments in palaces — deserted, or thinly peopled with a few straggling clerks ; the still more sacred interiors of court and committee-rooms, with venerable faces of beadles, door-keepers — directors seated on forms on solemn days (to proclaim a dead dividend,) at long worm-eaten tables, that have been mahogany, with tarnished gilt-leather coverings, supporting massy silver inkstands long since dry ; the oaken wainscot hung with pictures of 760 SOUTHAMPTON HOUSE. deceased governors and sub-governors, of Queen Anne, and the two first monarchs of the Brunswick dynasty ; huge charts, which subsequent disco- veries have antiquated ; — dusty maps of Mexico, dim as dreams, — and sound- ings of the Bay of Panama ! The long passages hung with buckets, appended in idle row, to walls, whose substance might defy any, short of the last, con- flagration : — with vast ranges of cellerage under all, where dollars and pieces of eight once lay, an ‘ unsunned heap,’ for Mammon to have solaced his soli- tary heart withal, — long since dissipated, or scattered into air at the blast of the breaking of that famous Bubble.” — Charles Lamb, ( Elia, First Series'). South Street, Grosyenor Square. Eminent Inhabitants . — The Duke of Orleans, (Philippe Egalite), at No. 31, now Lord Kilmaine’s. The Dowager Lady Holland, at No. 33. Lord Melbourne, at No. 39, during the whole of the Melbourne administration, (1835-41). It is said that Lord M. for many years never gave a dinner, or even had a joint cooked for him- self, in this house. “ His cooks with long disuse their trade forgot ; Cool was his kitchen.” — Southampton House, Holborn. The town-house of the Wriothes- leys, Earls of Southampton, on the south side of Holborn, a little above Holborn-bars. It was taken down circ. 1652. Parts still remain in Mr. Griffith’s, a whipmaker’s warehouse, 322, Plolborn, and what is now called Mill’s Tavern, No. 47, South- ampton-buildings , Holborn. On the 17th of May, 1847, Mr. Griffith showed me what is still called “the Chapel” of the house, with rubble walls and a flat-timbered roof. Mr. G. informed me, at the same time, that his father remembered a pulpit in the chapel, and that he himself, when forming the foundation of a workshop adjoining, had seen portions of a circular building which he supposed to be part of the ruins of the old Temple mentioned by Stow. ie Beyond the bars [Holborn Bars] had ye in old time a Temple built by the Templars whose order first began in 1118, in the 19th of Henry I. This Temple was left and fell to ruin since the year 1184, when the Templars had built them a new Temple in Fleet Street, near to the river of Thames. A great part of this old Temple was pulled down hut of late in the year 1595. Adjoining to this old Temple was sometime the Bishop of Lincoln’s Inn, wherein he lodged when he repaired to this city. Robert de Curars, Bishop of Lincoln, built it about the year 1147. John Russell, Bishop of Lincoln, Chancellor of England in the reign of Richard III., was lodged there. It hath of late years belonged to the Earls of Southampton, and therefore called South- ampton House. Master Ropar hath of late much built there ; by means whereof part of the ruins of the old Temple were seen to remain, built of Caen stone, round in form as the new Temple by Temple Bar, and . other Temples in England.” — Stow, p. 163. “ Southampton House was conveyed in Fee to the Lord Wriothesley, Earl of Southampton, and Lord Chancellor in the time of King Edward VI. For which the Bishop hath no other house in or near London, as is thought.”— Strype, B. iv., p. 69. SOUTHAMPTON BUILDINGS. 761 C£ And lately it [Southampton House] hath bin quite taken down and turned to several private tenements.” — Howell’s Londinopolis, p. 344, fol. 1657. “ Tuesday, 28th August [1649]. There is a well found by a souldier (and so called the Souldier’s Well) near Southampton House in Holburne, doth, wonderfull cures to the blind and lame.” — Perfect Occurrences from, Aug. 2ith to Aug. 31 st, 1649. Southampton House, Bloomsbury, occupied the whole north side of the present Bloomsbury -square. “ Southampton House, a large building with a spacious court before it for the reception of coaches, and a curious garden behind, which lieth open to the fields, enjoying a wholesome and pleasant air.” — Strype, B. iv., p. 84. tl 2 Oct. 1664. To my Lord Sandwich’s through my Lord Southampton’s new buildings in the fields behind Gray’s Inn, and indeed they are very great and a noble work.” — Pepys. “ 9 Feb. 1664. Din’d at my Lo. Treasurers the Earle of Southampton in Blomesbury, where he was building a noble Square or Piazza, a little Towne ; his owne house stands too low, some noble roomes, a pretty cedar chapell, a naked garden to the north but good aire.” — Evelyn. u If you’re displeas’d with what you’ve seen to night Behind Southampton House we’ll do you right ; Who is’t dares draw ’gainst me and Mrs. Knight ?” Epilogue to Mountfort's Greenwich Parle, 4to, 1691. [See Bedford House, Bloomsbury.] Southampton Buildings (Old), Holborn. A row of tenements so called after the Wriothesleys, Earls of Southampton, and entitled “ Old ” to distinguish them from the “ New ” buildings in High Holborn, erected by Thomas Wriothesley, Earl of Southampton, (d. 1667), the son of Shakspeare’s patron, and the father of Lady Rachel Russell. [ See Southampton House, Holborn.] “ This yeare [ 1 650] Jacob, a Jew, opened a Coffey house at the Angel, in the Parish of S. Peter in the East Oxon, and there it was by some, who delighted in Noveltie, drank. When he left Oxon, he sold it in Old Southampton buildings in Holborne near London, and was living there, 1671.” — Autobio- graphy of Antony a Wood, ii. 65. Here, in the house of a relative, Ludlow, the Parliamentary general, lay concealed, from the Restoration to the period of his escape.* Here, in the Southampton Coffee-house, Hazlitt has laid the scene of his Essay on Coffee-house Politicians ; and here he occasionally held a kind of evening levee. t On the 16th of August, 1673, the Holborn property of the South- ampton family was assigned, in trust, to Arthur, Earl of Essex, Sir Philip Warwick, Knight, and Thomas Corderoy, gent., for * Patmore, in Jerrold’s Mag., No. 2. 't Ludlow’s Memoirs, Yevay ed., iii. 13. 762 SOUTHWARK. and on behoof of Elizabeth, Countess-dowager of Northumber- land, on her marriage with the Honourable Ralph Montague, eldest son and heir of Edward, Lord Montague. On the 17th July, 1690, it was assigned in mortgage by Ralph, Earl of Montague, and Elizabeth, Countess of Montague, to Edward Rudge and Edward Littleton. In 1723, it was granted by John, Duke of Montague, as a portion to his eldest daughter, Lady Isabella, on her marriage to William, Duke of Man- chester. On the 22nd of March, 1727, it was sold and assigned in fee by William and Isabella, Duke and Duchess of Man- chester ; John, Duke of Montague ; Scroop, Duke of Bridge- water ; Robert, Earl of Sunderland ; and Francis, Earl of Godolphin, to Jacob De Bouverie, Esq., and Sir Edward De Bouverie, Bart., ancestors of the present proprietor, the Earl of Radnor. On the 3rd of March, 1740, Sir Jacob De Bouverie, Bart., granted a lease to Edward Bootle, for a term of 230 years, of those premises. After that the present building was erected by Edward Bootle, who left them by will to Robert Bootle ; who left them by will to trustees ; and by divers assignments they became vested in Edward Smith Bigg, Esq., who granted them on lease to the Trustees of the London Mechanics’ Institute, for the whole of his term of 146 years, from Sept. 1st, 1824, at a rent of 2297 per annum, with liberty to purchase down to 297 per annum, at any time, for the sum of 3501.* [ See Mechanics’ Institute.] Southampton Square. [See Bloomsbury Square.] Southampton Street, Strand, was so called in compliment to Lady Rachel Russell, daughter of Thomas Wriothesley, Earl of Southampton, and wife of William, Lord Russell, the patriot. Eminent Inhabitants. — Mrs. Oldfield, the actress ; Arthur Mayn- waring, in his will, (dated 1712), describes her as residing “ in New Soutliampton-street, in the parish of St. Paul’s, Covent Garden.” David Garrick in No. 36, before he removed to the Adelphi ; the house has been new-fronted, but remains, I am told, much the same inside as when Garrick left it. Southampton Street, Bloomsbury, runs from Holborn into Bloomsbury-square. {( I was born in London on the 6th of November, 1671, in Southampton Street, facing Southampton House.” — Colley Cibber's Apology. Southwark. One of the 26 wards of London, otherwise Bridge Ward Without , but commonly called “ The Borough.” * Mechanics’ Register, vol. ii., pp. 179, 180. SOUTHWARK BRIDGE. 763 It is in shape not unlike the map of Italy, Kent-street forming a kind of Southern Italy : it lies entirely on the south side of the Thames, and in the county of Surrey; joining Lambeth on the west, and consists of the parishes of St. Saviour’s, St. Olave’s , Si. Johns, Horselydown, St. George’s, and St. Thomas’s . “ It was called by tbe Saxons Suthverke, or the South Work, in respect to some fort or fortification bearing that aspect from London. It was also called the Borough or Burg, probably for the same reason.” — Pennant. Boundaries. — North, the Thames : South, Bedlam and St. George’s Fields : East, St. Saviour’s Bock, Rotherhithe, and Bermondsey : West, Paris Garden Stairs and Gravel-lane. Southwark returns two members to Parliament. Observe . — The number of curious old inns in the High-street, between London Bridge and St. Georges Church. [See Tabard.] The Duke of Hamilton, of the time of Charles I., while knocking for admittance at an inn gate in Southwark, about four in the morning, was arrested by a party of soldiers searching for Sir Lewis Dyves. “ He told them a very formal story of himself and his business, which at first satisfied them ; but they observed that as he took a pipe of tobacco by them, he burned several great papers to fire it ; whereupon they searched him, and found such papers about him as discovered him. 5 ’ — Burnet’s Memoirs of the Dukes of Hamilton , p. 384. Southwark was celebrated for its stews or licensed brothels ; and in the old poem of Cock Lorell’s Bote, printed by Wynkyn de Worde, in the reign of Henry VIII., is called “ the Stewes Banke.” [See Bridge Ward Without ; St. Saviour’s, South- wark ; St. George’s, Southwark ; the Tabard ; Winchester House ; Bear Garden ; Globe Theatre ; Mint ; Guy’s Hospital ; Barclay’s Brewhouse.] Southwark Bridge. A bridge over the Thames of three cast- iron arches, resting on stone piers, designed by John Bennie, and erected by a public company, at an expense of about 800,000£. The first stone was laid, April 23rd, 1815 ; and publicly opened, April, 1819. The span of the centre arch is 240 feet, and the entire weight of iron employed in upholding the bridge, is about 5780 tons. Southwark Fair. A celebrated fair commemorated by Hogarth, and suppressed, in 1762, by an order of the Court of Common Council of the City of London. It was one of the three great fairs of special importance, described in a Proclamation of Charles I., “unto which there is usually extraordinary resort out of all parts of the kingdom.”* The three fairs were Rymer, xix. 185. 764 SOUTHWARK FAIR. Bartholomew fair , Stourbridge fair, near Cambridge, and Our Lady fair, in the borough of Southwark. It was held on St. Mar- garet s-hill in Southwark, on the day after Bartholomew fair in London. The allowed time of its continuance by charter was three days, but it generally continued, like other fairs, for fourteen days. It was famous for its drolls, puppet shows, rope dancing, music booths, and tippling houses. “21 Sept. 1668. To Southwark Fair, very dirty and there saw the puppet-shew of Whittington, which is pretty to see ; and how that idle thing do work upon people that see it, and even myself too ! And thence to Jacob Hall’s dancing on the ropes, where I saw such action as I never saw before, and mightily worth seeing ; and here took acquaintance with a fellow who carried me to a tavern, whither came the music of this booth, and by and by Jacob Hall himself, with whom I had a mind to speak, whether he ever had any mischief by falls in his time. He told me, ‘ Yes, many, hut never to the breaking of a limb.’ He seems a mighty strong man. So giving them a bottle or two of wine, I away.” — Pepys. “13 Sep. 1660. I saw in Southwark at St. Margaret’s Faire, monkies and asses dance and do other feates of activity on y e tight rope ; they were gallantly clad a la mode , went upright, saluted the company, bowing and pulling off their hatts ; they saluted one another with as good a grace as if instructed by a dancing-master. They turn’d heels over head with a basket having eggs in it without breaking any ; also with lighted candles in their hands and on their heads without extinguishing them, and with vessells of water without spilling a drop. I also saw an Italian wench daunce and performe all the tricks on y e tight rope to admiration; all the Court went to see her. Likewise here was a man who tooke up a piece of iron cannon of about 4001b. weight with the haire of his head onely.” — Evelyn. Southwark Place, Southwark, [See Suffolk House, Southwark.] South Eastern Railway Station is on the Surrey or Southwark side of London Bridge. The first mile and a half runs on arches side by side with the East Greenwich Railway, the next eight miles on the Croydon Railway, and the continuation to Reigate station, 20|- miles from London, on the Brighton Railway. The South Eastern works begin at Reigate station, and run to Canterbury, Ramsgate, Deal, Folkstone, and Dover. The whole line to Dover was ‘opened in February, 1844. Pleasant excursions, returning the same day, may be made by this line to Penshurst, Ilever Castle, Tunbridge Wells, Knowle, and Canterbury. South Western Railway Station is in the Waterloo Bridge Road, about a quarter of a mile in a straight direction from Waterloo Bridge. The line throughout to Southampton was opened May 11th, 1840. The branch from Bishopstoke to Gosport was opened in February, 1842, and the Guildford branch in May, 1845. The Richmond Railway (now a part of the South Western) was opened in July, 1846, and the Metro- politan extension from Vauxliall Bridge and Waterloo Bridge, SPA FIELDS. 765 July 11 tli, 1848. Pleasant excursions may be made by this line to Richmond, Hampton Court, Windsor, Winchester, &c. Spa Fields, Clerkenwell. A district covered with houses within the present century, and so called from a mineral spring of some celebrity in its day. Grimaldi, the clown, lived, in 1822, at No. 8, Exmouth- street, Spa-fields. The Spa-fields burying- ground became notorious in the year 1845, in consequence of the proprietors of the ground burning the bones and bodies of the dead, to make room for fresh interments. About 1350 bodies, it appeared, were annually interred there. Eight bodies, not unfrequently, were buried in one grave only 8 feet deep. ’Sparagus Garden. A place of amusement in Lambeth Marsh, adjoining Cuper’s Gardens, numbered 13 in Strype’s map of Lambeth and Christ Church,* and now only known, even by name, to local antiquaries and the readers of our Charles I. literature. Richard Brome wrote a play, called The ’Sparagus Garden, acted in 1635 at Salisbury-court, and printed in 4to, 1640. “22nd April, 1668. To the fishmonger’s and bought a couple of lobsters, and over to the ’Sparagus Garden, thinking to have met Mr. Pierce and his wife, and Knipp.” — Pepys. Spencer House, St. James’s Place, or, Spencer House in the Green Park, was built by Vardy, (a scholar of Kent, and the architect of Uxbridge House and the Horse Guards), for John Spencer, first Lord Spencer of Althorp, (d. 1783). Spitalfields. A district without Bishopsgate, and adjoining Bethnal Green , densely inhabited by weavers of silk and other poor people. It was the place of sepulture of Roman London, and received its name from the fields having once belonged to the priory and hospital of St. Mary Spital, founded in 1197 by Walter Brune and Rosia his wife, and dedicated to the honour of Jesus Christ and the Virgin Mary by the name of Domus Dei et Beatae Marise, extra Bishopsgate, in the parish of St. Botolph. Hence the present parish of Christ Church, Spitalfields. The old name was Loles worth. f The silk manufacture was planted here by French emigrants, expelled from their own country upon the revocation of the edict of Nantes. In the churchyard of the priory, (now Spital-square, and chiefly inhabited by silk manu- facturers), was a pulpit cross, “ somewhat like,” says Stow, “to that in St. Paul’s Churchyard,” where the celebrated Spital sermons were originally preached. The cross was rebuilt in 1594, and destroyed during the troubles of Charles I. The sermons, however, have been continued to the present time, and * Strype, B. vi., p. 83. + Stow, p. 64. 766 SPITALFIELDS. are still preached every Easter Monday and Easter Tuesday, before the Lord Mayor and Aldermen, at Christ Church, New- gate-street. The Christ’s Hospital or Blue Coat Boys were regular attendants, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth,* at the Spital sermons at the old cross in Spital-square. “ A hospital or spital signified a charitable institution for the advantage of poor, infirm, and aged persons — an almshouse, in short ; while spittles were mere lazar-houses, receptacles for wretches in the leprosy and other loathsome diseases the consequence of debauchery and vice.” — Gifford , ( Note in Massinger's Works). “ On the east side of this church yard lieth a large field, of old time called Lolesworth, now Spittlefield, which about the year 1576 was broken up for clay to make brick ; in the digging whereof many earthen pots, called urnse, were found full of ashes, and burnt bones of men, to wit, of the Romans that inhabited here ; for it was the custom of the Romans to burn their dead, to put their ashes in an urn, and then bury the same, with certain ceremonies, in some field appointed for that purpose near unto their city. Every of these pots had in them with the ashes of the dead one piece of copper money, with the inscription of the emperor then reigning ; some of them were of Claudius, some of Vespasian, some of Nero, of Antoninus Pius, of Trajanus, and others. Besides those urns, many other pots were there found, made of a white earth, with long necks and handles, like to our stone jugs ; these were empty, but seemed to be buried full of some liquid matter, long since consumed and soaked through ; for there were found divers phials and other fashioned glasses, some most cunningly wrought, such as I have not seen the like, and some of crystal ; all which had water in them, nothing differing in clearness, taste, or savour, from common spring water, whatsoever it was at the first : some of these had oil in them very thick, and earthy in savour : some were supposed to have balm in them, but had lost the virtue ; many of those pots and glasses were broken in cutting of the clay, so that few were taken up whole. There were also found divers dishes and cups of a fine red-coloured earth, which showed outwardly such a shining smoothness as if they had been of coral ; those had in the bottoms Roman letters printed ; there were also lamps of white earth and red, artificially wrought with divers antiques about them, some three or four images made of white earth, about a span long each of them : one, I remember, was of Pallas, the rest I have forgotten. I myself have reserved among divers of those antiquities there, one urn, with the ashes and bones, and one pot of white earth very small, not exceeding the quantity of a quarter of a wine pint, made in shape of a hare squatted upon her legs, and between her ears is the mouth of the pot. There hath also been found in the same field divers coffins of stone, containing the bones of men.” — Stow, p. 64. “ On Easter Sunday the ancient custom is that all the children of the Hospital go before my Lord Mayor to the Spittle, that the world may witness the works of God and man, in maintenance of so many poor people, the better to stir up living men’s minds to the same good.” — A Nest of Ninnies , by Robert Armin, 4to, 1608. “ But the sermon of the greatest length was that concerning charity before the Lord Mayor and Aldermen at the Spittle : in speaking which he [Dr Barrow] spent three hours and a half. Being asked after he came down from the pulpit whether he was not tired : ‘Yes, indeed/ said he, ‘ I began to be * Stow, p. 119. SPRING GARDENS. 767 weary with standing so long.’ ” — Pope's Life of Seth Ward , p. 148, 12mo, 1697. “ Where Spitalfields with real India vies.” — The Rejected Addresses. [See Christ Church, Spitalfields ; Pelham Street.] Spring Gardens, between St. James’s Park and Charing Cross and Whitehall, a garden of the age of Charles I. and II., with butts, a bathing-pond, pheasant-yard,* and bowling-green attached to the King’s Palace at Whitehall, and so called from a jet or spring of water, which sprung with the pressure of the foot, and wetted whoever was foolish or ignorant enough to tread upon it. “ In a garden joining to this Palace [Whitehall] there is a jet d’eau, with a sun-dial, at which, while strangers are looking, a quantity of water forced by a wheel, which the gardener turns at a distance through a number of little pipes, plentifully sprinkles those that are standing round.” — Hentzner’s Travels, anno 1598. Water-springs of this description were not uncommon in gardens of the time of Queen Elizabeth, and even later. One of this character existed at Chatsworth, until within a few years ; and Nares, in his Glossary, says that the spring-garden described by Plot was to be seen at Enstone, in Oxfordshire, in 1822. “ But look thee, Martius ; not a vein runs here, From head to foot, but Sophocles would unseam, And like a Spring Garden, shoot his scornful blood Into their eyes, durst come to tread on him.” Beaumont and Fletcher , ed. Dyce , ii. 484. “ The Bowling-green in the Spring Gardens was put down one day by the King’s command, but by the intercession of the Queen it was reprieved for the year [1684] ; but hereafter it shall be no common bowling-place. There was kept in it an ordinary of six shillings a meal (when the King’s pro- clamation allows but two elsewhere), continual bibbing and drinking wine all day under the trees ; two or three quarrels every week. It was grown scandalous and insufferable ; besides my Lord Digby being reprehended for striking in the King’s garden, he said, he took it for a common bowling- place, where all paid money for their coming in.” — Garrard to Lord Straf- ford, ( Strafford Papers, i. 262). * Among the Egerton MSS., No. 806, in the British Museum, is an account of “ Charges don in doeinge of sundry needful reparacons about the Pke and Springe Garden, beginninge primo Julij, 1614, and ending ultimo Septem. next.” The water was supplied by pipes of lead from St. James’s Fields. Among other charges at the end I observe, “ For two clucking -henns to sett upon the pheasant eggs, iiij s *” On the 29th of November, 1601, a payment was made to George Johnson, keeper of the Spring Garden, for a scaffold which he had erected against the Park wall in the Tilt Yard, for “the Countie Egmond” to see the tilters. — Chalmers’s Apology, vol. i., p. 340. And in 1630 Simon Osbaldeston was appointed keeper of the King’s Garden called the Spring Garden and of the Bowling-green there. It appears by the patent (Pat. 7 Car., pt. 8, No. 4) that the garden was made a Bowling-green by command of Charles I. — Lysons's Environs , i. 324. 768 SPRING GARDENS. 44 Since the Spring Garden was put down, we have, by a servant of the Lord Chamberlain’s, a new Spring Garden erected in the fields behind the Mews [ see Piccadilly], where is built a fair house, and two bowling greens, made to entertain gamesters and howlers at an excessive rate ; for I believe it has cost him 4000?. — a dear undertaking for a gentleman barber. My Lord Chamberlain much frequents this place, where they bowl great matches.” — Garrard to Lord Strafford , {Strafford Papers , i. 435). 44 On the eventful day of Dr. Lamhe’s being torn to pieces by the mob, [June 13th, 1628], a circumstance occurred to Buckingham somewhat re- markable to show the spirit of the times. The King and the Duke were in the Spring Gardens looking on the bowlers; the Duke put on his hat ; one Wilson, a Scotchman, first kissing the Duke’s hand, snatched it off, saying, 4 Off with your hat before the King !’ Buckingham, not apt to restrain his quick feelings, kicked the Scotchman ; hut the King interfering, said, 4 Let him alone, George ; he is either mad or a fool/ 4 No, sir,’ replied the Scots- man, 4 1 am a sober man ; and if your Majesty would give me leave, I will tell you that of this man which many know, and none dare speak.’” — P' Israeli's Cur. of Lit., p. 305. 44 As for the pastimes of my sisters, when they w T ere in the country, it was to read, work, walk, and discourse with each other. Commonly they lived half the year in London. Their customs were in winter time to go some- times to plays or to ride in their coaches about the streets, to see the concourse and recourse of people, and in the spring time to visit the Spring Garden, Hyde Park, and the like places ; and sometimes they would have music and sup in barges upon the water.” — Margaret Lucas , Puchess of Newcastle. 44 Shall we make a fling to London, and see how the spring appears there in the Spring Garden ; and in Hyde Park, to see the races, horse, and foot ? ” — R. Brome, A Joviall Crew, 4to, 1652. 44 10 May, 1654. Mr Lady Gerrard treated us at Mulberry Garden, now y e onely place of refreshment about the toune for persons of the best quality to he exceedingly cheated at ; Cromwell and his partizans having shut up and seized on Spring Garden, w ch till now had been y e usual rendezvous for the ladys and gallants at this season.” — Evelyn. 44 20 May, 1658. I went to see a coach race in Hyde Park, and colla- tioned in Spring Garden.” — Evelyn. 44 The manner is as the company returns [from Hyde Park] to alight at the Spring Garden so called, in order to the Parke, as on Thuilleries is to the course ; the inclosure not disagreeable, for the solemnness of the grove, the warbling of the birds, and as it opens into the spacious walks at St. James’s ; hut the company walk in it at such a rate, you would think that all the ladies were so many Atalantas contending with their wooers ; but as fast as they ran they stay there so long as if they wanted not time to finish the race ; for it is usual here to find some of the young company till midnight ; and the thickets of the garden seem to be contrived to all advantages of gallantry, after they have refreshed with the collation, which is here seldom omitted, at a certain cabaret, in the middle of this paradise, where the forbidden fruits are certain trifling tarts, neats’ tongues, salacious meats, and bad Rhenish ; for which'the gallants pay sauce, as indeed they do at all such houses throughout England.” — A Character of England, dfec., {attributed to Evelyn), p. 56, 12mo, 1659. After tlie Restoration, Spring -gar dens, at Charing Cross, was called the Old Spring-gardens, the ground built upon, and the SPUR ALLEY. 769 entertainments removed to the New Spring-garden at Lambeth, since called Vauxhall .* The ground built upon was called Inner Spring-garden and Outer Spring-garden.f Eminent Inhabitants. — Sir Philip Warwick, in 1661, &c., author of the Memoirs which bear his name ; he lived in the Outer Spring-garden. War wick-street, adjoining, was, I believe, named after him. — Sir William Morris, in 1662, &c., in Outer Spring-garden. — Philip, Earl of Chesterfield, 1667 — 1670, in Outer Spring-garden. — Prince Rupert, from 1674 to his death, in 1682. — The Lord Crofts, “mad Lord Crofts,” 1674, &c. In the books of the Lord Steward’s office, he is described as living, in 1677, “ in the place commonly called the Old Spring-garden.” — Sir Edward Hungerford, in 1681, after Hungerford-market was made. — Colley Cibber, from 1711 to 1714. “ In or near the old Play-house in Drury Lane, on Monday last, the 19th of January, a watch was dropp’d, having a Tortoise-shell Case inlaid with silver, a silver chain, and a gold seal ring, the arms across wavy and chequer. Who- ever brings it to Mr. Cibber, at his House near the Bull Head Tavern in Old Spring Garden at Charing Cross, shall have three guineas reward.” — The Daily Courant, Jan. 20th, 1703. George Canning, in 1800, at No. 13, (right-hand corner of Cockspur-street.)J The chapel was built by an ancestor of Lord Clifford, and occasioned a dispute in 1792 on the right of presentation. Lord Clifford claimed it, and the vicar of St Martin s-in-the-Fields claimed it. I know not how it was adju dicated. [See Bull Head Tavern.] Spur Alley, in the Strand. An opening under the Salutation Tavern, § now Craven-street, in the Strand, and so called since 1742.11 “ Vertue had received two different accounts of his [Grinling Gibbons’s] birth ; from Murray the painter, that he was horn in Holland of English parents, and came over at the age of nineteen ; from Stoakes (relation of the Stones), that his father was a Dutchman, but that Gibbons himself was born in Spur Alley in the Strand.” — Horace Walpole. The truth is, Gibbons was horn at Rotterdam on the 4th of April, 1648.11 Spur Inn, No. 97, Borough High Street, Southwark. “ From thence towards London Bridge, he many fair inns for receipt of travellers by these signs, the Spur, Christopher, Bull, Queen’s Head, Tabard, * London Gazette of 1675, No. 981. L Rate-hooks of St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields. % Court Guide of 1800. § Harleian MS., 6850, temp. James I. || Rate-books of St. Martin’s-in-the-Fields. Black’s Catalogue of the Ashmolean MSS., col. 209, 770 STAFFORD HOUSE. George, Hart, King’s Head, &c. Amongst the which the most ancient is the Tabard.” — Stow, p. 154. Squire’s Coffee House, Fulwood’s Rents, Holborn, was so called from a Mr. Squire, “ a noted coffee man in Fuller’s Rents,” who died Sept. 18th, 1717. It was patronised by the benchers and students of Gray’s Inn, (i I do not know that I meet, in any of my walks, objects which move both my spleen and laughter so effectually, as those young fellows at the Grecian, Squire’s, Searle’s, and all other coffee houses adjacent to the Law.” — The Spectator , No. 49. “ Having passed away the greatest part of the morning in hearing the Knight’s [Sir Roger de Coverley’s] reflections, he asked me if I would smoke a pipe with him over a dish of coffee at Squire’s.” — The Spectator , No. 269. Stafford House, in St. James’s Park, between St. James’s Palace and the Green Park, was built, all hut the upper story, for the Duke of York, (the second son of George III.), with money advanced for that purpose by the Marquis of Stafford, afterwards first Duke of Sutherland, (d. 1833). The Duke of York did not live to inhabit it. The upper story was added by the present duke. This is said to he the finest private mansion in the metro- polis. The internal arrangements were planned by Charles Barry, R.A. Nothing can compete with it in size, taste, or decoration, unless perhaps Devonshire House . The pictures, too, are very fine ; hut the collection is private, to which admis- sion is obtained only by the express invitation or permission of the duke. The collection is distributed throughout the house. The Sutherland Gallery, as it is called, is a noble room, 126 feet long by 32 feet wide. Principal Pictures. Raphael. Christ bearing his Cross — a small full-length figure, seen against a sky background between two pilasters adorned with ara- besques. Said to have been brought from a private chapel of the Pope in the Ricciardi Palace at Florence. Guido. Head of the Magdalen ; Study for the large picture of Ata- lanta in the Royal Palace at Naples ; the Circumcision. Guercino. St. Gregory ; St. Grisogono ; a Landscape. Parmegiano. Head of a Young Man, (very fine). Tintoretto. A Lady at her Toilet. Titian. Mercury teaching Cupid to read in the presence of Venus, (an Orleans picture, figures life size) ; St. Jerome in the De- sert ; three Portraits. Murillo, (5). Two from Marshal Soult’s Col- lection — the Return of the Prodigal Son, (a composition of nine figures) ; Abraham and the Angels — cost 3000?. STAFFORD ROW. 771 F. ZURBARAN, (4). Three from Soult’s Collection ; very fine. Velasquez, (2). Duke of Gandia at the Door of a Convent — eight figures, life size, from the Soult Collection ; Landscape. Albert Durer. The Death of the Virgin. Honthorst. Christ before Pilate, (Honthorst’s chef d'ceuvre), from the Lucca Collection. N. Poussin, (3). G. Poussin, (1). Rubens, (4). Holy Family ; Marriage of St. Catherine; Sketch, en grisaille, for the great picture in the Louvre, of the Marriage of Henry IV. and Marie de Medicis. Van Dyck, (4). Three-quarter portrait of Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel, seated in an arm-chair, (very fine) ; two portraits ; St. Mar- tin dividing his Cloak, (in a circle). Watteau, (5). All fine. D. Teniers, (2). A Witch performing her Canta- tions ; Ducks in a Reedy Pool. Terburg. Gentleman bowing to a Lady, (very fine). Sir Joshua Reynolds. Dr. Johnson without his Wig, and with his hands up. Sir D. Wilkie. The Breakfast Table. Painted for the first Duke of Sutherland. Sir T. Lawrence. Lady Gower and Child, (the pre- sent Duchess of Sutherland, and her daughter the present Duchess of Argyll). E. Bird, R.A. Day after the Battle of Chevy Chase. E. Landseer, R.A. Lord Stafford and Lady Evelyn Gower, (now Lady Blantyre). W. Etty, R.A. Festival before the Flood. John Martin. The Assuaging of the Waters. Paul Delaroche. Lord Strafford on his way to the Scaffold receives the blessing of Archbishop Laud. Winterhalter. Scene from the Decameron. A collection of 150 portraits, illus- trative of French history and French memoirs. Stafford Row, Pimlico, was so called after Sir William Howard, Lord Viscount Stafford, beheaded Dec. 29th, 1680, on the perjured evidence of Titus Oates and others. [See Tart Hall.] Lord Stafford married Mary, sister and heir of Henry Stafford, Viscount Stafford, the last heir male of the illustrious family of the Staffords, Dukes of Buckingham. Staining Lane, Wood Street, Citeapside. “Staining Lane of old time so called, as may be supposed, of painter Stainers dwelling there.” — Stow, p. 1 14. [See St. Mary Staining.] Stamford Street runs from the Westminster Bridge Road to the Blackfriars Bridge Road, and was built in the present century, on part of Lambeth Marsh and Pedlars’ Acre. In Duke-street, Stamford-street, is Messrs. Clowes’s vast printing office. L L 2 772 STANDARD IN CORNHILL. Stamps, Taxes, and Excise Office, (now the Inland Revenue Office), is in Somerset House. Here are received the several sums collected by Government on account of the assessed taxes on windows, carriages, riding horses, servants, dogs ; and the stamps affixed to deeds and other instruments, bills of exchange, legacies, fire insurances, probates of wills, newspapers, playing cards, Ac. Standard in Cornhill. A water- standard, with four spouts, made by Peter Morris, a German, in the year 1582, and sup- plied with water from the Thames, conveyed by pipes of lead over the steeple of St. Magnus’s Church. The Standard stood at the east end of Cornhill, at its junction with Gracechurch- street, Bishopsgate-street, and Leadenhall-street, and with the waste water from its four spouts cleansed the channels of the four streets. The water ceased to run between the years 1598 and 1603 ; hut the Standard itself remained for a long time after. It was long in use as a point of measurement for distances from the City, and several of our suburban milestones are still inscribed with so many miles “ from the Standard in Cornhill.” There was a Standard in Cornhill as early as the 2nd of Henry V.* [See Cornhill.] Standard in Cheap, or, Standard in Cheapside. “Also the same yere [17 Hen. VI.] in hervest tyme were brent at the Standard in Chepe diverse nettes, cappes, sadelys and other chaffare, for they were falsely mad and deseyvehly to the peple.” — London Chronicle , edited by Sir N. H. Nicolas. [See Cheapside.] Stangate, Lambeth. At the foot of Westminster Bridge, a little above the bridge, and facing the Houses of Parliament. Stukeley, who calls it Stanegate Ferry, traces the old Roman road from Chester to Dover through St. James’s Park and Old Palace Yard to Stane-gate and Canterbury, and so to the three famous sea-ports, Rutupise, Dubris, and Lemanis.f Stanhope Street, May Fair. Colonel Barre, the author (as some suppose) of the Letters of Junius, lived and died (1802) at No. 12 in this street. Stanhope House, Whitehall. “ There was a Trunk ou Saturday last, being the 18th inst. [July 1672-3] cut off from behind the Duke of Albemarle’s Coach, wherein there was a Gold George, 18 Shirts, a Tenuis Sute laced, with several fronts and laced Cravats * London Chronicle, edited by Sir N. H. Nicolas, p. 99 . f Itinerarium Curiosum, p.l 1 3. STAR CHAMBER. 773 and other Linen ; if any can give tidings of them to Mr. Lymbyery the Duke’s Steward at Stanhope House near Whitehall, they shall have five pounds for their pains and all charges otherwise defrayed.” — London Gazette^ No. 748. Staple’s Inn, Holborn. An Inn of Chancery, appertaining to Gray 8 Inn. “ Staple Inn was the Inne or Hostell of the Merchants of the Staple (as the tradition is), wherewith until I can learne better matter, concerning the antiquity and foundation thereof, I must rest satisfied. But for latter matters I cannot chuse hut make report, and much to the prayse and com- mendation of the Gentlemen of this House, that they have bestowed great costs in new-building a fayre Hall of brick, and two parts of the outward Courtyards, besides other lodging in the garden and elsewhere, and have thereby made it the favrest Inne of Chauncery in this Universitie.” — Sir George Buc , {Howes, p. 1065, ed. 1631). “ Then is Staple Inn, but whereof so named I am ignorant.” — Stow. p. 146. Isaac Reed (d. 1807) had chambers at No. 11.* Here (in Reed’s chambers) Steevens corrected the proof sheets of his edition of Shakspeare. He used to leave his house at Hamp- stead at one in the morning, and walk to Staple’s Inn. Reed, who went to bed at the usual hour, allowed his facetious fellow- commentator a key to the chambers, so that Steevens stole quietly to his proof sheets, without, it is said, disturbing the repose of his friend. The new buildings (erected in 1843) are in good taste. Star Chamber. A judicial court in the palace of our Kings at Westminster, erected by Henry VIII., and abolished from and after the 1st of August, 1641, by stat. 17 Chas. I., c. 10. “ The Judges of the Court” were “the Privy Council,” and “the Messengers of the Court,” “the Warden of the Fleet’s Servants.” The records (but unfortunately not the decisions, which are lost) are preserved at the Chapter House, Westminster. The most famous prosecution in this Court was that of Prynne, in the reign of Charles I., by the notorious Attorney-General Noy. “ in Chamber of Stars All matters there he mars ; Clapping his rod on the board, No man dare speak a word ; J F or he hath all the saying, Without any renaying. He rolleth in his Records ; He sayeth how say ye my Lords, Is not my reason good ? Some say yes, and some Sit still as they were dumb.” Skelton , of Cardinal Wolsey. Southey’s Cowper, viii. 8. 774 STATE PAPER OFFICE. “ Then is there the Star Chamber, where in the Term time, every week once at the least, which is commonly on Fridays and Wednesdays, and on the next day after the term endeth, the Lord Chancellor, and the Lords and other of the Privy Council, and the Chief Justices of England, from nine of the clock till it be eleven do sit. This place is called the Star Chamber, because the roof thereof is decked with the likeness of stars gilt.” — Stow , p. 157. “ The Starre Chamber is a chamber at the one End of Westminster Hall. It is written the Starred Chamber. Now it hath the signe of a Starre ouer the doore as you one way enter therein.” — Minsheu, ed. 1617. “ The building itself was evidently of the Elizabethan age, and the date 1602, with the initials E. R. separated by an open rose on a star, was carved over one of the doorways. The ceiling was of oak, and had been very curiously devised in moulded compartments, ornamented with roses, pomegranates, portcullises and fleurs-des-lys : it had also been gilt and diversely coloured.” — Britton and Brayley’s Westminster Palace, p. 443.* There is an engraving of the ceiling by J. T. Smith, and an interesting view of the Chamber in Britton and Brayley’s Westminster, plate xx. In the curious Illumination + in the Lambeth Library of Earl Rivers presenting his book, and Caxton his printer, to King Edward IV., the King is represented seated in a chamber, the roof of which is powdered with stars. State Paper Office, in St. James’s Park, at the bottom of Duke Street West, where a flight of stone steps leads you into the Parade, is a repository for the reception and arrangement of the documents accumulating in the offices of the Privy Council and the Secretaries of State, at whose disposal the documents are held. The office was established in 1578, and enlarged and made into a “set form or library” in the reign of James I. The papers were originally kept in the uppermost rooms of the Gate-house at Whitehall, J and were first put in order during the Grenville administration in the reign of George III.§ The present building was erected in 1833. Access to the papers can only be obtained by a written order from the Secretary of State for the Home Department, and then only for a certain reign or period. Unrestricted access has never as yet, I believe, been granted, though it would be difficult to assign a valid reason why the papers, prior to the accession of the House of Hanover, should not be made as accessible to the * The sum of 37 1. was paid to Inigo Jones upon the Council’s Warrant of June 27th, 1619, “for making two several models, the one for the Star Chamber, the other for the Banqueting House .” — Revels at Court , Int. p. xiv. There is a good account of the Star Chamber by Mr. John Bruce in the Archseologia, vol. xxv. J Engraved as a frontispiece to the Royal and Noble Authors. J Strype, B. vi., p. 5. § Dalrymple’s Memoirs, i. 42. STATIONERS’ HALL. 775 public as the Cottonian or Harleian collections in the Museum; or the records of the kingdom in the Tower, or Rolls Chapel. A few of the state papers have been printed by her Majesty’s Government, in quarto, and may now be had for a compara- tively small cost. Stationers’ Hall, Stationers’ Hall Court, Ludgate Hill. The Hall of the “ Master and Keepers or Wardens and Com- monalty of the Mystery or Art of the Stationers of the City of London.” The Company was incorporated May 4th, 1557, (3rd & 4th Philip and Mary), and the present Hall erected on the site of Burgaveny House, belonging to Henry Nevill, sixth Lord Abergavenny, (d. 1587).* The Hall was destroyed in the Great Fire of 1666, when the Stationers of London (the greatest sufferers on that occasion) lost property, it is said by Lord Clarendon, to the amount of 200,0007 Observe . — Painted window by Eginton, given by Alderman Cadell ; portraits of Prior and Steele, (good), presented by John Nichols ; of Rich- ardson, the novelist ; of Mrs. Richardson, the novelist’s wife ; of Alderman Boydell, by Graham ; Alfred and the Pilgrim, by B. West, P.R.A.; portrait of Vincent Wing, the astrologer : he died in 1668, but his name is still continued as the compiler of the sheet almanacks of the Stationers’ Company. The Station- ers’ Company, for two important centuries in English history, had pretty well the entire monopoly of learning. Printers were obliged to serve their time to a member of the Company, and every publication, from a Bible to a ballad, was required to be “ Entered at Stationers’ Hall.” The service is now unneces- sary, but Parliament still requires, under the recent Copyright Act, that the proprietor of every published work should register his claim in the books of the Stationers’ Company, paying a fee of 5s. The number of freemen of the Company is between 1000 and 1100, and of the livery, or leading per- sons, about 450. The capital of the Company is upwards of 40,0007, divided into shares varying in value from 407 to 4007 each. The great treasure of the Stationers’ Company is its series of registers of works entered for publication. This valu- able collection of entries commences in 1557, and though fre- quently consulted and quoted, was never properly understood, till Mr. J. Payne Collier published two carefully edited volumes of extracts from its earlier pages. The only publications which the Company continues to make are almanacks, of which they had once the entire monopoly, and a Latin Gradus. Almanack day at Stationers’ Hall (every 22nd of November, at 3 o’clock) is a Strype, B. iii., p. 174. 776 STATIONERY OFFICE. sight worth seeing for the bustle of the porters anxious to get off with early supplies. The celebrated Bible of the year 1632, with the important word “not” omitted in the seventh commandment, “ Thou shalt not commit adultery,” was printed by the Stationers’ Company. The omission was made a Star Chamber matter of by Archbishop Laud, and a heavy fine laid upon the Company for their neglect. Stationery Office (Her Majesty’s), James Street, Buckingham Gate, was established in the year 1785, for the supply of stationery at wholesale prices to the several public departments of government, prior to which time the chief offices of govern- ment were supplied by private individuals, under patents from the Crown. The printing of the Excise was long executed under patent by Jacob Tonson, the eminent bookseller, and in 1757 a patent was granted to George Walpole, Earl of Orford, for the supply of stationery to the Treasury, for the period of forty years. The duties of the Stationery Office are performed by a comptroller, a storekeeper, certain clerks, warehousemen, and paper-cutters. The present comptroller (who has done so much for the efficiency of the office) is J. B. M‘Culloch, Esq., author of the Commercial Dictionary, and other standard works in literature and political arithmetic. The present office was long the residence of Lord Melford, and was first fitted up as a Stationery Office in 1820. Statistical Society, No. 12, St. James’s Square. Founded 1824. The members, about 450 in number, are styled “ Fellows,” and pay 2 guineas annually. The anniversary meeting is held on the 15th of March at 3 p.m. The Society has issued several volumes of its Journal of Proceedings. Steaks (The). [See Beef Steak Club.] Steelyard, Steleyard, or, Stilliard, in Upper Thames Street, in the ward of Dowgate, (facing the river), where a brick build- ing called the Steelyard still denotes its site. “ Their hall,” says Stow, “ is large, built of stone, with three arched gates towards the street, the middlemost whereof is far bigger than the others, and is seldom opened ; the other two he secured up ; the same is now called the old hall.”* “ The Steelyard, a place for merchants of Almaine, that used to bring hither as well wheat, rye, and other grain, as cables, ropes, masts, pitch, tar, flax, hemp, linen cloth, wainscots, wax, steel, and other profitable merchandises.” — Stow , p. 87. * Stow, p. 88. STEELYARD. 777 “ Steelyard, a place in London where the fraternity of the Easterling Merchants, otherwise the Merchants of the Hannse and Almaine are wont to have their abode. It is so called Stilliard of a broad place or court, wherein steele was much sold.” — Minsheu, ed. 1617, and H. Blount both in his Law Dictionary and his Glossographia. “ The Steelyard was lately famous for Rhenish Wines, Neats’ Tongues, &c.” — Blount's Glossoyraphia, ed. 1670.* Minsheu, I am afraid, has founded his derivation on no better authority than the passage already quoted from Stow, which certainly gives no great countenance to his statement. I am assured by my friend, Mr. T. Hudson Turner, (than whom no person alive is better versed in the history of mediaeval London), that the Steelyard derives its name from its being the place where the King’s steelyard, or beam, was erected for weighing tlie tonnage of goods imported into London. When the tonnage was transferred to the Mayor and Corporation, the King’s beam was moved first to Cornhill and afterwards to Weiglihouse-yard, in Little Eastcheap. “ Of Holbein’s Works in England I find an account of only four. The first is that capital picture in [Barber] Surgeons’ Hall of Henry VIII. giving the charter to the Company of Surgeons. The second is the large piece in the Hall of Bridewell, and the third and fourth were two large pictures painted in distemper, in the Hall of the Easterlings merchants in the Steelyard. These pictures exhibited the triumphs of Riches and Poverty. The former was represented by Plutus riding in a golden car ; before him sat Fortune scattering money, the chariot being loaded with coin, and drawn by four white horses, but blind and led by women, whose names were written beneath ; round the car were crowds with extended hands catching at the favours of the god. Fame and Fortune attended him, and the procession was closed by Croesus and Midas, and other avaricious persons of note. Poverty was an old woman, sitting in a vehicle as shattered as the other was superb ; her garments squalid, and every emblem of wretchedness around her. She was drawn by asses and oxen, which were guided by Hope and Diligence, and other emblematic figures, and attended by mechanics and labourers. It was on the sight of these pictures that Zucchero expressed such esteem of this master The large pictures themselves Felibien and Depiles say were carried into France from Flanders, whither they were transported I suppose after the destruction of the Company. The Triumph of Poverty was engraved by Vosterman, and copies of both are now at Strawberry Hill.” — Walpole's Anecdotes , ed. Dallaway, i. 152. The Hanse Merchants are said to have obtained a settlement in London as early as 1250. Henry III., in 1259, at the request of his brother Richard, Earl of Cornwall and King of the Romans, granted them very valuable privileges, renewed and confirmed by his son, Edward I. Other privileges were granted to them by the citizens of London, on condition of their maintaining * See an interesting note on the Rhenish Wine House in the Steelyard in Dyce’s Webster, iii. 34. L L 3 778 STEELYARD. one of the gates of the City, called Bishopsgate , in repair, and their sustaining a third of the charges, in money and men, to defend it, “ when need were.’’ These privileges remained unim- paired till the reign of Edward VI., when, on the complaint of a society of English merchants called “ The Merchant Adven- turers,” “ sentence was given that they had forfeited their liberties and were in like case with other strangers.”* Great interest was made to rescind this sentence, and ambassadors from Hamburgh and Luheck came to the King, “to speak on the behalf of the Stiliard Merchants.”! Their intercession was ineffectual; “the Stiliard men,” says the King, “received their answer, which was to confirm the former judgment of my council.”! This sentence, though it broke up their monopoly, did not injure their Low Country trade in any great degree, and the merchants of the Steelyard still continued to export English woollen clothes, and to find as ample a market for their goods as either the Merchant Adventurers, or the English merchants not Merchant Adventurers. The trade, however, was effectually broken by a proclamation of Queen Elizabeth, by which the merchants of the Steelyard were expelled the kingdom, and commanded to depart by the 28th of February, 1597-8. § The after-history of the building I find recorded in the Privy Council Register of the year 1598-9, wherein, under the 30th of January in that year, the register records that a letter was sent to the Lord Mayor, requiring him to deliver up the house of the Steelyard to the officers of her majesty’s navy, “ after the avoydinge and departinge of the strangers that did possess the house. That the said house of the Stiliards should be used and employed for the better bestowing and safe custodie of divers provisions of the navy. The rent to be paid by the officers of the navy.” || In the church of Allhallows the Great , adjoining, is a handsome screen of oak, manufactured at Ham- burgh, and presented to the parish by the Hanse Merchants, in memory of the former connection which existed between them and this country. The date of the gift is unknown. H Sir Thomas More held the office of agent for the associated mer- chants. Stephen’s (St.) Chapel. [See Westminster Palace.] * King Edward’s Diary, in Burnet, Feb. 23rd, 1551. Ibid., Feb. 28th. J Ibid., May 2nd. § Egerton Papers, p. 273. || Harl. MS. 4182, fol. 185, b. t For further information on the locality of the Steelyard, see Fire of London Papers among the additional MSS. in the British Museum, vol. xix., art. 7. STEPHEN’S (ST.), WALBROOK. 779 Stephen’s (St.), Coleman Street. A church in Coleman- street Ward (on the left-hand side of Coleman-street, going up to London Wall), destroyed in the Great Fire, and rebuilt by Wren, as we now see it, in 1676. “ John Hayward, at that time under-sexton of the parish of St. Stephen Coleman Street, carried or assisted to carry all the dead to their graves, which were buried in that large parish and who were carried in form ; and. after that form of burying was stopped, he went with the Dead-Cart and the Bell to fetch the dead-bodies from the houses where they lay, and fetched many of them out of the chambers and houses. For the parish was and is still remarkable, particularly above all the parishes in London, for a great number of alleys and thoroughfares, very long, into which no carts could come, and where they were obliged to go and fetch the bodies a very long way ; which, alleys now remain to witness it ; such as White’s Alley, Cross Key Court, Swan Alley, Bell Alley, White Horse Alley, and many more. Here he went with a kind of hand-barrow, and laid the dead bodies on it, and carried them out to the carts ; which work he performed and never had the distemper at all, hut lived about twenty years after it, and was sexton of the parish to the time of his death .” — Memoirs of the Plague by Be Foe , ed. Brayley , p. 128. The old church contained a monument “To the Memory of that antient servant to the City with his Pen, in divers employments, especially the Survey of London, Master Anthony Munday, Citizen and Draper of London,” (d. 1633). Stephen’s (St.), Walbrook, in the ward of Walbrook, imme- diately behind the Mansion House, one of Wren’s most cele- brated churches, of which the first stone was laid Oct. 16th, 1672. The exterior is unpromising, but the interior is all elegance and even grandeur. Never was so sweet a kernel in so rough a shell — so rich a jewel in so poor a setting. The cupola is a little St. Paul’s, and the lights are admirably dis- posed throughout. Architects find faults — the public, few or none — though the oval openings are, I fear, somewhat ungrace- ful. The walls and columns are of stone, but the dome is formed of timber and lead. The altar-piece, (The Stoning of Stephen), by Benjamin West, P.R.A., is seen to little advan- tage, though it blocks up a window. Sir John Vanbrugh, the architect and wit, lies buried in the family vault of the Vanbrughs, in this church. The present rector is the Rev. Dr. Croly, author of Salathiel, and other works of fancy and imagination. Stephen Street, Tottenham Court Road. George Morland, the painter, was living at No. 14 in this street in the years 1780, 1781, 1785, and 1786.* Stepney. A parish to the east of London, in the hundred of * Royal Academy Catalogues of those years. 780 STOCK EXCHANGE. Ossulston and county of Middlesex. It was anciently written Stibenhede, and Stebenliythe or Stebunhetlie, and comprised tbe several hamlets (now parishes) of Spitalfields, Bethnal Green, Whitechapel, Shadwell, Poplar, and Limehouse. This once extensive and well-inhabited parish is best known by a very prevailing error among English sailors, that those who are born at sea belong to Stepney parish. The church is dedicated to St. Dunstan. [See St. Dunstan’s, Stepney.] Stews in Southwark, or, Stewes Bank. [See Winchester House, Southwark; Cardinal’s Cap Alley.] Stinking Lane, Newgate Street, now King Edward Street. “ Then is Stinking Lane so called, or Chick Lane, at the East End of the Grey Friars Church, and there is the Butchers’ Hall.’’ — Stow, p. 118. It was afterwards called Blowbladder -street, next Butcher -Halt- lane, and last of all, about six years ago, King-Edward-street. Stock Exchange, Capel Court. The ready-money market of the world. It stands immediately in front of the Bank of England ; had its origin in the National Debt, and its first Hall in Jonathan’s Coffee-house, in Change-alle} 7 . The first stone of the present Hall was laid May 18th, 1801, and the building opened in March, 1802. Capel-court, in which it stands, was so called from the London residence and place of business of Sir William Capel, ancestor of the Capels, Earls of Essex, and Lord Mayor of London in 1504. The members of the Stock Exchange, about 800 in number, consist of stockbrokers, and bullion, bill, and discount brokers, paying 10^. a year each and a subscription to the house. No one is allowed to transact business on the Stock Exchange unless he is a member. A stranger is soon detected, and, by the custom of the place, hustled and turned out. The admission of a member takes place by ballot, and the committee of the Stock Exchange, which consists of twenty-four members, is elected every Lady Day in the same manner. Every new member of the “house,” as it is called, must be introduced by three members, each of whom enters into security in 300£. for two years. A bankrupt member is removed from the house, and cannot be readmitted unless he pays 6s. 8d. in the pound from resources of his own, over and above what has been collected from his debtors. The usual commission charged by a broker is |th (2s. 6d.) per cent, upon the stock sold or purchased; although of late years the charge has been often reduced 50 per cent., especially in speculator’s transactions — a reduction ascribed to the influx into the market of a body of brokers who will “do STOCKS MARKET. 781 business” almost for nothing, provided they can only secure customers. The broker deals with the “jobbers,” as they are called, — a class of members, or “middle-men,” who remain stationary inside the Stock Market in readiness to act upon the orders received from brokers. No Stock Exchange in Europe affords such facilities for speculation as the London Stock Exchange, for the dealings are not confined to English Govern- ment Securities, but embrace every description of transferable security, foreign funds, shares in railways, mines, canals, insurance companies, joint-stock banks, &c. The fluctuations of the markets, it is perhaps needless to add, are raised or depressed by the continental news of the day, by a new express, and sometimes by a fraud or trick like that ascribed to Lord Cochrane and others in 1814. Stocking Weavers’ Hall. [See Weavers’ Hall.] Stocks Market. A market for fish and flesh in Walbrook Ward, on the site of the present Mansion House. It was esta- blished, in 1282, by Henry Walis, Lord Mayor, where some time had stood (the way being very large and broad) a pair of stocks for punishment of offenders. “ This building,” says Stow, “ took name of these stocks.”* “ Up farther north is the Stocks Market. As to the present state of which it is converted to a quite contrary use : for instead of Flesh and Fish sold there before the Fire, are now sold Fruits, Roots and Herbs ’ f for which it is very considerable and much resorted unto, being of note for having the choicest in their kind of all sorts, surpassing all other markets in London.” — Strype , B. ii., p. 199. “ At the north end of this Market Place by a Water Conduit Pipe, is erected a nobly great Statue of King Charles the Second on Horseback trampling on Slaves, standing on a Pedestal with Dolphins cut in niches, all of freestone and encompassed with handsome iron grates. This statue was made and erected at the sole charge of Sir Robert Viner, Alderman, Knight and Baronet, an honourable, worthy and generous magistrate of this city.” — Strype, B. ii., p. 199. “ The figure of J ohn Sobieski, which was bought by Sir Robert Viner and set up at Stocks Market for Charles II., came over unfinished, and a new head was added by Latham, hut the Turk on whom Sobieski was trampling remained with the whole groupe till removed to make way for the Lord Mayor’s Mansion House.” — Walpole's Anec., ed. Baliaway, iii. 152. “ Could Robin Viner have foreseen The glorious triumphs of his Master, The Wool-church statue gold had been, Which now is made of alabaster : But wise men think, had it been wood, ’Twere for a bankrupt king too good. * Stow, p. 85. 782 STONE BUILDINGS. Those that the fabric well consider, Do of it diversely discourse ; Some pass their censure of the rider, Others their judgment of the horse : Most say the steed’s a goodly thing, But all agree ’tis a lewd King.” The History of Insipids : a Lampoon , 1676, by The Lord Rochester. “ All these things have we at London : the product of the best Corn Fields at Queenhithe ; Hay, Straw and Cattle at Smithfield ; with Horses too : Where is such a garden in Europe as the Stocks Market ? where such a river as the Thames ? Such ponds and decoys as in Leadenhall Market for your fish and fowl.” — Shadwell , Bury Fair , 4to, 1689. Stocks Market was removed at Michaelmas, 1737, to the site of the present Farring don-street. Here it lost its name, and was known as Fleet Market. It still exists, under the name of Farringdon Market. The statue of Charles II. was set up on the 29th of May, 1672,* and, when taken down, was presented by the City in May, 1779, to Robert Viner, Esq., the legal representative of the loyal, ingenious, and convivial Lord Mayor, t There was a conduit as well, which ran with claret on the day the statue was set up.J Stone Buildings, Lincoln’s Inn. A handsome range of stone houses (hence the name) built from the designs of Sir Robert Taylor. The working drawings were made by a young man of the name of Leech, then a clerk in Taylor’s office, who after- wards became a student of Lincoln’s Inn, and died filling the high and lucrative office in the law of Master of the Rolls. Leech’s drawings are preserved in the library of Lincoln’s Inn. Observe. — Rule Office, removed from Sgmond’s Inn , Oct. 24th, 1845; New Exchequer Office, removed from Old-square, Lincoln’s Inn, on the same day. Storey’s Gate, Birdcage Walk, St. James’s Park, was so called after Edward Storey, who lived in a house on the site of the present gate, and was employed by Charles II. in the improve- ments which he made in St. James's Park. * London Gazette, No. 681. + It is of this Sir Robert Yiner that the capital story is told in the Spectator (No. 462), of his catching King Charles II. by the hand after a City feast, and crying out with a vehement oath and accent, just as the King was stepping into his coach, u Sir, you shall stay and take t’other bottle.” The merry monarch immediately turned back, and complied with his host, repeating a line in a favourite song : “ He that ’s drunk is as great as a King.” Viner was Mayor in 1675. J There is an engraving of the Stocks Market by Fletcher, published in 1752. STRAND (THE). 783 “ Their late Ma ties King William and Queen Mary by L res Patents under the Great Seale hearing date the 7th of June, 1690, did Demise to Richard Kent and Thomas Musgrave, Esqrs., at the nominacon of S r Henry Fane, A certain Peece of Land in the Parish of St. Margarett’s Westm r . without the wall of S 1 . James’s Parke extending in length from the north end of a Tene- ment late in the poss ion of John Webb to the south end of some sheddslate in the Tenure of William Storey, Five Hundred and Seaventy Feet or there- abouts To hold for Fifty years from the date at the Yearly Rent of Six Shil- lings and Eight Pence.”' — Sari. MS., No. 6811, Art. 3. “ Dropt in St. James’s Park, September the 3rd, 1705, betwixt Mr. Story’s and the Duke of Buckingham’s House, a Gold Minuit Pendulum Watch, &c. ; if offered to be Sold or pawn’d you are desired to stop the same and give notice to Mr. Padington at his house in Princes Court near Mr. Story’s” — The Daily Courant, Sept. 5th, 1 7 05. “ From nine to eleven I allow them to walk from Story’s to Rosamond’s Pond in the Park.” — Tatler , No. 113.* Strand (The). “ A way or street ”f of shops, theatres and insu- rance offices, reaching “from Charing-cross to Essex-street; ’’if from Essex-street to Temple Bar was “ Temple Bar Without.” It was long very little more than a “street,” “ way/’ or road be- tween the Cities of Westminster and London, and was not paved before Henry VIII. ’s reign, when (1532) an Act was passed for “paving the streetway between Charing Cross and Strand- cross, at the charge of the owners of the land.” One of the first ascertained inhabitants was Peter of Savoy, uncle of Henry III., to whom that king, in the thirtieth year of his reign, (1245), granted “ all those houses upon the Thames, which sometimes pertained to Briane de Insula, or Lisle, without the walls of the City of London, in the way or street called the Strand.” The Bishops were the next great dignitaries who had inns or houses in the Strand, connecting, as it were, the City with the King’s Palace at Westminster. “ Anciently,” says Selden in his Table Talk, “ the noblemen lay within the City for safety and security; but the bishops’ houses were by the water-side, because they were held sacred persons whom nobody would hurt.” As many as nine bishops possessed inns or hostels on the south or water side of the present Strand, at the period of the Reformation. The Bishop of Exeter’s inn was afterwards Essex House ; hence the present Essex-street. The * Pennant has an erroneous statement about the origin of the name. “ Where the iron gates at the bottom of that noble street, George-street, are placed, stood a stonehouse for the Ordnance in the time of Queen Mary. I remember a dirty dark passage leading into the Park, which preserves its memory, but was corruptly called Storey’s Gate.” + Stow, p. 164. X Parish Clerks’ Survey, 12mo, 1732. 784 STRAND (THE). Bishop of Bath’s inn was afterwards Arundel House ; hence the present Arundel-street. The inns of the three Bishops of Llandaff, Chester, and Worcester were swallowed up by the palace of the Protector Somerset, on the site of the present Somerset House. The Bishop of Carlisle’s inn (west of the Savoy) was afterwards Worcester House ; hence the present Beaufort-street. The Bishop of Durham’s inn (the London lodging in Queen Elizabeth’s reign of Sir Walter Raleigh) occupied the site of the present Durham-street, and the inn of the Archbishop of York (in which the great Lord Bacon was horn) was conveyed, in the reign of James I., to Yilliers, first Duke of Buckingham, whose name and titles are preserved in several streets between the Adelphi and Charing Cross. The upper or north side lay open to the fields, to St. Martin’s-in- the-Fields, St. Giles’s-in-the-Fields, and Covent Garden, as late as the reign of Charles I. A few noblemen’s mansions, how- ever, had been previously erected. Burleigh House, the London lodging of the great Lord Burleigh, on the site of the present Exeter-street and Exeter ’Change, and Bedford House, on the site of the present South ampton-street and Bedford-street, were built in the reign of Queen Elizabeth. Salisbury House, on the site of the present Cecil-street and Salisbury-street, and Northampton, now Northumberland House, were built in the reign of James I. Middleton, the dramatist, describes it not untruly at this time as “the luxurious Strand.”* Durham House was taken down in 1610, to erect the New Exchange ; York House was taken down in 1675 ; and Burleigh, or Exeter House in 1676, and Exeter ’Change erected the next year on the principal site. Arundel House was taken down in 1678; Worcester House in 1683 ; Salisbury House in 1696; Bedford House in 1704; Essex House in 1710; the New Exchange in 1737, and the Adelphi afterwards erected on the same site ; old Somerset House was taken down in 1775; Butcher-row, (on part of Pickett-street), in 1813 ; and Exeter ’Change in 1829, when the great Strand improvements at the West-end were commenced. “ The Lawyer embraced our young gentleman and gave him many riotous instructions how to carry himself : told him he must acquaint himself with many gallants of the Inns of Court, and keep rank with those that spend most, always wearing a bountiful disposition about him, lofty and liberal ; his lodging must be about the Strand, in any case, being remote from the handi- craft scent of the City.” — Father Hubburd's Tale } 4to, 1604, ( Middleton's Works , v. 573). * Middleton’s Works by Dyce, v. 578. STRAND (THE). 785 (i I send, I send here my supremest kiss To thee, my silver-footed Thamasis. No more shall I reiterate thy Strand, Whereon so many stately structures stand.” Herrick, His Teares to Thamasis. ee For divers yeares of late certain fishmongers have erected and set up fish- stalles in the middle of the street in the Strand, almost over against Denmark House, all which were broken down by speciall Commission, this moneth of May 1630, least in short space tbey might grow from stalles to shedds, and then to dwelling houses, as the like was in former time in Olde Fish Street, and in Saint Nicholas Shambles, and in other places.” — Howes, p. 1045, ed. 1631. (( Come let us leave the Temple’s silent walls, The business to my distant lodging calls : Through the long Strand together let us stray, With thee conversing I forget the way. Behold that narrow street, which steep descends, Whose building to the shining shore extends ; Here Arundel’s fam’d structure rear’d its frame. The street alone retains an empty name : Where Titian’s glowing paint the canvas warm’d, And Raphael’s fair design with judgment charm’d, Now hangs the Bell-man’s song, and pasted here, The coloured prints of Overton appear. Where statues breath’d the work of Phidias’ hands, A wooden pump or lonely watch-house stands ; There Essex’ stately pile adorn’d the shore, There Cecil’s, Bedford’s, Yilliers’, — now no more.” Gay, Trivia. “ Where the fair columns of St. Clement stand, Whose straitened bounds incroach upon the Strand ; Where the low pent-house bows the walker’s head, And the rough pavement wounds the yielding tread ; Where not a post protects the narrow space, And strung in twines combs dangle in thy face ; Summon at once thy courage, rouse thy care, Stand firm, look back, be resolute, beware. Forth issuing from steep lanes,* the Collier's steeds Drag the black load ; another cart succeeds, Team follows team, crowds heap’d on crowds appear.” — Ibid. Eminent Inhabitants, (not already mentioned). — Sir Harry Yane the elder, (temp. Charles I.), next door to Northumberland House, (then Suffolk House), in what we should now call No. 1, Strand ; this was long the official residence of the Secretary of State : — Mr. Secretary Nicholas was living here in Charles II. ’s reign. — W illiam Lilly, the astrologer, (d. 1681), at “ the corner house, over against Strand Bridge.” He was servant, for some time, to a man of the name of Gilbert Wright, and performed many of the menial offices of his house ; swept the street before * Milford- lane. 786 STRAND (THE). his door ; cleaned his shoes ; scraped the trenchers, and played the part of tub hoy to the Thames in carrying water for his master’s use. “I have helped,” he says, “to carry eighteen tubs of water in one morning. ’ ’ Lilly got on in life — married his master’s widow, and came, at last, to possess the house in which he had performed so many menial occupations. — William Faithorne, the engraver, (d. 1691), “at the sign of the Ship, next to the Drake, opposite to the Palsgrave Head Tavern, without Temble Bar.” — P. Tempest, the engraver of the Cries of London, which bear his name : — “ There is now Published the Cryes and Habits of London, lately drawn after the Life in great Variety of Actions, Curiously Engraved upon 50 Copper Plates, fit for the Ingenious and Lovers of Art. Printed and Sold by P. Tempest over against Somerset House in the Strand.” — The London Gazette , May 28th to 31s£, 1688. Jacob Tonson, the bookseller and friend of Dryden, “ at Shak- speare’s Head, over against Catherine-street, in the Strand,” now No. 141 ; the house (since re-built) was afterwards occupied by Andrew Millar, the publisher, and friend of Thomson, Fielding, Hume and Robertson ; and after Millar’s death by Thomas Cadell, his apprentice, and friend and publisher of Gibbon. Thomson’s Seasons, Fielding’s Tom Jones, and the Histories of Hume, Robertson, and Gibbon were first published at this house. Millar was a Scotchman, and distinguished his house hy the sign of “Buchanan’s Head.” — “At the corner of Beaufort-buildings, in the Strand,” lived Charles Lillie, the perfumer, known to every reader of the Tatler and the Spectator. Observe. — No. 165, Inglis’s warehouse, for the sale of Dr. Anderson’s Scots Pills. Dr. Patrick Anderson was physician to Charles I., and a person of the name of Inglis sold Dr. Anderson’s Pills in 1699, “ at the Golden Unicorn, over against the Maypole, in the Strand.” “ There are,” says Tom Brown, “ at least half a score of pretenders to Anderson’s Scotch Pills, and the Lord knows who has the true preparation.” — No. 346, (east corner of Upper Wellington-street), Doyley’s ware- house for woollen articles. Dryden, in his Limberham, speaks of “Doily Petticoats,” and Steele, in the Guardian, (No. 102), of his “ Doily Suit while Gay, in his Trivia, describes a Doyly as a poor defence against the cold. No. 217, (now Sir John Dean Paul’s Bank), was Snow the goldsmith’s, commemorated by Gay, in a copy of verses. No. 277 (opposite Norfolk-street, now Wilson’s, the theatrical wig maker) was, in the time of Queen Anne, the shop of Bat Pidgeon, known to every reader of the Spectator ; * the house has been stuccoed over, but the * Smith’s Nollekens, i. 337. STRAND BRIDGE. 787 brick-work beneath is still the same.* No. 132 was the shop of a bookseller, of the name of Bathoe : this was the first cir- culating library in London, and was established in 1740. The house, immediately adjoining Temple Bar, on the north side, stands on the site of a small pent-house of lath and plaster, occupied for many years by Crockford, (d. 1844), as a shell- fish shop ; here he made a large sum of money, which, increas- ing in process of time, enabled him to establish the Club in St. James’s- street, which bore his name. [See Crockford’s.] He would never permit the house to be altered in his lifetime ; but immediately after his death, it was gutted throughout, and the present yellow brick front erected in place of the picturesque pent-house and James I. gable. [See Savoy; Essex House; Somerset House ; Durham House ; York House ; Arundel House ; Burleigh House ; Bedford House ; Worcester House ; Salisbury House in the Strand ; Northumberland House ; Adelphi Theatre ; Lyceum Theatre ; New Exchange ; Exeter Change ; St. Clement’s Danes ; Maypole, and the several streets along the line.] Strand Bridge. At one time a common name for the beautiful bridge, by Rennie, now universally known as Waterloo Bridge. It was previously applied to a small landing pier at the foot of Strand-lane. [See Strand Lane.] “ Then had ye in the high street a fair bridge called Strand Bridge, and under it a lane or way down to the landing-place on the hank of Thames.” — Stow , p. 165. “ I landed with ten sail of Apricock boats at Strand Bridge, after having put in at Nine Elms, and taken in melons, consigned by Mr. Cuffe of that place to Sarah Sewell and Company at their stall in Co vent Garden.” — The Spectator , No. 454. Strand Inn. An Inn of Court belonging to the Middle Temple. It was pulled down by the Protector Somerset, and part of the present Somerset House occupies the site. Strand Lane, in the Strand, near Somerset House, led, in the olden time, to Strand-bridge (or pier), in the same way that Ivy -lane, in the Strand, led to Ivy-bridge (or pier). Then had ye in the high street a fair bridge called Strand Bridge, and under * This account does not agree wdth Pennant’s statement, that Bat Pidgeon lived “ in the corner house of St. Clement’s Churchyard next to the Strand.” Pennant is an authority on this point, (on any point, • indeed, within his own recollection), for he says that Bat, in his advanced age, “had cut his boyish locks in the year 1740.” 788 STRATFORD-LE-BOW. it a lane or way down to the landing-place on the hanks of the Thames.” — - Stow , p. 165. The “ Roman Batli ” in this lane will repay a visit. Strand (Streights i* the). [See Bermudas ; Butcher Bow ; Porridge Island.] “ Justice Overdo. Look into any angle of the town, the Streights, or the Bermudas, where the quarrelling lesson is read, and how do they entertain the time hut with bottle-ale and tobacco?” — Ben Jonson , Bartholomew Fair. “ Their very trade Is borrowing ; that but stopt they do invade All as their prize, turn pirates here at land, Have their Bermudas, and their Streights i’ the Strand.” Ben Jonson to Sir Edward Sackville. Strangers’ Friend Society, 7, Exeter Hall, Strand. Esta- blished in 1785, for the purpose of searching out and relieving the sick poor at their own wretched abodes throughout the metropolis. In 1843, the society relieved 7456 cases of distress, chiefly families, on an income less than 3000A a year. The expenses of the Society are under 1 507. a year.* Stratford-le-Bow. Formerly a hamlet of Stepney, and made into a separate parish in 1 720. It lies two miles to the east of London, or a mile beyond Mile End, and derives its name of Stratford from a ford through the river Lea, near one of the Roman highways, and its addition of Bow from a stone bridge over the Lea, on bows or arches, (hence Bow Church ), built by Matilda, Queen of Henry I., now replaced by a modern one. The French of Chaucers Prioress was spoken in the Stratford manner.