I / 
 
 MOLONt'S 
 
M O L O N Y ' S 
 
 MASTERPIECE ON 
 
 WOOL, SILK AND COTTON 
 DYEING: 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 HIS BEST RECEIPTS, 
 WITHOUT THE LEAST RESERVE; 
 
 ACCORDINO 
 
 TO HIS PRACTICE IN 
 
 GREAT BRITAIN AND AMERICA. 
 
 BY 
 
 LOWELL; 
 PRINTED BY DEARBORN & BELLOWS, 
 
 CORNER OF CENTRAL AND MIDDLE STREETS. 
 
 1837. 
 
Entered according to an Act of Congress, in the year 1837, 
 
 BY CORNELIUS MOLONY, 
 in the Clerk's Office of the District Court of Massachuietti. 
 
PREFACE 
 
 The Author of tho following pages, wrote the work entitled 
 the "Practical Dyer," in 1833, also the "Modern Wool Dyer." 
 in 1834. Hia former works being so saiisfactory to persons en- 
 gaged in his profession and also to manufacturers, that he was so- 
 licited by a number of his friends, to write this work, in which he 
 pledges himself to mention the result of his best experienee, and 
 state his improvements, and not curtail anything on the subject 
 of Dyeing that he considers useful to the manufacturing interests 
 of the country. 
 
RECOMMENDATIONS. 
 
 Mr. Cornelius Molony has been in my employment for the pur- 
 pose of communicating information in the Art of Dyeing, and has 
 given good satisfaction. I think him worthy of the patronage of 
 those who desire an acquaintance with those processes of the 
 Art which have not obtained a general circulation among native 
 artists in the United States, His knowledge in woad dyeing 1 
 presume is also thorough, he having conducted a woad vat for me 
 about two months. WILLIAM BARRETT. 
 
 Maiden, February 22, 1830. 
 
 This is to certify, that Mr. Cornelius Molony has been in our 
 employ as a Practical Dyer, and has evinced himself to be master 
 of his profession. 
 
 MELZAR WATERMAN & CO. 
 
 Roxbury, July 1, 1831. 
 
 Mr. Cornelius Molony has been in my employment, for the par- 
 pose of communicating information in the art of Dyeing. I wai 
 much pleased with him while in my employ. 1 do highly re- 
 commend his knowledge in producing colours on Silk, Cotton and 
 Woolen Goods, on the principle as practiced in some the largest 
 establishments in Great Britain and America. He has been thou" 
 sands of dollars worth of benefit to the United States, in comrau^ 
 nicating information on the art of Dyeing. 
 
 DAVID CROWLY. 
 Agent of Lynn Dyeing and Printing Establishment. 
 
 Lynn, September 29, 1834. 
 
 Mr. Cornelius Molony has been employed in the dye house of 
 the Lowell Carpet Factory, something like two years. He is a 
 first rate workman, an honest and faithful man; and has, by the 
 publication of two valuable works on Dyeing, in my opinion, 
 done essential service to the manufacturing interests of the coun- 
 try. ALEXANDER WRIGHT. 
 Superintendent of Lowell Manufacturing Carpet Co. 
 
 Lowell, June 6. 1834. 
 
This 19 to certify, that f have practised the receipts of Mr. Mo- 
 iony'g book the last two years, entitled "The Practical Dyer," 
 1 have also proved his receipts at Mr. Aaron Hale's, of Troy. I 
 feel positive it is the best publication on the subject of Dyeing, 
 ever before offered to the public. 
 
 LUCIUS B^NUTING. 
 
 Troy, Junt 9, 1635. 
 
 This is to certify that I have in possession a book of Mr. Mo- 
 
 lony's entitled " The Practical Dyer." 1 feel satisfied that it is 
 
 the best work on the subject of Dyeing, extant. 
 
 AARON HALE. 
 Troy, June 10. 1835. 
 
M O L O N Y 
 
 ON DYEING, 
 
 Method of Scouring Fine WooJ^ as practised in the 
 JVorth and West of England, 
 A kettle containing from 40 to 50 gallons is a 
 very convenient size ; though some prefer a larger 
 vessel to do the business more expeditiously. I do 
 not approve of putting any more than from 10 to 
 14 lbs. at most, of wool in a kettle at once ; as it 
 could be turned round brisker, and is consequently 
 not so much matted or settled as by having in a 
 greater quantity ; and I likewise presume it can be 
 cleansed better in the scouring. Heat the water in 
 the kettle to 130 degrees Fahrenheit's Thermome- 
 ter. Make up the kettle with the proportion of one 
 pail of stale urine to two pails soft water at the 
 above heat. Increase when the urine and water 
 are in the kettle, and both mixed for the scouring — 
 lather to be 130 deg. of heat. Then put in the 
 wool. Stir it around with a pole, so as not to re- 
 verse it, as it would mat it, and consequently put it 
 in a bad condition. If the liquor, as dyers term it, 
 
8 Molony on Dyeing, 
 
 is in good condition, it will shew a frothy substance, 
 in the similitude of a soap lather, by agitating it 
 with a stick about three minutes, which is as mucli 
 agitation as I think necessary. 
 
 The rinsing box ought to be situated within 3 or 4 
 feet of the scouring vessel. It is also necessary 
 that the water come in through the bottom, and run 
 out through both sides and ends of the rinsing box. 
 The water should be forcible enough to agitate the 
 wool sufficiently to cleanse it, without a man turn- 
 ing it with a stick. A board should be placed on 
 the kettle occasionally, to put a small basket or box 
 with holes in the bottom, to allow the scouring liquor 
 to drain in the kettle. When the wool is taken out 
 of the scouring kettle into the basket, do not allow 
 it to drain until it is cold, as it would be more dif- 
 ficult to cleanse the lather from it when put into 
 rinsing box. If the wool is not well scoured and 
 well cleansed from the scouring, if to be dyed blue, 
 the colour will be dull and fugitive, if dyed in a 
 woad vat when in the highest state of perfection. 
 In fact, all colours will have a similar effect ; there- 
 fore I think it very important to woolen manufac* 
 turers, to employ men who understand scouring both 
 fine and coarse wool, as it differs very materially. 
 When the scouring liquor gets low, make it up ac- 
 cording to the same proportions of stren*th and 
 heat. I think it advisable in this method of scour- 
 ing, to empty the kettle, when about 500 lbs. of 
 wool has been scoured in it ; though I have known 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 9 
 
 men to continue until they had scoured 2000 lbs. 
 vvithqut making a new liquor, (as it is termed in 
 Dyer's language) and succeed very well. It is very 
 reasonable to suppose that it requires more rinsing 
 in the cold water, than it would if done otherwise- 
 
 Method of Scouring Coarse Wool. 
 Pursue the same method of handling in the kettle 
 and rinsing box, as before directed on fine wool, 
 with the difference of making the scouring lather 
 to 140 deg. of heat, instead of 130. Use one part 
 of urine, to three parts of water. If the scouring 
 lather is in good order, when stirred 3 or 4 minutes, 
 it will have a white lather on the surface, similar to 
 that of a soap lather. If that be the case, there is 
 not the smallest doubt of the wool being well scour- 
 ed. I advise, any person who scours coarse wool, 
 to empty the kettle when 500 lbs. have been scour- 
 ed, as it will be much easier rinsing it in the rin- 
 sing box. 
 
 On Dyeing Fine Cloth Blue Black. 
 
 The goods ought to be perfectly free from oil, 
 otherwise they will not be well penetrated with the 
 dye, and the colouring matter which would adhere 
 would be more fugitive. 
 
 First Process. — The cloth, if dry, should be boil- 
 ed one hour at least ; by that means it will receive 
 
10 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 the preparation more evenly, owing to its softening 
 even the warp ; consequently it will be better 
 grounded, than it would otherwise be. 
 
 If ihe above process were to be omitted, the cloth 
 ought to be well spread on the wynch ; and when 
 taken out of the kettle upon the wynch, it should 
 not be allowed to drain more than 3 minutes; then 
 struck oft' and listed out its full width, and listed 4 
 or 5 times to and fro, until it be completely cold ; 
 otherwise wrinkles would appear, which could not 
 be got out in the tenters, nor even the best brush- 
 ing mill I have ever seen, would not contract. 
 
 For 50 lbs of cloth, dissolve 5 lbs 8 oz. copperas, 
 2 lbs. 8 oz. sulphate of copper, and 2 lbs. red tartar. 
 Put it into a kettle, of convenient size, of clear wa- 
 ter at 150 degrees of heat, enter the cloth, get up a 
 brisk fire and commence boiling and wynching ; 
 continue boiling 90 minutes, run some cold water 
 into the kettle to stop its boiling, then wind up on 
 the wynch. 
 
 In all cases of cloth dyeing, do not allow it to re- 
 main longer than 3 or 4 minutes to drain, then cool 
 it well at its full width, and let it drain on the wood- 
 en horse for 6 or 8 hours at least. Prepare as much 
 cloth in one day as can be conveniently dyed the 
 next day ; but diminish the quantity of drugs 
 about one fifth, every different quantity of cloth ; 
 and observe to run oflf some of the liquor every 
 time a fresh quantity of goods is prepared, so as to 
 allow it to be cool enough to enter a fresh set. For 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 1 1 
 
 50 lbs. of cloth prepared as above, boil up about 6 
 lbs. (or perhaps 7 lbs. would be necessary,) of chip 
 Campeachy logwood. Continue boiling it one 
 hour ; then put 24 oz. of pearlash, (but observe, 
 cool the liquor previously,) then rake up the liquor ; 
 enter the cloth, turn it rapidly for 10 or 15 minutes, 
 get on a brisk fire, commence boiling, continue 
 boiling and turning the cloth until deep enough. 
 
 Method of Cleansing the above Cloth, is as follows : 
 For any black cloth, get some fuller's earth and 
 put it close to a fire or in a stove room, so as to 
 make it perfectly dry ; then put it into a large tub 
 and put some boiling water upon it to dissolve it ; 
 then make it a little thinner with water and sprink- 
 le the cloth with it — and a little of it with a little 
 dissolved soap ; put it in the fulling stocks and let 
 the hammers work on it for 15 or 20 minutes ; then 
 run the water upon it till it is perfectly clean and 
 done. 
 
 Method of Dyeing Jet Black, 50 lbs. Fine Cloth made 
 of Saxony or fine Spanish WooL 
 Take a convenient sized kettle at 170 degrees of 
 heat, dissolve 6 lbs. of sulphate of iron (copperas,) 
 and 3 lbs. sulphate of copper ; 2 lbs. red tartar 
 pulverised, put all in together, rake up well, enter 
 the cloths, turn briskly for 10 or 15 minutes ; get on 
 
12 Molony on Dyeing, 
 
 a strong fire, commence boiling and continue 
 vvynching for 90 minutes, cool the kettle, take out 
 the cloth, cool it and list it out straight. 
 
 If it be necessary to prepare any more goods in 
 this liquor, use about one fifth less drugs, as 8 or 
 10 times the above quantity might be prepared 
 without running off the mixture. Allow the cloth 
 to drain 8 or 10 hours. It need not be rinsed from 
 this preparation. Empty the kettle, boil up 9 lbs. 
 good logwood, and 2 lbs. Sicily sumach; enter the 
 goods, boil one hour, take out, and cleanse the cloth 
 with fuller's earth and soap in the fulling stocks. 
 
 To Dye Lac "Scarlet on Flannel or Milled Cloth. 
 An excellent tin liquor for 50 lbs. lac scarlet. Take 
 6 1-2 lbs. muriatic acid and 1 1-2 lbs. sulphuric 
 acid ; put them into a stone pot ; feed it slowly with 
 20 oz. of grain tin. It will be fit for use next day. 
 Have your flannel or cloth perfectly clean. It ought 
 to be dyed in a pewter or block tin kettle. Fill the 
 vessel nearly full ; pulverize 6 lbs. good Lac dye ; 
 put it in the kettle ; also, 2 lbs. cream of tartar, and 
 2 lbs red tartar pulverized. Allow the drugs to boil 
 15 minutes; then cool the liquor, and put in the tin 
 liquor and about 2 oz. tumerick. Enter the cloth, 
 and continue the process one hour, if flannel ; if ful- 
 led cloth, continue boiling about 90 minutes. Cool 
 the kettle, take out the goods, throw it into cold 
 water ; rinse very well in that. If the cloth gets 
 properly managed, it ought to be afterwards cleans- 
 
JSIolony on Dyeing. 13 
 
 ed with fuller's earth in a fulling mill, which would 
 impart much beauty to the cloth. Six or seven 
 times the above quantity, or six or seven times any 
 given quantity, may be dyed in the same kettle, by 
 diminishing the acids about one-sixth every kettle 
 full. For instance, if the kettle is large enough to 
 contain 150 lbs. of goods, 7 quantities may be done 
 in the same liquor, at the above proportions. 
 
 Method of Dyeing Black Wool. 100 Ihs. Wool 
 When the wool is well scoured, get on a conven- 
 ient sized kettle ; bring it to boil; put 20 lbs. ground 
 logwood and 3 lbs. sumach in a large cloth, or very 
 coarse bag; boil it 20 minutes ; enter the wool, ob- 
 serving to stop the boiling previously ; handle it 
 briskly with a very strong pole. Commence boiling ; 
 continue for 3 hours. Dissolve 7 lbs. copperas, and 
 cool the dye kettle very cool : if too full to admit 
 of much cold water, run off some of the liquor. — 
 Put in a little of the copperas ; turn the wool re- 
 markably well. After an interval, put in some more 
 of the dissolved copperas, and turn the wool. In 10 
 minutes after, put in the remainder of the copperas ; 
 commence boiling, and continue one hour. Draw, 
 or take out the fire, allowing the wool to remain in 
 the kettle (if it should be in the evening,) till next 
 morning. Run off the kettle, and rinse the colour 
 well in cold water, and dry in the atmosphere if the 
 weather will permit. Much sulphate of iron has a 
 
 2 
 
14 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 tendency to enfeeble the staple of the wool, and if 
 dyed in a very warm dye-house, I think it makes it 
 still more tender. In consequence of the same, I 
 advise all dyers to use as little copperas on any de- 
 scription of wool or woollen goods, as will just an- 
 swer their purpose. I presume all dyers of skill are 
 as well aware of the injury as I am. 
 
 Another method of Scouring Wool. 
 Boil up 60 lbs. of good American potash in a con- 
 venient sized kettle ; allow it to cool. Then take 2 
 qts. olive oil, 12 qts. sulphuric acid ; stir it well to- 
 gether. Then put in 4 or 5 qts. of warm water, 
 slowly. Mix it well together ; then put slowly into 
 it the dissolved potash ; likewise put in about 7 lbs. 
 muriate of soda, table salt, and stir well for 10 or 15 
 minutes. Next day it will be fit for use. 
 
 Method of Scouring on the above principle^ 
 A kettle containing from 40 to 50 gals, is a very 
 convenient size. Heat to 140 deg. ; put in about a 
 qt. of soft soap, and about a pint of the above oil 
 soap ; put in about 12 or 14 lbs. wool ; stir it with a 
 stick, so as not to reverse it, about 3 minutes ; put it 
 into a small basket to drain for a few minutes ; then 
 put it in the rinsing box, and rinse it remarkably 
 well. It is not necessary to use much soap on this 
 principle. You may scour 1000 lbs. of wool with 
 
Molony on Dyeing, 15 
 
 safety, without emptying the scouring kettle. If the 
 surface of the scouring lather is frothy, like a soap 
 lather, it may be depended upon to answer the pur- 
 pose intended. I have scoured considerable quan- 
 tities of American and other wool on this principle, 
 with as much success as on any other method I have 
 ever seen adopted. The urool, when carefully man- 
 aged according to these directions, will be quite 
 light and in good condition. Some manufacturers, 
 perhaps, might be prejudiced against this method of 
 cleansing wool, owing to the caustic nature of the 
 potash ; its burning nature is greatly counteracted 
 by the sulphuric acid, and the opposition of the olive 
 oil and muriate of soda. The combination and op- 
 position of these mixtures almost neutralizes the 
 fixed alkali. Certain it is, they destroy its burning 
 nature, so that it does make the staple of the wool 
 tender, which is bordering on being rotten. Potash 
 without any opposition, is injurious to wool, if it is 
 not used very sparingly. 
 
 Situation of a Blue Dye- House, 
 It should be either handsomely flagged, or with a 
 boarded floor. The vats should be of a uniform 
 height, and in one direct line at each side of the dye- 
 house. It is very necessary to have good windows, 
 to afford as much light as possible, as much depends 
 on having a clear view of the liquor when the indigo 
 is coming to a state of fermentation ; and in fact, it 
 
16 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 is necessary at all times. The vats should be from 
 32 to 34 inches higher than the floor, which is a ve- 
 ry convenient height for wool dyeing. If the vats 
 are 7 feet deep, the fire should not be placed within 
 3 1-2 feet of the bottom, I think it most convenient 
 to have the vats so situated as to have the fire to 
 each, out of doors, as it would save much room in the 
 dye-house, and promote cleanliness. 
 
 If the building be large enough, there should be 
 at least 3 feet distance between each vessel, to af- 
 ford room for the men to perform their work conve- 
 niently. Black and blue may be dyed with safety 
 in the same room ; but blues and colours ought not 
 to be done in the same apartment ; more especially 
 light shades, cannot be managed with safety, as the 
 wool will be constantly liable to receive spots. 
 
 Situation of the Colour Dye-House. 
 The building should be about ten yards in height, 
 with a good flagged floor. If the building exceed 
 60 feet in length, and four or five kettles are plac- 
 ed in it, there should be one ventillator in the 
 centre, and one at each end, that as much steam as 
 possible may pass off, for the convenience of the 
 workmen and the benefit of their health. A wool 
 kettle should be superior in diameter to its depth, 
 and as wide in the bottom as in the upper pari, with 
 a bulge or swell about halfway between the top and 
 bottom. A vessel containing about 250 gallons, is 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 17 
 
 a convenient size for dyin§ 100 lbs. of wool, either 
 coarse or fine. It should have a strainer, and a pipe 
 attached to one side of the bottom, to let off the dye- 
 stuff, when spent or useless, and a shore to take it off. 
 There should be 3 feet space between each kettle, 
 if the building will admit of it. The vessels should 
 have about 12 inches of flange, with a little descent 
 inwards. It is also necessary to bear the pole on to 
 turn the wool when colouring. There should be 3 
 windows in each side of the dye-house, if the kettles 
 are placed on both sides, and should be parallel, 
 and be all of one height from the floor. 
 
 On Woad Blue Dyeing. 
 A vat 7 1-2 ft. deep, and 6 1-2 ft. diameter, was 
 about the common size of vats when I left England. 
 Fill the vessel within 16 inches of the top ; heat it to 
 I 50 deg. Fahrenheit. Take 700 lbs. good couched 
 Woad ; put it into three or four large tubs, and pour 
 on some hot water to soften it. Then chop it quite 
 fine with a spade, and divide 10 lbs. of humbro, or 
 good common madder, and two pecks of bran, in the 
 tubs containing the Woad. I think it ncessary to 
 put three or four pails of stale urine into a new vat, 
 to excite a bolder fermentation, and also a quicker 
 one ; but I do not approve of the urine after the first 
 heating. Have 30 lbs. good Bengal indigo well 
 ground in water. Put all these drugs into the vat, 
 and rake up well ; cover the vat closely, and look at 
 
 2* 
 
18 JMolony on Dyeing. 
 
 it in seven or eight hours ; agitate the liquor with a 
 stick, and if the indigo is coming to a state of fer- 
 mentation, it will hold a feeble bead on the surface. 
 Cover the vat again, and agitate in two hours after. 
 If the bead hold on pretty strongly, it is a demon- 
 stration that the indigo is coming to a state of so- 
 lution. If it be in a middling state of fermentation, 
 there will be a strong bead on the surface. Put in 
 a little white wool, and let it remain ten or fifteen 
 minutes ; then take it out and squeeze it. Put it to 
 cool. It ought to look green when first taken out, 
 and change to a blue in four or five minutes. If 
 that should be the case, rake up the vat well, and 
 put in three quarts of quick lime, newly slacked. — 
 Look at the vat in three hours after, and rake up 
 well. If the liquor looks much clearer, or of a light- 
 er green, it is a proof that it did not get the lime too 
 soon. If so, put in three qts. more. Rake again in 
 two hours, and, if the vat is any clearer, use four qts. 
 more lime. Rake again in tv/o hours, but do not 
 use any lime. If the liquor is any clearer in 2 hours 
 after the last raking, put in 8 qts. more lime. — 
 Rake again in two hours, without lime. Rake in 
 three hours after. If the vat come on well, it will 
 show a copper-like appearance on the surface. Use, 
 in that case, about 4 qls. of lime. 
 
 Next heat the vat to 150 deg. Fahrenheit, and put 
 in 2 lbs. madder, and 2 or 3 lbs. bran. Rake up 
 well and cover the vat, and allow it to settle 1 2 hrs. 
 If it assume a greenish yellow, put in about 100 lbs. 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 19 
 
 of wool, but put it in a dye-net previously. Handle 
 it so as lo reverse it in the vat. Turn it every five 
 minutes for one hour. Wring it out of the vat, and 
 shake it up well to cool. If the green continue 
 more than five minutes when exposed to the atmos- 
 pheric air, it is an indication of the want of more 
 lime. In that case, add 2 qts. lime ; rake up and 
 allow it to settle three hours. Then put in the dye- 
 net and wool. Turn it with a large dye-stick every 
 five minutes for one hour. Then wring out and 
 shake it up well. Rake up the vat completely from 
 the bottom, and allow it settle three hours. If the 
 colour is not deep enough, put in the dye-net and 
 wool, and handle it until full enough. Then take 
 out the wool and rinse it in the washing basket. — 
 Heat up the vat to 150 deg. as usual, and put in as 
 much indigo, well ground in water, as will be suf- 
 ficient for ttie next day's colouring. If the vat has 
 an over charge of alkali, put in half a pail of wheat 
 bran, and three or four pounds of good common 
 madder, to destroy some of the caustic of the lime, 
 and to excite fermentation. If the vat smell strong- 
 ly of lime, it is proof of having in it too much alkali. 
 If lime can be smelled at all, there is no lack of al- 
 kali ; but if short, the smell will not be perceived in 
 the least. A smell of sourness indicates a lack of 
 alkaU. If that be the case, put in about 2 qts. quick 
 lime, with the indigo and madder, at the abovemen- 
 tioned heat, (150 deg. which I approve as standard 
 heat.) When the indigo, madder and lime (ifne- 
 
20 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 cessary) are in the vat, rake up well and allow it to 
 settle 12 hours. Then if the vat looks clear, or of a 
 greenish yellow, put in the dye-net and the wool ; 
 turn it as usual. Wring it out in one hour, and 
 shake it up well to cool. Rake the vat, that the li- 
 quor may be thoroughly mixed ; allow it to settle 
 three hours; then put in the dye-net and wool; 
 handle it one hour, as usual. Wring the wool, and 
 shake it well to cool off the green ; rake the vat, and 
 allow it three hours to settle ; then put in the dye- 
 net and wool, and handle it one hour, or according 
 to the shade. 
 
 Some dyers keep the vat at such a strength that 
 the wool may be dyed deep blue by putting it only 
 tivice in the dye, which I do not disapprove, as it 
 expedites business. In that case, I would enter the 
 wool but twice each day. 
 
 Another method of knowing the condition of the 
 vats: — If onlyihe necessary quantity of lime be put 
 in, the wool will be bright and even; if it have an 
 exoess of lime, the green wool will change to blue 
 in about two minutes, when exposed to the atmos- 
 phere. In that case, it will be evenly coloured, and 
 will assume a gray appearance, even if the blue be 
 very deep or full. If any vat is too much in want of 
 lime, the blue dyed in it will be dull, and of a green- 
 ish appearance, even when deep enough in colour. — 
 I do not think it wise to dye more than three or four 
 tons of clean wool in any vat of the size above-men- 
 tioned. Then empty the contents, and proceed ac- 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 21 
 
 cording to the same method as before described. By 
 so doing, I think the work will be done to better ad- 
 vantage, and the vats will be more easily kept in good 
 working order. If worked more than 70 or SO day?, 
 the dyer ought to be possessed of very superior skill, 
 though I have seen good blues dyed in vats that 
 were worked from 6 to 9 months. If a vat is very 
 much overcharged with lime, I know of no better 
 way than to boil a bushel of wheat bran, and 7 or 8 
 lbs. good common madder, and 3 or 4 lbs. pearlash, 
 and strain off the clear liquor, and put it in tlie vat, 
 to counteract the surplus of lime. 
 
 Royal Adalaide. 100 Ihs, Wool 
 The vat for blueing this colour, should be in good 
 condition, but weak of indigo, and should not exceed 
 120 deg, of heat. The wool should be well shaken, 
 and not matted in the least, as it is very important to 
 have it dyed even in the first process. Put in the 
 dye-net, and then the wool, and turn it very atten- 
 tively with a dye-stick for fifteen or twenty minutes, 
 according to the strength of the liquor ; then wring 
 it, and shake it up well to cool off the green ; rake 
 up well, and allow it three hours to settle. Then 
 put in the net and the wool, and handle it till deep 
 enough, which should not exceed half the depth of 
 colour of deep blue wool. The vats should be of 
 such a strength as to admit the woors being dipped 
 twice ; then rinse particularly well in the washing 
 
^2 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 basket ; then take a kettle of convenient size, and 
 fill it with clean soft water; get up a brisk fire, and 
 make it boil. Put in about 8 lbs. barwood, and boil 
 it 30 minutes; then cool the liquor with water, rake 
 it up well, and put in the wool ; turn it briskly in the 
 kettle for ten minutes, get on a strong fire, and com- 
 mence boiling, and continue to boil ninety minutes, 
 observing to turn the wool every fifteen minutes. — 
 Take out the wool, and put into the kettle 2 lbs: 
 ground cochineal, 3 lbs. allum, about 2 lbs. cream of 
 tartar, and 4 oz. tartaric acid ; boil all together fif- 
 teen minutes ; then cool with a few pails of water, 
 rake up well, and put in the wool ; turn it for fifteen 
 minutes. Then get on a brisk fire, and continue 
 boiling 90 minutes ; observing to turn the wool every 
 10 minutes. Cool the liquor, and take out the wool, 
 and rinse it well in the rinsing basket, and dry the 
 most convenient way. 
 
 Permmient Lavender. 100 lbs. Wool. 
 The vats should not exceed 110 degrees of heat, 
 for this colour. Let the wool be well shaken ; put 
 in the dye-net, then the wool, and turn it diligently 
 until deep enough of the blue, wring out and cool 
 oflfthe green; then rinse well in the rinsing box. — 
 Get a suitable kettle of clean soft water, and make 
 it boil ; then put in 24 oz. good cochineal, ground in 
 a mill similar to a coffee-mill ; also, 8 oz. pulverized 
 Aleppo gall nuts, 2 lbs. allum, 2 lbs. cream of tartar 
 
Molojiy on Dyeing. 23 
 
 and 4 oz. tartaric acid pulverized. Allow these 
 drugs to boil 20 minutes, then run in some cold wa- 
 ter, rake up well, put in the light blue wool, and turn 
 it diligently for 15 minutes. Then get on a brisk 
 fire, and commence boiling, and continue the pro- 
 cess 90 minutes, observing to turn the wool every 
 15 minutes during the process. Run in some cold 
 water, and draw out the fire. Then take out the 
 wool, cool it, and rinse it well in the rinsing box ; 
 allow it to drain 12 hours, and dry in the open air 
 if the weather will permit ; if not, dry in a warm 
 room. 
 
 Another Lavender. 100 lbs. Wool. 
 Take a kettle of clean soft water, and make it boil ; 
 then take 12 or 14 oz. good cudbierd, and put it in- 
 to a tub. Put in merely as much water as will wet 
 it, and stir it until completely wet ; then run in some 
 cold water to stop the boiling ; put in the cudbierd 
 and 1 lb. cream of tartar ; rake up well, and put in 
 in the wool. Turn it well with a long pole ; keep 
 the kettle to 200 deg. of heat. If the dye boils, it is 
 most likely to boil over, and cause waste, as cudbierd 
 is of that nature, that if it simmer it generally boils 
 over. Continue the process 90 minutes. Cool the 
 kettle with water, take out the wool, and wash it in 
 the rinsing box, to take off the loose dye-stuffs. — 
 When it is well drained, put it in the nets in the 
 blue vats, and turn it diligently until deep enough 
 
24 Molony on Dyeing, 
 
 in colour, then wring it and rinse it well. If not red 
 enough, heat the old cudbierd liquor to 200 deg. and 
 return the wool to it, turn it occasionally until red 
 enough. If necessary, a little more cudbierd may 
 be added to the liquor, but observe to take out the 
 wool when red enough, or the right shade obtained. 
 Rinse and dry in a room, as the sun injures this col- 
 our materially. 
 
 The vats in which this colour is blued, should be 
 rery weak of Indigo, and ought to be raked 6 hours 
 previous to dipping the wool. This is a fugitive col- 
 our, but will answer for coarse cloths and satinets. — 
 To add much to the durability of this colour, get a 
 kettle of clean, soft, cold water, and put in about I 
 pint sulphuric acid, and stir it well ; then put in half 
 the wool, and turn it for about 10 minutes ; take out 
 and rinse well, and put it to drain ; add to the above 
 another half pint sulphuric acid ; put in the remain- 
 der, and turn it well for 10 minutes. Take it out 
 and rinse well in cold water. I am well aware that 
 strong acids are injurious to wool, bat I have proved 
 by long experience that when used cold they do not 
 injure it in the least; and the wool may be dryed in 
 the hottest sun, and not fade one shade. 
 
 A Dyer's Post 
 Is made of deal or pine. It ought to be 10 feet in 
 length, and the upper parts at least 12 to 14 inches 
 square. The heaviest end of the tree should be sunk 
 
Molony on Dyeing, S5 
 
 4 1-2 feet in the ground. The part above ground 
 should be smoothly planed and square. There ought 
 to be four arms of lignum vitae inserted in the post, 
 and placed about three feet above the floor. The 
 arms should be of a flatfish round, and tapering from 
 the post to the extremity ; and particularly smooth, 
 if skein silk is to be wrung on them. Four men can 
 wring at the same time. The wringing sticks should 
 be about twenty-seven inches long. 
 
 Golden Olive. 100 Ihs. Wool, 
 Take a kettle of clean soft water, and make it 
 boil ; put in 50 lbs. ground fustic, 5 lbs, pulverized 
 red tartar, (put the fustic into three large bags,) 5 
 lbs. good common madder ; allow these drugs to boil 
 20 mitutes, then run in some cold water to cool down. 
 Rake up well and put in the wool, turn it with a long 
 pole attentively for 20 minutes ; then get on a brisk 
 fire and commence boiling ; turn it every 16 minutes 
 and continue the process 3 hours, observing to keep 
 it boiling all the while. Then put in some cold wa- 
 ter ; take out the wool. Dissolve 1 lb. copperas, 
 and 4 oz. sulphate of copper in boiling water; take 
 out some liquor and cool it with water to 100 deg. ; 
 put in the copperas and sulphate of copper; rake up 
 well, put in the wool, and turn it very attentively for 
 20 minutes ; then get on some fire, and heat to 170 
 deg., observing to turn the wool every 15 minutes. 
 When the kettle is at 170 deg. draw the fire and run 
 
 3 
 
26 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 in some water, turning the wool completely from the 
 bottom, that it may all receive an equal degree of 
 heat ; allow it to remain in the kettle till next day, 
 then run off the liquor, and take out the wool and 
 rinse it well in the wool-washing basket ; dry in the 
 open air, if the weather will permit. 
 
 The quantity of dye-stuff I have mentioned, will 
 produce a handsome Golden Olive, if the drugs are 
 of good quality; if not, more of each sort may be 
 added. When the first kettle full is dyed, the work- 
 man will, of course, add or diminish the quantity of 
 drugs, according to the shade. Dye drugs frequent- 
 ly differ from 20 to 50 per centum, and more dye 
 strength of dye is required for very fine wool, than to 
 produce the same shade in coarse. By using 16 oz. 
 Aleppo gall nuts, and 8 oz. Sicily sumach, instead of 
 the logwood, with the other drugs, the colour will 
 be more permanent, and stand the process of steam- 
 ing better. 
 
 Permanent Slate Colour. 100 lbs. Wool. 
 Have a woad vat at 110 or 115 deg. of heat; it 
 should be very weak of indigo, and raked up 6 hours 
 previously. Put in the dye-net, then the wool, and 
 keep in the wool until it shows an appearance of 
 weak green ; then wring it out, and shake it up well 
 to cool ; rinse well in the rinsing box ; get a suita- 
 ble kettle of clean soft water to boil, and put in 4 oz. 
 Aleppo gall nuts pulverized ; also, 6 oz. barwood and 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 27 
 
 2 lbs. pulverized red tartar. Allow these drugs to 
 boil 20 minutes ; then run in some cold water to cool 
 to JTOdeg. Rake up well, and put in the wool* 
 handling it carefully with a long pole for 20 minutes. 
 Then get on a brisk fire and boil three hours, o - 
 serving to turn the wool every 15 minutes; run in 
 some cold water, and take out the wool. Dissolve 
 IG oz. sulphate of copper, and 8 oz. sulphate of iron; 
 put some water in the kettle, rake up, put in the 
 wool and turn it for ten or fifteen minutes ; get on 
 some fire, and turn the wool every ten minutes, and 
 boil it one hour; draw the fire, and let it remain all 
 night. Then take it and rinse well, and dry in the 
 open air, if the weather will permit; if not, put it in 
 a warm room. 
 
 Permanent Slate. Another Method, 100 lbs. Wool. 
 Take a suitable kettle of clean soft water, and 
 make it boil ; put in 2 lbs. pulverized Aleppo galls, 
 and 2 lbs. pulverized red tartar. If this Slate is 
 wanted to assume a slight shade of purple, put in 8 or 
 10 oz. barwood, and boil all together twenty minutes ; 
 cool to 170 deg., rake up well, and put in the wool, 
 turning it for fifteen minutes ; then get on a brisk 
 fire, and commence boiling, turning it every fifteen 
 minutes, and continuing the process three hours ; — 
 then turn in some water, and take out the wool. — 
 Dissolve 1 lb. copperas and 1 lb. sulphate of copper, 
 
2S Molony on Dyeing, 
 
 and put it in the kettle ; run in some water, rake up 
 well, and put in the wool, turning it for fifteen min- 
 utes ; then get on a brisk fire, and commence boil- 
 ing ; turn the wool every fifteen minutes, and con- 
 tinue the process ninety minutes ; let it remain in 
 the kettle till next morning. Then run off the 
 dye-stuff and take out the wool, and rinse it well ; 
 Dry it in the open air, if the weather will permit. If 
 the Slate is wanted to appear a little green, instead 
 of purple, omit the barwood, and use about 6 oz. 
 ground fustic, with the galls, and red tartar. 
 
 Permanent Sage Drab. 100 lbs. Wool. 
 This colour should be dyed a very pale azure blue, 
 in a weak woad vat ; then rinsed well in the wool- 
 washing basket. Then get on a kettle of clean soft 
 water, and make it boil ; put in 10 lbs. fustic and 2 
 lbs. sulphate of copper finely powdered ; allow these 
 drugs to boil twenty minutes, then cool to 170 deg., 
 put in the wool, and turn it attentively fifteen min- 
 utes ; then get on a brisk fire and commence boil- 
 ing, turning it every ten or fifteen minutes for three 
 hours. Then take out the wool, dissolve 8 oz. sul- 
 phate of copper, and 16 oz. sulphate of iron; put it 
 into the kettle ; also, some cold water to cool it to 
 170 deg. Rake up the liquor, and enter the wool, 
 turning it for fifteen minutes; then get on a brisk 
 fire, and boil, turning every fifteen minutes, and con- 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 29 
 
 tinue the process one hour from the commencement 
 of boiling. Then take out the fire, and run in some 
 cold water ; allow it to remain in the kettle all night. 
 Then run off the dye-stuff, take out the wool, rinse 
 It, and dry it in the open air, if the weather will 
 permit. 
 
 Slate Colour for Coarse Cloth Manufacturing. 
 100 lbs. Wool 
 
 Get a kettle of clean soft water to boil, and put in 
 3 lbs. ground logwood and 8 oz. barwood ; boil 
 twenty minutes, then cool to 170 deg., rake up well, 
 and enter the wool, turning it with a large pole for 
 fifteen minutes ; then get on a brisk fire, and com- 
 mence boiling, turning every fifteen minutes, and 
 continue the process two hours ; then put in some 
 water, and take out the wool. Dissolve 16 oz. cop- 
 peras and 8 oz. sulphate of copper, rake up the li- 
 quor, and enter the wool, turning it for fifteen min- 
 utes ; then get on a brisk fire, turn the wool every 
 fifteen minutes, and continue the process one hour 
 after the boiling commences ; then takeout the fire, 
 run in some water, and allow it to remain in the ket- 
 tle till next morning. Then run off the dye-stuff, 
 take out the wool, rinse well, and dry in the open 
 air. This colour is not permanent, but will stand 
 air and sun nearly as well as a logwood black which 
 is not previously dyed blue. 
 
 3* 
 
30 J\flolony on Dyeing. 
 
 Citron Green, 100 lbs. Wool. 
 For this colour, have the woad vats at liO deg. ; 
 put in the dye-net, then enter the wool, turning it 
 diligently for about ten minutes. The vat should be 
 very weak of indigo, and the colour should not ex- 
 ceed sky blue. When wrung out, rinse it very well 
 in cold water ; get on a suitable kettle of clean soft 
 water, and make it boil ; put in 70 lbs. ground fus- 
 tic and 2 lbs. common madder, in three or four large 
 bags made of very coarse thin cloth, and dissolve 24 
 oz. sulphate of copper in boiling water, and enter 
 this with the fustic into the kettle ; boil these drugs 
 thirty minutes, run in some cold water and cool to 
 170 deg. ; put in the wool, and turn it for ten or fif- 
 teen minutes; then get on a brisk fire, and com- 
 mence boiling, turning the wool every fifteen min- 
 utes, and continue the process three hours: if not 
 yellow enough, take out the wool and boil up some 
 more fustic; and if not brown enough, use a little 
 madder, and manage as above mentioned, until full 
 enough of colour. Rinse in cold water. If not 
 green enough, boil S or 10 oz. pulverized nut galls. 
 It will substitute for three or four shades deficiency 
 in the blue. Any shade of permanent, full green, 
 may be dyed on this method. If the green require 
 much darkening, dissolve (according to shade) say 
 5 or 6 lbs. copperas. Take out the wool, and put it 
 in ; enter the wool, after raking well, and turn it till 
 dark enough ; then rinse well, and dry in open air. 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 31 
 
 French Plum Colour on a Red Shade. 1 00 lbs. Wool. 
 Get on a suitable kettle of clean boiling water, and 
 put in loose 70 lbs. barvvood, 3 lbs. Aleppo galls. 
 piilverized ; let it boil thirty minutes ; then cool with 
 water, rake up well, and enter the wool ; turn it for 
 fifteen minutes, get on a brisk fire, and commence 
 boiling, turn the wool every fifteen minutes, and con- 
 tinue the process three hours ; take out the wool, 
 and dissolve 8 lbs. alum and 4 lbs. cream of tartar, 
 put it in the kettle, rake up well, enter the wool, and 
 turn it fitteen minutes; get on a brisk fire, and com- 
 mence boiling ; continue the process for two hours, 
 observing to turn every fifteen minutes ; take out 
 and rinse, and done. 
 
 Weld Yellow. 100 lbs. Wool. 
 Bo;! a kettle of clean soft water, then put in 18 lbs. 
 English alum, or 23 lbs. American do., boil until all 
 is dissolved ; run in some water, rake up well, then 
 enter 'he wool, and tL;r:i it for fifteen minutes, get on 
 a brisk fire, and boil for four hours, turning every fif- 
 teen minutes; run oft^the liquor, take out the wool, 
 and cleanse the kettle well by scouring with wood 
 ashes; if that is not convenient, cleanse with dis- 
 solved pearlash, used with a coarse cloth. Rinse 
 the wool particularly well in the rinsing box, get 60 
 or 60 lbs. good Weld, and rinse the roots in cold 
 water to cleanse it completely from the clay ; then 
 put it in the bottom of the kettle, and press it down 
 
32 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 that it may not float on the water. You may use a 
 large cross-barred brass or copper hoop. Fill up 
 with clean soft water ; or, which I think a little bet- 
 ter, put the Weld loose in a kettle of boiling water, 
 with 24 oz. pparlash to extract its colouring matter. 
 Boil it thirty minutes, draw the fire, and strain off 
 this liquid into another kettle; enter the wool, get 
 on a fire, and boil ninety minutes, turning every ten 
 minutes during the process. If the Weld be strong, 
 the above quantity will dye 100 lbs. wool a good 
 yellow : if not, boil up some more weld and pearl- 
 ash in the same proportions given abov^. Take out 
 the wool, and strain the boiled weld irto the wool 
 kettle ; return the wool, and boil till full enough of 
 colour ; take out, rinse, and dry in a w^rm room. — 
 Done. 
 
 Bark Yellow, 100 Jhs. Wool 
 Take 20 lbs. citron bark, put it into a kettle of soft 
 water, and heat to 200 deg. ; strain off the clear in- 
 to another kettle ; for this colour, the heat should 
 not exceed 140 deg. Put in 2 qts. tin liquor, (see 
 page ) 6 lbs. alum, and 2 lbs, cream of tartar, 
 rake up well, and enter the wool, handling it well 
 fifteen minutes; commence boiling, and continue 
 one hour; then pour in some cold water, and turn 
 the wool ; then run off the dye-stuff, take out the 
 wool, and rinse particularly well; make a soap lath- 
 er, tolerably strong, in a kettle at 120 degrees, enter 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 33 
 
 the wool fur twenty minutes, to destroy the harshness 
 of the tin liquor ; rinse well, and dry in the open air. 
 Woven goods, or worsted, do not require any soap 
 when dyed yellow. 
 
 Method of setting an Ash Blue Vat, for Woollen goocls. 
 If the vat is 7 feet deep, and contains 1200 gal- 
 lons, do not allow the fire within three feet of the 
 bottom. To set it strong, heat the water in it to 160 
 deg., then put in 14 lbs. good Bengal indigo, well 
 ground in water, 18 lbs. potash, 12 lbs. good com- 
 mon madder, 1 peck of wheat bran, and 3 pails of 
 old urine, and rake well. It should look green in 
 fourteen or sixteen hours, and when agitated should 
 hold a strong bead ; it should be of a clear blue. If 
 it be so, rake up well, and put in 10 lbs. more potash, 
 and heat to only 150 deg. ; put in 4 lbs. madder and 
 3 or 4 qts. bran, and it will be fit for colouring blue 
 next morning. If the blue bead does not appear on 
 the surface, when agitated in fourteen hours, let it 
 rest four hours more, and heat to 150 deg; put in 7 
 lbs. madder, and 1 peck of bran, but no more potash 
 till it holds a blue bead when agitated. An excess 
 of fixed alkali — in that case, when the vat is renova- 
 ted with indigo, use the potash in rather less propor- 
 tion than in making a new vat ; likewise, some of 
 the water of the boiled bran, and 3 lbs. madder to 
 destroy part of the caustic nature of the potash. An 
 ash vat in good order will settle in one hour, when 
 
34 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 raked. I approve of using 2 or 3 pails of urine in 
 setting a new vat, as it comes on rather bolder and 
 will spring sooner. Although potash and urine are^ 
 both alkalies, the urine has a different effect in many 
 instances, being more fixed and less caustic when in 
 a working state. Blue, dyed in an ash vat, is con- 
 siderably more fugitive than a woad blue, though 1 
 admit that an ash vat in good order will dye a hand- 
 some colour, and that it will stand the operation of 
 manufacturing nearly as v/ell. I advise all persons 
 engaged in manufacturing woollen cloths, to prefer 
 woad blues, for various reasons. A woad vat does 
 not enfeeble the staple of the wool, but adds to 
 i;s strength; while potash has a tendency to injure 
 it, by making it to bristle, which wiii cause much waste 
 in all the different operations of manufacturing. — 
 Another advantage — Woad is a weak indigo plant, 
 and assists indigo so that it will produce at least 2 
 lbs. more deep blue wool than can be done in each 
 pound of indigo, in the best ash vat ; besides the 
 credit of its durability to the manufacturer and mer- 
 chant. I do not approve of working a woad vat more 
 than thffee months, without emptying the liquor and 
 setting it anew. Some scientific workmen continue 
 dyeing more than a year, and their blues are equally 
 permanent, but the vats do not work so pleasantly, 
 or yield as much produce, in ray opinion. The vats 
 are more liable to get out of order, and waste time. 
 Ai excess of alkali often liappens in such cases, and 
 t ley require more fermentation than vats oftener set. 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 35 
 
 A putrid fermentation is also more likely to take 
 place, if the workman be not possessed of more than 
 ordinary skill. I advise the ash blue dyer also, not 
 to work his vats more than three months, as it will 
 be a disadvantage to him, by reason of excess of al- 
 kali. Some good practical dyers may reply that all 
 the potash used with the indigo in renovating, will 
 form upon the wool, and leave no more excess of al- 
 kali, than if the vats were set anew every three 
 months; but from such, I differ in opinion. If the 
 argument vi^ere true, it is still a disadvantage. I 
 have proved, by long experience, that old vats re- 
 quire an extra quantity of bean and madder, which 
 form as useful a fermentation as any I am acquaint- 
 ed with, either for ash or woad vats. Some consider 
 it necessary to use a few lbs. of pearlash in woad vats, 
 to excite fermentation. Of this I do not disapprove, 
 if used sparingly and not too frequently. 
 
 Fai^t Mulberry. 100 lbs. Wool. 
 This colour should be dyed quite a pale blue, and 
 then rinsed well in the washing basket in cold water. 
 Allow it to drain a few hours, then get on a suitable 
 kettle of boiling w^ater, and put in 20 or 25 lbs. cam- 
 wood, or otherwise 35 lbs. barwood ; allow it to boil 
 one hour ; cool the liquor, rake up well, and enter 
 the wool ; handle it with a large pole about fifteen 
 minutes, then get on a brisk fire and commence boil- 
 ing, and continue the process three hours ; run in 
 
36 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 some cold water, take out the wool, rinse particular- 
 ly well, and dry the most convenient way. If the 
 colour is too red, dye it a deeper blue, or otherwise 
 diminish the barwood. Two or-more kettle fulls of 
 wool can be done with safety in the same liquor, by 
 using less barwood, at a reduction of 25 per cent, of 
 its proportions. 
 
 Coffee Brown, 100 lbs. Wool, 
 Boil the kettle, take 40 lbs. ground fustic, and 20 
 lbs. common madder, and 4 lbs. red tartar pulverized, 
 put these ingredients in two large bags and put them 
 in the kettle; also put in about 14 lbs. barwood 
 loose. Allow the whole to boil one hour ; run in 
 some water, rake up well all together, enter the wool, 
 and turn it from the bottom and centre, so as to re- 
 verse it as much as possible, tvith a large pole ; con- 
 tinue twenty minutes, then commence boiling, con- 
 tinue about three hours, turning once in fifteen min- 
 utes. Cool the liquor ; dissolve about 5 or 6 lbs. 
 copperas in boiling water, and divide it into three 
 parts ; the first part being put in, the kettle should 
 be run up with almost half cold water, the wool turn- 
 ed ten or fifteen minutes ; then put in the next part, 
 turn as before ; then put in the last, and treat in the 
 same way. Get on a brisk fire and commence boil- 
 ing, turn the wool occasionally until it is tolerably 
 even, then run off the liquor, take out the wool, rinse 
 it well, and dry the most convenient way. Barwood 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 37 
 
 will not yield its strength by boiling in bags, which 
 renders it necessary to put it in loose. Were it not 
 so troublesome to take the wool out of the kettle to 
 sadden or darken, it would be dyed more evenly, and 
 I think the evenness will repay for the extra trouble 
 in taking out. Two kettles of wool can be dyed in 
 the same liquor with safety ; in that case, the wool 
 must be taken out, as it will not answer to put 
 either fustic, madder, barwood, or camwood, in the 
 liquor that copperas is previously used in. 
 
 Light Cinnamon. 100 lbs. Wool, 
 Put 30 lbs. ground fustic, 7 or 8 lbs. common 
 madder, and 5 lbs. red tartar pulverized, into large 
 coarse bags — also, 10 or 12 lbs. barwood loose in 
 the kettle. Allow it to boil thirty minutes, run in 
 some cold water, and enter the wool ; turn it about 
 fifteen or twenty minutes with a large pole ; get on 
 the fire, commence boiling, turn at intervals, and 
 continue the process three hours. Run off some of 
 the liquor, and fill up with cold water ; take out the 
 wool. Dissolve 1 lb. copperas, and put it in the ket- 
 tle, which ought not to exceed 120 deg. Rake up 
 well, and enter the wool, turning it for fifteen or 
 twenty minutes ; then get on a brisk fire, bring the 
 liquor to 190 deg. and continue the process two 
 hours ; cool the kettle, or run it off; take out and 
 rinse, and dry the most convenient way. If a deep- 
 er colour be required, use more camwood or bar- 
 
 4 
 
38 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 wood, likewise more madder. The madder and bar-" 
 wood will cause a redder shade, and a little copperas 
 will darken. I think the given quantity of fustic 
 sufficient for almost any shade of light cinnamon, if 
 the article be good ; if not, use it in larger quantity. 
 Two or three lots of wool can be done, if necessary, 
 by taking out the wool previously to the copperas' 
 being put in, and observing to use less madder and 
 barwood in a proportion of 20 per cent. You need 
 not diminish the quantity of fustic, as the madder and 
 barwood regulate the colour more than the fustic. — 
 I think it extravagant to use a fine quality of mad- 
 der with any brown on woollen goods, or any colour 
 that requires boifing, as an inferior quality does as 
 well. 
 
 Another Mulberry. 100 lbs. Wooh 
 Get a kettle of water to boil) take 20 lbs. ground 
 logwood, 15 lbs. ground peachwood, and put into 
 two large bags ; take 10 lbs. cudbierd, and wet in a 
 pail of water, ivith the hands. As cudbierd will not 
 wet in a large quantity of water, use just as much as 
 will wet it. Put 7 lbs. barwood loose into the ket- 
 tle. Allow the logwood, peachwood, and barwood 
 to boil thirty minutes, then put in the cudbierd, rake 
 and run in some cold water ; enter the wool, and 
 turn it twenty minutes ; commence boiling, and con- 
 tinue three hours; run off almost half the liquor; 
 dissolve 3 lbs. copperas in hot water, mix it with 5 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 39 
 
 or 6 gallons of cold water and put in one-third ; turn 
 fifteen minutes, then put in some more copperas, and 
 continue turning fifteen minutes more ; then put in 
 the last part, and turn as before. Boil and continue 
 boiling two hours, so that it may be even in colour 
 cool the liquor, take out, and rinse in cold vvater. 
 
 Permanent Green Olive. 100 lbs. Wool. 
 Dye the wool a light blue, and rinse it well in cold 
 water. The vats should not exceed 110 deg. of heat, 
 and ought to be weak of indigo, so as not to have 
 the colour dyed too quick, lest it be uneven. Then 
 get a brisk fire to the kettle ; take 30 lbs. ground 
 fustic 2 lbs. Aleppo galls, pulverized, and 4 lbs. com- 
 mon madder; (the madder may be put into the ket- 
 tle loose, but the other drugs should be put into 
 large bags.) Allow all to boil thirty minutes, run in 
 some cold water, rake up well, and enter the wool ; 
 turn it thirty minutes, then commence boiling, and 
 continue the process three hours ; cool the liquor, 
 and take out the wool. If it is considered necessary 
 to darken, dissolve 24 oz. copperas and 12 oz. sul- 
 phate of copper ; the liquor should be cooled to 120 
 deg. ; put in the copperas, &c. ; rake up well, and 
 re-enter the wool, turn it twenty minutes, then com- 
 mence boiling, and continue the process two hours ; 
 cool the kettle, take out the wool, rinse it in the 
 washing-box, and dry in the most convenient way. 
 
40 Molony on Dyeing, 
 
 If this colour is not strong, or deep enough, use more 
 of the dye-drugs. I think it unnecessary to exceed 
 as light a blue as can be dyed evenly. If too brown, 
 diminish the madder: if too dark, use less copperas 
 and blue vitriol. 
 
 Broivn Olive, 100 lbs. Wool 
 Dye it as pale a blue as to have it tolerably even, 
 and rinse well in the washing-box ; get a suitable 
 kettle to boil, and put 40 lbs. ground fustic into a 
 large bag ; take 10 or 12 lbs. common madder, made 
 very fine by pounding, and put loose into the kettle. 
 Put in the fustic, and allow it to boil thirty minutes ; 
 run in some cold water, rake up well, enter the wool 
 and turn it twenty minutes ; commence boiling, and 
 continue the process three hours. Run off some of 
 the liquor, and fill with cold water ; take out the 
 wool ; dissolve 3 lbs. copperas in hot water, have the 
 liquor at about 150 deg., and put in the copperas ; 
 rake up well, and enter the wool, turning it carefully 
 ten or fifteen minutes ; get on a fire, and turn occa- 
 sionally ; commence boiling, and turn frequently un- 
 til dark enough ; then draw the fire, and allow it to 
 remain till next day, if time will admit; if not, rinse 
 it before it becomes cold, and dry the most conveni- 
 ent way. The quantity of copperas named will make 
 it very dark; and the workman may add or diminish, 
 according to his own taste. 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 41 
 
 Permanent Invisible Green. 100 lbs. Wool. 
 Dye the wool deep blue in the woad vats, and rinse 
 well in the rinsing box ; get on a kettle of conveni- 
 ent size, to boil ; put 10 or 12 lbs. fustic in a large 
 coarse bag, and allow it to boil twenty minutes. — 
 Cool the liquor to 160 deg. ; dissolve 24 oz. sulphate 
 of copper, and put it in the kettle, rake up well, and 
 enter the wool ; turn it with the pole ten or twelve 
 minutes, then get on a brisk fire and commence boil- 
 ing ; continue the process two hours ; run in some 
 cold water, take out the wool, rinse well, and dry the 
 most convenient way. 
 
 Another Method of Dyeing Invisible Green. 
 100 lbs. Wool 
 Get on a suitable kettle, and boil ; put in 15 lbs. 
 English, or 18 lbs. American alum, 3 lbs. red tartar, 
 and 4 lbs. copperas; cool the kettle to 160 deg. ; — 
 enter the wool, turn briskly for ten or fifteen minutes^ 
 and commence boiling ; boil three hours, then cool, 
 take out the wool, and allow it to remain in baskets 
 till next day ; then rinse it well in the washing box, 
 and put it to drain. Get a suitable kettle and make 
 it boil , put 20 lbs. ground logwood, and 6 lbs. ground 
 fustic into two coarse bags, and allow it to boil one 
 hour ; cool the liquor, rake up well, and enter the 
 wool ; turn it for ten or fifteen minutes, then get on 
 a brisk fire and commence boiling ; turn occasionally, 
 
 4* 
 
42 Molony on Dyeing, 
 
 continue the process two hours ; cool the liquor by 
 running in a considerable quantity of cold water ; — 
 run off the liquor, take out the wool, rinse well in the 
 washing box, and dry the most convenient way. 
 
 ^Method of Dyeing Cloth an Invisible Green. 100 lbs. 
 In case of not having a woad or ash vat, boil the 
 cloth in water one hour j then boil 12 lbs. fustic one 
 hour; put in about 4 qts. sulphate of indigo, and 9 
 lbs. alum; cool the liquor to 150 deg. Rake up 
 well, and enter the cloth ; wynch it and keep it well 
 spread ; get on a brisk fire, commence boiling and 
 wynching, continue the process ninety minutes, take 
 out the cloth, and rinse it particularly well. Get on 
 a convenient kettle with clean water ; put about 10 
 lbs. good ground logwood in a large coarse bag ; — 
 boil, put in the bag, and let it boil thirty minutes . 
 cool the liquor, enter the cloth, turn it briskly, and 
 keep it spread on the wynch in turning ; get on the 
 iire, commence boiling & turning, and continue the 
 process ninety minutes ; cool the liquor, and take out^ 
 Dissolve 10 lbs. copperas, and put it in the kettle ; 
 rake well, and enter the cloth ; get on the fire, and 
 keep turning with the wynch till dark enough. If 
 not green enough, take out the cloth, and boil a few 
 lbs. of fustic in the same liquo r, enter again and turn 
 until deep enough ; wash well, and tenter the cloth ; 
 done. 
 
Molony on Dyeing, 43 
 
 Method of setting a Hot Vat, for Blue Cotton Dyeing. 
 If the vat is heated by fire, do not allow it within 
 three feet of the bottom, if six feet deep, and contain 
 800 gallons. Get it to 170 deg. Put in 10 or 12 
 gallons of old urine, 10 lbs. common madder, 24 lbs. 
 good E. India indigo, well ground in water, and 8 or 
 10 lbs. wheat bran; rake up well; dissolve 40 lbs. 
 good potash in boiling water, and put into the vat ; 
 cover it closely, and allow it to settle twelve or four- 
 teen hours. It ought to be sprung, (as termed by 
 dyers,) or assume a green appearance. If not sprung, 
 boil 10 lbs. bran and 5 lbs. common madder, and 
 strain off the clear liquor into the vat; then it will 
 soon spring. When sprung, let it remain so for a 
 few hours ; then heat it to 150 deg. Next morning 
 it will be fit for colouring blue. Run five pieces cot- 
 ton flannel in it ; then rake up. It will be fit to work 
 five times each day, allowing ninety minutes to set- 
 tle every raking. If it turn blackish in working, it 
 has too much alkali. Renovate with indigo, and 
 work the srme liquor for ten or twelve weeks. If it 
 work too dark when renewing with indigo, use the 
 potash rather under the above proportions to the in- 
 digo; but the same proportions of bran and madder. 
 Do not put in the sediment. After the first heating, 
 if it looks yellow, use more potash in proportion. 
 
 Myrtle Green. 100 Ihs. Wool. 
 Dye the wool a light blue, or rather a middling 
 
44 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 blue ; rinse well in the washing box. It will answer 
 to dye this blue in vats at a regular heat, about 130 
 deg. Get a suitable kettle to boil, put in 50 lbs. 
 ground fustic, and 5 lbs. ground logwood in two 
 large bags ; allow it to boil thirty minutes, cool the 
 liquor, enter the wool, and turn it fifteen minutes ; 
 get on a brisk fire, and commence boiling ; turn, at 
 intervals, and continue the process three hours. Cool 
 the kettle, and take out the wool. If not dark enough 
 put in 1 lb. dissolved copperas, 1 lb. sulphate of cop- 
 per, and cool the liquor ; rake up well, re-enter the 
 wool, and turn for fifteen minutes ; get on a brisk 
 fire, handle it at intervals until it is moderately even, 
 and deep enough ; cool the liquor, or run it off; take 
 out the wool, rinse it in the washing box, and dry the 
 most convenient way. 
 
 Damson Brown. 100 Ihs. Wool. 
 Put 50 lbs. barwood loose into a boiling kettle' 
 and 30 lbs. ground logwood into a large bag ; allow 
 these to boil one hour ; cool the liquor, enter the 
 wool, and turn it for fifteen minutes ; get on a brisk 
 fire, and boil three hours, turning every fifteen min- 
 utes. Cool the liquor ; dissolve 5 lbs. copperas in 
 hot water, and put it into 6 or 7 gallons of cold wa- 
 ter ; put in about one-third part, turn well for fifteen 
 minutes ; then put in another part, and turn fifteen 
 minutes longer ; put in the last part and turn fifteen 
 minutes. Get on a brisk fire, and boil two hours, 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 45 
 
 turning at intervals ; cool the kettle, run off the li- 
 quor, take out the wool, rinse in the washing basket, 
 dry, and done. If not blue enough, use more log- 
 wood; if not dark enough, use more copperas. 
 
 Fast Purple Mix, 100 Ihs. Wool. 
 Boil a kettle containing 200 gallons; take 3 \-i 
 lbs. English alum, or 4 lbs. American do, 3 1-2 
 lbs. cream of tartar, and 4 oz. tartaric acid, and boil 
 together; cool the kettle, rake up well, enter the 
 wool, and turn for fifteen minutes ; then boil for 3 
 hours ; cool, take out the wool, and allow it to drain; 
 then put 2 lbs. of good, well pulverized cochineal, I 
 lb. of alum, and 1 lb. carbonate of soda into the sanle 
 liquor ; boil twenty minutes, cool, enter the wool, 
 and turn it fifteen minutes ; boil, and continue the 
 process three hours. Take out and rinse well, and 
 the result will be a pink. Mix it with woad blue, and 
 it will form a purple mix, that will stand steaming. 
 It is as permanent a colour as any that can be dyed 
 on wool. 
 
 Lilac, or Light Purple. 100 Ihs. Vv^ool. 
 Get on a suitable kettle, and boil. Put 30 lbs. 
 good cudbierd into a tub, and wet it with as little 
 water as possible, with a whisk or your hands ; put 
 it into the kettle ; put in also 1 lb. cream of tartar ; 
 cool the liquor, and enter the wool ; bring the kettle 
 
46 JMolony onJDyeing. 
 
 as nearly as possible to boiling, and continue the 
 process two hours. Itwillyeild its strength without 
 boiling. Cool. Fill a large kettle with cold water, 
 and put in 1 1-2 pints of oil vitriol, turn the wool in 
 it carefully, then rinse in cold water. Bypassing it 
 through the acid, it will resist the sun four or five 
 days, if it should be necessary t(5 keep the wool vat 
 so long from showers. 
 
 Green Olive; another method. 100 Ihs, IVool. 
 
 Take 20 lbs. ground fustic, 5 lbs. Sicily, or 10 lbs. 
 American sumach, and 10 lbs. good ground logwood ; 
 put these into three large coarse bags ; put them in- 
 to the kettle, and boil thirty minutes ; run in some 
 cold water, and cool to IGOdeg. E.ake up well, en- 
 ter the wool, and turn it briskly for fifteen minutes ; 
 then get on a brisk fire, and boil for three hours, 
 handling every ten minutes ; run off some of the li- 
 quor, and run in some cold water ; take out the woob 
 and dissolve 3 lbs. sulphate of iron, and 1 lb. sul- 
 phate of copper ; cool to 160 deg. and put in the 
 last named ingredients ; rake up well, enter the woob 
 handle it so as to reverse it for ten or fifteen min- 
 utes, then get on a brisk fire, and boil for one hour, 
 liun off some of the liquor, fill with cold w^ater, turn 
 the wool so as to reverse it all, and let it remain all 
 night, if convenient. Take it out next day, wash 
 and dry in the open air, if the weather will permit ; 
 if not, dry in a warm room. This is not a very per- 
 manent colour, but will answer for coarse cloth. 
 
JMolomj on Dyeing. 47 
 
 Sandij Drab 100 lbs, V/ool. 
 Take 5 lbs. ground fustic, 1 lb. common madder, 
 and put into a coarse bag ; put 1 lb. camwood and 1 
 lb. pulverized red tartar loose into the kettle ; allow 
 all to boil one hour ; cool to 160 deg., rake up well, 
 turn the wool in the kettle ten or fifteen minutes, get 
 on a brisk fire, and boil two or three hours, turning 
 at intervals, otherwise it will be too uneven ; cool, 
 and take out the wool. Dissolve 12 oz. sulphate of 
 iron, and put into the kettle, while at 1 50 deg. E,ake 
 up well, and enter the wool. Put in the damper, 
 lest the colour be too uneven. Turn for ten or fif- 
 teen minutes, take out the damper and get on the 
 fire ; turn every fifteen minutes, and boil one hour ; 
 run off the liquor, take out the wool, and rinse before 
 it becomes cold, and dry the most convenient way. 
 
 Very Light Fawn. 100 lbs. Wool. 
 Take 2 lbs. ground fustic, 4 oz. camwood, 2 oz. 
 common madder, and 2 lbs. pulverized red tartar, 
 and boil them thirty minutes; cool to 140 deg. — 
 Rake up well, put in the damper to stop the draft ; 
 enter the wool, and turn it particularly well for fif- 
 teen minutes ; take out the damper, get on a brisk 
 fire, and boil two hours, turning as often as once in 
 ten minutes ; run in some cold water, and take out 
 the wool. Dissolve 2 oz. copperas, and 4 oz. pulver- 
 ized red tartar, and put in when the liquor is at 140 
 deg. Rake up well, enter the wool, turning dili- 
 
48 JMolony on Dyeing. 
 
 gently fifteen minutes; take out the damper, and 
 turn ten minutes, till the heat is 190 deg. Then run 
 in some cold water, run off the kettle, take out the 
 wool, rinse well, and dry the most convenient way. 
 Many dyers may think it too much trouble to take 
 out the wool to sadden, but the colour will be so much 
 more even, as, in my opinion, to satisfy for the extra 
 labor. 
 
 Blue Fawn. 100 Ihs. Wool. 
 Boil 4 lbs. ground fustic, 2 lbs. camwood, 1 lb. 
 pulverized Aleppo galls, and 2 lbs. pulv. red tartar ; 
 the fustic should be put in a bag ; other drugs may 
 be loose in the kettle; boil one hour; cool to 160 
 deg. Rake up well, put in the damper, enter the 
 wool, and turn it fifteen minutes ; take out the dam- 
 per, get on a brisk fire, and commence boiling ; con- 
 tinue to boil, turning frequently during the process, 
 2 or 3 hours. Runoff some of the dye, fill up with 
 cold water, and take out the wool. Dissolve 12 oz. 
 copperas, & 4 oz. pulv. red tartar ; cool to 150 deg. 
 Rake up well, enter the wool, and put down the 
 damper ; turn for fifteen or twenty minutes, take out 
 the damper, turn at intervals, commence boiling, 
 and continue one hour ; run off some of the dye- 
 stuff, and put in some cold water ; take out the wool 
 and rinse in the rinsing box. and dry the most conve- 
 nient way. This colour will be more even by rins- 
 ing before it is thoroughly cold. 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 49 
 
 Silver Drab. 100 lbs. Wool. 
 
 Boil a kettle of convenient size; put in 14 oz. 
 ground fustic, 4 oz. madder, 1 lb. cream of tartar, 
 and half an oz. copperas; boil thirty minutes, rake 
 up well, put in the damper to stop the heat, shake 
 up the wool particularly well, enter it, and turn care- 
 fully for twenty minutes. Take out the damper, get 
 on a fire briskly, and reverse the wool every five min- 
 utes ; commence boiling and turning, and continue 
 the process two hours. Cool, run off the dye-stuff, 
 take out the wool, and wash well in the rinsing box, 
 and dry in the clear atmosphere, if the weather will 
 permit ; if not, dry it cool on a boarded floor. 
 
 This colour is so very light, that it is seldom used ; 
 however, the dyer can add or diminish. Some man- 
 ufacturers frequently use it to mix with other colours, 
 in preference to white scoured wool. 
 
 Yellow Drab. 100 lbs. Wool. 
 Put into a boiling kettle of convenient size, 4 lbs. 
 ground fustic, 1 lb. common madder, and 2 lbs. pul- 
 verized red tartar; (these articles may be put into a 
 large coarse bag.) Boil thirty minutes, cool to 150 
 deg., rake up well, and enter the wool, turning it with 
 a pole about twenty minutes, (having the damper in 
 all this time.) Get on a brisk fire, take out the dam- 
 per, reverse the wool every ten minutes, boil three 
 hours, run off some of the dye-stuff, and put in some 
 cold water ; turn the wool, and take it out. Dissolve 
 
 5 
 
50 Molony on Dyeing* 
 
 8 oz. copperas in hot water ; cool the dye-stufF to 
 140 deg. then put in the copperas. Put in the dam- 
 per, rake up well, and enter the wool, turning it for 
 twenty minutes ; take out the damper, get on a brisk 
 fire, and boil ninety minutes, turning as often as once 
 in ten minutes. Take out, and rinse immediately^ 
 and dry the most convenient way. 
 
 Fa^t Maroon, 100 Ihs. Wool, 
 
 Boil a suitable kettle ; then take 75 lbs. good cam- 
 wood, 1 lb. Aleppo galls, and 4 lbs. pulverized red 
 tartar, and put them into seven very coarse, thinly 
 woven, hemp bags ; boil the above two hours, then 
 cool to 180 deg. Rake up well, and enter the wool, 
 turning well for fifteen or twenty minutes ; get on a 
 brisk fire and boil three hours, turning at intervals of 
 ten minutes. Put in some cold water, and take out 
 the wool ; then put in 5 lbs. alum and 1 lb. cream of 
 tartar ; allow it to be all dissolved ; then put in the 
 wool so as to reverse it. Get on a brisk fire and boil 
 ninety minutes, turning the wool every ten minutes j 
 run off some of the liquor, take out the wool, rinse 
 particularly well, and dry in the open air. 
 
 Real Olive. 100 lbs. Wool. 
 
 In a woad vat at 110 deg., dye the wool as light a 
 blue as can be done to have it everi, and rinse well ; 
 boil a suitable kettle, and put 40 lbs. ground fustic, 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 61 
 
 3 lbs. common, and 4 lbs. good common madder, in- 
 to three large bags, and boil one hour in the kettle ; 
 cool to 170 deg. Rake up well, enter the wool, and 
 turn it for twenty minutes ; then get on a brisk fire 
 and boil three hours, turning every ten minutes ; take 
 out the wool, run off some of the liquor. Dissolve 
 2 lbs. copperas, and 1 lb. sulphate of copper ; cool 
 the dye-stuff to 170 deg. ; put in the copperas, &c.; 
 rake up well, put in the wool, and turn it for ten oi 
 fifteen minutes ; get on a brisk fire and boil one hour, 
 turning every ten minutes ; draw out the fire, and let 
 the wool remain in the dye-stuff all night. Run off 
 the dye-stuff, take out the wool, rinse well, and dry 
 in the atmospheric air, if the weather will permit. 
 
 Dove Drab. 100 lbs. Wool. 
 Take a kettle of clean water, and boil ; then put 
 in 2 lbs. Alleppo galls pulverized, 4 oz. camivood, 
 and 2 lbs. red tartar; boil these drugs thirty min- 
 utes, then cool with clean water to 160 deg. Putin 
 the damper, rake up, and put in the wool, turning it 
 briskly, so as to reverse it all, and continue handling 
 for twenty minutes ; take out the damper, get on a 
 strong fire, and commence boiling, and continue for 
 ninety minutes. Allow 40 or 50 gallons to run out ; 
 then take out the wool. Dissolve 12 oz. copperas 
 and 4 oz. sulphate of copper ; cool to 160 deg. and 
 put in the last named articles ; rake up well and en- 
 ter the wool ; put in the damper, turn diligently for 
 
62 Molony on Dyeing, 
 
 twenty minutes, then take out the damper, get on a 
 strong fire, and boil for ninety minutes, observing to 
 reverse the wool by handling well with a large pole? 
 every ten minutes . Draw the fire, run in some vva- 
 ter, and turn the wool ; allow it to remain in the ket- 
 tle all night ; take out, rinse well, and dry the most 
 convenient way. 
 
 Salmon Drab. 100 lbs. Wool. 
 Boil a kettle of cleaa water, and put in 3 or 4 lbs. 
 red tartar pulverized, 2 lbs. ground fustic, and 4 lbs. 
 camwood. Boil one hour, then cool to 150 deg. and 
 put in the damper ; rake up well, enter the wool, and 
 turn so as to reverse it for twenty minutes ; then take 
 out the damper, get on a strong fire, turning the 
 wool every ten minutes ; boil three hours, put in 
 some cold water, turn the wool, and run off the dye- 
 stuff ; take out the wool, rinse in the rinsing box, 
 and dry the most convenient way. 
 
 Method of making Tin Liquor j for Lac Scarlet. 
 
 Get 20 lbs. muriatic acid, and 2 lbs. sulphuric acid, 
 and put into two large pots made of good stone ware ; 
 then put about 4 lbs. grain tin into an iron ladle on 
 a hot fire to melt ; when melted, pour it into a large 
 tub of cold water, letting it run in slowly ; then put 
 slowly into the pots of acids, (if put in too quickly, 
 such is the aflSnity of the acids for the tin, that a 
 
jyiolony on Dyeing. 53 
 
 great heat will be excited, and the pots probably 
 burst ;) about two oz. every ten minutes. 
 
 No. 2. Another Lac Spirit. Use 6 gallons mu- 
 riatic acid, 1 gallon of single aquafortis, and 15 lbs. 
 tin, as directed above. 
 
 No. 3. Tin Liquor for Cochineal Scarlet, on 
 woollen goods; it will answer also for Pink or Crim- 
 son. 3 qts. muriatic acid for 40 oz. tin. 
 
 No. 4. Tin Liquor for Logwood or Puce. Use 
 3 gallons muriatic acid for 6 lbs. tin. 
 
 No. 5. Tin Liquor for Bark Yellow. 2 gallons 
 muriatic acid and 2 qts. sulphuric acid ; feed with 7 
 lbs. tin. 
 
 Tin Ldquors for Cotton. 
 
 No. I. Red. Use 8 qts. muriatic acid and 2 qti. 
 double nitric acid : feed with 8 lbs. tin, in the same 
 manner as before prescribed. 
 
 No. 2. Logwood Purple on woollen or cotton 
 goods. Put 4 quarts muriatic acid into a large Stone 
 pot, and feed it slowly with as much grain tin as i% 
 will hold in solution. 
 
 No. 3. For Bark Yellow on cotton. Put 36 lbs. 
 muriatic acid and 9 lbs. sulphuric acid into two large 
 stone pots, and feed slowly with 10 lbs. 8 oz, grain 
 tin, as before directed. 
 
 No. 4. For Barwood Red on cotton. Use 3 galls, 
 muriatic acid and 2 qts. double nitric acid, and feed 
 slowly with 10 lbs. tin. 
 
 5* 
 
54 Molony on Dyeing, 
 
 Tin Liquors for Silk. 
 
 No. 1. Scarlet, Crimson or Geranium. 6 lbs. 
 muriatic acid, 6 lbs. pure double nitric acid, and 4 
 oz. sal. ammoniac ; feed with 3 lbs. grain tin. 
 
 No. 2. Chocolate. 1 qt. muriatic acid ; feed 
 with 6 oz. tin. 
 
 No. 3. Bark Yellow. Feed 8 qts. muriatic acid 
 with 3 lbs. tin. 
 
 No. 4. Purple. 2 gallons muriatic acid and 1 
 gallon double nitric acid ; feed with 36 oz. tin, and 
 2 oz. sal. ammoniac. 
 
 No. 5. Crimson. 1 gallon of muriatic acid and 
 one of single aquafortis. 
 
 Method of Scouring Woollen or Worsted Yarn. 
 Tf the yarn be coarse, use one part urine to three 
 parts of water at 140 deg. ; then make a strong soap 
 lather at 140 deg. and handle in the lather until it is 
 free from oil, and rinse in luke warm water. 
 
 Red Drab. 50 lbs. Worsted. 
 Boil the kettle, and put in 1 lb. ground red tartar, 
 1 lb. fustic, and 4 oz. camwood; boil ten minutes, 
 and cool with water ; rake up, enter the yarn, and 
 give it five turns. Then get on the fire, turn ev- 
 ery five minutes, and when you have turned eight 
 times, take out, and put in 4 oz. more camwood, and 
 turn as before. If wanted a little on the blueish 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 66 
 
 shade of red, take out, and use a little cudbierd. — 
 For this colour, do not exceed 180 deg. If not yel- 
 low enough, use more fustic. Rinse well, and dry 
 in a warm room. 
 
 Lac Scarlet. 50 lbs. 
 
 Boil 6 lbs. good lac dye, 40 oz. cream of tartar, 1 
 lb. red tartar, 6 pints No. 1 lac spirit, and 8 oz. yel- 
 low oak bark, twenty minutes : rake up, cool the li- 
 quor, enter the worsted or yarn, and give it five turns. 
 Boll one hour, turning every five minutes ; dry the 
 most convenient way. If fuller's earth be used in 
 rinsing, it will impart beauty to the colour. 
 
 Cochineal Scarlet. 40 lbs. Worsted. 
 Boil 8 oz. yellow oak bark in a small bag ; then 
 put in 4 oz. good cochineal, 5 lbs. cream of tartar, 
 and boil twenty minutes ; then put in 3 pints fecarlet 
 tin liquor, (see page 53.) Cool a little, rake up well 
 and enter the worsted or yarn ; give it seven turns, 
 and commence boiling ; turn every five minutes, and 
 boil two hours ; cool the liquor, take out and dry. 
 
 Royal Adelaide. 40 lbs. Worsted. 
 Dye it a light blue in a woad vat, and rinse well ; 
 then boil 1 lb. pulterized cochineal, 2 lbs. cream of 
 
66 Molony on Dyeing, 
 
 tartar, and 2 pints " Tin liquor for Scarlet." (sec 
 page 53.) Boil twenty minutes, cool, rake up well, 
 and enter the worsted ; give it seven turns, and com- 
 mence boiling; turn every five minutes, and boil two 
 hours ; cool, take out, and rinse well. All cochineal 
 and lac colours should be dried in the open air, if 
 the weather will permit. Some people try to dye 
 this colour with camwood; but so handsome a shade 
 cannot be obtained. Add or diminish the quantity 
 of the drugs, according to the shade wanted, without 
 altering the proportions. 
 
 Royal Purple, on Circassian Broadcloth, or Worsted, 
 40 lbs. 
 Boil 5 lbs. ground logwood, 1 lb. of alum, run in 
 a few pails of cold water to stop the boiling ; enter 
 the goods, and turn carefully for fifteen or twenty 
 minutes ; then boil two hours, turning 'every five 
 minutes, if worsted — if broadcloth, it will require 
 constant turning. Take out, run off about half the 
 liquor, put in the damper, fill up the kettle with cold 
 water, then put in about a pint of " No. 4, tin liquor," 
 (see page 53 ;) rake up well, enter the goods, and 
 turn very attentively. Get on some fire to heat the 
 liquor, but do not boil it. When done, take out, 
 rinse and dry. The drugs may be added or dimin- 
 ished, in the above proportions. 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 57 
 
 Imitation of Adelaide on Broadcloth. 60 Ihs. 
 Boil the cloth three hours in 9 lbs. alum, and 2 lbs. 
 pulv. red tartar. If it is fine cloth, turn without in- 
 termission ; (if turned on a log or solid vvynch, the 
 goods will be better grounded or penetrated.) Cool 
 the liquor, rinse well in the rinsing box, or in a run- 
 ning stream. Lay it out straight and cover up for 
 twenty-four hours, before rinsing. Boil 10 lbs. ground 
 logwood, 12 lbs. peachwood, 3 lbs. camwood, and 2 
 lbs. red tartar; cool, enter the goods, commence 
 boiling and turning two hours, take out, rinse, and 
 done. 
 
 To make Sulphate of Indigo. 
 Take 6 lbs. oil vitriol, i lb. Spanish float, or Bengal 
 Indigo, ground fine as flour ; put in the indigo, theii 
 put in 3 lbs. of the oil vitriol, and stir five minutes j 
 then add the remainder of the acid, stir it ten or fif- 
 teen minutes. By mixing as above, it excites such 
 heat that it will be nearly as smooth as oil. By stir- 
 ring the abovenamed time, it will dye a better light 
 blue in one hour, on worsted, than when twenty-four 
 hours or two days old. If wanted for dyeing green 
 silk, in twelve or fourteen hours after being made, 
 add by degrees 4 or 5 galls, hot water. By doing 
 £0, the green can be done with less fustic, as the 
 acid will not oppose it so vigorously. It will also 
 preserve the sulphate of indigo for months or years. 
 
jS Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 To refine Sulphate of Indigo. 
 
 Heat a kettle of clean soft water; put in a quan- 
 tity of the sulphate ; absorb the strength upon some 
 w<»oi well scoured; boil it on the wool, and rinse in 
 cold water. Heat a kettle of clean soft water, and 
 add a little pearlash ; boil off the colour, and save it 
 u\ a pine tub. Add a little sulphuric acid to pre- 
 
 S'^l\Q it. 
 
 To prepare China, or neutralize Sulphate of Indigo. 
 
 To 2 qts. sulphate of indigo, add 12 or 14 gallons 
 rold water; then add 3 or 4 qts. carbonate of lime, 
 (common whiting) by degrees. It will be fit for use 
 i»i a few hours. 
 
 is necessary to have a box of Hydrameters to prove 
 acids. 
 
 I am best acquainted with Twaddle's scale, and 
 rcommend it, it is so easily understood ; although 
 f>ther glasses may answer as well. I believe Baumes' 
 scale to be most in use in America. 66 deg. on the 
 latter scale, 170 deg. Twaddle's. 
 
 Muriatic acid should stand 33 deg. 
 
 Single aquafortis " " 33 " 
 
 iSulphuric acid " '' 170 '« 
 
Molony on Dyeing, U'j 
 
 Method of Dyeing Lavender on Worsted. 20 ///.t. 
 Put 1 lb. cudbierd, well wet with the hands, into 
 a kettle of clean water at 190 deg. Enter the worti- 
 led, and turn it on the sticks occasionally, for one 
 hour; try a thread of it in a weak blue vat, and if not 
 red enough, use more cudbierd ; rinse in a woad or 
 ash vat, not exceeding 100 deg. Rins^e well, and dry 
 in a warm room. 
 
 Magazine Blue. 40 Ihs. Worsted. 
 Put 3 lbs. of cudbierd into a pail, and add 2 or 3 
 qts. warm water ; stir it with a whisk, till^ v^ et ; 
 then put it into a kettle of water at 190 deg. Put 
 in the worsted and turn it occasionally for one hour i 
 rinse it in cold water, then handle it in a woad vot at 
 about 120 deg. until blue enough. If not red enough, 
 return to the cudbierd ; and if the liquor be not 
 strong enough, add more of the cudbierd. Handle 
 till full enough. Woven cloth and worsted sturis 
 can be dyed on the same principle. 
 
 Chemical Magazine Blue* 40 lbs. 
 Put about a pint and a half of sulphate of indigo 
 into a kettle of water at 100 deg. Put in the wors- 
 ted, turn five times, get on the fire, and heat to loO 
 deg. Take out and rinse in cold water. Boil a ket- 
 tle of clean water, and put in 2 lbs. ground logwood, 
 cool to 160 deg. and put in one pint " No. 4 tin (i- 
 
60 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 quor," (see page 53 ;) turn the worsted, and heat up 
 until deep enough ; rinse and dry in a warm room. 
 
 Rose Pink, on Worsted or Woven Goods. 40 lbs. 
 
 Boil a kettle of convenient size, and put in about 
 14 oz. ground cochineal, 24 oz. cream of tartar, and 
 4 oz. alum ; boil twenty minutes, then cool with cold 
 water, put in Ih pints of " No. 3 tin liquor," (see 
 page 53 ;) rake up well and enter the goods, turning 
 carefully fifteen minutes ; get on the fire and boil 
 ninety minutes, turning occasionally ; cool, take out 
 and rinse in cold water. Lighter pinks can be done 
 in the same kettle, by diminishing the drugs, and 
 proportioning as above. If you wish to blue and 
 pink, rinse well in cold water, then get on a kettle 
 of clean soft water, and heat to 100 deg. If the 
 quantity be 40 lbs. put in 10 oz. salt of tartar, enter 
 the goods, give eight or nine turns, then get on the 
 fire, and heat to 160 deg. turning carefully all the 
 time, to prevent unevenness. If necessary to use 
 more salt of tartar, cool to 100 deg. Then heat to 
 160 deg., take out, rinse and dry in a warm room. — 
 Urine or pearlash will also blue a pink, but not so 
 delicately. 
 
 For Worsted Dyeing, 
 There should be two stationary bearers, about 42 
 inches in height, over each kettle, to lay the worsted 
 
Molony on Dyeing, 61 
 
 on, to drain in the kettles. Round kettles are not 
 the most convenient for worsted dyeing. 
 
 For dyeing large quantities of worsted, or long 
 reeled carpet yarn, the kettles should be 6 feet long, 
 5 feet deep, and nearly 4 feet wide, and the upper 
 Und bottom parts being of the same width. Flange 
 to be about 10 inches wide. 
 
 100 lbs. of carpet yarn can be conveniently dyed 
 in a kettle of the above named size, in all descrip- 
 tions of dye-houses. I think it very important that 
 the fire should be situated out of doors, thus saving 
 much room, and promoting cleanliness. 
 
 Cochineal Crimson. 50 lbs. Worsted. 
 Put 50 oz. good cochineal, 5 lbs. cream of tartar, 
 and 1 lb. alum, into a kettle of clean boiling water, 
 and boil twenty minutes ; cool the liquor, put in 5 
 pints " No. 3 tin liquor," (see page 53 ;) enter the 
 worsted, give it five turns, then a turn every five 
 minutes, for three hours. Cool, take out and rinse 
 well. Get a kettle of clean soft water to 100 deg. ; 
 then put in 16 or 18 oz. pearlash; handle the wor- 
 sted 7 turns, then heat to 160 deg., which should 
 not be exceeded. If not blue enough, use more of 
 the fixed alkali. Rinse, and dry in a warm room. 
 
 Madder Red on Flannel, 60 lbs. 
 Boil in a suitable kettle, then put in 12 lbs. Amer- 
 
62 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 ican alum, 2 lbs. red tartar, and 1 lb. " No. 1 tin 
 liquor," (see page 53.) Boil the flannel three hours, 
 and keep it well spread on the wynch ; cool, take 
 out the goods, and list out straight in cooling, and 
 cover it in a large basket to prevent its drying. — 
 (Pack sheets or wool bags are very suitable for this 
 purpose.) Allow it to remain to sour twenty-lour 
 hours; then rinse well. Take 21 lbs. good cropped 
 madder, and put it into a large tub of hot water ; — 
 put about one-fourth of the madder into a kettle of 
 cold water, commence wynching, put on a fire, turn 
 constantly. In fifteen or twenty minutes put in an- 
 other part of the madder, (getting up the heat grad- 
 ually ;) in fifteen minutes more put in the remainder 
 of the madder. The liquor should not boil in less 
 than 100 minutes from the commencement. When 
 it boils a few minutes, take out, rinse well, and dry 
 in tenters. 
 
 P. S. Use 7 lbs. wheat bran in the madder 
 kettle. 
 
 j1 new method of Dyeing Fast Red on Woollens. 
 
 [invented by the author in NOV. 1833.] 
 
 For 60 lbs. woven goods or worsted, a strong red. 
 Into a suitable kettle of boiling water, put about 4 
 lbs. camwood, and boil it twenty minutes ; cool, 
 rake up, and enter the goods ; boil and turn care- 
 fully for ninety minutes ; take out the goods ; put in 
 12 oz. yellow oak bark, or citron, 9 lbs. alum, 4 lbs. 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 63 
 
 red tartar, and 3 pints " No. 2 tin liquor," (see page 
 53.) Rake up, handle the goods carefully, and boil 
 three hours ; take out, and cover the goods careful- 
 ly to prevent drying. Allow it to remain in that 
 state 48 hours, if time will permit ; then rinse well 
 in cold water. Get on a kettle of clean water, and 
 put in 18 or 20 lbs. of mungeete. When the water 
 is a little warm, enter the goods, and bring on the 
 heat slowly ; (it should not boil in less than ninety 
 minutes.) Turn all the time. (It does not require 
 boiling.) Take out, rinse and dry. This colour 
 will pierce the thickest double milled cloth manu- 
 factured. 
 
 Bark Yellow on Flannel. 60 lbs. 
 Put 7 lbs citron, or yellow oak bark, into a bag 
 made of thin cotton cloth ; allow it to remain in the 
 kettle at 196 deg. ; cool a little, and put in a littl© 
 more than a quart " No. 5 tin liquor," (gee page 53,) 
 3 lbs. alum, and 2 lbs. cream of tartar ; enter the 
 goods, and turn constantly until deep enough. The 
 colour will be rather brighter by not boiling the 
 bark. If a very deep yellow is wanted, the tartar 
 may be dispensed with, as it does not assist in pro- 
 ducing it, but promotes that delicate green shade of 
 yellow so generally admired and approved. 
 
 Scarlet Barree. 60 Ihs, Flannel. 
 Dye the flannel a yellow, as abovementioned. — 
 
64 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 Boil three hours in 12 lbs. American alum, 4 lbs. 
 red tartar, and 2 pints " No. 5 tin liquor," (seepage 
 53 ;) turn at intervals during the process ; cool, take 
 out and rinse. Put 20 lbs. mungeete into a kettle of 
 clean water ; enter the goods, get on a fire, and be- 
 gin to turn when the water is warm; keep it in 90 
 minutes, without boiling ; take out, rinse, and dry 
 the most convenient way. 
 
 Royal Purple on goods made of cotton &l wool. 60 lbs. 
 In such goods the warp is generally cotton. Boil 
 7 lbs. ground logwood, and 2 lbs. alum ; cool the 
 liquor with clean water, rake up well, enter the 
 goods, turning carefully ; boil two hours ; cool to 
 100 deg. take out, and put in 12 oz. " No. 4 tin 
 liquor," (see page 53 ;) rake up, turn twenty min- 
 utes, heat to 150 deg.; take out, and rinse well in 
 clean water. Boil 1 lb. Malaga sumac in 2 galls, 
 of water, and put it into a large tub of cold water ; 
 steep the goods in it one hour ; then dissolve 2 lbs. 
 alum in 1 gall, hot water, and put it into a large tub 
 of cold water, and give the goods three or four turns 
 in that ; then rinse slightly in cold water. Boil 3 
 lbs. logwood in 3 galls, water, and put it into a large 
 tub of cold water ; handle the goods fifteen or twen- 
 ty minutes, and take out; dissolve 1 lb. alum in hot 
 water, and give the goods three or four turns ; take 
 out, rinse well, and dry the most convenient way. 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 65 
 
 Peachwood Red. CO lbs. Flannel. 
 
 Into a suitable kettle of boiling water, put lOi lbs. 
 English alum, 2 lbs. red tartar, and 1 lb. sulphate of 
 copper pulv. When these are dissolved, cool and 
 enter the goods ; turn for fifteen minutes, then sink 
 the flannel in the liquor, to boil ; boil three hours, 
 turning every fifteen minutes ; take out, and allow 
 the goods to remain two or three days in a large tub 
 or basket to sour. (The goods will take a better 
 colour, and do with less peachwood, than if dyed the 
 next day.) It should be well covered, lest some 
 parts become dry. It should be slightly rinsed. — 
 Boil 24 lbs. good peachwood twenty minutes ; cool 
 to ] 90 deg., rake up, enter the flannel, and turn it 
 one hour, (but do not allow it to boil.) If not deep 
 enough, use more peachwood. Rinse, and done. 
 
 If thjs flannel has a cotton warp, boil 6 lbs. Sicily 
 sumac, and put into a tub of cold water; steep the 
 flannel in it 6 hoArs ; put 6 lbs. dissolved alum into 
 another tub of cold water; handle fifteen minutes, 
 then use the strength of 10 lbs. boiled peachwood 
 in cold water, and handle in it fifteen minutes ; rinse 
 and done. 
 
 Deep Green. 60 lbs. Worsted or Flannel. 
 Get on a suitable kettle of boiling water ; if for 
 flannel, put 45 lbs. ground fustic loose in the kettle ; 
 if for worsted, put it into two large bags; put in al- 
 so 6 lbs. alum ; boil thirty minutes, and cool ; put in 
 
 6* 
 
QO Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 3 pints sulphate of indigo, rake up and enter the 
 goods; turn carefully fifteen minutes, get on the 
 fire, and boil ninety minutes, turning occasionally ; 
 cool, and take out the goods. If not blue enough, 
 use one pint more sulphate of indigo ; enter and 
 turn carefully until deep enough. Rinse in cold 
 water, and dry in a warm room. 
 
 Ught Cinnamon Brown. 20 lbs. Woollen Goods. 
 
 Suppose the goods to be Circassian. Boil 6 lbs. 
 ground fustic, 2 lbs. camwood, 2 oz. cudbierd, and 
 1 lb. pulverized red tartar, fifteen minutes; cool, 
 rake up well, and enter the goods ; boil and turn 
 ninety minutes; cool to 150 degrees, and put in 8 
 drachms of copperas, and a table spoonful of sul- 
 phate of indigo; rake up, enter the goods, and han- 
 dle fifteen minutes ; rinse and dry. 
 
 Light Buff. CO lbs. Worsted or Woven Cloth. 
 Into a convenient kettle of boiling water, put 20 
 oz. Venice sumac, (young fustic,) and 1 lb. carbo- 
 nate of soda, and allow it to boil fifteen minutes; — 
 then put in 1 oz. pulverized cochineal, and 12 oz. 
 " No. 3 tin liquor," (see page 53 ;) cool to 150deg. 
 rake up well, enter the goods, and turn carefully 20 
 minutes ; boil one hour, and take out. If short of 
 yellow, use a little more young fustic ; if short of 
 red, use a httle more cochineal. If found necessary 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 67 
 
 to use the extra drugs, the liquor must be boiled, 
 and then cooled, handling aa above. Rinse well, 
 and dry the most convenient way. 
 
 Blue Black. 30 lbs, Circassian. 
 Into a suitable kettle of boiling water, put 12 oz. 
 copperas, 2 oz, alum, 4 oz. red tartar, and 4 oz sul- 
 phate of copper, and boil in that one hour; take 
 out, and list it smoothly, and put it to drain for 12 
 hours. Boil 3i lbs. ground logwood and 4 oz. pul- 
 verized red tartar ten minutes, and cool ; enter the 
 goods, boil and turn one hour, rinse and dry. If 
 not deep enough, use more logwood in the next col- 
 ouring. 
 
 Crimson. 10 lbs. Bombazine, 
 Let the goods be well cleansed ; then boil in a 
 copper kettle, 3 lbs. good cudbierd : cool, enter the 
 ^ goods, and turn about thirty minutes, while the 
 liquor is nearly boiling; cool, and take out. If it 
 inclines too much on the beet-root, blue, or crimson 
 shade, put a table-spoonful of oil vitriol into a tub 
 of cold water, and give it a few turns in that ; it will 
 redden k to a nice crimson. If the acid be put into 
 warm water, and the goods handled in that, the col- 
 our will be dull and blind. Rinse, and dry the most 
 convenient way. By this method, the silk will be 
 of as good a crimson as the woollen part. 
 
68 Molomj on Dyeing. 
 
 Puce Colour. 20 lis. Bombazine. 
 Boil the goods three hours, in 4 lbs. alum, and 4 
 oz. sulphate of copper, turning carefully all the while ; 
 cool the liquor, take out the goods, rinse well in cold 
 water; boil 2 lbs. ground peachwood, and 2 lbs. 
 ground logwood; enter the pieces, turn carefully, 
 commence boiling, and continue forty-five minutes, 
 and take out. If not red enough, use more peach- 
 wood ; if not blue enough, use more logwood. Rinse 
 and dry. 
 
 A Greenish Slate. 40 lis. Worsted. 
 This colour is termed in England a " Glove Drab." 
 Pat into a suitable kettle of boiling water, 20 oz. 
 ground logwood, 3 oz. sumac, and 4 oz. ground fus- 
 tic, and boil these drugs twenty minutes ; then cool 
 to 160 deg. Putin 4 oz. copperas, and one table- 
 spoonful of oil vitriol ; rake up, enter the worsted, 
 and give it 8 or 9 turns ; get on the fire, and heat to 
 ISO deg. (but do not allow it to boil;) continue the 
 process one hour. If not green enough, takeout, 
 and put in a little more fustic; if not blue enough, 
 use a little more logwood and sumac. Rinse in cold 
 vfater, and dry. Some may think it imprudent to 
 use oil vitriol to this colour ; but without it the shade 
 will be less lively and delicate, and less et^enly dyed. 
 
 Chocolate. 60 ihs. Worsted. 
 Boil 3^ lbs. fustic and 12 oz. ground logwood iif- 
 
JMolony on Dyeing, 69 
 
 teen minutes ; then cool a little, and put in 1 lb. red 
 tartar pulv., and 2 lbs. cudbierd, wet in 3 or 4 pints 
 of warm water ; rake up, enter and turn carefully 
 for fifteen minutes ; boil ninety minutes, and turn a? 
 often as once in five minutes ; hang the worsted on 
 the bearers, (which should be placed over the kettle.) 
 Dissolve 8 oz. copperas, and cool ; rake up, enter 
 the worsted, and turn carefully fifteen minutes, then 
 heat to 170 deg., turn every five minutes, and con- 
 tinue the process one hour; cool the liquor, take 
 out the worsted, rinse, and dry the most convenient 
 way. If this colour is not strong enough, a larger 
 quantity of drugs may be used, in the same propor- 
 tions. 
 
 Chemical Bottle Green, 100 lbs. Cloth. 
 Get a convenient sized kettle of boiling water, and 
 put in 60 lbs. chipped fustic and 10 lbs. alum, and 
 allow it to boil one hour, then cool the liquor to 160 
 deg., and put in 2 qts. sulphate of indigo, rake up 
 well, enter the cloth, and commence wynching. If 
 the cloth be very thick, boil three hours. For flan- 
 nel one hour's boiling is sufficient. If not blue 
 enough, take out the cloth, add more chjmic or sul- 
 phate of indigo. Rake up well, enter the goods, and 
 boil till blue enough ; cool the liquor, take out the 
 cloth, rinse in a running stream, or in a fulling-mill. 
 Then put into boiling water, 7 lbs. logwood and 7 
 lbs fustic, and boil thirty minutes ; then put in 1 lb» 
 
70 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 copperas; rake up well, cool the liquor, and enter ; 
 boil, and spread on the wynch, until deep enough. 
 If not dark enough, more copperas and logwood may 
 be added. Ptinse well, and dry in tenters. 
 
 Method of Cleansing Woollen Cloths fo?' Dyeing 
 Take some fuller's earth, and let it perfectly dry 
 in a stove or warm room ; put it into a large tub, 
 and wet with hot water. If perfectly dry, it will dis- 
 solve. Dampen the cloth by sprinkling with a little 
 cold urine and water; then sprinkle it moderately 
 thick with the earth, (G or 7 times before wetting, is 
 sufficient;) cleanse in the fulling-mill. 
 
 Middling Green. CO Ihs. Flannel. 
 Put 30 lbs. good fustic and 6 lbs. alum, into a 
 kettle of boiling water, and boil thirty minutes; then 
 add a quart of sulphate of indigo ; cool to IGO deg., 
 and enter the flannel ; keep the flannel well spread 
 on the wynch, and boil one hour, turning constant- 
 ly. If not blue enough, take it out, cool the liquor, 
 and put in some more sulphate of indigo, and handle 
 the flannel as abovementioned, until deep enough. 
 Take out, and spread on a wooden horse, and cool 
 at its full width. Rinse in cold water, and dry as 
 quickly as possible. If chemical green on woollen 
 goods be left too long without drying, the colour will 
 become uneven. 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 7 1 
 
 Pea Green. 30 lbs. Worsted. 
 Into a kettle of boiling water, put 2 lbs. ground 
 fustic, and 2 lbs. alum, and allow it to boil thirty 
 minutes; then cool to 140 deg. and put in 1 lb. sul- 
 phuric acid, and a table-spoonful of sulphate of in- 
 digo ', rake up well, enter the worsted, and turn it 
 very briskly for fifteen minutes ; get on a fire and 
 heat to 170 deg. (which should not be exceeded in 
 dyeing a light pea green.) If not quite blue enough, 
 take out the worsted, cool theUquor to 140 deg. and 
 put in a little more sulphate of indigo. It may be 
 necessary to use a little more fustic; in that case, 
 the kettle should be made to boil, and then be cool- 
 ed to 140 deg. ; then use the extra sulph. of indigo, 
 and enter the worsted. It may be necessary to heat 
 the liquor to a higher degree. For this colour the 
 worsted should be constantly turned, until it comes 
 to a conclusion. This is the method I have pursued 
 for several years, and I have found it to be the best 
 method of producing a delicate even colour. When 
 the dying process is finished, rinse well m cold wa- 
 ter, and dry as quickly as possible. 
 
 General Remarks on Worsted Dyeing. 
 In dyeing drabs of any shade on worsted, it is very 
 important that the dyeing drugs be previously boiled 
 or scalded, viz. fustic, ebony, logwood, cudbierd, ar- 
 chill, sumac, tartar, and copperas. In drab dyeing 
 on worsted, or any woven goods, as stuffs, merinoe«, 
 
72 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 or milled cloths, the heat should not exceed 150 degv 
 when the goods are entered ; and not more than 
 half the quantity of drugs necessary to produce the 
 colour, should be put in at one time, lest the colour 
 be uneven. 
 
 The greatest trouble met with by pattern dyers, is 
 occasioned by being too liberal in using drugs; and 
 if used more sparingly, they would not be so often 
 disappointed. 
 
 By putting ground fustic into a drab kettle, with- 
 out having been previously boiled or scalded, it will 
 continue to yield its strength for so long a time, that 
 the most careful workman may be deceived ; and 
 more particularly so, if he cannot finish the shade 
 very quickly. Ebony is not so uncertain, if used 
 without previous boiling or scalding, as it yields its 
 strength quicker. Logwood is tedious in yielding 
 its strength. In dyeing drab worsted, a considera- 
 ble quantity of red tartar is necessary, to make the 
 colours even. In changing the shades, if a bright 
 red tinge be wanted, camwood will produce it ; if 
 not red enough, and a dull shade be wanted, madder 
 is best ; if wanted on the blueish red, cudbierd will 
 best promote it. If necessary to green the shade 
 with copperas, use fustic very sparingly, as in that 
 case, the drab is short of fustic. When the copperas 
 is put in, add a little, and it will yield its strength. 
 Logwood will likewise yield its strength, when used 
 with copperas ; (I mean in a copperas liquor, on 
 woollen goods of any description.) Some very nice, 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 73 
 
 delicate shades of green drabs, are blued with sul- 
 phate of indigo, instead of copperas : in that case, it 
 should be refined sulphate, as no other is fit to use 
 with chemical drabs. It will work well with ebony, 
 fustic, logwood or copperas in drab dyeing, without 
 injuring either drugs. Light brown olive, or light 
 green olive, should be saddened very cool, not ex- 
 ceeding 120 deg. when the goods are first put in, or 
 the goods will darken unevenly. The heat should 
 be obtained by degrees, as the colour may require, 
 and more particularly so in cloth dyeing. In sad- 
 dening worsted, or fulled cloth, dyed brown, if ne- 
 cessary to use copperas, it should be previously dis- 
 solved in hot water, and enough of the liquor run 
 off to allow that in the kettle to be cooled to 90 dag. 
 Any brown, dyed with camwood and fustic, if it hap- 
 pen to be too red from excess of camwood, is almost 
 a hopeless case. If the colour is to be matched ex- 
 actly, the best method I have ever found, in such a 
 case, is to sadden with sulphate of indigo, instead of 
 copperas. It will counteract the red, three shades 
 at least, more than copperas will. All cloths dyed 
 colours which require boiling, should be boiled three 
 hours or more, (particularly if made of fine wool,) 
 and made thick in the fulling mill ; otherwise it will 
 not be so well grounded. 
 
 Slate Colour. 60 lbs. Worsted. 
 For a very handsome blue slate, boil 24 oz. ground 
 7 
 
74 JMolony on Dyeing. 
 
 Campeachy logwood ten minutes ; then add 3 oz. 
 dissolved copperas and 4 oz. cream of tartar ; cool 
 to 160 deg. rake up well ; enter the worsted and 
 turn carefully for ten or fifteen minutes ; get on a 
 brisk fire, and boil one hour, turning every five min- 
 utes. If not blue and dark enough, cool and take 
 out the worsted ; then add more logwood and cop- 
 peras in proportion to the shade wanted. Com- 
 mence, and continue the process till dark enough. 
 If a slight shade of red is wanted, it can be obtained 
 by using some more cream of tartar, and a little cud- 
 bierd. (Cudbierd will do its duty, even if used in a 
 liquor for dyeing black.) Handle till deep enough. 
 Any shade of slate can be produced by pursuing the 
 above method, by adding or diminishing the drugs. 
 Dry the most convenient way. 
 
 Another Method of Dyeing Slate. 100 lbs. Stocking 
 Worsted. 
 Put 5 lbs. ground logwood into a large hair seive, 
 then put it over a large tub, and pour 30 or 40 galls, 
 boihng water upon it; take out the clear liquor into 
 a large kettle ; put in 8 oz. alum ; when it is at 180 
 deg. put in 2 oz. sulphate of copper; rake up well, 
 enter the worsted, and turn it for twenty min- 
 utes ; boil one hour ; cool, and take out the worsted 
 and cool it. Put in the strength of 3 lbs. more log- 
 wood, 2 oz. sulphate of copper, and soap enough to 
 make the lather stand well on its surface when raked 
 
J\Iolony on Dyeing. 75 
 
 up. Recommence, turn fifteen minutes, then boil, 
 and turn thirty minutes ; take out, rinse in luke warm 
 water, and dry in a warm room. Add or diminish 
 the dye-stuffs, according to the shade wanted. — 
 Slates dyed as above, will stand soap washing near- 
 ly as well as blue. 
 
 Royal Blue, 30 Ihs. Worsted^ or Woven Woollens. 
 
 Boil the goods three hours in 5 lbs. alum, and 8 
 oz. red tartar. Put 20 lbs. of copperas into a kettle 
 of clean water at 120 deg.; enter the worsted, and 
 turn well for fifteen minutes ; take out, and rinse 
 well in a running stream. Get another kettle of wa- 
 ter to 140 deg. and put in 5 lbs. of pearlash, turn 
 the worsted in that ten minutes ; rinse slightly in 
 cold water, and return it to the copperas, handling 
 as before from one kettle to the other till you get a 
 sufficient quantity of copperas on the goods; which 
 can be ascertained by trying a small quantity in a 
 pot at 160 deg. with a little prussiate of potash, afid 
 then adding a few drops sulphuric acid. If neces- 
 sary to add more copperas, use from one-fourth to 
 one-half as much as before; enter the goods, turn 
 a few minutes, and heat to 180 deg. handle fifteen 
 minutes, rinse, and return from one liquor to the 
 other as before. If the pearlash be not strong 
 enough, add more. Get on a kettle of clean soft 
 water, and heat to 140 deg. Dissolve 38 oz. of 
 
76 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 prussiate of potash, and put into it ; enter the goods, 
 and handle fifteen minutes ; then take out, and put 
 in as much oil vitriol as will barely change the prus- 
 siate to a greenish colour; enter the goods, and turn 
 carefully twenty minutes, and heat to 170 deg. If 
 the liquor looks too green, use a little more oil vit- 
 riol. Let the goods remain thirty minutes, then 
 take out, cool, and enter again. Take out again in 
 thirty minutes, rinse, and dry in the open air, if the 
 weather will permit. 
 
 Observations. — When I left England, in 1829^ I 
 knew of but two dyers who were masters of this col- 
 our, viz. Messrs. Melon &l Almon, of Wakefield. I 
 have found out this method by my own trials in this 
 country ; and by it, the shade may be dyed as light 
 or as deep as wanted. This is the only colour on 
 woollen goods in England, which I was not in the 
 habit of dyeing, and I think it probable that some 
 other dyers may be acquainted with a quicker, and 
 perhaps cheaper method of producing it; but if my 
 directions be followed, the workman will not be dis- 
 appointed in producing a lively blue. I have seen 
 several professors of the colour, some English, some 
 French, some Dutch, who have left Europe within 
 two years, who have failed of producing as good a 
 colour, while their methods were more tedious and 
 expensive than mine : yet I am of opinion, that it 
 can be, and is done in an easier and better method 
 than I am in possession of at present. 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 77 
 
 SILK DYEING. 
 
 The most certain method of taking Gum out of Silk. 
 
 For 20 lbs. silk, use 4 lbs. soap made of whale oil, 
 or if that cannot be obtained, use 4 lbs. hard brown 
 soap, cut finely, and dissolved in a kettle of water 
 near boiling heat. (The standard is 190 deg. Fah- 
 renheit.) Put the silk on round poles, and enter it 
 in the kettle; raise and low^er it for twenty-five min- 
 utes, and then turn it on the poles, and tend the same 
 way for twenty-five minutes more ; take out, and 
 wring at the post, and wash the suds from it with 
 cold water; then put a slight twist in it, and put 10 
 lbs. on 7 cords of cotton rope; tie the ends of the 
 cords together, and put the silk into a bag made of 
 thin linen, or coarse cotton cloth. Empty the ket- 
 tle of suds, and fill it with water. Boil 4 lbs. white 
 hard soap cut finely, and rake up w^eli ; put in the 
 bag of silk, and boil it two hours ; then rinse in luke- 
 warm water, to take out the suds. It is then fit for 
 dyeing. 
 
 If this silk is to be made white, the method is as 
 follows : — Put some finely ground indigo into some 
 clean soft water ; put the silk on the poles, and make 
 up a lather of white hard soap, and bring it to scald- 
 ing heat, and put in a small quantity of the indigo 
 water to blue it. Be careful not to put in too much 
 blueing at a time. If you wish for a tinge of red, 
 put a few drops of archill into the same liquor. — 
 Wring at the post, and hang it in the sulphur house, 
 using 3 lbs. sulphur in an iron pot. Allow it to re- 
 
78 Molony on Dyeing 
 
 main twelve or fourteen hours. In case the silk be 
 not blue enough for your pattern, put a small quan- 
 tity of the Ci^ar indigo water into cold water, (use it 
 cautiously) If the water be a little hard, it will blue 
 the silk as much as two shades without the indigo 
 water. If you want a French gray, use indigo water 
 to pattern. If silk is blued after being sulphured, it 
 must be done in cold water, whatever the shade may 
 be. 
 
 A Sulphur Mouse 
 Should be 7 yards long, and 2 yards wide, made per- 
 fectly tight, having a valve at the top to let off a 
 small portion of the gas, to prevent damaging the 
 goods, or making them tender. 
 
 For preparing Annoita. 
 Boil 6 lbs. annotta thirty minutes, in 12 or 14 galls. 
 of water, with 7 lbs. pearlash in it. This method 
 will answer for silk or cotton. 
 
 The sirtngth of Alum Mcrdantsfor Skein Silk, 
 Should be generally 4 deg. on Twaddle's Hydrome- 
 ter ; if intended for piece silk, it should be from 6 to 
 8 on the above scale. Skein silk should generally 
 be allowed three hours, at least, in the alum mordant, 
 blue black excepted, for which thirty minutes are 
 sufficient. 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 79 
 
 III Dyeing Copper Crimson, 
 Either on piece or skein silk, the mordant should 
 stand from 6 to 8 deg. (Twad.) and not ex'jeed 8 
 deg,for any colour on any kind of silk. It may not be 
 convenient in piece silk dyeing, to allow it three or 
 four hours in the alum mordant, which is the reason 
 why it should be made stronger for woven silks than 
 for skeins. 
 
 At the above strength, if silk remain even four 
 days, it wiU not be injured or prevented from taking 
 any colour which requires a previous alum prepara- 
 tion. It is very important in silk dyeing, when alum 
 is dissolved in boiling water, to allow it to be quite 
 cool before entering the silk ; otherwise it will de- 
 prive the silk of its lustre and beauty, and leave it 
 but little handsomer than cotton. 
 
 To prepare Alum Mordant for all Colours, Cochineal 
 Crimson excepted. 
 
 Suppose the tub to be used, to contain SO galls : 
 use about 25 or 30 lbs. American alum, in case of 
 not having No. 1, Twaddle's Hydrometer. 
 
 To make a sirong Iron ^Mordant for Prussian Blue, on 
 
 Silk or Cotton. 
 
 Take 40 lbs. single aquafortis, and add to it 10 
 
 galls, of cold water; then add, by degrees, 5 lbs. of 
 
 turnings of malleable or very thin hoop iron ; also, 
 
80 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 add by degrees about 3 lbs. of copperas. (Do not 
 feed it too quick, as much gas would waste by so 
 doing.) It will probably require eight or ten hours 
 to consume that quantity of iron. When all the iron 
 is taken into solution, put about half the quantity in- 
 to 60 galls, of water; rake up well, and enter the 
 goods, handling twenty minutes or more, according 
 to the shade required. If the iron liquor, when raked 
 up, stands at 4 Twaddle, it is very strong. When a 
 quantity of silk or cotton is prepared in this solution, 
 and it is necessary to keep it strong, add some of 
 the prepared nitrate of iron. When the mordant is 
 weak, it may be necessary to wring out the goods, 
 cool, and enter again. 
 
 To prepense Safflour. 
 Put the safflour into a bag, and wash it by beetling 
 in cold water, to take out the yellow colouring mat- 
 ter. The brightness of the colour depends much on 
 cleansing it properly. When sufficiently cleansed, 
 there will be an appearance of yellow in the water 
 which is pressed from the bag. Take the safflour 
 from the bag, and dissolve 2 oz. pearlash to each lb. 
 ofsafflour ; add the dissolved pearlash, and stir well 
 for ten minutes, and allow it to soak in the same three 
 hours ; then squeeze out, and save the liquor. Put 
 the safflour into another tub of water, and for each 
 pound add 1 oz. of pearlash, dissolved as before. — 
 This is called the ' second bleeding.' Stir it well 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 81 
 
 ten minutes, and squeeze out the safflour. If the 
 colouring matter is thoroughly extracted, the safflour 
 will be colourless. If strength still remain, soak it 
 as before, only use less pearlash. 
 
 Skein Silk 
 Is generally dyed on very smooth, thin sticks, and 
 divided into separate heads on each stick, (each head 
 contains generally about 4 oz.) and wrung on a 
 dyer's post. (See description in a former article.) 
 
 Method of Dyeing Pink mth Safflour. 10 lbs. Cotton. 
 This colour is never dyed as deep on cotton, as 
 when wanted to dye silk with. Let the safflour be 
 prepared according to the directions, (see page 80.) 
 Take a tub ofconvenient size, and put in the strength 
 of 5 or 6 lbs. safflour, and put in some water ; then 
 put in about half a pint of oil vitriol, and turn the 
 cotton in that liquor about an hour. Take it out, 
 and put it into a tub of clean cold water. It will be 
 a very high rose pink. Let it lie in the water, till it 
 is wanted to dye pink on silk. Put about 5 lbs. 
 more cotton into the liquor, to get all the strength 
 of the safflour, as it is a very dear article ; and put 
 in a little sulphuric acid, that the strength may be 
 all extracted. The cotton may not be carefully 
 turned, as the silk is to be coloured by extracting 
 the colour from the cotton. 
 
82 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 Method of Dyeing Pink with Safflour, on Silk. 
 
 If a blue shade of pink be wanted, use a little ar- 
 chill in a very weak soap lather, in water at about 
 ] 00 deg. ; if a very deep shade, and a shade of blue, 
 use as much archill as will dye the silk a light peach- 
 blossom or lilac, and in that case the water may be 
 hotter. Turn the silk about ten minutes. If the 
 tub of hot water should contain 60 gallons, 1 oz. of 
 white hard soap is sufficient. (By using too much 
 soap, the archill will not yield its strength ; and if 
 no soap be use, the archill will be uneven on the 
 silk.) It need not be rinsed from the archill liquor. 
 Extract the colour from the pink cotton, by using a 
 little pearlash in the bath of cold water. Add as 
 much tartaric acid as will turn the liquor to a crim- 
 son hue; then turn or handle the silk till deep enough 
 of colour. If necessary, use more of the safflour 
 liquor. When deep enough, use a little cream of 
 tartar in lukewarm water, and dry, without rinsing, 
 in a warm room. If the colour should be too blue, 
 have the water at 140 deg. and put in some more 
 cream of tartar; it will make the colour redder. — 
 It is not necessary to use archill for any pink, unless 
 a blue shade is wanted. 
 
 If the silk is not to be dyed to pattern, it is a great 
 saving to use archill ; and if too much be not used, 
 the colour will be much more delicate and handsome. 
 
 Geranium on Silk. 10 lbs. 
 In dying cochineal colours on silk with a tin li- 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 83 
 
 quor, (for 10 lbs. fine silk,) the tubs should be three 
 feet deep, in a circular form, like a bell ; the bottom 
 about nine inches diameter, and the top about twen- 
 ty inches. The tub should be made of white pine 
 wood. Put in some clean water at 120 deg.; then 
 put in 1 pint No. 1 tin liquor, (see page 54 ;) rake 
 up well, and allow it to settle thirty minutes ; put in 
 the silk, and turn it smoothly and carefully (so as not 
 to disturb the bottom) about fifteen minutes ; then 
 turn every ten or fifteen minutes, for about two 
 hours. Squeeze it out ; then put 24 oz. good ground 
 cochineal into the bottom of the tub, fill with clean 
 boiling water, rake up, and cover it with a cover 
 made to fit, and allow it to settle thirty minutes. — 
 Put in the silk, and turn it constantly one hour ; then 
 turn every fifteen minutes for three hours. Then 
 sink the silk under the liquor, (but not so as to touch 
 the bottom.) When it has been in twelve hours, 
 take out, wring at the post, and dry in a warm room. 
 Do not rinse it, as it will make it uneven to a real 
 certainty. 
 
 Fine Cochineal Scai'Iet. 10 lbs. Silk. 
 Prepare 20 oz. good annotta, as directed on page 
 78, and put it into a kettle of water at 170 deg., ad- 
 ding about 4 oz. white hard soap ; handle the silk 
 in thishquor about twenty minutes, (If the annotta 
 is made hotter than 170, it w^ill not produce as full a 
 colour, from the same quantity.) Rinse in lukewarm 
 
S4 JHolony on Dyeing 
 
 water, to get out the suds. Put in a pint and a half 
 tin h'quor No. 1, (see page 54.) Fill with water at 
 120 deg., rake up well, and let it settle thirty minutes. 
 Put in the silk and turn it carefully about twenty 
 minutes, then a turn every ten minutes for two 
 hours. Squeeze it out ; then put 30 oz. of good 
 ground cochineal into the bell tub, fill it with clean 
 boiling water, rake up, and allow it thirty minutes to 
 settle. Enter the silk, and turn carefully and con- 
 f-tantly one hour, (being careful not to disturb the 
 bottom ;) then turn every ten minutes for three hours. 
 Take out, wring, and dry in a warm room. 
 
 The sizes I have mentioned for the tubs, are large 
 enough for 15 lbs. spun silk, and nearly large enough 
 for 15 lbs. long reeled sewing silk. 
 
 Modena Crimson. 10 lbs. Silk . 
 Fill the bell tub with water at 100 deg. within 8 
 inches of the top ; then put in a pint and a half No. 
 1 tin liquor, (see page 54 ;) rake up and allow it 
 thirty minutes to settle. Enter the silk, and turn 
 (so as not to disturb the sediment,) about thirty 
 minutes ; then give it a turn every ten minutes for 
 three hours. Take it out, and put thirty oz. good 
 ground cochineal into another bell, and fill with 
 boiling water; rake up well, and allow thirty min- 
 utes to settle ; enter the silk, and turn it constantly 
 for one hour ; then give it a turn every ten minutes 
 for three hours. Sink it in the liquor for eight or 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 85 
 
 ten hours, (but not so as to touch the bottom;) then 
 take out. Get a large tub of cold water, and put in 
 8 galls, of the cochineal liquor, (in which the silk 
 was dyed.) Turn the silk carefully in that for one 
 hour; then if the colour is not blue enough, take out 
 the silk, and empty some of the liquor from the 
 large tub, and add some more cold water ; recom- 
 mence, and turn in it until blue enough. In this 
 method of dyeing, cold water will blue the silk more 
 than twenty shades. The use of the old cochineal 
 liquor is to prevent unevenness in blueing. Dyers 
 who are unacquainted with this colour, will think it 
 very strange that cold water will blue it, while it will 
 not blue woollen goods of any description, which 
 are dyed in the same dye-stuffs. Some dyers use a 
 tub of cold water to blue geranium ; but if they do, 
 they must use at least one half the almost-spent 
 cochineal liquor, otherwise the colour would not 
 contrast much with the crimson. I do not disap- 
 prove of blueing a geranium a little, if done as I 
 have directed; that is, if a slight blue shade be wan- 
 ted, put in about a gallon of the spirit liquor in 
 which the silk was prepared, with the almost-spent 
 cochineal liquor, and cold water in the large tub. — 
 I do not know a more dangerous colour to a young 
 dyer, than blueing modena crimson or geranium. — 
 If wove silk be dyed geranium, crimson, or scarlet, 
 it must not reach the bottom of the sj>irit tub, or the 
 cochineal tub; if it does, the colour will be dull and 
 blind. 
 
 8 
 
86 J\Iolony on Dyeing, 
 
 Copper Crimson, 10 Ihs. Silk. 
 
 Steep the silk four hours in a cold alum mordant 
 at 8 deg. No. 1 Twaddle's Hydrometer; then rinse 
 very well in a running stream, or in a large quantity 
 of water; then boil 2h lbs. cochineal, 5 oz. pulv. 
 Aleppo galls, and 2 oz. cream of tartar ; boil half 
 an hour, cool to 170 deg.; rake up well, enter the 
 silk, and turn it constantly and carefully one hour. 
 Heat the liquor to 196 deg. (but not boil ;) continue 
 the process in the cochineal from the commence- 
 ment to the conclusion, about two hours. Rinse 
 well in cold water, and dry the most convenient way. 
 
 JVote, — By dyeing the silk a light buff, with pre- 
 pared annotta and soap, it will save a little cochi- 
 neal. Rinse, and begin as though it had not passed 
 through the annotta. By boiling a weak barwood 
 liquor, and handling in the clear, it will save a little 
 cochineal. I should prefer doing without annotta 
 or barwood, to using too much of either. 
 
 Method of setting a liquor for Dyeing Lavender on Silk. 
 Boil 14 lbs. good chipped logwood three or four 
 hours ; strain off the clear Irquor into a tub contain- 
 ing 60 gallons. Put 30 lbs. muriatic acid and 15 
 lbs. double nitric acid, into a large stone ware pot. 
 Then melt 3 lbs. of grain tin, and pour it slowly in- 
 to a tub of water to make it light. Empty the water, 
 and dry the tin in a warm dry room, and add it by 
 degrees to the acids till it is all used, adding also to 
 
Molony on Dyeing, 87 
 
 the acids 4 oz. sal. ammoniac. Add this tin liquor 
 to the logwood liquor, and rake up occasionally for 
 three hours. Next day it will be fit for use. Then 
 dip the silk, and handle smoothly till deep enough 
 in colour ; then blue it to pattern in refined sulphate 
 of indigo, or chymic ; rinse in cold water, and return 
 the liquor back to the larn:e tub again, (i. e. if you 
 take the liquor from the large tub to dye in.) Dry 
 in a warm room. This quantity of lavender liquor 
 will dye 500 lbs. silk. 
 
 N. B. The refined sulphate of indigo must be 
 used in the same liquor in which the silk was dyed. 
 
 Imperial Blacky on Silk in the gum. 10 lbs. 
 Wet the silk io warm water, and wring it at the 
 dyer's post. Boil 30 lbs. Sicily sumac ; put half a 
 pint of nitrate of iron into a sufficient quantity of 
 water to turn the silk in 5 go 9 turns ; put it into the 
 sumac ; go 7 turns, and sink the silk in the boiling 
 sumac for twelve hours. Then take out, and give 7 
 turns in a weak alum mordant ; cool, and rinse in 
 cold water. Dissolve 12 oz. prussiate of potash in 
 hot water ; add a little more than half a pint muriat- 
 ic acid, and put it into a tub of water at 100 deg. ; 
 give the silk 9 turns in it, and rinse in cold water. — 
 Then put about 6 oz. boiled logwood, and 2 oz. dis- 
 solved copperas, into a tub of cold water, and give 
 the silk 3 turns in it. Rinse in cold water, wring up, 
 even it well, and dry in the open air. 
 
88 Molony on Dyeing 
 
 P. S. If you want this colour to have a strong 
 shade of blue, give the silk a run or dip in a weak 
 alum mordant ; rinse, and then use the logwood. 
 
 Fast Magazine Blue. 10 lbs. Silk. 
 
 When the silk is boiled for dyeing, boil 15 lbs. of 
 good archill, and cool the liquor to 170 deg.; enter 
 the silk, and turn it for thirty minutes ; take out, 
 wring at the post, and shake it well. Put 12 oz, 
 silk on a stick, and turn it in the woad vat for silk, 
 until blue enough ; then wring out, and put it into 
 cold water to prevent unevenness. Rinse well in the 
 river, and wring at the post. Make a strong lather 
 of white soap in cold water, and use some dissolved 
 pearlash in it. Handle the silk in it fifteen minutes. 
 If too red, use more pearlash ; if too blue, use more 
 soap. Wring very even, and dry in a room not very 
 hot. 
 
 P. S. The woad vat may be cold, but should not 
 exceed 90 deg. for this colour. 
 
 Fast Lavender. 
 Dye a very light blue ; then steep four hours in a 
 strong alum mordant ; rinse well in cold water. — 
 Boil 8 drachms of cochineal for each lb. of silk, cool 
 the liquor to 190 deg., and continue the process at 
 that heat one hour, or until red enough. It may be 
 necessary to use a little more cochineal. Fast violet 
 
I 
 
 Molony on Dyeing. 89 
 
 can be done in the same way, by using more cochi- 
 neal ; say 1 oz. to each pound of silk ; and making 
 it a deeper blue in the vat. Rinse well, dry, an(i 
 done. 
 
 Gold Colour. 10 lbs. Silk. 
 
 Dye the silk a light buff, with prepared annotta, 
 (see page 78,) in a soap lather at 120 deg. Rinse 
 well in warm water, for fear the alkali would decom- 
 pose the alum. Turn the silk into the alum prepar- 
 ation, and let it remain three hours; rinse well in 
 cold water. Boil 20 lbs. of ^ood straw weld, and 4 
 oz. pearlash, for thirty minutes ; then strain off the 
 clear liquor, and make up a tub with half this liquor 
 and the same quantity of scalding water. Handle 
 fifteen minutes, then turn the silk in a strong soap 
 lather at 90 deg., wring up light, and dry in a warm 
 room. 
 
 Leghorn on Silk. 
 
 Use a very small quantity of prepared annotta (see 
 page 78,) and a very little fustic liquor, in lukewarm 
 water. Turn the silk very briskly and smootfTly. — 
 If not yellow enough, use a little more fustic ; if not 
 red enough, use a little more annotta. Wring and 
 dry in a warm room. 
 
 8* 
 
90 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 Buff 
 
 Is dyed with a little prepared annotta in a warm 
 soap lather, made of white hard soap. The lather 
 for this buff should be very strong, or the colour will 
 not be clear. 
 
 P. S. These receipts will answer for wove or 
 skem silks. 
 
 Spanish Fly. 10 lbs. Silk. 
 
 Take the strength of 7 lbs. green ebony wood ground 
 and use it in water at 140 deg.; put in also some 
 
 inrefined sulphate of indigo ; turn the silk smoothly 
 and evenly. If not blue enough, use more sulphate 
 of indigo; and if not yellow enough, use more boiled 
 ebony wood. Pass the silk through a tub of cold 
 water, with a little sulphuric acid in it, and dry in a 
 warm room. 
 
 Dark JMaroon on Silk. 
 
 Put the silk on sticks very smoothly, and put it 
 into the alum mordant ; go 5 turns ; sink it, and let 
 it remain three or four hours ; rinse in cold water : 
 then put a strong peachwood liquor into a tub of 
 water at 140 deg. (use a little alum in the peach- 
 wood liquor,) and handle until deep enough. Dry 
 in a warm room. 
 
 Observation. — In dyeing fine silk, having the gum 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 91 
 
 boiled out, (which is then termed soft silk,) it is very 
 important in using boiled dye-woods, or archill, to 
 strain them well, that no sediment may adhere to the 
 silk. For wove silk, the dyer need not be quite as 
 particular. 
 
 Weighted Light Black on Soft Silk. 
 Boil 20 lbs. small valonie, and 3 lbs. alum, for 
 four hours; then strain off the clear liquor, and let it 
 cool to 160 deg. Enter the silk, and give it 21 turns 
 on smooth sticks ; then sink it in the liquor, and let 
 it remain twelve hours. Take it out, and rinse well 
 in a large quantity of water, or in a running stream; 
 wring it at the post, and stick it up smoothly. Dis- 
 solve 3 lbs. pearlash, and put it into a tub suitable 
 for dyeing 10 lbs. silk. Run it up with cold water, 
 rake up well, and turn the silk in it, fifteen or twenty 
 minutes ; wring it with the hands, (stick up smooth- 
 ly.) Dissolve I lb. copperas, and put it into a tub 
 of water at 90 deg. Rake up well, and turn the silk 
 in it ten minutes ; then take out, and cool in a tub 
 of cold water. Return it to the copperas, and turn 
 ten minutes; take out and cool again. Put about S 
 oz. sulphuric acid into a tub of cold water, and give 
 the silk 7 turns in that. Rinse in another tub of cold 
 water, and dry in the open air. 
 
 Blue Black, or Butch Black. 10 Ihs. Silk. 
 Turn the silk in a weak alum liquor, about fifteen 
 
92 Moiony on Dyeing 
 
 or twenty minutes, and rinse slightly in cold water. 
 Use the strength of 7 or 8 lbs. of logwood in water 
 at 110 deg. Dissolve 3 lbs. hard soap, and put into 
 the logwood liquor ; then add 2 oz. dissolved sulph. 
 of copper. Rake up well, enter the silk, and turn 
 until deep enough. If the logwood is too weak, add 
 more. By using a sufficiency of logwood, you can 
 dye as deep a colour as can be dyed by any method, 
 from the bluest shade to jet black. 
 
 Emerald Green. 10 lbs. Silk. 
 Boil 3 lbs. chipped fustic, and strain off the clear 
 liquor. (Steep the silk previously three or four 
 hours in the alum mordant.) Put some sulphate of 
 indigo into the fustic at 140 deg. Handle until deep 
 enough. If not deep enough, use more sulphate of 
 indigo. Rinse it in cold water, with 8 oz- oil vitriol 
 in it ; turn it carefully on the sticks ; wring, and 
 dry in a warm room. Any shade of light green may 
 be dyed on this principle, by adding or diminishing 
 the drugs. 
 
 Deej) Gi-ass Green, 10 lbs. Silk. 
 Use the strength of 40 lbs. green ebony wood 
 ground and boiled, and add sulphate of indigo 
 enough to blue it, at 140 deg. Give the silk 5 turns 
 in cold water, slightly soured with oil vitriol ; wring, 
 and dry in a warm room. 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 93 
 
 Primrose 
 Is dyed with a very little boiled ebony, and a 
 tinge of sulphate of indigo, in lukewarm water, and 
 dried in a sulphur house, which imparts much beau- 
 ty and delicacy to this colour. 
 
 Pink White. 
 
 This colour is dyed in a weak soap lather, with a 
 very Httle archill at 140 deg. Pearl White is done 
 the same way, by using a little clear indigo water 
 with the soap lather, with a little archill in it. 
 
 Peach Blossom and Lilac is done in a weak soap 
 lather at 140 deg. rather strong of archill. If not 
 blue enough, use a little pearlash in a cold soap la- 
 ther. Dry these colours m a warm room. 
 
 Orange, 1 lbs. Silk. 
 
 Use the strength of 2 lbs. of annotta, or 2i lbs. 
 prepared annotta, in water at 180 deg., using a little 
 pearlash and soap ; dry in a warm room. 
 
 If the colour is not red enough, rinse out of the 
 annotta, and give it a few turns in the alum mordant. 
 
 Yellow. ]0 lbs. Silk. 
 Steep the silk three hours in the alum tub, and 
 rinse well. Boil 20 lbs. of good weld for thirty min- 
 utes, and put in 8 oz. pearlash ; strain off the clear 
 
94 Molony on Dyeing 
 
 liquor, and use half of it in a tub of water at 1 50 deg. 
 and handle the silk in that fifteen minutes; empty 
 the tub, then use the remainder of the weld in anoth- 
 er tub of hot water ; handle fifteen minutes, and 
 take out. Make a strong soap lather at 120 deg. ; 
 turn the silk in that ten minutes ; wring, and dry in 
 a warm room. 
 
 Green Olive. 10 lbs. Bilk. 
 Use 8 oz. dissolved copperas in cold water, and 
 turn the silk in that fifteen minutes, and rinse well in 
 cold water. Use 3 pails of fustic liquor and 1 pail 
 of logwood liquor in water at 1 10 deg., and handle in 
 that twenty minutes. If not yellow enough, use 
 more fustic ; if not green enough, use more log- 
 wood. Dry in a warm room. 
 
 Brown Olive. 
 Make it a buff in prepared annotta, in a soap lath- 
 er; rinse in cold water. Then use 4 pails of boiled 
 fustic liquor, and 1 pail of logwood liquor, in water 
 at 121 deg. Handle in that fifteen minutes. If not 
 brown enough,use some archill in the liquor. Wring 
 and dry in a warm room. 
 
 To darken an Emerald Green to a Myrtle, 
 Use some copperas and a very little logwood m 
 
J\folony on Dyeing, 95 
 
 lukewarm water ; handle fifteen minutes, wring, and 
 dry in a warm room. 
 
 Slate Colour on Silk. 
 Use a little logwood, a tinge of dissolved copper- 
 as, and a little dissolved cream of tartar, in cold wa- 
 ter. If not blue enough, use more logwood; and if 
 not red enough, use more cream of tartar. Wring 
 and dry. 
 
 Sage Drab. 10 lbs. Silk. 
 
 Use the strength of 8 oz. boiled fustic, 2 oz. do. 
 logwood, 1 oz. of copperas, and a small tinge of 
 cream of tartar, in cold water ; turn fifteen minutes. 
 If not green enough, use a little more logwood; and 
 if not yellow enough, use a little more fustic. Dry 
 in a warm room. 
 
 Black. 10 lbs. Silk. 
 
 Dissolve 8 oz. copperas and 1 oz. blue vitriol, and 
 put into a large tub of cold water ; stir up well, en- 
 ter the silk, and give 7 turns, then rinse in cold wa- 
 ter. Then use the strength of 4 lbs. boiled log- 
 wood liquor in lukewarm water, and the strength of 
 3 oz. red tartar dissolved in boiling water; enter the 
 silk, and turn it thirty minutes. If not deep enough, 
 use more logwood ; if not jet enough,use a little fus- 
 
96 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 tic liquor. Then pass the silk through a tub of water 
 at 130 deg. to take off the red shade and improve 
 the colour. Wring, and dry in rather a cool room. 
 Any shade of black may be obtained on this prin- 
 ciple. 
 
 Light Fawn Drab, 10 lbs. Silk. 
 Use the strength of 8 oz. fastic, a little archill, a 
 a very little prepared annotta, and about 1 oz. dis- 
 solved copperas, in lukewarm water; handle twenty 
 minutes. If not red enough, use more archill ; if 
 not yellow enough, use more fustic. Wring, and 
 dry in a warm room. 
 
 Beaver Drab. 
 
 Use a very little logwood liquor, a tinge of archill, 
 a tinge of copperas, and a tinge of red tartar. If 
 not red enough, use a little more archill ; if not 
 enough on the slate colour, use a little logwood ; if 
 not yellow enough, use a little more fustic. Beware 
 of using too much of the drugs in this colour. Dye 
 it in a tub of cold water, and dry it cool. 
 
 Esterhazy Drab, or Blue Fawn. 10 lbs. Silk. 
 
 Put^ lbs. dissolved copperas into a tub of cold 
 water ; stir up well, and give the silk 7 turns in it, 
 (don't rinse.) Then use a little archill, a little fus- 
 
Molony on Dyeing, 97 
 
 tic, a little logwood, and two or three drops oil vit- 
 riol, in cold water, and turn fifteen minutes. If not 
 yellow enough, use more fustic ; if not red enough, 
 a little more archill ; if not blue enough, a little 
 more copperas will blue on the archill. Wring, 
 and dry rather cool. 
 
 Crimson V^at^ containing 60 gallons. 
 Boil 150 lbs. ground peachwood for thirty or for- 
 ty minutes, and put in 6 or 8 oz. newly slacked lime, 
 to extract tlie strength of the peachwood ; strain off 
 the clear liquor, and when it cools to 90 deg. put in 
 9 galls, of "Tin Liquor for Crimson," (see page 54.) 
 Rake up well, and it will be fit for dyeing crimson, 
 in two or three days. (This liquor should be used 
 in a pine tub.) To dye pink with this liquor, take 
 some of it and mix with cold water. If the pink is 
 not blue enough, use a little pearlash in cold water, 
 and it will nearly equal asafflour pink. This liquor 
 should be used cold. Rinse in cold water, and dry. 
 
 Common Scarlet. 
 Dye the silk a light orange, then turn it in some 
 of the crimson liquor until deep enough. 
 
 Fast Chocolate. 10 lbs. Silk. 
 Boil 14 lbs. camwood ; cool, and put in 4 oz. oil 
 
©i Molony on Dyeing » 
 
 vitriol ; turn the silk fifteen or twenty minutes, then 
 take out, and rinse in cold water. Dissolve 1 lb, 
 copperas, and put into a tub of cold water ; turn 
 the silk in this until dark enough. Rinse in cold 
 water. 
 
 P. S. This receipt is for woven silk. It will not 
 answer to colour fine skein silk among loose dye- 
 stuffs. 
 
 Purple V^at, containing 60 gallons. 
 Boil 180 lbs. chip logwood, put in 8 oz. quick 
 lime, and continue to boil four hours ; strain off the 
 clear liquor, and when cooled to 90 deg. put in 8 
 galls. *'Tin Liquor for Purple," (see page 54 ;) rake 
 up well, and it will, in a few days, be fit for dyeing 
 royal purple. Take off the clear liquor, into a clean 
 pine tub, and handle till deep enough. Blue to pat- 
 tern with refined sulphate of indigo. Rinse in cold 
 water, and dry in a warm room. 
 
 Claret Brown on Silk. 
 
 Allow it to remain three hours in the alum tub, 
 then rinse in cold water ; then use some peachwood, 
 fustic, and a little logwood ; (peachwood ought to 
 be the greatest part.) If not blue enough, use more 
 logwood; if not red enough, more peachwood j and 
 if not browii enough, use more fustic. Dye it at 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 99 
 
 about 1 30 deg. of heat. Almost any shade of brown 
 may be dyed on this principle. 
 
 Light Yellow Brown. 10 lbs. Silk. 
 Alum it three hours ; use the strength of 3 lbs. 
 boiled fustic, and of 12 lbs. boiled peachwood in 
 water at 140 deg. If not yellow enough, use more 
 fustic J if not red enough, more peachwood. 
 
 Rich Cinnamon Brown. 10 lbs. SUk. 
 Take the strength of 1 lb. annotta prepared, (see 
 page 78,) and put it into water at 170 deg., and add 
 some pearlash ; handle in it twenty minutes, and 
 rinse in cold water ; then put 6 oz. dissolved cop- 
 peras into a tub of cold water, and turn in that fif- 
 teen minutes, rinse well, and stick up the silk. — 
 Then use the strength of 4 lbs. fustic boiled, in wa- 
 ter at 140 deg. If not red enough, use some archill 
 liquor in the fustic j if not dark enough, use a very 
 little copperas and 8 oz. dissolved red tartar, othei- 
 wise the copperas being on the top might cause un- 
 evenness. 
 
 Common Scarlet ; the simplest method. 
 Use the strength of 2h oz. annotta prepared, (see 
 page 78,) in water at 170 deg. with a Httle pearlash 
 and soap ; handle twenty minutes, and rinse in cold 
 
100 Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 water; then steep it three hours in the common 
 alum tub (see page 79,) and rinse in cold water ; — 
 then get a tub of water at 120 deg. and put in about 
 the strength of 5 oz. peachwood liquor, to each lb. 
 of silk. If not red enough, use more peachwood.— 
 Wring, and dry warm. 
 
 Common Crimson; simplest method. 10 lbs. Silk. 
 
 Steep three hours in the alum mordant^ (see page 
 79,) and rinse in cold water : then use the strength 
 of 3 or 4 lbs. peachwood boiled, in water at 120 deg. 
 Use a little alum to size it. If not full enough, use 
 more peachwood. Then dissolve 8 oz. pearlash, and 
 put into cold water, and turn the silk until blue 
 enough. 
 
 Fast Green. 10 lbs. Silk. 
 Steep three hours in the alum mordant, (see page 
 79,) and rinse well in cold water, and stick up the 
 the silk ; boil 20 lbs. good weld thirty minutes, and 
 put in 8 oz. pearlash to extract the colouring matter, 
 then strain the clear liquor into a large tub, and put 
 half of it into a convenient tub or bark, and make it 
 up with water at 150 deg., and turn the silk in that 
 liquor twenty minutes ; then use the remainder of 
 the weld liquor in another tub of hot water, and 
 turn the silk as before ; take out, wring at the post, 
 shaking it well, and putting about 12 oz, on each 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 101 
 
 stick ; blue to pattern in a woad vat just warm or cold. 
 Wring light and even, and dry in the shade. 
 
 Woad vats are used, but ash vats are not, for silk 
 dyeing, in London, Coventry, Macclesfield, Man- 
 chester and Dublin. The reason vi'hy ash vats are 
 unfit, is, by having too much pearl or potash, which 
 deprives silk of its lustre; also, if you fill silk with 
 archill, for instance to dye a magazine blue, the ash 
 will strip the archill, when in the vat, and of course 
 the colour is not done to shade. If you use more 
 archill, (which must be the case,) the colour will be 
 dull. Every scientific workman will avoid as 
 much as possible the use of either of the fixed 
 alkalies, though in some cases a little cannot be dis- 
 pensed with. 
 
 Volatile alkalies will not injure materially. — 
 Silk will stand more powerful acids without inju- 
 ry, than any animal substance ; but a strong fixed 
 alkali will make it as dull as cotton, and as void of 
 lustre. )iy volatile alkali, I mean ammonia, sal. 
 ammoniac, urine and lime ; but urine, I consider 
 more of a fixed alkali than either of the others; yet 
 It does not destroy the lustre or weaken the texture, 
 as much as potash. 
 
 Beet Root. 10 lbs. Silk. 
 Put 20 lbs good archill into a bag, and boil one 
 hour, and stop the boiling ; enter the silk, and turn 
 till deep enough; then put the juice of lemons or 
 
 9* 
 
102 Molony on Dyeing, 
 
 limes into cold spring water so as to make it taste 
 sour, and turn the silk in it fifteen minutes. If not 
 red enough, use a little more of the above acid. — 
 Dry rather cool. Wove silk can be dyed on the 
 same principle. By using more acids, it will redden 
 to crimson. 
 
 Method of adding to the weight of Sewing SUk. 
 
 For each lb. of silk, boil 3 lbs. Sicily or Malaga 
 sumac twenty minutes ; then turn the silk in it sev- 
 eral turns, and sink it ; allow it to remain twelve 
 hours. This will add 3 oz. to the weight of every 
 pound of silk. 
 
 Yellow. 10 lbs. Silk. 
 Use 2 lbs. boiled tumeric and 1 lb. alum j dry in a 
 
 warm room. 
 
 Green. 10 lbs. Silk. 
 Use 3 lbs. boiled tumeric and 1 lb. alum, and a 
 sufficient quantity of sulphate of indigo to green it ; 
 rinse in cold water and dry in a warm room . 
 
 A Middling Full Brown. )0 lbs. Silk. 
 Dye it a light orange with prepared annotta in 
 water and a little soap, at 160 deg. ; then steep 12 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 1 03 
 
 hours in the sumac, and darken with copperas ; — 
 rinse in cold water. If not red enough, use some 
 archill in hot water; if not yellow enough, use some 
 tumeric with the archill. Dry in a warm room. 
 
 Slate Colour. 
 Use some archill and alum in water at 100 deg. ; 
 then blue the silk to pattern with refined sulphate of 
 indigo and alum in lukewarm water. Dry warm. 
 
 Weighted Drab. 
 Use a little tumeric, a little refined sulphate of in- 
 digo, and a little alum, in water at 100 deg. and it 
 will dye a good sage drab. 
 
 Yellow Drab. 
 
 Use tumeric and a little archill in water at 100 
 deg. If not red enough, use a little more archill; 
 if not dark enough, use a little refined sulphate of 
 indigo. Any shade of weighted drab can be done 
 on this principle ; observing that all these colours, 
 with the exception of brown, must be steeped twelve 
 hours in the quantity of sumac already mentioned. 
 
 If silk be dyed a very deep blue in a cold vat, and 
 then steeped in sumac, as the other colours, 3 lbs. 
 of sumac will add 3 oz. to each lb, of sewing silk. 
 
 I do not approve of tumeric in silk dyeing ; but 
 nothing else will do as well for pveighted colours. 
 
104 Molony on Dyeing 
 
 Method of preparing an Iron Mordant for Prussian 
 Blue, for Silk or Cotton. 
 Put 20 lbs. single aquafortis into a large stone pot^ 
 and add by degrees 3 lbs. turnings of malleable or 
 hoop iron, (free from oxygen ;) add also by degrees 
 2 lbs. copperas. Very little iron and copperas can 
 be used at once, without causing the acid to boil 
 over, and cause waste ; it would also cause too much 
 waste of gas. It will probably require eight or nine 
 hours for the iron and copperas to be consumed. Put 
 the solution into 50 galls, clear cold water, in a tub. 
 When going to use it, stir up well to mix equally. 
 
 Prussian Blue on Silk. 
 
 Handle the silk in the iron mordant ten minutes, 
 then sink it all under the liquor for a few hours, if a 
 deep blue is wanted. Rinse well in cold water ; — 
 then pass it for a few minutes in a strong soap lather 
 and rinse the soap well out in lukewarm water. Get 
 a tub of water at 140 deg., and if for 8 lbs. of silk, 
 put in 8 oz. prussiate of potash, and 12 or 14 oz. mu- 
 riatic acid ; stir up well, enter the silk, and handle 
 it for ten minutes. If not even, add more muriatic 
 acid. (It will certainly be even, if dyed on this 
 method, and carefully handled.) Rinse well in cold 
 water. If wanted on the purple shade, dissolve 
 about 4 drachms of ammoniate of copper in a little 
 warm water, and put into a tub of cold water. Stir 
 up well, enter the silk, and handle briskly for eight 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 105 
 
 or ten minutes. Do not rinse from this process, but 
 dry in a warm room. If 8 lbs. more is wanted, dis- 
 solve half the above named quantity of prussiate of 
 potash, and put into the prussiate tub that the first 
 was dyed in, and treat in the same way. Dry in a 
 warm room. When the mordant becomes too weak, 
 add more of the solution to strengthen the tub. — 
 Coniinue to strengthen the tub, till 200 lbs. of the 
 iron solution is used. The iron solution should be 
 strong enough to afford a deep blue, without getting 
 the second process in the mordant. 
 
 For preparing unbleached Piece Cotton for Dyeing, 
 To 100 ps. cotton cloth, (allowing each ps. to 
 weigh Ah lbs.) put 12 lbs. potash dissolved into a 
 vessel, and boil the goods in it three hours ; cool, 
 take out, and rinse in cold water. Get a tub of wa- 
 ter at about 120] deg. and add as much sulphuric 
 acid as will make it a little sour, and turn the goods 
 with a reel or wynch, go three ends, and rinse well 
 in cold water. 
 
 Another Method. 
 Boil the pieces the same time in the same quantity 
 of potash ; then wash in a dash-wheel for ten or fif- 
 teen minutes ; then pass three turns in the hot water 
 soured with oil vitriol. Rinse in cold water, and the 
 goods are fit for dyeing. 
 
 This is the best method I knov/ of. The price 
 
106 Molony on Dyeing 
 
 for dyeing cotton is at present so low, that dyers 
 merely boil the goods in clean water ; but the col- 
 ours will not be perfect with that preparation. — 
 Prussian blue and other colours are often imperfect- 
 ly dyed, owing to the size remaining on the goods. 
 Skein cotton does not require souring or dash-wash- 
 ing. I had rather dye either piece or skein cotton 
 in the brown state, than dye it half bleached. I want 
 it full bleached, or not at all. It is not necessary to 
 use potash for skein cotton. In London, they use a 
 very small quantity of oil vitriol in boiling skein cot- 
 ton, and rinse in cold water. This method I approve. 
 
 Barwood Red, 20 lbs. Cotton. 
 
 Boil 20 lbs. Malaga or Sicily sumac, and give the 
 cotton 5 turns in it, and sink for twelve hours. To 
 make tin liquor for this colour, take 5 pints of muri- 
 atic acid, 1 pint nitric acid, and put into a stone pot ; 
 feed it slowly with 27 oz. grain tin. When the tin 
 is all dissolved, put the solution into a large tub of 
 cold water; stir up well, and handle the cotton in 
 it thirty minutes ; sink it, and let it remain three or 
 four hours ; then rinse in cold water. Boil 40 lbs. 
 of barwood and 8 oz. pulverized Aleppo nut galls. — • 
 Cool the liquor, enter the cotton, boil two hours, 
 giving a turn every five minutes ; take out and pass 
 it through a cool soap lather. Dry in the open air, 
 or in a middling warm room. 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 107 
 
 Peachwood Red. 20 lbs. Cotton. 
 Boil 10 lbs. Malaga or Sicily sumac, and strain 
 off the clear liquor; give the cotton 4 or 5 turns in 
 this liquor, and sink it for twelve hours. Fill a suit- 
 able tub of cold water, and put in 1 quart of "No. 1 
 Tin Liquor for Cotton," (see page 53 ;) rake up well, 
 give the cotton 7 turns in it, and sink it for one 
 hour. Take out and rinse in two tubs of cold wa- 
 ter, (each tub to contain as much as the spirit tub.) 
 Too much water must not be used in washing, as 
 the cotton would be deprived of too much acid. — 
 Boil 14 lbs. good peachwood twenty minutes, strain 
 off the clear liquor, and add 8 oz. dissolved alum. — 
 Putin the cotton and turn it for fifteen minutes, then 
 give it a turn every five minutes for twenty minutes ; 
 take out, and add about one quart of liquor from the 
 spirit tub ; rake up well, and turn the cotton in it 
 till deep enough. Take out, and dry in a warm 
 room, without rinsing. 
 
 Fast Brown. 20 lbs. Cotton. 
 Boil 3 lbs. sumac, strain off the clear liquor, and 
 steep the cotton in it twelve hours ; then dissolve 
 2 lbs. copperas, and put into a tub of lukewarm wa- 
 ter, and turn carefully in it fifteen minutes. Then 
 dissolve 1 6 oz. acetate of lead, and put into a tub of 
 cold water, and turn the cotton in it fifteen minutes ; 
 wring out, and handle in it fifteen minutes more. — 
 Wring, and return to the sugar of lead tub, and han- 
 
J 04 JHolony on Dyeing, 
 
 die in it fifteen minutes more, and rinse well in cold 
 water. Boil 10 lbs. barwood and 7 lbs. fustic for 
 one hour; cool to 160 deg. and turn the cotton in it 
 fifteen minutes ; then get on a brisk fire, turning 
 every five minutes ; commence boiling, and turn un- 
 til full enough of colour. Takeout, shake off the 
 loose dye-stuffs, and rinse in cold vi^ater ; then pass 
 the cotton through a strong soap lather, a little 
 warmed, and dry the most convenient way. 
 
 Common Brown. 20 lbs. Cotton. 
 
 Boil 4 lbs. Malaga or Sicily sumac for fifteen min-g« 
 utes, strain off the clear liquor, give the cotton 7 
 turns in it, and sink it twelve hours. Take out ; — 
 dissolve 2 lbs. copperas, and put into a tub of warm 
 water, and handle in it for fifteen minutes ; then 
 take a tub half full of warm water, and put in 7 or 8 
 pails full of strong dear lime water; stir up well, 
 and turn the cotton in it ten minutes. Get a large 
 tub of warm water, and put in a pail full of old 
 urine, stir it up, put in the cotton, rinse it well, and 
 take out. Boil 7 lbs. peachwood and 5 lbs. fustic ; 
 strain off the clear liquor into a suitable tub of hot 
 water, and add 8 or 10 oz. dissolved alum ; rake up 
 well, and handle the cotton in it twenty minutes. — 
 If not red enough, use more boiled peachwood ; if 
 not yellow enough, use more boiled fustic. Dry in 
 a warm room, without rinsing. 
 
Molony on Dyeing, 109 
 
 Deep Purple, 20 lbs. Cotton, 
 Handle the cotton ten minutes in the strength of 
 7 lbs. boiled logwood warm ; then put half a pint 
 " No. 2 tin liquor," (see page 53,) into a tub of cold 
 water, and turn in it ten minutes ; rinse in cold wa- 
 ter, return it to the logwood, and handle ten min- 
 utes, and done. 
 
 Another Purple, 20 lbs. Cotton, 
 Handle the cotton ten minutes in the strength of 
 ^ 9 lbs. boiled logwood ; dissolve 2 lbs. alum, and put 
 xinto a tub of cold water, and handle in that ten min- 
 utes ; rinse in cold water, and return to the log- 
 wood, go 7 turns, and done. Dry in a warm room. 
 
 LAlac. 20 lbs. Cotton, 
 Handle the cotton ten minutes in the strength of 
 3 lbs. logwood ; then handle in the strength of 1 lb. 
 dissolved alum in cold water. Dry the most con- 
 venient way. 
 
 Lavender, 20 lbs. Cotton. 
 Dissolve 24 oz. alum and 12 oz. acetate of lead m 
 one gallon of water, and add 2 oz. chalk ; allow it 
 to remain twenty four hours ; then put it in a tub of 
 cold water, and handle the cotton in it for ten min- 
 utes ; then rinse in a tub of equal size? then nm the 
 10 
 
HO Molony on Dyeing. 
 
 strength of 2 lbs. boiled logwood in a tub of water 
 at about 90 deg. and handle in it for twenty minutes. 
 Dry in a room slightly warm. 
 
 P. S. Purple, Lilac and Lavender are fugitive 
 colours, but will answer for linings. 
 
 Bark Green. 10 Ihs. Cotton. 
 
 Dye the pieces a light blue in a hot or cold blue 
 vat, and rinse well in cold water. Put 5 lbs. citron 
 bark into a kettle and boil ten minutes, take off the 
 clear liquor, and let it cool to 180 deg. ; then put in 
 half a pint No. 3 tin liquor, (see page 53 ;) rake up 
 well, enter the goods, and turn 11 ends; take out, 
 rinse in cold water, and dry in a warm room. 
 
 Bark Yellow is done in the same way, except the 
 yellow is not blued. 
 
 Tumeric. \Olbs. Cotton. 
 
 Put 1 lb. good tumeric into 2 gallons cold water, 
 and add 2 oz. pearlash dissolved in hot water ; put 
 it into a tub, and go 7 ends ; then dissolve 8 oz. 
 alum, and put into a tub of cold water, and add 4 
 oz. sulphuric acid ; rake up well, enter the cloth, 
 and give it 7 turns. Pi-inse well in cold water, and 
 dry in a warm room. 
 
 This is a very fugitive colour, but is used for lin- 
 ings. Some dyers dye this colour, by using the 
 above proportions of tumeric and cotton, in water 
 
Molony on Dyeing* 111 
 
 almost boiling, without pearlash or alum ; using 
 four times the quantity of sulphuric acid. The lat- 
 ter method, I do not approve, for dyeing piece cot- 
 tons. 
 
 Fast Orange. 10 lbs. Skein Cotton, 
 Dissolve 3 lbs. acetate of lead in hot water, and 
 put into a tub of cold water ; give the cotton 7 turns 
 in it. Dissolve 24 oz. B. chromate of potash of 
 orange crystals, and put into a tub of cold water; — 
 mix well, and give the cotton 7 turns, ringing mid- 
 dling tight every dip, and return to each liquor two 
 or three times. To make a strong lime lye for this 
 colour, take 2 pecks good lime and slack, and put 
 into 100 galls, cold water ; rake up well, and allow 
 it to settle three hours ; then take out the clear li- 
 quor, and mix with boiling water in proportions of 
 two parts water and one part lime water ; stir up 
 well, enter the cotton, and turn ten or fifteen min- 
 utes. It will change in hot lime water from a strong 
 yellow to a full orange. Rinse in cold water. 
 
 Piece cotton is dyed green, yellow and orange, 
 with the same dye-stuffs as skein cotton. The only 
 difference in the process is, that piece cotton is dyed 
 in padding machines, which are generally used for 
 printing. 
 
 Were any man to edge piece cotton chrome col- 
 ours, his fingers would ulcerate in a short time; and 
 I am of opinion that the pieces would be unevenly 
 dyed. 
 
112 Molony on Dyeing, 
 
 A Fugitive Orange. 10 lbs. Cotton, 
 Boil 12 oz. good annotta and 12 oz. pearlash fif- 
 teen minutes ; then strain off into a kettle or tub of 
 water at 160 deg. Dissolve 24 oz. brown hard soap 
 and put into the tub ; rake up well, enter the cotton, 
 and handle until deep enough. Dry in a warm 
 room. The orange will not absorb all the strength 
 of the drugs, and the workman can dye light and 
 deep shades of buff in the same liquor, by adding a 
 little soap to keep up the lather. If a pale shade is 
 to be dyed in it, it will be much improved by rinsing 
 the goods in lukewarm water ; then dissolve 2 lbs. 
 alum in boiling water, and put into 50 galls, of cold 
 water ; handle in that for ten minutes. It will red- 
 den the buff to a salmon colour, and impart much 
 beauty to the shade. The above quautity of alum 
 will be sufficient for 30 lbs. of piece or skein cotton. 
 Do not rinse from the alum. Dry in a warm room. 
 
 Wood Green. 10 lbs. Cotton. 
 Boil 4 lbs. good fustic and 24 oz. logwood, and 
 mix hot water with the clear liquor, to bring it to 
 about 140 deg.; handle the pieces in that ten min- 
 utes. Dissolve 6 oz. sulphate of copper, and put 
 into a tub of cold water, and handle the goods 3 
 ends ; return to the fustic, go 3 ends ; take out, and 
 put 3 oz. dissolved sulphate of copper into the fus- 
 tic; return and go 5 ends. If not green enough, 
 use more logwood ; if not yellow enough, use more 
 fustic. 
 
Molony on Dyeing, 113 
 
 Deep Slate, 1 lbs. Cotton, 
 Handle the pieces 7 ends in the strength of 4 lbs. 
 boiled logwood at 160 deg. ; then take out, and dis- 
 solve 2 lbs. copperas and 1 lb. alum in boiling wa- 
 ter, and put both into a tub of lukewarm water ; rake 
 up well, enter the pieces and go 5 ends ; take out 
 and rinse. A paler shade may be produced by di- 
 minishing the drugs. The above will be a reddish 
 shade. If a greenish shade be wanted, use 4 oz. 
 fustic with the above quantity of logwood at the 
 same heat; use also the same quantity of copperas, 
 but leave out the alum. 
 
 Deep Black. 10 lbs. Cotton. 
 
 Boil 6 lbs. American surtiac and 6 oz. black oak 
 bark, fifteen minutes; take off, and steep the cotton 
 in it twelve hours ; then pass it through some clear 
 lime water, and rinse. Dissolve 2 lbs. copperas, 
 adding 2 pails sumac liquor, and put into a tub of 
 cold water; go 3 ends in that, then go 3 ends in the 
 lime tub, and rinse well in cold water. Boil 4 lbs. 
 logwood, and put into a tub of water at 120 deg. and 
 add two pails sumac liquor, and go 5 ends; dissolve 
 2 oz. copperas and put into the logwood, and go 2 
 ends and rinse. 
 
 P. S. American sumac is about two thirds the 
 strength of the Sicily, if a good article; and I pre- 
 fer it for black dyeing, as it yields a shade of. blue. 
 I prefer the Sicily or Malaga for dyeing red or scar- 
 let on cotton. 
 
 10* 
 
114 Mclony on Dyeing, 
 
 Method of setting a Blue V^atfor Skein Cotton^ 
 Get a puncheon or pipe tub, and first put in 16 
 lbs. copperas ; nearly fill it with water; then put in 
 8 lbs. good Bengal indigo ground in water; then 
 slack about 14 lbs. good quick lime and add to the 
 vat ; rake up in half an hour for ten minutes, and 
 rake again in three or four hours. If the vat is a 
 dark green, and has no appearance of yellow, put in 
 3 or 4 lbs. more lime, and rake up again. When it 
 assumes a greenish yellow, you may consider it in 
 good order. Rake up, and allow it twelve hours to 
 settle, when it will be in good working condition ; 
 then dip the cotton, and take out and cool. (Do 
 not dip more than 30 lbs.) Rake up, and allow it 
 twelve hours to settle- (Do not work cold vats but 
 once a day.) When a considerable quantity of cot- 
 ton is dyed, put iii a little copperas and lime. If 
 the vat is most in want of lime, it will have a dark 
 green appearance; if most in want of copperas, it 
 will be somewhat yellow. In the latter case, it will 
 require rather more copperas than lime ; in the for- 
 mer, more lime than copperas. If not in either 
 extreme, use an equal quantity of both ; probably it 
 may require about 2 lbs. of each. 
 
 A Green that will stand Bleaching. 10 lbs. Cotton. 
 Put 7 lbs. dissolved copperas into a tub of cold 
 water. Make up a strong lime tub, rake up, and 
 take off the clear liquor into a tub ; turn the cotton 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 115 
 
 five minutes in the copperas, wring tight at the 
 dyer's post, and allow it to cool a few minutes ; then 
 turn it five minutes in the clear lime water, wring 
 tight and cool again ; return it to the copperas, 
 wring and cool as before ; then return to the lime, 
 wring and cool ; then dip it five minutes in the blue 
 vat, take out, wring and cool ; then dip from tub to 
 tub, wring and cool, and continue the process from 
 the blue vat to the tubs, till the right colour be ob- 
 tained. Rinse well in cold water, and give the cot- 
 ton a strong soap lather ; rinse in cold water, and 
 dry in the open air. This is a very dull green, but 
 improves much in bleaching, and is used for stripes 
 in ginghams. 
 
 Bleaching Black is also dyed in the same manner, 
 having the lime and copperas tubs and blue vat very 
 strong. It will also require dipping oftener from 
 the tubs to the vat, and from the vat to the tubs, and 
 rinsing in cold water; and must be turned in a 
 strong soap lather at 140 deg. which is the proper 
 heat for the green also. 
 
 Full Pink. 2 ps. Cotton. 
 Take as much prepared soffiour (see page 80.) as 
 when dry would weigh 4 lbs. and put into a tub of 
 cold hard water; handle the pieces in that by edg- 
 ing and salvaging with the hands for ten minutes ; 
 then put in about half a pint oil vitriol, and stir up 
 well ; handle the goods fifteen or twenty minutes, 
 
I ! 6 Molony on Dyeing 
 
 and take out. Dissolve 8 oz. cream of tartar, and 
 put into a tub of cold water ; give the pieces 5 ends 
 in that, and dry cool. Any shade of pink can be 
 obtained on the above method, by adding or dimin- 
 ishing. 
 
 Bengal Buff. 10 lis. Cotton. 
 Take a pint of " Iron Mordant for Prussian Blue,'' 
 (see page 79,) and put into a tub of cold water ; — 
 rake up well, handle the cotton in it ten minutes, 
 and rinse in cold water. Then steep 8 oz. chloride 
 of lirae, and put in a tub of cold water, rake up well, 
 and allow it to settle ; then take off the clear liquor, 
 and put it into a tub of cold water ; give the pieces 
 5 ends in that ; then rinse, and return to the iron 
 mordant ; rinse, and return to the chloride, and dip 
 from one tub to the other, till deep enough. Rinse 
 in cold water ; then give the pieces a strong soap 
 lather, rinse and dry. Any shade of buff can be ob- 
 tained on this principle. 
 
 Jlnother Method of Dyeing Fast Bvff. 2 ps. Cotton. 
 Put S oz. dissolved copperas into a tub of cold 
 water ; dissolve also 8 oz. pearlash, and put into a 
 tub of cold water ; turn the cloth five minutes in the 
 pearlash tub ; squeeze it well, and put it into the 
 copperas tub ; go 7 ends, then take out, squeeze it, 
 and expose it for a fevi minutes to the air. Return, 
 
Molony on Dyeing, 1 1 7 
 
 squeeze and air it, from one tub to the other, till deep 
 enough ; then rinse in cold water ; then make a 
 strong soap lather at 110 deg. and handle in that ten 
 minutes ; rinse in cold water. 
 
 Green Olive. 9 lbs. Cotton, 
 Boil 7 lbs. fustic, 3 lbs. Sicily or Malaga sumac, 
 and 2 lbs. logwood, for two hours, if chipped wood ; 
 but if ground, twenty minutes will answer. Strain 
 off the clear liquor, and handle the cotton in it twen- 
 ty minutes, at 140 deg. Then dissolve 24 oz. cop- 
 peras, and 12 oz. sulphate of copper, and put into a 
 kettle of cold water, and stir up well ; sadden in this 
 liquor ten minutes ; then rinse well in cold water, 
 return to the former tub, and go 5 ends ; take out, 
 and put the strength of 4 oz. sulphate of copper in 
 the tub; mix well, and enter the cotton, g.o 5 ends, 
 take out and dry. 
 
 Brown Olive. 10 lbs. Cotton. 
 Boil 7 lbs. ground logwood, 24 oz. Sicily sumac, 
 and 4 oz. gr, logwood, for 20 minutes ; strain off the 
 clear into a tub ; have it about 140 deg., and handle 
 the cotton in it thirty minutes, and take out. Dis- 
 solve 24 oz. copperas and 12 oz. sulphate of copper, 
 and put into a tub of lukewarm water ; stir up well, 
 enter the cotton, and go 7 turns ; take out and rinse 
 well in cold water ; return it to the sumac and log- 
 
118 Molony on Dyeing 
 
 wood tub, and go 5 ends ; take out, and dissolve 4 
 oz. sulphate of copper, and put into tub ; stir up 
 well, enter the cotton, and go three ends, and done. 
 If not brown enough, use 2 or 3 lbs. boiled fustic in 
 another tub at 140 deg. 
 
 Scarlet. 10 lbs. Cotton. 
 
 Boil 20 oz. good flag annotta, and 20 oz. pearlash, 
 for fifteen minutes, and strain off into a tub of water 
 at 160 deg.; handle in this twenty minutes, and 
 rinse well in cold water ; then steep one hour in the 
 strength of 12 oz. Malaga or Sicily sumac, in luke- 
 warm water. Boil 2 lbs. peachwood, and put into 
 water at 120 deg. and add about 4 oz. alum ; handle 
 in that twenty minutes. If not red enough, add 
 more peachwood to the same liquor, and handle till 
 red enough. Take out and put in half pint " Tin 
 Liquor for Red Cotton," (see page 53,) aod go 3 
 ends. 
 
 P. S. I have sometimes used the tin liquor in 
 cold water, after the cotton has been in the sumac. 
 Either method will answer, but I prefer the former, 
 
 Crimson. 10 lbs. Cotton. 
 Boil 5 lbs. Malaga or Sicily samac for fifteen min- 
 utes ; take off the clear liquor at nearly boiling heat, 
 and handle the cotto.i in it five minutes, and sink it 
 for twelve hours ; then put half a pint " Tin liquor 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 1 1 9 
 
 No. 1," (see page 53,) into a tub of cold water ot 
 about 30 gallons, and handle in that twenty min- 
 utes ; then sink it for one hour. Take out, and rinse 
 in 30 gallons of cold water, and repeat the washing 
 in the same quantity. If washed in a running stream, 
 it would lose too much of the acid. Boil 6 lbs. 
 good peachwood fifteen minutes ; strain off the clear 
 mto a tub, add 4 oz. dissolved alum ; have it at about 
 160 deg. and enter the cotton ; turn carefully for 
 twenty minutes ; then put in half a pint tin liquor 
 for red cotton, (see page 53,) while the peachwood 
 liquor is at 100 deg. ; handle the cotton in that 
 fifteen or twenty minutes, and it will blue it to a 
 crimson. 
 
 Beet Root is dyed in the same manner, by dimin- 
 ishing one third of the sumac, and using the strength 
 of I lb. boiled logwood in the peachwood liquor. 
 
 Fawn Drab. 10 lbs. Cotton. 
 Take the strength of 1 lb. boiled fustic, of 8 oz. boil- 
 ed sumac, and a litile prepared annotta liquor, in 
 water at 120 deg. ; enter the goods, and go 9 ends, 
 and take out ; then dissolve 8 oz. copperas, and put 
 into a tub of cold water, and add 20 drops oil vitriol, 
 stir up, enter the cotton, and go 7 ends ; done. 
 
 Reddish or Sandy Drab. 10 lbs. Cotton. 
 Put the strength of 12 oz. boiled fustic, of 6 oz. 
 
120 Molony on Dyeing, 
 
 boiled sumac, and of three oz. peachwood, into a 
 tub of water at 120 deg. ; handle the cotton in that 
 fifteen minutes ; then dissolve 8 oz, copperas, and 
 put into a tub of cold water ; stir up well, enter the 
 cotton, and go 7 turns; rinse in cold water, and dry 
 in a warm room. 
 
 Sage Drab. 9 lbs. Cotton. 
 Boil 1 lb. ground fustic, 8 oz. sumac, and 2 oz. 
 ground logwood, and strain the clear liquor into wa- 
 ter at 120 deg. j go 9 ends in that, and dissolve 8 oz, 
 copperas, and put into cold water, and go 5 ends. — 
 If not green enough, use a trifle of neutralized sul- 
 phate of indigo, (see page 57 ;) rinse in a tub of cold 
 water, with a little alum in it. 
 
 Beaver Drab. 10 lbs. Cotton. 
 
 Boil 8 oz. ground fustic and 8 oz. Sicily sumac, 
 and put into water at 120 deg. ; go 9 ends in that ; 
 then dissolve 8 oz. copperas, and put into a tub of 
 cold water ; stir up well, and go 9 ends in that ; — 
 done. 
 
 Claret. 10 lbs. Cotton. 
 
 Have the strength of 2 lbs. boiled sumac nearly 
 at boiling heat ; give the goods 3 ends in it, and 
 sink for twelve hours ; then take out, and put near- 
 
Molony on Dyeing. 121 
 
 sy a pint No. 1 tin liquor (see page 53) into a tub of 
 cold water, and go 9 turns, and sink for one hour ; 
 then go 5 ends in 30 gallons of cold water, and re- 
 peat the rinsing in the same quantity. Boil 4 lbs. 
 good peachwood and 4 lbs. logwood, and cool to 
 160 deg. ; enter the pieces, and go 9 ends; then 
 take out; and add 8 oz. boiled alum ; put in also 3 
 quarts from the spirit tub ; stir up well, put in the 
 pieces, and go 7 ends ; dry in a warm room. 
 
 China Green. 9 lbs. Cotton. 
 Boil 10 lbs. Cuba fustic and 6oz. sulphate of cop- 
 per two hours, and strain off the clear ; wynch the 
 pieces in it fifteen minutes, and sink for one hour.— 
 Dissolve 3 lbs alum, and put into a tub of lukewarm 
 water ; stir well, enter the pieces and go 9 ends ; — 
 return to the fustic, go 9 ends, and sink for one hour ; 
 then take out and return to the alum and go 9 ends, 
 then go 9 ends more in the fustic, and blue it to a 
 ^reen with china in cold water, (1 lb. dissolved alum 
 
 nd 2 pails fustic liquor for china, see page 58 :) — 
 
 \ry in a warm room, without rinsing. 
 
 Bright Scarlet. 10 lbs. Cotton. 
 
 Boil i lb. good flag annotta twenty minutes, then 
 
 id 1 lb. pearlash, arid boil ten minutes; strain oft' 
 
 the clear into a strong soap lather 8t 140 deg., and 
 
 handle the cotton in it tvs^enty minutes ; then rinse 
 
 li 
 
122 Molony on Dyeing, 
 
 well in lukewarm water; then put the strength of 3 
 lbs. safflour prepared, (see page 80,) and about 1 
 pint sulphuric acid, into a tub of cold water ; stir 
 up well, and handle the cotton in it thirty minutes. 
 If not full enough, use some more prepared safflour, 
 and more sulphuric acid,and handle till deep enough. 
 If the safflour has enough of acid in it, it will have 
 a crimson appearance. Then boil 12 oz. crude tar- 
 tar, and put into a tub of cold water ; handle the 
 cotton in it, and dry in the shade or in a cool room. 
 Dyeing warm, injures this colour materially. If it be 
 piece cotton, callender as cool as can be conveni- 
 ently done. 
 
^s -m^^u 
 

 ERRATA. 
 
 Page 14, line 1 — insttcul o/" if dyed in a rery warm dyehouse,** 
 rearf— if dried in a very warm dry-house. 
 
 Page 14, line ll^msiead of*' J2 qts. sulphuric acid," read— 1 
 pint sulphuric aci^. 
 
 Page )5, line 17 — read "eo that it does not make the staple of 
 of the wool tender." 
 
 Page 53, No. 3 Tin Liquor, for Scarlet use i pint oil of 
 
 vitriol and 5 pints muriatic acid. 
 
 Page 55, Cochineal Scarlet — read 40 oz. good cochineal. 
 
 Page 59, Lavender — instead of " rinse," r^arf blue in a woad 
 vat. 
 
 Page 84, Modena Crimson — read bell tub, instead of bell. 
 
 Page 96, Esterhazy Drab — read 5 oz. dissolved copperas, in- 
 stead of 5 lbs. 
 
 Page 99, Light Yellow Brown— reac^ 3 lbs. boiled fustic and 
 12 oz. boiled peachwood. 
 
 Ptge 100, Coraqjon Crimson — Use a littl« alum to rise it. 
 
 Ps^e 10] J Green Silk— Wring tight and even. 
 
 
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