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 https://archive.org/details/journeyfromlondo01penn_0 
 
A 
 
 JOURNEY 
 
 FROM 
 
 LONDON 
 
 TO 
 
 THE ISLE OF WIGHT- 
 
 VOL. I. 
 
e 
 
A 
 
 JOURNEY 
 
 FROM 
 
 LONDON 
 
 TO 
 
 THE ISLE OF WIGHT. 
 
 By THOMAS PENNANT, Esq. 
 
 VOLUME I. 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Eonfcon, 
 
 Printed, at the Oriental Press, by Wilson 8$ Co. 
 
 FOR EDWARD HARDING, NO. 98, PALL-MALL; 
 AND SOLD BY WEST AND HUGHES, NO. 40, PATERNOSTER-ROW. 
 
 1801. 
 
PREFACE 
 
 The merits of the late learned and refpeclable 
 Mr. Pennant, as an Author, are too well known to 
 require encomium: his talents as a Naturalift ftand 
 unrivalled ; and, as a Tourift, he was the firft who en- 
 livened the drynefs of topographical refearch with hif- 
 torical and biographical anecdote, and illuftrated de- 
 fcription with the decorations of the pencil. Several 
 Tours, thus recommended, were publifhed during his 
 lifetime, and have gone through numerous editions ; 
 others, which he never printed, are enumerated in his 
 Literary Life ; amongft thefe ftands confpicuous the 
 Tour from London to Dover, and from Dover to the 
 Land's End. 
 
 In regard to the Tour from London to Dover, 
 which forms part of his great Work on the Outlines 
 of the Globe, he thus exprefTes himfelf: " Vol. II. de- 
 ;c fcribes a Tour commencing at the Temple Stairs, 
 
 b cc com- 
 
VI 
 
 * c comprehending my pafTage down the Thames, as 
 " low as Dartford Creek, and from thence to Dover." 
 
 The Tour from Dover, which forms another part 
 of his Outlines of the Globe, he thus defcribes in page 
 31: " Ever fmce the year 1777, I had quite loft my 
 " fpirit of rambling. Another happy nuptial connexion 
 " fupprefTed every defire to leave my fire-fide; but, 
 " in the fpring of this year, I was induced once more 
 " to renew my journies. My Son had returned from 
 " his laftTour to the Continent, fo much to my fatis- 
 " faction, that I was determined to give him every ad- 
 " vantage that might qualify him for a fecond, which 
 " he w T as on the point of taking over the kingdoms of 
 " France and Spain. I wiflied him to make a com- 
 " parifon of the naval ftrength and commercial ad- 
 " vantages and difadvantages of our ifland, with thofe 
 " of her two powerful rivals: I attended him down 
 u the Thames, vifited all our docks, and, by land, 
 " (from Dai^tford ) followed the whole coaft to the 
 " very Land's E?id. On his return from his fecond 
 " Tour I had great reafon to boaft that this excurfion 
 " was not thrown away : as to myfelf, it was a painful 
 
 " one ; 
 
Vll 
 
 " one ; long ab fence from my family was fo new to 
 " me, that, I may fincerely fay, it caft an anxiety over 
 4 1 the whole journey.'* 
 
 The intereft which every reader muft feel in the 
 defcription and delineation of thefe portions of our ifle,. 
 will be greatly enhanced by the consideration that this 
 is among the pofthumous remains of that correcl ob- 
 ferver, and experienced inveftigator, whofe glance pe- 
 netrated through all the recerTes of Nature — whofe 
 tafte in embellifhment and accuracy in defcription, fub- 
 jecled to the eye, and indelibly imprefTed on the mind 
 of his reader, thofe images which were fo happily con- 
 ceived, and fo intereftingly blended, in his own. This 
 Work is among the laft treafures drawn from that mine 
 of learning and fcience which the hand of Providence 
 has clofed for ever — that mine by which our national 
 treafures have been copioufly augmented, and from 
 which fome of the moil eftimable ornaments of Bri~ 
 tifh Literature have been derived. 
 
 Confidering thefe Tours are part of a grand unfi- 
 uiflied project, they prefent a model to that kindred 
 
 b 2 genius 
 
viii 
 
 genius who fhall venture to perfect what Pennant 
 left incomplete. Confidered as a fragment of an il- 
 Juftrious Author, they will not want value in the eyes 
 of his countrymen, as they difplay that grand portion 
 of the Britifh territory where force, wealth, and that 
 commerce from which both are derived, have fixed 
 their chief, and, it is hoped, immoveable refidence. 
 
 Thefe Tours, now prefented to the Public, were 
 kindly communicated by David Pennant, Efq. the 
 fon of the Author. The Editor has fpared neither 
 pains nor expence to render this Work in all refpecls 
 equal to Mr. Pennant's former publications : it is em- 
 bellifhed with forty-nine Plates, confuting of Views of 
 the mod important places mentioned in the Tour, and 
 Portraits cf Uluftrious Perfons. 
 
 It is necelfary to apprize the Reader, that the ma- 
 nufcript has been fcrupuloufly adhered to, and that 
 two or three breaks, left by Mr. Pennant, are not 
 filled up. This confcientious adherence to literary 
 veracity will require no apology; the Editor de- 
 fpaired of embellifhing, and would not ri(k disfiguring 
 the Work of fo excellent a hand. 
 
ix 
 
 The Editor's befl: thanks are due to John Nixon, 
 Efq. for the loan of feveral Drawings from his elegant 
 pencil, by which the Illuftration of this Work has been 
 completed. 
 
 ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 The Editor has the fatisfadlion of announcing, that, 
 by the kindnefs of David Pennant, Efq. he has been 
 favoured with the Mamifcript of a Northern Tour 
 from Downing to Alfton Moor, by the Author of the 
 prefent Work, and which he propofes, with all conve- 
 nient fpeed, to fubmit to the public perufal. 
 
LIST OF PLATES 
 
 IN 
 
 VOLUME I. 
 
 Map to face the Title. 
 
 Temple Stairs page 1 
 
 Trinity Ilofpital 10 
 
 La Ducheffe de Chevreufe 13 
 
 Sir John Packington 13 
 
 Norfolk Hofpital 21 
 
 Perry's Dock 26 
 
 Charlton Manor-houfe 35 
 
 Lefnes Abbey 41 
 
 Edward Brown, M. D. 57 
 
 Tilbury Fort 59 
 
 Rochefter Caftle and Bridge 73 
 
 Foffils, Plate I. 83 
 
 • Plate II. 88 
 
 Feverfham Abbey 91 
 
 Plott, Dr. 94 
 
 Reculvev 98 
 
 Dent de Lion 105 
 
 North Foreland Light-houfe 110 
 
 St. Auguftin's Monaftery 159 
 
 Canterbury Caftle 164 
 
 Deal Caftle 175 
 
 Walmer Caftle 176 
 
 Dover Caftle 178 
 
 Ancient Chapel and Watch Tower 180 
 
 Sir Thomas Erpingham 181 
 
 Maifon Dieu 193 
 
 Shakelpeare's Cliff 204 
 
FROM 
 
 1LOMDOH TO DOVER. 
 
 n Monday, May 7th, 1787, I breakfafted at the cham- 
 bers of my old friend, William Myddelton, Efq. of the 
 Temple, and took boat at the Temple Stairs, with him and Temple Stairs. 
 my fon David, to make the voyage of the lower part of the 
 Thames, and from thence to proceed by land to examine the 
 naval ftrength of our ifland in the different parts, as far as 
 they extended weftward. He was, in the fummer, to begin 
 a journey through France and Spain. I wifhed to enable 
 him to make a comparifon between the maritime advantages 
 of the three kingdoms. I was very unwilling that foreign- 
 ers mould find him to have been, as Cambden expreffes it, 
 
 b "In 
 
2 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 <c In urbe fua hofpes, in patriafua peregrinus;" but was am- 
 bitious that he fhould fupport the honour of our name, and 
 mew, in diftant lands, his ability to give, as well as his rea- 
 dinefs to receive, inftrudtion. 
 
 The day favoured us with the brightnefs of the fun, 
 which fhewed to great advantage, to the weftward, the 
 magnificent obje£ts of the modern Somerfet Place and the 
 Adelphi, and a part of Weftminjler Bridge ; the venerable 
 ftructure of Weftminjler Hall, and its vaft Abbey, foaring fub- 
 lime above the other buildings. From the middle of the 
 river, the Temple and its fine garden were beautiful embel- 
 lifhments to the banks : the laft evinces the advantages of 
 embankments, in fuch places in which they do not invade 
 the more important fervices of commerce. 
 
 Turning towards the eaft, the elegant Bridge of Black- 
 friars appeared full in view. In palling beneath, we had a 
 melancholy profpect of its haftening to ruin. The ftone, 
 brought from , was of a crumbling nature, inca- 
 
 pable of refifting the weather. A block in one part had 
 flatted from its place, and, like a hidden rock, occafioned 
 the linking of a weft- country barge, of a hundred and forty- 
 fevcn tons, loaden with malt and grain. It was foon 
 
 weighed 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 3 
 
 weighed up ; and I was witnefs to the damaged cargo be- 
 ing taken out in Queenhithe. 
 
 After palling beneath the folemn arch, the whole length 
 of the commercial city appears on the northern fide of the 
 river : St. Paul's Cathedral rifes with awful magnificence. 
 We lament the concealment of great part by the intervening 
 houfes, and regret the impofilbility of forming a noble area, 
 {loping from its fouthern fide to the water's edge. A mul- 
 titude of other churches amaze the eyes with the fingularity 
 of their eccentric fteeples, but ftill delight by their grotefque 
 variety. The Monument is a ftriking object, whether we 
 confider its magnitude, or the beauty of its proportions. 
 London Bridge, with the foreft of malls riling above its bat- 
 tlements, is a fine finifhing of the profpedf, before us. In 
 my pafTage, I never regretted the want of gardens, or orna- 
 mental embankments. When I faw the various docks and 
 wharfs, covered with the great objects of commerce, the 
 fubfiftence of millions, the fupport of our empire, I no 
 longer wilhed the extenfion of the former : let them be con- 
 fined to the weflern part of the metropolis, to which they 
 properly belong. It is the duty of our opulent nobility to 
 honour their country by a difplay of tafte ; of our induf- 
 trious merchants, to increafe the bufy fcene of carts, and 
 drays, and barges, carting every now and then an eye to the 
 
 b 2 weft, 
 
4 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 weft, and fee, with honeft ambition, the reward of induftry 
 in numbers of their predecefTors, who have made the laud- 
 able road to nobility, and all its attendant honours* 
 
 We did not choofe to rifcrue adding to the many thoufands 
 who had loft their lives in darting down the Rapids at 
 London Bridge, fince its diftant foundation in the year 1 1 1 6. 
 We landed at the Old Swan Stairs, and walked to Billingfgate^ 
 from whence we faw our boat make its hafty defcent. There 
 we re-embarked, and were rowed along the mid-channel, 
 bounded on each lide by vaft fleets, of all nations and lizes, 
 as high as fix hundred tons, difpofed, I may fay, in fqua- 
 drons, with fmall intervals between each. Thefe are regu- 
 lated, as I am told, by a perfon correfpondent to a Harbour- 
 Mafter in other ports, who prevents any irregularity in fta- 
 tion or mooring. 
 
 We pafTed as low as , between thefe groups 
 
 of mips, and between the bills of mortality of our vaft me- 
 tropolis. On the northern bank was our bufy Cufto?n- 
 Houfe, into which is difcharged the produce of the Univerfe. 
 Farther on is the Tower, at this time a mere ftately pa- 
 geant ; and Wapping, the haunt of failors, ftretches its long- 
 extended ftreet on the low more, and, with Shadwell and 
 Limehoufe, bending northerly with the river (near Lime- 
 
 kiln 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 5 
 
 kiln Dock) takes a foutherly curve ; and there the Reach re- 
 ceives the diftin&ion of that of Limehoufe. 
 
 We paffed the opening of the Poplar Canal, which is of Poplar Canal. 
 infinite ufe to our capital ; bringing down, by a fhort paf- 
 fage, the corn, and many other fupports of life, out of Hert- 
 fordjhire, and other rich counties, which quit the Lea near 
 Bow, and fave the long, and fometimes dangerous pafs round 
 the IJle of Dogs, 
 
 On the Surry, or fouthern fhore, Southwark is continued St. Olave's. 
 from London Bridge, by the parilh of St. Olave ; and at 
 St. Savory Dock begins Rotherhithe, or Redriff, filled Rotherhithe.. 
 with failors and (hip-builders. Mercantile fhip-yards cover 
 the banks of the river; and from Cuckold's Point, ftigma- 
 tized with a pair of horns, follows the fouthern bend, as far 
 as Greenland Docks. All the interior part, to the foot of 
 Surry Hills, is low and marfhy, or filled with watery mea.- 
 dows, over which it is not improbable but the river fpread, 
 in form of a lake ; and even at prefent its encroachments are 
 prevented by embankments. Thefe are proved on record to 
 have fubfifted above four hundred years *, and the cognizance 
 of the neglect of thefe, and others as high as Fauxhall, are 
 ftiewn to have fallen under the notice of the commiflions and 
 ftatutes of fewers in very remote times. 
 
 i In 
 
6 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 In Middlefex, a little below the Limekilns, we rowed by 
 Isle of Dogs, the beginning of Poplar Marflj, or the Ijle of Dogs, in the 
 chapelry of Poplar, and parifh of Stepney ; a rich marftry pe- 
 ninfula, famous for the falubrity of its grafs, and for its ex- 
 peditious feeding of cattle. Blackwall, feated on the op- 
 pofite fide of the ifthmus, points far to the fouth, and forms 
 a magnificent curvature in the river. Along the margin of 
 the Ifle is a range of embankment, to guard it againft. the 
 waters, which have made frequent breaches. In Speed's map 
 of this country, it appears to have made two channels, quite 
 through, from eaft to weft : one of them remains partially, 
 Poplar Gut. and is called Poplar Gut. 
 
 This tradl took its name from having been the place 
 where our Monarchs kept their hounds during their resid- 
 ence at Greenwich. Foundations of houfes, and gate-hooks, 
 have been found here, parts of the royal kennel, or the 
 dwellings of the attendants ; alfo the ruins of a chapel, 
 which feems to have belonged to the votaries of St. Hubert. 
 
 Greenland At a very fmall diftance beyond Rotherhithe is Green- 
 land Dock, the laft place in the bills of mortality, on the 
 fouth fide of the river. It had been the property of the 
 Duke of Bedford, but was lately purchafed by Mr. Wells, a 
 fhip-builder: many mips are built, but none of large fize. 
 3 Here 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 7 
 
 Here thofe from Greenland difcharge their filthy cargo ; 
 and at this place the blubber is boiled — a fit diftance from 
 the capital. Here alfo is a very confiderable wet dock, in 
 which the India mips are laid up, after the difcharge of 
 their rich lading. 
 
 Immediately beyond Greenland Dock, begins the county 
 
 of 
 
 KENT, 
 
 the Cant turn of the Romans^ and the firft kingdom of the 
 Saxon Heptarchy, completely conquered, in 823, by Eg- 
 bert, firft fole Monarch of England. We ftep from the 
 Greenland Dock, almoft inftantly, into this county, at the 
 Royal Dock at Dtptford. That place, great as it is at this Deptford. 
 day, was, at the time of the Norman conqueft, no more 
 than a poor fifhing village. It was given by the Conqueror 
 to Gilbert de Magm'mot, one of his chief officers. But it 
 owes its confequence to Henry VIII. who eftablirned here a 
 Royal Dock, which at prefent employs above a thoufand 
 men. Many fecond- rates have been launched here. Among 
 others, in 1771, I received great pleafure in the launch 
 of that fine fhip the Grafton^ am id ft" crowds of fpeclators 
 on land and v/ater. 
 
 In 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 In this Dock was laid up, by order of Queen Elizabeth, 
 the Pelican ; the little fhip in which the immortal Drake 
 performed his voyage round the world. The Queen ho- 
 noured him with a vifit, went with him on board, knighted, 
 and beftowed on him the arms of the world within a fhip ; 
 after which, fhe directed the veffel to be laid up, as a perpe- 
 tual memorial of fo great an event. Part flill exifts, in form 
 of an elbow-chair, preferved in the Mufeum at Oxford. The 
 poet Cowley feated himfelf in it, and burft out into the fol- 
 lowing enthuflaftic rhapfody : 
 
 Cheer up, my mates ; the wind does fairly blow; 
 
 Clap on more fail, and never fpare : 
 
 Farewell all lands, for now we are 
 In the wide fea of drink, and merrily we go. 
 Blefs me, 'tis hot ! Another bowl of wine, 
 And we fliall cut the burning line. 
 Hey, boys ! fhe feuds away, and by my head I know 
 We round the world are failing now. 
 What dull men are thofe that tarry at home, 
 When abroad they might wantonly roam, 
 And gain fuch experience, and fpy too 
 Such countries and wonders as I do! 
 But pr'ythee, good pilot, take heed what you do, 
 And fail not to touch at Peru : 
 With gold there the velTel we will ftore, 
 And never, never be poor, 
 No, never be poor any more. 
 
 Mr, 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. c 
 
 Mr. Cowley made this neighbourhood his retreat for Cowley bota- 
 
 NIZES AT DePT- 
 
 fome time, in order to purfue his botanical ftudies : from ford. 
 them he compofed, in elegiac (trains, his books on the vir- 
 tues of herbs, and the beauties of flowers, in various meafures, 
 and on the ufes of trees, in heroic numbers. He is more than 
 ufually enthuflaftic when he fpeaks of a garden, and has an 
 eye to the fubjedt in the elegant conclufion of his own 
 Epitaph : 
 
 Hie fparge flores, fparge breves rofas, 
 Nam vita gaudet mortua floribus, 
 Herbifque odoratis corona 
 Vatis adhuc cinerem calentem. 
 
 He had, during his refidence in Kent, the happinefs of Mr. Evelyn's 
 living near Saye s Court, the feat of his congenial friend, John 
 Evelyn, Efq. in this very town. His effay, The Garden, and 
 the attendant poem, one of the moft pleafing of his works, 
 feem infpirations caught from the tafte of the amiable owner. 
 Here refided for fome time, in 1698, Peter the Great, who Czar Peter. 
 affumed the habit of a common feaman, and worked in the 
 Dock-yard as a fhip-carpenter during his ftay ; his mind 
 pregnant with the vaft defign of forming an empire, which 
 he flattered himfelf was to give law to the North. In con- 
 fequence, he created a fleet, in which he rode triumphant in 
 
 c his 
 
io 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 his own feas, and enabled the high-fbaring Catherine to at- 
 tempt conquests in the diftant Archipelago, and to fubvert, 
 in idea, the empire of the inoffennVe 'Turk* The undifcern- 
 ing Burnet could penetrate no deeper than into his external 
 appearance ; could fee and defcribe the brute : but the deep 
 defigns of the hero were beyond his ken. The words of our 
 Prelate, and the opinion of Addifon, fhould be compared : 
 no judicious reader can fail of uniting in fentiment with the 
 latter. 
 
 Peter had, during his refidence in England, the ufe of 
 Mr. Evelyn 's houfe : here he ungratefully forgot what was 
 due to a genius fo refined as our Philofopher, who, in his 
 Sylva, fpeaks pathetically of his now- ruined gardens at Saye\ 
 Court, (thanks to the Czar of Mufcovy.) Thefe gardens 
 were at the back of St. Nicholases Church, but are now oc- 
 cupied by buildings: an ilex and a cork-tree ftill exift, the 
 reliques of his refined amufements. 
 
 I have, in another place, mentioned the ufeful foundation 
 TrinityHouse. of the Trinity Houfe : the mother-houfe is in this town, in 
 which the mailer and two ^f the wardens are ufually chofen. 
 Plere are alfo certain hofpitals and charities, dependent on it, 
 for the fupport of poor feamen, their widows and orphans. 
 
 In 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 In this populous place are two churches : the more an- 
 cient is dedicated to St. Nicholas, time immemorial the pa- St. Nicholas's 
 
 Church* 
 
 tron of fea-faring men. On the increafe of inhabitants, 
 above fifty years ago, was built another church, dedicated 
 to St. Paul. 
 
 Befides the Royal Dock, here are numbers of private 
 docks and yards. In a word, the whole fliore, from South- 
 wark to this place, is occupied with furnifhing vehicles for 
 our unbounded commerce. 
 
 According to Mr. Hafted, Edward III. frequently refided 
 here, at the moated houfe, or Hone houfe, or King 'John's, King John's 
 houfe ; and Henry IV. is faid to have lived here while he 
 was under cure of the leprofy : fo infectious and fo frequent 
 was the loathfome difcafe in thofe days, that evenMonarchs 
 could not efcape its attack. 
 
 That a Roman road palTed this way, is very probable, 
 from the he. d of a Janus, which might have been placed in ajanus. 
 his character of ReSlor Viarum, an office attributed to that 
 deity. It is of ftone, a foot and a half high ; and had been 
 affixed to the top of a fquare column. 
 
 c 2 Between 
 
12 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Between Deptford and Greenwich is the rivulet Ravenf- 
 bourn ; over which is a ftone bridge, built by Charles I. in 
 1628. Prior to that was one of wood, which had been re- 
 Gueenwich. built as early as the year 1570. Greenwich, at prefent, 
 feems but a continuation of its more modern neighbour, 
 Deptford : before both of them, the Thames forms a noble 
 reach, or bay, called Greenwich Reach , bounded on the 
 Danes here, oppolite fide by the IJle of Dogs. Here, during three years, 
 1014. tne Danijh navy, under their King Sweyn, rode triumphant ; 
 
 and at length their departure out of the realm was pur- 
 chafed at the rate of forty-eight thoufand pounds, befides 
 their maintenance during their ftay, which was two or three 
 years. Their encampment was at Blackheath, above the 
 town ; and feveral barrows, fuppofed to have been the 
 graves of fome of their chieftains, were to be feen in Green- 
 wich Park. 
 
 The view, from the River, of the magnificent Hofpital,and 
 the Town, backed by the hilly Park, is very beautiful ; a fine 
 mixture of art and nature. 
 
 We landed at the great flairs, or, as it was called in old 
 Sir John Pack- times, Greenwich Bridge. It reminds me of the wager laid, 
 in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, by Sir John Packingtcn, 
 
 commonly 
 
SIR JOHN PACKINGTON 
 
 /A 
 
 Tab .Slt/I iDOO.btf i:dw Harding 3STaUJfaU 
 
MARIE deDUCHESfde CHEVREUSE 
 
 Dui *Jan I. itOt. by. I dw. Hardin? 9S.PaUMa». 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 13 
 
 commonly called lujly Packington, that he would fwim 
 from the bridge at Weftminfter, i. e. Whitehall Stairs, to 
 that at Greenwich^ for the fum of three thoufand pounds. 
 This fhews that high wagering was not unknown in that 
 age ; but it was on manly exercifes, worthy of an ancient 
 Roman, "darning into the troubled Tiber." But the good 
 Queen, who had particular tendernefs for handfome fellows, 
 would not permit Sir John to run the hazard of the trial. 
 The portrait of this gallant man is ftill preferved at Weft- 
 wood) the fine and ancient feat of the family. But this ex- 
 ercife was not confined to our fex : the famous Duchefs 
 of Chevreufe emulated the mo ft daring of us ; for fhe is re- 
 corded to have fwam acrofs the Thames. I doubt not but, 
 had fhe thought of it, fhe would not have been inferior in 
 fpirit to the lufty Packington. I cannot fix the part of the 
 river, poiTibly Windfor, where we know fhe attended the 
 Court, in 1638. A very curious copy of verfes was com- 
 pofed on the occafion. I give my friends a few of them, 
 which they will, I dare fay, think fufficient ; and obferve, 
 that the amorous and gallant Duchefs muft have laughed at 
 the Poet, a Sir J. M. for lodging in her bofom the leaft par- 
 ticle of frigidity : 
 
 But her chafte breaft, cold as the cloyfter'd nun, 
 Whofe froft to cryflal might congeal the fun, 
 
 So 
 
14 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 So glaz'd the ftream, that pilots, then afloat, 
 Thought they might fately land without a boat : 
 July had feen the Thames in ice involv'd, 
 Had it not been by her own b^ams difiblv'd. 
 
 The Manor of This place was the Grenavic of the Saxons, and the 
 
 Greenwich, 
 
 Grenviz of the Doom's-day Book. After the Conqueft, it 
 was beftowed by William on his hair- brother Odo, Bifhop 
 Becomes a roy- G f Baieux. It had been a manor given to the Abbey of 
 
 A L RESIDENCE. J 
 
 St Peter •-, in Ghent, by Ethelreda, niece to Alfred the Great, 
 and confirmed to it, in 1044, by the ConfelTor. In fome 
 part are the reliques of the Britifh name, in Combe, i. e. 
 Cwm, a hollow between hills. From the great beauty of the 
 fituation, it became a royal reiidence. Henry VI. made a 
 grant of the manor to his uncle Humphry, Duke of Glou- 
 cefter, and Elinor, his wife, with liberty to inclofe for a 
 park two hundred acres, and to build an embattled houfe and 
 a tower, and to furround them with a ditch. In thofe dif- 
 ordered times, fuch dangerous privileges were never granted 
 but by the King himfelf. The tower occupied the fpot on 
 which the Royal Obfervatory now ftands ; and the palace 
 which he built, that of the fite of the weft wing of the hof- 
 pital. 
 
 Edward IV . enlarged it at a very great expenfe, and 
 granted it, in his fifth year, to his Queen. On the acceflion 
 
 of 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 i5 
 
 of Henry VII. it fell to the Crown. Henry made other ad- 
 ditions, and ornamented it greatly. The brick front, next ' 
 to the garden, was a work of his ; but its chief fplendour 
 was owing to the magnificent tafte of his fon Henry, who 
 was here born ; as were Mary, Elizabeth , and Edward, 
 children of that tyrant, and Monarchs of England. Several, 
 alfo, of the children of James I. were born in this palace ; 
 and within its walls died that amiable Prince, Edward VI. 
 
 I mud not omit that Humphrey, Duke of Gloucefter y Called Pla- 
 
 , , CENTIA. 
 
 beftowed on this delightful palace the name of L^Plea- 
 zaunce, latinized into Placentia. None could more de- 
 fer vedly claim the title. 
 
 Here Henry VIII. attended by his beauteous Anna Bui- Anna Bulled 
 len, on May-day 1535, held gallant tilts and tournaments. 
 In the midft of the gay amufements, the tyrant abruptly 
 quitted the place with fix perfons only, and left behind him 
 confufion and difmay. One of the challengers had taken 
 up the Queen's handkerchief, which (lie had dropped acci- 
 dentally, and which he returned with too much gallantry. 
 Hcn?y\ jealoufy was prepared to catch fire at any trifle. 
 Read in honeft Stow, and reflect on the vain pageantry of this 
 poor fport of Fortune ; on her marriage, her fplendid corona- 
 tion, the magnificent baptifm of her daughter Elizabeth^ her 
 
 . fudden 
 
1 6 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 fudden commitment to the Tower , her fpeedy arraignment, 
 and fpeedy execution ; how (lie loft her head on the 1 9th of 
 May ; how Henry took to his nuptial bed yane Seymour , on 
 the 20th/ of the fame month, and " howe, on the afTencion- 
 daye folowyng, the Kynge ware whyte for mournynge." 
 Henry could ftab in the midft of his fondeft carefles. The 
 mind is eager to fearch for parallels. The merciful Eliza- 
 beth of RtiJJia, in our memory, could caufe the lovely La- 
 pouchin to be torn from her prefence, to be inftantly almoft 
 flayed by the knout, to have her tongue cut out, and hur- 
 ried from the luxuries of a Court to the fnows of the barba- 
 rous Siberia. 
 
 HERE. 
 
 Queen Eliza- Our heroine, of the fame name, was particularly fond of 
 sPLE^mDCouRT tn ^ s palace, and palled much of her time here, in all the plea- 
 fures of that romantic period, attended with tilts and tour- 
 naments, at which her gallant knights exerted all their (kill. 
 The fplendour of her Court, and the almoft idolatrous refpect 
 fhewn to her Highnefs, is admirably defcribed by the Ger- 
 man traveller Hentzncr : wherever fhe turned her face, as 
 fhe was going along, every body fell down on their knees. 
 She refided here, and made feveral ornamental improve- 
 ments; yet at the fame time, by a ftrange inconfiftency, we 
 are told that the prefence-chamber was ftrewed with rufhes. 
 
 Annt 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Anne of Denmark followed her example ; and her huf- 
 band, befides certain additions, laid the foundation of the 
 Houfe of Delight (now the Governor's houfe), built towards 
 the Park. Henrietta Maria completed it in the moft exqui- 
 fite manner : but (hort was her enjoyment ; for from hence, 
 in 1 64 1, her unfortunate hufband took his final leave of it, 
 immerfed in troubles, which never terminated but with his 
 life. 
 
 Charles II. began to rebuild this palace with great magni- r e BUILT BY 
 flcence, and finifhed one wing, at the expence of 36,0001. 
 King William, in 1694, directed that it Ihould be con- 
 verted into an hofpital, gratefully allotted for the quiet retreat 
 and fupport of feamen worn out in the fervice of their 
 country, or finking under wounds received in its defence. 
 As it has been completed, it is the noblefc. hofpital in the 
 world. The great hall is a fuperb room, ufed only on pub- 
 lic occafions. It was painted by Sir James Thornhill, who 
 has placed himfelf among the royal perfonages complimented 
 on the occafion. His demand for this work was contefted, 
 and he was allowed only forty millings a yard fquare ; and, 
 by that fpecies of valuation, fet on the fame footing as a com- 
 mon houfe-painter. The failors take their comfortable meals 
 in a fub-hall, and are molt fuitably lodged in cabins, in dif- 
 ferent galleries, which appear furnifhed with prints and 
 
 r> ornaments, 
 
i8 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 ornaments, fuitable to their profefiion. The number, at pre- 
 
 fent, amounts to 
 
 This royal foundation was carried on at firft by the libe- 
 rality of private perfons, and by public expence : and every 
 feaman in the merchant fervice, as well as the navy, contri- 
 butes fixpence per month. But one grand fupport are the 
 eftates of the unfortunate Earl of Derwentwater, forfeited in 
 the year 1715, and granted to the ufes of this hofpital in the 
 year 1735. They have of late years amounted, with mines 
 included, to twenty thoufand pounds a year. In the years 
 1766, 1767, and 1768, they produced fixty-one thoufand 
 eight hundred and thirty bynges of ore, which, at the valua- 
 tion of each bynge in thofe years, at two pounds fifteen mil- 
 lings, amounted to the vaft fum of 170,032b Poffibly the 
 fituation of public affairs will not admit an act of fo much 
 generofity, otherwife humanity muft wifh that part, at leaf!:, 
 might be reftored to the innocent heirs ! the crime having 
 been long flnce fully expiated. At firft the eftates were or- 
 dered for fale. In 1731, a ftrong fufpicion arofe that there 
 had been a fraudulent contract for part: and it appeared that 
 one William Smith had given only 1060I. for the annual 
 value of 501 3I. in a clandeftine and illegal manner, for 
 which Dennis Bond, member for Poole, and Serjeant Birch, 
 member for Weobly % two of the commiffioners and truftees 
 
 for 
 
F«ROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 19 
 
 for the fale of the eftates, were expelled the Houfe, and Sir 
 John Eylesy member for London, reprimanded by the 
 Speaker. The two firft were prefumed to have acted a 
 molt corrupt part : the laft was treated with tendernefs, as 
 being fuppofed to have acted more from error of the head 
 than the heart, and was only reprimanded in his place. This 
 villainy was detected by the fagacity and laudable zeal of 
 Thomas Lord Gage, then member of Parliament ; for 
 which he received the thanks of the Houfe. The reprimand 
 itfelf, and the whole hiftory of this iniquitous tran faction, 
 which is preferved in the feventh volume of the Debates in 
 Parliament, at p. 153, 208, 237 to 240, are moft worthy of 
 the attention of every Englifoman, and ought to be an ex- 
 ample to pofterity. 
 
 The Park rifes above the Hofpital in a moft beautiful 
 manner: it was inclofed by Charles II. who built the Ob- 
 fervatory on the fite of the Duke of Gloucejlers Tower. 
 That edifice was founded in 1675, and Mr. Flamjlead ap- 
 pointed, by the King, firft Royal Aftronomer; an office ably 
 filled to the prefent time. From the two laft, Bradley 
 and Majkeline, we learn that the latitude in this place is 
 51 0 2 8' 40" N. It often has been made, out of refpect to 
 thofe great authorities, the firft meridian. 
 
 d 2 
 
 The 
 
20 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 The Park is a continuation of the Surry Hi/Is, which, re- 
 ceding weftward from the River, form a noble concavity op- 
 pofite to London, and approach the Thames again at Wandf- 
 worth> leaving a vaft flat between the two extremities, once, 
 in all probability, covered with water. From the fummit 
 of this hill is a matchlefs view of land and naval population, 
 our vafl enclouded capital, a long feries of towns and build- 
 ings, and the rich marfhes of EJfex bounding the majeftic 
 Thames, which is a conftant moving picture of mafts and 
 fails, wafting up and down the ftream the luxuries and wealth 
 of the univerfe. 
 
 Church. The foundation of the Church is of great antiquity : it is 
 dedicated to St. Alphage, Archbifhop of Canterbury, mar- 
 tyred on the fpot, by the barbarous Danes y in ion. It fell 
 into total ruin in 1 7 1 o, and was rebuilt among the fifty new 
 churches voted by Parliament, in the 9th of Queen Anne. 
 
 Gkey Friars. Edward III. founded here a houfe of Grey Friars, and 
 made it an alien priory, by beftowing it on the Abbey of 
 St. Peter, at Ghent. Edward IV. long after the fup pre/lion 
 of alien priories, defigned to found another for the Obfer- 
 va?2tines, near to his palace, but lived only to beflow on them 
 a little chantry and chapel. Henry VII. completed the in- 
 tention. It was much favoured by his fon, till the Monks, 
 
 imprudently 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 imprudently Tiding with the injured Catharine in the affair 
 of the divorce, fell under perfecution. Some fled, the reft 
 were imprifoned, fome executed, and the houfe finally dif- 
 folved in 1534. Among thofe who were put to death was 
 Friar Fore/?, who fuffered with uncommon circumftances of 
 barbarity, as if the tyrant had marked, with peculiar refent- 
 ment, the religious of this houfe. 
 
 There are, in Greenwich, two hofpitals of private found a- NoRFOLK 
 
 1 PITAL. 
 
 tion. I fhall only mention that called Norfolk, which Hands 
 on the river-fide, a little to the north-earl of the Royal Hof- 
 pital. Notwithftanding it was founded by Henry Howard^ 
 Earl of Northampton, yet it bears the title of his brother 
 Thomas, Duke of Norfolk. - Northampton had the honour 
 of founding two others, at Clun in Shropjhire, and at Caftle- 
 rifing in Norfolk. He feemed to reft entirely on a few good 
 works, to expiate for a multitude of fins, to compound with 
 Heaven for a life mo ft enormoufty wicked : he was treache- 
 rous, dilTembling, mean and cruel. The Howards muft not 
 boaft of their blood in this corrupted ftream. He is men- 
 tioned as fubtiliter fubdolus, and a cunning ferpent ; the 
 groffeft flatterer alive; externally a Proteftant, internally a 
 Roman Catholic ; adapting his religion to his conveniency* 
 He enjoyed the higheft honours of the times, yet could fink 
 into a pandar, and promote the intrigue between the favou- 
 
 , 1 rite 
 
22 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 rite Somerfet and his own niece, wife to the injured Earl of 
 EJfex. To fill the meafure of his iniquity, he perfuaded the 
 murder of Sir Thomas Over bury, and, fortunately for him- 
 felf, died before the detedfion of that nefarious tranfaction. 
 
 He had the hardinefs to profecute, in the Star Chamber, 
 certain perfons, who had been indifcreet enough to fay fome 
 fevere truths of him. Sentence was about to be pafTed on 
 them, when the honeft Abbot, Archbifhop of Canterbury \ 
 arofe, and bluntly told the Court, that there were fufficient 
 grounds for the reports, and, pulling out a letter of the Earl's 
 to Cardinal Bellarmine, read from his own confeffion, " That 
 his conformity to the Proteftant Religion was no more than a 
 compliment to the King, but his heart flood firm with the 
 Papifts ; and that he would be ready to further them in any 
 attempt." His Lordfhip was fo ftruck with this, that he went 
 home, made his will, confeffed himfelf a Roman Catholic, 
 and died foon after. As he was Warden of the Cinque 
 Torts, and Governor of Dover Cafile, he was buried there ; 
 and a fuperb monument, made by Stone, at the expence of 
 500I. erected over him in the Chapel of the Caftle: his 
 figure is reprefented kneeling on a farcophagus, in the robes 
 of the Garter, and with his hands clafped. His heirs feemed 
 to have inherited his love of flattery; for, at each comer of 
 the tomb, they have placed a figure of a cardinal virtue. 
 
 2 His 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 23 
 
 His death happened on June 15th, 16 14. In 1696, when 
 the Chapel grew ruinous, his body and tomb were removed 
 into the Chapel of the Hofpital. 
 
 A little below this Hofpital, ftands the vaft magazine of 
 all kinds of iron manufactures ; formerly the property of 
 Mr. Crawley ; afterwards transferred, by the marriage of his 
 daughter Elizabeth, to Earl Ajhburnham. It fhands clofe to 
 the river, moft conveniently for the furnifhing fhips with all 
 the fpecies of larger iron goods, fuch as anchors, &c. &c. for 
 exportation : they are manufactured at 
 
 After leaving Greenwich, we were carried up Blackwall Blackwall 
 
 & ' r Reach. 
 
 Reach, where the 'Thames takes an almoft northern direc- 
 tion, bending towards the upper end, a little to the weft, 
 bounded on the weft by the IJJe of Dogs. We parted by the 
 Folly, a fmall houfe of entertainment, which, during the 
 feafon, is, with the taverns at Greenwich, crowded with 
 epicures, to feaft on "the little fifti called white bait. Thefe White Bait 
 appear in July, in this Reach, in multitudes innumerable ; 
 and, fried with fine flower, afford a delicious repaft. This 
 fpecies is not above two inches long; is of the cyprinus or 
 carp kind, and allied to the bleak, but not of that fpecies 5 
 for none are to be feen in any other of the Britifh ftreams, 
 where bleaks are found in abundance. This feems a diftinct 
 
 nth, 
 
4 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 £fh, perhaps the fame with the pretre or fpret de Calais of 
 Mr. Du Hamel, and the blanquet, fo named from its white- 
 nefs, which are found off the coah: of Normandy. 
 
 Towards the end of this Reach, we pafTed by fome new 
 buildings, called Cold Harbour, and immediately beyond, 
 Blackball, at the great fhip-yard at Blackwall, in the narroweft part of 
 the IJIe of Dogs, where it joins the main land. It is feated 
 in the hamlet of Poplar, and parifh of Stepney, and within 
 the Bills of Mortality; fo may properly be called the eaftern 
 extremity of our great metropolis \ an extent of fix miles 
 and a half to the weftern end at Tyburn Turnpike. 
 
 A chapel was erected at Poplar, in 1654, by voluntary 
 contributions. The Eaft India Company, which has much 
 property in this part, allows the minifter a hundred pounds 
 a year, and a good houfe, in one angle of the paved court of 
 the Alms-houfe. His furplus fees, pews, &c. produce to 
 him about a hundred more : his proper title is that of Chap- 
 lain to the Eajl India Company. The chapel never was 
 confecrated ; but there is an obfeure tradition, that the bu- 
 ry ing-ground had received the benediction of fome Bifhop, 
 who was hurried away, by news of an accident in his own 
 family, before he had completed the object of his million. 
 
 1 
 
 The 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 The Chapel has been, of late years, thoroughly repaired 
 by the Eafl India Company. I muffc not omit mention of 
 a man to whom we are all fo much indebted, Robert Ainf- 
 worthy the Lexicographer ; to whofe memory a tablet hangs 
 on one lide of the altar. The opulent family of the De- 
 thicks had their arms painted in the windows; but it is now 
 extincl, the laft of them dying, about twenty years ago, in an 
 alms-houfe in IJlington. 
 
 The Eaji India Company's alms-houfes, anciently called 
 the Hofpital, confift of twenty-two apartments : a flngle in- 
 mate belongs to each of them : they are chiefly filled with 
 women, who are paid according to the naval rank of their 
 late hufbands. Some have eight millings per month, fome 
 fixteen, and others one pound eight : they have alfo an an- 
 nual allowance of one chaldron of coals each ; and when meat 
 is killed for the Company's fhips, they receive fuch parts of 
 it as will not take fait, and are unfit for keeping. An apo- 
 thecary is paid for attending them when they are ill. 
 
 Penflons are alfo paid to wounded and difabled failors and 
 foldiers. In Lime-ftreet is the office for the Military Fund, 
 and for the allowance allotted to the former. The officers, 
 when out of employ, have, under particular circumftances, 
 penflons, ufually about a hundred a year; but, to avoid abufe 
 
 e of 
 
26 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 of the defign, they are to fwear, if required, that they are 
 not worth a thoufand pounds. 
 
 The fame great Company had alfo founded here a fchool 
 for twenty-four children of feamen, who had been employed 
 in their fervice; but this inflitution has long fince ceafed. 
 
 The Great The Dock and Yard at Blackwall is the greater!: of any 
 
 Ship Yard. . _ _ . r • i i i 
 
 private concern in all hnrope. It is at prelent in the hands 
 of Mr. Perry , who builds fhips of a thoufand, and even eleven 
 hundred tons for the fervice of the EaJI India Company y 
 which draw from nineteen to twenty-one feet of water. At 
 this time I faw a Weft-Indiaman upon the flocks, which 
 was to carry eight hundred tons ; the largeft ever known. 
 Government alfo often contracts with the proprietor for the 
 building of men of war, even of large fizes. The place has 
 been lately highly improved by the addition of a great Wet 
 Dock ; in the digging of which, vafr. quantities of hazel 
 trees and nuts were difcovered. In this Dock, and in the 
 Greenland Dock, all the India mips, after being unrigged, 
 are laid up on their return from their refpeclive voyages. 
 
 Thefe veiTels are built not only in this fhip-yard, but at 
 
 Rotkerhiths and Depijord, near Grave/end, , at Harwich, 
 Southampton, and Hull, and are rigged at the places where they 
 
 are 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 are built : but all are obliged to repair to the port of London, 
 to receive their loading. The firft part, fiich as copper, 
 lead, proviiions, and water, are taken in as ballaft at Dept- 
 ford; the reft, fuch as bale-goods, guns, powder, and all the 
 officers' private trade, at Grave/end. There alfo the greateft 
 part of the men are taken on board, being apt, if taken in 
 fooner, to grow riotous, or to run away. The number to 
 man each fhip is from ninety-nine to a hundred and ten, or 
 twenty, according to the humours of the owners. All of 
 them are hired fhips, and fo me times built upon fpeculation. 
 
 On their return home, the unloading is begun at Wool- 
 wich , or in the Long Reach ; for they never venture higher 
 with full cargo. When they are lightened, they proceed to 
 Blackwall and to Deptford, to deliver out the remainder. 
 The goods are put into hoys belonging to the Company, of 
 a hundred, or a hundred and twenty tons each. Thefe are 
 under the care of a certain number of Revenue Officers, at- 
 tended by others belonging to the fhip; and the whole cargo 
 is fecured under lock and key. The goods are then depo- 
 rted in the following warehoufes: 
 
 At St. Helens, the moft ancient of any, in which Bengal 
 and prohibited goods are lodged ; 
 
 e 2 
 
 In 
 
28 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER; 
 In Lifne-Jlreet, for drugs and baggage ; 
 
 In New-Jlreet, in Bifiopgate-ftreet, for Madras, Bengal, 
 and prohibited goods ; 
 
 In Leadenhall-Jlreet , for the fame ; 
 
 In Billiter-lane, for private trade and drugs ; 
 
 In Fenchurch-ftreet, Pucker's Garden, IVhite Chapel, 
 Crutcbed Friar s, and Tower Hill, for tea, china, and va- 
 rious rnifcellaneous goods : 
 
 And befides thefe, the hired warehoufes, as the Three 
 Cranes, and London Wall, evince the prodigious commerce 
 of our great and important Company. 
 
 At a little diflance from Black-wall, the river takes a cur- 
 vature towards the fouth. At the bafe of a peninfula is the 
 Orchard Houfe. Here the India Company ufually keep, by 
 contract, the Lafcars, or Indian failors, till an opportunity 
 offers of fending them back to their own country. 
 
 TheRiverLea. On the eaft fide of this projection is Bow Creek, the 
 mouth of the river Lea, which, in the reign of Alfred, was 
 3 navigable 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 navigable as far as Hertford, at leaft for fuch veffels as thofe 
 of the Danes, who, in 894, had failed as high as the town, 
 and erected a fort on its banks. In thofe days, the tide is 
 fuppofed to have flowed a confiderable way above its mouth, 
 till it was interrupted by fome works about Stratford-le-Bow, 
 to prevent its farther encroachments. TheDanes had met with 
 a defeat from the Londoners, and had retired to their fort. 
 Alfred, to prevent the return of their fhipping, conceived 
 the great defign of cutting the river into three channels ; by 
 which he lowered the water fo greatly, as to leave their vefTels 
 aground. The barbarians fled to the Severn, and left the 
 country free from their incurfions. This deitroyed, for fome 
 centuries, the navigation. In the reign of Henry VI. there 
 was a plan for reftoring it ; but it probably never was exe- 
 cuted, by reafon of the turbulency of the times. 
 
 The idea was taken up in 1571, when, in the 13th of 
 Queen Elizabeth, an act pafTed for making a new cut, or 
 trench, within ten years, at the expence of the Lord Mayor, 
 Commonalty, and Citizens of London, in order to convey 
 corn and provifions to the capital ; which was accordingly 
 done. Every map fhews the channels which Alfred had 
 cut, to execute his great defign ; which ends a little above 
 Stratford- le-Bow. 
 
 In 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 In 1767 another act was pafTed, to give farther improve- 
 ment to the navigation of this river, as high as Hertford, by 
 feveral new cuts, or canals, fpecified therein: but the greateft 
 advantage remits from the one before mentioned, not exceed- 
 ing a mile and a quarter in length. It begins at Bromiey-le- 
 Bowy and runs in a firaight line into the Thames, a little to 
 the north-weft of Limehoufe Church ; by which means the 
 long circuit from Bow Creek, all round the IJle of Dogs, is 
 faved — a fecure navigation formed for the reciprocal ex- 
 change of the commodities of the rich county of Hertford 
 with all the articles of commerce in the magazines of our 
 capital. The Lea divides Middlefex from the county of 
 
 ESSEX, 
 
 the other branch of the Trinoba?ites. At the Conquer!, this 
 county was an entire foreft (For eft e Effex), but was dif- 
 forefted by feveral of the fucceeding Monarchs. Anciently 
 the Fitz- Auchers of Copped Hall, in this county, held the 
 office of Forefler. 
 
 The firfc parishes we pafTed by were Weftham and Eafl- 
 ham, and the part of the river we entered in was Woolwich 
 Reach, where the Thames takes an eafterly bend- On both 
 fides are marfhy tracts : on that of EJfex, unvaried , on thofe 
 
 of 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 of Kent, backed with rifings beautifully chequered with 
 woods. 
 
 We landed at Woolwich, where we paffed moft agreeably 
 the remainder of the day, favoured by Mr. Harris, clerk of 
 the cheque, with every attention. 
 
 This place, notwithstanding its antiquity, is not men- 
 tioned by any of its county hiftorians, except Mr. Hajled. 
 It was called by the Saxons, Huhiz and IVlvic. 
 
 At the Conqueft it belonged to Hamo de Crevecczur, fe- 
 cond Sheriff of the county. It was a very inconfiderable 
 place, till Henry VIII. founded a Dock and Magazines for 
 naval (lores, about the fame time as that at Deptford. The 
 Editor of Camden called it, in 1695, the Mother Dock, as 
 having then given to the Royal Navy more fhips than any 
 two befides. Henry built here two ot the largefl which 
 England ever faw; the Regent, of a thoufand tons, and, af- 
 ter that, the Harry Grace Dieu, fuppofed to carry a hun- 
 dred guns. When it received its imperious matter, the 
 fails were of cloth of gold. Both were unfortunate : the 
 firft was deftroyed in the year 15 12, in an engagement off 
 the coaft of France-, the other accidentally burnt here, in 
 the firft year of Queen Mary. 
 
 In 
 
32 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 In Charles /.'s time, the Sovereign Royal, of above flxteen 
 hundred tons burthen, was built here: fhe carried 126 
 (exclulive of twenty chace ordnance) guns,* and was mod 
 fuperbly gilt. The Dutch fleet felt its force, and were ufed 
 to call it the Golden Devil, from its ornaments, and the ha- 
 vock it made among them. The Nafeby was built here, in 
 the time of the Commonwealth, and named by the Repub- 
 licans from the battle fo fatal to the Royal caufe. At the 
 reftoration, its name was changed to the Charles, as was the 
 Richard, called from the innocent fon of Cromwell, to that 
 of the James. At this time, the Prince, of ninety guns, and the 
 Boyne, of ninety-eight, the Vanguard, of twenty-four, and 
 the Centurion, of fifty, were on the flocks. 
 
 The River, at this place, is near a mile broad at the time 
 of flood, has feven or eight fathoms water, and even, during 
 the recefs of the tide, is deep enough, at fome of the moor- 
 ings, for the greatefl fbips. It may be called an open har- 
 bour, for vefTels of any burthen may fafely fail up or down 
 Salt Water, at the lowefl ebb. The flood regularly brings fait water as 
 high as this place, rifes, at fpring tides, nineteen feet, and 
 runs with great rapidity. The mips launched here, or at 
 Deptford, take in their guns from the magazine of artillery, 
 
 eflablilhed 
 
 * Campbell's Lives of Admirals, Vol. II. p. 144. 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 33 
 
 eftablifhed at this place. The guns of every {hip are placed 
 apart, in terrific order ; the heavy cannon for batteries, and 
 the mortars, and fhells and balls, piled in elegant forms, 
 complete the tremendous fcene. At this place is their Foun- 
 dery, which, with the ground in which the artillery is proved, 
 is called the Warren. It was a compliment, equally fine and 
 juft, which the Poet payed to Charles II. poflibly on this 
 very fpot : 
 
 Had the old Greeks difcover'd your abode, 
 Crete had not been the cradle of their god ; 
 On thatfmall ifland they had look'dwith fcorn, 
 And in Great Britain thought the thunder born. 
 
 At this place is the office of Ordnance, under the direction- 
 of a chief engineer and a multitude of fubordinate officers, 
 who are very well lodged, to whom the Britijh Jove dele- 
 gates the wielding of his thunder-bolts. Here alfo is the 
 Royal Academy, for the inftructing our generous youth, emu- 
 lous to copy the examples of their veteran mailers, or fa- 
 thers of full age and glory. 
 
 Fortes creantur fortibus et bonis, 
 Eft in juvencis, eft in equis patrum 
 
 Virtus ; nec imbellem feroces 
 
 Progenerant aquil^e columbam. 
 Dodlrina fed vim promovet infitam, 
 Rectique cultus pedora roborant. 
 
 f The 
 
34 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Church. The Church is feated on an eminence above the town. 
 
 From the church-yard is a fine view of the River and the 
 oppofite fhore. At the foot of this hill was found an ancient 
 anchor ; whether this is to be conlldered as a proof that the 
 water once flowed there, or whether it might not have been 
 one accidentally buried from the time of the firft founder of 
 the Royal Yard, I will not determine. 
 
 Greenish Near Woolwich are fome eminences ; the upper ftratum of 
 
 Loam, Fossil con fifj; S of a bed of a greenifh loam, of considerable 
 
 Shells. d 
 
 thicknefs, containing oyfters, and a variety of other foflil 
 fhells. Among the fand is alfo plenty of ramified goodes, 
 with fhells partially or wholly bedded in them, in the fame 
 manner as the fhells are in the flinty nodules in the chalk- 
 pits; beneath lies a ftratum of fand, above twenty feet thick: 
 it is tinged with green, from the fuperincumbent earth, but, 
 after frequent warnings, appears of a whitifh colour. This 
 is of great ufe in the adjacent foundery, in the catting the 
 cannons. 
 
 From hence we afcended to the Barracks, feated on a 
 beautiful eminence. They are plain, but handfome, com- 
 pofed of a centre with twenty-one windows, joined to the 
 wings by a colonnade of four arches : they contain feven 
 hundred troops. The whole corps confifts of two thoufand 
 
 2 one 
 
T 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 one hundred ; but two -thirds are always on duty in our 
 garrifons. 
 
 We continued our walk to the village of Charlton, 
 through woods and gorfy grounds, as wild as if it were two 
 hundred miles from a great capital. Every now and then 
 we had a view of the vaft River. The brakes and hedges 
 were, on all fides, animated by the warbling of nightingales. 
 The manor-houfe, the property of Sir Thomas Spencer Wil- 
 fon, Bart, makes a moft venerable appearance, with its four 
 turrets ; and its lituation is rendered more folemn by a row 
 of cyprefs trees, perhaps moft ancient of any in England. 
 It was built by Sir Adam Newton, who had been tutor to 
 Henry, the accompli (hed fon of "James I. 
 
 It is very remarkable, that near five hundred acres of land, 
 on the fide oppofite to Woolwich, is part of the county of 
 Kent, notwithftanding it is infulated by EJJex and the 
 Thames. It feems very probable, as Mr. Hafied conjectures, 
 that the Sheriff Hamo being at the Conqueft pofferTed of 
 Woolwich, the Conqueror, out of compliment, or for the 
 conveniency of landing on his own ground on the oppofite 
 fhore, might grant him this little tract, and fling it entirely 
 under his jurifdiction. 
 
 F 2 
 
 May 
 
36 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 May Sth. — In our way to the boat, we had a melancholy 
 proof of the profligacy of the times, by a fight of the mul- 
 titude of convicts in chains, labouring in removing earth : 
 eight are employed in drawing each cart. They were well 
 clad, and, by their appearance, feemed well fed; but, in ge- 
 neral, the fenfe of fhame was loft. If they had any at firft, 
 it foon is changed into hardened impudence, by the de- 
 pravity of their fellow prifoners. At this time there were 
 about three hundred buried on land, befides others who are 
 employed on the fhoals of the River in the ballaft lighters. 
 At night they are all lodged on board four great hulks. 
 
 Sprats (Br. ZooL iii. No. 162.) come up, in November , in 
 great numbers, continue till March, and are a great relief to 
 the poor: they are not found higher than where the fait 
 water flows : they are conftantly followed by the fpeckled 
 grebe (Br. Zool. ii. No. 2 39.) called here the fprat loon, from 
 their feeding on that fifh. The fepia loligo, or great fepia 
 (Br. Zool. iv. No. 43.) is very frequent where the fait water 
 reaches, and is found of a confiderable fize. 
 
 From Woolwich^ the River turns towards the north, and 
 Gallions is called Gallions Reach. We parTed under the hulks and 
 
 J^. E A C H 
 
 fome lighters ; the unhappy crews of which* were rendering 
 themfelves ufeful to the public, by removing a bank dange- 
 rous 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 3 
 
 rous to navigation. Saw Barking, a fmall town on the EJfex Barking. 
 fide, built on the river Roding y which falls into the Thames 
 a little below the town : it is made navigable for fmall craft, 
 as high as I If or d Bridge, fcarcely two miles beyond Barking. 
 Drayton celebrates this ftream for its limped waters and gay 
 banks, till it reaches this marfhy tracl, when the Poet fays, 
 " me changes her wreaths for bulrufh flags and reeds." To 
 Barking, William the Conqueror retired after his corona- 
 tion, till he had fecured London, by building the Tower 
 and here he received the fealty of the two great Earls, Ed- 
 win and Morkar. The River now aflumes the name of 
 Barkley Reach, and encreafes much in breadth; from whence 
 we entered Dagenham Reach, and, landing on the EJfex 
 more, vifited the remains of the famous breach. 
 
 In the year 1707, a breach was made in the drain which Dagenham. 
 conveyed the water from the marines bordering on Dagen- 
 ham, by the blowing up a fmall fluke, or trunk. This might 
 have been at firft eafily flopped ; but by neglect, in the 
 fpace of fourteen years, it fpread into feveral large branches, 
 like the natural arms of a river, by the force and fall of the 
 water returning from the marfh land on every reflux of the 
 tide. The largeft of thefe arms is above a mile and a half 
 long, and, in fome places, four or five hundred feet broad, 
 and from twenty to forty feet deep. By this accident, about 
 
 a hun- 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 a hundred and twenty acres of folid marm land have been 
 warned into the Thames, compofed of gravel, clay, and 
 other materials. The weightier!: was lodged on the outfide 
 of the mouth of the breach, above and below, and the 
 lighter! carried to more diftant places. It likewife lodged 
 where there happened to be an eddy ; fo that in many of 
 the reaches were found mallows, unknown before; and about 
 Woolwich, where the men of war were moored, there was a 
 confiderable lefs depth of water. Some new banks were 
 thrown up below Grave/end ; fo that the very navigation of 
 the Thames was, by this accident, threatened with ruin, and 
 of courfe, beggary brought on our flourifhing metropolis, 
 and confequential defertion. After feveral very unfkilful 
 attempts to flop the breach, and prevent farther devaluation, 
 the famous engineer, "John Perry, after he had left RufTia, 
 undertook, and completely remedied the evil. At prefent, 
 the body of water which is left is furnifhed with fluices, to 
 let off that which, at times of hard rains, flows from the 
 land. In it are plenty of carp, and other frefh- water fiili. 
 A fet of gentlemen have, for the diverfion of fifhing, built 
 on its banks a large room, kitchen, and a fmall apartment or 
 two. Both fides of the River are guarded againft the tide 
 by walls, or mounds of earth, which run for many miles 
 along the low country. The marfhes of EJfex have ever 
 been ftigmatifed for their dreadful agues : 
 
 Where 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER, 
 
 39 
 
 Where hazzy fogs and drizzling vapours dwell, 
 Thither raw damps on drooping wings repair. 
 And fhiv'ring quartans make the fickly air. 
 
 Multitudes of Welch, Scotch, and Lincolnjhire meep are fed Cattle fed in 
 here, and many Norfolk crone-ewes, about fix or feven years 
 old, which, being broken-mouthed, cannot feed longer in 
 their own dry country. Great numbers of large cattle are 
 brought here, for the purpofe of grazing, for the London 
 market, where they continue from Michaelmas to the latter 
 end of November. 
 
 We again took to the water. Dagenham Reach bends to- 
 wards the fouth. All the Kentifo fhore, from Woolwich to 
 Erith, is bounded by the large tract of Lefnes marfhes ; above 
 which is a beautiful continuation of the chain of hills, finely 
 wooded and ornamented with villas ; among them is Belvi- Belvidere. 
 dere, the feat of Sir Samp/on Gideon, Bart, fon of an opulent 
 and benevolent "Jew, who caufed him to be educated a 
 Chrijlian, becaufe it was the religion of the country he was 
 to live in. 
 
 All the tract is fubject to the ravages of the tides, when- 
 ever the banks are neglected. In Saxtons and in Speed's 
 maps, the great breach on the Kentijh, and the new, or that 
 of Dagenham, on the Ejjex fhore, fhew the fad effects of 
 
 their 
 
4 o . FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 their fury : thefe have long lince been repaired ; but the 
 Lesnes'Manor, bay before Erith is owing to the accident. The Manor of 
 Lefties, or Erith) is remarkable for the greatnefs of its own- 
 ers. One Azor, a Saxon, pofTeffed it before the Conquefr, 
 when it was beftowed on the Bifliop of Baieux. Richard de 
 Lucy, Jufticiary of E?igland in the time of Henry II, jfobn 
 Earl of Athol, the Badd/efmeres, the Mortimers, and the 
 Plantagenets, were Lords of this place. Other noble names 
 may be added, till, by a common anti-climax in fucceffion, 
 it fell to the Plebeian race. 
 
 Richard de Lucy, in 1178, founded at the neighbouring 
 Lesnes Abbey, village of Lefnes an Abbey of Canons, regular, of Augujiine, 
 This great Justiciary, fatiated with the world, fuddenly 
 quitted all his honours, retired hither, and afTumed the ha- 
 bit and profeffion of the order, till his death, which overtook 
 him in the year following the foundation. A magnificent 
 tomb was erected over his remains, and the following jingling 
 epitaph inferibed to his memory : 
 
 Rapitur in tencbras Richardus lux Luciorum 
 Jufticiae, pacis, dilecflor, et urbis honorum, 
 Chrifte ! fibi requies tecum fit fedepriorum 
 Julia tunc orbi lux bis feptena nitebat 
 Mi lie annos C. novem et feptaginta movebat. 
 
 3 
 
 The 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 The whole revenues of this houfe, at the diffolution, were 
 a hundred and eighty- fix pounds nine {hillings. It muft 
 not be forgot, that the Abbot of Lefnes had twice the honour 
 of being fummoned to Parliament ; but Edward III. not 
 approving the number of mitred heads in the great afTembly 
 of the State, omitted this, with feveral others. Dr. Stukeley, 
 in the Archaologia^ i. 44. has given a good account of this 
 Abbey, and a plan and reprefentation of it, in the flate it was 
 in 1753 ; and informs us, that the roof of a noble hall was 
 made of the naturalized timber of the country chefnut^ cu- 
 rioufly wrought. 
 
 In Weftwood) now known by the name of Abbey wood ^ are 
 abundance of chcfnut trees, with large ftools, rotten and de- 
 caying. This is the only county in England in which thefe 
 trees are found growing collected in woods. It is not a na- 
 tive of England, but was introduced here by the Romans^ 
 and planted by them in this foil, which was peculiarly fitted 
 to its growth. It was found by the Britons to be a moft 
 ufeful timber ; was at firft cultivated by them ; after which 
 it was fpread by the dropping of jays, and other birds, which 
 conceal them for winter (tores, who are either killed, or do 
 not exhauft them fo far but fome are left to vegetate, and 
 form wild and irregular woods. Originally they were un- 
 known to the Romans ; it being a fact, afcertained by the heft 
 
 o audio- 
 
42 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 authority, that they were introduced into Italy from Sardis, 
 in Lydia. Neither the Romans nor Britons had even a name 
 for them. The firft called them nuces glandes Sardiana and 
 caftanea ; the laft they borrowed from the Greek xa^um, and 
 introduced the word with the fruit. The Brztons, to this 
 day, have no other than a borrowed one : thus they call the 
 tree, caflanwydd^ and a wood of them, cafta?ietum i caftan- 
 llwyn. 
 
 Purfleet. From Erith, we crolTed the River obliquely to Purfleet. 
 
 Its great chalk hill rofe before us, in this flat country, like an 
 Alp* A confiderable quantity is burnt into lime, for fale. 
 Magazines of We landed at the tremendous national Magazines of gun- 
 Gun powder. p OWC j er ^ ere £ ec l h ere a bout the year 1762. Before that 
 
 time, they were at Greenwich , which was thought to be too 
 near our capital. They confift of five large parallel build- 
 ings, each above a hundred and fixty feet long, and fifty- 
 two wide, five feet thick, arched beneath the flated roof ; 
 the arch is three feet in thicknefs, and the ridge of the roof 
 covered with a coping of lead twenty-two inches broad. 
 The building was referved for the reception of the barrels 
 of powder brought out of the magazines, in order to be 
 tried in the proof room, to which there is a pafTage with a 
 railed floor, covered on the bottom with water ; fo that, 
 fhould any grain drop, no accident could fet them on fire. 
 
 2 At 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 At prefent this building is difufed, all the experiments being 
 made in the open air, and in the Mufquetry, or Artillery, to 
 the ufe of which it is deftined. All thefe buildings are fur- 
 rounded, at a diftance, with a lofty wall. In the two out- 
 moft is kept the powder, in fmall barrels, piled within wooden 
 frames, from the bottom to the roof ; and between the 
 frames is a platform of planks, that the walkers may go in 
 without fear of ftriking againft any fubftance capable of 
 emitting a fpark. As a farther fecurity, thofe who enter 
 this dreadful place are furnifhed with golofhoes and a carter's 
 frock. Nothing of iron is admitted, for fear of a fatal col- 
 lifion. The doors are of copper, the wheels of the barrows 
 are of brafs. The four buildings ufually contain thirty thou- 
 fand barrels of a hundred pounds weight : mould an explo- 
 Hon take place, London, only fifteen miles diftant, in a di- 
 rect line, would probably fuffer in a high degree. The dread 
 of fuch an accident by lightning, ftruck the Board of Ord- 
 nance fo forcibly, that, in 1772, it confulted the Royal So- 
 ciety on the moft effectual method of preventing it. A Com- 
 mittee from the Society was appointed, who determined on 
 fixing conductors : fuch were fet up with unufual precau- 
 tion. Thefe were on the principle advifed by Dr. Benja- 
 min Franklin : The very fame philofopher, who, living un- 
 der the protection of our mild government, was fecretly 
 playing the incendiary, and too fucccfsfully inflaming the 
 
 g 2 minds 
 
44 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER, 
 
 minds of our fellow-fubjects in America^ till the great ex- 
 plofion happened, which for ever difunited us from our once 
 happy colonifts. On May 15th, 1777, the inefficacy of his 
 pointed conductors was evinced. Lightning ftruck off feve- 
 ral pieces of ftone and brick from the coping of the Board 
 Houfe, which Hands at a fmall diftance from the Magazines ; 
 neither the conductor on this houfe, or any of the others,, 
 acted ; but Providence directed the ftroke to that alone : the 
 mifchief was very trifling. Mr. B. Wilfon had very ably dif- 
 fented againft the method propofed by Dr. Franklin ; but 
 the evil genius of the wily philofopher flood victorious ; and 
 our capital narrowly efcaped fubverlion *. At prefent, thefe 
 important Magazines are made as fafe as human wifdom can 
 contrive. The houfe in queftion is ahandfome plain build- 
 ing, and is called the Board Honfe, from the ufe made occa- 
 fionally of it by the Board of Ordnance. It commands a 
 fine view up and down the River, and the rich gentle range 
 of hills in the county of Kent, 
 
 Dartford From hence we crofTed the Thames y and, with much diffi- 
 Creek. cu ] t y 5 f ounc l our way into the mouth of Dartford Creek. We 
 were now above two miles by land,, and five by water, from 
 
 the 
 
 * A reafon was affigned for this difafter ; for, on infpeftion, it was found 
 to be owing to a want of conftiu&ion in the metallic conductor. See Phil, 
 Tranf. vol. lxviii. p. 232. 3 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 45 
 
 the town of Dartford. The river is called the Darent, and 
 divides the marfhes of Cray ford from thofe of Dartford. In 
 thefe, and the other marfhes of Kent, are found plants, rather 
 fcarce in other places. 
 
 The river affords trouts, of remarkable flavour, and, in 
 old time, falmon. In the year 1613, fix falmons, worth 
 forty fhillings, were paid for liberty of fiftiing in the Creek. 
 We found it mofc ditch-like the whole way, and were obliged 
 to quit our boat foon after we had palled the mouth of the 
 Cray, which empties itfelf into the Darent. On the bank 
 of the Cray, in 557, Hengift, and his fon Oefca, obtained, Battle at 
 at a place then called Creccanford, a bloody victory over the Creccanford - 
 Britons ,and flew four of their leaders, and four thoufand com- 
 mon men ; the reft fled to London ; and Hengift aflumed 
 the title of King of Kent, the firft formed kingdom of the 
 Heptarchy. 
 
 The vafl and ancient excavations, in the chalky flrata Ancient 
 
 Chalk Pits. 
 
 near the village of Crayford, are evidently nothing more than 
 the workings of the Britons in that valuable earth, for the 
 purpofe of manure. They are narrow for a confiderable way 
 down, like the fliaft of a mine, but are of vafl height and 
 extent within, and the roof fupported by pillars of chalk. 
 
 Pliny 
 
4 6 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Pliny moft exactly defcribes this method of working by 
 our diftant anceftors. Speaking of the creta argent aria^ as 
 he calls it, he fays, " Petitur ex alto in centenos pedes actis 
 plerumque puteis, ore anguftatis intus ut in metallis fpati- 
 ante vena: hac maxime Britannia utitur." Examples of fuch 
 pits are to be feen at this day, from twenty to forty yards in 
 depth. 
 
 The river Darent is navigable for barges every tide, from 
 Dartford. it s mouth to Dartford ; but, the water failing us, we were 
 obliged to walk a confiderable way. That town is prettily 
 feated on a flat, bounded by low hills, but open to the Thames, 
 My friend, Mr. jfohn Latham, furgeon, was here our hoft 
 and guide ; his congenial ftudy of ornithology ^ and the dif- 
 courfe on his publication on the ftudy fo fucceflively exe- 
 cuted, rendered this place particularly agreeable to me. 
 Manufacto- There is about it a ftrong fpirit of induftry. The fields, 
 
 RIES. 
 
 particularly above Crayford, are rendered quite gay with the 
 bleacheries of printed linens and cottons. 
 
 At Dartford are paper mills, powder mills, and flatting 
 mills for iron hoops*. The firft paper mill in England was 
 erected on this ftream, by a Sir "John Spilman, who died in 
 
 1607, 
 
 * Thefe have fince been converted into a faw mill, and, laftly, into a cot- 
 ton work, which unfortunately was confumed by fire. 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 47 
 
 1607, and was buried in this Church. Rag-paper had not 
 been invented above a century and a half, and, till about the 
 year 1690, we rarely made any but the coarfe brown fort. 
 We now fcarcely take any paper from France ; yet we for- 
 merly paid to that kingdom annually a hundred thoufand 
 pounds for that article alone. 
 
 Asa fubjed: of natural hiftory, I muft mention that the Horse-Shoe 
 
 Bat. 
 
 horfe-JJjoe bats [Br. Zool. i. No. 39), a rare fpecies elfewhere, 
 are found in great abundance in the faltpetre houfes belong- 
 ing to the Powder Mills, and prey on the gnats, which 
 fwarm there : they are alfo found in the fame place during 
 winter, clinging to the roof in a torpid ftate. 
 
 Edward III. founded here a Nunnery about the year Nunnery, 
 1355, f° r thirty-nine lifters of the order of St. Auguftine. 
 They feemed to be very variable, for they afterwards changed 
 to that of St. Dominic again. They were greatly endowed 
 by their founder, and by Richard II. Edward IV. by rea- 
 fon of fome defect in their former grant, beftowed on them 
 a new patent of incorporation. At the diflblution, their re- 
 venues were found not to be lefs than 380I. 9s. a year. Se- 
 veral ladies of the firft families became priorelTes and religious 
 of this royal foundation. Among others, Bridget^ daughter 
 of Edward IV. took the habit in her early youth, and had 
 
 the 
 
48 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 the good fortune to die in trie reign of Henry Fill, before 
 the diffolution of the houfe. Henry kept it in his own 
 hands, and, as Lambarde fays, " not without great coft" 
 made it a fit houfe for himfelf and his fucceffors. He alfo 
 appointed Sir Richard Long to be the keeper. Edward VI. 
 granted it to Anne of Cleves y the rejected fpoufe of his ftern 
 father. Elizabeth refted in it, on a progrefs fhe made 
 through Kent, in 1573. After various changes, it remains 
 in the po-rTeflion of Charles Margate of Hereford/litre, Efq. 
 and its reliques, confiiting of a brick gateway and tower over 
 it, are known by the name of Dartford Place and Dartford 
 Houfe. Joan Fane was the laft priorefs who furrendered 
 the Abbey, and received a penfion of 661. 13s. 4d. Nine- 
 teen nuns, probably all that were left, alfo had their feveral 
 penfions. 
 
 Edward III. feemed to have a predilection for this place. 
 In 13 3 1, on his return from France^ after doing homage for 
 the dukedom of Guienne, he flopped, and held a general 
 tournament, in which he and his nobility difcharged their 
 courfes in a moft honourable manner. 
 
 Wat Tyler's At Dartford began the bloody infurre&ion of the Com- 
 
 Insurrection. . 
 
 mons, under Wat Tyler ; in the following reign. A heavy 
 alTdfment, in form of a poll-tax, had been made, which fell 
 
 very 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 4? 
 
 very hard upon the common people. One of the rapacious 
 Collectors demanded payment from the daughter of this fa- 
 mous infurgent. The father pleaded the non-age of his child. 
 The Collector attempted a mo ft indecent inquiry, and got 
 his brains knocked out by the juftly enraged parent. No 
 one is ignorant of the event of this dreadful rebellion. 
 
 The woad, the ifatis tinSioria of hiiinceus, or common Woad Plant, 
 woad, is cultivated in great abundance in thefe parts. It is 
 a biennial plant, which is frequently found wild in Great 
 Britain. The glafium, with which the ancient Britons dyed Other Plants. 
 themfelves,. to terrify their enemies ; 
 
 Satyrium hircinum, - - Hatter, No. 1 368 ; 
 
 Ophrys anthropophora, - FL Dan. 103 ; 
 
 apifera, - - - Hatter, No. 1 266 > 
 
 aranifera, - - - Gerard, 212; 
 
 Ophryfmonorchis, - - Fl. Dan. 102 ; 
 
 mufcifera, - Gerard, 213; 
 
 arachnoides, - - Hatter, No. 1266; 
 
 begin to appear in the neighbourhood of this town, and con- 
 tinue through Northfleet, and the different chalky parts of the 
 county. Vaft variety of the orchis, fuch as the Orchises. 
 
 H 
 
 Purpurea, 
 
50 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Purpurea, Haller, No. 1 276; Pyramidalis,//^//^r,No. 1286; 
 
 Militaris, 1277; Conopfea, Fl. Dan. 224; 
 
 Uftulata, Fl. Dan. 103; Maculata, Haller^ 1279; 
 
 Bifolia, 235; Morio, Fl. Dan. * 253; 
 
 Mafcula, — 45 7 J Latifolia, Fl.Dan. - 266; 
 
 grew here in abundance, till they have been almoft extir- 
 pated by the perfons employed in collecting them for the 
 purpofes of making falep, which, of late years, was drank in 
 confumptive cafes. Old Lyte recommends one fpecies to 
 provoke V enus, another to the men (the greateft and fulleft 
 roots) that they may beget fons, and to the females to eat the 
 withered roots, and they will bring forth daughters. Ge- 
 rard alfo recommends the virtues, and for the fame pur- 
 pofes ; but both agree on their efficacy to heclic constitu- 
 tions. 
 
 Hop-Yards. The hop-yards are, in their feafon, no fmall ornaments to 
 this and moft parts of the county. It is pretended that 
 they were not introduced into our ifland till the reign of 
 Henry VIII. I prefume that the ufe of them is intended ; 
 for they are found wild in almoft every part of Brita 'm^ and 
 even have a Britifh name llewig y blaidd^ or bane of the wolf. 
 
 Cherry-Orch- 
 ards. 
 
 The numerous cherry- orchards, planted in regular order, 
 3 and 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 and often with fine crops of wheat growing between them, 
 or fheep grazing, are frequent beauties on the fides of the 
 road. The Romans introduced this delicious fruit into our 
 ifland about a hundred and twenty years after Lucullus had 
 brought it out of Po?itus to Rome \ but the Kentifi cherry, 
 or the old Englijh variety, with a fhort italk, was brought 
 out of Flanders by our honeft patriot, Richard Harrys, 
 fruiterer to Henry Fill, and planted at Teynham. Vaft 
 quantities of thefe, and another kind, are lent to London : 
 the one ripens in July, the other in Augufi. To the fame 
 good man we owe the " temperate pipyn and the golden re- 
 nate." Before our Conquer! by the Romans, our native 
 fruits were very few. We were nearly on a level with Lap- 
 land, and had no more than the currant, cranberry, bilberry, 
 cloudberry, rafpberry, ftrawberry, and floe. 
 
 In this fouthern part of England are found the crat<egus 
 aria, or aria theophrafti, the white beam tree ; forbus aucu- 
 paria, or quicken tree ; and Crataegus torminalis, or wild 
 fervice. The fruits of the laft are, to this day, eaten in 
 thefe parts. The rhamnus jrangula, or berry-bearing alder, 
 is here alfo met with. 
 
 I quite forgot to mention, in its proper place, that we are 
 obliged to Mr. Latham for the difcovery of a fpecies of 
 
 h 2 warbler 
 
52 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 warbler unknown before in our ifland, and which I call, 
 from its habitation, the Dartford. (Br. Zool. ii. No. 161. 
 Latham, iv. 435.) It has been before defcribed hyM. de 
 Buff o?i, under the name of le pitchon de Provence (Hift. 
 d'Oifeaux, v. 158, pi. en 1. 655). It feeds on flax, and, in 
 Provence, haunts the cabbages in fearch of food. 
 
 Greenhithe. Nearly from the mouth of the Dart, the Thames runs 
 fouth-weft, and is, for that fpace, called the hong Reach : 
 at the bottom, as if in a bay, {lands the village of Greenhithe, 
 
 Vast Chalk- anc j j ts va ft Chalk-Pits. The water then takes a fhort and 
 
 Pits. 
 
 fudden turn towards the north, and forms a bay on the Effex 
 fide to Grey\ Thurrock. Here firft appears the range of 
 Chalk Hills : they keep parallel with the more from Stone, 
 in the weftern part of the parifh, to Grave/end. They fur- 
 nifh a very confiderable article of commerce in its natural 
 form, as well as that of lime. Along the more are feveral 
 wharfs, for the conveniency of tranfportation to Norfolk, 
 Suffolk, and even the oppofite county of Effex, notwithftand- 
 ing they have their beds of this ufeful earth. There is alfo 
 here a Horfe Ferry, in old time belonging to the nuns of 
 Dartford. 
 
 The chalk in thefe parts is quarried out of the pits, to the 
 d.epth fometimes of a hundred, and even a hundred and fifty 
 1 feet, 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER, 
 
 53 
 
 feet, and exhibits, from above, a moft ftupendous precipi- 
 tous face. It is burnt in large kilns, and fent to London f 
 and other places, at the price of fixteen fhillings per load : 
 vaft quantities are fent to China, as is fuppofed for the ufe 
 of the potteries. The chalk- workers obferve that the fineft 
 is at the bottom, and the coarfeft near the furface, in which 
 the curious foflil fhells are chiefly found. 
 
 This earth is found in far greater beds in our ifland than 
 in any other country. In Sweden it is met with only ad- 
 herent to flints, which, in England and in France, are found 
 difpofed in horizontal lines, in the vaft ftrata of chalk : pof- 
 fibly the Swedi/h flints, found only on the fhores, may have 
 been wafhed out of fome hitherto unknown beds of that 
 earth. Befldes the ceconomical ufes of chalk, it is fuccefs- 
 fully ufed in medicine, efpecially in the painful diforder of 
 the ftomach, vulgarly called the Heart-burn, and likewife 
 in violent Diarrhoeas. 
 
 The Flints are a material ingredient in the making of the< : Flints. 
 Staff or djhire ware : above five thoufand tons are atinually 
 ufed, fent from Hull up the Trent , and into the cele- 
 brated Staffordjhire Canal. The ufe was originally difco- 
 vered at Brofely, in 1697. They are firft burnt, then levi- 
 gated by vaft pieces of Chert, bound by iron into the form 
 
 of 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 of a wheel, and fet in motion by horfes. The flints at flrft 
 were pounded by the hand ; but fuch numbers of men pe- 
 rilled by inhaling the fpicular fragments, that induced the 
 potters to change the operation. The fuccefs of our manu- 
 factory is univerfally known. There is not a civilized part of 
 the world but what receives it ; even China itfelf conde- 
 fcends to admit it into its cities. This branch has given to 
 Britain a new commerce of exports, for in my days the 
 great eft part of our earthen ware for the table came from 
 Holland. Mr. Wedgewood arofe, and, by his induftry and 
 abilities, has fpread his man u factory every where, benefited 
 his country to the higheft degree, and now moft defervedly 
 enjoys the reward of his ingenuity by an ample fortune, moft 
 honourably raifed. Vaft quantities of flints are fent to China. 
 
 Fossil Teeth, Multitudes of diluvian remains are found bedded in the 
 
 S H E L L S Sc C 
 
 ftrata of chalk, all of them animal ; for I do not recollect 
 any which belong to the vegetable kingdom. Of parts be- 
 longing to fifties, teeth of different fpecies of fharks have 
 been met with ; and the boney palates of others, reiem- 
 bling the firigillaria of Llwyd, Lithoph, No. 1558, are 
 not uncommon. 
 
 Infinite numbers of the various fpecies of echini, and of 
 feveral moft elegant forms, together with the moft curious 
 
 vari- 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 55 
 
 varieties of the fpines, are collected here, for the cabinets of 
 the curious. They are called, by the chalkmen, fea-eggs ; 
 and, being filled with the fineft chalks, are often carried by 
 failors in their voyages, as a remedy for the fluxes they are 
 attacked with in the Torrid Zone. A very beautiful fpecies 
 of anomia y the terebratula, is very frequent. Few or 
 none of thefe follils are to be found in our feas in a recent 
 ftate ; they mull be fought in the moft remote waters : the 
 echini^ in the Red Sea, or in thofe of the diftant India. — 
 The forms, and the very fubftance of the fhells, are pre- 
 ferved through the multitude of ages in which they have 
 been depolited ; the colour alone is difcharged : fome have 
 been entirely pervaded with flint, which, fubtilly entering 
 every minute pore, aflumes with the utmoll: fidelity the exadt 
 figure of the recent fhell. 
 
 From the village of Stone, feated on a height to theeaft 
 of Dartford) is a vail view of the River, and of the ex- 
 tenllve flats and marfhes beyond Gravefend. From hence 
 to that town the country is full of chalk-pits, and kilns 
 fmoking like fo many altars to the Dea Nehelennia^ pa- nehelenma, 
 tronefs of the chalk-workers. The learned Keyjler gives 
 us feveral defcriptions and fculptures of that Goddefs. — 
 Montfaucon* has prefented us with more. She is generally 
 
 repre- 
 
 * Antiq. Exp. Vol. 2. Ft. 2. p. 443. 
 
 Goddess 
 of Chalk- 
 workers. 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 reprefented fitting, a dog by her, and in her lap and by her 
 fide a bafket of fruits, expreflive of her fecundating powers 
 over the earth. Hercules is fometimes placed by her, but 
 oftener Neptune : the one to exprefs her ftrength, the other 
 her intereft in commerce : on one is likewife a rudder ; 
 on another (tone is an infcription, implying that a certain 
 merchant, a dealer in chalk exported out of our ifhnd, 
 vowed an altar for the fuccefsful voyage his fhip had per- 
 formed. We have only one place in Britain where there is 
 any fufpicion of this Goddefs being alluded to, which is 
 near Calcaria, in TorkJ/jire, the fame with the modern Tad- 
 cajler, a place famous for its quarries of lime-ftone, of a 
 very fine kind, approximating to chalk. Therefore Doctor 
 Gale fufpecled that the ford, vulgarly called Helen \r, ought 
 to have been Nehele?tri V, allufive to the commerce carried 
 on in that neighbourhood, under the aufpices of the God- 
 defs. That is not improbable ; but the great place of ex- 
 port of chalk mufl have been on the banks of the Thames, 
 from whence it might have been fhipped with great eafe to its 
 ftaple at Zeland, in Holland ; a difcovery owing to numbers 
 of altars devoted to that Goddefs, found on that coaft 
 lodged in the fand, which was laid bare by the violence of 
 a tempeft in 1646. This was the port in which the chalk 
 was landed, and from which it was conveyed into the feve- 
 veral parts of Germany. The Latin name of this article 
 
 was 
 
Pub? Jam. Hoi. by Edu>. Harding GSJFallMall 
 
/ 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 57 
 
 was Creta, called from the ifland of that name, where it 
 abounded. The Britijh word is Caleb, which poflibly 
 gave name to Calcaria, latinized from the native word. 
 
 From Grey s Thurrock the River bends fuddenly towards 
 the South, and is called Northfleet Hope, from a fmall town Northfleet. 
 of that name, feated near the chalk-pits. In the Church 
 is the monument of Edward Brown, M. D. F. R. S. the Dr - Edward 
 fon of Sir Thomas Brown, the celebrated author of the 
 Religio Medici. He became phylician to Charles II. fuc- 
 ceededhis father as Prefident of the College of Phyficiins, 
 and was ranked among the firft of the profeflion in his 
 time. His travels into Hungary and the adjacent pro- 
 vinces, and his excellent remarks on their natural hiftory, 
 acquired him great fame. He retired, before his death, to 
 his feat near this village, where he died in Auguft 1708. 
 
 From Northfleet Reach the River runs due Eaft, and that 
 fpace is called Grave/end Reach, from the town of that Gravesend. 
 name, feated along the more, on the Ke7ttijld fide. It takes 
 its derivation from the Port-reve ov Greve eftablifhed there, 
 it being the end or limit of his office. This is commonly 
 thought to be the extremity of the Port of London ; but, 
 by a regulation made in 1667, it was ordered that the ex- 
 tent mould be reckoned to the North Foreland, in the IJle 
 
 of 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 of Thanet, on one fide, and to the Natfe, in the county of 
 Ejfex, on the other. Grave/end is a corporation erected in 
 the time of Queen Elizabeth', and has, befides, the ex- 
 clufive privilege (with the neighbouring town of Milton) 
 of carrying all pafTengers to London in their own boats. 
 It was firft granted by Richard II. in consideration of the 
 town having been burnt and reduced to beggary by the 
 French in 1379. At that time the Manor belonged to the 
 religious houfe De la Grace, on Tower-hilL The Abbot 
 made the misfortune of his town a plea with the King to 
 beftow on it this recompence for its fufferings ; and at that 
 time was a very important place, as Grave/end was then the 
 great paffage between London and Calais. At firfl the fare 
 was two-pence ; but, fince, it has been raifed to nine-pence. 
 The boat departs at the ringing of a bell every flood, and 
 returns from Billingsgate on the like fignal. 
 
 Ufually great numbers of (hips are feen at anchor in the 
 channel before the town. From hence merchants' mips 
 from our Capital take their departure. Our line- of- battle 
 mips here take out their guns before they proceed to the 
 docks at Woolwich or Deptford. Here lie the hidia mips 
 before they finally fail, and take in all the bale-goods, 
 and alfo all the officers' trade, and other private trade, the 
 guns, and the powder ; and here they complete their com- 
 2 plement 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER, 
 
 59 
 
 plement of men, which is always deferred to the laft, as 
 well to prevent expence, as to keep the men from defertions, 
 and from rioting, if they remained in a ftate of inactivity. 
 
 Henry VIII. erected here a flrong battery to repel any 
 infult from a foreign enemy, and to guard againft the de- 
 fultory defcents of the French, who had more than once 
 infeited our coafts. This Monarch had adopted a general 
 plan of fortification. At lilbury, oppofite to Grave/end, Tilbury Fort. 
 he erected a block-houfe ; which, after the burning of our 
 fhips in 1667, by the Dutch, at Chatham, was enlarged 
 into a ftrong and regular fortification. It mounts feveral 
 guns ; has a fmall garrifon ; and its Governor, a General 
 Officer, prefides over Gravefend as well as this fort. But 
 what will ever render this place memorable is, that it was 
 fixed on for the encampment of the army, in the year 1588, Camp there 
 
 IN I588. 
 
 to oppofe that which was defigned to be landed from the 
 famous invincible Armada, to march to the conquer! of 
 the Capital, and in the end to have reduced the whole 
 kingdom to the yoke of the bigoted Spaniard. Veftiges 
 of the camp are ftill to be feen (as I have read) on the fpot 
 where a windmill now ftands. This was one of the three 
 armies deftined for the defence of the kingdom. The 
 number of men was to have been twenty-two thoufand foot; 
 but no more than fixteen thoufand five hundred were 
 
 1 2 affembled ; 
 
6o 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 affembled ; and two hundred and fifty-three cavalry, armed 
 with lances ; and feven hundred and fixty-nine light- 
 horfe-men, many of them veterans tried in the fierce fchool 
 of war in the Low Countries. Over thefe were placed a 
 Commander in Chief, the unworthy favourite, the Earl of 
 heicejler^ who had returned from the Netherlands loaden 
 with dilnonour, and even fufpedted of cowardice, and of a 
 defign to enflave the States : he had, on his recall, even the 
 effrontery to caufe medals to be ftruck, reflecting on them 
 for their ingratitude; yet female prejudices for once led our 
 celebrated Queen into an error which might have proved fa- 
 tal to her kingdom, had the ikill of the General been op- 
 pofed to the abilities of the great Parma. Elizabeth was 
 fuperior to every weaknefs but that of Love. She vilited 
 the camp in perfon, rode from rank to rank, and animated 
 her troops by the moft infpiriting fpeeches. 
 
 As I am now on the fpot, I mall mention the part of one 
 as the moft animated of any which ever really fell from 
 the mouth of an heroine- She has been compared to a 
 Deborah, a Boadicea, and a Zenobia. Had her Highnefs 
 been put to the proof, her deeds might have not been lefs 
 celebrated ! But I queftion whether any one of them con- 
 firmed their refolves with fo round a period as did the daugh- 
 ter of our bluff Monarch, in whom, on this occafion, his 
 
 fpirit 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 fpirit fully burft forth. She alludes to the cowardly defer- 
 tion of the country at the appearance of the Armada, by 
 feveral of the gentry who lived on the coafts. " I under- 
 \* ftand," fays fhe, " that numbers of the Gentry have 
 " quitted their feats on the fight of the enemy : Should 
 " they ever again betray the like want of courage, by 
 <{ G — d I will make them know what it is to be fearful on 
 " fo urgent an occafion ! ! !" 
 
 At this important crifis the whole River was fortified 
 from Tilbury to See~nefs } the great bend between Woolwich 
 and Greenwich, A ftrong fort was ere&ed at Gravefend> 
 oppofite to this place : there was not a curvature on either 
 ilde, but which had its battery that commanded its re- 
 fpective reach up and down the River : on See-nefs, and 
 its correfpondent fhore, were ftrong redoubts. This was the 
 laft : could the Spaniards have forced thofe, the Common^ 
 wealth might have been defpaired of. This is from Tha- 
 mefis Defcript. Anno 1588 j Roberto Adamo, Authore, — in 
 parchment. He was Author of Expeditionis Hifpanorum 
 in A?tgliam vera defcriptio, A, D. 1588; from which the 
 hangings of the Houfe of Lords were deigned. 
 
 From hence the Thames begins to increafe greatly in. 
 width : it takes a bend towards the North-eaft, and re- 
 1 . ceives 
 
6 2 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 ceives the name of the Sea- reach. The Hope, a famous 
 anchorage for homeward-bound vefTels, is towards the ex- 
 tremity ; and is named from the ftrong expe&ation mariners 
 have of arriving fafe at home after the dangers of the fea, 
 and the Goodwin Sands. Each fide is bounded by marfhes, 
 the high lands of Kent beginning here to recede from the 
 water. 
 
 Canvey Isle. Canvey IJIe> a low unhealthy tracl: of above three thou- 
 fand fix hundred acres, is on the Ejfex fide, divided from 
 it by a narrow channel dry at low water. It has been fup- 
 pofed, from limilitude of founds, to have been the Con- 
 vennos or Counos of Ptolemy. 
 
 Isle of Grean. The IJle oj Grean, or Graine, is on the Kentijh fide, 
 very like in nature to Canvey, and divided from the main 
 land by a channel, very narrow at prefent, but, as late as the 
 time of Edward III. fo wide as to have been the ufual paf- 
 fage to the Port of London, and was called the Tenlet. 
 In the reign of that Monarch a ftrong guard was kept at 
 La Tenlade in Hoo 3 conlifting of twelve men at arms, and 
 fix hobelers, or men who were to give notice of the ap- 
 proach of an enemy. 
 
 [ The Nore. Off the end of the Ifle Graine is the Nore y or North- 
 
 fand. 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 63 
 
 fand. The Nore, a buoy fo named, is at the northern 
 extremity, with a floating light, to direct veffels to the an- 
 chorage in this perilous Eftuary. All the channel for a con- 
 liderable way, even to the Naze on the EJfex coaft, is rilled 
 with fand-banks pointing towards the North-eaft. They 
 lie parallel ; are very long, narrow, and divided by narrow 
 channels, through which the mariner has the choice of paf- 
 fage. Thefe are formed by the mud brought down by the 
 ftream, and depolited in the order they lie. Thefe formed 
 the firft accumulations, and the fand collected upon them 
 brought up by the tide of flood. 
 
 Divided from the Eaftern end of Graine, by a channel Isle of 
 not a mile broad, is the IJle of Shepey, the fuppofed Tolia- 
 pis of Ptolemy, and the Sceapige of the Saxons, or the IJle 
 of Sheep. On the North is the channel ; on the South, 
 a narrow arm of the fea, called the Swale, much contracted 
 from its ancient breadth and depth, having formerly been the 
 common paflage from the North Foreland for mips bound 
 to London. At prefent there are three ferries ; that of the 
 King's is the moft frequented, which is wafted over by. a 
 long cable flung acrofs the water. 
 
 The moft confequential place is the Fort and Ship-yard Sh 
 at SheernefS) jutting into the Swale, oppoiite to the IJle of 
 
 Graine, 
 
 EERNESS.. 
 
6 4 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Graine. The land, it occupies, in the time of Charles I, 
 was a morafs, on which his fon thought fit to erect a bat- 
 tery of twelve guns, to defend the paffage up the Medway. 
 The King, who had indifputably a great and quick difcern- 
 ment of things till involved in the mift of diffipation, made 
 two journies, in the depth of winter, to the fpot, to give 
 the neceffary orders for building a fort, to the Commiffion- 
 ers of the Ordnance. Thdfe were neglected, infomuch 
 tfiat when the Dutch appeared before the place in 1667, in 
 tfie way up the Medway ^ they quickly beat all the works 
 to the ground with their guns, notwiihftandL g the place 
 was garrifoned with good foldiers, under excellent officers. 
 The Dutch landed fome men, as if they intended to for- 
 tify and keep the fort ; but they were too wife to co tinue 
 in their refolution. The confequence of this neglect roufeo! 
 trie nation, and it was determined to erect a regular fortifi- 
 cation, under the direction of Sir Martin Beckman^ Chief 
 Engineer. It became a Royal Fort, has its Governor, and 
 is well provided with all things neceffary for defence. A 
 Royal Dock-yard was alfo eftablifhed, with all the requi- 
 fites for repairing or for building (hips of war. 
 
 Queenbo- At a fmall diftance to the Eaft flood ^ueenborough Caftle, 
 
 ROUGH CAS- 
 
 tu. once a noble pile, till it was pulled down foon after the 
 
 year 1650. It was built by Edward III. about the year 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 65 
 
 1 361, under the direction of the famous William of Wick* 
 ham, then Surveyor of the Royal Works, afterwards Bimop 
 of Winchefier. He difcharged his truft with great abilities ; 
 and the King named it, in honour of his Queen, Philippaoi 
 Hainauit. A town rofe under its protection ; it was incor- 
 porated in the reign of Queen Elizabeth, and fends two 
 Members to our great Council. 
 
 Edward was not fo improvident as the founders of the Its Well. 
 neighbouring Sheernefs. He had funk and fecured, within 
 his garrifon, a well of good water : till within this prefent 
 century the fort of Sheernefs was quite deftitute of this ne- 
 ceflary ; all the water of the ifland being fo impregnated 
 with the tafte of the Pyrites, or copperas ftone, with which 
 it abounds, that it is fcarcely drinkable. -Before the year 
 1723, the garrifon and the mips of war daily received their 
 water at a vaft expence from Chatham. In that year the 
 Commiffioners of the Navy gave direction, that the an- 
 cient well of ^ueenborough Cajlle mould be examined. 
 The agents cleared the well of the rubbifh, and found it 
 nicely walled, in a circular form, to the depth of two hun- 
 dred feet. On boring they found at the bottom a clofe 
 blueifh clay ; and after three days and a half defpairing trial, 
 the water burft up at once, and in an hour rofe four feet ; on 
 the next day, fifty-five feet ten inches ; and on the eighth 
 
 k it 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 it rofe to a hundred and feventy-fix. They met with no 
 water till they had reached eighty- one feet below the bot- 
 tom of the well, which, by computation, is fuppofed to 
 have been a hundred and fixty feet beneath the deepen: part 
 of the adjacent fea : the water proved excellent, and fup- 
 plies the wants of the garrifom 
 
 The Weft Swale, or the entrance opposite ta Sheernefs, 
 is reckoned to have a tide the . fierceft and the fulleft of 
 ebullitions, current, and little whirlpools, of any in the 
 kingdom. It is at this place the Medway, after a very long 
 courfe, difcharges its waters. I do not know why Milton 
 ftyles it the Medway Smooth ; whoever has hung over 
 Rochefter Bridge cannot but be {truck with the foaming 
 impetuofity of the tide : perhaps it may merit the epithet 
 beyond the reach of the lunar influence. It meanders 
 finely up to that city ; the fir ft part through a flat and 
 marfhy land. 
 
 The firfl place of note is Stangate-creek, the place where 
 ihips deftined for the Port of London, coming from coun- 
 tries infected with the plague, are obliged to perform qua- 
 rantine, under falutary reftri&ionsj fan&ioned by feveral 
 A els of Parliament. 
 
 3 
 
 At 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 At Occam Naffe are the ruins of a fort built in the time 
 of Charles II. Higher up, on the fouthern fide, is Gilling- 
 ham, famous as being the place where our heroine Eliza- 
 beth kept her fleet. In 1578 it confifted but of twenty- 
 four fhips of allfizes; the large ft, the Triumph, of a thou- 
 fand tons ; the leaft, the George , under fixty tons : yet with 
 them fhe was the terror of Europe. Gillingham had its 
 fort, to defend the Palladium of the Nation. 
 
 Four miles above Gillingham, on the north fide of the 
 River, is Upnor Cajlle, built by Queen Elizabeth ; of an 
 oblong form, with a tower at each end, and a vaft fqnare 
 gate on the weft fide. Mr. Grofe obferves, that it was 
 fo injudicioufly built as never to be of any ufe : at pre- 
 fent it is conyerted into a powder magazine. 
 
 When Elizabeth built this caftle, fhe probably had in 
 view the defence of the Royal Ship-yard, which fhe in- 
 tended to eftablifh at Chatham, a little above Upnor, on, 
 the oppofite fide of the Medway. Some even fay fhe had 
 begun the undertaking. But it is certain that her fuccefTor 
 removed the yard to this place, and that his fon, Charles I, 
 improved it greatly, erected very conftderable buildings, 
 and made two docks for floating the lliips in with the 
 tide. Elizabeth had done little or nothing here in 1570, 
 
 k 2 the 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 the time in which hambard wrote ; for all he gives of the 
 place is a very filly ftory of our Lady of the Roode of Chet- 
 ham, and a mofh perturbed corpfe, the plague of the poor 
 Clerk of Gillingham. 
 
 Charles II v/ho was fond of the Navy, made great ad- 
 ditions to the yard, and here laid up our principal mips. In 
 June 1667, we fuffered here an infult of the moft mortify- 
 ing nature. On the 7 th of that month, De Ruyter ap- 
 peared fuddenly at the mouth of the Thames, with feventy 
 fail of mips. He detached his Vice Admiral Van Ghent 
 with feventeen of the lighter mips and eight nre-fhips, 
 attacked and took the fort at Sheernefs, and then made 
 difpofitions to proceed up the River. Government took 
 the alarm, and inftantly fent the Duke of Albemarle to 
 Chatham, who, with his ufual courage and activity, afTem- 
 bled a large body of troops, and took every meafure which 
 the fbortnefs of the time would admit to ward off the tre- 
 mendous blow. He was attended by Sir Edward Spragge 
 with a train of gallant officers, and a multitude of noble 
 volunteers. He funk feveral mips in the channel of the 
 River, flung a chain acrofs the narroweft part, and placed 
 behind it three great men of war, which had been the 
 fruits of his valour, taken from the Dutch. At firft the 
 intrepid Monk threw himfelf on board thefe fhips, with 
 
 three 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 three hundred young gentlemen volunteers with pikes in 
 their hands ; but being difluaded by his friends from fo 
 defperate and ufelefs a poft, he came on fhore, otherwife 
 he and his brave companions would have in a very fmall 
 fpace been devoted to the flames. 
 
 The Dutch were then approaching very faft, with all 
 the advantages of wind and tide. With a prefs of fail 
 they pafTed amidft the funk fhips, and broke through the 
 chain. They hefitated about the laft, and probably might 
 have defifted, had not one Captain Brackel, at the time 
 confined on board one of their fhips for certain misbeha- 
 viour, offered to lead the way, and atone for his paft mif- 
 conduct. He performed his engagement ; and the three 
 fhips, the Unity, the Matthias, and Charles V. were in a 
 moment in one tremendous blaze. On the thirteenth they 
 advanced as high as Upnor Caflle, with fix men of war 
 and five fire-fhips ; but met with fo warm a reception from 
 Major Scott, Commandant in the Caftle, and Sir Edward 
 Spragge, who directed the batteries on the oppofite fhore, 
 that the Dutch fufTered great damage in their fhips, and 
 lofs of men. But, in their return, they burnt the Loyal 
 London, the Great James, and the Royal Oak. A Dou- 
 glas, Captain of the laft, in the confufion of the day, had 
 received no directions to retire. <c It never fhall be faid," 
 
 fays 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 fays he, c < that a Douglas quitted his poft without orders !" 
 fo continued on board, and fell a glorious facrifice to difci- 
 pline and obedience to command. <£ Whether," obferves 
 Sir William 'Temple, " it is wife in men to do fuch actions 
 or no, I am fure it is fo in ftates to honour them." 
 
 The Dutch carried off the hull of the Royal Charles in tri- 
 umph. In their return, two of their mips were run on more 
 in the Medway, and deftroyed ; and this, with the eight fire- 
 fhips burnt in the action, and a hundred and fifty men killed, 
 was all the lofs the Dutch hiftorians pretend they received. 
 Much of our's was owing to the infamous conduct of Com- 
 miflioner Pet, and the other civil officers, who neglected 
 every order which was given them, and who had carried 
 away every boat to fecure their own effects, when the in- 
 trepid Monk was in want of them for the moll important 
 purpofes. London was ftruck with fuch a panic that it 
 hourly expecfed the enemy to burn it to the ground. — 
 Some fhips were funk at Woolwich, and fome at Blackwall, 
 and batteries erected on various parts of the River. Great 
 cenfure fell on the Government ; who had rafhly laid up the 
 capital mips on entering into a treaty with the Dutch, who 
 had even then refufed a fufpenfion of arms. Still, it was 
 faid, more mifchief might have been done ; for, had the 
 enemy acted with becoming vigour, neither the Dock at 
 
 Cha- 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Chatham, nor the remainder of our Navy, could have 
 efcaped deftruction. 
 
 The head of the Eftuary of the Med way ends nobly with 
 Rochefter Bridge, its ancient Caftle and Cathedral, with 
 the large village of Strode on the weftern bank ; and the 
 hill of Chatham, its important building, and Royal fub- 
 jacent Ship-yard, on the eaftern. 
 
 Rochefier had been the Durobrivis of the Romans, feated 
 on the military road. The Saxons continued its import- 
 ance, by furrounding it with walls, poffibly on the ancient 
 foundations. The prefent Caftle was founded on the fcite 
 of the Roman, as is evident from the Roman bricks mixed 
 in the walls, and various Roman coins dug up within the 
 precincts. The remains we now admire were the work of 
 Gundulfhus, a Bifhop more eminent for his good plain 
 fenfe and fkill in military architecture than for his learn- 
 ing. I refer to the elaborate work on the fubjecl: by Ed- 
 ward King, Efq. in Archcelogia, vol. iv. 367, tab. 22; 
 and in vol. vi. p. 296; and Mr. Dennis, in the fame vo- 
 lume, — for an account of this curious fortrefs. Gundulphus 
 muft have built it between the years 1077 an( ^ 1J °7> tne 
 period of his Epifcopate. The round or Norman arch is 
 
 curi- 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 curioufly exemplified in this Caftle ; as are the various 
 fpecies of military defence in his days : all have a fimi- 
 larity ; fquare, with a fquare tower at each angle. 
 
 The body of the prefent Cathedral remains another proof 
 
 of Gundulphms fk.ill : he rebuilt it in the form of the time, 
 with round arches and clumfy pillars. Adjoining to his 
 
 Church is a fquare tower, built by that Prelate in the ufual 
 ftyle. Many parts of the Church, ere&ed fince his days, 
 are in the Gothic manner. The front is not inelegant ; 
 the great door is Norman. In the embellishments on the 
 front of the fide towers the round arch chiefly prevails ; 
 the great window is Gothic. The fquab fpire-fteeple de- 
 forms the pile. Moft of the monuments are of Church- 
 men. That to Walter de Merton, Lord Chancellor of 
 England, and founder of Merton College, who died in 
 1277, growing ruinous, it was renewed, in 1598, by Sir 
 Henry Savile, Warden of Merton College, and the Fel- 
 lows. I believe that no part of the Palace is left. The 
 lafr. Bifhop who refided in it was the pious and venerable 
 FiJJoer, the melancholy martyr to the impofture of the Holy 
 Maid of Kent. Since the Reformation, Bromley, in this 
 county, has been the refidence of the Prelates. 
 
 The 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 The Bifhoprick was founded by Ethe/bert, in the year 
 600, who built a Church dedicated to St. Andrew, and 
 placed here a Bifhop, and a Chapter of fecular Priefts ; the 
 firft Biftiop was Jufius, a Roman. Gundulphus fettled in 
 it fifty or fixty black Monks, with a Prior. At the diffb- 
 lution the Priory was fupprefTed, and Henry placed here a 
 Dean and iix Prebendaries, &c. Sec, It is one of the pooreft 
 of our Bifhopricks, and has ufually annexed to it the rich 
 Deanry of Weftminfier. 
 
 Rochejler Bridge has eleven arches ; the fides are guarded 
 by a parapet and iron rails, and on the centre is a draw- 
 bridge. The piers are very ftrong, and fecured with fter- 
 lings, to prevent its being injured by the violence of the 
 tides or the force of the ice brought down the rapid ft ream. 
 This bridge was built in the time of Richard II. by that- 
 great warrior Sir Robert Knollys, and Sir John de Cobham. 
 The old bridge had been of wood, and flood nearer the 
 Caftle. It confifted of nine piers. The repair of the 
 arches was allotted to different people ; for example — 
 The Archbilhop had the care of the fifth and ninth pier : 
 the Bifhop of Rochejler ; of the firft : the King, of the 
 fourth. Gillingham, How, and other manors and lands 
 had the care of the remaining, which, bv their tenures, 
 they were bound to fupport. 
 
 l Chatham 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Chatham is a continuation of Rochejler, in form of a very 
 long ftreet. In it is St. Bartholomew's Hofpital, founded 
 by Bifhop Gundulphus in 1078, originally for Lepers. This 
 is the firft inftitution in this kingdom for that filthy diftem- 
 per ; the gift of the Holy Land, imported by the abfurdity of 
 pilgrimage before the time of the Crufades, which had not 
 begun till the year 1096. It efcaped dhTolution, and ftill 
 is kept as a charitable inftitution under the patronage of the 
 Deans of Rochejler; and maintains four brethren, two of 
 whom are in orders. 
 
 That great feaman, Sir John Hawkins, in 1592, founded 
 here an hofpital for wounded or difabled feamen or fhip- 
 wrights, which fupports, in a mod comfortable manner, 
 ten perfons who come under that defcription. 
 
 The Chefl at Chatham, as it is called, was eftablifhed by 
 the fame pious feaman, in conjundion with Sir Francis 
 Drake, immediately after the defeat of the Spanijh Armada-, 
 to which the failors of the Royal Navy of that time agreed 
 to contribute. It is continued to this day, and is poffened 
 of feveral landed eftates. 
 
 The great Dock and Ship-yard are to the North of the 
 town of Chatham, and extend along the more ; and the 
 
 1 bar- 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 7 = 
 
 barracks, and other buildings, above them : the hill rifes 
 rapidly above, and is included in modern fortifications and 
 redoubts yet unfinifhed. The Romans had a Cafirum 
 JEstivum, which came within part of the precincts, as ap- 
 pears by graves, arms, coins, lacrymatories, and other anti- 
 quities difcovered in forming the works. Vaft. bufinefs is 
 carried on in this yard. The ViStory was built here ; and 
 at this time the Queen, a fine firft-rate, was on the ftocks. 
 
 The ifland of Shepey is about thirteen miles in length, Siz £ of Shepey 
 
 Isle 
 
 and fix in its greatefl: breadth : the fouthern Hurts are low 
 and marmy ; the interior is diverfified with fmall rifings, 
 and every part is rich in pafturage. Along the northern 
 fhore is a range of clayey cliffs, about fix miles in length, 
 Hoping at each extremity. The fpecies of earth is the 
 Marga cinereo-fufca of Da Cofta, p. 71. The loftiefi: part 
 is near Minfter, where it rifes to the height of ninety feet. 
 At the eaftern end is Shelnefs, a long beach, entirely com- 
 pofed of the fragments of fliells flung up by the fea. 
 
 This ifland was, in early times, fubjecl; to the depreda- 
 tions of foreign invaders ; firft of the Saxons, and then of 
 the Danes, who often wintered here, and made the place 
 the fcene of many horrid barbarities. Religious houfes 
 were a particular objecl: of their rage- That of Minfter Mi'nstm. 
 
 l % was 
 
7 6 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 was deftroyed by them ; a Convent founded, betweea the 
 years 664 and 673, by Sexburga, widow to Er comber t r 
 King of Kent, and filled with feventy-feven Nuns. She 
 religned her charge to her daughter Erminilda y and retired 
 to the Monaftery of Ely, then governed by her lifter^ 
 Ethelreda. At the fuppreflion its revenues amounted to 
 two hundred pounds a year. At that period there was 
 only Alicia Crane, the Priorefs, and ten Benedicline Nuns; 
 for, long after its deftruction by the Danes, it was re-peopled 
 in 1 1 30, with that order, by William Corbeil, Archbimop 
 of Canterbury. Henry VIII* made a grant of this Mo- 
 nailery, and all its pofTeflions, to Sir Thomas Cheney, Con- 
 ftable of ^ueenborough Caftle, Knight of the Garter, War- 
 den of the Cinque Ports, and Treafurer of the Houfehold. 
 
 Church. p ar t of the Conventual Church is Handing, and in ufe; 
 
 and the gateway, and fome ruins of the Abbey, are ftill to 
 be feen. In the Church is the tomb of Sir Thomas Che- 
 ney, who died in the firfl year of Queen Elizabeth. There 
 Tomb of Sir is another remarkable tomb of Sir Robert de Shurland, Lord 
 Shurland. °f Shurland, in this ifle, created Knight Banneret for his 
 valour at the fiege of Caerlavoroc Caftle by Edward I. — 
 He is reprefented armed and crofs-legged, as if he had ob- 
 tained that privilege by having vifited or made a vow to vifit 
 the Holy Land. By him is the head of a horfe emerging 
 
 out 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER, 
 
 77 
 
 out of the waves, as if in the action of fwimming. One of 
 the many foolifh tales relative to this figure will fuffice : — 
 Our Knight, on a quarrel with his prieft, buried the poor 
 father alive : at that time it happened that the King lay 
 at anchor under the ifle ; Sir Robert fwam on his horfe to 
 the Royal veffel, and obtained his pardon, and returned to 
 fhore on his trufty fteed. He then recollected that a witch 
 had predicted that he fhould owe his death to that horfe : 
 to render that void, he drew his fword and ungratefully put 
 his faithful preferver to death. Long after, palling by the 
 fpot, he faw its bones bleaching on the ground ; he gave 
 the fcull a contemptuous kick ; the bone wounded his foot; 
 his foot mortified ; the Knight died, and the prediction 
 was fulfilled. 
 
 About fix or feven and thirty years ago I vifited the IJle 
 of Shepey, in order to collect the various extraneous foflils Fossils of 
 with which the cliffs on the north fide abound ; and re- 
 fided, for that purpofe, a few days at Minfter, and the vil- 
 lage of Warden, a little to the eaft, and not far from that 
 of Shurland> the Manor of the celebrated Sir Robert. The 
 cliffs of thcfe parts being compofed of a very loofe friable 
 marie, are very liable to the depredations of the fea, which 
 continually gains on the ifland, and often undermines and 
 tears away fragments of an acre in circumfeience, cove ed 
 
 3 wich 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 with crops of corn, which frequently ripens before the 
 ground is totally torn to pieces. When that is effected, the 
 ForTilifl finds numberlefs treafures before buried in the bo- 
 fom of the earth. 
 
 Pyrit.t, or Numbers of the poor inhabitants gain livelihoods by 
 
 Copperas 
 
 Stone. picking up for the Copperas- makers the Pyritce that are 
 warned out by the waves. They received (when I vifited 
 the ifland) only one penny a gallon for their labours ; but 
 get a considerable addition to their gains from gratuities 
 given by curious ftrangers for the extraneous fofiils they 
 pick up at the fame time. The fuccefs of thefe poor peo- 
 ple depends much on the ftorminefs of the feafon : a boif- 
 terous eafl wind is of great fervice to them, as it wafhes a 
 greater number of Pyritce out of the cliffs, which extend 
 from about half a mile beyond Minfier, to a quarter of a 
 mile beyond Warden ; in all, nine miles, allowing for the 
 winding of the fhores. 
 
 Thefe are divided into three liberties, Minfter, Eaft- 
 church, and Warden, which are rented to the mafters of the 
 Copperas works at an annual rent : Ea/tchurch at thirty 
 pounds per annum ; and Warden, with a Copperas- work 
 Gill'mgham, at forty-five pounds. 
 
 It 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 It is not certain whether we did not import this ufeful 
 article before the reign of Queen Elizabeth. In the begin- 
 ning of her reign Cornelius de V ot had a patent for making 
 alum and copperas. In 1579 Matthias Falconer ', & Bra- 
 ba?tter> did try and drew very good brimflone and coppe- 
 ras out of certain ftones gathered in great plenty on the 
 fhore near unto Minfter ; yet we did not export any till the 
 latter end of the laft century. Ca?npbel informs us that in his 
 time, viz. 1774, we exported two thoufand tons annually ; 
 which is poflible, as Mr. Charles Whitworth affures us, that 
 in three months only, in 1776, four hundred tons were fent 
 abroad. No one needs be told of the multifarious ufes of 
 this article in dyeing, and for various purpofes. 
 
 The hiftory and procefs is amply given in Doctor Lewis's 
 Philofophical Commerce of the Arts. The French ftill ex- 
 cel us in their fcarlet and black dyes. Since we are not in- 
 ferior to them in knowledge, the excellency probably arifes 
 from the water of the Seine. 
 
 The Pyritce are lodged in the cliffs in vaft abundance, 
 infomuch that they infect the water on that fide of the 
 ifland, efpecially above Warden, with fuch a vitriolic tafte 
 as to render it fcarce drinkable. They are found of various 
 forms — globular, botryoid, oblong, and of feveral other 
 
 fhapes. 
 
8o 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 fhapes. Within they are of ftriated texture, generally 
 radiated from a centre, and externally covered with a fer- 
 ruginous coat. Do&or Woodward y in his Catalogue of 
 Foflils, defcribes moll of the varieties, vol. i. p. 175, 
 p, 19, 20, 21, 24, 25. 
 
 Thefe foflils abound in the cliffs and on the mores of 
 the ifland, being beat out by the violence of the waves.— 
 Ludi Hel- In the ftratum of the clay they always lie horizontally, and 
 numbers of them lodge in the cliffs in the manner of a vein, 
 which dips with the ftratum. All the ludi are covered 
 with a thick cruft of indurated clay, are of a compreffed 
 form, and from one to two feet and a half long : thofe 
 which lie on the more are naked, or deprived of their cruft, 
 by being frequently toffed about and worn by the waves. 
 
 There are great varieties of this foffd in the ifle, differ- 
 ing either in the form of the tali^ or the matter of which 
 the fepta are compofed : fome of the tali are long, narrow, 
 and angular, forming regular columns ; others very thick 
 and broad. In others was a double fet, each reaching only 
 half way through the mafs, covered on all fides, and at the 
 end with fparry fepta. The oppollte fet were of the fame 
 fizc, juft in the middle of the ludus. 
 
 Some 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 8j 
 
 Some ludi had a nucleus in the middle, covered with a 
 fparry cruft. This was furrounded with tali, pointing to- 
 wards it from the outward cruft. 
 
 In the cliffs are often found ludi^ emits of which are 
 formed like the bezoar miner ale \ the cruft of a pale reddifh 
 brown ; the coat of a deeper. The tali in thefe are nume- 
 rous and irregular, not running from tide to fide ; and, on 
 breaking the ftone, fall out, not being attached to the cruft 
 like the tali of the other kind. 
 
 Some ludi had large protuberances at their ends, which 
 contained two fmall tali y in the manner of a nucleus. 
 
 The fepta conlift of various kinds of fpars, and make a 
 very elegant appearance ; fome were quite fmooth, others 
 cryftallized; fome botryoid, and of different degrees of yel- 
 low ; but the greateft part had the appearance and colour of 
 bees -wax in the cake, which occasioned Doctor Grew to 
 call thefe follils the waxen vein. 
 
 Sometimes the fepta were covered with beautiful golden 
 pyritce., and I met with one fpecimen with multitudes of 
 fmall felenitce fticking to the tali. There v/as alio a fmall 
 fpecies of ludus^ of a whitifti-brown colour, divided by fepta 
 
 m of 
 
82 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 of fmall round pyrites, running over the furface like firings 
 of beads. 
 
 A few of the ludi had their tali quite naked, the fifTures 
 in that foffil not having yet been pervaded by the fparry 
 matter. This foffil is known by different names. Van 
 Helmont called it a ludus, from the cubic form of fome of 
 the fepta ; and attributed to it great lithanthriptic virtues. 
 Dr. Grew calls it the waxen vein ; Dr. Woodward, the In- 
 dus helmont ii ; and Dr. Hill, by the moil apt name of fep- 
 taria : that univerfal quack was not always fo fortunate. 
 
 Selenites, Selenites are found in great abundance in the cliffs, efpe- 
 cially in thofe parts where the clay is moft tenacious. 
 
 Some are columnar, and confifl of two broad fides and 
 four narrow ones, thin, and much compreffed ; are ge- 
 nerally pellucid ; but in fome is immerfed a pennated body, 
 that has a pretty feather-like appearance. Thefe felenitce 
 are of different fizes, from one to feven inches in length, 
 but their greateft breadth not exceeding an inch and a half, 
 and the thicknefs about a quarter of an inch. They often 
 appear very indiftin£t, from the irregular junction of fe- 
 veral at the time of their formation.. 
 
 There 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 «3 
 
 There is a fecond fpecies, much thicker than the former : 
 it confifts of two flat parallelopiped fides, two with a fharp 
 ridge in the middle, the two ends Hoping off, each a con- 
 trary way likewife ridged. Thefe are feldom found fingle, 
 but united with others. No ufe is made of thefe felenitde ; 
 but they may be burnt to a finer plainer than the gyp/a ; 
 and there might be collected in the ifle fufhcient quantity of 
 the former, for the purpofes of the more elegant flucco 
 work. 
 
 Another fpecies is peculiar to this ifland ; and, notwith- 
 standing it is very common here, has been taken notice of 
 by very few authors. Dr. Grew, who firft defcribed this 
 fofiil, ftyles it the ft ar red waxen vein, from its being found Starred 
 
 Waxen Vein. 
 
 on the feptaria, or ludi helmontii, to which he had given 
 the name of waxen vein. Doctor Woodward gives it the 
 fame title ; and Doclor Hill, that of lepajlrum and trichef- 
 trum : for there are two varieties ; the firft derived from 
 rp<%6?, hairs, and «V^, a ftar ; the other from \e7rag, a fcale, 
 and «Yw, both being radiated like a ftar : the lepaftrum cora- 
 pofed of broad diftinct rays ; the tricheftrum, of clofe 
 fibrous rays. Modern writers feem fcarcely acquainted with 
 thisfoffil, which comes nearer! to the gypfum crystallizatum 
 of Cronfted, Seel. xix. b. c. 
 
 M 2 
 
 They 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 They are always found affixed to the fepta of the feptaria, 
 when they fo far divide as to permit thefe bodies to fhoot 
 and form •> hut are always obferved to be mo ft numerous on 
 the fmoother fepta^ or partitions, than on thofe which are 
 cryftallized. Their fize is very different, according to the 
 fpace they had to moot in, and time they had to form. I 
 collected of all the various dimeniions, from lefs than a 
 quarter of an inch to two inches and a half in diameter ; 
 the largeft tricheftrum being of that fize ; the largeft le- 
 pr aft rum about an inch and a half. 
 
 They feem to be of recent formation. I collected a 
 whole feries of them, from their firft attempt to form to a 
 complete ftar. On breaking a large Indus, one of the fepta 
 was obferved to be covered with minute fhoots, fome com- 
 pofed of only a Ungle ray, others of two, others again of 
 three, juft beginning to expand, and attempt a radiation, 
 
 Thefe fmall ones were all white and opake ; and as the 
 extremes of feveral of the largeft are fo too, it may be pre- 
 fumed that when frefh and purer matter protrudes thefe tti- 
 cheftula forward, the prime\al fhoots ftill fubftft, and form 
 the extremities of the larger in their more advanced age. — 
 The matter they confift of feems to be various, being moft 
 probably a compofed body of cryftal and felenite : they cer- 
 tainly 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 tainly are indebted to the latter for the regular fhape of 
 the radii in the lepaftra, which in miniature emulate the 
 form of the columnar felenitcz ; and as the cliffs abound 
 with the laft, it is no ram conjecture to fay that they par- 
 take of their fubftance ; and that they are united with 
 cryftal appears from the great brittlenefs of the ftars, their 
 inflexibility, and the little alteration they fuftain in the fire, 
 
 in comparifon of the felenita, which turn to a pure white 
 powder, and are fiffile and flexible. 
 
 The fpecies, or rather varieties of thefe foffils are as fol- 
 lows : 
 
 i ft, A pellucid ftar, the radii columnar, much flatted 
 on two of their oppofite fides, fharp pointed, pellucid, and 
 diverging from each other. 
 
 2d, Others of a pale yeliowifti colour, with a caft of 
 green mooting like the former. 
 
 3d, Some with their extremities white and opake, feem- 
 ingly debafed with white bole or earth. 
 
 4th, Other fpecimens confifted of numerous fine fibrous 
 radii (the trichtftra of Hill), as if mixed with fome amian^ 
 
 thine 
 
86 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 thine or asbeftine matter. Thefe formed a thicker body than 
 the others. The ends were alfo terminated with white. 
 
 5th, Others form, from the feptum they adhere to, a he- 
 mifpherical body, the radii tending upwards, and only the 
 white extremities appearing. 
 
 6th, Some incomplete, (landing on their points from the 
 feptum they grow to, forming the figure of a pencil of rays 
 to rlmfh their radiation. 
 
 7 th, Some completely radiated, but fo thinly fpread as 
 nearly to cover the feptum. 
 
 Laftly, Such as are formed on the ferruginous cruftated 
 ludi are tinged with ruft colour ; others fpotted with green 
 
 marcafite. 
 
 The number in each Indus is uncertain, fome havinor more 
 than twenty, others of different growths and fizes, from 
 one to fix on each talus. 
 
 Petri fied Abundance of petrified wood is found in the cliffs, or on 
 
 Wood. , n • r r i 
 
 the lhores. It is met with, generally, in form or large 
 nodules, about two feet long, covered with a hard clayey 
 
 3 cruft > 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 8 7 
 
 cruft, after the manner of the ludi helmontii. Some are 
 wholly petrified, but retain the appearance and grain of oak : 
 others are, properly fpeaking, only foflil wood, which, not- 
 withstanding it is immerfed in ftone, ftill remains unaltered. 
 Some fpecimens of the firft are cracked, or divided into tali, 
 like the feptaria ; and the fides of the tali covered with 
 yellow fparry fepta. Others, again, are entirely filled with 
 pyritical matter ; appear either in large mafTes, or in the 
 form of flender twigs, or the remains of fmall branches. 
 
 But almoft all the greater mafTes are perforated like the 
 bottoms of worm-eaten mips ; they were, in a recent ftate, 
 penetrated by the teredo navalis, whofe tubes ftill remain 
 very perfect, fome even at prefent lined with a fhelly cruft, 
 others with a wax-like fparry cruft. Dr. Grew ftyles this 
 foflil the piped waxen vein ; Dr. Woodward, the lapis fy- Lapis Syrin- 
 
 rri* i goides. 
 
 ringoides tabulis refertus \ he gueiies the pipes to be an ag- 
 gregated vermiculi marini, caught up into thefe mafTes in the 
 time of the Deluge ; and notwithftanding he compares the 
 texture of fome of the mafTes to that of wood, he over- 
 looks their real origin, which may be difcovered in the 
 bottom of moft fhips that have lately arrived from a long 
 refidence in hot climates, or indeed any timber that has re- 
 mained long under water in our own. For example, my own 
 Cabinet has a fpecimen of wood thus perforated by the te- 
 redo, 
 
88 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 redo, which had been part of a mooring in the river Med- 
 way, and lain there between two and three hundred years ; 
 and a comparifon of this with the foflil body puts the mat- 
 ter out of doubt. 
 
 Fruits, Nuts, Vaft variety of fruits, nuts, ftones, or feeds, are found on 
 ' ' the mores of this iflan d, warned out of the cliffs : they are 
 filled with pyritical matter, and foon fall to pieces ; there- 
 fore can only be preferved by accurate drawings. We are 
 greatly indebted to Dr. Parfons for two plates of very exact 
 defigns of thefe foffils : but that is not the only obligation 
 the lovers of Natural Hiftory owe that Gentleman : for his 
 labours enrich as well as do honour to feveral of the later 
 volumes of our Tranfa&ions. The following is a lift of 
 fome which are preferved in the Philofophical Trans- 
 actions, Vol. L. 
 
 Tab. XV. Fig. 1. 3. Figs. 
 
 2. Myrabolam. 
 
 4. Phafeolus fructibus fplendentibus nigris. 
 
 8. Semen cucurbitae, an American fpecies. 
 
 9. Coffee-berries. 
 10, it. Beans. 
 
 13. Staphylodendron. 
 
 14. Arachidna. 
 
On 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER- 
 
 89 
 
 15. An Acorn. 
 
 18. Angria. 
 
 19. Plumb-ftone. 
 
 22. Lacryma Jobi. 
 
 23. Cherry-ftone. 
 XVI. 1. Euonymi Species. 
 
 2. Sapindus, or Soap-tree. 
 
 3. Huraegerman, Sand-box-tree. 
 
 4. A Mango-ftone. 
 
 5. Euonymi Species. 
 7. Small long bean. 
 
 9. American horfe chefnut. 
 12. Palmae Species. 
 17. Foreign Walnut. 
 21. Long American Phafeolus. 
 
 c. Cocculus Indicus. 
 
 It would be an endlefs attempt to enumerate the different Animal Re- 
 mains. 
 
 fpecies of animal remains which are warned out of thefe 
 cliffs, numbers of which have fallen under my notice, or are 
 enumerated by Mr. Jacob\ Catalogue, printed at the end 
 of his Catalogue of Plants, publifhed in 1777. Among 
 many others were the thigh bones, tufks and grinders of an 
 elephant ; two fpecies of tortoifes ; the heads and tails of 
 fifties, teeth and vertebras both belonging to different fpecies 
 
 N Of 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER; 
 
 of fharks ; palates of fifti, of the kind called by Llwyd, 
 fcopulce littorales ; parts of the body of fifties, with great 
 fcales ; lobfters and crabs very frequent ; and fhells, of num- 
 bers of fpecies ; among others, a very curious kind of nau- 
 tilus^ the fame with the fpecies defcribed and engraven by 
 Dr. Grew, under the title of the mailed Jailer. 
 
 Among the rarer plants of this ifland are to be reckoned 
 the 
 
 Salicornia fruticofa. 
 
 
 Bupleurum tenuiflimum, 
 
 Perkins, 578. 
 
 Statice limonium, 
 
 Fl. Dan. 315. 
 
 Linum anguftifolium, 
 
 Chis. Hift. 1 318. 
 
 Glomeratum, 
 
 Withering. 1 1 1, 648. 
 
 Ruppia maritima, 
 
 Fl. Dan. 364. 
 
 Juncus acutus, 
 
 Perkins, 1192. 
 
 Euphorbia paralias, 
 
 Gerard, 498. 
 
 Cochlearia Anglica, 
 
 Ger. 401. 
 
 Bunias Cakele, 
 
 Ger. 248. 
 
 Trifoleum Scabrum, 
 
 Ger. 567. 
 
 Zoftera maritima, 
 
 Fl. Dan. 15. 
 
 Chelidonium Glaucium, 
 
 Ger. 367. 
 
 To thefe I may add, that I paffed over, in the chalk- 
 pits, 
 
1 
 
/ 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. gi 
 
 pits, near Grave/end, the Refeda Lutea, Gerard, 277 ; and, 
 about Purfleety the Alopecurus Ariftatus of the fame old 
 Botanift, 88. 
 
 To depart from the Eaft of the Swale it is neceflary to 
 crofs it at Harty Ferry. Before the reign of Edward I. Harty Ferry. 
 it appears that there had been a bridge, called Tremfeth 
 Bridge, which was carried away by a violent inundation, 
 and the channel rendered fo deep as to make the founding 
 of a new one quite impracticable. The inhabitants, who 
 had before the charge of repairing, now maintain two fer- 
 ries, which fupply its place. 
 
 A little beyond the ferry, on the fide of Eajl Swale is 
 Creek Mouth. This leads to the ancient town of Feverjloam, Creek. Mouth. 
 and, fince heland\ time, is capable of bearing veffels of 
 eighty tons quite to the town, inftead of twenty, as was 
 the cafe in the days of that great topographer. 
 
 Feverjham was fo noted, in the time of Alfred, as to give Feversham. 
 title to the Hundred; and, in 930, it was large enough to 
 entertain King Athelfian, and all his Council, affemblcd here 
 to eltablifh falutary laws for the benefit of the realm. It is 
 a Corporation by prefcription. The freemen elected the 
 
 n 2 Mayor, 
 
92 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 Mayor, and prefented him to the Abbot, who was Lord of 
 - the Manor, for his approbation. 
 
 Monastery. The Monaftery was founded in 1147, King Stephen, 
 and his Queen, Matilda of Boulogne, for Monks of Clugni, 
 who aftewards were changed for BenediStines. At the difTo- 
 lution its revenues were found to amount to 286L 12s. 6d. 
 a year. The fite was granted to Sir Thomas Cheney. In 
 the Church were interred the Royal founders, and their fe- 
 cond fon Euflace, a youth of fierce and ungovernable paf- 
 fions : in a fury at being thwarted in his ambition of fuc- 
 ceeding to the throne of England, he went to Bury St. 
 Edmund, and demanded from the Monks a fum of money 
 to promote his defigns. This was refufed, when his rage 
 prompted him to fet fire to the corn fields. Immediately 
 after he was feized with a frenzy, and died in 1 151, in that 
 deplorable ftate. At the difTolution their tombs were vio- 
 lated, and the coffin of Stephen, for fo fmall a value as 
 the lead, was defpoiled of its duff, which was flung into 
 the next puddle. 
 
 The fmall remains of the Abbey is part of a building 
 ufed as a barn, and the gateway. I doubt whether the laft 
 
 exifts, unlefs in the drawing given by Mr. Jacob. Onfome 
 
 wainfcot, 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 93 
 
 wainfcot, in a houfe near the gate, are preferved certain 
 carvings, reprefenting the profiles of Stephen and Matilda ; 
 of Stephen in a boat drawn by a fwan, with a battle-axe in 
 his hand ; and the figure of a Centaur difcharging an arrow 
 from his bow. It feems Stephen was born in December, 
 under the influence of Sagittarius ; fo took that fign for 
 his device. 
 
 The other religious houfe was fo near the town that I Poor Nuns of 
 cannot avoid the mention. Fulk de Newnham, in 1153, Davenham - 
 founded here a Nunnery for twenty-fix fitters and a 
 Priorefs ; but fo poorly were they endowed that they got the 
 name of the Poor Nuns of Davenham. Part of the origi- 
 nal Church remains eafily diftinguifhable by the round or 
 Saxon ftyle in the door and windows. 
 
 When I viflted this town, April 23, 1777, I was moft 
 kindly received by that worthy old gentleman, Mr. Edward 
 jfacob, furgeon : he walked with me to point out whatever 
 was worthy my attention. He fhewed me the houfe of 
 Mr. Edward Ardern> who was moft execrably murdered Horrid Mur_ 
 there by his wife, and a number of infamous afiailins, in Ardern. 
 1550, who were all brought to moft merited juftice. The 
 whole ftory, and all the leading circumftances, are moft cu- 
 rioufly related by the exacl: Holinjhed* . 
 
 He 
 
 * Hoi. Chron. II. p. 1062, 
 
94 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 He mewed me the Royal Powder-mills, which do a vaft 
 deal of builnefs. He told me profeflionably, that the 
 workmen were often dreadfully burnt ; that they recover 
 for a little time, but are foon feized with a fuppuration, 
 and die of a decay or an atrophy. 
 
 He brought me to fee a very good three-quarters por- 
 trait of Doctor Plot, the learned author of the Hiftories of 
 Staffordjhire and Oxfordjhire. He was born at Bordek, 
 near Sittingbourn^ in this county ; and finimed his days at 
 the place of his birth in 1696. He is reprefented fitting 
 in his Doctor of Laws* gown, a great wig, cravat and 
 ruffles. 
 
 James ii. ^ was to tkis town that our fugitive Monarch, yames II. 
 
 was conveyed prifoner after he was feized on board a fmall 
 veflel off Shelnefs, on December *i 2, 1688. He was plun- 
 dered of about three hundred pounds, and two medals ; one 
 of great curiofity, being {truck on the birth of his fon, af- 
 terwards fo well known by the name of the Pretender, — 
 His rank was not known till he reached Fever/ham, where 
 he was acknowledged as King, and treated with refpect ; 
 for, before, he had met with very indecent ufage from the 
 rabble that had feized his perfon. His return to Whitehall, 
 hii fecond flight from thence to Shelnefs, from whence he 
 
 took 
 
 SEIZED HERE. 
 
/ 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 95 
 
 took his final leave of thefe kingdoms, are fa£ts fo well 
 known as not to require repetition. 
 
 What the forced vilit of this Royal gueft might coft the Singular En- 
 
 r 1 • TERTAINMENTS. 
 
 Corporation, I am lert to learn. But when the Emperor, 
 Charles V, and the King's Highnefs, He?try VIII. called 
 here in 1522, in their way to London, the expence was 
 Si. 3s. 3d. and at the fame time for a gallon of wine to the 
 Archbifhop, one pilling. 
 
 In the records of the town are, befides, the following cu- 
 rious articles : 
 
 1515, Paid for brede and wine given to the Queen of France 074 
 
 15 1 8, To entertain my Lord Chief Juftice - - 009 
 
 1519, For fpiced bFede and wine to the Lord Archbimop 054 
 For fpiced brede, wine, and bere and ale, to the King 
 
 and Queen - - - - 165I 
 
 For fpiced brede, wine and capons, to my LordCardinal 018 9 
 
 This laft article evinces the character of Wolfey^ who is 
 treated here with an expence and luxury proportionably fu- 
 perior to that of his Royal Mafter and Miftrefs. The Cor- 
 poration knew his pride, and would not provoke his revenge 
 by the leaft fymptom of difrefpecl:. 
 
 The 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 The export of corn, of different kinds, in plentiful years, 
 has amounted to forty thoufand quarters. There are, be- 
 fides, two other more uncommon articles of commerce, 
 which bring in a confiderable fum. The one is the plant 
 Madder, the rubia tinElorum of hinnceus, which was firft 
 cultivated in England in the year 1597; but it grows wild 
 in many places. Gerard noted it about St. Vincent's 
 Rocks, near BrifioL It was firft introduced into Kent in 
 1660, by Nicholas Crifpe, who made a trial of it at Dart- 
 ford ; and it is now cultivated with fuccefs at both places. 
 The procefs of cultivation, drying the roots, and preparing 
 them for the dyers is amply given (together with a very 
 good figure of the plant) under the article Rubia, in the 
 fecond volume of Miller s Gardener s Diclionary. The 
 great ufe is the dyeing of reds and violets. Pliny fpeaks of 
 it as excellent for the dyeing of wool and leather ; the beft, 
 fays he, was the Italian, and that cultivated near towns, 
 and which has, to this day, been found requifite for the con- 
 veniency of manure. 
 
 Camden, in his Life of Queen Elizabeth, informs us, 
 that in the year 1583, that illuftrious Princefs, by procla- 
 mation, forbade the fowing of this plant within eight miles 
 of any of her Highnefs's houfes, or within four miles of 
 any cities or towns where clothing was ufed. The caufe 
 
 2 alTigned 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 97 
 
 affigned was, that fo much arable land and rich pafturage was 
 applied to that purpofe, as greatly to injure the clothiers and 
 countrymen, who fed on white meats made of milk. 
 
 Oyjlers form the other article of commerce. Thefe may Oysters. 
 be alfo faid to be cultivated, and fown ; for Nature having 
 denied to the neighbouring fea, beds of extent fufficient to 
 anfwer the demands of the public, in fome places the 
 fpawn of the oyfters, which is depofited in form of a drop 
 of tallow upon the ftones, is brought, and I may fay fown, 
 in proper places ; and often the brood, or young oyfters, 
 are fought after, even from the hand 's End to the coafts of 
 Scotland, brought here, and depofited in the fea, and par- 
 ticularly near the Eftuaries of the Thames and the Medway^ 
 in order to increafe and be meliorated, by being in fome 
 degree frefhened by the conftant flow of the waters of thofe 
 two great rivers. 
 
 Here are a company of Dredgers, governed by falutary Company of 
 
 Dredgers. 
 
 laws, and amenable to Courts appointed by the Lord of the 
 Manor. I his Company was eftablimed in the reign of 
 Henry IL ; and fince that, their bounds or right of fiiliing 
 have been prefcribed. Above a hundred families are fup- 
 ported by this bufinefs. The Dutch are their principal cuf- 
 tomers. Eleven thoufand four hundred and fifty- fix 
 
 o bufhels, 
 
9 8 
 
 *ROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 bufhels, valued at 3 3 99I. have been in one year exported 
 to Holland^ in thirty- one veffels. Milton, on the adjacent 
 Swale, has its mare of the bufinefs ; as has Rochefler y 
 where the Dredgers are fubjecT: to laws fimilar to thofe juft 
 mentioned ; and Colchefier, in Effex, is alfo noted for its 
 excellent oyfters ; they are brougt from the nurferies in the 
 neighbouring mores, to be fold in the capital of the county. 
 Rather than weary my reader with the repetition of my 
 own works, I make free to refer him to my account, No. 69, 
 of the fourth volume of my BritiJJj Zoology* I may 
 mention here, as a kind of prodigy, that the very fingular 
 fifh, the Mold Salviani, or fhort Diodon, Br. Zool. III. 
 No. 55, ftrayed into the neighbouring 'Thames, and was 
 there taken. It was a fmall fpecimen, not weighing twenty 
 pounds. 
 
 From the Creek-mouth the land takes a flight foutherly 
 curvature, and extends eaflwardly, and bends to the North, 
 where it forms a cape at Whitftable-ftreet , that runs almoft 
 due Eaft to the noted Recuher. The whole is low marfhy 
 land, as far as Swale Cliff, about feven miles from Fever- 
 fiam. At Swale Cliff commences a range of cliffs, compofed 
 of a loofe mattery mould, between earth and fand. Thefe 
 extend about feven miles, and finilli with the Roman flation 
 Reculver. of Regulbium, the modern Recuher, and the Raculf-cefter 
 
 of 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 of the Saxons. Mr. Batteley y with much reafon, derives it 
 from the Britifh Rkag, before, and Gwylfa, a watch; from 
 which the Romans latinifed it into Regulbium. The fitua- 
 tion befpeaks the original ufes, being admirably well feated 
 for a Specula^ or watch- tower, as it commanded a moft ex- 
 tenfive view to the Eaft and to the Weft. It alfo commanded 
 the Nord-muth, or Tenlade ; the northern entrance into the 
 Eftuary, which then divided the IJle of Thanet from the 
 main land ; as Rutupium, or Rkhborough y did the Southern. 
 There were two Rutupice ; this was one, and Richborough 
 the other ; but, when fpoken of fingly, was called Rutu- 
 pitim^ an irregularity that fometimes occurs. The learned 
 Batteley, p. 49, fuppofes, from Regulbium being only men- 
 tioned in the Notitia^ that the original name was Rutupice. 
 
 This ftation, when entire, comprehended above eight 
 acres of ground. The precinct was a wall, inclofing an 
 exact fquare ; but the North llde is almoft totally warned 
 away by the depredation of the fea. Yet, in the time of 
 Leland^ it Itood perhaps half a modern mile from the water. 
 Here was ftationed, in the time of the Notitia^ a Tribune 
 of the fir ft Cohort of the Vetafu. Multitudes of Roman 
 coins, and inftruments of different kinds, are continually 
 found within the walls, which evince its original pofieftbrs. 
 
 o 2 
 
 On 
 
ICO 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 On the Pudding-pan-fand, off Reculver, (reckoning about 
 feventy years ago,) great numbers of pieces of Roman 
 earthen- ware have at different times been dredged up, and 
 others nearer the (bore, brought there by the fury of the 
 winds. Much has been written on this fubjecl:, which may 
 readily be reduced to the {imple facl:, that a Roman velTel, 
 laden with pottery, was wrecked on this fand : here the bulk 
 of the cargo is ftill found ; and what lies fcattered nearer the 
 fhores are only the parts disjoined, as I explain. The Ro- 
 mans } at the time of this wreck, might ferve the world with 
 earthen- ware, as our Wedgewood does at prefent ; who may 
 boaft, as Pliny did of the wares of his country, " Per maria 
 terrafque aliro citroque portantur" The opinion that they 
 were made on the fpot feems not well founded. On the 
 pots are the names of above fifteen Roman potters : fuch 
 a number could never have lived within fo fmall a compafs ; 
 neither is it probable that the Pan-fand, between feven or 
 eight miles diftant from the more, could at that time have 
 been folid land. 
 
 About two hundred and twenty- fix years after the defer- 
 tion of Britain by the Romans, a very different race of peo- 
 ple polTefTed themfelves of the walls of Reculver. Egbert, 
 King of Kent, in 669, prefented the place to Bajfa, a Noble- 
 man of his Court, at that time in holy orders. Here he 
 
 founded 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 IO'E 
 
 founded a Monastery, which continued till the year 949, Monastery. 
 when it was annexed by King Edred to Chrift Church in 
 Canterbury. The Church is far from being coeval, the 
 windows and doors being Gothic, and the door- cafe made of 
 Caen ftone, which was not imported till after the Conqueft. 
 Ethelbert, the fifth King of Kent, had a palace here. The 
 tradition of his being interred on this fpol is erroneous ; 
 for, according to Bede, he died in 613, and was buried in 
 St. Paul's, in London. In his time happened the g eat event 
 of the landing of St. Augufiine on the eafl part of the Ijle 
 of Thanet, in 596. He was fent by Pope Gregory the 
 Great, to preach the gofpel to the Pagan Saxons. The 
 reafon which induced his Holinefs to fend Augufiine is 
 pleafantly related by the Author of the Life of Gregory, be- 
 ing a firing of diverting puns. Our Saint landed with forty 
 companions, and was gracioufly received by Ethelbert in the 
 open air. The King did not know but that they might have 
 been magicians ; and it is notorious that the force of magic 
 lofes much of its power fub dio. But they foon undeceived 
 the Monarch. Augufiine quickly eftablimed himfelf molt 
 effectually : the monaftic life got firm footing ; nor was it 
 expelled but by the powerful charms of the Tyrant of the 
 lixteenth century. 
 
 The two fteeple towers, terminating in fpires, are the Two Steepl 
 
 moil 
 
102 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 mod remarkable parts of the pile, and not the leaft ufeful, 
 being guides to the navigators up the perilous channel. I 
 was in a carriage when I viflted the neighbourhood of Re- 
 culver^ and was told that the road was imparTable. Moft 
 of what I have faidis from the report of two worthy friends, 
 the late Reverend Mr. John Cullum, as good and amiable a 
 character as any of his time, and the ingenious Mr. Boys, 
 of Sandwich, 
 
 In my road from Fever/ham to the IJle ofThanet, I left, to 
 Herne. the north, two places which merit mention — Heme, the pa- 
 rifh of which the martyred Bifhop Ridley had been Vicar. — 
 The Church is a large and ftrong pile, with Gothic win- 
 dows ; and within, a remarkable brafs of John Darley, B. D. 
 Vicar of this Church, and an infcription, which tells us, 
 
 " Hie pater morum fuit, et fios philofophorum." 
 
 Another is of a Lady Philip, wife of Sir Matthew Philip, 
 Lord Mayor of London in 1463 : fhe is in the drefs of her 
 time, with a vaft rofary pendant from her waifl. Her huf- 
 band was honoured with the Order of the Bath at the 
 Coronation of Elizabeth, Queen to Edward IV. He was 
 again knighted in the field, in 1471 ; I imagine that of 
 Barnet ; for he marched dire&ly from London to that 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 103 
 
 bloody action, attended by the citizens, who had greatly be- 
 friended the houfe of York, 
 
 Ford flood nearer my road, partly in the parifh of Chijlet. FoRD - 
 It was the moft ancient palace belonging to the See of Can- 
 terbury , beftowed by Ethelbert, King of Kent. The laft 
 Prelate who refided there was Abbot, who, during his dis- 
 grace in 1627, was permitted to make this his retreat. In 
 1658 it was demolifhed, and the materials fold. 
 
 I crofted into the IJle of Thanet at Sarre, by a fmall Sarre. 
 bridge flung over the Wantfume, now little more than a 
 ditch, and the only relique of the Eftuary which, in the ancient 
 time of Solinus, divided Thanet from the main land. He is EsTUAJiY 
 the flrfl: who mentions the Thanatos infula a Britannice con- 
 tinenti cestuario tenui feparata. In the time of the venera- 
 ble Bede, it was three furlongs broad, which is not very fhort 
 of half a mile, and difcharged itfelf into the fea at the two 
 extremities, and was paftable by a ferry at two places, which 
 were Sarre and Sandenwic, or Sandwich.. This Eftuary 
 was, for many centuries, the common way, not only for 
 fmall veffels, but whole fleets, from Sandwich to London. — 
 The reader need not be wearied with many proofs. Harold, 
 in 1 052, failed through this channel with his fleet, from Sand- 
 wich, and palled through the North Muthan to our capital. 
 
 Even 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Even as late as the year 15 81, we have, on the evidence of 
 Twine, who died in that year, proof of its being navigable, 
 not only by boats, but large and loaden vefTels : this he gives 
 on the teftimony of eight credible men, then living, and 
 who allured him of the fact. I cannot trace the time in 
 which this pafTage was obftrueted and choaked up ; but 
 Twines account of its having been open a little before his 
 days, proves that the period of its ruin lias been far ante- 
 dated by the feveral writers who have treated on the fubjedl. 
 
 Products of The IJle of Thanet, to this day, preferves the character 
 
 Thanet. 
 
 given it by Solinus, of its great fertility. The produce is 
 wheat, barley, beans, peafe, red and white clover, faint- 
 foin, tares, turnips, radifhes for feed, trefoil, and kidney- 
 beans, and variety of feeds for the ufe of the gardeners 
 about London : all this was owing to the induftry of the 
 Dutch and Flemings, who fled in the reign of Queen Eli- 
 zabeth^ in the Duke of Alvas perfecution. They origi- 
 nally fixed themfelves in the neighbourhood of Sandwich, 
 wifely dividing themfelves among places adapted to their 
 feveral occupations. There the gardeners found a fertile 
 foil and a navigable river. They were the firfl who intro- 
 Canary Seed, duced the canary grafs (Phalaris Canarienfis), Schreber 
 Gram. 83, tab. x. Gerard, 86, into this country ; and it 
 now is cultivated with great profit in the IJle of Thanet. — 
 
 After 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 After a fummerland, i. e. a fallow, the produce is expected 
 to be about five quarters of feed per acre ; this fells, one 
 year with another, at fifty fhillings a quarter : it has been 
 fold more than once at iol. yet is only ufed for the food of 
 birds, but then the offal is excellent food for horfes. This 
 grafs is a native of the Canary Iiles, where it grows wild 
 among the corn, and is there called alpijle. It is alfo natu- 
 ralized in the fouthern provinces of Spain , and cultivated, 
 as with us, for the fake of the feed. 
 
 The ifland (now improperly fo called) is about nine miles Size of 
 long. It contains (including Stonar) above twenty thoufand 
 acres of arable and pafture land : the furface is flightly un- 
 dulated, and, except about the villages, deftitute of trees. 
 The north coaft, from Cliffs-end, quite round the North 
 Foreland \ to another Cliffs- end near Pegwell, is a range of 
 chalky precipices, continually zigzag'd or indented, of a moft 
 mattery texture, and falling in vaft fragments, as a£ted on by 
 the waves and weather. 
 
 I crofTed the illand obliquely to Margate, about eight 
 miles diftant from Sarre. Within a mile from the former 
 I turned out of the road to the left to fee Dent de Lion, or, Dent de Lk 
 as it is vulgarly named, Daun-delion, This had been the 
 feat of a family of the fame name, owners of it at leafl 
 
 p from 
 
io6 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 from the time of Edward L It became extinct in the male 
 line in the reign of Edward IV. when, by the marriage of 
 the daughter and heirefs of John Dandelion, it pafTed to the 
 Petits. The place and eftate is now divided among differ- 
 ent proprietors. A venerable gate is ftill left. The en- 
 trance is beneath a Gothic portal. At the four corners is a 
 very handfome fquare tower, made of alternate rows of 
 flints and bricks. The arms of the original owners are over 
 the gate ; and at one corner a demi-lion, with the word 
 Dandelion ilTuing out of its mouth. 
 
 Margate. From this place I defcended to the town of Margate, or, 
 more properly, Mar-gate, as terminating in a gap or open- 
 ing to the fea ; Gate being here a general name for fimilar 
 approaches to the water. The town ftands upon a tide- 
 harbour, where, at high water, the tide flows fifteen feet : 
 the (hipping are protected -by a wooden jettee, and lie dry 
 at the ebb, on a muddy bottom ; much of which, with the 
 fea-weed, is carried away, and, mixed with chalk, ufed for 
 manure. Lofty cliffs rife on each fide of this little port. 
 
 Leland fays, that in his time here was " a peere for 
 fhyppes, but now fore decayed." Yet, in the reign of 
 Edward III. when that gallant Prince called forth the 
 naval force of his kingdom to cover the fiege of Calais, 
 
 Mar- 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Margate alone furnifhed fifteen fhips, manned with a hun- 
 dred and fixty mariners, being a proportion fhort only by 
 one lhip of that of Dover itfelf. 
 
 The Church is remarkable for little more than fome brafs 
 memorials of the dead. Among others is one of the John 
 Daundelton before mentioned, who died in 1445 ; and ano- 
 ther of a Henry Petit, who died in 1599. 
 
 The fafhionable paffion for fea-hathing has occafioned a 
 vaft expenfe in buildings, a little detached from the old 
 town. There is the beginning of a handfome Place, with a 
 fine AfTembly-room, and other conveniences for entertaining 
 company, in the centre. Here is alfo the Circulating Li- 
 brary, or, as it is affedtedly called, a Bookfeller's mop, of 
 uncommon magnificence ; and a large and moft convenient 
 Theatre. I was told that twenty thoufand pounds were now 
 in expenditure for the more effectual promotion of luxury 
 and dillipation amidft the good citizens of our capital. — 
 This is the neareft place of the kind ; but from hence to 
 Teignmouth) an extent of full two hundred and £.ky miles, is 
 a fuccefiion of others, at very fmall intervals ; all of them 
 crowded during the feafon. 
 
 After leaving Margate I paffed over Northdown, a moll 
 
 p 2 naked 
 
io8 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 naked country. A little farther are Hackendown banks ? 
 two large tumuli^ containing the remains of the flam in a 
 Battle in 853, fierce battle fought here in 853, between the Danes and the 
 
 BETWEEN THE 
 
 Danes and Kentijh-men under Ralhere^ and the Surry-me7t under 
 Huda : at firfb the Saxons were victorious ; numbers were 
 flain, and the leaders on both fides fell ; and as the battle 
 was near the edge of the precipices, numbers were forced 
 Tumuli, down, and periflied in the fea. In 1743 one of the tumuli 
 was opened ; and a little below the furface, cut in the folid 
 chalk, were feveral graves, about three feet long, into 
 which the bodies had been thrufl, bent almoft double : with 
 them were found urns made of a coarfe earthen-ware, filled 
 with afhes and charcoal ; the urns fell to duft on being ex- 
 pofed to the air. Thefe graves were covered with flat 
 (tones. The lelfer tumulus was opened in 1765 : the fame 
 kind of graves were found in it, but none of the urns which 
 were obferved in the greater. 
 
 From this form of interment it is evident that the Danes 
 kept the field of battle, and performed the funebrial duties 
 to their flain after their own manner : the Chriftians having 
 renounced the cuftom of burning the dead, and of urn- 
 burial. 
 
 In a hollow is a gate leading to the fea, once called St. 
 
 Bar- 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 10 
 
 Bartholomew' s y now King's Gate, in memory of the landing King's Gate 
 of Charles 77. and his brother the Duke of York, June 30, 
 
 1683. 
 
 In the dreary concave of this gate, Henry Lord Holland 
 built an elegant villa, as is faid, in imitation of the Villa 
 Formiana of Cicero. As his Lordfhip was an excellent 
 claflic, he certainly muft know he could not boaft of the 
 beauties and advantages of the retirement of the Ro?nan 
 orator, but might truly fay, 
 
 Mea nec Falernze 
 Temperant vites, neque Formianse 
 Pocula colles. 
 
 Not a tree is to be feen in all the extent of the adjacent 
 downs, which, inftead of groves, or verdant clumps, are 
 dotted with buildings of flints, in numbers of fantaftic forms, 
 ruined caltles, towers, pyramids, and other ftruclures, me- 
 morials of ancient events. 
 
 The villa is certainly a beautiful piece of architecture. — 
 In the front, is a large Doric portico : the houfe is low, con- 
 filling of only the ground floor ; the apartments numerous ; 
 but mofl of them, except the faloon, fmall. They are 
 
 crowded 
 
 Villa of 
 Henry, Lor 
 Holland. 
 
I 10 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 crowded with ftatues, bufts, bas-relieves, vafes, and various 
 other antiquities brought from Italy. On an ancient altar, 
 once devoted to JEfculapius, his Lordfhip thought fit to 
 renew the like devotion to the God of Health, in this form: 
 
 Ob falutem iu Italia 
 Anno 1767 recuperatam, 
 Hanc columnam, 
 Olim D. JEfculapio facram, 
 Nunc iterum donat dedicatquc 
 HOLLAND. 
 
 Among other bufts is a modern one of Thomas Wynne, Efq. 
 fon of the late Sir John Wynne, Bart, of Glynllivon in 
 Caernarvonjloire, and fince created Lord Newborongh. To 
 him was attributed the defign of this beautiful villa. — 
 Every thing about the houfe (hews fymptoms of neglect. 
 After the death of Lord Holland, Powel, a creature of his, 
 the unhappy fuicide, was the oftenfible owner : now the 
 owner is fcarcely known ; but it is .c't, during the feafon of 
 bathing, to any ftranger who wifhes to make it his refidence. 
 
 It's yours, it's mine, it's CharlenYs, or the Devil's. 
 
 The fine octagcnal Light- houfe, built of flints in 1683, 
 ftands on the top of the Down : every Britijh fhip going 
 
 round 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 round the Foreland pays two-pence, and every foreign fhip 
 four-pence towards its fupport. The North Foreland ftands 
 at a fmall diftance beneath the Pharos. It was well known 
 to the Roman feamen by the name of Cant 2 urn Promontorium. 
 Notwithstanding the bleak height of thefe precipices, corn 
 grows to their very edge. 
 
 Off this promontory was fought, on July 25, 1666, one 
 of thofe obftinate engagements which the prefent times can 
 have a very faint idea of. The Englijh and Dutch , a very- 
 few weeks after the unparalleled fight of four days, ani- 
 mated with rival hatred, had again fitted out the great re- 
 mains of their mattered fleets. The Englijh had eighty 
 great mips ; the Dutch eighty-eight ; and each fleet at- 
 tended by numbers of fire-fhips, in thofe days engines of 
 mo ft ferious effects. The Englijh were commanded by 
 Prince Rupert and the Duke of Albermarle^ men of def- 
 perate valour, by Sir Thomas Allen and Sir Jeremy Smith. 
 The Dutch by De Ruyter, Evertzen, and Van Tromp. — 
 What an affemblage of heroes I After a mod: fierce and well- 
 contefted battle the Dutch gave way. It was the good for- 
 tune of Sir Thomas yillen, with the white fquadron, to be- 
 gin the fight. He flew Evertzen, his Vice Admiral De 
 VrieSy and Rear Admiral Koendaers. De Paiyter retired 
 in an agony of defpair: " What ! will not one," exclaimed 
 
 1 the 
 
I I 2 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 the gallant failor, " of the thoufand of balls that fly 
 round, put an end to my exigence!" Our victory was 
 complete : with great difficulty the Dutch got over their 
 banks and fhoals, out of our reach. We did not flop at this 
 fuccefs : in lefs than a fortnight we attacked and took al- 
 moft the whole of a rich fleet of a hundred and feventy mer- 
 chant mips lying in the Flie. We landed at Brandaris, on 
 the IJle of Rebelling^ burnt the town, which confined of fix 
 or feven hundred houfes ; carried off a fine pl.afure yacli 
 belonging to the States ; and, after injuring the enemy 10 
 the amount of at leaft twelve hundred thoufand pounds fter- 
 ling, returned triumphantly to our ports. 
 
 Trie land from Fairnefs, a little beyond Margate, keeps 
 winding towards the fouth-eaft till it reaches the North 
 Foreland, when it runs fouth-weff by fouth, as far as Ramf- 
 
 Broadstreet. gate. The village of Broad/lairs, or, more properly, Brad- 
 Jlow, ftands on a cliff, and has beneath a fmall pier for the 
 fhelter of the fi firing-boats and fmall veffels that belong to 
 the place. In 1656 here were only eighteen houfes: in 
 1759 fixty paid to the poor's tax. This increafe was ow- 
 ing to its engaging in the fifheries in the North Sea, and that 
 
 Engaced in of Iceland. In the year 1759 thirteen veffels failed for that 
 
 the Iceland - ^iii ri i J jli 
 
 Fishery. ifland, and made confiderable profit by the cod, and by the 
 oil extracted from the livers. The veffels are floops or brigs, 
 
 from 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 113 
 
 from fifty to eighty tons. They leave the IJIe of Thanet be- 
 tween the 13th and 24th of April, with four or five hands 
 and a boy ; put into Sunderland, or the Frith of Forth, 
 for a cargo of fait ; proceed to the Orkneys, where they 
 take in eight or ten hands, who are paid from one guinea to 
 five pounds each, according to their abilities in managing 
 the fifh : thofe that belong to the veffel have certain fhares, 
 according to their ranks. They leave the Orkneys in May, 
 and continue on the fiiliing grounds till the beginning of 
 September, and return home the fame month. They fifh on 
 the eaft fide of the ifland, in lat. 64 0 to 67 0 N. long. 12° 
 Weft, from three to twenty leagues diftant from the fhore, 
 near the rock called the Whale s Back : about five leagues 
 diftant from the eafl fide of the ifle, in lat. 64 0 25', long. 
 1 2 0 W. is the beft fifhing. 
 
 This commerce has declined confiderably fince 1759. — 
 In the year 1786, Broadjlairs fent fix floops, and Ramfgate 
 one brig. In the fame year one fhalop failed from Tar- 
 mouth, two floops from Peterhead, and from Aberdeen four 
 floops and one brig ; the lad: was of one hundred tons bur- 
 then. 
 
 Between the village of Broadflreei and the pier flood a Ancient Pgr- 
 Gcthic portal, with a ftrong wall of flint on each fide. In chapuT, 
 
 QL the 
 
ii4 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 the arch were ftrong gates and a portcullis, to prevent a 
 furprife from the plundering attack of pirates or privateers; 
 and a little above the gate was once a Chapel dedicated to 
 the Virgin, fo highly refpected in old times that vefftls, in 
 failing by, ufed to lower their top-fails in token of refpect. 
 
 Ramsgate. About two miles to the fouth-weft ftands Ramfgate, feated 
 along the fides of a narrow valley. It confifts of two 
 ftreets difpofed in form of a crofs, and opens, like Mar- 
 gate, bounded on each fide by chalky cliffs. It is a much 
 larger place, but equally reforted to for the benefit of bath- 
 ing. It (lands in the parifh of St. Laurence, The church 
 is feated on a hill about a mile from the town, adjoining 
 to a fmall village. 
 
 Ram/gate itfelf was no more than a poorfifhing place, till 
 about the year 1688, when it rofe by the fuccefs of its trade 
 with Ruffia and the Eaft country. But what juftly gives- 
 Magnificent great celebrity to this town is its ftupendous Mole, defigned 
 to give fhelter to fhips in hard gales of wind from the fouth- 
 eaft and the eaft-north-eafl, and to fave them from the 
 dreadful danger of the Downs. This magnificent work 
 was begun in 1750, at the inftance of the Merchants of 
 London. The affair was greatly agitated in the Houfe of 
 Commons ; but an Ad was obtained, and powers granted to 
 
 trufteesy 
 
FROM LONDON TO t)OVER 
 
 115 
 
 truftees, for borrowing money on the fecurity of a certain 
 duty per ton on all (hips entering the harbour. The fum of 
 above three hundred thoufand pounds has already been ex- 
 pended, and a work has been effected perhaps fupeiior in 
 point of elegance to any the prefent age can boaft. It con- 
 lifts of two piers, made of white Purbeck ftones, in breadth 
 twenty-fix feet, with a parapet wall towards the fea. One 
 fide extends eight hundred feet into the water ; the other is 
 not 'of fo great an extent : between both is admilTion for 
 mips. As this harbour is liable to be choaked by mud ; of 
 late years two inner piers have been conftructed to retain 
 the water, which is to be let out through certain flood-gates, 
 in order to remove that inconveniency. The harbour con- 
 tains a good depth of water, and the inhabitants boaft of a 
 fhip of five hundred tons having once found fecurity by 
 running in during a violent ftorm : but many perfons doubt 
 whether any art can prevent the harbour from filling, or a 
 bar being formed on the outfide. It is fome confolation that 
 in cafe fhips in diftrefs find it impoflible to enter the mouth 
 of this harbour, they may fafely run on fhore on the foft 
 chalk beneath the cliffs which bound the port on each fide. 
 A little beyond Ram/gate the land begins to trend for the 
 fpace of about two miles due weft ; the chalky cliffs finifh 
 at the two-mile-ftone, and the nature of the land changes 
 to a blueim clay. It now Hopes down to Peg-well bay, and 
 
 q_ 2 the 
 
116 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 the whole trad from herfce to Sandwich is wet, marfhy, an< 
 low. 
 
 After defcending into the flats, about two miles from 
 
 Saxons F l E an T d CU ff s End > a little to the ri g ht a PP ears Ebbs-fleet. This 
 there j place, fo celebrated in BritiJJj hiftory, is now diftinguifhed 
 only by a farm-houfe. Here landed the flrfl band of Saxons 
 under the conduct of Hengifl and Horfa, the fatal auxili- 
 aries of our imprudent Prince V ortigern^ the future con- 
 querors of our ifland. They landed in 449 ; the number of 
 their followers was only fifteen hundred, embarked in three 
 long mips. The name of Ebbs Fleet is called differently 
 by the Saxons ; at firft, Upwines- Fleet, and again Heops- 
 wines-Fleet , but it was fated for a ft ill far greater event. 
 
 as does St. Here, in 596, landed St. Auguftine, with his army of 
 Auuustin*, ^,j on k s ^ Well might one of the brethren exclaim, " Fcelix 
 " terra, fua faecunditate, fed fceliciffima tot Deiferorum ad- 
 " venarum, imo tot civium fupernorum hofpitio." 
 
 and St. Mil- Here, likewife, about the year 680, landed, on a rock 
 which ftill bears her name, St. Mildreda, one of the daugh- 
 ters of Merovaldy fon of King Penda. The ftone re- 
 ceived the imprcftion of her foot in ftepping out of the 
 veffel. 
 
 4 Angels 
 
 DREDA. 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Angels miniftered unto her ; and when the Devil blew out 
 her candle, they again reftored its light : me remained three 
 hours unhurt in a hot oven. I would not depreciate the 
 laft miracle ; but two Philofophers of the pre fen t time did 
 the fame uninjured ; and I doubt not, after the cuftomary 
 probation, St. Jofeph and St. Charles will fhine in the Ka- 
 le nd a r with their Salamandrine filter Mildreda. 
 
 One of thefe Philofophers bore a heat which raifed the 
 quickfilver above 21 1°, and, what was very ftrange, fweated 
 mod profufely. How fugacious is fame ! A young gentle- 
 man at Liverpool, who modeftly conceals his name, outdid 
 the London Shadrach, and bore the heat of 224 0 . The 
 fame learned annals relate the marvellous confequence of his 
 being much enfeebled by the experiment, and that he alfo 
 
 broke out into frequent perfpirations ! ! ! See Philofoph. 
 
 Tranf Vol. LXV. 111 to 123, and 463 to 469. 
 
 On IVetherley- hill, or Battle-hill, at a very fmall diftance 
 from Ebbs-Fleet, : was fought, in 465, a bloody battle be- Battle op 
 tween the Saxons under Hengifl and his fon J&fca, and the ^eet* DS 
 Britons, who were defeated with great daughter : the Sax- 
 onslofi. one of their < hieftains, named Wifped \ and from that 
 circumftance the field of battle was called JVyppedes fleet. 
 
 At 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 At the diftance of a mile and a half from Ebbs-fleet I 
 croflfed a bridge over Stonor-cut, which unites the two 
 winding branches of the Stonor 9 which here come within a 
 very fmall diftance of each other. On this canal is a Salt- 
 work, where that article is obtained by the ufual method of 
 evaporating the fait water by boiling. The trad from 
 hence to Sandwich flood in the parifh of Stonor, once moft 
 populous, till the town, which flood oppofite to the for- , 
 mer, was burnt by the French in 1385. In the time of 
 William Rufus it was a very conhderable place : they often 
 difputed their rights with the encroaching Abbot of St. 
 Augufline in Canterbury, and at length became members 
 of the Cinque Port of Sandwich. It never arofe after its 
 deflruclion by the French. In Leland's time the Church of 
 Stonor was in ruins. In 1569 Archbifhop Parker found 
 neither houfe nor communicants. 
 
 At this place certain antiquaries fuppofed the lapis tituli 
 to have flood, near which V or timer defeated the Saxons 
 with great Daughter, and drove the remainder to their (hips; 
 but, as Nennius places the fcene, Super ripam maris Gal- 
 licij at Fclflone, or fbme other eminence on the flrcights of 
 Dover. It could not have been the flats of StO.ior^ which, 
 befides, in thofe days, were covered with the fea. 
 
 On 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 119 
 
 Cn a riftng ground, to the weft of Stonor, ftand the re- 
 in 'i s of the celebrated Rutupice, or Richborough Caftle, 
 feated on an ele/ated ground, infulated by an extenfive 
 marfh, which at prefent feeds multitudes of fheep and 
 Welch cattle. This tract was once occupied by the fea, 
 wh'ch flowed almoft as high as Canterbury. Another 
 branch, that before mentioned under the name of the 
 Want fume, was the eftuary that infulated Thanet, and was, 
 as before related, a common paftage for mips, even of con- 
 fiderable burden, to the port of London, Rutupice Caftle 
 guarded one entrance of this {freight, as that of Regulbium- 
 did the other.. 
 
 Rutupice. ftood in a harbour called by the fame name, 
 Portus Rutulas, and Portus Rutupienjis, the beft known to 
 the Romans of any, and the firft they were acquainted 
 with ; for it is certain Ccefar landed within its limits. As 
 it lay moft convenient to the Portus Itius and Gejforiacum, 
 the common ports of France for palling and repairing be- 
 tween the two kingdoms* It was conftantly frequented, 
 even to the laft years of the Roman Empire in Britain. — 
 Lupicinus, Mafter of Arms, failed here in the year 360, 
 and feems to have gone directly through the Wantfum in. 
 his way to Londo?2. Theodojius landed here in 364 from 
 Boulogne. " Defertur Rutupias ftationem in adverfo tran- 
 
 quillam." 
 
1 20 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 quillam." No Britiuh port has been fo greatly celebrated. 
 Poets, Hiftorians and Geographers unite in its praife, or 
 take notice of it as an important place. Among the firft 
 are Lucan, Juvenal and Aufonius ; Tacitus, Ammianus, 
 Marcellinus, and Orojius. Among the Hiftorians, Ptolemy, 
 Antonius ; and federal other among the Geographers and 
 authors of Itineraries. I mu ft quote Juvenal* to prove the 
 great reputation the Rutupian oy iters held at Rome. They 
 were exported to that luxurious city, notwithftanding they 
 boafted much of their Lucrine oyfters. 
 
 Circseis nata forent, an 
 Lucrinum ad Saxum, Rutnpinoque edita fundo oftrea. 
 
 The Romans had long before invented the Vivaria, or 
 oyfter beds, and doubtlefsly introduced them here as they 
 did their other luxuries, that they might not be difap- 
 pointed of fo delicate a repaft. 
 
 Richboroikjh Ptichborough Caftle {lands in the parifh of AJh, on the 
 
 Cattle. n 
 
 eaft fide of the village, on the edge of a lofty Hope, once 
 warned by the fea : at prefent the St our palles beneath its 
 bafe. 
 
 ♦Sat. IV. 1. 140. 
 
 The 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 12 ! 
 
 The form is rectangular. Moft of the walls remain ; are 
 very thick, ftrong, and lofty ; and the cement now fo hard 
 as to baffle the efforts of thofe who have lately endeavoured 
 to deftroy them. The materials are great pebbles, flint, 
 chalk, &c. bedded in the mortar, which confifts of lime, 
 fea ftaells, broken tile, and fmall pebbles. The pieces of 
 chalk were taken by the Romans from the foot of the adja- 
 cent cliffs, and have the pholades remaining entire in their 
 cylindrical cells. The whole was faced with fquare ftones, 
 perhaps Purbeck, and, as ufual, had tiers of tiles at certain 
 diftances, two tiles thick : the fquare fcaffold holes remain. 
 
 The foundation of the wall is pit-fand, flint, chalk, 
 twice repeated, flints lodged in mortar, and laftly, a ftra- 
 tum of mortar. The thicknefs at the bafe is eleven feet 
 three inches, but at the height of a few feet, ten feet eight 
 inches. The length of the fouth wall, on the outfide, is 
 358 feet ; of the weft wall, 490 feet ; of the north wall, 560 
 feet. The north wall, in its moft perfect part, is about 25 
 feet high : it ran down the Hope, towards the fea, and re- 
 verted for the fpace of about 1 90 feet along a natural ter- 
 race, and ceafed where the terrace ceafed, and the bank 
 became inacceilible. Vaft fragments of the wall are fallen 
 down the ftope. The weft entrance is laid with large 
 fcjuared ftones, ftratum fuper ftratum. Near this place, 
 
 R in 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 in the north weft corner of the Caftle are found fnags of 
 ftags horns favved off ; boars tufks ; oyfter fhells in abund- 
 ance ; and the exuviae of other animals : the whole area is 
 conhderably above the external ground, and confifts of rub- 
 bifh interfperfed with thin layers of mortar. In the north 
 wall, on the outfide, is the foundation of a fquare tower, 
 and there are marks of four more in different parts of the 
 walls. Their fituation is pointed out by a particular ar- 
 rangement of round holes lined fmoothly with mortar pe- 
 netrating many feet into the fubftance of the wall, but no 
 where pervading it. 
 
 The porta ducumana is beneath a tower in the north wall, 
 through which the entrance into the Caftle is in an oblique 
 dire&ion. 
 
 In the area of the Caftle has been lately difcovered a plat- 
 form of folid mafonry, in form of a parallelogram, the fides 
 of which are 144 feet by 104 ; the depth five feet. It is a 
 compofition of large flint ftones and coarfe mortar. On its 
 furface are remains of a fuperftructure in the fhape of a crofs, 
 (which has been faced with the fquared ftones,) riling fome- 
 what above the ground, and more than five feet above the 
 platform. 
 
 A wharf, 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 A wharf, or landing place, was difcovered fome years ago 
 in the plain at the foot of the Hope about forty roods north- 
 ward of the Caftle, about four feet high, of a triangular 
 form, one of the fides parallel with the bank, and its oppofite 
 angle projecting towards the fea ; the fides were nearly 
 equal, of about ten feet each. It was a fhell of brick work, 
 two bricks thick, filled with earth, the two projecting fides 
 tied together with a brace of the fame material. Two forts 
 of brick were ufed in this building; one was 18 inches by 
 12, and three inches and a half thick : the other 17 by 11, 
 and one and a quarter thick. Mr. Ehenezer Mujfef, of 
 Bethnal Green, near London, purchafed the whole quantity 
 of materials, and employed them in paving a court yard, and 
 part of his houfe. 
 
 The Amphitheatre lay on the north fide : its form is de- 
 ftroyed, but the vaft hollow marks the place. 
 
 Multitudes of antiquities have been difcovered in and 
 about the caftle ; fuch as urns, coins, fragments of earthen 
 ware, marble mouldings, and brazen figures of Mercury, 
 and of a Bagpiper. The laft reprefents a foldier 
 armed in his helmet playing on the bagpipe, with the 
 pipe in his mouth, and the bag, which is very large, 
 placed almoft before him, and prefTed with both arms. I 
 
 R 2 * have 
 
124 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 have in my voyage to the Hebrides, p. 347, given a full 
 hiftory of the ufe of this inftrument at different periods. 
 
 Richborough has a moft advantageous profpect, which 
 might be one reafon for fixing on this fituation. It com- 
 mands all the way from the North to the South Foreland, 
 and all the harbour in which it flood, fo that no fleet or 
 vefTel could efcape its obfervation. 
 
 Sandwich. Sandwich rpfe on the ruins of Richborough. The Sax- 
 ons called it Lundewic, becaufe in their days the port was 
 the ufual paffage to London. We cannot trace the time of 
 its foundation ; but it was probably early, before the Saxons 
 had expelled the Britons, and our language entirely loll: in 
 this part of the iile. We called it Rhyd y Tywod, that is, 
 the Sandy Ford, of which the modern name is only a tranf- 
 lation. 
 
 The form alone might give a fufpicion that it had been a 
 Roman ftation, being almoft rectangular ; but as there is not 
 the leaft remnant of the architecture of that people, nor 
 any coins or antiquities ever dug up on or about the lite, we 
 may fairly conclude Sandwich to have been of Saxon origin. 
 
 Sandwich, built on a flat, elevated about fifteen feet 
 
 above 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 above the reft of the plain, is a town of about fix thoufand 
 inhabitants: the ftreets numerous, narrow, and irregularly 
 difpofed. The walls towards the river, and thofe on the 
 weft fide, were of ftone, and ran parallel to it. The 
 defence on the other parts were walls of earth, with femi- 
 circular equidiftant baftions. Over the river is a bridge of 
 two ftone arches, with a draw-bridge, for the paffage of 
 fmall vefTels as high as . Above the bridge it is 
 
 called the Stour ; below, the Haven. Prior to the bridge 
 was a ferry of very high antiquity ; this, and the ferry at 
 Sarre having been granted by Eadbert, King of Kent, who 
 died in 748, to the Abbey of St. Augufiine in Canterbury.. 
 This was in 1 349 beftowed by Edward III. on the hcfpital 
 of St. Bartholomew at Sandwich, which it enjoyed till the 
 ferry was changed into a bridge in 1755, by virtue of an 
 Act of Parliament, which fecures to the hofpital 62I. a 
 year, being the laft and greateft rent made of the ferry. 
 
 Within the precincts of the walls are confiderable tracts 
 of garden ground : many of the posterity of the Flemifi 
 refugees are ftill inhabitants of this town, and carry on the 
 bufinefs introduced by their anceftors. Several of them had 
 fet up the manufacture of flannel, bays and fayes : the 
 trade was at one time very confiderable ; but at prefent is 
 totally loft. The ftaple for wool was placed here by 
 
 1 Edzvard 
 
126 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Edward I. removed, and again reftored by Richard II. In 
 the time of Edward III. the provifions and ftores for the 
 Royal Navy were brought here as a mo ft convenient place 
 to convey them to France^ the feat of war. As an idea of 
 its ancient opulence, in the reign of Edward IV. the Cufr 
 toms yielded annually between fixteen and feventeen thou- 
 fand pounds, and even in that of James I. near three thou- 
 fand pounds. 
 
 Sandwich is one of the cinque ports. When Edward IV. 
 reigned, it had ninety-five fhips belonging, to it, and above 
 fifteen hundred failors. Their naval expeditions againft a 
 common enemy were often very formidable ; but at differ- 
 ent times their fufferings by foreign invaders brought on 
 them great mifery. 
 
 As foon as the barbarous Danes found their way to our 
 coafts, they naturally felecled for their prey the richer! 
 places. Sandwich (a proof of its wealth in early days) was 
 First at a °kj ec ^ in thefe parts. They made an attempt on the 
 tacked by the p] ace m grj but were furprifed and defeated by King 
 
 Danes in 851. r J ° 
 
 Atheljlan and a Saxon General of the name of Ealcher. 
 They loft nine fhips, and the reft of their vaft fleet was 
 forced to retreat. In fucceftive years they renewed their 
 attacks, which were always attended with theufual barbarity 
 
 of 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 127 
 
 of that favage nation. Unlafc and Sweine, and Canute 
 are among the great Danijh names who landed on this 
 fhore. Let me here fay that the laft of thofe Princes, with 
 prof ufe fuperftition, gave the port of Sandwich and all its 
 royalty, with a rich pall, and his golden crown, to the 
 Priory of Chriftchurch in Canterbury ', to expiate the barba- 
 rities of his countrymen among the profeffors of Chriftianity. 
 
 Edward the ConferTor made this town his refidence dur- Edwakd the 
 
 Con fessor 
 
 ing part of his reign. In his days the number of houfes resides here. 
 was three hundred and feven. At this period, and long af- 
 ter, it was a moft extenflve and commodious harbour. In 
 the fame reign Godwin and Harold ', after many acts of vio- 
 lence, pafTed through this port, through the Wantfiwi, and 
 out at the North-muth to London. In 12 16, Louis, the 
 Dauphin of France, afterwards Louis VIII. failed into this 
 port with fix hundred mips and eighty boats, landed, and 
 continued at Sandwich till he was joined by the difcontented 
 Barons. % 
 
 In 1457, after we had been expelled our ancient domains Pillaged by 
 
 t- • 1 11*' 1 • r • i THE F r ench 
 
 in trance, we received additional mortification by a petty IN I457 
 invafion from Normandy, under the conduct of Pierre de 
 Breze, who collecting out of the different garrifons about 
 four thoufand men, landed at Sandwich, put the inhabitants 
 
 to 
 
128 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 to the fword, and then pillaged the town, and retired with 
 impunity. 
 
 This once important port is now reduced to the channel 
 of the river Stour. This omnium Anglorum portuum famo- 
 ftjfimus is now contracted to a very inconfiderable ftream, 
 and winds, fcarcely feen from Fordwich, through a plain, 
 once occupied by a mighty eftuary, which received the na- 
 vies of Rome, and was thought worthy of being celebrated 
 by many of the dailies. After palling the foot of Rutupice, 
 it turns a fullen ditch due north to Sandwich, from thence 
 indolently bends to the north, and at Stonor Cut approxi- 
 mates fo nearly as almoft to reunite, foon after points north 
 weft, and in a ihort fpace is loft in the fea. 
 
 The date of the complete deftru£Hon of this once im- 
 portant port, and its reduction to the prefent ftate, muft be 
 confined to the fpace between 1457 anc ^ I 573« ^ n tne 
 fir ft year of Queen Elizabeth, a petition was prefented to 
 her Highnefs for the improvement of the harbour, and foon 
 after 1573 the land choked up its mouth ; the reft of that 
 great tract was filled gradually. Pollibly the formation of 
 the Godwin Sands might give the tides new force and direc- 
 tion, and caufe them to bring in the quantities of fand and 
 mud, which at length formed it into folid land. PofTibly 
 
 the 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 129 
 
 the vafl: inundations which deftroyed part of the low coun- 
 tries in the reign of Henry I. or that which made fuch ha- 
 vock in Holland between the years 1400 and 142 1, might 
 have their influence; for great events muft have had potent 
 caufes, and thefe are often to be fought after in remote 
 parts. 
 
 The Haven, following its curvatures, has a courfe of 
 about four miles and a quarter before it reaches the fea ; , 
 but in aftraight line, only a mile and three quarters. At its 
 mouth, in common fpring tides, is about fourteen or fifteen 
 feet of water ; but fometimes, in a ftrong north- weft wind, 
 at fpring tides the depth is twenty : at high tides the water 
 rifes at the bridge eight feet, and brings up vefTels of two 
 hundred and fifty tons ; the total depth at fuch times is 
 about fourteen feet. The difcharge was formerly very dif- 
 ferent, the channel taking rather a fouthern direction, and 
 opening into the fea a little to the north of Sandwich Caftle. 
 
 On the nth of this month I experienced the friendfhip 
 and hofpitality of Mr. JVilliam Boys, furgeon, as I did be- 
 fore on April 26, 1777. I need not enlarge on this gentle- 
 man's worth, his extenfive knowledge, and in particular that 
 of the antiquities of his own neighbourhood. Under his 
 guidance I walked over the fite of the ancient Rutuptim, 
 
 s and 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 and received from him an account of whatfoever was re- 
 markable in the town or neighbourhood. Let the reader 
 fatiate himfelf with the full and excellent hiftory which Mr. 
 Boys has prefented to the public, and content themfelves 
 with the flight notices to which my plan confines me. 
 
 In Mr. Boys's parlour I obferved fome fmall pictures of a 
 fhip in diftrefs : he related to me the fubject, and furnifhed 
 me with the following melancholy epifode : — In 1727 his 
 father was fecond mate in the Saxborough galley, a fine fhip 
 of thirty-two guns, fitted out by the South Sea Company y 
 under the Ajfieitto contract, and commanded by Captain 
 Kellaway. Her crew, including two pafTengers, confifted 
 of thirty-nine. On June 25, in their way from Jamaica 
 to England, the fhip took fire by the carelefs application of 
 a candle to a puncheon of rum. The head was heard to 
 burfl off with the explofion of a cannon, and the flames 
 feized her without hopes of remedy : the yawl was hoifted 
 cut, and twenty-two men and boys crowded into it ; the 
 long boat remained on board on fire. In this fituation,. 
 without cloaths, provifion, or compafs, at the diftance of a 
 hundred and twenty leagues from the neareft land, they ex- 
 perienced all the miferies of cold, hunger, and thirft. It 
 was propofed to fling into the fea the two boys who had oc- 
 casioned the misfortune : this was over-ruled. It was 
 4 then 
 
FROM LONDON TO. DOVER. 
 
 then propofed to caft lots, and give all an equal chance of 
 being faved, by lightening the boat, which lay deep in the 
 water : this was oppofed, and foon became unnecefiary, by 
 the death of five of the people raving mad. Hunger grew 
 now irrefiftible. Mr. Scn'm/our, the furgeon, propofed the 
 eating the bodies of the dead, and drinking their blood : he 
 made the flrfh effay, and turned afide his head and wept. 
 They could only relifh the hearts, of which they ate three. 
 They cut the throats of their dead companions as foon as 
 life was departed, and found themfelves refrefhed and in- 
 vigorated by this unnatural beverage. By the i 2 th day the 
 number was reduced to twelve ; a raging fea added to their 
 miferies : a dead duck, in a putrid ftate, came within their 
 reach, and was eaten as the greated delicacy. On July 7th 
 defpair feized them, and they lay down to die. By acci- 
 dent Mr. Boys raifed himfelf and faw land : on communi- 
 cating the news to the furvivors they were inftantly re-ani- 
 mated, and took to their oars. They perceived fome fhal- 
 lops in with the land, and found themfelves on the coafts of 
 Newfoimdland. They were taken on more and treated 
 with the utmoft humanity by Captain Le Cras y of Guern- 
 fey, Admiral of the harbour. Mr. Boys, with true piety, 
 kept the day of his deliverance ever after as a faft. — 
 The reft of his life was bleffed with profperity. He had be- 
 gun his career in his Majefty's fervice : accident flung him 
 
 s 2 into 
 
132 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 into that in which he experienced fo great a calamity. 
 He returned again into the Royal Navy, rofe to the poft of 
 Captain, and hoifted the broad pendant as Commander in 
 Chief of his Majefty's fhips and velTels in the Thames, 
 Medway, and Nore. At length he finimed his honourable 
 days Lieutenant Governor of Greenwich Hofpital, in March 
 4th, 1774, aged 74. It is remarkable that two of his fellow 
 fufferers lived to a very great age. Mr. Scrim/our, the fur- 
 geon, attained that of eighty ; and George Mould, a fea- 
 man, being brought into Greenwich Hofpital by the Lieu- 
 tenant Governor, died there at the age of about eighty-two. 
 
 Sandwich, large as it is, contains very little worth the 
 attention of the curious. It is lingular that in a town 
 of fuch extent there mould have been only one monaftic 
 inftitution : a Priory of Carmelites, or White Friars, 
 founded according to fome in 1272, by Henry Cowfeld, a 
 German ; but Mr. Boys has difcovered that it was not till 
 the reign of Edward I. when, in 1291, it was eftablimed at 
 the fole expence of William Lord Clinton, Lord of Folk- 
 Jlone and Goulfione. On the dilfolution it was granted to 
 Thomas Ardern, of Feverjham. 
 
 St. Thomas's The town was fortunate in more ufeful inflitutions. The 
 Hospital. h 0 fpi ta i G f St. Thorn as was founded in 1392 by Thomas 
 
 « Ellis, 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 133 
 
 Ellis y a drafter in this town, for twelve poor perfons. This 
 hofpital is ftill kept up, and comfortably fupports eight 
 brothers and three lifters, and has a revenue of 162I. 11s. 
 The founder is recorded to have been fo opulent as to have 
 lent forty pounds to his fpendthrift monarch, Richard II. 
 
 Another hofpital is that of St. John. The oldeft. grant St. John's. 
 of it that appears was made in 1287. It confifts of a large 
 and much decayed building : in the earlieft accounts it ap- 
 pears that the revenue maintained fifteen brethren ; but at 
 prefent they fupport only a mafter and fix brothers, the fex 
 not being attended to fo that the number be filled. They 
 had been alfo in old times a kind of mendicants, waiting 
 the return of failors from fea ; and of fimermen begging 
 alms or fiih ; and during harveft went with a cart among the 
 farmers to obtain their contributions in corn. A very cu- 
 rious wooden dim is ftill preferved, in which they ufed to 
 collect alms ; in the bottom is a jfilver plate, with the figure 
 of a fifter with a purfe in one hand and ftafF in the other, 
 and round is infcribed, Pro anima Crijlince Pikefyfch y who 
 was admitted fifter in 141 7, or the 5th of Henry V. 
 
 Behind this hofpital was a range of rooms called the Har- TheHarbinge. 
 binge, derived from the Saxon Hereberg, or a houfe of en- 
 tertainment. Thefe were a fort of Chriftian Caravan/eras^ 
 
 and 
 
134 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 and deitined for the comfortable lodging and fupport of tra- 
 vellers ; and a brother and fitter were in old times appointed 
 by the Mayor and Jurats to attend on the guefh. 
 
 Hospital of The ho{ p i ta l j s t ha t of St. Bartholemew, which 
 
 St. Barthole- 
 
 mew. ftands without the walls. It is a foundation of great an- 
 
 tiquity, but of much uncertainty as to its date. Tradition 
 attributes it to 1190, and to one Thomas Cawthorne and 
 Maud his wife ; but this is fuppofed to be erroneous. 
 All that is certain is, that a Bertine de Bouchard had made 
 a grant to the hofpital, witneUed by Mr. Henry de Sand- 
 wich, who was living in 1230, This poiTibly is the houfe 
 alluded to by Leland, who fpeaks of " an hofpital withowt 
 the town, fyrfl: ordened for maryners defefid and hurt." — 
 As this hofpital was built cn a great highway, herelikewife 
 were apartments (like the preceding) for the reception of 
 pilgrims and travellers, in a manner frill cuftomary in many 
 religious houfes on the Continent. Sixteen brothers and 
 fillers are here maintained; the revenues are 357I. us. 6d. 
 a year, among which is to be reckoned 62I. the annuity 
 from the bridge. 
 
 Grammar The Grammar School was a Proteflant foundation. The 
 
 School. 
 
 defign originated from the Mayor and Jurat and principal 
 inhabitants, but it was warmly taken up by Roger Man- 
 
 wood, 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 i35 
 
 wood, then a Barrifter, who engaged to endow it, which 
 he did in the moft ample manner. He was a native of 
 Sandwich, diftinguifhed by his knowledge of the Law, and 
 at length became Chief Baron of the Exchequer. His 
 principal refldence was at Hackington, where he died in 
 December 1592, aged 67. A very fuperb monument was 
 erected to his memory in Hackington Church. His figure, 
 half length, in the robes of office, appears above ; within a 
 niche below them, a fkeleton at full length, lying on a mat. 
 
 In this town are three churches : that of St. Clement % St. Clement's 
 
 . Church. 
 
 is the largeir ; built in form of a crofs, with a fquare 
 tower in the center. The fupport within conftfts of four 
 large arches, in the fame ftyle with the capitals of the pil- 
 lars, carved in what is called the Saxon. This is evidently 
 the moft ancient part, and was built of Caen ftone ; the reft 
 is compofed of the ftone from the neighbouring Pegwell, 
 mixed with that of Caen y taken from the original building. 
 In old times the vicar was maintained by the tithe of rlfh 
 brought into this port. 
 
 St. Clement's and St. Marys are the two other churches. St. Clement's 
 Much Caen ftone appears in the building of the firft, which ry's. 
 fliews the vaft demand made in our ifland from thofe foreign 
 quarries in early times. From a pafTage in Leland there is a 
 
 fufpicion 
 
136 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 fufp icion of St. Marys Church having been conventual. 
 
 " Sum fuppofe," fays he, " that St. Maryes was fum 
 tyme a Nunnery." 
 
 Civil Govern- I will take leave of Sandwich with a mention of its civil 
 
 MENTi 
 
 government. By the prefent charter it is governed by a 
 Mayor, Recorder, twelve Jurats, and twenty- four Common 
 Council-men. The firft return of this, and all the cinque 
 ports, was in 1368, or the 42d of Edward III. It fends 
 two members, who are elected by the freemen, to the 
 amount of between feven and eight hundred. All the free- 
 men refident, or not refident, who do not receive alms, are 
 qualified to vote for members; 
 
 Fisheries. Off this coaft is a fmall fifhery, chiefly carried on along 
 Keddle Nets, the more. One fpecies is by the Keddle nets : a deep kind, 
 fattened to high poles fixed in the beach almoft at high- 
 water mark, in a circular or waving form, in which are taken 
 chiefly the mullet. Br. Zool. iii. No. 158, and the gar- 
 fifh, No. 154, and fometimes ray, and other flat fifh, in 
 their retreat from the mores, where they wander in fearch 
 of food. Thefe nets ftand from the latter end of March 
 to the end of June. 
 
 Rait Nets. The Ray or Rait nets are placed on the fand to flop the 
 
 fifh 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 137 
 
 fifli in their return to the fea on the ebb of the tide. They 
 are fhallow, flretched from flake to flake in a circular or 
 angular form. In thefe are caught rays and other flat fifh, 
 and accidentally falmon and dorees. Thefe nets are ere&ed 
 the beginning of May, and fland till December. 
 
 Mackrel are caught at fea. The boats are prepared in Mackrel. 
 April, and the fifhery continues ten or eleven weeks. Ser- 
 vants in hufbandry along the coafl hire themfelves for a year, 
 with an exception to the Shotfare feafon, or time of catch- 
 ing mackrel, when they engage in the fifhery at their own 
 rifk; a certain fhare of the profit, if any, being allotted to 
 the boats, the nets, and the crew refpe&ively. 
 
 Sprats are caught in general at a fmall diflance from land, Sprats. 
 and fometimes very elofe in. They are taken in hanging 
 nets, floating in the water ; but not fo large as the mackrel 
 nets, and the mefhes much fmaller. The feafon begins 
 early in December, and lafls a month. 
 
 Whitings are caught with hand lines from the fhores, whitings. 
 and from boats. They are largefl and fullefl of roe in De- 
 cember, and continue fo for about a month. 
 
 T 
 
 I muft 
 
138 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Minute 
 Shells. 
 
 I muft refer to Mr. Walker § account of the Minute 
 Shells difcovered in the fand of the fhore near Sandwich 
 by Mr. Boys, for the hiftory of thefe diminutive fpecies, 
 which muft baffle the moft lyncean eyes, unlefs aided by the 
 microfcope. 
 
 Birds. 
 
 Multitudes of fea birds frequent, during winter, the 
 fhores and marfliy grounds near Sandwich, Romney, and 
 Lid. Moft of them are common to our other coafts. I 
 fhall only mention thofe which retire during fummer, for 
 the fake of breeding, to Dungenefs and the undrained parts 
 of Romney marfhes. 
 
 Curlew, Br. Zool. ii. No. 176. Sea Pie 
 
 No. 213. 
 
 Whimbrel 
 Godwit 
 Red Shank 
 Lapwing 
 Dunlin 
 Pur re 
 
 No. 177. 
 No. 179. 
 No. 184. 
 No. 190. 
 No. 205. 
 No. 206. 
 
 Avofette No. 228. 
 
 Blackhead Gull No. 252. 
 Minute 
 
 Greater Tern No. 
 Sandwich, Latham, vi. 356. 
 
 Pigmy Curlew. The Pygmy Curlew is a very rare bird, not bigger than a l 
 lark. I flrft received it from Dr, Gronovius, mot on the 
 coaft of Holland. I engraved it in my Genera of Birds, 
 
 p. 64, 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 139 
 
 p. 64, tab. xi. Since that time Mr. Boys aftures me it has 
 been fhot near Sandwich , and is now preferved in the Mu- 
 feum of my friend Mr. Latham. 
 
 The Sandwich Tern ( Latham vi. p. 356, Suppl. 266,) was Sandwich 
 
 Tern. 
 
 difcovered by that gentleman. It is three inches longer than 
 my Greater Tern. Bill and upper part of the head, black; 
 reft of the head, neck, and whole under fide, white ; back, 
 and coverts of the wings, hoary; legs, claws, and upper part 
 of the feet, black : appears in fummer about the fhores of 
 Sandwich in vafr. flocks ; aflbciates with the Greater Tern, 
 but is diilinguifhed even by its note, which is fhorter. It 
 arrives about the 17th of April, and departs about the 5th 
 of September. 
 
 I will here mention a very rare bird found in this country, 
 the Cream-coloured Plover, {Latham, v. 217, Suppl. 254, 
 tab. cxvi.) which was fhot near St. Alb an s^ in Eajl Kent. 
 I obferved the fame fpecies in France. 
 
 The fhore, from the mouth of Sandwich Haven to the 
 firft afcent to 5/. Margaret's Cliff, a tracl; of about fix miles, 
 is very flat and low. Parallel to Sandwich it is guarded by 
 a range of lofty dunes, or fand-hills, which extend as far 
 as Sandown Cajlle, about two miles in length. That for- 
 
 t 2 trefs 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 trefs was one of the many built by Henry VIII. to protect 
 his coafts from the infults of the French. This, the caftle 
 at Deal, and a third at Walmer y are in the fame ftyle. A 
 combination of round towers, with a round and fometimes 
 a fquare one in the middle. Thefe were of a moft incon- 
 venient form, incapable of being completely flanked or de- 
 fended by any adjacent work. 
 
 Here commences another fpecies of natural protection to- 
 the coafts ; a vaft bank of pebbles flung up by the fea, and 3 
 what is very remarkable, all rolled up from the fouth. 
 
 I will not quit the neighbourhood of Sandwich without 
 reverfing a journey I took In 1777 from Canterbury to this 
 place, and keeping on the banks of the Partus Rutupenjts, 
 trace its eourfe to the capital of Kent, which my friend Mr. 
 Boys contends to have been the Urbs Rutupice, and the em- 
 porium of that ancient haven. For my part I fee no reafon 
 for removing it from Richborough, efpecially as Camden has 
 given us, as proof of its exiftence, the traces of the ftreets ob- 
 ferved on the hill near the Caftle, by a thinnefs of the corn 
 fown on the fite, which appears in regular lines ; befides 
 that the country people call the interferons of the ftreets 
 St, Augufline s Crojfes : coins and other antiquities difco- 
 vered on the foot furniih ftill ftronger arguments. 
 
 4 The 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 The courfe of the port is eaft and weft, and may be 
 marked by the rifing lands on both fides ; and the inter- 
 vening flats once occupied by the lea, are diftinguifhed by 
 the names of levels, fuch as Afo Level, and many others 
 taken from the parifhes or towniLips they belong to, till 
 you arrive at Fordwich Level, where the port ended. 
 
 Two miles from Sandwich ftands the village and parifti 
 church of AJh, On the eaftern fide, adjacent to the Asir ^ 
 church, had been a great cemetery or burying-ground of 
 the Romans, in a fandy eminence, on the top of which the 
 bodies were in great numbers depofited a few feet below 
 the furface : they were in wooden coffins, placed eaft and 
 weft. In thefe graves with the bones were found various 
 inftmments of war, and family utenfils ; fwords, heads of 
 fpears and pikes, umbos of fhields, fcales, weights, copper 
 pans, a pail hooped with brafs, a ftone axe in the fame 
 coHin, with f >me Roman coins, bugles, and various fibulas 
 and things of ornament, fome richly enamelled ; fome with 
 coloured glafs, and one was a pendent with an amethyft. 
 
 About two miles farther I reached the village of Wing- Wingham. 
 ham, where I made a fhort ftay to examine the church and 
 its monuments. Archbifhop Kilwardby, who died in 1278, 
 defigned to found here a College, which, in 1286, was ac- 
 tually 
 
142 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER, 
 
 tually done for a Provoft and fix fecular Canons, by Arch- 
 bifhop Peckham. Here was alfo a manor-houfe belonging 
 to the See, in which Baldwyn, and many of the prelates, 
 ufed occafionally to refide ; and Edward I. and II. bave 
 honoured it with their prefence. Edward VI. beftowed 
 the lite of the College on Sir Thomas Palmer, who with 
 his defcendants for fome generations made this place their 
 refidence, but now it is deferted for Dormey Court near 
 Windfor. One of them was created a Baronet in 1621. 
 Sir c Tho?nas had been a creature of the Protector Somerset's, 
 and partaker of many of his facrileges : at length he betrayed 
 him to his enemy, Dudley, Duke of Northumberland \ and 
 after bringing his friend and patron to the block, defervedly 
 underwent the fame fate with Northumberland, and Gates, 
 another inftrument of that ambitious man. Palmer died 
 with an intrepidity worthy of a better life. 
 
 In the chancel is the tomb of one of his pofterity, Sir 
 Roger Palmer, Knight, and his wife, both recumbent. — 
 He is in armour : me lies on a cloak, that flows elegantly 
 over part of her body. 
 
 Here are alfo feveral monuments of the Oxendens of 
 Dene, in this parifh, a family of confiderable antiquity in 
 this county, and honoured with the dignity of Baronet. 
 
 I foon 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 I foon after paffed by the Mote, the feat of Earl Cowper. 
 
 143 
 
 A very little farther is the village of Fordwich. During Fordwich. 
 the Saxon period it was a place of confiderable importance : 
 the fca, at that time, flowed thus high, and fhips in great 
 numbers reforted to their moorings at the quay, on which 
 the goods were landed, and the exports {hipped. In 747 
 King Eadbert gave to the Church and Abbefs of Recuher, 
 the tax of one fliip in the port and town of Fordwich. — 
 During the Saxon period here was a Collector of the Cuf- 
 toms. Thefe were given, by Edward the Confeifor, to the 
 Abbey of St. Auguftine, which continued till its diffolution. 
 In the time of the Saxons this was the bottom of the old 
 Tortus Rutupenjis, which was probably filled by degrees 
 till the remaining part near Sandwich was finally loft in the 
 years I have mentioned. At prefent the St our ^ which pafies 
 by the town, is navigable to Fordwich only for barges and 
 lighters. 
 
 Fordwich has long been noted for its delicious 7'routs, j xs Trouts 
 which come up from the fea from the month of May to that 
 of September. They weigh from four to ten or twelve 
 pounds ; but in thefe times feldom more than thirty are 
 taken in the year. The right of fiming is in the Corpora- 
 tion, for this place is an ancient Borough, and a Corpora- 
 
 2 tion. 
 
, 44 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 tion by prefcription. The members were at firfl called Ba- 
 rons, and the place is fubordinate to the cinque-port of 
 Sandwich. The Mayor and Jurats held their feflions of gaol 
 delivery, and till of late there was a gallows near the quay 
 as a mark of their power. 
 
 Hackington. A little farther is Hackington, famous for being the place 
 where Archbifhop Baldwyn defigned to found a College for 
 forty fecular Priefts, and that the King and each of his fuf- 
 fragan Bifhops mould have a prebend, every one of which 
 was to be worth forty marks a year ; but the Monks of 
 Chrifi Church in Canterbury were fo jealous of fuch a po- 
 tent inilitution, that they obtained a decree from the Pope 
 againft any further proceeding ; and the Chapel which 
 Baldwyn had built, was, by his Holinefs's command, in 
 1 1 6 1 , levelled to the ground. 
 
 Canterbury. Canterbury, the capital of Kent, is about half a mile dif- 
 tant from this village. The Latin name, Durovernum, is 
 derived from the Britifo, and exprefTes its fituation at the 
 time the Romans were porTeffed of our ifland : at that pe- 
 riod it flood at the end cf the Tortus Rutupenfis. On the 
 mouth of the St our all fimilar fituations have, in the Weljh 
 tongue, the adjunct of Aier to the name of the river. This 
 probably at that time wanted one ; fo no other appellation 
 
 was 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 was given than Dwr Aber, the mouth or difcharge of the 
 water. B and V, in the Britijh, are frequently ufed one for 
 the other ; fo that we may more fafely admit my interpreta- 
 tion of Durovernum, than that of Camden, who tranflates it, 
 into Dwr Whern, the rapid ftream. 
 
 Whether the Britons ever feated themfelves on this fpot 
 is very uncertain ; yet, from the name, I mould conclude 
 they did : add alfo the frequency of the Glain Naidr, or 
 Druidkal beads, and the brazen celts dug up within the 
 precincts. 
 
 But it was without difpute a Roman city, and one of the 
 firft consideration in our ifland. The form of it inclines 
 to oval ; the circuit is one mile five furlongs thirty-two 
 perches and thirteen feet. On the north part the Stour is 
 divided into two branches ; one pafies through the city ; the 
 other runs near the walls on the weftern fide. The en- 
 trance of the Romans from the Dover fide, was under the 
 Riding-gate, along the Wattling-ftreet road, which paffed 
 through Canterbury, and was continued through London, 
 quite to Deva Caer Lleion, or Chefier. In Riding-gate, 
 Worth-gate (now blocked up), and ^uenin-gate, was found 
 the Roman architecture ; and many parts of the walls have 
 traces of Roman bricks, proofs of the original builders ; but 
 
 u thefe 
 
146 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 thefe marks are become very rare, by reafon of the frequent 
 repairs, and other changes. 
 
 From Canterbury to Tortus Lamannce, Studfal Caftle is 
 another military road, known by the name of Stoney-ftreet 1 
 according to the Itinerary, fixteen miles diftant. 
 
 The third antient road is to Rutupice, or Richborough^ 
 and is the length of ten miles. 
 
 In all parts of the city are frequently found numbers of 
 Roman antiquities, fuch as mofaic and other pavements^, 
 earthen ware, and coins innumerable. 
 
 The Dungel- The Dungel-hill, within the fouth part of the walls, was 
 of Roman origin ; an exploratory mount, with a fpecula on 
 the fummit, and a deep fofs round the bottom, very neceffary 
 in this flat country to obferve what was palling round the 
 city. It had its balUum, or yard, of a fquare form, and fur- 
 rounded by a great rampart. This was erected prior to the 
 building of the walls; for beyond them appears a continua- 
 tion of the work, an area and dike which once united with 
 the other, before they were fevered by the wall. The form 
 of this work proves it to have been a Roman Caftrum y flung 
 up on their firfr. taking pofTeflion of the place. 
 
 The 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 The Roman gate, called Worth-gate, ftood a little to the 
 north-weft of Dungel-hill ; and ftill farther to the north ap- 
 pears another Roma?t antiquity, a large arch of Ro?nan tile 
 in the weft end of St, Mildred's Church. On one fide it 
 is very vifible ; the other is much concealed by the earth. — ■ 
 This is fuppofed to have been originally a Sacellum of the 
 Chriftians of the Roman garrifon, and that afterwards it was 
 continued for the ufes of the fame religion, and dedicated 
 to a Chriftian Saint. 
 
 On the place where the Cathedral now ftands, was ano- 
 ther Roman Chriftian Church, which was granted to St. 
 Auguftine in 597, by King Ethelbert ; as was that of St. 
 Martin, which ftands without the walls, about a quarter of 
 a mile to the eaft. It is built with great fimplicity, of Roman 
 brick mixed with flint and ftone, and is fuppofed to be the 
 oldeft church in the kingdom which remains in ufe. Here 
 is preferved a very curious ftone Font, with interjecting 
 circles and Saxon arches cut on the furface. 
 
 I did not trace many Saxon remains, but do not doubt 
 fuch may be found. Such as I fufpe£t to have been the work 
 of thofe people, I fhall mention in the courfe of my progrefs 
 through the city. 
 
 u 2 
 
 The 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 The old Roman temple was converted into a cathedral 
 by Saint Augufiine^ who was the firft Archbifhop. Arch- 
 bifhop Cuthbert^ tranflated to the See in 741, was the firft 
 who feemed to have made any confiderable buildings on the 
 fpot. The frequent ravages of the Danes almoft. brought 
 total deftrudtion on every work of religion. When L,an- 
 franc, in 1070, attained the archiepifcopal dignity, he 
 found the church fo ruinous that he was obliged to rebuild 
 it from the ground. As he followed the Norman architec- 
 ture, I will not be politive that the round arches I faw in 
 fome of the tranfcepts might not have been part of his 
 building, and not Saxon. The fame doubts remain con- 
 cerning the fine crypts beneath. 
 
 AlmoO: the whole is now in the Gothic ftyle, and of great 
 beauty and elegance. A fine tower graces the centre. The 
 infide has numbers of objects highly to be admired ; fuch as 
 the roof above the north window, and the fkreen ; the earl 
 window, and furrounding foliage. 
 
 There is fomething uncommonly grand in the elevation of 
 the choir and other places above the body of the cathedral; 
 the firft afcent is by a flight of feventeen fteps, divided by 
 a broad landing-place. The choir itfelf is wretchedly fitted 
 up with modern wainfcot > and behind the altar is a van: oak 
 
 fkreen, 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 ikreen, fome of Gibbon s carving faves this part from repro- 
 bation. 
 
 Behind trie fkreen is a flight of fteps which leads to the 
 Chapel of the Holy Trinity. This is a moil curious and 
 elegant piece of work — a beautiful peryftile ; the arches 
 fupported by double rounded columns, with Acanthi?te ca- 
 pitals. Above is a fine gallery with Gothic arches, and the 
 whole in form of an infulated theatre covered with a noble 
 vaulted roof. At the weft end is a curious telTelated pave- 
 ment, compofed of rich marbles, V erd antique Porphyry, 8cc. 
 and on each fide feveral circles with figures rude and em- 
 blematic, as Egyptian hieroglyphics. . 
 
 Between the pillars are frequent tombs. I lhall only 
 take notice of the Royal — of that of King Henry IV. and 
 Queen yoan, of Navarre, his fecond wife, who both are re- 
 cumbent ; the figures formed of alabafter, parcel gilt : he 
 died in 1414. She erected the tomb, and in 1437 followed 
 her Lord. 
 
 Here alfo repofes the hero, Edward the Black Prince, 
 the undecenerated fon of Edward III. His figure is in 
 brafs, recumbent, and with uplifted hands : he is habited, as 
 the warrior mould, in complete armour. It was by his own 
 
 order 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 order he was interred here. Probably both thefe Princes 
 fixed on this place out of refpect to the turbulent Saint, 
 whom the madnefs of the times had honoured with an opi- 
 nion of a mo ft unmerited nature. 
 
 Between the Choir and this Chapel is placed the Patri- 
 archal Chair, in which Archbifhops were enthroned in great 
 ftate : it is plain, and clumfy, made of Petworth marble. 
 
 Beyond this Chapel is one of a circular form, called Bec- 
 kers Crown : in it are five lofty narrow windows, and be- 
 tween fome of them are very rude paintings. Beneath, in 
 a circular vault, was his place of interment, or rather the 
 fpot where the Monks haftily buried his body for fear it 
 fhould be expofed to the fowls of the air, as the a/TaiTins 
 threatened. This vault mull have been built long after, 
 and his remains tranflated into the fhrine, where they re- 
 mained till Cromwell, by order of the all-powerful Henry, 
 directed his bones to be taken out, and confumed to afhes. 
 It was not likely that he would pay any refpect to fo viru- 
 lent an oppofer of royal authority. 
 
 His lhrine flood within the Chapel of the Holy Trinity. 
 The following defcription, taken from Stow, will mew its 
 immenfe wealth : 
 
 " Saint 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 " Saint Aitjlines Abbey at Canterbury was fupprefTed, 
 " and the fhrine and goods taken to the King's Treafury \ 
 ft< as alfo the fhrine of Thomas Becket, in the Priory of 
 
 " Chrifi\ Church, waslikewife taken to the K ufe. This 
 
 t£ fhrine was builded about a man's height, all of ftone, 
 tc then upward of timber plaine, within the which was a 
 " chert, of yron, conteyning the bones of Thomas Becket y 
 " fcull and all, with the wounde of his death, and the 
 <c peece cut out of his fcull layde in the fame wound. — 
 " Thefe bones (by commandement of the L. Cromwell) 
 u were then and there brent; the timber work of this fhrine 
 " on the ou tilde was couered with plates of gold, damafked 
 <( with gold wier, which ground of gold was againe co- 
 " uered with jewels of golde, as rings, ten or twelve, 
 <{ cramped with gold wyer into the fayd ground of golde, 
 " many of thofe rings having flones in them ; brooches, 
 " images, angels, pretious Hones and great pearls, &c r 
 " The fpoile of which fhrine, in golden and pretious flones, 
 " filled two great chefts, fuch as fixe or feauen ftrong men 
 u could doe no more than conuey one of them at once out 
 " of the church/' 
 
 This was the objed of pilgrimage without end. A hiwr- 
 dred thoufand Devotees have made it a vifit in one year : men 
 of every rank, even to the crowned head. Among ethers?- 
 
 Louis 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Louis VII. of Fra?tce came in 1 179, in the guife of a com- 
 mon pilgrim. Louis, on this occafion, prefented a rich cup 
 of gold, and the famous precious ftone, called the Regal of 
 France, which Henry VIIL fet and wore as a thumb-ring. 
 He granted the Monks a hundred tons of wine to be paid at 
 Paris annually. He kept watch a whole night at the tomb, 
 and in the morning demanded to be admitted of the frater- 
 nity - y and was indulged in his requeft, attended by the peni- 
 tent Henry II. 
 
 St. Thomas fcems quite to have preceded, if not fuperfeded 
 our Saviour ; for in one year the offering to Chrijl\ altar 
 was ol. os. od. ; to that of his Holy Mother, 4I. is. 8d. ; 
 to that of the great Becket, 954I. 6s. 3d. It was alfo by 
 the merit of his blood, not our Saviour 's, that we were 
 taught to expect falvation : 
 
 Tu, per Thorns fanguinem, 
 
 quern pro te impendit, 
 Fac nos, Chrifte, Icandere 
 
 quo 'Thomas afcendit. 
 
 Chaucer makes one of thefe religious follies the fubject 
 of a moft entertai ning poem. The pilgrims afTernbled at 
 the Inn in Southward and put up at the Chequer, in High- 
 
 ftreet, 
 
 3 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 153 
 
 Jireet, which ftill remains. It is a wooden building, with a 
 great gallery round the court, and is now the habitation of 
 many poor families : not but there was in the days of pilgri- 
 mages good provifion made in this Monaftery for the poor 
 itinerants, a Domus Ho/pitum, where they had lodging and 
 diet at the expence of the houfe. It was a hundred and 
 fifty feet long, and forty broad ; and had a noble hall for 
 the reception of poor pilgrims and Grangers. Mr. Grofe 
 has given us a view of the beautiful entrance, through a 
 round arched door, with carved mouldings, and of the lin- 
 gular columns on the fide of the ftair-cafe. 
 
 The pilgrims, in their way, ufed to ftop at the hofpital at 
 Harbledon^ which had been founded by Bifhop Lanfranc y 
 for leprous perfons. This houfe is about a mile and an half 
 from the city, on the London road. It had the happinefs 
 to be in pofTeflion of St. Thomas Becket's flipper. This, 
 Erafmus fays, was the upper leather of an old fhoe, decked 
 with cryftals fet in copper, which the pilgrims khTed with 
 great devotion, as a preparation for the more folemn ap- 
 proach to the tomb. 
 
 The hifrory of this violent man is fo well known that I 
 need not repeat it. I will only fay, that he was, after his 
 
 x murder, 
 
r 54 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 murder, thrown by the aflafllns over the flairs that lead to 
 the choir ; and to this day the guide fhews you the fpot 
 where his indelible blood remains. 
 
 The chapel of St. John the Baptifl, in the under crofs, 
 efcaped me. By its reprefentation in Dart's Hiftory of this 
 Cathedral*, it is reprefented richly painted with fcripturaland 
 legendary fubjects. The entrance is through a door arched 
 in a Norman manner, and richly fculptured. 
 
 What is called the French Church, from its being ufed 
 by the refugees who fled from the Netherlands in the time of 
 Edward VI. is another crypt : the capitals of the pillars are 
 carved in the moft grotefque and ridiculous figures, fo 
 nearly refembling thofe in Grymbald\ crypt under St. Pe- 
 ter s Church, Oxford, that there can be no doubt but that 
 they were the work of the fame artifl, and of the fame pe- 
 riod, about the year 900, when Grymbald was invited into 
 England by Alfred the Great. 
 
 The Chapter-room is ninety-two feet by thirty- feven, and 
 fifty four feet high. The pillars of the Stalls on the fide are 
 of Petworth marble. In this place Henry II underwent 
 the feverity of his humiliating penance. 
 
 " The 
 
 * Page 34. 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 " The King thought it necelTary to vifrt the fhrine of 
 this new created Saint; and as foon as he came within 
 fight of the tower of Canterbury cathedral, at the dif- 
 tanceof three miles, defcended from his horfe and walked 
 thither bare-foot, over a road that was full of rough and 
 fharp ftones, which fo wounded his feet that in many 
 places they were ftained with his blood. When he got 
 to the tomb, which was then in the crypt of the church, 
 he threw himfelf proftrate before it, and remained for fome 
 time in fervent prayer, during which, by his orders, the 
 Bifhop of London^ in his name, declared to the people 
 that he had neither commanded nor advifed, nor by any 
 artifice contrived the death of Becket, for the truth of 
 which he appealed in the moft folemn manner to the tef- 
 timony of God ; but as the murderers of that Prelate had 
 taken occafion, from his words, too inconfiderately 
 fpoken, to commit this offence, he voluntarily thus fub- 
 mitted himfelf to the difcipline of the Church. After 
 this he was fcourged, at his own requeft and command, 
 by all the monks of the Convent afTembled for that pur- 
 pofe, from every one of whom, and from feveral bifhops 
 and abbots there prefent, he received three or four 
 ftripes. This fharp penance being done, he returned to 
 his prayers before the tomb, which he continued all that 
 
 x 2 " day 
 
"56 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 u day and all the next night, not even fuffering a carpet 
 " to be fpread beneath him, but kneeling on the hard pave^ 
 (t ment. Early in the morning he went round all the al- 
 " tars of the church, and paid his devotions to the bodies 
 " of the Saints there interred ; which having performed, he 
 " came back to Beckers tomb, where he ftaid till the hour 
 " when mafs was faid in the church, at which he alUfted. 
 
 " During all this time he had taken no kind of food, 
 " and, except when he gave his naked body to be whipt, 
 " was clad in fackcloth. Before his departure (that he 
 t( might fully complete the expiation of his fin according 
 " to the notions of the Church of Rome), he affigned a 
 Ct revenue of forty pounds a year to keep lights always 
 " burning, in honour of Becket, about his tomb. The 
 " next evening he reached London, where he found it necef- 
 " fary to be blooded and reft fome days." 
 
 Deanry. The Deanry is an ancient building, and has in it a long 
 feries of portraits of the Deans. As to the Archbifhop's 
 palace, it lies in ruins ; fo that when his Grace vidts his ca- 
 thedral, he is under the neceffity of getting entertainment 
 wherever he can. 
 
 The 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. i 57 
 
 The Cloifters are entire, and form a large fquare on the Cloisters. 
 weft fide of the body of the cathedral ; through them is 
 the entrance to the chapter-houfe. 
 
 Near the Library, which is a modern building on the lite 
 of the Prior's lodgings, is a very curious Baptijlery, of Baptistery. 
 a circular form, but ftrengthened without by buttrelfes. 
 Within, it is feventeen feet in diameter. The top is a dome, 
 or vaulted roof, fupported by a clufter of pillars with ftrong 
 diverging ribs. The door is in form of a round arch, with a 
 moulding carved in the zig-zag way, and probably built in 
 the Norma?t times. This had been a baptiftery ; the name 
 implies the ufe : they are frequent enough in the fouth of 
 Europe ; but this is the only one I met with in our ifland. 
 There is a fine one at Dijon : their original ufe was for the 
 baptiling Catechutnens, or fuch who were recently admitted 
 to the Chriftian religion. The fuperltructure is evidently of 
 much later date, being o&agon, and the windows on each 
 fide of the latter Gothic. 
 
 The tower called Bell Harry is a ftrong and very hand- 
 fome fquare building, at the fouth- weft corner of the body 
 of the church. At each angle is a neat pinnacle, and the 
 whole is richly ornamented. Its ufe was to contain the 
 bells belonging to this church. This magnificent tower was 
 
 i begun 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 begun by Prior Selling, who died in 1494 ; and fmifhed by 
 Thomas Goldftone, iecond Prior of that name, who died in 
 1517; but he was ailifred in the work by the great and mu- 
 nificent Archbifhop Morton. 
 
 The entrance into the precincts of the cathedral was 
 under Chrift Church gate ; a magnificent ftru&ure, with an 
 elegant angular tower on each fide, and richly ornamented 
 with fhields of arms and Gothic fculpture. It was built in 
 1516, during the time that Goldjlone the fecond was Prior. 
 
 As foon as King Ethelbert had prefented the ancient 
 church to St. Auguftine, that apoftle of England, as he 
 is called, founded here a monaftery, and dedicated it to our 
 Saviour, Chrift. The Archbifhops made it their cathedral, 
 and placed it under the care of a Dean and Secular Canons. 
 Ealfric, in 1003, turned them out and replaced them with 
 Monks. The Seculars repofTeiTed thcmfelves, and conti- 
 nued till La?ifranc, in 1080, rebuilt the cathedral and adja- 
 cent buildings, ruined by the Danes, and (locked them with 
 a hundred and fifty BenediSlines, and placed over them a 
 Prior. The Archbifhop in fome degree being confidered as 
 Abbot, it was often called the Church or Priory of the Holy 
 Trinity, or of Chrift Church. Befides the immenfe offerings 
 at Becket\ fhrine, it had the revenue of the clear fum of 
 
i 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 i59 
 
 2387I. 13s. 3d. a year: at the diffolution Henry placed 
 here a Dean and twelve Canons. The laft Prior was Thomas 
 Goldwell, who, with fixty-eight of his monks, fubfcribed to 
 the King's fupremacy. 
 
 I will not tire my friends with an account of the lefTer 
 religious houfes ; but fhall conclude with another religious 
 fociety that owed its origin to the fame great Miffionary as 
 the former, and which rofe into a great degree of wealth, 
 and to a pitch of power fuperior even to the former. On 
 the converiionof Ethelbert by St. Augujline, that Monarch 
 prefented him with a piece of ground, and affiled him to 
 build the monaftery which afterwards rofe into fuch cele- 
 brity. It was at firft dedicated to St. Peter and St. Paul ; 
 but St. Dunfian dedicated anew, and united to thofe Apo- 
 ftles the papal miffionary St. Augujline. I call him papal, 
 becaufe he certainly was not the apoftle of the Britons, but 
 the emifTary of the Pope ; not to preach Chriftianity, but to 
 inculcate the doctrine unheard of before in England* of his 
 fupreme authority over the Church of Chrift. He was 
 haughty and oppreflive, and treated thofe who refufed to 
 bow the knee to his new idol with the utrnoft infolence. 
 I need go no farther than his treatment of feven BritiJJo 
 Bifhops and the Monks of Bangor, who declined, with all 
 humility, the fupreme authority he propofed. 
 
 Notwith- 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Notwitliftanding St. Auguftine took fo much pains to 
 eftablifh the Pope's fupremacy, he did not forget his own ; 
 for, by his proper authority, he confirmed King Fthelberts 
 donation, and exempted his own Abbey from all archiepif- 
 copal jurifdiction. He enriched it with divers reliques 
 brought from Rome ; among others a remnant of Chrift\ 
 feamlefs coat, and of the miraculous rod of Aaron. He 
 filled the houfe with Benediclines, and directed it to be the 
 place of interment for the Kings of Kent and himfelf, and 
 all fucceeding Archbifhops ; for he himfelf took care firft 
 to avTume that dignity. In forming his cemetery he ad- 
 hered to the old cuftom of placing it without the walls, 
 for which he fixed on that lituation in the gift of the con- 
 verted monarch. Ethelbert was interred here, and had the 
 following brief but curious epitaph : 
 
 ' Rex Ethelbertus hie clauditur in Polyandro 
 Fana pians certe Chrijio meat abfque Meandro. 
 
 His Queen Bert a, daughter of King Chilperic, of France, 
 a lady converted to Chriftianity in her own country, (for fhe 
 was grand- child to C/ovzs, firfc Chriflian King of France,) lies 
 here interred. Befides thefe, Edbuld and Ercembert, and a 
 long train of Saxon Kings, were depohted here, in conformity 
 to the defign of the great Auguftine. 
 
 The 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 161 
 
 The precincts were of vaft extent, and the buildings are 
 faid to have been very magnificent ; but, excepting a very 
 fuperb gateway, all appears a vaft mafs of ruins. There are 
 fome remains of Ethelbert's tower, in which was hung a 
 bell : there are fome parts of the offices, but in a raoft di- 
 lapidated ftate. 
 
 The fmall chapel of St. Pancras is within the precinct, The Chapel 
 tir 
 lum. 
 
 entirely built of Roman tile, and probably an original facel- ° F Pancras> 
 
 The Abbot, among the mitred, was fecond in rank, yet in 
 refpect to dignity, privileges and infolence, preceded all 
 the others of his brethren. He had right of mintage and 
 coinage, and aflumed fuch ftate that on his election, when 
 he was to receive the benediction of the Archbifhop, he 
 would not go to receive it from him, but obliged the Arch- 
 bid op to wait on him to perform the ceremony. The re- 
 venues of this houfe amounted to 14.1 3I. 4s. nd. and its 
 power and privileges extended far, and were always contefted 
 with true ecclefiaftical obftinacy. 
 
 Before I proceed to the diflblution of this great houfe, 
 I give (in order that the reader may have an idea of its wealth 
 and hofpitality) an account of the inftallation feaft of one 
 
 y of 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 of its Abbots, Ralph Born, on tbe 7th of March 1309, 
 as a circumftance extremely well worthy of record ; 
 
 
 
 £. 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 
 Wheat, 53 horfe-loads, quarters or feams 
 
 l 9 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 < < 
 
 Malt, 58 horfe-loads, quarters or feams 
 
 J 7 
 
 10 
 
 00 
 
 tt 
 
 Wine, 1 1 tons - 
 
 24 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 << 
 
 Oats, for the guefts as well within the gates as in the 
 
 
 
 
 
 " town, 20 loads - 
 
 04 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 a 
 
 For Spicery or Grocery - - 
 
 28 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 a 
 
 Wax, 300 pounds - 
 
 08 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 a 
 
 Almonds, 500 pounds - 
 
 00 
 
 72 
 
 00 
 
 a 
 
 CarcafTes of Oxen, 30 - 
 
 27 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 n 
 
 Hogs, 100 
 
 16 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 c< 
 
 Sheep, 200 - - 
 
 3° 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 «( 
 
 Geefe, 1000 - 
 
 16 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 << 
 
 Capons and Hens - 
 
 06 
 
 °5 
 
 00 
 
 <t 
 
 Pullets and Chickens, 463 
 
 00 
 
 74 
 
 00 
 
 (• 
 
 Pigs, 200 - - 
 
 
 100 
 
 00 
 
 «< 
 
 Swans, 34 - 
 
 07 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 it 
 
 Rabbits, 600 - - 
 
 l S 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 c< 
 
 Collars of Brawn, 17 
 
 00 
 
 65 
 
 00 
 
 44 
 
 Partridges, Mallards, Bitterns, Larks 
 
 18 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 44 
 
 Earthen-ware pots, 1000 
 
 00 
 
 15 
 
 00 
 
 44 
 
 Salt, nine horfe-loads - - 
 
 00 
 
 10 
 
 00 
 
 44 
 
 Drinking cups, 1400 
 
 
 
 
 44 
 
 Dimes and plates, 3300 
 
 
 
 
 «4 
 
 Brooms, (the Latin has it De Scopis and Gachis — what 
 
 
 
 
 
 44 the latter is I find not.) 
 
 08 
 
 04 
 
 00 
 
 " Fifh, 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 * * 
 
 tt>'/i rit.. /* A/I'll 1 • i. 
 
 tun, Cneele, Milk, Garlick - 
 
 £• 00 
 
 5° 
 
 00 
 
 
 Eggs, 9600 - - 
 
 04 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 4 ( 
 
 Saffron and Pepper - - 
 
 00 
 
 34 
 
 00 
 
 
 Coals, Cafks, and placing of Furnaces 
 
 00 
 
 j Q 
 48 
 
 00 
 
 tt 
 
 300 ells of Cloth - 
 
 04 
 
 OO 
 
 00 
 
 it 
 
 For making tables, treffels and dreffers 
 
 00 
 
 34 
 
 00 
 
 i t 
 
 Item given to the Cooks and their icullions 
 
 06 
 
 00 
 
 00 
 
 ti 
 
 And to the Minftrels 
 
 00 
 
 7° 
 
 CO 
 
 
 The fum total 
 
 
 °5 
 
 00 
 
 " Together with prefents : and there were as well men of consideration 
 " as others fitting at table in feveral places, at flrft 6000 and upwards, 
 ** anfwering to 300 dimes." 
 
 When the fumma dies et ineluElabile tempus of monadic 
 life arrived in our ifland, it is faid that the Monks of this 
 haughty Convent fhut their gates againft the mandates of the 
 tyrant : and that he was obliged to fend two of his ultima 
 ratios (two cannons) againft them. This ftory may not be 
 ill founded ; for I obferved in Stevens I. 335, that no more 
 than thirty-one Monks, including the Abbot, John EJfex, 
 fubferibed to the refignation, and probably the whole num- 
 ber was one hundred ; fo that two-thirds difTented, and 
 might occafion the fulminating mefTengers. Thefe thirty- 
 one monks only were penfioned ; the reft, it is very likely, 
 were deemed unworthy by reafon of their non-compliance. 
 
 y 2 Henry 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Henry feized on the houfe as a palace for himfelf. — 
 When his daughter Mary came to the throne, (he made a 
 grant of it to Cardinal Pole for life. In 1573 Queen Eli- 
 zabeth made this her refidence in one of her progrelTes, and 
 ftaid here a conflderable time. On her birth-day fhe was 
 nobly entertained by Archbifhop Grindal, where was an 
 ample room, as appears by the precinct, given in the Rev. 
 Mr. Goft ling's Plan of the City. It is with pleafure I men- 
 tion the helps I have received in my account of this City 
 from the Walk round Canterbury , published by the good 
 old man in his 81 ft year. I cannot but admire his eafe of 
 mind that could be collected enough for fuch a labour at fo 
 very advanced a period. 
 
 I omitted, among the military antiquities, an account of 
 the Caftle. The Keep at prefent only remains ; but the 
 parts of the other buildings may be traced : the whole fpace 
 included an area of four acres and one rood. Oppofite to it 
 is the North-gate. I by no means contend from that cir- 
 cumftance, that this had been a Roman fortrefs, which I do 
 not doubt was the Dungel-hill, and its appurtenances, pof- 
 fibly in after times occupied by the Saxons, and flightly 
 altered to their mode of fortification. This building has 
 all the marks of being Norman, and having for its architect 
 the famous Gundulphus, or at lean: a clofe imitator of his 
 
 manner. 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 manner. Mr. King has favoured us with engravings of fe- 
 veral of the parts of Canterbury Caftle, in the Archaelogia, 
 IV. and VI. and we may fafely reft on his opinion. I can- 
 not learn that this city ever flood a liege. It is a circum- 
 ftance that muft have rifen from accident. The extent of 
 the town might have required a garrifon of great force to 
 defend it in all parts ; but the Caftle might have held out 
 for a great length of time, had it been neceflary to fhew its 
 power of defence. 
 
 I will now return by the fame road to Sandown Caftle, 
 and in pafling by Sandwich take notice of a fmall ftream 
 which falls into the haven below the town called the Geft- 
 ling. It was remarkable for having been the mjans of exe- 
 cution of female criminals, who had judgment performed 
 on them by drowning in this water. It appears by a pre- 
 ferment in the reign of Edward III. Lefore the Judges 
 itinerant at Canterbury, that the Prior of Chrift-church 
 had arbitrarily turned the courfe of the Gtjlu'ng, fo that the 
 faid criminals could not be drowned ; and likewife that in 
 another cafe they had diverted fo much of the water that 
 there was not enough to carry the dead bodies into the fea, 
 fo that they remained a nuifance to the neighbourhood. 
 
 From Sandown Caftle I continued my journey to Deal, 
 
 about 
 
I 
 
 166 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 about half a mile diftant ; a very long town, extending a 
 great way parallel to and very near the beach. It coniifts 
 chiefly of three narrow ftreets, with fome buildings on the 
 weft fide, which is the moft ancient part of the town. It 
 is entirely fupported by the (hipping which lie in the Downs. 
 Almoft. every fhop appears filled with punch-bowls, drink- 
 ing-glaffes, cloaths, and every thing that can fupply a fail- 
 or's wants. Camden derives its name from the Britijh Dol, 
 a flat low fertile tract : hambarde from the Saxon Thy lie y a 
 word of the fame import. That this trad mull have been 
 Landing Place memorable to the Britons is evident, from its having been 
 of Caesar. e j t j ier t j ie pj ace where Julius Cafar effected his landing, 
 or fo near to it as to render it impofiible to want a name in 
 a part of Britain fo very populous as this was known to 
 have been even in thofe early days. I rather incline to think 
 the fpot was fomewhere within the Port us Rutupice. Pru- 
 dence would have directed him to land in a fheltered place, 
 in preference to an open more. As to the ftrefs which is 
 laid on the molle littus, the oozy coaft, nothing can be con- 
 cluded from that defcription at this period ; fuch a change 
 may feventeen centuries have effected. He was judicious in 
 his choice of debarkation ; on apertum planum et molle littus, 
 an open and level country, foft or free from rocks, which 
 might impede the landing, efpecially of his cavalry. 
 
 Here 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 167 
 
 Here it is probable he formed his naval camp, within 
 which he hauled his fleet to give it the necefTary repairs. 
 Dykes are ftill to be feen behind the town of Deal, at the 
 place called Romes-work. Neither of thefe are arguments ; 
 the dykes might or might not have been fea walls, made of 
 later date, to curb the invaflons of the waves ; but what 
 gives fome colour to their having been Ro?nes-work is, that 
 we to this day fee two artificial mounts, one to the weft and 
 the other to the eafl: of Deal, on which forts were erected 
 to protect his navy during his abfence on an expedition into 
 the inland parts of the country. Subdutlis navibus, caf- 
 trifque egregie munitis, eafdem copias, quas ante, prcefidio 
 navibus reliquit : tpfe eodem, unde redierat, proficifcitar. 
 
 The profperity of Deal may be dated from the increafe 
 of the Britijh commerce, and the confequential increafe of 
 the multitudes of mips which make the Downs their ren- 
 dezvous in their outward or inward voyages. They are the 
 only roads in which velTels can ride, from hence as far as 
 St. Helen s. The Downs, (for the north extent of them is 
 diftinguifhed by the name of the Small Downs,) or road, 
 lies between the land and the famous Godwine Sands. — Godwink's 
 
 Sands. 
 
 Much is fabled concerning thofe fatal (hoals ; that they had 
 been once a folid and populous tract, the property of Earl 
 Godwine, fometimes ftyled Earl of Kent, a man of great 
 
 abilities 
 
i68 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 abilities and courage, but infamous for cruelty and trea- 
 chery. He died in the year 1053. The Monks give him 
 a horrid end, and fay that dining at the table of Edward 
 the ConfefFor, and being charged with a murder, he with 
 horrid imprecations took a bit of bread and wifhed it might 
 be his bane if he was guilty : no fooner had he put it into 
 his mouth but he died in the moft dreadful manner. It 
 feems this bread had been corfned, i. e. accurfed according to 
 form by a certain Bifhop ; fo the purgation proved fatal to 
 the Earl. This was not all : the fea fwallowed up his 
 Kentifo eftates, and left them in the fliape we find them to 
 this day. Swift jocularly tells us, that to the prefent time 
 the houfes and fteeples are vifible beneath the waves. 
 
 Thus oft by Mariners are fhewn 
 
 (Unlefs the men of Kent are liars,) 
 Earl Gudtyinf* caftles overflown, 
 
 And palace-roofs, and fteeple-fpires. 
 
 Perhaps a natural folution may be as credible : we may 
 afcribe it to the vafl: inundation which A. D. 1100 over- 
 flowed part of Holla?id, fo that the water being carried 
 from this part of the fea rendered it fo mallow that places 
 which might have been fafely paffed over before now be- 
 came full of dangerous fhoals. Such was the cafe here : 
 <\ the 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 the Godzvine fands were two fub-marine hills, in ancient times 
 unnoticed by reafon of the depth. After this drainage their 
 heads at the ebb tides appeared above water, and became 
 moft dangerous to mariners : yet they have their utility — 
 mips anchor or moor beneath their fhelter, and the little 
 • they receive from the North and South Forelands, and find 
 protection from the winds, unlefs in very extraordinary tem- 
 pefts; fuch was the fatal one of November 1703. It began 
 five hundred leagues from the English coaft, and hurried the 
 homeward-bound mips, which happened to be in the Atlan- 
 tic, with amazing impetuofity up the channel, and as it 
 were fwept the ocean and filled every port : no fhip that 
 did not go direct before the wind could live. It pafTed over 
 England, France, Germany, Sweden, Fi?iland, Russia and 
 part of Tartary, and fpent itfelf amidfl the iflands of ice 
 in the Frozen Sea, I refer to a moft ample relation of its 
 dire effects by fea and land, given in the City Remembrancer, 
 Vol. II. from p. 43 to 187 : its height was in the night of 
 November the 26th, but it lafted with incredible fury four- 
 teen days. That dreadful night was uncommonly dark, 
 and made more hideous in many places by the quick coruf- 
 cations of lightning and the lingular glare of meteors and 
 imaginary fymptoms of earthquakes, while the rolling of 
 the thunder and the howling of the winds formed the ter- 
 rific diapason. It is faid that in various parts not fewer than 
 
 7. eight 
 
170 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 eight thoufand perfons perifhed. Rear- Admiral Beaumont ! , 
 in the Mary, a fourth rate, together with the Northu?nber- 
 land, Stirling Castle, and Restoration, three third rates, and 
 one fifth, were beaten to pieces againft the fands, and near 
 twelve hundred gallant failors loft to their country in the 
 midft of a molt important war. 
 
 The Godwine Sands confift of two parts, divided in the 
 middle by four narrow channels, about two fathoms deep ; 
 the middle called the Swash, navigable by boats, and that 
 only in fine weather. The Sands extend ten miles along 
 the coaft north and fouth, verging towards the eaft, and 
 from three and a half to fix miles diftant from the main 
 land. They have over them at all times fo little water as 
 not to be any where paffable, unlefs by very fmall vefTels ; 
 but at the ebb are in many parts dry. This frequently oc- 
 cafions a lingering death to the unhappy people who are 
 wrecked on them at low water : they often pafs with hor- 
 rible profpect the intermediate fpace between their getting on 
 the Sands and the return of the tide. It fometimes happens 
 that in cafe they are feen from land they are relieved if there 
 is a polTibility for a boat to be put off ; for, to do juftice to 
 the people of Deal, they are always ready to hazard their 
 own lives to fave thofe of their fellow- creatures : as to the 
 
 effe&s 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 171 
 
 effects fcattered on the Sand, they have at all times been 
 deemed fair prizes. 
 
 The Downs is the fpace between the Godwines and the The Downs. 
 more, where at all times vaft fleets are feen at anchor, in 
 water from four to twelve fathoms deep ; but in many parts 
 are over- falls and fands, fuch as the Brake, the Quern and 
 others, dry either wholly or partially at low water. To the 
 eaft of the northern Godwine is a bank of chalk, pollibly a 
 fragment of the disjoined continents. 
 
 The Gullstream runs, but with no great violence, be- 
 tween the Godwine Sands and the Brake. 
 
 Various veflels of very different conftru&ions are in ufe 
 in the port of Deal : they are worth enumerating. 
 
 The large Deal cutter with a fingle maft is Clinker built. Deal Vessels 
 The following are the dimenfions of one of the largeft 
 fize: 
 
 Forty-four feet four inches long. ^ 
 
 Sixteen feet nine inches broad. VForty-fix Tons. 
 
 Seven feet four inches deep. } 
 
 z 2 
 
 A Deal 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 A Deal Hooker is a veffel, fhort and heavy failing, for 
 carrying goods to and from London : 
 
 Thirty- feven feet eight inches long.^ 
 
 Fourteen feet feven inches broad. /Thirty Tons. 
 
 Six feet feven inches deep. ^ 
 
 A fix-oared Deal cutter is about 26 feet long, with a lug 
 fore-fail and fprit-mizen, and occafionally a lug main-fail, 
 clinker built. 
 
 Large Deal boats, called Constitution boats, have three 
 mafts, two with lug- fails and a fprit-mizen : 
 Thirty-four feet fix inches long. -\ 
 Ten feet broad. > About fifteen tons. 
 
 Three feet ten inches deep. ) 
 Thefe fail very faft, particularly from the wind ; their ufe 
 is to affift mips in diftrefs, and attend veffels palling through 
 or lying in the Downs. 
 
 Large flat boats ; heavy failing boats, with mafts and fails 
 like the laft, ufed for carrying anchors, cable, &c. to fhips 
 in the Downs : 
 
 Twenty-eight feet one inch long. 
 
 Ten feet broad. 
 
 Four feet fix inches deep. 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 Small flat boats, ufed for the Mackrel fiftiing, carrying 
 provifions, &c. : 
 
 Twenty-three feet long. 
 Seven feet fix inches broad. 
 Three feet deep. 
 
 Gallies are fitted with one lug-fail on a fhort mail in the 
 middle of the boat, but are more ufed for rowing. They 
 move with amazing fwiftnefs, but are calculated for fine wea- 
 ther only : 
 
 Twenty-three feet long. 
 
 Five feet three inches and four feet ten inches broad. 
 Three feet two inches deep. 
 
 Before the late regulation of the boats by Parliament, gal- 
 lies were built at Deal of a furprifing length ; one now lying 
 before that town was 36 feet long, four feet fix inches broad, 
 and only two feet two inches deep. This had been feized 
 from, the fmugglers. Some have been built 45 feet in 
 length. 
 
 Short Trots and Long Trots are varieties of the galley, 
 having two lug- fails, and being fomewhat broader and 
 deeper ; but all of them are clinker built. 
 
 The 
 
i 7 4 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Battle in 1639 The moft important actions which happened in the Downs 
 
 BETWEEN THE 
 
 Dutch and were the following. In Auguft 1639, the Dutch and Spa- 
 
 SPANIARDS. 
 
 niards were at that time at war : the latter had failed with a 
 fleet of flxty-feven fail, and twelve thoufand land-forces on 
 board for the relief of Fla?iders : off the Land's End they 
 fell in with the Dutch fleet, of much inferior force, com- 
 manded by Martifi, fon of Herbert Van Trumps who at- 
 tacked them ; but finding himfelf too weak, retired towards 
 Dunkirk, when, receiving a flrong reinforcement, he re- 
 newed the fight and forced them into the Downs. The 
 Spanish Admiral, Don Antonio de Ocquendo y applied to our 
 King for protection ; Charles interfered weakly, and fent 
 the Earl of Arundel to Ocquendo to defire him to haften his 
 retreat : his Majefty was fenfible of the difaffection of his 
 own fubjects, and had much reafon to doubt the loyalty of 
 the Lord High Admiral and of Rear Admiral Pennington 
 then commanding a flrong fleet in the Downs. The Spa- 
 niards contrived by flratagem to convey in the night four 
 thoufand men to Dunkirk. The fleets lay at anchor by 
 each other three weeks : at the end of that time a fentinel 
 in one of the Spanish^ fhot a failor of one of the Dutch 
 {hips: by this time the fleet of the latter was increafed to 
 the number of a hundred fhips. Van Trump fent the corps 
 to the English Admiral to convince him of the breach of 
 neutrality on the fide of the Spaniards^ and to inform him 
 
 of 
 
I 
 
 i 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 175 
 
 of his refolution to attack them the next day. He bore 
 down on the aggreffors, forced them from their cables, 
 drove twenty-three on more, of which three were burnt, 
 two funk, and two beaten to pieces on the coaft : of thofe 
 which were faved the English took poffeilion, to prevent 
 them from falling into the hands of the Dutch. Ocquendo 
 failed away with thirty fail. Van Trump purfued, took 
 and deftroyed the greatefl part, and the few which efcaped 
 with their Admiral found fafety in the harbour of Dunkirk, 
 Two medals were ftruck in Holland on this important vic- 
 tory. The Dutch fent a folemn embafly to our Monarch 
 to excufe the affair : they feemed to have been in the right \ 
 but had it been otherwife, Charles was not in a fituation to 
 have refented the infult. As to the Spaniards, they remem- 
 bered it long after, for it was revenged on the fon by their 
 neglecl of him on his application to their Court in 1651, 
 after the fucceffes of the great Ufurper. 
 
 A little beyond the town of Deal is the Caftle. Here 
 Anne of Cleves, in November 1540, made her inaufpicious Anne of 
 landing, and was received in great ftate by Sir Thomas Che- ^^DeIl** 0 * 
 nie, Warden of the Cinque Ports. In a few days after fhe Castle 
 was prefented to her dread Sovereign, who quickly pro- 
 nounced, her a Flanders Mare, and in a very (hort time 
 changed her for Catherine Howard. 
 
 In 
 
176 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 In the neighbourhood of Deal, betides other curious 
 plants I have before mentioned, is found the Hippophae 
 
 Rhamnoides , ox Sea Buckthorn, Gerard 1334, Clus. Hist. 
 110. Fl. Lapp. 372. Fl. Dan. 265. This is a fpecies un- 
 difcovered in this kingdom in the time of Gerard-, but it 
 has been fince found on the fandy coafts of Kent, on thofe 
 of Lincolnshire near Li?idsey, and again near Whitby in 
 Yorkshire. 
 
 w.umere About a mile farther ftands Walmere Castle, the third of 
 
 C A ST I* E • 
 
 Henry's upon this range ; and to the weft of it is the village 
 of the fame name. There, not far from the Church, are 
 ftill fome remains of the manfion of the ancient family of 
 the Criols or Kirials. Sir John Kiriel, who is faid to have 
 had a confiderable command at the battle of Agincourt, 
 and his fon Sir Thomas, Knight of the Garter, who was 
 barbaroufly put to death by Margaret of Anjou after the 
 firft battle of St. Alba?is, were of this place ; but they had 
 flourished in Kent as early as the reign of Henry HI. 
 
 Immediately beyond Walmere Castle the land begins to 
 afcend rapidly, and again oppofes to the fea a range of chalky 
 cliffs. On the fummit is the Church of St. Margaret at 
 Cliffe, a foundation of very great antiquity : the windows 
 and the door beneath the ruined tower fteeple are of the 
 1 Saxon 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Saxon, or perhaps Norman architecture, with round, arches, 
 and the capitals of the pil afters and the mouldings moft curi- 
 oully carved. The accounts of this Church certainly fall very 
 fhort of the time of its erection, for the firft mention of it is in 
 the time of Edward I. when his Queen Elinor beftowed the 
 advowfon on Christ churchy Canterbury, beneath, is a bay 
 feemingly excavated out of the cliffs. This is exactly oppofite 
 to Calais. 
 
 St. Margaret's Church is the leading mark for feamen 
 into the inner channel of the Downs, as by night are the 
 two Phari a little to the weft, fignals to avoid the dangers 
 of the more fouthern Godwins fand. 
 
 The cliffs rife to a vafl height, and are quite precipitous. 
 During fummer multitudes of Razor-bills , Br. Zool. No. 
 230 ; Guillemots , 234; Grey Gulls, 246, and other Gulls 
 refort here to breed ; alfo Jackdaws and a few Cornish 
 Choughs. The Guillemots are the birds which the Comte de 
 Bvffon miftook for Grebes, and fays that the fifhermen of 
 Picardy come over to take ; it is pofiible that they vifit 
 thefe cliffs, and take the birds, for the fame reafon as our 
 fifhermen do, to ufe as baits for lobfters and other fifh. 
 Grebes never frequent rocks, but in the breeding feafon 
 refort to the frefh water lakes, where they build their float- 
 ing nefts with flags and other aquatic plants. 
 
 a a Near 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Near the Cliffs are feveral fmall barrows, beneath which 
 in fquare graves cut in the chalk, have been interred the fin- 
 gle corpfes of grown-up perfons, or of children ; the found- 
 nefs of the teeth is remarkable. No trinkets have been 
 found in thefe places of interment, and nothing except the 
 iron head of a fmall arrow. Graves of this kind are frequent 
 in many parts of East Kent, on the chalky downs, where the 
 foil is too bad for cultivation* 
 
 From hence to Dover Castle is high land and open arable 
 country ; the diftance about three miles. The Oedicnemus, 
 the Norfolk Bustard, is not uncommon here, and lays its 
 eggs on the fallow grounds. I refer the reader for its hif- 
 tory to No. 100, Vol. I, of my British Zoology* , 
 
 In my journey of this year, in palling over thefe downs 
 in the morning, the furface was covered with a thin vapour 
 a few inches in height and equally diffufed. It feems to 
 arife from the fulphureous Pyritte, fo abundantly lodged in 
 the chalky ftrata : there had been, for one or two preced- 
 ing days, a great fall of rain, which had heated thefe bodies; 
 and notwithflanding it might not have fet them on fire, yet 
 was fufflcient to excite this vifible exhalation. 
 
 Do vkr Castle. Dover Castle is feen on a fudden, and fhews, in all its vafr. 
 
 extent 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 179 
 
 extent of defence, a raoft ftriking and magnificent fight : the 
 whole profpecl: is amazingly grand : the populous town of 
 Dover beneath, forming a crefcent terminated by van: chalky- 
 precipices at each end, and in part overhung by others 
 threatening perhaps a not very diftant deftruction — and a 
 deep vale, watered by a fmall ftream, and bounded by lofty 
 downs, finifh the view on this fide ; when, on the other, 
 the celebrated ftreight, the town of Calais, and the French 
 fhore, with correfpondent cliffs ffretching far to the fouth, 
 afford a moft beautiful and uncommon coup d" ceil. The 
 important hiftory of both the fcenes crowd into one's mind, 
 and intereft the imagination in the ftrongeir. manner. 
 
 Here I revolve on very diftant times, to not lefs fpace 
 than two thoufand and forty-five years ago, when Ccesar 
 failed on his firft expedition into Britain, with an intention 
 of landing in this place. At that period, inftead of an 
 open fea, was an harbour penetrating far into the land, nar- 
 row, and fo bounded by mountains that the Britons had it in 
 their power to annoy his forces from the heights which im- 
 pended over the more. Cicero, who probably had his ac- 
 counts from Ccesar, mentions the difficult accefs to our ifland \ 
 and with ftrong exprefiion very defcriptive of our natural 
 defence, " Constat enim aditiis insulce esse munitos mirijicis 
 molibus" The orator had a very indifferent opinion of the 
 
 a a 2 expedition, 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 expedition, fuppofing that the only benefit which would re- 
 fult from it would be a flave trade ; and with much plea- 
 fantry he tells Atticus^ that he muft not expect, among the 
 flaves, men of letters and able muficians. 
 
 Ccesar, aftonifhed at the fight of a mountainous coaft 
 covered with armed men, thought proper to make his at- 
 tempt in another quarter. We fee his fuccefs on the flat 
 Rutupian more. Notwithftanding he is filent on the fub- 
 je£t, yet it is highly probable that the Britons had a forti- 
 fied port on the adjacent hills ; fuch he mentions the conge- 
 nerous Gauls to have had on their coafts : this I notice to 
 lhew my fufpicions that the Romans were not the firft who 
 occupied the fire of Dover Castle, How often do we find 
 them feated within the Vallum of a British camp ! Such a 
 one feems to me to have been the origin of the vaft fofs we 
 Hill fee in the remoteft part of the precinct of Dover Castle^ 
 at the end nearly impending over the fea. The Romans 
 altered it to their mode of fortification, and within its limits 
 we found the indifputable remains of their buildings. Deep 
 xofTes furround them in a form inclining to oval, but pofiibly 
 may have been altered by the fucceeding Saxons. 
 
 The ancient Pharos ftill remains tolerably entire. Exter- 
 nally, the lower part is of much greater circumference than 
 i the 
 
THO? erpingham 
 
 Sni d Ja.nl. 1SOI. »y .£<?«. .Uardmg US l J aUMul' 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 the upper, and flopes off with a roof midway to the fides 
 of the original tower. This I imagine to have been an ad- 
 dition of later date, but, like the original, externally of 
 an octagonal form. The Pharos is, within, fquare, excef- 
 fively ftrong, and entirely compofed of Roman mafonry ; the 
 windows are fmall, placed in tiers one above the other ; they 
 are arched with Roman tiles, as is the entrance into the 
 building. Much, tile appears in various parts, and on the 
 ground is one of an enormous fize. The walls are ten feet 
 thick, and founded on a bed of clay ftrongly rammed down. 
 This probably was built very foon after the Romans got pof- 
 feffion of the place. They were too prudent to leave a 
 port of this importance without erecting this guide to then- 
 numerous fleets. 
 
 It was cafed in later times probably when Sir Thomas 
 Erpingham was Warden of the Cinque Ports, for his arms 
 are flill to be feen on a ftone on the north fide. Sir Thomas 
 was Knight of the Garter, had the direction of the works 
 in this caftle in the time of Henry IV. but more diftin- 
 guifhed by his gallant conduct in the battle of Agi?icourt> 
 when he led the archers to the charge which decided the 
 glorious event. 
 
 Adjacent to the Pharos are the ruins of the Church : 
 
 moll 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 moft of the fquare tower, and many other parts, are of the 
 original Roman mafonry : other parts have been altered or 
 added to. I fee within the Pharos a Gothic arch, which had 
 been made in the wall to open into the Nave. In other 
 parts I obferved the narrow window with the rounded top, 
 in all probability genuine Saxon. In the more widened 
 round arch, in the zig-zag mouldings, may be traced the 
 Norman manner. All this appears in what is called the Royal 
 Chapel^ and, together with round pillars and their neat but 
 peculiar capitals, evince the hand of that people. 
 
 In this Chapel were depofed the remains of feveral great 
 men. Among them Sir Robert Ashto?i, who died in 1384; 
 and Henry Howard, Earl of Northa?npton, who departed in 
 1 6 1 4 : both thefe were Wardens of the Cinque Ports ; the 
 laft had a magnificent monument, which, on the approach- 
 ing ruin of the Chapel, was removed to the Hofpital at Green- 
 wich. 
 
 I will not fcruple to fuppofe this might have been a Ro- 
 man Temple or Sacellum, even fuppofing it was originally 
 built in the form of a Crofs. Montfaucon produces num- 
 bers of examples in which that figure feems to have been 
 preferred. 
 
 Eadbald y 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Eadbald, King of Kent, after his converfion by Arch- 
 
 bifhop Laurentius, eftabliihed in this Church, before the 
 
 year 640, twenty-four fecular Canons, which were removed Canons esta- 
 blished HERE 
 
 in the tenth century to the Church of St. Martin in Dover, before 640. 
 Within that period the alterations in the Saxon ftyle mufr. 
 have taken place. It is to King Lucius that the Antiquaries 
 afcribe the honour of the foundation of this Church ; but, till 
 they have fettled the exiftence of the good Prince, I mud 
 not infift on that part of hiftory. 
 
 Montfaucon> Stukely, and Mr. Grose have given good re- 
 prefentations of this Church, and the Pharos ; of which thofe 
 of my ingenious and convivial friend are far the moft ac- 
 curate. 
 
 The Saxons took porTeflion of this important poft foon Saxons. 
 after the retreat of the Romans ; it is even faid that Horsa 
 himfelf aflumed the command. The changes that were 
 made are to be traced, fuch as, a large artificial mount, and 
 numbers of trenches and high dikes immediately to the 
 north of the Roman fortrefs, including a new precinct, which Saxon 
 
 Precinct. 
 
 we are told was cut through the chalky ftxata. The fofles 
 encircled the whole fortrefs. Thefe additions were all of 
 earth : thofe which were raifed of ftone in the Saxon asra 
 are, by Mr. Lyon, attributed to Alfred the Great. The 
 
 3 fame 
 
184 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 fame writer alfo makes Earl Godwine the builder of the firft 
 tower in the prefent or exterior precinct of the Caftle. 
 
 by the After the battle of Hastings, the Conqueror appeared be- 
 
 C.ONQUEROR. ° 1 11 
 
 fore this Caftle ; it was at that time crowded with foldiers, 
 but the dread of his valour foon induced them to furrender. 
 He knew the importance of the fortrefs, and during his ftay 
 here of eight days gave it every new ftrength : he appointed 
 his half brother Odo, Bifhop of Bayeux, Governor ; but being 
 made foon after fenfible of his treachery, difplaced him, and 
 appointed John Fie?i?ies in his room. He called to his aflift- 
 ance Gilbert de Magminot, another of the Knights, who came 
 over with the Conqueror to aflift him in the improvement 
 Strengthened of the fortifications, and by his help ftrengthened and com- 
 pleted the inner or Saxon precinct. 
 
 This was protected by towers diftinguifhed by different 
 names, fo probably they were rebuilt by the perfons whofe 
 titles they bear, or named after them as a token of refpect. 
 One is named De la Pole's, from the unfortunate De la Pole 
 Duke of Suffolk', others bear the name of Magminot : others 
 of King Arthur and his Queen Gwynever, who, however 
 illuftrious they might have been in their day, had no pre- 
 tenfions to any fhare in the architecture. 
 
 BY HIM. 
 
 In 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER, 
 
 185 
 
 In the centre of this precinct is a noble Keep, or Square 
 Tower : this was built or more likely rebuilt by Henry II. 
 on the model of thofe erected by that great military Archi- 
 tect, Gundulphus Bimop of Rochester^ who defigned the 
 IfhiteTower in the Tower of London, and that at Roche- 
 ster. There mull: have been one on the lite prior to this 
 magnificent pile, for neither Saxons or Normans were with- 
 out their Keeps, or, as the French call them, Donjons.— 
 This is of a great fize, fquare, with fquare towers (lightly 
 falient at each corner. The prefent entrance is up a flight 
 of fteps on the outfide, but within is a magnificent feries of 
 {lairs round two fides of the Cattle, leading through one vef- 
 tibule to another, and to a fuperb portal as high as the third 
 ftory, in which were the grand apartments. The veftibules 
 and portal were clofed by ftrong gates, poflibly to guard 
 aeainft a fudden attack : the veftibules are enriched with 
 round arches and^ zig-zag mouldings. In this upper ftory 
 refided the Governor, or the King whenever he vifited the 
 caftle : in the fecond floor lived the garrifon ; in the lower 
 were kept the ftores and provifions, and beneath all was the 
 darkfome miferable dungeon for the prifoners. In this 
 tower is alfo a chapel, with a door- cafe in the Saxo?i 
 ftyle. 
 
 The well is three hundred and fixty feet deep ; the Water Wells. 
 
 b b bucket 
 
i86 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 bucket is brought up by two men working within a vaft 
 wheel. There were two or three other wells in different 
 parts of the Caftle, of equal depths ; fo the garrifon could 
 never be in want of that neceffary article. 
 
 From this precinct is a paffage, under a fmall portal, into 
 the exterior or greater yard : the entrance into this is through 
 Great Gate, a magnificent arch facing the Deal road. The gate is large 
 and lofty, fquare in form, and with two round towers in front 
 dilated greatly from their bafe a confiderable way up to 
 give them greater ftrength : before, it had been a deep fofs, 
 continued from fide to fide of the hill ; it had its draw- 
 bridge, and every part of the entrance the ufual protection. 
 This was called Fiennes New gate ', or the Constable's Tower, 
 for to that officer was committed the care ; it was alfo fup- 
 pofed to have been his principal refidence. The prefent 
 Improvements gate muft have been built longfince the days of Fiennes, on 
 IN THE Castle * the fite of the more ancient ; poiTibly in the time of Ed- 
 ward III. or IV. for both thofe Monarchs made great im- 
 provements in the Caftle. Edward IV. laid out ten thou- 
 fand pounds, by the advice of Lord Cobham, in repairing, 
 fortifying and beautifying the works. This building is the 
 entrance into the exterior or great precinct, which inclofes 
 thirty-five acres of ground: the walls, with their feveral 
 towers, guard three fides \ they extend to the edge of the 
 
 i vaft 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 vaft chalky precipice which impends over the fea, any far- 
 ther defence on that fide being needlefs. 
 
 Henry VIII. was of a different opinion ; pofilbly to guard 
 againft a furprife by fea, he built at the foot of the cliff on 
 the more one of the many little caftles he erected in the 
 year 1539 ; it was called the Motes Bulwark, and remains 
 garrifoned. 
 
 Matthew Paris, contemporary with Henry III. ftyles this Create* 
 
 . Events; 
 
 fortrefs the Key and Barrier of the whole kingdom ; it 
 might be deemed impregnable : the Saxons, ftruck with a 
 panic, gave it up inftantly to the Conqueror. Stephen per- 
 fuaded Wulkehn de Magnmiot, the conftable, to put it into 
 his hands during his war with the Emprefs Maud ; King 
 John entrufted it to the brave and faithful Hubert de Burgh, 
 created by him Earl of Kent, who in 12 16 defended it 
 againft all the erTorts of Louis Dauphin of France, who, 
 united with the difcontented Barons, befieged it with the 
 utmoft vigour : he lay fifteen weeks before the Caftle, and 
 was continually repulfed with great lofs ; he fwore that he 
 would not raife the {lege till he had taken the place and 
 hanged the whole garrifon. His father had fworn to him, 
 by St. James's arm, that, till he had got poiTeflion of Dover 
 Castle, he had not gained a foot in England: this was very 
 
 b b 2 foon 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 foon verified on the death of King John. Louis attempted 
 to try the effect of corruption on the ftout Hubert : but all 
 in vain ; he continued firm in his allegiance to the young 
 Monarch, and thus, by his wife conduct, preferved his coun- 
 try from becoming a province of France. No one is igno- 
 rant of the cruel perfecutions he underwent from the un- 
 grateful Prince ; his difgrace, and various fufferings till his 
 rtleafe by death in 1243. 
 
 It does not appear that Dover Castle was ever taken by 
 force from the time of William the Conqueror. In the year 
 1 642, fo negligent was the King of this important place, that 
 he fufFered it to be furprifed by a handful of men under 
 one Drake. He was well acquainted with the place, fcaled 
 the cliffs next to the fea, fecured the fentinel, and made 
 himfelf matter of the weak garrifon. 
 
 Before I defcend from thefe heights, it would be unjuft not 
 to pay due tribute to the hardy adventurers, Mr. Jefferies 
 and M. Blanchard, who, fcorning the vulgar method of 
 croffing the Streights, on December 1784, made ufe of an 
 aerial packet, and robbed Mr. Mitiet of his fare ; they fet 
 fail in their balloon from the edge of the cliff, while can- 
 nons announced their departure. The dangers they en- 
 countered, either by rifing as high in the air as Sancho did 
 
 on 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 189 
 
 on Cl^HenOy or of tumbling into trie water like their bro- 
 ther Phaeton, gave fcope to all their (kill. To avoid the laft 
 evil, th :y difcharged fo much of their ballaft that in order 
 to rife again they were obliged to ftrip themfelves to their 
 waif, coats ; they even prepared againft the worft, by putting 
 on their fwimming girdles: but the precaution was needlefs ; 
 they mounted again, and, after a paffage of about two hours, 
 alighted ^fe\y on the fummit of the foreft De Felmores y 
 covered with aerial laurels and the juft applaufe of the two 
 admiring kingdoms. 
 
 The defcent from the Cidle to the Town is extremely Town of 
 rapid : the entrance of the harbour of the ancient Dubris is 
 now fclid land, and covered wkh feveral flreets, which ex- 
 tend a little way up the valley, in places where once rode 
 the navies of Rome\ anchors and other naval remains have 
 been found deup under the foil, and evince the truth. The 
 iituation is very beautiful, bounded by lofty verdant downs, 
 and faced with fnowy precipices of chalk. One foars to a 
 tremendous height over a long ftreet which runs beneath, 
 far to the eaft, and is called Snare- street, as if it was expe£ted 
 it would fome time or other be caught in the lapfe of the 
 impending cliff. 
 
 In early times Dover was much more populous than it is 
 3 at 
 
190 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 at prefent. Here were feven churches, five of which are 
 quite demolifhed ; St. Marys and St. Jameses only remain. 
 The Town was alfo defended by walls and towers ; eleven of 
 the towers had gates beneath ; the names are ft ill retained, 
 but the portals long fmce deftroyed. This did not prevent 
 its being furprifed and burnt by the French in 1296, who, 
 under the conduct of a traitor, Sir Thomas Turberville, en- 
 tered the place : the men efcaped on the firft alarm ; but the 
 women and children were moft barbaroufly put to the fword. 
 Great riches were carried away : but the citizens had their 
 revenge ; for, when they had recovered from their furprife, 
 they flew eight hundred of the French > who had advanced 
 into the country in hopes of plunder. 
 
 Roman Road. The marks of its Roman antiquity are either the branch 
 of the military way which finifhed here from Londinium 
 through Durobrivis or Rochester, and Durovernum or Can- 
 a Pharos, terbury, and the fmall reliques of the Pharos above the fide 
 of the port, known by the name of the Devil's Drop. The 
 foundations in the memory of man were obferved to have 
 been octagonal, like the Pharos in Dover Castle, and that at 
 Boulogne called he Tour d'Ordre. 
 
 An Hypocaust, difcovered by the Rev. Mr. Lyon, marks 
 the fite of the Roman town, and proves that the old harbour 
 
 could 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 could not extend farther than the prefent Church of St. 
 Mary, clofe to which it was found. On one of the tiles 
 were the letters C. I. BR. Signifying the Cohort Prima Bri~ 
 tannica ; the cohort which was pofted at Dubris. It wa 
 one of the Legio Augusta and Legio Britannica raifed by 
 Augustus and fent here under Vespasian, A. D. 43, and 
 which, from the length of its flay, (for it did not quit the 
 ifland till the total defertion of Britain by the Romans^) 
 was ftyled Britannica. After performing a thoufand gallant 
 actions, it was removed by Theodosius, in the reign of Va- 
 lentinian, to Rutupice, its head quarters, from whence this 
 cohort was detached to do duty at Dubris. 
 
 Some English Hiftorians, probably from the British, pre- 
 tend that the port was choked up by Arviragus, a British Harbour 
 
 CHOKED UP* 
 
 Prince, hufband of the famous Boadicea. Of this there 
 feems no fufficient proof ; it probably was gradually filled 
 up with fand deferted by the fea, in the fame manner as 
 that of Rutupice. 
 
 It feems to have been a considerable place as early as the 
 feventh century, for about the year 696 Wihtred, King of 
 Kent, removed the Canons from their College in the Caflle to Canons re- 
 the Church of St. Martine in the Town, and increafed their theTown. 
 number to twenty-two : he found it incompatible with the 
 
 fafety 
 
92 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 fafety of the Caflle to leave them there ; their lives were 
 irregular, and they were continually going out at all hours : 
 they continued here till the year iioo, when their manners 
 Expelled, grew fo licentious, that neither wife, widow, nor maid was 
 fafe from their attacks in or out of the town. Corbeil, 
 Archbifliop of Canterbury , made complaint to Henry I. who 
 gave him all their porTtflions, and directed him to replace 
 them with a more moral fet : he founded a new Monaftery, 
 which he defigned for Augustines ; but dying before he could 
 complete his intentions, Arehbifhop Theobald , in u 53, by 
 the authority of Henry II. beftowed it and all its porTeilions 
 EPLACEDwiTH 0n tne Monks of St. Benedict \ but, contrary to the King's 
 
 ENEDICTINES. 
 
 defign, Theobald^ to aggrandize his See, referved the nomi- 
 nation of the Prior: but in 1271 the nomination was left 
 to the Monks ; yet the Monks of Canterbury continued their 
 oppreflion to fuch a degree that Henry III. was obliged to 
 direct writs to the con liable of the Cattl e to protect thofe of 
 this Priory in their rights. The Church built for the Ca- 
 nons by Wihtred was near the market-place, fome remains 
 of which are ftill vifible. That begun by Archbimop Corbeil 
 (lands a little way out of town ; the remains area gateway 
 The New with a Gothic arch, and three large buildings : the leaft of 
 
 jPr IORY» 
 
 them is fuppofed to have been the chapel ; the windows end 
 in round arches, and are ornamented with pilafters ; the next 
 is a hundred feet long and thirty broad, with feven fmall 
 
 windows: 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 i93 
 
 windows : the third has at one corner a fmall tower, and 
 within two fine Gothic arches with round pillars and neat 
 capitals : the outrides of both thefe buildings have buttreffes 
 quite to the top ; the Gothic windows are innovations. The 
 remainder of thefe two buildings feem of the architecture 
 of the time, the work of Henry L after the death of Kor- 
 beil, when the place was called Novum Opus Sancti Marti?il y 
 and the New Work. Its revenues at the dhTolution were, 
 according wfiug dale, 170I. 14s. nd. to Speedy 232L is. $d. 
 The laft Prior was John Folkstone, alias Lambert, who fur- 
 rendered the houfe, and received a penfion of 20I. a year. — 
 At that time the number of Monks was reduced to fixteen. 
 
 The Maison Dieu was a hofpital founded by the great Maison Dieu. 
 Hubert de Burgh in the beginning of the reign of Henry III. 
 for the relief of pilgrims, the infatuated crowds who re- 
 forted to the fhrine of Thomas Becket. Here were feveral 
 poor Brothers and Sifters placed under the direction of a 
 Matter ; John Clark was the laft : at the diftblution its re- 
 venues were found to amount to 159I. 1 8s. 6d. clear. The 
 building is at prefent converted into the Victualling Office ; 
 it had been an elegant pile : the Church had a fquare tower, 
 and a row of windows of elegant Gothic tracery, which 
 were ftanding in the time of Buck. 
 
 c c I do 
 
194 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 St. Bartholo- 
 mew's Hospi- 
 tal. 
 
 Knights 
 Templars. 
 
 I do not recoiled whether any part of St. Bartholomew* % 
 hofpital, founded in 1141 at the inflance of Osbern and 
 Goodwin^ two Monks of the Priory of St. Martin, for poor 
 leprous perfons, exifls. It was fubjected to the Prior, and 
 continued to the diffoluton. 
 
 To thefe I may add a houfe of Knights Templars, which 
 flood near the Devil's Drop, and fell with the potent Order. 
 In this houfe King John, on May 15, 12 13, made the 
 fhameful reddition of his crown to the Pope through the 
 Legate Pa7idulf, and received it again as his vaflfal, agreeing 
 to pay annually for England feven hundred thoufand marks, 
 and for Ireland three hundred thoufand. Poflibly John 
 made no fcruple of refigning a crown of which he was con- 
 fcious he was no more than an ufurper, and to which he 
 imagined he might derive fome fort of a title from the infal- 
 libility of his Holinefs, 
 
 Harbour. But it was the harbour that gave importance to the place. 
 
 In the time of Edward I. all perfons whatfoever bound to 
 or for France were by act of Parliament obliged to embark 
 from this port. 
 
 Great Persons Numbers of Princes have landed here at different times. 
 
 WHO LANDED 
 
 here. William Rufus, in 1095 ; the Emperor Sigismimd, in 141 6. 
 
 1 On 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 On his arrival, the Duke of Gloucester and feveral other great 
 men went into the fea with their fwords drawn, and de- 
 clared they would oppofe his landing if he came in any 
 other character than their King's relation and friend — not as 
 Emperor and fuperior : his errand was to make peace be- 
 tween Henry and the King of France. Here alfo landed, in 
 1520, the Emperor Charles V. and was met by our oftenta- 
 tious Monarch, Henry, with all the pomp he naturally af- 
 fected. Charles\ intent was to prevent the interview be- 
 tween Henry and Francis I. but to no purpofe ; the fplcndid 
 folly of the Champ drap a 1 ' or, pofTerTed Henry too ftrongly to 
 liften to any consideration : he immediately after the depar- 
 ture of Charles failed in the Harry Grace de Dieu, gave 
 his fails of cloth of gold to the wind, landed at Calais, and 
 foon after enjoyed the magnificent interview, as vain as the 
 confequences were fugacious. 
 
 By the year 1544 this mighty friendship was difTolved. 
 Henry entered into a ftricT: league with the Emperor, failed 
 with all the fplendour of his former expedition, in a fhip 
 with fails of the fame rich materials ; landed at Calais, made 
 a fplendid march to Boulogne, took the town, and retained it 
 till his death, that coftly unavailing fruit of his campaign. 
 
 c c 2 
 
 This 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 This port has been alfo the fcene of more peaceful pomp. 
 In 1382, Anne, fifter of the Emperor Winceslaus, in her 
 way to the nuptial bed of Richard II. had no fooner landed 
 than the fea fell into the moft: violent agitation, the effect 
 of an earthquake j the fhip (he had juft left was beat tc* 
 pieces, and many others greatly damaged, omens of the 
 turbulent reign experienced by this excellent woman. 
 
 In 1670 the accomplifhed and beautiful Henrietta, Du~ 
 chefs of Orleans, lifter to Charles II. met here her brother 
 the Duke of York and the whole Court* Here fhe con- 
 firmed her brother James in the Catholic religion, of which 
 he before was only fufpected. This interview was in reality 
 political ; for, under the influence of his fair fifter, Charles 
 figned the infamous treaty of alliance with France. A fort- 
 night was paflfed here with the utmoft feftivity. Scandal af- 
 ferts an intrigue between her Highnefs and the Duke of 
 Monmouth during this gay feafon : foon after her return to 
 France, fhe died in eight hours, in the moft excruciating 
 torments. The Public attribute her death to poifon ad- 
 miniftered by her hufband, Philip, Duke of Orlea?is, from 
 motives of jealoufy. She probably loft her life by poifon: 
 the more candid acquit her of any infidelity, but afcribe the 
 caufe to the revenge of her unprincipled fpoufe from a very 
 
 different 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 197 
 
 different caufe. In her laft moments fhe declared to them 
 that (he was the more willing to die becaufe her confcience 
 upbraided her with nothing ill in her conduct towards him. 
 
 I omitted the mention of the embarkation of Mary, the 
 beloved fifter of Henry VIII. at this port in 1 5 1 4, on her 
 way to the feeble arms of Louis XII. In lefs than three 
 months his pafTion coft him his life ; he died in her em- 
 braces, and left her to the choice of her heart, the flout 
 Charles Brandon. Thefe frequent vifits to Dover gave him 
 an opportunity of knowing its importance, and of confider- 
 ing the moll: effectual means of improving the harbour. — 
 Henry, amidft all his great blemifhes, had a moft enlarged 
 heart. In the year 1533 he began a work worthy of a great Henry viii. 
 
 FOUNDS A 
 
 Prince : he laid the foundation of a noble Pier ; it was com- FINE PlER ; 
 pofed of two rows of main pofb, and great piles of twenty- 
 five or twenty-fix feet in length, which were let into holes 
 hewn in the rocks beneath, and fome were cafed with iron 
 and driven into the chalky ftratum. The pofts and piles 
 were fattened with iron bands, bolts, &c. and then all were, 
 filled with great chalk-Hones, beach, &c. : the bottom 
 was compofed of huge rocks of ftone of twenty tons weight 
 a-piece, brought from Folkstone on floats of timber fup- 
 ported by empty calks, a fyftem fince adopted by the En- 
 gineers 
 
ic8 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 gineers of Cherbourg to float the vait caissons. This was the 
 invention of John Youngs on whom Henry fettled an annual 
 penfion. The King expended on this bufinefs eighty thou- 
 fand pounds. He alfo founded on the one fide the firft 
 Arch-cliffs and on the other the Black Bulwark. The Pier 
 was defigned to be a hundred and thirty-one roods, or feven 
 hundred and twenty yards in length, and to run directly eaft- 
 ward into the fea. About a hundred and twenty yards were 
 left unfinifhed ; death took him off from this noble project: 
 it was interrupted by the nonage and early death of his fon : 
 Mary continued it faintly ; her mind was too deeply in- 
 volved in bigotry to complete any great defign. 
 
 which does By neglect the fea rolled in fuch quantity of gravel quite 
 through the piles as totally to choke up the harbour and form 
 a fhelf on the outlide, fo as to annihilate thefe patriotic deiigns 
 of the tyrant King. Such was its ftate till about the year 1583, 
 Attempts of when, after various projects, an attempt was made to reftore 
 it to ufe. The plan adopted was, the ftrengthening it with 
 walls of earth after the manner of Rom?iey marfh : by intenfe 
 application it was foon completed at a fmall expence : the 
 two walls and their appurtenances coft but twenty-feven 
 hundred pounds. A vefTel of fifty tons could fail in at 
 quarter flood, and a fhip of three hundred at full flood. — 
 
 The 
 
 SUCCEEDING 
 MONARCHS. 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 199 
 
 The Black Bulwark was pulled down to form one of the 
 pier heads, but the fort Arch-cliff remains to this day, 
 transformed into a ftrong defence. 
 
 This noble defign was not of long duration. In thefuc- 
 ceeding reign its deftru&ion was threatened by the rolling in 
 of the gravel, and notwithftanding every effort was ufed, it 
 was reduced to its prefent ftate. At this time the piers are PresentState. 
 improving, but no veiTel of any confiderable burden will 
 venture in. It is the well known place of pafTage between 
 the two kingdoms, and the ftation of packets. 
 
 Dover was one of the ancient Cinque Ports, Thefe took One of the 
 
 Cinque Ports. 
 
 their name from their number ; not but before the Conqueft 
 there were only three, Dover, Sandwich and Romney, and 
 were called the Havens. The Conqueror added Hastings 
 and Rye, after which they were known by their prefent 
 name. Other towns were in time joined to thefe ; but they 
 were fubordinate to the five principal, and as if it were funk 
 in them. The extract given by Camden taken out of the 
 King's Exchequer will befl mew the end of their inflitu- 
 tion, and the fervices they owed their country. 
 
 9< Hastings, with its members, ought to find twenty-one 
 <c fhips at the King's fummons, and there ought to be in 
 
 " every 
 
200 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 " every {hip twenty- one men, able, fitly qualified, well- 
 C( armed, and well furnifhed for the King's fervice ; yet fo 
 " that the fummons be made on the King's behalf forty days 
 c< before ; and when the aforefaid mips and men are come to 
 u the place whereunto they were fummoned, they mall 
 <c abide there in the King's fervice for fifteen days at their 
 " own proper coils and charges ; and if the King (hall 
 " have further need of their fervice after the fifteen days 
 <£ aforefaid, or will have them flay there any longer, thofe 
 " mips, with the men while they remain there, fhall be in 
 * the King's fervice, at the King's cofts and charges, fo long 
 ci as the King pleafes. The mafter (of each fhip) fhall have 
 ££ fix-pence a day, and the conftable fix-pence a day, and 
 " every one of the reft three-pence a day." 
 
 Philpot, in p. 10, of his Villare Cantianum, recites their 
 privileges : all of them are in the terms of the Saxon law, 
 fuch as Sac, soc, infangtheof, &c. &c. He alfo mentions 
 their jurifdiction in Yarmouth, in Norfolk, where they had 
 Den and Strond. 
 
 Here the Barons fent their bailiffs, where they were re- 
 ceived in great form, with the banner of the Cinque Ports 
 difplayed. Their bulinefs was to fee juftice done to Ports- 
 men who fiftied on the Saxon fhore, which fhews the origin 
 
 to 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 201 
 
 to have been from Garianonum, one of the nine ports un- 
 der the Comes Littoris Saxonici ; this privilege occafioned 
 bloody frays between the Portsmen and thofe of Yarmouth 
 efpecially, when numbers of lives were loft and mips burnt ; 
 but the advantage was generally on the fide of the Portsmen. 
 
 We are not acquainted with the time of the original Charters, 
 charter. We find by the great one, granted in 1 2 7 8 by Ed- 
 ward I. in confideration of the great fervices they did him by 
 fea, references to their privileges and pofieflions under Ed- 
 ward the Confeflbr, William I. 8# II. Henry I. Richard and 
 John, and He?iry III. granted by virtue of their charters. 
 Dover, in the reign of the ConfelTor, was to find twenty numbers of 
 mips : the whole which they were to find by the charter T ^ SENT B ^ 
 of Edward I. was fifty-one, fitted out in the manner ex- 
 preffed in the preceding extract. Pofiibly the number was 
 arbitrary ; for the following was the proportion when Ed- 
 ward made his demand in the year 1297, and the total is 
 found to amount to only fifty-one ; and in the fame man- 
 date he even infills on their fending all their other (hipping. 
 
 Hastings was to find 2 1 (hips. 
 
 Romney - 5 
 
 Hythe - - 5 
 
 Dover - 10 
 
 Sandwich - 10 
 
 d d We 
 
202 
 
 FROM LONDON TO DOVER 
 
 We find likewife a change in the proportion. Thus when 
 Edward HI. called forth all their fervices preparatory to the 
 liege of Calais in 1347, 
 
 Sandwich was to fend 22 
 
 Dover - - 16 
 
 Hythe - 5 
 
 Hastings - 5 
 
 Romncy - 4 
 when IVinchelsea, which was a younger port than Hast- 
 ingSy fent 22, and Rye the fame year fent nine. This feems 
 to arife from the increafe or decline of the ports, or their 
 members : they were to guard the coafts by the tenure of 
 their lands, and by that fervice were exempted from all 
 taxes. They were fo powerful as frequently to do great 
 fervice to the realm by their own proper armaments. 
 
 Warden of William the Conqueror appointed over all the Cinque 
 PoK T ^ INQi7E Ports 2l Warden, poffibly in imitation of the Comes Littoris 
 Saxonici in the later times of the Roman Empire. The 
 Comes had under his care the following ports : 
 
 Otkona, Ithancester, z. city in Denzy Hundred, in Essex, 
 long fince fwallowed by the fea. 
 Dubris, Dover. 
 
 Portus LemanniiS) Lime> near Hythe. 
 Brannodwunn, near Walsingham, in Norfolk. 
 
 Garian- 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 203 
 
 Garianonum, Borough Castle, near Yarmouth. 
 Regulbium, Re culver. 
 Rutupice, Richborough. 
 Anderida, Pevensey. 
 
 Portus Adurnus, Portchester, near Portsmouth. 
 
 Each of thefe nine ports had a Propositus, with a band of 
 foldiers, over which he prellded, under the general com- 
 mand of the Comes ; and thefe again appear to have been 
 renewed in the Saxon times, under the title of the Barons 
 of the Cinque Ports. 
 
 The fir ft Warden was John Fie?mes, who was likewife 
 Governor of Dover Castle : the Warden was in old times 
 fworn into his office at Shipway, near Hythe ; but, fince the 
 decline of that place, the ceremony is performed at Dover. 
 The office is ftill kept up, and is of great value, intereft and 
 dignity. 
 
 Under the Warden were the Barons of the Cinque Ports, Barons. 
 men of refpe&able rank in the feveral towns, and to them 
 the King's writs were directed for afTembling the naval 
 force. In 1342 the Cinque Ports had flrft the privilege of 
 fending each two Members to Parliament, when they ftill 
 retained the name of the Barons of the Cinque Ports. — 
 
 d d 2 Thefe 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 Thefe had, am^ng otl er privileges, that of holding the four 
 ftaves of the Royal canopy at the Coronation, and after- 
 wards to dine at the uppermoft table, in the great hall, on 
 the King's right hand. Each port had its infignia ; thofe 
 of Dover were a highwayman on horfeback, robbing a man 
 on foot. 
 
 Dover is governed by a Mayor, twelve Jurats and thirty- 
 feven Common Council, and the Members aie chofen by 
 three hundred and ninety-feven of the inhabitants paying 
 fcot and lot. 
 
 I mail conclude this journey with mention of the cliff 
 immortalized by Shakespeare in his tragedy of King Lear, 
 It is a vaft precipice of chalk, impending over the fea ; a great 
 lapfe has robbed it of part of its height ; but ftdl there is 
 enough left to terrify thofe who have curiofity to peep over 
 the brink. Doctor Johnson, amidft a wafte of notes on this 
 celebrated Author, obferves, that the overwhelming idea is 
 diiUpated and enfeebled by the minutice of the defcription ; 
 the choughs, the crows, the famphire-man, and the fifhers. 
 With all refpect to fo exalted a name, had Shakespeare di- 
 vefted it of thefe images, it would not have been any defcrip- 
 tion whatfoever ; butthe reader would have been as divefted of 
 ideas as poor Gloucester ', had Edgar permitted the good old 
 3 man 
 
FROM LONDON TO DOVER. 
 
 man to have taken his defperate leap. But I can ftill fym- 
 pathife with the terror which muft affect every reader at the 
 extraordinary imagery, the fine creation of our matchlefs 
 Poet: 
 
 How fearful 
 And dizzy 'tis to cafl one's eye folow ! 
 The crows and choughs, that wing the midway air, 
 Shew fcarce fo grofs as beetles : half way down 
 Hangs one that gathers famphire ; dreadful trade ! 
 Methinks he feems no bigger than his head : 
 The fifhermen, that walk upon the beach, 
 Appear like mice ; and yon tall anchoring bark 
 DiminiuYd to a cock ; her cock a buoy 
 Almoft too fmall for fight. The murm'ring furge, 
 That on th' unnumber'd idle pebbles chafes, 
 Cannot be heard fo high — I'll look no more, 
 Left my brain turn, and the deficient fight 
 Topple down headlong. 
 
 END OF THE FIRST VOLUME. 
 
 PRINTED, AT THE ORIENTAL PRESS, BY WILSON & CO. 
 wjld-court, Lincoln's inn fields, London. 
 
INDEX TO VOLUME I. 
 
 A 
 
 Adelphi, The, page 2 
 Anne of Denmark, 17 
 Ainsworth, Robert, 25 
 Ardern of Feverfbam, ,9-3 
 Aerial Excurfion of Jeffries and 
 
 Blanchard, 188 
 Afli, Village of, 141. 
 
 B 
 
 Bridge, Weftminfter, 2 
 
 ■ Blackfriars, 2 
 
 London, 4 
 
 Blackwall, G, 24 
 Boieyn, Ann, 15 
 Barking, 37 
 Belvidere, 39 
 Bats, 47 
 
 Brown, Edward, M. D. 57 
 Battle between the Danes and Sax- 
 ons, 108 
 Broadltairs, 112 
 
 Chapel, 114 
 
 Becket's Shrine, 151 
 Birds, 177 
 
 Boys, Mr. of Sandwich, 130 
 Vol, II. 
 
 C 
 
 Cuftom-houfe, page 4 
 Cowley, A. 9 
 
 Chevreufe, DuchelTe de, 13 
 Charles II. 17 
 Charlton, 35 
 Chefnut-trees, 41 
 Crayford, 45 
 Cherries, 5 1 
 Chalk-pits, 53 
 Canvey Ifle, 62 
 Chatham, 74 
 
 , Cheft at, 74 
 
 C opperas-ftone, 78 
 Creekmouth, 91 
 Canterbury, 144 
 Roman Antiquities 
 
 there, 144 
 Roman Church there, 
 
 147 
 
 Cathedral, 148 
 
 Chequer, Sign of, 153 
 
 ■ Deanery, 156 
 
 Cloifters, 157 
 
 Baptiftry, 157 
 
 . — St. Auguftin's Mona- 
 
 ftery, 159 
 e £ Canter- 
 
210 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Canterbury, St. Pancras Chapel, 161 
 
 Caftle, 164 
 
 Cinque Ports, 199- 
 
 D 
 
 Dogs, I fie of, 6 
 Deptford, 7 
 
 Derwentwater, Eftates of the Earl 
 
 of, 18 
 Dagenham, 37 
 Dartford, 46 
 
 Creek, 45 
 
 Nunnery, 47 
 
 . a Bird fo named, 52 
 
 Dutch Fleet in the River Med way, 68 
 Davenham, Poor Nuns, of, 93 
 Dent de Lion, 105 
 Dungel-hill, 146 
 Deal, 166 
 
 Plants there, 176 
 
 ■ Boats, 1 7 1 
 
 Downs, The, 167, 171 
 
 ■ , Sea Fight there, 174 
 
 Dover Caftle, 178 
 
 Pharos, 1 80 
 
 Chapel, 182 
 
 . Wells, 185 
 
 . Town of, 189 
 
 . Priory, 192 
 
 ■ Maison Dieu, 193 
 
 Pier, 197 
 
 ■ Shakespeare's Cliff, 204. 
 
 E 
 
 Evelyn, Mr. 10 
 
 Elizabeth, Queen, 16 
 
 E. India Company's Alms-lioufes, 26 
 
 Eaft India Company's Shipping, 27 
 Warehoufes, 
 
 28 
 
 Erith, 40 
 
 Ebbs Fleet, 116 
 
 Erpingham, SiV Thomas, 181. 
 
 F 
 
 Franklin, Benjamin, 43 
 Flints, 53 
 Foffils, 54, 85 
 
 at Shepey, 77, 80 
 
 Feverfham, 91 
 
 Monaftery, 92 
 
 , James II. feized there, 94 
 
 , Entertainments at, 95 
 
 Ford, 103 
 
 Foreland, North, 111 
 
 Lighthoufe, 110- 
 
 Sea Fight off, 1 1 1 
 
 Fruits, &c. 88 
 Fordwich, 143 
 , its Trouts, 143. 
 
 G 
 
 Gage, Thomas Lord, 19 
 Greenland-dock, 6 
 Greenwich, 12 
 
 a Royal refidence, 14 
 
 Hofpital, 17 
 
 . Park, 19 
 
 Church, 20 
 
 Grey Friars, 20 
 Greenhithe, 59 
 Gravefend, 57 
 Grean, Ifle of, 62 
 Gillingham, 67 
 
 GenTinc. 
 
INDEX. 
 
 211 
 
 Geftling, The, 165 
 Godwin Sands, 170. 
 
 H 
 
 Henry VI. 15 
 Henrietta Maria, 17 
 Hops, 50 
 Hope, The, 62 
 Hawkins, Sir John, 74 
 Harty Ferry, 91 
 Heine, 102 
 
 Harbledon Hofpital, 153 
 
 Henry II. his pilgrimage to Becket's 
 
 Tomb, 155 
 Hackington, 144. 
 
 I 
 
 John's, King, Houfe, Deptford, 11 
 Iceland Filhery, 113. 
 
 K 
 
 Kingfgate, 109 
 
 — , Lord Hollands Villa 
 
 there, 109 
 
 L 
 
 Limehoufe, 5 
 Lea River, £8 
 Lefnes Abbey, 40 
 Long Reach, 52 
 Laurence, St. 1 14. 
 
 M 
 
 Monument, The, 3 
 Marflies of Effex, 38 
 
 Medway, The, 66 
 
 Madder, 96\ 
 
 Margate, 106 
 
 Margaret, St. at Cliff, \j6 
 
 Mote, the Seat of Earl Cowper, 143. 
 
 N 
 
 Norfolk Hofpital, 21 
 Northampton, Henry Earl of, 21 
 
 his Tomb, 22 
 
 Nehelennia, Goddefs of Chalk- work- 
 ers, 55 
 Northfleet, 57 
 Nore, The, 63. 
 
 O 
 
 Olaves, St. 5 
 Oysters, 97- 
 
 P 
 
 Paul's, St. Cathedral, 3 
 Poplar, 5, 24 
 
 Pelican, The, Sir F. Drake's Ship, 8 
 Peter, Czar of Ruffia, 9 
 Packington, Sir John, 13 
 Perry's Dock, 26 
 Purfleet, 42 
 Plants, 49 
 Plot, Dr. 94 
 Petrified Wood, 87. 
 
 Q 
 
 Queenborough Caftle, 64 
 
 e e 2 Rother- 
 
212 
 
 INDEX, 
 
 K 
 
 Rotherhithe, 5 
 Rochefter, 71 
 
 . Cathedral, 72 
 
 Bridge, 73 
 
 Reculver, 98 
 
 Monaftery, 101 
 
 Ramfgate, 114 
 
 . Pier, 114 
 
 Rock, St. Mildred's, 1X6 
 Richborough Caltle, 119, 120. 
 
 S 
 
 Somerfet Place, 2 
 Sayes Court, 9 
 Sprats, 36 
 
 Stone, Village of, 55 
 Shepey, Ifle of, 63, 75 
 
 ■ Church, 76 
 
 Sheernefs, 63 
 
 1— , its Well, 65 
 
 Swale, Weft, 66 
 
 Stan gate Creek, 66 
 
 Sane, 103 
 
 Stonor Cut, 118 
 
 Studfal Caftle, 146 
 
 Sandown Caftle, 165 
 
 Storm, Great, in 1703, I69 
 
 Selenites, 82 
 
 Starred Waxen Vein, 83 
 
 Sandwich, 124 
 
 . , the Refidence of Edward 
 
 the Confeffor, 126 
 
 . — , St. Thomas's Hofpital, 
 
 132 
 
 i , St. John's Hofpital, 133 
 
 , St. Bartholomew's Ho- 
 fpital, 134 
 
 Sandwich, the Harbinge, 133 
 
 , Grammar School, 134 
 
 , endowed by Roger Man- 
 wood, 134 
 
 , Churches, 135 
 
 , Fisheries, 136 
 
 , Sea Birds, 138. 
 
 T 
 
 Temple Stairs, I 
 
 Garden, 2 
 
 Thames River, 2 
 Tower, The, 4 
 Trinity Houfe, 10 
 Thornhill, Sir James, 17 
 Tyler, Wat, 48 
 Tilbury Fort, 59 
 
 , Camp there, 59 
 
 Thanet, Ifle of, 104. 
 
 U 
 
 Upnor Caftle, 67. 
 
 W 
 
 Weftminfter Hall, 2 
 
 Abbey, 2 
 
 William III. 17 
 White-bait, 23 
 Woolwich, 31 
 
 . Warren, 33 
 
 Woad, 49 
 
 WyppeeTs-fleet, Battle off, 117 
 Walmer Caftle, 176 
 Wingham, 141. 
 
 INDEX 
 
INDEX TO VOLUME II. 
 
 A 
 
 As ii burn ham, page 44 
 Anderida, 52 
 Arundel, 90 
 
 Caftle, 90, 97 
 
 ■ Portraits there, 99 
 
 . Church, 91, 96 
 
 • Thomas Fitzalan, Earl of, 
 
 91 
 
 Thomas, fifth Earl of, his 
 
 Tomb, 92 
 
 Beatrix, Countefs of, 92 
 
 . John, Earl of, 93 
 
 . Thomas, ninth Earl of, 
 
 and his Countefs, 93 
 . ■William, Earl of, and his 
 
 Countefs, 94 
 
 Alianore, Countefs of, 94 
 
 . Henry, laft Earl of, 9-5 
 
 Phiiip Howard, Earl of, 96 
 
 Thomas_ Howard, Earl of, 
 
 96 
 
 Atkinson, Mary, Epitaph on, 110 
 Appuldercombe lumiae, I69 
 ancient Houfe, 170 
 
 Appuldercombe modern Houfe, 171 
 
 Pictures there, 172 
 
 Statues, &c. there, 179 
 
 • Priory, 183 
 
 Alum Bay, 195. 
 
 B 
 
 Birds, aquatic, 17 
 Bromham Hall, 32 
 Beauport, 36 
 Battle Abbey, 37 
 
 Hall, 42 
 
 ■ Gates, 42 
 
 Roll, 43 
 
 curious Cheft, 44 
 
 Brown, Sir Anthony, 41 
 Beachy Head, 54 
 
 Battle off, 54, 56 
 
 Bowling Gap, 57 
 Bhhop Stone, 64 
 Erightheimftone, 66 
 
 the Steyne, 67 
 
 Affembly Rooms, 6S 
 
 Pavilion, 68 
 
 , piiherics, 70 
 
 Bright- 
 
214 
 
 INDEX. 
 
 Brighthelmftonej Old Town, 76 
 
 — - Church, 79 
 
 ■ Pharos, 8 1 
 
 Broadwater, 88 
 Bognor Rocks, 103 
 Ball, Mr. Epitaph on, 109 
 Bofeham, 116 
 Bere, Foreft of, 121 
 Buckingham, George Duke of, ms 
 
 death, 131 
 Brading Haven, 149 
 
 Church, 150 
 
 Ban church, 183 
 
 Boniface, St. his Cottage, 184 
 
 Brixton, lyO 
 
 Brook, 190 
 
 ■ Tumuli there, 19 1. 
 
 C 
 
 Crowhurft, 36 
 Corallines, 76 
 
 Charles II. his efcape from Brigh- 
 ton, 77, 79 
 Cifbury Hill, 88 
 Chillingworth, William, 102 
 Cbichelter, 105 
 
 ■ Cathedral, 106 
 
 • Monuments there, 108 
 
 Bilhops Palace, 110 
 
 Crofs, 1 12 
 
 Cu tin ill, 118 
 Charles I. 120, 165 
 Culver Clilf, 151 
 Carilbrook, !60 
 
 ■ Church, 160 
 
 Tomb of William Keel- 
 ing, 16 1 
 ■ Priory, 162 
 
 Carilbrook Caftle, 162 
 
 ——Wells, 163 
 
 — Chapel of St. Nicholas, 
 
 163 
 
 Chale Bay, 1 85 
 Catherine's, St. Tower, 186 
 
 Chapel, 187 
 
 • Point, 188 
 
 Colwal Bay, 195. 
 
 D 
 
 Dunchurch Wall, 14 
 Dungenefs, 16 
 
 Drayton, M. his Defcription of the 
 
 Country near Romney, 18 
 Dacre, Thomas Lord, 45. 
 
 E 
 
 Elizabeth, Queen, 50 
 Eaft Dean, 58 
 Eastbourne, 51 
 Emfworth, 118 
 Edward VI. 129 
 
 Elizabeth, Princess, her Tomb, 167 
 Epitaph on Richard Worfley, 169. 
 
 F 
 
 Folkftone, 2 
 Farleiffh Head, 32 
 
 - Meeting of the Tides 
 
 there, 32 
 Frifton, 59 
 Fifh, various, 74 
 Filhbourn, 115 
 Frelli water Bay, 191 
 Cliffs, 192 
 
 Frefli- 
 
INDEX. 
 
 215 
 
 Frefliwater, Birds there, J 93 
 Caves, 193. 
 
 G 
 
 Gafcoigne, Margery, Story of, 22 
 
 Goodwood, 112 
 
 Godwin, Earl, 1 16 
 
 George I. 121 
 
 Gofport, 146 
 
 Gatcomb, 167 
 
 Godshill, 167 
 
 Church, 168 
 
 Monuments, 168 
 
 Gloucefter, Henry Duke of, 166, 
 
 H 
 
 Harvey, William, M. I>. 5 
 Hythe, 7 
 
 Old, 13 
 
 Henry VIII. 24, 139 
 Haltings, 32 
 
 ■ Caftle, 33 
 
 Battle of, 37 
 
 Harold, 37, 117 
 Hurftmonceaux Caftle, 45 
 Hamilton, W. G. 67 
 Herrings, 72 
 Highdown Hill, 89 
 Havant, 118 
 
 Henry VI. his marriage, 119 
 Haling Ifle, 123 
 Henry I. 124 
 
 VII. 139 
 
 Haflar Hofpital, 146 
 
 Heliers, St. 149 
 
 Hoi fey, Sir Edward, 158 
 
 Iklelham, 31 
 
 John the Painter, 133 
 
 Induftry, Houfe of, 156. 
 
 K 
 
 Kempenfelt, Rear Admiral, 155. 
 
 ■ 
 
 L 
 
 Lyme Caftle, 1 1 
 
 Leicefter, Simon de Montfort, Earl 
 
 of, 30 
 Lewes, 65 
 
 Leicefter, Robert, Earl of, 159 
 Luihington, Monument of, 51 
 Laurence, St. 184. 
 
 M 
 
 Murray, Gen. James, 36 
 Mackarel, 71 
 Mullets, 91 
 
 Myddleton, Sir Hugh, 149 
 Monkton Fort, 154 
 Mottifton, 190. 
 
 N 
 
 Newhaven, 65 
 Northwood Foreft, 156 
 Newport, 157 
 
 Church, 158 
 
 Nenrield, 45 
 Niton, 185 
 Northcourt, 189 
 
 Needles, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 Needles, The, 194 
 Newton Bay, 202. 
 
 O 
 
 Rays, various kinds of, 73 
 Ride, US 
 
 Royal George, Account of the Lofs 
 of, 155. 
 
 Offington, 89. 
 
 Pley clone, 21 
 Pole, Cardinal, 24 
 Pilchards, 72 
 Pevenfey, 47 
 
 .-William I. lands there, 
 
 Caftle, 48 
 
 Prefton Hall, 84 
 Portflade, 85 
 Portfdown, 118 
 Portfmouth, 124 
 
 Ramparts, 131 
 
 . . Governor's Houfe, 
 
 Church, 132 
 
 . Docks, 132 
 
 . Ships there, 1 35 
 
 . Battle off, 141 
 
 Portchefter, 143 . 
 
 Caftle, 144 
 
 Church, 145 
 
 Parkhurft For eft, 156. 
 
 Roman Road, 12 
 Romney Marfli, 13 
 Romney, New, 17 
 
 Old, 19 
 
 Rye, 21 
 
 ■ Caftle, 22 
 
 Rotting Dean, 66 
 
 48 
 
 131 
 
 Sandgate Fort, 7 
 Saltwood Caftle, 10 
 Statfall Caftle, 11 
 Shipway, 1 2 
 Seven Cliffs, 57 
 Seaford, 59 
 
 Shark, a new fpecies of, CO 
 Soles, 73 
 Sompting, 88 
 
 Salmon, Thomas, and Agnes his wife, 
 
 Tomb of, 92 
 Spylnenis, Robert, his Tomb, 96 
 Slindon, 103 
 Selfey Me, 104 
 Southwick Houfe, 119 
 Sandown Fort and Bay, 152 
 Southbourne, 51 
 Southdown, 53 
 Southwick, 85 
 Shoreham, New, 85 
 
 Church, 86 
 
 Old, 87 
 
 Steephill Cottage, 1 84 
 Shorwell, 190 
 Sharpnofe Sconce, 192 
 Solent Sea, 196. 
 
 Tatterfall, Nicholas, his Tomb, 79 
 
 Thorney Me, 123 
 
 Toland Bay, 195 
 
 Tides of the Me of Wight, 197 
 
 Vermes, 
 
INDEX. 
 
 217 
 
 V 
 
 Vermes, 76. 
 
 W 
 
 Winchelfea, 25 
 
 Cattle, 24 
 
 . Church, 26 
 
 . Religious Houfes there, 
 
 28 
 
 Gates, 28 
 
 William the Conqueror, 37 
 Wheatears, 60 
 Weftham, 50 
 Wells, 61 
 
 Wales, George Prince of, 68 
 Warblington, 118, 130 
 Wight, Me of, 147 
 
 ■ ■Appearance of its Coaft, 152 
 
 Produce of, 153 
 
 ■ Hiftory of, 202 
 
 • Lords ot; 204 
 
 Militia, 206 
 
 Wardens, 206 
 
 Warden Ledge, 195. 
 
 Y 
 
 Ypre, William de, Earl of Kent, 22 
 Yarmouth, 200. 
 
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