XcmcLon, S*ub fashed by Sherwood, {Gilbert £ .Piper. DecT IS Sit. 
 
TWO THOUSAND FIVE HUNDRED 
 
 IJrarttcal Rrriprs 
 
 IN 
 
 FAMILY COOKERY; 
 
 In which the whole Art of 
 
 PREPARING FOOD AND DRINK FOR THE HUMAN STOMACH 
 IS SIMPLIFIED AND EXPLAINED, 
 
 IN ACCORDANCE TO THE BEST KNOWLEDGE OF THE AGE, 
 
 And most conducive to the Health and Happiness of our Species; 
 
 WITH AN 
 
 INTRODUCTION 
 
 ON THE 
 
 DUTIES OF COOKS AND OTHER SERVANTS; 
 
 Observations on tbc Implements employed in Cooking; 
 
 INSTRUCTIONS FOR MARKETING, FOR TRUSSING, 
 
 AND FOR PERFORMING THE 
 
 HONOURS OF THE TABLE WITH GRACE AND PROPRIETY 
 
 IN THE WHOLE 
 
 art of ©attain b. 
 
 BY JAMES JENNINGS, 
 
 Author of the Family Cyclopaedia. 
 
 LONDON : 
 
 SHERWOOD, GILBERT, AND PIPER, 
 
 PATERNOSTER-ROW. 
 
 1837. 
 
Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2019 with funding from 
 Getty Research Institute 
 
 V. 
 
 
 https://archive.org/details/twothousandfivehOOjen 
 
ADVERTISEMENT EXTRAORDINARY 
 
 TO THE 
 
 COMPLETE 
 
 FAMILY COOK REFORMED. . 
 
 The Slate of the Representation of the Art of 
 Cookery required, (to adopt the words of our pa¬ 
 triotic and most gracious King, William the Fourth,) 
 “ a large measure of Reform:” we have, 
 therefore, by and with the advice and consent of our 
 Council of Cooks herein named; and more espe¬ 
 cially, with the advice, consent, approbation, and 
 goodly superintendence of our faithful and well- 
 beloved Mrs. Sarah Jennings, one of our said coun¬ 
 cil ; and also, with the advice, consent, and approba¬ 
 tion of our kind friend and faithful counsellor, 
 Mrs. Jane Johnson, a lady who hath for many years 
 devoted her attention to the art of cooking; where¬ 
 fore, having now leisure, and withal considerable 
 benevolence, she hath most generously, and without 
 fee or reward, offered to Us her extensive and long 
 experience in the art of cooking human food ; and it 
 hath been, therefore, by them the said Mrs. Johnson 
 and Mrs. Jennings (together with other grave, dis¬ 
 creet, and learned matrons, of whom our council of 
 cooks consists, but whom it is not here necessary 
 more particularly to name) together with ourself, 
 
IV 
 
 ADVERTISEMENT. 
 
 agreed that we shall submit to those Ladies all the 
 Laws, Rules, Recipes, Ordinances, and Regulations 
 which may be thought necessary, pleasant, useful, 
 elegant, or beneficial to the State of Cookery as now 
 established, or about to be, for their revision, appro¬ 
 bation, or otherwise, as to them shall seem meet. 
 
 Now, therefore, these are to certify that the fol¬ 
 lowing Laws, Rules, Recipes, Ordinances, and 
 Regulations, have been submitted to our Select 
 Council aforesaid ; and have been by them revised, 
 altered, and approved, or otherwise, as hath ap¬ 
 peared to the said Council meet. And in order to 
 the avoidance of a multitude of words, (brevity 
 being, as it ought to be, not only the soul of wit, 
 but of sense,) we have directed and ordered, and do 
 hereby direct and order that when our learned Censors 
 in council do not approve of a Recipe or a Law 
 which hath been propounded, yet, as it may be pru¬ 
 dent sometimes to retain such recipe or law in defe¬ 
 rence to some prejudice in its behalf, it is necessary 
 that the Disapproval of our Council in such case 
 shall appear, We order that the words permitted not 
 approved be appended to such law or recipe; or such 
 other words as to our Council shall seem meet, and 
 which imply the same. 
 
 Carbonarius, Secretary. 
 
 Londini, L, S, 
 
 Dati ex Edibus Consilii, 
 
 October, 1836 . 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 OUTLINES OF THE HISTORY OF THE ART OF 
 COOKERY. 
 
 Inquire amidst proud Learning’s store 
 What man hath been in days of yore \ 
 
 How States arose, how Empires fell— 
 
 How Monarchs governed ill or well. 
 
 Yet amidst all, in every clime. 
 
 That WISDOM is the CHIEF, the PRIME* 
 
 Which appertains to daily life, 
 
 -And well becomes both maid and wife,— 
 
 Imparts for aye a pleasant zest. 
 
 And must be, ever will be, BEST. 
 
 The Art of Cookery in its elements is almost as old as the 
 creation, although few records of it have been handed down to 
 us ; for we cannot doubt that Man, being prompted by his feeling 
 to satisfy his hunger, soon learnt, even from the simplest fruits, 
 the best method of rendering those fruits agreeable ; so that if he 
 ate an apple or an orange, he would, in a very short time, know 
 that the core of the first and the rind of the second must be rejec¬ 
 ted. From such simple beginnings, he proceeded step by step, 
 till he found in the all-important grain, wheat, an article that 
 not only supplied his immediate wants, but which could be 
 kept in store for his future support. This fact, although it now 
 appears so simple, must have been, by the first inhabitants of 
 the earth, considered a great and a fortunate discovery; as 
 it was, and even, at the present time, must still be consi¬ 
 dered. 
 
 One of the first steps in the art of Cookery was the employ¬ 
 ment of fire; for we find that the parching of corn was perhaps 
 the very first of the processes to which human food was subjec¬ 
 ted. By slightly parching, corn is rendered more savoury, and 
 for robust stomachs, such as were, doubtless, those with which 
 the first inhabitants of the earth were blessed, it must have been 
 much more suitable than the raw corn ; although we are not dis¬ 
 posed to recommend the revival of this primeval practice, because 
 
 * “ To know 
 
 That which before us lies in daily life 
 Is the prime wisdom.”—MILTON. 
 
 b 
 
11 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 we have superior means of making grain of all kinds much more 
 suitable to our digestive functions. (See page 236.*) 
 
 The earliest writings upon whose authenticity reliance can be 
 placed concerning the preparation of food are the Jewish 
 Scriptures. It is true that in these we are told, to Man was 
 given “ every herb bearing seed,” and “ every tree in the which 
 is the fruit of a tree yielding seed” for meat. Yet we find that 
 many herbs as well as fruits are not suited for the food of man ; 
 and he has been compelled to exercise his judgment in the selec¬ 
 tion and perparation of it; and hence the art of cookery arose ; it 
 was, as we have seen, most simple at first till man’s wants and at 
 length his luxury prompted him to the indulgence of the appetite. 
 
 How soon after the fall men began to eat animal food , we are 
 not informed ; but as Abel was a keeper of sheep while Cain was 
 a tiller of the ground, we may reasonably conclude that animal 
 as well as vegetable food was eaten by the primeval inhabitants of 
 the earth ; for cattle are mentioned in the history of Lamech, a 
 descendant of Cain. 
 
 In the history of Noah and his descendants w r e become better 
 informed. Every moving thing that liveth shall be meat for you ; 
 even as the green herb have I given you all things. So here is a 
 complete recognition of animal food for our support; yet man has 
 been obliged, notwithstanding this broad bequest of his Creator, 
 as in the case of vegetable food, to exercise his judgment in its 
 selection and preparation. We find, too, that Noah began to be 
 a husbandman, and that he planted a vineyard and drank of the 
 W'ine and w r as drunken. 
 
 We next find that Abram teas very rich in cattle as well as in 
 silver and in gold ; and that Melchisedek brought forth, to enter¬ 
 tain him, bread and ivine. This is, we believe, the second time 
 that Bread is mentioned in the sacred writings, the first being in 
 Genesis, chapter the third, where is announced to man as a sort 
 of punishment for his disobedience, that in the sweat of thy face 
 shall thou eat bread. But bread here seems to imply not only 
 bread now so called, but also the general food of man. 
 
 The first notice of a regular entertainment is also in Genesis, 
 where Abraham gave directions for the refection of the celestial 
 messengers. “ Make ready,'’ said he, “ quickly three measures of 
 fine meal, knead it, and make cakes upon the hearth. And Abraham 
 ran unto the hei'd and fetched a calf tender and good, and gave it 
 unto a young man; and he hasted to dress it. And he took butter and 
 milk, and the calf which he had dressed, and set it before them; and 
 he stood by them under the tree, and they did eat.” 
 
 * A remnant of the practice of parching of corn may yet be occasion¬ 
 ally seen, when children, in particular, are indulged in the parching of 
 horse-beans or peas, (see page 211,) as a sort of bonne bouche ; but the 
 careful mother generally cautions them in tlieir use ; if eaten in any 
 quantity they are often injurious. They are usually parched till they 
 swell and the skins burst with a report from some disengaged gas : the 
 first scintillations of chemical decomposition effected by the art of cookery ' 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 HI 
 
 Here we have the first mention of hotter ; but from the frequent 
 mention of the articles corn, wine, and oil in the Scriptures, 
 there can be no doubt that in addition to the flocks and herds, 
 these articles were considered, as they still are, in the Levant the 
 chief support of man : for butter in warm climates must be very 
 often in the state of an oil, and therefore it can be no wonder 
 that olive oil, which is so much more easily preserved than but¬ 
 ter, should be extensively used instead in many such climates. 
 
 Butter and honey were, however, common articles of food in 
 the land of Canaan ; and Job, bemoaning his former prosperity, 
 speaks of his steps being washed with butter, and the rock pour¬ 
 ing out rivers of oil. 
 
 As we proceed in the Scripture history, we find that Lot enter¬ 
 tained two angels by making them a feast and baking unleavened 
 bread for them ; concerning which it should be observed that the 
 Israelites were commanded to eat unleavened bread at the Passover, 
 (Exod. xii.) and again in Levit.. (vi. 16,) the same sort of bread is 
 directed to be eaten ; but such bread was eaten only on extraordi¬ 
 nary occasions, or when there was no time to wait for the fermen¬ 
 tation of the dough. The ordinary bread of the Hebrews was 
 prepared with leaven, as many places in the Scriptures testify. 
 
 Venison and kids of the goats were employed in making savoury 
 meat for Isaac ; and pottage of lentiles was given by Jacob to his 
 brother Esau. Indeed, it is quite clear that animal food was 
 largely consumed by the Israelites long before their sojourn in 
 Egypt. 
 
 From this sketch of the early practices of mankind in regard 
 to the use of animal food, one cannot but smile at the efforts of 
 some modern writers who fruitlessly attempt to persuade us that 
 vegetable food is the best and most suitable for man : the affec¬ 
 tation of living upon vegetables alone for a long continuance is a 
 Utopian absurdity, unsuited to the general wants, habits, and 
 feelings of mankind. But while we deprecate the nonsense of 
 confining man to vegetable food only, we deprecate in terms more 
 strong than these the carelessness, nay, the wantonness with 
 which, sorry are we to say, cruelty to animals is often unnecessarily 
 inflicted. To beartlessness of every kind we are sworn enemies ; 
 and to no heartlessness are we more opposed than that which is 
 too often exercised over the brute creation —over those wdio can 
 utter no voice, in words, of complaining, but who nevertheless re¬ 
 cognize and feel the cruelty of their oppressors. See Ornitholo- 
 gia passim, and, particularly in that work, the House-Sparrow's 
 Speech, page 279. See also, concerning vegetable and animal 
 food, some observations in page 239 of the present work. 
 
 Looking to the incidental history of other nations as connected 
 with that of the Israelites, some striking characteristics of cookery- 
 may be observed, particularly in Egypt. It appears, according 
 to the Jewish records, that Pharaoh had both his chief butler 
 and his chief baker ; how many subordinate officers belonging 
 to his royal establishment he also had, we are not informed ; 
 
 b 2 
 
IV 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 but we hear of all manner of baked meats, which were, pro¬ 
 bably, served at his table : we may therefore conclude that not 
 only wine and bread, but meat also must have been in great request 
 in that fertile country. Of grain, the Egyptians had wheat, 
 barley, and rye; of cattle they had oxen, and sheep and goats. 
 
 But it appears from the same records, that the Promised Land, the 
 Land of Canaan, was flowing with milk and honey ; that honey was 
 then greatly esteemed we cannot doubt, although at present it is 
 become of very little importance, the superior cheapness and 
 abundance of sugar having almost entirely superseded the use of 
 honey ; and indeed with good reason; for except that it contains 
 - ome peculiar aroma which depends chiefly upon the kind of 
 flowers from which the bees extract it, essentially it does not differ 
 from sugar. Indeed, it is more apt to disagree with some stomachs 
 than even sugar, when it is refined, and therefore is not, in 
 general, to be preferred to that article. 
 
 We learn from the murmuring of the Israelites in the wil¬ 
 derness, after they had left Egypt, that they thought it would 
 have been better for them to have died there when they sat by the 
 flesh pots and ate bread to the full. The consequence of 
 this was that they were given flesh (namely, quails,) to eat 
 at even, and in the morning they were filled with bread (manna), 
 which they were ordered to bake or to seethe. This bread or manna, 
 we are told, was like coriander-seed, white; and its taste like 
 wafers made with honey. 
 
 The Israelites were, however, restricted in their use of animal 
 food ; and to the present time the Jews comply with the restriction. 
 The rule is that whatsoever parteth the hoof and is cloven-footed, and 
 cheweth the cud among the beasts, may be eaten. Several beasts 
 are mentioned which possess one or more of the above conditions, 
 as the camel, the rabbit, the hare, and swine; all of which they 
 were prohibited from eating. 
 
 Birds of the rapacious tribe, such as eagles, owls, and ravens; 
 and also swans, pelicans, cormorants, the stork, herons, lapwing, 
 and the bat, with some others, were likewise prohibited. The bat, 
 arranged here with the birds, is unquestionably one of the mam¬ 
 malia, and feeds chiefly, if not entirely, on insects ; it is a very 
 useful animal, and on this account ought never to be destroyed. 
 Yet, according to the Tabella Cibaria, page 35, plump and well 
 roasted bats, laid upon a bed of olives, are eaten at the present 
 time in the Levant as a dainty; and Scaliger asserts that their 
 flesh is sweeter and more delicate than the breast of a 
 chicken. Hence, de gustibus nonest disputandum: the French 
 eat frogs; the Sicilians eat, it is said, not only that reptile, but 
 many other animals somewhat out of the ordinary routine 
 of food, as snails, ink-fish, hawks, and jackdaws. The ancient 
 Greeks ate fricasseed hedgehogs; while some of the Indians 
 of North America are known to eat the unwashed entrails of deer 
 that have been just killed. And a pie made with young rooks is 
 considered by many persons a dainty in this country; and even 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 V 
 
 young crows have been made into a pie and eaten. Snails of 
 more than one kind were formerly, and are sometimes now, 
 eaten by some of our rural population under the impression that 
 they are very wholesome. Viper broth was formerly in great 
 request, and formed an article in some of the old dispensatories. 
 The flesh is not, we believe, unwholesome; but Lewis says that 
 he has known a viper taken every day for a month without any 
 apparent benefit. The time for such nostrums and all such animals 
 as food has assuredly passed away. They can only be tolerated 
 when better food cannot be obtained. To return to the Mosaic 
 dispensation. 
 
 Of insects, locusts, the beetle, (what beetle?) and the grasshopper 
 were permitted to be eaten ; all other flying, creeping things which 
 have four legs were declared to be abominations. 
 
 The unclean creeping things are declared to be the weasel, the 
 mouse, and the tortoise; the ferret, the chameleon, the lizard, the 
 snail, and the mole. We are now, however, certain that many 
 other reptiles, the toad for instance, are not fit for the food of man. 
 Of the frog, as we have seen, our Gallic neighbours do occasionally 
 partake; but if we may rely upon the evidence of the modern 
 French cookery books, it is not now in very great request. 
 
 Of the beasts which the Israelites were permitted to eat, the 
 following are named: the ox, the sheep, the goat, the hart, the roe¬ 
 buck, and the fallow-deer ; the wild goat, the pygary , (possibly 
 some species of antelope,) the wild ox, and the chamois. 
 
 Having milk, they had cream and butter; and we find cheese too 
 occasionally mentioned. 
 
 Of fish, all that had fins and scales they were permitted to eat; 
 this regulation is a good one, although we eat eels and a few others 
 which have not scales. The mammalian fishes, such as the por¬ 
 poise, are not good food, and rarely indeed eaten, except by those 
 who have no means of procuring better. 
 
 Concerning these prohibitions and permissions we may observe, 
 first, that possibly the identity of all the animals that are mention¬ 
 ed in the sacred writings has never been nor will be exactly ascer¬ 
 tained ; and hence some mistakes in regard to them might have 
 been made. Although the Gentiles generally, and most Chris¬ 
 tians have departed in many instances from the laws of the Jews 
 concerning animal food, it must nevertheless be admitted that 
 most of the animals which they are permitted to eat are the most 
 wholesome and valuable as food for man which the earth affords. 
 It is true we eat freely the swine, the rabbit, the hare, and the sea-tor¬ 
 toise; but some of these, particularly the swine and the sea-tor¬ 
 toise, are occasionally surfeiting food and very unsuitable for many 
 stomachs. When, therefore, we desire the most stimulant, most 
 wholesome, and substantial animal food, we must have recourse 
 to the sheep and the ox, as the Israelites did and the Jews still do. 
 
 The vegetable food of the Israelites, in the use of which they 
 were not restricted by their laws as in that of animal food, was 
 sufficiently various and at the same time agreeable, particularly 
 
VI 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 their fruits and their corn, which, although usually made into 
 bread, was sometimes, as we have seen, eaten parched. 
 
 Of fruits they had the fig, the grape, the apple, the palm, the 
 olive, and the pomegranate; they had also the hazel and the chest¬ 
 nut, (Gen. xxx. 37 ;) but whether they partook of them we are 
 not exactly informed. Having the palm, they had dates. The fig, 
 the grape, and the olive were beyond question of the most impor¬ 
 tance to them ; and one of the greatest advantages which they 
 possessed was that every one might sit under his own vine, and 
 under his own fig-tree—a luxurious enjoyment in the climate of 
 Judaea. The almond and nuts more or less abounded ; as did also 
 mulberry-trees, (2 Jam. ch. v.) 
 
 Reverting again to Egypt, we may observe that, besides corn, 
 (which grew there in such abundance that it frequently supplied 
 the wants of other countries,) the fig, the grape, and the pomegra¬ 
 nate were known there from the earliest times. The Israelites 
 mention also, in their murmuring in the wilderness, that they ate 
 freely of cucumbers, melons, leeks, onions, and garlic. 
 
 Pot-herbs were also used in more or less abundance. It is 
 remarkable that Moses gave to the Israelites some useful precepts 
 for the cultivation of fruit-trees in that land which he promised 
 them should be flowing with milk and honey. 
 
 Of the condiments which they employed we know little, al¬ 
 though we are certain that they had wine, vinegar, oil, cream, bulter, 
 honey, and doubtless salt. And that they had other strong drink 
 besides wine we are also assured, for when Eli reproved Hannah 
 for being drunken, she replied that she had drunken neither wine 
 nor strong drink. 
 
 We may notice here one early prohibition that was given to 
 Noah immediately after his going forth from the ark, namely, that 
 “ Flesh, with the life thereof, which is the blood thereof, shall ye 
 not eat.” This prohibition is repeated in Leviticus, and again in 
 Deuteronomy. The Jews have therefore always, and do still, we 
 believe, abstain from partaking of the blood of animals however 
 mixed or prepared. We of the Christian world have been, in this 
 respect, less abstemious. There can be no doubt that arterial 
 blood in particular is highly stimulant and nutritious ; yet there 
 seems to be, even among us, if not a natural, a moral antipathy to 
 the employment of blood as human food, which we have no incli¬ 
 nation whatever to remove ; although we find the professed gour¬ 
 mand delighting in the flesh of a have from which the blood has 
 not been abstracted, and whose fumet 
 
 stands upon the very brink 
 Of what some persons call a st:nk !* 
 
 Adverting to the progress of the Israelites till they became an 
 important people, we learn from 1 Samuel, ch. viii. that he shewed 
 them, when they asked for a king, what that king would do for 
 them ; among other things he said that he would take their daugh- 
 
 * See page 242. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Vll 
 
 ters to be confectionaries, and cooks, and bakers; a proof that 
 luxury had made considerable progress among them. We find also 
 that when Jesse sent his son David to some of his brothers, who 
 followed Saul to the battle against the Philistines, he directed 
 him to take to them some parched corn as well as bread, and to 
 the captain of their thousand ten cheeses. 
 
 After David became king, upon one occasion in particular he 
 entertained all the people with a cake of bread, a good piece of 
 flesh, and a flagon of wine. And that considerable knowledge 
 had now been obtained concerning the preparation and preserva¬ 
 tion of food of various kinds we cannot doubt ; among other 
 things, mention is made, 1 Sam. ch. xxv. of two hundred loaves, 
 two bottles of wine, five sheep ready dressed, five measures of parched 
 corn, a hundred clusters of raisins, and two hundred cakes of figs, 
 brought by Abigail to pacify David, during the reign of Saul. 
 
 We pass over the rest of the culinary history of the Israelites 
 during the reign of David, in order to direct the reader’s attention 
 to the more splendid establishments of his son Solomon, during 
 whose reign we may presume that the culinary arts had arrived at 
 considerable perfection. 
 
 And here w'e may observe that, as Solomon had taken to wife a 
 daughter of Pharoah, king of Egypt, it seems extremely proba¬ 
 ble that the luxuries of that country formed a part of his cookery ; 
 and that the many flesh-pots, so feelingly deplored by the Israel¬ 
 ites in the wilderness, were employed for the banquets of the 
 splendid court of Solomon ; for that it was splendid there can be 
 no doubt. “ He had twelve officers over all Israel (we give the exact 
 words of the historian) which provided victuals for the king and his 
 household : each man a month in the year made provision.” And of so 
 much importance were these purveyors, (we may call them with 
 propriety, perhaps, chief cooks,) that the historian names every one 
 of them and the region which pertained to each. And, in conclu¬ 
 ding the enumeration, he tells us that Judah and Israel were 
 many as the sand which is by the sea-side in multitude, eating 
 and drinking, and making merry. We hence conclude that the 
 reign of Solomon constituted the acme of the worldly prosperity 
 of the Israelites, and of their best knowledge of the culinary arts 
 as connected w'ith a powerful and at that time a luxurious people. 
 We must not, however, omit to mention that Solomon’s provision 
 for one day was thirty measures of fine flour, and three-score 
 measures of meal; ten fat oxen and twenty oxen out of the pas¬ 
 tures, and a hundred sheep, besides harts, and roe-bucks, and 
 fallow-deer, and fatted fowl. So that here was every thing which a 
 luxurious gourmand might desire. And thus Judah and Israel 
 dwelt safely every man under his own vine and his own fig-tree, 
 from Dan even to Beer-sheba, all the days of Solomon. 
 
 We are told, too, that Solomoii spake of trees, from the cedar 
 of Lebanon to the hyssop ; and that he spake of beasts, of fowl, 
 and of creeping things, and of fishes ; but none of his writings on 
 these various subjects have come down to us. We have, never¬ 
 theless, some incidental observations in the books attributed to 
 
Vlll 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Solomon that deserve attention ; such are those in Ecclesiastes, 
 where he speaks of vineyards, gardens, and orchards, and fruit- 
 trees . But it is not necessary that we should pursue this sketch 
 of the culinary history of the Israelites farther. Those who desire 
 to obtain more information concerning it will consult the Scrip¬ 
 tures for themselves. 
 
 It is here necessary that we should advert to the culinary arts 
 as practised by some other of the ancient nations : among these the 
 Greeks demand our first attention as an enlightened, and,in some 
 respects, a highly polished people. But the knowledge of this 
 art as practised by the Greeks has come down to us in a very 
 imperfect state ; and no wonder, as we are told by the author for 
 Tabella Cibaria (4to. Sherwood Co. 1820) that cooks at Athens 
 and at other places of Greece and Italy were commonly hired for 
 the occasion, as they did not generally constitute an essential part 
 of a domestic establishment, but, on the contrary, were in very 
 low esteem,- and in fact treated as knaves ; we must not be sur¬ 
 prised, therefore, if the art itself was despised. 
 
 The first Grecian writer to whom we shall turn in this inquiry 
 is Hesiod, who flourished about nine hundred years before the 
 Christian era. Hesiod wrote many works, but one of the chief is 
 on Agriculture, and called Works and Days. In this work, or 
 Poem, as it really is, which it is said Virgil has imitated in his 
 Georgies, we find many useful observations ; some indeed so use¬ 
 ful that they apply equally well to the present as to the times in 
 which they were written. Thus Hesiod says (we quote Cooke’s 
 Translation )— 
 
 “ How great the pleasure wholesome herbs afford ; 
 
 How bless’d the frugal and an honest board.'’—Book i. 
 
 And again, the directions for gathering grapes and rendering them 
 fit for being pressed and made into wine are so apt that it is im¬ 
 possible not to admire the management of the Grecian vintage 
 three thousand years ago. If the reader will take the trouble to 
 refer to our fifteenth chapter, article Cyder, he will there see 
 similar directions for the treatment of the apple. 
 
 “ When in the rosy morn Arcturus shines. 
 
 Then pluck the clusters from the parent vines ; 
 
 Forget not next the ripen'd grapes to lay 
 Ten nights in air, nor take them in by day ; 
 
 Five more remember, ere the wine is made. 
 
 To let them lie to mellow in the shade ; 
 
 And in the sixth briskly yourself employ 
 
 To cask the gift of Bacchus, sire of joy.” — Book ii. 
 
 How a pleasant feast was prepared we may also learn from the 
 same writer :— 
 
 “ With country cates your homely table spread. 
 
 The goat’s new milk and cakes of milk your bread ; 
 
 The flesh of beeves, which browse the trees, your meat : 
 
 Nor spare the tender flesh of kids to eat; 
 
 With Byblian wine the rural feast be crowned ; 
 
 Three parts of water ; let the bowl go round.”—Book ii. 
 
I INTRODUCTION. 
 
 IX 
 
 Byblian wine took its name from a country of Thrace abounding in 
 fine wines ; Theocritus calls it “ the fine-flavoured Byblian.” 
 
 But we shall, perhaps, obtain a more correct notion of early 
 Grecian Cookery from the writings of Homer than from any other 
 author. In the ninth book of his Iliad is a description of a feast 
 given by Achilles to the ambassadors of Agamemnon ; and as its 
 preparation is at once curious and somewhat minute, as translated 
 by Pope, we here present it to the reader. Homer, the reader 
 will remember, flourished about the time of Hesiod. 
 
 * * * Patroclus o’er the blazing fire 
 Heaps in a brazen vase three chines entire ; 
 
 The brazen vase Automedon sustains. 
 
 Which flesh of porket, sheep, and goat contains : 
 
 Achilles at the genial feast presides. 
 
 The part transfixes and with skill divides. 
 
 Meanwhile Patroclus sweats the fire to raise ; 
 
 The tent is brighten’d with the rising blaze ; 
 
 Then w r hen the languid flames at length subside. 
 
 He strews a bed of glowing embers wide. 
 
 Above the coals the smoking fragments turns. 
 
 And sprinkles sacred salt from lifted urns ; 
 
 With bread the glittering canisters they load. 
 
 Which round the board Menoetius’ son bestow’d ; 
 
 Himself, oppos’d t’ Ulysses in full sight. 
 
 Each portion parts and orders every rite. 
 
 The first fat offerings, to the Immortals due. 
 
 Amidst the greedy flames Patroclus threw; 
 
 Then each, indulging in the social feast. 
 
 His thirst and hunger soberly repress’d. 
 
 That done, to Phoenix Ajax gave the sign ; 
 
 Not unperceiv’d ; Ulysses crown’d with wine 
 The foaming bowl.- 
 
 To those who are curious concerning ancient cookery, Homer’s 
 Odyssey will furnish very many amusing particulars, but our limits 
 only allow us to give this general notice of them. But we cannot 
 avoid noticing some of the sentiments that are put into the speech 
 of Telemachus; among others this :— 
 
 “ When lawless gluttons riot, mirth’s a crime.” 
 
 The jars of oil, too, breathing forth a rich perfume; and the 
 casks of wine, with which the palace of Ulysses was stored, and 
 which were reserved till his return, are among the number of the 
 curiosities that the culinary antiquarian will not fail to observe. 
 There is one thing, however, that is striking in all the descriptions 
 of the ancients in regard to wine. It was often, it seems, drunk 
 in bowls; we constantly hear of the foaming bowl; the sparkling 
 bowl, the flowing bowl, the rosy bowl, the mirth-inspiring bowl, fyc.; 
 pure flavorous wines, rich fragrant wines,rosy ivine, the presses foam 
 with floods of wine, the luscious ivine, fyc. That the wines of the 
 ancients were extremely rich and luscious and very often exceed¬ 
 ingly sparkling, we cannot entertain a doubt; they were usually 
 
X 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 mixed with water when drunk, upon ordinary occasions. However, 
 sometimes 
 
 “ Wines unmixed, an honour due to age. 
 
 To cheer the grave and warm the poet’s rage.” 
 
 Odyssey, Book xiii. 
 
 That wine, even iu the favourable climate of Greece, took a 
 considerable time to arrive at perfection we learn from Theo¬ 
 critus :— 
 
 tc Wine flow’d abundant from capacious tuns. 
 
 Matur’d divinely by four summer suns.” 
 
 Fawkes, Idyllium vii. 
 
 Hence we may be assured, that if it took four years to perfect 
 good wine iti the climate of Greece, in our own climate its perfect 
 fermentation is scarcely possible. (See section on English Wines, 
 page 394.) 
 
 In the writings of Theocritus will also be found many things to 
 gratify culinary curiosity ; but he lived much later than either 
 Hesiod or Homer, and although he wrote in Greek, was a native 
 of Syracuse in Sicily, and flourished about 282 years before 
 Christ. He writes chiefly of rural allairs ; he makes, however, 
 his characters cook aud feast tolerably well;— 
 
 “ A sucking pig I dress’d and brace of fowls. 
 
 And fragrant wine produc’d four summers old ; 
 
 Onions and shell-fish last the table crown’d. 
 
 And gaily went the cheering cup around ; 
 
 Then healths were drunk, and each obliged to name 
 The lovely mistress that inspir’d his flame.” 
 
 Fawkes, Idyllium xiv. 
 
 His Idyllium xv. called The Syracus'an Gossips, is well deser¬ 
 ving attention; it may be worth while to give the following 
 couplet: — 
 
 “ With finest meal sweet paste the women make. 
 
 Oil, flowers, and honey mingling in the cake.” 
 
 Once more of Theocritus : whatever might be the fancy of 
 poets, we nevertheless find upon numerous occasions that we can 
 gather from them many facts concerning the habits and manners 
 of mankind. Thus, in his xxivth Idyllium, in describing Young 
 Hercules, he says,— 
 
 “ Roast meat he lov’d at supper to partake. 
 
 The bread he fancied was the Doric cake. 
 
 Enough to satisfy the labouring hind ; 
 
 But still at noon full sparingly he dined.” 
 
 It is somewhat remarkable that many of our agricultural la¬ 
 bourers at the present time adopt a similar method in satisfying 
 their hunger ; namely, to dine sparingly and to eat on their return 
 to their home at night a hot and a full meal. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 XI 
 
 Of Anacreon we have already spoken : he says of nine ,— 
 
 “ To make the beverage divine. 
 
 Mingle sweet roses with the wine.” 
 
 But how they were to be mixed he does not inform us. 
 
 There is an epigram On Company attributed to Anacreon, of 
 which the following is a translation :— 
 
 “ I ne’er can think his conversation good 
 
 Who o’er the-bottle talks of wars and blood ; 
 
 But his whose wit the pleasing talk refines. 
 
 And lovely Venus with the Graces joins.” 
 
 There are also some observations on the method of slaying 
 cattle and the mode of dressing some of the joints in the Argonau- 
 tics of Apollonius Rhodius, but we can merely allude to them, 
 observing that savoury viands, salted cake, and rosy and generous 
 wines, form frequently the repast. 
 
 Besides what has been already observed concerning the cookery 
 of the Greeks, they were also well acquainted with cabbage; but 
 they seemed to treat it rather as a medicinal plant. Chrysippus, 
 indeed, is said to have written a volume concerning it; and Galen 
 has also treated of it- Yet there was an adage among the Greeks, 
 Jic davciTos, “ Twice cabbage, death,” that would indicate it. 
 
 was among them in no great esteem as food; but the author of 
 Tabella Cibaria thinks that the adage can be explained in another 
 way. Whatever the Greeks thought of cabbage, we have, in our 
 days, no apprehension about it, provided it be fresh gathered, 
 properly boiled, and the water in which it has been cooked be 
 immediately thrown away. See page 219 and several of the fol¬ 
 lowing, as well as page 359. The reader who desires to learn more 
 concerning the Crambe or Brassica tribe as regarded by the Greeks , 
 will find many curious particulars in the Tabella Cibaria. 
 
 Of the condiments of the Greeks it is not necessary to say much; 
 they had wine, and oil, and honey ; and Alexander the Great, 
 sent onions from Egypt, so that from Greece they became common 
 over the whole continent of Europe. They had parsley, too, 
 (s-eMvov,) which was in repute in the time of Homer; leeks 
 and garlic, as well as onions, were also the produce of Egypt, 
 and thence all were most probably introduced into Greece. They 
 must have had, too, some of the mints and other sweet herbs. 
 Salt appears to have been almost every where, as well in ancient 
 as in modern times, a condiment. The Greeks must also have 
 had vinegar; their wine, when sour, became that agreeable 
 condiment, o^o;, the acclum of the Romans. They had also 
 their yu; ov, garum, a sauce or pickle made from salted fish. 
 And besides other fish the Athenians held oysters in great esteem. 
 Of butter the Greeks knew little ; it is said that they bought it 
 ready made from the Parthians under the name of oil of milk. 
 When good olive oil can be obtained and kept so readily, in warm 
 climates butter must be comparatively a useless article. That the 
 Greeks had pepper we cannot doubt ; and probably some other of 
 the spices besides cinnamon. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xii 
 
 The progress of the Greeks in the art of cookery was for a long 
 time slow, as that of mo9t nations in the early part of their career 
 almost invariably is ; they were, therefore, for a long time con¬ 
 tented with rude and simple cookery of the most simple food, 
 such as roasted acorns, barley, or other corn, which, before mills 
 were invented, was roasted in hot embers, or parched upon the 
 hearth, and then, after being beaten into a coarse powder, made 
 into a paste and dried into hard lumps or loaves. 
 
 When cooking animals, the brain was never eaten, that being 
 considered as a sort of sacred part; but the entrails made a com¬ 
 mon dish. The meat in the early times was served upon dishes of 
 wood, or of brass for the better sort of persons. They usually 
 drank their wine, when taken at their meals, mixed with water; 
 they afterwards drank it pure. Their first drinking cups were made 
 of horn ; they afterwards used cans, which were made of ivy. 
 Their dessert consisted of nuts, fruits, and all sorts of junkets. 
 
 It is said that they partook of only one meal a-day in the early 
 period of their history, and that was supper ; but that afterwards 
 they partook of refreshment as often as three or four times a-day. 
 Their first meal was the acratisma , or breakfast ; the second 
 ariston , or dinner ; and the third dorpon, or supper. To these 
 some writers add deipnon ,. a repast between dinner and the last 
 meal. 
 
 Notwithstanding professed cooks were not kept in the houses of 
 ordinary citizens, it is said that the cook constituted one of the 
 chief officers both at a sacrifice and at a feast. It is time, however, 
 that we should leave ancient Greece; but this we cannot do 
 without calling to the reader’s recollection a part of Byron’s 
 address to Modern Greece. 
 
 “ Sweet are thy groves and verdant are thy fields. 
 
 Thine olive ripe as when Minerva smil’d. 
 
 And still his honied wealth Hymettus yields ; 
 
 There the blithe bee his fragrant fortress builds. 
 
 The free-born wanderer of the mountain air, 
 
 Apollo still thy long, long summer gilds. 
 
 And Nature still is fair.” 
 
 Proceed we now to the more abundant, more luxurious, and 
 much better known cookery practised formerly by the mistress of 
 the world, ancient Rome. 
 
 The Romans and some other ancient nations had a notion that the 
 earth in their time was old and worn, or fast wearing, out; that in 
 its youth, in what has been called the Saturnian Times, the Golden 
 Age, every thing was produced without trouble ; that then 
 
 “ Unlaboured harvests did the fields adorn. 
 
 And clustered grapes then blush’d on every thorn.” 
 
 Virgil’s 4th Eclogue, as translated by Dryden. 
 
 Lucretius too tells us that 
 
 “At first earth, corn, and wine, and oil did bear. 
 
 And tender fruit without the tiller’s care.” 
 
1 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Xlll 
 
 A glorious time certainly, according to a Roman’s notion of 
 idleness: but the more correct knowledge of the present day 
 informs us that the best happiness is that produced by the com¬ 
 bined exertions of mind and body. Even if corn, wine, and oil 
 were produced for us without labour, our corn, at least, must be 
 cooked to be rendered suitable for us ; in fact, the grape and the 
 olive both require a sort of cooking to be rendered tit for human 
 aliment. Lucretius well perceived our actual wants: 
 
 “ And little too is needful to maintain 
 
 The body sound in health and free from pain. 
 
 Not delicates, but such as may supply 
 Contented nature’s thrifty luxury. 
 
 She asks no more.” 
 
 Cookery among the Romans, as the Israelites and the Greeks, 
 was at first simple; and then, as wealth increased and many of 
 the citizens became rich, they had their professed cooks ; indeed 
 it is said that there was a cook at Rome to whom a salary of four 
 talents was paid ; that is, 864 pounds sterling of our money ; 
 and that Marc Antony was so well satisfied with one of his cooks 
 at a repast given to Cleopatra, that he rewarded him with a 
 municipium, or corporate town, for his culinary accomplishments. 
 
 Most of the opulent citizens displayed their wealth and their 
 luxuries chiefly at their villas in the country. These villas con¬ 
 sisted of what they called urban a, that is, the house with its 
 various apartments, &c.; the kijstica were for the servants , slaves, 
 stables, &c.; and the fructuakia consisted of wine and oil-cellars, 
 barns, granaries, &c. &c. Near the rustica, places were appro¬ 
 priated for keeping birds of many kinds, such as fowls, geese, 
 ducks, wild fowl, &c. besides dormice, pigs, hares, rabbits, bees, 
 snails, Jisli, &c. They had also a sort of park or vivarium, in which 
 game, deer, and wild animals were kept; these were sometimes 
 intermingled with orchards and vineyards. They had also kitchen 
 gardens ; and forcing frames for cucumbers, &c. over which were 
 placed specularia, or thin plates of stone, or of talc, which 
 admitted to a certain extent the light. Their hot-houses were 
 warmed by flues; which were also placed under their apartments 
 to warm them instead of an open fire. 
 
 Of the luxurious living of some of the Roman citizens much 
 has been said by many writers. Lucullus was a military man, and 
 had appointments both in Asia and Africa, where he greatly 
 distinguished himself; and from Asia he brought the cherry, 
 the peach, and the apricot. But while he was admired for his 
 accomplishments, military and literary, his extravagance of 
 living exceeded all ordinary bounds. In his retirement he had 
 caves and passages dug under the hills on the coast of Campania, 
 and the sea-water was conveyed around his house and pleasure 
 grounds, where it is said the fishes flocked in such abundance 
 that not less than 25,000 pounds’ worth were sold at his death. 
 
XIV 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Of the Apicii three have heen named, all more or less great 
 gourmands; “ but not otherwise known at Rome than on account 
 of their unparalleled love of good living and their sumptuous 
 tables; to gratify their pride they sometimes presented ragofits 
 exclusively composed of tongues of peacocks and nightingales.” 
 A work written by Apicips Ccelius, entitled Apicii Ccelii de 
 Opsoiiiis ei Condimentis sire Arte Coquinarid, is still in existence ; 
 and which, according to the author of the Tabella Cibaria, 
 “ though exceedingly curious, gives a disgusting idea of what 
 the art of cookery must have been among the Romans.” 
 
 It is said that Apicius Ccelius spent more than sixty thousand 
 pounds sterling merely to vary the taste of sauces ; and finding, 
 after many other expensive experiments, that his great fortune 
 was much reduced, he destroyed himself. 
 
 Apicius, the third of that name, was very fond of oysters, for 
 which he paid an enormous price ; those from the Lucrine lake, 
 Brundusium and Abydos, on the Hellespont, were esteemed the 
 best, and as such were sent as presents to great men.* They 
 were not, however, common at Rome, and therefore were very 
 dear; but Macrobius tells us that the Roman pontiffs had them 
 at their tables every day. Tabella Cibaria, pages 15, G7. 
 
 To conclude our short catalogue ruisonnd of Roman gourmands, 
 Vitf.lltus the Ernperor was treated by his brother Lucius at 
 a feast, among other food, with two thousand dishes of fish and 
 seven thousand dishes of poultry. It is also stated that in four 
 months he spent above seven millions sterling upon his table alone. 
 This imperial gourmand was, however, soon deposed and slain by 
 the Roman people. 
 
 The discoveries made in excavating the town of Pompeii, near 
 Naples, which was destroyed by an eruption of Mount Vesuvius, 
 a. d. 79, that is, above 1700 years ago, have coniributed not a 
 little to inform us concerning many of the arts which were prac¬ 
 tised when Home was in the zenith of her power. Pompeii was 
 covered w'ith loose mud, pumice stone, and ashes, and not lava. 
 Three baker's shops have been discovered in a tolerable state of 
 preservation ; the mills, the oven, the kneading troughs, vessels 
 for water, flour, and leaven. The mill-stones were rude, and 
 were turned, it is said, by hand: among the Romans the lowest 
 grades of society were thus employed. Asses were occasion¬ 
 ally, and water-mills sometimes employed. The oven is said 
 to have been formed with considerable attention to the economy 
 of heat. But although bread-corn was the chief article of 
 food at that period, bread itself was not of an early date ,• 
 for the Romans ate their corn for a long time soddened into 
 
 * This Apicius, who lived under Trajan, discovered the secret of 
 preserving oysters fresh, which he sent to that prince from Parthia, 
 and they arrived in excellent condition. The name of Apicius was also 
 applied to various ragouts, and in fact, it is said, constituted the name 
 of a sect among the gourmands of Rome. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 XV 
 
 pap; there were no bakers at Rome before A. u. 580, previous to 
 which every family made its own bread ; this was done by the 
 women except when there happened to be men-cooks. After the 
 invention of bread, it was long before mills were known, the 
 grain being bruised in mortars ; the bread was sometimes baked 
 in moulds, several of which have been found as well as the loaves, 
 which were flat, and about eight inches in diameter. 
 
 The fruits and vf.getables which were cultivated by the 
 ancient Romans in the height of their luxurious prosperity, were 
 very numerous. They had the sweet and bitter almonds; apples, 
 more than twenty kinds; several sorts of cherries; chesnuts ; Jigs ; 
 medlars ; mulberries ; nuts ; pears, more than thirty sorts ; plums 
 of many kinds; quinces ; services; strawberries, but it is said they 
 were not good ; icalnuts; they had vines and olives, of course, 
 to both of which great attention was paid. They had several 
 of the gourd tribe, as cucumbers, melons, and some others. They 
 had also, in the later periods of their prosperity, the citron, and 
 perhaps the lemon, although Virgil wrote— 
 
 “ Shaip-tasted citrons median climes produce ; 
 
 Ritter the rind, but generous is the juice.” 
 
 Dryden, Georgies, b. ii. 
 
 But the orange was not cultivated in Italy till the fourteenth 
 century. They had also the peach ; and the apricot is mentioned 
 by Dioscorides, who lived in the time of Nero, under the name 
 of prcecocia. All of these last-named fruits are natives of Asia, 
 whence they were brought to Italy. 
 
 Of culinary vegetables and condiments they had several sorts; 
 they had also peas, beans, the kidney bean, and asparagus; the 
 turnip, the carrot, the parsnip, beet, skirret, and the radish; 
 sorrel; the onion, garlic, and the leek; endive, lettuce, succory, 
 and mustard. Concerning cabbage, a striking anecdote has been 
 related, namely, that when the Emperor Diocletian had resigned 
 the sceptre and retired to his native province, employing himself 
 in building, planting, &c., Maximian urged him to re assume the 
 reins cf government ; but he refused, alleging that if lie couhl 
 shew him the cabbages which he had planted with his own hands 
 at Salona, he would not urge him to quit such happiness for 
 power; that, in fact, he took more delight in cultivating his 
 little garden than he formerly enjoyed in a palace. Cincinnatus 
 left his plough, being chosen dictator, and returned when his 
 mission was accomplished, to plough his fields again. 
 
 A curious etymology of the word mustard has been mentioned 
 by the author of the Tabella Cibaria, namely, that as mustard was 
 a hot seed and its quality expressed by multum ardet, it burns 
 much, it was expressed in old French by moult aide, and thus 
 became corrupted to mustard. ' 
 
 The Romans had many of the pot and sweet herbs, as parsley, 
 fennel, chew'll, &c. ; they had also mushrooms and some of the 
 
XVI 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 sea-weed tribe, with several kinds of grain, as wheat, beans, millet, 
 barley and rice* which were regularly sown in their fields, as 
 may be seen by reference to the Georgies of Virgil. 
 
 Besides oil, wine, cream, and perhaps occasionally butter, 
 they had honey, and used it for the most part the same as we now 
 do sugar; and although Pliny speaks of sugar as being produced 
 in Arabia and India, saccharum Arabia fert, sed laudatius India, 
 and Lucretius of the sweet juices of the seed or cane, dulces in 
 arundine sued; yet, from the great attention paid to honey and 
 the protection of the bee, it seems probable that sugar was among 
 them in very little esteem. Indeed Virgil has devoted the whole 
 of his fourth Georgic to the management of the Bee. These are 
 the introductory lines to the Georgics, as translated by 
 Dryden. 
 
 “ What makes a plenteous harvest, when to turn 
 The fruitful soil, and when to sow the corn ; 
 
 The care of sheep, of oxen, and of kine ; 
 
 And how to raise on elms the teeming vine ; 
 
 The birth and genius of the frugal bee, 
 
 I sing, Maecenas, and I sing to thee/’ t 
 
 That they had several foreign condiments we cannot doubt, such 
 as pepper; and some of the spices, as cinnamon ; the first is men¬ 
 tioned by Persius, (Tolle recens primus piper e sitiente camelo, Sat. 
 x.) and the second by Pliny. 
 
 Some of the animals they employed as food are mentioned 
 above; but to the tribes of oxen, sheep, and goats, with their 
 calves and kids, constant attention was paid ; animals of the deer 
 kind were in request: the wild boar was eaten, so were domes¬ 
 ticated foicls, &c. ; but, according to Martial, the hare was 
 the chief among the quadrupeds, as was the thrush among the 
 birds. 
 
 “ Inter ares turdus, si quit me judice certet, 
 
 Inter quadmpedes gloria prima lepus.” 
 
 The flamingo, called by the ancients Phxnicopterus, was also 
 
 * Same hoc ptisanarium orryzac, Horat. lib. ii. 3. 
 
 f The chief errors in the Georgics of Virgil are those which direct 
 that agricultural operations should be performed on certain days only, as 
 “ The lucky days in each revolving moon 
 
 For labour choose : the fifth be sure to shun.” 
 
 Than this nothing can be more puerile. Such superstitions pervaded, 
 more or less, almost the wdiole of ancient Grecian and Roman Lite¬ 
 rature, and unfortunately have been too copiously prinkled over 
 our own: they still pervade, in some degree, the minds of our 
 rural and illiterate population ; but the SCHOOLMASTER is abroad, and 
 will, we trust, get rid of such follies, and show even the most 
 ignorant that Gardening and Cookery may have reason for their 
 guide. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 XVII 
 
 a bird in high repute as food among the Romans ; that Apicius, 
 according to Pliny, discovered the exquisite relish of the flamin¬ 
 go’s tongue, and a new method of seasoning it! But modern times 
 seem to have very much neglected tins bird except as an article 
 of curiosity ; one was exhibited alive in the Zoological Gardens in 
 the Regent’s Park ; but it did not live long. 
 
 It is remarkable that milk, &c. was employed by the Romans as 
 a sort of syllabub, as the following couplet of Virgil proves : we 
 must not forget that they had not, as far as we know, acquired the 
 art of distilling the spirit from wine or any other fermented liquor, 
 and hence one of the reasons why wine is so much extolled in all 
 the writings of the ancients. 
 
 “ Let every swain adore her* power divine. 
 
 And milk and honey mix. with sparkling wine.” 
 
 Dkyden, Georgies, B. i. 
 
 Eggs were in some request by the Romans ; those of the pea¬ 
 cock were considered a great dainty ; it is said that Q. Hortensius 
 paid twenty-pence for each egg, many of which were brought to 
 his table when he became augur. They formed also a part of the 
 first course at the Roman entertainments ; hence the proverb 
 ab ovo usque ad mala, —from the egg to the apple, or from the 
 beginning to the end. 
 
 Of Pastry too the Romans were very fond. According to 
 Athen,eiis, it w r as at first nothing more than a finer sort of 
 bread, to which honey, sweetmeats, comfits, and preserved fruits 
 were added. So that we may easily guess it was formed of simi¬ 
 lar indigestible materials to the pastry of the present time. See 
 more concerning ancient pastry in the Tabella Cibaria, page 90. 
 
 We may judge a little of the cookery of the Romans from 
 Juvenal’s eleventh satire, where he describes an entertainment to 
 which he invites his friend Persicus: the description begins thus :— 
 
 “ Ike Tiburtino veniet pinguissimus agro 
 
 Hasdulus, et toto grege mollior, inscius herbee ,” &c. 
 
 But we will avail ourselves of the translation of this Bill of Fare, 
 made by Congreve. 
 
 ■- “ From my own small farm the tenderest kid 
 
 And fattest of my flock, a suckling yet 
 That ne’er had nourishment but from the teat; 
 
 No bitter willow-tops have been its food, 
 
 Scarce grass ; its veins have more of milk than blood j 
 Next that shall mountain ’sparagus be laid,f 
 Pull’d by some plain but cleanly country-maid. 
 
 * Ceres, the goddess of corn and harvest. 
 
 t Asparagus was occasionally gathered on the mountains by the country 
 people. We find also, that sometimes lobsters were served up with aspa¬ 
 ragus at Rome, Juvenal, sat. v., and that the crab (cammarus ) was also 
 occasionally there eaten. On turning to the British Poets, vol. xii. page 
 
XV1I1 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The largest eggs yet warm within the nest. 
 
 Together with the hens which laid them, drest. 
 
 Clusters of grapes preserved for half a year, 
 
 Which plump and fresh as on the vines appear ; 
 
 Apples, of a ripe flavour, fresh and fair, 
 
 Mixt with the Syrian and the Lignian pear, 
 
 Mellow’d by winter from their cruder juice. 
 
 Light of digestion now and fit for use.’’’ 
 
 The satirist then goes on to state that such food as this would 
 have been formerly accounted riot in a senator; but that now 
 scarcely a slave has a dinner in which are not the well-dressed 
 paps of a pregnant sow. Heretofore, continues he, it was thought 
 a sumptuous treat even on birth-days and other festivals to prepare 
 a salt, dry flitch of bacon ; if they had fresh meat , it was delici¬ 
 ous fare! Of some of the ornaments of the dinner table among 
 the luxurious Romans, we may judge by the Satirist’s negatives in 
 the following lines : 
 
 “ No side-boards then with gilded plate were dress’d ; 
 
 No sweating slaves with massy dishes press’d ; 
 
 Expensive riot was not understood, 
 
 But earthen platters held the homely food.” 
 
 Concerning the Fish eaten by the Romans, it is necessary that 
 a word or two should be said. As in their gfeat prosperity they 
 had the command of nearly the whole Mediterranean, and most 
 of the rivers which empty themselves into it, there can be no 
 doubt that they availed themselves of the opportunity which such 
 sources of obtaining fish atforded them. At the present time fifty 
 different kinds of fish are caught in the vicinity of Tarento; and 
 we have no reason to suppose that they were not as numerous in 
 ancient times. The Romans specifically mention the salmon, the 
 sturgeon, the turbot, the eel, the lamprey, the mullet, the carp, &c., 
 and also the herring, (alec or halee,) but this word has been 
 rather thought to apply to all kinds of small flsh as well as some¬ 
 times to a pickle made from their entrails, &c. Hence some per¬ 
 sons translate the word alec, found in Horace, anchovy, a fish 
 which the modern Italians have in great perfection, and whence 
 they are imported in small barrels, salted, to this county, 
 (England,) as a bonne bouche well known to all gourmands. 
 That the Romans sometimes obtained fish from the Euxine Sea, 
 part of a line from Persius informs us, super das advelie Ponto. The 
 saperda is said to have been an indifferent fish ; but it is probable 
 
 680, is a translation of Juvenal by Mr. Bowles, where we find that 
 squilla, which means, no doubt, a lobster, ( Quae fertur domino squilla ; et 
 quibye undique septa asparayis—Delphin edit, of 1722, now before us,) 
 has been translated sturgeon. This is murdering an ancient with a ven¬ 
 geance. The Romans had, most probably, the sturgeon at their tables 
 occasionally ; hut they called that fish acipenser. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 XIX 
 
 that other fish, such as the sturgeon, might have been obtained 
 from the same sea, if not in the Mediterranean. Oysters, lobsters, 
 and crabs have been mentioned above. They had also the mus¬ 
 sel, the cray , and several other shell-fish. We shall dismiss the 
 Roman cookery with a summary of a supper given by a Roman 
 miser, and described by Horace (sat. viii. lib. ii.) In a previous 
 satire he gives some directions for choosing eggs and cabbage, and 
 how to make a tough old hen tender by immersing it in Falernian 
 w T ine. Kis directions for choosing eggs and cabbage we do not 
 approve; but those for mushrooms are similar to our own: (see 
 page 231.) 
 
 Pratensibus optima funyis 
 Natura est : aids male creditur. 
 
 “ Meadow mushrooms are of the best kind ; others have an ill 
 credit.” 
 
 1 he supper consisted of a icild boar * (Lucanus aper,) surrounded 
 with pungent condiments, such as rapa, lettuce, radishes, skirrets, 
 anchovies, and dregs of sour wine or vinegar. Then, when these 
 had been to a certain extent demolished, wines of various kinds 
 were introduced, such as Ccecubum, Chinan, Alban, and Falernian. 
 Then came fowls, oysters, and fish: 
 
 Nos, inqaam, ccenamus ares, conchylia , pisces. 
 
 of which we partook, says the historian : while Porcius became 
 ridiculous by swallowing whole cakes without any manducation. 
 A turbot and a plaice (or flounder) made also a part of this 
 supper. A lamprey surrounded with floating shrimps was next 
 brought in: 
 
 Affertur squillas inter murcena natantes. 
 
 These were mixed up W'ith oil and pickle ( garo) from the juices 
 of Iberian fish and wine of five years old. White pepper, rocket, 
 and elecampane, contributed their aid as condiments. 
 
 But, unfortunately, in the midst of the feast the tapestry 
 fell down and spoiled the entertainment; and thus ended our 
 ! miser’s supper! and thus must we end our description ; those 
 who desire to know more concerning the feast will refer to 
 Horace. 
 
 Italian Cookery. Notwithstanding the decline and fall of 
 the Roman Government, when, in the fourth century, the seat of 
 the empire was transferred by Constantine from Rome to 
 Byzantium, called from that period Constantinople ; and the subse¬ 
 quent irruptions of the Goths and Vandals of the north of Europe, 
 some knowledge of the luxurious cookery of the Romans re- 
 
 * Horace does not infoim us how this wild boar was dressed, but, we 
 suppose, rousted or baked ; we conclude also that it was a young one. 
 
XX 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 mained among the Italians through many ages. Of that, or even 
 of the modern cookery of Italy our notice cannot be extensive, 
 although in this country we have Italian warehouses where many 
 of the produciions of Italy are to be obtained.* We have an 
 excellent work called the Italian Confectioner, or Complete Eco¬ 
 nomy of Desserts, by G- J. Jarrin, a book far in advance of 
 any which have heretofore appeared on this branch of the art. 
 We must, nevertheless, request the reader to refer to what we 
 have said in our Xlth, XI 1th, and XHIth chapters concern¬ 
 ing the art of the confectioner. 
 
 According to Loudon, Encyclopedia of Gardening, page 22, 
 although the Italians have increased the varieties of the species 
 of fruit cultivated by the Romans, they have made few additions 
 to the original sorts, if we except the orange and the pine-apple. 
 The orange is supposed to have been introduced between the time 
 of Pliny and Palladius. Of this fruit they have a great many 
 varieties: at Florence and Milan they require housing in the 
 winter; but at Nice, Genoa, and Nervi they bear the common 
 winter in the open air. Peaches grow in the vicinity of Rome 
 and at Naples on standard trees, and arrive at great perfection; 
 in this fruit the Italians excel; they have few nectarines or 
 apricots, and not many plums; their gages are, however, very good. 
 Cherries are also plenty and good, especially in Tuscany. The 
 gooseberry, the currant, the raspberry, and strawberry, all of 
 which except the gooseberry are natives of the Appenines, thrive 
 but indifferently in Italian gardens. Apples and pears are good in 
 the north, but indifferent in the warmer parts. Services abound in 
 Piedmont and Lombardy. Melons are very line ; near Rome and 
 Naples the love-apple, egg-plant, and capsicum are cultivated for 
 the kitchen. The potatoe grows well every where; cauliflowers 
 and the broccolis are also good. But in consequence of the dry¬ 
 ness of the climate many otherculinary vegetables are indifferent; 
 indeed their value, according to Loudon, is not known to the 
 greater part of the wealthy Italians ; but this is in some sort made 
 up by their very exquisite fruits, nuts, and almonds. 
 
 Almost the only plants found in cottage gardens in Italy are 
 gotirds and Indian corn ;—in Tuscany and Lombardy some of the 
 cabbage tribe, the kidney bean, and occasionally the potatoe in the 
 garden of the farmer is somewhat better. 
 
 The vine, the olive, and the_/?g belong to the rural economy of the 
 country, as well as corn of most kinds. 
 
 Besides oxen, sheep, and goats, the Italians have deer; as well 
 
 * Such as olive-oil, preserved olives, Sc c. An ingenious friend of ours 
 contends that olives are very wholesome ; and he accounts for this by the pro¬ 
 cess which they undergo in being preserved or rather pickled : they are 
 placed between layers of wood-ashes, the carbonate of potash or other 
 alkali in which combines with the oil of the olives, and forms with it a 
 sort of soap. We cannot agree with this doctrine, or consider the 
 unripe olive a wholesome condiment. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 XXI 
 
 as the wild boar, the ibex, and other animals of the chase in their 
 woods and upon their mountains. 
 
 Fish are numerous. The tunny fishery has always been more 
 or less extensive in most parts of the Mediterranean. They are 
 frequently salted and exported to various places. The abdomen 
 is reckoned the most delicate part; it is cut up, preserved, and sold 
 to the citizens of Rome under the name of taremtello. 
 
 The young tunny under a year old was called pelamis by the 
 ancients ; they enter annually from the Black Sea in shoals now as 
 formerly, and are taken in large quantities in various parts of the 
 Mediterranean.* 
 
 A country having so many different governments, and situated in 
 different climates, from the cold regions of the Alps to the warmth 
 of the Calabrias, presents a considerable variety in its food and 
 the preparation of it. 
 
 There is Venice, that was once, according to Byron, 
 
 “ The pleasant place of all festivity. 
 
 The revel of the earth, the masque of Italy/' 
 
 There is “ Etrurian Athens,” as Byron calls Florence ; 
 
 “ Girt by her theatre of hills, she reaps 
 
 Her corn, her wine and oil, and plenty leaps 
 To laughing life.” 
 
 There is Rome, that “city of the soul,” where may now be read 
 “ the moral of all human tales.” 
 
 There is Naples, encircled with its beautiful vineyards, and the 
 terrible Vesuvius frowning near ; whence, with a bound, we may 
 alight on Sicily, and there survey the immense chestnut groves of 
 Etna ; then with a lightning glance let the orange groves and olive 
 yards of Nice arise before us; and passing these behold the 
 marshy rice fields in the vicinity of Turin ; while a stride over 
 mount Cenis will afford us excellent trout. 
 
 As Sicily is closely connected with Italy and Naples, we shall 
 look at the cookery of this island first. 
 
 The Sicilians are said to be generally temperate, although there 
 are occasional exceptions. At an entertainment the guests taste of 
 all the dishes which are handed round to them by the servants 
 after being carved. The feasts of the great begin with soup 
 followed by maccaroni, vegetables variously dressed, and shell 
 fish. During the different courses the table remains garnished 
 with plates of raw ham, anchovies, olives, and fresh figs and 
 melons when in season ; then come bouilli, huge fish, made dishes, 
 roast meats, salad, luscious pastry, and, lastly, fruit and coffee. 
 
 * For Careme’s opinion of the Cookery of Italy, see forward, ander the 
 Cookery of France. 
 
 1 
 
 
XXII 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Wine is plentifully drunk during the repast. Every one rises 
 with the ladies ; this practice greatly contributes to prevent excess. 
 A rage to excel in the size of their fish at grand entertainments 
 yet exists : a whole tunny surrounded with mullet is sometimes 
 placed upon the festive board. 
 
 Besides these, snails, ink-fish, frogs, hawks, jackdaws, and 
 small birds of every kind are eaten ; maccaroni with cheese 
 grated over it is the favourite dish of all classes. A great deal 
 of that consumed in this country is manufactured here by Jews. 
 
 The Sicilian bread is very line ; it is strewed over with the 
 sweet seeds of an indigenous plant, the Gengiolina. They eat 
 great quantities of salads, fruit pulse and vegetables, with 
 such condiments as cinnamon and other spices, sugar, oil, and 
 garlic. 
 
 Their usual drinks are light wines, lemonade, and orgeat; to 
 beer and tea they are strangers except medicinally. Iced creams 
 are daily taken ; and iced water at their meals corrected sometimes 
 by zambu, a spirit distilled from aniseed. 
 
 Sicily was the granary of ancient Rome, and is still capable of 
 supporting a population much larger than its own. Corn is the 
 main produce of the island, and is kept in public magazines, in some 
 places in excavations of rocks, made water-proof. It has been kept 
 good in such places for a century. The olive grows to a larger size 
 than in Italy ; the tree has attained sometimes the age of seven or 
 eight hundred years. The oil obtained from it is nevertheless very 
 indifferent, being fit only for soap. The Pistachio nut is also 
 cultivated ; and a large bean which supplies the place of potatoes, 
 and forms a considerable portion of the food of both men and 
 animals. Honey is also in much estimation. The vineyards 
 are well cultivated ; Marsala produces a wine well known in 
 various parts of the world. Of cattle the sheep is the prin¬ 
 cipal. 
 
 In Palermo the mode of living of the higher ranks differs little 
 from those of Naples. 
 
 The Sicilian peasantry are, however, extremely poor, and live 
 miserably ; worse than even those of Calabria : see forward. 
 
 Maccaroni , the chief food of the poorer and the favourite dish 
 of all classes of Neapolitans, is made from a small hard-grained 
 wheat grown in that part of Russia which borders on the Black 
 Sea, and is shipped at Odessa and Taganrok. The grano duro, the 
 name given to that wheat by the Neapolitans, is now cultivated in 
 Apulia, and is brought from several ports of the Adriatic to Na¬ 
 ples: the best maccaroni is made entirely of the grano duro ; but 
 sometimes inferior qualities contain also soft wheat. The macca¬ 
 roni is in long round strings about the size of a tobacco pipe; 
 these strings are made by a very simple process : the wheat being 
 coarsely ground is mixed with water only, then well kneaded into 
 a tenacious dough and passed through a number of holes by 
 pressui'e, the sizes of which determine the name to be given to the 
 substance : that of the largest diameter is called maccaroni; the 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 XXIU 
 
 smaller vermicelli; and the smallest fedelini. Besides these some 
 of the dough is made into a kind of ribands, other is made like 
 sheets of paper, some into round balls, &c., to all of which dis¬ 
 tinctive names are assigned. Maccaroni is also made at Genoa; 
 but the best is said to be that made about La Torre del Greco and 
 La Torre Annunziata, two towns near Naples; thence it is exported 
 in considerable quantity. 
 
 In respectable Neapolitan families maccaroni is on the dinner- 
 table twice a week —in many every day. It is dressed in various 
 ways ; but it is usually boiled in water till it acquires a greenish 
 tinge, a quarter of an hour is generally employed, care being 
 taken not to break the strings, as its length constitutes much of its 
 beauty. When done, it is strained off and then saturated with 
 some strong meat gravy, sprinkled throughout with finely grated 
 cheese, and served up in a tureen in unbroken strings. Sometimes, 
 instead of gravy, the maccaroni is served up with a little butter, 
 grated cheese, and the addition of tomato-sauce. It is said that 
 thus prepared it is nutritious and easy of digestion. But we 
 doubt whether fifteen minutes’ boiling can be sufficient to render 
 maccaroni a proper food for the human stomach. 
 
 That the lower classes of the Neapolitans, who are perhaps too 
 often on the verge of intense hunger, not to say starvation, may 
 find it suitable for them we entertain no doubt; more especially 
 as they are very often obliged to be satisfied with Indian corn 
 flavoured with onions or garlic, or with greens boiled in water 
 and a lump of lard thrown in to flavour them; and more especi¬ 
 ally as many do not obtain any meat for months together; hence 
 maccaroni becomes a delectable treat and esteemed a substitute 
 for every eatable. The venders of this commodity are established 
 in every corner of the city of Naples. 
 
 The land in the vicinity of Naples is well cultivated ; it is 
 chiefly covered with vines trained to pollard elm-trees. Beneath, 
 wheat and other crops are raised which are not much injured by 
 the vines, although the bread of Naples is not so white as that of 
 Spain or France. 
 
 The wines are many of them strong, but scarcely any have 
 much flavour, from the absence of some essential oil to which 
 the flavour is chiefly owing, and which constitutes what the 
 French call Bouquet. Lachryma Christi wine is made on Vesu¬ 
 vius; it is a fine wine when kept some years, and is obtained 
 both red and ichite. See wine generally, pages 245 and 394. 
 
 Corn is trodden out by either cattle or horses, and in this 
 part of Italy as well as in Sicily it is still kept in subterranean 
 chambers in many places. The shepherds in the Abruzzi lead 
 literally a pastoral life,_and are supported by the most frugal 
 fare, their supper often consisting of bread made of Indian corn, 
 raw onions, and a little wine. They make, however, various 
 kinds of cheese from sheep, cow, and buffalo milk, lor which 
 they are famed. 
 
 In the province of Naples, called by some Campania the Blest, 
 
XXIV 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 rows of elms and mulberry trees are festooned with the vine ; the 
 fig, the lemon, and the orange flourish in the gardens, while the 
 sides of the mountains are covered with forests of chestnut-trees 
 that afford an important article of food for the poor ; the declivi¬ 
 ties are occupied by the olive. The farmer is a peasant; the 
 whole family eat with their fingers out of the same dish, and 
 drink out of the same glass. Pot-houses or wine-shops are very 
 numerous, and to these, as in other countries, the idlers resort. 
 
 The grapes when ripe are gathered and then bruised in a vat 
 by the feet of a man ; the liquor then drains into another vat, in 
 which it ferments. 
 
 A Calabrian peasant will dine off a handful of lupines, a few 
 chestnuts, ar.d two ounces of bread. When he can afford to drink 
 the common wine, he pays from one penny to two pence per quart 
 for it. They can rarely afford to purchase animal food, or cheese, 
 or butter. 
 
 It should be here also mentioned that wild pigeons are taken in 
 large numbers, in September and October, near La Cava, a town 
 situated in a defile of the mountains. 
 
 The abstemiousness cf the Mediterranean sailors is surprising : 
 bread, leguines, olives, salt-fish, and a little maccaroui, are their 
 sole support; they rarely taste meat. 
 
 The climate of Calabria varies according to its situation : in the 
 sheltered plains are the sugar-cane, aloes, and the date. It has 
 also grain of every kind and wine, which, if properly managed, 
 would be equal to any perhaps in the world. The olive is in 
 profusion, and its oil is kept in cisterns dug in the earth or out of 
 the rock. Liquorice-root grows wild, and manna abounds in the 
 forests. Immense droves of horned cattle exist, and their 
 flocks are as numerous as their herds. Game of every sort is 
 also abundant. Fish is in great plenty; the sword-fish itself sup¬ 
 plies food to a large number of the inhabitants, and the tunny 
 forms a lucrative branch of commerce ; but amidst all these na¬ 
 tural advantages the peasantry are wretched ; the pigs live fami¬ 
 liarly with the inmates of the cottage ; all appears misery and 
 almost desolation. 
 
 Among the animals of the chase the wild boar is found in 
 various parts of the Appennines ; the ibex is also an inhabitant 
 of the same regions; the stag and deer are common. Most of 
 the rivers and coasts abound with fish. Here, as in other Catholic 
 states, the cookery is much affected by religion. Salt-Jish is in 
 considerable request in almost every part of Italy. 
 
 Tuscany contains important cities, among which Florence lifts 
 its head as chief; and here modern Italian cookery must be and 
 doubtless is in the greatest perfection. Its oil, grapes, and wines 
 are abundant, while exquisite fruits of various kinds supply the 
 elegant dessert. The Florentines, according to a recent traveller, 
 are distinguished by their conviviality; they think it a great dis¬ 
 tinction to have plenty to eat. “ I am now going to dine or to 
 eat extremely well, after which I shall rest awhile, and then I 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 XXV 
 
 shall sup,” is often said. One would be inclined to suspect that 
 some of the old days of the luxurious Romans had returned to 
 Florence , which, as well as Lucca, is famous for its olive-oil. 
 
 What has been said of Naples and the Caiabrias will apply in 
 great measure to the cookery and food of Rome ; before which, 
 and indeed before several other Italian states, lies the Maremma, 
 a broad stripe of flat country beginning at the mountains of Genoa, 
 and extending along the sea-shore to the Caiabrias. The chief 
 products of this extensive tract are corn and cattle; but the neigh¬ 
 bouring towns are surrounded with vineyards, orchards, and gar¬ 
 dens. 
 
 We have been informed that the marquis P. of Rome has made 
 some very good champagne from his vineyard near Arietto; 
 an intelligent friend of ours partook of it, and he says that it was 
 dry and sparkling without the sweetness of common, but more 
 like sillery champagne. 
 
 At Bologna, which every one knows is famed for the sausages 
 of that name, the market is well supplied with fresh-water fish 
 from the ponds which lie between that city and the sea. 
 
 Near Lucca the hills are covered with chestnut trees to the very 
 tops ; the poor live mostly here upon the nuts; they are eaten either 
 boiled or roasted; in both cases the skins are rejected: when these 
 fail there is a famine. The hills are sold, not by the acre, but by 
 the quantity of chestnuts which they produce. The valleys are 
 full of olives and vines. The land bears two crops annually, one 
 of wheat, the other of Indian corn, which is sowm immediately 
 after the first is reaped. 
 
 Parma is famous for its cheese called Parmasan, which is now 
 made at Lodi. Although it would be and is esteemed in England 
 good cheese, we do not think it better than our Stilton, or good 
 Chedder or Cheshire cheese. 
 
 The neighbourhood of Turin is chiefly distinguished by its 
 rice-fields, which are covered with water about six or seven inches 
 deep during the period of its growth and till the crop is ripe. 
 The seeds are sometimes sown, it is said, upon the water. 
 
 And if the traveller should be disposed to pass over Mount Cenis, 
 he will find excellent trout kept alive in a cistern at the inn near 
 the summit of the mountain, and where he may have it cooked in 
 his own w 7 ay at a few minutes’ notice. The trout is brought from 
 a lake on the top of the mountain. These fish are also kept on 
 the Simplon and other of the Alpine passes in the same way as on 
 Mount Cenis. 
 
 Of the fish afforded by the Italian Lakes it is scarcely neces¬ 
 sary to speak. The Lake de Gap.da abounds in fish, particularly 
 the carpians, which Linnaeus thought to be a species of salmon; 
 its flavour is exquisite. Lake Maggiore is also well supplied 
 with fish, among which trout, perch, and tench are prominent. 
 
 Of Nice, a maritime town and a fine climate on the banks of 
 the Lake Como, we may observe that its fruits, among which 
 oranges and lemons are in profusion, are exquisite; that a list of 
 
 c 
 
XXVI 
 
 1NTRODUCTION. 
 
 the fish taken near it is now before us, in which are several of 
 forty-two genera, the whole number of species being about one 
 hundred. Among these are the eel, the anchovy, the sprat, the 
 whiting, the black goby, the comnis mullet, the milts and roes of 
 which form the Botargo of the Italians, by being taken out entire, 
 covered with salt for a few hours, then pressed between boards 
 and dried in the sun, when they are fit for use ; the mackerel, the 
 red surmullet, the John dory, &c. &c., and the torpedo, the last of 
 which no one would desire to touch while alive, although when 
 dead the French (and perhaps the Italians too) dress and eat it. 
 
 There are also many of the ( spanis ) gilt-head tribe of fishes 
 obtained at Nice. The spanis auratus, or lunulatcd gilt head, 
 although a coarse fish, was esteemed by the ancient Romans, par¬ 
 ticularly when it was fed upon oysters from the Lucrine lake. 
 This fish is caught in abundance at certain seasons in the Medi¬ 
 terranean. There are also several of the gurnard (inglo) tribe 
 at Nice ; the gray gurnard, the piper, the cuckow gurnard, the 
 tab-fish, and one or two more. Between Nice and Genoa are 
 immense groves of lemon-trees; and what, forming an acidu¬ 
 lated drink, is superior, in a warm climate, to the juice of the 
 lemon? Palm-trees also grow there, the leaves of which are 
 sent to Rome to decorate the churches. We must now quit 
 the classic soil of Italy, and although we shall not detain the 
 reader long in the Tyrol or in the south of Germany, we may just 
 observe that at Saltsburgli in Austria, the salt, so essential a condi¬ 
 ment to man, is obtained from the centre of a mountain through 
 which are formed inclined planes to convey it away ; that, accord¬ 
 ing to our friend’s MS. account, (of whom we have more than 
 once spoken in these outlines,) the Austrian and Hungarian wines 
 here obtained are very good, equal to the best claret, and free from 
 acid ; indeed all the wine up the valley from Verona to Inspruck 
 is very good, and at Botzen delicious: the valley is full of vines; 
 from this last place the Tyrol is supplied with wine. 
 
 We might here descend along the majestic Rhine 
 
 “ Whose breast of waters broadly swell 
 
 Between the banks which bear the vine ; 
 
 And hills all rich with blossomed trees. 
 
 And fields which promise corn and wine. 
 
 And scattered cities crowning these” 
 
 Byron. 
 
 But our limits utterly forbid more than this glance; and although 
 Switzerland, Geneva, and Lake Leman, “ with its crystal face,” 
 and its fish, to which may be added the Lake of Constance, with its 
 red trout in so much request, furnish ample food for the historian 
 as well as the historical cook, we leave the description of it to 
 other hands, and devote our attention to the Cookery of France, 
 in many respects a very important country. According to the 
 celebrated Encyclopedic* published during the last century under 
 
 * Encyclopedic, tome x. art. Cuisine. 
 
I INTRODUCTION. 
 
 XXVII 
 
 the superintendence of Diderot and D’Alembert in France, 
 French cookery was very much influenced by a crowd of corrupted 
 Italians, who served in the court of Catherin de Medicis. It 
 will be fruitless to trace the cookery of what has been termed the 
 dark or barbarous ages, when almost the whole of life among the 
 different European communities was made up of monkish acerbity, 
 priestly luxury, and baronial riot on the one hand, and military con¬ 
 tention for power or territory and feudal oppression on the other. 
 But nevertheless, in many of the large towns, long before the inven¬ 
 tion of the ait of printing in France, as well as in this country, 
 professors of some of the more useful and common arts were en¬ 
 couraged. Hence we find that, as civilization proceeded, many of 
 such professors became united into companies, and had certain 
 privileges granted them by the kings in w'hose dominions they 
 were established, which enabled them to exercise their calling 
 with great advantage to themselves, and, it was then supposed, 
 with great advantage also to the community. Among these cooks 
 and others connected with their craft were formed into companies. 
 
 In France, the Traiteur or Cuisinier-Traiteur, that is, a cook 
 who kept an eating-house, united at once in himself three other 
 professions, namely, the Rotisseur, that is, the cook who pre¬ 
 pares and sells roast-meat, the Patissier or pastry-cook, and the 
 Cabaretier or Inn-keeper. The Traiteur had the right of furnishing 
 complete repasts, whether in the city or at his own house ; 
 whereas the three others could sell nothing except what they 
 professed to sell. 
 
 The Company of Master-Cooks, &c. is nevertheless not very 
 ancient; it was erected into a society by Henry IV. in 1599, anil 
 confirmed by subsequent kings. 
 
 The Company of Maitre Rotisseurs is much older than the 
 preceding. Their first statutes had for their title, Ordonnance da 
 Metiers des oyers, and were given to the company by Stephen 
 Boileau, Provost of Paris, about the year 1258. The term des 
 oyers, which means here sellers of geese, has induced some persons 
 to think that formerly the citizens of Paris had a particular relish 
 for that sort of food. But that name was given to them, because 
 formerly the goose rvas the only kind of poultry which they were 
 permitted to sell and to dress : other poultry and game were sold 
 by the Poulterers. These ancient Rotisseurs were also at the same 
 time Cliarcutiers, that is, they kept a pork-shop and purchased of 
 the butchers beef, veal, mutton, and pork, and sold it either roasted, 
 boiled, or seasoned. They lived almost all of them in the street 
 called aux-oyers, where, as late as 1767, were a great many of the 
 shops of the Rotisseurs. 
 
 The associations of pastry-cooks of Paris are of some anti¬ 
 quity. Their statutes were giving them by Charles IX. in 1566. 
 They were of two kinds, and formed two distinct companies, 
 Patissiers or pastry-cooks, who made ordinary pastry ; and 
 Pain d'6piciers, that is ginger-bread bakers. But ginger¬ 
 bread is not a modern invention ; it has come down to us, accord¬ 
 ing to Athemeus, from Asia, who informs us that a bread was 
 
 c 2 
 
XXV111 
 
 INTRODUCTION 
 
 made at Rhodes, seasoned with honey of such an agreeable taste 
 that it was eaten with pleasure after the greatest entertainments. 
 The Greeks called it melilntes; from the Greeks it passed into 
 other parts of Europe, and has thus come down to us.* 
 
 For some of the preceding notices concerning the French Cooks 
 we are indebted to the work referred to in the note. That work 
 was published in 1767, and we conclude that the different pro¬ 
 fessions connected with the art of Cookery have undergone in 
 France considerable change since that period. Indeed upon 
 reference to the Manuals which have been lately published there, 
 we find, besides the Manual de Cuisinier so often referred to in the 
 body of our present work, Manual of the Baker and Miller; a 
 Manual of the Brewer; Manual of the Charcutier or Pork-butcher; 
 Manual of the Lemonadier, Confectioner , and Distiller ; Manual of 
 the Pastry-cook; Manual of the French Vine-dresser, or the 
 Art of cultivating the Vine, making Wines, Brandies, and Vinegars. 
 So that now several arts connected with Cookery, as well as 
 with many other arts, have their appropriate Manual in France, 
 and hence we conclude that the uses of chartered or other compa¬ 
 nies under letters patent in that country must be greatly on the 
 decline. We possess no information concerning the present state 
 of the Cooks’ Companies in France, nor are we desirous of 
 inquiring concerning them. We consider that their cookery- 
 books (and we have inspected many of them) contain a summary 
 of the practice of that art in a fertile empire, which M. Cakeme 
 with great complacency has been pleased to call the mother-coun¬ 
 try of cookery. See page 122. How this can be, we confess 
 we are at a loss to comprehend, unless we could obliterate what 
 is known of the cookery of the ancient nations, concerning which 
 we have given a few outlines in the present sketch. However, 
 with all this gentleman’s eccentricity, we consider his works, as 
 historical documents, valuable; and shall take the liberty to use 
 the information which they communicate to us, and for which we 
 beg leave to express ourselves obliged. 
 
 We may here observe that in those states of Europe where the Ca¬ 
 tholic religion has been predominant for a series of ages, the cook¬ 
 ery is affected in no ordinary degree, at the season of Lent in parti¬ 
 cular, by several peculiarities, one of the chief of which is that 
 of avoiding the preparation and use of all Jlesli during the period 
 of its continuance ; and therefore fish, dressed in various ways, 
 constitutes a large portion of the viands of those who profess 
 that religion. 
 
 Shrove-Tuesday in Catholic countries is the last day of the 
 Carnival, which consists in a period more or less long of continual 
 enjoyment and feasting ; this period commonly begins on Twelfth 
 Day. It is usual for women in particular to meet together, and, 
 disguising themselves in various ways, to proceed dancing and 
 singing to the domicile of some new housekeeper. The following 
 is a specimen of one song in France. 
 
 * Dictionnaire dec Arts et Metiers, Amsterdam., 1767. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 XXIX 
 
 Comme cette semaine nous serons traitee ! 
 
 Le Lundi du bouilli, 
 
 Le Mardi du roti, 
 
 Le Mercredi du jambon, 
 
 Le Jeudi uu chapon, 
 
 Le Vendredi du saumon, 
 
 Le Samedi du poisson, 
 
 Le Dimanche au matin, 
 
 Des saucesses et du poudin. 
 
 How we shall be feasted this week 1 
 
 On Monday boil’d, on Tuesday roast, 
 
 On Wednesday ham will be our boast; 
 
 On Thursday capon fine and fat. 
 
 On Friday salmon equals that; 
 
 On Saturday some other fish. 
 
 Will make as exquisite a dish ; 
 
 On Sunday sausages appear. 
 
 With pudding to complete the cheer; 
 
 While every day affords us wine. 
 
 How can we mortals better dine?*j 
 
 Having already alluded to geese above, we may here observe 
 that although what is stated in the notes to the Tabella Cibaria is 
 in part, perhaps, true as regards these birds in France, —namely, 
 that they are not in such repute there as they are in this country, 
 and that they seldom make their appearance at the tables of the 
 Parisian epicures; that the flesh is condemned as coarse and 
 unwholesome, and that the apple-sauce, when mentioned, never 
 fails to excite astonishment;—yet, if the various modes given in 
 the Cuisinier Royal for dressing the goose be any criterion of the 
 opinions of the French in regard to this bird, it cannot be in 
 exactly such low estimation as the author of the Tabella Cibaria 
 would have us believe. Ten different modes of dressing the goose 
 are given in the Cuisinier Royal, one of which is called oie d 
 TAnglaise, and we should think that such a method of dressing a 
 goose would not have found its way into that unless some of 
 our neighbours liked our method of cooking it. It is true the 
 Manual de Cuisinier is very concise concerning geese, directing, 
 however, a wild-one, if young, to be (elle se met d la brochi) roasted; 
 and a tame one to be treated in the same manner when it is not more 
 than a year old, and has been fattened with good corn. Goose en 
 daube pervades, nevertheless, all their cookery-books ; and in the 
 Manuel de Cuisinier it is distinguished with the letters D.A.D. 
 that is, as our readers may see (page 298), difficult to digest. 
 
 * Our translator informs us that he has taken a trifling liberty or two 
 with the original. Poudin, or Boudin, he says it should be, means, in 
 French, black-pudding, which is so cacophonous, that he could not in 
 his conscience degrade his English by inserting it; he trusts this may 
 be pardoned ; and he hopes, besides, that all lovers of good cheer will 
 forgive him for the introduction of wine and the last couplet, neither of 
 which is in the original. We ought, perhaps, here to state that the 
 Carnival in France has lately, we understand, become among the intel¬ 
 ligent population in considerable disrepute. , 
 
X X X 
 
 INTRO DUCTION. 
 
 13ut, according to the Tabella Cibaria, the livers and thighs of 
 geese made into pete de foies gras are reckoned a most delicate 
 article even in France. Of such, notwithstanding Gallican taste, 
 we cannot approve, nor indeed of scarcely any other dish made 
 of the liver of any animal, however dressed; being thoroughly 
 convinced that the liver is, in general, one of the most unwole- 
 some of all animal aliments, and requires a robust stomach to 
 elaborate it without inconvenience.* 
 
 But we must proceed in our outlines. We have said elsewhere 
 in our work that ‘‘ fricassees and ragolits are the fruits of French 
 taste and most certain it is that our neighbours have long had 
 the credit of preparing such dishes as well as soups, and a variety 
 of other boiled and braised mixtures, that have been and still are 
 imitated in this country; the reader who desires to learn more 
 on this head may consult our eighth chapter. How much soever 
 such dishes might invite fashion to partake of them, they are, 
 nevertheless, not accordant with our simple English habits and 
 tastes ; and therefore, although to a certain extent adopted in 
 our large towns w r here French influence most prevails, there is 
 little fear of their ever becoming denizens in the cookery of our 
 rural population. Of soups, however, to a limited extent, and 
 made of some simple viand, we are advocates, as may be seen in 
 our chapter on soups; but to soups as well as fricassees and 
 ragoftts made up with almost an infinity of ingredients and sauces 
 we most strongly object, being persuaded that they all more or 
 less minister to the dyspeptic maladies under w'hich too many of 
 us in this country already labour. 
 
 Without, therefore, entering further into the history of ancient 
 cookery in France, we shall avail ourselves of the assistance of 
 our friend M. Caremf., and direct the reader’s attention to w'hat we 
 may consider as a sort of epoch in modern French Cookery. 
 This gentleman has given, in his work Le Maitre d'Hotel Frangais , 
 bills of fare, not only of the table of the Prince Regent , whose 
 cook he was for several months at Brighton, but also bills of 
 fare of the most fashionable cookery in France as well as many 
 other countries, for almost every day in the year; and also the 
 
 * Why the liver as food is unwholesome is not, perhaps, easy to ex' 
 plain; we may conjecture, however, that as one of the functions of the 
 liver is to secrete the bile, and as bile, when in the stomach, appears to 
 be always more or less offensive to it, and that, as it is difficult, perhaps 
 impossible, to obtain any portion of liver without some vestige of bile, 
 as its taste more or less bitter evinces, it is, possibly, owing to this 
 circumstance that liver becomes unfit for food. M. Morin, Manuel 
 d'Hygiene, article foies gras, entertains the same opinion as ourselves 
 concerning the nutritive properties of the liver ; indeed, he says that 
 prudence forbids us to employ foies gras as food. We find, from the same 
 authority, that at Strasbourg the foies gras, that is, fat or overgrown 
 livers, are obtained from geese by peculiar feeding, and by depriving 
 them of water ; at Toxdouse the foies gras of ducks are obtained in the 
 same way. Let the gourmands look to this, and to the consequent 
 probability of disease by eatiug such food. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 XXXI 
 
 bills of fare of the two splendid fetes given at Paris on the re entry 
 of the King Louis XVIII. into that capital in 1816. The first was 
 given in the great gallery of the Louvre; and, to adopt M. Careme’s 
 own words, et bien surement cette belle et somptueuse fete eut toute 
 ViUgance et la dignity que rkclamait son noble motif. It took place 
 the 5th of February, and was given by la Garde royale and les Gardes 
 du corps to the National Parisian Guard, to celebrate the happy re¬ 
 turn of the king to Paris after the frightful revolution of the 2d of 
 March in the preceding year. I never saw, says M. Careme, a hall 
 more beautiful, and a series of tables more imposing. There were 
 1200 covers upon twelve tables ; at the end of every table was a 
 vast military trophy elegantly grouped. Such was the splendour 
 that the sight could scarcely support it. Every table bore the 
 names of the heroes who had rendered France illustrious by their 
 immortal victories. These tables became yet more imposing when 
 surrounded by brave citizens and soldiers. Added to which, 
 towards the middle of the hall was a grand orchestra, where music 
 executed the airs dear to France, and at the report of cannon the 
 king himself entered. Dieu ! quel iclatant spectacle ! 
 
 A kitchen was formed in the large hall of the Louvre. A 
 furnace, fifty feet long and six feet wide, was raised in the middle 
 of the hall, encircled with the necessary tables. 
 
 One hundred cooks were employed in preparing the feast; and 
 all was conducted with quietness and good arrangement. 
 
 Proceed we now to another fete given on the 21st of February, 
 1816, by the National Parisian Guard to the Garde Royale and to 
 the Gardes du Corps of the king, at which also M. Careme offi¬ 
 ciated, and in the description of which this gentleman luxuriates 
 not a little. We must copy a few of his words: “ Maintenant,” 
 says he, “ il nous reste a signaler une autre grande affaire que 
 nous l’avons dirigee de concert avec M. Arlet, cuisinier distingue : 
 je veux parler du grand bal de l’Odeon ; ce bal est l’un des plus 
 extraordinaire de nos jours.’’ 
 
 M. Bertrand, restaurateur, Boulevard da Temple , was the un¬ 
 dertaker of it. The cookery was performed in the kitchen of the 
 Petit Luxemburg, and the dishes were brought upon large trays 
 to the Odeon, where tables were laid for three thousand persons. 
 There were fifteen hundred of different kinds of Potages, such 
 as vonsommi made with rice , vermicelli, poultry, &c.; ninety 
 large dishes, of which forty were ham d la Portugaise, twenty of 
 turkeys en galantines, and thirty of various fish; one hundred and 
 sixty cold entrees of various kinds, such as fowls, veal, partridges, 
 &c.; ninety large dishes of pastry, such as Naples’ biscuits, pfltes of 
 game, &c.; two hundred and fifty dishes of roasted viands, such 
 as partridges, quails, pullets, turkeys, young ducks, pigeons, 
 tongues d I’ecarlute, and fifty different sorts of fish; two hundred and 
 fifty different entremets consisting of blanc-manges, pastry, and 
 jellies of various kinds ; six hundred plates of dessert, consisting 
 of fruits both recent and dried, &c. Xc., as well as bonbons and 
 compotes; three thousand petits pains and three thousand bottles of 
 wine. 
 
XXXII 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 We must once more take M. Careme as our guide. To close, 
 says he, our treatise concerning the Bills of Fare of modern Cook¬ 
 ery, we will here relate the details of the greatest and most ex¬ 
 traordinary entertainment which has taken place at Paris since 
 the renaissance de I'urt. It was a grand military dinner for ten thou¬ 
 sand persons. The whole was prepared at the Hotel de Ville at 
 Paris, under the direction of Messrs. Palu and Lasne. There 
 were consumed at this fete— six oxen; seventy-five calves; two 
 hundred and fifty sheep ; three thousand turkeys ; three thousand chic¬ 
 kens and pullets; one thousand partridges; five hundred hams ; five 
 hundred tongues; one thousand pat6s; one thousand biscuits and 
 babas ; one thousand carp; one thousand pike; eighteen thousand 
 bottles, and one hundred and forty-five hogsheads of wine. 
 
 This grand entertainment was given in the Champs Elysees be¬ 
 neath large tents erected for the purpose. Every guest had his 
 bottle of wine. A part of the viands and the one hundred and 
 forty-five hogsheads of wine were given to the people of the twelve 
 arrondissements of Paris.* 
 
 Perhaps we cannot finish our outlines of French Cookery more 
 appropriately than by giving a summary of what M. Careme says 
 concerning that and cookery generally, without, however, pledging 
 ourselves in every particular to that gentleman’s opinions. If 
 I may judge, says he, from the Roman treatises on the cookery of 
 antiquity, it was never as juicy (succulente) as ours; not even 
 that of Lucullus and of Apicius; but this arises from our geogra¬ 
 phical position, from our industry, and from the infallible and de¬ 
 licate taste of the French nation ! (gout sur et delicate.) 
 
 On consulting the authors who write concerning French cookery 
 about the middle of the last century, it is easy to perceive how much 
 the cooks of that time had preserved the style of the Italian cook¬ 
 ery which Catherine de Medicis introduced to the court of France; 
 notwithstanding which French cookery had already made consi¬ 
 derable progress under the reign of Charles the IXth, Henry the 
 IVth, as well as under the splendid timesof Louis the XIVth. This 
 science, so M. Caheme calls the cookery of that period, had re¬ 
 ceived great developement if we may judge from the authors of 
 Dons de Comus, Soupers de la Cour, and other books written about 
 the same period. We see, however, even then, how much French 
 cookery was arnrnatisie and spiced. The climate of beautiful 
 Italy, by its excessive heat, requires for its native inhabitants a 
 cookery strong and aromatis6e, to serve in some respects as a tonic 
 to prevent the continual relaxation of the fibres of the stomach. 
 The Italian cookery left, therefore, among us a predominant incli¬ 
 nation for such highly flavoured food ; but time, that great master 
 of all things, has naturally induced our cooks to simplify the 
 national taste in making our French cookery more simple and 
 
 * A little defect is observable in M. Careme’s account; he does not 
 inform us when this fete took place ; we conclude, however, soon after 
 the letes previously described, when the military mania of France was 
 at his height. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 XXXlU 
 
 more unctuous ; for, from the productions of our own happy climate 
 and its beautiful weather, there is no occasion to add spice to our 
 food. Notwithstanding, our cookery was too much aromutisze 
 towards the end of the reign of Louis the XIVth, and in part under 
 that of Louis the XVth; the court had then grown old and felt 
 the want of a table that should be wholesome and consequently 
 more simplified. The sumptuousness, therefore, of French cook¬ 
 ery under the reign of Louis the XVth, as well as under Louis 
 the XVIth, received great changes, to which the revolution added 
 not a little. 
 
 Thus far M. Careme : we must add that French cookery will 
 still admit of much further simplification ; and that, how extrava¬ 
 gant and corrupt soever French cookery might now be or formerly 
 was, there have not been occasionally wanting observant persons 
 in that enlightened nation, (among whom we ought to name Car- 
 delli, see page 298) who deprecate in becoming terms the gas- 
 trology which is still too much practised there as well as in En¬ 
 gland. With some very sensible observations on the subject, (and 
 we give them in the original as we find them in the Encyclopedie, 
 article Cuisine,) we must conclude. “ II est vrai, cependant, que, 
 graces aux moeurs et a la corruption generate, tons les pays riches 
 ont des Lucullus qui concourent par leur exemple a perpetuer l’a- 
 rnour de la bonne chere. On s’accorde assez a defigurer de cent 
 manihres differents les mets que donne la nature, lesqnels par ce 
 moyen perdent leur bonne qualite, et sont, si on peut dire, autant 
 de poisons flatteurs prepares pour detruire le temperament, et 
 pour abreger le cours de la vie.” Flattering poisons prepared to des¬ 
 troy the constitution and shorten human life. 
 
 We will just add that Thouin informs us the only originally in¬ 
 digenous vegetable productions of France employed as food, are 
 the acorn, the chestnut, the pear, the wild apple, and some other 
 inferior fruits ; all others are the product of foreign countries, and 
 were obtained from either the Phoenicians, the Greeks, the Ro¬ 
 mans, or some of the African nations. The vine, the peach, the 
 fig, the mulberry, the cherry, and olive were introduced by the 
 Romans; the orange by the Italians; and the pine-apple by the 
 Dutch. 
 
 Yet the ingenuity and industry of France have provided for her 
 inhabitants a larger number of both animal and vegetable viands. 
 The Manuel de Cuisinier par Cardelli furnishes us with a cata¬ 
 logue of articles of food of different kinds amounting to more than 
 a hundred, which are considered in France as the most renowned, 
 as well as the names of cities and places which produce them in 
 the greatest perfection. We have not room for the whole ; but we 
 will give the reader an abstract from it. 
 
 Anchovies —Aix, Marseilles, Nice; Artichokes —Laon ; Aspara¬ 
 gus —Yendbme; Beer —Brusseles; Brandy —Aix, Anday, Cognac, 
 Montpellier, Orleans; Butler —Brittany, Gournai, lsigny, Rennes, 
 Ac.; Corn —Chartres, Meaux ; Cheese —Bayonne, Besanqon, 
 Gruyere, Meaux, &c. ; Cyder —Bolbec, lsigny, Neufchatel 
 Rouen, &c.; Ducks young—Rouen ; Fish —Champagne, Grenoble, 
 
 c 3 
 
XXXIV 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Havre, Nantes, Nice, Quimper, Sancerre; Lobsters —Havre ; 
 Melons —Honfleur, Paris; Mustard —Dijon; Oil —Aix, Marseilles ; 
 Olives —Aix, Marseilles; Oysters— Cancale, Dieppe, Havre, 
 &c. ; Poultry —Chartres ; Salmon —Coblentz ; Sugar —Orleans ; 
 Sturgeon — Dieppe ; 2 bout —Besantjon, Geneva; Tunny —Aix, 
 Marseilles, Nice ; Turbot— Dieppe ; Turkey —Orleans ; Veal — 
 Pontoise ; Wines —Aurillac, Bayonne, Champagne, Clermont, 
 Dijon, Toulouse, and many other places.* 
 
 Concerning the Cookf.ry of Spain and its sister country Por¬ 
 tugal it is scarcely necessary to speak ; for, unless it has 
 
 * A few notes from our friend’s MS., to whrh we have often alluded 
 in these outlines, may be here acceptable. 
 
 At Tain we visited the famous Hermitage vineyard; M. Jourdan, its 
 largest proprietor, had just finished his wine-making, except his Vin de 
 Paille, which was to be made the next day; it is made from grapes 
 that have been hung up in clusters upon wooden frames in a green-house, 
 with a stove in it, which assists the drying [and no doubt the ripening 
 also] of the grapes. The frames are turned round to the sun, so that all 
 may have the advantage of it. After hanging for a few weeks, they are 
 made into wine in the same way as other wine is made. M. Jourdan 
 nakes only about two hogsheads of this celebrated wine annually. The 
 grapes from which the Hermitage wine is obtained are very small. Those 
 which produce the Vin de Paille are almost the smallest we ever saw, 
 and except being sw et had no peculiarly fine flavour. 
 
 The Hermitage-hill is the last that is good, making the better sorts of 
 wine on the left bank of the Rhone. On the right bank higher up, op¬ 
 posite Vienne and for two miles below it, is made the far-famed Cote 
 Rotie, which takes its name from the hills being very steep and lying due 
 south ; this exposure, the soil being poor and rocky, is the cause of the 
 wines being so good, the grapes being thus thoroughly ripened. 
 
 At Vaucluse are obtained delicious trout, eels, and craw-fish, which are 
 kept in reservoirs, out of which they tumble into the hands of the cook, 
 so that their goodness depends upon their freshness; trout are, however, 
 always better when taken in cold water ; they are darker in colour and 
 firmer in their flesh; this fact applies peculiarly to the trout taken in the 
 Alpine regions of Italy and Switzerland. 
 
 The whole country for fifty miles round Marseilles is a complete forest 
 of olive-trees ; hence there is an abundance of oil of all qualities ; the 
 first expressed, which is the best, is called oil of Aix, and is used both in 
 the kitchen and at the table ; the inferior kinds are made into soap. 
 
 Ay Hyeres the orange and the palm-tree are seen for the first time in 
 journeying to the south of France. Between the town and the sea are 
 iarge agave gardens ; they are chiefly cultivated, however, for flowers, 
 whence great quantities of Jieur d’orange water and esprit des roses are 
 made. 
 
 After passing the Estrelles mountains the climate improves and is even 
 milder than at Nice. Here the orange-tree is first seen in all its beauty ; 
 aad the olive, instead of being an often frosted and cut-down shrub of the 
 rest of France and most parts of Italy, is here more like the oak in size 
 and beauty, and a very handsome tree it is. 
 
 Yet we learn from a family MS. record, lime de memoire, made by an 
 ancestor of one of our council of Cooks (a native of the south of France), 
 that “ l’annee 1709 fut cet grand hiver qui tua tous les oliviers.” The 
 year 1709 was that great winter which killed all the olives. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 XXXV 
 
 lately undergone considerable change, it may be denominated exe¬ 
 crable as compared with the cookery of most other nations of 
 Europe, notwithstanding the fine climate and the abundance of 
 oil and wine. Mr. Southey, whose Letters from Spain and Portu¬ 
 gal were published in 1797, gives a very indifferent account of it 
 indeed. His sketch of his first going on board a Spanish packet is 
 picturesque. “ The sailors,” says he, “ were feasting upon a 
 mess of biscuit, onions, liver, and horse-beans boiled into a brown 
 pap, which they were all pawing out of a bucket. The same taste 
 and cleanliness of cookery were displayed in the only dinner they 
 afforded us on the passage.” At Corunna he dined off “a fowl 
 fried in oil, served up in an attitude not unlike a frog taken 
 suddenly with a fit of the cramp; to which was added an omelette 
 of eggs and garlic fried in the same execrable oil; our drink a 
 meagre wine, which by comparison exalts small beer into nectar.” 
 
 When a man must diet on what is disagreeable, it is some con¬ 
 solation to reflect that it is wholesome ; and this is the case with 
 the wine; but the bread here is half gravel, owing to the soft na¬ 
 ture of their grindstones.” There is something of the contradictory in 
 the Poet Laureate’s account of Spanish wine in these two periods ; 
 allowance must be, therefore, made for a poet’s hyperbole. On 
 his journey to Madrid from Corunna he admits that he found good 
 potatoes and turnips ; but he says that at their inn the people 
 boiled some wine for him in an iron ladle ! he mentions just before 
 that the vinegar was brought in a leaden vessel, which rendered the 
 condiment at once sweet and poisonous. Their bread is made of 
 wheat; browu bread with Indian corn. At Baneza he obtained 
 an excellent wine superior to Mountain, called Peralta. From 
 Baneza on the road to Benevente he saw a range of caverns dug 
 out of a hill, which proved to be ictree-vaults. He mentions also 
 that he obtained on the road turkeys, pigeons, and partridges; but 
 he met with a sausage composed only of garlic and aniseed, and fried 
 in rancid oil; still he had good wine. At Espinosa he learnt that cats 
 are often eaten in Spain ; one of his companions told him that they 
 had one for supper at Villa Franca which weighed seven pounds. 
 The ladies in Spain, therefore, who make pets of cats, are very 
 careful that they do not get abroad or they would be soon killed 
 and eaten ! 
 
 After leaving Madrid, of the cookery prevailing in which our 
 author does not say much, they stopped at the Venta de Peralba- 
 •negas, where a large party at supper were actually all eating out 
 of the frying-pan. “ The pepper of all this country is red ; Apol- 
 lyon could not find a better kind of nutmeg for a cool tankard of 
 uqua-fortis.” “ The forests find shelter and support for the wild 
 boar and occasionally for tame swine. If there had been any 
 game laws in Spain, we must have starved ; but game is plenty ; 
 we bought two rabbits, a hare, and four partridges for a dollar.” 
 At Puerto de Sunta Cruz was obtained an excellent dish, namely, 
 lean pork highly seasoned with garlic, and steeped in red wine. 
 Notwithstanding the wretched state of Spain, here is wine to 
 
XXX VI 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 gladden Ihe heart of man, com to support him, and oil to make 
 him of a cheerful countenance. 
 
 At Merida they had a woodcock for supper, which the travel¬ 
 lers trussed themselves ; but the old woman of the house brought 
 up the bird sprawling, told them that they had forgot to cut off the 
 rump and draw it, and then poked her finger in to show how 
 clean the inside was. What a terrible disappointment to a gour¬ 
 mand ! 
 
 On entering Portugal, our travellers fared better; they obtained 
 tea and toast and butter for breakfast. The Portuguese spits are 
 very small, with four legs at the handle ; the other end rests upon 
 some piece of fuel while the meat roasts ; the spit is stationary ; 
 when one side of the meat is done, the other is turned to the fire. 
 The rabbit which they obtained was first roastedto know when 
 it was done, they, the Portuguese, cracked the joints, laid it by 
 to cool, tore it to pieces with their fingers, and then fried it with 
 onions, garlic, and oil. Provisions in Lisbon are in general 
 good; they cultivate several English vegetables, among which 
 the cauliflower is one of the best. But the potato does not 
 succeed ; mutton is the worst meat they have. The Portuguese 
 mode of killing cattle deserves imitation in England : the spinal 
 marrow is pierced with a small knife between two of the vertebrae 
 of the neck, and the animal immediately falls. 
 
 Of the vineyards, olive-yards, and groves, and orange and 
 lemon gardens of Spain and Portugal, it is unnecessary to speak, 
 as almost every one knows that ivine, olive-oil, and oranges are 
 produced in large quantities in those countries. 
 
 We cannot, however, avoid presenting one or two reflections 
 made by the Poet Laureate upon the conclusion of Lent in Portu¬ 
 gal. “ Apicius himself might envy the feelings of a Catholic on 
 Easter Eve. After doing penance for forty days on fish and soup 
 meagre, they make amends for it by falling to when the clock 
 strikes twelve; and this midnight feast is said to do them more 
 injury than all the previous fasting.” 
 
 Besides wine, oil, and oranges and lemons, Spain abounds 
 more or less in nuts, almonds, and the fig. The fish of both ! 
 countries are of various kinds, such as the salmon, trout, eel, &c.; 
 but, as has been stated, the cookery of both kingdoms, except i 
 when improved by an admixture with the English and other i 
 nations, as at Lisbon, is of a very low order.* 
 
 * We have been favoured with the perusal of a MS. written by a I 
 gentleman who was an officer in the army under the command of the 
 Duke of Wellington, and who passed the winter in Spain near Vittoria, 
 in 1813. By this it appears that hares in the woods were extremely 
 large, weighing sometimes as much as eleven pounds ; that woodcocks 
 were in such plenty, the officers made them into pies ; quails were 
 scarce ; there were no snipes. It appears too that the wine was so 
 good and strong that most of the men were frequently intoxicated, and 
 also some of the officers; that they had at one time seventy men under 
 arrest for drunkenness ! which was not wholly prevented by flogging, to 
 which recourse was had. 
 
 I 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 XXXVII 
 
 To conclude our outlines of the cookery of these peninsular 
 nations, the fare of the labouring population is, from the most 
 authentic accounts, meagre in the extreme, and made up chiefly 
 of bread not fermented, bacon, Spanish pease or beans, oil, gar¬ 
 lic, greens, and a common wine worth from one penny to three 
 pence a bottle. It is said that a family of four persons will, in 
 Catalonia and other provinces near the sea, dine upon half a 
 pound of salt fish, bread, and oil, and sup on a lettuce. 
 
 Of the cookery of other yurts of the European continent it is not 
 our intention, nor will our limits permit us to say much. Not¬ 
 withstanding our friend M. Careme lived some years at Vienna, 
 and prefers it as a place of residence to either London or Peters- 
 burgh, he says that the butchers’ shops are badly conducted, and 
 that both the beef, mutton, and veal are very indifferent, badly 
 bled, and very disagreeable to dress. The markets are, however, 
 full of game of all kinds, from the deer and the wild-boar down¬ 
 wards to a variety of birds. Fish, such as salmon, sturgeon, trout, 
 carp, &c. are excellent. Salt- water fish of every kind are dear, as they 
 are brought from Trieste, a port in the Venetian Gulf. Above 
 thirty francs, about £l. 5s. are sometimes paid for one hundred of 
 oysters. Fruit of various kinds is abundant and good ; so also 
 are vegetables ; but during the winter they are very dear. At 
 Vienna, as well as in Russia and in England, are no truffles ; 
 these are brought from Italy, and are called Roman truffles; they 
 are without fumet, and very rare and costly. “ There are wanting 
 at Vienna the truffles of France, the jish of the sea, our good fruits 
 of winter, and our exquisite wines,” says Careme. What a terrible 
 misfortune for Austria, as well as for England and Russia, that 
 all these, countries produce no truffles. Yet he admits that the 
 Austrian champignons are excellent. ButM. Careme, in his zeal 
 for his mother-country, has here suffered his imagination to outrun 
 his knowledge. The truffle is a native of this country, ‘‘ and very 
 common on the downs of Wiltshire, Hampshire, and Kent, where 
 dogs are trained to scent it out.” See Loudon’s Cyclopcedia of 
 Gardening, page 772; and also page 19G of our present work. 
 “ The perfume of the trufHe betrays it to dogs and pigs.” Ta- 
 bella Cibaria, page 61. 
 
 The bread of Vienna is very good, the wine not expensive ; it 
 is, without contradiction, the cheapest city to live in to be found 
 in Europe ; but, adds Careme with his usual complacent nai- 
 v6t6, it cannot be compared to Paris; no cily possesses in such 
 abundance all the productions of gaslronomie ! 
 
 While speaking of German Cookery, we cannot do better than 
 extract a lew lines from a work, entitled “ Bubbles from the 
 Brunnens of Nassau.” During the fashionable season at Lan- 
 genschwalbach, the dinner hour at all the salles is one o’clock. 
 “ Seated at the table of the Allee Saal, I counted one hundred 
 and eighty people at dinner in one room. To say ina single word 
 whether the fare was good or bad would be quite impossible, it 
 being so completely different from any thing ever met with in 
 
I N'PRODUCTION. 
 
 xxxviii 
 
 England. To my simple taste, the cookery is most horrid ; still 
 there were now and then some dishes, particularly sweet ones, 
 which I thought excellent. With respect to the made dishes, of 
 which there were a great variety, I beg to record a formula which 
 is infallible : the simple rule is this—let the stranger taste the 
 dish, and if it be not sour, he may be quite certain that it is 
 greasy: again, if it be not greasy, let him not eat thereof, for 
 then it is sure to be sour. With regard to the order of the dishes, 
 that too is unlike anything Mrs Glass ever thought of: after soup, 
 which all over the world is the alpha of the gourmand’s alpha¬ 
 bet, the barren meat from which the said soup has been extracted 
 is produced ; of course it is dry, tasteless, withered-looking stud - , 
 which a Grosvenor-square cat would not touch with its whiskers, 
 but this dish is always attended by a couple of satellites—the one, 
 a quantity of cucumber stewed in vinegar; the other, a black 
 greasy sauce ; and if you dare accept a piece of this flaccid beef, 
 you are instantly thrown between Scylla and Charybdis, for so 
 sure as you decline the indigestible cucumber, souse comes into 
 your plate a deluge of the sickening grease. After the company 
 have eaten heavily of messes, which it would be impossible to 
 describe, in comes some nice salmon,—then fowls,—then pud¬ 
 dings,— then meat again,—then stewed fruit,—and after the 
 English stranger has fallen back in his chair quite beaten, a leg 
 of mutton majestically makes its appearance! The pig who 
 lives in his sty would have some evcuse, but it is really quite 
 shocking to see any other animal overpowering himself at midday 
 with such a mixture and superabundance of food. Yet only 
 think,” says our author, “ what a compliment all this is to the 
 mineral waters of Langetischwalbach; if the Naiads of the Pauline 
 can be of real service to a stomach full of vinegar and grease, 
 how much more effectually ought they to tinker up the inside of 
 him who has sense enougli to sue them in forma pauperis .” 
 
 Thus much is learned from this source regarding German cook¬ 
 ery; and truly, if the picture be not overcharged, which the wit 
 and vivacity of the writer strongly tempt us to suspect, a very 
 pretty task the natives impose upon their digestive organs ; but 
 after all it appears that the arrangement is more in fault than the 
 preparations, and the quantity than the quality of the food. 
 Germans resident in this country assert that in their cookery they 
 employ nothing sour except sour crout. Fat, however, they do 
 delight in. All vegetables, such as cabbage, spinach, potatoes, 
 they first boil, and then chop up, and fry either with butter or 
 lard, and indeed they prefer all vegetables boiled, either in the 
 same water with meat, or with tire addition of fat of some kind, 
 and that in no small quantity. 
 
 Of Russian Cookery, M. Carev.e says that the Russians as 
 well as other nations have certain ragouts and national entre¬ 
 mets ; but these do not constitute a system of cookery. Their 
 butchers-meat is very indifferent; ihe veal of Archangel only is 
 esteemed, but not equal to the veal of Pontoise. Russia, Poland, 
 
1NTUO RUCTION. 
 
 XX XIX 
 
 and Germany, according to the same authority, have their but- 
 chers-meat equally bad ; after Paris, says Careme, I prefer that 
 of London. The pullets of Russia are poor and small, and their 
 other poultry cannot be compared with the tine Volatile of France ; 
 and in that country Normandy affords the best. The game of 
 Russia is of course not as plentiful as it is in France and^other 
 more favourable climates. In the northern parts they have the 
 rein-deer and goats, as well as sheep and other cattle.* Of fish, 
 they have the sturgeon in many of the rivers in great perfection, 
 whence so much of the isinglass consumed in this and other coun¬ 
 tries is obtained: the liver, spawn, and other internal parts of 
 this fish are pickled by the Russians, and sold by them under the 
 name of Caviare. They have also the salmon, &c.; but it is 
 said there are no eels found in the Volga or the streams east of 
 that river. It is said, too, that the herring, usually found only in 
 the sea, is to be obtained in some of the Russian lakes. In a 
 country embracing such a large extent of climate, a variety of 
 cookery must necessarily exist. The deer, the elk, and the an¬ 
 telope are among the wild animals of the forest; the wild boar 
 is also an inhabitant of many parts of Russia; its flesh is firm and 
 much esteemed. The bustard is also tolerably plentiful and 
 cheap. Of culinary vegetables, cabbages, onions, garlic, cu¬ 
 cumbers, and turnips are raised in abundance, and these form a 
 considerable portion of the food of the peasantry. Cranberries 
 also grow in great perfection, as well as many other fruits ; and 
 towards the south, olives, figs, peaches, grapes, &c., are com¬ 
 mon, and produced without much trouble. Cherries are in such 
 abundance, that both wine and vinegar are made from them. 
 
 Of Prussian Cookery, one anecdote—and we can admit no 
 more—shall be here given. It is said that the present king 
 has his court kitchen on wheels; cooks, saucepans, fires, and 
 spits are whirled along in rapid accompaniment to majesty ; and 
 the king’s dinner roasts in close attendance upon him. At Pots¬ 
 dam, Charlottenburgh, or Berlin, the word dinner instantly pro¬ 
 duces it. The cooking apparatus even awaits the king at the 
 door of the theatre, See the New Monthly Magazine for Sep¬ 
 tember, 1832. We may just add that the wild boar and the elk 
 are occasionally found in Prussia; that game is plenty in some 
 districts; vegetables are also in tolerable plenty, but fruit is 
 scarce; fish near the Baltic and in the lakes are common, and 
 the sturgeon is occasionally taken in the Oder. 
 
 * What M. Careme says of Russian cookery, we are assured by an 
 intelligent Swiss, who resided many years both in various parts of that 
 country and in France, is true only of St. Petersburg. He observes that 
 though the cookery of the common people is execrable, yet the higher 
 classes have constantly French cooks. The butchers-meat, too, is ex¬ 
 cellent, except mutton, of which they have but little, unless such as 
 they receive frozen from the interior, sometimes upwards of 2000 miles, 
 and which is of very good quality, The game, too, is more abundant 
 than even in France, and their eels are plentiful and good. 
 
xl 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Of the cookery of the north of Europe little needs to be said. 
 The rein-deer of the Laplander constitutes his principal clothing 
 and support. According to Dr. Clarke the tops of potatoes are 
 in Lapland considered a delicate vegetable food ; while in this 
 country the stalks of potatoes are of no importance in any 
 way but as manure. It might also be mentioned here as a singu¬ 
 larity in the preparation of human fo-d, that in Norway the 
 inner rind of some of the pine tribe is made into bread, being 
 powdered and mixed with rye-meal, and eaten in times of 
 scarcity. In this country the cranberry (see page 278) grows 
 to greater perfection than in England ; red currants, as well as 
 whortle berries and stone-brambles, are all valuable fruits in 
 those northern regions, where they are kept under the snow till 
 winter, and then being mixed with rein-deer’s milk, (which is 
 kept in a preserved state,) they form an agreeable variety in the 
 Lapland diet. 
 
 English Cookery.— Having thus sketched an outline of the 
 cookery of modern Europe, as well as the most important ancient 
 cookery, we have yet one other outline to draw, and that is of 
 the cookery of our own country, to which it is na tural that we should 
 be partial; but we trust that what we have said in many places in 
 our work will prove that we are not disposed to consider Eng¬ 
 land as M. Careme does France, the mother-country of cookery ; 
 although we hesitate not to declare that in substantial and whole¬ 
 some dishes we verily believe it yields to no nation upon earth ; 
 that the roast beef of old England has no superior; and that it 
 is only when we suffer beef and other substantial viands to be 
 spoiled by a variety of sauces and other unnecessary adjuncts, and 
 bad and complicated cookery, that we render such food improper 
 for the human stomach. Added to which mischief is the rage 
 (now we hope on the decline) of having excessively fattened ani¬ 
 mals, than which scarcely any thing in the shape of animal food can 
 be more unwholesome. We trust, therefore, that we shall see 
 no more of pigs exhibited at Christmas so fat, that even their eyes 
 become buried in the rolls of the skin of the face ; and the ex¬ 
 posed fat and strong-smelling tame rabbit will cease to excite the 
 wonder and curiosity of the passers-by. M. Careme, above, 
 speaks of modern French cookery being more unctuous than the 
 ancient; now, to convert this word into plain English, it means 
 or ought to mean more greasy; and really, little as we desire 
 a very dry beef steak or a very dry mutton-chop, the chief com¬ 
 plaint we have to make of mutton as well as of pork-chops in this 
 country, is, that they are too unctuous, too greasy, and when in 
 this state are very often unfitted for the stomach. Nothing is more 
 revolting to many stomachs than an excess of fat. You may, it is 
 true, convert animals into tallow for the candle-maker ; but we 
 hope we shall hear no more of shoulders of mutton having three 
 or four inches in depth of fat upon them, and weighing, as we 
 have known some of such joints weigh, twenty five pounds each, 
 for the glory and honour of the gourmand and the grazier. 
 
 Concerning the Cookery practised in the earliest ages in Eng- 
 
I INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xli 
 
 land very little is known. Before the invasion of Julios Caisar, 
 the inland inhabitants of the country were numerous ; they kept 
 large herds of cattle, and lived mostly upon milk or flesh, some 
 of which they obtained by hunting. According to Plutarch, they 
 were habitually regular and temperate. But we cannot doubt 
 that the Romans, who held at least nominal possession of England 
 for the long period, from the invasion of Cmsar, of five hundred 
 years, must have introduced some of their luxurious cookery into 
 this country; and that by their example agriculture was intro¬ 
 duced and became in fact an important art; yet almost every his¬ 
 torian agrees in the fact that the Romans never entirely con¬ 
 quered this country ; and hence, although among the more civi¬ 
 lized portion of the inhabitants some of the Roman horticulture and 
 cookery remained after that warlike people had withdrawn from 
 the island, a large portion of the people continued in a rude and 
 uncultivated state, and their cookery was necessarily of the 
 simplest kind.* 
 
 That cabbages and many of the onion tribe were known in this 
 i country in the time of the Romans, there is no doubt; but it is 
 generally understood that most of the fruits which we now 
 possess of the greatest use and of most value, were introduced by 
 the monks or other ecclesiastics during the twelfth and the 
 three succeeding centuries. We had, it is true, then as now, 
 
 * Yet if we may trust to the account presented to us by Mr. Whis- 
 TLECRAFT, a name by the way that is sub umbra, the substantial enter- 
 > tainments of Christmas during what has been called the “ olden tyme,” 
 
 ■ the days of good King ARTHUR, a king as much sub umbra as is Mr. 
 
 ! Whistlecraft himself, (see Time’s Telescope for 1823, page 338;)—if 
 we may trust, we repeat, poetical history, the days of King Arthur were 
 i none of the worst days of cookery, when 
 
 He held his royal Christmas at Carlisle, 
 
 And thither came the vassals, most and least. 
 
 From every corner of the British isle. 
 
 The bill of fare (as you may well suppose) 
 
 Was suited to those plentiful old times. 
 
 Before our modern luxuries arose. 
 
 With truffles and ragouts and various crimes. 
 
 They served up salmon, venison, and wild boars. 
 
 By hundreds, and by dozens, and by scores. 
 
 , Hogsheads of honey, kilderkins of mustard. 
 
 Muttons, and fatted beeves, and bacon swine; 
 
 Herons, and bitterns, peacock, swan, and bustard, 
 
 'feat, mallard, pigeons, widgeons, and, in fine. 
 
 Plum-pudding, pancakes, apple-pies, and custard : 
 
 And therewithal they drank good Gascon wine. 
 
 With mead, and ale, and cyder of our own : 
 
 For porter, punch, and negus were not known. 
 
 At this feast were 
 
 Pilgrims and penitents, and grave burgesses ; 
 
 The country people with their coats of leather ; 
 
 Vintners and victuallers with cans and messes, &c. &c. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xlii 
 
 a few indigenous fruits, such as the acorn, blackberries, rasp¬ 
 berries, wild plums, wild strawberries, cranberries, and a few 
 others, including hazel-nuts, but all our favourite fruits are 
 originally of foreign growth. We learn from Thomas Tusser, 
 who flourished in the sixteenth century, and who published a 
 work which he called Five hundred Points of Good Husbandrie,fyc. 
 that his book contained an account of seedes and herbes for the 
 kychen—herbes and roots for sallels and sawce—herbes and roots to 
 botjle or to butter—strewing herbes of all sorts—herbes to still in sum¬ 
 mer—necessary herbes to grow in gardens for physick, #c. The list 
 contains more than one hundred and fifty kinds, besides a variety 
 of apples, apricots, cherries, peaches, plums, barberries, filberts, 
 grapes both red and white, medlars, mulberries, pears, quinces, 
 strawberries red and white, walnuts, &c. The orange, pomegranate, 
 and melon were introd uced soon afterwards; the pine-apple in 1G90. 
 Of the cookery of the time in which Tusser wrote, nearly three cen¬ 
 turies ago, we may judge in some degree by the following lines, 
 entitled 
 
 Christmas Husbandry Fare. 
 
 Good husband and huswife, now chiefly be glad 
 Things handsome to have as they ought to be had. 
 
 They both do provide against Christinas do come. 
 
 To welcome good neighbour, good cheer to have some. 
 
 Good bread and good drink, a good fire in the hall. 
 
 Brawn, pudding, and sauce, and good mustard withal. 
 
 Beef, mutton, and pork, sh’red pies of the best. 
 
 Pig, veal, goose, and capon, and turkey well drest. 
 
 Cheese, apples, and nuts, jolly carols to hear 
 As then in the country is counted good cheer. 
 
 The Citizens of London have been long famous for their sumptu¬ 
 ous entertainments and their varieties of cookery ; and hence it is 
 not surprising that there have been long established among them 
 several incorporated companies which minister more especially 
 to the pleasures of the table; among which there are ten that 
 are, at the present time, of more or less importance to the citizens, 
 relative to their food and drink. 
 
 In 1313 the following prices were set on victuals: a fat 
 stalled ox, twenty-four shillings ; a fat mutton, twenty pence; a 
 fat goose, two-pence halfpenny ; a fat capon, two-pence; a fat hen, 
 one penny ; twenty-four eggs, one penny, &c. 
 
 1314. The famine and mortality of people were so great at this 
 time, that the living could scarcely bury the dead. Horse-flesh 
 and dog-flesh were good meat. 
 
 1316. An early harvest: a bushel of wheat that had been sold 
 for ten shillings, was now sold for ten-pence. 
 
 To the unobservant ol the present time, such fluctuations appear 
 astonishing. We are now so much accustomed to the regular and 
 constant operation of the supply and demand for food, that we 
 cease to wonder at the two processes; whereas, when carefully 
 examined, they will be found deserving of very great attention. 
 Even the supply of coal has within these few' years become so 
 completely under the control and regulation of human intellect, 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xliii 
 
 that the fluctuation in its price is comparatively trifling; and the 
 lowest citizen may now calculate with tolerable certainty, if 
 behave been industrious, what his Sunday dinner will cost him, as 
 well as the price of cooking it either at home or at the baker’s 
 See an important article on the use of corn in England, iD the 
 Penny Mag. vol. ii. p. 370, from which it appears that some of 
 the Anglo-Saxon monks in the eighth century ate barley-bread 
 because the income of their establishments would not permit them 
 to eat that of wheat. It appears that at the Revolution in 1689 
 wheuten bread formed a small portion only of the food of the 
 people of this country ; about fourteen million bushels of which 
 were then grown in England. In 1828, according to Mr. Jacob, 
 one hundred millions of bushels were grown ; and thus in the 
 former period about three bushels were consumed by each person, 
 in the latter seven. 
 
 That luxury has always more or less prevailed among the good 
 citizens of London, its history for the last five hundred years will 
 evince. In the time of Queen Mary, according to Maitland, 
 (History of London, vol. i, p. 251) luxury prevailed to such an 
 excessive degree in the sumptuousness and extravagance of the 
 city magistrates, that many of the principal citizens chose rather 
 to retire into the country than to serve expensive offices. It 
 was therefore enacted by the Common Council, to prevent such 
 extravagances, that the mayor should have no more than one 
 course either at dinner or supper ; and that on a festival day a 
 flesh day to consist of no more than seven dishes whether hot or 
 cold, and on every festival day being a fish day, eight dishes ; 
 and on every common flesh day, six dishes; and on every common 
 fish day, seven dishes, exclusive of brawn, collops with eggs, 
 salads, potage, butter, eggs, herrings, sprats and shrimps, together 
 with all sorts of shell fish and fruits. 
 
 Regulations were also issued for the aldermen, sheriffs, and 
 city companies at their several entertainments; but with this 
 restriction besides, that they were to have neither swan, crane, 
 nor bustard under the penalty of forty shillings. At the present 
 time one cannot but smile at the egregious folly of issuing such 
 sumptuary edicts. If the good sense of mankind, and the natural 
 punishments which await upon the commission of excesses either 
 in eating or drinking, do not prompt men to avoid them, no laws 
 will do it. The habitual glutton, the habitual drunkard, may be 
 assured that sooner or later their natural punishments will overtake 
 i them. 
 
 We must not forget that the Catholic religion was the state 
 | religion in the time of Mary, and that then, and indeed during 
 many centuries previously, the cookery of this country partook 
 r of the peculiar fasting as well as feasting which that religion is 
 j | calculated to introduce. But it appears that after this period, 
 e | during the reign of Elizabeth, that is, about 250 years ago, 
 j venison feasts, as at the present time, predominated in London in 
 the month of July, and that such feasting proved offensive to the 
 queen and her nobility ; and hence a letter, signed by the lord 
 
 4 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xliv 
 
 mayor and two aldermen, was addressed to Lord Burleigh, in 
 which they say, “ For avoyding the excessive spending of venison 
 and other vitail in the halles of this citie, which we understand 
 to have been offensive to her matie and the nobilitie, we have by 
 act of common counsel forbidden such festes hereafter to be kept, 
 and have restrained the same only to necessary metinges in w h 
 also venison is permitted as by copie of this act herewith sent into 
 yor L. may appere.” 
 
 These worshipful personages complain also in their letter of the 
 expense of venison in taverns and cooks’ houses, and also of the 
 many and great enormities botli of drunkenness, seditions, &c. 
 &c., which they say they have sought means to redress by re¬ 
 straining the eating and drinking in such houses. But they at 
 the same time say that unless the same proceedings be adopted in 
 St. Martin’s and Westminster, &c. their proceedings will not be 
 of much use. See Ellis's original Letters. 
 
 There is one anecdote concerning the sirloin that has been fre¬ 
 quently ,old; it is, that King Charles II., called sometimes 
 the Merry Monarch, after dining off a loin of beef, was so much 
 pleased with it, that he said it should be knighted; that he per¬ 
 formed the ceremony of creating a knight over the loin , and 
 that henceforward it has been called sirloin. In accordance with 
 this presumed fact, Mr. Preston, a poet who flourished !j 
 towards the end of the last century, wrote an address to the 
 sirloin, which thus concludes :— 
 
 Preserv’d in poet’s matchless lay. 
 
 Sirloin! thou shalt ne’er decay. 
 
 But according to the author of Tabella Cibaria, the word sirloin 
 only means sur-loin —the part above (sur) the loins; and this 
 seems the most probable etymology of the word. If any other 
 authority were necessary for this, we might quote Sir Walter 
 Scott, who thus describes ancient Christmas :— 
 
 They open wide the baron’s hall. 
 
 To vassal, tenant, serf, and all ; 
 
 Power laid his rod of rule aside. 
 
 And ceremony doff’d his pride. 
 
 There the huge sirloin reek’d ; hard by 
 Plum porridge stood, and Christmas pie. 
 
 The fire, with well-dried logs supplied. 
 
 Went roaring up the chimney wide. 
 
 It was also usual in some gentlemen’s houses at Christmas, that 
 the first dish should be a boar’s head with a lemon in its mouth. A 
 custom was once, and is still said to be prevalent in some parts of 
 England, (see Hone’s Table-Boolc, page 390) of eating a gammon 
 of bacon at Easter ; we may also state that on Shrove-Tuesday 
 Frey peas and bacon, (as well as pancakes as an after-dish) often 
 formed a substantial meal among our rural population and in farm¬ 
 houses, then, as well as at other times before and during Lent. 
 
 Towards the conclusion of the seventeenth century, we had the 
 able naturalist Ray, who was an accurate observer, and did j 
 much to increase our knowledge ; but still the art of cookery was I 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xlv 
 
 t 
 
 1 
 
 ll 
 
 a 
 
 J 
 
 D 
 
 1 - 
 
 ie 
 
 id 
 
 as 
 
 in a very degraded state. By far the most important book on this 
 subject which appeared at the commencement of the eighteenth 
 century on Cookery, was the ‘‘ Art of Cookery, in imitation of Horace's 
 Art of Poetry, with some letters to Dr. Lister and others, occasioned 
 principally by the title of a book published by the Doctor, being- 
 the works of Apicius Ccslius concerning the soups and sauces of 
 the ancients, with an extract of the greatest curiosities contained 
 in that book : humbly inscribed to the Honourable Beef-steak 
 Club. By William King, L.L.D. 1709,” and certainly Dr. King’s 
 work and the prose which is appended to it deserve perusal by 
 those who take an interest in our art. 
 
 Dr. King was a native of London, and seems to have imbibed a 
 strong prejudice against country persons, imagining, because they 
 are plain in their manners and homely in their attire, that they 
 know nothing: now, we can tell him and others such, that in re¬ 
 gard to cookery in particular, a plain and good substantial dish 
 is more likely to be obtained in the country than in the town, be¬ 
 cause the farmer’s wife attends to the cookery herself, and also 
 because our good housewives of the country are less likely to be 
 corrupted by cookery-books, such as were then to be obtained, and 
 the soups and sauces too prevalent at the tables of the citizens : 
 with an extract from King’s prose we shall leave him. 
 
 ‘‘ Cookery has an influence upon men’s actions” [see page 238 
 of the present work] ‘‘ even in the highest stations of human life. 
 The great philosopher Pythagoras, in his * Golden Verses,’ shews 
 himself to be extremely nice in eating, when he makes it one of 
 his chief principles of morality to abstain from beans. The noblest 
 foundations of honour, justice, and integrity were found to Jie hid 
 in turnips ; for when Cincinnatus left the plough to take the com¬ 
 mand of the Roman army, and afterwards retired to his cottage, 
 having brought home victory, the Samnite ambassadors came to 
 him and tempted him with a large bribe, they found him dressing 
 turnips; on which they withdrew, convinced that it was impossible 
 to prevail upon him who could be contented with such a supper. 
 In short,” says King, “there are no honorary appellations which 
 may not be applied to cooks ; throughout the whole race of Char¬ 
 lemagne the great cook of the palace was one of the prime mini¬ 
 sters of state.” After speaking of Apicius, and informing us that 
 his cookery was contemned and almost abhorred by Seneca and the 
 sober Roman, and that it was neglected till the inferior ages when 
 it was introduced as a help to physic [a very pretty help indeed !] 
 to which Donatus says that the “ kitchen is a handmaid,” [and a 
 handmaid it certainly is of the most important kind when employ¬ 
 ed discreetly and with suitable knowledge,] “ I remember,” con¬ 
 tinues Dr. King, “in our days, that, by a very good author, an old 
 gentleman is introduced as making use of three doctors, Dr. Diet, 
 Dr. Quiet, and Dr. Merriman. They are reported to be excellent 
 physicians; and if kept at a constant pension, their fees will not be 
 very costly.” 
 
 As we have not said any thing in this sketch of Welch 
 Cookery, a few lines from Dr. King’s work may be acceptable. 
 
XIVI 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 “ Our Cambrian fathers, sparing in their food. 
 
 First boiled their hunted goats on bars of wood. 
 
 Sharp hunger was their seasoning, or they took 
 Such salt as issued from the native rock. 
 
 Their sallading was never far to seek, 
 
 The poignant water-grass or savoury leek ; 
 
 Until the British bards adorn’d this isle. 
 
 And taught them how to roast and how to boil. 
 
 Then Taliessin rose and sweetly strung 
 His British harp, instructing while he sung; 
 
 Taught them that honesty they still possess. 
 
 Their truth, their open heart, their modest dress ; 
 
 Duty to kindred, constancy to friends. 
 
 And inward worth which always recommends; 
 
 Contempt of wealth, aud pleasure to appear 
 To all mankind with hospitable cheer.” 
 
 We can subscribe to the main truths in the above picture, and 
 can also with much pleasure state that our Cambrian friends of 
 the present time are still eminently distinguished for their hospi¬ 
 tality. 
 
 Hut we must proceed towards the cookery of our own times, be¬ 
 fore noticing which a lew observations on the more early modes of 
 cooking may be here introduced. 
 
 After the method of obtaining fire was discovered, it appears, as 
 we have seen in treating of the cookery of the primeval inhabitants 
 of the earth, that the roasting of corn formed one of the methods 
 of rendering food agreeable; and it is not at all improbable that 
 fire was soon after employed for the preparation of animal food by 
 broiling it; but we find that baked meats, as well as boiled meats, 
 the vessels in which they were prepared being distinguished in 
 Scriptures by the name of fiesh-pols, formed a portion of the 
 cookery of the Egyptians and doubtless of the Israelites. Such 
 cookery, as well as the baking of bread in ovens as well as on 
 a hot hearth in a vessel covered over with hot ashes, appears 
 to have been practised from the earliest times. Indeed, so early 
 as the time of Abraham cakes were made, that is, baked upon 
 the hearth. And as Moses directed many of the offerings of the 
 people to be prepared by fire, either by roasting upon the altar, by 
 baking in an oven, by frying in the frying-pan, or by boiling, the 
 Israelites were thus early informed concerning the best practices 
 of cookery. When roasting with a spit was introduced it would be 
 difficult to ascertain even as regards this country ; but spits were 
 first turned by the hand, a boy being generally employed for the 
 purpose, although, as we have seen above, they were a short time 
 since, even in Portugal, turned only once during the roasting of 
 the meat; and it is said that Lemery, the chemist, who flourished 
 at the commencement of the eighteenth century, once saw a 
 goose turning a spit on which a turkey was roasting. ( Tabella Ci- 
 baria, page 39.) Dogs were formerly much, and are now, we 
 believe, occasionally employed as turn-spits, particularly in the 
 country, where the progress of improvements is slow. A word oi 
 two more about the spit : it was used in Virgil’s time, and we 
 
INTRODUCTION. xlvii 
 
 dare say long before; but then it was made of hazel; why, it is 
 difficult to say : “ a guilty goat” was sacrificed, 
 
 Stabit sacer ad aram 
 
 P'mguia(pie in verubus torrebimus exta columis. 
 
 “ Whose offer’d entrails shall his crime reproach. 
 
 And drip their fatness from the hazel broach 
 
 Dryden. 
 
 The author of Tahella Cibaria has a note upon this subject (page 
 32) which the curious may consult. We will merely add that 
 when an ox is roasted icliole in the country at the present time, the 
 spit is made of wood; that, although there may be a sort of 
 splendour in the undertaking, it is not a process which we can re¬ 
 commend : we once had a hand in such cookery; the spit w ? as 
 turned by the hand ; the ox was too much done in the body 
 and too little at the head and tail; it was decidedly a wasteful 
 method of cooking; and we should think it very probable that a 
 sheep roasted whole is liable to the same inconvenience. Smoke- 
 jacks are a capital improvement in the method of turning the spit. 
 There is one apparatus which has been long in use in this country, 
 to which most of our citizens are, we believe, total strangers. It 
 consists of what are called in our dictionaries andirons, that is, irons 
 to hold the spit as in the hand, so that it may turn readily ; they 
 should therefore be called handirons : they are essential to the 
 support of the spit when the fire is made without a grate upon the 
 hearth. But these vestiges of our old methods of roasting are now 
 become rusty and little known. Baking upon the hearth under an 
 inverted iron pot covered all over with hot ashes is still practised 
 by many of our rural population. We may be also tolerably 
 certain that baked meats formed a very common dish among our 
 ancestors, for we find in Shakespeare that 
 
 “ The funeral bak’d meats 
 
 Did coldly furnish forth the marriage tables.”— Hamlet. 
 
 As to the manner in which dishes were formerly served up, it is a 
 fact, that in many of our rural districts a complete set of pewter 
 platters and plates were kept and formed a distinguishing charac¬ 
 teristic of the kitchen dresser. This pewter was kept bright by 
 proper scouring. 
 
 “ At your dessert bright pewter comes too late, 
 
 When your first!course was all served up in plate.” 
 
 King. 
 
 But among the more humble peasantry and small farmers, within 
 our recollection, trenchers, either square or round, were in common 
 use in the West. To advert to the use of tea : we can very well re¬ 
 member an old lady born in the beginning of the last century, who 
 had so little notion of the nature of tea, that when her daughter 
 brought her some from Bath, she boiled it in water, and s lid she 
 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xlviii 
 
 thought it must be best with rum or salt in it. What then, it may 
 be asked, did such persons eat for their breakfast? Bread and 
 milk, bread and cheese with beer, or animal broth of some kind, 
 thickened with oatmeal, with the addition of milk, and flaxoured 
 with leeks, or the petals of marigold flowers, or parsley. 
 
 “ What lord of old would bid his cook prepare 
 Mangoes, potargo, champignons, caviare ; 
 
 Or would our thrum-capp’d ancestors find fault 
 For want of sugar-tongs or spoons for salt.” 
 
 King. 
 
 Perhaps not, as sugar was little, if at all, known in this country 
 before the discovery of the West Indies, honey, as in other places in 
 ancient times, supplying its place. And salt, although brought 
 to the table in some vessel, was possibly taken up by the knife or : 
 the fingers. But the vinegar-cruet has long been known ; and we 
 suppose, before the general introduction of glass, that vinegar j 
 must have been brought to the table in a vessel of earthenware. ; 
 The Romans brought it to their entertainments in a sort of cup, , 
 which they called acetabulum, and hence, from the familiarity of , 
 the thing, the anatomists called, in ancient times, the sockets of 1 
 some of our bones and that of the thigh-bone in particular, the us 
 femoris, acetabulum. The pepper-box, too, is an old article and was for¬ 
 merly made of brass. The salt-cellar and salt-box are also old inmates 
 of our dwellings. As salt so readily absorbs moisture from the air, 
 the box was, and generally now is, hung up in some place near the 
 fire. The skimmer and ladle are also old articles, formerly of more 
 importance than they now are, particularly the last. The first was 
 usually, and sometimes now is, very improperly made of brass, as 
 many other implements of cookery too often were ; more especially 
 as it was a very common practice to boil on it in the pot a cake made 
 of flour and suet with the addition sometimes of currants ; and 
 hence it was called skimmer-cake. The ladles were of wood : some of 
 them were large enough in the bowl to dip up apple-dumplings, which 
 were always boiled without a cloth in the open vessel. But bas¬ 
 ting-ladles were then made of brass. And as for milk-puns, they 
 were all seen shining in brass under the dresser or some conve¬ 
 nient place. But these are now very generally superseded by 
 earthenware, of which that called stone-ware is unquestionably the 
 best Of the utility of milk-pans made of zinc, which some gen¬ 
 tleman farmer has lately proposed for the dairy, we cannot speak. 
 As zinc combines with the lactic acid, we suspect, therefore, its 
 wholesomeness for such vessels. Of all metallic bodies after 
 gold and silver, to which may be added platinum, iron is beyond 
 a doubt the most wholesome ; but, from its liability to rust, even 
 tnat becomes sometimes disagreeable. Dripping-pans are now 
 most commonly made of tin-plate ; but we have seen many old 
 dripping-pans entirely of iron, and of such material they, we 
 doubt not, in ancient times most commonly were. 
 
 How some of the better sort of country folk fared in the time of 
 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 xlix 
 
 Shakespeare, we may learn by what directions are given by Jus¬ 
 tice Shallow, (Henry IV. Part II. Act v.) a Gloucestershire ma¬ 
 gistrate, to his cook : 
 
 “ Some pigeons, Davy ; a couple of short-legged hens ; a joint of 
 mutton; and any pretty, little, tiny kickshaws.” 
 
 What was considered the fare of a gourmand in those days we 
 may learn from the same source by the papers found in the pocket, 
 of Falstaff, (Henry IV. Part I. Act ii.) 
 
 “ A capon 2s. 2d. ; sauce 4 d. ; sack, 2 gallons, 5s. 8 d. ; anchovies and 
 sack after supper 2s. 6 d. ; bread, a halfpenny.” 
 
 We must not forget that tea, sugar, coffee, chocolate, cocoa, and 
 potatoes are comparatively of modern introduction, and were not 
 known to our Anglo-Saxon ancestors; and consequently they 
 could have no such meal as that which we call Tea. They supped 
 much earlier than we now do ; although in many parts of the 
 country at the present time supper is often over, particularly in 
 winter time, long before our fashionables have dined. On the 
 meals and their periods a curious account may be here given ; but 
 our limits utterly preclude any further notice of them. 
 
 We have alluded to the leeks employed by the Welch above ; 
 but it should be known that leeks minced tolerably fine were, du¬ 
 ring our days of youth, employed in the West in almost all the 
 broth which was taken in the morning instead of tea ; such 
 broth was generally called by the name ol porridge, from the Latin 
 name porrum for the leek ; hence there was a vessel called a porrin¬ 
 ger, a sort of basin with handles, out of which the porridge was 
 eaten ; it was sometimes made of pewter and sometimes of some 
 coarse earthenware. The Welch, we all know, wear leeks in 
 their hats upon St. David’s day ; and Shakespeare in Henry V. has 
 a humorous account of one of his characters, Fluellen, a Welch¬ 
 man, making Pistol eat a leek for having ridiculed him, telling 
 him that if he could mock a leek he could eat a leek. But it is 
 not our business to enter into the history of Welch customs. 
 We will only add that Columella calls Aricia the mother of 
 leeks, “ Mater Aricia porri and that although the leek as a con¬ 
 diment is pleasant to the robust, it is not suited to, nor is it em¬ 
 ployed by, many of our city inhabitants : the smell is rank, and 
 it will not agree with many stomachs ; it is however rendered by 
 boiling, when blanched, a palatable dish. See page 224. It is said 
 that Nero, the Roman emperor, was called, on account of his fond¬ 
 ness for this condiment, Porrophagus, that is, leek-eater. 
 
 We have, under our account of the Cookery, of France, given 
 an abstract of a catalogue of viands of various kinds, and of the 
 places in which they are to be obtained in the greatest abun¬ 
 dance ; we might give a similar extract of our own viands, but it 
 appears scarcely necessary : we may, however, just observe that 
 Norfolk is famous for turkeys ; Stilton, Cheddar, and Cheshire 
 for cheese; Milton for oysters; the Thames and the Severn for 
 salmon; the Thames also for white-bait, smelts, fyc.; Devonshire 
 
 d 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 for poultry and potted cream , and Dorset for butter; Oxford and 
 Epping for sausages ; Birmingham for tripe; the South Downs 
 and Wales for sheep ; Lincolnshire and Somersetshire for fat oxen ; 
 Wiltshire and Gloucestershire for bacon; fyc. fyc. 
 
 The farmer has brown bread as fresh as day. 
 
 And butter fragrant as the dew of May ;— 
 
 Cornwall squab-pie, and Devon white pot brings, 
 
 And Leicester, beans and bacon fit for kings. 
 
 King. 
 
 Of stimulating liquors we have also our particular regions. 
 London is noted for its porter, and some other malt liquors ; 
 Maidstone for gin; Scotland and Ireland for whiskey; Barton, 
 Kennet, Dorchester, and Edinburgh for ale ; Devonshire, Somer¬ 
 setshire, and Herefordshire for cyder; and Gloucestershire for 
 perry. 
 
 We must, however, here advert to some other authors besides 
 King, who wrote on cookery during the last century ; and really 
 they are so numerous and voluminous, that one hardly knows 
 with which to begin.* The work of Mrs. Glasse stands promi¬ 
 nent, although Glasse is a nom de guerre ; it being written by Sir 
 John Hill, a gentleman who wrote on a variety of subjects, and 
 who obtained the degree of M. D. from Scotland, (at that time no 
 difficulty,) of whom Garrick said that 
 
 For physic and farces his equal there scarce is. 
 
 His farces are physic, his physic a farce is. 
 
 One really w'onders that a person who had at least some preten¬ 
 sions to medical knowledge, did not throw a little of what he 
 possessed concerning diet into his cookery-book; but he appears 
 to have followed in the path of other writers in the same line. 
 This character of Hill’s work will mostly apply to others 
 which appeared during the last century, and therefore this general 
 notice of them must suffice. They contained occasionally some 
 French dishes, such as an ambigu, a fricassee, fyc. t 
 
 The period of bad taste in cookery has, we hope, passed away, 
 and with it that crowd of incongruous recipes with which for ages 
 our cookery-books have been all loaded. In this respect Dr. 
 Kitchener’s Cook's Oracle has done considerable service to the 
 
 * Kitchener says that he patiently pioneered through more than two 
 hundred cookery-books before recording the results of his own experi¬ 
 ence. We confess that we have done no such thing; having found the 
 many which we have examined, for the most part mere copies of one 
 another, with occasionally slight variations. 
 
 t Dr. King seems to have entertained a high opinion of French 
 dishes : he says, 
 
 “ The French our relish help, and will supply 
 The want of things too gross by decency. 
 
 Our fathers most admired their sauces sweet. 
 
 And often asked for sugar with their meat: 
 
 They butter’d currants on fat veal bestow’d. 
 
 And rumps of beef with virgin honey strew’d.” 
 
I INTRODUCTION. 
 
 I 
 
 art; and had he done what of all the writers on cookery 
 he was most capable of doing, namely, applied his medical 
 knowledge of diet to his book so as to render it a manual of 
 dietetics, our labours would have been to a certain extent su¬ 
 perseded. It would be invidious to name our other modern 
 works on cookery; many of them very useful in their way; 
 we have occasionally named some of them in the body of our 
 work; but they all want what, we hope, we have usefully 
 supplied. 
 
 Wemustnow once more advert to our friend M. Careme, whose 
 opinion of English cookery is perhaps more valuable to us than 
 any which we may entertain amongst ourselves. He was for eight 
 months chef de cuisine of the Prince Regent of England ; and he 
 mentions with some exultation, that for seven months of the time 
 he never quitted his post; and that his Royal Highness never felt 
 during the w hole period any attack of the gout; while, before 
 M. Careme’s arrival in that royal mansion, (Brighton, we believe,) 
 the cookery was so strong and spiced ( aromatis&e ) that the Prince 
 w r as frequently tormented with it both day and night. The result 
 proved the excellence of Car£me’s cookery ! 
 
 M. Careme admits that the fishmongers' shops of London are 
 very superior to those in France, and is very desirous of seeing 
 such in that country, full as ours are with both fresh and salt¬ 
 water fish. But he says that our pork-shops are very inferior to 
 those of France. He mentions that he found in London a small 
 kind of pig originally from China, the flesh of which is both 
 tender and very delicate ; and he recommends its introduction to 
 France as a service to be rendered d, Vart de la gastronomie ! 
 
 The vegetables (legumes') of London he says are very dear, and 
 in summer sufficiently difficult to be obtained. This is really so 
 gross a mis-statement that it must not be passed over. We have 
 always thought that in London vegetables could be obtained as 
 cheap and, we believe, frequently cheaper than at any other place in 
 England. It is true, if you w'illhave them out of season, and when 
 they are scarce, you must pay a good price for them. But the 
 cooks of kings are not very likely, and we say it with all possible 
 respect, to know how, or to take the best method to obtain cheap 
 viands. Careme admits, however, that it is very pleasant to have 
 all the vegetables, such as peas, &c. &c. shelled and ready to be 
 boiled ; to be sure it is ; and if the cook choose to be saved all 
 such trouble, he, she, or their masters must pay for it! He goes 
 on to say that it is true our stoves and hot-houses furnish, as in 
 Russia and Vienna, vegetables throughout the year; but he com¬ 
 plains that they are very dear, and that they are not of so good a 
 quality as those of France, where notre heureux climat gives in 
 abundance the novelties according to the four seasons. The 
 answer to this querulousness is very simple, namely, that if you 
 will have fruits out of season, you must pay for them a good price 
 or you cannot obtain them. But M. Careme could not find 
 (truffes) truffles in England; he went a journey (dans le nord) in 
 the north to find them; why did he not go westward ? He says, 
 
 d 2 
 
II 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 loo, that he did not see an English truffle while he remained in the 
 sen ice of the Prince Regent. 
 
 He says that our fruits are not equal to those of France, and 
 perhaps they are not; but grapes may be obtained in London 
 equal to those of France ; and although some of their wines of 
 the south are good and tolerably strong, a considerable portion 
 are little better than, if so good as, our best cyder. 
 
 He says that our butchers-ineat is very good, but that it has 
 not as much (unctuositS) unctuousness as that of France, and 
 consequently is not so well adapted to sauces and consommes. 
 And with much complacency he asserts that the cattle of France 
 are superior in nutritive quality to those of England ; that London 
 has nothing to compare with their elegant butchers’ shops, and 
 particularly with the abbatoirs of Paris. 
 
 He does, however, admit that our mutton, veal, lamb, and (les 
 rostbifs) beef are tender and juicy; indeed, generally more 
 tender than those of France. This arises, he says, from the ani¬ 
 mals being killed younger than they are in France ; and also 
 from another cause, that of employing (le charbon de terref \nt- 
 coal for our fires, which affords a heat more equal and more pe¬ 
 netrating than that of wood ; w'hich last burns out quickly when 
 once it is kindled, while our coal-fire continues half the day 
 through with an equal heat. He mentions also the convenience 
 of the smoke-jack which turns without ceasing. Assuredly, 
 exclaims he, that regularity is something in obtaining beautiful 
 roast meat. 
 
 The essential articles of the English kitchen, continues he, are 
 beef, veal, mutton, or lamb roasted, or the same boiled with salt; 
 as well as fish and vegetables ; but turtle-soup, le potage it la 
 tortue, is truly the national soup of England. Pastry of fruits 
 and pudding of all kind ; fowls and turkeys with cauliflowers, 
 salt beef, hams, and some mets and ragofits constitute all or nearly 
 all of English cookery, (and what, M. Careme, can we wish 
 more ?) The rest, he says, belongs to la cuisine Frangaise. 
 
 We might be disposed to break a lance with M. Careme upon 
 the question that turtle-soup is the national soup of England ; but 
 we must forbear by merely observing that we believe it is the soup 
 of the gourmand every where when to be obtained ; but it is no 
 more the national soup of England than the thigh of the frog is 
 the national dish of France. The greater portion of our population 
 has never even partaken of such soup; how should they ? it is 
 at all times dear and scarce, except in a few of our maritime 
 cities and large towns.* 
 
 * We beg leave here to call the reader’s attention to Bristol in parti¬ 
 cular, which was towards the conclusion of the last century distin¬ 
 guished by a celebrated inn called the Bush, and which, at Christmas, 
 was famous for its bill of fare, as well indeed as at most other times. 
 The landlord’s name was John Weeks, a spirited citizen, who gloried 
 in ministering to the taste of his guests. We subjoin the most important 
 items of his Bill of Fare for Christmas, 1800. A turtle of 120 lbs. •, 72 
 pots of turtle ; a bustard ; red game j black game •, fish of almost innu- 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 liii 
 
 As the turtle enters so largely into all the feasts of the present 
 time, we cannot do better than present our readers with the fol¬ 
 lowing account of that animal principally extracted from our 
 Cyclopasdia:— 
 
 Tortoise, or Testudo, a genus of amphibious reptiles consisting 
 of thirty-five species, scattered over various parts of the globe. 
 
 The green turtle is so named, not from the exterior colour, but 
 from the green tinge which its fat frequently exhibits when the 
 animal is taken in the highest degree of perfection ; it is one of 
 the largest of the genus, often measuring above five feet in length, 
 and weighing more than five or six hundred pounds. A native of 
 the West Indies; flesh esteemed a dainty. It has been occasion¬ 
 ally taken on the coast of France. They lay their eggs, (many 
 hundreds,) which are about the size of tennis-balls, and covered 
 with a smooth parchment-like skin, in holes which they dig in 
 the sand above high-water mark, and which are hatched by the 
 sun in about three weeks. 
 
 The Americans find the catching turtle so advantageous that 
 they have rendered themselves very expert at it: they watch 
 them from their nests on shore in moonlight nights, and before 
 they can reach the sea turn them on their backs and leave them 
 till morning, when they are sure to find them, as they are utterly 
 unable to recover their former posture : at other times they hunt 
 them in boats with a peculiar kind of spear, striking them with 
 it through the shell, and as there is a cord fastened to the spear, 
 they are taken much in the same manner as the whale. 
 
 M. Careme has given in his work, Le Maitre d’Hotel Francois , 
 Bills of Fare of the table of the Prince Regent of .England for 
 several months; and also bills of fare of the most fashionable 
 cookery in France, as well as in some other countries, for almost 
 every day in the year; bills of fare of the dinners served up for 
 the emperor of Russia, the princes and generals during his sojourn 
 at Paris in 1815, &c. &c. But we cannot more particularly 
 advert to these ; we must content ourselves with one only of those 
 as served up at the Prince Regent’s tables, Jan. 8th, 1817. We 
 give it exactly as M. Careme has given it, and also in the same 
 language, just observing, by the way, that it is by no means the 
 most splendid which embellished his Royal Highness’s table : 
 the dishes were upon particular occasions much more numerous. 
 
 Table de S. A. R. Le Prince Regent, Servie au pavilion de 
 Brighton, Angleterre, 8 Janvier, 1817. Menu de 32 entries. 
 
 merable kinds ; venison ; 42 hares; 87 wild ducks ; pheasants 17 ; 
 partridges 41 ; wild geese 17 ; snipes 149 ; woodcocks 81 ; wild turkeys 
 17 ; other turkeys 44 ; geese 10 ; capons 8 ; pigeons 116 ; Pyfleet and 
 Colchester oysters 52 barrels ; &c. &c. See Hone’s Table-Book, vol. ii. 
 page 44. 
 
 The Bush at Bristol was, during Weeks’s time, and indeed long after¬ 
 wards, particularly celebrated for its turtle , although we understand that 
 latterly its fame in this respect is on the wane, the Montagu, an inn in 
 another part of the city, having in a measure usurped its place. 
 
IV 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Quatre potages. 
 
 Le potage cle lievre au chasseur, 
 
 Le potage de saut6 au cousomme de volaille, 
 
 Le potage aux laitues, 
 
 Le macaroni lie a l’ltalienne. 
 
 Quatre relevis de poissons. 
 
 Les perches au vin de champagne, 
 
 L’anguille & la regence, 
 
 Le turbot grille, sauce aux homards, 
 
 Le cabillaud a la Hollandaise. 
 
 Quatre gi-osses pieces. 
 
 Le dindon braise aux huitres, 
 
 Le filet de boeuf pique glace, 
 
 Les poulets a la tinanciere, 
 
 Le quartier de sanglier, gelee de grosseilles. 
 
 Quatre contre-flans. 
 
 Le pain de gibier sur un socle, 
 
 La poularde sur un socle, 
 
 Le turban sur un socle, 
 
 La galantine sur un socle, 
 
 Quatre plats rdts. 
 
 Le chapon au cresson, 
 
 Le lievre a l’Anglaise, 
 
 Le dindonneau au cresson, 
 
 Les pluviers bardes. 
 
 Huit entremets. 
 
 Les pommes de terre frites, 
 
 Les asperges, 
 
 Les huitres au gratin, 
 
 La salade de volaille, (singulier entremets.) 
 
 Les salsifis au beurre, 
 
 Les epinards a la Fraucaise, 
 
 Les trulfes a la serviette, 
 
 Les ecrivisses au Madere. 
 
 We next present the reader with a summary of the Bill of Fare 
 of the banquet given by George tiie Fourth on the 19th of July, 
 1822, in Westminster Hall, on the day of his coronation. 
 
 Hot dishes. 1G0 tureens of soup ; 80 of turtle; 40 of rice ; 
 40 of vermicelli; 80 dishes of turbot; 40 of trout; 40 of salmon ; 
 80 dishes of venison; 40 of roast beef; 3 basins of beef; 40 
 dishes of mutton and veal; 160 dishes of vegetables, including 
 potatoes, peas, and cauliflowers ; 480 sauce-boats ; 240 lobsters ; 
 120 of butter ; 120 of mint. 
 
 Cold dishes. 80 of braised ham ; 80 savory pies ; 80 of geese 
 a la daube, two in each dish ; 80 of savory cakes; 80 of braised 
 beef; 80 of braised capons, two in each dish ; 1190 side dishes of 
 various kinds ; 320 of mounted pastry ; 400 of jellies and creams ; 
 
INTRODUCTION. Iv 
 
 80 of lobsters; 80 of crayfish; 161 of roast fowls; 80 of house- 
 lamb. 
 
 Total quantities. Beef 7442 lbs.; veal 7133 lbs.; mutton 2474 
 lbs.; house-lamb 20 quarters ; legs of ditto 20 ; lamb 5 saddles ; 
 grass-lamb 55 quarters; lamb sweetbreads 160; cow-heels 389; 
 calves-feet 400; suet 250 lbs. ; geese 160; pullets and capons 
 720 ; chicken 1610 ; fowls for stock 520 ; bacon 1730 lbs.; lard 
 550 lbs.; butter 912 lbs. ; eggs 8400. 
 
 The wines. Champagne 100 doz.; Burgundy 20 doz.; Claret 
 more than 200 doz.; Hock 50 doz ; Moselle 50 doz.; Madeira 
 50 doz.; Sherry and Port about 350 doz.; iced punch 100 gallons. 
 The Champagne, Hock, and Moselle were iced before being 
 placed upon the table. 
 
 The expenses of this banquet and the coronation together 
 amounted to the sum of £238,238. As a contrast to this it may be 
 also mentioned that the banquet and coronation of his present 
 Majesty William the Fourth, which took place September. 
 1831, did not cost £50,000. 
 
 As a sort of set-off against the superior fruits of France, it may be 
 mentioned that, at the coronation of George the Fourth, the glut of 
 fruit was unprecedented; that in regard to pine-apples, a gen¬ 
 tlemen of Lambeth cut sixty ripe fruit on the occasion ; and that 
 many hundreds remarkable for size and flavour came from distant 
 parts of the country; one from Lord Cawdor’s weighed 10 lbs. 
 and formed part of the royal banquet. Pine-apples are not to be 
 obtained at Paris : when wanted at grand entertainments, they are 
 generally procured from Covent-Garden Market by means of the 
 government messengers who are constantly passing between the 
 two capitals. From our possessing coals, and our gardeners being 
 well versed in the methods of raising fruit under glass, it is pro¬ 
 bable that w r e shall always maintain a superiority in the produc¬ 
 tion of this delicious article for the dessert. See Hone’s Table- 
 Book, vol. ii, page 138. 
 
 We conclude our history of cookery with this piece of wholesome 
 advice :— 
 
 Then, be SIMPLICITY your constant care ; 
 
 Of ARTIFICIAL viands still beware. 
 
 The road is plain that leads to pristine health ; 
 
 No other way, howe’er bestrown with wealth. 
 
 Will to that object safely you convey— 
 
 The labourer’s road ; —the linger-post obey ! 
 
VI 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 THE NATURE OF WATER. ITS IMPORTANCE IN 
 COOKING, HOW TO PURIFY FOUL, ETC. 
 
 There is, perhaps, nothing that more readily affects the health 
 than the nature of the water employed in cooking our food, as in 
 almost every process water is not only an agent but forms a com¬ 
 ponent part of the food itself. Pure water, therefore, when it 
 can be procured, is highly desirable for all cooking operations, and 
 we shall, when speaking further of the properties of water, des¬ 
 cribe the method of detecting the various impurities contained in 
 it, though to these niceties of chemistry there will be found few 
 cooks inclined to attend ; but to one impurity more than all others 
 we would call their careful attention, and this not only because it 
 is of the worst description, but because it is that which they are 
 most likely to encounter. Water left to cool in any copper vessel 
 is sure to become impregnated by the rust of the metal, and on 
 this account, when copper saucepans or boilers are used, the article 
 boiled in them should be emptied out immediately it is boiled 
 sufficiently, and then no taint will be received from the copper. 
 Servants are very apt to be careless in the use of their saucepans, 
 not considering that one of the most deadly poisons is often gene¬ 
 rated by their want of care. The presence of copper may be de¬ 
 tected by plunging a common knife perfectly free from grease 
 into the water, or whatever liquid it may be ; copper, if present, 
 will be formed on the knife, owing to the greater affinity ol iron for 
 oxygen, the iron having decomposed the salt of copper in the water. 
 
 Pure water is transparent, and without either colour, taste, or 
 smell. In consequence of the facility of obtaining it pure, it is 
 assumed as a standard, to which the relative weights of all other 
 bodies may be compared, its specific gravity being called 1000. 
 
 A pint of pure water, wine-measure, weighs, or is assumed 
 to weigh, sixteen ounces avoirdupois. 
 
 Water is capable of dissolving a greater number of natural 
 bodies than any other fluid whatever, and especially those known 
 by the name of saline. It also performs the most important func¬ 
 tions in the vegetable and animal kingdoms, and enters largely 
 into their compositions as a constituent part. It is found through¬ 
 out the earth not only in the uncombined states of ice, liquidity, 
 and steam, but permanently united to a vast number of bodies, 
 both solid, fluid, and gaseous. 
 
 On the common and necessary uses of w’ater we need not 
 enlarge ; but water, when freed from vegetable matter or other 
 substances, which are disposed to decomposition, is, beyond a 
 doubt, next to atmospheric air, the most valuable pabulum for the 
 support of the human body, and for preserving it in good healh, 
 it entering largely into the composition of our fluids, and promo¬ 
 ting the due action of all our functions. 
 
 The purity of water may be known by the following marks or 
 properties. Pure water is lighter and more fluid than water that 
 is not pure ; it wets more easily than the waters coutaining earthy 
 
THE NATURE OF WATER. 
 
 lvii 
 
 And metallic salts, called hard waters, and feels softer when 
 touched ; soap, or a solution of soap in alcohol, mixes easily and 
 perfectly with it; it is not rendered turbid by adding to it a solu 
 tion of gold, in aqua regia, or a solution of silver, or of lead, or 
 of mercury, in nitric acid, or a solution of acetate of lead in 
 water. 
 
 A variety of bodies are to be found in most spring water ; but 
 that which is most common is carbonate of lime, and which at¬ 
 taches itself in abundance to the sides of tea-kettles, and is com¬ 
 monly denominated fur or rock. It has been supposed that when the 
 water which is drunk contains an abundance of this substance, it 
 is more likely to produce the stone or gravel, but the most modern 
 inquiries on this subject do not countenance the opinion. 
 
 The purest water, and of course that which is the softest, is 
 unquestionably the best, and ought to be preferred in all culinary 
 operations. But soft water, with much vegetable or animal mat¬ 
 ter in a state of decomposition, is much less wholesome than hard 
 spring water. Next to pure rain water the water of a rivulet 
 which is in continual motion is perhaps the best. 
 
 As a constant beverage with our food, water is to be preferred 
 to any other liquid ; nor have any cases been recorded in which 
 the daily use of this fluid has been productive of detrimental 
 effects. 
 
 In London and its immediate vicinity water can generally be 
 procured in a state sufficiently pure for all common purposes, or if 
 it comes to us impure or turbid in rainy or after frosty weather, it 
 commonly subsides and becomes quite clear when it has remained 
 at least for a few hours. But circumstances sometimes arise that 
 render the attainment of pure water difficult or even impossible ; 
 in that case the following directions from Forsyth’s Dieteticon will 
 be found extremely serviceable. 
 
 Directions for ■purifying any given quantity of corrupted water, 
 spring wafer, ^-c. —When it is intended to purify any given quantity 
 of corrupted water, we should begin by adding to it as much 
 powder of charcoal as is necessary to deprive it entirely of its 
 bad smell, and in order to ascertain whether the quantity of char¬ 
 coal added be sufficient, a small portion of the water may be pass¬ 
 ed through a linen bag two or three inches long; if the water thus 
 filtered has still a turbid appearance, a fresh supply of charcoal 
 must be added until it becomes perfectly clear ; the whole of the 
 water may thus be passed through a filtering-bag, the size of 
 which should be proporiioned to the quantity of water. If vitrio¬ 
 lic or any other acid can be procured, a small quantity of it should 
 be added to the water before the powdered charcoal is used, the 
 quantity of acid being regulated by the state of putridity in which 
 the water is found. The quantity of acid should be sufficient to 
 communicate to the water a degree of acidity just perceptible to 
 the taste : if the water be merely intended for dressing vegetables, 
 instead of acid, such a quantity of sea-salt as would be proper for 
 seasoning the above articles may be employed. Saline substances 
 like acids hasten the effect of the charcoal powder; by making 
 
 d 3 
 
Vlll 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 use of acids a much less quantity of powdered charcoal is neces¬ 
 sary; and so easy is the process to any one accustomed to opera¬ 
 tions of this kind, that four or five minutes only are required to 
 render several gallons of putrid water fit to drink. In like man¬ 
 ner to improve the taste of those spring waters which naturally 
 have an hepatic flavour, and are therefore unpleasant to use, 
 nothing more is necessary than to filter them through a bag half 
 filled with powdered charcoal; if such waters are not very much 
 loaded with mucilaginous particles, the addition of an acid is not 
 necessary ; four or five ounces of powdered charcoal is sufficient 
 to purify two quarts of water when no acid is made use of; but 
 six drachms of powdered charcoal have been found sufficient to 
 deprive three pints of water of its bad smell, and to render it per¬ 
 fectly clear, provided at the same time twenty-four drops of vitrio¬ 
 lic acid were added, but to deprive it of its bad taste a larger 
 quantity of charcoal is requisite. Charcoal takes from the water 
 a part of the acid which has been made use of ; thus, if two drops 
 of sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol) are put into four ounces of water, 
 the water will become sensibly acid, but this acidity will imme¬ 
 diately disappear if a small quantity of powdered charcoal be 
 added to the water. 
 
 Water may be deprived of its putrid and pernicious qualities by 
 boiling, filtering, or most effectually by distillation. It has been 
 already stated, that acids and charcoal will correct putrid water ; 
 the same result may be produced by alum, half an ounce of which 
 in powder will make twelve gallons of corrupted water pure and 
 transparent in two hours without imparting any sensible degree of 
 astringency to it; by the addition of a very small quantity of quick 
 lime water may be preserved from corruption on long voyages. 
 Vinegar or other strong acids are also well calculated to correct 
 putrid water, and may be either mixed with it or drunk immediate¬ 
 ly after to prevent its bad effects. 
 
 When water is hard, as spring water generally is, it is very dif¬ 
 ficult to preserve the colour of green vegetables and to boil them 
 tender without boiling them so long as to entirely change their 
 colour; a few grains of carbonate of soda, say as much as will 
 lay on a sixpence, will render a gallon of water sufficiently soft to 
 boil the vegetable quickly and preserve their greenness, without 
 imparting any hurtful qualities to the vegetables : on the contrary, 
 the carbonate of soda, by neutralizing the acid contained in the 
 vegetables, prevents that disagreeable consequence that sometimes 
 results to persons of weak stomachs from eating vetetables. 
 
 A FEW USEFUL HINTS TO YOUNG HOUSEKEEPERS. 
 
 The first and most important point to be attended to by the 
 young housekeeper is to introduce order into her establishment; 
 to do this with effect she must ascertain exactly what sum is to be 
 expended in housekeeping generally, then deduct some part as a 
 fund for extraordinary occasions, such as parties, festivals, &c. 
 It will then be advisable to appropriate the remainder to the 
 
HINTS TO HOUSEKEEPERS. 
 
 IX 
 
 various household expenditures, saying, so much is to be appro¬ 
 priated to butcher’s meat, so much to poultry, so much to fish,— 
 then, fruit, vegetables, confectionary, &c. &c. and if one article 
 exceeds another must be curtailed in order to keep within the 
 appointed total. If one week exceeds the usual total, the expen¬ 
 diture of the next ought to be reduced to keep within the assigned 
 limits. The mistress should visit her kitchen early each day, give 
 her orders distinctly, and give out of her store-room or closet all 
 the articles the cook may be in want of, such as sugar, tea, spices, 
 soap, candles, &c.: this will prevent waste or embezzlement. Let 
 everything be ordered and given out in time that no hurry or con¬ 
 fusion may occur at the last. It is better that the mistress order 
 the articles from tradespeople herself, but whether she does or 
 not, a bill should be required stating weight and price; this enables 
 the cook to re-weigh or measure articles sent in, and prevents 
 mistakes or frauds. These bills should be discharged every week 
 while the things are fresh in the memory. Articles are purchased 
 at a cheaper rate and of better quality when tradesmen are not 
 required to give long credit. 
 
 Regular accounts should be kept of all expenditure, that it may 
 be readily ascertained if any excessive consumption takes place, 
 which will detect any fraud or waste should they be attempted. 
 
 Articles that do not soon decay should be purchased in large 
 quantities ; soap, candles, and many other articles improve by 
 keeping. Tea, sugar, starch, &c. may be purchased cheapest in 
 larger quantities, but seeds generally deteriorate, so that rice, 
 oatmeal, &c. should be purchased more frequently, and any that 
 is kept should be put in an earthen jar and well secured from the 
 air, as rice particularly is liable to be attacked by an insect which 
 spoils it, and oatmeal soon turns sour unless carefully kept from 
 air and damp. 
 
 When bread is baked at home, which however is not commonly 
 done in London, flour should be purchased from the mill by the 
 sack, and the sack must be placed on a stand like a barrel, so as 
 not to touch the ground ; it must also be put in a dry place. 
 
 Where a professed cook or housekeeper is not kept, it is cheaper 
 to purchase delicate articles of confectionary than to make them, 
 but common preserves, such as currants, raspberries, gooseberries, 
 &c. are more cheaply made at home, and for these articles refined 
 sugar is cheaper and better than raw or soft, as.it goes farther and 
 does not ferment. 
 
 In preparing dishes for the table, tastes and palates vary so much 
 that it will be well to keep a book and copy into it those recipes 
 which have been tried and approved into the same book : various 
 approved methods of performing different operations of cookery, 
 &c. which will be communicated to you from time to time should 
 also be entered. A person who thus appropriates all the useful 
 information she obtains -will never be at a loss, and will be able to 
 perform the same operation twice equally well, which the forget¬ 
 ting some trifling particular frequently prevents. 
 
ix 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 A CHAPTER FOR SERVANTS. 
 
 So many valuable books have been published containing direc¬ 
 tions to domestics of the present day, that we shall not be obliged 
 to go into a long detail of domestic duties. A most useful little 
 •work entitled “ The Female Servant’s Adviser,” abounds in 
 maxims of prudence, and gives detailed directions for arranging 
 the breakfast, dinner, tea, and supper tables, with hints for the 
 preservation and management of meat, fish, poultry, game, vege¬ 
 tables, &c. besides the best methods of cleaning furniture, looking- 
 glasses, gilt frames, articles of steel and brass, decanters, glasses, 
 plate, lamps, and, indeed, all the routine of the cook or house¬ 
 maid’s business. For the laundress <here are rules for washing 
 laces, muslins, linens, flannels, &c. with judicious advice as to 
 the removal of stains of every kind ; and the work is rendered 
 still more valuable from its comprising a brief statement of the 
 law as it regards servant and master; and the whole is so well con¬ 
 densed and compactly arranged that it may be carried in the pocket 
 (w'hich we hope, by-the-bye, our readers wear), and may be pro¬ 
 cured at a very small charge. This little book has been justly- 
 characterized by the editor of the Home Missionary Magazine as 
 “ the most useful and best intentioned book in print.”—“ Here is 
 a little book,” says another journalist, (the editor of the Taunton 
 Courier,) “ that ought to be placed in the hands of all servants, 
 as it not only inculcates in the most emphat.ical manner the sacred 
 Obligations of faithfulness, industry, and duty, and suggests to 
 servants a variety of hints and instructions for occasioning large 
 savings in the use and employment of their masters and mistresses’ 
 property and provisions, but it contains a synopsis of their duties, 
 and a detail of th6 best and most approved methods of performing 
 the various occupations of household service, so familiarly ex¬ 
 plained and so usefully deduced from the best results of an expe¬ 
 rienced housekeeper’s life, that, even good servants may become 
 all the better for its information, and indifferent ones will certain¬ 
 ly be improved by it in their respective callings, if proper instruc¬ 
 tion in every possible variety of domestic duty, combined with 
 sound moral precept and religious exhortation, can be effective of 
 that object. It forms an admirable gift by masters and mistresses 
 to their female servants.” Those who will go to a higher price 
 and wish to see more minute details may read Mrs. Park’s Domes¬ 
 tic Duties. But while we merely point to sources where every 
 minute department of a servant’s duty may be learned, we cannot 
 conclude our work without presenting them with some general 
 maxims and monitory cautions that may be easily remembered, will 
 always be useful, and which might repay masters or mistresses 
 the trouble were they to copy them out on a slip of paper, and 
 
SERVANTS. 3xt 
 
 deliver to each servant a copy on their being hired. These we 
 have entitled 
 
 Maxims and Monitory Cautions for Servants. 
 
 1. Zealously endeavour to maintain a good character by doing 
 your duty in that station of life to which it has pleased God to 
 call you. 
 
 2. Live under the influence of religious principles and with a 
 constant dependence on God’s providence. Give to God the first 
 and last of each day’s thoughts, for religion is the foundation of 
 peace and happiness both here and hereafter. 
 
 3. A good servant makes a good master; a servant is valued 
 who makes himself valuable. 
 
 4. Be obedient to all lawful orders—a good servant disputeth 
 not his master’s command, butdoeth it. 
 
 5. Betray no trust—divulge no secret—practise economy—love 
 fidelity. He that winks at an injury that he might prevent, shares 
 in it. 
 
 6. Be honest.—Honesty is the best policy, and no one will long 
 
 remain in decent service who is not so to a certain extent, but the 
 word conveys more meaning than is commonly attached to it; 
 many are dishonest who do not steal ; a good conscience is the 
 best law ; never suffer yourself, under the name of privileges and 
 perquisites, to be induced to take or to appropriate to your own 
 use any of your employer’s property under the plausible subter¬ 
 fuges made use of by some dishonest servants, such as— Where 
 is the great harm ?” “ It is only this, or only that.'’ “ My master 
 
 can afford it.” “ Where is the great harm, it is only a bit of soap 
 —only a few ends of candles—only an odd bit of lace—only a cutting 
 of silk—only a bit of dry bread—taking a little tea and sugar is not 
 stealing,” and the like wretched and deceitful excuses of faithless 
 and dishonest servants. 
 
 7. Be always employed; idleness is the parent of vice. The 
 proverb saith, “ An idle brain is the Devil’s workshop.” Constant 
 occupation prevents temptation. 
 
 8. Always tell the truth ; a fault is made worse by endeavour¬ 
 ing to conceal it. Do nothing that you wish to conceal. 
 
 9. Be orderly. Order is heaven’s first law, and it is the ser¬ 
 vant’s best friend; by its help half the fatigues of the day are 
 avoided and double the work may be done. 
 
 , ! 10. Rise early ; this forwards work and gains time all day after¬ 
 
 wards. It has been wittily said, that “ One who lies an hour 
 too long in bed in the morning runs after that hour all day and 
 s ! never overtakes it.” 
 
 11. Be diligent; steady going on is better than hurry and belter 
 skelter; the tortoise outstripped the hare ; and so will the diligent 
 servant excel her who loiters and bustles by turns; haste and 
 hurry are as different as sunshine and lightning ; the one matures, 
 
 H the other surprises but destroys. 
 
 12. Bear and forbear. In service there is always something 
 “ to put up with,” as servants commonly express it, and this not 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 lxii 
 
 so much from their employers as from their fellow domestics. 
 Here tempers most commonly clash, but recollect that it is only 
 by exerting a little timely forbearance that you can hope to live at 
 peace among yourselves ; when the captious and perverse find that 
 you go on your way without regarding them they will cease to 
 assail you. 
 
 13. Re patient with children ; they demand all your forbearance 
 and affection ; do not teach them oppression by using harshly the 
 little authority you may have over them. Teach them kind¬ 
 ness by exercising it towards all, even the animals beneath you. 
 The law of kindliness is the strongest law you can exercise over 
 rational beings or even over the dumb brute, and it will ensure 
 you a kind return. Many an unskilful servant has been long re¬ 
 tained merely because kind and civil, and civility is what you are 
 bound to give to all in authority over you; it is what they stipulate 
 for and are justly entitled to from you. You canuot be honest if 
 you are not civil, for you are paid to be so, 
 
 14. Be a miser of your time, take care of minutes, and the 
 hours and days will take care of themselves ; your time is your 
 employer’s, at least as much of it as is requisite to get through 
 the proper business of each day, and you have no more right to 
 waste your master’s time than any other part of his property. 
 
 15. ,l Waste not, want not.” How many servants in the kitchens 
 of their masters have wickedly and wantonly wasted that food 
 which, in an after period, they have wanted for themselves or 
 children : consider if you were master or mistress how you would 
 wish and expect your servants to behave, and you will soon see 
 the proper way you should act in, and be as careful of your 
 master’s property as of your own; to waste is as dishonest as to 
 steal, the loss to the owner is the same. 
 
 1G. Be cleanly; indeed, cleanliness is next door to godliness. 
 If you do not respect yourself enough to keep your person clean 
 and neat, what can you be expected to respect?—not appearances 
 certainly, and they who are careless as to that, are often so as to 
 more important matters. Neatness and modesty throw a charm 
 around you that will guard you from harm, and by saving much 
 expense that gaudy and careless dressing incurs, will enable you, 
 as the concluding maxim, to 
 
 17. Lay up some part of your wages against a day of sickness 
 or of old age, the Savings’ Bank will receive the smallest, and 
 it is amazing how quickly small sums augment; for while you 
 perform your duty faithfully to your employers, it is as much 
 your duty to yourself to remember that youth cannot last for 
 ever, and that health may be equally evanescent; old age, at 
 least, will inevitably come; and if you have not laid up some¬ 
 thing to make your last days comfortable, the close of your life 
 will most probably be days of many sorrows, of deep regret, and 
 self-reproach ; you will then say, that— 
 
 If youth did know what age would crave. 
 
 Many a penny youth w'ould save. 
 
THE KITCHEN. 
 
 lxiii 
 
 THE KITCHEN AND ITS UTENSILS. 
 
 A modern kitchen abounds with contrivances and appurtenances 
 to save trouble and ensure certain satisfactory results. Steam, 
 that most powerful of all the agents in nature, now largely con¬ 
 tributes to the operations of cookery, but unfortunately it is not 
 yet so generally employed as it might advantageously be. It is 
 seldom much called into action, except in very large establish¬ 
 ments. In Greenwich hospital one steam apparatus is so con¬ 
 structed as to cook for the whole establishment. 
 
 Cooking utensils, like every thing else, have come in for 
 their share of modern improvement, and we shall, in speaking of 
 cooking apparatuses generally, note what these improvements have 
 been. 
 
 Perhaps the most useful cooking apparatuses are those consisting 
 of boilers, ovens, hot closets, &c. In these the fire-place is situ¬ 
 ated about the middle of the erection, and from it emanate flues 
 in different directions which cai-ry the smoke and heated vapour 
 arising from the fuel, and bring it in contact with external sur¬ 
 faces of the several vessels and chambers, for the purpose of 
 heating them. 
 
 The.best are those in which the iron plate is not too thick, and 
 which is in several pieces joined together by rebate-edges by 
 which contrivance the expansions and contractions caused by 
 heat and cold are not so liable to crack the metal, as is fre¬ 
 quently the case when the hot plate is made in one piece. 
 
 Hot Plates w r ere formerly made very thick, and consequently, 
 from the expansion, when heating, were often broken across 
 even the first time of using : an improvement has been recently 
 made by having a series of plates cast very thin and fitting in 
 rebates within a large frame ; the advantages of this method are 
 great. The plates are readily heated with very little fuel, added 
 to which an oven may and is often applied at one end, which is 
 made ready for baking bread, &c. by the superfluous heat that 
 would otherwise be wasted. 
 
 A Broiling and Stewing Plate has been invented, which is one of 
 the most useful articles that can be put up in a kitchen, very 
 economical both in its cost and use; it is suitable for boiling, 
 stewing, frying, and for broiling ; the conduction is simple, the 
 fuel is supplied at the top, the draught is easily regulated, it can 
 be fixed in any situation, and forms an excellent laundry stove 
 when required for that purpose. 
 
 Bain Marie Pans, or water-bath for keeping gravies, soups &c. 
 at a boiling heat, are very useful. These are used by having 
 boiling water put in the lower part, and then placed upon a hot 
 plate to keep that water boiling; the gravies are in separate pans 
 or vessels above the water. 
 
 Ranges are now generally made with boilers at the back and side, 
 for supplying hot water, which boilers should always be made of 
 hammered iron ; they are then not liable to iqjury from neglect. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Ixiv 
 
 They can also he used as steam-boilers, for the purpose of boiling 
 fish, pudding, meat, and vegetables by steam. Steam is also 
 used for warming hot closets, kettles, washing, &c. &c. 
 
 Ovens are of various sorts ; the most usual are those attached 
 to the range, and generally heated from the same fire, either with 
 or without flues ; but the best and most efficient are detached and 
 fixed with a small furnace door, to heat by a separate fire, which 
 can at any time be done with a few cinders and coals, in about 
 fifteen or twenty minutes; having a regulating door underneath to 
 control the draught. 
 
 A Portable Oven, called the cottage oven, may be used over a 
 small fire ; these are very portable but are not much used. 
 
 Jacks for Roasting are of various kinds ; the common sort is 
 called the bottle jack from its shape, and roasts vertically; it will 
 answer for a single joint of any moderate weight, say as much as 
 28 lb. 
 
 Smoke-Jacks are constructed to carry two or more spits as far 
 as twelve, and will carry any weight or number of joints that 
 may be required, of course made to the particular situation for 
 which they are wanted ; but those most usually fixed carry three 
 spits, having also a vertical motion in addition to the spits, for 
 the purpose of roasting small birds, game, &c. &c. 
 
 The Wind-up Jacks formerly used are now superseded by the 
 smoke-jack, which has more power than the wind-up jack, and 
 much superior, as the use of weights is entirely done away with, and 
 smoke-jacks can now be made and are made that will answer in 
 any chimney, however small. These are called the self-power 
 smoke-jacks, occupying but little space, and requiring no particular 
 care or trouble. 
 
 Roasting Apparatus. There is now a very convenient and cheap 
 apparatus for roasting, combining a screen or reflector, with a 
 dripping-pan, hot-closet underneath for plates and dishes, having 
 a spring jack which roasts horizontally, with a spit in the same 
 manner as a smoke-jack would do, is very portable, requires no 
 fixing or any preparation, and can be used in any room having a 
 fire place. 
 
 Meat Screens. Their only improvement consists in their being 
 made deeper than formerly, and having the addition of a hot- 
 closet enclosed at the top, for keeping hot-joints ready for 
 serving, and this closet has a lock and key attached to it. 
 
 Spits are of various kinds, the usual sort having awheel at one 
 end to receive the chain of the jack, and pointed at the other, J 
 the sizes adapted to the joints and range. 
 
 Cradle Spits are constructed to receive the joint of meat without 
 being run through, as is necessary in using the common spit 
 and an improved sort has lately been constructed, by which any 
 joint placed within the cradle will revolve round in a circle, and 
 every part of the joint be equally exposed to the action of the 
 fire. The motion during the process is changed, so as to bring 
 r.he ends as well as the sides to the front of the fire. This is called! 
 the double revolving cradle-spit. 
 
THE KITCHEN. 
 
 Ixv 
 
 The Potatoe Pasty-pan is an economical article, affording the 
 advantages of flour pastry without the expense. When used, 
 season your meat and place it in the bottom of the pan, adding a 
 piece of butter and a little water; then put the perforated plate in 
 its place with its valve-pipe screwed on ; mashed potatoes with a 
 little milk are to be laid on this, filling up the whole space to the 
 top of the tube, and finishing the surface in any ornamental man¬ 
 ner you choose. The knob being now placed at the end of the 
 tube, it may be sent to the oven. If carefully baked, the 
 potatoes will be covered with a delicate brown crust, retaining all 
 the savoury steam rising from the meat. 
 
 Double saucepans are made of various kinds for glaze gravies, 
 milk, rice, or any other articles which are liable to injury from 
 burning, which these double saucepans entirely prevent. 
 
 The Digester is a very useful contrivance of modern date, and 
 by its aid a capital soup is very cheaply produced from bones, &c. 
 which in large families of charitable habits is most commonly dis¬ 
 tributed to the poor. It produces a much larger quantity of nour¬ 
 ishing food than can be obtained by any other method. 
 
 Care must be taken, in filling the Digester, to leave room enough 
 for the steam to pass off through the valve at the top of the cover. 
 This may be done by filling the Digester only three parts full of 
 water and bruised bones or meat, which it is to be noticed are all 
 put in together. It must then be placed near a slow fire, so as 
 only to simmer —more heat injures the quality ; and this it must do 
 for the space of eight or ten hours. After this has been done, the 
 soup is to be strained through a hair-sieve or cullender, in order 
 to separate any bits of bones. The soup is then to be put into the 
 digester again, and after whatever vegetables, spices, &c. are 
 thought necessary, are added, the whole is to be well boiled to¬ 
 gether for an hour or two, and it will then be fit for immediate 
 use. 
 
 In putting on the lid of the digester, take care that a mark thus, 
 X, on the lid, is opposite to a similar mark, X, on the digester. 
 
 Steam for Broth, Milk , <Sfc. In large schools, &c. steam is some¬ 
 times advantageously employed for boiling milk and soups. The 
 steam is generally supplied from the boiler of the kitchen range, 
 and is conveyed round a vessel in which the soup or milk is 
 placed. 
 
 Among many other improvements in the apparatus employed in 
 cooking, a very singular and-important one has been suggested in 
 the form of an apparatus for cooking by gas-flame. This is es¬ 
 teemed admirably applicable to cooking wild fowl and similar ex¬ 
 quisite morseaux of gourmanderie, but it is constructed for the 
 purposes of cooking generally. Speaking on this subject, Mr. 
 Louden conjectures that the time is not far distant when cooking 
 by gas will become common in all towns where gas-lighting is 
 employed. And when gas is publicly made from the decomposi¬ 
 tion of w r ater, which time is probably not far distant, it will afford 
 a cheap heat for that and many other purposes. 
 
 Though the first projectors of gas had a view to its application 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 1X V i 
 
 to various purposes, as the old name of “ gas light and heat Com¬ 
 pany” fully explains, no attempts were made to apply it to any 
 other use than that of distributing a strong and brilliant light, 
 and notwithstanding the acknowledged expensive and inefficient 
 means of distributing heat, our kitchens have yet to wait the slow 
 progress of improvement before all the advantages in our hands 
 are brought into use. Mr. John Barlow, a civil engineer of the 
 United States, has communicated to this country an account of the 
 progress that is making across the Atlantic in the use of gas, 
 both for the diffusion of heat and for domestic cookery. He says 
 the Americans “ already roast, bake, and boil by gas.” The heat 
 is always ready when wanted and is extinguished when it is no 
 longer required, no dust, no preparation, nor any cleaning up 
 afterwards is requisite ; the cook can leave a joint of meat either 
 roasting or boiling, and never look at it again till the clock informs 
 her it is time to take it up.” He speaks of a family who regularly 
 put their meat down and all go to church on a Sunday, locking the 
 house up and leaving a capital dinner to the care of the gas.— 
 The engineers of our own country are not far behind : Mr. Mallet 
 of Dublin, and Mr. Hicks of London, the inventors of the appara¬ 
 tus already mentioned, have both furnished many valuable sugges¬ 
 tions, which have already been carried into execution with com¬ 
 plete success as far as they go, which yet, however, we fear, extend 
 no farther than boiling or broiling. 
 
 The New Monthly Magazine for June 1835 gives publicity to a 
 plan of Mr. Rickets for cooking and heating by gas, of a very 
 simple and promising description. This gas stove is a construction 
 similar to a common German stove ; it has a large radiating surface, 
 so as extensively to diffuse the heat which is generated within. 
 The gas is consumed in an inferior chamber, into which it is intro¬ 
 duced by a circular pipe from the main, with a series of jets, so 
 as to produce an almost continuous sheet of flame. The applica¬ 
 tion of heat from burning gas to culinary purposes is already call¬ 
 ing forth great attention to the subject. Mr. Rickets’ Gas 
 Culinary Stove is so formed as to roast, bake, boil, stew, &c , 
 and in all cases the uniformity of the heat is so easily regulated as 
 to produce results undeniably superior to all other culinary ar¬ 
 rangements, both in point of economy of time, cleanliness, and 
 trouble, while the results are at once certain and satisfactory. 
 
 Utensils. A professed cook requires in her kitchen all the fol¬ 
 lowing implements and tools for producing that desirable result 
 of her labours, a good dinner. 
 
 A range, smoke-jack, dripping-pan, and basting ladle, grid¬ 
 irons, steak-tongues, charcoal stoves, hot plate, oven, boiler for 
 steam, steam-kettles, hot closet, boiler for hot water heated by 
 steam, stock-pots, stew-pans, preserving pans, pickling pans, 
 braising pans, frying-pans of different sizes, one large for fish, 
 cutlet and omelet pans, pan and spoons for poached eggs, turtle 
 pans, turbot keetles, oven peels, 1 cradle, spit, others of meat, 
 birds, &c., various sized iron skewers, set of kitchen knives, 
 beef fork, choppers, meat and cutlet chopper, screen, dish 
 
DIRECTIONS FOR MARKETING. 
 
 lxvii 
 
 covers, graters, spice-box, seasoning box, flour, pepper and 
 cayenne dredgers, ragout spoons, ladles, jelly and pudding moulds, 
 pepper and spice mills, pestle and mortars of marble, larding 
 needles, tin drains for fried fish, cullenders, patty-pans, cutters 
 for pastry, vegetables, string boxes, sugar canisters, cookholds, 
 balance meat hooks, brass and copper spoon for pickling and 
 preserving, tin Yorkshire-pudding dishes of different sizes, baking 
 plates, cake tins, fish-slices, fish-drains to fit the steamers-meat- 
 stands, salamander and pig irons, steel egg-poachers and egg- 
 boilers, fritter irons, lamps, and to these must be superadded an 
 ink-stand for memorandums. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR MARKETING. 
 
 BUTCHERS’ MEAT. 
 
 BEEF. 
 
 Hind quarter. 
 
 1 Sirloin. 
 
 2 Rump. 
 
 3 Edge or Aitch bone. 
 
 4 Buttock. 
 
 5 Mouse buttock. 
 
 6 Veiny piece. 
 
 7 Thick flank. 
 
 8 Thin flank. 
 
 9 Leg. 
 
 Kit/ 
 
 Fore quarter. 
 
 11 Middle ribs : four ribs. 
 
 12 Chuck ; three ribs. 
 
 13 Shanter, or leg of mutton piece. 
 
 14 Brisket. 
 
 15 Clod. 
 
 16 Neck, or stickinq piece. 
 
 17 Shin. 
 
 18 Cheek. 
 
 10 Fore ribs ; free ribs. 
 
 j The pieces in a Bullock are the following:—The head (18) con¬ 
 sists of the tongue, palate, cheeks, &c. The entrails are the 
 
INTRO DUCTION. 
 
 Ixviii 
 
 sweetbread, kidneys, skirts, tripe, and the heart. The fore quarter 
 contains the haunch (15), which includes the clod, marrow-bone, 
 shin (17, 9), and the sticking piece, that is, the neck end (16) ; the 
 leg of mutton piece (13), which has a part of the blade-bone, the 
 chuck (12), the brisket (14), the fore-ribs (11), and middle rib 
 (10), called also the chuck-rib. The hind-quarter contains the sir¬ 
 loin (land 2), the thin and thick flank (8), the veiny piece (6), 
 edge-bone, or chuck-bone (6), the buttock (4), and leg (5). A 
 baron consists of the two sirloins. 
 
 To choose Beef. Ox-beef has an open grain, and the fat, if young, 
 will be of an oily smoothness, except the brisket, neck pieces, and 
 a few others, which are fibrous. The lean should be of a carnation 
 red ; the fat rather inclining to white than yellow ; the suet of a 
 fine white. 
 
 Cow-beef has a closer grain, the fat is whiter, the bones less, 
 and the lean of a paler colour than ox-beef. If young and tender, 
 a dent made with the finger by pressing it will in a little time rise 
 again. The quality of cow-beef may also be generally determined 
 by the appearance of the udder. If this be flabby, large, and 
 coarse, the cow is old and the beef most probably indifferent; if 
 the udder be small and has rather the appearance of fat without 
 flabbiness, the cow is young and the beef most probably good. 
 
 Bull-beef is of a more dusky red, has a closer grain, and is firmer 
 than of either the preceding ; it also receives the indentation of the 
 finger with more difficulty, and rises afterwards sooner. The fat is 
 gross and fibrous, and has a rank smell. The toughness of bull- 
 beef is proverbial. 
 
 MUTTON. 
 
 1 Leg. 
 
 2 Loin, best end. 
 
 3 Loin, chump end. 
 
 4 Neck, best end. 
 
 5 Neck, scrag end. 
 
 6 Shoulder. 
 
 7 Breast. 
 
 A saddle is two chump 
 loins. 
 
 A chine is two loins. 
 
 A Sheep consists of the head and pluck, which includes the 
 liver, lights, heart, sweetbread, and melt. The fore-quarter is the 
 neck, breast, and shoulder. The liind-quarter is the leg and loin. 
 The two loins together form the chine or saddle. 
 
 A Lamb contains the head and pluck, that is the liver, lights, 
 heart, nut, and melt. The fry includes the sweetbread, lamb- 
 stones, skirts, with some of the liver and lights. The fore-quarter 
 is the shoulder, neck, and breast. The hind-quarter is the leg and 
 
 Mutton and lamb. If the flesh, upon being pinched between the 
 fingers, teels tender, and soon returns to its former place, it is 
 
MARKETING. 
 
 lxix 
 
 young; but if the impression of the fingers long remains, it is old. 
 The fat also easily separates from the lean when it is young ; but 
 if old it adheres more firmly and is clammy and fibrous. Ram 
 mutton is fat and spongy, the grain close, the lean rough and of a 
 deep red ; when indented by the finger it does not readily rise 
 again. If the sheep had the rot, the flesh will be palish, the fat a 
 faint yellow ; the flesh will be also loose at the bone, and if 
 squeezed hard, some drops of water resembling dew will appear on 
 the surface. 
 
 In choosing a fore-quarter either of mutton or lamb, if the vein 
 in the neck looks ruddy, or of an azure colour, it is fresh ; but if 
 yellowish it is near tainting; and if green it is already tainted. 
 Examine the hind-quarter under the kidney; feel also whether 
 the knuckle be stiff'or limber: a faint or ill smell in the former, 
 or an unusual limberness in the latter, demonstrates that it is stale. 
 In choosing a lamb’s head, note particularly the eyes : if they be 
 sunk or wrinkled, it is stale; if plump and lively, it is fresh. 
 Wether-mutton is to be preferred to ewe-mutton, which is distin¬ 
 guished chiefly by the udder; but the flesh of ewe-mutton is paler 
 and the grain closer. 
 
 House-lamb is in high season at Christmas, but lasts all the 
 year. Grass-lamb comes in about April or May, and is good till 
 the middle of August. 
 
 VEAL. 
 
 1 Loin, best end. " 
 
 2 Loin, chump end. 
 
 3 Fillet. 
 
 4 Hind knuckle. 
 
 5 Fore knuckle. 
 
 6 Neck, best end. 
 
 7 Neck, scrag end. 
 
 8 Blade-bone. 
 
 9 Breast, best end. 
 
 10 Brisket end. 
 
 A Calf consists of the following piecesThe head and in¬ 
 wards are the pluck; the inwards consist of the heart, liver, lights, 
 nut, skirts, the throat-sweetbread, and the windpipe-sweetbread. 
 The fore-quarter is the shoulder (8), neck (6, 7), and breast (10). 
 The hind-quarter is the leg, which contains the knuckle (4) and 
 fillet (3), and the loin (1,2). 
 
 Veal. If the vein in the shoulder be of a bright red or look 
 blue, it is newly killed ; but if greenish, yellowish, or blackish, or 
 more clammy, soft, or limber than usual, it is stale ; if there be 
 ;any green spots about it, it is either tainting or already tainted. 
 iThe loin taints first under the kidney, and the flesh when stale will 
 be soft and flabby. The neck and breast are first tainted at the 
 
INTRO DUCT10 N. 
 
 Ixx 
 
 upper end, and when so have a dusky, yellowish, or greenish 
 appearance, and the sweetbread on the breast will be clammy. 
 The leg, if newly killed, will be stiff in the joint, but if stale 
 limber, and the flesh clammy with green or yellowish spots. The 
 flesh of a bull-calf is firmer than that of a cow-calf, and the fat 
 more curdled. Veal from a cow-calf is generally to be preferred 
 to that from a bull-calf. Cow-calf veal is always known by the 
 fine smooth roll of fat containing the young udder attached to the 
 legs; whilst that on the legs of the bull-calf is not smooth but 
 knobby, and by no means in such quantity. That veal is generally 
 preferred which is obtained from calves fed by hand and in the 
 house ; what is called running veal is neither so white nor so fat, 
 but perhaps, notwithstanding, more wholesome. In choosing a 
 calf’s head, observe the directions given above for that of the 
 lamb. Veal is in season the whole year, but is found in greatest 
 perfection in the spring months. 
 
 PORK. 
 
 1 The sparerib. 
 
 2 The hand. 
 
 3 The belly. 
 
 4 The fore-loin. 
 
 5 The hind-loin. 
 
 6 The leg. . 
 
 Pork. If the lean, on being pinched between the fingers, break, 
 and feels soft and oily, or if the skin can be easily ripped with the 
 nails, or if the fat be soft and oily, it is young ; but if the lean be 
 rough, the fat very spongy, and the skin stubborn, it is old. If it 
 be a boar, or a hog gelt at full growth, the flesh will feel harder 
 and rougher than usual, the skin thicker, the fat hard and fibrous, 
 the lean of a dusky red and of a rank smell. The freshness of 
 pork may be determined by inserting the finger at the bone which 
 comes out in the middle of the fleshy part of the legs and hands, 
 as it first taints in those places, when the smell will be the criterion ; 
 the skin is also clammy and sweaty when stale, but smooth and 
 cool when fresh. P">rk is never so good in the hot summer 
 months as at other times. Measly pork must always be avoided. 
 
 It may not be inappropriate here to observe, that hog’s lard 
 should be chosen for its firmness and whiteness. When it is soft 
 and discoloured it is not so good; being most probably obtained 
 from pigs fed with the grains from distilleries. 
 
 Pork divides at the head and inwards, which last are the haslet, 
 consisting of the heart, liver, lights, &c. The chitterlins and guts. 
 The fore-quarter which is the fore-loin and spring ; and if the hog 
 be large a spare-rib may also be cut off. The hind-quarter is the 
 leg and loin. 
 
MARKETING. 
 
 lxxi 
 
 A Bacon Hog is cut up differently, in order that bacon and 
 hams may be obtained from it. Spare-ribs, chines, griskins, and 
 bladebones are the chief joints. The feet and ears form also, 
 when pickled, an agreeable dish. 
 
 Brawn is best known by the thickness of the rind, and its hard¬ 
 ness or softness ; if thick and hard it is old ; if soft, and the rind 
 moderately thick, it is young. If the rind and fat be remarkably 
 tender, it is not boar, but barrow or sow-brawn. 
 
 Dried Hams and Bacon. Run a sharp-pointed knife into the 
 middle of the ham, on the inside under the bone, and draw it out 
 quickly ; if its smell be good and the knife little daubed, the ham 
 is good ; but if the knife be much daubed, has a rank smell, and 
 ill odour issues from the hole, it is tainted. Or a piece may be 
 cut off at one end ; if it be white and smells well, it is good ; 
 but if yellowish, of a rusty colour, or has an ill smell, it is either 
 tainted, or rancid, or soon will be so. A gammon of bacon may 
 be tried in the same manner. The goodness of bacon may 
 also be known by the thinness of the rind, the rvhiteness and 
 firmness of the fat, and the redness of the streaks : when the 
 rind is thick, the fat soft and yellow, and streaks of a russet 
 colour, the bacon is not good. 
 
 VENISON. 
 
 Venison. Let the fleshy parts of the different joints be examined 
 in the same manner as directed for ham, and according to the 
 sweet or rank smell is it new or stale. Observe also the colour 
 of the meat, for if it be stale or tainted it will be of a flesh colour, 
 intermixed with yellowish or greenish specks. If the flesh be 
 tough and hard, the fat contracted, the hoofs large and broad, 
 and the heel bony and much worn, it is old. 
 
ixxii 
 
 ] introduction. 
 
 POULTRY. 
 
 A Capon, if young, will have the spurs short and blunt, and 
 the legs smooth. A true capon has a fat vein on the side of the 
 breast, a thick belly and rump, and its comb will be short and 
 pale. If it be new, it will have a close, hard vent; but if stale, 
 an open loose vent. 
 
 Turkey, Turkey-Poults, and Bustards. If the spurs of a tur¬ 
 key-cock be short and his legs black and smooth, he is young, 
 but if his spurs be long, and his legs pale and rough, he is old. 
 If he has been long killed, the eyes will be sunk in the head and 
 the fat will feel very dry ; but if fresh, the feet will be lirnper and 
 the eyes lively. The same signs will apply to the hen. If she 
 be with egg, the vent will be open ; if not, it will be close and 
 hard. By these signs, the newness or staleness of turkey-poults may 
 be discovered; in their age you cannot be deceived. The above 
 rules apply also to that curious fowl the Bustard. 
 
 A Cock, Hen, $c. If a cock be young, his spurs will be short 
 and dubbed ; but if sharp and standing out, he is old. The 
 spurs are sometimes pared or scraped for the purpose of deception. 
 If the vent be hard and close, it is a sign of his being newly kil¬ 
 led ; but if he be stale, the vent will be open. A hen may be 
 known by the same signs; and if old, her legs and comb will be 
 rough ; if smooth, she is young. Chickens, if pulled dry, will be 
 stiff' when new ; when stale, they are limber and the vents green. 
 If scalded or pulled wet, rub the breast with your thumb or 
 finger, and if they be rough and stiff, they are new ; if smooth and 
 slippery, stale. 
 
 A Goose, Wild-Goose, and Bran-Goose. If the bill and foot 
 be red and the body full of hairs, it is old ; if the bill be yel¬ 
 lowish, and the body has but few hairs, it is young. If new', the 
 feet will be limber; but if stale, dry. These rules apply equally 
 to the goose, the wild-goose, and the bran-goose. Green-geese 
 are in season from May or June till it is three months old : other 
 geese should be picked dry, but green-geese should be scalded. 
 
 Wild and Tame Ducks are hard and thick on the belly when 
 fat, but thin and lank when poor; when new, they are limber¬ 
 footed, but dry-footed when stale. A wild-duck may be distin¬ 
 guished from a tame one by its foot being smaller and reddish. 
 Ducks should be picked dry, but ducklings should be scalded. 
 
 The Shuffler, Godwit, Gull, Ruff, Dotterel, Wheatear, fyc. when 
 new, are limber-footed; when stale, the feet are stiff; when fat, 
 the rump is fat; when lean, it is close and hard; when young, 
 the legs are smooth, when old, rough. 
 
 Pheasants. The spurs of a pheasant-cock, when young, are 
 short and dubbed, when old, long and sharp ; when new, the 
 vent is firm, w hen stale it is open and flabby. The pheasant-hen, 
 when young, has smooth legs, and the flesh is of a fine and curi¬ 
 ous grain; when old, her legs are rough and her flesh hairy when 
 nulled. If with egg, her vent will be open; if not with egg, 
 close. The newness or staleness of the pheasant is discovered by 
 
MARKETING. Ixxiii 
 
 the same signs as those given above for the cock. In season in 
 October and during the winter months. 
 
 Heath and Pheasant Poults, when new, are limber and their 
 vents white and stiff; when stale, they are dry-footed, the vent 
 green, and if touched hard, it will peel. 
 
 Heath Cock and Hen, and Grouse. The newness or staleness of 
 these is known by the same signs as the preceding. When 
 young, their legs and bills are smooth; when old, both are rough. 
 In season from August till March. 
 
 Woodcocks and Stupes are limber-footed when new, dry-footed 
 when stale ; if fat, thick and hard. If their noses be foul with 
 mucus, and the throats moorish and muddy, they are bad. A snipe, 
 if fat, has a fat vein in the side under the wing, and it also feels 
 thick in the vent. Found in England only in the winter, and then 
 always in season, but best a few weeks after their first appearance. 
 
 Partridges when young have black bills and yellowish legs; 
 when old, white bills and bluish legs; when new, a fast vent; 
 when stale, a green and open one, which peels with the touch. 
 If they have lately fed on green wheat and their crops be full, 
 by smelling to their mouths you will discover whether their crops 
 be tainted or not. In season in Autumn. 
 
 Pigeons, Doves, Plover, Sfc. Pigeons are red-legged when old ; 
 if new or fat, they are limber-footed, and feel full in the vent; 
 when stale, the vent is green and flabby. The turtle-dove is dis¬ 
 tinguished by a bluish ring round its neck, the other parts being 
 almost white. The stock-dove exceeds both the wood-pigeon 
 and the ring-dove in bigness. 
 
 These rules for the choice of pigeons apply also to the plover, 
 fieldfare i teal, widgeon, thrush, lark, blackbird, fyc. 
 
 Hare and Leveret. When the claws are blunt and rugged, and 
 the cleft in the lip spreads much, the hare is old ; but if these 
 signs be absent, she is young; the ears, if she be young, will 
 tear like a sheet of brown paper ; if old, they are dry and tough. 
 If new and fresh killed, the flesh will be white and stiff; if stale, 
 limber. The newness or staleness of a leveret may be known by 
 the same signs as the hare ; but a real leveret may be distinguished 
 by having a knob or small bone near the foot on its fore-leg : this 
 knob is not found in the hare. Hares are in season from Septem¬ 
 ber till March ; leverets from March till September. 
 
 A Rabbit, if old, has the claws very long and rough, and grey 
 hairs are intermixed with the wool; if young, the claws and 
 wool are smooth; if stale it will be limber, and the flesh will 
 look bluish, with a kind of slime upon it; but if fresh, it will be 
 stiff, and the flesh white and dry. Tame rabbits are in season all 
 the year, wild ones from June till February; tame rabbits are 
 sometimes rank and by no means so good as wild ones, but if pro¬ 
 perly fed and kept clean they are much better. 
 
 FISH. 
 
 To ascertain whether fish be fresh or stale, let the gills be 
 examined ; if these be a lively red, they are fresh ; if brown and 
 
 e 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Ixxiv 
 
 of an unpleasant smell, they are stale. Fish taken in running 
 water or the sea are always better than those taken in ponds. 
 
 Salmon, Trout, Carp, Tench, Pike, Grayling, Barbel, Chub, Whi¬ 
 ting, Rulf, Eel, Shad, fyc. The newness or staleness of these 
 is known chiefly by the colour of the gills, which, when fresh, 
 are red, when stale, brown ; also by their being hard or easy to be 
 opened, the standing out or sinking of the eyes, the fins being 
 stiff or limber, and by the smell of the gills. Eels taken in running 
 water are better than those taken in ponds ; those called the silver 
 eels are most esteemed: the best of these are obtained from salt-water 
 rivers. The Thames salmon bears the best price ; the Severn, next. 
 The spring and summer are the season for this fish. Trout are 
 in high season in June; tench, in July, August, and September. 
 
 Turbot, if plump and thick and the belly of a cream colour, is 
 good; but if thin and of a bluish white on the belly, indifferent. 
 In season the greater part of the summer. 
 
 Soles, if thick and stiff and of a cream colour on the belly, are 
 good; if thin, limber, and the belly of a bluish white, the con¬ 
 trary. In season during the summer, but in the market nearly 
 the whole year. 
 
 Cod and Codling should be chosen thick towards the head; and 
 the flesh when cut should be very white. In season from Decem¬ 
 ber till April or later. 
 
 Herrings and Mackarel, when new, have the gills of a lively 
 shining red, the eyes sharp and full, and the body stiff; but if 
 the gills be dusky and faded, the eyes dull and sunk, and the 
 tail limber, they are stale. The herring should be full of roe or 
 melt, or it is not esteemed. In season in the summer and autumn 
 months. 
 
 Pickled Salmon, when new and good, has the scales stiff and 
 shining, the flesh is oily to the touch and parts in flakes without 
 crumbling; when bad, the contrary. 
 
 Pickled and Red Herrings. If, on opening a pickled herring, 
 the bone be white or of a bright red, and the flesh white, oily, and 
 flakey, it is good. If a red herring smell well, be of a good gloss, 
 and parts well from the bone, it is good. 
 
 Dried Ling and Cod. That which is thickest in the pole, and 
 the flesh of the brightest yellow, is the best. 
 
 Sturgeon has the veins and gristle, when good, of a blue colour, 
 the flesh white, the skin limber, the fat underneath of a pleasant 
 scent, and it may be cut without crumbling. 
 
 The roe of the sturgeon is usually taken out, spread upon a table, 
 beaten flat and sprinkled with salt; it is then dried in the air and 
 sun, and afterwards in ovens. It should be of a reddish brown 
 colour and very dry : this is called caviare, and is eaten with salt 
 and vinegar. 
 
 Flounders, when fresh, are stiff, their eyes bright and full, and 
 their bodies thick. They are in season from January to March 
 and from July to September. 
 
 Smelts, when good, have a refreshing smell like cucumbers 
 newly cut, are of a silvery hue and very firm. 
 
MARKETING. 
 
 Ixxv 
 
 Mullets of the sea are preferable to the river mullets and the 
 red to the grey. They should, if good, be very firm. In season in 
 August, and are excellent fish. 
 
 A Lobster, if new, has a pleasant smell at that part of the tail 
 which unites with the body, and the tail when opened falls smart, 
 like a spring; but when stale, it has a rank smell and the tail is 
 limber. If spent, a white scurf will issue from the moutli and the 
 roots of the small legs. If it be full, the tail about the middle 
 will be full of hard reddish-skinned meat, which may be dis¬ 
 covered by thrusting a knife between the joints on the bend of the 
 tail. The heaviest are best if there be no water in them. The 
 cock is generally smaller than the hen, of a deeper red when 
 boiled, has no spawn under its tail, and the uppermost fins within 
 its tail are stiff and hard. These directions apply to boiled lob¬ 
 sters, but in order to have them in perfection it is best to buy 
 them alive and boil them at home. In season throughout the 
 summer months. Lobsters having incrustations upon them are old ; 
 they should be avoided. 
 
 Crabs. When stale, the shells will be of a dusky red colour, 
 the joints of the claws limber and loose, and may be turned any 
 ; way with the finger; an ill smell issues also from the throat; these 
 
 ( indications being absent, they are good. 
 
 Prawns and Shrimps, if hard and stiff, of a pleasant smell, and 
 their tails turn strongly inward, are new; but if limber, their 
 colour faded, of an unpleasant smell and feel slimy, they are stale. 
 The best criterion of the freshness of these fish is the ease with 
 which they are detached from the shells: if they can be pulled 
 off very readily, they are fresh ; but if with difficulty, or the fish 
 itself break in pulling it is certainly stale. 
 
 Oysters from Colchester, Pyfleet, and Milford are esteemed the 
 best; the native Milton are also very good. They are known to 
 be alive and vigorous when they close fast upon the knife, and let 
 go as soon as they are wounded in the body. They are in season 
 from August to April. 
 
 To feed Oysters. Wash them first in water with a birch-broom 
 till quite clean, then lay them bottom downwards in a pan, pouring 
 over them water having salt dissolved in it in the proportion of 
 about one pound to two gallons. The water should be changed 
 every two or three days. Some sprinkle the oysters with flour or 
 oatmeal, but this is not now esteemed necessary; they must 
 however be wholly covered with the water. Barrelled oysters 
 packed at the beds are said to be better without being put in 
 water: these should not be disturbed till wanted. Barrelled 
 oysters are not in general the best, being mostly young ones. 
 
 BUTTER. 
 
 When you buy butter, taste and smell it yourself. The quality 
 of salt butter may be known by attention to the smell as well as 
 the taste. If it be in a cask, trust not to the top alone, but unhoop 
 it to the middle, thrusting a knife between the stave, by which 
 i. examination you cannot be deceived. The smell and taste of 
 
 e 2 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Ixxvi 
 
 good butter can scarcely be described ; they are, however, too well 
 known to need description. 
 
 EGGS. 
 
 The large end of an egg is always warm to the tongue, because 
 it contains air, but it is no criterion of the goodness of the egg. 
 Hold the egg up against the sun or a candle ; if the white appears 
 clear and fair and the yolk round, it is good ; but if muddy or 
 cloudy, and the yolk broken, it is bad. Or put it into a pan of 
 cold water, the fresher it is the sooner it will sink to the bottom ; 
 if it be rotten or addled, it will swim on the surface of the water. 
 The best way to keep eggs is in bran or meal, turning them 
 frequently some, however, place the small end downwards in 
 fine woodr-ash s : to keep them for a long'period they may I c buried 
 in salt, which it is said will preserve them in almost any cl'mate. 
 
 CHEESE. 
 
 If old cheese be roush-coated, rugged or dry at top, be¬ 
 ware of little worms called hoppers, and also of mites, a still 
 smaller animal. If it be full of holes, moist or spongy, hoppers 
 may be expected to be found in it. If any crack or any soft and 
 perished place appear on the outside, examine into its depth, for 
 the greater part may be hidden within. Cheese is to be chosen by 
 its moist smooth coat. A fat cheese, if of much size, has generally 
 rounded edges, and the sides are swelled out more or. less; 
 although excessive swelling out of the sides is not a good sign ; 
 neither is an elevation of the top desirable. A poor cheese has 
 usually keen edges, and the sides are straight. Fat cheese may 
 also be known by rubbing a small portion of it between the finger 
 and thumb : if it soon becomes smooth and soft, melting as it 
 were on the finger by the animal heat, it is fat; but if it remains 
 tough and crumbly, it is not rich nor of prime quality. No cheese 
 should be chosen which has the surface much swelled, such 
 swelling being an indication of its containing holes and being 
 badly made, and that it has most probably also an unpleasant 
 smell and taste. Besides these indications, no cheese should be 
 purchased without being both tasted and smelled. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR TRUSSING. 
 
 Although the poulterers in London truss all the different ani¬ 
 mals which they send home, yet, as it often happens, even here, 
 that untrussed game and poultry are sent at once to private fami¬ 
 lies from the country, it is absolutely necessary that the art of 
 trussing should be known by every cook and female domestic 
 servant, as well as, indeed, to the mistress of a family ; no apology 
 can be therefore needed for the introduction of this article, 
 which in modern cookery books is too often omitted : to persons 
 in the country these directions are indispensable. 
 
 In trussing, these general rules must be carefully attended to. 
 " ake, care that all the stubs be perfectly removed; and when 
 
TRUSSING. 
 
 XXV11 
 
 poultry or game is drawn, particular care must be taken not to 
 break the gall-bladder: for, if any of the gall be spilt about the 
 bird, it will impart to it a bitter taste, which neither washing nor 
 wiping can wholly remove. 
 
 Turkey. When the turkey is properly picked, break the leg-bone 
 close to the foot, and draw out the strings from the thigh. Cut 
 off the neck close to the back, leaving the crop-skin sufficiently 
 long'to turn over to the back. Next, take out the crop, and loosen 
 the liver and gut at the throat end with the middle finger; then 
 cut off the vent and take out the gut. Pull out the gizzard with 
 a crookecj sharp-pointed iron, and the liver will follow, taking 
 care not to break the gall-bladder. Wipe out the inside perfectly 
 clean with a wet cloth. Cut the breast-bone through on each side 
 close to the back, and draw the legs close to the crop. Put a 
 cloth on the breast, and beat the high bone down with a rolling 
 pin till it lies flat. 
 
 Turkey for boiling. 
 
 If the turkey is to be trussed for boiling, cut the legs off; then 
 put your middle finger into the inside, raise the skin of the legs, 
 and put them under the apron of the turkey. Put a skewer in the 
 joint of the wing and the middle joint of the leg, and run it through 
 the body and the other leg and wing. The liver and gizzard must 
 be put in the pinions, care being taken to open previously the giz¬ 
 zard and take out the filth; the gall-bladder must also be removed 
 from the. liver; then turn the small end of the pinion on the back, 
 and tie a packthread over the ends of the legs to keep them in 
 their places. 
 
 Turkey for roasting. 
 
 If the turkey is to be roasted, leave the legs on, put a skewer 
 in the joint of the wing, tuck the legs close up, and put the 
 skewer through the middle of the leg and body. On the other side 
 put another skewer in at the small part of the leg, close on the 
 outside of the sidesman, and put the skewer through, and the 
 same on the other side. Put the liver and gizzard between the 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Ixxviii 
 
 pinions, and turn the points of the pinions on the back. Put 
 close above the pinions another skewer through the body of the 
 turkey. 
 
 Turkey Poults must be trussed thus : separate the neck from the 
 head and body, but do not remove the neck-skin. They must be 
 drawn in the same manner as a turkey. Put a skewer through 
 the joint of the pinion, tuck the legs close, run the skewer 
 through the middle of the leg, through the body, and so on the 
 other side. Cut off the under part of the bill, twist the skin round 
 the neck, and put the head on the point of the skewer, with the 
 bill end forward. Another skewer must be put in the sidesman, 
 and the legs be placed between the sidesman and apron on each 
 side : pass the skewer through all, and cut off the toe-nails. 
 Some lard them on the breast. The liver and gizzard may or may 
 not be used, as you choose. 
 
 Goose. Having picked and stubbed it clean, cut the feet off at 
 the joint and the pinion off at the first joint. Then cut off the 
 neck close to the back, leaving the skin of the neck long enough 
 to turn over the back. Pull out the throat and tie a knot at the 
 end. Loosen the liver and other matters at the breast with your 
 middle finger, and cut it open between the vent and rump. Next 
 draw out all the entrails excepting the soal. Wipe out the body 
 clean with a wet’cloth, and beat the breast-bone flat with a rolling 
 pin. Put a skewer into the wing, and draw the legs close up; 
 
 Goose. 
 
 put the skewer through the middle of the leg and through the 
 body ; do the same on the other side. Put another skewer in the 
 small of the leg, tuck it close down to the sidesman, and run it 
 through ; do the same on the other side. Cut off the end of the 
 vent, and make a hole large enough to admit the rump, as it 
 holds the seasoning much better by such means. 
 
 Ducks. 
 
 Breast, 
 
 Back, 
 
TRUSSING. lxxix 
 
 Ducks are trussed in the same manner as geese, except that the 
 feet are left on the ducks and are turned close to the legs. 
 
 Fvwls must first be picked very clean, and the neck cut off close 
 to the back. Put your finger into the inside and raise the skin of 
 the legs, cut a hole in the top of the skin and put the legs un 
 der. Put a skewer in the first joint of the pinion, bring the leg 
 close to it, put the skewer through the middle of the leg and 
 through the body ; do the same on the other side. Having opened 
 the gizzard, take out the filth, and remove the gall-bladder from 
 the liver ; put the gizzard and liver in the pinions, and turn the 
 points of the pinions on the back, tying a string over the tops of 
 the legs to keep them in their proper place. 
 
 Fowl for roasting. 
 
 If the fowl is to be roasted, put a skewer in the first joint of the 
 pinion, and bring the middle of the leg close to it. Put the 
 skewer through the middle of the leg and through the body ; do the 
 same on the other side. Put another skewer in the small of the 
 leg and through the sidesman; do the same on the other side. Put 
 another skewer through the skin of the feet, the nails of which 
 must be cut off. 
 
 Chickens must be picked and drawn in the same manner as fowls. 
 But as their skins are so tender, if they be plunged in scalding- 
 water, and taken out as soon as the feathers will readily slip off, 
 the trouble of picking will be much abridged. 
 
 If to be boiled, cut off the nails, give the sinews a nick on each- 
 side of the joint, put the feet in at the vent, and then put in the 
 rump. Draw the skin tightly over the legs, put a skewer in the 
 first joint of the pinion, and bring the middle of the leg close. Put 
 the skewer through the middle of the legs and through the body : 
 do the same on the other side. Clean the gizzard, and separate 
 the gall-bladder from the liver ; put the liver and gizzard into the 
 pinions, and turn their points on the back. 
 
 If to be roasted, cut off the feet, put a skewer in the first joint 
 of the pinions, and bring the middle of the leg close. Run the 
 skewer through the middle of the leg and through the body : do 
 the same on the other side. Put another skewer into the sidesman 
 and run the skewer through. Having cleaned the liver and giz¬ 
 zard, put them iu the pinions, the points of which must be turned 
 on the back, and pull the breast-skin over the neck. 
 
 Wild-fowl. Having picked them clean, cut off the neck close 
 to the back, and with the middle finger loosen the liver and guts 
 next the breast. Cutoff the pinions at the first joint, then cut a 
 slit between the vent and rump, and draw them clean. Clean 
 
lx XX 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 them properly with the long feathers on the wing; cut off the 
 nails, and turn the feet close to the legs. Put a skewer into the 
 pinions, pull the legs close to the breast, and run the skewer 
 through the legs, body, and other pinion. Cut off the vent and 
 then put the rump through it. These directions will answer for 
 every kind of wild fowl. 
 
 Pigeons must first be picked, and then let the neck be cut off 
 close to the back. Take out the crop, cut off the vent, aud draw 
 out the guts and gizzard, but leave in the liver" for a pigeon has 
 no gall-bladder. 
 
 If the pigeon is to be roasted, cut off the toes, cut a slit in one of 
 the legs, and put the other through it. Draw the leg'tight to the 
 pinion, put a skewer through the pinions, and turn the point on 
 the back. 
 
 If for a pie, the feet of the pigeon must be cut off at the joint, 
 then turn the legs and stick them in the sides close to the pinions. 
 If they are to be stewed or boiled, they must be trussed in the same 
 manner. 
 
 Woodcocks and Snipes are very tender to pick, particularly if not 
 quite fresh ; they must be, therefore, handled with great care and 
 as little as possible. When they are picked clean, cutoff the pi¬ 
 nions at the first joint, and with the handle of the knife beat the 
 breast-bone. Turn the legs close to the thighs, and tie them toge¬ 
 ther at the joints. Put the thighs close to the pinions, put a 
 skewer into the pinion and run it through the thighs, body, and 
 the other pinion. Skin the head, turn it, take out the eyes, and 
 put the head on the point of the skewer with the bill close to the 
 breast. Plovers are trussed in the same manner. Woodcocks, 
 snipes, and plovers must never be drawn, they being dressed with 
 all their entrails. 
 
 Larks, Wheat-ears, c|-c. being picked clean, must have their 
 heads cut off, and the pinions at the first joint. Beat the breast¬ 
 bone flat with the handle of a knife, turn the feet close to the legs, 
 and one into the other. Draw out the gizzard, and run a skewer 
 through the middle of the bodies of as many as you mean to dress : 
 they must be tied on the spit. 
 
 Pheasants, Partridges, and Moor-Game. Pick them very clean, 
 cut a slit at the back of the neck, take out the crop, loosen the 
 liver and gut next the breast with your fore-finger, then cut off the 
 vent and draw them. Cut off the pinion at the first joint, and 
 wipe out the inside with the pinion you have cutoff: of course the 
 pinions need not be picked beyond the first joint. Beat the breast¬ 
 bone flat with a rolling pin, put a skewer in the pinion, and bring 
 the middle of the legs close. Then run the skewer through the 
 legs, body, and the other pinion ; bring the head and put it on 
 the end of the skewer, the bill fronting the breast: put another 
 skewer into the sidesman, and put the legs close on each side the 
 apron, and then run the skewer through all. The beautiful fea¬ 
 thers on the head of the cock-pheasant must be left, and paper 
 put over them to screen them from the fire. The long feathers in 
 the tail must also be saved, to be stuck in the rump when roasted. 
 
CARVING. 
 
 XXXI 
 
 If they are to be boiled, put the legs in the same manner as in a 
 fowl for boiling. 
 
 Hares. Cut off the four legs at the first joint, raise the skin 
 back, and draw it over the hind legs. Leave the tail whole, draw 
 the skin over the back, and slip out the fore-legs. Cut the skin 
 off the neck and head, taking care to leave the ears on, but do not 
 forget to skin them. Take out the liver, lights, &c.; and be 
 careful to take the gut out of the vent. Cut the sinews which lie 
 under the hind legs, bring them up to the fore-legs ; put a skewer 
 through the hind leg, then through the fore-leg under the joint, 
 run it through the body ; do the same on the other side. Put ano¬ 
 ther skewer through the thick part of the hind legs and body, put 
 the head between the shoulders, and run a skewer through to keep 
 it in its place. Put a skewer in each ear to make them stand 
 erect and tie a string round the middle of the body, over the legs, 
 to keep them in their place. 
 
 A young Fawn may be trussed in the same manner, remembering 
 to cut off the ear. 
 
 Rabbit for roasting or boiling. 
 
 Rabbits must be cased in the same manner as hares, except that 
 the ears must be cut off close to the head. Cut the vent open, 
 and slit the legs about an inch upon each side the rump. Make 
 the hind legs lie fiat, and bring the ends close to the fore-legs. 
 Put a skewer in the hind leg, then in the fore leg, and through 
 the body. If for boiling, bring the head round and put it on the 
 skewer, as per cut. If two rabbits be roasted together, they 
 should be trussed at full length, with six skewers run through 
 them both, so that they may be properly fastened on the spit. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. 
 
 It is common at good tables for the Cook to send up pigs, hams, 
 geese, turkeys, and indeed all the larger poultry ready carved ; 
 this is very convenient and saves the person presiding at the table 
 much trouble. 
 
 e 3 
 
Ixxxii 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 A leg of mutton if 
 boiled should be ser¬ 
 ved in the dish as it 
 lies upon its back; 
 but when roasted, the 
 under side, as here 
 represented by the 
 letter d, should lie 
 uppermost in the 
 dish. This joint must 
 be turned towards the 
 carver as it here lies, the shank being to the left hand; then hold¬ 
 ing it steady with his fork, he should cut down through the fleshy 
 part on the thigh quite to the bone, in the direction a, b, through 
 the gland of fat called the pope’s eye. The most juicy parts are 
 from the line a, b, upwards towards c. The fat lies chiefly on the 
 ridge e, e, and must be cut in the direction e,f. The cramp bone 
 may be cut out by holding the shank bone with the left hand, and 
 with a knife cutting down to the thigh-bone at the point d, then 
 passing under the cramp-bone in the direction d, c. 
 
 Shoulder of Mutton. The 
 shank-boneshould be wound 
 round with writing paper so 
 that the carver may turn it 
 as he pleases. It should be 
 first cut in the direction a, b , 
 the knife being passed quite 
 to the bone. The best fat 
 lies on the outer edge e, and should be cut out in thin slices in the 
 direction of e,f. Some delicate slices may be cut out on each side 
 of the ridge of the blade-bone in the direction c, d: the line be¬ 
 tween the two dotted lines is the direction in which the blade- 
 bone lies, and cannot be cut across.—On the under side are two 
 parts very full of gravy : one is a deep cut close under the shank 
 accompanied with fat, the other, the flap, is lean. 
 
 A leg of Pork may be cut up as a leg of mutton. 
 
 Edge or Aitch- 
 Bone of Beef. This 
 joint should lie 
 towards the car¬ 
 ver as here repre¬ 
 sented. A thick 
 slice should first 
 be cut off the 
 whole length of 
 the joint, begin¬ 
 ning at a, and 
 cutting it through the whole surface from a to b. The soft fat lies 
 on the back, below the letter d; the firm fat is to be cut in thin 
 
 horizontal slices at the point __ a is the skewer: it should be 
 
 drawn out before the dish is served up; or if it be necessary to 
 leave a skewer in, it should be a silver one. 
 
CARVING. 
 
 Ixxxiii 
 
 A saddle of Mutton. 
 Cut long slices in the 
 fleshy parts on both 
 sides of the back-bone 
 in the direction a, b. If 
 it be sent up with the 
 tail, this may be readily 
 divided by cutting be¬ 
 tween the joints. 
 
 A Breast of Veal 
 roasted should be 
 first cut quite 
 through the line 
 d, c; next cut it 
 across in the line 
 a, c; from c to the 
 last a on the left, 
 quite through, di¬ 
 viding the gristly 
 'from the rib-bones. The thick or gristly part should be cut into 
 pieces as wanted in the lines a, b. A rib may be cut from the line 
 d, c, and with a part of the breast, a slice of the sweetbread e, 
 cut across the middle. 
 
 A spare-rib of Pork is carved by cutting slices from the fleshy 
 part, which will afford many good cuts ; the fleshy parts being cut 
 away, the bones may be easily disjointed and separated. Apple 
 sauce is generally served up with this dish. 
 
 Half a Calf’s Head 
 boiled should first be cut 
 quite along the cheek 
 bone, in the fleshy part, 
 in the direction c, b, 
 where several handsome 
 slices may be cut. In 
 the fleshy part at the 
 neck end will be found 
 part of the throat sweet- 
 oread, which may be cut into in the line c, d, and is esteemed the 
 best part in the head. The eye may be taken out of its socket a 
 whole, by carefully forcing the point of the carving knife down 
 in one side to the bottom of the socket, and cutting quite round. 
 The white thick crinkled skin, on the under side of the roof of 
 lie mouth, called the palate, may be easily separated from the 
 oone with the knife, by lifting the head up with the left hand. 
 Good meat will be found covering the under jaw, and some nice 
 gristly fat about the ear. 
 
 The brains and tongue are generally served up in a separate 
 dish, in which case a slice from the thick part of the tongue is 
 jthe best. 
 
Ixxxiv 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 A Ham may 
 becuttwoways: 
 across in the line 
 b, c; or with the 
 point of the car¬ 
 ving knife in the 
 circle in the 
 middle, taking 
 out a small piece 
 as at c, and cut¬ 
 ting thin slices 
 in a circular di¬ 
 rection, thus enlarging it by degrees. This last method, although 
 it preserves the gravy and keeps the ham moist, is not often practi¬ 
 sed ; the most saving way is to begin at the hock and at d. 
 
 A Haunch of 
 Venison must be 
 first cut across 
 down to the bone 
 in the line a, b, c, 
 then turn the dish 
 with the end a to¬ 
 wards you, put in 
 the point of the 
 knife at b, and cut 
 it down as deep as possible in the direction b, d, and take out as 
 many slices as you please on the right or left. The best flavoured 
 and fattest slices will be found on the left of the line b, d, when 
 the end d is turned towards you. The slices should neither be 
 cut too thick nor too thin : plenty of gravy should be given with 
 them. 
 
 An Ox's Tongue should be cut across, the best slices being about 
 the middle or between the middle and the root. Slices of fat 
 having a kernal with each may be conveniently cut from the root 
 at the bottom of the dish. 
 
 Part of a Sir¬ 
 loin of Beef. A 
 part only of this 
 celebrated joint is 
 here shown, the 
 whole being too 
 large for most fami¬ 
 lies. It is here re¬ 
 presented standing 
 np in the dish, to 
 shew the inside or 
 under part; but 
 when sent to table, it is always laid down, so that c lies close on 
 the dish. The part c d then lies uppermost, and the line a b 
 under the outside slice should be first cut off quite down to the 
 bone in the direction c, d. Plenty of marrowy fat will be found 
 
CARVING. 
 
 lx XXV 
 
 underneath the ribs. To cut a slice underneath, the joint must be 
 turned up by taking hold of the end of one of the ribs with the 
 left hand, and raising it till it is in the position here represented. 
 One slice or more may now be cut in the direction of the line a, 
 b, passing the knife down to the bone. 
 
 A Buttock of Beef, sometimes called the Round, should first have 
 a thick slice cut off all round, after which cut thin slices from the 
 same place. As it is a dish that is frequently brought to table 
 cold on a second day, it should always be cut handsome and 
 even. 
 
 A Fillet of Veal is to be carved as a buttock of beef, and is 
 brought to table in the same form, but roasted; it is generally 
 stuffed under the skirt or flap with a savoury pudding ; this must 
 be cut deep into in a line with the surface of the fillet, and thin 
 slices taken out. 
 
 Afore quarter 
 of Lamb roasted 
 must have first 
 the shoulder se¬ 
 parated from the 
 breast in the di¬ 
 rection c, g, d, e; 
 this being re¬ 
 moved, pepper 
 and salt are 
 
 sprinkled upon the separated parts ; some squeeze a lemon upon 
 it: lay the shoulder again on the separated part. The gristly part 
 must next be separated from the ribs in the line/, d. The ribs may 
 be separated from the rest in the line a, b ; and a piece or two off 
 in the lines h, i, &c. Lastly, the shoulder may be put in another 
 dish and carved like a shoulder of mutton. 
 
 A roasted pig is seldom 
 sent to the table whole. 
 The head is cut off by the 
 cook, the body split down 
 the back, and served up 
 as here represented, the 
 dish being garnished with 
 the chops and ears. The 
 shoulder must be first sepa¬ 
 rated in a circular direction 
 from the carcass, as you 
 take off the shoulder from a quarter of lamb. The leg may be also 
 separated in the same manner. The triangular piece of the neck, 
 which is the most delicate part of the pig, may now be cut off, and 
 the ribs, which is esteemed the next best part, may be easily 
 divided. 
 
 IB -- 
 
 
lxxxvi 
 
 INTRODUCTION. 
 
 A Hare .—Put in 
 the point of the 
 knife at g, and cut 
 it through all the 
 way down to the 
 rump, on the side 
 of the back-bone in 
 the line g, h. Cut 
 it similarly on the 
 other side. Then 
 divide the back 
 into several small 
 pieces, more or less, in the lines i, k ; the pudding with which 
 the belly is stuffed is then readily to be got at. The legs 
 thus separated from the back-bone are now to be cut off 
 from the belly. The shoulders must be cut off in the circular 
 line e ,/, g. The leg may also, if desired, be divided from 
 the thigh ; which last is one of the best 'parts of the hare. Cut 
 off the ears at the roots, and divide the head into two parts, by 
 forcing the point of the knife first through the skull in the middle, 
 between the ears, down to the nose. 
 
 This mode of cutting up a hare can only be adroitly done when 
 the animal is young. If old, cut off the legs and shoulders first; 
 then cut off some long narrow slices from each side of the back¬ 
 bone in the direction g , h. Lastly, divide the back-bone into three 
 or more parts. 
 
 A hare stewed or jugged (see page 103) is by far the most 
 agreeable way of bringing it on table. It will make an elegant 
 and savory dish, can be kept hot, and may be served round with 
 less trouble than when roasted. 
 
 A rabbit is cut up in the same way as a hare, but being smaller, 
 after the legs are separated from the body the back is divided into 
 two or three parts, without dividing it from the belly. 
 
 A goose. — Having 
 the neck towards you, 
 cut off two or three 
 long slices from each 
 side of the breast-bone 
 in the lines a, b. Then 
 turn the goose on one 
 side, and putting the 
 fork through the small 
 end of the leg-bone and pressing it close to the body, the knife 
 being entered at d, will raise the joint, and the leg may be taken 
 off by passing the knife under it in the direction d, e. If the leg 
 hang to the carcass at the joint e, by turning it back, if the goose 
 be young, it will readily separate, if old with some difficulty. Next, 
 take the wing off by passing the fork through the small end of the 
 pinion, pressing it close to the body, entering the knife at the notch 
 c, and pressing it under the wing, in the direction c, d; there is a 
 nicety required in hitting this notch, which a little practice will 
 
CARVING. 
 
 lxxxvii 
 
 soon teach. When the leg and wing on one side are taken off, 
 take those off on the other. Cutoff the apron in the line e,f, g, 
 then the merry-thought in the linei, h. The neck-bones are next to 
 be separated as in the directions for carving a fowl, and all other 
 parts of the goose must be separated as there directed. 
 
 A green goose is also cut up in the same way. 
 
 A pheasant .—The fork should be fixed in 
 the breast so that the bird may be held firmly. 
 Cut slices from the breast in the lines a, b, 
 and proceed to take off the leg on one side in 
 direction d, e. Then cut off the wing on the 
 same side in the line c, d. Separate the leg 
 and wing on the other side, and then cut off 
 the parts you before sliced from the breast. 
 Be careful in taking off the wing to cut in the 
 proper notch; for if you cut too near the 
 neck you will find the neck-bone interfere, 
 from which, of course, the wing must be 
 separated. The merry-thought must now be 
 cut off in the line /, g, by passing the knife under it towards the 
 neck. The remaining parts must be cut up as described under 
 fowl. 
 
 A partridge is cut up like a fowl, the wings 
 being taken off in the lines a, b, and the merry¬ 
 thought in the line c, d. 
 
 A fowl is cut up in the same way whe¬ 
 ther roasted or boiled. The legs, wings, 
 and merry-thought are to be taken off in the 
 way mentioned under pheasant. The fowl is 
 here represented on its side, with one of the 
 legs, wings, and neck-bones taken off. The 
 leg, wing, and merry-thought being removed, 
 cut off the neck-bones, which 
 is done by putting in the knife 
 at g, and passing it under the 
 long broad part of the bones in 
 the line g, b , then lifting it up 
 and breaking off the end of 
 the shorter part of the bone 
 which is attached to the breast¬ 
 bone. Divide the breast from 
 the back by cutting through the 
 tender ribs on each side from the neck down to the tail. Then lay 
 the back upwards on your plate, fix your fork in the rump, and 
 laying the edge of your knife in the line b, c, c, and, pressing it 
 down, lift up the tail part of the back, and it will readily divide, 
 with the assistance of the knife in the line b, c. Lastly, lay the 
 tail part of the back upwards in your plate with the rump from 
 you, and cut off the side bones by forcing the knife through the 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 Ixxxviii 
 
 rump-bone in the lines e,/. By very little practice you may cut 
 the whole of one side of the fowl, i. e. the leg and wing in one 
 direct line. 
 
 A turkey, whether roasted or boiled, is sent to table like a fowl, 
 and cut up in every respect like a pheasant. 
 
 No. 1. No. 2. 
 
 Back. Breast. 
 
 A pigeon, (No. 1 is the back, 
 No. 2 is the breast,) is sometimes 
 cut up as a ch:cken, but most com¬ 
 monly by fixing the fork at the 
 point a, entering the knife just be¬ 
 fore it, and dividing the pigeon in 
 two according to the lines a, b, and 
 a, c, in No. 1 ; at the same time 
 bringing the knife out at the back 
 in the direction a, b, and a, c, 
 No. 2. 
 
 A cod's head, and, 
 indeed, fish gene¬ 
 rally, require few 
 directions for carv¬ 
 ing. The middle or 
 thickest part of a 
 fish is esteemed the 
 best. When cut, it 
 should be either 
 with a spoon or 
 fish-slice. Take off 
 a piece quite down 
 to the bone in the directions a, b, d, c, putting in the spoon at 
 a, c ; with each slice of fish give a piece of the sound which 
 lies underneath the back-bone and lines it, the meat of which 
 is thin and somewhat darker-coloured than the body of the fish 
 itself. 
 
 Boiled salmon. — The 
 belly is the fattest. In 
 carving, it is desirable, 
 unless objected to, to 
 give a slice of the back 
 and belly to each person: 
 for the one cut it in the 
 direction d, c, the other 
 in the line a, b. 
 
 Soles are sent to table two ways, fried and boiled. Cut them 
 across the middle, bone and all, and give a piece of the fish, a third 
 or fourth part, to each person. The same may be done with other 
 fishes, cutting them across. 
 
 Eds are to be cut into pieces of about three inches long. The 
 thickest part is reckoned the best. 
 
BILLS OF FARE 
 
 
 AND 
 
 TABLES 
 
 JHeat, poultry, (ftame, Vegetables, anti Jprutt 
 
 IN SEASON DURING THE YEAR. 
 
 
BILL OF FARE FOR JANUARY. 
 
 jptrst Course. 
 
 White Soup. 
 
 Small Ham. 
 Mashed Potatoes. 
 
 Soles. 
 
 Calf’s Head. 
 
 Harrico of Mutton. 
 Broccoli. 
 
 Roast Beef. 
 Turbot or Cod’s Head. 
 
 Turkey. 
 
 Tongue or Chine. 
 
 Mock Turtle. 
 
 S&econtf Course. 
 
 Roast Partridges. 
 
 Blanc Mange. Larks. 
 
 Fancy Pastry garnished with Conserves. 
 
 Roast Rabbits. Sweet Bread. 
 
 Capon garnished with Cresses. 
 
 Mince Pies. 
 
 Poached Eggs on Spinach. Punch and other Jellies 
 
 Fritters of Oysters. 
 
 Hcmobcs. 
 
 Sweet Breads. 
 
 Sausages. 
 
 Lemon Pudding. 
 Tarts of Preserved Fruits. 
 
 Note. —The soups and fish are to be served first, the removes 
 are to replace the roasts when taken off. When turtle is served 
 it is usual to have a plain soup on the side table, where there 
 should also be plenty of plain dressed vegetables during all the 
 dinner. 
 
 ijijiPPfPW 
 
BILL OF FARE FOR MARCH. 
 
 Joint of House Lamb. 
 
 Chickens. 
 
 Harrico of Mutton. 
 
 Jptrst (bourse. 
 
 Gravy Soup. 
 Capon. 
 
 Oyster Patties. 
 Rice Soup. 
 
 lEntrccs. 
 
 Artichokes. 
 Cranberry Tarts. 
 
 Cucumbers. 
 Fricaseed Fowls. 
 
 Lettuces. 
 
 Mushrooms broiled. 
 Fricaseed Rabbits. 
 Almond Tarts. 
 
 Marrow Pudding, 
 Prawns. 
 Ducklings. 
 
 Tongue. 
 Calf’s Head. 
 Beef Olives. 
 
 Spinach. 
 
 £beconti Course. 
 
 Turkey. 
 
 Mince Pies. 
 Pigeons. 
 
 Strawberries in Cream. 
 

 BILL OF FARE FOR OCTOBER. 
 
 jpi'rst Course. 
 
 White Soup. 
 
 Salmon Trout. Fried Soles. 
 
 Saddle of Mutton. 
 
 Cauliflowers. Stewed Spinach. 
 
 Two Chickens boiled and served with a Tongue. 
 
 Ulelets of Sweet Bread. Oyster Patties. 
 
 Trout. 
 
 ^econb Course. 
 
 Roast Grouse. 
 
 Pheasants. Partridges. 
 
 Prawns. 
 
 rart of Fruit decorated. French Beaus in Poulette Sauce. 
 
 Custards. 
 
 Sufflee of preserved Ginger. Marrow Pudding. 
 
 Roast Rabbits. 
 
ARTICLES IN SEASON. 
 
 xciv 
 
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 ARTICLES IN SEASON 
 
XCIX 
 
NEW FAMILY COOK. 
 
 CHAPTER I. 
 
 BOILING. 
 
 Please, Mistress Cook, I’d not offend. 
 Listen one moment to a friend. 
 Whatever food you have to dress. 
 
 Keep always by you CLEANLINESS— 
 
 A comely maiden neat and nice ; 
 
 Good Cooks will follow this advice. 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. All meat should be 
 boiled slowly and in plenty of water. If boiled fast, the 
 outside will be hardened before the inside is warm and the 
 meat will be discoloured.* It is usual to allow a quarter of 
 an hour’s boiling to every pound of meat, but this rule, 
 although a good general one, is, nevertheless, liable to 
 many exceptions which will require the exercise of the cook’s 
 discretion. If the joint be a thick one, such as a buttock 
 or a round of beef, more than a quarter of an hour must be 
 I allowed for each pound; if the joint be a small and a thin 
 
 * “ A thermometer was placed in water in that state which 
 cooks call gentle simmering—the heat was 212° (i.e.) the same 
 i degree as the strongest boiling. Two mutton chops were covered 
 i with cold water, one boiled a gallop, the other simmered gently, 
 j for three quarters of an hour; the flavour of the chop which was 
 simmered was decidedly superior to that which was boiled; the 
 liquor which boiled fast was in like proportion more savoury, and 
 when cold, had more fat on its surface. This explains why quick 
 : boiling renders meat hard, because its juices are extracted in a 
 i 1 greater degree.” — House Boole of William Scott, M.D. See the 
 article Boiling in page 27G of that work, in which are some ob¬ 
 servations deserving the attention of the cook, but for which we 
 I have no room. 
 
 From these facts we arrive at an important conclusion for the 
 , cook, namely, that when the boiled meat is wanted to be eaten it 
 should be boiled slowly; when the juices of the meat only are 
 wanted, as for soups, broths, beef-tea, See. fast boiling must be 
 the best. 
 
2 
 
 BOILING. 
 
 one, such as a neck of lamb, somewhat less than a quarter of 
 an hour for each pound will be enough. 
 
 During the boiling of every kind of meat the scum 
 which arises should be frequently taken off: for if it be not, 
 the meat will be discoloured. Fresh meat is usually directed 
 in cookery books to be put into the water when it boils; 
 salt meat when the water is cold. Upon the whole, how¬ 
 ever, if both fresh and salt meat be put in while the water 
 is cold and thus become hot gradually, it will be found the 
 best method. 
 
 Notwithstanding what has been said above relative to 
 boiling meat in plenty of water, discretion even in this is 
 necessary, particularly if the liquor in which the meat is 
 boiled be designed to be preserved, and also in regard to the 
 economising of the heat: for, of course, the larger the 
 quantity of liquid to be kept boiling the greater must be the 
 fire. And here it should be particularly noted that, although 
 the fluid in which meat is boiled has been designated, 
 by the inconsiderate, under the reproachful term of pot- 
 liquor, and, too often, treated accordingly; yet every econo¬ 
 mical housekeeper should know that much of the nutritive 
 parts of meat becomes dissolved in the water during the 
 boiling, and that the pot-liquor, especially that from fresh 
 meat, may be made, even if in large quantity and weak, 
 a strong broth by boiling some of the water away after the 
 meat is taken out. Such liquor will be found very conve¬ 
 nient for the making of soups. See the note above. 
 
 Neither milk nor oatmeal should be put into the water, 
 which ought to be soft, if it can be obtained sweet. Some 
 dredge the joint to be boiled with flour, a useless practice, 
 and particularly so when the liquor is designed to be after¬ 
 wards employed as broth or soup. It is also usual, and 
 indeed most wholesome, to boil lamb, veal, and pork till 
 they are thoroughly done; but mutton and beef may be less 
 boiled without any injury to their nutritive qualities. It 
 is also usual to put a portion of salt in the water; the 
 utility of this may be questioned ; but as water containing 
 salt requires a greater heat to make it boil, salt may be thus 
 useful in.making tough meat more tender. Of course no 
 salt should be put to the water in which any salt meat is to 
 be boiled. 
 
 
BOILING.— CALF’S HEAD. 
 
 3 
 
 Although we have, in some instances, when particular 
 delicacy in cooking is desirable, directed the joint to be 
 enclosed in a cloth, it should be observed that this method 
 is not absolutely necessary, provided great care be taken in 
 removing- the scum as it arises, and in otherwise guarding 
 the vessel from the access of impurities—smoke, soot, &c. 
 during the boiling: but particular care should always be 
 taken that the liquor during the boiling completely covers 
 the joint; or it will often happen that the scum and .other 
 impurities will stick to the portion of it above the water 
 and render it unsightly and disagreeable. 
 
 To admonish the cook that all the vessels in which meat 
 is boiled should be clean and wholesome may seem almost 
 unnecessary; but cleanliness in a cook can be scarcely too 
 much insisted on. All copper , brass , and lead utensils are 
 more or less poisonous and must be carefully avoided in 
 cookery, unless their insides be well tinned. The best 
 boilers, saucepans, and stewpans, are those made of iron 
 tinned in the inside. But reference may be made to the 
 section concerning the Implements of Cookery in the In¬ 
 troduction. See also what is there said in regard to the 
 employment of steam in the cooking of food. 
 
 CALF’S HEAD. Divide the head into two parts. Let 
 the brains and the tongue be taken out and washed well in 
 water; after which set them by soaking in water for an 
 hour or more in order to their being made into a dish to be 
 described below. 
 
 Let the divided head be now washed well in several 
 waters in order to separate the blood and other impurities; 
 and if it be soaked afterwards in warm water for half an 
 hour it will be more effectually cleansed. Put now the head 
 into cold water having previously tied it up in a cloth; set 
 it on the lire to boil and as the scum arises let it be taken 
 off. It should be boiled till it is perfectly tender. The 
 time of its boiling will depend upon its size; if small an 
 hour and a half may be sufficient; if large two hours and 
 a half; and if boiled with the skin on, by which it is made 
 a very nutritious dish, it will require from half an hour to 
 an hour longer. Let it be served up browned over with 
 grated crust of bread; some use also parsley chopped fine. 
 Bacon or pickled pork is usually the accompanying dish; 
 
 b 2 
 
BOILING.—VEAL. 
 
 4 
 
 the vegetables are either greens, carrots, or potatoes if they 
 be preferred. 
 
 The brains, being- effectually cleansed and the membranes 
 separated from them, boil them in a cloth for about a quar¬ 
 ter of an hour; boil some sage or parsley (some use both) 
 till it is tender; let it be chopped fine and mixed with two 
 table spoonfuls of melted butter to which add a little salt. 
 Chop the boiled brains small, and warm them in a saucepan 
 with a bit of butter, a little pepper and salt; to this add 
 the sage or parsley. 
 
 Lay the tongue boiled and peeled in the middle of a small 
 dish and the brains round it. 
 
 Cold Calf’s head is not desirable; but when hashed , 
 which it may be, with the addition of some sweet herb, an 
 onion, lemon peel, &c. it becomes a savoury dish. A few 
 slices of bacon warmed may be placed around the dish w-hen 
 it is served up. 
 
 It sometimes happens that one-half of the calf’s head is 
 desired to be boiled while the other is baked; in such case 
 the part to be baked, after being well cleansed, must be first 
 parboiled; then beat up the yolk of an egg and rub it over 
 the head with a feather; strew over it some pepper, salt, 
 thyme, parsley chopped small, sliced lemon peel, grated 
 bread and nutmeg; stick bits of butter over it and bake it. 
 The boiled and baked parts may be served up on the same dish. 
 
 TO BOIL VEAL LIKE STURGEON. Take a small 
 and fine fillet of veal from a cow calf, and after having- 
 removed the membranous skin which surrounds it, lard it 
 all over with some bacon and ham. Put into a stewpan 
 some slices of bacon and veal, over which strew some 
 pepper, salt, and sweet herbs; put in the fillet with suf¬ 
 ficient broth to cover the whole. The stewpan being' 
 closely covered let them simmer very gently. When the 
 veal is nearly done enough, add a bottle of good white 
 wine, an onion sliced, a few cloves, and a little mace. Put 
 on the cover of the stewpan, and set it again over the fire 
 for ten minutes. If it is intended to be eaten hot the fol¬ 
 lowing sauce must be made while it is stewing: — 
 
 Take a glass* of gravy, and a glass and a half of vine- 
 
 * Whenever a glass is mentioned as a measure in this work it is 
 to be understood as a wine -glass or two ounces. 
 
5 
 
 BOILING. — LAMB, VENISON, BEEF. 
 
 gar, half a lemon sliced, a large onion sliced, some bruised 
 pepper-corns, and some salt. Boil the whole a few minutes 
 and strain it through a hair sieve. Lay the meat in the dish 
 and pour the sauce over it. 
 
 If it is to be eaten cold it must not remain in the liquor 
 in which it is stewed, but be taken out and placed in a 
 proper vessel: it will prove very good. 
 
 GRASS LAMB, when boiled, should be served up with 
 spinach, cabbage, carrots, or broccoli. 
 
 A LEG OF LAMB is usually boiled in a cloth, in 
 order that it may become white ; the loin is sometimes cut 
 into steaks and fried : both are often served up together, the 
 I leg being placed in the middle of the dish, and the fried 
 1 steaks around it. Garnish with fried parsley. Spinach is 
 usually the accompanying vegetable dish. 
 
 A HAUNCH OR A NECK OF VENISON, having 
 1 lain in salt for a week should be boiled in a cloth well 
 floured. For sauce boil some cauliflowers, pulled into little 
 sprigs, in milk and water, with some fine white cabbage, 
 
 ) some turnips cut into squares, and beet-root cut into pieces 
 about an inch and a half long and half an inch thick. After 
 the cabbage is boiled let it be beaten in a saucepan with 
 some butter and salt. When the meat is done and placed 
 | in the dish lay a sprig of cauliflower and some of the tur¬ 
 nips mashed, with some cream and a little butter; lay the 
 cabbage next, then the turnips, and so on till the dish be 
 full. Dispose the beet-root tastefully. Let there be also 
 some melted butter if required. This is a good as well as 
 a showy dish. 
 
 The haunch or neck thus dressed eats well when hashed 
 j with gravy and sweet sauce. 
 
 FOR THE BOILING OF BEEF GENERALLY, 
 the directions at the beginning of this chapter will be suf¬ 
 ficient ; but it may be useful here to observe that, if any 
 joint of beef, not much salted, and designed to be boiled, 
 I be inclosed in a paste made with flour and water, the good- 
 .3 ness of the meat will be more effectually retained, and, 
 ] consequently, be of superior quality to that which is boiled 
 in immediate contact with water; but when thus inclosed 
 \ the joint will require more time in boiling. One of the best 
 
6 
 
 BOILING. — BEEF, HAM. 
 
 joints to be treated in this way is that known in London by 
 the name of an H-bone, but it ought rather to be called 
 isch-bone. 
 
 AN ECONOMICAL ISCH-BONE OF BEEF. In¬ 
 close the piece of beef commonly called an H-bone or edge- 
 bone in a paste made with flour and water with which mix 
 some beef-suet chopped fine; boil in proportion to the 
 weight of the joint, but more than a quarter of an hour 
 for each pound should be allowed; indeed it qught to be 
 boiled till the paste as w r ell as the meat is completely done. 
 Let it be served up with the paste in the dish and with the fol¬ 
 lowing sauce in a boat. Grate plenty of horse-raddish and 
 mix it with some crumb of bread chopped fine and a lump 
 of sugar; boil these for a few minutes with some of the 
 liquor in which the beef has been boiled; let it be thick. 
 This is at once an economical and an excellent dish. 
 
 Note .—If you desire to serve it up in a more elegant 
 way, the paste may be placed in a separate dish. 
 
 A BULLOCK’S OR CALF’S HEART is sometimes 
 boiled; it may be stuffed as mentioned under Baking , which 
 see; or it is sometimes stuffed with sage and onion like a 
 goose, (see Roasting Goose). Many prefer this last stuf¬ 
 fing. It should be served up with the same gravy, &c. as 
 directed for baked heart. It will require more than a quar¬ 
 ter of an hour for each pound that it weighs. 
 
 A HAM, if old and large, requires at least twelve hours’ 
 soaking, but thirty or even forty hours will be better, in 
 pure soft water previously to its being boiled. The soaking 
 is designed chiefly to abstract some of the saltness of the 
 ham by which it will be rendered more palatable and more 
 wholesome. A green ham requires no previous soaking. 
 A ham of twenty pounds will take, if thick and short, Jive 
 hours in boiling, and thus in proportion for one of a larger 
 or a smaller size. Care must be taken that the ham is boiled 
 slowly, and that during the boiling the pot is well skimmed. 
 When the ham is taken up, pull off the skin and rub it all 
 over, by means of a feather, with an egg; then strew over 
 it some grated crust of bread. Some however employ 
 crumb of bread, and baste the ham with butter, laying it 
 before the fire till it becomes of a light brown. The eg’g 
 is frequently omitted. 
 
BOILING.—TONGUE, PORK. 7 
 
 Observe, that these are the more usual methods of 
 treating- hams; yet some persons still serve them up with 
 the skins on them; and, if the hams be sufficiently boiled, 
 the skins will be found a very nutritious part of them; the 
 skins of all animals, when freed from the scarf-skin, con¬ 
 sisting principally of gelatine, and are almost -wholly soluble 
 in water by long boiling. The great fault of the ham to be 
 obtained in the ham-shops of London is that it is almost 
 always insufficiently dressed. The economical cook will 
 not fail to profit by these remarks concerning the skins of 
 hams ; and if it should be determined to strip them off 
 they need not be thrown away, but may be converted by 
 more boiling into a useful jelly. The skin appears to be 
 one of the least affected or injured of all the animal parts 
 by being salted ; and it should be remembered, besides, that 
 if the ham is designed to be kept for some days as a cold 
 dish, the skin’s remaining on it will preserve it better than 
 if it be taken off. 
 
 A NEAT’S TONGUE, if dried, should be steeped all 
 night in water; if it has been long dried, twenty-four 
 hours’ steeping will be necessary previously to it being 
 boiled. If pickled, and consequently soft, a few hours 
 steeping only is necessary. A moderate sized tongue wall 
 require three hours’ boiling at least. When it is done let 
 the skin be stripped off. If to be eaten hot some stick it 
 with cloves, and rub it also wdth the yolk of an egg, 
 strewing crumbled bread on it, then basting it with butter 
 and lightly browning it before the fire ; but these condi¬ 
 ments are unnecessary and not well calculated to im¬ 
 prove the taste of the tongue. Brown gravy or red wine 
 sauce is usually put into the dish, and currant-jelly round 
 the rim. 
 
 PICKLED PORK, being washed and scraped clean, 
 must be boiled till the skin is tender. A pease pudding 
 should always accompany this dish, as well as indeed all 
 other salt pork, which should be thoroughly done before 
 it is served up. 
 
 PIGS’ PETIT-TOES must be boiled till they are tender; 
 but take up the heart, liver, and lights when they have 
 boiled ten minutes, and shred them small. Take out the 
 feet when boiled and split them ; thicken your gravy with 
 
8 
 
 BOILING.— TRIPE, LAMb’s HEAD. 
 
 flour* ancl butter, and put into your mincemeat a spoonful 
 of white wine, a slice of lemon, a little salt, and give it a 
 gentle boil. Put two spoonfuls of cream to the beaten 
 yolk of an egg and a little grated nutmeg; then put in the 
 petit-toes and shake them over the fire till they are quite 
 hot. Lay sippets of bread round the dish, into which pour 
 the whole, and garnish with sliced lemon. 
 
 TRIPE should be boiled in milk and water with onions, 
 some of which may be afterwards made into sauce: it 
 must be boiled till it is tender; one hour is commonly 
 enough for that which is obtained at the tripe shops. Let 
 it be served up in a tureen, with some of the onions, in 
 the liquor in which it is boiled; melted butter and mustard 
 are its usual accompaniments. 
 
 COW-HEELS should be boiled till they are tender, 
 then be cut into pieces; egg and bread crumb them and 
 fry them a light brown, and lay them round a dish ; put in 
 the middle of it sliced onions fried, or the accompaniments 
 of tripe. The liquor in which they are boiled will make 
 soup or jelly. — See Soups. 
 
 If, however, you desire a more plain and more wholesome 
 dish, omit the egg and onions, the last disagreeing with 
 many stomachs ; and it may be added here, that cooks 
 generally are too fond of using eggs upon every occasion. 
 
 A LAMB’S HEAD, being washed clean, the black 
 taken from the eyes and the gall from the liver, must be 
 put into warm water and boiled white ; when done, lay it in 
 a dish with the following minced-meat round it: boil the 
 heart, lights, and part of the liver till they are tender; 
 then chop, flour, and put them in some gravy seasoned 
 with catchup, a little pepper, salt, lemon-juice, and a 
 spoonful of cream. Place the other parts of the liver fried 
 with small bits of bacon on the minced-meat, and let the 
 brains be fried in little cakes and placed round the rim 
 
 * Flour is generally ordered in cookery books to thicken melted 
 butter; but the cook ought to know how convenient soever it 
 may be to snatch up the flour box and shake in the flour, that 
 flour , sent into the stomach in the crude state in which it is in 
 melted butter, is extremely unwholesome : flour, therefore, for 
 such purpose should, if possible, be avoided : —see more on this 
 subject under Soups, Sauces, and Gravies, as well as in various 
 other places in our work. 
 
BOILING.—MUTTON, RABBIT, AND CHICKEN. 9 
 
 with crisped parsley between them. Pour melted butter 
 over the head, and garnish with lemon. 
 
 A LEG OF MUTTON WITH CAULIFLOWERS 
 AND SPINACH.—Boil a leg 1 of mutton, cut venison 
 fashion, in a cloth; boil also three or four cauliflowers in 
 milk and water; pull them into sprigs and stew them with 
 butter, pepper, salt, and a little milk; stew also some 
 spinach and put to it a quarter of a pint of gravy, a piece 
 of butter, and a little flour. The mutton being placed in a 
 dish, put the spinach round it, and the cauliflower over all. 
 Melt the butter in which the cauliflower is stewed into a 
 smooth cream, and pour it on the joint. 
 
 Note, that there are other and more economical methods 
 of dressing a leg of mutton than the above: for a small 
 family a leg of mutton may be divided into a fillet and a 
 knuckle; each of which may be boiled on different days, 
 so that both may be eaten hot, or the fillet may be roasted. 
 Although we have directed the mutton above to be inclosed 
 in a cloth, there is not, in general, the least necessity for 
 thus covering the joint, provided that the scum which 
 arises in the boiling be carefully taken off. If you desire 
 to have a leg of mutton tender it is necessary that it 
 should hang 1 up in a cool place for three or four days, or 
 in the winter even a week before it is dressed. The chief 
 complaints to be made of the mutton to be obtained in 
 London is, that it is dressed too soon after being killed ; 
 and that it is too fat. 
 
 A RABBIT of a middling size will require about three- 
 quarters of an hour to be boiled; when it is done pull out 
 the jaw-bones, stick them in the eyes, and serve it up with 
 a sprig of myrtle or barberries in the mouth, covering the 
 whole with onion sauce; melted butter with parsley should 
 also accompany the dish. 
 
 A CHICKEN should lie in milk and water or skimmed 
 milk for two hours previously to being 1 boiled. Then, after 
 being singed and dusted with flour, cover it close in cold 
 water and set it on a slowfire. Having taken off the scum, boil 
 it slowly for twenty minutes. Serve it up with white sauce. 
 
 A FOWL must be singed and then dusted with flour; 
 put it into cold water, cover the kettle closely and set it on 
 the fire. Let the scum be carefully taken off covering the 
 
 b 3 
 
10 BOILING.—TURKEY, DUCK, PIGEON. 
 
 vessel closely again: boil for half an hour or thereabouts ; 
 a small fowl requires less time than is here specified, a 
 large one more ; a very large fowl, as well as a capon, will 
 require an hour. Melted butter and parsley is the usual 
 sauce ; or white sauce may be used instead ; most persons 
 like a nice bit of boiled bacon to eat with a fowl; which 
 certainly renders it much more savoury. Some will boil a 
 fowl with oysters enclosed in it; but delicate stomachs do 
 not like such a dish. 
 
 A TURKEY (hens it is said are the best for boiling) 
 should not be fed the day before it is killed; nor should it 
 be dressed till it has hung three or four days at least. 
 Stuffing is prepared in various ways; some use bread, 
 about twenty oysters chopped fine, a little lemon peel, salt, 
 pepper, and nutmeg, with four ounces of butter, three 
 eggs, and a spoonful or two of cream; others omit the 
 oysters, but put in, besides bread, an anchovy, some beef 
 suet, shred ham, with herbs, pepper, &c. Stuff the crop 
 with part, and make the rest into balls and boil them. 
 Dredge the turkey well with flour, tie it in a cloth and 
 set it to boil. A moderate sized bird will require an hour 
 and a half, a large one two hours. Turkey poults about 
 twenty minutes. Let it be scummed well during the 
 boiling. Place the force-meat balls around the dish, and 
 make ready some oyster sauce, with the addition of butter 
 and cream, or liver and lemon sauce, to be poured over the 
 bird before it is sent to the table ; or the liver sauce may 
 be sent up in a boat: so also may be the oyster sauce, 
 mixed with some boiled and mashed celery. This dish is 
 very good, with pork sausages, which are, perhaps, the best 
 forcemeat; but tongue, ham, bacon, or pickled pork is the 
 usual accompanying dish. 
 
 A DUCK, after lying for a few minutes in warm water, 
 should be taken out, placed in an earthen pan, and have a 
 pint of boiling milk poured over it, in which it must re¬ 
 main for two or three hours; then take it out, dredge it 
 with flour, and boil it in a cloth for twenty minutes. Let 
 it be served up covered with onion sauce. Or the duck 
 may be salted for two days, then boiled and served up with 
 onion sauce : this last method is preferred to the preceding l 
 by some cooks. 
 
BOILING.— GOOSE, PARTRIDGE, PHEASANTS,&C. 11 
 
 A PIGEON, after being washed in several waters and 
 dredged with flour, must be boiled for fifteen minutes. 
 Pour melted butter over it and lay a little brocoli in the dish; 
 parsley and butter should also be sent up with it in a boat. 
 
 A GOOSE may be salted for a week and then boiled 
 for an hour. It should be served up with onion sauce, or 
 cabbage boiled or stewed in butter. 
 
 Another way is to singe the goose and pour over it a 
 quart of boiling milk. Let it lie all night, then take it 
 out and dry it well with a cloth. Cut small a large onion 
 and some sage, and put them into the goose, closing both 
 | the neck and vent; hang it up by the leg till the next 
 day. Boil it for one hour. Serve it up with onion sauce. 
 
 A PARTRIDGE should boil quickly in a good deal of 
 water for fifteen minutes. Let your sauce be made with a 
 quarter of a pint of cream and half an ounce of butter 
 melted ; mix these and pour over the bird. In the absence 
 of cream, melted butter may be employed alone. 
 
 A PHEASANT, if small, requires half an hour’s boil¬ 
 ing; if large, three quarters. Stew some celery cut fine 
 'i and thickened with cream, to which add a bit of butter 
 rolled in flour, and season with salt for sauce, which pour 
 over the bird and garnish with lemon. 
 
 SNIPES or WOODCOCKS must be boiled in the 
 ! following gravy: cut a pound of beef into small pieces and 
 boil it in two quarts of water, with an onion, some sweet 
 herbs, a blade or two of mace, six cloves, and some whole 
 pepper, till half the water is consumed ; season it with salt, 
 
 |: and then strain it off and put the birds into the liquor : 
 
 ten minutes boiling will be sufficient. While this is going 
 |i on cut the guts and liver small; take a little of the gravy 
 i and stew them in it with a blade of mace. Grate now as 
 I much crumb of bread as is inside a stale roll; put it into 
 a pan with butter, and fry it till it becomes crisp and of 
 a light brown colour. When the birds are ready, take 
 half a pint of the gravy in which they were boiled, and 
 add to the chopped guts two spoonfuls of red wine and half an 
 ounce of butter rolled in flour. Set them on the fire shaking 
 the saucepan often, but not stirring with a spoon, till the 
 butter is melted; put in the fried crumbs and shake the 
 saucepan again. Lay your birds in the dish and pour the 
 " sauce over them. Garnish with sliced lemon. 
 
12 
 
 BOILING.—FISH, SALMON. 
 
 OF THE BOILING OF FISH little is here necessary 
 to be said, as particular directions are given below for their 
 individual cooking. It may, however, be observed that the 
 white kinds, such as cod, whiting, haddock, &c., are now 
 very often dressed by steam; and, indeed, salmon is some¬ 
 times thus prepared for the table; we think, nevertheless, 
 that this last fish will be decidedly better for being boiled in 
 water. But a little reflection will soon convince the family 
 cook, that those fish, such as cod, which contain an abun¬ 
 dance of gelatine that readily dissolves in water, more espe¬ 
 cially when boiling, must be more nutritious when dressed 
 by steam, the gelatine not being so soon abstracted by this 
 last medium; not to mention the loss on the score of eco¬ 
 nomy incurred by boiling the fish in water. 
 
 It should be noted that, when the fish is sufficiently 
 boiled and might not be immediately wanted, it must be 
 taken out, placed in a dish, and covered with a cloth and 
 set over the boiling water, in order that it may be kept hot; 
 when wanted, it may again be put into the water for a mi¬ 
 nute or two. 
 
 In regard to the boiling, or otherwise dressing, of all dried 
 fish, they ought all to be previously soaked in water for a 
 period more or less long, dependant on their size and salt¬ 
 ness; it is true red-herrings are generally broiled without 
 being soaked; but there can be no doubt, even th«se would 
 be improved both in flavour and quality by soaking in water: 
 an hour or two may be sufficient for dried whiting and other 
 white fish of a similar size, if not much salted; a much 
 longer time is required for larger fish, as cod, which see. 
 Sometimes, when expedition is required, boiling water poured 
 over the fish, will abstract the salt sooner and otherwise fit 
 it for dressing. 
 
 A SALMON, being freed from its scales, blood, and en¬ 
 trails, reserving the liver and the roe, and being also well 
 washed, put it into boiling water with some salt and boil it, 
 according to its weight, the same time as is directed for 
 boiling butcher’s meat. The roe may be boiled with the 
 salmon ; but the liver is best boiled in a separate saucepan 
 and then made into sauce. Horse-radish is sometimes 
 boiled with this fish. Garnish with slices of fried salmon 
 or some small fish, scraped horse-radish, and fennel, which 
 last is indispensable as a garnish and as sauce. Shrimp- 
 
BOILING.—TURBOT, COD. 13. 
 
 sauce, or lobster-sauce, and plain melted butter, will be 
 useful additions. 
 
 If you have any of the salmon left, take equal parts of the 
 liquor in which it was boiled and vinegar; boil for half an 
 hour with some whole pepper, cayenne, bay leaves, mace, 
 horse-radish sliced, and salt. When cold, put the salmon into 
 it. This will be an excellent pickled salmon in a few hours. 
 
 Note, that it is necessary your pickle should completely 
 cover the fish. 
 
 In dressing part of a salmon, the same rule of boiling 
 should be observed, but the time may be rather less. 
 
 A TURBOT or BRILL, being well cleansed and soaked 
 an hour in cold water, put it on the fish-strainer with the 
 belly upwards, and fasten a cloth tight over it, to prevent its 
 breaking; or score the skin across the thickest part of the 
 back, and place its belly on the strainer without a cloth. 
 Put it into the fish-kettle with cold spring water, to which 
 add four ounces of salt and half a pint of vinegar. Boil it 
 gently for fifteen minutes, or more, according to the size of 
 the fish : a turbot, if seven pounds, will require about this 
 time. Take care that the kettle is skimmed well at the 
 commencement and during the boiling. Serve it up, gar¬ 
 nished with fried oysters or fried smelts, crisped parsley, 
 lemon, and horse-radish. Lobster-sauce and plain melted 
 butter are considered indispensable. 
 
 A COD, being freed from the gills, blood, and entrails, 
 and well washed, must be boiled in plenty of water, to which 
 should be added a quarter of a pint of vinegar and four 
 ounces of salt. The fish should be put into the water when 
 it is boiling. If a small fish, it will be done in fifteen mi¬ 
 nutes ; a large one requires half an hour; indeed, if very 
 large, considerably more. The writer of this had once a 
 cod, which was caught in the Bristol Channel, the largest it 
 is believed ever heard of, which weighed sixty pounds, and 
 for which he gave the very moderate price of five shillings, 
 that is, one penny per pound ; it was a very good one, and 
 took two or more hours in the boiling. 
 
 In serving up cod, the dish should be garnished with 
 horse-radish. Shrimp or oyster sauce is also a common 
 condiment, to which may be added cayenne pepper. But 
 perhaps simple vinegar and a little salt are, after all, the 
 most wholesome, joined with a small portion of cayenne; 
 
14 
 
 BOILING. — COD. 
 
 but some use catchup. The liver should be cut in half and 
 laid on each side. 
 
 If THE HEAD AND SHOULDERS OF THE COD 
 only be desired, boil as above directed for the whole cod; 
 but, as this is esteemed a superior dish, it is usual, after it is 
 boiled, to take off the skin carefully, lay the fish before a 
 brisk fire, dredge it with flour and baste it with butter. 
 When the froth rises, throw crumbs of bread over it and 
 baste it till it froths w r ell. When brow r n, serve it up, with 
 a garnish of small fish or oysters fried, barberries, horse¬ 
 radish, and lemon, not omitting the roe, if any, and the 
 liver, both which cut in slices; a little lobster-sauce should 
 aiso be laid in lumps over the fish, which, and oyster-sauce 
 and melted butter, are usual accompaniments. 
 
 Whatever might be the opinion of gourmands as to this 
 last and the preceding dish, there can be no doubt that the 
 first is by far the most wholesome food. See w’hat is said 
 under the general head of Boiling Fish at page 12. 
 
 CODS’ SOUNDS, dressed in the following manner, 
 make an agreeable dish: boil them as for eating: take them 
 up and let them remain till quite cold. Make a force-meat 
 of chopped oysters, crumb of bread, butter, the yolks of two 
 eggs, nutmeg, pepper, and salt; fill the sounds with this 
 mixture; skewer them like a little turkey and lard them 
 down on each side as you would the breast of a turkey. 
 Flour them and set them before the fire in a tin oven to 
 roast; baste them well with butter. When done pour 
 oyster-sauce over them, and garnish with barberries. 
 
 Observe, that we have been somewhat particular in 
 describing the dressing of cod, because we believe that it is 
 a most wholesome and nutritious, as well as often a cheap 
 dish. It contains an abundance of gelatine; from the head 
 as well as the sounds may be obtained, -with a very little 
 trouble, a considerable quantity of good isinglass, -which 
 is merely dried gelatine, equal, we have little doubt, to 
 that obtained from the sturgeon. 
 
 SALT COD, or LING, should lie in w r ater for at least 
 twelve hours; sometimes double that period will be neces¬ 
 sary if the fish be very salt, the w r ater being changed tw T o or 
 three times, or even more: indeed, upon its being w T ell 
 soaked, so that much of the salt which is in it may be dis¬ 
 solved and washed out depends the, goodness of tins dish. 
 
BOILING.—SOLES, CARP. 15 
 
 Some add to it, while in soak, a few ounces of vinegar, it is 
 said, to get out the salt; but we do not see on what prin¬ 
 ciple this is done; however, it can do no harm. 
 
 The fish should be put into a good deal of cold water, and 
 the heat under the kettle be gradually raised till the water 
 approaches the boiling point, but does not actually boil; in 
 this state it should be kept till the fish is done, which will 
 be known by its readily separating into flakes. It is said, 
 by Count Rumford, that the great art of boiling salt fish in 
 the New England States of North America consists in 
 keeping it in w 7 ater scalding hot for several hours, but not 
 
 ) actually boiling. By such means the salt is, no doubt, 
 most effectually abstracted, and the fish thus becomes a 
 i more desirable dish. 
 
 ( Salt fish should be served up with boiled parsnips beaten 
 fine with butter or cream, and poured over it; egg-sauce 
 must also be invariably sent up with it. Parsnips and red 
 i beet-root are often its vegetable accompaniments. But per- 
 haps egg-sauce and plain vinegar will be found, with a 
 : simple potatoe, the best coadjutors to this after all, in itself, 
 but ordinary food. It is a bad sign when any article de- 
 
 S stined for human subsistence requires so much trouble, or 
 li many condiments to make it even palatable. 
 
 SOLES, after being skinned, gutted, and otherwise 
 cleansed, must be boiled in water with a portion of salt, for 
 five minutes, or more, according to their size. They should 
 be put into the water cold. Garnish with sliced lemon and 
 curled parsley, fried smelts, and oysters. Send them up 
 wdth anchovy sauce and plain butter. 
 
 A sole is sometimes boiled in w'hite wine, with the accom- 
 ! paniments of sweet herbs, onions, pepper, salt, mace, and 
 lemon cut into slices; but it is an expensive dish, worthy 
 i only the notice of a gourmand. 
 
 A CARP, being scaled, cleansed, the roe taken care of, 
 < and all the blood saved, should be put into boiling water, to 
 : which add half a pint of vinegar, four ounces of salt, and 
 li 1 some horse-radish. If the carp be large, it will take an 
 : hour’s boiling. Take the liver clean from the guts, three 
 anchovies, a little parsley, thyme, and an onion; chop them 
 small; take also half a pint of Rhenish wine, four spoonsful 
 of vinegar, and the blood of the carp ; stew all these gently 
 j together for a quarter of an hour; then strain the liquor off 
 
16 
 
 BOILING.—FISH. 
 
 for sauce, which thicken with butter rolled in flour. Serve 
 up the fish with the sauce poured over it. Garnish with 
 the roe fried and horse-radish and lemon. 
 
 Or the carp may be boiled in water and vinegar, with salt, 
 and served up without the above sauce; but, instead, par¬ 
 sley and butter may be sent up in a boat: or the blood and 
 wine may be omitted, neither of them, perhaps, very neces¬ 
 sary, and a sauce made of the remaining ingredients. 
 
 A TROUT is boiled in water and vinegar, with salt and 
 horse-radish. A few minutes will be sufficient, unless it is 
 large. Serve it up with white sauce, anchovy sauce, and 
 plain butter. 
 
 A PIKE, or JACK, as it is sometimes called, is most 
 commonly baked; but it "may be boiled thus: being freed 
 from the guts and gills, and well washed, care being taken 
 not to cut the belly quite open, in order that it may contain 
 the stuffing; make a forced-meat of chopped oysters, the 
 crumb of half a penny loaf, a little lemon-peel shred fine, 
 four ounces of butter, (some use cream,) the yolk of two or 
 more eggs, a few sweet herbs, and season with salt, pepper, 
 and nutmeg. These being well mixed together, put them 
 into the belly of the fish, which must be sewed and skewered 
 round. Put now the fish into boiling water, to which add 
 a teacup of vinegar and a little salt. A middle-sized fish, 
 that is, of two or three pounds, will require about half an 
 hour’s boiling. Serve it up with oyster-sauce in a boat, 
 having poured a little over the fish. Garnish with pickled 
 barberries and walnuts ; melted butter of course. 
 
 The fish may be boiled without the forced-meat, if it be 
 so preferred ; and, indeed, unsophisticated taste would thus 
 prefer it. 
 
 A MULLET is boiled like a salmon; but as it is a small 
 fish, it requires a few minutes only; fifteen will be sufficient 
 for a large one. It is served up with shrimp or oyster sauce. 
 
 A MACKAREL, being freed from the entrails and 
 cleansed, must be rubbed with vinegar and salt. When 
 the water boils, put in the fish, to wdiich add a little 
 salt: fifteen minutes will be sufficient for one of a moderate 
 size. Serve it up with fennel and parsley chopped, and 
 mixed with melted butter; gooseberry-sauce is sometimes 
 added. Garnish with horse-radish and barberries, or rather 
 little lumps of minced fennel. 
 
BOILING.-FISH. 
 
 17 
 
 A JOHN DORY being a choice fish, particular care 
 should be taken in dressing it. Let it be put into cold 
 water, to which add a little salt and vinegar; when it 
 begins to boil, put in some cold water, and when it begins 
 to boil again add a little more; then let it simmer for a 
 few minutes and it will be done; or it may be boiled like 
 turbot, which see. Serve it up with lobster sauce and 
 melted butter. 
 
 HERRINGS being gutted, cleansed, and dried, rub 
 them over with a little salt and vinegar. Skewer their 
 tails in their mouths and put them into boiling water; in 
 about ten minutes they will be done. Serve them up with 
 melted butter and parsley. 
 
 FLOUNDERS, PLAICE, DABS, and OTHER 
 FLAT FISH being freed from the fins, gutted, and well 
 cleansed, the brown side nicked under the head, are dried 
 .in a cloth, and then immersed in boiling water, having a 
 small portion of salt in it. Some salt them inside and out 
 after they are cleaned, and let them lie two hours before 
 they are dressed. 
 
 Kitchener orders the fish to be put into cold water; 
 but we see no necessity for this, The time of boiling must 
 be regulated by the size of the fish: a few minutes will be 
 sufficient for most of this kind; when the fins pull out 
 easily they are done. Serve them up with gravy or shrimp 
 sauce or plain melted butter, adding 1 , of course, at pleasure, 
 catchup or cayenne pepper; this last, when pure, is one of 
 the most wholesome condiments for fsh generally. Gar- 
 | nish with red cabbage. 
 
 PERCH AND TENCH, being gutted and cleansed, 
 must be put into cold water, to which add some salt: a few 
 minutes, ten in general, suffice to boil them. Let them be 
 served up with melted butter and soy or anchovy sauce. 
 Garnish with lemon and horse-radish. 
 
 A STURGEON, being properly cleaned, or any part 
 of it, boil it in a liquor prepared in the following manner, 
 and in a greater or less quantity in proportion to the size 
 of the fish, but sufficient to cover it when in the fish-kettle. 
 Take half a gallon of water and one pint of vinegar; put 
 into this liquor two or three bits of lemon peel, some whole 
 pepper, and a stick of horse-radish cut into thick slices. 
 Put your fish into this liquor when it boils; when the bones 
 
 I 
 
18 
 
 BOILING.—FISH. 
 
 separate readily from the fish it is done; let now the skin 
 be taken off, and serve it up with melted butter having 
 cavear dissolved in it, or with anchovy sauce; the contents 
 of the body of a crab must also be bruised and warmed up 
 with the butter, or else a few shrimps or cray-fisli; add 
 also a little lemon juice. Garnish with fried oysters, sliced 
 lemon, and horse-radish. 
 
 Note, that some direct the sturgeon, after it is cleaned, 
 to lie in water, having a portion of salt in it, for one night, 
 and then to be rubbed well with vinegar before it is boiled. 
 This may be useful for a large fish ; but is not necessary 
 for a small one or for small pieces of it. 
 
 We give the above directions for boiling sturgeon, but it 
 is more commonly prepared for food by being broiled .— 
 See Broiling. 
 
 A HADDOCK wall be a better dish, if, after being 
 gutted and cleansed, it lie in salt for a few hours. It 
 should be boiled in water with salt, as directed under Cod. 
 One of three pounds’ weight will require about ten minutes 
 boiling. Serve with plain butter; cayenne pepper and 
 catchup will also make it more savoury. Anchovy sauce 
 is no mean adjunct in the estimation of the luxurious. 
 Vinegar is a much more wholesome condiment. 
 
 WHITINGS AND CODLINGS require similar treat¬ 
 ment as the haddock; but a few minutes will be sufficient 
 for whiting, which requires the least boiling of any fish. 
 The same condiments as the haddock, to which may be 
 added oyster sauce, if desired. Codlings are a very excel¬ 
 lent and nutritious dish. 
 
 SKATE, THORNBACK, and MAIDS, after being 
 gutted, and cleansed, should hang at least one day before : 
 they are dressed; some indeed recommend their being kept 
 in cold weather two or three days. They may be then 
 boiled in water with salt; a quarter of an hour will be in 
 general sufficient for a moderately sized fish; or they may 
 be cut in long slips crosswise an inch broad and then 
 boiled; if in this state, they will take much less time. 
 But the best way of dressing these fish is either to broil or 
 fry them. Serve them up with anchovy sauce and plain butter. 
 
 EELS, being killed by dividing the bone just below the 
 head and afterwards skinned and gutted, and the heads 
 cut off, must be boiled in water with a little salt. When 
 
DRESSING TURTLE. 
 
 19 
 
 they begin to crack they are done. Serve them up with 
 parsley and butter. The liquor in which eels are boiled, 
 is an excellent broth, and should not by the economist be 
 thrown away. 
 
 OYSTERS may be boiled in water with salt for a few 
 minutes. They may be served in the shells. 
 
 A TURTLE,* of thirty pounds, requires the following 
 treatment. It must be killed the night before it is dressed 
 by cutting off the head. After it has bled two or three 
 hours, cut off the fins and separate the under shell 
 (the callipee) from the upper shell (the cullipash); in 
 doing this be careful not to break the gall-bladder. Throw 
 all the entrails into cold water, keeping the guts and tripe 
 by themselves; both these must be opened with a pen¬ 
 knife ; wash them clean in scalding water, scrape off all 
 the inward skin, and throw them into cold water. Wash 
 them again, and put them into fresh water, and let them 
 lie in it all night. Scald the fins and the edges of the 
 callipee and callipasb. Take the meat off the shoulders 
 and break the bones; set those over a fire, with the fins, in 
 about a quart of water, into which put a little salt, cayenne 
 pepper, mace, , and nutmeg. After stewing three hours 
 strain it and put the fins by for use. The next morning 
 chop some of the meat cut off the shoulders, with a pound 
 of beef or veal suet, season these with salt, cayenne, 
 parsley, sweet marjoram, mace, nutmeg, and half a pint 
 - of Madeira 1 ine. Stuff this under the fleshy part of the 
 meat, and, if any be left, lay it over to prevent the meat’s 
 burning. Cut the remainder of the meat and fins into 
 pieces about the size of an egg, and season it with salt, 
 cayenne, and nutmeg; put it into the callipash and take 
 1 ; care that it is properly sewed and secured at the end, that 
 81 the gravy may not escape. Take now the gravy prepared 
 as directed above, make it boiling hot, adding to it wine 
 ou please, and thicken it with a little flour and butter. 
 Put some of it to the turtle, which, having a well-buttered 
 118 paper over it to keep it from burning, must now be placed 
 in an oven. When it is about half baked squeeze in the 
 to juice of one or two lemons and stir it about. Two hours 
 tl 
 ad 
 M 
 
 * For a short history and other particulars of this animal see 
 the Introduction. 
 
20 BOILING.-—MOCK TURTLE, 
 
 will bake the eallipee, but the callipash will require three. 
 Cut the guts in pieces two or three inches long, the tripe in 
 less ; put them into a little water and set them in the oven 
 with the callipash. When done enough, drain them from 
 the water and mix them with the other parts. Serve the 
 whole up as hot as possible. 
 
 Other methods of dressing turtle are described in the 
 different cookery books ; there is, indeed, scarcely any end 
 to the varieties of dressing this animal; much depends 
 upon its size. Of one method, however, called 
 
 The West-Indian method, it is necessary to observe that 
 in this the following directions are given. The night 
 before you intend to dress the turtle, take it out of the 
 water and lay it on its back. In the morning cut the 
 head off, and let it bleed freely ; then cut off the fins; 
 scald, scale, and trim them and the head, and raise the 
 eallipee ; clean it well leaving on as much meat as you can. 
 Take from the callipash all the meat and entrails, except 
 the fat which looks green and is called monsieur: this 
 must also be baked with the shell. If you find any eggs 
 boil and clean them; but if you do not, get twelve or four¬ 
 teen yolks of hard eggs; then put the stew (which is the 
 callipash) into the shell with the eggs, and make use of a 
 salamander or put it into the oven to bake. The lights, 
 heart, and liver, are also directed to be stewed with the 
 callipash. 
 
 It is not necessary that we should detail this West- 
 Indian method further. But we may just observe that 
 the turtle-soup must be served in a tureen; the eallipee 
 be placed at the head of the turtle and the callipash at the 
 bottom ; place the lights, soup, fins, &c. in the middle. 
 
 MOCK TURTLE.—-There are several ways of preparing 
 this dish; the following, although not the most simple, is, 
 we believe, the best, and therefore it is here given; if a 
 more simple dish be desired the ingenuity of the cook will 
 readily contrive it. 
 
 Put a large calf’s head into scalding water, and let it re¬ 
 main there till the hair will come readily off. Cut the head 
 in half and clean it in warm water ; then boil it for about 
 three-quarters of an hour; take all the meat and skin from 
 the bone as clean as possible, and be careful that you do not 
 
21 
 
 BOILING. — MOCK TURTLE, EGGS. 
 
 break the ears; take out also the brain and set it by to be 
 used as hereinfter directed. Lay all the meat on a Hat dish; 
 stuff the ears with force-meat and tie them round with 
 cloths. Take out the eyes, and pick all the meat clean 
 from the bones; put it into a tossing’-pan -with the nicest 
 and fattest part of another calf’s head without the skin, 
 
 ; boiled as long as the above, and three quarts of veal gravy. 
 Lay the skin in the pan on the meat with the flesh-side up, 
 then cover the pan close and let it stew one hour over a 
 moderate fire. Put in three sweetbreads, fried to a white 
 brown, an ounce each of morels, and truffles, five artichoke 
 bottoms boiled, an anchovy boned and chopped small, a 
 small quantity of cayenne, a little salt, half a lemon, three 
 pints of madeira wine, two spoonfuls of mushroom catchup, 
 one of lemon-pickle, half-a-pint of mushrooms, and stew all 
 slowly half an hour more ; thicken it with flour and butter. 
 Take now the yolk of four eggs boiled hard, and the brains 
 of both heads previously boiled ; cut the brains into pieces 
 of the size of nutmegs; make a rich forcemeat and spread 
 it on the caul of a leg of veal; roll it up in a cloth and boil 
 ; it one hour, and then cut it into three parts, the middle to 
 * be the largest. Put the meat into the dish and lay the 
 : head over it, the skin-side up. Place the largest piece of 
 I forcemeat between the ears and make the top of the ears to 
 meet round it, in which state it is called the crown of the 
 turtle. Lay the other slices of the forcemeat at the narrow 
 end opposite to each other and lay a few of the artichoke 
 bottoms, eggs, mushrooms, brains, morels and truffles upon 
 the face and round it. Strain the gravy boiling hot upon it, 
 and (as it soon grows cold) be as quick as possible in dish¬ 
 ing it up. 
 
 A much cheaper dish than this may be made with two or 
 three cow-heels baked with two pounds and a half of gravy 
 |; beef, herbs, &c. 
 
 To the preceding Directions for Boiling we may add 
 the following concerning Eggs, Suet, &c. The cook will 
 have occasion in the course of her practice frequently to 
 refer to them. 
 
 EGGS require various times for being boiled, accordant 
 with their size and kind ; duck and goose eggs, being larger 
 than hens' eggs, will of course, require more time, pullets' 
 
BOILING.— EGGS. 
 
 22 
 
 eggs being smaller than those of the hen, require less. 
 Duck and goose eggs, as well as some others of the bird 
 tribe, are of a stronger taste and consequently not so deli¬ 
 cate as those of the hen ; but it is a remarkable fact, as far 
 as hitherto the eggs of birds are knowrn, not one of any of 
 the tribe is absolutely unwholesome. As, however, when 
 we speak of eggs we usually mean hens' eggs, we may state 
 that the time of boiling eggs, in the shell, must vary with 
 the taste of the person desiring them; some choose them 
 boiled (they should always be put in when the water is 
 boiling) only two minutes ; others three or four; some will 
 have them boil even five minutes; but this last period 
 makes both the yolk and white less suitable for the stomach: 
 perhaps three minutes and a half will be the most agree¬ 
 able to the generality of persons. If for salads, an egg 
 may be boiled five minutes, or even more ; but all hard 
 boiled eggs are more or less unwholesome even in salads. 
 No wonder therefore that our gourmands complain now and 
 then of indigestion ! The Italian addition of oil to salads 
 is to be preferred to the hard boiled egg. 
 
 POACHED EGGS.—Your water being boiling, or rather 
 simmering in a stewpan, slip in carefully each egg previously 
 obtained from the shell and poured into a tea-cup, preserv¬ 
 ing the yolk undisturbed; when the white is coagulated, 
 which it will be in about two, or at most, three minutes, 
 they are done. They may be served up in various ways: 
 on bread slightly toasted or spinach is the most common. 
 The bread should be cut into squares and an egg placed on 
 each; the spinach after being boiled must be pressed and 
 cut into triangular pieces, upon one of each an egg must be 
 placed. Melted butter in a boat of course. You may gar¬ 
 nish if you please with fried or boiled bacon, or pork sau¬ 
 sages. 
 
 Note that this is, we believe, the most wholesome method 
 of dressing eggs, next to that of beating a raw one up 
 with a glass of good madeira and a little sugar. 
 
 To PURIFY SUET, LARD, MARROW, DRIPPING, 
 BUTTER, and other FAT.—The suet or marrow being 
 separated as much as possible from the membranes and 
 blood-vessels, and afterwards well washed, must be cut into 
 small pieces ; indeed, if chopped fine it will be better ; put 
 
METHODS OF PURIFYING SUET, LARD, &C. 23 
 
 it into a saucepan or stewpan with some water and set it 
 over a slow fire to boil for an hour or more, when the water 
 will be nearly evaporated; the additional heat applied to 
 the fat in consequence of the evaporation of the water will 
 cause a separation of the membranes from it. 
 
 Note, the water is employed to moderate the heat, as, 
 while any remains, the fat does not become hotter than the 
 heat of boiling 1 water, namely, the degree of 212 of Fahren¬ 
 heit’s thermometer; care must, therefore, be taken that the 
 heat administered to the fat, after the evaporation of the 
 water, be not too great, nor continued too long, or a burnt 
 taste will be communicated to it: it is necessary, however, 
 that, for a short time at least, more heat should be applied 
 to the fat than that of boiling water, or the membranes 
 will be incompletely detached. Large quantities will re¬ 
 quire more time than above specified. 
 
 Note, the above process may be applied equally to beef, 
 mutton, deer suet, marrow,* and lard, as well as indeed to 
 all animal fat involved in membranes: marrow will require 
 more water than the rest and less heat. But— 
 
 DRIPPING and other melted fats require another pro¬ 
 cess of purification. Dripping in particular has ahvays 
 more or less impurity attached to it, which simple melting 
 and boiling in water, with skimming off what impurities 
 arise to the surface during the boiling, will generally re¬ 
 move. After which it must be set by with the water in a 
 proper vessel to cool; when cold, it may be readily detached 
 from the water and impurities beneath. 
 
 FRESH BUTTER may be freed from most of the 
 butter-milk, &c. which it contains, by subjecting it to a 
 heat of about that of boiling water in a proper vessel, that 
 is, in a water-bath, for three, four, or more hours ; it must 
 be then suffered to cool, and when cold it must be taken 
 out; the chief of its impurities will be found at the bottom 
 
 3 
 
 * Marrow, instead of being treated as above directed, is sometimes 
 ordered to be broken into pieces, and soaked in water for ten days 
 successively, changing the water every day ; and then used for the 
 purposes for which it may be wanted : this has been particularly 
 ordered by those benevolent Lady Bountifuls who formerly gave us 
 directions for the preparation of Pomade Divine. But this operose 
 manipulation is not necessary. See our Chapter on Gruels, &c. 
 
 
24 
 
 METHOD OF PURIFYING BUTTER. 
 
 of the vessel; another small portion of them in a sort of 
 froth at the top; both must be separated from the hard 
 butter which now assumes the appearance of a yellowish 
 soft suet, and will be found more applicable to the pur¬ 
 poses of frying than fresh butter. We shall have occasion 
 to revert to this under the term of Clarified Butter. 
 
 Note .—Instead of the heat of a water-bath, that of an 
 oven (when moderate) or even the hob of a fire-place 
 may be employed ; but it must be continued for some 
 hours. 
 
 SALT BUTTER may be freed from a considerable por¬ 
 tion of its salt by boiling- with water as directed for drip¬ 
 ping ; but care must be taken to employ not only a good 
 deal of water but a gentle heat. It is to be lamented how¬ 
 ever that no process hitherto discovered will restore the par¬ 
 ticular and beautiful taste which fresh butter has when it 
 has once lost it. The chemists indeed recommend its being 
 treated with rectified spirit of wine; but this is so expen¬ 
 sive that nobody thinks of using it; and, besides, we do not 
 believe that any process whatever will completely restore 
 the delicate taste of good fresh butter when once it is lost. 
 
 Instead of the processes above directed for the purifica¬ 
 tion of suet, &c. some order it to be cut in pieces, placed in 
 a jar, and submitted for some hours to the low heat of an il 
 oven or a stove; but this method is tedious ; and the uncer¬ 
 tain application of the heat must always render it unde¬ 
 sirable, more especially when the other methods above 
 directed are at once simple and obvious; in the large way 
 it would be quite impossible to practice it, as in the purifi¬ 
 cation of lard for example. 
 
 
 
25 
 
 CHAPTER II. 
 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 In this department of our state, 
 
 At early morn, at dinner late. 
 
 That Soups and Broths be made the best. 
 Be this upon you well impress’d ; 
 
 Of numerous condiments beware, 
 However costly, rich, or rare ; 
 
 Simplicity aye keep in view. 
 
 And honours will attend on you. 
 
 General Observations.— In the preparation of 
 bours some of the observations under Boiling must be 
 attended to, which need not be here repeated. All soups 
 should be closely covered during their boiling, by which the 
 iheat will be very much economized. There might be, how¬ 
 ever, occasionally some deviations from this course ’which 
 must depend upon the discretion of the cook. In makino- 
 soups and broths stale as well as fat meat should be avoided* 
 the nrst will impart an ill taste, and the last will be attended 
 with considerable waste. Where, however, it is desired to 
 retain the fat in the soup and yet prevent its floating upon 
 he surface, a teacup-full of flour and water well mixed and 
 boiled up with the soup will make the dish more sio-htly • 
 mt what is said in a preceding note concerning flour in 
 nelted butter should be attended to in the making of soups * 
 nstead of flour a pure starch for thickening soups if 
 dnckening be desired, is much better and more wholesome, 
 the best meat soups are beyond question those which are 
 nade from the lean alone without much if any fat. 
 
 In making pease soup with dry pease soft water should 
 
 I ^ secl > Wlth green pease hard water, which contributes 
 P the preservation of their colour. 
 
 The time required for the preparation of soups by boilino- 
 ■anes ; but, in general, three hours or more will be neces- 
 ary ; six hours may, sometimes, not be too much. 
 
 A soup should never be permitted to grow cold in the 
 essel in which it has been boiled. lEnot immediately 
 
 
26 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 wanted it should be poured out into a clean pan ; one made 
 of stone-ware is the best, as neither salt nor acids wdl act 
 upon it, a consideration of essential importance in all cookery. 
 While cooling the soup should not be covered over; nor 
 indeed is it desirable to cover soup after it is cold, except 
 with a hair sieve. 
 
 As long boiling is necessary to make good soup, particu¬ 
 larly where the whole or the greater part of the virtues of 
 butchers’ meat are to be extracted, it will be necessaiy to 
 add more water from time to time as it boils away; and, in 
 order to save time, it will he best to add the water boiling or, 
 at least, very hot to the soup. In the addition of herbs, 
 other vegetables or condiments, care should be taken that 
 they are in such quantities that no one may predominate, 
 unless, as is sometimes the case with celery or onion, it is 
 
 desired to be so. J 
 
 As celery is so generally used to flavour soups the cook 
 should know that, when the root is scarce, the seeds, bruised 
 and added to the soup a few minutes only before it is served 
 up will flavour it very elegantly ; indeed the seeds will be 
 generally found superior to the root for the purpose of 
 flavour. It should not be forgotten however that boiling the 
 seeds for a long time will dissipate their essential oil on 
 which their flavour chiefly depends. This observation ap¬ 
 plies with equal force to all the spices, the long boiling of 
 which in open vessels must necessarily dissipate theii oils in 
 which their good qualities reside: indeed sometimes a few 
 drops of their essential oil, as of cinnamon or cassia, will j 
 supply very elegantly the place of the spice itself. The 
 same may be said also of horse-radish root, a very whole¬ 
 some condiment, and not so often employed in soups and \ 
 other cookery as it deserves to be ; we have particularly di- 
 rected it in pease soup ; the best way to impart its virtues 
 to which and other boiled dishes is to cut it into smal 
 shavings and boil it for a short time with the soup, jusi 
 before it is ready to be served up. 
 
 When spices are directed to be employed, cloves, mace 
 cinnamon, cassia, nutmegs, and sometimes allspice are in¬ 
 cluded ; pepper is usually mentioned separately; so also if 
 cayenne pepper, ■which to fish in particular, when to be ob 
 tained genuine, is an excellent addition; of ginger on 
 
SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 27 
 
 cooks and cookery-books seem to be sparine- • but added to 
 
 be a W , aube t tT r - b ' lteS ‘,° theh ' whole “ m ° "o® ; it should 
 is ST at * be . tabIe ln P° wder similarly to black pepper- it 
 
 puddlrlm to d in f ding " aTOUr t0 »PPl« P« and 
 
 subm l’i theSait ou 8' ht to be added before they are 
 
 submitted to heat. We shall refer to these observations in 
 the subsequent portions of our work. nervations m 
 
 cernW^l t0 Broths ^ ome of th e general directions con¬ 
 cerning Boding must be carefully attended to, as well as 
 
 Broth™ 6 h S °“° nS ° n the P re P ara tion of soups. 
 
 ofanySno-^b w the pieces of meat and 
 
 meat and f ’ ft ^ the Water to the quantity of 
 
 tTe men^h y iA U R ! nt b ° lhn §‘- T ° make the broth good 
 
 separate whb t r* ^ Ied m ifc is tender and will 
 as P u-oll ?; h T difficulty from the bones. In every case 
 
 least boilfno- h T 01 S ° Up ’ ? ° rder to obtain them with the’ 
 sho ,£ S \ 1 COnse( l uentl 7 m °st economically, the meat 
 shou d be cut into small pieces, the bones, if laiS broken 
 and the joints, such as those in a neck of mutton separated’ 
 
 : "Jjjf 8 tbe meat ^ wanted to be served up with the broth or 
 
 l h ™ " ! Wh ° leh “ alS0 advisable to us 
 pJent) of water, and to let it escape durino- the boilino-- 
 
 tained tU6 R °rt th ® mea „ wi11 be tbus most effectually ob- 
 l?° d - Broths as well as soups should be frequently 
 skimmed during their boiling. ^ 
 
 oatm°e r d COn T iCal pUrp ° SeS br0th is generally thickened with 
 oatmeal, and sometimes milk is added to if but a more 
 
 elegant method is to thicken it with rice, Scotch or pearl 
 
 brotlf’ °ffi a - C, T t °! breafL Tbese shouId be boiled in the 
 broth sufficiently long to be tender: they are sometimes 
 
 e Brod ls til' 6aten r h , the br ° th With0ut bein g strained. 
 Broths are flavoured with various things: parsley is one 
 
 of the most common; leeks, onions, petals of mario-old- 
 
 iThe^V M ( ! b r n , ie bave also tbeir advocates; salt of course 
 
 bm hTvt • ehght ", " 1Ump ° f Cheese Solved in the 
 Drotn when it is served up! 
 
 is waited th if be r t ] b | y t0 ° f o1 after bcing before it 
 
 nted, it should not be covered during; its coolino- • 
 
 fullTtak A ’ t ff ma p e ^ r e de!icate tbe fat should be care- 
 y aken ofl. _ For the implements to be employed in 
 
 making soups and broths, see the Introduction. 
 
 c 2 
 
28 
 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 These general directions will be sufficient for the making 
 of any soups or broths : a few forms of some of the most 
 useful we shall notwithstanding give. 
 
 Colour for Soups and Sauces, sometimes called 
 Browning. — We give the following, not because we 
 approve of it, but because there is a silly fashion of giving 
 to soups and gravies a colour which they do not naturally 
 possess: burnt sugar cannot add to the wholesomeness of any 
 food ; it may be and is, no doubt, sometimes injurious to it. 
 
 Put four ounces of fine raw sugar, or if you choose 
 powdered lump sugar, into a frying-pan with two ounces 
 of water ; set the pan on a slow fire, and stir the mixture 
 with a wooden spoon till it becomes of a dark colour; skim 
 it during the boiling ; strain it and put it by for use. To 
 this is sometimes added port wine, butter, spices of various 
 kinds, shalots, catchup, salt, and the whole rind of one 
 lemon ! ! 
 
 BEEF STOCK. —Take lean beef, cut it in pieces, 
 put it into a stewpan, and set it on the fire with water 
 enough to cover it; add to it some parsley, thyme, scraped 
 carrots, onions, a turnip, celery, and a little salt. Boil 
 till the meat is tender, taking care to skim it well durino- 
 the boiling ; lastly, skim off the fat and strain the stock 
 through a fine hair sieve. 
 
 VEAL STOCK. —Take a knuckle of veal, a pound of 
 lean ham, or of a gammon of bacon ; let them be cut in 
 small pieces, and boiled with two or three scraped carrots, 
 a turnip, some celery, and onions sliced in two quarts of 
 water, till the meat is nearly done; then add of beef stock 
 enough to cover the whole, which boil for half an hour 
 more; skim off the fat carefully and strain. 
 
 CLEAR BROWN STOCK.— To three quarts of veal I 
 stock add a small quantity of the colour for soups, de¬ 
 scribed above ; season it with salt and a little cayenne; 
 beat up two eggs with their shells ; mix the whole -well 
 together; boil it gently for ten minutes, and strain it 
 through a fine cloth. 
 
 TURTLE SOUP. — We give no form for the preparation 
 of this soup, because it is essentially that for the- dressing 
 of turtle, to which, therefore, under Boiling, page 19, the 
 reader will of course refer. 
 
 
SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 29 
 
 MOCK TURTLE SOUP.—A form for the preparation 
 of this is here not given for the same reason as that in the 
 preceding - article. The reader will, therefore, refer to 
 Mock Turtle, page 20. 
 
 WHITE VERMICELLI SOUP.—Boil for fifteen mi¬ 
 nutes three quarts of veal stock with two ounces of vermi¬ 
 celli, and then rub it through a fine cloth ; season it with 
 salt, and add the yolks of four eggs and half a pint of 
 cream mixed well together. Simmer for five minutes and 
 serve it. 
 
 Observe here, that the yolks of eggs, how nutricious 
 soever they may be, contain a considerable quantity of 
 sulphur ; and that in many stomachs, after being eaten, a 
 quantity of sulphuretted hydrogen gas becomes disengaged, 
 producing distention and other unpleasant consequences. 
 No wonder, therefore, that such made dishes lead many 
 dyspeptic consequences in their train; and no wonder that 
 the luxurious are often unwell after feeding on such fare; 
 the simplicities of nature cannot be thus infringed upon 
 with impunity. We shall have occasion to refer to this 
 observation more than once in the progress of our work.— 
 See the Family Cyclopedia, page xii. J. J. 
 
 WHITE SOUP.—Put a knuckle of veal, with a large 
 fowl, a pound of lean bacon, half a pound of rice, a few 
 pepper-corns, a bundle of sweet herbs, two or three onions, 
 and three or four heads of celery sliced, into six quarts of 
 water, and stew them till the soup is as strong as you wish; 
 strain it through a hair sieve into an earthen pan; let it 
 stand all night; the next day put it into a stew-pan, to 
 which add half a pound of sweet almonds, first blanched 
 and beaten fine ; boil for a quarter of an hour, and again 
 ! strain it through a hair sieve ; lastly, put in a pint of 
 ! cream, the yolk of one egg, and stir all together; let it 
 boil a few minutes, when it may be served up. 
 
 Observe , that the cream here, as in the preceding soup, 
 j contributes both to the whiteness and richness of the soup; 
 but, on the score of wholesomeness, it, as well as the egg, 
 is a questionable ingredient. 
 
 GRAVY SOUP. Boil a shin of beef, the bone being 
 | well chopped, a pint of peas, and six onions, in six quarts 
 1 of water, till all the soluble parts of the meat be extracted ; 
 
30 
 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 then strain it off, and add to it a quart of strong gravy; for 
 which see our Chapter on Sauces, Gravies, &c. Season it 
 with pepper and salt, and put in a little celery and 
 beet-leaves; boil till the vegetables are tender, and it is 
 done. 
 
 OX-CHEEK SOUP. The bones being broken and the 
 cheek washed thoroughly clean, put it into a stewpan with 
 about two ounces of butter at the bottom, laying the fleshy 
 side of the cheek downwards. Add also^half a pound of 
 lean ham sliced, four heads of celery cut small, three large 
 onions, two carrots, and one parsnip, all sliced, and three 
 blades of mace. Set them over a moderate fire for about 
 fifteen minutes; after which put in four quarts of water 
 and let it simmer gently till reduced to two. If this is to be 
 used as soup only, strain it off, and put in the white part of 
 a head of celery cut into small pieces, with a little browning 
 to give it a good colour. Lastly, scald two ounces of ver¬ 
 micelli, put it into the soup, boil for about ten minutes, and 
 then pour it into a tureen, with the crust of a French roll, 
 and serve it up. 
 
 If it be used as a stew, take up the cheek as whole as pos¬ 
 sible, and have ready a boiled turnip and a carrot cut into 
 square pieces, some bread toasted and cut into small dice; 
 add a little cayenne; strain the soup through a hair sieve 
 upon the meat, and serve it up. 
 
 Observe, that this soup, besides being more simple, 
 would be more w'holesome wdthout the ham, the browning , 
 or the vermicelli; of course, its flavour, by the abstraction 
 of these, will be altered. 
 
 MACARONI SOUP. Take half a pound of small pipe 
 macaroni and boil it in three quarts of water, till it is tender; 
 strain the water off and cut the macaroni into pieces of about 
 two inches long. Mix now three quarts of strong broth and 
 one of gravy together, into which put the macaroni, and 
 boil for ten minutes; put the crust of a French roll baked 
 into the tureen, and pour the soup on it. Some add cream 
 and grated Parmesan cheese to this, perhaps, somewhat 
 un-English dish. 
 
 PEASE SOUP. To the liquor in which eitherpork or beef 
 has been boiled add whole or split peas, in the proportion of 
 one pint to half a gallon of the liquor, some roast beef bones, 
 
SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 31 
 
 and a little lean bacon ; simmer the whole together till the 
 peas can be passed through a colander with the assistance of 
 a wooden spoon. This being done, add a stick of celery, or 
 of horse-radish, or of both, cut into pieces, a carrot or two, 
 a turnip, salt and pepper. Boil gently till all is become 
 tender. Serve it up poured upon fried or toasted bread cut 
 into dice. When the peas boil well, some economical per¬ 
 sons do not strain this soup. 
 
 A still richer soup may he made by using lean beef cut 
 into pieces, in place of the pot-liquor and hones ; to the beef 
 some add ham and veal and pickled pork. Note, that 
 horse-radish is an excellent and wholesome condiment, and 
 maybe used in pease-soup with advantage. 
 
 If no pork or beef liquor can be obtained, the peas must, 
 
 J of course, be boiled in pure water; but the soup will not be 
 so good. 
 
 GREEN PEASE SOUP. When you shell your peas, 
 separate the young from the old. Boil a pint and a half of 
 the old ones in water till they are tender ; pour off the liquor 
 and reserve it; beat the boiled peas to a mash, and then 
 put them into two quarts of the reserved liquor. Boil also 
 half a pint of the young peas in water till they are soft. 
 Mix the water and peas thus boiled with the preceding, stir 
 all together and boil for a few minutes. Lastly, rub it 
 through a hair sieve. 
 
 This will make a good plain green pease soup; it may, 
 of course, be seasoned with various things; such as salt, 
 pepper, celery, onions, spices, and herbs. In order to in¬ 
 crease its greenness, the juice of spinach may be added to it 
 by pounding the leaves and pressing the juice out from a 
 cloth ; but this is a silly addition. Butter is also sometimes 
 added to this soup; to make it richer and more nutritious, 
 instead of boiling the peas in water, they may be boiled in 
 plain veal or mutton broth. 
 
 SOUP MAIGRE. Melt half a pound of butter in a 
 stewpan, shake it, and add six middle-sized onions; shake 
 again for five minutes ; then put in five heads of celery, two 
 handfuls of spinach, a cabbage lettuce, and some parsley, all 
 cut fine. Shake these well in the pan over the fire for a 
 quarter of an hour; then add two quarts of boiling water, 
 some crusts of bread, a teaspoonful of bruised pepper and 
 
32 
 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 three or four blades of mace. Boil gently for an hour ; then 
 beat up the yolks of two eggs, and stir them in adding a 
 spoonful of vinegar. 
 
 A pint of green peas boiled in this soup will be an ex¬ 
 cellent addition to it: or a pint of green peas may be fried, 
 with three ounces of butter, a large onion, a turnip, a 
 carrot, and a head of celery, all sliced, in a stew r pan till they 
 are browned; then pour on them two quarts of boiling water; 
 let the whole simmer till it can be passed through a hair 
 sieve. It may be seasoned at pleasure with celery, pep¬ 
 per, &c. 
 
 Observe what is said in regard to eggs in the directions 
 for making vermicelli soup. 
 
 HARE SOUP. Cut a hare, if old it will answer 
 equally well, into pieces; put it into a mug- with three 
 blades of mace, a little salt, two large onions, a red herring, 
 six morels, a pint of red wine, and three quarts of water; 
 let the whole be closely covered and then baked three hours 
 in a quick oven, after which strain the soup into a tossing- 
 pan. Have ready boiled in water four ounces of pearl- 
 barley or sago; put the liver of the hare, for two minutes, 
 into scalding water, and then rub it through a hair sieve 
 with a wooden §poon; put it into the soup with the barley 
 or sago, and a quarter of a pound of butter ; set it over the 
 fire and keep it stirring, but do not let it boil. 
 
 Or, instead of baking it, the mug may be placed in a 
 kettle of water, which must be kept boiling for three hours. 
 The red wine may, if you choose, be omitted, and a pound 
 of lean beef cut in pieces be added instead, which will 
 much improve the nutritious quality of the soup. Lean 
 bacon or ham is also sometimes added to give it flavour; 
 anchovy, soy, and cayenne, may be put in at pleasure. We 
 may add that the red herring may be omitted without dis¬ 
 advantage to the soup, which may be served up with force¬ 
 meat balls in the tureen ; or some crisped bread may be put 
 in the tureen and the soup poured on it. 
 
 In the same manner may be made a soup from rabbits 
 and partridges. Note, that cold roasted hare will also 
 make good soup. 
 
 A CHEAP SOUP. Boil two pounds of lean beef, a 
 few onions, a carrot, a turnip, half a pint of split-peas, a 
 
SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 33 
 
 
 
 nead of celery, and a little pepper, in four quarts of water, 
 for three or more hours. When done, pass the soup through 
 a coarse sieve, then add some dried mint and fried or 
 toasted bread. 
 
 Note , that some will add to the above ingredients a red- 
 herring, which will add to the flavour, but little to its nutri¬ 
 tious properties. 
 
 PORTABLE SOUP. Boil four calves’ feet and a leg 
 of beef in a sufficient quantity of water, for two hours, and 
 during the boiling-, let the skum be taken off; after which 
 let the soup be separated from the meat by straining and 
 pressing ; boil now the meat a second time in another water, 
 adding celery, pepper, &c. as you may choose for flavour. 
 The two decoctions being added together, must now be left 
 to cool, in order that the fat may congeal, and thus be care¬ 
 fully separated. The soup must now be clarifled, b}^ being- 
 mixed with the -whites of six eggs and again boiled; the 
 skum which arises being, of course, taken off. The liquor 
 must then be strained through flannel and boiled down to a 
 thick paste, being constantly stirred during the operation ; 
 after which it must be spread upon smooth stones and then 
 be cut into square cakes. Lastly, let them be dried in a 
 stove till they become brittle; or instead of laying the soup 
 on stones, it may be poured into moulds of any desired form. 
 Any part of beef , veal , or mutton , which contains much 
 gelatine, may be used for this soup. When it is to be 
 used, dissolve it in boiling water, and add, at pleasure, salt 
 and other seasoning. 
 
 Observe, that it is not desirable to employ any salt in 
 the making of this soup, as salt absorbs moisture from the 
 air, and would, if added to it, render it liable to g-et soft, 
 and more likely to spoil; it should be kept as dry and hard 
 as possible. 
 
 GIBLET-SOUP is made by stewing- duck or goose gib¬ 
 lets in veal stock, adding onions, herbs, pepper, mace, &c. 
 The bones should be broken, the neck and gizzard cut in 
 pieces, and the heads split in two. They must be stewed 
 till quite tender, and be served up with egg and force-meat 
 balls. Or the giblets may be boiled in water till tender, 
 and the soup be thickened with flour and butter ; add to 
 the soup a glass of wine and a tablespoonful of catchup,. 
 
 c 3 
 
34 
 
 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 Concerning the use of flour, see the note in page 7. 
 
 OX-FEET JELLY AND SOUP. After well washing, 
 slit the ox-heels in two, and remove the fat between the 
 claws; boil them in water in the proportion of one quart 
 to each heel. Six or eight hours will be necessary to extract 
 all the gelatine; and if, during the boiling, the water 
 becomes much diminished, more hot w’ater should be added 
 to it ; it should be well skimmed during the operation. 
 Strain for use. One ox-heel will make a pint and half of 
 jelly ; it may be used for various purposes. Or it may be 
 made with proper seasonings into ox-heel soup. 
 
 Note, that care should be taken in obtaining the heels 
 that the jelly has not been already extracted from them : 
 those to be obtained at the tripe-shops cannot be always 
 recommended. 
 
 OX-TAIL-SOUP is made in the same manner as the 
 preceding, taking care, of course, to separate the bones 
 into many portions before submitting them to be boiled. 
 
 GAME-SOUP may be made from cold g-ame of any 
 kind, by breaking the bones, cutting the meat in pieces, 
 and boiling both in broth for an hour or more. It may be 
 thickened with the yolks of eggs and some cream, and 
 seasoned according to your fancy, care being taken that 
 the soup is not boiled after the eggs are mixed with it, as 
 boiling will cause the soup to curdle. See, in regard to 
 the eggs, -what is said under White Vermicelli Soup, 
 page 29. 
 
 STOCK FOR FISH-SOUP. Simmer a pound of 
 skate, four or five flounders, and two eels, -well cleaned 
 but nQt skinned, and all cut into pieces, with a seasoning 
 of i^ace, pepper, salt, and onion, a few cloves, a head of 
 celery, two parsley-roots sliced, and a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, in water sufficient to cover them, for an hour and a 
 half, in a stewpan closely covered ; strain it off for use. 
 Various Jish soups may be made from this as a basis. 
 
 EEL-SOUP. Boil a pound of unskinned eels, the 
 heads being separated from the bodies, which must be 
 cut into short lengths, in a quart of water, with a crust 
 of bread, two or three blades of mace, a little whole 
 pepper, an onion, and a bunch of sweet herbs, in a stew- 
 pan closely covered till they are quite broken ; then strain 
 
SOUDS AND BROTHS. 
 
 35 
 
 off the soup, and pour it, boiling hot, on some toasted 
 bread cut into dice. Cream, butter, and flour are some¬ 
 times added to this soup to improve it; but these, more 
 especially if the soup he designed for invalids and the sick, 
 are unwholesome, and, for such, highly improper. The best 
 and most wholesome condiment for eel-soup, besides salt, is 
 parsley. 
 
 OYSTER-SOUP is made with the preceding fish-stock 
 and the hard part of two quarts of oysters beaten in a 
 mortar with the yolks of ten eggs boiled hard. Simmer 
 them for half an hour; strain the liquor off, and put to it 
 I the remainder of the oysters freed from the beards; simmer 
 ; again for a few minutes, and then add the yolks of six 
 raw eggs well beaten; stir the whole over a moderate fire 
 till it is thick and smooth, taking care that it does not 
 j boil. It may be seasoned with pepper, salt, &c. at 
 :| pleasure. 
 
 Note, that this is a most unwholesome dish; and, al¬ 
 though it may be occasionally demanded by the luxurious. 
 
 Boil half a hundred craw-fisb 
 pounded, the meat of a hen lobster, the spawn of a lobster, 
 and the crumb of four penny French rolls in three quarts 
 jj of fish-stock for an hour; skim, and then rub it through a 
 : fine cloth; season with cayenne, salt, &c. There are 
 several other ways of preparing this soup, but this is by 
 far the simplest. 
 
 LOBSTER-SOUP. Take the meat from three fresh 
 boiled hen lobsters; cut in into small pieces, and crack the 
 claws ; take out the coral and soft part of the body; bruise 
 I: part of the coral in a mortar; pick out the fish from the 
 ;! chines; beat part of it with the coral, and make force-meat 
 j! balls with it; flavour them with nutmeg, a little grated 
 i lemon-peel, anchovy, and cayenne ; pound these with the 
 j yolk of an egg. Boil now the small legs and the chine, 
 both bruised, in three quarts of veal broth for twenty 
 minutes ; strain it, and thicken it thus : bruise the live 
 [ spawn in a mortar wfith a little butter and flour; rub it 
 [j through a sieve, and add it to the soup with the meat of 
 ; the lobsters and the remaining coral; let it simmer gently 
 for ten minutes, but it must not boil. Serve it up in a 
 
 the prudent should avoid it. 
 CRAW-FISH-SOUP. 
 

 36 SOUPS AND BROTHS. 
 
 tureen with the juice of a lemon and some essence of 
 anchovy. 
 
 A CHEAP BROTH MADE IN FIVE MINUTES. 
 Pour boiling water on some sippets of bread, over which 
 has been strewed some parsley, leeks, or other herbs, 
 chopped fine, in a basin; add fresh butter, or cream, and 
 salt at pleasure. 
 
 Note, this is called, in some parts of the country, tea¬ 
 kettle-broth, and is very superior to many broths of more 
 numerous ingredients; of course it is not so nutritious 
 as those obtained from animal substances by boiling. 
 
 SCOTCH-BARLEY-BROTH. Take half a pound of 
 Scotch barley, washed clean in cold water ; put it into a 
 stewpan with a leg of beef weighing about seven pounds, 
 two or three onions, and water sufficient to cover the whole. 
 Boil gently for about one hour and a half, then take off the 
 fat, and put in a head or two of celery, and a turnip, and 
 a carrot cut into pieces; add a seasoning of salt, and boil 
 again one hour or more ; serve it up with pepper or other 
 condiments. 
 
 Note, that this is a cheap soup ; the Scotch barley is 
 much better than flour, too often employed in such dishes. 
 The meat left after the soup is made will also form an 
 excellent dish by the addition of a little sauce, such as 
 mushroom catchup, &c. &c. This broth may also be made 
 with a sheep’s head cut into pieces ; or with six pounds of 
 the lean of any piece of beef. 
 
 MUTTON-BROTH. Boil three pounds of the scrag- 
 end of a neck of mutton, cut into pieces, in three quarts 
 of w-ater for an hour, then add one or two turnips and such 
 seasoning, wfith herbs, &c. as you may choose; boil for 
 half an hour more, and it will be done ; serve up with 
 parsley chopped fine. Some add to this simple, and perhaps 
 the best of mutton-broths, rice, Scotch or pearl barley, or 
 \ grits or oatmeal, mace, &c. If you do not desire the broth 
 
 to taste very strongly, they may be boiled separately, and 
 added to the broth when it is ready. 
 
 VEAL-BROTII. Boil a knuckle or a part of a neck of 
 veal, of three pounds’ weight, with an ounce of rice, in 
 three quarts of water, till they are reduced to three pints; 
 add, towards the end of the boiling, a blade of mace, and 
 such other seasoning as you may desire. 
 
SOUPS AND BROTHS, 
 
 37 
 
 BEEF-BROTH. Boil a leg or shin, or any lean part 
 of beef, if about three pounds, (the bones being broken,) 
 in three quarts of water, for an hour ; then add a turnip, a 
 carrot, an onion, and such seasoning as you please; boil 
 for half an hour longer, and it may be served up. The 
 beef, after this process, will make a very good and whole¬ 
 some dish. 
 
 For Beef-Tea see our Chapter on Gruels, panada, &c. 
 
 CHICKEN-BROTH. Take an old fowl, cut it into 
 pieces, and remove all the fat, boil it for five or six hours 
 in two quarts of water; then pour off all the liquor, and 
 add another quart of boiling water to it; boil again for 
 another hour or more ; mix both the liquors together, and 
 serve it up with such seasoning as may be desired. 
 
 Note. Some put a large crust of bread into the first 
 boiling ; but the cook ought to know that by saturating 
 the water with bread it will be prevented, in some degree, 
 from taking up the nutritious properties of the fowl ; and 
 therefore, if bread be desired, it should be added to the 
 liquor after the boilings are completed. 
 
 PLUM-PORRIDGE. There is a form in several of 
 our cookery-books for this dish; it consists in boiling a leg 
 or shin of beef till it is tender, and then straining off the 
 broth, to which are added six penny loaves sliced, with 
 five pounds of stewed sun-raisins, two pounds of prunes, 
 and five pounds of currants, all which must be boiled in the 
 broth till they are done, just before which three quarters of 
 an ounce of mace, half an ounce of cloves, and two nut¬ 
 megs, all beaten fine, are to be put in ; after taking off the 
 pot, add three pounds of sugar, a little salt, a quart of 
 sack,* a quart of claret, and the juice of three lemons ; it 
 may be thickened with sago instead of bread. Keep it in 
 earthen pans for use. A very pretty dyspeptic and expen¬ 
 sive dish ; which, reader, if you like, prepare and eat! 
 
 * By sack is, we presume, meant sherry or madeira ; sack is a 
 corruption of sec —dry. 
 
38 
 
 CHAPTER III. 
 
 ROASTING. 
 
 *- A glorious theme 
 
 On which a gourmand oft may dream :— 
 To rule the ROAST — a dish in chief— 
 
 Old England's pride is roasted beef; 
 Plum-pudding, its attendant care. 
 
 Though good, not always wholesome fare ; 
 The worst when mix’d with condiments 
 Which sensual Fashion oft invents ; 
 
 But mutton roast, or roasted beef, 
 
 Should ever be a dish in chief; 
 
 Nor need another interpose. 
 
 Save what we set down, namely, those : 
 Horse-radish, a most pungent friend. 
 
 On roast beef ever must attend ; 
 
 Potatoes— water ; after, wine ; 
 
 Or, if your health permit the cheer, 
 
 A nipperkin of good strong beer : 
 
 On such fare even kings may dine ! • 
 
 General Observations. —It is scarcely necessary tc 
 observe, that in order to roast meat properly care must be 
 taken that the fire is sufficiently large, steady, and intense, 
 so that no cessation in the process should take place during- 
 its continuance; it is best, nevertheless, for larg-e joints, 
 that they should be put down soon after the fire is made up 
 and begins to burn: for the gradual accession of heat to 
 the joint will more effectually prevent its burning , which 
 if it occur in the early part of the process will be very 
 prejudicial to the subsequent stages of it; it is material 
 therefore to prevent such an accident. This may in some 
 degree be prevented by skewering some writing paper over 
 the joint, or at least over the fat. But it is not customary 
 to cover small poultry, nor wild fowl, nor rabbits, &c. with 
 
 k * It is not meant that other vegetables in their season might not 
 
 be occasionally eaten with roast beef, such as French beans, 
 cabbage, &c.; but the prudent will always avoid eating a variety- 
 even of vegetables. Note, that throughout the United States of 
 America plain boiled rice is the constant accompaniment of roast 
 beef and mutton, as well as several other dishes ; it is an excellent 
 substitute for other vegetables. 
 
ROASTING. 
 
 39 
 
 paper; indeed, some use paper only to cover the fat, and 
 not the other parts of the joint. Of course the strength 
 of the fire must be regulated by the size of the joint; a 
 small thin joint may be put down at once to a brisk fire ; 
 but a thick and large joint wall require the precautions 
 above given. It should be well basted during the roasting; 
 towards the end of which the paper may be taken oft’, and 
 the joint being more completely exposed to the fire will 
 become brown, as it is usually desired to be. TWards the 
 end of the operation some salt may be sprinkled on the 
 joint, but not before ; some, hovrever, sprinkle salt upon it 
 when it is first put down, but it tends to draw out the 
 gravy. The time required for roasting meat wall depend 
 not only upon the weight and form of the joint, but also 
 on the regularity and intensity of the fire. No rule can 
 be laid down so uniform for roasting as for boiling, because, 
 in boiling , the degree of 212° of Fahrenheit’s thermometer 
 is alw T ays kept up ; the degree in roasting applied to meat 
 is, doubtless, very often considerably more than 212° ; yet 
 j from the constant accession of air and other causes it must 
 vary very much. Of course thick joints, as a large leg of 
 mutton or a bullock’s heart, will demand considerably more 
 time in proportion to their weight than a goose or a shoulder 
 of mutton. Perhaps, after all, the best general rule for the 
 cook is to allow a quarter of an hour to each pound of meat 
 as in boiling ; but, if the fire be good and steady from the 
 beginning to the end of the operation, scarcely any meat ' 
 will require so much time to be roasted as is here stated. 
 We observe, it is said in one of the cookery books, that a 
 piece of beef of ten pounds will take only an hour and a 
 half; and that one of twenty, if a thick piece, three hours. 
 
 ■ This may be very correct upon some occasions, but we do 
 | not believe, unless the fire be unusually intense, that either 
 of the joints will be properly done in the times mentioned. 
 
 I But, of course, the cook must accommodate the meat to 
 the palate of the persons designed to partake of it: some 
 like it more or less underdone; others will have it without 
 the least red in it. Beef and mutton in this respect may 
 be underdone without injury to their nutritious qualities; 
 but it is generally admitted, that the white and young 
 meats, as pork, veal, and lamb, should be done well. So 
 
40 
 
 ROASTING. —VENISON. 
 
 in regard to poultry; fowls and chickens, as well as turkeys 
 and some others, should have no red in them when roasted; 
 but the birds usually denominated game are by many pre¬ 
 ferred somewhat underdone. 
 
 There is one sign that all roast meats are done, which 
 may be here mentioned, namely, that consisting of strong 
 jets of steam spouting out from various parts of the meat, 
 or of birds, hares, &c.; and although the experienced cook 
 will not rely upon such evidence alone, it will be a tolerably 
 good one for the inexperienced. 
 
 Note , that meat in hot weather, or which has been 
 hung so long as to become tender, will require less time 
 in roasting than that which is fresh killed, or when the 
 weather is cold; in frosty weather it will require consider¬ 
 ably more time. 
 
 It is also a good method when the meat is first put down 
 to keep it for a time at a certain distance from the fire, and 
 as the roasting proceeds, to bring it nearer to it by shifting 
 the spit or other apparatus, so that the application of the 
 heat may be more gradual. 
 
 When the meat is about three-fourths done, the dish in 
 which it is to be served up should be carefully placed over 
 the dripping-pan, in order that it may receive the genuine 
 gravy of the meat. 
 
 Just before the meat is taken up a little flour should be 
 shaken over it in order that it may froth well; and some 
 thin melted butter should be poured over the meat when it 
 is about to be served up to add to the gravy. 
 
 For an account of spits, jacks, and screens, necessary 
 for roasting, see the Introduction on the Implements used 
 in Cookerij. 
 
 A HAUNCH, NECK, OR SHOULDER OF VE¬ 
 NISON. Venison having been hung sufficiently long to 
 be tender, which it will be from a week to a fortnight 
 depending upon the season; if it be dressed on a spit, let 
 the spit be first passed through it, and then cover it with 
 white paper rubbed over with butter ; prepare now a paste 
 of flour and water, roll it out and cover the haunch with it; 
 (some only cover the fat part with the paste;) place paper 
 over the whole and tie it fast to prevent the paste from 
 dropping oft'. If the haunch weigh twenty pounds, it will 
 
41 
 
 HOASTING.-FAWN, KID, MUTTON. 
 
 take about four hours roasting 1 . A few minutes before it 
 is done take off the paper and paste, dredge it well with 
 flour and baste it well with butter till it froths and becomes 
 of a light brown ; serve it up with brown gravy and currant 
 jelly, and send some up in a boat, or half a pint of red 
 wine and two ounces of sugar may be simmered tog-ether in 
 a close vessel for a few minutes, which will form a good 
 sweet sauce for it. 
 
 Note, that venison should be constantly basted during 
 the -whole time of its roasting. It is best basted with 
 clarified beef suet. 
 
 A FAWN, when very young, is not food to be greatly 
 desired, yet there are persons who will have it roasted 
 whole ; it is usual then to treat it in every respect like a 
 hare. It is undoubtedly better to let it arrive to the size of 
 a house-lamb, and then it may be roasted in quarters and 
 treated more like venison ; except that it will not need the 
 paste over it, although some cover it with bacon. It may 
 be sent up w r ith venison sauce. 
 
 A KID, if a young sucking one, may be roasted whole 
 like a hare; but if it be suffered to grow larger it should be 
 divided into joints, which may be roasted as lamb, to which 
 it is perhaps equal, at least in its nutritious qualities. 
 
 A HAUNCH OF MUTTON DRESSED LIKE VE¬ 
 NISON.—-Take a fine hind-quarter of mutton, cut it 
 like a haunch; let it be kept as long as it can be kept 
 without spoiling. Then lay it in a pan with the backside 
 down, and pour a bottle of port wine over it, in which let 
 it lie for twenty-four hours, covering the pan closely to 
 prevent the evaporation of the wine. Spit it and roast it, 
 basting it all the time with the same liquor and butter. 
 Some lay on paste and paper in a similar way to that 
 directed in the preceding article for venison. It will take 
 about three hours roasting. When done, send it up with 
 some good gravy, and also some swmet sauce, and currant 
 jelly. A neck of mutton dressed in this way is also a nice 
 dish. 
 
 A SADDLE OF MUTTON should hang for many days 
 till it is tender ; remove the skin near the rump without 
 taking it quite oft’ or breaking it. Take now some lean ham, 
 truffles, morels, onions, parsley and thyme all chopped 
 
42 
 
 ROASTING. — MUTTON, LAMB, BEEF. 
 
 small, with some spice, pepper, and salt; strew these over 
 the mutton where the skin is taken off; then put the skin 
 over it neatly, tie it over with some white paper and roast 
 it. When nearly done take off the paper and strew over 
 the joint some grated bread, and when it becomes of a fine 
 brown take it up. Let some good gravy be served up with 
 it as sauce. 
 
 Note , that a saddle of mutton is often roasted without 
 the minced ham, &c. ; it is at all times, and when dressed 
 in the most simple which is the best way, a very excellent 
 dish. 
 
 A LEG OF MUTTON is sometimes roasted stuffed in 
 various parts with oysters or cockles ; but we do not re¬ 
 commend the dish. To give directions for roasting a leg of 
 mutton in the simplest and best way after the general di¬ 
 rections for roasting above would be quite superfluous ; but 
 of this we may be assured, that a roasted leg of mutton is 
 much more nutricious than a boiled one, because, in the one 
 case, all the goodness of the meat is retained in the joint, 
 while in the other much of it is dissolved in the water. A leg 
 of mutton of six pounds will require one hour and a half. 
 Some good plain gravy may be sent up with it; but when 
 the dish is laid on the dinner table, if the carver make at 
 once a deep incision down to the bone in the thickest part 
 of the joint sufficient gravy will in general (if it be properly, 
 not too much done) run out of the meat. 
 
 A FORE-QUARTER OF HOUSE LAMB of six 
 
 pounds weight will take about one hour and a half; a leg 
 of four pounds weight an hour. They should be basted from 
 the time they are laid down ; and some cooks sprinkle on a 
 little salt as soon as they are put down ; but we do not 
 approve of this. The joint may be dredged with flour when 
 nearly done to give it a brown appearance ; but even this 
 
 flour dredging’ had better be avoided. 
 
 This joint is sometimes brought to the table whole; but 
 it is better to separate the shoulder, and pepper and salt 
 the ribs before the dish is brought up. Squeeze a Seville 
 orange over them. Serve up with mint sauce, which is 
 always expected with lamb; and potatoes or other vegetables 
 of course ; a salad will also be acceptable. 
 
 BEEF requires in roasting more time than mutton; but 
 
 
ROASTING. 
 
 I 
 
 -VEAL, CALF’S HEAD. 
 
 43 
 
 the general directions at the commencement of this chapter 
 will be quite sufficient with the least discretion of the cook 
 to roast any joint of the ox. Roast beef is always served 
 up with plenty of scraped horse-radish with which the edge 
 ■; °. f the dlsh should be garnished; some eat pickles with it- 
 the vegetaffies are various ; but potatoes are indispensable. ’ 
 VRAL requires considerable attention in roastino- be- 
 J c ^se care must he taken that it be quite done, and conse¬ 
 quently all white even to the bone ; it will certainly require 
 tor most joints a quarter of an hour for each pound of meat • 
 sometimes even more than this time. Let the fat of the 
 loin and the fillet be covered with paper. And stuff the 
 uhet and shoulder with the following: a quarter of a pound 
 A suet chopped fine, grated bread, sweet herbs, or lemon peel 
 a chopped fine, to which, add pepper, salt, a little nutmeg, 
 and the yolk of an egg; mix all well together and inclose it 
 m the veal so that it may not fall out during roasting, 
 the breast should be roasted with the caul till nearly done 
 vvhen the caul must be taken off, and then flour and baste 
 the meat to give it a nice brown. It is scarcely necessary 
 to add that all the joints during the roasting should be care- 
 uily basted. In serving roasted veal up, melted butter 
 ai mould be poured over it; the vegetables may be almost at 
 f 3leasure and those which are in season ; but potatoes should 
 : je a standing dish ; and it is a question whether any vege¬ 
 table will ever be discovered so suitable and withal so 
 
 i« wholesome to be eaten with all kinds of animal food as the 
 ootatoe. 
 
 Ao^c that a cow calf generally produces the best veal, 
 md chiefly the leg, because it contains a roll of fat mixed 
 •vith the young udder. 
 
 A CALF S HEAD, being washed very clean, boned 
 md dried with a cloth, let it be strewed over with some 
 pace, pepper, salt, nutmeg, and cloves beaten into a coarse 
 ® [ 0Waer » w *th some bacon cut very small and some grated 
 Ji! >read > r °H ^e whole up, skewer it, and tie it with tape ; set it 
 o.roast basting with butter; make a rich veal gravy thickened 
 yith butter rolled in flour. Some choose mushrooms and the 
 at part ol oysters ; others mushroom sauce. Serve it up. 
 
 bate, that a calf’s head is occasionally roasted with 
 
44 ROASTING.—TONGUES, PALATES, PORK. 
 
 oysters, eggs, and a variety of other ingredients ; but it is 
 a dish which we cannot recommend. 
 
 TONGUES, UDDERS, AND SWEETBREADS. 
 Let a tongue he parboiled, then stick in it eight or ten cloves, 
 set it to roast basting with butter; serve it -with gravy and 
 sweetmeat sauce. An udder must be roasted in the same 
 way. A sweetbread should also be parboiled, then larded 
 with bacon and roasted in a Dutch oven, or on a poor man’s 
 jack. Serve up with plain butter, catchup and butter, or 
 lemon sauce. 
 
 OX PALATES are also directed to be roasted in some 
 of the Cookery Books, but with such a strange jumble of 
 other things, that the prudent would do well to avoid such adish. 
 
 A BULLOCK’S OR CALF’S HEART may be stuffed 
 and roasted as directed for baking, which see. 
 
 PORK should always be well done ; and if, as it is 
 usually sold in London, the skin with the fat beneath be 
 on it before the joint is set down to roast, the skin should 
 be cut across through to the fat, at the distance of every 
 half inch, with a sharp penknife ; this process will facilitate 
 not only the dressing of the meat, but also the labours of the 
 carver, and render the skin itself, which when not burnt 
 is very nutricious, pleasant to be eaten. Sage and onions 
 chopped very fine form the general seasoning to roasted 
 pork ; the knuckle part of the leg is commonly stuffed with 
 it. A spring or hand, sometimes called gammon, should 
 have the shank first cut off, and then be sprinkled with sage 
 and onions before it is set down. Baste a spare-rib, or 
 bald-rib as it is sometimes called, with a little butter, a dust 
 of flour and a shred of sage. A griskin should be basted 
 with a little butter, sage, pepper, and salt. The time for 
 roasting pork generally must be quite as long as that for 
 veal; but a spare-rib will not, of course, require a quarter 
 of an hour for each pound of meat. 
 
 A ^LEG OF PORK being a thick joint will require, if 
 ten pounds, three hours to be roasted. 
 
 In regard to the general basting of pork, that which has 
 much fat beneath the skin will not require, except when 
 first set down, any other liquid for its basting than the fat 
 which runs from it ; previously, however, a little clean 
 
45 
 
 ROASTING.— HAM, GAMMON 
 
 dripping or clarified suet may be used for the purpose.* The 
 general accompaniments of all roasted pork are apple-sauce, 
 (and mustard. 
 
 Note, that in the country, particularly where economy 
 is the order of the day, and where the pigs that are killed 
 are most commonly fat and large, the whole of the skin with 
 most of the fat attached to it is taken off, except that from 
 the head and-legs, in order to be converted into bacon, 
 ■and hence, the pork thus separated from the skin and fat, 
 is cut into various joints, and if not dressed fresh, salted. 
 When, however, those joints are roasted fresh, they must 
 be treated in a similar way to that directed above. But, of 
 30urse, such pork will want no scoring with the penknife. 
 We believe, however, that the large country pork to which 
 we allude, is more wholesome and nutritious than the pork 
 usually met with in London, although this last appears more 
 tlelicate. 
 
 Attend to the general directions for roasting, and 
 take care not to bring the pork very near to the fire at first. 
 
 A HAM, or GAMMON, (that is, the fore-leg of the 
 pig,) is sometimes roasted thus. Having taken off the 
 skin, let it lie in luke-warm water for six or more hours 
 to extract a portion of its saltness ; the longer, in short, 
 that it is soaked the better; see the Boiling of Ham, page 
 p. When it has soaked sufficiently, put it into a pan, 
 and pour over it a bottle of canary or port wine, in which 
 let it remain for a quarter of an hour. When put on the 
 spit, put paper over the fat side, and pour the wine in which 
 It has been soaked into the dripping-pan, and baste with 
 It all the time that it is roasting. When done, take off the 
 paper, and strew over it crumbled bread and parsley shred 
 fine ; let it be now kept a short time longer at the fire so 
 ps to become brown, if served hot, garnish with raspings 
 jf bread ; if cold, garnish with green parsley for a second 
 purse. It will require the same time, if not more, for 
 roasting as for boiling. 
 
 * Dr. Kitchener says, that a little sweet oil rubbed on the skin 
 livith a paste-brush or a goose-feather, will make the crackling 
 irisper and browner than basting it with dripping; and that it 
 [ivill be a better colour than all the art of cookery can make it in 
 my other way. Cook’s Oracle, page 165. 
 
46 
 
 ROASTING.— A SUCKING PIG. 
 
 Or a Ham or Gammon may be roasted thus; which is, 
 perhaps, a preferable way. Half boil it first, and then 
 take off the skin ; dredge it with oatmeal sifted very fine ; 
 baste it with butter, and roast it gently two hours. It must 
 be browned as above directed, and served up in the same 
 way. 
 
 A SUCKING PIG being- prepared for dressing as di¬ 
 rected below, make a stuffing thus : some sage chopped fine, 
 two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of black pepper, and four 
 ounces or more of crumbs of stale bread; or, in addition, 
 if you choose, a large onion chopped fine ; to these some 
 add an egg and a bit of butter. The belly of the pig must 
 be filled with the stuffing, and sewed up. Put it down to 
 the fire, when it must be well dredged with flour. A pig- 
 iron is usually hung in the middle of the fire, or in its stead 
 a flat iron may be employed, in order that the heat may 
 be directed to both ends of the pig rather than to the middle, 
 which, in roasting it, it is necessary that it should be. When 
 the pig is warm, put a piece of butter into a cloth, and rub 
 frequently the pig with it while it is roasting. Some direct, 
 instead of butter, the basting to be with salad oil. It will 
 be done in about an hour and a half; but the time must 
 depend upon its size and age; some say a pig is best at 
 three, others will have it six weeks old ; the last we should 
 choose. When the pig becomes of a fine brown, and other 
 evidence of its being done appears, rub it dry with a cloth, 
 and then with a little cold butter, which will contribute to 
 its crisping, upon which not a little of its merit as an 
 epicurean dish depends. Take it up when done ; cut off 
 the head, the collar, the ears, and the jaw-bone; split the 
 jaw in two ; and when you have cut the pig down the back, 
 which is best done before the spit is drawn out, lay it back 
 to back on the dish, a jaw being on each side, an ear on 
 each shoulder, and the collar at the shoulder. A sauce is 
 prepared thus : save all the gravy which runs out of the 
 pig during its roasting, by placing a bason in the dripping- 
 pan as soon as it begins to run ; to this add the brains 
 chopped and a bit of anchovy, four ounces or more of 
 butter, a slice of lemon, to which some add an ounce of 
 white wine, caper liquor, and salt. Make the whole quite 
 hot in a saucepan, adding a little flour if necessary to 
 
ROASTING.— RABBIT. 47 
 
 i thicken it. Pour it into the dish with the pig, and serve 
 it up; besides which, some good gravy may be sent up in 
 1 a boat; boiled currants and some currant jelly are also 
 sometimes eaten with it. It is the best way to send it to 
 the table already carved. 
 
 In London pigs are more frequently baked than roasted; 
 the baking saves a great deal of trouble to the cook ; butter 
 should be sent with it to the baker. 
 
 We have thus detailed the mode of dressing this luxu¬ 
 rious dish ; but w r ere our voice of any moment, we would 
 say that it is one of which no person who desires to avoid the 
 troubles and inconveniences of indigestion should partake. 
 Notwithstanding w r e disapprove of this dish, we will add a 
 |j few directions for those who choose to kill and prepare the 
 
 I j pig for roasting themselves. 
 
 Stick the pig just above the breast bone into the heart ; 
 j it will be thus the most quickly killed ; when dead put it 
 into cold water for a few minutes ;* then plunge it for half 
 
 I a minute into scalding water; take it out and rub or pull 
 off all the hairs as soon as possible; if all the hairs do not 
 ; come readily off, plunge the pig again into the scalding 
 
 I 1 water; when the skin is perfectly clean, wash the pig well 
 j in warm water, and then in two or three cold waters. Take 
 < off the feet at the first joint, slit down the belly and take 
 lout the entrails; put the heart, liver, lights, and petit-toes, 
 together ; wash the pig well in cold water both inside and 
 
 ( out, and after drying it with a cloth, hang it up till it is 
 wanted ; but it is considered by gourmands that the sooner 
 
 i it is dressed after it is killed the better. 
 
 A RABBIT being cased, skewer the head upon the 
 I back, the fore legs into the ribs, and the hind legs double. 
 
 Stuff it with the following : take the crumb of half a penny 
 I;loaf, some parsley, thyme, maijoram, and lemon-peel, pep- 
 } per, salt, a nutmeg, two eggs, and a quarter of a pound of 
 I butter, (to which some add a little cream, why, we do not 
 know) ; let the bread, parsley, &c. be chopped fine, and 
 mix alltogether, and sew it up in the belly; dredge and baste 
 
 * Some direct the pig to be rubbed over with resin in fine pow¬ 
 der, or, in its stead, its own blood j but we see no necessity for 
 Neither. 
 
48 
 
 ROASTING.— HARE. 
 
 well with butter. A rabbit will take from half an hour to 
 three quarters in roasting ; the time being dependent on its 
 size and age. 
 
 For sauce, the liver must be boiled ; a part of which 
 should be chopped fine, and served up with melted butter 
 and parsley ; the other part should be cut into pieces, and 
 placed as garnish round the dish. 
 
 To roast a Rabbit like a Hare, it should be larded with 
 bacon, and basted as a hare, for which see the next article; 
 serve it up with good gravy. 
 
 A HARE, being paunched, kept sufficiently long to be 
 tender, then skinned, soaked in water, well cleansed, and 
 properly trussed, should be stuffed with the following : take 
 two or three ounces of bread, four ounces of beef suet, (to 
 which some add the same quantity of butter,) the liver of 
 the hare boiled, a little parsley, a bit of lemon peel, a little 
 cayenne pepper, a sprig of winter savory or lemon thyme, 
 pepper and salt, and the whole of one egg, (some put two 
 eggs and a glass of port wine, and an anchovy and some 
 bacon,) all these articles must be chopped fine, and mixed 
 well together, and then be sewed up in the belly. Lay it 
 now before the fire ; put into the dripping-pan a quart of 
 good new milk, and baste it well with the milk till it is 
 nearly all used ; then dredge it with flour and baste with 
 butter till it froths well. A hare requires from an hour 
 and a quarter to two hours to roast, the time depending on 
 its size and age : a very old hare will be best made into soup. 
 When your hare is done, serve it up with good gravf 'in the 
 dish ; currant jelly ; some also add melted butter; and be¬ 
 sides a sweet sauce made with port wine and sugar warmed 
 together. 
 
 Note, that instead of milk some recommend dripping 
 for the basting, others small beer ; dripping is, perhaps, 
 the best, but there is no end to the whimsies of cookery. 
 
 It was the observation of Martial, the Roman Epigram¬ 
 matist, that the hare was the first glory among quadru¬ 
 peds ; but this must now, at airy rate, be taken with con¬ 
 siderable limitation. A hare, without its accompaniments, 
 is not a dish which the prudent and economical portion of 
 society ought to care much about; in addition to which, 
 when we partake of such a dish, it may not be unprofitable 
 
49 
 
 ROASTING.— MOCK-HARE, TURKEY. 
 
 to reflect that the very fibres which we masticate have been’ 
 most probably, obtained for our gratification by means o^ 
 a pack of hounds kept purposely for sport by our Nimrods > 
 and that the poor hare was chased and agitated for hours 
 before being destroyed, when it would have been easy by 
 other means at once to despatch her. Alas for the follies 
 of thoughtless and, in this instance, ignoble man ! 
 
 Note .-—A hare is sometimes boned before it is dressed 
 in London: the operation of boning is usually performed 
 by the poulterer; and where the bones are objectionable, 
 this method of dressing it will be, of course, preferred. 
 We believe, however, that gourmands will set their faces 
 against the practice ; it renders enjoyment too easy. 
 
 MOCK-HARE is an excellent dish, and may be thus 
 prepared: cut out the inside lean of a sirloin of beef and 
 hang it up sufficiently long for it to become thoroughly 
 tender; then prepare some stuffing as directed for the hare 
 above, and cut the meat open, lard it, and lay the stuffing- 
 on the meat; roll it and tie it with tape, and roast it by a 
 hanging: jack, or it may be tied to a spit. Baste it 
 
 as 
 
 directed for the hare; or you may soak the meat in four 
 ounces of port wine and a glass of vinegar for a day or 
 more; with which also it may be basted. Serve it up as 
 hare. Its time of roasting will be in proportion to its 
 weight. 
 
 A TURKEY, being properly drawn and trussed, and 
 having hung a sufficient time to be tender (see Boiling 
 Turley, page 10,) stuff it with the following: take four 
 ounces of butter, or beef suet chopped fine, about the same 
 quantity of grated bread, a little lemon-peel, parsley, and 
 sweet herbs, chopped together, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, 
 and one or two eggs; mix these all well together and place 
 them in the craw: some add, besides, a little sausage meat, 
 or finely minced veal; or pork sausage meat may be the 
 
 I only stuffing. Spit it, and as soon as it is laid down singe 
 it; after dredging it with flour, paper the breast; let your 
 fire be brisk, and baste with butter as it melts in the 
 basting ladle ; into which it should be put rather than into 
 the dripping-pan. When the turkey is nearly done, take 
 off the paper, dredge it again with flour, and baste till it 
 1 is done. 
 
50 ROASTING.-TURKEY, GOOSE. 
 
 The time of roasting a turkey must be varied according 
 to its size; one of eight pounds will require about two 
 hours. Pork sausages are a common accompaniment; 
 they may be either boiled or fried, and placed round the 
 dish. Send it up with gravy, oyster, mushroom, or egg 
 sauce; the first is the best. 
 
 The cook will not forget that hen turkeys are esteemed 
 best. See Made Dishes for some Lines on the Turkey. 
 
 TURKEY POULTS are to be treated in the same 
 way; but they must be served up with bread, as well as 
 gravy sauce. They, of course, will take much less time 
 in roasting. 
 
 A turkey may be baked instead of being roasted; and, 
 if sent to the baker, butter must be sent with it for the 
 basting. 
 
 A GOOSE, full grown, sometimes called a stubble 
 goose, should be hung three or four days or more, before 
 it is dressed, in order that it may become tender. Let 
 it be stuffed with the following: take some sage leaves and 
 onions, (the quantity of each according to your taste, 
 and if you boil them a short time in water the stuffing will 
 be rendered more mild and wholesome); add also, if you 
 please, an apple having the rind pared off, chop the whole 
 very fine, to which add two spoonsful of salt, one of pep¬ 
 per, and an ounce or more of butter. These being put 
 into the goose, and secured in it by tying, spit it and set it 
 before the fire; singe it, and then dredge it with flour; 
 when it becomes hot baste it with butter. Some cover the 
 breast-bone with paper, which must be taken off some time 
 before the goose is done. When it is nearly done, dredge 
 it again with flour, and baste it till it froths. A goose 
 of six pounds’ weight will require about an hour and a half: 
 take particular care in the roasting that the fire is applied 
 to both ends as well as to the middle of it; it should be 
 thoroughly done, and have no red flesh on any of the 
 bones. When the goose is done, put it into the dish, 
 (some pour a small quantity of boiling water into it, 
 and serve it up with apple-sauce and mustard of course 
 but it will also be best to prepare some good gravy, am 
 when the goose is cut up let it be poured over it; some ad< 
 a glass of port wine to it. 
 
ROASTING.-GREEN GOOSE, DUCK, WILD FOWL. 51 
 
 Note that, besides the stuffing mentioned above, which 
 will be more mild and agreeable if slightly boiled first, 
 many persons employ other things with it, such as crumb 
 of bread, the parboiled liver of the goose, and the yolk 
 of an egg or two; but these are not necessary, and in our 
 judgment will not improve the goose in any way. 
 
 A GREEN GOOSE is roasted in the same way as the 
 preceding, with this difference, that some persons omit the 
 sage and onions in the stuffing, merely putting into it 
 pepper and salt; when done, it should be served up with 
 gooseberry sauce: a good gravy will also be a necessary 
 appendage. Some put sorrel-juice with the gooseberries 
 and a little butter: this seems an unnecessary fancy. Gar¬ 
 nish with grated crust of bread. 
 
 A DUCK, properly drawn, hung a sufficient time, and 
 trussed, should be stuffed like a goose, and roasted in a 
 similar way.—See Goose, above. A duck of two pounds’ 
 weight will require about three quarters of an hour. A 
 gravy nlay be made with the gizzard and pinions, an onion, 
 some lemon-pickle, a few pepper corns, a blade of mace, 
 and a spoonful of catchup. This may be poured strained 
 into the dish. Send up with the duck some onion sauce 
 in a tureen. 
 
 Note that, in the use of onions for sauce, &c. for 
 this as well as for goose, they are made more mild by being- 
 first slightly boiled. 
 
 WILD GEESE, WILD DUCKS, WIDGEON, TEAL, 
 POCHARDS, and other birds of the duck tribe, many 
 of which are good eating, should be dressed and served 
 up in a similar way to the goose and the duck above de¬ 
 scribed ; but as they are not so large as the tame birds, 
 they will take less time in the dressing-: an hour will, 
 in general, be sufficient for a wild goose ; half an hour for 
 a wild duck : some, indeed, allow this last only twenty 
 minutes. The smaller birds, such as widgeon, teal, &c. 
 require still less time. 
 
 A FOWL or CAPON, having hung a day or two at 
 least, being properly trussed, should be put down to a 
 good fire; singe, flour, and baste it well with butter. 
 A fowl in general requires one hour to roast; a large one 
 more time than this, a small one less. 
 
 d 2 
 
52 ROASTING. — CHICKEN, PIGEON, PHEASANT. 
 
 Note. — Some stuff a fowl the same as a turkey , which 
 see. But it is frequently dressed without any stuffing. 
 When it is done and properly browned, which it ought 
 always to be, serve it up with a gravy made from the head 
 and neck, or good beef gravy, egg, mushroon, or celery 
 sauce. Bacon, ham, or tongue, is a common accompani¬ 
 ment to a roasted fowl. 
 
 CHICKEN are dressed in a similar way to fowl, but 
 without stuffing ; they usually require about half an hour; 
 a small one not so long. Parsley and butter may be poured 
 over them: serve some gravy in a boat. Asparagus is 
 their luxurious accompaniment. 
 
 A PIGEON being drawn, and the craw taken out, let 
 it be washed in several waters, and then dried with a cloth; 
 chop some parsley, seasoned with pepper and salt and 
 mixed with a lump of butter, for stuffing. Spit, dredge 
 it with flour, and baste with butter ; it will be done in 
 about twenty minutes. Serve it up with parsley and butter, 
 and garnish with asparagus if in season. A uood-pigeon 
 requires similar treatment: it may be served up with 
 gravy. 
 
 A PHEASANT or PARTRIDGE is dressed either 
 as a fowl or turkey; both are usually stuffed. Dr. 
 Kitchener recommends a beef-steak to be put inside a 
 pheasant before setting it down to roast, to improve its 
 flavour. We see no necessity for this addition; we think 
 the pheasant, when tender and properly dressed, a delicious 
 dish. The doctor must have been rather unfortunate in 
 his experience with this bird, as he says that “ its rarity 
 is its best recommendation.” 
 
 Note that gastronomers often keep this bird a week, 
 in order to give it that peculiar haut gout, in their estima¬ 
 tion its chief merit; but those who desire a pleasant and 
 wholesome dish will avoid such an extreme, notwithstand¬ 
 ing it should have little more than “ the flavour of a com¬ 
 mon fowl.”—Why, a common fowl w T ell-dressed is itself a 
 vdiolesome as well as a luxurious repast. 
 
 A pheasant requires about half an hour to roast; it 
 should be served up with good gravy, into which some 
 put a bit of garlic, and bread sauce. It is usual to fix one 
 of the principal feathers of the bird in the tail. 
 
ROASTING. — PARTRIDGE, GUINEA-FOWL, 8tC. 53 
 
 A partridge requires at least twenty minutes or more 
 roasting. It may be served up with good gravy and bread 
 sauce: some serve it up with rice sauce. 
 
 A GUINEA FOWL, called commonly Gallina or 
 Gating, is dressed in a similar way to a pheasant; it is 
 always stuffed. It is an elegant as well as a nutricious 
 dish; but in this country always an expensive one. 
 
 PEA-FOWLS are dressed in a similar way to the pro¬ 
 ceeding; but they are not often the objects of the cook’s 
 care. 
 
 A WOODCOCK or SNIPE. These birds are never- 
 drawn, but roasted with all the intestines within them. 
 When they are properly trussed, spitted, and laid down to 
 the fire, toast the round of a small loaf of bread, nicely 
 brown, and lay it in a dish under the bird; baste with a 
 little butter, and let the entrails drop on the toast. When 
 the bird is done, put the toast in a dish, and lay the bird 
 on it. Some pour gravy into the dish, and send up some 
 also in a boat, and garnish with slices of lemon; while 
 others say, that butter only should be eaten w r ith it; that 
 gravy takes off their flavour. Mrs. Rundell cautions the 
 carver, in helping it, to remove “ a small bitter bag in the 
 trail;” which, and the dressing of the intestines of these 
 birds prove that they are dishes to which epicureans, as far 
 as we are concerned, are heartily welcome! A woodcock 
 requires about twenty minutes or more to roast; a snipe 
 about fifteen. 
 
 RUFFS AND REEVES, which are found in England, 
 chiefly in Lincolnshire and the Isle of Ely, are a delicacy; 
 they are trussed like w T oodcocks, but not dressed like them 
 ; with the entrails. They take about twelve minutes to roast, 
 j Serve them up with gravy and bread sauce ; garnish with 
 | crisp crumbs of bread. 
 
 A GREEN PLOVER must be roasted without drawing, 
 jj like the woodcock, and served similarly on a toast. A 
 grey plover is sometimes roasted; hut it is generally 
 i esteemed better stewed. See Stewing. 
 
 LARKS, WHEATEARS, SPxLRROWS, and other 
 f small birds. Let them be drawn, and then put them on a 
 skewer ; tie both ends of the skewer to the spit; dredge 
 and baste them with butter or delicate dripping: ten or a 
 
54 
 
 ROASTING.-MOOR GAME, FISH. 
 
 few more minutes will be sufficient to roast them. Have 
 ready the following': break half a penny loaf into crumbs, 
 and put them, with half an ounce of butter, into a frying 
 or stew-pan, and shake them over a gentle fire till they 
 become a light brown; lay them between the birds, and 
 pour a little melted butter over them. 
 
 Note .—Instead of dredging with flour, some strew bread 
 crumbs over the birds while roasting, which is the better 
 way. 
 
 MOOR GAME, such as Black Cocks, Grouse, Quails, 
 and other birds of the partridge tribe, are to be dressed in 
 a similar way to the partridge or the pheasant, which see. 
 Of course the time of their roasting will depend upon the 
 size of the bird; a quail, being small, will be done in ten or 
 at most fifteen minutes. 
 
 Note, some roast quails, like woodcocks and snipes, 
 with the intestines in them; but we, as sober family cooks, 
 do not approve of roasting any birds with their intestines ; 
 they are assuredly more wholesome without them. 
 
 OF THE ROASTING OF FISH. Some of the 
 cookery books describe the roasting of Cod's Head, 
 Cod's Sounds, Sturgeon, Lobsters, and a few other fish ; 
 but as all these are much better baked or otherwise 
 dressed, we do not think it necessary to enlarge under this 
 section; we may, however, just observe, there can be no 
 doubt that in dressing food generally, as well as fish in 
 particular, whatever process contributes most to the re¬ 
 tention of its nutritive qualities within it during its cooking- 
 must be the best. Hence the baking, as well as the broiling 
 and the frying of fish, is, for many of them at least, 
 better than boiling: indeed baking, broiling, and frying, 
 are merely roasting in other forms ; and they all are, more 
 or less, well suited to the preparation of fish as well as 
 other food for the human stomach; for Cod’s Head 
 roasted, therefore, see Cod’s Head baked. 
 
55 
 
 CHAPTER IV. 
 
 BAKING. 
 
 An ancient, very useful art! 
 
 Even Pharoah, the Egyptian king 
 
 Had Bakers, wholesome bread to bring;— 
 
 But now Improvement’s rolling tide 
 Hath well applied ‘ 
 
 Bakina to all the food of man. 
 
 3 : J * * * 
 
 Hail, KNOWLEDGE! hail! 
 
 Thy powerful flail 
 Shall pass o’er every art, and fling 
 The chaff unto the winds ; thy servants. Heat 
 And Steam ! 
 
 
 General Observations. —As we have stated at the 
 conclusion of the last chapter, under the section Roasting 
 of Fish, that baking is well suited for the preparation of 
 a great variety of food, it will not be necessary to enlarge 
 upon this subject here. As, however, baking is carried on 
 by various apparatus, it is desirable that the economical 
 housekeeper and cook should be well acquainted with the 
 different methods now employed to conduct this useful and 
 convenient operation. To this end our Introduction should 
 be, by all means, consulted under the section on the instru¬ 
 ments and apparatus used in cookery. In London the 
 generality of persons consign the office of baking to a pro¬ 
 fessed baker, who performs it at much less expense than it 
 can be done at home; but where a baker does not reside, it 
 is quite necessary that the best and most economical method 
 of baking should be well known : for “ Baking,” to use 
 the expressions employed by a professed baker in Dr. 
 Kitchiner’s work, “ is one of the cheapest and most 
 convenient ways of dressing a dinner in small families.” It 
 is true that from the great variety of the dishes usually 
 baked in a baker’s oven, they may not all of them be so 
 free from a mixture of smells as when baked at home ; but 
 a hare, a goose, and a turkey, may be mentioned in par¬ 
 ticular as dishes which, when well baked by our London 
 bakers, may compete even with the same dishes when 
 
56 
 
 BAKING.-RUMP OF BEEF. 
 
 roasted at home. There is, moreover, in baking- one con¬ 
 dition of which we may be assured, and that is, the dish, 
 whatever it might be, is equally and all over done; a con¬ 
 dition not always to be obtained by the most careful roast¬ 
 ing ; but one, nevertheless, in cooking and economy not to 
 be neglected. 
 
 It is scarcely necessary to remind the cook that all the 
 dishes or other vessels in which any thing is baked should 
 be made carefully clean; and that a vessel in which fish has 
 been baked, in particular, should be wholly freed from its 
 fishy smell before being employed, if employed at all, in the 
 baking of meat. 
 
 In baking butchers' meat generally , as well as poultry, 
 hares, pigs, and indeed all the articles mentioned in our section 
 on roasting, it may be just observed that nothing more is ne¬ 
 cessary than to prepare them in every particular as for roast¬ 
 ing; and that some of the joints, as well as hares and pigs, 
 ought to be basted several times during their baking. 
 The time required for baking meat, &c., is similar to that 
 required for roasting; in baking, however, something will 
 necessarily depend upon the degree of the heat of the oven. 
 
 With these general observations we might dismiss this 
 chapter of our work; but a few- dishes, as well as fish, 
 require more particular notice. 
 
 AN EXCELLENT AND ECONOMICAL DISH 
 FOR A FAMILY. Take any joint of meat you please, 
 a loin of veal, or a large shoulder of mutton, prepare 
 it as for roasting. Prepare also some suet pudding 
 without eggs, and place it round one side of your dish ; 
 fill up the remainder of the dish with potatoes, over 
 which lay the veal; bake the whole together; the gravy 
 of the veal or mutton w T hich runs out during the baking 
 will be absorbed in part by the potatoes and pudding; a 
 better family dish can scarcely be conceived. It may be 
 served op in the dish in w'hich it is baked; a homely but 
 nevertheless the best w>ay. 
 
 A RUMP OF BEEF is sometimes prepared for baking 
 thus: cut the bone out and beat the flesh well with a rolling- 
 pin, or a better v r ay wall be to let it hang til! it is tender; lard 
 it with bacon and season with pepper, salt, and cloves, or 
 mace. Put it into an earthen pot with the bones broken, 
 
BAKING. — CALF’S HEAD, MOCK TURTLE, &C. 57 
 
 half a pound of butter, some bay leaves, whole pepper, a 
 shallot or two, and some sweet herbs. Cover the pot and 
 set it in an oven for six or more hours. It should be served 
 up with dried sippets of bread and its ow r n liquor. Some 
 order besides, a ragout of mushrooms, truffles, forcemeat- 
 balls, and yolks of eggs. The fat, if too much, may be 
 taken off. 
 
 Note .—We cannot avoid considering this an unneces¬ 
 sary dish. 
 
 A CALF’S HEAD, being properly cleansed, divided in 
 two, and the brains taken out, put some iron skewers on the 
 top of a dish well buttered, and lay the head on them. 
 Grate some nutmeg over the head, upon which also strew 
 some sweet herbs, a little lemon-peel, both chopped fine, 
 and also some crumb of bread, and a little salt and pepper. 
 Flour it all over, stick bits of butter in the eyes and other 
 parts, then bake it till it is a nice brown. Some put into 
 the dish a piece of beef cut into small pieces, a handful of 
 sweet herbs, some whole pepper, mace, and cloves; to 
 which should be added a pint of water. The brains should 
 be boiled in a little water or milk, with some sage ; when 
 the head is done, lay it on a dish and set it by the fire to 
 keep warm. Take the beef, &c., in the dish, and boil the 
 whole in a saucepan for a few minutes; then strain it off; 
 put the strained liquor into the saucepan again, to which 
 add a piece of butter rolled in Hour, and the boiled sage 
 chopped fine, a spoonful of catchup and two spoonfuls of 
 port wine; boil these together for a minute or two, and 
 mix the brains well beaten with them : pour this sauce 
 over the head, and serve it up. The tongue should be baked 
 in the head. 
 
 Note .—This is another of those complicated dishes which 
 jimay, with a very little ingenuity, be dressed in a much 
 liimore simple and better way : there can be no doubt however 
 fthat a baked calf’s head is a wholesome and nutritious dish. 
 
 MOCK TURTLE baked, see page 21, under Mock 
 Turtle. 
 
 A BULLOCK’S HE/YRT is one of the dishes which baking 
 will render excellent. It may be stuffed with the follow¬ 
 ing: crumbs of bread, (the quantity must depend upon 
 the size of the heart, four ounces will in general be 
 
 d 3 
 
58 BAKING.— CALF’S HEART, PIG, TURBOT. 
 
 enough), chopped suet or butter, about two ounces, 
 parsley, and sweet marjoram, chopped lemon-peel grated, 
 pepper, salt, and nutmeg, with the yolk of an egg ; let all 
 these be well mixed and stuffed into the heart. Let it be 
 baked ; it will require full a quarter of an hour for each 
 pound which it weighs, as it is always of considerable thick¬ 
 ness. Serve it up with gravy, melted butter, and currant 
 jelly. A heart is often roasted, and, if so, it must be 
 stuffed and treated exactly as above for baking; but this 
 last is the most certain method of its being uniformly done. 
 As food, heart is not so agreeable to many stomachs as 
 beef or mutton; and therefore a hearty meal of it ought 
 rather to be avoided. 
 
 A CALF’S HEART may be also dressed in a similar way. 
 
 Note . — Many good housewives say that a heart is always 
 better roasted than baked. 
 
 A PIG for baking may be prepared in a similar way to 
 that which we have directed for roasting it, see page 46, but 
 some will add to the stuffing a little chopped sage. It will 
 be also advisable when the pig is done to take it out of the 
 oven, rub it over with a buttered cloth, and put it again 
 into the oven till it is dry. The fat which is on the gravy 
 in the dish should also be taken off; and to the gravy 
 be added a little of veal or other good gravy; these being 
 mixed with a bit of butter and the brains and the sage 
 from the belly of the pig, should be boiled together for 
 a few minutes, and then poured into the dish to the pig : 
 it should be served up hot, with mustard and apple sauce of 
 course; and it will be best if carved before it is sent to the 
 table. 
 
 A TURBOT is, as usually baked, an expensive dish; 
 but we suppose an epicurean will admire it. Rub, first, 
 butter pretty thickly over a dish about the size of the 
 fish, then put in a little salt, pepper, half a nutmeg grated, 
 some parsely chopped fine, to which add a pint of white 
 wine; cut off the head and tail of the fish and lay it in a 
 dish, over which pour another pint of w r ine ; grate the other 
 half of the nutmeg over it, strewing on also a little pepper, 
 salt, and some chopped parsley. Lay also thick pieces of 
 butter on it, strew it with flour and crumbs of bread, and 
 send it to the oven: it should be done a fine brown. Put 
 
BAKING.— SALMON, PIKE. 59 
 
 the turbot into the dish in which it is to be served. Put 
 the liquor in which it was baked into a saucepan, shake in 
 a little flour, to which add a piece of butter and two spoon¬ 
 fuls of atchup; boil these together for a few minutes. 
 Pour it into tureens and serve up the fish, adding other fish 
 sauce at pleasure. Garnish with lemon. 
 
 A SALMON, being gutted and w T ell cleansed, must be 
 cut into slices of about an inch thick. Prepare a forcemeat 
 thus: take some of the salmon, the same quantity of an 
 eel, a few mushrooms, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and cloves, 
 
 ! beat all together till it is very fine; boil now the crumb of 
 a roll milk, and beat it up with four eggs; mix these 
 with the preceding. Cover every slice of salmon with the 
 forcemeat and put bits of butter over it, placing oysters 
 round the dish ; place the dish in the oven, and when of a 
 fine brown, pour over it a little melted butter mixed with 
 port wine, the juice of a lemon, to which some add cayenne 
 pepper, and serve it up hot. 
 
 Note .—Some strip the skin from the slices of salmon be- 
 ; fore they are baked; but we see no necessity for so doing. 
 
 ' The salmon and eel may be omitted in the forcemeat; 
 they are troublesome to prepare and quite unnecessary. 
 A little good gravy being poured into the dish before it is 
 put into the oven will be, however, advantageous. It will 
 be advisable to fix a sheet of buttered paper over the dish 
 before it is placed in the oven. 
 
 A PIKE, or JACK as it is sometimes called, should 
 be gutted without being completely cut open, so that it may 
 contain the stuffing; care being also taken that it is well 
 cleansed: for the stuffing see the Boiling of Pike, 
 page 16 ; but some cooks make it more complicated, 
 adding, besides, the udder of veal or the kidney-part of 
 a loin of lamb, the roe or the milt of the fish, the liver, 
 &c. for which there seems to be no necessity. When the 
 fish is stuffed, rub the yolk of an egg over it, and strew 
 pn it also some crumb of bread and grated nutmeg; stick 
 on it a bit of butter here and there; half a pint, or even 
 more, of gravy or good broth should be placed in the dish : 
 bake it an oven moderately heated. The time required for 
 iit must be proportioned to its size. Let it be served up with 
 the following sauce: take the gravy in which it has been 
 baked, and add to it a spoonful of essence of anchovy, a 
 
60 
 
 BAKING.-PIPER, COD*S HEAD. 
 
 little soy or catchup, the juice of a lemon, (to which some 
 add minced shalot,) and some butter rolled in flour ; let 
 these be boiled together for a few minutes ; pour the same 
 into the dish, and serve the fish up. Garnish with fried 
 parsley. 
 
 Note.— Some have the fancy of cutting a notch along 
 the back of the fish, and bending it into a circle with the 
 tail in its mouth, before baking it; but this is a crotchet 
 which may be well omitted. 
 
 Note .—A PIPER is dressed in the same way as a 
 Pike. 
 
 A COD'S HEAD being thoroughly cleansed, lay it in 
 a dish rubbed over with butter, to which add a bunch of 
 sweet herbs, an onion stuck with cloves, a few blades of 
 mace, some pepper, a grated nutmeg, some Jemon-peel, 
 sliced horse-radish, and one quart of water. Dredge the 
 head with flour, and grate nutmeg over it; stick bits of 
 butter on various parts of it ; then sprinkle raspings of 
 bread all over it, and place it in the oven. When it is 
 done put the head into the dish in which it is to be 
 served up, and take means to keep it hot while you proceed 
 thus: pour into a saucepan all the liquor that is in the 
 dish in which the head was baked ; boil it a little and then 
 strain it off, putting into the strained gravy two glasses 
 of port-wine, two spoonfuls of catchup, a pint of shrimps 
 or their shells, half a pint of oysters, a pint of mushroom- 
 pickle, and four ounces of butter rolled in flour; mix all 
 together, and boil till it is thick ; strain the gravy off, and 
 pour it into the dish; stick some toasted bread three-corner- 
 wise, and fried crisp, about the mouth, laying the re¬ 
 mainder around the head. Garnish with crisped parsley, 
 notched lemon, and scraped horse-radish. 
 
 Note .—A cod’s head may be baked in a much more 
 simple and more wholesome way than this, which any cook 
 with a little ingenuity can devise: it may be simply dredged 
 with flour, have bits of butter stuck on it, with some good 
 broth or gravy in the dish, baked, and, when done, be 
 served up with any sauce you please. Every economist 
 will assuredly prefer this last method. 
 
 A Cod's Head, being prepared as above, may be roasted 
 in a tin oven before the fire or placed in a large stew-pan ; 
 it should be floured and basted with butter, and turned 
 
61 
 
 BAKING. — CARP, EELS. 
 
 often in order that every side may be equally done. The 
 ji gravy and the serving- up must be the same as for baked cod. 
 
 A CARP, of a moderate size, being- cleansed, must be 
 put into a dish long enough to hold it at full length, and 
 well rubbed round with butter ; season it with sweet herbs, 
 pepper, mace, cloves, nutmeg, an onion, and an anchovy; 
 to which some add scraped horse-radish, lemon-peel, and 
 a quart of water (some, instead, use a bottle of white 
 |wine) ; cover it over, and put it into the oven: it will be 
 done in an hour or less. When done, place the carp in 
 a dish so as to keep it hot; boil the liquor in which it was 
 jbaked for a few minutes, and then strain it, taking off 
 I the fat; to the strained liquor add four ounces of butter 
 rolled in flour; and also the juice of half a lemon and a 
 little salt. Warm the whole together, stirring continually; 
 j pour this sauce over the fish and serve it up, the roe being- 
 laid round it; and garnish with lemon-peel. 
 
 Note. —A carp may be dressed like this, with the 
 addition of stuffing, as described under Boiled Pike, 
 
 | (page 16,) which see. 
 
 I _ EELS and LAMPR.EYS, having their heads cut off, 
 
 (I being gutted, skinned, and cleansed from the blood and 
 • bone, may be stuffed thus: take some shrimps or oysters 
 ij chopped small, half a penny loaf crumbled, lemon-peel, 
 the yolk of tw-o eggs, a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg ; let 
 I this be sewed in the bellies, and form the fish into circles in the 
 j dish ; put flour and butter over them, pour a little water 
 ij into the dish, and bake them gently. When done, take 
 i the gravy from the dish, strain it through a sieve, and 
 ( add to it a little walnut-catchup, some lemon-pickle, 
 j browning, a glass of wdiite wine, an anchovy, and a slice of 
 lemon. Thicken it with butter and flour, and boil for ten 
 ! minutes. Garnish with lemon and parsley. 
 
 Note. —Eels may be baked in a much more simple and 
 !j a shorter way than this ; namely, by cutting them, after 
 J being skinned, into pieces of about three inches long, 
 j strewing over them such seasoning as you like, and putting- 
 on them a few bits of butter, and a little water in 
 the dish. They may be served up with what sauce you 
 choose ; melted butter and catchup mixed is, perhaps, the 
 best. See on skinning Eels, page 69. 
 
62 BAKING. — MACKAREL, HERRINGS, SPRATS. 
 
 MACKAREL.—Their heads being- cut off, wash and 
 dry them with a cloth, cut them open, gut them, and then rub 
 the bone with a little salt ; beat fine some mace, black 
 pepper, and a few cloves for a seasoning-. Lay now the 
 fish in a pan, and between every layer put two or three 
 bay-leaves, sprinkling the seasoning over them as you 
 proceed ; cover them with vinegar, and let them be tied 
 well over first with writing-paper and then with a cloth. 
 They should be put into a very slow oven, and will take a 
 long time baking; three hours or more, depending- in some 
 degree upon their size. 
 
 Note that besides this, some pour off all the vinegar 
 and cover them again with fresh vinegar, adding an onion 
 stuck with cloves, and baking for two hours more; a 
 method to spoil them most effectually, as so much acid will 
 contribute to the decomposition of the fish. 
 
 This dish will keep good for a long time, and is a nice 
 relish. 
 
 HERRINGS must be headed, scaled, gutted, washed 
 and wiped dry with a cloth; then mix some black pepper, 
 a few cloves, and salt together, and strew them over the 
 fish as you lay them straight in the pan, putting in a few 
 bay-leaves; tie paper over them, and afterwards a cloth; 
 bake them in a moderate oven. They may be eaten either 
 hot or cold; they will keep many months. Herrings, being- 
 smaller, require less time in baking than mackarel. 
 
 SPRATS may be treated in the same way; they may 
 be headed and otherwise cleaned, but not gutted. 
 
 Note. — Some order red wine to be put with the vinegar 
 in the baking- of sprats; but if the luxurious will have 
 wine with them they would do well to eat the sprats first, 
 and drink the wine afterwards ; a better and, we presume, 
 to most, a more agreeable method ! 
 
 Sprats may he baked in a slow oven two or three hours. 
 
 In regard to the Baking of Fish generally, it may be 
 useful to observe here that the heat of the oven should be 
 very moderate; that which exists after the batch of bread 
 is taken out is often employed for it : the time is not of so 
 much consequence as where the heat is intense : fish have 
 been sometimes left in a slow oven a whole night without 
 injury. 
 
63 
 
 CHAPTER V. 
 
 BROILING. 
 
 The careful cook should understand 
 Bright fire is Broiling’s chief demand ; 
 Its absence will her temper try 
 What time her mistress cries oh fie ! 
 When loud complaint is sent down stairs. 
 Avoid, so please you, any airs. 
 
 And bear reproof becomingly ; 
 
 Put, too, aside the tart reply; 
 
 To please, in future, promise, try ! 
 
 General Observations. —-Many directions for broiling 
 are not necessary ; our motto above contains the chief. It 
 is said that the best fuel for broiling is a compound of 
 charcoal and coke ; hut suppose neither of these are at 
 hand or to be had, what then ? Why, have the best fire 
 you can to be sure. We believe, however, that an ex¬ 
 cellent fire may be obtained, with moderate care, from 
 common coal; it is scarcely necessary to repeat that it 
 should be at once clear, bright, and intense: and that the 
 best gridiron is that having hollow bars, which it will be 
 a prudent precaution to grease before you lay on the meat; 
 and that ought, as a general rule, to be turned often during 
 the time of its broiling ; but beef-steaks are an exception 
 in this particular. Small fish also require to be turned 
 but once. 
 
 We might here enter (after the manner of some of our 
 contemporaries) into a somewhat learned dissertation con- 
 
 [ icerning the thickness necessary to be given to steaks, 
 chops, &c.; but as that useful and harmless carnifex, the 
 butcher , generally saves us most of such trouble, our 
 learning may be, for the present at any rate, dispensed 
 with ; we may just observe, for the advantage of those 
 who choose to become their own cutters of steaks and 
 chops, that the thickness of somewhat more than half an 
 inch, and not more than three quarters, will be found the 
 best; that an inch will be found too thick, and less than 
 half an inch generally too thin. We care not, in this 
 
t>4 
 
 BROILING. — BEEF-STEAKS. 
 
 instance, a whit for the dictum of the Beef-steak Club , 
 whether in accordance with these directions or not : our 
 dicta are founded on experience — the best and surest 
 teacher. 
 
 Note that all fish before being broiled should be 
 floured. It is of consequence that the dish in which the 
 broiled steak, &c. are to be served up should be kept hot 
 before the fire or over a chaffing-dish of hot coals, in order 
 that the steak or other food as it is done may be put into 
 it, and there kept hot till all is ready. 
 
 These few general directions will be sufficient for broiling 
 almost any thing ; a few articles may be, notwithstanding, 
 specifically mentioned. 
 
 BEEF-STEAKS from the rump are by all allowed to 
 be the best, unless, indeed, you extravagantly sacrifice the 
 inside meat of a sirloin, which will be a superlative bonne 
 bouche. Some choose to beat the steak well before dres¬ 
 sing it; others disapprove of beating : we see no necessity 
 for it if the beef be tender, to which end it should not be 
 cut from meat recently killed. When the gridiron is hot, | 
 being previously greased and placed in a sloping position, 
 so that the fat, &c.. which runs from the steak may be 
 prevented as much as possible from dropping into the fire, 
 lay the steak on it, and let it remain on one side till it 
 begins to look brown ; turn it on the other side, and if any 
 gravy collect in the steak, take the steak off the gridiron 
 with a steak-tongs and pour the gravy into the dish ; re¬ 
 turn it to the gridiron and broil it till the other side is 
 brown and done as you desire it: for here it will be neces¬ 
 sary to dress it to the taste of the person who is to eat it; 
 some require it little, others much, and some only mode¬ 
 rately done: this must be determined by cutting it a little 
 open with a knife. Some will have the steaks salted and 
 peppered before they are dressed; others prefer such sea¬ 
 soning after they are done and laid in the dish with bits of 
 butter on them. Some will also serve them up with 
 chopped onions or shalots mixed with the gravy in the 
 dish ; others choose neither. Scraped horse-radish is always 
 desirable ; you may also send up a garnish of pickles. 
 
 Note .—We direct the steaks to be turned but once ; 
 but a lady, an excellent cook, of our acquaintance, turns 
 
 
BROILING.-BEEF SKIRT, MUTTON CHOPS. 65 
 
 them very often; choose, therefore, which method you 
 please: both with proper management are g'ood. 
 
 BEEF-SKIRT, next to a rump-steak, is a very nice 
 dish; it should be dressed as soon as convenient after the 
 ox is killed and skinned before it is broiled ; it contains a 
 larger quantity of gravy and is very tender. Some broil it 
 first and take the skin off afterwards, and think it the best 
 way. 
 
 MUTTON-CHOPS are best taken from the loin or from 
 the neck ; the chief fault of the mutton-chops met with in 
 London is that they are eaten too soon after the sheep has 
 been killed, and hence not tender. The skin and part of 
 the fat should be taken off, then lay them on the gridiron 
 and turn them often till they are done. Some season them 
 with salt and pepper when they are half done ; others after 
 they are done, when they may be rubbed over with butter: 
 pour on them also some minced shalot, mixed with a little 
 catchup. Serve them up with scraped horse-radish and 
 pickles. 
 
 Note, to keep the gridiron slanting, as directed for 
 beef-steaks, and for the same reasons. Mutton-chops are 
 commonly, as w r ell as beef-steaks, preferred more or less 
 underdone, but we really see no substantial reason for this 
 preference. 
 
 PORK-CHOPS may be cut either from the loin or 
 neck ; they should be broiled in the same way as the pre¬ 
 ceding, but in pork the skin is a desideratum if well done, 
 as pork-chops ought always to be. Strew a little pepper on 
 them, turn them often; wdien done, put on a little salt 
 and butter ; a little minced sage, mixed with a little gravy, 
 will improve the flavour. Mustard is, perhaps, the only 
 necessary sauce. 
 
 A CHICKEN must be slit down the back, seasoned 
 with pepper and salt, and laid on the gridiron at a good 
 istance from the fire, in order that it may not be burnt, 
 roil the inside till it is nearly done, turn it, and take 
 are that the other side does not burn ; broil it till it be- 
 
 ! omes a nice brown. Serve it up with good gravy, to 
 ,'hich add some mushrooms, or some parsley and butter, 
 shalot minced, and a glass of wine. To this some add 
 
66 BROLING.—PIGEON, VEAL CUTLETS, &C. 
 
 scalded sorrel. Garnish with lemon and the livers and 
 gizzards broiled with pepper and salt. 
 
 A PIGEON, either whole or split, must also be broiled 
 slowly like a chicken. When whole, put some parsley, 
 chopped fine, with pepper, salt, and half an ounce ofii 
 butter into the belly, tying up both ends. If split, season 
 the inside with pepper and salt; when done, serve it up 
 with parsley and butter, to which some add pickled mush¬ 
 rooms or catchup. 
 
 Note .—That some brush the pigeon over with the yolk 
 of an egg, and then sprinkle over it grated bread beforeeS 
 laying it on to broil. 
 
 VEAL-CUTLETS, LAMB-CHOPS, and KIDNEYS 
 
 may, from the preceding observations, be easily broiled ; 
 kidneys ought to be cut into two. Veal cutlets should 
 be sent up with slices of ham or bacon. 
 
 STURGEON should be cut into cutlets, similar to those 
 of veal, then broiled, and then rubbed over with butte T 
 and pepper ; or they may be rubbed with the yolk of an 
 egg, over which are strewed minced parsley and crumbs oi l 
 bread. Serve up with melted butter, oyster, or anchovy 
 sauce. 
 
 Note .—Some inclose the cutlets in buttered paper and 
 broil them in it, but this does not appear necessary; it is, 
 however, necessary to free them from the skin before they 
 are laid on the gridiron. 
 
 FRESH SALMON must be cut into slices of about ar. 
 inch thick and wiped dry r ; dip them in sw r eet oil and season 
 with pepper and salt; or, instead of oil, dip them in some 
 melted butter and broil them ; when they are done on one 
 side turn them on the other. Serve up with melted butter 
 lobster, or shrimp sauce. 
 
 Note .—Some recommend instead of these a sauce inte 
 which leeks, capers, and anchovies enter, besides othei 
 ingredients. Some also advise the salmon’s being broilec 
 in buttered paper ; but baking is altogether better for this 
 fish.—See Baking Salmon, page 59. 
 
 DRIED SALMON should soak in water for a few hours 
 before it is broiled; shake over it a little pepper; whei 
 done, serve it up with melted butter. 
 
 COD should be cut into slices about two inches thick 
 
BROILING.—COD, MACKAREL, MULLET, &C. 67 
 
 and then dried and floured well; rub the gridiron over with 
 chalk, lay the pieces of cod on it, and turn them often till 
 they are brown. Serve with lobster and shrimp sauce. 
 
 CRIMP COD. Take a middle-sized cod, and after it 
 is properly cleansed, cut it into slices of about two inches 
 thick ; dissolve a handful of salt in a gallon of water by 
 boiling-, taking- off the skum, put the slices of cod into this 
 hot brine, and boil them for a few minutes; take them out, 
 drain them on a sieve, flour them, and broil them. Serve 
 up with lobster, shrimp, or oyster sauce. 
 
 Note. —Cod thus prepared may be also boiled or fried 
 as well as broiled. 
 
 CODS’ SOUNDS should be first soaked in hot water 
 for a short time, then rubbed well with salt, the dirty skin 
 11 taken off, and afterwards boiled, or rather simmered, till 
 they become tender; take them out of the water, flour 
 ie Them, season with salt and pepper, and boil them whole. 
 ei Serve them up with melted butter and mustard; some use, 
 1C in addition, brown gravy and a little soy. 
 
 MACKAREL being cleansed, and their heads cut off, 
 take out the roes at the neck end and boil them in a little 
 water, and bruise them with a spoon; beat up the yolk of 
 * an egg with a little nutmeg, lemon peel, thyme, parsley 
 ^ -boiled, and all chopped fine; a little salt, pepper, and a few 
 ie ! crumbs of bread; mix the whole together, and stuff it into 
 the bellies of the fish, flour them well and broil. Serve up 
 81 With melted butter and catchup or walnut pickle. 
 
 5(111 Or mackarel may be split down the back, sprinkled with 
 M herbs and pepper, and then broiled. 
 
 1)1 A MULLET being scaled, gutted, and having gashes in 
 its sides, should be dipped in melted butter and broiled 
 lowly. Serve it up with melted butter, having an anchovy 
 b ind some capers chopped in it, together with the juice of a 
 •t' 1 femon. 
 
 oi A TROUT, TENCH, PERCH, or GRAYLING, being 
 iroperly cleansed, and dried with a cloth, must be dipped 
 k a melted butter, having a good deal of salt in it; after 
 ioi * eing in the butter a minute or two, take it out and place 
 on a gridiron so that it may broil gradually. It may be 
 erved up with crimped parsley and plain butter ; some use 
 tlsi 
 
68 BROILING. — WHITING, HADDOCK, &C. 
 
 instead, anchovy, capers, nutmeg, pepper, salt, and vinegar, 
 mixed with butter, as a sauce. But this is not the only 
 unnecessary complication of which, in our work, we have ' 
 to complain. 
 
 WHITING, HADDOCK, and other similar fish, after 
 being gutted and cleansed, dried with a cloth, rubbed over 
 with vinegar, which (it is said) prevents the skin from 
 breaking, and well dredged with flour, may then be broiled; : 
 but while broiling, they should be turned two or three times. 
 Serve them up with melted butter or shrimp sauce. 
 
 HERRINGS, having their head cut off, must be gutted, 
 scaled, washed, dried with a cloth, floured, and then laid 
 on a gridiron to broil; they need only be turned once. They 
 may be served up with vinegar and mustard ; some make a 
 sauce with the heads boiled in ale or small beer, with pep¬ 
 per and an onion, for a quarter of an hour, when it is 
 strained off, and thickened with butter, flour, and a good 
 deal of mustard ; but this is another complication to whichl 
 w r e cannot set our signature of approbation. 
 
 SPRATS require no preparation for broiling’ whatevei 
 except simple purification, and being dredged with flour. 
 You may eat them with what sauce you please ; mustard is, 
 however, with many, a favourite condiment. We believe 
 that boiling is the best mode of dressing sprats. 
 
 EELS being skinned, cleansed, and dried, rub them 
 over with the yolk of an egg, and then sprinkle crumbs oi 
 bread on them, mixed with chopped parsley and sage; 
 season with pepper and salt; baste them with butter, and 
 broil. Serve up with parsley and butter. 
 
 EELS SPITCHCOCKED may be dressed thus : having 
 prepared them as directed in the last article, turn them 
 backwards and forwards and skewer them; broil till they 
 are a fine brown, not forgetting to rub the gridiron wit! 
 beef suet previously to placing the eels on it. Serve them 
 up with plain melted butter. 
 
 Some dress them as follows: after proper purification, 
 they must be slit down the back, the bone taken out, and 
 then cut into three or four pieces. Put the yolk of an egg 
 over the inside ; sprinkle on them some crumbs of bread, 
 sweet herbs and parsley chopped fine, grated nutmeg, pep- 
 
BROILING. (39 
 
 j per and salt. Broil, and when of a light brown, serve them 
 up with anchovy sauce, and parsley and butter. Garnish 
 with parsley and horse-radish. 
 
 Others prepare them as last directed, but stew them with 
 butter, yolks of eggs, shalots chopped fine, and other sea¬ 
 soning, for a short time ; when taken out, sprinkle on them 
 crumbs of bread before you broil them. Sauce as above. 
 
 I Note. We have here, and elsewhere in our work, di¬ 
 rected the eels to be skinned ; but a practice has been 
 lately introduced of dressing them without skinning: we 
 see no objection to this method; the cook ought, however, 
 to take care that the eels are effectually killed by dividing- 
 the head from the back-bone before she subjects them to 
 any cooking process. 
 
 
 Nota Bene. 
 
 Our council of cooks about broiling declare 
 
 That no steaks, howe’er cook’d, can with broiling compare • 
 
 I hat broiling’s a process they much must commend • ’ 
 
 Ol poor man it’s always the readiest friend : ’ 
 
 Return d trom his labour and seated at night 
 
 Beside a >varm hearth and a fire burning bright. 
 
 While his children in gambols around his knees play. 
 
 And his wife with delight hails the close of the day' 
 
 A rasher of bacon, a chop, or a fish, 
 
 Becomes on his coals a most exquisite dish! 
 
 f 
 
CHAPTER VI. 
 
 FRYING. 
 
 Keep still good temper always near ; 
 
 And let your fire be bright and clear; 
 ATTENTION must your handmaid be. 
 
 And never let her from you flee. 
 
 What time you fry, what time you broil ,— 
 Her absence soon the food will spoil;— 
 Add gentle motion now and then— 
 
 A proof that you your duty ken ; 
 
 And thus, with care, a little sense. 
 
 Your dish becomes all excellence ! 
 
 General Observations. — Care must be taken tha 
 the frying pan be not only kept clean, but more especially 
 made clean, if it be not previously so, before putting the 
 article to be fried into it. Some of our Cookery books ini 
 judiciously direct that it should be properly tinned ; but : 
 should not be tinned at all ; for one good and sufficier. 
 reason, among others, namely, that as sometimes the hea 
 applied in frying will be so great as to melt the tin, smal 
 particles of it will come off and spoil the appearance of the! 
 dish. But, w r hen the frying pan is not tinned, it is essen 
 tial that it should be made of iron, a wholesome metal. I 
 is true that, by long use, iron frying pans will wear out 
 but this must be submitted to. It will be, however, a goo< 
 practice when the pan is cleaned before putting it aside fo 
 future use, to rub it over well with some beef or mutton 
 suet, (not dripping, as this may contain salt,) in order mon 
 effectually to prevent its rusting. 
 
 Lard, dripping, and other melted fats,* and even goo< 
 olive oil, are generally to be preferred to butter in frying 
 because this last contains a portion of butter-milk, whicl 
 will make it froth and prevent the butter from acquiring the 
 heat necessary to the proper dressing of the article to b< 
 fried ; if, indeed, butter can be obtained without any water} 
 fluid, which it scarcely, if ever, can, it may be applied ii 
 frying as other melted fats; (see Clarified Butter 
 page 23,) but these last are, nevertheless, the best. 
 
 I }[t 
 
 * For the best method of purifying these see under BoiliDg 
 
 p. 22. 
 
FRYING. 
 
 71 
 
 Yet the French, from whom we may, beyond question, 
 obtain a useful lesson in cookery now and then, say that 
 frying is the finest and the most delicate when good olive- 
 oil is employed.*' But, with the economical, its price in this 
 country much impedes its use; lard, after oil, is that to 
 which preference should be given. 
 
 In frying animal food generally, whether fish or flesh, 
 the fat should be made nearly to boil f in the pan before 
 the article is put in, unless otherwise directed. In regard 
 t o Jlsh, besides this condition, they should be previously 
 dried in a cloth and floured; they are also, before being put 
 into the pan, (as well as indeed occasionally cutlets, &c.) 
 sometimes brushed over with the yolk of an egg, and then 
 strewed with crumbs of bread in order to render them what 
 is esteemed a more elegant brown ; but, where proper atten¬ 
 tion has been paid to the frying, this process is not necessary. 
 u . i le art * c J e to be fried need not be wholly covered with the 
 ifat J but ^ is quite necessary that, if all the fat be dissi¬ 
 pated before the article is done, more of it should be added 
 Jto prevent burning. 
 
 "1 French, who are often loo particular in these things, 
 
 nect that a thin paste should be made with fine flour, the 
 Folks of eggs, a little beer or brandy, and a small quantity 
 3 °iithe paste should be made so thin as to run; and 
 hey direct that every thing to be fried must be enveloped 
 n it; they are even so nice as to say that it should be pre¬ 
 pared at least two hours before it is used. 
 
 The reader will perceive that we have been somewhat 
 
 {■ 
 
 
 "uisinier et de la Cuisiniere, Par P. Cardelli. 
 dition. 
 
 t The heat of fat, as regards this department of cookery, may be 
 
 Tminprl hr a Kif _. J ^ 
 
 e .termined by a bit of bread being put into it: if it become crisp 6 
 is hot enough; if the bread burn, it is too hot; but the fat’s ceasing 
 
 * '“ M. a j s 11 est reconnu que e’est avec la bonne huile d’olive que 
 t . ur , es tes^plus fines,_lesj>lus delicates.” Manuel de 
 
 Paris, 1827, 5th 
 
 ' make a crackling noise in the pan will be, for ordinary purposes 5 
 sufficient criterion. It is better to have it below than at or above 
 burning heat, as excessive heat will impart a bad taste to it as 
 •ell as too often also to the article fried. The heat of boiling 
 a.ter is at the degree of 212° of Fahrenheit’s thermometer • that- 
 faxed oils and animal fats, which are in fact oils, is usually 
 tween five and six hundred. 
 
72 FRYING. — STEAKS, CUTLETS, CHOPS. 
 
 minute in our general directions for frying; but, we believe, 
 not more so than is necessary. The process is a very com¬ 
 mon, a very useful and an economical one; and we have, 
 therefore, bestowed no ordinary attention on these directions, 
 as well as indeed on the whole chapter. We have at¬ 
 tempted to simplify some of the processes ; that for soles 
 we may mention in particular, and having directed our per¬ 
 sonal attention to this dish with no ordinary solicitude, we 
 therefore confidently recommend our method to the notice 
 of the cook and the economist. Acids, and particularly 
 vinegar and the acid of lemons, are ahoays acceptable 
 with fish. 
 
 Note that oatmeal may be employed as a substitute 
 for bread crumbs in the dressing of fish, as well as upon 
 many other occasions. 
 
 STEAKS, CUTLETS, and CHOPS, may be of the 
 same thickness as for broiling; but some choose to have 
 them thinner for frying ; there is no necessity for such 
 a change”: see the General Observations under Broiling. 
 
 To • insist upon the necessity of having a bright and 
 steady fire for frying may seem, after our motto, su¬ 
 perfluous ; yet there will be no harm in reminding the 
 cook that a smoky fire will sometimes spoil the dish ; that 
 unremitted attention is indispensable to frying; and that 
 occasional movement of the article in the pan either by 
 shaking or otherwise is absolutely necessary, or it will be 
 burnt and spoiled. 
 
 BEEF STEAKS. If we wanted any proof of the abso¬ 
 lute necessity of reform in cookery, we may find it in the 
 different directions in our Cookery Books for dressing beef 
 steaks; some are so complicated that nobody will follow 
 them; others recommend butter, when, as we have seen 
 above, butter is the worst possible fat for frying. The fol¬ 
 lowing is our own method : put the steaks into a frying 
 pan having in it some sv^eet dripping made hot; after the 
 steak is done on one side turn it on the other, and there let j 
 it remain, moving it, of course, occasionally till it is done. 
 
 Note. —It may be turned often if you choose ; but, pro¬ 
 vided it be frequently moved, often turning is not abso¬ 
 lutely necessary. You may serve up the steak alone with 
 
FRYING. — MUTTON CHOPS, VEAL-CUTLETS. 73 
 
 merely a bit of butter over it, if it bs so desired. Or a 
 little beef gravy may be put into the pan after the steak 
 is taken out, together with minced onion or shalot, which 
 should be boiled in the gravy for a few minutes, and 
 then poured over the steak. Horse radish will always be 
 acceptable as a garnish. 
 
 Note, that tastes being so very different as to the de¬ 
 gree to which beef steaks should be dressed, nothing will 
 determine this but by consulting the wishes of those who 
 are to eat them ; some like them done little, others without 
 the least red in them. Care should always be taken to 
 obtain tender beef, as a tough beef steak is a troublesome 
 viand : therefore, beef which has been killed three or four 
 days, if sweet, is better than that which has been just killed. 
 (See Broiling, page 64.) The same may be said of 
 
 MUTTON CHOPS, which should be obtained from a 
 neck or loin that has hung for several days. The method 
 of frying them is so similar to that of beef steaks, that there 
 is no occasion to say more about them. They should, how¬ 
 ever, be often turned, and are, perhaps, best seasoned when 
 about half or more done. 
 
 VEAL CUTLETS are usually directed to be dipped in 
 or rubbed over with the yolk of eggs beaten fine, over 
 which some crumbs of bread are strewn together with some 
 sweet herbs, grated lemon peel, and a little nutmeg, and 
 then fried with fresh butter; but as they are usually served 
 up with fried bacon or ham, surely lard, sweet dripping, or 
 the bacon being previously fried, will afford a better and 
 more economical fat for frying them. The cook will adopt 
 which of these two methods she pleases; but the last, with 
 the addition of nutmeg and lemon peel from the first, wall 
 be the most simple, and in fact the best. The cutlets 
 should be completely done, without the least red in them. A 
 good gravy may be served up with them; some shake a 
 little flour into the pan after the cutlets are taken out, and 
 then put in the gravy w r ith the juice of a lemon and a little 
 butter; give it a boil up and pour it over the cutlets. 
 Sliced lemon is a necessary garnish, at least for those who 
 are not contented with plain stimulation. For Scotch 
 Scollops see our chapter on Made Dishes. 
 
 E 
 
74 FRYING. — VENISON, LAMB CHOPS, TRIPE. 
 
 VENISON must be cut into slices, and a gravy be made 
 from the bones; it should be fried a light brown ; when done, 
 keep it hot; then put some butter rolled in flour into the 
 pan, which must be stirred till it is thick and brown: to 
 this add half a pound of powdered lump sugar, the gravy 
 previously obtained from the bones, four ounces of port 
 wine, and the juice of one lemon ; the hot venison must now 
 
 be put into this gravy (which should be about the consis¬ 
 tence of cream) in order to be made hot with it; lastly, 
 put it into the dish and pour the sauce over it. . 
 
 Note, that in adding wine of any kind to gravies, the cook 
 should remember that, in order to preserve the flavour of 
 the wine complete, the gravy should not be boiled after the 
 wine is added to it: for boiling will dissipate the purest and 
 best part of the wine; namely, its spirit and the essential 
 oil which it may contain. Indeed, a frying- pan is a Pad 
 vessel to put wine in at all, as it presents so large a surface 
 
 to the air. , . ,, 
 
 LAMB CHOPS from the neck or loin are usually 
 
 dressed as veal cutlets, for which see above; but the best 
 way of dressing and seasoning- them is the same as for mut¬ 
 ton chops ; they may be served up with fried crumbs of bread 
 and crimped parsley; and, if you please, a few aromatic 
 herbs: such young and innutricious food seems to require 
 an additional stimulant to render it palatable. _ Some fry 
 lamb chops in ale, and then mix some lvhite wine, capers, 
 the yolks of eggs beaten fine, nutmeg, salt, and the liquoi 
 in which the chops are fried for a sauce which must be made 
 hot in the pan, and in which the chops are to be immersed 
 for a short time. But see what is said above, and also in the 
 note in the preceding article in regard to wine. 
 
 TRIPE, when fried, is by many an esteemed dish. 
 It may be cut into pieces about two inches wide, and three 
 or more inches long; prepare a thick batter of nnlk, flour, 
 and eggs, or rather with prepared barley or pure starch 
 instead of flour; let the pieces be dipped m the batter and 
 then fried in beef dripping till they become a light brown. 
 Serve them up with melted butter, not forgetting mustard. 
 
 OX TONGUES, previously boiled till they are tender, 
 must be cut into slices and seasoned with a little nutmeg 
 
FRYING.' 
 
 -neat’s foot, sweetbreads, See. 
 
 /O 
 
 or Other spice at your pleasure, to which some add suo-ar 
 Ihe yolk of an egg mixed with a little lemon juice is aim 
 to be rubbed over them with a feather. Make some butter 
 01 , what is better, good beef dripping boiling hot in the pan 
 “ d lnt0 Jt the slices ; when properly done serve them 
 udne‘ th aSaUCe Com P osed of meIted butter, sugar, and white 
 
 A NEAT’S FOOT must be boiled till it is tender and 
 
 hen beV" l W °',Tx ““ the b ° neS talte ” out : the meat must 
 t whhe fr W,t u, U “ er .’ ° r , 8 ' 00d ,lri PP in g- Smne season 
 Me y a ” d , parS ' ey both n,i " ced and a 
 
 little salt. Ihe sauce may he good gravy, to which are 
 
 nZeT eS „l ed th % y °‘j £ ° f “ «** or two and a ,Ue 
 nutme B , the juice of a lemon or that of an orange. The 
 
 foot is usually served up with the sauce poured ove°r it. 
 
 Ut neats feet, cow heels, and calves’ feet this e-eneral 
 
 ouTntoTS r de > ‘Y 33 thc)r a “ COntaiQ • oooaiderable 
 quantity of gelatine, they are much better adapted for 
 
 soups and jellies, than for being dressed alone ; we may be 
 
 tolerably certam that, when any aliment requires a variety 
 
 as sohdTod ‘° " mke “ 1>alataWe ' !t is “* ™t desirable 
 
 SWEETBREADS must be cut into long slices, and then 
 rubbed over with the yolk of an egg; strew over them 
 pepper, salt, and grated bread, and fry them in butter 01 - 
 good dripping. They may be served with melted butter to 
 which some add catchup. The garnish may be parley 
 cusped and slices of bacon fried or broiled ; or ham. P 3 
 nother way . Cut your sweetbreads in small pieces 
 dip them in egg, and then in a seasoning of gratedVead 
 and a little pepper and salt; fry them a light brown • lay 
 t lem m your dish, and pour over them some good hot gravy 
 
 Garnish with small bits of bacon._Y. o iav )* 
 
 thev A o L1 ' S B , R ] AINS are also sometimes fried, althoimh 
 
 Calf’s HeZ ]TV S6rVed UP direCted under filing 
 V. however, a gourmand should desire this 
 
 dish fried, let the brain be cut into four or more pie^e 
 depending on its size, and soaked in broth and white wine’ 
 Bith slices of lemon, pepper, salt, thyme, cloves, shalot’ 
 and as many other condiments as pleasure or fancy mav 
 ■ug§est, for half an hour; wdien they must be taken out 
 
 e 2 
 
76 FRYING.—SAUSAGES, CHICKEN, POTATOES. 
 
 and dipped in a batter composed of white wine, a little olive 
 oil, and salt; fry them; but you may, previously to this 
 strew over them crumbs of bread mixed with the yo ts o 
 eggs. They may be served up with plain melted butter. 
 
 Garnish with fried parsley. „ , 
 
 SAUSAGES, whether of Pork or of Beef, require 
 scarcely any direction for being fried. In London and 
 most large towns they are usually sold m small guts a 
 fried in the state in which they are bought; but sausage- 
 meat made into small cakes and fried without the interven¬ 
 tion of any gut, particularly that of pork, is the best way of 
 their being dressed. For pork, in particular, lard is the 
 best fat. Sausages are sometimes fried with slices of apple 
 freed from the core; this is an elegant and agreeable way 
 of dressing them. The sausages should be placed m the 
 middle and the apples around them on the dish. Your 
 garnish maybe also apples cut into slices and fried, of course. 
 
 Note, that some parboil sausages before they fry them, 
 and this will be found a great improvement upon the usua 
 mode of dressing them. It should be observed also, that 
 those who prepare sausages in the large way, usually season 
 them with some of the aromatic herbs, pepper, &c.; but 
 we believe that salt and pepper are the only useful or neces¬ 
 sary condiments. , , 
 
 4 CHICKEN should be cut in quarters and prepared 
 with the yolk of an egg and the other articles mentioned 
 under Veal Cutlets above; they may be fried with good 
 dripping; some order fresh butter. Let a good gravy be 
 made from beef-steak, into which flour, or rather pure 
 starch, should be shaken, to which add a small quantity of 
 cayenne pepper, a little catchup, and lemon-puice. Serve the 
 chicken up with the sauce poured hot over it. 
 
 Various other Dishes, which it is not necessary here to 
 mention, may be fried according to the pleasure of the cook, 
 by attending to the general observations which we have 
 given above. There are, however, a few which, as eco¬ 
 nomical dishes, we may as well notice here. These are 
 POTATOES AND BACON, which form to a very 
 large portion of the rural population of this country a 
 wholesome and agreeable meal, not only as a dinner, but, 
 very often, after the toils of the day, a substantial supper. 
 
FRYING.— CABBAGE AND BACON. 
 
 77 
 
 We scarcely deem it necessary to direct the preparation 
 of this dish; we may, however, mention that the potatoes 
 should be previously boiled and then chopped small before 
 being 1 fried; that the best bacon for this purpose is the 
 fattest, and that the peasantry fry first the bacon, then 
 take it out of the pan, keeping it hot by the fire, and put 
 in the potatoes to the fat which the bacon has yielded, in 
 general enough for frying the potatoes ; they must be stirred 
 often during the operation; and they may, by careful 
 cooking, be made nicely and delicately brown. The bacon 
 may be served up on and around the potatoes, or in a 
 separate dish. To a good appetite no condiment, except 
 salt, is usually necessary, 
 
 Note, that fat bacon, for this purpose, is to be preferred 
 to streaky, or that containing more animal fibre, for the 
 reason above stated; and also because fat bacon is less 
 likely to produce thirst, a condition in eating any salt food 
 which it is desirable to avoid. 
 
 CABBAGE AND BACON form another of the dishes 
 to which we have just alluded. When they are fried, the 
 same method is to be adopted, and the cabbage must be pre¬ 
 viously boiled, as is directed for potatoes; the bacon should 
 also be fat for the same reason. If, however, the citizen 
 should desire streaky bacon to be fried with these homely 
 and wholesome, yet simple viands, he will have it, of course; 
 but let him beware of thirst. 
 
 BUBBLE AND SQUEAK, as every body knows, is 
 cold boiled beef cut into slices, (the round is generally 
 chosen,) and fried with, or rather fried before, the cabbage, 
 and then served up with it. The beef may be fried with 
 good dripping; when taken out the cabbage must be put in; 
 in general the fat required for the beef will be nearly suffi¬ 
 cient to fry the cabbage, as it is not desirable to make it 
 greasy; besides which it will be more savoury for being a 
 little and delicately browned; but, of course, care must be 
 taken not to burn it. The cabbage must be chopped smith, 
 like potatoes, before being fried. It may be seasone.'Ny'ith 
 salt and pepper. The sauce may be almost what yo t' dase. 
 Acids are generally very agreeable; common vim dffi- adds 
 to this dish. - V V 
 
 EGGS AND BACON form another Tiea« lca l dish. 
 
78 
 
 FRYING.— EGGS AND BACON. 
 
 The same observations apply to the bacon employed here as 
 in the preceding dishes; but we suppose that the citizen 
 must have his streaky bacon. In frying - the eggs, care 
 must be taken not to fry the yolk so as to be hard, two mi¬ 
 nutes are generally enough ; some like them fried only on 
 one side; others like them a little browned on both. Eggs 
 are also sometimes fried by being tossed into the frying-pan 
 and chopped during their frying, so that the white and 
 yolk become mixed together. This is a homely country 
 dish, concerning which a singular anecdote may be men¬ 
 tioned.* 
 
 * About sixty years ago goose eggs, in Somersetshire, were, 
 among the farmers in the lowland districts contiguous to the ex¬ 
 tensive moors then uninclosed, a common dish. An apprentice 
 maid, somewhat noted for an egregious appetite, was set to fry 
 some goose eggs for her own dinner ; her mistress ordered her to 
 take about half a dozen. One of her young masters, a wag, con¬ 
 trived to get her out of the kitchen for a short time, during which 
 he cracked into the pan in which the eggs were frying about 
 twenty more ; they were all chopped tip together, and the girl, on 
 her return, ate the whole, with bacon, of course. This obtained 
 for her ever afterwards the name of Sal Goose-egg-. It occurred at 
 Huntspill. The writer of this knew the woman and all her mas¬ 
 ter’s family well. It may not be inopportune here to observe, that 
 a large appetite is very commonly accompanied by mental igno¬ 
 rance. This woman, having been a parish apprentice, could 
 neither read nor write; and it was the then narrow and mistaken, 
 and even now it is to be feared it still is, the too common policy of 
 many of the farmers of this country to avoid instructing their me¬ 
 nials in the commonest rudiments of literature. Now, although 
 we are not advocates for a learned education per se at all, thinking, 
 as we do, that learning is rather calculated to make the possessors 
 of it pedants than any thing else, yet, surely, without a knowledge 
 of their duties, how can servants become dutiful, obedient, and 
 good members of a family, as well as of the society in which they 
 move? and how are they to know their duties without being in¬ 
 structed concerning them ? We shall say more on this sulyect in 
 
 the Introduction. 
 
 Concerning great eaters generally, we may state, that we have 
 known several, not only in the lowest, but in the independent ranks 
 ordifg ; in most, as well the poor as the rich and independent, w'e 
 hav tund similar ignorance; we should, therefore, say, as an 
 e con of, alproc.ss in regard to food, education, even for the poor, 
 is desir >le If man be retained in the state of a mere animal and 
 know li p‘ more than his animal wants, a mere animal he will re¬ 
 main. k'»nt!o\him, employ his mind in a variety of useful and 
 interesting ixl ,y\nuch of the animal is sunk, and the mind pre- 
 
 t/. v 
 
FRYING. —*- OMELETTES. 
 
 79 
 
 OMELETTES are decidedly French dishes, into which 
 eggs generally enter; and, for this purpose, they should be 
 taken from the shells and beaten well with a spoon or fork, 
 and seasoned with salt, nutmeg, parsley, and other condi¬ 
 ments which may be chosen, at the pleasure of the cook. 
 From four to twelve eggs are the usual number employed 
 in it. They are also usually fried in a pan called an 
 omelette-pan , (which is simply a small frying-pan,) with 
 butter.* 
 
 A COMMON OMELETTE maybe thus made: take 
 six eggs, well beaten up with a little salt and parsley, chopped 
 tine, and other condiments at pleasure; melt some butter in 
 the pan; when it is hot put in the omelette and fry it till 
 it is done, taking care to move it during the time it is frying, 
 so that it may not burn. It should be served, when done, 
 with the under side, which will be brown, turned upwards 
 in the dish. If you desire the top to be brown as well as 
 the bottom, a hot salamander, or shovel, should be held 
 over it, to give it the colour desired; or some will turn it 
 in the pan, and thus brown both sides without the assistance 
 of the salamander. 
 
 Note , that the principal care in dressing an omelette 
 consists, as in frying or boiling of eggs, in not doing it too 
 much; for if done hard, it will be neither pleasant nor 
 wholesome to he eaten. 
 
 OMELETTES MUCH MORE COMPLICATED are 
 made with the above and many other articles; such as good 
 gravy, mashed potatoes, forcemeats, ham, tongue, bacon, 
 veal kidnies, red herrings, anchovies, cream, sugar, milk, 
 some one or more of the spices, sweet basil tarragon, 
 truffles, lemon-peel, lemon thyme, and other sweet herbs, 
 shalots or onions, and olive oil instead of butter; one or 
 more of which may be introduced by the taste and direction 
 of the cook. The gravies for omelettes, as well as for most 
 
 dominates. To the rich this is a lesson which, we trust, for the f 
 individual happiness, as well as in furtherance of the power ^/t 
 riches confer in promoting the happiness of others, will l&Vfriu 
 forgotten. r..- 
 
 * The omelette is one of the few dishes for which butter, in fryLg 
 it, is the most suitable fat, chiefly when fresh and good, (which i* 
 ought to be for the omelette.) from its delicacy, and because the* 
 omelette is dressed with comparatively a moderate heat. 
 
80 
 
 FRYING. — OMELETTES, SOLES. 
 
 other dishes, as we have previously more than once stated, 
 should be thickened with pure starch in preference to flour. 
 Some, indeed, direct, in preparing an omelette, that the eggs 
 should be made into a batter with milk and a little flour; 
 but we see no necessity for either of these ingredients; you 
 may, however, if you please, make a batter with the eggs, 
 some pure starch, in powder, of course, and a little good 
 gravy. 
 
 Observe, that such articles as ham, veal kidnies, &c. 
 should be either minced or cut in dice before being mixed 
 with your omelette; veal kidnies should be also previously 
 boiled. Omelettes may be served up with the gravies or 
 sauces poured over them. 
 
 Looking- at omelettes dispassionately, we cannot avoid 
 considering most of them unnecessary dishes, and the most 
 so are those compounded of many ingredients; especially 
 bad are those having flour, cream, and sugar in them. It 
 is, nevertheless, very probable that, by mixing intimately 
 the yolk and the white of an egg and slightly dressing them 
 so as just to coagulate both, they may suit some stomachs 
 better than w T hen eggs are eaten after the other usual ways 
 of dressing them in this country; and therefore the common 
 omelette above, when slightly done, must be the best, or, at 
 least, the most wholesome, with the plainest condiments. 
 
 On Omelettes a Id Dctuphine, Omelettes d la Celestine, 
 Omelettes aux Truffes, Omelette Soufflee, &c. &c., w r e 
 cannot enlarge ; one, however, w r hich is very simple, and 
 called 
 
 OMELETTE A LA FERMIERE, we may here men¬ 
 tion. It is made by beating the eggs with chopped parsley, 
 pepper, salt, shalots and sorrel, as above directed for the 
 common omelette; when it is done, a piece of fried bread 
 is put on it. The omelette is rolled round and then served 
 up. 
 
 ik For FRIED BREAD CRUMBS and FRIED PARS- 
 ly/.Y, both much used with fried dishes, see our chapter on 
 >'preparation of Vegetables, under which will also be 
 
 hd a variety of other useful information concerning vege¬ 
 tables generally. 
 
 SOLES constitute one of the most valuable dishes of the 
 fish tribe ; and frying is by far the best method of pre- 
 
FRYING.— SOLES. 
 
 81 
 
 paring them for the table. They are so easily done, that no 
 directions seem necessary; yet, as even soles are sometimes 
 fried badly, the following may be useful. In the first place 
 the cook will be good enough to refer to our General Direc¬ 
 tions, at the commencement of this chapter, and pay parti¬ 
 cular attention to what is in them stated concerning fish. 
 In the next, she will take care that her fish is skinned and 
 gutted, retaining the roe; after being floured, it should 
 be put into the pan when the lard is boiling hot, and 
 kept moving, that it may not burn, till the under side 
 becomes brown; it must then be turned, with a fish-slice, on 
 the other side, and fried till that side becomes also brown, 
 when it may be taken out and served up with plain melted 
 butter, in a boat. Your garnishmay be green pickles, or slices 
 of lemon ; cayenne is a very useful addition; it is best added 
 at your pleasure on the plate ; vinegar is also a wholesome 
 and pleasant condiment. Some will have other sauces, but 
 soles do not require them. About two ounces of lard are 
 necessary to fry a sole of half a pound weight. If the frying 
 be properly conducted, there will be no necessity whatever 
 for rubbing the fish over with the yolk of egg or crumb of 
 bread; some will, how r ever, use both; others, instead of 
 bread, use biscuit powder. 
 
 Note, that when soles are properly fried, they require 
 turning but once. The time necessary depends upon their 
 size; a sole of half a pound weight will take, at least, five 
 or six minutes for each side; large ones will require 
 more time ; smaller somew'hat less. Much depends upon 
 the regularity and intensity of the fire. 
 
 Of soles, as food, we can scarcely speak too highly ; they 
 agree with almost every stomach, and they are devoid of 
 that rankness of smell, as well as of taste, which is so offen¬ 
 sive to many persons, in the herring, and, indeed, in most 
 of the more oleous tribe of fishes. We may just add, that 
 if you desire your soles to be particularly nice, fry them in 
 good olive oil; and it may be useful to know that cold fried 
 sole, if eaten with vinegar and salt, is a delicate dish, and 
 very similar in taste to shrimps. Soles, when fried and kept 
 in a dry place, will remain good for two or three days; if 
 you wish them hot, they maybe made so in a Dutch oven. 
 
 These directions for soles may be applied to most other 
 
 e 3 
 
82 
 
 FRYING. — TURBOT, CARP. 
 
 flat flsh ; the turbot is, however, sometimes treated dif¬ 
 ferently ; with what propriety will be presently seen. 
 
 A TURBOT is usually boiled; but occasionally small 
 ones are fried ; large ones are not suited to this process. 
 The following directions will be found, in substance, in 
 several of our respectable cookery books. After being 
 cleansed, dried, and floured, put it into the pan with boiling 
 lard or dripping, nearly enough to cover it; fry it till it is 
 brown, turning it once; take it from the pan, while 
 you clean it from the fat, and then put the flsh again into 
 the pan, with claret or white wine, almost enough to 
 cover it, to which add an anchovy, salt, nutmeg, and a little 
 ginger. Stew the fish in this liquor till it is half wasted. 
 Then take out the fish, and add to the liquor a piece of butter 
 rolled in flour and a minced lemon. Let them simmer till the 
 gravy is of a proper thickness ; rub a hot dish with shalot: 
 lay the turbot in the dish and pour the hot sauce over it. 
 
 A more injudicious and expensive method of dressing this 
 fish could scarcely be given. If it should be determined to 
 stew it in wine after it is, in effect, done in the frying-pan, 
 it ought to be put into a stew-pan and covered as closely as 
 possible, in order that the aromatic and spirituous portion of 
 the wine might not escape; but to boil wine in an open 
 frying-pan, is an absurdity which we may hope, for the credit 
 of the age, will be henceforward set aside. We question, 
 besides, the utility of using wine in dressing this fish, in 
 any way; if a sauce be made with wine, that spirituous 
 liquor should not be boiled at all, at least, not in an open 
 vessel; but be added to the sauce just before it is served up, 
 and only heated sufficiently to mix well with the rest of the 
 ingredients. 
 
 Note, we might have passed over the article Turbot, in 
 this chapter, by simply naming it under the general head of 
 other flat fish, as mentioned above; but as w T e are reformincj 
 cooks, we trust this comment will not be without its use. 
 
 A CARP being scaled, gutted, and otherwise cleansed, 
 must be floured and then fried of a light brown, turning it 
 ‘j once, of course. Fry some slices of bread cut three-corner 
 ’ ways, with the roes. The sauce may be butter, anchovy, 
 and lemon-juice. It should be served up with the roes 
 around it. Your garnish, slices of lemon and fried bread. 
 
FRYING. — TROUT, PERCII, TENCH, EELS. 83 
 
 Note, this fish, if large, is not adapted for frying ; it is 
 more commonly boiled or stewed. Tench are sometimes 
 fried, (after being opened, the back bone taken out, and 
 stuffed with some of their own flesh minced, bread soaked 
 in cream, and a variety of spices, yolks of eggs, butter, and 
 sweet herbs), in clarified butter. When they are done a nice 
 brown, they are taken from the pan, the pan being cleaned, 
 and then put into it again and stewed with butter, wine, water, 
 truffles, morels, oysters, catchup, &c. ; at once a trouble¬ 
 some and expensive dish, which w T e cannot recommend. 
 
 ■ See below. 
 
 TROUT must have the fins and tail cut off, then be 
 cleaned, gutted, dipped in or brushed over with the yolk of 
 an egg, and bread crumbs or oatmeal shaken over them ; 
 fry them in good dripping; they must be turned once. 
 Your sauce may be butter, with catchup and lemon juice; 
 or plain butter with crisped parsley. 
 
 Note, we believe that this is the best way of dressing- 
 trout; and very preferable to boiling it, unless it be large, 
 i. e. more than a pound weight. 
 
 PERCH, TENCH, and GRAYLING may be fried in the 
 same manner as trout, which see above. 
 
 SMELTS must have the gills taken away, in doing which 
 the guts may also be drawn out, but the roes and milts 
 should remain ; after being washed and well dried with a 
 cloth, brush these over with the yolk of an egg and strew 
 crumbs of bread on them. Fry them in lard or good drip¬ 
 ping. When they are done a nice brown, drain them ; they 
 are sometimes dished thus : invert a bason in the middle of 
 the dish, and lay the tails of the fish on the sides of it: 
 this is an old fashioned and, it would seem, unnecessary 
 fancy. Garnish with crisped parsley. Your sauce may be 
 melted butter. 
 
 Note, some direct the smelts on being cleansed, not to be 
 washed at all, but to be wiped with a cloth; others say 
 that they should not be washed more than is necessary. 
 
 EELS, after being skinned, the heads cut off, cleansed 
 and cut into pieces of about three or four inches long, 
 seasoned with pepper, and salt, and flour, being strewed 
 over them, may be fried in lard or sweet dripping, till they 
 are of a nice brown, being, of course, kept moving and 
 
 / 
 
84 FRYING. — LAMPREYS, MULLET, OYSTERS. 
 
 turned once or more in the pan. Some will dip them in the 
 yolk of an egg and shake on them fine bread crumbs before 
 frying them. Butter with lemon juice may be the sauce ; 
 or parsley and butter. Crisped parsley may be your 
 garnish. 
 
 Note, that we consider this and broiling the most econo¬ 
 mical method of dressing eels ; because all the nutrition is 
 retained in them; whereas, by boiling, much of it is dis¬ 
 solved in the water; unless, indeed, the broth be eaten as 
 well as the boiled eels; eel broth is by many considered a 
 pleasant dish. 
 
 LAMPREYS are in part fried and afterwards stewed. 
 See, therefore, Lampreys under Stewing. 
 
 MULLETS, after being scaled, gutted, and otherwise 
 cleansed, should be scored across the back, and then be 
 fried in clarified butter; some dip them in melted butter 
 previously to frying them ; but this does not appear neces¬ 
 sary. Serve them up with melted butter and anchovy. 
 
 HERRINGS maybe fried in butter ; serve them up with 
 crisped parsley, melted butter and parsley, and mustard. 
 Some serve them up also with fried onions. 
 
 OYSTERS for frying should be chosen large ; after they 
 are properly cleansed, mix together a little grated nutmeg, 
 a bit of powdered mace, a spoonful of flour, and a little 
 salt; strew this mixture over the oysters, and then fry them 
 in lard of a nice brown. Serve them up with melted butter 
 mixed with crumbs of bread, poured over them. 
 
 WHITE BAIT. This fish, which is almost peculiar to 
 the Thames, has long excited the epicurean citizens of 
 London, 
 
 “ Who oft to Blackwall or to Greenwich repair. 
 
 In parties to feast on this delicate fare.” 
 
 It was for a long time believed to be the young of some 
 fish, and, therefore, it was prohibited from being taken ; 
 but the researches of naturalists, and particularly those of 
 Mr. Yarrell, an account of which has appeared in 
 several publications, prove that it is a distinct species, and 
 found wil^h spawn in it in the spring and early summer 
 months, during which time it may be obtained at the fish¬ 
 mongers in London. It is a white fish, as its name im- 
 
FRYING. — WHITE BAIT. 
 
 85 
 
 ports, and a very small one ; the smallest, indeed, that is 
 found in the London markets ; it is usually about two inches 
 long. We have been favoured with a communication from 
 Mr. Yarrell concerning white bait, which u r e here lay 
 before our readers: 
 
 “ This little fish belongs, (like its supposed parent the 
 shad,) to the old genus Clupea of Linnaeus ; I had only, 
 therefore, to bestow a specific name, and from its prevailing 
 external colour and our own English term for it, ivas in¬ 
 duced to adopt that of alba—Clupea alba. The French, 
 who did not admit it as a species before, now call it very 
 truly the white bite des A?iglois.” 
 
 For the mode of dressing this fish we are also indebted to 
 Mr. Yarrell. 
 
 “ They should be laid in folds of cloth till they are quite 
 dry, shaken in a hag with flour, and then be dipped in a 
 thin batter made with a dessert spoonful of flour, one egg, 
 and a little milk. As they are too delicate and tender to be 
 turned in a frying-pan, they should be laid separately on a 
 small fish-strainer and sunk into boiling lard for about two 
 minutes. Some will, however, employ sweet olive oil. 
 
 “ Thus much for the mode of cooking 1 , which is managed 
 in its greatest perfection at the taverns of Greenwich and 
 Blackwall; at least, I have never yet seen them so well 
 cooked elsewhere.” 
 
 We believe, however, that one of the chief causes of the 
 superior cooking of this fish at the places mentioned, con¬ 
 sists in their being obtained quite fresh from the river : for 
 it is a very delicate fish, and soon becomes unfit for eating 
 after it is caught. 
 
 Note, it is our duty to lay before the reader this account 
 of white bait; at the same time we leave it to be dressed 
 and eaten by those who think such trifles w r orth their notice, 
 while many more useful and valuable fish are to be so 
 readily obtained. 
 
 I 
 
 
86 
 
 CHAPTER VII. 
 
 STEWING, HASHING, AND MINCING. 
 
 A comprehensive term is stew, 
 
 Well known to Kate, to Sally, Sue ; 
 Yet 'midst the annals of our art, 
 Stewing bears not deserved part— 
 
 A handmaid whom we might direct 
 Big bones and sinews to dissect. 
 Whence, with long coction, gelatine. 
 Emerges wholesome, aye, divine!— 
 Despis’d too oft, and most by those. 
 Whose narrow means prove deadly foes. 
 Her care is to prevent all waste ; 
 
 And never is she known to haste; 
 Prudence and neatness on her wait— 
 Her chief attendant gentle heat. 
 
 Stewing we, therefore, may employ 
 To add unto the poor man’s joy ; 
 
 And, if the Great will condescend. 
 
 To them she will become a friend. 
 
 A 
 
 4 
 
 General Observations. As our motto states, 
 Stewing, although well known as a term, has by no means 
 so much share in cooking as economy, in particular among 
 the middling and lower classes of society, requires. The 
 opprobrious term of pot-liquor has scared, we fear, many a 
 person from employing it; whereas, in the preparation of 
 stews it is, if from fresh animal food, a capital ingredient 
 when discreetly employed. 
 
 Although stew-pans are common appendages in the 
 establishment of a good kitchen, they are not often found in 
 the houses of those to whom stews, as economical dishes, 
 are most desirable. There is also another vessel called a 
 digester ,* which some friend of the poor, or some good 
 
 * On one occasion, some time since, a person lost his life by 
 some mismanagement and consequent explosion of a digester. 
 
lady bountiful contrived, to extract more effectually the 
 gelatine and other nutritious properties from bones; some 
 account of this utensil will be found in the Introduction; 
 it has not obtained by far so much use as even the stew- 
 pan; and although it might occasionally be of service by 
 administering- heat considerably above the boiling point, and 
 in part, at least, decomposing the bones, yet without great 
 care the earthy parts of the bones, i. e. the calcareous por¬ 
 tion of them, will become mixed with the liquor in the vessel 
 and impart an unpleasant flavour, and, in fact, spoil it: we 
 are not, therefore, advocates for its use, especially by those 
 who are not overburthened with discretion ; but advise in 
 | stewing the employment of a low and long continued heat 
 at or about the boiling point of water, 212° of Fahrenheit’s 
 f thermometer; it will be, how r ever, extremely useful in 
 subjecting sinews and even animal muscle, that is, meat as 
 well as indeed vegetables, to the process of stewing, to cut 
 I them into pieces and to break the bones also, so that not 
 l only the marrow may be got out, but that the water or 
 other vehicle employed may more readily act upon them. 
 
 We have alluded in our motto to the gelatine, obtained 
 more particularly from bones and sinews; and gelatine is 
 doubtless, a very nutricious substance ; but even gelatine, 
 when taken alone without the fibrous matter of animal 
 muscles, in other words meat, is not so well calculated to 
 1 support the animal body as a mixture of both most unques¬ 
 tionably is ; it is highly necessary, therefore, in the con¬ 
 coction of stews to bear this in mind. Even beef tea, as 
 some mistakingly call a decoction made with beef (see that 
 article under a subsequent chapter) is not so nutricious and 
 stimulant if given in a state of transparency, as when con¬ 
 taining a portion, more or less large, of the particles of 
 fibrin, floating in or otherwise mixed with it. It is of the 
 | first importance that this fact should be generally known. 
 
 ! We have however, fortunately, a succedaneum for the 
 fibrin of animal matter in good wheaten bread; and, 
 therefore, in stews or soups where fibrin is not, bread in 
 pretty large quantities ought to be employed; and it is 
 ! generally most agreeable when toasted in slices and mixed 
 with or otherwise eaten with the stew. We say bread 
 made of wheat, because no vegetable contains so much 
 
88 STEWING, HASHING, AND MINCING. 
 
 gluten, as that important seed ; and gluten is the most 
 allied of all vegetable substances to animal fibrin, which is, 
 apparently, a modification of albumen: that is, a substance 
 similar to the white of eggs.* 
 
 We may just add here concerning the vegetables having 
 gluten, that according to the experiments of Sir Humphry 
 Davy, wheat usually contains more than one fifth of its 
 bulk of gluten ; that rye and beans contain about one tenth 
 of the same ingredient; oats still less, barley not more than 
 about one eighteenth part of its bulk of gluten, and potatoes 
 and peas still less than this last proportion; and although 
 all the articles here mentioned contain an abundance of 
 starch, yet even of starch, wheat contains the most of them 
 all. It is, therefore, when properly prepared for the 
 human stomach, by far the most nutricious of vegetable 
 substances. See also our chapter on Vegetables. 
 
 Before we conclude these general observations, we trust 
 both interesting and useful, we may advert to the too com¬ 
 mon practice of putting at once into the stew, not only the 
 substantial ingredients, but also those more especially de¬ 
 signed to flavour it; such as sometimes wine, spices, horse¬ 
 radish, celery, and other aromatic plants or seeds. Now, 
 where the body added contains a spirit as wine, or an es¬ 
 sential oil as horse-radish or celery, and more especially the 
 seed of this last, or all or any of the spices, nothing can be 
 more absurd than subjecting them to the whole process of 
 stewing however long; for, by such a practice, most of the 
 volatile particles will assuredly be reduced to vapour by the 
 heat, and thus escape. The best general way will be for 
 such articles to be put in towards the end of the operation, 
 and not before ; indeed one of the most elegant methods of 
 flavouring soups as well as stews with celery in particular, 
 is to mix the seed with the soup or stew after it is served 
 
 * In confirmation of the view taken in this paragraph, of the 
 nutricious properties of animal food, we may here mention that 
 some years ago a fatal disease was very prevalent among the 
 prisoners in the Millbank Petiitentiary ; and, notwithstanding the 
 united efforts and skill of the medical officers of that establishment, 
 it swept away a great many of the inmates. It was at length, 
 however, discovered that the absence of fibrin, in other words 
 meat, in the soup eaten by the prisoners was the cause ; they were 
 supplied more plentifully with meat and (he disease ceased. 
 
STEWING, HASHING, AND MINCING. 89 
 
 up, and for this purpose celery seed should be placed in a 
 vessel at the table the same as pepper, salt, or other condi¬ 
 ments now are, in order that each guest may please him¬ 
 self. 
 
 It is fortunate for mankind that the most useful food, the 
 most durable stimuli , when subjected to ordinary heat, and 
 particularly to that of boiling water, do not, in general, un¬ 
 dergo any injurious change; but, on the contrary, are 
 usually better suited by it to the process of digestion; hence 
 in stews , to extract the nutritive properties of food, it is 
 best generally to employ a good deal of water, in order more 
 effectually to dissolve them, the superfluity of water readily 
 passing off during the process ; it is only in the addition of 
 condiments that our care in this respect is more especially 
 ; required. 
 
 Stew-pans in the kitchens of the opulent are sometimes 
 employed that are made of copper well tinned within; but 
 iron stew-pans are nevertheless, from their superior whole¬ 
 someness, to be preferred ; copper should, as much as possi¬ 
 ble, be avoided (from its well-known poisonous quality) in 
 j every vessel used in the preparation of food. 
 
 One word more on stews will be permitted us. To sub¬ 
 ject substantial dishes, such as a rump of beef, a fillet of 
 veal, or a leg’ of mutton, to the process of stewing, may 
 indeed afford pleasure to the luxurious; but as these are 
 most readily adapted either by boiling- or roasting-, as well 
 as by broiling and frying as steaks, to the human stomach, 
 to stew them is not only unnecessary, but, particularly with 
 the addition of a variety of condiments, a perversion of a 
 useful and important art. It would appear, therefore, that 
 stewing is more especially adapted to that food which boil¬ 
 ing or roasting does not make tender; and particularly to 
 those irregular and inconvenient pieces of animal food, as 
 swell as to that which is tough, w-hich cannot be served up 
 as a solid dish, but which stewing-renders, at once, palatable 
 and economical. It is scarcely necessary to add, that all 
 the scum which arises during stewing must be carefully 
 taken off, as well as indeed the fat if offensive or abundant. 
 
 From what has been said it cannot be supposed, that we 
 approve of the following directions (to be found almost 
 verbatim in many of our cookery-books) for stewing 
 
90 
 
 STEWING, HASHING, AND MINCING* 
 
 A RUMP OF BEEF.—It must be previously roasted 
 till about half done, and then put into a stew-pan with two 
 quarts of water and one of red wine, two or three blades of 
 mace, a shalot, two spoonfuls of walnut catchup, one of 
 lemon pickle, two of browning', and a little cayenne pepper 
 and salt. Let it stew over a gentle fire for two hours, 
 closely covered, then take out the beef, lay it on a deep 
 dish, skim off the fat and strain the gravy, into which put 
 an ounce of morels and half a pint of mushrooms ; thicken 
 the gravy, heating it of course, and then pour it over the 
 beef. Garnish with horse-radish and lay force-meat balls 
 around it. 
 
 Note that we have said, in the Preliminary Address to 
 the Family Cyclopaedia, “ Scarcely a form for the pre¬ 
 paration of one dish is to be found in cookery-books on 
 which the science of an intelligent female cannot improve.” 
 On the preceding vague directions how easily might a little 
 useful knowledge be exercised. In the first place we are 
 not told wffiether the bones as well as the meat are to be 
 stewed together; in short, whether it is to be stewed w 7 hole 
 as a joint, or, after it is roasted, to be cut into pieces and the 
 bones taken away. In whichever w r ay it is to be dressed, 
 wdiat saucepan or stew-pan will be found to hold a rump of 
 beef of even a moderate size. Again, the water is by far 
 too small in quantity; and, if wine is to be added to it, it 
 will be far better to stew it with much more water than is 
 set dow'n in a vessel slightly not closely covered ; and to 
 add the wine towards the end of the process. Again, we 
 are not told whether this dish is to be considered economical 
 or luxurious ; it is decidedly the last. To stew a rump of 
 beef economically there is no need of previous roasting 
 or wine; plenty of water being employed, and sufficient 
 time allowed for the stewing, say four hours at least, more 
 if the joint be large, a very pleasant and nutricious dish may 
 be obtained, with the addition of suitable seasoning and 
 gravy, for a large family. 
 
 THE FRENCH METHOD OF STEWING A 
 RUMP OR A BRISKET OF BEEF is to cut off all 
 the meat from the bones, and soak it in a pint or more of 
 red wine, with spices, vinegar, sweet herbs, salt and pepper, 
 for a night. The next day it is stewed with the wine, &c. 
 
STEWING, HASHING, AND MINCING. 
 
 91 
 
 and some good gravy, an onion, and two or three bay leaves; 
 some put thick slices of bacon at the bottom of the stew- 
 pan. It must stew four, or even five, hours, if the joint be 
 large; and care must be taken to keep it closely covered 
 during the process. When the meat is sufficiently done 
 take it out and strain the liquor, after which the fat must 
 be taken off, the liquor again returned to the pan, to which 
 are added some truffles and morels, artichoke bottoms, or 
 carrots and turnips, all cut in pieces. Boil these up in the 
 liquor, which you may season with cayenne ; add to it the 
 meat to make it hot, serve the whole up, and garnish with 
 lemon and beet-root, or fried bread. 
 
 The following directions for stewing and afterwards 
 frying 
 
 BEEF STEAKS have more reason in them than either 
 of the preceding ; hut even here the wine should be added, 
 if at all, towards the end of the process. 
 
 Pepper and salt your rump steaks, and lay them in a 
 stew-pan ; add to them half a pint or more of water, de* 
 pending upon the weight, a little mace, two or three cloves, 
 an anchovy, some sweet herbs, a piece of butter rolled in 
 flour, a glass of white wine, and an onion. Stew them till 
 they are tender, then take out the steaks, shake some flour 
 over them, and fry them in butter. Strain the liquor in 
 which they were stewed, and put it into the pan with the 
 -steaks; toss the whole up together till it becomes hot and 
 thick. Some add to them oysters. Serve up the steaks 
 [[with the sauce poured over them; g'arnish with pickles and 
 "horse-radish. 
 
 Nota bene, our Council of Cooks are unanimously of 
 ^opinion, that where, in stewin g, frying makes a part of the 
 process, it should be first adopted, and that the stewing 
 should complete it; directly the reverse of the above re¬ 
 cipe : the cook will, of course, choose which she pleases. 
 
 BEEF GOBBETS.—Take any part, or any quantity, of 
 ' beef (except, perhaps, the leg) and cut it into pieces about 
 lithe size of a pullet’s egg, cover them with water, and let 
 them stew for an hour, taking off the scum during the 
 operation; then put in a small quantity of mace, cloves, 
 and whole pepper tied loosely in a cloth ; add also some salt, 
 celery, and carrots, both sliced, some parsley, sweet herbs, 
 
92 STEWING, HASHING, AND MINCING. 
 
 and a large crust of bread. Let it stew till the beef is 
 tender, then take out the herbs, spices, and bread; cut a 
 French roll into four pieces, which must be all delicately 
 toasted, lay them in the dish, and pour the beef and sauce 
 upon them. 
 
 Note, to the above some add, in stewing, a little pearl 
 barley or rice, and also some sliced turnip. We see no ne¬ 
 cessity for the large crust of bread; a few ounces of pre¬ 
 pared barley may be advantageously substituted for it as 
 well as for the rice and pearl barley sometimes employed. 
 In the place of sliced celery, its seeds may be advantage¬ 
 ously added towards the conclusion of the process. 
 
 A NEAT’S TONGUE is sometimes stewed; we be¬ 
 lieve, nevertheless, that boiling is the best method of dress¬ 
 ing it; the flesh, glands and other substances sometimes 
 sold with the tongue, usually called its root, may, however, 
 be advantageously made into a soup or stew, as an econo¬ 
 mical dish, which it is not necessary here to describe. If 
 you still desire a tongue stewed, as a luxurious dish, pro¬ 
 ceed thus:—simmer it in water sufficient to cover it for two 
 hours ; then strip off the skin, and put it again into the 
 liquor with some pepper, salt, cloves, mace, and, some di¬ 
 rect, whole pepper tied in a cloth ; to which add capers, 
 chopped turnips, carrots sliced, and half a pint of good 
 gravy, a little white wine, and some sweet herbs. Stew till 
 the tongue is tender, take out the spices and herbs, and 
 then thicken with butter rolled in flour, or, what is better, 
 prepared barley or pure starch. 
 
 OX-PALATES, previously to being stewed, are some¬ 
 times baked till they are tender; then cut into pieces about 
 an inch wide and three inches long, and stewed with veal 
 gravy, a little Madeira wine, catchup, browning, an onion 
 stuck with cloves, and a slice of lemon. Garnish with 
 sliced lemon. 
 
 Others boil the palates, take off the skin, then cut them 
 small, and afterwards stew them as above. Some will add 
 force meat balls to the stew, which, when served up, must 
 be cut in half. A little mustard should be mixed with the 
 sauce. 
 
 Ox-palate’s are sometimes marinaded; that is, first 
 boiled till they are tender, and then steeped in vinegar for 
 
STEWING, HASHING, AND MINCING. 93 
 
 s three hours or more, to which are added salt, pepper, a 
 a clove of garlic, flour, butter, a laurel leaf, and a few cloves, 
 y The whole is next made warm; the palates are then taken 
 9 out and fried; they may be served up with fried parsley. 
 
 Note .—It might be supposed that this dish was invented 
 rl for the express purpose of giving trouble ; the laurel leaf is 
 poisonous. 
 
 “ The force of folly scarce could farther go.” 
 
 OX-CHEEK is sometimes stewed, to do which, after 
 what has been said concerning stewing in this chapter, the 
 particulars need not be specified; it is better, however, as 
 an economical dish, to be converted into soup. See Soup, 
 page 30. 
 
 ON HOUSE LAMB DRESSED WHITE by being- 
 stewed with milk and ivater with a variety of condiments, 
 we do not deem it necessary to enlarge. Gourmands may 
 direct and devour the dish when prepared, if they please ; 
 but of the boiling or stewing (which is, of course, a low 
 [continuous boiling) any thing in cookery with milk we do 
 not approve, even when water is added to it: for a little 
 [extraordinary heat will impart to it a burnt flavour that no¬ 
 thing can remove. Milk, indeed, requires more care in the 
 application of heat to it than almost any other liquid, be¬ 
 cause it contains, if good, a considerable portion of albumen 
 which is not soluble in water, although it can be mixed with 
 it. 
 
 A KNUCKLE OF VEAL is stewed several ways. 
 One was given by Gay, the poet, which is to be found in 
 most of the miscellanies, and in some of our cookery books. 
 As Gay’s directions are obscure, we have endeavoured to 
 make them more intelligible ; cooks do not want riddles. 
 
 - 
 
 me 
 
 i]f: 
 
 fit 
 
 he? 
 ai 
 
 M 
 ilk 
 
 Take a knuckle of veal— 
 
 You must buy it, not steal— 
 
 In a few pieces cut it. 
 
 In a proper jar put it; 
 
 Strew in, with due grace. 
 
 Some salt, pepper, and mace— 
 Bits of celery a few ; 
 
 Add some sweet herbs thereto. 
 With sorrel and thyme. 
 
 And, to make your dish prime. 
 
94 STEWING, HASHING, AND MINCING. 
 
 Do not parsley forget. 
 
 Before you on set 
 
 It, you may, if you please. 
 
 Add unto all these. 
 
 Spinach, endive, and beet. 
 
 Lettuce, marigold meet; 
 
 Or whatever you fancy. 
 
 Or luxury can see. 
 
 This dish to improve— 
 
 ( Dish of folly, by Jove !) 
 
 Put no water, I say. 
 
 For so sang Mr. Gay ! 
 
 Closely cover your vase. 
 
 In a vessel it place. 
 
 Having water enough 
 To stew well your stuff; 
 
 Let it long in it boil, 
 
 (This is called water-bath — 
 
 A good cook it hath) 
 
 After four hours' toil— 
 
 Be it more, be it less. 
 
 But about it, I guess— 
 
 Perhaps you may find 
 A dish to your mind. 
 
 Note, that a clean wide-mouthed stone jar is the best 
 vessel for stewing this dish in ; it should be placed in the 
 water-bath when the water is cold, and thus be heated gra¬ 
 dually to the boiling point of the water, which must be kept 
 constantly at the same heat during- the whole of the pro¬ 
 cess. 
 
 A KNUCKLE OF VEAL is best stewed thus:—put 
 the veal into the stewpan, placing under it a few wooden 
 skewers so as to prevent its immediate contact with the 
 bottom ; add to it a little mace, whole pepper, a bit of 
 thyme, an onion, and sufficient water to cover it, to this 
 some add a crust of bread. Let the whole simmer for two 
 or more hours, the vessel being covered but not closely. 
 When done, serve it up, and pour the liquor over it. Gar¬ 
 nish with sliced lemon. 
 
 A FILLET OF VEAL is usually stuffed as for roasting, 
 baked till it is a nice brown, and then stewed with good 
 gravy till it is tender; a few morels, truffles, a little lemon 
 pickle, two spoonsful of browning, one of catchup, and a 
 little of cayenne pepper are then added; it is thickened 
 with butter and flour or pure starch. Put the veal into the 
 
STEWING, HASHING, AND MINCING. 95 
 
 dish; strain the gravy, which pour over it; lay round force¬ 
 meat balls and garnish with sliced lemon and pickles. 
 
 Note, this is an unnecessary and operose method of 
 dressing a fillet of veal; simple roasting is much better. 
 
 A NECK OF VEAL is larded with bacon rolled in 
 pepper, salt, and spices, and then stewed in broth till it is 
 I tender, to which are added two onions; some put in, besides, 
 a laurel leaf and brandy; both unnecessary; the first being 
 poisonous, the other flying off during the process. 
 
 A BREAST OF VEAL is also directed by many cooks 
 to be stewed with a little broth, a glass of white wine, 
 sweet herbs, a few mushroons, two or three onions, and 
 some pepper and salt. When it is done, strain and scum 
 the liquor, which serve up as sauce poured over the veal. 
 Your garnish may be force-meat balls and sliced lemon. 
 
 Note, that in the three preceding dishes, gravy and broth 
 
 i are ordered to be employed instead of water for the stew; 
 but how much soever gravy in particular may suit the taste 
 and purses of the luxurious, it is not suitable to the econo¬ 
 mical. If, therefore, the respective joints be covered with 
 water, and, during the stewing, a good deal of it be suffered 
 to escape, the employment of gravy or even broth will be 
 1 unnecessary. 
 
 We are not advocates for compound or complicated dishes 
 at any time, but the following method of dressing 
 
 A 'BREAST OF VEAL A LA SUISSE comes to us 
 so highly recommended by a lady (Mrs. Johnson), and of 
 which we have more than once partaken, that we lay it with 
 pleasure before the reader. 
 
 Take the middle of a breast of veal and cut it into pieces 
 % of a moderate size, fry them with butter till they become 
 vbrown; cut off the meat from the gristle, which last stew 
 in a little water till it becomes a jelly. Stew now the meat, 
 the bones and the dissolved gristle in sufficient water with 
 five or more large blanched leeks sliced, salt and a little 
 cayenne pepper, till the meat and leeks are tender. Take 
 out the bones, skim off the fat, and serve the rest up 
 together. 
 
 A BREAST OF VEAL another way .—Half roast it 
 and then take out the bones and stew it with a pint of gravy 
 and two ounces of truffles and morels, till it is tender; pour 
 
96 
 
 STEWING, HASHING, AND MINCING. 
 
 the gravy from the meat, take off the fat and add some 
 flour and butter, a dozen of oysters, a few prckled mush¬ 
 rooms and gerkins, and a sweetbread cut into small pieces 
 and fried; boil up the whole together; lay the meat in the 
 dish and the oysters, mushrooms, &c. around it. _ 
 
 A CALF’S HEAD is also directed to be stewed, in many 
 of our cookery books, with stuffing, gravy, eggs oysters 
 or cockles and a great variety of other articles; but after 
 our directions for boiling a calf's head , its stewing may be 
 
 effected, we are quite sure, more agreeably and as u eflty 
 
 more economically by the youngest apprentice in the art 
 than by the operose and, we must say, ridiculous direction 
 
 to which we allude. 1. 
 
 POULTRY as well as GAME may be sometimes advar - 
 tao-eously stewed in consequence of its toughness; in ee 
 the old animals of this class are best stewed. But, never¬ 
 theless, some will have even young chickens stewed. we 
 therefore o-ive the following recipes; but we consider mo 
 of them ministrants to luxury, giblets especially e^epted. 
 A TURKEY OR FOWL.— Put the bird into the stew- 
 
 pan upon some wooden skewers so as to prevent its touching 
 the bottom; add to it a quart or more of some good gravy 
 or broth some celery cut small, and a little mac . 
 it till the bird is tender; take the bird out and add to the 
 liquor a piece of butter rolled in flour or pure starch, two 
 spoonsful of red wine, the same quantity ofcatchup» anda 
 proper seasoning ol pepper and salt, 01 1 p, y 
 bird in the dish and pour the sauce over it. 
 
 Note that some bone the turkey, adding a sort of stuffing 
 made of the liver, mushrooms, and streaked bacon cut into 
 small bits, to which are added salt, spice, pars ey, 
 
 ^CHICKENS must be half boiled in water, then cutup 
 and let the breast-bone be removed. Stew them in t 
 liquor in which they were boiled with a bit of mace and a 
 U?tle salt till they are done. They may be served up with 
 
 Pa GOOSE b GlBLETS are decidedly proper articles for 
 stewino-. They should be first scalded so that they may e 
 more 11 effectually cleansed. The neck should be cut mt 
 pieces, the pinions in two, and the gizzard sliced. Thej 
 
97 
 
 STEWING, HASHING, AND MINCING. 
 
 inust be placed in the stew-pan with water sufficient to cover 
 them; or, if you have it, some broth; to this you may add 
 what seasoning- you please; some put in sweet herbs, an 
 anchovy, some whole pepper, cloves, and a little catchup 
 and an onion; others add nothing but pepper and salt; this 
 last is, we believe, the best. They must be stewed till 
 tender. You may serve them up as you please. The li¬ 
 quor in which they are stewed is the best gravy, to which 
 some unnecessarily add butter and flour; the luxurious will 
 have, besides, cream; there is no objection to sippets of 
 bread. 
 
 A DUCK may be stewed for the luxurious thus: it must 
 be first half roasted, and then put into a stew-pan with a 
 pint of good gravy and some red wine; you may put in a 
 pint if you please, or you may omit it altogether. Add 
 besides some onion chopped small or garlic if you prefer it; 
 some lemon-peel, sweet herbs, cayenne pepper, and salt; 
 stew it till tender. Take out the duck and strain off the 
 liquor, to which you may add truffles and morels and walnut 
 catchup for the sauce, which, being made hot, must be poured 
 over the bird. 
 
 I\ ote what is said in regard to wine under rump of 
 beef page 90; and also the general observations page 86. 
 
 ^ ou may, instead of good gravy, use water for your stew; 
 there is certainly no necessity for gravy with such a bird. 
 
 A DUCK may be stewed much more simply than the pre¬ 
 ceding, and, we think, more agreeably, with greenpease in wa¬ 
 ter without even the gravy, and assuredly without the wine. 
 Some of the cookery books make a parade of this dish; but 
 surely a cook of very moderate abilities can prepare it without 
 any directions; a variety of condiments is decidedly injurious 
 to it. Even eggs have been injudiciously pressed into its ser¬ 
 vice. It may be served up with parsley and butter; your 
 garnish may be green mint boiled and chopped fine. 
 
 PIGEOiNb, being stuffed with sweet herbs, pepper, 
 salt, cloves, and mace, and butter rolled in flour, and half 
 roasted, must be stewed in good gravy with, if you please, 
 a little white wine, pepper, mace, lemon, sweet herbs, and 
 ,an onion; when they are done strain the liquor and add to 
 it some butter rolled in flour; put the birds again into the 
 liquor with some pickled mushrooms; stew the whole to°-e- 
 
 
98 STEWING, HASHING, AND MINCING. 
 
 ther for a few minutes; serve the pigeons up with the sauce 
 poured over them. 
 
 , A PLOVER being drawn, and, if you choose, stuffed 
 with crumb of bread, a bit of butter or suet, lemon thyme, 
 pepper and salt, stew it in a pint of gravy for an hour with 
 a blade of mace and a glass of wine. Serve it up with the 
 gravy. 
 
 A PHEASANT must be stewed in veal broth enough in 
 the first instance to cover it; when it is nearly done put in 
 parboiled artichoke bottoms, a bit of mace, a glass of wine, 
 pepper and salt, a little lemon juice, butter and flour or 
 pure starch to thicken the liquor for sauce. Serve it up 
 with the sauce poured over the bird and forcemeat balls 
 around the dish. 
 
 PARTRIDGES must be trussed as for roasting, and the 
 craws being stuffed, let each side of the breast be larded; 
 put a lump of butter with pepper, salt, and some bruised mace 
 into the bellies; dredge them with flour and fry them a light 
 brown; stew them in a quart of gravy with a little madeira 
 wine, catchup and lemon pickle, to wdiich add half a tea spoon¬ 
 ful of mushroom powder, an anchovy, half a lemon, and 
 a bit of marjoram; stew them for about half an hour; then 
 take them out; thicken the gravy by boiling it a little; pour 
 it over the birds laying round them boiled artichoke bottoms 
 cut in quarters and the yolks of eggs boiled hard. This 
 last is by no means a desirable addition for persons who have 
 not extraordinary digestive powers. 
 
 WOODCOCKS may be stewed in a similar way to 
 partridges. 
 
 CUCUMBERS are directed in some of our cookery 
 books to be stewed, being first cut into slices and fried with 
 butter and flour till they are brown; but it is altogether a 
 dish that seems foreign to our English tastes and which we 
 cannot recommend. 
 
 GREEN PEASE AND LETTUCE make a much more 
 desirable and palatable dish stew T ed in gravy till they are 
 tender. Two or three slices of bacon or ham in the bottom 
 of the stew-pan will be no contemptible addition. It may 
 be seasoned at pleasure. 
 
 THE STEWING OF FISH is not, in general, a pro- 
 oess which we can recommend. Fish require little heat in 
 
STEWING, HASHING, AND MINCING. 99 
 
 dressing them compared with that necessary for other animal 
 food; and the white fish in particular are so soon dissolved 
 by a long continuation of heat in a pickle, or even in com¬ 
 mon water, that the greatest care and circumspection are 
 necessary in subjecting them to stewing. One general rule 
 may be, however, laid down, namely, to stew all fish 
 gently, and no longer than till they are tender. As stewed 
 fish may be considered a luxury rather than a necessary, 
 oysters, perhaps, excepted, w r e will set down a few forms 
 for those who may desire this sort of gustatory stimula¬ 
 tion. 
 
 The following may be your liquor in which any fish can 
 be stewed. 
 
 Take some good veal-stock, chopped shalots, anchovies, 
 horse-radish scraped, a few slices of lemon peel, and some 
 port wine ; season it with cayenne pepper, salt, and lemon- 
 juice ; to these some will add a bay-leaf, but it is poisonous; 
 in regard to wine, see what is said in the general directions 
 and under rump of beef, above. Boil these all together 
 for about a quarter of an hour, omitting the wine for rea- 
 , sons before stated ; strain the liquor, put the fish into it, 
 and stew it; add the wine towards the end of the operation. 
 It must he served up in a deep dish in the liquor; fried 
 bread may be placed round it. 
 
 Note, that in stewing such large fish as cod, it is usually 
 cut into pieees, and stewed in white wine and water, with¬ 
 out the addition of veal-stock. Pike is stewed sometimes 
 with red wine only, and no other liquid. Carp and tench 
 with wine and water; a barbel in eel broth; trout is 
 stuffed with veal or similar stuffing, and then stewed in 
 good gravy, and madeira wine. Soles and other Jlat-fish 
 are first half fried, and then stewed as other fish. They 
 may be served up with oyster or shrimp sauce. 
 
 Note, that carp is sometimes stewed in its own blood, 
 and wine, with condiments, of course. 
 
 In serving up carp, tench, and other fish, you may 
 garnish with some of the hard roe, mixed in butter, and 
 fried in pieces. 
 
 LAMPREYS are sometimes first fried, and then stew r ed; 
 they are, in fact, done in a variety of ways; but in every 
 shape, although a luxurious, generally an unwholesome 
 
 F 2 
 
100 STEWING, HASHING, AND MINCING. 
 
 dish, as the death of our king, Henry I. testifies. Even 
 the blood of this fish has been sometimes employed in the 
 
 stew. 
 
 EELS with care and the addition of pepper, salt, and 
 some spice, may be made with pure water a very agreea¬ 
 ble stew; with gravy, butter, eggs, anchovies, wine, 
 onion, &c. &c. it may please the gourmand, but in our 
 judgment they will spoil it. 
 
 PRAWNS, SHRIMPS, AND CRAY-FISH may be 
 stewed in water with vinegar and a bit of mace ; some 
 will employ wine instead of water. A quarter of an hour 
 will stew them. The tails are usually employed to flavour 
 the gravy, which is thickened with flour or pure starch 
 and butter; slices of toasted bread must be placed in the 
 bottom of the dish, over which the fish and sauce must be 
 poured, and thus served up. 
 
 OYSTERS are best stewed in their own liquor; they 
 should be just scalded and no more. If, however, luxury 
 ask for a more piquant dish, it may be made with them 
 several ways. A most elegant one thus : take the oysters 
 without their liquor and scald them in about their own 
 weight of blanche-mange and a bit of butter. You may 
 add what seasoning you please. They may be served up 
 with bits of toasted bread. Or you may put cream to the 
 oysters with their liquor, adding a little butter and flour, 
 or rather pure starch. A few minutes are always sufficient 
 to stew oysters in any way. 
 
 SCOLLOPED OYSTERS. Put into the liquor of 
 your oysters, carefully made clean, some butter, pepper, 
 salt, lemon-peel, and grated nutmeg; add the oysters, 
 being bearded, to this liquor, and let them simmer in it for 
 a few minutes; then put the oysters, with the liquor, into 
 scollop shells, or, instead, if you have not the shells, into 
 tea saucers. Strew over them crumbs of bread; set them 
 in an oven before the fire to brown. 
 
 Or, which is a simpler and better way, separate the 
 oysters from the liquor and lay them in scollop shells, with 
 butter and crumbs of bread; brown them in a Dutch-oven 
 before the fire. 
 
 Note .—You may make with the liquor what sauce you 
 choose. 
 
HASHING AND MINCING. 
 
 101 
 
 MUSCLES may be also stewed the same way as oys- 
 tess; but care should be taken that they are sweet and 
 wholesome. We do not recommend them. 
 
 HASHING and MINCING are essentially stewing- pro¬ 
 cesses ; but they are applied chiefly to meat and other ani¬ 
 mal food which has been previously dressed. In general it 
 is not desirable to keep such food long in a boiling heat, as 
 doing so is apt to make the slices tough. In hashing as 
 well as mincing the hones must be separated from the meat; 
 this and its being more quickly dressed constitutes the dif¬ 
 ference between both these processes and stewing. Yet in 
 fowls and hare the bones are often suffered to remain. 
 Perhaps, however, the best way to treat the bones of both 
 flesh and fowl, is to make a gravy by boiling them for a 
 time, more or less long, in a sufficient quantity of water, 
 with onion, pepper, salt, sweet herbs, catchup, or other 
 condiments, and thus heat the hash in it; it may be thick¬ 
 ened with butter and flour, or rather pure starch, and 
 served up with the hash in the dish. If you obtain no 
 gravy from the bones some good gravy is, in general, added 
 to the hash whatever it might be. With these directions 
 added to a little discretion, any hash may be made ; we 
 shall, notwithstanding, present the cook with a few forms. 
 
 VENISON. Make a gravy thus: take the gravy of the 
 venison, if you have any, if not, take some veal-stock or 
 good broth, some butter and flour, an onion or shalot 
 chopped fine, to which some will add a glass of wine, 
 cloves, and an anchovy minced; others will add wine to 
 the quantity of a pint, but it is a truly wasteful practice. 
 Boil the whole gently for about fifteen minutes, then add to 
 it, after being strained, the venison which is least done, 
 j and cut into slices. Let the whole boil for fifteen minutes 
 i more, seasoning it as you wish. Serve it up together with 
 I sippets of bread. 
 
 MUTTON, already dressed, should be cut into very thin 
 slices; of the bones should be made a gravy, as described 
 under hashing and mincing above, to which add the slices 
 of mutton, a little butter and flour, or rather pure starch ; 
 boil the whole for about five minutes, or, at least, make it 
 boiling hot. Season as you please and serve it up with 
 
102 
 
 HASHING AND MINCING. 
 
 toasted bread in your dish. Pickles and horse-radish may 
 be the garnish. 
 
 BEEF may be hashed in the same manner as mutton ; 
 some, however, will lay the bones, seasoned with pepper 
 and salt, and grilled, over the hash. 
 
 A CALF’S HEAD HASHED is considered by gourmands 
 a splendid dish. It is usually first parboiled and then the 
 meat is cut into thin broad slices, together with the tongue 
 also sliced; it is then stewed in good gravy for about an 
 hour, when are added to it an anchovy, mace, cayenne 
 pepper, truffles, and morels, and many other condiments, 
 not omitting a little wine. Just before it is done put some 
 butter and flour to thicken it. The brains are first scalded 
 and then beaten up with eggs, flour, lemon-peel, parsley 
 and other herbs, all chopped fine, to which add pepper and 
 salt. Pour the whole, in little cakes, into boiling lard, in 
 a frying-pan; let them be done brown. Serve the hash up 
 with the gravy over it, to which add mushrooms, forcemeat,, 
 balls, and the brain cakes; and you may add, if you desire 
 to make the dish peculiarly unwholesome, the yolks of eggs 
 boiled hard. 
 
 Note, there are several other ways of hashing a calf’s 
 head ; it may be treated as hashed mutton; and this is 
 assuredly the most wholesome and most economical method; 
 but catchup with this and other white meats should, in 
 general, be omitted. 
 
 MINCED VEAL. Make a gravy from the bones as 
 directed for hashes ; if you have no bones you may add 
 some good gravy or broth; but pure water is often employed. 
 Having cut your veal into very small pieces, i.e. minced 
 it, add it to your gravy, broth, or water, and also the 
 following: a little butter and flour, or rather pure starch, 
 grated lemon-peel, and nutmeg, and a little salt; some add 
 lemon juice, cayenne pepper, and cream. Stew the whole 
 gently for a few minutes. Serve it up with sippets of bread 
 in your dish. The garnish, sliced lemon. 
 
 TURKEYS, FOWLS, AND RABBITS. These being 
 previously dressed and cold should be cut up as for eating, 
 but the legs and wings should be separated into two portions 
 at least, the turkey’s legs into more, Make a gravy with 
 
STEWING, HASHING, AND MINCING. 103 
 
 veal stack, or good broth, a bit of butter, and flour or pure 
 starch, shalots or onions chopped fine, catchup, and lemon- 
 pickle ; boil these together for ten minutes, and strain the 
 liquor, into which put the turkey or other article previously 
 cut up. Boil it for a few minutes, and serve it up with 
 sippets of bread, and garnish accordant with the dish. 
 
 Note, some add to the gravy, for hashed turkey, a little 
 wane, and also eggs and cream. Onion-sauce belongs pecu¬ 
 liarly to the rabbit. 
 
 Pheasants, Partridges, and Wild Fowl generally, may 
 be treated in a similar way to the preceding, varying your 
 sauce with the peculiar nature of the bird. 
 
 A WOODCOCK being cold and cut up, and the entrails 
 beaten fine, is usually hashed in a gravy composed of a 
 little red wine and water, a spoonful of vinegar, and a sliced 
 onion, to which are added butter and flour; boil up this 
 liquor for a minute or two, and then put in the bird ; when 
 sufficiently hot, serve it up with sippets in the dish, and 
 strain the sauce over it. 
 
 A HARE, being dressed and cold, must be cut into 
 pieces as if for eating ; the legs into two or more portions ; 
 the stuffing, if you have any left, may be mixed with some 
 red wine and water, the quantity of both to be determined 
 by the quantity of your hare ; four ounces of each will be 
 plenty; to these add a good piece of butter rolled in flour 
 or starch, half an anchovy minced, an onion stuck with a 
 few cloves. Put the -whole into a stewpan covered closely, 
 and make it thoroughly hot; but it should not boil, for the 
 reason assigned under our General Observations on Hashing 
 and Mincing above. Take out the onion, and serve the 
 hare up with sippets in the dish, and the gravy poured 
 over it. 
 
 Note. Here, as we have elsewhere done, we must again 
 impress upon the cook the necessity of avoiding the use, if 
 possible, of flour in all gravies, and more especially in those 
 where, as in this direction, it is not even boiled at all: flour, 
 
 I in its raw state, being peculiarly unfitted for the human 
 stomach. 
 
 A HARE IS JUGGED in various ways. Some will 
 cut it into pieces, lard it with bacon, and stew the whole in a 
 stone jar closely tied down and placed in a water-bath, with 
 
104 STEWING, HASHING, AND MINCING. 
 
 a great variety of spices, garlic, onions, bay-leaves, (the 
 reader will remember they are poisonous,) various sweet 
 herbs, a quart of veal-stock, and half a pint of red wine, 
 till nearly done; then take it out, strain the liquor, and 
 stew the hare again in it, with a little flour and butter, till 
 it is done. Others will jug it without the addition of any 
 liquid, merely adding bacon, spices, &c.; but of this we do 
 not at all approve. Our own way is the following. 
 
 The hare being properly skinned and cleansed, cut it into 
 separate portions as if for eating, dividing the legs into two 
 or more; prepare a stuffing as if for roasting, and put it 
 into the jug with the hare, rolling it into several balls. In 
 short, treat the hare in respect to the seasoning and stuffing 
 as if you were about to roast it, except, of course, you must 
 omit all relative to the basting ; to these add a quart of good 
 beef or mutton broth. Stew the whole in a water-bath till 
 it is done: it may possibly take two hours and a half or 
 three hours. 
 
 Note. Instead of stewing this dish, it is much more 
 conveniently baked. Wine is best added to the gravy when 
 your hare is served up, which it may be in precisely the 
 same way as one that is roasted. 
 
105 
 
 - 
 
 CHAPTER VIII. 
 
 FRICASSEES, RAGOUTS, AND MADE-DISIIES. 
 
 Fricassees and Ragouts are the fruits of French taste ; 
 Let all these, your Made-Dishes, with science be grac’d. 
 Though Fashion may order, or Lady M. Skeggs, 
 
 A dish with long boil’d and unwholesome hard eggs, 
 
 Our duty demands that this signal we make— 
 
 Let no tender stomach once of them partake. 
 
 Of sauces ill made with wheat-flour beware ; 
 
 Let Lady Simplicity still be your care. 
 
 To apply well your knowledge of frying and boiling. 
 
 As well as of stewing might save yon some toiling; 
 
 Bring the best of your art unto every dish; 
 
 And spoil not by over-much stewing your fish. 
 
 General Observations. To the directions in our 
 motto little needs to be added; yet we cannot avoid ob¬ 
 serving that this chapter is one of the most important in the 
 art of cookery: for, averse as we are to compound and 
 complicated dishes, it is, nevertheless, indisputably true, 
 that a great many persons in the middle and upper ranks of 
 society expect to find their cooks expert in the preparation 
 of such dishes. Still we must insist, as far as possible, on 
 as great an approach to simplicity in cooking them as is 
 ■ consistent with the essentials of the compound. 
 
 Against the addition of wheat flour and numerous con¬ 
 i' diments to many of the made-dishes, we must strongly 
 protest. It is time, indeed, that the learned and influential 
 in this art should lift their voices aloud against the practice ; 
 it is time that cooks, following the praiseworthy conduct of 
 the reforming physicians of this country about half a cen¬ 
 tury ago, who, in their then published book for the Cookery 
 of Medicines,* expunged entirely various complicated forms 
 
 * The Pharmacopoeia Londinensis of 1788. 
 
 F 3 
 
106 FRICASSEES, RAGOUTS, AND MADE-DISHES. 
 
 and directed those only which were more simple and more 
 efficient;—it is time, we say, that cooks and others should 
 begin this salutary reformation; and although, as indivi¬ 
 duals, we cannot expect to completely effectuate so great a 
 change, yet we hope to do much towards it by pointing out 
 the proper way, and simplifying, as far as possible, the pro¬ 
 cesses which, in this our New Code of Cookery , it hath 
 fallen to our province to describe.* 
 
 We have, in many parts of our work, pointed out the 
 impropriety of employing hard boiled eggs as an article of 
 food; and here again, where they are too often employed 
 by the professed cook, we once more feel it our duty to lift 
 up our warning admonition. 
 
 Of bacon, too, that almost universal assistant of the cook, 
 we would here say a few words. There can be no doubt 
 that it is a valuable article of food; but we think, never¬ 
 theless, that it is employed too indiscriminately in a variety 
 of dishes; and that, in made-dishes in particular, its use 
 may be advantageously circumscribed. That we have a 
 high opinion of this viand we prove incontestably by the 
 following lines, written a long time, indeed before this 
 volume was begun, f 
 
 * We are prepared to hear that many a cook has been thrown 
 into a fever, an excitement of no little duration, at the very nume¬ 
 rous attacks which we have felt it our indispensable duty to make 
 upon some of the most favourite dishes of the professor, in this our 
 new, and, we dare say, extraordinary, code of cookery. But we 
 can most sincerely assure all such that we have not the least wish 
 to offend either their prejudices or their knowledge ; on the con¬ 
 trary we are very desirous indeed of engaging their favourable 
 attention and their good opinion. We hope, at least, that they 
 will not condemn us unheard; and w r e believe, moreover, that if 
 they will pay attention to our arguments, (we attempt, we propose 
 no change without offering a reason for it,) they will not only get 
 rid of their extraordinary excitement, but they will see, on sober 
 reflection, much reason to be thankful for the innovation, the re¬ 
 formation which it has been our duty and our happiness to propose. 
 
 t The best bacon is that which has had the hairs singed off from 
 the skin with blazing straw. This process imparts a flavour for 
 which we seek in vain where the hairs are removed by the assist¬ 
 ance of scaldiDg water: the last is, nevertheless, the neatest 
 practice. 
 
FRICASSEES, RAGOUTS, AND MADE-DISHES. 107 
 
 THE UTILITIES OF BACON. 
 
 Dear Madam, 
 
 Need I say to you 
 What honour is to Bacon due ? 
 
 Brown’d by the blaze, the bacon-side 
 Of farmer’s kitchen is the pride ; 
 
 There, on the rack, aloft it lies, 
 
 A tempting vision to all eyes. 
 
 It’s good with fowl, or roast or boil’d ; 
 
 It’s good with veal; it’s good too broil’d ; 
 
 It’s good with peas, or green or dry ; 
 
 And with potatoes makes good fry ; 
 
 It’s good with beans in summer season. 
 
 Or boil’d or fried, as you may reason ; 
 
 And for a stout laborious thrasher. 
 
 It is most excellent as rasher; 
 
 Which he may cook, supremely good. 
 
 On pointed stick o’er burning wood. 
 
 In forest should he be at work— 
 
 A simple supplement for fork. 
 
 For dishes made and many stews 
 What cook to cut it will refuse ? 
 
 With cabbage good, with eggs how nice? 
 
 What want you more of my advice ? 
 
 Oh—should you choose to eat it raw, 
 
 Against the deed there is no law ; 
 
 Nay, some of Esculapius’ tribe 
 To eat it raw do now prescribe. 
 
 If you have that with simple bread 
 What need you hunger ever dread ? 
 
 Wherefore, the merits great of BACON ! 
 
 And these by no one are mistaken.* 
 
 * Dr. Kitchener says that bacon is an expensive viand. We do 
 not understand how this can be, unless when it is purchased in 
 small quantities. Bacon by the flitch can be obtained, generally, 
 in London, for two-pence per pound less than when it is purchased 
 in single pounds : the economical should, therefore, avoid this last 
 mode of purchasing it: the least economical bacon is that called 
 streaky; and which, if eaten in large quantity, is apt to produce 
 thirst similarly to other salted animal food. The ancient custom of 
 Dunmow Priory, in Essex, of giving a flitch of bacon to the married 
 couple who can affirm that they have never repented their mar¬ 
 riage, nor had an angry word during the first year, attests the 
 
 ■ value in which bacon was held by our ancestors. Of its estimation 
 now, in some of our rural districts, we may judge by this anecdote. 
 Some years ago many electors of a Wiltshire borough were brought 
 up to London to give evidence before an election committee of the 
 House of Commons ; they were entertained at one of the hotels in 
 the Metropolis in so sumptuous, and, to them, so singular a 
 manner, that they, after remaining some days in town, expressed 
 not only their dislike of the food set before them, but the great 
 desire which they had of returning to their more customary diet, 
 cabbage and bacon! 
 
108 FRICASSEES.—OX-PALATES, SWEETBREADS. 
 
 The term FRICASSEE implies something fried ; the 
 cooks of this country do, however, sometimes apply it to a 
 stewed dish; improperly of course, but we cannot oppose 
 the verbal corruption. The following are some of the 
 dishes usually termed fricassees. 
 
 OX-PALATES being cleansed, must be soaked in warm 
 water for half an hour, then taken out and put into an 
 earthen jar, with water to cover them, and submitted to the 
 heat of an oven, sufficiently hot to bake meat, for three or 
 more hours; take them out, let their skins be stripped off 
 and cut them in square pieces; add to them some cayenne 
 pepper, salt, and nutmeg. Beat up the yolk of two eggs 
 with a spoonful of flour or rather pure starch, into which the 
 palates must be dipped, and then fried of a light brown. 
 Heat now some veal gravy, a little caper liquor, a spoonful 
 of browning, and a few mushrooms ; thicken it with butter 
 and pure starch ; pour this gravy hot into the dish and lay 
 the palates on it. Your garnish may be barberries and fried 
 parsley. 
 
 SWEETBPlEAD, if desired brown, must be first scalded 
 and then sliced ; dip them in the yolk of an egg beaten up 
 with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a little flour; and fry them 
 a nice brown. Thicken some good gravy with flour or pure 
 starch, and add mushroom powder or catchup, a little lemon 
 juice, and cayenne. Stew the sweetbreads in this gravy 
 for a few minutes. Serve the whole up with a garnish of 
 sliced lemon. 
 
 JSote, here an adroit cook ought to make the sweetbreads 
 brown without the assistance of an egg ; which is too often 
 a mere cover for her carelessness. 
 
 SWEETBREADS, white, are usually stewed in 
 the following liquor : veal gravy, butter and flour, a little 
 cream, grated lemon peel, nutmeg, w’hite pepper, salt, and 
 mushroom powder ; let these all boil together for about ten 
 minutes, then put in the sweetbreads, previously scalded 
 and sliced, and simmer for about fifteen or more minutes, 
 occasionally shaking them in the pan. When done, you 
 may add a little lemon juice ; let the whole be served up. 
 
 Note, this may be a luxurious but is not a very whole¬ 
 some dish ; cream is not a desirable additament; the flour 
 will be well exchanged for starch. 
 
FRICASSEES. — NEAT’S TONGUE, TRIPE. 109 
 
 LAMBSTONES must be fried in lard of a nice brown. 
 Prepare the following sauce : take some veal gravy, into 
 which shake some pure starch, (to which some will add a 
 bit of butter,) put to this a slice of lemon, a little catchup, 
 lemon pickle, grated nutmeg, the yolk of an egg well 
 beaten, and two spoonfuls of thick cream; heat the whole 
 together till it approaches the boiling point and becomes 
 thick and white ; but it must not boil; put in now the lambs- 
 stones previously fried and kept hot before the fire; shake 
 them, and, when all is hot, serve it up. Some choose boiled 
 forcemeat balls round tbe dish with a garnish of sliced 
 lemon. 
 
 A NEAT’S TONGUE must be boiled till it is tender and 
 then be taken up, peeled, and cut into slices, which must 
 be fried in butter till they are brown. Pour the butter out 
 of the pan and add to the tongue some good gravy, sweet 
 herbs, an onion, pepper, salt, a little mace, and a glass of 
 wine ; let the whole simmer together for about half an hour, 
 then take out the tongue and strain the gravy; put all 
 again into the pan with the yolks of two eggs well beaten, 
 a little nutmeg, and a bit of butter rolled in flour or starch ; 
 let them simmer for about five minutes ; put the tongue into 
 i the dish and pour the sauce over it. 
 
 Note, this is an old fashioned fricassee, and we suppose 
 is still admired by epicures ; we advise by all means the 
 omission of the eggs; they make the gravy richer but more 
 unwholesome, unless for those whose stomachs defy all the 
 evils arising from such compounded stimulation. 
 
 CALF’S FEET must be first boiled till they are nearly 
 done ; the long bones being taken out, divide the feet into 
 two parts and simmer them with some veal gravy, a glass 
 of white wine, the yolk of two eggs beaten up with a little 
 j cream, nutmeg, salt, and a bit of butter, for about ten 
 |l minutes. Put the feet into the dish and pour the sauce 
 S over them. Garnish with sliced lemon. 
 
 Note, the eggs and cream may be omitted, and instead 
 ' a little pure starch may be supplied with advantage to the 
 I wholesomeness of this dish. 
 
 TRIPE, previously boiled so as to be tender, must be 
 cut into pieces about two inches square and put into a stew- 
 pan, with as much wine as will half cover them ; some 
 
no 
 
 FRICASSEES.-PIGEONS. 
 
 white pepper, sliced ginger, a bit of mace, some sweet 
 herbs, and an onion; when the whole has stewed about 
 fifteen minutes, take out the herbs and onion, and put in a 
 little shred parsley, the juice of a lemon, half an anchovy 
 minced, four ounces of cream, the yolk of an egg or a 
 piece of butter ; it should, of course, simmer not boil for a 
 few minutes longer, and may be seasoned at pleasure. 
 Serve it up garnishing with lemon. 
 
 Note, w r e scarcely need repeat here the necessity, when 
 wine is employed in stews, particularly if added at the 
 commencement of the process, that the vessel should be 
 closely covered, or the best portion of it will escape. This 
 is a luxurious and, we believe, quite an unnecessary 
 dish : Tripe may be dressed in a much more simple and 
 advantageous manner. See Boiling and Frying. 
 
 PIGEONS must be cut in pieces and fried of a light 
 brown ; next, let them be stewed in good mutton gravy for 
 about half an hour, and then add to them a slice of lemon, 
 half an ounce of morels, and a spoonful of browning; let 
 them stew five minutes more, and put them into the dish ; 
 thicken the gravy with butter and pure starch, and strain 
 it over the pigeons; serve them up with forcemeat balls, 
 and garnish with pickles. 
 
 A more complicated method of fricasseeing pigeons is 
 given in some of our cookery books ; it consists in stewing 
 them with equal parts of claret and water and a variety of 
 condiments; the gravy is made with eggs, &c. ; and they 
 are served up with slices of bacon toasted and oysters fried. 
 
 A BROWN FRICASSEE. Take a rabbit, of course 
 properly skinned and cleaned, a young one is usually pre¬ 
 ferred, and cut it into pieces as for eating; fry them in 
 butter or sweet dripping of a light brown: Put them now 
 into a pint of water, some choose beef gravy instead, (which 
 will, of course, make the dish richer,) with a slice of lemon, 
 an anchovy, a bit of horseradish, a few shalots, some lemon 
 pickle, seasoning with salt and cayenne. Stew the whole 
 over a slow fire till it is done. Thicken the gravy with pure 
 starch, strain it; and when the rabbit is in the dish pour 
 the gravy over it. 
 
 A WHITE FRICASSEE. Cut a rabbit properly 
 skinned and cleaned as directed in the last article, and stew 
 
FRICASSEES.—CHICKENS, EGGS. 
 
 Ill 
 
 it with a pint of veal gravy, (some employ milk and water 
 instead) till it is tender. Thicken the gravy with butter 
 and pure starch, to which some will add a quantity more or 
 less of cream ; others employ the yolks of eggs ; it is sea¬ 
 soned, of course, with salt and pepper or cayenne, to which 
 some will add powdered mace, grated nutmeg, and pow¬ 
 dered mushrooms; to these others add wine. But it is 
 essential, if cream and wine or any acid be employed, that 
 the gravy should not boil, or it will, of course, curdle and 
 be spoiled. 
 
 Note, we give this form because we presume it will be 
 expected in a Cookery Book ; but it is so decidedly bad a dish 
 that we at once must put our veto on it. The brown fri¬ 
 cassee is very superior to it. 
 
 CHICKENS may be fricasseed in the same manner as 
 rabbits; we, however, only recommend them brown; the 
 white fricassee should be avoided. 
 
 EGGS are also sometimes fricasseed as follows : Let 
 them be boiled hard ; take out some of the yolks whole ; 
 cut the rest into quarters yolks and whites together. Make 
 some good gravy, to which add a little minced thyme and 
 parsley, boiling hot; then add to it the eggs with a little 
 grated nutmeg: shake the whole up with a piece of butter 
 till it is of a proper consistence. Fry artichoke bottoms in 
 thin slices, and garnish with eggs boiled hard and minced 
 small. 
 
 Note, that this must necessarily be, for the generality of 
 stomachs, a very unwdiolesome dish. The peculiarity of 
 albumen of which eggs chiefly consist, arises from the fact 
 that, when once it has undergone the change which it ob¬ 
 tains by being boiled or otherwise strongly heated, it cannot 
 be restored to its original state of a viscid liquid as it is 
 found in the raw egg ; and it would appear, therefore, that 
 when hardened it is difficultly, if at all, miscible with the fluids 
 in the stomach : in wffiat that change consists, does not now 
 seem to be accurately known; we only know its conse¬ 
 quences. We may note here, in passing, that gelatine may 
 again and again be dissolved in water, and dried and yet 
 retain its original qualities : a proof that it is totally different 
 from albumen. Eggs raiv are, therefore, in all probability 
 
112 FRICASSEES. — MUSHROOMS, FISH. 
 
 the best state in which the) T can be eaten and then best 
 perhaps when mixed with some generous wane. 
 
 OF EGGS WITH ONIONS AND MUSHROOMS 
 w r e cannot of coarse approve; those who choose such a 
 dish may thus prepare it: boil the eggs hard, take out the 
 yolks w'hole and cut the whites into slips; cut also some 
 onions and mushrooms and fry them with a little butter or 
 good dripping; add the whites, turning them about a little; 
 if there be any fat pour it off and then flour the onions, and 
 add a little good gravy; boil this up, season with pepper 
 and salt, and then put in the hardened yolks. 
 
 MUSHROOMS should be w r ell cleaned by being peeled 
 and having the insides scraped, and then be soaked in salt 
 and water for half an hour or more ; if buttons rub them with 
 a flannel; and if large they may be cut into two or more 
 pieces ; stew them in a small quantity of water, to which 
 add a little salt till they are tender; add now a little chop¬ 
 ped parsley and an onion stuck with cloves, to which some 
 add a glass of w T ine. Shake the whole up with a large 
 piece of butter rolled in flour to which add three spoonfuls 
 of thick cream and a little nutmeg; when the mixture has 
 simmered a few minutes, take out the onion and cloves, 
 and pour it into the dish to be served up. 
 
 ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS may be fricasseed either 
 dried or pickled. If dried they should soak in warm w r ater 
 for three or four hours, the water being changed during that 
 period two or three times; put now some cream into a 
 saucepan with a large piece of butter, and stir them one 
 w r ay till the butter is melted: put in the artichokes and 
 when hot they may be served up. 
 
 SKIRRETS must be well cleansed, boiled in water till 
 they are tender, then skinned and cut into slices and 
 served up hot in the following sauce: a little cream, a 
 piece of butter rolled in flour, the yolk of an egg w'ell 
 beaten, a little grated nutmeg*, a glass of white wine, 
 and salt, all which must be boiled up together for a few 
 minutes. Put the roots on the dish and pour the sauce 
 over them. 
 
 TO FRICASSEE FISH. The fish of whatever kind 
 to be fricasseed must, of course, be first completely 
 
113 
 
 FRICASSEES. — EELS, TENCH. 
 
 cleansed and washed; then the head and bones are to be 
 separated from the flesh and that must be cut into pieces 
 of the length and breadth of about three fingers, and 
 put into a stewpan with butter sufficient to stew them 
 gently till they are done; they should be often turned 
 during the process, towards the latter end of which some 
 sweet herbs, an onion, an anchovy or two minced, pepper, 
 salt, lemon peel, and some claret, and what spice you 
 choose, must be added, when the whole should stew for a 
 few minutes longer. Make a sauce with the yolks of eg'gs 
 well beaten, to which add oysters, pickled mushrooms, and 
 capers at your pleasure, and, of course, the gravy in which 
 the fish was stewed. Some will make a gravy by boiling 
 the head and bones in water for half an hour or more, and 
 in which they stew the fish ; or some good gravy may be 
 added to the fish while stewing, in which case the wine 
 may be very well omitted. 
 
 As one or two fish require more particular directions we 
 here give them. 
 
 EELS being skinned and notched from end to end, cut 
 each into four or more pieces and lay them in spring water 
 for half an hour to crimp; dry them in a cloth and put 
 them into a stewpan with some butter, an onion and a 
 little minced parsley; set the pan on the fire and shake 
 them about for a few minutes, and then put in some white 
 wine and some good broth, the quantity of each, which 
 should be equal, will depend upon the quantity of your eels 
 and the discretion of the cook ; add also some pepper, salt, 
 and a little mace. Let the whole stew together for about 
 half an hour, then adding the yolks of some eggs well 
 beaten, a little grated nutmeg and minced parsley; simmer 
 jfor a few minutes, and then squeeze in the juice of a lemon; 
 'shake the whole well and serve it up. Your garnish should 
 be lemon. 
 
 TENCH, and indeed many other small fish may be 
 fricasseed in a similar manner. 
 
 EELS another way. Skin and wash some good eels, 
 cut them in pieces about four inches long, dry them in a 
 cloth, then dip them in egg, roll them in fine bread crumbs, 
 and fry them a light brown ; lay them on a sieve before the 
 fire to dry the fat from them. Then prepare the following 
 
114 FRICASSEES. — SOLES, FLOUNDERS. 
 
 sauce: half a pint of port wine, three table spoonfuls of 
 mushroom catchup, the juice of a lemon, a tea-cup full of 
 gravy, an onion, a few cloves, a small bunch of sweet herbs, 
 and three teaspoonfuls of anchovy sauce ; put this with the 
 fish into a stewpan, and let them simmer g-ently for ten mi¬ 
 nutes or longer if the fish be not done. Take out the fish and 
 keep it hot; strain the liquor and take off all the fat, 
 thicken with flour and butter; put the fish in a hash-dish 
 and pour the gravy over it quite hot.— Yf* 
 
 SOLES and other FLAT FISH may be fricasseed as 
 directed in our first article ; but these are usually divided 
 into fewer pieces, six or eight, and the head and bones are 
 boiled in water to make gravy for stewing them. 
 
 SKATE and THORNBACK have the flesh separated 
 from the bones as other fish ; but they must be stewed in a 
 small quantity of water with spices and sweet herbs for 
 about a quarter of an hour; then take out the herbs, and 
 add to every pound of your fish a quarter of a pint of good 
 cream, some butter rolled in flour and a glass of wine ; the 
 whole must be shaken continually one way till the fricassee 
 is thick and smooth. Garnish with lemon. 
 
 FLOUNDERS, having the flesh separated from the bones 
 and head, and divided into about six or eight pieces, must be 
 dried in a cloth, dredged with flour, and fried in beef 
 dripping till they are crisp. Remove the fish from the pan 
 which must be made clean, into which put some minced 
 oysters, with their strained liquor, some white wine, grated 
 nutmeg, and minced anchovy. Let these stew together for 
 a few minutes, then put in the fish with some butter; 
 shake the whole well, and when hot serve it up. Some 
 will have for garnish the yolks of eggs boiled hard and 
 sliced lemon; the reader already knows our opinion of hard 
 boiled eggs. 
 
 Note .—This is by far the best method of fricasseeing 
 fish which has been presented to our notice; but even here 
 the wine might be very appropriately omitted. 
 
 * For this and many other useful recipes we are indebted to a 
 lady resident at the west end of the town, who desires that her 
 name may not be made public : in justice to her we have distin¬ 
 guished her obliging communications with a Y, as above. 
 
FRICASSEES.— OYSTERS, RAGOUTS. 115 
 
 SALMON and other Jish of similar firmness may be 
 treated in the same manner as flounders. 
 
 CODS SOUN'DS being cleansed and cut into pieces 
 should be boiled in milk and water till tender, after being 
 drained put them into a saucepan with bruised mace or 
 grated nutmeg, pepper, and salt, to which add some cream 
 to your fancy, a piece of butter rolled in flour or pure 
 starch, and keep shaking the whole till properly hot and 
 sufficiently thick, when it may be served up with a garnish 
 of sliced lemon. 
 
 OYSTERS are usually fricasseed thus: stew for a few 
 minutes a little butter, a slice of ham, and an onion stuck 
 with cloves, and then add a little flour, some good broth, 
 and a bit of lemon-peel; put in the oysters and let them 
 simmer till thoroughly hot; thicken now a little cream 
 with the yolks of two eggs and a bit of butter ; take out the 
 ham, herbs, onion, and lemon-peel, and add a little lemon 
 juice. Shake the whole in the pan; when it simmers serve 
 it up. 
 
 Note .—This is a villainous compound when compared 
 with our directions for stewing oysters, which see. That 
 stomach must be a good one which can endure such a dish. 
 
 RAGOUT is a French word implying a relish or excite¬ 
 ment ; it is pronounced Ragoo here as well as by the 
 French ; it is commonly applied to dishes highly seasoned. 
 The following are some of the most usual ragouts; but the 
 professed cook, and especially the epicure whose palate 
 requires such sort of excitement, and alas! for him who 
 does require such, will doubtless be found fertile in inven- 
 tkrns of this order. We can only say, generally, that we 
 do not approve of them : the simplicities of our nature are 
 in such dishes greatly counteracted. 
 
 A RAGOUT OF BEEF may be made with any beef 
 that has a portion of fat attached to it; but all the bones 
 must be separated from it, and the meat must be cut into 
 moderately sized pieces, floured and then fried in a stewpan 
 with butter till it is brown; it must then be covered in the 
 pan with the following gravy: take a pound of lean beef 
 and half a pound of veal both cut small, some sw T eet herbs, 
 an onion, some whole pepper, two or three bits of mace, a 
 small carrot sliced, [to which some will add a slice of bacon 
 
116 RAGOUTS.—OX-PALATES, MUTTON. 
 
 steeped in vinegar, a crust of bread toasted brown, and if 
 the quantity of your beef be large, a quart of white wine 
 which is directed to be boiled with the other ingredients, 
 till it is half wasted ; a greater absurdity never was com¬ 
 mitted] and a quart of boiling water; let all the ingredients 
 stew gently for at least an hour, when the gravy must be 
 strained off and put into the pan with the fried beef, to 
 which add some truffles and morels minced, with some fresh 
 or dried mushrooms; to which some will needlessly add a 
 little catchup. Stew the whole till the sauce becomes thick; 
 then add some artichoke bottoms quartered, and a few 
 pickled mushrooms. The whole must be boiled together 
 till the beef is tender; lay the meat in your dish and pour 
 the sauce over it. 
 
 Note .—In truth, this is neither more nor less than 
 steived beef; the dish will be found, however, described as 
 a ragout in almost all our cookery books, in some with the 
 addition of a sweetbread, a palate stewed tender, some 
 cocks-combs, forcemeat-balls and celery; a pretty com¬ 
 pounded hodge-podge ! 
 
 OX-PALATES must be boiled till they are tender, and 
 then cut into pieces, some of which may be square and 
 some oblong. Melt a piece of butter in a stewpan, to 
 which add a spoonful of flour or rather pure starch, stir 
 them well till the mixture becomes smooth; add now some 
 good gravy, shalots minced, two or three slices of lean ham 
 and half a lemon ; to which some will add a glass or more 
 of wine, but it is unnecessary : the quantity of gravy must 
 be portioned to the quantity of your palates; boil the whole 
 for twenty minutes and strain off the liquor, which put into 
 the pan with the palates, some forcemeat-balls, truffles, and 
 morels, pickled or fresh mushrooms stewed in gravy; 
 season with pepper and salt. Boil up the whole together 
 for a few minutes, and then serve it up. Your garnish 
 may be lemon or beet root. 
 
 MUTTON may be made into a ragout in a similar way 
 to that described in the preceding article; or it may be 
 fried first as beef and subsequently stewed in gravy: it 
 must of course have the bones taken from it and be cut into 
 pieces. The garnish may be pickles and sliced lemon. 
 
 LAMB freed from the bones and cut into pieces, the 
 
RAGOUTS.— SWEETBREADS, VEAL. 117 
 
 skin being previously taken off, may be larded with bacon 
 fried of a light brown, stewed in mutton gravy suffi¬ 
 cient to cover it, and seasoned with sweet herbs, pep¬ 
 per, salt, and spice ; half an hour’s stewing will be 
 sufficient. Strain off the gravy (keeping the lamb hot) and 
 add to it some oysters, fried brown, and freed from the fat, 
 half a glass of port wine, a few mushrooms, and a bit of 
 butter rolled in pure starch; boil them together for a few 
 minutes with the juice of half a lemon. Lay the lamb in 
 the dish and pour the sauce over it. 
 
 SWEETBREADS are sometimes first roasted in a 
 Dutch oven, being previously rubbed over with the yolk of 
 an egg strewed with crumbs of bread, then seasoned with 
 herbs, pepper, &c., then warmed in some good gravy and 
 served up wuth forcemeat; others will cut them into pieces, 
 rub them with the yolk of an egg, flour, and pepper, salt, and 
 some spice, and then fry them brown ; and stew them in 
 some gravy with cayenne and other accompaniments. 
 
 VEAL must be separated from the bones, cut into pieces 
 of a moderate size, and fried in lard of a light browrn ; they 
 are then stewed with sweet herbs, parsley, &c. in good veal 
 broth or veal stock till nearly done, and the liquor become 
 thick, when truffles, some fried slices of throat sweetbread, 
 egg-balls, artichoke bottoms, catchup, pepper, lemon 
 juice, and salt are added ; let the whole stew till it is quite 
 done. 
 
 Or Veal may be half roasted and then freed from the 
 bones and stew r ed in veal gravy with morels and truffles ; 
 when nearly done put in some oysters, eggs boiled hard, 
 and other condiments, adding a sweetbread as above. You 
 may garnish with pickled barberries. 
 
 Or V’eal cut into pieces may be larded with bacon dipped 
 in the yolk of an egg, strewed with minced thyme and 
 i lemon peel, and fried brown in a stewpan ; while others 
 will order a sheet of strong cap paper formed into the 
 shape of a dripping pan, buttered all over, and placed on a 
 gridiron which must be set over a charcoal fire, into which 
 the veal must be put and let it do leisurely. After it is 
 done a strong high seasoned gravy must be got ready, into 
 which are put mushrooms, pickles, force-meats, oysters 
 stewed and fried, which, in serving up, must be laid round 
 
118 ItAGOUTS.— CALF’S FEET, GOOSE. 
 
 the dish. If you desire a white ragout you may add to it 
 some white wine, the yolks of eggs well beaten, and some 
 cream. 
 
 Note, the dripping pan of paper is the acme of the 
 ridiculous; for the rest you may employ them or not as 
 you choose. 
 
 Nota bene, the above directions for ragouts of veal will 
 apply to any joint; but the second is usually applied to a 
 breast of veal and the last to a neck. Note also, that, in¬ 
 stead of gravy or even broth, some will only employ water 
 with a thickening of butter and flour or of pure starch. 
 
 CALF’S FEET must be first boiled, after which the meat 
 must be freed from the bones, sliced, and then browned in 
 a frying pan ; add to them some beef gravy with truffles, 
 morels, pickled mushrooms, the yolks of eggs boiled hard, 
 salt, and some butter rolled in flour : let them stew together 
 for a few minutes. Serve them up with parsley and 
 butter. 
 
 PIG’S FEET AND EARS must be boiled till they 
 are tender; cut the ears into long slips, split the feet down 
 the middle and stew them in beef gravy, a little lemon 
 pickle, catchup, and browning, to which add some salt and 
 a piece of butter rolled in flour for ten or more minutes; or 
 you may fry the feet of a nice brown before stewing them. 
 Lay the feet in the middle of the dish and the ears round 
 them. Pour the gravy strained over them, and garnish 
 with crisped parsley. 
 
 Note.— Some will dip the feet and ears in the yolk of an 
 egg, and roll them in bread crumbs and seasoning before 
 setting them to stew. 
 
 A GOOSE must be thus treated to constitute a ragout. 
 Skin it first, then dip it in boiling’ water; break the breast 
 bone that it may lie quite flat, and season it with pepper, 
 salt, a little bruised mace; lard it and then flour it all over. 
 Melt a pound of sweet dripping or of purified beef suet in a 
 stewpan, and when it is boiling hot put in the g-oose ; as 
 soon as it is brown all over add a quart of beef gravy 
 boiling hot, some sweet herbs, some spices, whole pepper, 
 two or three small onions, to w'hich some add a bay leaf, but 
 it is poisonous. Cover it closely and let it stew gently ; for a 
 small goose, from an hour to an hour and a half wall be 
 
RAGOUTS.-FISH-SOUNDS, OYSTERS. 119 
 
 enough; a large one will require nearly two hours. Cut 
 now some turnips and carrots into small pieces, slice also 
 three or four onions, boil them till they are tender and then 
 stew them with some pepper, salt, and a piece of butter 
 rolled in flour or pure starch, in half a pint of good beef 
 gravy for about fifteen or twenty minutes. When the 
 goose is done drain it well from the liquor in which it was 
 dressed, put it into the dish and pour the prepared gravy 
 over it. 
 
 Note. —We consider the beef gravy added to the fat in 
 order to dress the goose, and afterwards to be separated 
 from it, and perhaps thrown away with the fat, a decided 
 piece of wastefulness. Surely, if the goose were first cut 
 up as if for eating and broiled or fried till it was brown 
 and nearly done and then subjected to half an hour’s stew¬ 
 ing in the prepared gravy, every essential purpose of a 
 ragout would be obtained : in fact any tyro in cookery can 
 make a better ragout of a goose than this. 
 
 THE LIVERS OF POULTRY are thus usually made 
 into a ragout. They must be, of course, cleaned, and then 
 soaked in cold water for half an hour or more ; put them 
 into a saucepan with some gravy, pickled mushrooms, or a 
 , little catchup, and a bit of butter rolled in pure starch ; 
 
 season with pepper and salt, and stew them for ten or 
 j twelve minutes. In order to make a handsome dish the 
 5 liver of foivls may be thus done, and the liver of a turkey 
 should be broiled and laid in the middle of the dish, and 
 n served up with stewed fowls’ livers around it. Pour the 
 sauce over the whole and garnish with lemon. 
 fi COD AND OTHER FISH SOUNDS may be made 
 into a ragout thus : lay them in warm water for a quarter of 
 ' in hour; take them out and simmer them in good veal 
 , gravy till done enough ; thicken them with flour, butter, 
 
 ’ ind a little cream, to which add a hit of lemon peel, nut- 
 " peg, and a very small bit of mace. — Y. 
 
 1 OYSTERS are usually made into a ragout by being’ 
 , irst separated from their liquor, then dipped in a batter made 
 • vith the yolks of eggs, nutmegs, and other condiments, 
 t :ream or milk and flour, and then fried brown in a stewpan 
 vith butter; being thus done they are set before the fire; 
 J hestnuts ready blanched must then be fried in the batter; 
 
120 RAGOUTS.—MUSHROOMS, ASPARAGUS. 
 
 when these are done take them also out and keep them 
 warm. Pour all the fat, &c. out of the pan, flour it and 
 rub butter over it; put in the liquor of the oysters with 
 some bits of mace, the chestnuts and some wine ; boil these 
 for a few minutes, and then add the yolks of eggs well 
 beaten and mixed with some cream ; stir the whole well; 
 when it is thick and fine lay the oysters in the dish and 
 pour the ragout over them. You may garnish with chest¬ 
 nuts and lemon. 
 
 Note .—Any one who desires an unwholesome mess may 
 here have it in tolerable perfection; we do not know to 
 what country w r e are indebted for it; but it is assuredly 
 not an English dish. We hesitated for some time as to 
 the propriety of taking any notice of it; but we have de¬ 
 cided in the affirmative. 
 
 MUSCLES may be fried for a minute in a stewpan with 
 butter and some minced parsley, to which add flour, cream, 
 pepper, salt, nutmeg, and lemon juice ; boil the whole up ; 
 or put good gravy instead of cream, which is better and 
 more wholesome; but they will then be brown, not white. 
 
 MUSHROOMS being’ peeled and the insides cleansed, 
 must be broiled first; when the outside is brown stew them 
 in water sufficient to cover them for ten minutes ; then add 
 a little white wine, browning’, and vinegar, thicken with 
 butter and pure starch by a little boiling’ Serve them up 
 with sippets of bread. 
 
 A CAULIFLOWER should be separated as for pickling 
 and stewed till it is tender in g’ood gravy. Season with 
 pepper and salt, and serve it up with the g’ravy over it. 
 You may garnish with some of the cauliflower carefully 
 boiled. 
 
 Note .—This is notproperly a ragout; it is, nevertheless, 
 a very simple and a very wholesome dish. 
 
 ARTICHOKE BOTTOMS may be made into a ragout 
 in a similar manner as the preceding; but previously to their 
 being dressed they should be soaked in warm water for two 
 or more hours. Your seasoning may be catchup, cayenne, 
 and salt; the gravy may be thickened with a little pure 
 starch. 
 
 ASPARAGUS, being scraped and washed, must be cut 
 as far as the heads are green and good, and then stewed in 
 
ragouts: cabbage, french beans. 121 
 
 butter with endive, a young lettuce, and an onion, for about 
 ten minutes, shaking- them, of course, about; season with 
 pepper and salt, and strew in some flour or pure starch, to 
 which add some good gravy. Stew the whole till the sauce 
 becomes of a proper consistence and then serve it up. A 
 few of the tops of the asparagus may serve as garnish. 
 
 CUCUMBERS are made into a ragout by being sliced 
 and stewed in gravy with condiments ; but we consider 
 cucumbers in every shape a dish by no means to be recom¬ 
 mended, not even when stuffed with forcemeat, as they 
 are sometimes directed to be with the addition of wine. 
 
 ENDIVE finely blanched, is sometimes formed into a 
 ragout with asparagus, and celery as a condiment, by being- 
 stewed in white wine; to the sauce are added butter, flour, 
 
 ■ and yolks of eggs, cream and spice. We do not envy any 
 i, one’s taste who desires such a dish. 
 
 CABBAGE too has been forced into the service of a 
 ragout. Here we have a singular variety; besides the 
 cabbage, are added to it the flesh of a plaice or a flounder, 
 j and hard boiled eggs, butter, onions, and a long list of condi¬ 
 ments follow ; a precious compound of epicurean absurdity ! 
 
 FRENCH BEANS. String and clean your beans, cut 
 \ each in two but do not split them ; and let them lie in salt 
 and water for fifteen minutes or more ; dry them in a cloth 
 and then fry them in sweet dripping till they are a nice 
 brown ; take them out, pour all the fat out of the pan into 
 which put some water; boil it and then add some butter 
 rolled in flour or pure starch, some catchup, mushroom 
 ^pickle, white wine, an onion stuck with cloves, some bruised 
 mace, or grated nutmeg, pepper, and salt. Simmer all 
 
 ! together for a few minutes and then put in the beans. Let 
 the whole be well mixed; take out the onion and pour all 
 into your dish. You may garnish with pickles or what 
 you please. 
 
 We have done with Ragoilt: 
 
 Though it does not please us 
 It might haply please you ; 
 
 lbr others disposed to believe that, 
 
 “ Much mystery lurks 
 
 In soups, or sauces, or a sole ragout/’— Byron. 
 
 “ But what are your soups, your ragouts, and your sauce. 
 Compared to Old English Roast Beef ?”— 
 
 Hone’s Table Book, page 178. 
 
 G 
 
 4 
 
122 
 
 MADE-DISHES. 
 
 MADE DISHES —Why all dishes are made 
 By the art of the cook, or the tricks of the trade ; 
 
 Or, by that good dame— 
 
 Whom the gourmands detest. 
 
 Though her dishes are best. 
 
 Yet least known unto fame— 
 
 Simplicity. 
 
 Lord Byron has most happily described a modern dinner, 
 and to him we must refer for the particulars of it, assured 
 that he who likes to laugh at the folly of an epicure may 
 do so with his lordship’s assistance in the first style; in the 
 mean time we must to our task, with a slight parody of one 
 of his lordship’s line3, 
 
 “ How shall we get this gourmand section through?” 
 
 Adieu, therefore, to simplicity awhile ; 
 
 And come ye the comforts of each Epicurean, 
 
 Whether consul, or count, or the humble centurion— 
 Fricandeaux ; Surprizes — 
 
 Surprising indeed. 
 
 That of sense take no heed ; 
 
 And Scollops all sizes ; 
 
 Beef, too, d-la-mode , 
 
 Must be placed in our code. 
 
 With rich Haricot, 
 
 Made with mutton or veau ; 
 
 And the ten thousand dishes of fancy’s wild dream ; 
 
 Or the fruit of the fancy of Monsieur CAReME.* 
 
 * This gentleman is one of the most distinguished and volu¬ 
 minous of modern French writers on the art of cookery. We shall 
 take occasion to notice his works more at large in our Introduction ; 
 but we may here observe that he is the most imaginative of all the 
 cooks whom it has been our good fortune to meet; indeed, much 
 too imaginative for the details of domestic and ordinary cookery; 
 all with him is in the superlative degree ; he deals with few per¬ 
 sons but emperors and kings, princes, and their ambassadors ; almost 
 every thing French is with him, too, excellente, superbe. He admits, 
 however, that “ la boucherie de Londres est tres belle, tres ra- 
 goutante, et de belle qualite.” He admits, too, that our fish¬ 
 mongers’ shops are very superior to those in France. But he, 
 nevertheless, contends that “ La France est veritablement la mere 
 patrie de l’art culinaire.” One wonders how, with this national 
 complacency, his good sense did not suggest to him the great dif¬ 
 ference of tastes, habits, and constitutions; and that, after all, 
 roast beef might possibly suit an Englishman better than soup 
 maigre, or the many other more compounded dishes of the French 
 table. The men of the south, seem to forget that the men of the 
 north require more stimulants, both internally as well as exter¬ 
 nally, to keep their mortal machines in motion, than those living 
 in more warm and favourable climates. 
 
MADE-DISHES.-HARICOT OF VEAL, &C. 123 
 
 TOMATO CHOPS. Cut from the best end of a neck 
 of lamb about ten chops; pepper, salt, and fry them a light 
 brown; then put them in a stew-pan, with a little good 
 gravy and three tablespoonsful of tomato sauce; let them 
 stew till they are tender; then take off all the fat and 
 thicken the gravy with flour and butter, and three more 
 spoonsful of the sauce ; simmer the whole a few minutes, 
 and serve it up very hot.—Y. 
 
 HARICOT OF VEAL. Take the best end of a neck 
 of veal, saw the bones off short; stew it in a pint of gravy 
 till it is tender; have ready a pint of green peas boiled; 
 two cucumbers pared and cut into thin slices, and two 
 cabbage-lettuces cut into quarters ; stew these in some broth 
 till they are tender, then put them to the peas and the veal; 
 stew all together ten minutes; serve it up hot with force¬ 
 meat balls round the dish.*—Y. 
 
 A FRICANDEAU OF VEAL is made in many ways; 
 perhaps the following is as good as any. Cut off from a 
 leg of veal some slices or steaks about half an inch thick, 
 four or more inches long and two or three wide; immerse 
 them in boiling water for a few minutes and then take them 
 out, and stew them till they are tender in some good gravy, 
 to which add some sw r eet herbs, salt, pepper, and mace, and 
 a piece of butter. Some put in also carrots; and some 
 lard the veal with slices of bacon; others lard them with 
 cardoons, dredge them with flour, and fry them a fine 
 brown before stewing them. When done, lay your veal in 
 a dish and pour the gravy strained over it. Force-meat 
 balls or yolks of eggs boiled hard are occasionally added to 
 this dish, which some serve up with sorrel sauce. The 
 garnish may be sliced lemon and barberries, 
 j VEAL OLIVES are made several ways; some take 
 thin slices of fat bacon about six inches long and four broad, 
 and lay on them slices of veal, of the same size, cut from a 
 
 * The word haricot is French, and, in that language, implies 
 literally French-bean ; it is pronounced here, as well as in France, 
 harico. Itis, however, commonly applied in this country to a stewed 
 lldish composed, as above, of animal and vegetable substances. We 
 conjecture that, originally, Frencli-beans constituted one of the 
 chief ingredients of the dish, and, if they still entered into it, 
 in the green state in which we eat them, they would not be the 
 vorst which we often find in these compounds. 
 
 G 2 
 
124 MADE-DISHES.— GRENADE OF VEAL. 
 
 fillet; they are then rubbed over with the yolk of an egg, a 
 thin layer of force-meat is put on them, and each slice of 
 bacon and veal is rolled up, a lark-spit is run through each 
 sideways, a string being tied over them to prevent their 
 falling off, and they are gently roasted. Others make a 
 ragout of oysters or sweetbreads, with mushrooms and 
 morels, and lay them in the dish with the veal olives when 
 done. Serve them up with good gravy in the dish and 
 forcemeat balls around it. Garnish with lemon. 
 
 A GRENADE OF VEAL is sometimes made with 
 larded slices of veal, squab pigeons, veal sweetbreads, and 
 some mushrooms, stewed in some good gravy, till they are 
 all tender; slices of ham and bacon, with forcemeat and 
 the larded veal, are then placed in the stewpan with some 
 yolks of eggs, to which are to be added the ragout of 
 pigeons ; all which must be stewed till it is done. A pretty 
 compound indeed ! 
 
 GRENADINES OF VEAL are more simple than the 
 preceding 1 ; they are similar to the fricandeau ; three pieces 
 make a dish. 
 
 A LOIN OF VEAL. Take the best end ; cut out the 
 fillet and make a forcemeat with it and a little suet, some 
 green sweet herbs, truffles, mushrooms, and lemon peel, 
 all chopped small, to which add the yolks of two eggs, the 
 erumb of a French roll soaked in cream, some pepper and 
 salt ; mix them all well together and put them. into the 
 under part of the loin which roll in a veal caul and then in 
 a buttered paper; roast it gently ; half an hour before it is 
 done take off the paper in order that it may become brown ; 
 glaze it, and serve it up with white sauce.—Y. 
 
 A LOIN OF VEAL EN EPIGRAM. Roast a loin 
 of veal exactly as for eating; (see Roasting, page 43,) when it 
 is done remove it from the fire and carefully take off the 
 skin from the back part without breaking it; cut out all the 
 lean meat letting the ends remain so that they may hold the 
 following : let all the meat cut out be minced very fine 
 together with the kidney ; to which add a little veal gravy, 
 enough to moisten it, with the gravy from the roasted loin, 
 and also a little pepper, salt, some lemon peel chopped fine, 
 the yolks of three eggs, a spoonful of catchup, and a little 
 butter rolled in flour : set the whole for a few minutes over 
 
MADE-DISHES. — CALF’S HEAD SURPRIZE. 125 
 
 the fire, carefully shaking it that it may not burn ; put it 
 into the place from which the meat in the loin has been 
 taken and pull the skin over it: if the skin should not quite 
 cover it, give it a brown with a hot iron where wanting; or 
 rather put it into an oven or lay it before a good fire for 
 about fifteen minutes, and it may be served up. Garnish 
 with barberries and lemon. 
 
 Note, this direction is substantially that given by Mrs. 
 Glasse, alias Sir John Hill; (more than sixty years since ;) 
 but surely the flour directed with the butter may be ad- 
 1 vantageously omitted. 
 
 VEAL ROLLS consist of thin slices of veal covered 
 with forcemeat, rolled up, tied with thread and roasted on 
 I a bird-spit being previously rubbed over with yolks of eggs 
 and floured ; they should be basted with butter. They are 
 
 I to be served up with some good gravy, with truffles, morels, 
 and mushrooms, garnish with lemon. 
 
 CALF’S HEAD SURPRIZE. We have given already 
 more than one method of dressing a calf’s head, which are 
 surely enough for the economist and the good housewife ; 
 but as this dish is considered by many a very good one, and 
 is, besides, one of very long standing in this country, we 
 | comply with custom in this instance ; from which, however, 
 
 I we make it a point always to depart when more simple 
 i and better methods of cooking are presented to us : we 
 are, nevertheless, no advocates for novelty in cooking, 
 
 I per se knowing very well that many of our good old English 
 dishes, with a good appetite, are the best which can be 
 devised. 
 
 Take a calf’s head with the skin on, (it being well cleansed 
 s and freed from the hairs,) and raise the skin with a sharp 
 knife carefully, and separate also as much meat from the 
 bones as you possibly can, so that, when the bones are re- 
 i moved, it may appear like a whole head on being stuffed 
 it with the following ingredients : scrape a pound of fat bacon 
 I very fine, (some employ, instead, half a pound of veal, a 
 pound of beef suet and half a pound of fat bacon; the veal 
 i to be pounded in a mortar and the rest to be chopped very 
 fine,) the crumb of a twopenny loaf, a small nutmeg grated, 
 i a little salt, cayenne pepper, and lemon peel all chopped 
 i fine ; mix the whole well together with the yolks of six eggs ; 
 
126 
 
 MADE-DISHES.-VEAL SCOLLOPS. 
 
 put some of this stuffing- into the ears and the rest into the 
 head. This being done, place the stuffed head in a deep 
 pan or jar sufficiently large to hold it conveniently, and add 
 to it two quarts of water, (some may be disposed to employ 
 good gravy instead of water,) half a pint of wine, a blade 
 or two of mace, a bundle of sweet herbs, an anchovy, two 
 spoonsful of walnut and of mushroom catchup, the same 
 quantity of lemon pickle, a little salt and cayenne pepper. 
 Lay a coarse paste over it to prevent evaporation, and put 
 it into a very hot oven, in which it must remain for two 
 hours and a half. The head must now be taken out and 
 laid in a soup dish ; take the fat off from the gravy which 
 strain into a stewpan and thicken it with some butter rolled 
 in Hour; boil a few minutes and then add the yolks of six 
 eggs well beaten with half a pint of cream; having now 
 ready some forcemeat balls boiled with half an ounce of 
 truffles and morels, pour the gravy over the head, garnish 
 with the truffles, morels, and forcemeat balls, and bar¬ 
 berries and mushrooms, and serve it up. It is scarcely 
 necessary to add that the stuffing should be well secured by 
 sewing- or otherwise within the head, before it is put into 
 the pan to be baked. 
 
 Note, you must not boil the forcemeat balls in the gravy ; 
 but rather in some broth or milk and water. And note more 
 particularly , that the tongue, the palate, and the brains, 
 being scalded and otherwise suitably prepared, must be 
 chopped very fine and mixed with the forcemeat stuffing as 
 above directed; or they may be made, in the usual way, 
 into forcemeat balls; or the tongue and the palate may be 
 boiled till they are tender, and served up in a separate dish 
 with the brains made into sauce, poured over them; or 
 the brains may be served up separately in a sauce tureen. 
 See Boiling, page 3. 
 
 VEAL SCOLLOPS, sometimes called Scotch Scollops * 
 are dressed in various ways, the following is the simplest 
 and we believe the best: cut veal from a fillet into small thin 
 pieces, dip them in the yolk of an egg, and then strew over 
 
 * This word, which we spell scollop, is usually spelled in books 
 collop; but we think this last is erroneous: for it is, we believe, 
 an anglo-saxon word, and it is, besides, very generally pronounced 
 scollop. See my work on the Somerset Dialect. J. J. 
 
MADE-DISHES.—BOMBARDED VEAL. 127 
 
 them crumbs of bread and fry them a nice brown. Let them 
 be served up with some good gravy, into which put some 
 grated nutmeg and seasoning. Garnish with hot pickles 
 and barberries 
 
 Or, after the scollops are fried you may put them into a 
 stewpan with some good gravy, mushrooms, truffles, morels, 
 artichoke bottoms, some slices of throat sweetbreads pre¬ 
 viously fried, and the yolks of eggs boiled hard. Simmer 
 them for a quarter of an hour or more, adding salt and 
 pepper. Serve them up with the gravy and slices of boiled 
 bacon around the dish. 
 
 Or, they may be made dressed in a much more compli¬ 
 cated manner by having added to them ox-palates, force¬ 
 meat balls, the gravy thickened with butter and flour, to 
 ! which may be added a minced anchovy, some catchup, 
 lemon pickle, salt, and cayenne pepper, to which some will 
 add a glass of wine. Serve them up w T ith the gravy poured 
 ' over them. Garnish with lemon and hot pickles. For other 
 I Scotch Scollops, see forwards under Beef. 
 
 BOMBARDED VEAL is a fillet of veal having the 
 bone taken out its place supplied with a rich stuffing of 
 which fat scraped bacon forms a great part, wdth various 
 condiments to which are added cream and egg; besides 
 which cuts are made into the fillet at about an inch apart, 
 into some of which is put a portion of the stuffing, into 
 others boiled and minced spinach, and into others chopped 
 ! oysters and beef marrow. In this state having a veal caul 
 wrapped round it, it is placed in a pot with a small quan¬ 
 tity of water and baked. The time necessary for its being- 
 done will of course depend upon the weight of the fillet. 
 I See Baking. We pass no opinion on this dish. 
 
 VEAL SWEETBREADS are sometimes stuffed with 
 a forcemeat made of the flesh of a fowl and bacon both 
 ! chopped fine, and afterwards beaten in a mortar, to which 
 are added various condiments and the yolks of eggs. They 
 are then put into a stewpan having layers of bacon at the 
 bottom over which are placed thin slices of veal, and lastly, 
 the stuffed sweetbreads with boiling water or broth suffi¬ 
 cient to cover them, and stewed for two or more hours. 
 The gravy is then strained off, the fat taken from it, and if 
 
128 MADE-DISHES.—SCOTCH SCOLLOPc. 
 
 it be too thin it is reduced by boiling to a proper thickness, 
 and then poured over the sweetbreads. 
 
 Note. —This is an expensive, troublesome, and, in our 
 opinion, an unnecessary dish : it is sometimes, however dis¬ 
 tinguished by the fine name a la dauphine. 
 
 SWEETBREADS are dressed in several other ways ; 
 some are called sweetbreads a la daube, being larded with 
 bacon boiled for a few minutes and then stewed with gravy. 
 Others are sweetbreads en Gordiniere ; these are dressed 
 similarly to the preceding with the addition of an omelette 
 of eggs and spinach with some other ingredients. 
 
 VEAL STUFFING is directed to be prepared with the 
 dishes which we have respectively described; but we think 
 it may be useful to the cook to be able to refer at once to 
 it here, more especially as the recipe is a very good one and 
 may be employed for poultry, as well as many other birds ; 
 it is besides a direction which has been followed in our own 
 family for nearly one hundred years : we may, therefore, 
 write probatum est for it with the greatest propriety. 
 
 Take raw veal, beef suet, and grated bread, of each an 
 equal quantity; mince them very fine, to which add, also 
 minced, some sweet herbs, a little onion, and pepper, and 
 salt, mix the whole well together and moisten it with the 
 yolk of eggs sufficient to make it of a proper consistence. 
 
 Several other made dishes of veal may be named, as 
 Veal cutlets in papilotes; Porcupine of a breast of 
 veal; Fricandeau of veal a-la-bourgeois; a Calf’s 
 pluck; a Pillow of veal; a Shoulder of veal d-la- 
 Piedmontoise ; a Chump of veal a-lu-daub ; a Midcalf ; 
 and a Savoury dish of veal, which we presume any 
 cook could prepare. But were we to describe these it 
 would savour too much of the art of book making; our 
 chief object in this work is to condense not to amplify. 
 We proceed, therefore, to the made dishes of which beef 
 forms the chief ingredient. 
 
 SCOTCH SCOLLOPS. For the following directions 
 we are indebted to Mrs. Dalgairns, whose work on 
 Cookery is distinguished by considerable talent and sim¬ 
 plicity; we admit that the Scotch must be the best judges 
 of their ow r n method of cooking. 
 
MADE-DISHES.—BEEF-A-LA-MODE. 129 
 
 “ Cut any piece of tender lean beef into slices, beat 
 them; brown some butter in a saucepan ; put in the beef, 
 with some salt, pepper, and a finely minced onion—half 
 a minced apple is an improvement; add a little hot water ; 
 cover the pan closely, and let them stew till tender. 
 
 “ Another way. Cut some very thin slices of beef; 
 rub with butter the bottom of an iron steivpan that has a 
 cover to fit quite closely; put in the meat, some pepper, a 
 little salt, a large onion, and an apple minced small. 
 Cover the stewpan and let it simmer till the meat is very 
 tender.” 
 
 BEEF SCOLLOPS are also dressed in many other 
 ways ; one of the simplest and, we believe, the best is the 
 following. Take any piece of beef that is tender, some 
 choose the rump, others the fillet from the under part of it, 
 and cut it into small thin slices, and fry them till they 
 are three parts done ; put them into a stewpan with slices 
 of pickled cucumbers, small mushrooms stewed, blanched 
 oysters, and some good gravy properly seasoned. Let them 
 stew till they are tender. Some will add a few capers, a 
 bit of pickled walnut and some onion chopped fine. Your 
 garnish may be lemon. 
 
 BEEF A-LA-MODE is also prepared in various ways ; 
 the following are, we think, the best: cut any beef that is 
 tender into pieces of about four ounces each ; put them 
 into a stewpan with pepper, salt, and bruised cloves, to 
 which add a little vinegar or lemon juice and water suffi¬ 
 cient to cover the whole ; (some will add wine and even 
 porter or ale ; but they are quite unnecessary.) Stew them 
 in a very gentle heat for three hours or more. The gravy 
 should be strained, and the fat, if any, taken off it. Serve 
 the beef up with the gravy poured over it. 
 
 Note. —Some will employ veal or other broth instead of 
 water; and some will add to the stew, carrots, onions, 
 sweet herbs, and lemon peel, of course broth will make the 
 dish richer. v 
 
 Another way. Take a small buttock of beef, and cut it 
 into pieces of four ounces or more each ; some will have 
 them a pound weight, but this is too large and will require 
 a long time indeed to stew. Lard the pieces with bacon, 
 fry them brown, and then put them into a stewpan with 
 
 G 3 
 
130 MADE-DISHES.— BEEF-A-LA-DADB, 
 
 about two quarts of broth, some sweetherbs, an onion, mace, 
 pepper, and salt. Let them stew till the meat is tender, 
 which lay in the dish and pour the gravy strained and 
 freed from the fat over it. 
 
 Note .—Some will add, to flavour these stews, bay leaves, 
 all-spice, and plenty of ground black pepper, on which last 
 it would appear that a good deal of the flavour of the 
 a-la-mode beef of the cooks’ shops of London depends. 
 The reader will not forget that bay-leaves are poisonous. 
 
 A-LA-MODE VEAL may be prepared in exactly the 
 same manner as above directed for beef. 
 
 BEEF A-LA-DAUB is another of those dishes which 
 has been often and long ago described in our cookery 
 books; we believe that few economical persons will ever 
 give themselves the trouble to prepare it; but as we sup¬ 
 pose that the method of doing so will be expected in our 
 work, we here give it in as concise a form as we possibly 
 can. 
 
 Cut the bone from a rump of beef; (some will take, in¬ 
 stead, a part of the leg of mutton piece or the mouse 
 buttock,) cut also some fat slices of bacon as long as the beef 
 is thick and about a quarter of an inch square ; take a little 
 mace, a few cloves, and a small nutmeg grated ; chop a hand¬ 
 ful of parsley and sweetherbs fine, to which add a little salt and 
 pepper ; roll the bacon in this seasoning, thrust it through 
 the beef with a larding pin and stew it in good gravy suffi¬ 
 cient to cover it, with a little garlic chopped fine, fresh 
 mushrooms, two large onions and a carrot, for six hours. 
 Take it out, strain the gravy, antTTake the fat off it; put 
 the meat and the grav} T again into the pan, and add two 
 glasses of wine to it. If it should not be found sufficiently 
 seasoned, more pepper and salt (and indeed other condi¬ 
 ments which you may choose) can now be added; stew 
 half an hour more, adding, towards the end of that period, 
 some artichoke bottoms, truffles, morels, some oysters, and 
 a spoonful of vinegar, or rather the juice of a lemon. Serve 
 it up with the sauce poured over it. 
 
 Note. —Some will put stewed cabbage, cauliflower, and 
 other similar vegetables into the sauce; indeed, there is no 
 end to fancies of this kind; we wonder that celery is not 
 also recommended. 
 
MADE-DISHES. — BEEF OLIVES. 131 
 
 BEEF TREMBLANT. This is another of those dishes 
 long known and described. It is not compatible with our 
 design to comment upon every term employed in cookery ; 
 
 ■ that would be an endless task ; but we may here, once for 
 all, observe that many writers on our art have been ex¬ 
 tremely careless in regard to the orthography of its terms. 
 Thus, we find this dish has been called beef tremblonque 
 and beef tremblent; we have given the proper French 
 orthography; but why not call it at once trembling or 
 shaking beef ? Oh, that is so vulgar ! Change the word 
 and how fine it becomes ! 
 
 The following is found in substance in most of our 
 cookery books from Mrs. Glasse downwards to those of 
 I the present century. 
 
 Take a brisket of beef and tie up the fat end tightly; 
 boil it in water seasoned with salt and a handful of allspice, 
 to which add two onions, two turnips, and a carrot, gently, 
 for six hours; in the mean time melt a piece of butter in a 
 stewpan, to which add two spoonsful of flour, and stir till 
 the mixture is smooth; put to it a quart of gravy, a spoon¬ 
 ful of catchup, two glasses of wine, and some carrots and 
 turnips, cut as for a haricot; stew all gently till the roots 
 
 ! are tender; season with pepper and salt. Skim all the fat 
 clean off, put the beef into the dish and pour the gravy, 
 thus made, over it. You may garnish with pickle of any 
 sort. Of course you will serve it up with proper vege¬ 
 tables, such as greens, carrots, or potatoes, or all of them. 
 
 Note. — Some will make a gravy instead of the above, 
 with chopped parsley, an onion, pickled cucumbers, a 
 walnut and capers with a pint of gravy, butter rolled in 
 flour, and pepper and salt, boiling the whole for ten or 
 j more minutes. 
 
 BEEF A-LA-ROYAL is a brisket of beef boned and 
 treated in a similar manner as mentioned for bombarded 
 veal; wdien stuffed a pint of hot wine is poured on it; it 
 is then floured and baked for three hours. 
 
 BEEF OLIVES are made in various ways. The best 
 is, we believe, the following:—cut some thin steaks of 
 beef of what dimensions you please, lay over them veal 
 stuffing, to which some add a little finely chopped shalot ; 
 roll them up and tie them with thread ; fry them in sweet 
 
132 
 
 MADE-DISHES. —BEEF BOUILLI. 
 
 dripping till they are brown ; then stew them in good 
 gravy (to which some add a glass of wine) and a little 
 cayenne for about an hour, depending, of course, upon 
 their number and size. You may add to the gravy mush¬ 
 room catchup, garnish with pickles. 
 
 Note .—Some direct beef olives to be made with slices of 
 bacon rolled up with the beef; others to stew them only. 
 Cold beef, if underdone, may be also made into olives in the 
 same way. If you choose the steaks large the olives may, 
 perhaps, require a skewer instead of thread. Some will 
 thicken the gravy with butter and flour, this we do not 
 advise. 
 
 BEEF BOUILLI maybe made with any pieces of beef; 
 the brisket, the rump, a leg, or a shin, or as much of any 
 larger joint as you think proper to employ. The chief thing 
 to be attended to in preparing this dish is that it be boiled 
 gently till it is quite tender', if it be of many pounds 
 weight it will demand several hours in its preparation. The 
 beef should be put into the water, with some turnips, 
 carrots, and celery, all cut into pieces sufficient to cover 
 the whole ; if during the boiling’ the water decreases con¬ 
 siderably, more must be from time to time added to it in 
 a boiling state. To the beef some will add mutton chops 
 to make the soup richer; others recommend veal or other 
 cold meat, as well as the heads, &c. of poultry and game. 
 It may be served up together with the soup ; but most will 
 perhaps prefer the beef in one dish and the soup in a tureen ; 
 if there be much fat on it, that ought to be taken off; the 
 soup may be seasoned with what you please; celery seeds 
 will impart an agreeable flavour ; pepper and cayenne may 
 also be added to it, and at pleasure, fried or toasted 
 bread. 
 
 Affile.—This is not only an economical but a very whole¬ 
 some dish. We do not recommend many condiments ; 
 some will possibly be pleased with leeks, others onions 
 stuck with cloves, and parsley. 
 
 PORTUGAL BEEF is the meat of a rump of beef 
 cut in two, the thin part fried brown in butter, the thick 
 end is stuffed with suet, boiled chestnuts, an anchovy, an 
 onion, and pepper, and then stewed in good broth till 
 tender; lay the stewed part in the dish and the fried part 
 
MADE-DISHES.—BEEF FORCED. 133 
 
 cut in two on each side of it. Strain the gravy, to tvhich 
 add chopped gherkins and boiled chestnuts. Thicken with 
 burnt butter and boil it up ; season with salt and garnish 
 with lemon —a precious mess! 
 
 A SIRLOIN OF BEEF EN EPIGRAM is dressed 
 in a similar manner to that described under loin of veal 
 en epigram, which see, with a little difference in the stuf¬ 
 fing such as the addition of onions ; and instead of mincing, 
 the beef is cut into small pieces only, and made hot in a 
 gravy with the onion chopped fine, a little catchup, some 
 small pickled cucumbers, to which are added the gravy 
 which comes from the beef, and a little butter and flour. 
 This mixture is put in the place whence the meat was cut 
 out, and the skin drawn over it. Garnish with lemon 
 and pickles. 
 
 A SIRLOIN OF BEEF FORCED maybe treated in 
 the same manner as a loin of veal, page 124 ; but to the 
 stuffing should be added minced onions, or shalots, the 
 suet should also be in larger quantity. Most cooks like 
 to mix with the stuffing a glass of red wine; the gravy is 
 also usually made with some red wine and the gravy of 
 the meat. 
 
 A RUMP OF BEEF FORCED is also dressed in a 
 similar manner. 
 
 A ROUND OF BEEF FORCED is usually laid in 
 a pickle, composed of common salt, saltpetre, to which 
 some will add bay salt,* and some sugar, for a week; it is 
 then washed, &c. and holes are made in it which are filled 
 with veal stuffing, which see; it is then baked : a little 
 water is usually put into the dish, or some will put in small 
 beer ! Or, instead of baking, it may be stewed over a slow 
 fire ; or it may be boiled. When cold it is a handsome 
 dish for a cold collation. 
 
 Note .—The usual condiments of beef may be served up 
 with this dish. 
 
 * The cook ought to know that there is no difference between 
 bay salt and common salt, except in the size of its crystals; and 
 that, therefore, unless it be desired that the salt should lie upon 
 the meat and dissolved slowly, as bay salt generally does, its 
 addition in salting provisions is unnecessary: this observation 
 is of importance and should be attended to. 
 
134 MADE-DISHES.—BEEF-A-l’ECARLATE. 
 
 BEEF STEAKS ROLLED are an old-fashioned dish; 
 but among gourmands it is now in occasional request. It 
 consists in strewing over the steaks a force-meat thus 
 made : veal, the flesh of a fowl, cold ham, the kidney fat of 
 a loin of veal, a sweetbread, truffles, morels, parsley, thyme 
 and lemon peel, all chopped fine, to which are added 
 grated nutmeg, pepper, salt, and some cream; some will 
 pound the veal, fowl, cold ham, and sweetbread together 
 first. These being strewed over the steaks they must be 
 rolled firmly up, and if necessary skewered and then 
 fried of a nice brown. Pour now all the fat away from 
 them, and put them into a stewpan with some good gravy, 
 a little catchup, a glass of red wine, a few mushrooms, let 
 them stew for half an hour. Take out the steaks, cut them 
 in two, lay the cut side uppermost, and pour the sauce over 
 them. Garnish with lemon. 
 
 BEEF A-L’ECARLATE may be made with almost 
 any piece, but a brisket or rump is usually employed. As 
 this dish derives its name from its colour, saltpetre should 
 always be employed in salting it. After the bone is re¬ 
 moved, salt it, therefore, with a little common salt and a 
 good deal of saltpetre, and coarse sugar, to which you 
 may add what seasoning you like ; some will put in juniper 
 berries, garlic, basil, &c. &c.; the sugar will, we believe, 
 materially improve it and, therefore, it may be added in 
 pretty large quantity. Rub the beef well with these in¬ 
 gredients and let it lie in salt for about a fortnight turning 
 it every day. It may be then boiled with carrots, &e. It 
 is best, however, as a cold dish. 
 
 Note .—It has been generally considered that the addi¬ 
 tion of saltpetre to salted provisions makes them hard, 
 and consequently more indigestible; we believe that there 
 is some truth in this opinion, although we are not prepared 
 to justify it by any substantial reason except the fact of its 
 making them hard. We think the giving of a red colour 
 to animal food by such addition is not, unless beneficial in 
 others respects, a thing to be desired; yet, who likes a 
 pale coloured ham ? We think it probable too, that pork 
 is rendered more wholesome by being salted with saltpetre; 
 its being generally preferred of a red colour would seem to 
 
MADE-DISHES. 135 
 
 countenance this opinion, but we think that beef is in¬ 
 jured by it. 
 
 A TONGUE AND AN UDDER are dressed in two 
 or more ways : one is by being salted for a few days, then 
 boiled till tender and afterwards roasted together and served 
 up with gravy and currant jelly sauces, or they are first 
 parboiled, and the udder is stuffed with veal forcemeat; 
 they are roasted and served up with good gravy and sweet 
 sauce. 
 
 KILKENNY TRIPE is an Irish dish. Boil some 
 large onions all cut in two and peeled and washed in 
 water till they are tender; then put in the tripe which 
 should be that called double, and cut into squares ; boil it 
 for ten or more minutes, then pour off all the liquor, shake 
 in a little flour to which add butter, some salt, and mus¬ 
 tard ; shake all over the fire till the butter is melted and 
 serve it up. You may garnish with lemon or barberries. 
 
 HARICOT OF MUTTON. This dish, as well as other 
 haricots, admits of various modes of preparation. Thefollow- 
 ing, although old fashioned, is a good one: take some chops 
 from the best end of a neck or of a loin of mutton and fry 
 them of a nice brown ; then stew them in water sufficient 
 to cover them ; you will add, to constitute your hari- 
 «ot, carrots and turnips cut into pieces, as w 7 ell as some 
 bits of celery; some will add, besides, a cabbage lettuce 
 fried, and some heads of asparagus ; the seasoning may be 
 common or cayenne pepper. They should boil altogether 
 till the whole is tender. Serve it up without any thick¬ 
 ening is the gravy, which is the most wdiolesome way. 
 
 Note .—Some will add onions to this dish; and some 
 will put in the mutton chops to stew without previously 
 frying them. 
 
 'A SHOULDER OF MUTTON SURPRISED con¬ 
 sists in its being |»alf boiled and then stewed with two 
 quarts of veal gravy or good broth, four ounces of rice, a 
 little bruised mace, and some mushroom powder. When it 
 has stew T ed an hour, or rather till the rice is quite done, 
 take up the mutton, and keep it hot. Add to the 
 rice half a pint of cream and some butter rolled in flour; 
 mix all well together and boil a few nllhutes? Lay the 
 
136 MADE-DISHES.-MUTTON WITH A IIAUT GOUT. 
 
 mutton on the dish and pour the gravy over it. Garnish 
 with pickles, lemon, or barberries. 
 
 MUTTON SCOLLOPS. Cut these from a leg of mut¬ 
 ton, which has hung some days, as you do from a fillet of 
 veal; lay them on a gridiron and baste them with butter 
 as they broil; when they are almost broiled enough take 
 them off, sprinkle them over with grated nutmeg and salt, 
 and stew them in gravy, claret, some butter, and a few 
 minced shalots, for fifteen or more minutes ; then add an 
 anchovy or two: when these are dissolved, by a continu¬ 
 ation of the stewing, your scollops may be served up wuth 
 the gravy poured over them. Garnish with pickles. 
 
 Note, a similar dish to this is sometimes called Oxford 
 John. 
 
 MUTTON KEBOBBED, or CABOB, consists in cut¬ 
 ting a loin into four or more pieces, taking the skin oft, 
 rubbing them with the yolk of an egg, and shaking over 
 them some crumbs of bread and parsley chopped fine, and 
 pepper and salt; the pieces are then put again together, 
 roasted on a spit and basted with butter till they are done. 
 Serve them up with some good gravy in the dish. Garnish 
 with pickles. 
 
 Note, it may be found convenient to tie the pieces to¬ 
 gether before they are placed on the spit. You may roast 
 the kidney or not; but a considerable portion of the fat 
 of the inside of the loin should be taken away before it is 
 set down ; and the fat, if any on the gravy of the meat, 
 should be also removed before it is served up, or has the 
 additional gravy poured over it. Some will thicken the 
 gravy with flour and butter; but this we do not advise: 
 you may add, if you please, some catchup to it. 
 
 A LEG OF MUTTON, with a HAUT GOUT, may 
 be easily obtained; it consists simply in hanging it up for 
 a week or more ; some will hang it in the winter for three 
 weeks till it begins to enter into the putrid fermentation : 
 you may stuff it with wdiat condiments you please and then 
 roast it. Serve it up wfith good gravy mixed with red 
 wine. Some currant jelly will be also a pleasant addition. 
 
 Note, some will choose such a dish as this, and fancy it 
 as good as venison ; we think it a dangerous abomination. 
 
MADE-DISHES.-HO DGE-PODGES. 
 
 137 
 
 Some too will have it cut like a haunch of venison. We 
 have not the least objection to mutton hanging till it is 
 tender; but we do most decidedly object to such a haut 
 gout; we have known more than one person much in¬ 
 jured by eating it. 
 
 A LEG OF MUTTON is sometimes roasted with oys¬ 
 ters stuffed into every part. If you like such a dish 
 have it! or if you do not choose oysters you may take 
 cockles. 
 
 MUTTON RUMPS and KIDNEYS are a troublesome 
 
 dish, but some, nevertheless, desire it. Stew some rumps 
 in good gravy till they are tender; take them out and rub 
 them with yolk of egg; sprinkle over them crumb of bread, 
 and what condiments you choose, such as nutmeg, pepper, 
 parsley, &c.; fry them of a light brown. The kidneys 
 being larded with bacon must be set before the fire in a 
 dutch-oven while the rumps are stewing. When these as 
 
 I well as the rumps are done, take the gravy in which the 
 rumps were stewed, removing from it the fat, and put to it 
 a few ounces of boiled rice, a little cream, catchup, or 
 
 I mushroom powder, (some will add instead of these an 
 onion stuck with cloves and a bit of mace); boil these 
 together for some minutes. Serve the rice and sauce 
 up with the rumps on it, laying a kidney between every 
 rump. Garnish with some coloured pickles. Some will 
 have eggs boiled hard and cut in half: a goodly bit of indi- 
 
 gestion ! 
 
 DISGUISED MUTTON CHOPS are seasoned with 
 
 nutmeg, salt, &c. rolled each in a sheet of white paper, 
 well buttered, and fried in lard or dripping till they are a 
 nice brown. Serve up with good gravy. Garnish with 
 horse-radish and fried parsley. 
 
 HODGE PODGE or HOTCH POTCH dishes may 
 
 be made in various ways; they generally consist of more 
 than one kind of meat and several vegetables ; and they 
 are most commonly stewed. They are also sometimes pre¬ 
 pared economically from cold meat, bones, ham, &c. An 
 excellent hodg’e-podge may be made with a brisket of veal 
 cut into pieces, fried brown, and then stewed till tender, 
 with green peas, a lettuce, pepper, sweet herbs, parsley, 
 an onion, a few cloves, and a bit of mace; instead of let- 
 
138 MADE-DISHSES.— LEG OF LAMB FORCED. 
 
 tuce you may put the heart of a savoy cabbage, a cauli¬ 
 flower, or some tender cabbage sprouts. This is not only, 
 a good but an economical dish. 
 
 Note .—You may avoid the frying of the veal if you 
 please, but the dish will not be so savoury. 
 
 A hodge-podge may be also made with mutton and beef, 
 &c.; another of ox-tails and pickled pork, &c. •, another 
 with veal and mutton, &c.; another with beef or ham 
 bones and mutton chops, stewed with dry peas, celery, and 
 onions; or with beef, veal, and mutton, rice or Scotch 
 barley, &c. 
 
 Note .—In order that these dishes may be the most whole¬ 
 some, avoid as much as possible the addition of flour to 
 them, particularly as thickening for the gravy: if they re¬ 
 quire being thickened, which we cannot anticipate, pure 
 starch should be employed in preference to flour. 
 
 THE UMBLES OF DEER are thus dressed: season 
 the kidney and the fat of the heart with pepper, salt, and 
 nutmeg; fry them till they are brown, and then stew them 
 in good gravy till they are tender: squeeze in a little 
 lemon-juice. Stuff the skirts with a forcemeat consisting 
 of the fat of the venison, fat bacon, grated bread, pepper, 
 mace, sage, an onion chopped very fine, and mixed with 
 the yolk of an egg; strew over them some chopped thyme 
 and lemon-peel, then tie them to a spit and roast them. 
 When they are done lay the skirts in the middle of the dish 
 and the fried kidney, &c. around it. . 
 
 A LEG OF LAMB FORCED. Slit the hack part of 
 a leg of lamb and take out the meat leaving the skin on, 
 taking care that you do not deface the other side; 
 drop the meat taken out with marrow, beef suet, a few 
 oysters, an anchovy, an onion, some sweet herbs, lemon - 
 peel, and grated nutmeg, to which some will add crumb of 
 bread; beat the whole in a mortar, stuff the leg- with it, 
 and then sew it up. Rub the leg all over with the yolk 
 of eggs, spit, flour it, and roast it, basting with butte] 1 ; 
 an hour, or a little more, will be sufficient for it. While 
 the leg is roasting cut a loin of lamb into steaks, season 
 them with pepper, salt, grated nutmeg, and such Other con¬ 
 diments as you may choose, taking care that they are all 
 finely minced, and fry them in butter a nice brown. Serve 
 
MADE-DISHES.— LAMB CHOPS, HAGGIS. 139 
 
 \ up the roasted leg with half a pint or more of good gravy, 
 and lay the fried steaks around it. Garnish with lemon. 
 
 Note .—Some will make a thick sauce with a strong 
 i gravy, in which spice has been boiled, and some oysters 
 with their liquor, mushrooms, two glasses of white wine, 
 some butter rolled in flour, and the yolk of an egg; these 
 being mixed and boiled up are poured over the whole dish: 
 but we being no friends to such compounds, cannot recom¬ 
 mend them. The quantity of beef-suet and marrow should 
 together be about one-fourth of the weight of the meat 
 which is cut out; the marrow may be omitted—there is 
 no necessity for it. 
 
 LAMB’S BITS. The stones being skinned and split, 
 laid on a dry cloth, with the sweatbread and liver, and well 
 floured, must be fried till they are a light brown. Lay the 
 bits in your dish, and put plenty of fried parsley in lumps 
 over them : pour round them melted butter. 
 
 LAMB’S CHOPS EN CASSEROLE consist in their 
 being dipped in the yolk of an egg, strewed with bread 
 crumbs mixed with some spice, and pepper and salt, and 
 then fried a light brown. Serve them up round in your 
 dish with a hole in the middle, into which put a sauce 
 made rvith sweet herbs, and parsley chopped fine and 
 stewed in a little thick gravy. Your garnish may be fried 
 parsley. 
 
 OTHER LAMB CHOPS. See Tomato Chops , 
 page 123. 
 
 A HAGGIS consists of the heart, lights, and liver of a 
 sheep, minced with beef-suet, the crumb of a French roll 
 soaked in cream and spices, with stoned raisins, some 
 sweet wine, and flour, to make the whole of a proper con¬ 
 sistence with the yolks of eggs, and some sheeps’ chitter¬ 
 lings ; these are to be put into a well-cleaned sheep’s bag, 
 and boiled for about three hours. 
 
 Note, the quantities of all the ingredients must be left 
 to your own discretion. 
 
 A SCOTCH HAGGIS is more simple; it consists in par¬ 
 boiling the heart and lights of a sheep, mincing them very 
 small, adding one pound of minced suet, two or three large 
 onions, minced, two small handfuls of oatmeal; season highly 
 
 IK 
 
 
140 
 
 MADE-DISHES.— CER VELAS. 
 
 with pepper and salt, and mix all well together. Boil it 
 in a sheep’s bag for three hours. See Mrs. Dalyairii s 
 Cookery. 
 
 CERVELAS FUMES, or, as they are commonly called 
 in this country, Servelas or Saveloys, are well known 
 articles in the shops of London. We are indebted for the 
 following- directions to the Cuisinier Royal of MM. Viard 
 and Fouhet.* We might have given it, being a trans¬ 
 lation from a foreign work, as an original; but candour 
 compels us to this course— suum cuiqae. We give a literal 
 version. 
 
 According to the quantity of the Cervelas which you 
 wish to make, mince some flesh of fresh pork mixed with 
 a fourth of its weight of bacon ; season it with salt, 
 pepper, spices, [nutmeg is added in the original,] aniseed, 
 and coriander seed; put these into guts prepared for the 
 purpose according to the size which you desire to give your 
 cervelas ; tie them at both ends, and hang them up in the 
 chimney, so that they may be smoked ; alter three days, 
 boil them in water for three hours with a little salt, a clove 
 of garlic, some thyme, a bay leaf, basil, and a bunch of 
 parsley : let them cool. 
 
 Note. —Cervelas are also made in other ways; one called 
 Cervelas a VItalienne, consists in mixing with the pork 
 and bacon, besides the seasoning, equal parts of white wine 
 and the blood of the pig yet hot; the cervelas when made 
 are also ordered to be boiled first and smoked afterwards; 
 and this we think is the preferable method for all. 
 
 Note also that the time of boiling them must depend 
 upon the size of the guts; if large they will require three, 
 perhaps even more, hours; if small, two or even less than 
 this. 
 
 Sometimes, too, other meat is put with the pork, as veal, 
 the flesh of hare or rabbit; and occasionally pork, with a 
 fair portion of fat and the seasoning, is only employed; 
 onions are also sometimes added to it; it is necessary, 
 that all the condiments should be minced or powdered 
 fine. The bay leaves in them we do not admire. 
 
 * Thirteenth edit. Paris, 1828, page 20G. See also Manuel de 
 Cuisinier, par Cardelli. Paris, 1827, page 148. 
 
MADE-DISHES. — BEEF BRAINS. 141 
 
 Cervelas are usually eaten cold, being cut into slices, 
 with mustard, &c. They are an agreeable relish. 
 
 It should not be forgotten that the smoke of wood 
 1 for cervelas is the best. 
 
 A PIG BARBECUED is prepared the same as for 
 roasting; but it is frequently chosen older: some indeed 
 will have it even ten or twelve weeks old. It is stuffed 
 with liver, sage leaves, a few anchovies, and some crumb 
 of bread, all chopped fine, to which are added four ounces 
 of butter, some cayenne pepper, and half a pint of good 
 wine. It is then set down to roast at a good distance from 
 a brisk fire, singed, and well basted with two or more 
 bottles of wine, placed in the dripping-pan for the purpose: 
 when about half roasted put two penny rolls under the pig; 
 and if there is not wine enough put in more : when it is 
 nearly done take the rolls and sauce out of the pan, put 
 to the sauce half a lemon, a bundle of sweet herbs, an 
 anchovy, chopped small; boil for five minutes. When the 
 pig has roasted, according to its size, three, four, or more 
 hours, and is done, take it up, put into its mouth an orange, 
 a lemon, or an apple, and a roll on each side. Skim the 
 fat oft your sauce, which strain hot over the pig. Garnish 
 with lemon and barberries. 
 
 Note. —You may bake the pig instead of roasting it; 
 but it ought to be, nevertheless, well basted with the wine, 
 ; which may be port or madeira as you choose. 
 
 We might here give other methods of dressing a pig, 
 such as a Pig au Pcre Duillet, a favourite dish, we pre¬ 
 sume, of some monk : it consists of stewing it, when cut 
 1 into quarters, with bacon, in broth, wane, and condiments, 
 to which are added s'weetbread, the yolk of eggs, &c. 
 But this dish, as well as a Pig en Matelote, which is a 
 similar dish, -with the addition of eels, craw-fish, and con¬ 
 diments, does not seem to require a particular description. 
 
 BEEF BRAINS have been lately presented to the 
 cooks of this country, as an especial object of their atten¬ 
 tion. They are dressed in various ways in France, and 
 are considered a useful and agreeable dish. We find in 
 the French books, a great variety of directions for prepa- 
 ing them; such as Cervelles frites, Cervelles en Matelote, 
 
142 MADE-DISHES.-BEEF BRAINS EN MARINADE. 
 
 Cervelles d la poulette, Cervelles au Beurre noir* Cer- 
 velles d la Bourgeoise, Cervelles d la sauce piquante, 
 Cervelles en marinade, fyc. It is not necessary that we 
 should detail all these; two, however, as being- useful, we 
 here give; the first is, indeed, not only a dish, but contains 
 proper directions for preparing the brains for being dressed 
 in any way. See Calf's Brains, page 4. 
 
 % Plunge the brains into lukewarm water, in order to 
 separate the blood and remove the skin which covers them ; 
 then put them for some time into a fresh quantity of luke¬ 
 warm water; next plunge them into boiling water to blanche 
 them; after some minutes take them out, and put them 
 into fresh water, and boil them with the juice of a lemon, 
 some salt, an onion cut in pieces, parsley, and a bay leaf, 
 till they are done. They may be served up with parsley 
 and butter. 
 
 BEEF BRAINS EN MARINADE. After having 
 cleansed and scalded your brains, as in the preceding direc¬ 
 tion, boil them first in a marinade, [see Marinade, in our 
 Chapter on Sauces] ; then dip them in batter, and fry them 
 with butter till they become a nice colour, taking care that 
 the butter is not made too hot. They should be served up 
 cut into moderate pieces, and surrounded with fried parsley. 
 Your sauce may be parsley and butter.*' 
 
 Note. —These are sometimes called simply Beef Brains 
 fried. 
 
 Thus, after much labour, abundance of pains. 
 We conclude this sub-section with service of brains ; 
 Our own have been tasked to present unto you 
 Of many made-dishes a sort of review— 
 
 The good pray select, and the bad pray eschew. 
 Proceed we more labour to lay at your feet. 
 
 And poultry, yame, fish, shall the section complete. 
 
 * Black butter. See our Chapter on Sauce, 
 t See Manuel de Cuisinier, par Cardelli, p. 93. 
 
MADE DISHES.-A GOOSE-A-LA-MODE. 143 
 
 Of Poultry, Game, or Fish, you make 
 A wholesome dish whichever you take ; 
 
 Some condiments you may combine ; 
 
 And let Discretion hand you wine ; 
 
 But Poultry, Game, or Flesh, or Fish 
 Apart, howe’er a sumptuous dish. 
 
 Are rarely join’d, by cooking care. 
 
 Our approbation once to share : 
 
 Nature hath taste so nicely made. 
 
 You cannot thus her reign invade; 
 
 You may, indeed, produce surprise. 
 
 O’er which calm judgement sits and sighs ; 
 
 But such a dish, and season’d high. 
 
 Will be like fam’d tantatling-pie.* 
 
 A GOOSE may be made into a dish in a variety of 
 ways; we have already described several methods of dress¬ 
 ing it; the following will be found, at once, a nutritious and 
 a savoury dish. Your g’oose being properly prepared, as 
 well as the stuffing, as directed under roasting, take a pound 
 of good rump-steaks or any other beef that is tender, cut it 
 into small pieces, or mince it if you please, and then mix it 
 with the prepared stuffing, and put the whole into the belly 
 of your goose, and roast it till it is about three parts done; 
 then take it up and carve it into pieces, as if for eating, 
 and stew it in good gravy (with all the stuffing) sufficient % 
 to cover it for an hour or thereabouts. Serve it up with 
 the gravy, &c. poured over it. Some may choose 
 to add to the stew wine and other condiments ; we see no 
 necessity for these additions; on the contrary, if care be 
 taken to remove all the apparent fat in the gravy, this 
 mode of dressing a goose will render it palatable to even 
 delicate stomachs. 
 
 A GOOSE A-LA-MODE consists in its being first 
 skinned and boned, and having its fat taken off; a dried 
 tongue, previously boiled and peeled, is also to be got 
 ready; a fowl is also to be treated in the same way as the 
 goose, seasoned with pepper, salt, and bruised mace, and 
 rolled round the tongue; the goose is seasoned in the same 
 
 * A pie much talked of in the west of England, but which we 
 have never seen ; it is said to be composed of all possible varieties 
 of offal from fish, flesh, and fowl; we hear, in the more polished 
 circles of society, of tantatling-tarts, we presume a similar imagi¬ 
 native composition. The compilers of our dictionaries will, we 
 hope, be much obliged to us for this information. 
 
144 MADE-DISHES.— A MARINADED GOOSE. 
 
 manner; and both the tongue and the fowl are laid on the 
 goose, with some slices of ham between them; (some lay 
 also beef marrow between the tongue and the fowl as well 
 as between the fowl and the goose, but this is an unneces¬ 
 sary extravagance). The whole is then put into a stewpan, 
 with the bones of the goose and the fowl, an onion, a bun¬ 
 dle of sweet herbs, and as much beef gravy as will cover 
 them, and stewed for an hour or more ; when the goose must 
 be taken out, all the fat skimmed off, the gravy strained, is 
 again put to the goose, which is again stewed for half an 
 hour or more, with a glass of red wine, a little catchup, a 
 veal sweetbread cut small, some truffles, morels, and mush¬ 
 rooms. It is served up with the gravy poured over it. 
 Garnish with lemon. 
 
 A MARINADED GOOSE consists in its being boned 
 and then stuffed with the usual goose stuffing, two or three 
 very acid apples, some beef marrow, the crumb of a penny 
 loaf, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and lemon peel, all chopped 
 fine, and mixed with the yolk of three or four eggs, and a 
 glass of wine; it is then first fried of a light brown, and 
 afterwards stewed in two quarts of good gravy for two 
 t hours ; the goose is taken out, the fat taken off the gravy, 
 to which are added some lemon pickle, a little browning, 
 some red wine, an anchovy chopped, bruised mace, pepper, 
 and salt. Serve up the goose with the gravy poured over it. 
 
 Note .—Some will thicken the gravy wdth butter and 
 flour, a useless practice. 
 
 The goose has been a favourite dish for ages in this 
 country: we conclude our descriptions with the following 
 epicurean 
 
 SONNET TO A GOOSE. 
 
 If thou didst feed on western plains of yore. 
 
 Or waddle wide with flat and flabby feet 
 Over some Cambrian mountain’s plashy moor. 
 
 Or find in farmer’s yard a safe retreat 
 From gipsey thieves and foxes sly and fleet; 
 
 If thy grey quills, by lawyer guided, trace 
 Deeds big with ruin to some wretched race. 
 
 Or love-sick poet’s sonnet, sad and sweet. 
 
 Wailing the rigour of some lady fair ; 
 
 Or of the drudge of housemaid’s daily toil, 
 
 Cobwebs and dust thy pinions white besoil; 
 
 Departed Goose ! I neither know nor care. 
 
 Rut this 1 know, that thou w'ert very fine. 
 
 Season’d with sage and onions and port wine. 
 
 Anthology, vol. i. 1799. 
 
MADE-DISIIES.—TURKEY IN A HURRY. 145 
 
 A TURKEY admits of as great variety of ministration 
 to the taste of a gourmand as any of the larger kind of the 
 poultry tribe; the French have almost innumerable dishes 
 into which the turkey enters. They have Dindon endaube. 
 Galantine de dindon, Dinde d la Providence, and others 
 which we cannot name. One, 
 
 TURKEY A-LA-DAUBE consists in boning it, so as 
 not to spoil its appearance, then stuffing it with chopped 
 oysters, crumbs of bread, pepper, salt, shalots, a little 
 thyme, parsley, and butter, and boiling it in water in a 
 cloth till it is white, but not too much. It may be served 
 with oyster sauce. Or it may be stewed in a gravy made 
 j with the bones and some veal and mutton, to which some 
 will add bacon, seasoning with pepper, salt, &c.; to the 
 gravy are sometimes added stewed mushrooms, stewed 
 palates, and forcemeat balls, sweetbreads, or fried oysters, 
 | slices of lemon, &c. 
 
 Note. —TheFrenchusuallyemployoW turkeys for this dish. 
 \ A TURKEY IN A HURRY being trussed with the 
 ; legs inwards and flattened as much as possible, is put into 
 a stewpan with melted lard, chopped parsley, shalots, and 
 1 mushrooms, to which some will add a little garlic, and after 
 a few r turns over the fire, and the addition of a little lemon- 
 juice to keep it white, it is put into another stewpan, with 
 slices of veal, a slice of ham, and melted lard, and the con¬ 
 diments as before, with pepper and salt; it is also covered 
 with slices of bacon, and set over a slow fire for half an 
 hour ; a glass of wine and a little broth are also added to 
 j complete the process. Skim and strain the sauce, to which 
 1 add some good gravy. The turkey is served up with the 
 i sauce poured over it. The garnish is lemon. 
 
 A TURKEY WITH RAGOUT is stuffed and boiled in 
 the usual way, and then served up with a ragout, composed 
 of slices of throat-sweetbreads, small mushrooms stewed, 
 ;ii artichoke bottoms, egg balls, and veal gravy, stewed for ten 
 For more minutes, to which are added three eggs and some 
 ■cream, which are simmered for five minutes more, and sea¬ 
 soned with salt, lemon-juice, and cayenne pepper. 
 
 We cannot quit the turkey without calling the reader’s 
 attention to a jeu d'esprit supplied to us by that amusing- 
 work, Time's Telescope for 1825. It is entitled 
 
 H 
 
 
146 
 
 MADE-DISHES. — A FOWL FORCED. 
 
 AN ALDERMAN IN CHAINS. 
 
 All hail! thou monarch of the mighty board. 
 
 Majestic TllRKtiY ! 
 
 All hail! the forcemeat balls with which thou’rt stored ! 
 
 All hail ! the sausage fetters steaming o’er thee! 
 
 Hail ye inferior, yet delightful dishes. 
 
 O’er which in trance ecstatic roves my eye ! 
 
 Ye savoury fowls, ye most alluring fishes. 
 
 And brandy flashing in the burnt minc’d pie! 
 
 Hail! cod and oyster sauce ! quailpartridge ! bustard ! 
 
 Lobster ! plum-pudding ! apple-pie ! and custard ! 
 
 After all, we believe that roasted turkey is the best dish 
 made with this bird; and to which the lines above more 
 immediately apply. 
 
 A FOWL A-LA-BRAISE is trussed as for boiling, but 
 with the legs in the body, fat bacon, cut in thin slices, is 
 laid over it; it is then wrapped in a veal caul, (some will 
 previously wrap it in beet-leaves,) and stewed till it is 
 tender in three pints of water, a glass of Madeira wine, 
 some sweet herbs, a bit or two of mace, and half a lemon ; 
 the fowl is then taken up, all the fat is skimmed off from 
 the liquor in which it has been boiled, and, after being- 
 strained, to it is added a pint of oysters and a tea-cup full 
 of thick cream; simmer this mixture for a few minutes. 
 Serve up the fowl with the bacon (and beet-leaves, if any) 
 and caul on, and pour the sauce over it. Garnish with 
 barberries and red beet-root. 
 
 Note. —Some thicken the gravy with flour and butter, 
 but it is not at all necessary : you may add what condiments 
 you please. 
 
 A FOWL FORCED may be thus dressed: cut it down 
 the back and take off the skin whole; cut the flesh from 
 the bones, and chop it with half a pint of oysters and an 
 ounce of beef marrow; season with pepper and salt; mix 
 this forcemeat with cream, lay it on the bones, draw the 
 skin over, and sew up the back. Lay now large thin slices 
 of bacon on the breast of the fowl, fix them on with pack- 
 thread, and roast it for an hour by a moderate fire. Serve 
 it up with a good brown gravy sauce in the dish, the bacon 
 being removed. You may garnish with pickles, mush¬ 
 rooms, or oysters. 
 
 A FOWL MARINADED is another of those compound 
 dishes which might be sometimes required, but for which 
 
MADE-DISHES. — CHICKENS A LA BRAISE. 147 
 
 we see no rational use. It consists in raising- the skin 
 from the breast-bone, and stuffing between the skin and the 
 flesh the following forcemeat; a veal sweetbread, a few 
 oysters, mushrooms, an anchovy, pepper, nutmeg-, lemon- 
 peel, and a little thyme, all chopped small, and mixed with 
 the yolk of an egg ; put some oysters in the body of the 
 fowl, paper the breast, and roast it. Make good gravy, to 
 which you may add mushrooms, if you please. Garnish 
 with lemon. 
 
 Note .—You may be quite sure that many a dyspeptic 
 stomach will reject this fishy dish, how much soever some 
 may esteem it. If you desire a more delicate one, omit the 
 oysters and anchovy; in short, use veal stuffing, which see 
 page 128. 
 
 CHICKENS are made into dishes in various ways; 
 some are so essentially bad, that we do not think it proper 
 even to name them; others, again, have some merit, and to 
 these we proceed to direct the cook’s attention: but simple 
 boiling or roasting is unquestionably the best for chicken. 
 
 CHICKENS CHIRINGRATE,* one of the best of 
 dishes made with chickens, have first the breast-bone flat¬ 
 tened with a rolling pin, without breaking the skin; they 
 are then dredged with flour and fried a light brown ; the 
 fat is drained from them, and they are stewed with some 
 veal and gravy beef cut into thin slices and laid over the 
 chickens, with suitable condiments, in a quart of water for 
 a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes. Take out the 
 chickens, keeping them hot; strain off the gravy, boil it 
 till it is rich, and then add to it two spoonsful of red wine 
 and a few mushrooms. This being- done, put in the chick¬ 
 ens again that they may become hot. Serve them up with 
 the gravy poured over them. Garnish with lemon and 
 some slices of broiled ham. 
 
 CHICKENS A-LA-BRAISE may be dressed as di¬ 
 rected for fowl, page 146; but some will have them a much 
 more compounded dish. It consists of the chicken, bacon, 
 beef, veal sweetbreads, cocks’ combs, an ox-palate, onion, 
 and many other condiments, as well as carrots, artichoke 
 bottoms, and asparagus tops. 
 
 * Whence this epithet arose we cannot divine; we presume it 
 is some foreign word corrupted in assuming an English dress. 
 
 H 2 
 
148 
 
 MADE-DISHES.—DUCKS, PIGEONS. 
 
 CHICKENS, WITH LEMON SAUCE, are either 
 boiled or braised with slices of bacon over them. When 
 done, they are served up with lemon sauce poured over 
 them. 
 
 A DUCK may be treated as a goose in page 143; but 
 some will quarter it, fry it in butter of a light brown, and 
 then stew it in good gravy, to which some also add wine. 
 The stuffing may be, in all respects, the same as for a goose, 
 not omitting the beef. It must be served up with the sauce 
 poured over it. Garnish with lemon and barberries. 
 
 Note .—This last method is called by some cooks Duck 
 a-la-Mode. 
 
 DUCKS A-LA-BRAISE are simmered with slices of 
 bacon or ham, and slices of veal or beef, turnips, carrots, 
 onion, celery, and many other condiments, over a gentle 
 fire till they are of a light brown ; some broth or water is 
 then added, and they are stewed till they are done. The 
 liciuor from the ducks is made into a sauce with parsley and 
 an onion chopped fine, some anchovies, capers, and the 
 juice of a lemon, by boiling the whole for a few minutes, 
 and then it is poured over the ducks. 
 
 A DUCK A-LA-FRANCOISE is first half roasted 
 and then stewed in a rich gravy w r ith roasted chestnuts, 
 thyme, onions, &c. to which is added some red wine ; but 
 we can scarcely think that any Englishman will choose 
 such a dish. 
 
 PIGEONS A-LA-MINUTE. Cut your pigeons in 
 half and fry them in butter ; when they are brown, and 
 about half done, add some champignons, shalots, and 
 parsley minced. Serve them up with a little good gravy 
 and white wine mixed together and poured hot over them. 
 
 PIGEONS EN MATELOTTE are fried in butter, 
 with bacon cut into small pieces; add to them a sauce 
 composed of good gravy and white wine, and some cham¬ 
 pignons.* 
 
 PIGEONS EN COMPOTE must be trussed as if for 
 boiling; but the craws are stuffed with the following:— 
 equal parts of crumb of bread and scraped bacon, which is 
 
 * For this and the preceding we are indebted to the Manuel de 
 Cuisinier of M. Cardelli. 
 
MADE-DISHES. — PIGEONS. 
 
 149 
 
 usually preferred to suet, a little parsley, thyme, a few 
 shalots, some lemon peel, grated nutmeg, pepper and salt, 
 all mixed up together with eggs. The pigeons are, be¬ 
 sides, larded down the breast and then fried till they are 
 brown, and afterwards stewed in some good gravy for about 
 three quarters of an hour. Serve them up with the gravy 
 strained over them, and lay force-meat balls around them. 
 
 PIGEONS A-LA-BRAISE. Lay at the bottom of a 
 stewpan some slices of bacon, veal, and onions, upon 
 which place some pigeons properly trussed and seasoned 
 with pepper, salt, and sweet herbs; lay upon them similar 
 slices of veal and bacon, and stew them gently. When 
 they are done, make a ragout with blanched sweetbreads, 
 truffles, morels, and champignons, and some good gravy ; 
 stew them altogether with the pigeons for a quarter of an 
 hour or more. Put the pigeons in the dish and pour the 
 ragout over them. 
 
 Note .—Some will add, besides veal, some slices of beef; 
 no bad addition. 
 
 JUGGED PIGEONS may be easily prepared, and in 
 several ways. The following is, perhaps, one of the best: 
 season your pigeons with pepper, salt, and spice, and put 
 them into a jug, with some butter, an ounce or more to each 
 pigeon, stopped 'with a cloth so that no steam can get out. 
 Set it in a kettle of water, and let it boil for an hour and a 
 half. \_Note .—This process is called a water-bath, to 
 which we have before alluded. See page 94.] When 
 completed, take out the pigeons, put the gravy arising from 
 them into a pan, to which add a spoonful of wine, some 
 catchup, a slice of lemon, half an anchovy chopped fine, 
 'and some sweet herbs. Boil a little, and thicken with 
 butter rolled in starch or flour. Serve the pigeons up with 
 i the gravy strained over them. You may garnish with red 
 cabbage and parsley. 
 
 PIGEONS A-LA-MONARQUE. Take six pigeons 
 of about the same size, and not more than seven or eight 
 days old, after cleansing and trussing them, melt, or rather 
 make luke-warm, three quarters of a pound of very fine 
 butter, to which add the juice of two or three lemons, and 
 a little salt. Put the pigeons into the butter, and shake 
 them about wfithout putting your stewpan over the fire, in 
 
150 MADE-DISHES. — PARTRIDGES A LA BRAISE. 
 
 order that the skin may not be broken. Cover the bottom 
 of another stewpan with slices of bacon, and lay your 
 pigeons on them so that the feet may be in the centre; 
 pour the whole of your butter upon the pigeons, and 
 moisten them with a large glass of white wine, a spoonful 
 of good gravy (consomme) and some sweet herbs (bouquet 
 assaisonee). Cover your pigeons with slices of bacon and 
 a round of paper ; a quarter of an hour before serving them 
 up these must, however, be removed. Let the dressing be 
 completed with a little fire beneath and hot ashes upon your 
 stewpan. When done, drain them, and serve them up, 
 and in a silver stew-dish or tureen, with a ragout ci-la- 
 Toulouse. Between each pigeon put a blanched cock’s 
 comb and a cray-fish; upon every pigeon a veal sweet¬ 
 bread, with a row of cocks’ kidneys around it. 
 
 Note .—This is, no doubt, a fashionable dish in France. 
 Be it so ; we do not envy our neighbours their culinary 
 taste in this instance.* It is, in our judgment, useless as 
 well as unnecessary. 
 
 A dish, somewhat similar to this, is one long known in 
 this country under the name of Pigeons a-la-daube; but it 
 is not necessary that we should describe it. 
 
 PARTRIDGES A- LA-BRAISE. Take four par¬ 
 tridges and truss the legs into the bodies; lard them, and 
 season with bruised mace, pepper, and salt; lay some slices 
 of bacon in the bottom of a stew-pan, then lay on them 
 some slices of beef, and then slices of veal, all cut thin, to 
 which add a piece of carrot, an onion cut small, some sweet 
 herbs, and whole pepper. Lay in the birds with their breasts 
 downward; place thin slices of veal and beef over them, and 
 some parsley shred fine. Stew them for eight or ten minutes 
 over a slow fire, then give the pan a shake and pour in a 
 pint of boiling water; cover it close, and let it stew half an 
 hour over a brisker fire. Take out the birds and keep them 
 hot; pour into the pan a pint of thin gravy, boil it till the 
 whole is reduced about one half; strain it off, and take off 
 all the fat. During the stewing of the partridges, take a 
 veal sweetbread cut small, some truffles and morels, cocks’ 
 combs, and fowls’ livers, and stew them in a pint of good 
 
 * See Cuisinier Royal, par M. M. Viard and Fouret. 
 
MADE-DISHES.— PHEASANTS, WOODCOCKS. 151 
 
 gravy for half an hour, together with some artichoke 
 bottoms, asparagus tops, both blanched in warm water, and 
 a few mushrooms. Add the other gravy to this, and put 
 in the partridges to become hot. Serve the partridges up 
 with the sauce poured over them. 
 
 PHEASANTS A-LA-BRAISE are treated in the same 
 way as Partridges cl-la-Braise, with this difference, that 
 the bacon is less in quantity and the beef more ; and, of 
 course, as the pheasant is a larger bird than a partridge, it 
 will require more gravy and more time to prepare it; an 
 hour or more will be requisite. Some will add to the gravy 
 catchup and red wine. You may garnish with lemon, and 
 lay forcemeat balls around the dish. 
 
 WOODCOCKS or SNIPES EN SURTOUT. Beat 
 ' together in a mortar equal parts of veal forcemeat, mutton 
 ; suet chopped, and crumb of bread, to which add a little 
 bruised mace, pepper, salt, some parsley, a few sweet herbs, 
 and the yolk of an egg. Lay some of this meat round a 
 baking dish, into which put your birds which must be pre¬ 
 viously half roasted; take care of the trail, chop it, and 
 strew it over the dish. Stew, now in a little good gravy, a 
 sweetbread cut in pieces, artichoke bottoms cut small, some 
 truffles, morels, and mushrooms; beat up the yolks of two 
 or three eggs with a spoonful or two of white wine ; when 
 thick, take it off, cool it, and pour it upon your birds. Lay 
 some hard-boiled yolks of eggs here and there; cover the 
 ; whole of your dish with the remainder of your forcemeat 
 rolled into a sort of paste ; rub it over with the yolks of eggs 
 
 ! and put it into the oven; it will require half an hour’s 
 bakino;. 
 
 Note .—The quantity of your forcemeat must depend 
 upon the size and number of your birds. 
 
 LARKS A-LA-FRANCOISE. Truss them with the 
 ■ii legs across, and then put them on a lark-spit with thin 
 slices of bacon and a vine or a green sage leaf between 
 each ; stew over them crumbs of bread while roasting; or 
 you may omit the bread, if you please, merely strewing over 
 them a little Hour. Serve them up with bread crumbs fried 
 in butter in the middle of the dish, and the birds around it; 
 or the fried bread crumbs around them, and the birds in the 
 
152 
 
 MADE-DISHES. — HARES, RABBITS. 
 
 middle of the dish. Melted butter will be an agreeable ac¬ 
 companiment. 
 
 A FLORENDINE HARE is thus dressed : take a full- 
 grown hare, and let it bang four or five days before you 
 case it. Leave on the ears, but take out all the bones 
 except those of the head which must be left whole. Put 
 into the belly the following stuffing: the crumb of a penny 
 loaf, the liver chopped fine, half a pound of fat bacon 
 scraped, a glass of red wine, an anchovy, two eggs, some 
 sweet herbs chopped fine, pepper, salt, and nutmeg: roll 
 the hare thus stuffed up to the head, and fasten it with 
 packthread as you would a collar of veal; boil it in a cloth 
 for an hour and a half in a stew-pan covered closely, 
 in two quarts of water. When the liquor is reduced to 
 one quart, add a pint of red wine, a spoonful each of 
 lemon pickle, catchup, and browning. Take out your hare 
 and reduce the gravy to a pint, and thicken it with butter 
 rolled in flour. Lay your hare in the dish and poui - the 
 sauce over it, having previously drawn out the jaw-bones 
 and stuck them in the sockets of the eyes; the ears being 
 also laid back on the roll, and a sprig of parsley put into 
 the mouth. You may garnish with barberries and parsley ; 
 Mrs. Glasse says, with water cresses. 
 
 Note .—This is another and, perhaps, the last of those 
 useless and unnecessary dishes, the directions for which, 
 from Mrs. Glasse downwards, are to be found in almost all 
 our cookery books. Here, as on many other occasions, 
 our cooks seem determined that all the virtues of the pint 
 of wine should be destroyed by direct evaporation! 
 
 A FLORENDINE RABBIT is dressed in a similar 
 way as the preceding Florendine hare ; but it is served up 
 with white sauce. Your garnish may be lemon and bar¬ 
 berries. 
 
 RABBITS SURPRISED. Take two rabbits, and stuff 
 them as for roasting; when they are roasted sufficiently, 
 take off the meat clean from the bones which leave whole. 
 Chop the meat very fine with some parsley, lemon-peel, 
 an ounce of beef-marrow, a spoonful of cream, and a little 
 salt; beat up the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, and a bit 
 of butter in a marble mortar; mix all together, and stew it 
 
MADE-DISHES.—MACARONI, RAMEQUINS. 153 
 
 for five minutes; lay it on the bones of the rabbits where 
 | the meat has been taken off pressing it down closely, 
 in order that the rabbits may appear whole; then brown 
 them all over with a salamander. Pour a good brown 
 gravy made as thick as cream into the dish, and stick a 
 sprig of myrtle in their mouths. Serve them up with the 
 livers boiled and frothed. 
 
 RABBITS EN CASSEROLE are cut into quarters and 
 fried in lard or butter; they may be previously larded or 
 not as you choose; they are next put into an earthen jar 
 wfith a quart of good broth, some wine, condiments, and 
 butter rolled in flour, and stewed for about half an hour. 
 
 I They are served up with the sauce poured over them, and 
 a garnish of sliced Seville oranges. 
 
 OYSTER LOAVES. Make a hole in the top of some 
 little round loaves of bread and take out the crumb. Put 
 some oysters into a stew-pan with their liquor, the crumbs 
 taken from the loaves, and a large piece of butter, and 
 stew them together for five or six minuets, then put in a 
 spoonful of cream and fill the loaves with your stew. Lay 
 a bit of crust carefully on the top of each and put them in 
 the oven to crisp. 
 
 MACARONI is an Italian composition, and very little 
 known in this country, except among the more luxurious: 
 it is not in any way an English dish; but some will thus 
 I prepare it: boil a quarter of a pound of ribbon macaroni, 
 (it is to be obtained also in pipes ) in beef stock till tender ; 
 
 ! strain it, and add a gill of cream, two ounces of fresh 
 butter, a table-spoonful of essence of ham, three ounces 
 of Parmasan cheese, some cayenne pepper, and a little 
 salt; mix them over the fire for five minutes, and then 
 place them in your dish; strew over it grated Parmasan, 
 brown it with a hot salamander, and serve it up. 
 
 Note .— Considerable quantities of macaroni have been 
 occasionally brought to this country; it sometimes becomes 
 spoiled by long keeping; we have known it to be employed 
 in powder instead of coarse meal for very ordinary pur¬ 
 poses ; but it is not so good as plain wheat flour. 
 
 RAMEQUINS form another of those foreign dishes 
 with which some of our epicureans are pleased. They are 
 made abroad chiefly with Parmasan or other choice cheese, 
 
 ii 3 
 
154 MADE-DISHES.—EAMEQU1NS, MOCK CRAB. 
 
 butter, eggs, and bread. In this country they are more 
 commonly made thus: take of good, sound, old, and fat 
 cheese, (the sort is not material whether it be Chedder, 
 Gloucester, or Cheshire,) and of fresh butter equal parts ; 
 the cheese must be broken or cut into small bits and then 
 boiled in the butter and a half pint of water, a little salt, 
 and a minced anchovy; to these some will add flour to 
 thicken it; others instead use crumb of bread soaked in 
 hot milk; others again will omit the w r ater and employ 
 instead the yolks of three or four eggs; the whole is how¬ 
 ever to be well beaten into a paste, to which a little bruised 
 mace must be added. Care must also be taken that the 
 paste is sufficiently stiff so as not to run ; it must then be 
 placed in little square papers pinched at the four corners, 
 and laid on a tin, and be baked of a fine yellow brown, 
 or saucers or patty-pans may be employed instead of 
 paper. 
 
 Note , a Dutch oven is very convenient for the baking 
 of this dish. Of course, if you have some good Parma- 
 san or other foreign cheese you will use it if you prefer it. 
 The French cooks direct that ramequins should be about 
 the size of a pigeon’s egg ; and in order that they may be 
 good they must be light and of a beautiful colour. 
 
 RAMEQUINS, another form for. We are indebted 
 to the lady alluded to in page 114, for the following much 
 more simple, and therefore better recipe for this dish. 
 
 Soak the crumb of a roll in three quarters of a pint of a 
 mixture, consisting of equal parts of milk and cream, 
 which must be poured on the crumb boiling hot; let it 
 stand half an hour, and then beat it fine, and add two eggs, 
 two ounces of grated Parmasan cheese, a bit of butter, 
 a little pepper and salt. Put it into small tins and bake 
 them half an hour.—Y. 
 
 MOCK CRAB. Melt carefully over a very gentle fire 
 in a small stewpan some good, old, and fat cheese, (care 
 must be taken that it is neither mouldy nor decayed,) with 
 some vinegar, mustard, pepper, and salt if required. The 
 whole of these when intimately incorporated (and in proper 
 proportions, to be determined by the judgment of the cook,) 
 form in a few minutes a very good and a very wholesome 
 succedaneum for the contents of the belly of a crab: it will 
 
MADE-DISHES.— OMELETTES. 
 
 155 
 
 be found, for a dish at the family fire-side, for supper, very 
 superior to either crab or lobster, and, of course, far less 
 expensive—a bonne bouche, which, if partaken of in mo¬ 
 deration, with a fair proportion of bread, is not very likely 
 to disturb the stomach or occasion unpleasant dreams. 
 
 TOAST AND CYDER, a Somersetshire dish. Take 
 a quart or more of good, strong, rough cyder, (that which 
 is sweet is not desirable); place it in a jug or bowl, to be¬ 
 come warm on the hearth or hob of a fire-place, taking 
 care to cover it closely while it is warming. During this 
 process toast one or more rounds of bread well on both 
 sides and lay them in a bowl, over which strew sufficient 
 sugar to make the cyder agreeably sweet; you must also 
 grate over the bread a considerable part of a nutmeg. 
 When the cyder is become hot, but not quite scalding, 
 pour it into the bowl upon the bread, sugar, and nutmeg, 
 and let them soak together closely covered till the bread is 
 completely tender. It is usually eaten served up with a 
 dish of toasted cheese; it will be found a very pleasant 
 repast for a winter’s evening. 
 
 Note, that, instead of bread, some employ biscuits that 
 are, at once, well raised by yeast and well baked. In this 
 case the biscuits are toasted on both sides, or made hot in 
 a Dutch oven and then plunged into the cyder. This is a 
 plain, simple, old English dish, and very superior to many 
 that we have borrowed from the French. It is in Somer¬ 
 setshire a very common dish on Christmas eve, 
 
 “ When the brands are burning bright. 
 
 And every heart is light.’"’ 
 
 OMELETTES of various kinds are described in page 
 79; but we may just mention here, in addition, that they 
 are sometimes made with eggs beaten together with minced 
 parsley, some shalots chopped fine, an anchovy minced, 
 and grated ham, and fried in butter. To these are some¬ 
 times added the boiled tops of asparagus, fowl, oysters, and 
 other ingredients pounded and rubbed through a sieve, 
 with the addition of cream and catchup. They are browmed 
 with a hot salamander, and served up with a little good 
 gravy or truffle sauce. 
 
156 
 
 M AD E-DIS HES.— CU R RIES. 
 
 MUSHROOM LOAVES consist of small mushrooms 
 washed as for pickling, and then boiled for a few minutes 
 in a little water, to which are added two spoonsful of 
 cream, some butter rolled in starch, salt, and pepper. 
 Fill small loaves of bread in the same manner as directed 
 for oyster loaves above, and crisp them in an oven in the 
 same way. 
 
 CURRIES are made - dishes seasoned with currie- 
 powder, (for which see our Chapter on Sauces, page 170.) 
 Some of our cookery books contain many directious for 
 various curries, as of chicken, of veal, of fish, of rabbits, 
 of fowl, &c.; but as we have already described made- 
 dishes from most of these viands, and as the addition of 
 currie-powcler constitutes the characteristic of the dish, 
 it cannot be necessary to enter here into a separate descrip¬ 
 tion of each ; besides, we believe, that few persons, except 
 an epicurean, will desire such a dish at any time; and, 
 therefore, it will be sufficient to inform the cook, from one 
 specimen, how curries are most commonly prepared. 
 
 A CURRIE OF CHICKENS. Braise * the chickens 
 cut into pieces in a stewpan, with butter and sliced onions, 
 till they become a nice brown, (some instead will fry them 
 in a frying-pan); then add some good broth, and simmer till 
 the chickens become tender. Mix now half an ounce ox- 
 more of currie-powder, with some flour or pure starch, into 
 a smooth batter, with butter and some of the liquor in your 
 stewpan: add this batter to the stewed chicken and sim¬ 
 mer the whole for about fifteen or more minutes. Season 
 with salt, to which some add cayenne or other pepper; 
 add also a little lemon-juice or the juice of tamarinds. 
 Sei - ve it up with slices of lemon. Some add the currie- 
 powder at once to the chicken and the broth and stew them 
 together, adding the other sauce afterwards. 
 
 Note .—A currie may be made with dressed as well as 
 undressed meat, fowl, &c.; if with dressed meat, par¬ 
 ticularly roasted meat, it need not be braised, but simply 
 simmered with the currie-powder, &c. 
 
 * Eor tlie meaning of this word, see forwards, under our chap¬ 
 ter on Sauces, &c. Article Rich Gravy. 
 
MADE-DISIIES.—MARINADES, QUENELLES. 157 
 
 Note also that some add cream to the currie-sauce ; and 
 that those who are fond of the stimulant properties of garlic 
 will choose that in preference to onions. 
 
 For RICE TO BE EATEN WITH CURRIE see our 
 chapter on Vegetables. 
 
 Before closing our chapter on made-dishes, it will be 
 necessary to say a word or two on some subjects, which we 
 find very commonly mentioned in French cookery, namely, 
 the marinade , godiveau, quenelles, and farce cuite. 
 
 A MARINADE may be described as a sort of pickle, 
 in which an acid or salt is commonly employed as one of 
 its ingredients; a marinade, however, consists sometimes 
 of condiments and oil. The French order a marinade thus: 
 take equal parts of vinegar and water, cut some onions in 
 slices, to which add parsley, garlic, salt, and pepper. 
 When you marinade vegetables the garlic and onion may 
 be omitted. A marinade may be also thus made: melt a 
 bit of butter in a saucepan, to which add a carrot, an onion 
 minced with sufficient pepper, salt, garlic, and hay-leaves, 
 
 ;! moistened with water or with broth, and a third part of 
 good vinegar; after proper boiling, strain it through a sieve. 
 The French marinade all sorts of meat and poultry which 
 they desire to fry.* 
 
 AN ENGLISH MARINADE. Boil gravy, vinegar, 
 salt, some whole black pepper, a few bay leaves, onions 
 sliced, a clove of garlic, and a little thyme altogether for 
 ten or more minutes, and strain off the liquor. 
 
 Note. —The gravy and vinegar may be in equal quantity. 
 
 GODIVEAU is thus made : remove from a slice of a 
 fillet of veal all its membranes, tendons, and fat, to which 
 add double its weight of beef suet also freed from its 
 membranes, &c. and as dry as possible; mince and mix 
 the whole together by adding a little water and the yolks 
 of two eggs ; beat it in a mortar with another yolk of an 
 egg and a little water ; season it at your pleasure, to which 
 add some parsley chopped fine, and poach it like quenelles. 
 See the next article. 
 
 Note. —This is neither more nor less than a forcemeat. 
 
 QUENELLES are made with poultry, game, fish, or 
 
 * Manuel de Cuisinier , par Cardelli, page 83. 
 
158 MADE-DISHES.—FORCEMEAT BALLS. 
 
 veal. Mince very fine half a pound of any of these which 
 you choose, and pass it through a quenelle sieve, to 
 which add some crumb of bread boiled in broth; pound 
 the whole together in a mortar with some butter, salt, and 
 pepper, and spices if you choose; when the mixture is 
 complete, take the yolks of two or three eggs and mix 
 them with the preceding; take the whites of the eggs and 
 beat them with a wooden spoon so that they may become 
 like snow r ; incorporate the whites with the other ingre¬ 
 dients. 
 
 This being done, warm some broth or w r ater, to which 
 add a little butter and salt; then fill a dessert or other 
 spoon, as a mould, with the forcemeat, so that each 
 quenelle may appear like an egg cut in half longitudinally. 
 When you have thus prepared as many quenelles as you 
 want, boil them in the broth for about ten minutes, and 
 they will be fit for use. 
 
 Note .—Some will make them into balls like other force¬ 
 meat ; some again will add, to make quenelles, besides 
 veal, a boiled calf’s udder. But, in fact, there is no end 
 to the fancy in making forcemeats. It is usually con¬ 
 sidered desirable in making quenelles that one should be 
 made first as a sort of proof, and be boiled in order to 
 ascertain whether they be w r ell-seasoned and of a proper 
 degree of lightness. 
 
 Their proportion ought to consist of equal parts of 
 bread and flesh, fowl, or fish as you may choose, and 
 the eggs and a little more of butter: each substance 
 ought to be beaten w'ell separately, and afterwards the 
 whole together.* 
 
 ENGLISH FORCEMEAT BALLS. We have else¬ 
 where given forms for forcemeat balls; but it may be 
 convenient to the cook to refer at once to an article for 
 them. We therefore give the following: 
 
 Beat equal parts of veal and mutton or beef suet finely 
 minced, in a marble mortar or w r ooden bowd, to which add 
 a few sweet herbs shred fine, a little pounded mace, some 
 grated nutmeg, chopped lemon peel, pepper, salt, and the 
 yolk of two eggs. Mix the whole well together; form 
 
 * Manuel de Vuismier, par Cardelli, page 8G. 
 
159 
 
 MADE-DISHES.— FARCE CUITE, &C. 
 
 some into small balls and some into long 1 rolls. Roll them 
 in flour, and fry them a nice brown. If to be used with 
 white sauce, instead of frying them plunge them into boiling 
 water, and boil them for a few minutes. 
 
 FARCE CUITE is another of those dishes for which 
 we are indebted to the French. Cut some bacon and veal, 
 from which all the skin, tendons, and ligaments have been 
 taken, into bits of the size of dice; salt and pepper them 
 iand stew them in butter; when they are done take them 
 out, and let them grow cold; mince them very fine, and 
 add some crumb of bread soaked in broth ; mix the whole 
 with the yolk of one or more eggs, to which add some 
 truffles and mushrooms chopped fine and stewed in butter. 
 
 Note .—This farce may be also made with the flesh of 
 fowl, game, or fish. 
 
 Another Farce Quite. Cut into dice the white flesh 
 of a fowl or other bird; stew it for ten minutes in some 
 butter with salt, whole pepper, and a little grated nutmeg; 
 when it is done take it out, drain it, and let it grow cold ; 
 put now some crumb of bread into the same stewpan with 
 some broth and a little parsley minced fine ; stir it with a 
 wooden spoon so as to reduce it to a panada ; when it is 
 incorporated with the broth take it from the stewpan, and 
 set it by to cool; take also a calf’s udder which has been 
 Istewed and cool, (or if not dressed you must stew it in 
 butter.) Take now the prepared fowl and pound it in a 
 mortar; when it is well beaten pass it through a quenelle 
 sieve; treat the panada in the same way, and also the 
 calf’s udder, taking care that you have equal portions of 
 these articles. Lastly, beat the whole well together ; when 
 lit has been beaten about three-fourths of an hour, add to 
 it (according to the quantity of the whole) the yolks of 
 five or more eggs; beat again the mixture well. Set it by 
 In a jar for use. 
 
 Note .—Care must be taken to add sufficient salt to keep 
 it, or it will of course spoil.* 
 
 A STUFFING FOR A ROASTED FOWL, TUR¬ 
 KEY, or RABBIT, as well as for many other dishes. 
 Take of pork sausage meat and crumb of bread equal parts, 
 
 * Cuisinier Royal, page 56. 
 
160 MADE-DISHES.—STUFFING FOE FOWLS. 
 
 one egg well beaten, some parsley finely minced, and a 
 little salt. Beat the whole well together and fill the crop 
 of the fowl or other bird with it; if a rabbit the stuffing- 
 must be put into the belly. 
 
 Note, that this is an excellent stuffing for a fowl or other 
 bird wffien it is designed to be roasted. If the bird be 
 large it will be, perhaps, necessary to employ more eggs 
 than one. 
 
 WE now make our bow — our made-dishea are done. 
 You may take which you please of our hundred-and-one. 
 But if you are willing to take our advice. 
 
 If you wish those at once that are simple and nice. 
 
 Avoid all such compounds as Florendine hares; 
 
 Nor let the squab pigeons* have aught of your cares. 
 
 You may take a quenelle, as bonne bouche, if you please. 
 But be sure toast arid cyder and good toasted cheese, 
 
 Or mock crab is better than any of these. 
 
 Avoid, too, the dishes yclept macaroni, 
 
 Although they be prais’d by an epicure crony. 
 
 But a. goose, dress’d as we have directed above. 
 
 You will find a good dish—and we swear it by Jove ' 
 
 * Pigeons d la Monarque . 
 
161 
 
 CHAPTER IX. 
 
 [SAUCES, GRAVIES, AND OTHER COMPOUND CON¬ 
 DIMENTS ; A CATALOGUE ALSO OF SIMPLE 
 CONDIMENTS USED IN COOKERY OR WITH 
 FOOD. 
 
 Again we lift our voice ; beware. 
 However racy, rich, or rare. 
 
 Of compound condiments : for those 
 Are good digestion’s greatest foes. 
 
 You may with safety call cayenne 
 A friend to Jish ; and now and then 
 Horse radish will its aid impart 
 To impel the blood and cheer the heart:— 
 Our native smallage* also one 
 Whose seeds are second unto none \ 
 
 Rut such, the spices t all require 
 Appliance of the gentlest fire. 
 
 Or off their virtues fast will fly 
 And all your cooking art defy. 
 
 You may too, haply, some good wine 
 With simple sauces well combine ; 
 
 But if you much the mixture boil 
 Assuredly the sauce you spoil. 
 
 Of flour, again we say, beware,£ 
 
 Of eggs, again too, have a care ; 
 
 Simplicity he your regard, 
 
 And she will amply you reward. 
 
 I * Smallage, or apium gvaveolens , is a very common plant 
 rowing in many moist places in this country. When cultivated 
 becomes the celery of our gardens ; it has been suspected that 
 ie roots and leaves of wild smallage are poisonous : they are 
 sver, that we know of, eaten ; nor do w r e recommend them as a 
 indiment: but this we do know, and therefore speak confidently 
 i the subject, that the seeds of smallage are more pungent 
 an those of celery, and may be usefully employed to flavour 
 mps, &c. 
 
 t By spices here are meant nutmegs, mace, cinnamon, cloves, 
 ssia, and cassia-buds, to which may be added allspice : the virtues 
 all these reside chiefly in an essential oil that is readily dissipated 
 J heat. The pungent aroma of horse-radish is also soon dissi- 
 ited by the same agent. 
 
 f It affords us very great pleasure to find that our Gallican 
 ighbours begin to appreciate in their cookery that knowledge 
 
162 
 
 SAUCES AND GRAVIES. 
 
 General Observations. We have little to add to 
 what we have said in the preceding lines but this, that 
 although we are not disposed to bow implicitly to our 
 neighbours the French in their exercise of the art of 
 cookery, we are, nevertheless, quite willing to admit that 
 some of their forms deserve imitation ; none more perhaps 
 than those in which condiments are reduced to essences, 
 that become, on numerous occasions, at once useful and 
 agreeable: we, therefore, without hesitation take the op¬ 
 portunity of enriching our pages with a few recipes new, 
 we believe, to the English public.* 
 
 We have given various directions for sauces, &c. in 
 several parts of our work ; but we deem it expedient to 
 arrange under one head many which could not, with pro¬ 
 priety, be placed anywhere else ; this arrangement will be 
 found, besides, of great convenience to the practical cook. 
 
 Forcemeat Balls and similar compound condiments 
 ■will be found at the conclusion of the last chapter, to 
 which the reader will be good enough to refer. 
 
 The French arrange sauces under two heads, namely, 
 Grandes et Petites; but we see no necessity for such 
 divisions. The principal qualities of sauces should consist 
 in that which excites the action, more or less lively, of the 
 nervous papillae of the tongue, of the palate, and of all 
 which constitutes the organ of taste; but principally of 
 the maxillary glands. When they are too mild they 
 produce no sensation, their object is lost; when they are 
 too sharp they burn or excite the mouth too much, instead 
 
 of natural bodies which chemistry and accurate observation 
 supply ; and it is infinitely satisfactory to us to find in the work 
 of M. Cardelli, “ Manuel de Cuisinier,” page 59, the following, 
 which is in accordance with the directions that we have 
 again and again given in this work :—“ Nous ne donnons ici 
 que les principles, et dans toutes, celles ou nous recommandons 
 d’ajouter de la farine, nous devons avertir qu’il est bien preferable 
 de ne se servir que de la fecule de ponune de terre; par ce moyen, 
 on fait des sauces beaucoup plus consistante et qu’il meme inutile 
 de faire reduire ” The ingenious author might have added that 
 potatoe starch in sauces is much more likely to suit the human 
 stomach than iclieat flour ; a consideration of the last importance 
 in the art of cookery. 
 
 * We retain the l-'rench names in order that credit may be given 
 where it is due ; Manuel de Cuisinier, par Cardelli, page 62. 
 
I 
 
 SAUCES AND GRAVIES. 163 
 
 ; of producing an agreeable sapidity. How many alimentary 
 substances have merit only by the sauce with which they are 
 accompanied or prepared ? * 
 
 As an instance of the truth of the preceding observations 
 we may mention common salt, a sauce or condiment of 
 the most useful, yet of the most common kind. Let an 
 excellent broth or soup, or a slice of exquisite roasted 
 meat, be taken into the mouth, and if it be not seasoned, 
 as we say, that is, has not the salt calculated to produce 
 the proper excitement of the organs of taste, we cannot 
 like, we do not relish the food. Salt, therefore, from its 
 universal use, appears essential to us as a condiment. 
 Other condiments may also, by use, become necessary 
 to the particular relish of a dish; care, however, ought to 
 be taken in the introduction of condiments, sauces, &c. 
 that they are neither unwholesome, nor expensive, at least 
 to those who can ill afford to pay for them. Fortunately 
 for mankind the best condiments are least expensive, of 
 which salt is one. 
 
 ESSENCE D’ASSORTIMENT. Put into an earthern 
 pipkin half a bottle of white wine, half a glass of vinegar, 
 the juice of tw r o lemons, three ounces of salt, half an 
 ounce of whole pepper, a little nutmeg and mace, four 
 cloves, and as many bay leaves, a little thyme, a bunch of 
 parsley, a little clove of garlic, ten shalots peeled, and 
 one ounce of small dried mushrooms. Set the pipkin on 
 the fire, and when it is ready to boil slacken the fire and 
 let the pipkin remain upon the hot cinders during six or 
 seven hours. Strain the liquor through a sieve, and, if 
 need be, filter it and keep it in a vessel well stopped. It 
 may be used in small quantities for a variety of purposes. 
 
 Note. —The above are the directions given in the work 
 referred to ; but the English cook wall find a water bath 
 much better suited to the operation than an open fire, as 
 the heat can be better regulated. Care should also be 
 taken to keep the vessel well closed during the process, 
 or all the spirit of the wine will escape. With the 
 addition of anchovies (without their bones) and walnut 
 catchup or soy this essence will be a good Quin sauce. 
 It may also supply the place of the Sauce Superlative 
 
 * Manuel de Cuisinier , par Cavdelli, page 58. 
 
164 
 
 SAUCES AND GRAVIES. 
 
 of many of our cotemporaries. It is advisable, although 
 not so directed in the original, to mince the shalots, the 
 garlic, and dried mushrooms, as their virtues will be thus 
 more readily extracted. 
 
 ESSENCE D’AIL, or ESSENCE OF GARLIC, 
 is made in the same manner as the preceding ; but the 
 quantity of garlic must be six cloves, and the same 
 number of the spice called cloves, the fourth part of a 
 nutmeg and two bay leaves for a bottle of w'ine. 
 
 ESSENCE DE GIBIER. Pursue the same methods 
 as the preceding with the remains of all sorts of game, such 
 as hares, rabbits, partridges, venison, &c. 
 
 ESSENCE DE VOLAILLE.* Pound in a mortar 
 the remains of dressed poultry, whether roasted or other¬ 
 wise ; put them into a stewpan to w r hich add an onion, a 
 carrot, and a bunch of parsley; moisten the whole with 
 some broth or water, season it to your taste, and stew it 
 over a slow fire ; strain it when done through a silk sieve. 
 
 BECHAMEL. Reduce over a good fire some sauct 
 tournee, (see Veloute oil Sauce tournee, forwards) moistened 
 with essence de volatile or consomme, stir it continualh 
 that it may not attach itself to the saucepan; when it is 
 reduced to a proper consistence, add to it two glasses of 
 boiling cream, and omit not for a moment to keep the mix¬ 
 ture moving. Strain through a hair sieve and serve 
 it up.f 
 
 Note.—Bechamel or white gravy is employed upoi 
 many occasions and is made in other ways besides tin 
 above; the following is an old fashioned method: cut int< 
 pieces white veal, lean ham, turnips, celery, onions, t< 
 which add a blade of mace, a little whole white pepper, ant 
 other condiments that you may choose, and some good vea 
 or mutton broth ; boil it for some time, and add a little flou 
 and butter; skim it during the boiling 1 , and add crean 
 enough to make it white, strain it off; it ought to be abou 
 the thickness of light batter. 
 
 BEURRE D’ANCHOIS; or, Butter of Anciio 
 
 * Volatile in the French language usually implies domesti 
 poultry; but it is sometimes used in a more extended sense; it | 
 etymology woul designate all birds. 
 
 t Manuel de Cuisinier, par Cardelli, page 59. 
 
SAUCES AND GRAVIES. — MELTED BUTTER. 165 
 
 vies. Wash well some anchovies, remove the flesh from 
 ;he bones, dry it, mince it, and then pound it in a mortar; 
 ivhen it is reduced to a paste mix it with double its weight 
 if fresh butter. 
 
 BEURRE AUX FINES HERBES; or Butter with 
 Aromatic Herbs; take whatever herbs you please and 
 flanch them, then mince them and mix them with good 
 resh butter. 
 
 BEURRE DE PIMENT is made by mixing - fresh 
 •utter with a sufficient quantity of allspice in powder. 
 
 BEURRE NOIR; or, Black Butter. Melt in a 
 rying pan half a pound of butter till it becomes almost 
 lack, taking care that it does not inflame. Put into a stew- 
 an half a glass of vineg-ar, some salt and pepper; boil 
 hese up and strain them hot into the butter to be used as 
 pcasion offers. 
 
 Rote .—Some add a variety of herbs and spice to this 
 pndiment; and some direct the butter to remain by the 
 re not over it, till it becomes coloured. We have nothing 
 hatever to say in commendation of this sauce. 
 
 MELTED BUTTER. We suppose that every cook 
 links she knows how to melt butter for the table: but, 
 evertheless, it is our duty to say, that the practice of melt- 
 lg it with wheat flour to thicken it is invariably bad, and 
 iould, therefore, be invariably avoided. Pure starch, 
 ther from potatoes or other sources, should be always 
 nployed. We have insisted upon this in many other 
 irts of our work, and, therefore, we have less occasion to 
 jate it here; we may, however, mention that in combin- 
 ig starch or flour with water or milk, a medium to thicken 
 elted butter, care must be taken that neither is in too great 
 lantitv: for, if the starch predominate, the mixture will 
 ; a mucilage, and not what it ought to be, melted-butter ; 
 id it will be, besides, so thick as to be extremely inconve- 
 ient to be poured out. The chief error in the melted 
 itter usually seen at our tables is in the too great quantity 
 flour or sta/ei' u:' by far too small a quantity of butter 
 the mixture, if fact, as the addition of either flour or 
 arch to butter is merely to disguise the butter so that it 
 ay not appear as an oil, a very small quantity of flour or 
 irch will be found sufficient for this purpose. Our 
 
166 
 
 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 
 
 English tastes carry, perhaps, our repugnance to tire ap¬ 
 pearance of butter as oil somewhat too far: if butter be 
 melted alone in a very gentle heat, we have surely a 
 greater probability that w r e shall have its delicacy of taste 
 in greater perfection than when it is combined, as it usually 
 is, with flour or starch and milk or water. Yet, provided 
 the butter be melted by a very gentle heat, w r e see no real 
 reason why it might not be brought to table thus liquefied. 
 Of course the application of a great heat will alter its pro¬ 
 perties and render it little better than, if so good as, the 
 other animal oils. Care should also be taken that the 
 butter is fresh and of a pleasant taste. To avoid boiling 
 the butter in melting it, the best way will be to dissolve, 
 first, by gentle boiling, the proper quantity of starch or 
 flour in the milk or water, and then add a sufficient quantity 
 of butter cut into small pieces, to the mixture; a very slight 
 heat will then be necessary to form the melted butter as it 
 ought to be brought to the table. The cook is too often in 
 a hurry with this article, and often, therefore, spoils it. 
 
 BLANC. Take half a pound of beef suet, the same 
 quantity of the fat of bacon, a quarter of a pound of butter, 
 two carrots, two onions cut in half, a bunch of sweet herbs,* 
 a bay leaf, the juice of a lemon, salt, some whole pepper, 
 and a quarter of a pint of broth ; boil the whole together 
 for some time and then strain it off. Set it by to be used 
 for dressing the meat which you wish. 
 
 ROUX. Put some butter into a stewpan; when it is 
 melted add to it a proportionate quantity of flour or rather 
 pure starch ; when it begins to boil slacken the fire and 
 keep it gentle for about three hours, stirring the mixture 
 often, when it becomes of a beautiful blond f colour, take 
 it out of the stewpan, and set it by to be used as you 
 want it. 
 
 Note .—This may be employed for thickening many 
 sauces, &c. 
 
 ROUX BLANC is made in the same manner as the 
 
 * In the original (Manuel de Cuisinier, par Cavdelli, page 60,) 
 un bouquet aromatique. We mention this to show the imaginative 
 style of writing of our neighbours : un bouquet aromatique, how 
 superior to our plain, bunch of sweet herbs ! 
 
 t Blond, a bright, light, reddish brown. 
 
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. — CULLIS. 167 
 
 preceding, taking care to employ less heat in order that it 
 may be quite white. 
 
 Note.-— Le Cuisinier Royal, par M. M. Viard and 
 Fouret, directs wheat flour to be employed in preference; 
 on this we have to observe that it is very possible boiling 
 wheat flour in butter for two or three hours may render 
 it more suitable for the human stomach; but boiling but¬ 
 ter for so long a period is not a process which we can 
 recommend: therefore, we neither recommend roux nor 
 roux blanc to our cooks ; such sauces, or thickening for 
 sauces, are additions to dyspepsia. 
 
 COULIS, CULLIS, or Thick Gravy. Put into a 
 stewpan a sufficient quantity of roux as above described; 
 when it is hot moisten it with some good broth or beef- 
 stock, stirring it with a wooden spoon; boil it gently during 
 an hour at least, taking off the scum and then adding a 
 bunch of parsley. Strain it through a hair sieve and take 
 off the fat, set it by in an earthen pan; a thin skin will be 
 formed upon the surface which must be taken off. Use the 
 coulis as you want it. 
 
 I Note. —This is a French method. * 
 
 Cullis is made in various ways besides the preceding-; 
 and sometimes spices, herbs, onions, and other condiments 
 ire added to it. The following is an old fashioned 
 
 FAMILY CULLIS. Stir a piece of butter rolled in 
 lour, or rather pure starch, in a stewpan, till the flour is of 
 i fine yellow, then add some broth, a little gravy, a glass 
 )f white wine, a bunch of parsley, some thyme, a bay-leaf, 
 some sweet basil, two cloves, some nutmeg, a few mushrooms, 
 oepper, and salt; stew it for an hour over a slow fire; 
 skim all the fat off and strain it through a lawn sieve. 
 
 A CULLIS FOR RAGOUTS is also made by stewing 
 lirectly, veal, ham, carrots, &c. and a variety of condiments 
 vith broth or gravy. 
 
 A CULLIS FOR FISH and other dishes is made 
 rom the flesh of a broiled pike skinned and separated from 
 he bones ; to which are added the yolks of hard boiled 
 ggs, a few blanched almonds, all beaten together into a 
 aste in a mortar. Take now onions, parsnips, and carrots, 
 
 * Manuel de Cuisinier, page 62. 
 
168 
 
 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 
 
 sliced ; and stew them a few minutes, in butter, adding t 
 them a little broth. Strain the liquid into another sauct 
 pan, and add a leek, some parsley, sweet basil, some cloves 
 mushrooms, truffles, and a few crumbs of bread ; stew thes 
 gently for fifteen minutes and add the prepared paste ; ste’ 
 the whole some time longer, but it must not boil. Strai 
 through a hair sieve. 
 
 Note .—That this is a troublesome and unnecessary prc 
 cess ; besides, other fish will answer the purpose quite f 
 well as pike; a very little ingenuity of the cook w T ill invei 
 a simpler and better dish. The eggs may be advantag< 
 ously omitted, and pure starch added in their place. 
 
 A SIMPLE CULLIS may be made at any time l 
 boiling some pure starch in good gravy for a few minute 
 and if you choose to add some condiments you may ; tl 
 cook will thus be saved an abundance of trouble, and tl 
 dishes to which the cullis is appended or mixed be miu 
 more wholesome. 
 
 BEEF GPtAVY. Cut the flesh of a neck of beef 
 other lean part into small pieces : stew it in as much wat 
 as will cover it, with an onion, pepper, salt, and what oth 
 condiments you may choose till the gravy is rich ai 
 good; you may add, if you desire to colour it, sor 
 crusts of bread toasted brown. Some will mix flour wi 
 the meat before the process begins ; this is very injudicioi 
 after it is completed some pure starch, if you please, may 
 added to thicken it. Let it be strained off. 
 
 A RICH GRAVY for various purposes. Take eqi 
 parts of lean beef, veal, and mutton; cut them into sm 
 pieces, to which add a slice of lean bacon or ham, sor 
 slices of a carrot, mace, cloves, some whole pepper, a lap 
 onion sliced, and some sweet herbs. Braise* them in 
 stewpan, covered close, over a slow fire for six or eq 
 minutes, frequently shaking’ them. Pour over the mixti 
 boiling water more than sufficient to cover it, and let 1 
 
 * This verb, to braise, is not to be found in our Dictionari 
 it is from braise, French, live coals, and implies the placing 
 food in a stewpan over a fire without any liquid to moderate 
 heat; the articles subjected to braising become, of course, m 
 or less browned by such application of the heat. 
 
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 
 
 169 
 
 whole stew till the gravy is very good ; take off the fat if any 
 appear; season with salt and strain it off. 
 
 Note .—Some thicken this gravy with flour or pure starch, 
 but w’e see no necessity for the addition of either. 
 
 A BROWN GRAVY maybe made in various ways; 
 but if it be coloured by an article which will rather 
 injure than improve its quality, it must be bad. We agree 
 with Dr. Kitchener that “ meat cut into thin slices, 
 broiled till it is brown and then stewed,” makes one of the 
 best and certainly the most wholesome of the brown sauces. 
 
 GLAZE is employed for producing a shining appearance 
 over some dishes after they are dressed ; it is, in fact, little 
 j more than an animal jelly, prepared with somewhat less care 
 ,4 than the jellies which are designed to be served up with 
 h elegance, and under different names. Glaze may be 
 ^obtained from beef, veal, or mutton, as well as from 
 i C jpoultry, game, &c,; it is most commonly made from the 
 i remains of meat, poultry, and game, whether boiled or 
 jroasted. The following is considered a good method of 
 ^making it. Make a good soup by stewing the remains of 
 .j^meat or poultry or both in water, and strain it through a 
 ^sieve; set it again upon the fire, and add to it the whites of 
 011 jtwo or three eggs beaten up like snow ; stir the mixture 
 dll it boils and then set the stewpan upon the corner of the 
 tove, putting some fire on the cover of it; after a few mi¬ 
 nutes, when the eggs are set, strain the liquor through a 
 noistened cloth. Boil it down over a good fire, taking care 
 0 stir it with a wooden spoon to prevent its sticking to the 
 tewpan. Your glaze being made, pour it into a pot for use. 
 Then you want to use it put a little of it into a saucepan 
 nd set it over a gentle fire ; when it is hot, it must be ap- 
 lied lightly over the dishes which you desire to glaze with 
 feather.* 
 
 Note .—That glaze may be made of the liquor in which 
 esh meat (such as a leg of mutton) has been boiled by 
 /■aporating the water and thus i-educing- it to a proper con- 
 stence. Some will add a variety of herbs, condiments, 
 ursad roots, such as carrots, celery, &c. &c. but surely these 
 
 The whites of eggs are 
 
 son! 
 lit 
 1 in 
 1 ei 
 fixtn 
 let 
 
 .acing 
 erate 
 St) ® 1 
 
 e useless, not to say improper, 
 isigned to clarify the glaze. 
 
 * Manuel de Cuisinier, par Cardelli, page 64 . 
 
170 
 
 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 
 
 CURRIE POWDER, when genuine, is imported from 
 the East Indies; hut the cupidity of trade has produced in¬ 
 numerable imitations of the Indian article. We have exa¬ 
 mined a great many recipes for this compound condiment, 
 in most of which turmeric root and cayenne pepper enter; 
 the last is not, we believe, in genuine East Indian currie 
 powder; the first appears to be a constant ingredient; but, 
 except for imparting a yellow colour, we do not know its 
 further use ; its taste is sickening and disagreeable. Almost 
 every modern English Cookery Book has, therefore, its 
 peculiar currie powder : it is not our intention to add to the 
 number. Dr. Kitchener says, that the following “ ap¬ 
 proximates to the Indian powder so exactly that it has 
 been pronounced a perfect copy of the original.” 
 
 “ Take coriander seeds and turmeric-root each three 
 ounces ; black pepper, mustard-seeds, and ginger-root, of 
 each one ounce; allspice and lesser cardamom seeds, of 
 each half an ounce ; cummin seeds a quarter of an ounce. 
 Let the whole be finely pulverized and then kept in a bottle 
 well stopped.”* 
 
 We may just add that, besides the ingredients above- 
 mentioned, some employ grains of paradise instead of the 
 lesser cardamoms, a cheaper and, perhaps, equally useful 
 stimulant. Others again will have in it mace, cinnamon, 
 nutmegs, and cloves ; and others the essential oils of the 
 three last instead of the spices themselves ; the oils must 
 be added to the other ingredients after they are pow¬ 
 dered. Others again have in it black tamarinds; others 
 have a considerable proportion of rice ; and some will havt 
 in it the nauseating seeds of fenugreek. One only wonder; 
 that, as assafoetida is employed by the Persians as a condi 
 ment, it has not been added, by some of our epicures, ii 
 the place of garlic to their curries !+ The French appea 
 to consider turmeric , allspice, rhubarb, and nutmegX a 
 
 * Cook’s Oracle, p. 359. 
 
 t One of our council of cooks informs us that many years sine 
 she gave a splendid entertainment ; among the dishes served u 
 was an Indian currie, the disagreeable smell of which pervaded th 
 whole house and very much annoyed her guests—it was produce 
 by the garlic used in it; notwithstanding this, many of the pari 
 partook of the dish, a rabbit: such is the potency of fashion ! 
 
 f Cuisinier Royal, pp. 48, 72, 128. 
 
GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 
 
 171 
 
 the only necessary ingredients for currie-sauce besides salt. 
 But they do not seem partial to curries. Mrs. Dodds re¬ 
 commends “ one teaspoonful of white ginger, two of cori¬ 
 ander-seeds, half a one of turmeric-root, and a quarter 
 _°f a one of cayenne-pepper,” all in powder: this 
 is one of the simplest and perhaps the best of currie 
 powders. Mrs. Glasse has only a quarter of an ounce of 
 turmeric-root, and a large spoonful of ginger and pepper, 
 all beaten together. We may further add, that all the in¬ 
 gredients for currie-powder should be purchased whole, and 
 be reduced to powder by the cook, or the chances are* that 
 most of them will be more or less spurious—turmeric, in 
 particular, is very subject to an adulteration when sold in 
 powder, which is not readily detected by the inexperienced. 
 
 Of currie-powder we have only to say that we cannot 
 recommend even the best; the reader must, therefore, 
 judge of this condiment for himself. 
 
 For the application of curi'ie-powder to several dishes see 
 e Curries, page 156. 
 
 ESSENCE Oh HAM. This condiment may be ob¬ 
 tained from an undressed ham or from a ham which has 
 been boiled; the first will give the most perfect essence of 
 the meat; the last may be the most economical. Take one 
 pound of the undressed lean of a ham, (of course it ought 
 
 to be of a good flavour,) cut it into small pieces and put it 
 iSl into a stewpan with sufficient water to cover it; let it sirn- 
 '■imer till it is about three parts done, then add to it one pint 
 ri of boiling water, and boil it till it is tender; strain it 
 iTi through a sieve and take off all the fat; then boil it till it 
 ® >s reduced to about a quarter of a pint, and when cold put 
 ‘“ft into a bottle for use. 
 
 Note .—There is no necessity for any additional condi- 
 ea nent, in the preparation of this essence ; some will never- 
 J Iheless add to it shalots and bay leaves ; others are yet 
 •nore liberal in their additions, ordering not only carrots, 
 ;iK >arsnips, and onions, but veal gravy, mushrooms, truffles,' 
 i tiorels, cloves, parsley, basil, &c. &c. ; a most injudicious 
 ‘Jfompound ! 
 
 I HAM SAUCE. Mince first and then beat into a pulp 
 fterwards the lean part of a dressed ham ; stew it over a 
 
 low fire in 
 
 good gravy 
 
 sufficient to cover 
 
 it for half an 
 
 i 2 
 
172 
 
 GRAVIES AND SAUCES. 
 
 hour; then add some sweet herbs, pepper, and some beef 
 gravy for half an hour more. Let it be covered close during 
 its stewing: when done, if there be any fat on it let it be 
 taken oft’; strain the sauce through a hair sieve. 
 
 Note .—Care must be taken in stewing the ham that it 
 is stirred often, or it will stick to the bottom of' the stewpan 
 and become burnt: a water bath is a more tedious but a 
 more certain method of moderating the heat in the prepara¬ 
 tion of this sauce.—If the lean remains of a boiled ham 
 should be quite good, they may be economically converted 
 into this sauce. 
 
 EGG SAUCE. Chop eggs, boiled five or more minutes, 
 moderately fine, and mix them with melted butter: make 
 the sauce hot and then serve it up. 
 
 SAUCES FOR A HARE. Half a pint of cream and 
 half a pound of fresh butter melted together in a gentle heat. 
 
 Thicken some good gravy with a bit of butter rolled in 
 flour, or starch, by a gentle heat. 
 
 Currant jelly warmed and served up in a boat, or in 
 lumps cold on the edge of the dish. 
 
 Red wine and sugar thus prepared: half a pint of the 
 wine and a quarter of a pound of sugar simmered together 
 in a covered saucepan for a quarter of an hour. 
 
 See also hare roasted, jugged, &c. 
 
 ONION SAUCE is prepared many ways: like melted 
 butter, most cooks have a method of making onion sauce 
 of their own ; it is our duty, however, to advert to principles 
 in the preparation of this sauce. Every body is aware that 
 the pungency of onions, leeks, garlic, and others of the 
 same genus of plants, arises from a volatile essence which 
 is dissipated by even a moderate heat and more especially 
 by long boiling in water. Again, almost every one is aware 
 that onions in their raw state may be eaten by many per 
 sons with impunity, nay with advantage, while to others 
 they are extremely offensive, and produce when eaten con¬ 
 siderable disturbance of the digestive functions. In pre¬ 
 paring onions, therefore, for sauce as well as to be other¬ 
 wise eaten, it will be necessary for the cook to know th( 
 taste and wishes of the master and mistress of a family 
 before she can know how to prepare onion sauce that may 
 be agreeable to them. ' 
 
ONION SAUCE. 
 
 173 
 
 I 
 
 1 
 
 a! 
 
 n 
 
 le 
 
 er 
 
 jd 
 
 ce 
 
 is 
 
 it 
 
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 "I 
 
 an i 
 
 er 1 
 
 et 
 
 m 
 
 ire 
 
 ret 
 
 ti 
 
 al 
 
 iJ 
 
 If the onion sauce be desired to contain a strong and 
 pungent taste of the onion, the onions may be boiled in 
 water, after being- peeled and quartered, till they are tender, 
 then chopped fine upon a clean chopping- board, and be re¬ 
 turned ag-ain to the saucepan and water, to which may be 
 added some butter and a little flour or pure starch, and sim¬ 
 mered for ten or fifteen minutes, the whole being thus, and 
 also by beating with a wooden spoon, reduced to a smooth 
 pulp. Some will prefer passing it through a coarse hair 
 sieve or colander : some too will add cream to it. It must 
 he seasoned with salt of course. 
 
 If, however, you desire a more mild onion sauce, you 
 must boil the onions for some time in two or three different 
 waters, throw-ing all the waters away, and when the onions 
 are tender, they must be chopped as directed above, passed 
 through a coarse hair sieve or colander, and then be mixed 
 with sufficient butter and pure stai-ch to render it, being- 
 seasoned with salt, at once smooth, elegant, and mild. The 
 cook will, in general, find this last method the best: for 
 such sauce will be more agreeable to most persons than the 
 strong one made according to our first directions. If you 
 like the expense of cream it may be added to it; but 
 cream , be assured, will not add to the wholesomeness of your 
 sauce. 
 
 Note .—The most delicate sauce is made from the rvhitest 
 onions; some lay them in salt and water after peeling and 
 quartering them for twenty or more minutes ; but there is 
 no necessity for this previous marinade. 
 
 Some, in order to have the onion sauce whiter, will boil 
 the onions in milk and water instead of plain water; but 
 what necessity can there be for such art ? 
 
 A BROWN ONION SAUCE maybe made by braising 
 finely sliced onions with a small quantity of butter in a 
 stewpan till they become brown ; add next some good broth 
 and stew the onions in it twenty or more minutes ; to this 
 you must add some pepper, salt, and flour or starch to 
 make the whole of a proper consistence; strain it through 
 a coarse sieve. 
 
 Note .—You will here have a much more pungent onion 
 sauce than either of the preceding; some" will add to it 
 
 t- 
 
174 SAUCES. 
 
 celery, and claret or other wine, and lemon juice or vinegar; 
 but these additaments are not necessary. 
 
 SHALOT SAUCE may be made in a similar way to 
 onion sauce; but it is usually made much more expeditious¬ 
 ly, and simply thus : stew five or six shalots, chopped fine, 
 in four ounces of gravy, a spoonful of vinegar, and a little 
 pepper and salt, for a few minutes ; some say only one 
 minute, but this will be found too short a period to impart 
 the taste of the shalot to the liquids. Some add lemon- 
 peel to this sauce. 
 
 GARLIC SAUCE may be made in a similar manner to 
 that of shalot sauce; but the Essence of Garlic, see page 
 164, is a more elegant preparation, and may be mixed with 
 melted butter for a sauce at pleasure. 
 
 MINT SAUCE. Chop some green leaves of spear 
 mint very fine, to which add vinegar and sugar; some will 
 have vinegar only. 
 
 CAPER SAUCE. Add your capers which you design 
 for sauce to melted butter, made with butter and pure 
 starch, as directed in page 165 ; it is usual to mince some of 
 them small , and to cut others only in two ; some will also 
 add a few whole ones ; the whole should be made tho¬ 
 roughly hot, but not boiled in the melted butter. Note. — 
 Some will add parsley and bread to this sauce ; but both 
 are unnecessary. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY SAUCE. Stew green gooseberries, 
 freed from their tops and tails, in water till they are tender ; 
 strain off the water and beat them into a pulp with a 
 spoon ; add now either melted butter or some sugar, or 
 both; but some serve it up with only butter or sugar; and 
 some will add grated lemon-peel and a little ginger ; others 
 mix in a little juice of sorrel; but the mashed gooseberries 
 with a little sugar are generally preferred. 
 
 APPLE SAUCE. Stew good boiling apples, pared, 
 cored, and sliced, in a little water; cover the apples during 
 the process with the parings ; when they are nearly done 
 you may put in, if you please, a bit of lemon-peel and a 
 little grated ginger : the last will give the sauce a very 
 agreeable flavour. When they are quite tender beat them 
 into a pulp. Some add to this butter and sugar, but 
 neither is necessary. 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 175 
 
 BREAD SAUCE. Soak some crumbs of bread in 
 milk ; when the bread lias absorbed as much milk as it will 
 take, put it into a stewpan with an onion quartered, a 
 little mace or allspice, and a few peppercorns tied in a cloth. 
 Boil them for a few minutes so as to scald the bread ; take 
 out the onions, &c. and beat the bread into a pulp, to 
 which add a little butter and salt; simmer the whole toge¬ 
 ther. 
 
 Note. —Instead of milk some use water; others will add 
 to it cream or some good broth. This sauce is used with 
 game, poultry, and roast pork. 
 
 BREAD CRUMBS BRAISED. Braise stale bread 
 crumbs, previously reduced very small by being grated, or 
 otherwise made into a coarse powder, with a small quantity 
 of butter, and keep them moving about till they become of 
 a yellowish brown. 
 
 Note. —These are sometimes called fried bread crmnbs; 
 they are served up with such dishes as turkies, pheasants, 
 partridges, grouse, &c. as also with roasted sweetbreads. 
 
 SAUCE PIQUANTE is made several ways; the fol¬ 
 lowing is an old fashioned method, and we believe one of 
 i the best. Stew two slices of ham, a clove of garlic, a bay 
 leaf, and two sliced onions, a little broth, two spoonfuls of 
 the Family Cullis, page 167, and one of tarragon or chili 
 vinegar, for an hour over a slow fire; strain it through a 
 sieve, and pour it into your sauce boat. 
 
 SAUCE PIQUANTE A LA FRANCOISES Mix 
 together a glass of broth and a glass of white wine ; boil 
 them half away, and add some parsley, shalots, and other 
 condiments which you like; season it, and boil for a few 
 minutes; at the instant of serving it up add the juice of a 
 lemon and a little oil. 
 
 WHITE SAUCE.f Mix -well together a little butter 
 1 and flour or starch; add salt and water in sufficient quan- 
 | tity; place it over a gentle fire in a saucepan, shaking it 
 I constantly; when it has attained a proper consistence add 
 the juice of a lemon, some vinegar, and a little nutmeg. 
 
 Note .—Some will add pepper and other condiments to 
 
 * Manual de Cuisinier , p. 71. 
 t Ibid. p. 07 . 
 
176 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 this sauce; and some of our English cookery-books order 
 crumb of bread, some good meat broth instead of water, 
 with white wine, the yolks of eggs, cream, mushrooms, 
 &c.: others, again, make a white sauce with a scrag of 
 veal and the necks of fowls, or bits of mutton or veal 
 boiled in water, with a variety of condiments, such as 
 celery, lemon, and sweet herbs; butter rolled in flour is 
 then added to thicken it; pickled mushrooms, the yolks of 
 eggs, and cream and a little nutmeg. A pretty considera¬ 
 ble dose of indigestible materials. 
 
 TOMATO SAUCE A LA BOURGEOISE.* Cut 
 
 ten or twelve tomatos (they are commonly called love apples 
 in this country) into quarters; put them into a stewpan 
 with four or flve onions cut into slices, a pinch of parsley, 
 a little thyme, a clove, and a quarter of a pound of butter ; 
 boil the whole together, taking care that it does not stick 
 to the stewpan, for three-quarters of an hour ; strain your 
 sauce through a hair sieve ; take care that it is properly 
 seasoned with salt. 
 
 Note, that this sauce is good with meat, fish, and 
 vegetables. 
 
 SAUCE TOMATE A LTTALIENNE.f Cut five or 
 six onions into pieces and put them into a stewpan with a 
 little thyme, a bay leaf, and twelve or fifteen love apples; 
 take also some good broth, or a large piece of butter, salt, 
 a little allspice, and a small quantity of powdered turmeric 
 root. % Set the whole over the fire, taking care to stir it 
 from time to time that it may not stick to the stewpan. 
 When you see that it becomes a little thick strain it off ; 
 but do not let it be too clear. 
 
 Note. —We obey the directions in the original French; 
 but surely the love apples ought to be quartered or other¬ 
 wise cut into pieces before being stewed. The turmeric 
 being added to it would seem to make it a sort of currie .— 
 See Currie Powder, page 170. 
 
 * Cuisinier Royal , par MM. Viard et Fouret, p. 45. 
 
 -f- Ibid. p. 44 
 
 | In the original “ un peu de poudre de safran d’lnde ou terra- 
 merita.” This has been translated by a cotemporary, “ a little 
 India saffron.” Does any mere Englishman know that by India 
 saffron is meant tarmeric root, called sometimes on the continent 
 very erroneously, terra-merita ? 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 177 
 
 TOMATO SAUCE. Another way* Cut six love 
 apples in half and press out the water which they 
 contain; put them into a sufficient quantity of sauce tournee 
 (see the next article), to which add the fourth of an onion, 
 a bunch of parsley, and a small quantity (a spoonful) of 
 vinegar; boil the whole well together; strain it; take off 
 the fat, and reduce it to a proper consistence. 
 
 Note .—Some bake the love apples, and when they are 
 quite soft take out the pulp and mix it with vinegar and 
 other condiments. 
 
 VELOUTE OU SAUCE TOURNEE.f Mince very 
 fine many mushrooms, some parsley and shalots ; braise 
 them in a stewpan with a little butter, to which add a 
 little flour, and moisten with some good broth or a glass 
 of white wine; let it boil slowly, and carefully remove 
 the fat. 
 
 Note .—This sauce is sometimes made with lean ham, 
 and other animal substances, instead of using good broth ; 
 veal or beef-steak may be also employed. The condiments 
 maybe as above, or what other you may choose. 
 
 SWEET SAUCES may be made in several ways. 
 One is by simply warming currant jelly, so that it may 
 become liquid, and sending it up to table in a boat; to this 
 some will add a glass of port wine. Another is made by 
 dissolving some sugar in warm water, adding to the mix¬ 
 ture some white or red wine, and grated nutmeg, or finely 
 powdered cinnamon; the whole must be made boiling hot 
 in a covered vessel; or you may dissolve the sugar in the 
 wine without any water, and then add the spice. The 
 quantities of all these ingredients must depend upon the 
 cook’s discretion. 
 
 Note. — Lump sugar will make the sauce more delicate. 
 SAUCES FOR VENISON may be either currants 
 boiled till they become tender in water, to which must be 
 added some bread crumbs, a few cloves, port wine, and a 
 little butter; boil the whole gently in a covered vessel a 
 few minutes. The cloves should be taken out before 
 serving up the sauce. 
 
 Or, red wine in the proportion of half a pint, and two 
 
 * Manuel de Cuisinier , p. 73. 
 
 t Ibid. p. 74. 
 I 3 
 
178 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 ounces of sugar, simmered together for five or six minutes 
 in a covered vessel. 
 
 Or, half a pint of vinegar and four ounces of sugar 
 simmered together for a few minutes. This acid sauce is 
 by many preferred to the sweet sauces. 
 
 Note. —As in other sweet sauces, lump sugar will make 
 the sauce more delicate. 
 
 Or, currant-jelly sent up cold; or, melted and sent up 
 in a boat. 
 
 SAUCE ROBERT. Cut onions into small pieces and 
 braise them with some butter in a stewpan over a good fire 
 till they become of a bright brown ; add now a small quan¬ 
 tity of broth, some vinegar, salt, and pepper; simmer the 
 whole together for a few minutes. At the moment of 
 serving it up mix in with it two tea-spoonfuls of ready¬ 
 made mustard; but do not boil it afterwards. If any fat 
 appears it should be taken off. 
 
 Note. —In the original* some flour is ordered to be mixed 
 with this sauce ; but it is certainly not necessary. Instead 
 of vinegar or broth simple water may be employed. The 
 juice of a lemon will improve it; some will add tarragon or 
 other flavoured vinegar. This sauce has been long employ¬ 
 ed in this country for made dishes, such as roasted pork, 
 beef steaks, &c. &c. 
 
 SAUCE FOR ANY ROAST MEAT. Wash clean 
 an anchovy, strip the flesh from the bone and mince it fine, 
 to which add a glass of red wine, a little gravy, a shalot 
 cut small, and a little lemon juice.f Stew the whole 
 together in a covered vessel for fifteen or more minutes ; 
 strain it off and mix it with the gravy which runs from the 
 meat. 
 
 THE SAUCE INDIENNE of the French consists es¬ 
 sentially of good gravy mixed with powdered turmeric and 
 allspice; in short it is a sort of currie sauce. See Currie 
 Powder above. 
 
 SICILIAN SAUCE is made by stewing bruised corian- 
 
 * Cuisinier Royal, page 55. 
 
 t The cook should know that the flesh as well as the bones of 
 flfih contain lime, and that stewing them in acids will in part at 
 least, if not wholly, destroy their acidity; it is best therefore to 
 add the acid to the stiuce just before it is served up. 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 179 
 
 der seeds and cloves with good gravy and essence of ham; 
 to which some add garlic, celery, basil, bay-leaves, &c. 
 But we presume simpler and better sauces may be chosen 
 from our copious catalogue for both fowls and butcher’s 
 meat. 
 
 SAUCES FOR A PIG are made in various ways ; the 
 following may be employed at the pleasure of the cook ; 
 they are essentially those given by Mrs. Glasse and most 
 of the writers on cookery to the present time. We have 
 no wish to invent new ones for this by no means, at any 
 time, a very wholesome dish. 
 
 Dried sage powdered and mixed with the gravy and 
 melted butter. 
 
 Bread sauce as prepared above, page 175. 
 
 Currants boiled in a little gravy, a glass of wine, and 
 
 ( some sugar. A glass of currant jelly may be served up 
 with it. 
 
 Beef gravy, the gravy which comes from the pig, a bit 
 of butter rolled in flour or rather starch, and some catchup, 
 all boiled together for a few minutes. 
 
 The brains of the pig chopped fine, with an anchovy 
 minced, a good piece of butter, flour or starch to thicken 
 it, with the gravy from the pig, all boiled together for a 
 few minutes, with a slice of lemon, some caper liquor, and 
 
 (J, j £ 
 
 SAUCE FOR A GREEN GOOSE may be made with 
 melted butter, a spoonful of sorrel juice, a little sugar, and 
 a few stewed gooseberies. 
 
 A SAUCE FOR A FULL GROWN GOOSE may 
 be good gravy; but apple sauce is always its accompani- 
 
 ; ment. 
 
 SAUCES FOR A ROASTED TURKEY should be 
 good gravy in the dish, with either bread, parsley, and 
 butter, or egg sauce. 
 
 A SAUCE FOR A BOILED TURKEY may be made 
 thus : take the clear liquor of oysters (the quantity must 
 depend upon the quantity of sauce which you require) and 
 boil it for a few minutes with some gravy, a little lemon 
 pickle, butter, and flour or starch to thicken it; some will 
 add also a little thick cream; then put in the oysters and 
 make them hot, but do not let them boil. 
 
180 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 Or bread sauce mixed with melted butter. See Bread 
 Sauce , page 175. 
 
 SAUCE FOR FOWLS. The best sauce for fowls, 
 either roast or boiled, is a good gravy made by boiling the 
 heads, necks, feet, and gizzard in water; the gizzard may 
 be notched, and after being used for the gravy it can be 
 served up under the wing and will be more tender for 
 eating; onion, &c. to season and toasted bread to colour it 
 of course ; a little lean beef may be usefully boiled with 
 the rest; or parsley and butter may be employed instead of 
 the gravy; or for boiled fowls oyster sauce; or white 
 sauce. 
 
 SAUCE FOR ROAST DUCKS may be some good 
 gravy with a relish of sage and onions if you choose. 
 
 SAUCE FOR WILD DUCKS, TEAL, WIDGEON, 
 and ?nost if not all the duck tribe, may be veal or other 
 good gravy, properly seasoned, with toasted bread to colour 
 it ; it will be improved by the juice of Seville oranges and a 
 little red wine ; but care must be taken to boil the whole 
 with the wine in a covered vessel. 
 
 SAUCE FOR PHEASANTS, PARTRIDGES, and 
 other similar game, should be good gravy in the dish and 
 bread sauce in a boat. 
 
 SAUCE FOR LARKS and similar birds may he good 
 gravy and bread sauce. 
 
 SAUCE FOR BOILED DUCKS or RABBITS. 
 Onion sauce is generally considered the best for both these 
 dishes and more especially for the last. 
 
 SAUCE FOR ROAST MUTTON is universally onion 
 
 sauce. 
 
 SAUCE FOR BOILED MUTTON, parsley and but¬ 
 ter; but our epicures will, perhaps, ask for some more 
 stimulating; our preceding catalogue will furnish several 
 
 such. 
 
 OYSTER SAUCE is made in various ways. One of 
 the most simple and perhaps the best is the following : take 
 a pint of oysters and preserve their liquor; put the liquor 
 into a stewpan with a quarter of a pound of butter, to 
 which add some pure starch ; boil gently together for a few 
 minutes, and then put in the oysters previously washed and 
 freed from their beards; simmer the whole gently for about 
 five minutes more. 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 181 
 
 Note .—Some will add various condiments to this sauce, 
 as Indian soy, catchup, cayenne pepper, salt, lemon juice, 
 spice, black pepper, cream, &c. but they are not necessary ; 
 the only addition of which we can approve is some good gravy, 
 which may be sometimes advantageously added to oyster sauce. 
 
 Oyster sauce is used upon various occasions ; with beef 
 steaks, boiled fowls, &c. &c. 
 
 MUSCLE and COCKLE SAUCE may be made in the 
 same way as oyster sauce ; and if you choose, with condi¬ 
 ments; but we do not recommend either of them. 
 
 QUIN SAUCE. Mr. Quin, the celebrated comedian, 
 from his being a well known bon vivant, has had the credit 
 of the invention of this sauce; but, as it is given under 
 various forms, we suppose it is one of those ruses de com¬ 
 merce to which we are indebted for so many other dishes as 
 ■well as sauces. For every useful purpose the essence d’as- 
 sortiment, in page 163, will answer as well as any of 
 those described as Quin sauce in our cookery books ; but 
 as anchovies and walnut pickle are in most of the Quin 
 sauces, both may be added at the pleasure of the cook. 
 Butter of anchovies will, of course, supply readily the first 
 ingredient. 
 
 HORSE-RADISH SAUCE is made in various ways : 
 some order it to be boiled in good gravy with other condi¬ 
 ments ; but if you desire it in its best state it should not be 
 boiled at all, but be mixed after being grated fine (with the 
 gravy or other liquid which you choose to employ) in large 
 quantity, so as to impart to it the decided pungency for 
 which this useful and valuable condiment is known; it 
 may be made hot in the gravy; but we again repeat that 
 it should on no account be boiled ; and we advise, besides, 
 that no other condiments be mixed with this sauce, except 
 i perhaps a little vinegar. 
 
 SORREL SAUCE. Chop fine the tender leaves, &c. 
 of sorrel that have been previously well washed; stew 
 them with some butter till the moisture is nearly gone ; 
 then add some cullis or other good gravy; simmer the w'hole 
 ■together till it is of a proper consistence. 
 
 MUSHROOM SAUCE may be made in many ways; 
 some will make it with dried and powdered mushrooms and 
 : butter, &c.; and as dried mushrooms in powder will keep 
 
182 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 for a long time if deposited in a glass bottle well stopped, 
 this offers a ready method of making mushroom sauce at 
 any time; the more usual way, however, is to stew fresh 
 mushrooms cut into pieces with a little salt, mace, and 
 butter, for half an hour or more, adding some very good 
 gravy and a little lemon juice ; to this some will add cream 
 and the yolks of eggs ; but neither of which do we recom¬ 
 mend. 
 
 CELERY SAUCE may he made by simmering the 
 sliced roots in some good gravy till they are nearly tender, 
 and then adding melted butter or some white sauce to it; 
 but a far more elegant method is to mix the finely powdered 
 seeds of celery or smallage, in a pretty large proportion, 
 with melted butter and nothing else. Such simple sauces 
 are much better than those with a variety of condiments, 
 and which much boiling will certainly greatly injure if it 
 do not entirely spoil. 
 
 Note .—The attempt to make a sauce white by such ad¬ 
 ditions as cream and other unwholesome articles should not 
 be countenanced by any master or mistress of a family; 
 surely there can be no necessity to disguise the natural 
 -colour of any of our food, whether consisting of sauces or 
 of substantial dishes, more especially by unwholesome 
 means. Of a piece with such attempts at imparting- an 
 artificial colour to sauces is that of directing in regard to 
 
 FISH SAUCES that “ they should be of the thickness 
 of light batter that they may adhere to the fish.” A more 
 silly direction was never given ; one of the best and simplest 
 condiments, or sauces if you please, for fish, is vinegar, 
 the absurdity of thickening which will be at once manifest. 
 Of the impropriety of employing xvheat flour to thicken 
 any sauce we have again and again spoken, but we must 
 once more lift up our voice ; on no account employ wheat 
 flour for fish sauce ; but if you determine to have it thick, 
 pure starch. 
 
 A SAUCE FOR ALMOST ANY FISH may be made 
 with mutton or veal gravy stewed with a minced anchovy 
 and a little catchup, to which you may add a glass of 
 white wine; some will put in also a little of the liquor 
 which drains from the fish after it is dressed ; thicken with 
 starch; you may, if you have them, enrich it with a few 
 
SAUCES. 
 
 183 
 
 oysters or shrimps. Vinegar is also an excellent condi¬ 
 ment for most fish ; others like cayenne pepper; and some 
 prefer catchup. 
 
 LOBSTER SAUCE is made in a variety of ways; 
 some make it with the spawn only, pounded fine and mixed 
 with melted butter, a little lemon juice, and salt, and this 
 is perhaps the most elegant way : others pound the meat 
 and the spawn together and mix them with melted butter, a 
 little gravy, salt, and lemon juice. Of course, in both, 
 the lobster must be previously boiled and fit for eating. 
 
 Note .—Some add anchovies to this sauce; others catch¬ 
 up : ome do not pound the meat of the lobster but cut 
 it into dice ; this we do not approve. 
 
 SHRIMP SAUCE is made with shrimps fresh pulled 
 and melted butter, to which is added a little lemon juice ; 
 a gentle simmer altogether for about five minutes will be 
 enough. 
 
 Note .—To have this sauce most strongly impregnated 
 with the flavour of the shrimps, the shells, being washed 
 f clean, should be boiled in water for twenty or more minutes, 
 the water strained off, and the butter with a little starch 
 being- melted in it, the shrimps should be added to it. Some 
 use also cayenne pepper and anchovy liquor in making 
 this sauce—they are not necessary; at most tables cayenne 
 pepper is to be obtained by being asked for; indeed it is 
 ! so useful a condiment that we advise every body to keep it. 
 We have not here specified the quantity of water in which 
 the shrimp shells are to be boiled, for the best of all possi¬ 
 ble reasons, that the quantity must depend upon the quan¬ 
 tity of the shrimp shells: here, as on innumerable occa- 
 t sions in our work, the discretion of the cook must be ex¬ 
 ercised, or her cookery cannot be good. 
 
 ESSENCE OF ANCHOVIES may be made in several 
 ways: the following, though old fashioned, is, perhaps, the 
 best. Boil a pound of anchovies, freed from the bones and 
 cut small, in two quarts of water with two bay leaves, 
 some whole pepper, scraped horse-radish, a bit of thyme, 
 
 ■ two blades of mace, six shalots minced, a gill of port wine, 
 the same quantity of catchup, and half the outside rind of 
 a lemon chopped fine, in a close vessel for twenty or more 
 minutes; when removed from the fire and before it is cold, 
 
184 
 
 SAUCES. 
 
 but not while it is very hot, force it through a coarse cloth 
 or sieve with a wooden spoon. When cold put it into 
 bottles well stopped and keep them in a cool place. 
 
 ANCHOVY SAUCE may also be made many ways. 
 With the butter of anchovies (page 164) and some good 
 gravy ; or with the liquor of anchovies and melted butter ; 
 or with an anchovy freed from the bone, minced and boiled 
 in good gravy for ten or fifteen minutes, with a small quan¬ 
 tity of butter and starch to thicken it; or with essence of 
 anchovies and melted butter, or, instead, with some good 
 gravy. You may add w T hat condiments you please ; but 
 w r e advise none, as they will destroy in some degree the 
 peculiar flavour of the anchovy, in chosing which take care 
 that its flesh when stripped from the bone is of a red 
 colour, and perfectly free from rancidity ; if it be yellowish 
 both within and without it is not good; but its smell will, 
 in general, be a sure guide. If you keep anchovies in a 
 pot or jar, take care that they are w'holly covered from the 
 air with a brine made with coarse bay salt; or rather well 
 covered with salt itself; they should be well pressed together 
 between layers of salt and then layers of the fish. 
 
 FENNEL SAUCE is best and most easily made by 
 boiling sprigs of green fennel in water till they are tender, 
 chopping them fine and then by mixing them with melted 
 butter. See Melted Butter, page 165. 
 
 Some make fennel sauce with equal parts of green fennel, 
 mint, and parsley boiled till they are tender, and then 
 chopped fine and mixed with melted butter; but this is a 
 compound sauce which w r e do not recommend, nor do w T e 
 believe many will desire it. 
 
 PARSLEY AND BUTTER is prepared exactly in 
 the same way as fennel sauce; see Melted Butter , 
 pao;e 165. 
 
 GREEN SAUCE. Bruise green spinach or sorrel in 
 a marble mortar, and strain the juice through a cloth or 
 coarse sieve ; add a little lump sugar and to the spinach 
 juice some vinegar, or, instead, the pulp of stew^ed goose¬ 
 berries ; put in a bit of butter and simmer the w’hole for 
 about five minutes : shake all well together. 
 
 Note, this is sometimes served up with young ducks or 
 green geese. You will want neither gooseberries nor 
 

 SAUCES. 185 
 
 ' vinegar if you employ the juice of sorrel, but to give it 
 I some consistency it may be necessary to add a little starch 
 to the butter. 
 
 LEMON SAUCE is prepared in various ways; but the 
 best of our experience and the example of our neighbours, 
 the French,* direct the following as the most simple and 
 most elegant. Take a quarter of a pint of good veal gravy 
 or, in its absence, simple water, thicken it by boiling with 
 a little pure starch, then add to it the juice of a large 
 lemon, and the outside peel pared very thin and pounded 
 into a paste, or minced very fine, or grated off the lemon. 
 Simmer the whole together for a few minutes. 
 
 Note , a sauce of Seville oranges, or of any other 
 oranges , may be made, if required, in exactly the same 
 i way. Some employ melted butter, others cream, instead 
 of g’ravy or water; others cut the lemon, freed altogether 
 from its rind, into small bits and mix it with the butter; 
 but we disapprove of all these methods: the last without 
 the rind will have little or no taste of the lemon. 
 
 NO cook, we presume, will be here at a loss 
 For Condiments Compound, for Gravies and Sauce ; 
 
 But Prudence, a friend, would now lift up her voice 
 And warn her of those to be careful in choice : 
 
 For the stomach’s the organ where all of our food 
 Is made into mischief or wrought into good; 
 
 If bad be digestion, such horrors arise 
 As confound all our judgment and baffle the wise ; 
 
 If good, how elate and how pleasant we feel. 
 
 We laugh with the lively or dance a wild reel. 
 
 Yet there are who persist in a course of such strife 
 With food and digestion that misery’s their life ! 
 
 How much unto sauces such misery we owe 
 A little observance the gourmand will show. 
 
 Of sauces be therefore most careful in choice 
 And ’twill not be in vain that we lift up our voice.f 
 
 * Sauce Bigarade, Cuisinier Royal, page G2. 
 t Ainsi les jus, les essences de toute espece, &c. &c. sont ex- 
 trSmement recherchees et mis en usage pour stimuler et agacer les 
 liouppes nerveuses de la langue, et faire venir I’eau d la bouche . 
 Mais nous ne cesserons pas le rdpeter, soyez-en sobres, n’en 
 chargez pas trop votre estomac; car ce n’est pas tout que de 
 manger, il faut digerer : c’est par le moyen de cet organ central 
 qu’on se donne des idees gaies, or bien la melancholie; calculez 
 d’apres la quelles peuvent etre les suites d’une mauvaise diges- 
 
186 
 
 SIMPLE CONDIMENTS. 
 
 Of SIMPLE CONDIMENTS, one of the most useful 
 and most important is 
 
 COMMON SALT; it is a combination of soda and 
 muriatic acid, hence called by chemists muriate of soda. 
 
 It is found abundantly in sea-water and in many springs 
 and mines in England as well as in other countries. Its 
 use, as a condiment, has been already alluded to in 
 page 163 of this chapter: we may add here that it is 
 found in more or less quantity in human blood ; and from 
 some late researches of Dr. Stevens, its presence appears 
 essential to the healthy existence of that fluid ; no wonder, 
 therefore, that almost every one desires to take in greater 
 or in less quantity salt as a condiment. Bay salt is no¬ 
 thing more than common salt in larger crystals: it is cal¬ 
 culated for the salting- of fish and other food when slow 
 dissolution of the salt is desirable. Rock salt is common ! 
 salt as it is dug- from the mines without any purification. 
 The uses of all these varieties of common salt in the preser¬ 
 vation of food are too well known to be insisted upon. 
 
 SALT-PETRE, or NITRE, is a combination of nitric 
 acid and potash, hence called nitrate of potash ; it may 
 be also employed in the preservation of animal food; but 
 its chief use in cookery is to impart a red colour to pork, 
 beef, &c.; not, perhaps, with any advantage to their nutri¬ 
 tious properties, but see what is said on this subject in 
 page 134 note. It is brought to this country in a crude 
 state from the East Indies, and purified or refined here. 
 
 SUGAR is also a simple condiment employed on occa¬ 
 sions too numerous to be specified ; but it is not so neces¬ 
 sary nor so wholesome in cookery as salt. We shall say 
 more concerning sugar in other parts of our work. 
 
 VINEGAR, next to salt, is beyond question the most 
 important of the simple condiments; there are few sto¬ 
 machs with which, in moderate quantity, it will not agree: 
 this as w r ell as salt is an excellent antiseptic. A further 
 
 tion, ne fut-elle que lente ou penible, et ce que vous eprouverez 
 a la suite d’un grand repas servira a vous rendra compte de notre 
 assertion, qui n’est que trop fondee sur l’experience .—Manuel de 
 Cuisinier, page 76. 
 
SIMPLE CONDIMENTS. 187 
 
 account of vinegar and its impregnations, with various in¬ 
 gredients, will be found under Pickling, which see. 
 
 BLACK AND WHITE PEPPER are the product of 
 an East-Indian climbing plant, (the piper nigrum.) The 
 only difference between the black and the white is that the 
 first is dried with the external skin of the berry on, and 
 the last is the berry deprived of that skin ; as the acridity 
 of this berry resides in greatest force in the skin, the black 
 pepper is the hottest. Pepper may now be ohtained in 
 commerce in powder pure, or nearly so; it was formerly 
 very much adulterated. We may mention here also long 
 pepper, the product of the piper longum, another plant 
 of the same kind as that which produces the black pepper. 
 We do not believe that it is in any way superior to black 
 pepper. 
 
 ALLSPICE or PIMENTA is a berry of the pimenta 
 vulgaris, a tree, a sort of myrtle, found plentifully in the 
 West Indies. From its spicy flavour it is very often used 
 in cookery. Its chief virtues consist of an aromatic oil, 
 which long boiling will dissipate : this oil is similar in qua¬ 
 lity to, and equally as useful as oil of cloves: to employ 
 this spice and cloves in the same dish would seem therefore 
 superfluous. 
 
 CLOVES are the unexpanded flower-buds of the cary- 
 iphyllus aromaticus, an East-Indian tree. Their taste 
 
 { and smell are well known; the clove is a warm stimulating 
 spice; but as its oil, in which its virtue chiefly resides, is 
 dissipated by heat, the cook should be careful not to boil it 
 . long, nor, if possible, in open vessels. 
 
 NUTMEGS are the kernels of the fruit of the myristica 
 |f noschata, a tree growing in several of the islands of the 
 East Indies. The nutmeg also contains a stimulating essen- 
 ial oil, which is dissipable by heat, and therefore it should 
 hot be subjected to much boiling; in moderate quantity 
 nutmeg proves grateful to the stomach; but it is said that, 
 n large quantities, it is stupifying and narcotic. 
 
 MACE is the dried skin that envelopes the hard dark 
 -hell which contains the nutmeg ; it partakes, of course, of 
 lie properties of that spice : there is, however, some dif- 
 < Terence in their smell; but there can scarcely exist an 
 occasion in cookery, when both mace and nutmeg require 
 
188 
 
 SIMPLE CONDIMENTS. 
 
 to be used together. Long boiling, as with the other fra¬ 
 grant spices, will spoil it. 
 
 CINNAMON is the under-bark of the branches of the 
 laurus cinnamomum, a tree of the bay tribe found chiefly 
 in the island of Ceylon in the East Indies. Cinnamon is 
 thinner than cassia, more tough in its fracture, and of a 
 darker colour; its smell is also more fragrant; and its taste 
 is more astringent and less biting than that spice. It 
 affords an agreeable variety among our simple aromatic 
 stimulants. Its oil, which sinks in water as well indeed as 
 that from some other of the spices, is very convenient for 
 flavouring puddings, a drop of which on sugar is sufficient 
 for a large one. 
 
 CASSIA is the bark of the laurus cassia, a tree also 
 of the bay tribe found in the East Indies. Its oil is so 
 similar to that of cinnamon, that it is often sold for it, and 
 is equally useful. As a spice, however, cassia is more 
 glutinous than cinnamon, and is not therefore so well 
 adapted to be used in substance. 
 
 CASSIA BUDS, which are, it is said, the receptacles 
 of the seed of the true cinnamon tree, contain an oil of 
 equal pungency with that of cinnamon; they are not much 
 known in cooker} 7 , but they will be found occasionally 
 useful when employed in substance to impart the flavour 
 o-f cinnamon, more especially in some pies and puddings. 
 
 GINGER is the dried root of a reed-like plant, the 
 zingiber officinale, which grows wild in the East Indies ; 
 the root is perennial, the stalks are annual; it is now 
 naturalized also in the West Indies, whence the chief of 
 the ginger of commerce is at present derived. That which 
 is whitish and of a solid fractui'e is the best; the woolly 
 roots should be avoided. The virtues of ginger reside 
 chiefly in some matter not easily rendered volatile, yet it 
 readily combines with water, wine, and spirit. But ginger, 
 nevertheless, is best used in powder, with our food; it 
 should never be much boiled as boiling renders it very 
 mucilaginous; hence an infusion only of boiling' water 
 upon bruised ginger makes an excellent substitute for tea, 
 if taken occasionally for breakfast. Ginger is not so 
 much used in cookery as it deserves to be. In the West 
 Indies its fresh I’oot is eaten with salads and with other 
 
SIMPLE CONDIMENTS. 
 
 189 
 
 food. From what has been said an essence of ginger may 
 )e easily made by simply bruising - the root and digesting 
 it in good white wine or proof spirit* for a fortnight or a 
 longer period, shaking the mixture well once a day: in this 
 process there is no necessity for employing heat. 
 
 CAYENNE PEPPER is the powdered pods of different 
 species of capsicum, a well known genus of plants growing 
 in the East and West Indies, and the warm parts of Ame¬ 
 rica. Some are annual plants'; many are reared in this 
 country with suitable precaution. Their pods contain a 
 pungent acridity too well known to need description. This 
 condiment is a very valuable one when used discreetly. 
 The capsicum annuum or annual capsicum, the capsicum 
 grossum or bell pepper, and the capsicum cerasiforme or 
 cherry pepper, are best known in this country, the pods 
 of all which are frequently pickled : but the best cayenne 
 
 pepper is imported from the West Indies; it should be dry 
 and of an orange yellow colour; it is too often mixed with 
 salt and some colouring matter, which render it moist and 
 of very inferior quality. An essence may be easily made 
 from it with good white wine or proof spirit in the same 
 way as directed for ginger. 
 
 MUSTARD, as found in the kitchen, is a yellow powder 
 obtained from the seed of an annual plant, the sinapis nigra, 
 growing plentifully in almost every part of this country; it 
 is seen in most wheat fields. Its virtues reside in a pungent 
 aroma, which cannot be obtained in a concentrated form by 
 ordinary processes, if at ail; it is, therefore, best employed 
 in its crude state, being simply well mixed with cold water 
 and plenty of salt. The best mustard is said to come from 
 Durham, but this is quite a mistake ; mustard is doubtless 
 very often adulterated, and the difficulty of detecting it in 
 such a state is great. 
 
 Note .—It should not be made with boiling or even hot 
 water, as by such means it will much sooner spoil. 
 
 Within the recollection of the writer of this, a large 
 
 * Proof spirit consists of fifty-five parts of pure rectified spirit 
 of wine and forty-five of water. If, however, you desire a more 
 elegant essence, you may use brandy instead of proof spirit; 
 of course, brandy will make it much more expensive 
 
SIMPLE CONDIMENTS. 
 
 190 
 
 wooden bowl was kept in many farm-houses, in the West of 
 England, called the mustard-howl, in which was pounded 
 or rolled over with a heavy iron ball the mustard seed so as 
 to make it into a gross powder, which, although homely in 
 its kind and generally not even sifted, was yet at once 
 genuine, wholesome, and hot ; would that modern refine¬ 
 ment always produced mustard equally good. 
 
 WHITE MUSTARD, sinapis alba, a native also of 
 this country, is distinguished by its white seeds ; it is of 
 similar properties with the last. It is also employed as a 
 salad, for which it is very wholesome. 
 
 HORSE-R ADISH is the root of the cochlearia armo- 
 racia, a well-known perennial, native plant of this country, 
 but cultivated in most gardens. Its virtues reside, as we 
 have elsewhere observed, in a pungent aroma, which is dis- 
 sipable by heat. Horse-radish is, therefore, best as a con¬ 
 diment either scraped or grated ; it is one of our most 
 valuable stimulants whether taken with food or as a medicine. 
 
 Of ONIONS, the product of the allium cepa ; of GAR¬ 
 LIC, of the allium sativum ; of ROCAMBOLE, that of the 
 allium scordoprasum; of LEEKS, that of alliumporrum ; 
 of SHALOT, that of allium ascalonicum ; of the CANA¬ 
 DIAN ONION, that of allium Canadense, remarkable 
 for producing, like garlic, a bulb also at the top of the stalk; 
 and of CHIVES, that of allium chcenoprasum ; we may 
 observe that they are all distinguished by similar properties, 
 and impart to food, when employed discreetly, an agreeable 
 relish. They, nevertheless, disagree with many stomachs, 
 and require to be used, therefore, with great precaution. 
 They appear to suit the robust and rural population of this 
 country much better than that of towns and great cities ; a 
 strong and healthy digestion is necessary to the complete 
 enjoyment of these condiments. As their stimulating pro¬ 
 perties are dissipable, in great measure, by heat, long boiling 
 renders them more mild, and therefore more suitable to 
 dyspeptic stomachs. The mildest of these is chives, the 
 strongest garlic. 
 
 PARSLEY is the green leaves of the apium petroseli- 
 num, a biennial plant, a native of Sardinia, but it has been 
 cultivated for more than two centuries in this country. 
 Three varieties of parsley are known, the common plain 
 
SIMPLE CONDIMENTS. 
 
 191 
 
 leaved, the curled, thick, or double leaved, and the broad 
 leaved, or large Hamburgh rooted; this last is, however, 
 cultivated for its root, which is eaten like parsnips. The 
 double leaved is considered the best; but that and the com¬ 
 mon plain leaved are used indiscriminately. Parsley is an 
 agreeable condiment to a great variety of our food, and, 
 what is very remarkable, it appears to suit almost every 
 Istomach. It is best employed in its green state ; it may be 
 made crisp by being hastily dried in a Dutch oven, or 
 thrown into a pan of hoiling fat, which will crisp it of a fine 
 green provided it do not remain long in it; but no method 
 in which much heat is employed will prevent its stimulating- 
 aroma from being- more or less dissipated. Salting the 
 bruised green leaves is, perhaps, the most effectual way of 
 preserving- that aroma ; but salt with parsley is not always 
 
 I xgreeable or convenient. 
 
 SAGE is the leaves of an evergreen shrubby plant, the 
 salvia officinalis, a native of the south of Europe, but now 
 bund in almost every garden in this country ; there are 
 iseveral varieties, some with greenish leaves, others having 
 nore or less of a purplish tinge ; the last is usually pre¬ 
 ferred for culinary purposes. Sage is an agreeable condi- 
 nent, particularly with goose and roast pork. It had 
 ormerly great repute as a medicine, and gave rise to the 
 ollowing line :— 
 
 Cur moriatur homo cui salvia crescit in horto; 
 
 >ut it is not now in the Pharmacopceia Londinensis, al- 
 hough still used occasionally by the common people instead 
 >f tea. 
 
 CLARY, another [of the sage tribe, salvia sclarea, a 
 tardy biennial, native of Italy, but cultivated in this 
 ountry, may be just mentioned; its leaves are occasionally 
 mployed to flavour soups, its flow-ers for a wine ; but it is 
 lot of much importance in any way. 
 
 BORAGE, the borago officinalis, is well knowm for fla- 
 ouring cool tankards, &c. we have nothing to say against 
 his condiment, and not much in its favour. 
 
 MINT, SPEARMINT, or COMMON MINT, is the 
 talks and leaves of a perennial-rooted plant, the mentha 
 \ iridis, found in most gardens, and is also seen grow-ing 
 
192 
 
 SIMPLE CONDIMENTS. 
 
 wild in many places in this country; it forms an agreeable 
 variety as a sauce, and is in every respect a wholesome con¬ 
 diment. 
 
 FENNEL, the leaves and tender stalks of a perennial- 
 rooted plant, the methum faeniculum, growing wild, bul 
 found in most gardens as a cultivated vegetable. It ie 
 chiefly employed as a pleasant condiment with fish. 
 
 CELERY is the well known blanched stalk of the apiim 
 graveolens, a biennial plant, see page 26. It imparts, af 
 well as its seed, an agreeable and wholesome flavour t( 
 many dishes. The se-eds of smallage (the mother-plant o 
 the cultivated celery) may be also employed for the same 
 purpose. See a note on smallage, page 161. 
 
 CARAWAY SEEDS are the production of an indi 
 genous biennial plant, carum carui, extensively cultivate' 
 in some parts of this country. They are mostly employed 
 in biscuits and confectionary. The leaves of caraway ai 
 occasionally used to flavour soups. Caraway seeds contain 
 a stimulating essential oil; when taken in moderate quanti 
 ties they are at once pleasant and wholesome. 
 
 CORIANDER SEEDS are the production of an an ; 
 nual plant, coriandrum sativum , growing wild, but noi 
 cultivated in several places in this country. They ar 
 chiefly employed by the confectioners ; they form also on 
 of the ingredients in most currie-powders ; the leaves of tb 
 plant are sometimes used in soups and salads. We belie\ 
 that there is no harm in these seeds ; but w r e cannot sa 
 much in their favour. 
 
 TURMERIC ROOT is the production of the curcuni 
 longa, an East as well as a West Indian plant. It is know 
 in cookery chiefly as an ingredient in currie-pow r der ; b 1 
 even for that, as well as for tingeing cakes, &c. of a yello 
 colour, for which it is too much used, w 7 e can give it none 
 our commendation. 
 
 SWEET HERBS are the leaves and tender stalks 
 those plants which possess a smell more or less aromal 
 and agreeable, and tbat impart a taste varying in pungen 
 in the different kinds. The following are arranged und 
 this head in Loudon’s Cyclopaedia of Gardening , name! 
 the thymes, sage, clary, the mints including pennyroyc 
 the marjorams, savory, the basils, rosemary, lavendi 
 
SIMPLE CONDIMENTS. 
 
 193 
 
 tansy, and costmary. Some of these have been already 
 noticed; others, though valuable plants, do not require at¬ 
 tention as condiments. The following are, however, those 
 which we consider as being more immediately the sweet 
 herbs of the kitchen. The practice of mixing so many dif¬ 
 ferent aromatic herbs together we do not approve ; we be¬ 
 lieve that the cook will, in general, find it much better to 
 11 have onl y one °f such in stuffing or other cooking. How 
 much is the flavour of lemon thyme spoiled by admixture 
 with stronger yet less elegant condiments ? 
 
 COMMON or GARDEN THYME is the stalks and 
 Jeaves of an evergreen shrub, the thymus vulgaris, native 
 Ot Spam and Italy, but cultivated in our gardens. It affords 
 a pleasant condiment; but 
 
 LEMON THYME, a more delicate plant, the thymus 
 rel citriodorus, is very preferable to it; as its name imports, it 
 11 13 distinguished, when its leaves are bruised, by a strono- 
 aii smell similar to that of lemon-peel. 
 
 ati| Of MARJORAM four species are cultivated ; the pot 
 marjoram, origanum onites, a hardy perennial; the sweet 
 ai marjoram, origanum\ marj or ana, a hardy biennial, a na- 
 ioi tive ot Portugal, but cultivated in this country ; the winter 
 m\Sweet marjoram, origanum heracleoticum, a hardy peren- 
 oi|nial, native of Greece, but cultivated in our gardens; 
 
 he common marjoram, origanum, vulgare, a hardy peren¬ 
 nial, found wild in various places of this country. The 
 ; |ast is only used in cookery in the absence of the culti¬ 
 vated kinds, all of which are useful condiments when ern- 
 «f»l°yed discreetly. They are most fragrant in their green 
 io#tate, as then affording the greatest quantity of an essential 
 Ail, upon which their virtues chiefly depend ; some of this 
 'llpd 1S lost Li drying them ; but these, as well as the mints, 
 
 ^ [till retain, when dried and carefully kept, a considerable 
 [uantity of their oil. 
 
 is i PENNY-ROYAL, mentha pulegium, is indigenous to 
 ^ithis country, but cultivated in our gardens. It is occa¬ 
 sionally used with other sweet herbs; but it is not so ex¬ 
 citing either in smell or taste as the other mints or the 
 Jlfiymes. 
 
 'Ojl Of SAVORY, two species are cultivated in our o- ar - 
 
194 
 
 SIMPLE CONDIMENTS. 
 
 dens, the summer savory, satureja hortensis, a hardy 
 annual, native of Italy ; and the winter savory, satureja 
 montana, a hardy shrub, native of France and Italy. 
 
 Of BASIL two kinds are also known in this country; 
 the sweet basil, ocymum basilicum, a highly aromatic an¬ 
 nual, native of the East Indies, but long cultivated in our 
 gardens ; and the least basil, ocymum minimum, an an¬ 
 nual, native also of the East Indies, but long cultivated here. 
 The leaves possess a strong flavour of cloves, and on this 
 account are sometimes put into highly-seasoned dishes. 
 Basil is, nevertheless, not a very common condiment in our 
 kitchens ; its absence, at any time, will be no great loss. 
 
 BAY, or SWEET BAY, the laurus nobilis, a native of 
 the south of Europe, is said to be the tree, the branches of 
 which were anciently used to form the crown of victory on 
 many occasions. It is cultivated in this country, and its 
 leaves are often employed to flavour soups and sauces, and 
 are said by some not to be unwholesome, but others assert 
 that they are poisonous ; we advise the cook, as the safest 
 course, to have nothing to do with them. 
 
 If we cannot recommend the leaves of sweet bay still less 
 can we recommend the leaves of the CHERRY-LAUREL, 
 prunus laurocerasus, an evergreen shrub, cultivated in 
 gardens. They have so often proved poisonous as to leave 
 no doubt of their extremely noxious qualities; the cook, 
 therefore, should invariably avoid their use. The poisor 
 which they contain is prussic acid; they have been here 
 tofore, and we fear are still occasionally, employed to im 
 part the flavour of almonds to milk. 
 
 TARRAGON, artemisia dracunculus, is a perennia 
 plant, native of Siberia, and cultivated in our gardens; i 
 has a fragrant smell and an aromatic taste. It imparts t 
 vinegar its aromatic virtues, and may be otherwise employe 
 for variety in our condiments. 
 
 CHERVIL, scandix cerefolium, is an annual plant cu' 
 tivated in our gardens. The leaves are used occasionally i 
 soups and salads; but it is of little consequence in an 
 way. 
 
 BARBERRIES are the fruit of the berberis vulgaris, 
 native of England as well as other parts of Europe. It 
 
SIMPLE CONDIMENTS. 
 
 195 
 
 also cultivated in our gardens; there are several varieties. 
 From their acidity they are considered a pleasant condi¬ 
 ment. 
 
 CAPERS are the flower buds of the capparis spinosct, a 
 trailing shrub, native of the south of Italy and Sicily. They 
 are brought to this country preserved in strong vinegar, and 
 form a very agreeable acidulous condiment on many occa¬ 
 sions. 
 
 SUBSTITUTES FOR CAPERS are occasionally made 
 from the green seed pods of the nasturtium, or Indian 
 cress, an annual flower well known in our gardens. The 
 unripe seed pods of the garden radish have been also em¬ 
 ployed for the same purpose; but neither equal the ori¬ 
 ginal. 
 
 The LEMON is the fruit of the citrus medica, a tree, 
 native of the warmer parts of Asia, but much cultivated in 
 the warmer parts of Europe, and in the green houses of 
 this country. It is, both by its outside, peel, and its acid 
 juice, after vinegar, one of.the most useful and wholesome 
 of simple condiments. Of this truly valuable fruit we need 
 not say more, but that, although dried lemon peel occa¬ 
 sionally supplies the place of the fresh rind, much of its 
 essential oil, on which its flavour depends, is lost in the 
 drying, and, therefore, if the cook desire to retain its best 
 flavour and odour, the outside peel should be grated while 
 fresh, mixed with a little salt, and be kept in a bottle closely 
 stopped. The juice should always be employed fresh; no 
 method has been yet discovered of preserving it in per¬ 
 fection. 
 
 The CITRON is a variety of the lemon but much larger; 
 its acid is similar to that of the lemon. It is not often to 
 be obtained in the shops of this country. 
 
 The LIME contains also a very pleasant acid. It is by 
 some considered a mere variety of the lemon ; by others, a 
 distinct species, and named citrus acida. 
 
 ORANGES, the fruit of the citrus aurantium, an ever¬ 
 green tree, native of China and India, but now very exten¬ 
 sively cultivated in the south of Europe, and also in this 
 country, furnish also a very agreeable acid. The Seville 
 orange is a variety which affords, by its acid and its exte¬ 
 rior peel, very agreeable and wholesome condiments. 
 
 k 2 
 
196 
 
 SIMPLE CONDIMENTS. 
 
 HOPS may also be considered as a simple condiment. 
 As they do not enter into the cookery of the kitchen but of 
 the brewhouse, we shall treat of them in a subsequent 
 chapter. 
 
 TRUFFLES AND MORELS generally appear together 
 in cookery books like shadow and substance. The truffle 
 or subterraneous puff-bull, tuber cibarium, grows a few 
 inches below the earth in some parts of this country, as 
 well as on the continent; it is obtained in the shops in a 
 dry shrivelled state, and imparts a certain flavour. But the 
 truffie as well as the morel, phallus esculentus, a small 
 mushroom, growing in this and other countries, also usually 
 obtained in a dried state, may be very well omitted in all 
 our dishes of cookery; the other more plentiful and less 
 expensive mushroom tribes supplying both their places. 
 
 Of MUSHROOMS we shall speak more at large else- 
 w'here in our work. The liquor obtained from them by the 
 intervention of salt, called catchup, does not appear an 
 unwholesome condiment; and this is as much as we can 
 say for it. 
 
 INDIAN SOY, when genuine, said to be obtained from 
 the seed of the dolichos soja, an East Indian plant, may 
 be here mentioned as being, perhaps, as good as catchup, 
 as a condiment, although its taste is superior to this last 
 with which soy is too often mixed. 
 
 APPLES furnish also, when stewed, an acid condiment 
 that is on many occasions very agreeable. 
 
 GOOSEBERRIES are also another of our fruits which 
 afford, when stewed, a very wholesome and pleasant con¬ 
 diment; to lamb they add a peculiar zest. 
 
 WINE AND BRANDY may be also mentioned as 
 condiments which, when employed discreetly, are at once 
 agreeable and wholesome. 
 
 CONCLUSION ON SAUCES, ETC. 
 
 Of condiments compound or simple or rare. 
 
 You have here, gentle reader! a long bill of fare ; 
 
 You may choose which you please as a sauce or a zest, 
 
 But of this be assur’d, from the East to the West— 
 
 In whatever country—wherever the sun 
 Doth his bright course of glory exultingly run ; 
 
 That if, on emergence, you are at a loss. 
 
 Hunger, Hunger, itself will supply the best sauce ! 
 
197 
 
 CHAPTER X. 
 
 VEGETABLES, INCLUDING THE MOST IMPORTANT 
 GRAINS, LEGUMINOUS SUBSTANCES, GREENS, 
 AND ROOTS USED AS FOOD. 
 
 Throughout the realms of the Vegetable World 
 Where blazonings of Beauty are wide unfurl’d j— 
 From the tender blade to the rich, ripe corn ;— 
 
 In the splendour of noon, at the earliest morn ; 
 From the first bud of spring to the full-blown flower. 
 All, all proclaim an Immortal Power, 
 
 At work in those realms for the use of man ; 
 
 All the which with much care he ought to scan. 
 
 Nor shall it degrade the fair Maiden or Wife 
 To learn how Bread becomes the Staff of Life ',— 
 Nor how too, as said some clownish elf. 
 
 Bright amber Beer becomes Life itself —• 
 
 A potent Fiend or a potent Friend— 
 
 A blessing or a curse upon life to attend!— 
 
 Nor from those realms with wisdom to select 
 What is best wherewith those realms are deck’d. 
 
 General Observations. As this chapter will con¬ 
 tain more important information for the cook than that of 
 mere directions for dressing vegetables for the table 
 usually found in our cookery books, we entreat the cook’s 
 attention particularly to it, being persuaded that no person 
 can be a good one who is not acquainted, in some degree at 
 least, with the natural history and sensible properties of 
 those vegetables which are employed in our cookery. We 
 have no inclination to make the cook a pedant, but we have 
 a very great desire indeed to teach her the reason why 
 many processes are adopted in cookery, concerning which, w r e 
 dare say, she never once thought of inquiring. Thus, if she 
 were asked why it is necessary to ferment wheat flour, it 
 being moistened with water and mixed with yeast, in order to 
 make good bread, she cannot, most probably, assign any other 
 reason than, we always do so. Now, we propose in part in this 
 chapter and in our subsequent one on baking bread, to ex¬ 
 plain to the most ordinary capacity the absolute necessity 
 of this process, in order that wheat flour should be rendered 
 
198 
 
 PRINCIPLES OF VEGETABLES. 
 
 suitable for the human stomach, and without which it will 
 be always more or less unwholesome. We mention this 
 subject here because it is one of the most important in the 
 whole art of the preparation of human food; and one con¬ 
 cerning which more mistakes and mischiefs have been com¬ 
 mitted than with any other article of food with which we 
 are acquainted. 
 
 We shall not enter here into a history of what are called 
 by the chemists, the ultimate principles of vegetables, 
 which by the way are very few in number, the principal 
 ones being carbon, hydrogen, and oxygen; but as these 
 combine with one another in various proportions, they form 
 in vegetables a variety of well known substances, the chief 
 of which are gum, sugar, starch, gluten, extractive mat¬ 
 ter, tannin, colouring matter, fixed and essential oils, 
 resins, acids, and a few other substances, all which are de¬ 
 nominated by chemists th eproxima te principles of vegetables. 
 
 GUM exists in considerable quantity in the sap of many 
 vegetables; it is seen in one of its purest and concrete states 
 in gum arabic, which is the product of the acacia vera or 
 Arabian thorn, a tree, native of Africa. It affords on solu¬ 
 tion in water a nutritious mucilage; some of the African 
 tribes use it as food. The cherry and plum tree in this 
 country afford a similar gum but less pure. 
 
 SUGAR is also more or less diffused in many of the 
 juices of different vegetables; the sugar of commerce is, 
 for the most part, obtained from the saccharum officinarum 
 or sugar cane, a plant extensively cultivated both in the 
 East and West Indies; sugar also abounds in large quanti¬ 
 ty in the fresh juice of the grape, which after fermentation 
 becomes wine, and to which, by the conversion of the 
 sugar into spirit in that process, the stimulating and intoxi¬ 
 cating properties of all wines are chiefly owing. Sugar is 
 also found in large quantity in the juice of the apple, wdiich, 
 after fermentation, becomes cyder; in the juice of the 
 pear and in innumerable other fruits, the cherry, the plum, 
 &c. &c., and also in many roots, such as the carrot, the 
 parsnip, &c. &c. It is also obtained from the juice of the 
 acer saccharinum or sugar maple, a tree growing in North 
 America. We may also mention that it is to sugar the 
 sweetness of all animal milk is owing: a proof that it enters 
 
 ! 
 
PRINCIPLES OF VEGETABLES. 
 
 199 
 
 S 
 
 r 
 
 le 
 
 i- 
 
 )n 
 le 
 ;j. 
 is 
 
 h, 
 
 lie j 
 
 m ’ t 
 
 H 
 
 he I 
 rthl 
 
 I 
 
 ersl 
 
 pretty largely into the food of animals; it is, employed 
 discreetly, a very useful and wholesome aliment. It appears, 
 however, best suited to children and the robust adult. 
 Honey appears to be merely the sugar of vegetables in a 
 particular form, with the addition of a little aroma. 
 
 STARCH is too well known to need description. It is 
 found in greater or less quantity in almost every vegetable 
 substance. All the grains and most seeds contain it in 
 notable quantity; of wheat, in particular, it forms almost 
 three fourths of its bulk. It is found also in considerable 
 quantity in potatoes, and other edible roots, as well as in 
 cabbage, cauliflower, &c. &c. Of rice, barley, and oats, 
 as well as of peas and beans, it constitutes the chief part. 
 It is, beyond question, one of the most universal, useful, 
 and wholesome substances obtained from vegetables, and 
 consequently enters largely into the vegetable food of man; 
 it has the peculiar property of not fermenting like wheat 
 flour, when taken into the human stomach, being dissolved 
 in water by boiling, and hence, in the shape of arrow root, 
 tapioca, sago, &c., is well suited on many occasions for 
 the sick. But it is, notwithstanding, less stimulant and 
 nutritious than the next article, which see. 
 
 Note. —The reader must not confound the starch of 
 which w r e here treat with the starch usually met with in the 
 shops which is in columnar fragments and. has mixed with 
 it a portion, more or less, of indigo or other colouring 
 matter, so as to suit it for the laundress; but that pure 
 starch which may be obtained from wheat flour by simple 
 washing or from potatoes, which see below. 
 
 GLUTEN, or vegetable albumen, as it might be called, 
 is found also in considerable quantity in many vegetables; 
 it constitutes of wheat about one-fifth or more of its bulk, 
 from which it may be obtained by merely washing flour, 
 formed into a paste, in a stream of water; the starch will 
 be removed and the gluten, which is nearly insoluble in 
 water, will remain. It is a tough and somewhat elastic 
 substance of a grey colour; when dried, it is brown and 
 brittle. It is to gluten that wheat flour owes its capability 
 of being made into good bread; no grain which does not 
 contain it in pretty large quantity can be made into good 
 bread As gluten appears to approach much nearer to the 
 
200 
 
 PRINCIPLES OF VEGETABLES. 
 
 nature of animal albumen than any other vegetable sub¬ 
 stance, it is now well known that that vegetable which 
 contains it in the largest quantity will, under ordinary 
 circumstances, support life better than those which contain 
 this substance in much less quantity: wheat stands, there¬ 
 fore, at the head of all vegetables as food, (see wheat 
 below,) and, what is very remarkable, has been so consi¬ 
 dered by most persons in all ages, and in most of the 
 temperate climates of the globe. 
 
 EXTRACTIVE MATTER is another of the proximate 
 principles of vegetables; it is soluble in water, and may be 
 obtained in considerable quantity from many even of the 
 dried roots of vegetables by boiling them in that fluid. 
 When boiled down to a thick consistence it is of a dark 
 brown or blackish colour. The common Spanish liquorice 
 of the shops is a tolerable sample of extractive matter; but 
 it contains also sugar and some other vegetable principles, 
 such as gum or mucilage. As most of the water employed 
 in vegetable cookeiy is thrown away, the cook has not often 
 her attention called to the extractive matter of vegetables. 
 There can be no doubt, however, that the liquor in which 
 some vegetables have been boiled may be usefully converted 
 into human food by due evaporation and care: indeed, it is 
 obvious that too long boiling- of these will extract so much 
 of their nutritive properties as to leave nothing in them 
 worth eating; on other occasions boiling them for a moderate 
 time in water renders them more wholesome and agreeable. 
 
 TANNIN, by some called the astringent principle, 
 exists in many vegetables and particularly in their bark; it 
 is found in considerable quantity in oak bark, in galls, in 
 grape seeds, and it constitutes the astringency, in part at 
 least, of port wine; it is also found in considerable quan¬ 
 tity in tea which is, very probably, the chief substance 
 that makes tea so wholesome to the generality of persons 
 who drink it. What is very remarkable in tannin is, that 
 if a solution of it in water be added to any solution of 
 gelatine, such as isinglass or even common glue in water, 
 the two substances form a compound not soluble in water; 
 in other words, a sort of leather. Upon this property of 
 tannin is the art of converting skins into leather founded. 
 The COLOURING MATTER of vegetables resides in 
 
PRINCIPLES OF VEGETABLES. 
 
 201 
 
 several of the vegetable principles, and therefore the colours of 
 vegetables are affected by different agents in various ways. 
 Alkaline salts, such a§ carbonate of potash, increase the in¬ 
 tensity of the vegetable greens; hence they are occasionally 
 employed by cooks to give a deeper shade to them; in a 
 caustic state alkalis convert vegetable blues to a green; 
 acids, on the contrary, render vegetable blues red, and in 
 many instances increase, or at least preserve the red colour 
 of several vegetables; hence the use of vinegar in pickling 
 red cabbage and some other condiments. We may just 
 mention, as a curious fact, that the green colour of a cab¬ 
 bage-leaf may be entirely extracted from it by digesting it 
 for an hour or two in rectified spirits of wine made hot in a 
 covered vessel. But the colouring matter of vegetables is 
 of more importance to the dyer than to the cook. 
 
 FIXED OILS are those which cannot be dissipated by 
 ordinary heat; olive oil, which is expressed from the ripe 
 pulp of the fruit called an olive, is the most important as an 
 article of food and in cookery. It is used in warmer 
 climates, instead of butter, on numerous occasions; and if 
 sweet and good, it is very wholesome when employed dis¬ 
 creetly. Many other oils may be obtained from the kernels 
 of various nuts , from both sweet and bitter almonds, and 
 also from the seeds of the single white poppy; the oil from 
 these last is considered equal to that of the best olive oil as 
 food or as a condiment; although the white juice of the 
 green head becomes, by drying, the opium of the shops. 
 
 ESSENTIAL or VOLATILE OILS are those obtained 
 by distillation from various vegetable substances; while 
 most of the fixed oils yield, comparatively, little smell, and 
 have, for the most part, a bland taste. Essential oils, on 
 the contrary, are distinguished by the most striking proper¬ 
 ties for which the plants whence they are respectively ob¬ 
 tained are known. Thus we have the various essential 
 oils from the spices, from the mints, lavender and rose¬ 
 mary, from juniper, from the exterior rind of the lemon, 
 commonly called essence of lemon, &c. &c. a small portion 
 of any of which will impart their smell and taste to many 
 substances employed in cookery, as well as in medicine, &c. 
 It is scarcely necessary to add that, as all the essential oils 
 are so readily dissipated by heat, much heat, and particu- 
 
202 
 
 PRINCIPLES OF VEGETABLES. 
 
 Iarly if long’ employed in the cooking of any substance con¬ 
 taining them, must be always injurious to their qualities. 
 Neither essential nor fixed oils can be mixed with water 
 without the intervention of some agent; the essential oils, 
 however, readily dissolve in rectified spirit of wine ; when 
 thus dissolved, if the solution be poured into water, it ren¬ 
 ders the water milky ; the fixed oils do not combine with 
 spirit. 
 
 Note. —The fragrant emanation from flowers, as well 
 as other plants, wdiich constitutes what in vulgar language 
 is called their smell, was formerly supposed to be a peculiar 
 principle, and called spiritus rector, afterwards aroma; 
 but there is reason to believe that it is merely the purer 
 particles of their essential oil. 
 
 RESINS are distinguished from gums by this peculiarity, 
 that most of them will dissolve in rectified spirit of wine, 
 while the proper solvent of gum is w r ater; resins do not 
 often come under the cognizance of the cook; they are 
 frequently employed by the physician; Benjamin and 
 guaiacum are resins; so is genuine turpentine, whence the 
 well know’n oil is obtained; myrrh and some other strong- 
 smelling gums are called gum-resins, because they contain 
 both gum and resin. 
 
 The ACIDS of the vegetable kingdom are the following; 
 that abounding in the lemon and orange tribe is denomina¬ 
 ted the citric; that in the grape is called the tartaric; 
 that found in wood-sorrel, and sugar, is called the oxalic; 
 that in apples, &c. the malic; that in galls, the gallic; 
 and that in benjamin, the benzoic; all these acids, except 
 the two last, are, when used discreetly , pleasant condi¬ 
 ments ; but the oxalic acid, w’hich is usually sold in crys¬ 
 tals, has been often mistaken for some of the purging salts; 
 when taken into the stomach in quantity, it proves a fatal 
 poison. Of vinegar we have before spoken. See p. 186. 
 
 A few other vegetable principles may be mentioned; such 
 is that curious substance camphor obtained from trees of 
 the bay tribe growing in the East Indies; but it is said that 
 several plants growing in this country contain also camphor, 
 particularly rosemary, sage, lavender, and marjoram. 
 Another is too important to be passed over; it is called by 
 some chemists morphia or the narcotic principle; it is 
 
PRINCIPLES OF VEGETABLES. 
 
 203 
 
 found in several vegetables, and particularly in the white 
 poppy. See Fixed Oils, p. 201. Another singular sub¬ 
 stance found in many of the laurel tribe and most of the 
 kernels of the drupaceous fruits, such as the almond, &c. 
 is the prussic acid, one of the most virulent poisons known. 
 We have before adverted to this substance, and shall, most 
 probably, again speak of it in a subsequent portion of our 
 work. The cook need not be therefore surprised at the 
 strong language which we have occasionally used when 
 speaking of the use of bay-leaves, &c. &c. See Bay, 
 p. 194. Wax may be also mentioned as a vegetable pro¬ 
 duction altered in some way, it appears, in its collection or 
 afterwards by the bee ; the uses of wax are well known. 
 There is, however, besides the wax obtained from the bee, a 
 sort of green wax obtained from the leaves and other parts 
 of the candleberry myrtle, the myrica cerifera, a native of 
 some of the warmer parts of North America; but this wax 
 is, in its properties, considerably different from bees’ wax; 
 indeed it is more like a very hard and brittle suet; a wax 
 may be also obtained by bruising and boiling the leaves of 
 many other plants in water. 
 
 Note, that there are several other substances found in 
 particular vegetables, which can scarcely be arranged under 
 any of the preceding heads: they are those which constitute 
 the peculiar qualities of some vegetables, as well alimentary 
 as medicinal. Thus, that from asparagus is called aspa- 
 ragin; from the roots of ipecacuanha, emetin; from quassia, 
 the bitter principle; from the hop, lupulin; from tobacco, 
 nicotin, a very destructive poison; from the Peruvian bark, 
 quinine, a very useful medicine, &c. &c. 
 
 We have thus s-iven the cook a short view of the most 
 important principles of which vegetable substances are com¬ 
 posed; it is true, to many of these in the cookery of food 
 she will not often have her attention called; yet in the 
 cookery for the sick the better she is acquainted with all 
 these the better she will be enabled to perform her function 
 as a cook ; and, if to the office of a cook, she add that of a 
 nurse, suck knowledge will become invaluable to her and 
 to those upon whom she may be called to attend. We can¬ 
 not here enter more into this subject; if further information 
 be desired, a reference to our Family Cyclopaedia, 
 
 1 
 
204 
 
 WHEAT — FLOUR. 
 
 under the several subjects mentioned, will afford it, and, 
 we hope, be more satisfactory. We shall now proceed to 
 consider the most useful and important vegetables employed 
 as food. 
 
 WHEAT being, as we have stated above, at the head of 
 all vegetables as food, demands our first notice. It is the 
 seed of more than one species of the genus triticum, a sort 
 of grass, either cultivated or growing wild in various places 
 in most of the civilized countries of the world. The triticum 
 hybernum, winter, Lammas, or common wheat, of which 
 there are many varieties, is the plant whence the chief part 
 of the wheat which we consume is obtained; there is, how¬ 
 ever, another species, the triticum restivum, summer or 
 spring wheat, so called because it is sown in the spring, 
 which has been introduced into this country. Winter 
 wheat is said to be a native of Sicily and the warmer parts 
 of Asia ; spring wheat is supposed to be a native of Tartary: 
 both are annual plants. Of the varieties of wheat, it is 
 not necessary we should speak further than to observe some 
 of them have bearded ears, others have the ears without 
 the appendage of a beard; this last is by far the most com¬ 
 monly cultivated in this country, and is said to afford the 
 finest flour. 
 
 Of the nutritive properties of wheat, according to the 
 analysis of Sir Humphry Davy, the whole quantity in one 
 thousand parts was 961, of which mucilage or starch con¬ 
 stituted 722 parts, and gluten or albumen 239 parts; this 
 was, however, the product of Sicilian wheat; spring wheat 
 produced 940 parts of nutritive matter, of which 700 parts 
 were starch, and 240 parts gluten. The proportion of these 
 ingredients varies in different wheats, but the average por¬ 
 tion of gluten in all is most commonly more than 200. 
 There is besides in wheat a portion of sugar, which causes 
 it to undergo, when reduced into flour, and moistened with 
 water, a peculiar fermentation, during which is extricated 
 not only carbonic acid gas, but also a portion of spirit or 
 alcohol, the product of such fermentation: this spirit has 
 been latterly collected by a particular process, of which we 
 shall say more under Baking. From this analysis of 
 wheat, and from what has been said above under Gluten, 
 its nutritive properties may be readily estimated; but it is, 
 
WHEAT—FLOU R. 
 
 205 
 
 nevertheless, indispensible to the cook to know that wheat 
 flour, being merely mixed with water, and baked or boiled 
 very slightly, produces, when taken into the stomach, con¬ 
 siderable distention and disturbance; so that, although un¬ 
 der suitable management, it is the most nutritious of vege¬ 
 tables, yet, by mismanagement, it may and often does pro¬ 
 duce the greatest inconvenience to the stomach, the bowels, 
 and even to the brain: this inconvenience is produced 
 chiefly from the disposition which flour has of entering, 
 when moistened, and more especially when introduced into 
 the stomach, into almost immediate fermentation; hence 
 the necessity for its being fermented previously to being- 
 made into bread; and hence also the absolute necessity for 
 its being well boiled in the shape of puddings, &c.; and 
 hence the chief cause, namely, the absence of previous fer¬ 
 mentation, that baked pastry is often so troublesome a 
 guest in the human stomach. It is true there are some 
 stomachs possessing such strong powers, that not even un¬ 
 leavened bread nor unfermented pastry can disturb them; 
 but these are exceptions, and belong, for the most part, to 
 the labouring portion of our rural population. 
 
 From what has been said, it will be readily seen why 
 wheat flour is not suitable for the food of infants without being 
 previously fermented; amongst the intelligent in this coun¬ 
 try this fact has been long known ; but it is greatly to be 
 feared that, even now, many uninformed persons too often 
 gorge their children and infants with a pap made in 
 haste with milk or water and -wheat flour: to infants 
 such a preparation is peculiarly injurious; the practice 
 ese now adopted by the intelligent classes of society of forming 
 or- Infant’s pap from those well fermented and well baked 
 cakes called tops and bottoms, or from well fermented and 
 well baked biscuits, is by far the best, such food being 
 much more suitable to the infant’s digestive functions, and 
 ►consequently less liable to make it peevish, fretful, and 
 iiseased.* 
 
 ises 
 
 * It is pleasant to find the intelligence of our neighbours, the 
 rench, keeping pace with ours. “ On fait,” says M. Morin, in 
 ' - ris Manuel d’Hygiene, under the article Bit, “ avec le lait et la 
 arine de froment une bouillie, autrefois tres usitee pour la nour- 
 lture des enfans du premier age, mais elle leur fatigue l’estomac, 
 
206 
 
 DRY TOAST—BREAD. 
 
 We may here, too, make a few observations on those 
 well-known slices of bread, so frequently attendant on our 
 breakfast-tables, called dry toast , which when cold and 
 spread over with butter, agrees with many stomachs so 
 well, and so much better than plain bread and butter ; the 
 cause, however, of its so agreeing does not seem to be gene¬ 
 rally understood, although the fact is undoubted. It is 
 well known, too, that new bread is also very injurious to 
 the stomach, and that in general bread ought to be at 
 least twenty-four hours old before it is eaten; this proves 
 that there is something injurious which escapes from the 
 bread during its cooling, or that it undergoes some other 
 change favourable to digestion. In the toasting of slices 
 of bread we believe that another agent is brought into 
 action, namely, some alkaline salt, most probably potash ; 
 we know that potash is obtained from the ashes of vegeta¬ 
 bles; and there is no improbability in the supposition that 
 the potash in the bread is set in part free, and on the bread’s 
 entering the stomach, it may combine with any acid which 
 might form or be found there, and thus contribute to the 
 healthy action of the digestive functions. But, although 
 Fashion may prescribe, as we know it sometimes does, 
 that the brownest and darkest part of the toast shall be re¬ 
 moved in order to render it of a more uniform colour, as 
 well as to get rid of a bitter taste which toasted bread occa¬ 
 sionally has ; yet, if the doctrine here laid down be correct, 
 the best part of the toast by such a process will be taken 
 away.* 
 
 These remarks may seem of trifling moment; they are 
 not so; every thing which concerns digestion ought to be 
 attended toby the intelligent cook. There can be no doubt 
 that many of the inconveniences attributed to butter, when 
 eaten with bread, arise much more frequently from the 
 
 les nourrit mal en raison de la dilliculte qu’ils eprouvent a la 
 digerer.” 
 
 * An additional proof of this doctrine consists in the fact that 
 well-baked white bread has a tendency, for several days after it 
 is baked, and when exposed to the air, to become dry : dry toast, 
 on the contrary, very soon after it is prepared, absoros moisture 
 from the air, and becomes, consequently, soft and moist; the best 
 time of eating it is as soon as it is cold ; not certainly w'hen it has 
 become moist. 
 
BREAD — PUDDING — BARLEY. 207 
 
 bread than the butter: and this because the bread is eaten 
 | too new or not properly fermented, or from both causes com¬ 
 bined. See below what is said concerning- Puddings with 
 Fat. See also our Chapter on Baking Bread forwards. 
 There is one other subject connected with wheat and 
 
 ( wheat flour that deserves the cook’s attention; it is this: 
 that both in boiling- and in baking it, when made into paste 
 and not previously fermented, an admixture of some fat 
 with it, and particularly mutton or beef suet, renders it 
 more suitable for the stomach. This is exemplified in what 
 is called plain suet pudding, which when well boiled, and 
 it can scarcely be boiled too much, suits the stomach better 
 than any other pudding- made with wheat flour; add fruit 
 and sweetmeats to the same kind of pudding-, and you ren¬ 
 der it at once very indigestible by many stomachs. This 
 arises chiefly from the sugar and the other matter in the 
 fruit and sweetmeats which go into fermentation as soon as 
 they enter the stomach. The same may be said of baked 
 pudding, with this difference, that the flour in the paste, as 
 well as the fruit, not being immersed in water as the boiled 
 pudding is, cannot give out its fermenting qualities, and 
 hence, together with the excessive heat which produces a 
 sort of rancidity of the fat employed, baked puddings, of 
 which wheat flour is the basis, as well as pies, are for the 
 dyspeptic extremely unwholesome, and ought therefore to 
 ■ be scrupulously avoided. We shall advert to this subject 
 £ again under our Chapter on Puddings and Pies. 
 
 1 ; Note .—We are disposed to consider the admixture of fat 
 ' with four not only desirable, because the fat is, when em- 
 ? ployed in moderate quantity, nutritious, but as more imme- 
 i diately useful in comminuting or much separating the 
 gluten, so as to render it more susceptible of being acted 
 upon by the digestive powers, and thus more easily con- 
 j verted into nutriment. We consider fat mixed with flour 
 similar to fat cheese; the fat or butter of the milk being 
 mixed in tolerable quantity with the albumen or curd of the 
 milk, it is thus rendered more digestible and wholesome; 
 whereas cheese without fat, as every one knows, is at once 
 indigestible and unwholesome. 
 
 BARLEY is the seed of the hordeum distichon, or 
 common cultivated barley, the native country of which is 
 
208 
 
 BARLEY—BYE. 
 
 not exactly ascertained. Besides this species three others 
 are also cultivated: the hordeum hexastichon, or winter 
 barley, called in Scotland bear or bigg, which has six rows 
 in the ear; the common barley has only two; the hordeum 
 vulgare, or spring 1 barley; and the hordeum zeocriton, 
 or battledore barley ; they are all annual plants. 
 
 The chief use of barley is, in this country, after its 
 being converted into malt, for brewing various malt liquors, 
 and for obtaining alcohol or spirit of wine with which gin 
 and many other spirituous liquors are made. The consti¬ 
 tuents of barley are, in 1000 parts about 920 of nutritive 
 matter, 790 of which are starch, 70 of sugar, and 60 only 
 of gluten ; hence, from the small quantity of gluten which 
 it contains, it does not make good bread; but from its large 
 proportion of sugar, which its conversion into malt con¬ 
 siderably increases, it becomes a very important article in 
 our diet. It is, nevertheless, employed on many other 
 occasions: in Scotland and some other countries it is 
 used in considerable quantities for broths, soups, &c.: for 
 this purpose it is freed from the husks and the ends of the 
 grains taken off; in this state it is known by the name of 
 Scotch barley; being still more freed from its brown in¬ 
 teguments, and the white, middle, and best portion of the 
 grain only retained, it is called pearl barley ; in this state 
 it is also occasionally employed in cookery, and more 
 especially for the sick. There has been, also, lately in¬ 
 troduced a flour of it called prepared barley, which is, on 
 many occasions, very useful to make gruel and even barley 
 water, either of which with such flour may be made by 
 simple boiling in water in a very few minutes. Barley, 
 although containing sugar in considerable quantity, is from 
 its small portion of gluten much better suited to many 
 stomachs than wheat flour; and hence its uses in cookery 
 for the sick. Barley, as well as barley meal, is used for 
 fattening poultry and pigs. Prepared barley, in the 
 absence of fine starch, may be employed instead of wheat 
 flour in thickening gravies, &c. Although barley bread is 
 occasionally made and eaten, it is very inferior every way 
 to that made from wheat. 
 
 RYE is the seed of the secale cereale, an annual plant 
 supposed to have been originally brought from the island 
 
RYE — OATS — GRITS. 
 
 209 
 
 of Crete. Its constituents are, in 1000 parts of nutritive 
 matter about 792, of which 645 are starch, 38 sugar, and 
 109 gluten; rye is, therefore, after wheat, the most pro¬ 
 per grain for making bread, for which it is sometimes 
 employed, alone or mixed with wheat flour. Rye is also 
 used for the making of spirits; it is liable to a peculiar 
 ts disease, when it is called horned or spurred rye, in which 
 state it is covered with a violet-coloured skin, and becomes 
 engthened into a horn or spur, whence its name ; in this 
 state it is poisonous, producing, when eaten, pains in the 
 imbs, and spots and gangrenous ulcers on the surface of 
 the body. Rye is, it is said, often used by the ginger- 
 iread bakers instead of wheat flour. 
 
 OATS are the seeds of the avena sativa, an annual 
 slant much cultivated throughout Europe and in Great 
 Britain. It is said to be a native of Chili. Of oats there 
 ire many varieties—white, black, brown, red, &c. An- 
 )ther species of oats, the avena nuda, naked oats, or pil¬ 
 ot ?orn, is a native of this country; but this, as well as several 
 jther wild kinds, are of no esteem as food. 
 
 The cultivated oats, although not of such importance as 
 vheat or barley, are nevertheless of great use on many 
 tccasions as human food. We use them, when deprived 
 )f their husks, under the name of groats or grits, and 
 : ilso as oatmeal; both of which are employed for the 
 naking of gruel, and for which the oat is peculiarly 
 
 
 good 
 
 idapted. We advise, however, when very pure and 
 ;ruel is desired, that it should be obtained from sweet 
 vhole groats rather than from oatmeal; the groats should 
 >e bruised beneath the rolling-pin before being put in to 
 nM oil. Besides being used for gruel, oats are in Wales and 
 
 
 he northern parts of our island, otherwise employed as 
 rdinary food, made into porridge or into cakes. The 
 onstituents of oats are in 1000 parts, of nutritive matter 
 bout 743, of which 641 parts are starch, 15 only are 
 ugar, and 87 gluten. From the small quantity of sugar 
 vhich is contained in oats, together with some other pecu- 
 iarity in them not at present well understood, they are 
 veil suited to the sick and convalescent; as well as, indeed, 
 ,t night, as a light supper when made into gruel even for 
 ersons in health. The only addition that such gruel 
 
210 
 
 PEAS-GREEN, DRY. 
 
 requires is salt; some will add sugar to it, but this for the 
 dyspeptic and the sick will be generally injurious. The 
 best addition to gruel besides salt is well boiled currants, 
 i. e. the Corinth raisin of the shops; the acidulous pro¬ 
 perties of these have a tendency to relax the bowels, and 
 thus what is offensive to the stomach may be carried off. 
 
 PEAS are the seeds of the pisum sativum, a well known 
 annual plant, of which there are many varieties. The pea 
 is said to be a native of the south of Europe; it has been 
 cultivated for ages in this country. The constituents of 
 peas are in 1000 parts, of nutritive matter 574, of which 
 501 parts are starch, 22 sugar, and 35 parts of gluten, 
 and 16 parts of extractive matter. We see, therefore, 
 how far below wheat are peas in their nutritive properties. 
 Peas are distinguished when eaten green into early and 
 late; one of the chief early peas is the Charlton ; of the 
 late peas the marrowfat is one of the best. Green peas 
 ought always to be eaten young, if you desire to have them 
 so that they may agree with the stomach ; when they are 
 old they are very windy ; they are most wholesome when 
 eaten with some stimulating animal food, such as roasted 
 mutton. Almost innumerable dishes are made with peas, 
 both green and dry; we cannot enumerate them. 
 
 TO BOIL GREEN PEAS. After the peas are shelled 
 and washed, put them into plenty of boiling water, to 
 which add a small portion of salt; when they are tender 
 they are done. You may put a piece of butter to them in 
 your dish ; or you may send up with them melted butter 
 in a boat. Some, indeed most persons, in London, boil 
 with them a bunch of green mint, which is usually served 
 up with them ; or it may be minced and placed in lumps 
 upon the edge of the dish. Others choose boiled parsley 
 with them instead of mint. The green liquor makes an 
 elegant broth. 
 
 Note .—Most of our cookery books direct peas to be 
 boiled with the addition of a lump of sugar—why, we do 
 not know ; we believe it to be quite unnecessary. 
 
 TO BOIL DRY PEAS. Dry peas differ exceedingly 
 in their qualities as to boiling ; some are with the greatest 
 difficulty made tender by the longest boiling; others, again, 
 become soft very readily; it is desirable therefore to know, 
 
PEAS—BEANS. 
 
 211 
 
 
 if possible, before you set any large quantity to boil, whe¬ 
 ther they are good boilers or not. In towns where split 
 'peas can be readily obtained, and which are most com¬ 
 monly used for puddings and soups, some of the trouble of 
 long boiling is superseded ; but when you boil whole peas 
 it is necessary that they should be soaked in water for 
 twelve or more hours before being submitted to the boiling 
 process; by these means the process is considerably acce¬ 
 lerated. In boiling them a good portion of salt will also 
 be a very useful addition to the wrnter. The water in 
 which they have been soaked should be thrown away; and 
 it will be found the best method, after adding fresh water 
 and the salt to them, to put the whole over the fire cold. 
 The liquor from good boiling dry peas makes an excellent 
 broth ; it may be flavoured with what you please. Dry 
 boiled peas are a homely, but eaten with bacon or with 
 ilmost any other animal food, are a good winter dish; 
 pepper is always eaten with them : at the same time the 
 lyspeptic must avoid it. 
 
 Peas wall also make a good family dish by being baked; 
 ^ou may put in with them any cold meat and bones which 
 ,'ou might happen to have. It should be submitted to a 
 rot oven. 
 
 BEx4NS are the seeds of the vicia faba, an annual 
 plant, a native of the east and Egypt; there are several 
 ■rarieties; the Windsor beans, and the small kind called 
 'torse beans, because much employed in feeding horses, 
 ire best known. Beans are chiefly known to the cook in 
 - jheir green state. The constituents of beans are, in 1000 
 )arts, of nutritive matter 570, starch 426, gluten 103, and 
 ■xtractive matter 41. Next therefore to rye, beans con- 
 ain the greatest quantity of gluten, and are consequently 
 alculated for making bread, although the bean is well 
 mown, as a food, to be very flatulent; indeed, it is said 
 Jjiat the bakers put a considerable quantity of bean flour in 
 heir wheaten bread which renders it much less fitted for 
 he stomach. 
 
 Although parched horse beans are well known to chil- 
 ren in the country, and by them eaten with avidity, yet 
 hey are apt, if eaten in great quantity, to produce unplea- 
 ant symptoms : it is true they were given to the poor, and 
 
212 
 
 POTATOES. 
 
 boiled and eaten by them, not without considerable mur¬ 
 muring-, in, the times of scarcity in the years 1800 and 1801 i 
 and it is also true that, while the slave-trade existed, the 
 slaves in the middle passage were fed upon boiled horse- v 
 beans and palm oil used with them instead of batter; yet j 
 there seems a general repugnance to them in this country ; 
 No doubt bean flour is often mixed with wheat flour, anc 
 sold as the pure flour of wheat only. 
 
 WINDSOR BEANS should be boiled, after being j 
 shelled, in plenty of water, with a considerable portion o; j 
 salt in it. When they are tender they are done. The} i 
 should be served up with boiled parsley chopped fine, anc i 
 mixed with melted butter. 
 
 Note .—Some will boil beans with bacon or other meat iq 
 but if you desire to have them delicate, 
 always boiled alone. 
 
 POTATOES are the well known tubers of a perennia ; 
 plant, the Solarium tuberosum , a native of South America j 
 they belong to the nightshade tribe, and hence some per « 
 sons have fancied that they are occasionally injurious whe* 
 eaten as food ; but the daily experience of mankind prove; 
 that this notion is erroneous. They were not known in thi; 
 country till towards the end of the sixteenth century; anc 
 are supposed to have been introduced by Sir Walter Raleigl 
 or his followers. The constituents of potatoes are in 100( ; 
 parts, of nutritive matter from 200 to 260 parts, of whicl 
 from 155 to 200 parts are starch, from 15 to 20 sugar, anc 
 from 30 to 40 gluten ; compared with the dry grains pota 
 toes appear considerably below them in nutritive properties; 
 but as they consist in their raw state of a considerable por 
 tion of water, they become, when well boiled and renderec 
 dry and mealy, of no mean estimation as human food ; it is 
 true they cannot be made into good bread, but being mixec 
 in a certain proportion with wheat flour, they make sucl 
 bread at once agreeable and wholesome. 
 
 The potatoe consists of numerous varieties, both white 
 and red; and it is, perhaps, difficult to say which are the 
 best; we believe, nevertheless, that preference should be 
 given to those of the kidney kind, among other reason; 
 because from their being flatter in their form they boi 
 sooner, the heat penetrating them more readily than it doe; 
 
 they should 
 
 be 
 
POTATOES. 
 
 213 
 
 he large round potatoe. They are dressed in various ways; 
 'some of our cotemporaries boast of the numerous methods 
 ;hich they present to their readers for dressing this pleasant 
 d very useful root; a root that is eaten and relished by 
 erhaps more persons in temperate climates, than, for a 
 ontinuance, can be any other vegetable production except 
 read ; and it appears also to suit almost every stomach, 
 though an exception to this will now and then be found. 
 vVe shall not imitate our brethren by such details, because 
 ew cooks of ordinary capacity will be at a loss, after the 
 general directions which we are laying down, to cook a 
 >otatoe in any way that may be useful and agreeable. 
 
 Some methods of cooking them have been already ad- 
 erted to, see page 76. We may observe here that potatoes 
 .re usually prepared for food either by boiling in water, the 
 nost common method, and in our judgment by far the best; 
 »y steam ; by being roasted in a Dutch oven before the 
 ire or on the hot hob of a fire place ; or by being- baked 
 
 
 ither in an oven, or covered over with very hot ashes, or 
 >y being cut into thin slices and fried in butter, dripping, 
 >r other fat. Another plan has lately been introduced, and 
 irevails in London to a certain extent, and that is of sub- 
 nitting them in a thick bottomed iron saucepan with a tight 
 over to the action of fire without the addition of any 
 rater. Of this we can state, that although potatoes so 
 ressed may suit the stomachs of the healthy and robust, 
 hey will be found to disagree with the delicate and the 
 yspeptic: and for this reason, that the sugar which the 
 iotatoe contains is retained in them after they are dressed, 
 nd, consequently, is disposed to ferment in the stomach, 
 nd hence arise many unpleasant consequences; whereas, 
 rhen the potatoes are boiled in water, the sugar is washed 
 ut, and their disposition to ferment removed; this argu- 
 aent will apply also in some degree to roasted as well as 
 o baked and fried potatoes ; but steam is different in this 
 espect, that, it being water in a high state of heat, there 
 i an opportunity for the sugar to become extracted. 
 
 But there is one other consideration of some moment in 
 ressing potatoes, and that is, in whatever way they maybe 
 ressed, it is particularly desirable while they remain very 
 ot that they should be exposed, for a short time at least, to 
 
214 
 
 POTATOES. 
 
 the air; by this means the water in them escapes the more 
 readily, and they thus become mealy ; but we believe that, 
 besides the water of the potatoe which escapes, of course, in 
 steam, there is some other gaseous matter which escapes 
 that is peculiarly injurious to the digestive powers: not 
 only should boiled potatoes be thus treated, but potatoes 
 dressed in whatever way besides; after they are roasted or 
 baked, they should be cut lengthwise in two while hot, so 
 that the water or other volatile matter may escape before 
 they are eaten. 
 
 BOILED POTATOES. These will be best boiled 
 after being properly cleansed and the eyes, &c. picked out, 
 with the skins on; they should be put into an iron saucepan 
 with just sufficient cold water to cover them ; set them on 
 the fire to boil and when you can pass a fork easily through 
 them, or when the skins begin to crack, pour off all the 
 water, and hold them occasionally over the fire, shaking 
 them up in the saucepan, so that all may be equally ex¬ 
 posed to the air and they will soon be done. The circular 
 and moveable iron, with which most good grates are fur¬ 
 nished, will assist the cook in this particular very much 
 After the potatoes are boiled they may be served up with or 
 without the skins as may be desired : many persons think 
 the skins unwholesome; we never knew any one injured 
 from eating them ; they contain a peculiar flavour that is to 
 many very agreeable. 
 
 Note .—Some add salt in boiling potatoes; and some¬ 
 times, where they do not boil readily, salt may accelerate 
 the process; but salt is not in general necessary. Butter is 
 always a useful addition to potatoes. 
 
 SCOLLOPED POTATOES are usually beaten fine 
 with butter or cream and some salt; or instead of butter or 
 cream, some use milk. They are put into scollop shells 01 
 tins, whence their names, with bits of butter on the top, 
 and browned in a Dutch oven before the fire. 
 
 MASHED POTATOES are prepared by being mixed 
 with butter, milk, or cream, or even some sweet dripping. 
 The potatoes being well boiled, mealy, and freed from the 
 skins, must be beaten into a smooth mass with a wooden 
 spoon and then be mixed with the butter, or whatever other 
 fat or liquid you may choose, with also a little salt; after 
 
POTATOE STARCH-RICE. 
 
 215 
 
 tvhich let the mixture be made carefully hot and kept as 
 dean and as white as possible. The cook will take care to 
 make the surface of the dish smooth, or chequer it with the 
 jack of a knife. 
 
 POTATOE STARCH. Having again and again alluded 
 in our work to this very useful article, it is here necessary 
 that we should describe the method in which it is to be 
 jbtained ; it consists simply in grating raw potatoes well 
 deansed from their impurities, into a coarse hair sieve 
 ijj daced over a pan; the starch will separate from the grated 
 matter, and may be washed from it with water into the pan. 
 4fter the starch has subsided to the bottom of the water, 
 he water may be poured off; the starch will appear as a 
 ine white sand; it may be dried before the fire or in any 
 Jther convenient way. 
 
 Note. — Although we call tYnspotatoe starch, yet from the 
 post extensive inquiry it appears that starch from every sort 
 )f vegetable is essentially the same whether it be obtained from 
 Potatoes, wheat, rice, or under the terms of arrovo-root, 
 tapioca, sago, salep, &c. &c. It is true that in the starch 
 detained from the potatoes the particles are more crystalline 
 han that obtained from some other vegetables, but it differs 
 >n no other account. The French, we observe, now direct 
 jotatoe starch to be employed in thickening broths, &c. 
 ?ee Cuisiniere Bourgeoise, 8th Edit. Paris, 1830. See 
 . pT arch above. > 
 
 RICE is the seed of an annual plant, the oryza sativa, 
 upposed to be a native of Ethiopia, but now cultivated in 
 he south of Europe, as well as in various w r arm regions of 
 *(he earth, especially the East Indies and America. There 
 s said to be only one species of this plant, but there are, 
 tevertheless, many varieties; the best rice is that obtained 
 from Carolina. The rice, as we find it in the shops, is a 
 vhitish grain freed from its husks. It constitutes the chief 
 >art of the food of the common people of India ; it is, how- 
 ver, in this country considered rather as a dainty than a 
 necessary ; its chief constituent is starch ; indeed, ground 
 <: 'ice will supply the place of starch for many coarse purposes ; 
 his article was some years since, and perhaps now is, em- 
 >loyed as hair powder, it may also supply the place of flour 
 n thickening gravies, &c.; and if obtained pure and white 
 
216 
 
 RICE. 
 
 it may be advantageously employed in making gruels and 
 puddings. See below Rice-Milk. 
 
 Rice agrees very well with most stomachs ; but it does 
 not appear to be equal to the potatoe in its nutritive proper¬ 
 ties ; we find, at least, that the lower classes prefer the 
 potatoe to it. Simple boiling in water till the grains are 
 soft is all the preparation necessary to fit it for the stomach. 
 It is used by the luxurious in puddings, &c. See Pud¬ 
 dings. 
 
 BOILED RICE. We have alluded to plain boiled rice 
 in a note, page 38, to which the reader will refer. But 
 we may just mention here that one pint of rice, well wash¬ 
 ed in cold water and afterwards picked clean from any im¬ 
 purities which might be mixed with it, should be boiled in 
 two quarts of water till it becomes tender, when it must be 
 drained in a colander and served up. Or some will tie the 
 rice loosely in a cloth and boil it; care must in this case be 
 taken that there is plenty of room for the expansion of the 
 rice, or the boiling- will be very long and perhaps incom¬ 
 plete. 
 
 Note. — Some add a little salt to boiled rice as soon as it 
 is done; and others expose it for a few minntes to the fire 
 in order to render it more dry; or it may be tossed up 
 in a saucepan over the fire, taking care that it does not 
 burn. Of course the cook may add butter to it if it be 
 desired. * 
 
 RICE TO BE EATEN WITH A CURRIE. Wash 
 and pick clean one pound of rice; pour two quarts of 
 boiling water on it, and let it simmer till it is about three 
 parts done; then strain and wash it in several waters till 
 it becomes free from slime ; next drain it in a large hair 
 sieve; when quite dry put it into a stewpan in some paper, 
 with the cover over it; it must, lastly, be baked moderately 
 for about one hour and a half. 
 
 RICE-MILK is sometimes made by simmering rice 
 previously washed and picked in good raw milk ; but the 
 time necessary for doing this so as to make the rice tender 
 ■will be so long that the probability is the milk will become 
 burnt, and consequently spoiled. A better ivay will be to 
 take rice already boiled sufficiently, and put what quantity 
 you please into the milk; then simmer for ten or fifteen 
 
 
 I 
 
217 
 
 green vegetables. 
 
 one n o?tWTw 8 ' n me COndiments > P ei>b aps cinnamon is 
 f a u , ? r you ma T mix ground rice with the 
 k made boding- hot, and afterwards simmered for a few 
 minutes with cinnamon, to which you may, if you please 
 add lemon-peel and a little sugar. ' * } pl ’ 
 
 N°te —Care must be taken to mix the ground rice into 
 a smooth pap, with a little cold milk, before it is put into 
 that which is scalding, or it will be clotty : half an ounce 
 
 mil| r ° Und nCG W1 b<5 m ° re than sufficient for a pint of 
 
 VE^ E ETABLFS DI \T TI ? N n F ° R B0ILING GREEN 
 VLGM AhLhb. They should, in the first place be ob- 
 
 tained, if possible, from the garden in the moraine- 0 f 
 
 fe day ° n WhlC t tiey are wanted t0 be Pressed : for they 
 will be then in the greatest perfection. Those which have 
 
 ibeen cut more than one or two days should be avoided, particu- 
 ar y in the summer season, because they so soon go Lto the 
 
 & 4 be u carefull y P aid t0 this - Care must also be 
 aken that they are nicely picked and washed, and all the 
 
 putside and decaying leaves removed, and that they are 
 forwards put into cold water, to which some wilf add 
 -a t, for an hour or more , before they are set to boil • 
 his is particularly necessary with all greens, in order 
 nore effectually to detach any insects which may remain 
 “ th . e ™: and wbich all your care will rarely, 'if ever 
 
 completely remove without it. ’ 
 
 !J be : V i/ h0Ul< ? he foiled in plenty of water, to which a 
 little salt may be added, particularly if the water be soft 
 is also usual to put them into the water when it is boilino- i 
 nd where the greens are in leaves or in small heads, this fs’ 
 perhaps the best practice ; but if a large head of cabbao-e 
 f bmled whole it may be put in when the water is cold • 
 If* 18 no J a good practice to boil large cabbages whole’ 
 
 > the outside will be done too much before the inside is 
 I . f done. They should be boiled till they are tender- 
 I is nevertheless of importance that they should not be 
 
 itsftheii^reV I ^ thUS £ 0t ° nl - y lose ’ in part at 
 ast, then gieen colour, upon which their good appearance 
 
 Tends, but also much of their taste an'd nujive pro- 
 
 rties. They should be also boiled alone: for when 
 
218 
 
 GREEN VEGETABLES.— CABBAGE. 
 
 boiled with meat or bacon they are usually more or less 
 discoloured and greasy; they also too often thus lose their 
 peculiar taste. It is scarcely necessary to remind the cook 
 that whatever scum arises during their boiling should be 
 carefully taken off. The quicker too, in general, that 
 vegetables boil the better will their colour be preserved; 
 simmering them is every way bad. Some, to preserve or 
 improve their colour, will add, during their boiling, an 
 alkaline salt, such as carbonate of potash,* in small quan¬ 
 tity, which, although perfectly w'holesome, is not necessary, 
 if the boiling be properly conducted. 
 
 The vegetables usually employed in cookery, as we have 
 seen from the preceding articles, consist of a large portion 
 of starch ; and, although few of those wdiich we shall 
 have occasion in this chapter subsequently to mention have 
 been subjected to correct analysis, we have every reason 
 to conclude that starch enters largely into the composition 
 of most, if not of all, of them. And when we know that 
 starch dissolves in boiling water very readily, being de¬ 
 tached from any vegetable in which it is found, we arrive 
 at the conclusion that, even w T hen in the vessels of vegeta¬ 
 bles, long boiling will more or less abstract it as well as 
 other nutritive matter: long boiling , that is, boiling more 
 than sufficient to make them tender, eatable, ought always 
 to be avoided. 
 
 It should also be observed, in regard to the Cabbage 
 tribe of esculent vegetables in particular, that the water 
 in which they have been boiled very soon becomes pu¬ 
 trescent, nay putrid, so as to be extremely offensive, 
 particularly in its smell; and that, hence, it is necessary 
 such water should be, as soon as possible, not only 7 thrown 
 away, but that every vestige of it should be also washed 
 away tvith plenty of cold water from the drains or other 
 outlets of the kitchen. The cause of this peculiarity in 
 decoctions of the cabbage tribe does not even now appear 
 well understood; the fact is undoubted.f We cannot, 
 
 * In common language salt of tartar. 
 
 t Dr Lewis, than whom, jierhaps, a more correct observei 
 concerning the properties of vegetables has been rarely found, 
 says that, as cabbages have a strong tendency to putrefaction 
 running into this state sooner than almost any other vegetable 
 

 219 
 
 CABBAGE.— KIDNEY BEANS. 
 
 therefore, recommend the employment of such liquor as 
 food or as a vehicle for food under any circumstances. 
 Hence it is not judicious to boil cabbage, nor indeed any 
 other greens, with animal food when the liquor is designed 
 afterwards to be used as broth. We fear, however, that 
 some economists still boil cabbage with meat: a cabbage- 
 net being a sort of necessary appendage to the cooking- 
 apparatus. 
 
 KIDNEY BEANS are the unripe pods of the phaseohts 
 vulgaris, or Dwarf Kidney Bean, an annual plant, 
 native of India; and also of the phaseolus multiflorus, or 
 Running Kidney Bean, a native of South America : 
 the first has been known in this country from or before 
 the commencement of the year 1600 ; the last from 1633. 
 iWhen they are young, and capable of being broken readily 
 in two, they merely require to be slit down the middle 
 both ends being cut off, and then sliced into two or more 
 pieces; but if they are older, the hard string of each side 
 must be stripped off before they are submitted to the 
 aperation of boiling. Some let them, after being thus 
 prepared, soak in salt and water for some time ; but if 
 Key are fresh-gathered and crisp, this is not necessary; 
 aor do we see how salt can be necessary to their soaking 
 fet all: a little salt in their boiling may, however, sometimes 
 
 t does not seem irrational to presume that they may be the most 
 nutritious of the oleraceous herbs, and the least remote from the 
 nature of animal food.— Materia Medica, vol. i. p. 237. M. Morin 
 says that cabbage “ Porte avec elle un principe extremement acre 
 }u’il convient de faire disparaitre en jetant la premiere eau dans 
 aquelle on la fait cuire. Quoi qu’il en soit, il faut avoir bon 
 Jstomac pour manger les choux.”— Manuel de Hygiene. Doctors 
 iiffer, as we see. We think that cabbage in any state of growth, 
 > Ind made tender by boiling, but more especially young cabbage, 
 >eing also well drained or well pressed from the water in which it 
 s boiled, is at once both nutritious and wholesome : it will very 
 iiften agree even with the dyspeptic. What M. Morin means by 
 ‘ un principe extremement acre,” an extremely acrid principle, 
 ve do not know ; it is much more likely to be, according to Lewis, 
 ome body very analogous to animal matter, and which the mere 
 leat of boiling water sends at once into the putrid fermentation. 
 Sir Humphry Davy (Elements of Agricultural Chemistry) states 
 hat the whole quantity of nutritive matter in one thousand 
 ■arts of cabbage is only seventy-three parts ; of which, forty-one 
 iarts are starch, twenty-four sugar, and eight are gluten. 
 
 L 2 
 
 
220 KIDNEY BEANS. — CAULIFLOWERS. 
 
 be of service; when they are tender they are sufficiently 
 done. Melted butter is the common accompaniment to 
 them; some persons, however, like them with plain vinegar 
 only. In every way the pods, when young , if not spoiled 
 in dressing or with too many condiments, are unquestionably 
 a wholesome food. The dry ripe bean is rarely, if ever, 
 eaten in this country; and it is at no time a vdiolesome 
 food. We knew a young 1 man who lost his life by acci¬ 
 dentally swallowing one wdiole: it expanded in some part 
 of the intestinal canal so much as to produce an obstruction 
 of •which he died. 
 
 Note, that the French call the kidney bean haricot; 
 and in this country almost every hodge-podge of boiled 
 vegetables, without even one solitary kidney bean, is called, 
 very improperly, Haricot. 
 
 FRENCH BEANS A LA CREME are prepared by 
 being first cut into small slices and then boiled in water 
 with some salt; when they are done, let them be drained 
 dry. Put now r into a stewpan some fresh butter, the yolks 
 of some eggs w T ell beaten up in a gill of cream, and set 
 the mixture over a slow fire; when hot, put in a table 
 spoonful of vinegar and the beans ; let the whole simmer 
 together for about five minutes: observe that the whole 
 must be constantly stirred with a wooden spoon, to prevent 
 its burning or curdling. 
 
 Note .—This is one of those unwholesome dishes against 
 which we have throughout our work constantly protested. 
 Cream and eggs and vinegar! We pity the cook who 
 cannot invent better dishes than such as these : we wonder 
 the inventor of this dish did not add some flour to it, in 
 order to make it still more offensive to the stomach ! 
 
 CAULIFLOWERS and BROCOLI are both varieties 
 of the brassica oleracea, or Cabbage, so well knowui 
 and so extensively eaten in this country: by some naturalists 
 both the cauliflower and brocoli are esteemed the mere 
 results of long cultivation of the cabbage; but the more 
 probable history is that the cauliflower, at least, w r as for¬ 
 merly obtained from Candia., where it is said to be a native. 
 Perhaps in no part of our island are the heads of these 
 plants produced in such perfection as in the gardens around 
 London. They appear to consist chiefly of starch, and 
 
BROCOLI.— CABBAGE. 
 
 221 
 
 are a very wholesome vegetable dish. They are boiled so 
 easily that no directions after those which have been given 
 generally for greens above are necessary. It is, however, 
 usual in preparing 
 
 CAULIFLOWERS FOR BOILING, to cut off the 
 leaves around the head except a few bits next the flower, 
 and to leave only so much of the stalk as will retain the 
 head as one, and then to boil the whole in water, with a little 
 salt, till it is tender; if, however, the head should he very 
 large, the best way will be to separate all the leaves entirely, 
 and the stalk close to the head, which may be divided into 
 two or four, according to its size, upon which the time of 
 boiling must depend. Small ones may be done in fifteen 
 minutes; some will require nearly twice that time. Or 
 they may be sent to table as a sort of stew, by melting butter, 
 adding a little pepper and salt in a stewpan, and then 
 putting in half of your already boiled cauliflower cut as for 
 pickling; let them then stew ten minutes ; lay the stewed ones 
 in the middle of the dish, the boiled ones around it, and 
 let the butter in which they were stewed be poured over the 
 whole. Melted butter is the only necessary sauce to this 
 dish. 
 
 BOILED BROCOLI may he treated similarly to cauli¬ 
 flowers above. To make it a supper dish, a more elegant 
 way will be to strip off all the little branches till you come 
 to the top one, and then peel off the hard outside skin on the 
 stalks as well as on the little branches, and put the whole 
 into water. Then set some water with a little salt on the 
 fire, and when it boils put in the brocoli, which, -when tender, 
 will be done. It should be served up similarly to asparagus, 
 namely, with a piece of toasted bread on which lay your 
 brocoli and over which you may pour some melted butter; 
 some may be also sent up separately in a boat. 
 
 CABBAGE constitutes an extensive species of plants, 
 all the varieties from which are said to be derived from the 
 original wild plant the Brassica oleracea which grows 
 wild on the cliffs of the sea-side in Kent, Cornwall, York¬ 
 shire, and Wales. Cabbages with heads are known under 
 various names, those without under the names of coleworts 
 and kales. They are all, however, biennial plants. See 
 Cauliflower. Two are chiefly distinguished, the white Cab - 
 
222 
 
 CABBAGE.-SPINACH. 
 
 bage, the heads of which are fit for being eaten in the 
 spring and summer ; and the Savoys, wffiich are a useful 
 winter food. Of the nutritive properties of all the tribe, 
 nothing more needs to be said; the reader is, therefore, 
 referred to the General Directions and a note above at pages 
 218, 219 ; see also the Family Cyclopaedia article Cabbage. 
 
 FOR BOILED CABBAGE the reader may also consult 
 the general directions; but v/e may just observe here that 
 large cabbages will be best boiled by being cut into four 
 parts at least; care should always be taken that, in what¬ 
 ever way it is boiled, it ought to have the water carefully 
 drained from it before it is served up. Melted butter, as 
 for cauliflower, is the usual accompaniment, but there are 
 not wanting persons who prefer simple vinegar to every 
 other condiment or sauce for cabbage. 
 
 In regard to converting cabbage into a variety of other 
 dishes it will be sufficient to observe that, in w-hatever 
 way it is employed as food, (except the red-cabbage for 
 pickling, and other Cabbage—as sour-crout, both which 
 see under Pickles,) it will be always most advisable that 
 it should be boiled first, and that the water be invariably 
 thrown away. For Fried-Cabbage, see page 77. 
 
 SPINACH is the green and tender leaves of the 
 Spinachia oleracea, or Spinach, an annual plant, the 
 native country of which is not exactly known ; but supposed 
 to be Asia; it has been know-n to this country for more 
 than 250 years. There are several varieties ; with manage¬ 
 ment, spinach may be obtained at every season of the year. 
 The nutritive properties of spinach are similar to those of 
 cabbage, but certainly not superior to that article. 
 
 TO BOIL SPINACH. The directions in most of our 
 old Cookery Books, from Mrs. Glasse even to the present 
 century, are that spinach should be put into a saucepan and 
 stewed without water till it is tender ; but the good sense 
 of the present time has adopted the practice (after washing 
 it in a great many waters to render it perfectly free from 
 impurities) of boiling it in plenty of water and some salt. 
 Ten minutes will in general be sufficient for it, unless the 
 quantity be very large, or it be old, then, of course, more 
 time must be given it. When it is done, let it be well 
 drained and squeezed as dry as possible between plates or 
 
SPINACH.-ASPARAGUS. 223 
 
 trenchers; chop it fine, cut it into squares and send it to 
 table. Its proper accompaniment is melted butter. 
 
 Note, some will mix with it cream or rich gravy ; others 
 grated nutmeg, mace, or lemon-juice. But we advise none 
 of these condiments. 
 
 SPINACH AND EGGS consist of a poached egg served 
 up on each square of boiled spinach, as above. Some add 
 to the spinach, after being boiled and the water pressed from 
 it, a little butter. Garnish with slices of lemon or barberries, 
 not orange as some Cookery Books direct. Melted butter 
 of course. 
 
 ASPARAGUS is the young shoots of the asparagus 
 officinalis, a perennial plant growing wild in various places 
 near the sea-shore in this country, where it is very diminu¬ 
 tive ; the large shoots as we find them in the garden are 
 entirely the result of cultivation. Asparagus is at once a 
 nutritious and a pleasant delicacy. 
 
 TO BOIL ASPARAGUS. If your asparagus he fresh 
 cut from the garden it will need no previous soaking in 
 water ; but if it be obtained from the market or the green¬ 
 grocer, is should be soaked in water for an hour or more 
 before it is prepared for boiling : scrape off carefully 
 from the white part of the shoots all the dead skin which 
 surrounds them ; cut them all as nearly as possible of the 
 same length, and throw them into cold water. Get ready 
 a saucepan, or in preference a stewpan (where there is less 
 danger of the heads being broken,) of boiling water; tie 
 the asparagus in small bundles and put them into the boiling- 
 water, to which must be added a little salt. When they 
 are tender, they will be done. You must take care not 
 to boil them too much : for, thus, both their taste and 
 | colour will be destroyed. Some small heads may be done 
 [ in fifteen minutes; some will require twenty, and large 
 u ones even thirty. Toast some bread on both sides; let the 
 round be sufficiently large to receive your asparagus in a 
 handsome manner: the crust should be cut off. Dip the 
 toast in the water in which the asparagus has been boiled, 
 cut it in long squares, place it in your dish and pour some 
 melted butter on it, then lay the asparagus carefully on the 
 toast so as not to break the heads. Over which some will 
 
224 LEEKS.-SEA KALE. — ARTICHOKES. 
 
 pour melted butter; but others prefer its being sent up in a 
 boat. 
 
 Note. —The asparagus should not only be boiled in 
 plenty of water, but it should be carefully skimmed during 
 its boiling. 
 
 LEEKS have been already alluded to as a condiment. 
 And again as a made-dish, page 95; it may be useful 
 here to observe that they are often eaten in the winter and 
 early spring, as a substantial dish, instead of other vegetables, 
 when they are blanched similarly to celery, and, after being- 
 deprived of the greatest part of their green leaves, or at 
 least of their tops, are boiled till they are tender. To per¬ 
 sons who dislike their very strong and peculiar taste, they 
 may be rendered much more mild by being boiled in water 
 till they are three-fourths done, the water then thrown 
 away and fresh boiling water added to them to complete 
 their dressing. Thus prepared, they are as wholesome as 
 cabbage ; and, of course, form a variety which, to many 
 persons, is very agreeable. They may be eaten with almost 
 any meat; some prefer them as a supper dish. In the 
 West of England they are more particularly accompanied 
 with boiled bacon; long leeks and bacon are there well- 
 known. Melted butter maybe their accompaniment; but 
 some prefer simple vinegar to any other condiment. 
 
 SEA KALE is the blanched shoots of the crambe mari- 
 tima, a perennial plant which grows wild on the sandy 
 sea-coast of various parts of this country, whence it has 
 been transplanted to our gardens. It is a wholesome food, 
 and being ready for eating before asparagus in the spring, 
 has an advantage over that; but it is more expensive and 
 troublesome to obtain; and will never, therefore, equal 
 asparagus as an article of general consumption. It is 
 dressed in precisely the same way as asparagus; which see. 
 
 ARTICHOKES are the unripe flower-heads of the 
 cynara scolymus, a perennial plant, a native of the south 
 of Europe, and known in this country from the year 1548. 
 As it is not a very common production of our gardens, 
 little needs to be said about it ; it is, however, considered 
 by some as a sort of luxury; but luxury apart, we believe 
 it will never be much sought after by wisdom or economy: 
 
CARDOONS.-VEGETABLE MARROW. 225 
 
 it is, nevertheless, when properly boiled, a wholesome food. 
 But we cannot think it deserves the eulogium of M. Morin, 
 that eaten raw with salt and pepper only, when young- and 
 very tender, it excites the appetite and stimulates the di¬ 
 gestive powers of the stomach.* 
 
 BOILED ARTICHOKES. Let them be soaked for 
 some time in cold water : after washing them well, nut 
 them into boiling water with plenty of salt in it; let them 
 boil from an hour and a half to two hours : if they should 
 be very young they will be done in less time. To know 
 when they are done, pull out one of the leaves of the head, 
 which, if it come out easily, proves that they are boiled 
 enough. Serve them up with melted butter in small cups, 
 one for each guest. 
 
 The CARDOON, we may just add here, is another of 
 the artichoke tribe, the cynara cardunculus, a perennial 
 riant, native of Candia, and has been known in this 
 pountry since the year 1658. The tender stalks of 
 its inner leaves, made white by being treated as celery, 
 are here only occasionally used for stewing and for soups 
 and salads, althoug-h in great request on the continent. 
 Cardoons are sometimes boiled as asparagus, and served 
 up in tbe same manner: indeed, there is scarcely any end 
 to their varying cookery among our neighbours. Their 
 nutritive properties are not of a very high order. See M. 
 Morin, Manuel d' Hygiene, page 69. 
 
 VEGETABLE MARROW is the fruit of the cucur- 
 bita succndo, an annual plant of the gourd tribe, and was 
 introduced into this country, during the present century, 
 ’rom Persia. It is useful for culinary purposes in every 
 stage of its growth: when very young it is good fried with 
 rutter ; when about half grown it is excellent, either plain 
 soiled or stewed with rich sauce; for both these purposes 
 t should be cut into slices. But the best practice is to 
 boil it in water with salt till it is tender; to press 
 it, and then serve it up, on slices of toast, with 
 welted butter. It is, as far as w-e have had an oppor¬ 
 tunity of observing it, a wholesome food; but we believe 
 
 * Manuel d’Hygiene, page 63. 
 
 L 3 
 
226 PUMPKINS. — CUCUMBERS. 
 
 that it will never enter largely into economical or family 
 cookery. 
 
 PUMPKINS are the ripe fruit of the cucurbita pepo, 
 an annual plant, a native of the Levant, and introduced 
 into this country in 1570 ; they are very easily raised, and 
 very productive. They constitute a coarse sort of food; 
 but when well boiled and not watery, they are equal in 
 nutritive properties to some esteemed vegetables. It is 
 usual to cut the heads into four or more parts, to take out 
 all the seeds and the fibrous matter with which they are 
 surrounded, and then to boil them in salt and water till the 
 pulp is tender. Some prefer eating the pulp off the shells; 
 others prefer all the water being pressed out of it, and then 
 to mix it with butter, pepper, and salt. In the west of 
 England the pumpkin is usually served up with salt-beef, 
 to which it forms an agreeable variety, instead of any other 
 vegetable. 
 
 The ORANGE GOURD is smaller in kind, but simi¬ 
 lar in quality to the pumpkin. 
 
 The CUCUMBER is the unripe fruit of the cucumis 
 sativus, an annual plant, a native of the East Indies, and 
 introduced into this country in 1573. There are several 
 varieties: those which are green, long, and prickly are 
 esteemed the best. Of the cucumber as an article of food 
 in any shape we cannot speak in commendation ; and least 
 of all when it is in the greatest plenty in this country. The 
 time of the year when it may be eaten with the least 
 injurious effects is from the early spring to the end of 
 June; after which time it is, from whatever cause, more 
 liable to injure the digestive functions, chiefly, perhaps, 
 from its acquiring more solidity; becoming more bellied 
 and yellow, and always, under such circumstances, more 
 tough and leathery. The dyspeptic should invariably avoid 
 cucumbers. 
 
 Cucumbers are usually, after being deprived of their 
 green rind, sliced thin, well peppered and salted, to which 
 are added sliced onions and a large portion of vinegar, to 
 which some add olive oil. These condiments certainly 
 make it a very agreeable dish; we wish we could say a 
 wholesome one. It is nevertheless unquestionably true, 
 
TURNIPS. 
 
 227 
 
 i 
 
 i 
 
 •<! 
 
 ii 
 
 II 
 
 
 that many persons can eat cucumbers with complete im¬ 
 punity ; yet we knew a lady, calculating upon such impu¬ 
 nity, who nearly lost her life by eating a large quantity of 
 them in the month of July. 
 
 Note .—That before a cucumber is eaten, care should be 
 taken, if it be not immediately cut from the garden, to soak 
 it in water for an hour or more before it is cut up ; this is 
 particularly necessary to be attended to when the cucumber 
 is bought in the market, at the green-grocer’s, or in the 
 street. Cucumbers with more or less yellow on them 
 should invariably be avoided. 
 
 TURNIPS are the bulbous roots of the brassica rnpa, 
 a biennial plant, growing wild in some parts of this country, 
 but cultivated extensively in gardens and fields for the food 
 of both man and beast. There are many varieties; the 
 early white Dutch is much esteemed. Notwithstanding 
 the agreeable flavour and wholesome properties of the tur¬ 
 nip ; notwithstanding it enters into our broths and soups, 
 and is brought to table on so many occasions, it neverthe¬ 
 less contains, according to the most accurate analysis of it, 
 a very scanty portion of nutritious matter; in 1000 
 parts only 42 parts are nutritive, of which 7 parts are 
 starch, 34 parts are sugar, and one gluten. It is, there¬ 
 fore, a vegetable which may be employed to impart a 
 pleasant flavour to food; but it is one which, without the 
 accompaniment of animal matter, must be held in low 
 estimation. Taken in moderate quantity it seems to agree 
 with most stomachs. Turnip tops, which are the young 
 shoots of the second year, when boiled tender are by many 
 esteemed; they are of about the same importance as the 
 young shoots of cabbage, but hardly so good, as they often 
 possess a bitterness which to many is disagreeable. 
 
 BOILED TURNIPS are by many most esteemed when 
 dressed in the same vessel with the meat; boiled mutton in 
 particular seems to require turnips as a constant vegetable 
 attendant. Some serve them up in a separate dish, and as 
 they have been boiled; others mash them by pressing out 
 the water, and then mixing* with them a little butter and 
 salt, to which some will add cream, pepper, &c. Melted 
 butter is always a useful addition to turnips. 
 
 Note .—Care should always be taken in choosing turnips, 
 
228 
 
 CARROTS. 
 
 that they are young and tender ; for when too old they 
 neither boil well nor are they proper to be eaten. They 
 w r ill keep a great while out of the ground; but they 
 should be always soaked well in water before being set 
 to boil. The exterior rind should always also be carefully 
 taken off. 
 
 Turnips are cooked in various other ways: some even 
 make them into soup; but, without animal matter, such 
 soup is good for little. 
 
 CARROTS are the roots of the daucus carota, a bien¬ 
 nial plant, cultivated in our gardens ; it is found growing- 
 wild in almost every meadow in this country; the differences 
 between the wild and cultivated carrot consisting chiefly in 
 the small woody nature of the wild root, and the superior 
 pungency of the wild seed ; the wild root is also whitish in 
 colour, while that of the cultivated carrot is of a reddish 
 yellow, more or less deep, or of a straw colour. There 
 are several varieties of the cultivated carrot; one red, 
 which is said to be cultivated chiefly by the farmers for 
 colouring their butter; a silly and useless practice ; what 
 is called the orange carrot is most esteemed. The charac¬ 
 teristic of a good carrot is its breaking short and at once 
 without the appearance of any tough or woody fibres. 
 Carrots contain considerably more nutrition than turnips: 
 in 1000 parts 98 are nutritive matter, of which three only 
 are starch, and 95 are sugar. When properly boiled and 
 not at all woody, they agree with the generality of stomachs. 
 They are frequently employed in our soups and stews, and 
 are also served up as a sepai-ate dish : to boiled beef they 
 are a very common accompaniment. 
 
 BOILED CARROTS. Let them be scraped clean, 
 and if very large and long they may be cut longitudinally 
 in two as well as transversely; but they look best when 
 served up whole; before doing which, after boiling, they 
 should be deprived of their outside skin by being rubbed in 
 a clean cloth. Some serve them up sliced with melted 
 butter poured over them; but this we do not approve. 
 Their time of boiling must depend upon their size ; they 
 will in general require from half an hour to an hour or 
 more ; but if small and very young a less time. 
 
 Note.—A s carrots keep a long time out of the ground 
 
PARSNIPS.— BEET. 229 
 
 without spoiling, they should be always well soaked in 
 water before being- set to boil. 
 
 PARSNIPS are the roots of the pastinaca sativa, 
 a biennial plant, cultivated in gardens; it is, like the car¬ 
 rot, found also growing wild in almost every meadow: 
 the cultivated parsnip differs from the wild chiefly in the 
 size and nature of its root. There are several cultivated 
 varieties of the parsnip ; but only one much known in this 
 country. In one thousand parts ninety-nine are nutritive, 
 of which nine parts are starch and ninety sugar; hence 
 there is no difficulty in presuming that from the parsnip 
 8;as well as the carrot a spirit may be obtained ; and from 
 both of these roots it is now occasionally procured. Pars¬ 
 nips being so similar in their properties to carrots, there is 
 • little occasion to say more about them; but as they will 
 ikeep well either in or out of the ground, when they are 
 not fresh dug up they should be soaked for some time in 
 iwater before being set to boil. They are sometimes served 
 up as a dish with salt beef. They are boiled and otherwise 
 treated exactly as carrots. Melted butter is their usual 
 accompaniment. See ('arrots above. 
 
 BEET is the root of the beta vulgaris or red beet , 
 a biennial plant, and native of the sea-coasts of the south 
 of Europe but cultivated in our gardens and fields. There 
 are several varieties, all of which appear to possess similar 
 properties: of one thousand parts of red beet, one hundred 
 and forty-eight are nutritive matter; of these fourteen are 
 starch, one hundred and twenty-one sugar, and fourteen 
 parts are gluten: hence the beets are much more nutri¬ 
 tious than either carrots, parsnips, turnips, or cabbage. 
 From white beet a considerable portion of sugar has been 
 obtained in France. Red beet is not, therefore, so much 
 employed as a culinary vegetable as it deserves to be. It is 
 dressed in the same way as parsnips ; the root should be 
 boiled whole ; for if cut or broken the colour will escape ; 
 but it requires a good while to be boiled tender; some say 
 even three or more hours: the time must depend upon the 
 size of the root. When boiled and cut into slices, red beet 
 makes an excellent garnish. It is also sometimes pickled, 
 and sometimes stewed with onions. It is also sometimes 
 baked instead of being boiled. 
 
230 JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, MUSHROOMS. 
 
 Note, that the French direct the beet root to be either 
 boiled or baked. They also make a fricassee of it, thus: 
 put the root (sliced of course) into a stewpan, with some 
 butter, parsley, minced ciboules or onions, a little garlic, 
 flour, sufficient vinegar, salt, and pepper: boil the whole 
 a quarter of an hour.* 
 
 THE LEAVES OF SEA BEET, beta maritima, a na¬ 
 tive of our own sea-coast, may be used as an agreeable 
 variety of greens. As well as may also the stalks and the 
 middle part of the leaves of the Mangel Wurzel, 
 (a variety of the beta cicla ,) be stewed or eaten plain- 
 boiled as asparagus, in which state it is called chard. 
 
 SKIRRETS are the roots of a perennial plant, the 
 sium sisarum, a native of China, but known in this 
 country since 1548. The tubers are boiled and eaten, 
 or made into a sort of stew, with cream, butter, &c.; but 
 modern cookery pays little attention to this old-fashioned 
 root: as good, we suppose, as many similar saccharine 
 roots. See page 112. 
 
 JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES are the tuberous roots 
 of the helianthus tuberosus, a sort of sun-flower; it is a pe¬ 
 rennial plant, and a native of Brasil, whence it was brought 
 to this country in 1617. They are esteemed a nutritious 
 food, and dressed in the same manner as potatoes; but 
 they are, nevertheless, in no great request. Melted butter, 
 with which they may be also mashed, is their best accom¬ 
 paniment. 
 
 MUSHROOMS are well-known vegetables, found grow¬ 
 ing in meadows and pastures during- the summer months 
 in this country. There are several kinds, most of which 
 are more or less poisonous; those which are least so are 
 the agaricus campestris, or common and cultivated mush¬ 
 room, distinguished by fine pink or flesh-coloured gills, 
 which are covered, when young, with a white skin : this 
 mushroom has also a peculiar smell by which it is distin¬ 
 guished from most of the other species. There is also the 
 agaricus pratensis or champignon, frequent in heaths and 
 pastures, and much smaller than the preceding; it is 
 considered equally wholesome with the common mushroom. 
 
 * Cuisiniere Bourgeoise, page 200. Paris, 1830. 
 
231 
 
 MUSHROOMS, HOPS, SALADS. 
 
 Loudon, indeed, in his Encyclopedia of Gardening , 
 enumerates many other mushrooms, which are considered 
 good: but we advise the cook, if mushrooms are to be 
 eaten, to confine herself to the employment of the two 
 species which we have mentioned, and these will be found 
 the most wholesome, if taken from their natural places , 
 in the open fields or heath. Those which grow in the 
 shade are invariably to be avoided, as well as all those 
 which have not been freshly gathered; mushrooms soon go, 
 after being gathered, into the putrid fermentation. For 
 further particulars concerning mushrooms see the Family 
 Cyclopaedia, article Mushroom. 
 
 BROILED MUSHROOMS. Remove the stems which 
 may be converted into catchup, and take off the outside 
 skins of the heads; pepper and salt the gills, into which 
 put a lump of butter, and lay the heads upside down upon 
 the gridiron placed over a brisk fire ; broil them for a few 
 minutes and they will be done. Serve them up with good 
 gravy. 
 
 Some enclose the heads, well-cleaned and skinned, in a 
 case of writing paper w r ell buttered on the inside; season 
 them with pepper and salt, and put them on a baking plate 
 over a slow fire with a stewpot cover, with some fire on it: 
 when the mushrooms are nearly dry, they must be served 
 up very hot. 
 
 Note , some, after thus broiling them, will stew them in 
 water sufficient to cover them, to which are added a little 
 wine and vinegar. 
 
 HOPS wall be spoken of more particularly under Brew¬ 
 ing ; it is only necessary to observe here that many persons 
 living in the country, dress the tender tops of the plant 
 similarly to those of asparagus; under the name of hop- 
 tops they form, a pleasant dish. 
 
 SALADS are too well known to need any description. 
 They form, more especially in the spring and early sum¬ 
 mer months, an agreeable variety in our food. Some are, 
 however, mifeh more suitable to the stomach than others. 
 The shoots of shalots, chives, and others of the onion 
 tribe, as well as young onions themselves, are very often 
 eaten as salad when mixed with others, such as the lettuce, 
 mustard, pepper-cress, &c. Yet all the onion tribe pro- 
 
232 
 
 WATER CRESSES. — RADISHES. 
 
 duce, in many stomachs, heat and other dyspeptic symp¬ 
 toms : where such are the consequences of their being 
 taken they ought to be avoided ; see page 190. Beet root 
 is also occasionally used as a salad: see Beet Root 
 above. 
 
 Of the condiments employed with salads, we consider 
 vinegar and salt by far the best: the practice of mixing- 
 hard-boiled eggs with them is decidedly bad and to be 
 avoided ; nor do we much commend their admixture with 
 olive oil; melted butter is also sometimes added to them: 
 the epicurean may admire it, but the simple in sauces and 
 in food, will find it best to avoid such oleous, and, in too 
 many instances, unwholesome excitements of the appetite. 
 
 WATER CRESSES, the product of the nasturtium 
 officinale, a perennial plant, growing in ditches and run¬ 
 ning streams, in almost every part of this country, are 
 too well known to need description ; they are in London 
 very common attendants at our breakfast tables, and are, 
 we believe, a very wholesome salad ; but those who expect 
 by the constant use of them, to derive any advantages 
 from them as medicinal plants will be disappointed. Care 
 should always be taken that they are well cleansed from 
 every impurity before they are eaten: those with brown 
 leaves are more wholesome than those which are of a pale 
 green. 
 
 RADISHES are the roots of the raphanus satiinis, 
 an annual plant, native of China, and known in this coun¬ 
 try as early as the year 1584. The seedling leaves form 
 a pleasant salad when eaten alone or mixed with mustard 
 or pepper-cress. The roots, of which there are three 
 chief varieties, namely, the red long root, the white tur¬ 
 nip rooted, and the black Spanish , are all eaten as salad. 
 The two first are in most request. The turnip-rooted radish 
 is the most mild, and therefore best suited to dyspeptic 
 stomachs with which the red radish very often disagrees. 
 Radishes of every kind appear best for salad in the spring- 
 months. Care should be taken that they are well soaked, 
 and afterwards well washed in w y ater before they are 
 brought to table, and that they are young and tender; 
 those which are woody and hot in the mouth should be 
 avoided ; they should, if fresh gathered, be also brought 
 
LETTUCE, ENDIVE, SORREL. 233 
 
 to table with more green leaves attached to them than we 
 usually find : for such leaves, if tender, form themselves a 
 pleasant salad. 
 
 THE LETTUCE is an important plant, and perhaps the 
 most wholesome of all the vegetables employed as salad. 
 It is a hardy annual, the lactuca sativa, and known in 
 this country since the year 1562 ; but whether brought 
 from some foreign country or a variety of some of our 
 native lettuces is not known. It contains a milky juice, 
 from which has been obtained an extract that has pro¬ 
 perties very similar to opium : hence the soothing qualities 
 of lettuce when eaten at night. There are almost innu¬ 
 merable varieties of the lettuce: those called cos lettuces 
 are much esteemed. Of this useful plant it is not necessary 
 to say more than that we have never known it to disagree 
 iwith any stomach, and, therefore, particularly in the spring, 
 it is a salad which we can confidently recommend. It is 
 sometimes boiled in soup; but we know nothing of its 
 qualities thus employed. It is almost superfluous to add 
 that care should be taken, when it is eaten, that it is fresh 
 and sweet and well freed from every impurity by ablution 
 in water. 
 
 ENDIVE is also another pleasant salad, but by no 
 means equal to the lettuce. It is an annual, the cichorium 
 endivict, a native of China, and known in this country 
 since the year 1548 : there are several varieties. 
 
 WHITE MUSTARD has been mentioned in p. 190. 
 The green seed leaves are the parts of this plant employed 
 as a salad ; and those are best and most wholesome w T hen 
 raised in the open garden in the spring. 
 
 PEPPER CRESS, or GARDEN CRESS, is an 
 annual plant,' the lepidium sativum, known in this country 
 since the year 1548 ; but from w r hat country is not known. 
 There are several varieties. It is a pleasant salad, if cut 
 jwhile yet its seed leaf remains tender; but it is never¬ 
 theless, like most other salads, in the greatest perfection 
 in the spring. 
 
 SORREL, or WOOD SORREL, the leaves of the 
 )xalis acetosella, an indigenous perennial plant, found in 
 woods and various other places in this country, may be 
 also mentioned as a pleasant addition to salads; but it is 
 
234 
 
 SALADS.— TEA. 
 
 not of much importance, although its acid juice is occa¬ 
 sionally employed for taking out iron-moulds from linen. 
 
 Many other native vegetables may be mentioned as 
 occasionally furnishing salads ; one, the Dandelion, a 
 perennial plant, the leontodon taraxacum, growing almost 
 every where in this country, is used in London mixed with 
 other salads ; but it is no way of much consequence. 
 
 Having disposed of the most important vegetables, as 
 food for man, except Fruits, which will have a more 
 appropriate place in the subsequent portion of our work, 
 there yet remain a few articles which are too important, as 
 food, wholly to be passed over; they are the following: — 
 
 TEA is the dried leaves of several species of the genus 
 Camellia; but the chief tea of commerce is the production 
 of the Camellia bohea, or Bohea Camellia, and of 
 the Camellia viridis, or Green Tea Camellia, both 
 natives of China; and from w T hich country the tea of 
 commerce is obtained. They are both evergreen shrubs, 
 having somewhat spear-shaped leaves. From an analysis of 
 tea, made some time since, at the Royal Institution, it appears 
 that nearly half the weight of tea is soluble in boiling 
 water, and that a considerable portion of this soluble matter 
 consists of tannin. (See Tannin, page 200.) Notwith¬ 
 standing- that there is such a strong aroma emitted by tea, 
 it does not appear that any essential oil can be obtained 
 from it by distillation. It is hinted at, in the account of 
 these experiments, that the noxious effects of tea might 
 be referable to the volatile and odorous principle, whatever 
 it is; and that those who suffer any inconvenience from 
 tea would find it best to boil the tea in water for a few 
 minutes, in order that the fragrant principle might be 
 dissipated. It is said that the green and black teas are 
 both obtained from the same plant; and that the difference 
 between them consists in the different methods in which 
 they are prepared: this is, however, questionable. Some 
 persons have supposed that the green colour of tea was 
 produced by a slight admixture of copper; but we are 
 assured that not the least particle of that metal can be 
 detected in green tea of any kind. 
 
 The earliest importation of tea into Europe is said to 
 have been by a Dutch merchant in 1610 : the time of its first 
 
introduction into England is not known; yet in 1666 a 
 few pounds of tea were presented to Charles II. as a 
 valuable gift. The first importation of tea by the East 
 India Company w r as in 1669. 
 
 Whatever may be the inconvenience experienced by an 
 
 ( individual now and then from the use of tea, most certain 
 it is that, to a very large portion of the inhabitants of this 
 country, tea forms at once an agreeable, wholesome, and 
 moderately exciting beverage. So far are we from thinking’ 
 it injurious, that we believe the stronger it in general is 
 the better it will be found to agree with the stomach. We 
 see no solid objection to its being drunk with a moderate 
 portion of sugar and milk ; but cream, how much soever 
 it may please the palate, will occasionally render the tea 
 less wholesome by producing some disturbance in the 
 'stomach: cream, therefore, with tea for the dyspeptic 
 should be avoided. As boiling water extracts the principal 
 virtues of tea, an infusion only of boiling water on it is 
 necessary; but there is a practice among many or most 
 of our tea-cooks which should be avoided, namely, that of 
 pouring into the tea-pot on the tea a small quantity only 
 of boiling water, and after it has infused some time the 
 pot is then filled up. Instead of this, the pot containing 
 the tea should be filled with boiling water at once ; the 
 heat is thus most effectually applied. An impression is 
 also abroad that metallic tea-pots are better than those of 
 earthenware ; they feel hotter externally of course: but 
 all metallic bodies are better conductors of heat than 
 earthenware, and therefore not so well suited for making 
 tea as earthenware pots are, such as those made of what 
 is called Wedgewood’s ware. This is, we are aware, in 
 direct opposition to Dr. Kitciiiner ; but we are quite 
 willing to abide the result of experience. 
 
 We are loth to quit the subject of tea without laying 
 before the reader Cowper’s beautiful lines on that afternoon 
 beverage in a winter evening:— 
 
 i % 
 
 “ Now stir the fire, and close the shutters fast. 
 
 Let fall the curtains, wheel the sofa round. 
 
 And, while the bubbling and loud hissing urn 
 Throws up a steamy column, and the cups 
 That cheer but not inebriate, wait on each ; 
 
 So let us welcome peaceful evening in.”— Task, hook iv. 
 
236 
 
 COFFEE.— ROASTED CORN. 
 
 1 
 
 COFFEE is the seeds of an evergreen shrub, the Coffea 
 Arabica, cultivated in hot climates: it is brought to this 
 country chiefly from Arabia and the East and West Indies: 
 that from Arabia, called Mocha coffee, is the best. Coffee 
 was unknown to the Greeks and Romans ; its use is said 
 to have originated in Ethiopia. It was introduced into 
 England in the year 1652. The coffee shrub was first 
 planted in Jamaica in 1730. 
 
 Coffee is consumed in large quantities in this country ; 
 and to the robust and healthy it forms a pleasant variety in 
 our food: but, notwithstanding some writers contend for the 
 useful medicinal properties of coffee we beg leave to repeat 
 concerning it what we have stated in the Family Cyclo¬ 
 pedia, namely, that “ a burnt vegetable containing a 
 portion, however small, of oil, which has become more or 
 less acid or rancid by heat can suit few stomachs where 
 debility is present; and we fear that the addition of sugar 
 and cream to the decoction, under such circumstances, is 
 only calculated to increase the mischief.” 
 
 Coffee has been often imitated. At the present time 
 wheat (and, perhaps, some other corn, such as rye) is 
 roasted and sold under the name of roasted corn; the same 
 objections apply to it as to coffee for the dyspeptic, except 
 that, as it very probably contains less oil, it might suit the 
 stomach better than coffee, both which require to be boiled, 
 in order that their virtues may be completely extracted. 
 Coffee is employed by the French in a much stronger decoc¬ 
 tion than it is in this country; but, notwithstanding fashion 
 may advocate strong coffee, (Kitchiner says you ought 
 to take an ounce of it for two breakfast cups !) we advise no 
 such extravagance ; but rather refer to M. Morin, Manuel 
 d'Hygiene, who says, “ whatever may be its action on the 
 stomach, it is with coffee as with every thing else, we 
 should use but not abuse it.”* Tea is, beyond question, a 
 much more wholesome beverage than coffee for the gene¬ 
 rality of Englishmen. 
 
 • Quelle que soit son action sur 1’estomac, il en est du cafe 
 comme de toute autre chose, il faut en user et ne pas en 
 abuser. 
 

 CHOCOLATE AND COCOA. 237 
 
 CHOCOLATE and COCOA. The Chocolate tree, the 
 Theobroma cacao is a native of South America; it pro¬ 
 duces a fruit resembling a cucumber'in shape ; when ripe 
 it is a bluish red with pink veins. Each fruit or pod con¬ 
 tains from twenty to thirty brown nuts or kernels in shape 
 somewhat like an almond, but thicker and broader ; these 
 are the chocolate nuts , which, after being roasted or parched, 
 are pounded or ground into a paste with some aromatics, 
 and, it is said, soap; and, thus the chocolate of the shops is 
 found formed into cakes. The cocoa nuts, themselves, are 
 now also to be obtained in the shops ground similarly to 
 coffee, with which a sort of chocolate may be made. The 
 nuts contain a considerable portion of a white oily matter 
 Which when obtained from them by boiling is about the 
 consistence of suet. From the shells of the cocoa nuts is 
 also prepared with, perhaps, a portion of the nut itself 
 the substance obtained in the shops called cocoa. 
 
 From this account of these substances it is clear that they 
 all contain, especially the two first, namely, chocolate and 
 cocoa nuts, considerable nutritive properties ; but they con¬ 
 tain so much oil, not certainly improved by the heat em¬ 
 ployed, as to render them very unsuitable for almost all 
 dyspeptic stomachs, and hence they should, by persons 
 having such stomachs, be avoided. Weak cocoa may be, 
 however, occasionally employed as a variety at the break¬ 
 fast table, by the dyspeptic, with some advantage. 
 
 Chocolate is usually served up well frothed, in order to 
 disguise the oil with which it abounds, and for this purpose 
 the soap, mentioned above, is supposed to be added. We 
 cannot conclude these observations on chocolate without re¬ 
 marking that it contains, in all probability, a certain portion 
 of iron which may be beneficial as an astringent stimulant in 
 some cases of debility; but we knew a lady who, on recover¬ 
 ing from a long fit of illness, took it for sometime in strong 
 doses every morning for breakfast; it was found to produce 
 such hard lumps in the intestines that she was obliged to 
 have recourse to glysters to remove them; and indeed, she 
 suffered so much from the chocolate breakfast that she was 
 at length obliged to leave it off entirely, nutritious to her as 
 it eminently was. 
 
238 OBSERVATIONS ON VEGETABLES. 
 
 Note that some of our dried English herbs, as balm, 
 are occasionally employed as tea, to this we see no objec¬ 
 tion. See also Ginger, page 188, and Sage, page 191. 
 
 CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS ON VEGETA¬ 
 BLES. From what has been said, on this important chap¬ 
 ter of our work, it will be, we believe, pretty evident that 
 those plants which afford the most starch will, in general, 
 be found the most easy of digestion; that is, which pro¬ 
 duce the least, if any, inconvenience in the stomach; but 
 wheat, in this respect, forms a remarkable exception: 
 for, although the most nutritious of vegetables, its large 
 portion of gluten demands peculiar preparation before it 
 becomes fit to be submitted to the process of digestion. See ' 
 that article above. And we trust that every one will 
 become impressed with the following truth in regard to 
 cookery, eating and digestion, namely, “ that it is not 
 what we eat which nourishes, but what we well digest; that 
 nothing has so much influence on the moral conduct of an 
 individual, whoever he may be, as the manner in which 
 digestion is performed.”* This may be a startling truth to 
 many persons ; but it will be found, nevertheless, correct 
 and deserving the most serious attention of every son and 
 daughter of Adam. Let those who doubt it consult, for a 
 moment, the different state of their feelings before and after 
 any repast; nay let them observe their mental processes 
 before and after having taken a glass of good and exhila¬ 
 rating wine. How many a master of a family has come 
 home, after the fatigue and annoyance of the business of the 
 day, peevish, fretful, and looking at every thing and every 
 body with the greatest distaste ; let the dinner pass, and if 
 he has been prudent in the gratification of his appetite, he 
 becomes another man ! Of this, too, we may be well assured, 
 that excessive or long continued hunger is destructive of 
 the social and moral feelings; while moderate hunger, and 
 of short duration, is, on the contrary, the best of all 
 
 * “ Ce n’est pas ce qu’on mange qui nourrit, mais bien ce que 
 l’on digere, et que rien n’influe autantsur le moral d’un individu, 
 quel qu’il soit, que la maniere dont se fait sa digestion.”— 
 Cardtlli, Manuel de Cuisinier, page 271. 
 
OBSERVATIONS ON VEGETABLES. 239 
 
 pauce, and tends 
 
 to sober the judgment and improve the 
 
 man. 
 
 On VEGETABLES we must add another word or two. 
 Although we cannot coincide with some persons, a very 
 i>mall minority indeed in this as well as other countries, 
 'jvho would persuade us that Vegetable Cookery only is 
 mtitled to attention ; in a word, that man can exist, and 
 comfortably exist to, without the use of any animal food ; 
 IVet we admit, and our notice of Vegetables in this chap- 
 er will confirm our sentiments, that they form a most 
 important part of the sustenance of man; and that 
 Vegetables aptly chosen, properly cooked, and com¬ 
 
 bined with a moderate portion of animal food, appear to 
 is, after a long and extensive experience, the best suited 
 fjjd the health, comfort, and well being of the human race. 
 I^xceptions to the employment of animal food at all will, 
 10 doubt, be found; indeed we know several gentlemen 
 rho have passed a long life without the use of much, if 
 Iny, animal food; but they are exceptions, and cannot 
 Iperefore be taken as criteria of what man, with his va- 
 ious tastes, habits, and employments, generally requires, 
 jhe abuse of any kind of food is no argument against its 
 Ibe; for if it were, we scarcely know any important 
 nimal or vegetable, nor indeed scarcely any other im¬ 
 portant aliment, fermented liquors and the various kinds of 
 I \pirits included, that ought not to be pi'ohibited. Man is 
 (jndowed with instincts, tastes, many of which cannot be 
 Ikfely contravened; it is the business of his reason to 
 i \egulate them. 
 
 -Now then, go ye 
 
 Peruse the Book of Nature, ample tome ! 
 
 Which whoso runs may read ; which whoso reads 
 With fit humility and fair desire. 
 
 Shall never fail to learn what most becomes 
 Inquiring man to know. Even COOKERY there. 
 Doffing her pride, and donning simple dress. 
 Shall be raised up from a degraded art 
 And win from all attention. 
 
240 
 
 CHAPTER XI. 
 
 PUDDINGS AND PIES, TARTS AND PUFFS, PAN¬ 
 CAKES AND FRITTERS. 
 
 1 
 
 — 
 
 r 
 
 [Our Council of Cooks having- determined, after mature 
 deliberation, that a Cookery Book , to be most exten 
 sively useful, ought to contain not only directions for 
 the practice of the art, but also an exposition of the prin¬ 
 ciples upon which the art is, or ought to be, founded, and 
 of the effects of many different agents on the process of 
 digestion and on the general health; and also, that such 
 exposition should be accompanied with some amusement a.- 
 well as information connected with the general subject, we 
 make no apology for laying before our readers the following 
 SKETCH.] 
 
 
 A SOP IN THE PAN; 
 
 OR, A 
 
 BONNE BOUCHE FOR THE GOURMANDS; 
 
 TO WHOM 
 
 IT IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED. 
 
 Trahit sua quemque wluptas. 
 
 There are who say, and not a few, 
 
 Our Cooking Precepts are not true;— 
 Such are the Fashionable Throng ,— 
 
 But Fashion frequently is wrong! 
 
 Behold, then, for each Gourmand sinner 
 A sketch, no more, of modern dinner. 
 
A BONNE BOUCHE. 
 
 241 
 
 Nota Bene. 
 
 [Sit down at eight o'clock at night* 
 
 What time the lamps are burning bright; 
 
 Bring with you a good appetite, 
 
 If that you have it, and if not, 
 
 Go, get you one from Doctor Scott! 
 
 Attentive to the drawn Programme, 
 
 From dish in chief to simple jam, 
 
 The Waiters will the whole arrange, 
 
 And all the dishes duly change; 
 
 But don't forget the Silver Fork,f 
 Essential to all gourmand wor/c.] 
 
 j * One of tlie greatest evils in fashionable society and in the 
 slife of the respectable citizen, is that of the late hour to which the 
 dinner is too often protracted. The effects of dining late are 
 ■manifold ; one is, that the desire for food becomes sometimes so 
 intense, that more than twice the quantity which the stomach can 
 
 I bonveniently elaborate is taken, than which, assisted by the 
 tempting variety of a plentiful table, nothing is so permanently 
 injurious to the digestive functions, and ultimately to the health; 
 
 , mother effect is, that, by such repletion, the mental functions are, 
 jn great measure, suspended, and a person who has thus indul¬ 
 ged, becomes, too often, a mere animal, and desires nothing but 
 .i rest and sleep, or both. Now, the reverse of all this takes place by 
 partaking of an early dinner. For ourselves, whenever we have 
 men obliged to yield to the late dinner-hour, and we never have 
 villingly done so, we have made it a point invariably to dine as 
 isual at our own dinner-hour at home, namely, between one and 
 wo o’clock, and then only off some simple viand, as a beef-steak 
 nd a potatoe; hence, at the late dinner-hour, the desire for food 
 las been moderate; and with discretion in our choice of it, we 
 ave not suffered much, if any, inconvenience. This our practice 
 3, we conceive, much better than that of many who, avoiding a 
 t tegular meal, have recourse, nevertheless, to soups, jellies, tarts, 
 tms, or sweetmeats, to remove the aching void of inanition. 
 
 t Although silver forks are now found on every table where 
 tshion is predominant, and are, it must be admitted, preferable to 
 lose made of iron or steel, when acids constitute a part of our 
 >od, yet it is a mistake to suppose that they are of modern intro- 
 uction. Dr. Heylyn, in his Cosmography , published more than 
 vo hundred years ago, speaking of the Chinese says, that “ they 
 it their meat with two sticks of ivory, ebony, or the like ; not 
 mcliing it with their hands at all, and, therefore, no great foulers 
 linen. The use of silver forks with us, by some of our spruce 
 illants taken up of late, came from hence into Italy, and from 
 ience into England.” Dr. King (Letters prefixed to his Art of 
 ookery) doubts Heylyn’s statement as to the origin of silver 
 
 M 
 
242 
 
 A BONNE BOUCHE 
 
 Soup—T urtle, Mock, or Pease or Beef, 
 
 Precedes, of course, a dish in chief; , 
 
 Then come the Fish, Flesh, Fowl, Roast, Boil d, 
 For which all day the Cook hath toil d, 
 
 Game, with its Fumet— flavour, smell,— 
 
 (The long-kept Venison, unpaunch’d Hare, 
 
 And Birds we need not here declare,)— 
 
 The which all Gourmands know full well: 
 
 It stands upon the very brink ^ 
 
 Of what some persons call a stink O 
 Quenelles, and Sauces, and Ragouts, 
 
 With Fricassees, Made Dishes, Stews; 
 
 Others, with designations strange 
 Of names we need not here arrange, 
 
 As Mullagatawny ,f aye, the same, 
 
 Well known to epicurean fame. 
 
 The Vegetables numerous were, 
 
 Some common, but far more were rare. 
 
 Some fricasseed, some form d a stew , 
 
 Though various, all were very few ! 
 
 Here let us pause.—“ Bring Lady Shandy 
 “ Some Usquebaugh, quick! quick! or Brandy! 
 u I hope your Ladyship’s not sick; - 
 “ The soup, I fear, was made too thick !— 
 u It ought to be the best I m sure, 
 
 “ The Flour put in it was most pure!” 
 
 forks; and in speaking of forks he says, “ the steel ones are 
 bibental, the silver generally resemble tr.dents; which makes me 
 think them to be as ancient as the Saturnian race, where t 
 former is appropriated to Pluto and the latter to Neptune. But 
 who can settle such historical difficulties ? The curious concern¬ 
 in'^ forks may see more about them in Dr. King s Letters. 
 
 * We knew a gentleman who advertised generally among his 
 Mends, that when any of them had a hare so far gone in decom¬ 
 position that they could not eat it, he would be greatly obliged if 
 
 thev would send it to him! , . , , 
 
 /A most unfortunate omission! this article, we find, is not set 
 down in our chapter of soups ; we hasten to correct the error : 
 
 Mullagatawny or Mulligatawney (lor the books give it both 
 ways) means, it is said, pepper-water; but.thisi we, who are not 
 learned in the Sanscrit or other East-Iudian languages, cannot 
 
 '‘"'muTlagatIwny Soup is, however some good soup flavoured 
 or spoiled with plenty of pepper and crime powder: the whole 
 secret of the mullagatawny met with in this country. 
 
FOR THE GOURMANDS. 
 
 243 
 
 “ Sir 'J'homas! health’s in that Champagne;— 
 “ Drink, and it will not be in vain!” 
 
 Tlie glasses clatter, wines abound, 
 
 And many a health now passes round. 
 
 Now look, and lo! what you shall see,— 
 Much pittoresque patisserie ,— 
 
 The works of fanciful Careme,* 
 
 To him an everlasting theme ! 
 
 Then come plum-pudding, tarts, and pie, 
 
 For which the full-grown babies sigh. 
 
 Ices wad jellies, custards, jams, 
 
 All which adown the gourmand crams. 
 
 Or ere the grand Dessert arrests, 
 
 A word or two about the guests: 
 
 They were, believe us, one and all, 
 
 Fit convives for a Baron’s hall; 
 
 Wits, Beauties, Lady fair, and Knight, 
 
 Maidens, of such bewitching mien, 
 
 That to be lov’d need but be seen; 
 
 Such were they at that banquet bright! 
 
 The Dessert. 
 
 Peaches, with glowing skins of down; 
 Delicious Pine ,f with thorny crown; 
 
 Sweet Nectarines ; Plums of various pride, 
 Display’d their bright and tempting side ; 
 And other fruits, both rich and rare; 
 Lo-quats \ and Grapes beyond compare. 
 
 * See some account of this gentleman in page 122: his work, 
 1 Le Patissier Pittoresque,” is certainly an inimitable production. 
 )n the uses and abuses of Pastry, see forwards. 
 
 t The pine-apple is the fruit of the bromelia ananas, a singular 
 dant found native in the warm parts of South America and 
 Vfrica. It has been cultivated in Europe since about the middle 
 f the seventeenth century. The varieties are numerous. We 
 onsider the pine-apple one of the richest and most wholesome of 
 ruits. 
 
 $ The Loquat belongs to the medlar tribe of fruit; it is the pro- 
 luce of the mespilus Japonica, a lofty tree, native of japan. It was 
 ntroduced into England in 1787, where by careful culture it pro- 
 uces an oval fruit about the size of a small apricot, which has ite 
 dmirers. See Hort. Transact, vol. iii. 
 
 M 2 
 
244 
 
 A BONNE BOUCHE 
 
 Figs, Prunes, a load of foreign cates,— 
 
 Pomegranates* Raisins, Almonds, Dates: f 
 Many of these, but chief the Fig,l 
 With horrid indigestion big. 
 
 The Orange, Melon, Nuts to crack; 
 
 In short all known to fame or art, 
 
 Of this dessert made up a part; 
 
 And Wine of each inviting smack, 
 
 From Port, Champagne, to Virgin. Lacfi 
 
 * Pomegranates are the fruit of the punica granatum, a deciduous 
 tree native of the south of Europe, Barbary, and China. It grows 
 in the open air in this country, w'here it has long been known; 
 but its fruit is not good. What we obtain in the shops is import¬ 
 ed ; that from the West Indies, to which the tree was carried 
 from Europe, is said to be better than the fruit in its native 
 climates. Many persons like pomegranates; we think them 
 mawkish; they are certainly improper for the dyspeptic. The 
 peel is a valuable astringent. 
 
 t Dates are the produce of the date palm, the phoenix dactylifera, 
 a tree native of the Levant and Africa. Dates are valuable as 
 lood to the inhabitants of their native climates; but here they 
 seem to partake of the properties of the preserved fig (which see); 
 they disagree with many stomachs. 
 
 I Figs are the fruit of the ficus carica, a tree native of the south 
 of Europe and some parts of Asia. They are also produced from 
 trees growing in this country, and by some persons, in their ripe 
 and recent state, are esteemed. The figs found in the shops are 
 preserved by a peculiar process, and imported from various places 
 bordering on the Mediterranean. They are usually soft and 
 sweet, and contain an abundance of the ingredients necessary to 
 produce fermentation, namely, gluten and sugar, hence, when 
 eaten, they soon excite disturbance in the stomach of most persons 
 whose digestion is not of the first order. They are called in the 
 west of England dough figs, a very expressive term for them. 
 
 § Virgin’s milk. We see no necessity here for enlarging our 
 list of tvines and liqueurs, too many of which encumber the tables 
 of modern entertainments; their various names may be learnt from 
 the Cuisinier Royal; we shall say something more about them in 
 a subsequent portion of our work. Nor are we disposed to extol 
 the wine usually drank by mortals as being like the fabulous 
 nectar of the gods, or like that given to the poets at the banquet 
 at which Apollo presided. (See below.) We are quite willing 
 to admit that good u-ine is a valuable stimulant when taken dis¬ 
 creetly ; yet we cannot subscribe to the monkish dictum, 
 
 Cum in arce cerebri Bacchus dominatur 
 In me Phoebus irruit ac miranda fatur. 
 
 There is however so much of the truly poetical in the following 
 lines, that the reader will not be displeased at our placing them 
 before him : 
 
FOR THE GOURMANDS. 
 
 245 
 
 Liqueurs, such as parfait amour;* 
 
 Of Usquebaugh\ an ample store;— 
 
 Brandi/ alone or mix’d with Wine! 
 
 On such all Fashionables dine! 
 
 But, ere the banquet be complete, 
 
 There yet remains a snug retreat, 
 
 Where Coffee, Tea, and Cream, t and Toast, 
 
 Do honour to the worthy host. 
 
 For such repasts how many sigh ? 
 
 Of such repasts how many die ? 
 
 Be now sincere and candid; tell 
 When such can e’er, by chance, be well! 
 
 Yet few are they who can abide 
 Or stem this fashionable tide ;— 
 
 Though judgment often frown dissent; 
 
 Though pierc’d by natural punishment: 
 
 What though the stomach sorely ache, 
 
 The mind its maladies partake ;§ 
 
 Though the gorg’d liver give a twang;— 
 
 Though pain around its regions hang;— 
 
 “ For the God had no sooner determin’d the fare, 
 
 “ Than it turn’d to whatever was racy and rare ; 
 
 “ The fish and the flesh, for example, were done, 
 
 “ On account of their fineness, in flame from the sun ; 
 
 “ The wines were all nectar of different smack, 
 
 “ To which Muskat was nothing, nor Vivginis Lac; 
 
 “ No, nor Lachryma Christi, though clearly divine, 
 
 “ Nor Montepu.lcia.no , though king of all wine !”* 
 
 Leigh Hunt’s Feast of the Poets. 
 
 * Perfect Love. 
 
 t If we desire to learn how readily a word, even of a living 
 anguage, becomes corrupted when transferred to another, it is 
 exemplified in a very striking manner in usquebaugh, which is 
 written by the French scuba; see Cuisinier Royal, page 528. 
 
 $ Many have been the vituperations hurled at those who supply 
 the inhabitants of the metropolis with milk and cream. We have 
 no desire to encourage adulterations of food of any kind; but it 
 
 J inay be questioned whether good rich milk in tea or coffee, and, 
 above all, thick cream, be not much more injurious to the stomach 
 of the citizen than the milk and water with which we are usually 
 supplied. Cream appears to disturb the functions of the stomach 
 much more readily than butter; it contains, besides the animal 
 Ijoil, a small portion of albumen, serum, and sugar. 
 
 \ § See what is said on this subject at the conclusion of the last 
 
 Chapter, page23S, as well as the General Observations below. 
 
 * Montepulciano d’ ogno Vino 6 il Re. — Redi, Racco in Toscano. 
 
246 
 
 A BONNE BOUCHE. 
 
 Though Dropsy swell, though Asthma tease, 
 Though scarcely a moment have they ease ; 
 Though Gout, with many a rack and ache, 
 All rest, all pleasure from them take; 
 
 What though Dyspepsia* in her train 
 Lead captive oft the suffering brain; 
 
 What though the Doctor send his pills 
 To mitigate, not cure, their ills— 
 
 Firm in their epicurean course, 
 
 They still go on from bad to worse,— 
 Careless of causes obvious, nigh, 
 
 And thus they live, and thus they die! 
 
 But Gentles! all who read our book— 
 Perchance are pleas’d in it to look—- 
 You will not fling the tome aside, 
 
 Because it touches human pride; 
 
 You will not readily forget— 
 
 There might be balm in Gilead yet! 
 
 And, therefore, if, with humble mind 
 You search, perhaps you yet may find. 
 Examine all things for yourselves ; 
 
 See, if for Truth one aptly delves, 
 
 Learn whether Knowledge might not cure 
 The ills which many now endure 
 From food or drink or their excess,—• 
 
 And may reward inquiry bless. 
 
 Try what we tell; yet put no trust 
 In aught but what is useful, just. 
 
 We ask no confidence of you,— 
 
 Our objects are the useful, true, 
 
 And these we ask you to pursue, 
 
 Assur’d that, thus, you may attain 
 Much mastery o’er human pain ; 
 
 And, for you must desire the treasure, 
 
 Much mastery o’er human pleasure. 
 
 General Observations. As we are in this Chapter 
 about to enter into a description of those dishes, of many of 
 which wheat-flour constitutes an essential ingredient, we 
 
 • Bad digestion, a complaint it is to be feared on the increase in 
 this country, and more especially in our cities and large towns; 
 how much it is aggravated by late hours, and the improper food 
 taken by the citizen, we do not here determine. 
 
OBSERVATIONS ON DYSPEPSIA. 
 
 247 
 
 beg leave to direct the reader’s attention not only to’what 
 we have said in the above lines, but also to intreat that re¬ 
 ference be made to those observations on wheat-flour which 
 appear in various preceding parts of our work; as well as 
 more especially to what is said under the constituents of 
 vegetables and of wheat in the last chapter. Although we 
 have to lament that so many persons suffer from eating and 
 drinking too much, or of what is improper for them; yet 
 we cannot suppose that they would voluntarily inflict misery 
 upon themselves were they thoroughly assured that their 
 practices were bad; no : their chief mistake lies, we believe, 
 in their not being accurate observers ; in their not per¬ 
 ceiving that though our desire for food, when the stomach 
 is in a healthy state , may be in general safely followed, 
 yet that it cannot be trusted to when the stomach is in a 
 diseased state: for nothing is more true than this: that 
 we often relish both food and drink very much , and yet 
 no sooner shall either pass into the stomach , when that 
 organ is diseased, than a series of dyspeptic symptoms 
 begin, %vhich lead both to pain of body and misery of 
 mind. 
 
 We wish such persons could become assured of this 
 truth, concerning which w r e have, however, no desire to 
 dogmatise; we merely beg leave respectfully to call atten¬ 
 tion to the fact, convinced that the more the subject is 
 examined the more striking will such fact become. 
 
 We shall take other occasions of commenting on the uses 
 and abuses of pastry; but we may here emphatically note 
 the absurdity, after having made an excellent repast of 
 animal and vegetable food, of loading the stomach with 
 puddings or pies; surely enough is as good as a feast! 
 and though the adage be homely, it is founded both in 
 nature and in truth. 
 
 In mixing flour, in particular, as well as other farinace¬ 
 ous substances with liquids, in order to make them into a 
 paste or a batter, which is merely a thin paste, care should 
 be taken to mix the liquid in small quantity at a time, in 
 order to prevent the flour or other material from becoming 
 clotty; it is true, in regard to paste, that the rolling-pin or 
 kneading will generally obviate the inconvenience ; but in 
 
248 
 
 BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 regard to batter , more caution in this respect will be neces¬ 
 sary, in order to avoid considerable trouble ; some indeed 
 direct batter to be strained through a coarse hair-sieve, by 
 which means the lumps will be separated, as well as the 
 treadles of the eggs, should any eggs be in the composition. 
 It is also the best way, after the eggs designed for any 
 pudding are beaten, to strain them through a coarse sieve 
 before mixing them with the rest of the ingredients. 
 
 To insist upon the flour being good, the eggs sweet and 
 well beaten, that the fruit which you employ, and particu¬ 
 larly the currants, (the Corinth raisins) be well washed, and 
 the stones and other foreign matter separated from them; 
 and that all other raisins have the stones taken out of them, 
 and be previously well washed; to insist, in short, that all 
 the materials of which puddings and pies are made, should 
 be of the best quality, and in the greatest perfection, might 
 seem superfluous; but there are persons occasionally en¬ 
 gaged in cooking, who require to be reminded or told of 
 such apparently simple and obvious things. 
 
 The following DIRECTIONS FOR BOILED PUD¬ 
 DINGS demand the cook’s attention. If you boil your 
 pudding in a cloth or bag, dip it, being previously well 
 cleaned and sweet, into boiling water, then press it dry, 
 and let it be well floured before the pudding is put into it. 
 If it be a ^read-pudding, it is usual to tie it loosely; and if 
 a 6af£er-pudding, the common direction in our cookery- 
 books is to tie it close; but of this we do not approve: 
 batter-puddings, as well as those made of suet, &c. should 
 be tied somewhat loosely to allow for the expansion of the 
 ingredients ; such puddings as rice and pease should, after 
 boiling for some time, be taken up and loosened in the 
 cloth, in order to give more room for their expansion, and 
 then be again set to boil. 
 
 If the pudding be boiled in a bason, and most puddings 
 in respectable families are now thus boiled, the inside of the 
 bason should be previously buttered. All puddings should 
 be put into the water, of which there should be plenty, 
 when it is boiling, except those of rice and pease , which 
 may be put into the water w T hen it is cold. If much of the 
 water escape during the process, more should be added 
 
BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 249 
 
 ■ 
 
 ; boiling hot. Some direct the boiler to be uncovered; we, 
 on the contrary, say, and cleanliness demands that the 
 cover should be kept on. 
 
 Puddings should be boiled alone, not with other food, in 
 jorder that no improper taste may be communicated to them; 
 yet there is no objection to suet-pudding being boiled with 
 beef. If the pudding be boiled in a bag or cloth, it should 
 be occasionally moved, so that it may be prevented from 
 sticking to the bottom or sides of the vessel. 
 
 The Time of boiling Puddings must be varied according 
 to their size and the quality of their ingredients; puddings 
 made with suet and wheat-flour, w r ith or without fruit, will 
 require three or even more hours to render them suitable 
 for the stomach. Rice and pease puddings must be boiled 
 till they are tender; but as rice consists principally of 
 starch, too much boiling of it will abstract a portion of its 
 nutritive property, and make the remainder too mucilagi¬ 
 nous to be ag-reeable. Too much boiling of pudding is not, 
 how'ever, an error which the cook is very likely to commit. 
 In the absence of eggs for puddings, some employ small 
 beer, or, which is much better, yeast; but if wheat-flour 
 form a portion of the paste when yeast is employed, some 
 time should be allowed for the paste to ferment before it is 
 submitted to the boiler: others again use snow; but this 
 ■ ‘scarcely deserves mention, as it cannot be often obtained in 
 this country. In order to make wholesome puddings, the 
 cook should know that wheat-flour alone made into a pud¬ 
 ding with water, will be hard and unwholesome; that such 
 puddings require the addition of suet, butter, or other fat, 
 or eggs or milk, or yeast, to separate the gluten in parti¬ 
 cular, and thus render it more suitable to the digestive 
 functions. We consider milk, particularly that which is to 
 be obtained in London, the least proper of all the articles 
 inhere mentioned; see Wheat-Flour, page 207; eggs, 
 too, although very nutritious, and suitable to the stomach 
 in a state of health, often render such puddings extremely 
 unfit for the dyspeptic. 
 
 If you should accidentally have a pudding that does not 
 quite fill the bason, it may be filled with slices of bread, 
 Iwhich will prevent the access of too much water; when 
 the pudding is done, the bread may be removed. 
 
 m 3 
 
250 
 
 BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 Note, that the French order the following puddings to 
 be boiled four hours :■—a pudding made with the flour of 
 Indian corn ; rice pudding and ajiple pudding ; meal 
 pudding, plum, and all other kinds of pudding, three or 
 four hours. See Manuel de Cuisinier, page 49. 
 
 A CABINET PUDDING. Soak six sponge-cakes and 
 two ounces of ratafias in a glass of sweet wine; then make 
 a custard as for baking, butter a mould, and put dried 
 cherries all over it; put in the cakes, and pour the custard 
 on them; lay a buttered paper on the top, tie it down close, 
 and steam it for an hour. Serve it with the following 
 sauce: the yolks of two eggs well beaten, a quarter of a 
 pint of cream, some sugar, and a little white wine; make 
 it hot, but do not let it boil.—Y. 
 
 CROUTE AU POT. This dish is prepared by the 
 French, from whom w r e borrow it,* in various ways; the 
 best by far is the following: pour upon the brown, not 
 burnt, crust of well-baked bread, (or rather upon thin 
 slices of well-toasted bread,) a sufficient quantity of good 
 broth freed from the fat, or strong beef-tea, so that it may 
 simmer over a slow fire till it is in part evaporated but not 
 reduced to dryness ; when it is sufficiently gratinee, that is, 
 rendered of a dark brown colour by occasional adhesion to 
 the bottom of the stewpan, but it must not be burnt, you 
 must add a little more of the broth or beef-tea before it 
 is served up. It will require no seasoning. See Beef- 
 
 tea. 
 
 Note, that this is recommended by the French as an 
 excellent stimulant where the digestion is impaired; and 
 also instead of a dram to be taken in the morning or fore¬ 
 noon after the day of any excess in food or drink; to this 
 recommendation we most heartily subscribe. 
 
 Some direct pot-skimming, and other fat, besides the 
 broth, to be poured over the bread; such may suit the 
 robust and coarse appetite, but the delicate and dyspeptic 
 must avoid them. 
 
 BREAD PUDDING. Cut the crumb of a penny loai 
 into thin slices, or, in its stead, take thin slices of the 
 crumb of stale but sweet bread; pour over the bread a 
 
 * Manuel de Cuisinier, p. 29. 
 
BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 251 
 
 quart of milk made boiling hot, and cover it close till the 
 bread is well soaked. Beat up the yolks of six eggs and 
 the whites of three, to which add half an ounce of rose¬ 
 water, a little grated nutmeg, some sugar, salt, and two 
 ounces of butter. Mix all well together, and boil for an 
 hour. Serve it up with melted butter poured over it; or 
 with sweet sauce, composed of wine, sugar, and a little 
 butter. This pudding may be also baked. 
 
 WHITE PUDDING/ Boil for a few minutes, taking- 
 care that it does not burn, one quart and half a pint of new 
 milk, w T ith some grated nutmeg, cloves, pounded cinnamon, 
 and twelve ounces of sugar. Pour the milk, after being- 
 strained, boiling hot, upon half a pound of the crumb of 
 stale white bread cut into slices; cover it close, and let it 
 remain till the bread is well soaked; then add a pound of 
 aeef suet chopped fine and well beaten, half a pound of 
 sweet almonds blanched and w r ell beaten, with half an ounce 
 )f orange-flower water, and eight eggs, from four of which 
 •emove the whites ; add to the whole half an ounce of salt, 
 ind mix all well together. Boil it for an hour. Serve it 
 ip with the same sauce as the preceding. 
 
 Note .—Some use cream instead of milk; but of this we 
 !o not approve. 
 
 A BATTER PUDDING. Mix six spoonsful of flour, 
 
 1 teaspoonful of salt, and one of ginger, with a quart of 
 ;ood milk, taking care to mix the flour, in the first in- 
 tance, with a small quantity of the milk, so that it may 
 j e prevented from becoming clotty. Beat well the yolks 
 f six eggs and the whites of three, and then mix them 
 refully with the flour, milk, &c. previously well incor- 
 rated. Boil for two hours and a half. Serve it up with 
 ae same sauce as the preceding. 
 
 Note. A richer pudding may be made with cream; 
 ame will add nutmeg- and other aromatic condiments to 
 ach puddings : these additions must be left to the taste 
 ad discretion of the cook. 
 
 This pudding is occasionally made without the eggs; 
 uit, such as currants, are also sometimes added to it; 
 ad some will add butter, even when eggs are employed. 
 
 is also sometimes baked, for which an hour will be 
 ifficient. 
 
252 
 
 BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 CUSTARD PUDDING. Make a pint of thick cream 
 boiling hot, to which add a little cinnamon in powder and a 
 quarter of a pound of sugar; when it is cold, mix with it 
 the yolks of five eggs well beaten; stir the mixture over 
 the fire till it is pretty thick, but it must not boil. When 
 cold, put it into a bason and boil it for three quarters of an 
 hour or more. Serve it up with some sugar grated over 
 it. The sauce may he melted butter and a little wine in a 
 boat. 
 
 Note. One drop of the oil of cinnamon on a lump of 
 sugar, and mixed with the other ingredients, before you 
 remove the eggs, &c. from the file, will flavour the pudding 
 elegantly. 
 
 ANOTHER CUSTARD PUDDING, sometimes called 
 a Quaking Pudding. Make a quart of cream boiling 
 hot; when nearly cold, mix four eggs, well beaten, with a 
 spoonful and a half of flour, and add the mixture to the 
 cream with some sugar and grated nutmeg. Boil it for an 
 hour, and then turn it carefully out. Serve it up with 
 melted butter, sugar, and wine poured over it; or sugar 
 may be grated over it, and the sauce served up in a boat. 
 
 CREAM PUDDING. Boil a quart of cream with a 
 little mace for fifteen or more minutes ; then take out the 
 mace, and let the cream become cold; take now six eggs, 
 three of the whites being left out, beat them well, and mix 
 them, after being strained through a coarse sieve with the 
 cold cream, to which add one ounce of fine flour and a little 
 grated nutmeg. Boil the whole in a bason for half an hour. 
 Serve it up with a sauce of melted butter, having a glass 
 of white wine in it; the whole of which may be poured 
 upon the pudding, over which some will, beside, strew fine 
 grated sugar. 
 
 Note, that this pudding will be more wholesome if the 
 flour be left out, and, in its stead, be added two ounces of 
 pure starch. See Starch, page 199. 
 
 Note, also, that severed other cream pudding’s may be 
 made by a little variation in the ingredients; some of such 
 are called, by those who admire French cookery, Cream 
 Patissiere: the addition of the flavour of the lemon, in 
 particular, will make a pleasing variety. 
 
 PLUM PUDDING. Take of raisins stoned, currants, , 
 
 
BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 253 
 
 and beef suet, chopped fine, of each one pound ; of can¬ 
 died orange and candied lemon-peel, all minced fine, or 
 rather beaten into a pulp, of each two ounces ; a little 
 grated nutmeg', and other spices if you choose, one pound 
 of flour, a gill of brandy, and eight eggs well beaten, to 
 which add a little salt. Mix the whole into a paste of a 
 proper consistence with milk; or some will employ cream 
 instead of milk. Let it boil for five hours, and serve it 
 up with a sauce made with melted butter, sugar, and 
 wine poured over it; after which strew over it grated 
 sugar. 
 
 Note, that this is the old-fashioned plum pudding which 
 has for ages, in this country, been served up with our 
 roast beef. But our modern cookery has so far improved 
 upon this dish that, instead of using flour, we now employ 
 the crumb of bread soaked in the milk, and then beaten 
 into a pulp before it is mixed with the other ingredients. 
 When bread is used instead of flour, the pudding will take 
 an hour less in the boiling. 
 
 Note, also, that both these puddings may be either 
 boiled or baked ; the reader will, from what we have 
 already said, conclude that we prefer the bread to the 
 flour in all such puddings. 
 
 A HUNTING PUDDING consists of similar ingre¬ 
 dients to the last; but it has double the quantity of currants 
 which it has of raisins, is mixed with cream instead of 
 milk, has flour, not bread, to form it, and is served up in 
 the same way. It may be also boiled or baked. 
 
 Note, that we shall have other opportunities of men¬ 
 tioning the grape ; it may be stated, however, here, that 
 the currants, so common in pastry, in this country, are 
 the dried fruit of a species of grape-vine, the vitis Corin- 
 \ thic.a, a native of Greece and several of the Grecian 
 islands; they were formerly produced chiefly at or near 
 Corinth, whence the name, long since corrupted to cur¬ 
 rants; they are now brought to this country chiefly from 
 the island of Zante. They are more acidulous than the 
 larger dried grapes, appear to contain less sugar than those, 
 and are, therefore, as food, more wholesome, being besides 
 more aperient than any of the large raisins, which are 
 all the dried fruit of the vitis vinifera, or grape-vine, a 
 
254 
 
 BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 native of most temperate regions of the earth ; its varieties 
 both of red and white are very numerous. Raisins are 
 imported from various places bordering on the Mediterranean, 
 and they have very often the name of the city or town 
 whence they are brought. They are eaten here at the 
 dessert and also in puddings as above ; but they are by no 
 means a desirable food, as they contain several of the 
 elements of fermentation, and, therefore, should be eaten 
 sparingly if at all by the dyspeptic ; they should be also 
 avoided by such persons in puddings. See raisin wine 
 forwards. 
 
 A SUET OR PLAIN PUDDING is made in various 
 ways; a very good one thus: take one pound of beef suet 
 chopped fine; the same quantity of flour, two or three eggs 
 well beaten, a little salt, and milk sufficient to make it of 
 a proper consistence : a quart is about the usual quantity. 
 If boiled in one pudding it will require four hours or more ; 
 but if divided into six or eight parts as Dumplings half 
 that time will be sufficient for them. 
 
 Note , a still plainer pudding may be made by omitting 
 the milk and the eggs, and employing only water instead 
 of both, which if well boiled will be very good. 
 
 A richer one by adding currants, sugar, a little ginger 
 or some other spice, and double the number of eggs ; some 
 instead of flour will use the crumb of bread well soaked in 
 the milk. 
 
 Note, also, that when any of the mixtures here described 
 be made into Dumplings, they may he boiled in the vessel 
 with beef or mutton, without a cloth, and although more 
 homely thus boiled, they will be nevertheless more whole¬ 
 some. 
 
 Beef suet is the best for these puddings ; but some will 
 employ mutton suet, or even veal suet, or good dripping. 
 
 Note, particularly, that the first plain pudding above 
 described, is excellent when eaten with boiled beef or 
 mutton; and that all the kinds when cold and cut into 
 slices, and fried or otherwise made hot, form an agreeable 
 dish. 
 
 All these puddings may be also baked as well as boiled ; 
 the first is an excellent one to be placed by the side of the 
 meat as described in page 56. 
 
BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 255 
 
 A HASTY PUDDING is made in various ways; but 
 in whichever way made, that stomach must be in a very 
 good state which can digest it without inconvenience. A 
 simple one may be made by merely mixing flour and water 
 to the consistence of a thin pap, and then pouring the 
 mixture into boiling water suflicient to make it, when 
 boiled for a few minutes, of a thickish consistence : it may 
 be then served up with melted butter and sugar mixed with 
 it: some use treacle instead of sugar. 
 
 Or, instead of water, as above, milk may be employed 
 with some eggs well beaten, and a suflicient quantity of 
 flour to make it, when boiled for a few minutes, of a pro¬ 
 per consistence ; it may be served with salt and what other 
 condiments you choose. 
 
 Note, we give these mixtures, but we do not recommend 
 them; assuredly pure starch will make a much more 
 wholesome hasty pudding than flour, and as such we 
 strongly recommend it to those who like hasty dishes of 
 this kind. 
 
 RICE PUDDING is also made in various ways; the 
 simplest and perhaps the best is by boiling four ounces of 
 rice tied up in a cloth in water, giving it room to expand, 
 for two or more hours, and when it is tender to serve it up 
 with melted butter and sugar, to which some will add nut¬ 
 meg or other spice. See Rice, page 215. 
 
 Note, some put in with the rice four ounces or more of 
 currants, which add to the agreeableness of the dish ; some 
 may choose raisins instead of currants, but we do not re¬ 
 commend them. 
 
 SAGO PUDDING is usually made by boiling two 
 ounces of sago in a pint of milk till it is tender ; when the 
 mixture is cold, two Naples biscuits, a little brandy, sugar, 
 Itrated lemon-peel, cinnamon or other spice, and four or 
 more eggs well beaten are added to it. You may either 
 boil or bake it; if baked, let a cut paste border be laid 
 •ound the dish. The boiled pudding may be served up 
 A'ith a sauce composed of melted butter, wine, and sugar. 
 
 Note, that sago (which is a granulated substance ob¬ 
 tained from the pith of several species of the palm tree, 
 ?hiefly from the Cycas circualis, or broad leaved cycas, 
 hat grows in the East Indies,) is nearly, if not entirely 
 
256 
 
 BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 starch, and is, therefore, similar in its properties to that 
 useful aliment. And note, also, that although the sago 
 being dissolved in the milk by boiling, will necessarily be 
 rendered more nutritious, yet, as it must be boiled for a 
 considerable time with the milk before the grains become 
 tender, there is great danger without uncommon care, that 
 the milk will acquire a burnt taste which will spoil your 
 pudding; a more certain method will be to boil the sago in 
 water, and add milk to it, if you choose, afterwards; of 
 you may add butter to it and omit the milk. 
 
 APPLE PUDDING. Make a stiff paste with half a 
 pound of flour, four ounces of suet chopped fine, or butter 
 or marrow, or good dripping, and a little salt and water; 
 some use milk instead of water. Let it be well kneaded 
 and then rolled out thin ; line a basin with it and fill it 
 with good boiling - apples pared, cut into quarters or less, 
 and cored. The simple condiment of a little grated gingei 
 will render it very pleasant; some will add not only grated 
 lemon peel but cloves, nutmeg, and cinnamon; the cloves 
 may be put in whole, but the other spices should be reduced 
 to powder. Lay a thin paste on the top and boil it according- 
 to art When it is taken up, cut it open at the top, mix 
 some sugar with it, and butter if you choose. 
 
 Note, that some use puff paste instead of the above, 
 which see forward, and also below, under other fruit 
 puddings. 
 
 APPLE DUMPLINGS. Pare good boiling apples and 
 so cut them in two as to be enabled to take out the cores ; 
 make a paste as directed for apple-pudding, and roll it out 
 about a quarter of an inch thick ; enclose each apple in a piece 
 of the paste, and tie each dumpling separately in a cloth, and 
 boil them till the apples are tender. Some prefer boiling 
 them without a cloth ; it is the most economical way ; but 
 the first is the neatest, and by most considered the best; 
 others will boil them in nets. They are usually eaten with 
 butter and sugar. 
 
 Note, we consider a well boiled apple dumpling the 
 most wholesome of all pastry; there are few stomachs 
 with which it will not agree. They may be also baked ; 
 but they are not so wholesome as when they are boiled. 
 
 OTHER FRUIT PUDDINGS, such as the Gooseberry , 
 
BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 257 
 
 the Red Currant, Plum , Cherry, Apricot, both green and 
 ripe. Peach, Nectarine, Pear, Blackberry , Whorts, Rasp- 
 bery, 8fc., may be made in a similar way to apple-pudding. 
 But Raspberries are usually employed only with currants, 
 which they give an agreeable variety ; apples being added 
 o blackberries will improve their flavour ; and some will 
 dd currants to whorts. The wall fruit, such as Peaches , 
 Nectarines, and Apricots when ripe, are usually deprived 
 f their stones and stems, by being pulped through a coarse 
 air sieve, and then made into a pudding ; the paste of 
 uch is also, sometimes, made with cream or milk and 
 ggs, instead of w T at,er; in this case the suet or other fat 
 is omitted and the flour is in much less quantity. 
 
 Note, that all puddings which contain wheat flour are 
 much more wholesome boiled than baked. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY PUDDING is sometimes made by 
 ixing the fruit in any quantity you please with the paste, 
 n a similar way that currants, raisins, &c. are mixed in 
 lum-pudding; thus made, it is served up with sugar and 
 utter poured over it. 
 
 PRUNE and DAMSON PUDDINGS are also some- 
 imes made like the preceding, but, instead of the flour, 
 nilk and eggs are employed ; or, at most, a very small 
 i liortion of flour : when thus made, 
 lime in boiling than when a large 
 nto the composition. 
 
 MINCED MEAT PUDDING is made by rolling out 
 he paste into a large flat surface, laying the minced meat 
 ill over it, and then rolling it into a long roll and boiling it 
 
 .V 
 
 itJ 
 
 they require much less 
 portion of flour enters 
 
 ipi I n a cloth. 
 
 a.. 
 
 An APPLE PUDDING is also sometimes made in a 
 limilar way. 
 
 : i Note. —All these form agreeable varieties ; by some in- 
 eed they are preferred to the usual methods of making 
 a»-toiled fruit puddings. 
 
 RHUBARB PUDDING. The green, tender, and 
 cpW irgest part of the leaf stalks of rhubarb are used for this 
 urpose. After being well cleansed by washing and sepa- 
 ated from the leaf, they must be cut into small pieces and 
 lade into a pudding, precisely in the same way as directed 
 pr apple pudding. It is served up with sugar if desired, 
 
258 
 
 BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 without it. It is at onci 
 
 but some will eat this puddin 
 agreeable and wholesome. 
 
 Note that three kinds of rhubarb, the roots of whicl 
 are perennial, are cultivated, namely, the Rheum rhapon 
 ticum, or common rhubarb, a native of Asia, and lon^ 
 known in this country ; the Rheum hybridum, or Hybru ; 
 rhubarb, introduced in 1778; and the Rheum palmatum 
 or Chinese rhubarb, distinguished from the others by it: 
 elegant palmate leaves. The two first are chiefly employer, I 
 for puddings and pies ; the Hybrid rhubarb is said to be the 
 best. The Chinese rhubarb affords, it is said, the root s< 
 well known as a medicine in the shops, and is sometime; 
 dried here and used instead of the foreign article. 
 
 PEASE PUDDING is best made with split peas, bu , 
 if these cannot be obtained, whole ones must be used, can 
 being taken that they are, in either case, good boilers ant;i 
 white; for some pease boil so badly that scarcely any time 
 however lonsr, will make them tender. Peas, whethei spli 
 or whole, should soak in water for many hours before the.' 
 are set to boil. They should be tied loosely in a cloth 1 i 
 split, (but if whole they will not require this precaution ii , 
 the first instance,) and be boiled till they are so soft tha J 
 they may be pulped through a colander. Some mix witl 
 the pulp a little salt, pepper, and the yolk of an egg o 1 
 two, according to the size of the pudding, which should h 
 boiled in the cloth, after being pulped and tied more closely 
 
 for about half an hour more. f 
 
 Note, that the time for boiling peas cannot be accuratel; 1 
 set down, but two hours at least, frequently three or more 
 will be necessary. Some will add to the pudding butter a 
 well as the eggs, &c. ; we think that it is better not to ad< 
 any one thing to it before it is served up, when melted but 
 ter may be poured over it; pepper and salt may be adder 
 to it at the pleasure of the guest, more especially as thi 
 pudding is usually an attendant on boiled pork, more o 
 less salted.—And note, also, that this pudding in its plain 
 est state is by far the most wholesome. If the split pea 
 boil well, passing them through a colander might be an 
 often is omitted. 
 
 YEAST DUMPLINGS. Make a dough with flour 
 water, salt, and yeast, the same as for bread; place it be 
 
BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 259 
 
 i 
 
 fore the fire slightly covered for half an hour or more, so 
 that it may ferment; then roll the dough into balls about 
 ; the size of an egg, and put them into boiling water, in 
 
 Po. 
 
 Id 
 In 
 
 (it 
 
 vhich they should continue for about ten minutes, and they 
 dll be done; serve them up with melted butter, wine, and 
 
 sugar. 
 
 Note. —Some, instead of water, use milk; but we fear 
 n every way in which these dumplings are made, without 
 nuch more boiling than is usually given to them, they will 
 >e found very unsuitable for many stomachs ; we neither 
 ike hasty pudding nor hasty dumplings. 
 
 BISCUIT PUDDING. To three Naples biscuits, 
 rated, pour a pint of boiling hot milk or cream ; cover it 
 lose, and when cold add the yolks of four eggs and the 
 61 Whites of two, all well beaten, a little grated nutmeg, some 
 sa randy, half a spoonful of flour, and a little sugar; let it 
 oil an hour ; serve it up with sauce made of melted butter, 
 vine, and sugar. 
 
 NORFOLK DUMPLINGS. Make half a pint of 
 lilk, two eggs well beaten, and a little salt, into a thick 
 atter with flour; drop them into boiling water, and let 
 lem boil two or three minutes. Drain them and serve 
 em up with a lump of fresh butter stirred among them. 
 Note .—This is another of those hasty dishes which we 
 .nnot approve. 
 
 For a POTATO PUDDING boiled, see, forwards, 
 otato Pudding baked. 
 
 BLACK PUDDING. Take one pint of the blood of a 
 g, fresh obtained from the animal, and stir it till it is 
 ite cold, and then let it be well mixed with a quarter of 
 peck of whole grits previously boiled in water for half an 
 ur ; season with salt and with what other condiments you 
 oose, such as one or more of the spices and sweet herbs, 
 t we recommend none of them. Take now some of the 
 t membrane whence the lard is obtained, (by some called 
 e leaf, by others the fleay or flick,) cut it into small 
 ad mix them with the grits, &c. Fill as many of 
 , or portions of them, well cleansed, three parts 
 11 with the pudding as you choose ; tie both ends together 
 d boil them in water for an hour or more, depending upon 
 ir size. A hole should be made here and there with 
 e fine pointed instrument in the skin of each pudding. 
 
260 
 
 BOILED PUDDINGS. 
 
 in order to permit the disengaged gas to escape during the 
 boiling 1 , and thus to prevent its bursting. 
 
 Note. —Black pudding will be good for little without 
 considerable admixture of the fat. If properly seasoned 
 and deposited in a cool dry place they will keep good for 
 some time; they are best, and we believe most wholesome, 
 when broiled. The Scotch employ sometimes the blood of 
 a goose instead of that of a pig. Others ag’ain use rice and 
 bread crumbs instead of grits, and chopped beef suet in¬ 
 stead of the fat of the pig; others again will add to these 
 some eggs ; but we believe the first form which we have 
 given is every way the preferable one. 
 
 A WHITE PUDDING may be made in precisely the 
 same way as black pudding by merely omitting the blood. 
 For another kind of white pudding see p. 251. 
 
 A BEEF-STEAK PUDDING is made with the sanr 
 paste as apple pudding, which see above. Cut your steak, 
 of the thickness mentioned in page 63, or somewhat 
 thinner, and lay them in a bason lined with paste, placing 
 small slices of fat between each steak ; or you may omi 
 the fat and put, instead, minced onion. Season them witl 
 what you choose; some use minced onion and salt only 
 others add, besides, blanched oysters and sliced potatoes 
 the first method is the simplest and the best; cover th 
 steaks with paste and boil them for two or more hours. 
 
 Note , some, when this pudding is boiled in a bason, ad 
 a little water to it; but, if properly made, it may be boile 
 in a cloth ; care, however, must be taken that it does nc 
 burst during the boiling and thus let the gravy out. Or ;i 
 may he made by lining a saucepan with paste and in othe 
 respects treated as the Mutton Pudding for a family 
 below. It is in its simplest forms, without oysters or pots 
 toes, a very wholesome dish. 
 
 MUTTON PUDDING for a FAMILY may be thus pr< 
 pared. Take an iron boiler, or a large saucepan, or stev 
 pan, the cover of which fits tight, and line the inside all rour 
 with paste, such as that for beaf steak pudding; but put r 
 paste at the bottom; fill the vessel with mutton c.ho] 
 having a suitable quantity of fat; season with salt ar 
 pepper and pour into it a quart or more of water accordir 
 to the size of your pudding ; cover the whole with pas 
 and boil it for three or more hours; if you have reason 
 
BAKED PUDDINGS. 
 
 261 
 
 elieve that the water is nearly evaporated towards the end 
 f the process, add some boiling hot through an opening 
 lade in the paste. It should be served altogether in a dish 
 ith the gravy, and the paste cut into pieces. 
 
 Note, that this is an excellent and substantial family 
 ish ; it is called in some of our rural districts crock-pie. 
 
 PUDDINGS of other animal food, aswell as of Rabbits, 
 poultry, and Game, may be made in a similar way to 
 hat of beef steaks or mutton chops, with the seasoning usual 
 p each dish. Sometimes those who desire uncommon and 
 nwholesome dishes composed of different animals, will 
 !aake them into puddings, with bread crumbs soaked in 
 ream and the addition of yolks of eggs, some fat, such as 
 jird cut into pieces, and various condiments; but these, be 
 I remembered, we do not recommend. 
 
 BAKED PUDDINGS. Attend to the General Observa- 
 ions concerning puddings at the commencement of this 
 Shapter; and more especially to what is stated about wheat 
 lour. As we are now entering more immediately upon the 
 egion of Baked Pastry, of which wheat-flour is often a 
 lonsiderable ingredient, the cook should know that no 
 aking of the paste formed with wheat-flour, however long 
 ontinued,* if that flour has not undergone previous fermen¬ 
 tation, will prevent it from going into that which is natural 
 :o it when moistened, or when taken into the stomach, 
 for this reason it chiefly is that baked pastry having un- 
 'ermented flour in it disagrees with so many persons. This 
 s not, however, all; for if eggs, cream, and other indi¬ 
 gestible as well as fermentable substances be added to the 
 mdding, such as raisins, candied lemon, orange, citron, 
 vc. the mischief arising from the mixture to those who 
 iave weak and dyspeptic stomachs will be incalculably great, 
 the puddings for which baking is best suited are those of 
 Rice, Bread, Sago, Millet, Bread and Butter, fyc. It 
 houldbe noted toothatthe great heat to which puddings are 
 iften subjected in the baking, where any of the animal fats 
 such as suet, lard, butter, or even cream) are employed 
 
 * This mus! be understood witli the proviso (see th eGeneralObser- 
 ■ations on Pies) that the paste does not undergo some fermenta- 
 jion during the process of baking ; or, that the flour is not wholly 
 ijecomposed by the heat employed : for it is possible, by long con- 
 inued and intense heat, to reduce the flour to charcoal. 
 
262 
 
 BAKED PUDDINGS. 
 
 in them, will often convert the fat into a state of acridity, 
 or rather, perhaps, acidity, which is peculiarly offensive tc 
 a great many stomachs. It is true that the healthy and 
 robust may, and often do, partake of such food with impu¬ 
 nity, but the more delicate ought not to touch it; and 
 hence the great care required in the process of baking , 
 so that only so much heat and no more be administered than 
 is necessary to fulfil the conditions here laid down; too 
 much heat will be, consequently, as injurious to a pudding 
 as too little ; both extremes must be avoided. 
 
 BATH PUDDING. Let six eggs, leaving out the 
 whites of four, be well beaten with a little salt, to which 
 add a teaspoonful of orange flower water, the same quantity 
 of brandy, three ounces of loaf sugar, four table-spoonsful 
 of flour, and a pint of cream; let the whole be w r ell beaten; 
 butter some small cups, and fill them ; half an hour will 
 bake them. Serve with wine sauce.—Y. 
 
 AMBER PUDDING. Mix in a saucepan six ounces 
 of lump sugar, finely powdered, with half a pound of fresh , 
 butter, to which add the yolks of seven eggs well beaten, 
 and as much fresh candied orange peel as will give it colour 
 and flavour; line the dish with paste and bake it in a slow 
 oven.—Y. 
 
 POTATOE PUDDING. Beat half a pound of pota¬ 
 toes, when boiled, into a smooth paste, with six ounces of 
 butter, and half a pound of powdered lump sugar, to which 
 add the yolks of six eggs well beaten, the outside rind of 
 one lemon well minced, the juice of two, and one glass of 
 white wine; all being well mixed together, line the dish 
 with good paste, and bake it an hour. — Y. 
 
 RICE PUDDING. Boil four ounces of rice in water 
 till it is tender, strain off the water, and add to the rice a 
 little grated lemon peel, some powdered cinnamon, or, in 
 its stead, a drop of oil of cinnamon on a lump of sugar, 
 which mix with more sugar to the taste which you desire, 
 six eggs well beaten, a little grated nutmeg, and a pint of 
 good milk and two ounces of butter; when the whole is 
 well mixed put it into a baking dish and send it to the oven. 
 
 It will not require more than, if so much as, an hour to be 
 baked. 
 
 Note, you may add currants at your pleasure to this 
 
BAKED PUDDINGS. 
 
 263 
 
 ish; some use cream instead of milk, and others use 
 round Rice; when this last is employed a puff paste is 
 ometimes laid around the dish. 
 
 A MILLET PUDDING is made in the same way as 
 le preceding. 
 
 FOR VARIOUS OTHER BAKED PUDDINGS, 
 e Sago Pudding, page 255; A Batter Pudding, page 
 51; Plum Pudding, page 252; Hunting Pudding, page 
 53; Suet Pudding, page 254; and Bread Pudding, 
 age 250. 
 
 A VERMICELLI PUDDING is made by boiling four 
 unces of vermicelli in a pint of milk till it is soft, to which 
 "e added half a pint of cream, a little powdered cinnamon, 
 >ur ounces each of butter and sugar, and the yolks of four 
 ?gs well beaten. Bake it for an hour. 
 
 Note, without care, in boiling vermicelli in milk, it will 
 3 burnt, and consequently spoiled. 
 
 BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING. Lay slices of 
 ^ead and butter over the bottom of your baking dish; 
 rew over them currants in any quantity you please; beat 
 three or four eggs and mix them with a pint of milk, 
 which add some grated nutmeg and lemon peel, and one 
 op of oil of cinnamon on a lump of sugar. When the 
 hole is well mixed pour it into the dish upon the currants 
 id bread and butter. About half an hour will bake it. 
 Note, if you desire a richer pudding you may add candied 
 mon, orange, or citron, well minced, to it. Some will use 
 •earn instead of milk; but our first directions are by far 
 ie most wholesome. 
 
 A YORKSHIRE PUDDING. Mix four spoonsful of 
 )ur with four eggs well beaten, a little salt, and three 
 nts of milk. Butter a dripping pan and set it under beef, 
 utton, or veal, when roasting, so that the fat and gravy 
 ay drip on it. When the pudding is brown at the top, 
 it it into squares and turn them over; when the under 
 des are well browned they will be done. 
 
 Note, this is, undoubtedly, a nutritious pudding; but 
 e dyspeptic and those whose stomachs are not in a good 
 ate should avoid it. 
 
 This pudding will be much more wholesome if it be first 
 
 0 
 
 ■ 
 
264 
 
 BAKED PUDDINGS. 
 
 ink 
 
 
 boiled for an hour in a bason, then turned out, cut 
 slices, and laid under the meat as above directed. 
 
 ORANGE PUDDING. Pour upon one pound o 
 Naples biscuits a quart of boiling hot milk or cream; whei 
 cold, add to the mixture eight eggs well beaten, the out 
 side peel finely grated of two or more Seville oranges, 
 little powdered cinnamon, or, in its stead, a drop of th< 
 essential oil on a lump of sugar, to which other sugar it 
 powder must be added to make it as sweet as may be de 
 sired. Let the whole be well mixed and put into a disl 
 which must be edged with puff paste, with strings of whicl 
 the top of the pudding* should also be ornamented. Abou 
 half an hour will be sufficient to bake it. 
 
 : 
 
 
 A LEMON PUDDING is made precisely in the sam 
 way as orange pudding by omitting the grated orange pee 
 and adding grated lemon peel in its stead. 
 
 MARROW PUDDING may be made in various ways 
 the following is, we believe, the best. Pour upon half; 
 pound of Naples biscuits and half a pound of beef marrow 
 well washed, freed from its membranes, and finely minced 
 a quart of boiling hot milk; when cold, add some currants 
 grated nutmeg, lemon peel, a table spoonful of brandy i 
 the yolks of four eggs, and four eggs with both whites ani 
 yolks, all well beaten; let the rvhole be mixed well togethe 
 and put into your dish with puff paste around it. Abou 
 half an hour will be sufficient to bake it. 
 
 Note, some will add candied lemon, orange, or citron t< 
 the dish, as well as powdered cinnamon or its oil, orange 
 flower water and blanched almonds; others again add flou 
 to the mixture; we recommend none of these. 
 
 TRANSPARENT PUDDING. Add to eight eggs wel 
 
 beaten and put into a stew-pan half a pound each of buttei 
 and lump sugar finely powdered and a little grated nutmeg 
 Let it be stirred over the fire till the mixture becomes some 
 what thick; when it is cool put it into your dish with puf 
 paste around it. Half an hour will bake it. 
 
 QUINCE PUDDING. To two parts of the pulp o 
 ripe quinces add one part of powdered lump sugar, a littli 
 cinnamon in powder, or its oil, and a little powdered ginger 
 mix the whole with the yolks of eggs (in number propor 
 
PIES. 
 
 265 
 
 tioned to the size of your pudding) well beaten, and with 
 cream the same quantity in weight as the pulp of the quinces. 
 Bake it for half an hour or a little more. 
 
 Note , some will add a little flour to the above, when it 
 will require more baking and be, besides, made more un¬ 
 wholesome. 
 
 APRICOTS, PLUMS, &c. may be made into a baked 
 pudding in the same way as quinces; but we recommend 
 none of these unnecessary dishes. 
 
 PIES.— General Observations. As we are now arrived 
 at the metropolis of pastry, a few words more on that 
 much used article of food will be here permitted us. In 
 order to avoid useless repetition we must again refer to what 
 has been said in the preceding sections on puddings as well 
 as to our chapter on vegetables , and particularly in that, 
 to what is said concerning ivheat, starch , and gluten. 
 a; Wheat flour, as we have shown, enters very readily, when 
 moistened with any aqueous liquid, into a fermentation 
 Tlihvhich some persons have called the panary , under the 
 impression that it is peculiar to the process by which bread 
 afi is made; but, by the most accurate observation, the real 
 me ingredients in that fermentation appear to be chiefly, if not 
 ^entirely, the sugar which all wheat flour more or less con- 
 eiij tains, and the gluten; in fact, that the fermentation is a 
 vinous one and governed by similar laws to other vinous 
 fermentation; a proof of which is that a spirit is now ob¬ 
 tained by a peculiar process lately adopted in the baking of 
 iaj' (bread. We have seen, too, that the animal oils, such as 
 butter, lard, and suet, when mixed in suitable proportions 
 vith -wheat flour, render it much better adapted for assimila¬ 
 tion with the fluids of the stomach, and, consequently, in 
 ’ommon language, more easily digestible. 
 
 Mankind have long since become acquainted with these 
 facts, and hence the directions for the making of paste in 
 dl our cookery books. But although the facts have been 
 ong known, the principles by which those facts are regu- 
 ated remain even now in some obscurity; yet it is tolerably 
 Evident, at least to accurate observers, and to all dyspeptic 
 oersons in particular, that baked pastry does not agree so 
 veil with the stomach as that which is well boiled : the 
 •eason we apprehend to be that in boiling pastry the sugar 
 
266 
 
 PIES. 
 
 of the flour is abstracted or decomposed, while in baking it 
 the sugar remains in it and is ever ready, when mixed with 
 the fluids of the stomach, to g’O into fermentation and thus 
 to produce considerable pain and inconvenience. With the 
 more heavy pastes this is almost invariably the case, except 
 in stomachs of peculiar strength; but the lighter pastes, or 
 puff P as ^ es as they are called, are much better in this I 
 respect; indeed, we are disposed to think that the fermen¬ 
 tation to which we have alluded is in part produced during 
 the process of baking in this paste, and, consequently, that ; 
 what is called puff paste, provided it be not burnt in the ; 
 baking, is far more wholesome, which it is known to be, j 
 than the heavier pastes. But here it is also necessary to 
 note, what has been before alluded to, that pastry having 
 any of the animal oils mixed with it, if highly baked so as 
 to approach burning, becomes very unwholesome by the 
 acidity which is thus produced in it; and hence, as we have , 
 stated under baked puddings, the great care required in 
 the process of baking pies, so that only so much and no 
 more heat be administered than is necessary: too much heat 
 will be as injurious to a pie as too little; both extremes must 
 be avoided. 
 
 One general observation more. It will be found that the 
 pies which are most wholesome and which agree best with 
 the stomach are those which contain some animal food such 
 as beef or mutton; that of fruit pies the more acid are the 
 best; and that it is better to add sugar to them after they 
 are baked to make them palatable than to choose other 
 fruits which are sweeter and therefore require little or no ; 
 sugar. This arises, we believe, from the simple fact that j 
 acid fruits go sooner out of the stomach and relax the j 
 bowels; acid apples and plums are peculiarly valuable in 
 this respect. 
 
 In making pies, be particularly careful that your butter I 
 or other fat is perfectly sweet and good; and that your flour 
 is sweet; it will be also, besides, useful before using it to 
 pass it through a coarse sieve, as, thus, any clots or other 
 impurities may be readily removed. 
 
 In London, where a considerable portion of the pastry is 
 baked by the baker, less attention is necessary to be paid 
 to the regulation of the oven (see the Introduction 
 
PASTE FOR PIES. 
 
 267 
 
 something 
 
 article Oven) by the family cook; but, in the countrv, it 
 will be of the first importance in domestic economy to 
 understand well the management of it. In London the 
 ovens are now usually heated by the combustion of coal, 
 but in the country where wood can be obtained, that article 
 is greatly to be preferred for such purposes. The cook, 
 therefore, ought to know that light paste requires an oven 
 moderately heated; that raised pies (see below) require a 
 quick oven to prevent the paste from falling; and that tarts 
 which are iced should have a slow oven; still 
 must depend upon the discretion of the cook. 
 
 PUFF PASTE. Mix a pound of fresh butter with 
 three pounds of flour by rubbing them both well together; 
 make them into a paste with water enough to make it mo¬ 
 derately stiff. Roll it out thin and lay bits of butter all 
 til over it; sprinkle on a little flour, double the paste up and 
 al roll it out again; repeat the operation several times and add 
 butter till you have worked in another pound of it in addi¬ 
 ct tion to the pound which you have first mixed with the flour; 
 ikI set it by for an hour and it will be fit for any use for 
 [Mjj which you may want it. 
 
 J Note, some employ equal weights of butter and flour; 
 
 and some add to it an egg or two well beaten and a little 
 mil; gait; and some, after mixing the butter and flour into a 
 oaste, let it remain for some time before adding the other 
 oound of butter. 
 
 A PASTE FOR PIES GENERALLY. Mix three 
 minds of flour with half a pound of butter and a little salt, 
 y rubbing them well together, then make them into a 
 aste with water and roll it out so as to be uniformly 
 mooth. 
 
 Note, some add to the above one egg well beaten; others 
 ix in double the quantity of butter; others, besides the 
 utter, add four ounces of finely minced suet, and the same 
 uantity of lard; others employ salt butter well washed ; 
 thers use one pound of butter, or other fat, to tw r o pounds 
 f flour. From these the cook may select which she pleases 
 r her pie. Perhaps the best proportion will be one poun7 
 f butter or other fat to two pounds of flour; or equal parts 
 f butter and suet. But there is, in truth, no end to these 
 
 n 2 
 
RAISED PIES. 
 
 268 
 
 varieties in the ingredients for paste. See Apple Pudding, 
 page 256. 
 
 PASTE FOR TARTS. A pound of fine flour and one 
 ounce of powdered lump sugar must be made into a paste 
 with four ounces of cream made boiling hot and three ounces 
 of butter. It must be well worked together and rolled out 
 thin. 
 
 Or, the cream may be omitted and the same quantity 
 of butter employed in its stead. 
 
 Or, a pound of flour, half a pound of butter, the yolks of 
 one or more eggs well beaten, and two ounces of powdered 
 lump sugar, may be made into a paste with milk, of which 
 six ounces may, possibly, be enough. 
 
 This last may serve as a PASTE FOR CUSTARDS; 
 but for this some employ cream instead of the milk, which 
 is perhaps the best; but we are no great advocates for the 
 employment of cream in pastry in any way. 
 
 THE PASTE FOR RAISED PIES, that is, pies 
 which are made and baked without the intervention of a 
 dish, should be made stiff. It may be made of similar in¬ 
 gredients to those directed above for pies generally; but 
 some direct it to be made with lard or good dripping instead 
 of butter, the lard being melted in hot water sufficient for 
 the paste, which is to be made by pouring the water and 
 the lard into a hole made in the middle of the flour and then 
 worked together with the hand without any rolling, and 
 afterwards formed into the shape which is desired. 
 
 RAISED PIES may be made with any of the articles 
 with which other pies are made; but they are more com¬ 
 monly confined to those made of some animal food; the 
 liquid, if any, should not be put into them till they are 
 about to be put into the oven. 
 
 Note, of Raised Pies this general remark may be made, 
 that as the whole surface of the pie is exposed to the imme¬ 
 diate heat of the oven, the paste is generally rendered more 
 unfit for the digestive functions, and, therefore, improper 
 for the dyspeptic: it will be always found that in well baked 
 pies the most wholesome part of the crust is that which lines 
 the inside of the dish, and which has not, therefore, been 
 exposed to so much heat. 
 
MEAT PIES. 
 
 269 
 
 BEEF STEAK PIE. Line your dish with paste, and 
 have ready some steaks cut from the rump or any other 
 part that is tender, rather thinner than for broiling 1 ; after 
 peppering and salting, fill the dish with them, and pour into 
 it water sufficient to fill it rather more than half full. Lay 
 on the upper crust, and bake it for two or more hours. 
 
 Note, this is, perhaps, the most wholesome of all baked 
 pies. Some will add to it walnut or other catchup; others 
 chopped shalot or onion; others oysters; some will lay 
 slices of fat between each steak; some will add red wine 
 and good gravy to this pie; but our first directions are the 
 best. 
 
 MUTTON PIE. Cut a loin of mutton, which has hung 
 a few days, without the inside fat, into thin chops ; season 
 with salt and pepper; line your dish with a thin paste; (see 
 Paste for Pies generally;) fill it with the chops, and 
 pour into it water sufficient to fill it half full, or more. Put 
 ?n the outside crust and bake it; if of a moderate size, two 
 hours. 
 
 Note, some add to this pie mushroom catchup, chopped 
 onions, and slices of peeled potatoes; you may employ a 
 neck of mutton, cut into chops, instead of the loin. 
 
 Some, when the pie is baked, pour all the gravy out of it, 
 and let it stand a little while, then skim off the fat and pour 
 the gravy made boiling hot into the pie, and thus serve it up. 
 
 A VEAL PIE may be made like a mutton pie, with 
 either a loin or neck of veal, cut into thin chops, and sea¬ 
 soned with salt, grated nutmeg, or other condiments ; or a 
 parboiled brisket, cut into pieces, may be used instead of the 
 loin or neck. 
 
 Note, that the chief part of the fat should be separated 
 from the loin. Some will add slices of ham, pork, sausage- 
 meat, or veal-stuffing, to this pie, either of which will make 
 the veal more savoury. 
 
 A PORK PIE may be made in a similar way and with 
 U Isimilar joints to the preceding, but it must be seasoned 
 with condiments suitable to pork, as sage, onions, &c.; it 
 Will be also much improved if some slices of good boiling 
 kpples be laid between the slices of pork; some, too, will 
 add a little sugar. The fat may be taken from the gravy in 
 he same manner as that directed for mutton. 
 
270 
 
 MEAT PIES. 
 
 LAMB PIE is made similarly to that of veal; indeed, 
 meat pies of any kind may be made in a similar way to the 
 preceding, varying the condiments according to the kinds of 
 meat employed. 
 
 VENISON PIE or PASTY is decidedly a dish for the 
 epicurean; it is made in various w'ays; were we to direct it 
 to be made of slices of venison cut from any part that is 
 become tender, by having hung for some days after it is 
 killed, and made into a pie in a similar w ? ay to beef-steak 
 pie, with suitable condiments, the objects of wholesome 
 cookery would be answered ; but we must not let this dish 
 off so simply. The following is an old-fashioned method. 
 
 Bone a breast or neck of venison, season it with pepper 
 and salt, and put it into a pan, with the best part of a neck 
 of mutton sliced and laid over it; pour on it a glass of red 
 wine; lay a coarse paste over the w'hole and bake it for two 
 hours; take out the venison and lay it in your dish, pour 
 the gravy over it, and put also over it one pound of butter; 
 make a good puff paste and lay it about half an inch thick 
 round the edge of the dish; roll out the lid, which should 
 be a little thicker than the paste on the edge, and lay it on; 
 then roll out another lid, but thinner than the other, which 
 must be cut into flower leaves, or into what other form you 
 may choose ; lay this lid upon the other; it will require 
 two or more hours to be baked. 
 
 Note, this pie, if kept in the dish in which it has been 
 baked with the crust on it, will remain good for many days. 
 Note also, that our modern cooks stew the venison with good 
 gravy, or broth, and many condiments, such as port wine, 
 onions, pepper, salt, mace, &c., instead of previously baking 
 it as above directed, till it is three parts done, and then make 
 it into a pie and bake it. This pie is usually served up hot, 
 having a gravy made with the bones and other parts of the 
 venison not in the pasty, port wine, cayenne pepper, &c. 
 poured into it. The first pasty is designed to be eaten cold. 
 
 SQUAB PIE is a west-country dish and is there by 
 many much esteemed, but it wall require a good stomach to 
 digest it. It is made with good plain paste and mutton- 
 chops, apples, pared and cut into pieces, and onions sliced; 
 usually about equal quantities of the three ingredients are 
 employed, with some pepper and salt; water must be put 
 
GAME AND BIRD PIES. 
 
 271 
 
 into the dish, but not so much as for mutton or beef-steak 
 pie : a pie of a moderate size will require two or more hours 
 to be baked. 
 
 A HARE or RABBIT PIE may be made by first cut¬ 
 ting the animal up as it is carved when roasted or boiled, 
 and then stewing it in a jug, placed in a water-bath, with 
 i condiments, &c. adapted to each, (for which see pages 9, 
 i 47, 48, and 103,) till they are about three-fourths done; 
 when the whole, being placed in a dish lined with paste and 
 covered with the same, must be baked till it is done : a large 
 pie will require two hours : we do not, however, much ad¬ 
 mire such dishes ; a jugged hare is much better, see page 
 104. 
 
 POULTRY and other BIRD PIES may be made simi¬ 
 larly to meat pies, varying the seasoning with the bird or 
 birds employed; all of which, if large, as a turkey or 
 goose , must be either cut into quarters or boned , and then 
 be suitably seasoned, with the addition of some butter, to 
 which many will add a little broth or gravy. The paste 
 may be the same as for meat pies, but you may use puff 
 paste if you please for the more delicate birds. 
 
 Note that some slices of beef put into a Goose Pie will 
 make it more wholesome; seepage 143. A Duck Pie 
 will also be improved by a few slices of beef being placed 
 at the bottom of it. 
 
 A GIBLET PIE. Two sets of goose giblets, being 
 well cleansed, the wings and necks divided into two, and 
 the gizzards cut in two or more pieces, must be stewed, 
 except the livers, in two quarts of water, with a few whole 
 pepper-corns, a little mace, some sweet herbs, and a large 
 onion sliced, till they are tender. Line a dish with good 
 paste and lay at the bottom a rump steak, on which place 
 : the stewed giblets and the livers; strain the liquor in w hich 
 the giblets were stewed into your pie, which season with 
 salt, lay on the upper crust and bake it an hour and a half. 
 
 A PIGEON PIE is made in various ways ; the most 
 usual is, after the pigeons are well cleansed, to put 6ome 
 butter, and pepper, and salt into their bellies, then line the 
 dish with puff paste, and lay in the pigeons, putting be¬ 
 tween them the gizzards, pinions, &c. with a yolk or two 
 of an egs: boiled hard and a slice or two of beef; or you 
 
272 
 
 PATTIES. 
 
 may place a beef steak in the bottom of your dish; add 
 water sufficient to nearly fill the dish. The time of baking 
 will depend upon its size ; a small pie may require an hour 
 at least; a larger one an hour and a half or more. 
 
 A pigeon pie is sometimes made with the pigeons being 
 previously braised, (see pages 156 and 168,) afterwards 
 stewed, and then baked with suitable condiments. 
 
 PATTIES are small pies, (pdte,) and, therefore, the 
 term may be and is applied occasionally to any small pie, 
 but it is more commonly used for small pies composed of 
 paste and some kind of minced meat, fowl, fish, &c. as 
 beef, veal, turkey, oysters, lobsters, &c.* We are in¬ 
 debted for the following to Mrs. Rundell’s Cookery :— 
 
 “ FRIED PATTIES. Mince a bit of cold veal and six 
 oysters mixed with a few crumbs of bread, salt, pepper, 
 nutmeg, and a very small bit of lemon peel—add the liquor 
 to the oysters; warm all in a tosser, but do not boil; let it 
 go cold; have ready a good puff paste, roll thin, and cut 
 in round or square bits ; put some of the above between two 
 of them, twist the edges to keep in the gravy, and fry 
 them of a fine brown.” 
 
 Note that these patties may be baked. In a similar way 
 may be also made various other patties ; beef or mutton 
 minced, with suitable seasoning, omitting the oysters, will 
 make much more wholesome patties than the above. 
 
 FINE PATTIES are usually made by mincing equal 
 parts of either turkey, lamb, or chicken, and of the fat of 
 lamb, veal, or that from a loin of beef, with a little parsley, 
 thyme, and grated lemon-peel; after which, some pound 
 the whole in a mortar into a fine paste, seasoning wfith salt 
 and pepper; this is then put into square or other formed 
 sheets of puff paste, rolled out thin, closed round, and 
 baked for about twenty minutes in a quick oven. When 
 they are taken from the oven a little white gravy, seasoned 
 with pepper, salt, and shalot, must be poured into each 
 through a hole made in the top. 
 
 Note that these, as well as other patties, are occasionally 
 ornamented with paste in various ways, which the inge¬ 
 nuity of the cook will readily suggest. 
 
 * The term patties is applied sometimes to the pans in which the 
 patties are baked. 
 
1 FISH PIES. 273 
 
 Note, also, that it is usual to wash over all patties with 
 the yolk of an egg before putting them into the oven. 
 
 And note again that all patties may he either baked in 
 their paste without the intervention of a pan, having a piece 
 of paper under each ; or they may be baked in tin or 
 earthenware pans of various forms, according to the fancy 
 of the cook : those baked in pans will be generally the most 
 wholesome, because the paste will not be immediately ex¬ 
 posed to so much heat. 
 
 Observation. —Dr. Kitchiner says that “ putting- 
 meat or poultry into a pie is certainly the veiy worst way 
 of cooking it.” In this we do not exactly agree : for it 
 will be generally found that meat and poultry pies, when 
 properly baked, are by far more wholesome and agree 
 better with most stomachs than pies made of either fruit or 
 fish: all the nutritive properties of the meat are thus re¬ 
 tained ; mutton and beef-steak pies in particular form a 
 nutritive and stimulant dish by no means to be despised : 
 but pastry too much baked, as we have said above, must 
 be carefully avoided. 
 
 Of FISH PIES we are reluctant to speak, believing as 
 we do that net one of the tribe of fishes is calculated to 
 make a dish to be at all desired when compared with fish 
 prepared in other ways. Some, nevertheless, will have an 
 EEL PIE, which may be thus made :—-your eels being- 
 cleansed and skinned, or not, as you may choose, cut them 
 into pieces of about two inches in length and braise them 
 for a few minutes in a stew-pan, with a bit of butter, a 
 little chopped parsley, shalots, grated nutmeg, and some 
 lemon-juice; then put a little forcemeat at the bottom of 
 a deep dish, on which place the eels, and cover them with 
 puff paste ; when they are baked pour into the pie some 
 good gravy. 
 
 In a similar way a pie may be made with Turbot, Sole, 
 Flounder, Carp, Salmon, &c. &c. varying the sea¬ 
 soning to suit the fish. The turbot should be first par¬ 
 boiled, or cut into pieces and braised for a few minutes ; 
 the same may be done with all the other fishes. But her¬ 
 rings and sprats will require no such previous braising; 
 lobsters must be boiled first as for eating. To some of these 
 pies many will add eels, boiled or braised, and minced line, 
 
 n 3 
 
274 
 
 FRUIT PIES. 
 
 as a sort of forcemeat; to salmon a lobster forcemeat is 
 usually added. But, be it again remembered, we advise 
 none of these dishes. A word or two concerning 
 
 OYSTER PIES, and we have done. It is said that 
 ozmazome has been discovered in oysters,* and hence it 
 has been presumed that oysters are the most wholesome of 
 the fish tribe; but, whatever may be this fact in regard to 
 oysters, it is, beyond question, true that oysters suit best 
 the stomach when they undergo the slightest possible boil¬ 
 ing; and that long boiling, or baking them in a paste in 
 which it will be necessary to expose them for a considerable 
 time, even in patties, to the heat of an oven, must render 
 them more or less unfit for the stomach. If, however, 
 you desire oyster patties or pies, they will be assuredly 
 most wholesome when combined with good beef gravy; but 
 they are, however, more commonly made by beating them 
 up with the flesh of a braised eel into a paste with condi¬ 
 ments ; the pies have commonly in them, besides the oys¬ 
 ters, some parboiled sweetbreads cut into pieces. Cream 
 and white gravy are usually poured into the pie before it is 
 served up: a pretty dyspeptic mess ! 
 
 FRUIT PIES. After what has been said concerning 
 paste and pies generally, little will be required to enable the 
 cook to make fruit pies of any kind; but it should be, 
 nevertheless, remembered that acid fruits will generally 
 make better pies (that is, they will bake better, become 
 more soft and pulpy, and are more wholesome) than those 
 which may be much sweeter, and, therefore, do not re¬ 
 quire so much, if any, sugar to make them palatable. Of 
 apples this is peculiarly true. Few condiments are neces¬ 
 sary for any of these pies; apple pie in particular will be 
 found at once agreeable and wholesome by only having a 
 little grated ginger put into it before being baked. And, 
 although sugar is usually added to fruit pies in pretty large 
 quantity, the dyspeptic will find it, in general, best to avoid 
 much of that condiment. And note, particularly, that 
 cream added to any fruit pie, as a condiment, will gene¬ 
 rally render it more unfit for undergoing the process of 
 digestion. 
 
 * “ Huiires, dans lequelles on dit avoir deinontre la presence de 
 l’osmazune. Manuel d’Hygiene, par Mokin, page 128. 
 
FRUIT PIES. 
 
 275 
 
 
 APPLE PIE. Pare, core, and cut into small segments, 
 •apples sufficient to fill your dish, which line with paste of 
 any quality you may choose; see Paste, page 267. If 
 I you are not content wfith grated ginger as a condiment, 
 you may add a little grated lemon peel and a few cloves, 
 over all which you may strew some sugar, according to your 
 pleasure. Put on a crust and send it to the oven. A mo¬ 
 derate sized pie will require about an hour and a half. 
 
 Note, some put an inverted tea cup in the middle of the 
 pie to retain the syrup which is formed during the baking, 
 but this is not necessary provided the pie is not subjected to 
 too much heat; it is besides old fashioned, and with many 
 persons this will be sufficient to prevent a tea-cup’s being 
 employed, but our council of cooks recommend it, never¬ 
 theless. 
 
 Note also that some will boil the parings and cores of the 
 apples in water, with a bit of mace, till the flavour is ex¬ 
 tracted, then strain the liquor, boil it down to a small 
 quantity, and put it into the pie before sending it to 
 the oven; but this is an unnecessaiy and useless trouble. 
 Some add to it also a little quince marmalade. And some, 
 after it is baked, beat up the yolks of two or more eggs with 
 half a pint of cream, a little nutmeg and sugar, then make 
 the mixture boiling hot and pour it into the pie. A very 
 ingenious method of making a good dish unwholesome. 
 
 PEAR PIE, GOOSEBERRY PIE, CURRANT PIE, 
 PLUM PIE, CHERRY PIE, AND OTHER FRUIT 
 PIES,* may be made in a similar way to that of apple pie, 
 
 * Of the more important of all these fruits the following short 
 ! notices may be here acceptable. 
 
 APPLES are the produce of the pyrus malus, or wild apple 
 tree, a native of most of the countries of Europe as w'ell as of 
 England; but the apples found in our gardens and orchards are 
 obtained by culture ; in fact the varieties of the apple are almost 
 innumerable ; about 240 kinds are enumerated in Loudon's Gar¬ 
 dening; but many others not there named are to be obtained in 
 several of our provinces. The fruit, whether considered as a 
 dessert, a kitchen, or a cyder apple, is invaluable : those abound¬ 
 ing with more acidity than sweetness are the best for cooking. 
 The Russet coat and codling are for this purpose universally known ; 
 and there is an apple well known in some parts of Somersetshire 
 called there the penny loaf, which is excellent for dumplings and 
 pies; as soon as the fruit becomes large enough, which it is in 
 
276 
 
 FRUIT PIES. 
 
 varying a little the condiments according to your pleasure; 
 but the more simple such pies and their condiments are, the 
 better and more wholesome will they respectively be. 
 
 August, it may be employed for culinary purposes, and it con¬ 
 tinues for several months to afford an excellent supply ; the tree 
 is a good bearer, and the fruit weighs very often half a pound 
 each ; one the present writer once had that weighed fifteen 
 ounces; this fruit deserves metropolitan notice. Apples are 
 usually propagated by grafting; some, as the codling, will grow 
 by slips; new varieties are produced by seed. See Cyder for¬ 
 wards. 
 
 PEARS are the fruit of the Pyrus communis , or common pear, 
 a thorny tree growing wild in England, France, Germany, and 
 other parts of Europe ; the pear, as well as the apple, has been 
 known from early times ; the Romans had, it is said, thirty-six 
 varieties of it; at the present time the varieties are by far more 
 numerous ; Loudon mentions 115 ; for the dessert, the kitchen, and 
 for perry pears furnish many useful varieties. They are best pro¬ 
 pagated by grafting or budding ; new kinds are to obtained from 
 seed. In choosing pears for the kitchen the same rule may be 
 applied as to the apples ; the more acid for this purpose are the 
 best. 
 
 QUINCES are the produce of the Pyrus cydonia, (or by some bo¬ 
 tanists, Cydonia vulgaris) a native of Austria; it is cultivated by 
 layers, cuttings, or grafting. The fruit, when ripe, is yellow, 
 and similar in shape to many of the pear tribe; it has a singular 
 smell, and imparts, when converted into a marmalade, or other¬ 
 wise mixed with apples, a flavour which is, by many, considered 
 an improvement to apple pie. It is tolerably plentiful around 
 London, but is not much known or sought after in the provinces. 
 
 PLUMS are the fruit of the Prunus domestica, or common plum, 
 a native of, or long naturalized, in this country; its original birthr 
 place is said to be Syria, whence it was brought to Greece, and 
 thence scattered over Europe. This fruit has been known from 
 early ages ; its varieties are numerous ; the Green Gage, magnum 
 bonum, the Orleans, and the Damson plum are well known: the 
 last chiefly for pies and puddings, for which it seems, of all the 
 plum tribe, best adapted and most wholesome. Plums are pro¬ 
 pagated by grafting or budding on the suckers of healthy plum 
 stocks ; new varieties are produced by seed. In the choice of plums 
 for the kitchen the same rule must be adopted as for apples ; the 
 more acid are generally the best. 
 
 BULLACE, the fruit of the Prunus insititia, a native of this 
 country, is also sometimes employed in cookery. The SLOE, 
 the produce of the Prunus spinosa, a well known shrub, growing 
 wild every where in England, occasionally enters also into our 
 cookeries ; but it is used chiefly to give the flavour of port wines 
 to those of our home manufacture. See Wine l'orwmrds. 
 
 CHERRIES are the fruit of the Prunus Cerasus, a tree growing 
 
 I 
 
FRUIT PIES. 
 
 277 
 
 RHUBARB PIE is made with the rhubarb stalks, pre¬ 
 pared in a similar way to that directed for rhubarb pudding, 
 
 wild in many woods of this country, but improved by cultivation 
 into many and valuable varieties, the chief of which are the May 
 Duke, the White heart, Black heart, and Morello cherries; the 
 last being frequently employed for tarts and other culinary pur¬ 
 poses ; they are the most acid of all the cherry tribe, and for this 
 reason are, we believe, the most wholesome ; they ripen late, and 
 the tree is usually trained against a wall. The cherry is pro¬ 
 pagated either by grafting or budding on wild cherry stocks. 
 The cultivated cherry was, it is said, brought to Rome from 
 Cerasus, a town in Asia, (whence its specific name) in the year 
 73 of the Christian era, and introduced to this country towards 
 the end of the second century. See Wine forwards. 
 
 GOOSEBERRIES are the fruit of the Ribes grossularia, a 
 shrub which grows wild in several places in Europe, and, indeed, 
 in several places in this country; but the gooseberries obtained in 
 our gardens are the produce of cultivation ; they are found in a 
 ripe state of a yellowish white, red, and green ; there are a great 
 many varieties ; the red are usually the most acid, and, for culi¬ 
 nary purposes, the best. They are, however, often, indeed most 
 commonly, employed for pies and puddings in an unripe state. 
 Lancashire is said to be the place where the gooseberry is culti¬ 
 vated to the greatest perfection. Gooseberries, as now produced 
 in this country, are a useful and valuable fruit. See Wine 
 forwards. 
 
 RED CURRANTS are the fruit of the Ribes rubrum, a shrub 
 that grows wild in woods and thickets in some parts of this coun¬ 
 try ; but itis much improved by cultivation, and propagated usually 
 by cuttings, slips, or suckers ; cultivation has also given us the 
 white and pale red varieties. It is said that this fruit was not 
 known to the Greeks or Romans. Ripe currants are a wholesome 
 fruit if eaten in moderate quantity; they are also used largely 
 for pies, puddings, tarts, and wine. See Wine. 
 
 BLACK CURRANTS are the produce of the Ribes nigrum, a 
 shrub whose leaves, stalks, and fruit, have a strong and very 
 peculiar smell; it is a native of most parts of Europe, and abounds 
 in the woods of Russia and Siberia. The fruit is liked by some 
 persons, others will not touch it. It is hence not a very desirable, 
 nor, we believe, a very w holesome fruit, although it is occasionally 
 made into tarts, jellies, and wines. It is propagated by suckers 
 or cuttings ; this fruit has no varieties. 
 
 Among other fruits, WHORTLEBERRIES or WHORTS may 
 be mentioned as being the fruit of the Vaccinium myrtillus, a small 
 shrub, growing in many hilly and mountainous parts of this coun¬ 
 try. Whorts are of a black colour and occasionally to be obtained 
 in the London markets ; they make a pie much relished by some ; 
 the taste is, however, singular; the addition of red currants or 
 raspberries to them is considered by many a great improvement. 
 
278 
 
 MINCE PIES. 
 
 page 2,57 ; the paste may he any good one that you choose; 
 it requires to be baked the same time as an apple pie. The 
 only necessary condiment is a little sugar. 
 
 Note, this is a very pleasant variety amongst pies, and 
 is perhaps as wholesome as, if not more so, than any of 
 the tribe. 
 
 MINCE PIE is made in a variety of ways ; the follow¬ 
 ing will be found a good one. Take one pound of the inside 
 of the lean part of a loin of beef, or any other part which 
 is tender and free from membranes, &c. let it be parboiled, 
 and when cold, minced very fine ; some prefer to this cold 
 roast beef; mince also fine the same quantity of beef suet; 
 and wash and dry by the fire one pound also of currants, 
 to which some will add the same quantity of raisins stoned 
 and minced fine; take also a pound of some good boiling 
 apples, pared, cored, and minced very fine; mix the whole 
 well together, to which add one pound of powdered lump 
 or fine raw sugar, half an ounce of salt, one drachm each 
 of cloves, mace, and nutmeg, all in powder, and four 
 ounces or more each of candied citron, orange, and lemon 
 peel, (some use a much larger quantity of each than is here 
 set down,) all well minced, and the outside of two or three 
 lemons grated fine, and their juice; add to the whole, well 
 mixed, a quarter of a pint of brandy and the same quan¬ 
 tity of sherry or other good wine. If this mixture be put 
 into a stone jar, closely stopped, it will keep for many 
 
 They may be preserved as other fruit, but their peculiar flavour is 
 in part, at least, lost; from their want of much acidity they are 
 not so wholesome as CRANBERRIES, the small red fruit of the 
 oxycoccos palustris, a shrub growing in the boggy parts of this 
 country. They, as well as the AMERICAN CRANBERRY, the 
 fruit of the oxycoccus macrocarpus, now occasionally cultivated in 
 this country, form an agreeable variety for tarts, &c. Of our own 
 well known BLACKBERRIES, the fruit of the Rubus fruticosus, 
 it is scarcely necessary to say more than this, that, in their ripe 
 state, they are by no means a wholesome fruit; their deficiency of 
 acid is sometimes supplied with a portion of red currants or rasp¬ 
 berries. Blackberries need not be sought after by the cook for 
 any purpose. 
 
 The DEWBERRY, the fruit of the Rubus cccsius, another of 
 our indigenous shrubs, is much more wholesome than the black- 
 bery ; but it is scarce, and, therefore, not easily obtained. 
 
 For Raspberry and Strawberry, see forwards, under Jams. 
 For Apricots, Peaches, and Nectarines, see page 2S1. 
 
TARTS AND PUFFS. 
 
 279 
 
 months; it is known in cookery by the name of Mince 
 Meat. Your pies and tarts may be made with it and good 
 paste in a similar way to that directed for other pies and 
 tarts. 
 
 Note , that some, instead of beef, employ a parboiled 
 neat’s tongue, skinned and finely minced ; and some will 
 mince the currants fine, as well as the raisins, which fash¬ 
 ion considers a more delicate way. Some will omit the 
 meat entirely ; when this is done it is called a Lent Mince 
 Pie, in which are sometimes put hard boiled eggs, finely 
 minced, and the juice of lemons or Seville oranges, or both; 
 but if the mince-meat is to be kept for some time, the eggs 
 should be omitted, as they may putrefy: the wine and 
 brandy must, by all means, be put to it. 
 
 Note also that the more simple the mince pie is, the 
 more wholesome it must be ; therefore, if it be made with 
 equal parts of minced beef, suet, apples, and currants, it 
 will be better than when united to sugar and the candied 
 fruits, which, to dyspeptic stomachs, are peculiarly inju¬ 
 rious. There is no objection to the acids from Seville 
 oranges and lemons. 
 
 TARTS AND PUFFS are usually made with the best 
 and finest flour, concerning which and several pastes, the 
 reader will be good enough to refer to the General Obser¬ 
 vations on Pies, page 265; but we may observe here that 
 if tin patties be used for baking tarts, they should be but¬ 
 tered and have a thin crust all over their bottoms ; if glass 
 or china be employed an upper crust only is requisite, as 
 the tarts will be sent to the table in such patties : lay fine 
 sugar at the bottom, then the fruit and a little sugar at 
 ;he top. Put on the covering of paste, and bake them in 
 a slack oren. Mince-meat tarts should be baked in tin 
 patties. Tarts of preserved fruits should have a very thin 
 crust at top; they require, in baking, a very little time. 
 
 CRISP TART PASTE. Mix with spring water half 
 a pound of fine flour, a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, 
 two ounces of powdered lump or of very fine moist sugar, 
 and two eggs well beaten; knead the whole well into a 
 paste. 
 
 | PUFF PASTE is described in page 267; but we add 
 here another, which we recommend for tarts, &c.: soften, 
 
TARTS AND TARTLETS. 
 
 280 
 
 with the hands, a pound of fresh or of good salt butter ; 
 lay it in cold water; sift a pound of the best white flour, 
 and rub lightly into it half the butter, mix it into a paste 
 with cold spring water, roll it out, and then put on it, in 
 little bits, half of the remaining butter, fold up the paste, 
 roll it again, and add the rest of the butter: strew lightly 
 over it a little flour, roll it and set it by in a cool place for 
 an hour or more, till it is wanted, when it must be rolled 
 out two or three times more. 
 
 A PASTE FOR STRINGING TARTLETS is pre¬ 
 pared by cutting a bit of puff-paste into pieces, mixing it 
 with some flour and a little water, so as to make it of a 
 moderate stiffness; then let it be moulded with the hands 
 till it may be drawn into fine threads. Roll a piece out 
 three inches long and tw r o broad ; cut it into slips, draw 
 them out singly and lay them across the tarts according to 
 . your fancy. 
 
 TARTS AND TARTLETS. Line the pans with puff- 
 paste rolled thin, trim the edge with a sharp knife, and 
 fill them with raspberry or other jam, orange marmalade, 
 or stewed apple, &c. and put fine strings of paste across 
 them, according to your fancy. Let them be baked in a 
 quick oven, taking care that they are not browned too 
 much. 
 
 APPLES FOR TARTS must be pared, cored, cut into 
 small pieces, and stewed with a bit of lemon-peel, a little 
 water, and a bit of cinnamon, till they are reduced to a 
 pulp; sweeten with sugar and add other spice if you choose ; 
 rub the pulp through a hair sieve, and let it become cold 
 before it is put into the tart. 
 
 ORANGE or LEMON TARTS are directed in the 
 books to be made in many w r ays; but the simplest and the 
 most elegant will be those which are made with the outside 
 of the peel grated fine, and mixed with the pulp of the 
 apple as described in the preceding article: you may, if 
 you please, add the juice of the respective fruits, but as 
 the flavour of the essential oil, which resides only in the 
 outside peel, is the article chiefly wanted, you will, if you 
 desire your tart to taste strongly of either orange or lemon, 
 use a pretty considerable quantity of the grated peel. You 
 may take what oranges you please for the purpose, provided 
 
FRUIT TARTS. 
 
 281 
 
 he outside peel is of a fragrant smell; some use that of the 
 Seville orange, and, where much bitterness is not objected 
 o, that may be employed. 
 
 FRUIT TARTS of VARIOUS KINDS may be, after 
 vhat has been said above, most readily made ; Currants, 
 Gooseberries, Raspberries, Cherries, and Apri- 
 :ots,* are most commonly employed for this purpose. The 
 nore elegant tarts will be those which are made with the 
 Vuit preserved or made into a jam, as that of raspberries ; 
 jut currants and gooseberries, as well as raspberries, are often 
 impioyed in tarts without such preparation. The great fault 
 if jams is that there is generally too much sugar in them, 
 vhich not only destroys, in part at least, the flavour of the 
 ruit, but renders tbe tart much more unwholesome; it 
 should not be forgotten that the more acid fruits suit best the 
 mman stomach; and that even the acid fruits should not 
 ie too much alloyed with sugar. Rhubarb stalks, cut 
 small, will also make a pleasant tart; see Rhubarb Pud- 
 ling, page 257. 
 
 Note, some of the prepared fruits and jams are put at 
 >nce into their respective patties of paste, previously baked 
 
 * Apricots are the fruit of the Prunus Armeniaca, a tree of 
 he plum tribe, native of Armenia, and known in this country 
 rom about the middle of the sixteenth century. Apricots make, 
 vhen about half grown, a very pleasant pie, and are sometimes 
 licked off the trees in an unripe state for such purpose; more 
 ispecially is this done where the tree has a larger quantity of fruit 
 han it can well ripen. They are also used, when ripe, for pies, &c. 
 is well as the dessert, and are much esteemed. There are many 
 varieties; those which are woolly are least valuable. The apricot 
 s generally budded upon plum stalks, and it is usually trained 
 igainst a wall; but it has sometimes, in the south of England, 
 lorne fruit as a standard. 
 
 We may add here that Peaches belong to the almond tribe; 
 !hey are the fruit of the Amygdalus Persia, said to have been 
 irought to Europe from Persia; it has been known in England 
 from the year 1562. There are many varieties, most of which are 
 lelicious fruit, and used for the dessert as well as for pies, &c. 
 It is propagated by budding on plum stocks, seedling peaches, 
 ipricots, or almonds. The peach is always trained in this country 
 igainst a wall. The leaves are occasionally used in cookery, but 
 is they contain Prussic acid they should be employed with great 
 .autiun. 
 
 The Nectarine is a smooth skinned variety of the peach, than 
 .vhich it is by many more esteemed. 
 
282 
 
 PETIT PATTIES. — PUFFS. 
 
 in tins, without undergoing any further baking, and thin 
 are served up. Some too will pour over them cream, ; 
 luxurious, but, assuredly, an unwholesome condiment. 
 
 Note also, that although tarts are often made without i 
 covering of paste, they are also often made with a cover¬ 
 ing, and, therefore, you will adopt which method yot 
 please. 
 
 PETIT PATTIES. Take equal parts of the lean oi 
 veal, of bacon, and of beef suet; mince them fine, season 
 them with pepper and salt, and then braise them in a stew- 
 pan, with a few mushrooms chopped fine, for about ten 
 minutes. Prepare a short crust, roll it thick, and make 
 your patties about the size of a bowl of a spoon and an inch 
 deap. Put your mince meat into them, cover it with 
 crust, rub over them the yolk of an egg, and bake them. 
 
 Note, these patties make a handsome garnish for a largi 
 dish ; and note also that similar patties may be made with 
 Chicken and Ham ; with Forcemeat of various kinds 
 and with Lobsters or Oysters, to which must be added 
 the condiments appropriate to each. 
 
 SIMPLE PUFFS. Roll out moderately thin, that is, 
 about a quarter of an inch thick, some puff paste, cut it 
 with an inverted wine-glass, or other vessel, into cakes; 
 place them on a sheet of writing paper, and bake, but do 
 not broivn, them ; twenty or more minutes will be sufficient 
 in a moderately quick oven. 
 
 Note that these puffs, when cold, are excellent for the 
 purpose of serving up any preserves or jams, by which an 
 elegant dish may be made at a very little expense ; you may 
 lay your preserve or jam on the puff, in small or large 
 quantity, according to your fancy. 
 
 CURD PUFFS. Add some rennet to two quarts of 
 milk in order to coagulate it; when the curd is fully formed 
 put it into a coarse cloth in order that the whey may be 
 separated from it. Rub the curd through a hair sieve, and i 
 mix with it four ounces of butter, ten ounces of the crumb 
 of bread rubbed fine, half a nutmeg grated, the outside 
 peel of a lemon also grated, and a spoonful of wine ; add 
 sugar at your pleasure ; butter the cups, and bake them for 
 half an hour or more. 
 
 WAFERS. Take two spoonsful each of flour, sugar, 
 
rUFFS. 
 
 283 
 
 ind cream, and a spoonful of orange-flower water. Beat 
 ill these well together for half an hour. Make the wafer- 
 ;ongs hot, and pour a little of the batter in to cover the 
 rons. Bake them on a stove fire, and, while baking, roll 
 ffiem round a stick like a spigot. 
 
 Note, when they are cold they may be eaten with tea or 
 vith jellies. 
 
 SUGAR PUFFS. Beat the whites of ten eggs into a 
 ligh froth ; add to them, in a marble mortar or other con¬ 
 venient vessel, as much powdered lump sugar as will make 
 die mixture thick ; rub it for half an hour, then add some 
 :araway seeds, and take a sheet of wafers and lay it on as 
 ’iroad as a sixpence and as high as possible. Bake them in 
 1 moderately heated oven for fifteen minutes. 
 
 ALMOND PUFFS. Blanch two ounces of sweet 
 dmonds, and beat them fine with orange-flower water ; beat 
 ;he whites of three eggs to a high froth, to which add the 
 ieaten almonds and sufficient powdered sugar to make it 
 jnto a paste ; make it into cakes, lay them on paper, and 
 lake them in a slack oven. 
 
 LEMON PUFFS. Mix with a pound of finely pow 7 - 
 lered lump sugar the juice of two lemons ; beat the white 
 if an egg to a high froth, add it to the sugar and lemon 
 dice, and beat the whole for half an hour ; add now three 
 ?ggs well beaten, and the outside peel of two lemons 
 >rated fine; let the whole be well mixed, sprinkle some 
 inely powdered sugar on writing paper, and drop the 
 buffs, in small drops, upon it. Bake them in a moderate 
 Iven. 
 
 COROLLARY. 
 
 Of Pudding, Pie, of Tart and Puff, 
 
 We have, we hope, said quite enough 
 For their confection. Ere we part 
 With Pudding, Pie, and Puff and Tart, 
 
 Permit us to present to you 
 A reminiscent, brief Review 
 Of what hath been advanced : we show 
 That, in the catalogue of food. 
 
 Most of them will be ever low— 
 
 Few passable—yet fewer good. 
 
 Some will the stomach much enthral : 
 
 These we might aptly POISONS call ; 
 

 284 PANCAKES AND FRITTERS. 
 
 But, for the CHILDREN great and small. 
 Who e’er for pies and puddings bawl. 
 
 We will not now fix on the label; 
 
 Aye, let them eat while they are able. 
 
 If that they will deride what we 
 Above have stated seriously. 
 
 Assur’d that, by experience wise. 
 
 The Truth will up against them rise 
 With scorpion scourges in her hand. 
 
 Or mark'them idiots with her brand ; 
 While Pleasure, insolent and vain. 
 
 Will hand them over unto Pain! 
 
 PANCAKES and FRITTERS. Whatever might be 
 the practice of our ancestors in regard to these hastily 
 prepared dishes; whatever might be, in former times, the 
 exciting sound of the Pancake bell on Shrove Tuesday; as 
 
 Hark, I hear the pancake bell. 
 
 And fritters make a gallant smell.” 
 
 Poor Robin’s Almanac, 1684. 
 
 —whatever might be the gallantry of the smell of fritters ; 
 whatever might have been the digestive powers of the sto¬ 
 machs of the seventeenth century,— certain it now is that, 
 comparatively, few persons can partake of them, when unfer¬ 
 mented wheat flour forms an ingredient more or less large 
 in their composition, without suffering some inconvenience. 
 Flour, cream, sugar, and eggs, more especially the three 
 first mentioned, form, when made into a pancake, as pretty 
 a dyspeptic dish as the most cunning demon of indigestion 
 could possible contrive; we must, nevertheless, in accor¬ 
 dance with custom, and the inclinations of many of our 
 readers, submit a few forms for their guidance in the con¬ 
 fection of what we most cordially disapprove. 
 
 It is scarcely necessary to add that in frying both pan¬ 
 cakes and fritters, the pan, whether a common frying-pan 
 or a stewpan be employed, should be perfectly clean and 
 sweet; that the best fat for frying them is lard; but that 
 good sweet dripping in the absence of lard will answer the 
 purpose; butter, for the reasons before assigned under 
 Frying, page 70, is not desirable, although some of the 
 forms for these dishes in our cookery books direct butter in 
 particular to be employed. Take care that all the fat is 
 
PANCAKES AND FRITTERS. 285 
 
 [rained from both pancakes and fritters before they are 
 erved up. 
 
 5 PANCAKES. Mix carefully sufficient flour with a 
 part of milk to make it into a thin batter; beat up well 
 ogether six eggs, omitting the whites of three ; mix them 
 vith the prepared batter, to which add two spoonsful ot 
 bowdered ginger, a glass of brandy, and a little salt. 
 \lelt a piece of lard in a stew or frying-pan, and pour 
 nto it, when melted, sufficient batter to make a pancake 
 ibout a quarter of an inch thick, moving the pan so that 
 he batter may cover the whole of the bottom. Set the 
 >an over the Are and shake it occasionally to prevent the 
 iancake from sticking to it; when it is sufficiently browned 
 urn it or toss it over, so that the upper side may undergo 
 he same process. Serve them up with sugar strewed over 
 hem. 
 
 Note that some employ more eggs than above directed ; 
 thers no eggs at all; but in their stead fresh ale, or brisk 
 mall beer; others will not employ even milk, but use only 
 rater to make a batter with flour; and others will add a 
 arge proportion of currants to the batter; these are the most 
 ikely to render the pancakes somewhat more w'holesome, 
 >y their tendency to relax the bowels; indeed, w r e should 
 ay currants in a pancake ought never to be omitted, 
 n the place of cream it will be assuredly better to add 
 rntter, which may be combined with the batter by mak- 
 ng it sufficiently warm to melt it. We have no doubt 
 hat flour, butter, and currants, combined in proper pro- 
 tortions, will make a much more wholesome pancake, if 
 :ven mixed with water, than any form found in our 
 iookery books. Instead of ginger, nutmeg or cinnamon 
 • nay be used as a condiment; some employ allspice only. 
 
 5 CPtEAM PANCAKES. Mix the yolks of two eggs 
 pith half a pint of cream, two ounces of sugar, a little 
 sowdered cinnamon, mace, or grated nutmeg, melt a little 
 ard in your pan, and fry them very thin. Serve them up 
 With finely pow r dered sugar strewed over them. 
 
 RICE PANCAKES. Mix carefully three spoonsful 
 >f ground rice with a quart of cream; place the mixture 
 Wer a slow fire, and keep stirring it till it becomes thick ; 
 mt to it half a pound of butter and some grated nutmeg. 
 
286 
 
 PANCAKES AND FRITTERS. 
 
 Set it by to cool; when cold mix with it three spoonsful o 
 flour, a little salt, sugar, and six or eight eggs well beaten 
 Let them be fried according to art. 
 
 Note, some employ new milk instead of cream, whicl 
 last is not necessary; but a little more flour or ground ric 
 must, when milk is used, be added to the mixture. 
 
 PINK PANCAKES may be made with the preceding 
 rice pancakes, and the addition of beet-root boiled tender 
 and beaten into a fine pulp. 
 
 APPLE FRITTERS may be made with the same batte 
 as directed for Pancakes above, to which must be adde< 
 some apples, pared and cored, and then minced very fine | 
 They must be fried in a similar way to that of pancakes 
 The only condition necessary to the batter of fritters is tha 
 it must be thicker than that for pancakes, in order that i 
 may not spread too far over the pan, fritters being, o 
 course, in the form of small round cakes ; or, indeed, of am 
 other form that you may choose. They may be fried in 
 lard or good dripping. Note that some put currants as wel 
 as spices in these fritters. 
 
 Note also that peaches, pears, and many other fruits 
 may be made into fritters in the same way as apples. 
 
 PLAIN FRITTERS. Mix the grated crumb of ; 
 penny-loaf, with a pint of warm milk, into a smooth pap 
 when cold add the yolks of five eggs well beaten, thre< 
 ounces of powdered sugar, and a little grated nutmeg 
 Fry them in lard; serve them up with melted butter, wine 
 and sugar, in the dish. 
 
 Note, these are the best of the fritter tribe, becaus* 
 there is no flour in them. 
 
 RICE FRITTERS. Stir into milk, made boiling hot 
 sufficient ground rice to make it pretty thick, to which ad( 
 a pint of cream, four eggs well beaten, sug’ar, cinnamor 
 in powder, nutmeg grated, and six ounces of currants, i 
 little salt, and as much flour as will make a thick batter 
 Fry them in lard: serve them up with sugar and butter. 
 
 Note, that the forms for fritters may be greatly multi¬ 
 plied ; but a cook, with very little ingenuity, will be able 
 from what has been said, to vary them at her pleasure. 
 
287 
 
 CHAPTER XII. 
 
 UNS, CAKES AND BISCUITS; CHEESECAKES AND 
 CUSTARDS; CREAMS AND JAMS; JELLIES, 
 BLANCMANGES, SYLLABUBS, &C. 
 
 This Chapter will delight afford 
 To those who sit at Plenty’s board. 
 Regardless of whate’er we say ; 
 
 Regardless of the future day ; 
 
 Regardless of the pains and aches 
 That Indigestion often makes : 
 
 In Duty’s path still onward we] 
 
 Their faithful monitors shall be ; 
 
 And, spite of sneer, in spite of frown. 
 Keep, if we can. Dyspepsia down. 
 
 Though Gingerbread or Twelfth Cake tempt. 
 Mothers ! Ye cannot be exempt 
 From many cares your bairns to guide ; 
 Then, o’er these various cates preside ;— 
 Let knowledge lead you by the hand— 
 
 The wholesome carefully select— 
 
 The bad as carefully reject— 
 
 Thus you temptation shall withstand 
 Of many a darling, asking child 
 That often hath your soul beguil’d. 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. After the reiterated 
 'Imonitions which we have given in the tenth as well as 
 t the last chapter, relative to the employment of unfer- 
 \ented wheat flour in pastry, it can scarcely be neces- 
 iry once ipore to lift our warning voice; but, as we are 
 it tow entering upon a branch of baked cookery, into which 
 ot only wheat flour, but sugar , eggs , and several sorts 
 ? preserved fruits enter, we again caution those who are 
 esirous of avoiding unwholesome food, as well as many 
 thers who are, unfortunately for themselves, too careless 
 Dneerning it, to be extremely sparing in the use of cakes 
 d other compositions of w'hich flour, sugar, eggs, fruit, 
 d other fermentable ingredients form notable portions. 
 
 a 
 
288 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. 
 
 Anil here we may observe, following the views whicl 
 we have already taken of this subject under wheat, pagi 
 205, that the most wholesome of all the articles includec 
 in the present chapter, are those into which wheat flou 
 enters, such flour having undergone the panary fermen 
 tation. Hence, the reader will conclude that well fer 
 mented and well baked buns and biscuits must be thi 
 best suited for the stomach, provided (and we intreat tha 
 the proviso be observed) they are not loaded with othe 
 fermentable or indigestible substances, such as eggs, sugar 
 or preserved fruits, all of which are more or less disposei 
 to go into some fermentation, or to excite other unpleasan 
 action when submitted to the process of digestion, am 
 which it is the design, in previously fermenting flour, b 
 avoid. Cream is also often a mischievous article; chiefly 
 we believe, because it readily enters into a sort of acetou 
 or other fermentation that is peculiarly 7 offensive to tf 
 stomach ; but it does not appear that good fresh butte 
 carefully freed from the butter milk, or even good sal- 
 butter from which the salt has been well washed ; or tha 
 any other fat is by T any means so injurious as cream 
 indeed the animal oils of almost all kinds, the suets, lard 
 and butter in particular, appear to be, when mixed i 
 moderate quantities with pastry 7 , and when not injured b 
 excessive heat, conducive to its digestion, and in fac 
 render it more nutricious : for a certain portion of oleou 
 viands appear necessary to the well being and health of th 
 human body. 
 
 The flour used in the making of cakes is generally di 
 rected in our cookery books, to be both sifted and dried 
 but "we presume the cook will take care without being es 
 pecially reminded of it, that w'hen she uses it both thes 
 conditions are fulfilled. Sugar, too, if refined should b 
 reduced to powder and sifted; if raw, of whatever kind 
 it should be reduced by sifting or otherwise to a uniforr 
 fineness. Particular care is necessary in mixing butte 
 w'ith flour, so that it may be equally diffused throughoi 
 the mass; some for this purpose melt it in a gentle het 
 and then froth it up by beating it. Plum cakes are bdi 
 when baked in xvooden hoops, by some called garths, th 
 heat of the oven being moderated by the wood. Eggs shoui 
 
BUNS. 
 
 289 
 
 V 
 
 be beaten up just before you design to use them, as, if suf¬ 
 fered to remain long unmixed after beating, they will re¬ 
 quire to be beaten again. 
 
 It is not an easy matter to give directions for the heating 
 of an oven to bake so many and such various articles as 
 those which this chapter includes; but see what is said 
 under Baking, page 55, and also in chapter xi. page 261; 
 and, after all, much must be and will be left to the dis¬ 
 cretion of the cook ; it is, therefore, quite necessary that 
 she should well understand this branch of the art. 
 
 PLAIN BUNS. Mix well four ounces of butter with 
 two pounds of flour, to which add four ounces of good raw 
 sugar, half an ounce or less of caraway seeds, and a little 
 grated nutmeg or any other spice which you may choose; 
 add a spoonful of cream to four ounces of yeast, and as 
 much milk as will make the whole into a light paste. Set 
 it by the fire that it may ferment. Divide the paste into 
 the proper quantities for buns and bake them in a quick 
 pven. 
 
 CROSS BUNS are made similarly to the preceding; 
 but you must impress a cross upon each by a mould of tin 
 ade for the purpose. 
 
 Note , some use only allspice with these buns. 
 
 PLUM BUNS. These may be made with plain bun 
 oaste, and the addition of currants, candied-lemon, orange- 
 beel or citron minced fine, and what spices you may choose ; 
 reat them in the manner directed for plain buns. Or, if 
 rou desire very rich buns you must increase all the 
 uantities of the ingredients except the flour : namely, to 
 wo pounds of flour add half a pound of butter, half a pound 
 r more of currants, the same quantity of sugar, half the 
 uantity of candied orange, lemon, or citron, carefully 
 n inced, and spice in plenty. In this case it will be best 
 mix the yeast with the milk, flour, and sugar, first, 
 nd then set them to ferment, adding afterwards the other 
 lgredients. These may be baked in tart pans. 
 
 SEED BUNS are made by simply adding to the paste 
 rr plain buns or any other better paste, one ounce or more 
 f caraway seeds. Let it ferment and be afterwards baked 
 5 plain buns. 
 
 Note, that some are so injudicious as to colour buns and 
 
 o 
 
290 
 
 M AN C H ETS.— CAKES. 
 
 cakes with saffron or turmeric , a useless and silly practice, 
 designed, we presume, to persuade us that there are plenty 
 of eggs in their composition, ingredients which, howmuch- 
 soever we may tolerate, we are not disposed to recommend 
 in baked pastry of any kind: we shall, therefore, be happy 
 to see the practice of dyeing buns and cakes yellow 
 rescinded, and advise our pastry cooks forthwith to set the 
 examnle. 
 
 BUTTERED BUNS or MANCHETS. Set a sponge 
 (see Baking Biiead forwards,) with some fine flour, 
 water, (some use milk,) salt, and yeast to raise it with; 
 when it has risen, mix flour sulflcient with it to make 
 the whole into a thick dough, to which add fresh or good 
 salt butter in the proportion of four ounces to each pound 
 of dough ; let them be well incorporated and then make 
 it into buns or cakes, of any forms you choose—the dia¬ 
 mond or the triangular is usually preferred. Set them on 
 tins to hold about a dozen each, in a warm place for an 
 hour or more that they may rise: bakers sometimes employ 
 the crown of the oven for this purpose. Bake them in a 
 quick oven ; a few minutes are generally sufficient. When 
 they are done, brush them over with milk. 
 
 Note, that the luxurious eat them while hot from the 
 oven for breakfast; they are most wholesome when at least 
 twelve hours old ; they may be warmed again in a Dutch 
 oven. 
 
 A BERKSHIRE CAKE; Miss Withers’s.* Take 
 three pounds of such dough as the bakers in London employ 
 for their best bread ; or, if you cannot obtain the dough, 
 you must make it in the manner directed under our chapter 
 on Baking Bread, ; one pound of fresh, clarified lard, 
 half a pound of currants, and four ounces of good raw 
 sugar. Roll out the dough into a round cake three times, 
 laying on, at each rolling, the lard in small bits, the sugar 
 and the currants. When all are well incorporated, roll the 
 whole into one cake of about an inch thick. About hall 
 an hour in a quick oven will be sufficient to bake it. Place 
 
 * We are indebted for this recipe to a young lady, who is an 
 excellent cook : of this cake, as well as of other of her excellen! 
 cookery, we have often partaken. 
 
i 
 
 BUNS, CAKES, MUFFINS. 291 
 
 some thick white paper under it before putting it into the 
 oven. 
 
 Note, that you may, at your pleasure, add double the 
 quantity of currants ; and you may also divide the dough 
 into many cakes instead of one, which will make it more 
 convenient for a party. The cake, if baked ivhole, should 
 be marked in diamonds all over the surface, in order that 
 it may be more easily divided. 
 
 Here, the reader will observe, is only a small dose of 
 sugar, no eggs, nor any of the minced sweetmeats; the 
 flour is previously fermented; the lard adds to its whole¬ 
 someness ; w'e pronounce it, therefore, a very good cake. 
 And note also that good fresh butter may be employed, if 
 you choose, instead of lard. 
 
 BATH BUNS. Mix well two pounds of fine flour, with 
 ffialf a pound of fresh butter made liquid by a gentle heat; 
 add to the mixture the yolks of two and the white of one 
 egg, three table spoonsful of cream, and the same quantity 
 of good yeast all well beaten together. When the whole is 
 thoroughly incorporated, set it by to rise for about half an 
 hour, when you must add to it six ounces of caraway com¬ 
 fits, reserving a few to strew over the tops of the buns 
 when you have formed them. They should be baked upon 
 buttered tins. 
 
 Note, if the above liquids should not be sufficient to 
 form the flour into dough, a little milk or water may be 
 aided. 
 
 BATH CAKES. Mix one pound of fresh butter, and 
 i pound of flour, with a gill of yeast and some warm cream, 
 nto a paste; set it by in a warm place to rise; wffien suf¬ 
 ficiently risen, mix with it a few caraway seeds, and make 
 t into cakes about the size of French rolls or less; bake 
 hem on buttered tins. 
 
 MUFFINS. To a quart of milk made hot add six or 
 fight ounces of good yeast and fine flour sufficient to make 
 t into a batter. Let it be in a warm place for two or more 
 lours to rise. When it has well risen add to the mixture 
 bur ounces of butter mixed well with some flour ; add this 
 ind other flour sufficient to make the whole into dough, which 
 oust remain for half an hour or more. Then let it be well 
 
 neaded and formed into muffins of the size you wish; 
 
 o 2 
 
292 
 
 CRUMPETS, PIKELETS, ROLLS. 
 
 after remaining half an hour longer let them be baked in 
 a quick oven; when the under sides are done they must 
 be turned that the upper sides may be subjected to the same 
 heat. 
 
 Note, some add eggs to muffins ; but we do not approve 
 of this addition; some will bake them in a thick-bottomed 
 frying-pan over a fire ; but the heat cannot be thus so well 
 regulated ; a stewpan and a charcoal fire will be better; 
 but if this vessel be tinned, care must be taken that the 
 heat is not sufficient to melt the tin :—an iron stewpan un¬ 
 tinned will, for this purpose, be the best: an iron plate 
 will also be convenient and placed so as not to come in 
 contact with the smoke of the fire. 
 
 We may as well add concerning muffins, that how pleasant 
 soever, when fresh baked, they may be as tea cakes, they 
 are much more wholesome when suffered to become 24 
 hours old ; and then, being cut slightly around so that 
 they may be readily divided into two parts, toasted on both 
 the outsides, after which, being warmed through, they are 
 usually torn apart, not cut, and have butter applied to 
 them. The chief fault of the muffins met with in London, 
 is that they are not baked enough. 
 
 CRUMPETS are made with the same materials as 
 muffins ; but the paste must be only made into a thick 
 batter; it is usual, too, only to let it stand a quarter of an 
 hour ; and then to pour it into iron rings placed upon tins 
 and thus bake them. 
 
 Note, as the paste of crumpets is not so completely fer¬ 
 mented as muffins, they are consequently less wholesome, 
 indeed we cannot recommend them to any one; nor can 
 we recommend 
 
 PIKELETS, which are made with similar batter and in a 
 similar way too, but thinner than crumpets; these last, indeed, 
 approach the appearance and nature of a small pancake. 
 
 Note, that some, in making pikelets, use half milk 
 and half water, and most persons use eggs well beaten; 
 these will make the cake less suitable to many stomachs. 
 
 ROLLS and BREAD CAKES. It is usual in making 
 these to select the finest part of the flour employed for 
 making bread, and ferment it exactly in the same way as 
 if for bread ; but they are usually baked in a quick oven ; 
 
YEAST CAKE. — PLUM CAKE. 293 
 
 after they are baked they are brushed over, as soon as they 
 are taken out of the oven, with milk. See our article on 
 the Baking of Bread forwards. 
 
 Note, that rolls and cakes made with flour and fer¬ 
 mented in a similar way to bread, are in the same condition 
 as to their wholesomeness as recently baked and hot bread ; 
 both, as well as bread, eaten while hot suit only the 
 stomachs of those whose digestive powers are of the first 
 order. All such, as well as bread, are most wholesome 
 when tw’enty-four hours old. Recently baked bread as 
 well as recently baked bread-cakes and rolls, should be 
 religiously avoided by the dyspeptic : hot rolls are, for such, 
 an abomination ; and yet how many of such persons partake 
 of them. See Wheat, pages 204 and 206. 
 
 A FERMENTED PLUM CAKE, called sometimes 
 YEAST CAKE. Mix with five pounds of flour, half a 
 pound of sugar, an ounce of spice, consisting of grated 
 nutmeg, mace, and cloves ; beat up twenty-two eggs, 
 (leaving out sixteen of the whites,) with a pint of orange 
 flower water, to w r hich add a pint and a half of cream, in 
 which must be melted tv T o pounds and a half of butter made 
 a little more than blood warm. Mix the whole together, to 
 which add one pint of yeast. Set it by in a warm place to 
 ferment; when it has risen properly, mix with it six pounds 
 of currants and half a pound of either candied lemon, orange, 
 or citron well minced, or a proportionate mixture of all the 
 three. Bake it in a quick oven. 
 
 Note, the fermentation of the flour will render the cake 
 more wholesome ; hut there are so many other fermentable 
 materials in it that w T e cannot recommend even this cake to 
 the dyspeptic. 
 
 Note, also, that a yeast cake may be, and is made 
 in many other ways ; some will add sweet wine to it. 
 
 A PLUM CAKE is made in almost innumerable ways ; 
 every cook has some favourite form for it; the following 
 is, perhaps, one of the best; but it may be varied accord¬ 
 ing to the discretion or fancy of the operator. 
 
 Take a pound and a half of fine flour, the same quantity 
 of butter, three quarters of a pound of currants, half a 
 pound of raisins stoned and cut into pieces, eighteen ounces 
 of lump sugar, fourteen eggs, leaving out half the whites, 
 the outside peel of a large lemon grated fine, three ounces 
 
294 
 
 PLUM CAKE. -POUND CAKE. 
 
 of candied orange peel, the same quantity of candied lemon 
 peel both minced fine, a tea-spoonful of powdered mace, 
 half a nutmeg grated, a tea-cupful of brandy or white wine, 
 and two ounces of orange-flower water. Let the butter, 
 made soft by a gentle heat, be mixed with the sugar, next 
 with the eggs, previously well beaten, then with the flour; 
 let these be well beaten for an hour or more, and just before 
 you put it into the oven, mix the brandy, fruit, sweetmeats, 
 grated lemon-peel, spices, and orange-flower water. Two 
 hours and a half will be required to bake it. 
 
 Note, that many will add to this cake four ounces or 
 even more of Jordan almonds, blanched and beaten into a 
 paste with a small quantity of water. And some will add 
 powdered cinnamon or its oil to the other spices ; some will 
 add a larger proportion of currants. 
 
 A PLUM CAKE WITHOUT FLOUR. Mix well 
 a pound of sugar and a pound of fresh butter. Beat well 
 the yolks of ten eggs and five whites; put two thirds of 
 these to the previously mixed butter and sugar, and mix 
 them well together till the mass begins to be tough; add to 
 the mixture a pound and a half of currants, a quarter of a 
 pound each of candied citron, candied orange, or lemon-peel 
 all minced, and the same quantity of Jordan almonds 
 blanched and beaten fine. Beat into a pulp a quarter of a 
 pound of good raisins stoned, to which add a gill of sweet 
 wine and a spoonful of brandy; add now the remainder of 
 the eggs, and let the whole be mixed well together and 
 lightly beaten up. An hour in a quick oven will be suf¬ 
 ficient to bake it. 
 
 Note, you may add what spices you choose to this cake, 
 but a few drops of oil of cinnamon will render it the most 
 eleg’ant. Here, notwithstanding the omission of flour, there 
 is sufficient of other ingredients to render it an unwholesome 
 cake for those whose digestion is not good. 
 
 A POUND CAKE. Mix well one pound each of sugar 
 and of fresh butter ; add to the mixture nine eggs, omitting 
 five of the whites, well beaten, a pound of flour, a few 
 caraway-seeds, a quarter of a pound of candied orange-peel 
 minced, and a few currants ; let the whole be mixed to¬ 
 gether as light as possible, and baked. 
 
 A CAKE WITHOUT SEED. Mix well together one 
 pound and a half of flour, half a pound of fresh butter, 
 
SEED, TWELFTH AND BRIDE CAKES. 295 
 
 four ounces of sugar, and half a grated nutmeg-; make a 
 (hole in the middle of the flour and set a sponge with four 
 lounces of yeast and a little milk ; when it is well risen add 
 a few bits of candied lemon-peel minced, and one egg well 
 beaten. Mix the whole into a mass with a little warm milk 
 into a proper consistence. Set it by to rise in a warm 
 place and then bake it. 
 
 Note, the ingenuity of the cook will readily suggest 
 a cake of a better kind, namely, by adding a greater 
 quantity of eggs, sugar, butter, spices, and more candied 
 lemon, &c. If to such cakes the seeds of caraway be 
 added in any quantity, they are usually called seed cakes, 
 which, after this general notice, it cannot be necessary further 
 to describe. 
 
 TWELFTH CAKE. Make a hole in the middle of 
 I three pounds of flour, and set a sponge with about a gill of 
 yeast and a little warm milk ; put around it half a pound of 
 fresh butter in small lumps, ten ounces of sifted sugar, two 
 pounds of currants, a quarter of an ounce of powdered 
 cinnamon, or in its stead, a drop or two of oil on a lump 
 of sugar, two drachms each of powdered cloves, mace, and 
 nutmeg, and the same quantity each of candied orange, 
 lemon-peel, and citron, well minced. When the sponge 
 has risen, mix the whole well together with a little warm 
 milk. The hoops being- well papered and buttered, fill 
 them with the mixture and bake them. When nearly cold 
 ice them over with sugar (see Icings for Cakes forwards) 
 if you please; or you may let them be quite plain. 
 
 BRIDE CAKEvS. Add to one pound of powdered lump 
 sugar, two pounds each of fresh butter and fine flour, two 
 drachms each of powdered mace, cinnamon, and nutmeg, 
 fifteen eggs, two pounds of currants, half a pound of Jordan 
 almonds blanched and beaten into a paste ; half a pound 
 each of candied citron, orange, and lemon peel minced or 
 finely sliced, and a gill of brandy. Beat up first the butter 
 into a soft mass, and then mix the sugar with it; beat up 
 also the whites of the eggs into a good froth and mix it with 
 the sugar and butter; then beat up the yolks well, and add 
 them and the flour to the mixture, together with the spices; 
 lastly, the whole being- beaten well together mix in the 
 brandy, currants, almonds, and sweetmeats. Bake it in a 
 
296 
 
 CAKES. — GINGERBREAD. 
 
 hoop lined with paper and buttered, in a brisk oven; when 
 it has risen, cover it with paper to prevent its burning; 
 it may he kept either iced with sugar or plain. 
 
 BRISTOL CAKES. Mix well together six ounces of 
 powdered lump or fine raw sugar, with six ounces of fresh 
 butter, four whites and two yolks of eggs, and half a pound 
 of flour; to which add twelve ounces of currants. Drop 
 the mixture with a spoon on tin plates rubbed with butter; 
 bake them in a quick oven. 
 
 SHREWSBURY CAKES. Beat into a cream half a 
 pound of fresh butter, to which add half a pound of flour, 
 an egg, six ounces of sugar, and a quarter of an ounce of 
 caraway seeds. Make the whole into a paste, roll it thin, 
 stamp it with a tin cutter, prick the cakes with a fork, and 
 place them on buttered tin plates. Bake them in a slow 
 oven. 
 
 HYDE-PARK-CORNER CAKES. Mix two pounds 
 of flour with four ounces of raw sugar, and half an ounce 
 of powdered caraway-seeds ; set a sponge with half a gill of 
 yeast and a little warm milk ; when it works make some 
 milk boiling hot, to which add four ounces of fresh butter. 
 Mix the whole together and let it remain some time, then 
 roll it out and cut it into any form you choose; bake in 
 a moderate oven. 
 
 GINGERBREAD NUTS or GERMAN CAKES. 
 Mix well together four pounds of flour, half a pound of raw- 
 sugar, one ounce or more of caraway seeds, half an ounce 
 of ginger finely powdered, six ounces of fresh butter, and 
 two ounces of candied orange peel minced fine ; to a pound 
 of treacle warmed add a gill of cream; mix the w r hole into 
 a paste and let it remain in a warm place for six hours ; 
 then roll it out and form it into nuts or cakes; bake in a 
 moderate oven. 
 
 Note, that Gingerbread of various qualities may be 
 thus made by adding to the ingredients or varying their 
 quantities. And note also that such preparations may suit 
 the robust and healthy; but the valetudinarian and the 
 dyspeptic must religiously avoid them. 
 
 If, however, a wholesome Gingerbread be desired, 
 it is essential that the flour employed in it should undergo a 
 previous fermentation with yeast, similar to that for bread ; 
 
GINGERBREAD, RICE, QUEEN CAKES. 297 
 
 * and, instead of treacle, good raw or powdered lump sugar 
 ! should be employed ; the sugar ought to be in very moderate 
 ] quantity, the ginger in a much larger proportion than is 
 | above set down. We are no advocates for the employ¬ 
 ment of treacle in food at any time ; it contains mucilagi¬ 
 nous and other matters that are offensive to many stomachs ; 
 it is true that the children of our rural population con¬ 
 sume considerable quantities of Bread and Treacle ; but 
 this fact is an exception and cannot be acted upon with 
 impunity in the highly artificial state of society in our towns 
 and cities. The candied orange peel or other similar candied 
 fruits are abominations and suit only the highly robust. 
 
 DIET BREAD CAKES. Take nine eggs and then- 
 weight of sugar; break the whites into one bason and the 
 yolks into another ; beat up the w-hites into a good froth, 
 beat also the yolks and then mix them by whisking with the 
 whites ; add the sugar and the weight of five eggs of flour ; 
 let the whole be w r ell mixed, adding a few caraway seeds. 
 Bake it in a hoop. 
 
 Note, this is another of those misnamed preparations 
 against which we cannot be too much on our guard; w T hy 
 the word diet has been added to it we do not know, for he 
 w'ho employs it as a diet bread will be miserably disap¬ 
 pointed. 
 
 SPONGE BISCUITS are made with the same in¬ 
 gredients as the last preparation, omitting the caraway 
 seeds ; they must be made into small cakes or put into tin 
 pans and baked in a slow^ oven. 
 
 With the same ingredients may be made many other, 
 cakes flavoured with some particular spice in powder, such 
 as cinnamon ; as well as lemon cakes, which require 
 the outside rind of the lemon grated fine. 
 
 RICE CAKES are made in a similar w-ay to Diet 
 Bread Cakes, but instead of flour, ground rice must be 
 employed; some add to these cakes grated lemon-peel and 
 mace ; some even add also a little flour and brandy. They 
 require a brisk oven. 
 
 QUEEN CAKES. Take one pound each of pow-dered 
 lump sugar, flour, and butter; half a pound of currants, 
 eight eggs, a grated nutmeg, and one drachm each of 
 powdered cinnamon and mace. Let the whites of the eggs 
 
 o 3 
 
298 MACAROONS, RATAFIA CAKES. 
 
 be well beaten, and then mix them with the sugar and 
 butter; next, beat the yolks well and mix them with the 
 butter, &c. Lastly, the eggs, butter, and sugar being 
 well beaten together, add the flour, spices, and currants; 
 when thoroughly mixed, form the cakes into what shapes 
 you choose; sift some powdered lump sugar over them, 
 lay them on tins, and let them be baked in a quick oven. 
 
 Note , it is scarcely necessary to say after w T hat has been 
 already stated in this chapter, that Queen Cakes can only 
 be proper for the stomachs of the robust. 
 
 MACAROONS AND MASSEPAINS* are composed 
 of almonds, sugar, and eggs ; they may be, however, made 
 with these articles in various proportions; perhaps the 
 following is as good as can be given: blanch and beat into 
 a smooth pulp one pound of Jordan or other sweet almonds 
 (the French order in addition five ounces of bitter almonds) 
 with a little rose water, to which add one pound of powdered 
 lump sugar and the whites of ten eggs beaten into a good froth; 
 beat the whole well together for some time, drop the mix¬ 
 ture in small cakes upon wafer paper placed upon tin plates ; 
 sift powdered lump sugar over them and let them be baked 
 in a moderate oven.d 
 
 RATAFIA CAKES. Blanch and beat into a paste 
 half a pound each of Jordan or other sweet almonds, and of 
 bitter almonds, with a little rose water; to which add one 
 pound of powdered lump sugar, and the whites of four eggs 
 well beaten; set the mixture over a moderate fire, stirring 
 it constantly till it is scalding hot; when it is cold make it 
 into small rolls, which cut out into cakes about one inch in 
 
 * Manuel de Cuisinier, page 298. 
 
 t We think it necessary, once for all, to observe here to the 
 credit of M. Cardelli, the author of the Manuel de Cuisinier so 
 often quoted in our work, that he has added certain literal signs 
 to a considerable number of the forms in his work that indicate 
 the quality of the compound as an article of diet; thus when it is 
 difficult to digest, the letters D. A. D. (i. e. difficiles tl digerer) 
 are constantly appended to the directions ; it is scarcely necessary 
 to add that almost every article composed of similar ingredients to 
 those of macaroons and massepains, has his impress of D. A. D. 
 We hope that what we have already stated in our work renders 
 such literal marks unnecessary, being persuaded that the principles 
 which we have laid down will enable most persons to judge for 
 themselves. 
 
BISCUITS — LEMANN S. 
 
 299 
 
 diameter ; touch each cake lightly with the top of the finger 
 dipped in flour; place them on wafer paper, sift sugar over 
 them and bake in a slow oven.* 
 
 NAPLES BISCUITS are made in various ways; one 
 is as that directed for Diet Bread Cakes, omitting the 
 caraway seeds ; another is by mixing together about equal 
 parts of flour and powdered lump sugar, to which are added 
 the yolks of six eggs well beaten, and half an ounce of 
 rose water. Another is by beating up the whites of twelve 
 eggs into a snow, and the yolks wfith twenty ounces of 
 sugar, which must be mixed with twelve ounces of flour, 
 and the outside of a lemon grated fine. Fill your moulds 
 (rubbed over with melted butter) with the paste and put 
 them into the oven. 
 
 Note, this last form is called in the Manuel de Cuisinier, 
 page 297, Biscuits de Savoie, and distinguished by 
 D. A. D. See the note under macaroons. 
 
 OF BISCUITS GENERALLY, this remark may be 
 made—that the term is French, and implies twice baked; 
 but it is usually applied to various kinds of hard cakes, 
 many of which have been submitted to the long continued 
 heat of a slow oven. The most wholesome biscuits are 
 those the dough of which has, like bread, been previously 
 fermented, and which contain little if anything besides 
 wheat flour, a small portion of salt, water, of course, to 
 make it into a stiff paste, and yeast, and time sufficient to 
 produce the necessary fermentation; some will add to this, 
 butter and caraway seeds ; others, eggs and sugar; but 
 neither of these last come recommended by wholesomeness. 
 What are called, in London, Abernethys Biscuits, gene¬ 
 rally contain sugar; such are, therefore, bad for the dys¬ 
 peptic. The best biscuits with which we are acquainted 
 in London, are those made by Mr. Lemann in Thread- 
 needle-street. Some of the cookery books give a form 
 for Lemann s biscuits, but it is not to be depended upon, 
 t is probable that in addition to good flour and some yeast, 
 small portion of carbonate of ammonia is added to the 
 dough, which contributes to their lightness, and renders 
 
 For liquid Ratafias see forwards. 
 
300 TOPS AND BOTTOMS.— BISCUITS. 
 
 them more suitable to the stomach. Tops and Bottoms 
 appear to be made of the finest flour, have plenty of yeast 
 in them, and are thoroughly baked. See page 20 5 . 
 
 Note, that the form given in some of our Cookery 
 Books for tops and bottoms, in which eggs are ordered in 
 them, should not be depended upon ; the intelligent cook 
 will readily find a better method of making them ; they 
 must he, at all events, thoroughly fermented with good 
 yeast, and should be made of the best wheat flour. 
 
 It is nevertheless true, that well fermented bread or 
 biscuits will not keep so long 1 as biscuits made with flour 
 and water, and afterwards well baked, so as to be deprived 
 of all their moisture, instanced in the long period which 
 sea-biscuits will keep without spoiling; but such biscuits 
 are nevertheless suited chiefly for those whose digestion is 
 of the first order ; and the digestion of the sailor generally 
 is of this kind. 
 
 SWEET BISCUITS may be made thus ; beat well eight 
 eggs into a froth, to which add a pound of powdered sugar 
 and the outside peel of a lemon grated fine; whisk the 
 whole well together till it becomes light, then add to it a 
 pound of flour with a little rose water. Sugar them over 
 and bake them in papers or tins. 
 
 DROP BISCUITS. Beat up the whites of six eggs 
 and the yolks of ten with a spoonful of rose-water, to which 
 add ten ounces of powdered lump sugar. Beat the whole 
 well up and add one ounce of bruised caraway seeds, and 
 six ounces of flour. Drop them on wafer papers, and bake 
 them in a moderate oven. 
 
 These Forms for Sweet Biscuits may be varied a! 
 your pleasure : if you put a larger quantity of lemon peel 
 they are usually called Lemon Biscuits; if candied lemon- 
 peel minced fine, French Biscuits ; and with a trifling- 
 variation Spanish Biscuits. 
 
 A SOMERSETSHIRE BISCUIT is usually made with 
 wheat-flour fermented with yeast, and a pretty large 
 quantity of caraway seeds, to which is added a portion ot 
 butter more or less large ; they are baked in a very slow 
 oven, and are considerably raised. Next to Lemanns 
 biscuits they are the most wholesome with which we are 
 
CHEESE CAKES. 
 
 301 
 
 die 
 
 acquainted; vve never see such in London; they deserve a 
 place in our biscuit shops. 
 
 CRACKNELS do not essentially differ in their compo- 
 ition from Siveet Biscuits above ; they may be cut into 
 ny shapes, put upon tin plates rubbed over with butter, 
 he tops being- washed with whites of egg's and then baked 
 n a brisk oven. 
 
 ICINGS FOR CAKES. Whisk half a pound of fine 
 white lump sugar in powder with the whites of ten eggs, 
 'ill the whole becomes white and thick ; then spread it with 
 bunch of feathers or a spatula over the top and sides of 
 e cake ; you may set it before a clear fire, keeping it 
 turning till it is dry; but a slack oven is the best for it. 
 
 CHEESE-CAKES are made of various ingredients, 
 the chief of which is the curd obtained by mixing rennet 
 With milk ; when they are simple, they will agree with the 
 Homach pretty well; but when they consist of numerous 
 ngredients, they partake of the inconveniences of many 
 other cakes and biscuits. The following is perhaps one of 
 die best forms for them : 
 
 Turn a quart of milk with some rennet,* let it stand 
 two hours ; then press the curd from the whey very dry ; 
 oeat it fine with two ounces of fresh butter; two Naples 
 biscuits soaked in the yolks of two eggs and well beaten ; 
 grate fine the outside rind of two lemons; squeeze out their 
 juice and strain it upon the grated rind. Mix this with 
 die other ingredients, to which add some sifted sugar to your 
 :aste. Line the tins with a puff paste and fill them with the 
 above mixture ”—Y. 
 
 POTATOE CHEESE-CAKES. Beat well one pound 
 of potatoes (well boiled and freed from their skins) while 
 hot with half a pound of fresh butter, to which add the 
 orated outside rind of three large lemons and half a pound 
 of powdered lump sugar. The whole must be again beaten 
 until a white froth appears on the top. Line your tins with 
 a puff paste, fill them with the mixture, and bake twenty 
 minutes.—-Miss S. 
 
 OTHER CHEESE CAKES may be made of various 
 qualities thus: candied citron, lemon, and orange peel 
 minced fine, together with blanched Jordan almonds beaten 
 
 * See concerning Rennet under Useful Recipes forwards. 
 
 
302 
 
 CUSTARDS. 
 
 into a smooth paste, and then mixed with the above in¬ 
 gredients. 
 
 LEMON CHEESE-CAKES may be made as above, 
 but the grated lemon-peel must be very predominant. 
 
 In ALMOND CHEESE CAKES the Jordan almonds 
 blanched and beaten into a smooth paste must be pre¬ 
 dominant. 
 
 BREAD CHEESE-CAKES are made with crumb of 
 bread soaked in cream, poured on it boiling hot, for two hours, 
 to which are added eggs, butter, grated nutmeg, and cur¬ 
 rants. 
 
 CUSTARDS consist chiefly of cream and eggs, or milk 
 and eggs, with various condiments. It is obvious that very 
 few indeed of such mixtures can be wholesome ; but in 
 compliance with custom we must give a few forms for 
 them. 
 
 BAKED CUSTARDS are usually directed to be madt!|| 
 by boiling a pint of cream with some cinnamon and mace ; 
 and when cold, mixing with it four yolks and two whites of 
 eggs, a little rose and orange-flower water, half a glass of 
 sherry, and nutmeg and sugar to your palate. Pour them 
 into cups and bake them. 
 
 Note. It would be assuredly better to make the cream 
 only boiling-hot, and add the spices, powdered, to the mix¬ 
 ture ; or a drop of oil of cinnamon would be much better, 
 and save the trouble of the boiling altogether. 
 
 ALMOND CUSTARDS. Boil for ten minutes a bit 
 of cinnamon, and a blade of mace in one pint and a half of 
 cream, to which add some grated lemon-peel, nutmeg, and 
 sugar, to your taste; blanch and beat into a smooth paste 
 three ounces of Jordan and eight in number of bitter 
 almonds ; pulp them through a hair sieve, and add the pulp 
 to the cream, and the yolks of six eggs well beaten. Pour 
 the mixture into cups ; or it may be baked in one dish, with 
 a rim of puff paste around it. 
 
 PLAIN CUSTARDS may be made by sweetening with 
 sugar a quart of good fresh milk, then boiling’ up with the 
 yolks of eight eggs and the whites of four, and mixing them 
 with the milk. They may be baked in china basons or 
 cups; or the cups may be put into a large dish and have 
 boiling water poured around them till the custards are set. 
 
hr* 
 
 CLARIFIED SUGAR.— CREAMS AND JAMS. 303 
 
 ORANGE AND LEMON CUSTARDS consist of the 
 rated peel of the respective fruits, so that the taste may 
 predominate, and of cream and the yolks of eggs, sugar, 
 |he juice of the lemon or the orange, (the Seville is usually 
 preferred,) and a small quantity of brandy. The cups are 
 isually immersed in boiling water, as directed for plain 
 custards. Wine, in pretty large quantity, is sometimes 
 nixed with such custards. 
 
 CLARIFIED SUGAR. Dissolve four pounds of lump 
 Sugar in two quarts of water; when warm, add the whites 
 if three eggs beaten up with half a pint of water. Set the 
 fixture to boil, and while it is boiling take off all the scum 
 which arises; when it is perfectly clear, pass it through a 
 ine cloth. 
 
 i Note that this clarified sugar may be made of a still 
 hicker consistence by further boiling, care being taken that 
 he heat is gentle, and that the sugar does not burn. The 
 onfectioners direct no less than five degrees of such sugar: 
 he first they call candy sugar; the next brown sugar; 
 he third feathered sugar; the fourth crackled sugar; 
 ,nd the fifth caramel sugar; but it is not necessary that 
 ve should describe each of these. 
 
 SMALL DEVICES IN SUGAR may be thus made: 
 igest gum tragacanth in rose-water till it becomes soft; 
 nake it into a paste with powdered lump sugar, which may 
 >e coloured with powders or jellies, as your fancy may 
 irect; and which you may also make into any shape you 
 dease, taking care that whatever colouring matters you put 
 n are not unwholesome. You may also have moulds made 
 if any form. These devices are well suited for the tops of 
 ced and other cakes. And if you should happen to be 
 wittily or poetically inclined, some smart sentences on paper 
 aay be appended to them. 
 
 CREAMS AND JAMS are in much demand by the 
 luxurious; but those who are prudent will be extremely 
 paring in the use of such, for the most part, unnecessary 
 ,nd unwholesome dishes. We shall, notwithstanding, select 
 i few forms for those who may desire them. 
 
 TO MAKE A TRIFLE. Lay four sponge cakes, a quarter 
 fa pound of macaroons, and two ounces of ratafia cakes in 
 he trifle dish; pour on them as much sweet wine as they 
 
304 
 
 CREAMS. 
 
 will take up; let it stand three hours ; then make a riel 
 custard, and when it is cold pour it on the cakes, and let i 
 stand till you make the following- whip: put into a jug- hal 
 a pint of cream, the juice of a lemon, a glass of sweet wine 
 the white of an egg, and sugar to your taste; whisk tb 
 mixture well, and as the froth rises take it off carefully witl 
 a spoon and lay it on the top of the custard, till the disl 
 looks full and handsome. If the weather be cool it is mud 
 better to make it the day before it is wanted.—Y. 
 
 HARTSHORN CREAM. Boil four ounces of harts 
 horn shavings in three pints of water to half a pint; straii 
 it through a jelly bag, add to it a pint of cream, and let i 
 just boil up. You may then pour it into jelly glasses, and 
 let them stand till they are cold, when, by dipping th< 
 glasses into boiling water, they will slip out whole. 
 
 ICE CREAM may be prepared in many w'ays ; the fol 
 lowing is an old-fashioned method, and is, perhaps, as goo 
 as any modern process :— 
 
 Stone and scald twelve ripe apricots; let them be beatei 
 smooth in a marble mortar ; add to them six ounces o 
 powdered lump sugar, and a pint of cream, made boilim 
 hot; pass the mixture by pulping it through a hair sieve 
 Pour it into a tin having a close cover, and set it in a tul 
 of ice broken small, with a large quantity of coarse-grainei 
 salt among it; when the cream grows thick around thf 
 edges of the tin, stir it and set it in again till it is quit* 
 thick. When the cream is all frozen up, take it out of tht 
 tin and put it into the mould out of which it is to be turned 
 Put on the lid, and have ready another tub, with salt ant 
 ice as before. Put the mould in the middle, laying the ict 
 all over, around, and under it, and let it stand four or fm 
 hours. When wanted dip the tin in warm water, and i; 
 may be turned out. If in summer, it should not be turner 
 out till the moment it is asked for. 
 
 Note, that any other fruit may be iced in the saint 
 way. 
 
 And note, also, that ices thus prepared are for the 
 dyspeptic, and, we may say, for the generality of persons, ; 
 dangerous and unwholesome aliment, therefore not to bi 
 coveted by any one, how much soever the luxurious mar 
 choose to indulge in them: 
 
CREAMS. — RASPBERRY JAMS. 
 
 305 
 
 “ Count all the pleasure luxury thus attains, 
 
 'Tis what the prudent flies from and disdains.” 
 
 RASPBERRY CREAM. Bruise ripfe raspberries, press 
 e pulp through a hair sieve, and then add it to cream well 
 pipped up; some will mix with it a little powdered lump 
 
 gar. 
 
 'Note, that strawberries, cherries, gooseberries, and 
 her ripe fruits, may be mixed with cream in the same 
 
 i inner. 
 
 A cream flavoured with the outside peel of the lemon or 
 <%nge beat into a soft pulp, may be also made in the 
 ntne way ; but some, instead of cream, beat up the whites 
 t eggs with sugar and water, adding besides the outside 
 jel, the juice of the lemon or the orange; and some, too, 
 
 ii the yolks of eggs well beaten: the whole is, lastly, set 
 or the fire to thicken. A very pretty mess. 
 
 WHIPPED CREAM. Put some good cream into a 
 f 1 , with a proper quantity of powdered lump sugar, a pinch 
 c powdered gum tragacanth, and a little orange florver 
 vter; whip the whole w’ell up with a clean whisp.* Use 
 ilit your pleasure. 
 
 Note. Some add eggs and wine, and some perfume, 
 s h as musk or ambergris, and some will add a few drops of 
 eence of lemon to it, or the outside peel may be employed 
 iitead. 
 
 (The French cookery books abound in forms for such 
 cams; we shall not follow their example; an intelligent 
 e k may make them at her pleasure, such as those with 
 a ionds, with coffee, with tea; and even with celery ; 
 b the signs of D. A. D. are, in the Manuel de Cuisinier, 
 peed against them all! beware of them, therefore. 
 
 lASPBERRIf JAM is made in several ways; but the 
 bd is, perhaps, the following Let your fruit be perfectly 
 ’.*i ■, and free from moisture, and from their stems and 
 ot|er impurities ; then beat them into a pulp in a preserving 
 jut, and boil over a tolerably brisk fire, constantly stirring 
 t 11 a considerable portion of the aqueous part of the fruit 
 )$ vaporated ; add now the same weight of good raw or 
 
 * Cuisinier Royal, p. 240. 
 
306 
 
 JAMS. 
 
 lump sugar which you have of fruit, and let the whole be 
 gently for half an hour or more, if the quantity be large. 
 
 In the same way may be made Strawberry Jam. 
 
 Of Raspberries and Strawberries, both being, perhap 
 the most wholesome of all our summer fruits, the followir 
 notices may be acceptable. 
 
 The RASPBERRY is the fruit of the Rubus ideeus, 
 plant whose root is perennial but the stalks biennial. It 
 a native of several parts of England, chiefly in woods ai 
 thickets ; but it has been greatly improved by culture in tl 
 size, colour, and quality of the fruit, of w T hich there a 
 several varieties. They are readily propagated by sucker; 
 new varieties may be obtained from seed: Loudon mentioi 
 ten as already well known; among these, the twice bearii 
 raspberry , of which there is a white and red kind, a 
 esteemed from their singularity of producing tivo cro\ 
 the same year, one of which ripens in July, the second 
 September or October. The Large Antwerp Red and i 
 Large Yellow Antwerp are said to be the best, and deser 
 a wall. But very fine red, white, and yellow sorts can 
 obtained by very easy culture in almost any soil. Ras 
 berries are extensively used for tarts, jellies, jams, &c., 
 well as for the dessert. 
 
 Strawberries are the fruit of several species or varied 
 of the Fragaria, a small creeping plant, one sort of whi 
 is found in great plenty on dry banks and in woods, 
 various parts of this country. It is called Fragaria vesc 
 and has a small acidulous fruit, of which most persons co 
 versant with the country must have often partaken. B 
 the best strawberries are those improved by culture or o 
 tained from seed : they are usually, however, propagat 
 by runners. The Hautboy, the Roseberry, and t 
 Downton Strawberry are very much esteemed. The alpir 
 the Fragaria collina, is very much esteemed, it product; 
 fruit similar in taste to the wild strawberry, but larger 
 size, and which it bears throughout the summer, and ev 
 as late as November. The strawberry, as well as the ras 
 berry, is employed on numerous occasions for culinary pi 
 poses ; but it more often graces the dessert, of which it 
 ever a very agreeable and wholesome dish. The scar 
 strawberry, Fragaria virginiana, a native of Virgini 
 
JAMS — MARMALADES. 
 
 307 
 
 ie Pine Strawberry, Fragaria Grandifiora, a native 
 South America; the Chili Strawberry, Fragaria 
 'hiloensis, a native of Chili, as well as some others, are 
 )vv cultivated also in this country, and more or less es- 
 ;emed. Loudon enumerates a dozen or more kinds. 
 GOOSEBERPcY JAM is made with any kind of ripe 
 ooseberries, and half their weight of good raw or lump 
 igar; let it be treated in a similar way to that for rasp- 
 erry jam. 
 
 CURRANT JAM, whether white or red, or black, may 
 ! made in the same way as raspberry jam. 
 
 Note. Care must be taken in making all such jams that 
 ey are made sufficiently thick by boiling to keep; for if 
 ey should be too thin they will soon ferment and spoil, 
 ley should be kept in a very cool place, and be well 
 cured from the air by being tied over with a bladder oi¬ 
 lier prepared skin. 
 
 Jams from other ripe fruits may be prepared in a 
 nilar way to that directed for raspberry jam ; but note, that 
 'urns, quinces, apples, apricots, cherries, &c. must be 
 dped through a sieve, and have an equal weight of sugar 
 ded to that of the pulp; the whole being boiled afterwards 
 r some time, to render it of a uniform consistence, and 
 ore proper for being kept. 
 
 In boiling jam some of it should be put out, from time to 
 lie, in order that it may cool, and that the proper consist- 
 ice be thus ascertained; it is better to have it too hard 
 an too soft. 
 
 Note, also, that Quinces and Apples must be boiled in 
 ter till they are tender before they are pulped; when the 
 gar is added to them and boiled, they are both usually 
 lied marmalades. A marmalade of Pears maybe 
 e in a similar manner. (See forwards under our 
 apter XIII. Quince and other Marmalades.) 
 CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS ON JAMS.— 
 ere can be, we believe, no doubt that fruit taken as food 
 the most wffiolesome when fully ripe and fresh gathered; 
 d that that which is the most acidulous will be found in 
 neral best to agree with the stomach ; but as it is impos- 
 le to preserve ripe fruit in a perfect state long, our cooks 
 ;d housewives have devised the form of jams, in order to 
 
 
308 JELLIES, FLUMMERY, BLANC-MANGES. 
 
 give us the flavour of the fruit when the season of its ripe 
 mg- has a long- time passed away; sugar is, therefore, t 
 all preserving commodity; but it will be found genera! 
 that the more sugar is added to the jam, the more the pec 
 liar flavour of the fruit will be destroyed, and the jam, l 
 sides, will be rendered generally more unwholesome. T 
 less sugar, therefore, is employed in the making- of jan 
 provided it be sufficient to preserve them, the better w 
 they, on every account, be; indeed the juices of some fn 
 may be made into jams without the addition of any sug; 
 provided they be boiled down pretty stiff. 
 
 JELLIES, BLANC-MANGES, SYLLABUBS, &c. 
 Jellies are of two kinds; one of which the constituent 
 gelatine, obtained from most animals, and largely frc 
 fish, isinglass being almost pure gelatine; from hartshor 
 shavings, &c. See our Chapter on Boiling, passvA 
 particularly page 12, and also the Introduction. The ot)i 
 kind of jellies obtained from ripe fruits consists chiefly 
 mucilage, sugar, and an acid; these last are by no mea 
 so wholesome or nutricious as the jellies the chief ingredie 
 of which is gelatine ; this last being completely soluble 
 water, and may be again and again with care reduced 
 boiling or otherwise drying it, to a solid state, as we hn 
 it in ising-lass and common glue. 
 
 YELLOW FLUMMERY. Boil two ounces of isingk 
 in a pint and half of water till it is dissolved, then add 
 pint of white wine, the juice of three and the outside ri 
 of two lemons, the yolks of seven eggs well beaten, and sup 
 to your taste. Mix the whole together, and set it on t 
 fire till it boils, stirring it continually. Strain it into 
 bason, and stir it till it is almost cold; then put it into t 
 moulds.—Y. 
 
 BLANC-MANGES. The essential ingredients of the 
 are gelatine and milk, with the addition of various com 
 ments; sometimes, however, a milk of almonds, see pa; 
 310, is employed instead of cow’s milk; and sometim 
 bitter almonds are employed to impart their particul 
 flavour ; and occasionally laurel leaves in their stead ; but 
 is scarcely necessary for us to say that we strongly disa 
 prove of those last. The following forms will be sufficie 
 for the cook to prepare all such luxuries. 
 
BLANC-MANGE.—JELLIES. 
 
 309 
 
 Add to a quart of new milk an ounce of isinglass, a small 
 ick of cinnamon, a bit of lemon-peel, six bitter almonds, 
 anched and beaten into a paste ; simmer the whole over 
 e fire till the isinglass is dissolved, and strain it into a 
 Ison; let it stand for ten minutes, skim it, and pour it 
 mtly from all the sediment into another bason; when it 
 jgins to congeal, stir it well and fill the shapes. 
 
 Or, dissolve by boiling an ounce of isinglass in a pint 
 id a quarter of water, so that when the solution is com- 
 ete it may measure a pint; then add the whites of four 
 ;gs, with two spoonsful of rice-water to prevent the eggs 
 am coagulating ; sugar it to the palate, and add such 
 her condiments as you please. Strain the whole through 
 jelly-bag into a bason; when cool cut it into what shapes 
 >u please, and garnish with flowers, &c. 
 
 A more simple and wholesome blanc-inange may be thus 
 ade; dissolve an ounce of isinglass in a pint of water by 
 filing, and add half a pint of good new milk to it; you 
 ay add what condiments you please; the less sugar the 
 :tter for the dyspeptic; one drop of oil of cinnamon will 
 ivour it elegantly; or you may dissolve the isinglass by 
 mmering it gently in a pint or more of milk; care, bow¬ 
 er, must be taken to prevent the milk from burning. 
 
 A DUTCH BLANC-MANGE. Mix the yolks of six 
 ;'gs with a pint of warm and clear calves’ feet jelly; set it 
 fer the fire, and whisk it till it begins to boil. Set the 
 in in cold water, and stir the mixture till nearly cold to 
 ■event its coagulating; when it begins to thicken put it 
 to the shapes. 
 
 CALVES’ FEET JELLY. Cut scalded calves’ feet into 
 eces, and boil them gently for several hours in water suffi- 
 ent to cover them ; strain off the liquor, and the next day 
 hen it is completely cold, take off all the fat, and wash the 
 lly in warm water to make it perfectly clean. Put it now 
 to a stewpan, and dissolve it over the fire, adding such 
 indiments to it as you may choose, such as lemon or 
 eville orange juice, white wine, sugar, a bit of lemon-peel, 
 nnamon, &c. whisk up with it some whites of eggs, and 
 fil it gently for a quarter of an hour or more, taking off 
 ie skum; run it through a flannel bag till it becomes quite 
 fight. When nearly cold fill your shapes with it. The 
 
310 
 
 JELLIES. 
 
 cook will not forget that this jelly is not essentially differer 
 from one made with isinglass or hartshorn shavings, an 
 having similar condiments. 
 
 HARTSHORN JELLY. Boil half a pound of hart' 
 horn-shavings in three quarts of water till all the jelly i 
 extracted from them; strain it while hot into a saucepar 
 and add to it a pint of Rhenish or Sherry wine and 
 quarter of a pound of loaf sugar. Froth the whites of fou 
 eggs, and mix them with the jelly; boil it for a few minute; 
 and then add the juice of three or four lemons ; boil agair 
 and when curdled pour it through a jelly-bag several time 
 till it is quite clear. You may add what other condiment 
 to it you choose, and then fill your jelly-glasses with it. 
 
 Note, that these are the usual directions given in cooker 
 books for making hartshorn jelly ; but it will be assured! 
 better to add the wine to it after the jelly is clarified : hm 
 the jelly is to be improved by boiling the wine with it, v 
 cannot divine; its purest and best parts must be in gres 
 measure dissipated by the boiling and straining. 
 
 FRENCH FLUMMERY is made by dissolving an ounc 
 of isinglass by simmering it in a quart of cream ; then add 
 ing a little orange-flower and rose-water to it. 
 
 ORANGE JELLY and LEMON JELLY are made b 
 adding to hartshorn jelly a considerable quantity of th 
 sliced outside peels so as to flavour it strongly, and also th 
 expressed juices of the respective fruits; you may ad> 
 cloves and other condiments at your pleasure. 
 
 RED CURRANT JELLY. Put ripe red currants 
 freed from the stalks and other impurities, and bruised wit 
 a wooden spoon, into a preserving pan, and make then 
 scalding hot, stirring them to prevent their burning ; pres 
 out all their juice gently, and pass it through a flannel bag 
 to every pint of which add fourteen ounces of good sugar 
 boil it and skim it w T ell, and reduce it to a proper thickness 
 which may be known by setting a little of it in a cold place 
 or in a saucer placed in cold water. 
 
 BLACK CURRANT JELLY is made in a similar wa^ 
 to the preceding; but it is usual, as the juice is more viscid 
 to add four ounces of water to each pound of fruit when i 
 is scalded. 
 
 WHITE CURRANT JELLY requires double refine; 
 
gar in its preparation, which is otherwise made the same 
 currant jelly. 
 
 JELLIES from OTHER RIPE FRUITS may be all made 
 a similar way to the currant jellies. The French favour 
 s with jellies from very many of their rich fruits, but it 
 not necessary that we should describe them ; they have 
 le which they call jelly of four fruits:* namely, 
 aspberries, Strawberries, Cherries, and Gooseberries; 
 id those who are curious in such trifles may make it if 
 ley choose; we dare say that it is an agreeable one. 
 
 MILK OF ALMONDS may be made in various ways ; 
 ^ttheP/jar. Londmensis calls it mixture of almonds, 
 id directs it to be made thus : take of the confection of 
 \monds two ounces ; of distilled water, (or, if not to be 
 itained, very pure rain or river water may be used in its 
 lijead) one pint. Add the water gradually, by rubbing, to 
 ie confection of almonds, until they are well mixed ; then 
 
 fijrain. 
 
 CONFECTION OF ALMONDS is thus ordered to 
 3 made in the same Pharmacopoeia. Take one ounce of 
 veet almonds ; one drachm of bruised gum arabic; and 
 ilf an ounce of lump sugar. The almonds must be first 
 anched, and then, w T ith the gum arabic and the sugar, 
 :aten into a smooth paste. 
 
 Note that we prefer giving these directions for milk of 
 Imonds to any others which may be found in our cookery 
 loks, believing it to be the best; the confection of almonds 
 ling always kept ready made, the milk may be made at 
 ly time. 
 
 OF ALMONDS generally we may add here that they 
 re the kernels of the fruit of a tree, the Amygdalus 
 ommunis, a native of Syria and Barbary; it has been cul- 
 vated in this country since the year 1562. The almonds 
 itained in commerce are brought from various places border- 
 ig on the Mediterranean ; those called Jordan almonds 
 re esteemed the best; but Valentia almonds are, when 
 resh, very good ; they are brought to the table with raisins 
 s a dessert; they yield also a considerable portion of a bland 
 iveet oil, which does not congeal by cold as olive oil does. 
 
 
 * LeCuisinier Parisien, par Careme, page 217. 
 
312 
 
 SYLLABUBS. 
 
 Almonds contain, there is no doubt, a considerable portion < 
 nutritive matter, yet, unless they are well masticated, o 
 if eaten in large quantity, they are not a wholesome viand 
 
 BITTER ALMONDS are obtained from a variety c 
 the Amygdalus communis ; the oil of almonds obtaine 
 in the shops is produced chiefly from bitter almonds, o 
 account of their cheapness ; the bitter principle residing i 
 the skins and the cake after the oil is expressed. Fror 
 almonds, particularly from bitter almonds, a considerabl 
 portion of prussic acid may be obtained ; a distilled wate 
 from them is very pernicious. From this account of al 
 monds the reader will not suppose that we estimate them a 
 food very highly. See Liqueurs forwards. 
 
 SYLLABUBS are defined by Dr. Johnson to be curd 
 made by milking upon vinegar ; they are, however, essen 
 tially composed of some acid and new milk or cream, wit 
 spirituous and other condiments. The reader will, then 
 fore, anticipate no very wholesome dish from any of thes 
 luxuries. 
 
 A SYLLABUB UNDER THE COW. Put into 
 punch bowl a quart of good cider or strong beer, (som 
 will use both) grate to it some nutmeg, and sweeten wit 
 sugar ; then milk from the cow as much milk as will inak 
 a good froth. Let it stand an hour, strew in a few cur 
 rants washed and well soaked, and it will be ready fo 
 being served up. 
 
 Instead of cider or beer some employ wine, and add 
 besides the milk, some clotted cream, cinnamon, &c. 
 
 ANOTHER SYLLABUB. Add to a pint and a hal 
 of cream a pint of good wine, a gill of brandy, some suga; 
 and lemon juice; whisk the whole well, and take off tli 
 froth w T ith a spoon, and lay it on a sieve, fill the glasse 
 three parts full with the liquor, grate a little nutmeg on if 
 and put the froth over the tops. 
 
 A WHIPPED SYLLABUB. Rub a piece of lum] 
 sugar on the outside of a lemon; put it into a pint o 
 cream, sweeten it to your pleasure, and add the juice of ; 
 lemon, a glass of good wine or French brandy, and beat i 
 into a froth, taking it off as it rises, and lay it on a hai 
 sieve to drain ; fill some glasses half full with white, other 
 with red wine, and lay on the froth as high as possible. 
 
5 
 
 FRUMENTY. 313 
 
 Note, a chocolate mill is generally employed for making- 
 whipped syllabub. 
 
 OTHER SYLLABUBS may be made in a similar way, 
 and flavoured with what you choose, such as a considerable 
 quantity of the outside of lemon-peel, Seville oranges, 
 &c. &c. 
 
 But we have said quite enough concerning these unwhole¬ 
 some mixtures. There is, however, one other dish, a 
 favourite in the West of England, of which we must be 
 permitted to say a word, and that is called 
 
 FRUMENTY or FIRM1TY. It consists essentially of 
 grains of wheat boiled till they are tender, and then mixed 
 with milk or cream, currants, and other condiments, into 
 a thick pap. Various directions are given for this article 
 in the books ; but they are all too complex, and most of 
 them very unwholesome. In Bristol the wheat is brought 
 to the market already prepared by the farmers, so that 
 much of the trouble attendant on this dish is saved to the 
 cook. If, however, any one should be desirous of making 
 iit throughout, the process is thus to be carried on. Take 
 some good plump grains of wheat, and soak them in water 
 for several hours, when they will have swollen, and the scarf 
 skin with which the grain is enveloped may be rolled oil 
 with a coarse cloth, or, otherwise, by beating the grain. 
 When the wheat is thus freed from the scarf skin it must 
 be boiled in water till it is tender : this process will require 
 several hours, depending upon the quantity of the wheat. 
 When your wheat has arrived at the state mentioned, it 
 may be mixed with milk, currants, sugar to your palate, 
 |md some spice, such as cinnamon, nutmeg, or cloves ; you 
 may, if you choose, add cream to it; but this w-e do not 
 idvise; nor do we recommend either eggs or almonds, both 
 >f w’hich are sometimes employed. 
 
 Note, it is scarcely necessary to say that upon the 
 vheat being well boiled depends the wholesomeness of this 
 lish ; for if it be incompletely boiled, it will be more un- 
 vholesome than an incompletely boiled pudding, of which 
 lour constitutes the chief ingredient. 
 
 p 
 
314 
 
 CHAPTER XIII. 
 
 PRESERVES AND CANDIES; BONBONS AND PASTILS; 
 CONSERVES, COMPOTES, AND SYRUPS. 
 
 A warning voice still cries. Beware! 
 
 Of Bonbons, Pastils, liave a care. 
 Wliate'er may Fashion, Fancy strike. 
 
 In Candies, Compotes, or the like. 
 
 Let Prudence from the crowd select;— 
 A Gooseberry or a Plum preserve. 
 
 If simple, may the table serve— 
 
 But most the Lady will reject. 
 
 Your pardon. Babies ! great and small; 
 Our duty prompts this warning call ! 
 
 General Observations. Attend to what is said in 
 regard to the preparation of Jams in the last chapter. In 
 preserving fruit the best rule is to use only sufficient sugar 
 to keep it from fermenting, and, consequently, from spoil¬ 
 ing ; too much sugar will be sure to detract from the 
 peculiar taste of the fruit, wdiich it ought always to be your 
 object as much as possible to preserve. 
 
 All preserved fruits should be kept in a cool place, in 
 which there is, at all times, little or no variation in the 
 temperature ; they should be besides well secured from the 
 access of air, either by being put into well corked vessels, 
 or in having a bladder skin tied closely over them. With¬ 
 out such precautions they will assuredly not keep ; instead 
 of these, some recommend melted mutton suet to be poured 
 over them ; but, if this be done, they ought, nevertheless, 
 to lie additionally secured from the air by corks or bladder 
 skins. Some of the cookery books direct dried sweetmeats 
 to be kept tied down merely with paper soaked in brandy; 
 but it is far better to cover them with bladder skin; ex¬ 
 posed to the air they absorb moisture from it, and from the 
 altering temperature they soon become injured, if not 
 
PRESERVES. 
 
 315 
 
 * 
 
 spoiled : paper, be it remembered, will not wholly prevent 
 the access of air. 
 
 GOOSEBERRIES are preserved for puddings, pies, 
 and tarts in several ways; some will preserve them when 
 ripe, by scalding them in a syrup made with raw or lump 
 sugar, and, when they are cold, cork them up with the 
 syrup, in bottles or jars, and set them by in a cool place. 
 But the simplest and best way is the following. 
 
 Take full grown, but unripe, red gooseberries, gathered 
 in dry weather, and freed from the tops and tails, and put 
 them into open mouthed glass bottles ; shake them down 
 1 gently till they are quite full, and then cork them well; 
 boil them in a water-bath till the gooseberries have sunk 
 down so as to indicate that they are thoroughly scalded; 
 an hour or more will be necessary: when they are cool cut 
 oft’ the corks close to the top of the bottles, and pour melted 
 resin or wax over them so as to exclude effectually the air. 
 Keep them in a very cool place. 
 
 Note, some, instead of a water-bath, will put the bottles 
 into a slack oven. Some order water to be put with the 
 gooseberries into the bottle ; but this is a bad practice. 
 
 CURRANTS, and a few other fruits, such as cherries, 
 may be preserved in the same manner as gooseberries. For 
 the preservation of R aspberries and Strawberries. 
 See Raspberry Jam, page 305. 
 
 CURRANTS may also be preserved by scalding them in 
 a syrup made with good raw sugar. 
 
 DAMSONS and many other plums may be preserved 
 thus: let them be ripe and dry; put them into ajar tied 
 ! over with coarse paper, and place them in an oven very 
 moderately heated ; when they have been in the oven about 
 two hours, let them be taken out, and when cold put into 
 wide-mouthed bottles or jars well secured by corks from the 
 air, and set them by in a cool place. 
 
 Or they may be treated as gooseberries above, by boiling 
 I the bottles, in which they are to be kept, in a water-bath. 
 
 The larger kind of plums will be, however, best 
 preserved by being scalded in a strong syrup made with 
 good raw sugar, then put into bottles, and, when cold, 
 well corked and resined or waxed over: the syrup in which 
 
 p 2 
 
316 
 
 MARMALADES. 
 
 they have been scalded must be poured into the bottles with 
 them. 
 
 MORELLO CHERRIES may be scalded in a syrup 
 made of lump or good raw sugar, and, w r hen cold, be bot¬ 
 tled with the syrup in the same way that we have directed 
 for the larger kind of plums above. 
 
 MULBERRIES may be treated in the same way as 
 Morello Cherries. See the last article. 
 
 QUINCES, being- perfectly ripe, must be pared, cored, 
 cut into quarters or less, and scalded in a little water, till 
 they are tender; when they are cold make a strong syrup 
 of good lump sugar, which must be boiled and well 
 skimmed. Put the quinces into the syrup and boil them 
 in it for ten minutes. When cold pour off the syrup and 
 boil it down to a tolerably thick consistence; then put in 
 the quinces again and boil them for a quarter of an hour 
 more. When the whole is cold, put it into proper jars well 
 corked. Set it by in a cool place. 
 
 QUINCE MARMALADE. The quinces must be 
 treated in the same manner as for preserving, (see the 
 last article;) and when they are become thoroughly tender 
 by boiling, they must be pulped through a hair-sieve, and 
 the pulp boiled gently with the syrup till it becomes tole¬ 
 rably thick, care being taken, by continual stirring, to 
 prevent its burning. When it is cold put it into proper pots, 
 and let it be kept in a cool place. 
 
 PEACHES AND APRICOTS may be preserved in 
 the same manner as that described for the larger kind of 
 plums , which see. Some will take out the stones of wall 
 fruit before putting them to the syrup; and it is, perhaps, 
 the best way, care being taken to preserve, as much as 
 possible, the form of the respective fruits. 
 
 A MARMALADE OF PEACHES, APRICOTS, &c. 
 is made in a similar way to that directed for quinces. 
 
 MARMALADE OF APPLES or PEARS is made in 
 a similar way to that of quinces. 
 
 AN ORANGE MARMALADE is made with the 
 strained pulp and juice of Seville oranges, boiled down 
 with sugar to a thick consistence, adding towards the end 
 of the operation some of the outside peel grated fine and 
 
CAN DIES. 
 
 317 
 
 afterwards beaten into a pulp, which is the surest way of 
 obtaining the genuine flavour of the orange-peel. Some 
 will, however, cut the peel of the oranges in half, so that 
 the halves may be taken from them by the assistance of a 
 dessert spoon; when the peels are thus separated they are 
 boiled in water for some hours, the vessel being closely 
 covered. The outside skins containing the flavour must be 
 then separated from the interior parts, and cut into shreds 
 or minced, and added to the pulp, juice, and syrup, and 
 boiled altogether till it becomes transparent. 
 
 Note. Our first process is decidedly the best. But we 
 have not much to say in favour of any of these marma¬ 
 lades. 
 
 CANDIES. All fruits before thev are candied must be 
 | first preserved, and then dried in a stove or before a fire, 
 so that none of the syrup may remain in them in a liquid 
 or moist state. The sugar employed for them must be 
 boiled down to what is called candy height , see page 303. 
 The fruit must be dipped in it, and then be laid in dishes 
 in the stove to dry. 
 
 CANDIED ORANGE CHIPS. Pare the outside peel 
 of Seville oranges about a quarter of an inch broad or less; 
 let them soak in salt and water for twenty four hours, 
 then boil them in a large quantity of water till they are 
 tender; drain them in a sieve, and then boil them in a 
 syrup made in the proportion of one quart of water to a 
 pound of fine sugar till the liquor become clear; next boil 
 them in another syrup, made with fine lump sugar and as 
 much water as will dissolve it to a candy height, Take 
 them out, lay them on a sieve, grate fine lump sugar over 
 them, and set them to dry. 
 
 CANDIED ORANGE AND LEMON PEEL. Soak 
 the peels in salt and water for two days; then scald them, 
 drain them dry, and boil them in a thin syrup (made as 
 directed in the last article) till they become clear. Put 
 them now into a thick syrup made with fine sugar, and 
 simmer till the sugar candies about the peels. Lay them 
 separately on a hair sieve to drain, strew sugar over them, 
 and dry them in a slack oven or stove. 
 
 A ZEST OF CHINA OR OTHER ORANGE. 
 Pare the outside rind very thin or let it be grajted; strew 
 
318 
 
 DRIED FRUITS—BONBONS. 
 
 over it as much fine powdered sugar as its own moisture 
 will take up ; dry it in a stove or oven, moderately heated. 
 
 CANDIED GINGER. To an ounce of finely grated 
 ginger, add one pound of powdered lump sugar and as 
 much water as will dissolve it in a tossing pan, which keep 
 over a very slow fire till the sugar begins to boil, then 
 stir in another pound of sugar, and keep stirring till it 
 becomes thick. Remove it from the fire, and drop it into 
 cakes upon earthen dishes; set them in a warm place to 
 dry ; they will be white, hard, and brittle. 
 
 Note, that this preparation is of about as much impor¬ 
 tance as the preserved ginger root of the shops which is 
 imported from the West Indies; we do not recommend 
 either of them; ginger, as a condiment, is best in powder 
 without any sugar. 
 
 DRIED DAMSONS. They should be gathered when 
 completely ripe, spread upon a coarse cloth, and put into a 
 very slack oven for some days till they are dry. Keep them 
 from the air in a dry and cool place. 
 
 DRIED GREEN GAGE PLUMS. Let them be 
 thoroughly ripe, and slit them down the seam; then keep 
 them in a scalding hot thin syrup till they are tender. 
 When they are cool drain them from the syrup and put them 
 into another made thus: to one pound of fine lump sugar put 
 an ounce of water; set it over the fire and boil it almost to 
 a candy. Set them on the fire till they become scalded 
 and clear; then put them out into a bowl, and in a few 
 days lay them on proper dishes, and dry them in a stove, 
 turning them every day. 
 
 APRICOTS AND PEACLIES, after being stoned, 
 may be dried in the same manner as Green Gages: 
 Morello Cherries may also be dried in a similar way. 
 
 NUT BONBONS. Blanch in the usual way a pound 
 of Spanish or other good nuts, then grate them very fine ; 
 mix with the grated nuts a pound of powdered lump sugar; 
 melt the mixture in a stewpan over a slow fire, stirring it 
 continually till the ingredients are perfectly incorporated: 
 then pour it out on a tin plate, roll it quickly with a rolling- 
 pin, and cut it into what forms you please. 
 
 ALMOND BONBONS are made in a similar way to 
 the preceding. 
 

 BONBONS—PASTILS—CONSERVES. 319 
 
 LEMON or ORANGE BONBONS are made by merely 
 i mixing the grated outside peel with powdered sugar, and 
 | treating it the same as for other bonbons. 
 
 LEMON PASTILS. To half a pound of powdered 
 lump sugar, add the juice of three or four lemons, and 
 make the mixture into a paste somewhat thick, that it may 
 be taken up with a knife. Drop it upon paper into round 
 or flat drops about the size of a sixpence, and set them in a 
 stove moderately heated to dry: some will grate over them 
 after they are dried, a little of the outside of the lemon- 
 I peel. & 
 
 RASPBERRY PASTILS are made with the juice of 
 raspberries and sugar, in a similar way to the preceding. 
 Currant and other Pastils may be also thus prepared. 
 
 RATAFIA PASTILS may be made either with apricot 
 kernels or with equal parts of bitter and sweet almonds and 
 sugar. The kernels and almonds must be, of course, pre¬ 
 viously blanched. 
 
 CONSERVES are fruits and other vegetables preserved 
 with sugar, sometimes by merely beating them together 
 into a mass, at others by gentle boiling : they belong rather 
 to medicine than to cookery. 
 
 CONSERVE OF RED ROSES is made by taking 
 the unexpanded flower-buds of the Rosa Rubra , the French 
 or red rose well known in our gardens, plucking off the 
 heels of the buds, and then cutting off the -white portion of 
 the flower leaves, freeing them from the seeds, and 
 beating them into a paste in a marble mortar, with twice 
 their weight of powdered lump sugar. 
 
 Note, in the large way conserve of roses is prepared by 
 grinding the rose-buds in a wooden mill, peculiarly con¬ 
 structed for the purpose, which saves the labour of beating 
 them in a mortar. 
 
 Many other conserves may be made in a similar way to 
 that of roses, as of the outside rind of the Seville orange 
 grated fine. 
 
 CONSERVES OF RIPE FRUITS. These, when 
 perfectly ripe, must be made warm, and the pulp be ob¬ 
 tained from them by forcing it through a hair sieve. About 
 equal parts of sugar and pulp will be in general a proper 
 proportion for them; but it will be advisable to reduce 
 
320 
 
 CONSERVES — COMPOTES. 
 
 such conserves by boiling to a thick consistence, or they 
 will not keep well. Conserve of hips is thus pre¬ 
 pared. 
 
 Apples, Pears , and Quinces should be boiled till they 
 are tender before they are pulped to be made into a con¬ 
 serve. 
 
 Note, that all conserves should be kept from the air and 
 in a cool place. 
 
 COMPOTES are stewed fruits ; they are usually pre¬ 
 pared with sugar. They are decidedlv French dishes, 
 with which their cookery and cookery books abound. There 
 is scarcely a fruit in France which has not been occasionally 
 converted into a compote. Green almonds, green apricots, 
 gooseberries, chestnuts, raspberries, cherries, oranges, 
 ^rc SfC., are converted into compotes; the English do not 
 deal much in such articles ; there is one, however, well 
 known, which we call 
 
 GOOSEBERRY FOOL, or a Compote of Gooseber¬ 
 ries, which i^ made in various ways, but the following we 
 recommend: the fruit being picked, must be putinto ajar with 
 a small quantity of water, and kept in a boiling water bath till 
 it becomes tender; force the pulp through a hair sieve, and 
 mix half its weight or more of raw sugar with it, then 
 make the mixture scalding hot. Or you may, instead of 
 pulping the gooseberries w r hen they are stewed till they are 
 tender, beat them up well with half their weight of raw 
 sugar, and then boil the compote for a few minutes. 
 When it is cold, put it into your pots and keep them in a 
 cool place. 
 
 Note, that the curious in gooseberry fool are not con¬ 
 tented with this simple compote ; they add to it spices, lemon- 
 peel, new milk, and cream; and sometimes eggs: but 
 none of these do we recommend. 
 
 COMPOTE OF CHERRIES. Let your cherries be 
 ripe and good ; pick off the stems and soak them in cold 
 water; drain them, and then put them into a sufficient 
 quantity of strong syrup; boil for some minutes ; take off 
 the scum ; and when they are cold, put them into your 
 compote pot. 
 
 Note, that half a pound of sugar is usually necessary to 
 a pound of fruit. 
 
COMPOTES — SYRUPS — CAPILLATRE. 321 
 
 COMPOTES OF RASPBERRIES and GOOSE¬ 
 BERRIES maybe also made in the same manner as that of 
 cherries. 
 
 COMPOTES OF PEACHES and APRICOTS are 
 
 also made in a similar manner to that of cherries, except 
 that they are not left on the fire so long.* 
 
 COMPOTE OF PEARS. Put your pears in water 
 and set them over the fire, in order that you may peel them, 
 more readily; after which cut them into quarters, and put 
 them into cold water to prevent their turning black ; blanch 
 ithem in boiling water, and plunge them again into cold 
 water; clarify and boil some sugar into a thick syrup, into 
 which put your pears well drained ; then put them into 
 your compote jar, add some lemon peel to them, and pour 
 the syrup over them. 
 
 COMPOTE OF APPLES is made in a similar way to 
 ,he compote of pears, but a little more sugar is employed. 
 
 Note, that all the preceding compotes, except goose¬ 
 berry fool, are from the Manuel de Cuisinier of Cardelli; 
 ind all are marked by him B, that is good, 
 i COMPOTES OF OTHER FRUITS may be easily 
 
 nade from the preceding directions. 
 
 SYRUPS consist of sugar dissolved in water or in the 
 uices of fruits. They rather belong to the province ot‘ 
 nedicine than to cookery. We may, however, mention a 
 ; - ood rule to be adopted in the preparation of all syrups, 
 lamely, that even in dissolving sugar in water, it is desirable 
 hat the solution should be completed by more or less 
 wiling ; and that all syrups should be made of such a 
 Consistence, that when cold and poured out of a spoon or 
 up in a little stream, a globule of the syrup should rise 
 ip to the cup with an elastic rebound—a proof that the 
 vrup is thick enough to keep : if made thicker it will 
 andy, and if made thinner it will ferment. 
 
 Note, this rule is of no trifling moment , and should 
 \e always attended to by the cook. 
 
 CAP! LL AIRE. Dissolve sufficient lump sugar in 
 range-flower water to make it into a syrup : about two 
 pounds and a half of sugar will be necessary to each pint 
 
 * Manuel de Cuisinier , page 302. 
 
 p 3 
 
322 
 
 SYRUPS. 
 
 of water. Let the solution be made in a water bath at a 
 boiling’ heat; and let what scum arises from it be taken off. 
 
 Note, that capillaire is often made in a much more com¬ 
 plicated way; it is sometimes clarified with the white of 
 eggs and isingdass. 
 
 SIMPLE SYRUP is made with sugar and water in the 
 same proportions and in the same manner as capillaire, 
 which see. 
 
 SYRUP OF MULBERRIES. Dissolve two pounds of 
 sugar in a pint of the juice of mulberries, in a water-bath, 
 in a similar way as directed for Capillaire. 
 
 SYRUP OF ROSES may be made either with the 
 fresh petals of the cabbage rose, or after they are dried. 
 If with the fresh petals, pour upon half a pound of them 
 one pint of boiling water; let them stand together for six 
 hours, and then strain off the liquor ; to which add one 
 pound and a half of lump sugar ; boil it down to a proper 
 consistence. See the note below. 
 
 Note, if you use the dried petals, two ounces will be 
 sufficient for a pint of boiling water. 
 
 HONEY OF ROSES. Pour upon four ounces of the 
 dried petals of the red rose three pints of boiling water; 
 let them stand together for six hours ; strain off the liquor, 
 and add to it five pounds of honey ; boil it in a water-bath 
 to a proper consistence.* 
 
 Note, that honey requires the same treatment, when 
 made into a syrup with infusions or the juices of vegetables, 
 as sugar. See Syrups above. 
 
 And note further, that any more extended descriptions 
 of syrups must be wholly unnecessary, as a cook of the 
 plainest capacity may readily make a syrup of Clove July 
 fiowcrs, a syrup of violets, a syrup of red poppies, a 
 syrup of elder berries, 8fc. 8fC., from the directions al¬ 
 ready laid down. 
 
 * Pliar. Loud. 1824. It should be observed here that the leaves 
 of the Cabbage Rose, Rosa cenii/olia, are purgative when made 
 into a syrup ; and that the leaves of the Red Rose are astringent. 
 See Conserve of Roses, p. 319. 
 
323 
 
 CHAPTER XIV. 
 
 POTTING, COLLARING, PICKLING, SALTING, AND 
 PRESERVATION OF VEGETA ISLES. 
 
 Escap’d, at length, the paths, the tempting paths. 
 
 So thick bestrown with many a Cookery Sin: 
 
 Escap’d the luxuries of sugar, fruit— 
 
 From Twelfth cake. Orange pudding. Macaroons— 
 
 From Bonbons, Pastils, and the insidious train 
 That often bear Dyspepsia along— 
 
 Escap’d all these, the careful Housewife here 
 May with discretion talk ; here may she learn 
 What interest Knowledge, usefully employed, 
 
 ! Fails not to give ; and here Economy, 
 
 Watchful o’er waste, her daughters fair instructs 
 By Lectures of Utility, the while 
 Science, descending from her lofty height. 
 
 Prompted by foresight, modestly displays 
 Her best, most useful triumphs. 
 
 ■- 
 
 General Observations. This is assuredly one of 
 J the most important chapters of our work : for it teaches 
 various methods of preserving many articles of food, with¬ 
 out which our cookery would he very incomplete. It is 
 true that many persons residing in London , who are blest 
 with the gifts of Fortune, may, in a great measure, dis- 
 1 pense with the knowledge which it is our design in this 
 chapter to impart; as, such is now here the division of 
 labour, few of the opulent or their cooks trouble themselves 
 ' about salting either pork or beef, the dealers in the re¬ 
 spective articles supplying them with what they want upon 
 demand. But the economical housekeeper, even in Lon¬ 
 don, ought, nevertheless, to devote some attention to this 
 branch of the art; w’hile, in the country , a knowledge of 
 it is indispensable; for if you do not salt the meat your- 
 I self, or if it be not salted, at least under your superin¬ 
 tendence, you can rarely there purchase it; and, hence, 
 added to the irregular supply of fresh meat, your family 
 
324 
 
 POTTING—PPM MIC AN. 
 
 may sometimes be obliged to go without a dinner We 
 knew a lady (who was brought up and had lived long in a 
 large city) after she went to reside permanently in the 
 country, rendered very uncomfortable for some time by the 
 very different practices adopted by butchers, greengrocers, 
 &c. in the town and in the country. She ultimately, how¬ 
 ever, became a provident housewife in these respects, ne¬ 
 cessity being, in this case, as in many others, an excellent 
 teacher. To the young cook, and to young ladies in par¬ 
 ticular, we recommend this chapter, assured that, when 
 they become mothers, they will be grateful for the informa¬ 
 tion which we shall lay before them. The reader must not, 
 nevertheless, conclude that everything in this chapter is 
 valuable ; by no means. 
 
 Pickled Vegetables generally we estimate at a very 
 low rate; we shall point out, in passing, those which we 
 most approve. 
 
 Especial care must be taken that all the vessels employed 
 in the different processes described in this chapter, be per- 
 fectty clean and wholesome. The best sort of earthenware 
 for potting and pickling is that commonly called stoneware , 
 because no acids will act upon it; vessels glazed with 
 lead, such are those of the common red earthenware in 
 daily use, are decidedly bad, and for such purposes should 
 be always avoided. 
 
 POTTING is a piocess which may be occasionally very 
 advantageously employed, particularly when you should 
 happen to have a considerable quantity of fresh meat more 
 than can be immediately consumed while it is fresh ; and 
 also where the remains of poultry, game, beef, &c. may 
 be better preserved than by ordinary salting; it is also a 
 very useful process to convert animal food into a state sui¬ 
 table for the stomach without much chewing; to the old, 
 and to those who have the misfortune to be deprived of 
 their teeth, from whatever cause, it offers a valuable succe- 
 daneum for them.* 
 
 * In the voyages and journeys which have been undertaken 
 during the present, century to discover a North West Passage in 
 the higher latitudes of North America, we find that a prepared 
 animal food called Prmuican is frequently spoken of; it consists 
 of the flesh of the buffalo, moose, or rein-deer, or beef cut int@ 
 
POTTING — BEEF* 
 
 325 
 
 It is usual to pour Clarified butter , see page 23, over 
 II potted articles to the depth of a quarter of an inch or 
 nore, after they have been closely pressed down in the pot; 
 he butter should not be poured on till the meat is cold ; 
 hey should be afterwards tied over with bladder skin and 
 rown paper; and then deposited in a cool place, in which 
 ttle or no change of temperature is likely to occur. 
 
 BEEF is potted in various ways ; some direct two pounds 
 f the fillet from the inside of a rump of beef, and the 
 ame quantity of bacon minced small and thin, pounded 
 a a marble mortar, with any seasoning that you choose, 
 iicli as parsley, thyme, shalots, pepper, salt, a little essence 
 f ham, mushroom powder, spice, &c.; when they are 
 •ell incorporated and smooth, fill small pots with the mix- 
 ire, tie it over with paper, and bake in a moderate oven 
 [>r about forty minutes. When cold, pour over them clari- 
 sd butter. 
 
 Or, separate all the flesh, &C. from the bone of a shin or 
 g of beef, and bake it with a little water in ajar or other 
 mvenient vessel, till it is become fit for eating ; then take it 
 ut, separate all the membranes, gristles, &c. from it, 
 ad with the marrow' of the bone, purified by being melted 
 id strained, beat it into a smooth paste in a marble 
 ortar. You may add to it what condiments you please ; 
 at a little salt is indispensable ; put it into jars, with clari- 
 ed butter over it.—Miss H. 
 
 Note that this is excellent food on many occasions for 
 lose who cannot masticate: the gravy may be used as 
 :her beef gravy. 
 
 Or, salt some lean beef with common salt and a little 
 dtpetre, to w ; hich some add raw sugar ; let it remain in 
 .It for two days ; than, drain the brine from it, cut it 
 to pieces, and fill a stone jar with it, adding to it a little 
 
 rips, dried by the smoke of a wood fire, then beaten into pow- 
 j?r, and mixed with an equal quantity of melted l'at. It is said 
 at, wh'm well prepared, it will keep good for several years; 
 id that it is decidedly the most substantial and best adapted food 
 r the nature of the country, and for such services as the voyagers 
 jure called upon to perform. See An Abstract of Captain Back’s 
 aper on the Arctic Land Expedition in the Penny Magazine, vol, i. 
 tg-e 386. 
 
326 POTTING — VEAL, POULTRY, &C. 
 
 water, and bake it in a slow oven; or, it may be submitted 
 to the heat of a boiling’ water-bath for one or more hours, 
 depending upon the quantity of your meat; you must 
 allow, at least, one hour for every pound. It should be 
 tied closely over before it is sent to the oven or set in the 
 water-bath : some will lay a paste over it. When it is suffi¬ 
 ciently done, take it out of the jar, drain the gravy from 
 it, separate all the gristle and skin, and pound the meat 
 well into a smooth paste with clarified butter ; during the 
 process of beating add what seasoning you choose to it, 
 such as pepper, spice, &c. And, if you choose, you may 
 boil down the gravy pretty thick, and then beat it up with 
 your paste, provided that it does not make it too salt, 
 which it possibly will; your discretion in this must be your 
 guide. When well beaten, put it into pots and pour clarified 
 butter over it. 
 
 Note , that some of our cotemporaries order fresh butte, 
 to be mixed with the beef; but fresh butter contains mate¬ 
 rials which will contribute to the decomposition of the 
 animal fibre, or, at least, wall impart to it, most probably, 
 a disagreeable taste after being kept some time ; and, there¬ 
 fore, butter deprived of its butter-milk, &c. by being 
 clarified , should always be employed. See page 23. 
 
 We do not coincide with Dr. Kitchiner when he advises 
 the beef which has been boiled for gravies, &c. to be made 
 into potted beef, with the addition of condiments, a little 
 butter, and pounding in a mortar; it may be certainly 
 preserved by such means; but who can expect a savoury 
 and nutricious dish from it? His analogy of baked meat is 
 incorrect and inapplicable. 
 
 Note , also, that, in the same way as last directed, may 
 be potted Veal, Poultry, Venison, Game, Tongues. 
 &c. &c. and also already dressed meat of any kind 
 omitting, of course, the baking or water-bath ; but taking 
 care to separate all the gristles, skin, bones, &c. before 
 pounding the meat with the butter. Observe, that the 
 process of pounding will be considerably shortened if the 
 meat be previously well-minced. Observe, too, that meal 
 previously salted will keep better when potted than fresl 
 beef; your aim should, however, be to salt itonlysv.jp, 
 ciently long to keep it: for highly salted beef, as every 
 
POTTING — FISH. 327 
 
 one knows, is not so nutricious as that which is mo cleat ely 
 salted or fresh. 
 
 Ham or bacon minced and beaten up with the flesh of 
 poultry, game, veal, &c. will be found relishing and desi¬ 
 rable additions to them. 
 
 LOBSTER may be thus potted: take the meat and 
 <spawn of well boiled hen lobsters and pound them in a mor- 
 jtar with a little salt, spices in powder, cayenne or other 
 pepper, and clarified butter into a smooth paste. Press it 
 down in suitable stone jars, pour clarified butter over it, and 
 Iset them by in a cool place. 
 
 Note , in the same way Crabs, Shrimps, Prawns and 
 Crayfish may be potted. 
 
 i Note also that, in every instance, sufficient salt must be 
 added to the fish to keep it; and that, although we give 
 these directions for such potted shell-fish, we do not greatly 
 admire them in a potted state; crab, in particular, is not a 
 food that we can, even when fresh, greatly commend: we 
 do not suppose that potting will improve its nutritive pro¬ 
 perties. 
 
 EELS must be boned and cut into pieces of about three 
 inches in length ; you may skin them or not, as you please; 
 season them with salt, pepper, and spice; put them into a 
 jar and pour as much clarified butter over them as will cover 
 them : bake them in a quick oven; the time must depend 
 iupon the cpiantity; from half an hour to an hour Aviil be 
 generally enough. Take them out of the jar while hot, and 
 lay them on a coarse cloth to drain ; then pour off the but¬ 
 ter in which they were baked from the gravy of the fish, 
 '•Which lay, when cold, again in the jar, sprinkling over them 
 pome of the same seasoning ; press them down pretty close, 
 and pour the reserved butter melted over them. 
 
 LAMPREYS, SMELTS, CHAR, PIKE, SALMON, 
 and indeed every other sort of fish may be potted in a similar 
 manner to eels ; the larger fish must not only be boned, but 
 cut into suitable pieces before being baked ; and it will be 
 advisable that the seasoning should be strewed over such 
 Ijjas salmon for three or more hours before being sent to be 
 • baked. The time of baking all these must depend upon 
 1 their quantity and size. 
 
328 
 
 POTTED LAVER—COLLARING. 
 
 Note , that clarified butter must be employed with al 
 potted fish, and also to cover them. 
 
 LAVER is the leaves of the Ulva Lactuca, and, we be¬ 
 lieve, some other species of the same genus of marine plants 
 growing on rocks, &c. on the sea-shore in various parts of this 
 country : it is potted and sent to London and other towns 
 as a luxury ; many persons are extremely fond of it: it is 
 we presume, quite as wholesome as cabbage or spinach, tc 
 which last it approaches in its sensible qualities ; but it is. 
 when potted, of a much darker green than spinach ; indeed 
 it is almost black. Some of our Lady Bountifuls say that 
 it is a great sweetener of the blood ; this is childish cant; 
 but, as a marine plant, it contains, very probably, iodine, 
 w’hich is well known to be useful in some glandular swellings. 
 The persons who collect it pot it thus : It is first, after being 
 picked from the rocks, well washed in a basket with plent} 
 of water to free it from sand, &c., and then all other ex¬ 
 traneous matters, such as w'eeds, are picked out of it; it i 
 next stew r ed -with a little w'ater and some salt in an iron 
 vessel in a low heat for seven or eight hours, when it be 
 comes a kind of soft pulp ; it is stirred occasionally during 
 the stewing to prevent its burning; some put vinegar as 
 w 7 ell as salt with it. Note, this is all the preparation that 
 potted laver undergoes at Watchet , Somerset. G. B. 
 
 The laver obtained in London is brought chiefly from the 
 West of England. It may be prepared for the table in se¬ 
 veral ways ; the fashionable one is to honour it by warming 
 it in a silver saucepan over a lamp, with butter and the juice 
 of a Seville orange, and to bring it in the saucepan to the 
 table. Vinegar is sometimes taken with it; it is also some ¬ 
 times fried in cakes till it is a little browned. In Wales it 
 is mixed with oatmeal, then made into cakes, over which 
 oatmeal is shaken, they are afterwards fried brown in butter ; 
 a poached egg is also sometimes placed upon the top of each 
 cake ; it thus becomes a very pretty dish. It is also consi¬ 
 dered a luxurious garnish to roast meat. 
 
 COLLARING is not a process which the economical 
 will be very likely to adopt; it is, how'ever, one which the 
 cook will be occasionally called upon to perform, and there¬ 
 fore a few directions shall be here given concerning it. Care 
 must be taken, in collaring, that your article, whatever it be. 
 
COLLARING —BEEF — VEAL. 
 
 329 
 
 properly rolled up and well bound together ; it should also 
 } well boiled, and be quite cold before being put into the 
 ckle, in which it should lie for a night, when the binding 
 ay be taken off and the article will be ready for use. The 
 ickle may be water in which as much salt is dissolved as 
 e water will take up, to every pint of which add half a 
 nt of vinegar ; it should be enough to cover the article 
 mpletely; and it will be desirable to add new pickle to it 
 casionally, by which means your meat will keep much 
 nger. This direction applies to meat, such as veal, which 
 Is not been previously salted: beef collared according to 
 e directions below, will, if kept in a cool place, retain its 
 todness for a long while without being placed in a pickle; 
 it an immersion in pickle is, of course, the way to keep it 
 bst effectually. 
 
 To COLLAR BEEF. Bone a piece of the flank of young, 
 ader, and moderately fat beef; strip off the skin and salt 
 with common salt, a little saltpetre, and some raw sugar, 
 ixed together and well dried by the fire. Let it remain in 
 It for eight days or more, turning it every day, pouring 
 e brine which runs out of it over it also daily. Remove 
 from the pickle and wash and wipe it dry. Take now a 
 carter of an ounce each of cloves, mace, and pepper, and 
 e nutmeg, all in powder, plenty of parsley and some 
 i eet herbs minced fine. Sprinkle all these condiments (to 
 lich some will add allspice) on the beef, roll it up, put a 
 i&rse cloth around it, and tie it tight with tape. Boil it 
 plenty of water for five or more hours, depending upon 
 i size. When it is done, take it from the boiler and put it 
 a press, or between two boards with a large weight upon 
 and let it remain there till it is cold. Take it out of the 
 th, and it may be cut into what slices you please. You 
 uy garnish with raw parsley. 
 
 Note, that this collared beef is excellent for sandwiches 
 ien cold, but it is very good if eaten hot, with boiled car¬ 
 's, &c. 
 
 And note also that a breast of Vea l or Mutton may be 
 t ated in a similar manner; but veal is more commonly 
 < lared thus: 
 
 A BREAST OF VEAL. Bone it, rub it over with 
 t) yolk of an egg, and then strew over it powdered mace, 
 
330 COLLARING VENISON —MOCK BRAWN. 
 
 nutmeg’, pepper, and salt, plenty of parsley, some sweet 
 herbs and lemon peel, all finely minced, to which some will 
 add an anchovy, or some ham minced w'ith a few crumbs 
 of bread. Roll it up tight, bind it well with a fillet, wrap 
 it in a cloth, and boil it in salt and water for two hours and 
 a half. Keep it in the pickle described above under Collar¬ 
 ing, page 329. Its garnish may be pickles and parsley. 
 
 A CALF’S HEAD, with the hairs olf, but the skin left 
 on, and the bones all taken out, may be collared in the same 
 way as directed for a breast of veal; when it is boiled and 
 cold, it must be put into the same pickle. 
 
 A SIDE OF VENISON is usually converted into two 
 or three collars ; it is, of course, boned, and then larded with 
 slices of bacon three or four inches long and half an inch 
 wide; it is seasoned wfith pepper, salt, and spices. 
 The collars are then rolled up tight and put into pots having 
 some seasoning, clarified butter, and some bay leaves at the 
 bottoms of them; over the collars is also strewn some sea¬ 
 soning and butter, to which some will add beef suet chopped 
 fine ; over all is laid a coarse paste; they are baked for 
 four or more hours. The collars are then taken from the 
 pots and drained well; the fat is also separated from the 
 gravy and clarified with more butter if necessary. Let 
 the pots be made quite clean, and with seasoning and a 
 little of the fat at the bottom put in the venison and fill 
 up the pots with the clarified butter one inch above the 
 meat. Tie the pots down and keep them in a cold place. 
 When the venison is wmnted, the pot must be put into 
 boiling water, and the collar may be taken out whole. Gar¬ 
 nish with bay leaves or what else you please. 
 
 MOCK BRAWN. Boil two or more neats’ feet till 
 they are tender; pick the flesh and skin entirely from 
 the bones ; boil also a belly piece of pork, which has been 
 salted for eight days or moie with common salt and a 
 little saltpetre, till it is fit for eating, bone it and roll 
 the meat, &c. of the neats’ feet up with the pork, which 
 bind with a strong cloth and tape very tight; boil till the 
 whole is quite tender. When it is cold remove the cloth 
 and put it into a. pickle of salt and water with vinegar 
 as above. 
 
 ANOTHER MOCK BRAWN may be made by salting 
 

 COLLARING FISII. 
 
 331 
 
 | a pig’s head, cut in two, for a few days, then boiling it 
 until the bones can be readily separated from the flesh, 
 &c. and then collaring it similarly to a calf’s head, with 
 suitable seasoning of course. See calf’s head above. The 
 pickle may be the same as that directed for the last article. 
 
 COLLARED EELS The eel, not skinned, must be 
 cut open from end to end, the head and tail cut oft’, the 
 bones taken out, and the eel laid flat, over which strew 
 some sage minced very fine, ground black pepper, grated 
 nutmeg, and salt; roll it up in a little cloth, tying it 
 tight. 
 
 Boil now the head, tail, and bones, with pepper, salt, 
 cloves, mace, and a bay leaf or two, in water for fifteen 
 or more minutes ; take out the bones, and head and tail, 
 and put in your eel, which boil till it is tender. Take 
 out the eels and boil down your liquor till it is tolerably 
 thick; when it is cold put in your eel, to wffiich you may 
 add a little vineqar : the liciuor should be sufficient to cover 
 the eel. Any quantity of eels may be thus collared : it is 
 best not to take off the cloths till you want to use the eels. 
 
 COLLARED SALMON. Split a salmon in two, 
 lengthwise, and cut off the head and the tail; wash and 
 wipe it dry, rub it well all over with salt, pepper, and such 
 spices as you may choose, all in powder, roll it into a collar, 
 bind it with broad tape, and boil, or rather simmer it in 
 water with a considerable portion of salt, some pepper, and 
 a few bay leaves, from one to tw r o hours, depending upon 
 its size; take it out of the liquor, which must be boiled 
 down till it is just sufficient, with one-fourth its measure of 
 vinegar added to it, after the liquor is cold, to cover the 
 fish. 
 
 Note, that some direct the vinegar to be boiled with the 
 fish; this is highly improper, as much of it will evaporate 
 in the boiling; and what is left will combine with the lime 
 sin the fish, and be rendered, most probably, no longer acid : 
 jja proof this, that a good cook ought to have some know¬ 
 ledge of chemistry. See our general observations on vine¬ 
 gar, forwards. 
 
 OTHER FISH, such as MACKAREL, may be col¬ 
 lared in precisely the same way as salmon ; but the time of 
 i boiling must be regulated by the size of the fish ; and care 
 
332 
 
 PICKLING—VINEGAR. 
 
 must be taken that the vinegar is added to the respective 
 fish after the boilings have been completed, for the reasons 
 assigned above. 
 
 PICKLING. This is a process of which most house¬ 
 wives are very fond ; what housekeeper would be withoul 
 some store of pickles ? We have stated under our genera, 
 observations above that we estimate vegetable pickles at a 
 low rate, chiefly because by long immersion in vinegar the) 
 are rendered unsuitable to any but the strongest stomachs. 
 Vinegar is, it is true, an excellent condiment, and were the l r| 
 vegetables only employed to flavour that, there would he 
 little objection to their use for such a purpose. Vinegai 1 
 being much employed as a vehicle for pickling, it will be i 
 proper that we should enter here a little into its history it 
 (we have already mentioned it in page 186); before going f 
 into which we may just observe that stone jars are the bes ® 
 vessels for keeping pickles; and that a wooden or silvei 
 spoon should always be employed to take them out. 
 
 No copper or leaden vessels should, on any account, bejf 
 employed in the preparation of pickles; nor indeed should 
 iron ones be used, unless they are well tinned; for, although. <•' 
 iron is not unwholesome, yet vinegar will dissolve it, and 
 thus a taste, more or less disagreeable, will be imparted tc « 
 both that and, perhaps, the pickle also. 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON VINEGAR.—Th^s 
 juices of most fruits which contain more or less sugar, such 
 as apples, pears, grapes , &c. &c. naturally go into a fer- « 
 mentation soon after they are expressed; that from apples 
 when fermented is called cyder; that from pears, perry ;> 
 and that from grapes, wine. This first fermentation is 
 called the vinous fermentation, and the juices by such Pi 
 process become stimulating and intoxicating liquors; and 1 
 they are strong or weak in the exact proportion in which 
 sugar is contained in them in large or in small quantity; 
 that ingredient being the one essential to the production oi 
 spirit or alcohol, on which their intoxicating as well as theii 
 stimulating properties chiefly depend. In the vinous fer¬ 
 mentation a large quantity of carbonic acid gas is disen 
 
 gaged, which gives to all fermented wines, as well as malt 
 liquors, (which are a sort of wines obtained by another 
 process,) their sprightliness. All wines, if strong, will 
 
VINEGAR. 
 
 333 
 
 teep, when excluded from the air, for a period more or less 
 long; but exposed to air and moderate heat, such as that 
 )f our summers, they go into another fermentation, which 
 js called the acetous; and hence become various kinds of 
 Vinegar , which word is a corruption from the French vin 
 n ligre , that is, sour wine. In this second fermentation 
 mother change is made in the ingredients of the w’ine; 
 « )xygen is absorbed from the atmosphere, and the spirit 
 Dj vhich the wine contains becomes thus converted into 
 :b inegar. Hence it is essential to know that no g’ood wine 
 b ian be made, under ordinary circumstances, into good 
 inegar, without exposure for some time to the air. But 
 1 inegar may be made with sugar and water; yes, but here 
 he vinous and the acetous fermentations follow closely 
 ipon each other. For more concerning fermentation, see 
 ur.articles Bread, Brewing, Wine, &c. 
 
 We may also just add here that vinegar is called by the 
 lemists the acetic acid, because acetum is the Latin name 
 jpr vinegar; and that, although all the vinegar found in 
 ommerce is the product of art, the acetic acid nevertheless 
 xists in the juice of several plants. 
 
 I VINEGAR IN THE LARGE WAY is obtained in this 
 ountry either from an infusion of malt, termed wort , which 
 j fermented in casks with their bungs out, the hole being 
 Isually covered with a tile to admit the air and prevent the 
 pcess of rain, and kept at a temperature of 84° of Fahren- 
 eit’s thermometer. Thus obtained, it is of a reddish brown 
 alour, and sour, of course; the maker is permitted to mix 
 ith it one-thousandth part of its -weight of sulphuric acid, 
 lat is, what is commonly called oil of vitriol ;* such vinegar 
 not therefore pure acetic acid; but we believe, nevertheless, 
 lat such acid is equally as wholesome as that which is pure. 
 
 Or, negar is now obtained by distilling wood , either 
 reen or dry, even the oak of old vessels is occasionally 
 uployed; thus obtained, and being well purified by 
 iiemical processes, it is colourless, and is called by the che- 
 ust ?pyrolignous acid; it is intensely acid, highly stimulates, 
 
 i 
 
 * 
 
 This is a regulation in our excise laws for those who make 
 negar for sale; the excise does not interfere with the vinegar, or 
 e mode of making it, in private families. 
 
334 
 
 VINEGAB. 
 
 and will blister the skin if applied to it,*' and is well calculate* 
 for sea voyag-es and for the preservation of food, where th< 
 absence of all mucilaginous and colouring- matter is desirable 
 
 As, however, the economical might desire to make thei 
 own vinegar, we present to them the following forms: 
 
 COMMON VINEGAR may be made by dissolvin{ 
 either raw or lump sugar, or honey or treacle in water, ii 
 the proportion of about eighteen ounces-f to every gallon o 
 water, and also mixing with it a quarter of a pint of goo* 
 yeast, and afterwards exposing it in stone jars or bottles t* 
 the action of the air; if it be occasionally poured out fron 
 one vessel to another, the process will be accelerated; th< 
 vessels should be exposed to a heat equal to that afforded b; 
 the sun in summer on the leads or other convenient place; 
 of the house. The fermentation with yeast will be bes 
 made (previously to putting the liquor into bottles) for , 
 day or two in a wooden tub, and the water employed may 
 be made warm, but need not be boiling, as some bool* 
 direct. The bottles may be tied over with coarse muslin t* 
 prevent the access of flies, &c. or covered as mentioned ii 
 page 333. When the liquor becomes good vinegar, it shoul* 
 be filtered through a fine cloth or flannel bag, and set bj; 
 for use. See also our concluding Observations on Vine 
 gars, forwards. 
 
 Note, that if the vinegar be made with good lump suga 
 it will be nearly colourless. Note, also, that if you shoul* 
 happen to have some sour cyder, ale, wine, or strong beer 
 that is not become sufficiently acid for vinegar, exposure fo 
 some time to the air will, most probably, make it so; or 
 
 s 
 
 hould the cyder, or ale, or v ; ine, be weak, an addition 
 
 o 
 
 
 some raw sugar to it, warming the mixture a little, an* j 
 adding some yeast to it, will effect the desired object, takin< 
 
 care to expose it afterwards to the air. 
 
 
 * See the Penny Cyclopaedia, article Acetic Acid. 
 t Mrs. Glasse directs only one pound of coarse Lisbon sugar t* 
 every gallon of water, which she orders to be boiled, with th* 
 sugar dissolved in it, and the scum which arises to be taken off 
 when it is as cold as beer to work, a good toast rubbed over witl j 
 yeast is put into the liquor, which is set to ferment in a tub fo I 
 twenty-four hours, after which it is to be put into bottles, a; 
 directed above. Our friend Mrs. Johnson makes an excellen 
 vinegar by following these directions. 
 
VINEGARS — VINAIGRE AEOMATIQUE. 335 
 
 81 Or, make a wort, as for ale, described under our article 
 Brewing; ferment it with yeast, and expose it to the air 
 It in the same manner as for other vinegar. Note, that the 
 j; vinegar obtained from malt liquors is sometimes called 
 ilegar; but the term is becoming obsolete, 
 m Vinegar may be flavoured with various ingredients, either 
 t ry putting them to the liquor while it is fermenting, or 
 , aiding them to the vinegar when its fermentation is almost 
 » )r uite completed. Tarragon Vinegar is made by using 
 it the leaves when it is blooming-, in the proportion of a pound 
 u o every gallon of vinegar, and setting them to infuse for a 
 tl fortnight. Then pass it through a flannel bag; to every 
 | gallon of vinegar put one drachm of isinglass dissolved in 
 [f( pyder; let it stand a month to become fine, and then rack 
 , t off into pint bottles for use. 
 
 GOOSEBERRY VINEGAR. Bruise well half a peck 
 )f gooseberries, and mix them with one gallon of water; 
 et the mixture ferment for a week or more in a wooden 
 „ ,ub, stirring it once, at least, every day ; then strain oft’ the 
 liquor through a hair sieve, and add to it two pounds of 
 ;aw sugar, a quarter of a pint of yeast, and set it by in the 
 jame tub, well cleaned, for a few days; then put it into a 
 .ar, the mouth of which must be tied over with coarse 
 nuslin, and set it by on some leads or other warm place ; 
 J t will take some months to be fit for bottling. 
 
 Note, that we do not know in what respect this is better 
 
 nay, we doubt whether it be 
 
 in' 
 
 han good common 
 
 io good, as it contains a considerable quantity of mucilagi- 
 ious matter. 
 
 I AN ESSENCE OF VINEGAR was formerly directed 
 p be obtained by exposing- common vinegar to the open air 
 n shallow vessels during intense frost; the watery parts 
 feezing while the vinegar remains liquid; but, since the 
 ntroduction of pyrolignous acid, this is become unneces- 
 ary, as that article will well supply its place. See above, 
 
 - he General Observations on Vinegar. 
 
 VINAIGRE AROMATIQIJE. Digest for a month, in 
 t gallon of good vinegar, and in the ordinary heat of the 
 tmosphere, two drachms of whole pepper, cloves and nut- 
 neg of each half a drachm, salt a handful, of the fresh 
 eaves of tarragon four ounces, tenshalots, a clove of garlic, 
 ne drachm of thyme, four drachms of elder-flowers, and 
 
336 
 
 ACETIC ACID — CHILI VINEGAR. 
 
 one ounce of the leaves of sweet-smelling- tansy, stirring the 
 mixture every day, and taking also care that it be carefully 
 closed from the air. Then filter it, and add to it a glass of 
 brandy; keep it in bottles well stopped. 
 
 Note, that this is the Aromatic Vinegar of the French; 
 see Manuel de Cuisinier, page 75. A much more elegant 
 
 AROMATIC VINEGAR may be made by digesting 
 spices and other aromatics in pyrolignous acid. But we do 
 not much admire any of such cookery compounds; the pure 
 and simple acid will generally be found the best and most 
 wholesome. See the lines as conclusion on Sauces, 
 p. 185. 
 
 PURE ACETIC ACID, for fumigating unwholesome 
 and infected apartments, may be thus obtained: take any 
 quantity of good common vinegar and mix with it powdered 
 chalk, till all effervescence ceases, and till the liquor is no 
 longer acid ; let the chalk, now become an acetate of lime, 
 subside to the bottom of the vessel; then pour off the liquor, 
 and make the chalk thoroughly dry by exposure to fire, a 
 stove, or the sun. When you desire to employ it, take a ! 
 stone-ware saucer, put some of the chalk in it, and pour i 
 upon it sulphuric acid, that is, oil of vitriol, and the pure 
 acetic acid will arise from the mixture in powerful acid I 
 fumes; the saucer may be carried about the apartment to 
 diffuse them; the mixture should be stirred occasionally i 
 with a tobacco pipe. t 
 
 CHILI VINEGAR is merely vinegar impregnated with a 
 chilies, or other peppers of the capsicum tribe. Perhaps 
 one ounce of genuine Cayenne pepper, digested for a fort- a 
 night or more in a quart of good vinegar, shaking the mix‘ » 
 ture once every day, will make as good as can be devised; 
 but the cook may employ, instead, fresh English chilies, 
 if she pleases. See Cayenne Pepper, page 189, con¬ 
 cerning which we may further observe, that much has been 
 said against the use of West Indian Cayenne pepper, and 
 Accum has been referred to as an authority, who by the | 
 way is little or no authority at all; his book on the adulte¬ 
 rations of food contains highly coloured statements, some of 
 which appear to have been made for the purpose of exciting 
 alarm in the public mind. It has been stated, too, that 
 Cayenne pepper brought from the West Indies is of a 
 “ clear red colour;” whereas it is, when genuine, as we 
 
VINEGARS. 
 
 337 
 
 have stated in page 189, of “ an orange yellow,” more or 
 less deep. The red colour of the cayenne, often met with 
 in the shops, is given to it by some of the red dyeing 
 woods, as well as the moisture by the application of salt. 
 When cayenne is pure it is powdery, and not much dis¬ 
 posed to absorb moisture from the atmosphere. 
 
 Vinegar may be, and also frequently is, impregnated with 
 
 Garlic, withSHALOTs, with Horse-radish, with Green- 
 Mint, with Burnet, with Cucumbers (for which Burnet 
 is by many considered a good succedaneum), with White 
 Mustard seed, with Pepper Cress seed, with Celery 
 seed, with Currie Powder, &c. ; but the various modes 
 \ of doin g w hich need not be described, as the cook will, from 
 the preceding directions concerning Tarragon Vinegar. 
 
 ! eas dy know how to proceed, taking care, nevertheless 
 i that the garlic and shalots are sliced, that the horse-radish 
 I is scraped or grated, the cucumbers pared and sliced thin, 
 and the various seeds bruised. The digestion of the diffe¬ 
 rent articles should be made without heat, and they should 
 | be shaken or stirred while in the vinegar, once every day 
 for a fortnight or more. 
 
 We say without heat, because it i 3 to be feared that 
 heat, if employed much higher than that of the atmosphere 
 1 will dissolve in the vinegar much of the mucilage of the 
 : vegetables, and thus render the vinegar more liable to 
 become spoiled. As soon, too, as the vinegar has taken up 
 j all flavour of the article with which it is desired to be im- 
 | pregnated, it should be poured off or filtered through a flan- 
 I nel bag from the ingredients, and be kept in bottles well 
 stopped in a cool place. 
 
 CAMP VINEGAR consists of Cayenne Pepper, Soy, 
 or Walnut Catchup, Anchovies, and Garlic j these mav 
 be digested for fourteen or more days in good vinegar and 
 then strained: the quantities of each may be according; to 
 the cook’s discretion. 
 
 CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS ON VINE¬ 
 GARS. Concerning all the different impregnations of 
 
 1 vinegar with various vegetables, it is necessary that we 
 should here say, we do not think any one of them, except 
 that with cayenne pepper and horse radish, and, perhaps, 
 
 Q 
 
 
338 
 
 VINEGAR—VERJUICE. 
 
 garlic and shalot, is such as we ought to recommend. The 
 curious in culinary taste will possibly suspect ours ; but, as 
 purveyors for the public health, our duty prompts us to 
 make this observation. 
 
 Concerning the qualities of vinegar we may also observe 
 that that vinegar is the best w T hich is least loaded with 
 vegetable substances, such as mucilage and extractive 
 matter, see page 200; that, therefore, sugar must be 
 better for the making of vinegar than either the wort ob¬ 
 tained from malt, or malt liquor converted into vinegar by 
 exposure to the air; treacle for the same reason is not so 
 good as sugar; and the best sugar for the purpose is that 
 which is deprived of its colouring and other vegetable 
 matters, namely refined or lump sugar. The absurdity of 
 colouring , with burnt sugar or with any other burnt vege¬ 
 table, vinegar, which is pale or even colourless, must be, 
 hence, apparent. 
 
 In the preparation of pickles it is, therefore, of impor¬ 
 tance to know that the vinegar should be as free as possible 
 from vegetable substances ; because, whenever it is more 
 or less loaded with them, it will spoil much sooner than it 
 otherwise would do. To avoid this inconvenience cooks 
 sometimes employ 
 
 DISTILLED VINEGAR; but this, although vinegar 
 deprived of its gross vegetable matters, is always weaker than 
 our common vinegars; the strongest part of such vinegars 
 not being elevated by ordinary distillation. The pyrolignous 
 acid offers, however, where strong and pure vinegar is re¬ 
 quired, a ready resource; or the vinegar obtained from 
 good white sugar may be employed, provided it be strong. 
 
 Note. —That the term white wine vinegar used in some 
 books, and by the illiterate, is highly improper, no vinegar 
 from white wine being made in this country; still more 
 improper is it to call distilled vinegar white wine vinegar; 
 it being obtained by the distillation of common vinegar. 
 
 VERJUICE, OR CRAB VERJUICE, is the juice of 
 intensely sour crabs, or other very sour apples expressed 
 from them before they become thoroughly ripe. Some per¬ 
 sons may prefer verjuice to vinegar in pickling, it consisting 
 chiefly, if not wholly, of the malic acid, that is acid of 
 
LEMON PICKLE. 
 
 339 
 
 apples ; but we see no reason whatever for the preference - 
 an we doubt, besides, whether pure verjuice can ever be 
 obtained in the shops. 
 
 Verjus in French cookery is young and unripe sour 
 grapes ; we rarely if ever use them in thiscountrv: they 
 are made into compotes, marmalades, &c. as well "as pre¬ 
 served in France. H 
 
 LEMON PICKLE. The chief object must be to give 
 your pickle the peculiar flavour which lemon peel imparts 
 to many preparations; for this purpose the outside peel 
 should be pared or grated off and beaten into a pulp with a 
 small quantity of sugar ; or it may be digested in proof 
 spmt for a fortnight (see page 189 note) and then strained 
 Off and kept in a bottle well stopped. Add to every ounce 
 Of tins tincture of lemon peel, or to every ounce of 
 the lemon peel pounded with sugar, one pint of the 
 Essence d Assortiment described in page 163. Or if vou 
 esire a less troublesome and more simple pickle, you may 
 digest for a fortnight a few shalots sliced, and one drachm 
 of cayenne pepper in a quart of good vinegar, shakino- the 
 mixture every day ; when it is strained off, add two ounces 
 ° the tincture of lemon peel to it, and you may, if you please, 
 add a quarter of a pint of lemon juice strained through a 
 flannel cloth. See also forwards, under Medicinal 
 cookery—Lemonade. 
 
 Note.~\ ou may add some spice to this pickle if you 
 choose ; but it is not necessary. J 
 
 LEMONS are pickled several ways, not one of which do 
 we recommend : for all the good qualities of a lemon reside 
 in the outside rind and in the juice, both of which can be 
 obtained without the trouble of pickling the whole fruit • 
 but if so useless an article should be ordered as a pickled 
 lemon it may be cut into quarters, leaving the outside rind 
 on taking the seeds out, then sprinkling the quarters over 
 with bay salt and turning them every day for three or four 
 days, after which they may be put into a jar, and covered 
 over with good vinegar, to which may be added what 
 condiments you choose ; such as ginger, garlic, cayenne 
 wiU P Te &c> In a month they will be as good as they ever 
 
 Note. Some pickle them whole, but slit the rind in 
 
340 WALNUT CATCHUP—PICKLED WALNUTS. 
 
 sundry places and load the slits with salt for some days 
 before adding the vinegar and condiments to them. These 
 are some of the follies of cookery. 
 
 WALNUT CATCHUP. Pound in a marble mortar into 
 a pulp unripe walnuts so soft that a pin may be easily run 
 through them ; (you may use them when they are older, but 
 being more woody they will contain less juice ;) press the pulp 
 in a hair or strong canvass bag in a screw press ; add to each 
 quart of the juice obtained four ounces of minced anchovies 
 and the same quantity of salt; boil these together till the 
 juice is reduced to about one half; towards the end of 
 the boiling add for each quart of juice one ounce of allspice 
 and half an ounce of black or long pepper ; to which some 
 will add mace, cloves, ginger, and scraped horse-radish ; 
 the spices are certainly not necessary, the horse-radish 
 will impart a pleasant flavour: such additional condiments 
 must be in quantity suited to the cook’s palate or fancy. 
 The boiling being completed, set the whole by in a well 
 stopped jar to digest for a month or more, stirring or shak¬ 
 ing the liquor occasionally. The digestion being completed, 
 let the liquor be strained off and put into well stopped 
 bottles. 
 
 Note. —The absurdity of boiling the spices and horse¬ 
 radish during the whole operation needs not be here in¬ 
 sisted on, as we have so often mentioned it in the previous 
 parts of our work ; and note also that some will add vinegar 
 to walnut catchup; but we see no necessity for it, and some 
 will put shalots and garlic in it. 
 
 WALNUTS are pickled in many ways and of different 
 colours; some even give directions for black and white 
 olive, and green pickled walnuts. We shall only here set 
 down the usual method in which they are pickled, and 
 by which process they become of a black colour more or 
 less intense. 
 
 The walnuts to be pickled must be in the unripe state 
 described in the last article, namely, so that a pin may be 
 easily run through them. Digest your walnuts in a strong 
 brine made with salt and water, for ten days or more, when 
 they must be taken out, put into a hair sieve, and remain 
 exposed to the air for a day or two, so that they will become 
 black. Prepare now a pickle thus : to good vinegar sufficien t 
 

 jl 
 
 
 
 
 PICKLED ONIONS — PICALILLI. 341 
 
 to cover them when put into a stone jar, add for every fifty 
 walnuts two ounces of black pepper, half an ounce each 
 of ginger and cloves, or allspice, two ounces of white 
 mustard-seed, and a clove of garlic; let all the condiments 
 except the garlic be bruised and boiled for a few moments 
 only in the vinegar in a vessel closely stopped. When the 
 liquor is cold pour it over the walnuts with all the condi¬ 
 ments, and let them remain in the pickle and be taken out 
 as they are wanted. They will take some months to arrive 
 at what is esteemed their perfect state as a pickle. 
 
 Or, you may put the walnuts at once into good strong 
 vinegar with any condiments you choose. This is the 
 simplest and is, perhaps, the best way: some perforate 
 the walnuts with an iron (or rather a silver pin) in several 
 places; they thus become much sooner pickled. 
 
 Note .—That the pickle of walnuts after the walnuts have 
 been used is an excellent catchup ; and the catchup is, we 
 believe, the most wholesome part of such compounded 
 condiments. And note also that if you do not desire your 
 walnuts should be black , you w T ill not, of course, expose them 
 to the air as directed above ; and again observe that upon 
 the goodness of the vinegar will depend chiefly the goodness 
 of your pickle: attend, therefore, to what is said above con¬ 
 cerning vinegars generally. 
 
 ONIONS. Small, round, white onions, all of a similar 
 size, and prepared soon after they are collected from the 
 garden in the month of September, are the best for pickling. 
 They should be freed from tbe outside skins and their tops 
 and tails, and scalded in brine till they become clear; lay 
 them in a cloth till they are dry, and then put them into 
 jars, over which pour a pickle made with good vinegar, in 
 which has been boiled for a short time some horse-radish, 
 allspice, black pepper, and salt, the proportions of which may 
 be half an ounce of each to a pint of the vinegar. Some 
 will keep them on the hob of the fire-place after the vinegar, 
 &c. are added to them, or on the tripod near the fire for two 
 or three days ; but this is not necessary. They should be 
 kept well closed from the air. 
 
 PICALILLI, OR INDIAN PICKLE, is made in various 
 ways; in every way it is a silly and incongruous mess. 
 Kitchiner says that its flavouring ingredients are currie- 
 
342 
 
 MUSHROOM AND OTHER CATCHUPS. 
 
 powder and plenty of mustard and garlic, but all picalillies 
 are not thus exactly flavoured. They consist, however, 
 usually of a pickle made with some or all of the following- 
 condiments and strong vinegar: ginger, mustard, shalots, 
 onions, salt, cayenne pepper, horse-radish, cloves, turmeric, 
 &c. These are digested in the vinegar in a warm place for 
 three or four days; the liquor is then poured over the fol¬ 
 lowing articles properly prepared for pickling; namely, 
 gherkins, cucumbers sliced, cauliflowers picked into small 
 pieces, the white of a cabbage cut into small pieces, radish- 
 pods, celery, French beans, nasturtiums, capsicums, and, 
 in short, whatever, as a hotch-potch pickle, the fancy of a 
 cook may suggest, to which some will add olive oil ! Some 
 say that such a pickle ought to digest a year. The cook 
 will digest it just as long as she pleases. But we presume 
 three months quite enough. 
 
 Note .—That some pour the vinegar boiling hot on the 
 articles to be pickled ; others add it cold. 
 
 MUSHROOM CATCHUP. Take any quantity of 
 mushrooms you please, (those which are grown large, much 
 expanded, and the gills dark coloured, are generally used 
 for the purpose, because they yield the most liquor, care 
 being taken that they are the proper edible mushrooms, and 
 quite sweet, see page 230,) the whole of the stems will be 
 also found equally useful with the heads; break them 
 into small pieces w-ith the hand, and mix with them a pretty 
 considerable portion of salt in an earthen pan ; let them 
 remain in this state for three or four days, bruising them 
 and stirring them about every day; then press out the 
 liquor, strain it, and boil it till it is reduced one third or 
 more; towards the end of the boiling add for every quart 
 half an ounce of whole pepper, a quarter of an ounce of all¬ 
 spice, to which some will add mace or other spice, sliced 
 •ginger, and a good quantity of sliced horse-radish ; this last 
 is perhaps the best of all the condiments to flavour catchups. 
 Some add besides, to every quart of catchup, four ounces of 
 minced anchovies ; these may be put in and boiled at once 
 with the liquor. When cold, strain the catchup off, and 
 keep it in bottles well stopped. 
 
 CATCHUPS FROM OTHER VEGETABLES, such 
 as tomatos or love-apples, cucumbers, &c. &c. may be 
 
PICKLED MUSHROOMS—BARBERRIES. 343 
 
 made in a similar manner to that directed for mushroom 
 catchup. 
 
 MUSHROOMS are pickled thus:—take nice small 
 button mushrooms, and rub them with a flannel and a little 
 salt; put them into a saucepan, strewing' some salt over 
 them, and let them stew over a gentle fire till their juice is 
 nearly become dried, taking care at the same time that they 
 are moved about occasionally, that they are not broken, and 
 that they do not burn ; the best way of doing this will, how¬ 
 ever, be to put them into a stone jar and a water-bath. 
 Take now some good vinegar sufficient to cover them ; make 
 it boiling hot, and add to it some pepper, mace, ginger, and, 
 if you choose, a clove of garlic or some shalots, and a little 
 lemon juice. When the condiments have been in the hot 
 vinegar for a few minutes, pour the whole to the mush¬ 
 rooms, and cover them close till cold, when they must be 
 put into proper jars or bottles, taking care that there is 
 liquor in each sufficient to cover the mushrooms. 
 
 Note , that some peel the mushrooms, but if they be pro¬ 
 perly wiped, as directed above, there is no necessity for this 
 process. 
 
 MUSHROOM POWDER. Take any kind of mush¬ 
 rooms you please, whether large or small, only be careful 
 that they are the proper ones for eating; dry them in a 
 dish or platter before the fire, or in an oven moderately 
 heated, till they can be reduced to a dry powder; sift the 
 powder through a sieve, and keep it in a bottle well closed 
 from the air. You may, if you choose, mix a little cayenne 
 pepper with it. 
 
 Note, that this is the simplest and best way to obtain 
 mushroom powder. Some persons, however, more curious 
 than wise, add various condiments and salt to them, and 
 powder the whole together; if the cook choose she may 
 give herself this trouble. 
 
 BARBERRIES may be preserved by being put, when 
 they are ripe, into jars with a strong brine made of salt and 
 water, and some persons prefer this simple method to any 
 other. Others, however, will proceed more complicately by 
 adding to a pint of the juice of ripe barberries, obtained by 
 bruising and straining them, three pints of vinegar, four 
 ounces of lump sugar, one ounce of salt, and a quarter of an 
 
344 PICKLED BEET ROOTS — CABBAGE. 
 
 ounce of sliced ginger; these are all boiled together for a 
 few minutes, and the scum which arises is taken off. 
 Bunches of ripe barberries are then put into jars, and the 
 pickle being strained is poured over them boiling hot; cover 
 the jars close, and when the pickle is cold let them be well 
 stopped from the air. Some direct a little bruised cochineal 
 to be added to the liquor to improve the colour of the 
 berries, but this is a useless piece of art. 
 
 Barberries may be also preserved in bunches by being 
 scalded in a strong syrup. See Preserves. 
 
 RIPE RED CURRANTS may be preserved in 
 bunches in a similar manner to that directed for barber¬ 
 ries, namely, by scalding them in syrup, or putting them 
 into brine. 
 
 RED BEET ROOTS must be boiled till they are nearly 
 tender, then peel them, cut them into slices or other shapes 
 which you may choose, and boil them for a few minutes in 
 a pickle made with sufficient vinegar to cover them, to which 
 add what condiments you like, such as spices, pepper, onions, 
 cayenne, and horse-radish, to which some add bay-leaves 
 and sliced ginger. Strain off the pickle, and when it is 
 cold put the beet into jars, and pour the pickle over it. 
 
 Note, that some recommend a little sweet oil on the top 
 to keep it from the air; but if the vinegar be good, covers 
 wholly the pickled article, and the jars be well closed from 
 the air, this is an unnecessary precaution. 
 
 Or, you may put the sliced beet into a strong pickle of 
 salt, water, and vinegar, omitting all the condiments. 
 
 RED CABBAGE is a very common pickle. We, be it 
 here remembered, do not recommend it; those who like it 
 may prepare it thus:—a good fresh red cabbage, and not 
 too old and woody, being freed from its outside leaves, must 
 be cut into slips, and these being washed and cleaned, put 
 into a pan with plenty of salt and water, where they are to 
 remain for about two days. Take now sufficient good 
 vinegar to cover the cabbage, and simmer it in a covered 
 vessel for half an hour w T ith such condiments as you may 
 choose, namely, pepper, some one or more of the spices, for 
 which allspice alone may serve, and wffiite mustard seed ; 
 the quantity must be of these according to your discretion ; 
 perhaps, if you put none of them your cabbage will not be 
 
PICKLED CAULIFLOWERS, CUCUMBERS, &C. 345 
 
 much the worse. When the pickle is cold, strain it off, 
 put the cabbage into jars, and pour the pickle over it. 
 
 Note. —That some will add the pickle to the cabbage 
 boiling hot, which will render it sooner fit for use. 
 
 Or, the French method of pickling cabbage may be pur¬ 
 sued, which is assuredly preferable to our own; it is thus: 
 having cut into fine threads either red or any other 
 cabbage, boil them in water for some minutes; next put 
 them in alternate layers with some salt, pepper, and cloves 
 in a stone jar, which fill with strong vinegar, to which you 
 may add a tenth part of brandy; tie it over with parch¬ 
 ment or a bladder; they will keep thus during the whole 
 year.* 
 
 CAULIFLOWERS may be also pickled in precisely the 
 h same way as last directed for cabbage, taking care to 
 1' separate them into convenient portions before putting them 
 into the pickle.f 
 
 CUCUMBERS are pickles of which we cannot approve ; 
 but luxury demands the dish, and with her orders we 
 ' comply. They are generally pickled as gherkins , that is, 
 very small cucumbers. They should be chosen very green; 
 both ends being cut off, they must be soaked in cold fresh 
 water for some hours, then wash them, take them out, drain 
 them and put them into stone jars, upon which pour suffi¬ 
 cient boiling vinegar to cover them; when the pickle is 
 cold the jar must be stopped, three days after which pour 
 out the vinegar, boil it again, and pour it again upon the 
 cucumbers; repeat the same process after three days once 
 more. In the last operation add what condiments you 
 choose to the vinegar: the French put tarragon, pim¬ 
 pernel, long pepper, garlic, cloves, small onions, and 
 some salt. I 
 
 In the same manner may be pickled kidney or French 
 beans, taking care that the pods are tender and fresh ; and 
 H also Radish Pods, Nasturtiums, (seepage 195,) To- 
 matos, or Love Apples, Artichoke Bottoms, Sam- 
 pire, &c. &c. And, indeed, from the preceding direc¬ 
 tions given for pickling various articles, the cook, we cannot 
 
 * Manual de Cuisinier, page 315. t Id. 
 
 X Id . page 321. 
 
TICKLING FISH. 
 
 346 
 
 suppose, will be at a loss to pickle any vegetable that may be 
 presented to her notice, as well as, indeed, any fruit 
 whatever; and, therefore, on this branch of cookery we 
 shall not here enlarge. It will be necessary, however, 
 that we should say something about the Pickling of 
 Fish. 
 
 SALMON. Your salmon being quite fresh and in proper 
 season must be thoroughly cleansed, scaled, and drained, 
 and then cut into pieces suitable for the table; then place 
 them in a pan or dish and sprinkle each piece separately 
 over with pepper and salt, to which some will add bay- 
 leaves, a few cloves, and a little butter. Cover the whole 
 with vinegar, tie it over with paper and let it be baked in a 
 slow oven. 
 
 Note .—That some boil the salmon, cut into pieces, &c. 
 as above directed, in water with plenty of salt till it is 
 done ; the liquor in which the salmon has been boiled 
 is then mixed with an equal quantity of vinegar, and what 
 condiments might be chosen, and boiled for a few minutes, 
 and when boiled poured over the salmon. This is, perhaps, 
 the preferable way ; in the first, however, the salmon will be 
 less salt. See the next article— -note. 
 
 MACKAREL, being well cleansed, must be cut into 
 four or more pieces if the fish be large; let them be fried 
 brown in olive oil, turning the pieces in the pan during 
 the frying once : towards the end of the operation sprinkle 
 over them plenty of ground black pepper and salt, a little 
 spice, and any other condiments you may choose. When 
 cold put them into a stone jar, into which pour sufficient 
 good vinegar to cover them. 
 
 Note .-—-That some put on the powdered condiments 
 before the fish are put into the pan; and some wall pour 
 olive oil over them when put into the jars to preserve 
 them more effectually. This article is sometimes called 
 Caveach. 
 
 And note also, that almost any fish may be pickled 
 in precisely the same way as that directed for mackarel; 
 and, beyond a doubt, it is one of the best methods of pick¬ 
 ling them, as by such means all the goodness of the fish 
 will be most likely to be retained; even Salmon cut into 
 pieces so as to be conveniently thus fried in the first in- 
 
PICKLING FISH — SALTING. 347 
 
 stance will be rendered a very good dish; it will be found, 
 however, that the white fish are best thus pickled. 
 
 OYSTERS must be taken out of the shells and drained 
 from their liquor, which must be saved and strained; add 
 to it one-fourth of its quantity, whatever that may be, 
 of good vineg’ar, a little salt, some pepper, and spice, such 
 as you may choose; some prefer mace. Simmer the oysters 
 for five or more minutes in the liquor in a covered vessel; 
 take them out of the liquor and put them into jars; when 
 the liquor is cold, strain it and pour it over the oysters ; 
 if not sufficient to cover them add a little vinegar to it. 
 
 Note, that some direct the oysters to be freed from the 
 beards; and some boil and skim the pickle before adding it 
 j the last time to the oysters; but this will be in general an 
 unnecessary process; and some direct the oysters to be 
 boiled in the liquor for half an hour, a sure way to spoil 
 them. See what is said concerning oysters at pages 100 
 and 274. 
 
 One of our Council of Cooks desires us to give the fol¬ 
 lowing directions for pickling oysters; she obtained them 
 \ from Swansea, and assures us that, by following them 
 exactly, excellent pickled oysters may be obtained: we 
 j give the form verbatim: 
 
 Let your oysters be opened into a pan with all their 
 liquor; then wash them in the same, strain the liquor and 
 put the oysters into it again ; set them over the fire, and 
 ■ when the scum arises let it be taken off; put in now some 
 whole pepper, a little sliced ginger, a few cloves, a little 
 cayenne pepper, and a little vinegar. 
 
 Note, not to let them simmer more than five minutes, 
 or they will become hard ; they must be strained out of the 
 liquor immediately, which when cold must be put to them 
 in the jars. 
 
 COCKLES, MUSCLES, and other similar shell fish 
 may be pickled in the same way as oysters. 
 
 SALTING, &c. General Observations. This is 
 beyond question the most important section of the present 
 Chapter; the cook will, consequently, pay a more than 
 ordinary attention to it. And here it is necessary to ob¬ 
 serve that very different directions, indeed, have been given for 
 | the salting, and, consequently, preservation of animal food. 
 
348 
 
 SALTING OF MEAT. 
 
 Some say that it should be salted as soon as possible after 
 the animal is killed, and even ivhilst the meat is hot; 
 others, on the contrary, direct that it should be kept for 
 some time till the meat becomes tender; now, we must 
 enter our protest against both these extremes. We be¬ 
 lieve, and experience warrants us in our belief, that the 
 best time for salting meat generally will be found as soon 
 as it has become completely cold after the animal is killed; 
 if it be kept till it is tender, the probability will be that, in 
 the glandular and more juicy parts of the meat, particu¬ 
 larly in the summer season, the process of putrefaction 
 might have begun, and, if so, it will be difficult, if not 
 impossible, by any process of salting, to prevent the meat 
 from being, in some parts at least, not only unpalatable but 
 also more or less unwholesome. For this reason in par¬ 
 ticular it is that we recommend the frugal housewife to 
 salt always her own meat, or at least to superintend its 
 salting, by which means she will be assured of its perfect 
 wholesomeness; she will take care at the same time to 
 ascertain that the meat which she is about to salt is per¬ 
 fectly sweet. For want of such precaution many a joint 
 has been thrown away. In warm weather her attention in 
 this respect is peculiarly necessary. We recommend, how¬ 
 ever, that in very hot weather no meat should be salted 
 if it can possibly be avoided; still, in this respect, some¬ 
 thing will depend upon the nature of the pantry or other 
 place in which the meat is kept, and the salting- is per¬ 
 formed : we have known such places to be very cool and 
 airy, even in the summer season; and, where this con¬ 
 dition is found, the salting might answer very well. But 
 no one ought to attempt to cure hams and other delicacies 
 in such weather. The extremes both of heat and cold 
 should in salting be equally avoided. 
 
 If there be any part of the joint which appears bruised 
 and discoloured, that ought, before the joint is salted, to be 
 cut entirely out; and it will be also desirable to cut out all 
 the kernels or glands, as these spoil sooner than the other 
 parts of the meat. The salt should not only be rubbed 
 well all over the meat but into every part, not only whence 
 the kernels have been taken, but also where the mem¬ 
 branes separate one part of the meat from another, so that 
 
1 
 
 SALTING OF MEAT—BRINE. 349 
 
 as much as possible the salt may penetrate throughout the 
 meat. The butchers’ skewers must be also taken out and 
 the holes be filled with salt. In regard to the salt em¬ 
 ployed it may be the common salt met with in the shops ; 
 yet, if it be not convenient to cover the joint wholly with 
 strong brine, some bay salt may be used, which will dis¬ 
 solve more slowly than common salt; see what is said 
 under Common Salt, in page 186, and also in page 133, 
 note; see also what is said in the same page in regard to 
 Saltpetre, which must be used when you desire to 
 render your meat more or less red. Sugar may be and is 
 sometimes employed in the preservation of meat; but it is 
 chiefly used to impart an agreeable flavour to hams and 
 tongues.—See those articles forward. 
 
 The Brine or Pickle which drains from meat during 
 
 { its salting, or which was made for it, used to be, while 
 salt was dear, very commonly employed again in preserving 
 meat by being boiled for a time more or less long; but as 
 salt is now so cheap, the trouble and expense will not, 
 perhaps, be often gone into. The process is, however, a 
 simple and a tolerably efficient one for its purification; 
 the addition of a few whites of eggs well beaten up with 
 the brine, after its being boiled some time, will more effec¬ 
 tually purify it; the scum which arises in this second boil¬ 
 ing must also be taken off. In this state it may be ap¬ 
 plied to almost any purpose, for which brine or a saline 
 pickle may be wanted. 
 
 1( When a joint is salted it should be turned every day, 
 and if not covered with the brine it should be basted with 
 it; three or four days or at most a week, will be quite 
 sufficient for the preservation of any moderate joint; if it 
 remain longer it may become too salt, hard, and, conse¬ 
 quently, less nutricious: many persons, nevertheless, keep 
 meat a much longer time in salt than this. 
 
 The vessels in which meat is salted should be either 
 I stone-ware dishes or pans, or ivood; when wooden vessels 
 are employed, care must especially be taken that they are 
 occasionally well cleansed by immersion in boiling water; 
 iljor filled with boiling water, and well scrubbed all over with 
 it, both inside and out, with a hard brush. Salted meat 
 IJshould always be kept in a cool but airy place. 
 
350 
 
 BACON —IIAM. 
 
 BACON. Sides of pork are cut up to be made into 
 bacon in several ways ; some cut out the hams and fore¬ 
 legs, and all the bones belonging' to what are usually called 
 the spare ribs; thus salted, the bacon has no bones what¬ 
 ever in it; others salt both the hams and fore-legs together 
 with the side, and hence we find, in London in particular, 
 bacon hams a very common dish; and we may add, when 
 they are well cured, a very good one. The bacon for the 
 London market is also usually cured with the bones of the 
 spare rib in it; but in many parts of the country, particu¬ 
 larly where the pig is a large one, the bones are entirely 
 cut out. Different opinions are entertained concerning 
 these methods; we shall not attempt to reconcile them ; 
 but good bacon must be made in the same way: we only 
 premise that that which is burnt (see the note concerning 
 burnt bacon, page 106,) is, by many, most esteemed. 
 
 The side, the part on which the skin is being under¬ 
 most, must be laid in a wooden trough or salter, and 
 sprinkled all over with finely grained and dry salt; it is 
 then left for twenty-four hours, during which the blood and 
 some of the juices of the bacon will run from it: these 
 drainings must be thrown away. The side must then be 
 taken out of the salter and wiped very dry ; next let plenty 
 of bay salt, previously made hot in a frying;-pan in order 
 to dry it, be rubbed well over the side; this rubbing with 
 the bay salt must be repeated for four days successively ; 
 the side being turned only every other day. If the side be 
 large it should be kept in salt for three weeks, and turned 
 ten or more times during that period. It is then to be 
 taken out and dried by the moderate heat of an open chim¬ 
 ney, over an oven, or in any other suitable manner. 
 
 Note , that if you desire your bacon to be red you must 
 add saltpetre to it in the proportion of four ounces 
 (powdered of course) to every pound of salt employed. 
 See Saltpetre, page 185; some, besides saltpetre, 
 use raw sugar. See the General Observations, page 349. 
 
 A HAM. The hind leg of a fat pig, being perfectly 
 fresh and sweet, in order to be made into a ham, must 
 first have the skin slit down upon the bone of the hock end 
 three inches, the skin being turned back, and the bone 
 of the same length cut off, so that when the ham is hung 
 
H A m s. 351 
 
 up to bo dried, the skin may be tied completely over the 
 
 one, care having- been previously taken to salt well every 
 part whence the bone came. This being accomplished, rub 
 
 , ham a11 over Wlth a httl e common salt made previously 
 dry; let it remain in this state one night that the blood 
 may run off, and which must be thrown away; next wipe 
 1 ly; then take half a pound of brown raw sugar, four 
 ounces of bay salt and two ounces of saltpetre; let them 
 
 l - i u ^ 7 P 0T ! dered ’ mixed together, and thoroughly 
 dried before the fire. One-half of this mixture is to be 
 rubbed well into and over the ham, and let the other half 
 be ruobed into it the following day. Set it by in a cool 
 place in a proper vessel, and turn the ham, basting it with 
 the pidde which will run out of it, every day for three 
 weeks Then, after draining the pickle from it, shake 
 some bran over it, and hang it up in a chimney where 
 wood is burnt, at a moderate distance from the fire till it 
 becomes thoroughly dry. The quantities of the salts and 
 sugar here specified, are calculated for a ham of about ten 
 pounds weight. 
 
 Note, that the chimney above alluded to is the large 
 open chimney usually seen in the kitchens of farm-houses 
 in the country; in towns few kitchen chimneys will answer 
 for the purpose of drying hams; they are too hot; bakers 
 and other persons there make it their business to dry hams- 
 but we fear not often by the means of wood smoke. 
 
 One of our Council of Cooks has cured hams by the 
 above method for years, and she thinks that she may chal¬ 
 lenge the whole art of cookery to equal it; at any rate that 
 it cannot be exceeded : in this opinion we coincide. 
 
 Salt Prunella being nothing more than saltpetre melted 
 by the aid of considerable heat, should never be employed 
 in cooking, as it is not better than if so good as saltpetre 
 powdered and dried: therefore we cannot countenance its 
 employment in the preparation of hams, or any thino- else 
 
 Hams are cured in many other different ways : thus, we 
 are presented in the books with methods for the preparation 
 of Westphalia, New England, Yorkshire, and 
 Westmoreland hams; but as we believe none of these 
 are superior to our own form above, we shall not encumber 
 our pages with any of them. It is true, more condiments 
 
352 
 
 HAMS — TONGUES. 
 
 may be employed and particular flavours thus imparted; 
 and if the cook desire such, her own taste or fancy will 
 suggest them: we however, as in duty bound, must be 
 guided by our sheet-anchor, simplicity. 
 
 We would just add here, we think, from the experience 
 we have had, that sugar is a better preservative of the 
 nutritive properties of animal food than salt ; it does not 
 appear to have the same tendency to make the meat hard ; 
 but it is, of course, much more expensive than salt; 
 it may not, besides, suit every kind of meat: concerning 
 this we want, however, a knowledge of more facts. 
 
 A BEEF, MUTTON, and even a VEAL HAM, may be 
 cured in exactly the same way as directed for pork hams ; 
 but we have no reason to recommend any of such pre¬ 
 parations. 
 
 A NEAT’S TONGUE, having all the glandular parts* 
 of the root cut oft", and a deep cut being made in the 
 under-part lengthwise to admit the salt, must be rubbed 
 well all over w T ith salt, and remain thus salted for one or 
 two days, when the blood, &c. which have drained from 
 it, must be thrown away. Wipe the tongue with a dry 
 cloth and salt it with the same salts and sugar, and in i 
 the same proportion as we have directed for ham above. 
 Rub the tongue well with the salts and sugar, previously 
 powdered and well dried ; put the tongue into your pickling 
 pan and turn it every two days, adding, if necessary, 
 some more of the salt; in a fortnight it will be sufficiently 
 salted. 
 
 Note, that there are tw r o methods of keeping tongues, 
 after being thus preserved; one is to treat them in the 
 same way as hams by drying them in a chimney, or other¬ 
 wise ; and the other is by keeping them in .their pickle ; 
 the last will be found by far the best, for it rarely happens 
 that when tongues are thoroughly dried, they can be again 
 restored to the tender state in which they are and will be 
 when boiled; after being immediately taken out of the 
 pickle, soak them before boiling as long as you please; 
 soaking, however, for some hours in water before boiling, 
 even tongues taken immediately out of the pickle, is ab- 
 
 * These are excellent for soup. See our Chapter on Souvs. 
 
HUNG BEEF—SALT PORK, BEEF, MUTTON. 353 
 
 solutely necessary to render them in the best state for 
 being- eaten : dried tongues will, of course, require more 
 soaking. 
 
 And note also that the pickle in which hams have Iain 
 will be very convenient (after boiling, as directed above,) 
 for tongues, with a very slight addition of fresh salt and 
 ' sugar. 
 
 HUNG BEEF. Take any piece of beef you please, 
 
 ' some prefer the navel piece; salt it in precisely the same 
 way as directed for ham above, and keep it in salt for about 
 the same period. Dry it also in the same way. When it 
 is wanted boil it till it is tender. 
 
 Note .—That some direct blood to be washed over the 
 
 a.K] 
 
 beef during its drying to make it of a dark colour ; but this 
 , is surely a useless piece of art. Hung beef will require long- 
 soaking and boiling to be eatable : we do not much admire 
 it, more especially if, before being salted, the beef has been 
 hung- in a cellar, as some of the books direct, till it becomes 
 “ a little sappy .”—Sappy indeed must he be who desires 
 or directs the preparation of such a dish ! 
 
 PORK as well as Beef and Mutton may be salted 
 according to our General Directions for salting above. 
 We say nothing of the addition of other condiments, be- 
 ieving as w r e do that those we have mentioned are the only 
 articles necessary for the effectual preservation of meat; and 
 that imparting particular tastes by condiments will generally 
 letract more or less from the peculiar taste that every kind 
 )f meat has, and which it is desirable as much as possible to 
 
 ; jj 
 
 it 
 
 ipr-1 i 
 
 ^reserve. 
 
 Note .—That although beef and pork when sufficiently 
 salted, may be dried and preserved in a similar way to hams, 
 t is the usual and the best method to keep them in their 
 oickle till they are wanted, for the same reason that w r e 
 lave assigned under tongue; and also because it is unques- 
 ionably the most convenient as it saves both time and 
 6 rouble. 
 
 From what has been said in this section every other kind 
 f meat, Venison, Game, and Birds, may be readily, 
 f desired, preserved. 
 
 TRIPE SOUSED. Boil tripe and keep it in a pickle 
 
354 
 
 SAUSAGE MEAT—SAUSAGES. 
 
 of salt and water changed every day till you want the tripe, 
 which must then be treated in a similar way as directed under 
 Fried Tripe page 74; or it may be boiled in salt and 
 water; serve it up as directed in the same page. 
 
 PIGS FEET AND EARS SOUSED must be boiled 
 till they are tender; the feet being split, put both into a 
 pickle of salt and water. When wanted, fry them in batter 
 as directed for tripe. 
 
 Other articles may be soused in the same way as the 
 preceding; but sousing is not a process to which many 
 persons will resort; it does not seem to have any particular i 
 recommendation. 
 
 SAUSAGE MEAT is made either with Pork, Beef, or 
 Veal, or Veal and Pork mixed; it consists chiefly of the 
 lean of the respective articles, separated from the mem¬ 
 branes and gristles, minced fine and afterwards mixed with 
 salt and such other condiments as the taste or fancy of the 
 cook may direct. Pork sausage meat and sausages are, 
 however, most in demand. In London Epping sausages, 
 which consist chiefly, if not entirely, of pork, are here most 
 esteemed ; but Oxford sausages are also in good repute. 
 It is usual to inclose the sausage meat in skins or guts 
 well cleansed, particularly in the metropolis; but they are 
 sometimes made into cakes or rolls without any covering: 
 a tea cup or other vessel having a circular edge is very con¬ 
 venient for forming the cakes after the sausage meat has \ 
 been previously rolled out with the rolling pin. Sausages j 
 are best fried or broiled; and we may just observe that those j 
 made of Beef are the most nutricious; that salt and, perhaps, 
 a little pepper are the only condiments which they require: 
 but fashion dictates otherwise. Sheeps’ or other small guts 
 are those usually employed. See the next article. 
 
 PORK SAUSAGES. Some make them chiefly with 
 the lean of pork, and a little of the fat mixed with it, anc 
 condiments of course ; others direct two thirds lean and one 
 third fat; and others again equal parts of lean and fat 
 while some take two parts of the lean and one part of the 
 fat of pork and one of beef suet. Whatever proportions art 
 chosen they must be all finely minced and mixed with salt 
 spices, &c.: some use a considerable portion of powderee 
 
SAUSAGES — PRESERVATION OF V EG ET A B LES. 355 
 
 >r minced sage; others, shalots, onions, truffles, parsley, 
 md sweet herbs, as well as pepper and nutmeg; some 
 employ saltpetre ; and some will add wine and a minced 
 nchovy. 
 
 ‘ Note .—'That when sausages are fried, not being in skins, 
 ome dip them in egg and roll them in flour ; but this is an 
 mnecessary process. See what is said under Sausages 
 >age 76. And note also that if sausage meat is designed to 
 >e kept for some time, it should be salted higher than when 
 ntended for immediate dressing; it should be also pressed 
 own closely into a jar and be kept from the air in a 
 ool place. 
 
 OXFORD SAUSAGES are said to be composed of 
 oung pork, both fat and lean, one pound, the same quan- 
 ty of veal and of beef suet, half a pound of bread grated, 
 7 ith sage, grated lemon peel, salt, savory, pepper, and sweet 
 erbs. 
 
 BOLOGNA SAUSAGES consist of equal quantities of 
 ork, bacon, veal, beef, and beef suet, and grated bread; 
 ae whole must be minced and seasoned well with sage, 
 weet herbs, pepper and salt. Put the meat thus prepared 
 kto guts and boil them gently for an hour, having previously 
 ricked them with some sharp instrument in order that the 
 as which is generated during the boiling may escape. 
 )ry them on straw and keep them in a cool place. 
 
 For Savaloys, see Cervelas Fumes, page 140. 
 BEEF SAUSAGES. The lean of beef must be minced 
 ith a suitable quantity of beef suet, and grated bread, 
 tasoned with what condiments you choose, not omitting 
 idt. See what is said under Sausage Meat and Pork 
 A us ages above. 
 
 PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES. A few ob- 
 irvations on this subject may be useful, although, perhaps, 
 'me of our readers may not require them. 
 
 POTATOES, when taken out of the ground and not 
 ;signed for immediate use, should be deposited, without 
 ;ing washed, in a cool and dry place where there is no pos- 
 bility of their becoming frozen. In the country, and in the 
 Fge way, they are usually thus preserved. A hole being 
 •st dug a foot or more deep in the ground, generally in the 
 ,rden or place where they grew, the potatoes are put in and 
 
356 
 
 PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES. 
 
 formed into conical Leaps, which are covered with straw, 
 then with a thick coat of earth, and to this is sometimes 
 added a roof of thatch. In ordinary seasons this process 
 will be sufficient to keep them through the winter provided 
 they are at the same time kept dry ; but in intense frost 
 it frequently happens that many potatoes thus preserved 
 are spoiled. To obviate this we have recommended (see the 
 Family Cyclopaedia, article Potatoe) a mud-wall 
 house, in which they may be more effectually preserved. 
 
 OTHER ROOTS, such as Parsnips, Carrots, Beet, 
 &c. are best preserved, after being taken out of the ground, 
 in dry sand and in a dry and cool place, the earth which 
 remains about them not being removed. 
 
 ONIONS may be kept either upon the floor of a dry 
 and cool rooom, or hung up in traces in the same place. 
 
 APPLES, PEARS, &c. may be also effectually kept)'! 
 according- to their kind and time of ripening on the floor of 
 a cool and dry room, where little if any alteration occurs in 
 the temperature.* They should be looked over occasionally, 
 and those which are decayed or beginning to decay, picked 
 out, as they will infect the sound ones. They should not 
 be kept in heaps, and, if possible, not one upon another. If 
 by any accident apples should become frozen , they should 
 be immediately inclosed in a wooden box, so that they may 
 thus gradually become thawed: for if exposed to the heat 
 of the atmosphere when a thaw takes place, they will most 
 probably all become spoiled. 
 
 GRAPES may be preserved by hanging the bunches 
 up in a dry room with a joint of the stalk to them. But 
 grapes imported from the south of Europe are now, at least 
 in London, so readily to be obtained, and generally so cheap, 
 that the trouble of thus preserving the produce of our own 
 climate is, in great measure, superseded. 
 
 SHALOTS being dried may be kept in paper bags in a 
 dry cool place ; so also may Artichoke Bottoms ; dried 
 Lemon Peel as well as Truffles, Morels, &c. should 
 be kept in bags in a dry cool place. 
 
 * The curious in these matters may possibly be more particular 
 and preserve the apples and pears packed in dry sand in suitable 
 jars, each being rolled up in paper. But this is a process to 
 which few economical persons will, we conclude, submit. 
 
PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES. 357 
 
 CABBAGES, being freed from most of the coarsest 
 jleaves, may be kept for some time on a cool stone floor. 
 
 CAULIFLOWERS, which are often to be obtained in 
 great perfection towards the end of October, may be taken 
 carefully up with the spade, keeping a ball of earth attached 
 to the roots and arranged in a peach-house or vinery or 
 other similar situation in borders without touching each 
 other, some of the large outside leaves being taken off, or 
 they may be kept in hot-bed frames. 
 
 CABBAGES and many other veg-etables of the cabbage 
 .ribe, as well as Leeks, Endive, and Lettuces, may be 
 preserved in a similar way to cauliflowers, particularly when 
 the weather is severe; and in this case a cold but not 
 freezing cellar may, perhaps, in winter answer the purpose 
 juite as well as a peach-house or vinery. 
 
 A method of preserving Cabbage is described in 
 nany of our Cookery Books ; but it is not likely that it 
 will be adopted in this country because we can have fresh 
 cabbage at every season without such art. The article pre¬ 
 served is called Sour Crout or Sour Craut. It con¬ 
 sists in cutting the white heart of cabbage into slips, and 
 hen packing them in layers in a cask with salt in the pro¬ 
 portion of about one pound of salt to ten of cabbage; but 
 some employ much less salt than this ; when the cask is 
 learly full the cabbage is pressed down close; some add 
 condiments, such as pepper, juniper-berries, and coriander 
 seeds to it. When the sour crout is dressed, it is previously 
 soaked in water for some hours and then stewed with 
 iacon, cervelas, or sausages, gravy, onions, pepper, &c. 
 
 Note .—This is a German dish ; we have no disposition 
 o recommend it. It may possibly, however, suit the store- 
 oom of a ship bound on a long voyage. 
 
 FRENCH BEANS, gathered when tender, may be pre¬ 
 served a long time by packing them in a stone-pot in layers 
 alternately with layers of salt. They must be well covered 
 rom the air, and be kept in a cool place. When to be 
 Iressed they should be soaked in water twenty-four hours, 
 md then treated in every other respect as fresh beans. 
 
 Note, that the chief care requisite in preserving French 
 leans is that you do not put too much salt: they should be 
 •ell pressed down in the pot; a slate of the size of the 
 
358 
 
 PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES. 
 
 mouth of the pot should be laid over them, on which some 
 will place a heavy stone or other weight. 
 
 GREEN PEAS, being 1 young and shelled, may be boiled 
 for a few minutes in salt and water, then drained and dried 
 thoroughly in a cloth ; bottle them, and cover the top with 
 mutton fat fried; cork them close, and keep them in a cool 
 place. They may be dressed in a similar w T ay to other 
 green peas. 
 
 Note, that some direct them after being scalded to be 
 dried in a slow oven; and when wanted, to be soaked in 
 water as other dry peas. We agree with Mrs. Dods that, 
 after all, they are but “ the ghosts of green pease.” 
 
 RIPE WALNUTS, freed from their husks, may be kept 
 between layers of sand in ajar. When wanted to be eaten, 
 lay them in warm water for an hour or two, and they will 
 peel as well as when they were put into the jar. 
 
 Concerning the preservation of Parsley, see what is 
 said in page 191. 
 
 To conclude this section on the Preservation of Vege¬ 
 tables; the cook ought to be, after all, thoroughly per¬ 
 suaded that “ there is a time and a season for every thing,” 
 for vegetables especially, and that, how agreeable soever it 
 may be, as a matter of curiosity or of rarity, to lay upon 
 the table at Christmas Green Peas or French Beans, 
 these, and indeed every other vegetable produced by the 
 genial breath and fructifying showers of spring and summer, 
 are never, even if produced by the aid of a hot-house, equal 
 to the productions of nature in the open air during that 
 season which is peculiar to their respective vegetation; 
 much less, therefore, can we expect to retain Vegetables in 
 the actual state in which we find them in the spring and 
 summer by any art whatever. In the vegetable, as well as 
 the animal world, 
 
 “ All, all is change.” 
 
 Even Fruits, which ripen slowly, many of them long 
 after they are gathered from the tree, when once they are 
 become ripe, soon go into decay, unless they are kept at or 
 near the freezing point, or are preserved with sugar; and 
 neither sugar nor salt is well calculated to preserve green 
 vegetables in their primitive condition. In this country 
 
PRESERVATION OF VEGETABLES. 
 
 
 359 
 
 we all know that one of the most highly stimulating proper¬ 
 ties of the air, namely oxygen , is in the greatest abundance 
 when vegetation is in its highest state of excitement, and 
 that this, together with the exciting stimulus of light , 
 
 , which contributes so much to the healthy condition of 
 , vegetables, can never be effectually supplied to any of these 
 in the winter season ; and, therefore, all vegetables, artifi¬ 
 cially deprived of light and pure air, must be more or less 
 diseased, and, in some cases, are rendered less wholesome. 
 It is true w T e blanch celery and a few other culinary plants, 
 to render them more pleasantly edible ; but wdthout a con- 
 i siderable accession of light and air, even these wmuld never 
 arrive at the desired condition. They are, besides, excep¬ 
 tions and not rules. We know also that the highest office 
 of vegetable life consists in the perfection of the seed , and 
 this never arrives at that state without the aid of much 
 light and a considerable portion of pure air, administer to it 
 wffiat artificial heat we please. 
 
 Note, that since the observations on cabbage, both in 
 the note and in the text, in pages 218 and 219, have been 
 printed, w T e have seen wdiat Dr. Paris says (Dietetics, 
 in the Cyclopedia of Practical Medicine ,) concerning 
 Cabbage; and, as we are sincerely desirous of promoting 
 the diffusion of every kind of knowledge which may, by 
 possibility, be useful concerning food, we embrace the 
 opportunity, which a blank half-page affords, to state what 
 the Doctor says. “ The cabbage tribe appear to contain a 
 peculiar essential oil, whence the unpleasant odour of cab¬ 
 bage water; this matter is liable to produce offensive effects 
 on the stomach: the vegetable should therefore be boiled 
 in two successive waters, in order to free it entirely from 
 the noxious ingredient, and at the same time to render its 
 texture soft and digestible.” 
 
 See, also, what is said concerning cabbage in page 222 ; 
 and again in pages 344, 345, and 357. 
 
CHAPTER XV. 
 
 BAKING, BREWING, CYDER, WINES, DISTILLATION, 
 WATERS, SPIRITS, LIQUEURS, &C. ; MEDICINAL 
 cookery, poisons; USEFUL RECIPES. 
 
 Press onward to the Temple! Girt with care. 
 
 Through maze and mire and many a thorny path. 
 
 As humblest pioneers, your willing guides. 
 
 Thus far have we, most anxiously, presum’d. 
 
 Here, with no small delight, YE may rejoice : 
 
 For on your vision shall, ere long, arise 
 The pleasant dawning of a better day. 
 
 Even now the twilight of that day begins ; 
 
 And YE may see, what time the darkness flies. 
 
 Truths all important to your Happiness. 
 
 Press onward to the Temple!—Y et awhile 
 Here would we have you linger to survev 
 The goodly groves, the various fruitful vales 
 Amid the which that pleasant TEMPLE stands, 
 
 Where SCIENCE* sits, serene in simple garb, . 
 
 Imparting lessons to the sons of men ; 
 
 And where, amid her ministers in chief, '* 
 
 Stands active CHEMISTRY that to the ARTS ti 
 
 Of Daily Life is adding evermore. 
 
 Press onward to that Temple! Heed YE not 
 Those Learned Speculations which amuse 
 The Idle and the Vain— those silly gauds !— 
 
 Let Facts that unto Useful Knowledge lead— 
 
 Let Practical Results employ your care. 
 
 Press onward to the Temple! . 3 
 
 _ ■ ji 
 
 3 
 
 General Observations. In all the preceding chap¬ 
 ters of our work, we have often been compelled to depart, 
 most reluctantly, from the views which we have taken of 
 the utilities and simplicities of cookery. We are now, 
 
 * “ Science is knowledge reduced to a system, so as to be 
 conveniently taught, easily remembered, and readily applied.”— 
 Lord Brougham. 
 
BREAD. 
 
 361 
 
 S however, arrived at a more elevated, more dignified spot: 
 for, although we have not failed, as opportunity offered, 
 to show the incongruity of many dishes and their ill ac¬ 
 cordance with health, and with all the known principles 
 of Chemistry,* we have had no opportunity of ob¬ 
 serving, as in this Chapter, that all the processes, 
 namely, those of baking, of brewing , of cyder-making, 
 of the making of wines , and of distillation, are strictly 
 and emphatically chemical processes ; and he who 
 carries them on, in the closest accordance with chemical 
 'principles, will assuredly succeed best. It will be, there¬ 
 fore, our aim here to develope, as simply and as concisely 
 as possible, the principles upon which the arts that we are 
 now about to teach are founded; and if the cook shall not 
 feel gratification at the new view which she will be enabled 
 to take of all these processes, we shall be, indeed, greatly 
 disappointed. 
 
 And first, in regard to the BAKING of BREAD, we 
 request that reference be made to what is said under the 
 General Observations, page 197, and again in pages 
 198 and 199, under Sugar, Starch, and Gluten ; 
 and also under Wheat in page 204, as -well as in many 
 subsequent pages; a careful attention to these will render 
 what we are now about to advance much more intelligible 
 and useful. There are also many observations relative to 
 this subject in our twelfth chapter, to which attention 
 should be given; and also to those under Pies, in page 
 265. 
 
 And here, as a preliminary of some importance, we 
 must observe that, in the analysis of wheat made by Sir 
 H mphry Davy, and given in page 204, from his 
 Elements of Agricultural Chemistry, no mention is made 
 )f sugar; and this is very remarkable. From his known 
 eminence as a chemist, many persons might be disposed to 
 •ely upon his statement. Whence so singular a result 
 •ould arise we cannot divine; but, from almost every other 
 source, we learn that wheat does contain a portion of 
 
 * Chemistry is, at once, the most universal and the most useful 
 f all the natural sciences, and with all other natural science is 
 ,nd ever must be intimately and indissolubly connected. 
 
 R 
 
 
362 
 
 BREAD. 
 
 sugar;* and that it is owing to sugar chiefly, if not 
 entirely, that it so readily goes, when moistened with water, 
 into fermentation. From an analysis of wheat by Mr. 
 Edlin, four drachms avoirdupoise of sugar were obtained 
 from one pound of flour. It is extremely probable that 
 sugar occasionally exists in wheat in much larger quantity 
 than this, or, if not, that some of the starch which wheat 
 contains is converted into sugar during the process of fer¬ 
 mentation. 
 
 From analyses of and experiments on different grains 
 and other vegetables used in making fermented bread, it 
 has been found that those only make the best bread which 
 contain, besides starch and sugar, a considerable quantity 
 of gluten, (see page 199;) which last appears to retain in 
 a gaseous state for some time, a portion of the carbonic 
 acid , (see forwards, under our article Brewing,) that is 
 disengaged during the fermentation of the dough, as well 
 as during the baking of the bread; so that, when the pro¬ 
 cess of Baking is completed, cells are formed in the bread, 
 and the more numerous and moderately large these are 
 the more perfect will the bread be; it is, at the same time, 
 thus rendered most suitable for the process of digestion. 
 But this is not all: for new bread, however well baked, 
 is not proper for many stomachs; indeed it is improper for 
 most; (see page 206.) This fact proves that there is some¬ 
 thing injurious which escapes from the bread during- its 
 cooling, and for some hours afterwards; or, that the bread 
 undergoes some other change which renders it more suit¬ 
 able for the stomach. Hot bread therefore as well as 
 hot rolls ought invariably to be avoided by those who 
 desire to avoid the inconveniences .attendant on a morbid 
 distention of the stomach, and other, and often distressing, 
 dyspeptic symptoms. 
 
 There is also one other condition in the making of good 
 bread which is of very considerable importance, namely, 
 that it must be properly and sufficiently baked: for be 
 your flour and your yeast of the best quality, be the fer- 
 
 * We ought, however, here to state that Dr. Paris (in “ Cyclo¬ 
 pedia of Practical Medicine,” article Dietetics,) calls that which 
 we here denominate sugar, “ a mucilaginous saccharine matter." 
 
bread. 3,33 
 
 rfn'iT r:r° Wel1 C0nducted ’ y° m - well kneaded 
 and put into the oven, yet, if the heat be not sufficient to 
 
 raise it well, it will be more or less unwholesome. This 
 ib a point that requires a further elucidation. A verv con- 
 S ! • em i b o portion of the bread made in the metropolis and 
 elsewhere is not sufficiently baked, and it is, in con¬ 
 sequence, often unfit for the stomach, particularly where 
 here is a disposition to dyspepsia; we are well convinced 
 that persons surfer continually from acidities in that oro-an 
 which are produced, chiefly if not entirely, from incom¬ 
 pletely baked bread; and that they suffer, very frequently 
 without the least suspicion that their sufferings are pro¬ 
 duced by the bread. It should be also observed that the 
 I two-pound loaves are almost always insufficiently baked • 
 
 : his arises from the fact, that those are put into the oven 
 last, ail d are, therefore, not submitted to the same heat • 
 being- less they do not require so much time as the laro-er 
 | .? aVe '!.’ wlllch are generally much better baked, and are 
 . therefore, more wholesome than the small ones. The best 
 baked bread to be obtained in the metropolis is that baked 
 in tins; some of such is called French bread, the cells in 
 ! which are considerably larger than those in the ordinary 
 lo av e s. 1 here has been also lately introduced what is called 
 f etr °P0htan Bread, (see page 372,) which, as far as we 
 nave had an opportunity of observing it, is at once well 
 ; lermented, well baked, and wholesome. We have men¬ 
 tioned one mode of rendering bread more wholesome by 
 converting it into dry toast, (see page 206;) yet even the 
 , coasting of imperfectly fermented or imperfectly baked 
 ‘ bread ^ Vl!! not enth-ely obviate its bad qualities. We con- 
 ! sider the baking of bread in tins a very great improvement 
 m the application of the heat: for bread, however well 
 baked, has oftentimes some of its outside hard and horny 
 not being converted into crust, near the parts where the 
 loaves come in contact with each other; and the horny 
 parts will very often disagree with the stomach. This 
 proves, we think, that one of the most important offices 
 0 ^ be fermentation is that of minutely separating the 
 gluten of the bread. (See page 207 /note.) By the 
 baking of bread in tins the occurrence of horny bread is 
 Wholly prevented. 
 
 r 2 
 
364 
 
 BREAD. 
 
 Dr. Paris says, that “ bread differs very completely 
 from the flour of which it is made; for none of the in¬ 
 gredients of the latter can be discovered in it: it is muc i 
 more miscible with water than dough; and on this circum¬ 
 stance its good qualities, most probably, in great measure 
 depend.” He admits, however, “ that it » not easy to 
 explain the chemical changes which have taken place^ 
 
 See a note forward, page 370, where it will be seen that 
 water exists in large quantity in perfectly fermented bread 
 adding considerably to its weight; but we beg leave re¬ 
 spectfully to doubt whether all the proximate principles 
 of flour undergo so complete a change in the making of 
 bread as this able and scientific physician states.+ 
 
 The necessity, therefore, of bread being both wel er- 
 mented and well baked, will be, hence, apparent. The fine¬ 
 ness of flour in bread is of far less importance than it is 
 
 commonly supposed to be; while its due fermentation and 
 a proper degree of heat are of the first consequence: well 
 fermented and well-baked bread, although coarse suits the 
 stomach much better than the finest bread when ill fer- 
 
 mented or ill baked. . . , , . 
 
 The decree of heat and the time of retaining bread in 
 
 the oven are, therefore, deserving of the utmost attention. 
 From the most accurate observations it appears that the 
 
 * Cvclovcedia of Practical Medicine, article Dietetics. 
 
 + The saccharine matter is, we make no question, decomposed, 
 and very possibly, some of the starch might be converted into 
 “ „ 2d in like manner decomposed; but we do question 
 whether the gluten be further changed than in being combined 
 
 with water and finely attenuated. As starch is so readily solut 
 in boiling water we can easily understand that, on being sub¬ 
 jected to°the heat of a baker’s oven, the water in the dough will 
 combine with it and form a mucilage; and, when in this state, we 
 see why the crumb of bread so soon becomes mouldy andspoiils, 
 f nr t connected with the subject of biead . lor 
 
 SSTf, ±i ^t f wbl e s»mt so ruu'Sra'fpeV; 
 
 fermented and recently baked bread, twenty-four hours or more 
 old. 
 
BREAD. 
 
 365 
 
 heat of the oven ought to be at about the 450th degree of 
 Fahrenheit’s thermometer; that is, considerably more than 
 double the heat of boiling water, which is 212°. The bakers 
 do not often use the thermometer; but they reckon the 
 oven sufficiently heated when flour thrown on the floor of it 
 becomes black very soon without taking fire. But there is 
 another way by which the heat of an oven can be, in some 
 measure, ascertained. It will be observed that, during - the 
 burning of the fire which is kindled in it to heat it, a con¬ 
 siderable quantity of black matter, carbon , stains various 
 parts of the oven; now, when the oven approaches the heat 
 which is necessary, those black stains gradually disappear; 
 and, at length, when it has acquired its necessary heat, 
 the black stains will be wholly gone, and all the sides, floor, 
 and roof, be equally hot, while the fire itself will be perfectly 
 bright and clear: the heat being then sufficient to combine 
 the carbon with the oxygen of the air, and thus the carbon, 
 being - converted into carbonic acid , is carried away. 
 The time in which bread should be kept in the oven is 
 about two hours and a half; sometimes more. But, of 
 course, if the loaves be small, they will not require so 
 much as this. The cook’s discretion must, therefore, 
 in baking, be always on the alert. (See forwards, 
 page 373.) 
 
 As wheat contains gluten in larger quantity than any 
 other grain, mankind have long since practically acquired a 
 knowledge of the fact that it makes the best and most 
 nutritious bread. We are, notwithstanding, indebted more 
 t especially to the researches of the last fifty years for the 
 more complete analysis of wheat and other grains ; although 
 Lewis, Materia Medica, article Frumentum, quoting 
 Rouelle, Journ. de Med. 1773, informs us that one of 
 the constituents of grain is “ a glutinous vegeto-animal 
 matter;” which is, we conclude, what modern science 
 denominates gluten* Wheat is, for this reason, most 
 
 * “ Gluten submitted to destructive distillation affords am¬ 
 monia, and is, in other respects, similar to the animal principle 
 called albumen.” Bkande. It has been separated by some mo¬ 
 dern chemists into two substances, one of which is called gliadine, 
 the other zirnone; but it is not necessary that we should here de¬ 
 scribe these substances. What is most remarkable in gluten, be- 
 
366 
 
 BREAD. 
 
 commonly employed for the making of Bread. It is said 
 that, although wheat will grow in the latitude of 60° north, 
 and produce good crops in that climate, the grain improves 
 in quality as we advance towards the south; that the wheat 
 of the south of England is better than that raised in Scot¬ 
 land ; that French wheat is superior to English ; Italian to 
 French ; and that the best wheat is, probably, raised in 
 Egypt and Barbary. Thin-skinned Sicilian wheat, accord¬ 
 ing to Sir Humphry Davy, contains 239 parts in a thou¬ 
 sand of gluten. Spring wheat affords, according to the 
 same authority, 240 parts of gluten. (See page 204). 
 
 But although wheat is a grain usually, in this country at 
 least, converted into bread, others are occasionally employed 
 for this purpose. Rye, after w'heat, is said to be the best. 
 (See Rye, page 209.) Beans contain a considerable quan¬ 
 tity of gluten, and may be therefore made also into bread ; 
 (see Beans, page 211). Bari.ey is also occasionally made 
 into bread; but it is a poor substitute for that from wheat. 
 (See Barley', page 207.) From what has been said, it is 
 clear that Potatoes alone, they containing a very small 
 quantity of gluten, cannot make good bread; yet when 
 they are mixed in certain proportions with wheat flour, they 
 make a very pleasant and wholesome, but we much doubt 
 whether a profitable bread. It is, however, said that a 
 considerable quantity of potatoes is employed in making 
 bread by the bakers of the metropolis; this they would not 
 do, unless the mixture w r ere profitable to them. (See for¬ 
 wards, and also page 212). 
 
 Sugar, as we have seen, is by far the smallest of the 
 constituents of wheat flour; its most distinguishing pro¬ 
 perty is that, being dissolved in water, it ferments of itself, 
 without the addition of any yeast; whereas the sugar of 
 commerce does not undergo that process unless yeast be 
 
 sides its quality of rendering bread more spongy when it is fer¬ 
 mented is, that when in the state of povvuer, as it exists in wheat 
 flour, it combines readily with water, and thus acquires tenacity 
 and adhesiveness, yet it is insoluble in that fluid. See Uhf.’s 
 Dictionary, article Gluten. See also Fourcroy’s Chemistry, 
 English Edit, of 1790, Yol. III., on the Glutinous part of icheut. 
 “ In many of its properties it bears a great resemblance to the 
 fibrous part of blood.” Page 71. 
 

 BREAD. 
 
 367 
 
 mixed with its aqueous solution. Hence the reason why 
 the dough of wheat flour ferments and is converted into 
 leaven; but if the sugar be washed out of the flour with 
 water, the fermentation, which is vinous , does not take 
 place. It is at first only confined to the saccharine matter ; 
 and here, if possible, the process ought to be stopped; but 
 as this is not usually possible, the acetous fermentation 
 begins, and more or less vinegar is formed. Hence the 
 utility of adding yeast to flour in the making of bread, in 
 order to complete, as soon as possible, the fermentation ; 
 and to prevent, as much as may be, the dough from be¬ 
 coming sour. 
 
 As UNLEAVENED Bread is flour made into dough 
 with water, and baked or otherwise highly dried, it has 
 nearly, if not exactly, the same properties as unfermented 
 wheat flour; and, therefore, when taken into the stomach, 
 it goes, of course, into the fermentation to which wheat 
 flour is liable ; and, consequently, unless for stomachs of 
 extraordinary powers of digestion, it must be more or less 
 unwholesome. 
 
 The employment of yeast in the making of bread is a 
 great improvement upon the practice of the ancients, who 
 employed leaven for the purpose. At the present time as 
 no effectual method has been discovered of preserving 
 yeast for a long time in such a state as to render it applica¬ 
 ble for the making of bread, ships which goon long voyages, 
 East-Indiamen for instance, usually employ the leaven of 
 the previous day for the production of hot rolls, &c. on the 
 next, throughout the voyage. See forwards, article Yeast. 
 
 BAKING WITH LEAVEN. Some flour must be 
 made into dough with water; this being set in a warm 
 place, is left for about thirty-six hours, during which period 
 it swells considerably and becomes of a thinner consistence. 
 By this fermentation it acquires a peculiar smell and a dis¬ 
 agreeable sour taste, and is called Leaven ; this being- 
 mixed with a quantity of fresh dough occasions the whole 
 to underg-o a speedy fermentation and to swell precisely in 
 the same manner as dough mixed with yeast. Bread skil¬ 
 fully made in this manner with a proper quantity of salt,'* 
 
 •' ** A pound of salt is generally added to each bushel of flour. 
 
368 
 
 BREAD.—POTASH.— CAKES. 
 
 is said to be not inferior to bread made with yeast; but un¬ 
 skilfully managed, it is sour, and contains a quantity of 
 acetic acid. Carbonate of Potash, i. e. the common 
 white potash or pearl-ash of the shops, offers, it is true, 
 a ready and not unwholesome way of neutralizing the acid; 
 and hence we may perceive the utility of this article if used 
 in the making of bread when much acid is present, whether 
 it be made with leaven or with yeast. The bakers of the me¬ 
 tropolis know, we believe, well this, and do not fail to use it 
 occasionally, if not very often.* But bread is not com¬ 
 monly made with leaven in this country; nor do we advise 
 the cook to adopt so precarious a method of obtaining good 
 bread, when by a much better process the same object can 
 he accomplished. 
 
 It is, however, on the neutralizing quality of potash, 
 when exposed to an acid of more powerful affinity than 
 carbonic acid, that, in the United States of America, Pot¬ 
 ash cakes are prepared. They consist of wheat flour, salt, 
 sour milk, and a certain proportion of potash. The acid in 
 the milk combines with the potash, and thus sets the car¬ 
 bonic acid free, and this produces the 'porousness of the 
 cake, as in our ordinary fermentation of bread. We are, 
 nevertheless, not prepared to recommend this cake as equal 
 to one made with flour properly fermented with yeast. Nor 
 are we disposed to recommend, instead of carbonate of pot- 
 
 Hence it may be presumed that every adult consumes two ounces 
 of salt per week, or six pounds and a half per annum, in bread 
 only.”— Paris in Practical Cyclopcedia of Medicine, art. Dietetics. 
 
 * Pearl-ash is most easily purified ; it is only necessary to dis¬ 
 solve it in water and let the solution remain for a few hours ; the 
 impurities will sink to the bottom of the vessel, and the clear liquid 
 can then be poured off. If it be desired to obtain the salt in a 
 solid form, the liquid must be boiled down to dryness in an iron 
 vessel, constantly stirring it towards the end of the process. In 
 this state it is called by the chemists sub-carbonate of potash, by 
 mostother persons, Salt of Tartar, (for the same kind ofsaltmay 
 be obtained from tartar after the tartaric acid is burnt out of it), 
 which, as found in the shops, is in small white grains of an equal 
 size, produced by sifting the salt, when fresh made and dry, 
 through a coarse hair sieve, and by pounding the larger lumps so 
 as to render them capable of passing through the sieve. We have 
 been somewhat particular concerning carbonate of potash, it being 
 a very useful article for making eifervescent mixtures. See 
 Lemonade, forwards. 
 
BREAD. 
 
 369 
 
 ash, Carbonate of Ammonia, (Smelling Salts,) an 
 article now to be obtained cheap, in consequence of its 
 existence in coal, whence it is obtained at the Coal Gas 
 Works. It is, we believe, sometimes used by the bakers of 
 the metropolis. It is not unwholesome ; but it cannot be of 
 so much value in the making of good bread as yeast. 
 Carbonic Acid, it must not be forgotten, is, when un¬ 
 combined, and under ordinary circumstances, in the state 
 of Gas. See forwards, under Brewing. 
 
 We do not deem it necessary in a work of this kind to 
 detail the method of making bread in the large way; those 
 who desire such information may consult the Family 
 Cyclopaedia article Bread ; we give, however, from 
 that work the following method of making— 
 
 GOOD BREAD FOR A FAMILY. Take of good 
 and sifted wheat flour six pounds ; of water moderately 
 warm, but not hot, two pints and a half; of liquid yeast 
 eight spoonsful; of salt two ounces. Put about a pint of 
 the warm water to the yeast, and mix it well by beating 
 them together with a whisk. Let the salt be put to the 
 remaining water and stirred till it is completely dissolved. 
 Then put both quantities of the fluid gradually to the flour, 
 and knead the mass well till the whole is properly mixed. 
 The dough, thus made, must stand four or five hours, that 
 
 I is, till the exact moment of its having fully risen, and 
 before it is sensibly perceived t.o fall. It is then to be formed 
 into loaves, and immediately placed in the oven. To bake 
 it properly, the first care is to see that the oven be suffi¬ 
 ciently heated, (see above page 365) yet not to such a degree 
 as to burn the crust. If a green vegetable turns black, 
 when put in, the oven will scorch the bread, in which case 
 it must stand open till the heat is somewhat abated, The 
 mouth of the oven must be well closed, till the bread has 
 risen to its full height, which will not take place in less than 
 two or three hours. After this, but not before, the oven 
 may be opened for the purpose of viewing the bread. If 
 the mouth of the oven be not kept closely stopped till the 
 bread has fully risen, it will flatten and become heavy. 
 When properly managed, the above-mentioned ingredients 
 will have lost about one pound two ounces in weight; so 
 
 R 3 
 
370 
 
 BREAD. 
 
 that a baked loaf of this kind should weigh seven pounds 
 twelve ounces. 
 
 ANOTHER METHOD. Let a peck of good flour be 
 sifted into a trough or tub ; make a hole in the middle of 
 it, into which pour a pint each of yeast and lukewarm 
 water mixed together ; let this liquor be mixed with a por¬ 
 tion of the flour till it becomes a thin paste ; set the tub in 
 a warm place for an hour, that the sponge, as it is called, 
 may ferment; then mix the whole with two quarts more of 
 lukewarm water and a little salt, (for the proportion see 
 above,) knead it of a proper consistence, and let it remain 
 another hour, and then knead it again ; after its remaining 
 one hour more knead it again, form it into loaves of the 
 size you may choose, and bake it. 
 
 Or, you may mix the sponge in a separate vessel, adding 
 also the salt to it, allowing great room for its rising ; it 
 should remain as sponge for five or six hours, when the 
 rest of the flour and water must be mixed with it; the 
 whole being kneaded well together must remain for two 
 hours more tmd then be kneaded again : form it into 
 loaves and put them into the oven. 
 
 Note, that we have set down the whole quantity of water 
 to be employed at five pints ; but some flour may require 
 much more water than this to be made into dough of a pro¬ 
 per consistence. American flour, in particular, is generally 
 drier than English flour, and therefore requires more 
 water ; it is for this reason esteemed, and in fact is, more 
 economical as to the quantity of bread produced.* 
 
 * Mrs. Rundell says that fourteen pounds of American ilour 
 will make twenty-one pounds and a half of bread; whereas the 
 same quantity of the best English flour produces only eighteen 
 pounds and a half. Rut there is, doubtless, much variation i i 
 the quality and dryness of the flour of both countries. 
 
 We have not deemed it necessary in this article to say much 
 about the quality of flour, because we conclude that it will be ob¬ 
 tained of those who are reputed honest tradesmen. That it is 
 sometimes mixed with bean flour and other inferior flours there is 
 little doubt; but, as we have elsewhere stated, the pioper fer¬ 
 mentation and baking of the bread is of the most consequence. 
 The demand for white bread by those who know little about the 
 really good qualities of bread has tempted the baker to employ 
 
FRENCH BREAD. 
 
 371 
 
 And note 'particularly , that all bread, cakes, and bis¬ 
 cuits, previously to being put into the oven, should have the 
 tops perforated with wires prepared for the purpose, in order 
 that the gas which is evolved during the baking, may in 
 some degree escape: this is designed to prevent an un¬ 
 sightly, and in fact improper puffing up of the bread, &c. 
 
 FRENCH BREAD. A quarter of a pint of fresh 
 yeast, as free from bitterness as possible, diluted with one 
 pint and a half or two pints of warm water, must be well 
 mixed with six pounds of good wheat flour ; cover over the 
 mixture with flannel; and when the dough has risen suf¬ 
 ficiently, three pints of skimmed milk and four ounces of 
 salt must be worked up with it till the whole becomes ropy , 
 when it must be again covered and kept for some time warm. 
 The dough must now be made into rolls, or put into tin 
 moulds of any desired size and baked in a quick oven, ac¬ 
 cording to the weight of the loaves—from half an hour to 
 an hour and a half. When the bread is drawn it is usual 
 to rasp off the darker part of the crust. 
 
 Note that, in making French Bread , the dough should 
 be handled as little as possible, so that the gaseous matter 
 might not be pressed out before it is baked; nor should it 
 be quite so stiff as dough for common bread. And note, 
 also, that here the chief object appears to be to add the 
 albumen of milk, which is similar in its properties to 
 gluten, in order that the bread may be made more light, 
 porous, and nutricious. Some will add to the above in¬ 
 gredients butter, eggs, and sugar, the utility of which we 
 j cannot perceive. 
 
 Or, than the above, a better way will be to mix the 
 yeast diluted wfith warm water, and the skimmed milk 
 with the flour at once into a batter; when it has sufficiently 
 risen, add the salt dissolved in a little warm water, which 
 being mixed with the dough intimately must be sub¬ 
 sequently treated as above directed. 
 
 some ingredient or ingredients to produce it. We may be sure 
 that, under ordinary circumstances, the whiter and finer grained 
 the bread is, the greater probability there is that it has alum or 
 some other blanching material in it. 
 
372 
 
 METROPOLITAN BREAD. 
 
 POTATOE BREAD. Boil good mealy potatoes* as 
 for eating; peel and mash them fine without any water; 
 two parts of flour must be added to one of potatoes, and 
 also a proper quantity of salt, and a little more yeast than 
 is used for common bread. Let the whole be kneaded into 
 dough, with a little warm water if necessary ; and after 
 remaining a proper time to rise and ferment, make it into 
 loaves and bake it as other bread. 
 
 For Rolls, Bread Cakes, and Tops and Bottoms, 
 seepages 292 and 300; for Biscuits of various kinds 
 see pages 299 and 300. 
 
 METROPOLITAN BREAD. A patent was granted 
 in December 1830, to Mr. Idix, for a method of obtaining 
 spirit or alcohol from fermented dough during the baking of 
 it into bread. The oven for this purpose is made of iron, 
 the bottom being covered with fire bricks, on which, of 
 course, the bread is placed, usually in tin moulds. The 
 door of the oven is air-tight. The fire is made in a furnace 
 beneath the oven ; and the heat is thus supplied not only to 
 the bottom of the oven where means are taken to equalize 
 it, but also around and over it by flues. It is stated in the 
 specification of this patent, that the proper heat of the oven, 
 when in operation, is from 280° to 310° of Fahrenheit’s 
 thermometer. At the top of the oven is a pipe which leads 
 
 * Mealy potatoes are not only necessary for the making good 
 potatoe bread , but it will be generally found that all potatoes 
 which are not mealy are more or less unwholesome. The new 
 potatoes usually met with in London are round , in general un¬ 
 wholesome and bad boilers ; being almost always watery and 
 delicient in mealiness. It is singular that the horticulturists around 
 London have not yet obtained the art of obviating this defect. It 
 is true a few early kidneys (see page 212) can be now there 
 obtained, but at a great price. It is remarkable, also, that few 
 persons in London have the opportunity of enjoying the luxury of 
 a good new potatoe, while in many of the provinces they are 
 readily obtained : there is something, we suspect, in the soil 
 around the metropolis that is unfavourable to their production. 
 We admire most of our metropolitan vegetables, such as 
 cabbages, cauliflowers, &c. as well as fruit; but we are obliged, 
 most reluctantly, to make these observations concerning new 
 potatoes. We hope to find that the defect has been remedied. 
 
BREAD.—KNEADING. 
 
 373 
 
 to a refrigeratory worm, by which the alcoholic vapour and 
 the steam arising from the bread during the baking are con¬ 
 densed. The spirit thus obtained must be afterwards puri¬ 
 fied by the rectifier. The bread thus baked is now well 
 known in the metropolis, and is called Metropolitan 
 Bread; and the making of which is carried on by a 
 Company. (See an account of the patent in the Journal 
 of Arts for August, 1833.) 
 
 Note, that we have in page 365, concerning the heat 
 necessary to be employed in an oven for baking bread 
 referred to this article; and here we may observe that, if 
 what is stated in the specification of the patent be true, 
 and we have no reason to doubt it, it is evident that the 
 degree of 450° is by far too much. It must be remem¬ 
 bered, however, that when an oven is heated to this last 
 degree, the fire is wholly withdrawn; and, consequently, 
 that, from the moment of its withdrawal, the heat gradually 
 declines; but in the baking of metropolitan bread, the heat 
 is, we presume, constantly kept at the same degree, or 
 nearly so ; and, consequently, insures not only a more 
 complete baking of the bread than in ordinary ovens, but 
 the most effectual disengagement of the alcohol, &c. We 
 see every thing to commend in this process, and recom¬ 
 mend this plan of the equalization of the heat during 
 the whole time that the bread is in the oven, to the atten¬ 
 tion of bakers generally. And here we may add a word 
 or two about 
 
 KNEADING. From what has been observed concern¬ 
 ing the metropolitan as well as French bread , we are 
 decidedly of opinion that the ordinary bread everywhere 
 to be met with in this country is too much kneaded, and, 
 in consequence, is less raised than good and wholesome 
 bread ought to be. It is evident that, if bread be kneaded 
 just before it is put into the oven, as ordinary bread inva¬ 
 riably is by rolling as well as otherwise, some of the gas 
 to which its porousness is owing must escape; while, on 
 the contrary, the French and, we conclude, the metropoli¬ 
 tan bread, being baked in tins, does not undergo the last 
 process of kneading and rolling which common bread does ; 
 and hence the superior wholesomeness of these breads, 
 
374 
 
 YEAST. 
 
 when well baked, to the ordinary bread of the shops. It 
 is not meant by these observations that the dough is not to 
 be kneaded at all; far from it; when the w r ater, &c. ne¬ 
 cessary for forming- the flour into dough are added, the 
 mass should be then well kneaded in order to their complete 
 mixture; but afterwards, when the fermentation has 
 begun, all further kneading should, as much as possible, 
 be avoided: where spirit is to be obtained from the bread 
 this is of the utmost importance. 
 
 YEAST or BARM consists of a variety of ingredients; 
 but the chief is gluten, to which it is believed to owe its 
 fermenting property when mixed with bread, with malt, or 
 other liquors which contain a portion, more or less large, 
 of sugar. The best yeast is obtained from the fermentation 
 of malt liquor, and is that which bakers in general employ 
 in the fermentation of their bread.* 
 
 Various have been the expedients resorted to for the 
 preservation as well as generation of yeast. We are not 
 aware that any can be recommended which have been 
 at once effectual and economical. Good fresh yeast may 
 be kept for several months by being placed in a stout can¬ 
 vas bag, and gently squeezed till the remaining matter is 
 of the consistence of stiff clay. In this state it should be 
 pressed into a stone jar, or a tight cask, secured completely 
 from the air, and be kept in a cool place, subject to no 
 alteration of temperature. 
 
 It may otherwise, after being pressed, be dried in a 
 gentle heat before the fire, or in an oven moderately 
 heated. When dry it must be kept in jars or bottles closely 
 stopped. When it is wanted to be used, it should be 
 dissolved in fresh brisk ale, made warm. 
 
 A substitute for yeast may be made by boiling four 
 ounces of wheat flour in two quarts of water for half an 
 hour, to which are added three ounces of raw sugar. 
 When the mixture is nearly cold, mix with it two ounces 
 of yeast in a vessel sufficiently large to permit it to expand 
 
 * According to Dr. Paris we are indebted to the ancient Gauls 
 for the employment of yeast in the making of bread. It was in¬ 
 troduced at Paris towards the end of the seventeenth century, 
 when the faculty declared against the practice. 
 
is K hVi ING. 
 
 0/0 
 
 by fermentation; after which it must be well shaken 
 placed near the fire for a day, and then the thin liquor 
 must be poured off the surface; the remainder must be 
 shaken, strained, placed in ajar well stopped, and kept in 
 a cool place till wanted. * 
 
 Yeast is useful to make poultices with flour, &c to be 
 applied to foul and gangrenous ulcers. The London Phar. 
 orders a poultice to be thus made with itTake one pound 
 o flour, yeast of beer half a pint; mix them, and expose 
 a .S‘ entle heat until ^ begins to swell, 
 u- a i ' I^G is decidedly a chemical process, in which 
 chiefly the sugar of the malt prepared from barley and some 
 other gram is extracted, and, after the addition of hops 
 or other bitters, is converted by proper fermenta tion into 
 either strong beer, ale, porter, or small beer. 
 
 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS. We have alluded in 
 page 20o to the chief use of barley when converted into 
 malt, to which the reader will be good enough to refer; 
 as well as to what is said under Vinegars in page 332' 
 and also to what is said under our article Baking in 
 regard to the fermentation of bread, and again forwards 
 under C yder, Wines, and Distillation. Although the 
 conversion of barley into malt is not absolutely necessary 
 lor the making of beer, yet it has been found that the 
 sugar may be more easily extracted from malt than from 
 the raw grain ; and therefore it is that malt is generallv 
 employed for the purpose; in addition to which the expe¬ 
 riments of Mr. Brands seem to prove that, in the process 
 of malting, some of the starch of the barley is converted 
 f lnt ° sugar; and, therefore, that a given quantity of malt 
 will produce more spirit (on which chiefly the goodness of 
 ma ‘t liquors depend) than the same quantity oEbariey un- 
 1 malted It is said, however, that there is a practice among- 
 some of the great brewers of the metropolis, of adding a 
 certain portion of sulphuric acid to raw barley, and that 
 this causes the barley to yield more sugar than any process 
 ot malting. But such practice the Family Cook will not 
 * be very likely, and under our present excise laws in regard 
 to the duty on malt, would not, w^e believe, be permitted to 
 idopt; we must therefore treat here only of the best 
 
376 BREWING.—THE HOP. 
 
 methods of brewing from malt. We may, nevertheless, 
 in passing, observe that almost every grain besides barley 
 may be employed to produce a spirit , and consequently a 
 beer; in America it is made from Indian coin ; in Afiica, 
 it is said the negroes make beer from the seeds of a species 
 of grass, the holcus spicatus, and wheat , rye , and oats 
 are occasionally employed for the same purpose, jet, as 
 barley contains a very large quantity of sugar as compared 
 with other grains, it is in this country usually preferred. 
 (See page 208.) We might here describe the process of 
 making malt , but as it is under the regulation of the excise 
 we omit it; those who desire to understand it will find it 
 described in our Family Cyclopedia, article Malt.. 
 
 It is now well known, at least to those who have studied 
 the subject with proper attention, that Beer, the generic 
 term for all malt liquors, is a vinous or spirituous liquor 
 made principally from the sugar obtained by infusion 
 (not boiling ) from most kinds of farinaceous grain; but 
 any vegetable which contains sugar, and which is not 
 in other respects injurious, or from which sugar can by any 
 process be developed, can be used for the production of 
 such liquor. The flavour of all depending in every instance 
 upon the aroma (see page 202,) the extractive matter of 
 the vegetable, and a portion of essential oil , (see page 201,) 
 either "of the vegetable itself, or in the matters added to the 
 liquor during the process of malting it, or afterwards; or, if 
 malt be used, on the method in which it is dried. 
 
 The hop is one of the additions to which we have 
 alluded ; and although a few centuries ago it was considered 
 poisonous, it is now universally demanded as a necessary 
 article to make good malt liquor. It is said that the addi¬ 
 tion of the hop to such liquor keeps it good much longer 
 than it would keep without it, under exactly the same cir- 
 cmiiglftxices. We have been, and still aie, somewhat 
 sceptical as to the useful qualities of hops in malt liquors; 
 but Dr. Paris, to whose able paper on Dietetics we 
 have more than once alluded, says that “ independently 
 of the flavour and tonic virtues which they communicate, 
 they precipitate by means of their astringent principle the 
 vegetable mucilage, and thus remove from the beer the 
 

 BREWING.—WORT. 377 
 
 active principle of fermentation; without hops, therefore, 
 we must either drink our malt liquors new and ropy, or old 
 and sour.” 
 
 And here it is quite necessary to make some observations 
 on the heat of the water employed in mashing the malt. 
 As starch dissolves in boiling 1 writer, and in water some 
 degrees below the boiling-point (212°); great care must be 
 taken that the w-ater is not poured on the malt so hot as to 
 dissolve the starch; for if much of that ingredient be dis¬ 
 solved in the liquor your beer will be more or less ropy, and 
 be rendered otherwise very unfit to drink. We must re¬ 
 member that it is not the starch which is wanted but the 
 sugar and a portion of the nutritive or extractive matter, 
 both of which will dissolve in water at a much less heat than 
 that which is required to dissolve starch. The heat of from 
 160° to 180° degrees is sufficient to dissolve and wash out 
 both these ingredients together with some others on which the 
 flavour depends. Sugar being the basis of alcohol or spirit 
 of wine, a portion of yeast is mixed with the wort when 
 cooled down to about 65° or 70 c (a heat somewhat below 
 what is called summer heat in this country) in order to 
 produce the vinous fermentation, during which the sugar 
 contained in the wort is decomposed and spirit of wine or 
 alcohol is formed inexact proportion to the quantity of sugar 
 in the wort; in other words according to the strength of it; 
 and during which a large quantity of carbonic acid gas is 
 disengaged producing, besides, with the yeast a large 
 quantity of froth. See Yeast, page 374. 
 
 The Wort obtained from an infusion of malt as above 
 stated consists chiefly of saccharine matter, starch, muci¬ 
 lage, or extractive matter and a little gluten. The strength 
 pf wort is determined by its weight; that which is heaviest 
 contains the most sugar, and will consequently make the 
 (strongest liquor. An instrument called a saccharometer 
 has been invented, by -which the relative value of different 
 vorts may be estimated: the wort for strong beer or good 
 de ought to weigh from 1,090 to 1,100 when compared 
 vith a wine pint of distilled water, the weight of which is 
 1000, or, in other words, one pound avordupoise.* The 
 
 * See forwards concerning the weight of Cyder. 
 
378 
 
 BREWING. 
 
 yeast is added to the wort to accelerate the fermentation , 
 by which process the alcohol or spirit is formed ; but fermen¬ 
 tation is, besides this, decidedly a purifying process, during 
 which is thrown off considerably more yeast than that which 
 was originally mixed with it; this is derived chiefly from 
 the gluten of which yeast principally consists; and thus, 
 with some other feculencies, either mixed with the yeast or 
 deposited at the bottom of the vessel, the liquor becomes 
 clear and much lighter in weight, and fitted for being- 
 drunk. 
 
 When the active fermentation is over, the beer is usually 
 put into casks ; but there is a slow' fermentation in all strong 
 fermented liquors still going on in ordinary temperatures ; 
 and, therefore, the liquor will not arrive at its ultimate 
 strength, its best state, till all or nearly all the sugar in it 
 is decomposed ; in ale moderately strong, from two to three 
 months are necessary; but a hogshead of strong beer will 
 require twelve or more months to complete its fermentation 
 and to arrive at its best state. 
 
 The gas to w'hich w-e have alluded above is one in which 
 no animal can breathe for a moment, nor will a candle burn 
 in it. It is, therefore, necessar)*- to take care that, in going 
 into a cellar or other place in which the active fermentation 
 of malt liquor is going on, the room is well ventilated, 
 or the result may be fatal. It is also necessary in cleansing- 
 vats or casks which have had malt liquor in them that they 
 should be freely ventilated with common air. 
 
 And it is likewise of essential importance to know that 
 carbonic acid gas is considerably heavier than common air, 
 and that it will be found during the fermentation of malt 
 liquors to be constantly flowing over the sides of the vat or 
 cask down to the ground. A candle being immersed in the 
 gas wall be extinguished, and the smoke of the candle will 
 besides demonstrate its presence. 
 
 The best time for brewing good malt liquor is when the 
 weather is neither very hot nor very cold; frosty w-eather 
 is not good; neither is excessively hot weather; in cold 
 w'eather the fermentation will be wholly prevented or very 
 much impeded; in very hot weather it may be so rapid as 
 to pass over the vinous into the acetous fermentation, and 
 thus the liquor will be spoiled. October is a proverbial 
 
BREWING.—HOPS. 
 
 379 
 
 month for brewing ; and it is generally a very good one— 
 from the equability of its temperature ; next to October the 
 months of March and April are to be preferred. 
 
 The water employed in brewing is also of some conse¬ 
 quence. Rain water, if to be obtained clean and sweet, is 
 the best; next to this river water, if soft, is to be preferred ; 
 but spring or hard water which contains generally a portion, 
 more or less of calcareous or other earthy matters notwith¬ 
 standing its transparency, should, if possible, be avoided. 
 
 ( Before beginning the process of brewing care must be 
 j especially taken that the boiler in which the water is to be 
 made hot and in which the wort is afterwards to be boiled, 
 that the mash-tun or vat, that all the tubs and coolers, and 
 that the casks into which the liquor is to be put, are all 
 »' clean, sweet, and wholesome; and that tire casks, in parti¬ 
 cular, be perfectly tight and sound. 
 
 And here it should be observed that although a copper 
 boiler is usually employed in brewing, chiefly because it is a 
 better conductor of heat than iron; yet as copper, when 
 , 1 combined with any acid, becomes a poison more or less 
 active, it should not be employed in fermenting malt liquor; 
 as soon, therefore, as the boiling is completed and the 
 liquor removed, the boiler should be immediately well 
 I washed with water and otherwise completely cleaned and 
 j dried : for even common water, if it remain for some time 
 in the copper, will cause it to become rusty, and conse¬ 
 quently unwholesome. To let any water, wort, &c. stand 
 in a copper to cool, or to remain there after it is cooled, is a 
 practice which must invariably be avoided. 
 
 We have mentioned hops* as being usually employed for 
 
 * Hops arc* the dried flower buds, by some called strobiles, of 
 the Huhiulus lupulus, a well known indigenous, perennial, climbing 
 plant, growing in hedges and flowering in July. The cultivation 
 j of the hop was first introduced from Flanders in the year 1524; 
 and it is said that hops were first used in English beer in the 
 latter part of the reign of Henry VIII. The prejudice against 
 them was so great that the City of London, one hundred years 
 i after wards, petitioned Parliament to prevent their use; at the 
 present time, 1833, severe penalties are levied on brewers who use 
 any other bitter in their beer! See what is quoted from Dr. Paris 
 i above concerning hops ; to which we may add that as a medicine 
 Shops are now considered narcotic, tonic, and diuretic. That as 
 
380 
 
 BREWING. — BITTERS. 
 
 the purpose of flavouring and preserving malt liquors; but 
 other bitters are also occasionally used; a wood called 
 Quassia has been for some years known, and is, we 
 believe, very much used by some brewers in the large way 
 instead of hops. Quassia * is not an unwholesome addition ; 
 it imparts an intensely bitter taste; but there is a peculiar 
 aroma which accompanies the bitter of the hop in w r hich 
 quassia is decidedly deficient. Of the comparative value 
 of the two we cannot determine, not being sufficiently 
 persuaded of their conservative powers. Judging from 
 the taste of different brewers’ malt liquors, w T e should say 
 that quassia is used by some brewers very extensively 
 while others employ it sparingly, if at all. We believe that 
 gentian root f is quite as good as, perhaps a better, bitter 
 than quassia; and it is probable that it is sometimes em¬ 
 ployed to impart a bitter taste to beer ; but we do not happen 
 to be cognizant of the fact. 
 
 Besides the bitters employed in the making of beer, we 
 may here mention that it is said, at the present time, several 
 other ingredients are employed by brewers in the large way 
 to render their liquors more intoxicating at less expense 
 than that of employing malt in order to obtain spirit for the 
 purpose. Among these opium, the inspissated milky juice ob- 
 
 the male and female grow on different plants, the female is that 
 only which is cultivated ; that Hop-tops (see page 231,) are occa¬ 
 sionally boiled and eaten like asparagus. There are, nevertheless, 
 several varieties of the cultivated hop. 
 
 * Quassia is the wood and root of the Quassia excelsa, a lofty 
 tree growing in the West Indies and many parts of South America. 
 All the parts of the tree, as well as the wood and root, are in¬ 
 tensely bitter, the bark is said to be the most so. The wood is 
 usually cut into small bits or shavings before it is used. It is a 
 very useful medical bitter ; but Dr. T. Thomson states that “ beer 
 made with it certainly does not keep, but soon becomes muddy, 
 flat, has a mawkish taste, and runs into the acetous fermentation.” 
 London Dispensatory, article Quassia. 
 
 f Gentian Root is obtained from the Gentiana Lutca or Yellow 
 Gentian, a perennial plant, native of Austria, the Alps, the Pyre¬ 
 nees, and of North America. That which is found in the shops in 
 this country is brought from Germany. It is a very useful medical 
 bitter, and has been long used as such. It yields its virtues very 
 readily to boi'ing water. It is, consequently, a very wholesome 
 root. 
 
NARCOTICS. — ALE. 
 
 381 
 
 tained from incisions in the green heads of the single white 
 poppy, may be mentioned; as well Cocculus Indicus or 
 Indian berry, the produce of the menispermum cocculus, 
 a plant native of the East Indies; these berries are highly 
 intoxicating and poisonous; and are, it is to be feared, now 
 employed in large quantities in the making of London 
 porter, notwithstanding there is a severe penalty attached 
 to such employment. The seeds of White Darnel, 
 Lolium temulentum, and also the flowers of Gaule, wild 
 or Dutch myrtle (myrica gale) a strongly scented shrub 
 native of the boggy districts of this country, were formerly 
 employed to impart an intoxicating property to malt 
 liquors;* but we believe not now, unless in some of the 
 remote districts of Scotland. As the uses of all the 
 narcotics here mentioned, as well as others of what kind 
 soever they may be, such as nux vomica, are of very 
 questionable value or utility at any time in malt liquor, we 
 cannot advocate their employment, and advise all family 
 brewers to confine themselves to good malt and good hops. 
 Opium is an excellent medicine, but bad as a daily drink; 
 and nux vomica and cocculus Indicus are decided poisons, 
 never being employed medicinally. Some other ingredients 
 are mentioned under Porter ; but we do not recommend 
 their being used. 
 
 ALE. To make a barrel, 36 gallons, of good ale, take 
 of malt three bushels, of hops two pounds. Having mea¬ 
 sured the quantity of water which the cask will hold by a 
 pail or bucket, put that quantity into the copper or other 
 boiler, and make it boil; as soon as it boils dip off half of 
 it into a tub or vat, raised upon a bench about a foot and a 
 half from the ground, and which has a hole in its side near 
 the bottom, into which is put a spigot and fauset sufficiently 
 large, and over the end of which in the vat is fixed a 
 bundle of small clean sticks, or other convenient apparatus, 
 to prevent the malt from running out. Let the hot water 
 remain quiet in the vat till it has cooled down to about the 
 temperature of 175° or 180° of Fahrenheit’s thermometer ; 
 or, in the absence of this instrument, till the face can be 
 
 * See Ray's Cntalogus Planiarum, 1G77, articles Elceagnus 
 CorcLi and Lolium Album —“ Ivray Gailis quoniam inebriat.” 
 
382 
 
 ALE. 
 
 seen pretty distinctly in the water; then mix the malt with 
 the water gradually, stirring it with a mashing stick or 
 other convenient spatula. Preserve a few 7 handfuls cf the 
 dry malt to strew over the surface after it is mixed, in 
 order to prevent, as much as possible, the escape of the 
 heat ; the vat should be also covered with cloths., more 
 effectually to keep the mixture hot, which must remain un- 
 distuibed for three hours. The wort is then to be run out 
 by the spigot and fauset. As soon as it has done so, pour 
 on again upon the malt the same quantity of water, cooled 
 in a tub to the same degree of heat as before, and let it 
 remain w ith the malt half an hour or somewhat longer. It 
 will not be advisable now T to agitate the water with the malt 
 as doing- so will, most probably, wash out some of the ; 
 starch, which you do not w 7 ant. Let the wort run off a j 
 second time. 
 
 As you will now be enabled to judge how much more 
 wort wiil be necessary to fill your cask, add as much more 
 water, cooled down as before, as will be sufficient for the 
 purpose, letting the last portion stand a short time in the 
 vat, always remembering that it is advisable to have for a 
 cask of 36 gallons at least 10 or 15 gallons of wort more 
 than sufficient, to fill your cask, to allow 7 for w'aste and for 
 evaporation ; and keeping in mind also that the more water 
 is used the more effectually will the sugar be washed out of 
 the malt, and the stronger will the liquor become. 
 
 When the worts have been all run off, mix them to°'e- 
 ther, and put them into the copper, making it boil as soon 
 as possible. It will be necessary to know how many gallons 
 the copper holds, in order to judge of the evaporation : for the 
 overplus of water must be reduced to the number of gallons 
 which are wanted, allowing still a few 7 gallons for waste. 
 
 When the wort is reduced by boiling to nearly the proper 
 quantity, and not before, put in the two pounds of hops 
 and Jet them boil in the wort for about twenty minutes; 
 and it is most advisable during; their boiling- that the boiler 
 should be covered over, to prevent the escape of the aroma 
 of the hops. The boiling being completed, let the wort be 
 strained off into proper coolers. When it is cooled down to 
 65° or 70°, that is, rather below summer heat, mix one 
 quart of good yeast w 7 ith a few gallons of the wort first, 
 
 
STRONG BEER.---SMALL BEER. 
 
 383 
 
 : and afterwards put the whole together into a vat to ferment 
 o, for two or three days or more; or put it at once into the 
 Ik cask in which it is designed to be kept, and let it ferment 
 ,, there ; which last method is the most effectual to preserve 
 I all the strength of the liquor. 
 
 The necessary care must be taken to watch the fermen- 
 a tation in the cask, and fill it up occasionally with the su - 
 perfluous liquor. As soon as the cask will bear a bung in 
 t, it ought to be stopped down slightly at first, till the 
 owers of the disengaged gas be ascertained; or otherwise 
 he cask might burst. 
 
 Note, as we have said, that putting the ale into the 
 ask at once to ferment is the best way of retaining all the 
 , strength of the liquor, and it is the method which we have 
 . turselves invariably adopted ; but many persons prefer set¬ 
 ting the liquor to ferment in a vat previously to putting it 
 nto a cask ; we see no reason for this course, except that 
 there will be fewer faeces in the liquor ; and this is a small 
 compensation for the loss of strength which the liquor must 
 andergo in having so larg-e a surface exposed for three or 
 nore days to the air and the racking of it afterwards from 
 he vat and pouring it into the cask: this is not thought 
 sufficiently of by many persons. 
 
 j This ale, if it be brewed when the weather is mild, 
 
 stated above, will be lit for drinking in about two or 
 
 as 
 at 
 
 nost three months. But a larger quantity will necessarily 
 require more time ; a smaller somewhat less. 
 
 STRONG BEER is made with double the quantity of 
 alt and hops (directed for ale above) and the same quan¬ 
 tity of water, and the same processes of mashing, boiling, 
 and fermenting must be gone through. But it will take 
 it least double the time of the ale above to become fit for 
 drinking; indeed perhaps it ought to be kept nine months 
 to be at its best, or even longer than that. 
 
 Note, that some persons employ for a hogshead, (63 
 gallons,) of ale, Jive bushels of malt; and for the same 
 quantity of strong beer ten bushels of malt. 
 
 SMALL BEER may be made from the malt of either 
 of the preceding processes, immediately after the last wort 
 has been drawn oft’, by again employing water at the heat 
 before mentioned, and letting it remain for half an hour or 
 more, and drawing it off and boiling it with hops; perhaps 
 
384 
 
 PORTER. 
 
 five or six gallons may be made tolerably good from the ale- 
 malt, and double that quantity from the beer malt. Yeast 
 must be employed of course to ferment it. This is the 
 very common practice with the frugal housewife in the 
 country. But small or table beer may be made at once, 
 by mashing in the same way as directed for ale, using aless 
 quantity of malt and hops. It is however the practice of 
 many persons to use more hops in proportion as the malt is 
 diminished in quantity, under the impression, questionable 
 as we still believe it to be, that hops contribute to the pre¬ 
 servation of malt liquor, and more especially that which is 
 weak. 
 
 We need not describe the quantity of malt necessary to 
 brew good table beer, because, from what has been said, 
 the domestic brewer will readily judge for herself; but one 
 bushel and a half of malt and one pound of hops, for 36 
 gallons, will make a very good article ; many use a much 
 less quantity of malt than this. 
 
 Note that we have detailed above all the processes w r hich 
 are necessary for brewing good malt liquors ; as however 
 some persons may be desirous of learning the method of 
 brewing 
 
 PORTER, we will here set down w 7 hat knowledge we 
 have acquired upon the subject, premising that we do not 
 deem the very best porter that w 7 as ever made equal to ale 
 or beer obtained from good malt and hops alone : for, even 
 admitting, which we do not, that porter is sometimes made 
 from highly dried malt and from hops only, inasmuch as 
 such malt is in some degree altered, and in fact in part 
 decomposed, it never can form, be its taste what it may, 
 an article equally nutricious and stimulant with ale or beer lil 
 made with hops and malt not discoloured by heat. But 
 porter is not, we have many reasons for knowing, made in 
 so simple a manner: it is composed of many other ingre¬ 
 dients, as we are about to show. 
 
 Those who desire to learn the method of brewing porter 
 in the large way may consult our Family Cyclopedia, 
 article Brewing; but the following will serve for a cask of 
 eighteen gallons :—- 
 
 Take one bushel of highly dried malt; twelve ounces 
 each of liquorice root and Spanish juice ; twelve ounces 
 of essentia bina, made by boiling raw sugar in an iron 
 
BREWING—PORTER. 
 
 385 
 
 vessel till it become of a thick, syrupy consistence, and per¬ 
 fectly black and bitter, adding, towards the end of the 
 operation, boiling water, to make it of the consistence 
 of thick syrup when cold ; the same quantity of colour, 
 made with raw sugar, boiled till it obtains a middle state, 
 between bitter and sweet, and which imparts to porter the 
 fine mellow colour so much admired; twelve ounces of 
 hops ; one pound and a half of treacle ; and a small quan¬ 
 tity of capsicum and ginger. 
 
 Let the malt be mashed as directed for ale above ; and let 
 also the liquorice root be bruised and the hops be first boiled 
 In the liquor; after which, while hot , add the essentia 
 ibina, the colour, the treacle, the Spanish liquorice, and the 
 apsicum and ginger: after remaining for twenty or more 
 mutes, not boiling, strain it off into coolers, and ferment 
 n a similar manner to ale. 
 
 Note, that besides those ingredients it is said some per¬ 
 sons put in also the following to make porter: cocculus 
 ndicus, grains of paradise, carbonate of potash, sulphate 
 )f iron or green copperas, (this is added to make the porter 
 noth,) lime, linseed, alum, coriander seeds, cinnamon, and 
 uassia. A very pretty poisonous sort of compound, which 
 e, of course, cannot recommend. It is said too that pieces 
 f lean beef are used by the London brewers of porter; 
 jhese, if used, w T e presume, are employed as fining instead 
 if isinglass.* 
 
 FINING. In regard to the fining of malt liquor, when 
 nly malt and hops are used, we have never known any 
 ing necessary, if the brewdng and subsequent processes 
 ave been properly conducted; but some persons are, never- 
 eless, not contented without the addition of isinglass. 
 
 does, however, sometimes happen that malt liquor is 
 uddy; and as porter and such compound liquors often do 
 quire some addition to fine them, the article usually em- 
 oyed is isinglass dissolved in stale beer till the whole be- 
 omes of a thick gluey consistence; one pint of such solu- 
 on is commonly used for a barrel of porter; but two or 
 tore are sometimes necessary. 
 
 * See on this subject Mowbray’s Treatise on Domestic Poultry, 
 reiving, §c. 6th Edition ; page 305. 
 
 ■ 
 
386 PROPERTIES OF MALT LIQUORS—SPIRIT. 
 
 After what has been said we are unwilling to enlarge 
 further on the brewing of malt liquor, with the addition of 
 other ingredients, besides malt and hops ; those who desire 
 to obtain such information may consult our Family Cy¬ 
 clopaedia. We may, in conclusion on this important 
 section of our work, observe that all malt liquors are stimu¬ 
 lant and nutritive in proportion to the alcohol and extractive 
 matter which they contain. Small beer possesses few sti¬ 
 mulant properties, the chief is carbonic acid; when that 
 has escaped, it becomes vapid and dead. But we may easily 
 know from the experiments of Mr. Braude, the different 
 value of malt liquors by the following list: — 
 
 One hundred parts of Burton ale contain of 
 alcohol parts by measure • • • • 
 
 Edinburgh ale . 6,20 
 
 Dorchester ale . 5,56 
 
 Brown stout .. - 6,80 
 
 London porter, average. 4,20 
 
 Small beer. 1,28 
 
 The Nutricious and Wholesome Properties of 
 Malt Liquors for the labourer and others who take much 
 exercise in the open air cannot be disputed. But the stu¬ 
 dious, the sedentary, and the valetudinarian, unless under 
 very peculiar circumstances, must avoid them. They have 
 a tendency to produce in many persons, the inactive citizen 
 in particular, obesity; — a tumid and unpleasant distention 
 of the stomach and bowels, and, indeed, of the whole 
 body generally, that is, too often, the forerunner of many 
 diseases, of which dyspepsia is either the precursor or the 
 concomitant. 
 
 A great outcry has been raised against the use of ardent 
 spirits, (see page 239 on the use and abuse of food,) and, 
 undoubtedly, in their crude and concentrated state, they 
 are very often, not to say almost always, injurious; but 
 when taken in moderate doses, and considerably diluted 
 with water, they agree with the dyspeptic stomach much 
 better than malt liquor, or even strong wine. The writer 
 of this has, for years, discarded the use of malt liquors of 
 every kind, and has drunk, in their stead, diluted English 
 
ENGLISH GIN-SPRUCE-BEER. 
 
 387 
 
 gin,* with manifest advantages to his health ; and he has, 
 besides, recommended and enforced the same practice to 
 others, who have benefited by it. But, and here it should 
 be emphatically noted, that, in such case, nothing- except 
 water should be drunk with the food, either at dinner or 
 supper in particular. To drink intoxicating malt liquor 
 during a meal, and after it other stimulants, such as wine 
 or diluted spirits, is a practice replete with mischief, and 
 should be utterly avoided. If, however, inveterate habit 
 demand malt liquor with the food, the best is sprightly 
 small beer, which (see above) contains a little more than 
 one pint in a hundred of spirit. See the next article, and 
 also Cyder, Wines, and Distillation, forwards. 
 
 It is, we presume, chiefly from the pleasant sprightliness 
 of the carbonic acid gas which malt liquors, when new, so 
 plentifully supply, that succedaneums for those liquors have 
 been invented; such are those called Soda Water, and 
 Spruce, and Ginger Beer. Of the first we shall treat in 
 a subsequent section—of the last two here. 
 
 SPRUCE BEER is made by mixing thirteen pounds 
 of treacle with twenty gallons of warm water, eight ounces 
 of essence of spruce, and a quart of good yeast; after a 
 
 * We know one remarkable case in which English gin has been 
 productive of the best effects. It is that of a lady who laboured 
 under ascites or dropsy of the abdomen, as well as some other 
 serious complaints. She was attended by the late Dr. Blegbo- 
 rough, a physician in extensive practice; all his skill could not 
 subdue the disease, and he gave his patient up, believing that 
 death would soon close the scene. It was, however, suggested 
 to him by the present writer whether English gin, which had 
 been for years, when diluted, her ordinary beverage, might not be 
 again had recourse to? His reply was, “ You may try itbut 
 he had not the slightest expectation that it would be successful. 
 It was tried and was successful, the lady being wholly relieved 
 from her dropsy by the use of the gin; and is now alive, more 
 than sixty-seven years of age, and quite free from any dropsical 
 complaint: this occurred in 1824. The lady is now one of our 
 council of cooks! 
 
 This is not the place to discuss the modus operandi of gin upon 
 the human constitution ; but of this we are certain, that it increases 
 the secretion from the kidneys, at once beneficially and pleasantly, 
 chiefly, we presume, by the delicate dose of some terebinthine 
 matter which is added to flavour it; usually, we believe, oil of 
 turpentine. 
 
 s 2 
 
388 ESSENCE OF SPRUCE.— GINGER BEER. 
 
 slight fermentation in a vat or cask for a day or two, it 
 must be drawn off into stone bottles, be well corked, and 
 laid in a cool cellar, where the fermentation will be com¬ 
 pleted, and a considerable quantity of carbonic acid gas be 
 disengaged, so as to make it a lively, agreeable, and cool¬ 
 ing liquor, having, of course, the peculiar taste of the 
 spruce ; but it is generally preferred as a summer beverage. 
 
 Note, that spruce beer often acts upon the kidneys in 
 a similar manner to English gin ; and this we conclude it 
 does from the essence of spruce being of a turpentine nature. 
 
 Essence of Spruce is an extract of about the colour 
 and consistence of treacle; it is prepared from the fresh 
 branches of the Spruce fir, abies nigra, a native of North 
 America, w'hence the essence is usually imported into this 
 country. There are other species of the pine, called Spruce 
 fir; but, it is said, the essence of spruce is obtained chiefly 
 from the Black spruce, the abies nigra, as we have just men¬ 
 tioned. See our “ Family Cyclopaedia,” article Spruce. 
 
 GINGER BEER may be made precisely in the same way 
 as directed for spruce beer above, with the omission of the 
 spruce, and the addition of grated ginger at your pleasure. 
 If you desire to have a very pungent taste of the ginger, 
 you must add a pretty large quantity of it, one, even two 
 pounds will not, perhaps, be too much for twenty gallons. 
 It must be fermented, bottled, and treated in all other 
 respects as spruce beer; but when the ginger beer is 
 bottled, it will be necessary to strain it through a cloth or 
 hair sieve ; or a funnel may be so contrived with a cloth as 
 to constitute a strainer. See what is said in page 402, 
 concerning ginger. 
 
 Note, that although we have set down these directions 
 for twenty gallons, one fourth of the quantity may be 
 taken or even less, diminishing proportionately all the in¬ 
 gredients ; and note, besides, that if you desire a more 
 elegant spruce or ginger beer, you may employ good raw 
 or even lump sugar instead of treacle. 
 
 Both spruce and ginger beer are wholesome and agreeable 
 liquors, provided the treacle or sugar which is employed be 
 decomposed before it is'drunk. While there is any sweetness 
 in them, they will be found to disagree with many stomachs. 
 
 And note, lastly, concerning such liquors, that you may 
 impart any other flavour to them which you may prefer; 
 
CYDER AND PERRY. 
 
 389 
 
 ; namely, that of the grated outside peel of the orange or 
 the lemon; nay, you may put even hops to flavour them. 
 And those who are fond of the bitter of chamomile flowers* 
 will find them quite as agreeable as the hop. The wild 
 flowers which may be gathered on Blackheath and many 
 other places in this country, are the best for this purpose; 
 they should be employed in a dried state. 
 
 To CORRECT THE HARDNESS OR ACIDITY OF MALT 
 
 liquors it has now become very common to mix a small 
 quantity of carbonate of potashf with them w T hen they are 
 brought to the table ; the potash uniting with the stronger 
 acid in the beer, the carbonic acid is set free, and the 
 liquor is thus rendered more frisky and wholesome. It is, 
 nevertheless, a troublesome process to be undertaken at the 
 time of dinner in particular ; our own plan of drinking 
 pure water is much to be preferred. 
 
 CYDER and PERRY are the native wines of this 
 country. The mode of making both are so similar that it 
 is not necessary we should devote a separate article to each. 
 We may premise, however, in regard to cyder, that 
 genuine cyder either of the West of England or of Here¬ 
 fordshire is rarely, if ever, to be obtained in London. 
 What is obtained in the metropolis is a sweet, frisky liquor, 
 that has very little spirit in it; and it is rather remarkable, 
 but nevertheless true, that a good, strong, and genuine 
 cyder drunk in the place where it is made, is not often re¬ 
 lished by the citizen ; it is to him too rough and sharp. 
 
 The best apples for cyder are those which ripen about 
 or rather after Michaelmas ; it is true, you may make 
 cyder from codlings and stubhords, both of which ripen 
 early, the last a very pleasant apple for the table ; but the 
 cyder from both, although agreeably tasted, is not strong, 
 and will, therefore, not keep long. The g-oodness of the 
 juice of the apple for cyder may be determined with 
 
 * Antheinis nobilis, a perennial plant. The cultivated or double 
 chamomile flower is that usually employed in medicine ; but the 
 wild flowers are the strongest. A strong infusion of chamomile 
 flowers made by pouring boiling w'ater upon them, with the addition 
 of ginger or cloves, in a covered vessel, is excellent in many dys¬ 
 peptic complaints. One or even two ounces may be taken for a 
 dose twice or thrice a day. See forwards, Medicinal Cookery. 
 t See carbonate of potash, page 368, note. 
 
390 
 
 CYDER. 
 
 tolerable exactness : take one pint wine measure as soon as 
 it is expressed from the ripe fruit and weigh it. That which 
 weighs the heaviest, i. e. which has most sugar in it, will 
 make the strongest cyder. A wine pint of the juice to 
 make good strong cyder ought to weigh from seventeen 
 ounces to seventeen ounces and a half avoirdupoise. If it 
 does not weigh seventeen ounces, the cyder, we may be 
 sure, will be poor and weak. 
 
 After what has been said under our articles Baking and 
 Brewing concerning fermentation and the formation 
 of spirit, little needs to be here added, but this, that 
 while it is necessary to add yeast to the wort obtained from 
 malt in order to excite a proper and expeditious fermenta¬ 
 tion, the expressed juices of both the apple and the pear 
 will go almost immediately after it is expressed, without 
 any addition of yeast or other fermenting materials, in 
 ordinary temperatures, into the vinous fermentation. This 
 arises from the fact, that with the juice is also expressed a 
 small portion of gluten, on which the vinous fermentation 
 appears to depend for its activity, and the due completion 
 of the process for the formation of the spirit or alcohol, 
 whence the strength of malt liquors, as well as that of 
 cyder, perry, and wines, is derived; the flavour of all 
 these being from another source, viz. either from some es¬ 
 sential oil, or from the extractive or other matter which 
 the respective liquors contain. 
 
 The great harvest for apples is in the month of October. 
 Of the kind of apples most proper for making cyder, there is 
 considerable difference of opinion ; but, as we have said, that 
 apple whose juice weighs as above, may be safely chosen ; 
 most cyder-makers prefer a mixture of many sorts of apples 
 to that of using only one kind. Whatever kinds are used, 
 it is necessary that they should be thoroughly ripe before 
 the juice is expressed from them ; and although some ripen 
 on the trees, many require to be kept for two or even more 
 weeks before they will be fit to be ground up for cyder. 
 Indeed, apples, although quite ripe when shaken off the 
 tree, will make the best and strongest cyder if kept for 
 some time in heaps, in dry weather, in the open air; or 
 in wet, spread over a dry wooden floor where there is 
 plenty of circulation of the air; the criterion for keeping 
 them may be their beginning slightly to decay ; but they 
 
CYDER. 
 
 391 
 
 must not be rotten , as some persons have pretended. The 
 reason for keeping them thus long is, that a considerable 
 portion of the water which they contain will escape, and 
 the juice by such means will become more heavy and the 
 cyder stronger. Whereas, when they are ground up the 
 moment they are obtained from the trees, the cyder from them 
 will be generally thin and poor. It should also be re¬ 
 membered that the taste of an apple is no criterion of its 
 quality for cyder; that one which is extremely pleasant to 
 eat, the stubbord for instance, may make a very inferior 
 
 3 cyder compared to another whose taste is bitter, acid, and 
 even offensive: the Bitter Jersey makes good cyder, but 
 it has a very disagreeable taste. 
 
 It is not our design in this article to describe the mill and 
 press used for obtaining cyder; for these recourse may be 
 had to our Family Cyclopaedia article Cyder; or to 
 an article written by the author of the present work, and 
 inserted in Mowbray’s work on Poultry, mentioned in 
 a preceding page. But the mill and press being at hand 
 and the pommage or pummace being ready for pressing, it 
 is either put into hair bags and pressed ; or good clean and 
 sweet wheat straw is employed, with which it is made into 
 a cheese with alternate layers of the pommage till it be- 
 ; comes as large and as high as the bed of the press will 
 properly admit. It is then pressed gradually down; and, 
 if a cheese, its outside is shorn off once or more, the 
 shearing placed on the top, and again the whole is pressed 
 down very tight. The cyder being thus obtained should be 
 immediately strained and put into the cask in which it is 
 designed to be kept. The cask should be full or within an 
 inch or two, so that when the fermentation takes place the 
 feculent matter floating at the top may flow out at the bung- 
 hole, which should be left quite open for some days. As 
 soon as the fermentation will permit a bung in the hole, it 
 should be put in slightly at first, and after a few T weeks 
 more tightly ; nor should the liquor be at all disturbed till 
 it is wanted to be drunk : for if all these directions be fol¬ 
 lowed, the best cyder will be obtained by this very simple 
 process. What is called the keeving of cyder we do not 
 approve for the reasons assigned under breioing , page 383. 
 
 It is usual after the cyder is expressed to obtain from the 
 pommage what is called a water cyder; that is, to a cheese 
 
392 
 
 CYDER. 
 
 which has produced about a hogshead (63 gallons) of cyder, 
 a pail full (about six or eight gallons) of water is added by 
 making holes in the cheese, shearing it again on the outside, 
 and letting the water remain in it soaking for a night, and then 
 expressing the diluted juice as before. This juice is to be 
 treated in a similar way to the pure juice itself. It makes 
 a pleasant table beverage for a family if drunk soon, but it 
 will not keep long. 
 
 We may just mention that sugar, being added to good 
 cyder immediately after it is expressed, improves its strength 
 but not its taste; that four ounces or more of sugar added 
 to each gallon of a poor cyder (that is, one which weighs 
 less than seventeen ounces to the pint) when it is expressed, 
 not afterwards, will improve it. 
 
 Of good cyder, as a summer beverage for persons whose 
 occupations are in the open air, too much can scarcely be 
 said in its praise; its acid quenches thirst much better 
 than malt liquor. It has been said that it sometimes pro¬ 
 duces colic, but prepared in wooden vessels ( leaden ones 
 were formerly sometimes employed) we have never known 
 it to be thus injurious. In the secondary fever after the 
 measles in children we have seen it highly beneficial. 
 
 Various have been the attempts to improve upon the simple 
 process of making cyder above given. As they have for 
 the most part been adopted on erroneous principles, they 
 have, of course, failed. One in particular is uncommonly 
 silly, namely, that of preventing the vinous fermentation by 
 racking the liquor, by not reflecting or not knowing that no 
 cyder can be strong which has not fermented; and not know¬ 
 ing likewise that racking any fermented liquor must necessa¬ 
 rily tend to dissipate some of the spirit already formed; that, 
 in a word, a sweet and a strong cyder are incompatible 
 with this native wine; and that, sooner or later, the sweetness 
 will be gone; in other words, the sugar in the cyder will 
 be decomposed. No wonder, therefore, if the sweet cyder 
 sold in London has been obtained by racking , that it is so 
 poor and spiritless , notwithstanding it is so frisky. 
 
 Although, as we have said, the process of making perry 
 is essentially the same as that for apples, yet in regard to 
 the keeping of pears after they are taken from the trees, 
 more circumspection is necessary than for apples: for many 
 sorts of pears become rotten within while they show a fair 
 
PERRY. 
 
 393 
 
 outside, and hence such pears are not likely to produce a 
 good liquor; a liquor which has been likened to champagne. 
 As the sprightliness of that, as well as of cyder and perry, 
 depends upon the large quantity of carbonic acid gas which 
 they all contain, exposing any of those liquors to the atmos¬ 
 phere, either by racking or otherwise, must tend to dissipate 
 that gas on which, particularly in champagne and perry, their 
 agreeableness is chiefly founded. Hence we may learn, too, 
 
 , the necessity of keeping all such fermented liquors in a cool 
 place. 
 
 According to Mr. Brande, the proportion per cent, of 
 | spirit or alcohol is in 
 
 Champagne.12,61 
 
 Cyder, highest average, 9,87 
 
 -lowest do. • • • • 5,21 
 
 Perry.7,26 
 
 For further information concerning cyder and apples, 
 our Family* Cyclopaedia may be consulted. But we 
 may, nevertheless, add here, concerning the culture of the 
 apple, that John Philips in his celebrated poem entitled 
 Cyder, describes the soil &c. best adapted to apple-trees. 
 
 1 We must not forget, however, that his precepts are written 
 chiefly, if not entirely, for the climate, soii, and seasons 
 of Herefordshire ; and that, although those precepts are 
 good w r hen applied to some cyder districts, yet to others 
 ; they are not always applicable. In the level districts of 
 Somersetshire, for example, the ivest wind is not commonly 
 a desirable visitant, particularly when an orchard is a few 
 miles distant from the sea; that wind being often highly 
 impregnated with saline particles, which are peculiarly in¬ 
 jurious to vegetation; and, therefore, orchards so situated 
 ought, if possible, to be sheltered by high trees planted on 
 their borders so as to obstruct the currents of such air, 
 always preventing, however, such trees from extending 
 their branches over the apple trees. Of the mischievous 
 tendency of north, north-east, and east tvinds to orchards 
 generally, there can be no doubt, and therefore similar 
 shelter by trees, as in the former case, is always desirable. 
 See further on this subject Mowbray, as quoted above, 
 page 351. Rich and sheltered bottoms with a good depth 
 of dark soil are beyond question best for apple orchards. 
 
 s 3 
 
394 
 
 WINES. 
 
 WINES. 
 
 Who is he that hath not felt 
 The power of sparkling wine? 
 
 Who is he that will deny 
 It sometimes is divine ? 
 
 Who is he that hath not seen 
 From wine arise much evil ? 
 
 Who is he that will deny 
 It sometimes is the devil ? 
 
 Drink, then, only sober draughts 
 Of good and sparkling wine ; 
 
 And it shall ever be to you 
 A nectar all divine. 
 
 General Observations. As a preliminary to the 
 present section, the reader will be good enough to refer to 
 what is said under Barley in page 208, and again to 
 page 244 in the text, as well as the note, concerning Wine; 
 in page 265 to the general observations on pies ; to the 
 observations on the vinous fermentation in page 332, and 
 to all the preceding as well as subsequent sections of this 
 chapter, and to that particularly on Cyder and Perry. 
 
 Wine, it needs scarcely to be observed, is the fermented 
 juice of the grape. The best wines to be obtained in this 
 country are produced in the south of Europe, in the island 
 of Madeira, and at the Cape of Good Hope ; they are con¬ 
 sequently all foreign articles ; and every one of them which 
 contains much alcohol, that constitutes their strength , is 
 produced in warmer climates than any in Great Britain, 
 and, therefore, much more favourable to the perfect ripen¬ 
 ing of the grape, and also to the more perfect fermen¬ 
 tation of the juice after it is expressed. He, therefore, 
 who desires the best wine, how mortifying soever it may 
 be to an Englishman’s pride and pocket, must obtain it 
 from warmer climates than his own. Many persons, it is 
 true, attempt the making of wine from not only grapes 
 ripened in this country, but also from many other fruits ; 
 and sometimes, under very favourable circumstances, a to¬ 
 lerable wine is produced; but, generally speaking, all the 
 wines made in this country are poor succedaneums for port, 
 sherry, or Madeira. 
 
WINES—THE VINE. 395 
 
 As, however, there are, and perhaps always will be, per¬ 
 sons in Great Britain who desire to make their own wines, 
 we shall here endeavour to lay down a few practical direc¬ 
 tions for their guidance, premising’ that when it becomes 
 necessary to add sugar to the juice of any fruit in order 
 to make even a drinkable wine, this addition is itself an 
 all-convincing proof that the juice, of even the grape, here 
 does not naturally contain sufficient sugar (as it does in the 
 wine countries of the south of Europe, Madeira, and the 
 Cape of Good Hope, as well as some other warm climates,) 
 to constitute, when fermented, a good wine; and hence the 
 flavour of the wine, if it possess any, is thus considerably 
 diluted or altered ; and more especially will this be the case, 
 if water in addition to the sugar be mixed with the juice. 
 
 The principal substances in grape-juice, besides, of course, 
 a considerable portion of water, are sugar, gum , gluten, 
 and supertartrate of potash ; this last article is usually 
 called Tartar, and when it is purified, it constitutes the 
 cream of tartar of the shops. In the wine countries the 
 juice of the ripe grape is called must, and being placed in 
 vats or casks, spontaneously undergoes, as cyder does in 
 this country, the vinous fermentation, by which it becomes 
 a strong and intoxicating liquor in consequence of the 
 alcohol or spirit which is formed in it during the process. 
 The tartar adheres to the sides and bottom of the casks, and 
 is either reddish or whitish, according to the colour of the 
 grapes.* 
 
 * We have shortly described the Corinth raisin, or currant and 
 other raisins, in page 253 ; we shall here complete our notice of 
 the grape, which is the fruit of the vitis vinifera, or vine, (whence 
 the almost innumerable varieties of grapes are said to be derived,) 
 originally a native of Persia, but now spread over all the warmer 
 parts of Europe, into the western portion of which it is stated to 
 have been introduced in the year 280 of the Christian era, under 
 the sanction of Probus, the Roman emperor. It was, however, 
 cultivated in many parts of Asia, as well as in Greece and Italy, 
 long before the Christian era, as the Scriptures, as well as other 
 histories, attest. Among the Romans, indeed, the use of wine 
 was so common, and its effects so well known, that a pro¬ 
 verb, in vino veritas, in wine truth, that is, a drunken man tells 
 the truth, was current amongst them. Their poets, too, often 
 sang the praises of wine : Horace has his vinique fontem, in an 
 ode expressly addressed to Bacchus; while Virgil has in his se¬ 
 cond Georgia taught us 
 
 “ How to raise on elms the teeming vine.” 
 
396 
 
 WINES—THE VINE. 
 
 The ingredients necessary for converting the juice of 
 fruits into wine are, water, contained in the juice itself, 
 sugar, tartar, and vegetable mucilage, or gluten, to which 
 must be added a proper temperature, so that the process 
 of fermentation may be gone through, without which no 
 good wine can be made ; the degree necessary is about that 
 usually called summer-heat in this country, namely, 76° 
 of Fahrenheit’s thermometer ; below r 60° is too cold, and 
 above 80° will be too hot. The presence of tartar appears 
 to be necessary to the production of good wine; and, there¬ 
 fore it has been suggested that its addition to the juices 
 of our native fruits will be advantageous. But we, never- 
 
 See the conclusion of this article for an ode written by Anacreon 
 the Greek poet, on the propriety of drinking with moderation. See 
 also page 244, the note on virgin's milk, the wine so called, or 
 virginis lac. 
 
 The vine has also been found growing wild in America. It is 
 also said that vineyards existed in several parts of this country 
 some centuries ago; but we suspect, nevertheless, that the wine 
 produced from them could not have been good. It is said that 
 the best climates for the grape lie between the thirtieth and fifty- 
 first degree of latitude ; and, hence, it is not probable that any part 
 of this country, unless very peculiarly situated, can be favourable 
 to the production of grapes for wine ; in other words, it will not 
 ripen them sufficiently without art. The vine is usually propa¬ 
 gated by cuttings or layers; new varieties by seed. It is in this 
 country usually trained against a wall ; or in a hot or green-house, 
 in which places the grapes ripen early, and are very fine. The 
 acknowledged varieties, both of the white and black grape, are 
 exceedingly numerous ; Loudon names fifty-six. The vine attains, 
 it is said, to as great an age as the oak ; Pliny mentions a vine 
 which had existed six hundred years. In Italy there are vine¬ 
 yards which have been in a flourishing state for more than three 
 centuries ; and it is said, that one only a hundred years old is 
 considered young. Several v ines in this country are much more 
 than one hundred years old; one of the largest is at Hampton 
 Court, the produce of w hich has sometimes been 2,200 bunches, 
 averaging in weight one pound each. It is said, however, that 
 bunches have been grown of the Syrian grape, in Syria, that 
 weighed forty pounds ; and that some bunches of the same grape 
 in England have weighed from ten to nineteen pounds; but these 
 are extraordinary productions. 
 
 Whatever might be the utility of our domestic grape for wine, 
 there can be no doubt, as it is ordinarily found ripe in this country, 
 that it is a wholesome as well as agreeable fruit when eaten in 
 moderate quantity, but excess in this, as in every other fruit, must 
 be avoided: the skins as well as seed should both be rejected. 
 The unripe grape makes a pleasant tart. 
 
WINES. 
 
 397 
 
 theless, doubt this. Sugar is the fundamental article in 
 the fabrication of all wines, and to this, and to this alone, 
 we must look for their strength; it is that whence only 
 their spirit is obtained. 
 
 The natural leaven of fruits of every kind appears to be 
 gluten ; and hence the juice of the apple, the pear, and the 
 grape, soon after it is expressed, goes spontaneously into the 
 vinous fermentation. But, as we have seen under Brew¬ 
 ing, where we have an artificial liquor, and by adding 
 sugar to the juice of fruit it becomes artificial, it is necessary 
 to add yeast to it, in order that the fermentation should be 
 more effectually excited, and thus the added sugar be more 
 completely decomposed.* 
 
 It too often, however, happens that all English wines, 
 after the active fermentation has ceased, retain a consi¬ 
 derable portion of sweetness; this, though agreeable to 
 many persons, is one of the worst of all symptoms in wines 
 next to that of their being sour: for, no sooner do such 
 ■wines enter the stomach than the process of fermentation 
 (begins, and produces the ordinary and oppressive symptoms 
 attendant on dyspepsia; and hence the reason why elder 
 wine, raisin wine , &c. &c. are improper for every one 
 ■whose stomach has the least tendency to acidity and in¬ 
 digestion. 
 
 Such wines ought, after the active fermentation is over, 
 to be kept in a place sufficiently warm to continue it, so 
 that the remaining sugar may be decomposed, and the 
 (sweetness thus be gradually removed. But considerable 
 caution is here necessary; for if the wine be bottled in its 
 sweet state, and the temperature be much raised, the dis¬ 
 engagement of the carbonic acid gas might be so copious 
 that the bottles may burst. It will be better therefore not 
 to bottle very sweet wine, but to let it remain in the cask, 
 placed in a proper temperature, as above stated, tiil much 
 of the sweetness is gone off. See what is said on Wine 
 in our Family Cyclopaedia. The necessity of keeping 
 
 * Treacle, containing a mucilaginous matter besides sugar, 
 more readily enters into the vinous fermentation than purified 
 sugar, although its coarseness of taste renders it unfit for elegant 
 wines. When, therefore, refined sugars are employed in the 
 making of wine, a larger quantity of 3 east is necessary than when 
 we employ treacle. 
 
WINES. 
 
 398 
 
 wine at a proper temperature till it is completely fermented, 
 constitutes one of the chief difficulties in the making of 
 wines in this country, and is perhaps the chief if not the 
 only reason why home-made wines are rarely if ever good, 
 when compared with foreign wines. 
 
 It should be noted, too, that wines, imperfectly fermented 
 in the autumn, remain in the winter temperature of this 
 country quiescent, and, on the return of spring, the fer¬ 
 mentation begins again. On bottling the wine at this time 
 a brisk wine may be obtained. At such second fermenta¬ 
 tion flavouring matters may be advantageously added, and 
 spirits, if ever allowable, maybe then introduced; but it 
 is the quality of spirits, of whatever kind, to check fer¬ 
 mentation ; and, therefore, if a wine need spirit, it is best 
 to be added just before, or at the time at which, the fer¬ 
 mentation is completed. This is altogether a nice point 
 and requires careful attention. 
 
 It should be also noted, that, although a certain elevation 
 of temperature is necessary to the complete fermentation of 
 wine, after the fermentation is completed the sooner the 
 wine is placed in a lower temperature and below 60° the 
 better, as then no possible advantage can be derived to it 
 from a high temperature. In whatever temperature wine 
 be kept, it ought to be, if possible, uniform ; a cool cellar, 
 or a bin in such cellar, is the best. 
 
 The methods of making wines from unripe grapes and 
 other fruit are described in Dr. M acculloch’s celebrated 
 treatise on the art of making wine , and the substance of 
 those methods will be found in our Family Cyclop.ldia 
 article wine ; but, as we do not perceive the utility of such 
 wines, we forbear to repeat them here : for they never can 
 be made into good wine without a large addition of sugar, 
 and are, besides, not such wines as we can cordially recom¬ 
 mend. The curious in these matters will, of course, refer 
 to the works mentioned should they desire further informa¬ 
 tion concerning them. 
 
 WINE FROM RIPE GRAPES. The g’rapes being 
 freed from the stalks, well bruised, and the juice carefully 
 expressed, put to every gallon of it one pound of sugar at 
 least; if the juice do not possess considerable sweetness, as 
 much as two pounds of sugar may be necessary for each 
 gallon. Set the liquor by in a place at which the ternpe- 
 
WINES—GOOSEBERRY-WINE. 399 
 
 rature is about 60° or more; when the fermentation begins, 
 which it will in a day or two, the cask in which it is de¬ 
 signed to be put must be filled with the liquor, so that, as 
 the fermentation proceeds, the scum may be thrown out. 
 A portion of the liquor must be reserved to fill up the cask 
 to the bung-hole from time to time as the liquor diminishes. 
 When the fermentation declines, the bung must be driven 
 in and a small hole stopped with a peg be made in the cask 
 in order to let out occasionally the superfluous carbonic acid 
 which will be, possibly, generated. When the danger from 
 excessive expansion is over, the peg should be driven in 
 tight. The wine may remain in this state through the 
 winter; or it may be, if sufficiently fermented, decanted 
 from the lees in December; or, if not, it may be shaken 
 up with the lees to complete its fermentation. It may be 
 bottled in March; and note , that all bottling as well as 
 other shifting of wine should, if possible, be performed in 
 clear and cold weather. 
 
 Note, that no yeast is ordered in the above form (which 
 is essentially Dr. Macculloch’s) for grape wine; and 
 provided the temperature mentioned, namely, about 60°, 
 can be preserved throughout the process, it is probable that 
 no yeast may be necessary; but if, from the first, the fer¬ 
 mentation be so languid as to be scarcely perceptible, a 
 little good yeast may be added with perhaps advantage. 
 And note, also, that no water is required for the reasons 
 stated in our general observations: the juice of grapes 
 ripened in this country require sugar; they possess too 
 much water and acid when compared with their proportion 
 of sugar : water should not therefore be added to it. 
 
 A WINE FROM RIPE GOOSEBERRIES, CUR¬ 
 RANTS, or RASPBERRIES. The juice of these fruits, 
 after it is expressed, must be treated in precisely the same 
 way as is directed for ripe grapes; but the sugar must be in 
 larger quantity. 
 
 RAISIN WINE. To one gallon of water put seven 
 pounds of raisins picked clean from the stalks. Stir them 
 three or four times a day for a month; then bruise them 
 and press the liquor off and put into it a table-spoonful of 
 yeast. If fine in five months, it may be bottled. It must, 
 of course, be kept during its fermentation in a proper degree 
 
400 
 
 RAISIN — ELDER-WINE. 
 
 of heat, and otherwise treated similarly to grape wine 
 above. 
 
 Note, that from these simple directions for making wine, 
 a wine from the juice of any other fruit may be easily made. 
 In the fermentation of wine it should be observed that a 
 portion or the whole of the leaven or gluten is separated in 
 two forms, one that of yeast which floats on the surface of 
 the liquor, and the other lees found at the bottom. If 
 certain proportions of sugar and leaven, whether natural or 
 artificial, be employed, the result will be a vinous liquor, 
 not tasting of sugar and very little of acid ; but if the 
 leaven be deficient, the wine will contain undecomposed 
 sugar, and be, of course, sweet and imperfectly fermented. 
 Such, in fact, are almost all of our domestic or home-made 
 wines. To remedy in part this defect, the yeast of beer is 
 added; but it communicates a flavour that is more or less 
 disagreeable, and from which w T ine should be free. There¬ 
 fore yeast should be never employed in making wine if it 
 can be avoided. 
 
 If after some time the wine should not be sufficiently 
 fermented, the head which rises should be broken and 
 mixed with the fermenting liquor, or be otherwise agitated 
 repeatedly till the desired effect is produced. 
 
 ELDER WINE. This is made in a variety of ways; 
 the following is perhaps as good as any. Take ripe elder 
 berries and scald them in a stev/pan or other convenient 
 vessel; bruise them as much as possible and press out the 
 juice, to every quart of which put a pound of moist sugar, 
 which when dissolved in the juice must be boiled and the 
 skum taken off. When it is nearly cold, put to it a toast 
 of bread well soaked in yeast. Let it ferment two or three 
 days, and then put it into the cask in wflfich you design to 
 keep it. In six months it will be, most probably, if kept 
 in a tolerably w'arm temperature, fit for being bottled. 
 
 Note , that some put water to the juice ; in such case 
 more sugar must be employed ; and some add ginger and 
 other spices to this wine. But we consider the best elder 
 wine a very indifferent article. It is always, as we find it, 
 too sweet, consequently incompletely fermented, and suits 
 only the most robust stomachs. 
 
 FRONTINIAC WINE. To ten gallons of the above 
 

 SHERRY—MA D EI RA. 
 
 401 
 
 must or expressed liquor from the raisins, obtained as 
 mentioned above under Raisin' Wine, add half a bushel 
 of elder flowers freed from the green stalks. 
 
 CLARY WINE. To ten gallons of the same must add 
 half a bushel of clary flowers. 
 
 SHERRY WINE. To ten gallons of the same must 
 add one pound of blanched almonds made into an emulsion : 
 that is, beaten into a smooth paste with a little sugar and 
 i water. 
 
 PORT WINE. To ten gallons of the same must, add 
 »ix pounds of the juice or pulp of black cherries obtained 
 by bruizing and pressing ; and two quarts of the juice of 
 does obtained by boiling or rather stewing them in some of 
 he wine in a close vessel for an hour, and then pressing the 
 uice off. 
 
 ORANGE WINE or LEMON WINE may be made 
 )y adding to the same a considerable quantity of the 
 mtside j)eel of those fruits grated first and then beaten 
 nto a pulp with a little sugar. But put none of the juice 
 if these fruits to your vrine. The acid is not wanted. 
 Dr, instead of the must, sugar and water may be employed 
 vith the orange and lemon-peel. See the next article. 
 
 MADEIRA WINE. To every gallon of water put 
 hree pounds of sugar; boil and skim it well; put it into 
 , tub for a day or two, with good yeast in the proportion 
 f two or more ounces to every gallon; to every five gallons 
 >ut one gallon of strong ale wort just fit to be tunned. Put 
 he whole into a cask ; and when the fermentation is over, 
 ne it with isinglass. The process will require at least six 
 aonths : lastly, add to the wine one quart of brandy. 
 
 GINGER WINE may be made with sugar and water, 
 ,s in the directions for M adeira wine ; it must be also fer- 
 aented and fined in the same manner, omitting the ale 
 ’ort. But instead of adding the ginger sliced to the 
 quor, or otherwise by an infusion of boiling water upon 
 be sliced root; to obtain its virtues, a more elegant method 
 lay be adopted by making a strong tincture of ginger 
 ith proof spirit (see page 189) or with brandy in the pro- 
 ortion of four or more ounces of the bruised root to every 
 int, shaking the mixture every day for a fortnight, and 
 ben pressing off and filtering the tincture. This to be 
 
 
GINGER-WINE—MEAD. 
 
 402 
 
 added to the wine at the same time that the isinglass is 
 added to it, but not before. 
 
 Note, that some direct the ginger to be boiled for an 
 hour in water to obtain its virtues ; but this is a bad practice, 
 as ginger by boiling becomes mucilaginous. Its virtues 
 are best obtained by infusion, not decoction ; or, as we 
 have directed, in a more elegant way, as an essence or 
 tincture. 
 
 MEAD is a wine made with honey dissolved in water 
 instead of sugar. Three pounds of honey are generally 
 put to one gallon of water, which is boiled and skimmed as 
 directed for Madeira wine above ; it is then fermented with 
 yeast. Some will add various condiments to it, such as 
 cinnamon, cloves, ginger, rosemary, &c. But the simples! 
 and perhaps the best is lemon peel. Some who desire 
 make this liquor very strong and to keep a long time, pul 
 four pounds of honey to each gallon of water. 
 
 Note, that the same objections may be made to sweei 
 mead as to sweet wine ; such will generally disagree with 
 the dyspeptic stomach. 
 
 Note, that although it is very usual to employ isinglasi 
 to render wine clear, in general, if it be properly fer¬ 
 mented and strong, it becomes clear without any additioi 
 whatever. 
 
 CONCLUDING OBSERVATIONS on wine. W< 
 have thus given a few forms for imitating foreign wines 
 but the reader must not conclude that we consider even th< 
 best of them by any means equal to those produced ii 
 more genial climates than our own. Even Madeira, thi 
 produce of the island of that name, is materially improve* 
 by a voyage in the hold of a ship to the West Indies , am 4 
 it is made better still by one to the East Indies, a proo 
 this that a long continuance of wine not completely fer 
 mented in a warm temperature, contributes to the mor 
 perfect decomposition of the sugar, and consequently to th 
 perfection of the wine. We have known, even in thi 
 country, Madeira materially improved in quality by bein: 
 kept for some time in a warm closet. 
 
 Wines are distinguished in commerce into sweet wines 
 sparkling, or effervescing wines; dry and light; an 
 dry and strong. The vino cotto of Italy, Frontignac 
 

 SPIRIT IN WINES. 403 
 
 of the wines of Canary and Malmsey, belong to the 
 sweet class, and have, of course, sugar more or less in 
 them still undecomposed. Champagne belongs to the 
 iffervescing wines, which is caused by a large quantity of 
 :arbonic acid. Dry and light ivines are such as claret; 
 his wine Dr. Paris prefers to even port. Dry and strong 
 vines are such as madeira, port , and sherry , and are 
 hose which in general contain the greatest proportion of 
 spirit; we consider these last better and more wholesome 
 stimulants when taken in moderate quantities than any of 
 he light wines. The following is, according to Mr. 
 Brande, the proportion per cent of alcohol contained in 
 he wines mentioned, 
 i 
 
 Port, highest.25.83 
 
 ! -, lowest . 19.00 
 
 Madeira, highest .... 24.42 
 
 -lowest.19.24 
 
 Red Madeira, average 20.35 
 
 Cape Madeira, .22.94 
 
 Claret, average. 15.10 
 
 Burgundy, average .. 14.45 
 Hock, average .12.08 
 
 Sherry, average. 
 
 19.17 
 
 Lachryma Christi .... 
 
 19.70 
 
 Constantia. 
 
 19.75 
 
 Champagne, average.. 
 
 12.61 
 
 Raisin wine, average.. 
 
 25.12 
 
 Gi'ape wine. 
 
 18.11 
 
 Currant wine. 
 
 20.55 
 
 Gooseberry wine .... 
 
 11.84 
 
 Elder wine. 
 
 8.79 
 
 Concerning these wines this fact must be noted, that 
 dthough, generally , wines are good in proportion to the 
 [uantity of alcohol which they contain; yet, if a wine be 
 trong, i. e. if it contain a large quantity of alcohol, and 
 is at the same time sweet , it is very often unfitted to enter 
 he human stomach. This is particularly the fact in regard 
 (O raisin wines made in this country ; and also in those 
 tailed cape Madeira, many of ■which, although according 
 o Mr. Brande very strong wines, disagree frequently 
 vith the stomach : but latterly, we believe that the quality 
 f Cape wine has been much improved. There are un- 
 uestionably in some wines, besides the spirit and the 
 ugar, other ingredients which are beneficial or injurious 
 o the digestive functions. Tannin is one of these, and 
 tence it is probable that port wine is beneficial to many 
 •ersons in consequence of its containing a considerable 
 uantity of that ingredient as -well as of spirit. See Tannin , 
 tage ‘200. 
 
 Concerning the colour of wine, it should be observed 
 
404 
 
 A HARD DRINKER. 
 
 that the juice of all kinds of grapes yields a wine more o 
 less yellowish, or, as it is usually called, a white wine 
 that the red colour imparted to wine is either derived froir 
 the husks of the black grape being fermented with tin 
 wine; or the colour is imparted to it by some foreigr 
 colouring material. Dr. Paris prefers the white to th< 
 red wines, because they are less loaded with extractive am 
 astring-ent matter; port wine is, nevertheless, an excellen 
 vinous stimulant for many stomachs. 
 
 EXCESS IN THE DRINKING OF WINE will b( 
 more strikingly seen by a simple statement of facts. Ac¬ 
 cording to Mr. Braude’s table, the average proportion oi 
 alcohol in port wine is nearly 23 per cent ; some, we see 
 is above 25 pier cent, or one-fourth of its bulk. Nov 
 be it well observed, alcohol or pure spirit is, when com¬ 
 pared with good brandy , as 100 to 53.39, so that it i. 
 nearly double the strength of this last article.. When 
 therefore, v T e hear of persons who sometimes drink afte: 
 dinner three bottles, or even more, of wine which usually 
 contain about one pint and a half by measure each; anc 
 which four pints and a half contain, at least, one pirn 
 of pure alcohol, or w T hat is equal in strength to about one 
 quart of brandy, need we wonder at the misery both o 
 mind and body under which, sooner or later, such hare 
 drinkers labour ? * 
 
 * It may be instructive here to introduce an anecdote of f 
 hard-dp.inker, on which the reader may implicitly rely, as it i: 
 one that came immediately under our own observation. Thi 
 person alluded to was naturally a very powerful and muscula; 
 man, and a great brawler among his associates. Pie lived in the 
 country, and was conversant with agricultural employment; but 
 being a person of some property, he was not obliged to labour 
 We have known him to drink, in the course of two or three hour; 
 in an afternoon, without rising from his seat, eight pints (one wint 
 gallon) of very strong cyder, and he has afterwards walked home 
 a distance of more than half a mile, to appearance sober. Or 
 reference to our article on Cyder, page 393, we find the highes 
 average of that liquor per cent, of alcohol, according to Mr 
 Brande’s table, to be 9.87 ; that is, nearly one-tenth: We hav< 
 reason to believe that the cyder which he drank contained mud 
 more alcohol than this proportion, probably about one-eighth, and 
 if so, he must have drunk spirit equal to that in a quart of brandy 
 But what was the ultimate consequence of such excesses ? he be 
 came, for years, a miserable object both in mind and body ; hii 
 
DISTILLATION. 
 
 405 
 
 As a finale to this Section of our work we beg leave to 
 iy before the reader the LVIIth ode of Anacreon, as 
 ranslated by Fawkes, 
 
 That we should drink with moderation. 
 
 Bring hither, boy, a mighty bowl. 
 
 And let me quench my thirsty soul; 
 
 Fill two parts water, till it high. 
 
 Add one of wine, for I am dry ; 
 
 Thus let the limpid stream allay 
 The. jolly god’s too potent sway. 
 
 Quick, boy, dispatch—My Friends, no more 
 Thus let us drinking rant, and roar ; 
 
 Such clamorous riot better suits 
 Unpolish’d Scythia’s barbarous brutes : 
 
 Let us, while music tunes the soul, 
 
 Mir temperance in the friendly howl* 
 
 DISTILLATION is a process by which the most spi- 
 tuous, volatile, and aromatic particles of bodies are sepa- 
 ated from their grosser parts, and are thus rendered more 
 ■uitable for a variety of purposes, not only in medicine and 
 1 the arts, but also in the cookery of food and drink. We 
 lave, in pages 386 and 387, adverted to some of the advan- 
 iges to be derived from a discreet use of diluted spirits. It 
 frill be our business here to describe shortly the process of 
 Distillation, so that any person of moderate capacity may 
 vactise it. The still, as seen in the annexed engraving, 
 onsists of a copper vessel separable into two parts; the 
 pper part, with a swan neck, which is sometimes made of 
 'eivter, is called the head, the lower the body, into the 
 eck of which the head is inserted. The worm, which 
 
 rental agonies were sometimes excruciating and intolerable; 
 e was besides to all social purposes insane. Such are the effects 
 f inordinate drinking! Liquor is a seductive companion, and 
 ncroaches upon us by almost imperceptible degrees; every one 
 ught to be aware of its insidiousness : 
 
 Nemo vepente fuit turpissimus ! 
 
 * Anacreon, as well as some other poets who have been some- 
 imes 
 
 “ Rapt in the pleasing joys of wine,” 
 
 as not always written so modestly concerning it: the “jolly god” 
 nd “ wine”" are in this poet’s writings somewhat too often and 
 )o rapturously invoked : Wine is a good servant but a bad 
 raster. 
 
406 
 
 DISTILLATION. 
 
 consists of pewter, is placed in a tub filled with cold water, 
 (in the drawing a part of the tub is removed to show the 
 worm,) to condense the hot steam of the still as it comes 
 over and passes off condensed through the worm. Under 
 the still is a furnace in which the fire to boil it is kindled. 
 
 A is the upper part of the worm ; B the lower end, out of which the 
 distilled liquor passes into a proper receiver. 
 
 When you wish to distil any thing, suppose merely a little 
 rose water , you have only to put a certain quantity of fresh 
 gathered or salted roses into the still (see forwards) and 
 water sufficient to fill it about three parts or more full; 
 then put on the head, but do not immediately lute it, 
 because it will be necessary just before the still boils to stir 
 the ingredients well, once or more, lest they should stick to 
 the bottom of the still and burn. The fire being kindled, 
 and your still being about to boil, adjust the head to the 
 worm and to the still itself, and then make a paste with 
 coarse flour and water, and lay it on strips of brown paper, 
 about an inch or more wfide, and press the paper closely 
 over the joint formed by the union of the head and body 
 of the still, so that the two may become for the purposes 
 of distillation as one vessel; this is called luting. As the 
 heat increases, keep your hand grasped around the neck 
 of the head just before it enters the worm, (at which joint 
 
DISTILLATION. 407 
 
 some moistened bladder skin must be tied to constitute that 
 jpait of the tube also air-tight,) and, when it becomes so 
 hot as to be nearly if not quite unbearable, it is a proof 
 that the process of distillation has begun; and here it will 
 be most advisable to lower the fire by opening - the furnace- 
 door for a few minutes, in order to moderate the heat at 
 the commencement: for if a considerable heat be applied 
 very suddenly, the still might boil over and the whole ope¬ 
 ration be spoiled. On this first regulation of the heat 
 depends generally the success of the process; as, after the 
 distillation has proceeded for some time, there is very little 
 danger of the still’s boiling over. The liquid, which 
 usually distils in a small stream, may be received in any 
 convenient vessel. A very little experience will soon render 
 the operator expert in conducting this simple and, we must 
 add, very valuable and useful process. 
 
 Stills are usually made of copper. That of which we 
 have given a drawing is set in brick-work, and the smoke 
 makes its exit behind the still into a chimney, which is not 
 shown in the above engraving. Smaller stills are, how¬ 
 ever, often moveable. They are made of various sizes; 
 some in large distilleries w - ill hold many thousand gallons; 
 one which will hold half a dozen gallons or even less will 
 generally be sufficient for a private family; but the worm 
 to condense the distilled water , spirit, &c. is indispensable. 
 Copper stills are employed chiefly, if not entirely, for the 
 distillation of spirits, aromatic waters, and essential oils. 
 When acids are employed in distillation, glass retorts 
 placed in a sand heat or over a lamp are used. 
 
 There is one other mode of distillation, called Balneum 
 Maria:, or water-bath; it consists of a copper cylinder, 
 which can be put into the still, and which descends to 
 within a few inches of the bottom of it; the head of the 
 still is adapted to the cylinder; the still is half or more 
 filled with water, and the material to be distilled is put into 
 the cylinder apart from the water in the still; and thus the 
 residue of the distillation may be preserved. It is not often 
 employed in domestic economy, but in the preparations of 
 some extracts in Pharmacy it is of great use. See for- 
 ijwards, under Liqueurs distill^es. 
 
 By the simple process which we have just described, 
 
408 
 
 DISTILLED SPIRITS. 
 
 may not only the aromatic principles of plants be obtained, 
 such as that of the rose, elder flowers, orange flowers, 
 and numerous others, but also the waters and essential 
 oils from peppermint, pennyroyal, lavender, rosemary, 
 &c. &c. 
 
 There is, however, another process of distillation, called 
 Rectification ; it consists in distilling again with pot¬ 
 ash, or other alkaline salt, to arrest the gross oleous parts 
 of the malt or other spirit, which has been obtained from 
 malt, wines, cyder, &c. and thus they are rendered at 
 once purer and stronger. 
 
 In the wine countries Brandy is thus obtained; it is, 
 when distilled, colourless; the colour being added to it 
 afterwards. In the West Indies Rum is produced first by 
 the fermentation of sugar with water and afterwards dis¬ 
 tilled ; and in this country malt or sugar is fermented with 
 water to produce the spirit or alcohol in a similar way 
 to that directed for malt under brewing, but without hops. 
 When this spirit is flavoured with oil of turpentine and 
 sometimes angelica root, it is called Gin. In Holland the 
 gin is said to be flavoured with juniper berries. 
 
 In Distilled Spirits, whether it be called Brandy, 
 Rum, Gin, or Whiskey, the spirit, or alcohol, is in all 
 the same; their difference consists either in their strength, 
 or more usually in the flavouring materials contained in 
 the wane, &c. previous to their distillation, or in the addi¬ 
 tion of some article or articles during the rectification. 
 Bu andy contains either a resin or essential oil, which it 
 does not appear possible to imitate ; and which, as a medi¬ 
 cine, is often peculiarly grateful to the stomach. Rum 
 holds in solution a portion of the essential oil of the sugar, 
 by which it is peculiarly distinguished, and is not so well 
 suited to the stomach as brandy. Gin, as we have seen, 
 page 387, is a valuable diuretic, and holds some turpen¬ 
 tine and other matters in solution. Whiskey, and the Gin 
 of Holland, though strong, are flavoured peculiarly, and 
 are not so well adapted to the stomach and constitution as 
 English Gin. 
 
 Excess in drinking spirits of any kind, and 
 especially those which are not diluted with a considerable 
 portion of water, cannot be too much deprecated. See what 
 
SPIRITS. 
 
 409 
 
 i3 said, page 404, concerning Excess in drinking Wine ; 
 the miseries produced by all such excesses are very similar, 
 and, therefore, need not be here again described. Indeed the 
 evils resulting from drunkenness are so many, both moral 
 and natural, that many persons have been desirous of pro¬ 
 hibiting the use of ardent spirits altogether; but, if the 
 great and terrible punishments which will assuredly, sooner 
 or later, visit the drunkard, do not deter him from his 
 course, we fear that no law, however penal, will do it. The 
 remedy must be sought, among the lower classes in parti¬ 
 cular, by directing the mind to purer and more tranquil 
 channels of amusement than are found in the beer or the 
 gin-shop—to the improvement of the intellectual man, 
 and in adding to the comforts of his home. Hence 
 reading and the Mechanics' Institutions are of great im¬ 
 portance in this desirable change. 
 
 The proportion, per cent., of spirit, according to Mr. 
 Braude’s table is, in Brandy , 53.39; in Rum , 53.68; 
 in Gin , 51.60;* in Scotch Whiskey , 54.32; in Irish 
 Whiskey, 53.90. So that we see Scotch Whiskey is the 
 strongest of all. What is called rectified spirit of wine 
 contains according to the Phar. Lond. of 1788, of alcohol 
 95 parts, of water 5 parts in 100. Proof spirit, according 
 to the same authority, contains of alcohol 55 parts, of 
 water 45 parts in 100. See page 189 note. Proof spirit 
 is usually obtained by merely mixing rectified spirit of wine 
 with water in the proportions here set down, namely, by 
 taking the parts for ounces, 55 of the spirit and 45 of the 
 water. 
 
 These being, then, the processes and products of spirituous 
 distillation, if we should be desirous of obtaining the spirit 
 from any wine, cyder, or even malt liquor, we have nothing- 
 more to do than to fill the still three-fourths or more full 
 with the liquor, and to distil it as we have directed, till the 
 fluid which distils tastes no more of spirit. If we desire its 
 rectification, w r e must mix a suitable portion of dried or 
 
 * This must be understood of the very best gin. The gin 
 usually obtained in the shops is much weaker than this ; we doubt 
 whether, when submitted to the test of the hydrometer, most of the 
 gin drunk by the common people in the metropolis contains much 
 more than thirty per cent, of spirit, if so much. 
 
 T 
 
410 
 
 DISTILLED WATERS. 
 
 caustic potash with the distilled spirit, and distil it again, 
 taking more especial care in this second distillation that the 
 heat be moderate, and that sufficient water remain in the 
 still to prevent its burning. In all these distillations it must 
 not be forgotten that spirit is a highly combustible material. 
 
 Having thus given general directions for distillation, we 
 proceed to add a few forms, premising that waters distilled, 
 from green vegetables will not keep so well as those which 
 are distilled from dry, such as peppermint for instance; 
 although there is no doubt that the green plant possesses 
 more virtues than the dry. This is so well known by the 
 distillers of oil of peppermint in this country, that it is 
 always obtained from it in the large way in a green state. 
 
 ESSENCE OF PEPPERMINT. Take of oil of pep¬ 
 permint one ounce, of rectified spirit of wine four ounces; 
 mix them. 
 
 Note , that this is a useful form for making peppermint 
 water without the trouble of distillation. Two drachms of 
 which, by measure, poured upon half an ounce of lump 
 sugar, rubbed a little together and then dissolved in a pint 
 of water, will be found superior to most of the peppermint- 
 water of the shops. 
 
 
 
 PEPPERMINT-WATER. Take of dried * pepper¬ 
 
 mint a pound and a half; or of oil of peppermint, by weight , 
 three drachms. Put sufficient water into the still to pre¬ 
 vent burning, and employ either the oil or the dry herb, and 
 distil one gallon. 1 
 
 Note, that these are the directions for peppermint-water 
 in the Phar. Lond. of 1824; but see above Essence of 
 Peppermint. 
 
 SPEARMINT WATER is made in a similar way to 
 
 * If green peppermint be used, it should be in double the quan¬ 
 tity. Dried peppermint and other dried herbs are not considered 
 fit for use if more than one year old. Peppermint, mentha ■piperita, 
 is a perennial indigenous plant, growing in moist places and flow¬ 
 ering in August and September. It is cultivated largely in the 
 neighbourhood of London, and is found in most gardens. There 
 are three varieties. Cultivators say that the root must be trans¬ 
 planted every three years, or it will degenerate. Its taste is 
 pungent and penetrating; all its virtues, or nearly so, appear to 
 reside in its essential oil. It is considered by almost every one an 
 excellent stimulating carminative. 
 
J 
 
 DISTILLED WATERS. 411 
 
 that directed for peppermint-water, either with the herb or 
 with the oil. A water may be also made in the same way 
 as directed under Essence of Peppermint, with oil of spear¬ 
 mint dissolved in rectified spirits of wine. 
 
 PENNYROYAL-WATER is made in the same way 
 as the preceding-, either with the herb, with the oil, or the 
 oil made into an essence, as directed under Essence of 
 Peppermint. 
 
 CINNAMON-WATER is made either by macerating- 
 one pound of bruised cinnamon in water for twenty-four 
 hours, and then adding- sufficient water to the still to pre¬ 
 vent burning, and distilling a gallon ; or by adding five 
 scruples of the oil of cinnamon instead of the bruised 
 cinnamon, and distilling off a gallon from a proper quantity 
 of water; or the same quantity of Cassia buds bruised 
 may be employed instead of cinnamon. See page 188. 
 
 Note, a cinnamon-water may be made by dissolving the 
 oil in rectified spirit of wine, rubbing it with sugar as di¬ 
 rected for Peppermint-Water, under Essence or Pep¬ 
 permint, and then mixing the solution with a proper 
 quantity of water. Note also that oil of Cassia is usually 
 sold for oil of cinnamon; there is some difference in their 
 smells; but they are essentially the same. 
 
 In a similar way may be made a Water from Dill- 
 seed, Caraway-seed, Fennel-seed, and Allspice; 
 
 S in each case the seeds must be bruised. A pound of each 
 is the proportion for a gallon of water. 
 
 ROSE-WATER. Take of the fresh petals of the hun¬ 
 dred-leaved or cabbage-rose, eight pounds; pour on them 
 :in the still sufficient water to prevent burning, and distil off 
 a gallon. 
 
 Note, that this form is from the Phar. Lond.; but six 
 pounds of roses are more commonly the quantity employed. 
 And note also, that although the petals only are directed to 
 be used, few persons who distil roses in the large way take 
 the trouble to separate them from the calyxes and the seeds. 
 It should be observed also, that if towards the end of the 
 aperation, or, indeed, after the gallon of water be distilled, 
 the heat be augmented under the still, a portion of oil, of 
 the consistence of butter, will come over, and may be pre¬ 
 served as a sort of attar of roses ; or be mixed with some 
 
 t 2 
 
 
412 
 
 SPIRITUOUS DISTILLED WATERS. 
 
 liquid oil so as to become a fluid, and thus be employed as 
 a scent. 
 
 It is somewhat remarkable, but is nevertheless a fact, 
 that the best rose-water is distilled from salted roses. 
 They are salted thus : to every three pounds of roses add one 
 pound of common salt; beat the salt and roses together into 
 a sort of pulp, and keep them in a stone jar closely covered 
 from the air. Thus preserved they will keep in a cool place 
 for years. The same weight of salted roses is necessary as 
 of the fresh petals for each gallon of water, allowing-, besides, 
 one pound in every four for the salt. It should be also 
 noted that the Phar. Lond. orders Jive ounces, by mea¬ 
 sure, of proof spirit, to be added to each gallon of all 
 distilled waters, in order to preserve them. 
 
 DISTILLED WATER. When water is wanted ex¬ 
 traordinarily pure, it is ordered to be distilled thus:—put 
 ten gallons of water into a still, (which, as well as the 
 worm, must be made thoroughly clean ; the worm by being 
 filled with boiling water, and suffered to remain a short time 
 in it, and then forced out by blowing strongly at its upper 
 orifice,) and let the first four pints which come over be 
 thrown away, the next four gallons must be kept in a glass 
 or stone bottle. 
 
 SPIRITUOUS DISTILLED WATERS. Spirit is 
 employed when it is desirable that a considerable portion of 
 the oleous and aromatic, as well as some other properties of 
 vegetables, should be dissolved in the compound. Such is 
 lavender water, &c. But here, as well as in some of the 
 preceding forms, the essential oil (see page 201) of many 
 plants will be found to make a superior spirit to any which 
 can be distilled from the vegetable itself, provided it be first 
 carefully dissolved in rectified spirit of wine. 
 
 LAVENDER WATER, or SPIRIT OF LAVENDER. 
 The Phar. Lond. thus directs this to be made:—Take of 
 fresh flowers of lavender, two pounds; of rectified spirit of 
 wine, a gallon; water sufficient to prevent burning; ma¬ 
 cerate for twenty-four hours, and then distil off a gallon by 
 a gentle heat. 
 
 Or, take of oil of lavender, half an ounce ; of oil of rose¬ 
 mary, one scruple ; of camphor, one scruple ; of rectified 
 spirits of wine, two pints; of water, one pint; of essence 
 

 SPIRITUOUS DISTILLED WATERS. 413 
 
 of ambergris, one drachm. Dissolve the oil and camphor 
 in the rectified spirit of wine, then add the essence of am¬ 
 bergris, and lastly the water. Should it not be fine, a 
 drachm or two of common alum rubbed with a small por¬ 
 tion of the water in a glass or marble mortar, and the whole 
 well shaken together, will cause it to become fine in a few 
 hours. 
 
 COMPOUND SPIRIT OF LAVENDER. Take of 
 
 spirit of lavender, three pints; of spirit of rosemary, 
 (see below,) one pint; cinnamon and nutmegs bruised, of 
 each half an ounce ; red sanders’ wood chipped, one ounce ; 
 macerate for fourteen days, and strain. 
 
 Note, that if this is desired of a deep red colour, it should 
 be macerated for a month or more. 
 
 SPIRIT OF ROSEMARY, or HUNGARY WATER, 
 may be made by macerating two pounds of fresh rosemary 
 tops in a gallon of proof spirit, with w T ater sufficient to pre- 
 ■ vent burning, for twenty-four hours, and then distilling off 
 a gallon. 
 
 Or, by dissolving one ounce of oil of rosemary in one 
 gallon of rectified spirit of wine, then adding sufficient wa¬ 
 ter to prevent burning, and distilling off a gallon. 
 
 Or, take of oil of rosemary one ounce, camphor one 
 drachm, of rectified spirit of wine three pints, of water one 
 pint and a half; dissolve the oil and camphor first in the 
 rectified spirit of wane, to which add the water. Should 
 the mixture not be fine, add a little alum as directed for 
 lavender water above ; but if the spirit is designed to be 
 taken internally, the alum should be omitted. 
 
 OTHER SPIRITUOUS WATERS, such as Pepper¬ 
 mint, Spearmint, Pennyroyal, Cinnamon, Cara¬ 
 way, &c. &c. may be made by merely dissolving a small 
 portion of the oil of each in rectified spirit, as directed for 
 lavender and rosemary, and then adding sufficient water to 
 constitute it a strong proof spirit; but alum should not be 
 added to these waters as they are designed for internal use. 
 
 Or, the oils may be distilled with rectified spirit, as di- 
 j rected under rosemary . 
 
 For other Compound Spirits, such as from Juniper- 
 Berries, Horse-Radish, &c. see our Family Cyclo- 
 poedia. 
 
414 
 
 BRANDIES, RATAFIAS. 
 
 SPIRIT OF WINE AND CAMPHOR is made by 
 simply dissolving two ounces of camphor in one pint of rec¬ 
 tified spirit of wine. 
 
 CHERRY BRANDY. Stone black morello or any 
 other cherries you choose, and bruise the stones in a mor¬ 
 tar. To every pound of the cherries, put a pint of brandy, 
 and dig’est them and the stones in it for at least a month, 
 occasionally shaking or stirring' the ingredients. Pour it 
 off, and press the residue, which, when strained, must be 
 mixed with the clear brandy. Bottle it for use. 
 
 LEMON AND ORANGE BRANDY is made by di¬ 
 gesting the outside peels of the respective fruits, grated fine, 
 in brandy, and adding the juice of the fruits to it. If you 
 desire your brandy to taste strongly, you must employ a 
 large number of lemons or oranges to every gallon of 
 brandy. 
 
 Note, that some put sugar to this liqueur, after the man¬ 
 ner of the French. But such addition will certainly render 
 it less wholesome. 
 
 RASPBERRY BRANDY. Stew raspberries till they 
 can be made easily* into a pulp. Take equal parts by mea¬ 
 sure of the pulp and brandy. Let them digest for a month; 
 strain the liquor off, and bottle it. 
 
 Note, that some put sugar to it, but it is not necessary; 
 the more sugar you put, the more the peculiar taste of the 
 raspberry will be taken away. 
 
 BRANDIES may be flavoured with OTHER RIPE 
 FRUITS in a similar manner. 
 
 RATAFIA OF RASPBERRIES. Take two gallons 
 of brandy, four of the juice of raspberries, (which you may 
 obtain by stew’ing and pressing them,) one of the juice of 
 cherries, (obtained in like manner,) and four pounds of 
 sugar. When the sugar is dissolved in the juice of the 
 fruits, add to it the brandy, and set by the mixture. When 
 it has become clear, pour it off, filter it, and bottle it.* 
 RATAFIA OF FOUR FRUITS. Take thirty pounds 
 of cherries, fifteen pounds of red currants,f eight of rasp- 
 
 * For this and the following ratafias we are indebted to the 
 Cuisinier Royal of M. M. Viard et Fouret. 
 
 t We have translated groseilles, which we find in the original, 
 red currants, presuming that the red currant of our gardens was in- 
 
RATAFIAS. 
 
 415 
 
 J berries, and six of black currants. Take off the stems of 
 the cherries, and express the juice from the fruits mixed 
 together, to every quart of which add six ounces of sugar, 
 one quart of brandy, two drachms of cloves, and one of 
 
 ! mace. When the liquor has remained some time, and is 
 clear, you must pour it off and bottle it. 
 
 RATAFIA OF RED CURRANTS. Take one gallon 
 of brandy, half a gallon of the juice of red currants, two 
 pounds of bruised sugar, one drachm each of bruised cinna¬ 
 mon and cloves. The currants must be freed from their 
 seeds before you press the juice from them, and the spices 
 must be digested in the brandy for a few days before you 
 j add the juice to it. Let the whole, being mixed, stand to- 
 
 ( gether for a month ; after which pour off the liquor, dis¬ 
 solve the sugar in it, and filter. 
 
 RATAFIA OF BLACK CURRANTS. Take one gal- 
 Ion and a half of brandy, one quart of river water, two 
 1 pounds of black currants, two pounds of bruised sugar, one 
 pound of black cherries, six ounces of black currant leaves, 
 and one drachm of cinnamon or cloves. Crush the fruits 
 and leaves and bruise the cinnamon; digest the whole in 
 the brandy for a month; dissolve the sugar in the water ; 
 pour off the digested liquor, and add the dissolved sugar to 
 it; filter it, and put it into bottles. 
 
 RATAFIA OF MULBERRIES. Take two gallons of 
 brandy, one of river ivater, three pounds and a half of 
 sugar, three pounds of mulberries, half a pound each of red 
 currants and raspberries, and half a drachm of mace. Having 
 separated the seeds from the currants, mix all the fruits to¬ 
 gether, crush them, and digest the juice obtained from them 
 in the brandy for fifteen or eighteen days. Then dissolve 
 the sugar in the water; pour off the digested brandy, and 
 mix the dissolved sugar with it. Filter it, and bottle it. 
 
 RATAFIA OF PEACHES. Take two gallons of 
 brandy, one gallon of the juice of peaches, and four pounds 
 of bruised sugar. The peaches must be at once thoroughly 
 
 tended to be employed. It is to be regretted that this defect 
 occurs in the language of our neighbours : we shall be glad to see 
 it corrected. The primary signification of groseille is gooseberry, 
 as every one knows ; why not adopt our own word currant for the 
 ! smaller and very different fruit ? 
 
41(3 NOYAU, RATAFIAS. 
 
 ripe and sound. Having taken out the stones, put the 
 peaches into a linen cloth and press out the juice, which 
 mix with the brandy, and set it by for six weeks. Then 
 pour off the mixture, and add the sugar to it. Filter the 
 ratafia and bottle it. 
 
 RATAFIA DE NOYAUX, or NOYAU. Take one 
 gallon of brandy, two pounds of bruised sugar, one pint of 
 river water, one pound and a quarter of the kernels of 
 apricots or peaches, and one drachm of cinnamon or cloves. 
 Care must be taken that the kernels are fresh, and that 
 they are blanched.* Bruise them in a marble mortar wfith 
 the spice, and let them digest in the brandy for three or 
 four months; then strain the mixture through a tammy, 
 to which add the sugar dissolved in the water; filter. 
 
 Note, that Noyau is more frequently made in this 
 country with bitter almonds, and either colourless brandy, 
 Holland gin, whiskey, or common English gin. In what¬ 
 ever way made, we consider it an abomination. Beware of 
 the Prussic Acid !f See Almonds, page 312. 
 
 N.B. —Our Gallican neighbours make many other 
 Ratafias ; such as Ratafia of Juniper, which is 
 flavoured w'ith juniper berrries, anise and coriander seed, 
 cloves and cinnamon ; Ratafia of Quinces ; Ratafia 
 of Angelica ; Ratafia of ripe Muscadine Grapes, 
 &c. 
 
 Note, that we do not recommend one of the preceding 
 forms of our Gallican neighbours to the favourable attention 
 of our readers, being w T ell persuaded that, except for very 
 robust stomachs, they are all more or less mischievous com¬ 
 pounds. 
 
 Observe, too, that we have followed the directions in the 
 original French of the preceding forms by translating the 
 verb filtrer to filter. But in English to filter implies, 
 almost always, a more effectually clarifying process than the 
 French filtrer as here used; the word strain is more appro- 
 
 * Some employ these kernels without blanching, (see Manuel de 
 Cuisinier, page 310 ;) and we fear that our English noyuux are too 
 often flavoured with unblanched almonds. 
 
 t It is said that Duke Charles, of Lorraine, nearly lost his life 
 by drinking some noyau strongly impregnated with peach kernels 
 Juurnul de Debats, December, 1814. 
 
417 
 
 LIQUEURS DISTILLEES. 
 
 priate, for syrups will not pass through filtering paper, 
 that is, the paper generally known as blotting paper. All 
 these ratafias assume more or less the form of syrups. 
 
 It is remarkable in regard to the process of filtration 
 that water does not readily pass through filtering paper; but 
 a portion of salt of almost any kind gives it the disposition 
 to filter immediately; so also will most acids, as well as 
 spirit of wine mixed in almost any proportion with water. 
 Thus, most tinctures made with either proof or rectified 
 spirit readily pass the filter; yet if the tincture be much 
 charged with resinous substances, as aloes, benjamin, &c. 
 
 ! its property of filtering is greatly diminished. Hence in 
 this as in some other cases, as well as the ratafias above, a 
 flannel or other woollen cloth is to be preferred as a strainer. 
 
 LIQUEURS DISTILLEES, &c. We reluctantly give 
 place to this subsection of the last chapter of our work. 
 But, as we hope and believe that the principles which have, 
 throughout it, been developed, and the practice of which 
 has been also zealously enforced, are founded on the firm 
 basis of utility and truth, we have not much fear of 
 their just application when the merit or demerit of these 
 liqueurs are determined, by those who shall give themselves 
 
 ! the trouble to become acquainted with what we have pre¬ 
 viously advanced. 
 
 CREME DE C&DRATS BISTILLEE. Infuse the 
 outside peels or zests of four very fresh fine citrons having 
 a good perfume, in a gallon and a half of strong brandy, 
 to which add a quart of water, in a jar well stopped for 
 many da) s. Distil from the liquor by a water bath (see 
 page 407) one gallon of spirit. Dissolve now three pounds 
 and a half of sugar in seven pints of water, and mix the 
 solution with the spirit; strain it through a flannel bag or filter 
 it through paper. (See what is said on Filtration, above. 
 
 Note, that to make good liqueurs the best brandy must 
 be chosen ; above all for distillation. That from Montpellier 
 is to be preferred to Cognac. 
 
 In distilling any of these liqueurs the first portion which 
 comes over is generally an insipid phlegm which should be 
 thrown away; the taste will inform you when the spiiit 
 begins to distil.* 
 
 * 
 
 t 3 
 
 Cuisinier Royal, page 524. 
 
418 
 
 PARFA1T AMOUR, USQUEBAUGH. 
 
 PARFAIT AMOUR— Perfect Love. The citron is 
 the basis of this liqueur. A few other ingredients and its 
 red colour distinguish it from the preceding. You must 
 add, therefore, to the form given for Crime de Ccdrats 
 above, half an ounce of fine cinnamon, four ounces of 
 coriander seeds, both bruised and digested with the zest of 
 the citrons and then distilled in the same manner. Dissolve 
 next three pounds of sugar in three quarts of water; the 
 red colour must be given to it by cochineal, for the prepa¬ 
 ration of which see below. Filter your liquor and bottle it. 
 
 PREPARED COCHINEAL. Take one ounce of 
 cochineal powdered ver) T fine; one ounce of cream of tartar 
 and two drachms of alum, both also in powder; put them 
 into a saucepan with half a gallon of water; when it boils 
 remove the saucepan from the fire and let the liquor grow 
 cold and clear. Keep the sediment for use. 
 
 Note, that it is stated in the Cuisinier Royal, page 502, 
 whence this form is taken, that it supplies the place of both 
 carmine and cochineal. But although we give place to it 
 here we do not approve of such colouring materials in our 
 food; see what is said in page 290 concerning saffron and 
 
 tUT77l€TlC, 
 
 SCUBA or USQUEBAUGH. (See page 245.) Take 
 one gallon and a half of brandy and one quart of water; 
 infuse one ounce of saffron in three pints of the brandy 
 in order that its colour may be obtained; put the remaining 
 brandy into a jar and add to it the outside peel of four 
 lemons, two ounces of coriander seeds, two drachms of 
 cinnamon, one drachm of mace, twelve cloves, and one 
 ounce of bitter almonds all pounded. Let them infuse for 
 eight days when your distillation may be made. Before 
 putting the fire under the still strain the tincture of saffron 
 through a tammy and keep it for mixture after the distilla¬ 
 tion. Put the strained saffron to the rest of the ingredients 
 and distil from a water bath one gallon as directed under 
 Creme de Cedrats. As this liqueur ought to be more 
 unctuous than other liqueurs, you must dissolve four pounds 
 of sugar in seven pints of water, which mix with your dis¬ 
 tilled spirit. Mix also the tincture of saffron with it and 
 strain the whole through a flannel bag.* 
 
 * Cuisinier Royal, page 528. 
 
419 
 
 LIQUEURS — PUNCH. 
 
 Note, that other and more complicated forms are some¬ 
 times given for usquebaugh. One may be seen in our 
 Family Cyclopaedia which need not be here described. 
 
 And note also that, if you desire your usquebaugh to be 
 : colourless, you must omit the saffron altogether. 
 
 LIQUEURS DE QUATRE FRUITS JAUNES. Take 
 a gallon and a half of brandy; two citrons; four lemons; 
 two bergamottes and four fine Portugal oranges. Let all 
 these fruits be fresh and of a fine smell; pare of their out¬ 
 side rind as fine as possible without touching the white 
 j beneath; digest the zests in the brandy for a few days, to 
 which add a quart of water and distil as directed under 
 ! Creme de Cedrats. Dissolve three pounds and a half 
 of sugar in seven pints of water; mix the solution with the 
 spirit and strain it through a flannel bag. 
 
 CREME DE MOKA is made with a gallon and a half 
 of brandy and eight ounces of Mocha coffee, roasted and 
 ground as for ordinary coffee. The coffee must be digested 
 in the brandy during eight days and then distilled in a water 
 bath as directed under Creme de Cedrats. The distilla¬ 
 tion must be slowly and cautiously conducted, or the coffee 
 I. will come over and spoil the operation. The same quantity 
 of spirit must be drawn from it as directed under Crane de 
 Cedrats and the same quantity of sugar dissolved in the 
 same quantity of water. 
 
 PUNCH. Make tea more or less strong, more or less 
 light, strain it, sugar it while hot and squeeze into it the 
 juice of two, four, or half a dozen lemons, according- to 
 the quantity of the punch you desire to make; when the 
 ! whole is made boiling hot pour into it a dose more or less 
 strong of rum or any other pleasant spirit, or w r ine; follow¬ 
 ing- also the taste or inclination of those W'ho desire to take 
 1 it boiling or moderately hot. It is useless, when we put only 
 the necessary quantity of spirit, to burn it; which process 
 only serves to lessen both its goodness and its strength.* 
 
 Having disposed of our neighbour's ratafias and 
 liqueurs, we now proceed to some of our domestic mix¬ 
 tures of a similar kind. 
 
 PUNCH, acccording to our English method, is made 
 in a great many different ways. A good rule is to take 
 * See Manuel de Cuisinier, page 308. 
 
420 
 
 SHRUB, ORGEAT. 
 
 equal parts, by measure, of rum, brandy, or other spirit, 
 the juice of lemons, and boiling water; to which must be 
 added sugar sufficient to impart a pleasant sweetness ; and 
 to which should be also added sufficient of the outside peel 
 of the lemon, so as to flavour the punch agreeably. 
 
 Note, that the best method of mixing the above ingre¬ 
 dients is to rub off the outside peel of the lemons with 
 lumps of the sugar first, and then pour the boiling water 
 on it, to which should be added the lemon juice ; this solu¬ 
 tion constitutes what is usually called Sherbet ; the spirit 
 should be added last. Or, the outside peel may be grated 
 and digested in the spirit for two or three days previously 
 to making the punch, which is the most elegant way. 
 Note also that some employ equal quantities of rum and 
 brandy; and some strain the lemon juice; but many per¬ 
 sons prefer it unstrained. We do not agree with one of our 
 contemporaries that “ two good lemons are enough to make 
 four quarts of punch.” The fault of most punch is its 
 deficiency of the acid. Punch is in its best state when 
 drunk moderately hot, and soon after it is made. How 
 pleasant soever this liquor may be, we cannot recommend it 
 at any time to the dyspeptic. 
 
 The French, see above, make a tea instead of water to 
 be mixed with the punch; tea is sometimes, but not com¬ 
 monly, employed for the same purpose in this country. 
 
 SHRUB is made in various ways; it consists of lemon 
 or Seville orange juice, sugar, and rum or brandy. The 
 peels of the lemons or oranges should be first digested in 
 the rum or brandy for a day or two, and then the sugar and 
 juice be added to it. When fine, it may be bottled. In this 
 liquor the spirit is generally in much larger quantity than 
 the acid. It is, in truth, a fanciful liquor, and not to be 
 commended. A shrub is sometimes made with the juice of 
 scalded White Currants, pulped through a sieve, in the 
 proportion of one part juice, two of rum, and one of sugar. 
 
 ORGEAT is altogether a French composition; it is made 
 in various ways, but consists essentially of sweet or bitter 
 and sweet almonds, blanched by soaking in cold water, and 
 then beaten into a paste with a little water, and afterwards 
 diluted with more water, so as to be made into a milk, 
 which must be strained, (see page 311) and mixed with 
 
MEDICINAL COOKERY. 
 
 421 
 
 
 lump sugar dissolved in orange flower water by means of 
 a water bath. When it is cold, it should be bottled and 
 kept in a cool place, so as to constitute a sort of syrup * 
 
 Note, that when orgeat is made for immediate use, milk 
 is sometimes added to it; and some will also add to it a 
 small quantity of brandy. But we have nothing to say in 
 favour of any of these mixtures. 
 
 COOL TANKARD is made in many ways. Dr. Ivit- 
 chiner recommends a quart of mild ale, a glass of white 
 wine, the same of brandy, and of capillaire, (see page 
 321) the juice of a lemon, a roll of the peel pared thin, 
 grated nutmeg, a sprig of borage or balm, and a bit of 
 toasted bread. Those who like such messes are welcome to 
 them; we are in duty bound to disapprove of them, see 
 (page 191. 
 
 PURL consists of sea worm-wood, gentian root, horse¬ 
 radish, orange peel, juniper berries, &c. put into mild 
 strong beer, in the month of November, and remaining 
 digesting in it till the spring, when it will be fit to drink. 
 Persons who are fond of bitter draughts will, perhaps, like 
 purl. 
 
 MEDICINAL COOKERY. General Observa¬ 
 tions. If, in the last section, we have been obliged to 
 depart, in deference to Fashion, from a careful scrutiny, 
 and even from a rejection of many articles assuredly injurious 
 to health ; it is become peculiarly necessary that we should 
 here assume a more rigid censorship, and permit nothing 
 to creep in that may operate against the restoration of those 
 who unfortunately labour under disease. We intreat, there¬ 
 fore, that the cook will be most scrupulously careful in 
 attending to the directions which we shall here give: the 
 sympathy which every well regulated mind feels on such 
 occasions, and the pleasure of contributing to the relief 
 of pain, furnish the best stimuli for the successful exertions 
 of those who are in any w r ay attendant upon or connected 
 with the sick. What, in fact, can be a greater blessing to 
 a sick master or mistress than to know and feel that they 
 have about them a steady, feeling, and intelligent servant ? 
 Indeed, it has been often said that a good nurse is some- 
 
 * Manuel de Cuisinier, page 311. 
 
422 
 
 MEDICINAL COOKERY. 
 
 times of more consequence than even a good physician : for 
 if the directions given by the physician be not observed by 
 the nurse ; if the many things which are necessary for the 
 nurse and the cook to do be not attended to, or be done 
 badly, the physician’s skill will often be exerted in vain. 
 We might enlarge further on this topic here, but we must 
 forbear.* 
 
 We cannot too much insist upon the necessity of 
 cleanliness in the preparation of all food for the 
 sick ; a little thing will often produce disgust in delicate 
 stomachs. 
 
 Nor can we quit these introductory observations with¬ 
 out especially calling the attention of the cook and 
 the nurse to the very great responsibility of preparing 
 food for, and administering medicines to, the sick. The 
 doses of medicine in particular should be most carefully 
 attended to ; a mistake in this respect may be of the most 
 fatal consequence. That, as the administration of medi¬ 
 cine is at all times attended with such responsibility, the 
 giving of it either wantonly, thoughtlessly, or carelessly, 
 deserves severe animadversion : health and life are too im¬ 
 portant to be placed in contact with ignorance, carelessness, 
 or folly. 
 
 Note, that similar observations to these have been stated 
 in our Family Cyclopaedia again and again; but they 
 can scarcely be repeated too often. 
 
 BEEF TEA is directed in several of our cookery books 
 to be made by simply pouring boiling water on some lean 
 pieces of beef cut small, and after standing for an hour or 
 less, the clear liquor is poured off from the meat, and the 
 fat, if any, separated from it. 
 
 Note, that this method imparts a slight dose only of the 
 nutritive properties of beef to the water; but if we desire 
 a strong medicinal stimulant it must be made thus: 
 
 Boil one pound of lean beef, cut into small pieces, (the 
 part is not very material, that from the neck is usually 
 
 * The French are so strongly impressed with the necessity of 
 attention in every way to the sick that there has been lately 
 published at Paris a work by M. Morin, the author of the 
 Manuel d'Hygiene, quoted in page 205, and elsewhere in our 
 work, entitled Manuel de Gardes-Malades. 
 
MEDICINAL COOKERY. 423 
 
 employed) in three pints of water till it is reduced to about 
 i quart. The first scum, which arises during the boiling, 
 must be taken oft; but if it be skimmed continually during 
 the boiling, a considerable portion of its nutritive properties 
 will be removed. When the boiling is complete, strain the 
 whole of the liquor off, and, if there be time before it is 
 wanted, let it stand till it is cold, and take off all the fat; 
 or the fat must be removed while the liquor is hot. The 
 directions given in most of our cookery books to use only 
 the clear liquor is quite a mistake; the best and most nu¬ 
 tritious portion of it is the fine fibrin which settles to the 
 bottom. This last preparation ought to be called Decoction 
 of Beef. See C route au Pot, page 250. 
 
 Note, that when the stomach recoils from solid animal 
 ilfood, a strong decoction of beef, poured boiling hot on 
 some toasted bread, cut into dice, will make, if offered to 
 the patient in small quantity and delicately prepared, a 
 Ivariety that may prove very acceptable, care being taken 
 that it is seasoned with some simple condiment. 
 
 Or, a strong decoction of mutton may be poured upon 
 toasted bread in the same manner. 
 
 MUTTON BROTH, for the sick, should be made in 
 the same way as directed for beef tea above; it may be 
 : either made by infusion or decoction, accordingly as it may 
 be wanted weakly or strongly impregnated with the nu¬ 
 tritive properties of the mutton. It is usual in ordinary 
 mutton broth to flavour it with turnips ; but, for the sick, 
 the turnips had better be omitted; a little chopped parsley 
 is admissible. The condiments for the sick should be few 
 and simple. The fat of the broth should be carefully re¬ 
 moved. 
 
 VEAL BROTH should be made exactly as mutton broth. 
 As this broth is not so stimulant as that from beef or mutton, 
 it suits those patients who are gradually returning to the use 
 1 of animal food. 
 
 CHICKEN BROTH. As a chicken supplies animal 
 aliment of the least nutritious kind, its broth is sometimes 
 useful when the stomach cannot elaborate more stimulating 
 food, (see page 9, for boiling chicken,) but when it is 
 boiled for broth it should be first cut up, as for eating, and 
 then boiled half an hour or more, in order that most of its 
 
424 
 
 MEDICINAL COOKERY, PAP. 
 
 nutritive properties may be extracted. In preparing it for 
 broth it may be singed ; but it should not be dusted with 
 flour ; nor need it lie in milk and water as directed for boiled 
 chicken, page 9. The broth may be flavoured with parsley 
 and a little salt. If any fat float on it, it should be taken 
 off. 
 
 PORK BROTH and PORK JELLY have been occa¬ 
 sionally recommended for the sick in some of our cookeiy 
 books ; indeed, some of the Faculty have earnestly advo¬ 
 cated Pork Broth. See Maiuiyat’s Therapeutics. But! 
 we are not aware that, in any case, either of these de¬ 
 serves the attention of the sick or of their nurse.* 
 
 STARCH. We mention this article at the head of all 
 our Farinacea for the sick, persuaded that when the 
 prejudices of mankind shall, on this subject, be corrected, 
 pure starch will be the chief thing of which all gruels for 
 the sick will be composed. See Starch, page 199; 
 Potatoe Starch, page 215; and also forwards, page 426. 
 
 OAT GRUEL, or Water Gruel. This is generally 
 made with oatmeal; and for ordinary purposes sweet oat¬ 
 meal answers very well. But where gruel is desired very 
 delicate, whole groats, first carefully washed and then 
 bruised by the rolling pm, should be employed. Gruel 
 should always be strained through a hair sieve. See Oats, 
 page 209. The addition of currants (see page 253) to 
 gruel is by many desired ; and generally will not be found 
 an improper addition ; but sugar is not so good a condiment 
 for gruel as salt. 
 
 PAP FOR CHILDREN. Attend to what is said con¬ 
 cerning pap in page 205; and also to what is said con¬ 
 cerning Biscuits in page 299 and 300. Tops and bot¬ 
 toms are generally used for pap in London by having boiling 
 water poured on them, beating them into a pulp, and gently 
 boiling it for a short time, when a small quantity of sugar 
 is usually added to it. Or the Somersetshire biscuit, de- 
 
 * There is much truth in the observation of M. Morin concern¬ 
 ing Pork :— 
 
 “ Quoique generalement usitee, il ne en est pas moins vrai 
 qu’elle ne convient pas a beaucoup d’estomacs, et qu’il faut etre 
 habitue a des trauvaux rudes et penibles pour le digerer convena- 
 blement .”—Manuel d’Hygiene. 
 
MEDICINAL COOKERY. 
 
 425 
 
 scribed in page 300, may be employed. Or, in the absence 
 of both these articles, slices of well-fermented and well- 
 baked bread twenty-four hours old, without the crust, may 
 be well toasted, and made into a pap in a similar way to 
 that made with tops and bottoms. Or Rusks, which are 
 bread cakes cut into slices, and again baked or toasted, may 
 be employed. Or pure Starch may be also sometimes 
 usefully employed for the pap of children ; but it should 
 be made thick. 
 
 Note, that Flour for pap is bad, and must be invariably 
 avoided. 
 
 BARLEY WATER. Take of pearl barley two ounces, 
 of water four pints and a half. Wash away first from the 
 barley all foreign matters which adhere to it with cold wa¬ 
 ter. Then boil the barley in half a pint of the water for a 
 few minutes, and let the water be thrown away. Add the 
 remainder of the water boiling to the barley, and boil it 
 down to two pints, and strain. Phar. Lond. See below, 
 Barley Gruel. 
 
 Note, that it sometimes happens sick persons, as well 
 for variety as for nutrition, require barley water considerably 
 thicker than the above quantity will make it. In this case, 
 the quantity of barley should be considerably increased, 
 when the liquor is more fitly named Barley Gruel. 
 
 BARLEY GRUEL may be, however, made in a much 
 more expeditious way by simply dissolving prepared barley 
 (see page 208) in boiling water. Indeed some persons pre¬ 
 pare barley water by merely boiling a little prepared barley 
 in water. In this case all the saccharine matter of the 
 barley is combined with the water ; in the process directed 
 by the London College above, some of the sugar is, of 
 :ourse, if not all, abstracted. See Barley, page 208. 
 
 POTATOE STARCH. The method of obtaining this 
 irticle is described in page 215. It may be used instead of 
 irrow root, and in precisely the same way. It forms with 
 water a wholesome mucilage, and is, on many occasions, 
 i pleasant variety for the sick. It may be flavoured with 
 spice, brandy, or wine, if either of these be admissible. 
 
 SALEP or Saloop is the root of the orchis morio, a 
 
 )lant native of Turkev and other Eastern countries. It is in 
 •> 
 
 ;l)val pieces of a yellowish white colour, and somewhat clear 
 
426 
 
 MEDICINAL COOKERY. 
 
 and pellucid. When reduced to poivcler, which it is with 
 difficulty, it readily dissolves in boiling water, with which 
 a small quantity of it forms a nutricious jelly. It consists 
 chiefly of starch. It is said that salep may be prepared 
 from many other species of the orchis tribe. This root 
 constitutes a considerable portion of the diet of the inhabi¬ 
 tant of Turkey, Syria, and Persia. Its mucilaginous qua¬ 
 lities render it desirable in many diseases. 
 
 ARROW ROOT. This may be made into a gruel or 
 jelly more or less thick by simply boiling it in water. It 
 may be flavoured with various condiments to the palate of 
 the patient; but it should be generally known that it is in 
 no respect different from the starch obtained from many 
 other vegetables.* See Starch, page 199. 
 
 TAPIOCA f is prepared by being first carefully washed 
 in water, and boiled in that fluid till all the lumps become 
 transparent; but they need not be boiled till they are re¬ 
 duced to a uniform jelly unless the patient should desire it. 
 It may be mixed with any agreeable condiment ; wine, or 
 brandy, when admissible, is perhaps the best; sugar should 
 be employed sparingly if at all. 
 
 * ARROW ROOT is obtained chiefly from the root of the 
 maranta arundinacea, a pei'ennial plant, growing about two feet 
 high, with broad-pointed and somewhat hairy leaves; it is now 
 cultivated in both the Indies. It is said, Mag. of Nat. Hist. vol. 
 v. page 96, that the farina of the roots of various plants supply 
 the arrow root of commerce ; that at Tahiti and other of the Poly¬ 
 nesian Islands, it is obtained from the root of the tacca pinnatifida, 
 called pin by the natives. It is sometimes mixed by the mission¬ 
 aries at Tahiti with wheat flour for bread, and for which purpose 
 it is said to be excellent. See the next note under Tapioca. 
 
 t Tapioca is chiefly, if not entirely, starch reduced by some pro¬ 
 cess to a sort of dried gum or mucilage. It is obtained from the 
 roots of the Cassava or Jatroplia manihot, a South American shrub, 
 about three feet high, with broad, shining, somewhat hand-shaped 
 leaves, and beautiful white and rose-coloured flowers. It is said 
 that every part of this plant, when raw, is poisonous, but that its 
 poisonous quality is destroyed by heat. Yet the starch from even 
 poisonous plants, when quite separated from their other parts, 
 does not partake of their noxious qualities. The root of the tacca 
 pinnatifida, mentioned in the note under arrow root, has acrid pro¬ 
 perties, yet the arrow root obtained from it does not partake of 
 them ; man, like the bee, “ From poisonous herbs extracts the 
 healing dew.”— Pope. 
 
MEDICINAL COOKERY. 
 
 427 
 
 SAGO * is prepared in the same manner as tapioca ; but 
 it should be first boiled for a short time in some water to 
 Like tapioca it need not be boiled till it becomes 
 
 cleanse it. 
 
 a uniform jelly, provided the lumps are somewhat transpa¬ 
 rent. It forms, as well as arrow root and tapioca, an agree- 
 
 ible variety of aliment for the sick when neither solid vege¬ 
 table nor any animal food is admissible. It may be mixed 
 with any pleasant condiment, wine or brandy, when ad- 
 piissible, sugar sparingly. Sometimes perhaps the squeeze 
 ?f a lemon. See Sago Pudding, page 255. 
 
 PANADA is literally bread immersed in boiling water 
 so as to become soft and pulpy; or which, after boiling for 
 a few minutes, may be beaten into a pulp. There is no end 
 :o the fancy in preparing such a simple dish as this ought 
 o be for the sick. Some, we find, make panada by first 
 oiling the bread (which ought to he twenty-four hours old 
 it least) with spices, &c. then pressing out all the water, 
 l mixing the bread with milk, butter, and sugar to the 
 taste. This is, in fact, a sort of bread pudding. 
 
 Others boil (preposterous !) wine, sugar, nutmeg, &c. 
 with crumbs of bread till they are reduced to a pap. 
 
 The object in making panada ought to be to supply as 
 much as possible bread in its simplest and purest form, 
 and to render it most suitable to the stomach by some sim¬ 
 ple, if any, condiment. The best way to effectuate this 
 ,vill be to cut the crumb of bread into dice, and pour boiling 
 water upon it; after it has stood a few minutes, let the 
 water be strained off, and the crumb pressed, to which add 
 boilina: water sufficient to make it of tbe desired consistence 
 
 O # , 
 
 either for being drunk, or for being eaten with a 3poon. 
 A squeeze of lemon might sometimes he preferred in it; 
 but the fewer condiments the better. 
 
 Note, that good and well-baked and fermented biscuits, 
 without butter, or tops and bottoms will make good panada. 
 
 * Sngo, as mentioned in page 255, is a granulated substance 
 obtained from the pith of several species ot palm tree, which are 
 cut down and split for the purpose of obtaining it. Some say that 
 it is obtained chiefly, but this is questionable, from the cycas circi- 
 talis, or broad-leaved cycas, a kind of palm, a native of the East 
 Indies, whence most, if not all, of the sago of commerce is brought. 
 See Mag. of Nat. Hist. vol. i. page 165. 
 
MEDICINAL COOKERY. 
 
 428 
 
 CAUDLE is nothing more than some kind of gruel, 
 usually of oat-meal or groats, mixed with spices, wine, &c. 
 
 It is generally considered a necessary part of the food of a 
 lying-in woman ; but it is more often, we believe, consumed 
 by the gossips, who like to sip of such exhilarating stimu¬ 
 lants, which are generally made more agreeable than whole¬ 
 some. 
 
 TOAST AND WATER. We may observe here, once fr 
 for all, that many persons both sick and well have a great 
 abhorrence of cold water. This, for the most part, is a t : 1 
 very mistaken prejudice. For the quenching of thirst in ' 
 almost all states of both health and disease, nothing is in 
 general so beneficial as water. The only care necessary to U 
 be observed in drinking it is, that it be not taken very cold, ' 
 particularly when the body is very hot. We have known 1 
 in children predisposed to ague, a fit of that complaint s 
 brought on by drinking cold water, or by exposure for a 
 short time to a cold air. In this case, draughts of even- 
 hot water may be advantageously given. If, however, you 
 desire to remove the extreme coldness of water, a slice of 
 well-toasted, or even slightly burnt bread plunged into the 
 jug containing it will generally make the water sufficiently 
 warm to be drunk. We have no other faith in toast and water. 
 
 If, however, the jlavour of toasted bread in the water 
 be desired, it ought to be put into the water for two or 
 three hours before it is rvanted. And here, perhaps, it 
 will be most advisable to pour some water upon the toasted 
 bread, and let it remain on it a few minutes to abstract the 
 saline particles which are in it before it is put into the 
 water which is to be drunk, and so long suffered to remain 
 there. 
 
 Note, that we shall say something concerning the purity 
 of water in the Introduction. 
 
 IMPERIAL consists of cream of tartar dissolved in 
 water, flavoured with lemon-peel and its juice. The water 
 is usually poured on the ingredients boiling hot, covered 
 closely, and when cold sweetened with lump sugar. The 
 dose of the cream of tartar may be about one ounce to every 
 gallon of water ; the rest of the ingredients at your plea¬ 
 sure. Some will add to them rum; but we advise nothing 
 of the kind. 
 

 
 MEDICINAL COOKERY. 429 
 
 Note, that this is a sort of namby pamby liquor, of very 
 ittle importance any way. 
 
 POSSETS, of various kinds, are described in most of 
 >ur old Cookery Books; but the good sense of the present 
 ige has nearly discarded them: they usually consisted of 
 ;ggs, wine, and sugar, with other condiments; many of 
 hem contained milk and some ale. We have no know- 
 edge of any one of them that has been medicinally em¬ 
 ployed with advantage, except treacle posset; and this 
 irose from a case of a young lad who had been accidentally 
 lalivated by wearing a mercurial girdle for the itch. His 
 nouth was in such a horrible state of ulceration that he 
 :ould take nothing, and scarcely articulate, for nearly a 
 nonth, but the curd formed by mixing treacle with scalded 
 inilk. The whey formed by the coagulation of the milk is 
 iometimes recommended by our Lady Bountifuls, as a draught 
 it night to promote perspiration in catarrhs, &c. 
 
 SACK WHEY, that is, a whey made by pouring some 
 rood wine, as sherry or Madeira, into milk made scalding 
 pot; the curds are rejected, and the whey employed as the 
 vhey obtained in making treacle posset for a draught at 
 light to promote perspiration. But much better methods 
 than these are now within the circle of medicinal know- 
 edge. 
 
 MULLED WINE.—Put some grated nutmeg or cloves 
 ind sugar to any good wine, such as port or sherry. Set 
 t over the fire in a closely covered saucepan, and let it 
 remain there till it boils, and for a few minutes afterwards, 
 when it must be removed from the fire. It may be served 
 up with slices of toasted bread. Some direct the yolks of 
 pggs to be mixed with the wine ; but they will prove 
 abominations; even the sugar is not a desirable addition; 
 doves are, we believe, better than nutmeg.—See Cloves, 
 lage 187. 
 
 CHAMOMILE TEA. Fill a teapot with chamomile 
 flowers, and pour boiling water, so as to fill the pot, over 
 them. Let it stand for an hour or more. 
 
 Note, that this is an excellent bitter infusion for those 
 with whom bitters agree and whose digestion is impaired; 
 some will add a few cloves to it. A teacupful may be 
 taken twice a day.—See under Brewing, page 389. 
 
430 
 
 -•< 
 
 MEDICINAL COOKERY. 
 
 LEMONADE consists of lemon juice, water, and sugar; 
 sometimes, however, where the acid only is desirable, the 
 sugar is omitted; and generally where lemonade is given to the 
 sick for the quenching of thirst in particular, it is best without 
 the sugar. Lemonade is sometimes made with the crystal¬ 
 lized acid of lemon * and a little essence of lemon, made 
 by digesting the outside grated peel of the fresh lemon in 
 rectified spirit of wine, in the proportion of two ounces ol 
 the peel to a pint of the spirit, for ten days, and straining; 
 or by dissolving one drachm of the best essence of lemon, 
 which can be obtained in the shops, in two ounces of recti¬ 
 fied spirit of wine. Either of these will impart the flavour 
 of the lemon to the mixture; they should be added either 
 to simple syrup or capillaire, (see pages 221 and 222,) ani 
 then be diluted with water, according to the pleasure of the 
 patient, adding of course the acid. But we believe that, 
 notwithstanding 1 we here describe the more artificial lemon- 
 ades, that made with the juice of the lemon and water, 
 with the addition sometimes of sugar, is by far the best. 
 
 One ounce of lemon juice will make, with five ounces of 
 w r ater, an agreeable lemonade, which, when taken as a 
 summer beverage, with the addition of a little sugar, and 
 one ounce by measure of English gin, will be found equal, 
 if not superior, to most of the cyder to be obtained in 
 London, more especially if a few grains of carbonate of 
 potash or soda be added to it, so as to disengage some 
 carbonic acid; but the alkali ought not to be in sufficient 
 quantity to neutralize all the acid of the lemon, or the 
 liquor will be mawkish. 
 
 Of SODA WATER, (which is water impregnated with 
 a small dose of carbonate of soda, and a large dose besides 
 of carbonic acid,) now so commonly drunk in London and 
 elsewhere, we have very little to say in commendation. 
 
 * Crystallized acid of lemon is directed to be prepared in a cer¬ 
 tain manner by the London College of Physicians in their Phar. 
 Lond. But it is not a process which the cook will be very likely 
 to adopt. Those who desire more information concerning it may 
 consult the work referred to, or our Family Cyclopaedia, articles 
 Citric Acid and Lemon Juice. One ounce of the crystallized 
 acid dissolved in a pint of water is considered nearly equal to the 
 strength of the acid in lemon juice. 
 
MEDICINAL COOKERY. 
 
 431 
 
 Dr. Paris, in the article Dietetics in the Cyclopcedia of 
 Practical Medicine , says, that “ the modem custom of 
 kinking soda water during, or immediately after dinner, 
 aas been a pregnant source of dyspepsia. By inflating the 
 stomach at such a period we inevitably counteract those 
 jnuscular contractions which are essential to chymification.” 
 
 A SALINE DRAUGHT may be made at any time 
 vith a few grains of carbonate of soda, or of carbonate of 
 potash, (see page 368,) ten or fifteen of either, half an 
 >unce of lemon juice, and two ounces of water. It may be 
 Irunk during the effervescence, and will be found a cooling 
 tnd grateful draught, taken occasionally, where there is a 
 lisposition to dyspepsia, but it should not be taken just 
 •efore, at, or soon after, any meal. See a note under 
 »ur article Baking of Bread, page 368. 
 
 I For Essence of Peppermint, Peppermint Water, 
 aid several other distilled waters, as well as spirits, 
 ee our section on Distillation. 
 
 For Essence of Ginger, see page 189. 
 
 -Cayenne Pepper, seepage 189. 
 
 — Syrups, see pages 321, 322. 
 
 — Acetic Acid, for fumigating apartments, see page 
 
 | 36 . 
 
 — Milk of Almonds, see page 311. 
 
 — Dry Toast, see page 206. 
 
 — Spirit of Wine and Camphor, see page413. 
 
 — Croute au Pot, see page 250, a preparation of 
 ery considerable importance to persons labouring under 
 arious complaints attended with dyspepsia. 
 
 ROASTED APPLES. Apples for the sick are some- 
 imes very agreeable, if properly prepared. They should 
 lways be chosen of the more acid kind, and good boilers ; 
 he russet coat is one of the best. The best way of roasting 
 hem is to roll them up in some soft writing or other paper, 
 nd set them on the hob of the fire-place, where they soon 
 cquire, being occasionally turned, the proper degree of 
 oftness : the pulp may be easily separated wfith a spoon ; it 
 5 very useful for the allaying of thirst. Or a decoction of 
 he apple may be made in water; it is usually called apple 
 'ea. The apples should be pared, cored, and quartered 
 
432 
 
 MEDICINAL COOKERY. 
 
 before being set to boil. Here, also, acidulous apples should 
 be chosen. 
 
 TOASTED FIGS. Cut large figs into strips about 
 half an inch wide, and toast the inside part brown before 
 the fire. This is an excellent application to swelled gums; 
 the toasted part must be laid upon the gum, and renewed 
 from time to time. It appears to act similarly to a digestive 
 poultice. It frequently gives considerable pain, a proof 
 that it is being effectual. 
 
 POULTICES are made in various ways; for a Yeast 
 Poultice, see under Yeast, page 375. 
 
 A POULTICE OF BREAD AND MILK is made 
 by simply scalding- crumb of bread in milk sufficient to 
 make a soft paste, to which should be added, to keep it 
 supple, a little olive oil or lard. 
 
 A POULTICE OF LINSEED MEAL is generally 
 made by scalding the meal in water. If the meal be made 
 with ground linseed no oil need be added to it; but if with 
 powdered linseed oil cake, as it generally is, the addition 
 of a little linseed or other oil is desirable. 
 
 A BREAD AND WATER POULTICE requires no 
 directions for being made, after what is said concerning 
 bread and milk poultice. 
 
 A POULTICE OF BREAD OR LINSEED MEAL, 
 WITH BEER GROUNDS, or with very stale or even 
 acid strong beer, is excellent to excite the action and pro¬ 
 mote the production of pus in hard and indolent swellings. 
 It is made by scalding the bread or meal in the beer-grounds 
 or beer. A little oil or lard may be added to the poultice 
 to keep it supple. 
 
 The stimulating Poultice of Vinegar, with bread or 
 linseed meal, and a little oil or lard, may be made in the 
 same manner as the preceding. A Mustard Poultice 
 is made by simply scalding flour of mustard in boiling 
 water. It is sometimes an excellent application where 
 there is a temporary loss of feeling in the extremities, 
 such as the hand, fingers, &c. 
 
 AN INFUSION OF LINSEED* is made by pouring 
 
 * Linseed is almost too well known to need being described. It is the 
 seed of theLinum usitatissimum or Flax, an annual plan! cultivated 
 
MEDICINAL COOKERY. 
 
 433 
 
 on one ounce of bruised linseed two pints of boiling water, 
 and macerating it for four hours near the fire. The London 
 College orders, in addition, half an ounce of bruised liquor¬ 
 ice root. The mucilage of linseed thus abstracted, or 
 made much stronger by a larger addition of the seed, 
 is a useful demulcent in some complaints of the urinary 
 passages. 
 
 I A MUCILAGE OF GUM ARABIC is made with 
 four ounces of bruised gum arabic and half a pint of boil- 
 
 S ing water, gradually added to and rubbed with the gum till 
 it becomes a mucilage. Pliar. Land. 
 
 Note , that, in order to constitute a mucilaginous drink, 
 one-fourth of the quantity of gum will be sufficient. 
 
 A MUCILAGE OF STARCH is made by mixing 
 three drachms of starch rubbed into powder, with a pint of 
 w'ater, and boiled till they become a mucilage. 
 
 Note, that both the preceding mucilages are nutricious 
 demulcents, and may be taken at pleasure. 
 
 PURGATIVES, called, in medical language, Cathar- 
 ; tics, are of various kinds; but those which will be most 
 likely to come under the cognizance of the cook and the 
 nurse are the following : 
 
 CASTOR OIL is obtained from the seeds of the 
 t ricinis communis, an annual plant, native of both the 
 
 j Indies. The oil is obtained by bruising and then boiling 
 ; the seeds in water; but the best oil is that which is ob¬ 
 tained by expression without heat, called cold drawn. 
 Half an ounce of this oil is a dose; it is best given by 
 being poured into a wine glass half full of peppermint 
 water, so that the oil does not touch the sides, and thus the 
 whole may be taken at a draught. Some prefer beating 
 the oil up with sugar, the yolk of an egg, and a little 
 j water into an emulsion. 
 
 EPSOM SALTS, or Sulphate of Magnesia, is a 
 
 in various parts of Great Britain, and other places in Europe. 
 The bark of flax constitutes the important material of our cloth¬ 
 ing, which when made into cloth we call linen. The seeds afford 
 a very valuable oil for the painter; and a nutricious mucilage as 
 above; the cakes left after the expression of the oil are employed 
 in fattening oxen. Flax is now found growing wild in many 
 ^places of this country; but the place of its original growth is not 
 ■ known; some suppose Egypt. 
 
434 
 
 MEDICINAL COOKERY. 
 
 ivell known purgative, obtained formerly from the medi¬ 
 cinal water at Epsom, but now from the water left after 
 the crystallization of common salt from sea-water. Its 
 dose for a purge is usually one ounce, dissolved in two or 
 more ounces of water, or in gruel; but it is sometimes 
 given in doses of a quarter of an ounce or less, and con¬ 
 tinued daily, or every other day, for some time, where con¬ 
 tinued relaxation of the bowels is desirable. This salt is at 
 present a much more fashionable aperient than 
 
 GLAUBER’S SALT, or Sulphate of Soda, which 
 is the purified and crystallized salt that remains after the 
 distillation of muriatic acid. Its general dose is also one 
 ounce dissolved in water. If taken in a dried or efflorescent 
 state, its dose should be one-half that of the crystallized salt. 
 See Glauber’s Salt, in the Family Cyclopaedia. 
 
 COMPOUND EXTRACT OF COLOCYNTH PILLS. 
 Take of compound extract of colocynth two drachms; 
 of Castile soap in powder one drachm; beat them together 
 into a mass, and divide it into thirty-six pills, of which one 
 or two must be taken occasionally at bed-time. Note, that 
 these will be found excellent aperient pills for those who are 
 troubled with costiveness : we have prescribed them upon 
 innumerable occasions. 
 
 CALOMEL PILLS. It sometimes happens from pecu¬ 
 liarity of constitution, or from some other causes, that the 
 above pills do not act with sufficient energy. In such case 
 an addition of one grain of calomel to each pill (and in 
 this case one pill will be generally enough for a dose) will 
 obviate the inconvenience, and prove in other respects very 
 beneficial. They must thus be made: take of compound 
 extract of colocynth two drachms; of Castile soap one 
 drachm; of calomel thirty-six grains; beat the whole into 
 a mass, and divide them into thirty-six pills. 
 
 It may possibly be deemed invidious to select particular 
 druggists for the preparation of both the preceding forms for 
 pills; or for supplying the medicines to make them ; but 
 having had a long experience of the compound extract of 
 colocynth, &c. sold by Messrs. Corbyn & Co. of Hol- 
 born, as w 7 ell as by Messrs. James Curtis & Co. of Old 
 Fish-Street, we refer the reader to either of those houses to 
 obtain them. 
 
MEDICINAL COOKERY. 
 
 435 
 
 Note, that calomel being' a mercurial, care should be 
 taken that the body is not exposed to great changes of tem¬ 
 perature, and particularly to cold and damp during the 
 operation of these pills. 
 
 PURGATIVES FOR CHILDREN may be either 
 senna, rhubarb, or magnesia. Other cathartics than these 
 are, it is true, often ordered by the experienced medical 
 
 attendant, among these jalap and calomel are sometimes 
 given with advantage, in worm cases in particular; but the 
 domestic prescriber would do well not to meddle with such 
 keen-edged tools, particularly when they are employed on 
 the delicate health of children. 
 
 Senna may be given to children in a decoction sweetened 
 with sugar; it is difficult to define a dose of this to suit 
 every age ; but, to a child a year old, of a decoction made 
 with one drachm of senna boiled in four ounces of water 
 down to two, a dessert-spoonful may be given. Sometimes 
 a few raisins boiled in it will tempt the child to take it 
 more readily. 
 
 Where very young children are troubled with green and 
 loose motions, a tea-spoonful of magnesia mixed with milk 
 and a little sugar may be advantageously given. And 
 sometimes a mixture of ten grains of rhubarb and as many 
 of magnesia made by pouring a little boiling water on them, 
 and sweetened with sugar, will have a very good effect in 
 correcting the unpleasant condition of the bowels of 
 children. 
 
 And sometimes where costiveness is the chief symptom, 
 a tea-spoonful of castor oil mixed with a little sugar will 
 
 remove it. 
 
 The restlessness and irritability of children will be 
 more effectually removed by such simple means as the 
 preceding than by opiates of any kind; and more especially 
 than by the use of Godfrey's Cordial or Dalby's Car¬ 
 minative. 
 
 Warm bathing is, particularly in a hot and very fe¬ 
 verish state of the skin, one of the most valuable assistants 
 in promoting comfortable perspiration and to allay the rest¬ 
 lessness of children. In teething in particular, in addition 
 to opening the bowels, it is of great importance. 
 
 Of BRANDY, as a powerful stimulant when employed 
 
 u 2 
 
MEDICINAL COOKERY. 
 
 436 
 
 medicinally, a few words may be here useful. In all cases 
 where there is much fever and a strong pulse, brandy is 
 generally a mischievous medicine ; but in cases of debility, 
 and where the pulse is weak and the vital powers generally 
 at a low ebb, brandy, given discreetly, is an excellent 
 medicine. It is best given by soaking biscuits or tops and 
 bottoms in it; the biscuits being broken into pieces, and 
 the patient supplied with a tea-spoonful of them now and 
 then: in such cases it must of course be given often to 
 be effectual; but no sugar or other condiment should be 
 given with it. In some cases of vomiting, where no 
 inflammation is present, it is of great value. 
 
 Of LAUDANUM, a preparation of opium,* as a 
 medicine for relieving pain, we ought, perhaps, to say that 
 in moderate doses, that is, of from fifteen to thirty drops 
 at most, its efficacy is sometimes great. But the habitual 
 use of it must, by all means, be avoided. It stupifies the 
 mind, renders the bowels costive and inactive; and if the 
 patient becomes a sot to it, he is a blank in society, and 
 as useless as a drunkard. 
 
 There is one other opiate which has lately come into use 
 that we ought also to mention; it is beyond question far 
 superior to laudanum in relieving many distressing spas¬ 
 modic affections; we have known much benefit derived 
 from it in asthma; in some scirrhous affections attended 
 with much pain, it has rendered the patients very com¬ 
 fortable, and obtained for them sweet repose. This 
 medicine is prepared only by Mr. Battley, a druggist 
 
 * Opium, as we have said, (page 201,) is the inspissated milky 
 juice obtained by incisions from the green heads of the single 
 white poppy, papaver somniferum , an annual plant now naturalized 
 in this country, but originally a native of, it is believed, Asia, 
 where, as well as in Turkey, opium is produced from it in the 
 greatest abundance and perfection. Most of the opium used here 
 is imported either from Turkey or the East Indies ; but the white 
 poppy has been lately much cultivated, and with some success, 
 for opium in this country. The oil from the seeds, which are 
 similar in taste to nuts and very nutritive, is used, it is said, in 
 many instances instead of olive oil. Opium is a very useful and 
 powerful medicine, one grain of which in its crude state is 
 considered a full dose ; but if taken in larger quantity, it is often 
 a deadly poison. See Poisons forwards. The Turks, never¬ 
 theless, chew it! Such is the omnipotence of habit. 
 
MEDICINAL COOKERY. 
 
 437 
 
 1 
 
 
 in Fore-street, London; he calls it Liquor opii seda- 
 tivus. It is given in very small doses; six or eight 
 drops of it will often have the desired effect. It does not, 
 in general, constipate the bowels like other opiates. We 
 affirm that it is the best medicine for the alleviation of pain 
 with which we are acquainted. But the reader must not 
 forget that it is a very powerful one; and that it must be, 
 therefore, administered with extreme caution. It may 
 be taken in water. 
 
 LINIMENT OF AMMONIA, called formerly Vola¬ 
 tile Liniment. Take of solution of ammonia one 
 ounce; of olive oil* two ounces; shake them together till 
 
 * Olive oil has been mentioned in pages 71 and 201. The olive 
 whence it is obtained is the fruit of the olca Europcea, or European 
 I olive, an evergreen tree, with leaves like the willow, native of 
 the south of Europe and the north of Africa ; but it is cultivated 
 abundantly in numerous places bordering upon the Mediterranean. 
 It is also occasionally grown in England, but its fruit does not 
 ripen here. It grows readily by cuttings, or may be grafted on 
 the privet. The unripe fruit is brought to this country pickled in a 
 green state, and by some is esteemed as a condiment; but it is not a 
 very wholesome one. There are several varieties of the olive. 
 The fruit is a sort of plum, of an oval shape and of a violet colour 
 when ripe, about three-fourths of an inch long and half an inch in 
 diameter; whitish and fleshy within, of a bitter taste, but containing 
 a bland oil, which is obtained by bruising the fruit in a mill, so 
 as not to crush the stones. There are several kinds of oil found 
 in the shops ; the best is that called Florence, or Lucca oil; an 
 inferior kind called Genoa, or second oil, which, when fresh and 
 sweet, is very good, and for ointments, &c. is usually employed. 
 The worst is that called Gallipoli, which smells strong, and is 
 used chiefly by the clothiers. Olive oil is very valuable, both as 
 food and as a medicine. It is given in some cases of poisons ; 
 see Poisons forwards ; and it is used in many liniments, cerates, 
 and ointments. In places subject to the plague, the body is often 
 rubbed all over with olive oil, to prevent infection. Olive oil, 
 when combined with soda, makes an excellent soap. Castile soap 
 is such a soap, combined with a portion of iron to give it the 
 marbled appearance. 
 
 We may just mention that a friend of ours brought, in December 
 1830, from Nice to this country, in his private carriage, a wild 
 orange-tree, on which were engrafted an olive and a jessamine. 
 The jessamine was in blossom, and the olive and orange both 
 looked well; but the winter was severe, and affected them a good 
 deal. They, however, recovered and continued to thrive, being 
 kept during the winter in a house moderately warm. The olive 
 is now (July 1833) particularly thriving; but the jessamine was 
 
438 
 
 MEDICINAL COOKERY. 
 
 they unite. It may be made at any time more mild by the 
 addition of more oil. 
 
 Note, that this is an excellent application upon flannel 
 to the throat when in an inflammatory state; it may be 
 also rubbed on the skin over any part affected with rheumatic 
 pains. Indeed, it may supply the place of the well-known 
 soap liniment or opodeldoc, for which see our Family 
 Cyclopedia, article Liniment. 
 
 It is also very useful in various indolent swellings of 
 horses and cattle, particularly to cows’ udders. 
 
 POMADE DIVINE. Take of beef marrow thirty-six 
 ounces; of rose water three ounces; of gum benzoin 
 bruised, storax, and orrice-root, of each one ounce and a 
 half; of nutmegs bruised one drachm and a half; of oil 
 of cassia twenty drops; of oil of cloves forty drops. 
 Break the marrow into small pieces, and let it soak in 
 three pints of water for six days, changing the water 
 every day; or boil the marrow in water, so as to deprive 
 it of its blood and membranes : then strain off the marrow 
 and water together, and let the marrow remain with it till 
 it cools into a cake. Mix now the marrow with the rose¬ 
 water and the benzoin, orrice-root and nutmegs, and boil 
 the whole together in a water-bath in a vessel well stopped. 
 In about three or four hours let the pomade be strained off 
 through a coarse linen cloth, and add to it the essential 
 oils. 
 
 Note, that this is a useful application to sore nipples, 
 chapped lips, and other similar sores. 
 
 POMATUM consists of lard, rose-water, and some 
 aromatic oil, such as essence of lemon or bergamotte: the 
 lard should be melted, and poured into a vessel which 
 will hold considerably more than the quantity which is 
 wanted; add to the melted lard the rose-water in the pro¬ 
 portion of two ounces to each pound of lard. Beat the 
 rose-water and lard well together with a wisp such as is 
 used by clothiers, till it begins to grow cold, when the 
 scent is to be added; a drachm to a pound of lard will be 
 scent enough. Some will add a mixture of essence of 
 
 a few weeks ago torn off the orange stock by a tempestuous wind. 
 This plant was considered a great curiosity : it was kept at a 
 nursery in the Kent-road. 
 
MEDICINAL COOKERY. 439 
 
 lemon, bergamotte, oil of lavender, and essence of am- 
 j bergris. 
 
 BLISTER PLASTER. Take of yellow wax three 
 ounces and a half; of yellow resin and Burgundy pitch, 
 each two ounces ; horse turpentine, five ounces; Spanish 
 flies in powder, four ounces. Melt first the resin, next 
 the wax in the resin, and then the Burgundy pitch, to 
 which add the horse turpentine ; remove the mixture from 
 the fire, and when it is a little cooled, sprinkle in the 
 Spanish flies, and stir the whole till it is cold. 
 
 BLISTER PLASTERS should be spread upon leather, 
 if possible without using any heat. It is desirable to place 
 round them a margin, about a quarter of an inch wide, of 
 wax plaster or other adhesive substance, the better to 
 insure their sticking, and they should be adapted in size 
 and shape to the part to which they are intended to be ap¬ 
 plied. A blister behind the ears requires the greatest 
 nicety in adapting it to the part. 
 
 Note , that when the blister is placed upon the part, it 
 ought to be covered over carefully with flannel in order that 
 its rising may be more effectually accomplished. When it 
 has properly risen, (and, if large, it will take some hours to 
 rise,) it should be snipped in one or two of the most de¬ 
 pending places, so that the lymph collected may run out; 
 this is best received on linen cloths. After which the skin 
 must not be taken off, but may be gently pressed with a 
 | cloth to evacuate all the water. If it be desired to be healed 
 immediately, a plaster of spermaceti cerate may be applied. 
 But if it be desired to be kept open for a few days, or con¬ 
 verted into what is called a perpetual blister, a plaster of 
 savin cerate or blistering fly ointment, will be necessary. 
 Savin cerate is considered the best for such purpose. The 
 white crust on the sore should be occasionally removed. 
 
 To allay the itching of blistered surfaces when healing, 
 the best remedy is calamine cerate rubbed with the fingers 
 all over the part. 
 
 For more concerning Blisters, see our Family Cyclo¬ 
 paedia, article Blister. 
 
 CLYSTERS, or QJLISTERS, are well known as li¬ 
 quids introduced into the intestines by the rectum, in order 
 to evacuate the contents of the lower bowels in particular. 
 
440 
 
 MEDICINAL COOKERY. 
 
 They are administered in a variety of complaints, chiefly to 
 evacuate the contents of the belly in obstinate costiveness. 
 They are also sometimes employed to give to persons un¬ 
 able to swallow ordinary food, nutricious aliment, so that 
 life may be thus supported for a long time. 
 
 A compound decoction of mallows, as a vehicle for the 
 more active ingredients of a clyster, is ordered by the 
 London College of Physicians to be prepared thus: Take 
 of common mallow leaves dried, one ounce ; of chamomile 
 flowers, half an ounce ; water, a pint; boil for a quarter of 
 an hour, and strain. 
 
 A laxative clyster may be made with half a pint of the 
 above decoction, or of barley-water or gruel, or of mutton 
 broth, in which may be dissolved one ounce of Glauber’s 
 or Epsom salts; or with which may be mixed one ounce of 
 castor oil: this last, with mutton broth, is, perhaps, the 
 best for obstinate constipation. 
 
 Clysters should be administered when at about the tem¬ 
 perature of the human body; that is, between the 80th 
 and 96th degree of Farenheit’s thermometer; or, as it is 
 more commonly called, blood-iuarm. The quantity for a 
 clyster for adults is from half a pint to a pint; for chil¬ 
 dren, according to their age—from two or three spoonsful 
 to half a pint. 
 
 APPARATUS FOR CLYSTERS are of various kinds. 
 One has been lately invented, and is sold in London, by 
 which the patient can administer the clyster to himself. 
 Another, and a very convenient and useful one, consists of 
 a large bottle of Indian-rubber, having a moveable clyster- 
 pipe screwed into a brass collar. The commonest apparatus 
 is that consisting of a bladder and a clyster-pipe adapted to 
 it thus : the bladder may either be that of a pig, an ox, or 
 a calf; to the neck of which the ivory pipe is attached by a 
 packthread. Into the orifice of the pipe within the bladder 
 (the bottom of which must be cut a little open,) is fixed a 
 cork, having a small twine attached to it in such a way 
 that when the apparatus is properly adjusted in the rectum, 
 the cork may be withdrawn and the clyster be gradually 
 pressed up by the assistant till the whole is lodged within 
 the intestines. Although this is, in fact, a very simple 
 operation, there is a tenderness and delicacy required in it 
 
MEDICINAL COOKERY. 
 
 441 
 
 II 
 
 ■ that ought to be attained by every attendant on a sick 
 person; and more especially is this required should the 
 patient be a female. 
 
 Besides these several methods, syringes have been em¬ 
 ployed for the administration of clysters; indeed, the 
 apparatus for the seZ/-administration of a clyster consists 
 essentially of a Syringe. 
 
 THE GREEN OINTMENT OF ELDER (which 
 has been long expunged from our Pharmacopoeias, being 
 considered as nothing better, if so good, as hogs’ lard,) is 
 made by boiling equal weights of lard and bruised elder- 
 leaves till they are crisp, and then straining and strongly 
 i pressing out the ointment. 
 
 ELDER-FLOWER OINTMENT is still retained by 
 the London College, and thus directed to be made: Take 
 of elder-flowers and of lard, of each two pounds ; boil them 
 together till the flowers are crisp, and strain. 
 
 Note, that, except for the smell, we do not know that 
 this ointment is even equal to lard as an emollient. 
 
 THE JUICE OF RIPE ELDER BERRIES rubbed a 
 few times upon warts, which sometimes infest the hands, and 
 being suffered to dry upon them, the hands being previously 
 bathed in warm water, will in general remove them. The 
 juice should be applied as minutely as possible in and 
 around every wart. 
 
 We do not give forms for making either Yellow Basilicon, 
 or Turner’s Cerate, that is, Calamine Ointment, because 
 almost every body knows how to make them. If, however, 
 any one be desirous of knowing the composition of these, 
 our Family Cyclopaedia may be consulted. 
 
 CHILBLAINS, if unbroken, are best alleviated by 
 bathing them in oil of turpentine or spirits of wine and 
 camphor. If broken, the best application will be, in slight 
 cases, calamine cerate; if severe, an ointment made of 
 one ounce of yellow basilicon and one drachm of red pre¬ 
 cipitate, well mixed together, and applied on lint or linen 
 rag: the part should be kept moderately warm. 
 
 Note , that chilblains are generally produced by ex¬ 
 posing the hands or feet to sudden heat when they are very 
 cold; and, therefore, in order to avoid them, instead of 
 bringing the cold hands or cold feet to the fire, they ought 
 
 u 3 
 
442 
 
 MEDICINAL COOKERY. 
 
 to be rubbed with a cloth or washed in cold water, so that 
 warmth may be gradually imparted to them. 
 
 CHOPPED HANDS are often produced by bringing 
 them when cold suddenly to the fire, or by plunging them 
 into hot water to wash them. Both these conditions should 
 be avoided. The hands should be always washed in cold 
 water ; and they should be prevented, if possible, from 
 becoming very cold by gloves. Exposing them suddenly 
 to the fire after washing them, will be very likely to produce 
 the malady. 
 
 AN EFFECTUAL REMEDY FOR THE ITCH. 
 Take of hog’s lard, two ounces ; of flowers of sulphur, one 
 ounce ; of white hellebore-root, in powder, one drachm ; of 
 olive oil, one ounce ; of essence of bergamot, sufficient to 
 impart a pleasant smell. Mix the whole well together by 
 rubbing, with a bolus or other knife, on a smooth stone. 
 This ointment will be sufficient to anoint the whole of the 
 body, except the head, once. The operation should be 
 performed just before going to bed. The patient should 
 remain in bed thus anointed for twelve hours; and, on 
 rising from it, should be washed with warm water and 
 soap thoroughly clean; putting on, at the same time, not 
 only clean linen, but, if possible, every other kind of clean 
 clothing. This process, once gone through, will rarely if 
 ever fail to be effectual. A day previously to the applica¬ 
 tion, the patient should take a drachm of flowers of sulphur 
 mixed into an electuary with treacle or milk; and the like 
 dose a day or two afterwards. 
 
 Note, that this is a far more certain cure than mercury, 
 and is, at the same time, perfectly safe. The miseries of 
 mercury in this complaint may be seen in page 430, under 
 Treacle Posset. 
 
 LINIMENT FOR SCALDS AND BURNS. Mix 
 together equal parts of linseed oil and lime-water. Let the 
 mixture be applied by cloths dipped in it and folded over 
 the part. Extract of lead and lime-water may be also 
 mixed and applied in the same way. 
 
 Note, that one of the best remedies for a scald is wheat- 
 flour shaken over the part from a flour-box, immediately 
 after the accident, and suffered to remain till the crust 
 formed by the flour falls off. 
 
443 
 
 SCALDS, BURNS, POISONS. 
 
 Till this remedy was discovered, it was usual to plunge 
 the scalded part, as soon after the accident as possible, into 
 cold water or vinegar, and keep it there for ten or fifteen 
 minutes: this remedy will sometimes succeed very well. 
 
 For burns, liniment of turpentine , made with four 
 ounces each of yellow resin, wax, and olive oil melted 
 together; to which, when removed from the fire, six ounces 
 of oil of turpentine must be added ; and the whole strained 
 while hot, has been recommended as a dressing until the 
 loosening of the eschars. Before applying the liniment, 
 Dr. Kentish recommends the part to be bathed with warm 
 oil of turpentine. Or cotton wool may be applied to the 
 burned parts ; and if blisters have formed, it is said (Penny 
 Magazine, vol. ii. page 15) that they should not be opened. 
 
 But in all serious injuries from, scalds and burns , 
 the wisest course will be to apply at once to a medical 
 practitioner. 
 
 We conclude our notice of Medicinal Cookery by the 
 following Table on Poisons. It is true we have given it 
 in our Family Cyclopaedia ; but we deem it proper that 
 it should be here reprinted. And although we recommend 
 in every case where poisons have been taken, either by 
 accident or design, as the best and safest course, immediate 
 application to the first medical advice ; yet, as many 
 poisons operate and destroy life so rapidly that the patient 
 may die before the medical professor may arrive, it will be 
 sometimes, if not always necessary, that the persons about 
 the patient should exert their best skill according to the 
 following directions, in removing the poison from the 
 stomach, or in otherwise neutralizing its effects. 
 
 TABLE ON POISONS. 
 
 Substances. 
 
 Symptoms. 
 
 Remedies. 
 
 CONCENTRAT¬ 
 ED ACIDS: 
 The vitriolic or sul¬ 
 phuric, nitric, mu 
 riatic, oxalic, &c. 
 
 Burning pain, vomit¬ 
 ing; matter thrown up 
 effervescing with chalk, 
 salt of tartar, lime, or 
 magnesia. 
 
 Calcined magnesia ; one ounce 
 to a pint of warm or cold water. 
 A glassful to be taken every two 
 minutes, so as to excite vomit¬ 
 ing. Soap, or chalk and water ; 
 mucilaginous drinks afterwards, 
 such as linseed-tea or gum-arabic 
 and water. 
 
 ALKALIES: 
 Potash, soda, am¬ 
 monia, lime, &c. 
 
 Nearly the same: the 
 ejected matter does not 
 effervesce with alkalies, 
 but acids. 
 
 Vinegar or lemon-juice; a 
 spoonful or two in a glass of wa¬ 
 ter very frequently; simply 
 warm water. 
 
444 
 
 POISONS 
 
 Substances. 
 
 MERCURIAL 
 
 PREPARA¬ 
 
 TIONS: 
 
 Corrosive subli¬ 
 mate, &c. 
 
 ARSENICAL 
 
 PREPARA¬ 
 
 TIONS: 
 
 White arsenjc, &c. 
 
 PREPARATIONS 
 of COPPER : 
 Brass, verdigris, 
 halfpence, &c. 
 
 PREPARATIONS 
 of ANTIMONY: 
 Emetic tartar. Sec. 
 
 NITRE, or SALT¬ 
 PETRE. 
 
 PHOSPHORUS. 
 LEAD : 
 
 Sugar of lead, Gou¬ 
 lard’s extract, &c. 
 
 BARYTES: 
 
 The carbonate, mu¬ 
 riate, & c. 
 
 PRUSSIC ACID. 
 
 SAL AMMO¬ 
 NIAC. 
 
 GLASS, or 
 ENAMEL. 
 
 ALCOHOL: 
 Brandy, rum, gin, 
 wine, Stc. 
 
 IRRITATING 
 VEGETABLE 
 POISONS: 
 Monk’s hood, mea¬ 
 dow-saffron, ipeca¬ 
 cuanha, hellebore, 
 bear’s-foot, savine, 
 Sec. 
 
 Symptoms. 
 
 Remedies. 
 
 Sense ofconstriction in 
 the throat; matter vo¬ 
 mited sometimes mixed 
 with blood. 
 
 Extreme irritation ; 
 pain,sickness and speedy 
 death, if the poison be 
 not soon counteracted. 
 
 Symptoms nearly the 
 same as from mercury. 
 
 White of eggs; twelve or fif¬ 
 teen eggs beaten up, aud mixed 
 with a quart of cold water. A 
 glassful every three minutes ; 
 milk, gum-water, linseed-tea. 
 
 Warm water with sugar, in 
 large quantities to excite vomit¬ 
 ing. Lime-water, soap and wa¬ 
 ter, pearl-ash and water, mucila¬ 
 ginous drinks. 
 
 White of eggs; mucilaginous 
 drinks. See Mercurial Prepara¬ 
 tions, above. 
 
 Extreme sickness,with 
 other symptoms of poi¬ 
 son, as above stated. 
 
 Obstinate vomiting; 
 sometimes of blood, &c. 
 
 Like mineral acids. 
 
 Great pain in the sto¬ 
 mach, with constriction 
 of the throat, &c. 
 
 Vomiting, convulsions, 
 palsy, pain in the sto¬ 
 mach, &c. 
 
 The most virulent poi¬ 
 son, producing almost 
 inslant death, when ap¬ 
 plied even in small quan¬ 
 tities to the surface of 
 the body. 
 
 Excessive vomitings, 
 convulsions, pain in the 
 bowels, alteration in the 
 features; death. 
 
 If taken in coarse pow¬ 
 der, produces irritation 
 and inflammation of the 
 bowels. 
 
 Intoxication: when ta¬ 
 ken in large quantities, 
 insensibility, apoplexy, 
 or paralysis ; counte¬ 
 nance swollen, and of a 
 dark red colour; breath¬ 
 ing difficult ; often death. 
 
 Acrid taste; excessive 
 heat; violent vomiting; 
 purging; great pain in 
 the stomach and bowels. 
 Externally applied, many 
 of them produce inflam¬ 
 mation, blisters, pus¬ 
 tules. 
 
 Warm water or sugar and 
 water; afterwards a grain of 
 opium, or fifteen drops of lauda 
 num, every quarter of an hour, 
 for two or three times. 
 
 The same as for arsenic, with 
 the exception of lime-water and 
 alkalies. 
 
 Like mineral acids. 
 
 Large doses of Glauber’s or Ep¬ 
 som salts in warm water. 
 
 Half an ounce of Epsom or 
 Glauber’s salts dissolved in a 
 quart of water. Several glasses to 
 betaken. In place of these salts, 
 large draughts of hard well-water. 
 
 Emetics; afterwards oil of tur¬ 
 pentine, ammonia, brandy, with 
 warmth, friction, and blisters. 
 
 Vomiting to be rendered easy 
 by large draughts of warm sugar 
 and water. If vomiting be not 
 produced by the poison, it must 
 be excited by the finger. After¬ 
 wards opiates. 
 
 Large quantities of crumb of 
 bread should be eaten; after¬ 
 wards an emetic of white vitriol, 
 and demulcent drinks. 
 
 A powerful emetic of white vi¬ 
 triol, or emetic tartar; vomiting 
 to be encouraged by warm water, 
 and large clysters of salt water; 
 bleeding; if the head be very hot, 
 cold wet cloths may be applied ; if 
 the extremities be cold, friction. 
 
 If vomiting be produced by the 
 poison, large draughts of warm 
 water or thin gruel, to render it 
 easier. If insensibility be present, 
 white vitriol or other active 
 emetic : after the operation of 
 which, a brisk purgative ; then a 
 strong infusion of coffee or vine¬ 
 gar diluted with water. 
 
POISONS 
 
 445 
 
 
 \ 
 
 Substances. 
 
 NARCOTICS: 
 Opium, henbane, 
 hemlock, night- 
 J shade, &c. 
 
 
 ACRID 
 NARCOTICS : 
 Mushrooms. 
 
 I 
 
 Nux vomica. St. 
 I Ignatius’s bean, the 
 ij, upas, cocculus indi- 
 !] cus, &c. 
 
 POISONOUS 
 FISH : 
 
 I j; Oldwife, lobster, 
 ] ) crab, dolphin, con- 
 i| ger eel, muscle, 
 ii &c. 
 
 Symptoms. 
 
 Stupor; desire to vo¬ 
 mit ; heaviness in the 
 head; dilated pupil of 
 the eye ; delirium ; 
 speedy death. 
 
 Nausea; heat; pain in 
 the stomach and bowels; 
 vomiting ; purging ; 
 thirst; convulsions ; cold 
 sweats ; death. 
 
 None of these inflame 
 the parts they touch. In¬ 
 troduced into the sto¬ 
 mach, or applied to 
 wounds, they are rapidly 
 absorbed, producing ge¬ 
 nerally rigidity, convul¬ 
 sions,'ana death. 
 
 In an hour or two, or 
 sooner, after some fish 
 have been eaten, more 
 especially if stale, weight 
 at the stomach, sickness, 
 giddiness, thirst, &c. 
 come on : in some cases, 
 death. 
 
 POISONOUS 
 1 SERPENTS: 
 
 The viper or adder, 
 Ij rattle-snake, &c. 
 
 A sharp pain in the 
 wounded part, soon ex¬ 
 tending- over the body; 
 great swelling ; first hard 
 and pale, then reddish ; 
 faintings, vomitings, 
 convulsions ; inflamma¬ 
 tion, often extensive 
 suppuration, gangrene, 
 and death. 
 
 SPANISH FLIES. Nauseous odour of the 
 breath, burning heat in 
 the throat and stomach ; 
 vomiting, often bloody; 
 painful priapism, heat in 
 the bladder, convulsions, 
 delirium, death. 
 
 VENOMOUS 
 INSECTS: 
 Tarantula, scor¬ 
 pion, hornet, wasp, 
 bee, gnat, Sic. 
 
 In general, only a 
 slight degree of pain and 
 swelling; sometimes 
 sickness and fever. 
 
 Remedies. 
 
 Four or five grains of emetic 
 tartar in a glass of water. If this 
 dose does not succeed, four 
 grains of blue vitriol, as an eme¬ 
 tic. Do not give large quantities 
 of water. After the poison has 
 been ejected, give vinegar, lemon 
 juice, or cream of tartar and 
 strong coffee. 
 
 Three grains of emetic tartar in 
 a glass of water: in fifteen mi¬ 
 nutes the dose to be repeated. 
 After vomiting, frequent doses 
 of Glauber’s or Epsom salts, and 
 stimulating clysters. 
 
 The emetic as under Mush¬ 
 rooms-. lungs to be inflated. Two 
 ounces of water, one drachm of 
 ether, two drachms of oil of tur¬ 
 pentine, and half an ounce of su¬ 
 gar, mixed together; two spoons¬ 
 ful of which to be taken every 
 ten minutes. 
 
 An emetic ; vomiting to be ex¬ 
 cited by tickling the throat with 
 the finger, and by draughts of 
 warm water. After vomiting, an 
 active purgative; afterwards vi¬ 
 negar and water, or water sweet¬ 
 ened with sugar, and an addition 
 of ethe--. After the evacuations, 
 laudanum. 
 
 A moderately tight ligature to 
 be applied above the bite, and the 
 wound left to bleed, after being 
 washed with warm water. The 
 actual cautery, lunar caustic, or 
 butter of antimony, to be applied; 
 then lint dipped in equal parts of 
 olive oil anu spirit of hartshorn. 
 Ligature to be removed if the 
 inflammation be considerable. 
 Warm dilutingdrinks,with small 
 doses ofammoniaorhartshorn,to 
 cause perspiration. The patient 
 should be well covered in bed. 
 drinking occasionally warm 
 wine. If gangrene threaten, wine 
 and bark must be freely given. 
 
 Vomiting, freely excited by 
 sweet oil, sugar and water, or 
 linseed-tea; emollient clysters. 
 Camphor dissolved in oil may be 
 rubbed over the belly and thighs. 
 
 H artsliorn and oil, salt and wa¬ 
 ter ; a few drops of hartshorn 
 may be taken internally in a glass 
 of water. The sting may in ge¬ 
 neral be removed by making a 
 strong pressure over it with the 
 barrel of a small watch-key. 
 
 
446 
 
 USEFUL RECIPES. 
 
 [Under this section we place some miscellaneous direc¬ 
 tions which could not be conveniently arranged elsewhere 
 in our work. It is true Useful Recfes impart ideas of con¬ 
 siderable latitude; but we shall take care, on many accounts, 
 not to increase very much the size of our volume, which has 
 already extended far beyond the limits originally assigned 
 to it; for this reason it is that we must omit entirely Direc¬ 
 tions for the Management of the Dairy, of Bees, of 
 Poultry, and of the Garden. But as Mr. Mowbray’s 
 Book on Poultry, the Dairy, and on Bees, &c. offers a 
 very useful manual on these subjects, we confidently refer to 
 it as one in which the expectations of the Domestic Econo¬ 
 mist will not be disappointed. Epitomes on Gardening 
 are veiy numerous ; but in our Family Cyclopaedia will 
 be found most of the information (except the monthly 
 routine) which is usually desired concerning that pleasing 
 and w r e may add delightful art.] 
 
 ARTIFICIAL CREAM may be made by beating up an 
 egg or eggs with some powdered lump sugar, diluting the 
 mixture gradually with warm water and afterwards passing 
 it through a hair sieve. The proportions must be left to 
 the judgment of the operator. 
 
 Note, that this cannot be offered as a complete succeda- 
 neum for cream ; but where cream cannot be obtained, as 
 on ship-board for instance, it will supply the place of it 
 tolerably well. But we, be it remembered, do not advocate 
 its employment by the dyspeptic, or others w T hose diges¬ 
 tions are not of the first order. 
 
 POTTING BUTTER. As the Welsh are famous for 
 Potting Butter, and as one of our Council of Cooks is 
 at this time (Sept. 1833) on a visit to a lady (Mrs. Francis) 
 of Prickweltycoed, near Carmarthen, from whom we 
 have received for some time past annually a supply of that 
 article, we have obtained Mrs. Francis’s method of pro¬ 
 ceeding, which is at once one of the simplest and best 
 of which we have ever heard. 
 
 “ Eight cows produce about six gallons of cream per 
 
USEFUL RECIPES. 
 
 447 
 
 ¥ 
 
 week; the cream after being taken off the milk is left to 
 settle for one week ; it is then put into the churn and 
 churned till it becomes butter, when it is taken out and 
 placed in a tub in spring water ; from the tub it is taken 
 out in small portions and clapped on a wooden clapper held 
 in one hand and beaten by the other. When it is all thus 
 treated, your butter must be put into the tub again (without 
 water of course) and be well mixed with salt, one pound of 
 which and no more is used for every tw’enty pounds of but¬ 
 ter. When the butter is thus salted, it must be clapped 
 again as before and then put into the jar or cask in which 
 it is to be finally kept. The cask, if a cask be employed, 
 must be previously well scoured with sand and boiling water 
 and then set to dry. When dry, it must be wetted in the 
 inside with salt and water, and then the butter must be put 
 in.” 
 
 Note, that from the small quantity of salt employed we 
 had our suspicions that some mistake had been committed ; 
 but on inquiry again of Mrs. Francis only one pound of 
 salt to twenty pounds of butter is employed. We are 
 enabled to speak of the effective nature of this process by 
 long experience; and we may observe too, besides, that 
 upon the most effectual separation of the butter-milk by 
 clapping as above, depends, we have no doubt, the chief 
 success of the process of potting butter together with its 
 being salted as soon as it is churned or very shortly after¬ 
 wards. 
 
 See Butter in pages 23 and 24. 
 
 EAU DE COLOGNE. Take of essence of Berga- 
 motte three ounces ; essence of orange flowers ( Neroli) 
 one drachm and a half ; of essence of citron two drachms ; 
 of essence of lemon three drachms ; of oil of rosemary one 
 drachm ; of compound honey-water two pints and a quar¬ 
 ter ; of rectified spirit of wine twelve pints; of spirit of 
 rosemary three pints and a half; mix them all together and 
 distil in a water-bath, sixteen or more pints. 
 
 Note, that this is an unnecessary complication ; it is one 
 of which our neighbours as well as ourselves were formerly 
 fond : it may be considerably simplified without any injury 
 to its aromatic or cosmetic properties. It is sometimes 
 
448 
 
 USEFUL RECIPES. 
 
 made into a ratafia with sugar according to the proportion 
 of sugar in other ratafias., which see. 
 
 The following articles were accidentally omitted under 
 their proper heads. 
 
 To BOIL BACON. It should have been mentioned 
 after Ham in page 7, that Bacon is usually brought to the 
 table when boiled, with the skin stripped off and some 
 grated crumb of bread or brown crust strewed over it. 
 But see what is said in regard to the nutritious properties of 
 skin under Ham in page 7. It may not be fashionable to 
 send boiled bacon to table with the skin upon it; but sure 
 we are that, when it is well boiled, the skin is the most 
 nutritious part of it. 
 
 RED MULLET or SEA WOODCOCK. This fish is, 
 after being cleaned, baked with the entrails in it; it is 
 usually folded in oiled or buttered paper. A gravy is made 
 with the liquor that comes from them, and butter, soy, 
 essence of anchovy and wine. 
 
 BURGOO is a Scotch dish and usually made by mixing 
 oatmeal in pretty large quantity with water into a smooth 
 pap and then boiling it for a time sufficiently long to dis¬ 
 solve the meal in the water ; it is, in fact, merely a thick 
 gruel. When it is taken off the fire, salt, butter, and 
 sometimes pepper are mixed w r ith it to make it palatable. 
 
 WHITE POT is a west country dish; it is usually made 
 with milk thickened with flour and sometimes w ? ith eggs, to 
 which are added spices, &c. such as nutmegs, and also 
 sugar ; sometimes currants are also added to it. It is in fact 
 an unwholesome pap, which we have no disposition to re¬ 
 commend. 
 
 Note, that rice is occasionally employed instead of flour; 
 cream, crumbs of bread, and blanched almonds pounded, 
 candied orange, &c. are also now and then added to increase 
 at once the richness and unwholesomeness of the mixture; 
 from all such may we be ever defended ! 
 
 RENNET is prepared in various ways. But the most 
 usual method is the following. The vell, that is, the 
 lowest or proper stomach of the calf, is usually salted to 
 preserve it; and in its preserved state it will keep for years 
 if it be kept moist with salt; indeed among the dairy 
 farmers the older the vell is the more it is esteemed. The 
 
USEFUL RECIPES. 
 
 449 
 
 veil when you want your rennet is to be taken out of the 
 pickle and spread upon sticks or some other proper conveni¬ 
 ence, and dried. A quart of spring water is then to be 
 poured on the veil, which if cut into pieces will yield its 
 acid more readily. It should remain in the water twenty- 
 four hours. The veil may be then taken out and put into 
 another vessel, with about half the quantity of water, and 
 allowed to remain in it for a like period. The first and 
 second infusions must be mixed together and strained into 
 a jar, to which must be added a considerable quantity of 
 salt. The liquor is then fit for use, and requires no after 
 management, except that of taking off the scum which 
 usually rises to the top, and adding a little salt, w T hen that 
 already in the jar is nearly dissolved. Half a pint of this 
 liquor is generally sufficient to coagulate such a quantity of 
 milk as will make sixty pounds of cheese. When a portion 
 as taken out, the liquor should be w T ell stirred up. 
 
 Note , that when a small quantity of rennet only is 
 wanted, a small portion of the veil may be employed. 
 
 The SALT OF LEMON sold in boxes in the shops con¬ 
 sists generally of equal parts of salt of sorrel, sal acetosa, 
 and cream of tartar rubbed into a powder. But the salt of 
 sorrel is more powerful, when used alone, in getting out 
 iron-moulds from linen, cotton, &c.; it operates simply by 
 dissolving the iron which produces the stain; of course 
 ^Stronger acids wall dissolve the iron; but if these be em¬ 
 ployed, there is danger of their destroying the cloth. It is 
 best applied to the cloth when stretched over a tumbler of 
 boiling water, or on some metallic plate, such as of pewter 
 made boiling hot with water. 
 
 BLACKING for preserving leather and rendering boots, 
 shoes, &c. water-tight, is best thus made: take of yellow 
 wax one ounce and a half; of mutton suet four ounces and 
 a half; of horse-turpentine half an ounce ; ivory-black three 
 ounces. Melt first the wax, to which add the suet, and 
 afterwards the horse-turpentine. When the whole is melted 
 remove it from the fire, and mix in gradually the ivory- 
 black, constantly stirring till it is cold. 
 
 Note, that this composition is sometimes run into moulds, 
 and sold under the name of Blacking-balls. When it 
 is used it should be laid or rubbed upon a brush, which 
 
450 
 
 USEFUL RECIPES. 
 
 should be warmed before the fire. It is the best blacking 
 ever invented for harness. When wanted in large quantity, 
 it may be melted gently in a ladle over a pan of coals. 
 
 LIQUID BLACKING. Take of ivory-black and treacle 
 of each three ounces; of olive-oil and gum-arabic of each 
 two drachms; of stale beer ten ounces; of vinegar two 
 ounces ; of oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) two drachms ; mix 
 the whole together. 
 
 Note, that this will make a shining blacking; bui it must 
 be, as most liquid blackings are, injurious to the leather. 
 
 TO PREVENT THE ANNOYANCE OF BUGS. 
 Take of corrosive sublimate (which, be it remembered, is a 
 strong poison) half an ounce; of lard six ounces. Rub 
 the sublimate with a few drops of linseed-oil in a marble 
 mortar till it becomes smooth and fine, then add to it the 
 lard by little and little, till the whole is well mixed; and 
 lastly as much more oil as will make the mixture of the 
 consistence of a thick paint. The bedstead is then to be 
 taken to pieces, brushed in the joints, or, what is better, the 
 joints should be plunged into boiling water, afterwards 
 scrubbed with a brush, and after they are dry, some of the 
 mixture must be applied with a brush to every place in 
 which a bug can possibly be concealed. A bedstead being 
 thus treated once a year will generally be free from the 
 annoyance of bugs, provided also that the furniture is well 
 washed at the same period. And provided also that the 
 master or mistress of a family will personally superintend 
 the process here recommended. 
 
 When an application is desirable to the furniture of a 
 bed, the following may be useful; but if proper attention be 
 paid to the bedstead, this is not in general necessary: it is 
 besides a recipe for sloth. 
 
 Take of rectified spirits of wine and oil of turpentine of 
 each half a pint; mix them together, and crumble into the 
 mixture half an ounce of camphor; when it is dissolved, 
 shake the whole well together, and apply it to the furniture 
 with a sponge or a brush. Care must be taken not to bring 
 a candle or other flaming body near the bed when the mix¬ 
 ture is applied, as it is very inflammable. 
 
 When bugs infest the paper of a room, and propagate 
 themselves behind it, the only remedy is to strip the paper 
 
USEFUL RECIPES. 451 
 
 off, and wash the walls with a mixture of quick lime and 
 water without any size. 
 
 BLACK INK. Take of finely bruised galls three ounces; 
 of sulphate of iron, (green copperas,) logwood shavings, and 
 gum arabic, of each one ounce; of vinegar one quart. 
 Digest the whole in ajar for a fortnight, stirring the mix¬ 
 ture every day. When the coarser parts have subsided, 
 pour off the ink for use. 
 
 Or, take of bruised galls one pound; boiling rain-water 
 one gallon; pour the water to the galls, mix them well 
 together, and let them stand for a month, stirring them 
 every day. Then add six ounces of sulphate of iron and 
 two ounces of roch alum; when these are dissolved, add six 
 ounces of gum arabic, on the solution of which the ink may 
 be poured off. 
 
 Or, the galls may be boiled in the water for an hour or 
 more, allowing for the evaporation of it; and the other in¬ 
 gredients be immediately added to the liquor while hot, and 
 then strained off; but the gum arabic may be added after it 
 is strained. This is a very expeditious way of making ink, 
 and, we believe, a very good one. 
 
 RED INK. Boil two ounces of Brazil-wood chips in a 
 pint of water for a quarter of an hour, adding a proper 
 quantity of gum arabic, about half an ounce, and as much 
 roch alum. Or, take eight ounces of Brazil-wood chips, 
 four ounces of roch alum, one quart of distilled vinegar, and 
 boil them together for a quarter of an hour or more; strain 
 the liquor off, and add two ounces of gum arabic. Note , 
 that stale strong beer may be used instead of vinegar. 
 
 SPIRITS OF VITRIOL are merely water and oil of 
 vitriol mixed together in various proportions. For culinary 
 and domestic purposes, equal parts of the two ingredients 
 may be employed. But as a medicine, the London Phar¬ 
 macopoeia directs, under the name of diluted sulphuric 
 acid, one ounce and a half, by measure, of sulphuric acid 
 (oil of vitriol) to be mixed with fourteen ounces and a half 
 of water, also by measure. The acid must be gradually 
 added to the water, and then mixed by gentle shaking; but, 
 during its mixture, the bottle should not be stopped: in 
 fact, it is best to mix the acid with the water in a stone jar. 
 
 TOOTH POWDER. Take equal parts of prepared 
 
452 
 
 USEFUL RECIPES. 
 
 chalk and charcoal, and let them be thoroughly mixed. Or, 
 one ounce of cream of tartar, half an ounce of myrrh, and 
 two drachms of Peruvian bark, all in powder, and to be 
 mixed together: they may be made of a red colour by 
 powdered bole armenic or rose pink. Or, orris root four 
 ounces ; cuttle-fish bone two ounces; cream of tartar one 
 ounce, all in powder, and mixed well together with a few 
 drops of oil of cloves. 
 
 A WASH FOR THE TEETH may consist merely of 
 simple tincture of myrrh. Or, port wine half an ounce; 
 sulphate of quinine ten grains; essence of bergamotte a 
 few drops, mixed together. To be applied to the teeth 
 with a soft linen rag or lint dipped in it. 
 
 MILK OF ROSES. Take of subcarbonate of potash 
 (salt of tartar) six grains ; of oil of almonds one ounce; 
 of essence of bergamotte two drachms ; of rose water three 
 ounces; of orange-flower-water tw r o drachms. Shake them 
 together. 
 
 FRENCH POLISH. Take of seed lac six ounces; of 
 gum juniper one ounce and a half; of gum mastic one 
 ounce; of rectified spirit of wine thirty-two ounces. 
 
 Let all the ingredients be reduced to a coarse powder, 
 and then mix them with the rectified spirit of wine in a 
 vessel which wall contain double the quantity, in order that 
 on being exposed to the moderate heat of a sand bath, or 
 other moderate heat, room may be given for the expansion 
 of the spirit without bursting the vessel. The mixture 
 should be well shaken every day, taking care to loosen the 
 cork during the shaking: a few days will be sufficient to 
 dissolve all the resins. The application of this varnish is 
 well known. See Tingry’s Varnislier's Guide, third 
 edition, 1832, page 141. 
 
 TO MAKE NEW MAHOGANY OF A DARKER 
 COLOUR. Make a paste with quick lime and water and 
 cover the mahogany with it, laying it on with a brush ; a 
 few minutes wall be sufficient to alter the colour materially; 
 the longer it remains on the -wood the darker it will become. 
 It should be removed carefully, but not be washed off; the 
 mahogany should be afterwards well rubbed. 
 
 For a slight red stain for mahogany see Furniture- 
 Balls forwards. 
 
USEFUL RECIPES. 
 
 453 
 
 TO TAKE INK STAINS OUT OF MAHOGANY. 
 Wash first the stain well with soap and water, in order to 
 abstract as much as possible the oil and other matters with 
 which the surface is loaded ; then apply, upon the stain 
 only, some pretty strong spirits of vitriol, as described 
 above —spirits of salts or nitric acid; let it remain on 
 the part sufficiently long to abstract the ink. If the part, 
 after being well washed with water, should be lighter than 
 the general colour of the mahogany, an application of the 
 paste mentioned in the last article will deepen it. 
 
 PASTE for common purposes may be made by simply 
 mixing flour and water into a thin pap and then pouring 
 the liquid into boiling water : from five to ten minutes’ 
 
 f filing wall be sufficient to make the paste ready for use. 
 o prevent it from being lumpy the flour should be mixed 
 ith a little cold water, in the first place, into a thick 
 dough, and be thinned by adding gradually the water to it. 
 If you desire to make the paste particularly dry mg, half 
 an ounce of alum to a pint of paste may be dissolved in the 
 water before putting the flour to it; and if you desire to 
 fimake it very adhesive, half an ounce of glue may be al¬ 
 lowed to each pint of paste. The glue should be previously 
 dissolved in the water before the flour is added to it. 
 
 FLY WATER. Dissolve one ounce of powdered white 
 arsenic in two quarts of cold water, to which add an ounce 
 -of sugar. Of this the flies will sip and die almost imme¬ 
 diately; but we doubt much whether any benefit can be 
 derived from this practice, as the liquor proves very attrac¬ 
 tive, and hence is a constant temptation to flies to sip of it, 
 dnd thus their numbers are considerably increased. It 
 should not be forgotten besides that arsenic is a virulent 
 poison, and its solution ought to be placed out of the possi¬ 
 bility of being' used by mistake or by children. 
 
 TO LOOSEN THE STOPPERS OF GLASS 
 BOTTLES. The stoppers of glass bottles generally be¬ 
 come fixed by some resinous or gummy matter attached to 
 them ; and sometimes by merely being pressed into the 
 neck too tight. In the last case, gently tapping the top of 
 the stopper with a bit of hard wood, as a hammer, will 
 frequently answer the purpose. In the first case, sometimes 
 | exposing the neck of the bottle to heat before the fire will 
 
454 
 
 USEFUL RECIPES. 
 
 do it; at others, immersing 1 it for a few minutes in warm 
 water, heat expanding the neck of the bottle, and the 
 water besides dissolving in part the gummij matter. But if 
 it be resinous, an immersion of the neck of the bottle for a 
 few minutes in proof spirit, or rectified spirit made warm, at 
 the same time that the neck of the bottle is also made warm, 
 may effectuate the object. In all cases attention must be 
 paid to the contents of the bottle, which if ardent spirits, 
 ether, or rectified spirits of wine, care must be taken not 
 to expose the bottle to great heat, or the bottle may burst. 
 
 TO PREVENT FIRE IRONS FROM RUSTING, 
 they should be either anointed with sweet olive oil and ex¬ 
 cluded as much as possible from the air; or be rubbed over 
 with sweet and well purified mutton suet: some shake 
 over them in addition unslaked lime in powder. Rancid 
 oil or rancid suet will cause them to rust. 
 
 STAINS CAUSED BY ACIDS, on silk, &c. may in 
 general be taken out by simply wetting the part with water, 
 then rubbing 1 on it subcarbonate of potash (salt of tartar). 
 When the colour is restored, the salt may-be washed away 
 with cold water. 
 
 PAINTED FLOOR-CLOTHS, to be durable, should 
 be chosen the colours of which have been laid on a long 
 time. Of those which look most fresh and brilliant the 
 paint generally wears off very soon, more especially if 
 washed with soap and water. They are very often used for 
 staircases; but when much used, they soon wear out; and 
 we know of no means of repairing them: for staircases, 
 therefore, woollen carpets are much to be preferred. 
 
 POT POURR1, or PRESERVED FLOWERS. We 
 have seen, under Rose Water, page 412, the best method 
 of preserving the aroma of that elegantly-scented flower the 
 Rose; we cannot doubt, therefore, that the aroma of some 
 other flowers can be preserved in a similar way. Hence 
 the various directions in our books for Pot Pourri. But 
 it is not all sweet smelling flowers which will bear bruising 
 like the rose, and therefore some of them must be treated 
 in a more delicate way; the violet, for example, will not 
 bear bruising—its aromatic emanation is too fugacious: 
 who expects to find its delicate aroma in a syrup of the 
 violet? which, in truth, is good for nothing but for its 
 
USEFUL RECIPES. 
 
 455 
 
 ourple colour. Who could expect to find in one species of 
 ;he flower de luce, when the flower is bruised and preserved 
 .vith salt, that faint yet elegant smell which, when in 
 ilossom on its stalk, it gives out to those whose olfactory 
 lerves are of the most exquisite and discriminating kind ? 
 3r who expects to find the emanation of the flower of the 
 asmine diffusing itself when bruised in a pot pourri ? 
 Vet fortunately for this last, storax and other resins con¬ 
 fining the benzoic acid supply the smell of the jasmine 
 n tolerable perfection. Hence we find, among other in¬ 
 gredients of a pot pourri, roses, violets, jasmine, and orange 
 lowers; orris root, (which well supplies the aroma of the 
 dolet,) storax, benjamin, musk, angelica root; clove-july 
 lowers, lavender, rosemary, lemon peel, cloves, marjoram, 
 balm of gilead, lemon thyme, mints, &c. &c. All, or as 
 nany of which as you shall choose, are to be mixed toge- 
 her and strew'ed in layers in a suitable vessel, a china vase, 
 )r other jar, having a cover wffiich fits tight, with alternate 
 ;ayers of bay salt till the vessel is full, so that when the 
 mver is taken olf an aroma of such mixed scents will be 
 liffused over the apartment. 
 
 Note, that the gums and other resins, as well as the orris, 
 tngelica root, and cloves, must be powdered. The petals 
 )f all the flowers must be separated from the calyxes, but let 
 .lot one of them be bruised except the roses. 
 
 SILK OR CLOTH DAUBED WITH PAINT may 
 je freed from it by soaking the part daubed in oil of turpen- 
 ;ine, and washing, as it w r ere, the paint out. Care must, 
 aow'ever, be taken that the oil of turpentine has no affinity 
 for the colour of the cloth, or that may also be discharged. It 
 s best, therefore, to make an experiment on a bit of the cloth 
 with the turpentine first before it is applied to the garment. 
 
 Note, that the sooner after the accident the paint is got 
 aut the better, for if it be suffered to get dry it is often im¬ 
 possible to remove it without destroying the cloth. 
 
 FURNITURE BALLS. Take one pint of linseed oil, 
 into which put two ounces of alkanet root; let them stand 
 on the hot hob of a fire-place for twenty-four hours, or till 
 the colouring matter of the root is imparted to the oil; melt 
 then eighteen ounces of yellow wax, with two ounces of 
 yellow resin, add the linseed oil to the melted mixture, and 
 
456 
 
 USEFUL RECIPES. 
 
 stir it till it is cold; or, when it is just cold enough to run, 
 it may be poured into suitable moulds if you choose. 
 
 Note, that linseed oil, coloured with alkanet root, as 
 above, makes a convenient stain to rub on mahogany and 
 other woods where only a slightly red colour is wanted. 
 
 NANKIN DYE. Take of annatto and salt of tartar 
 of each two ounces ; dissolve them in a pint or less of boiling- 
 water. The proportion of annatto must be added or di¬ 
 minished according as the colour of the cloth or other ma¬ 
 terial is wanted deep or light. 
 
 LIQUID BLUE. Pour upon one ounce of good indigo 
 four ounces of sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol) in a stone jar, 
 which place in a water-bath, and subject the jar to a boiling- 
 heat till the indigo is dissolved, then add to the solutior 
 twelve ounces of water. It should be kept in a glass bottle 
 having aground-glass stopper. 
 
 Note, that this is what is called a substantive dye ; silk, 
 such as ribbon, &c. immersed in it, becomes, in a few 
 minutes, of a beautiful blue colour, provided it be not 
 charged with other incongruous colouring matter. 
 
 Those who desire to obtain more information concern¬ 
 ing Dyeing may consult Packer’s Dyer’s Guide, 
 second edition of 1830, a work to which they will not apply 
 in vain. 
 
 PLATE POWDER may be made in various ways. 
 Some use quicksilver rubbed with powdered or prepared 
 chalk in a marble mortar till it wholly disappears, and the 
 mixture becomes of a greyish colour: the proportion may 
 be three ounces of quicksilver to five ounces of chalk. But 
 many persons disapprove of this as a plate powder—they 
 say that it renders the silver brittle. Others use polishers’ 
 putty, prepared burnt harshorn, and prepared chalk in 
 about equal quantities ; others use the prepared burnt harts¬ 
 horn alone ; or they make a thin pap with that and water, 
 soak white rags in it and dry them ; they thus become a sort 
 of very fine sand-rag. Or levigated oxide of tin, commonly 
 called prepared putty, may be employed. Shammy leather 
 is the article with which most plate polishes should be ap¬ 
 plied ; certain parts of plate will, however, require a soft 
 brush •, a very fine-washed emery powder may also be em¬ 
 ployed. Some use whiting or prepared chalk. 
 
USEFUL RECIPES. 457 
 
 Note, that some use purple brown, or other finely levi- 
 gated oxide of iron, only for plate powder; certain parts of 
 plate will, however, require a soft brush. 
 
 A good way to clean plate is to boil an ounce each of 
 cream of tartar, muriate of soda (common salt), and alum 
 and the plate in a gallon or more of water. After the 
 plate is taken out and rubbed dry it puts on a beautiful 
 silvery whiteness, giving the appearance of new silver. 
 
 LIQUIDS FOR BOOT-TOPS consist of several kinds. 
 Une is made by dissolving an ounce of oxalic acid in a pint 
 or more of rain or other soft water, to which are added an 
 ounce or two of finely-levigated pumice stone. This 
 mixture must be well scrubbed upon the tops with a hard 
 brush, then the tops must be well sponged with water and 
 dried in the sun or by the fire : this process will make the 
 tops white. 
 
 If you desire the tops brown, they must not be scrubbed 
 with a brush ; but all stains being removed by the applica¬ 
 tion of the liquid, the tops must be well sponged with water 
 and highly polished by rubbing with flannel. 
 
 Or, take of sour milk, one pint and half; of sulphuric 
 
 aC i i °ir e ° UnCe ’ ° f com P ound s P irit of lavender, one ounce 
 and half; of gum arabic, half an ounce; of lemon iuice 
 one ounce: mix them. J ’ 
 
 Note, that Oxalic Acid is a powerful poison; from 
 the carelessness with which it is kept it is sometimes mis- 
 taken for purging salts, and has often produced death. See 
 our Table of Poisons, page 444. 
 
 BLACK BEETLES and CRICKETS. Take one 
 ounce of levigated arsenic and half a pound of fine-powdered 
 loaf sugar, mix them well, spread it over a plate, and place 
 it where crickets and black beetles can get at it. [Takino- 
 care to remove it in the morning, as it is rank poison.] 
 Condensed Ginger Powder for Ginger Beer. 
 
 Take one pound of the finest refined sugar in coarse 
 powder, thirteen drachms of highly exsiccated carbonate 
 of soda, two drachms and four grains of the finest Jamaica 
 ginger in powder, and thirteen drachms of highly exsic¬ 
 cated tartaric acid. This quantity is sufficient for thirty- 
 two tumbler glasses. It should be kept in a perfectly dry 
 wide-mouthed bottle, and lightly corked. If the acid and 
 
 x 
 
USEFUL RECIPES. 
 
 458 
 
 the alkali are not fully deprived of their water of crystalli¬ 
 zation by exsiccation, spontaneous effervescence will ensue, 
 and the powder become spoiled ; therefore great caution is 
 necessary in purchasing - the articles. 
 
 To make portable Effervescing Lemonade. 
 
 Take two hundred and forty grains of carbonate of soda, 
 thirty-six drachms of powdered refined sugar, and fifteen 
 drops of essence of lemon, all rubbed together, and 
 divided into twelve parts, to be wrapped in blue paper. 
 
 Six drachms of tartaric acid in twelve white papers. 
 
 When used, make a solution of one of the powders in 
 blue paper first in a tumbler of cold spring-water, then add 
 the acid from the white paper, and stir it briskly to produce 
 violent effervescence. 
 
 Zest for Gravies. 
 
 Take of powdered thyme, sweet marjoram, sage, and 
 savoury, each two drachms, cayenne in powder half an 
 ounce, angelica in powder one drachm, and coriander seeds 
 two drachms, to be well mixed together. This zest will be 
 found much superior to that recommended by Kitchener. 
 
 Piquant Sauce. 
 
 Take two ounces of cayenne pepper, a pint of brown 
 vinegar, and an ounce each of soy and port wine ; let these 
 ingredients stand and macerate for a few weeks, then 
 strain, and bottle for use. 
 
 To preserve and flavour Hams and Tongues. 
 
 Take two ounces each of bay salt and coarse brown 
 sugar, and two table-spoonfuls of Cambrian essence, for a 
 tongue, and a quantity larger in proportion for a ham. 
 
 A good pickling salt is made with equal parts of brown 
 sugar and bay salt. 
 
 Lemon pickle is made with equal proportions of lemon 
 juice and vinegar, salted and spiced to palate. 
 
A Table of Expenses, Income, or Wages, showing 
 at one view what any sum, from one •pound to one hundred 
 pounds per annum , is per calendar month, week, or day. 
 
 As, however, some fractions are omitted in this Table, 
 of no great moment certainly, yet to be exact, even to the 
 slightest fraction, is sometimes of consequence, the follow¬ 
 ing rules, which are invariable, may be very soon committed 
 to memory. 
 
 The farthings in each week will make appear 
 The shillings and the pence spent in the year. 
 
 For example, two farthings a week is two shillings and 
 twopence a-year. 
 
 Again, 
 
 Number the pennies of each day’s expense. 
 
 So many pounds, angels, groats, and pence. 
 
 You spend within the year’s circumference. 
 
 Thus— 2d. per day will make two pounds, two angels, 
 two groats, and two pence; or the whole three pounds 
 and ten pence. We see, however, by our table, that three 
 guineas is set down to be 2d. a-day, whereas this sum is 
 more than 2d. a-day, although the fractions cannot be set 
 down in the table. 
 
460 TABLE OF EXPENSES, INCOME, OR WAGES 
 
 
 Per Year. 
 
 
 
 
 Per Month. 
 
 Per Week. 
 
 Per Day. 
 
 £ 
 
 S. 
 
 d. 
 
 
 
 
 £ 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 £ 
 
 s 
 
 d. 
 
 £ 
 
 s. d. 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 4* 
 
 0 
 
 0 0$ 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 0 1 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 H 
 
 0 
 
 0 14 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 9f 
 
 0 
 
 0 14 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 o 114 
 
 0 
 
 0 If 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 H 
 
 0 
 
 0 2 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 4 
 
 0 
 
 0 2 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 4* 
 
 0 
 
 0 24 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 6* 
 
 0 
 
 0 24 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 7§ 
 
 0 
 
 0 2f 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 8f 
 
 0 
 
 0 3 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 0 34 
 
 5 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 n 
 
 0 
 
 0 34 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 1* 
 
 0 
 
 0 3f 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 H 
 
 0 
 
 0 4 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 0 44 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 0 44 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 8i 
 
 0 
 
 0 44 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 0 4f 
 
 7 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 10| 
 
 0 
 
 0 5 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 0 54 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 2f 
 
 0 
 
 0 54 
 
 S 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 3* 
 
 0 
 
 0 54 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 5§ 
 
 0 
 
 0 6 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 H 
 
 0 
 
 0 64 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 0 64 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 Of 
 
 0 
 
 0 7 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 18 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 0 74 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 0 
 
 19 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 5* 
 
 0 
 
 0 74 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 74 
 
 0 
 
 0 8 
 
 12 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 0 84 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 0 84 
 
 13 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 0 9 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 4| 
 
 0 
 
 0 94 
 
 14 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 0 94 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 0 10 
 
 15 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 04 
 
 0 
 
 0 104 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 0 104 . 
 
 16 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 54 
 
 0 
 
 0 11 
 
 17 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 c§ 
 
 0 
 
 0 114 
 
 17 
 
 17 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 6 101 
 
 0 
 
 0 114 
 
 18 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 0 114 
 
 18 
 
 18 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 1 04 
 
 19 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 34 
 
 0 
 
 1 04 
 
 20 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 1 14 
 
 30 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 1 74 
 
 40 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 44 
 
 0 
 
 2 24 
 
 50 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 19 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 2 9 
 
 60 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 Of 
 
 0 
 
 3 3i 
 
 70 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 5 
 
 16 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 3 10 
 
 80 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 6 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 4 44 
 
 90 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 7 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 74 
 
 0 
 
 4 11 
 
 100 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 
 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 18 
 
 54 
 
 0 
 
 5 5f 
 
MARKETING TABLES, 
 
 Showing the amount of any number of pounds, yards, &c. 
 at any price, from 1 farthing to 1 or 2 shillings; as for 
 example:—You purchase 9 pounds of meat at 10 pence 
 3 farthings per pound ; what is the amount ? Look in the 
 column under the head 10 pence, and on a line with 9 pounds 
 in the first column, you will find the amount to be 7s. 6d.; 
 then look in the column under the head 3 farthings; and 
 on a line with 9 pounds, as before, you will find 6 pence 
 3 farthings; these two sums added together make 8 shil¬ 
 lings and three farthings, and so of all the rest, in cases 
 where farthings occur. And should the price of the 
 goods be 1 shilling and 9 pence, or 1 shilling and 10 pence 
 farthing per pound, &c., by adding two or three sums 
 together in the same manner, these Tables will shew the 
 amount required, for that or any other price, as high as 
 2 shillings. 
 
 Note, that what is called the great hundred, or in com¬ 
 mon language one hundred weight, is one hundred and 
 twelve pounds ; that a quarter of a hundred is 28 pounds, 
 half a hundred 56 pounds; and three quarters of a hun¬ 
 dred 84 pounds; that a score is 20 pounds; and that a 
 stone of meat in London is 8 pounds: but it varies in many 
 other parts of the empire. 
 

 462 MARKETING TABLES. 
 
 From One Farthing to Five Pence per Pound, §c. 
 
 No. of 
 Pounds, 
 Yards, 
 &c. 
 
 One 
 
 Farth. 
 
 Half¬ 
 
 penny 
 
 Three 
 
 Farths. 
 
 One 
 
 Penny. 
 
 Two 
 
 Pence. 
 
 Three 
 
 Pence. 
 
 Four 
 
 Pence. 
 
 Five 
 
 Pence. 
 
 
 s . 
 
 d . 
 
 S , 
 
 d . 
 
 S ' 
 
 d . 
 
 s . 
 
 d . 
 
 s . 
 
 d . 
 
 £ 
 
 s . 
 
 d 
 
 £ 
 
 s . 
 
 d . 
 
 £ 
 
 s . 
 
 d . 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 0§ 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 H 
 
 0 
 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 0| 
 
 0 
 
 1* 
 
 0 
 
 2 k 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 H 
 
 0 
 
 2 h 
 
 0 
 
 H 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 H 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 4 h 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
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 9 
 
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 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
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 0 
 
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 8 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
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 0 
 
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 0 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
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 0 
 
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 0 
 
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 0 
 
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 3 
 
 9 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 H 
 
 0 
 
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 0 
 
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 0 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
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 11 
 
 0 
 
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 0 
 
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 0 
 
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 0 
 
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 4 
 
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 12 
 
 0 
 
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 3 
 
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 13 
 
 0 
 
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 9| 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
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 4 
 
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 14 
 
 0 
 
 H 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 10i 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 34 
 
 0 
 
 n 
 
 0 
 
 111 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
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 6 
 
 0 
 
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 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
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 6 
 
 3 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
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 6 
 
 8 
 
 17 
 
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 41 
 
 4 
 
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 8* 
 
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 1 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
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 4 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 18 
 
 0 
 
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 0 
 
 9 
 
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 1 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 19 
 
 0 
 
 4 | 
 
 0 
 
 9§ 
 
 1 
 
 24 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
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 6 
 
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 7 
 
 11 
 
 20 
 
 0 
 
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 10 
 
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 4 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 21 
 
 0 
 
 H 
 
 0 
 
 104 
 
 1 
 
 3§ 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
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 3 
 
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 7 
 
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 8 
 
 9 
 
 22 
 
 0 
 
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 0 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 4 i- 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
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 0 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 23 
 
 0 
 
 H 
 
 0 
 
 11J 
 
 1 
 
 64 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 '7 
 
 24 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 25 
 
 0 
 
 H 
 
 1 
 
 OJ 
 
 1 
 
 64 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 G 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 26 
 
 0 
 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 74 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 8- 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 27 
 
 0 
 
 6 I 
 
 1 
 
 n 
 
 1 
 
 81 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 3 
 
 28 
 
 0 
 
 7 4 
 
 l 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 29 
 
 0 
 
 7 i 
 
 1 
 
 21 
 
 1 
 
 9| 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 30 
 
 0 
 
 7 h 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 10* 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 6 
 
 31 
 
 0 
 
 7s 
 
 1 
 
 d 2 
 
 1 
 
 114 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 11 
 
 32 
 
 0 
 
 8“ 
 
 l 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 33 
 
 0 
 
 8* 
 
 1 
 
 di 
 
 2 
 
 OJ 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 9 
 
 34 
 
 0 
 
 8 £ 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 14 
 
 2 
 
 10 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
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 11 
 
 4 
 
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 14 
 
 2 
 
 35 
 
 0 
 
 8i 
 
 1 
 
 51 
 
 2 
 
 2 i 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 7 
 
 36 
 
 0 
 
 9 4 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 37 
 
 0 
 
 H 
 
 1 
 
 61 
 
 2 
 
 34 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 5 
 
 38 
 
 0 
 
 
 l 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 39 
 
 0 
 
 91 
 
 1 
 
 7 h 
 
 2 
 
 5 i 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 3 
 
 40 
 
 0 
 
 io 4 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 8 
 
 41 
 
 0 
 
 IOjl 
 
 1 
 
 8i 
 
 2 
 
 6| 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 6 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 1 
 
 42 
 
 0 
 
 lol 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 6 
 
 43 
 
 0 
 
 lol 
 
 1 
 
 9i 
 
 2 
 
 8 i 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 11 
 
 44 
 
 0 
 
 ll 4 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 18 
 
 4 
 
 45 
 
 0 
 
 Hi 
 
 1 
 
 101 
 
 2 
 
 9| 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 18 
 
 9 
 
 46 
 
 0 
 
 11* 
 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 101 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 7 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 19 
 
 2 
 
 47 
 
 0 
 
 111 
 
 
 111 
 
 2 
 
 114 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 
 7 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 19 
 
 7 
 
 48 
 
 1 
 
 o 4 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 l 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 49 
 
 1 
 
 0i 
 
 2 
 
 01 
 
 3 
 
 04 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 4 
 
 l 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 50 
 
 1 
 
 0i 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 n 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 56 
 
 1 
 
 2 2 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 18 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 84 
 
 l 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 6 
 
 l 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 l 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 10C 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 16 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 l 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 112 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 
 18 
 
 8 
 
 l 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
MARKETING TABLES. 463 
 
 From Sixpence to One Shilling per Pound, fyc. 
 
 No. of 
 Pounds, 
 Yards, 
 &c. 
 
 Six 
 
 Pence. 
 
 Seven 
 
 Pence. 
 
 Eight 
 
 Pence. 
 
 Nine 
 
 Pence. 
 
 Ten 
 
 Pence. 
 
 Eleven 
 
 Pence. 
 
 One 
 
 Shilling. 
 
 
 £ 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 £ 
 
 s. 
 
 d 
 
 £ 
 
 S. 
 
 d. 
 
 £ 
 
 S. 
 
 d 
 
 £ 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 £ 
 
 s. 
 
 d. 
 
 £ 
 
 5. 
 
 d. 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 l 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 i 
 
 e 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 C 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 C 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 G 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 s 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 G 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 C 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 G 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 6 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 G 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 0 lo 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 G 
 
 G 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 0 10 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 G 
 
 o li 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 3 
 
 0 12 
 
 G 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 1 C 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 0 13 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 1G 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 0 
 
 S 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 9 
 
 0 14 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 0 
 
 18 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 G 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 e 
 
 0 15 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 18 
 
 0 
 
 19 
 
 0 
 
 9 
 
 G 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 3 
 
 0 15 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 19 
 
 0 
 
 20 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 > 16 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 18 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 21 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 9 
 
 ) 17 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 19 
 
 3 
 
 l 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 22 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 S 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 0 18 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 23 
 
 0 
 
 11 
 
 G 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 3 
 
 0 19 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 L 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 24 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 18 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 I 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 2a 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 G 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 18 
 
 S 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 2G 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 19 
 
 6 
 
 l 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 27 
 
 0 
 
 13 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 9 
 
 9 
 
 18 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 3 
 
 l 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 l 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 28 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 18 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 L 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 l 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 29 
 
 0 
 
 14 
 
 G 
 
 0 
 
 16 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 19 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 l 
 
 6 
 
 7 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 0 
 
 30 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 G 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 l 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 l 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 l 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 31 
 
 0 
 
 15 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 18 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 5 
 
 l 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 32 
 
 0 
 
 1G 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 18 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 l 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 L 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 L 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 
 l 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 33 
 
 0 
 
 1G 
 
 G 
 
 0 
 
 19 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 l 
 
 4 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 3 
 
 l 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 34 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 19 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 C 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 4 
 
 l 
 
 11 
 
 2 
 
 l 
 
 11 
 
 0 
 
 35 
 
 0 
 
 17 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 G 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 9 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 1 
 
 l 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 30 
 
 0 
 
 18 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 l 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 l 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 0 
 
 37 
 
 0 
 
 18 
 
 6 
 
 l 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 l 
 
 4 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 L 
 
 10 
 
 10 
 
 l 
 
 13 
 
 11 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 0 
 
 38 
 
 0 
 
 19 
 
 0 
 
 l 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 8 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 8 
 
 l 
 
 14 
 
 10 
 
 l 
 
 18 
 
 0 
 
 39 
 
 0 
 
 19 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 l 
 
 9 
 
 3 
 
 L 
 
 12 
 
 G 
 
 l 
 
 15 
 
 9 
 
 L 
 
 19 
 
 0 
 
 40 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 l 
 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 l 
 
 6 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 4 
 
 l 
 
 16 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 41 
 
 l 
 
 0 
 
 G 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 11 
 
 l 
 
 7 
 
 4 
 
 l 
 
 10 
 
 9 
 
 L 
 
 14 
 
 2 
 
 l 
 
 17 
 
 7 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 42 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 6 
 
 l 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 l 
 
 11 
 
 C 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 18 
 
 G 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 43 
 
 l 
 
 1 
 
 G 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 1 
 
 l 
 
 8 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 3 
 
 l 
 
 15 
 
 10 
 
 1 
 
 19 
 
 5 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 44 
 
 l 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 5 
 
 8 
 
 l 
 
 9 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 0 
 
 L 
 
 1G 
 
 8 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 45 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 6 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 10 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 13 
 
 9 
 
 1 
 
 17 
 
 6 
 
 2 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 2 
 
 5 
 
 0 
 
 4G 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 G 
 
 10 
 
 l 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 1 
 
 14 
 
 G 
 
 l 
 
 18 
 
 4 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 6 
 
 0 
 
 47 
 
 1 
 
 3 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 7 
 
 6 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 4 
 
 1 
 
 15 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 19 
 
 2 
 
 2 
 
 3 
 
 1 
 
 2 
 
 7 
 
 0 
 
 48 
 
 1 
 
 4 
 
 0 
 
 l 
 
 8 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 12 
 
 0 
 
 1 
 
 1G 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
 0 
 
 0 
 
 2 
 
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 16 
 
 9 
 
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 13 
 
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 17 
 
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 17 
 
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JENNINGS’S CODE OF USEFUL KNOWLEDGE. 
 
 THE FAMILY CYCLOPAEDIA; 
 
 A Dictionary of Useful and Necessary Knowledge in Domestic 
 Economy, Agriculture, Chemistry, and the Arts; including the 
 most approved Modes of Treatment of Diseases, Accidents, and 
 Casualties. 
 
 By JAMES JENNINGS, Esq. 
 
 In one large Volume, 8vo. price £1. 7s. in boards. 
 
 This very useful work contains upwards of fourteen hundred 
 closely-printed pages, comprising as much matter as is frequently 
 contained in six ordinary sized volumes. The following are the 
 opinions of the Reviewers on its merits : — 
 
 “ As a book of daily reference, the Family Cyclopedia is 
 really invaluable ; it forms a portable Library of Useful Know¬ 
 ledge, of easy reference, and contains a great variety of informa¬ 
 tion not to be found in other works of similar pretensions, and of 
 greater magnitude.” 
 
 “ It contains a large mass of information on subjects connected 
 with the Domestic Economy of Life. In matters of Science and 
 the Arts, the selections are all from sources of the best authority, 
 and treated in a clear and familiar manner. As a book of daily 
 reference in the common concerns of life, its great practical utility 
 will, no doubt, ensure it a ready introduction, and a favourable re¬ 
 ception in every intelligent family.” 
 
 “ The able manner in which this work is executed, affords 
 satisfactory evidence that the editor is thoroughly acquainted with 
 the subject. It is a valuable multum in yarto.” 
 
 A VALUABLE PRESENT FOR SERVANT MAIDS. 
 
 THE FEMALE SERVANT’S GUIDE AND ADVISER; 
 
 or, The Seiivice Instructor. 
 
 Illustrated with Plates, exhibiting the Methods of setting out 
 Dinner Tables, price 3s. 
 
 This Work has an emphatical claim to the sanction of Masters 
 and Mistresses, as, by its directions and instructions, Servants 
 are enabled to perform the various occupations of service in an 
 efficient and a satisfactory manner, and are informed of the 
 methods of occasioning large saving in the management and use 
 nf their Employer’s Household Property and Provis ons: in fact, it 
 embraces the interests and welfare of the great family of mankind— 
 Masters and Servants. 
 
 “ By the present of a copy of the Work to each of their Ser¬ 
 vants, Employers may safely calculate on the saving of many 
 pounds a year in their expenditure .”—Taunton Courier. 
 
 London: printed for Sherwood, Gilbert, and Piper, 
 Paternoster Row. 
 

 INDEX. 
 
 Acid, pure acetic, 333,336 
 Acids, 202 
 
 A-la-mode beef, 129 
 Ale, quantity of malt to brew a barrel 
 of, 381 
 
 Almond bon-bons, 318 
 
 , .cheese cakes, 302 
 
 [ | .custards, 302 
 
 Almonds, milk of, 311 
 
 J .Jordan, 311 
 
 I ; ..confection of, 311 
 
 I .bitter, 312 
 
 Allspice, 187 
 
 Anacreon on wine and company, xi 
 
 I Anchovies, Essence of, 183 
 Anchovy-sauce, 184 
 Ancient Cookery, description of, in 
 Homer’s Odyssey, ix 
 Animal food, early uses of, iii 
 
 , . salting of, 347, 349 
 
 Apicii, the, great gourmands, xiv 
 Appennines, animals of the, xxiv 
 | Apple-pie, 274 
 
 [ J .pudding, 21>6 
 
 I jj .dumplings, 256 
 
 I; .sauce, 174 
 
 i Apples, 275 
 
 I .and other fruit, to keep, 356 
 
 ■ II .for tarts, 280 
 
 | .the best for cyder, 389, 390 
 
 I . the great harvest for, 390 
 
 I , . roasted, 431 
 
 3 .decoction of, 432 
 
 Apricots, 281 
 
 Ardent spirits, outcry against, 386 
 Aromatique Vinaigre, 335, 336 
 Arrow-root, 426 
 
 Artichoke-bottoms fricasseed, 112 
 
 I ! .ragout, 120 
 
 Artichokes, 224 
 
 l ,, . boiled, 225 
 
 .Jerusalem, 230 
 
 Asparagus, to boil, 223 
 
 I ! . ragout, 120 
 
 Bacon, the best, 106 
 
 1 ll .uses of, 106, 107 
 
 M j .to cure, 350 
 
 W | .to fry, 77 
 
 .to boil, 448 
 
 Baking, directions for, 55 
 
 | .bread, 361 
 
 i .. with leaven, 367 
 
 i Balneum malre, or water-bath distilla¬ 
 tion, 407 
 
 Barbacued pig, 14 1 
 
 Barberries, 194 
 
 .to preserve, 343, 344 
 
 Barley, 207 
 
 .uses of, 208 
 
 . prepared, 208 
 
 .useof, malted & unmalted, 375 
 
 .water, 4, 5 
 
 Basil, 194 
 Bath-cakes, 291 
 Batter, to mix, 247 
 
 . pudding, 251 
 
 Bay, 193 
 Beans, 211 
 
 .kidney, 210 
 
 .. Windsor, 212 
 
 .French, 220 
 
 Beasts, clean and unclean, v 
 Bechamel, 164 
 Beef-a-la-mode, 129 
 
 .a-la-daub, 130 
 
 .a-l’Ecarlate, 134 
 
 .to boil salt, 5, 6 
 
 .an isch or edge-bone (economi¬ 
 cal), 6 
 
 .a sirloin in epigram, 133 
 
 .tremblant, 131 
 
 .a-la-royal, 131 
 
 .olives, 131 
 
 .boulli, 132 
 
 . Portugal, 132 
 
 .to collar, 329 
 
 .to hash, 102 
 
 . to roast, 42 
 
 .brains, 141 
 
 .en marinade, 142 
 
 . broth, 37 
 
 .gobbets, 91 
 
 .hung, 353 
 
 .potted, 325 
 
 .ragout of, 115 
 
 .sausages, 355 
 
 .scollops, 129 
 
 .skirt, 165 
 
 .steaks, to fry, 72 
 
 .stewing and frying, 91 
 
 . rolled, 134 
 
 .broiling, 64 
 
 .steak-pie, Q69 
 
 .pudding, 269 
 
 . tea, 422 
 
 Beer, what, 376 
 
 .how to brew strong and small, 383 
 
 .spruce, 387 
 
 .ginger, 388 
 
 . to correct acid, 389 
 
INDEX 
 
 4 66 
 
 Beet, 329 
 
 .fricassee of, 230 
 
 . sea-leaves of, 220 
 
 .root, to pickle, 344 
 
 Beurre de Anchoise, or butter of an¬ 
 chovies, 164 
 
 .aux fines herbes, 165 
 
 .de piment, 164 
 
 .noir, or black butter, 165 
 
 Bill of fare by Congreve, xvii 
 Bills of fare, lxxxii 
 Birds, unclean, iv 
 Biscuit, observations on, 299 
 
 .sponge, 297 
 
 .Naples, 299 
 
 . Le Man’s, 299 
 
 .sweet, 300 
 
 . drop, 300 
 
 .Somersetshire, 300 
 
 Blackberries and dewberries, 278 
 Blacking balls, 449 
 
 .liquid, 4.50 
 
 Black-puddings, 259 
 Blanc, 166 
 Blancmange, 308 
 
 .a simple, 309 
 
 .a Dutch, 309 
 
 Blister-plaster, 439s 
 Blue, liquid, 456 
 
 Boiling, general directions for, l, 2 
 
 .. beef, 5 
 
 . fish, 12 
 
 Bologna sausages, xxv, 355 
 Bombarded veal, 127 
 Bon-bons, nut, 318 
 
 .almond, 318 
 
 .lemon or orange, 319 
 
 Bonne-bouche for gourmands, 240, 246 
 Boot-tops, liquid for, 457 
 Borage, 191 
 
 Bottles, to loosen the stoppers of, 453 
 Braising, what, 168 
 Brandy, how obtained, 408 
 
 .the best for distilling liqueurs, 
 
 417 
 
 .as a stimulant, 435 
 
 .cherry, raspberry, and other 
 
 fruits, 414 
 Brawn, mock, 330 
 Bread, early use of, vii 
 
 .of Vienna, xxxvii 
 
 . importance of well-baking, 362, 
 
 363 
 
 ..grains used in making, 362 
 
 . metropolitan, 363, 372 
 
 .Dr. Paris’s opinion of, 364 
 
 .time of baking, 365 
 
 .grain employed in, 366 
 
 .use of potatoes in, 366 
 
 .sugar in,366 
 
 .unleavened, 367 
 
 .yeast nr leaven in, 367 
 
 .good, for a family, 369, 370 
 
 . french, 371 
 
 .potato, 372 
 
 .kneading of, 373 
 
 .and butter pudding, 263 
 
 .crumbs, braised, 175 
 
 .pudding, 250 
 
 .sauce, 175 
 
 Brewing, general observations on, 
 375 
 
 .from malt, 376 
 
 .heat of water for, 377 
 
 .best time for, 378 
 
 .water for, 379 
 
 .ingredients used in, 380, 381 
 
 .ale, 381 
 
 .strong and small beer, 383 
 
 . porter, 384 
 
 . fining, 385 
 
 Bride-cakes, 295 
 Brill, to boil, 13 
 
 Brisket of beef, French method o 
 stewing, 90 
 Brocoli, boiled, 221 
 Broiling, 63 
 
 Broth, mutton, veal, chicken, pork, 
 423, 424 
 
 .cheap and quickly made, 36 
 
 .mutton, 36 
 
 .veal, 36 
 
 .Scotch barley, 36 
 
 . various, 36, 37 
 
 Broths, general directions for making, 
 27 
 
 .to thicken, 27 
 
 .to flavour, 27 
 
 Browning, to make, 28 
 Brown stock clear, 28 
 Bubble and squeak, 77 
 Bugs, to prevent, 450 
 Buljace, 276 
 
 Bullock’s heart, baked, 57 
 Buns, plain, cross, plum, seed, 289 
 
 .buttered, 290 
 
 .Bath, 291 
 
 .and cakes, observations on, 287 
 
 Butcher’s meat, baking of, 56 
 Butter, first mention of, iii 
 
 .how to judge, lxxv 
 
 .to purity fresh, 23 
 
 .to purify salt, 24 
 
 .melted, 165 
 
 . and sugar, to mix, 288 
 
 Cabbage, known to the ancient Greeks, 
 
 .221 
 
 .boiled, 222 
 
 . to pickle red, 344 
 
 .and bacon, to fry, 77 
 
 . Dr. Paris on, 359 
 
 .ragout, 121 
 
 Cake, a Berkshire, 290 
 
 .a plum, 293 
 
 .a fermented plum, 293 
 
 .a plum, without flour, 294 
 
 .a pound, 294 
 
 .twelfth, 295 
 
 Cakes, to bake plum, 288 
 
 .bread, 292 
 
 .bride, 295 
 
 . Bristol, 296 
 
 .Shrewsbury, 296 
 
 . Hyde-Park-Corner, 296 
 
 .Diet Bread, 296 
 
 .rice, 296 
 
 .queen, 296 
 
 . cheese, 301, 302 
 
 .for icings, 301 
 
INDEX 
 
 467 
 
 Calabria, climate and produce of, xxiv 
 
 . animals of, ib. 
 
 Calf’s brains, to fry, 75 
 
 .feet, 75 
 
 . fricasseed, log 
 
 .jelly, 309 
 
 . ragout of, 1 18 
 
 .head, to boil, 3 
 
 . to hash,4 
 
 .to bake, 4, 57 
 
 .hashed, 102 
 
 .potted, 330 
 
 Calf’s head, to roast, 43 
 
 .stewed, 96 
 
 .surprize, 125, 126 
 
 Calf’s heart, baked, 58 
 Calomel pills, 434 
 Camphor, 202 
 Camp vinegar, 337 
 Candied orange chips, 317 
 
 .and lemon peel, 317 
 
 .ginger, 318 
 
 Candies, 317 
 
 Capers, and their substitutes, 195 
 Caper-sauce, 174 
 Capillaire, 321 
 Capon, to roast, 51 
 Carraway-seeds, 192 
 Carbonate of potash, 368 
 Cardoon, The, 225 
 
 Carnival, Shrove Tuesday the end of 
 the, xxviii 
 Carp, to bake, 61 
 
 .to boil, 16 
 
 .to fry, 82 
 
 .to stew, 15 
 
 Carrots, 228 
 
 . to boil, 228 
 
 Carving, directions for, lxxxi, lxxxviii 
 Cassia, 188 
 
 .buds, 188 
 
 Castor oil, 433 
 Catchup, walnut, 340 
 
 . mushroom, 342 
 
 Caudle, 428 
 Cauliflowers, 220 
 
 . preparing for boiling, 221 
 
 . and cabbages to keep, 357, 
 
 359 
 
 . to pickle, 345 
 
 . ragout, 120 
 
 Caviare, how to make, lxxiv 
 Cayenne pepper, 189 
 Celery, 192 
 
 .use of the seeds, 26 
 
 .sauce, 182 
 
 Cervelas fumes, or saveloys, 140 
 Chamomile flowers, wild best, 389 
 
 . tea, 429 
 
 Cheese, to choose, lxxvi 
 Cheese-cakes, 301 
 
 .potato and other, 301 
 
 .lemon, almond, and 
 
 bread,302 
 
 Chemical processes, 361 
 Cherries, 276 
 
 .to preserve, 316 
 
 Cherry-brandy, 414 
 
 .laurel, 194 
 
 Chervil, 194 
 
 Chesnut trees of Lucca, xxv 
 Chicken, to boil, 9 
 
 .to broil, 65 
 
 .broth, 37, 423 
 
 .fried, 76 
 
 Chickens cherinrathe, 147 
 
 .a la braise, 147 
 
 .with lemon sauce, 148 
 
 .currie of, 1 56 
 
 .fricasseed, 1 1 1 
 
 .to roast, 52 
 
 .to stew, 96 
 
 Chilblains, applications for, 441 
 Chili Vinegar, 336 
 Chocolate, 237 
 Chops, to broil, 65, 66 
 Cinnamon, 188 
 
 . water, 224 
 
 Citron, the, 195 
 Clary, 191 
 
 Cleanliness, necessity of, 422 
 Cloves, 187 
 
 Clysters, or glysters, 439, 440 
 
 .apparatus for, 440 
 
 Cocculus indicus, a poison, 380 
 Cochineal, prepared, 418 
 Cocoa, 237 
 Cod, to boil, 13 
 
 . head and shoulders, 14 
 
 . sounds, to dress, 14 
 
 . salt, to boil, 14 
 
 . broiling, 66 
 
 .to stew, 99 
 
 . American method for boiling salt, 
 
 15 
 
 . ’s head,to bake, 60 
 
 . roasted, 60 
 
 . ’s sounds, broiled, 67 
 
 . ..to fricassee, 1 is 
 
 Codlings, to boil, 18 
 Coffee, 236 
 Collared eels, 331 
 
 . salmon, mackerel, and other 
 
 fish, 331 
 Collaring, 328 
 
 . beef, 329 
 
 . veal, 329 
 
 . a calf’s head, 330 
 
 . a side of venison, 330 
 
 . mock brawn, 330 
 
 Colouring matter, 200 
 Compote of cherries, 320 
 
 . of raspberries and other fruits, 
 
 321 
 
 Compound extract of colocynth pills, 
 434 
 
 Condiments, the simple, 186 
 Conserve of roses, 319 
 
 . ripe fruits, 319 
 
 . apples, pears, quinces, 320 
 
 Cookery, influence of, xlv 
 
 .of the early ages, xlvi 
 
 Cool tankard, 421 
 Coriander seeds, 192 
 Corn, consumption of, in England, xliit 
 Coulis, cullis, or thick gravy, 167 
 
 . family, 167 
 
 . for ragouts, 167 
 
 . for fish, 167 
 
 . a simple, 168 
 
468 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Cow-heels, to dress, 8 
 Crab, mock, 154 
 
 .verjuice, 338 
 
 Cranberries, 278 
 
 Craw-fish soup, 35 
 
 Cray-fish, to stew, 100 
 
 Cream, injurious qualities of, 245, 288 
 
 . pudding, 252 
 
 . hartshorn, ice, 304 
 
 . raspberry, whipped, 305 
 
 Creams, 303 
 
 Creme de cedrats distillees, 417 
 
 .moka, 419 
 
 Crimp cod, 67 
 
 Croute au pot, 230 
 
 Cress, the pepper or garden, 233 
 
 Crumpets, 292 
 
 Cucumber, the, 226 
 
 .ragout, 121 
 
 Cucumbers, to pickle, 345 
 
 . stew, 98 
 
 Curd puffs, 232 
 Currant jam, 307 
 .jelly, 310 
 
 .wine, 399 
 
 Currants, 253 
 
 .red,277 
 
 .black, 277 
 
 .to preserve, 315 
 
 .to preserve red, 344 
 
 Currie powder, 170, 171 
 Curries, 156 
 
 Custards, baked, almond and plain, 302 
 
 .orange and lemon,303 
 
 Cyder, early directions for making, viil 
 
 .the best apples for, 389 
 
 .process of making, 391 
 
 .use of sugar in, 392 
 
 .....merits of good, 392 
 
 .Mr. Phillip’s Poem on, 393 
 
 Damson puddings, 257 
 Damsons, dried, 318 
 
 ..to preserve, 315 
 
 Dandelion, 234 
 Dates, 245 
 
 Diet bread cakes, 227 
 Digester, disadvantages of the, 86 
 Dinners, evil of late, 241 
 Dish, uneconomical, 56 
 Distillation, process of, 405, 407 
 Distilled vinegar, 338 
 
 .waters, 412 
 
 Dried fish, boiling of, 12 
 Dripping to purify, 23 
 Duck a la mode, 148 
 
 .a la braise, 148 
 
 .a la Francoise, 148 
 
 .to boil, 10 
 
 .with pease, 97 
 
 .to roast, 51 
 
 ..to stew, 97 
 
 ...sauce for, ISO 
 
 Dyspepsia, meaning of the word, 246 
 
 Economical fried dishes, 77 
 
 Eel pie, 273 
 
 ....soup, 34 
 
 Eels, to bake, 62 
 
 .to broil, 68 
 
 .to fricassee, 113, 114 
 
 .to fry,83 
 
 Eels, to kill, and boil, 18 
 
 . collared, 33 1 
 
 . potted, 327 
 
 . spitchcocked, 63 
 
 . stewed, 100 
 
 . skinning, 63 
 
 Egg-sauce, 172 
 Eggs, to choose, Ixxvi 
 
 . and bacon, 77 
 
 . anecdote of, 78 
 
 . boiling of, 21 
 
 . hard, unwholesome, 22, 116 
 
 . for salad, 116 
 
 . poached, 22 
 
 . the most unwholesome method of 
 
 dressing, 22 
 
 .fricasseed, 111 
 
 . with onions, &c. 112 
 
 Egyptian cookery, iii 
 
 . food, vi 
 
 Elder, ointment of, 411 
 
 . juice of ripe berries, 441 
 
 .wine. 400 
 
 Endive, 233 
 
 . ragout, 121 
 
 English cookery, xl 
 
 Entertainments, the first regular, ii, iii 
 
 . given by Solomon, vii 
 
 Epsom salts, 433 
 Esquebaugh, 418 
 Essence of anchovies, l S3 
 
 . d’asaortiment, 163 
 
 .d’ail, or garlic, 164 
 
 . de gibier, 164 
 
 . de volaille, 164 
 
 . of ham, 171 
 
 . of spruce,388 
 
 . of vinegar, 335 
 
 Extractive matter, 200 
 Farce cuite, 159 
 Fat animals deprecated, xl 
 Fat, how to purify, 22, 24 
 
 . uses of with Hour, 207 
 
 Fawn, to roast a, 41 
 Fennel, 192 
 .sauce, 184 
 
 Fermentation, difference between the 
 of beer and cyder, 390 
 Feet, remarks on calves, &c. 75 
 Fetes, splendid, given by Fouis XVIII, 
 xxxi 
 
 .by the National Guard, ib. 
 
 .military, at Paris, xxxii 
 
 Figs, 244 
 
 . toasted, 432 
 
 Fining malt liquors, 385 
 Fish, clean and unclean, v 
 
 .eaten by the Romans, xviii 
 
 .how to choose, lxxii, lxxv 
 
 . baking,62 
 
 .. boiling, 12 
 
 . broiling, 64 
 
 . collared, 331 
 
 .pickling, 346, 347 
 
 .roasting, 54 
 
 ......to fricassee, 112, 113 
 
 .to stew, 98, 99 
 
 . liquor for stewing, 99 
 
 . various, potted, 327 
 
 .sauces, 182 
 
INDEX 
 
 469 
 
 
 
 n j 
 
 lk 
 
 Fish soup, stock for, 34 
 Flat fish and flounders, to fricassee, 
 Floor-cloths,painted, 454 
 Florence famous for oil, xxv 
 Florendine rabbit, 152 
 
 .hare, 152 
 
 Florentines, conviviality of the, xxiv 
 Flounders, to boil, 17 
 Flour, superiority of American, 370 
 Flummery, yellow, 308 
 
 |.French, 310 
 
 Fly-water, 453 
 
 Foies gras or fat livers how obtained, 
 
 XXX 
 
 Food,preparations of, recorded in Scrip¬ 
 ture, ii 
 
 [.vegetable, of the Jews, v 
 
 ........ French catalogue of, xxxiii 
 
 Forcemeat-balls, English, 158 
 Forks, silver, 241,242 
 Fowl a la braise, 146 
 
 ..forced, 146 
 
 .marinaded, 146 
 
 .to boil, 9 
 
 ; [.to roast, 51 
 
 i.to stew, 96 
 
 ..stuffing for, 52 
 
 ..sauces for, 180 
 
 Fowls, trussing, lxxix 
 French cookery, modern, xxx 
 
 .beans, 220 
 
 .ragout of, 1 21 
 
 ..to keep, 357 
 
 .bread, to make, 371 
 
 .method ol stewing rump or bris¬ 
 ket of beef, 9o 
 Fricandeau of veal, 123 
 [Fricassee, a brown, 110 
 
 ..a white, 110 
 
 Fricassees, observations on, 105, 108 
 
 L.and ragouts, French, xxx 
 
 Fritters, 313 
 
 Frontiniac wine, to make, 400 
 Fruit, introduction of, xli 
 
 .observations on preserving, 314 
 
 .pies, 315 
 
 [Fruits used by the Jews, vi 
 Frying, 70 
 
 .lard for, 71 
 
 j.heat for, 71 
 
 .thickness of steaks and chops 
 
 in, 72 
 
 Furmerty or Firmity, 313 
 Furniture-balls, 455 
 Game, how to choose, lxxii 
 
 . sauce for, 180 
 
 j. soup, 34 
 
 Gammon of pork, to roast, 45, 46 
 Garlic-sauce, 174 
 
 Geese, estimate of, in France, xxix 
 Gentian used in brewing, 381 
 German cookery, xxxvii 
 Giblet pie, 27 1 
 
 .soup,33 
 
 [Giblets, to stew, 96, 97 
 Gin, strength o f , 409 
 
 '[.uses of, 336 
 
 [Ginger, 188 
 
 [. use of, 27 
 
 ?.beer, how made, 388 
 
 
 
 Ginger, candied, 318 
 
 .wine, 401 
 
 . powder for beer, 458 
 
 Gingerbread, antiquity of, xxvii 
 
 .nuts, 29b 
 
 Glaubers’ salts, 434 
 Glaze, to make, 169 
 Gluten, 88 , 199 
 Godiveau, 157 
 Goose, to boil a, 11 
 
 .to roast a stubble, 50 
 
 .a green, 51 
 
 .a wild, 51 
 
 .a savoury dish, 143 
 
 .a-la-mode, 143 
 
 .marinaded, 144 
 
 . ragout, 118 
 
 .sauces for, 179 
 
 Gooseberries, 277 
 
 . to preserve,315 
 
 Gooseberry-fool, 320 
 
 .jam, 307 
 
 . pudding, 257 
 
 .sauce, 174 
 
 .vinegar, to make, 335 
 
 .wine, 399 
 
 Grape, origin of the, 395 
 
 .varieties of, in England, 396 
 
 Grapes, to preserve, 356 
 Gravies for omelets, 79 
 Gravy, adding wine to, 74 
 
 __beef, 168 
 
 . a rich, 168 
 
 .brown, 169 
 
 . for snipes or woodcocks, II 
 
 .soup, 29 
 
 Grayling, to broil, 67 
 
 Greeks, culinary arts of the, viii, xiii 
 
 .condiments used by the, xi 
 
 Green peas, to keep, 358 
 
 . and lettuce, to stew, 98 
 
 . soup, 31 
 
 Greengage plums, dried, 318 
 Green sauce, 184 
 Grenade of veal, 124 
 Grenadines of veal, 124 
 Grouse, to dress, 54 
 Gruel, 424 
 
 .from groats, 209 
 
 Guinea-fowl, to dress, 53 
 Gum-arabic, 198 
 Haddock, to boil, 18 
 
 .to broil, 68 
 
 Haggis, a, 139 
 
 .a Scotch, 139 
 
 Ham, a beef, mutton, or veal, 352 
 
 .fault of, in shops, 7 
 
 .to boil, 6 
 
 .to cure, 350, 351,458 
 
 .. ... to roast, 45, 46 
 
 .essence of, 171 
 
 .sauce, 171 
 
 Hare and rabbit pie, 271 
 
 .to hash, 103 
 
 .to jug, 103, 104 
 
 .to roast, 48 
 
 .stuffing for, 48 
 
 .a mock, 49 
 
 .a Florendine, 152 
 
 .sauce for, 172 
 
470 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Hare soup, 32 
 Haricot of Mutton, 135 
 
 . of veal, 123 
 
 Hashing and mincing, 101 
 Hasty-pudding, 255 
 Heart, baked, a bullock’s, 57 
 .a calf’s, 58 
 
 .to boil a bullock’s or calf’s 6 
 
 .to roast, 44 
 
 Herbs, sweet, 192 
 Hermitage Hill, wine of, xxxiv 
 Herrings, to bake, 62 
 
 . to boil, 17 
 
 . to broil, 68 
 
 .to fry, 84 
 
 Hesiod, work of, on agriculture, viii 
 History of cookery, i et seq. 
 Hodge-podge, or Hotch-potch, 137, 138 
 Homer, description of Grecian cookery 
 by, ix 
 
 Honey, early estimation of, iv 
 Hop-tops, to dress, 23 1 
 Hops, use of, 377 
 
 . different opinions of, 340, 379 
 
 Honey of roses, 322 
 Horseradish, lyo 
 
 . root, xtse in soup, 26 
 
 . sauce, 181 
 
 House-lamb, dressed white, 93 
 Hung beef, 353 
 Hunting-pudding, 253 
 Hungary-water, 413 
 Ice-cream, 304 
 Icings for cakes, 301 
 Imperial, 428 
 Indian pickle, 341 
 Ink, to make black, 451 
 
 . to make red, 451 
 
 .to remove form mahogany, 453 
 
 Irons, to prevent their rusting, 454 
 Italian cookery, xix 
 Jack, to bake, 59 
 Jam, 303 
 
 .raspberry, 305 
 
 . gooseberry, 307 
 
 .currant, 307 
 
 . observations on, 307 
 
 Jellies, 308 
 
 Jelly, calves’ feet, 309 
 
 . hartshorn, 3 lo 
 
 . orange and lemon, 310 
 
 . currant, red, black, and white, 
 
 310 
 
 John Dory, to boil a, 17 
 Kid, to roast, 4 I 
 Kidney-beans, 219 
 Kidneys, to broil, 66 
 Kilkenny tripe, 135 
 Lakes, hshof the Italian, xxv 
 Lamb, grass, boiled, 5 
 
 .a leg of, boiled, 5 
 
 . ragout of, 116, 117 
 
 .to'roast a quarter of, 42 
 
 .a leg of, forced, 1 33 
 
 . pie,270 
 
 .chops cn casserole, 139 
 
 . to fry, 74 
 
 Lamb’s bits, 139 
 
 . head, to boil, 8 
 
 . stones fricasseed, 109 
 
 Lampreys, to bake, 62 
 
 . to dress, 84 
 
 . potted, 327 
 
 . stewed, 99 
 
 Larks a-la-Franijoise, 151 
 
 . to roast, 53 
 
 Lavender-water, 412 
 
 .compound spirit of, 413 
 
 Laver, potted, 328 
 Laudanum, use of, 436 
 Leaven, baking with, 367 
 Leeks, to boil, 224 
 Lemonade, 430, 458 
 Lemon, the, 195 
 
 .and orange brandy, 414 
 
 .pickle, 339 
 
 .sauce, 185 
 
 .tarts, 280 
 
 Lemons, to pickle, 339 
 Lent in Portugal, xxxvi 
 Lettuce, the, 233 
 Lime, the, 195 
 Liniment of Ammonia, 437 
 Ling, to boil, 14 
 Linseed, infusion of, 432 
 Liqueurs distillees, 417 
 
 . de quatre fruits jaunes, 419 
 
 Liver, why unwholesome, xxx 
 .fat, ib. 
 
 Livers of poultry, ragout of, 11 9 
 Lobster, potted, 327 
 
 . sauce, 183 
 
 .soup, 35 
 
 Loin of veal, 124 
 
 . in epigram, 124 
 
 Loquot, the, 243 
 
 Lucullus, fruits brought from African 
 Rome by, xiii 
 
 Luxury of the citizens, xlii, xliii 
 Macaroni, how made, xxii 
 
 . 153 
 
 .soup, 30 
 
 Macaroons, 298 
 Mace, 187 
 
 Mackarel, to bake, 67 
 
 . to boil, 16 
 
 . to broil, 67 
 
 . collared, 331 
 
 Madeira wine, to make, 40t 
 Made dishes, 122 
 Mahogany, to darken, 452 
 
 .to take ink out of, 453 
 
 Maids, 10 boil, 13 
 
 Maitre Rotisseurs, company of the, 
 xxvii 
 
 Maltliquors, properties of, 386 
 
 .to correct the acidity of, 389 
 
 Manchets, 290 
 Marjoram, 193 
 Marinade, a, 157 
 
 .an English, 157 
 
 Marmalade, quince, 316 
 
 .of peaches, apples, or pears 
 
 316 
 
 .orange, 316 
 
 .of pears, 307 
 
 Marrow, to purify, 23 
 
 . pudding, 264 
 
 Massepains, 298 
 Mead, to make, 4C2 
 

 INDEX. 47 ] 
 
 leat, howto boil, l 
 
 .observations on potting, salting, 
 
 and preserving, 323 
 ledicinal cookery, 421 
 lediterranean sailors, abstemiousness 
 I of the, xxiv 
 lelted butter, 165 
 
 lelropolilan bread, process of baking, 
 373 
 
 . j.kneading, 373 
 
 lilk and cream, 245 
 
 ,_of almonds, 311 
 
 Jince-pie, 278 
 
 ,. meat, 279 
 
 linced meat pudding, 257 
 
 ft .veal, 102 
 
 lint, 191 
 
 f ;.sauce, 174 
 
 jjock hare, 49 
 |.turtle, 20 
 
 J..a cheap method of making, 21 
 
 - floor-game, to dress, 54 
 ijlorells, 196 
 
 ilucilage of gum arabic or of starch, 433 
 luffins, 291, 292 
 ilulberries, to preserve, 316 
 ? jlullagatawny soup, 242 
 1 fulled wine, 429 
 ilullets, to boil, 16 
 
 ...to broil, 67 
 
 ..to fry, 84 
 
 uscles, to pickle, 347 
 
 .. ragout of, 120 
 
 . to stew, 101 
 
 jlushroom-catchup, 342 
 
 i;. loaves, 156 
 
 il . pickled, 343 
 
 . powder, 343 
 
 . sauce, 181 
 
 m siirooms, meadow, xix 
 
 t. 196,-230 
 
 j.broiled, 231 
 
 !■'.fricasseed, 112 
 
 , ||.ragout of, 120 
 
 Mustard, etymology ot the word, xv 
 Mustard, 189 
 
 . white, 190 , 233 
 
 Mutton, to boil a leg of, with cauli¬ 
 flowers and spinach, 9 
 
 I].to hash, 101 
 
 . haunch of, like venison, 41 
 
 .saddle of, 41 
 
 .leg of, 42 
 
 ..kebobbed, 136 
 
 .a leg of, with a haut-gout, 136 
 
 |j.stuffed with oysters, 137 
 
 1 . sauce for, 180 
 
 |[.broth, 36, 423 
 
 j.pie, 269 
 
 . pudding, 260 
 
 . ragout, 115 
 
 . rumps and kidneys, 137 
 
 S. scollops, 136 
 
 1 .chops, broiling, 65 
 
 j. disguised, 137 
 
 I ! . to fry, 73 
 
 Nankeen dye, 456 
 Naples, wine and corn of, xxiii 
 Neat’s foot, to fry, 75 
 .tongue, to cure a, 352 
 
 Neat’s tongue, fricasseed, 109 
 
 . to stew, 92 
 
 Nectarine, the, 281 
 Nice, fruits of, xxv 
 
 . fish of, xxvi 
 
 Norway cookery, xl 
 Norfolk dumplings, 259 
 Noyaux, or Noyau, 416 
 Nutmegs, 187 
 Nux vomica, a poison, 381 
 Oat or water gruel, 424 
 Oats, 209 
 Oils, fixed, 201 
 
 .essential or volatile, 201 
 
 Olive oil, the olive where obtained, 430 
 Olives of Veal, 123 
 Omelettess a la Fermiere, 80 
 Omelettes, 79 , 80, 155 
 Onions, 190 
 
 . to keep, 356 
 
 .to pickle, 341 
 
 Onion sauce, 172 
 
 . a brown, 173 
 
 Opium, what, 436 
 
 . used in brewing, S81 
 
 Orange, introduction of, into Italy, 
 xv 
 
 .and lemon custards, 303 
 
 .gourd, the, 266 
 
 .marmalade, 316 
 
 .pudding, 264 
 
 . sauce, 185 
 
 .tarts, 280 
 
 .a zest of, 317 
 
 Oranges, 195 
 
 . the Seville, 195 
 
 Orgeat, to make, 420 
 Ox-cheek soup, 30 
 
 . to slew, 93 
 
 Ox-feet jelly and soup, 34 
 Ox-palates, fricasseed, 108 
 
 .marinaded, 92, 93 
 
 . ragout of, 115 
 
 .stewed, 92 
 
 Ox-tail soup, 34 
 Ox-tongues to fry, 74 
 Oxford John, 136 
 
 .sausages, 355 
 
 Oyster to feed, lxxv 
 
 .art of preserving fresh, xiv 
 
 . loaves, 153 
 
 ........ pies, 274 
 
 . sauce,180 
 
 . soup, 35 
 
 Oysters to boil, 19 
 
 .to fricassee, 115 
 
 .to fry, 84 
 
 .to pickle, S47 
 
 .ragout of, 119 
 
 .scolloped, 100 
 
 .to stew, 100 
 
 Paint, to remove, 455 
 Panada, 427 
 Pancakes, 282, 2S4 
 
 . cream, 285 
 
 . rice, 285 
 
 . pink, 286 
 
 Pap, 205, 244 
 
 Parfait Amour or Perfect Love, 418 
 Parmasan cheese, xxv 
 
INDEX 
 
 472 
 
 Parsley, 190 
 
 .and batter, 184 
 
 Parsnips, 229 
 Partridge, to boil a, 11 
 
 .. to dress, 52 , 53 
 
 Partridges a la biaise, 150 
 
 .to hash, 103 
 
 Paste, to make, 453 
 
 .for pies generally, 267 
 
 .for tarts, 268 
 
 .custards and raised pies, 260 
 
 . puff, 269, 270 
 
 .crisp tart, 279 
 
 .. for stringing tartlets, 280 
 
 Pastiles, lemon, 3 19 
 
 . raspberry, ratafia, 319 
 
 ,Pastry, observations on, 265 
 
 .uses and abuses of, 274 
 
 Pastrycooks, associations of, in Paris, 
 xxvii 
 
 Patties, 272 
 
 .fried, 272 
 
 .fine, 272 
 
 Peaches, 281 
 
 .and apricots to preserve, 316 
 
 .dried, 318 
 
 Pea fowls to dress, 52 
 Pears, 276 
 
 .apples, &c. marmalade of, 307 
 
 . to keep, 392 
 
 Peas, 210 
 
 . to boil green, 210 
 
 . to boil dry, 210 
 
 . baked, 211 
 
 . to keep green, 358 
 
 Pease pudding, 258 
 
 . soup, 30, 31 
 
 . green,31 
 
 . water for, 25 
 
 Penny royal, 193 
 
 . water, 411 
 
 Pepper, Spanish, xxxv 
 
 .black or white, 187 
 
 .cayenne, 187 
 
 Peppermint water, 110 
 
 . . essence of, 410 
 
 Perch, to boil, 17 
 
 .to broil, 67 
 
 Perry, to make, 389, 392 
 Pettit patties, 282 
 Pheasant, to boil a, 1 1 
 Pheasants a la braise, 151 
 
 . to dress, 52 
 
 . to hash, 103 
 
 . to stew, 98 
 
 Picalilli, 341 
 
 Pickled pork to boil, 7 
 
 Pickles, 339, 347 
 
 Pickling, directions for, 332 
 
 Pie,beef steak,mutton,veal, & pork, 273 
 
 .eel, 273 
 
 .lamb, venison, and squad, 270 
 
 . hare, rabbit, poultry, and other 
 
 bird, giblet, and pigeon, 271 
 . fish, 273 
 
 .apple and other fruit, 275 
 
 Pies, baking of, 265 
 
 .oys ter, 274 
 
 .fruit, 274 
 
 .raised, 268 
 
 Pies, rhubarb, 277 
 
 .mince, 278 
 
 Pigeon, to boil a, 1 1 
 
 . to broil, 66 
 
 .pie, 271, 272 
 
 .to roast, 52 
 
 Pigeons a la minute, 148 
 
 . en matelote, 148 
 
 . en compote a la braise, 149 
 
 . fricasseed, 1 10 
 
 . jugged, 149 
 
 . a la monarque, 149 
 
 .to stew, 97 
 
 Pig, a baked, 58 
 
 .... barbacued, 141 
 
 .... au Pere Duller, 141 
 
 .... en matelote, 141 
 
 .... to roast, 46 
 
 .... to bake, 47 
 
 .... sauce for, 46, 179 
 
 .... to kill and prepare, 47 
 
 Pig’s feet and ears, ragout of, 118 
 
 . soused, 354 
 
 . petit toes to boil, 7 
 
 Pike, to bake, 50 
 
 . to boil a, 16 
 
 Pikelets, 292 
 Pimenta, 187 
 Pine apple, the, 243 
 Piper, to bake, 60 
 Piquant sauce, 175, 456 
 
 . a la Francoise, 175 
 
 Plaice to boil, 17 
 Plate powder, 456 
 
 . to clean, 456 
 
 Plover, to roast a green, 53 
 
 . to stew, 93 
 
 Plum cake, 293 
 
 . a fermented, 293 
 
 . without flour, 294 
 
 Plum porridge, 37 
 Plums, 276 
 
 . to preserve,315 
 
 Polish, French, 452 
 
 Pomade Divine, 438 
 
 Pomatum, 438 
 
 Pomegranates, 244 
 
 Pompeii, domestic discoveries in, xi' 
 
 Pork, to roast, 44 
 
 . to baste, 45 
 
 .to salt, 353 
 
 .broth or jelly, 424 
 
 .chops, to broil, 65 
 
 .pie, 269 
 
 .sausages, 354 
 
 Portable soup, 33 
 
 Porter, process of brewing, 384, 385 
 
 . ingredient s used in, 385, 386 
 
 Portugal beef, 132 
 Port wine, to make, 401 
 Possets, 429 
 
 Potash cakes, American, 368 
 Potato pudding, 262 
 
 .starch, 215, 425 
 
 Potatoes, 212 
 
 .methods of cooking, 213 
 
 . boiled, 214 
 
 . to fry, 77 
 
 . to keep, 355 
 
 .. use of, in bread, 366 
 
INDEX 
 
 473 
 
 
 otatoes, new, bad, 272 
 
 .scolloped, 214 
 
 .mashed, 214 
 
 at Pourri or preserved flowers, 454 
 otted beef, 325, 326 
 
 i.various meats, 326 
 
 .lobster, 327 
 
 ..... crabs, shrimps, crayfish, See. 
 327 
 
 .eels, lampreys, and other fish, 
 
 327 
 
 IL.laver, 3.8 
 
 at-liquor, use of, 2 
 lotting, advantages of, 324 
 Dultices, to make, 4 32 
 oultry and other bird pies, 271 
 
 .to stew old, 86 
 
 ound cake, 294 
 Irawn, to stew, 100 
 Reserving fruit, observations on, 314 
 roof spirit, what, 189 
 Russian cookery, xxxix 
 ussic acid, 203 
 adding, batter, 251 
 
 I.bread, 250 
 
 I. a cabinet, 250 
 
 i.white, 251, 260 
 
 jl.custard, 252 
 
 j..cream, 252 
 
 i.plain, 252 
 
 1'.hunting, 253 
 
 11.suet or plum, 254 
 
 I |.hasty, 255 
 
 ,. rice, 255, 262 
 
 i I.sago, 255 
 
 .apple, 256 
 
 it..various fruits, 256, 257 
 
 ; .......... pease, 258 
 
 jU. .biscuit, 259 
 
 |$l . black, 259 
 
 v.beef steak, 260 
 
 « ..mutton, 260 
 
 . baked, 261 
 
 4i'..Bath, 262 
 
 #?..amber, 262 
 
 .potato, 262 
 
 .millet, 263 
 
 ..Yorkshire, 263 
 
 tiK . .orange, 264 
 
 .lemon, 264 
 
 L.marrow, 264 
 
 t. transparent, 264 
 
 .quince, 264 
 
 uddings, directions for boiled, 248 
 
 . time for boiling, 249 
 
 .iff paste, 267 
 jiffs, simple, 282 
 
 :i .curd, 282 
 
 ..sugar, 283 
 
 [..almonds, 283 
 
 .lemon, 283 
 
 umpkins to dress, 226 
 junch, to make, in the French and 
 English method, 419,420 
 urgatives, 433 
 
 .for children, 435 
 
 url, 421 
 
 iuails to dress, 54 
 juaking pudding, 252 
 Juassia used in brewing, 381 
 
 Queen cakes, 297 
 Quenelles, 157 
 Quin sauce, 163, 118 
 Quince pudding, 264 
 Quinces, 276 
 Rabbit, to boil a, 9 
 
 . to roast, 47 
 
 . sauce for, 48 
 
 . like hare, 48 
 
 . a Florentine, 152 
 
 .. surprised, 152 
 
 Rabbits en casserole, 153 
 
 . to hash, 102 
 
 Radishes, 232 
 
 Ragouts, made dishes, 105 
 
 .what are, 005 
 
 .white 
 
 Raised pies, 268 
 Raisin wine, 399 
 Ramequins, 153, 154 
 Raspberry brandy, 414 
 
 . jam, 305 
 
 . the, 306 
 
 . pastiles, 319 
 
 Ratafia cakes, 298 
 
 . of various fruits, 414, 415 
 
 .. of noyauxor noyau, 416 
 
 Rectification of spirits, 408 
 Rein-deer, the, of the Laplander, xl 
 Resins, 202 
 
 Rice-fields of Turin, xxv 
 
 .215 
 
 . boiled, 216 
 
 . eaten with currie, 216 
 
 . cake, 297 
 
 . pudding, 255, 262 
 
 . milk, 216 
 
 Rhubarb pie, 277 
 
 .pudding, 259 
 
 boasting, observations on, 38,39 
 Rolls, 293 
 
 Homan gourmands, xiv 
 Romans, cookery of the, xiii 
 
 .fruits and vegetables cultivated 
 
 by the, xv 
 
 .animals of the, xvi 
 
 .pastry of the, xvii 
 
 Rook pie, iv 
 Roots, to keep, 356 
 Rosemary, spirit of, 413 
 Roses, honey of, 322 
 
 .milk of, 452 
 
 .syrup of, 322 
 
 Rose water, 411 
 
 .the best, 412 
 
 Round of beef forced, 153 
 Roux, 166 
 
 .Blanc, 166, 167 
 
 Ruffs and reeves, 53 
 Rump of beef, to bake, 56 
 
 . forced, 133 
 
 . to stew, 90 
 
 . French method, 
 
 90 
 
 Russian cookery, xxxviii 
 
 .poultry, fruits, and vegetables, 
 
 xxxix 
 Rye, 207 
 
 Saccharometer, use of a, 377 
 Sago, 191, 427 
 
474 
 
 INDEX 
 
 Sago pudding, 552 
 Salads, 231 
 
 Salep or saloop, 425, 426 
 Salmon, to boil, 12 
 
 . to broil, 66 
 
 .fresh, 66 
 
 . dried, 66 
 
 . to fricassee, 115 
 
 . to pickle, 13,340 
 
 . baked, 58 
 
 . collared, 231 
 
 Sal prunella, 351 
 
 Salt, how obtained at Sallzburg, xxvi 
 
 . common, 186 
 
 . pet re or nitre, 186 
 
 .for pickling, 458 
 
 . of lemon, 449 
 
 . fish-sauce, for, 15 
 
 .vegetable accompaniments, 15 
 
 Salting, observations on, 347, 349 
 
 .heat or cold to be avoided, 348 
 
 .brine or pickle for, 349, 353 
 
 .vessels for, 349 
 
 Salts, Epsom, 433 
 
 . Glauber’s, 434 
 
 Sauce for roast pig, 46 
 
 . rabbit, 48 
 
 . lobster, 183 
 
 . shrimp, 183 
 
 . anchovy, 184 
 
 ...... fennel, !S4 
 
 . green, 184 
 
 . lemon and orange, 185 
 
 . ham, 171 
 
 . egg, 172 
 
 . for hare, 172 
 
 . onion, 172 
 
 . brown onion, 173 
 
 . shalot, 174 
 
 . garlic, 174 
 
 . mint, 174 
 
 . caper, 174 
 
 . gooseberry, 174 
 
 . apple, 174 
 
 . bread, 175 
 
 . piquant, 175 
 
 .a la Francoise, 175 
 
 . white, 175 
 
 . tomato a la Bourgeoise, 176 
 
 .Italienne, 176 
 
 . tomato, 177 
 
 . tournee, 177 
 
 . sweet, 177 
 
 . for venison, 177 
 
 . for a pig, 179 
 
 . for a green goose, 179 
 
 . Robert, 178 
 
 . for roast meat, 178 
 
 . Indienne, 176 
 
 . Sicilian, 178 
 
 . for turkey, 179 
 
 . fowls, ducks, pheasants, par¬ 
 tridges, and other game, 180 
 
 . for birds, ducks, rabbits, and 
 
 mutton, 180 
 
 . oyster, 180 
 
 . cockle and muscle, 181 
 
 . quin, 181 
 
 . horse-radish, 181 
 
 .. sorrel, 181 
 
 Sauce, mushroom, 181 
 . fish,182 
 
 Sauces, observations on French, 162 
 
 Savoty, 193 
 
 Savoury meat, iii 
 
 Sausage meat, 354 
 
 Sausages, pork, 354 
 
 .Oxford, Bologna, and bee 
 
 xxxv, 355 
 
 .to fry, 76 
 
 Scotch barley broth, 36 
 
 .. scollops, 126, 128 
 
 Scuba, 418 
 
 Spa kale, 224 
 
 Senna, decoction of, 435 
 
 Season, articles in, xciv 
 
 Shalot sauce, 174 
 
 Shalots, to keep, 356 
 
 Sherry, to make, 401 
 
 Shoulder of mutton, surprized, 136 
 
 Shrimp sauce, 183 
 
 Shrimps, to stew, 100 
 
 Shrub, to make, 420 
 
 Sicilian cookery, xxi 
 
 .bread, xxii 
 
 . sauce, 176 
 
 Sirloin, anecdote concerning, xliv 
 
 . of beef in epigram, 133 
 
 ...forced, 133 
 
 Skait, to boil, 18 
 
 . to fricassee, 114 
 
 Skirrets, 230 
 
 .to fricassee, 112 
 
 Smallage, seed of, 161 
 Smelts, to fry, 83 
 Snipes, to boil, 11 
 
 .en surtout, 150 
 
 .to roast, 53 
 
 Soda water, 430 
 Soles, to boil, 15 
 
 .to fricassee, 114 
 
 .fried, 80, 81 
 
 Solomon, his knowledge of botany, vi 
 
 .provision of, for one day, vi 
 
 Song, specimen of a French, xxix 
 Sop in the pan, a, 240 
 Sorrel sauce, 181 
 
 .the wood, 233 
 
 Soup, to clarify, 33 
 
 .maigre, 31 
 
 . cheap, 32 
 
 .portable, 33 
 
 Soups, general observations on, 25 
 ........ use of horse-radish in, 26 
 
 .and sauces, colour for, 28 
 
 Sour beer, to correct, 389 
 .crout, 357 
 
 Sousing tripe, pig’s feet & ears, 353, 35 
 Southey, sketch of Rlr. on board a Spa 
 nish packet, xxxv 
 Soy, Indian, 196 
 Spain, the cookery of, xxxiv 
 
 .fruit of, xxxvi 
 
 Sparrows, to roast, 53 
 Spices, 161 
 
 . not to be long boiled, 26 
 
 Spinach, 222 
 
 .to boil, 222 
 
 .and eggs, 223 
 
 Spirits, excess in drinking, 409 
 
INDEX 
 
 475 
 
 Spirits, use of ardent, 386 
 compound, 413 
 of wine, 414 
 Spits, Portuguese, xxxvi 
 Spongecakes, 297 
 Sprats, to bake, 62 
 to broil, 68 
 
 Spruce beer, how made, 387 
 .... essence of, 388 
 Squab pie, 270 
 Stains, to remove, 434 
 jStarch, 199 
 
 to make potato, 215, 424 
 
 . pure, 424 
 
 Steaks, proper thickness of, 63 
 to broil, 64, 65 
 
 Stewing, observations on, 86 , 89 
 Still, the, 405, 406, 407 
 Stock, to make, 28 
 
 for fish soup, 34 
 
 Stoppers, to loosen, in bottles, 453 
 Strawberries, 306 
 Stuffing for fowls, 159 
 for goose, 50 
 for hare, 43 
 for turkey, 10, 49 
 veal, 128 
 
 Sturgeon, to boil, 17 
 
 . to broil, 66 
 
 Suet, to purify, 22, 24 
 
 .puddings, 254 
 
 Sugar, introduction of, xlviii 
 187, 198 
 clarified, 303 
 small devices in, 303 
 Sweatbread, fricasseed, 108 
 Sweetbreads, to fry, 75 
 .... to roast, 44 
 .... ragout of, 177 
 .... veal, 127, 128 
 .... white, 108 
 
 Syllabub, a, under the cow, 312 
 a whipped, 312 
 Syrup, 321 
 
 of mulberries, of roses, 322 
 simple, 322 
 Tannin, 200 
 Tapioca, 426 
 Tarragon, 194 
 
 .vinegar, to make, 336, 337 
 
 Tartar and cream of tartar, 365 
 Tarts and puffs, 297 
 and tartlets, 280 
 apples for, 280 
 orange and lemon, 280 
 of various fruits, 281 
 introduction of, xlvii 
 234 
 
 not injurious, 235 
 how to make, 235 
 
 .kettle broth, 36 
 
 Teeth, wash for, 452 
 Tench, to boil, 17 
 
 l|. to broil, 67 
 
 to fricassee, 113 
 to fry, 83 
 
 Theocritus, curious notices by, x 
 Thornback, to boil, 18 
 Thyme, common and lemon, 193 
 ’oast, a cider, 155 
 
 ea. 
 
 Toast, dry, 206 
 Tomato chops, 123 
 
 . sauce, 177 
 
 .a la Bourgeoise, 176 
 
 . Italienne, 176 
 
 Tongue, to boil a neat’s, 6 
 
 . to cure a neat’s, 352 
 
 . to roast, 44 
 
 . and udder, 135 
 
 Tooth-powder, 451 
 Tops and botfoms, 300 
 Traiteuror Cuisinier-traiteur, offices of 
 the, xxvii 
 
 Transparent pudding, 264 
 Treacle posset, 429 
 Trifle, to make a, 303 
 Tripe, to boil, S 
 
 .fricasseed, 109 
 
 .to fry, 74 
 
 Trout kept on Mount Cenes, xxv 
 
 .to boil, 16 
 
 .to broil, 67 
 
 . to fry, 83 
 
 Truffle, the, where a native, xxxvii 
 
 .how found, ib. 
 
 Truffles, 196 
 
 Trussing, directions for, lxxvi, Ixxxi 
 Turbot, baked, 58 
 
 .to boil, 13 
 
 .fried, 82 
 
 Turkey,trussing, Ixxvii 
 
 . a la Daube, 14 
 
 .in a hurry, 15 
 
 .with ragout, 
 
 .poults, 50 
 
 .to boil a, 14 
 
 . to roast, 49 
 
 . to stew, 96 
 
 . sauces for, 179 
 
 .and fow s to hash, 102 
 
 Turmeric root, 192 
 Turnips, 227 
 
 .boiled, 227 
 
 .to choose, 228 
 
 Turtle, treatment of, 19 
 . West Indian method of dress¬ 
 ing, 20 
 
 .mock, 20 
 
 Tuscany, cookery of, xxiv 
 
 Twelfth cake, 295 
 
 Veal, to boil like sturgeon, 4 
 
 . sauce to, 4, 5 
 
 . to stew a knuckle, 93, 94 
 
 . a fillet, 94 
 
 . a neck, 95 
 
 .a breast, 95 
 
 . a breast a la Suisse, 95 
 
 . bombarded, 127 
 
 . to collar, 329, 330 
 
 . to roast, 43 
 
 . broth, 36, 423 
 
 . cutlets to fry, 73 
 
 .to broil, 66 
 
 . haricot of, 123 
 
 . fricandeau of, 123 
 
 . olives, 123 
 
 . geraile of, 125 
 
 . grenadines of, 124 
 
 . loin of in epigram, 124 
 
 . pie, 269 
 
INDEX 
 
 476 
 
 Veal,Ragout of, 117 
 
 .'rolls, 125 
 
 . stuffing, 128 
 
 . swealbreads, 127 
 
 . scollops, 126 
 
 . stock, 28 
 
 Vegetable food of the Jew9, v, vi 
 
 . marrow, 225 
 
 Vegetables, indigenous, of France, 
 xxxiii 
 
 . observations on, 197 , 238 
 
 . cookery of, 239 
 
 .directions for boiling green, 
 
 217 
 
 .preservation of, 355 
 
 Veloute, or sauce tournee, 177 
 Venison, to boil a haunch or neck, 5 
 
 . a side of, potted, 330 
 
 . to fry, 74 
 
 . to hash, 101 
 
 . to roast haunch, neck, or 
 
 shoulder, 40 
 
 .pie or pasty, 270 
 
 .sauces for, 177 
 
 Verjuice, 338, 3S9 
 Vermicelli pudding, 263 
 
 .soup, white, 29 
 
 Victuals, a list of the early prices of, 
 xiii 
 
 Villas, Roman, xiii 
 Vine, wild, in America, 396 
 Vinegar, 186 
 
 .observations on, 332, 33? 
 
 .how obtained, 333 
 
 . to make common, 334 
 
 .to flavour, 335, 337 
 
 .to make Tarragon, 335, 337 
 
 .essence of, 335 
 
 .aromatic, 335, 336 
 
 .Chili, 336 
 
 . camp, 337 
 
 ualities, of, 338 
 
 _ istilled, 338 
 
 Vineyards of Portugal, xxxvi 
 Virgin’s milk, 244 
 Vitriol, spirits of, 451 
 Umbles of deer, 138 
 Udders, to roast, 44 
 Wafers, 282 
 Walnut ketchup, 340 
 Walnuts, to keep ripe, 358 
 
 . to pickle, 340, 341 
 
 Warm bathing, 435 
 Water-cresses, 232 
 
 Water, to distil, 412 
 Waters, distilled spirituous, 413 
 Wax, 203 
 Wheat, 204 
 
 .. analysis of, 361, 362 
 
 Wheatears, to roast, 53 
 
 . flour, 207 
 
 .properties of, 247 
 
 Whey, sack, 429 
 Whipped cream, 305 
 Whiskey, strength of, 409 
 W hite bait, 84 
 
 . to dress, 85 
 
 Whitings, to boil, 18 
 
 . to broil, 68 
 
 White pudding, 251,260 
 
 . sauce, 175 
 
 . soup, 29 
 
 .vermicelli soup, 29 
 
 Wortleberries, orWhorts, 277 
 Widgeon, to roa 51 
 Wild fowl, to huso, 103 
 Wine in sauce, how to use, 82 
 
 . lines on, 394 
 
 . the best, where produced, 391 
 
 . British, 395 
 
 .sweetness of English, 397 
 
 . what temperature to be kept in 
 
 398 
 
 . from grapes, 398 
 
 . gooseberry, currant, and raisin 
 
 399 
 
 . various fruits, 400 
 
 . Fontiniac, 400 
 
 . clary, sherry, port, orange, ma 
 
 deira, and ginger, 401 
 
 . concluding observation on, 402 
 
 .colour of, 403 
 
 .exc ss in drinking, 404 
 
 Woodcocks, to boil, 11 
 
 .'to hash, 103 
 
 .en surtout, 151 
 
 .to roast, 53 
 
 .to stew, 98 
 
 Wort, strength of, how to ascertain, 
 
 377 
 
 Yeast, ingredients in, 374 
 
 .how to preserve, 374 
 
 .a substitute for, 374 
 
 . a poultice of, 375 
 
 .dumplings, 258 
 
 Yorkshire puddings, 263 
 Zest, a, of orange, 317 
 . for gravies, 458 
 
 THE END. 
 
 MARCHANT, PRINTER, INGRAM-COURT, FENCHl)RCH-STREET. 
 
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