Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2017 with funding from Getty Research Institute https://archive.org/details/eastbournebeingdOOunse EAST¬ BOURNE , A N B ITS ENVIRONS. V EAST-BOURNE-, B E I N G A DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT OF THAT VILLAGE, IN THE COUNTY of SUSSEX, AND ITS ENVIRONS. ADDRESSED BY PERMISSION, TO THEIR ROYAL HIGHNESSES, PRINCE E D W A R D, AND THE PRINCESSES ELIZABETH and SOPHIA. LONDON: Printed by Denew & Grant, Wardour-Street, Soho, For Hooper, Holborn; AND SOLD BY HIM, AND Cadell, in the Strand; Nicoll, Pallmall; Stock dale,- Piccadilly, and Kookiiam, New-Bond Street. MDCC L XXXVII* T O THEIR ROYAL HIGHNESSES PRINCE EDWARD, AND THE PRINCESSES ELIZABETH and SOPHIA. May it please your Royal Highnesses, T ^ J ITH fmcerefl thankfulnefs give * * *me Leave to acknowledge the high Honour of Permifiion to addrefe this Treatife to your Royal Highneffes and be pleafed to indulge me in afljgn- ing the Motives which have prompted me.to collect the Materials, and prefent ■this Work to you and the public. The DEDICATION. vi The great and peculiar Honour con¬ ferred by your Royal Highneffes, upon the Village of Ea/l-Bourne, by feveral Months 5 Refidence there; the great Be¬ nefit your Healths derived from it, and the general Satisfaftion your Royal Highneffes were pleafed to exprefs at the various beautiful Profpefts and di- verfified Scenes of this healthy and ro¬ mantic Spot^ have induced me to think that a defcriptive Account or that Vil¬ lage and Neighbourhood might not be unacceptable to your Royal Highneffes^ as it may perhaps recall to your Minds thofe Scenes which you took fo much Pleafure in viewing, and which Nature feems in a very peculiar Degree to have adapted as well .for Health as Pleafure. That DEDICATION. vii That it may be confidered in the fame pleafmg Light as when your Royal Highneffes formerly honoured it with your Prefence, is the fmcere With of all the Inhabitants of Eaft-Bourne , as well as of him who is permitted the Honour to fubfcribe himfelf. Your Royal Highneffess mod obliged and faithful humble Servant, 74> 1787. The AUTHOR. '%/ tAs&feanory- .. L2,2.z, Cuho&uj. -3.3.3. &/u GvnonJ t%zoJeij . ■4-44- ^tre ouruhy tC/^mUrrun/o _ nv - Ct&rnpon^i to t/io^oveiaC Ctinonof , - ^ fUnor Ca;io?u, GkjAj.Oraatujtfa ,/fArariu _ 6, C/uxfitor- GCottoe.... ...... c.c. - t%nnj /CfeAm and(Atofitt/ . ./_.. c - /i/ono Coni/ '. f - frren C/oM t/ofoor . 9 - Ml W of/f&ij.OaaWe/uzm# h.h.h.h.t />Yf_ //ijutitmtnfj Ae/onairyr ft -— t/loir tAoya/'tffta/inofid ‘/Aeflwtu. _ and f/rmce/j I 1 . 1 .i. i. Ctotf/t/uMtnetiti/or t/iCC-mo/fui/ | _ /uvy aCtdar //& C/iatn6el/at?U{c I k. k.k^ &/ieQevi/ ±/etoerl£./a& mac/o _ U6e of 61/ t/u 4 ftaictj of noTunor. I l, /,_ tdojo ot /uf./ owe'te, L ??tau/j of Aon Tl ^ * to- rruuG onto- I t//tf^ ubfatok tAod Qt'tc/u y, - &/ie CAt/iufy CovemotJ tfcoidon.. z - fJfi/uAlnuntJ Mort^Jo to 9 >$~ IC. i_ flf/tadm ^/e/ot^my toy/lotudteepor. JZuldiaA’d In/ JlJbte- atJSgttnv 174,9 . '..rarrtCS.JmitA Jm/p\ EJST-BOUR N E, And its ENVIRON S. npIIE county of Suflex extends from eaft to weft between 70 and 80 miles, •the breadth near 30, and in circumference about 170 miles. It is bounded on the north by Surry, and part of Kent, and by another part of-Kent, on the eaft ; by Hampfhire on the weft, and by the Britifh Channel on the fouth-eaft: on the extremity of which fhore, between Brighthelmftone and Haft- ings, and in a bay formed by the two head¬ lands of Beachy-Head and Fairlight, lies the village of EAST- BOURNE, fixty-three miles fouth fouth-eaft of Lon¬ don, longitude fifteen degrees eaft, latitude forty-fix north: and it is pretty certain the city of Anderida (deftroyed by the Sax- B ons ( 6 ) ons about the year 500) was not far from the eaft end of the Downs near the fea; for from the bath, pavement, coins, and bricks, the Romans had their abode here fome time, efpecially when the extent and h eighth of foundations about the place are confidered; and alfoon the fhore, or beach, at a place called the Wifh, or by fome the Wafh, there are piles, from the appearance of which it is to be prefumed there had formerly been a pier, or harbour for fhips *; but it is now choaked up with fand, the fea having left it. Great part of this country was taken up by that vail extenfive foreft called by the Britains Coid-Andred, by the Saxons An¬ dre d, and Andredes-Wald, (by fome termed the Wild or Weald,) and by the ancients Andreds-Sleage.—This foreft extended 120 miles in length from Kent through Suffexinto Hamplhire, and at leaft 30 miles in breadth; and was formerly a defart for deer and hogs. The ground produced a mineral called talc, * This the neareft Englilh coaft to the mouth of the Seine, to which place it is fuppofed the Romans came Uom Italy over to this coaft. ( 7 ) talc, which, if properly prepared, was ufed as awhite-wafh, and in phyfic had an aftrin- gent quality. This country was anciently almoft all over-run with forefts and thickets; but now the woods are much thinned, and unlefs there be a way found out to char fea- coal for the ufe of the iron furnaces, it is to be feared that the country will be quite Gripped of wood. It is true, that there are Gill fome remains of the famous wood A»- derida difperfed in little parcels up and down the county, as the forefts of Arundel, St. Leonard Wood, Afhdown, Waterdown, and Dallington ; but they are like to follow the fate of their mother, if not timely pre¬ vented. In this foreft Siegebert, king of the Weft Saxons (being depofed from his throne) was {tabbed by a fwine-herd.—A poetical defcription of this foreft may not be improv perly recited here : This fcene, how different in its priftinc Gate ! (What fame reports, well may the mufe relate) * All was one wild inhofpitable wafte ; Uncouth and horrid, defart and untrac'd ; B 2 Hid * Vide Appendix for a further account of the foreft of Andcrida, C 8 ) Hid, by rough thickets, from the face of day; The folitary realms of beafts of prey : After the weaker kinds the foxes ran, Themfelves not yet purfu’d by craftier man : The wolf, fince banifh’d, rul’d with lawlefs might, And howling, added horror to the night ; ’Till man, at length, their fecret haunts explor’d, And taught the favage race to know their lord. Then Induftry, Earth’s handmaid, threw apart Her rude attire, and drefs’d her charms with art ; From fecond chaos order did produce, From ufelefs things, things ofnobleft ufe. The Wild or Weald is about 50 miles in length, and 30 in breadth; and in many parts refembles Lombardy in Italy, being planted with trees as that is. Behind the village of Raft-Bourne’ are the South Downs, which extend from beyond Arundel to this fpot, and defend it from the furious blafts and watery influence of the weft and fouth-weft winds ; and in front, the fea forming an amphitheatre (which many report fimilar to the Bay of Naples for form and beauty of vi£W) expofes it to the firft rays ( 9 ) rays of the morning fun, with all the fplen- dour and warmth of an eaftcrn and orient country,; the ardent fire of noon, and the pleafing {hade of evening. To this fcene the following lines may not be inapplicable: Sweet is the breath of morn, her riling tweet* With charm ofearlieft birds ; pleafant the fun, When firft on this delightful land he fpreads His orient beams on herb, tree, fruit, and flower. Glittering with dew ; fragrant the fertile earth. After fhort fhowers ; and fweet the coming on Of grateful evening mild ; then fllent night, With this her folemn bird, and this fair moon, A*nd thefe the gems of heaven, her {tarry train. It is at all hours* even in the warmeft fea- fon, in your power to be cool and pleafant* by walking on the fea fhore,. or by riding on the Downs* by which the intenfe heat is moderated by the fea breezes. Being now on the fea-beach, it may not be difagreeable to infert the following pane¬ gyric on that noble objeft the fea : B 3 " Hail! ( fa ) €f Hail! thou inexhauftible fource of won¬ der and contemplation !—Hail! thou mul¬ titudinous ocean! whofe waves chafe one another down, like the generations of men ; and, after a momentary fpace, are immerged for ever in oblivion !—Thy fluctuating wa¬ ters wafh the varied fhores of the world • and white they disjoin nations, whom a nearer connexion would involve in eternal war, they circulate their arts and their la¬ bours, and give health and plenty to man¬ kind. How glorious! how aweful are the feenes thou difplayefl!—Whether we view thee, when every wind is hufh’d, when the morning fun, as now, filvers the level line of the horizon ; or when its evening track is marked with flaming gold, and thy un¬ rippled bofora reflects the radiance of the over-arching heavens !—or whether we be¬ hold thee in thy terrors!—when the black tempefl fweeps thy fuelling billows, and the boiling furge mixes with the clouds-—when Death rides the florm, and Humanity drops a fruit- (.” ) a fruitlefs tear for the toiling mariner, whofe heart is finking with difmay! And yet mighty Deep!—’tis thy furface alone we view—Who can penetrate the fe- crets of thy wide domain ?—What eye can vifit thy immenfe rocks and caverns, that teem with life and vegetation ? or fearch out the myriads of objects, whofe beauties lie fcattered over thy dread abimes ? The mind flaggers with the immenfity of her own conceptions—and when {he con¬ templates the flux and reflux of thy tides; which, from the beginning of the world, were never known to err, how does fhe fhrink at the idea of that divine power, which originally laid thy foundations fo fure^ and whofe omnipotent voice hath fixed the limits wdiere thy proud waves fhall be,flayed!" Turning around, the country elevates it- felf from the fea to the Downs, which are as fertile for corn as mofl vallies and plains, and are conflantly covered with fine fweet grafs (owing to their being on a fat chalk or B 4 marl,) f I* ) mar],) making as it were a carpet of vel¬ vet, the fineft in the world, both for man and bead to walk on, and whereon feed innu¬ merable flocks of ffieep, which it is difficult to pronounce, whether the flefh or fleece is mod delicate, and where alfo feeds and is caught, the Wheat-Ear.* The middle track of land is richly orna¬ mented with meadows and corn-fields, with hedges * A bird peculiar ta this county, and fo called, be- caufe they are fattefi when the wheat is ripe, which they feed on : they are about the fize of a laik, but far ex¬ cel it in fatnefs and delicacy of flefli; vre may rightly call them the Engiifli Ortolans'*, as they much refemble thefe birds in tarte ; and are fo fat, that they almoft dif- folvein the mouth like jelly, being fo delicate. I (hall not name that epicure, who being ferioufly afked his judgment concerning the abilities of a great Lord, concluded him a man of very weak parts, bccaufe, once he faw him at a great feaft feed on chickens, when there were Wheat- Ears at the table.-—They are not in feafon till the mid¬ dle of fummer, when by reafon of the heat ; and their fatnefs, they arefo apt to corrupt, that the London poul¬ terers dare nor meddle with them, all the care that can be taken, not beingfufficient to keep them from putrefaction, which Italian, Reccajice r improved by paflage and feeding. ( 13 ) hedges and groves almoft to the fea-beacfr, from whence the profpe&s of thefe Downs (particularly off Beachy Head and neigh" bouring cliffs,) are wonderfully pleafing and romantic, and are equally rural and agreeable ; being views of wide fpread mea¬ dows, arable ground, and fhady groves, in¬ termingled with cooling rivulets, which al¬ together confpire to make the air admirably pure and wholefome, as the waters from the ii 5 fpringSj. which is a great difadvantage to the fale of them, as v ell as a difappointment to dainty palates.—The manner in which they are caught,, is not unworthy of notice : it is by cutting a turf, about a foot long and half a foot broad, and digging a hole in the form of a T,* about half a foot deep ; the turf is turned the graffy fide downwards, and to a fmall flat flick like a fkewer, which is fixed acrofs, hang two horfe-hair noozes i the birds are fo timorous, that upon the approach of any thing, (even the fhadow of a cloud will frighten them,) they run into thefe cavi¬ ties for fhelter, and fall vi&tms under thefe fatal cover¬ ings, by enfnaring, themfelves in the nooze ; they are guided to thefe holes, by white flones or flints placed near the mouth of the hole. * Formerly a crofs, as adopted by the Romifh priefls, to remind pafTengers of their devotion.- ( *4 1 fprings, being clear, fweet,foft, and balfamie; feveral of which flowing from the cliffs* and a fpring. from whence the village is named, the head of which arifes out of a chalkey rock under an arch in an Ox-ftall in the Old Farfonage Clofe; and after fupplying a large pond and two bafons in the gardens of Meflrs. Willard and Gilbert^ iofles itfelf in- the ditches and levels, till entirely wafted in the Beach called Broadr Bourne, at the fea-fide : And this water fupplies great part of the town, on account of the above good qualities. From the number of Barrows, founda¬ tions, and Roman pavements in this neigh¬ bourhood, particularly in a field belonging to Mr. Willard, where .-it- is faid, is a Ro¬ man Bath, (a particular account of which* for the amufement of Antiquarians is an¬ nex’d by way of appendix;). it is pre¬ fumed this was the place of an ancient Roman Ration, as coin and other riches have been dug out: nay, they go- fo far as to Gy, a, golden coffin was dug up with l ( 15 ) with the remains of a body ; and frequently bones are thrown up by plough-fhares, and other means; and near the road leading down to the Chalk Cliffs, are the remains of a build¬ ing called St. Gregory’s Chapel,*and the fields and hill are now diftinguifhed by that name. The bells belonging to it are faid to have been carried to France, and now aftually ufed either at Rouen, or Dieppe, in Normandy. The village of Eaft-Bourne is fmall, but fnugly fituated, being almoft furrounded by hills, and is built in form of a crofs :—The church, near which is a priory (generally miflaken for another in a village of the fame name near Chichefler,) hands nearly in the centre of the town, where the four ftreets meet. Jt is an ancient edifice, the arms of Charles the I. being hung up over one of the portals. In it was an inventory of bells, veftment books, and other furni¬ ture of the chapel • alfo a fchedule of rent and revenues thereof. There are feveral B 6 tombs * So named in letteK-patent, eflablilhing the corpo¬ ration of Pevenfey. ( i6 ) tombs and monuments, particularly a very hand Tome modern one in the chancel, be¬ longing to the family of the Lufhingtons, who have the belt houfe and gardens in this village, and mo ft delightfully fituated, both for land and fea profpe&s. There are but few good buildings; the principal ones are inhabited by Meffrs. Willard, Gilbert and Augur ; the cuftom- houfe, and Parfonage-houfe : the gardens and pleafure grounds, which are uncom¬ monly pleafant and fhady, having fine elms, walnut, chefnut and other large trees there¬ on, which fo near the fea is very feldom to be met with. Dr. Noake’s, and Mr. Strai- ton’s fituations, and romantic views from them, are worthy of obfervation, as is alfo Counfellor Pigott’s, at South-Bourne. Lord George Cavendifli’s, at Bourne- place, about half a mile from the village, at the end of South-Bourne Street, is very pleafantly fituated, having fine views of the Sea, Downs, &c. being furrounded with lofty and large trees, and all kinds of flower¬ ing 2 ( *7 ) ing fhrubs,, and excellent kitchen garden, near a fine lawn called the Links, at the end of which is a fhrubbery, and an elegant building called Paradife; which appellation from its fituation, and the views from it, it richly deferves. The houfe is a very good brick build¬ ing, and a comfortable habitation in winter as well as fummer, the walls being thick and well ftieltered; good dining, drawing, and other rooms and gallery, from whence are pleafing land and fea views ; fome re¬ markable fine tapeftry, being the hiftory of Don Quixote, and fome tolerable good pi&ures, by Sir P. Lely, and Sir Godfrey Kneller. From Bourne-Place, go through a long ftreet called South-Bourne, and Shady-lane, with trees and hedges to the fea-houfes; in which ftreet and on the beach, are fome tolerable good modern buildings; three of which are agreeably fituated at the fea-fide> belonging to Meffrs Mortimer, Royer and Bradford, ( *8 ) Bradford, and were occupied in the year 1780, by their Royal Highneffes Princefies Elizabeth, and Sophia, and Princes Edward and O&avius; and are chiefly inhabited by vifitors who come in the fpring, fummer, or autumn months, for the advantage of the fea air and bathing, the accommodations for which are equal to any in England ; the water being pure, and the fands as fine, and the bathing feldom interrupted by bad weather; as for the amufements of failing, fhooting or hunting ; of which, there being great plenty of game at the proper feafon, it muft be here remarked, that within a week of the fame period every year, amaz¬ ing number of fea fowl of every denomi¬ nation arrive at the Cliffs, where holes are formed, they lay their eggs, hatch their young, and get off* with them as well as they can, tho* it is fuppofed many are left be¬ hind (lain by fportmen. There are alfo feveral buildings, parti¬ cularly a large one, formerly a horizontal mill ( *9 J •mill for grinding corn, now called the Round- houfe; near this place, the fea has en¬ croached much, as fome of the oldeft people remember to have feen cattle feeding in a meadow dire&ly under where this houfe {lands, now on the extremity of the Cliff. Being now at the Sea-houfes, the pro- fpe&s from which both of land and fea, are beyond defcription pleafing, it may not be difagreeable to be informed of the many pleafant excurfions to be made from this place, and as the weather is,, fo Ihould the excurfions be anfwerable. v> Suppofing it to be fine (as it generally is from May to November,.) curiofity may tempt the reader to vifit that immenfe promontory of Beachy-Head ; to which place it is advifable to fet off on horfe- back, (or in a chaife, one horfe before another* with a guide ;) about one hour be¬ fore low water, by which means the advan¬ tage may be taken of riding on the fands, without being alarmed, at the rifing of the tide* lu ( 20 ) In this excurfion, the firft place of note, about half a mile, is the Wifh, which has been before remarked as fuppofed to have been a pier or harbour, and of which there are evident marks from the opening, and kind of bafon behind the Beach.—About half a mile further, pafs many fprings, ifFuing out of the chalky cliffs, one of which fprings is called Holy-well, fuppofed to be fo named from the many advantages received from the drinking of thofe waters, which are of the like nature of Briftol wa¬ ters ; having been analyzed, and faid to be equal to them in ftrength and efficacy in all diforders of the lungs, weaknefs of the fto- mach, See. the v/ater being full as light, if not lighter. About a mile further arrive at that amazing promontory or Cape, called B E A C H Y - H E A D, about three miles S. W. of Eaft-Bourne r it rifes gradually from South-Bourne; at firft it is very rugged, and has feveral pinnacles called the Charles’s, fome of which are now down; “XSLSSilS k C£VSH-lIUWgL ( *1 ) down ; but as foon as you have turned the Head Land, it is quite perpendicular. Off this point of land, the French fleet by their fuperiority in number, defeated the Englifh and Dutch in 1690, commanded by Lord Torrington. Several large caverns (like great vaults) are made in thefe cliffs by the fea, by which the many proje&ions and romantic perpendiculars are wonderful and pleafing. It is the highefl cliff on the fouth coaft, and is above as high again as the monument of London, being about 500 feet in heighth. The rocks, which reach far out into the fea, are the definition of many finefhips and lives. In palTing the Charles's, a ridge of cliffs joining Beachy-Head, will be prefented in view, and are more perpendicular, being lefs broke in upon by the fea. Under one of thefe cliffs is a large cavern, confiding of an opening flair-cafe, a dining-room and bed¬ chamber, faid to be carved or hewn out by a clergyman^ taking its name from him, and X IS ( 22 ) is called Derby’s-Hole; from hence, near a mile, is Burling-Gap, an ancient gateway fhod with iron, being ufed in former wars, and is a way up to the land. It enclofeth a hill named Beltout, of a half oval fhape. The works have the fame figure, and mea- fure three quarters of a mile ; the cliff makes the diameter. It is now ufed as a conveni¬ ent landing place for fmugglers. As the reader may be tired of profe, it is hoped it will not be unentertaining to recite the following piece of poetry written by a fchoolmafler. Its chief merit is accuracy in the defeription of the places therein cele¬ brated ; it is therefore given without altera¬ tion : ON Albion’s aufhai bounds, on Sufiex’s flrand, A range of rocks defend the adjacent land From vile invaders, and infulting waves; Indulgent Nature whom fhe loves, fhe faves ; Then from the laws draw this fafe inference, Againftfalfe friends Hill make the ftrongefl fence. The treacherous French with envy on them gaze, Chagrin’d to fee fuch walls they can’t eraze ; Erft ( 23 ) Erft feven cliffs, but know the Charles’s height, Here off from hence was fatal Beachy fight. Our Weflern fleet, freighted with Indian weed, Did fuffer here by treachery decreed. The Dunkirk fquadron, lurking for their prey. Sheer’d out, and here did intercept their way. The furrow’d front, with vifage ghaflly pale, Frowns at the billows of each boifterous gale, Informs afar of fatal Beachy-Head, A fhoal of rocks to mariners a dread. Oh ! ghaflly fight, afpeedy death to touch. Too oft experienc’d by our friends —the Dutch. When Grangers this tremendous cliff pafs by, And underneath uplift their dazzled eye ; Deem that the threatning top does half-way * reach the fky ; J And fome old ruins of another world, Which Jove in fporting down at this has hurl’d y Rocks rais’d on rocks, in ruflic order rife, To lofty towers who feem t’ afcend the fkies. The beating furge the bafis undermines, T ill o’er the beach the maffy brow inclines ; Sullen, forfak’n, like perfons in difgrace, Who frown on all who look them in the face ; When rufhing fforms do fhake the continent. Or peals of thunder rend the element; Or ( 24 ) Or murdering guns, when they in voliies roar. Shake off the Iheil that over fail’d before ; Then down the mafly vizard links in beach. And buries all that happens in its reach ; When men by cuftom overcome that fear, Which brings a dread, when danger it is near ; They vent’roully look o’er the bending brow, And pigmy like leetn unto thofe below. Sea-faring fowl, of numerous forts here throng. Both for their refuge, and to breed their young ; And when furpris’d each have their different cry, Aitlio’ in difcord, yet in harmony. A fcene more ft range in Britain don’t appear. At once furprizing both the eye and ear Weflward from Beachy near four hundred pole, A cave was cut, is now called Derby’s Hole ; As flately piles oft bear their founders’ name, So this fame cell perpetuates the fame. A rev’rend wight, who left his weekly care, Chofe drudging here for drugery of prayer ; W ith axe and pick, he cleft the rugged rock, He fpar’d no pains, but with his flraying flock; When he had hewn this fubterraneous cell, His ionefome fancy led him there to dwell; But ( 2 5 ) Bat noxious vapours, which did here collet. Soon feiz’d the fire, and fpoiPd the architect :* Tho’ one man loft, twelve Dutchmen by it fur- vives ; ^Being fhipwreck’d here, with hardfhip favcd their lives. On the broad fhoulders of thefe cliffs there lie, The faireft downs ere fac’d the azure jfky ; Where a rich carpet o’er the fame is fpread, And numerous flocks thereon are yearly fed} Whofe filver fleece, and fweeter flefli exceed, Banftead, or Bagfhot, or fam’d Cotefwould breed ; There youthful fwains engage the youthful fair, And the fwift greyhounds chafe the harmlefs hare } And • When all the winds of heaven feemed to confpire againft the floriny main, and dreadful peals of rattling thunder deafened every ear, and drown’d the affrighted mariner’s loud cries, while livid lightning fpread its fulphurous flames through all the dark hori¬ zon, and difclos’d-the -raging feas incenfed to his deftruction ; when the good lhipin which he was embarked, unable longer to fupport the temped, broke, and overwhelmed by the impetuou9 furge,funk to the oozy bottom of the deep, and left him ftruggling with the war¬ ring waves; in that d.ead moment, in the jaws of death, when his ftrength fail’d, and every hope forfook him, and his laff breath preffed towards his trembling lips, the neighbouring rocks that echoed to his moan, returned -no found articulate! ( 26 ) And the proud racers fcour it o’er the plain, With eager fpeed, who firfl the goal fhall gain. The artful fhepherd here exerts his fkill, The timorous, tender wheat-ear for to kill ; Here in the turf cuts up a Roman T, Which he inverts, and makes a cavity ; Where he hangs noozes, made of flipp’ry hair : Thus, every feafon for thofe birds prepare, When fleeting clouds, with darkening fhades appear, They take the trap, feeking for fhelter there, T’ efcape the fhower, they are taken in the fnare; Of fuch a feint, brave Britons, ft ill beware ! When thoufands thus become their heedlefs prey; To Tunbridge-Wells they quickly them convey ; A fine return well worth the fhepherd’s care, A fine repaft fit to regale the fair ; They weaken’d nature kindly vivify. And wafted fpirits friendly will fupply; Correct the juices, and enrich the blood, And by nice palates, deem’d delicious food. Near on the Eaft there lies a grateful foil, Which well rewards the tiller’s care and toil; Fair fmiling meads, were once a briny flood. Fine glad’ning fields where a fair city flood ; Eaftbourne, ( 2 7 ) Eaftbourne now call’d, whilome Andcrida, ^ But mouldering time the hardeft flints decay, HereU fcarce one mark, remains where the old ruins lay. The footfteps dim, the hiftory dark to trace, Sea-downs, and weald, concur that its the place : Thus names of men, like places, have their lot, As Burton is, Wilfon will be forgot; Each in their turn, flourifh’d a time now gone, To be fucceeded by great Wilmington. But not to trifle with fo old a tale, Hear what will more the reader’s ear regale ; *1 his fertile place in plenty doth produce, All the fubftantials fit for human ufe; Fowl, fifh, and fruit, the feafon ftill fupply Their luxury, not want, to gratify ; What ftill adds luftre to this ancient place. And gives a fan£tion with a double grace $ A noble peer by his own merit rais’d, Whofe early parts were in the fenate prais’d ; A filial branch of the Northampton line. Great as the Item, and does more fplendid ftiine; With fteady hand ftill holds an even fcale, Between two powers, that neither may prevail: Happy that peer, where fuch a precedent, Thrice happy peer., who both fides can content! In ( 28 ) In this high truft, with honour fills the place, And adds a grandeur to the Compton race : Envy fits filent at his facred name, Juftice records it in the rolls of fame ; Princes and Peers will drive to make it room, To be rever’d thro’ ages yet to come ; Thro’ future times here will be thought upon. The learn’d, the juft, puiflant Wilmington. As the reader will now perhaps be as much (if not more) tired of the poetry, than •the defcriptive account, the latter will be renewed. Turning on the right, therefore, on the top of the cliffs over the fine downs already defcribed, as near the fide as fafety fhall difiate; difmounting on the laft riling ground going up to Beachy-Head, the fight downwards is very aweful, and in many views romantic and entertaining, and won¬ derfully pleafmg : At a point of land on paffing the Plead, is the fined coup de Poeil in all Suffex, or perhaps in England; look¬ ing down on Eaft and South Bourne, over the Bay to Haftings; on the right hand, the main ocean, and turning backwards, fee Seaford, ( 2 9 ) Seaford, Brighton, and the Tea coaft, to the Ifle of Wight, which may be diltinguilh- ed very plainly: and to the left-hand the Downs, intermixed with villages, corn¬ fields, Sec. defeend to the village of M E D E S, con fills of a few fcattered houfes, in¬ habited by farmers on the brow of a hill ; pafs through a pleafant fhady lane to Lord George Cavendifh’s Houfe; and alfo a pretty building inhabited by his fteward ; or, by another road on the right, to the Wifh Houfes, near the Wifh Bank; or over the Links to Ealt-Bourne, a moll de¬ lightful ride. Seaford being one of the Cinque Ports, it being alfo a pleafant ride, afeend the downs either by a road Lord George has gene- roufly made for the good of the public, or by that out of Ealt-Bourne. After having gone near three miles, the village of Ealt- Dean looks very pretty at a diftance, parti- C ( 3 ° ) cularly the houfe and grounds of Mr. Dip- pery. EAST-DEAN, Was the eftate of William de Echine- c> ham, 23d Edw. I. who then procured a charter of free warren for it, of that prince, and feveral other manors of his in this county; form whence you afcend a hill, through a fhady lane, to Frifton Church ; which is a land and fea mark, being on an immenfe eminence. On the right-hand, a fine enclofed wood, and a remarkable fine fpring of water, for the height of fituation ; large buildings in ihe bottom. After which pafs by Well- Dean, on the right-hand in a valley, con¬ fiding of a large farm, and church ; pafs over a caufeway to Excete or Excete Bridge, fimilar to the Dykes in Holland, between two feas in appearance; indeed 011 the left, it is the main occean; being C U C K- ( ) C U C K M E R E.* It is faid, the Dutch offered one million of pounds llerling for this place, or for the liberty of anchoring here; but good policy refufed the offer; as they would have in¬ terfered with our trade, and navigation. Pafs by the pleafant fpot of Sutton, a good habitable houfe belonging to Mr. Harrifon,to S E A F O R D, the approach to which rather plea¬ fant, being furrounded by corn-fields; a narrow paffage arched over with trees, through which a romantic view of the fea: four flreets meet in the centre of the town, fituated within a quarter of a mile from the fea; there are fome tolerable good buildings, many of which are let in C 2 the * Cuckmere Haven, a pretty good harbour at the mouth of the river, that running from the bottom of Crowberry Hill, pafleth by Hayllham, and empties ltfelf into the fea, between Sutton and Excete, an hamlet of Eaft-Dean Parifh. f 3 2 ) the bathing feafon to vifitors j but the town- houfe is an indifferent building, a large and handfome church, pleafantly fituated. Near the town, on the beach, is a good battery and houfe ; alfo a noble large build¬ ing, called Corfica-Hall, belonging to Mr. Harben, of Lewes; and brought between three and four miles beyond Lewes by water, and rebuilt in the fame form and fiyle ; a large plantation and walks fur- round it; agreeable walk to Seaford or Sef- ford; which lies two miles W. of Weft- Dean, the Lordfhip of John Earl of War¬ ren and Surrey, who having no iffue by his wife, made over, by a fpecial grant, all his inheritance to King Edward II. and among other great eftates in this and other counties, this manor of Seaford : In re- compence for which fettlement, the king affigned him for his life, the caftles of Co- ingfburgh, Sandale, and manors of Wake- held and Halifax, &c. in Yorkftiire. He enjoyed the whole for his life, and at his death, which happened 21ft Edward III. they ( 33 ) they all went to the crown except Tome few, which by confent of King Edward II. had been re-granted to him, with remainder to bis natural fon, by Maude de Nereford, John de Warren, and his heirs-male, &c. But this manor feems to have continued in the crown; for in 42 Edward III. we find Michael Lord Poynings, died poffeffed of it, and then we fuppofe it returned to the crown, and was given to Richard Fitz-Alan, Earl of Arundel, who having forfeited it (as he was accufed) by treafon to the crown, Rich¬ ard II. on account of divers great fervices done by him, conferred upon Thomas de Mowbray, Earl of Nottingham, this and di¬ vers other great eftates, and foon after cre¬ ated him Duke of Norfolk. This town is in the liberty of the Cinque Ports; and though it be but a fmall fifiling town, is built of done and fate, and defended with a con¬ venient fort. It enjoyed the privilege of fending burgeffes to parliament very early, 26 Edward I. to 21 Richard II. feven elec¬ tions, but is was difcontinued from that time C 3 to ( 34 ) to the reign of K. Edward IV. when k was again reftored, as it now remains. This town had an ancient hofpital, dedi¬ cated to St. James. BLACHINTON, Or Rlechinton, the Lordfhip of Thomas Lord de la Warr, who died poffeffed of it upon Eafter-day, 6 Hen. IV. leaving Tho^ mas his fon and heir. He was with victorious King Henry V. in France, in the third year of his reign, and died the fame year, poffelfed of this manor, and feveral others in this county; leav¬ ing them to Reginald his fon and heir, who had fummons to parliament as Lord de la Warr, from 5 Hen. VI. to the 28th of that King’s reign. He died Augufl 27 th of the next year, feifed of this Lordfhip and other great eftates, which he left to his fon Richard. He was a flout afferter of the Lancaftrian title; and when king Edw. IV. came to the throne, left the kingdom, and lived ( 35 ) lived in exile ; till in Bofworth field, Henry Duke of Lancafler, then made King Henry VII. got on the throne by his vibtorv over King Richard III. when he returned home, obtained his own eftate and honour, and many lordfhips of John Duke of Nor¬ folk attained. Another fine fpot, called * POINT PLEASANT, near which was formerly a fmall caftie bounded by the cliff on the fouth; its figure almoft femicircular, the trench and rampart large, inclofing twelve acres, and from whence may be feen the I fie of Wight, Lewes, Brighton, &c. and cliffs to Beachy- Head. Here is a fine bay, which reaches from Newhaven cliffs, to thofe of Seaford ; where there is good anchorage ground, for fhips of any burthen. From hence you go by Blach- inton battery, under rifing grounds, by Bifhopftone, belonging to the Pelhams, and of which an account will be given C 4 .on ( 3 ^ ) on return. Pafs on the left, a large build¬ ing, ufed as a corn-mill, and which is Supplied by an inlet of water from the river Oufe, to a bridge lately built over that river; a limb of the fea, noted for its being a fafe and good harbour for veffels of considerable burthen, which go up above this bridge, where there is a dock-yard, and where frigates have been and may be built. This river runs up about Lewes, a port from which timber, corn, and other articles, the produce of a great part of the county, are ex¬ ported; and all forts of merchandizes for the ufe of the inhabitants thereof, are imported. Articles of trade are conveyed up this river in barges, about ten miles thro’ a mo ft fer¬ tile country, and a track of four thoufand acres of marfh land, interfpers’d with vil¬ lages on each fide of the river, of which, and Lewes, there is a moft pleafing profpeSf from the cuftom-houfe and warehoufes, and many parts of the town, particularly from the churchyard, where it may be agreeable to walk to; as by fo doing, will be feen the whole ( 37 ) •whole of the town, which confifts chiefly of one long ftreet, in which a very few toler¬ able buildings, fave one pleafantly lituated ; —-belongs to Mr. Humphry. On the point of the hill, which overlooks the harbour's mouth, is a fortification which is called the cattle; its banks are very high, the fhape near half oval, containing about fix acres now, tho' formerly more, as the cliff moulders away, and falls into the fea. To this place an agreeable walk on the walls, or thro* the fields; and from hence is a good view of the country and fea, to Sea- ford and cliffs. NEW H A V E N, Situate at the mouth of the river Oufe ; but now the name of the river is almott; quite forgot. The town is {mail, inhabited chiefly by maritime people, having a key on the eatt: fide of it, where fliips may ride fccure in foul weather; here are fome- times a pretty many fmall veffels, which bring coals, deals, and other merchandizes ■». - C 5 for f 38 ) for Lewes, which lies about eight miles eaft- ward of this town, and load from thence with corn, timber, tan, &c. Some fmall veffels are alfo built here, and it would be a place of confiderable trade, in cafe they had a better harbour; but now it is fo fmall, that a veffel of about fifty or fixty ton loaded > dare not venture into it. Lewes ftand upon the fame river, about feven miles up. This river waters the Rape of Lewes, fpreading into divers branches on the north fide of the Rape, one of them rifing in St. .Leonard’s foreft, and the other out of the foreft of Worth, befides feveral other iittl e rivulets, which uniting with another branch that comes out of Pevenfey Rape, make a large torrent at Iffield, fo goes on to Lewes, and falls into the fea at Newhaven, where it makes a fafe and good harbour for {hips in foul weather. We have no account of any particular fort of hfh that this river is famous for, and leave it in common with the reft; but it is well ftored with fifh of all kinds. Having ( 39 ) Having feen every thing worthy obferva- tion, and as novelty is pleafing in moft things, yet in travelling it is particularly fo, elfe it would not be fo much praftifed; therefore after (on the return) riding about a mile, at a fmall grove, take the left path up the hill; from the top of which is a moft enchanting view of fea and country, Bifhopftone on the left, to which defcend gradually. BISHOPSTONE, a very fmall village indeed; but for the com¬ pany and entertainment formerly reforted to by the firft, and indeed all the families in this county, to vifit the Duke of Newcaftle, of the Pelham family, and firft made a baron by King William ; a man whofe hofpitali- ty and benevolence, as well as religious principles, are univerfally acknowledged; but as to his political character, as it has no immediate reference to this fubjeff, (any further than his conftant fervice in the cabi¬ net, for about thirty-five years) will be a laftingand convincing proof of his abilities ; C 6 for ( 40 ) for like that great ft ate fin an Cardinal Fleu- ry, at the age of about feventy-five, he was called from his retirement to affift the cabi¬ net council, which, to ferve his country, at the earneft requeft of the great Duke of Cumberland, he undertook, as a true whig and friend to the prefent family and govern¬ ment. The houfe is ftrong and well built, not large, but has feveral good rooms, in which are many fine pi&ures of the royal, as well as of that noble family; painted by the firfl mailers, and is now the eftate of Lord Pelham. The gardens, woods, and fhrubberies, are fmall, but well laid out ; from them and the houfe, are many good views of the fea, and adjacent country. By afcending the hill, and going over the downs, there is a continuance of the fame fine and extenfive profpedl to Excete-bridge ; leaving Seaford, Blachington, and Sutton on the right. EXCETE I ( 4i ) EXCETE or EXCETES; The manor and demefne of William Lord Echingham, who procured a char¬ ter of free warren for it, and fome other of his eftates in this county, 23 Edward I.—Who was his heir w 7 e know not, but find it in the pofleflion of Lord Weft, 29 Henry VI. who left it with other great eftates to his fon and heir Richard Lord Weft and his heirs. Over the caufeway, and turn to the left to WEST-BEAM, which was the eftate of Giles Lord BadleL mere, 12 Edward I. who then died poffefled of it, and gave it to his daughter Maude, who was at that time wife of John de Vere, Earl of Oxford.—She out-lived her Earl, and had the inheritance. And through a fine valley of corn fields, to Frifton, a large pile of buildings, the eftate of William Lord Echingham, fo pri¬ vileged C 42 ) vileged as Excete, but now inhabited by Mr. Alfrey, a very good and honeft wine- merchant : up a hill leads to another long valley, up a rifing ground to the hand-poft at the top of the hill, going down to Eaft-Bourne. In the valley there is a building ere&ed for the purpofe of railing water for the ufe of the fheep, cattle, and other purpofes on the downs. Defcend to Eail or South Bourne, the contra¬ ry way to the departure, by which will be had an opportunity of both views of fea and land, which indeed are equally beautiful* for the variety of villages, wood, and rich- nefs of country, and bounded by the fea, quite away to Mailings. PEVENSEY CASTLE. Turning my face unto the morning light, An antique pile* falutes my roving tight j Whether of Roman, or of later date. Remains a fecret, which the learn’d debate. Once a fair port enrich’d the fam’d abode. But herds now graze where royal navies rode: For * Pcvenfey Caftle* X 43 ) For like ambitious princes, earth and main, Contending make each other’s lofs their gain. Here with his powers, the haughty Norman came, Conquefl his view, the diadem his claim ; The will of Edward his pretended right, But his heft title was fuccefsful might; Scarce flood his foldiers on the promis’d land, * But their great leader, by a bold command, Aiming a defperate courage to infpire, Bid them look back, and fee his fleet on fire; Shew’d them their hopes in victory alone. And that his lot muft be the grave or throne. By eafy marches to the f town he came, Which from the Danifh pirate takes its name. (Firfl of tliofe filler J Ports, who fince arofe. The nation’s guard againfl invading foes ; Whofe naval fervices in ages pafl, Kings paid with honours, which fhall ever lafl.) Harold, whofe fword yet reek’d with Norway’s gore, Crown’d with frefh laurels, pluck’d from Hum¬ ber’s fhore ; Found here the other rival of his fame, The fame his caufe, he hop’d th’ event the fame; Bloody the flrife, nor ftnall the victor’s gain, They fight a crown to guard or to obtain. But f Haflings, } Cinque Ports. ( 44 ) But Heaven and Fate determin’d near this place. To end the glories of the Saxon race ; Still the proud ruins of the § abbey tell, Where William conquer’d, and where Harold fell. This fabric on the fpot the vi£tor built, T’ appeafe juft Heaven for blood unjuftly fpilt; But may his piety this offering claim ? Or did it fpring from love of worldly fame ; Since the fame work that fhould his guilt atone, A trophy ftands to make his glory known ? Oh vanity I can the fame deed be thought, Impious and brave, an honour and a fault ! Or by our gifts, can Heaven’s eternal will y Like judges brib’d, be taught to wink at ill ? Oh ! ignorance of thofe deluded times, That thought faints’ prayers could expiate finners* crimes I To this place, a fine road, being on a hard gravel on the fea beach; having on the left, a pleafmg view of downs, vil¬ lages and copfes of groves, and through foxne pleafant fhady lanes to rich marfhes. On the weft ward, is the village of Weft- ham ; § Battle Abbey, ( 45 ) ham; only one ftraight ftreet of indifferent built houfes; but the church is large and handfome, with three altars, anfwerable to the grandeur and magnificence of thofe noble Lords Pelham and Afhburnham. This caflle is an objeft: worthy of obfer- vation, from its great antiquity and prefent ftate, having been a venerable flrudture. It was called by the Britons Caer Perfa- uelcoit, and by others Pevenfel, where it is Laid, William Duke of Normandy landed with nine hundred fail of fhips, for the con- queft of England; and tho’ authors differ about the originality of the building, yet there is the greatefl reafon to believe it was built about the time ofjulius Casfar, from the number of regular flrata of Roman bricks, taken out of a Roman fortrefs, and near which place, it is faid he was the firft who leaped from his fliip on the fliore of Britain; tho’ fome fay it was built by William the Con¬ queror, and given by Henry IV. to the Pelham family for their loyalty and valour ; others fay it was granted by William the Conqueror ( 46 ) Conqueror to the Earl of Portland, and purchafed of him by the Earl of Wilmington, and now the property of Lord George Ca- vendifh. This caffle is faid to have been built of rocks, taken out of the fields between the round-houfe and Wifh, at the fea-fide, Eaft- Bourne, where large pits now remain, the rocks of which bear the refemblance. There was once a harbour, but now def- troyed by the fea, tho* a deep piece of water comes up to the town; over which is a flone-bridge, and has commupication with the country. RIVER a t PEVENSEY. This river, tho* namelefs, waters Pe- venfey Rape, and rifmg at the foot of Crowberry-hill, is augmented with feveral fmaller (ireams, which uniting near Hayl- fham, pafs in a full but winding current to the Englifh channel, where it makes an haven, call'd Creekmere Haven. Pevenfey, two or three miles up the flream, was an*- ciently ( 47 ) ciently a good haven; but now the river is fo much flopped up by the band caft in by the fea, that no {hip can come up to it, and fo it is acceffible only by boats, as Haylfham is. The fchoolmafler at Pevenfey is a proper perfon to defcribe the particulars of this noble caflle and country ; but lefl it fhouid not be in his power to do fo, or it may not be agreeable to have fuch kind of informa¬ tion, that defcription is here given. This caflle flands on a good deal of ground, nearly half as much as Dover; the keep is an irregular polygon, or hexagon, flanked by round towers, the entrance on the weft fide over a bridge, the keep is furrounded by a ditch on the eaft, and all fides but the eaft ; likewife with an outer wall on all but the eaft fide.—In the walls are feve- ral ftrata of tiles or Britifh bricks. From Pevenfey is a view of Hurftmounteux, dif- tant about five miles. Behind the King’s Head is a ruin’d building, built chapel- fafhion. There ( 48 ) There are two entrances, one at Peven- fey on the eaft, the other at Weftham on the weft, diftance about forty rod, and from the inner gate of caftle at Weftham, on to the waif on Pevenfey fide, about twenty-five rod. The circumference of the inner caftle feventy-five rod, and of the outer caftle or walls 250 rods. The infide of the inner caftle confifts principally of fix compleat arches in large towers, or baftions, of which there are two much larger than the others, which are fup- pofed to have been the kitchen and refe&ory, or eating-room, from the fize of the chim- nies and the door ways. The diameter of thefe towers is about twelve feet, the dif¬ tance about ten rod. A compleat mote round. The Bifhop of Bayonne and his forces, fuftained a fix weeks’ ftege, and for want of provifions were obliged to furrender to "William II. At this time fo much of Pevenfey is Handing, that perhaps it is the greateft ( 49 ) greateft and mod entire remains of Roman building in Great-Britain. The Rape is bounded on the eaft by the Rape of Haftings, on the South with the Englifh Channel, on the weft by the Rape of Lewes, and on the north by part of Kent. It contains in it thefe hundreds, viz. Alfifton, Danehill, Horded, Danehill-Shef- fleld. Dill, Eaftbourne, Eaft-Grinftead, Flex- borough, Foxfield-Kings; Hartfield, Isfield; Linfield, Longbridge, Ringemer, Rother- field, Ruftimonden, Sheplake, and Willing- ton; of thefe Hundreds we have no-parti¬ cular account, fave that we find the Flundred of Sheplake to have been the fee of Robert de Verre, Earl of Oxford, 33 Edw. III. As to the whole Rape, we fuppofe the fee to be at this time in the Crown, and the go¬ vernment to be in the Sheriff and his of¬ ficers. Pevenfey, called by the Saxons Peopen- rea, by the Normans Pevenfell, and now commonly Pemfey; we fet it in the firft place, becaufe we conceive when it gave the name ( 5 ° ) name of the Rape to it, it was the chief town, though no market town, fo far as wc can difcover. It was certainly of old a famous place for (hipping, for it is reckoned one of the feaports which Godwin Earl of Kent ravaged in Edward the Confef- lor's time, and took away many (hips; but now it is only acceffible by fmall boats, which crowd up a rill to it. What is fpoke me¬ morable of it in our hiilorians, we fhall fet down in the order of time in which it happened, viz. in 1049, Suane Earl of Ox¬ ford, Gloucefter, Hereford, Somerfet, and Berks, fon of Godwin, Earl of Kent, being forced to fly into Denmark, becaufe he had inveigled Edgiva, Abbefs of Leominfler, out of her houfe, with an intent to marry her, contrary to the laws of thofe times, return¬ ed with eight fhips, and landed at this town, where having obtained his coufm Beorn to mediate for him to the King, upon his pro- mife that for the future he would become a faithful fubjeH ; he took Beorn into his fhip, to carry him to the King, who was then at Sand- ( ) Sandwich, under pretence of making his peace ; but Suane having thus got him into his power, carried him to Dort, in Holland, where he inhumanly murdered him, and call his body into a deep ditch, covering it with mud. Aldred, Bifhop of Winchefter, ob¬ tained his pardon for alluring Edgiva; but his confcience could not pardon his treache¬ rous cruelty in murdering Beorn his kinfman, until he underwent the penance of going to Jerufalem barefoot, in which journey he got fo much cold, that he died thereof at Li- cia in his return home. / Upon the death of Edward the Confeffor, the crown of England was thought to be- long either to Edgar Etheling, or William Duke of Normandy ; but Harold Earl of Kent being then a leading man in the Eng¬ lish council, and very powerful, perfuaded' the nobles, that delays would be of very ill confequence, and fo got himfelf elefted and crowned King. Of the competitors the Duke of Normandy only was able to difpute the right, and accordingly having gotten ( 52 ) gotten Pope Alexander’s approbation, and a good army, he paiTed in 900 fhips, and landed them at this town, from whence, marching higher into the country, he came to a battle with Harold, whom having (lain, fighting valiantly, the Norman poffeffed him- felf of the throne, which defeended to his poflerity. King William, furnamed the Conqueror being fettled on the throne, gave this town to Robert Earl of Morton in Normany, his brother by the mother’s fide, and made him Earl of Cornwall,, which he enjoyed with divers other honours during that King’s reign; but in the reign of William Rufus, he took part with his brother Odo, Earl of Kent, in an infutreflion upon account of Robert Carthofe, and held out this caftle again!! that king; but as foon as the King's army came to befiege it, he furrendered it up to the King, and made his peace. He was a very devout perfon after the mode of thofe times; and befides what he did for other monafteries gave to the Abbey of Greiftein ( 53 ) Greiftein in Normandy, the houfe of one Angeler in this town, and granted to them in his foreft of Pevenfel, paunage, herb¬ age, with timber, for repair of their churches and houfes, and fuel for fire. When he died, we know not; but are certain that his heir and fucceflor, was William Earl of Moreton and Cornwall; he was a man of a malicious and arrogant fpirit; and becaufe King Henry did not gratify his unreafon- able defires in yielding to him the earldom of Kent, he joined with Robert de Belefme Earl of Shrewfbury, and ftirred up a rebel¬ lion againft him, which fo provoked the King, that he feized upon all his polfeffions, razed all his caftle to the ground, and ba- nifhed him the realm. King Henry being thus pofiefied of this town and caftle, gave them to Gilbert de Aquila, with all the lands thereunto be¬ longing, which were thereupon called the Honour of the Eagle, the caftle being at the head of it. He was fucceeded in this honour by Richer or Richard his fon, who D proving ( 54 ) proving rebellious in taking up arms againfl that King, to reflore William, Ton of Ro¬ bert Curthofe, to his father's honour, his elfate was alfo forfeited ; and this town and caftle came again into the King's hands. But Richer, by the interceffion of his uncle Fetro, being reconciled to the King, ob¬ tained them again : yet, being of an un¬ quiet fpirit, he engaged again in the fame rebellion, and the King being repofleffed of them, fettled them upon Henry Fitz- Emprefs ; who after long wars with King Stephen, to recover his right, compounded for his fucceffion, and affigned this town and caftle of Pevenfey, to William, fon of King Stephen, who held them till Henry attained to the throne, by the name and title of King Henry the II. : in 4 Henry II. fur- rendered them again to the King, upon con¬ dition that he Ihould have and enjoy by hereditary right, all the lands that were his father King Stephen's, before he was King of England. This honour being thus put into the King's hands, he reftored them to Richard ( 55 ) Richard de Aquila, whofe pofterity fome time enjoyed them quietly. In the reign of King Henry III. Gil¬ bert de Aquila the 3d. held this honour; and being a refolute perfon, was guilty of many disorders, and among others palled into Normandy without the King's leave, which was a crime fo great at that time, that he forfeited all his eftates for it; and tills honour being thus in the King's hands, was granted by him reg. 19, to Gilbert Marlhall Earl of Pembroke, during plea- fure; we fuppofe, becaufe the lame King, reg. 25, bellowed it on Peter de Savoy, his Queen's uncle, for his better fupport, on the fame terms: though afterwards he gave him the inheritance, together with the callle and all the appurtenances; yet, after¬ wards the fame King, reg. 53, gave the whole honour to Prince Edward, and his heirs. Kings of England, fo that it Ihould never be fevered from the crown. Yet, when John of Gaunt Duke of Lancaller, and fourth fon of King Edward the III. D 2 married ( ) carried Conftance foie daughter and heir of Don Pedro, King of Callile, in whole right he alfuraed the title of King of Callile ; he, upon furrendering his earldom of Rich¬ mond, and all callies and lands thereunto belonging, had a grant of the general tail of the .caltle, andleucate of Pevenfey : alfo of the free chapel within the faid caftle; which upon his death returned to the crown, by the acceflion of his fon and heir Henry IV. who fucceeded King Richard the II. foon after his father's death. But now there are no remains of the cnlile, but fomething of the old walls. Some part of this honour of the Eagle, King Henry IV; gave to the family of the Pelhams, for their loyalty and valour, which they ftill enjoy. By lQ Edw. II. liberty was granted to Robert de Sally, and Oliva his wife, to inclofe as much of Pevenfey Marfh as was then overflowed, and in the occupa¬ tion of no man, and to hold it of the faid King and his heirs, during their lives, for a pair of gilt fpurs; to be paid ( 57 ) paid into the Exchequer every St. John's Day, which demand was afterwards fuper- feded by his order. Martyrs who fujfered at Pevenfey. John Hart,ThomasRavenfdale,andafhoe~ maker and a currier, (of which two laft we have not their names,) were all burnt toge- gether in Pevenfey Rape in one fire : of thefe it is remarkable, that being at the flake, and ready to be put into the fire, they chearfully and joyfully yielded up their lives for the teftimony of the gofpel of Jefus Chrifl. They fuffered September the 14th,, 155 6 - Andrew Borde, in Latin Andreas Per- foratus, as he wrote himfelf, was a native of this town; he was educated at Wickham’s fchool and at Oxford; but before he took any degree, entered himfelf among the Carthu- fians at or near London, but was foon weary of their feverity, and returning to the Uni- verfity, applied himfelf to phyfic a while > and then travelled almofl through all D 3 Chriflendom, ( 58 ) Chiftendom, and fome parts of Africa. Be¬ ing come to England, he praHifed phyfic a little time at Winchefter, and then went into France, where he commenced doftor of phyfic at Montpelier, and being incor¬ porated in the fame degree at Oxford, lived in this place, and afterwards at Winchefter as a phyfician; yet not wholly forgetting his religious profeflion, he drank water three times a week, wore fackcloth, and every night hung his burial fheet at his beds-feet. He profeffed celibacy, and wrote againft fuch priefts and monks as married after the inonafteries were diffolved. Bifhop Poynet accufes him of fornication with three women; but others contend they were only patients : be that as it will, he muft be acknowledged a learned man, a good poet, and an excel¬ lent phyfician, and as fuch was phyfician to King Henry VIII. and a member of die College of Phylicians, London. He wrote feveral books, as well in phyfic as a breviary and dietary to health, of prognofticks and urines, as in other matters; an introdu6lion to ( 59 ) to knowledge, and an hiftory of all the re¬ gions and countries in the world; befides fome for diverfion and mirth, as die tale of the Men of Gotham, and Milner and Alding¬ ton. He died a prifoner in the Fleet, April 1549; yet 'tis probable not for debt, becaufe he left in his will, two houfes at Lynn in Norfolk, and his goods, and chat¬ tels in his houfe, at Wincheder, to one Richard Matthew, whom he eondituted his heir, without any mention of kindred at all. Before we quit Pevenfey, it may not be unentertaining to infert the following anec¬ dote. At a quarter feffions fome years back, a man was brought to the bar, charged with dealing a pair of buckfkin breeches, which charge being fully proved, he was found guilty by the jury; but when the court were informed that the offence was a capital one, and that they mud proceed to pafs fentence, they were fo much alarmed, that they wifh- ed to reverfe the verdift, and give a frelh one, in fuch words as to make the confe- quence lefs than death; they therefore ad- D 4 journed ( 6o ) journed the court, and difpatched a raeffen- ger to Thomas Willard, Efq. of Eaft- bourne, the then town-clerk, (whofe deputy was on that day attending) to beg his opi¬ nion whether it was poffible to reverfe the prefent verdicl, and receive afrefh one, to¬ gether with his inftructions how to proceed. It happened that Lord Wilmington, to whom this place at that time belonged, with the then Chief Baron of the Exchequer, were at dinner with Mr. Willard, when this curi¬ ous application arrived, to whom Mr. W. having reported the contents*, the Chief Baron jocofely faid, Infiruft them to re¬ verfe the prefent verdift, and bring it in * f Manflaughter,” to which Lord Wilming¬ ton confenting, Mr. W. advifed according¬ ly, and a new verdi£l to that effect was abfolutely the confequence. From hence over a fine gravelly road* through the marfhes well covered with fine oxen and fheep, pafs through the village of Warding, prettily fituate on a hill, to Hurft-Mounceux* Hurft or Herd, the lord- fhip ( 6x ) (hip and eftate of Godwin Earl of Kent, as appears by the Conqueror's furvey, call¬ ed Domefday book : he left feveral fons, of which King Harold, who loft the crown to the Conqueror, was the eldeft, and loft his eftates with his life at Lewes in this coun¬ ty. It is probable, it was given by the Con¬ queror to William de Warren, not only his kinfman by blood, but one who valiantly fought for him againft Harold, and much contributed to his vidlory ; for John de Warren, Earl of Warren and Surry, de¬ fended from him, procuring a fair yearly for this place on the feaft of St. Lawrence, Auguft 10, 6 Edward II.: he afterwards fettled it, with his other eftates on the crown, as is fhewn in Felpham. H U B, S T - M O N C E U X , A village fituate among the woods, being from its woody fituation called at firft Herji; for the Saxons called a- wood Hyrjl. This place foon after the coming in of the Nor¬ mans was the feat of a family of gentlemen, D 5 who ( 62 ) who took their name from the place, and were called De Herd, for fome fucceffions, till William the fon of Walleran de Herft, (for what reafon is not known) took the name of Monceaux, in Hampfhire, in Henry II/s time, which was at length for diftin&ion’s fake, annexed to the village itfelf, and fo it hath been long called Herft-Monceux; from it’s Lords. Male-iiTue failing in this fa¬ mily of Monceux, John de Fiennes of Old Court, in the adjoining parifh of Wart- ling, married the female heir, who brought this manor and feveral other eftates of her anceftors into his family, and their heir Robert inherited them. Roger the great grandfon of John, made the manor-houfe here his feat, and obtained a licence of King Henry VI. to make a caftle of it, and enlarge his park there with fix hundred acres of land, and left it at his death to his fon Rich¬ ard de Fiennes, Fenes, or Fienes. Thefe Fiennes are defcended from Inge- bram de Fienes, who took to wife Sibil de Tyngrie, daughter and heir of Fharamufe de ( 63 ) deBoloigne, who was defended of the Earls of Bologne, and nephew to Maude the wife of King Stephen. Richard de Fiennes above mentioned, being thus nobly defend¬ ed, was knighted and made Chamberlain to King Edw. IV. and having before married Joan, the daughter and foie heir of Tho¬ mas Lord Dacre, was by reafon thereof created by letters^patent, 37 Henry VI. accepted, declared and fummoned to par¬ liament as a Baron of this realm, under the name and title of Lord Dacre: but this Lord did not enjoy her inheritance without di(turbance for fome time; for Humphry Dacre, fecond fon of Thomas Lord Dacre, fued this Lord for fome part of her lands, and the honour itfelf; but King Edward IV. who was chofe honorary arbitrator be¬ tween them, having heard their feveral pleas, conferred the honour and eftate to him the faid Richard, Joan s wife, and the heirs of their bodies, lawfully begotten, becaufe fhe was the next and right heir of Thomas Lord Dacie abovementioned; and fo the fam.ly D 6 of ( 64 ) of Fiennes continued Lords Dacres, as long asiffue-male continued in their direft line, as we fhall fhew anon : Richard de Fiennes, the firft Lord Dacres, having been made conftable of the Tower, one of King Ed¬ ward IVth's privy council, and attended the parliament as a Baron from 38 Henry VI. to 22 Edward IV. departed this life 2 Rich¬ ard III. in poffeffion of this manor, and buried in the parifh church there, dedicated to All Saints, as was Joan his wife, who died 1 Henry VII. and were fucceeded by their ion and heir Thomas de Fiennes: He was a flout defender of the Lancaflrian title in Xing Henry Vllth's reign; both againft the Cornifhmen and the Scots, and having been fummoned to parliament from 11 Henry VII. to 21 Henry VIII. died in the fame reign, and was buried in this parifh church, on the north fide of the high altar; appoint¬ ing by his teftament, that a tomb fhould be made there for him, and the fupulchre of our Lord placed thereon, with tapers of to pound weight burning about it, and that an ( 6 5 } an hone ft prieft fhould ftng for his foul, feven years, and to have yearly twelve marks fter- ling for his falary, and to find bread for the facrament, wine and wax. This family of Fennys failed 36 Elizabeth, in the iffue-male, and Margaret filter of Gregory Fenys, mar¬ rying to Sampfon Leonard, Efq. carried their eftate and honour into his family, who thereupon became Lord Dacre; whofe fon Richard fucceeded him, and died in this'place. His grandfon Thomas was created Earl of Suffex 26 Charles II. He lived there, and ornamented it with ftucco-work, carved deling, See. and by will is now the property of the Rev. Mr* Hare. The foil of this place, for the chief part, is of a rich light mould, and may juftly be allowed to be one of the belt cultivated fpots in the county of Suffex, and produces fine barley and other grain; and the marfh land in Pevenfey level, (belonging to the parifh,) is rich pafturage for cattle, which has been greatly improved within thefe fifty or fixty ( 66 ) fixty years by draining. One Sir Roger Fiennes, treafurer of the houfehold to Henry VI. had licence to embattle his feat here, which he rebuilt in a magnificent man¬ ner, as it now {lands, which perhaps is one of the larged and firmed pieces of brick¬ work in the kingdom, for the time it has been built; a good view of which may be feen among Buck’s Views of Cadies, and a copy of it, in the defcription of England and Wales, publifhed by Newberry : there is a mote round it, which has been kept dry for many years, and the fides planted with fruit trees ; but is eafily filled, by the ponds above it. In the year 1773, it was pof- feffed by Francis Hare Naylor, Efq. The park furrounding this feat, is well flocked with beech, which have been ef- teemed the larged and fined in the kingdom: adjoining to the park, dands a church, in which are fome curious monuments of the Lords Dacres; particularly one, of Tho¬ mas Lord Dacre, who going out one night with other young folks, to take a deer out of ( *7 ) of his neighbour Sir Nicholas Pelham's park, a fray enfued between the the park- keepers, and the party with which he was not, in which one of the keepers received an unfortunate blow, of which after fome days he died : this was adjudged murder, and not only thofe of that party, who were prefent in the fa£l, but alfo thofe who were about, were equally guilty; and in confequence, this Lord Dacre fuffered death; and was much pitied from his excellent eharabler, and being only twenty-four years of age; and the King's rigour much difapproved, for not (hewing mercy. But his great eflate the courtiers gaped after, they were however difappointed, being too Hrongly entailed. Though the building is not fo extenfive as Pevenfey* yet equally well worth feeing, and is in better prefervation, though gra¬ dually decrealing, by being taken down for other buildings and repairs. It Hands in the midft of a large park well wooded with (lately beech, and diverfified by hills and dales, and watered by clear pools. ( 68 ) pools, and a' mote round it; a fine view- over the levels to Pevenfey, Tea in front, and the fouth Downs rife mountain-like on the weft; a large hall on the north, a kit¬ chen, ftair-cafe, ; a long gallery, and confifts of a great number of noble apartments* The entrance grand on the fouth, through the gateway in a fpacious court, cluftered round the caftie enclofes three courts. At the end of the park is a very hanclfome mo¬ dern building, occupied by Mr. Hare, to whom this whole eftate, (which was left by Mr. Naylors will, to Hare Biihop of Chi- chefter,) now belongs. There is a very elegant dining parlour, a large bow, and two recedes, lofty ceiling, fome pretty good pictures: out of which into a handfome drawing-room, there is a very curious geometrical circular ftair-cafe, lighted by a fky-light. The village and church of Hurftmoun- ceux, has a pretty effedfrom the houfe and grounds; from hence pafs through Bore- ham, to Lord Afhburnham’s grounds, which as ( 6 9 ) as well as his houfe and woods may be worth feeing, in the road to Battle. Pleafant rides in the woods and walks in the gar¬ den, which are well flocked with curious plants. A large piece of water, with a bridge over it, at the feat of the Earl of Afhburnham, prettily fituated in a flickered bottom, and in a beautiful park, well wood¬ ed and watered, having a fine hanging wood in front; is well furnifhed, and fome’ very fine pi&ures. The church is behind' the houfe, and in it are monuments for Sir William Afhburnham and his lady, daughter of Lord Butler, of Herts; firfl married to the Earl of Marlborough, who* left her a widow, joung, rich and beauti¬ ful. The infcription wiitten by Sir William* fays, {he was a great lover o£ and blelfing to his family. He acknowledges it with the greateft gratitude, and recommends her me¬ mory to be cherifhed by then*. Both their figures are whole lengths, in white mar¬ ble ; her’s recumbent leaning on her hand ; his, kneeling in a loofe gown and grea £ flowing ( 7 ° ) flowing wig. There is another monument for his elder brother, and his two wives, whofe figures in white marble are recum¬ bent ; he, placed between them in armour, one of them in a winding fheet, the other in a baronefs’ robe. The infcription men¬ tions, that his father through good-nature to his friends, was obliged to fell this place, (in his family long before the Conqueft) and all the eftates he had, not leaving to his wife and fix children the leaft fubftance, which is not mentioned to the difadvan- tage of his memory; but to give Godpraife, who fo fuddenly provided for his wife and children ; that, within two years after his death, there was not one but was in a con¬ dition rather to help others than want fup- port. His firfi: wife made the firfi: fiep to¬ ward the recovery of fome part of his inhe¬ ritance, felling her whole eftate to lay out the money in this place.*—He built this church.—This Mr. Afhhurnham contrived the efcape of Charles I. from Hampton- Court. Ill ( 7 1 ) In the church adjoining the houfe, are preferved in a cheft and may be feen, the fhirt, drawers, (and watch, which he gave to Air. Afiiburnham,) which King Charles had on when he was beheaded,and the ffieetwhich was thrown over him after the execution. In the church is the family vault, which for its capacioufnefs, and drynefs, i was burnt by the French, who taking the opportunity of fome difcontents in the beginning of that king’s reign, thruft into the the haven of Rye, with fifty fliips, and rifled and burnt that town, and from thence proceeded to Winchelfea; but being beaten off there, did the fame to this place. After its rebuilding, it was divided into two parifnes, as it now remains. Near this town, in 1263, there was a battle fought between the armies of King Edward the III. led by Prince Edward his ( 9 1 ) his Ton, and Simon de Montford, Earl of Leicefler, who headed the Barons, fighting for the obfervation of the ftatutes of Oxford, which the King, though fworn to keep, had refufed to do. The Barons had the better, and taking the King and Prince prifoners, refolved to oblige them to a fecond confir¬ mation of them; but while this was doing, there happened a quarrel among the Barons themfelves. and Prince Edward efcanincr 9 i O-** reduced them to his terms by the battle of Evefham, and fo peace, after fome time, was reftored. This town was deftroyed by an inunda¬ tion of the fea, in the reign of Henry IV. whereupon Sir John Pelham, Knight, by a licence obtained of the fame monarch, founded for the canons another habitation or church at Warbilton. King Henry IV, Reg. 14. granted them towards their fup- port, the manor of Withiham, then valued at 25I. 5s. 5d. per annum, for twenty years, which eflate was part of the pofleffions of .Morteyn, an alien Priory, at that time feized ( 9 2 ) feizecl into the King’s hands by reafoff of his wars with France. At the fuppreflion it was valued at 51k 9s. 5jd. per annum* Dugd. 57I. 19s.—Speed ex Let. The harbour of Mailings, which was for¬ merly famous, being the chief of the Cinque Ports, and from which the town was obliged to furnifh the king with twenty (hips upon any naval expedition, in recompence for the ample immunities it enjoys, is now a poor road for frnall veffels; it having been ruined by the florins which from time to time have been fo fatal to the neighbouring ports. Rye and Winchelfea, and it hill continues a very indifferent one, though great fums have been laid out in order to recover it. Here is how r ever a cuftom-houfe and tw T o charity fchools, in which are faid to be taught two or three hundred children ; and the in¬ habitants amount to about tw 7 o thoufand, five hundred, who are chiefly employed in the hilling trade; great quantities of hih being taken upon this coail and lent to London. Mailings has a market on Wednefdays and Saturdays* ( 93 ) Saturdays, with three fairs held on Whit- fun-Tuefday the 26th of July* and 23d of Oftober, for pedlars’ goods. The road to Haflings opens pleafantly on a fine terrace abounding with fine and ex- tenfive profpecls of both land and fca. On the left hand, near Haflings, pafs a noble building and park of General Murray’s, who brought the arms of France from Quebec, and prefented them to one of the Jurats of Haflings ; another feat on the right belong¬ ing to Mr. Pelham, in whofe parks are fine, woods, on a defcent for near two miles, through a pleafant fhady lane to the town, which is moil comfortably fituated. It con- lifts chiefly of two flreets, though there are feveral fmall back flreets. There are two large churches ; it being very populous, owing to a confiderabie fifhery for herrings, which are dried here, and are diflributed in many parts of the kingdom* In the long flreet are the principal buildings, feveral of which are very good, and inhabited in ( 94 ) in the fummer by companies referring thi¬ ther for the benefit of fea air and bathing. There are alfo fome very handfome man- fions built with brick and ftone, belong¬ ing to the families of Mil ward, Plummer, Capel and Hamet; a very good affembly- room, at a moil commodious and good inn. The remains of an old caftle and walls, which was built by William L and is now the pro¬ perty of Lord Pelham, on Rocky-Cliffs, weft of the town, are very noble and ro¬ mantic ; and here, or at Pevenfey, was pro¬ bably Anderida, one of the Roman garri- fons,—The fortrefs is fuppofed to be built before the Romans landed; for when Avi- ragus threw oft' the Roman yoke, he forti¬ fied the places moft convenient for invauon. On a hill near the town, called Fanlight, is a moft extenfive and delightful profpecf both of the Englifh and French coaft, from the cliffs about Boulogne to the Ifle of Wight, an extent of near feventy miles. The following diftich may not perhaps be inferted mal-a-propos ; Has™ ( 95 ) Has— Dov— Sea— Hy—■ Sand— Rum— Win— Rye. Having made obfervation of every thing worthy attention at this place, purfue another rout back toEaft-Bourne; to accomplifh which ride along the beach, and under the cliffs, which appear almod covered with impend¬ ing rocks, and many in the road, and crof- (ing the valley that leads to Mr. Pelham’s; the ground riling gently toNunhide Haven* near which are ruins of a chapel: it is laid King William landed here, and betwxen this and Hadings, a done is fhewn, as the table whereon he eat his dinner. From hence go through fome delightful agreeable lanes by a profpe£l-houfe, belong¬ ing to Mr. Pelham, to B E X H I L L. A fmall but pleafant village, fituated on an eminence, that commands the whole bay from Hadings to Beachy-head, as well as a fine ( 96 ) fine fertile, woody, and inclofed country behind. In the church window, were two figures fuppofed portraits of Henry III. and Queen Eleanor ; but lately by permiffion of the Bifhop of Chichefter were taken away by Lord Afhburnham and Mr. Walpole, and may now be feen at the houfe of the latter, at Strawberry-hill: it is about two miles from the fea. From hence defcend gradually through fliady lanes, and over fhort com¬ mons (or on the fands about eight miles, if the tide permits, which may be learnt at Bexhill,) to thofe fine marfhes already de- fcribed, .that lead again to Pevenfey, the ruins of which will be feen in another point of view 7 , and pafs through it to Eaft* Bourne. As there are two roads to the village of Willingdon, and to avoid going up a hill, turn on the right hand, at the end of the town, juft beyond the Cuftom-houfe: go through fertile corn fields, palling a pretty fliady grove on the left, and on to a gate and. road,. ( 97 ) road, which leads through Mr. Thomas’s grounds, at Ratten, where may not only be feen the remains of the old houfe, well wooded, and a good garden, but alfo a pretty new building, as naked and expofed on the declivity of the hill, under the downs. The profpetts from the houfe amply make up for the blacknefs of fituation ; having under it, a fine woody inclofed country, rich marfhes away to Pevenfey, and an extenfive view of the fea, country, and villages to Haftings; pafs through a narrow fliady and pleafant lane to W I L L I N G D 6 N, a fmall, but agreeable fpot, fituated on an eminence, commanding views of the wTole country, bounded on one fide by romantic hills under the downs: and for beauty of profpeCt, by all means, walk round the churchyard, and on return, flop at the Red- lion Inn,where there is good accommodation on a fhort notice, and be amufed with a fmall collection of natural curiofities; the land- ( 98 ) \ land-lord being an ingenious clever fellow, having been in India and elfewhere : the views from the houfe are pleafant, and from which fome cottages, that appear almoft un¬ der ground, have a very romantic appear¬ ance. Return to Eaft-Bourne, by the Decoy for Ducks, which for its extenfive pleafant and fhady walks, by the fide of the waters, where the fnares are laid, is worthy of obfer- vation, as well as the whole procefs of that bufmefs, may be agreeable to be made ac¬ quainted with ; in going to which, pafs by a good farm, and through pleafant grounds, belonging to Mr. Denman. Alfo walk round an excellent kitchen- garden, the property of Mr. Thomas, left to the care of a gardener, who fupplies the neighbourhood with good vegetables on moderate terms. From hence up a very pleafant fhady lane, to a horizontal mill, for corn, which may be worthy of examination ; from hence the farm and grounds of RADMELL, f S9 ) RAD M E L L, The demefne of Harold Earl of the Weft Saxons, who afterwards became king; but being (lain by the.Normans, at Battel, in this county, the Conqueror feized on all his lands, and gave this lordfhip, with divers others in this county and elfewhere, to Wil¬ liam de Warren, Earl of Surry, whofe pof- terity enjoyed it, until John de Warren, dying without iifue, Alice his filler became his heir, and by marriage transferred her he¬ reditary eftates into the family of Fitz- Allans, Earls of Arundel. Richard having forfeited them, this manor was given to Tho¬ mas Mowbray, See. This farm is very agree¬ able to the eye; continue on a fine terrace, through a narrow fhady lane, by Mr. Augur's, a pretty place, down to Eaft-Bourne. When at Wiilingdon, the ride might have extended either to Haylfham or Je- vington, therefore an account of each ride may not be improperly given here: firft then from Wiilingdon to Jevington, go through ( 100 ) through Warnock, and many lanes which afford a very agreeable fhade : From War- nock, go through gentlernen's and farmers* grounds by F O K I N G T O N. a large manfion, now belonging to the fa¬ mily of the Doubells ; anciently the lord- (hip of Roger la Warn, who in 13 Ed¬ ward I. obtained the King’s licence for a free warren in all his demefne lands here, and dying 14 Edward II. left it fo privileged to his fon John, who departed this life, 24 Edward III. leaving it with many other edates in the county, to Roger his grandfon, (his elded fon John dying in his life time) and leaving him his heir, who alfo died poffeffed of it, 44 Edward III. and left it to Sir John la Warr his fon and heir, whole brother Thomas la Warr, Re&or of the church of Mancheder, was his heir; and dying without idiie, left this manor with his other edate, to Reginald Wed, fon of Sir Thomas Wed, by Joan his wife, daugh¬ ter ( lOi ) t, f f ■ y.- t H A Y L S LI A M, A large fcattered town, indifferently built, but a go6d church, from whence an exten- five profped, being rather a high fituation: here was an abbey of Premonftratention ca¬ nons founded in the reign of King Henry II. and dedicated to the Virgin Mary and St. Lawrence, but removed in the reign of King John, to Begehem, in Kent. In the way to Eaft-Bourne, pafs G L Y N L E Y, though better known by the appellation of Greenlee, an ancient building formerly be¬ longing to the family of the Faggs, but now to Lady Peachy; a very agreeable fituation, and a comfortable houfe, always kept in per- F 2 fed { 104 ) feet order, though not inhabited by her Ladyfhip : a fine grove of trees in front^ fifh-ponds and woods behind, a good kitchen- garden, and pleafant views from the houfe, of downs, Willingdon, Haylfham, and in¬ land country. Pafs Prieft-hall, an ancient building, now a farm-houfe, through pleafant fhady lanes, to Langley turnpike ; on the left of which, a large farm houfe of Mr. Medley’s, the infide of which is very ancient and romantic, as from the remains of a cha¬ pel and refedtory, it bears a monaflic appear¬ ance : So proceed on a flat gravelly road to the Sea-houfes, Eaft-Bourne, having the fea on the left, and a mo ft beautiful country on the right, bounded by the downs. HUBERTS, and other Huts or Houses, Situated on the fea beach, at the back of Pevenfey, which are much frequented and admired, for various views of that place, and of the fea, where as well as in this bay, there is generally good fifhing, and where there is alfo good accommodation for drink¬ ing tea, coffee, Sc c. As ( ) As a defcription of the different roads to Lewes may be agreeable to moft vifitors to that town, the neareft and moft pleafant way in fummer is by Jevington, fo fhall be¬ gin an account from that place. The road thereto having already been fufficiently de- fcribed ; afcend a long hill from the downs, gradually to the top of Windore-hill, from the fummit thereof, are very extenfive views; particularly of the Weald of Suffex. At the bottom of the hill, is the village of ALFRISTON, Down to which an immenfe natural amphi¬ theatre, right between the hills, whofe Tides and bottom are covered with the fineft ver¬ dure, interfperfed with good and agreeable fituated farms, particularly Mr. Bean’s of Clapton, and a large houfe in ruins, belong¬ ing to the Chownes, burntfeveral years ago; there is alfo a fine ftream of water, which rifes here, and lofes itfelfin the Wealds. . This village lyes on the river Cuckmere, and is beautifully fituated in a valley, be- F 3 tween ( ) tween thofe vaft cliffs of chalk, which form> the fouth downs, and whofe fouthern extre¬ mity is Beachy-head. Whether we are to underhand the name as importing Alfred’s town or Old Frifton, by way of diftinffon from Frifton, a village nearer the fea, it feerns to have been formerly more confider- abie : the tradition of the inhabitants is, that it was much larger, and the fize of the church fupports their aifertion : it is a large building of flint, in the form of a crofs, with a fquare tower in the middle, on which is a fhingled fpire; it does not appear extremely ancient, nor has it any monuments; a few fmall figures remain in the tracery of its. windows, among the reft Sens Alphegus : the patron faint is Nicholas; and it is a re0;ory in the deanery of Pevenfey,and in the sift of the crown* Near the centre of the town Hands a crofs, a pillar of two or three ftones, about twelve feet high, tending to a point, with a capital, and a top, and mount¬ ed on four fteps: here is an inn, noticed for its antiquity; on a piece of timber, oa one ( 10 7 ) one fide of the door, is carved a bifhop, in his robes and mitre, a globe in his right hand, his left lifted up, or on his bread, a dag at his feet; on one fide the door, is a fret, on the other a religieufe in a fjuare cap, more damaged than the reft; near the fign-poft is a dog, and a grotefque figure holding a bottle and a flafk; at the corner next the yard, a lion and a boar or bear, holding a kind of a mace, crowned: if one could be fure this lafl animal was a horfe, it would prove this houfe to have belonged to the Howard family, as a fret is quartered with their arms, on fome of their monuments: under the window, above the door, are two fnakes, their tails entwined, with a niche, or tabernacle over them; under the other window a grotefque reprefentation of St. Michael fighting with the dragon. On the bracket of the main beam of the parlour cieling is a fhield, inferibed with the name of Jefus. The mantle-tree in the kitchen is wood, adorned with blank fhields. By the flair cafe is a door, flopped up, with old F 4 flow- ( i°8 ) flowering over it. The chambers above correfpond with thofe below in the folidity of their timber-work, but have no orna¬ ments ; fome of which were at the town races in 1786, and in the flewardffiip of Sir Henry Blackman and Mr. Royer, convert¬ ed into an alfembly-room. In a field fouth of the town is a large barrow, of an oval form ; its greateft length is from north to fouth, the north end loweft, or perhaps levelled. One might fufpeft the hero left his name to the town, were it not that Alfredftown, in Derbyfhire, is now wrote Alfreton, and not Aldfrifton ; but from whence the village de¬ rives its name is uncertain, but more likely from fome Saxon owner, than from its fenio- rity to Frifton. From what authority the pa¬ tron faint is faid to be Nicholas, is not afcer- tained; it being affirmed to be Andrew in Browne Willis’s Parochiale Anglicanum. The defcription and reprefentation of the carved work at the inn are veryjuft,except that the cha. rafters on the ffiield in the parlour have adaffi over ( 109 ) over them; which chara&ers may (land for Jefus, the dafh fhewing it to be a contra&ed word. By the grotefque figure near the fign-poft, holding a bottle. Sc c. the houfe feems to have been built for the fame ufe it is now appropriated to, viz. for the enter¬ tainment of travellers, or more patticularly for religious pilgrims, or mendicant friars ; as likewife an afylum to perfons that fled from juftice, it being within the jurifdi&ion of Battle-Abbey; for in Jeaque’s Charters of the Cinque Ports, we have an account of one John Burrel, who in the eighth year of King Henry VIII. having ftolen a horfe at Lidd in Kent, fled to this village for re¬ fuge, there faid to be within the jurifdi&ion of the abbot and convent of Battle, to which abbey William the Norman, as appears by a charter of Henry I. gave the manor and hundred of Alcifton, of which Alfrefton is a part. The perfon in the bifhop's robes, carved on one fide the door, is fuppofed might be done for an abbot, thofe of Battle being mitred; the other perfon, reprefented F 5 in ( no ) in a fqiiare cap, might be a monk of that monaftery, who might be at the expence of having this houfe ere&ed : he might poffibly be one of the family of Echingham, who were fome ages paft of great note in this county ; and from the fret on the other fide of the door it feems very probable ; the arms of Echingham being argent, a fret azure. The mantle-tree in the kitchen is hone and not wood. Among the natural curiofities and anti¬ quities in Suffex, pits of the fame form as thofe in Dorfetfhire are to be feen on feveral parts of the South Downs; but the moll are on that part that lyes between the rivers Oufe and Adur, in the neighbourhood of Lewes, Brighthelm- Hone, &c.; but none fo large as thofe of Dorfetfhire are faid to be, nor do they lye fo clofely conjoined together : for what ufe thefe pits were defigned, or by whom made, is perhaps difficult to be known; but one thing feems very plain, and that is, that they were made by art, as the foil feems firm and chalky. C ) chalky. On firft viewing them it may be concluded that they were the work of fome remote age ; and perhaps nothing more pro¬ bable than for them to be made by the Bri¬ tons for fome religious ufe. All along the fea coaft, between Shore- ham and Brighthelmftone, is found w,afhed up, bituminous fubftances, exa&ly agreeing with the defcription of the Kimerage coal, called by the inhabitants ftrumbolo, and which till of late years was the chief fuel of the poor inhabitants of Brighthelmftone, who were very careful to pick it up after it was brought up by the tide : but fince that town has become more populous, by the refort of the gentry, it has grown out of ufe, on ac¬ count of the naufeous fmell it emits at burn¬ ing. As no firatum of this foffil is to be found in the cliffs on the coait of Suffex, it muft confequently be formed at the bottom of the fea, and by the violent agitation of the water be torn up and brought on fhore by the tide. On almoft all parts of the South Downs F 6 may ( “2 ) may be feen great numbers of barrows, fome of which are large and fcattered, fingly here and there one; on other parts they are fmal- ler, and a great many together; they are chiefly of a round form, with a trench round their balls, and a circular cavity on their top. There are likewife fome few of the long kind* the longelt of which is on the hill near Ald- frilton, which is about 130 feet in length ; it has three cavities on the top, like thofe of the round falhion, one being at each end, and the other near the middle, with a ditch on each fide. A few years fince, this barrow was opened in part at the north end* "but no figns of interment difcovered. Whether Britons, Romans or Danes had the greateft fliare in ere&ing thefe lafting monuments to the dead, there is perhaps no certain proof of, as it is agreed they all ere&ed fuch monuments, and all adopted the cuftom of crementation, and depofiting the alhes in an urn. According to Olaus Wormius, the Danes raifed long barrows over their fea com- manders ( 1*3 ) inanders who died or were (lain in battle, they being made to reprefent a fhip, as a diftinguifhing mark of honour from other officers, who probably had other forms of interment. The chiefeft part of the barrows or tu¬ muli of a bell fafhion, with a fink in the middle; fome are double, feme Tingle, others treble; fome few there are of the long kind, one in particular at Aldfrifton is fifty-five yards long, with three finks, one at each end, and one in the middle, with a deep ditch on each fide, from whence the earth was thrown which compofes it. A gentleman at Aldfrifton had the curiofity to have one of the circular ones opened in 1763, and accordingly begun on the fouth fide, and at a few feet in depth found the fkeleton of a man lying on its fide, in a con- trafled form, with the head to the weft : the bones were very hard and firm, owing to the ground on which they lay, which was a bed of chalk. During the digging, ten knives were found of a different make, iron fpikes, charcoal. ( 1*4 ) cliarcoal, and a thin piece of yellow metal, bones of brute animals, &c. In the middle, under a pyramid of flints, was found an urn, holding about a gallon of burnt bones and allies; it was carefully placed on the chalk rock, with about four feet of earth over it; was of unbaked clay, and had fome rude ornaments on the verge of it. Mr. Lucas of Aldfrifton was in poffeffion of it, with the knives. See. At the latter end of the fummer, in the year 1765, a perfon digging flints at the fame place where other difeoveries had been made, and opening a barrow or tumuli, or, as they are called by the inhabitants, burghs, found three urns of different flzes, carefully placed with their mouths down¬ wards, full of burnt bones and afnes; but the urns were too far decayed to be pre- ferved whole. People are divided in their conje£lures concerning thefe tumuli, whe¬ ther they were raifed over thofe (lain in battle, or were the common burying-places of ( 11 5 ) of the original inhabitants : by the different fizes of the, urns this probably was a family vault. Lately a perfon digging flints near an old- camp, Wolfonbury-Hall, about ten miles weft of Lewes, found feveral human fkele- tons, with each a warlike weapon lying by their fide, refembling a common hanger ; thefe were probably (lain in battle, and were buried without any monument or tumuli raifed over them. WILMINGTON. On the brow of the hill are the remains of the caftie. Sec, On the fide of a hill is the figure of a man, eighty yards in length, which, by the different fhades of grafs, each hand appears to grafp a ftaff in a parallel dire&ion with the body. The fpot was for¬ merly paved with bricky, which make the difference of the verdure. At Arlington, near this place, is found a variety of petri¬ fied wood in a fand-pit.—From hence, through pleafant lanes, to FIRLE, ( n6 ) F I R L E, Formerly belonging to the St. Clares, but now to the Gages, who married one of the heirs of that family ; and is now in the pof- feffion of Lord Gage, whofe hofpitality and benevolence are too well known to make any comment on. He has much improved the eftate, and has extended the buildings,, which are very comfortable and agreeable, being well furnifhed, and contain many good pictures. It is furrounded with wood, and a large piece of water; many pleafant rides through and about the park, which pafs through and by the village of Firle, and through Glynde *, where the Trevor family have a good houfe. From hence, through pleafant lanes, and over rifing grounds, on * Glynn in the Britilh tongue fignifies a valley ; and bourn or burn , a ftream, water, or rivulet in the Saxon* a fine ( H7 ) a fine terrace, having on the left-hand a plea- lant country; till turning the cliff at Lewes, when you fuddenly fee the town, and the river on the left-hand, intermixed with vil¬ lages. Near this place, at Mount Coburn, was a Danifli camp, from whence a mod extcnfive profpeft towards Pevenfey, Hafl- ings to the ead and north-ead, though ob- drufted by hills on the north and fouth, ex¬ cept a little to the fouth-wed, where the fea is vifible towards Newhaven. ROMAN CAMP, COBURN, Is round, fcarce three furlongs in cir¬ cuit; its ditch very broad and deep, and the rampart within very high. The places where the tents were pitched are yet vifible, which, from the drength of the outworks, intimates that thofe within held it no fmall time. Near a quarter of a mile wed of it is a drong work, much larger, but not fo perfeft, yet fecure enough to prevent the enemy from making excurfions to Lewes. As C *18 ) As there are fo many and better defcrip- tions of Lewes, it is not prefamed to give any account thereof, but only to defcribe another road back by Ringmer, to do which afcend the hill going out of Lewes on the London road, at the top of which turn on the right, when pa-fs through fome pleaiant lanes and by fome pretty villas, from whence Yiews of the country on your left to LAUGHTON, An ancient feat belonging to the Pelhams, frtuate in a pariih of that name, about five miles north-eaft of Lewes, in a marfhy ground. This houfe was built by one of the Pelhams 1534, as appears by an infcrip- lion round and in the buckles, which are fixed to the walls all the wrong way upwards in the buckle. This houfe was furrounded by a mote, had a draw-bridge and feveral watch towers,, the ruins of which are now remaining. The houfe was built of brick, and is now repaired for a farm houfe. The * ( H9 } The following infcription is at Laughton : Johan . de Pelham dans le temps de Edouard III. 1356, a la guerre de PoiEliers en pre- nant le Roi de France prifonier y avoit donne. pour Enfeign d’honneur le Boucle y &- Roger la War le Chape de VEpe la Boucle etoitportez. aut foix aux deux Cotes d"un Cage y 1503. This was the LordOiip of Giles Lord Badlefmere, 12 Edward III. who died then poffeffedof it without iffue, and left his great eftates to his four fillers, of whom Maud, the eldeft, and then wife to John de Vere*, Earl of Oxford, had this manor affigned her for her lhare in the divifion, who after her deceafe and her hufband's, left it, with their honour and eftates, to Thomas de Vere, their fon and heir; he died feized of it 45 Edward III. leaving it to Albrecht his fon and heir. LIow or when this manor was alienated from the Oxford family we do not find, but obferve from our hiftories, that the family of Pelham have flourifhed here for many ages, in the degree of knights,, though they have but lately been admitted among ( 120 } among the nobility. Sir Thomas Pelham being made a baron of this realm by Queen Anne, reg. 5. by the title of Lord Pelham of Laughton, anno 1706. His fon, Tho¬ mas -Holies Pelham, was Duke of New- caftle. To evince the antiquity of the family of Pelhams, and their long fettlement in this place, we obferve that John Pelham of Laughton, Efq. was High Sheriff of the counties of Suifexand Surrey, 2 Henry IV. and had been knight of the fhire in Parlia¬ ment the foregoing year, and either the fame, or his fon, ferved in the fame poll, 8 Henry V. Several other of this family of Pelhams were men of note in their time, as John Pel¬ ham, knight of the fhire, 5 Henry VI.; Sir Nicholas Pelham, high fheriff of Surry and Suffex, 3 Edward VI.; Anthony Pelham, Efq. 7 Elizabeth; John Pelham, Efquire, 13th Elizabeth; Henry Pelham, Efquire, 17 Elizabeth; Thomas Pelham, Efquire, 31 Eliza- ( 121 ) 31 Elizabeth; and Henry Pelham., 32 Eliza¬ beth. Sir William Pelham, knight, a perfon of great eminence in the reign of Queen Eliza- beth, who having had fome experience of his prudence’ in peace, and valour in war, employed him in Ireland, where, being, by her council appointed Lord Juftice, to go^ vern in the interval between the death of Sir, William Drury and the arrival of Sir Arthur Gray, as Lord Lieutenant, he did the Queen this fignal fcrvice, that he broke the force of Defmund’s rebellion, though he could not totally prevent it, and delivered the kingdom up to Lord Gray, after one year’s government, much better than he found it, and in a better fituation than it had been for fixty years before ; for by his care and diligence the people were eafed, the nobility contented, feuds much abated, the revenue fettled, the fea-ports fecured, the foldiers well difciplined, and the magazines well furnifhed;—a great work accomplifhed in fo fhort a time. In f 122 ) In the pariih church is the tomb and mo* iiument belonging to the Duke of New- caftle’s family, and where the late Duke and Duchefs were both interred.—Proceed thro' pleafant lanes to the wide plain or common, called the Dicker, over which is about three miles through an agreeable road over to Horfbridge. On the left hand of the Dicker is Ched- dingley, where Judge Jeffries, of infamous memory, lived.—In the church is a curious monument of King James and his queen, and two daughters ; and this church was for¬ merly fo much frequented, that when Ha- land was inhabited by the Pelham family, and other families redded in the neighbourhood, there have been within the memory of per- fons now living, at lead fourteen coaches on a Sunday, but often now not fo many per- fons, or even one chaife. HORSE. ( 123 ) HORSE-BRIDGE, Is a very fmall place on the left, where there is a very good houfe and grounds be¬ longing to Mr. Calverley, who has large gardens and fine woods, in which are pleafant fhady walks, and from whence the village of Idellingley forms an agreeable landfcape. From Horfe-Bridge, through a pleafant road to Haylfham, a defcription of which, and road to Eaft-Bourne being already given, a repetition is needlefE As it may not be unentertaining to the reader to be made acquainted with dome ancient ufages and cuftoms [till kept up at Eaft-Bourne, they are as follows: A very fingular cuftom prevailed in this place for many years, under the name of Sops and Ale, and was produftive of much mirth and good humour; being conducted as follows : The fenior batchelor in the place was elected, by the inhabitants, fteward, and to ( 124 ) to him was delivered a damafk napkin/ a large wooden bowl, twelve wooden tren¬ chers, twelve wooden knives and forks, two wooden candleflicks, and two wooden cups for the reception of fugar; and on the Sa¬ turday fortnight the fteward attends at the church-door, with a white wand in his hand, and gives notice that fops and ale will be given that evening at fuch a place. Imme¬ diately after any lady, or refpe&able farmer or tradefman’s wife was delivered of a child, the fle\vard called at the houfe, and begged permiffion for fops and ale; which was al¬ ways granted, and conduced in the follow¬ ing order Three tables were placed in fome convenient room; one of which was covered with the above napkin, and had a china bowl and plates, with filver-handled knives and forks placed on it; and in the bowl were put bifcuits fopped with wine, and fweetened with fine fugar. The fecond table was alfo covered with a cloth, with china, or other earthen plates, and a bowl with beer fops, fweetened with fine fugar, and C 125 ) and decent knives and forks. The third table was placed without any cloth; and 011 it were put the wooden bowl, knives, forks, and trenchers, as before defcribed, with the candlefticks and fugar cups ; and in the bowl were beer fops, fweetened with the coarfeft fugar. As foon as the evening fervice was over, having had previous notice from the fteward, the company affembled, and were placed in the following order :—thofe per- fons whofe wives had brought forth twins, were placed at the upper or firft table; thofe whofe wives had brought forth a child or children, at the fecond table ; and fuch per- fons as were married, and had no children together with the old batchelors, were placed at the third table, which was ftyled the batchelors table , under which title the gentlemen who fat at it, were addrelfed for that evening; and the gentlemen at the firft table were ftyled benchers . Proper toafts were given, adapted for the occafion, and the company always broke up at eight G o’clock. (12 6 ) o'clock, generally very chearful and good humoured. On the three firft Sundays in Auguft, a public breakfaft is given at the parfonage- houfe by the tenants of the great tythes,to the farmers and their fervants, each farmer being entitled to fend two fervants for every waggon that he keeps; fo that if a farmer has five waggons to do his neceffary bufmefs, he may fend ten fervants, and fo in propor¬ tion for a lefs or greater number. The far¬ mers are entertained in the parlour with a firloin of hot roafl beef, cold ham, Suflex cheefe, ftrong ale and geneva; the men are entertained in the barn with every thing the the fame as their mailers, except the beef. It is prefumed that this cuftom had its origin from the time the tythes were firft taken in kind in this parifh, in order to keep all par¬ ties in good humour. It may not perhaps be unentertaining to infert the following poetical defcription of a journey of pleafure to the Sea-Houfes at Bourne in Suflex, July i, 1749. WHEN ( 127 ) When the bright fun (hone with vivific ray, Five youths, each with his lifter, took their way, To Bourne. There by the margin of the main, A large balcony did us all contain j A fpacious room adjoin’d to this our feat. Wherein, if we fo pleas’d, we might retreat; From thence, on every fide, we could furvey Delightful profpe£ts, beautiful and gay : Upon a riling ground the fabric ftood, Whence, o’er the lofty oaks and verdant wood. We faw the fouthern downs where Ihepherds keep Their fportive lambs, and harmlefs bleating Iheep ; The fields all waving with their golden grain. Seem’d to invite the fickle of the fwain. We Pemfey-Levels view’d, where oxen feed. By the cool ftreams which part each flow’ry mead; They at the purling brooks their thirft allay. Then frifk it o’er the plain in wanton play. Delightful fields 1 renown’d ! where fatt’ning beafts Oft feed themfelves, ’till they become our feafts. Turn but your eyes, and, lo ! the wat’ry main Appear’d in profpeft like a chryftal plain; G 2 . Its { 128 ) Its brilliant beauty, which we gaz’d upon, "Call back thofe rays it borrow’d from the fun; The fwelling floods at diltance feem’d to rife, And touch with fweet embrace the cloudiefs fkies : While foftefl: winds their cooling breezes blew. Which o’er the Ihining furface lightly flew ; The floating barks fpread out their canvas fails. And fwell’d their bofoms with the gentle gales ; Then pafs’d by thofe that did at anchor ride, And fmoothly hole along the glalfy tide ; Thefe were delightful profpe&s to our light. Yet was our company our chief delight; O ur-hearts in friendfhip feem’d to be fincere, And joyful mirth did in each mien appear; All yet unbound with matrimonial ties, Tho’ fome appear’d foft Hymen’s votaries ; The youngeft had full twenty years furvey’d. But not till thirty had the eldeft llray’d; On pleafing themes our chat went brilkly round; With various liquors was our table crown’d ; All which we did with moderation ufe. Nor did impertinence our talkconfufc. Soon at our call was brought the fplendidboard. As with the riches of fair china Itor’d ; And in the gallery our table fpread, ^Fhe Ikies, our canopy, hung o’er our heads. The ( 129 J The fabric fcreen’d us from the radiant fun. Who with his fcorching beams refplendent lhone •, A burning lamp, with fpirits well fupply’d. To keep the water in a boiling tide ; And all things elfe were plac’d with nicefl care, Fit to accommodate and grace the fair ; Who often in their pleafing talk exprefl. That of all liquors, tea they lik’d the bell. Then here a pleafant jocund chat we had, And what feem’d ftill to make our hearts more glad. Was, that each virgin had a brother here, .And chearful freedom did in all appear. In this our pleafant feat fome time we fpent, Then down to walk along the fea we went; There to behold the rifing of the flood, And curling waves, as on the brink we flood. Here we, like fportive youths, began to play. And in each other’s fleeves the beach convey ; ’Till foon the pebbles flew from fide to fide. Like mighty wars, altho’ the difference wide : For there to wound, each anxious doth appear, But here to fhun it, was our chiefefl care. Yetfhort our fporting was, for now the fun Thro’ his diurnal courfe had almoft run ; G 3 And C * 3 ° ) And now declining to his weftern feat, Gave us the fignal that we fhould retreat. Back we return’d, and took our former place, Where lovely prawns did foon our table grace ; Fair to the fight of a vermilion hue, Pregnant with fpawn, delicious, large, and new ; With thefe refrefh’d, we did our reck’ning pay, Mounted our heeds, and homewards took our way. There all the beauties of a fummer eve. Did to our pieafures fome new fweetnefs give ; The very horfes too whereon we rode, Along the plain with fprightly vigour trod ; Tofs’d up their heads, and pricking up their ears, Exprefs’d that they of pleafure took their lhares. Thus brilkly on, through pleafant meads we went, Where ev’ry breeze exhal’d a fragrant fcent; While pleafing converfe flow’d from ev’ry tongue, And with delightful themes the vallies rung; Till we (approaching near our journey’s end,) Came to the place of parting friend from friend Here Peace, to crown the pieafures of the day, Seem’d in each mein her beauties to difplay. Then C *31 ) Then with a parting fmile each bid adieu, And wav’d their hands, while either was in view. —-Pleafures like thefe, with virtuous freedom join’d. Can leave no guilty fling upon the mind ; But, if t’ intemp’rance we lofe the rein, Inflead of peace, they end in lading pain. Vice will the blifs of Heav’n’s befl gifts dedroy, But virtue bledes all that we enjoy ; Ev*n cares and troubles, in a virtuous mind, But makes its beauties more refplendent fhine; As beauties in a picture are difplay’d, With greater ludre, by a well-wrought fhade. We ne’er fhould know the fummer funs to prize, Did we not fee black winter’s clouded fkies; So might we relifh lefs thofe pleafures here. Did we not fometimes tade of furly care. Joys without care, no more can always lad. And we not lofe of them the pleafing tade ; Than always day could without night be blefs’d, Or man for ever toil, and never red. Then red my mufe, n© more of pleafures fing. Till fome new day fhall fome new pleafure bring. G 4 APPEN* r t a A C *33 ) APPENDIX. An accurate Account of a tesselatej* Pavement,Bath, and other Roman An¬ tiquities, difcoverednear East-Bourne in Sussex. rpHE meadow, in which the greatefl part of the pavement lies, is near a mile and half fouth-eaft of Bourne ; it con¬ tains about four acres, and is of a triangu¬ lar form ; the fouthern fide is againfl the fea; only a few hAiers* cottages, and a fmall pub¬ lic houfe or two being between that and the fea. On the northern lide of the meadow is a high-way, which leads from Bourne to G 5 Pevenfey ; ( *34 ) Pevenfey : the weft fide is by a fence of poft and rails feparated from a large corn field, in common belonging to the parilh. About the middle of this fence is the pavement, diftant from high-water-mark a furlong; in former times it might have been fomewhat more, becaufe from this point to the weft- ward, the fea is always gaining from the land. In the fummer 1712, when the fence was repairing, the workmen, finking a hole to fix a poft in, was hindered by fomething folid like a rock ; but calling out the earth clean, found the obftacle to be artificial.—» Mr. Thomas Willard of Bourne, then owner of the meadow, being informed of the no¬ velty, gave orders that it fliould be uncover¬ ed ; and fent alfo to Herftmonceux, for one Purceglove, an ingenious engineer, who with his inftruments bored through the pave¬ ment, and in many places of the ground about it, which he found to be full of foun¬ dations : but this his difcovery of thofe foun¬ dations was only a confirmation of what the inhabi- ( 135 ) inhabitants there have always obferved as well in plowing as in the growth of their corn and grafs; for in the common corn field, weft of the meadow, to the diftance of near half a mile, they often raife bits of foundations with their ploughs ; and in dry fummers, by the different growth of corn they can plainly perceive all that tra6l of ground to be full of foundations. The pavement was little more than a foot below the common furface of the ground ; what lay next it was a fmall fea gravel; the pofition very near due eaft and weft; its length was feventeen feet and four inches; its breadth eleven feet. Atfirft it feemed to have been bounded with a thin brick fet on edge, about an inch above the tefferae, fo exa&ly ftraight and even, as if fhot with a plane, and fo well cemented as if one en¬ tire brick; but when the cutfide of the pavement was broke up, inftead of bricks fet on edge, as was imagined, it was bounded with a border of bricks laid flat, and their ends next the tefferae turned up. G 6 The ( 136 ) The thicknefs of tliefe bricks was an inch and a quarter; the breadth not under eleven, and not more than twelve inches ; the length full fifteen inches, which, before they were turned up at their ends, could not have been lefs than feventeen. They were very firm, and not ifi the leaf!; warped or caft in burn¬ ing. When broke, their fubflance was fine and well mixed, of as uniform and clean a red colour, as a piece of fine bole; except at the ends where turned up, they were all over covered with a plafter half an inch thick, and fo hard, entire, and even, that it feemed as one ftone quite round the pave¬ ment. Next within the bricks, there was a lift or border of white te {ferae, thirteen inches broad; within that, a lift of brown tefferae > fomewhat darker than a whetftone, and lighter coloured than the touchftone, four inches broad; then a lift of the white, five inches broad ; next within that, another lift of the brown, four inches broad : all the reft of the pavement was fet with white teT* ferae* \ ( *37 ) ferae, without any ornament or figure ; which though not gay, looked very neat and clean. When it was firft viewed, none of the curious doubted but that the work was Ro¬ man ; many were of opinion that it might have been the floor of a temple or place of worfhip. When the ground about the pavement was dug, all thefe fuppofitions were quafhed, for on the north fide of the pavement was difcovered an entire bath, fixteen feet long, five feet nine inches broad, and two feet nine inches deep. It was filled with rubbifh of buildings, which feemed to have been burnt; hard mortar, adhering to pieces of Roman brick, fquared {tones, and headed flint, mingled with afhes of coals and wood. From the north-weft corner of the pave¬ ment was the paffage into the bath, three feet three inches wide, at which place the bricks that bounded the pavement were not turned up at their ends, but lay even with the tefferae. At the diftance of fifteen inches from the tefferae, there was a fall of two inches to ( * 3 § ) to the landing-place out of the bath; the landing place was alfo three feet three inches long, and two feet two inches broad; thence by two flairs was the defcent into the bath; the length of the hairs was the fame as the landing-place ; the breadth of each flair was eleven inches; the heighth of each flep a little more than ten inches • the lowefl flair was twenty inches from the farther fide of the bath. As to the pavement, it was fecured on every fide, and the. edges of it refled on a very firm and neat built wall made of Roman brick, fquared flone, and headed flint, be¬ tween five and fix feet deep below the fur- face of the pavement, and full twenty-three inches thick, which we may fuppofe to have been two feet by the Roman meafure. The bricks were not in regular courfes, as they are to be feen in thofe Roman buildings which are in view above ground, but with¬ out order difperfed about the wall. The top of the wall indeed was but fifteen inches thick, and that was covered with the bricks firft ( 139 ) firfl mentioned, which bounded the pave¬ ment ; but about fourteen inches below the top there was a fet off in the infide of the wall, eight inches broad. The foundation of the pavement was not dug up to the bottom, but opened at one corner only, that it might be difcovered how it was framed ; for when it was bored thro* they obferved, next under the tefferae, a bed of very flrong mortar, more than a foot thick, under the mortar, a bed of clay two feet thick, and under the clay a firm foundation of brick. The clay was very fine and red, and alfo clofe. The furface of the clay was neatly pitched with fmall flint and flones pointed at their lower ends, and headed at their upper ends. This pitched work was exa6ily even with the fet-off in the infide of the wall; on it was laid a bed of coarfe mortar of about nine inches thick; the fkirts of this mortar relied on the fet-off above mentioned ; it was compofed of lime* a fharp coarfe land, fmall ( MO ) fmail pebbles, and bits of brick. Upon this rudus was a finer compofition made with lime, a fine {harp fand, fome kind of afhes, and, which was the greateft part, {tamped brick and pot-fherds, in grains not larger than cabbage-feed, and the flower or fine powder feparated from it. This bed was about half a foot thick. Upon this nucleus or terrace were the tellerae fet: they were fet on end; but fo exa6t was the workman in fetting them, that he ufed two forts of cement to fix them withal ; their lower ends flood in a cement of lime only, well worked; their upper halves were cemented with a fine gray mortar, confiding of fine fand, and (as it feemed) afhes and lime. This grey cement every where filled the intervals at their heads, and was much harder than the te fie rae themfelves. The bath was alfo formed and fecured by a very compact wall of the fame breadth and depth with that on which the pavement reft- ed; the wall, which fuftained the north fide of the pavement, made the fouth fide of the bath. ( * 4 * ) feath. On the fouth fide of the bath, from the eafl end, to the ends of the flairs, there was a folid feat, twelve feet nine inches long, very near ten inches broad, and fourteen inches high. The bottom or floor of the bath was made after the fame manner as the pavement was made, excepting the tefferae, and the thick bed of clay; for under all there was brick, then a bed of the rudus or coarfe mortar, fomewhat more than a foot thick ; above that the nucleus or terrace only, half a foot thick. The fides of the bath, the feat, and the flairs, were plaflered over with this terrace about half an inch thick; all which were throughout fo hard, compafl, and fmooth, that when firfl opened, the whole feemed as if it had been hewed out of one entire rock, and polifhed. At the middle of the eafl end, at the bottom, there was a fink-hole, a little more than three inches long, and about two inches deep: about four inches above it there was another paf- fage through the wall of the fame fize; the firfl we may fuppofe to let out the water which ( 142 ) which had been ufed, the other to let in frefh. The flairs and feat were chiefly made of Roman brick, between fifteen and feven^ teen inches long, between eleven and twelve broad, and near one and a half thick. At the north fide of the bath the ground was not opened; but at the eafl end of the bath and pavement, at the fouth fide of the pavement, and at the weft end of both, there feemed to have been feveral vaults or cellars; for there were very firm twenty-three inch walls continued every way, whofe foundations were as low as that which fupported the pavement; fo that to the depth of fix feet, the ground was filled with fuch rubbifh as, was taken out of the bath. The bricks in this rubbifh, which were all broke, had feve¬ ral degrees of thicknefs, from three inches to a little more than one inch ; fome had one of their fides waved, others had rofes on them well imitated. There were alfo found two forts of channelled bricks, the one like a trough, the channel three inches broad* C *43 ) broad, and as many deep, the brick itfelf an inch and a half thick : the other fort had a cylindrical channel, fo that when two were clapped together, they formed a hollow cylinder of three inches diameter. Thefe channelled bricks being all broken, their length when whole is uncertain, as is the ufe they ferved to, whether for paflages to con¬ vey water, or whether they were placed in the walls to diftribute heat throughout the build¬ ing, as was ufual in the ancient ftru6tures at Rome. It was farther obfervable, when the ground was opened the fecond time, that olf from the fouth-weft corner of the pavement, five feet lower than the furface of the pavement, there was difcovered a large fpace paved with brick, eleven inches broad, almoft one and a half thick, and fifteen long; it was very fubftantially paved, for it had two courfes of this brick. There was half a foot of mortar under the lower courfe, and about an inch of moitar between the two courfes; thefe bricks alfo were perfectly well made, but f 144 ) but on the under fide of each were two v knobs about the fize of half a walnut, fixed : on them as may be gueffed*. to keep them fteady, till the mortar they were* fet in might dry. This paved place was fearehed fix or eight feet every way; it was all covered with a coat about two inches think, of allies and' large coals of wood : on that lay confufedly large pieces of the rudus or coarfe mortar abovementioned, and lumps of the telferae in all refpefls like thofe on the pavement* and cemented as they were. There were moreover,mingled with the allies, many large iron nails, bigger, but not quite fo long as double tens; fome hooks for doors to 7 fwing on: feveral fmall pieces of earthen w-are; fome like bits of urns ; fome of a fine yellow clay; fome red., thin, neatly wrought and adorned with flowers; and, laltly, part of a human fcull, and pieces of bones near it, which bones were not inclofed in any velfel, but lay loofe ; they were dif- coloured like thofe I have feen in urns; fo that the body they belonged to might have perilhed ( *45 ) perifhed in the flames that thefe buildings had been deftroyed by. There was no in- fcription found either on ftone or brick ; no ftatue or other figure, fave thofe on the bricks mentioned; neither were there any coins met with there. Something more than a furlong north-weft of thefe works, there was a malt-houfe erefted, and alfo a dwelling- •houfe ; in digging the foundation for thefirft, there was a coin of Pofthumus found, and in the ground dug for the laft, a piece of Conftantine's found,, THE END. I N D E X A Page iVLFRISTON - -- 105 Anderida Foreft (defcription of) ■ . 7 Antiquities (Roman) at Eaft-Bourne —— - 133 Blachinton —- - -- 34 Bourne, Eaft - - —— • • 5, 15, 123 Beachy Head ■ —.— 2o, 28 Battle --— - 73 Ditto Abbey -- — - 80 Burling Gap . ... . 22 Biftiopftone -—■—— .—- 39 Bexhill 1 - — " - — ■ 95 Bourne Place —. — ———— 16 Cheddingley .- — ■ —- 122 Cuckmere ———-— - - - 3 1 Coburn Mount (a Roman Camp) -- 117 Charles’s, the . .- - — — 21 Dean, Eaft " ■ 30 Ditto, Weft -- ■' !> | 41 Dommwns —— —- 11 Derby’s Hole — . — ————— 22 Eaft-Bourne ... — —— 5 * 1 5 > 12 3 Excet and Bridge » B ... 41 Fokingtone ■ ■ ■ —* —• 100 Firle INDEX 147 Firle --— — Glynley -—— — Gregory’s, St. Chapel —— Haftings ■ ■ —■■ ■— — Horfebridge ■ ■ — Haylfham ■ . . Huberts, and other Huts •■■■■ — ■ ■ Hurftmonceux - Laughton, belonging to the Pelhams Lewes, Road to ■ ■ - — Medes .— ■ Newhaven and Bridge -—— Pevenfey Caftle (poetical Account of) Ditto Town —- - Ditto River ——— Ditto Rape ■ ■ -— Ditto Martyrs .. - - Ratten - . —— Radmell -—- Roman Antiquities at Eaft-Bourne Seaford - - - Sea (Panegyric thereon) — Sea-Houfes at Eaft-Bourne -- Defcription of Journey to Ditto Weftham — ■ — • - . - Willingdon - .— - - Wilmington — —— Wifti - - Weald or Wild - — Wheat-Ear . Page I l6 103 - *5 93 123 103 - 104 61 1 iS 36 29 - 37 - 42, 48 49 - 46 49 - 57 97 99 J 33 3 i 10 - l 9 126 - 44 97 101, 115 6, 20 - 6 - 13 DIRECTIONS to the BINDER Map of the County — Page — 1 Beachy Head — — - 20 Newhaven Bridge* — ~ 36 * The bridge at Newhaven was originally proje&ed by Mr. Royer of Eaft-Bourne, defigned by Mr. Plaw, architect, of Tottenham-Court Road, and executed by Meffrs. Dutton., Allwork, andLoucH. Mon Bound ’jj) 8l'$ alio? v*A