PRACTICAL 
 
 BLACKSMITHING 
 
 COLLECTIoir (jr AHrficaj^l pOlfi:faBUTfI>*.4'^*«.D]j^I*EI^ljT:ljMj3S 
 SKILLED 'WCTRKJIEIJ 'TO'Tlffi* CCLtlMJ:^* 'oi* *" TIIe* BLAdfeSMITa* 
 AND WHEEL^4^iIGHT 'J AND COVERING^ ^NEARLY. THE 
 
 WHOLE •RljfdE: ioF ZfiLicilikanrHfiNe:.^^ 
 
 THE SKVIpiE8T**jaK*6F'''\HjKK TC? * * * 
 
 SOME OF THE MOST COM- 
 PLEX FORGINGS. 
 
 Compiled and Edited by 
 
 M. T. RICHARDSON, 
 
 Editor of "The Blacksmith and Wheelwright." 
 
 IlylvUSXRATTKE). 
 
 VOLUME IL 
 
 New York 
 M. T. RICHARDSON, Publisher. 
 1889, 
 
PRACTICAL BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 VOL. II. 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 In Vol. I. the editor of this work gave a brief ac- 
 count of the early history of blacksmithing, so far as 
 known, and described a few ancient and many mod- 
 ern tools. ' 
 
 Numerous plans of shops were given with best 
 methods of building chi*mneys and constructing 
 forges. 
 
 This volume opens with a brief treatise on the 
 early history of iron and steel. Artistic iron work 
 is then considered, and the tests employed to show 
 the strength of iron are given. 
 
 It was the original intention to compress all the 
 material relating to tools in Vol. L, but this was 
 found to be impracticable without largely increasing 
 the size of the volume, and possibly the price as 
 well. It was deemed best therefore to devote so 
 much of Vol. II., as might be necessary, to the fur- 
 
 3jLq 
 
2 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 ther consideration of tools, and the reader will doubt- 
 less agree with us that the space has not be^n 
 wasted. 
 
 Vol. III. will be devoted mainly to the consider- 
 ation of jobs of work. 
 
 The Editor. 
 
CHAPTER I. 
 
 IRON AND STEEL. 
 
 THEIR ANTIQUITY AND GREAT USEFULNESS. 
 
 All mechanics, irrespective of the trades which 
 they follow, have so much to do with iron in its vari- 
 ous forms, either by working it or by using tools 
 and instruments in the construction of which it forms 
 an important part, that a brief consideration of the 
 material, both retrospective and present, cannot fail 
 to be of interest. To trace the development of iron 
 from its earliest known exi-tence to the present, and 
 to glance at its use as a material of construction, 
 that, unlike all others can rarely be dispensed with 
 in favor of a .substitute equally desirable, cannot fail 
 to be of the greatest interest. 
 
 In the description of the building of Solomon's 
 Temple there is no specific statement that iron was 
 employed, although by inference it is understood 
 " that this material must have been used in the tools 
 of the workmen, if for no other purpose. It is not 
 to be forgotten that the record says there was nei- 
 ther hammer nor axe, nor tool of iron heard in the 
 
4 
 
 BLACKSMITH ING. 
 
 house while it was being built. A plausible con- 
 struction to place upon this assertion is that the 
 parts were fashioned and fitted together at distant 
 places, and were joined noiselessly in completing 
 the structure. This view of the case serves to point 
 out the excellence of the skill of that day, for, how- 
 ever great the care that is exercised at the present 
 time by mechanics, few buildings are put up in which 
 the sound of tools in the shaping of the various parts, 
 after they have been sent to the building for putting 
 up, might be dispensed with. 
 
 King David, it is said, had in his collection of ma- 
 terials "iron in abundance for the doors of the 
 gates and for the joinings." Other allusions to iron 
 are to be found in the Old Testament Scriptures. 
 Some passages are of figurative character, where 
 iron is the emblem of hardness, strength and power. 
 Others are descriptive, and indicate its uses in those 
 early times. 
 
 The manufacture of iron existed in India from 
 very remote antiquity, though carried on in a very 
 primitive manner. Vast accumulations of slag and 
 cinder are found spread over large areas in various 
 districts, and the manufacture of iron is still carried 
 on with little change from the ancient process. In 
 one of the temples near Delhi there is a wrought- 
 iron pillar sixty feet in length, which dates as far back 
 as the fourth century of the present era. It is only 
 of late years that the production of a shaft of these 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 5 
 
 dimensions has been possible to the present race of 
 iron-workers. 
 
 The extent to which iron was employed by the 
 ancient Egyptians is a problem difficult of solution. 
 When the enormous labor expended upon the ma- 
 sonry and sculpture in the hardest granite, and the 
 beautiful surface and high finish generally displayed 
 in the architectural works of that country are con- 
 sidered, it seems difficult to imagine that tools in- 
 ferior to the hardest steel could have produced the 
 result, yet the evidence is exceedingly slight that any- 
 thing of the kind was employed. Bronze is some 
 times found in ancient tombs in that country in a 
 variety of forms, but iron is almost entirely wanting. 
 Iron mines have been discovered in Upper Egypt, 
 and the remains of iron-works have been found re- 
 cently near Mount Sinai. An iron plate was found 
 in one of the pyramids, and a sickle in one of the 
 tombs at Thebes. 
 
 The use of iron by the Romans was of compara- 
 tively late introduction. The fine specular iron of 
 the Isle of Elba had been smelted by the Etruscans 
 from an early date, but it does not seem to have 
 been extensively used in Italy. It was not until the 
 time of the second Punic War that the Romans, ex- 
 tending their conquests beyond their narrow orig- 
 inal seat, obtained supplies of iron and steel from 
 Spain, and discarded their bronze weapons for the 
 harder and keener metal. Iron was little used by any 
 
6 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 of the ancient nations in building construction. 
 When Virgil describes the splendors of Dido's rising 
 city, no mention is made of iron in any form. Stone, 
 with the addition of bronze for plating, are the ma- 
 terials especially alluded to. 
 
 In the New Testament mention is made of an iron 
 gate which would seem to indicate that at that period 
 iron had been brought into use in many forms, more, 
 however, in the way of machinery, armor and weap- 
 ons, than in building construction. For all construct- 
 ive purposes bronze was gradually superseded by 
 iron, and during the middle ages was worked with 
 great skill and success. Iron employed at this period 
 was not made by the process of fusion and puddling, 
 but was obtained direct from the ore by roasting 
 with charcoal and working it under the hammer. 
 The metal thus obtained was of excellent quality, 
 and such examples as have come down to us indicate 
 that it was very skilfully manipulated. Armor and 
 weapons attained a high degree of efficiency, and 
 were finished with great taste. 
 
 There are very few specimens remaining in any- 
 thing like perfection of the mediaeval smith's work. 
 Enough fragments, however, are in existence to in- 
 dicate the extreme beauty of the workmanship of 
 this age. The rich and graceful curves of the work 
 done at this time, together with their lightness and 
 strength, show what capabilities exist in iron when 
 freely treated in accordance with its nature. Prob- 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 7 
 
 ably the grills or screens and the gates of the middle 
 ages exhibited the art of the smith in its greatest 
 perfection. Nothing that has been made in modern 
 times is equal to'the specimens which remain of that 
 period. The wonder arises that, with such simple 
 means as were at the command of the mechanics and 
 artists of that day, such wonderful effects could be 
 produced. 
 
 During the Romanesque period iron does not 
 seem to have been employed, even in carpentry or 
 masonry. At the end of the twelfth century iron 
 cramps were employed at the Cathedral of Notre 
 Dame, Paris, to connect the stones of the cobbled 
 corners. The oxidation of these cramps in the 
 course of time had the effect of fracturing the stones. 
 Experience in this practice does not seem to have 
 taught wisdom, for, even at the present day, the mis- 
 take of using iron in similar positions has frequently 
 led to like results. 
 
 We owe to Germany the discovery of the process 
 by which fusible iron could be smelted from the ore. 
 It probably arose from the gradual improvement of 
 the blowing apparatus, by which the old blast bloom- 
 eries were transformed into blast furnaces. Cast 
 iron was unknown prior to the middle of the six- 
 teenth century. About 1550 the German system, 
 above alluded to, was introduced into England, 
 where there already existed great facilities in the 
 enormous quantity of scoriae accumulated about the 
 
8 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 ancient bloomeries and in the abundance of timber 
 for fuel. Progress in the art was so rapid that cast- 
 iron ordnance was an article of export from England 
 early in the seventeenth century. As the art of 
 casting made progress, the art of the smith declined. 
 The cheapness of cast iron and the facility with which 
 it could be manipulated, led to its extensive use in 
 every department of life. 
 
 In 1735, the problem of smelting iron with pit 
 coal was successfully solved, but it was not until 
 within a very recent period that the advantages of 
 iron on any great scale developed themselves. Down 
 to the commencement of the present century the 
 casting of iron pipe was so difficult and costly an 
 operation, that in schemes for the supply of water 
 to towns, wooden pipes were adopted for the mains. 
 In 1777 the first experiment was made with iron as a 
 material in bridge building. At present scarcely a 
 bridge of any importance is constructed of other 
 material. 
 
 Having thus glanced hastily at the progress of 
 manufacture and the use of iron from the earliest 
 historical periods to the present time, the inquiry 
 comes up, what is to be its influence in the future .? 
 That it will contribute materially to aid man's power 
 over the elements of nature is certain, but the moral 
 results which are likely to follow lie beyond our 
 province. All true designs arise out of construction. 
 Every style which has. attained any eminence owes 
 
blacksmithing. 9 
 
 Its effect to the adoption of its essential parts as 
 sources of beauty rather than an attempt to conceal 
 them. The use of iron in any construction or design 
 is a source of power and effect, put into the hands ot 
 the architect for good or for evil. 
 
 The Strength of Wrought Iron and Steel. 
 
 There is something very interesting, but not alto- 
 gether as yet understood, in the behavior and 
 strength of iron and steel when loaded. 
 
 It is all very well to institute certain tests to find 
 the number of pounds it requires to break a piece 
 having a sectional area of one square inch, and from 
 this pronounce what is the strength of the iron ; be- 
 cause, with our present knowledge and appliances, it 
 is all we can do, and a test of some kind is of course 
 imperative. It is a curious fact, however, that the 
 strength of a piece of iron or steel varies according 
 to the manner in which the load is applied. If the 
 metal receives its load suddenly, it will break under 
 a less weight than if the load comes on slowly and 
 gradually increases ; and the difference is not a 
 minute one either, for it is as great as 20 per cent 
 under the two extremes of conditions. One of the most 
 eminent constructing engineers in this country stated 
 not long since, in reply to a question, that he would 
 make as much as 20 per cent difference in the strength 
 of two beams to receive the same load, one to have 
 
10 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 the load suddenly, and the other to have it gradual- 
 ly applied. From this it is a fair and reasonable de- 
 duction that if the load, when applied, caused vibra- 
 tion, the beam would require still greater dimensions 
 to be of equal strength, because vibrations are simply 
 minute movements, and, in the case of horizontal 
 beams, on moving downward increase the pressure of 
 the load. 
 
 A short time since some experiments were made to 
 ascertain the strength of iron and steel wire, two 
 specimens of each size of wire being used, one just as 
 the iron came from the mill and the other an annealed 
 specimen. 
 
 The wires were suspended vertically, and a certain 
 weight, as say lo lbs., was hung on them. Then in 
 some cases a ^Ib. weight per day was added, in 
 others i lb. per day, in yet others the weights were 
 increased as fast as they could be put on, and in every 
 instance it was found that the breaking strains in- 
 creased according as the time between the increases 
 of weight was made longer, the amount varying from 
 ID to 20 per cent. The failure of the boiler plates of 
 the English steamship Livadia elicited some inter- 
 esting facts and strange opinions upon the behavior 
 of low-grade steel. The facts concerning these 
 plates are given below. The boiler was 14 feet 3 
 inches diameter by 16 feet long. The plates were 
 ^-inch thick, lap-jointed and treble riveted. The 
 plates were all punched, then slightly heated 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 an(d bent to shape^ afterwards put together, and 
 the rivet holes reamed out to size. While under 
 thiis treatment one of the plates fell out of the 
 slimgs on to an iron plate and was cracked right 
 across the rivet holes. Naturally this gave some 
 anxiety, but after the plates were all in the boiler 
 itself, they cracked across the rivet holes in nearly 
 all directions ; that is, many of them did. 
 
 Investigation was immediately set up, chemically 
 and mechanically, when it appeared, as nearly as 
 CO uld be ascertained, that although the stock was good 
 of which the plates were made, it had not been 
 thoroughly worked under the hammer before roll- 
 in sf. 
 
 Dr. Siemens, the inventor of the process which 
 bears his name, asserts that annealing plates, either 
 before or after working (punching), is of no ad- 
 vantage ; tending, if anything, to injure rather than 
 benefit the materials. Many practical men, how- 
 ever, hold views in opposition to Dr. Siemens on 
 this question. — By Joshua Rose. 
 
 The Rotting and Crystallization of Iron. 
 
 I noticed an article lately, in which an iron work- 
 er, who claims an experience of fifty years in his 
 trade, says that iron rots as well as crystallizes un- 
 der strain and jar. The latter part of this statement 
 is correct in degree only. The springs of vehicles 
 
12 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 deteriorate by use and excessive strain, but not to 
 the extent which the writer of the article I refer to 
 represents, as the springs of thousands of old ve- 
 hicles will attest, in which not a leaf is broken, al- 
 though the remainder of the gear is worn out. 
 
 And although iron may be crystalline in the frac- 
 ture it does not lose its tensile strength to any great 
 extent, unless under a very great strain or jar, as in 
 the case of quartz-mill stamp stems, which are lifted 
 and dropped about once a second, are run night and 
 day, including Sundays, and even then will stand 
 several years of this hard usage before breaking. 
 The danger of iron losing its tensile strength is 
 greatly exaggerated in the article in question. If it 
 were not so people would be afraid to go over and 
 under the Brooklyn bridge. 
 
 The statement that iron rots is absolutely untrue, 
 and if the crowbars referred to in the article men- 
 tioned would not weld readily, and had a bad smell 
 when heated, the odor was from the sulphur and 
 phosphorus which the iron contained, and which was 
 present in the iron when it was made, like much of 
 the first iron in early attempts at iron making by 
 using stone coal. The iron did not absorb, it could 
 not have absorbed sulphur and phosphorus from 
 age or exposure to the atmosphere. 
 
 The art of iron making has progressed in spite of 
 all statements to the contrary, and iron is made 
 smelted with stone coal, which is as good as the best 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 13 
 
 Swedish charcoal iron, and even better for some 
 purposes, and the iron makers manufacture any 
 grade of iron to suit price or purpose. 
 
 When iron, by reason of long-continued strain or 
 jar, breaks^ showing a crystalline fracture, its chem- 
 ical constituents are still the same as when it was 
 made, and when heated and welded it will resume 
 its fibrous appearance and its original toughness, as 
 I know from much practical experience in welding 
 broken stamp stems and heavy iron axles. 
 
 Rolling mills were invented about a hundred years 
 ago, but if the practical wiseacre is in favor of the 
 old system of laboriously pounding out a bar of iron 
 filled with hammer marks by the trip hammer, why 
 that settles the rolling mills of course. — By R. R. 
 
 Steel and iron. 
 
 I have been turning in my mind some of the gen- 
 erally accepted theories about iron and steel, and 
 wondering when the general public will drop the no- 
 tion that the main distinguishing feature between 
 the two is that one will harden and the other will 
 not. 
 
 Does a piece harden ? It is steel. 
 Is it found impossible to harden another piece? 
 It is iron. 
 
 Many people go no further than this in deciding 
 the character of pieces under examination, and still 
 
14 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 there is steel that will not harden which is almost 
 equal to tool steel. Growing out of these wide dif- 
 ferences between different steels and irons there is a 
 continuous discussion and much misconception as to 
 real facts. That a piece of Swedes iron of irregular 
 structure, with minute seams, sand streaks and im- 
 purities, should contain sufficient carbon to harden 
 would hardly make it valuable for edge tools. Nor 
 would a piece of cast-steel of the most unexception- 
 able structure be of any great value for the same 
 use, in a commercial sense, if the necessary carbon 
 were lacking. How often is heard the very positive 
 assertion in regard to certain articles which should 
 be made of steel and hardened, " They are nothing 
 but iron," and quite recently there has appeared in 
 trade journals an article on cutlery, in which it is 
 charged that " table knives are made of iron, on ac- 
 count of the greater facility with which iron can be 
 worked." 
 
 That cast-iron shears and scissors with chilled 
 edges, and cast-iron hammers and hatchets sand- 
 wiched in with malleable iron and steel castings, to 
 take the place of instruments which are generally 
 supposed to be forged from steel and hardened and 
 tempered in the regular way, are to be found on the 
 market is true, but when it comes to groods which 
 are made in the regular way, we need not believe 
 that wrought iron is used to any great extent where 
 steel should be. That a tool is soft does not prove 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 15 
 
 that it might not have been hardened to be one of 
 the best of its kind. That a tool proves to be as 
 brittle as glass, breaking at the very beginning of 
 service, does not prove that the steel of which it was 
 made was of poor quality, for, properly treated, it 
 might have been hardened to be of the very best. 
 
 In this matter of deciding as to the merits of steel 
 there is too much of jumping at conclusions, and so 
 the self-constituted judges are continually called upon 
 to reverse their decisions. No decision would be 
 considered to be in order on a matter of law until the 
 evidence was all in, and not till the evidence was laid 
 before a judge and jury would they be asked to render 
 a decision. No more can a man expect to decide off- 
 hand the character of steel, for what may be attributed 
 to poor quality may be due to bad condition caused by 
 unfair treatment, while to know what would have 
 been fair treatment one must know the quality of 
 steel. Much stress is put upon the fact that only 
 certain brands of imported steel are used by some 
 American manufacturers, who tell us that " they can 
 depend upon it every time — well, nearly every time," 
 and that "they don't have to be so particular about 
 heating it. If it is heated a little too hot it won't 
 crack, but will stand to do something. They like a 
 little leeway." These men seem to think that it is 
 just that particular brand of steel which possesses 
 the qualities of safety of which they think so much, 
 and we hear them say, 's steel does this and 
 
i6 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 that, but you cannot do it with steel, it would 
 
 fly all in pieces treated the same way." 
 
 How is it? Does anybody who has studied upon 
 the subject a little, suppose that when a particular 
 grade of steel of any brand has been found to be 
 right for a certain use, while the first bar used of 
 some other brand without reference to the grade has 
 proved to be apparently of no value, that that settles 
 it, or that ground is furnished for saying that the 
 steel from one manufacturer shows certain charac- 
 teristics which the other does not ? 
 
 Then, after a certain grade of any brand of steel 
 has been settled upon as right, it will not do to con- 
 demn too broadly steel of another brand, which with 
 the same treatment accorded to the favorite steel 
 fails, for it is quite likely that, with the different 
 treatment which this grade of the new brand requires, 
 it might prove equally as good as the " long-tried 
 and only trusted steel," or, if not of the right grade, 
 a grade could be furnished of the new brand fully as 
 good as the best of the old brand, while it is reason- 
 ably certain that had a change of grade with- 
 out change of brand been made the result would 
 have been much the same. Too much weight is put 
 upon a name ; and we hear steel-workers lauding 
 the especially good qualities of this or that steel 
 and condemning the bad qualities of others, when 
 the fact is that both the words of praise and blame 
 apply to the grades of steel and their treatment and 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 17 
 
 condition, not to the fact that this or that was made 
 in Pittsburg or Sheffield. The steel maker, whether 
 he will or not, must, and does, make a variety of 
 grades — tempers — of steel ; and upon a judicious 
 and honest selection of the right temper for any par- 
 ticular use, and upon just the treatment required— 
 especially in hardening — hang the desired results. 
 
 " Jessup steel doesn't do this," says one of its ad- 
 mirers, but a grade of Jessup's can be had which 
 will, without doubt. 
 
 Said an enthusiastic admirer of a " special" brand 
 of imported steel to the writer : 
 
 " That steel stands to do what no American steel 
 will do at all ; on this work-tools from it have stood 
 to work five and even six hours without grinding." 
 
 A few months later this same man said, in speak- 
 ing of the same work : 
 
 " The result in using tools made from the pieces 
 of American steel which you sent by mail were sim- 
 ply wonderful ; some of them stood to work without 
 grinding two entire days of ten hours !" 
 
 With steel of proper temper from reliable makers, 
 there are possibilities of which many men who look 
 upon steel as steel simply, and who judge its quality 
 in advance by the brand it bears, have never 
 dreamed ; and of those who pride themselves on be- 
 ing thoroughly American, and still persist in using 
 English steel, what can be thought, except that they 
 have not carefully investigated to learn the merits 
 
i8 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 of American Steel ? For it is well known that for 
 every difificult job done with English steel there is 
 
 Fig. I — Wrought Iron Balustrade by M. Baudrit. of Paris. 
 
 the equal done daily with American steel. — S. W. 
 Goodyear, in the Age of Steel, 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 1 9 
 
 Modern French and English Wrought Ironwork 
 
 Attention has been called at different times to the 
 possibilities in wrought iron work in the art line, 
 
 Fig. 2 — Wrought Iron Railing by Ratcliff & Tyler, of Birmingham. 
 
 and examples of work have occasionally been pre- 
 sented showing what has been done add may be 
 
20 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 done in this direction. Figs, i and 2 show two very 
 handsome designs, Fig. i being a specimen of 
 wrought ironwork from the establishment of M. 
 Baudrit, of Paris. It is original in design and ad- 
 mirable in execution. There is a charming variety in 
 the work, characteristic of the high productions of 
 French artists. The lower portion is solid, as the 
 foundation of the terminal post of a balustrade 
 should be, but it lies on the stairs naturally and 
 elegantly. The upright pillar and hand-rail are 
 sufficiently massive, while the decorative portion has 
 all the light elegance of a flower. 
 
 In this country our designers are wont to draw 
 work of this kind for execution in cast iron, and so 
 accustomed have we become to casting all orna- 
 mental work of a similar character that our black- 
 smiths scarcely know what it is possible to accom- 
 plish with the hammer and anvil. Fig. 2 is not less 
 striking, and is an example of work in good taste for 
 a similar purpose to that shown in the first instance. 
 It is as unlike it, however, in character and execution 
 as the two nations from which these two pieces of 
 work come. Fig. 2 represents a continuous balustrade 
 executed by Messrs. Ratcliff & Tyler, of Birming- 
 ham. An oval in the center is very happily arranged 
 panel fashion between the scroll work which serves 
 the purpose of pilasters. The design is neither too 
 ornamental nor is it poor. The connecting links of 
 the work, including the attachments to the stairs, are 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 21 
 
 graceful and effective. This pattern also, if made in 
 this country, would very likely be executed in cast 
 metal, and would lose all those peculiar character- 
 istics that render it attractive, and, as at present, 
 considered an example of true art workmanship. 
 The mechanical ingenuity of our smiths is univer- 
 sally acknowledged, but in artistic taste ^nd in the 
 ability to execute ornamental work they are very 
 much behind those of other nations. 
 
 Upsetting Steel and Iron. 
 
 I have recently read some things in relation to the 
 upsetting of iron and steel, which are so much at vari- 
 ance with the generally accepted ideas on the subject, 
 and at the same time so flatly contradict what the 
 every-day experiences of many mechanics show to 
 be facts, as to prompt me to offer some testimony. 
 
 First, as to the " Upsetting of Iron," for under 
 this heading may be found in a trade journal of 
 recent date " a very interesting reference to the 
 " quality of movements of the particles of iron under 
 pressure or percussion." . . . " Red-hot iron can 
 be pressed to fill a mold as clearly and exactly as so 
 much wax could be." ..." Cold iron can also 
 be molded into form by pressure." . . . "The 
 heading of rivets, bolts and wood-screw blanks shows 
 some surprising results in the compression of Iron ; 
 a No. 6 i-inch screw requires a piece of wire slightly 
 
22 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 more than i 1-2 inches long to form it. Yet the 
 total length of the screw blank headed is just one 
 inch. . . . Now, it has been proved by experi- 
 ments with shorter bits of wire that less than five- 
 sixteenths of an inch of the extra eight-sixteenths is 
 required to form the screw head. What becomes of 
 the remaining more than three-sixteenths of an inch 
 in length of an original i 1-2 inches that make the 
 i-inch screw blank ? There can be but one answer 
 — the iron is driven upon itself, ... so that 
 I 1-16 inches of wire are compressed into seven- 
 eighths of an inch in length without increasing the 
 diameter of the wire." 
 
 This flatly contradicts the assertions of scientific 
 investigators, who have, after making many exhaust- 
 ive experiments^ concluded that cold working of iron 
 and steel, such as hammering, rolling, drawing, press- 
 ing, upsetting, etc., do not increase the specific 
 gravity. Is it likely that in the many careful exper- 
 iments made by the most painstaking of men, the 
 experiments involving the most accurate measure- 
 ments possible, added to the unquestionable tests of 
 specific gravity, there has been uniformly a miscon- 
 ception of the real facts, and that experiments made 
 by measuring a blank piece of wire — possibly with a 
 boxwood rule — before heading, and again measuring 
 the length of blank produced by heading the same 
 wire, are to upset this proven fact, that ordinary cold 
 working does not make iron and steel more dense ? 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 23 
 
 Where does the iron go, then ? It goes to round 
 up the contour of the die in which the blank is 
 headed, that entire part of the block constituting the 
 body, and to fill the die for the entire length of the 
 body of the blank, through the upsetting process, to 
 a fullness which in solid dies defies the efforts of any 
 but the best of carefully hardened and tempered steel 
 punches, from best of steel, to push out of the dies 
 after heading rivets and screw blanks, making the 
 question of what steel to use for "punching out in 
 solid die heading," one of the most important con- 
 nected with the business. 
 
 In heading a screw-blank or rivet, the first effect 
 produced by the longitudinal pressure applied is to 
 upset the piece of wire for its entire length. The 
 diminution in length will produce an exactly propor- 
 tionate increase in diameter up to the point when the 
 wire fills the die so tightly as to transfer the most of 
 the upsetting effect of the continued pressure to that 
 part of the wire not encircled by the die, and then 
 comes the heading, which begins by increasing 
 diameter and proportionately decreasing length, the 
 metal being in a measure held by contact with the die 
 and heading punch from lateral expansion. As the 
 pressure continues, it assumes first a pear shape, simply 
 following the not necessarily written law under which 
 all metals under pressure yield in the direction of the 
 least resistance, and soon a shoulder is formed, which, 
 coming in contact with the face of the die, or bottom 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 of countersink, depending upon the shape of die, the 
 direct or entire resistance to the pressure applied has 
 no longer to be supplied by the body of the wire as 
 at first. But still, as the pear-shaped bulb is gradu- 
 ally pressed out of that shape into the shape required 
 in the completed blank or rivet, a time will come 
 when a portion of the superfluous metal back of the 
 body of the blank, or representing the center of the 
 head, can escape more easily in the direction of the 
 pressure, thereby still further increasing the diameter 
 of the body of the blank, than to escape altogether in 
 a lateral direction under the immense pressure re- 
 quired toward the completion of the heading process. 
 
 "Without increasing the diameter of the wire," 
 we quoted, it would not be possible, in any commer- 
 cial sense, to do anything of the kind. Did the writer 
 who stated as a fact that this was the rule realize the 
 improbability of the statement which he virtually 
 makes, z. e., that over 17^ per cent of the wire en- 
 tering into the body of the blank described by him 
 has been lost, if, as he says, the diameter remains un- 
 changed ? 
 
 I once made some carefully conducted experiments 
 to prove or disprove the truth of the assertion, which 
 I had often made, that cold swaging did increase the 
 specific gravity of steel, but which was denied by 
 those who, having learned by actual experiment that 
 other cold working did not, felt sure that the effect 
 of cold swaging would be the same as that of other 
 
BLACKSMITHlNG. 
 
 ^5 
 
 methods. My experiments were made with pieces of 
 steel rod, each two feet in length, by reducing them 
 by cold swaging until they were nearly eight feet 
 long, and, having first carefully measured the original 
 length and diameter, the increased length and de- 
 creased diameter was to show by measurement 
 whether the specific gravity had been increased by 
 swaging. I have not the figures at hand, but they 
 showed on my side ; still, when I presented them to 
 my opponents, they met me with the statement that 
 " there was too little difference to talk about, and, if 
 my measurement had been absolutely correct, I had 
 established nothing further than to appear to show 
 the exception, which proved the rule. Cold working 
 did not increase density; this was a well-known prin- 
 ciple." Well, it was not much. The fraction of an 
 inch which showed the difference in length of pieces 
 from what they should have been, had the specific 
 gravity remained unchanged, was represented by a 
 figure in the third or fourth place in decimals, not 
 much like the 0.1875=3-16 of an inch, which the 
 writer from whom we have quoted would have us be- 
 lieve was lost from i ^ inches in length, when it is con- 
 sidered that in my experiments there were pieces sixty- 
 four times as long in which lost metal might hide, 
 and still not more than the one-hundredth part as 
 much had hidden in the eight feet as is claimed for 
 i'^ inches. 
 
 Some facts are hard to swallow unless dressed up 
 
26 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 to appear reasonable. " Upsetting iron," as applied 
 to heading, cannot be easily upset by anybody who will 
 take the time to compare diameters and specific grav- 
 i y of wire before heading with those of headed 
 blanks. 
 
 " Upsetting steel " is spoken of by some persons, 
 whose information on the subject of steel working is 
 very extensive, as one of the most pernicious of 
 practices, and, by the way the subject is treated, one 
 might suppose that they fully believed that steel was 
 made up of fibres, which must be always worked in 
 one direction. Steel is of a crystalline nature — not 
 fibrous — and such of it as will be ruined by upsetting 
 within reasonable limits, the operation being per- 
 formed intelligently, is not good, sound steel. 
 
 Pursuing the subject of heading, I can testify that 
 in the days when our grandfathers worked steel I 
 made heading dies of two inches diameter by upset- 
 ting ii^-inch octagon steel, which stood to do as 
 much work as any that I could make from steel of 
 other shape and size Of hundreds which were made 
 in this way, I do not remember that seams or cracks 
 resulted from upsetting in a single instance. If the 
 steel was sound, and the work in upsetting was so 
 distributed as to affect all parts of the mass alike, 
 why should they ? 
 
 As to upsetting cold chisels, strips of sheet-steel, 
 iron, or pieces of steel of any shape which are so 
 slender as to double up like straws from the power 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 27 
 
 of the blow, there are not enough blacksmiths wast- 
 ing time and injuring steel in that way to call for any 
 protest. Steel is hammered with a view to improve 
 it many times, in these latter days, in a manner so 
 much like that in vogue with the " old chaps " that it 
 is a wonder that so many of them have ceased from 
 labor without ever having been told that they had 
 " monkeyed " steel. Well, if the devil has only got 
 those smiths who hammered cold steel, there are not 
 many smiths in his ranks yet. Heating steel as hot 
 as it will bear and working it while hot, with injunc- 
 tions not to try to draw cold steel, never to upset, may 
 be construed to mean : hot as is best for steel, no 
 hotter ; not cold, but continue hammering till the 
 grain of the steel is well closed up and finer for ham- 
 mering at a low heat than it could possibly be made 
 if the hammering was all done while the steel was 
 hotter. It don't seem that everybody does write in 
 the papers against heating steel too hot, and nobody 
 can come to the conclusion that half the trouble is 
 caused by too little heat, if his experience and oppor- 
 tunities for observation have been the same as mine. 
 
 What a difference it makes where a chap, old or 
 young, stands to look at a thing. But I am off the 
 track. Upsetting steel is the question. The screw 
 blanks which were headed in the upset dies were 
 threaded with rotary cutters. These cutters may be 
 described as a section of a worm gear, the shape of 
 tooth being that of the space between threads on a 
 
28 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 wood screw, and the cutter having a rotary motion 
 in keeping with the rotary motion of the screw and 
 with its own longitudinal motion as it traversed the 
 length of the screw which it cut. The best of steel, 
 according to our best judgment, was used for these 
 cutters, but running through many of the best 
 brands, from " Jessup's" to " Hobson's Choice Extra 
 Best," these cutters did not stand as it seemed they 
 ought to do. I was anxious to try a high grade of 
 a certain brand, of which I could get none of the 
 right size till it could be imported (this was in the 
 days of the old chaps — grandfathers). I had some 
 one-half of an inch or five-eighths of an inch round; 
 the cutters were to finish round, over three-fourths 
 of an inch diameter. I could not wait, so I made 
 some cutters by upsetting the steel which I had. 
 These cutters stood to do five times the work of the 
 cutters I had been using; and, willing to " let well 
 enough alone," I continued using the same size of 
 steel and upsetting. 
 
 I once had for my job the lathe work on the hook 
 for the Wheeler & Wilson sewingf machine. As it 
 came to me it was nothing more nor less than a 
 round-headed steel bolt, made in just the same way 
 that a blacksmith would make any solid headbolt, by 
 drawing a body to pass through the heading tool 
 and upsetting the head. After this lapse of time — 
 thirty years — I can hardly be expected to remember 
 the character of each particular hook, but I do not 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 29 
 
 remember that one of them was unsound as a result 
 of upsetting. If steel gets too much work in one 
 part and not enough in another, in any direction, 
 hot or cold, it is likely to get broken up. Upsetting 
 need not take all the blame. 
 
 H ow much difference in fracture does anyone sup- 
 pose will be found between breaking a bar of steel 
 crosswise and breaking a piece of the same length 
 of the width of the bar the other way of the grain } 
 Cut two pieces of steel, each two inches long, from a 
 two-inch square bar and draw one of them down to 
 one inch square, or eight inches long in the direction 
 of the length ; draw the other piece to the same size 
 and length by upsetting at every other blow, or 
 drawing crosswise. Who believes that the tool made 
 from this last piece will be inferior to the one made 
 the right way of the grain ? Some bars of steel, and 
 steel for some uses, can be improved by the work 
 which they can get on a smith's anvil. Some bars of 
 steel, and steel for some uses, will be injured by the 
 same treatment. When it is necessary or desirable 
 to use the center of a bar of steel, and it is found to 
 be in a coarse condition by reason of having been 
 brought to shape and size by blows disproportioned 
 to its cross-section, there is, perhaps, no better way 
 of improving the grain at and near the center of the 
 bar than to upset, and alternate the upsetting with 
 work from the outside of the bar. 
 
 Upsetting is not a cheap, easy or desirable thing to 
 
30 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 do, and is not likely to be resorted to often except 
 when necessity compels ; but I see no use in making 
 a bugbear out of it, when, if properly done, there is 
 no harm in it, and in some cases actual good is done 
 by it. It does not at least break up the center of the 
 bar, as blows at right angles with its axis often do ; 
 and, after seeing, as I have, thousands of good cut- 
 ters made by upsetting, for uses requiring the utmost 
 soundness and best condition of steel, I do not like 
 to see the process tabooed without saying a word in 
 its favor. — S. W. Goodyear, in The American Ma- 
 chinist. 
 
 Heating Steel in the Blacksmith's Fire. 
 
 In heating steel, two faults are especially to be 
 guarded against. First, over-heating ; secondly, un- 
 equal heating of the parts to be operated on 
 (whether by forging or tempering). Referring to 
 the first, many blacksmiths do not recognize that 
 steel is burned unless it falls to pieces under the 
 hammer blows, whereas that condition is only an ad- 
 vanced stage of the condition designated as burnt. 
 This is the secret of their partial failure, or, that is 
 to say, of the inferiority of their work. Others recog- 
 nize that from the time a piece of steel is overheated, 
 to its arrival at the stage commonly recognized as 
 burnt, a constant deterioration is taking place. 
 
 In the practice of some, this excessive heating 
 may be carried to so small a degree as not to be di§- 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 31 
 
 cernible, except the tool be placed in the hands of 
 an operator whose superior knowledge or skill en- 
 ables him to put it to a maximum of duty, less skill- 
 ful manipulators being satisfied with a less amount 
 of duty. 
 
 But in the case of stone-cutting tools especially, 
 and of iron cutting tools when placed in the hands 
 of very rapid and expert workmen, the least over- 
 heating of the tool will diminish its cutting value as 
 well as its endurance. A piece of steel that is burnt 
 sufficiently to break under the forging hammer, or 
 to be as weak as cast iron, will show, on fracture, a 
 coarse, sparkling, granulated structure, and this is 
 the test by which working mechanics, generally, 
 judge whether steel is burned or not. But it is 
 totally inadequate as a test to determine whether 
 the steel has not suffered to some extent from over- 
 heating. Indeed, although the grain becomes granu- 
 lated and coarse in proportion as it is overheated, 
 yet it may be so little overheated as to make no 
 visible difference in the grain of the fracture, although 
 very plainly perceptible in the working of the tool, if 
 placed in the hands of a thoroughly good workman. 
 
 When the results obtained are inferior, it is usual 
 to place the blame on the steel, but in the case of 
 well-known brands of steel, the fault lies, in ninety- 
 nine cases in a hundred, in over-heating, either for 
 the forging or for the tempering. 
 
 In determining from the duty required of it, 
 
3^ 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 whether a tool comes up to the highest standard of 
 excellence, the best practice must be taken as that 
 standard. Thus, if it is a metal cutting tool, as, say, 
 a lathe tool, let the depth of cut be that which will 
 reduce, at one cut, say, a four-inch wrought-iron 
 shaft down to inch diameter, the lathe making, 
 say, 16 revolutions, while the tool travels an inch, 
 and making from 25 to 30 revolutions per minute. 
 Under these conditions, which are vastly in excess of 
 the duty usually assigned in books to lathe tools, the 
 tool should carry the cut at least four feet along the 
 shaft without requiring grinding. 
 
 If the tool is for stone work, let it be tested by 
 the most expert and expeditious workman. These 
 instructions are necessary because of the great dif- 
 ference in the quantity of the work turned out in the 
 usual way and that turned out by very expert work- 
 men. 
 
 At what particular degree of temperature steel 
 begins to suffer from overheating cannot be defined, 
 because it varies with the quality of the steel. The 
 proper degree of heat sufficient to render the steel 
 soft enough to forge properly and not deteriorate in 
 the fire is usually given as a cherry red, but this is 
 entirely too vague for entirely successful manipula- 
 tion, and, in practice, covers a wide range of tem- 
 perature. The formation of scale is a much better 
 test, for when the scales form and fall off of them- 
 selves, the steel, in fine grades of cast steel, is over- 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 33 
 
 heated, and has suffered to some extent, though the 
 common grades of spring or machine steel may per- 
 mit sufficient heat^ to have the scale fall off without 
 the steel being worked. As a rule, the heat for 
 tempering should be less than that for forging, and 
 should not exceed a blood red. There are special 
 kinds of steel, however, as, for example, chrome 
 steel, which require peculiar heating, and in using 
 them strict attention should be paid to all instruc- 
 tions given by the manufacturers. 
 
 Steel should be heated for forging as quickly as 
 compatible with securing an even degree of heat all 
 through the part to be forged, and heated as little 
 as possible elsewhere. If this is not done the edges 
 or thin parts become heated first, and the forging 
 blows unduly stretch the hottest parts, while the 
 cooler parts refuse to compress ; hence a sort of tear- 
 ing action takes place, instead of the metal moving 
 or stretching uniformly. 
 
 The steel should be turned over and over in the 
 fire, and taken frequently from the fire, not only to 
 guard against overheating, but because it will cool the 
 edges and tend to keep the heat uniform. 
 
 The fire may be given a full blast until the steel 
 begins to assume redness at the edges or in 
 the thin parts, when the blast must be reduced. 
 If the thin part is heating too rapidly it may 
 be pushed through the fire into the cooler coals 
 or taken out and cooled in the air or in water, 
 
34 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 but this latter should be avoided as much as 
 possible. 
 
 When the steel is properly heated, it should be 
 forged as quickly as possible. Every second of time 
 is of the utmost importance. 
 
 There must be no hesitation or examining while 
 the steel is red-hot, nor should it be hammered after 
 it has lost its redness. There is, it is true, a common 
 impression that by lightly hammering steel while 
 black-hot it becomes impacted, but this only serves 
 to make the steel more brittle, without increasing its 
 hardness when hardened. 
 
 If the tool has a narrow edge, as in the case of a 
 mill pick or a chisel, the first hammer blows should 
 be given on those edges, forging them down at first 
 narrower than required, because forging the flat 
 sides will spread the edges out again. These edges 
 should never be forged at a low heat ; indeed, not 
 at the lowest degree of red heat, or the steel at the 
 outer edge is liable to become partly crushed. 
 
 What is known as jumping or upsetting — that is, 
 forging the steel endways of the grain should be 
 avoided, because it damages the steel. 
 
 As the steel loses its temperature, the blows should 
 be delivered lighter, especially upon the edges of 
 the steel. 
 
 The hammer blows for drawing out should have 
 a slight lateral motion in the direction in which the 
 steel is to be drawn, so that the hammer face, while 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 35 
 
 meeting the work surface, fair and level, shall also 
 draw the metal in the lateral direction in which the 
 face of the hammer is moving at the moment of im- 
 pact. — By Joshua Rose, M.E. 
 
 Testing hon and Steel. 
 
 The English admiralty and " Lloyds'" surveyor's 
 tests for iron and steel are as follows : 
 
 Two strips are to be taken from each thickness of 
 plate used for the internal parts of a boiler. One- 
 half of these strips are to be bent cold over a bar, 
 
 Fig. 3_Clamping in a Steam Hammer for the Purpose of 
 Bending. 
 
 the diameter of which is equal to twice the thickness 
 of the plate. The other half of the strips are to be 
 heated to a cherry red and cooled in water, and, 
 when cold, bent over a bar with a diameter equal to 
 three times the thickness of the plate— the angle to 
 
36 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 which they bend without fracture to be noted by the 
 surveyor. Lloyds' circular on steel tests states that 
 strips cut from the plate or beam are to be heated 
 to a low cherry red, and cooled in water at 82^ 
 Fah. The pieces thus treated must stand bending 
 double to a curve equal to not more than three times 
 the thickness of the plate tested. This is pretty se- 
 
 Fig. 4.— Bending under a Steam Hammer over a Hollow Anvil and by 
 means of a Round Bar. 
 
 vere treatment, and a plate containing a high 
 enough percentage of carbon to cause any tempering 
 is very unlikely to successfully stand the ordeal. 
 Lloyds' test is a copy of the Admiralty test, and in 
 the Admiralty circular it is stated that the strips are 
 to be one and a half inches wide, cut in a planing 
 machine with the sharp edges taken off. One and 
 a half inches will generally be found a convenient 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 37 
 
 width for the samples, and the length may be from 
 six to ten inches, according to the thickness of the 
 plate. If possible, the strips, and indeed all speci- 
 riens for any kind of experimenting, should be 
 planed from the plates, instead of being sheared or 
 punched off. When, however, it is necessary to 
 shear or punch, the pieces should be cut large and 
 
 Fig, 5_Bending Still Further by means of a Steam Hammer. 
 
 dressed down to the desired size, so as to remove 
 the injured edges. Strips with rounded edges will 
 bend further without breaking than similar strips with 
 sharp edges, the round edges preventing the appear- 
 ance of the small initial cracks which generally ex- 
 hibit themse'ves when bars with sharp edges are bent 
 cold through any considerable angle. In a homo- 
 g-eneous material like steel these initial cracks are 
 
38 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 very apt to extend and cause sudden fracture, hence 
 the advantage of sHghtly rounding the corners of 
 bending specimens. 
 
 In heating the sample for tempering it is better 
 to use a plate or bar furnace than a smith's fire, and 
 care should be taken to prevent unequal heating or 
 burning. Any number of pieces may be placed to- 
 gether in a suitable furnace, and when at a proper 
 
 Fig. 6— A Simple Contrivance by which a Common Punching Machine 
 may be converted into a Testing Apparatus. 
 
 heat plunged into a vessel containing water at the 
 required temperature. When quite cold the speci- 
 mens may be bent at the steam-hammer, or other- 
 wise, and the results noted. The operation of bend- 
 ing may be performed in many different ways ; per- 
 haps the best plan, in the absence of any special 
 apparatus for the purpose, is to employ the ordinary 
 smithy steam-hammer. About half the length of the 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 39 
 
 specimen is placed upon the anvil, and the hammer- 
 head pressed firmly down upon it, as in Fig. 3. 
 The exposed half may then be bent down by repeat- 
 ed blows from a fore-hammer, and if this is done 
 with an ordinary amount of care it is quite possible 
 to avoid producing a sharp corner. An improve- 
 ment upon this is to place a cress on the anvil, as 
 shown at Fig. 4. The sample is laid upon the cress, 
 and a round bar, of a diameter to produce the re- 
 quired curve, is pressed down upon it by the ham- 
 mer-head. The further bending of the pieces thus 
 treated is accomplished by placing them endwise 
 upon the anvil-block, as shown in Fig. 5. If the 
 hammer is heavy enough to do it, the samples 
 should be closed down by simple pressure, without 
 any striking. Fig. 6 is a sketch of a simple con- 
 trivance, by means of which a common punching 
 machine may be converted temporarily into an 
 efficient test-bending apparatus. The punch and 
 bolster are removed, and the stepped cast-iron block, 
 A, fixed in place of the bolster. When a sample is 
 placed endwise upon one of the lower steps of the 
 block A, the descending stroke of the machine will 
 bend the specimen sufficiently to allow of its being 
 advanced to the next higher step, while the machine 
 is at the top of its stroke. The next descent will effect 
 still further bending, and so on till the desired curv- 
 ature is attained. It would seem an easy matter, 
 and well worth attention, to design some form of 
 
40 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 machine specially for making bending experiments; 
 but with the exception of a small hydraulic machine, 
 the use of which has, I believe, been abandoned on 
 account of its slowness, nothing of the kind has 
 come under the writer's notice. 
 
 The shape of a sample after it has been bent to 
 pass Lloyds' or the Admiralty test is shown at Fig. 
 7. While being bent the external surface becomes 
 greatly elongated, especially at and about the point 
 A, where the extension is as much even as fifty per 
 
 Pig. 7_Shape of a Sample after being Bent to pass the Admiralty Test. 
 
 cent. This extreme elongation corresponds to the 
 breaking elongation of tensile sample, and can only 
 take place with a very ductile material. While the 
 stretching is going on at the external surface, the 
 interior surface at B is being compressed, and the 
 two strains extend into pieces till they meet in a 
 neutral line, which will be nearer B than A with a 
 soft specimen. When a sample breaks the differ- 
 ence between the portions of the fracture which 
 have been subject to tensile and compressive strains 
 can easily be seen. Fig. 8 shows a pi,ece of plate 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 olded close together ; and this can generally be 
 done with mild steel plates, when the thickness does 
 not exceed half an inch. 
 
 Common iron plate will not, of course, stand any- 
 thing like the foregoing treatment. Lloyds' test 
 
 Fig. 8— A Piece of Plate Folded Close Together. 
 
 for iron mast-slates % inch thick, requires the plates 
 to bend cold through an angle of 30'' with the grain, 
 and S"" across the grain ; the plates to be bent over 
 a slab, the corner of which should be rounded with 
 radius of ^ inch. 
 
 The Treatment of Steels. 
 
 I think it possible that some ideas of mine on the 
 subject of the treatment of steel may be of interest, 
 but I do not make these remarks for the purpose of 
 attacking any opinions that have been advanced on 
 this matter by others. 
 
 My purpose is simply to call attention to some 
 important facts which appear to have been unknown 
 or overlooked by the advocates of certain methods 
 of treating steel. 
 
 First, let me say that I have no faith in the idea 
 
42 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 that the operator can be guided correctly by color in 
 the tempering or hardening of steel. If the word 
 steels is used instead of steel, and if the teacher in 
 the mysteries of hardening and tempering is thor- 
 oughly familiar with the character of each particular 
 steel— and their name is legion, with the exact heat 
 at which each would harden to the best advantage, 
 and the precise color at which the temper should be 
 drawn — this would not be enough to justify him in 
 laying down the color or any other specific rule. He 
 should also be able to make millions of pupils see a 
 color exactly alike, use the same kind of fuel, work 
 in the same light and remember the precise heat 
 and color necessary for each particular steel. Then, 
 and not till then, he may speak of specific rules. 
 
 Is it asked what can be done if no specific method 
 will apply ? The reply is, that with so great a va- 
 riety of steels and such a variety of grades of the 
 same steels, with such a variety of treatments re- 
 quired for pieces of different sizes of precisely the 
 same steel, we must look for successful hardening 
 and tempering to the intelligence and powers of ob- 
 servation and comparison to be found among those 
 who do this most important part of tool-making. 
 
 These rules will, however, apply in every case. 
 Try to learn the lowest heat at which each partic- 
 ular steel will harden sufficiently to do the work for 
 which it is intended, and never exceed that heat. 
 Harden at a heat which calls for no drawing down 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 43 
 
 to a blue to remove brittleness. Hardened at the 
 proper heat, steel is stronger without drawing the 
 temper than it is before hardening. Whenever hard- 
 ened steel snaps off like glass at a little tap, and 
 shows a grain as coarse, or coarser than it showed 
 before hardening, don't say " It is too hard," but say 
 "It was too hot." Steel is hardened by heating to 
 the proper heat and cooling suddenly. Good results 
 can never be obtained by heating steel too hot for 
 sudden cooling, and then cooling in some mixture 
 or compound which will cool the overheated steel 
 more gradually. Overheating steel does mischief 
 which cooling gradually only partially removes. 
 Many a man who hardens in some mixture or com- 
 pound to prevent cracks or distortion, may learn 
 that at a lower heat he may use a bath of cold water 
 with equal safety and better results.— S. W. G. 
 
 Hints About the Treatment of Steel. 
 
 A practical worker in steel gives the following 
 hints in reference to the treatment of tool steel. 
 
 He says: "Bosses of machine and other shops 
 where considerable steel is used would be astonished 
 could they see the amount of loss to them in broken 
 taps, dies, reamers, drills and other tools accumulat- 
 ed in one year. I do not mean to say that tools 
 can be made and hardened that will not break, but I 
 do say fully one-third, especially taps, are broken by 
 being improperly tempered. * * * Thousands of 
 
44 
 
 BLACKSMITIIING. 
 
 dollars are lost in waste of steel and loss of time by 
 men who try to do what they have never learned. 
 
 " First of all, never heat steel in any fire, except 
 a charcoal fire, or a lead bath, which gives it a uni- 
 form heat (I mean steel tools of any kind). Rain- 
 water is the best water for hardenincr, as it contains 
 less lime than either well or river water. Water 
 should never be very cold for hardening tools, as the 
 sudden contraction of the steel will cause it to crack, 
 more especially in cutting dies, where there are 
 sharp corners. 
 
 o insure thorough hardness, salt should be 
 added to the water until the same becomes quite 
 brackish. The salt will cause the water to take hold 
 of the steel and cool it off gradually. I find rock or 
 fish salt to be the best, though table salt will answer. 
 The salt is also beneficial to the carbon in steel. 
 
 " For removing scale from steel when put into wa- 
 ter, ivory black should be used, putting it on the 
 steel while it is heating, and letting it remain till the 
 steel goes into the water. 
 
 " In tempering taps, reamers, twist drills and oth- 
 er like tools, great care should be taken to put them 
 in the water in a perpendicular line^ and slowly, not 
 allowing them to remain stationary in the water, as 
 there is danger of there being a water crack at the 
 water line, 
 
 " A good way to draw the temper is to heat a col- 
 lar, or any suitable iron with a hole in the center, 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 45 
 
 and draw the tool backward and forward through it 
 until the right temper is obtained, which will be 
 uniform." 
 
 On the Working of Steel. 
 
 Allow me to express a few thoughts in regard to 
 the degree of heat steel can be worked for edge 
 tools. And in doing so I shall no doubt differ with 
 many ; but what of that ? If we all had one way of 
 doing work what would be the use of giving ''our 
 method'' for doing anything ? Some tell us that steel 
 should never be heated above a cherry-red, others 
 say it should not be hot enough to scale, and many 
 suppose if heated to a white heat the steel is burnt 
 and utterly worthless. Now if all this be true, how 
 in the world could an edge tool ever be made, and 
 of what practical use would they be when they ivere 
 made ? 
 
 Can steel be put into an axe or any other tool 
 without heating the steel above a cherry-red heat? 
 If so, I would like to have some one tell me how, as 
 I have never learned that part of the trade. I do not 
 believe that iron or steel can be welded at a cherry 
 heat. 
 
 My experience in the working of steel during the 
 past fifteen years has been mostly confined to the axe 
 business. I have made and repaired during this time, 
 several hundreds of axes, and the work has given 
 unparalleled satisfaction. My experience in the mat- 
 
46 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 ter has convinced me that the degree of heat steel 
 should be worked depends very much upon circum- 
 stances. For instance, if I am going to fix over an 
 axe, and wish to reduce the steel to one-half or three- 
 fourths of its present thickness, I have no fears of 
 any bad results if the steel is brought to a white 
 heat to commence with. But when nearly to the 
 required thickness, I am careful not to heat above 
 a cherry-red. And when the last or finishing touch 
 is given by the hammer it is at a low heat, when but 
 a faint red is discernible. I never finish forging an 
 edge tool of any kind at a cherry-red heat. The fin- 
 ishing should be done at as low a heat as to refine 
 the steel, and leave it bright and glossy. 
 
 In heating to temper, the greatest care should be 
 observed that an even cherry wood heat is obtained. 
 I do not deny that injury may occur by overheating. 
 This every smiih knows to be true; but I do claim 
 that it can be remedied, and the fine grain of the 
 steel restored when the nature of the work will 
 admit of a suitable amount of forging. When it 
 will not, I never heat above a cherry-red. — By W. 
 H. B. 
 
 Hardening Steel. 
 
 On the subject of the hardening of steel I will say 
 that salt water is not more liable to crack steel in the 
 hardening process than is freshwater. In fact, clear 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 47 
 
 and pure water is the best thing that can be used in 
 making steel hard. 
 
 The best mode of anneahng heavy blocks of cruci- 
 ble cast-steel is to heat the block to a uniform red 
 heat, and as soon asyeu have obtained this heat place 
 the steel in a cast-iron or sheet-iron box, made as 
 shown in Fig. 9, of the accompanying illustrations. 
 This box is filled with common lime and wood ashes, 
 equal parts of each. In placing the steel in the box 
 
 Fig. 9— Showing the Box used in Hardening Steel by the Method of 
 "H. R. H." 
 
 try to keep about 4 or 5 inches of lime below the 
 steel, then put 4 or 5 inches on top of the steel, close 
 up the box and let it remain there to cool off slowly, 
 which will require from 24 to 48 hours. Generally 
 crucible cast-steel will anneal best at a low red heat, 
 if treated as described. 
 
 The only secrets in annealing steel, that I know of, 
 are to exclude air from the steel as much as possible, 
 while it is annealing, and to avoid overheating. 
 
48 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 For hardening drop hammer dies, I would suggest 
 the use of the water tub, shown in Fig. lo. In the 
 illustration, A is the water supply pipe, which, as 
 shown by the dotted lines, runs down to the bottom 
 of the tub and over to its center, where the pipe is 
 bent up, as shown at D. At x, x, x, x there are four 
 holes, which represent waste pipes that carry off all 
 the water that comes above their level. This water 
 passes on down through to the main waste pipe Oat 
 
 E. The cut-off shown is used when cleaning the tub 
 or box. 
 
 To harden a heavy die proceed as follows : Get 
 a uniform bright red heat on the steel, then place it 
 in the water tub with the face of the die in the 
 water, the steel being supported in the tub by the 
 two hangers, F F, as shown in Fig. lo. C indicates 
 the water's edge and depth, and shows the position 
 of the die in the water. Before placing the die on 
 
 Fig. lo — Showing the Water Tub. 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 49 
 
 the hangers be sure to have the two hangers in 
 their proper places, have the water in the supply 
 pipe, A, turned on with full force, and be sure that the 
 die is placed directly over the middle of the supply 
 pipe at D. We will say the die B, in Fig. lo, is 
 10x5x6 inches; a bulk of steel like this will heat 
 much water, and therefore while the supply pipe 
 furnishes cold water, the waste pipes, x, x, x, x, 
 carry off all the hot or warm water as fast as the steel 
 heats it. In Fig. 1 1 I give a side view of the die on the 
 hanger, 7^, F, showing the ends that hook over the 
 
 F 
 
 -X 
 
 Fig. 1 1 — Side View of the Die. 
 
 sides of the tub. The cut also shows how the die 
 is placed at an angle in the water. B indicates 
 the portion of the die out of the water line, and 
 A represents the part in the water. It is not 
 necessary to keep the dies moving during the hard- 
 ening process, but keep the water moving, and there 
 will be no trouble. 
 
 The best way to harden trimming dies is to always 
 examine thoroughly the die before you dip it, and 
 turn it while dipping so that all the thick or heavy 
 parts enter the water first. 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 50 
 
 The best mode of hardening punches is to harden 
 them first in cold water, and then draw the temper 
 
 Fig. 12 — The Furnace for Heating and Drawing Temper. 
 
 to suit the work they are intended for. While the 
 die is hanging in the tub, as in Fig. 10, it would 
 do no harm to utilize a tin cup in pouring water on 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 51 
 
 the bottom of the die, which is out of the water. I 
 have seen hundreds of blocks of steel hardened this 
 way with the best of success. I never have the tem- 
 per drawn for drop hammer dies. The harder you 
 can get them the better. 
 
 In Fig. 12 I show a furnace for heating and 
 drawing temper. This furnace is 3 feet 6 inches 
 wide and 4 feet 4 inches long. At it is 2 
 feet 6 inches from the ground to the top of the 
 cast-iron plate B. From plate B to the under side 
 
 Fig. 13— Showing the Grate-Box, Blast- Pipe and Grate. 
 
 of the top, F, it is 16 inches in height. A is the grate, 
 D is the ash-pan, C is the door, and X is the 
 damper. Hard coke is the best fuel I know of 
 for this furnace except charcoal. In using the coke 
 start the fire, close the door and get the coke red, 
 
52 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 then put in the steel that is to be annealed or 
 hardened. In heating you can gain much by reg- 
 ulating the damper X. Fig. 13 shows the grate 
 box used in the furnace. At D, D, the box has 
 two hooks, which hold up the box door. This door 
 is fastened to the other side of the box with two 
 hinges. At ^ is a blast pipe hole to which the 
 point of pipe B is bolted. C is part of the grate 
 used. Three pieces of this kind are used to make 
 the full grate. This is done to allow the use of 
 
 Fig. 14— The Plate for Holding the Grate-Box. 
 
 two blank grates and one open grate when a small 
 fire is desired, or you can use two open grates 
 and one blank, or all three may be open grates, 
 just as your work requires. Fig. 14 shows the plate 
 in which the grate box is hung when in use. This 
 plate is bolted to two iron bars in the furnace, and 
 on this place the brick work is laid. The chimney 
 can be used on the side, end or middle. I prefer 
 it in the center, as shown in the illustration. The 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 53 
 
 plate, B, of the furnace is cast-iron i 1-4 inches 
 thick, 10 inches wide, and the length is the same 
 as the width of the furnace. The best steel I can 
 get for drop and trimming dies is made at the 
 Crescent Steel Works, Pittsburgh, Pa. I think 
 the illustrations fully explain themselves without 
 any further description — By H. R. H. 
 
 To Select Good Tool Steel. 
 
 One way is to break a bar of steel and observe the 
 grain, which should be fine and present a silvery look, 
 with sometimes an exfoliated appearance. The best 
 test of steel is to make a cold chisel from the bar to 
 be tested, and, when carefully tempered, try it upon 
 wrought iron, a piece of old wagon-tire, for instance. 
 The blows given will pretty correctly tell its tenacity 
 and capability of holding temper. If it proves tough 
 and serviceable take this temper as a guide, and 
 temper your steel in like manner. Inferior steel is 
 easily broken, and the fracture presents a dull, even 
 appearance, which might be appropriately termed a 
 lifeless \ooV.— By W. B. H. 
 
 Different Kinds of Steel. 
 
 Blister steel is made by causing the carbon of char- 
 coal to penetrate iron in a heated state. German 
 steel is blister steel rolled down into bars. Sheet 
 
54 
 
 BLACKSMITHING, 
 
 Steel is made by hammering blister steel. Double 
 shear steel is made by cutting up blister steel and 
 putting it together and hammering again. Crucible 
 steel is made by melting in a pot blister steel and 
 wrought iron or unwrought iron and charcoal and 
 scrap. Bessemer steel is made by blowing air through 
 cast-iron, burning out the silicon and carbon. Open 
 hearth steel is made by melting pig-iron and mixing 
 wrought iron or scrap steel, or iron ore to reduce the 
 silicon and carbon. 
 
 Restoring Burnt Steel. 
 
 To restore the original qualities to steel which has 
 been burnt in the forge, plunge the metal at red heat 
 into a mixture of two parts of pitch, two parts of 
 train oil, one part of tallow, and a small quantity of 
 common salt. Repeat the operation two or three 
 times. Excellent results have frequently been so 
 obtained. 
 
 Cold Hammering Iron. 
 To the statement by a writer on this subject that 
 " it either is, or ought to be known to all practical 
 men that hammering a piece of the best and tough- 
 est iron in the process of forging until it ceases to 
 be red hot, will remove and destroy its tenacity so 
 as to render it capable of being broken with the 
 slightest blow," practical men must say, " depends." 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 55 
 
 It depends upon the character of the iron, and upon 
 how the hammering is done. As between hot work- 
 ing, and the finishing blows " of cold hammering," 
 e., hammering at black heat — not cold — there are 
 two reasons why the effect so strongly deprecated 
 is produced. 
 
 First, the iron is less yielding in this semi-cold 
 state and so would not be affected clear through, 
 or as nearly through, by the same blows it received 
 when hot. 
 
 Second, the blows during the cold hammering are 
 light compared with what were used when the heat 
 was greater. Thus, if the best condition of the mass 
 is considered, we have the heaviest blows when least 
 force is needed, and the lightest blows when to move 
 the mass the heaviest are needed, and so, while the 
 "requisite finish and fine surface " result from the 
 cold hammering there is an evil effect produced, not 
 from the hammering per se, but, from the fact that 
 only the surface being affected to any considerable 
 extent, the desirable homogeniety of condition is de- 
 stroyed and unequal strains are set up which can only 
 be relieved by annealing. 
 
 Quoting again, " By subjecting wrought-iron to 
 the most violent hammering or compression at a low 
 temperature, and then submitting the iron work so 
 treated to the simple process of heating red hot and 
 slow cooling, we enhance its tenacity, or shock sus- 
 taining qualities at least twenty times." 
 
56 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 Now, without questioning the accuracy of this 
 statement, is it not fair to ask if cold working is done 
 in a way to affect the entire mass acted upon clear 
 through, putting all parts as nearly as possible in the 
 same condition would there not greater " tenacity 
 or shock-sustaining qualities" without subsequent 
 annealing ? 
 
 In cold working of both wrought iron and steel, 
 the writer has had to do with, and opportunity for 
 observing the effect of reduction as great as trom 25 
 per cent, to 75 per cent, often from drawn wire, not 
 annealed after drawing, and without heating or an- 
 nealing after such cold working, millions of these 
 pieces have been bent, flattened, riveted and other- 
 wise treated in a way to test their tenacity, without 
 showing any sign of having hajd the " tenacity re- 
 moved or destroyed," but on the contrary greatly in- 
 creased, while actual tests for tensile, torsional, or 
 transverse strength showed great increase in these 
 directions, but which increase would, in a great 
 measure, be lost by " heating red hot and slow cool- 
 ing." If, in the article under consideration, the term 
 cold-hammering had been used only, this would not 
 have been written, but, as the terms " swaging" and 
 "compression" were used, the door was opened. 
 What is the difference ? It is immense in its effect, 
 as between simple hammering and swaging, be- 
 tween compression — squeezing — blows and hammer- 
 ing. 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 57 
 
 Hammering implies working between two plain 
 faces which allows some parts of the metal acted 
 upon to escape from the compressive effect of the 
 blows more easily than other parts, hence unequal 
 conditions result. Swaging implies the use of dies, 
 which hold all parts of the metal acted upon up to 
 the work they are to receive, and so produce an 
 equable condition all through the mass. Again, com- 
 pression, as 'against blows, produces effects peculiar 
 to itself in that the work takes place in a gradual, 
 gentle manner, rather than through shock and vio- 
 lence. Just why there is so marked a difference, 
 whether it is because the parts composing the mass 
 having more time are able to arrange themselves 
 differently from what they do under the sudden effect 
 of blows, whether the less friction of changing parts 
 and less consequent heat, or any other of many 
 guessed at causes lie back of what strikes the aver- 
 age mechanic as a phenomena, a paradox, will prob- 
 ably remain an open question for some time to come. 
 That compressive swaging, properly done, however, 
 will increase tenacity and strength tested in any way 
 we choose, by bending, twisting, pulling, etc., is an 
 unquestionable fact. 
 
 Pieces of cast-steel wire of high carbon percent- 
 age, suitable for drills, have been reduced by cold 
 swaging sufficiently to become elongated more than 
 700 per cent, and then tied in knots and drawn up 
 almost as tightly as would be possible in the case of 
 
58 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 a String. That this could be done when the fact is 
 taken into consideration that the wire had been cold- 
 worked — drawn since annealing — and was conse- 
 quently in that condition so deprecated in the article 
 under notice, the subsequent cold-working — swaging 
 — taking place without annealing or heating after the 
 drawing, and the knots being tied after the swaging 
 with no heating or annealing, should settle the ques- 
 tion, to some extent at least, whether cold-working 
 per se, is the destructive agent which some believe it 
 to be. — By S. W. Goodyear. 
 
CHAPTER II. 
 
 BOLT AND RIVET CLIPPERS. 
 
 A Bolt and Rivet Clipper. 
 
 Cutting off bolts and rivets with a cold chisel is 
 not very convenient in a shop where only one man is 
 working : for instance, a blacksmith shop in a small 
 town. Very good bolt and rivet clippers are now 
 manufactured, but many blacksmiths cannot afford 
 to pay eight or ten dollars for a bolt clipper, and so 
 they have some one to hold a hammer or bar on one 
 side of the bolt while the smith cuts from the other 
 
 A 
 
 Fig. 14— Showing how the Knife is made for Bolt and Rivet Clipper. 
 
 side with a dull chisel, and now and then hits his 
 hand, or the end of the bolt flies in his eye or in the 
 eye of the man that holds the bar. Then very often 
 the end of the bolt goes through a window, and be- 
 fore they get through with their job the smith is very 
 mad. 
 
 About three years ago I made a good and cheap 
 bolt clipper, which is shown in the accompanying il- 
 
6o 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 lustrations, Figs. 14 to 17. It is made as follows: 
 A piece of steel x i inch and 6 inches long is 
 welded to a ^-inch round rod 12 inches long, and 
 
 Fig. 1 5 - Showing the two Jaws together. 
 
 the end of the steel is turned up half an inch for a 
 nipper or knife, as at ^ in Fig. 14. In Fig. 15 the 
 
 Fig. 16 — The Purchase Lever. 
 
 two jaws or nippers are together. B, in Fig, 15, is a 
 spring used to raise one jaw when the tool is applied 
 
 Fig. 17 — Showing the Clipper completed. 
 
 to a rivet. The upper jaw works loosely in a slot 
 hole at C. A small hole is punched six inches from 
 the end for the spring. A nut is used to fasten the 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 6i 
 
 spring. In Fig. i6 the purchase lever is shown. 
 This is made of inch-square iron and 12 inches of 
 ^-round iron, or just as the lower handle is made. 
 A. ^-inch round hole is punched in one side at D, 
 
 Fig. 18 — Cut Nippers as made by " Steel Square. 
 
 as in Fig. 16. In Fig. 17 the clipper is shown as it 
 appears when put together and ready to be applied 
 to a bolt. 
 
62 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 Fig. 1 7 is a side view of the clipper. The jaws, F, 
 F, must be close to the piece W. When you press 
 down the lever the lower side of the head commences 
 to press down. This clipper can be made in half a 
 day and will answer for most jobs. — By E. H. Wehry. 
 
 Cut Nippers. 
 
 I send you a sketch, Fig. i8, of a pair of cut nip- 
 pers I invented. They are not patented, nor will 
 they be. Three-eighths-inch iron can be cut with them 
 with ease. 
 
 A A are steel cutters down to joints SS, and they 
 may be made of any shape to suit. At B there are 
 two links bolted to the cutter, one on each side. The 
 joint R 7? would be difficult to forge, so it is made of 
 malleable iron, and is bolted on the side of the handle 
 H. There are two of these made with a shoulder 
 on the inside. The right-hand part is bolted on the 
 edge of the other handle H, is the same thickness 
 as the handle and sets in between the other two, 
 being held by a bolt. A set screw, as shown, stops 
 the handles // at the right point. The handles 
 may be of any length desired. — By Steel Square. 
 
 Bolt Clipper. 
 
 I inclose sketches illustrating a bolt clipper which 
 may be made by any good blacksmith in four hours' 
 time. Fig. 19 represents the tool complete, while 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 63 
 
 the other sketches represent details of construction. 
 For the parts shown in Fig. 21 take a piece of spring 
 steel 2^^ inches wide by inch thick and flatten out 
 
 Fig. 19 — The Bolt Clipper complete. 
 
 about 2yi inches wide at B. That will leave the 
 part 3-16 of an inch thick. Punch holes as shown at 
 
 Fig. 20 — Portion of Bolt Clipper. Elevation, Sectional View and 
 Details of " D. H. E.'s " Bolt Clipper. 
 
 A and B. Shape a small piece of steel as indicated 
 by Cm the same cut and place it on the end. Take 
 
 Fig. 21 — Another part of Bolt Clipper. 
 
 a light heat and weld it fast in that position. That 
 will keep the end from pushing out. The square 
 hole marked O in Fig. 21 is made large enough to 
 
64 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 pass it over the nuts. The part shown in Fig. 20 is 
 made of cast-steel and sharpened in the parts shaded 
 as shown at H. The construction of the guard is 
 shown in Fig. 22. It is to be bent at the dotted 
 Hnes, giving it the shape indicated by Fig. 23. It is 
 then ready to clinch into the holes provided for it as 
 shown in A and B of Fig. 21. The bolt uniting the 
 two parts should be made of cast-steel 5-16 inch in 
 diameter. The entire length of the tool should be 
 15 inches. Made of these dimensions leverage 
 
 Fig. 22 — Shows how the Guard Fig. 23 — Shows Shape of 
 
 is Constructed. Guard. 
 
 enough will be afforded to clip bolts 3-16 to 5-16 
 
 inches in diameter. — By D. H. E. 
 
 A New Bolt Clipper. 
 
 I enclose a sketch, Fig. 24, of a bolt clipper which 
 is a handy tool and unlike any I have seen in other 
 shops. The handles are of wood, and are about two 
 feet long. The band or clamp prevents the twisting 
 of the knives to one side when they close on the bolt. 
 The plate shown in the sketch is duplicated on the 
 other side. This arrangement enables me to get a 
 leverage near the hinge or heel. 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 65 
 
 This tool can be used for bolts ranging in size from 
 the smallest up to half inch. — By R. D. C. 
 
 A Handy Bolt Cutter. 
 
 I enclose sketches of a bolt cutter of my own make, 
 which I will describe as well as I can. I think the 
 tool may be of some benefit to some of my brother 
 
 Fig. 24— A New Bolt Clipper as made by " R. D. C." 
 
 smiths. It saves labor and is easily made. To make 
 it I first take a bar of iron 7-8-inch square and cut 
 off two pieces, each two feet long, for the levers A 
 
 Fig. 25— A Handy Bolt Cutter. The Bow. 
 
 and B shown in the engravings, Figs. 25 and 26. In 
 making the lever A, I first square up the end where 
 the hole, G, is made. I then punch, six inches below 
 
66 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 the hole G, another hole, /, to receive the bow C. 
 The lever B is of the same length as A and has on 
 the upper end at 6^ a coupling made the same as a 
 joint on a buggy top brace. This coupling connects 
 the lever B and bow C. The hole in the coupling 
 
 GDP 
 
 B A 
 
 Fig. 26— The Bolt Cutter as completed. 
 
 and the hole shown at H, Fig. 27, are one inch apart 
 from center to center. I next take a piece of steel 
 ^-inch square to make the bow. I first stave it up 
 on one end to put the ear on it for the coupling 
 then I put an eye in it to fit in the long holes shown 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 67 
 
 at /, and bend it so that the "knife D will fit closely 
 against it when the two are put together. To forge 
 the knife I take a piece of ^-inch good cast-steel. I 
 dress up the knives, harden them and then rivet one 
 
 Fig. 27— Side View of Bolt Clipper made by " C. N. S." 
 
 on the lever A and the other on the bow C, using 
 two rivets in each one. The plates E, are made of 
 I 7-8-inch by 3-8-inch iron, the holes in them being 
 
 Fig. 28— Showing the Piece F, used in the Bolt Clipper. 
 
 four inches apart from center to center. The holes 
 are 3-8 inch. The plates are placed as indicated by 
 the lines in Fig. 26, and are held in position by steel 
 rivets inserted in the holes H and /. The set screw 
 
68 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 is used to prevent the edges of the knives from 
 striking together. The jaws must be open about 
 three-quarters of an inch when the levers are straight. 
 In this tool the cutting is done, not by pressing the 
 levers together but by pulling them apart. 
 
 I can cut with it all bolts from j^-inch down. — By 
 L. G. 
 
 Making a Bolt Clipper. 
 
 I have made a bolt clipper which, in my opinion, 
 is equal to any of the patent ones in the market. In 
 
 Fig. 29— Showing the Piece F Bent. 
 
 Fig. 27 of the illustration, A denotes the long handle 
 made of ^-square iron; B is the other piece, C is the 
 
 Fig. 30 — Showing one of the Pieces used for the Hinge. 
 
 double hinge, D D are the knives, E the purchase 
 lever, F the piece that holds the purchase lever in 
 
 Fig. 31— Showing how the Knives are Fastened to the Handle. 
 
 place. In Fig. 28 the piece F is shown ready to 
 bend, and in Fig. 29 it is shown bent. 6^ is a key 
 
BLACKSMITIIING. 
 
 69 
 
 for fastening the piece F on the piece E or the main 
 lever. It is also used to keep the knives apart. H, 
 in Fig. 27, is the spring used to open the jav^s. The 
 piece shown in Fig. 30 is one of those that form the 
 hinge, one goes on one side and one on the other, 
 being fastened together with two rivets. Fig. 31 
 shows how the knives are put on the handle. — By C. 
 N. S. 
 
 Tool for Cutting Rivets. 
 
 I send you sketches of a pair of cut-nippers, Figs. 
 32 and 33. They are adapted to cutting bolts and 
 rivets up to i^^-inch in diameter. The jaws do not 
 
 Fig. 32 — " O. F. F.'s " Rivet Cutter. 
 
 project, so as to cut long wire, and whatever is cut 
 must be inserted end-ways. When finished the tool 
 is 10 inches long, and weighs 14 ounces. [The por- 
 
70 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 tions represented in the engravings are full size, the 
 handles being broken at the points indicated, to save 
 space. The plate E is represented partially broken 
 away in Fig. 33, so as to show clearly the method of 
 construction. — Ed.] A is the fixed jaw or leg, 
 having a pivoted jaw, B. A lever, D, is piv- 
 oted to B, at C. Two plates, B, on each side of the 
 
 Fig. 33-Another View of " O. F. F.'s " Rivet Cutter. 
 
 jaws, are pivoted to A, at B, and to B>, at G/ D is 
 moved outwards, a rivet, at R, put in, and D is closed, 
 cutting off the rivet, the operation being obvious. 
 The plate, E, must be 1-3 of an inch thick, and riv- 
 eted to A and D, on both sides, with at least 3-16 
 rivets, as the strain is very great. If well made and 
 carefully used, one of these cut-nippers will last a 
 
elackSmithing. 
 
 71 
 
 long time. I have used one seven years, and it is in 
 good condition yet, though I have averaged to iron 
 fifty sleighs a year, and they have done all the cut- 
 ting, besides all my other work, where they could 
 be used.— i5y O. F. F. 
 
 Rivet Cutter. 
 
 I have a tool which will cut a rivet or bolt one-half 
 inch in diameter very easily. It is very handy and 
 useful in cutting points of bolts, in ironing wagons, 
 
 Yig, 34— Showing Rivet Cutter Closed. 
 
 buggies, etc. In my sketch, Fig. 34 represents the 
 tool nearly closed. The part marked A is one shear 
 or knife, which is a piece of steel (best) welded on 
 
 Fig. 3S-Sectional View of Rivet Cutter showing Edges of Shears 
 
 the iron frame or body, and beveled from the oppo- 
 site side so as to make an edge. The part marked 
 B, is the main or sliding shear, made of the best 
 steel. It also has a beveled edge the same as A. 
 
72 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 C is a plate, and there is one on each side so as to 
 hold the shear or knife, B, to its place. These plates 
 can be fastened on either with rivets or small bolts 
 as desired. D is the main frame or body of the tool, 
 which is iron. Fig. 35 is a top view with a portion 
 of the outer jaw removed, showing the points or edges 
 of shears or knives, A and B, and the method of 
 securing the plates referred to.- -By Cyrus G. 
 Little. 
 
 Tools for Making Rivets — Pipe Tongs. 
 I send you a sketch, Fig. 36, of a handy rivet-mak- 
 ing tool. The hole at A is just deep enough to make 
 
 Fig. 36— Rivet-making Tool. 
 
 the required length of rivet; the wire is cut off long 
 enough to make the body and head, and is riveted 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 73 
 
 with a button rivet set; the lower part of the tool is 
 bowed as you see and naturally holds the two jaws a 
 little open. The vise jaws grip at C C, the two flanges, 
 D, resting on top of the vise jaws: as the vise is 
 
 Fig. 37 Best form of Pipe Tongs. 
 
 opened or shut the jaws of the tool open and release 
 or close and grip the rivet. 
 
 I also send you a sketch, Fig. 37,' of, I think, the 
 best form of pipe tongs. The jaw B points to jaw A. 
 Moving^ in the direction of arm causes pipe C to be 
 very firmly gripped.— ^j/ " Southern Blacksmith." 
 
 A Tool for Making Rivets. 
 
 The accompanying illustration. Fig. 38, represents 
 a tool which is very convenient for making the rivets 
 that are used to fasten the brass on the plow share 
 and the bar, and also the frog when wooden stock 
 plows are made. The tool will make rivets of two 
 lengths, namely, i^-inch and i-inch. I used 3-8- 
 inch round Norway iron for rivets because it is the 
 only kind fit for that purpose. Rivets made of com- 
 mon iron will always break if they are put in hot. 
 
74 
 
 BLACKSMITHINC. 
 
 I make the tool as I would an ordinary heading 
 tool, but am careful to get the ends A B, high 
 enough where the holes are. The end A is for the 
 I ^-inch rivets and the other end is for the i-inch 
 rivets; A is made two inches high, and B is an inch 
 and a half high. The ends are laid with steel on the 
 tops, and I then take a 3-8-inch bit the size of the 
 round iron used and bore holes at C and D, so that 
 
 A 
 
 E_ c 
 
 B 
 
 "E F 
 Fig. 38— A Tool designed by " L. G." for making Rivets. 
 
 they lack but half an inch more to come through the 
 piece, and then bore through the rest of the way with 
 a 3- 1 6-inch bit at E and F. This is to facilitate the 
 driving out of the rivets after they are made. The 
 iron should be cut long enough to allow for a head. 
 After making the rivets I drive them out with a small 
 punch. If a little oil is used in the tool they will 
 come out easier. — By L, G. 
 
 Making a Bolt Clipper. 
 
 I have a bolt clipper that will cut easily bolts of 
 half an inch or smaller ones. It is made as follows : 
 
 I first make a pattern of tin. For the jaws, which 
 are marked A A in the accompanying illustration. 
 
BLACKSMITIIING. 75 
 
 Fig. 39, I used a piece of bar iron, 3-8 x 3 inches, cut- 
 ting off two pieces about 10 inches long, then form- 
 ing th em according to the pattern and welding on a 
 piece of steel for the cutting edge. The hole B is 
 made 5-8-inch in diameter. The holes C C and D 
 are ^-inch in diameter. The distance from the hole 
 /i to C C is 6 inches, from C C to it is i inches, 
 and from C to C is inches. The handles G G 
 are made of iron 5-8x11^ inches and are joined at D. 
 
 Fig. 39— Bolt Clipper made by " W. R." 
 
 The jaws, A A, are joined to the handles at C C. 
 The other parts of the handles, G G, are of wood, 
 about three feet long, with ferrules on the ends. The 
 total length of the handles, measuring from D, is 
 3^ feet. The washer, H, is 2 inches in diameter, 
 and is forged to a thin edge around the outside. I 
 put one on each side. The rivets should be -of 
 steel.— ^jK W. R. 
 
76 
 
 BLACliSMlTHING. 
 
 How to Make a Bolt and Rivet Cutter. 
 
 I have' made a bolt and rivet cutter that works 
 spendidly, and will tell how it is made. 
 
 Take a piece of square iron, twenty-four inches 
 long-, for the bottom piece. In the end weld a piece 
 of tool steel for a cutter This should be 3-4 inch 
 so as to have solid steel cutters. In the bottom 
 piece, seven inches from the end, punch a hole 
 with a flat punch and round down from above 
 the hole. 
 
 The other jaw is made from the same kind of iron 
 
 Fig. 41— Showing C. V. Marsh's Bolt and Rivet Cutter complete. 
 
 with steel welded on the end for cutter. The upper 
 handle can be made from round or square iron 
 whichever is handiest. The spring can be made from 
 any piece of old spring, and is put on with two small 
 rivets. The end piece can be made from 3-4-inch 
 stake iron. It is in one piece and bent so as to fit 
 around the lower jaw. Fig. 41 shows the cutter com- 
 plete and will give a good idea as to how it is made. 
 I think that some of the boys will find this cutter 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 77 
 
 very useful. It is powerful and will cut easily small 
 bolts and pieces of iron. It is also, as will be seen 
 by the engraving, simple in construction and not 
 difficult for any smith to make. — By C. V.. Marsh. 
 
CHAPTER III. 
 
 CHISELS. 
 
 The Chisel and Chisel-Shaped Tools. 
 
 The subject upon which I have been invited by 
 the Franklin Institute to speak this evening is that 
 of the chisel and chisel-shaped tools, and the object 
 of my remarks will be similar to that I had in view 
 in a former lecture, namely, to demonstrate, as far 
 as it is possible in a talk of this kind, that in skillful 
 handicraft the very foundation lies in a knowledge 
 that may be obtained altogether independent of any 
 actual use of the tool. 
 
 The first day I entered the machine-shop I was 
 given a hammer and a cold chisel wherewith to chip 
 the ends of some bolts level. I had looked forward 
 to my entry into the shop with a great deal of pleas- 
 ure, for my heart and mind were set upon becoming 
 a skillful workman. The idea of being able to cut 
 and shape metal to my will, and form it into the ma- 
 chines that were to save mankind the exercise of 
 mere^brute force, had such a charm for me that it 
 was the height of my ambition. An apprentice of 
 some two years' standing was to show me how to 
 use the chisel, which he did as follows : " You hold 
 
BLACK3MITHING. 
 
 79 
 
 the chisel so, and the hammer so, and then you chip 
 this way," and he cut off the end of the first bolt 
 very nicely and quickly. I tried to follow him, but 
 after the first blow, which by chance struck the chisel- 
 head sideways, I became aware that my hand was 
 
 n 
 
 Fig. 42— Showing a Flat Ciiisel. 
 
 dangerously near to the chisel-head. I realized this 
 more thoroughly at the second blow, for the ham- 
 mer fell upon my thumb, to the great amusement of 
 my neighbors. After that I could not be persuaded 
 to hold the chisel near the head unless I held the 
 
8o 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 hammer pretty close to its head, so that I could take 
 better aim. For two days I struggled on, left to 
 myself to find out by bungling along how to grind 
 the chisel, and all the other points that could have 
 been taught me in an hour. What was worse, I 
 
 Fig. 43— Showing Another Shape of Flat Chisel. Side and End Views. 
 
 became disheartened, for instead of finding all plain 
 sailing with nothing to do but to master the princi- 
 ples of tool using, feeling every day that I had made 
 some progress, I found myself floundering in the 
 dark, not understanding anything of what I was 
 doing, asking others to grind the chisels because I 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 8l 
 
 had no idea how to do it properly myself, and at the 
 end of the first month I should, but for the author- 
 ity of my parents, have tried some other business. 
 The machinist's trade seemed to be nothing but one- 
 half main strength, one-quarter stupidity, and the 
 
 Fig. 44— Broad Chisels. 
 
 Other quarter hand skill that every man had to work 
 out for himself, for nobody seemed able to help me. 
 Many a boy meets just this same experience, and 
 getting discouraged drifts about a month at this 
 trade, two months at that, until he finds himself at 
 
82 
 
 BLACKSMITIIING. 
 
 last without any trade at all, and very often in his 
 old age without the means of earning an honest 
 livelihood. Examples of this kind are, I believe, 
 within the personal knowledge of most of us, and 
 the fault is often attributed to the absence of an 
 apprenticeship system, but if we go deeper I am per- 
 suaded that it will appear that it is more in the want 
 of intelligent preparation for the workshop. 
 
 Parental authority, as I have said, saved me from 
 this misfortune, but since then I have, in the course 
 
 Fig. 45 — Correctly and Incorrectly Ground Chisels. 
 
 of years, mastered the principle involved in the use 
 of this cold chisel, and I can now draw you two pic- 
 tures, which I hope will not be uninteresting. Sup- 
 pose when I went to the shop doors to ask for em- 
 ployment the superintendent had said to me: 
 
 " Want to be a machinist, do you ? Well, why do 
 you think you are fitted for it; do you know anything 
 about it, or about tools? On what foundation have 
 ^ ou built the opinion that you will ever make a good 
 machinist ?'' 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 83 
 
 What could I then have answered except that I 
 thought so, hoped so, and meant to try my best. But 
 suppose I was again a boy, and again found myself 
 at the shop door, having previously taken enough 
 interest in mechanics to have remembered the prin- 
 ciples I had already been taught, I could take a 
 pencil and a piece of paper and answer him thus : 
 
 " I can only say, sir, that I have prepared myself 
 somewhat for a trade ;" here, for example, in Figs. 42 
 
 and 43, are shown the shapes in which flat chisels are 
 made. The difference between the two is, that the 
 cutting edge should be parallel with the flats on the 
 chisel, and as Fig. 42 has the widest flat, it is easier 
 to tell with it when the cutting edge and the flat are 
 parallel, therefore the broad flat is the best guide in 
 holding the chisel level with the surface to be 
 chipped. Either of these chisels is of a proper width 
 for wTought iron or steel because chisels used on 
 
 Fig. 46 — Chisels for Brass and Steel. 
 
84 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 these metals take all the power to drive that can be 
 given with a hammer "of the usual proportions for 
 heavy chipping, which is, weight of hammer, i 3-4 
 lbs.; leneth of hammer handle, 13 inches ; the han- 
 die to be held at its end and swinging back about 
 vertically over the shoulder. 
 
 If I use so narrow a chisel on cast iron or brass, 
 and give full force hammer blows, it will break out 
 the metal instead of cutting it, and the break may 
 
 Fig. 47 — Chisel for Fine Cuts. 
 
 come below the depth I want to chip and leave ugly 
 cavities. So for these metals the chisel must be 
 made broader, as in Fig. 44, so that the force 
 of the blow will be spread over a greater length of 
 chisel edge, and the edge will not move forward so 
 much at each blow, therefore it will not break the 
 metal out. 
 
 Another advantage is that the broader the chisel 
 the easier it is to hold its edge fair with the work 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 85 
 
 surface and make smooth chipping. The chisel- 
 point I must make as thin as possible, the thickness 
 shown in my sketches being suitable for new chisels. 
 
 I 
 
 Fig. 48— Improperly Ground Chisel. 
 
 In grinding the two facets to form the chisel, I must 
 be careful to avoid grinding them rounded as shown 
 at A in the magnified chisel ends in Fig. 45, the 
 
 Fig. 49 - Magnified View of the Chisel Shown in Fig. 48. 
 
 proper way being to grind them flat as at B. I must 
 make the angle of these two facets as acute as I can, 
 because the chisel will then cut easier. ' 
 
86 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 The angle at C, in Fig. 45, is about right for brass, 
 and that at D is about right for steel. The differ- 
 ence is that with hard metal the more acute angle 
 dulls too quickly. 
 
 Considering the length of the cutting it may for 
 heavy chipping be made straight as in Fig. 42, 
 or curved as in Fig. 44, which is the best, because 
 the corners are relieved of duty and are therefore 
 
 ~-\: 
 I 
 
 i I 
 
 ■III 
 111 
 
 t ^ 
 
 Fig. 50— Showing a Common Error in Grinding. 
 
 less liable to break. The advantage of the curve is 
 greatest in fine chipping because, as you see in Fig. 
 47, a thin chip can be taken without cutting with 
 the corners, and these corners are exposed to the 
 eye in keeping the chisel-edge level with the work 
 surface. 
 
 In any case I must not grind it hollow in its length, 
 as in Fig. 48, or as shown exaggerated in Fig. 49, 
 
bLACKSMlTHlNCi. 
 
 ^7 
 
 because in that case the corners will dig in and cause 
 the chisel to be beyond my control, and besides that, 
 there will be a force that, acting on the wedge prin- 
 ciple and in the direction of the arrows, will operate 
 to spread the corners and break them off. 
 
 I must not grind the facets wider on one side than 
 on the other of the chisel, as in Fig. 50, because in 
 
 i 
 
 Fig. 51— Showing Another Error in Grinding. 
 
 that case the flat of the chisel will form no guide to 
 let me know when the cutting edge is level with the 
 work surface. 
 
 Nor must I grind it out of square with the chisel 
 body, as in Fig. 51, because in that case the chisel 
 will be apt to jump sideways at each hammer blow. 
 
 I can remove a quantity of metal quicker if I use 
 the cape chisel in Fig. 52 to first cut out grooves, as 
 
88 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 at A, B and C, in Fig. 53, spacing these grooves a 
 little narrower apart than the width of the flat chis- 
 sel, and thus relieving its corners. I must shape the 
 end of this cape chisel as at A and B, and not as at 
 C as in Fig. 53, because I want to be able to move 
 it sideways to guide it in a straight line, and the 
 
 Fig. 52— Proper and Improper Shapes for Cape Chisels. 
 
 parallel part at C will interfere with this, so that if I 
 start the chisel a very little out of line it will go still 
 farther out of line, and I cannot move it sideways to 
 correct this. 
 
 The round-nosed chisel, Fig. 53, I must not make 
 straight on its convex edge; it may be straight from 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 89 
 
 H to G, but from G to the point it must be beveled 
 so that by altering the height of the chisel head I can 
 alter the depth of the cut. 
 
 The cow-mouthed chisel, Fig. 55, must be beveled 
 in the same way, so that when I use it to cut out a 
 round corner, as at L in Fig. 53, I can move the 
 
 F'ig:- 53— Showing the Application of the Cape Chisel to Facilitate the 
 Work of the Flat Chisel. 
 
 head to the right or to the left, and thus govern the 
 depth of its cut. 
 
 The oil groove chisel in Fig. 56, I must make nar- 
 rower at A than it is across the curve, as it will wedge 
 in the groove it cuts. 
 
 The diamond-point chisel in Figs. 57 and 58 I 
 
90 
 
 BLACKSM1TH1N6. 
 
 must shape to suit the work, because if it is not to be 
 used to cut out the corners of very deep holes, I can 
 bevel it at M, and thus bring its point X central to 
 the body of the steel as shown by the dotted line Q, 
 rendering the corner X less liable to break, which is 
 the great trouble with this chisel. But as the bevel 
 at M necessitates the chisel being leaned over as at 
 Y, in Fig. 53, it could, in deep holes, not be kept to 
 its cut; so I must omit the bevel at M, and make that 
 edge straight as at 7? in Fig. 58. 
 
 The side chisel obeys just the same rule, so I may 
 give it bevel at W, in Fig. 59, for shallow holes and 
 lean it over as at Z in Fig. 53 or make the side V W 
 straight along its whole length, for deep ones; but in 
 all chisels for slots or mortises it is desirable to have, 
 if the circumstances will permit, some bevel on the 
 side that meets the work, so that the depth of the 
 cut can be regulated by moving the chisel head. 
 
 In all these chisels, the chip on the work steadies 
 the cutting end, and it is clear that the nearer I hold 
 the chisel at its head the steadier I can hold it and 
 the less the liability to hit my fingers, while the 
 chipped surface will be smoother. 
 
 Now, what I have said here is what I might have 
 learned before I applied at the shop, and is it not 
 almost a certainty that if there was a vacancy I 
 should have obtained the position ? Nay, more, I 
 venture to say that I should have received the ap- 
 pointment before I had made half my explanation, 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 ^1 
 
 unless, indeed, the superintendent heard me through 
 out of mere curiosity, for it certainly would, as 
 things now are, be a curiosity for a boy to have any 
 idea of the principle involved in using tools before 
 he had them actually placed in his hands — unless, 
 indeed, it be the surgeon's tools. 
 
 There is an old saying that an ounce of practice is 
 worth a pound of theory, but this sounds to me very 
 much like saying that we should do a thing first and 
 find out how it ought to be done afterwards. Yet I 
 should not care to patronize a young dentist or a 
 young surgeon who was pursuing his profession in 
 this way. 
 
 I may, however, illustrate to you some of the 
 points I have explained by adding to the pound of 
 theory I have advanced an ounce of practice. Here, 
 for example, I have to take a chip off a piece of 
 wrought-iron, and, as it is a heavy chip, I stand well 
 away from the vise, as an old hand would do, instead 
 of close to it, as would be natural in an uninstructed 
 beginner. In the one case you will observe that the 
 body is lithe and supple, having a slight motion in 
 unison with the hammer, while in the other it is con- 
 strained, and not only feels but looks awkward. If, 
 now, I wish to take a light chip, I must stand nearer 
 to the work, so that I can watch the chisel's action 
 and keep its depth of cut level. In both cases I push 
 the chisel forward to its cut and hold it as steadily as 
 I can. 
 
92 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 It is a mistake to move it at each blow in this way, 
 as many do, because it cannot be so accurately main- 
 tained at the proper weight. 
 
 Here I take a deep cut on a piece of brass, and 
 the full force blows have broken it out, for the 
 reasons I explained just now. Next we will take a 
 
 Fig. 54— The Round Nose Chisel. 
 
 finishing cut across, leaving the surface smooth and 
 more level for the filing that is to follow. Light and 
 quick blows are always necessary for the finishing 
 cuts, whatever the kind of metal may be. 
 
 Here are two cape chisels, one formed as at ^ and 
 the other as at C, in Fig. 52, and a cut being taken 
 with each, you will see that I have been able to direct 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 93 
 
 the path sideways of but that I could not do so 
 with C. 
 
 With the side chisel alone I can illustrate the 
 points made with reference to the chisel shown in 
 Figs. 54, 55, 57, 58 and 59, namely, that there must 
 be a bevel made at the end in order to enable the 
 depth of cut to be adjusted and governed, for if I 
 happened to get the straight chisel too deeply into 
 its cut I cannot alter it, and unless I begin a new cut 
 it will get imbedded deeper and will finally break. 
 But with this side chisel. Fig. 59, that is slightly 
 beveled, I can regulate the depth of cut, making it 
 less if it gets too deep, or deeper if it gets too shallow. 
 
 The chisel that is driven by hammer blows may be 
 said to be to some extent a connecting link between 
 the hammer and the cutting tool, the main difference 
 being that the chisel moves to the work while the 
 work generally moves to the cutting tool. In many 
 stone-dressing tools the chisel and hammer are com- 
 bined, inasmuch as that the end of the hammer is 
 chisel-shaped, an example of this kind of tool be- 
 ing given in the pick that flour millers use to dress 
 their grinding stones. On the other hand we may 
 show the connection between the chisel and the cut- 
 ting tool by the fact that the wood-worker uses the 
 chisel by driving it with a mallet, and also by using it 
 for a cutting tool for work driven in the lathe. In- 
 deed, we may take one of these carpenter's chisels 
 and fasten it to the revolving shaft of a wood-planing 
 
94 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 machine, and it becomes a planing knife ; or we may 
 put it into a carpenter's hand plane, and by pushing 
 it to the work it becomes a plane blade. In each 
 case it is simply a wedge whose end is made more 
 or less acute so as to make it as sharp as possible, 
 while still retaining strength enough to sever the 
 material it is to operate upon. 
 
 In whatever forrr we may apply this wedge, there 
 
 Fig. 55— Showing how the Cow Mouih Chisel is Beveled. 
 
 are certain well-defined mechanical principles that 
 govern its use. Thus when we employ it as a hand 
 tool its direction of motion under hammer blows is 
 governed by the inclination of that of its faces which 
 meets the strongest side of the work, while it is the 
 weakest side of the material that moves the most to 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 95 
 
 admit the wedge and therefore becomes the chip, 
 cutting, or shaving. In Fig. 60, for example, we 
 have the carpenter's chisel operating at A and B to 
 cut out a recess or mortise, and it is seen that so 
 loner as the face of the chisel that is next to the work 
 
 Fig. 56 — The Oil Groove Chisel. 
 
 is placed level with the straight surface of the work 
 the depth of cut will be equal, or, in other words, 
 the line of motion of the chisel is that of the chisel 
 face that lies against the work. At C and is a 
 chisel with, in the one instance, the straight, and in 
 
96 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 the Other, the beveled face toward the work surface. 
 In both cases the cut would gradually deepen be- 
 cause the lower surface of the chisel is not parallel 
 to the face of the work. 
 
 If now we consider the extreme cutting edge of 
 
 Fig- 57— The Diamond Point Chisel for Shallow Work. 
 
 chisel or wedge-shaped tools it will readily occur that 
 but for the metal behind this fine edge the shaving 
 or cutting would come off in a straight ribbon and 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 97 
 
 that the bend or curl that the cutting assumes in- 
 creases with the angle of the face of the wedge that 
 meets the cutting, shaving or chip. 
 
 I may, for example, take a piece of lead and with 
 a pen-knife held as at y^, Fig. 6i, cut off a curl bent 
 
 Fig. 58— The Diamond Point Chisel for Deep Work. 
 
 to a large curve, but if I hold the same knife as at B 
 it will cause the shaving to curl up more. Now it 
 has taken some power to effect this extra bending or 
 curling, and it is therefore desirable to avoid it as 
 
98 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 far as possible. For the purpose of distinction we 
 may call that face of the chisel which meets the 
 shaving the top face, and that which lies next to the 
 main body of the work the bottom face. Now at 
 whatever angle these two faces of the chisel may be 
 to the other and in whatever way we present the 
 
 Fig. 59— The Side Chisel. 
 
 chisel to the work, the strength of the cutting edge 
 depends upon the angle of the bottom face to the 
 line of motion of the chisel, and this is a principle 
 that applies to all tools embodying the wedge prin- 
 ciple, whether they are moved by a machine or by 
 hand. 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 99 
 
 Thus, in Fig. 62, we have placed the bottom face 
 at an angle of 80 degrees to the line of tool motion, 
 which is denoted by the arrow, and we at once per- 
 ceive its weakness. If the angle of the top face to 
 
 Fig. 60— Showing that the depth of the Cut depends upon the position 
 and direction of the lower surface of the Chisel. 
 
 the line of tool motion is determined upon, we may 
 therefore obtain the strongest cutting edge in a 
 
 Fig. 61— Showing that the Effect of the Cutting Edge depends upon 
 the Angle of the Bottom Face to the Chisel's line of motion. 
 
 hand-moved tool by causing the bottom angle to lie 
 flat upon the work surface. 
 
 But in tools driven by power, and therefore accu- 
 rately guided in their line of motion, it is preferable 
 
lOO 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 to let the bottom face clear the work surface, save at 
 the extreme cutting edge. The front face of the 
 wedge or tool is that which mainly determines its 
 keenness, as may be seen from Fig. 63, in which we 
 
 Fig. 62— Showing the Bottom Face at an Angle of 80 degrees to the 
 Line of Motion. 
 
 have the wedge or tool differently placed with rela- 
 tion to the work, that in position A obviously being 
 the keenest and least liable to break from the strain 
 
 Fig. 63— Showing two Positions of the Wedge. 
 
 of the cutting process. — From a lecture delivered by 
 Joshua Rose before the Franklin Institute, Phila- 
 delphia, 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 lOI 
 
 Chipping and Cold Chisels. 
 
 Permit me to make some remarks on my experi- 
 ence with chipping chisels, 
 
 " There's not much of interest in the subject," you 
 may say, " for everybody knows all about cold 
 chisels, ' 
 
 Not exactly, for there are a good many chisels 
 that are not properly shaped. Figs, 64 and 65 rep- 
 resent common shapes of cape chisels. That in Fig. 
 64 is faulty because it is a parallel or nearly so from 
 
 A A 
 
 Fig. 64— Chipping and Cold Chisels. A Chisel Faulty at the Point. 
 
 A to B and a straight taper from B to C ; its being 
 parallel from A to B causes it to stick and jam in 
 the groove it cuts, or even to wedge when the cor- 
 ners of the cutting edge get a little dulled; while if 
 they should break (and these corners sometimes do 
 break) there is the whole of the flat place to grind, 
 if the side is ground at all, as it is desirable when 
 the break extends up the chisel and not across its 
 cutting edge. 
 
102 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 " The Sticking don't amount to much nor does the 
 grmding," is the answer. 
 
 It amounts to some unnecessary sticking that 
 makes it very difficult to alter the angle of the chisel 
 if It IS gomg too deep or not deep enough, and so it 
 IS an impediment to smooth, even chipping. The 
 grmdmg amounts to some unnecessary grinding, and 
 furthermore, the chisel thus shaped is more difficult 
 to forge, very little more difficult I grant, but more 
 difficult all the same. 
 
 Haven't you seen men tug at a chisel to get it out 
 
 A 
 
 Fig. 65— A Better Shape for Cold Chisels. 
 
 of a keyway ? Haven't you seen them hit it side- 
 ways with a hammer to loosen it in the sides of the 
 cut ? I have. 
 
 Fig. 64 would do very well for a keyway in a bore, 
 but for outside work it is also faulty because it is too 
 weak across E; hence Fig. 65 is, for outside work, 
 the best shape, being stiffer and therefore less 
 springy. 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 103 
 
 All these I think are plain and well grounded 
 points, and so to settle a discussion on them I was 
 blindfolded and given three cape chisels, two like 
 Fig. 65, and one like Fig. 64, and in a dozen trials 
 at chipping told each time I was given the one like 
 Fig. 64. I claim that the shape makes a tangible 
 dilTerence. I could tell by the chipping, for it was a 
 piece of machine steel I was chipping, and the cor- 
 ners of Fig. 64 soon began to round and the chisel 
 to wedge. 
 
 As to the flat chisel, haven't you often seen it hol- 
 low along the cutting edge, and isn't that more likely 
 to break and more liable to stick than one a little 
 rounding ? 
 
 There is one more point that I will mention, and 
 that is a habit many have of pulling the flat chisel 
 back from the cut after every blow. I have seen 
 some good workmen do it, and I am not disposed to 
 find particular fault with it, but I think it is unnec- 
 essary, at least I see no end that it accomplishes. 
 I like the chisel to lie steadily under a little hand 
 pressure against the cut so that I can feel that the 
 lower face of the chisel rests fairly and evenly upon 
 the bottom face (as it must do to chip straight), and 
 having got it at the proper angle to the work, I like 
 to carry the cut clear across without moving it once. 
 It is a-kind of machine chipping that reminds one 
 of Rowell's running, on, on, on; it goes without a 
 falter. Now a word about using the hammer, not 
 
I04 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 that there is much to discuss about it, but simply to 
 round off the subject. The old style was a i 3-4 lb. 
 hammer with handle 15 inches long, and this is all 
 right for the man who does chipping enough to keep 
 his muscles well hardened and can swing his ham- 
 mer ten hours a day without feeling it next day, but 
 it is better to get broke in with a i 1-4 lb. hammer. 
 
 I had at one time a i 3-4 lb. hammer and a i 1-4 
 (or a little heavier than that) hammer, and was well 
 broke in at chipping, having had about a year at get- 
 ting out work with hammer, chisel and file; the i 
 3-4 hammer broke and I took to the smaller one; I 
 found that I could not do as much work with it and 
 it began to tell on my hands, because I could use 
 the lighter hammer quicker, and in doing this I natu- 
 rally gripped it tighter and it told on me, indeed it 
 would sometimes be a minute before I could straight- 
 en my fingers out after releasing the hammer ; of 
 course the handle was a little less in diameter, and 
 that had something to do with it, but not all, 
 because my left hand, gripping the chisel, which I 
 always did firmly, never tired, nor did the fingers 
 stiffen, though the diameter of the chisel was smaller 
 than the small hammer handle. 
 
 The palm of my hand would, with the small ham- 
 mer, get red and feel nervous and twitchy, while it 
 would not do so with the heavy one. 
 
 Did you ever notice what different styles there are 
 in using a chipping hammer, how much more the 
 
BLACKSMITHING. I05 
 
 wrist and elbow are used by some than by others ? 
 Yes, and there are graceful and ungraceful chippers. 
 I like to see (I am talking of heavy hand chipping 
 of course) the chipper stand, for the heavy cuts, not 
 too close to the vise, use the wrist very little, the 
 elbow not much, the shoulder a good deal, and to let 
 the body swing a little with the hammer, the ham- 
 mer head going as far back as about vertically over 
 the shoulder, and that is the time when every blow 
 tells. 
 
 For the last or smoothing cut I like to see the 
 hammer handle held a quarter way up from the end, 
 the chipper to stand pretty close to his work, using 
 the wrist a little and the elbow, but not the shoulder 
 joint ; and just in proportion as the chisels are 
 smaller, the wrist used more and the elbow less. 
 
 " What is a good day's chipping for a man thor- 
 oughly broken in ?" 
 
 Well, I should say on a chipping strip of cast 
 iron 3-4 inch wide, taking a cut, say, a full 1-16 inch 
 deep, 600 running inches is a good day's work, to 
 keep it up day after day. — By Hammer and Tongs. 
 
 How to Make Cold Chisels. 
 
 What I have to say about cold chisels is from 
 purely practical experience. In the first place we do 
 not get the best quality of cast steel, and the kind we 
 do get is very inferior to what we used to have in 
 
io6 
 
 BLACKSMiTHll^Go 
 
 years gone by (say "befo' de wa' "). We now use 
 what is called the Black Diamond, and this is not 
 
 Fig. 66— Showing a Faulty Method of Making a Chisel. 
 
 often very suitable for heavy cutting such as steel 
 rails. When a chisel comes from the hammer of the 
 
 Fig. 67— Showing how the Hammer Marks are Ground out. 
 
 smith, as a general rule, It is taken to the grindstone 
 and given a bevel and then it is called ready for use. 
 
BLACksMltniNG. 107 
 
 But it is not. If a chisel is made, tempered, and 
 ground properly it will stand until the head wears 
 down to the eyes. In Fig. 66 of the accompanying 
 illustrations, the reader can readily see that the 
 chisel is not true with the hammer marks on each 
 side, and that it also has hammer marks on the edges 
 when it is made and tempered. It may seem as if 
 this would not make a great difference, but never- 
 
 Fig. 68— Showing how the Chisel is Beveled. 
 
 theless it does. When I make a chisel and temper 
 it (I have to find the proper temper to put in the 
 steel I am working, as steel differs in grade), I take 
 it to the grinding stone and grind out the hammer 
 marks on each side half way up to the eye, and on 
 edges as seen in Fig. 67, so that it will be in the cen- 
 ter of the chisel represented by dotted line in Fig. 
 67. By grinding all the hammer marks out on each, 
 side the tool becomes less liable to jar or chatter, 
 and it is jarring or chattering which generally causes 
 
io8 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 the chisel to break. I grind it rounding from the 
 eye or half way from the eye to the point on both 
 sides, after which I give it the bevel as in Fig. 68. 
 I round it on the sides as an axe is rounded and 
 also on the edg-e. 
 
 Cast steel should be worked with charcoal, which 
 adds to instead of diminishing the most important 
 element in steel, which is carbon, while stone coal, 
 through its sulphur, takes away the carbon. The 
 continual use of stone for smith coal reduces the 
 steel and makes h almost worthless, for tools. — By W. 
 
 Forging Cold Chisels. 
 
 Many blacksmiths find a difficulty in drawing out 
 a cold chisel so that it will cut steel, but if they forge 
 their chisels as I do, the trouble will disappear. 
 Thus, let Fig. 69 represent the chisel to be dravvm 
 
 U } 
 
 Fig. 69 — Chisel to be Fig. 70— Siiows Shape After Forging. 
 Drawn out. 
 
 out to the dotted lines. Heat the chisel about as far 
 up as shown in the cut to a blood red, and first forge 
 it down to the dotted lines in Fig. 70 ; then flatten 
 out the sides, but do not hammer the steel after it is 
 cooled below a red heat. ' Strike quick and not too 
 heavy blows, especially on the edge. — By O. P. 
 
CHAPTER IV. 
 
 DRILLS AND DRILLING. 
 
 Making a Drill Press. 
 The drill press shown in the accompanying en- 
 graving, if properly made, will drill a perfectly 
 
 Fig. 71— A Drill Press as Designed by "R. E." 
 
 Straight hole. It will drill from the smallest to the 
 largest hole without any danger of breaking the bit. 
 
I lO 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 The lever ^, in Fig. 71, \s 1% x. % inch and five 
 feet long. The part C is 3 x 6 inches. The chain 
 A can be of the length most convenient for the 
 operator. — By R. E. 
 
 Drilling in the Blacksmith Shop. 
 
 In my shop there is not much drilling done, and 
 what there is done is composed principally of small 
 holes and countersinking for holes inch and less 
 in diameter. For this purpose I use an ordinary 
 hand drill, but I have found, as I expect other 
 people have found also, that for larger holes than 
 those above named the breast drill becomes quite a 
 nuisance. It is almost impossible to hold it steady, 
 and it drives entirely too hard. It takes a great deal 
 of pushing to get the drill to feed, no matter how 
 thin the drill point is made. So, as I said above, I 
 discarded the breast drill for all holes over inch 
 in diameter. For holes from inch up to about ^ 
 inch I used the clamp-shaped rest shown in Fig. 72. 
 I made the back of A very much broader than is 
 generally done in such cases, so as to prevent it from 
 bending, a great fault in articles of this kind, as 
 commonly made. I made the work table, T, about 6 
 inches square and gave the feed screw, S, a much 
 finer pitch than is usual. I employ 12 threads per 
 inch, by means of which I can feed as lightly as I 
 like. I use all square shank drills, and let the end 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 I I I 
 
 of the shank pass through the socket so that I can 
 knock the drill out easily. This answers very well 
 for holes that are not too deep. A man can stand 
 the work in such cases, For deep holes and those 
 from Y2 inch in diameter upwards I have a small 
 machine, shown in Fig. 73, which I had made to 
 order. The reader will see that it has no self-feed 
 
 Fig. 72— An Ordinary Hand Drill Improved. 
 
 on it. Inasmuch as the operator has got to stand 
 by the machine and mind the wheel it is just as easy, 
 it seems to me, to put on the feed, and in doing so 
 he can increase or diminish it according to the feel 
 of the drill. In this case, as in the other already 
 mentioned, I made the feed screw, S, with a pitch of 
 12 threads to the inch, and bushed the feed wheel, F, 
 so that I could put in a new nut whenever the 
 
112 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 threads wore. I made the cap, C, screw on so that I 
 could easily take it off and put in a washer for tak- 
 ing up any lost motion in the feed screw collar. I 
 bought cut gear, G, for I think every drill should 
 have such gear, because they run so much easier. 
 The drilling takes enough hard work to drive with- 
 out losing any power through cast gear wheels. I 
 made the driving wheel, W, larger than usual, and 
 fastened the handle,/^, in the slot so that I could move 
 
 Fig- 73 — A Bench Drill. 
 
 it further away or closer to the hub, according to cir- 
 cumstances. Every one of the alterations from the 
 ordinary form here described, I am convinced, are 
 substantial improvements. 
 
 In the course of time work came along that I 
 could not get under the machine last mentioned, and 
 other work came in that required holes too big to be 
 bored in a hand machine at all. For them I had to 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 resort to the ratchet brace. The rie for the ratchet 
 brace I found, as I presume every other one has 
 found who does an odd job, to be a complete nuis- 
 ance ; still, I had no choice. One day, I put a new 
 hand, a repairer I had hired, on a ratchet-brace job, 
 and left him at it, going away from my business for 
 two days' time to see about some other work. When 
 I got back I found he had rigged up what he called 
 the blacksmith's drill-frame, and which he said was 
 common enough in Scotland, but of which I only 
 knew of one other in this country. I did not like 
 the look of the thing. It appeared like a cross be- 
 tween a gallows frame and some sort of a weighing 
 machine. However, I did not say a word to my 
 man, because I felt a degree of uncertainty about 
 the matter. It might be all right, and so I waited 
 developments. I asked him : 
 
 " What, will it drill any better than can be drilled 
 by the method we have formerly used?" He made 
 reply : 
 
 " It will drill anything you can get between the 
 posts, and from i^^-inch hole up to a 2-inch hole or 
 more. 
 
 He proved this assertion by drilling first a i^-inch 
 hole, and then a i^-inch hole, that being the largest 
 drill at hand. For the large hole he used the ratchet 
 brace, using the frame as a feeding fulcrum. Fig. 
 74, of my sketches, represents the device in question. 
 It has two posts. A, and two posts, B, fast to the 
 
114 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 floor and ceiling. The fulcrum lever is pivoted at 
 C and has a feeding weight at the opposite end. 
 The lifting lever is pivoted at D, and has, at F, a 
 link connected to the end of the fulcrum lever. At 
 E is an iron plate for the drill brace to rest against, 
 and 6" is a handle to operate the lifting lever. The 
 work is rested in a movable, or it may be a fixed 
 
 pjg_ 74 — The J)evice Invented by " Blacksmith's " Man. 
 
 bench. ,The one in question, however, is made mov- 
 able. By pulling the handle, G, the fulcrum lever 
 is raised, and the drill brace or ratchet brace may be 
 put in position on the work. When G is released 
 the weight pulls down the fulcrum lever to. feed the 
 drill brace to its cut. If the weight is too heavy the 
 pressure may be relieved by pulling upon G, or by 
 
BLACKSMITHING. II5 
 
 moving the work further from the posts A, the press- 
 ure becomes less, because the leverage of the weio-ht 
 is less. This device has one fault, which is that as 
 the fulcrum lever descends in the arc of a circle, as 
 indicated by H, it may, in deep holes, become neces- 
 sary to move the upper end of the brace to drill the 
 hole straight in the work. The fulcrum lever may 
 
 Fig. 75— Simple Drill Press, as Made by Will Tod. 
 
 be raised or lowered for different heights of work by 
 shifting the pin C higher, there being holes at A, at 
 intervals, for that purpose. This device may be a 
 very old one. It is certainly good for the purpose, 
 however, and very desirable for use where there is 
 no power drill-machine. I would not be without it 
 for many times its cost, — Blacksmith, 
 
ii6 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 A Simple Drill Press. 
 
 I send, 4s shown in the accompanying engraving, 
 Fig. 75, a rig which is simple and also avoids the 
 " arc " direction which has been complained of. A 
 common iron bench screw is inserted in a 4 X4 scant- 
 ling, mortised, over the bench, into upright posts. 
 The cut explains itself. The screw (two feet long) 
 may be had for $1.00, or the smith may make one 
 
 Fig. 76— A Small Drill, as Made by " C. W. D." 
 
 himself, having a hand wheel. This arrangement 
 takes no room. — By Will Tod. 
 
 Making a Small Drill. 
 
 A very serviceable drill may be made by welding 
 the socket of a shoemaker's awl into a 3-8-inch rod, 
 5 inches long, with a countersink at the upper end 
 forming a cup to hold lubricating oil and in which 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 117 
 
 the conical center of the feed screw can work. In 
 the engraving, Fig. 76. A represents the screw and 
 B the spindle. Bore a hole through a block of wood 
 to receive the center of the spindle and put the spin- 
 dle in a two-centered lathe. Move it with a " dog" 
 and a turn pulley like a common thread spool. The 
 drill is run with a bow C, holdinor all in a vise. Tem- 
 pered awl blades make good drill bits.— C. W. D. 
 
 To Drill a Chilled Mold-Board. 
 
 If you want to drill a hole or file a notch in a stove 
 plate or ploughshare, or other piece of cast-iron, lay 
 it on the fire level until it is cherry red, and then 
 with tongs lay a bit of brimstone on the spot you 
 wish to soften, the piece of brimstone being a trifle 
 less in diameter than the hole you need. Leave the 
 iron on the fire until cold enough to handle and it 
 will yield to your tools. — By D. T. 
 
 Holding Long Bars in Drilling. 
 
 A good method of holding long bars of iron, such 
 as sled shoes, so that the holes can be drilled in them 
 easily by one person, is as follows : Take a strong 
 i^-inch cord or rope and fasten it to the ceiling 
 about five, six or seven feet from the drilling ma- 
 chine, then fasten a pound nut on the end of the rope 
 and let it reach nearly to the floor. When you wish 
 to drill iron, wrap the rope around the iron once at 
 
BLACKSMITMlNG. 
 
 the height you want and you will find that you will 
 have a very handy tool. You can drive a nail so as 
 to hang it up out of the way when not in use. — By 
 A. W. B. 
 
 Drilling Glass. 
 
 Stick a piece of stiff clay or putty on the part 
 where you wish to make the hole. Make a hole in 
 the putty the size you want the hole, reaching to 
 the glass, of course. Into this hole pour a little 
 molten lead, when, unless it is very thick glass, the 
 piece will immediately drop out. 
 
 Straightening Shafts or Screws — A Remedy for Dull and 
 Squeaking Drills. 
 
 Every machinist who has ever attempted to 
 straighten a polished shaft or screw knows the diffi- 
 culty of marking the point of untruth when the work 
 is revolved on the centers of a lathe. By procuring 
 a piece of copper pointed on one end and of a shape 
 suitable to fill the tool post, and allowing it to touch 
 the work as it turns, a red mark will be left, even on 
 a brightly polished surface, and this will furnish the 
 desired guide for correction, and at the same time if 
 a short piece of octagon steel about i^)^ inches 
 diameter is allowed to partly lie beside the tool post 
 in its T slot, the straightening bar used may be ful- 
 crumed on this with the copper tool still remaining 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 119 
 
 in the tool post, thus expediting the work. If a piece 
 of sheet copper is screwed or riveted to the end of the 
 bar used for straightening, no injury will result to 
 the work from its contact therewith. 
 
 Blacksmiths and machinists who use twist drills, 
 have probably been bothered when drilling moder- 
 ately hard steel by the squeaking and slow cutting of 
 the drill caused by the rapid dalling of its edges. 
 To remedy this, first sharpen the drill, then procure 
 a small piece of tool steel, say 4 inches long, half an 
 inch wide, and 3-16 to ^ of an inch thick, and after 
 rounding and tempering one end, place the offend- 
 ing drill in a vise, between a pair of copper clamps, 
 gripping it so that the cutting points will be well 
 supported. Then by holding the tempered point of 
 the tool I have described, against the lips of the drill 
 and striking lightly with a hammer on the opposite 
 end, the lips will be upset so that a good clearance 
 will be secured, and the results will be satisfactory if 
 the operation has been carefully done. 
 
 This upsetting will, of course, slightly enlarge the 
 diameter of the drill, but in most cases this will do 
 no harm.— -^jK J- F- Ross. 
 
 A Chinese Dril!. 
 Some time ago I read an account of the high 
 quality of Chinese steel. I think there must be some 
 mistake about it. During five years' residence in 
 - China, I often examined and remarked the inferior 
 
I 20 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 quality of their drills, gravers, etc., and I think their 
 best steel is all imported from England, as I know their 
 finer iron is. They have an ingenious arrangement 
 for drilling, which is remarkably rapid. As shown 
 
 Fig- 77— A Chinese Drill as Described by Will Tod. 
 
 in the accompanying engraving, Fig. 77, the drill is 
 fixed in an upright bamboo, which is weighted by a 
 stone (not unlike an old grindstone), at top. It is 
 attached by strings from the top to a handpiece 
 which slides up and down the lower end of the rod. 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 121 
 
 When the rod is revolved and the hand piece held 
 still, the strings wind on the rod and raise the hand 
 piece, and the machine is "wound up." To start 
 drilling, press the hand piece down the rod till the 
 
 Fig. 78— A Drill and Countersink, as Made by C. H. Preble. 
 
 Strings become unwound by the rod revolving; 
 lighten the pressure and the momentum will wind 
 the machine up the reverse way, when pressure is 
 again resumed. — By Will Tod. 
 
 A Drill and Countersink Combined. 
 I enclose sketch, Fig. 78, of a tool made by my- 
 self last Summer, and which may be of some in- 
 
12^ 
 
 feLACKSMltHlNG. 
 
 terest to carriage-smiths and blacksmiths who do 
 tiring. 
 
 It is a drill and countersink combined, for use on 
 buggy tires. It can also be applied to drilling and 
 countersinking sleigh and sled shoes. It makes quite 
 a saving in time by removing the necessity for using 
 a drill and a countersink separately. 
 
 It is made so that when the drill part begins to go 
 through the tire, the countersink begins to cut, and 
 when the work is countersunk to the proper depth it 
 is stopped by a shoulder on the tool. Any black- 
 smith can make this tool in a very short time, and 
 after using one he will never go back to the old 
 method.— C. H. Preble. 
 
 A Handy Drill. 
 
 I have a drill made by myself that is simple, 
 strong, and very effective. Any blacksmith can make 
 it in the following manner : 
 
 Take a two-inch rod of iron long enough to reach 
 from the bench to the shop loft, then take two bars 
 of iron, by 5-8 inches, and turn good solid eyes 
 
 Fig. 79— Showing the Bars with Eyes Turned in them. 
 
 on them, as shown in Fig. 79 of the illustration. The 
 pieces should be about three feet long. Then shape 
 them as shown in Fig. 80, the top and bottom pieces 
 
BLAClvSMlTHlNG. 
 
 123 
 
 being twisted to fit the shaft. Then take a drill brace 
 made as shown in Fig. 8i. The top part of brace 
 
 Fig. 80— The Bars Bent. 
 
 works as a ratchet. The four eyes on the shaft have 
 set screws to hold them in position. The pieces 
 
 Fig. 81 -The Drill Completed. 
 
 shown in Figs. 80 and 81 can, by means of the set 
 screws, be easily adjusted to the work to be drilled, 
 
124 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 and will take in larger work than most drills. The 
 drill stock works the same as a ratchet drill. The 
 bottom side of the top cap should be slotted so as to 
 hold the drill stock in place. The thread on the 
 drill can be made four inches long or longer as de- 
 sired. The threads should be cut very coarse so 
 that they will not wear out too soon. Fig. 8i shows 
 the drill completed. 
 
 This drill can be used to good advantage on steam 
 
 Fig. 82— A Home-Made Drill, showing How the Shank H is Formed 
 and the End A Upset. 
 
 boilers and other machinery that cannot be brought 
 into the shop. — By J. W. J. 
 
 A Home-Made Drill. 
 
 I make a drill brace as follows : 
 
 I take a round rod of iron, size 1 inches, shape it 
 as shown in Fig. 82 of the accompanying illustration, 
 upset it at^, and make it about 1% inches square 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 1 25 
 
 there. I then punch a hole in this end about the 
 same as if for an old-fashioned bit brace, to receive 
 the drill shank. I then take a flat piece of iron 
 about a foot long, and draw the ends shown in Fig. 
 83 at B. I next take a large nut or a plug of 
 
 Fig. 83— Showing the Flat Piece Ready for Welding. 
 
 iron i^inch square, and weld it on the flat 
 piece at C, making it 2 inches thick. I then puneh 
 or drill a hole large enough to take in the shank 
 shown in Fig. 82, and cut a very coarse thread to 
 prevent it from wearing loose. I next weld the ends 
 
 Fig. 84 — Showing the Piece of Scantling Used. 
 
 B, B, together, and the brace is then ready to be put 
 together as shown in Fig. 85. I next take a piece of 
 scantling 4x4, cut a mortise in one end as shown in 
 Fig. 84, and bore a half-inch hole at R, and fasten 
 
126 ' BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 this scantling- over a joist directly over the back of 
 
 Fig. 85— Showing the Joist, Vise Bench, and Drill. 
 
 the vise bench. I put a steel plate on the lover 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 127 
 
 end of the piece shown in Fig. 84, and " dot " it well 
 to keep the drill from slipping off. In Fig. 85 the 
 brace is shown completed, L being the joist and 6" 
 the vise bench. This is a handy and cheap way to 
 make a drill, and answers well in a small shop where 
 room is scarce. This make of drill works on the 
 same principle as the ratchet drill, and can be adapted 
 
 Fig. 86— A Stone Drill as Made by W. O. West. 
 
 to heavy or light drilling. As the drill cuts itself 
 loose it can be tightened by turning the ratchet D. 
 It is the best home-made drill I know of. — By], W. J. 
 
 Making and Tempering Stone Drills. 
 
 My method of sharpening and tempering stone 
 drills may be of interest to some fellow craftsmen. 
 
 First, in making a drill do not draw down the steel, 
 but cut ofT each side and then upset back to widen 
 
128 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 the bit, making strong or light to suit the hardness 
 or softness of the stone to be drilled. Next place 
 the drill in the vise and trim off as shown in the 
 accompanying cut, Fig. 86, then lay it down until 
 cool, and then file and temper. Draw the temper 
 twice to a deep blue and you will then have a tool 
 that will drill without cornering a hole, and one 
 
 Fig. 87— Form of Drill for Smooth, Straight, or Round Hole. 
 
 that will also stand much better than an ordinary 
 drill.— ^j/ W. O. West. 
 
 Some Hints About Drills. 
 
 To drill a smooth, straight and round hole with a 
 flat drill let the diameter, as at in Fig. 87, be 
 
 C > 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 129 
 
 enough larger than the shank A to allow the cuttings 
 to pass freely and parallel, to steady the drill in the 
 hole. Let the bevel at E and F be, for iron and 
 
 Fig. 88 — Form of Drill to Cut Freely in Wrought Iron or Steel. 
 
 Steel, just enough to clear well, and for crass, give 
 more bevel, as at Bi. To make a drill cut freely on 
 
 Fig. 89— Showing center of rotation at H. 
 
 wrought iron or steel, give it a lip by setting the cut- 
 ting-edges forward as in Fig. 88. 
 
130 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 To make a drill drive easily, first be sure that it 
 runs true and that it is ground true. Suppose, for 
 example that the center of rotation of the drill shown 
 in Fig. 89 is at H, and the cutting edges be ground 
 
 Fig. 90— ShoAvs Drill Ground too Much on One Side. 
 
 as shown. Then ^will cut a certain-sized hole, and 
 /^will simply act to enlarge it, so that the rate of 
 feed can only be sufficient for one cutting-edge in- 
 stead of for two. If the drill be ground to one side, 
 
 Fig. 91 — Showing another Improper Way of Grinding. 
 
 as in Fig. 90 — H being the center of rotation — all 
 the cutting will be done by the edge F, and the rate 
 of feed must again be only one-half what it could be 
 if both edores acted as cuttino--edo;'es. 
 
 Another secret in making a drill cut easily is to 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 keep the point thin, so that it shall not cut a flat place 
 at the bottom of the cone, as shown in Fig". 91 at (9, 
 which increases the force necessary to feed the drill. 
 
 Drills for brass work should have the cutting edges 
 form a more acute angle one to the other than drills 
 for the fibrous metals^ such as steel or iron. 
 
 Oil should be supplied to a drill when used on 
 wrought iron, steel, or copper, but the drill should 
 run dry on cast iron, brass and the soft metals, such 
 
 I ^ 
 
 . 
 
 Fig. 92— Showing how to Mark a Piece of Work to be Drilled. 
 
 as babbitt metal, tin, lead, etc.; but very hard steel 
 is easier cut dry than with oil. 
 
 For all ordinary work, a drill should be tempered 
 to a bright purple, but for extra hard metal a brown 
 temper may be used. 
 
 To drill a hole very true to location, mark it as in 
 Fig. 92, the outer circle being of the diameter of the 
 hole to be drilled, and the smaller one simply serving 
 as a guide to show if the drill is started true. Both 
 circles should be defined by small center-punch 
 marks, as shown, as the oil and cuttings would ob- 
 scure a simple line. 
 
132 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 Drifts and D riflings. 
 
 The drift is a useful tool, once extensively em- 
 ployed, which has been pushed aside by improved 
 machinery. Still, as many a country shop is unsup- 
 plied with a slotting machine, the drift may often be 
 used with advantage yet. Indeed no other hand tool 
 will cut with precision a small angular hole where 
 there is no thoroughfare ; and even where the tools 
 
 Fig. 93 — ShoAing the Simplest Form of Drift. 
 
 can pass through, if the metal be thick or there be a 
 number of holes to cut, the drift will be more 
 economical than the file. 
 
 The simplest form of a drift is a steel plug, as 
 shown in Fig. 93 of the accompanying illustrations. 
 This is used to dre.ss out a square hole, especially 
 one with no thoroughfare. It is driven into the hole, 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 the edge A cutting a chip as it descends. The under- 
 side slopes back, slightly from the cutting face to al- 
 low room for chips when the hole does not go 
 through the metal. 
 
 To take a second cut, a thin strip of brass or steel, 
 such as shown in Fig, 94, is inserted behind the drift 
 before driving it again, and further cuts are taken by 
 
 Fig. 94_Showing the Strip used in making a Second Cut. 
 
 backing up the drift with similar strips until the hole 
 is cut to gauge. 
 
 \ The commonest form of drift is made of a tapered 
 bar of steel, around which teeth— about eight to the 
 inch— are cut with a file, as in Fig. 95. It will readily 
 be seen how a round hole is squared, or a square 
 hole enlarged by driving such a drift through it. 
 The teeth will cut better if filed somewhat diagonal- 
 ly. The tool being very hard, must be fairly struck 
 
134 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 or it will be liable to break at one of the notches. A 
 round hole can be converted into a hexagonal one in 
 a similar way by means of a six-sided drift, more 
 quickly and much more exactly than by filing. 
 
 To square a round hole with no thoroughfare, in a 
 
 Fig. 95 — Showing the Commonest Form of Drift. 
 
 box wrench for instance, it is first made flat on the 
 bottom, say with a D bit. Then a half round plug 
 is inserted as backing, and a flat drift driven in and 
 gradually fed to the work by strips of brass till half 
 of the hole is cut square. The half round plug is 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 then withdrawn, the drift faced the other way, and 
 the other half of the hole cut, suitable backing being 
 inserted. A half round drift, cutting on its flat face, 
 
 Fig. 96— Showing a Drift used for making Round Holes Oval, 
 
 could be used for this job, instead of the flat one, but 
 would not be so easily backed up and directed. 
 
 Half round drifts, cutting on the round face as 
 shown in Fig. 96, are used to make round holes oval, 
 in hammer eyes for instance. They are backed up 
 first by a half round plug and then fed to the work 
 by slips of brass or steel. In this instance, how- 
 ever, the half round plug must have a shoulder, as 
 shown in Fig. 97, to keep it from slipping through 
 the hole. 
 
13^ BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 These are but the simplest styles of drifting, but 
 
 Fig- 97— Showing how the Shoulder ir, made on the Plug. 
 
 they show that the drift can be used to cut almost 
 any shape of hole. — Bj/ Will Tod. 
 
CHAPTER V. 
 
 FULLERING AND SWAGING. 
 
 The Principles of Fullering. 
 
 I should like to say a few words about swaging, 
 which will, I think, be of interest to the younger 
 members of our trade if not to the older ones. 
 Suppose, then, that we take a bar of iron, such as B, 
 
 Fig. 98— A Bar in wiiicii a Square Recess is being Forged. 
 
 m Fig. 98, and forge on it a square recess. The bar 
 will get a certain amount longer, and, in the neigh- 
 borhood of the recess, a certain amount wider also. 
 Just what the amount would be under any given 
 condition is a matter concerning which I am not aware, 
 
/ 
 
 i3§ blacKsmitHing. / 
 
 but it would, doubtless, vary with the shape and size 
 of the bar, and perhaps also with its degree of tem- 
 perature. I should suppose that the greater the heat 
 the more the metal would spread sideways and the 
 less the bar would elongate, but I may be wrong in 
 this view. 
 
 This is a matter of more importance to black- 
 smiths than at first sight appears. Suppose, for ex- 
 ample, a blacksmith is given a pair of dies to make 
 
 Fig. 99— A Round Fuller Substitute. 
 
 some drop forgings with ; in selecting the best size 
 and shape of bar, the question at once arises as'to 
 how much the bar will spread in each direction un- 
 der the action of the blows. 
 
 To take a specific case, suppose we require to 
 forge in a die some blocks of iron that must 
 measure H inch by ItV inch, and be, say, four inches 
 long, there being enough taper on them to permit 
 
blacksmithing. l^g 
 
 their easy extraction from the die ; now, what would 
 be the best siz - of iron to use, and how far should it 
 be placed in the die? Would it be better to cut off 
 the pieces, lay them in the die, and let the blows 
 spread them out, or to take a bar, place it a certain 
 distance over the die and depend upon the elonga- 
 tion of the bar to fill the die ? 
 
 One could, of course, make an experiment for any 
 
 Fig-. loo— Spreading a Bar. 
 
 given job, but it seems to me there could be got 
 from experiments a rule upon the spreading of iron 
 under compressive blows that would be of great use- 
 fulness. 
 
 If, instead of a square fuller, we take a round one, 
 as in Fig 99, A and C representing top and bottom 
 fullers, and B the bar, the effect is to increase the 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 elongation of the bar and diminish its spread across 
 the width. 
 
 If we require to spread the bar as much as possible 
 and increase its width, we turn the fuller around, as 
 
 Fig. loi -The end of a Bar to be Forged as shown by the Dotted Lines. 
 
 in Fig. loo, causing the spreading to occur, as denot- 
 ed'by the dotted lines. 
 
 Suppose it were required to forge the end of the 
 bar in Fig. loi to the shape denoted by the dotted 
 lines, the first operation would be to fuller, as at 
 Fig. I02. Then the fuller would be applied as 
 
 Fig. I02 — The First Operation. 
 
 in F g. 103, being slanted, as shown, to drive the 
 metal outwards, as denoted by the arrows. 
 
 Thus the fuller is shown to require considerable 
 judgment in its use, and to be one of the most useful 
 blacksmith tools. 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 If we were to follow the plan of the scientific men, 
 we could very easily claim that a flatter is simply a 
 fuller, on the ground (as the scientists state with ref- 
 erence to gear wheels and racks) that if we suppose 
 
 Yig, 103— The Fuller Applied to drive the Metal Outward. 
 
 the radius of a fuller curve to be infinite in length, 
 then a portion of its circumference may be represent- 
 ed by a straight line ; hence, a flatter becomes a 
 fuller whose radius is of infinite length. — By R. J. 
 
 • 
 
 About Swages. 
 
 The old method of forging a swage was to take a 
 piece of the best quality band iron and roll it up to 
 make the body of the swage, and then weld a face of 
 shear or double shear steel on it, the finished tool ap- 
 pearing as in Fig. iot,%. This forms a good and 
 
142 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 durable tool, possessing two advantages : First, that 
 a chisel-rod can be used as a handle, instead of re- 
 quiring to have an eye punched and a trimmed or 
 turned handle ; and secondly, that when the head is 
 
 Fig. I03>^— Old Method of Forging a Swage. 
 
 worn down a new one can readily be welded on, and 
 the tool need not be thrown away. 
 
 In modern practice, however, solid steel swages 
 are employed which, on account of the cheapness of 
 
 Fig. 104 -Semi-circular Top Swage for Round Work. 
 
 steel and the cheapness of production when made as 
 at present in quantities, obviates to a great extent 
 the necessity for a blacksmith to forge his own tools. 
 A swage for round work may be semicircular, as in 
 Fig. 104, which represents a top swage only, or V- 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 shaped, as in Fig. 105, which shows atop and bot- 
 tom swage. There is, however, this difference be- 
 tween the two. That shown in Fig. 104 makes a 
 neater and more truly circular job, but is more apt to 
 draw the work hollow than that shown in Fig. 105. 
 The reason of this is that the impact of Fig. 104 is 
 on two sides only, tending to crush the work to an 
 oval instead of closing it to the center, while that 
 shown in Fig. 105 compresses the work on four 
 
 . Fig. 105 — V-shaped Top and Bottom Swage. 
 
 sides, and prevents its bulging sideways. When 
 iron is compressed on both sides, and liberty is given 
 it to move sideways, the fibers are apt to work one 
 past the other, and a sort of disintegrating process 
 sets in, so that, if the forging be carried to excess on 
 these two sides, without being carried on on the two 
 sides at right angles, the iron will finally split. But 
 if the compression is carried on on four equidistant 
 sides, the forging may be carried to an indefinite ex- 
 
144 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 tent without separating the fibers, or "hammering 
 hollow," as it is termed. For these reasons, the 
 form shown in Fig. 104 is used to finish work, and, 
 indeed, is used exclusively on small work ; while on 
 large work, under steam-hammers, the form shown in 
 Fig. 105 is used to rough out the work, and that in 
 Fig. 104 to finish with. It is obvious that heavier 
 blows may be used without injury to the iron, while 
 
 Fig. 106— Shows a Spring Swage for Light Work. 
 
 the form shown in Fig. 105 is used, the shape of the 
 working face' only being, of course, referred to. 
 
 On very light -work, when the hand-hammer only 
 is used, a spring swage, such as shown in Fig. 106, is 
 often used because the top swage guides itself, and 
 the operator, holding the work in one hand and the 
 hand-hammer in the other, is enabled to use the 
 swage without the aid of a helper. 
 
BLACKSMITIIING. I45 
 
 Another method of guiding a small swage is shown 
 in Fig. 107, in which the bottom swage is shown to 
 contain a recess to guide the top one by inclosing 
 its outside surfaces. 
 
 The holes of circular or round swages are always 
 made of larger circle than the diameter of the work, 
 so that the hole between the two swages, when 
 placed together, will be an oval. This is necessary to 
 
 Fig. 107— Recessed Svvage. 
 
 prevent the swage hollow from wedging upon the 
 work, and it becomes obvious that in consequence of 
 this form the hollow of the swage must not envelop 
 half the diameter. In practice it usually envelops 
 one-third, or, in large work, still less. 
 
 In collar-swages, such as shown in Figs. io6and 107, 
 the recess for the collar is (to prevent the work from 
 
146 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 wedging in the recess) made narrower at the bottom 
 than at the top, so that the work may easily be 
 revolved by hand and easily removed from the 
 swage. 
 
 Swage-blocks, such as shown in Fig. 108, should 
 have the holes passing through them, as at A, a true 
 circle or square, as the case may be, and parallel for 
 the full length of the hole. But the recesses, B, 
 should be oval, as in the case of hand-swages. Swage- 
 
 Fig. 108— Swage Block for General Work. 
 
 slots, such as shown at C, should, for parallel work, 
 be parallel in their lengths, but taper in their depths, 
 being narrowest at the bottoms of the recesses or 
 slots. 
 
 . Swages for steam-hammers should have flanges on 
 two opposite sides, as shown in Fig. 109, in which JJ 
 is an anvil block, S' a block swage, and 6" a hand- 
 swage, and this flange should pass below and envelop 
 the angle block so as to prevent the swage from 
 
BLACK3MITHING. 
 
 147 
 
 moving the anvil-block when the work is pushed 
 through the swage ; and it follows that the flanges 
 should be on the sides of the swage where the swage- 
 hole emerges, or in other words, the length of the 
 flanges should be at a right angle to the working 
 curved face of the swage. The handle, H, of the 
 hand-swage should be below the level of the striking 
 face, S, so that the hammer-face shall, in no case 
 
 Fig. 109 -Form of Swage for Steam Hammers. 
 
 Strike it, which would cause it to vibrate and sting, 
 or perhaps injure the operator's hands. 
 
 If the position of the steam hammer or other 
 causes renders it necessary, on account of the length 
 of the work, to have the length of the swage-block 
 run at a right angle to the hammer (as in the case of 
 long work done under a trip-hammer, where the 
 parts of the machine under the helm would be in the 
 way of the work), then the flange must fit the sides 
 instead of the front of the anvil-block, as shown in 
 Fig. 1 10. For small work intended to be neatly fin- 
 
148 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 ished under a trip-hammer, hinged stamps, finishing 
 tools or dies are often used. Suppose, for example, 
 it be required to forge pieces such as shown in Fig. 
 1 1 1 ; then, after being roughed out, they may be 
 neatly and cleanly finished to size and shape in a pair 
 of hinged dies, such as shown in Fig. 112. The 
 
 Fig. no — Another Form of Swage for Steam Hammers. 
 
 curves in the dies, however, require to be of larger 
 radius than those of the work, so that they may not 
 jam the work and prevent it being revolved in the 
 dies. But the depth of the recess in the dies is made 
 correct for the diameter of the dies, so that when the 
 faces of the two halves of the die meet the work will 
 
 Fig. Ill — Specimen of Forging. 
 
 be of correct diameter. To free the dies of the oxi- 
 dized scale falling from the forging, a supply of 
 water is necessary, otherwise the scale would drive 
 into the work-surface, making it both rough and hard 
 to cut, Sometimes, instead of the pivoted joint, 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 149 
 
 Fig. 112, the ends are composed of a spring similar 
 to that shown in Fig. 106, which enables the fiat 
 
 Fig. 112— Hinged Dies for Forging Fig. in. 
 
 faces of the dies to approach each other more nearly 
 parallel one to the other. 
 
 Rules for Swaging. 
 
 To make a good jump weld it requires good judg- 
 ment on the part of the smith in getting the two 
 pieces fullered properly before welding. Many smiths 
 
 Yig, 1 13— Correct method of Fullering or Swaging. 
 
 do not think or use good judgment when making a 
 weld of this kind. To make a jump weld for a 
 
BLaCKSMITHING. 
 
 shank, carriage-step, or for any other purpose, pro- 
 ceed as in Fig. 113. Fuller at 6"^, upset the shank 
 
 Fig, 114 — Incorrect Method. 
 
 A, as at the projecting parts, X, X. The shank, A, 
 at X, X, is the important point to take notice of when 
 
 Fig. 1 1 5 — Correct Way of Finishing. 
 
 making the weld. Always let the shank, ^, extend 
 over the fullered part, C, as at X, X. This will give 
 
 Fig. 116 — Incorrect Way of Punishing. 
 
 you a good chance in using the fuller when welding 
 so as to get the scarfs, X, X, solid to the part B, 
 
BLACK SMITHING. 
 
 Never fuller the part C, or forge the part^, as is 
 shown in Fig. ii4- If Y^u do, you will not get a 
 solid weld. To make a neat as well as a strong job, 
 finish as is shown at P, in Fig. 115. Never finish 
 as is shown at H, H, in Fig. 116. A weld made as at 
 H. H, in Fig. 1 16, is not as strong as if made as shown 
 in Fig. 115. — By Now and Then. 
 
 A Stand for a Swage-Block. 
 A blacksmith of my acquaintance once abused the 
 swage-block because he stubbed his toes against it. 
 
 Fig. 117-Stand for a Swage-Block. 
 
 I want to tell him and others how to save their toes 
 and the swage-block, too. 
 
 Let him make a stand for it with four legs, like Figs. 
 117 and 118, shown herewith. Fig. 117 shows the 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 block, e,f, lying flat, resting on the ledge shown by 
 the dotted line, a, b. The dotted lines, ^, h, show how 
 the block would stand when upright in the stirrup. 
 
 Fig. 118— Showing the Side of the Block when Upright, 
 
 c,d. Fig. 118 shows the side of the block when 
 upright. — By Will Tod. 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 MISCELLANEOUS TOOLS. 
 
 The Principles on which Edge Tools Operate. 
 
 All cutting and piercing edge-tools operate on the 
 principle of the wedge. A brad-awl furnishes an ex- 
 ample which all can readily understand. The cut- 
 ting edge of the awl severs the fibres of wood as the 
 instrument enters, and the particles are compressed 
 into a smaller compass, in the same manner as when 
 a piece of wood is separated by a wedge. A chisel 
 is a wedge in one sense ; and an ax, drawing knife, 
 or jack-knife is also a wedge. When a keen-edged 
 razor is made to clip a hair or to remove a man's 
 beard, it operates on the principle of the wedge. 
 
 Every intelligent mechanic understands that when 
 a wedge is dressed out smoothly, it may be driven in 
 with much less force than if its surface were left 
 jagged and rough. The same idea holds good with 
 respect to edge-tools. If the cutting edge be ground 
 and whet to as fine an edge as may be practicable 
 with a fine-gritted whet-stone, and if the surface 
 
154 
 
 teLACKSMlTHlNG. 
 
 back of the cutting edge be ground smooth and true, 
 and polished neatly, so that one can discern the 
 color of his eyes by means of the polished surface, 
 the tool will enter whatever is to be cut by the ap- 
 plication of much less force than if the surfaces were 
 left as rough as they usually are when the tool leaves 
 the grindstone. All edge-tools, such as axes, chisels 
 and planes, that are operated with 2iCrtishing\nstQ2.(i 
 of a drawing stroke, should be polished neatly clear 
 to the cutting edge, to facilitate their entrance into 
 the substance to be cut. 
 
 Hints on the Care of Tools. 
 
 The following hints on the best means of keeping 
 tools in good condition cannot fail to be useful : 
 
 Wooden Parts. — The wooden parts of tools, such 
 as the stocks of planes and handles of chisels, are 
 often made to have a nice appearance by French 
 polishing; but this adds nothing to their durability. 
 A much better plan is to let them soak in linseed oil 
 for a week, and rub them with a cloth for a few min- 
 utes every day for a week or two. This produces a 
 beautiful surface, and at the same time exerts a solid- 
 ifying and preservative action on the wood. 
 
 Iron Parts. — Rtist preventives. — The following 
 receipts are recommended for preventing rust on 
 iron and steel surfaces : 
 
 I. Caoutchouc oil is said to have proved efficient 
 
BLACi<:sMlTHtN6. 
 
 in preventing rust, and to have been adopted by the 
 German army. It only requires to be spread with 
 a piece of flannel in a very thin layer over the me- 
 tallic surface, and allowed to dry up. Such a coating 
 will afford security against all atmospheric influ- 
 ences, and will not show any cracks under the mi- 
 croscope after a year's standing. To remove it, the 
 article has simply to be treated with caoutchouc oil 
 again, and washed after 12 to 24 hours. 
 
 2. A solution of india rubber in benzine has been 
 used for years as a coating for steel, iron, and lead, 
 and has been found a simple means of keeping them 
 from oxidizing. It can be easily applied with a 
 brush, and is as easily rubbed off. It should be made 
 about the consistency of c/eam. 
 
 3. All steel articles can be perfectly preserved 
 from rust by putting a lump of freshly-burnt lime in 
 the drawer or case in which they are kept. If the 
 things are to be moved (as a gun in its case, for in- 
 stance), put the lime in a muslin bag. This is es- 
 pecially valuable for specimens of iron when frac- 
 tured, for in a moderately dry place the lime will 
 not want any renewing for many years, as it is cap- 
 able of absorbing a large quantity of moisture. Ar- 
 ticles in use should be placed in a box nearly filled 
 with thoroughly pulverized slaked lime. Before 
 using them, rub well with a woolen cloth. 
 
 4. The following mixture forms an excellent 
 brown coating for protecting iron and steel from 
 
■56 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 rust : Dissolve 2 parts crystallized iron chloride, 2 
 antimony chloride, and i tannin, in water, and apply 
 with sponge or rag, and let dry. Then another coat 
 of the paint is applied, and again another, if neces- 
 sary, until the color becomes as dark as desired. 
 When dry it is washed with water, allowed to dry 
 again, and the surface polished with boiled linseed 
 oil. The antimony chloride must be as nearly neu- 
 tral as possible. 
 
 5. To keep tools from rusting, take ^ oz. cam- 
 phor, dissolve in i lb.' melted lard ; take off the scum 
 and mix in as much fine black lead (graphite) as will 
 give it an iron color. Clean the tools, and smear 
 with the mixture. After 24 hours, rub clean with a 
 soft linen cloth. The tools will keep clean for months 
 under ordinary circumstances. 
 
 6. Put I quart fresh slaked lime, ^ lb. washing 
 soda, ^ lb. soft soap in a bucket ; add sufficient 
 water to cover the articles ; put in the tools as soon 
 as possible after use, and wipe them up next morn- 
 ing, or let them remain until wanted. 
 
 7. Soft soap, with half its weight of^ pearlash ; 
 one ounce of mixture in about i gallon boiling water. 
 This is in every-day use in most engineers' shops in 
 the drip-cans used for turning long articles bright in 
 wrought iron and steel. The work, though constantly 
 moist, does not rust, and bright nuts are immersed 
 in it for days till wanted, and retain their polish. 
 
BLACKSMITUING. 
 
 J57 
 
 Names of Tools and their Pronunciation. 
 
 Pane, Pene, Peen, which is correct ? Pane is the 
 correct word for the sniaU end of a hammer head, 
 Pene or Peen being corruptions. As soon as you 
 leave without any necessity or reason the correct 
 word Pane, you enter a discussion as to whether Pene 
 
 Fig. 119 — Shows various Styles of Wrenches. 
 
 or Peen shall be substituted, with some advocates 
 and custom in favor* of both. If custom is to decide 
 the matter, Pane will have it all its own way, because, 
 of the English speaking people of the earth, there 
 are, say, thirty-six millions in England, four millions 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 in the West Indies, six or seven millions in Austra- 
 lia with the Cape of Good Hope and other English 
 colonies to count in, who aU use the original and 
 correct word Pane, besides Canada and the United 
 States ; the former having a majority in favor of 
 Pane from their population being largely English, 
 Scotch, etc., and the latter having some of its great- 
 est authorities, Pane-ites and therefore uncorrupted. 
 Don't let us, as Tennyson says, 
 
 " Think the rustic cackle of your burg, 
 The murmur of the world." 
 
 Peen may be used in all parts of the country where 
 " Old Fogy" has been, but it is not used where I 
 have been and that is in Great Britain, the West In- 
 dies, South American English-speaking countries, as 
 Guiana, and not in some parts of the United States ; 
 or rather by some mechanics in the United States. 
 
 The fact is these corruptions are creeping in and 
 creating dire confusion in many cases. For exam- 
 ple : A lathe-work carrier or driver has now got to 
 be called a "dog" in the United States. This is 
 wrong, because if the word carrier is used as in 
 other English-speaking countries, the thing is dis- 
 tinct, there being no other tool or appliance to a 
 lathe thai; is called a carrier. But if the word used 
 is " dog " we do not know whether it means a dog to 
 drive work between the centers of the lathe, or a 
 dog to hold the work to a face-plate, the latter be- 
 in^- the original and proper " dog." 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 Again, in all other English-speaking countries, a 
 key that fits on the top and bottom is a "key," 
 while one that fits on the sides is a " feather." Now 
 a good many in the United States are calling the 
 latter a " key," hence, with the abandonment -of the 
 word " feather," a man finding in a contract that a 
 piece of work is to be held by a key, don't know 
 whether to let it fit on the top or bottom or on the 
 sides, and it happens that some mechanics won't 
 have a feather when a key can be used, while others 
 won't have a key at any price. 
 
 Let us see what has come of adopting other cor- 
 ruptions in the United States, and I ask the read- 
 er the following questions : If I ask a boy to fetch 
 me a three-quarter wrench, is he not as much justi- 
 fied in bringing me one to fit a three-quarter inch 
 tap as a three-quarter inch nut wrench ? How is he 
 to know whether a solid wrench, hexagon wrench or 
 a square wrench is meant ? In other English-speak- 
 ing countries, an instrument for rotating the heads 
 of tools, and having a square hole to receive such 
 heads, is a wrench. Thus a three-quarter wrench 
 is a wrench that will fit a three-quarter tap. A 
 " wrench " that spans the side of a nut, and is open 
 at the end, is termed a " spanner." There can be no 
 mistake about it, it is a spanner or a thing that spans. 
 
 Now, suppose the " wrench" goes on the end of 
 the nut head, you call it a box wrench, because its 
 hole is enclosed on all sides but one, and it boxes in 
 
i6o 
 
 BLACKSMITIIING. 
 
 the bolt head. Thus the term wrench is properly 
 applied to those tools in which the head of the work 
 is enveloped on all sides by the tool (but not of 
 course, at the end or ends). 
 
 For example, in Fig. 119, A is a spanner, B a 
 box wrench, E a double (handled) and D a single 
 wrench, and from these simple elements a name can 
 be given to any form of wrench that will indicate its 
 form and use. Thus, Fig. 120 will be a pin span- 
 ner, so that if a boy who did not know the tools was 
 sent to pick out any required tool from its name he 
 
 Fig. 120 — A Pin Spanner. 
 
 would be able to do so if given the simple defini- 
 tions I have named. These definitions are the old 
 ones more used among the English-speaking people 
 than " monkey wrench," which indicates a cross be- 
 tween a monkey and a wrench. 
 
 No, no, don't let the errors of a minority influence 
 us simply because we happen to be in a place or 
 town where that minority is prominent, and if we are 
 to make an American language let it be an Ameri- 
 can improvement, having system and reason in its 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 l6l 
 
 composition. A man need not say p-e-n-e, pane, be- 
 cause the majority of those around his locaHty were 
 Irishmen and would pronounce it that way whether 
 you spell it pane, pene, or peen. A man need not 
 spell h-a-m-m-e-r and pronounce it hom7ner because 
 the majority of those in the place he is in are Scotch- 
 men. And we need not alter pane to pene or peen 
 promiscuously because a majority of those around us 
 do so, they being in a minority of those speaking our 
 language, especially since pene or peen does not sig- 
 nify the thing named any plainer than pane, which 
 caji be found in the dictionary, while the ioxm^x can t 
 be found there. 
 
 We have got now to some Americanisms in pro- 
 nunciation that are all wrong, and that some of our 
 school-teachers will insist on, thus : d-a u-n-t-e-d is 
 pronounced by a majority of Americans somewhat as 
 darnted, instead of more like dawnted : now, if daun, 
 in daunted, is pronounced darn, please pronounce 
 d, a, u in daughter and it becomes " darter." I shrink 
 from making other comparisons as, for example, if 
 au spells ah or ar, pronounce c-a-u g-h-t. 
 
 We are the most correct English-speaking nation 
 in the world, and let us remain so, making our alter- 
 ations and additions improvements, and not merely 
 meaningless idioms. — By Hammer and Tongs. 
 
 Note. — This writer talks learnedly, but neverthe- 
 less he is condemned by the very authority which he 
 cites (and correctly too) in support of his pronun- 
 
l62 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 ciation of the word Pane. Webster's Unabridged 
 gives the au in daunted the. sound of a in farther so 
 that the word (our contributor to the contrary not- 
 withstanding), should be pronounced as though 
 spelled Darnted. — Ed. 
 
 Tongs for Bolt-Making. 
 
 I send a sketch of a pair of tongs suitable for mak- 
 ing bolts. The jaws are eight inches and the reins 
 ten inches long. A glance at the engraving, Fig. 
 
 ^ u ;;i 
 
 JOIN. X filN, . >' 
 
 Fig. 121 — Tongs Designed by "Southern Blacksmith." 
 
 121, will show that it is not necessary to open the 
 hands to catch the head on any size of bolt. These 
 tongs should be made very light. The trouble with 
 all nail grabs is that the rivet is put too near the 
 prongs, and when you try to get nails out of the bot- 
 tom of a keg the reins catch in the top and the tongs 
 can't open far enough. — By Southern Blacksmith. 
 
 Home-Made Fan for Blacksmith's Use. 
 
 To construct a home-made hand blower proceed as 
 follows : Make two side pieces of suitable boards of 
 the shape shown in Fig. 122 of the accompanying 
 sketches. Make a narrow groove in the line marked 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 163 
 
 A. Procure a strip of sheet-iron of the width the 
 blower is desired to be, and bend it to correspond 
 
 Fig. 1 23— Manner of Attaching the Fans to the Shaft of Blower. 
 
164 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 will form the blower case. The small circle shown 
 in the center of Fig. 122, incloses a portion to be cut 
 out for the admission of the current of air. The 
 shaft is made by taking a block of wood large enough 
 to make a pulley about inches in diameter, the 
 
 Fig. 124— Cross-section Through Blower, showing Bearings for Shaft. 
 
 length of the block being from bearing to bearing of 
 shaft. Bore a central longitudinal hole ^-inch in 
 diameter in the block, turn a plug to fit the hole. 
 Put the plug in place and place all on the lathe and 
 turn, leaving the part where fans are to be attached 
 about I 2-5 inches in diameter. Square this part 
 and fasten the fans thereto, as shown in Fig. 123. 
 
BLACK SMITHING. 
 
 Constructed as there shown they are intended to re- 
 volve from left to right. On removing the block 
 from the lathe the wooden plug is withdrawn and 
 a rod of half-inch iron is put in, projecting at 
 each end an inch and a quarter for journals. The 
 bearings for the shaft are simply blocks of wood 
 screwed to the sides of the case, with holes bored to 
 
 Fig. 125 — General View of Blower, in connection with Forge. 
 
 1 
 
 fit the shaft as shown in Fig. 124. The dimensions 
 of my blower are as follows : Case, 9 inches in diam- 
 eter inside of sheet-iron; width of case, 3 inches; cen- 
 tral opening; to admit air, 3 inches in diameter ; pul- 
 ley, i^ inches in diameter. The fans are of pine, 
 one-quarter inch thick at the base, diminishing in 
 
i66 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 thickness to one-eighth inch at the point. Fig-. 125 
 shows my portable forge, upon which the above de- 
 scribed fan is employed. The frame is made of four- 
 foot pine fence pickets. The fire-pot is an old soap 
 kettle partly filled with ashes to prevent the bottom 
 from getting too hot. — By E. H. W. 
 
 Making a Pair of Pinchers. 
 
 The subject of my remarks is one of the simplest 
 yet most useful tools in the shop, a pair of pinchers. 
 Fully one-half of my brother,smiths will say, " Who 
 
 Fig. 126 — Shows Method of Forging. 
 
 doesn't know all about pinchers From the appear- 
 ance of two-thirds of those I see in use, I am con- 
 vinced that if the makers knew all about them, then 
 they slighted their work when they made them. To 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 167 
 
 make a neat and strong pair of pinchers, forge out of 
 good cast steel such a shape as is shown in Fig. 126, 
 and then bend to shape, as in the dotted lines. When 
 one-half of the forging is done, forge the other jaw 
 
 Pig. 127— Showing the Pinchers Finished. 
 
 in same way, and make sure that they have plenty of 
 play before riveting them together. Then fit and 
 temper, and you will have a strong neat tool, as 
 shown in Fig. 127. Fig. 128 represents the style of 
 
 Fig. 128— Showing a Faulty Method of Making Pinchers. 
 
 pinchers generally made. They are awkward and 
 weak looking, and work about as they look. The 
 cutting edge is entirely too far from the nvet.—Bj/ 
 J. O. H. 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 A Handy Tool for Holding Iron and Turning Nuts. 
 Fig. 129 represents a small tool I use in my shop 
 and find very handy to hold round iron and turn 
 huts, etc., in hard places. Wheelwrights and carriage 
 painters, as well as blacksmiths, will find it a very 
 
 Fig. 129— Tool for Holding Iron and Turning Nuts. 
 
 convenient tool. It is of steel and is quite light. It 
 is made the same as a pair of tongs, having teeth 
 filed on the inside of the jaws and having clasp pull- 
 ers on the end of the handles.— i^jj/ L. F. F. 
 
 A Handy Tool to Hold Countersunk Bolts. 
 A handy tool to hold countersunk bolts in plows, 
 etc., is made as follows : I take a piece of iron, say 
 ^-inch square and ten inches long, as shown in Fig. 
 130, and punch a slotted hole four inches from the 
 pointed end. The hole should be ^ x >^ inch. I 
 then take a piece of iron ^-inch square and make a 
 slotted hole in this at one end and a tenon in the 
 
BLACKSMITHING, 169 
 
 Other, as shown at A in Fig. 131. I next punch a 
 %-inch hole in the slotted end, and then take apiece 
 of iron ^ inch x }4 inch and 6 inches long, and draw 
 one end out to ^ inch and turn a hook on it, as 
 shown in Fig. 132. I then punch two or three holes 
 in the other end, take a piece of steel ^ inch x % 
 
 Fig. 130— The First Stage in the Job. 
 
 inch, draw it to a point like a cold chisel; then take 
 the piece shown in Fig. 13, split the end, and put 
 in the small pointed piece I have just mentioned, and 
 weld and temper. I then put all my pieces together 
 in the following manner : After heating the tenon 
 end of the piece A in Fig. 1 3 1 to a good heat, I place 
 
 | pli Ill 111^ ^Illl^ll^ 
 
 Fig- 131— Two additional parts of the Tool. 
 
 it in my vise and place on the piece shown in Fig. 
 130, letting the tenon of the piece A go through the 
 piece shown in Fig. 130, and while it is hot rivet or 
 head it over snugly and tightly. If this is done right, 
 the tenon and slotted hole in A will point the same way. 
 I then take the piece B shown in Fig. 131, and place 
 
iyd IBLACKSMITHINC. 
 
 it in the slot of A and join the two pieces with a loose 
 rivet, as shown in Fig. 132, so that the piece can be 
 moved about to suit different kinds of work. I next 
 place the pointed end of the bolt holder against the 
 bolt head and give the other end a tap with the ham- 
 
 Fig. 132— The Parts united and Tool complete. 
 
 mer ; then hook the piece shown in Fig. 131 over the 
 plow bar and bear down on the cutter end with my 
 knee, while with my 'wrench I take off the top. A 
 ring may be welded in the end to use in hanging the 
 tool up. — By C. W. C. 
 
 Making a Pair of Clinching Tongs. 
 
 The following is my way of making clinching 
 tongs : I take a piece of 5-8 square steel and forge 
 it out the same as I would for common tongs, mak- 
 ing the jaws }4 inch wide by 3-8 inch thick, one jaw 
 1 inches long and the other 2}i inches in length. I 
 then draw out the short jaw to 10 inches and draw 
 the long one to 12 inches. I then turn the long jaw 
 back as shown at A in Fig. 133 of the accompanying 
 engravings, and shape the short jaw as in Fig. 1 34. I 
 next take the i^^-inch fuller and notch the inside of 
 
BLACKSMitiliNG. 
 
 the short jaw as shown at B in Fig. 134. I then put 
 notches in the long jaw at A, and next drill a 5-16- 
 
 Fig. 133— The Long Jaw. 
 
 inch rivet hole as in other tongs and take a 5 16-inch 
 bolt with a long thread and screw one nut on the 
 
 Fig. 134 — The Short Jaw. 
 
 bolt down far enough to receive both jaws and 
 another nut. I then temper the curved jaw at A 
 
 Fig- 13s — The Tongs Complete, • 
 
 until a good file can just cut it. I next put in the 
 bolt and bend the reins as shown in Fig. 135. The 
 
172 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 object of bending at C is to prevent the jaws from 
 pinching your fingers if they slip off a clinch. I have 
 a pair of tongs made in this way that I have used 
 for the last five years. — By J. N. B. 
 
 Tongs for Holding Slip Lays. 
 
 The accompanying illustration, Fig. 1 36, represents 
 a pair of tongs for holding right and left hand slip 
 lays while sharpening and pointing, and making new 
 lays. This tool does away with the clamping or 
 riveting of the steel and bar before taking a welding 
 heat, because it holds the two parts together better 
 
 Fig. 136— Tongs for Holding Slip Lays. 
 
 than any clamp or rivet. The double T, or head y^, 
 is forged from Swedish iron. The handle, is weld- 
 ed to the head in the center, as shown in the illus- 
 tration, and works between the forked handle C. D 
 pushes against the end of the lay bar (right or left 
 as the case may be), and that draws the top T up 
 tight, and as it is bent in the same angle as a plow 
 lay, but little power of grip is needed to hold the 
 tongs to their place while sharpening or pointing. 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 They clamp up so tight that often you have to tap 
 them on the end of the handles to release the lay. 
 Both handles have i^-inch holes through them and 
 I use ^-inch bolts or pins in them to hold them 
 together after they have been adjusted to fit the lay- 
 Any good blacksmith can make these tongs and will 
 certainly find them very useful. — By A. O. K. 
 
CHAPTER Vir. 
 MISCELLANEOUS TOOLS. 
 
 CONTINUED. 
 
 Mending a Vise. 
 
 I will make a few remarks about the vise, a tool 
 which blacksmiths use every day. Some smiths be- 
 lieve that when the threads or screws are worn out, 
 it is necessary to buy a new vise. But this is an 
 error; for the old vise can be mended so as to be as 
 good as a new one. The job is done as follows : 
 
 First cut the old vise screw off where the screw 
 stops, or about two inches from the collar of the large 
 end, then weld on a new piece of round iron and turn 
 threads on it the same as if for a new vise screw. 
 To get them in line these threads should be done 
 with a lathe. It is better to have the screws taper 
 slightly. The next thing in order will be to get the 
 screw threads in the box. First, take a drill and turn 
 the old threads out, smoothly and true. Care must 
 be taken to have a space of at least 3-16 of an inch 
 all round the screw when it is placed in the thread- 
 less box. Then take a long piece of Swedish iron 
 just thick enough to be bent in the screw, and about 
 3-16, or a fraction under, than the depth of the threads 
 on the screws. Bend this flat iron from one end of 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 the screw to the other, then make another piece of 
 iron that will fit in the screws that the first piece of 
 iron left after it was bent. This second piece we find 
 will be as thick as the screws on the vise screw, and 
 as wide as the first piece extends above the screws. 
 This being done, all is closed up smooth, the second 
 piece holding the main threads firm after the screw 
 is turned out. Now the threads are on the vise screw, 
 and it is nearly ready to be put in the box. First 
 dress the outside of the threads off, so the screw can 
 be driven in the box when it is a little warm, then 
 drive screw threads all into the box at about the 
 place where they belong, then let the box cool, and 
 turn the screw out of the threads and braze the 
 screws ; put the brass on end side. When you are 
 melting it, keep turning the box so it will be brazed 
 all over. When cool, grease the screw and threads 
 well and slowly turn it in. The main thread must 
 not fit too tightly in the screws. This makes the 
 best vise screw. By measuring the. depth of the hole 
 in the box you can tell how long to make the threads 
 on the screw — By J. W. 
 
 A Cheap Reamer. 
 
 The following may be an old idea, though I have 
 discovered it for myself : Heat an old three-cornered 
 file ; hammer one corner down, then grind the same 
 round and the other corner sharp, temper, and you 
 have a cheap taper reamer, cutting both ways. — By 
 Will Todd, 
 
176 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 Shapes of Lathe Tools. 
 
 Every toolsmith knows the trouble he has to con- 
 tend with in tool dressing. One man wants a tool 
 this shape, another a different shape. One wants 
 his tools fully hardened, while another prefers a straw 
 temper. Of course, in a shop large enough to keep 
 a toolsmith for this special work, the smith makes 
 the tools to the shape he has found by experi- 
 
 The Shape and Use of Cutting Tools for Lathes. Fig. 137 — The 
 Diamond Point Tool. 
 
 ence to be the most suitable for general work, only 
 varying it to suit some special occasion. 
 
 But in a small shop tool forging becomes a part of 
 the duty of the ordinary blacksmith, and in order 
 ttiat he may know what shapes tools should be given 
 he must understand the principles governing their 
 action. These principles I will now explain so plain- 
 ly and carefully that no one can fail to comprehend 
 them. 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 177 
 
 Fig. 137 of the accompanying illustrations repre- 
 sents what is commonly called the diamond-point 
 tool, a being its top face, b its bottom one, and c and 
 ^the cutting edges. This is a very common form of 
 
 Fig. 138 — Showing a Tool Easy to Forge and Grind. 
 
 tool, but I do not believe it is the best one even for 
 the purpose of plain outside turning, a much easier 
 tool to forge and to grind being the one shown in 
 
 Fig. 1 39— Siiowing the Rake of the Top Face. 
 
 Fig. 138. The rake of the top face is its angle in 
 the direction of the arrow in Fig. 139, and the rake 
 of the bottom face b is its angle in the direction of 
 the arrow in Fig. 140. 
 
178 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 The efficiency and the durability of the cutting- 
 edge depends upon the degrees of rake given to 
 these two faces. Obviously the less rake the strong- 
 er the cutting edge, but the less keen the tool. 
 
 If we give a tool an excess of top rake, as in Fig. 
 
 Fig. 140 — Showing the Rake of the Bottom Face. 
 
 141, the cutting edge will soon dull, but the cutting 
 C will come off clean cut and in a large coil, if the 
 
 TOOL 
 
 Fig. 141 — Showing a Tool with an Excess of Top Rake. 
 
 tool is fed into the work. The strain on the top face, 
 however, will be in the direction of D, and the tool 
 will be liable to dip into the cut when the cut deep- 
 ens, as it will in some places on account of a want of 
 roundness, in the iron. 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 179 
 
 If, on the other hand, we give too much bottom rake, 
 as in Fig. 142, the cutting edge will be weak, and 
 there being but little top rake, the pressure will be 
 in the direction of D. Furthermore, the cutting will 
 come off in almost straight pieces and all broken up. 
 
 Fig. 142 — Showing a Tool with too much Bottom Rake. 
 
 A fair amount of top and bottom rake for wrought 
 iron is shown in Fig. 143, the top rake being dimin- 
 ished for cast iron and for steel. 
 
 The best guide as to the efficiency of a tool is its 
 
 Fig. 143 — Showing a well proportioned Tool for Wrought Iron. 
 
 cuttings or chips, as they are commonly called. 
 When the tool is fed upward only, the cutting should 
 come off in a large circle as in Fig. 141, and if the 
 coil is small there is insufficient top rake, But when 
 
1 80 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 fed level along the work the cutting comes off in a 
 spiral, such as in Fig. 144. The more top rake the 
 tool has the more open the coils will be, the cutting 
 shown being as open as it should be even for the 
 softest of wrought iron. The harder the metal the 
 less top rake a tool should have, wh-le the bottom 
 rake should in all cases be kept as small as possible, 
 
 TOOL 
 
 Fig. 144 — Showing how the Cutting comes off when the Tool 
 is fed Level. 
 
 say 10 degrees for the rate of feed of an average 16- 
 inch lathe. The tool point should never stand far 
 above the top of the tool steel, the position shown in 
 Fig. 138 being for a newly-forged tool. 
 
 The practiced hand may have these tools fully 
 hardened, but the beginner should temper them to 
 a light straw color, 
 
BLACKSMITIIING. 
 
 i8i 
 
 The top of anvil should be perfectly level and 
 smooth, and the center of the same should be harder 
 than the edges, because it receives the brunt of the 
 blows. When used on the upper floors of a building, 
 when a solid foundation can not be had, resort is had 
 to a device by means of which the jar of the blows 
 is obviated. This consists in mounting the 'anvil 
 upon a stout spring whose upward rebound is coun- 
 teracted by smaller springs placed above. — By 
 Joshua Rose. 
 
 Useful Attachment to Screw Stock Dies. 
 
 Having an order to fill for a small quantity of iron 
 pins 2^ by i-8 inch in diameter, to be threaded at 
 each end with a wood screw thread, and having no 
 tools to cut the threads with, I devised and used the 
 following plan, which answered so satisfactorily that 
 I think the idea may be of service to others, and 
 hence send you sketches of it. 
 
 C in Fig. 145, is the die stock having in it the dies 
 B B, with the requisite pitch of thread. On the 
 die stock is fastened a tool post and tool at /^and a 
 copper steadying piece at A. The tool may be made 
 from i^-inch square Stubbs or Crescent steel carefully 
 filed to the shape of the thread to be cut and care- 
 fully tempered. E is a steel sleeve screwed with a 
 thread of the same pitch and sawn through its axis 
 one way to point D, and the spring tempered in oil. 
 
l82 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 The pin to be threaded is inserted through the 
 sleeve Ey which on being gripped in the vise secure- 
 
 Fig. 145— Attachment to Screw Stock Dies as designed by "W. D." 
 Side View. 
 
 ly holds the pin. When the stock is revolved E 
 regulates the pitch of the thread that the tool will 
 
 Fig. 146— Plan View of '• W. D.'s " stock. 
 
 cut on the pin. Hence the stock maybe used in the 
 ordinary manner. A plan view is shown in Fig. 146. 
 
BLACKSMlTHlNG. 
 
 i8- 
 
 If many bolts are wanted it would be well to make 
 a pair of blank or soft dies or otherwise a piece of 
 thin sheet-brass between the dies, and the sleevewill 
 be of service. I may state that the thread cut by this 
 tool when well made, is equal to any wood screw, 
 whether made of iron, steel, or manufactured brass. 
 ^By W. D. 
 
 Wear of Screw-Threading Tools. 
 It is well-known that a tap can be sharpened by 
 grinding the tops of the teeth only, and since the 
 reason of this explains why the work goes together 
 tio-hter as the tools wear, permit me to explain it. In 
 
 Fig. 1 47 -Section of Tap showing Wear of Screw-Threading Tools. 
 
 Fio-. 147, which presents a section of the tap, A B 
 are the top corners and E F the bottom corners of 
 the thread. Now, as the thread is formed by cuttmg 
 a groove, and the teeth cut the groove, it is evident 
 thtt A B cut continuously, but E F Ao not meet 
 the work until the thread is cut to its full depth, they 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 do no cutting, providing the tapping hole is the right 
 size, as it should be. It follows then that the 
 corners A B wear the most, and like all sharp 
 corners they wear rounding. 
 
 Now take the case of the die in Fig. 148, and it is 
 evident that the corners C D Ao the cutting, and, 
 therefore, wear rounding more than the corners G 
 H, which only meet the work when it has a full 
 
 Fig. 148— Section Through a Die. 
 
 thread cut on it. Now take a bolt and nut with a 
 thread cut on it by worn dies, and we shall have the 
 condition of things shown in Fig. 149 ; rounded 
 corners 2X A B on the nut and at C D on the bolt, 
 and sharp corners 2i\. E F on the nut and at G Hon 
 the bolt. Hence corners G H jam against corners 
 A B, and corners ^ jam against corners C D. So 
 much for the wear, and now for the sharpening of 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 the tap. It is evident that as the tops of the teeth 
 do the main part of the cutting, they get dull quickest, 
 
 Fig. 149— Enlarged Section Through a Bolt and Nut cut by Worn Dies. 
 
 and therefore by grinding them the teeth are greatly 
 sharpened. — By J. R. 
 
 Tool for Wagon Clips. 
 
 The following tool for use in bending buggy, 
 saddle and wagon clips, is easily made and will save 
 much time where a number of clips are used. Figs. 
 151 and 152 show the tool taken apart. In making 
 it have the width from axle to axle the required 
 width of the clip, and have the part A so that it will 
 fit up tight in the slot H. The part B, shown in Fig. 
 151, is of the same width as A. Fig. 150 shows the 
 tool put together with the clip fastened in it ready 
 for bending. In bending clips in a tool of this kind, 
 they can be formed half round, if desired. Round 
 
i86 
 
 blacksmithinG. 
 
 and square iron may be used as required. In using 
 the tool proceed as follows : Place A, of Fig. 151, in 
 the slot H, then place the clip in the slot at 0. Next 
 
 Fig. 1 50— Device for Bending Clips, with Detail of Wedge and a View 
 of a Finished Clip. 
 
 drive the wedge-shaped key D in the slots of C and 
 B. When the clip is fastened in the tool, as shown 
 
 Fig. 151 — The Principal Part of the Tool. 
 
 in Fig. 150, with a hand hammer bend the ends 
 against the parts F F oi the tool. In taking the clip 
 out of the tool drive the pin out of the slots and drive 
 
BLaCKsMITHING. 
 
 187 
 
 the clevis from the mandrils. At this stage the clip 
 will be finished, or in other words it will be shown in 
 the shape as shown at C and ready for swedging the 
 
 Fig. 1 52— Detail of the Clamping Device. 
 
 parts for the nuts. By a little practice any smith 
 will be able to bend nearly a square corner on the 
 outside of the clip. — By H. R. H. 
 
 A Handy Tool. 
 
 Many times, iu taking old carriages apart, con- 
 siderable trouble arises from the turning of bolts, as 
 
 Fig. 153— A Handy Tool. 
 
 the small square under the head will not hold the 
 bolt if the nut turns hard. In such cases it is usually 
 
i88 
 
 i3LACKSMITHING. 
 
 necessary to split the nut, to get the bolt out. The 
 tool in question will save many bolts and much 
 vexation of spirit. Set the jaws down over the head 
 B of the bolt, Fig. 153, strike on the top of the jaw 
 at A with a hammer to settle into the wood ; then 
 pinch the handles and you have it held fast, and the 
 nut can then be readily turned off. The tool is about 
 10 inches long, and 5-8 to ^ of an inch in thickness, 
 measuring through the points joined by the rivet. It 
 will work on bolts from 3-16 to 3-8, and even larger. 
 A blacksmith can make a pair in one hour, and save 
 many hours of valuable time. For the want of a 
 better name we call it a " Polly." — By O. F. F. 
 
 False Vise-Jaws for Holding Rods, etc. 
 
 Here is a simple device for holding bolts in a vise. 
 Though an old invention it is not as well-known as 
 
 Fig. 154 - False Vise-Jaws. End View. 
 
 it ought to be. Fig. 1 54 of the illustration shows the 
 end of a pair of cast-brass jaws fitting on the vise. 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 189 
 
 Fig. 155 shows one jaw. The same pattern will 
 do for both. Clamp the jaws and drill the holes, 
 filing them afterward to the shape desired. Square 
 
 Fig. 155 — Showing one of the Jaws. 
 
 holes are most useful, as they hold both round and 
 square rods. Do not make the holes larger than need 
 
 Fig. 156— The Bottom Tool for Making Spring Clips. 
 
 be, and then they may be redressed when worn, or 
 altered to suit new work. — By Will Tod. 
 
 Making Spring Clips with Round Shanks and Half-Round 
 
 Top. 
 
 The accompanying illustrations represent my 
 method of making short spring clips. The bottom 
 
IQO BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 tool shown in Fig. 156, should have a handle about 
 12 inches long. To make this tool take cast steel, 
 say 3 X I inches, and first forge out the handle, then 
 drill the two holes XX. These holes should be for 
 
 Fig. 157— Showing how the Clip is Bent. 
 
 5-16 iron, and drilled with a 1 1-32 drill as deep as the 
 shaft required is long, and should never be drilled 
 through the tool, but made as shown in Fig. 157 by 
 the dotted lines X X. Fig. 159 represents the 
 
 Fig. 158 — The Finished Clip. 
 
 'top swage. This is made of cast steel, the same as 
 any common top swage. First cut out the impres- 
 sion C the full length of the tool, then cut down the 
 recess B B, then punch out the eye D for the handle, 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 191 
 
 This top swage is made to fit the bottom swage or 
 handle tool, Fig. 1 56. To make the dips proceed 
 as follows : Cut 5-16 inch round iron the proper 
 length, bend it as shown in Fig. 157, place it in the 
 tool, Fig. 156, set the swage. Fig. 159, on top of the 
 
 Pig. 1 59_The Top Tool used in Making Spring Clips. 
 
 iron, and with five or six blows from the sledge you 
 get the clip with both corners bent, as shown in Fig. 
 158. Any smith after two or three trials will know 
 just how long to cut the iron to get the best results. 
 The tool must be kept cool, for when it gets hot it 
 will stick the clip.- -By H. R. H. 
 
 Handy Tool for Marking Joints. 
 Not wishing to secu^e everything and give noth- 
 ing in return, I send you a sketch, Fig. 160, of a 
 
192 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 handy tool to mark off joints where one cyh"ndrical 
 body joins anoth-^r. ^ is a stem on a stand E. A 
 loose sleeve, D, slides on A carrying an arm C, hold- 
 a pencil at Z). Apiece of truly surfaced wood or 
 iron, W, has marked on it the line J. Two Vs, G 
 G, receive the work P. Now, if the centers of 6^ 6^ 
 
 Fig. 160— Handy Tool for Marking Joints. 
 
 and of the stand E all coincide with the line J, then 
 E will stand central to P, and D may be moved by 
 the hand around, P being allowed to lift and fall on 
 A so as to conform to the cylindrical surface of P, 
 and a line will be marked showing- where to cut awa)^ 
 the wood on that side, and all you have to do is to 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 turn the work over and mark a similar line diamet- 
 rically opposite, the second line being shown at K. 
 —By S. M. 
 
 Tools for Holding Bolts in a Vise. 
 
 I send sketches of what I find a very handy tool 
 for holding bolts or pins. It consists of a spring 
 
 Fig. 161 — Showing how the Bolt is held by device of " M. S. H." 
 clamp that goes between the vise jaws, as in Fig. 161 
 
 Fig. 162 — Showing the Device adapted for Holding Round Pins, 
 of the accompany engravings, and has a groove in 
 its jaws to hold the round stems of bolts to the vise 
 
194 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 jaws, without damaging the heads. It may be made 
 also, as in Fig. 162, with a hole on its end as well to 
 hold round pins. It doesn't fall off the vise as other 
 clamps do. — By W. S. H. 
 
 A Tool for Making Singletree Clips. 
 
 I have recently devised a simple tool for making 
 singletree clips from a single heat and will endeavor 
 to explain how it is made. 
 
 Proceed the same as in making any kind of a bot- 
 tom swage, that is, take a piece of square iron the 
 size of the hole in the anvil, and upset one end 
 sufficiently for welding, then take another piece of 
 iron ^-inch thick by 2^ inches wide and 8^ inches 
 
 Fig. 163 — Showing How the Ends are Shaped. 
 
 long and draw the ends down to the shape shown in 
 Fig. 163 of the accompanying illustrations. Upset 
 in the center, or, if your anvil is small, a little to one 
 side of the center, or enough so that when your 
 swage is in place, the end will not project over the 
 end of the anvil. Weld on the stem and fit to the 
 anvil. Next, make two j^-inch grooves in each end 
 of the swage commencing near the end and pointing 
 to the center, as shown in Fig. 164. Have the 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 measurements as near as possible to the following: 
 From A to B, 8 inches ; from C to I), i}4 inches. 
 Next, take apiece of iron i x i ^^inches and weld on the 
 ends of the swage, extending over the swage about 
 
 Fig. 164 — Showing How the Grooves are Made. 
 
 of an inch. Open up the ends of the grooves and 
 the tool is ready for use, as in Fig. 165. 
 
 To make the clips take ^-inch round iron, cut off 
 S}4 inches long, heat in the center and bend suffi- 
 ciently to allow it to go in the tool, then flatten the 
 
 Fig. 165— The Finished Tool. 
 
 center, take the clip out and bend it over the horn 
 into shape. A smith can easily make a clip at each 
 heat Of course, for making clips of different sizes 
 the tool must be made accordingly. — By J. W. C. 
 
 Tool for Making Dash Heels. 
 
 I send sketches of a tool for making dash-heels for 
 buggies or phaetons, and will attempt to describe the 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 manner of making and using the tool. Fig. 166 rep- 
 resents the article. It is made of cast steel as far as 
 the dotted line shown to the right. At this point is 
 welded on a piece of 7-8-inch round iron for the 
 handle. The tool proper is four inches long, and 
 
 Fig. 166— Tool for Making Dash Heels. General Appearance of the 
 
 Tool. 
 
 the handle twelve inches long. The thickness or 
 depth of the tool is two and one-half inches. It is 
 made wider at the bottom than at the top. Through 
 the center of the tool, as shown in Fig. 166, a hole is 
 
 jrig_ 167— Tapering and Splitting the Piece of Iron to form the Article. 
 
 made, passing from face to face. This hole is 7-8 by 
 5-8 inch, which adapts the tool to making a heel of 
 these dimensions. This weight is ample for a piano 
 box, or phaeton body. The oval cavity in the upper 
 face of the tool is five-eighths of an inch deep. 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 197 
 
 The manner of using the tool is as follows : Use 
 Norway iron, 7-8 x ^ inch in size, and draw it out 
 wedge shape, as indicated in Fig. 167, heat the end 
 marked A A, and place the iron in the tool ; let the 
 
 Fig. 168— Appearance of the Article upon Removing from the Tool. 
 
 helper strike it four or five blows with the sledge ; 
 next take a splitting chisel and while the iron is in 
 the tool, split it, as shown in Fig. 167 at O ] replace 
 the iron in the fire, and obtaining a good welding 
 
 Fig. 169— Form of the Article Made in the Old Way. 
 
 heat, put it in the tool again and hammer down the 
 split ends in the oval part of the tool. With the 
 same heat edge up the iron ; this is done by letting 
 the piece come up two or four inches in the tool, and 
 
198 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 holding it with the tool while edging it up. With 
 the same heat also knock the iron down into the tool 
 and swage with a top oval swage to match the oval 
 of the tool. Take the iron out. It will be found 
 that a heel has been formed as shown in Fig. 168. 
 If the heel is required for a phaeton body, all that 
 remains to be done is to punch the holes ; if, on the 
 other hand, however, the heel is wanted for a piano- 
 box or any other body with a panel in the front, it 
 is necessary to bind the corner A, Fig. 168, as shown 
 by the dotted lines. 
 
 The old way of forging a dash heel was to split it, 
 
 Fig. 170— Tongs for Making the Bend shown at A in Fig. 168. 
 
 forge and swage the oval ends A A, Fig. 169, and 
 then bend the corners as shown hy X X m the same 
 figure. By forging a dash heel with the tool above 
 described, bending one corner is saved, and the 
 piece, when finished, does not set up like a stilt. 
 The oval iron comes down on to the body. In fasten- 
 ing the dash to the body always let the oval iron pro- 
 ject one-eighth of an inch beyond the edge, so as to 
 have the leather of the dash lie straight against the 
 edge of- the body. For making the bend A in Fip-. 
 
BLAClCSMItHING. 
 
 199 
 
 168, I use a pair of tongs shown in Fig. 170. The 
 lower jaw is one inch in depth and the upper jaw 
 I Vs inches. The length of the jaws is four inches, and 
 their width lys inches. The manner of using these 
 tongs is so evident upon inspection of the sketch 
 that further explanation is unnecessary. — By H. R. 
 H. 
 
 Mending Augers and other Tools. 
 It often happens that a good auger with the screw 
 broken off is thrown away as useless. Now I will 
 try to tell how I have often made a quarter repairing 
 such augers. 
 
 Take a file of suitable size and cut a groove the width 
 of the old screw about 3-16 inch deep,a little wider 
 at the bottom than the top (dovetail form). Then 
 form a piece of steel the shape of the screw with a 
 base to it neatly and tightly in the groove. Then coat 
 the edges with a mixture as follows : 
 
 Equal parts of sulphur and any white lead with 
 about a sixth of borax. Mix the three thoroughly, 
 and when about to apply the preparation wet it with 
 strong sulphuric acid, press the blank screw tightly 
 in the groove, lay it away five days, and then you 
 will find it as solid as if welded ; then smooth up and 
 file the threads on the screw. The job will not take 
 a half hour's work, or cost three cents for material, 
 and the same process may be used for mending 
 almost any broken tool, without drawing the temper. 
 —By D. F. Kirk. 
 
200 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 An Attachment to a Monkey Wrench, 
 I enclose sketches of a tool that I have found very 
 useful in my shop. It is an attachment for a monkey 
 wrench. It is made of steel and of the same size as 
 
 Fig. 171— Showing how the Teeth are made, 
 the head of the wrench. The teeth are filed in so 
 that they slant downward toward the wrench, as 
 shown in Fig. iji. A small tire-bolt holds the' at- 
 tachment in place. Fig. 172, represents the attach- 
 
 Fig. 172— Showing the Attachment in operation on the Wrench, 
 ment in position on a wrench and gripping piece of 
 pipe. This device will hold round rods or pipe as 
 well as a pair of gas-pipe tongs would — By G. W. P. 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 201 
 
 A Handy Tool for Finishing Seat Rails, etc.. 
 
 Fig. 173 represents a tool that I have found very 
 handy in finishing eyes in seat rails, braces and other 
 work that requires to be fitted exactly. I made this 
 tool like a number of others that I use, for a particu- 
 lar job. It answered the purpose so well that I made 
 others, of different sizes. It can be made by any 
 
 c 
 
 Fig. 173— A Tool for Finishing Eyes in Seat Rails, etc. 
 
 machinist. The shank, B, is 2-1-2 inches long and 1-2 
 inch in diameter to fit the drilling machine. The head, 
 A, and the follower, C, can be made to agree with the 
 work they are to be used on. The cutting lips, D, 
 are filed to shape, and tempered to straw color. With 
 this tool you can smooth wy^.—By " Blacksmith." 
 
BLACK:SMlTHING, 
 
 A Tool for Pulling Yokes on Clips. 
 The illustration, Fig. 174, represents a very handy 
 and useful tool of my own invention, which I use for 
 putting yokes on clips or as a clip puller. A and H , 
 as shown in the illustration, are of 3-8 inch square steel, 
 
 Yig, 174— A Tool to Pull Yokes on Clips. 
 
 A has two ears welded to it on each side at B, and a 
 loop is welded on at C; F hinges on to H at G, and 
 //hinges on to at /; hooks into the yoke ; B 
 hooks on the end of the clip. By closing the handles, 
 the yoke is pulled to the clip or vise.— ^7 A. D. S. 
 
 Making a Candle Holder. 
 I was driving, and full thirty miles from a railroad 
 and three miles from the town I wished to reach, 
 when I lost a jack bolt. Fortunately a little smithy 
 was near, but it was late in the day, and before the 
 son of Vulcan had finished his evening meal and was 
 ready to attend to my wants it was dark. With tal- 
 low candle in hand, the smith, with his man and I, 
 went to his shop and the job was done ; the smith 
 doing the work, the helper holding the candle. I 
 asked the smith if he found it profitable to pay a helper 
 
fiLACKSMlTHlNC. 203 
 
 to hold the candle, and he answered that he knew no 
 better way. I told him that I would pass by his shop 
 again the next day and would show him then how to 
 make a cheap and handy candle-holder. I kept my 
 word and did the job before his eyes, as follows : 
 
 I took apiece of band iron, inches wide and 
 10 inches long, bent it as shown in the accompany 
 ing illustration, so as to join the two angles, each 3 
 inches long, leaving the back, A, 4 inches. I then 
 
 Fig. 175— Showing Candle Holder Complete. 
 
 bored the holes B B, 1-2 inch, and at L (on A) made 
 a 3-8-inch hole. I next took iron ^ x 3-16-inch and 
 6 inches long, turned a shoulder on it after upsetting, 
 squared the hole at L and fitted into it the end o'n 
 E. I next took a piece of i x 12 inch hoop iron and 
 made the spring D, concaving the ends, which I 
 riveted on the inner side of A by means of the 
 shoulder on E. I next made the pieces E E and 
 G, and drilled and riveted them 2.^ 2X K K K. I 
 
204 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 next took a block of wood, H, i 1-2 inches diameter, 
 3 inches long, in which I bored a hole to suit the 
 candle, which I secured with a screw on the under 
 side, and my candlestick was complete, as seen in ac- 
 companying illustration, Fig. 175. 
 
 My friend watched me patiently all the way 
 through, and was inclined to believe that he had me 
 at my wits' end and suggested that he was no better 
 off than before. I asked him to have a little patience. 
 I soon found a piece of 7-16 round iron, turned an 
 eye on one end, and, making a point on the other, 
 passed it through the bracket. This served as a 
 support. The spring took good hold. I put the 
 stake in the bench, lowered and raised the holder 
 and turned it every way. — By Iron Doctor. 
 
 Making a Bolt Trimmer. 
 I have a bolt trimmer which is very easily made, 
 and cannot help giving satisfaction. 
 
 It is shown complete below. The cutting jaws 
 
 Fig. 176 — Showing " C. C. O.'s " Bolt Trimmer Complete. 
 
 are of good tool steel. The stationary jaw is welded 
 to the iron handle at making the handle and cut- 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 205 
 
 ter one piece. The movable cutter works in a fork, 
 as seen in Fig. 1 76. 
 
 I have my cutter made with side plates, 3x7 
 inches, and handles two feet long. 
 
 For convenience in sharpening I have put it to- 
 gether with bolts.- — By C. C. O. 
 
 A Labor-Saving Tool. 
 
 I send drawing of a tool that I have found to be 
 very handy. It is my own idea and a handy tool, 
 especially in plow or buggy work. For plow work 
 it cannot be beaten. The holder is of cast steel and 
 
 Pig, i77_Showing " B. F. C.'s" Labor-Saving Tool. 
 
 made with two spurs to fit against bolt heads. The 
 steel is welded into a ^-round iron, 18 inches long. 
 Drill four or five holes for the pin that runs through 
 the holder. 
 
 To make the holder take two pieces of 1 by 5-16 
 flat iron, weld to make as shown in Fig. 177. Round 
 the end and cut threads for burr brake or pin to hold. 
 When in use the other end is made to pull the bolts 
 to the jaw. 
 
2o6 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 It will be seen from Fig. 177 that this holder is 
 made to turn in any direction and will hold on any 
 shear. — By B. F. C. 
 
 Making a Spike-Bar. 
 
 I will try to describe a handy spike-bar and tie- 
 fork for mine road men. This tool enables them to 
 do a third more work than they could do with the 
 spike-bar generally used in coal mines. In making 
 the bar I weld i-inch square steel to i-inch round. 
 
 D 
 
 Fig. 178— Handy Spike-bar and Tie-Fork for Mine Road Men. 
 
 iron and use 7-8-round for the fork-prongs. A, in 
 the accompanying illustration, Fig. 178, represents 
 the part that goes under the tie, and B is where the 
 tool rests on the rail. The man, while driving, sits 
 at C. D should be made y^. inch longer on the un- 
 der side than the spike is. — By R. Delbridge. 
 
 How to Make a Tony Square. 
 
 This is a very simple thing to make, and very use- 
 ful for trying six or eight-square timber or iron. It 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 207 
 
 is very handy in making wheelbarrow hubs or any- 
 thing of that sort. 
 
 Take an ordinary try square and saw a slit in it 
 opposite the blade ; next take a piece of steel plate of 
 
 Fig. 179— Showing " Village Smith's" Tony Square. 
 
 the same thickness of the blade and cut it to about 
 one-third of the length of blade in the try square. 
 Insert the short blade in the slit as shown in Fig. 
 179 and you have a "tony" square that will do its 
 work as nice as you please. — By Village Smith. 
 
 An Easy Bolt Clipper. 
 
 I have a bolt clipper of my own invention and 
 which I think is a very good one. It is simple and 
 easily made The lever E, in Fig. 180, and the jaw 
 /are of one piece of solid steel. The lever L and 
 jaw J/ are also of steel, but in two pieces, as shown 
 by the dotted line at which is a joint that works 
 by the opening and closing of the handle or lever Z. 
 
 is a steel plate, there being another on the opposite 
 
208 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 side. The plates are three-sixteenths of an inch 
 thick. The distance from A to ^ is five inches 
 from center to center of bolt holes. From B to C 
 is two inches from center to center, and from center of 
 bolt hole C to joint H is three and one-half inches. 
 
 Fig. 180 — An Easy Bolt Clipper, as made by. Chris. Vogel. 
 
 From joint to center of bolt hole K is one and 
 one-half inches. The handles or levers are two feet 
 six inches in length. The set-screw T is used to 
 prevent the jaws / and M from coming together. 
 With this clipper I can cut anything up to a one-half 
 inch bolt. — By Chris. Vogel. 
 
 A Tool for Pulling on Felloes. 
 
 The illustration, Fig. 181, shows a tool I have for 
 drawing on felloes when making or repairing wheels. 
 The ring, A, which goes over the nut is about 10 
 inches in diameter ; the rod, B, is 2 feet long and 
 made from 5-8 iron. It has a thread cut one-half the 
 lenorth. C is a comet nut about one foot lonsf before 
 being bent. is a piece of x 3-8 inch flat iron 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 209 
 
 and bent as shown. It is drilled 1 1-16 so that it will 
 easily slip over the rod ; the end is widened and 
 
 Fig. 181— Tool for Pulling on Felloes, made by Louis Tuthill. 
 
 slightly turned up. There is power enough in this 
 to draw a small wheel all out of shape. — By Louis 
 Tuthill. 
 
 How to Make a Handy Hardy. 
 
 I have a very handy hardy which can be made with 
 little expense. Take an old saw file and break off 
 a short piece from each end. Draw the temper and 
 it is ready for use. If it should stick to the iron 
 when cutting, grind the sides a little. If you are 
 careful to lay it level on the anvil you will have no 
 difficulty in cutting heavy tires — by turning the 
 iron. I have used one of these hardies for a year 
 without breaking it. — By R. C. 
 
 A Handy Clincher. 
 
 The accompanying illustration, Fig. 182, repre- 
 sents a clincher which I believe to be a little better 
 
210 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 than any I have ever seen. It can be made from 
 
 Fig. 182— The Handy Clincher, as made by A. F. Reinbeck. 
 
 an old shoeing hammer. The cut shows the con- 
 struction so clearly that no further explanation is 
 necessary.— A. F. Reinbeck. 
 
 A Bolt Holder. 
 
 I have a bolt-holder that gives good satisfaction, 
 see Fig. 183 : it is very useful in preventing bolts 
 from turning. The eye is forged from 7-8 square 
 iron, the eye 5-16 x 1% inches ; the part that presses 
 against the bolt-head is steel, the iron being split 
 
 Fig. 183— Bolt Holder. 
 
 and spiral inserted ; the square part being 5 inches 
 long ; from the square to the point, about 414^ in- 
 ches ; the handle welded out of ^-inch round iron. 
 The curved piece passing through eye is made from 
 I X 14^-inch stake iron — By]. R Small, 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 211 
 
 Making a Cant-Hook. 
 
 Some smiths may think that the making of a cant- 
 hook is a job too simple to write about, but to make 
 a hook that will catch hold every time is not so easy 
 after all. My way of making such a hook is as fol- 
 lows : 
 
 First, make an eye to go around the handle, then 
 make the hook almost any shape, or bend it so that 
 
 Fig. 184— Cant-Hook. 
 
 you can then rivet it to the eye and put on the 
 handle. Bend the point so that it will lie flat on the 
 handle when closed, as shown in the accompanying 
 illustration, Fig. 184. Then it will always catch and 
 hold.— E. P. A. 
 
 Making a Cant-Hook. 
 
 The accompanying illustrations represent my way 
 of makinoj' a cant-hook. 
 
 The clasp is made of i ^ inch by i^-inch Norway 
 iron. I get the exact measure around the handle, 
 and if it be 9 inches around, I measure 4.% inches on 
 the Norway bar (which is of the right length to han- 
 dle conveniently), then I take a heat, and with a ful- 
 ler let in about 7-8 inch to i inch from each end. I 
 next draw down the center to nearly the right thick- 
 
212 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 ness, bend the ends nearly to a square angle, and set 
 down with the hammer, and make the ends or cor- 
 ners square. I then take a chisel and cut in about 
 lys inch or i inch from one edge, for the jaw, leav- 
 ing this for the thickest part of the clasp. I then set 
 
 Yig, 185— Making a Cant-Hobk. Showing Method of making Shoulder. 
 
 the remainder down with the set-hammer. When 
 both ends are down, I draw to the right length, turn 
 and bend to fit the handle. 
 
 For the hook, I use 7-8-inch by ^-inch steel, 14 
 inches long. At the end where the hole is, I upset 
 
 Fig. 186— Showing Method of Setting the Draw. 
 
 to make a shoulder, as shown in Fig. 185 of the illus- 
 trations, which prevents the hook from cutting away 
 the soft iron of the clasp, and prevents the point of 
 the hook from striking the pick. 
 
 I give 4 7-8 inches draw as shown by the dotted 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 213 
 
 Vmes A C, Fig. 185, and to get this exactly every 
 time, I make the tool shown in Fig. 186. In mak- 
 ing it I take a bar, i foot 6 inches long, i3^ inches 
 by }^-inch, and bend it 13 inches from A to D. At 
 
 Fig. 187 — Screw Box. 
 
 B, Fig. 186, I weld on apiece of iron, 6 inches long by 
 ^-inch, with the edge to the D bar, and previously 
 bent to the right shape. I then make the piece B, 
 Fig. 186, true on the face (along C) with the square 
 D. I next measure off from D \ 7-8 inches to F, and 
 here set a 7-16-inch pin. I make the hook bend and 
 lay as shown in the illustration, Fig. 186, being care- 
 ful to have the hook true 2X B D. I file to a point 
 from the inside of the point. For the bands, the 
 
 Fig. 188— The Knife. 
 
 first is of i-inch band iron, the two next are of i >^ 
 inch, and the toe bands are of 2-inch band iron. 
 This pick is of 7-8-inch square steel, 10 inches long. 
 —By W. W. S. 
 
214 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 Making Screw Boxes for Cutting Out Wooden 
 
 Screws. 
 
 To make wooden screws by my plan, first take a 
 square piece of steel and with a three-cornered file 
 make the thread on all four corners of the steel for 
 about two inches. When this is done you will have 
 a tap as seen in Fig. 187. To make the screw box 
 
 Fig. 189— The Tap. 
 
 as shown in Fig. 188, turn a piece of word (apple 
 wood is the best), with two handles, and bore a hole 
 in the center to the size of the tap with the thread 
 off. Then cut a thread in it with the tap and cut 
 away the wood at one side to admit the knife. This 
 is made as in Fig. 189 with two screws in it, one in 
 the center and the other set. Put the knife in the 
 
 Fig. 1 90- Piece of Wood used to Secure the Knife in its Place and Admit 
 
 the Tap. 
 
 box SO it will match the thread, and screw in over 
 it a piece of wood one-quarter of an inch thick 
 with a hole in it the size of the tap with the 
 thread on, as represented in Fig. 190. The box is 
 then complete — By H. A. S. 
 
BLACKSMITIIING. 
 
 Mending a Square. 
 
 In this communication I will tell your readers how 
 to mend a square. Very often a good steel square 
 is rendered useless by having the foot or short end 
 broken off, as in Fig. 191 of the accompanying illus- 
 trations. I then work a piece of good iron into the 
 
 H 
 
 i- I I I I I I I I I I I I M 
 
 Fig. 191— Showing the Square and the Piece used in Mending. 
 
 shape shown at A, in Fig. 191, and taking a hack saw, 
 I cut a notch in each piece in which the piece A will 
 fit tightly. I have a square at hand to ensure ac- 
 curacy, and then having my coal well charred, I take 
 good clean brass and lay it on. When it begins to 
 get hot I put on borax powdered fine — I can't braze 
 much without borax. When the brass is all melted 
 it is removed from the fire, allowed to cool, and 
 
2l6 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 when it is cool the surplus brass and iron are ground 
 off, and the square will then be as good as ever. 
 Copper is about as good as brass to braze with., 
 
 W 1 , 
 
 Fig. 192— Showing the Square as Mended. 
 
 Fig. 192 shows the square when finished. — By T 
 W.J. 
 
 Stand for Carriage Bolts. 
 
 From an old buggy shaft, three cheese boxes and 
 four strips of wood I made a very handy stand for 
 carriage and tire bolts, the general appearance of 
 which is afforded by the inclosed sketch, Fig. 193. 
 In the center of each box I nailed a square block. 
 I put partitions on two sides, and also two partitions 
 crossways, in order to make six different sized boxes 
 for different sized bolts. I bored a hole through 
 the center and slipped the box down over the shaft. 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 217 
 
 I fastened it both above and below by nails through 
 the shaft. On the outside surface of the boxes I 
 fastened four strips, using ordinary felloe strips for 
 the purpose, placing them equidistant. Their pur- 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 I I 
 
 I. 
 
 Fig. 193— Stand for Carriage Bolts. 
 
 pose was to keep the boxes steady. Below and on 
 top I fastened two blocks with holes (bushed) in 
 which the pointed ends of the shaft turn. The de- 
 vice stands in the corner of the shop and is very 
 handy, inasmuch as it easily turns round. Each 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 compartment in the box is marked on the outside in 
 plain figures, thus indicating the size of bolt that it 
 contains. — By F. D. F. 
 
 An Improved Crane and Swage Block. 
 
 In the line of cranes I have something differing 
 from the usual style. It is new, I think, and cer- 
 tainly very good. The engraving, Fig. 194, will ex- 
 
 Fig. 194 — Improved Crane. 
 
 plain it. It can be attached to a post in the most 
 convenient position. Mine is hung in thimbles budt 
 
BLACKSMITHING. ^tg 
 
 in the front of the forge chimney. Next in order 
 shall be the swage block. Of all the much abused 
 tools in a smith's shop, I think the greatest quantity 
 of curses have been bestowed on that patient and 
 unoffending tool. I have known the English lan- 
 guage riddled, picked and culled for epithets with 
 the strongest adjectives to hurl at this useful tool. 
 You can hear some of them any time by walking 
 across the shop and stubbing your toe against it 
 as it lays on the floor, and you need not be afraid 
 of hurting it (the swage block I mean). Now, as 
 I consigned mine to the scrap heap many years 
 ago, I will describe a substitute. Get a cast-iron 
 cone mandril, 7 inch diameter at the top and 10 inch 
 at the bottom, with an outside flange at the bottom 
 to form a base, and a strong inside one at the top, 
 having a 4-inch hole in the top, into which cast or 
 wrought iron collets and swages can be fitted for 
 every kind of work, including farmers' and other 
 tools. The cone can be made the height of the 
 anvil and forge, so as to be right for the crane to 
 swing to as easy as the anvil. — By Iron Jack. 
 
 A Cheap Crane for Blacksmiths. 
 
 The accompanying sketch. Fig. 195, of a cheap 
 crane for blacksmiths needs but little explanation, for 
 any practical man will understand it at a glance. B 
 is a round pole with a band on each end and a gud- 
 geon and mortise to receive the bar C, which is 30 
 
2 20 
 
 BLACKSMITHlNG. 
 
 inches x ^ inch. At A A make holes and put in 
 rough pins. Then a part, B, is ^-round iron, with 
 
 Fig. 195 — Cheap Crane, 
 
 nuts at the top and joint at the bottom. Fisa. small 
 sheave, with chain to hold your work, and as you 
 turn your work in the fire or on the anvil it revolves. 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 221 
 
 I am usine one of these cranes, and have had eight 
 hundred pounds on it. In every case it answers well. 
 — By Southern Blacksmith. 
 
 Repairing an Auger. 
 
 I will tell your readers my way of putting a screw 
 in an auger. I take the old auger and file a notch in 
 it where the old screw was broken off. I do this 
 work with the edge of the file, making the notch no 
 wider than the old screw was. I then take a 3-square 
 
 Fig. 196— Repairing an Auger. Showing Notch and Piece to be Fitted 
 
 into it. 
 
 taper file and file the notch wider until it appears as 
 2X A in the accompanying illustration, Fig. 196. I 
 next take a small piece of steel, forge out the size 
 desired for the screw, file the piece " dovetailing," 
 
222 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 as shown at B, and then slip it sidewise into the 
 auger. It is put in so it can be driven rather snug. 
 When it is fitted it must be brazed. 
 
 Then, commencing inside next to the lip, I file 
 with a 3-square file, and boring the thread half way 
 around, I then commence at the other lip and file a 
 double thread, keeping the two threads side by side 
 and even with each other, by fitting first one a little 
 and then the other about as much, and so on. By 
 
 Fig. 197— A Clamp for Holding Countersunk Bolts. 
 
 this means they can be kept true. An auger re- 
 paired in this way is just as good as new. It does 
 not pay to mend small ones in this way, but it is a 
 good plan for large augers, for the operation is sim- 
 ple and requires but a short time. — By Ernest. 
 
 A Clamp for Holding Countersunk Boltheads. 
 
 I enclose an illustration. Fig. 197, of a clamp that I 
 use in holding countersunk boltheads, while remov- 
 ing the taps from the bolts on spring wagon and 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 223 
 
 buggy felloes. There is no patent on it and it is 
 quickly put on and taken off. It is made of 7-16 
 inch horseshoe bar with three holes, and has a T 
 headed bolt with threads to tighten. The points 
 hook over the felloe and the point of the bolt, which 
 should be tapering at the point, so it will tighten 
 against the bolt without coming in contact with the 
 tire. I have seen different devices for the purpose 
 but like this the best. It should be made from four 
 to five inches long. It will answer the same purpose 
 for a large wheel by making it larger and stronger. 
 ^By W. E. S. 
 
 A Handy Machine for a Blacksmith. 
 
 A useful machine for any blacksmith is made as 
 follows : Take a piece of lumber i 5^ x 8 and 6 feet 
 long, cut a hole in the middle 2 feet from the end, 
 the dimensions of the hole being 2 x 14, take two 
 cog wheels from some old fan mill, bolt journal box- 
 es for the crank wheel down to the bench on each 
 side of the slot and make an emery wheel mandrel 
 for the small wheel to work on. The mandrel should 
 be of ^-inch iron 12 inches long. Plug up the hole 
 in the small wheel and bore a hole for the mandrel, 
 having the mandrel square to avoid turning in the 
 wheel, then weld on a collar. If you have no lathe 
 you can true it up with the hammer and file. Next 
 cut a good screw on the end and put your collar on 
 the end, which should be about 2 inches, and put on 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 a small emery wheel ^ inch thick and 8 or lo inches 
 in diameter. But first put on a washer of thick 
 leather, also another one against the wheel, screw the 
 tap up tight and if it does not turn true you can trim 
 your leather washer down on one edge and by this 
 means get it perfectly true. On the other end of the 
 bench you can attach a good pair of hand shears. 
 For sharpening drills, cold chisels, and a variety of 
 other work, this machine has no equal. — Bj/ J. M. 
 Wright. 
 
 A Clamp for Framework. 
 
 The accompanying illustration. Fig. 198, represents 
 a hand clamp for drawing together framework, such 
 as wagon beds, wheelbarrows, etc. 
 
 It is made as follows : 
 
 The bar A is of narrow tooth steel which will not 
 bend so easily as iron. It should be five feet long 
 by I X ^ inch. ^ is a piece of iron which should 
 
 Fig. 198 — A Clamp for Framework. 
 
 be 3 inches high by wide, welded to the end and 
 with a ^-inch hole having good threads in it. C is 
 a screw to fit the same. It is made one foot long 
 with a crank B which is attached to the end. D is 
 ^ slidQ to fit oyer^, and it should have 3 inches 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 225 
 
 above it a hole % inch deep to allow the screw C to 
 get a good bearing. is made the same as A ex- 
 cept that it has a shoulder back of it to keep it from 
 leaning too far back, and a set screw G, at the side, 
 to hold it stationary. I use this clamp almost every 
 day, and I never saw or heard of one just like it. — By 
 V. D. B. 
 
 A Tool for Holding Bolts. 
 
 I send a sketch, Fig. 199, of a tool for holding 
 loose bolts while' screwing nuts off. To make it, 
 take a piece of ^-inch round iron of suitable length, 
 draw down oval and tapering about 5 inches, and about 
 7 inches from the pointed end drive in a piece of steel, 
 
 Fig. 199— A Tool for Holding Loose Bolts. 
 
 wedge-shaped, weld securely and sharpen like a 
 chisel ; one inch is long enough for this. Then five 
 inches from the end turn it down at right angles, 
 edgewise, and then curl to the left as shown in the il- 
 lustration. This is better than all the patented tools 
 for this purpose. — By Edwin Cliftw. 
 
226 
 
 BLACKSMITIIING. 
 
 A Hint About Callipers. 
 
 Let me give some of your young readers a hint 
 how to chamfer off the ends of their callipers from 
 the outside and slightly round them across as in Fig. 
 200, and not make them rounding as in Fig. 201, 
 
 Fig. 200— Right way to Shape Fig. 201— Wrong way to Shape 
 Calliper Ends. Calliper Ends. 
 
 The outer points will always touch at the same point 
 no matter what the diameter of the work. If round- 
 ing they will touch, for small work, at A, A, and for 
 large work at B, B. — By Shafting. 
 
 Vise Attachment. 
 
 I inclose a paper model of a device that I am using 
 for holding beveled edge iron for filing. It is also 
 useful for chamfering flat iron. In use it is to be 
 screwed in a large vise. The spring shown in the cut, 
 Fig. 202, throws the jaws apart when the vise is re- 
 leased. I think many of your readers will find this 
 idea useful, and as it is one that every blacksmith can 
 
ELACKSMITIIING. 
 
 227 
 
 put into practical operation, I commend it to the at- 
 ention of my fellow craftsmen. — By E. M. B. 
 
 Note. — The accompanying engraving has been 
 made from the paper model inclosed in our corres- 
 
 Fig. 202— Vise Attachment. 
 
 pondent's letter, and, we believe, correctly represents 
 his idea. As he did not show how the spring was 
 attached, or in what form it was to be made, we have 
 nothing to govern us in this particular. — Ed. 
 
 Bolt Set 
 
 We have been using a tool in this community for 
 a long time, which can be applied to wheels very 
 
 II iiiiiii 
 
 Fig. 203— Bolt Set. 
 
 quickly. Any blacksmith who can make a pair of 
 tongs can produce it. It is made of good steel, A in 
 
228 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 the engraving being chisel-pointed and hardened, so 
 that it can be set into the head of boh, when it is 
 necessary, by a sHght rap with the hammer. — By W. 
 H.S. 
 
 A Home-Made Lathe. 
 
 The accompanying drawings represent a turning 
 lathe that I have been using for some time and find 
 very convenient, not only in turning, but also in 
 drilling small holes. Fig. 204 is a side view of the 
 head stock, and Figs. 205 and 206 show the front 
 and back ends of Fig. 204. In beginning to make 
 
 A a 6 
 
 Fig. 204 — Side View of the Head Stock. 
 
 the lathe, I take a piece of flat iron 12 inches long, 
 3 inches wide and inch thick, and cut 3 inches 
 at each end, tapering down to inches, as shown 
 at a, Fig. 206. I then turn 3 inches of the same 
 ends up at right angles, as at a, Fig. 204, and drill 
 
BLACKSMiTHlNG. 
 
 two ^-inch holes at b to bolt the head stock. The 
 head stock is braced at c to prevent the springing of 
 
 Fig. 205— Front End of the Head Stock. 
 
 the back end of the frame, as all the end pressure 
 comes on that end. I next drill a ^-inch hole 
 throuo-h the back end and 2^ inches from the bot- 
 
 Fig. 206— Back End of the Headstock. 
 
 tom, a, as shown in Fig. 206 at b, and fit to ^ a piece 
 of round iron 13^ inches long, with one end coun- 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 tersunk as in Fig. 207 at a. This is to fit the spindle 
 and take up the wear. To prevent this piece from 
 coming out, I double a piece over the end at a, Fig. 
 
 a 
 
 Fig. 207 — Showing the Piece to be Attached to the Spindle. 
 
 205. This piece is hy i}^ inches, with a ^-inch 
 hole, as shown at a, Fig. 208. It has a ^-inch set 
 screw at 3. This piece goes over the end a, Fig. 206, 
 and the piece shown in Fig. 207 goes through the 
 ^-inch hole, and the set screw bears on the head 
 stock. By turning up the set-screw the piece, Fig. 
 207, can be clamped at any place desired, thus form- 
 ing the bearing for that end. The front end has 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 Fig. 208— Showing the Piece used to Secure in Position the Part Shown 
 
 in Fig. 207. 
 
 a place cut out at the center, by i inch, to re- 
 ceive the boxes. The edges at a, Fig. 205, are 
 beveled to a V, so the two boxes will slide down and 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 231 
 
 fit tightly. The boxes are x x inch. 
 With the ends cut out to fit the V shown in Fig. 205 
 
 TOP OF BOX 
 
 O 
 
 O CAPO 
 
 o 
 
 > 
 
 BOXES 
 
 Fig. 209— Showing the Boxes and Plate. 
 
 at a, I next drill in each prong at d, cut a thread and 
 fit a bolt to clamp the boxes. C, in Fig. 209, is the 
 
 WOOD 
 
 Fig. 210— The Spindle, 
 
 plate that goes over the boxes. The bolts go through 
 the plate into d, Fig. 205. I put the boxes in, placing a 
 
232 
 
 BLACKSMITH ING. 
 
 Fig. 211— The Face Plate. 
 
BLACKSMltHlNG. 
 
 ^33 
 
 thin piece of pasteboard between them, and then 
 clamp them tightly and drill a ^-inch hole through 
 
 A ^ 
 
 Fig. 212— Side View of the Tail Stock, 
 
 them at C. Composition is the best material for the 
 boxes. 
 
 The spindle must be turned, for it could not be 
 filed true enough to run well. Fig. 210 repre- 
 sents the shape. The end a should fit into Fig. 207 
 
 Fig. 213— End View of the Tail Stock. 
 
 at a. The bearing at the other end is at 5, ^ inch 
 in diameter, c is turned down a Httle smaller, and a 
 
SLACKSMITHING. 
 
 thread cut on it so as to screw on the face plate. 
 The spur center goes into the spindle with a taper. 
 You can shrink a flange on the spindle at d, and bolt 
 the pulley to that. The face plate needs no descrip- 
 tion. A glance at Fig. 211 will give anyone a clear 
 idea of it. It might be 5 inches in diameter, and it 
 would answer well enough if it were 3 inches only. 
 The tail stock is of the same dimensions of the head 
 stock, that is, 3 inches wide, 6 inches long, and 3 
 
 O 
 o 
 
 Y\g, 214— Back End of the Tail Stock. 
 
 inches high. Fig. 212 is a side view of the tail stock; 
 Figs. 213 and 214, end views; in Fig. 215 is shown 
 a piece 13^ inches by 9 inches by inch thick, with 
 inches of both ends turned at right angles to a. 
 This goes over the ends of Fig. 212 at ^. 
 
 To clamp the arbor, drill a ^-inch hole in both 
 ends of Figs. 213 and 214, 3 >^ inches in front of a, 
 and going also through the ends of the piece shown 
 in Fig. 216 at b. This hole must match the holes m 
 
BLACKSMITIIlNG. :235 
 s. 213 and 114. The purpose of the arrangement 
 
236 
 
 blacksmithInG. 
 
 out of the lathe. The set-screw shown in Fig. 215 
 bears on A, Fig. 212, When the screw is turned, 
 it will keep the arbor from slipping. Fig. 214 has a 
 ^-inch hole with a thread cut in it. There must be 
 
 Fig. 217 — Showing the Center. 
 
 another hole % inch in diameter, as shown in the 
 engraving. The arbor is 9 inches long, ^ inch in 
 diameter, with one-fourth of one end turned down to 
 y2 inch diameter, as shown in Fig. 219. The center 
 goes in the end with a taper as shown in Fig. 217. 
 The center has a place left square to receive a wrench 
 in order to take it out of the arbor. Fig. 218 is a 
 
 Fig. 218 — Showing the Piece Riveted to the Arbor. 
 
 piece 2^ X i^^ inches with three holes in it, one ^ 
 inch, one 2/^ inch, and the other inch. These 
 holes should correspond with the three holes in Fig. 
 214. Fig. 218 is riveted to the arbor, which is 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 237 
 
 worked with a screw. The guide-pin is fastened to 
 
 the plate and goes through the smallest hole in the 
 
238 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 piece Fig. 214. Fig. 220 is a hand wheel which fits 
 on to a very tight nut. To fasten it, there must be 
 work in the plate, so that the screw can be turned in 
 and out. In turning the screw so, you carry the 
 arbor with it. The rest is a flat piece of iron 
 inch thick, 8 inches long and 3 inches wide, with 2 
 
 Fig. 220— The Hand Wheel, 
 
 inches of one end bent at right angles. There must 
 be two holes near the end, so a piece of wood can be 
 bolted on for turning different lengths. To fasten 
 the rest to the bed cut a hole the size of the bolt, 4 
 inches long, in the bottom of the rest to let it slide 
 to and from the work. — By H. A. Seavey. ' 
 
CHAPTER VIIL 
 
 Blacksmiths' Shears. 
 
 I enclose a sketch, Fig. 221, of a pair of shears to 
 be used in the square hole of the anvil. They are 
 very useful and cheap. Any blacksmith can make 
 them. Use good steel and make the blades eight 
 inches long, measuring from the rivet. Make the 
 
 Fig. 221 — Blacksmiths' Shears. 
 
 short blade with a crook, as shown in the illustration, 
 to go in the anvil, and have the long blade extend 
 back about two and a half feet to serve as a handle. 
 With these shears I can cut quarter-inch iron with 
 ease and cut steel when it is hot. — By A. J. T. 
 
 Shear for Cutting Round and Square Rods. 
 I would like to give a description of a shear for 
 cutting round and square iron constructed by me. 
 The inclosed sketch, Fig. 222, is an attempt to rep- 
 resent it. The lower member of the shear is a bar 
 
240 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 an inch thick, three inches wide and fourteen inches 
 long, and is furnished with a steel face at that part 
 where the cutting is done. The upper member is of 
 the same general description, except that it is seven- 
 teen inches long. The lower blade is fastened to the 
 bench at the back part by cleats, as shown in the 
 drawing. A guide for the upper blade, just wide 
 
 Fig. 222 — Shear for Cutting Round and Square Rods. 
 
 enough in the opening to allow of easy play, is made 
 to serve a like purpose for the front part. The han- 
 dle of the shear is hinged to the lower blade, and is 
 connected also with the upper one by the link shown 
 in the sketch. The handle is five feet long and is 
 one by three inches in size down to a taper. Three 
 holes are provided in it for connecting the link 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 24I 
 
 attached to the upper blade, thus opening the shear 
 more or less as may be required. With this shear I 
 can cut round or square iron up to seven-eighths in 
 size. — By Southern Blacksmith. 
 
 Cheap Shears for Blacksmiths' Use. 
 
 1 inclose a sketch, Fig. 223, of a cheap shears for 
 smiths' use, and submit the following directions for 
 
 E 
 
 Fig. 223 — Cheap Shears for Blacksmiths. 
 
 making : The under jaw, D, should be 10 inches long, 
 3 inches wide and i inch thick. The upper jaw must 
 be 13 inches long, but otherwise the same as the 
 lower jaw, except where it couples with the latter. 
 Then it must be forged by the dotted lines. The 
 coupling at E is made with a ^-inch cast-steel bolt, 
 which takes a brace on each side of the shears, 
 
242 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 this brace taking one half-inch bolt at the foot 
 through the bench. The braces at the other end 
 take two bolts through the bench. That next to the 
 lower jaw takes two half-inch rivets through the same 
 and a ^-inch cast-steel bolt at the top through the 
 the cam. The upper jaw is brought up by two strips 
 of sole leather connected to the cam A by two bolts. 
 The two braces, (only one of which is shown in 
 the cut), are ^-inch round and take a ^ bolt at the 
 foot. The material for jaws should be 5/8 x 3 inch 
 Swede's iron with the same amount of cast steel or 
 English blister laid on the cutting side, and when 
 finished should have just bevel enough to give a good 
 edge. E and B are made of Swede's iron ^ x 3 
 inches. The cam, A, is the same thickness as the jaw 
 and finished with i inch round for a lever 3 feet long. 
 The jaws should be brought to a low straw color in 
 tempering. The cam must be finished smooth and 
 the bearings kept well oiled. 
 
 Then you have a pair of shears at a nominal cost 
 that will last a lifetime and work better than most of 
 the shears in the market. It is a good plan to use a 
 guard with the shears ; let it bolt on to the bench, 
 rising ^/g of an inch above the edge of the lower pair, 
 and then run parallel with the jaw to the other end, 
 where it is secured by another bolt. The brace, B, 
 which rivets to lower jaw, must have an offset of one 
 inch to come flush with the inside of the jaw. — By 
 J. M. W. 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 Blacksmiths' Shears. 
 
 I send a sketch, Fig. 224, of shears made by my- 
 self. They are cheap and I have found them very 
 convenient. The engraving from my design re- 
 quires no explanation. A glance at it will be suffi- 
 cient for any smith who understands his trade. I 
 
 Fig. 224 — Blacksmith's Sliears. 
 
 will, however, give some of the dimensions. A is 
 I ^ round, B c^y^Y^ and C 6yi x ^ inch. The main 
 point in making is to get the edges to come together 
 as in the common shears. — By J.J. 
 
 Shears for the Anvil. 
 
 I send you a sketch, Fig. 225, of a very handy tool, 
 a pair of shears for the anvil. Any blacksmith that 
 understands his trade can make them, They are 
 
244 
 
 BLACKSMITIIING. 
 
 good for trimming cultivator shovels when they 
 have just been painted and they will take the place 
 of a helper on many jobs where striking is needed. 
 The cutting jaws are 4 inches long, 3 inches wide 
 
 Fig. 225 — Shears for the Anvil. 
 
 and ^ inch thick, and bevel to the edge and to the 
 back. One jaw has a square hole for a square 
 shoulder bolt. The handles are two feet long. I 
 use them on hot iron or steel and they cut sheet iron 
 co\d.—By G. W. P. 
 
CHAPTER IX. 
 
 EMERV WHEELS AND GRINDSTONES. 
 
 Emery Wheels. 
 
 I have polishing wheels in daily use^ and put the 
 emery on them with good glue. The way I employ 
 the glue is as follows : I heat it to the proper de- 
 gree, and then with a brush I cover from six to eight 
 inches of the wheel with it. Then I put the emery 
 on the covered part, and with a roller run over it so 
 as to pass the emery down into the glue. I then 
 apply the glue for another six or eight inches and 
 repeat the same operation. I keep on in this man- 
 ner until I get around the wheel. I then lay it away 
 for twenty-four hours to dry, after which time it is 
 ready for use. 
 
 In making emery wheels, nothing but the best 
 glue is satisfactory for use. Poor glue is worse 
 than nothing. Care must always be taken to keep 
 oil and grease of all kindsfrom gettingon the wheel. 
 I have had some trouble with wheels of this general 
 character, but I have always found the fault to be 
 poor glue or oil that squirted from the shafting on 
 the wheel. I make it a rule always to wash and 
 clean the wheels in warm water when I find them 
 
246 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 greasy, and then let them dry, and put the emery on 
 anew as above described. By following this plan I 
 have always met with good results. No glue, how- 
 ever good, will hold emery or other parts together 
 when the surfaces to^Avhich it is applied are oily or 
 greasy. — By H. R. H. 
 
 Making an Emery Wheel. 
 
 It will not pay to put emery on wooden wheels 
 because it flies off in pieces. I know this from ex- 
 perience. It is better to use felt that is made for 
 the purpose. I use felt about 4 inches wide and i 
 inch thick. I make a wooden wheel of about 12 
 inches diameter and 4 inches face and nail the felt 
 on it with shingle nails at intervals of inches. I 
 then drive the nails half way through the felt by 
 means of a punch, spread glue over the felt and roll 
 the wheel in emery. This makes a good wheel for 
 finishing off. — By " Shovels." 
 
 How to Make Small Polishing or Grinding Wheels. 
 
 Tlje general method of making small polishing or 
 grinding wheels is to glue together pieces of wood, 
 making a rough wheel, which, when dry, is put upon 
 a spindle or mandrel and turned to the required 
 shape. The periphery is covered with leather, 
 coated with glue and rolled in emery until a consid- 
 erable portion adheres to the glue-covered surface. 
 
 Wheels of this character will wear but a short 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 247 
 
 time before the coating process must be repeated to 
 form a new abrasive surface. They can scarcely be 
 called grinding-wheels, and are more properly 
 termed polishing wheels, and are used but very little 
 except to produce a polished or finished surface. 
 What are termed grinding-wheels, or " hard-wheels," 
 are formed of emery in combination with some plas- 
 tic mass that is preserved in moulds, in course of 
 time becoming very hard like a grindstone. 
 
 If the mechanic desires a small grinding-wheel of 
 this character, and cannot readily obtain one, he can 
 make a very good substitute himself. To do this, 
 procure a block of brass or cast iron, in which make 
 a recess of the same diameter, but a little deeper 
 than the desired thickness of the wheel. Make a hole 
 centrally to the diameter of the recess and extend- 
 ing through the block, corresponding in size to the 
 sptndle on which the wheel is to be used. In this 
 hole fit a strong bolt with one end threaded and a 
 stout head on the other end. On the threaded end 
 fit a nut. Make a thick washer that will fit pretty 
 tight on the bolt, and at the same time fill the recess 
 in the block. Make a follower of the same size that 
 will fit in the same manner. 
 
 The materials for the wheels are glue and good 
 emery. Make the glue thin, as for use on wood, and 
 thicken with emery, and keep hot to be worked. 
 When ready to make the wheels, oil the recess or 
 mould as well as the washer and follower. This 
 
248 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 W.II prevent the hot mass from adhering to these 
 parts. Put the washer at the bottom of the mould. 
 Insert the bolt in the hole with the head at the bot- 
 tom side of the block. Put in the hot glue and 
 emery, well mixed together, spread it evenly in the 
 mould, almost filling it. Put the follower on the 
 bolt, lettmg it enter the mould and rest upon the 
 glue and emery ; then put on the nut and screw it 
 down tight with a wrench. The mass is compressed 
 according to the force employed. 
 
 If the wheel be small and thin it will cool and 
 harden in a few minutes so that it can be removed. 
 Take off the nut and follower and drive out the bolt 
 and ,f the recess be properly made a blow with a 
 hammer on the bottom of the block will expel the 
 wheel and washer. 
 
 In place of a recess cut in a block of metal, a 
 ring may be used, care being taken to place it so 
 that the bolt will be central, to insure equal radius 
 on all sides. 
 
 Oiling the parts prevents the glue and emery from 
 sticking. The washer put in the bottom of the 
 mould facilitates the removal of the soft wheel, and 
 also tends to prevent it from injury while beinfr re- 
 moved. The wheels must be dried in a warm place 
 before being used, and must be kept away from 
 moisture. 
 
 Above the size of two or three inches it would be 
 hardly advisable to attempt making this kind of wheel. 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 249 
 
 Common shellac may be used in place of glue, but 
 the objections to its employment are the greater 
 cost, difficulty to mix with emery, and it is also more 
 difficult to put in the mould. It has the advantage 
 over the glue and emery wheel, inasmuch as it is 
 proof against moisture or water. For a small, cheap 
 wheel, and one that can be readily made, the one 
 made of glue and emery is preferable. — By W. B. 
 
 Making an Emery Wheel. 
 
 Having a few articles to polish I thought I would 
 make an emery wheel. After turning my truck and 
 fastening it to the arbor I tried several times to 
 glue the leather to the truck or wheel and failed. 
 The splice was what bothered me most. Looking 
 
 Fig. 226 — Making an Emery Wheel". 
 
 around for a way out of this difficulty, I came across 
 an old pair of woolen or felt boots such as are worn 
 by loggers. I took the leg of one of these boots, 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 cut off a ring the width of my truck, glued it on the 
 truck and turned it off as well as I could. I held a 
 hot iron over it until it was very smooth, and then 
 covered it with glue. I next heated emery as hot 
 as I thought necessary, spread it on a board and 
 rolled the truck in it and pounded it in. When it 
 was dry I gave it another coat and then another. 
 Three coats are enough, at least they were sufficient 
 for the wheel I am using. A glance at the accom- 
 panying engraving, Fig. 226, will give anyone a fair 
 idea of how the job should be done. — By H. A. 
 Seavey. 
 
 Something About Grindstones and Grinding Tools. 
 
 In the matter of the average grindstone, its use 
 and misuse, I would state that the result of my ob- 
 servation and experience is : 
 
 First — It is too small in diameter. Second — It is 
 too broad-faced. Third— It is not properly speed- 
 ed. Fourth — It is not properly cared for. Fifth — 
 It is not properly used. 
 
 Stones should be narrow-faced to secure a greater 
 proportion between that which is worn from its sur- 
 face by useful work and that which is removed by 
 the truing device. It is patent to every practical 
 mechanic that the portion of a stone most in use is a 
 very narrow line at each corner, and the reason for 
 this is plain when we consider that after a tool is 
 once properly shaped the workman will endeavor to 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 confine his grinding to the top or cutting-face of the 
 tool, leaving the sides and clearance angles intact, if 
 possible, and to do this, keeping in miiid the desired 
 cutting-lip, he must have recourse to the corners to 
 secure the proper inclination of the tool for that re- 
 sult. So it comes about that the corners are rapidly- 
 worn rounding. 
 
 It is a matter of experience that the faster a stone 
 runs the faster it does its work and the longer it re- 
 mains in working shape. But they are weak, and if 
 run too' rapidly, have an uncomfortable habit of dis- 
 integrating themselves. Water has to be used for 
 the two-fold purpose of keeping the tools cool, and 
 the stone clean and free from glaze, but water has a 
 decided tendency to disassociate itself from a stone 
 that capers around too lively. So we are compelled 
 to reduce the speed to the fastest possible, compati- 
 ble with safety and freedom from a shower bath. 
 Now, of all the inconsistencies that exist in modern 
 machine-shop practice, I think that the running of 
 the average grindstone is the most pronounced, be- 
 cause it has not the adjunct of a variable speed due 
 to the losses of diameter. 
 
 In regard to the choice, care and use of a stone, I 
 would discourse as follows : The desiderata in the 
 selection of a stone are, that it should cut fast, 
 should not glaze, and should remain true. To se- 
 cure the cutting and anti-glazing qualities — for they 
 are associated — a stone should be close and sharp- 
 
2^2 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 grained, and not too firmly cemented or hard. It 
 must be just soft enough to slowly abrade under the 
 mark ; such abrasion constantly brings new cutting 
 points into prominence, and prevents the lodgment 
 of the abraded particles of steel upon the stone, 
 which would finally result in glazing. For the 
 proper maintenance of its truth, it is essential that 
 the stone be homogeneous, as uneven hardness 
 mtist result in uneven wear. The condition of 
 homogeneity is one that cannot exist in a natural 
 stone, but ought reasonably to be expected in an' 
 artificial one, and I believe th?t the grindstone of 
 the future will be manufactured — not quarried. 
 
 To get the best results from a stone filling the 
 above requirements, it should be hung in a substan- 
 tial frame, properly balanced, supplied with clea?i 
 water, never allowed to stand immersed, because 
 that softens locally and thus throws it out of bal- 
 ance. Therefore, I say that the average stone is 
 not properly cared for and used, because these con- 
 ditions for well-being are rarely met. 
 
 For ordinary tool-grinding, I would recommend 
 that the " front " side of the stone be used, not be- 
 cause better work can be done there ; but be- 
 cause it can usually be done there faster ; and that 
 it be fitted with an adjustable narrow-edged rest, 
 used close to the stone, and extending around the 
 sides toward the center about two inches. Such a 
 rest enables one to incline his tool in any possible 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 direction, and hold it firmly with adequate pressure, 
 while running small risk of the dreaded " dig." 
 
 In- all sorts of tool-grinding, my experience tells 
 me that the cutting edge of a tool should always be 
 toward the approaching side of the stone or wheel. 
 — Ben Adriance, in American Machinist. 
 
 Hanging a Grindstone. 
 
 To hang a grindstone on its axle so as to keep it 
 from wabbling from side to side requires great skill. 
 The hole should be at least three-eighths or one- 
 half inch larger than the axle and both axle and hole 
 square. Then make double wedges for each of the 
 four sides of the square, all alike and thin enough 
 so that one wedge from each side will reach clear 
 through the hole. Drive the wedges from each side. 
 If the hole through the stone is true the wedges will 
 tighten the stone true. If the hole is not at right 
 angles to the plan'^ of the stone it must be made so 
 or the wedge must be altered in the taper to meet 
 the irregularity of the hole. 
 
 Device for Fastening a Grindstone. 
 
 The device, a sketch of which I send you here- 
 with, is very simple and effective for fastening a 
 grindstone. The illustration. Fig. 227, shows the 
 method so well that only a brief description appears 
 to be necessary. Almost any mechanic will see at a 
 
254 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 glance that the tightening of the screws or bohs 
 (either can -be used, according to the size of the 
 
 Fig. 227— Device for Fastening a Grindstone, as described by " H. G, S." 
 
 grindstone), as shown in the engraving, cannot fail 
 to hold the stone securely upon the shaft. — By H. G. 
 S. 
 
 Note. — It was not thought necessary to show the 
 device of our correspondent attached to the grind- 
 stone frame, because that is a simple matter which 
 probably every blacksmith or wheelwright under- 
 stands thoroughly. The stone can be set true by 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 loosening or tightening the opposite screws or bolts. 
 —Ed. 
 
 Mounting a Grindstone. 
 
 I send you some illustrations representing a con- 
 venient method of mounting a grindstone. The 
 
 Fig. 228— Mounting a Grindstone. End View of the Mounting Flange. 
 
 casting will cost about 50 cents for a 30-inch stone. 
 Anyone can make the pattern and core box. A in 
 Fig. 228 of the engraving annexed, is a cast-iron 
 flange, 3^ are set-screws tapped into the flange 
 and impinging on the square bar, which is turned up 
 
256 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 with gudgeons, and will constitute the axis of the 
 grindstone. Top holes corresponding to those 
 
 Fig. 229 — Sectional View of the Flange. 
 
 marked C in the flange are drilled through the stone 
 and a flange like A is bolted to each side of the 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 Stone. Fig. 229 is a sectional view of the flange. 
 By slacking and setting the screws b the stone can 
 be made true to a hair. — By]. H. S. 
 
 How to Make a Polishing Machine. 
 
 An emery wheel is a good thing for every smith 
 to have about his shop, for burnishing axles, chisels, 
 knives, and a thousand things that should be kept 
 bright. But owing to the high price of wheels, 
 together with the fact that few shops have any steam 
 or water power to run them, but very few are used. 
 
 Now any smith can get up a rig for polishing that 
 will answer every purpose and cost very little. First 
 make a driving wheel, as shown in the accompanying 
 illustration. Fig. 230, 2^ feet in diameter by 4 to 6 
 inches in thickness. It can be made with arms, or 
 solid, by nailing together several thicknesses of 
 boards. Hang it in a frame as you would a grind- 
 stone. Put upon one end of the crank a balance 
 wheel of not less than 50 lbs. weight and attach the 
 other end to the foot piece by a rod ; or, what is 
 better, a piece of hard wood, which will not wear on 
 the crank. Bolt two pieces of hardwood board, 4 x 
 8 and i inch in thickness, upon the inside of the 
 frame. Cut a slot at the wide end to go astride of 
 the crank ; also, one at the narrow end to receive the 
 spindle of the emery wheel. The emery wheel 
 should be some 10 or 12 inches in diameter, by 3 
 inches in thickness, with a small pulley bolted upon 
 
258 
 
 BLACKSMITHING. 
 
 one side for the belt. Now, put on the beU, apply 
 the foot power, and turn the emery wheel as true as 
 possible with a sharp tool. Then cover it with sole 
 leather. The leather should be well soaked in hot 
 
 Fig. 230 — A Polishing Machine. 
 
 water and pegged on wet ; one row of pegs at the 
 edges, one inch apart, will be sufficient. After the 
 leather is put on, fix a rest and true it again as 
 before. 
 
 To emery the wheel, make a box 2^ feet long 
 
BLACKSMITHING. 250 
 •I**** •••••••••»... 
 
 and a little w5€k^Ti^afi:tiie.^ird^lfib which to put the 
 emery. After putting on a coat of thin glue with a 
 brush, roll the wheel in the box and the coating is 
 done at once. It should stand a few hours before 
 using. Whenever the wheel gets smooth and doesn't 
 cut, apply another coating as before. After several 
 coatings have been put on the old emery should be 
 removed, which can be done by soaking in hot water 
 and scraping with a knife or piece of glass. It is a 
 good thing to have two vi heels, one for coarse and 
 the other for fine emery. I have a rig which I made 
 in this way ten years ago and it works like a charm. 
 The expense of running it is next to nothing : try it 
 and you will not be without one. — By W. H. Ball. 
 
 END OF VOL. II. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Auger, to repair igg, 221 
 
 Blacksmiths' shears 239 
 
 Bolt clippers. . . 59, 62, 64, 68, 74, 76 
 
 Bolt clipper, to make 207 
 
 Bolt cutter 65 
 
 Bolt holder 210 
 
 Bolt set 227 
 
 Bolt trimmer, to make 204 
 
 Bolts, stand for 216 
 
 Callipers, hint about 226 
 
 Candle holder, to make 202 
 
 Cant hook 211 
 
 Cheap shears for blacksmiths. . 241 
 
 Chisel and chisel-shaped tools, 78 
 
 Chisel, chipping lor 
 
 Chisel, cow mouth 94 
 
 Chisel, flat 79 
 
 Chisels, broad 81 
 
 Chisels (cold), how to make. . . 105 
 
 Chisels (cold), to forge 108 
 
 Chisels, errors in grinding. . . .86, 87 
 
 Chisels for brass 83 
 
 Chisels, improper shapes 88 
 
 Chisels, to grind 82 
 
 Clamp for countersinks 222 
 
 Clamp for frame work 224 
 
 Clincher, to make 209 
 
 Crane 218, 219 
 
 Dies, attachment for 181 
 
 Drifts and drifting 132 
 
 Drill and counter sink 121 
 
 Drill, Chinese 119 
 
 Drill for bench 112 
 
 Drill, handy 122 
 
 Drill, home-made 124 
 
 Drill press, simple 116 
 
 Drill press, to make 109 
 
 Drill (small), to make 116 
 
 Drills, hints about 128 
 
 Drills, remedy for squeaking.. 118 
 
 Drills (stone), to make 127 
 
 Drilling a chilled mold board. 117 
 
 Drilling glass n8 
 
 Drilling, holding bars in 117 
 
 Drilling in blacksmith shop. . . 110 
 
 Emery wheels 245 
 
 Emery wheel, making an. . .246, 249 
 
 Fullering, principles of 137 
 
 Grinding wheels, how to make 246 
 Grinding tools, something 
 
 about 250 
 
 Grindstone, device for fasten- 
 ing 253 
 
 Grindstone, hanging a 253 
 
 Grindstone, mounting 255 
 
 Grindstones, something about 250 
 
 Hanging a grindstone 253 
 
 Hardy, to make 209 
 
 Iron 3, 13 
 
 Iron, crystallization of 11 
 
 Iron, strength of 9 
 
 Iron, to cold hammer 54 
 
 Iron, to test 35 
 
 Iron work (wrought) 19 
 
 Lathe, home-made . 228 
 
 Machine for blacksmith 223 
 
 Making an emery wheel. . .246, 249 
 
 Mounting a grindstone 255 
 
 Nippers, cut 62 
 
 Polishing machine, how to 
 
 make 257 
 
 Polishing wheels, how to make 246 
 
262 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Reamer, a cheap i75 
 
 Rivet clipper 59, 69, 71, 76 
 
 Rivets, tool to make 72, 73 
 
 Screw boxes, to make 214 
 
 Screw stock dies, attachment 
 
 for 181 
 
 Shears, blacksmiths' 239 
 
 Shears, cheap 241 
 
 Shear for cutting round and 
 
 square rods 239 
 
 Shears for the anvil 243 
 
 Spike-bar, to make... 206 
 
 Spring clips, to make 189 
 
 Square, to mend 215 
 
 Square (tony), to make 206 
 
 Steel 3. 13 
 
 Steel and iron, to upset 21 
 
 Steel (burnt), to restore 54 
 
 Steel, different kinds of 53 
 
 Stesl-hardening 46 
 
 Steel, strength of 9 
 
 Steel, to heat 30 
 
 Steel, to select 53 
 
 Steel, to test 35 
 
 Steels, treatment of 41. 43 
 
 Steel, work on 45 
 
 Swage block 146. 218 
 
 Swage block, stand for 151 
 
 Swages 141 
 
 Swaging, rules for i49 
 
 Vise attachment. 226 
 
 Vise-jaws. — .'. 188 
 
 Vise, to mend 1 74 
 
 Tools (edge), principles on 
 
 which they operate 153 
 
 Tool for holding bolts 225 
 
 Tools for holding bolts in a 
 
 vise 193 
 
 Tools, for lathe, shape of 176 
 
 Tool for making dash heels. . . 195 
 Tool for making single tree 
 
 clips 194 
 
 Tool for pulling on felloes. . . 208 
 Tool for putting yokes on 
 
 clips 202 
 
 Tool for wagon clips.... 185 
 
 Tool, handy 187 
 
 Tool (handy) for marking joints 189 
 Tool (handy) for finishing 
 
 seat rails 201 
 
 Tools, hints on care of I54 
 
 Tool, labor-saving 205 
 
 Tools, names of ,»••• ^57 
 
 Tools, screw threading 183 
 
 Wheels, emery 245 
 
 Wrenches I57 
 
 Wrench (monkey), attachment 
 
 for 200 
 
Patent Adjus table "DUPLEr ^ Die Stock. 
 
 iiiiiiiiiii iifciii i ii ^im.,L;.uiii r . fflmm i»,iii !T ii ' iUn f iiii 'i i i n T i i .m TBr i i inikJii i ia iiitfflnTfl 
 
 Warranted to do MORE 
 and BETTER work than 
 any other Die made. 
 
 lllilllBiliiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiliiillllllillliiilliiiliililiil^^ 
 
 1 SCREW 
 
 CUTTING ■ 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ■jT'i r.i,r,n,.!?nir.nni 
 
 No wrenches or screw 
 driver for any adjust, 
 ment. Dies easily sharp- 
 ened on a grindstone. 
 
 HART MANF'G CO., Cleveland, Ohio. 
 
 PRACTICAL Blacksmith I NG 
 
 Is a new book compiled from the practiral articles which have appeared from time t» time 
 during the last few years in the columns of "The Blacksmith and Wheelwkight. " 
 
 Volume I. relates to Ancient BlacksniitlllUj;, and gives illustrations 
 with descriptions of some ancient tools; te. Is how Hammers Sbouldl Be IWtade; 
 givts Plans of BlaeksniitllS' Sliops, and a variety of plans of Korges, 
 and the best way to build CllimneyS. Illustrations and descriptions of a great variety of 
 Tongs, Hammers, Punches and Cold Chisels are given. 
 
 Two prize articles on Blacksmiths' XoolS, which have appeared in " The 
 Blacksmith and Wheelwright," are printed in full. 
 
 There are five chapters in the book, each complete in itself. 
 
 Chapter I. treats of Ancient and Iflodern Hammers. Chapter II. 
 Ancient Tools. Chapter III. Chimneys, Korges, JPires, Shop 
 Plans, Work Benches, etc. Chapter IV. Anvils and Anvil Tools. 
 Chapter V. Blacksmiths' Tools. 
 
 There is no book like it in the language: in fact, a work on blacksmithing has never before 
 been pubhshed in this or any other country. As the publisher has decided to offer the work 
 at a /ozv price^ with a view of large sales, the book is likely to find its way into the hands of 
 all good blacksmiths wherever located. It is bound in extra cloth, with ink side stamp and 
 gold back, and will be sent post-paid to any part of the country on receipt of price, 
 $l.OO. Address, 
 
 H. T. RICHARDSON, Pablisher, 
 84 and 86 Reade Street, New York. 
 
JUST PUBLISHED. 
 
 Tie Practical iorse-Sliflfir. 
 
 We have just completed a 
 book on horseshoeing, compiled 
 from the practical articles which 
 have appeared in the columns of 
 "The BlacUsmitli 
 and Wlieelwriifflit" 
 during the past few years. 
 Altogether it is the 
 
 MOST IMPORTANT 
 
 Work on 
 
 Horse-Sboeing 
 
 ever published, and contains, in 
 addition to illustrations of proper 
 shapes of shoes for different 
 diseases of the feet, engravings 
 and descriptions of the various 
 methods of Shoeing Vicious 
 and Ugly Homes or Mules. 
 
 great variety of Tools suitable 
 and useful in horseshoeing are 
 described and illustrated. 
 
 It tells how to shoe horses to 
 Cure Contraction, to Pre- 
 vent Interfering or Over- 
 reacJiiug. It tells the best 
 method of Treating Corns — 
 whether Cold or Mot Fitting 
 is best. A great variety of other 
 information not at present ob- 
 tainable elsewhere will be found 
 in its pages. 
 
 The book is bound in extra 
 cloth, with ink side stamp and gold back, and will be sent to any address on receipt of the 
 price, One Dollar, A>.dress, 
 
 M. T. mCHARDSOlT, Publisher, 
 
 84 & 86 Reade Si., Hem York. 
 
Btw W@tj WPTg C 
 
 JANESVILLE, WIS. 
 
 COMBINED PUNCH AND SHEAR, for heavy work. Cuts Hat Bar K by 4, Va by 8, 
 5< by 2, 1 inch round or less. Also cuts Plow Steel % by (5. Punches % inch thick— all 
 without any change. Three sets of knives and one punch all independent of each other. 
 Weight, 660 pounds. Punches to center of 8 inches. Price, $85.00. 
 
 MANUFACTURERS OF 
 
 Hani ai Belt Power PnncMi aiil Mm lacMnerj 
 
 For Blacksmiths, Carriage and Wagon Makers, 
 Agricultural Implement and Plow Makers. 
 
 THE BEST KNOWN FLUX FOR WELDING 
 
 Send fcr Frice-List and Circulars fo 
 
 Tlie dierry Heat Weliili 
 
 COMPOUND CO., 
 
 AND MALLEABLE lliON TO STEEL. 
 
 545 to 549 West m Street, 
 
 NEW YORK, N. Y. 
 
 A one pound tin sent by jnail on re- 
 ceipt of 40 cents. 
 
Root's 
 
 New 
 
 Acme 
 
 Hand 
 
 Blower 
 
 Root's 
 
 New 
 
 Acme 
 
 Portable 
 
 Forge 
 
 Will do enough 
 more work and 
 save more coal 
 thin any fan 
 or bellows to 
 pay for itself 
 in a short time 
 
 Will last as 
 long as a half- 
 dozen Forges 
 of any other 
 make, and 
 twice as much 
 work can be 
 turned out. 
 
 Roofs New 
 Acme Fire-Bed 
 and Tuyere. 
 
 P. H. & F. M. ROOTS CO., Manufacturers, 
 
 A Perfect Fire- 
 Bed cast in one 
 piece. Cinders 
 will not stick 
 to it. 
 
 S. S. TOWNSEND, fien. Agent, ) 22 Cortlandt, Street, 
 
 COOKE A CO., Selling Agents, / New lork. 
 
S. D. KIMBARK, 
 
 MncHiGAN Ave. and Lake St., CHICAGO, ILL., 
 
 JOBBER OF 
 
 Bllacksniittis' Tools and Supplies, 
 
 OK EVERY DESCRIPTION. 
 
 BOYHTOIT PLUMMER, 
 
 WORCESTER, WIASS., 
 
 MANUFACTURERS OF 
 
 Blacksmith Drii's, Bolt Guttersjire Benders, 
 Tire Shrinkers, and Tools adapted to 
 the Blacksmith & Carriage Trade. 
 
The Black Giant Shear, Upset and Punch. 
 
 THE MOST SUCCESSFUL 
 
 COMBINATION PUNCH, SHEAR AND UPSET 
 
 EVER OFFERED THE PURLIC. 
 
 In Universal Use from Maine to Australia. 
 
 Every Machine fully tkstkd before leaving tho factory. 
 Main bearings are chilled, steel Ribs in back of slide take up all 
 wear, and WE guarantee them to cut H in. square and round iron 
 and 3by k, inch flat bars. They will punch iron ^ thick, and will 
 p nch a ?i"inch hole in boiler plate 5-16 thick, 6 inchei from tho 
 edge. Has sell-adjuiting dies and punches. 
 
 The Upset is admitted by all who have used it to be the sur- 
 est grip and EASIEST WORKER. 
 
 Upsets buggy Axles and oidinary WAOON TIRES one- 
 inch at a beat. Will upset axles or any kind of iron from 'A la 1 
 inch thick. . 
 
 Easily handled by one man. Requirei no change. Js the 
 stronKest (weight 460 pounds), ha-ndiest and most durable machine. 
 
 Machines co.npl'te have Sland.s Three Dies, Four Punches 
 and Forged Steel Lever. New Punches by mail, postage paid 60 
 
 ents e 
 
 ch. 
 
 Extras.-RIPPINa SHEARS tor cutting co^ tinu us strips, 
 and SAW GUMMER. FOR ^^A1.R HY CARRlAtiE AM) 
 HEAVY HARDWARE-HOUSES. For furiher piini.ular= adJiYsi 
 
 BLACK GIANT CO., 
 
 OLEAN, N. Y. 
 
 THE STAOTAUD TOOL CO., 
 
 CLEVELAND, OHIO, 
 
 MANUFACTURERS OF 
 
 TWIST DRILLS, REAMERS, CHUCKS, ETC., 
 
 STRAIGHT SHANK DRILLS, 
 
 BIT STOCK DRILLS, 
 
 Drills to fit Blacksmiths' Drill Presses, Square 
 Shank Drills, Milling Cutters and Special Tools 
 made to order promptly. 
 
FISHER & NORRIS, Trenton, N. J. 
 
 / EAGLE 
 ^^ANVIL WORKS. 
 
 ), 
 
 ORIGINAL AND ONLY MAKERS OF THE 
 
 WARRANTED E^GtXjE " 
 
 Better tliaii tlie Best Englisli Anvil. 
 
 Best Tool Cast-Steel. Perfectly Welded. 
 Perfectly True. 
 <"£ the hardest temper and never " to settle," 
 Horn of tough 
 u ft t e VI p e r e d 
 steel, never o 
 break or b^nd. 
 O n ly a » v i I 
 made in U. S. 
 /ul y warr ant- 
 id as a b 0 71 e , 
 
 None genuine ivithout our Eagle 
 Trade-Mark and "FISHEK." 
 
 Anvils of 100 to 800 lbs, 10c per lb. 
 
 t3r Where our EAGLE ANVILS are not 
 kept for sale by the regular Dealers, we will al- 
 low a discount to any purchaser sending- us the 
 amount with his order, and will forward by low- 
 est freight. Write for Circular of Descrip- 
 tion and Cash Discount, 
 
 ESTABLISHED 
 1843. 
 
 Ap: 
 
 Latest Patents, 
 il 24,1877, and 
 May 13 1887, 
 and June 28, 
 

 
 ■ 
 
 IRON AND STEEL, '1 
 
 ^^sBl^^v IMPORTERS OF NORWAY IRON, ^^^^J i 
 ^^^^^^^ CATALOGUE FREE. SEND ADDRESS. ^^^^^H^„^ 
 
 /I^^^B "^'^ ^ ^^^^^^^ 
 
 
 CRESCENT STEEL 
 
 For Tools and Dies of all kinds, has the preference of com- 
 petent steel-workers, because it does the most work and gives least 
 
 CRESCENT STEEL WORKS, 
 
 Western Warehouse : riTTSBUMGH, PA. Eastern Warehouse: 
 
 M & 66 S. Clinton St„ CMcago. 480 Pearl St., New YorK. 
 
 
 • BRADLEY'S POWER HAMMERS • ^ 
 
 ^^^J The BEST in Over '^S' 
 
 the WORLD, d-^^^ 1 5 O O 
 ^ RUN BY BELT Ir. USK. J 
 
 1^^^^^ UPRIGHT BAMMEH. „11iItll^SlT^fe^ 
 
 Bradley's HE ATIK"G Forges ^^^^fe^ . W 
 
 ^ff^^^^ Indispensable in all shops to keep BRADLEY'S i^^^^J^ i^l 
 "^^gssiS^ CUSHIONED HAMMERS and men fully em- W "W^p^ ^ 
 11 E^^ll iL. P'oy^'^ ^"'^ reduce the cost of production. |i Ijl, T| !| 
 1!—-- IL^ BR.ADI.KY & CO., Syracuse, Y, " JL_ 
 
 Bradley's soft bradlfy's h\fi> coal. 
 
 coiL FOKGK. 63 Murray St., New York ; 98 Sudbury St., Boston, Mass. iiKATiN,; FokoK. 
 
 
 THE WORLD'S STANDARD. 
 
 
 
 
 AMERICA'S BEST.