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I Gin f C ij / FOR LANCASHIRE. NEW EDITION , REVISED . WITH MAP. LONDON: JOHN MUBBAY, ALBEMAELE ST BEET, 1880. The right of Translation is reserved. LONDON: PRINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, LIMITED, STAMFORD STREET AND CHARING CROSS. PREFACE. Absolute accuracy is by no means claimed for this new edition of the Handbook to Lancashire. At the same time, many cor- rections and much additional information will be found in it. The state of trade being so very uncertain, the Editor has thought it better to confine himself to the general account of the Lancashire Industries previously given, and to avoid statistical detail. The Editor will be thankful for any hints or information which may be sent to him. Communications should be addressed to the care of Mr. Murray, 50 Albemarle Street. The Editor begs to state his grateful obligations to Mr. W. E. A. Axon, of Manchester ; to Mr. Joseph Boult, of Liverpool ; and to Mr. W. Boper, of Lancaster, for all information respecting these towns. He has also thankfully to acknowledge the kind co-operation of Mr. E. Kirk, of Pendleton, near Manchester ; of Mr. James Clegg, Editor of the Bolton Chronicle ; of Mr. W. Abram, Editor of the Blackburn Times ; of Mr. A. Sinclair, of St. Helens ; of Mr. W. Beam on t, of Warrington ; of Mr. Dixon, of Ormskirk ; of Mr. Bond, of Dalton-in-Eurness ; of Mr. C. B. West, of Manchester; all of whom have endeavoured to insure the accuracy of the work. May, 1880. CONTENTS. Introduction . . PAGE Y ROUTES. *** The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the places are described. ROUTE PAGE 1 Warrington to Preston, by Newton and Wigan ... 1 2 Stockport to Manchester . . 11 3 Manchester to Oldham , by Ashton-under- Lyne . . 31 4 Manchester to Burnley, by Middleton , Rochdale , and Todmorden 39 5 Manchester to Accrington, by Bury and Haslingden . . 48 6 Bury to Burnley, by Bacup and Rossendale .... 54 7 Manchester to Clitheroe , by Bolton , Blackburn , and Whalley . * ... 58 8 Preston to Colne , by Blackburn, Accrington , and Burnley . 80 9 Manchester to Wigan, by Eccles and Tyldesley . . 85 10 Manchester to Preston, by Bolton and Chorley . . 93 11 Rochdale to Liverpool, by Bury, Bolton, and Wigan . 96 ROUTE PAGE 12 Manchester to Liverpool, by Newton and B rescot . . 99 12a Manchester to Liverpool, by Glazebrook and Warrington 107 13 Warrington to Liverpool, by Widnes , Speke , and Gars - ton . . . ... . 109 14 Liverpool to Southport ' '. . 112 15 Liverpool to Preston, by Orms- kirk . , . . . . . 132 16 Preston to Fleetwood, ’ by Ly - tham and Blackpool . .140 17 Preston to Kendal, by Lan- caster 151 18 Morecambe to Carnforth Junc- tion, by Wennington . . 161 1 9 Carnforth to Barrow , by XJl - verston and Furness Abbey . 165 20 Ulverston to Ambleside, by Newby Bridge and Bowness . 182 21 Furness Junction to Amble- side, by Broughton, Coniston, and Hawkshead . . .186 INTRODUCTION. PAGE I. Physical Geography and Geology v II. Industrial Resources xi III. Communications xxiv IV. History and Antiquities xxvii Y. Places of Interest xxxvi VI. Skeleton Tour xxxix VII. Antiquarian Tour xl VIII. Pedestrian Tour xli I.— PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY AND GEOLOGY. LANCASHIRE. The county palatine of Lancaster possesses in some degree a similarity in its physical features to that of Salop, inasmuch as it contains within its boundaries scenery of such opposite character. The fertile plain, the desolate fenland, the moors and the mountains, have each their place in Lancashire, and though there is much in it that is somewhat dreary super- ficially, the riches that are obtained from under the surface make ample amends. The whole of South Lancashire, comprising the district between the Mersey and the Liverpool and Manchester Railway, is exceedingly flat and unprepossessing, and it is not until we get north of that line that the rising grounds of the coal-fields begin to show themselves and impart some variety. The western portion of the coal basin, although tolerably diversified, does not possess any attractive features — but as soon as the traveller crosses the line marked by the Wigan and Preston Railway, a great difference is seen. Here we have the conspicuous range of Rivington Pike (1545 ft.), which appears higher than it really is from the extent of the plain out of which it rises. The lofty moorlands and broken dells, called locally “doughs” or “goyts,” extend southward as far as Bolton, while northward they run to Blackburn, Haslingden, and Burnley, where, divided by the valleys of the Calder and the Ribble, a fresh set of hills takes their place. It is a district given up to coal-pits, grit and sandstone quarries, and dye-works, and is not one much visited by tourists ; but nevertheless it contains some very picturesque scenery, the hills which overlook the vi i. Physical Geography and Geology : IntrocL Irwell valley by Eamsbottom rising to a considerable height at Holcombe Moor (1162 ft.), the valleys themselves being richly wooded. Towards the source of the Irwell they run up into the heart of the moorlands of Eossendale Forest, now only a forest in name. The general elevation of Eossendale is in itself considerable, and the outline of the hills so devoid of sharpness that the highest parts of the district, such as Derplay (1429 ft.), Coupe Law (1438 ft.), and Haslingden Moors, lose their effect amongst the moorlands by which they are surrounded, and which extend eastward to Eochdale. Here, in the hills that overlook the valleys of the Eoch and the Spodden, much beautiful scenery on a small scale is to be found. The eastern border of the county is marked by a much finer series of hills, which run far into Yorkshire, and form part of the great backbone of the Pennine chain. Blackstone Edge and the valley of the Calder, up to Todmorden, offer rugged and broken land- scape of great interest, with many special features which will well repay their exploration by the antiquary and the geologist. At Todmorden a great transverse valley is reached, the right arm of which at once conveys the traveller into Yorkshire, while the left introduces him to the mountain region to the north of Burnley. Here the culminating point is reached in Pendle Hill, an immense mass of mountain, 1803 ft. in height, which, with its outliers of Padiham Heights, fills up the area between Burnley, Colne, Clitlieroe, and Whalley. At Clitheroe the broad valley of the Eibble intervenes, with its sub- sidiary the Hodder, shutting off the hill districts of East and Mid Lancashire from those of the north ; although, looking up the Yale of Hodder, the tourist beholds the distant terrace-like mountains in the neighbourhood of Whitewell, which connect this portion of the county with Lancaster by means of the Fells of Wyerdale and Bleasdale, and the Forest of Bowland. We have' thus traced the gradual development of high land, from the flats and levels of South and West Lancashire, through the coalmeasure plateaus of the middle of the county, to the rugged and inhospitable fells of the north ; and we have now to continue our examination on the other side of the Eibble, which, as it were, cuts the county in two, almost at its narrowest part. Taking the line marked out by the Preston and Lancaster Eailway, we have on 1. just such another series of mosses and levels as we have between Liverpool, Ormskirk, and Preston, and w T hich appear to be the concomitants of the estuaries of the large rivers, such as the Mersey, Eibble, Wire, and Lune. But as the hill country is approached (to the rt. of the railway), the valleys become deeper, the rivers more rapid, and the scenery more pic- turesque. The fells themselves are not remarkable for great height or great beauty, but for all that they are worth ascending, on account of the very extensive views seaward over the Irish Channel and the Isle of Man. In the Yale of Lune, which acts as the second great break dividing the Lancaster Fells from the Lake Mountains, there is much beautiful scenery, especially as the tourist nears its head in the neighbourhood of Kirk by Lonsdale, or the head of its tributary, the Wenning, in the vicinity of Ingleton, where the mountain limestone not only composes the magnifi- Introd. Lancashire . Vll cent ranges of Ingleborough and Penyghent, but is the framework of those extraordinary caverns which burrow into the recesses of the hills. At Carnforth we are introduced into that glorious region of Lake Mountains, which are only Lancastrian by arbitrary geographical division, but physi- cally are continuous with Westmorland and Cumberland. In the portion which belongs to the County Palatine are Windermere, Esthwaite Water, and Coniston Water, all of which lakes have a parallel course from N. to S., thus, determining the course of the rivers that issue from them into the Bay of Morecambe, and also those limestone and Silurian mountains, which, commencing with Weatherlam and Coniston Old Man, gradually decline in height until they terminate seawards in the Fells of Furness. The geology of Lancashire, although full of general interest, is not so varied as its scenery, by far the largest portion of the county being com- prised in the carboniferous formation, which is of great extent and im- portance. The most recent strata are those of the Triassic, or New Bed Sandstone, which fringes the sea-coast districts on the W., and the river district on the S. Speaking rather generally, the limits of it would be defined by the course of the Lancaster, Preston, Ormskirk, and Liverpool Eailway, and from the latter place to Manchester by the London and North-Western Railway and the Mersey. It consists principally of the Keuper beds, which are very uniform in their lithological aspect throughout the district, being mostly a conglo- merate containing quartz, pebbles, and nodules of clay. The Bun ter Sandstone appears but little on the rising ground north of the Mersey, where it has suffered too much from denudation; but it is seen along the river valley, and the low-lying lands in the neighbourhood of Widnes. Sections and well-borings at Liverpool show the Triassic beds to be of the following thickness : — Keuper Red Marls, 100 ft. ; Upper Shales or Water- stones, 75 ft. ; Red and Yellow Sandstones, 150 ft. ; Lower Shales, 50 ft. ; Yellow and White Sandstones, with Conglomerate base, 175 ft. ; Bunter Upper Sandstone, 400 ft. ; Pebble-bed, 350 ft. ; Lower Sandstones, 400 ft. ; total thickness, 1700 ft. At Manchester the New Red is only 1200 ft., showing that it diminishes rapidly as it goes S.E., as it is only 600 ft. in Derby and Staffordshire, and 250 ft. in Leicester and Warwick. It is an important aid to the commercial resources of Manchester, as it yields to the bleachworks, factories, and breweries upwards of six million gallons of water every twenty- four hours. Sections at Orsmkirk show the base of the Keuper conglomerate, with the Bunter underneath, where it yields a very valuable sand for foundry purposes. Warrington is, perhaps, the best place in Lancashire for studying the New Red, for in the neighbourhood the Bunter Sandstones are found not only on the north side, of the river, but also at Hillcliff and Lymm on the Cheshire side. Moreover, it is not so obscured by drift or u till ” as it is near Manchester, or along the west coast, where it is scarcely visible on that account. The Permian beds assume an importance in Lancashire which few other counties possess, and which, of course, arises from their connection with the large carboniferous area which they more or less fringe. The best Introd. vm i. Physical Geography and Geology localities for studying them are the neighbourhoods of Warrington, Leigh, and Manchester. They are well seen forming a belt of half a mile in width from Grange, N. of St. Helens, and thence in the direction of Parr and Sutton to Barnhill, when they are thrown out by a fault. Near Man- chester Mr. Binney gives the following general sections of the Permian beds : — 1. Laminated and fine-grained red sandstone (not seen). 2. Red and variegated marls, with beds of limestone and gypsum, containing schizodus, &c., 300 feet. 3. Conglomerates, 50 ft. 4. Lower Red sand- stone, 500 ft. 5. Red shaley clays (not seen). 6. Astley pebble beds, containing coal-plants, and termed by him Lower Permian, 60 ft. The Carboniferous formation , including the coalmeasures, millstone grit, shales, and limestone, occupy the remainder of the county, and are of vast importance in an economic point of view, as also of extreme interest to the geologist. Speaking generally, this formation is of great thickness in Lancashire; the The coalmeasures, the whole and uninterrupted series of which is fuund here, is divided into the Lower, Middle, and Upper Series; the Lower or Ganister, resting directly on the Millstone Grit, and terminating at the floor of the Arley Mine. The Middle series extends upwards to the floor of the Pendleton Four-foot coal, while the Upper embraces the Ardwick beds. Although it is a common fashion to speak of the different coal-fields of Wigan, St. Helens, Bolton, &c., they are all part and parcel of the great Lancashire basin, the only two fields that are really separated by geological boundaries being those of Manchester and Burnley. The Lancashire field is marked out on the W. by a great fault, which throws down the New Red, and extends from Lathom Park, near Ormskirk, to Huy ton. On the N., on the high grounds that run with considerable uniformity from Chorley to Ashton-under-Lyne, the coal country declines gradually from the foot of these hills to the Mersey, dipping under the New Red and Permian Beds, which line its banks. The bulk of the measures are those of the Middle Coal Series, the lowest horizon of which is the Arley Mine, a most valuable and persistent coal, that forms an ex- cellent geological starting-point for correlative purposes ; for, as usual, the measures in the different places are nearly all called by their own particular names, adding greatly to the confusion and difficulty of establishing identity. The difficulty is increased by the rapid thickening of the sandstones and shales towards the N.W. Mr. Binney, however, has pointed out the continuity of several strata throughout the basin, as, for instance, the “ Little Delf ” of St. Helens with the Arley Mine at Wigan, the “ Riley ” Mine of Bolton and the “ Dog- shaw ” Mine of Bury. The upper coalmeasures of the Lancashire basin are either without coal, or with such thin beds as not to be worth working. Coalmeas ures being Millstone grit Yoredale series . . Feet. 8460 5500 5025 18,985 IntrocL Lancashire . ix At St. Helens these have a thickness of 650 yards, and near Bolton of 420. The St. Helens section shows 14 measures of coal varying from 1 ft. 6 in. to 9 ft. (the St. Helens Main Coal). At Wigan there are 15 beds, varying from 3 ft. to 7 ft., and the same number at Bolton. The most valuable of the series are the Arley Mine and the Cannel. The former is characterised by a very constant bed of ironstone, charged with Anthracosia robusta. The latter is rich in fish remains, but unfortunately it thins out in every direction from Wigan, which appears to be the centre. But the whole of the measures have yielded a great number of fossils, and particularly ferns. The Lower coalmeasures of the Lancashire basin, or Ganister series, are found principally occupying the high moorland to the N. of Wigan, Horwich, Bolton, Bury, Oldham, and Staley Bridge. The coal-seams them- selves are thin, and not nearly so important as those of the Middle measures; but they are of great interest to the geologist, and are the cause of considerable scenic beauty, characterised by deep winding valleys, or 44 doughs,” excavated out of the shales and sandstones. The Ganister series is also found occupying an area interposed between the Middle measures from a point a little N. of St. Helens up to the valley of the Tawd. Their appearance here is caused by a great fault, called the Up- holland Fault, which brings up the Ganister beds on the E., and throws out all the coals except the Mountain mines, which are so called because they are generally worked by levels or galleries running into the hill- sides. This area is marked superficially by the high grounds of Billinge, Ashurst, and Upholland. A section at Billinge shows, in a thickness of about 1800 ft., 6 beds of coal, varying from a few inches to 2 ft. 8 in. The roofs of these coals abound in goniatites, &c., and the under-clays in stigmaria. The Manchester coalfield is really a distinct field, separated from the main Lancashire basin by New Bed and by Permian rocks at Collyhurst. It is but small, being only 44 m. long by 14 broad. Economically, it is not of so much importance, as the thick coals of the Middle measures below the Worsley Four-feet have not yet been reached; but to the geologist it is exceedingly interesting, as affording one of the finest Upper coalmeasure sections in England. These can be seen in the valley of the Medlock at Ardwick, and consist of red clays, sandstones, and 6 beds of limestone, containing spirorbis and fish. The coal-seams are few and thin, but there is a bed of blackband, with fish and marine shells. To the N.E. of the Lancashire basin, and separated by the Ganister rocks and the millstone-grit plateaux of Bossendale and Habergham, is the small but productive coal-field of Burnley, nearly oval in shape, lying in a trough that passes under the town of Burnley, and bounded on all sides by millstone-grit and Yoredale rocks. The E. boundary is formed by a great fault, which has plunged the productive coalmeasures on the W. towards the centre of the basin, where they are nearly horizontal. The measures are those of the Middle and Lower series, the former commencing with the Doghole coal and ending with the Fulledge coal, the equivalent of the Arley mine, which is the 13th coal-seam in succes- X Introd. I. Physical Geography and Geology . sion from the top. To the Fulledge coal succeed the Ganister coals and millstone-grit series. To the geologist, the Burnley basin is specially instructive, because it offers an uninterrupted section, commencing with the outcrop of the Fulledge (or Arley) coal, through the Lower coal- measures, Rough rock, Millstone-grit, and Yoredale series of Pendle Hill * — a section of not much less than 10,000 feet. The whole of the series abound in fish remains and shells. The country between Rochdale, Todmorden, and Burnley, embracing the rugged moorlands of Cliviger, is composed of hills of the Lower coal- measures and millstone-grit; the Yoredale series, or limestone shales, occupying the district between Burnley, Colne, and Olitheroe. To the N.W., again, of these is a fine development of carboniferous limestone , forming lofty ranges of hills between Clitheroe, Whitewell, and Lancaster. This limestone is seen in its most picturesque forms along the valleys of the Lune and Wenning, and skirting the shores of Morecamhe Bay. It is to these rocks that are owing the magnificent cave series of Kirkby Lonsdale and the valuable mineral riches of the Furness district, where the junction of the limestone with the Silurian slates is marked by workings for haematite ore. The Silurians of Furness are principally of Wenlock and Caradoe age, embracing all the country up to Coniston, under the name of Coniston Flags. At Coniston itself are seen not only Coniston limestones, but the mudstones underneath these, containing fossils of Llandeilo age. The Drift formation in Lancashire is of great interest to the geologist, and has been most minutely described, as regarding the S. of the county, by Mr. Binney and Mr. Morton. The former geologist has divided the drift in the neighbourhood of Manchester into — 1. Upper sand and gravel ; 2. Middle boulder clay, or “ till 3. Lower sand and gravel ; and, with local differences, this division may stand for the greater part of the county. The Upper sand, to the N. of Manchester, is at least 150 ft. thick. The boulder clay is seen in great force along the lowlands on the banks of the Irwell and Mersey ; and in the neighbourhood of Bolton the upper surface “ assumes the form of a plain, which stretches to the base of the hills, and through which the rivers wander in deeply cut channels.” On the N. hank of the Mersey, from Hale to Garston, the boulder clay forms a conspicuous cliff, full of erratic blocks of old rocks. The Furness district, too, is towards the S. thickly overlaid with drift, and offers most instructive appearances of moraines, hummocks, roches moutonnes, and plateaux. Localities of Interest for the Geologist. Coniston limestones and mudstones at Coniston Old Man, with Llandeilo fossils. Coniston flags (fossiliferous) at Lowick and the valley of the Crake. Moulded limestones near Ulverston (Tarn Close). Haematite ore-mines at Dalton and Lindale. Introd. Lancashire . xi Coniston flags and grits at Kirkby Ireleth. Yoredale shales at Pendle Hill. Carboniferous limestone (very rich in fossils) of the Bowland Forest. Ditto at Clitheroe and Chatburn. Section of Lower coalmeasures, Rough rock , and millstone-grit, between Burnley, Padiham, and Pendle Hill. Middle and Lower coalmeasures at Burnley, rich in shells, fish remains, and ferns. Lower coalmeasures at Billinge. Ditto at Upholland, and millstone-grit at Grimshaw Delf. Middle coalmeasures at Wigan (rich in fossils). Ditto at Bolton and Bury, very rich in ferns. Lower measures at Rivington and the bed of the Yarrow. Ditto at Oldham (rich in shells and fish). Ujpper measures at Ardwick ; fresh-water limestones , with spirorbis (shells and fish). Permian quarries (fossiliferous) at Bedford, near Leigh. Permian beds at Colly hurst. Ditto at Astley. New Red sandstone at Warrington (Highcliff, in Cheshire), and between Rainhill and St. Helens. Drift in valleys of the Irwell and Irk. Ditto at Blackpool (shell-bed at Gynn). Boulder-clay cliff at Hale. II.— INDUSTRIAL RESOURCES. Lancashire is from various causes one of the richest and most important counties in England, whether we regard its natural productions or those manufactures which have taken such deep root in it — on which such an enormous population depend for their daily bread, and so many millions of capital are embarked. One of the principal reasons of the prosperity of Lancashire has been its vast coalfields, upon which her busy factory towns stand, and without which they could not exist. The hilly contour of the county, with its numerous streams and rivers, con- tributed also to the establishment upon their banks of the various mills which required the motive power of water, although in this respect the mighty aid of steam has to a great degree neutralised these advantages ; while in the rapid growth of Liverpool — after London the busiest port in the world — may be seen another reason why the tide of commerce has poured in with such a steady flow into the county palatine. In metalliferous mines Lancashire is not wealthy, save in one respect, and it is not difficult to understand why, when we consider the geological formation of the county. Lead used to be worked at Whitewell, near (Jlitheroe* in the carboniferous limestone, and that only to a small extent, xii ii. Industrial Resources : Introd. the yield in 1868 being only 690 tons of ore, producing 489 tons of lead. About five years afterwards, the supply came to an end, and. though, doubtless, lead might be found in other parts of the hills, work has never been resumed. Copper is more abundant, and is found at the most northern extremity of the county, amidst the rugged cliffs of Coniston Old Man. 1686 tons of copper ore were extracted in 1868, from which the amount ot fine copper was 147 tons, of the value of nearly 11,000?. The mines are now (1879) at a standstill, owing to the depression of trade. A little to the S. of Coniston, but in the same isolated section ol the county, is the district of Furness, the richest locality for iron ore^ in the kingdom. Argillaceous iron ores are worked in several localities where there are °coal-seams ; but Furness is especially celebrated for its vast supplies of haematite iron ore, which occurs just at the junction of the carboniferous limestone with the Silurian slates. Not only has the discovery of this ore given employment to a large mining population, but it has created within the last 20 years the populous and busy iron town of Barrow, from whence lines of railway run inland to supply the ironworks of other counties, whilst a continuous fleet of ships carries the ore to South Wales. There are about 10 principal mines in Furness, and a number of small ones ; the ore raised annually may be counted by hundreds of thousands of tons. The quantity raised in 1878 was 984,781 tons. The peculiarity of the Furness mines is that the iron ores do not occur in beds or regular strata, like the carbonaceous ores and blackbands, but are found in great irregular masses like lodes. “ Among the more remarkable mines are those of Lmdal Moor, worked to a depth of about 70 yards, but to a width almost as great. Huge excavations are thus formed in a mass of solid ore as large, according to the saying of the district which recalls the comfortable status of the Furness churchmen, as a tithe-barn. The result has been the collapse °f l* 1 ® ground into a deep gully for a quarter of a mile in length. On the north ot the town of Dalton, at Rickett Hills, Elliscales, and Mousell, the hematite has been worked in several isolated repositories, described as of a dish shape, in which the excavation has been stopped on all sides by limestone ; several of these, whose boundaries have been ascertained, run from 50 to 60 yards in width, and 15 to 20 yards deep, having no cover over them but the diluvium of drift.”— Geo?. Surv. Memoirs. The average percentage of iron in the ore is from 60 to 65, which causes it to be in great request for mixing with the inferior ores of other coalfields. With the exception, however, of Barrow (Bte. 19) and Wigan (Rte. 1), Lancashire is not a great iron-making county, . and nearly all the furnaces that it does contain are devoted to the smelting of the haematite. The Barrow Steel Company have ten furnaces in blast, and the Carnforth Com- pany have two. The Kirkless Hall Company at Wigan have four, which are supplied partly by haematite and partly by argillaceous ore. At Newland and Blackbarrow are a couple of furnaces which are ted by charcoal, the sole relics in England of the early days of smelting, when timber was plentiful and pit-coal scarcely known. The amount of pig- iron turned out in 1867 was 318,800 tons. The Lancashire Coalfield contains 353 collieries, which give a total annual Introd. Lancashire. xiii yield of 13 million tons. A very large portion of this immense output is used in the numberless factories, ironworks, foundries, and railways of the county ; hut, on the other hand, enormous quantities are sent by rail to London and all over the kingdom. The principal locality from whence these supplies are derived is that of Wigan, the cannel coal of which is in high reputation for producing a quick-burning blazing fire. The total area of the three coalfields is 217 square miles. The quantity of available coal is estimated by Mr. Hull at 3990 millions of tons, which he calculates will last for 263 years. This, however, was taken in 1860 at the average yield per annum of 11 millions of tons, whereas the output is now 13 millions. Manufactures. Cotton . — As early as 1641 we hear that the Man- chester people bought linen yarn from the Irish, and after weaving it, returned it for sale in a finished state. They also bought cotton wool that came from Smyrna to work into fustians and dimities. But the cotton of those days was rather obscure as to the material, and from various Acts and authorities it would seem to have been identical with the woollen cloth. Leland speaks of Bolton “ standing by cottons,” and an Act of Edward YI.’s reign provides “that all the cottons, called Manchester, Lancashire, and Cheshire cottons, first brought to the sale, shall be in length 22 yards, and contain in breadth three-quarters of a yard in the water, and shall weigh 30 lbs. in the piece at the least.” This, therefore, must have applied to woollen textures ; and Dr. Ure mentions that Kendal cottons are still so called, as they have been for the last 500 years, but that they consist of coarse wool. The fustians which old writers so frequently mention was either cotton by itself, or mixed with wool or linen. At all events it was imported into England from Antwerp and Ghent by the religious refugees who were artisans in this branch of trade, and a large number of whom settled in Bolton and Manchester. Here, therefore, is one direct reason why the manufacture has taken root in Lancashire. It rapidly increased, fostered partly by the Warden and Fellows of the College, who gave strangers the liberty of cutting timber for constructing their looms at the small rental of 4 d. each. Of such importance did the trade become, that in the reign of Elizabeth special Acts were passed for regulating the office of aulneger , or cloth-measurer, which had been in existence for a good many years, but had fallen into abeyance. The aulneger became an official of considerable dignity, and had deputies in Manchester, Bochdale, Blackburn, and Bury. Dr. Stukeley mentions in his ‘ Itinerarium Curiosum ’ (early part of the 18th centy.) that the trade of Manchester in fustians, tuckings, tapes, &c., exceeded that of any other town in the kingdom. But, notwithstanding all this prosperity, the cotton trade had arrived at a point where it threatened to stand still altogether, partly from bad legislation, and partly for want of sufficient material, and the necessary machinery to work it up. In fact, the cotton goods at the commencement of the 18th centy. were not strictly cotton goods, the warp, which is the most valuable portion of the web, being made of linen yarn ; and it was not until Arkwright introduced cotton twist for warp, that goods were really made of cotton altogether. These were manufactured to a considerable extent by Arkwright’s partners at Derby, Messrs. Strutt and Need, who found, after a time, that the legis- XIV n. Industrial Resources : Introd. lature not only imposed on their veritable cotton prints a double duty to what it imposed on mixed goods, but prohibited their sale in the home market. In George IIT.’s reign these absurd and mischievous laws were repealed as follows : — “ Whereas a new manfacture of stuffs, made entirely of potton spun in this kingdom, has been lately introduced, and some doubts were expressed whether it was lawful to use it, it was declared by Par- liament to be not only a lawful, but a laudable manufacture, and, therefore, permitted to be used, on paying 3d. a square yard when printed, painted, or stained with colour.” The great impetus thus given to the trade by the abolishing of these prohibitory measures was followed up about this time by the vast improve- ments and undertakings of the Duke of Bridgewater, who, by his gigantic system of inland navigation, placed Manchester and the cotton districts in direct communication with the shipping port of Liverpool, thus cheapening the cost of the raw material and the manufactured goods, besides stirring up industries in a thousand ways, and imparting a new era of life not only to Lancashire, but to the kingdom in general. Still, the cotton trade was waiting for its great development. “ It was estimated that, in 1760, the entire cotton manufacture of Manchester, and of any other and every other part of England, did not collectively exceed 200,000?. per annum ; and it is, therefore, plain that its growth must have been very slow. The homely hand-cards combed out the cotton wool, the one- thread wheel spun it into yarn, and the plain hand-loom wove this yarn into cloth. But the carding, and spinning, and weaving, were all done under the humble roof of the workman, and he had often difficulty in adjusting the quantity of yarn spun to the quantity which he required for his weaving ; and he had many a weary walk to buy materials and sell his produce .” — Land ive Live in. The first tangible improvement in machinery was made by John Kay in 1738, a weaver of Bury, who invented the “ fly-shuttle thus giving to weavers a more expeditious way of throwing their shuttle by means of the “ picking peg ” instead of by hand. This was not the same Kay who dis- puted with Arkwright subsequently the invention of roller spinners — and who had been employed by him to make his model, in consequence of his familiarity with intricate machinery, from being a clockmaker at War- rington. John Kay, of Bury, had a son, Robert, who followed up his father’s ingenuity by devising the “ drop-box,” so as to enable the weaver to use any of his shuttles at will, and thus to weave a coloured fabric as easily as a plain one. In the same year that John Kay brought out his fly-shuttle, Lewis Paul and John Wyatt, both of Birmingham, took out a patent for spinning cotton and wool by rollers. They established a mill at Birmingham, and one was subsequently set up at Northampton in which they were interested. Ingenious as was the plan, the scheme failed, and Wyatt was ruined. Paul, however, who had nothing to lose, seems to have got on better, and subsequently brought out a new patent, founded on Wyatt’s, with some additional improvements. But, after all said and done, they both failed to produce good yarn at remunerating prices, and their efforts gradually became things of the past. But the question of spinning by rollers, once started, did not drop, and it was reserved for Introd. Lancashire . XT Arkwright, the Preston barber, to successfully perform this achievement, and manufacture good yarn in this way. His patent for drawing-rollers was taken out in 1769. He employed in this matter Kay, the clockmaker of Warrington, to make his models, and, soon afterwards, a great controversy arose, which terminated in a trial of Arkwright’s patent in the King’s Bench. It appears that Kay was employed by a man named Highs, a reed-maker, in 1767, to put together a model containing wooden rollers, whereupon Highs claimed to he the original inventor of the roller- spinning, and asserted that Arkwright had stolen it. But the result of the trial proved that Kay was a treacherous servant to both masters, and more particularly to Arkwright, and he appears to have put Highs up to the notion of disputing the invention. Highs certainly had some idea of it floating through his head, hut he never produced any machine capable of doing work. About the same period another great invention had taken place, which, though travelling in a different groove from that of Arkwright’s, was destined to make an equal revolution in the cotton manufacture. The common household wheel, which could only spin one- thread at a time, was superseded, 17 64, by Hargreaves' spinning-jenny, by which “ several spindles, at first eight, afterwards eighty, were made to whirl by one fly-wheel, while a movable frame, representing as many fingers and thumbs as there were threads, alternately receded from the spindles during the extension of the thread, and approached to them in its winding on.” The spindles in this spinning-jenny were upright, instead of being horizontal, as in the old wheel, and Hargreaves is said to have taken the idea from noticing a common wheel revolve after it was thrown on the floor with its spindle up. Secret as Hargreaves kept his invention, it leaked out through his wife, and a furious mob soon broke into his house and smashed his jenny, so that he migrated to Notting- ham, where he took out his patent. Previously to this, however, he had, under pressure of starvation, made several machines ; so that, when the time came for recompense for his patent, he found that it was extensively pirated, and he could get no compensation. Manufacturers in those days had no more conscience in such matters than they have now, and they reaped the benefit, while the inventor died heartbroken. Arkwright may be said to be the father of the present factory system, which he established at Cromford in Derbyshire, having had too much experience of the obstinacy and malice of his neighbours to risk setting up a mill in his native county. Here he erected his original water-power spinning-machine in 1769, which he followed up in 1775 by fresh improve- ments for carding, drawing, and roving machines. But even by his own family his venture was looked upon as very hazardous, and it is said that his wife felt so strongly about it that she separated from him, rather than hazard her fortune in the concern. Notwithstanding these discouragements the mill prospered, and turned out “ warp and hosiery yarn as fine as 80s, or even 100’s, that might bear a comparison with the firmest and most even water-twist of the present day.” The Lancashire manufacturers were so disgusted with his success, that they stirred up the mob to burn a mill which he had built at Birk- XVI ii. Industrial Resources : Introd. acre, near Chorley, and entered into a combination amongst themselves never to purchase any of his yarn. The same ignorant, miserable spirit was seen also at Blackburn, when the mob attacked and burnt all jennies with more than 20 spindles, and so disgusted Mr. Peel (afterwards Sir Robert) that he withdrew for a long time to Burton-on-Trent. Amongst those who successfully combated the storm was Mr. Doming Rasbotham, an antiquary and learned gentleman who lived near Bolton, 44 who circulated a printed address among the weavers and hand-spinners, explaining to them that every contrivance for cheapening production would increase the demand for their goods and consequently the employment of their labour.” — Ure. The difference between Arkwright and Hargreaves’ machines was this — the former was most suitable for spinning warp and hosiery yarns of a hard and compact fabric, while Hargreaves’ was best adapted to soft weft yarn of lower numbers. But in 1786 a machine was invented by Samuel Crompton, which to a great degree superseded both. Like most of these discoverers, Crompton was a poor working man, residing at Hall-i’-th- Wood, near Bolton (Rte. 7), where he first made in secresy the “mule” which had such a wonderful effect on the future of the cotton-trade. Like most of these secrets, he was soon forced to display it to the world, which gave him a better recognition of his merits than it did to previous inventors, for he obtained 5000?. from Parliament as a reward. Part of the prin- ciple of the mule was similar to Arkwright’s, inasmuch as Crompton used roller-beams, but the gist and great value of the machine w^as the spindle-carriage, which, by a hand-and-knee-movement, was made to recede just as the rollers delivered the thread in a soft state, 4 4 so that it would allow of a considerable stretch before the thread had to encounter the stress of winding on the spindle.” — Kennedy . Such an impetus was now given to the inventive faculty that a great many improvements speedily followed Crompton’s mule, the principle of which was the 44 slubbing-billy ” — a combination of the mule and the jenny. In fact, so numerous did the modifications become, that the spinning-trade naturally grouped itself into separate branches, and thus produced the factory system, — to which one of the greatest con- tributors was the employment of steam. The first cotton-mill was erected on Shude Hill, Manchester, in 1780, and was driven by an hydraulic wheel, and nine years afterwards the first steam-factory was erected by Mr. Drinkwater. It is then only within the last 80 years that this intricate system has grown up to the extent and importance that it now occupies and has arrived at such an extraordinary degree of perfection. 44 Our fine spinning-mills are the triumph of art and the glory of Eng- land. They need fear no competition, nor are they, in fact, objects of foreign rivalry. The delicacy of their machinery, the difficulty of keep- ing it in order, the dexterity of their hands, and the demand for their pro- ducts, are well known to other nations,” — Tufnell, Having thus briefly spoken of the rise and progress of the cotton-trade as far as it affects Lancashire, we will now r proceed to describe as briefly as Introd. Lancashire . XVII possible the processes through which cotton has to go, and what a visitor may see in a walk through a factory. There is no real difficulty in obtaining proper introductions to the owners of some one or other of the mills, and the visitor producing such is readily and courteously shown over it. But so great is the noise and the bewilderment that is frequently produced on the spectator for the first time, that he comes away with a very vague notion of the various processes that he has seen ; more par- ticularly as his cicerone is usually under the impression that the constantly moving parts of the machinery are as easily understood by others as they are familiar to himself. Cotton-factories, as commonly so called, are sus- ceptible of a good deal of distinction in their various branches, and may be divided roughly into cotton spinning-mills, where yarn is made ready for the weaver, mills where yarn is further spun into the form of thread, and mills where the after process of weaving is carried on. All these are further capable of subdivision, according to the numbers and quality of the yarn made and of the different sorts of goods into which the yarns are wove — whether fustians, cotton- velvets, or what not. Add to these the printing, bleaching, and dyeing works, with the many trades dependent upon them in their turn, such as machinists, colour-grinders, and others, and it may readily be imagined what a vast array of people is directly dependent on the organization of the cotton-trade. Cotton in its natural and raw state is the filamentous down which covers the seeds of the plant called gossypium, and is, of all textile materials, the easiest to twist into a thread. There are many varieties of the gossypium plant, which has a large range of habitat, though America, the East Indies, and Egypt appear to be the countries in which it flourishes in the greatest perfection. The relative value of cotton in the market depends entirely on the fibres or filaments, which, when examined through the microscope, appear to be hollow cylinders. “ The more nearly cylindrical they remain, the stronger and more pliant to the spindle will they be found. On these accounts, as well as from their greater length, the filaments of the Sea- Island, Egyptian, Guianian, and Brazilian cottons hold a higher value in the market than the Upland Georgian or the East Indian. In examining a sample of cotton- wool, the spinner draws it out slowly between the fore- fingers and thumbs of his two hands, and observes how the filaments suc- cessively escape from pressure. He then draws out the staple in the other direction, and thus alternately from hand to hand. In this manner he judges of the length, smoothness, fineness, and strength of the cotton.” — Dr. Ure. America has for many years been the principal storehouse of supply to the Lancashire market, but the occurrence of the war produced such a failure in crops, and such a consequent starvation of cotton yield, that merchants were obliged to look to other countries for help. India, Egypt, and the Mediterranean now supply a portion of the needs of the cotton market. But America since the peace, has resumed her original supremacy. The main distinction between cottons in the pod is that of blackseeded and greenseeded — Lhe former of which part with their downy wool very readily when operated upon by a pair of rollers worked by haDd, while the latter retains its wool with a much greater force, and [ Lancashire .] b . xviii ii. Industrial Resources : Introd. requires to be ginned , which is performed by a powerful revolving saw- mechanism worked by water or steam. After the wool is separated from the seeds, it is packed in large canvas bags by an hydraulic press, each bag containing about 500 lbs. It is up to this point that Liverpool is interested more than Manchester, as all the cotton bales have to come through that port, and thus give employment to an immense amount of money, work, and speculation. Cotton is sold at Liverpool by brokers, whose commission varies from I to i per cent. The buyers, who are the Manchester cotton-dealers and the spinners all over the country, also employ brokers, at the same rate of com- mission, to make their purchases. The cotton is principally bought and sold by samples, the purchasers very rarely considering it necessary to examine the bulk. Many wealthy spinners now import their own cotton direct. The bales, having been hauled up into the factory, the cotton is first sub- jected to the action of the “ willow ,” a box made of wood or iron, with revolving iron spikes. In this it is cleaned by loosening the large flocks and shaking the dust out of them. Spiked willows should be used with caution on long-stapled cottons, as it draws them into knots ; but when coarse cottons are worked, such as Surats and Bengals, the self-acting conical willow of Mr. Lillie is used. The cotton is put in at the narrow end of the cone, rapidly revolved and wafted towards the broad end, while the impurities are shaken out at the perforated bottom and sucked up by a fan. The old-fashioned name of this machine is the well-deserved one of the “ devil.” The cotton is then still further cleaned by the “ scutcher ” and “ blower,” the object of which is thoroughly to loosen the filaments already partially cleaned by the willow, and to carry off, through fans, the residue of the dust. The cotton is carried by a travelling creeper to the feeding rollers, and thence to the “ beater ” — which by means of flat bars carried rapidly round at the rate of 800 times a minute, frees it still further from impurities, and passes it on by a current of air ( blowing ) to a revolv- ing cage, and thence, by a second travelling creeper, to a receptacle, whence it is taken to the “ lap ” machine, in which the cotton, after being scutched and blown, is coiled up in a fleece on a wooden roller at the delivery end of the apparatus. The scutching and lap machines are frequently com- bined, the cotton being turned out at once in the form of a cylindrical lap, thus saving the labour of gathering and spreading. A scutching machine will prepare about 5000 lbs. of cotton per week, that is of average staple ; different qualities requiring different degrees of scutching : the short and soft staples take less beating than the fine and long ones. But the filaments of the cotton have to be still further disentangled and laid lengthways, instead of being doubled up and convoluted as they appear when leaving the scutching and lap machines, and this is carried out by the “carding” machine, which was mainly the invention of Lewis Paul of Northampton, as far as the cylinder cards were concerned. The principle of it consists in the mutual action of two opposite surfaces, studded thickly with obliquely placed hooks. It is, in fact, one or more cylinder cards covered with card leather, and a set of plain surfaces similarly covered, made to work against each other, Introd. Lancashire. xix but so that their points do not come into absolute contact. Each flock of wool, therefore, experiences the tender mercies of each set of teeth, one set trying to pull the filaments away with them while the other endeavours to retain them. The ultimate effect is to draw out the fibres and place them parallel with each other. The cotton is delivered from the lap on to a series of these revolving card-covered cylinders called “ squirrels,” which work very close to, but do not touch, the central drum cylinder. As the squirrels revolve with different degrees of speed, and are placed at varying distances from the drum, the filaments cannot possibly escape, but have the knots which passed through one set of squirrels teased out by another. At the opposite of the drum cylinder is a smaller one called the “ doffer” which comes in contact with it and strips off the filaments from it, becoming itself clothed with a very fine and beautiful fleece. But as the fleece goes round on the doffer it meets a sharp blade of steel, called the “ doffer-knife” which shears it off from the doffer and forms it into a riband by passing it through a funnel, when the riband becomes what is called a “ sliver ” As an example of the enormous extension which the filaments undergo in the carding machine, it may be mentioned that a lap of 30 ft, when intro- duced by the feed rollers becomes, when detached by the doffer-knife, a fleecy web of 2262 ft. in length. An improvement was made in 1844 upon the carding machine, which often broke the fibres, in the shape of the combing machine, which possessed the property of separating the long fibres from the short ones and laying the fibres parallel. The combing machine most in use in this county is the invention of M. Heilmann of Mulhausen. The lap is placed on revolving rollers and conducted to a steel roller which places it between the open jaws of a nipper. The nipper then approaches the comb cylinder, when it holds the fibres so as to allow the comb to remove all impurities and broken cotton. When the combs have passed through the cotton the nipper recedes, opens its jaws, and allows the partially combed fibres to be drawn into a continuous sliver, and the united slivers pass through the drawing head to undergo the operation of “drawing ” The drawing frame, of which Arkwright was the inventor, still further carries on the process of drawing out and elongating the slivers or ribands of cotton, strengthening the filaments and laying them parallel, by the action of revolving rollers, which grasp the slivers between them. But w^ere the drawing of a riband of cotton con- tinued till all its fibres acquired the proper degree of parallelism, it would be apt, from excessive attenuation, to tear across. This is provided against by “ doubling ,” viz., laying several ribands together at every repe- tition of the process, and incorporating them by pressure of the rollers. The inequalities of the riband thus disappear, and in proportion as the drawings are finer the yarns will be finer. The manufacturer has now got an uniform riband, but it still is not strong or coherent enough for spinning. This is acquired by “ slubbingf in which the sliver receives a twist, seeing that the elongated slivers of parallel filaments could not bear any further extension without breaking, unless they w r ere condensed so as to give cohesion. The “ roving ” process is a refinement on slubbing. “ At XX II. Industrial Resources : Introd. first the tension is slight, in proportion to the extension, since the solidity of the still coarse sliver needs that cohesion, and only in a small degree, and looseness of texture must he maintained to facilitate to the utmost the further elongation.” By the old roving frame the delicate texture of the yarn used to he seriously injured, until Messrs. Higgins of Salford invented the “ bobbin and fly ” frame, which is now used in almost all the factories and gives two especial movements : 1, the twisting action ; 2, the winding- on motion. It is intensely complicated, hut easily managed, delivering from each spindle in the day from 6 to 8 lbs. of “ roving.” One person can superintend two frames, piece the broken slivers, and replace full bobbins by empty ones. The rovings, made on the bobbin and fly, or in the “tube roving” frame, another variety of machine for the same end, but usualty used for coarser spinnings, are either spun into yarn directly or are further prepared in the “ stitching ” frame or stitching mule, which is only required for fine work, and is, in fact, a still further attenuation of the roving. As may easily be imagined, the material, after having under- gone such a series of beating, blowing, teazing, combing, drawing, doubling, and roving, is in a very tender state indeed, and requires careful handling so as not to injure the yarn. We now come to the finishing process in which the roving is spun into yarn by different machines according to the quality required. These two machines are the throstle and the mule . The throstle, or water frame (in consequence of which the yarn is called “ water- twist ”), was the invention of Arkwright, and performs the twisting and winding simultaneously upon progressive portions of the roving. While in the mule the thread is drawn out and stitched till a length of about 5 ft. is attained — then the tension is completed and the spinning suspended, while the finished thread is being wound up upon the spindles into double conical coils called “ cops.” “ Throstle yarn is smooth and wiry, while the mule yarn is of a soft and downy nature. The former is usually employed for warps in heavy goods, such as fustians, cords, or for making sewing threads, and the latter for the weft in coarse goods, as well as for both warp and weft in finer fabrics.” Before Crompton invented the mule it was a great thing to spin yarn of No. 40 — it being understood that these numbers denote the respective fineness by the number of hanks which it takes to make a pound weight, each hank containing 840 yards. Arkwright, however, soon began to produce on his water frame yarn of 80 or even 100 — so did Crompton. But the amazing rapidity with which spinning has attained its perfection may be imagined by the fact that the Messrs. Houldsworth of Manchester have spun yarn of No. 460 — in other words yarn of which one pound contains 386,400 yards, or 220 miles — reaching further than the distance between London and Paris ! The throstle, which has superseded the water frame, nevertheless has the same mechanical spinning fingers. Generally speaking the number of spindles on a throstle frame 12 ft. long is 60 on each side, and one woman and an assistant piecer can manage 240 spindles. It is their duty to mind the broken ends, replace the empty bobbins in the creel with full ones, and the full bobbins on the throstle by empty ones. Introd. Lancashire . xxi In a week of 69 hours, the average quantity of yarn turned out is about 24 hanks per spindle of 300 twist. The mule is mounted with from 240 to 1000 spindles, and spins as many threads, whereas in Hargreaves’ old jenny ouly from 16 to 40 could he spun. The mule is mainly divided into two parts : L, the fixed one containing the drawing roller beam and fixed machinery ; 2, the carriage in which the spindles and moving apparatus are placed. One spinner can attend to two mules which face each other, so that he need only turn round from one mule to the other. The carriage of the one mule is thus in the act of going out spinning, while that of the other is finishing its twist. The quantity of yarn manufactured by a mule in a given time depends upon the number of the spindles, and the time taken to complete each stitch of the carriage. The finer the yarn the slower the spinning, and the better the staple of the cotton wool, and the more careful its preparation, the more excellent will be the spinning. The self-acting Mule, or Iron Man, performs nearly everything itself, and requires only some juvenile hands to piece the broken yarns, and to stop it when the cop is quite formed, which it announces itself by ringing a bell. The best known of these is Roberts’ self-actor, of which there are half a million spindles at work. These are made at Messrs. Sharp, Roberts & Co.’s factory, in Manchester. Further, the yarn is wound into hanks from the bobbins of the throstle, or the cops of the mule, by an automatic reel. The visitor who has seen all these processes in succession has followed the cotton from its raw state into one fit for weaving. A large proportion of the yarn, however, is used for making different kinds of thread, such as sewing-thread, bobbin-net, stocking- thread, &c. Ordinary sewing-thread consists of two or more single yarns laid parallel and twisted together. The fine yarns which are used for lace, usually Nos. 140 to 250, are previously subjected to the influence of a series of gas jets, by which they are slightly singed or “ gassed.” The threads, after being gassed, are then passed through a solution of weak starch, which makes them more compact and smooth. They are then doubled and twisted in machines specially adapted for them. We now come to the weaving processes, which are not so much confined to the Lancashire manufacturing towns as are those for spinning, for much of the yarn is sent to the Continent to be there wove ; and a considerable quantity is dispersed over the country districts. In many a Lancashire hamlet and village the visitor may notice the long window in the upper story of the cottage, and if he halts, may hear the clash of the weaver’s shuttle, as he pursues his work. But the handloom weaver is now fast becoming a thing of the past. “Weaving may be defined as the art of making cloth by the rectangular decussation of flexible fibres, of which the longitudinal are called the warp, or chain, and the transverse the woof, or weft. The former extends through the whole length of the web, and the latter over its breadth. The outside thread on each side of the warp, round which the woof-thread returns in the act of decussation, is called the selvage, or list.” — Ure . The first operation of weaving is “ warping,” which is done in a warping machine, and consists of laying the whole number of threads which are to xxii ii. Industrial Resources : Introd. form the warp alongside of each other in a parallel plane. A prismatic shaped cage, about 7 feet high, is turned easily round by a rope and wheel worked by the warper, and on the outside of this cage is wound the warp-yarn from top to bottom from off a frame full of bobbins mounted on spindles. Upon this operation being nicely performed, and the warp having an equal tension, depends the character of the weaving. The w r aiq:> is then taken through the “ dressing” or sizing machine, where it is subjected to a brushing with thin size, or paste ; and after undergoing this, is transferred to the weaving loom, whether hand or power loom, and this at once branches off from the plainest weaving to the most complex and brilliant patterns. Figures, or patterns, are obtained by using threads of different colours and texture, either in the warp or weft ; but for these purposes the “ draw-loom ” is most generally used, espe- cially for weaving spotted muslins, damasks, and carpets in which many brilliant colours are required. In all large factories the power-loom is used. “ In these looms steam power may be said to do everything. It unwinds the warp from the warp-beam ; it lifts and depresses the treddles, by which the warp-threads are placed in the proper position for receiving the weft- threads ; it throws the shuttle from side to side, carrying the weft-thread with it ; it moves the batten, or lay, by which the weft- thread is drawn up close ; and, finally, it winds the woven cloth on the cloth-beam which is to receive it. The female has merely to attend to a few minor adjustments, which altogether about occupy her time. A trade is carried on in Lancashire in the weaving of fustians, cords, and velveteens, which, after being woven, are steeped in hot water to take out the sizing. Special apparatus is used for raising the pile and cutting it with a peculiar knife, although in many places, such as Lymm, in Cheshire, a considerable number of persons gain their livelihood by cutting fustians by hand. An enormous number of people find employment in bleaching the woven cloth after it comes from the factory. As pure air and water were formerly the desiderata for good bleaching, nearly all the bleach-works were placed as far as possible from the towns, and on the banks of a stream in the early part of its course, before it became defiled. Jn the earlier stages of the bleaching trade, indeed, cloths were bleached simply by exposure to the atmosphere, which, of course, took days, weeks, and even months ; but the science of chemistry has advanced so fast, that a few hours now T suffice. When the bundles of cloth arrive at the works they are tacked together, till a length of several hundred yards is obtained, which is passed over a strip of heated copper, so as to singe off the loose filaments. The piece of cloth is then still further lengthened, and taken to the bleach-house, where it undergoes an immense number of successive washings and soakings in bleaching-powder liquors. The following is the process in its order : 1, washing, to get rid of the warping size; 2, boiling in lime water; 3, washing; 4, steeping in dilute ■sulphuric acid; 5, washing; 6, boiling in soda solution; 7, washing; 8, steeping in bleaching-powder solution ; 9, steeping in dilute sulphuric acid; 10, washing; 11, boiling in soda; 12, washing; 13, steeping in In trod. Lancashire. xxiii bleaching liquid ; 14, steeping in dilute acid ; 15, washing. After the cloth has undergone this monotonous manipulation, it is untacked, dried in a steam-heated room, and packed. If it has to show a nice gloss and additional smoothness, it is taken to be calendered. A vast amount of the bleached cotton wove goods is exported as plain bleached calico ; but a still larger quantity is sent to the printers , where, by a most ingenious application of the mechanical and chemical arts, it becomes impressed with every variety of pretty colours and patterns. Calico- printing is, in fact, 'the art of producing a pattern on cotton cloth by printing in colours, or mordants, which become colours when afterwards dyed. Linen, silk, wool, &c., are all adapted for printing, but linen does not take such good colours, in consequence of the small affinity that flax has for mordants. Printing was first begun in Lancashire in 1764 by Mr. Clayton, of Bamber Bridge, near Preston. The cloth which was used was made with linen warp and cotton weft, and principally manufactured at Blackburn, which was for long the chief seat of the printing trade ; but the introduction of powerloom cloth caused it subsequently to migrate to Stockport and Staley Bridge. The Claytons were succeeded by Mr. Bobert Peel, who carried on the business at Brookside, near Blackburn ; but printing has now so enormously increased, that the weight of cotton used is one-seventh of the entire importation into this country. As in bleaching, the first step is to remove the fibrous down from the surface by passing it rapidly over a flame of gas or hot plates, the latter more frequently. The old-fashioned way of printing was by blocks, but this has been almost entirely superseded by cylinder printing, which was first invented in 1785 by the Preston firm of Livesey, Hargreaves & Co., and this was followed up in 1805 by James Burton’s invention of the mule machine, working with one or two engraved copper cylinders, and one or two wooden rollers engraved in relief. By cylinder-printing a colour or colours are rapidly printed from en- graved copper cylinders or rollers by the mere rotation of the machine. The cylinders were formerly engraved by hand, but the American plan of Mr. Perkins for transferring engraving from one surface to another, by meeans of steel roller-dies, was applied by Mr. Locke to calico-printing. 'Ey his eccentric engraving, or etching, there are produced on a varnished roller the most curious patterns by means of diamond points. All the labour required for cylinder printing is one man to regulate the rollers, and a couple of boys to supply the colours, and these three can do as much work as 200 men used to be able to turn out with blocks. Four, five, and six-colour machines are now in use, which will turn out a piece of 200 yards in a minute, each of the cylinders applying its peculiar portion of the pattern to the cloth as it passes along. The process of printing is as follows : — the pieces to be printed are wound on a beam, and last of all a few yards of common coarse cotton or calico, kept for this purpose. This is for the printer to put the pattern on, to save good cloth. The roll being put in its place behind the machine, the printer’s assistant stations himself also behind, to guide the cloth evenly and pluck off any loose threads that he may see. The master printer stands in front, and after having fitted xxiv hi. Communications : Introd. the pattern on the cloth, attends to supplying the boxes with colour, and regulating any inequality in the printing. The machine then prints rapidly. After running through thirty or forty pieces, he removes the “ doctors ” and brings them anew to a sharp bevelled edge. — lire . The “ doctors ” are thin plates of steel, for cleaning the superfluous colour from off the rollers. Printers of goods for hangings have machines capable of printing ten to twenty colours at once. At the Castleton Print Works, near Rochdale, woollen fabrics are printed with beautiful floral patterns, in imitation of the French goods. One great point to be attended to in the calico is its hygro- metric state, as dry calico does not take the colours so well as when con- taining a certain amount of moisture. This is arrived at by keeping the pieces in a large room to absorb moisture, or by passing them through an artificial mixture of air and aqueous vapour. This process is called 44 ageing.” The proper thickness of mordants and colours is also a neces- sary precaution, as a thin solution would have a tendency to run. Great sharpness of outline is produced by means of thick colour on engraved plates, under severe pressure, and when colours can be laid on the outside of the cloth, so as not to penetrate, great brightness of shade is produced. The colours are placed in ranges of pans to be boiled, and stirred mecha- nically. Thickening substances are used in the various mordants and colours, such as wheat-flour, starch, gum tragacanth, &c. Mordants, the manufacture of which, and of dye-wood decoctions, is quite a separate trade, are not colouring matters themselves, but act by combining with both the cloth and colouring matter, and, chemically speaking, they are generally acetates of iron and alumina. The following list of the principal styles of printing will give some idea of their com- plications : — 1st style, Madders ; 2nd, Garancin ; 3rd, Reserved ; 4th, Padded ; 5th, Indigo; 6 th, China Blues ; 7th, Discharge on Turbary Red Ground; 8 th Steam Colours; 9th, Spirit Colours ; 10th, Bronzes; 11th, Pigment Painting. Of all the innumerable subdivisions of labour which these great ramifi- cations of the cotton trade cause, it is impossible to give any attempt in detail. HI.— COMMUNICATIONS. The attentive student of Bradshaw, as he draws nearer to the North of England, becomes more and more alive to the difficulties of the situation, and arrives at the height of his embarrassment when he sees the intricate network which connects the manufacturing towns of Lancashire. But with a little care and arrangement, the puzzle is soon solved. Lancashire is, in fact, admirably supplied with railways, which the rapid and constant intercourse between the factory towns renders absolutely necessary, and it will be found, that nearly all the lines are in the hands of two or three companies, it being evident that only by the harmonious working of the whole would traffic be accommodated with any facility and economy. Introd. Lancashire . xxv The Companies that hold Lancashire are the London and North-Western, the Lancashire and Yorkshire, the Furness Company, the Midland, and the Cheshire lines. The London and North - Western is in great force, and carries on the trunk connection between London and the North. From Warrington and Runcorn, where it issues from Cheshire, it runs due N. to Newton, Wigan, Preston, Lancaster, and Kendal ; hut during the whole of this long lead it gives off very few branches; one from Warrington to Liver- pool, following the course of the Mersey as far as Garston. At Ditton is the junction with the main line branch from? Preston Brook, via Runcorn ; from Garston the united traffic is carried by Edgehill to Liverpool. At Widnes is a junction with the Lancashire Union Railway, and the St. Helens branch of the North-Western. There is also a very short branch from Hest Bank to Morecambe, and the Longridge Railway is worked by this Company. But, as a rule, it leaves the local traffic to local lines. The line between Manchester and Liverpool (Rte. 12), the first pas- senger line of any length opened in England, belongs to the same Company, and gives off the following branches : 1, from Eccles to Wigan via Tyldesiey ; 2, from Kenyon Junction to Leigh and Bolton ; 3, to St. Helens, from whence a newly made rly. runs to Wigan, Chorley, and Blackburn; 4, from Huy ton to Prescot, St. Helens, and Wigan. The London and North-Western also work the line between Manchester and Leeds, which quits the county at Mossley. The Lancashire and Yorkshire Company have decidedly the lion’s share of Lancashire traffic. It is difficult to say which is the main line, as they all seem to be of equal importance ; but the least embarrassing way is to divide them into E. and W. sections. The W. section starts from Liver- pool (Tithebarn Street), and (1) runs by Ormskirk to Preston and Blackburn, Burnley and Colne, giving off (2) a line to Bootle and South- port, and (3) an important branch to Wigan, Bolton, Bury, and Rochdale — thus tapping the county in its centre. (4) A cross line runs from opposite Runcorn by St. Helens and Rain ford to Ormskirk, and (5) a second cross line from Wigan to Southport. (6) From Preston runs the Wyre rly. to Fleetwood, giving off a (7) short branch to Lytham, and (8) another to Blackpool. The E. section has Manchester for its starting- point, connecting that city with (9) Bolton, Chorley, and Preston, and sending off a short branch (10) from Horwich to Wigan. (11) From Bolton a line runs due N. to Blackburn, Whalley, and Clitheroe, while (12) another is carried from Manchester to Bury, Haslingden, and Accrington, giving off (13) a branch to Bacup and the Forest of Rossendale. One of the most important Lancashire lines is (14) that between Man- chester, Rochdale, Todmorden, and Burnley, which in its course sends off short branches to (15) Middleton, (16) Oldham, and (17) Roy ton. At Tod- morden the main line enters Yorkshire and becomes equally ubiquitous. The Cheshire Lines Committee introduce their sj^stem into the county between Partington and Cadishead, where their line from Stockport crosses the Mersey, and runs by Warrington to Liverpool; from Grazebrooke XXVI iil Communications : Introd. Junction the system is connected with Manchester and with the Lancashire Union Railways, which traverse the Lancashire coalfield, connecting it with all the ports on the Mersey. The Cheshire Lines Committee is 'composed of representatives from the Midland, the Great Northern, and Manchester, Sheffield, and Lincolnshire Companies, all of which have running powers over the system, and are thus brought into connection with Liverpool, and other towns on the extreme side of the county. The Midland Company enters the county from Yorkshire at the N.E. corner, near Hornby, and thence runs down the Yale of Lune to Lancaster and Morecambe. By means of a branch from Wenning to Carnforth, it is placed in profitable relations with the Furness Railway , which is .exceedingly interesting both in its rise and progress, its construction, and its commercial features (Rte. 19). It commences at Carnforth, and skirts the Bay of Morecambe to Ulverston and Furness Abbey. It sends off branches (1) from Ulverston to Windermere ; (2) from Dalton to Peel and Barrow ; (3) from Foxfield to Broughton and Coniston. After passing Foxfield the main line enters Cumberland, and runs to Whitehaven. These, then, are the rlys. in Lancashire, not forgetting two little attempts at rlys. — one of which connects Garstang with Pilling — and the other brings stone and a few passengers from Longridge to Preston. The rlys. in Lancashire have their peculiar social features : — The London and North-Western, for instance, is marked by its long im- portant-looking trains of through-passengers, most of whom are evidently made up for a long journey N. or S., and look upon it as a serious matter. Preston, some time about the afternoon, is the spot where these through- trains disgorge their tenants for feeding purposes, and a lively half-hour may be spent by the spectator, who is not in a hurry to dine, watching those who are. The Lancashire and Yorkshire line is devoted to cotton and coals and cheap passengers. On the various (cotton) market-days the trains are filled with spinners and manufacturers, anxiously talking over the aspects of change and the rise or fall of half a farthing in cotton. During the summer unusually long trains carry their thousands to Southport, Black- pool, Morecambe, and many other more distant places. The Furness rly. is characterised by the prevailing colour of deep red, owing to the constant succession of haematite-ore trains. The Garstang and Pilling line is marked by its having only two passenger carriages, which are generally more than enough for the traffic. Canals have been almost superseded by the railways, although, in the southern portion of Lancashire, an historical era in the fortunes of England was marked by the opening of the gigantic works of the Bridgewater Canal. For many years this canal was the great highway, not only for goods, but for people ; and it may fairly be said to have been one of the principal stimulants to the rise and progress of the cotton-trade. The greater por- tion of the Bridgewater Canal is in Cheshire, the Lancashire portion running from Manchester to Ashton, where it crosses the Mersey, and, previously to that, sending off a branch to the various collieries and underground works at Worsley, and also to the town of Leigh. The Bridgewater Canal, IntrocL. Lancashire. XXVIX however, was not actually the first made in England, precedence having been taken by the Sankey Canal , which is carried between St. Helens and the Mersey, at Fiddler’s Ferry, and the Act for which was obtained in 1755. The Leeds and Liverpool Canal is a very important water-system, and enters Lancashire near Colne, where it runs past Burnley, Blackburn, Chorley, Wigan, and Burscough. Near the latter place it is connected with the Bibble estuary by a branch to Hesketh and also with the Bridge- water Canal at Leigh. The Lancaster Canal joins Preston, Lancaster, and Kendal, sending off a short cut to the Glasson Docks. The Ashton Canal connects that town with Manchester, as also with Stockport, Oldham, Dukinfield, and the Huddersfield Canal. The Bochdale Canal connects Todmorden, Rochdale, Middleton, and Manchester with the Calder Navi- gation in Yorkshire ; and in the latter city joins the Bridgewater system, as does also the Bolton , Bury , and Manchester Canal. Lancashire is thus put into close water-communication with the Yorkshire clothing districts, and a through-navigation is opened up between the German Ocean and the Irish Sea. IV.— HISTOBY AND ANTIQUITIES. The earliest history of Lancashire, beyond that it was the district in- habited by the Brigantes, is of the most meagre description. Even old Camden found the surrey of the county too much for him, and prefaced his description of it by saying that “ after I had surveyed the far greater part of it, I found but very few things as I had wished them ; the ancient ruins seemed so much obscured by antiquity.” The Brigantes, after struggling for a considerable time against the Roman power, in the time of Caractacus, were at length followed into their fastnesses and compelled, to yield to Agricola — at which time this part of the county became a portion of the province Maxima Csesariensis. It is very singular that, notwithstanding the undoubted importance of the Roman occupation, as evinced by the remains found from time to time, antiquaries should be so much in the dark as to the position of the various stations, the only one which is accurately defined being that of Mancunium, the present Manchester. 44 Lancashire long continued to assert its Romano-British character against the Saxon invaders, as part of Strathclyde, and its extreme north-western portions afterwards re- mained attached to the independent British state of Cumberland, when the rest was divided between the Saxon states of the Mercian Confederacy (the district south of the Ribble), and the Northumbrian principality of Deira. Twenty- six of the Marks or original settlements of the Anglo- Saxons have been traced in the names of places in Lancashire. The county, of course, shared the general fate of the Saxon kingdoms between which it was partitioned during the Northman invasions, and became for some time Scandinavian in its government.” Domesday does not mention Lancashire at all, the district of what is Introd. xxviii iv. History and Antiquities : now South Lancashire, belonging to Cheshire under the title “ Inter Ripam et Mersha ”=between the Rihble and Mersey — while the northern hundreds were included in Yorkshire. The first great landholder after the Roman conquest was Roger de Poictou, third son of Roger Montgomery, who held most of the property between the Ribble and Mersey. He, however, was banished in the reign of Henry I., when the “ honor” of Lancaster was alienated from his possessions and came to the Crown. Henry III. deprived Robert de Ferrars of the “honor” as well as of the lands south of the Ribble, on account of his participation in the rebellion of Simon de Montfort, and, uniting them into one, gave them to his son Edmond Crouchback, Earl of Lancaster. His successors were created Dukes of Lancaster, a title held by John of Gaunt in 1362. But on the accession of his son Henry Bolingbroke to the throne, the Duchy Palatine became attached to the Crown, where it has ever since remained. At the same date at which this arrangement was made, certain courts were established which have held more or less jurisdiction down to the present time — such as the “ Duchy Court, in which all questions of revenue and council affecting the Duchy possessions might be decided. This Court is now held in the Duchy Office in Westminster. This is also a Court of Appeal from the Chancery of the County Palatine of Lancaster, which is a Court of Equity for matters of equity arising within the county, and is held (by the Vice Chancellor) at Preston. In the Duchy Court the King is presumed to be not only present, but personally acting through his Chancellor and inferior officers.” The middle ages were productive of a good deal of disquiet to Lancashire, principally at the hands of the Scots, who, under Robert Brace, ravaged the northern portions of it as far as Preston. The Furness district, too, was in the reign of Henry VII. the scene of the great gathering under the Earl of Lincoln and Lord Lovel, who combined with the Abbots of Furness and Sir Thomas Broughton to raise a rebellion in favour of the so-called Earl of Warwick, Lambert Simnel. The Reformation was the period at which the hearts of Lancashire men were most stirred up, and which caused an ebullition that happened in no other part of England. The old families of the county were (as many are still) staunch Catholics, while most of the clergy were Protestants only in name, according to the Act of Supremacy. “ But in the south-east of Lancashire the Reformation speedily obtained great strength, and from its commencement assumed a Puritanical form and character. The busy traders and manufacturers of Salfordshire, having formed mercantile con- nections in Holland and Germany, became acquainted with the great changes which had been so wonderfully wrought in the religion of those countries. Better educated than their rustic neighbours, and having more money to spare and more opportunity to spend it, they purchased books, conversed with foreigners, occasionally travelled to Continental fairs, knew more than their priests, prided themselves on a standing independence of thought, and became, many of them, firm and zealous adherents of the Reformation.” — Halley. When the storm burst, Lancashire soon ranged itself into respective sides, and for many years the county was tho scene Introd. Lancashire . XXIX of much bloodshed and internal division. There was scarcely a town or village but was the scene of some skirmish or siege during the Civil Wars, in which Bolton, Manchester, Liverpool, Preston, and Lancaster played the most conspicuous parts. In several ways the results of that great contest impressed indelible marks on the nature of the inhabitants, and even to this day the county contains a very large section of Boman Catholic families, while, on the other hand, the bulk of the population is characterised by a decidedly Evangelical tendency. The Roman remains in Lancashire have been at various times numerous and interesting. The towns which existed at that era were — Mancunium or Mamucium, identified with Manchester. Coccium, sup- posed to be identical with Ribchester, though others, on the authority of Richard de Cirencester, have placed it at Rivington, near Blackrod. The locality of Bremetonacis is considered to have been at Over Burrow, which is on the extreme northern border of the county, near Kirkby Lonsdale. Others, however, place it at Lancaster. Colunio is supposed to be represented by Colne. ? The remains at Mancunium (Rte. 2) have been exceedingly well defined, and leave no doubt as to its position. Ribchester (Rte. 7), too, whether Coccium or not, has yielded enough to show that it was an, important Roman station. Over Burrow (Rte. 18) is clearly a Roman station, but it is not im- probable that it might have been nothing more than a castrum aestivum, and that the more important town of Bremetonacis lay at Lancaster (Rte. 17), where a great many remains have been found. The Roman roads are with difficulty traced, except by their names. Mancunium was a great centre, from which ran roads to Condate (Kinderton in Cheshire), Yeratinum (Wilderspool, opposite Warrington), Melandra Castle (near Glossop), Aquis of Ravenna (Buxton), and Coccium (Rib- chester). Of Camps and earthworks there are very few in Lancashire, which, con- sidering the nature of the county, especially in its northern part, is a singular fact. The only remains of Roman camps are at Over Burrow (Rte. 18), and Mellor (Rte. 7), near Blackburn, which evidently lay on the road between Mancunium and Coccium. The Dykes (Rte. 6), near Bacup, is a fine work, most probably of Anglo-Saxon date. There are also slight vestiges of an intrenchment at Cuerdley (Rte. 13), near Widnes. Mediaeval Buildings . — There are very few Castles in Lancashire, and still fewer of any size or extent, the greater part consisting of little more than a single tower. Of Rochdale only the castle mound exists. Route 19. Arnside Tower. 7. Clitheroe Castle. Modernised. 19. Gleaston. 14th century. 17. Greenhalgh. Henry VII. 19. Heslop Tower. xxx IV. History mid Antiquities : Introd. Route 17. Lancaster. Time of Edward III., modernised and incorporated with the Gaol. 19. Peel of Fouldrey. Edward III. 5. Radclyffe Tower. Henry IV. Ecclesiastical Remains. — Lancashire is rich in these, especially in the matter of churches, many of which are of considerable size and beauty. Time and fanaticism have played great havoc with the religious houses, of some of which only the site is left — such as Hornby Priory. Only a few pillars are standing of Burscough Priory (Rte. 15), founded in the reign of Richard I. ; of Windleshaw Abbey (Rte. 13), which indeed was only an abbey by courtesy, being in reality little more than a chapel ; or of Uphol- land Priory (Rte. 11), founded in the reign of John. Cockersand Abbey (Rte. 17) has its chapter-house left. Whalley Abbey (Rte. 7) is in a terribly fragmentary condition, although enough has been rescued from oblivion to show its extent, and to give us an idea of its magnificence. The beautiful E. E. ruins of Furness Abbey (Rte. 1 9) make amends for much deficiency, for in splendour and extent they rank amongst the most cele- brated abbey remains in England. The following are the Churches most deserving of a visit : — Route 19. Aldingham. Norman. Windows. 8. Altbam Church. Stained glass. Font. 3. Ashton-under-Lyne. 15th century. Stained glass. Monuments. 15. Aughton. 16th century. Monuments. 19. Bardsea. Modern. Stained glass. 16. Bispham. Chalice. 7. Blackburn. Modem. Windows. St. Peter’s. Altar-piece. 10. Blackrod. 7. Bolton. Modern. 20. Bowness. Stained glass. 21 Broughton. 16th century. Restored. 8. Burnley. Edward III. Towneley Monuments. 5. Bury. Very fine. Rebuilt. St. John’s. Screen. 19. Cartmel Priory Church. Splendid old church of mixed styles from Transition- Norm, to late Perp. Oak seats. Monuments. 19. Chapel Island Oratory. Norman. Ruins. 12a. Childwall. Brasses. Curious paintings. 16. Chipping. 16th century. Font. 10. Chorley. Oak carving. Stained glass. 18. Claughton Church. Old bell. 13th century. 7. Clitheroe. Monuments. Stained glass. ' 8. Colne. 16th century. Screen. Latin inscription. 19. Dalton. Norman. Font. 9. Eccles. Very fine church. 14th century. Chapels. Monuments. Introcl. Lancashire . XXXI Route 15. Eccleston. Stained glass. Effigy. Old pews. 12a. Flixton. Norman. Brass. 17. Garstang. (Churchtown.) Windows. Stalls. Screen. Lady Chapel. Monuments. 18. Gressingham. Norman. Doorway ; fine specimen. 18. Halton. Early cross. 5. Haslingden. 11th century. Font. Window. 21. Hawkshead. E. Norman. 18. Hey sham. Very interesting little church. Brass. Norman oratory. 15. Hoole. Brass. Window. 18. Hornby. Octagonal tower. Norman. 12. Huyton. Norman. Screen. Hammerbeam roof. Brass. Carved Pulpit. 11. Kirkby. Norman. Font. 21. Kirkby Ireleth. Perp. Doorway. 16. Kirkham. Monuments. 17. Lancaster. Stained glass. Norman. Wood carvings. 9. Leigh. Tudor. 1. Leyland. Singular aisles. Stained glass. Blackletter books. Piscina. 14. Liverpool — St. Nicholas. St. Peter’s. Altar-piece. Chapel of Blind School. Paintings. 15. Lydiate. Henry VIII. 16. Lytham. (St. John’s.) Modern stained glass. 15. Maghull. Screen. Pulpit. Stalls. Monuments. 2. Manchester — Cathedral. Perp. General effect. Monuments. St. John’s. Paintings. Stained glass. St. Peter’s. Altar-piece, and medallions. 18. Melling. Perp. Stained glass. Monuments. Hagioscope. • 4. Middleton. 16th century. Stained glass. Chapels. Monuments. 7. Mitton. Screen. Monuments. Sherborne Chapel. 21. Newfield. 14. North Meols. Monument by Nollekens . 15. Ormskirk. Perp. Singular duplicate tower. Chapel. Monuments. N. window. 17. Overton. Norman. Doorway. 7. Padiham. Font. Handsome modern appearance, 16. Pen wortham. Monuments. 16. Poulton. 17th century. Monuments. 12. Prescot Church. Fine general appearance. Monuments?' 7. Prestolee. Modern. Stained glass. 16. Preston. Dec. Stained glass. 18. Quernmore. Dec. Stained glass. 5. Badcliffe. Norman. S. transept 13th century. Stained glass. 7. Ribchester. Screen. Monuments. Pulpit. E. window. 4. Rochdale. Debased Dec. Monuments. Stained glass. XXX11 iv. History and Antiquities : Introd. Route 15. Rufford. Monuments. Font. 15. Sephton. Monuments. Brasses. Stalls. 17. St. Michael-on- Wy re. Chapels. 13. Skelmersdale. Monuments. 1. Standish. 16th century. Monuments. 7. Stidd. Norman arch. Font. 18. Tunstall. Monuments. 19. Ulverston. Very fine church. Partly of 12th century and partly of time of Henry VIII. Monuments. Painting. 11. Upholland. Fine old church. c Brasses. Windows. Ruins of Priory. 19. Urswick. Monuments. Windows. Brasses. Piscina. Key. 15. Walton, Liverpool. Font. Monuments. 16. Walton, Preston. Monuments. Stained glass. 1. Warrington. General appearance. Monuments. Stained glass. Crypt. 17. Warton. 14th century. Sedilia. Font. 7. Whalley* Dec. and Perp. Stalls. Carving. Stained glass. Monu- ments. Bews Cross. 1. Wigan. Fine general appearance. Monuments. Bradshaigh Chapel. E. window. Ancient Tapestry. 1. Winwick. Perp. Carving. Monuments. Brasses. 9. Worsley. Modern. Monuments. Of old mansions and houses — principally of timber-and-plaster — Lanca- shire possesses a great choice and variety ; and, generally speaking, they are in better preservation than those of Cheshire, in which county by far the larger portion are occupied as farmhouses. Route 8. Accrington Grange. 10. Adlington Hall. 5. Agecroft Hall. Elizabethan. Timber-and-plaster. A splendid example. 7. Alley, Clitheroe. 8. Altham Hall. Farmhouse. 13. Ashurst Hall. Gateway. Farmhouse. 3. Ashton Old Hall. 10. Astley Hall. Elizabethan. 1. Bamfurlong Hall. Moated. Farmhouse. 15. Bank Hall. Elizabethan. 4. Barcroft. 16th century. 8. Barnside. 7. Bashall. 17th century. 3. Bestal. Ashton-under-Lyne. 12a. Barton Old Hall. Farmhouse. Going to ruins. 1. Bewsey Hall. Elizabethan. Moated. 19. Bi gland Hall. Farmhouse. 12. Bold Hall. James I. Moated. Xntrod. Lancashire . Koute 17. Bowers. Farmhouse. “ Priesthole.” 18. Borwick Hall. 1559. 1. Bradley Hall. Farmhouse. Moated. 11. Bradshaw Hall. 17th century. 5. Brandlesholme Hall. Bichard II. 17. Broughton Tower. Farmhouse. 21. Broughton Tower. 7. Browsholme. 17th century. 3. Buckley Hall. 1618. 17. Capernwray Hall. Farmhouse. 19. Cark Hall. 16th century. 4. Castleton Hall. 17th century. 4. Chadderton Hall. Charles II. 4. Chadwick Hall. Edward III. 9. Chanters. Atherton. 2. Chetham Hospital. 17th century. 2. Chorlton Hall. 3. Cinderland Hall. 18. Claughton Old Hall. Henry VII. 4. Clegg Hall. 17th century. Alehouse. 16. Clifton Hall. 21. Coniston Hall. 15th century. Farmhouse. 5. Cob House. 17th century. 16. Cottam. Elizabethan. 15. Cuerdale Hall. 1700. Farmhouse. 8. Dane’s House. 11. Darcy Lever Hall. Timber-and-plaster. Priest-Hole. 10. Duxbury Hall. 8. Emmott Hall. 7. Entwistle Hall. Farmhouse. 15th century. 8. Extwistle Hall. 16th century. 8. Fulledge. Farmhouse. 7. Gawthorpe Hall. Elizabethan. 15. Grad wells. Farmhouse. 20. Graythwaite Hall. Elizabethan. 12a. Great Woolden Hall. Farmhouse. 1. Haigh Hall. 13. Hale Hall. 17th century. 7. Hall-i’-th’-Wood. 17th century. 21. Hawkshead Hall. 21. Hawkshead Town Hall. 16. Hesketh End. Farmhouse. 8. Heysandforth. Edward II. Farmhouse. 8. Hoghton Tower. Elizabethan. 7. Higham Court House. 8. High Biley. Henry VIII. Farmhouse. 5. Holden Hall. 13th century. {Lancashire.'] xxxiii c XXXIV iv. History and Antiquities : Introd. Route 8. Hollins. 4. Holme. 15th century. 9. Hope Car. Moat. 18. Hornby Castle. Henry VIII. 7. Horrocksford Hall. 17th century. Farmhouse. 7. Huntroyde. Inigo Jones. 4. Hurst Wood. 13. The Hutt. Ruins. Moated. 1. Ince Hall. Elizabethan. 12a. Irlam Hall. Elizabethan. 9. Kempnall Hall. Timber-and-plaster. 16th century. 9. Kenyon Peel Hall. Timber-and-plaster. 17th century. 5. Kersal Cell. 21. Kirkby Hall. Tudor. 8. Knuzden Hall. 8. Langroyd Hall. 16. Lea Hall. 14th century. 1. Leyland Hall. Elizabethan. Farmhouse. 7. Little Bolton Hall. 1600. 10. Lostock Hall. Timber-and-plaster. 7. Lovely Hall. Old furniture. Cross. 15. Lydiate Hall. Old furniture and panelling. 16. Mains Hall. Elizabethan. 15. Maudesley Hall. 17th century. Farmhouse. 1. Meadows, Wigan. Elizabethan. 7. Mearley Hall. 17th century. 17. Michael’s Hall. Farmhouse. 7. Mitton Hall. Baronial hall. 9. Morleys Hall. 16th century. 17. Myerscough Lodge. James I. Farmhouse. 17. Nateby Hall. Farmhouse. 1. Newton Old Hall. Timber-and-plaster. Farmhouse. 14. North Meols Hall. 5. Nuttall Hall. Richard II. 4. Oaken Rod Hall. 4. Ormerod. 16th century. 11. Orrel Hall. Elizabethan. 7. Osbaldeston Hall. Moated. Farmhouse. 17. Out Rawcliffe Hall. 17th century. 7. Pendle Hall. 7. Pendleton Hall. Farmhouse. 4. Pike House. Elizabethan. 9. Platt Fold. 17th century. 8, Pleasington Old Hall. Elizabethan. 16. Redscar Hall. Elizabethan. 16. Rossall Hall. Now a school. 7. Rough Lee, Introd. Lancashire . xxxv Route 8. Rowley Hall. 16th century. 8. Royle. 17th century. 3. Royton Hall. 15. Rufford Old Hall. Elizabethan. Timber-and-plaster. 7. Sabden Hall. Farmhouse. 7. Salesbury Hall. Elizabethan. Ruin. 7. Samlesbury Hall. Timber-and-plaster. 12a. Shaw Hall. James I. 8. Shuttleworth Hall. James I. 7. Smithills Hall. Henry VII. Splendid example. 11. Speke Hall. 16th century. Timber-and-plaster. Moated. 4. Spencer’s House. 4. Steanor. Old inscribed house. 19. Swarthmoor Hall. 17th century. 7. Symondstone Hall. 18. Thurland Castle. 16th century. Moated. 4. Todmorden Hall. 16th century. 4. Towneley. 16th century. 16. Tulketh Hall. 7. Turton Tower. 12a. Urmston Hall. Elizabethan. Timber-and-plaster. Farmhouse. 19. Urswick Hall. Farmhouse. 9. Wardley Hall. Edward VI. Timber-and-plaster. Moated. 17. Warton Rectory. Henry VIII. 7. White Lee. 13th century. Farmhouse. 3. Woodhouses. Timber-and-plaster. 9. Worsley Hall. Timber-and-plaster. 19. Wraysholme Tower. Farmhouse. 15. Wrightington Old Hall. Elizabethan, Timber. 8. Wycoller Hall. 9. Yates Peel Hall. 18th century. The finest Seats are to be found as follows, though several of the most interesting in the county are already included in the last list, on account of their antiquity, such as Bold, Gawthorpe, Haigh, Hornby, Ormerod, and Towneley : — Route 17. Ashton Hall. 19. Conishead Priory. 12. Croxteth Park. 8. Cuerden Park. 8. Fenniscowles. 5. Heaton Park. 19. Holker Hall. 19. Hulton Park. 7. Huntroyde. 14. Ince Blundell. 12. Knowsley Park. Route 15. Lathom. 18. Quernmore Park. 15. Rufford Hall. 15. Scarisbrick Hall. 10. Shawe Hill. 20. Storrs Hall. 17. Thurnham. 9. Trafford Park. 9. Worsley Hall. 20. Wray Castle. XXXVI v. Places of Interest. V.— PLACES OF INTEREST. Introd. Warrington. Church. Educational Institution. Museum. Bewsey Hall. Boman Station at Wilderspool. Winwick Church. St. Oswald’s Well. Old Houses. Newton. Old Hall. Castle Hill. Bradley Hall. Wigan. Church. Kirkless Hall Iron Works. Collieries. Haigh Hall. Old Houses. Tyldesley Obelisk. Mab’s Cross. Meynes Park. Boman Catholic Chapel at Westwood. Ince Hall. Standish. Church. Hall. Arley Hall. Euxton. Duxbury Park. Euxton Hall. Church. Leyland. Church. Hall. Chorley. Church. Boman Catholic Chapel. Astley Hall. Whittle Springs. Adlington. Bivington Church and Village. Liverpool Beservoirs. Dean Wood. Bivington Pike. Bolton. Church. Town Hall. Cotton Factories. Crompton Statue. Smithills Hall. Little Bolton. Hall-i’-th’-Wood. Bingley Church. Darcy Lever Hall. Bradshaw Hall. Manchester. Infirmary. Boyal Exchange. Assize Courts. Town Hall. Manchester and Salford Bank. Free Trade Hall. Natural His- tory Museum. Boyal Institution. Athenaeum. Memorial Hall. Che- tham Hospital and Library. Cathedral. Owens College. Blind Asylum. Botanic Gardens. St. John’s. St. Peter’s. Boman Catholic Church of St. John. Peel Park and Museum. Queen’s Park. Phillips Park. Hulme Park. Zoological Gardens. Pomona Gardens. Theatres. Concert Hall. Cotton Factories. Watt’s Warehouses. Swinton Industrial Schools. Agecroft Hall. Clayton Bridge. Clayton Hall. Fairfield Moravian Village. Ashton. Church. Infirmary. Old Hall. Bestal. Stamford Park. Staley Bridge. Mills. Wild Bank. Buckley Hall. Mossley. Hartshead. Bucton Castle. Oldham. Town Hall. Messrs. Platts’ Works. School of Art. Blue- coat School. Middleton. Church. Schwabe’s Print Works. Chadderton Hall. Hopwood Hall. Hey wood. Scenery of the Boch. Bochdale. Church. Town Hall. Grammar School. Castleton Hall. Buckley Hall. Clegg Hall. Healey Hall. Valley of the Spodden. The Thrutch. Tyrone’s Bed. Whitworth Church. Wolstenholme Hall. Oaken wood Hall. Littleborough. Hollingworth Lake. Blackstone Edge. Pike House. Old House at Steanor Bottom. Todmorden. Scenery of the Calder Valley. Waterside Cotton Mills. Todmorden Hall. Stanfield Hall. Stoodley Hill. Holme. Scenery of the Cli verger “ Cloughs.” The Holme. Long Causeway and Crosses. Ormerod. Bar croft. Towneley Hall. In trod. Lancashire . XXXVII Radcliffe. Church. Tower. Bury . Church. Peel Statue. Brandlesholme Hall. Stand Church. Ramsbottom. Holcombe Hill. Peel Tower. Print Works. Haslingden. Church. Bacup. Forest of Eossendale. The Dykes. Source of the Irwell. Walk to Burnley. Thieveley Pike. Chapel Town. Turton Tower. Chetham’s Close. Over Bar wen. St. John’s Church. India Mills. Blackburn. Church. Old Church Tower. Town Hall. Corporation Park. Billinge Hill. Samlesbury Hall. Ribchester. Church. Osbaldeston Hall. Whalley. Abbey Ruins. Church. Nab Side. Mitton Hall and Church. Stony hurst College. Scenery of the Hodder. Padiham. Gaw- thorpe Hall. Clitheroe. Castle. Church. The Abbey. Pendle Hill. Mearley Hall. Bashall. Browsholme. Whitewell. Scenery of the Hodder Valley and Bowland. Chatburn. Waddington Hall. Horrocksford Hall. Downham. Sawley Abbey. Colne. Church. Emmott Hall. Barnside. Wycoller. Burnley. Church. Towneley Hall. Extwistle Hall. Rowley. Hurst- wood. Pleasington. Fenniscowles. Hoghton. Tower. Bccles. Church. Monk’s Hall. Worsley. Church. Village. Worsley Hall. Bridgewater Canal. Col- lieries. Walkden Moor Memorial. Wardley Hall. Kempnall Hall. Leigh. Church. Dean. Church. Patricroft . Nasmyth’s Works. Barton Old Hall. Irlam Hall. Shaw Hall. Flixton Church. Urmston Church and Hall. Chatmoss. Bury Lane. Woolden Hall. St. Helens. Bold Hall. Windleshaw Abbey. Glass Works. Prescot. Church. Knowsley Hall. Huy ton Church. Widnes. Chemical and Alkali Works. Viaduct over the Mersey. Farnworth. Church. Hale. Church. Decoy Hall. Hutt ruins. Speke. Hall. Liverpool. Custom House. St. George’s Landing Stage. Sailors’ Home. Town Hall. Exchange. St. George’s Hall. Institution. Royal Institution. St. Peter’s Church. St. Nicholas’ Church. Theatre. Zoological Gardens. Art Gallery. Educational Establishments. Waterloo. The Sands. Crosby. Roman Catholic Church. Ince Blundell. School-buildings. Southport . Sands. Pier. Atkinson Free Library. Art Gallery. Aquarium. Maghull. Sephton Church. Lydiate Chapel. Ormskirk. Church. Burscough Priory. Lathom House. xxxviii Introd. y. Places of Interest : Rujford. Old Hall. Church. Croxton. Hall and Chapel. Eccleston Church. Gradwell’s Farm. Bank Hall. Preston . Town Hall. Scenery of Kibble. Penwortham Church. Koman Catholic Churches. Literary Institute. Miller Park. Avenham Park. Moor Park. Walton Church. Longridge Quarries. Lea Hall. Cottam. Kirkham . Church. Roman Catholic Church. Lytham. Church. Clifton Hall. Poulton . Church. Bispham Church. Blackpool . Cliffs. Pier. Kossall School. Fleetwood . Views over Morecambe. Pilling Moss. Port. Broughton. Church. Garstang. Aqueduct. Church. Greenhalgh Castle. Lancaster. Castle. Church. Roman Catholic Church. Grammar School. Lunatic Asylum. Bleasdale Fells. Ripley’s Hospital. More- cambe. Hey sham Church and Oratory. Cockersand Abbey. Sunderland. Glasson Docks. Ealton. Aqueduct. Quernmore Park and Church. Caton. Scenery of the Lune and Artie Beck. Ravenscar Hill. Hornby . Church. Castle. Milling. Church. Thurland Castle. Tunstall Church. Carnforth . Ironworks. Yealand Conyers. Silverdale. Scenery of the Bay. Arnside. Tower. Heslop Tower. Arnside Knot. Whitbarrow Scar. Grange. Holm Island. Yewbarrow. Hempsfell. Cartmell Church. Humphrey Head. Cark. Holker Hall. Chapel Island. Ulverston. Barrow Moor. Church. Sir J. Barrow’s Birthplace. Swart- moor Hall. Iron Mines. • Conishead Priory. Bardsea Hall. Birkrigg. Aldingham Church. Urswick Church. Gleaston Castle. Dalton. Church. Lindal Mines. Furness. Abbey. Barrow . Island. Docks. Steel Works. Peel of Fouldrey. Newby Bridge . Scenery of the Leven and Crake. Colton. Winder- mere. Graythwaite Hall. Storrs Hall. Bowness . Church. Curwen’s Island. Scenery of the Lakes. Askham. Quarries. Broughton . Tower. Church. Scenery of the Duddom The Stepping- Stones. Cockley Beck. Dunnerdale. Coniston. Lake. Old Man. Copper Mines. Yewdale. Tilber- thwaite. Eawkshead. Church. Town Hall. Hawkshead Hall. Esthwaite Water. Wray Castle. Brathay. Introd. Lancashire . xxxix VI.— SKELETON TOUR. (To be varied according to pleasure .) (The places marked in Italics are the best for Head-quarters.) Days. 1. See Liverpool, Docks, and public buildings. 2. Finish exploration of Liverpool. Afternoon, by rail to Speke Hall, Widnes, and Warrington. 3. See Warrington Church, Bewsey Hall, Winwick Church, Newton, and by rail to Wigan. 4. See Wigan. By rail to Upholland, thence to St. Helens, Prescot, Huy ton, and Liverpool. 5. By rail to Southport. Afternoon to Burscough Priory, and sleep at Ormskirk. 6. From Ormskirk by rail to Wigan and Tyldesley. See Worsley and Kempnall Halls ; Eccles Church. In evening to Manchester. 7 and 8. Spend at Manchester. 9. By rail to Ashton-under-Lyne and Staley Bridge, returning to Manchester. 10. Manchester by rail to Oldham and Middleton. In afternoon to Rochdale , where sleep. 11. Scenery of the Koch ; Hollingsworth Lake. Scenery of the Calder Y alley. Sleep at Todmorden. 12. Scenery of Cliviger, The Holme, Burnley. Sleep at Oolne. 13. Keturn to Burnley by rail. Walk over Rossendale to Bacup ; thence by rail to Ramsbottom and Holcombe. Sleep at Bury. 14. See Radcliffe Tower, and by rail to Bolton. See Smithills Hall and Hall-i’-th’-Wood. Sleep at Bolton. 15. By rail to Adlington. See Reservoirs, and ascend Rivington Pike. Evening, by train from Bolton to Blackburn. 16. See Blackburn and Samlesbury Hall. Afternoon, by train to Whalley. See Church and Abbey. Sleep at Whalley. 17. Drive or walk to Mitton and Stonyhurst, returning to Clitheroe. A fternoon, excursion to Horrocksford or Mearley Halls. 18. By rail to Cbatburn. See Sawley Abbey. In afternoon, excursion to Pendle Hill. 19. Walk or drive from Clitheroe to Whitewell, returning to Longridge, where take the train to Preston. 20. Preston by rail to Rufford and Croxton. In afternoon, by rail to Lytham and Blackpool , where sleep. 21. By rail to Fleetwood, returning to Preston , where spend the remainder of the day. 22. From Preston by rail to Lancaster. 23. From Lancaster by rail to Morecambe. Excursion to Heysliam. In afternoon, excursion by rail from Morecambe to Hornby, returning to Lancaster to sleep. xl vii. Antiquarian Tour : Introd. Days. 24. Excursion to the Trough of Bolland, over Wyresdale. 25. From Lancaster to Carnforth by rail, and branch off to Melling. Excursion to Tunstall and Kirkby Lonsdale. Sleep at Grange. 26. See Cartmel Church and Holker Hall. Sleep at Ulverston. 27. Excursion to Conishead, Gleeston, Urswick, &c. 28. Bail to Dalton : Iron-mines. Afternoon, to Furness Abbey. 29. See Barrow Works and Docks; Peel of Fouldrey. Afternoon, by train to Kirkby Ireleth (quarries) and Broughton , where sleep. 30. Excursion up the Duddon Valley and (if a pedestrian) over Walna Scar to Coniston . 31. Ascend Coniston Old Man. Explore the Lake. 32. From Coniston to Hawkshead, Esth waite, and Ambleside. 33. By steamer to Bowness, Newby Bridge , and the Valley of the Leven. VII.— ANTIQUARIAN TOUR. ( The Places in Italics are the best Centres from which to explore.) Days. 1. Manchester . Cathedral. High School. Old Houses. Chetham Hos- pital. Old halls in the neighbourhood. 2. Ashton-under-Lyne Church. Old Hall. Bestal. Old houses in the neighbourhood of Staley Bridge. Bucton Castle. 3. Middleton Church. Rectory. Chadderton Hall. Rochdale Church. Grammar School. Castleton Mound and Hill. Buckley Hall. Clegg Hall. 4. Healey Hall. Whitworth Church. Wolstenholme Hall. Chadwick Hall. Tyrone’s Bed. Littleborough Church. Pike House. Steanor Bottom House. Todmorden . 7. Long Causeway. Roman road over Blackstone Edge. The Holme. Ormerod. Barcroft. Townley. Burnley. 8. Burnley Church. Extwistle Hall. Rowley. Colne Church. Barnside. Wycoller. Emmott Hall. 9. Padiham Church. Gawthorpe. Huntroyde. Walk over the hills to Bacup , visiting the Dykes. 10. Bacup Church. Ramsbottom. Nuttall Hall. Brandlesholme Hall. Bury Church. Radcliffe Tower. Redvales. 11. Bolton. Smi thills Hall. Hall-i’-th’-Wood. Little Bolton. Turton Tower. Entwistle Hall. 12. Blackburn Church. Pleasington Hall. Samlesbury Hall. Hoghton Tower. 14. Ribchester Church (Roman Coccium ?). Stony hurst. Mitton Church. Whalley. 15. Whalley Abbey. Church. Wiswell Hall. Ieppe Knave Grave. Sabden. Introd. Lancashire. xli Days. 16. Clitheroe. Church. Castle. Abbey. Mearley Hall. Horrocksford Hall. Waddington Hall. Clitheroe. Sawley Abbey. Downham. 17. Bashall. Browsholme. Whitewell. Longridge. Chipping Church. Redscar. Preston. 18. Preston Church. Walton Church. Penwortham Church. Lea Hall. Cottam. Kirkharn Church. Lytham Church. Bispham Church. 19. Blackpool. Rossall Hill. Fleetwood. Return to Preston. Garstang Church. Greenhalgh Castle. Lancaster. 20. Church. Castle. Ashton Hall. Thurnham. Hey sham Church and Oratory. 21. Q.uernmore Church. Caton. Hornby Church and Castle. Melling Church. Thurland Castle. Tunstall Church. Borwick Hall. Capernwray Hall. 22. Grange. Arnside Tower. Heslop Tower. Cartmel Church. Holker Hall. Chapel Island. JJlverston Church. 23. Swarthmoor Hall. Bardsea Hall. Aldingham Church. Gleaston Castle. Urswick Church. 24. Dalton Church and Castle. Furness Abbey. Peel of Fouldrey. 25. Broughton Tower. Coniston Church. Hawkshead Church. Town Hall and Hall. Amhleside. 26. Bowness Church. Return by rail to Preston. Rufford Hall. Cro- ston Hall. Gradwells. Eccleston Church. 27. Leyland Church. Euxton Hall. Standish Church. Wigan. Church. Old houses. Haigh Hall. Ince Hall. Old Halls between Golborne and Wigan. 28. Leigh Church. Kenyon Peel Hall. Wardley Hall. Kempnall Hall. Worsley Hall. Monk’s Hall. Eccles Church. Sleep at Manchester. 29. Old halls on the banks of the Mersey. Flixton Church. Urmston Church. Shaw Hall. Urmston Hall. Newton old Hall. Castle Hill. Winwick Church. 30. Warrington Church. Wilderspool Station. Bewsey Hall. Cuerden Earthworks. Farnworfch Church. Bold Hall. St. Helens . Win- dleshaw Abbey. 31. Skelmersdale Church. Lathom. Burscough Priory. Ormskirk Church. Lydiate Chapel. Maghull Church. Liverpool. 32. Liverpool Churches. Ince Blundell. Huy ton Church. Speke Hall. Hale Hall. VIIL— PEDESTRIAN TOUR. Tour 1. From Glossop, to Bucton Castle and Mossley Stat. 8 m. By rail to Rochdale . Scenery of the Roch. 2. Rochdale, to Littleborough and Blackstone Edge, and thence to Tod- morden. About 12 m. 3. Explore Cliviger, and to Burnley by the Long Causeway, about 12 m. [. Lancashire .] d xlii ix. Pedestrian Tour . IntrotL Tour 4. To Cobie, over Boulsworth Hill and Forest of Trawden. About 12 m. Back by rail to Burnley. 5. From Burnley, over Rossendale Forest to Bacup, 10 m. ; thence by rail to Ramsbottom Walk over Holcombe Moor to Darwen Stat., about 7 or 8 m. By rail to Blackburn. 6. Blackburn to Ribchester, 7 m., and on by Hurst Green and Stony- hurst to Whatley , 6 m. 7. Whalley, by Sabden, and over Pendle Hill to Sawley Abbey, about 11 m., to Chatburn 2 m., and thence by rail to Clitheroe. 8. Clitheroe to Whitewell, 9 m., and Lancaster, over the Trough of Bolland. The total distance is 25 or 26 m., and, if too far, a halt can be made at Whitewell, 19 m. 9. Lancaster, by Quernmoor and Artie Beck, to Hornby. Thence by Tunstall to Kirkby Lonsdale . 10. Kirkby Lonsdale across Hutton Roof Crag to Burton, and by Yealand Conyers to Grange. 15 m. 11. Grange to Newby Bridge, Grayth waite and Hawkshead. About 15 m. 12. Hawkshead to Coniston. Ascend the Old Man. About 10 m. 13. Coniston, over Walna Scar, to Seath waite, and descend the Duddon to Broughton. About 15 m. 14. Broughton, to Dalton and Furness Abbey. About 12 m. 15. Excursion round the Furness peninsula. Two days may be well employed ; 30 m. is the least distance. HANDBOOK FOR LANCASHIRE. ROUTES. *** The names of places are printed in italics only in those routes where the ‘places are described. ROUTE PAGE 1 Warrington to Preston, by New- ton and Wigan .... 1 2 Stockport to Manchester k t 11 3 Manchester to Oldham , by Ash- ton-under- Lyne . . . .31 4 Manchester to Burnley, by Middle - * ton , Rochdale , and Todmorden . 39 5 Manchester to Accrington, by Bury and Haslingden ... 48 6 Bury to Burnley, by Bacup and j Rossendale 54 7 Manchester to Olitheroe , by i?o/- Blackburn , and Whalley . 58 8 Preston to Colne, by Blackburn, Accrington, and Burnley . . 80 9 Manchester to Wigan, by ifccfes and Tyldesley ..... 85 10 Manchester to Preston, by Bolton and Chorley . . .. . .93 11 Rochdale to Liverpool, by Bury, Bolton, and Wigan ... 96 ROUTE PAGE 12 Manchester to Liverpool, by New- ton and Prescot . . . . 99 12a Manchester to Liverpool, by Glaze- brook and Warrington . . . 107 13 Warrington to Liverpool, by Wid- nes, Speke, and Garston . .109 14 Liverpool to Southport . . .112 15 Liverpool to Preston, by Orms - kirk . 132 1 6 Preston to Fleetu ood, by Lytham and Blackpool 140 17 Preston to Kendal, by Lancaster 151 1 8 Morecambe to Carnforth J unction, by Wennington . . . .161 1 9 Carnforth to Barrow , by L Iverston and Furness Abbey • . . .165 20 Ulverston to Ambleside, by Newby Bridge and Bowness . . .182 21 Furness Junction to Ambleside, by Broughton , Coniston , and Hawkshead . . . . . 186 ROUTE 1. WARRINGTON TO PRESTON, BY NEWTON AND WIGAN. Warrington (Hotels : Lion; Patten Arms ; there are two Inns in antique wood and plaster, The [. Lancashire .] Fox and The Barley Mow), one of the most asncient towns in Lan- cashire, is a parliamentary borough returning one member since the Reform Act of 1832. It is most irregular in the disposition of its four chief streets, the two principal of which form the great highways between Liverpool and Manchester B 2 Route 1 . — Warrington — Banlc Hall. in the one direction, North wich and Wigan in the other. Its situation on rising ground, on the rt. bank of the Mersey, which here flows in a succession of curves, is not unpic- turesque. The narrowness of its old streets gives it a somewhat antiquated appearance. Still Warrington pos- sesses some buildings of fine archi- tectural merit, and one, at least, of more than ordinary interest, viz. the * Church, which was founded before the Conquest, as we learn from Domesday, where we read that “ Sanctus Elfin ” (a saint not men- tioned in any martyrology) held a carucate there. It was beautifully restored between 1859 and 1867, from designs of Messrs. Francis , and is in eveiy way worthy of a visit. It is one of the largest parish chs. in the diocese, and consists of nave, chancel, chapels, and aisles, the N. aisle being one of the additions at the time of the restoration. A very lofty tower with spire (281 ft.) springs from the junction of the nave and chancel. The latter (built about 1358) is the oldest portion of the building, and underneath it is a crypt in good preservation, from whence it is said (but without any foundation) that a secret passage ex- tended for some distance from the ch. The aisles and nave are sepa- rated by lofty Pointed arches with clustered columns. The stained-glass windows are very good ; the three at the end are by Edmondson , and the others by Gibbs. They are chiefly memorial windows given by the Rec- tor, the families of Blackburne, the Lyons of Appleton, &c. The chancel has a monument to Dr. Percival, with an inscription written by Dr. Parr. The S. aisle contains a brass to a daughter of Lord Winmarleigh, and a monument in memory of his wife ; also an exquisite sculptured monu- ment to T. Wilson Patten, who died at Naples, 1819. In the N. aisle (in what was the Bewsey Chapel) is the elaborate alabaster monument of Sir John and Lady Butler. The former died in 1463. He is said to have been foully murdered at Bewsey (see post). Notice the figure of the negro, who endeavoured to save his master, although “ the fact that the heroic servant was a negro is only traditionary in the neighbourhood, it not being specified in the Bodleian MSS. Mr. Fitchett states that this faithful negro, as the last earthly reward that could be paid him, was interred with Sir John and Lady Butler in the family vault, in a small chapel belonging to them, in War- rington Ch., which now belongs to the Athertons of Atherton ; and in which the figures of the unfortunate knight and his lady are represented in alabaster, lying on a tombstone, adorned with curious sculpture. On the lady’s side of the tomb are re- presentations of female saints, and on that of the knight is one of the Trinity, bearing saints. It is evidently to this tombstone that Pennant refers in his tour, when he states that ‘ Sir Thomas (Butler), I believe the last of his name, was, with his lady, murdered in his house by assassins, who in the night crossed the moat in leathern boats or coracles to perpetrate the villainy/ ” The restoration of Warrington ch. cost about 15,242 1., it having been found that much more was required for the safety of the building than was originally believed. In the reign of Edward I., when Pope Nicholas I. in 1 292 made the taxatio ecclesiastica , Warrington ch. was the principal one in the enlarged hundred of West Derby, and head of the rural deanery of Warrington. — Halley. Bank Hall (the work of Gibbs), formerly the residence of Lord Win- marleigh, but' now the town hall , is a handsome building, and its park a healthful place of recreation. To the E. of the town stands the Clergy Orphan Institution for the 3 Boute 1 . — Warrington — Bewsey Hall. daughters of clergymen, upon the site of a large tumulus, formerly known as the Mote or Moot Hill. Its origin has been ascribed by different antiquaries to Saxon, Roman, and Norman dates ; but though various articles were found in it during the progress of excavation, such as fibulae, pottery, glass, and coins, together with two ancient chessmen, it is most probable that it was of Norman ori- gin. The Roman station existed at Wilder spool, on the Cheshire side of the river. In Domesday Warrington is men- tioned as Walintune, and was the head of a hundred which was worth, besides the demesne, 4Z. 10s. In 1643, the town was besieged by the Parliamentary forces under Colonel Ashton, and capitulated in 5 days. Educational establishments are numerous in Warrington, for, in ad- dition to the Training School, there is one supported by the Educational Society, and a large Blue-coat School founded by John Allen, in 1665 ; also a good Museum and Library, in Bold-street. From the earliest times of Lan- cashire's manufacturing reputation, Warrington has taken a lead, and especially in the production of coarse checks and linen cloth. Of this latter so large a quantity was once made at Warrington that at the time of the great American War one-half of all the sail-cloth used in the Royal Navy came from here, but the trade ceased to be carried on towards the beginning of this centy. At present its trade is more of a miscellaneous character, em- bracing iron-foundries, glass-houses, wire -works, together with cotton, spinning, and power-loom weaving. Tanning, too, is largely carried on, the greater part of the leather re- quired for army and police contracts being tanned in this town and neigh- bourhood. Nor must we forget the breweries, which are celebrated in Lancashire rhyme. “ Your doctors may boast of their lotions. And ladies talk of their tea, But 1 envy them none of their potions— A glass of good stingo for me. The doctor may sneer if he pleases, But my recipe never will fail, For the physic that cures all diseases Is a bumper of Warrington ale.” The town also had a high reputa- tion for literature and science as well as trade — for from its local press issued the first newspaper ever printed in Lancashire, together with the writings of Howard the philanthro- pist, the poems of Mrs. Barbauld, and other standard works. Amongst Warrington worthies were the Aikins (of which family was Mrs. Bar- bauld) ; W. Enfield, LL.D., author of the 4 Speaker Dr. Priestley, the che- mist; Dr. Percival, founder of the Manchester Literary and Philoso- phical Society, and author of 4 Moral and Literary Dissertations ; ’ Edward Owen, translator of J uvenal ; and Wil - liam Leland, who died in 1593, aged 140. The Warrington Academy was a famous educational establishment in the last centy., and numbered among its tutors Dr. Priestley ; Dr. Taylor, author of the Hebrew Con- cordance ; Dr. Reinhold Forster, the naturalist; and the Rev. Gilbert Wakefield, editor of Virgil with notes. Connected with the town also were Litherland, inventor Of the lever watch, and John M‘Gowan, a baker, who wrote the satirical poems of ‘ The Shaver ’ and the 4 Dialogue of Devils.' Nor must we omit from the catalogue the Lords Butler, who, says Camden, 44 ob- tained for Warrington the privi- lege of a market from Edward I." These Butlers, or Botelers, took their name from the office of 44 Bottler," which they held under Randal, Earl ©f Chester, in 1158, and by the marriage of Almeric Butler with Beatrice Villiers they became possessed of the lordship of War- rington. Their residence was at Bewsey Hall , a beautiful old man- sion, of a date rather anterior to b 2 4 J Route 1. — Or ford Hall — WinwicJc. Elizabeth, on the banks of the canal, 1J m. to the N.W. of the town. A dreadful tragedy took place here, which is thus narrated in the MSS. in the Bodleian Library: — “ Sir John Butler, knight, was slaine in his bedde, by the procurement of Lord Standiey, Sir Piers Legh, and Mister William Savage joining with him in that action (corrupting his servants), his porter setting a light in a window to give light upon the water that was about his house at Bewsey. They came over the moate in leather boates, and so to his cham- ber, where one of his servants, named Houlcrofte was slaine, being his chamberlain; the other basely be- trayed his master — they payed him a great rewarde, and so coming away with him, they hanged him at a tree in Bewsey Park.’ , This story is told at length in a well-known Lancashire ballad — “ Savage by name and nature too Piers Leigh, that pierced all too free, Joined with Lord Stanley and his crew And bought the warder’s treacherie. * * * * * The false porter craved reward For treacherous guiding in the dark ; They paid him ; then for his false guard They hung him on a tree in the park.” The infant son and heir of the Butlers is said to have been saved the dreadful fate of his father by the fidelity of a negro servant, who op- posed single-handed all the three murderers, whilst a nurse escaped with the child. It must be stated, however, that antiquaries are much in doubt as to the truth of the whole tale, as there are several anachron- isms in it, which render it quite impossible that the persons named were engaged in it, although it is very probable that some sort of tra- gedy did occur here to a former member of the Butler family. Henry VII. visited the Earl of Derby at Lathom, in honour of which, and for the Kings greater conveni- ence, ; he built the Bridge over the .Mersey. “ Whereupon lie bought a piece of land of one Norris of War- rington, by which means he was pri- vileged to .... on the other side, and so builded a bridge at Warring- ton on both sides, being his own land.” This bridge, indeed, was the cause of the alleged rupture between the Earl and Sir John Butler, who had previously enjoyed the privileges of the ferry. In Bichard’s I.’s time, however, the whole of the Mersey ferries, from Kuncorn to Tlielwall, were held by the Boydells. Near the bridge stood an Augustinian Priory, which was dissolved in Henry VIII.’s time. Orford Hall (W. Beamont, Esq.). 1 m. N.E., is noteworthy as having been the seat of Mr. Blackburne, a celebrated naturalist. He was the second man in England to cultivate the pineapple, and the first to raise British cotton in his garden, four ounces of which were made into a dress for his wife. Bail from Warrington. — ( London and North- Western to; Wigan, 13m.; Newton, 5 j ; Preston, 29 ; Lancaster, 50 ; Crewe, 24; London, 182; Man- chester, 22 ; Liverpool, 17 J ; St. Helens, 8. ( Cheshire Lines to) Wid- ness, 6 ; Garston, 14 ; Liverpool, 17 b ; Lymm, 6£: Altrincham, 11 ; Stock- port, 21. ( Cheshire Junction to) Chester, 18; Frodsham, 8^. Distances - Northwich, 11 m. ; Bewsey, 1J; Latchford, 1 ; Apple- ton, 2 ; Winwick, 3. From Warrington the main line runs due N., passing rt. Winwich , one of the richest livings in all England (2400Z. per annum). It is supposed to have been one of the seats of the twelve Saxon chiefs, who formed their establishment in South Lan- cashire, prior to the formation of parishes. It is particularly asso- ciated by tradition with Oswald, King of Northumbria, who fell in battle with the Mercians in the 5th centy. St. Oswald's Well , 1 m. to Route 1 . — St. Oswald's Well — Castle Hill . 5 the Ni, is still an object of peculiar veneration in the eyes of the many Roman Catholics who inhabit this part of the country. The church , re- stored in 1847, and again in 1858, is a fine old building, dedicated to St. Oswald, consisting of nave, aisles, clerestory, and two chapels to the families of Legh and Gerard. The tower has a singular buttress on the S', side, and a lofty octangular spire, which forms a conspicuous land- mark. The windows of the aisles are Perp. On the gate of the Gerard chapel is some very grotesque carv- ing, of the date of 1471, together with family crests and initials. In the chapel of Legh of Lyme are monuments and brasses to the me- mory of Sir Peter Legh and his lady ; on one of the windows is the eagle and child (the crest of the Stanley family), and the vestry contains an oak bench, with a series of Lathom and Stanley shields. There is also a monkish inscription to St. Oswald : — “ Hie locus, Oswalde, quonda placuit tibi valde ; Nortanlmnbroru fueras rex, nucque polorum Kegna tenes, prato passus, Marcelde, vocai o, Poscimus liinc a te nostri memor esto beate.” “ A piece of rude sculpture on stone, resembling a hog fastened to a block by the collar, has been adduced as a proof of the antiquity of the church at Winwick, on the supposi- tion that this was the arms of Os- wald ; but the heralds assign to that monarch, azure, a cross between four lions rampant, or. Superstition sees in the chained hog the re- semblance of a monster of former ages which prowled over the neigh- bourhood, inflicting injury on man and beast, but it is probably only a rude attempt to represent the crest of the Gerards.”— Baines. Amongst the rectors of Winwick was Charles Herle, prolocutor of the Westminster Assembly of Di- vines during the Commonwealth. Winwick is famous for being the scene of two skirmishes: one in 1643, between the Parliament- ary forces under Colonel Ashton and a body of Cavaliers, who were routed; and again in 1648, at the pass of Winwick, between Cromwell and the Duke of Hamilton, in which the former was victorious. Winwick Hall is the seat of the Rev. F. Hopwood, Winwick Cottage , of the Misses Hornby, and Middleton Hall , of Mrs. Comber. Southworth Hall , now a farmhouse (1 m. E.), was a Roman Catholic chapel ex- isting in the time of Henry YI. Further on, the traveller passes, rt., the Vulcan Foundry , a large loco- motive and engineering establish- ment, belonging to the Messrs. Tay- leur. At 5 m. Earlston Junc. the main line from Liverpool to Man- chester is joined, and the north train runs along it for a short dis- tance to Newton Stat. The town of Newton- le -Willows or Newton-in- Makerfield, as it is formally styled, is an old-fashioned little place, with some timber houses still left in it. It was formerly a noted place for cock-fighting, and a cock-pit existed here till 1831. {Inn: Legh Arms.) Newton Old Hall , now a farm- house, is a timber - and - plaster building, of the date of Elizabeth, on the rt. of the rly., which has sadly interfered with it. There are scarce any vestiges of the moat, while the ancient tumulus, with its underground passage, forms part of the rly. embankment. The house contains a chimney-piece, with the arms of Queen Elizabeth upon it. The right wing of brick- work, arranged in lozenge fashion, is of later date. In a field called Gallows Croft a party of Highlanders were defeated by Cromwell s army in 1648. A tumulus, probably sepul- chral, exists at Castle Hill , to the N. of the town. It was opened in 1843, 6 j Route 1 . — Golborne Park — Bryn Hall. and yielded ashes, potters’ clay, and a whetstone, but no “kist-vaen.” In the neighbourhood of Newton is Golborne Park (W. J. Legh, Esq.), which formerly belonged to the fami- lies of Banastre and Langton, from whom it descended to the Fleet- woods, and was purchased from them by the Leghs. Hay dock Lodge , the old residence of the Haydock family, has been turned successively into a barrack and a lunatic asylum. New Hall is a seat of Lord Gerard’s. The sites only of some others are visible between Newton and St. Helens, as Brack Hall , belonging to a family of that name, in the reign of Henry VIII., and Peel Hall, the moat of which is still to be seen. In the township of Burtonwood is a farmhouse ( Bradley Hall), the gateway of which con- tains a beam with the following inscription : — “ The master dotlie and mistress bothe accorde with willing mindes and grateful hearts to serve the living Lord.” The main line to the N. turns off from the Liverpool and Manchester rly. about 1 m. from Newton, and runs due N., through an uninteresting country to 8 m. Golborne Stat. The village of Ashton-in-Makerfield is on the 1. 10 m. on 1. is the site of Bryn Hall, now demolished. It was a singular house of quadrangular shape, and surrounded by a moat, the traces of which are still visible. Bryn was, in 1280, the seat of Peter de Bryn, from whom it passed by the mar- riage of his daughter to the Gerards. The carved work for which this house was famous was taken to Garswood , near St. Helens, the present seat of the Gerard family, together with a celebrated relic called Father Arrow- smith’s Hand. The former owner of the hand was a priest who suffered at Lancaster for his religion in the reign of Charles I., though some local historians declare that, as Father Arrowsmith did not lead a very saintly life, it is more probable that he suffered death as a punishment for crimes committed. At all events, his hand, which was cut off on the scaffold, was supposed to confer healing powers on the sick. The Gerards of Bryn were a famous Lancashire family, one of whom fought at Flodden — “ Sir Thomas Jarred, that jolly knight, is joined thereunder.” On the rt. of the rly. is Abram ; its name is derived from a family settled here in the reign of Edward II. The church is a plain brick building of about the year 1837. Here is a small endowed school, and several old houses ; Bam- furlong Hall, a moated half-timbered farmhouse, formerly the residence of the Ashtons, later of the Gerards, and now the property of the Wal- mesleys of Westwood. (This place gives the name to the new railway station.) Abram Hall and Bicker-* shaw Hall are both modern erections, and replace the ancient buildings of, probably, the time of Henry YI. and Edward II. One mile north of Bamfurlong is all that remains of Lowe Hall, once the residence of the Langtons, who were lords of the manor of Hindley, and were settled here from a very early period. The moated farmhouse marks the place where the old mansion stood. The numerous collieries and engine- houses that now come into sight betoken the approach to 13 m. Wigan Jung, with the Man- chester line, via Tyldesley (Rte. 9). Wigan ( Inns : Eagle ; Victoria) is a town in which the traces and tra- ditions of a bygone day struggle curiously with the life and business of a modern manufacturing district. It is situated rather picturesquely on rising ground, on either side the little river Douglas ( Dim glas, black water) — “ Swart Dulas, coining in from Wyjyn with her ayds .” 7 'Route 1 . — Wigan — Mat's Cross . The oldest portion is on the N. bank, while the S. is occupied by the more modern and artisan suburb of Scoles (Scala). But the whole neighbourhood is so black with smoke and redolent of coal-tar that few tourists ever care to stop here. Amongst the improve- ments made in this town are : a handsome Market Hall, opened in 1877 ; the Meynes Park, laid out at a great expense for the recreation of the working population ; the Gram- mar School, a spacious building after designs by Waterhouse, and which will probably be a great educational centre for these parts ; the magnifi- cent Free Library, which bids fair to rank as one of the best in the king- dom. The building and its contents are the gift of two gentlemen, former inhabitants of this town. The finest of the churches is the Parish Ch ., dedicated to All Saints, the beau- tiful tower of which is well seen from the rly. It possesses a fine peal of bells, and a good organ, and consists of nave, side aisles, chancel, and two chantries, to the families of Gerard and Bradshaw, now represented by those of Walmesley and Lindsay. It is a modern building, a reproduction of an older one of the 17th century, the base of the tower and the Wal- mesley Chapel being part of the original pile. The interior contains an altarpiece in tapestry, represent- ing the death of Ananias, the origin of which is unknown, particularly good E. and W. windows of stained glass (the latter of 12 compartments), and (in the Crawford Chapel) a monument, with effigies of Sir Wil- liam Bradshaw, of Haigh, cross- legged and in mail-armour, and his wife Mabel ; at one end of the tomb is a representation of the lady at the foot of the cross, and at the other are the knights engaged in combat. There are also two smaller monu- ments to members of the Crawford and Balcarres families, and one to Dr. Hall, a former rector, and Bishop of Chester, 1662-68 — a Latin in- scription, written by himself, de- claring that he was worthy of notice only because he was his father’s son or rather shadow — “ Filins, imo umbra potius.” The 4 succeeding rectors, in- cluding Dr. Pearson, the author of the ‘ Exposition of the Creed/ and Dr. John Wilkins, were also Bishops of Chester. The latter was one of the earliest founders of the Royal Society, and, according to Aubrey, a man “ of much and deepe thinkeing, and of a working head and a prudent man as well as ingeniose.” The living has been in the gift of the Bridgeman family since the 16th centy. Mat's Cross is situated in Standish Gate, the street leading to Wigan Lane, and commemorates the story of Lady Mabel Bradshaw, thus told in the family genealogy of Haigh : — “Sir William Bradshaghe, 2d son to Sir John, was a great traveller and a souldger, and married to Mabel, daughter and sole heire of Hugh Norris de Haghe and Blackrode. “ Of this Mabel is a story by tradi- tion of undoubted verity, that in Sir William Bradshaghe’s absence (being 10 yeares away in the wares) she married a W elch knight. Sir Wi lliam retorninge from the wares, came in a Palmer’s habit amongst the poore. to Haghe, who when she saw and congetringe that he favoured her former husband, wept, for which the kt. chasticed her, at wich Sir Wil- liam went and made himselfe knowne to his tenantes, in which space the kt. fled. But neare to Newton Parke Sir William overtooke him and slue him. The saide Dame Mabell was enjoyned by her confessor to doe penances by going onest every week barefout and barelegged to a crosse ner Wigan from the Haghe wilest she lived, and is called Mabb to this day.” There is, however, a discre- pancy in Sir William’s story, as the 8 Route 1 .—Haigh Hall — Westwood House . last of the Crusades took place be- fore he was born ; but it is possible that be might have been engaged in Edward 11. s campaign against the Scots. There is another tradition in the Harleian MSS. respecting Mabel Norreys, that she was the heiress to the manor of Blackrod, though she did not know it, and that she was discovered baking cakes in a peasant’s dress by Sir William. Haigh Hall (2J m. N. of Wigan), the locale of this story, and the ancient seat of the Bradshaws, is now that of the Earl of Crawford and Bal- carres, and once possessed, amongst other curiosities, a window on which the whole of the legend was painted. It is alluded to in the introduction to Sir Walter Scott’s 1 Betrothed, ’ but is not now in existence. The library is one of the finest private collections in England, and contains in it £0,000 volumes and many rare works. The old hall was celebrated also for its quaint and formal Flemish gardens and groves, of which an interesting and curious picture, as they existed at the be- ginning of the 18th centy., is still extant. The view from the hill is very fine, embracing thirteen coun- ties, and extending even to the Isle of Man. “ Wigan, though not mentioned in Domesday, had become, in the reign of Edward III., the most populous town in W est Derby. When in that reign writs were directed to the mayors of the most wealthy towns of England, requiring contributions for the prosecution of the Scottish war, those of Lancashire selected as the most able to contribute were Lancaster, Preston, and Wigan. The parson of Wigan, being no common rector or vicar, was entitled to all the rights and privileges of the lord of the manor, and held his Monday market and Easter court-leet in rivalry of the mayor’s Friday market and Michael- mas court-leet. A great man he must have been in the reign of Henry IV., when in his house in London he feasted two kings and two queens with their attendants, seven hundred messes of meat scarce serving for the first dinner.” — Halley. The first parson of Wigan, indeed, John Mauncell, was also Provost of Beverley, Treasurer of York, Parson of Maidstone, Chief Justice of Eng- land, one of the Privy Council, Chaplain to the King, and Ambas- sador to Spain— a specimen of a pluralist that has seldom been equalled. Wigan and its neighbourhood offers several objects of antiquarian in- terest in old houses. In the town are “ The Meadows ,” of Elizabethan age ; Whitley Hall , of the date of last centy. ; Wigan Hall , now the rectory, was lately rebuilt from de- signs by Street; and the Manor House , in Bishopsgate, in which Prince Charles Edward passed two days in 1745, being carefully con- cealed by the wife of the owner, who was in the service of the king, and fortunately absent. The Prison , in Millgate, has stood since the time of Henry VIII. 1 m. S. of Wigan is Westwood House (W. G. Walmesley, Esq.), in whose grounds there is an elaborate R. C. chapel, from designs by Pugin. 1 m. on the Bolton road is Ince Old Hall (J. Walmesley, Esq.), a beau- tiful old timbered and gabled house, which is the scene of an interesting tale in Roby's 4 Traditions of Lan- cashire.’ Ince Hall , formerly the seat of J. Gerard, Esq., is now the offices for Pearson and Knowles’ Iron Works. The early history of Wigan, which derives its name from the Saxon “wig,” a fight, is associated inti- mately with King Arthur, some of whose battles are supposed to have been fought on the Douglas. In a barrow, called Hasty Knoll, now dis- appeared, human bones were found in enormous quantities, and in another 9 Route 1 . — Wigan Lane — Standish Rail. a great quantity of horseshoes. A battle was fought in this same district between the Saxons and Bri- tons, in which the latter were victori- ous. In 1642 Wigan was garrisoned for Charles I., but was soon taken by the Parliamentary forces. The Earl of Derby retook it, but only for a time, for he was forced to yield it to the opposite side, who destroyed its walls and gates. In 1651 the battle of Wigan Lane took place — a skirmish between the Earl of Derby and Col. Lilburne — in which the former was defeated, while Lord Widdrington and Sir T. Tyldesley were slain, the latter being shot as he was getting over a hedge. A pillar was erected to his memory in Wigan Lane, on the spot where he fell. Although a good deal of cotton- spinning and weaving is carried on at Wigan and its neighbourhood, its principal trade lies in its iron and coal. The Wigan Iron and Coal Company carry on extensive works for smelting iron at Kirkless Hall , while the celebrity of Wigan coals is of very long standing. “ In Haigh, near Wiggin, in the grounds of Sir Roger Bradshaigh, there are very plentiful and profitable mines of an extraordinary coal. Besides the clear flame it yields in burning, it has been curiously polished into the appearance of black marble and formed into large candlesticks, sugar- boxes, spoons, with many other such sorts of vessels, which have been pre- sented as curiosities, and met with very good acceptance both in London and beyond sea.”— Camden. The coal thus alluded to is the cannel coal, for which this district is renowned all over the kingdom. The cannel seam, which is held in such estimation for gas-making and do- mestic purposes, is about 3 ft. in thickness and about 600 yards deep in the succession of the coal strata of this basin. Wigan is, however, the most valuable locality for this seam, as it thins away in every direction as from a centre. The Wigan coalfield is reckoned to contain 1,784,000,000 tons of coal, a great portion of which lies between two large and well known faults, called the St. Cathe- rine’s and the Haigh Faults. The Earl of Balcarres is one of the largest coal proprietors in the country, and many owners of property do not think it beneath their dignity to work their own mines. The Douglas has been rendered navigable from Wigan to the Kibble by an Act passed in 1719, and large quantities of coal go to the North and Ireland by this route. Amongst the worthies of Wigan was Dr. John Leland, 1691, a great Presbyterian preacher and author. His memory of books was so tena- cious that he was usually called “ the Walking Library.” Bail from Wigan to Manchester, 17 m. via Tyldesley ; to Preston, 16 m., and the north ; Newton. 7 m. ; Warrington, 13 m. ; Crewe, 37 m. By Lancashire and Yorkshire line to Liverpool, 19 m. ; Ormskirk, 13 m. ; Bolton, 9 m. ; Rochdale, 22 m. ; Bury, 16 m. ; St. Helens, 7J m. ,* Chorley, 7J m. From Wigan the rly. runs up the valley of the Douglas, leaving the woods of Haigh on the rt., to 15J m. Standish Stat., to 1. of which is Staud- ish village and Hall (C. H. Standish, Esq.), in which the Lancashire plot of 1694. for the dethronement of Win. III., was concocted. In the reign of Richard I. the family of Standish was rewarded for their services in putting down the insurrection of Wat Tyler. The ch., which was rebuilt in 1584 under the direction of Richard Moodi, a converted Franciscan monk and the first vicar, consists of nave, chancel, aisles, tower, and spire. In the interior is a recumbent figure of the vicar, Moodi ; an alabaster effigy, with ruffs, to Sir E. Wrightington ; 10 Boute 1 . — Coppull — Leyland and Worden Halls . and a monument, by Bacon , to a Liverpool merchant (1796), with a group representing Commerce and Industry. One of the pews contains the arms of the De Chisnalls, and an illegible inscription in gilt letters, purporting to be a copy of Prince Rupert’s commission to Edward Chisenalle, one of the gallant de- fenders of Lathom Plouse. The will of Vicar Moodi is worth quoting. He directed the chancel to be finished out of his goods. Mr. Alexander Standish was to have his brewing utensils and things in his brewery. Should any of the legatees quarrel, they were to have nothing. In the grounds of Standish Rectory are some yew-trees, said to be 600 years old. On the rt. of the rly., 1 m., is Arley Hall , an old moated house, and fur- ther on is Adlington Hall (J. T. Greene, Esq.). 19 m. Coppull Stat., near which was Chisnall Hall , the residence of the family of that name. 1J m. rt. is Huxbury Park (C. S. Standish, Esq.), midway between Coppull and Chorley. Of this family was Dr. Henry Standish, Provincial of the Order of Franciscan Monks at the time of the Reformation, to which he so effectually contributed, in- curring thereby the direct enmity of the Popish authorities in England. He was mainly instrumental in ob- taining the abrogation of the im- munities of the clergy, and after- wards undertook the defence of Queen Catherine against her hus- band Henry VIII. Later on lived Thomas Standish, a member of the Long Parliament, while his son Thomas was a zealous Royalist, and was killed while fighting under Lord Strange at the siege of Manchester. Another member of this Duxbury family was Capt. Miles Standish, “ the fighting man of the Pilgrim Fathers,” who escorted them to America. “He was a gentleman born, conld trace his pedigree plainly Back to Hugh Standish, of Duxbury Hall, in Lancashire, England, Who was the son of Ralph, and the grand- son of Thurston de Standish, Heir unto vast estates, of which he was basely defrauded/’ — Longfellow. 21 m. rt. Gillibrand Hall (H. Woods, Esq.), and Astley Hall (R. Towneley Parker, Esq.); 1. Euxton Hall (W. M. Anderton, Esq.). The old house was rebuilt in the time of Henry VIII., and partially restored again in 1739 ; the present one has a hall and staircase finely decorated by Concilio. The Andertons have held Euxton for many generations, and in 1650 Charles II. lodged here, the then owner, Sir Hugh Anderton, being a prisoner. He is described as being “ a bloody Papist, who, when Prince Rupert was at Bolton, boasted much of being in blood to elbows in that cruel massacre.” Euxton Ch. was built in 1513, as a Roman Catholic chapel, but was transferred to the Established Church in the 18th century. It stands on the brow of a hill, and has a very rustic, antiquated appearance. The R. C. ch. is a short distance from the road, and is a beautiful stone build- ing ; it was opened in 1865. At Euxton Junc., 23 m., the Bolton and Chorley line runs in at 24 J m. Leyland Stat., near which are Leyland Hall , now a farmhouse of Elizabethan date, and Worden Hall, the seat of the Miss Faring- tons * The Ch ., one of our oldest ecclesiastical structures, has a fine pinnacled and battlemented tower, nave, chancel, and aisles, of singular character, like passages, together with a chapel to the Farington family, a very ancient stock, which dates its descent from Hugo de Meolis, in the time of the Conqueror. * This name is sometimes written as ffarington , which was the old way of writing many names in the North. When printed, however, the capital F should be used. 11 Boute 2 . — Stockport to Manchester . It was restored in 1817. The stained- glass windows are by Clayton and Bell , and Warrington. The chancel contains a piscina, sedilia, an ambry, and the works of Foxe and Jewell in black letter, chained to one of the windows. In the vestry on the N. of the chancel are some curious old remnants of stained glass. Until 1816 there was a division of the sexes in the ch., an arrangement which still holds good in the free seats. During the progress of some alterations in 1852, portions of an earlier ch. with Norm, details were found. Near the churchyard is a grammar school, endowed by Queen Elizabeth with 31. 18s. a year, and in the village are some almshouses built by the Faringtons. “The first re- corded mention of Leyland is in the time of Edward the Confessor. It was a royalty under the King, which secured the people better treatment than those living under the Thanes. The King had here a hall and court of justice, where disputes were submitted periodically to a jury ot freemen.” The R. C. chapel stands not far from the Parish ch ., and is a plain brick building erected in 1854. There is silver chalice in the vestry of between 500 and 700 years old. There are also Wesleyan Indepen- dent and Methodist chapels at Leyland. About If m. W. of Leyland is the district of Leyland Moss, where is a new E. Eng. ch., built by Mrs. Faring- ton, whose monument of Carrara marble by Hutchison should be seen. Amongst the industries of Leyland is a manufactory of gold thread. 26 m. Farington Stat. 1J m. on rt. is Cuerden Park , the beautiful seat of R. Towneley Parker, Esq. A house was erected here by Chris- topher Banastre, of Banke, in 1660, one of whose coheiresses brought the property by marriage into the Parkers. The present mansion had been modernised by Wyatt. At Cuerden was born Dr. Bichard Kuerden , a celebrated antiquary, and author of the great topographical work, ‘ Brigantia Lancastriensis re- staurata/ Farington Ch. was erected in 1839. It is situated about a mile from the village, and is built of brick with stone facings. At Farington the line from Black- burn to Ormskirk crosses the London and North-Western Rly., and the traveller soon reaches the fertile vale of the Ribble, which is crossed by a lofty viaduct, to 29 m. Preston Stat. (Rte. 16). Hotels: Victoria; Bull. ) ROUTE 2. STOCKPORT TO MANCHESTER. Quitting the high level stat. at Stockport (see Hdbk. for Cheshire ), the traveller gains a curious and in- teresting view of the town as he glides over the lofty viaduct that spans the valley of the Mersey and connects Lancashire and Cheshire. At the Lancashire end is i m. Heaton Norris Junc., a sub- urb of Stockport, from whence a branch is given on rt. to Ashton and Staley Bridge. li m. Heaton Chapel Stat. The village (on rt.) has a plain chapel of ease. 3 m. Levensliulme Stat. The turnpike-road was formerly crossed 12 Route 2 . — Manchester : Hotels ; Railway Stations, near this point by an old earthwork, called the Nicker Ditch ; but build- ing operations have pretty well ob- literated all such remains. m. Longsight Stat., adjoining the Bellevue Gardens. Passing by a long viaduct through Ardwick, noted for its lime, its old corporation, and its cemetery, in which are interred Dr. Dalton, Samuel Butler the tragedian, and Sir Thos. Potter, the traveller reaches The London Koad Stat., almost in the centre of the city of Man- chester, one of the most interest- ing places in the kingdom. It boasts a history of great antiquity, but is essentially modern in ch iracter, and in its enormous growth is only to be equalled by London itself. The secret of the origin of this growth is the factory system, of which Man- chester is the headquarters and the metropolis. “What Art was to the ancient world, Science is to the mo- dern — the distinctive faculty. In the minds of men the useful has suc- ceeded to the beautiful. Instead of the city of the Violet Crown, a Lan- cashire village has expanded into a mighty region of factories and ware- houses. Yet, rightly understood, Manchester is as great a human exploit as Athens/’- — D’ Israeli. Manchester Hotels. — The Queen’s (good), Royal, and Albion, all facing the Infirmary; Waterloo, and Cla- rence, near the London Road Stat. (very comfortable) ; Palatine, close to the Victoria Stat. (comfortable) ; the Mitre, and the Cathedral Hotel (close by the Cathedral) ; the Spread Eagle (Hanging Ditch) ; the King’s Arms, in Spring Gardens; the Trevelyan (Temperance), in Corporation St. There are innumerable Coffee-houses and Restaurants , one of the latter (Smallman s, in Barton Arcade) doing a brisk business on strict teetotal and vegetarian principles. The Victoria Building will include first - class hotel accommodation. Amongst the second-class hotels may be mentioned the Star, in Deansgate ; the Brunswick, the Mosley Aims, and the White Bear, in Piccadilly. The Post Office is in Brown Street, and the chief Telegraph Office in York Street. Railway Stations. — London Road , the point of departure for the London and North-Western trains to Crewe and London (Euston) ; the Man- chester, Sheffield, and Lincolnshire trains to Sheffield and Hull ; the Great Northern trains for Peter- borough and London (King’s Cross) ; the Midland trains for Buxton, Derby, and London (St. Pancras). The Victoria Stat. serves for Lon- don and North-Western trains for Liverpool, Bolton, Wigan, and the North ; also to Huddersfield and Leeds; Great Western trains to Chester, Shrewsbury, and South Wales; Lancashire and Yorkshire trains to Ashton, Bolton, Preston, Liverpool, Rochdale, Halifax, Burn- ley, &c. The Oxford Road Stat. is the pas- senger terminus of the line to Al- trincham, Warrington, Liverpool (on the S. bank of the Mersey), and Northwich. There are also several smaller stations to accommodate the residents in the suburbs, such as Longsight, Ardwick, Ordsall Lane, and Weaste Lane, on the London and North-Western system ; Gorton, Ash- bury, and Fairfield, on the Man- chester, Sheffield, and Lincolnshire line ; Salford, Pendleton, Oldfield Road, Miles Platting, and Newton Heath, on the Lancashire and York- shire ; Cornbrook and Old Trafford, on the Cheshire line. The Central Stat., in Windmill Street, is the property of the Cheshire Lines Committee. From here there are frequent services of fast trains to Warrington and Liverpool, passing Boute 2 . — Manchester . 13 through Urmston, Flixton, and Glazebrook. Notwithstanding its great size and apparent regularity, Manchester is very deficient in open spaces and symmetry of arrangement. The old town , or parish, lies altogether on the E. bank of the Irwell, occupying a considerable plain, but the progress of time has brought with it such an increase of buildings that a great number of adjoining townships have been absorbed, and have contributed to form with Manchester proper a vast city of 15 or 16 miles in cir- cumference. From the Exchange as the centre, the busy thoroughfare of Market Street runs nearly E. and W., terminating in an irregular square, in the centre of which is the Infirmary. Piccadilly is a continu- ation of Market Street, and leads into the London Road, which runs S.E. to Ardwick. Many good streets strike oif from the Infirmary Square, such as Oldham, Mosley, Portland, and George Streets. From the Ex- change a great thoroughfare runs due N. by the river bank to the Cathedral and Victoria Station, thence continuing by a long suburb road to Broughton and Bury. Be- tween the Oldham and Broughton roads two other main streets start from the centre of the town, both running more or less in a northerly direction. 1. To York Street ; 2. To Rochdale Road ; both roads uniting eventually at Middleton (Rte. 4). At the W. of the town we have the Irwell, crossed by several bridges and uniting Manchester proper with Sal- ford, just as Southwark forms part of London. Across the Albert Bridge runs the main thoroughfare to Pen- dleton and Bolton, while, keeping pretty close to the E. bank of the river, is Deansgate, which eventually terminates in two great high-roads to Liverpool and Chester. Deans- gate is one of the oldest thorough- fares in the city, and had become the centre of a densely populated district. It was narrow and tor- tuous, and the alleys and courts on either side had no great reputation for cleanliness or morality. The schemes for street improvement, car- ried out by the City Council, have completely transformed it, and it is now a wide thoroughfare, flanked by handsome shops and offices. In this reconstruction, Victoria or “ Smithy- Door ” Market has entirely disap- peared, and with it some of the few picturesque houses that remained of “old Manchester.” The site of the Market is covered by buildings, designed by Mr. W. Dawes , and in* eluding not only the Victoria Hotel, but extensive suites of business offices and shops. The changes which have been, in the last few years, transforming the appearance of the city are strikingly evident in this part. On the S.W. is the Stret- ford Road, connecting Manchester with that village and Cheshire gene- rally ; while Oxford Road is an im- portant artery leading to Rusholme, Cheadle, and the villages on the Cheshire border. As in most commercial towns of the present day, few people live in Manchester who can afford to live out of it, particularly as the omnibus and railway communication to the suburbs is very complete and frequent. The result is that at distances vary- ing from 2 to 5 miles from the Ex- change are vast numbers of villas and residences of more or less taste, but nearly all evincing no lack of wealth. To the N., occupying ele- vated ground, and lining the road from Manchester to Bury, are Higher and Lower Broughton, Kersall, with the village of Prestwich. Further E. is Cheetham Hill, succeeded by Crumpsall and Harpurhey. The N.E. suburb is of a poor class, partly because the country is bleak and uninviting, and partly because the factory portion of the town princh pally lies here, making the district 14 Boute 2 . — Manchester : The Irwell. of the Oldham Road and Ancoats any- thing but a pleasant one. Coming round to the E. are the suburbs of Ardwick and Longsight, succeeded on the S. by Chorlton-on-Medlock, Didsbury, Rusholme,Witkington, and Whalley Range. Hulme and Stret- ford lie to the S.W., and Old Traflord fills up the space to the banks of the Irwell. On the other side of the river we again come to rising ground, occupied by the villages of Eccles, Swinton, and Pendleton, separated from Manchester by the crowded borough of Salford. The rapid in- crease in numbers has led to a gradual displacement of population, so that districts which a few years ago were but sparsely peopled are now human hives. The suburb of Moss Side has thus developed into a wilderness of houses. Gorton and Bradford, which are essentially working - class districts, have in- creased at a rate that is only sur- passed by Barrow-in-Furness. The spaces between Manchester and the towns and villages around are gra- dually being filled by manufactories, and by the cottages of those who work in them. The inhabitants of the “ genteel ” neighbourhood gra- dually remove to a greater distance. Thus the area of the real city is ever enlarging, and the mere state- ment of the nominal population or extent conveys no adequate concep- tion of what Manchester is, unless we take into account the adjacent villages which it is creating or ab- sorbing. The population at the Census of 1871 was: Salford, 124,801 ; Manchester, 379,374. The Irwell is the great natural feature of Manchester, and, if un- spoiled by the factories and buildings on its banks, and by the inky blackness of its water, would be an exceedingly pretty river. Indeed, with *all its disadvantages, the scenery of the Irwell, as it flows at the foot of the Peel Park and under the heights of Broughton round the old race- course, is still full of beauty. It may be mentioned as a curious circumstance that, from the most southern point of the Crescent , Sal- ford corn-fields may still be seen in the valley of the Irwell. After a good many windings from Kersall Moor to the Cathedral, the Irwell has a tolerably straight course to Old Traf- ford, from whence it takes a sharp turn to the W. in the direction of Worsley and Liverpool, falling into the Mersey not far from Flixton. It is joined by three small tributaries in its course through the city: — 1. The Irk , a streamlet of Stygian blackness, which descends from the high grounds beyond Middleton and enters Manchester through the vale between Cheetham Hill and Harpur- hey. After being bridged, tunnel- led, and built over every few yards, it at length ceases its melancholy existence by joining the Irwell close to the Victoria Stat. On the banks of the Irk was formerly the lord’s mill, to which the burgesses were obliged to carry their corn to be ground, and near it was the lord’s oven, where their bread was obliged to be baked. 2. The Medbck is a broader, though not a whit more inviting, stream, and enters the city from the N.E., passing through the districts of Ancoats, Oxford Road, and Knott Mill, where it joins the Irwell. 3. The Cornbrook is a very little stream, which rises near Green- heys, and, after skirting the S. of the town, comes to an end close to the Pomona Gardens. These Acherontian streams very seldom appear to the light of day, and the stranger care- lessly crossing them, where visible, would be puzzled to know whence they came and where they were flow- ing. Their extremely black colour is owing to the dye-works in the outskirts of Manchester, which have utilised the rivulets in their early course. Once upon a time fish existed in all these streams, for 15 'Route 2 . — Manchester : Bridges ; History. it is recorded that the fisheries were valued at an annual rental of two shillings for the Irwell, and twelve pence for the Irk and Med- lock. The Irwell is bridged over between Broughton and Trafford no less than 8 times. The Victoria Bridge , of one arch of 100 feet span, has super- seded the old Salford Bridge, which had a chapel on it, erected by Thomas del Booth, subsequently made a dungeon. The Blackfriars Bridge was originally a wooden bridge, put up by a company of actors to cross over to their theatre in Salford. The Albert Bridge , near the New Bailey was built in 1864. The Begent Boad Bridge connects Hulme and Salford. The Wellington Bridge unites Salford with Strangeways. Above this are the Springfield Lane and the Brough- ton Bridges , the latter being a sus- pension-bridge. There is also an- other at Broughton. The Throstle Nest Bridge connects old Trafford with Salford, and the Woden St (foot) bridge unites Ord- sall and Hulme. History of Manchester. — It has been conjectured that Castlefield was originally a British fortress, and was taken possession of by the troops of Agricola. Of this there is no abso- lute evidence, but it certainly was a Roman station of some importance. A fragment of the wall still exists, and is engraved in Procter’s ‘ Memo- rials of Manchester Streets.’ Con- siderable remains were visible when Stukely (1724) and Horsley (1782) wrote. At various times (and prin- cipally during the formation of the Bridgewater Canal) Roman remains have been brought to light, con- sisting of dishes, coins, busts, pottery, with gold and bronze bullse. The coins were of the date of Vespasian, Antoninus Pius, Trajan, Hadrian, Nero, Domitian, Vitellius, and Con- stantine. The Saxon history of Mamee easier takes us rather into j legendary times, contemporaneous with the Round Table and Arthur’s battles on the Douglas. Holling- worth, writing in the middle of the 17th centy., records a tradition that : “ Sir Tarquine, a stoute enemie of King Arthur, kept this castle, and neere to the foord in Medlock, about Mabhouse, hung a bason on a tree, on which bason whosoever did strike, Sir Tarquine, or some of his com- pany, would come and fight with him ; and that Sir Launcelot du Lake, a Knight of King Arthur’s Round Table, did beate vppon the bason, fought with Tarquine, killed him, possessed himself of the castle and loosed the prisoners.” The authen- tic notices of it in these early ages are very scanty. It is not improb- able that it was one of the scenes of the missionary labours of Paulinus ; and, if we may trust the testimony of a later chronicler (Robt. Manning of Brunne), it was for three months the residence of Ina, king of Wes- sex, and his queen, Ethelberga. Ina is said to have rested here after defeating Ivor and Henyr, about a.d. 689. From the Saxon Chronicle we learn that, in 928, Edward, who was then at Thelwall, sent an army of Mercians to repair and man “ Man- chester in Northumbria.” The entry in Domesday Book names only Man- chester, Salford, Rochdale and Rad- cliffe, in the present Salford hundred. Large portions of it were forest, wood, and waste lands. The manor of Sal- ford was subdivided among 21 thanes. “ The Ch. of St. Mary and the Ch. of St. Michael held in Manchester one corner of land, free from all customs, save (Dane) geld.” Con- siderable uncertainty prevails as to the identity of these churches. Whilst it has been generally as- sumed that both were in the town , some antiquaries consider that one of them was St. Michael's, Ashton- under-Lyne, still part of the parish of Manchester. 16 Route 2 .— Manchester : History. Salford received a charter from Ranulph de Blundeville, in the reign of Henry III. By this it was constituted a free borough, and in 1301 Manchester received a similar charter from its baron, Thos. Gresley, whose ancestors had a grant of the manor from Roger of Poictou, to whom belonged all the land between the rivers Mersey and Ribble. It is perhaps needless to trace the various families who obtained power in Man- chester. In the 15th centy. it be- came of very considerable ecclesias- tical importance under the fostering care of the Gresleys and De la Warres. The last of the baronial line of De la Warre was Thomas, who was educated for the priesthood, and became rector of the town. He augmented the ch. lands, in order to found and endow a collegiate ch. The members of the “Sacred Guild,” thus called into existence, were to perform the necessary ser- vices at the parish ch., and the old “ baron’s hall ” was converted to their use. The baronial rights of the manor passed to Sir Reginald West, the son of Joan Greslet, who was summoned to Parliament as Baron de la Warre. The manorial lights remained with the Wests until 1579, when they were soM for 3000Z. to John Lacy, who in 1593 resold them to Nicholas Mosley, and were vested in his descendants until 1845, when they were bought by the Corporation of Manchester for 200,000Z. Though paying tolls and taxes, &c., the in- habitants of old Manchester had a large share of local self-government, and many of the municipal regula- tions of the present day are found, in a rudimentary form at least* in the orders made by the Court Leet, in the 16tli centy. Some of the regulations then enforced have a quaint air. No butter or suet must be put in bread. No single woman was allowed to be at her own hand to keep house or chamber. No more than 6d. a head was to be paid for wed- ding dinners. Leland thus describes the town in 1638 “ It stondith on south side of the Irwell river, in Salfordshire, and is the fairest, best builded, quickliest and most populous townne of al Lancestreshire, yet is in hit but one paroch chirch, but is a college and almost througliowt double ilyed ex quadrato lapide durissiipo, whereof a goodly quarre is harde by the towne. There be divers stone bridges in the towne, but the best of III. arches is over Irwell. On this bridge is a praty little chapel.” The trade of Manchester soon became so important that the right of sanc- tuary which had been conferred on it by Henry VIII., a year later, was taken away from it— “ because the sanctuary men are prejudicial to the wealth, credit, great occupyings, and good order of the said town, by occa- sioning idleness, unlawful games, un- thriftiness, and other enormities.” In 1547 Manchester College was dis- solved, but was refounded in Mary’s reign, and the town soon afterwards became the head - quarters of the Commission established by Elizabeth for advancing the reformed religion. Towards the end of the centy. great improvements were made in civilisa- tion. “ Domestic comforts were en- larged. At the houses of public accommodation to which travellers resorted, clean linen was placed upon their beds and a separate room was assigned to each, at the cost of a penny a night if he came to the inn unattended by a horse, and without cost if he travelled on horseback.” — Baines. Manchester took a rather promi- nent part in the Civil Wars, having been garrisoned in 1642 by the Parliamentary forces, under Colonel Rosworm, against those of Charles I., under Lord Strange. But the fortifications had been put in such an able state by the commander that the besieged were able to hold their own, and 10 years later the works were dismantled. In an earlier skir- 17 Route 2.— Manchester : History . mish between the Puritans and some of Lord Strange's partisans, the first blood of the Civil War is said to have been spilled. The town had much increased, and its condition about the beginning of the 18th centy. is thus described by Mac- aulay: — “It was mentioned by the writers of the time of Charles II. as a busy and opulent place. Cotton had, during half a centy., been brought hither from Cyprus and Smyrna ; but the manufacture was in its infancy. That wonderful em- porium, which in population and wealth far surpasses capitals so much renowned as Berlin, Madrid, and Lisbon, was then a mean and ill- built market town, containing under 6000 people. It had then not a single press. It now supports a hundred printing establishments. It then had not a single coach. It now supports 20 coachmakers.” Dr. Aiken, writ- ing at the end of the 18th centy., gives a description of the manners of the place. The manufacturers were always in their warehouses by 6 o’clock in the morning and break- fasted at 7, the meal consisting of a large dish of water porridge poured into a bowl, and another of milk, into which the masters and ap- prentices dipped their spoons with- out ceremony. Dinner was at 12. At 2 the ladies went out visiting, and always attended service in the collegiate church at 4. The next episode in the history of the town is the rebellion of 1715, in which the clergy mostly took the side of the Pretender ; and again, in 1746, when it was visited by Prince Charles Edward and his army. During their stay the Prince inhabited a house in Market-street Laue. A body of men, known as the Man- chester regiment, was enrolled, and commanded by Col. Francis Townley, who had, amongst other officers, a Lancashire gentleman named Daw- son. The regiment surrendered at Carlisle to the Duke of Cumberland, [Lancashire.'] and the Colonel, with eight other officers, was tried in London, found guilty, and beheaded on Rennington Common. These proceedings, which were considered to be harsh and in- famous on the part of the Duke, are commemorated in a couple of local ballads, entitled * J emmy Dawson * and 4 Townley’s Ghost.' The former, written by Shenstone, touchingly de- scribes how Dawson's execution was witnessed by his intended bride, who expired, broken-hearted, before she left the spot : — “ The dismal scene was o’er and past, The lover’s mournful hearse retired, The maid drew hack her languid head And, sighing forth his name, expired.” The popular feeling in this part of the country was entirely opposed to the Government, and drew forth a curious and witty epigram from John Byrom, F.R.S., a well-known Manchester resident : — “God bless the King, I mean, our faith’s defender ! God bless (no harm in blessing) the Pretender ! But who Pretender is— or who is king— God bless us all — that’s quite another thing.” Manchester, which had been strongly Puritan in the 17th centy., was strongly Jacobite in the first half of the 18th centy., and in the latter half, strongly anti-Jacobin. At the close of the last and the com- mencement of the present century the general distress had bred great discontent, and there were loud de- mands for Reform in Parliament, and other supposed panaceas. In 1819, Mr. Henry Hunt (after- wards M.P. for Preston) presided over an immense meeting in Peter’s Field at Manchester. The meeting was attacked by the yeomanry, and several people were killed. It was a lamentable occurrence, and produced a degree of exasperation not easily forgotten by the Lancashire opera- tives, who called it the u Peterloo Massacre. 5 ' The field of Peterloo is now par- o 18 Route 2 . — Manchester: History; Public Buildings. tially covered by the Free Trade Hall. Amongst those present were Samuel Bamford, who in his * Life of a Radical,’ and ‘ Early Days/ has left a graphic picture of the social con- dition of the district ; other novels, such as 1 The Manchester Man/ by Mrs. G. L. Banks, ‘ Mary Barton/ by Mrs. Gaskell, 4 Scarsdale/ by Sir J. K. Shuttleworth, afford a vivid picture of the troubles connected with the political and trade agita- tions of the town. Manchester took a leading part in the agitation which resulted in the Reform Bill of 1832. It then acquired the right of sending two members to Parliament. It had not been previously represented, except in Cromwell's Parliament of 1654, when one of its representatives was Lt.-Col. Chas. Worsley of Platt, the man who executed the Protec- tor’s order to “ remove that bauble.” Still more marked was the part which the town took in the agita- tion for the Repeal of the Corn Laws. It was the headquarters of the free-trade party, as afterwards of the “Manchester School” and of the “ Alliance for the Suppression of the Liquor Traffic.” From first to last its history has been closely interwoven with that of the cotton- trade and factory system, every crisis of which, whether of success or adversity, is of incalcul- able importance to the whole town and neighbourhood. Manchester is now, however, rather the metropolis for the cotton trade than a place of textile manufactures in the ordinary sense. It is the emporium for the sale of the goods manufactured in the factories of the Cotton Kingdom. Its own industries are by no means confined to what was once regarded as its specialite. It is now the seat of large and im- portant engineering and chemical trades, and its industries are of the most varied and metropolitan cha- racter. Manchester received a charter of incorporation in 1838, and became the seat of an episcopal see in 1847, and was made a city by Royal charter in 1853. The stranger in Manchester will naturally be anxious to see the mills and warehouses which form the chief characteristics of the district. The chief cotton mills are : J. & J. L. Gray, Pollard-st., AncOats; R. Howarth & Co., Egerton Mills, Sal- ford ; M‘Connel & Co. (Limited), Union-st., Ancoats. Permission may be obtained through friends, to visit these and other like establishments on application to the several mill- owners. Amongst the public buildings best worth notice is the Royal Infirmary , which occupies a conspicuous posi- tion in a fine open space fronting Piccadilly, and consists of 3 sides of a quadrangle, one of which was built by the munificence of Jenny Lind, who devoted the proceeds of two concerts to that object. The architecture is Ionic, with a bold por- tico in front supported by 6 columns and surmounted by a domed clock- tower. The arrangements of the in- terior, which will accommodate 260 patients, are complete in every way. In front is a fine open terrace, de- corated by statues in bronze of the Duke of Wellington, Watt, Dalton, and Sir Robert Peel. The first and last of these have each a well-exe- cuted bas-relief of War and Plenty. Manchester abounds with medical charities, houses of recovery, and dis- pensaries, which will not interest the general visitor. The Royal Exchange is a magnifi- cent Italian building, at the bottom of Market-street, erected, in 1869, from designs by Messrs. Mills and Murgatroyd. It stands in the heart of the city, bounded by four principal streets ; Exchange-st., Market-st., Bank-st., and Cross-st. — from which 19 Boute 2 . — Boyal Exchange ; Assize Courts . is the chief entrance under a Corin- thian portico — with towers at the angles. The great domed hall of meeting is one of the largest rooms in the kingdom, the ceiling form- ing a clear area, without supports, of 120 ft. in width. The first Ex- change was built, in 1729, by Sir Oswald Mosley, but soon fell into disrepute, and was taken down in 1792. The merchants congregated round an obelisk which marked its site, but this al fresco way of doing business was found so inconvenient that a new one was built in 1809. This again was enlarged to such an extent in 1849 that it was practically a new building; and although it contained an area of 1668 square yards, the requirements of Man- chester commerce have necessitated the erection of this the third Ex- change. Strangers can obtain tickets for 3 days by having their names entered by a subscriber, which gives the right of entry into the well-supplied news-room. The great sight of the Exchange is on (cotton) market-days (Tuesday and Friday), between 1 and 2, when town and country subscribers meet together in one vast mass, each man intent on buying or selling, and helping to fill the room with a deep hum of voices like a gigantic beehive. Liverpool, Bolton, Wigan, Preston, Blackburn, Bochdale, Oldham, Bury, Stockport, with all the subsidiary towns and villages, send forth their spinners and mill-owners, their print- ers and bleachers, to meet under this great roof, and transactions of enor- mous magnitude are concluded in a few minutes’ time. The Assize Courts (built in 1864) are situated in Great Ducie-street, on the site of old Strangeways Hall, and form a magnificent pile of build- ings from designs by A . Waterhouse , A.B.A., in the mixed styles of E. Eng. and Dec. Although surrounded on all sides by streets, the front retires considerably from the roadway, and allows a good view of the irregular groupings of pinnacles and towers. The entrance from Great Ducie-street is by a very beautiful portico, with flanks and extensions at each end in the form of pavilions. The interior contains in the principal story the Great Hall, the two Assize Courts, criminal and Nisi Prius, and the Sheriff's Court, with long corridors containing all the necessary rooms for barristers, officials, witnesses, &c. The basement is occupied with kitchens, heating-rooms, cells for prisoners, &c. In the upper story are the Chancery Court, the Grand Jury Room, the Barristers’ Dining- room, &c. ; and above it all is a fine tower, 210 ft. high, which forms part of the arrangements for ventilation. The arrangements of the whole building are remarkable for their convenience, and those of the courts for their perfect acoustic qualities. The architectural ornamentation of the portico and front facade are very florid, the principal story being lighted by a range of Dec. windows with rich tracery ; while those of the upper story are of E. Eng. date. The windows of the portico are adorned by statues of Alfred the Great, Glanville, Henry II., Ed- ward I., Gascoyne, Sir T. More, Coke, and Sir Matthew Hale. The Great Hall is a remarkably beauti- ful room, lighted by a north window of 7 lights, the stained glass of which illustrates the signing of Magna Charta. The S. window contains the arms of England, Ireland, Scot- land, the Duchy of Lancaster, and towns in the Salford Hundred. N. of the courts are the Judges’ lodg- ings, a fine group of buildings in the same style. The visitor should notice the entrance hall, which con- tains a beautiful stone screen, with exquisitely carved capitals and spany drils and shafts of polished serpen- tine. The cost of the whole pile was 100,000Z. c 2 20 Route 2 . — Manchester : Town Hall ; Libraries . The most imposing edifice which Manchester possesses is the Town Hall, in Albert-square, completed in 1877 from designs by Waterhouse. It is Gothic in style, covers 8000 sq. yds., and contains more than 250 rooms. The site on which it stands is triangular in form, and the archi- tect had to deal with serious diffi- culties, the chief of which is the want of a central courtyard open to the sky. Corridors, from 10 to 12 ft. wide, form a continuous line round the building on each floor, and are for the most part inconveniently dark. The principal tower is in the centre of the front towards Albert- square, and contains a magnificent peal of bells by Taylor of Lough- borough, the largest weighing 6J tons, and the smallest 7 cwt. They form an almost perfect chromatic scale of 21 bells. Each bell has on it a legend from Tennyson, the lines being selected from section cv. of In Memoriam. The same tower contains the clock and carillons. From the top (260 ft. high), the prospect is very extensive, including the greater part of S. Lancashire and Cheshire, with the Derbyshire hills in the distance. There are other towers at the Cooper-st. and Princess- st. ends, which add to the diversity and character of the structure. The public room, 100 ft. long by 50, contains a magnificent organ by M. Cavaille-Coll of Paris. The cost of the entire building has been about 800,000/. The stranger should no- tice the vaulted corridors, the crypt- like vestibules, the winding staircases all studded with Gothic ornament and elaborate tracery, and hundreds of columns of polished marble and granite. The old Town Hall , in King-street, is a fine, though rather heavy, build- ing, erected, in 1832, in imitation of the Erectheum of Athens, at a cost of 40,000/. The building having become too small for municipal business, the new Town Hall was in conse- quence undertaken. The old Town Hali is now used as a public Free Library. The free libraries in Manchester owe their origin to Sir John Potter, by whose example and influence a sum of 12,823?. was sub- scribed, with which, in 1852, a build- ing was purchased and stocked with books, and then handed over to the town for maintenance. This was the first occasion on which the Public Libraries Act was put in force. From this first building, 5 branch establishments have arisen in differ- ent parts of the town, containing commodious reading-rooms for books, newspapers, and periodicals, to which admission is absolutely free; books also can be borrowed on the guarantee of a ratepayer. These libraries are situated in the midst of the working populations, and are as follows. The Hume Library , adjoin- ing Hume Town Hall, having 13,745 vols. ; the Ancoats Library , in Every-st., having 13,968 vols.; the Reddall Road Library , in Livesey-st., having 13,486 vols. ; the Chorlton and Ardwick Library , in Kusholme-road, having 14,661 vols. ; and the Chetham Library , in York- st., having 9088 vols. The Public Reference Library (old Town Hall) contains about 60,000 vols., includ- ing a fine series of English historical works, a remarkable collection of tracts on political economy, and a number of bibliographical curiosities, amongst which may be named ‘ The Golden Legend,’ print* d by Caxton ; and the little London Directory of 1677, with the autograph of Thos. Hearne. The extent to which the institution is used will be seen from the fact that, in 26 years, it has issued 2,079,389 vols. for reference and home reading. Nearly opposite the old Town Hall, in King-street, is the Branch Bank of England, with a Doric facade from designs by Cockerell. A more beau- 21 Route 2 . — » Town Halls ; tiful building is the Manchester and Salford Bank, in Mosley-street, the great hall of which is well worth a visit The Salford Town Hall is a Greco-Doric building, and con- tains a portrait of the late Joseph Brotherton, M.P. The Pendleton Town Hall is an Italian building by Darbyshire ; the principal room is lighted by a stained-glass window, in which the Queen is represented as “ lady of the manor of Salford ” and “ Duchess of Lancaster.’" The Free Trade Hall, in Peter-street, built, in 1806, from designs by Walters, is a very fine building in the Lombardo-Venetian style, and serves as a convenient house of as- sembly for concerts, banquets, meet- ings, or any other object which draws a large crowd together. The principal front, which is 160 ft. in length, is richly ornamented with shields of arms of the various Lan- cashire cotton-towns, and with sculp- tures intended to typify free trade. The free use of Aberdeen granite imparts colour and relieves the monotony. The interior, which will hold 5000 people, has a fine coved ceiling and richly decorated walls. Adjoining is a building originally used as the Natural History Museum , but now for the Young Men’s Christian Association. It contains lecture and class rooms, gymnasia, library and news-rooms. It is also a centre of evangelistic and philanthropic work. The Natural History collections are at present put away in the new buildings of Owens College. The collection of birds is exceedingly good ; there is also a first-rate collec- tion of minerals, fossils, &c., which has been added to and carefully arranged by the Geological Professor at Owens College, W. Boyd Daw- kins, Esq., F.R.S. The Library and Philosophical Society holds its meetings in No. 56, George-st., once a month during the winter season, and the Natural History and Micro - scopical section is incorporated with Mechanics' Institution. the above Society. The calibre of this Society ranks very highly. Dr. John Dalton was a former pre- sident, and his laboratory is preserved in the Society’s rooms. Sir Wm. Fairbairn, the great engineer, and many other men of note have been presidents and members of the Society. Manchester owns also other library and scientific associations of more than local importance, e.g. of the Chetham Society for printing memorials of the past history of Lancashire and Cheshire; of the Becord Society ; of the Spenser Society, for reprinting early poetical literature ; of the Holbein Society , for reprinting emblem books ; and of the English Dialect Society , for printing glossaries, &c., of the folk's speech of our country. The Royal Institution is a fine Doric building in Mosley-street, from designs by Sir C. Barry. The entrance hall contains a cast of the Elgin Marbles, given by George IV., and a sitting statue of the late Dr. Dalton, by Chantrey. Exhibitions of paintings are held here and courses of lectures given, to whicli the public are admitted at low prices, as well as the proprietors, who are called governors. Close to it is the Athenaeum , also by Barry, founded by Cobden and others for “the advancement and diffusion of useful knowledge.” It offers all the advantages of a social club, an excellent news-room and a library of 16,000 vols., at an annual subscription of less than one penny a day ! There are several educational classes in connection with the in- stitution. It is largely used, especi- ally by young men engaged in com- mercial pursuit. The Mechanics' Institution is situ- ated in David-street, and has a library of 17,000 volumes. Con- nected with it are some excellent schools. The Portico in Mosley- street is a proprietary library and 22 Route 2 . — Manchester : Chetham, Hospital and Library . news-room. It was founded in 1806, and has about 20,000 vols. ; amongst which may be named the ‘ Descrip- tion de l’Egypte/ and a fine MS. of Valerius Maximus, ‘ Maistre Symon de Hesdin.* The Memorial Hall , in Albert-square, is a mediaeval building intended to commemorate the memory of the 2000 ej ected mi- nisters of 1662, and was built in 1866 for religious and educational pur- poses of Nonconformist bodies. For educational establishments generally Manchester is well off. The High School, in Long Millgate, has an hon- ourable reputation among existing grammar schools. It was founded in 1509 by Hugh Oldham, Bishop of Exeter, “ out of the good mind he bore to the county of Lancashire, per- ceiving that the children thereof, having pregnant wits, were for the most part brought up rudely and idly, that knowledge might be advanced, and that the children might be better taught to love, honour, and dread God and His laws/’ — Hollingworth. He ordained that the master and usher should “ teach freely and in- differently every child and scholar coming to the school, of whatever county or shire, without any money or reward taken therefore, as cock- penny, victor-penny, potation-penny, or any other whatsoever, excepting his stipend and wages.” He at the same time devised some mills on the Irk for its revenue. The master and undermaster have each a stall in the Cathedral, inscribed ‘ Arehididas- culus ’ and i Hypodidasculus.’ The school was further endowed at both Universities in 1692, by the will of Sarah, Duchess of Somerset. It has now 250 free scholars, and others are received on payment of low fees. Mr. E. B. Langworthy bequeathed 10,000?. for the founda- tion of scholarships. Many eminent men have been educated at this school ; but the greatest of its alumni is undoubtedly Thomas de Quincey, who has left a vivid de- scription of its not altogether satis- factory condition in his youth. Close to the Grammar School is the venerable Chetham Hospital and Library , the quiet cloisters and pass- ages of which form a singular and pleasing contrast in its repose to the noise and racket of the adjoining streets. The Hospital was founded by Humphrey Chetham, a merchant residing at Clayton Hall, in 1651, for the maintenance and education of 40 poor boys. The number has now been increased to 100 boys, owing to the increased value of the property. For this purpose, the “ College,” which had been originally the “baron’s hall” and afterwards the residence of the collegiate clergy, was secured. The building is on the side supposed to have been occu- pied by the summer camp of the Romans. The Chetham Library claims to be the first in Europe which threw open its doors in abso- lute freedom to all comers. It is a perfect paradise for book-lovers and scholars. The reading-room is a charming little room with a stained- glass window and portraits of Hum- phrey Chetham, Dean Nowell (1575), Robert Bolton, a celebrated Puritan divine ; William Whitaker, President of St. John’s College, Cambridge ; and John Bradford, the Lancashire martyr : to these have been added portraits of James Crossley, Esq., F.S.A., the President of the Society ; and of the late Thos. Jones, B. A., for many years its librarian, whose con- tributions to Notes and Queries , under the signature of Bibliothe- carius Chethamensis, showed the ex- tent and diversity of his reading. The library contains about 38,000 vols., and is rich in valuable books of reference and MSS. It comprises the rare Antwerp Polyglot Bible, the Bishops’ Bible, a collection of Byzantine Histories, a number of standard county histories, a 14th- centy. copy of the 4 Flores Histori- aruin/ the compilations of Mat- 23 Route 2. — Manchester : Owens College. thew Paris, Higden’s 6 Polychro- nicon/ and a large body of docu- ments relating to Lancashire and Cheshire archaeology. There is a small collection of Oriental MSS., including Firdusi and Hafiz, and a Wickliffite New Testament; an in- edited and incomplete 4 Venetian Relation of England/ a unique 4 Tor- rent of Portyngle/ and many others. The bibliographical collections re- lating to the English poets, by Mr. S. Leigh-Sotherby ; the collection of broadsides formed by Mr. J. O. Halliweli - Phillips, the shorthand collection of the late John Harland, F.S.A., should also be mentioned. The library of J. Byrom, F.R.S., was bequeathed by his descendant, Miss Asherton, to the Chetham Library. It is rich in mystics and steno- graphies ; there is a fine 15th-centy. Aulus Gellius. There are also Saxton’s maps of the date of the 16th centy., with an autograph of Sir Christopher Hatton. The library was originally the dormitory. The hall, with dais and screen, is still per- fect, and at one end of it is Chet- ham’ s parlour. It now serves as a refectory for the boys. Close by is a fine wainscoted apartment known as the “ Audit Room.” By the dais there is a low side window, from which the alms were distributed — hence called the Dole Window. The entrance from the outside world is by a gateway from Victoria- st., over which is the motto of the founder, 44 Quod tuum, tene.” A recently erected additional school- room, by Waterhouse , has been de- signed to harmonise with the older building near it. The Owens College , now in the Ox- ford-road, is entirely a modern in- stitution, founded in 1846 by a Manchester merchant of that name, who left the principal part of his property, amounting to 97,000Z., to trustees to found an institution for providing instruction “ in such branches of learning and science as were then, and might be hereafter, usually taught in the English Uni- versities.” The college was opened in 1851, and until 1872 occupied a house in Quay-street, which had formerly been the residence of Rich- ard Cobden, and is now the County Court. In 1867 an appeal was made for funds, alike for an extension of the course of studies and for the provision of a new and adequate building. The result was the pre- sent edifice, the Owens College , an oblong Gothic structure, designed by A. Waterhouse , A.R.A., which was opened in 1872. During the past 12 years upwards of 200,000?.' has been raised by subscriptions and bequests, exclusive of the bequest in 1876 of the late Mr. C. F. Beyer, the eminent mechanical en- gineer, of the residue of his per- sonal estate, which will probably produce a sum not much less than the endowment of the founder. The capital funds of the college, includ- ing the value of the site and build- ings, amount to about 400,000/. The building is a handsome one; the chemical laboratory, forming a separate building at the rear, is re- garded as a model of its kind. The first Bishop of Manchester be- queathed his library to the college, and incorporated with it is the Manchester Royal School of Medicine , founded in 1824, and one of the most successful of the provincial schools. The library of the Medical Society , containing 22,000 vols., and the Manchester Museum , originally formed by the now defunct Natural History Society, are also in the college. The growing prosperity of the college is (1879) about to result in the establishment of a Northern University. The Lancashire Independent Col- lege (Withington) is a handsome building for the use of students for the Congregational ministry. The Baptists and Primitive Methodists have also denominational colleges. 24 Route 2 . — Manchester : Cathedral . St. Bede's College (Alexandra Park) is a R. C. institution. The Deaf and Dumb and the Blind Asylums are located under one roof near Old Trafford, in a very hand- some Early Eng. building erected principally by a Mr. Henshaw, who left 20,000L towards it. They are both open to the visitor who is inter- ested in these charities. There is another Deaf and Dumb Institution in Grosvenor-st., All Saints, for aiding the adult deaf and dumb, of whom there are about 400 in the city. As an ecclesiastical city and the centre of a diocese, it must be con- fessed that Manchester is sadly de- ficient in the outward appearance of its churches. Even the Cathedral , venerable as it is, does not soar above the dignity of a collegiate church, while many country churches exist equal, if not superior to it, in archi- tectural beauties. Nevertheless, the old church, as it is commonly called, is a fine building, and rises grandly enough over the oldest portion of the city, though even here there is but little that is coeval with it. According to Camden, “ the College of Manchester was first founded a.d. 1421 by Thomas de la Warre, as first rector of the said parish church, and brother to the Lord de la Warre, whom he suc- ceeded in the estate and honour, and then founded a college there, consist- ing of 1 master, 8 fellow chaplains, 4 clerks, and 6 choristers, in honour of St. Mary, to whom the parish ch. was formerly dedicated, St. Denis of France, and St. George of England.” John Huntington, rector of Ashton, who built the choir, was the first warden, and the collegiate body was styled “ The Guild of the Blessed Vir- gin in Manchester.” The college was originally located in the buildings now occupied by the Chetham Hospital. In the reign of Edward VI. it shared the fate of most other monastic insti- tutions and was dissolved, most of its lands and possessions falling into the hands of the Stanley family ; but after the marriage of Queen Mary it was re-established with all its be- longings and its privileges, the only change being in the title, it being called Christ’s College, instead of the College of the Blessed Virgin. The College was again dissolved by the Parliament in the 17th centy., although again reorganised at the time of the Restoration. Amongst the Wardens who were at its head were Dr. Chaderton, afterwards Bi- shop of Chester and Lincoln; Dr. Dee, who was popularly supposed to have dealings with the devil from his skill in the occult sciences ; Richard Murray, who, on preaching a very bad sermon before James I. from the text “ I am not ashamed of the Gospel,” was told by the King “ that the Gospel had much more reason to be ashamed of him Dr. Wroe, so eloquent that he was styled the “silver-tongued;” and Samuel Peploe, Bishop of Chester in 1706. Unfortunately for the building, the materials, “ ex lapide duro,” which Leland so much admired, had weathered exceedingly badly, and the whole cathedral was fast going to decay. This, however, was soon pre- vented, and a very large subscription entered into for its restoration, which, under the care of Mr. Holden , was commenced in 1845 and finished in 1868 ; the last portion of the work being the almost entire renovation of the tower, which has been built of more durable stone than the old one. The style of the Cathedral is Perp., and, as it at present stands, it is an irregular parallelogram in form, consisting of nave, side aisles, choir, Lady Chapel, western tower, porch, and a series of side chapels, which have the effect of making the width of the church to be 112 ft. — the widest parish ch. in England, with the exception of Coventry. This multiplication of aisles is very un- Route 2 . — Manchester: Cathedral. 25 common in England, though not so I on the Continent. The total length is 220 feet. The nave is of six bays. The ceiling is of wood, with tie-beams, and is illuminated in various colours. The second aisles are of later date, viz. about the end of the 15th centy., while the nave is of the early part. The chapels or chantries occur in the following order : — On the N. side of the nave is St. James’s, otherwise known as the Strangeways or Ducie Chapel. On the S. side, the one nearest the S. porch, is St. George's, known by the several names of Bibby’s, Galley’s, and Browne’s Chapel; and next to it is the St. Nicholas or Trafford Chapel. On the N. side of the choir is the St. John's or Derby Chapel, with a small supplementary one called the Ely Chapel. The Lady Chapel, at the E. end, is better known as the Chet* ham Chapel. On the S. side of the choir is the Chapter House, of oc- tagonal form, to which succeeds the Jesus or Byrom Chapel. Like the Derby Chapel, this one had a small mortuary chapel, called Hulme’s, which was removed at the Restora- tion. There are some good stained-glass windows, principally memorial, both in the nave and choir ; in the nave, to the memory of James Dunn, J. C. Harter, and Samuel Fletcher. The St. George’s Chapel contains one to the Rev. J. Clowes, and the Trafford Chapel one given by Sir Thomas de Trafford. The choir has a fine seven- light E. window by Hardman ; sub- ject, the Crucifixion. The N.E. win- dow, by Waites , is in memory of Hum- phrey Chetham, whose marble statue by Theed is placed close by. There is also a statue, by Bailey , to a Mr. Fleming in the S.E. corner, one in the S. aisle to Mr. Dauntsey Hulme, by Westmacott, representing the Good Samaritan, and memorial windows in the Derby Chapel, by Hughes and Edmondson . In the Ely Chapel is the altar-tomb of Bishop Stanley, Warden in 1481, and Bishop of Ely in 1506. He is described as “ A goodlie tawel man. as was in all England, And sped well in matters that he took in hand, An great viander as anie in his dayes.” The clerestory windows are to be filled up with scenes from the Old and those of the choir from the New Testament. The choir, which is also of 6 bays, and has a fine panelled roof, con- tains the Bishop’s throne and some beautiful tabernacle work in the canopies of the stalls, and notably in that of the Dean’s stall. Notice also the carvings of the miserere seats and the reredos, which has been substi- tuted for an ancient piece of tapes- try that formerly stood there, repre- senting Ananias and Sapphira. The subjects of the carving on the seats are figures of apes and foxes, one of which is running off with a goose. At the W. end of the stalls is the Stanley shield, and the eagle and child crest. The font (Perp.) is very elaborate, and is a memorial of the Frere family. “ The choir was built by the first warden, John Hunting- ton, bachelor in degrees and rector of Ashton. This venerable and learned divine continued to occupy his dignified station for 87 years, and lies buried in the choir, with his effigy in sacerdotal vestments and the inscription 4 Domine, dilexi de- corem domus turn ’ over his remains. The rebus of this warden is to be seen on either side of the middle arch, indicated on the left side by hunting and on the right by a tun — Huntington.” — Baines. 44 The eagles, which, instead of angels, as in the nave, rise in the choir between the capitals of the vaulting shafts and the springers of the roof, indicate that James Stanley, who became Warden in 1481 (after- wards Bishop of Ely), was connected with this part of the building.” The Lady Chapel was added by George West, brother of Lord Delaware, 26 Route 2 . — Manchester : Churches. Warden in 1518. Notice the pecu- liar circular arch leading into it from the choir. Humphrey Chetham and some members of his family are buried here. The new tower, which has a para- pet and pinnacles, is 139 ft. in height, and contains a fine peal of 10 bells, most of which were cast by the Bud- halls, a celebrated bell -founding family who lived at Gloucester in the 18th centy. The nave and tower are connected by a lofty Perp. arch, from whence the visitor gains a beautiful vista extending through the whole length of the ch. to the Lady Chapel. The roofs of nave and choir “ are on the same level, and the arch opening to the choir rises nearly to the roof, so that the eye ranges beyond the choir screen to the E. window. This lofty choir arch and the unusual intricacy produced by the double aisles are the most noticeable points/’ There are two organs, one by Father Smith in the Derby Chapel, and a larger one in ordinary use at the junction of the nave and choir. The latter, presented by Mrs. W. H. Houlds, worth, is a magnificent instrument, and was erected at a cost of over 7'OOOZ. ; the case, which is of oak, gilded, was designed by the late Sir G . Scott , B.A. The endowments of the ancient parish of Manchester are very con- siderable ; and, under the Manches- ter Rectory Division Bill of 1845, after a provision of 1500Z. to the Dean, and 600Z. per annum to each of the 4 Canons, were divided amongst the incumbents of the 93 district chs. within the ancient pa- rish, affording to each a permanent endowment of 150Z. Nearly all the churches in Man- chester, which number in the city and suburbs upwards of 90, are more or less modern, and few of them contain any object of special interest, except that some of the latest built, and particularly those in the environs, are good specimens of Dec. or E. Eng. architecture. Amongst the most noteworthy is St. John* 8 (1769), in Deansgate, which possesses some good paintings, a stained-glass win- dow, said to have been originally brought from a convent in Rouen, and a monument in Caen stone to Mr. W. Marsden, who was conspi- cuous for his zeal in the half- holiday movement. There is a monument by Flaxman to its first rector, the Rev. J. Clowes. St. Peter’s, at the end of Mosley-street, is a hideous Doric building, but has a fine altar-piece of the Descent of the Cross by A. Caracci, together with some medallions, which are of ques- tionable taste for church decora- tion. The organ is good. For any- thing like beauty of architectural style the visitor must go to the suburbs, to the chs. of St. Luke’s, Chetham Hill (good organ^), St. Paul’s, Kersall Moor, Crumpsall, Birch (the minister of which, Mr. Wiggins, is mentioned in the Lam- beth MSS. as “ a painful preacher ”), Longsight, St. George’s, Hulme, &c. At Didsbury, a suburb to the S., was formerly a chantry kirk, endowed with land for the burial of the dead, and the observance of all religious rites required in the chapelry. Ever since the Roman Catholics were ejected from the collegiate church, at the time of the Reforma- tion, they had no chapel in Man- chester till the beginning of last centy., when there was one in Smithy- door ; but they have several at the present time, amongst which the visitor should notice that of St. Augustine’s, in Granby-row, and the fine ch. of St. John , in Salford, which is of the earliest Dec. character, and has a spire 240 ft. in height. Non- conformist places of worship are numerous of every degree and kind, and, taking it as a whole, few cities are so well provided as Manchester with religious institutions. By the Census of 1851 it was shown that, 27 Boute 2 . — City Gaol ; Paries. out of a population of 491,073 (in round numbers, half a million), there were sittings for 156,473 persons. In addition to the buildings hitherto mentioned, the city con- tains the usual number of municipal and other establishments incidental to all large towns, such as gaols, police courts, workhouses, gas- and water-works. The original gaol for the Salford hundred was the New Bayley , built in accordance with the plans of Howard , the philanthropist. In 1868 the present structure was opened. It is at the rear of the Assize Courts, is Norm, in style, covers 9 acres, and cost 170,000Z. The City Gaol , in Hy de-road, has accommodation for 840. In con- nection with the latter may be men- tioned the Fenian attack on the prisoners’ van in 1868. The city is well supplied with water , vast works having been constructed in the Etherow valley, from which a daily supply of 25,000,000 galls, can be obtained, at a cost of 2d. per 1000 galls. With the exception of Glas- gow, this is believed to be the cheapest and most efficient supply of any city in the world. But even this has been found inade- quate, and the royal assent has been given to a bill to enable the water of Thirlemere, in Cumberland, to be brought to the city. The lungs of Manchester are to be found in three pretty and well-laid- out parks. The Peel Park, in Salford, em- braces an area of 40 acres, over- looking the rt. bank of the Irwell, the windings of which, and the in- equalities of the ground, have given ample scope for excellent landscape gardening and charming views up the vale. The principal object of notice is a statue of her Majesty by Noble , erected to commemorate her visit in 1851, when she was welcomed by the National Anthem sung by 80,000 Sunday scholars. There are also statues of the Prince Con- sort, of Richard Cobden, Sir Robert Peel, and Joseph Brotherton, once M.P. for Salford. The building in the park contains the Salford Library, and a museum with a valuable and interesting general collection. These were originated by Mr. Jos. Brother- ton and Mr. E. R. Langworthy ; the latter gentleman contributed 4500Z. for the purchase of books, &c., and left 10,000Z. for the extension of the Institution. Out of this sum the Langworthy Gallery has been constructed, and some pictures pur- chased, including “ The Last Sleep of Argyle,” “ The Execution of Mon- trose,” and “ The Dinner Party at Moliere’s.” Amongst the curiosities of the Museum may be named the silver cradle which the followers of Joanna South cote caused to be made in anticipation of the birth of the promised Shiloh. Notice, before leaving, the Victoria Arch , in memory of the Queen’s second visit in 1857, a fine wrought-iron gateway in a Byzantine setting of stonework, and also the Pendleton Gates, given by Lord Ducie. They were made in. Rome, and were originally the gates of Strangeways Hall. Seedley Park and Ordsall Park are 2 pretty additions to the open spaces of Salford. The Queens Park is in the Roch- dale-road, at Harpurhey, overlooking the valley of the Irk, which is here of much more natural beauty than it is while threading its underground course through Manchester. Here also is a museum, in which those interested in phrenology will find an extensive series of casts made by Gall and Spurzheim, and completed by the late Mr. W. Bally. An arti- ficial lake adds to the scenery, to which the prettily planted grounds of Harpurhey Cemetery contribute no little. The Philips Park is very pretty, in spite of its close proximity to the 28 Boute 2 . — A lexandra dense populations of Ancoats and | Bradford- cum -Bes wick, &c. Park Stat., on the Ashton branch of the Lancashire and Yorkshire Riy., is within a few yards of the park. In laying it out, advantage has been taken of the natural features of the Medlock, which flows on the N. and on a great part of the rest of the park. The Alexandra Park at Hulme was opened in 1870, and has very pretty ornamental grounds, though yet bare of trees. In addition to these open spots, the crowds resorting to which prove how highly they are appreciated, there are other places of amusement, such as the Zoological Gardens , at Bellevue, near Longsight, where, in addition to the attractions of such places, fetes are given in the summer ; and if the Southern visitor wants to see a collection of Lancashire, York- shire, Cheshire, Warwickshire, and Staffordshire operatives,, or from the Potteries, Wales, and Midland Coun- ties, he should go there on an ex- cursion day — a sight not easily for- gotten. The Pomona Palace , on the banks of the Irwell, is similar in character, though on a smaller scale and perhaps of somewhat lower resort. The Botanical Gardens , at Old Traf- ford, are- very prettily laid out, and well worth visiting. It must be ad- mitted that Manchester stands fairly well for her supplies of fresh air, even were there not a pretty and easily accessible country on its outskirts. A desideratum, however, as in most populous towns, is the construction of small childrens playgrounds here and there amidst the courts and alleys, so that not only would breath- ing places of great value be esta- blished, but the streets and the houses of the poor would be relieved to an immense extent of their daily burden of inmates. For indoor amusements there are three theatres. Park ; Fish Market. The Theatre Royal , in Peter-street, will hold 2500 people, and re- placed an older one burnt down in 1844. The character of the per- formances (in which opera is occa- sionally given) will bear comparison with those in London. The Princes (Oxford-st.) was built in 1864, and will seat 2430 persons. The other theatre is the Queen’s , in Bridge- street. Music, however, is the chief attraction, and there is pro- bably not a town in the kingdom where it is so keenly appreciated or cultivated to so high a pitch. Lancashire is notoriously a music- loving county with all classes, and Manchester has in addition a large resident population of Germans, so that it is no wonder that music finds such favour. There is a fine Concert Hall , in which, during the season, subscription concerts of high-class music are given. The Free Trade Hall (see ante) is the great locale of public performances, and it is a sight worth seeing when any particular attraction, such as one of Charles Halle’s concerts, is going forward. Indeed it is scarcely fair to mention Manchester music without the name of Halle', who, by his wonderful genius and his long residence here, has invested it with a peculiar interest. There are several music halls of a lower grade, mostly to be found in the neighbourhood of Peter- street, Deansgate and Bridge-street. The Fish Market, in close proxi- mity to the Smithfield Market , was opened this year (1879). The whole work has been carried out in uni- formity with that portion of it which was built about 7 years ago. The style is free Gothic, of a Continental type, and is well adapted to street architecture. The antiquary will find, to his regret, that modern improvements have destroyed nearly all the old halls which were once pretty plenti- ful in Manchester and the neigh- 29 Route 2. — Hulme Hall ; Manchester Worthies. bourhood, but of which, in most cases, nothing but the name remains. It will be sufficient to mention their localities. Old Hulme Hall was the seat of John de Hulme in Henry II.’s reign, and passed successively into the hands of the Prestwyches, Mosleys, Blands, and Lloyds. It was pulled down in 1764 by the Duke of Bridgewater, who wanted the ground for his new canal. Vast treasures were supposed to exist under Hulme Hall, for it is said that the Dowager Lady Prestwych always told her son that, if he continued favourable to the Royal cause, there would be plenty of assistance forth- coming. But if this was the case, it is there still, for the old lady died suddenly without being able to reveal the secret. The Mosleys also held Ancoats , Collyliurst , and Hough Halls. An- coats was rebuilt at the commence- ment of the present centy., and is now a Working Men’s Club. A similar use is made of Ordsall Hall, once the residence of the powerful family of the Radcliffes. It was originally a timbered house of the 16th centy., but has had many addi- tions and alterations. The banquet- ing-hall should be inspected. Smedley Hall (Malcolm Ross, Esq.), a seat of the Chet hams ; Strange- ways Hall, the site of the Assize Courts, of the Hartleys; Denton Hall , of the Hollands ; Birch Hall , of the Haverseyes ; Reddish Hall , Barton Hall , and Gulceth Hall , in Newton, have all disappeared. So mostly has Garrett Hall, the seat of a branch of the Tratford family, for whom the boys in the grammar-school were obliged to pray for by name in Henry VII/s reign. It was situated on tiie site of the present Brook- street, on the banks of the Medlock, whither the young men of Man- chester used to resort for snipe shoot- ing. Broughton Hall , once a seat of the Stanleys, and afterwards of the Chethams, and in modern days of the Clowes, is still tenanted, al- though the park is being built upon. Kersal Cell , the seat of the Byroms, remained in that family in the person of Miss Atherton, until her death in 1872 ; and Chorlton Hall , the seat of the Mynshulls, is a boys’ school. It is mentioned that this estate was sold in 1644 to Thomas Minshull for 300Z. ; but the value of property had so in- creased, even so long ago as the close of last century, that it fetched 70,000 1 . The antiquities of Manchester ought scarcely to be mentioned without a passing glance at the worthies who have been born here, or identified themselves with it from long residence. Amongst the most noteworthy are — Dr. W. Chaderton , Warden of the College in 1579, and subsequently Bishop of Lincoln and Chester ; — John Bradford , a famous preacher of the doctrines of the Re- formation, who was burnt for his opi- nions in Smithfield during the reign of Mary ;—Dr. W. Barlow . Bishop of Lincoln (16th centy.), of whom it is related that, when he was made : Bishop of Rochester, the poorest diocese in the kingdom, he chose for his motto, “ Discumbe in imo/’ but when he gained the richer see of Lincoln, he changed it for “ Amice ! ascende superius ! ” — Humphrey Chetham, the founder of the Hos- pital and Library ; — Dr. R. Brideoak, head master of the High School (1680), and afterwards Bishop of, Chichester, a timeserver and a favourite of Charles II. and his mis- tress, the Duchess of Portsmouth ; — John Byrom, F.R.S., a poet and wit (died 1763); -Dr. 8. Ogden , a cele- brated scholar and Professor of Ge^ ology at Cambridge (died 1778); — Dr. J Whitaker , the historian of j Manchester ; — Dr. J. Worthington, Master of Jesus College, Cambridge; — Col. Betliune-Drinkwater, author of the ‘ Siege of Gibraltar ’ ; — Dr. G. Hibbert Ware ; — Henry Liversege, 30 Route 2 . — Manchester : Factory System . artist; — Sir W. Fairbaim ; — Thos. Walker , author of 4 The Original ’ ; Thos. de Quincey ; — Mrs. Gaskell ; — Charles Swain , poet. Dr. Henry , the chemist, and Dr. Dalton , the philosopher and discoverer of the atomic theory, were residents of Man- chester ; as was also Eaton Hodgkin - son , the mathematician and engineer (1861). Nor must we forget the Rev. Hugh Stowell, who was rector of Christ Church, Salford; or that the first Sir Robert Peel was a Manchester manufacturer. The history of the factory system and the cotton manufacture will be found in the Introduction , as it more or less forms an integral portion of the history of every town in Lan- cashire. That Manchester has long been the headquarters of it, is proved by Camden’s reference to 44 Manches- ter cottons, ’’ in 1590. Lewis Roberts writes in 1641, “ The town of Man- chester buys the linen yarn of the Irish in great quantities, and, weav- ing it, returns the same again in linen into Ireland to sell. Neither does her industry rest here, for they buy cotton-wool in London that comes from Cyprus and Smyrna, and work the same into fustians, vermilions, and dimities, which they return to London, where they are sold.” Fus- tians seem, up to the middle of the 18th centy., to have been the staple trade of Manchester, together with tuckings and tapes, according to Dr. Stukeley. But although they were spoken of generally as cotton goods, in reality they had very little to do with that material, as the warp was always made of linen yam. In 1773 Ark- wright’s genius provided a warp of cotton twist, the first of the kind having been manufactured by his partners at their mills at Derby, in the face of very great difficulties, caused by the absurd enactments of the Legislature, which imposed double the duty on British calicoes to that on mixed fabrics of linen and cotton. This act having been repealed, an immense impetus was given to the trade by the invention of Hargreave’s spinning -jenny in 1764. From that time may be dated the commencement of Lancashire pre-eminence in the cotton manu- facture, of which Manchester soon became the centre. One great cause which contributed to this was the completion of the Duke of Bridge- water’s Canal in 1761 (Rte. 9), by which the town was put into close connection, not only with its immediate neighbours, but with all the principal cities of England. The impulse was tenfold when the rail- way system was introduced, and the opening of the Liverpool and Manchester Ely. in 1830 was the signal for a vast increase in trade of all descriptions. At the same time the rlys. have materially altered the relative position of Manchester to the surrounding districts. For- merly it was the centre of the factory system, containing more mills than any other place ; but gradually the number of factories has decreased, in proportion to the relative increase of the place, millowners preferring, from various causes, to erect their mills in the adjoining towns and villages. Various causes have con- tributed to this change, such as more moderate rental, greater faci- lities of water-power, and so on; while the opening of fresh rly. branches to almost every hamlet has put the manufacturers on the same footing as though their mills were in Manchester itself. The conse- quence is, that it has become the grand inland port, so to speak, or warehousing focus where the cotton of seven-tenths of Lancashire and Cheshire is sent from the country mills to be stored, sorted, packed, and sent away to all parts of the world. As a general rule, therefore, the business is transacted in Manchester, although the bulk of the actual Route 3 . — Manchester to Oldham. 31 weaving and spinning is carried on elsewhere. To this fact Manchester owes most of her characteristic ap- pearance, both as to buildings and population. Noble streets of ware- houses have arisen, of such size and splendour that they look more like a succession of city palaces ; and a walk down Portland - street or Mosley-street will at once convince the visitor of the magnitude of the trade which demands such accom- modation. A walk which will give a good idea of the principal build- ings and other objects of interest in Manchester may be taken thus : — Starting from the London Eoad Stat., you follow the avenue leading to the Exchange (Piccadilly), until the Infirmary, a domed building, is passed ; Mosley-street, by the 1. side of the Infirmary, leads to the Town Hall ; by continuing down Market- street you reach the Exchange; 5 mins.’ walk S., through Cross- street, you reach the Town Hall in Albert-square. Proceeding N. from the Exchange, along Vic- toria-street, you come to the Cathe- dral. Continuing on, turning slightly to 1., you come to the Assize Courts, in Strangeways, and so on. Conveyances . — Manchester is well supplied with the means of locomo- tion, for in addition to the main railways mentioned in p. 12, a sort of connecting girdle runs all round the city. By this means the great systems are united, and the raw cotton from Liverpool to the various mills in the district is enabled to be sent direct without transhipping. In the same way calicoes and printed goods which have to be sent to the shipping-port without being ware- housed in Manchester need not un- dergo any delay there. There is thus an intimate ramification be- tween the port, the warehouse, and the mill ; scarce any manufacturing village, which is not served by some railway branch or other. The rail- way facilities enable business men and many artisans to live in the villages and districts surrounding the city, and an extensive and ex- tending system of tramways and omnibuses facilitate intercourse be- tween every part of Manchester and the suburbs, which extend for some miles on every side. Distances . — London, 189 m. ; Bir- mingham, 76 ; Crewe, 31 ; Stockport, 6; Alderley, 13; Cheadle, 7; Stret- ford, 3^ ; Altrincham, 8 ; Bowdon, 8J ; Lymm, 13J ; Warrington, 22; Newton, 16 ; Liverpool, 30 ; Patri- croft, 5 ; Eccles. 4 ; Tyldesley, 9 ; Chester, 40 ; Wigan, 17 ; Preston, 31 ; Chorley, 22 ; Bolton, 11 ; Bury, 10 J ; Clifton, 4J ; Blackburn, 24 J ; Darwen, 20 J ; Middleton, 6 ; Boch- dale, 10 J ; Hey wood, 10 ; Oldham, 7; Ashton - under - Lyne, 6^; New Mills, 15; Buxton, 31; Hyde, 7; Staley Bridge, 8. Excursions andWalhs in the Neigh- bourhood of the City. — Peel Park, Queen’s Park, Botanical Gardens, Bellevue, Bowdon, Dunham-Massey Park, Bosthern Mere, Alderley Edge, Marple, New Mills, Prestwich, and Mere Clough. EOUTE 3. MANCHESTER TO OLDHAM, BY ASHTON-UNDER-LYNE. Like most of the Lancashire spinning districts, that of Ashton and the Cheshire border is accessible from Manchester by two railway systems, that of the London and 32 Route 3 . — Clayton North-Western and of the Sheffield and Lincolnshire. By the former line the traveller quits the city at the Victoria Stat., running through a densely populated district to Miles Platting Junc., where the Lancashire and Yorkshire Rly. is given off to the 1. Shortly after leaving the suburbs, the country becomes open and undu- lating, offering pleasant views of the Cheshire moors, backed up by the blue ranges of the Derbyshire hills, and diversified by many a “ dough ” and streamlet, picturesque enough at its source, but considerably marred and defiled when it gets amongst the factories and printing works. For miles and miles are seen tall slender chimneys, marking the localities of the various villages and towns, each one the nucleus of a considerable population entirely dependent on the staple manufacture. The line runs up the valley of the Medlock, which, although disfigured by the dye refuse, is nevertheless a different stream to what it is when pent up in its sewer-like course through Man- chester. 2 m. Park Stat. 3J m. Clayton Bridge Stat. Clay- ton Hall , nearly 1 m. to the rt., was the residence of Humphrey Chet- ham, founder of the hospital of that name in Manchester. It is now the parsonage of the new parish of St. Cross, Clayton Bridge. The old hall, supposed to have been constructed of materials from the first wooden church of Manchester, was de- stroyed by fire. “In some MSS. of receipts and disbursements be- longing to the Chethams, kept in the time of Charles II., there is an item for moneys paid to the ‘ boon- shearers ’ of Clayton Hall/’ “ Boon- shearers ” were people subject to certain rules of the lordship, such as ploughing, harrowing, and carting for the lord’s house. 5 m. Droylsden Stat. “ A singular Hall — Droylsden . wake custom was introduced here about 1814, from Woodhouses, near Fails worth, where it has been preva- lent for more than the third of a century. The ceremonial issued from Greenside (a hamlet of Droyls- den), and consisted of two male equestrians grotesquely habited. One, John, son of Robert Hulme of Greenside, personified a man ; the other, James, son of Aaron Etchells, of Edge Lane, a woman. They were engaged with spinning-wheels spin- ning flax in the olden time, and con- ducting a rustic dialogue in limping verse, and gathering contributions from spectators. Latterly a cart was substituted for a saddle, as being a safer position in case they grew tipsy.” — Higsohs History of Droyls- den. The substitution was not un- necessary, as on one occasion it is related that both performers fell off the horse from excess of joviality. An old local ballad commemorates these wakers : — “ It’s Dreighden wakes, un wey’re cornin' to teawn To tell ye o’ something o’ great reneawn : Un’ if this owd jade ill Lem ’mi begin Awl sho' yo heaw hard un how fast au can spin, So its threedy-wheel, threedy-wheel, daw, don, dil, doe.” “ Threedy-wheel ” is evidently a corruption of “tread the wheel.” Soon after leaving the junction with the Sheffield and Lincolnshire line, the tourist reaches the ancient borough of Ashton-under- Lyne. By the Sheffield and Lincolnshire route the London Road terminus is the starting point. At Ardwick Jijnc. the London line (L. and N.W.R.) turns to the S., the one to Ashton running through an unin- teresting district occupied by various manufacturing establishments. At Ashbury , 2 m., is the Britannia railway-carriage factory, and a little further on, at Gorton , are Messrs. Beyers and Peacock’s engine works. The country becomes more open at 4 m. Fairfield , where are reser- 33 Route 3 . — Ashton-under- Lyne. voirs, feeders of the Manchester and Stockport Canal. Fairfield is almost entirely occupied by a Moravian set- tlement, first planted here in 1785. 5 m. Guide Bridge Junc. with the Stockport and Staleybridge line, and of the Ashton branch with the main line. The latter soon enters Cheshire, branching again at New- ton J unc. for Hyde ( Udble . for Cheshire). By this latter route Stock- port gains another and independent communication with Manchester. 7J m. Ashton-under- Lyne ( Inn : Old Boar’s Head), althougii now a very busy cotton town, of 64,000 Inhab., has an ancient and respectable pedi- gree, deriving its name from the Saxon word aesc, an ash, and tun, an enclosed place, which is incorporated in the word Estun as found in the Testa de Nevill. The additional name was given it to signify its si- tuation on the borders of Cheshire, and to distinguish it from other places of the same name, as Ashton-upon- Mersey, and Ashton-in-Makerfield. In 1336 (temp. Edw. III.) the manor came into the hands of the Assheton family, with whom the traditions and history of Ashton are largely identi- fied, and it remained in their pos- session until the death of Sir Thomas Assheton (in the reign of Henry VIII.), whose daughter and heiress carried it by marriage to Sir William Booth, of Dunham-Massey, the an- cestor of the Earls of Stamford, who now hold it. The Asshetons were great favour- ites of their respective sovereigns, who highly esteemed their valour. Sir Kobert was appointed Governor of Guynes, near Calais, Justice of Ireland, High Treasurer and Chan- cellor of the Exchequer, and he lies buried in Dover Castle, of which he was governor. His son Thomas fought at Neville’s Cross, and had the honour of capturing there the standard of Scotland. The town and manor are [ Lancashire .] the subject of some curious traditions and customs associated with this family. “ The ceremony of 4 Riding the Black Lad * takes place on Easter Monday in each year. So conflicting are the traditions as to the cause of this exhibition that one version attaches to it infamy, and another represents it as honourable to the ancient dominant family. According to the former it is meant as an expression of perpetual abhor- rence towards the memory of Sir Ralph Assheton ; but the latter sup- position is that, in some way not very easy to be conceived, this cere- mony is intended as a mark of honour towards the hero of Neville’s Cross.” — Baines. Dr. Hibbert Ware attri- butes the custom to an old perambula- tion still carried on in some Scotch parishes called “ guld -riding,” the object of which was to get rid of a mischievous weed called “guld,’ for every plant of which, when found, the farmer was liable to be mulcted in a wether sheep. “ It appears that Ralph of Assheton,* the son of Sir John, became by his alliance with a rich heiress the lord of the neigh- bouring manor of Middleton, and soon afterwards received the honour of knighthood, being at the same time entrusted with the office of Vice-Chancellor to Henry VI., and, it is related, of Lieutenant of the Tower. Invested with this authority, he committed violent excesses in this part of the kingdom. In retaining also for life the privilege of 4 guld riding/ he on a certain day in spring made his appearance in this manner clad in black armour (whence his name of the Black Lad), mounted on a charger, and attended by a numerous train of his followers, in order to levy the penalty arising from neglect of cleansing the land of 4 carr gulds.’ The interference of so powerful a knight could not but be regarded by the tenants of Assheton as tyrannical, and the name ot* the 4 Black Lad ’ is still regarded with D 34 Route 3 . — Ashton-under -Lyne : Church . no other sentiment but horror. Tradition, indeed, has perpetuated the prayer that was frequently ejaculated for a deliverance from his tyranny : — “ ‘Sweet Jesu, for thy mercy’s sake. And for thy bitter passion, Save us from the axe of the Tower, ,And from Sir Ralph of Assheton.’ u Upon the death of the guld rider of Assheton, Sir John’s heir and successors abolished the usage for ever, and reserved from the estate a small sum of money (for- merly 10s., now 5s.) for the purpose of perpetuating, in an annual cere- mony, the dreaded visits of the Black Knight. This is kept up at the present day. An effigy is made of a man in armour, and the image is deridingly emblazoned with some emblem of the occupation of the first couple that are linked together in the course of the year. The black boy is then fixed on horseback, and after being led in procession through the town, is dismounted, and made to supply the place of a shooting butt.” — Dr. Hibbert Ware. The shooting has been long discon- tinued, but a sort of pageant is still made of it on Easter Monday, which is kept as a great holiday in Ashton. “The Black Knight of Ashton” forms one of the most interesting of Roby’s 4 Lancashire Traditions.’ The very objectionable custom of paying “heriot” existed in all its force in the manor of Assheton. At the death of the head of the family, the priest usually claimed the best beast which the family of the deceased possessed, called the mor- tuary beast, as a supposed quittance of all unpaid claims of tithe. Asshe- ton, however, had the additional tax of a heriot to be paid to the Lord of the Manor, who claimed the best beast, the second best going as a mortuary offering to the priest. This latter was a sort of fee or honorarium, and called “a corse-present,” but eventually grew into a claim, and was exacted as a right by the clergy till the Reformation. There was also an obligation to grind corn at the Lord’s mill, on his own terms of payment; but when the owner’s corn came to be ground, the miller was obliged to take every- body else’s out of the hopper until the Lord’s supply was furnished* No wonder that, under the cir- cumstances, the Lords of Assheton were not the most popular. The old manorial Corn Mills are still in ex- istence, though now partly converted into cotton-mills. From “ The Custom Roll ” it appears that John of the Edge was miller in 1422, and that he paid 16s. 4 d. for rent. The church was originally founded in the 15th centy., but it has been so often repaired and enlarged, and par- ticularly in 1821, when it was nearly destroyed by fire, that scarce any- thing is left of the original building. A steeple was added at the close of the last centy. Concerning the ch. it is told that, while the workmen employed on it were one day amusing themselves at a game of cards, a woman came up and asked them to turn up an ace, promising that, if they did, she would build several yards for them. The ace was ac- cordingly turned up, and she fulfilled her promise. The real truth seems to have been that Lady Elizabeth Assheton, finding the men idling during the building of the steeple, desired them to add her arms to that of her husband, and they were accordingly placed on the S. side — Assheton impaling Stavley; but subsequent repairs have destroyed them. The shape of the escutcheon, something like an ace, may have given rise to the story. Some curious arrangements were made by Sir John. “ We find him assigning the forms or benches to his tenants ; but the names for whose uses they are appointed are all females. From this it may seem that seats in our 35 Boute 3 . — Stamford Bark ; Gallows Meadow. churches were first put up for their convenience. Eighteen forms or benches are mentioned for the occu- pation of one hundred wives and widows, who are named, besides their daughters and servant wenches. Their husbands had not this privi- lege, being forced to stand or kneel in the aisles, as the service required.” The document which contains these rules is adorned with a rude plan of the ch., containing the names of the different occupants on their respective benches. On one is “ Uxor Thomse de Claydon, Uxor Radulphi de Wood and their servants and other gentils strangers and on another is inscribed, “ Ten- ants wynches of Sir John the Byron that dwel yon with him.” The interior of the ch. contains Some very old stained glass, some tabernacle work in the chancel, and several ornamental effigies of the Assheton family. One of the former rectors of Assheton was a brother of Lord Fairfax, who had to fly during the Civil Wars, and into whose place John Harrison, described as an orthodox though painful minister, was inducted by a party of soldiers. Ashton contains 7 other (modern) chs., One of which, St. James’s , has good stained glass in the chancel. Amongst other buildings are the Town Hall, erected in 1840 — it, from designs by Young , in the Corinthian style, and enlarged in 1878, stands in the market-place ; the Oddfellows’ Hall , in Stamford-street ; the In- firmary, a handsome Elizabethan building, prettily placed on high ground ; and the Mechanics' Insti- tute, built in 1861, and containing a library of 4000 vols. The streets are remarkably wide and well laid out, a circumstance that the town owes to the constant presence of Lord Stamford s surveyors. Stamford Park was opened in 1873, and given by Lord Stamford to the towns of Ashton and Staley Bridge. In the centre stands the Museum, a large building designed for the uses of a library, picture-gallery and museum ; and near it is placed a memorial to a local botanist. The Old Hall , formerly the ba- ronial residence of the Asshetons, has been partially restored, and is the occasional residence of the Earl of Stamford. Adjoining it is a stone building, flanked on the E. and W. by towers, and having a conical roof. This is called the Dungeon, and was formerly known as the Bestal (Bas- tille?), which was held by Thomas Stayley at the rent of one penny. The Asshetons appear to have held summary jurisdiction over the dwellers on their lands. “ In the Harleian MSS. mention is made of annuities being paid to Sir Ralph, with divers lordships, and a tun of wine yearly. So powerful was his jurisdiction, that a grant was made to him to the effect that, if in cases of emergency suitable persons could not be procured for the trial of delin- quents, his own authority should be sufficient for the purpose.” — Moby. Under these circumstances it is pro- bable that the Bestal seldom lacked an occupant, especially when the lord happened to be of a tyrannical nature like Sir Ralph. The Galloivs Meadow , where they executed refrac- tory offenders, is now occupied by the goods yard of the rly. The manor of Ashton is still governed by a formidable list of officials, in- cluding a mayor, a leet steward, 3 high constables, 4 assistant con- stables, 12 to 24 jurymen, 12 by-- law men, 2 bailiffs, 2 pounders, 3 afferers, an inspector of weights, 2 market lookers, an ale-taster, and 2 bellmen. Ashton is largely dependent on the cotton trade, but many thou- sands of its population derive their income from the iron, hat, and silk, trades. Formerly wool was the staple manufacture, but that has long been d 2 36 Route 3 . — Ashton — Limehurst . given up. The parish contained in 1867 122 cotton-mills, the aggregate of which employed 6833 horse-power, 16,770 power looms, and 2,278,000 spindles ; and now (1879) it is es- timated that there are 3,000,000 spindles in use. In connection with the Oxford Mills , it may be men- tioned that a fine building, containing Free Baths, Library, &c., has been erected by the owner for the use of his workpeople. 1 m. from Ashton on the Mottram Road is Staley Bridge , a busy cotton town, of some 35,000 inhabitants. {Inn : Castle.) It was incorporated in 1857, and returns one member to Parliament. The river Tame di- vides it, one-half being in Lanca- shire, and the other in Cheshire. Its principal buildings are of course all modern, including a Town Hall, Public Baths (the gift of Mr. Platt), and 7 churches. It obtained its name from the Stavley or Stayley family, which intermarried with the Asshetons. Robert de Staveley held these lands in the time of Richard III., and Thomas Assheton married Margaret de Staveley, whose arms, with those of her husband, were placed on the steeple of Ashton- under-Lyne ch. A hundred years ago there were only 140 inhabitants in Staley Bridge, and the first cotton- mill was built in 1776, by a person named Hall, who introduced ma- chinery, but thereby underwent so much popular odium that he was forced to keep his mill regularly garrisoned. At that time the village only boasted one dyer, whose only assistants were a couple of mastiffs, whom he had trained to turn a little mill in which the ingredients were ground. Dukinfield (see Hdbk.for Cheshire) is a suburb of this town, and is included in its boundaries. Like Ashton, Staley Bridge is well supplied with conveniences of car- riage, both towns having 2 inde- pendent lines of rail, besides 2 or 3 canals. For a good view of the dis- trict ascend Wild Bank , H m. rt. (in Cheshire), which is 1300 feet in height. The neighbourhood of Ashton abounds in the residences and villas of manufacturers and others interested in the place. There are also a few old houses, such as Buckley Hall (1 m. to the W.), built by Mrs. Elizabeth Buckley in 1618, which, though now decayed, shows some old-fashioned features in its windows and ornamental brickwork. Cinder- land Hall , near it, was the residence of the Cinderlands in the 12th centy., and is fitted up internally with good woodwork. At Woodhouses, a hamlet to the N. of Cinderland, are some old houses, called Diamond, Within, and Brick Halls; and on the bank of the Medlock at Water- houses is an old timbered house, called Woodhouse , built by Gregory de Bardsley in 1422. Taunton Hall , near to Ashton, of which there is but little left, was the residence of Thomas Claydon in the reign of Henry YI. Hurst , a large village forming a suburb of Ashton, stands 1J m. N. of the town. Most of the inhabitants are employed by the Messrs. Whit- taker, who have built a church and school for their workpeople. At Higher Hurst are the barracks, erected in 1843 at a cost of 42,000Z. From Ashton the journey north- wards may be completed to Oldham by 2 routes. The most direct is by the Manchester, Sheffield, and Lin- colnshire line. 2 m. on rt. is IAme hurst, the estate of which was called John of Jerusalem’s Land, and be- longed to the Knight’s Hospitallers. The tenant was compelled to bring a rose on the feast of St. John the Baptist, as an acknowledgment of lm tenure. 8 1 m. at Parkbridge Stat. the line crosses the Medlock, and there are large ironworks, the property of the 37 Route 3 . — Oldham Lees family, which has resided at Parkbridge for more than a cen- tury. On 1. is the cotton village of Bardsley , and in the grounds of Bardsley House (W. Hulton Harrop, Esq.) is a very large oak-tree, the branches of which cover an area of 1360 square yards. Further on (1.) is Deanshut , an old house built by the Sandifords in 1611. 10£ m. Oldham Stat. By the London and N.W. route, the main line to Huddersfield and Leeds, it is a more circuitous but much prettier journey to Oldham. Passing Staley Bridge, the line follows the valley of the Tame, which here divides Lancashire from Yorkshire. 3 m. (from Staley Bridge) Mossley Slat. The high grounds of Brown Edge and Hartshead are worth ascending for the sake of the view on the Yorkshire Moors. On the latter there is an unfinished tower or pillar, intended to supply the place of an older one, which fell in 1794. To the W. of Hartshead, near the farm of Twirl Hill, is the old Tythe Stone , to which the farmers of the district came for centuries to pay their tithe to the Rector. At Knott Hill is the reservoir which supplies Ashton with water, containing two hundred million gallons. The banks are prettily laid out and planted. 1| m. E. of Mossley, on the hills, is an old British earthwork, known as Bucton Castle. From traces of a Roman road running beneath it, it is probable that it was sub- sequently utilised as a castrum. Beyond Mossley Stat. the line enters Yorkshire, to 5 m. Greenfield Junc., from whence the traveller goes westward some 3 or 4 m. through a broken and picturesque country. A tunnel is passed through to 6 m. Grotton Stat. Grotton Hall , the ancient seat of the Buckley family (now represented ; Public Buildings. by Sir E. Buckley, Bart.), has been modernised, but still retains its cen- tral hall with wainscoted walls. In one of the bedrooms were found a suit of armour and a number of swords. 6J m. Lees Stat. The adjoining village of Hey is of considerable an- tiquity, and there was built here, in 1742, a chapel of ease to Ashton mother ch. 8 m. Oldham ( Inn : Albion) is one of the most important of the South Lancashire cotton towns, containing a population of 113,000, entirely de- pendent on the manufacture of fus- tians, velveteens, calicoes, cotton and woollen cords, &c. Formerly it was celebrated for its hats, the making of which is still largely carried on, and it is to the munificence of Mr. Henshaw, a hat-maker, that Oldham is indebted for its excellent Blue- coat School, and Manchester for its Blind Asylum. All the buildings in Oldham are modern, and the parish ch., which is Perp. in style, was rebuilt in 1829, and many new chs. have recently been built. The places worth notice are the Town Hall, the Lyceum, the School of Science and Art, mainly esta- blished by Mr. Platt, M.P., the Blue- coat School , a handsome Gothic building, to contain 120 boys, and the Alexandra Parh , opened in 1865, and partly begun as a means of affording work to the distressed ope- ratives during the Cotton Famine. Before the Town Hall stands the Platt Memorial , erected in 1878, and consisting of a bronze figure of John Platt, M.P., supported by 4 emblematical figures. A Grammar School , founded in 1611 by one of the Asshetons of Chadderton, is now used as a bakehouse, and is the oldest building in the town. Hidden in the back lanes are some ves u tiges of the older town ; as Bent HaU, a house of the Radcliffes, and Cham - 38 Route 3 . — Oldham — Milnrow < her Hall , of the Oldhams. A house in Church-lane bears the following inscription : “ Nunc mei, mox hujus, Sed postea nescio hujus.” Probably no place has increased faster than Oldham. A century ago it was a large village, and at the commencement of the present cen- tury the pop. was but 12,000. The collieries, which lie thickly in this neighbourhood, have partly contri- buted to the increase, but the cot- ton trade has been the main cause. Some of the finest factories in the county are to be found here. Nor should mention be omitted of the splendid establishment of the Messrs. Platt , who, as machinists, have a world-wide reputation. “In 1794, when the first steam-engine was used here, there were only 12 mills. In 1866 there were 120, containing three million spiudles, with 9000 looms, employing upwards of 28,000 hands, and producing 2,780,000 lbs. of yarn per week ; which is equal to a consumption of one-ninth part of the entire consumption of cotton in Great Britain. There are now (1879) 250 cotton mills, containing 9,000,000 spindles and 14,000 looms. The cotton trade has experienced an extraordinary development in this town during recent years. About 50 new mills have been erected, principally for cotton, containing nearly 5,000,000 spindles, and having a capital of 2,720,000Z. These mills were started under the Limited Liability Act ; the first was built in 1858, and promoted by members of a Coal Co-operative Store. In 1874 the floating of new companies be- came a mania; new and old mills were launched indiscriminately, and, for a time, there was great prosper- ity. Shares reached their highest in 1874, when 5 1, shares in the Central Mill were selling at 40 1. premium. In 1875 a reaction com- menced, and most of these concerns are contending with adverse ba- lances.” By means of the London and North - Western , the Manchester, Sheffield , and Lincolnshire , and the Lancashire and Yorkshire systems, Oldham is placed in direct com- munication with Leeds, Rochdale, 7J m., Ashton, 9 m., and Manchester. Continuing northwards by the Lancashire and Yorkshire line, the traveller arr rives at Royton Jung. The village of Royton , prettily situated in a deep valley, lies lj m. N.W. It belonged in the 13th centy. to the ancient family of the Byrons, ancestors of the poet, and the Hall is now the property of Sir Joseph P. P. RadclifF, Bart. It is worth mention, as an example of the re- fined taste of many of the weaving class of workmen, that there is in Royton a flourishing Botanical So- ciety, first established in 1794 by John Mellor, a weaver. 3 m. (from Oldham) Shaw Stat. The country becomes bleak and un- interesting. 4J m. New Hey Stat. 5 1 m. Milnrow Stat. The ch. here (rebuilt in 1869) was formerly an oratory belonging to the Byrons of Butterworth Hall. Milnrow, how- ever, founds its reputation on being the residence of John Collier, other- wise known as “ Tim Bobbin,” cele- brated as painter, musician, poet, and village schoolmaster; and, besides which, his own bookseller, often carrying his works about with him, sometimes glad to receive payment in kind. We read in his account book, “ Paid John Kenyon a book for a wig ;” “ Exchanged a book of ‘ Hu- man Passions/ for 3 lbs. of thread at 3s. per lb. ; blue tape J a yd. ; tape Id. a knot ; a gross of laces.” His poems are largely read and quoted in the district, and are rich specimens of Lancashire humour and broad ver- nacular. His best is the Dialogue between Tummus o’ Williams o’ Mar- git’s o’ Roaph’s and Meary o’ Dick’s o’ Tummy's o’ Peggy’s. “ The vil- 39 Boute 4 .- — Manchester to Burnley . lage of Milnrow lies on the ground not unlike a tall tree laid length- wise in a valley, by a river-side. At the bridge its roots spread them- selves in clots and fibres in all directions, while the almost branch- less trunk runs up, with a little bend, above half a mile to Oldham, where it again spreads out in an umbrageous way at the small fold called Butterworth Hall.” The late Canon Raines, a well-known Lanca- shire antiquary, was vicar of Miln- row 46 years. 7J m. Rochdale (Rte. 4). ROUTE 4. MANCHESTER TO BURNLEY, BY MIDDLETON, ROCHDALE, AND TODMORDEN. The traveller quits Manchester by the Lancashire and Yorkshire Rly.. from the Victoria Terminus, and turns off at 1 J m. Miles Platting Junc. with the Ashton line (Rte. 3), On 1. are Collyhurst Hall , an old seat of the Mosleys, and Whit- worth Hall , now a labourer’s cottage, but once the residence of the Whit- worth family. 2J m. Newton Heath Slat, for Failsworth. 1 m. 1. is Harpurliey , a suburb of Manchester, in which the Queen’s Park is situated ; and further north, on the Rochdale road, is Blackley (pronounced Blakeley), where is the damask-weaving fac- tory of the Houldsworths. In old times Blackley was celebrated for its park, which possessed a deer-leap, and was worth “ in pannage, aery of eagles, herons, hawks, honey-bees, mineral earths, ashes, and other irones, fifty-three shillings and four pence.” Blackley Hall , now de- stroyed, formerly belonged to the Leghs, and was celebrated for the “boggart ” which tenanted it. 5| m. Middleton Junc. A branch line on rt. goes to Oldham (Rte. 3), which is well seen on the high ground some 3 m. distant. Just within the comer of the line, on rt., stands Foxdenton Hall , the seat of a branch of the Radclyfie family. It is a large house of the 17th centy. The estate was con- veyed by Margaret Chadderton to her husband John Radclyfie, son of John de Radclyfie, in the reign of Rich. II. Sir William Radclyfie, a descendant of this branch, was taken prisoner by the Parliamentary forces at Marston Moor, 1644 {see Rad- clifie, Rte. 5). A short branch line on 1. leads to 6 m. Middleton {Inn : Boar’s Head), a busy little manufacturing town, which, like Oldham, was a mere hamlet at the close of the last centy., but which, with its suburbs of Rhodes and Tonge, now contains a population of 20,000 dependent on collieries, silk weaving, and calico printing. The country all about the neigh- bourhood of the Irk is very pictu- resque and broken, and especially at the head of the valley at which Middleton is situated. In very early times the manor was attached to the Honour of Clitheroe, and was held by the De Lacys, Earls of Lincoln. The family of De Middleton held the manor until the reign of Ed- ward II., when Agnes de Middleton conveyed it to John de Barton, whose descendant, Margery, brought it into the Assheton family by marriage, in 41 Route 4 . — Middleton : Church ; Old Hall. the latter part of the 15th centy. Soon after the death of Sir Ralph Assheton, in 1716, the then repre- sentative of the family, it came by marriage into the possession of the Lords Suffield, where it remained until 1848, when (sad ending to its joint descent) it was bought by Messrs. Peto and Betts, in whose possession it remained until the dispersal of their estates by the great failure of 1861. The church , supposed to have been originally founded in the reign of Henry III., was partly rebuilt in the 16th centy. by Richard Assheton and his wife, and was further added to in 1847. It consists of nave and side aisles, chancel, tower, and three chapels, called respectively the Rector’s, Hopwood, and Assheton Chapel. There is a remnant of the old Norm. ch. in the arch between the nave and the tower. The Assheton Chapel is at the S.E. corner, and contains amongst monuments and remnants of that family some of the armour of Sir Richard Assheton, which on his return from Flodden he deposited here and dedicated to St. Leonard, the patron saint of the ch. There is also a stone altar with 5 incised crosses. Amongst the monuments is one to Sir Ralph Assheton, com- mander of the Lancashire forces (d. 1650), and his wife, and to Sir Ralph, the last of the line (d. 1765). The Rector’s Chapel contains a stained-glass portrait of Thomas de Langley, Bishop of Durham and Chancellor of England, a native of the parish. The Hopwood Chapel has the monuments of the Hopwoods of Hopwood. The rails which shut off the chapel from the remainder of the ch. are of the date of Charles II. Notice also the oak screen which divides nave and chancel. It is of 9 compartments, and contains shields of the Bartons, Asslietons, Rad- clyffes, Byrons, and Stanleys. The .ch. contains some good brasses , on the N. of the chancel floor, to Richard Assheton and his wife, 1618 ; and on 2 supplementary brasses are their 6 sons, all kneel- ing, except the child in swaddling clothes and the two daughters. To this succeed brasses of a lady and three men, one a yeoman, the other two military — these represent Alice, wife of John Lawrence, and her subsequent husbands Richard Rad- cliffe de Tower and Thomas Bothe de Hackensall, 1531. In the centre is an ecclesiastic— Edmund Asshe- ton, Rector of Middleton in 1522. In the S. of the chancel are brasses to a gentleman and his wife, their 7 sons and 6 daughters. There is some remarkably inter- esting stained glass. That in the chance] window was transferred from the Rectory, known as the u Old Hall,” and contains the arms of the Asshetons and the families with whom they have intermarried. “ In the N. window is a group of figures representing persons of note in the neighbourhood, to whom tradition has assigned the honour of having led the Middleton bowmen in the battle of Flodden Field — though a discrepancy in the date, which is 8 years antecedent to that battle, seems to negative the suppo- sition. In this antique group we have the chaplain, Henry Taylor, and the 17 warriors, all in a kneel- ing posture, and each bearing on his left shoulder his bow, with relaxed string, while his quiver, charged with arrows, is slung on his back. A mutilated inscription, strangely transposed in repairing the window, invites the parishioners to pray 4 for the good estate of Sir Richard Assheton and those who glazed this window, and whose arms and pictures are shown above/ ” The Rectory, or lt Old Hall ” (moder- 41 Route 4 . — Middleton — Heywood Hall. nised and lately rebuilt), still retains some of the buttresses and a portion of the moat, with the loop-holed wall for the discharge of arrows. As late as the end of the last centy. it was entered by a drawbridge and a bridgehouse. Middleton possesses a good Gram- mar School, founded in Queen Eliza- beth’s reign by Alexander Nowell, Dean of St. Paul’s, who endowed it with the Manor of Upberry and Rectory of Gilham in Kent. But Sir Edward Hobie, who was lessee of the property, diverted the rents of Middleton School to his own use, to prevent which the dean was obliged to petition the Keeper of the Great Seal. This document is still preserved in the Harleian MSS. The trade carried on at Middleton embraces calicoes, nankeens, ging- hams, checks, and the weaving of silk, which, however, does not seem to prosper. The Messrs. Schwabe have very large print works at Rhodes, which give employment to 1000 hands. In the neighbourhood are Lang- ley Hall, an old brick building — Cardinal Langley was born there, Bhodes House (Mrs. Schwabe), Litch- ford Hall (now a school), Alkring- ton Hall (W. H. James, Esq.j, once the seat of the Levers, where Sir Ashton Lever collected his cele- brated museum, contemporary with the Towneley Museum. In 1785 he obtained permission to dispose of it by lottery, and it was drawn by a Mr. Parkinson, who, after exhibiting it for some time, sold it. Continuing northwards from Mid- dleton, on rt. of the rly., is Chadder- ton, a village principally tenanted by handloom weavers. Chadderton Hall was formerly the property of the Traffords, one of whom took the surname of Chad- derton, but by marriage it subse- quently passed into the hands of the Radcliffes, Ashtons, and, by pur- chase, to the Hortons, The old Hall is going to decay, but lately con- tained some memorials of its former greatness in the portraits of the Horton family and the old oak stair- case of the date of Charles II. In 1536 Lawrence Chadderton be- came the first Master of Emmanuel College, Cambridge. So highly was he esteemed for his learning that he was chosen by James I. to be one of the Commissioners for translating the Bible. Not far from the village is the Oldham cemetery, the town of Old- ham being about 2 m. distant. A little further (on 1.) is Hopwood Hall , which has been the seat of that family from the 13th to the 18th centy., when it was devised to Mr. Gregg, who assumed the sur- name of Hopwood. Galfridus Hop- wood is mentioned in 1441 as one of the witnesses to the licence for the foundation of Manchester ch. The house, originally a quadrangular building of the time of Henry V III., has been modernised. In 1855 Hop- wood was the subject of a famous Lancashire will case, which ended in the estate being secured to Capt. Hopwood, the present owner. 8J m. Blue-pits Junc. [From hence the branch to Heywood and Bury is given off. Heywood , 70 years ago a small village of hand- weavers, is now a populous manu- facturing town of 10,000 inhabitants, to the growth of which the family of Peel contributed much, the first mill that was started here being built by the father of the first Sir Robert. Heywood Hall (W. Roberts, Esq.), an old ivy-covered house, was the residence of the Heywood family. Peter Heywood of this family is said to have been mentioned by Lord Clarendon in his ‘ Great Rebellion,’ whose fortune it was to contribute to the discovery of the conspirators implicated in the Gunpowder Trea- son, and who narrowly escaped as- sassination at a subsequent period 42 Route 4 . — Rochdale : Town Rail. by the hand of a frantic Dominican friar, for urging “ poor Catholics to take the oath of supremacy and allegiance.'’ The scenery of the Koch, a little to the N., is in many places very charming, but is better visited from Rochdale.] 10 J m. Rochdale ( Inn : Wellington, poor), in ancient charters called Racked or Reced-ham, is now a busy and important town, contain- ing upwards of 40,000 people actively engaged in manufacturing pursuits. Cottons and calicoes form a large por- tion of the trade, but the proximity of the Yorkshire border is shown in its woollen factories, which monopolise the greatest amount of industrial energy. Fustians, flannels, and friezes, are also made here in con- siderable quantities, and a number of villages in the neighbourhood contribute to swell the u hands,” for there is scarcely a hamlet without its woollen or cotton mill. One reason of this is the broken and romantic nature of the ground, which is watered by several boun- tiful streams, affording a constant water supply. Few manufacturing towns have such pretty scenery at its doors as Rochdale, situated as it is on steep ground above the junction of the Roch with the Spodden. Toge- ther with the picturesque doughs and dells formed by these streams there is an unusual number of old houses, which have survived de- struction, and which add much interest to the locality. Curiously enough, there is no real township of Rochdale, but it is an aggregation of four other townships, Castleton, Spotland, Hundersfield, and Butter- work. The old manor, which be- longed to the Lacys, passed from them to the Ellands, who held it in partnership with the Saviles in the 14th centy. The ancient chief rents, payable to the lord of the manor, are still called “ Saville rents.” The Duchy rents are called “ Rex rents,” from the moiety of the manor having been acquired by John of Gaunt with the co-heiress of Henry Duke of Lancaster. In the reign of Henry VII. the manor merged in the Crown, and was leased to Sir John Byron, whose descendants af- terwards purchased it of the Crown, and held it until 1823, when they sold it to the present possessors, the family of Dearden. The largest por- tion of the town is on the rt. or N. bank of the Roch, the district tb the S. being in Castleton. The parish ch. of St. Chad is of a de- based style of architecture, although it possesses some ancient features in its interior. It consists of nave and aisles, chancel, a low tower, and a chapel of the Holy Trinity at the end of S.E. aisle. The nave and S. aisle were rebuilt in the 16th centy., and the choir is of earlier date, and is lighted by a fine E. window, filled with stained glass. The ch. contains monuments and gravestones to the families of Halliwell, Holt, Chad- wick, and Walmesley, also a modern tablet in memory of Sir Bertine En- twistle , who was long in the service of Henries V. and VI. He was present at Agincourt, and eventually killed at the battle of St. Albans, 1455. The original inscription in brass ran thus — “ Here lyeth Sir Bertine Entwisel, Knight, who was bom in Lancaster- shy re, and was Viscount and Baron of Brybeke, in Normandy ; Bailiff of Constantine, who died fighting in King Henry the Sixth’s party, the 28th May, 1455, on whose soul Jesu have mercy.” The Town ' Hall is a fine new Gothic building, erected in 1869, from designs by Mr. Crossland . The length of the north front is 220 feet, and the height of the tower 150 feet. There is also a handsome Public Hall of Italian design. The Free Library now (1879) pos- Route 4 . — Grammar sesses 26,844 volumes. Among the additions to the collection are several of local interest from the library of the late Canon Raines. The Grammar School is a modern Elizabethan building on Sparrow Hill, founded by Dr. Parker, 2nd Pro- testant Archbishop of Canterbury, in 1562. Rochdale has for many years held a position of some notoriety in English politics, from its association with the family of Bright, which owns a large cotton-mill at Field House. The Rt. Hon. John Bright, member for Birmingham, resides at Rochdale. The town also has the honour of being the first place in England that started the sys- tem of co-operative stores, which present here an important social feature, although it is doubtful whether they are a financial success in every case. The Equitable Pioneers Soc. number nearly 7000 in their ranks, and the North of England Co-operative Soc. more than 32,000 ; the system is extended to various branches of business, such as corn- mills, land and building, manufac- tures, &c. The New Central Store, at St. Mary’s Gate, cost 10,000Z., and is worth seeing. The clothing trade took root here at a very early period, “ many of the Flemish emigrants in the reign of Edward III. having made their abode in the western part of the parish, where they introduced their craft as clothiers. Two centu- ries afterwards, Rochdale still con- tinued famous for its woollen manu- factures, and the aulnager of Queen Elizabeth found it necessary to em- ploy a deputy here for the stamping of woollen cloth, under the authority of the Act passed in 1566.” A large trade too arises from collieries, be- sides quarries of stone and flags in the neighbourhood ; and facilities of traffic are given by rail into York- shire, Manchester, Bury, Bolton, and N. Lancashire ; the Rochdale Canal, too, connects Manchester with the School ; Clegg Hall. 43 Calder navigation at Sowerby Bridge, near Halifax. The immediate neighbourhood of Rochdale is exceedingly picturesque and interesting. To the S., on the Manchester road, is Castleton — a lofty mound and fosse being all that is left of the old castle ; but a portion of the valley below is called Kil- danes, from the traditionary story of a number of Danish invaders having been destroyed here. The date of the castle must have been very far back, for the Domesday Survey does not mention even its foundations. Near it are Castle Mere (Miss Leigh), and Castleton Hall (J. Leach, Esq.), the old mansion of the Holts of Stubley. The house having become ruinous, Robert Holt rebuilt some part of it about 1630, and in 1717 it was enlarged by Samuel Chetham, Esq., who married the co-heiress of the last Holt. Inside is some tapestry, and some stained-glass windows, with the arms of the Holts, and Stanley, Earl of Derby. Foxholes , in the Wardleworth dis- trict (N.E. of the town), is the seat of the Entwisles, a member of which family was the Sir Bertine to whom the tablet is erected in the ch. Buckley Hall (Mrs. Schofield) is a modern house erected close to the scanty remains of the old hall, the seat of Geoffrey de Buckley, who fell in the battle of Evesham in the reign of Henry III. One of this family, Captain Buckley, fought a duel in 1722 with Major Crooke, in which the latter was killed, and the former found guilty of manslaughter. Near Buckley are Hamer Hall , now modernised, but in Edward IV.’ s reign the seat of the Plamers or Heymers, and Howarth or Howard l Hall, from whence is said to have sprung the original stock of the noble family of Howard. 2J m. to the N.E. of the town, on the banks of the canal, is Clegg Hall , now an ale-house, but still bearing traces of once having been a fine 44 Route 4 . — Beljield mansion, built in the 17th centy. by Theophilus Ashton. The original Clegg Hall was an old timbered house erected by Beunulf and Que- nilda Clegg, in the reign of Stephen. The present house was the scene of most extraordinary disturbances caused by a “ boggart” called “No- man,” and the notoriety thus gained extended to the whole neighbour- hood till of late years. Beyond Clegg, and near to Littleborough, is Stub- ley , the old mansion of the Holts, but it was abandoned when they migrated to Castleton, in the early part of the 17th centy. Stubley new Hall adjoins the old mansion. Beljield Hall , near Milnrow, formed part of the possessions of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem, and came by devise in 1728 from the Butter- worths to the Townleys. Some re- mains of the old quadrangular court are still to be seen. On the road to Bacup, 2 m., is Healey Hall (R. L. Tweedale, Esq.), formerly the seat of the Chadwicks, a branch of the Chadwicks of Chad- wick. The present house was built in 1788 by John Chadwick, in lieu of a house, erected by Oliver Chadwick in 1620. “ In the remote hamlet of Healey (signifying ‘ high pasture ’ ) dwelt a family, probably of Saxon origin, whose name, De Healey, from their place of residence, had in all likelihood been assumed soon after the Norman conquest. Their descendants of the same name con- tinued to reside here until the reign of Edward III., holding their lands as Abbey lands, under the Abbot of Stanlaw in the reign of Henry II., and subsequently under the Abbot of Whalley from the year 1296. In 1483 John Chadwyke married Alice, eldest daughter and co-heir of Adam Okeden, of Healey, and in his right settled at the mansion of Healey Hall, then a large unsightly struc- ture of wood and plaster, built ac- cording to the fashion of those days.” Hall — Whitworth . — Boby. The valley of the Spodden , overlooking the 1. bank of which is Healey Hall, is charmingly pic- turesque, even more so than that of the Roch — “First Roch, a dainty rill, from Rochdale her dear dame, Who, honor'd with the half of her stem mother’s name, Growes proud, yet glad herselfe into my banks to get, Which Spodden from her springs, a pretty rivulet As her attendant, brings.” — Drayton. and at this particular spot it runs through a narrow wooded glen called the “ Thrutch ” or Thrust, signify- ing a deep channel in the rocks. In this Thrutch are curious rocks, worn into circular basins by the action of the stream ; hence another name for it is the “Fairie’s Chapel.” The whole course of the Spodden is very pretty, and may be seen in a walk from Rochdale to Bacup, 7 m. la m. beyond Healey is Ihe village of Whitworth , the ch. of which is cruciform. A local celebrity is at- tached to this place, from its being the residence of the “Whitworth Doctors,” a family which, without possessing any education or qualifica- tion for surgical practice, has attained an extraordinary reputation for bone* setting. “ For three generations they have exercised their skill in their native village, and right re- verend prelates have been found in the crowd which proceeded to this modern Bethesda. The practice of the Whitworth Doctors has been comprehensive enough to embrace dogs, horses, and men; the setting of fractured limbs is now their forte, but they are also famed for the cure of cancerous complaints, scrofula, and tumours of the joint, popularly called white-swellings, which is prin- cipally effected by the agency of a powerful caustic application, bearing the appropriate name of ‘ keen.’ ” On the Bury road, 3J m., is Wol - stenholme Hall, now a modern gabled house, but once the residence of the Boute 4 . — Knoll Kill — bteanor Bottom . 45 De Wolstenholmes, from the 12th to the 17th centy. It is said that a custom still exists of the coun- try people meeting at Knoll Hill , 1 m. to the N., on the first Sunday in May, and drinking congratulatory bumpers in the spring water, on account of the winter having passed. [The Bury road should be followed for the sake of the scenery of the Roch. } m. Oakenrod Hall (A. H. Royds, Esq.), an old mansion once the seat of the Gartsides. 1 m. Roch Bank (R. .T. Heape, Esq.). Chadwick Hall , the residence of the De Chad- wykes, from the time of Edward III. to 1722. 2 m. The Roch here runs in a narrow glen, with steep wooded banks, known as Tyrone's Bed , from a legend that the Earl of Tyrone, the great Irish leader in the reign of Elizabeth, was in the habit of fre- quenting the glen as a place of con- cealment. An old mansion of the Holts, by name Grizlehurst, existed at that time, and it is said that the Earl formed a clandestine attach- ment to Constance Holt, the daughter of the house. This tale forms one of Roby’s 4 Traditions of Lancashire.’ Crimhle is the residence of Mrs. Fen- ton, widow of J. Fenton, Esq., M.P. At Hooley Bridge , 3 m., the Naden joins the Roch after flowing through a very picturesque dingle. On the S. bank of the river is Hey wood Hall (p. 41), and overlooking the Naden is Bamford Hall , a modern house (J. Fenton, Esq.), but for- merly the seat of the Bamfords, from the reign of Henry III. to the pre- sent century. m. Bury (Rte. 5).] Elys, from Rochdale to Manches- ter, 10£ m. ; Oldham, 7J ; Todmor- den, 8 ; Burnley, 17^ ; Bury, 6 ; Heywood, 3 ; Bolton, 12 m. Continuing northwards, the rly. reaches 18J m. Littleborough Stat. A short distance on the rt. is Hollingworth Lake , the great holiday resort of excursion parties from the factory towns, for whose accommodation good hotels have been built, surrounded by pleasure grounds, and containing the usual paraphernalia of boats and other amusements. The botanist will find here, and on the adjoining hills, LittoreUa lacustris , Campanula hederacea, Anagallis tenella, Parmelia saxatilis , Atricum laxi folium, &c. Littleborough is a pretty little vil- lage at the foot of Blackstone Edge, and at the entrance of the gorge of the Calder, that forms one of the principal passes into Yorkshire. The church is a small building of debased style, and contains a stained- glass window, which was brought from Stubley Hall. The pedestrian should ascend Blackstone Edge , a fine precipitous escarped hill on the rt., on the crest of which runs the York- shire and Lancashire boundary. A road strikes up it from Littleborough to Sowerby Bridge, but the steepest part is breasted by a Roman road. From the summit the visitor obtains on a clear day a magnificent view, extending to the Irish Sea and the Welsh mountains, while the whole district in the neighbourhood is wild and broken. On the return to Little- borough, pass Pike House , an old seat of the Halliwells, who resided here in the time of Elizabeth, and now occupied by their representative, Mrs. Halliwell, Beswicke, Royds. The rly. soon enters the defile, and attains its summit level at Cal- derbrook, where there is a tunnel 2860 yards in length. Close to the summitl evel of the canal at Steanor Bottom is a curious old house with an elaborate carving and the following inscription running along its whole length : — “NOMANON BY MANY EARTHCANTE STROKES THE LLTHETORMENT WORK IS DONE THATSINEL 1700 THAT COVLD NOT BE PER FORMD BY ONE * s 46 Route 4 . — Todmorden — Holme . The admirer of rock scenery is ad- vised to walk from Littleborough to Todmorden, 5 m.; for which he will he amply repaid. The valley on the rt. is bounded by a series of es- carpments, locally called “edges,” such as Blackstone Edge, Light Lazzles Edge, Stoney and Longfield Edges, on the summits of which is a series of reservoirs communi- cating with one another, and feeding tlie Rochdale Canal. The bottom of the glen is occupied by the rlv., the road, the canal, and the river. 18 J m. Todmorden Junc. The town of Todmorden (Inn: Queen’s), an- ciently called Todmaredene (—the valley of Foxmere), is most charm- ingly situated on the banks of the Calder, and at the junction of 3 val- leys which are shut in by hills of considerable height. The small old ch. of St. Mary is parochial, and still used for divine service. A new one, called Christ Church , has been built. It will be remembered in connection with a terrible tragedy, in which the vicar and his wife were murdered by a jealous factory hand. Todmorden is entirely dependent on the manufacture of fustians, satteens, &c. It stands partly in Yorkshire and partly in Lancashire, and near the j unction of 4 townships, whose united population, amounting to 16,830, has doubled in 40 years. The Water- side Cotton Mills of the Fielden family are amongst the largest in the king- dom. They are flanked on either side by a weaving shop, a room measuring 100 yards by 60 yards, lighted from above by skylights, and filled with 900 or 1000 pair of looms, placed as close together as is possible to allow passage for the 500 hands who at- tend to them. A bronze statue of John Fielden, Esq., M.P., by Foley , has been erected in the town. Stan- field Hall (Thomas Fielden, Esq.) lies on the slope of the hill over- looking the town. It was probably built about the time of Henry VII., but is much altered and modernised. Todmorden Hall , the seat of the Radclytfes in the 15th and 17th centuries, is an interesting gabled house containing some painted glass and a carved oak mantel-piece, with the arms of the Radclytfes, 1603. The neighbourhood of Todmorden is full of beautiful and romantic scenery. On Stoodley Hill , to the E., is an obelisk erected to comme- morate the termination of the Penin- sular War. At the breaking out of the Crimean War, it tumbled down, but has since been rebuilt. The main line, which turns off to the rt., runs to Sowerby Bridge, Hali- fax, and Leeds, while the branch to Burnley keeps sharp to the N.W., ascending the Vale of Calder, and passing 1 . Scaii cliff (Mrs. Crossley). At Knot's Mill , near Scaitcliff, is a remarkable rock, towering above the valley. It is referred to in Roby’s ‘ Lancashire Witches.’ 21 J m. Portsmouth Stat. The Ir- well rises in the hills on the 1. to- wards Bacup, about 2 m. distant. Portsmouth House (J. Green, Esq.). 23J m. Holme Stat. The ch. con- tains a memorial window and vault of the Whitaker family, two of whose most celebrated members were Hr. Whitaker, the antiquary and histo- rian of Whalley Abbey ; and his pre- decessor and namesake, Hr. William Whitaker, Master of St. John’s Col- lege, Cambridge, and Regius Pro- fessor of Hivinity in 1579. He was a strong Calvinist, and of rather in- tolerant views, though Bishop Hall calls him “ the honour of our schools and the angel of our church, than whom our age saw nothing more memorable.” The Holme (T. H. Whitaker, Esq.), which lies to the rt. of the rly., has been the re- sidence of this family since 1431. The house is built of wood, and has preserved most of its ancient cha- racteristics by judicious alterations. 47 'Route 4 . — Hohne — Towneley. Even up to 1717 the W. wing re- mained in its original state, and was noted for the number of hiding places it contained for priests. Great improvements were made in the last centy. by planting, nearly half a million of trees having been planted by the then owner. Op- posite the Holme is Thievely Pike, whose rocky edges are locally known as “Thievely Skirts.’’ The whole district is remarkable for its rocky and stony character, from which it obtained the Anglo-Saxon name of Cliviger — “ a rocky place.” It gives rise to the Irwell and to both the Calders, which, springing from the same marsh, flow in oppo- site directions, and fall into different seas. Between Portsmouth and Holme the scenery is rugged and broken, the steep “ doughs ” in rainy weather being occupied by waterfalls of very respectable dimen- sions. The chief of these ravines are (going west) Red water Clough, Beater Clough, Ratten Clough, EaiTs Bower, and Dodbottom Gully. The antiquary should ascend the hills above Holme House, and cross the Moor to the Long Causeway , a mountain-road between Burnley and Mytholm Bridge. A succession of stones inscribed with crosses marks the way, and are named Stiperden, Duke s, Maiden, and Stump Crosses. The Long Causeway was the road by which the Lacies travelled in their progresses from Pontefract to Clitheroe and Lancaster. The pe- destrian can proceed thus to Burn- ley, passing Ormerod House (Rev. W. Thursby). The house was erected at the latter end of the 16th centy., and has the names of the founder, Lawrence Ormerod, and his wife carved upon it. It descended to Col. Hargreaves, through the sole daughter of that famdy ; and his co- heiress married the Rev. W. Thursby. Close to and on the E. side of Ormerod is Hurst Wood, an old house belong- ing to the Towneleys, who married into the Ormerod family ; and ad- joining it is ‘ Spenser's House * where the poet is said to have retired when he left Cambridge, and to have written * The Shepheardes Calendar/ The rly. continues its course up the valley, passing rt. Bar croft, an old house of the 16th centy., now belonging to the Towneleys ; and the beautiful park of Towneley , a fine old house with wings and towers. It was once quadrangular, and the N.E. side contained the chapel, gateway, sacristy, and library, the work of Sir J. Towneley (temp. Henry VII.). On the S.W. is the hall, and a west wing was added by the present owner. The inte- rior contains a number of family portraits, including one of Richard Towneley, 1598, who was so long a wanderer in foreign countries that, on his return, he was recognised only by his dog; Christopher Towneley, the antiquary, 1608 ,* Charles Towne- ley, slain at Marston Moor ; and C. Towneley, the collector of the cele- brated marbles which are now in the British Museum, and known as the Towneley Collection, for which 20,0001. was paid. “ In this collection there is not a single statue, bust, or basso-relievo, which does not rise far above mediocrity ; and with the ex- ception of some seven or eight sub- jects beyond the hope or possibility of present attainment, it certainly contains the finest specimens of an- cient art yet remaining in the world.” The vestments of the chapel are said to have been brought from Whalley Abbey. The Towneleys claim to have been settled here since the time of Alfred. During the Civil Wars they were staunch Royal- ists, Charles Towneley, the head of the family in 1644, having been killed in the battle of Marston Moor. 26J m. Towneley Stat ., overlooking the park, and the town of 27 m. Burnley (Inn: Bull, bad). (Rte. 8.) 48 Route 5 . — Manchester to Accrington. ROUTE 5, MANCHESTER TO ACCRINGTON, BY BURY AND HASLINGDEN. The traveller leaves Manchester by the Victoria Terminus (Lancashire and Yorkshire system), the rly. parting company with the Liverpool line immediately after crossing the bridge over the Irwell. J m. Salford Stat. was for many years the Manchester terminus. 2^ m. Pendleton Stat The Peel Park is a little on the rt. Emerging from the cuttings, exceedingly pretty views are gained of the wooded heights of Broughton, Kersal Moor, Prestwich Ch., and the windings of the Irwell. The neighbourhood of Pendleton on the 1. is a favourite one for resi- dential purposes, and particularly in the prettily wooded district between Eccles and Swinton Park. Amongst the seats here are Hope Hall (for- merly the residence of Sir E. Armi- tage), described as an ancient house in 1595, but rebuilt ; Acresfield (Miss Heywood) ; Claremont (Oliver Hey- wood, Esq.), &e. 1J m. from Pendleton, on the Bolton road, is the village of Pendle- bury , and Pendlebury House. The Ch. of St. Augustine is worth a visit. It is of Geometric Gothic, built from designs by Bodeley, and is filled with some of the finest spe- cimens of modern glass by Burlison and Grylls. Still further is Swinton , where is the fine range of buildings of the Industrial Schools, opened in 1816, affording accommodation for nearly 1000 children. Close to the rly., be- yond Pendlebury on 1., is Ageeroft Hall, an interesting old wood-and- plaster hall of the reign of Elizabeth. It is quadrangular, and is entered by an archway into a courtyard. Notice the fine oriel timber window with its richly carved bracket. In the interior is much good wood- work, and some stained glass with the arms of the Langleys and John o’ Gaunt. The Langleys were its original possessors, and it passed from them in 1561 to the family of Dauntesey, and is now the residence of Mrs. Foxton. At the bottom of the hill the Irwell is crossed by Ageeroft Bridge, which leads to Kersal Moor. It is mentioned by Leland, who speaks of it as a “Bridge veri long and greate of tymbre on Irwel.” The Manchester racecourse used to be in this neighbourhood, but is now at Cross Lane, Salford. On the opposite side of the river is Kersal Cell, the old seat of the Byroms, occupied, till her death, by their descendant, Miss Atherton ; and a little higher up the stream is Irwell Park, the property of the descendants of the late Thomas Drinkwater, Esq. The course of the river through this valley is one of considerable beauty, even though its waters are none of the clearest. That this defilement is of no very modem date is shown by the MSS. notes of Mr. Rasbotham, made in 1786, who says, “ The river hath trout, shoulders, chubs, dace, gudgeons, and eels. Salmon came up it before the establishment of the fishery at Warrington, higher than this township ; but there is no such thing experienced at present.” At 4J m. rt. Clifton Junc. the Bolton line turns off to the 1. The tourist will perceive by the long 49 Route 5 . — Rhodes — Radcliffe. trains of coal trucks and the numerous chimneys and winding engines, that he is traversing the Lancashire coal- field. The district between Man- chester, Bolton, and Bury, contains some splendid coal seams, the prin- cipal of which are the Worsley, 4 ft., the Trencher Bone coal, the Cannel mine aud the Arley mine, all of which have yielded to the geo- logist a large quantity of fossil fishes (see Introduction). Mr. Bin- ney, of Manchester, has been and still is a most active scientific labourer in this direction. Clifton Hall. At Woodgate, a little higher up, Ainsworth, of Latin dictionary renown, was born. The rly. to Bury now crosses the Irwell and the Bolton Canal, leaving on rt. The Fark (R. N. Philips, Esq.). On the 1. of the rly. and on the bank of the river is Rhodes farm, of which a curious story is told in Watson’s MSS. : — “ Rhodes, of Rhodes, leaving his estate, and it being land of inheritance, and lying within the manor of Pitkin gton, then belonging to Sir John Pil- kington, the knight, desirous of purchasing the estate, applied to Rhodes ; but he, being unwilling to part with it, refused to sell. The estate is of considerable length, and is bounded by the river Irwell for more than a mile, and at the ex- tremity of the land stood a cow- house, of which Rhodes made use as a shelter for young cattle during the winter, but at other times it was disused. Into this building, it is said, Sir John ordered some of his own cattle to be put and locked them up there, giving out that they were stolen, and offered a reward accordingly. Some time passed be- fore the cattle were found. At length, as had been concerted, some of Sir John’s people found them in the cow-house, and proceedings in law were commenced immediately against Rhodes for this pretended robbery, against which he defended [ Lancashire .] himself; but the fact of the cattle having been locked up in his build- ing being notorious, and the pre- sumption of his being privy, if not a principal to the concealment, was evidence so strong against Rhodes that he was obliged to come upon terms with Sir John, which caused the loss of his inheritance. Sir J ohn afterwards forfeited the manor of Pilkington ; this, in those days, was called a just j udgment, and believed to be inflicted upon him for the above treachery.” Close to Rhodes is Molyneux , once the residence of the Mullineux family. 5J m. Molyneux Brow Slat. 7 m. Ringley Road Stat. 8 m. Radcliffe Bridge Stat., where the Irwell, which makes a con- siderable detour to the W., is crossed again by the rly., and also by a turnpike-road bridge of 3 arches. To the rt. and on the N. bank of the river is the ancient village of Radcliffe, so called in Saxon from the red rock or cliff* which overhangs the Irwell just below its confluence with the Roch. In Saxon times Edward the Confessor held Rad- cliffe, and bestowed it on Roger de Poictou, who forfeited it soon after the Domesday Survey. It then re- mained with the Crown till Stephen’s reign, when it was given to Ranulph de Gernons, Earl of Chester. In the reign of Henry II. we first hear of a De Radeclive, and for many generations that family played an important part in Lancashire his- tory, Sir Richard de Radcliffe being seneschal and minister of the Royal Forests of Blackburnshire, Of his two sons, Sir John, the younger, was the ancestor of the Radclyffes of Foxdenton (Rte. 3), while from Sir William, the 'elder, usually styled the “ Great William,” descended the Barons of Fitz waiter and Earls of Sussex. Sir John was himself known as knight of Ordshall, from having his estate there ; and one of E 50 Route 5 . — Radcliffe : Church . his successors, also Sir John Rad- elyffe of Ordshall, lost five sons in different battles within two years, 1598-99. In the same year, too, his daughter, a maid of honour to Queen Elizabeth, died of grief for loss of her brothers. Of the family of Rad- clyffe was the unfortunate Earl of Derwent water, whose title and life were forfeited through his ad- herence to the Stuart cause. “ An unbroken male descent far a period nearly coeval with, if not previous to, the Conquest — their inter- marryings with some of the noblest families of England— their deeds of valour on the battle-field, their wis- dom in the council chamber, suffi- ciently attest their antiquity and importance — whilst the mere record of their dignities proves the high rank they enjoyed. The house of Radclyffe produced 14 Earls, 1 Vis- count, 5 Barons, 7 Knights of the Garter, 1 Lord Deputy of Ireland, 2 Ambassadors, several Bannerets and Knights of the Bath, along with many Privy Councillors, warriors, and statesmen.” — Burke. In Henry IV. ’s reign, James Radclyffe had permission to enclose his manor house of Radclyffe, 44 and those walls, hall, and towers so made, to krennel and embattle.” It is now in ruins ; but even in decay shows traces of strong masonry. Only the lower story is left, a sycamore tree used to occupy the place of the others. The old hall adjoining the tower, of brick and timber, has been taken down to make room for a row of modern cottages. Radclyffe possesses to this day the tradition of a terrible tragedy, which is told in Percy's Reliques. One Sir William de Radclyffe had a very beautiful daughter, whose mother died in giving her birth. He mar- ried again, and the stepmother con- ceived a violent hatred to the girl, whom she sent one day, when Sir William was out hunting, into the kitchen, with a message to the cook that he must dress the white doe. The cook professed ignorance of the particular white doe he was to dress, and asserted that he was ordered to kill the daughter, which he did, and made her into a pie. When Sir William came home, he asked for his daughter, and the wife declared that she had gone into a nunnery. Whereupon the scullion boy de- nounced the stepmother, and warned Sir William against eating the pie. The cruel woman was burnt, and the cook was condemned to stand in boiling lead, but the scullion boy was made heir to Sir William's pos- sessions. The story is told in a ballad in the Pepys' collection called, 4 The Lady Isabella’s Tragedy ; or, the Stepmother’s Cruelty ; ’ but by other antiquaries, such as Roby and Baines, and in the Lancashire bal- lads, it is called 4 Fair Ellen of Radcliffe.’ It is most graphically told : — “ She strayhte into the kitchen went Her message for to tell : And then she spied the master cook Who did with malice swell. ‘ Nowe, master cooke, it must he soe, Do that which 1 thee tell ; y ou needs must dress the milk-white doe Which you do knowe full well/ Then stray ht his cruel, bloody hands , He on the ladye laid, Who quivering and ghastly stands, While thus to her he say’d, ‘ Thou art the doe that I must dress, , See here, behold, my knife ; For it is pointed, presentli To ridd thee of thy life.’ 0 then, cryed out the scullion boye, As loud as loud might be, * Q save her life, good master cook, And make your pyes of me/ ** Radcliffe Ch. is of Norm, date, coeval with the building of the tower. It is cruciform, and consists of nave with aisles, N. and S. tran- septs, chancel, and tower. The N. transept and chancel are of modern date, but the S. transept, called the “Sun” chapel or chantry, is of the date of the 13th centy. In the in- terior are some good modern memo- 51 . Route 5 . — Prestwick — Bury. rial windows of stained glass. The subjects are the arms of Radclytfe, with the head of a queen; another has the head of a king, which may be a portrait of Edward III. ; on another window on the W. is a painting of St. John the Evangelist. The monu- ment of James de Radclytfe and his lady, which was of alabaster, has unfortunately disappeared, owing in a great measure to the excessive veneration with which the people regarded it, which prompted them to break off bits, that they might keep them as amulets. The ch. was restored and enlarged in 1873. Near Radcliffe Bridge is St Thomas's Ch. It was, originally, in the form of an eastern pagoda, but has recently been replaced by a new ch. Soon after leaving Radcliffe, the Irwell is once more crossed, and the visitor arrives at 10 1 m. Bury Stat. [Bury may also be reached from Manchester by omnibus, which starts every half-hour from Hanging Ditch" and Hyde’s Cross. It follows the road to Broughton, passing the As- size Courts, and through a succession of villas and residences, which be- come larger and more ambitious the further they are from Manchester. A railway to Manchester taking much the same route is completed. 4J m. Prestwich. The eh., of New Red sandstone, overlooking the Irwell, consists of nave, side aisles, chancel, and chapels at the end of the aisles called the Wilton and Lever chapels. The parish of Prestwich is of great extent, being at least 15 m. in length, and embracing the town of Oldham, which was formed into a chapelry of this parish in the reign of Edward III. “ The popu- lation and wealth of the neighbour- hood increased so fast as to induce the papal nuncio in 1465 to esta- blish in Manchester a sale of indulgences.*’ The Rectory is now a modern house, but the old one, taken down in 1840, was the residence of successive rectors from 1485. It was always called the Deyne (Saxon, “ den w ) from its position at the edge of a small dough or valley. A little to the rt. of the village is Heaton Hall , the beautiful seat of the Earl of Wilton. The house, from designs by Wyatt, has an Ionic portico, and is placed in a finely wooded park, 5 m. in circumference. Heaton originally belonged to the Langleys and the Hollands, from whom it passed by marriage to the family of Egerton, one of whom, Sir Thomas Grey Egerton, was created Baron Grey de Wilton in 1784, and Earl of Wilton in 1801. The County Lunatic Asylum is situated at Prestwich. 6 m. at Whitefield or Stand there is a handsome modern ch. of the date of the 14th centy. “ The old hall of the Pilkingtons at Stand, forming the Stand in the park, from whence the place derives its name, and which, according to tra- dition, was originally a story higher than at present, with a flat roof, for the purpose of witnessing the hunting below, is still existing, and near it is a large barn, erected from the remains of a neighbour- ing chapel, which contains some curiously carved oak principals, still in good preservation. The roof of the barn, which is also of ancient carved oak, exactly resembles the roof of the S. aisle of Prestwich ch” — Baines . At Blackford Bridge the road crosses the Roch, and passes the old house of Starhies. Redvales is another old mansion, of the date of 1628.] 8 m. Bury ( Hotel : DerbjO is a busy manufacturing town of con- siderably over 30,000 inhabitants, though in 1793 it did not contain 3000. Nevertheless, it is by no e 2 Route 5 . — Bury — Walmesley. 52 means a modern town, for it is men- tioned as having been held by the Lacies soon after the Conquest, toge- ther with the lordship of Black- burnshire. Leland, too, speaks of it as “ Byri on Irwell, iv or v miles from Man- chestre, but a poore market. There is a ruine of a castel by the paroch chirch yn the towne.” Even the ruins of this castle have disappeared, and on its site a Volunteer armoury has arisen. Remains, however, have frequently been dug up, and the foundations have been traced. The church , the rebuilding of which was completed in 1876, is now one of the finest in the county. The tower and spire are as they were built in 1843. There is a R. C. ch. here, with an exquisite lantern tower by Pugin. At the back of the ch. is a steep and rather precipitous descent, at the foot of which the Irwell is said to have flowed, previous to the diversion of its course Other mo- dern buildings are the Town Hall and Athenaeum, forming part of a handsome block adjoining the Derby Hotel, to the erection of which the Earl of Derby, as chief landowner, largely contributed. Bury contains a good Free School , founded by Roger Kay, Prebendary of Salisbury in 1726. In the market-place is a bronze statue, by Bailey , of Sir Robert Peel, the statesman, placed there in 1851. Bury is largely indebted to the family of Peel for its prosperity. The first Sir Robert Peel had ex- tensive works here for calico-print- ing, and resided for many years at Chamber Hall , where his son, the future Prime Minister of England, was born. Bury first figures as a manufacturing town in the reign of Henry VIII., although then prin- cipally for woollens. In the reign of Elizabeth it had attained great importance, so much so “ that an aulnager was appointed at Bury by Act of Parliament to stamp wool- len cloth, for the purpose of pre- venting it being unduly stretched on the tenters;” so that it seems that commercial frauds are not limited to our own day. In the last centy. a family of the name of Kay lived here, one of whom invented the mode of throwing the shuttle, by means of the “ picking-peg” in- stead of by the hand ; and this was followed up by an invention of his sons in the shape of the drop-box. by which the weaver can use any of these shuttles at will, and thus weave a fabric of colours as easily as a common calico. A further improvement in cotton- spinning was made in 1791 by Mr. Whitehead, the postmaster of Bury, consisting in “pieeeing” the ends of the perpetually breaking threads while the machine was in motion. Amongst Bury worthies of earlier date may be mentioned John War- burton, born 1681, a celebrated anti- quary and Somerset herald. Bail from Bury to Manchester, 10J m. ; Heywood, 3| ; Rochdale, 6 ; Haslingden, 9 ; Accrington, 12 j ; Blackburn, 17; Bacup, 12; Bolton, 6 ; Wigan, 15 J. The line to Haslingden and Ros- sendale keeps due N., following the E. bank of the Irwell, and passing 1J m. Walmesley, near which, on the bank of the river, is an earth- work, known as Castle Steads. To the 1. is Brandlesholme Hall, now a farmhouse, but once the residence of the Greenhalghes in the reign of Richard II. A little further W. is Tottington, which, although now an insignificant village, was the seat of the Imperial Court, to which the manors of Bury, Middleton, Chad- derton, and Alkrington did suit and service. The manor of Tottington was given to General Monk as a reward for his services during the Restoration, and is now enjoyed by the Duke of Buccleuch as heir to the Albemarle estates. 53 Route 5 . — -Summer seat — Hasting den. 13 m. Summerseat Stat. The valley- now begins to close in, and becomes extremely picturesque. On rt. on the hill above is a prospect tower, erected by the Messrs. Grant, with whose name the interests and pros- perity of this valley are so deeply associated. The visitor will feel equally interested when he knows that the two brothers Grant were the originals of the Brothers Cheeryble in 4 Nicholas Nickleby.’ 2 m. E. of Summerseat is Cob House , the residence of the brave Captain Kay in 1644. On 1., under the shoulder of Hol- combe Moor, is the village of Hol- combe, most charmingly situated, and possessing a pretty Dec. modern ch. Holcombe Hill, which rises in steep terraces above, is surmounted by a lofty tower, erected to the memory of Sir Robert Peel, which, from its position, is a landmark for many miles both E. and W. Nutt- all Hall was the seat of the De Notoghs (temp. Richard II.), and after passing through many hands, is now, by purchase, in those of the Grant family, at present represented by Mrs. Lawson, Brough Hall. 14J m. Ramsbottom (Inn: Grant Arms). This is a busy little manu- facturing village, once mainly de- pendent on the cotton-mills of the Messrs. Ashton, and the print-works of the Grants, who have erected a Scotch ch., which has recently been very much enlarged. St. Andrew's, originally a Presbyterian ch. (also built by the Messrs. Grant), has since been used for Ch. of England worship. There is also St. Paul’s Ch., built in 1850. The scenery is extremely pretty, and the visitor should ascend Holcombe Hill from here, and, if he choose, cross to Over Darwen, on the Bolton and Black- burn line (Rte. 7). 15 m. Stubbins Junc. with the Bacup and Rossendale line (Rte. 6), with which the main line keeps parallel for a little distance, though gradually attaining a higher level. On the 1. is the Tor Hill, conspi- cuous for its oval form; and Mus- bury Hill, which was formerly en- closed for the lord's deer. On the rt. is the flat-topped hill of Coupe Law, where horse-races were once held. At Helmshore (Stat.) there are a few cotton and fulling mills. 19 J m. Haslingden (Inn : Commer- cial), has a busy population of nearly 11,000, which finds employment in the various cotton-mills of the town and the stone quarries in the neigh- bourhood. There is very little to see in it ; the ch. having been re- built at the end of the last century. Daring some repairs in 1857 a skull and cross-bones were dug up, the latter having gilding upon them. These were probably relics of St. James, the patron saint, which were hidden on the visit of the Chantry Commissioners, who found only “ ii lyttel belles ” and ornaments to the value of 7s. 6d. It contains a me- morial E. window to Mrs. Hoyle, and a font (date 1540) with the arms of the Holden and Towneley families upon it. A curious mention of the early church at Haslingden is made in the i Iter Lancastrense,’ a poem written in 1636 by the Rev. Richard James, and printed by the Chetham Society, from a MS. in the Bodleian Library. In the course of his ex- cursion to Pendle occur the follow- ing quaint lines : — “ Churches faire doe stand In laymen’s lands, and chappels have no land To cherish learned curates, though Sir Jhon Doe preach for foure pounds unto Hase- lington ; Such yeerly rent with right of begging corne Makes Jhon a sharer in my Ladie’s home. He drinks and prayes, and 40 yeeres this life Leading at home, keepes children and a wife. Theis are y e wonders of our careless dayes : Small store serves him who for y e people prayes.” 54 Route 6 . — Bury to Burnley . Holden Hall , 1 m. S.W., now a farmhouse, was a manor-house of great antiquity, and believed to be the residence of Robert de Hasling- den in the loth century. The scenery in the vicinity of Hasling- den (the town of the hazles) is of rather a sombre character, the hills, although of tolerable height, pos- sessing but little diversity of outline. They are of the carboniferous sand- stone age, and have evidently been much acted on by denudation. The views on the north, towards Pendle Hill and Padiham, are picturesque, and betoken that the visitor is ap- proaching the bold ranges of moun- tains which characterise North Lan- cashire. To the S. is the valley of the Irwell, terminated in the dis- tance by the Derbyshire hills, and westwards the eye wanders over Amounderness and the Irish Chan- nel. The manufactures of Haslingden consist principally of woollen goods, of the class called backings, dometts, flannels, and calicoes. 20J m. Baxenden Stat. On rt. is the Laund (J. Worsley, Esq.). 23 m. Accrington Junc. (Rte. 8 ). ROUTE 6. BURY to BURNLEY BY BACUP AND ROSSENDALE. As far as Stubbins Junc. see last route. The Bacup branch follows the course of the Irwell, at a lower level than the main line, to Accring- ton. On rt. is the straggling village of Edenfield. 6J m. Ewood Bridge Stat. 8 m. Bawtenstall (Inn : Queen’s) was, in the reign of Edward II., one of the eleven vaccaries (now known as cow pastures or booths) into which the Forest of Rossendale was di- vided, and which were valued at 10s. each, although they subsequently became worth very much more. It is now a busy little cotton town of 8000 inhabitants, with regular and well-built streets, the whole place bearing a prosperous and con- tented aspect. The traveller has now fairly entered the precincts of the j Forest of Bossendale , one of the four that at the time of the Conquest made up the Forest of Blackburn- shire, and containing about 30 square miles, or 19,505 statute acres. “ The forests were at that time not com- prised within the limits of any township, or other subdivision of property or estate, and being with- out paramount owner, were natu- rally claimed by the first Norman barons or other dignitaries, the favourites and followers of the Con- queror, who would readily endorse their title thereto, in consideration of fealty and distinguished ser- vices.” — Newbigging . The Honours of Clitheroe and Lancaster were given to Roger de Poictou, third son of Roger de Montgomery, Earl of Arundel and Shrewsbury, but they were soon forfeited, owing to his taking part in several rebellions. The Honour of Lancaster was then given to Stephen, and that of Clitheroe to the family of Lacy. Passing by marriage into the House of Lancaster, they became royal property, until they were bestowed by Charles II., at his restoration, on Gen. Monk, Duke of Albemarle, from whom they have descended to the Duke of Buccleuch, the present Lord of the Honour. A consider- able portion of the Forest of Rossen- dale was given by the De Lacies Route 6 . — Rossendale Forest — Newchurch. 55 to the Abbots of Whalley, a docu- ment, dated 1861, being in existence, static g, “ that the chase of Rossen- dale with Accrington, for herbage and other profits beyond the feed- ing of beasts of chase, is worth by the year 20 1. 2s.” In Henry VII. 's reign a commission was issued which resulted in partitioning the forest lands, and thus giving a great im- petus to cultivation, many people becoming owners of copyholds on the strength of the commission. The value of property increased until the reign of James I., when the Crown lawyers discovered that the title was bad, and thus inflicted a terrible blow on the many families who had settled here. But, after an immense amount of litigation, the matter was settled by an Act arrang- ing for the confirmation of the titles by the payment of 40 years’ rent, half of which was paid during James I/s reign, and the other half in 1650. The association of Rossendale Forest with wild animals is shown by the frequency of names connected with them, such as Boarsgreave, Hogshead, Swinshaw, Wolfstone, Wolfenden, Deerplay, Stacksteads (Stagsteads), Roecliff, Harthill, and others. It was consequently a fa- vourite hunting-ground, and subject to the rigorous laws then in opera- tion. In ancient times the follow- ing rhymed oath was taken by every inhabitant residing within the forest and being of the age of 12 years : — ■“ You shall true Liege man be Unto the King’s Majestie : Unto the beasts of the Forest you shall no hurt do, Nor to anything that doth belong there- unto : The offences of others you shall not conceal, But to the utmost of your power, you shall them reveal Unto the officers of the forest, Or to them who may see them redrest : All these things you shall see done So help you God at his holy doom.” Newbigging. The forest was governed by Greaves, or Reeves, whose duty it was to uphold the forest laws, to apprehend vagrants and robbers, and generally to superintend the affairs of the district very much as parish officers have to do nowadays. At present Rossendale is a forest only in name, the greater part of it being under cultivation as moor- land farms. The geological formation is that of the Lower Coal-measures, which crop out in various places. The highest elevations are Trough Edge End (1475 ft.), and Thieveley Pike (1474 ft.), both in the neigh- bourhood of Bacup, and Coupe Law (1438 ft.), which lies a little to the S. of Newchurch. Although the scenery is not very romantic, it is wild and open, and contains many a charming “ dough ” and seques- tered glen. Soon after quitting Rawstenstall, the rly. passes on 1. the mill of Hareholme , one of the earliest in the district, and originally built for a worsted manufactory, but now used for cotton. 10 m. Newchurch ( Inns : Royal ; Duke of Buccleuch, at Waterfoot), on high ground to the 1. of the rly., is a thriving village, de- pendent on the cotton-trade. The modern ch. (1824) superseded an old chapel of the time of Henry VIII., respecting the building of which there is a tradition that its founders three times attempted to place it in another locality, but that each time the materials were deposited at the present site in the course of the night. A similar story is told of the churches of Burnley and Rochdale. In the churchyard is a curious epitaph to the memory of John Kershaw and his wife, who founded the grammar school in 1700 : — “ They lived long beloved, And dy'd bewaiL’d, And two estates Upon one school entail’d.” Clough Fold Chapel, near New- 56 Route 6 . — Stackstead- church, was reputed to be the scene of the labours of Dr. Watts, the author of the hymns that bear his name. A modern ch. has been built at Waterfoot, near the rly. From Waterfoot a road, at right angles to the main road through the valley, leads to Burnley (9 m.), by way of Dean. This is one of those se- questered nooks of Rossendale which stands apart from the chief thorough- fare of traffic. Its inhabitants are of a simple and primitive type. They have long been distinguished for their musical ability, both vocal and instrumental, and are known far and wide as the “ Deighn Lay- rocks.” lOf m. Stackstead is the stat. for the village of Tunstead ( Inn : Com- mercial), the inhabitants of which are occupied in cotton and woollen spinning. The ch. is modern. Near the village are Fern Hill and Heath Hill (R. Munn, Esq.). Following up the valley of the Irwell, the terminus of the line is reached at Bacup ( Inns : Market ; Queen ; Green Man ; Railway), a thriving though irregularly built town at the foot of the moors, in which the river takes its rise. Although in size and importance the metropolis of Rossendale, it is not so old a place as either Good- shaw or Newchurch, the few people who lived at Bacup at the close of the last centy. being obliged to go to church or chapel at Newchurch, by a road still called “the Kirk Gate.” It has now, however, a population of over 18,000, employed in cotton-spinning, woollen manu- facture, and dye works. There are three churches, none of which pos- sess any interest, except that of St. Saviour, which has a baptis- tery. Co-operative stores find great favour in Bacup, there being a large establishment in the town, in addi- tion to four others in the suburbs. “ The capital invested in co-opera- — Source of the Irwell . tive cotton factories in Rossendale and the immediate neighbourhood amounts to nearly half a million of money ; and the shareholders range from 8000 to 10,000.” The antiquary will find, on the hill-side overlooking the very pretty dingle that leads to Burnley, an ancient earthwork, known as The Dykes. “ It measures more than 1800 ft. in length, is situated at the edge of a gentle slope, and has a trench at least 51 ft. broad at the bottom. From its position it is capable of protecting a large army in front, but it is easily accessible from the E., and must have been abandoned by its defenders when- ever the enemy had turned their flank. Its construction can only have been suggested by temporary necessities, since it has evidently been abandoned in an unfinished state.” — Wilkinson. Mr. Wilkinson, in an elaborate paper read before the Historic Soc. of Lancashire and Cheshire, con- siders that this place was one of the outworks in connection with the lo- cale of the battle of Brunanburh, which he believes was fought at Burnley, between the Saxon troops of Athelstan and the conjoined forces of the Danes, Welsh, and Scotch, under the Danish chief Anlaf. The Saxons were victorious in the affray, which was very sanguinary, re- sulting in the loss of five sea-kings and seven jarls. Bail from Bacup: — Newchurch, 3 j m. ; Bury, 12 m. ; Rochdale, 7 m. It is a charming mountain walk of 7 m. to Burnley, the road running through a prettily wooded dingle, passing on 1. The Dykes and 1. Broaddough ( J. Whitaker, Esq.). As the way ascends, the wood- land ceases, and the traveller emerges on the open moor, with its invigorating breeze. In the hollow a little to the rt., 3 m. from the town, is the Source of the Irwell , described by Harrison as 57 Route 6 . — Thieveley Pike. il a noteable water that riseth above Bacup and goeth thence to Rossen- dale.” The district in which it rises, though to all intents and purposes part of Rossendale Forest, is geographically in Cliviger, a wild moorland extending northwards, the inhabitants of which are said to have removed these landmarks further south than they were en- titled to, and thus gained for them- selves a considerable portion of Rossendale. Various explanations of the name Irwell have been given. Ir Gaeil, or the Western Torrent, has been suggested by Whitaker, the historian of Manchester ; Ere well, or Spring in the Hoar (frost), by Whitaker, the antiquary of Whal- ley ; while Mr. Newbigging, in his ; History of Rossendale,’ considers it to be derived from Eire, one of the old Celtic deities. Whatever be its origin, the Irwell is one of the most remarkable streams in Great Britain, from the great value of its waters for manufacturing pur- poses, and the enormous trade which has been attracted to its banks in its comparatively short course. At the top of the hill the road turns, leaving on rt. Thieveley Pike , 1474 ft., one of the highest of the Rossendale hills. From the summit, on a clear day, the view is very fine, extending over Musbury and Holcombe hills and Coupe Law ; E, over Black Hambledon and Blackstone Edge ; to the N. and N.W. over Pendle Hill, Ingle- borough and Penyglient. Towards the Lancashire plain the spectator beholds “ a succession of swelling moorlands succeeding each other until lost on the far horizon, pre- serving throughout a striking gene- ral uniformity of elevation, and presenting the appearance of an extensive undulating table-land. Were he further to extend his re- searches and cross over this large expanse of elevated moorland, he would find that it is intersected by numerous deep, narrow, tortuous channels running in various direc- tions, and cut into the hard grit rocks below, through which flows the water collected on the uplands, and to whose eroding action, com- bined with other subaerial agencies, they evidently owe their exist- ence.” — Aitken. Thieveley Pike was formerly one of the old beacon sta- tions, and still shows traces of the circular bed of stones in which the beacon-fire was lighted. Further on, at the foot of Dirpley ( = Deer- play) Hill, a road from Newchurch falls in. A very charming “ dough ” or wooded dingle opens into the valley of the Calder, and, passing Towneley Hall (Col. Towneley), the traveller reaches, 7 m., Burnley (Rte. 8). From Bacup the traveller may also take the Sharneyford road to Todmorden, 5 m., passing Tooter Hill to the rt., and going by a gradual ascent a distance of 1^ m. to the ridge of the hill, where stands the highest cotton-mill in England. This ridge has been described by “Tim Bobbin” as the “riggin o’ tlT world.” Thence, going down the wooded dough, Todmorden is reached, at a further distance of 3J m. The scenery from Sharney- ford to Todmorden is of the most romantic and beautiful description. 58 Boute 7 . — Manchester to Clitheroe. EOUTE 7. MANCHESTER TO CLITHEROE, BY BOLTON, BLACKBURN, AND WHALLEY. From Manchester to Bolton, the traveller proceeds by the Lancashire and Yorkshire Ely., the Bury line branching off to the rt. at 4J m. Clifton Junc. (see Ete. 5), from which point the rly. runs N.W., following the valley of the Irwell as far as Farnworth. m. Stoneclough Stat. On the op- posite side of the river (on rt.) is the village of Ringley , forming part of the township of Pilkington. There are handsome new churches both at Eingley and Prestolee, a little higher up. The latter contains some ex- cellent stained glass, and it is worth notice that the W. window, which cost 200Z., was contributed by the operatives of the cotton-mills be- longing to the Crompton family, who were mainly instrumental in building the ch. 8J m. Halshaw Moor Stat. On 1. is the populous township of Farn- worth , the inhabitants of which are principally employed in the adja- cent collieries, cotton-mills, paper- making and chemical works. The little river Tonge, with its tributary streams, the Croal and Bradshaw, here fall into the Irwell, the latter river making an abrupt turn as it flows N.E. from Eadclifle and Bury. Overlooking it is Birch House (W. B. Whittam, Esq.) built in the reign of Charles I. It was originally the seat of the Eishtons, from whom it came into the hands of the Dornings and, subsequently, the Easbothams, a member of which family, Mr. Doming Easbotham, was a well- known Lancashire antiquary and man of literary attainments, and high sheriff of the county in 1769. Farnworth Old Hall , a half tim- bered house of the early part of the 16th centy., and the residence of a branch of the Hulton family in Charles II.'s reign, is now a work- man’s cottage. Farnworth has un- dergone great improvement and extension within the last few years, and is now provided with a hand- some public park. This township claims to have had born within it, in 1544, Dr. Ban- croft, Archbishop of Canterbury, and one of the Lords of the Privy Council to James I., who obtained his promotion to a canonry of Can- terbury as a reward for a learned sermon against the Puritans. His appointment, says Strype, “ which met with considerable opposition, was owing in a great measure to the activity and exertions of the Arch- bishop and the Lord Treasurer. Some, indeed, had represented him as inclined to popery, but his high character and deserts were properly set forth by his Grace’s orders, and sent to court. It was stated that his conversation had been without blame in the world, having never been complained of, detected, or, for aught he knew, suspected of any extraordinary enormity. He had been a preacher against popery above 24 years, and was certainly no papist.” It was to Archbishop Bancroft that Lambeth Palace is indebted for the famous library, which he founded and bequeathed to his successors. A recent investi- gation claims Farnworth, near Pres- cot, as the real place of his nativity. In the peat of Kersley Moss , a little to the S., bog oak has been found, the relics of the ancient forest that covered it. 9 m. Moses ’ Gate Stat. Route 7- 10J m. Bolton", a large and im- I portant manufacturing town, inter- sected by the Lancashire and York- shire Railway system, whose lines pass through it from Manchester to Chorley, Preston, and the North; to Wigan and Liverpool; to Bury, Rochdale, and Yorkshire; and also to Darwen, Blackburn, Whalley, and Clitheroe. Bolton is also con- nected with the London and North- Western system by a branch line from Kenyon; and a new line to Manchester by Eccles (see Rte. 9) was opened by the L. and N.W. Co. in 1875. There is also a branch rly. (1J m.) to Astley Bridge, a populous suburb between which and the town there are half-hourly om- nibuses. Bolton ( Inns : Swan, Victoria, and Lever’s Arms) is one of the earliest homes, and has long been one of the principal seats, of the cotton indus- try, the local conditions for which are peculiarly favourable. Though a town of considerable antiquity, for as early as the 12th cent, it was noted for its woollen trade and in 1256 it was raised to the rank of a market town by charter of Henry III., it is mainly to the inventions of Arkwright and Crompton that it is indebted for its great extension and its present prosperity. Blome described it as a “fair well-built ‘town, with broad streets,” in the 17th centy. ; but this was ere the advent of cotton-mills, and there can be no doubt that at a later period, as factories and foundries began to multiply, it lost much of this prepossessing appearance. Within the last quarter of a century great and extensive improvements have been carried out; new and wide streets have been formed ; the character of its street architecture has been greatly improved; and some of its public buildings — nota- bly its Town Hall and its Market' Hall — will bear comparison with -Bolton. 59 similar edifices in any other part of the country. Surrounded as it was in the re- mote past by dreary aud inhospit- able moors, we have but little light as to the earlier history of the town. Etymologists are by no means agreed as to the derivation of its name ; but we may accept Bolton as from Both el- ton, i.e. Boil , an abode or dwelling, and tun , a town. There can be no doubt that the town, which in its earlier history was variously spoken of as Bodelton, Bothelton, Bowlton, Boitune, and Bolton-super- Moras, then as Bolton- 1 e-Moor, and now simply according to its municipal charter as Bolton without the affix which hitherto was thought requisite to distinguish it from Bolton-le-Sands and other places, has a much higher antiquity than the era of the Norman Con- quest. Not till the advent of the Norman Conquest, however, do we come fairly within the historic period; from that time we have frequent references to the manor of Bolton, end we have evidence that one of these feudal lords dwelt at the manor-house in Little Bolton,, on the banks of the Croal. The manor of Bolton was given by Wil- liam the Conqueror, in the year 1067, to his cousin Roger de Poictou, whom he at the same time advanced to the dignity and title of Earl of Lancaster. Bolton, like most of the manufac- turing towns, has progressed with extraordinary rapidity since the commencement of the factory system, for whereas the population of Great aud Little Bolton in 1801 was only 17,416, the present population of the borough (1879) is estimated at 105,000 ; the population of the Bolton Poor-law Union in 1871 being 158,402. In the battle of Flodden Field, the fame of the Bolton men, who fought under Sir Edward Stanley, is celebrated in language which con- 60 Route 7. — Bolton . veys a strong impression of their cou- rage and prowess : « W th fellowes fearce and fresh for feight W ch Halton feilds did turne in foores W th lustie ladds lira and light From Blackborne and Bolton in ye Moores.” Baines. The most eventful portion of the his- tory of Bolton happened during the Civil Wars, when it was garrisoned for the Parliament, and attacked by the Earl of Derby’s forces from Wigan, who endeavoured to carry it by assault. After great carnage the enemy was beaten off, and the Gover- nor reinforced from Manchester. But the attack was renewed on the 28th of May, 1644, by Prince Rupert, at the head of 10,000 men, and the Earl of Derby, who had joined him from the Isle of Man. The garrison consisted of 3000 men, under Colonel Rigby. At first the issue was doubt- ful, but the Earl, at the head of 200 picked men, got up to the walls while the cavalry, it is said, were treacherously admitted by a towns- man. The slaughter of the towns- people was terrible, and it was alleged that 4 ministers of religion were put to the sword ; and that an officer, named Captain Booth, was killed, after quarter had been asked for and granted. Subsequent in- quiry, however, seems to have proved that the ministers escaped with their lives. In the battle of Worcester, which was so disastrous to the forces and hopes of Charles II., the Earl of Derby was taken, and sent down to be executed at Bolton, as a sort of retributive punishment for the ex- cesses of which he was accused at the siege 7 years previously. On the 15th October, 1651, as already stated, he was beheaded opposite the Man and Scythe Inn, Church Gate. Although the history of Bolton's manufacturing prosperity has cul- minated since the beginning of the present centy., it was always remark- able for a pre-eminence in trade. As early as the reign of Richard I., an aulnager, or measurer by the ell, was appointed to measure and mark with the king’s seal all w r oollen cloths for sale ; and, in the reign of Edward III., a number of Flemish clothiers settled here, being promised, as old Fuller quaintly puts it, “ that their beds would be good and their bed- fellows better, seeing that the richest yeomen in England would not dis- dain to marry their daughters to them.” Under Henry VIII. trade flourished, and Leland speaks thus : — “ Bolton - upon - Moore Market stondith most by cottons and course yorne. Divers villages in the Moores about Bolton do make cottons.” These cottons, however, were in reality woollens, the cotton trade not being established until 1641, when Bolton is mentioned as a celebrated place for the manufacture of “fustians, vermillions, and dimities,” in the making and sale of which Hum- phry Chetham, the founder of the Chetham Hospital, in Manchester, was actively engaged. Mr. Ras- botham, the antiquary, who lived at Birch House (p. 58), writes that “there is a staple here for fus- tians of divers sorts, especially those called Augsburg and Milan fustians, which are brought into its markets and fairs from all parts of the country, and sold to the country- men for clothes, and to the gentry for lining and other uses.” Cotton, velvet was fiist made here by Jere - miah Clarke in 1756. Bolton can also boast of being the place where Arkwright , who was a barber in Church Gate, in 1768, perfected his inventions in spinning. He did not, however, carry them out here, owing to the popular opposition in Lan- cashire to everything in the shape of machinery, but retired to found works and a fortune in Derbyshire. Seven years afterwards (in 1775), Samuel Crompton , also a resident in the parish, and a native of Bolton, brought out his “Mule,” which created a thorough revolution in the 61 Route 7 . — Bolton spinning- trade. The town now con- tains about 150 factories, employ- ing, it is estimated, 25,000 hands, and producing shirtings, quiltings, cambrics, muslins, counterpanes, &c. Bleaching is largely carried on, it being estimated that 6 millions of pieces of cloth are annually bleached here. “ The factories or spinning- mills contain from 20 to 100,000 spindles each, and those of recent erection are really handsome build- ings. There are about 3 millions of spindles in the borough. A mule — the machine upon which the cotton is spun— the invention of Samuel Crompton, contains from 500 to 1000 spindles, and a pair of these is ma- naged by a spinner and 3 piecers. The tall chimneys belonging to the factories give the town a very pecu- liar appearance to a stranger. The by-laws of the borough require them to be at least 40 yards high, and some are more than double that height, one, “the big chimney,” being in fact 122J yds. The yarns spun in Bolton are generally very fine. As low as 10’s are spun in one or two cases, but the “Bolton counts” are 60s and upwards : and as high as 200's are spun, the mule being capable of spinning a pound of cotton to the enormous length of 950 miles. In addition to the cotton factories, there are many extensive machine works — such as those of Hick, Hargreaves & Co., and Mus- grave & Son, for steam-engines ; Dobson & Barlow, for cotton ma- chinery, &c. ; besides brass foundries, iron works, steel works, chemical works, collieries, &c. Bolton has always had rather a pronounced character for the rough- ness of its inhabitants; and it is a common saying in Lancashire “ to be as rough as a Bolton chap,” in contradistinction to a Manchester “ man ” and a Liverpool “ gentle- man.” The Post . Office is in Bradshaw- gate, fronting Nelson-square. : Public Buildings , The old Parish Ch. of St. Peter had fallen into such decay, from the perishable nature of its stone, that it was pulled down, and a new one opened in 1871, from designs of Mr, Paley, of Lancaster, the entire cost, over 40,000£., being borne by Peter Ormrod, Esq., a local cotton-spin- ner and banker. It is a handsome building, consisting of nave, tran- septs, chancel with aisles, organ chapel, and a western tower 150 ft. high. The chancel contains stained- glass windows which belonged to the old ch. The registers commence in 1587, and have an entry of the burial of 78 soldiers, who fell in the attack by Prince Rupert. Bolton contains 15 other chs., but they are all more or less modern, and do not possess any features of interest, except All Saints and St. George's, which have some excellent stained glass. St. Paul’s, Deansgate, and St. Matthew’s are also good specimens of eccle- siastical architecture. The ch. of St. Stephens was the first ch. in Eng- land built of terracotta, and has a very graceful spire, copied from that of Freiburg. The Town Hall , in the Town-Hall square, is a fine new building, with a portico, surmounted by a tower 220 ft. in height. It was opened by the Prince of Wales in 1873, and cost 170, 000Z. The Market Hall , built in 1855, at a cost of 50,000Z., is very ex- tensive, and covers an area of 7010 square yards ? There is also a public Library and Museum, con- taining about 40,000 volumes. Ad- joining the parish ch. is the Church Institution , a mediaeval building, in which a middle-class school, a school of art, and evening classes are held. The Grammar School was founded by Robert Lever, in 1641, and is noticeable from having amongst its former masters Ainsworth , the author of the Latin Dictionary, and 62 Boute 7 . — Bolton : Smithills Hall. Lempriere , of the Classical Diction- ary. In Nelson-square are the Infir - mary and a statue of Crompton, the inventor of the “ Mule.” A new Infirmary is about to be erected on land adjoining the public park. Bolton possesses a handsome park of 60 acres, between Chorley New Road and Spa-lane, in which is a series of lakes, artificially formed out of a “ dough.” There is another of 20 acres, on the E. of the town, called the Bradford Park. A noticeable feature is the public playground of 9 acres, known as the Heywood Recreation Ground, a most valuable institution in crowded towns, which, it is to be regretted, is not more common. In another part of the town is the Darbishire Recreation Ground ; and in the Public Park is a Museum of Natural History, the late Dr. Chadwick having left 5000Z. for that purpose. The Chadwick Orphanage, the gift of Dr. and Mrs. Chadwick, is a very fine institution. A statue of the Doctor, raised by public sub- scription, stands in the Town-Hall square. Among the celebrities of Bolton parish were Bichard Bothwell , the exorcist (1563), who declared that he was always having contests with devils. “ It was the boast of one of his descendants, a peruke-maker in Bolton, in the latter part of the 18th centy., ‘ I am a real Rothwell, none of your Leeredge Rothwells, but a descendant of him that beat the devil/ ” The Bev. Oliver Hey- ivood was a celebrated Noncon- formist divine, in 1629. Bicliard Arkwright (afterwards Sir Richard) was the inventor of the “ Water frame ; ” and Samuel Crompton , of the “ Mule/’ Tannahill , the Scotch poet and writer of ‘ Jessie, the Flower of Dunblane/ worked in Bolton as a weaver of cambric muslins. The neighbourhood of Bolton is naturally pretty, but is considerably spoilt by factory appliances and collieries. Adjoining the town, on the N., is Little Bolton , the Hall of which, an old brick-and-plaster building, in 1600 the seat of Richard Bolton, was a few years ago restored by its owner, S. Blair, Esq. Continue as far as the turnpike, and take the road to the 1. On the brow of the opposite hill, 2J m. from Bolton, is Smithills Hall (R. H. Ainsworth, Esq.), a very interesting old house, originally belonging to the Ead- cliffes. The last Sir Ralph Radcliffe had a daughter Joan, who by mar- riage brought the estate into the family of Barton, in the reign of Henry YI. It was afterwards held by the Byrons, and passed by sale to the great-uncle of the present owner. The Hall is supposed to have been built in the reign of Henry VII., by Andrew Barton, from the fact of having the initials A. B. and the rebus of a tun crowned by a bar, a humorous device common in those days. It is one of the quaintest old houses in the county, consisting of a courtyard and side wings, the E. one containing the chapel. The walls of the courtyard are painted with white and black trefoils. A singular wooden window of the 14th centy. is supposed to have been copied from Baggiley in Cheshire. It has an ogee head, and is considered by anti- quaries to be very remarkable. The interior of Smithills is decorated with carved oak wainscoting and fittings, and the hall is lighted by stained-glass windows. In a passage near the dining-room is shown the imprint of a foot, concerning which the following story is current. In 1555, George Marsh, who re- sided in the adjoining parish of Dean, was apprehended and brought before Justice Barton, for holding religious opinions which were very obnoxious to the persecuting go- vernment of Queen Mary. At the 63 Route 7 . — Sharpies — Bromley Cross. examination, his friends besought him to conform to the religion of his superiors, but he remained steadfast, and, stamping his foot, cried, “ If my cause be just, let the prayer of thine unworthy servant be heard.” It is said that the print of the foot ever afterwards remained indelibly fixed in the stone, which, according to popular opinion, was endowed with supernatural qua- lities. The story is told at length in the 4 Lancashire Traditions,’ by Roby, who asserts that the Sir Roger Barton, before whom Marsh was taken, was descended from Sir Andrew Barton, the famous Puri- tan captain, knighted by James III. of Scotland. Marsh was after- wards examined before the Earl of Derby, at Lathom, and finally burnt as a heretic at Chester, on April 24, 1555. A curious tenure exists by which Smithills is held from the adjoin- ing Manor of Sharpies, viz. the presentation of a pair of gilt spurs annually, and the unlimited use of the Smithills cellars whenever the Lord of Sharpies came that way. Fortunately for the owner of Smit- hills, this latter portion of the tenure has lapsed into desuetude. The walk to Smithills may be ex- tended further N. to Eivington Pike (Ete. 10), or a return made to Bolton through Halim ell, mentioned in the reign of Edward I. as being the scene of a homicide, whereby Roger FitzJohn of Halliwell killed Richard Smalltrot. Moss Bank (W. Hargreaves, Esq.), Halliwell Hall and Halliwell Lodge (James Orm- rod, Esq.). To the E. of Smithills, and 2 m. from Bolton on the road to Darwen, is Sharpies, where are situated the reservoirs that supply Bolton with water. On the opposite bank of the Tonge, which separates Sharpies from Bradshaw, is Hall-i’-ih'-Wood (the property of La Gendre Starkie, Esq.), a fine old half timbered, mullioned house, on the porch of which is the date 1648. Here re- sided Samuel Crompton, and it was in the attics of this old house that he concealed his darling invention of the mule, during the machine-break- ing riots of Bolton. Bail from Bolton to Manchester, 11m.; Bury, 6; Wigan, 11; Hor- wich, 6.^ ; Leigh, 8; Darwen, ; Blackburn, 14 J. The Rivington Reservoirs, m. from Bolton, are well worth visiting ; nearest stations Horwich and Ad- lington. The rly. to Blackburn runs due N. through a somewhat bleak and upland country, which, nevertheless, has many beautiful points about it, owing to the deep ravines in which the rivulets have cut their way through the coal-measures and sand- stones. The line on leaving Bolton takes the high ground between the Bradshaw Brook and the river Tonge. 13 m. Oaks Stat. On 1. is Hall- i’-th’-Wood, and The Oaks (H. Ash- worth, Esq.). 13 J m. Bromley Cross Stat. On rt. is Turton Tower (J. Kay, Esq.), the former residence of the Orrels, de- signated by Camden as “ an illus- trious family,” by whom it was sold to Humphry Chetham. It is a pic- turesque, irregular old building, originally intended for defence, with a tower of 4 stories, and an em- battled parapet. The drawing-room contains some good oak panelling. There is also a remarkable and mas- sive oak bedstead, covered with carving, and called “ Queen Anne’s Bedstead.” It is some hundreds of years old, and is said to have been used by Oliver Cromwell. Some time ago the enormous sum of 6000Z. was offered and refused for this venerable piece of furniture. The hills in the neighbourhood begin to 64 Route 7 . — Entwistle — BlacJcburn. attain greater height, and there is an exceedingly fine view from Chet- hams Close , just above and to the I. of Turton. On the rt. the Hol- combe Hills and the Peel Tower are very conspicuous. (Rte. 5.) A viaduct crosses the Bradshaw Brook at a considerable height as it emerges from a large reservoir constructed to utilise the hill- streams for the various mills on its banks. 16 J m. Entwistle Stat. At Entwistle Hall, now a farmhouse, was born the Sir Bertine Entwistle, at the beginning of the 15th centy., whose memory is perpetuated by a slab in Rochdale ch. He was one of the heroes of Agincourt, and a loyal and brave follower of Henry Y. and VI., by whose side he fell, fighting at the battle of St. Albans, in 1455. From this family are descended the Entwistles of Foxholes. At the other end of the succeed- ing tunnel is the busy town of 20 m. Over Darwen , containing a population that has grown from 3500 at the beginning of the present centy. to about 26,000. {Inn: Angel.) It contains the usual manufacturing appliances of cotton-mills, print and bleach works, &c., while the neigh- bourhood abounds in coal-pits and stone quarries. Some of the factories are of large size, and in particular the India mills of Eccles, Shorrock & Co., which are not only very extensive but of a higher class of architecture than mill-owners generally encou- rage. It covers an area of 31,000 square feet, and contains 160,000 spindles. In these mills, before they were fitted up, an exhibition for fine arts and machinery was held in 1868. The following are amongst the annual productive in- dustries of Darwen : — Paper* stain- ing, about 8 million dozen yards ; paper- making, 6000 tons; calico* spinning, 6 million lbs. of yarn ; cotton-spinning, 28,550,000 lbs. Dar- wen contains four chs. of the Esta- blishment, and several large Dis- senting places of worship. The town itself is irregularly built, and not attractive, but the fells around it are very lofty and striking, and offer many a sequestered nook and wide view. 22 m. Lower Darwen Stat. This is a manufacturing village, contain- ing extensive cotton and paper-mills ; indeed the whole of the valley of the Darwen river from its source to below Blackburn, is dotted with mills and works. 24J m. Blackburn Junc., from whence radiate lines to Clitheroe, Pa diham, Accrington, Wigan, Burn- ley, and Preston. Blackburn ( Hotel : Old Bull, com- fortable) is one of the most progres- sive and important of the Lancashire cotton towns, its population having increased within the last 100 years from 5000 to 96,000. Few of the manufacturing towns are more pret- tily situated, it being environed by wooded hills, the highest of which, Billinge Hill, is 900 ft. high, and gives a pleasant aspect of cultivation and shelter. It lies at the entrance, as it were, of the somewhat rugged country that extends eastward to Pendle Hill and the Pennine Chain, and, in the 8th centy., is recorded as being a district almost inacces- sible. From Roger de Poictou, the Norm, owner, the manor passed into the possession of Henry de Black- burne, and was ultimately divided ; the one portion going to the Hulton family, the other to John de Lacey, who gave it up to the Monks of Stanlaw Abbey, in Cheshire. When they removed to Whalley, Black- burn of course fell to the share of that establishment, and was held by the Abbots of Whalley until the Dissolution. Archbishop Cranmer Boute 7 . — Blackburn. 65 was the first rector (and patron) of the living, after the Reforma- tion. Like Bury and Bolton, Black- burn has contributed its full share to the improvements and prospe- rity of the cotton trade. Even in the 17th centy. it was famous for ' its “ checks,” which consisted of linen warp and cotton weft, with dyed threads ; but the greatest invention was in 1764, when John Hargreaves, a Blackburn weaver, conceived the idea of the spinning jenny. “ Several spindles, at first 8 and afterwards 80, being made to whirl by one fly-wheel, while a movable frame, representing so many fingers and thumbs as there were threads, alternately receded from the spindles during the exten- sion of the threads and approached them in its winding on. The spindle in the spinster’s wheel was always horizontal, but those in Hargreaves 5 machine were upright, or very slightly inclined from the perpen- dicular — a position, in fact, essen- tial to its due operation, and one which was suggested to him, it is said, by observing a common wheel continue to revolve after it was accidentally thrown down on the floor with its spindle turned up.” — Ure. For a time Hargreaves concealed the result of his ingenuity, but it at length becoming known, the mob broke into his house and destroyed it. Finding that even his life was not safe, he retired to Nottingham, where he erected a small mill and stocked it with spinning-frames. As is usually the case with inventors, he found that the large capitalist traders pirated his patent as soon as the advantages of it were known, and Hargreaves never reaped much benefit from it, although he did not die in poverty. In addition to Hargreaves’ discovery, Blackburn has produced a large number of mechanicians, whose improvements have greatly developed the perfeet- [ Lancashire.'] ing of the power-loom. Blackburn is celebrated for its calicoes, and the Indian market is chiefly sup- plied from here, about 55,000 power- looms being at work in the mills. The establishment of the factory system was mainly owing to Mr. Peel, grandfather of the Prime Minister, who resided here ; his son, the first baronet, having been born in 1750, at a house in Fish-lane. Besides the various cotton -mills which give employment to the town, there are large machine works and engine factories. Of the former, the most noteworthy are those of the Messrs. Yates, John Dugdale and Sons, Dickinson and Sons, Clayton and Goodfellows, and Willan and Mills. The parish church is modern, and succeeded, in 1824, a building, dating from the reign of Henry VIII., of w hich the tower, venerable and time- worn, was in 1870 ruthlessly de- molished, in order that it might be turned into money. According to the ‘ Status de Blagborneshire,’ the firstch. was rebuilt at Blackburn, soon after the introduction of Christianity into this country by St. Augustine. The present ch. is very handsome, consisting of a nave, aisles, chancel, and W. tower, and contains a very fine E. window of stained glass of ten compartments, each represent- ing one of the Apostles. It is said to have been brought from Cologne by a late rector, Dr. Whitaker. The tracery of the windows generally is very rich, one having been copied from Roslyn Chapel, in Scotland; and there is some old stained glass in the clerestory windows. The ch. was damaged by fire in 1831, but restored by Rickman. The parish ch. belonged to the abbots of Whal- ley,but, after the execution of Abbot Pa slew, in 1537, the rectory was given to Cranmer, Archbishop of Canterbury. The other churches are modern — St. Peter's possesses a p 66 Route 7 . — Blackburn — Samlesbury. stained-glass window and an altar- piece, a copy of Leonardo da Vinci’s “ Last Supper.” The municipal buildings of Black- burn are on a handsome scale, par- ticularly the Toivn Hall , a fine Italian building, which covers an area of 2600 square yards, and has cost 40,000?. Opposite it is the Ex- change. , a Gothic building with an octagonal tower, and containing a large hall 140 ft. long. Hard by is the Free Public Library , a hand- some fabric in Domestic Gothic, enriched on its main fronts with groups of emblematic sculpture. It contains about 24,000 volumes, and an interesting museum. The Market Hall has a lofty campanile clock-tower, with tele- graphic time-ball. The Infirmary and the Reform Club are both fine buildings, and contribute much to the appearance of the town. The Grammar School was founded by Queen Elizabeth, who directed that “ it should be free to all the world.” Amongst the alumni of this school were Robert Bolton, an eminent Puri- tan divine ; and a Catholic named Anderton, so celebrated for his elo- quence that he was called “ the G olden-mouthed.” Outside the town is the Corpora- tion Park , a very prettily planted piece of ground of 50 acres on the side of Revidge Hill, from whence the views towards Billinge, Witton, and Darwen are exceedingly pic- turesque. The villas of many of the gentry surround the park. Ad- joining it is the Alexandra Meadow , for the purposes of recreation and Volunteer pursuits. 1J m. W. of Blackburn is Witton Hall (Col. Fielden). The house is of Grecian order, and is placed in a charmingly wooded park, having for its background, on the N., Bil- linge Hill , 900 ft. Although this is no great height, the view in clear weather is very extensive, and in- cludes the North Welsh Hills, the Cumberland Fells, and the Isle of Man. Blackburn is well supplied with water from a reservoir at Fish Moor, which holds a supply of 360 million gallons. Further on towards Preston are Fenniscowles (Sir W. L. Feilden, Bart.) and Pleasington Hall (J. E. Butler Bowden, Esq.). (Rte. 8.) 4 m. on the upper Preston road is the old Hall of Samlesbury , ex- tended and partially rebuilt by Sir Thos. South worth in 1548, and re- stored by the late owner, J. Har- rison, Esq. It is a good specimen of the timber-and-plaster mansion. It is in the form of the letter L, the short arm being occupied by the ancient banqueting-hall, which has a fine timber roof. The minstrels’ gallery, with its richly carved screen and posts with grotesque figures, still remains. The end bay con- tained the chapel, which extended upwards to the top of the house, and is lighted by a large 3-light window, said to have been brought from Whalley. It contains the ori- ginal piscina. There are inscrip- tions testifying to the builder in the music gallery and over the fireplace in the dining-hall. Between Sam- lesbury and Blackburn, to the N., is the village of Mellor , close to which was a small Roman station, probably a castrum sestivum at- tached to Ribchester. Further in- formation respecting Blackburn and the neighbourhood may be found in the ‘History of Blackburn,’ recently brought out by Mr. W. Abram, editor of the Blackburn Times. Rail from Blackburn to Ac- crington, 5J m . ; Whalley, 7J m. ; Clitheroe, lOJm. ; Burnley, 11 J m. ; Darwen, 4 J m. ; Bolton, 14 m. ; Tur- ton, 11 m. ; Manchester, 24 £ m. ; Hoghton, 5 m. ; Preston, 11 m. 27 J m. Wiltshire Stat. (for Rib- chester). The little village, on the Boute 7 . — Bibchester. 67 site of the Roman city, is about 3 m. away down the valley of the Ribble. It is most prettily situated on the rt. bank of the river at its conflu- ence with the Dutton and Boyce’s Brook. Its name (the Castrum on the Ribble) at once betokens both its origin and antiquity, it being thought by some to be identical with the Roman station of Coccium, by others with Rhigodunum. Camden, who paid two visits here, says of it, The Rhibell turning short about, to the westward, gives its name to a village called at this day Ribble- chester, where so many signs of Roman antiquity, statues, coins, pillars, pedestals of pillars, chapi- ters, altars, marbles and inscrip- tions, are commonly dug up, that this hobbling rhyme of the inha- bitants does not seem to be alto- gether groundless : — “ ‘,It is written upon a wall in Rome Kibchester was as rich as any town in Christendom/ Moreover, the military ways meet here, the one plain by its high causeway from York, the other from the north through Bowland.” An altar was found here in 1603, dedi- cated to the “ Mother Goddesses,’’ another to Mars and Victory, to- gether with inscribed stones, hel- mets, and a bust of Minerva. In 1811 the foundations of a large build- ing, believed to be the temple of this goddess, were discovered, to- gether with several skeletons, Samian ware, &c. In 1833 a stone altar (inscribed) was dug up, which for many years stood at the vicarage, but has re- cently been sold. The ch. has nave, chancel, and aisles, with a chapel at the end of the south aisle called the Houghton Choir, which has an ornamental screen. In the N. aisle is the Dutton Choir, containing a tombstone with the cross and sword of an Hospitaller. In this chapel also is a curious old painted E. win- dow, representing the second coming of Christ. The pulpit has some interesting woodwork in compart- ments. m. N. of the village is the hamlet of Stidd , in the old chapel of which the Vicar of Ribchester performs service on the afternoon of the last Sunday in the month, Good Friday, and New Year’s Day. At Stidd was a preceptory of the Knights Hospitallers, of the age of King John, of which the chapel is the present representative. It has a Trans.-Norm. arch, and some small Norman windows. The font is octa- gonal. Under a decorated stone lie one of the lords of Salesbury and his lady, and in front of the altar is buried the Roman Catholic bishop of Armoricum, 1725. To the S. of Ribchester Manor, on the other bank of the Ribble, is the old house of Osbaldeston, now a farmhouse, standing within a moat. It was rebuilt by Sir Edward Osbal- destone about the reign of James I. Salesbury Hall is an interesting fragment of the old mansion of the Talbots, having a stone basement with timber superstructure. An inscribed stone, inserted in a wall of this house when detached, was found by Whitaker to have an ex- quisite Roman basso-relievo. Lovely Hall , 1J m. S. of Salesbury, has some old furniture and stained glass. At Wiltshire Stat. the rly. emerges into the valley — “ Where Ribble from ber springs, An alien known to be, and from the moun- taines rude Of Yorkshire getting strength, here boldly dares intrude.” A beautiful and extensive view is gained looking northwards to Clitheroe and Pendle Hill, and west- wards over the woods of Longridge Fell. “ These mountaines make me proud, to gaze on me they stand, So Longridge once arrived on the Lancas- trian land Salutes me.” Drayton. F 2 63 Boute 7 . — Whalley. 30 m. Langho Stat. 1J m. off is an episcopal chapel, built from the ma- terials of Whalley Abbey. A new ch. is being built on a fresh site, and the ancient building will be preserved as a mortuary chapel. A lofty viaduct carries the rly. across the C alder to 32 m. Whalley Stat . Stonyhurst Roman Catholic College is seen in the distance on the 1., and the remains of the abbey on the rt. Whalley (Inns: Swan, Whalley Arms) is a quiet, ancient little town on the rt. bank of the Calder, which flows through a beautiful valley from Burnley and Padiham to join the Ribble near Mitton. The name of Whalley is believed to be of Saxon origin, and to mean the “ field of wells/’ probably from the fact that it lies at the foot of the Pendle range which drains into the valley beneath. The old parish of Whalley is of enormous extent, embracing 161 square miles, or nearly one-ninth part of all Lanca- . shire. It contains one borough and 49 townships, of which 4 are market towns, and it is also the mother of 7 parish churches. The founder of the once splendid monastic establish- ment here was Henry de Lacy, Earl of Lincoln, who bestowed it on the Cistercian monks of Stanlaw in Cheshire. 44 They immediately re- moved to Whalley, much to the annoyance of the neighbouring Abbey of Sawley, whose brethren complained that the new-comers raised the markets by the increased demand for provisions. But the latter took root notwithstanding, and would seem to have been a joyous, charitable brotherhood, well- disposed to make the most of life, but within reasonable limits, and no less inclined to assist the poor and needy. Amongst other items in the annual computations of their expenses, we find a large sum paid to the wandering 4 minstrallis,’ though in some monasteries of a stricter rule it was an established law that no minstrels should enter their gates. As a set-off to this, we learn from another item that they regularly employed and paid a shoemaker to make shoes for the poor, the leather being supplied from their own tanneries.” A Hermitage was founded by Henry, Duke of Lan- caster, for the reception of women who took the vows, but eventually a good deal of license took place in this branch of the establishment, and the conduct of one Isole de Heton at last became so outrageous that it afforded ground for peti- tioning the King, Henry VI. to dis- solve it because “ that divers of the wymen that have been attend- yng to the recluses afortym have byn misgovernyd and gotten with chyld within the seyd plase halowyd, to the grete displeasance, hurt, and disclander of the abba ye. v The story of this fair sinner is elaborated in Ainsworth’s 4 Lancashire Witches.’ The Abbot himself kept a good table, as may be gathered from the accounts, called the Coucher Book or Chartulary, which is still in existence. For nearly 250 years Whalley Abbey flourished, being one of the richest in the North of England, and its abbots amongst the most powerful. But its fall took place in 1537 at the collapse of the monk- ish revolt against Henry VIII., known as the Pilgrimage of Grace : by which its leaders endeavoured to preserve the greater monasteries from the hands of the King's Commis- sioners. The abbots of Jervaulx, Fountains, Sawley, and Whalley, were all concerned in the rebellion ; the latter, Abbot Paslew, the 17th and last Abbot, having raised a large body of men, and himself taken the field under the title of the Earl of Poverty. But the affair ended almost as soon as it had begun, and John Paslew expiated 69 Route 7 . — Whalley Abbey . Ills rebellion by being hung on the 12th of March 1537. The Cis- tercian establishment of Whalley was broken up, and the last sur- viving monk, Thomas Holden, is found as a Protestant minister at Haslingden, 37 years after the Dis- solution. Whalley Abbey and the estate attached were put in trust with John Braddyl, who made such good use of his opportunities that in 1 4 years he was enabled to buy the manor, in conjunction with Richard Assheton, for 2132 1. They made a partition of the property, Assheton keeping the buildings and Braddyl the demesnes. During the Civil Wars the abbey was held for a time by the Royalists under the Earl of Derby. Col. Richard Shuttleworth, however, attacked him with his Parliamentarians, when the Earl was defeated, and retreated to Pres- ton. The Abbey fabrics have been re- duced by constant demolitions to comparative insignificance as ruins. From excavations made in 1798, it seems that the abbey buildings consisted of three quadrangles, the most westerly of which was the cloister formed by the nave of the conventual ch. on the N., the chapter-house on the E., the dormi- tory on the W., and the refectory and kitchen on the S. The cloister was of wood, but the corbels that supported it still remain; in the space within, the monks were buried, and against the wall on the S. is an arch which contained the lava- tory. To the E. of this quadrangle was another, formed partly by the choir of the ch. on the N. and by the abbot’s residence on the E. At the S. end of the latter is an ivy- covered ruin, which appears to have been the abbot’s private chapel. There is but little detail left to attest the richness and grandeur of the abbey — scarcely more, indeed, than to show the ground-plan of it. The conventual church consisted of a nave, presbytery with side aisles, N. and S. transept, and 2 chapels on each side the choir. In the excava- tions carried on by Dr. Whitaker, a beautiful fragmentary pavement was discovered, together with skeletons, evidently those of the abbots, who were buried near the high -altar. The De Lacys, too, were buried here, brought hither from Stanlaw. The original enclosure was more than 36 acres in extent, and there is still left near the railway a beautiful gateway with a groined roof, which was the N.W. entrance to it. The present main entrance to the abbey grounds is by the N.E. gateway, a stately structure of the early Tudor period. At the back of the abbot’s residence, on the river bank, was the abbey mill. To the E. of the abbey is the very interesting church , originally called the “ White Church under the Legh,” which in its early foundation “ is nearly coeval with the introduction of Christianity into the North of England.” Here it was that Paulinus, the mis- sionary sent by Gregory the Great, lifted up the standard of Chris- tianity in the 7 th centy. — an event the supposed memorials of which are still to be seen in the chiv:chyard in the shape of a curious Anglo-Saxon cross, with its mutilated shaft and head. There are two other singular crosses of very early date. The ancient rectors of the ch., in conse- quence of the extensive jurisdiction given them by the Bishops of Lich- field, called themselves Deans ; and the Deanery of Whalley was held by hereditary succession till the Lateran Council in 1215, when it was dis- solved. The ch., which is of a mix- ture of Dec. and Perp. styles, con- sists of nave, aisles, chancel, and west tower, which seems to be the oldest part of the building, “ and to be coeval with Peter de Cestria, the first and only rector, probably a natural son of J ohn de Laci, and a 70 Route 7 . — Whatley Abbey . man of great ecclesiastical and poli- tical influence, who had in 1283 a grant of free warren in Whalley conferred upon him.” The ch. un- derwent its last restoration in 1868, when a new S. porch was added. In the interior the nave is sepa- rated from the aisles by four pointed arches, the columns of the N. aisle haying circular pillars, and of the S. octagonal. St. Mary’s Chapel, in the S. aisle, belongs to Whalley Abbey, and the Little Mitton Chapel, in the N. aisle, to that manor. Notice the beautiful openwork of the oak roof, the car- ving on the vicar's pew, the rood- screen, and particularly the carving of the stalls in the chancel, which are relics of the old conventual ch. Some of the representations are full of humour, and include an old woman beating her husband with a ladle, and a man shoeing a goose. One of the pews was canopied, and called “ St. Anton’s Cage.” The E. win- dow is filled with stained glass, with heraldic insignia and arms of the various families of the district, and in the S. aisle is an exceedingly handsome memorial window of 3 compartments to the late T. Brookes, Esq. The N. aisle has a curious dormer window projecting from the clerestory. There is a monumental efligy to the Bev. T. D. Whitaker, vicar of Whalley, a learned anti- quary and author of the ‘History of Whalley Abbey.’ Notice also a floor-stone marked B. 1671 W., and a brass of a knight (Balph Catteral) and his lady with 9 sons and 11 daughters. At the entrance to the Mitton Chapel is a stone marked with a floriated cross and chalice, and the words “ Jhu fili dei miserere mei.” This stone Whitaker believes to mark the burial-place of Abbot Paslew. The font is octagonal. Not the least interesting of the curiosities are the key and knocker of the south door of the chancel. The Grammar School was endowed by Edward VI. with 20 marks a year. Whitaker calls attention to the fact, that remains of Boman origin exist in Whalley. The S. boundary of the ch.-yard is a deep and distinct foss and agger, while there is a corresponding one on the N. side. There is a charming walk up Nab Side , which overhangs Whalley on the S. bank of the Calder, and a knoll near the foot of the Nab is said to be the spot where Abbot Paslew was hung. 1 m. N.W. is Wiswell Hall, the old abode of the Paslews, now a farmhouse. Upon the hill beyond Wiswell is marked in the Ordnance Map Ieppe Knave Grave. It is supposed by Mr. Whit- aker to refer to the execution of one Ieppe for theft, as in the old record it is mentioned — “ Ieppe ki fust decolle come laron.” The Bev. T. D. Whitaker, to whom reference has so often been made as the historian of the parish, was Vicar of Whalley between 1809 and 1813. His family estate is situated at Holme in Cli- viger, within the parish. He after- wards became Bector of Heysham and Vicar of Blackburn, where he died, leaving directions that a cer- tain larch- tree should be cut down, and his body placed within a section of the hollowed trunk. Another celebrity of local noto- riety was Dr. John Wolton (born at Wistwell near Whalley, in 1535, the son of John Wolton, yeoman, by his wife, Isabella Nowell, sister of Dean Alexander Nowell), Bishop of Exeter and Warden of the .Collegiate Ch. of Manchester (d. 1591). He was the author of many religious works, and, according to Hooker, “ univer- sally read in all good lettres.” The parish was formerly dis- turbed by reputed witches, especially Margaret Johnson, of Marsden, and Utley, a conjuror, who bewitched to death the son of Bafe Assheton, for which he was condemned and executed. Boute 7 . — Clerk Hill — Lancashire Witches . 71 [To Padiham, 5 m., it is a beautiful excursion, the road running over a richly wooded hill above the Calder, which is, however, but little seen. 1J m. 1. Clerk Hill, commands a splendid view. It was the property of the Crombrocks until 1699, when they sold it to the Whalleys for 73 51. The estates of the Whalleys were sold, a few years since, for 12,000Z. to a Mr. Long worth. On rt., over- looking the Calder, is Moreton Hall. The old house that preceded the present Elizabethan building was supposed to have been, m the 15th centy., the residence of the mortuary collector of the Abbey of Whalley. It is mentioned in the reign of Elizabeth as being granted to John Morton, citizen and haber- dasher of London. 2 m. Sabden Brook , a pretty stream. Bead Hall (E. Fort, Esq.) is a modern mansion built on the site of an older one which (temp. Elizabeth) was held and inhabited by the family of Alexander Nowell, Dean of St. Pauls, who, during part of his life, was exceedingly un- popular with her Majesty. 44 On one occasion lie was proposed as Provost of Eton, but the queen re- fused to have him placed so near her ; on another, Parker was com- pelled to erase his name from the list of clergymen selected to preach before her; on a third, she gave ‘Mr. Dean’ a terrible scolding, be- cause he had placed a prayer-book with pictorial illustrations before her in St. Paul’s, which illustrations she denounced as popish and idolatrous.” — Halley. Strype adds that the matter occasioned all the clergy in and about London, and the church- wardens of each parish, to search their churches and chapels, and to wash out of the walls all paintings which seemed to be Eomish. The Dean’s brother, Lawrence Nowell, became Dean of Lichfield (d. 1576). He was a great topographer, and the author of / Polychronicon,’ and several curious and interesting maps. Bishop Ileber, of Hodnet, Salop, was descended from this family. To the N. of Read Flail (about 3 m.) is Sabden ( Inn : Com mercial), an isolated little manu- facturing town with some cotton mills and dye- works. It is situated close under the southern slopes of Pendle Hill. The whole district is broken and wild, and a considerable amount of interest is attached to it, from its having been the ancient haunts of the Lancashire Witches , upon whose pretended supernatural powers and legal prosecution Mr. Flarrison Ainsworth has founded his interesting novel of that name. The witches, whose proceedings se troubled North Lancashire, were at their zenith in the reign of James 1., and were suppressed by the most severe edicts, many having been brought to trial and burnt at Lan- caster, Yarmouth, Bury St. Edmund's, and elsewhere. The following story is told in Whitaker’s 4 Whalley :’ — U A number of persons, inhabit- ants of Pendle Forest, were appre- hended in the year 1633, upon the evidence of Edmund Robinson, a boy about 1 1 years old, who deposed before two of his Majesty’s Justices at Padiham, that on All Saints’ Day he was getting 4 bulloes,’ when he saw two greyhounds, black and brown, come running over the field towards him. When they came nigh, they fawned on him, and he sup- posed they belonged to some of the neighbours. He expected presently that some one would follow ; but, seeing no one, he took them by a string, which they had tied to their collars, and thought he would hunt with them. Presently a hare sprang up near to him, and he cried 4 Loo, loo ! ’ but the dogs would not run. Whereupon he grew angry, and tied them to a bush, for the purpose of chastising them ; but, instead of the black greyhound, he now beheld a 72 Bouse 7 . — The Lancashire Witches — Padiham. woman, the wife of one Dickonson, a neighbour. The other was trans- formed into a little boy. At this sight he was much afraid, and would have fled, but the woman stayed him and offered him a piece of silver, like a shilling, if he would hold his peace ; but he refused the bribe. Whereupon she pulled out a bridle, and threw it over the little boy’s head, who was her familiar, and im- mediately he became a white horse. The witch then took the deponent before her, and away they galloped to a place called Malkin Tower, by tlie Hoarstones at Pendle. He then beheld many persons appear in like fashion, and a great feast was pre- pared, which he saw and was invited to partake, but he refused. Spying an opportunity, he stole away and ran towards home ; but some of the company pursued him until he came to a narrow place, called ‘ the Bog- gart Hole,’ where he met two horse- men; seeing which, his tormentors left off following him. He further said that, on a certain day, he saw a neighbour’s wife of the name of Loynd, sitting upon a cross-piece of wood within the chimney of his father’s dwelling-house. He called to her, saying, ‘ C me down, thou Loynd wife ! ’ and immediately she went up out of sight. Likewise upon the evening of All Saints’ before named, his father sent him to look up the kine, when, coming through a certain field, he met a boy who began to quarrel with him, and they fought until his face and ears were bloody. Looking down, he saw the boy had cloven feet, and away he ran. It was now nearly dark, but he descried at a distance a light like a lantern. Thinking this was car- ried by some of his friends, he made all haste towards it, and saw a woman standing on a bridge, whom he knew to be Loynd’s wife ; turn- ing from her, he again met with the boy, who gave him a heavy blow on the back, after which he escaped. On being asked the names of the women he saw at the feast, he men- tioned 17 persons, all of whom were committed to Lancaster for triai. In the end they were set at liberty, the boy Robinson having confessed that he was suborned to give evi- dence against them.” There are several old houses in the Sabden district, such as Pendleton Hall, Old Laund Hall , Sabden Hall , Whitehough , all farmhouses. Pougli Lee Hall was the abode of Mistress Alice Nutter, a celebrated Pendle witch, in the time of James I. The Wesleyan congregation here was founded by John Wesley himself, during a visit in the year 1752 to this wild neighbourhood. 4 m. 1. Huntroyde is a fine old house, occupying the site of a hunt- ing-lodge of John of Gaunt. It was rebuilt by Inigo Jones, and is situated in a spacious park remarkable for the size and beauty of the oaks, some of which date from the time of Elizabeth. Huntroyde is the seat of Le Gendre N. Starkie, Esq., whose ancestors ac- quired it in the 15th centy. by mar- riage with the family of Symond- stone , which resided at the old Hall of that name, on the rt. of the road. John de Symondstone granted the monks of Wlialley leave to dig stone here for building their abbey. A family of the Whitakers subsequently acquired, and still possess the estate. The road now descends to Padi- ham ( Inn : Starkie’s Arms), a town on the Calder, dependent on the cotton trade, and possessing little interest for the tourist. A newly opened loop line of the Lancashire and Yorkshire Rly. connects it with Burnley and Blackburn. The ch. was rebuilt in 1868, and consists of nave, side aisles, transepts, chancel, and aisles. Tuere are some handsome stained-glass windows, that of the E. being in memory of the late Mr. Starkie, of Huntroyde. The old font 73 Route 7 . — Gawthorpe and Mitton Halls . was given by Paslew, the last Abbot of Whalley. Near the town is Gawthorpe Hall , the seat of Sir U. Kaye-Shuttlc- worth, Bart., M.P., whose family has been in possession since the time of Richard II. The present house is of Elizabethan age, built by Lau- rence Shuttle worth, in 1605, and restored by Sir Charles Barry. The interior contains some fine carving and plaster work, and a gallery of family portraits, including that of Capt. William Shuttleworth, who was killed when fighting on the side of the Parliament. The Shuttle- worths were people of considerable importance at this time. One was Puritan member for Preston in the Long Parliament, and 2 of his grandsons were colonels in Lam- bert’s army. During the restoration a large number of gold coins were found under the panel of one of the rooms, and were supposed to have been hidden there when Charles Edward s army passed through Lan- cashire in 1715. — Burke. Over- looking Gawthorpe is the site of the manor-house of Ightenhill, said to have been occasionally a residence of John of Gaunt, and an ancient seat of the De Lacys. 1 m. to the N. is High Whitaker, “ formerly used as a Roman Cath. chapel, and con- jectured to have been the residence of Thomas Whitaker, who, being much persecuted, was accustomed to escape into a subterranean pas- sage, but was at length appre- hended, and, being brought to trial, was executed at Lancaster in 1616 for priesthood.” — Baines. Still higher up the valley are Pendle Hall , belonging to the Starkies, and White Lee, of the date 1593, where was born in 1617 Sir Jonas Moore, author of the ‘ Domes- tic Economist.’ The village of Higharn , in the hills to the N., contains a building called the Courthouse, on the front of which are the arms of John of Gaunt. It is said to have been anciently used for trying and exe- cuting criminals.] [A 2nd and still more interesting excursion can be made from Whalley to the Roman Catholic College of Stonyhurst , 5 m., through Mitton village. Tickets are necessary to see Stonyhurst, and can be obtained from several of the Roman Catholic priests in Preston or Blackburn. For the whole way the building is conspicuous to the traveller, who is inclined to underrate the distance, but he will find the road winds con- siderably. 2 m. The view is charming at Mitton Bridge, where a corner of Yorkshire is entered, a little above the confluence of the Ribble and the Hodder. Below that again, the Calder falls in — “ As Hodder, that from home attends me from my spring, Then Calder coming down, from Blackstone Edge doth bring Me eas’iy on my way.” — Drayton. “ The Rybell, a river verie rich of salmon and lampreie, dooth in manner inviron Preston in Andermeere, and it riseth neere to Ribbesdale, above Gisburne. It goeth from thence to Sawley or Salley, Chatburne, Clitthe- row Castell, and beneath Mitton meeteth with the Odder. It hath not gone farre, but it meeteth with the Calder.” — Harrison. The old country rhyme has it thus : — “ The Hodder, the Calder, Kibble, and rain, All meet together In Mitton domain.” On the 1., overlooking the river, is Mitton Hall (John Hick, Esq., M.P. for Bolton), formerly the resi- dence of the Catterals, and after- wards of the Sherburnes. In the 17th century it was purchased by Alexander Holt, goldsmith of Lon- don, through whose descendants it came by marriage to the Beaumonts. 74 Boute 7 . — Great Mitton Church — Stonyhursl. The interior contains a fine old Gothic hall, and is altogether a good specimen of domestic archi- tecture of the reigns of Henry VII. and Henry VIII. On the other side the bridge is the Aspinall Arms Inn , a comfortable little hostelry, which the artist or the fisherman will find a convenient locality for their respec- tive pursuits. The ch. of Great Mitton has been well restored, and is very interesting from the monu- mental remains of the Sherburne family. It consists of nave, chan- cel, N. aisle (called the Sherburne Chapel), and W. tower. The E. window is of 5 lights and of stained glass with armorial bearings of the Sherburnes. On S. side of the altar are sedilia, and there is some good carving in the oak screen, the pul- pit, and the top of the font. The screen is said to have been brought from Cockersand Abbey, and has a Latin inscription running across it, to the effect that it was put up in the time of the Lord Abbot William Staynford. The Sherburne Chapel contains monuments to Sir Nicholas Sherburne, 1688, with a curious epi- taph setting forth his goodness in teaching his neighbours wool spin- ning and combing ; a recumbent effigy of Sir Richard Sherburne, 1629 ; also of another Sir Richard Sherburne and his wife ; and of the Hon. Peregrine Widdrington, who was thrown with his brother into prison after the Preston affair of 1715. 4 m. the Hodder is crossed — a delightful bit of landscape — and Lancashire re-entered. 5 m. Stonyhurst is the most im- portant seminary for Roman Catho- lic students in England, the next largest being that of Oseott, in Staffordshire. The buildings are on a fine scale, the nucleus of them being the Elizabethan mansion of the Sherburnes, 1596, to which large additions have been made to accom- modate the increasing wants of the school. A very extensive and hand- some new block of buildings to form the chief S. fa9ade is erected. After the death of Sir Nicholas Sher- burne, it came into the hands of his daughter, the Duchess of Norfolk, and then to Mr. Weld, of Lulworth, who installed here the English Je- suits, who after their expulsion from St. Omer, settled at Liege, only to be turned out of that town by the government, which followed up the suppression of the order by Pope Clement XIV. There are a fine S. front and quadrangle, 80 ft. by 100, but the rest of the buildings are of modern character. The main por- tion was erected by Sir Richard Sherburne, knighted for his bravery at the battle of Leith ; and the cupolas of the towers were added by Sir Nicholas, who, it was said, only spent 50 1. upon them. The chief objects of interest are the Dormi- tories, the Infirmary, the Refectory, which contains a painting after Murillo , ‘and the Chapel, which has some fine frescoes and painted ceil- ing. The Library is very well ar- ranged, and contains amongst its 30,000 vols. some rare works and curiosities. Among the former are some beautiful Missals and a com- plete copy of Froissart’s ‘ Chroni- cles a fine series of black letter works ; early specimens of printing, including Cax ton’s 4 Golden Le- gende;’ a MS. attributed to St. Francis de Sales ; the Homilies of Pope Gregory ; a copy of the Gos- pels of St. John, supposed to have been found in the tomb of St. Cuth- bert; and several Amharic MSS., brought from Abyssinia. Among the latter are a Bible that belonged to Mary, Queen of Scots, and which she held in her hand when she mounted the scaffold; Sir Thomas More’s hat and seal ; a cabinet of Mary, Queen of England; and a large collection of stuffed birds pre- sented by Mr. Waterton. Boute 7 . — Clitheroe : Castle . 75 The gardens are very well worth seeing, and are remarkable for their quaint arrangement and the dark walks shaded by yew-trees. The centre of the garden is occupied by an observatory, magnetic and astro- nomical. The College is divided into t wo sec- tions — an upper one for the students, and the seminary for the boys, of which there are 200. There is another house on the banks of the Hodder, which accommodates 30 of the younger ones. A certain number of elder students are received, who enjoy privileges over the others, and are styled “philosophers,” a large number of them being foreigners. A large farm is attached to the College within its boundaries, and altogether it is a perfect colony, producing almost everything that it requires. To the S. of Stonyhurst is Hurst Green , a village with some bobbin manufactories ( Inn : Sher- burne Arms). The tourist can either return to Whalley, or round the Fell to Longridge. (Rte. 16. )j From Whalley Stat. the rly. runs due N., passing on 1. Great Mitton, and on rt. Standen Hall (J. P. Aspinall, Esq.). 35 m. Clitheroe (Inn : Swan) was in Norman times one of the two an- cient seats of the De Lacys (the other being at Pontefract), who became possessed of the Honour of Clitheroe, either by direct gift from William the Norman or through Roger de Buisli and Albert Greslet, to whom the original Baron, Robert de Poic- tou, had granted the Hundred. Henry de Lacy, the last of the line, left one daughter (1310), who married and brought the Honour into the possession of Thomas Plantage- net, Earl of Lancaster. But on the Earl’s attainder, the property was forfeited to the Crown, and con- tinued an appanage of the Duchy of Lancaster until Charles II. be- stowed it upon General Monk, Duke of Albemarle. From him it has descended to the Duke of Buccleuch, the present owner. A curious docu- ment is in existence respecting the conveyance of rents from Clitheroe to London. “ One pound in every hundred was allowed to the steward as a kind of insurance. The whole was packed up in canvas bags, and 2 shillings per diem were allowed for fifteen days in eundo , morando et redeundo , during the convey- ance.” — Whitaker . The Castle, which is in a most commanding situation on the sum- mit of a limestone rock overlooking the vale of Ribble, was dismantled by the Parliament during the Civil War, and nothing of the original building remains but the keep and portions of the outer wall, within which was formerly the chapel of St. Michael de Castro. On part of the site of the castle stands the com- paratively modern residence with embattled fronts of A. J. Robinson, Esq., the Duke’s steward for the Honour. The Grammar School was founded in 1554 by Philip and Mary. An old place in the town called The Alleys was the residence of the Cliderhows, and was moated, but there are not any traces of the ancient mansion. The Clyderhowes are first heard of in the reign of Ed- ward I., when the Welsh marched through Lancashire to unite with the English against the Scots. The church has been modernised. It con- tains a couple of mutilated figures, supposed to be effigies of Sir Richard Radclifie and his wife ; a brass , ornamented with a horoscope, in memory of Dr. Webster, author of the ‘ Disco verie of Witchcraft ’ (1677), and other wmrks, and mas- ter of the grammar school (1682); and a monument, by Westmacott , to Thomas Wilson, also a master, who held office in the present eenty . 76 Boute 7 . — Clitheroe — Pendle Hill . The E. window is of stained glass, with armorial bearings. Clitheroe also numbers among its natives Captain James King, the friend and companion of Captain Cook, the voyager; and the ancestors of Sir William Dugdale, the antiquary. Immediately across the bridge is a farmhouse called Edisford , which marks the site of a famous hos- pital for lepers, dedicated to St. Nicholas as “ Domus Lepro- sorum de Edisforth,” but it does not seem to have existed later than 1500. With the exception of the castle, and the view from it, there is not much to interest the visitor ; but Clitheroe is a good point from whence to ascend Pendle Hill , which rises in a huge mass to the E. to the height of 1851 ft. Although inferior to other hills within sight, it is described in the Yorkshire doggrel — “ Ingleborough, Pendle Hill, and Penny- ghent Are the highest hills between Scotland and Trent.” Its outlines are not the most pic- turesque, denudation having re- duced the summit to a plateau- but the view from it is very fine, em- bracing on the W. the whole of the Irish Channel, and on the E. ex- tending as far as York Minster on a clear day. “ The very name of Pendle Hill carries with it, in Lancashire, something impressive, though it may often be indefinably so. It is a synonym, throughout the district, for the profoundest antiquity, and is asso- ciated at once With watch fires and with witchcraft. Yet, except for the explorer, the reward of the climb is indifferent. The views are grand, and plenty of mountain plants may be collected, but there is nothing peculiar. A pleasing association exists, however, in the circumstance that John Kay, the father of English botany, records in his Synopsis that near the beacon he gathered Bifolium minimum , now called Lister a cor data. This would be about 1690.” — Grindon. Owing, perhaps, to the depth of the peat and the quantity of springs, Pendle Hill is notable for several very alarming inundations, one of which, in 1669, was so sudden and powerful that, as two people were crossing on horseback a brook on their way to church, the hinder one could not pass. On the other side of the hill is a a great ravine called “ the Brast or Burst Clough ,” which is said to have been formed entirely from this cause. The summit of the Pendle was dreaded, in old days, from its being crowned by Malkin Tower , the resort of witches. Bubus Chamaemorus also grows on Pendle Hill — a semi-arctic plant, which Prof. Forbes considered to belong to the glacial era. Pendle was one of the great forests into which Blackburnshire was divided, the others being Trawden, Rossen- dale, and Accrington. Nearly at its foot, overlooking Clitheroe, is Mear - ley Hall , an old residence of the Nowells. A fine old bay window is left, said to have been brought by Christopher Nowell from Sawley Abbey. Clitheroe Moor was the scene of a battle between David I. of Scot- land and King Stephen. A considerable trade is carried on in the town and neighbourhood in cotton - spinning, calico - printing, paper-making, bobbin-turning, &c. Pop. 10,000. [A very beautiful excursion, suit- able chiefly for pedestrians, may be taken from Clitheroe, over the mountains, to Lancaster, between 25 and 26 m., by Whitewell, 9 m. 1 m. Lowmoor , a little factory village on the banks of the Kibble, which is crossed just between the road entering Yorkshire. 2J m. Bashall , an old residence of the Talbot family. Between this Boute 7 . — Browsholme — Bowland. 77 place and Waddington a number of skeletons were found, together with some fibulae, probably indicating an engagement between the Ro- mans and Britons. 6| m. Browsholme (pronounced Brooslem), the seat of T. G. Parker, Esq., hereditary Forester of Bow- land. The house dates from 1604, and consists of a centre, two wings, and front facade. It con- tains some valuable MSS. and the silver seal of the Commonwealth “for the approbation of public preachers.” The hall is a fine apart- ment, adorned with old oak and suits of armour. Amongst the curiosities is the stirrup of the forest, through which every dog was ex- pected to be able to pass. From hence the road ascends the hill of Rudholme Laund (the latter term signifying an enclosure for deer), and then plunges suddenly dowm a steep descent, into the valley of the Hodder, to 9 m. Whitewell , a charming little village, with a remarkably com- fortable Inn close to the river’s edge. Hard by is the little chapel erected in the time of Henry VII., and in the valley above is the train- ing establishment of Col. Towneley. At the head of the valley the Hodder turns to the rt., receiving the tributaries of the Brennand, the Langden, and the Hareden Brook. “ The Hodder, coming down from Cross of Greet, forms the boundary of Yorkshire and Lancashire, as it must originally have done between two British tribes, the word 2 * 4 Odre ’ in that language signifying a limit or bound.” — Whitaker. The hills here rise to a considerable height, varying from 1000 to 1400 ft., and the road turns to the 1., following the course of the Langden for 2 m., and then breasting the hill of Trough Bank (1383 ft.) by what is known as the Trough of Bowland, the highest point which the road has to ascend. The forest of BmvJand , or Bolland, is the watershed of streams, which run into the Lune on the one side and the Ribble on the other — and the Yorkshire boundary passes along the crests of its highest ridges — Wolf Crag, Cross of Greet, Bolland Knots and Burmoor— names which are more picturesque than the country in which they are found. The forest of Bowland belonged to the Honour of Clitheroe, and was celebrated for its reputation as a sporting district, on which account it obtained its name. The laws of the day were very severe. Amongst others, it was provided “that the several tenants, as well leaseholders as fee-farmers, are bound to suffer the deere to go unmolested into their several grounds ; they are also fyned, if anie, without lysens, keep anie dogg bigger than will go through a stirupe, to hunt the deere out of the eorne.” On the other side of the Trough of Bolland the road descends upon the Wyre, which takes its rise in Manshaw Fell close by — “Arriving but a rill, at first from Wyres- dale’s lap, Yet still receiving strength from her full mother’s pap, As down to seawarde shee, her serious course doth plye, Takes Calder coming in, to bear her com- pany, And Bowland from her breast, sends Brock her to attend, As shee a forest is .” —Drayton. The road does not, however, keep close to it for long, but strikes across the shoulder of a hill to the Grysdale Brook, a tributary of the Wyre. From hence it is a succes- sion of hill and dale to Lancaster (Rte. 17).] 2 m. N.W. of Clitheroe, within the Yorkshire boundary and across the Ribbie, is Waddington Hall , an old seat of the Tempests, who in- herited it by the marriage of their ancestor with Alice, heiress of the 78 Boufe 7 . — Waddington Hall — Sawley Abbey. De Waddingtons in the reign of Edward I. “The usurper, Henry VI., after the battle of Hexham, in 1463, was conveyed into this county, where he was concealed by his vassals for an entire twelvemonth, notwithstanding the most diligent search made after him. At length he was surprised at 'dinner at Wad- dingtcn Hall, and taken at Bun- gerley Hippingstones near Clithe- row. The house was burnt, but the king found means to get out, ran across the fields below Waddow Hall, and passed the Kibble on the stepping - stones into a wood on the Lancashire side called Christian Pightle, but, being closely pursued, was there taken. From thence he was carried to London in the most piteous manner on horseback, with his legs tied to the stirrups/ 5 ' — Pennant. A grant was made to Sir John de Waddyngton for assisting in the capture, although a gross breach of hospitality — “ pro servitio suo in magni captura adversarii nostri Henrici nuper de facto non de jure regis Anglise.” The rly. continues N.E. from Clitheroe, passing on 1. an old house called Horrocksford Hall , formerly the residence of the Parkers of Browsholme; and several lime- works, which are very abundant in this part of the county— reaching 37 m. Chatburn Stat. ( Inn : PendL ). A large number of Roman coins were found here in the last century. To the rt. is Downham , the seat of R. Assheton, Esq. In the neighbourhood are found crys- tals as lustrous as Bristol stones, and called Downham diamonds. They are alluded to in the old song — “ When Downham stones with diamond rings And cociles he with pearles compared.” The Asshetons have held Downham since the 17th centy., when it was in the possession of Nicholas Asshe- ton, a somewhat jovial Puritan, and author of the ‘Journal,’ dated 1617. He is a prominent cha- racter in Ainsworth’s ‘Lancashire Witches/ The church contains the monuments of the family. 2 m. to the N. of Clitheroe, within the Yorkshire border, are the ruins of Sawley Abbey (Cistercian). The actual remains are very slight and of little architectural importance — but the ground plan, by the direc- tion of the Marquis of Ripon, the present owner, has been most care- fully traced, and in this respect Sawley is not less interesting than Fountains or Jervaulx. Sawley (no doubt, as Whitaker suggests, the “ willow field,” seal , A.-S. = a willow) was founded in 1147 by William de Percy, Lord of Topcliffe and Spofforth and of the whole of Ribblesdale within Craven, The house (which was dedicated to St. Mary and St. Andrew, and known as Mons Sti. Andrese de Salley) was colonised from New- minster, in Northumberland — the first offshoot from Fountains — but about 40 years after its foundation the poverty of Sawley was so great that it would have been suppressed, had not Maud, Countess of War- wick, the founder s daughter and heiress, granted to it the ch. of Tadcaster and 100 acres of land in Cal ton, where she was born. The convent still remained poor and dissatisfied, however, complaining of the bad climate, of the hospitality they were compelled to show to numbers of people passing on to the public way near their house, and of the ravages of the Scots — but al- though few additional grants of land seem to have been made to it, a household book of the abbey, pre- served at Whalley, shows that, in 1381, its revenue amounted to about 377 l. y so that its position had by that time greatly improved. The last abbot, William Tr afford, was concerned in the Pilgrimage of 79 Route 7 . — Sawley : Church . Grace, and was accordingly hanged at Lancaster in 1537. The house, which was then dissolved, was granted to Sir Arthur Darcy, one of the Northern Commissioners for the suppression. From him it passed through many hands to its present owner. There were frequent disagree- ments between the monks of Sawley and Whalley — the former com- plaining that their arrival had made all the necessaries of life dearer in the neighbourhood. In a provincial chapter of the Cister- cian abbots, held in 1305, the monks of the two houses were exhorted to live in brotherly love, and it was ordered that every Sawley monk offending against Whadey should be sent to Whalley for punishment, and vice versa. This ingenious plan seems to have been effectual in preventing breaches of the monastic peace. The site of Sawley can never have been so secluded as those of other Cistercian houses in the county; but the highway which now runs close to the river was originally on the W. of the mill stream, and the park or close of about 50 acres quite surrounded the abbey. This close, which was entered by two gates called N. and S. port, has been cleared, and from the high ground above it there is a very fine view up and down Kibblesdale. The church was in progress of alteration when the house was sup- pressed, and the plan, owing to the condition in which the work was arrested, is at first perplexing. The first ch. was cruciform, but with the peculiarity that the length of the transept exceeded that of the united nave and choir by 12 ft. There were no aisles. The transept had 3 eastern chapels in each wing. The short nave, of which the walls remain to a height of 25 ft., seems to have had no side windows, and to have been lighted only from above the W. door. Outside its N. wall is a foundation ranging with the nave, but prolonged considerably beyond it. This seems to have been an additional aisle or chapel, built during the Dec. period, since a piscina of that character remains in the (once exterior) wall of the nave. There was no communica- tion, however, with the nave, and apparently none with the transept. In the southernmost of the chapels is a large tomb slab, sculptured with two polished crosses. S.W. of it, in the body of the transept, is the tomb slab of William of Eiving- ton, Prior of Sawley, and, in 1372, Chancellor of Oxford. The pave- ments in the middle chapel of each transept are of the 13th centy., and excellent of design. In the northern- most chapel is a slab which covered the remains of “ Sir Kobert de Clyderhow,” once “ Parson of Wigan, a strong supporter of Thomas, Earl of Lancaster, in his quarrel with Edward II. in 1321. The choir seems to have been re- built in the Perp. period, although the walls of the original Norm, choir still remain, and were pro- bably left till a central tower could be erected. At the S. end of the transept are the foundations of the chapter- house and two adjoining apartments not easily appropriated. The S. side of the cloister court has been de- molished nearly to the foundation. Here, however, were the great re- fectory and kitchen. Of the farm buildings, a granary and corn-mill alone remain, at a short distance W. The northern gate-house, in which the Tudor arch of the outer and inner walls is alone ancient, stands about 270 ft. from the ruins. An extension of the railway from Chatburn, formerly the terminus of the line, through Gisburn, to con- nect with the Midland line to Car- lisle and Scotland at Hellifield is now opened. 80 Route 8 . — Preston to Colne . EOUTE 8. PRESTON TO COLNE, By BLACKBURN, ACCRINGTON, AND BURNLEY. The Lancashire and Yorkshire Ely., which connects these towns, leaves the London and North- Western immediately outside the general station at Preston (Kte. 16), and crosses the Eibble by a long viaduct. The view on each side is exceedingly pretty, the banks of the river immediately beneath the rly. being gay with flowers, and the well-kept walks of the Miller and Avenham Parks. The line then runs S.E., leaving the ch. and village of Walton-le- Dale to the 1. At Preston Ji:nc. the line from Ormskirk and Liverpool falls in (Ete. 15). 3 m. Bamber Bridge St at., a populous village with several large cotton-mills. Adjoining it is Cuer- den Hall, the seat of the late E. Towneley Parker, Esq., whose an- cestor, Banastre Parker, built it in 1716. An older house existed here in the 15th centy., which belonged to Christopher Banastre, of Bank, one of whose heiresses brought it to the Parker family by marriage. 6 m. Hoghton Stat. About 1J m. on the rt., occupying a conspicuous position on the summit of an abrupt wooded hill, is Hoghton Tower, in the 16th and 17th centuries one of the proudest of English mansions, but for many years past a dilapi- dated ruin. It has now, however, in respect of its external walls, been put in repair, and is no longer open to the public. It is the fa- mily seat of the De Hoghtons (Sir Charles de Hoghton, Bart.), who held property here, it is said, since the time of Henry II., in the person of Adam de Hocton or Dominus de Hocton, to whose descendant, Sir Bichard, permission was given to I enclose a park. The present house, which has been so long in a ruined state, was built in 1565, by Thomas Hoghton, Esq., “who/' sajs Kuer- den, the antiquary, “ translated this manor-house formerly placed below the hill, nere unto the waterside. Betwixt ye inward square court and the second (between the 1st and 2nd courts) was a very strong tall tower or gate-house, which, in the late and unhappy civil wars, was accidently blown up with powder, with some adjacent buildings, after the surrender thereof, and Captain Starkey, with 200 more, were killed in that blast most woefully. This stately fabric is environed with the remnant of a spacious park, which in former times was so full of timber that a man passing through it could scarce have seen the sun shine at middle of day ; but, of later days, most of it has been destroyed. It was much replenished with wild beasts, as with boars and bulls of a white and spangled colour, and red deer in great plenty — the last as yet pre- served for game by the lords thereof.*’ The main body of the building, which is entered from the quad- rangle by a circular flight of steps, contains some fine rooms ; the hall, 51 ft. long by 30 ft. wide, the green room, the marble room, and the king’s room, which King James I. occupied during his visit to Sir Kichard de Hoghton in 1617. This occasion was the most notable in the history of Hoghton Tower, the 81 "Route 8 . — Hoghton Tower : Park. royal guest not only bringing with him a splendid court, but attract- ing half Lancashire to assist at the sports and pay respect to majesty. Sir Richard himself met the king at the foot of the hill with a long train of the proudest gentry of Lancashire, who did not disdain to wear Sir Richard’s livery out of compliment. An extract from Nicholas Assheton's ( of Downham) diary says : u My brother Sher- borne’s taylor brought him a suit of apparel, and us two others, and a livery cloak from Sir Richard Hogh- ton, that we should attend him at the king’s coming, rather for his grace and reputation than any exacting of mean service.’ , No ex- pense was spared to keep the king constantly amused by masques, dances, feasts, and stag-hunts in Hoghton Park. “ A petition which was presented here to King James by a great number of Lancashire peasants, tradesmen, and servant's, requesting that they might be al- lowed to take their diversions (as of old accustomed) after divine service on Sundays, is said to have been the origin of the ‘ Book of Sports,’ soon after promulgated by royal authority. James being per- suaded that those were Puritans who forbade such diversions, and that they were Jewishly inclined, be- cause they affected to call Sunday the Sabbath, recommended that diverting exercises should be used after evening prayers, and ordered the book to be read publicly in all churches ; and such ministers as refused to obey the injunction were threatened with severe punishment in the High Commission Court. This legal violation of the day which is unequivocally the Chris- tian Sabbath, roused at the time the indignation of the seriously dis- posed, and has been frequently re- probated by historians. Foremost of its opposers, and eminent in example, stands the virtuous and [ Lancashire ] firm Archbishop Abbot, who, being at Croydon the day it was ordered to be read in churches, flatly forbade it to be read there, which the king was pleased to wink at, notwith- standing the daily endeavours that were used to irritate the king against him .” — NichoVs * Royal Progresses of James I.’ It was during one of the banquets at Hoghton that King James is said to have knighted the loin of beef and ordered it ever afterwards to be called the Sir-loin ; although, according to some, the beef was already called sur-loin, and the royal punster merely played upon the word — “ The god, in guise of yeoman tall. Pass’d along the crowded hall; And with portly mien and bland Gave this to the monarch’s hand. The well known dish the king surveyed, And then drew forth the shining blade, He waved it thrice, with gentle tap Thrice imposed the knightly slap.” Old Ballad. The view from the gateway of Hoghton Tower is fine, and em- braces a vast expanse of the valley and estuary of the Ribble, with the mountains of Wales, occasionally visible to the S.W., the ] dlls of the Lake region to the N.W., and the Yorkshire Fells at the head of Ribblesdale to the N.E. From Hoghton Stat. the rly. has a very picturesque course at the foot of Hoghton Hill, the ravine of which is crossed by a viaduct 116 ft. high, overlooking on 1. the valley of the Darwen, dotted with mills and hamlets. 8 m. Pleasington Stat. On rt. is Fen/'scowles (Celtic, Pen-ys-goil, Head of the Cliff), the seat of Sir W. L. Feilden, Bart. An old Saxon tradition held that Feniscowles was the locus habitandi of the Phoenix. In Henry III.’s reign this property belonged to the De Pleasingtons, who failing in the male line, it was brought by the heiress to the De G 82 Route 8 .—Pleasington Hall — Hapton. Wynkleys, and afterwards to the Ainsworths, by whom it was sold to the grandfather of the present baronet. The house contains paint- ings by Ostade, Murillo, H. Caracci , C. Dolce , N. Poussin, &c. On 1. of rly. is Pleasington Hall (J. E. Butler-Bowden, Esq.), a hand- some modern Grecian mansion. The old hall still exists ; a good specimen of an Elizabethan residence. Upon the porch is the date 1587. Plea- sington was long the residence of the family of Ainsworth, a member of which, in the time of James I., was Henry Ainsworth, a noted Puri- tan preacher, and author of 4 Anno- tations on the Five Books of Moses,’ and numerous controversial tracts. 9 m. Cherry Tree Stat. On 1. is Witton (Maj.-Gen. Feilden). 11 m. Blackburn Junc. (Kte. 7 ). 13f m. near Rishton Stat. there is a large reservoir, to feed the Leeds and Liverpool Canal. 15 J m. near Church Stat. are the Rhyddings (K. Watson, Esq.) and Paddock House (G.Walmsley, Esq.), and a little to the N. are the vil- lages of Clayton-in-Moors and En- field. The latter contains a Eoman Catholic chapel, with an altar-piece by Caracci, representing “ The Pre- sentation in the Temple.” Adjoin- ing the village are Dunkenhaigh Park (H. Petre, Esq.), the hall of which was built temp. James I., and recently rebuilt in Elizabethan style ; Sparth House , the old seat of the Whalleys ; and Clayton Hall (James Lomax, Esq.), the property of the Be Claytons in the reign of Edward lit. The present house is modern. Some little distance to the rt. of the rly. are Knuzden Hall, an old seat of a family named Baron ; and Peel Fold, where the first Sir Robert Peel resided in his early life. 16^ m. Accrington Junc. Accrington (Inn: Hargreaves Arms) is a busy manufacturing town and new municipal borough of about 30,000 inhab., principally employed in the factories for cotton and mous- seline de laine, in machine and print works. Its chief architectural objects are the Peel Institution (now the Town Hall), a handsome Italian building, erected in 1857 at a cost of 8000/. ; the Market House ; the new Mechanics’ Institute ; and the new Baptist ch., near the rly. stat. There are 3 chs., the parish ch. and 2 new ones. The Grange, an old house, was probably a monastic farm- house belonging to Kirkstall Abbey. In the neighbourhood are Hollins, which was plundered in consequence of the owner’s (Robt. Cunliffe) op- position to Cromwell’s measures; and High Riley, the residence of tiie Rileys in the I6th centy. Arden (B. Hargreaves, Esq.), near Accrington, was a station of the army placed here by William the Conqueror to guard the passes be- tween Lancashire and Yorkshire. It was also a grange to Kirkstall Abbey. The line now keeps a northerly direction through a somewhat bleak country to 18 J m. Huncoat Stat., to 1. of which is Altham. The ch. has some frescoes and a stained-glass E. win- dow, by Clutterbuck, to the memory of Hacking, the inventor of the carding engine. The font was given to the ch. by Abbot Paslew, of Whalley. Altham Hall, now a farmhouse, was originally moated, and contains some Pointed doorways. Shuttle- worth Hall, between Hapton and Altham, was the seat of the Shuttle- worths, temp. Edward III. The present house was built in the reign of James I. 19 j m. Hapton Stat. Both the old halls at these places are now farmhouses ; the latter was the residence of the Habergham family 83 Boute 8 .— in the 14th centy. The old castle of Hapton was once a seat of the Towneleys, who had a large park here of 10 miles in circumference. It still contains traces of the pitfalls dug for impounding stray deer, when the two families of the Towneleys and the Haberghams were on bad terms with each other. A fter the death of Charles Towneley at Marston Moor, it was sequestrated. To the S. is Hameldon Rill , locally celebrated for its building-stone quarries of car- bonaceous sandstone. A Roman road runs near the foot of Hapton Scouts. 21 m. at Rosegrove Junc. the branch to Todmorden (Rte. 4) is given off, the main line turning to the 1. to 22 j m. Burnley Stat. ( Inn : Bull). Burnley, anciently called Brunley, from its situation at the confluence of the little river Brun with the Calder, is a large manufacturing town, containing about 50,000 Pop. dependent on cotton-spinning and weaving, and the woollen trade. Except for the pretty scenery in the neighbourhood, the tourist need not be detained, for the town is smoky, and contains not many fine public buildings or objects of historic in- terest. The church dates from the time of Edward III., but has been fre- quently repaired and added to: it contains nave, with aisles, chancel, chapels, and tower. The chancel end has been recently handsomely rebuilt. The Towneley family have a number of monuments here in the Towneley Chapel, at the E. of the N. aisle, amongst which is one to Charles Towneley, the antiquary (d. 1805). He resided many years in Rome, and formed the large collection of antique marbles, known as the Towneley marbles, in the British Museum. The E. end of the S. aisle is occu- pied by the Stansfield Chapel, which contains a monument to the wife of - Burnley . Major Thursby. The chancel has a stained-glass window^ in memory of Archdeacon Master. Burnley contains the usual busi- ness and municipal institutions, and also a Grammar School founded in 1650, for which a very elegant new school-house has lately been erected. u Many pure Danish words are still current in Burnley, and are very expressive in their meaning/ 5 In the neighbourhood of the town are Bank Rail , the seat of the late Gen. Sir Jas. Scarlett; Towneley Rail (the late >Col. Towneley) (Rte. 4); and The Holme (J. H. Whitaker, Esq.), the former residence of Dr. Whitaker, the antiquary and histo- rian of Whalley (Rte. 7): also the following old houses — Fulledge , J m, S.E., between Burnley and Towne- ley ; Boyle , on the "banks of the Calder, 1 m. N.W., built in the 17th centy. ; Rey sand forth, 1 m. N.E., on the banks of the Brun, the seat, in Edward IP’s time, of Oliver Stans- feld ; and Danes or Dancer House, J m. N., once the property of the ancient family of Foldys. Pleasant excursions can be made from Burnley along the vale of Calder to Todmorden (Rte. 4), over the moors of Cliviger to Bacup, by Deerplay Hill, 7 m. (Rte. 6), and to Whalley, 6 m., through Padi- ham, 3 m., and one especially inte- resting to pedestrians (which is sub- joined) may be taken from Burnley to Clitheroe. 2 m. Rudley Hollow ; cross the Calder. 2 m. Fence Church; 1 m. New Kirk ; 1 m. Barley, foot of Pendle Hill ; 1 m. summit of Pendle Hill ; 2 m. Mearley Hall ; 2 m. Clitheroe. Bail to Todmorden, 8^ m. ; Roch- dale, 16. | m. ; Colne, 5J m. ; Skipton, 18 m. ; Accrington, 5| m. ; Black- burn, 11m.; Manchester, 27 m. (by Rochdale). 3^ m. to the E. is Ex- twistle Rail , an old ruined residence of the Parkers in the 16th centy. ; and between it and Burnley is Rowley , G 2 84 Boute 8 . — Colne- the old seat of the Halsteads, of th ■* date of 1543. Lawrence Halstead was keeper of the records in the Tower, and so determined a Royalist that he was excepted out of all acts of indemnity in the treaties between Charles I. and the Parliament. The rly. continues northward through a broken and picturesque district to 25 m. Brierfield Stat. On rt. is the manufacturing village of Marsden and Marsden Hall , and 1. are Old Laund Hall and Carr Hall (T. Every-Clayton, Esq.). 26 m. Nelson Stat. Nelson in Marsden is now (1879) a large manu- facturing village of some 10,000 in- habitants. 28 m. Colne Stat. ( Inn : Swan.) Upon the ridge of a hill stands the little town of Colne, which, from the discovery of rings and coins at various times, is supposed to have been the site of the Roman station Colunio of the Ravennas. Colne, which has now a number of cotton factories, was formerly noted for its trade in woollen and worsted goods ; and a building still exists, called The Piece Hall , once used as a sort of exchange, but now for general pur- poses. “ In the 4th of Edward II. there was one fulling-mill, charged at 6s. 8 d. ; a circumstance which implies that cloth was manufactured here at an early period, and contra- dicts the generally received opinion that English wool was universally manufactured in Flanders, till an Act of the 10th of Edward III.” — Hugdale. The church is of the 16th centy., and contains nave, low tower, side aisles, chancel, and 2 chapels ; that on the N. of the chancel belonging to the family of Bannister of Parkhill, and on the S. to the Towneleys of Barnside, an old house in the neigh- bourhood. In the interior is a carved rood-screen. The E. and W. win- dows are Perp., and there are some Norm, columns in the N. aisle. — Wy coller Hall . “Against the E. wall of the N. chapel, is a singular Latin inscrip- tion, cut upon oak, and probably of the date of 1508, in which a fervent invocation is br< athed to the Virgin, by William Hyrd, for protection against diabolical illusions in the hour of death.” — Baines. Close to the ch.-yard is the Grammar School , where Archbishop Tillotson was educated. He was a native of these parts, his mother being a Nutter of Pendle Forest. There are several old houses in the neighbourhood ; and Colne Hall is now a mean cottage. Langroyd Hall (W. T. Carr, Esq.) is an old mansion partly modernised. Barn- side , the ancient residence of a branch of the Towneley family, is 3 m. to the E., and belonged to the Priory of St. John of Pontefract. It is a strongly built house, in a bleak situation. Emmott Hall (Geo. Emmott Greene, Esq.), 2J m. on the Skipton road, near Laneshaw Bridge. The old house was built by Robert de Emott in 1310 ; though it is said that even before this time there was a Due de Emot who came over with William the Conqueror and settled here. Camden mentions that in the Emmott pastures grew two rare Lancashire plants. Lichen glaucus and L. ampullaceus. 1 m. to S. of Emmott is Wycoller Hall , now a ruin, but formerly the seat of the Hartleys and afterwards of the Cunliffes. Wycoller was a very characteris- tic mansion, seated at the foot of the wild moors that form the Forest of Trawden, and still contains a large fire-place detached from the wall, with stone benches all round it. In the possession of the Cun- liffes is an old MS. which gives a description of family life there in former days : — “ At Wycoller Hall they usually kept open house for 12 days at Christmas. Their entertainment 85 Route 9 . — Manchester to Wigan . was a long table, plenty of fru- menty like new milk made of husked wheat, boiled and roasted beef, with a fat goose and pudding, with plenty of good beer for dinner. A round- about fire-place, surrounded with stone benches, where the young folks sat and cracked nuts and diverted themselves ; and in this manner the sons and daughters got matching without going much from home.” The dialect of this district is very peculiar, 44 being a mixture of Lanca- shire and the Craven. The verb ‘ to gawm ’ is used to imply to under- stand, and hence the word ‘ gawra- less,’ which is a genuine provincial- ism of the county. The general patois is very rugged, and the na- tural sound oo is perverted into that of oy t as 4 spoyn ’ and 4 noyn ’ for spoon and noon , The fame of the Pendle witches extended to Colne ; and to guard the inhabitants against their machinations, Margaret Pear- son, of Pad i ham, one of the weird sisters, was placed, in 1612, upon the pillory here, by sentence of Sir Edward Bromley. It does not ap- pear that the inhabitants of the district took any very prominent part in the Civil Wars; but, in a despatch sent to Parliament in 1642, they are commemorated amongst 4 .sturdy churls, who were ready to fight against the king’s forces 4 rather than that the beef and fat bacon should be taken from them.’ ” — Baines. From Colne the rly. passes rt. Alkincoals , the ancient seat of the De Alkincoats in Edward II. ’s time, and now a second house of the Parkers of Browsholme. There are large canal reservoirs, near Foulridge Stat. Crag House (W. II. Wood, Esq.) Here the rly. enters Yorkshire {Handbook for Yorkshire ) . ROUTE 9. MANCHESTER TO WIGAN, BY ECCLES AND TYLDESLEY. London and North- Western Bailway. Leaving Manchester by the Vic- toria Stat., the traveller passes on the 1. whilom Hew Bay ley Prison, now a portion of the Lancashire and Yorkshire goods stat. Ordsall Lane Stat ., so called from the old country road which leads from the main road through Salford to Ordsall Hall , an old seat of the Radclitfe family, and the scene of Harrison Ainsworth’s novel 4 Guy Fawkes.’ The old hall is now used as a working men’s club. It is sur- rounded by cottages and mills. A little further on 1. is the Ordsall Public Park ; Infantry Barracks ; Manchester Pact course ; Militia Barracks ; Salford Workhouse and Salford Cemetery. 2 m. Cross Lane Stat. On the rt. is the extensive cattle market, the only open one in Manchester and Salford ; Seedley Public Park ; and in rear of that, running 2 m. in S.W. direction, is Eccles Old Road, one of the finest roads in the county, and bordered by many of the best houses in the vicinity of Manchester. (Taking the road from E. to W. in order : SummerhiU (W. Agnew, Esq.); Builla Hill (Mr. Alderman Bennett) ; Chaseley (Chas. Heywood, Esq.) ; Light Oaks (E. S. Heywood, Esq.) ; Clare- mont ( O. Heywood, Esq. ) ; Hart Hill (T. H. Birley, Esq.) ; Hope 86 'Route 9 . — Redes. Hall (F. W. Grafton, Esq.) ; The Bool eery fE. Armitage, Esq.); The Weaste (Mrs. Tootal) ; Fair Hope (Thos. Agnew, Esq ) : Broom House (Emil Beiss, Esq.); Bentcliffe House , the seat successively of the Holts, the Valentines, and the Whittakers. The grounds have been sold for building upon.) 3 m. Weaste Stat ., so called from a piece of waste land which existed here. On 1. Bolton Lodge (John Greenwood, Esq.) ; Irwell Banh (J. Dugdale, Esq.) ; Eccles Vicarage (Bev. J. P. Pitcairn). 4 m. Eccles Stat. {Hotel: Cross Keys, near ch.). Eccles gives the name to a large old ecclesiastical parish, once extending from Salford to Bolton, and latterly containing over 22,000 acres. The hamlet was formerly called Eccles with Moni- t homes, and is situate in the town- ship of Barton-upon -Irwell. Adam de Eccles is said to have held land here in the time of William II., and a John Eccles was Abbot of Whalley 140 years after its foundation (temp. Henry VI.). The church , which has undergone many restorations (twice within the last 20 years), is supposed to date from the year 1111, and is dedi- cated to the Virgin Ecclesia (the ch. probably giving the name to the place). Since the last restoration, when the lime- wash wns scraped off and a new chancel arch put in, the ch. .presents a greatly improved appearance. It was appropriated to the Abbot of Stan! aw, whose house was removed to Whalley. In the Bridgewater Chapel are the recumbent figures of Bichard Brere- ton. ofWorsley, and his wife Dorothy, with their infant son in swaddling clothes. She is attired in large ruffs round her neck and ankles. Dorothy afterwards married one of the Leghs, and it was by her will that the Worsley estate passed to Sir Thomas (afterwards Lord Chancellor) Eger- ton, and thence to the present owner. There are also monuments to the Dauntseys of Agecroft Hall (17th centy.), Bayley of Hope, Whittakers and Sergeants, and one to the Bev. Wm. Marsden, a late vicar. Bobert (brother of George) Stephenson is buried in the ch.-yd. The Bev. Thos. Williamson was Vicar of Eccles from December 1576 to about May 1606 : “He was an able writer and a good man, a sound scholar and of extensive reading.” Dr. John White, Chaplain in Ordi- nary to James I., was also vicar here. He wrote the 4 Way of the True Church,’ and other works, collected in 1624. The martyr John Bradford preached in Eccles ch. The colours of the Trafford old Volunteers are now suspended from the panelled roof of the chancel. Eccles church formerly possessed four chantries, viz. 1. St. Catherine’s, founded by Thomas del Bothe, of Barton, before 1368. This was extinguished in the 16th centy., and its site is marked by a chapel on the S. side. 2. The Bothe or Booth Chapel, also founded, in 1450, by a member of the same family, Law Bothe, D.D. 3. The Jesus Chapel, founded by William Bothe, D.D., 1460. It is on the N. side, and now called the Trafford Chapel, from its belonging to that family, who also claim pro- prietorship of the church porch. 4. The Holy Trinity Chantry, founded by Sir Geoffrey Massey, of Worsley, in the 15th centy. This is now called the Bridgewater Chapel. Some of the old church documents are very curious. 44 By a vestry order, dated Aug. 27, 1595, the church- wardens were empowered to appoint places in the church for the gentle- men of the parish, and for the vicar, and to place the rest of the pa- rishioners as were husbandmen and cottagers, as others of meaner estate and calling, having reference to their charges and payments to the church. Servants, boys, young wo- j Route 9. — Eccles. • 87 men, or children, not to presume into the upper places or pews; if they do, the churchwardens to re- move them to seats or standing room in the inferior places in the church. Seats high in the church were appointed to the wives of Eccles, in proportion to the sums paid by their husbands as church lay, beginning with 11 d. or above; next, 9 d. to 11^., Id. to 9 d., 5 d. to 7 d., 3 d. to 5 c/., 2d. to 3 d., and Id. to 2d. To all householding men paying Id. to 12d., seats on certain settles below those who pay 12d. a piece. Still lower to those paying Id., and lowest seats of all to old people living on benevolence.” — Baines. There is a curious legend about the tithes of Eccles, which in the reign of Henry VIII. belonged to Brandon, Duke of Suffolk. A cock- fight took place at Westminster, when the Duke fought a main with one of the Andertons of Lydiate-, the stakes to be the Eccles tithes. The Lancashire gentleman produced a magnificent duck-winged cock, ob- serving : — “ There is a jewel of England ! For a hundred in hand And a hundred in land, I’ll fight him against any cock in England.” He won the victory, and to this day duck-winged cocks are called “ An- derton jewels.” At the Eccles old vicarage, pulled down in 1871, died Mr. Huskis- son, M.P., who received mortal inju- ries on the opening of the Liverpool and Manchester Rly., 16th Sep- tember, 1830. Eccles was long famous for its festivals and sports. Bull-baiting survived its fellow brute-sport, bear- baiting, by a few years. The last bull-bait took place at the wakes of 1833. The cock-pit still stands, but is going (1 879 ) to give way to a To wn Hall. Horse-racing was in vogue down to 1856. The wakes were abolished in 1877. In Lancashire, Yorkshire, and Cheshire, they have long been an institution of some importance in the country districts, being generally kept on the anniver- sary of the patron saint, or the date of the ch. foundation . They were ori- ginal I y a religious observance, but,, according to Dugdale, the people “ fell to lecherie and songs, dancing, harping, piping, and also to glotony and sinne, and so turned holinesse to cursedness.” The commission appointed by Queen Elizabeth put down for a time all such frivolous vanities, but the publication of the ‘ Book of Sports,’ and the permission granted by King James I. at Hogh- ton Tower (Rte. 8), re-established them with more than the former importance and licence. Large sums were spent by the villagers in decora- tions and games. It is mentioned in a rare tract published in 1778, that at the festival called Gyot Ale, or Guising, held at marling, or manuring season, the Eccles in- habitants spent on one occasion 2242/., an enormous sum for those times. Each township vied with its neighbour as to which should be most extravagant, an ambition which frequently led to village broils and disturbances. Within the area, and near Patri- croft Stat., are the offices of Barton- upon-Irwell Poor Law Union, Rural Sanitary and School Attendance Committee. This union comprises the townships of Barton-upon Irwell, Worsley, Clifton, Stretford, Hoxton, and Urmson. The increase in the population between 1861 and 1871 was 62*25 per cent., a rate which has not diminished. The popula- tion of Eccles parish in 1776 was 8723; in 1871 it was 67,766. “ Eccles cakes ” have long been famous. There are two establish- ments at which these cakes are made, opposite to each other, ne ir the ch. gates. The sign of one reads : “ Bradburn s. The Old Ec- cles cake-maker. Never removed.” 88 Route 9 . — Redes — Worsley. The other runs thus : “ Birch's. The old-established Eccles cake- makers. Removed from the oppo- site side.” These two places turn out together 3 millions of cakes annually. Sixteen new churches have been built in the old parish since 1776. In the immediate locality are : St. Cathe- rine s, consecrated 1843, seats 600; Christ's Ch ., Patricroft, 1868, seats 600 ; St. Andrew s , Eccles, 1879, seats 800. Monton Ch ., founded out of the ejection of the Rev. E. Jones, vicar of Eccles, by the Act of Uniformity, was sacked in 1714 by a mob under Tom Lyddall. The congregation is now Unitarian, and a chaste new church, seating 600, built from designs by Mr. T. Worthington , ., and costing over 18,000Z., was opened in 1875. The Wesleyan Chapel, Eccles, was opened in 1876, and cost, with schools, 15,000Z. All Saints (R. C.), a splendid building, erected at the sole co^t of Sir Humphrey de Traf- ford, was opened in 1868. The Presbyterians, Baptists, Primitive Methodists, and other denominations have places of worship here. (The line westward from Eccles Stat. intersects the old glebe lands of the monks of Eccles, and the old grange, still known as Monks Hall , is existing. It is partly timber and plaster. After passing through va- rious hands, it was sold in 1853 to the Northern Building Society, and portioned out. It is now nearly covered with villa residences. On the rt. is Ellesmere Park, which is being rapidly built over with villas. Conveyances from Manchester to Eccles ; over 40 trains daily ; 2 lines of tramways, open cars running every 15 min.). There are many interesting old residences in the neighbourhood. Tt afford Park , on 1., is the seat of Sir Humphrey de Trafford, a Roman Catholic family, which has been seated here from before the Con- quest, and held direct and unin- terrupted possession for eight cen- turies; in fact, the pedigree com- mences with Randolphus de Traf- ford, in the time of Canute the Dane, 1030. The house is modern, but a portion of the gables of the old building is attached to it. 1 J m. farther on, on rt., is Swinton , a hamlet of the township of Worsley. The ch. (by Street) cost 17,0002. Near it are the Manchester Moral and Industrial Training Schools , in the Elizabethan style, built in 1845, at a cost of 70,00 )2. More to the rt. is Swinton Park , where there are a number of fine mansions. Swinton Moor , on which the village ch. and industrial school stand, w T as enclosed in 1685 ; it had been owned by the Knights Hospitallers of St. John, and the Barons of Rochdale. The highways from Manchester to Preston, and from Manchester to Leigh and Wigan, pass through here. 6 m. Worsley Stat. ( Inn : Bridge- water, in the village). For 1 m. before reaching the stat. the tra- veller gets a fine view on his 1. of Worsley Hall, the monument, ch., and village.. | m. before the stat. the line crosses the Roman road from Manchester to Wigan. The founder of the family of Worsley is said to have been a personage of the name of Elias at the time of the Conquest, of such gigantic stature that he was usually termed Elias gigas. He was the first Anglo-Norman who volunteered to join his personal friend, Duke Robert of Normandy, in the first Crusade. Elias is said to have, “fought many duels, combats, &c., for the loue of our Lord and Saviour Jesus Christ, and abtanied many uictor : es.” His death, most likely typical, was caused by a serpent in the island of Rhodes, where he was buried. The 2nd Abbot of Whalley was Helias de Workesley, 89 Boute 9 . — Worsley Hall : Church. who died in 1318, and is supposed to have been descended from Eliseus. The estates passed through various hands, until they came to Richard Brereton and Dorothy Legh, by whose will it passed to Sir Thomas (afterwards Lord Chancellor) Eger- ton, the friend of Milton, in whose honour Comus was written. His son was created Earl of Bridgewater. Scroope Egerton, the 4th Earl, was created Duke of Bridgewater, and was the first to entertain the idea of inland navigation, although it came to nothing in his time. But his second son, Francis, who became 3rd Duke of Bridgewater, was the one who made himself an undying name in connection with canal navi- gation. On his death, unmarried, in 1803, the title became extinct. The Earldom of Bridgewater went with the Ashridge estate to Gen. Egerton, while Worsley went to the Marquis of Stafford, afterwards Duke of Sutherland, with remainder to his second son, Lord Francis Leve- son Gower. He, on succeeding to the> estate, took the well-known name of Lord Francis Egerton, and was created Earl of Ellesmere and Viscount Brackley in 1846. His grandson is the present Earl. The will was coupled with the condition that the heir assumed the name of Egerton within 3 months of the Duke’s decease. The property was vested in the hands of trustees, and so remains. Worsley New Hall , the seat of the Earl of Ellesmere, built in 1840, is a large handsome structure, in Tran- sition style From it portions of 7 counties in England and Wales may be seen. Here are some splen- did paintings, including Landseer’s “ Return from Hawking,” which gives the likenesses of the 1st Earl of Ellesmere and his family. There are also some Roman relics from Campfield, Manchester, and some antiquities from Hulme Hall. Her Majesty the Queen visited Worsley Hall in 1851 and 1857, and the Prince and Princess of Wales in 1869. The Hall occupied by the Duke of Bridgewater stood between the New Hall and Worsley Old Hall . The latter is the seat of the Hon. A. Egerton, M.P. (son of the 1st Earl of Ellesmere, and Secretary to the Admiralty). It is ancient, of the magpie style, pretty and re- tired. It was the residence of several successive owners of Worsley, as the Masseys, Breretons, &c. A little to the W. is a Monument to the 1st E. of Ellesmere, built by public sub- scription. It is an octagonal shaft, 132 ft. high, with enriched base, designed by Driver and Webber. It is ascended by a spiral stair inside, and is open to the public, except on Sundays. It commands a very fine view, and will repay a climb. Booth Hall , J m. further, the seat of the old family of Booth, is men- tioned by Leland as the seat of Mr. Worsley. I m. E. of the Hall is Worsley Church , a beautiful structure. It was built at the sole cost of the 1st E. of Ellesmere, from designs by the late Sir G. G. Scott , with additions, for 20,000Z. ; seats 800, all free. It is the burial-place of the Ellesmere family. The ch. contains a life-like effigy of the founder (by Noble), in white marble, and a rich reredos to the memory of his dowager. The present vicar is the Rev. and Hon. the E. of Musgrave, eldest son of the Marquis of Normanby. The ceremony of crowning the May Queen is celebrated here with great display. There is a pretty timber court, schoolhouse, &c. In the work- yard is a clock which strikes thirteen at 1 o’clock. It is said the Duke came one day at noon to his men. and asked them how it was they did not resume their work at 1 as readily as leave it at 12. One man answered, “ 1 isn’t so good to hear as 12.” “ Just so,” said the Duke ; 90 Boute 9 . — Bridgewater Canal . and he had a clock made to strike 13. As being the centre from whence originated the celebrated Bridge- water Canal , Worst ey wilt ever be a locality of great interest. Although the first Duke obtained an act to commence a canal from Worst ey to the Irwell, it was never begun by him, and it remained for Francis, 3rd and last Duke, to commence a work which, for perseverance and singlehanded daring, has rarely, if ever, had its parallel. Smarting under the rupture of his engagement with the gay Duchess of Hamilton, because she would not give up the society of her sister, Countess of Coventry, upon whom some scandal rested, he re- turned to his Worsley estate, and called in John Gilbert, his steward, to see if they could devise the cutting of a canal by which the coals on the estate might be taken to Manchester. He therefore, in 1759, applied for and obtained an Act to make a canal between Worsley and Salford, and to extend it westward to the Mersey. The rising town of Manchester was equally interested with the Duke, for he bound himself not to charge more than 2s. 6e?. per ton freight for coals (whereas the old Mersey Com- pany charged 3s. 4c?.), and not to sell the coal at Manchester for more than 4c?. a hundred. At the outset a difficulty occurred, it having been proposed to descend from the colliery at Worsley to the Irwell by a series of levels which would have entailed a very expensive system of working. The Duke then called in the assistance of James Brindley, the engineer who, after making an “ ochilor servey or a ricconitoring,” advised that the canal should be carried on the same level over the Irwell. For this a second act was necessary, and obtained, and the canal was therefore taken across the Irwell at Barton by an aqueduct. “ A large basin was excavated at Worsley Mill, of sufficient capacity to contain a great many boats, and to serve as a head for the navigation. It is at Worsley Basin that the canal enters the bottom of the hill by a subterranean channel which extends for a great distance — con- necting the different workings of the mine, so that the coals can be readily transported in boats to their place of sale. It lies at the base of a cliff of sandstone, some hundred feet in height, overhung by luxuriant fo- liage. The barges, laden with coal, emerge from the river through the two low semicircular arches opening at the base of the rock, such being the entrances to the underground work- ings. The barges are narrow and long, each conveying about 10 tons of coal. They are drawn along the tunnels by means of staples fastened to the roof. When they are empty, and consequently higher in the water, they are so near the roof that the bargemen, lying on their backs, can propel them with their feet. The smaller aperture is the mouth of a canal of only half a mile in length, serving to prevent the ob- struction which would be caused by the ingress and egress of so many barges through a single passage. The other archway is the entrance of a wider channel, ex- tending nearly 6 m. in the direction of Bolton, from which various other canals diverge in different direc- tions. “ In Brindley’s time this subterra- nean canal, hewn out of the rock, was only about a mile in length, but it now extends to nearly 40 m. in all directions underground. When the tunnel passed through earth or coal, the arching was of brickwork — but when it passed through rock it was hewn out. This tunnel acts not only as a drain and water- feeder for the canal itself, but as a means of carrying the facilities of the navigation through the very | heart of the collieries.” — Smiles. 91 Boute 9 . — Kempnough — Tyldesley . The canal was sold in 1872 to the Bridgewater Navigation Company. A little to the 1. of the rly. is Kempnough , or Kempnall Hall , now cottages, a wood -and- plaster build- ing. It was till recently the pro- perty of Le Gendre Starkie, Esq., of Huntroyde, near Padiham, whose ancestor, Nicholas Starkie, lived here in 1578. (It now belongs to the E. of Ellesmere). Kempnall during his tenure became very notorious, on account of the demons that, it was believed, entered into and tormented his family for more than 2 years. First of all his two children, aged 9 and 10, were afflicted, and the father applied to John Hartley, a reputed con- juror, to give them relief. Pie, therefore, took up his abode there, and made himself so much at home that he refused to go when re- quested, and when Mr. Starkie finally got rid of him, five of his family were possessed of devils. Dr. Dee, the Warden of Man- chester, then advised godly preach- ing ; but for a long time the remedy was useless, the house being a perfect Bedlam, and the sick people blaspheming and abusing everybody who came near them. It at length required the presence of 30 godly people before the devils were expelled. Hartley was taken up and tried, when he confessed that the devils were sent by him, and was accordingly executed. 1 m. to the N. is Wardley Hall , a fine old quadrangular wood-and- plaster hall of the time of Edward VI., entered by an archway into a court. The hall is moated, and has a good oak roof, and the arms of the Downes, the former possessors, who succeeded the Tyldesleys, and were themselves succeeded by the 4th Earl Rivers, then by the 4th Earl Barrymore. It is now the property of the Earl of Ellesmere. On the stair there is a small locked recess, in which is a skull, said to have been that of Roger Downes. Many have been the attempts to change its position, either from carelessness or frolic, but such disturbances took place that the head was speedily brought back to its old quarters. The skull is still shown. Over the entrance to the quadrangle are the initials “ R. H. D. 1625. ’ In Roby’s * Lancashire Traditions ’ the story is told under the name of “ The Skull House.’’ 8 m. Ellenbrooh Stat. Between here and Worsley a branch line opens to Bolton : 200 yds. to 1. of Eliesbrook Stat. is the old chapel (rebuilt) founded by the monks of Eccles. It is a “donative,” the living being left by Dorothy Legh, on condition that it is not merged into the Established Church. On the high ground of Walkden Moor , 1J m. rt., is a beautiful memorial by Jackson to the dowager Coun- tess of Ellesmere, who died 1866. It is 50 ft. in length, and surmounted by a spire and cross. It is orna- mented by four statuettes of a Lan- cashire operative, a collier, and two factory girls, besides figures of Piety, Charity, Munificence, and Prudence. Here are the colliery and estate offices of the Bridgewater Trustees. 9 m. Tyldesley Jtjnc., from whence branches are given off N. to Bolton, S. to Kenyon Jung. The village of Tyldesley contains a handsome E. English ch. from designs by Smirke. Here was bom Sir Thomas Tyldesley, the famous leader of the Royalists in the Civil Wars, who received the honour of knighthood from Charles I. for his bravery in storming the bridge at Burton-on-Trent. He fell at Wigan Lane, August 25, 1651, in an action against the Parliamentary force under Lilburne. The family of Tyl- desiey, for practical purposes, is now extinct. The name is a very com- 92 Route 9 . — Choivbent — Bedford Leigh. moil one still in the locality. Orme- rod, the Cheshire historian, was born here. Clewortli Hall occupies the site of the ancient residence of the Starkies, and shared with Kempnall the notoriety occasioned by Hartley the wizard. The cotton-trade is the staple manufacture, the first mill being erected in Tyldesley in 1776. Mining, cotton and silk give em- ployment to one-half the popula- tion. There are several old family seats ; among others, Chaddock Hall , an ancient house of ihe Clowes family, and Garret Hall , a house of the Tylde^eys. 2 m. E. are Peel Hall (Harrison Blair, Esq.) and Kenyon Peel Hall , the seat of Lord Kenyon. The latter is a wood- and-plaster building with a stone gateway containing the inscription, “ Peace within these walls, Geo. Rigby, 1637.” The former house, known also as Yates Peel Hall, is a partially castellated mansion, con- sisting of a Centre and wings. Over the entrance hall are the arms of the Yates family, of whom was Sir Joseph Yates, Justice of the Common Pleas, 1770. To the S. of Tyldesley, near Astley, is Astley Hall , originally known as Dam House, and the ancient seat of the Mort family. 9J m. Ghowbent Slat., near which is Atherton , a little manufacturing town dependent on cotton mills and collieries. There is an old building called the Chanters. The Atherton family built an enormous house called Atherton Hall, but it was never finished, and eventually was taken down by Lord Lilford. Chowbent is famous for the memory of its fighting minister, Woods, who led eighty of Ms congregation into the N., and held the passage of the Kibble near Walton. He was ever afterwards known as Gen. Woods. 12 m. Chequerbent Stat. In the days of Queen Mary, one Ralph Holme, of Chequerbent, had a pre- sentment filed against him by the vicar of Dean for “ harbouring in his howse dyverse priests.” On rt. of rly. is Hulton Park (W. F. Hulton, Esq.), who is the 25th in descent that has possessed this estate from Blethyn de Hulton, temp. Henry II. The old hall lias disappeared, and the present house is modern, with a semicircular wing and portico. 14 m. Daubhill Stat. 15J m. Bolton Junc. (Rte. 7). [To Kenyon Junc. 5 m. On rt. Atherton Hall (W. Selby, Esq.) and Atherton Old Hall (J. P. Fletcher, Esq.). 3 m. Bedford Leigh Stat. On rt. is the manufacturing town of Leigh ( Inn : White Horse), containing some 10,000 inhabitants, but very little of interest except the ch., which is of Tudor date, and con- sists of nave, chancel, aisles, and 2 chantries or chapels, that of the Tyldesley s to the N., and the Athertons on the S. It was re- stored and partly rebuilt in 1873, at a cost of 10,000Z. “ Sir Thomas Tyldesley, the hero of the battle of Wigan Lane, was interred here in the Tyldesley Chapel, although there is no trace of his gravestone ; and it is said that James, Earl of Derby, on his way through Leigh to Bolton, previous to his execution, wished to visit the grave of his gallant companion in arms, but was denied that gratification by his military guard.” — Baines. Traces of the old moat of the parsonage are still visible. Amongst the customs of Leigh was the use of a kind of spiced ale called “ braggot” on Mid-Lent Sunday, after which the boys used to teaze the women on their way to church by liooking a piece of cloth on to their dresses. The neighbourhood abounds with old houses, such as Shuttleworth Route 10. — Manchester to Preston . 93 Hall , a farmhouse; Hope Car , where the moat is to be seen ; and Platt Fold , of the date of the 17th centy. Morleys Hall , between Bedford and Astley, was, in 1536, the seat of Sir William Leylande, to whose family Lelarrd the antiquary claimed affinity. He at all events paid a visit to Morleys, and de- scribed the house and gardens in a very glowing style. Tradition relates that the heiress of one of the Leylandes was shut up in her ped troops at the expense of his family, and commanded them at the. battle of Edge Hill. With indomitable zeal and courage he served at the sieges of Bolton and Lancaster. After the execution of the King, he rallied the Royalists in support of the cause of Prince Charles, and persevered amidst many discouragements, until, fight- ing at the head of his soldiers in the battle of Wigan Lane, he was shot by one of Lilburn s Roundheads.” — Halley. Myerscough is mentioned by some as the house in which the petition was presented in favour of the ‘ Book of Sports ’ to King James, when making his grand progress to Hoghton Tower. Charles II. also stopped here on his road from Pres- ton southwards. In the interior are an oak staircase and chimney-piece, carved in panels. About 3 m. rt. of Brock is Goos - nargh , where there is a hospital, founded in 1735 by Dr. William Bush ell, for decayed gentry of the townships of Preston, Euxton,Whit- tingham, Goosnargh, Fulwood, and Elston. The house, which is like any other gentleman’s house, con- tains 30 inmates. A very curious document is in existence, called the Book of the Twenty-four, or the Church-book of Goosnargh, which gives much interesting information as to the parochial life of the day. Near Goosnargh is Middleton Hall, now a farmhouse. It was origi- nally a seat of the Singletons, who were succeeded by the Rigby family, who, in their turn, ceased living at it about 80 years ago. Of this family was Colonel Rigbye, the besieger of Lathom House. At the head of the Brock, or the Bleasdale Fells, is Bleasdale Tower (W. J. Garnett, Esq.), and close by is the North Lan- cashire Reformatory School, the boys of which are occupied in reclaiming the moor. §lm.Garstang Stat. Between Brock and Garstang on the rt. is Claugliton Hall, the seat of W. F. Broekholes, Esq. The town of Garstang (Inns: Eagle and Child, Royal Oak) is situated about 1| m. to the L, on 153 Route 17 . — St. Michael' s-on-Wy re. the rt. bank of the Eiver Wyre, and although now an unimportant little place, it was brisk and thriving enough in the old coaching days. It was sufficiently important, more- over, to obtain a charter from Ed- ward II., which was subsequently confirmed by Charles II., who granted additional privileges. A paper-mill at Catterall, a small hamlet to the S. of the town, gives some employ- ment to the population. Occupation is found, too, in some cotton-mills at Calder Vale , a village 2J m. to the N.E. of the station. There is but little to see in the place except a fine bridge over the Wyre and the aqueduct which carries the Lancaster Canal across it. The former was built in lieu of an old one, erected by the Earl of Derby to maintain communication with Green- halgh Castle. A curious notice of Garstang cattle-market is preserved in some doggrel Latin verses by Drunken Barnaby : — „ “ Veni Garstang, ubi nata, Sunt armenta fronte lata, Veni Garstang, ubi male tntrans Forum Bestiale, Forte vacillando vico Hue et illuc cum amico, In juvencie dorsum rui Cujus cornu lsesus fui.” The 'parish ch ., curiously enough, is situated at least 1J m. S. of the town, not far from the confluence of the Calder with the Wyre, and its place in Garstang is supplied by a chapel of ease of modern erection. The old ch. (restored in 1868) con- sists of nave, aisles, and clerestory, chancel, tower, and chapel in the S. aisle. The E. window, of 5 lights, is remarkably good, and the W. windows of the aisles are also worth notice. The chancel contains some good carved oak stalls and a screen, shutting off the N. chancel-aisle, in which is placed the organ. The S. or Lady Chapel has a piscina and an oak roof, the beams of which have several Latin inscriptions. The S. chancel- aisle was the burying-place of the Banasters, and that of the N. of the Butlers of Kirkland, to one of whom there is a marble slab. There is also the effigy of a priest, in bad preservation. [A short branch rly. is thrown off at Garstang stat. to 8 m. Pilling, Originally it was intended that the line should be carried across the Wyre to Fleetwood, and so the north immediately connected with that seaport. But funds have been wanting to carry it beyond Pilling. It is a railway of even more primb tive construction than the one from Preston to Longridge. It is chiefly used by farmers. The trains are generally composed of one carriage and a few trucks, which are usually more than enough for the traffic. 1^ m. N.W. of Garstang are Natehy Hall and Bowers , both farm- houses. The latter contains a cu- rious “priest-hole/’ approached by winding stairs. Lower down the Wyre, at its junction with Brock, is the village of St. Michael’ s-on- Wyre, the ch. of which contains a chapel to the Butler ffimily, now extinct. It formerly contained the effigy of St. Catherine, the patron saint, which used to be brought out during hay- making time. St. Michael’s Hall , an antique farmhouse, was the seat of the Kirkbys and Longworths, old Fylde families. Still lower down the river is Rawcliffe Hall, a seat of the Wilson-ffrance family, and Out-Raw - cliff e, an old 17th-centy. mansion, modernised. Turnover Hall, the ancient seat of the Shuttleworths, and afterwards one of the mansions of the Westbys, is in this neighbour- hood. Between Garstang parish ch. and the town is Kirkland Hall, the old seat of the Butlers. The rly. crosses the Calder at the Garstang Stat., at a considerable elevation, and amidst very pretty scenery on both sides. Between the line and Gars- tang town are the scanty ruins of Greenhalgh Castle , which, according 154 Route 17. — Glasson — Overton . to Camden, “ was built by Thomas Stanley, the first Earl of Derby of that family, while he was under ap- prehension of danger from certain of the nobility outlawed in this county, whose estates had been given him by Henry VII., for they made several attempts upon him, fre- quently making inroads into his grounds, till at last these feuds were wisely quieted by the moderation of this excellent person/’ Later on, in the Civil War, Greenhalgh be- came an important situation, being garrisoned for the King by Ander- ton of Euxton. But at his death, the garrison being dispirited, sur- rendered the castle, and it was demolished by order of the Parlia- ment in 1649. Near Scorton Stat., 12 J m., the fells approach the rly., which here crosses the Wyre, on its way from its source in Wyresdale Fells — ** Arising but a rill at first from Wyresdale’s lap, Yet still receiving ail her strength from her full mother’s pap, As down to seaward she her serious course doth ply. Takes Calder coming in, to beare her com- pany.” Between Garstang and Scorton, on the right, is a shooting-box of Lord Bective’s, well situated on the hill side. Almost opposite it, in the valley, on the 1. is Woodacre Hall, now a farmhouse, formerly the dower- house of the Duchesses of Hamilton. Immediately to the rt. of Scorton stat., and in a line with each other, are the ch. and the Roman Catholic chapel, both modern and very hand- some buildings. Beautifully situ- ated on the hill above the village is Wyersdale Park, the seat of the late P. Ormrod, Esq., now the pro- perty of his widow ; 2§ m. on the 1. is Winmarleigh, House, the seat of Lord Winmarleigh. a modern build- ing by Paley of Lancaster. 16 m. Bay Horse Stat. On 1. are Clifton Hill (Mrs. Brockholes), Ellel Grange (G. T. R. Preston, Esq.), and Haycarr (W. B. Mortimer, Esq.). Near the Grange is seen the spire a chapel erected bv the late W. Preston, Esq., the interior of which is very elaborately though somewhat tawdrily decorated ; and 2 m. rt., overlooking the Wyre , is Wyreside (H. Garnett, Esq.). At 17 £ m. Galgate Stat. the river Conder is crossed — “ To Neptune lowting low, the chrystall Lon doth cease, And Conder comming in, conducts her by the hand, And lastly shee salutes the poynt of Sun- derland.” Drayton. On 1. are Ellel Hall (W. Ford, Esq.), and Ashton Hall , the beautiful seat of J. Chamberlain Starkie, Esq., which was formerly in the possession of the Dukes of Hamilton, through the marriage of James, Earl of Arran, with the heiress of Digby, Lord Gerard, in the reign of James II. It is of the date of the 15th and 16th cents., and has a large square tower at one end with turrets, battle- ments, and machicolations. The inte- rior contains a splendid baronial hall. Ashton is beautifully situated in an extensive park overlooking the mouth of the Lune and the Bay of Morecambe. At the point where the estuary of the Lune begins to narrow are the docks of Glasson , intended to serve as the port of Lancaster. There are two docks, one of which is 12 acres in extent, and will receive vessels of 400 tons. They communicate with the Lancas- ter Canal by a short branch which joins it at Galgate. A rly. is pro- jected from Lancaster to Glasson. Nearly opposite Glasson, on the W. shore of the Lune estuary, is Overton , the inhabitants of which petitioned that, as they were sur- rounded by the sea twice in 24 hours, they might have a minister of their own, instead of being obliged to go to Heysham, or the parson being 155 Route 17 . — Cocker sand Abbey. obliged to come from there. The ch. has a Norm, doorway, which is a triple recessed arch with zigzag moulding and square imposts. At the end of the neck of land on which Overton is situated is Sunderland , used as a bathing-place by the Lan- castrians. “ Sambo’s Grave ” is a large stone slab, with a brass let into it. The inscription states that there lies “ poor Sambo, a faithful negro, who (attending his master from the West indies) died on his arrival at the mouth of the river Lune, below Lancaster, about sixty years ago i.e. about 1736. 2 m. S. of Glasson, on the pen- insula formed by the mouths of the Lune and the Cocker, is the ruin of Cocker sand Abbey — “ Where Coker, a shy nymph that clerely seems to shun All popular applause, who from her chrys- tall head In Wyresdale, near where Wyre is by her fountain fed.” It at one time was of such im- portance as to be reckoned the third in dignity of the Lancashire mona- steries, and covered an acre of land. The remains chiefly consist of the octagonal chapter-house, used as the burial-place of the Daltons. A finely clustered column rises from the centre to support the roof. An amusing story is told by Fox of Cockerham Church, in the time of Queen Mary. The parishioners, wishing to renew their rood, which had been decayed, bargained with the carpenter to make a new one, and when it was finished they re- fused payment, because it was not like the old one, which “ was a well-favoured man,” but, instead, “ was the worst-favoured man they had ever set eyes on, gaping and grinning in such sort that their children were afraid to look him in the face or go near him.” Where- upon the carpenter summoned the churchwardens before the Mayor of Lancaster, who decided that he was entitled to payment, as having done the best he could; and if the pa- rishioners “did not like their god they could put a pair of horns upon him and he would make a capital devil.” At the period of the Dissolution, the lands of Cockersand passed to the Kitchens of Pilling, and thence by marriage to the Daltons of Thurn- ham one of the most powerful of the hundred of Lonsdale families, whose ancient seat of Thurnham is on the 1. During the Civil War, Thomas Dalton raised and equipped a regi- ment of cavalry for the king, at the head of which he marched south- wards, and died, fighting bravely, at Newbury. Thurnham Hall (Sir G. Dalton FitzGerald ) was refronted in the beginning of this centy. It contains some family pictures, and some excellent portraits by Lonsdale. It is a fine castellated building, and close by it is a very handsome Roman Catholic chapel, with a lofty spire. The rly. now passes 1. Aldcliffe Hall (E. Dawson, Esq.), the grounds of which are remarkable for an ex- traordinarily long embankment of 2000 yards, by which 160 acres were reclaimed from the sea. For this work Mr. Dawson received the Gold Medal of the Society of Arts in 1820. On the rt. is Ripley's Hospital , and on the 1 . The Albert Asylum for Idiots. Thi3 latter building pro- vides for the gratuitous education of idiots and imbeciles of all classes belonging to the counties of Lanca- shire, Yorkshire, Cheshire, West- moreland, Cumberland, Durham, and Northumberland, It is a handsome structure in the Domestic Gothic style, the architects being Messrs. Paley & Austin of Lancaster. Be- sides the asylum buildings there are several lodges and cottages, and also a complete set of farm buildings forming a separate industrial esta- blishment. The train now glides under the old castle walls of 156 Route 17 . — Lancaster: Castle . 21 \ m. Lancaster Jfnc. with the Midland Ely. to Settle, Ingleton, and Leeds. Lancaster ( Inns : County ; King’s Arms, old-fashioned and comfort- able, formerly containing some very tine furniture, which was dispersed at a sale in 1877; it is chronicled in one of Dickens’s stories ; Queen’s ; Commercial) was a Koman station, and possessed a camp on the lofty site of its present Castle in the 1st centy. The mound on which it stands is supposed to be partly artificial. The view from the Castle is one of great beauty; in front is the fine expanse of Morecambe Bay, with Morecambe town on its shores, the mountains of the Furness dis- trict, Cumberland and Westmore- land, and to the 1. the Lune winding through fertile meadows and a rich variegated country. “ After came the stony, shallow Lune, That to old Lancaster its name doth lend ” Spenser . Camden says : — “ The river Lone sees Lancaster on the S. side of it, the chief town of this county, which the inhabitants more truly call Loncaster, and the Scots Loncastell, from the river Lon. Both its name at this day and the river under it in a manner prove it to be the Lon- govicum, where, under the lieute- nant of Britain (as the Nobilia in- forms us) a company of the Longo- vicarians, who took that name from the place, kept garrison” Many Boman remains have been found at various times, and Lancaster is con- sidered by many antiquaries to be identical with Bremetonacis. In 1772 an altar was duir up, dedicated u to the Divine Shades by Lucius Julius Apolimaris, a Trever citizen, thirty years of age, a horseman of the Ala. ...” A sepulchre with remains was revealed in excavating a cellar in Church-st., and in 1774 a Boman tile manufactory at Queru- more. Several milliaria , or Boman mile-stones, formerly existed on the road to Over Burrow ; and between Lancaster and Cockerham, a number of sculptured heads and figures were turned up. About 1823 a tablet was discovered in Church-st., which records that the Ala Sebussiana, under the direction of Octavius Sa- binus, a man of illustrious rank and President of Britain, rebuilt a bath r and restored a basilica. In 1834 a milliary of Trajan was found on the Castle Hill. u Traces of the old earth-mounds are still visible in the field to the N.W. of the footpath from the ch. to the quay, though the remains of the wall have entirely disappeared. But, following the line which this fosse must have taken in encircling the hill towards the E., the wall is again found in a garden — a huge overhanging mass, exactly answering to Stukeley’s descrip- tion, and of a character unmistakc- ably Boman.” Lancaster was be- stowed by William the Conqueror on Boger of Poictou, who built or added to the castle in 1094 ; and it became the capital of this Norman noble, who was further enfeoffed bv William of 398 English manors and of the whole county of Lancashire. The town early acquired extensive privileges, among which were an assize of bread, a pillory, and a gal- lows. Henry, Earl of Derby, son of Henry, 3rd Earl of Lancaster, was created Duke of Lancaster, by a patent dated March 6th, 1351. In the reign of Edward III., Lanca- shire was raised to the dignity of a Palatinate, and he granted a char- ter to its capital in 1363. It became the residence of John of Gaunt. He built the magnificent gateway of the castle, but very little of the tower which is called by his name. This latter was probably buil t in the 13th centy. by Hubert de Burgh. The castle was for many years his occa- sional residence, and over the gate- way is an effigy of him, soulptured Route 1 7 . — Lancaster : Castle . 157 by a Scotch mason of the name of Nimmo, and placed there in 1822. The appearance of the Castle from the rly. is not very imposing, little of it being visible, except the modern assize-courts. It should be viewed from the E. side, where its grand proportions are very conspicuous. The terrace-walk, a stone pavement carried nearly round the castle- walls, forms a pleasant promenade with a glorious view. Outside the castle, and near the ch.-yard, is a spot where the gallows used to be erected for executions. One of the former chaplains of the gaol is said to have attended no less than 170 criminals to the scaffold. Among the notable prisoners which the cas- tle has had are John Paslew, last Abbot of Whalley, in 1586, on a charge of high treason for taking part in the rebellion of “ The Pilgri- mage of Grace and in 1554, George Marsh, who was burnt at Chester, the year after, for refusing to conform to the Roman Catholic religion. The famous trial of the Lan- cashire witches in August 1612, was also held here. The gateway tower is flanked by 2 octagonal turrets, 66 ft. high, surmounted by watch towers. This is, perhaps, the finest part of the building. There are altogether 4 towers — the Gateway Tower ; the Lungess Tower, or Great Norman Keep, at the top of which is a turret called John of Gaunt’s Chair ; the original Norman windows still exist in the lower part, but the upper portion was rebuilt by Queen Eliza- beth. Part of the interior is used as a chapel, the rest as work- rooms and dormitories; Adrian’s Tower, which is now cased over, and the Well Tower, the foun- dations of which are ascribed to Constantine Chlorus in 305. Two stories of dungeons are beneath the ground. The Dungeon Tower, built on Roman foundations, was de- molished in 1818, to make way for the Penitentiary. The Gateway Tower contains 8 large rooms and several small ones : the Constable’ s- room, the Smugglers' -room, and the “ Pin-box,” in which Henry IV. is said to have given audience to the King of Scotland and the ambassa- dors of France. On entering the quadrangle, the modern character of the greater part of the building is apparent. There are the assize- courts, gaol, and apartments for the officers. The walls of the great tower or keep are 10 ft. thick, and of immense strength. The interior is occupied by the prison chapel. The assize-courts are spacious and hand- some ; but, since the division of the county and the consequent transfer of the greater portion of its legal business to Liverpool and Man- chester, the assizes, which formerly occupied a fortnight or 3 weeks, now seldom extend beyond 3 days. In the Crown Court, opened in 1796, the Judge’s Chair is surmount- ed by some richly carved woodwork, and by a large painting of George III. on horseback, by Northcote. At the back of the dock in this court is to be seen the “holdfast,” into which were put the left hands of criminals who had been sentenced to be burned in the hand, the punish- ment being inflicted in open court. The NisiPrius Court, opened in 1798, is a larger and more imposing struc- ture, the ceiling being of open stone- work, supported by elegant clustered columns. The 2 pictures were pre- sented by the late Sir Robert Peel — one of Colonel Stanley, the other of John Blaekburne, Esq., former re- presentatives of Lancashire in Par- liament. The castle was besieged and taken in the Civil Wars by both sides, and on the S.W. side of the town maybe seen remains of the trenches, and of the batteries for breaching the walls. In November 1745 the Pretender entered Lancas- ter at the head of his Highlanders, marching on foot to encourage his followers. In the following month 158 Route 17 . — Lancaster : Churches. they were in full retreat, only stay- | ing a night at Lancaster. Her Majesty the Queen visited Lancaster Castle in 1851, and ascended to the top of “ John of Gaunt’s chair,” the doorway in the turret being made for this purpose and bearing the initials and date, “ V. R. 1851. ’ The parish ch. ( S . Mary s') on the summit of the hill (restored by Paley ) was built on the site of a Benedictine priory, for the most part of the date of the 15th centy. Some portion of it, however, is as early as the 13th centy. The aisles are divided from the body of the ch. by 8 Pointed arches, the capitals of the supporting pillars being richly moulded. The plan is that of a complete parallelogram, eight bays in length. The chancel, the ar- cades of which are particularly fine, is of the same length as the nave. Its oak stalls, which are said to have been brought from Cockersand Ab- bey, but more likely from Furness, are of the finest work, and for the date (Early Decorated) probably un- equalled. The tower was rebuilt in 1759. There is a brass to the memory of Thomas Coveil, who was governor of the castle for 48 years, with an inscription, a curious liter- ary composition. There are three good windows by Clayton and Bell, the other painted glass being of the worst possible type. Amongst the monuments is one, by Boubilliac , to William Stratford, LL.D. ; and an- other to the memory of Sir Samuel Eyre, one of the judges of the Court of King’s Bench in the reign of William III. A very rare cross, with a Runic inscription, was dug up in the ch.- yard ; making the 5th of that cha- racter known in Great Britain. Christ Church was erected and endowed by Samuel Gregson, Esq., one of the members of the town, and was opened in 1859. Mr. Gregson also erected the baths and wash- houses on the Green Area. St. Peter's Roman Catholic ch. in the East road, is a fine building erected in 1859, from designs by Faley, at a cost of 15,000Z. The interior is unusually spacious and striking. The style is Geom.-Goth. The groined wood ceiling of the chancel is decorated with gold and colours. The high altar and the Lady Chapel altar are composed of various coloured marbles. The 3 E. windows are of stained glass, by Hardman, the centre one repre- senting the Ascension — the 1. St. Peter standing in the Gateway of Heaven, and receiving the keys — that on the rt. St. Paul caught up to the third Heaven, and his Con- version on the way to Damascus. The tower and spire are 240 ft. in height. On the hill above it is the Gram- mar School , a Tudor modern build- ing, over the door of which is a statuette of Her Majesty as Duchess of Lancaster. The original build- ing was a Jacobean structure, and stood on the western side of the parish church. Here were educated Dr. Whewell and Professor Owen, both natives of the town. The visitor should ascend to the top of the hill for the sake of the view , which is one of the most extensive to be found in this country on a clear day. The Isle of Man and the mountains of Wales can be seen distinctly. N. are the Cumberland and Westmoreland hills; W. are Morecombe Bay and the Irish Sea ; S. stretches the wide plain of the Fylde district ; E. are Ingleborough — the highest mountain in York- shire, Clougha and the Wyresdale Fells. At the back is the Lunatic Asylum , a very fine and commodious establishment, built to holdover 1000 patients. The Town Hall is a heavy edifice, built of freestone, and con- tains portraits of Geo. III., the Duke of York, Mr. Pitt, and Lord Nelson ; Route 17 . — Lancaster : Excursions . 159 the two latter were painted by Lons- dale, and presented by him to his native town. The other public buildings are not important. Ripley’s Hospital , which forms a prominent object on ap- proaching the city and close to the rly. on rt., was erected for the main- tenance and education of orphans, by the widow of Thomas Ripley, Esq., a native of Lancaster and a Liverpool merchant, who had devoted 100,000/. for the purpose. It is a noble build- ing of the Early Pointed style of the 12th centy., and is intended for the education of 150 boys and 150 girls. The clock-tower in the centre is 110 ft. in height. At Horseshoe Corner, in the town, is a horseshoe fixed in the pave- ment, which is renewed at certain intervals. The custom is^. supposed to have originated in the time of John of Gaunt, who once rode into the town upon a charger which lost its shoe at this place. It was taken up and fixed in the middle of the street, and a new one has been re- gularly placed there every 7th year, at the expense of the townsmen who reside near the spot. As a seaport, Lancaster was once of greater im- portance than Liverpool, and carried on a considerable trade with the West Indies, Archangel, and the Baltic; but the close of the last centy. saw a great change for the worse. When Charles I. levied ship-money, Lancaster was assessed at 30/., Liverpool at 15/., and Pres- ton at 20/., for fitting out a ship of 400 tons. The population has in- creased of late years — silk thread, railway waggon-making, cabinet- making, cocoa-matting, table baize, and cotton spinning, constitute the principal industries, being the main sources of trade. The quiet streets present, a great contrast to the stir and bustle of most of the other Lan- cashire towns. Lancaster, however, stands high in sanitary improve- ments, and particularly in that of water supply, which is brought from the Abbeystead, Lea, Dunkenshaw, and Tarnbrook Fells, and is the purest supplied to any town in England. It first sent representa- tives to Parliament in 1293, but ceased in 1359 ; resumed its privi- leges in 1547, and continued them until 1868, when it was disfranchised for general and habitual corruption. Rail from Lancaster, by London and North- Western, to Preston, 21 £ m. ; Warrington, 48£ m. ; London, 231 m. ; Carnforth, m. ; Kendal, 21 m. ; Carlisle, 69J m. ; Winder- mere, 29.J m. By Furness Rly. to Grange, 15f m. ; Ulverston, 25^ m. ; Furness Abbey, 3 If m. ; Dalton, 30 m. ; Barrow, 35 m. By Midland , to Morecambe, 3£m. ; Halton, 2 J m. ; Hornby, 8 m. ; Settle, 23J m. ; Leeds, 65£ m. Excursions to Quernmore Park, 3 m. (Rte. 18) ; Morecambe and Heys- ham, 5 m. (Rte. 18) ; Thurnham and Glasson Docks (from Gal- gate Stat.); over the Fells to the head of Wyresdale and the Trough of Bolland, 11 m., the road passes through wild country, and over barren moss about 1000 ft. above the level of the sea ; the views along the road are beautiful and extensive ; White well, 16£ m. ; Clitheroe (Rte. 7), 25^ m. From the Castle Stat. the train glides over the Lune and the Mid- land Rly., having a fine view on rt. up the river towards Halton and Caton, with (rt.) the aqueduct of the Lancaster and Kendal canal. At 3 m. Hest Bank Junc., a short branch comes in from More- cambe, or rather Poulton (Rte. 18). The line here passes close to the shores of the bay, which at low water presents an enormous expanse of sand. Up to the time of the opening of the Furness rly. in 1857 a coach, called the Over Sands coach, daily plied from Lancaster 160 Route 1 7 . — Bolton-le- Sands — Carnforth . via Hestbank to Ulverston (Rte. 19). 4 m. Bolton-1 e-Sands Stat. The village on rt. is a favourite resi- dence with visitors who seek great quiet and beautiful air. The ch. consists of nave, side aisle, modern chancel, and fine old tower, and con- tains some modern stained glass. 2 m. S. of Bolton is a curious cavern called Dunald Mill Hole , in the township of Nether Kellet. A brook falls in, with several cascades, and emerges again at Carnforth. Its underground course is about 2J m., during which it reappears once at Gingle Pot Hole near Over Kellet. 6 1 m. Carnforth Jfnc. At this spot a population has arisen, brought together by the erection of the Carnforth furnaces for the smelting of Lancashire haematite ore. Their locality was, of course, determined by the meeting of several rlys., viz., the London and North- Western to north and south, the Midland Rly. from Carnforth to Wennington and Leeds, and the Furness Rly. to Ulverston and Barrow (Rte. 19). A considerable portion of the township has been at various times washed away by the tide. On the rt., 2 m., is the village of Over Kellet , adjoining which are Hall Garth (Aylmer Ains- lie, Esq.), and Capernwray Hall (G. B. H. Marton, Esq.). The Old Hall is now a farmhouse. The Martons claim as their ancestor Paganus de Marton, Lord of East and West Marton in Craven. In the Park, which overlooks the charming scenery of the Keer, is a private chapel. Leaving Carnforth, on 1. is the village of Warton, situated under the limestone hills of Warton Crag, a spot on which, called the Bride's Chair , used to be frequented by young women before the ceremony of matrimony. The Three Breeders , or Bredors, are three rocking stones about 40 ft. apart. There are also earthworks on the N. side of War- ton Crag, and a cave, supposed in old times to have been the resort of fairies. The ch. is of the date of the 14th and 15th centy., and con- tains some sedilia and an early Norm, or Saxon font lined with leadwork inside. The rectory adjoining the ch. is incorporated with the build- ings of the ancient one of the time of Henry VIII., of which a gable and some arches remain. There is a grammar school in Warton, founded by Matthew Hutton, successively Bishop of Coventry, Durham, and Archbishop of York in 1594. In the township were born Sir Thomas Kytson, a rich merchant in the reign of Henry VIII., and Lucas the historian of the parish. Further on (1.) is Hyning (W. B. Bolden, Esq.), and the village of Yealand Conyers , at the back of which are Morecambe Lodge (C. D. Ford, Esq.), and Leighton Hall , the seat of R. T. Gillow, Esq. In early times it was held by Adam de Avranches, whose heiress married Adam de Redman of Yealand in the reign of Edward I. At Bur ton-in- Kendal Stat., 1 1 \ m., the rly. enters the county of West- moreland. 14£ m. Milnthorpe Stat . 19 m. Oxenholme Jijnc. for Kendal (Handbook for the Lakes'), 161 Route 18 . — Morcccimbe to Carnforth Junction. ROUTE 18. NIORECAMBE TO .'CARNFORTH JUNCTION, BY WENNINGTON. ( Midland Railway.) By means of this section of the Midland system, Lancashire is brought into direct communication with the manufacturing towns of Yorkshire, and a large and pictu- resque agricultural district in North Lancashire and North-West York- shire is opened up. Morecamhe , originally called Poul- ton-le-Sands, is a pleasant water- ing place, although it lias, like Black- pool, its occasional avalanches of excursionists. It commands exceed- ingly beautiful views of the Bay and the Lake Hills, and an un- failing supply of fresh sea-breeze. ( Hotels ; Midland; Imperial. Inns: King’s Arms, West View.) A line of steamers runs between Morecamhe and Portrush weekly. There are Winter Gardens, with an unusually pretty hall and Aqua- rium, also Summer Gardens be- tween Morecamhe and Heysham, and a Pier from which extensive views of the Lake Mountains can be seen. The place is rapidly ex- tending. There is a very charming walk along the shore to Heysham , 2J m., a most picturesque little vil- lage situated on a wooded rocky promontory, which, compared with the flat and level country round [Lancashire.'] it, looks higher than it really is. Enormous quantities of mussels and herrings are caught in the fisheries adjoining. Enclosed within the carefully kept churchyard are the minute church, the remains of the oratory of Heysham, and a number of stone coffins, for the inspection of which visitors are requested to obtain a penny ticket at the clerk's house near the gate. This money goes to the general expenses of taking care of the ruins, although it is doubtful how far the right extends of charging a fee for entering the ch.-yard. The Norm.c/i. of St. Patrick, which was restored in 1864, is of very small dimensions, and consists of nave, with a double aisle, chaiicel, and north porch. The W. window is of stained glass, and by the altar is a brass of the date 1670, and an old tomb in the N. aisle. The nave occupies the area of an ancient Saxon ch. Traces of this building are dis- cernible in the remains of a W. doorway, and in the chancel arch with its curious cabled impost mouldings, and in building the new N. aisle a doorway and wail, of undoubted Saxon architecture, were discovered.” The new Ch. of St. Lawrence ( Paley and Austin) was consecrated in 1878. The Oratory, which stands on the rock overlooking the ch., was only 13 ft. 6 in. by 9 ft., and is said to have been erected for the accom- modation of the monks, whose duty it was to pray for mariners ; it obtained such a reputation for sanctity, that burial within the precincts was greatly sought after. The remains consist of 3 of the 4 walls, an arch of Saxon date, and rock tombs or stone coffins: Heys- ham is rather a favourite resort in summer time. Adjoining the village are Heysham Hall (F. W, Grafton, Esq.), and Heysham Tower (W. Bennett, Esq.). From Morecamhe a short branch M 162 Boute 18 . — Halt on — Quernmore. of 2 m. runs up to Hest Bank, I to join the London and North- Western. The Midland Ely. to Lancaster runs underneath the latter, and by the side of the river, which it crosses to the Green Ayre Stat ., at Lan- caster, where a branch runs in from the Castle stat. It then proceeds up the rt. bank of the river, crossing under the aqueduct (a very tine specimen of the end of the last centy.) of the Lancaster and Kendal Canal to 2J m. Holton Stat The village, with its church, stands on the 1., embowered in trees, as are also the Bectorv (Eev. S. Hastings), Hatton Hall (J. Birkbeck, Esq.), and Beaumont Ball. The ch., with the exception of the ancient western tower (Perp.), was rebuilt in 1877 from designs by Paley and Austin. That the original ch. was of great antiquity is proved by the dis- covery of a capital and other carved stones of a style of architecture nearly 300 years anterior to the Norman Conquest. These remains were built, at the restoration of the present ch., into the walls of the S. porch. It is probable that this ch. fell into decay, and that another smaller one was erected some years after the Conquest. A cross, which may be ascribed to the 7th centy., was dis- covered, and is now used as a sun- dial. Halton Hall, one of the most beautifully situated mansions in the north of England, was built by one of the last of the Carus family, on the site of the ancient manor-house of the Dacres. A Bom an altar, which was discovered in the ch. -yard here in 1794, was built into a wall of one of the rooms. A chased silver cup was also found about the same time on Halton Moor, contain- ing 860 silver pennies, 6 pieces of gold, and a silver torque. Halton is one of the 38 manors in the Domesday Book. On rt., 2f m., is Quernmore Park , the seat of W. Garnett, Esq. The house is quadrangular, from designs by Harrison , and is beautifully situated in a considerable park, commanding a fine view up the vale of Lune towards Hornby. At the back are the Fells of Littledale. Quernmore was disforested by Act of Parliament in 1811. u The name has, in all probability, been de- rived from the stone which is found here, called Hungerstone, full of hard, flinty pebbles, and similar to ancient Koman querns, whereof small millstones were for- merly made. This conjecture seems to be confirmed by the discovery of several querns recently dug up in the neighbourhood ” — Burke. The Park contains much pictu- resque scenery, especially at one spot, called “The Knotts.” The poet Gray, in a letter to Dr. War- ton, describes the view from the road looking up towards Caton, saying that “ every feature which constitutes a perfect landscape of the extensive sort is here not only boldly marked but also in its best position.” Quernmore Church was built in beautiful Dec. style, by Mr. Garnett, from designs by Paley. A curious history is attached to the stained glass E. window, which was ordered for, and sent out to, the English church at Cannes. But the vessel in which it sailed foundered near Marseilles, and a new one was sent for to England. In the mean- time a Greek merchant bought the wreck of the first vessel, and found in it the window, none the worse for its submerging. It was then sold by auction at Marseilles, and bought by Mr. G arnett for his church at Quernmore. The course of the rly. up the river-side is very charming, smooth reaches alternating with rapids, the 163 JRoute 18 .- wooded banks in many places over- hanging the water’s edge — “ As Lon comes ambling on from Westmore- land, when first Arising from her head, amongst the moun- tains nurst By many a pretty spring, that howerly getting strength, Arriving in her course in Lancashire at length, To Lonsdale shows herselfe, and lovingly doth play With her dear daughter Dale.” — Drayton. After leaving Halton, the line crosses and recrosses a bend of the Lune, within which is the Hermit- age (J. Sharp, Esq.), to 4| m. Caton Stat. The village is on rt., near the junction of the Artie Beck with the Lune and nestling under Littledale Eell. The ch., with the exception of the tower, has been rebuilt. In 1803 some Korean antiquities were found here, including a pillar with an inscription to the Emperor Adrian and a milliarium. On rt. are Escowbeck (J. Greg, Esq.) and Gresgarth Hall (T. G. Edmondson, Esq.). In the grounds of the latter is Raven scar, a favourite place for Lancaster pic-nics. On 1. is Halton Park (A. Greg, Esq.). Pass rt. the village of Claughton , where is the old Mall, the seat of the Croft family in the 15th centy. It possesses a gateway with oriel window of the time of Henry VII., and a terrace with two towers, of a later date — probably Charles I. The ch., a restoration of a very ancient one, was built in 1815, and contains the oldest dated bell in the kingdom (1296 ) with a Longobardic inscription. In a romantic glen behind Claughton ch. is a beautiful waterfall, little known except to residents in the district. The water descends without a break about 30 ft. 9 m. Hornby Stat. (Inn: Castle). Few villages are situated more prettily. The river Wenning, whose — Hornby . stream has just been increased by the joint waters of the Hyndburn and the Roeburn, flows into the Lune a little to the W., while the wooded Park and the noble turrets of Hornby Castle form a superb background. The Castle (W. Foster, Esq.) has an historic celebrity, and is believed by anti- quaries to occupy the site of a Roman villa, as coins and orna- ments have been found here in excavating. Nicholas Montbegon, a protege of Roger de Poitou, was the first to. perceive the value of the situation, and he accordingly erected a fortress here ; which, after many changes of ownership by the De Burghs, the Nevills, and the Har- ringtons, at last came into the pos- session of Sir Edward Stanley, the fifth son of the first Earl of Derby, who for his prowess at the battle of Flodden Field was created Baron Monteagle by Henry VIII. He it was who built the present noble building, although it has undergone much restoration and alteration at the hands of the late owner, Mr. Pudsey Dawson. Sir Edward Stan- ley, however great was his renown as a warrior, was not held in such good reputation in other respects, for it was generally asserted that he was a freethinker and that he dabbled in the black art. People went so far as to say that he had obtained Hornby through a partici- pation in the poisoning of Sir John Harrington, into whose family he had married. During the Civil War, Hornby was garrisoned by the Royalists, and considered to be impregnable, being deemed from its situation inaccessible on three sides. Nevertheless, Col. Assheton, who commanded the Parliamentary forces, while making an apparent attack on the fourth side, detached a party, under the guidance of a deserter, who, climbing up the pre- cipice, made an entry through one of the windows and captured the m 2 164 Route 18 . — Melting * Castle, which was ordered by the Parliament to be “ defaced, dis- mantled, and rendered defenceless.” Of late years Hornby has passed by purchase to various owners. The only ancient part of the castle now standing is the square tower or keep built by Sir E. Stanley, and which bears his motto and name, “ Glav et Gant. E. Stanley,” on the north side. Great improve- ments are now being carried out in the castle. The ch. is a singular- looking building, with an octagonal tower, set diagonally upon an oc- tagonal base. This, with the chan- cel, was built by Lord Monteagle, who is said to have been converted from his materialistic views by the parson of Slaidburn, Hugh Parker. In the interior is a monument to Dr. Lingard, the historian, who was officiating minister at the Roman Catholic chapel here; and in the ch.-yd. is a monolith with rudely sculptured sides. A farmhouse on the banks of the Lune marks the site of Hornby Priory, supposed to have been founded by .Roger de Montbegon ; it was a cell of St. John of Croxton Keyrial in Leicestershire. The order was Premonstratensian. 10 m. The village of Wray is on rt. at the confluence of the Hindburn with the Roeburn, about a mile above their junction with the Wenning. The valleys of the Hind- burn and Roeburn above Wray are noted for the beauty of their scenery. The mountains of Whernside, Ingle- borough, and Benygant stand on the N.E., and the rivers run through richly wooded ravines very similar to those in North Wales. The upper part of the Hindburn Dale is bleak and bare, and the line of the Roman road from Ribchester to Burrow can be clearly traced on the side of the fell. In the millstone grit in this locality there are some thin seams of coal — there is also a silk-mill in the village. ' — Tliurland Castle . At 12 m. Wennington Juno, the Midland branch from Carnforth falls in on the 1., and the rly. di- rectly afterwards enters Yorkshire. [The tourist who is anxious to explore this remote corner of Lan- cashire should return by the Carn- forth line. On leaving the junc- tion is Wennington Hall (W. A. F. Saunders, Esq.). 2 m. Melting Stat. The ch ., of Perp. date, consists of nave, chancel, aisles, porch, and a chantry called the Morley Chapel. It contains an un- usual number of stained glass win- dows, a hagioscope, and a mutilated slab supposed to mark the resting- place of Lord Monteagle, his wife and children The altar is on a much higher level than the body of the ch., owing to situation of the building on sloping ground. On the 1. is Storrs Hall. To the rt. is Wrayton Hall ( J. G. Burrows, Esq.), very prettily situated on the 1. bank of the Greta, a little above its junction with the Lune. On the opposite bank is Tliurland Castle , one of the few old moated houses of Lancashire. It has been destroyed lately by fire, but is about to be rebuilt from designs by Messrs. Paley and Austin. Ever since the Norman Conquest and the arrival of Roger de Poitou, a fortress existed at Thurland for the purpose of over- awing the wild borderers. In the 16th centy. it was the residence of Sir Brian Tunstall, the “ stainless knight ” of Flodden ; and of the same family was Cuthbert Tunstall, Bishop of Durham, the only pre- late who refused to acknowledge the Act of Supremacy put forth by Henry VIII. Previous to the Civil War the Tunstall family had suf- fered so much from fines and se- questrations that they were com- pelled to alienate most of their estates, and Thurland then came into the possession of Sir John G irlington, a staunch Catholic, who 165 Route 19 . — Carnforth to Barrow . defended it on the Royalist side against the Parliamentary forces under Col. Assheton. But it soon surrendered, and the Puritans cap- tured “ much money and plate, with many disaffected ladies and gentle- men.” Subsequently Sir John again took possession, on which Col. Rigby marched hither and ordered the place to be dismantled. The Castle was eventually rebuilt from designs by Sir Jeffrey Wyatt. At the back of the park is Tunstall , the ch. of which is of late Perp., and contains a mutilated effigy, be- lieved to be that of Sir Thomas Tunstall, the builder of Thur- land, and monuments to the family of Fenwick, whose seat of Burrow Hall (Mrs. Fenwick) is 1J m. N. on the 1. bank of the Lune. The village of Burrow or Over Burrow shows traces of its having been a Roman encampment from its position, and from the tes- selated pavements and coins found here at various times. It is con- sidered by some antiquaries to be identical with Bremetonacis, though it is more likely that that station was at Lancaster. Mr. Rauth- mell, in 1746, discovered that on the eastern and southern sides the ramparts were quite visible, and he describes an altar dedicated toMagon by a Roman lady on the recovery of her health. To the E. of Over Burrow was a castrum festivum, and on the side of the road to Lancaster a milliare or Roman milestone was found. 2}j m. further N. is Kirkby Lonsdale. (See Handbook for West- moreland.') Crossing the Lune, the traveller reaches, 3 m., Arkholme Stat. In the village the inhabitants used to be principally engaged in the making of hampers. On 1. is Storrs Hall (F. F. Pearson, Esq.), and further S. the village of Gressingham , the church of which contains a Norm, doorway, one of the finest specimens of late Norman (almost Early En- glish) in this part of the county. The line then passes Gapernwray , the seat of G. B. H. Marton, Esq. (Rte. 17). 6 m. Borwick Stat. Berwick Hall, built in 1559, with a “peel” at- tached to one end, was formerly the property of the He Borwicks, and then of the Bindlosses, whose arms used to be over the fireplace. A curious “ priest-hole ” used to be seen in one of the rooms, by which the fugitive suddenly disappeared on pressing the floor. Charles II. once stopped the night here, sharing the hospitality of Sir Robert Bind- loss. 8jm. Carnforth Junc. (Rte. 19).] ROUTE 19. CARNFORTH TO BARROW, BY UL- VERSTON AND FURNESS ABBEY. The Furness district, formerly the boundary between the kingdoms of England and Scotland, is most con- veniently approached from Lancaster by the Furness Rly., and the tourist to the Lakes is strongly recom- mended to visit this district first. The tract called Furness, mentioned in Domesday as Hougunai or the Hill, is supposed to be the modern Walney, and is bounded on the W. by the river Duddon, on the N. by Cumberland, on the E. by West- moreland, and on the S. by the sea. The mountain of Black Combe is a noble termination to its S. boun- dary. “ The tract called 4 Fur- 166 'Route 19. — Morecambe Ray. ness Fell/ ” says Camden, u is all mountains and high rocks, among which the ancient Britons lived, securely relying on those natural fastnesses, which, however, were not impregnable to the Saxon conqueror, for that the Britons lived here in the 228th year after the first arrival of the Saxons in the S. part of the island is proved by the curious his- torical fact, that a king of the Northumbrians gave to St. Cuthbert the land called Cartmel and all the Britons on it , as is related in his life. This district was long re- nowned for the wealthy and magni- ficent Abbey of Furness and its two priories of Cartmel and Conishead.” Morecambe Bay , along the north shore of which the rly. to TJlverston is carried, receives the waters of the Lune, the Keer, the Kent, the Win- ster, and the Leven, and is en- vironed by scenery of singular beauty. The irregular and indented shores are diversified by numerous vales, parks, woods sloping to the water’s edge, interesting old towns, and picturesque villages. At low water the sands form a plain of great extent, which in days previous to the rly. was traversed daily by travellers and even by a coach which ran between Lancaster and Ulver- ston, and was called the “ Over- sands ” coach. This old route began at Hest Bank , and the track was marked by branches of trees, called brogs, stuck in the sand. On reach- ing Kent’s Bank the coach travelled for a few miles on the Cartmel shore, and then crossed the estuary of the Leven to TJlverston. The construction of the rly. in 1857 across the bend of Morecambe Bay, for a distance of 8 m., partly on solid embankments, and partly on iron viaducts, is one of the most re- markable achievements of modern engineering science. The bay ex- tends about 17 m. inland from its point of embouchure in the Irish Channel, and is of an average breadth of 10 m. Towards the bend of the bay the waters shoal very much, and an immense extent of sand and allu- vial mud is left high and dry at low water. Many have been the hair- breadth escapes that occurred in the crossing. Nor did travellers always escape the perils of the journey. The registers of the parish of Cartmel up to this year show that not fewer than 145 persons have been buried in its ch.-yard, who were drowned in attempting to cross the sand. These are independent of similar burials in the ch.-yard of adjacent parishes on both sides the bay. In the spring of 1846, a party of 9 young men and women returning from the hiring fair at Ulverstone, were overtaken by the advancing tide, and every one of them perished. The principal danger arises from the treacherous nature of the sands, and their constant shifting during the freshes which occur in the rivers flowing into the bend of the bay. A guide was appointed by the Government at the noble salary of 12 1. a year, whose duty it was to be ready at low water to point out the track, and particularly where the river Keer runs in, the danger of the river being sufficiently illus- trated by the old adage, “ The Kent and the Keer Have parted many a good man and his meer (mare).” The first project of embanking the Lancaster sands was proposed by Mr. Housman at a cost of 200,0001; but, though he had the encouragement of the Duke of Bridgewater, it came to nothing. Subsequently, in 1887, Stephenson recommended the construction of a rly. from Poulton to Humphrey Head, on the opposite coast, as part of a west coast line to Scotland. He proposed to carry the road across the sand in a segment of a circle of 5 m. His design was to drive piles for the whole length, and 167 'Route 19 . — Railway Embankment. form a solid fence of stone blocks on the land side of the piles, for the purpose of retaining the sand and silt brought down by the rivers from the interior. It was calculated that the value of the 40,000 acres of rich alluvial land thus reclaimed from the bay would have more than co- vered the cost of forming the em- bankment. But this scheme was not prosecuted, and a line was subse- quently adopted, though in a greatly modified form, by the Ulverston and Lancaster Ely. Go., at the suggestion of Mr. Brogden, who used to reside on Holme Island, Grange, close to the line of which he may be said to have been the projector. It was his wish to have taken it straight across the bay, somewhat after Mr. Stephen- son’s plan ; but it was eventually de- termined to carry it nearer to the land across the estuaries of the rivers Kent and Leven. The work, during its progress, was a daily encounter with difficulties, occurring at every ebb and flow of the tide, besides the constant wash- ing of the embankment on the land side by the rivers flowing into the sea ; and when to the flow of the tide was added the force of a south-westerly storm, the temporary havoc was cal- culated greatly to discourage the pro- jectors of the undertaking. The principal difficulties were en- countered in crossing the channels of the Leven and Kent rivers. In making the trial borings nothing but sand was found to a depth of 30 ft. In one case the boring was carried 70 ft. down, and then there was nothing but sand. It was necessary, in the first place, to confine the channels of the rivers to a fixed bed, which was accomplished by means of weirs, most ingeniously constructed to counteract the effect of the eddies upon the line of the embankment or main weir. When the currents had been fixed, viaducts of 50 spans of 30 ft. each were thrown over the channels, and in each viaduct was placed a drawbridge, to permit the passing of sailing-vessels. To pro- tect the foundations of the piers of these viaducts, as well as the rly. embankments, weirs were also formed parallel with the current of the stream, which had the further effect of retaining the silt inland, and thus enabling large tracts of land to be reclaimed. This land behind the embankment of the Kent estuary is now under cultivation, where only a short time since fishermen were accustomed to ply their trade. The chief difficulty which the engi- neer, Mr. Brunlees, had to encounter, was in finding a solid foundation amidst the shifting sands for the piers of the extensive viaducts across the mouths of the rivers. He finally overcame this by the use of iron disc piles, which he sunk to an average depth of 20 ft., by means of hydraulic pressure. The water being passed through a pipe down the interior of the pile, loosened the sands immediately beneath the disc, and allowed the pile to sink by its own weight ; after the pressure of water was withdrawn, the piles were driven down by short blows from a heavy “ tup,” and up to the pre- sent time, though supporting a line upon which there is a very heavy traffic, they have given no signs of subsidence. The interior of the embankment is generally formed of sand, the slopes on the sea side being protected by layers of puddle, 12 in. thick, ‘‘ quarry rid” 6 in. thick, and stone pitchings from 8 to 12 in. in thickness. On the landward side, the slopes of the embankment are protected by pitch- ing or sods, according to position. The entire work must be regarded as a complete triumph of English engineering over that element which usually tests its highest skill. The passenger for Ulverston or Furness has generally to change carriages at Carnfortli (but several I trains go through now from the 168 Route 19 . — Arnside — Grange . south), immediately after which a junction is formed with the Mid- land Ely. from Wennington, which places the haematite districts in di- rect communication with the York- shire ironworks, bringing hack coal and coke to the Barrow works. Fine views are obtained very shortly of Morecambe Bay. The shelving shores of limestone, and the verdure of the woods present fine contrasts of colour, and the manner in which the white mountain limestone sometimes crops out on the tops of the bald hills gives them a very peculiar ap- pearance, in some places as if they were covered with hoar-frost. The line crosses the Keer, and winds round Warton Crag to 3J m. Silver dale Stat. (Inns: Bri- tannia, Victoria). The village, pret- tily situated on Morecambe Bay, 1 J m. from the station, is resorted to as a watering-place in the bathing season, though the lodging-houses are few. Large quantities of cockles and “ flukes, ” i.e. flounders, are taken here, and sent to the nearest market towns. A ravine leading past Lindeth Tower to the sea should be visited. The limestone crops out picturesquely, and forms escarp- ments, clothed with lichens, ferns, and other plants. Quiet, sea air, and pleasing scenery may be enjoyed here. On the opposite hill-side is Leigh- ton Hall (E. T. Gillow, Esq.). 6 m. Arnside Stat. This place is developing as a seaside resort, its hotel accommodation being im- proved, and many additional lodg* ing-houses having been erected. From here there is a loop line of the Furness Ely. running along the beach, past Haverbrack banks, through Sandside (Milnthorpe\ to the Oxenholme Junct. of the L. & N. W. Ely. Its only utility to the tourist is a quicker journey to Win- dermere (via Kendal) than is pos- sible via U1 version and Lakeside. Arnside Knot (522 feet) is on the 1., with Arnside Tower , a square build- ing, from which fine views of the bay, Peel Castle, and the estuary of the Kent are commanded. In former days it was a border strong- hold ; the walls are of great thick- ness, with small windows and nu- merous embrasures. The interior is a mere shell, but there are re- mains of a narrow staircase. The ruin is finely placed, with Arnside Knot on one side, and Middlebarrow Wood on the other. On rt. of the line is Hazelslack, or Heslop Tower , another old fortress, once used as a beacon. The district possesses much interest for the geologist and the botanist. The limestone formation is more displayed, and the hedgerows produce some rare ferns. The view from the larch - crowned Arnside Knot will well repay. In the valley to rt. of the rly. is a small lake called Hawes Water , said to contain im- mense quantities of pike, and remark- able for a thick bed of white minute univalve sea-shells. The Kent is here crossed by a viaduct, from which the fine limestone crag of Whitbar- row Scar is seen to great advantage, on the rt. The rly. skirts the shore, of which 100 acres have been re- claimed from the sea by the embank- ment. 8 m. Grange Stat. — (Inns: The Grange Hotel, a first-rate establish- ment in a beautifully picturesque situation, and fitted up with great comfort; the Crown Hotel, which many people prefer, and the Com- mercial Inn). Coaches , once a day during the season, from the Stat. to Lakeside at the foot of Winder- mere, returning in the afternoon. From the Esplanade leading from the Church Square along a ter- race overlooking the Bay, are to be had fine views of Holme Island, Arnside Knott, Carnforth, Hest Bank, and Morecambe. The 169 'Route 19 . — Cartmel Priory . village is -situated on the shores of the Bay, and is sheltered by pic- turesque and lofty crags richly wooded. The scenery has made Grange a favourite resort, and the mildness of the air renders it a de- sirable winter residence. The place is fast assuming town-like propor- tions, and seems destined to become a favourite watering-place. Withers- lack , a short distance off, is the resi- dence of the Bight Hon. F. A. Stan- ley. There are many pleasant walks in the neighbourhood, along which the botanist will find many rare plants. Lindal Lane , on the road to Newby Bridge, should be visited, with the pretty little ch. and village of Lindal, together with Yeivbarrow , the top of which presents phe- nomena of interest to the geologist, in the shape of large fissures or cracks. Near Castle Head , in the lower escarpment of rock on the S. side, the junction of the two forma- tions of slate and limestone is very distinctly marked. Hampsfell , 3 m. from Grange, is well worth the ascent. Picturesque masses of limestone crop out from the heathery waste, and their crevices are filled with beauti- ful ferns. The Hospice is a modern building, erected by an incumbent of Cartmel for the shelter of visitors. The interior of the tower is provided with stone seats and a fireplace, and there is a tablet with a poetical in- scription. The view from the top of Hampsfell is magnificent, com- prising the majority of the lake hills, the bay, the. Furness district, and the country south and eastward of Lancaster. [Cartmel, 2f m. N.W. of Grange, is a small, quiet, and primitive old town, with a church, said to be the only conventual building in Lan- cashire that escaped destruction after the dissolution of the mona- steries. The priory was founded a.d. 1188, by William Mareshall, Earl of Pembroke, and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. “ The site was, accord- ing to a legend, chosen in obedience to a voice heard by some monks, who were building a priory else- where, which directed them to build in a valley between two streams running south and north ; the monks after wandering over a considerable portion of the north of England, found in the valley of Cartmel two such streams, and erected the priory between them.” (Roper 1 s Churches and Castles of N. Lancashire.) It is one of the finest and most interesting spe- cimens of ecclesiastical architecture in the district, and affords examples of almost every style, from Trans.- Norm. down to Late Eng. Cart- mel was never raised to the dignity of an abbey. The Charter declares that the Earl founded it “ for the increase of our holy religion, giving and granting to it every kind of liberty that heart can conceive, or the mouth utter.” The priory was enriched by many subsequent bene- factors. The Charter was confirmed by Edward HI. Henry VIII. dis- solved the priory, the establishment of which at that time consisted of 10 monks and 38 servants. In the original Articles of Survey for the Dissolution of Lancashire monasteries are the following : — ‘ 4 It’m, for y e Church of Cartmell, being the Priorie and alsoe P’sh Church, whether to stand unplucked downe or not? Answer — Ord d by M r Chauncellor of the Duchie to stand still. It’m, for a suet of coopis (copes) claymd by y e Inha- bitants of Cartmell, to belong to y e Church thereof — Ord d that the P’ocbians shall have them styll.” — Whitaker. The ch.-tower is re- markable for its plan, the upper portion being set diagonally upon the lower. The interior of the ch. is a fine specimen of the E. Eng., and the centre is supported by large clustered pillars. The walls of the choir and the transept belong to the first erection, whilo 170 Route 19 . — Cartmel Priory. the windows are of later date. The N.E. window is 40 feet high, and contains a little ancient stained glass. In the N. transept are some of the original lanGet windows, all of which, with one exception, are now blocked up. There are 2 fine Norm, doorways, of about the date 1188. The nave, which is extreme- ly plain, pointed arches dividing it from the side aisles, is of the 15th centy., and was plastered and white- washed by the Puritans; but the whole of this disfigurement has now been removed, and the walls restored to their original state. For nearly 2 centys. the chancel was without a roof, and the fine oak stalls suffered accordingly. Their seats are 500 years old, with grotesque carvings, the work, doubtless, of the monks ; but the upper portions are modern. Mr. Preston, a former owner of Flolker Hall, commenced the resto- ration of the ch. in 1640, and erected the carved oak screen. There are 2 chapels; one called the Py per choir, which has a groined stone roof, and the other, the Town choir. The win- dow at the E. end of the town choir, which has two of its lights blocked up for monuments to members of the Lowther family, contains some stained glass, on which may be read names of several of the descendants of King David. The arches in the clerestory were walled up until 1859, when they were discovered by accident. The capitals of the pillars are of richly-sculptured foli- age. On the N. side of the aisle is an altar-tomb of William de Walton, prior. There is a magni- ficent monument to Sir John Har- rington and his wife recumbent beneath a fine fretwork arch, and decorated by numerous symbolical figures. The base is surmounted by images of chanting monks. The monument was supposed to have been brought from Gleaston Castle, but it is more likely that it stood in some other part of the ch. or priory, and was placed in the chancel after the Dissolution, or at some later re- storation of the edifice. It has suf- fered considerably either in its removal or from age. The elaborate decorations of the upper portion of the tomb represent some of the events of the Passion, such as the buffeting before Pilate, the Scourg- ing, &c. Below the monument is what remains of a piscina, with a curious nail-headed moulding. In the vestry is a valuable library of nearly 300 books, bequeathed by Thomas Preston of Holker in 1692, including a Bible, printed at Basle, in 1511 ; an edition of Thomas Aquinas, printed at Venice, 1506 ; and some other rare specimens of early typography. Here is also preserved a large and very heavy umbrella, supposed to have been used at funerals more than 200 years ago. The interior has um dergone a complete renovation : the plaster ceiling, which long disfigured the nave, has been removed, and woodwork substituted ; the hideous galleries, which prevented the fine proportions of the building from being seen, have been taken down and swept away, and replaced by oak seats. ■ The present porch was erected in 1626, Here are some remains of the monastic buildings, and almost due W. of the ch. stands the ancient gateway of the priory. Its appearance now is not improved by the ground-floor being formed into a shop. The heads of some of the original windows are preserved, and display the trefoil moulding of the earlier part of the 14th centy. Not far from the town is the Holy Well of Cartmel, a medicinal spring, which once attracted many visitors. Staveley, in the parish of Cartmel, was the birthplace of Dr. Law, Bp. of Carlisle in the 18th centy. and a rather celebrated divine in his day. Holme Island , opposite Grange, Route 19 . — Carle: Holker Hall. 171 has been converted into a tasteful domain, the property of Mr. Brun- lees. The island is about 11 acres in extent, and a causeway con- nects it with the mainland. From Grange an excursion may be made to the promontory of Humphrey Head , 4 m., where tradition states that Sir John Harrington killed the last wolf in England. Its summit commands a fine panorama, and at its base is a mineral spring, known as the Holy Well."] 10 m. Kent's Bank Stat. Prior to the construction of the rly., the stage coach from Lancaster to Ul- verston crossed the sands from Hest Bank to this place. A commodious inn has been erected on the hill-side ; the old one is now converted into the Furness Collegiate School. Between the Head and Kent’s Bank is Kirkhead Cavern , which yielded, to Mr. Morris’s exploration, bones both human and animal, axes, hammers, bone and bronze orna- ments, and Roman coins, showing that there must have been a prolonged tenancy of the cave, and that it had not been disturbed for 1800 years or more. On rt. of rly. is Wraysholme Tower , an old Border “ peel house of the Harringtons. The early arms of the Stanley family are still to be seen on two of the diamond-shaped panes of glass, preserved in the farmhouse close to the tower. 12 m. Cark Stat. On the rt. is Holker Hall , a seat of the Duke of Devonshire on the 1. bank of the estuary of the Leven, and sur- rounded with noble woods. The park slopes gently to the water’s edge, and is well stocked with deer. The mansion, with its exquisite gardens, is most liberally shown, even during the residence of the Duke. The greater part of the fine collection of pictures at Holker was burned in the fire that occurred in 1871 ; 103 out of 162 pictures were destroyed, among them being several portraits by Sir P. Lely ; a portrait by Reynolds ; a landscape by Ru- bens, &c. To the rt. of the house is a figure in freestone of Sir Geoffrey Hudson, the dwarf at- tached to the Court of Charles I., armed and holding an arque- bus in his hand. The interior of Holker contains much carved oak furniture, and a series of fine landscapes, chiefly formed in the latter part of the last centy. by SirWilliam Lowther, which, together with the hall, passed by marriage into the possession of the Burling- ton family. Previous to its posses- sion by the Lowthers, Holker was the property of the Prestons in the reign of Elizabeth. The library contains a fine chim- ney-piece of about 1490, executed by the Lombardi family, whose workmanship so greatly contributed to the decoration of Venice. In the corridors is a series of historical portraits. Cark Hall (H. F. Rigge, Esq.), the ancient seat of the Cur wens, is an old mullioned house, with very thick walls. It is a fair example of the ancient manor-house, now so rare, that few as complete as that can be found in N. Lancashire. The front appears to have been built by Chris- topher Rawlinson in the 18th centy., the other side probably erected about half a centy. earlier. One of the bedrooms is panelled, and contains a iarge carved wood mantelpiece. Bigland Hall, to the N. of Cark, is another old house, the kitchen of which contains a singular inscrip- tion on the oak chimney-piece. The fishing villages on the Cartmel coast are very primitive places, large quantities of shell-fish, flounders, and plaice, being taken by stake-nets in the bay. From the ham- let of Flookburgh alone 1000 tons of cockles are sent in the course of the 172 Soule 19 . — Ulverston . year to the various market towns of Lancashire. The “cocklers” belong to the poorest class ; and although all are intent on the same pursuit, they are said never to quarrel, in consequence of a belief that if they did the cockles would all leave the sands with the following tide. The cockles lie buried about an inch below the surface, and their place is known by two little holes or eyes in the sand; they are jerked out into a basket by a three-pronged bent fork, called a 44 cram.” An expert “cockier” will collect 16 quarts of cockles in an hour. . To the 1. of Cark, off the shore, is Chapel Island , upon which the monks of Furness built an oratory, where prayers were daily offered for the safety of the people crossing the sands. An arch and some portions of the wall remain. The shores of the Leven estuary here present a beautiful combina- tion of limestone crags, hanging woods and grassy mounds, with the moors and mountains in the dis- tance. Passing on 1. the sea entrance of the canal, the tourist reaches, 17 J m., the stat. of TJlverston , a brisk little market town, with a pop., in 1871, of 7607. ( Inns : County Hotel, Sun, Braddyll’s Arms.) On the rt., as the town is ap- proached, is Hoad Hill, upon which has been erected a monument 100 ft. high in imitation of the Eddy- stone Lighthouse, to the memory of Sir John Barrow, for many years Secretary of the Admiralty and a native of this town. It was put up in 1850, and is of wrought lime- stone. The diameter of the interior is 19 ft. ; a staircase leads to the top. On the 1. are the woods of Conishead Priory. Ulverston is an oldfashioned town, the capital of the Furness district, and was granted, with a manor attached, to the Abbey of Furness, by King Stephen, a.d, 1217. Its name is supposed to have been derived from Ulphus, a Saxon noble, who ex- | tended his conquest to Furness. Its | commercial status was considerably j increased by the canal made in 1795, under the direction of Kennie, the celebrated engineer, which is capable of admitting ships of 400 tons burthen: though it must be confessed that Barrow has now com- pletely eclipsed Ulverston, and robbed it of nearly all its trade. The iron-mines in the neighbour- hood, however, give Ulverston some importance. The church (St. Mary’s), on an eminence overlooking the town, is a noble one, said to have been originally erected in 1111, partly rebuilt in the reign of Henry VIII., and again in 1804, and in 1866. The Norm. S. doorway is supposed to have been brought from Furness Abbey. It is a fine example, with a double recessed semicircular arch and a chevron moulding. A stone in the S. side of the tower bears the date 1164, which is believed to be that of the construction of the original edifice ; but this date evi- dently cannot belong to the tower, which is of Perp. style, and is sup- posed by antiquaries to have been a mistake of the mason, who mistook the 5 for a 1. Amongst the monu- ments is one to Sir John Barrow; an altar-tomb, with effigy in armour, of William Sandys, of Conishead, temp. Elizabeth, and of the Dodding family, 17th centy. In the vestry is a painting after Vandyck, of the 4 Entombment of Christ.’ In Trinity Ch. is an altar-piece, after Guido , by Ghirardi , the painter of the former one. Amongst the worthies of Ulver- ston were Bichard Ulverston , a celebrated antiquary in the reign of Henry VI., and Sir John Barrow. J m. from the town is the village of Dragley Bech ; and fronting the Bardsea road is a small cottage, the birthplace of Sir John Barrow, Route 19 . — Swarthmoor. ns over the door of which is the motto, “Paulum sufficit. ,, Swarthmoor Hall, formerly the re- sidence of George Fox, the founder of the Quaker sect, 1 m. from Ulver- ston, on the road to Urswick, is a large irregular Elizabethan edifice. The spot is of some historical in- terest, as having been the place where the first regular meetings of the Society of Friends were held. The house was for a long period in a very dilapidated state ; but it has undergone a complete renovation, and has been converted into a com- fortable residence. A portion of it is occupied as a farmhouse. One of the rooms is pointed out as having been the study of Judge Fell, and afterwards of Fox. In the princi- pal bedroom is a finely carved fire- place and some good panelling. Out of another room is a small one from which a door opened, 10 ft. from the ground. From this position Fox used to occasionally address his con- gregation, assembled in the meadow below. The house became his pro- perty on his marriage with the widow of Judge Fell, who was one of his first converts. In 1652, while travelling in Furness, Fox called at Swarthmoor Hall, and in the ab- sence of the Judge, then on circuit, preached to Mrs. Fell and her daughters with so much success that they at once adopted the tenets of Quakerism. On his return the Judge was much distressed at the change which had taken place in the religious opinions of his family ; whereupon Fox requested permis- sion to explain his doctrines, which he did so much to the satisfaction of the Judge that he allowed a weekly meeting to be held at the Hall. Fox married the Judge’s widow in 1 669. She died at Swarth- moor Hall in 1702. I m. from the house is the first Quakers’ meeting- house built in England. Swarthmoor is 2 m. S.W. of Ul- verston. The army which invaded England from Ireland, in 1487, in support of the pretensions of the im- postor Lambert Simnel, and which included 2000 Burgundian merce- naries, encamped here. In 1643 there was an affair near the same spot between the Parliamentary and the King’s forces, in which the latter were worsted. The High Constable of Furness wrote to the Parliament : — “ On 16th of September there came an army into Furness, of 1 500 men, Lord Molyneux, Sir George Middleton, and Sir John Girlington being chief commanders fo^ the King. Our people thought to have kept them out, but they had three nights’ billet at Ulverston, and took most part of our arms, and 500/., and plundered the place very sore. We (the Parliamentarians), how- ever, got together 1500 men, horse and foot, many of them out of Cum- berland, 8 companies of foot, and 3 troops of horse, all firemen, except about 20, who had pikes ; they were all complete, and very stout fellows. They came to Ulverston, and rested there that night ; and early on 1st October, 1643, being Sunday, they set forward, and had prayers on Swartmoor, which being ended they marched forward until they came to Lyndal, and there the foot halted, and the horse went on to Lyndal Castle, and drew up in a valley, facing and shouting at Col. Huddle- stone’s horse, who were drawn up on the top of Lyndal Close, who shouted also in return ; which lasted about an hour, while the foot was receiving powder, shot, and match ; which being ended, the foot marched up to the horse : then the King’s horse fled ; whereupon they raised a great shout, and pursued them very hotly, taking Col. Huddlestone and 300 soldiers prisoners, besides 6 colours, 2 drums, aud much money and apparel.” The Ulverston district has been called the Peru of Furness. The 174 Route 19 . — River ston Iron-ore District . iron-mines are chiefly in the vicinity of Lindal and Dalton. Hollingshed says that the Scots in the reign of Edward II., during one of their raids into England, “met with no iron worth their notice until they came to Furness in Lancashire, where they seized all they could find, and carried it off with the greatest joy ; and, although so heavy of carriage, they preferred it to all other plun- der.” The iron ore (haematite) is very rich, the best producing 16 or 17 cwt. of metal to the ton. The deposits are found in the carboni- ferous limestone, and vary in depth from 30 to 60 yards. The Furness mines produce between 700,000 and 800,000 tons of very rich ore every year, although 30 years ago all the iron ore raised was exported in one small vessel. “ The mode in which that valuable ore of iron (haematite) was deposited in the pre-existing cavities of the carboniferous forma- tion is matter of great geological interest ; joints, fissures, and caverns were formed in the older rocks antecedent to the deposition of the Permian strata ; and in these the ore of iron, so widely diffused throughout the Permian rocks in a portion of the N.W. region, assumed the character of haematite. The earlier Permian rocks of both Eng- land and Scotland are strongly im- pregnated with iron, their composi- tion consisting principally of silica and an oxide of this metal. This inference concerning the Permian age of the haematite has also been arrived at by Professor Phillips.” — Sir R. Murchison , ‘ Transactions E. G. Society, 1864.’ The deposits of “ kidney ore ” in the Ulverston dis- trict are, however, of more recent origin, being found in the fissures and hollows' of the limestone. They in some places mark the presence of a great irregular “fault;” in others they have been precipitated in open water-worn caverns. In such cases the ore was probably introduced during the New Bed sandstone era, while the waters of the sea, saturated with red oxide of iron, flowed through the fissures and caverns of limestone, and filled them gradually up with the metallic matter held in partial solution. Large boulders of limestone are fre- quently found encased in the ore, together with clay and other sub- stances. The productiveness of these mines is a source of great prosperity to the neighbourhood. Rail to Furness Abbey, 7J m. ; Grange, 9J in.; Carnforth, 17£ m.; Barrow, 9 J m. ; Newby Bridge, 8J m. \_Conishead Priory , 2 m. S.E. of Ulverston, is approached by a road through the park. The mansion, which is in the Elizabethan style, from designs by Wyatt, formerly be- longed to the Braddyll family, but is now converted into a hydropathic establishment : a lovelier place for invalids could not be found. The drive through the park to Bard- sea presents some pleasing scenery, the grounds extending to the shores of Morecambe Bay. Conis- head stands on the site of an an- cient priory, founded in the reign of Henry II. by Gam el de Pennington, assisted by the first Baron of Kendal, William de Taillebois. It was ori- ginally designed as a hospital for the poor of Ulverston, under the charge of the monks of the order of St. Augustine. On the rt. of the road, near the S. lodge, is Bardsea Hall , sheltered by woods. It was once a hunting-seat of the Moly- neux family, and is supposed to occupy the site of the ancient hospital of Bardsea — the oldest ecclesiastical establishment in Fur- ness. From the top of the wooded hill behind the hall, the sylvan scenery of Conishead Park and the wide expanse of the Bay may be viewed to great advantage. 'Route 19 . — Bardsea — TJrswick. 175 3 m. Bardsea ( Inn ; Braddyll’s Arms), is situated on a hill sloping - gently down to the shore. The ch. is modern, and contains some hand- some stained glass. From Bardsea a walk may be taken to the summit of Birkrigg, 2 m., following the road that skirts the boundary wall of Bardsea Hall Park, until the common is reached. Proceed to the hamlet of Sunbrick, and return to Bardsea by Well House (Mrs. Petty). The view from Birk- rigg is very striking, and embraces the Bay, the Irish Channel, the Isle of Man, the Yale of Ulverston, the “ Old Man ” of Coniston, with other Cumbrian mountains. There -are some interesting antiquities on Birkrigg, viz., an early British circle of 10 stones, about 3 ft. high, overlooking Bardsea, a camp or en- closure, called Foula , between Sun- brick and Scales, and on an emi- nence, J m. S.W. of Urswh-k ch., the foundations of some ruder buildings, called The Stone Walls , which were probably an early settlement of the Celtic period. The Furness Ely. Compy. are about to construct a loop line to connect this village, which yearly becomes more popular as a summer resort, with Barrow and the Lake district. A coach runs daily between Ulverston and Bardsea. 4 m. S. of Bardsea is Aldtngham. The ch. formerly belonged to the ancient manor of Muchland, or Michel-land, which, tradition re- ports, included the villages of Elios and Crinleton, submerged in con- sequence of the subsidence of this part of the coast. Tradition, how- ever, is incorrect in this instance, for the localities still exist under the names of Newton and Eoose. A statement of the boundaries and annual value of these pa- rishes is preserved in the ancient records of Furness Abbey. The ch. is all that remains of the original village of Aldingham. It consists of a chancel, nave with aisles, and | a square? massive tower ; it contains several brasses , some windows with singular tracery, and pillars separa- ting the aisle from the nave, alter- nately octagonal and cylindrical. There is an opening (technically called a “ squint ”) cut obliquely through the chancel wall, to enable the worshippers, in Catholic times, placed in the S. aisle, to see the Elevation of the Host. A moat, 1 m. distant, indicates the former site of a castle, or more probably of a beacon or watch-tower, which commanded a wide prospect qf the coast and bay, and communicated with another at Lancaster. “ When George Fox was upon his wandering mission in 1652, after visiting Ul- verston, he writes, 4 The first day after I whs moved to go to Alden- ham steeplehouse, and when the priest had done, I spoke to him, but he got away. Then I declared the Word of Life to the people, and warned them to turn to the Lord.’ ” — Baines. TJrswick , 4 m. S. of Ulverston, is picturesquely situated in a valley on the banks of Urswick Tarn. The ch. is very ancient, dating from the Conquest. The massive embattled tower contains a mutilated figure of the Mater Dolorosa, to whom it is dedicated. Some of the windows are lancet-shaped, and ornamented with tracery work ; others are plain and squareheaded. In the interior are some curious brasses , a monumental stone of the 13th centy., with Longo- bardic characters, some stained glass on the S. side of the chancel, and a piscina. The massive key of the S. door (E. Norm.) is a remark- able specimen of mediaeval work- manship, and bears traces of having been gilt. Impressions have fre- quently been taken of it by archaeo- logists. The belfry contains a matins bell 450 years old. The E. and S. windows of the chancel, beautiful [ specimens of Decorated architecture, 176 Boute 19 . — Gleaston Castle — Dalton. were removed from the ch. about 30 years ago, and now stand in the gar- den at Hawk field* Urswick Hall , now a farmhouse, was held by the Fell family for 19 generations. The population in the neighbourhood is principally employed in the Ad- garley and Sta inton iron mines. The old chapel called Bolton Chapel forms one of the barns of a farmhouse about J m. from Urswick. Gleaston Castle , about 3 m. S., is believed to have been built by the Harringtons, Lords of Aldingham, after the sea had swept away their original residence. The date of erection is not certain, but the style of architecture in the two remaining towers points to the early part of the 14th centy. The inte- rior was enclosed by a thick wall, forming a parallelogram 288 ft. long, 170 ft. broad at the N., and 130 ft. broad at the S.W. end, with towers at each angle. The ruins consist of 3 of the towers, and a portion of the curtain wall connecting them. The remains of the largest tower stand at the N.E. coruer. The walls, though in many places 9 ft. thick, are roughly built, and the mortar used has been very poor. It is pleasantly situated in a valley, sur- rounded by well-cultivated hills, and the luxuriant growth of ivy over the crumbiing towers tends to make the Castle of Gleaston one of the most picturesque ruins in the district. A good trout stream flows past the ruins. 3 Proceeding from Ulverston by rly. to Furness Abbey, the first stat. is 20J m. Lindal , near which the encounter between the Royal and Parliamentary forces took place in 1643. The iron mines, with their tall chimneys, are conspicuous objects. Between Ulverston and Lindal on the rt. is Pennington, on the hills above which are some earthworks, supposed, according to local tradition, to be the site of the castle of the Penningtons before the Conquest. But, there being no in- dications of the foundations of build- ings, it is more likely to have been a British fortress. Just above Pen- nington is Conynger Hurst , the resi- dence of the Misses Yarker. When the house was rebuilt, a circular tomb was discovered, in excavating for the cellars, and a number of bones were found, together with an ancient sword, which crumbled to pieces soon after they were exposed to the air. While the rly. was being constructed several querns, stone balls, and axes were found 12 ft. below the surface. Lord Muncaster is the present representative of the Pennington family. 22 m. Dalton Stat., a small town, though once the ancient capital of Furness. It has been said (but it is doubtful) that the Roman road from Maryport to Lancaster passed through it, and it was a Roman station. The Manor Court of the Abbots of Furness was held here, and the civil business of the mona- stery transacted in the square tower near the Market-place, still called Dalton Castle, and occupying the site of an older fortress, supposed (hut very doubtful) to be coeval with the invasion of Agricola. It is an oblong building of 2 stories, the lower portion serving as a prison. The up- per story has a 4-light window with segmented arch, and Dec. windows at the sides. At the angle of the parapet is a figure of a knight in the costume of Edward III. In 1631 Dalton was almost depopulated by the plague. It is now only remark- able for being the centre of the iron mines, which give employment to a large population. The tower of the ch. is ancient, as is also the N. door, part of which is of late Norm . date, and carved with grotesque figures. In the interior is an old font, said to have belonged to Fur- ness Abbey, and in the church- 177 Route 19 . — Furness Abbey . yard is the grave of Romney , the painter, a native of the place, whose father was a cabinetmaker here. It is marked by a plain stone, and the words u Pictor cel&berrimus.” The town, of late years, has been considerably enlarged, owing to the development of the iron-ore mines of the district. The miners here are of a provident class, it being com- puted that four-fifths of them live in their own houses. They have also a large co-operative association, with a capital of 33,000/. Among the old customs of Dalton was one called the Dalton Hunt , succeeded by a ball, called the Dalton Rout, which is mentioned in the ‘ Tatler/ It fell into disuse in 1789. The tourist soon enters the beauti- ful valley of Furness ; at the head of which the main line to White- haven turns off to the rt., while a short branch runs down the glen to 25 m. Furness Abbey Junc. Close by the station is the Abbey Hotel, a pretty building in keeping with the character of the scenery. The accommodation is excellent, and there is a good refreshment room. From hence the traveller may proceed by frequent trains to Barrow, 2 m. ; Ulverston, m. ; Broughton, 10^ m. ; Coniston, 19 m. The remains of Furness Abbey , one of the finest examples of me- dieval ecclesiastical architecture, are close to the rly. on the rt. The style of the Abbey was E. E., but as. additions were made to it as its wealth increased, it gradually assumed a mixed character. The abbey originated in a colony of monks from Savigny, in Normandy, who first of all settled near Preston (Tulketh Hall), and afterwards mi- grated to this spot, then called Beek- ansgill, or the Valley of Deadly Nightshade. In a poem composed by one of the monks, the deadly night- shade is said to have been changed into a harmless plant, doubtless by [. Lancashire .] the sanctity imparted to the ground by the Abbey and its inmates : — “ Haec vallis tenuit olim sibi nomen ab herba Bekan, qua viruit dulcis nunc, tunc sed acerba : Unde domus nomen Bekenesgill claruit ante, Jam patriae tantae nomen partitur et omen.” The monks were invited by Stephen, Earl of Boulogne, after- wards King of England, to settle here, and build the abbey under his protection. The sculptured heads of Stephen and his Queen Maud are still seen, one on each side of the great E. window. In addition to the immense sum which must have been expended in the construc- tion of so magnificent an edifice, Stephen endowed the convent, not only with the lands lying contiguous to it, but with large estates in Lan- cashire, Yorkshire, and Cumberland,* including the whole of Borrowdale, besides property in the Isle of Map, and in Ireland. The annual revenue of the monastery at the time of its dissolution in 1537 was nearly 950/., equivalent to 9000/. at the present day. The society possessed ships of considerable burden, with which it traded to foreign countries; and the iron-mines in Furness, although they do not appear to have been very extensively worked, supplied it with a valuable commodity for exchange. Mention is made of iron- ore found on Walney Island, for the smelting of which the monks erected 2 furnaces. In the reign of Edw. I. the revenue of the abbey was esti- mated at a sum equivalent to 18,000/. of our present money. There were 33 monks at the time of the Disso- lution, and 100 other inmates, in- cluding servants. What is now the hotel was the residence of the abbot, and subsequently that of the Preston family. The abbey and its extensive range of offices were built of the red sandstone of the district. The masonry work was so good, that portions of the walls still remain as firm as if N 178 Route 19 . — Furness Abbey. they had been just built. The boundary-wall enclosed an area of 65 acres, in which were bakeries, malt-kilns, breweries, granaries, gardens, fish-ponds, and all the other appurtenances of a rich and luxurious conventual establishment. The abbey having been first settled from Normandy, the language of the common people of the Furness district is said still to retain some French words and idioms not met with elsewhere in Lancashire. The surrounding estates of the abbey included the whole of the pro- montory on which it is situated; and to the N., as far as the division of the counties of Westmoreland, Cumberland, and Lancashire, at the top of Wrynose, and the space be- tween Windermere on the E. and the river Duddon on the W. — a dis- trict as large as the Isle of Man. It possessed also in its tenantry a military force, numbering 1200 men, of whom 400 were horsemen, avail- able against the inroads of the Scots in the Border wars. A body of these troops, commanded by Sir Edward Stanley, was present at the Battle of Flodden Field, and they are thus referred to in the ancient ballad— “ From Bowland billmen bold were brun, With such as Bottom Banks did hide, From Wharemore up to Whittington, And all to Wenning water- side ; From Silverdale to Kent sand-side ; Whose soil is sown with cockle-shells ; From Cartmel also and Arnside, With fellows fierce from Furness Fells.” There was a beacon-tower on the hill above the abbey, which, on any -alarm of invasion, flashed its fires across the Bay of Morecambe to the garrison of Lancaster. The en- tran ce was through 2 low Gothic arch es. On the 1. is a small build- ing, formerly used either as a porter’s lodge or an almonry. On the N. is t he large transept-window, its arch sti 11 perfect, but overgrown with ivy : below is the principal door, a beautiful specimen of tran- sitional work. There are appear- ances in the wall as if two lancets occupied the place of the present Perp. window; to the 1. are re- mains of several tombs of the abbots and of distinguished persons who were buried there. The transept is 1 29 ft. long and 28 ft. wide, and the ch. is 294 ft. from E. to W. On the E. of the N. transept are 8 chapels, entered through pointed arches springing from clustered pil- lars. There are 2 other chapels and the sacristy (the walls of the latter being now only a few feet high) at- tached to the S. transept. The great tower rose from the centre of the transept, and was supported on 4 arches ; 3 of the pillars remain, and the E. arch, alone, is perfect. The arch of the great E. window is broken; below the latter stood the high altar ; the beautiful sedilia remain ; they are supposed to have been richly gilt, and, with the co- loured capitals of the choir and nave, and the rich stained glass of the windows, the interior must have presented a very gorgeous ap- pearance. On the ground within the choir are many monumental slabs, some bearing the arms of the first Barons of Kendal. There are effigies of 3 mailed cross-legged warriors of the age of Henry III. or Edward I. Upon the heads of 2 are cylindrical flat-topped helmets, with horizontal slits in the vizors — very curious. There is also a draped female figure, well executed ; and ranged in some order are several very perfect tombs of ecclesiastics, marked by crosses. At the W. end are the remains of a lofty tower, the walls of which are supported on 3 sides by staged but- tresses projecting nearly 10 ft. from the walls. It is of later date than the generality of the building, and was probably built about the com- mencement of the 15th centy. The W. window, measuring 35 feet in height, by 11 ft. 6 in. wide, is orna- mented by a series of flowers and 179 Boute 19 . — Furness Abbey . grotesque heads introduced in the hollow of the jambs. The Chapter-house is to the S. of the chancel, and must have been a very elegant building, and, even in its decay, furnishes exquisite subjects for the pencil. A pillar has been judiciously reconstructed out of the fragments, and stands in its original upright position, with its elegant shaft and capital, giving some idea of what the room must have been when perfect. It measures 60 ft. by 45 ft. Its groined and fretted roof has fallen in. The remains of the pillars which supported the 12 ribbed arches show the extreme beauty and simplicity of the design. Above the Chapter- house were the library and scrip- torium ; beyond was the refectory, with rooms connected with it — one, the locutorium, where the monks retired after dinner for conversa- tion, and another the calefactorium, also the lavatorium, which opened upon the garden. The kitchen and other offices communicated with these apartments. Under the hill to the E. of the abbey are the ruins of a building which may have been the hospital or infirmary. The W. end of the ch. was intended to bear a lofty belfry. In* the hotel may be seen some good bas-reliefs, formerly ornaments of the abbey. In the coffee-room is a sculpture of Adam and Eve, and in the upper rooms are Mary Magdalene anointing our Lord's feet, the Woman with the Issue of Blood, John the Baptist, and St. John. The great hall of the mona- stery was in the Early Dec. style, but is now a mere ruin. The cloister court was oblong in form. On the E. side is a noble arcade of 5 arches, surmounted by a series of beautiful lancet windows. All these arches are deeply recessed, and are sup- ported by massive triangular pillars, the mouldings of which have suffered from exposure. The abbey posses- sed great power, and was supreme throughout Furness. The whole pop. was in a state of vassalage to the house ; the mesne lords, on re- ceiving the summons of the abbot, provided their respective contingents for the service of the convent, and every tenant was bound to furnish a man and horse, fully equipped for the Border wars and for the protec- tion of the coast. For a period of 400 years the abbots succeeded peaceably in their rule over this grand convent an