THE J. PAUL GETTY MUSEUM LIBRARY From the library op- Frank Simpson TOUR THROUGH ITALY. CONTAINING FULL DIRECTIONS FOR TRAVELLING IN THAT INTERESTING COUNTRY; WITH AMPLE CATALOGUES OF EVERY THING THAT IS CURIOUS IN Architecture, Painting, Sculpture, &c. SOME OBSERVATIONS ON THE NATURAL HISTORY, AND VERY PARTICULAR DESCRIPTIONS OF THE FOUR PRINCIPAL CITIES, ROME, FLORENCE, NAPLES, and VENICE, WITH THEIR ENVIRONS. WITH A COLOURED CHART, By THOMAS MARTTN, B.D. F.R.S. PROFESSOR OF BOTANY IN THE UNIVERSITY OF CAMBRIDGE, LONDON: POINTED FOR C. AND G. KEARSLEY, NO. 46, FLEET-STREET. MDCCXCI. THE J. PAUL GETTY MUSEUM LIBRARY THE PREFACE. It will naturally be afked, why we have more travels into Italy, when we have had too many already ? The anfwer I (hall make to the queftion is this : Moil: of our travelling books have been evidently written with a view to be read by the fire fide at home, rather than to accompany a man abroad; to amufe the indolent, rather than to inftruct the active. And of thofe few whole aim it has been to inform the traveller on the fpot, their works have been either very partial and defective, or elfe too voluminous to be carried about with tolerable convenience. Every prudent traveller endeavours to bring his baggage within as narrow a compafs as poffible: he will therefore fcarcely be per- fuaded to encumber himfelf with a multitude a 2 of [ * 1 of incomplete works, each of which is to fup- ply the defcfts of the reft; or with a book in many volumes, however its reputation may be eftablifhed : but if he can meet with one volume of a portable fize, which in general feems likely to yield him the information he wants, he may perhaps be induced to give it a place in his portmanteau. The author of the work now offered to the public has endeavoured to anfwer this purpofe. He has not the vanity to flatter himfelf, that this performance will fuperfede all others ; but if the generality of travellers, with the affiftance of thofe local works, which every considerable town of Italy will furniih, find what they look for, clearly and correctly fet down, he fhall have accomplished the principal end he aimed at. The method which the author took to form his book was this : He firft extracted from his own journal whatever appeared to deferve the attention of the public ; he then looked over the moft efteemed writers of travels he next confulted * Mr. Sandys fet out for Italy in 1610. Coriate 161 1. Mr. Raymond in 1646. Mr. LafTels was five times there ; he was at Rome in 1650. Mr. Ray was in Italy in 1663. Bimop Burnet t v ] confulted fome friends, both countrymen and Italians, in whofe knowledge and judgment he mo ft confided ; and laftly, he digefted his ma- terials thus collected into as fmall a compafs as he could, and arranged them fo as to meet the eye as readily as poflible. He had not vi- fited every town in Italy; in many places his flay had not been long : but even where he had ftaid the longeft, he had not the folly to fet up his own judgment and obfervation againft thofe, whofe opportunities and abilities were fuperior to his : he has availed himfelf Burnet in i6S$ and 6. Mr, MifTon in 1687 and 8. Mr. Ad- difon from 1700 to 1703. Mr. Richardfon in 1720. Mr. Wright from 1720 to 1722. Mr. Keyfler from 1729 to 173 1. Mr. Gray with Horace Walpole, Efq. in 1739, 40, and 41. Mr. Ruffell from 1739 to 1749. M. Cochin in 1749 or 50. Mr. Northall in 1752. The Chevalier de la Condamine in 1754. John Earl of Corke and Orrery in 1754 and 55. Mr. Grofley in 1758. Abbe Richard in 1761 and 62. Dr. Smollet in 1763, 64, and 65. Mr. Sharp in 1765 and 66. M. De La Lande, the fame years. Dr. Burney left London in june 1770. Lady Miller travelled in 1770 and 71. Mr. Ferber in 177 1 and 72. William Young, Efq. (now Sir William Young, Bart.) in 1772 : only ten copies of his journal were printed at a private prefs. Mr. Sherlock in 1777. The authors of Voyage pitto- refque de Naples et de Sicile, were there the fame year. Mr. Swinburne, from 1777 to 1780. Dr. Moore, I fuppofe, about the fame time. Mrs. Piozzi, 1786. therefore [ vi ] therefore of every light which he could derive from men as well as books. This fecond edi- tion has been corrected and improved in many places j but fince alterations in collections are perpetually making, and every work embrac- ing a great variety of objects is liable to error, the author expects that the public will make all due allowances for imperfections and inac- curacies, which he has fpared no pains to avoid. A former edition having been publifhed on a fmaller fcale than this, the catalogues of pic- tures, &c. were given feparately, in an ap- pendix. Thefe are now immediately con- nected with the work itfelf $ but are placed at the bottom of the page, that they may not interrupt the text, and that fuch perfons as have little tafte for Virtu may not be embar- rafied with them. The author did not put his name to the firft edition of this tour, becaufe it is not in the line of his profeffions, either as a divine or a botanift : he has however been perfuaded to wave this objection, whether rightly or not the public rnuft judge. He has only to add, that he begs this little work may be accepted as [ vii ] as it was meant j not fo much as an entertain- ing friend to converfe with at home, as a ufe- ful companion for the pocket abroad. Wejlminfler, Jan. 13, 1 79 1. THE INTRODUCTION, CONTAINING Some Information relative to the Money, MeafureSy. Method of Travelling, &c. in Italy. MONEY. The moft current money, or that on which there is the leaft lofs, is the Sequin of Rome, Florence, or Venice. French Louis d'ors are alfo very negotiable. The money of Genoa will not be taken in any other ftate ; and in general it is advifable not to have more of the current coin of any ftate, than you are likely to difpofe of before you quit it, except the Sequins above mentioned. NICE. Doppia di Savoia : gold : 24 Piedmontefe livres. a 4 Mezzo- [ via ] Mezzodoppia : gold : i 2 livres. Scudo and mezzo- fcudo : filver : 6 and j livres. Pezza di 50 foldij or quarter of a fcudo. Pieces of *j\ fols, and 27 : copper filvered. Pieces of 1 fol 5 and f of a fol, called a ficcalon. Louis d'ors; 6 and 3 livre pieces of France* are common. The Piedrnontefe Livre is 20 Jbls, and nearly the fame value as an Englifh jhilllng. TURIN. A pound fterling is worth 20 livres, but the exchange being generally againft London, you will get only 19 livres, 10, 7, or 5 fols for a pound. Piftole of Piedmont : gold : 24 livres. Pieces of 6 livres, 3 liv. and 1 liv. 1 o fols : filver. GENOA. A pound fterling is worth 28 livres. A Sequin of Florence - 13I. 10s. A Louis d'or - - 29I. 4s. A piaftre, or Spanifti dollar, 61. 10s. The value varying according to the courfe of exchange. MILAN* [ i* 3 MILAN. 30 livres bank worth 32 livres current. Sequin of Florence or Venice worth 14I. 10s. bank, or 17I. 10s. current. Sequin of Rome, 14I. 4s. bank; and 20I. 1 os. or 21I. current. Piftole of Piedmont, 45 Milanefe livres current. PARMA. Livre worth 5 baiocchi or foldi. Paolo rather lefs than 6d. Englifh, or 12 fols French. Sequin of Florence, 20 paoli, or 44 livres of Parma. Louis d' or, 97 livres of Parma. MODENA. Livre worth 6 baiocchi or foldi. Paolo 1 o baiocchi of Rome. Roman crown, 10 paoli. Roman fequin, 19- ditto. Florence ditto, 20 ditto. BOLOGNA. Livre worth 2 paoli. Sequin of Rome worth 20^ paoli. • — — Florence — 20 paoli. ROME. C * ] ROME. Sequin, 20^ paoli. Scudo, iopaoli. Paolo, 10 baiocchi. Sequin of Florence, zo-\ paoli: but current only for 204. Sequin of Venice, 20 paoli. Onza of Naples, 24 paoli. Louis d'or, 44 or 45 paoli. Guinea, 42 or 43. In drawing upon London, the pound fterling about 42 paoli. No exchange but with Paris a?id Amjlerdam. rfhey reckon by Scudi and Baiocchi : Cajh being very fcarce at Rome , money tranfaElions aremojily carried on in bills of the mount of piety , and hofpital of S. Spirito, called Cedules. tfhe cur- rent coin is to the paper as about 1 to 1 6 : and if you prefent a bill of 100 crowns to the bank for exchange ', you will have 8 or 1 o crowns in cajh, and the rejl in other paper. NAPLES. 1 Oncia or onza, 3 ducats : 1 ducat, 10 car- lini: 1 carlino, 10 grana : 1 grano, 12 calli. An oncia is worth about 25 Roman paoli % 5 oncie make 6 fequins ; and 7 oncie make about 4 pounds fterling. A Roman [ xi ] A Roman crown is worth n\ carlini. A Sequin 25^ ca lini. A pound fterling is worth 52 carlini, or 2 feq. 2 carl. A Neapolitan ducat is worth 4$d. Englifh, and the carlino, 4-^-d. at par : but the exchange is continually varying, and makes a difference of 10 or 15 per cent. Befides the coins already mentioned, they have in gold, pieces of 6, 4, and 2 ducats. In filver, no lefs than fifteen coins, from 13 carl. 2 gr. down to 5 grana; of which thofe of 6, 4, and 3 carlini, are common ; the ducat is very fcarce; the Patacca, of 5 carlini, is alfo fcarce; the piece of 2 carlini is called Tari: and the carlino of Naples is the Tari of Sicily. In brafs they have fix coins, from 1 grano 6 calli, called the Publica, down to 3 calli, or lefs than half a farthing : the piece of 6 calli is called the 'Tomefe. Accounts are kept in due at s^ carlini \ and grana ; but merchants keep theirs only in ducats and grana. FLORENCE. Livre, 1 \ paolo. Sequin, 20 paoli. Sequin of Rome, paoli. VENICE. [ xii 3 VENICE. Sequin, 22 livres : worth about nine (hil- lings and fix-pence Englifh. Filippo, 1 1 livres. Ducat of filver, 8 livres. Ducat current, 6 livres, 4 foldi. Lirazza, 1 liv. and half, or 30 foldi. Lira, or livre, 20 foldi : nominal, like the French livre, and Englifh pound. Da quindeze, 1 5 foldi. Da dieze, 10 foldi. Traero, 5 foldi. The Soldo is about a farthing Englifh. The Sequin of Rome paries for 2 1 livres ; and that of Florence for 214. MEASURES. PIEDMONT. The mile is 800 trabucchi. The trabucco is 6 Piedmontefe feet, or 20 inches Englifh. A Piedmontefe mile therefore is 2688 yards and 10 inches Englifh ; or 4 y. 10 i. more than an Englifh mile and half. GENOA. The mile of Genoa is nearly the fame with that of Piedmont. PARMA. PARMA. When you enter the ftates of Parma, you will find that they reckon by Italian miles, which are 61 yards and i foot fhorter than an Englifh mile. BOLOGNA AND FLORENCE. The mile of Tufcany is fuppofed to be iooo geometrical paces, or 5000 French feet. M. Dutens reckons it to be 5150 French feet, or 4835 f. 3 i. 4 1. Englifh, or 148 yards, 8 inches, 8 lines fhort of an Englifh mile. ROME. The Roman mile is nearly the fame with this ; and probably with the ancient Roman mile. NAPLES. The mile is 7000 palmi; and the palmo be- ing nearly io~ i. Englifh, the Neapolitan mile is longer than the Englifh by about 249 yards *. Weights and meafures at Naples. 1 Cantaro contains 100 Rotoli. 1 Rotolo, 33^- ounces. 1 Pound, 12 ounces.. * This article is chiefly from M. Dutens. 'The [ ™ ] The Cantaro is equal to 196 Englifh pounds averdupois, and the Rotolo to 2 Englifh pounds. The pound is a trifling fra&ion above 1 1 ounces Englifh. Long meafure. 1 Canna contains 8 palmi : and 2 ~ yards Englifh ; a palmo is io~ i. Englifh *. Land meafure. The Moggia contains yoo paffi\ each pajfo containing y*r palmi. Dry meafure. Wheat is meafured by the tomolo, of which. 5-I make an Englifh quarter of 8 bufhels. Wine meafure. Wine is meafured by the barrel, containing 66 caraffi, equal 94- Englifh gallons. In the * Or more accurately, according to M, Dutens, 10 i, ,3: . The palmo of Genoa, for filk is 9 i. ,60, for cloth 9 i. ,80. At Rome, in architecture it is 8 i. ,78. in other things 9 i. ,79. ■ The braccio, at Venice is 251. ,30. for filk, and 27 inches for linen or woollen cloth. At Florence, it is 22 i. ,80. for filk, and 22 i. ,61. for cloth. At Rome it is 34 i. ,27. At Milan, for architecture 23 i. ,6c. for filk 20 i. ,70. for cloth 26 i. ,20. At Bologna 24 i. ,50. At Parma and Piacenza 26 i. ,90. The Canna, at Genoa is 87 i. ,60. At Rome, 78 inches. At Naples 82 i. ,90. The foot at Turin is 201. ,17 : at Venice 14 inches: at Bologna 15 inches.—- Thefe are EngUjh meafures, in inches and decimal parts ; and are taken from M. Dutevs. city [ xv ] city of Naples, the barrel contains only 60 caraffi. Oil meafure. 1 Salma contains 16 Stars: 1 Star 10^. ro- toli : 1 Rotolo ounces; which is 2 pounds Englifli. A Salma is about 40 Englifli gallons If you travel po/l, you mujl pay according to the rates here Jet down. PIEDMONT \ . For a four-wheeled carnage with three horfes - - . - - 6 livres. For the fame with four horfes 8 livres. For a pair of horfes - - 4 liv. 10 fols. For a faddle-horfe - - 2 livres. A coach carrying four perfons (hould have four horfes, for which you pay - - - -9 livres. And fo in proportion for 6 horfes, &c. * This article is from Mr. Swinburne. f The cambiatura is abolifhed in Piedmont. In the Venetian dates it is called the bolletino : it is a permiffion granted to tra- vellers, to take the poll at a lefs price than it is fixed at by go- vernment ; with conditions however not to make the horfes gal- lop, nor to travel after fun-fet. 5 it C xvi ] It is cuftomary to give about 30 fols to each poftillion *. The pojis of Piedmont are about five miles of the country , or /even and an half miles Engli/h. GENOA. For a pair of horfes, 9 livres of Genoa per port. For a faddle horfe, 3 livres per port. THE MILANESE. For a pair of horfes, 8 liv. 12- fols, or half a fequin. For a faddle horfe, 4 livres, each pofh There is now no cambiatura. PARMA AND PIACENZA. For a pair of horfes, 1 5 paoli per poll. For a faddle horfe, 5 ditto ditto. After the firft ftage, 5 paoli for each horfe. MODENA. For each horfe, 5 paoli. TUSCANY, AND ECCLESIASTICAL STATE. For a pair of horfes to a carriage, 8 paoli. For a faddle horfe - - 3 ditto. * The OJialUere will alfo put in his claim, and another fellow who throws water on your wheels ; but there is no necelfity to comply with their importunities* KINGDOM [ xvii ] KINGDOM OF NAPLES. For a pair of horfes to a carriage, 1 1 carlini. For a faddle horfe - - - - 5- carlini. At a poft-royal, an addition of 54. carlini. Three carlini are due to each poflillion, STATE OF VENICE* For each horfe, whether for the carriage or faddle - " 5t livres. If you have the bolletino. In cafe you do not choofe to be at the ex- pence of travelling by the poft, there are Vet- tur'mi or carriers in almoft every part of Italy, who furnim carriages and horfes, or mules, from one place to another, at a certain price. This is an ufual mode of travelling among the natives, even of good condition. It is necefiary for a flranger to make an agreement with them in writing for the price, the time they are to be on the road, the places he is to flop at, &c. The price varies according to cir- cumftances : they will abate you at leaft a third of the price they alk ; and you may fometimes meet with return carriages very cheap. They are not very eafy or elegant ; and are moftly open before. The Vetiurini will engage to find you provifions on the road, if you defire it. Thefe men pay in general b three [ xviii ] three pauls a head for a dinner, and four fof fupper, including the chamber. In cities they generally charge a ftranger fix pauls a head for each meal, and the apartment befides, accord- ing to the number of rooms. Thev itfuallv aik much more than they will take ; and fel- dom make any confeience of getting what they can, efpecially of an Englishman. Ita- lian inns are generally reprefented as deteftable : fome of them are certainly bad enough ; but there are many very good ones, efpecially in large towns, and on thofe roads which are much frequented by foreigners. As foon as you are arrived in any town, and have made the agreement for your board and lodging, fend out for a map of the country, a plan of the town, and the guide-book; there is fcarcely a town in Italy, which has not one of thefe, tolerably executed, where every thing that is to be feen in the place, good, bad, and indifferent, is defcribed mod minutely. This, with the map and plan, M. Dutens's excellent Itinerairc, and the fol- lowing little work, will probably anfwer all the necefiary (demands of the traveller. A prudent perfon, who is not ambitious of pafiing for an Englifh man of fafhion, may certainly C xix ] fcertainly live very reafonably in Italy. I have been aflured by officers and other gentlemen* that they have kept the beft company at Flo- rence, Siena-, and other capital towns, and have enjoyed every convenience of life except a carriage, at an expence of no more than a hundred pounds fterling a year, including drefs, pocket expences, &c. At Venice, which however is not the cheap- eft place in Italy to live in, a ftranger may hire a ^ood room for one or two livres * a day ; and for four livres he may dine well : 6r he may provide himfelf with a genteel apart- ment and dinner for from eight to eleven livres a day. Wood for fuel will coft him about one livre. The wages of a man fer vant is fix- teen livres a month, if he boards him: or from fixty to eighty livres, if he is at board wages. The hire of a gondola is four livres a day : but if he keeps one constantly, he pays twen- ty-two livres a month for the gondola, and feventy-fix or eighty for the gondolier. A fino-le man therefore may live at Venice-, and keep a fervant for feventy pounds a year : cr he may live, and keep his gondola, which is equivalent to a carriage in any other place, * A livre \s about five-pence Englilh. b 2 for [ XX ] for eighty pounds a year*. If he lives in a genteel ftyle, keeping his fervant and gondola, his expences will be about one hundred and twenty pounds. To thefe he muft add clothes, theatres, cofFee-houfe, &c. which are not how- ever expenfive at Venice. If he eats at home, which he will fcarcely do, unlefs he is with a family, a cook will have eleven livres a month, if me eats in the houfe ; or from forty to fifty livres, if me is at board wages. This may ferve to give a faint idea how a traveller may live in Italy, who does not pro- fefs to make a ufelefs parade, but will take the trouble of inquiring into the real value of things, and not fufFer himfelf to be impofed upon. I do not wifli, by this information, to incite my countrymen to live in Italy ; though they may pay a little dearer for it, they will not upon the whole live any where with fo much comfort as in England : my defign is only to prevent them from being grofsly impofed upon when they are there. * In this cafe, I fuppofe him to make ufe of the gondolier as a fen r ant. A man fervant, board wages included, is about eighteen pounds a year. 4 THE [ xxi ] THE ITINERARY*, From Lyon to Chambery* From Lyon to Bron S. Laurent des Mures La Verpilliere Bourgoin La Tour-du-Pin (a) Gas - Pont-Beauvoi/in (b) Echelles S. Jean-des-Coups - Chambery To Turin Polls. 12 Miles. 5 9 57 K 9t 8 6 6 9 t (a) Palis Royal ; a wretched inn. (b) Trois Couronnes. N. B. Conjiderable towns are printed in capi- tals , and fuch as the traveller may flop at^ are in italics. * Poft-books are to be met with at Bologna, Venice, &c. At Rome there is one in Italian and French, containing not only the pofts, but maps of all the routes, ihort notes of what is to be feen in the cities and towns, &c— It is entitled, La vera guida fer chi si \ 22 59 (a) After great rains this road is impaftable : it is then beft to go by Cafale to Alexandria ; though there are feveral rivers ru crofs, and the polls are ill ferved.— (b) La Kofa rolfa ; not good, — (c) I tre Re ; good. — (d) Porta di fuori ; tolerable but dear, ir^c) La Polta.— (f) Santa Marta. [ XXIV ] The gates are Jhut an hour after twenty-four o'clock, or night-falL The times are not given as any certain direc- tion, becaufe they vary according to the ft ate of the roads, the weight of the carriage, the humour of the drivers, &c. but by comparing many obfer- vations, a tolerable medium may be ftruck out that will be very ufeful to the traveller. From Genoa to Florence. To Lerici by land is 67 miles, and can be gone only on horfe-back. Hire a Felucca either to Lerici or Leghorn. From Lerici (a) to Ports. Miles. Time. Lefano - I 4 4 2 10 Lavenza I 6 6 I 40 Mafa(b) - I 5 4 I JO Pietra Santa I 7 7 [ 5° Viareggia I 6 6 I 3° Torretta - * 1 8 2 I 5° Pisa (c) I 5 6 I 10 Livorno or Leghorn (d) 2 14 2 2 3° Pifa Lucca (e) 2 14 6 2 40 Borgoborgiano Piftoia IT 12 7 2 40 if 10 7 2 45 Prato - It 9 2 I 55 Firenze or Florence - 1 IT 9 4 , 2 10 (a) LaPofta, bad. — (b) La Pofta,not bad.— (c) TreDonzelle, HdTaro.— (d) Croce d'oro,Croce di Malta.— (e) La Panthera. Gates [ xxv ] Gates Jhut at Pi/a two hours after ventiquaf* tro or night-fall, but are opened at any time. In going out of Florence or Lucca, you pay pojle royale. On leaving Florence , it is neceffary to have your baggage plumbed, to avoid being de- tained at the gate, and at Siena : write alfo to Rome for a lafcia-pajfare, to avoid being carried to the dogana there. From Genoa to Milan. Back to Novi, and from thence to Tortona (a) - VOGHERA (b) Pavia (c) Bifnago Milan (d) (a) The poft — A mile from Tortona pafs the Scrivia. Six mikf from Tortona and four from Voghera pafs the Coiron. (b) The Moor.— (c.) The poll.— (d) Albergo reale, excel- lent ; I tre Re, bad. Ports. Miles. 2 J 4 It 9 2 l 9 3 I I From Milan to Bologna. From Milan to Marignano Lodi (a) Zurlefco - Piacenza (b) (a) The 5un.« Polls. I I I I ■(b) San Marco<, Miles. IO 2 IO 9 2 The [ xxvi ] The direft road from Genoa to Bologna, is from Voghera to Broni Cajlel S. Giovanni PlACENZA, &C. 'Fiorenzola (a) - Borgo S. Donino Caftel-Guelfo - Parma (b) - S. Ilario Reggio (c) Rubiera Mode n a (d) Samoggia Bologna (e) - (a) The poft, good. The poft, and the Lily, (e) Locanda reale, and il Pellegrino, Pr>Ae l OliS. lviiies Time, 2- 4 2 I I IO 2 I 2t 2 20 2 2 IO 8 2 I IO 7 6 1 5 j 7 / 2 I 5° 6 4 53 IO I 3° 8 4 I 3° 8 2 10 T • 2 12 4 2 IO * Z IO 6 2 (b)' The poft, and the peacock, (c) (d) Albergo Ducale, a fuperb inn. From Bologn, From Bologna to S. Nicolo Imola Faenza Forh Cefena Savignano Rimini to Rome. Pofts. Miles. Time. T A 4 9 2 2 '5 1 * 4 1 1 2 IO 9 4 2 0 9 4 1 35 T i 11 6 2 15 8 2 i 30 9 6 2 0 8 1 69 0 *3 45 Cattolica [ xxvii ] Cattolica Pefaro Fano La Marotta - Sinigaglia - Cale-brugiate - Ancona Camerano - Lorptto Sambuchetto Macerata ^olentino - Valcimarra Trave Serravalle Cafe nuove « Foligno Le Vene Spoleto Strettura Nami v Otricoll Borghetto Civita Cajiellana Rignano Caftel nuovo Malboro-hetto - Prima porta - Rome 8 0 1 3 AC 45 1 * 1 1 0 2 3° I O 2 I S 7 1 40 7 4 T 1 20 1 6 I 5 1 7 4 I 20 1 9 2 3° 9 4 % ; 8 2 0 3 I O O z 1 I O T T 1 1 Q 2 1 3° 5° / 4 1 45 7 1 3° 9 4 35 9 1 40 1 9 1 45 1 7 4 1 25 1 9 2 3° Q 0 ; 55 8 2 40 0 0 6 3° S 4 1 3° 3 4 J 0 7 4 1 6 1 c 3 4 5 1 *5 S 4 4 4 5° I 6 1 25 38 3° 5 6 67 5° The [ xxviii ] The inns upon this road are generally the poft-houfes; the beft of thefe are at Macerata, Foligno, Spoleto, Narni : the locanda di Parma at Pefaro, excellent. The roads are in gene- ral good, and the horfes excellent. There are many good lodging-houfes at Rome, efpecially near Piazza di Spagna : as at Dupres, Benedetto's, Meno's, Pio's, Mar- garita's, Damon's, Mad. Steuart's, Mad. Smith via croce, &c. From Rome to Naples. From Rome to Torre Mezz$- via - Marino - Faiola Veletri - Cafe fondate - Sermoneta (Cafe nuove - Piperno - Maruti) - - c Terracina Fondi - T Itri - Mala di Gait a Garigliano Time to Time t« Pofts. Miles. Naples. Rome. I 8 2 I 20 I s 4 6 2 5° 3 4 4 6 I 10 5 2 I 10 I 10 9 6 I 4a 5 6 45 I »S 8 6 1 2 5 I 2 5 5 I 7 6 1 35 I 35 7 4 1 22 2 T 1 **■ * 1 1 6 2 30 2 7 4 1 45 I 45 4 2 I 8 5° 5° 188 4 l 7 57 18 40. Site XXIX 188 4 r 7 57 iS 40 5. Agata 9 2 1 18 1 18 bparaneli 1 10 1 2 3 1 2 3 Capua 8 6 1 12 1 8 Averfa 12 4 1 20 1 28 Naples 1 1 4 1 45 1 33 J 9 4 24. 55 2 5 35 The inns upon this road were very 3ad: the only way to lodge comfortably was to procure letters for the Ginetti palace at Veletri, and the convent of S. Erafmo, near Mola di Gaeta. But fince the new road has been made over the Pontine marfhes, there is one of the beft inns in Italy at Terracina, kept by a French* man. At Naples, very good hotels, delightfully fituated. — Albergo Reale, Crocelli, Emanu* ele, Cafa ifolata, Stefano di Rofa. v From Rome to Florence. From Rome to Storta - Baccano Monte Rofi - Ronciglione - La Montagna Viterbo Time Time Pods. Miles. from from Rome. Florence, 9 1 I 15 I 30 8 4 I 45 I 28 6 3 I 20 1 4 9 0 I 45 1 40 6 6 45 1 20 3 T 5 1 I 20 1 »5 54 1 44- 7 I I iO 3 i 7 Montefiafcone [ XXX ] Si 44 7 1 1 10 8 Montefiafcone i JO 2 5 1 10 Bolfena i 8 I 43 5° SanLorenzo nuovo i 4 7 I 20 41 Acquapendente Ponte Centino 3 4 6 i 1 3 5 I 40 Radieofani y I 8 5 2 35 1 34 Ricorli - 5 6 I 20 41 Scala - 4 4 I -35 5 Torrinieri I 9 I 5° Buonconvento I 5 5 I 2 55 Mon te rone I 7 3 I 20 »5 Siena - I 8 6 I 55 1 23 Caftiglioncello Poggwonzi IO i I 3° 10 6 4 I 18 1 2 5 Tavernelle 7 3 2 40 S. Caffiano 8 2 2 55 Florence T ~ 9 7 2 28 '5 ~3 a i 7 i 0 40 J 7 3 2 59 From Radieofani to Ponte Centino you pay only one poft. Inns. — At Viterbo, Albergo Reale, pretty good, and i tre Re or the Poft. At Siena, I tre Re, tolerable. At the reft, the Poft, bad enough, except at San Lorenzo nuovo* At Florence, the fuperb hotel, by Meggit, called Lccanda di Carlo, confifting of three palaces. Vanini's a very good hotel ; and the inns of the black eagle and S. Louis. From [ xxxi ] From Florence to Rome by Perugia From Florence to Pian della Fonte JLevane . - Arezzo Camoccia - - - Torricella Perugia - Madonna degli Angeli Foligno &c. as in the route from Bologna toRome Inns are -At Arezzo and Camoccia the poft, at Perugia, with Luigi Ercolani. This road is better than that by Siena ; the country finer ; and the inns better. It is 25 miles farther, but may be gone in lefs time. Ports. Miles. Time. 2 14 2 2 1 5 2 IO 2 ts 2 2 \ 14 2 20 2 1 3 4 2 30 2 l 3 2 I 1 1 I 50 I 9 4 I From Florence to Bologna, From Florence to Fontebuona Caffagiolo Alle Mafchere Monte Careli Cubillario Feligara Loiano Pianoro Bologna Polls, Miles* 8 2 7 4 3 4 7 5 7 9 10 9 6 3 0 As [ xxxii ] As there are no tolerable inns on this road* except at le Mafchere, and that is not a poft, you muft pay the expences of the horfes and poftillions for flopping there; and this will amount to a fequin or thereabouts for fix horfes and two poftillions. You may flop at Loiano* but the inn is very bad i or at the dogana at Pietra Mala, between Cubillario and Feligara, on the fame condition as expreffed above ; or at a convent of Benedi&ines near Loiano, at a place called Scarica Fafino. From Bologna to Venice. Prom Bologna to Foils. Miles. Time,* San Giorgio - Cento (a) %i 9 I 41 I 8 I 3° San Carlo - I 7 4 I ib Ferrara (b) li 9 I 5° Rovigo (a) - 2 18 4 20 Monfelice - 2 x 5 2 20 Padoua (c) - It 12 2 Dolo If IO I 45 Fufina * If 9 I 20 Venezia (d) 5 I '37 102 4 '9 *5 (a) Poll, (b) I tre Mauri. — You may go by water to Venice^ by embarking on the Po, five miles from Ferrara* — (c) Aquila d'oro, good — Or down the Brenta from Padoua. — * Acrofs the Lagunes from Fufina.— (d) Bons Dary near the Rial to, Petrillo at the white Lion, I tre Re, From [ xxxiii J From Venice to Verona^ Brefcia, Bergamo^ &c. From Venice to Ports. Miles. Time; Fufina r I Dolo i x z I I I J Padoua * - * 3. A A I 4.0 bJei'icra 1 o y 6 I AO VlCENZA (a) - 1 I o 6 2 TV /T 1 1 1 Montebello - I o 6 I Caldiero T A 2 T 7 I it £ Verona (b) 1 8 6 I 3° Caftel nuovo _ I a 1 1 6 I 45 Dejenzano _ J_ X i i 4 2 15 Ponte di San Marco 6 4 I 45 Brescia (c) - - I JL 9 4 I 3° Oipitaletto - 8 I 3° Paluzzuolo IO I 3° Cavernago - 6 I 5 Bergamo (d) 8 2 I 20 Of* 1 I 5 I C 2 ^ V5 (a) Cappell roflb, Scudo di Francia. (b) Due Torn, very good, (c) Torre, (d) Fenice, Albergo Reale. * // ouz'// take up about ten hours to go up the Brenta, front . Venict to Padua. From Bergamo to Milan it is four fojls^ thirty -two miles ; and will take four hours and an half. c Front £ xxxiv ] From Milan to 'Turin it is ten pojis and am half, ninety -three miles, and the time about fif- teen hours. The road lies through Novara and Vercelli; the inns at both, and alfo at Chivalco, are the three kings ; that at Ver- celli is the beft. There arc feveral rivers to. pafs, which are dangerous in a rainy feafon :> this part of Lpmbardy is very rich and fer- tile. From Verona through the Tyrol, Germany, &c. From Verona to Volarni (a) - Bery Ala (b) - Roveredo (c) Trent (d) - S. Michel (e) Nairmach - Branzol (f) - (a) Country fiat and well cultivated. Vines , mulberries, corrt^ mayz, and forghum. (b) Enter the Tyrol at Borghetto. (c) The Pofi will go no farther with two -wheel carriages, (d) Europa. Begin here to talk German. (e) Crofs the river by a covered wooden bridge. (f ) V olcanic porphyry mountains, Bolzano to Pofts. Miles. Time. M. F, H. '. I 12 7 2 25 I 9 1 2 I I I 2 30 I io 3 2 20 2 i4 7 3 if ii 4 1 Si u 7 2 45; i 7 2 I 30 [ XXXV ] ffofikatio. (a) - Teutfchen - Colman (b) - Brixen (c) Mittewald Stertzingen (d) Brenner (e) Steinach (f ) - Schonberg - Inspruck (g) Dorftenbach (h) Obermiemingen Nazareit (i) Lermes . - Reita (k) - Polls. Miles; 8 7 6 1 6 3 1 ii i 1 7 7 I 9 7 9 5 6 5 8 i I 7 2 io 7 | (a) The Sun, clean and very good. Situation charming.— \N arrow vallies by the torrent: covered bridges: black porphyry mountains, (b) Fine views, Schift mountains. (c) Elephant— -Fine ftuation; a poji and half is paid from* "Colman to Brixen. (d) Poft !— -A glacier and fiver mines. (e) A long a/cent to Brenner 3 but the road excellent. (f) Defcent to Steinach. The mountain -wholly of Scbif- (a) the Alps, and enter Suabia. (b) The roads made and kept up by toll-bars, through the Tyrel and Germany. (c) Three Moors, very good. Hence to Munich 4 J ports, 42 miles, and the time 8 hours ; the road is good. Munich is a fine large city on the Iier ; the Elector's palace and theatre are magnificent — Country fiat, fiiifandy, road good, (d) Roads and horfes good, (e) Baumrtarck, or arbre forte, very good. (f ) A curious nx*ooden bridge. (g) S. George, or the Cavalier, very good. (h) Poll, bad. Schwetzingen [ xxxvii ] Polls. Miles. Tim p. Manheim lh\ z W/~rAfm c «■ — V V \Jl illo T 12 A 1 3 * * 43 \L 4 If A 2 < C * J J TVT PMT7 ^Pi - to J. Villi IN 1 I v- 1 J T 2 2 AC" Cobkntz (d) - Bonn (e) II I C J Cologne ^ - 1-?- Berchem - - * a yuliers I IO 2 AC AlX-LA (g) - Chapelle . - *5 3 45 Spa (h) D 33 10 15 Liege (i) - 3 28 6 (a) ^ country houfe of the Eleclor Palatine, Gardens nvorth feeing. (b) Felderilioff or Cour de Manheim, good, but very dear. Ville de Frankfort and the Ram. (c) The three Crowns — Embark on the Rhine. (d) The three Crowns, bad ; the Poll. (e) Hofe van Engelland, or Cour d'Angleterre, good. (f) Saint Efprit, good — Hence to Dujpldorf only two puff* 23 miles. Gallery of piclures. (g) La Cour d'Angleterre, good. Dubich* (h) Good lodging houfes in abundance — By Forges and Chan* fontaine. (i) Aigle noire! No poll: at Spa; hire horfes at Leige— Between Horel a?;d S. Frond enter the Low-Countries* Horel r XXXviii ] Korel (a) - S. Frond - ^tirlemont (b) LOUVAIN (c) Cortemberg - Brussels (d) Aloft Quadregt - Ghent (e) * Bruges (f) - Ostend (g) • Polls. Miles. Time. - It 2 30 - • It 20 I 50 - 2 9 2 2 II 2 K 1*/ I* 3 I 2D I 26 3 2 45 It 9 - 2 I 6 1 - By the Canal 8 *5 - By the Canal 3 4o (a) A Douane of the Emperors* (b) Grand cerf. (c) Poll, Hotel de Cologne — From Louvain it is 2 fojls fe Mechlin, and two more to Antwerp ; in all 2 5 miles. Hence you znay make the tour of Holland, and embark at Hel-voctjlueys for Harwich. (d) Hotel dte la belte vue, de PImperatrice, d'Angleterrr, id* Hollande — From Bruffels to Paris by Mens, Valenciennes, Cam* i?ray, and Peronne, 34I pojls, and 1 87 miles. (e) S, Sebaftian. (f ) Ville de commerce, or pott— Boats fpacious and commodious, Carriage gees by land from Bruges, and the great boat does not come up to Oftend. (g) Hotel d'Angleterrc, Baylies r £ xxxix } t " EUROPEAN TRAVELLERS ARK VERV MATERIALLY ACCOMMODATED BY THt PLAN O F Exchange Notes and Letters of Credit, 0 F JMeffrs. Ranfom, Morland, and Hammerfley^ BANKERS, No. 57, in PAL^-MALL, LONDON, BY WHOM A Correfpondence is fettled at mod of the prin- cipal places on the Continent of Europe, in order to accommodate travellers with money, at any place, which beft fuits their conveniency ; and to fupply thofe with bills upon any parti- cular place, who defire to make remittances from hence^ A TOUR THROUGH ITALY. SECTION L At Account of the different Ways that lead into Italy* If you enter Italy by the way of France, you will probably go to Lyon. From thence you have your choice, either to travel by land through Savoy, and acrofs Mount Cenis to Turin; or paffing through Provence, to embark at Marfeilles, An- tibes, or Nice, for Genoa or Leghorn. From Switzerland you may pafs Mount S. Gothard ; from the Valais Mount S. Bernard ; and from Germany you may go through the Tyrol. Carriages can pafs only by the firft and laft of thefe routes : in eroding Mount Cenis they muft be taken in pieces ; but the whole road through the Tyrol is not merely practicable, but even excellent for a carriage. B From 2 LYON TO TURIN. From Lyon to Turin they reckon 35 polls, 64 leagues, or 193 Englifli miles : the time, 56 hours. The road pafles through the Lyonnois, Savoy, and Piedmont, by Pont-Beauvoifin and Chambery over Mount Cenis. Pont-Beauvoifin, which is 15 leagues or 9 pods from Lyon, is on the frontier ; a little river fepa- rates it into two parts, one of which belongs to France, and the other to Savoy. No fooner have you pafled the frontiers of France, than you perceive a change of country, climate and people. The mountains of Savoy af- ford a new fcene ; woods, rocks, precipices, caf- cades and torrents, form views that charm an eye fond of rude nature : others find this journey dreary and difagreeable; the road however is fafe and good, and in many places even beautiful. From Pont-Beauvoifin you go to Chambery, which, though the capital of Savoy, affords nothing worth feeing. The fituation indeed is fine, in a wide, delightful valley, where there is the greateft variety of objecls that a fine country and mountains can produce: but it is a poor dirty town; the houfes dark, the ftreets narrow, the convents and other public buildings miferable. What remains of the ducal palace is a caftle •, over the gate-way are the governor's lodgings, commanding the town and adjacent country. During the carnival they have plays and malked balls. If TO TURIN. 3 If inftead of taking the direct route you go by- Geneva, you will find it 19 pofts, or 95 miles 3 fur- longs from Lyon to that place; the time 21 or 22 hours : from Geneva to Chambery it is 7 pofts, or 464. miles; and the time 13 or 14 hours. This therefore is 72 miles out of the way, and will take 16 or 17 hours more in time. But if you have al- ready feen Paris and Lyon, there is a road from Calais to Dijon, by S. Omer, Arras, Cambray, Laon, Rheims, Chalon fur Marne, Joinville, and Langres, which is 66 pofts, or 351 Englifli miles; and from Dijon to Geneva, by Auxone, Dole, Po- ligny, and from Morey acrofs Mount Jura to Nyon, 2 1 pofts : the time of the whole route about 8 1 hours : whereas by Paris and Lyon, it will coil you 102 hours, but during four or five months Mount Jura is impracticable. From Geneva, your beft way is to hire horfes to convey you to Chambery, there being very few horfes on the road till you come into the direcl: way from France. It is 7 pofts from Geneva to Cham- bery, and the Voiturier will be at leaft 1 2 hours in going them, unlefs your carriage is light : if you think this too much for one day, you may fet out in the afternoon from Geneva, lay at Frangy, and arrive eafily at Chambery the next day, time enough to fee that place. Montmelian, which is only a poft and a half, or 9 miles from Chambery, is alfo moll delightfully B 2 fituated 4 .GENEVA TO TURIN. fituated at the head of three vallies. The ini> h not in the town, but half a, league on this fide of it,, and the afcent from it is very fteep. Having pall- ed the mountain, the road lies in a very narrow valley, which winds inceflantly. The wine made about Montmelian is much efteemed. After this you meet with nothing but wretched towns and vil- lages, and a country of terrible poverty and filth. The honeft, plain, and thrifty Savoyards have very little land to cultivate, and look extremely un- healthy. Aiguebelle lies in a bottom clofely fur- rounded by mountains : it is but a poor ftraggling village : the water is clear, light, and fparkling. After you have paffed Aiguebelle, goitres or fwelled necks become frequent. St. Jean de Maurienne was formerly the refidence of the counts of this country ; it is fituated in the middle of the higheft Alps, in a valley tolerably wide. The roads are pretty good, except through the towns, where they are ill paved, and barely wide enough for a car- riage to pafs : indeed they are in general narrow, which is no wonder, where there is fo little land to- fpare : frequently you find no more than room for this confined way between the fteep mountain and the torrent; and in fome places they are obliged to hew it out of the rock itfelf. Whenever the valley widens a little, you find. a miferable village; and fome of thefe, as if it were to fpare their uleful land for cultivation, are placed in the very bed of the torrent* SAVOY.^ 5 torrent, which occupies fo large a portion of all that is not barren rock. The road is almoft a con- tinued afcent and defcent by the fide of the Arche, a river which rifes in Mount Iferau, and joins the Ifere near Montmelian. As you advance, the mountains grow higher and more fteep, till at length the road clofes in a narrow gorge, and a very long and heavy afcent to Lannebourgb, which is at the foot of Mount Cenis. There are about 220 houfes in this village, and about 100 porters on the Syndic's lift, who are employed in their turns. The inns are abominable on this road ; it is therefore advifeable, if you can bear the fatigue, to go through without flopping. Chambery, Aiguebelle, S. Jean de Maurienne, and Lanne- bourg, are the beft places to repofe at. You mould by all means have the whole day before you to crofs Mount Cenis, that you may not be hurried in the double operation of taking your carriage in pieces, and putting it together again; and that you may have time in the evening to arrive at Suze ; in which cafe, the next day you will eafily reach Turin to dinner. The whole paflage of the mountain from Lannebourg to Novaleze may eafily be accomplifhed in four, or at mod five- hours; and has nothing terrible in it, at leaft from May to October. In a deep fnow, in a violent temped, and efpecially in a great thaw, there is certainly B 3 forac 6 TO TURIN. fome danger; at all other times there is nothing bun the inconvenience of taking the carriage in pieces, to fend it over the mountain on mules; but the people are fo adroit in this operation, and reftore it to its primitive ftate fo eafily, that the whole rather furnifhes amufement than gives pain to the traveller. If you hire a Voiturier at Lyon or Geneva, you agree with him to pay all the charges of pading the mountain *. Thefe men make their demands according to the number of travellers who are on the (pot. The price for a pair of horfes is from eight to eleven loins, befides a prefent of a louis, or half an one, at the end of the journey j but if there be no extraordinary de- mand, you may expedt a pair of horfes for eight louis. If you have no carriage of your own, and take the vetturino's chaife, he will carry you per- haps for feven louis, becaufe he has a better chance at Turin for a traveller to return with him. For this fum he defrays your charges on the road, * M. Dutens fays, that in 1761 he agreed, at the rate of twenty louis, and in 1770 of twenty-eight louis, for an Englifh chaife and four horfes, a two-wheel chaife and pair, a faddle- horfe, the expences of two gentlemen on the road from Turin to Geneva, and the whole charge of palfing the mountain.— Mr. Sharp in 1765 paid thirty-one louis for fix horfes from Geneva to Turin. On his return a voiturin offered to take him back for twenty-eight louis; but Haying fpme time he was obliged to pay thirty-fix. except TO TURIN. 7 except breakfaft, and little prefents to the fervants ; he is alfo at the whole expence of carrying you and your equipage over Mount Cenis, except a little gratuity and drink to your chairmen. Thefe fame men will furnifli horfes at four Savoy livres a day each, allowing feven days for going, and as many for returning; that is, for a chaife and pair about 5I. 1 8s.; but this is much dearer than the other. This road is almoft the only one in which it is expedient to travel by Vetturino, unlefs where it is neceflary for the ftate of a traveller's finances. If you go poft, you mnft be at the trouble and expence of crofling the mountain : there is how- ever a tariff, fixing what you are to pay at the dif- ferent feafons, for mules to ride on, or tranfportyour baggage, their conductors, porters to carry the chairs, fellows who take the carriage in pieces, &x. There is a Syndic both at Lannebourg and Nova- leze, who appoints a proper number of men to each fervice, is very ufeful and obliging, and not unwilling to accept a trifling gratuity. You have your option to pafs over on mules, or in chaifes-a-portenrs, which are rufn-bottomed elbow chairs, without legs ; two men carry them by means of two poles, and they have a foot-board. Thefe fellows are very ftrong and nimble, never miffing a (rep, but treading firm in the roughed ways with the agility of goats : they relieve each other at proper intervals. In defcending, they B 4 fliow 9 MOUNT CENIS. fliow great dexterity in the frequent windings of the mountain. From fix to ten of thefe men are afligned to each perfon, in proportion to his lize. Their pay is fifty fols of Savoy each, that is about 2s. 7-|d. The price of a mule to carry the baggage is the fame; of a mule to ride, 40 fols, or 2s. id. A mule is not obliged to carry above 3501b. fo that if the body of your carriage exceeds that weight, they may demand what they pleafe. There is alfo one fedan chair at Suze, which may ge- nerally be had, by fending notice beforehand to the other fide of the mountain : and lately they have provided other covered chairs. The afcent is not bad, and is eafily performed in an hour and half. At the top is a plain, about five miles in length ; it is a fine turf, and may be galloped over, not only with perfect fafety, but with pleafure, There is a beautiful lake on this plain, with excellent trout in it. It is often related, as a wonderful cir- cumftance, that there mould be a lake on the top of Mount Cenis ; but the truth is, that this plain is no more than a very high valley or gorge of the mountain; and though it be indeed the higheft part which travellers pafs over, yet there are lofty pikes, which rife at leaft 3000 feet above it. The lake is fupplied from the fnow that melts on thefe, and tiickies through the crevices. It gives rife to the river Dora, and therefore may be looked upon as one of the fources of the Po. You may flop at I a public MOUNT CENIS. 9 a public boufe by the hofpltal to refrefh the men ; and having traverfed the plain, you begin to de- fcend into Piedmont. The profpect on each fide of tall firs, larches, and chefnuts, of natural water-falls and roaring mountain rivers, affords a variety at once aweful and pleafing. From the plain of S. Nicolas you have a view of a beautiful cafcade-, and half way between the great crofs and Novaleze you pafs a wretched village, called La Ferriere. You will be two hours at Icaft in getting to Novaleze ; the defcent is fteep, but no where dangerous. Some adventurous people, who return from Italy by the way of Mount Cenis in winter, when the mountain is covered with fnow, Hide down on fledges* The defcent towards Lannebourg is very fteep, and it takes almoft an hour to go down it, on account of the many turnings and windings you are obliged to make; but the whole fide of the mountain being then covered with one folid fmooth cruft of fnow, at the proper place you may put yourfelf on a fiedge, with a guide on the fore part of it, who will conduct it, and change the direc- tion of it with his foot, whenever it is neceffary, and thus bring you to the bottom in ten or twelve minutes very fafc, or if the Hedge now and then overturns, they fay it is without any bad confe- quence : this is called in French, fe fake r&mafer, and the place whence you fet out, ks mmaffes* Nova- 4 leze TO TURIN. leze is a poor place, with an indifferent inn, whe>e is the firfl: cuftom-houfe for Piedmont ; and a ftranger muft take care not to have fnuff, or any- new foreign commodities. You will quit this place if yon had not time to reach Suze the evening before, by nine or ten in the morning, that you may have the day before you, and be fure to arrive at Turin before ten o'clock, after which hour the gates are not opened. The road to Suze is rough and bad, with a deep afcent and defcent, and the town is not considerable. You will pafs the formidable fortrefs of the Brunetta, along a narrow gorge of the mountain, which feems to clofe at the pafs called Pas-de-Suze, but after that, opens fenfibly wider. This is the bar- rier of Italy, and the key of Piedmont : the forti- fications are faid to be well worth feeing, but it is difficult to obtain permiffion. At Suze, in the gardens of the caflle, is a triumphal arch, creeled in the time of Auguftus. At Rivoli, which is only two leagues from Tu- rin, the King of Sardinia has a country houfe, where Victor Amadeus was confined and died it is well fituated, and commands a plain terminated by Turin. From hence to the capital is a hand- fome broad ftraight road, bordered by double rows of fine elms. There are fome wild and magnificent views be- tween Mount Cenis and Turin; and the meadows in TO TURIN. II in fome ^eafons are equal in point of verdure to any in England; they are watered by the Dora, which defcends with vaft impetuofity from the Alps. You may go from Lyon to Turin by poft in three days and an half, or four days; by Vetturina in fix or feven days, but then you mull: travel early and late. Many perfons, however, prefer this latter mode of travelling, on account of its cheap- nefs, the little trouble attending it, and the oppor- tunity it gives of viewing the country with more leifure ; but I give you notice to lay in a large ftock-of patience, for they go but two miles and three quarters an hour ; and to run the hazard of being taken to fecond rate inns. If you prefer a voyage by fea, you muft go from Lyon to Avignon, Aix, Marfeilles, and Toulon to Antibes, uhlefs you have feen Marfeilles and Tou- lon before, in which cafe you may go directly from Aix to Antibes*. flere you will hire a felucca for * This is the frontier of France towards Italy ; it is pretty flrongly fortified, and garrifoned by a battalion of foldiers. The town is fmall ; verTels lay fafely in the harbour, but there is not water enough at the entrance to admit (hips of any great burden. The adjacent country is more pleafant than that on the fide of Nice : the ground is not fo encumbered, it is laid out in agreeable enclofures, with intervals of open fields, and the mountains rife with an eafy afcent, at a much greater dis- tance from the fea than on the other fide of the bay. Here are charming 12 TO GENO^l BY 5EA. for Genoa or Leghorn, as you pleafe. This is an open boat with a padrone or mafter, and from eight to twelve rowers, who, partly by failing, and partly by rowing, will convey you to Genoa in two days, if the fea be calm, otherwife they dare not ftir ; nor indeed is a felucca built for a heavy fea. The hire of this veffel will be eight fequins, or about four guineas. You will put in at Monaco, a fmall town, containing about eight or nine hundred fouls, befides the garrifon, built on a rock which projects into the fea, and making a very romantic appear- ance. The principality confifts of three fmall towns, and an inconfiderable tract of barren rock. You pafs Ventimiglia, where the Genoefe territories begin, and feveral other places of lefs confequence, and come to S. Remo, a considerable town on the declivity of a gently rifing hill, with a harbour for fmall vefTels. The hills are covered with orange, lemon, pomegranate, and olive trees. Onegtiatsa, fmall town, with fome fortifications belonging to the King of Sardinia-, the territory abounds with olive-trees, and produces the befl: oil of the whole Jliviera. Albenga is a fmall town, the fee of a bifhop; it lies upon the fea, and the country pro- duces a great quantity of hemp. Finale is capital charming rides along the beach, which is ftnooth and firm. The corn is in ear before the end of April ; the cherries at the fame time are almoft ripe, and the figs begin to blacken. of TO GENOA BY SE A • IJ ©f a marquifate belonging to the Genoefe: the town is pretty well built, but the harbour is (hallow, open, and unfafe; the country abounds with oil and fruit, particularly with excellent apples, called pomi carlu Noli is a fmall republic of fifhermen iubject to Genoa, but tenacious of their privileges : the town is tolerably well built, defended by a caftle, and the harbour is of little confequence. Savona is a large town, with a ftrong citadel, and a harbour capable of receiving large (hips, but partly choaked up. You pafs Albifdla, Seftri di Ponente, Novi, Voltri, and many villages, villas, and magnificent palaces belonging to the Genoefe nobility, till you fkirt the fine fuburbs of St. Pietro d* Arena, and arrive at Genoa. The whole Riviera, where it will admit of it, is cultivated like a garden, and plantations extend to the very tops of the hills, interfperfed with villages, caftles, churches, and villas. When you are arrived at Genoa, you may perhaps not defire to proceed any farther by fea; but if you do, you may hire another felucca there for Leghorn. You may alfo embark at Nice inftead of Anti- bes ; or you may go from thence by land along the Corniche or Col du Tende. As foon as you leave Nice, you climb the Scarena, a very high and deep mountain. La Chiandola, which is fix pofts from Nice, is in a very pi&urefque fituation ; a league from it is the bourg of Saorgioy fo Angularly placed on 14 NICE TO GENOA. on the top of a mountain, that it feems fufpended in the air : from Chiandola to Tende you follow the bed of a torrent. Tende is the capital of a county, which gives name to this paflage over the Alps; you are three hours in mounting, and two in defcending it, unlefs the mountain is frozen, and then you may defcend by a fledge to Limoni in lefs than an hour. Between Limoni and Coni you fee Monte Vifo 40 miles, and Mount Cenis 70 miles diftant. Coni, called the maiden-fortrefs, becaufe it was never taken, is fituated near the confluence of the Stura and Getfb, which have de- ftroyed above 500 acres of land in the neighbour- hood; thefe rivers, however, are greatly conducive to the general fertility of this part of Piedmont. From Limoni to Coni, the vale is watered partly by the Geffo, whofe ftreams are admirably con- ducted, and partly by the Varmenagna, which greatly contributes to the rich crops both of corn and grafs, with which this tract abounds. At Toirino you come into the high road from Turin to Genoa. Nice is in a fmall plain, bounded on the weft by the river Var, which divides it from Provence; on the fouth by the Mediterranean fea, which comes up to the walls; on the north by the mari- time Alps, which begin from the back of this plain, with hills of gentle afcent, rifing by degrees into lofty mountains, and forming an amphitheatre, 5 ending nice; 15 ending at Montalbano, which projects into the fea, and overhangs the town to the eaft. The river Paglion, which is fupplied by the rains or melting of the fhows, wafhes the walls of the city, and falls into the fea on the weft. The country about Nice is moft delightful and pleafant, the whole plain being highly cultivated with vines, pomegranates, almonds, oranges, le- mons, citrons, and bergamots. The hills are lhaded to the top with olive trees, among which are interfperfed the caflines and white country houfes. The gardens are full of rofe-trees, carna- tions, and other flowers, blooming the whole winter. You will fee the farmers at Chriftmas gathering their olives on the hills, and in the vallies getting their oranges and lemons, and mowing and making their hay, which they do four times a year. It is nearly as hot during the winter months here, as England is in May ; and fuch is the ferenity of the air, that one fees nothing over head for months together but the moft charming blue expanfc without clouds. Nice, hardly a mile of circumference, is faid to contain 12,000 inhabitants : the ftreets are narrow; the houfes are built of flone, but the windows have in general paper in (lead of glafs. The harbour is defended by a mole, on one fide of which is a guard, and a battery of feven guns - 9 on the other a manufacture for reeling filk, a coffee-houfe, ta- vern, x6 NICE. vern, &c. for the fea-faring people. It is a free port, and generally full of fmall velfels, from Sardinia, Yvica, Italy, and Spain, loaded with fait, wine, &x. The walks are very pleafant and various-, but the rides, which are much confined, are ftony and difagreeable, except the two carriage roads, one by the fea fide as far as the Var, about five miles; and the other about two miles only, from the new gate, on the Turin road, between two lofty moun- tains, by the fide of the river Paglion. The market is tolerably well fupplied with fifh^ beef, pork, mutton, and veal; the lamb is fmall and often poor; poultry is very indifferent and dear; butter is good and rather cheap; bread very indifferent indeed*. Water is moftly drawn from deep * Butchers meat three fols a pound, and veal fomething dearer ; but then there are only twelve ounces in the pound, which being allowed for, fixteen ounces come for fomething lefs than two-pence halfpenny Englifh. Filh four fols, or three-pence for fixteen ounces. A turkey, three millings; a capon, a brace of partridges, or a hare, one milling and lix- pence. Pigeons are dear, rabbits rare, and geefe fcarcely to be feen. All winter they have green peafe, afparagus, arti- chokes, cauliflowers, beans, kidney beans, endive, cabbage, radifhes, lettuce, ccc. &c. Potatoes from the mountains,. muOirooms, and the fineil truffles in the world. Winter fruits are olives, oranges, lemons, citrons, dried figs, grapes, apples, pears, almonds, chefnuts, walnuts, filberts, medlars, pome« granates, NICE. 17 deep wells, and Is very hard; the only water fit for drinking, is that in the well of the convent of Dominican Friars in the great fquare, which being* cxpofed a fliort time to the air, becomes foft and good. There are ten convents for men, and three for women. It abounds with nobleffe ; but ex- cepting three or four families, they are fprung from bourgeois, who have faved a little money, and raifed themfelves to this rank by purchafe. There is a converfazione every evening at the Com- mandant's, and in carnival time a ball twice or thrice a week. Infects, which are in vaft abundance here, never fink into a torpid ftate, but are troublefome all the granates, azarolle, and the berries of the laurel. There are caper-bufties wild in the neighbourhood, and fome palm trees, but the dates never ripen. In May there are wood flrawberries, in the beginning of June cherries, and thefe are fucceeded by apricots and peaches. The grapes are large and lufcious. Muflc-melons are very cheap, and they have water-melons from Antibes and Sardinia. Wine is very good and cheap : the merchants brew it a good deal ; but both red and white may be had of the peafants, ge- nuine, for lefs than three-pence a quart, when taken in quantity. The wine of Tavelle in Languedoc, very near as good as bur- gundy, may be had for fix-pence a bottle. The fweet wine of S. Laurent about eight-pence or nine-pence, and pretty good Malaga for half the money. Wood for firing at eleven fols, or 6*d a quintal, confining ©f one hundred and fifty Nice pounds. C w inter. 18 KICE. winter. Gnat-nets are fixed to all the beds, and without them there would be no lleeping. Lodg- ing-houfes are exceflively dear, both in town and country % Care muft be taken to make the moft particular agreements upon every occafion. The employments of the inhabitants of this country, are, befides agriculture and gardening, the making wine, oil and cordage, the rearing of filkworms, and riming. They raife a great deal of hemp; fome wheat, rice, barley and oats, and a considerable quantity of maize. Herbage is fcarce-, they have however fome pleafant meadows in the fkirts of Nice that produce excellent clover. All vegetables have a wonderful growth, and they have a great variety of fweet and aromatic herbs wild. The air here is very dry and elaftic, ftrongly impregnated with fait. The winds are very vari- * J uft without one of the gates there are two houfes to be let, ready furnilhed, for about five 1ouis d'ors a month. As for the country houfes in the neighbourhood, they are damp in winter, and generally without chimneys ; in fummer they are hot and full of vermin. A tenement in Nice, confifting of a hall, kitchen, two parlours, three bed chambers, and two or three fervant's rooms, with a garden, will coft you about 20 1., and you muft hire it for a year. You may hire furniture for about two guineas a month ; or you may buy what is necef- fary for fixty guineas ; but then you will fell it at going away only for one. third of the money it coft. 3 able ^ • NICE. ip ' able ; and whilft the fun is fo hot that you can fcarce take any exercife out of doors without being thrown into a fweat, the wind is frequently fo keen as to produce all the mifchievous effects of pores fuddenly flopped, fuch as colds, pleuriftes, ardent fevers, rheumatifms, &x. Eaft and north -ea ft winds blow almoft conftantly during March, April, and May, and paffing over mountains covered with fnow, are very lharp and penetrating; when the fnow begins to melt, the air grows more mild and balmy; and in a few weeks the heat becomes Very difagreeable. The inhabitants are fubjeft to fevers, fcrophulas, rheumatifms, fcorbutic putrid gums, with ulcers and eruptions of various forts ; diforders fimilar to thofe of other towns on the fea coaft of Italy ; but the mod prevailing diftemper feems to be a marafmus. Upon the whole the winter is warm and plea- fant ; in March and April it is dangerous for a valetudinarian to ftir out on account of the cold winds ; the autumn is ufually very wet, and the fummer intolerably hot; at this feafon a retreat may be found on the other fide of the Var, about feven miles off, in or near the town of Graffe, pleafantly fituated on the afcent of a hill in Pro- vence. The air is certainly bad for fuch as have a fcorbutic habit, particularly in fummer, when the ftrong evaporation from the fea makes the air fo C 2 faline 3 gO faOUNT S. BERNARD* faline, that the furface of the body is covered with a kind of volatile brine % If circumftances fhould induce you to enter Italy from the Valais, you will go by Bex, S. Maurice, Martigni, and acrofs the mountain of S. Bernard. Were it not for the convent, it would be impaff- able in winter; and even with the affiftance which that affords, many perfons are loft in the fnow, as the bones and corpfes in the two chapels witnefs. As foon as a ftorm is over, the fervants of the con- vent fally forth with wine, and provifions, to the affiftance of the diftreffed, towards the Valais, as far as a building made for the refuge of travellers, called the Hofpital. The convent is fituated in the territory of the Valais, in the higheft gorge of the mountain, 8074 Englifh feet above the Mediterranean f. You have ftill two hours to mount to it, after vegetation of trees ceafes. The thermometer, even in fummer, defcends here almoft every evening nearly to the * The whole journey from Calais immediately to Nice of four perfons in a coach, or two poft-chaifes, with a fervant on horfeback, travelling poft, will coft 120I. including every ex- pence. A travelling coach, or berlin, either at Calais or Paris, will coft from thirty to forty guineas. f 1246 toifes according to M. Picket, and 1257 according to M. De Sauffure. It is therefore the moft elevated habitation of the old world, and very near the region of perpetual fnows. 3 freezing 5. BERNARD. 21 freezing point ; and below it, if the wind is north- erly. M. De Saufllire has obferved it below o, the firft of Auguft at one p. m., though the fun was continually piercing through the clouds. Here the moft flickered fituations will hardly afford a few fmall lettuces and forry cabbages, a little fpinage, and fome forrel; the whole produce of the kitchen garden for thefe poor monks, who receive ftrangers with a hofpitality that does honour to their order and to humanity. They have twenty horfes, which are employed during fummer in providing bread, wine, flour, cheefe, dried fruits, and efpecially wood, which they fetch the diftance of fiv« or fix leagues : they muft bring in forage for the milch cows, and beafts which are fatted for the kitchen : as to the horfes, they winter at Roche, in the government of Aigle, where the convent has a farm. Not far from the convent are the remains of a Roman temple, where infcriptions, medals, and fome bronze ilatues, have been found. Though this fituation is fo high, yet it is over- looked by pikes 1 500 feet higher, which therefore you will fuppofe are generally covered with fnow, where they are not too fteep for it to lie. If you wifli to pafs into Italy by Mount S. Go- thard, which to a lover of rude and pi&urefque nature, will be highly intereftirvg ; you muft go to C 3 Lucerne 22 S. GOTH ARD. Lucerne in Switzerland, and from thence crofs the lake of that name to Altorf. The hofpice at the top is inhabited by two Italian friars, from the convent of Capuchins at Milan, who receive all ftrangers that pafs through thefe inhofpitable regions, where there is no other houfe for a confiderable way. The weather is fo cold here, as well as on S. Bernard, in the middle of Auguft, that you will rejoice to find a good fire. The fnow begins to fall the latter end of September, and the lakes about this fpot are frozen three months of the year. The fources of the river Term, which runs into the Po, and of the Reufs which runs into the Rhine, are within two miles of each other. The fource of the Rhine is within a day's journey, and that of the Rhone is about three leagues off. This habitation is 6790 feet above the level of the fea. So few Englifhmen go into Italy by the other pafl'ages, that it is fcarcely necerTary to defcribe them : as to the Tyrol, I fhall fuppofe you to re- turn that way, and mall inform you of it in its proper place. SECTION [ *3 3 SECTION II. Defcription of Turin, and Journey to Genoa* Turin is the capital of Piedmont, and the refl- dence of the King of Sardinia. It is fitnated in a fine plain, watered by the Po, and at the conflu- ence of this river with the Dora. The approach to the city is magnificent, and the environs are beautiful : thick fogs from the two rivers are fre- quent in autumn and winter; fo that the air of Turin is then very thick and moift. Its popula- tion is eftimated at 80,000*. The four gates are highly ornamental; the ftreets in the new town are wide, ftraight, clean, having plenty of water run- ning through them; well built, in a good tafte, chiefly of brick ftuccoed, and generally terminat- ing in fome agreeable objedfc. No inhabitant can rebuild or repair his houfe, but on an uniform plan laid down by government for the improvement of the city. The Strada di Po, leading to the Palace, is very fpacious, and has handfome porticos on each fide ; Strada Nuova and delta Dora grojfa are alfo good ftreets. The principal fquare, called Piazza di San Carlo, is large, and decorated on two fides with porticos. * According to Keyfler the inhabitants were 54,600 in the year 1728; in 1763, they were 63,000; in 1765, 64,298. De La Lande. C 4 The 24 TURIN. The fortifications of Turin are regular, and kept in excellent repair. The citadel is a regular pen- tagon, confiding of five ftrong baftions, and is re* puted one of the ftrongeft in Europe K The glacis is planred with trees, forming three avenues •, that in the middle very wide for carriages, and one on each fide for walking; they extend to the Suze gate, between the folfe and the city. At the end next the new gate is the arfenal, which, befides the armories, ufually found in fuch places, con* tains a cabinet of minerals, a good chemical labo- ratory, a library of books in mineralogy and metal- lurgy, and furnaces for calling cannon : here alfo are mathematical, mechanical, and other mailers, for the inflrucYion of engineers, miners, &c. The garrifon of Turin is always changed at the end of two years; and then there is a general review. The Univerfity is in the Strada di Po. It confifts of fchools, wherein the twenty-four profeflbrs read lectures from the 3d of November to the 24th of June. Of the royal library, wherein are about 50,000 volumes of printed books, befides manu* fcripts-f : this is open every day, except holidays, both morning and afternoon. Of the royal mu- feum, which has a good cabinet of medals ; and a • Keyfler has a very particular account of the citadel. t A catalogue of the manufcripts was printed 1749, in two volumes folio. collection TURIN. PALACE, 25 collection of antiquities, found chiefly in Piedmont or Sardinia, and elegantly arranged : alfo of natural hiftory — as (hells and Englifh minerals, polilhed marbles and hard ftones, petrifactions, corals, zoo- phytes, and fome minerals collected by Donati in the Adriatic ; alfo fome chefts of natural curiofities, which Donati, during his travels in Egypt and Arabia, fent from Goa*. Thefe are in no fort of order. The military academy is to the eaft of the caftle. Here young gentlemen, both natives and ftrangers, may be inftructed in the exercifes at a moderate cxpence, the King defraying a part of the charge attending this inftitution. The building is a large court, with porticos on three fides; the (tables are handfome and fpacious ; and the riding- fchool is a very fine one. The King's Palace is in a fimple and noble ftyle of architecture. The apartments are handfomely fitted up and furnifhed: the ceilings painted by Daniele di Sancterre and others. They contain a great collection of pictures*]-, among which are many * It is fufpe&ed that thefe chefts were pillaged before their arrival. t PICTURES*. Gallery. A large market. Baffano. S. Sebaftian. Orazio Gentilefchi. * Cochin has given little more than a general account of this collection. Davi4 26 TURIN. PALACE." many good ones : great part of thefe were pur- chafed from Prince Eugene's cabinet, by the late David with the head of Goliath. Guido. Old man writing. Valentin. A concert. Ditto. Mofes faved by Pharaoh's daughter. Paolo Veronefe. Martyrdom of S. Andrew. Spagnoletto ! S. Margaret, large as life. Poufiin. S. Victor : faid to be by Goltzius. S. Jerom. Daniele. Dead Chrift. Ditto. The Ifraelites bringing their jewels to Aaron. Calabrefe. Four pictures. Pompeio Battoni. Cupid. Guido Reni. The Virgin in glory. Guido Cagnacci. Virgin, child, and S. John. Lorenzo Sabattini. S. Peter and S. John, two pictures by Valentin ! Bacchanals. Calabrefe. Solomon and the Queen of Sheba. Paolo Veronefe. S. Margaret. Rubens. Chrift and the woman of Samaria. Lanfranco. A Concert. Lanfranco. Rape of the Sabines. BafTano. S. Sebaftian dead, and two women pulling out an arrow. Gentilefchi. Second Gallery. A Hermit in a hollow tree. Salvator Rofa. Portrait of a Scotch nobleman, whole length. Rubens. Portrait of a man with a picture before him. Holbein. Painter contemplating the portrait of a lady. Charles I. Mytens : architecture by Steenwyck. Head of Vandyck, with the funflower : by himfelf. A Nymph TURIN. PALACE. 2J late King. The ftatues and bufts are part of the wreck of the Gonzagua colle&ion, brought from Mantua A Nymph or Venus. Carlo Cignani. Adonis. - Ditto. Jiead of Rembrandt ; by himfelf. Portrait of a man with a glafs of wine. Pourbus. Lucretia, half figure; by Guido. Entombing of Chrift. Baffano. Three children of K. Charles J. Vandyck. Prince Tommafo di Carignano, on a white horfe ; large as life, in armour. Vandyck. A man in armour with a woman, lefs than half figures. JRubens. Two boys. Carlo Cignani. S. Jerom; and S. John Baptift, half figure; both by Guido. Repofe in Egypt. Albano. Charity. - Ditto. Sir Thomas More's daughter with her father's head. Virgin and child. Vandyck. Portrait of a woman in a tuff, and another younger; both, by Pourbus. An old man, half figure, Guercino; Another. Spagnoletto. Portrait of a man. Bronzino. Two pictures of animals. An old man, half figure, almoft naked. Spagnoletto. Another, half length, in a chair. Rembrandt ! A man, half length, fitting. Pourbus. An old man and an angel, lefs than half figures. A young woman with a glafs. Holy family, half figures, from Rubens. Orpheus with animals. Virgin, child, and S. John ; dark but good. Lucretia. 28 TURIN. PALACE, Mantua on the pillage of that city. . The cele- brated Ifiac table is in the chamber of the archives; where Lucretia. Domenichino. Incantation. Tcniers. Portrait of a woman in a ruff. Another by Pourbus. In the next "Room. The four elements, four oval pictures, by Albano. Four fubjecls from the Old Teflament, by Solimene; the beft is the Queen of Sheba offering prefents to Solomon. Three pieces of peafants, by Teniers ! Small battle-piece. Wouvermans! Cattle. Potter! 1649. Woman and two children, fmall. C. de Moor. Two infides of churches. Four landfcapes, by GrefRer ; one larger ; and two others very fine. Vifitation of Elifabeth. Rembrandt. Landfcape, with the baptifm of Chrift. Salvator Rofa. Two landfcapes. GrefRer. Virgin and child in the ftyle of Rubens : perhaps by Willi- bert. A large picture with many figures. BafTano. Another Room. Pope Paul III. half length, fitting. Tiziano. Flower-piece. De Heem. Piclure-ihop. Franck, 161 8. Holy family in a landfcape. Brueghel and Rottenhamer. Venus and Adonis. Ditto. The Salutation of Elifabeth. Orazio Gentilefchi. The return of the Prodigal. Guercino: — both large. Luther and his wife. Holbein. Repaired or copies. Virgin TURIN. PALACE* 2 9 where alfo are fome antique ftatues, and an equef- trian ftatue of victor Amadeus; Pirro Ligorio's drawings Virgin and dead Chrift. Carracci. Landfcape. Greffier. Martyrdom of S. Laurence ; figures large as life. BafTano. A warm landfcape. Both. Two landfcapes, with naked women. Polembourg. Head of an old man with a white beard. Rembrandt ! Adam and Eve weeping over Abel. Vanderwerff. Country Attorney and his Clients; faid to be by Qamtin Matfys. It is like that engraved by Boy del. Infide of a church, large. Peter Nefs. Holy Family with angels. D. Calvaart. 1 579. Another Room. A dropfical woman with her phyfician; finillied with the molt exquifite Dutch nicety, by Gerard Douw. Two landfcapes, by Jan Brueghel. Landfcape, by Hellifh Brueghel. Dead Chrift. Daniele. Battle at a bridge. Wouvermans ! Refurre&ion of Lazarus. Rubens. Mofes bringing down the Red fea on the Egyptians. Jan Brueghel. Chrift. fitting on the fepulchre, and treading on death. Rubens. Eight Angle heads, ftudies from nature, by Rubens. Slight fketch of Henry IV's apotheofis. Rubens. Landfcape. Jan Brueghel. Martyrdom of a female Saint. Polembourg. Anothzr Room. Magdalene weeping, large as life. Rubens. Fruit, by Claude Mignon. Virgin gO TtJfclN. PALACE. drawings in thirty-two folio volumes; many other drawings, among which is one by Michelangelo Buonarroti j Virgin and child after Raffaelle. Saffa Ferrata. Two old heads, by Guercino. Portraits of a man and woman fitting. Vandyck. The defcent of a hero into hell— and a final! landfcape : both by Hellifh Brueghel. Two landfcapes, by Jan Brueghel. Adoration of the mepherds. Pietro da Cortona. Two pi&ures with two heads in each. Schidone. Flower piece. De Heem. A little Room. A fmall piece of horfes. Wouvermans. Landfcape with S, John preaching: very old. Two landfcapes, by Grelfier. Erafmus, by Holbein ; and an old head its companion. A medley, faid to be by Rubens. A fmall portrait of Schalcken, by himfelf. Boy, girl, and dog, at a window. Gerard Douw. Two landfcapes. Claude Lorrain : perhaps copies. Two fketches. Rubens. Rinaldo and Armida. Vandyck. Two fmall pictures. Albano, Landfcape with a pleafure-boat, and another with carnages; both by Jan Brueghel. Another Room* Old man with a glafs, half figure. Oftade, Magdalene with a lamp. Schalcken. Old man and a young woman. VanderwerfF. Three pictures of women. VanderwerfF. Six TURIN. PALACE^ 31 Buonarroti; an old pidture of the crucifixion, faid to be by Albert Durer, &c. The Six landfcapes, by Greffier. S. Frances of Rome, large as life. Guercino. Chrift receiving penitents. Rubens. The fame at Duffel- dorff, but finer: engraved by Lauwers. Moonlight winter landfcape. The falutation of Elifabeth, large. Gentilefchi. Holy family : fchool of Rubens. Long Room near the ChapeL Infide of a room, with fruit, &c. 1765. Large round landfcape, romantic. Jan Brueghel. Four landfcapes by the fame: 1. fea-fhore; 2. hunting; 3. village feaft; 4. good Samaritan. Small moonlight landfcape. Peter Nefs. Two fmall landfcapes. Jan Brueghel. Old man, and old woman ; fmall whole lengths : both by Rembrandt. Two infides of churches. Peter Nefs. Virgin and child. Francis Francia. Two fmall landfcapes. Jan Brueghel. Two pictures of horfes. Wouvermans. Small landfcape ! Jan Brueghel. Its companion, with a river and mips,. Jan BruegheU Mofes bringing back the Red fea. Jan Brueghel. Man and woman fitting ; faid to be Oflade. Savoyard with a cymbal. Teniers. Woman with two children. Ditto. Village feaft. Greffier. Small portrait of a man in a hat ! Landfcape with cattle. Berghem. Landfcape, by Greffier. Two 32 TURIN. THEATRE. The King's Theatre, or great Opera houfe, ad- joins to the royal palace, and is reckoned one of the Two landfcapes, by Jan Brueghel. Ruined temple, fmall, by the fame. Horfe-fhoeing, fmall. Wouvermans. A young woman, with a brafs pail and dead fowls. Gerard Douw ! Landfcape, with S. Hubert. Jan Brueghel. Noah entering the ark, fmall. Baffan. Landfcape with boats. Jan Brueghel! Woman counting money. Gerard Douw. Small landfcape with rnins. Greffter. Old man reading, and old woman with hands on each other; both fmall. Rembrandt. Young woman with grapes. Gerard Douw. Landfcape with a facrifice to Cupid. Jan BruegheL Young woman writing. Schalcken. Old woman in a cap. Gerard Douw. Old woman with a reel. Ditto. Old man with bottle and glafs. Ditto. Young woman. Gerard Douw. Shoeing of horfes. Wouvermans. Village feaft, with many figures. Jan Brueghel. Cows and fheep. Teniers. Landfcape, with S. John Baptili ! Holy Family, with'Jofeph at work. Albert Durer. Small Clofet, huvg ivitb looking glafs. Seventy-two miniature portraits, fifteen half length, the reft evals. Little Room. Adam and Eve, large as life. Guido. Saimacis and Hermaphroditic. Albano. Man TURIN. THEATRE^ ' 33 tine fineit In Europe. It is 96 Englifti feet wide, and 126 in length. Six rows of boxes rife above the pit; each big enough to hold eight perfons with eafe, but only three in front. The King's box is oppofite to the ftage, and occupies the width of five boxes, but the height only of the fecond and third rows : the back part is covered with looking-glafs, and there is a moveable partition, which is taken down on high feftivals : thus the room is doubled in fize, and being grandly illumi- nated, with the whole theatre, makes a very hand- fome appearance. The machinery and decorations Man and woman, fmall. Corregio. Man and woman in the water, probably Salmacis and Her- maphroditic. Mieris ! Cleopatra, large as life. Guido. Nymph and Ihepherd. VanderwerfF. Landfcape, with Diana and nymphs. Brueghel. Child afleep. Guido. Woman oh a bed. Tiziano. Room near the lajt. Boors fiddling. Teniers. Boors fmoking. Ditto. Fragment of a woman, Tiziano: head and breafl only remaining. Purfe and book. Gerard Douw. Hour glafs and ink-horn. Ditto. Battle. Giulio Romano. Landfcape with horfemen. De Momper. S. Catherine with a lamb j large as life. Guido. D are 34 TURIN. THEATRE. C0RSO, are magnificent. The king is at the chief expencc* they who have boxes paying only two or three guineas for the feafon as a kind of fee, money be- ing taken at the door only for fitting in the pit. The ferious opera begins on the fixth of January, which is the king's name-day, and continues ex- cept on Fridays, till Lent; and this interval is called the Carnival. There is alfo a little theatre, called Teatro Carlg- nano, which has five rows of boxes, and twenty- four in each row. A company of burletfa per- formers exhibit here from October to Chriftmas; and, during fummer, fome biiffi comedians prefent every night, except Friday, a farce, with a mufical interlude, which they continue till the burlettas begin. The Corfo is ufually in an avenue of elms about a mile in length, leading from porta nuova to the Po, and the king's villa of the Valentine: here all the city parade in carriages between five and feven in the evening, when they change their ground for another avenue near the citadel; and this they leave at eight for the theatre, or fome aflembly, in fummer ; but in {hort days the theatres open between five and fix. During the Carnival the Corfo is in the Po ftreet. The buildings which are mod efteemed in point of architecture are, the palace of the duke of Savoy, called Cajlello Reak, by Filippo Giuvara; 7 the tURIN. CHURCHES, &C. 25 the Carignano palace, by Guarini; the buildings of the univeruty, and the town-houfe. The mod remarkable of the churches are, i. The cathedral, dedicated to S. John Baptift; a gothic edifice, reftored in 1498, The chapel delta fantiffima fiadone, or S. Snaire, by Guarini, is much noticed, rather for its fingularity than its beauty. It is quite circular, wholly incrufted with black marble, heavy and difmal, refembling a me- lancholy maufoleum j the dome is a very lingular ftructure. A iymphony is commonly played here every morning between eleven and twelve o'clock, by the king's band, divided into three orcheflras, placed in three feparate galleries. The royal family are conftant in their attendance. On feili- vals there is other mufic, and motets are fome- times performed with voices. 2. San FilippoNeri, by Giuvara. 3. The church of the Carmelites in the great fquare, by the fame architect; in which is a ftatue of S. Therefa in ecftafy, by Le Gros. Several other churches are much decorated, but rather extravagant in their ftyle of architecture. The principal paintings in the churches are — - in that of the Jefuits : S. Paul, by Fred. Zucchero. In S. Dalmatius : the burial of Chrift, by Moli- neri. In S. Domenico: Virgin and Chrift in the clouds ; and S. S. Domenico and Rofa, by Guer- cino. In S. Filippo Neri : pictures by Solimene, Carlo Maratti and Conca. D 2 In 36 TURIN. ENVIRONS. In the Pcrtengo palace are many finall pictures^ among which that of the dying officer at confeffion has great merit. The Bezozzis have, among others, a fine pic- ture of Chrift bearing his crofs, by Lodovico Caracci. Cavalier Gelofi has the virgin, child, and St. John, a capital piece, by Andrea del Sarto. A league and half from the city is the Superga, a handfome church, richly ornamented, built on the top of a mountain, after the defigns of Giu- vara, in confequence of a vow made by Victor Amadeus in the year 1706, when Turin was be- lie ged by the French. The building was begun in 17 1 5, and finifhed in 1731. On the 8th of September in every year, the king and royal family go to this church, to commemorate the delivery of the city. The view from the dome is very extenfive. Les Vignes de la Relne is a fmall palace of the king's near Turin, on a height, from whence there is a view of the city, of the plain as far as Rivoli, and the courfe of thePo for three leagues. There are fome ceilings here by Daniele. Veneria Reale is the palace where the late king chiefly lived. In the guard-chamber are ten large hunting-pieces by Jean Miel. The chapel is by Giuvara: at one of the altars is a picture of S. Sebaftian, S. Roch, and S. Eufebius, by Sebaftian % Ricci. TURIN. ENVIRONS. 37 Rlcci. The orangerie is beautiful, about 540 feet long, and 96 wide. The {tables are fpacious and handfome. The gardens are large, laid out in the French tafte, with a fylvan theatre, a laby- rinth, See. It is full of quarters planted with brufhwood, interfered by narrow allies, forming ftars, in which the king ufed to pod himfelf, to moot the game, which was driven out of the cop- pices by the piqueurs. The parifh church alfo is by Giuvara. Moncalieri is preferred by the prefent king for his refidence. It is pleafantly fituated on the Po, and being farther removed from the Alps, is warmer than La Veneria or Stupenigi : another palace, where the king breakfafts when he hunts, which is twice a week. He lives much in the country, and does not come to refide at Turin till Chriftmas. The queen, princefTes-, and younger princes, attend the chafe of the flag, in two wheeled poft-chaifes, with poft-horfes. Valentino is a fmall palace of the king's, a little way out of town, on the banks of the Po : it has a large garden, in which the royal family walk, and it is open to flrangers. The univerfity have alfo here a fmall botanic garden, well furnifhed with alpine plants. The convent of the Camaldules is in a fine fitu- ation, on a hill five miles from the city; it was founded by Charles Emanuel in 1599. The beft P 3 picture 38 TURIN. ENVIRONS. LITERATURE. picture here is a large one, rilling the end of the refectory, by Br. Mattheus of Antwerp; the fub- ject is the laft fupper. The road to this convent is romantic. There is a literary fociety at Turin, who have publ iflied memoirs, under the title of Mifcettanea Philofophico-Mathematica. Padre Beccaria is pro- feflbr of natural philofophy. Ignazio Somis is profeflbr of phyftc, and phyfician to the king. Dr. Allione, the 'profeflbr of botany, has a good mufeum of dried plants, infects, petrifactions, and minerals. Dr. Giov. Pier Maria Dona is profeflbr extraordinary of botany, and infpector of the mu- feum of natural hiftory. Dr. Charles Louis Bel- lardi is a learned phyfician. S. Bartoli is profeflbr of eloquence. Father Gerdil is a celebrated ma- thematician. Cavalier Terini has the cuftody of the royal mufeum. M. Grafton is profeflbr of the mine academy, and has the di reft ion of the mines of Savoy. The Bezozzis and Pugnani are univer- fally known in the muftcal world. The chief trade of this city and country is in thrown filk, which is fent to England and Lyon : they manufacture, however, fome of it into excel- lent flockings, and good filk for furniture. They are famous for rofoli, millefleurs, fnufT, chamois gloves, and fome other trifles. They import broad- cloths and linen from Great Britain; fome woollens and Lyon goods from France ; linens from Swit- zerland TURIN. TRADE. 39 zerland and Silefia; alfo iron, copper, fugar, and drugs of all forts. Their chief export is cattle, fome hemp, thread and cordage : they reckon that upwards of ninety thoufand bullocks are an- nually fent out of Piedmont. Several manufac- tories are carried on for the king's account, as to- bacco, bottles, lead, mot, &c. All the fait ufed here comes from Sardinia: the king difpofes of the produce of the fait fprings in Savoy to the Swifs. A great deal of wine is made in Piedmont, but it is not all good: the principal attention of government has been beftowed on the cultivation of mulberry trees. Rice alfo is a great object of culture in fome provinces. They abound in good fruit, particularly chefnuts ; and are remarkable for fine truffles. Piedmont is 150 miles in extent from north to fouth, but much lefs from eaft to weft. It is flat, and well watered by rivers and brooks. They have the good fenfe to make the bed ufe of thefe for the improvement of their meadows. From the Alps to the Venetian lagunes there is very little uncultivated land. A ridge of low hills, called la Collina, beginning not far from Turin, and con- tinuing along the banks of the Po, for forty or fifty miles, is covered with houfes and vineyards, and enjoys delightful and extenfive profpects. The Val d'Aofta is interefting to a naturalift, for Its copious quartz veins with plenty of native D 4 gold? 40 PIEDMONT. gold: fine-grained lead ore, containing filver, &c.s red antimony ; green lead ore, 8cc. This is alfo the country of the Steinbock. The PiecLnontefe language has a great mixture of French; arid the nobility, who are numerous, affect French tafhions and manners. They are fond of outward fhow, but not being in general rich, are obliged to be economifts. The people are faid to be addicted to play, and have the re- putation of being lharp and crafty. They make very good foldiers ; and. the peafants and artifans are induftrious, and not unfkilful. The inhabi- tants are fuppofed to exceed two millions; and the king's revenues are eftimated at little more than a million fterling : with this his houmold is well fupported and paid, his troops well cloathed, and always complete. By fetting out early from Turin, you may get to Alexandria the firft day, and arrive at Genoa the fecond, before the gates are fhut. The road to Afti is bad, and the country uninterefting. AJii is built of brick ftuccoed ; the ftreets are narrow, and the people poor, without trade or induftry; there are fome large palaces that have a deferted appearance, and feyeral churches and religious houfes. The fortifications and caftle are in ruins ; bur there is a garrifon and commandant. From Afti the road is fandy all the way to AlcC fandria, and in fome places very indifferent. The products TURIN TO GENOA.- 4* products are corn, mulberry-trees and vines, Alexandria has a ftrong citadel, and a garrifon confiding of five regiments of infantry, and a de- tachment of cavalry. There is an opera here dur- ing the two fairs, in April and October; but die place is neither large nor remarkable. The prin- cipal building is the town-houfe in the great fquare, by the cathedral, a gothic edifice, which contains nothing to detain a ft ranger. Immediately after quitting the town, you crols the river Tanaro in a boat, which is fo contrived as to carry paflengers over, without getting out of their carriages. The foil to Novi is gravel, and the country level; the road pretty good, but nar- row: there are vines all the way in rows, with corn between. Novi is the firft town in the Genoefe territories, and contains about 6000 inhabitants : the republic keeps a considerable garrifon here, and a governor. Between AlefTandria and Novi is the abbey del Bofco, belonging to the Domini- cans. In the prior's lodgings is a curious picture of the life of Chrift, by Albert Durer. The church iias a great deal of fine fculpture in marble, by Michelangelo, &c*. From Novi to Ottaggio, or Voltaggio, the road is uneven, but chiefly defcending: the products are vines, mulberries, chefnuts, and a little corn. * Keyfler 363. The 42 TURIN TO GENOA, The white mountains have a barren appearance, and are bare of trees. They coniift of a fine har- td marl, mixed with glimmer and fmall blunt- pieces of gabbro. The fortrefs of Gavi 9 between Ottaggio and Campo-Marone, is remarkably fituated on the top of an ifolated rock, in the middle of a plain. There is a fmall garrifon here, and a commandant. The paflage of the Bocchetta over the Apennines is agreeably varied with pretty hills and vallies. The mountains confift of black undulated Hate, green gabbro or ferpentine-flone, polzevera or gabbro with calcareous veins, argillaceous Hate, and gray limeftone i they are covered in many places with fine lofty chefnut trees. The whole road from Novi is paved, and very good : the afcent and de- scent are both extremely fteep, but not dangerous. From the top of the Bocchetta there is a fine view of Genoa, and of the valley, through which the torrent of the Polzevera runs. Travellers were obliged to crofs it above forty times between Cam- po Marone and Genoa, and were flopped when- ever it rained two days fucceffively; but now there is a fine, wide, folid road, made along the eaftern bank of the torrent, at the fole expence of the Cambiafo family. The country is fine, and full of country houfes, as you approach towards Ge- noa and there is almoft one continued ftreet, long before you enter the city by the fuburb of St. TURIN TO GENOA. 43 St. Pietra d' Arena, which is magnificently built, but narrow. SECTION III. Defcriptlon of Genoa. Genoa is built on the fide of a mountain, in a femicircle round the harbour. For magnificent buildings, and beauty of fituation, it may vie with any city; but it has no large fquares, and the itreets are fo narrow, as not to admit of viewing its many grand palaces to any advantage: feveral of them are only fix feet wide; even the two beft, flrade Balbi and Nuova * are very narrow : they are however all admirably well paved and clean. Two palaces of the Balbi family, the Jefuit's col- lege, and palazzo Durazzo, 140 paces in front, are the great ornaments of ftrada Balbi; as the Doria palace is of ftrada Nuova. Piazza Doria, at one end of this ftreet, is not fo remarkable for its fize, as for the beauty of its buildings. The fquare of the Annonciata is the largeft in Genoa. The city is about fix miles in circuit, and is furrounded by a double wall ; one encompaffing it immediately; the other taking in all the rifing grounds that command it. There is a moft agree- * The latter is twelve paces broad. able 44 GENOA J HARBOUR. PORTO FRANCO. able walk round the ramparts, from the convent of S. Antonio to the fanale or light-houfe. A good bird's-eye view of the city may be taken from the top of the Carignano church ; but it is feen to moft advantage, by traveling the harbour in a boat, or a quarter of a league out at fea. The opening of the harbour between the two inoles is about 750 yards; veffels of 80 guns can ride in it, before the new mole ; a light-houfe is built at the point of that and the old mole ; and they are both provided with brafs cannon. When the wind blows from S. or S, W., a great fea rolls in, and is troublefome to the fliipping. There is a fmaller harbour for merchant velfels to unload in; and by that is the Darfena, or wet dock^ for the gallies of the republic. At the bottom of the harbour to the eaftward is the Porto Franco, containing the warehoufes of the merchants, admirably difpofed in a feparate enclo- fure, opened only at certain times*. All mer- chandize muft be lodged here, and pays no cuftom at entrance : whatever is fold for the confumption of the city pays eight or ten per cent, upon the value j but all that is exported pays only a flight duty. They do not fuffer ecclefiaftics, officers, * From the 15th of September to the end of March, from eight in the morning till two in the afternoon ; and during the reft of the year, from eight to one, and from four to fix ; dur- ing June and July it continues open till feven. women, GENOA. CHURCHES. 45 women, or livery fervants, to enter without parti- cular permiflion. The Cathedral, dedicated to S. Laurence, is a gothic building, very dark. It is incrufted both within and without, and alfo paved with black and white marble. There is a picture in it of the cru- cifixion, by Baroccio ; fome other paintings of no great account ; and alfo fome fculpture by Gugii- elmo della Porta. In the treafury is a curious hexagon dim, pretended to be of emerald, four- teen inches and an half in diameter; it was part of the rich booty found in Cefarea, when that city was taken by the Crufaders; at the diftribution of the treafure among the allied Princes, the Genoefe were contented with this fingle piece for their fhare *. It is kept under feveral keys, and cannot be feen without a decree of the fen ate. S. Ambrogio joins to the palace of the Doge, and it is in this church that he goes to hear mafs. Here are three of the beft pictures in Genoa — the circumcifion, by Rubens : S. Ignatius exorcifing a demoniac, and railing children to life, by the fame painter : and the aflumption of the virgin, by Guido. The church of the Annonciata, built at the fole cxpence of the Lomellino family, is one of the * M. de la Condamine has entered deeply into the contro- verfy concerning the material of this famous dilh. molt 46 GENOA. CHURCHES; moft rich in marbles, gilding, and paintings; among which that of the laft fupper, by G. C. Procaccino, is the moft curious; it is over the door, and is much blackened. The church of S. Ciro, which was the firft cathe- dral, and now belongs to the Theatins, is very richly adorned and incrufted within. At the high altar are angels and boys in gilt bronze, by Puget. The pi&ures are, the nativity, by Cambiafo. The annunciation, by Gentilefchi. S. Andrea Avellino, by Sarzana. The adoration of the (hepherds, by Pomerancio. The beheading of S. John Baptift, by Carlo Bonnone. & Domenk'o, a church belonging to the convent of Jacobins — Beheading of S. John, by Lorenzo Bertoloto, a Genoefe painter. Aflumption, by Cappucino ; who alfo painted the ceiling of the fanctuary in frefco. Circumcilion, by G. C. Pro- caccino. Virgin prefenting Jefus to Simeon, by Borzone, a Genoefe painter. S. Peter martyr, our lady of Loretto, and S. Jacinto before the virgin, by Domenico Fiafella, commonly called Sarzana. S. Francefco d'Affizi, by Piola. S. Filippo Neri is alfo handfomely ornamented. The ceiling is by Francefchini. S. Francis de Salles, by Parodi. S. Catherine and S. Francis d'Affizi : both by Piola. S. Filippo Neri, marble group, by Dom. Guidi. The oratory adjoining to this church has a ftatue of GENOA. CHURCHES, 47 of the virgin with angels, by Puget. Concerti fpi- tltuall are performed on the evenings of feftivals, from All Saints to Rafter, at the expence of the fathers. S. Francefco di Caftelktto, a convent of the Corde- liers. The church large and gothic. Virgin and faints, Perino del Vaga : much hurt. S. Jerom, Bern. Caftello. S. Catherine, Andrea Semino. Adoration of the Ihepherds, by the fame. Death of the virgin, Sarzana. S. Francis, Cam. Procac- cino. Conception, Tintoretto. Nativity, Cen- cini. Statues and bas-reliefs in bronze, Giovanni Bologna. Marble tomb of Andrea Spinola, with the virgin, by Cambiafo. S. Luca, Painted by Piola the elder. At the high altar, the Conception, by Filippo Parodi. In a chapel on the right, a picture by Benedetto di Caftiglione. S. Maddalena. All painted in frefco by Sebaf- tiano Galeotti. The chapel of the virgin, by Domenico Parodi. Aflumption, in the ftyle of Vandyck. The Magdalene, by Paggi. The altar of S. Nicolas, by Gio. Battifta Parodi. S. Maria di Carignano is built in a ftyle of archi- tecture very different from all the other churches, and in form of a Greek erofs, by Alexio Galeazzi of Perugia, who planned the ftrada nuova, and built moft of the palaces. The paintings are — the vir- gin, S. Francis and S, Charles, by G, C. Procac- cino ; 48 6EN0A. C#URCHES. ? cino; S. Francis, by Guercino. S. Peter and So John curing the paralytic, by Piola. Martyrdom of S. Bam, by Carlo Maratti. S. Mary the Egyp- tian, receiving the communion from S. Maximin^ by Vanini of Siena. A Pieta, by Cambiafo. Here are alfo ftatues of S. Aleflandro Pauli and S. Sebaftian, by Puget. In coming out of this church you pafs over a lofty bridge, above the tops of the houfes, made to join the two hills of Carignano and Sarzano: it confifts of three large arches, and one fmall one; is 90 feet high, 45 wide, and 160 or 170 paces long. S. Stefano is remarkable for the (toning of S* Stephen, a painting at the high altar, the lower part of which is by Raffaelle, and the upper by Giulio Romano* The Albergo is a large building, ferving at the fame time for the reception of the poor who are unable to work, and as a houfe of correction, la- the chapel is a fine alto-relievo of the virgin con- templating Chrift dead, commonly called a Pieta, by Michelangelo \ and the affumption of the virgin, by Puget. The great Hofpital is on a very extenfive plan, and receives the fick of all nations and religions. The Confervatory for educating and portioning three hundred poor girls, is an immenfe building, and was founded entirely by a nobleman of the Fiefchi family, who died without children. GENOA. PALACES. 49 The palace of the Doge is very large, without any exterior decoration. On each fide of the door is a ftatue of Giovanni Andrea, and Andrea Doria, larger than life. The wails of the great council- chamber were painted in frefco by Francefchini, with the principal occurrences in the hiftory of Genoa. In the little council-chamber Solimene painted three large pieces. A fire happened about the year 1768, and destroyed the council chamber, with the paintings by Francefchini. Thofe by Solimene were faved, but much damaged. The arfenal, which is in this palace, is faid to contain arms for 25,000 or 30,000 men. In the little arfenal there is the prow of a Roman galley, and a cannon of a very ancient form *. The palaces of the nobility at Genoa are univer- fally celebrated for their magnificence. The prin- cipal of them— 1. That of Francefco Balbi and Giacomo Balbi ; in each of which is a numerous collection of valuable pictures. 2. The Brignole palace, called Palazzo Roflb; remarkable for the diftribution of the apartments, the richnefs of the furniture, and the number and excellence of the pictures. 3. Palazzo Doria, iituated at the gate of S. Thomas, is the larger! of all the palaces. It was begun by the celebrated Andrea Doria. The * Commonly faid to be of leather; others fay of wood lined with brafs. I negle&ed to examine it. E principal GENOA. PALACES. principal front is to the harbour. In the gardens is a ftatue of Andrea Dona, in the chara&er of Neptune. 4. The palace of Marcellino Durazzo has an immenfe front; and fuperb apartments well furnilhed. You enter a hall 40 feet cube; on one fide is a handfome room 24 feet by 20, and three rooms beyond it, 22 by 15; on the other fide a room 24 by 20, and a gallery 80 by 15 — towards one end a drefling room, and towards the other five fmall rooms that go out on a terrace, with a lovely view of the harbour. The furniture is rich damafk or velvet, with gilt chairs; the ceilings gilt fcnd painted in ornaments, but crowded. The collection of pictures, both of Italian and Flemiih matters, is very fine. One of the moft efteemed is a large piece by Paolo Veronefe, of the Magda- lene at the feet of Chrift in the pharifee's houfe. There is alfo an antique butt of Vitellius. 5. The palace of Marcello, late Giacomo Filippo Duraz- zo, has many excellent paintings, particularly of the Bolognefe fchool, and of Vandyck. The Car- rega, Palavicini, and feveral other palaces, are full of good pictures *. The moft efteemed with refped PICTURES*. Francesco Balbi. HalL A large pi&ure, with a portrait, by Vandyck, Jofeph's dream, by Cappuccino. The ceiling, by Valerio Caftelli. Firfl GENOA PALACES. 5l refpeft to architecture, where the ftyle of architec- ture, it muft be confefled, is not good, are that of the Firjl Salon. Adoration of the Magi, a large picture, by Tiziano. A market, by Giacomo Baflano. Andromeda fattened to the rock : Guercino. Thamar's pledge, and Sufanna with the Elders, companions, by Lucio Maflari. A Bacchanal, over the ctoor, by Sarzana, who painted the frieze. The ceiling, by Gregorio di Ferrara. Second Salon* Portrait of a lady, by Vandyck. S. Francefco d'Aflizi, large, by Annibale Carracci. Two fmall pictures, by Schiavone. S. Jerom, with an Angel, by Agoftino Carracci. Danae, fmall, by Paris Bordone. Another, by Schiavone. Virgin and child, S. Catharine, and two monks; by Tiziano. Chrift praying in the garden, by Michael Angelo. The Nativity, by Lucas van Leyden, commonly known in Italy by the name of Luca d'Olanda. The virgin, child, and S. Jofeph, by the fame. The flagellation of Chrift, over a door, by Tiziano. Venus with two cupids, by Annibale Carracci. The coming out of the ark, and the facrifice of Abraham.; both by Giacomo Bafiano. Dives and Lazarus, by the fame. Head of a, girl, by Annibale Carracci. Two fmall ovals, over doors, by Giulio Cefare Procaccino. The ceiling is painted by Valerio Callelli. E 2 Third £2 GENOA. PALACES. the duke of TuiTi; the two Brignole palaces, call- ed Palazzo Rofib and Bianco; that of Palavxcino di tfbird Salon. Converfion of S, Paul, a large picture, by M. A. da Caravaggia. S. Jofeph with the infant Jefus, by Cappuccino. Ecce Homo, by Vandyck. Virgin, infant jefus, and St. Jofeph, by Tintoretto. Virgin with the infant Jefus, by Vandyck, furrounded with a border of flowers, by Gio. Kofa. St. John in the wildernefs, large, by Guido. St. Mary Magdalene, by Agoftino Carracci. A fmall oval, by Cav. del Cairo. Virgin and infant Jefus, by Vandyck. . St. Jerom in the defert, over a door, by Tiziano. St.f Jerom, with an Angel, by Guido. A virgin martyr, by Agoft. Carracci. Virgin and infant Jefus, in a fmall oval, by Camillo Procaccino, St. Catharine, by Ann. Carracci. A picture over a door, by Francefcliini. Five other pieces, by old mailers. The ceiling, by Gregorio di Ferrara. Fourth Sa-ott. Virgin, infant Jefus, Saints, Angels, and three women, a large picture, by Rubens. Two markets, by Cafriglione. A portrait, full length, by Vandyck. " Two portraits, Flemifh. A fmall oval, by Palma. A picture over a door, by Guercino. St. Jerom reading, large, by Guido. A fmall portrait, by Tintoretto. Virgin, infant Jefus, and S. Jofeph, by Perino del Vaga. St. GENOA. PALACES. 53 di Caftellazzo, and of the duke S. Pietro Spinola; die two Balbi palaces ; the two Durazzos ; and * that St. Jerom in the defert, by Tiziano. The Samaritan woman, by Guercino. The ceiling, by Piola. Gallery, Vandyck' s wife and child, by Vandyck. S. Francefco d'Affizi, by Ann. Carracci. Nativity, fmall, by Greghetto, commonly called CafHglione. Portrait of a warrior, by Vandyck. Virgin, infant Jems, and St. Catharine, by Corregio. Virgin with the infant Jefus, fmall, by Vandyck. An oval, over a door, by Holbein. An oval, by Tintoretto. Cleopatra, by Guido. Portrait of Vandyck, by himfelf. The feaft in the Pharifee's houfe, by the fon of Paolo Veronefe. Portrait of a general, by Vandyck. Infant Jefus and St. John Baptift, by Rubens. Portrait of a Doge of Venice, by Paolo Veronefe. Lucretia, by Guido. A philofopher, by Tiziano. The nativity, by Sinibaldo Scorza. The nativity, by Tintoretto. Temptation of St. Antony, by Brughel. A dwarf over a door, by Schiavo del Tiziano. A mathematician, with a map, by Spagnoletto. The Magdalene carried to Heaven by Angels, Guido. The marriage of St. Catharine, by Parmegiano. A philofopher, by Spagnoletto. The Virgin, infant Jefus, Jofeph, &c. by Benvenuto Garofalo, St. George, by Corregio. The Ceiling, by Gregorio di Ferrara, E 3 Giacomo 54 GENOA. PALACES.' that of Andrea Doria. Thofe which are beft fitted up and furniihed are — Marcellino Durazzo's, Francefco Giacomo Balbi. HalL Diogenes looking for a man, and an allegorical f abject, two large pictures, by Luca Giordano. Portrait of the Doges, Francefco Maria, and Conflantino Balbi* Firfi Salon on the right. Portrait of a man, by Tintoretto. Portrait of a woman, by Vandyck. Seven pictures on copper, by Brughel. Portrait of an old man, oval, by Tintoretto. The fame, by Spagnoletto. Three children, by Vandyck, A man in armour, and two other portraits, by the fame* A woman, half length, in an oval, by Parmegiano. A Magdalene, fmall, by Andrea del Sarto. Lucretia and Tarquin, on board, by Paolo Veronefe. Syrinx purfued by Pan, Caftiglione. A fenator and his wife, fitting, fize of life, two fine portraits^ by Vandyck. Portrait of a lady, by Gentilefchi. Portrait of a woman with three children, by Perino del Vaga* Head of a man, by Holbein. Two women, ovals, by Tintoretto. Second Salon. Portrait of an old man, by Carracci. Holy Family, by Bartolommeo di Viterbo. Two children on board, by Lucas van Ley den. Dives and Lazarus, by Giacomo BafTano, A cardinal GENOA. PALACES. '55 Francefco Maria della Rovere's, Palazzo Roffo, Carrega's, and that of Bartolomeo Saluzzo, The A cardinal with other figures, fuppofed to be Luther and Calvin, fize of life, by Sebaftiano del Piombo, Poultry, by Sneiders. Two large landfcapes, by Rubens ; one a flat country, in th$ other a rainbow. A landfcape with animals, by Caftiglione. A martyr, in the hands of the executioner, by Cappuccino. St. Mary Magdalene, and two heads, by G. C. Procaccino. Head of a man, on board, by Fiamingo. The Refurre&ion, by Tintoretto, St. Peter and Sapphira, by Guercino. A triumphal car drawn by elephants ; finimed fketch, by Rubens. Two children, on board, by Lucas van Leyden. The Virgin, by the fame. St. Sebaftian, by Vandyck, fize of life. Portrait of a nun, by Cappuccino. A man making feals, by Luca Cambiafo. Magdalene with a death's head, Guido. Two little finimed pictures, by Brughel, reprefenting Adam and Eve. Third Salon, Rape of the Sabines; Perfeus, with Medufa's head; Jefabel devoured by dogs ; three large pictures by Luca Giordano. Venus and Cupid, by Paris Bordone. A beggar, by Spagnoletto. A warrior, by Tintoretto. Fourth Salon, Architecture, by Viviani. Animals, over a door, by Caftiglione. E 4 Chapel. j;6 GENOA. VILLAS. The Genoefe have fumptnous country houfes or villas : the principal of them are thofe of Marcel- lone Chapel. St. John Baptift, by Guercino. Holy Family, by Rubens. Roman chanty, by Piola. A man, on board, by Holbein. Virgin, Jefus, and St. John Baptift, by Piola, Virgin and St. Therefa, by Piola. Gallery. A nymph with a dog, by L'Argilliere. A woman with a black, by Trois. Four portraits of women, ovals, French. Lafi Room. Portrait of a fenator, by De Bors. Portrait of a man, by Molinaretto. Virgin feeding Jefus, by Paggi. Wifdom, by Piola. Brig n ole, called Palazzo Roflb. God, with an angel holding the world, by Guercino. Four pictures of apoftles, half figures, fize of life, by Cappuc- cino. Judith giving the head of Holofernes to a black flave, fize of life, by Paolo Veronefe. A female faint on her knees. An old man holding a paper. Spagnoletto, The tribute money, by Vandyck. Holy family, by G. C. Procaccino. Virgin, Jefus, and St. John. Magdalene, by Tiziano. Several heads, by the Tame, The GENOA. VILLAS. $J lone Durazzo at Cornigliano, of the Imperiali, Spinola, Doria, Grimaldi, and Palavicini families, at The nativity, fmall, by Paolo Veronefe. Noli me tangere, by Guercino. Holy family, over a door, in the ftyje of Andrea del Sarto. Adoration of the Magi, by Tiziano. The incredulity of St Thomas. St. Francis, by Cappuccino. Figures, by Caitiglione. The virgin on a throne, St. John the evangelift, and another apoftle, by Guercino. A picture, by BalTano. Two holy families. Clorinda delivering the Chriftians, figures fize of life, by Cala- brefe. Its companion. Refurrection of Lazarus. Buyers ?nd feller.' driven out of the temple; by Guercino. A female martyr, and two other figures ; by the fame. Head of St. Paul. St. Sebaftian, a woman writing, Chrift and a woman, half figures, all by Guido. Chrift holding his crofs ; a man on horfeback. A woman Handing, and fome other heads, all by Vandyck. A man playing on a flute, by Cappuccino. Rape of the Sabines ; and Apollo on his car, preceded by the hours; both by Rubens. An allegorical piece, by the fame, figures to the knee, and fize of life. The annunciation, fmall, by Paolo Veronefe. ' The virgin, and a fenator, fize of life. A woman fitting, holding a dart. A charity. Virgin, St. John, &c. Two portraits . by Rigaud.. Marcellino 58 GENOA. VILLAS,' at S. Pietra cTArena; of Brignole, Saluzzo, an<3 Giuftiniani, at Albaro; of Maria Spinola, at Sef* tri, Marcellino Durazzo. Hall. The Grand Signior giving audience to Agoftino Durazzo, am- baflador at Conftantinople, by Bertolotto. And an entertain^ ment alfo given him by the Grand Signior; by Piola: twq very large pictures. Portrait of the fame ambaflador on horfeback, and feveral other portraits. Ant i- chamber* Four pieces, by Carlone. Chiaro-ofcuros, by Ferrari. RcQ?n on the Right. Seneca dying. — Clorinda delivering Glinda and Sophronia,— • Phineas thrown down by Medufa's head. — Three large pi<;-» tures, by Luca Giordano. Adam and Eve driven out of Paradife, by Giulio Cefare Pro^ caccino. Virgin, infant Jefus, and S. Catharine, by Vandyck, Portrait in a Spanifh drefs, full length, by Vandyck, A prelate, by Cappuccino. Virgin, with the infant Jefus, by the fame. Bacchus and Ariadne, by Francefchini. Firft Room going to the Gallery* The Magdalene at the feet of our Saviour, a famous picture, by Paolo Veronefe. There is alfo a fine copy of it in this palace. Gallery. Ceiling, by Parodi. Statue of a Ihepherd, by Parodies father. Rape GENOA. VILLAS, g(j cri, 8cc. They have gardens, with abundance of orange and lemon trees, hedges of myrtle, foun- tains, Kape of Profcpine, by Schiaffino, Two ftatues, by Baratta. At the end of the gallery are two rooms, one painted by Mitell? and Colonna ; the other by Mariani. Some figures of the virtues, by Valerio Caftelli, *f S. Sebaftian fattened to the pillar, Domenichino, Two philofophers, half figures, by Spagnoletto. St. Jerom, by the fame. The ceiling, by Piola. Salon on the left, Ecce Homo, by Ann. Carracci. A boy fleeping, by Guido. The Roman charity, by the fame. Cleopatra, Lucretia, a veftal, all by Guido. St. Jerom, by Carracci. Marriage of St. Catharine, by Paolo Veronefe. Hagar, her fon, and the angel, by Carlo Loth. St. Peter, half figure, by Ann. Carracci. The ceiling, by Piola. Next Room. David giving orders for the death of Uriah, by Guercino. The tribute money, by the fame. The woman taken in adultery, by G, C. Procaccino. St. 62 GENOA. VILLAS*' very plain, all of rough ftone ftuccoed; the walls tinged yellow, the ornaments white, which, with the green jaloufics, has a pretty effect. You enter a large fquare hall, one fide of which has open arche9 to the great ftaircafe; on the other fide are two to- lerable rooms and two clofets. From the hall you enter the falon, about forty feet fquare, having on each fide the fame number of rooms: the height of this (lory is twenty feet. This is the ground floor. That above is 24 feet high, and dtftributed nearly in the fame manner. This villa is furnifhed in a neat but plain manner, with printed linens of different colours; and the rooms and ceilings are ftuccoed with light foliage, coloured to fuit the linen. It has an excellent mezzanine full ten feet high. Behind is a garden like a French par- terre. This may ferve to give an idea of the Ge- noefe tafte in their villas. From Genoa to Seftri there is a continued chain of country houfes for fix miles together. The Genoefe ftate is well peopled, confidering the nature of the territory. The inhabitants are eftimated at 400,000, of which 80,000 are in the St. Stephen fbned, and carried to the fepulchre; converfion of St. Paul, and holy family, all by Ann. Carracci. Creation of birds, by Caftiglione. Marfyas flayed, by Paolo Veronefe. Flight into Egypt, in the ftyle of Pouflin. capital. GENOA» manners, &c.' 63 capital. The government is mild, the habitations roomy and clean, and the face of the country often romantically beautiful. The nobility have fcarcely any tincture of literature : though they are gene- rally educated in Tufcany, fcarcely any of them are able to fpeak pure Italian ; but all talk the fame wretched patois, which is in ufe among the lower people. In general they are faid to live with great parfimony in their families : and fince they always appear in black, are at little expenfe in the article of apparel. Some of them however have five or lix palaces and others, much to their ho- nour, have expended prodigious fums in public works of great magnificence or utility: witnefs the houfe for 300 girls ; the foundation for the mainte- nance of 340 nuns ; the church and bridge of Carignano ; Durazzo's college for twelve noble youths ; the fine road from Campo Marone, &c. The people are laborious, induftrious, and brave : they, with the Piedmontefe, pafs for the moil crafty nations of Italy. The ftate is poor, its annual revenues not amount- ing to 300,000 pounds fterling. The regular troops are only 2500, but they have 30,000 mili- tia, which are exercifed every month. Genoa is mod brilliant at the coronation of a Doge *. At other times there is no refource for the * He holds his office only during two years. His drefs of ceremony is a long xobe of crimfon velvet or damafk : Jiis ordi- nary 64 GENOA. TRADE, &C% the idle, but the affemblies or converfaziones; and during the carnival, the opera, which is performed in the theatre of S. Agoftino, or di Falcone, alter- nately, and plays in the theatrino. Their trade confifts in manufactures of rich filks, velvets, brocades, ftockings, gloves, artificial flowers, and gold filagree; together with their own produce of wine, oil, fruits, dried mufhrooms, anchovies, and fweetmeats: they alfo build mips for foreign powers. Genoa 1 has the face of bufinefs, though their trade is not confiderable; for the vicinity ^of Lom- bardy brings fome merchant mips, and a great quantity of goods is brought here by foreigners. The ftreets are crowded, the fhops are well fur- nifhed, and the markets abound in excellent pro- vifions. Bread is white and good, but dear: the beef, which they have from Piedmont, is juicy and delicious, but twelve fols, or near fixpence a pound. The poorefl: fort live chiefly on chefnuts* macaroni, dried fifii and cheefe. Fifli is far from plentiful ; and wood for fuel is dear. The wine made in the neighbourhood is in general indiffe- rent. The ftate has the monopoly of this, and alfo of bread and oil. The climate is fo moderate, that there is abundance of garden fluff, as peas, arti- nary drefs is red, ftockings, flioes and all ; with a large cravat of lace, and a prodigious perriwig. The procurators and fena- tors wear robes of black damafk. chokes, GENOA. TRADE, &C. 65 thokes, &c. great part of the winter; as alfo of flowers, as rofes, pinks, and carnations. The whole range of rocks on the Genoefe coaft is either flate or marble; they are very fteep both towards the fea and the land. The induftry of the inhabitants has in many places made amends for the want of fertility in the mountains, which are in general covered with olives, vines, pomegranates, orange and lemon trees; or fHaded with carob- trees and evergreen oaks ; and adorned with build- ings and gardens. SECTION IV. Departure from Genoa. Befcription of Pavia and Milan* If you purpofe to go immediately to Rome, Florence, and Naples, you will hire a felucca at Genoa for Leghorn. You may have a large one, manned with ten hands, for about five guineas : the diftance is about 160 miles, and if the wind and wea- ther are favourable, you will arrive at Leghorn in two days. You may make an agreement with the padrone, to fet you down at Lerici, in cafe of bad weather; which he will do for three or four guineas: and from thence you may t#ke the poft* The road F however 66 GENOA TO PISA. PAVIA. however from Lerici is mountainous and indiffe- rent: but you will have pleafure in feeing the mountains covered with olive trees, and abundance of vines in the low lands, running up the poplars, and ftretching from one tree to another ; with myrtles, pomegranates, Sec. growing wild along the road-fide. Majfa is the only place between Lerici and Pifa, where it is fafe to repofe; the other towns being in a flat country, near the fea. It is at Car- rara and Seravezza, in the principality of Mafia, that the fine white marble is dug, which is fo much coveted by the fculptor. The grain of the Sera- vezza marble is yet finer than that of Carrara. The marble of Porto Venere is yellow mixed with black, and extremely beautiful : and near Seftri, &c, different coloured marbles are dug. It is a journey of ten or eleven hours from Le- rici to Pifa, the gates of which are fhut two hours after fun-fet ; but they will readily open them at any time. If however you are not in hafte to be at Rome, I advife you rather to go from Genoa to Milan* To do this, you muft return by the road you came, as far as Novi, and then go by Tortona and Vog- hera to Pavia, from whence it is only two polls to Milan. Pavia from a metropolis is become a mere country town, with little or no manufactures. It has fome large buildings, and wide ftreets ,* but all- looks PAVIA. 67 Jooks neglected and gone. In fpite of a fine plain, a good river, and hills within a few miles diftance, it is an impleafant fituation. There are feveral fquares; that in the middle of the town is the moft considerable; it is furrounded with open porticos, and has an antique bronze equeftrian ftatue in it, faid to be Marcus Aurelius ; the horfe admirably done, but the emperor a mean figure. The cathedral is rebuilt; by what remains of the old church it was a heavy gothic building. The pictures are of little confequence. The church of S. Peter, with the Convent, are handfome flruclures. That of the Dominicans is large, neat, and has fome paintings. King Luitprand, Boetius, Lionel duke of Clarence, Francis duke of Lorrain, and Richard de la Pole, the pretended duke of Suffolk, are all buried in the convent of the Auguftinians. This city is moft famous for its Univerfity, founded by Charlemagne, and re-eftabliflied by Charles IV. in 1361. The Borromean feminary is remarkable for its buildings, which within are neat and elegant, and for fome paintings. The late emprefs put the Univerfity upon a refpe&able footing; "and the names of Scopoli and Spallanzani alone, are fuffi- cient to enfure it celebrity *. The river Tefm (Ticino) is wide and' deep at Pavia; it is navigable for large barques, in which * The firft of thcfc is deceafed. F z they 68 PAVIA. CHARTREUX, they export grain, hemp, cheefe, and fome wine* There is a bridge over it, 340 paces long, buik by Galeazzo duke of Milan, of brick, partly covered with marble. The grand and beautiful Chartreux, or convent of the Carthufians, is five miles from Pavia. A handfome avenue of trees leads to it from the Milan road. The church is a gothic ftruclure much ornamented, the front being of white marble with fculpture, and moft of the altars being adorn- ed with florentine work, of the fined hard ftones, inlaid in marble. Giovanni Galeazzo Vifconti, the flrft duke of Milan, founded the convent, and is buried in the church, where his monument ftill re- mains : there was an equeftrian ftatue over it, which has been long deftroyed *. Milan. * The principal pictures are — Virgin, child, and an angel. S. Michael .(landing in complete armour. The Deity furround- ed by twelve cherubim. The Annunciation in two pieces, by Pietro Perugino. • Virgin, child, and four angels. S. Anfelmo. S. Hugo. The refurretticn. Two old men writing. An old man writing, and another reading — the two laft pieces probably the four evan- gelifts. All by Macrino d'Alba. Chrift on the crofs, virgin, &c. Ambrogio FofTani. Virgin and child, S. Peter and S. Paul. Guercino. Annunciation. Camillo Procaccino. 16 16. Virgin, Magdalene, &c. with the holy handkerchief: by the fame. Adoration of the Magi. Cav. Pietro Negri. Virgin MILAN* CHURCHES. 6 9 Milan. The city of Milan is fuppofed to be not lefs than fix miles and two thirds in compafs; like Rome it has many large gardens, and like Rome too it is well peopled in the parts that are built. In general the buildings are wretched; very large palaces, with roman or neapolitan windows, and execrable architecture, moftly of brick ftuccoed, with granite architraves round the windows and doors. All the fquares are poor and mean. The inhabitants are reputed to be about 140,000. The number of churches, monafteries, feminaries, penitential chapels, colleges, brotherhoods, and fchools, is prodigious. The Duomo or Cathedral is a gothic building of an exrraordinary kind, with a grecian front by Virgin and child, S. Catharine, Sec. Cav, del Cayro. Virgin and child, S. Charles and S. Bruno. Cirano. Virgin and child, with the rofary. Marazone. Seven faints, half figures. P. Bonelli. S. Paul and S. Antony, frefco. Dan. Crefpi. Other frefcos by him are mentioned in Cochin ; but this is the beft. A curious ivory altar, with three neat gothic arches, and imall bafTo relievos. In the nave are feveral ftatues. In the Convent is an old copy of Leonardo da Vinci's laft f upper, in oil, as large as the original. Pellegrini ; JO MILAN. CHURCHES. Pellegrini*; and next to S. Peter's is the larger! church in Italy -j*. It was begun in the year 1386. The outride is loaded with fculpture J. The roof is exquifitely well wrought, and fupported by 160 vaft columns of white marble. The dome, by Brunellefcho, is in the middle of the crofs, and immediately under it is an opening, furrounded with rails, to give light to the fubterraneous chapel, where repofes the body of S. Carlo Borromeo, in a cafe of cryftal fet in filver gilt. This great church is built of brick, cafed with- out and within with marble. It confifts of a nave and four ailes, but the tranfept has only two ailes. The outfide is not near finiflied; many of the pin- nacles are not erected; and great part of the weft front remains ftill rough brickwork. # Defigned by him, and executed by Bafli. Height. Length. Breadth. «f Duomo at Milan. 180 249! 148^ S. Paul's at London. 174 256 127! S. Peter's at Rome. 222% 311^ 230I Milanefe Braccia. X Above 200 ftatues larger than life, and upwards of 4400 within and without; when Addifon reckons them to be 11,000, he muft comprehend the figures in the relievos. The moll ce- lebrated of the ftatues is that of S. Bartholomew, by Marco Ferrerio, called Agrati: it is within the church, near the facrifty. In MILAN. CHURCHES. 71 In the facrifty is a confiderable treafure, with fome good pieces of fculpture. From the top of the tower there is a very exten five* view of the vaft plain of Lombardy, and of the Alps. Of the other churches, thofe moft worthy of obfervation are — S. Aktfandro, belonging to the Barnabites; the paintings are indifferent; but the high altar, pulpit, confeflionals, f the Malatefta family, before the invention of printing. Forli is the only one of them whofe inhabitants ap- pear to have any induftry; their chief employment is in wax, linen, and umbrellas. Faenza, as if fatisfied with the honour of having given the French name (fayence) to earthen ware, makes at prefent very little, and that very bad. Thefe towns of the Romania are well built. Some o of the churches have good paintings; and there are alfo fome palaces with courts and fountains. Romagna even boafts a fchool of painting, with Baroccio at its head. You will enter Rimini over the bridge of S. Giuliano, all built of blocks of the fined white marble, in the time of Auguftus and Tiberius. At the Capuchins are remains of the amphitheatre of Publius Sempronius; and in the market place a pedeftal, which they pretend to be the fuggeflum of Julius Caefar. At the oratory of S. Jerom is a pic- ture of the faint writing, and an angel blowing the trumpet, by Guercino : and at the church of I 2 S. Giuliano j Il6 BOLOGNA TO ROME^ ft A VENN A» S. Giuliano, the martyrdom of that faint, by Paolo Veronefe. Count Gambalonga's library is kept in good order, and die building is elegant. On quitting the town you will pafs under a triumphal arch of Auguftus. From hence you may make an excurllon to Ravenna, which is diftant only four pods. It was the feat of empire under Theodoric : and afterwards was governed by Exarchs, under the Greek em- perors, from whom -it was conquered by the Lom- bards. It afterwards came into the hands of the Venetians ; and was by them finally ceded to the Pope in 1529. This city is thinly inhabited, the ftreets are wide, ftraight, and regular; moft of the facred edifices are {lately remains of its ancient fplendor. It has neither trade nor manufactures; but many idle gentry, and twenty-four convents; the inhabitants are fcarcely 15,000. Ravennais famous for its mofaics, antique marbles, farcophagi, and fome buildings of the lower ages : there are alfo fome good pictures in the churches of the Bologna fchool, but hurt by the damp. The Cathedral is good, and modernized. The cupola of the Aldobrandini chapel is painted in frefco by Guido-, and there is alfo a picture in it by him of the Ifraelites gathering manna. The Bap- tiftery is in its old flate; an octangular fabric, with eight large arches at bottom, and over each three 5 g° thil BOLOGNA TO ROME. RAVENNA. llj gothic ones : the front is a vaft bafin of white Gre- cian marble. In the church of S. Apollinare, belonging to the Camaldules, in the furburb, is a double row of columns of Grecian marble, twelve in each row, brought from Conflantinople : the altar is enriched with verd-antique, porphyry and oriental alabafter, and the tribuna is fupported by four fine columns of nero e bianco. The ceiling is one of the mofl perfect mofaics now remaining; the figures hard and dry, but with ftrong expreffion and co- lours. S. Fitak, a church of the Benedictines, is a very- ancient fabric. It is an octagon, fupported by fine columns of greek marble, and on a. fingular plan : the columns have their bafes within the ground. The pavement is very beautiful ; fome of the bas- reliefs, and the mofaics in the choir are extremely curious. In the facrifty is a picture of the martyr- dom of the faint by Baroccio. The church of S. John the evangelift, built by Placidia, has been modernized ; yet the old ci- poline columns, twenty- four in number, are re- maining; there is alfo much porphyry and verd- antique : in repairing it they found the old mofaic pavement of the fourth or fifth century, now all preferved in a chapel j it is figures and animals. $. Maria del prto. The martyrdom of S. Mark by old Palma, I 3 S. Romualdo, IlS BOLOGNA TO ROME. RAVENNA." S. Romualdo, belonging to the Camaldules. The annunciation by Guido. A faint, with an angel driving the devil from him; by Cuercino. S. Nicholas, with two children at his feet; by Carlo Cignani. In the refectory; the entombing of Chrift, by Vafari. In the fquare are two lofty granite pillars, a marble ftatue of Clement XII. by Pietro Bacci, and a bronze one of Alexander VII. On a fountain before the Pope's palace, is an antique ftatue of Hercules, with a globe on his Ihoulder, ferving for a fun-dial. In the public ftreet, at one corner of the Fran- cifcan convent, is the tomb of Dante. Without the city, towards the ancient haven, Hands the tomb of Theodoric. It is a rotunda, divided into two ftorics, each ferving for a chapel: the roof is one fingle piece of granite, four or five feet thick, and thirty one feet two inches in dia- meter; forming a dome. On the middle of this, four columns fupported the farccphagus, a fingle block of porphyry, eight feet long, and four feet deep and broad : it had a bronze cover of moft curious workmanlhip. This is gone but the far- cophagus is fixed in the wall of the convent be- longing to the Zoccolanti; where the ancient palace of Theodoric, within the city, is fuppofed to haveftood. 6 This BOLOGNA TO ROME. RAVENNA. II9 This tomb was once a (lately fea-mark ; but is now near twelve miles from the fea, and yet the lower chapel is fubmerged at high water. In the neighbourhood of Ravenna is a large foreft of pines, belonging entirely to the Benedic- tines, twelve miles in length, and three or four in breadth, called Pigneta, and furnifhing pignok, or kernels of the pine, for the deferts of a great part of Italy. Hence alfo you may make an excurfion to the little republic of San Marino, A mountain, and a few neighbouring hillocks fcattered about the foot of it, form the whole circuit of their dominions. They have three caftles, three convents, and five churches; and reckon about 5000 fouls. This re- public has fubfifted near 1400 years. All that are capable of bearing arms are exercifed, and ready at a moment's call. The government is in a coun- cil of fixty, as it is called, though it confifts only of forty members; but the Arengo, or general coun- cil, is affembled in cafes of extraordinary import- ance. The chief magiftrates are two Gapitaneos: a CommifTary, who is always a foreigner, is joined in commiflion with them, and is the judge in all civil and criminal matters. The winter is very fevere at San Marino ; the mow lying on the ground fix or feven months, to the depth of two feet or more. Pefaro was difmembered by Pope Julius -II. to I 4 make 120 BOLOGNA TO ROME. RAVENNA, make a fief for his own family, but devolved again to the holy fee, on the extinction of it. The ele- gant court of Urbino ufed to fpend the winter here in palaces, of which little more than melancholy remains are now to be feen. It had a bad charac- ter anciently for the malignity of its air in fnmmer ; but the draining of the neighbouring marfhes has long fince removed it. There are fome good pictures here by Baroccio. In the great fquare is the ftatue of Pope Urban VIII. The antiquities of Pefaro have been engraved, with explanations, in folio, under the title of Marmora Pifaurenfia, well printed here: From the mountain of Pefaro the country is flat, and the road, by the fide of the Adriatic all the way, very good, through well-built towns, and a cultivated country. Some of the fcenes are uncom- monly beautiful; and there is a fucceffion of the moll: lovely green hills imaginable, with the prof- peel: perpetually fhifting. Severe weather however fets in the beginning of December, and lafls till the middle or latter end of February; and the fnow often lies four months upon this coaft. The filk of the dutchy of Urbino, and the upper part of the Romagna, is bought up at Rimini and Pefaro, and trafficked raw with the Englifh for mo- hairs, filks, cottons, &c. At Fano arc the remains of a triumphal arch of Conftantine, BOLOGNA TO ROME. RAVENNA. 121 Conftantine, and part of a building in a good flyle: there is alfo a theatre, and a library. Half a league from Fano, the road croffes the river Metro, anciently Metaurus, famous for the total defeat and death of Afdrubal. At la Cattolica, between Rimini and Pefaro, you quitted the Romagna, and entered the dutchy of Urbino; which you quit near Cafe Brugiate^ for the marc of Ancona. Sinigaglia is a flourifhing town, almoft new built of white brick; has a little port, and fome trade in corn, hemp, and filk. During the fair, which is in the lafl week of July, there is a confiderable refort of flrangers. Ancona has a beautiful and convenient harbour ; and being a free port, and the only confiderable one which the Pope has in the Adriatic, there is a flouriihing trade here. The chief exportation is of grain, wool, and fdk. The town is built on the fide of a hill, and extends now to the water's edge. The cathedral (lands on the fummit of the pro- montory, where was anciently a temple of Venus, and this was the original fite of the place. An- cona appears well from the fea, but is a moft wretched town within, full of trade and flench : in the chief ftreet there is room but for one carriage to pafs. The mole is a very fine work, 2000 feet long, 100 feet broad, and 6 8 feet high from the water's .edge : it is adorned with an antique triumphal arch, 122 BOLOGNA TO ROME. RAVENNA,' arch, of white marble, of good proportions, and well preferved, erected in honour of Trajan. There is alfo a modern arch, in honour of Pope Benedict XIV. by Vanvitelli, who built the mole, and finiftied the Lazaretto, which is a pentagon, and a work little infe/ior to the mole itfelf. This was built in the time of Clement XII, who firft de- clared An con a a free port. Of paintings, in the church of 6*. Domenico, Chrift on the crofs, the virgin, S. John, and S. Domenico, faid to be by Tiziano. At S. Francefco della Scala, S. Francis, and another religious praying in the defert, by Porcini da Pe- faro. — A virgin holding Jefus, between two Fran- cifcans, by Tiziano. At S. Palatia, the faint of that name, with an angel, by Guercino. From Ancona to Loretto the road is hilly, and runs through a fine country, well cultivated and populous. Loretto is on the top of a hill, near three miles from the fea, commanding a delightful and exten- five profpect; and containing about 6000 inhabi- tants. It is but indifferently built; the principal flreet confifts moftly of fmall (hops for rofaries, crucifixes, madonnas, agnus dei^ medals, little works in fillagree, fmall bells, 6irc*d figured rib- bands, and fuch trifles. The church was gothic, and however modern- ized, BOLOGNA TO ROME. LORETTO^ I2J ized, has no pretentions to beauty. The front is by Giacomo della Porta •, and on one fide of the court are double arcades, faid to be finifhed by Bramante. Over the portal is a ftatue of the vir- gin by Lombardi; by whom alfo are the bas reliefs upon the bronze gates, the lower of which are al- moft effaced by the kifles of the pilgrims. Within the church are about twenty chapels, in which are pictures by Baroccio, Zucchero, &c. In the cu- pola are the four evangelifts, by Pomerancia. The holy houfe, or chapel of our Lady, ftands in the middle of the church. It is an oblong room, 31 feet 9 inches in length, 13 feet 3 inches in breadth, and 18 feet nine inches in height; in- crufted with Carrara marble, of beautiful architec- ture, defigned by Bramante; and ornamented with fculptures by Sanfovino, San Gallo, Bandinelli, &c. reprefenting the hiftory of the bleifed virgin. The walls of the holy houfe (as may eafily be feen on the infide, are of brick, with fome flat bits of ltone intermixed. Towards the eaft end there is a feparation made, by the grate-work of filver : this they call the fanctuary; and here ftands the holy image of the virgin, in a nich of filver; made, as they pretend, of cedar of Lebanon, and carved by S. Luke : her dark complexion, as well as the glit- ter of her robe entirely covered with diamonds, befpeaks her an Indian queen ; me has a triple crown on her head, and holds the image of Chrift, cover- ed 124 BOLOGNA TO ROME. LORETTO. ed alfo with diamonds ; in her left hand me carries a golden globe, and two fingers of her right are held up, as in the aft of bleffing. The other part of the houfe has an altar at the upper end, at the lower a window, through which the angel is fup- pofed to have entered, at the Annunciation. The lanftuary is perfectly crowded with fixty-two great lamps of gold and filver j one of the golden ones, which was prefented by the republic of Venice, weighs thirty-feven pounds. There are alfo An- gels waiting about the holy image, one of maiTive gold, and two of filver : and the walls are covered with plates of filver. The facred bowl, out of which the holy family ufed to eat, is preferved here. All who enter the chapel armed are excom- municated. Poor wretches are continually crawl- ing round it on their knees, and wear two deep grooves in the marble pavement *. But the jewels of the holy houfe are nothing in comparifon with the treafury; where the number, variety and richnefs of the veftments, lamps, candlefticks, goblets, crowns, crucifixes, images, cameos, pearls, gems of all kinds, Sec. is prodigi- ous. They are locked up in feventeen large prefles, in a fpacious room, the ceiling whereof is painted in compartments by Pomerancia ; the altar- * A pamphlet may be had here, giving an account of the treafures, and all the wonders of the SantiJJima Ccfa. piece BOLOGNA TO ROME. LOftETTO. I25 piece is a crucifixion, by the fame hand. Here alfo is a holy family, by Raffaelle; and the birth of the virgin, by Annibal Carracri. If the treafure within the holy walls be furprif- ing, the poverty without is no lefs fo : fuch (hoals of beggars, and fo exceffively importunate ! The country is delightful and well cultivated, warned by two rivers, and diftributed into hills and rallies bounded by mountains, from Loretto to Macerata, which is pleafantly ^tuated on a hill. It is the capital of the marc of Ancona, a bifhop's fee, and the refidence of die governor or legate of the province. There are/ good crops of corn about it, and the fields are enclofed by flourifliing hedges of white thorn, planted and preferved with great ikill and attention. At T olentino you enter the Apennines. Hence to Valcimarra the country is almoft covered with fine oaks. From Valcimarra it is a continued afcent to the narrow pais of Serravalle, an impreg- nable pod, feparating the marc of Ancona from Umbria. From Cafe move to Follgno the afcent and defcent are formidable. Before you go down the lad hill to the town, a little out of the road, in the village of Palo, there is a curious ftalaclitic cavern, really worth feeing, but the key is kept at Foligno. This town is feated in a delicious vale, of a fertile foil;, with immenfe paftures, watered by the Cli- tumnus. 126 L0RETTO TO ROME. tumnus. Here are fome manufactures of paper, and a fair of great bufinefs *• In the church of a convent of Francifcan nuns, called la Contejfa, is a picture by RafFaelle, of the virgin in glory holding the infant Jefus ; and be^ low, S. John Baptift and S. Francis on one fide, S. Jerom and a Cardinal on the other. In the Duomo, a gothic building, is a flatue of S. Feliciano, in fil- ver, by Le Gros ; a baldacchino or pavilion over ,the high altar, in imitation of that in S. Peter's at Rome ; and the cupola is by Bramante. The road from hence to Spokto is good, through a delightful plain, laid out into beautiful enclofures, and watered by the paftoral ftreams of the Clitum- nus, which takes its rife in three or four rivulets, ifTuing from a rock near the highway. Several . towns appear on rifing grounds, as AJJizi ; and a little town named Trevi, that produces the pret- tier!: effect imaginable. Juft before you come to the pod of le Vene, is a little antique temple, now chriftianized, called the temple of Clitumnus. At Spoleto, the capital of Umbria, are fome remains of antiquity : as a Roman building, call- ed a temple of concord, at the church of the cru- cifix : there are three doors which feem to have been very fine ; four columns, two large ones of * See the country from Ancona to Foligno beautifully defcrib- ed by Dr. Symonds, in Young's Annals of Agriculture, Vol. V. p. 325, &c. the XORETTO TO ROME. TERNL 12? the compofite order, twenty feet high ; two of the Corinthian order almoft as high, and ten others : thefe have been brought from other places, and put here as it were by chance : fragments of a tem- ple of Jupiter, at the convent of S. Andrea: of a temple of Mars, at the church of S. Giuliano; and of a caftle built by Theodoric. The aqueduct, out of the town, faid to be a roman work, was evidently built in the latter ages ; the arches are gothic, without any kind of proportion, and in- tolerably ugly. In the cathedral and S. Filippo •Neri are fome good pictures. About three miles beyond Spoleto, the road be- gins afcending to the higheft point of the Apen- nines on this fide, which therefore is called la Somma. Terni is fituated in a pleafant valley, between two branches of the river Nera, whence it had the name of Interamna. Here you get on horfeback, or into a calafh, in order to fee the famous Caduta delle Mar more*. It is about four miles from Terni, and the road is up a fteep afcent of the Monte di Marmore. This cataract is formed by the fall of * They charge five pauls for a horfe, and a fequin for a calafh. A Cicerone will endeavour to fallen himfelf on you, and demand ten pauls ; but he will take live, and indeed is of no ufe. the 128 LORETTO TO ROME. TERNI. the river Velino into the Nera : it does not make one leap, like the Staubbach, but confifts of three cafcades: firft falling about 300 feet upon rocks with fo much violence, that a confiderable part of the water is dafhed into vapour, which mounts again almoft as high as the top of the cafcade ; the reft at the fame time forming a fecond fall, and thence a third after which, in conjunction with the Nera, it rolls boiling and foaming along the deep valley. The roaring is heard from a confider- able diftance*. This cafcade is, I believe, gene- rally viewed only from above, where it is mod eafy of accefs ; but the view from below is infinitely the mod picturefque. This cannot be approached on horfeback, but it is not a great way to walk from the road. * M. Dutens fays that the fall is 1063 roman palms, or near 800 feet; that it is the higheft cafcade known; that the cataraft of Niagara, fo famous for its vaft bulk of water, falls only 150 feet; and that the whole fall of the Velino, from the level of its bed, to that of the Nera is 1 364 feet. It is remarkable that the French writers make the fall to be only 200 feet. Kircher fays he meafured it 300 feet, but Montfaucon will not allow it to be more than 100. Smollet makes it only 160 feet. But thefe alt certainly mean to fpeak only of the firft leap. Staubbach in the Valley of Lauterbrunn, takes one leap of 930 feet. Terni owes its celebrity in great part to its fttuation. Such cafcades are common in the Pyrenees, and in the way from Baretge to the fource of the Gave, are fifty at leaft comparable to that of Terni. — Symonds in Young's Ann. The L0RETT0 TO ROME. TERN I. NARNI. tig The valley of Terni, watered by the Nar or Nera$ for this is its name after the turbulent junc- tion of the two rivers, was famed in ancient times, and is fo ftill, for the richnefs of its foil. Pliny fays that the meadows were mowed four times in a year: and two ancient aquedu&s made for flood- ing the lands, are ftill ufed for that piirpofe. As I returned from the cafcade after dark, in a de- lightful Hill evening, the grafs in the meadows Was covered with myriads of Lucioli or little fire- flies. At Narni you will fee the remains of the bridge of Auguflus, built of vafl blocks of marble. Here you quit the Apennines, and defcend all the way to Otrkoli: near this place the views are picturefque, and there are hamlets and country houfes on the fides of the mountains. The ruins of the ancient OciricUlum .are near the banks of the Tiber, about half a mile out of the road; but there is nothing among them worth feeing. At Otricoli you quit Umbria and enter Sabina ; paffing the Tiber over a beautiful bridge of three arches, built under Auguflus, and repaired by Sixtus V. whence it has the name of Fonle Felice. All the country from hence to Rome is volcanic* The fituation of Civita Cqftelhna, by fome fuppofed to be the ancient Veil, is remarkably flrong. You perceive from the road, that the hill on K which I30 LOR E T TO TO ROME. NARNI. which it ftands is compofed of breccia and rolled pebbles ; thefe appearing under the volcanic tufo, immediately over which the town is built. About two miles before you enter Rome, you pafs the Tiber again, over the Milvian bridge, now Ponte Molle. The lad five leagues of country are the word cultivated of any on the whole road; and majeftic Rome lifts her towering head amidft a wide wafte. SECTION via Defer iption of Rome. Nothing can be more magnificent than the entrance into Rome by the Porta del Popolo* The road is fine, the approach beautiful, the gatehand- fome. The traveller immediately enters a large area, from the farther fide of which he fees the three principal ftreets of the city diverging, and flanked by the fronts of two handfome churches. In the middle is a noble egyptian obelifc, and a fountain. Rome is about thirteen miles in circuit *, mea furing round the wall; which is fingle, and with- out any ditch, defended only by fome towers and * Some fay fifteen. baftions. ROME. WALLS. GATES. HILLS. 131 baftions. The ancient wall of Aurelian yet in great part remains; the city therefore is ftill of the fame extent, though, the prefent population is only about 160,000 -f. Before the time of Aurelian, the city was no more than nine miles in compafs, and had under- gone very little alteration from Servius Tullus's time. The numerous gates of the city are by no means handfome or ornamented. The Flaminian gate, or Porta del Popolo, is the beft of them : the out- lide by Buonarroti, and that next the city by Bernini. The inhabitants of modern Rome have in a manner left the feven hills to villas, convents, gardens, and vineyards, in order to inhabit the lower parts ; and the Campus Martius is become one of the mod populous quarters of the city. Thefe hills are much lefs confiderable than they were anciently, lince the vallies have been filled up with enormous quantities of rubbifh. The feven hills are, the Aventine, Capitoline, Celian, Efquiline, Palatine, Quirinal, and. Vimi- nal : and befides thefe there are Monte Celiolo and Citorio, the Janiculum and Vatican, the Pin- cian, and monte Teftaccio. f In the reign of Claudius, the inhabitants were 6,968,000 ; but the people of the fuburbs muft have been taken into this account, and they^extended to the di fiance of 40 miles. K 2 The I32 ROME. HILLS. The Aventine hill is formed aim oft entirely of volcanic materials. The profpect from it is truly beautiful, efpccially from the gardens of the Pri- orato. The Capitollne hill has been always famous for the Capitol, from whence it takes its name. TheCclian commands a moft extenfivc profpeft, and yields only to the Palatine. The EfqulUne is the higheft of all the hills, and was inhabited by the principal families of ancient Home. The church of S. Maria Maggiore now flaii ds on it. It is well known that the Palatine hill was the fite of the fabulous palace of Evander; of the city of Rome in its infancy ; of the palace of the Em- perors, in the time of its greateft power and mag- nificence; and now of kitchen gardens. The Roman Emperors could not have chofen a finer fituatidti : it was about 1 25 feet higher than the via facra, and commanded every part of the city, as well as the river and all the adjacent hills. The Quirinal hill is very lofty, of good extent, and now enjoys the beft air in Rome. The Viminal is much the fmalleft of the feven hills, and is a long, narrow flip of ground. The chief pitique building of confequence was the baths of Olympias, feme very little remains of which we fee in the convent of S. Lorenzo in Pane e Perna. . Monte ROME. HILLS. STREETS, 1 33 Monte Celiolo is very inconfiderable : there was a temple on it facred to Mars, on the ruins of which the church of S. John is built. Monte Citorio is raifed chiefly by rubbifh. The Janiculum 9 or Monte Giant colo, is of great extent, and reaches from Ponte Molle along the villas Madama, Mellini, Pamfili, and Corfini, quite to the flat part of the Campagna, in the way to Oftia." Monte Vaticano is only a part of this, and at the foot of it is the Vatican palace, and the church of S. Peter. Monte Pincio commands fome delightful views. Salluft's gardens were here, and Villa Ludovifi is now on that fite. Villa Medici is in a delicious fituation on this hill. Monte Teflaccio is 160 feet high, and half a mile in circumference, compofed wholly of potfherds. • There are vaults under it, in which wine is kept remarkably cool, and in fummer there is a great refort of people to drink it. Some years lince they found fome tombs under it, clone in the beft ages, and paved with mofaic. Some of the principal ftreets of Rome are of confiderable length, and ftraight. That called the Corfo is mod frequented. It is above a mile in length. Here are the horfe-races; and here the nobility difplay their equipages during the carni- val, and generally in the evenings, when it is fine K 3 weather* 134 ROME. STREETS. weather. The palaces, of which there are many in thisftreet, range in a line with the other houfes; having no court before them like many of the great hotels at Paris nor being fhut up like Bur« lington-houfe in London, within high, gloomy walls-, but contributing greatly to the ornament of the city. Strada Felice, in the higher part of Rome, from Trinita de' Monti to S. Maria Maggiore, is above a mile in length, and thence to the church of S. Giovanni in Laterano, is near another mile; all in one line, only with the view interrupted by the fine church of S. Maria Maggiore. This ftreet is crofted by another ftraight ftreet, called Strada Pia, confiderably above a mile in length, ter- minated at one end by Porta Pia, at the other by the coloflal ftatues at Monte Cavallo. The inter- fe&ion of thefe ftreets is one of the nobleft points of view in Rome. It would be difficult to convey any idea of the fmaller and lefs regular ftreets. In general, how- ever, we cannot avoid obferving the ftrange mix- ture of interefting and magnificent with common and beggarly objects: palaces, churches, fountains, and the fineft remains of antiquity, with rags, po- verty, and filth. There are many Piazze, or Places, as the French call them; and we improperly Squares, i. S, Apojloli. 2. Barberini, wherein are two fountains by ROME. SQUARES. ijjj by Bernini. 3. Del Campidoglio. 4, Campo di Flore, wherein is the corn-market; and on mon- days and faturdays a market for horfes. Perfons condemned by the inquifition are burnt here* 5. Piazza Capranica, 2l fmall fquare, on which is one of the theatres, that takes its name from it. 6. Colonna, with the Antonine column in the mid- dle of it. 7. Farnefe. 8. Di S. Maria Maggiore. 9. Piazza Mattei. 10. Montanara. 11. Before the Quirinal palace, or Monte Cavallo. 12. Monte Cttorio, a handfome fquare, in which is the pe- deflal of the true Antonine column ; and on one lide of it the Curia Innocenziana, or palace of juftice. 13. Piazza Navona, a fine area, with fome hand- fome buildings round it, and a magnificent foun- tain by Bernini, in the middle. Every funday in auguft this fquare is flooded by means of the foun- tain, and the nobility and gentry drive round in their carriages through the water. Here alfo is one of the principal markets, efpecially on wetl- nefdays. 14. Piazza di Pafquino, a fmall fquare, in which are many bookfellers' (hops ; but chiefly remarkable for the antique mutilated flattie of a greek foldier, well known under the name of Paf- quin. It has been called a* gladiator, a foldier of Alexander the Great, Hercules and Mars; but it is now thought to be Patroclus. It was found in the beginning of the 1 6th century, near the Or- fini palace, now Santobuono, and was placed over K 4, againft I36 ROME. SQUARES. FOUNTAINS. again ft the fhop of one Pafquino, a taylor, whevQ was a refort of perfons who ufed to llander and pull every one to pieces ; and hence the name. 15. Di S. Pietro, the fine area before S. Peter's church, furrounded by Bernini's portico, fup- ported by 286 columns, and fupporting 138 fta- tues. 16. Del Popolo, at the entrance of Rome from Florence, &c. 17. Della Rot onda, where is the famous Pantheon, now generally called Ro* ionda; and a fountain with an obelifk. 17. Piazza di Spagna, where is the palace of the SpaniQi am- bafTador, il Collegio della propaganda, Bernini's fountain of the Barcaccia or boat, and the fine flight of fteps up to Trinita di monte. 18. Pi- azza della Colonna Trajana> a fmall fquare, remark- able chiefly for the famous pillar. The principal ornaments of the Piazze, or open areas of Rome, are the Fountains. That in the Piazza Navona, is the mo ft magnificent in the whole world. It is a vail rock, pierced through and through, fo as to be divided into four parts which unite at the top, where the obelifk is placed : towards the bottom of each part of the rock is feated a colofTal figure, reprefenting the principal rivers, with their attributes. The Fountain of Pope Paul V. near the church of S. Pietro Montorio, is in a very bad ftyle. The water is fo rapid as to turn feveral mills ; it ferves all the Trafteveie, and is even carried along Ponte ROME. FOUNTAINS. AQUEDUCTS. I37 Pome Sifto-, but it has a bad tafle. It was brought by Auguftus from the lake of Bracciano, 35 miles from Rome, to fupply his Naumachia, and there are now great remains of the aqueduct near the villa Pamfili. Font ana M T ermine receives the Acqua Felice ; it is a defpicable piece of architecture by Fontana, Here are three bas-reliefs, reprefentihg Mofes ftriking the rock; and in the middle is a coloffal ftatue of Mofes by Profpero Brefciano : here are alfo two egyptian lions of bafalt, formerly placed under the portico of the Pantheon. Sixtus V. brought this water from Colonna, twenty miles from Rome. Fontana di 'Trevi receives the Acqua Vergine. It is a noble fountain. This is the only water which now comes to Rome by an ancient aqueduct : it is for the mod part under ground, which is the reafon why it has been fo much better preferved than any other. This is alfo the befl: water in Rome; and all the lower parts of the city being furnifhed from the fountain of Trevi, thofe who prefer good water to good air, live in thofe parts. It was brought from the Sabina by Agrippa, to fupply the Campus Martius. The abundance of fountains in Rome, gives an air of coolnefs, life, and motion, to the whole city; but it is a great miftake to conclude from thence, as I|8 ROME. AQJJEDUCTS. BRIDGES. as many have done, that it is plentifully fdpplied with good water; for the reverfe is really the cafe. The river Tiber divides the city, properly fo called, from the Tranjlevere, or quarter wherein is the church of S. Peter and the palace of the Vati- can. This river is about 315 feet wide, at the bridge of S. Angelo, and is navigable for great barques : the water is yellow and turbid. There are now three Bridges at Rome — - 1. That of S. Angelo, anciently Pons Adius, leading to the caftle, S. Peter's and the Vatican. All the upper part of it is finifhed by Bernini, in a good taftej the ftatues on it are heavy and dif- agreeable. 2. Ponte Ceftio, or of S. Bartolomeo, to pafs from the Ifola Tiberina to Tranftevere ; and Quat- tro Capi, anciently pons Fabrichis, to go from the fame illand into the city. 3. Ponte Siilo, anciently pons Jankulcrifis, rebuilt by Sixtus IV. in 1473. Ancient Rome had fix bridges. There are fome fmall remains of the Subtkian bridge*, which was the only one, when Horatius Codes defended it fo valiantly. It was then only of wood ; but was afterwards built of ftone by Lepidus. * They may be Teen from Ripa grande. There HOME. BRIDGES. 1 39 There are more remains of the Senatorian bridge, now called Ponte Rotto, which fhow it to have been very noble. It was repaired by Julius III ; but falling foon to decay, it was again repaired under Gregory XIII. in 1575 : but in 1598 a flood car- ried away two of the arches, and it has remained ever fince in a ruinous ftate. Part of the Pons triumph alls is to be feen, oppo- fite to the church of Spirito Santo ; and from the bridge of S. Angelo fome fmall remains of the piers. Ponte Molle, anciently Pons Emilianus, and then Milvius, is out of the city, above a mile from the porta del popolo, on the Flaminian way *. It was built in Juftinian's time, and rebuilt by NicholasV. on the old foundations. The river here is full 4 feet over. The old bridge, where the battle was fought between Conilantine and Maxentius, was 200 feet higher up the river. Cicerones and Books f are by no means want- ing at Rome. To put yourfelf. under the conduct of * Near this is the Rotonda of S. Andrea, by Vignola, per- fectly chafte, and perhaps the belt modern building about Home. f Famiani Nardini, Roma antica. 1666. In Gracvius's collection. Infignium Roma? templorum, &c. profpeclus, a J. Jaccbo de Kubeis. 1683. Studio d'architettura civile de Roffi 1702, 171 i 3 1721. Defcrizione 140 ROME- of one of the former, will be the lead trouble, if you do not regard the expence ; and the fureft way of feeing every thing according to rule. If you commit yourfelf to the books, you will rind every thing defcribed with almoft the fame degree of admiration. I have endeavour- ed to felect, from my own obfervation, what- ever feems to me moft worthy of attention ; and to difpofe it in fuch a manner as may moft eafily catch the eye, and offer itfelf when it is wanted. The city is divided into fourteen quarters or wards, called Rionu In moft of the guide books the churches, palaces, &c. are to be found under thefe divifions. I have preferred another method; and have thrown every thing into a few clafTes or ge- neral heads, placing the particulars under each, Befcrizione topografica delle antichita di Roma. 1763. 4*. —and di Roma moderna, 1766, dell' Abbate Ridolfini Venuti. Le antichita Romane, di Piranefi, &c. &c. There is a great plan of Rome by Noli, in nine meets, with a defcription. And variety of fmaller plans. The common guide-books are, II Mercurio errante, di Pietro Rofiini, 1760. 120. Defcrizione delle pitture, fculture, &c. diFilippo Titi. 1763. 12". Roma antica e moderna, in three volumes, 8°. 1765. Vafi itineraire inftru&if. 1773. 12 0 . He alfo has publiihecj views of Rome. ROME. COLISEUM. I4I for the moft part, alphabetically. A perfon of tafte will always quit Rome with regret; but it is impoffible to view the principal things there to any purpofe, in much lefs than three months. Let us begin with ancient Rome. In Antiquities the Colisjeum takes the lead. It obtained this name from an enormous cololial figure of Apollo with the head of Nero, fixty feet high. It was alfo called the Flavian Amphitheatre; Flavius Vefpafian having begun it, after his tri- umph over the Jews. It was finifhed and dedi- cated by Titus. The area is an oval of 620 Eng- lifti feet by 513 ; the height is 164 feet 3! inches, viz. the doric order 34 feet 4! inches, the ionic and corinthian, each 38 feet 11 inches, the pillaf- trade 47 feet 8 inches, and the parapet over that 4 feet 5 inches: and the circumference meafured on the outfide 1741 feet. It is commonly faid to be 25 feet within the ground. Mr, Hardwick, however, found the bafe of one of the doric co- lumns 14 feet within the ground; the bafe refting on the pavement, without any pedeftal orfubplinth. The three rows of columns are all remarkably plain : the pilafters over the upper row of corin- thian pillars are corinthian, not compofite. When complete it had 80 arches 36 are now remaining, together with the whole fuperftructure on the north fide. The four centre arches are - confiderably 8 wider I4 2 ROME, COLISEUM. wider than the others; and the entablature of the lower order, under the arch which communicated with the part allotted to the Emperor, is broken away in a manner that feems to indicate there hav- ing been' originally a communication with the im- perial palace. On the fide of the pier of one of the arches oi L he middle order are the veftiges of a bal- luflrade, or parapet, 2 feet 11 inches high, with a cornice and bafe, the profile of which may be eafily traced, and with which it is probable the openings of both the upper orders of arches were defended to prevent any accident from the multitudes afTem- bled in the open corridores. It has been pillaged at various times ; but is ftill a moft ftupendous and pic~lurefque ruin. It is generally faid that this Amphitheatre held 1 oo,oco fpectators ; other fay 85',ooo, 8o 5 ooo, and 50,000 j but according to Fontana's meafurement, allowing a foot and half to each perfon, no more than 34,000 perfons could lit in it; fo that in order to have held the great numbers which it is faid to have done, we muft fuppofe that there were galleries at the top, which were probably of wood. There are chan- nels in the entablature of the pilaftrade, evidently intended for the purpofe of fixing poles, from which an awning was extended over the fpectators. The floors of the corridores are paved with a final! kind of brick, and are cafed with a ftrong incruf- tation of ftucco, as were all the internal walls ; on fome HOME. ARCHES. 143 fomeof which, particularly in and near the empe- ror's feat, and in the foffite of the arches oppofite to it, are remains of ornaments in plafter, and in fome places they are lined with marble. All the flone work was bound by cramps, without any ce- ment. The Arch of Cotijlantlne is all of marble, and (till entire; the architecture is beautiful. It was erected after the defeat of Maxentius, and was fo con- trived that the muflc for the triumph might be placed within it. When the proceffion reached the arch, the band began to play, and continued till the whole had palfed through. There are fome excellent bas-reliefs on it, taken from the arch of Trajan, which, compared with the others of the time of Conftantine, ferve to (how how miferably the art of fculpture had fallen in the latter period, whilft architecture Hill kept its ground. The Arch of Titus is by far the firft at Rome in point of architecture ; and is remarkable for the infcription, which yet remains, but efpecially for the excellent fculpture of Vefpalian and Titus car- rying in triumph the fpoils of the temple at Jeru- falem, among which are the golden candleftick, and the table of mew-bread. On the other fide is the emperor in his car, drawn by four horfes ; and in the roof the apotheofis of Titus. The compofite order is faid to have been firfc ufed at Rome in this arch. There are eleven columns of this 144 Rome, ♦campo vaccino. this order at Rome, nine of which are in S. Peter's J they are all laid to have been brought from the' temple of Jerufalem. The Arch of Septimius Severus is of faline marble, and ornamented with fluted columns of the com- pofite order, and bas-reliefs, in a bad ftyle. It is at lead 2 5 feet in the ground, and the two fide' arches are almoft entirely buried. The principal of the ruins in the Campo Vac- cino are — 1. Three beautiful fluted Corinthian co- lumns, at the foot of the Capitoline hill, buried 35 feet in the ground, fo that the elegant frieze repre- fenting the inftruments of facrince is in a manner level with the eye : thefe are fuppofed to be part of the temple of Jupiter tcnans, built by Auguftus. 2. Eight columns feven of, gray, and one of red granite, of different fizes, and not handfome : part of the portico of the temple of Concord. 3. A fin- gle pillar with a corinthian capital. 4. The tem- ple of Antoninus and Faufina, of which ten columns are remaining, fifty feet high, and each one block of numidian marble, in a fine tafte : they {land before the church of S. Lorenzo in Miranda. 5. The temple of Romulus and Remus, now the church of S. S. Cofmo and Damiano*. The old bronze * It is probable that the church of S. Theodore, at the foot of the Palatine hill, is the fite of the ancient temple of Romulus, fmce the famous bronze wolf in the Capitol was found in it, The prefent building is of much later ages. There is a little altar at the entrance, which is antique. doors ROME. CAMPO VACCINO. 145 doors of the temple are entire : the pedeftals, the porphyry pillars, and entablature, are all likewife antique. They were taken up, and replaced in their prefent fituation, near 20 feet higher than the floor. 6. Two columns near this, buried half way in the ground, againft the Oratory of the Con- fraternity of Via cruris. 7. Three vaft arches of the T emple of Peace, fmilhed by Vefpafian, after E -e reduction of Judsea, partly out of the famous golden houfe of Nero. This was much the larger! temple in old Rome, and quite different in form from the reft. The columns were very fine, as may be feen by the only one remaining, now be- fore the church of S. Maria maggiore. 8. The remains of two fquare rooms, within the convent of S. Maria nuova, generally fuppofed to have been the temples of the Sun and Moon. 9. Three great columns before the church of S. Maria li- beratrice, not far from the Palatine hill; fuppofed by fome to have belonged to the building where the comitia were held, but commonly called the temple of Jupiter Stat or. The capitals of thefe co- lumns are the richefl in Rome, and the frieze is plain. 10. From the Campo Vaccino is the princi- pal entrance into the Orti Farnejiani, by a ruftic portal of Vignola's. Thefe occupy a confiderable part of the Palatine hill, where the ruins of the Imperial Palace maybe feen. It was 1700 feec long, 1 200. broad, and more than 120 in height; L but 1^.6 ROME. BATHS. but little of it now remains, except fome vaft arches and foundations of brick. The great hall was traced out by Bianchini. Two baths were alfo difcovered, incrufted with marble, and with moil curious painting and gilding on the ceilings. The greateft curiofities are fome elegant capitals of columns. The whole ground, which is now a kitchen garden, is full of ancient marbles. The ftatues found here were many, but not very fine. There is now a good one of Commodus, and a very particular one of Efculapius. The Emperors difplayed much of their magni- ficence in Therma or warm-baths for public ufe. They were not merely for bathing, but for aca- demies, and the gymnaftic exercifes : and con- tained libraries, mufaeums,, &c. The baths of Titus were about 790 feet by 684. All the rooms had a communication with the large one in the middle, where the youths performed their exercifes in bad weather. The remains of them are immenfe vaults and corridores under ground, painted with arabefques, from which it is faid RarTaelle took the idea of his paintings in the loggie of the Vatican ; but little or nothing of them is now difcernible. Near thefe are the fette fak, or refervoi* of wa- ter for thefe baths. They are galleries about 15 feet broad, 10 high, and of different lengths, the longcft not exceeding 38 feet} they communicate by ROME. BATHS. , 147 by apertures, which are in a diagonal direction with each other. The baths of Caracalla are at the foot of the Aventine mount, and immenfe ruins of them ftill remain. There were two vaft rooms, which they could lay together; one was 310 feet long, and the other was much bigger. They contained 2300 cells *, wherein as many perfons might bathe at the fame time, without feeing each other: they were alfo rich in ftatues and other ornaments f . Diocletian* s Baths were 1200 feet fquare, and yet not fo large as thofe of Caracalla. They occupied all the gardens of the Carthufian convent, the pub- lic granaries, the great fquare before them, and the church of S. Bernardo, which is circular and antique. A part of thefe Therm* is converted into the church of S. Maria degli Angeli |. There were no lefs than fifteen Circufes at Rome. The Circus maximus occupied all the valley be- tween the Palatine and Aventine hills. According to Pliny it was three ftadia long, and one ftadium and an half broad || ; and held 385,000 fpectators. * De La Lande fays 3000, There were 1600 marble feats : thofe in the cloifter of S. Giovanni in Laterano are fuppofed to have been two of them. — Wright, t The Toro and Hercules Farnefe, &c. were found here. % Palladio has given plans of thefe three Therms. jj The Stadium was 625 feet, or near a furlong. L 2 It 14$ ROME. ClRCtfSfcS. It is calculated that 280,000 might fit there; the reft muft have been in temporary galleries. No- thing of it now remains but the fite, and fome large arches on the fide of the Palatine hill : the area is chiefly occupied by gardens. The Circus of Flora was in Piazza Barberini, and grew into difufe upon the building that of Salluft y in the vale oppofite to what is now Villa Ludo- vifi. It was about 1600 feet long. Near it are fome ruins, perhaps of the temple of Venus Erycina. Circus Flaminius, extended from the foot of the Tarpeidn rock, as far as the Altieri palace. The remains, which are trifling, may be feen in the vaults of the convent of the nuns of S. Ambrogio. That which is now Piazza Navona, was the Circus Agonalis. The Circus of Caracalla, as it is called, is about two miles from Rome, between S. Sebaftian's gate and Capo di Bove. The length is 1630 feet, the breadth 330; a covered gallery ran round it, and over that were feats, on three fides; on the fourth, where the career was, the Emperor had a portico. This is the mod entire of all the Circufes, for the walls and the two metal are ftill {landing. The Egyptian obelifk, which is now in the Pi- azza Navona, flood in the middle of it. It pro- bably ferved for the fuburb, which was confiderable hereabouts. The ROME. COLUMNS. 149 The two noble Columns of Trajan and Antoni- nus are well known. That of Trajan (lands in a fmall fquare, the bafe near 1 5 feet under the pre- fent level of the ground about it. It is of the Tufcan order, and the fineft fpecimen of that fpe- cies of architecture now extant. The height is near 128 Englifli feet, the (haft alone 92I. This is of 23 pieces, admirably carved in bas-relief, in a fpiral line, with the actions of the Dacian war. Though there be neither cement nor cramps, the ancients not ufing the firft in their edifices of hewn-ftone, and the Goths having wrenched out all the latter, yet this (haft Hands firm and entire, the inner furface of the (tones being worked fo even, that the joints are fcarcely vifible. The fculpture on the pedeftal is fome of the very beft Roman workmanfhip. There is a commodious flaircafe within, to afcend to the top ; on which now (lands a colofTai (latue of S. Peter. The Column of Antoninus, or more properly of AureliuS) far inferior in merit to Trajan's, (lands to more advantage, quite clear of the ground, and in the middle of a large fquare, called from the column Piazza Colonna. It is higher than Trajan's, the (haft alone being 106 feet high, and the pedef- tal very lofty. The (haft is carved in bas-relief, with the actions of Marcus Aurelius in the war againft the Marcomanni, but the execution is poor. On the top is a coloffal ftatue of S. Paul, L 3 placed 150 ROME. FORUMS. placed there when Sixtus V. reftored the column in 1589. This has been improperly named ; for Antonine's column was an immenfe one of granite, about feven feet in diameter, part of which is now to be feen behind Monte Citorio. It flood on a pedeftal, or- namented with bas-reliefs of the funeral games and apotheolis of the Emperor, which is to be feen on Monte Citorio. The Roman Forum was the vale between the Ca- pitoline and Palatine hills, where the Campo Vac- cino or beaft-market now is ; but the area of this is much larger than the ancient Forum, which was probably about 7 50 feet in length, and 500 in breadth *L There were feveral other Forums in the city ; as thofe of Augujlus; Antoninus Pius, in the middle of which the Antonine column ftood ; of Nerva, wherein are the remains of a temple of Mars, built by Auguflus : there are two Corinthian fluted co- lumns, of Greek marble, of a vafl fize, but in two pieces; with beautiful foliage, and a Minerva in bas-relief. The wall, which was probably the boundary of this Forum, is 60 feet high, and en- tire for a long fpace. But the Forum of Trajan, where the column now (lands, was the fined in Rome, and was built by the famous Grecian artift Fohdorus, who alfo made the column. * For the buildings, fee the article Campo Vaccina. The ROME. MAUSOLEUMS^ 151 The Maufoleum of Auguftus is by the palace of the Marquis Correa, near the church of S. Carlo, between the Corfo and the river. It is a miferable remain of the magnificent ftructure erected by Auguftus to receive the afh.es of the Csefars. The inner wall, which is circular, is (till entire ; it was furrounded by three other circular walls, which rofe 30 feet one above another, and the top was co- vered with a dome. The area was left open, and the vaults for fepulture were in fmall rooms under the corridores. The area is now converted into a garden. There is much of the opus reticuiatim in this building, but no remains of columns, and only a fmall piece of the frieze. This maufoleum was one of the chief ornaments of the Campus Mar- tiusy which at that time extended from hence to the theatre of Marcellus, and from the foot of the hills to the Tiber. Soon after it was fo crouded, that there was not room for the troops to exercife; in Nero's time, therefore, it was extended to Pont e Molle. The Maufoleum of Adrian, now the Cattle of S. Angelo, from one of the moft beautiful buildings in the world, is become one of the moft ugly. It was incrufted with white marble, furrounded with fine columns, and enriched with ftatues and other ornaments; deftroyed in the time of Belifarius. It is now not only the citadel of Rome, but the arfenal, treafury, and ftate prifon, A covered way L 4 extends I ' ■ 152 ROME. MAUSOLEUMS. extends to it from the Vatican, in order that his Holinefs may get into this place of fafety, in cafe of an infurre&ion, or a fndden attack. In the great room which occupies the centre of the build- ing, and two others, are admirable arabefqucs by Giulio Romano, Perrino del Vaga, and other fcho- lars of Railaelle : alfo fome antiques ; as a buft of Antoninus Pius, aftatue of Roma triumphans, &x. Some columns in the church of S. Paolo fuori were taken from this building : and the large pine fruit of bronze, which Dante mentions, and which is now in the garden of the Belvedere, was once on the top of it. The tomb of Catus Ceftius is a beautiful Pyra- mid, and the only one in Europe, near the Oftian gate, or porta di S. Paolo. Aurelian made it a boundary-, and it now ftands half within and half without the city walls. It is a hundred feet high, but being in a hollow, the bafe being buried, and the ground rifing near twenty feet round it, the building does not appear fo high as it really is. Within there is a room, 20 feet long, 14 broad, and 13 high-, adorned with paintings, but they are now almoft effaced. On the outfide is an in- fcription, fignifying that it was erecled in memory of C. Ceftius Septemvir Epulonum, or provider for the feafts of the gods. Two antique fluted columns {land near it, which bear no proportion to the py- ramid. ROME. OBELISKS. 153 ramid. Heretics are permitted to be interred on the fpot juft by. The fepulchre of Caius Bibulus, of the days of the republic, is at the extremity of the Capitol, towards the Campius martius, near the via lata. This, and that of the Claudia family, were without the walls, till Trajan extended them, to include his Forum within the circuit. The tomb of Bi- bulus has two Angularities : it is of the Tufcan or- der, and its pilafters are narrower at the top than at the bottom. All along the Appian way, for many miles to- gether, are the foundations of fepulchres ; but the only one which deferves attention is that of Cecilia Metella, the wife of Craffus. The lower ftory, which is fquare, lies within the ground; over it is a round tower, which was covered with a dome. The tower is pretty perfect, built entirely of Ti- vertine ftone, and put together without cramps, or cement •, the frieze has bull's heads in relievo, whence it took the modern name of Capo di bove. This is the handfomeft building left of the times of the Republic. The battlements were added in the lower ages, when it was ufed as a place of de- fence. There is nothing to be feen within but the vault, which terminates in form of a cupola. The Farnefe family removed the farcophagus. There are ten Egyptian Obelifes fet up at Rome, and two on the ground — 1. That J£4 ROME. OBELISKS. 1. That which Hands in the midft of the vaft area before S. Peter's is 72 feet high, and rec- koning the bafe, 108 : it is plain, or without hie- roglyphics. This is the only obeliik which was found entire. 2. The Obelifk before S. Giovanni in Laterano is covered with hieroglyphics, and having been thrown down by the barbarians, was broken into three pieces. The height, including the pedeftal, which is the belt of any in Rome, is about 138 feet. 3. The Obeliik behind S. Maria maggiore was taken from the Maufoleum of Auguftus. It is plain, and much fmaller than the others. 4. That in the Piazza del Popolo is 66 feet high, and covered with hieroglyphics. 5. The Obeliik of the Piazza Navona Hood in the circus of Caracalla. It is about 55 feet high, and has one row of hieroglyphics. 6. A {mail one before the church of the Minerva, fet upon an elephant's back, by Bernini. It be- longed to a temple of I (is, and was found in the garden of the adjoining convent. 7. Another fmall one, by the church of S. Igna- zio : it has hieroglyphics on it, and was in the Campus Martius. 8. A third fmall one, with hieroglyphics, is in the garden of the Villa Medici. 9. A broken pieced one at Villa Mattei. Befides ROME. OBELISKS TEMPLES. I55 • Befides thefe which are {landing, there is one very large one proftrate in the back court of a pa- lace, called la Vignaccia, not far from the Ripetta. It is of red granite, like the reft ; but the hierogly- phics are better executed. It is much to be la- mented, that it is fo much broken, as to have dif- couraged the government from fetting it up ; fince it feems to be the mod curious of any of the obe- lifks, as well as the largeft. There was another by the Scala Santa, which is now fet up at Monte Cavallo ; and a third, in feveral pieces, at the Bar- berini palace. Of all the Temples, and indeed of all the build- ings, which ancient Rome has left us, the Pantheon is certainly the mo ft noble and perfect. The portico has eight columns in front, and three co- lumns with one pilafter on the fides, all of granite, with corinthian capitals and bafements; but none of them exactly of the fame fize. The infcription is on the frieze. The bronze door did not belong to it, but the door-cafe of white marble, in the proportion of 40 to io> is quite complete, as it was originally. The outride of the whole building was incrufted with marble. The portico and body of the edifice were probably built at different times. The infide is exactly 143 feet and an half in dia- meter without the recefTes, a complete circle, and as much from the pavement to the hole which lets in the light; this hole is 25 feet in diameter. The dome 1$6 ROME. TEMPLES. dome is very plain, but in its glory was probably covered with plates of filver. The pavement is of porphyry and giallo antico, bordered with other precious marbles. The infide is handfomely fitted up ; oppofite to the door is the great altar, and on each fide of that, four other altars; the pillars gi- allo-antico and pavonazzo alternately ; on the al- tars themfelves granite or porphyry pillars, with larger ones of giallo-antico. The room is ex- tremely well lighted by the aperture. Several famous artift.s are buried here, as Raffa- elle, Perrino del Vaga, Annibale Carracci, Taddco Zuccheri, Flaminius Vacca, and the famous muii- clan Corelli. The elegant Temple of Fortuna virilh is now a church of the Armenians, under the name of S. Maria Egizziaca. It was probably built in the times of the republic; as the columns, which are of a chafte ionic, are only (lone ftuccoed : the frieze, though but of ftucco, is well preferved : half the columns only projected from the walls. Near this is a building, in a bad ftyie, of the lower ages, patched up out of the ruins of better edifices, vulgarly called Pilate's palace. In this neighbourhood is the little elegant round Temple of Vcfta, now the church of Madonna del Sole. There is a portico round it of 20 corinthian columns, which was open, but is now filled up. with a wall : the walls arc of Greek marble. It is fituated ROME. TEMPLES. . 1 5 7 fituated low, and near the Tiber. In a manner under it, is the opening of the Cloaca maxima, or great common -fewer of the city, 14 feet high, and as many wide, built of vail flones, and in perfect repair, though faid to have been made by Tarqui- nius Prifcus. S. Maria in Cofmedin is built on the ruins of a temple, faid to be that of Pudicitia, or Modefty, At one end of the portico is a great antique mall;, or perhaps a (ink to let water through, with a wide mouth, called la bocca delta verita. Some will have the church of S. Stefano Rotondo to have been a temple of Faunus. Others fay that it was the Tholus of Claudius. It is round, bigger than the Pantheon, and perfect. It has many faults ; fo that one can hardly fuppofe it of genuine antiquity. Two corridores run round it, fupportcd by granite columns, of different diameters, and with various capitals; fome have the crofs on them, which mows that part of it at lead was done in chriftian times. Probably by Simplicius and Ni- cholas the Fifth. Here is a pulvinar deorum cum feabello, a kind of chair with a footftool, on which the gods were fuppofed to (it. It is of marble, and ornamented wiih relief. The church of S. Urban alia Coffarella, at fome di fiance from the city, was a temple, fome fay of Mars, Piranefi thinks of Bacchus; perhaps it was the temple of the Mufes, It is entirely of brick, except 1^8 ROME. TEMPLES. except the columns, which are white marble, and corinthian : the frieze is plain, and the brick cor- nice is better preferved than the marble capitals. At the foot of the eminence on which this build- ing (lands, is the Fountain of the Nymph Egeria, Numa's favourite retreat. There are fome remains of the building over this fpring, with much reti- culated work about it; three niches for ftatues on each lide, and in the front a large recefs, wherein is a cumbent ftatue of the nymph, broken and much worn. The water is very clear and fwect. All this fide of Rome abounds with remains of Antiquity. Not far from the fountain of Egeria is a fmall building of brick, faid to be the temple which the Romans erected to Ridicule when Hanni- bal quitted Rome, without having accomplifhcd any thing anfwerable to his reputation : or, as others will have it, to the god Rediculus, a reditu or redeundo. However this may be, it is clearly a building of later times, from the trivial orna- ments with which it is loaded. Near the circus of Caracalla is a round temple, with an ante-temple, through which you muft pafs to enter the other : and this is fuppofed to be the temple of Virtue and Honour. Here alfo are the ruins of the temple of Mars *, where the victors waited for leave from the Senate * Venuti thinks it was a place for the horfes to be in, before they entered the circus. to ROME. TEMPLES. I55 to enter the city. It was a large fquare, with a rotunda in the middle, of about 108 feet dia- meter. The lower part is exactly in its ancient lituation; vaulted, with feveral recefTes, and a vaft pier in the middle, to fupport the floor of the rotunda. To return into the city. In a vineyard near the church of S. Bibiana, is the piclurefque ruin of the temple of Minerva Medica. It was a decagon, co- vered with a dome; not lighted from the top, but from ten windows placed over ten niches. The whole is 75 feet diameter. The fides were in- crufted with porphyry and ferpentine, of which there are Hill fome fragments. Many ftatues and butts were found here : As the Minerva of the Giuftiniani gallery. A Pomona in black marble. Efculapius. Venus. Adonis. A faun, now in the Farnefe gallery. Hercules. Antinous. Bufts of Emperors in bronze. The whole dome was brick ; the ribs remain, but the interftices have fallen in. The famous temple of the Sun was built by Au- relian, on the top of the Quirinal hill, now the flte of the Colonna gardens, where there is a piece of the cornice and frieze, from whence we may form fome judgment of its magnificence. The columns muft have been 70 feet high, and the workmanfliip is exquifite. 8 The i i6o ROME. TEMPLES. The temple of Janus, as it is improperly called, has no appearance of ever having been a temple; it was more probably an exchange or market-houfe. It is all of white Greek marble, fome of the blocks of an immenfe fize. It has four equal fronts, with a large opening in the middle of each; and on each fide are fix niches for ftatues. It is a curious, folid edifice, but by no means handfome : the materials too good for the times of the republic ; the workmanfhip too bad for the times of the Emperors. Near this is an arch, called the arch of the filver- fmiths, becaufe it was erected by that company, to' the honour of Septimius Severus and his fon Ca- racalla, in the old foro boario. It is fmall, and in a bad tafie, full of ufelefs ornaments. In a fquare called Piazza di Pietra, is the Dogana di terra, built on the fite of what is called Anto- nine's Bafilica; though more probably a Temple. The columns are of white marble, fluted and Co- rinthian, with handfome capitals. Eleven are now entire. The Portico of Oflavia, on the Pefcarta or filli- market, is an oblong building, in which the two principal fronts have each four columns, and two pilafters, of the corinthian order. Over againft this, in the court of a houfe, are three compofite columns, faid to be part of a temple of Juno by fome ; ROME. THEATRES. l6l fome; of a temple of Bellona, by others. And about twenty paces farther are two fluted columns, thought to be part of a temple of Mars. In the convent of S. Niccolo de' Cefarini are fome pillars, part of one of the temples belonging to the circus Flaminius, and the only one that re- mains of them. It was dedicated to Apollo, and probably was of the times of the republic, fince the pillars are of tufo, and the building afmall one. The Theatre of Marcellus is one of the mofl beau- tiful remains o£ ancient architecture. What is now to be feen is in the dependencies of the Or- fini palace, towards the Piazza Montanara. There is an order of doric, with an ionic over it, both of half columns ; and probably there were corinthian pilafters above: thefe are the mofl: per feci: columns of the doric and ionic orders. Different accounts fay it held 22,000, 30,000, and 60,000 fpectators. Of the vaft Theatre of Pompey, which is faid to have held 80,000 perfons, and to have been the firft built with ftone, the ruins are but inconfider- able, and fo environed with houfes, as to be diftin- guifhed with difficulty. There is only a little piece of the femicircle, and fome cunei, that ferve now for ftables. After the Antiquities, the Churches and Palaces are the great -objects of a Granger's attention at Rome. M Of l6l ROME. CHURCHES. Of the firft, there are feven which are called Ba~ jilicas, or Royal Churches; the principal of which, for lize and beauty, richnefs and elegance, is S. Peter's, called San Pietro in Vaticano. This noble edifice was above a century in building, and coil forty-five millions of Roman crowns *. The ori- ginal architect was Bramante, and the firft (tone was laid on the 18th of April 1506-, but the great- eft part of the plan was Michelangelo Buonarrotti's, who raifed the enormous cupola. Several fuc- ceeding architects worked after his plan, till Ma- derrii finilhed the towers in 1621. As to Ber- nini's colonnade, it was not begun till forty years after. N The height of S. Peter's, to the top of the crof?, is 435 feet, Englifti meafure; the length on the outride 704, within about 622; the breadth within 291 feet, and the length of the crofs aile or tran- fept 493 feetf . The immenfe area, the circular periftyle or dou- ble colonnade, the two magnificent fountains or jet-d'eaus, and the Egyptian obelifk, all together form an approach to this fine church, which is * It is fuppofed that there has been as much more expended in the fitting up, &c. fince. f The meafures are given very differently in different writ- ers; the above are the moil authentic I could procure, and 1 believe are near the truth. The dimcnfions of St. Paul's at London are — height 340, length 500, breadth 250 feet. trul y Rome. st. peter's. 163 truly fuperb. From the entrance into the area, to the end of the building, is near 1800 feet, above one-third of a mile* Giotto's mofaic, called the Navicclla, is in the portico, oppofite to the great door; and over it is a great bas-relief in marble by Bernini, of Chrift commanding S. Peter to feed his flock: at one end of the portico is an equeftrian ftatue of Con- dan tine, by Bernini, and at the other, of Charle- magne, by CornacchinL On entering the church, the fpectator will re- mark, that the proportions are fo well obferved, that nothing diftinguifhes itfelf fo far above the reft as to hurt the eye : and that the ornaments are in fo good a tafte, that nothing appears pecu- liarly gaudy or fplendid. After a general view, the firft object that attracts notice is the vaft Baldacchino, canopy or pavilion, fupported on four bronze twitted columns, 122 feet high, made of corinthian brafs, taken from the Pantheon, and finely ornamented by Fia- mingo. This covers the altar and confeflion of S.Peter, and is placed immediately under the cen* tre of the great cupola, which is larger than the Pantheon, and is covered entirely with mofaics. Beyond this, the church is terminated by the great Tribune, in* which is the chair of S. Peter, enclofed in gilt bronze, and fupported by the four doctors of the church. The Maufoleum of M 2 Urban 164 rome. st. peter's. Urban VIII. on one fide, is by Bernini; that on the other, of Paul III. is by Guglielmo della Porta. Amidft the variety of fnperb ornaments with which the church of St. Peter is enriched, the mofaics are not the lean: curious. Thefe, which are intended to immortalize the beft performances of the flru: mailers in the art of painting, are exe- cuted very nearS. Peter's, and the whole operation may be feen there *. Beginning on the right hand-, over the porta fanta, which is clofed up, and opened only in the year of jubilee — S. Peter from Ciro Ferri. In the firft chapel, the mofaics cf the cupola are hiftories of the old teftament, fibyls and prophets, from Pietro di Cortona and Ciro Ferri, by Fabio Crifto- fori. In this chapel is the famous Pieta of Michel- angelo, fculptured when he was only twenty-five years old. The frefcos are by L,anfranco. In the little fide chapel is S. Nicola di Bari, in mofaic, by Criftofori. The cupola in the fide aile, oppolite to the fir ft chapel, is in mofaic, from Ciro Ferri, and is one of the beft in the church. * The material is a femivitriried fubftance, which they call fritta, moftly manufactured at Venice, and of about a thoufand different colours : it is cut with a diamond, and then with an iron hammer broken into cubes of different fizes ; .thefe are ranged in drawers, according to their fize and colour. A tfrong plafter is made, in which thefe frittas are immerfed. 6 2. S. Se- rome. st. peter's. 165 2. S. Sebaftian's. Cupola from Pietro di Cor- tona : at the high altar, martyrdom of S. Sebaftian, from Domenichino, by P. P. Criftofori, Cupola oppofite, from Pietro di Cortona. 3. S. S. Sacramento. Cupola from Pietro di Cortona by Abbatini. The rich tabernacle, or clborio of lapis lazuli, after the plan of the temple of Vefta, is by Bernini. The picture of the Tri- nity is by Pietro di Cortona. S. Maurice is by Bernini. On the altar oppofite is a mofaic of the communion of S. Jerom, from Domenichino's famous picture in the church of S. Girolamo, by Criftofori. S. Bafii celebrating mafs after the Greek rite, from Subleyras, by Ghezzi. The martyrdom of S. Procefius and S. Martini- anus, from Valentin, by Criftofori. The martyrdom of S. Erafmus, from Nicoja Poumn, by Criftofori. La Navicella, or S. Peter linking, and Jems lav- ing him, from Lanfranco. The archangel Michael, from Guido. S. Petronilla, from Guercino, by Criftofori. S. Peter raifing Tabitha, from Placido Coftanzi. The cupola of the Clementine chapel is from defigns of Michelangelo, and is covered with ara~ befques and foliage in mofaic; in the angles are four doctors of the church ; thefe and the other mofaics are by Marcello Provenzale from defigns M 3 of 166 rome. st. peter's. of Roncalli. There is an admirable picture at the altar, by Andrea Sacchi. Againft one of the pillars, the death of Ananias and Saphira, by Pietro Adami from Cav. Roncalli. • The famous Transfiguration, from Raffaelle. Chapel of the choir, or Siftine chapel. Aftiim prion of the virgin, with faints, from Pie- tro Bianchi. Chapel of the prefentation : mofaics in the cu- pola, &c. to the honour of the virgin, from defigrts of Carlo Maratti. Prefentation of the virgin, at the high altar, from Romanelli. Portrait of Maria Clementina Sobiefki ; all by Criftoforo. In the baptifmal chapel, or baptiftery, which is the firft on the left hand entering, the church, are three mofaics — S. John baptizing Chrift, in the middle, from Carlo Maratti : that on the right is from Giufeppe Pafiari ; and that on the left from Cav. Procaccini. In this chapel is the ancient baptifmal font, which is a large porphyry farco- phagus. There is a great deal of good modern Sculpture in this church. The befl pieces are the Pieta al- ready mentioned, and a moft excellent bas-relief by Algardi, reprefenting Pope Leo I. going to meet Attila, with S. Peter and S. Paul appearing in the air. Of the numerous fuperb Maufolcums, thofe which have the moft merit are, that of Paul III. by Giacomo della Porta, that of Gregory XIII. by Camilla Rome. sT. peter's. 167 Camillo Rufconi, and thofe of Urban VIII. Alex- ander VII. and the Countefs Matilda, by Bernini, The bed: ftatues are, S. Domenico, by Le Gros, S. Bruno by Michelangelo Slodtz, and particularly S. Andrew bearing his crofs, by Francefco Fia- minga The bionze ftatue of S. Peter fitting, though without merit, attracts all the homage of the faithful; it is faid to have been made by Leo I. From die fcatue of Jupiter Capitolinus. The walls of this famous church are ingrafted with the fined marbles; the pilafters are orna- mented with coloffal children in alto-relievo, and medallions of fome of the ancient Popes, in white marble. The columns in the chapels, except thofe in the arches of the fide ailes, and four of red mar- ble in the tranfept, which came from the forum of Trajan; all belonged to the ancient church, and many of them are very fine ones. In fhort, though none of the wonders of ancient or modern art are to be found here, yet there is much to admire, and very little to blame. The whole of this ftu- pendous edifice is mod highly finilhed, without any gaudinefs or fuperfluity of ornament : and it is fingularly fortunate, that, during more than a century, no doating Pope, or vain Architect, de- firous of outdoing their predecefTors, or envious of the fame which Bramante and Buonarroti had ac- quired, itepped in at fome unlucky moment to mar the whole, M 4 The 1 68 ROME. S. GIOVANNI IN LATERANO. The church of 5. Giovanni in Later ano ought to have had precedence, as the mother church of all chriftendom, where the Pope takes poffeffion of his papal charge. The principal front is by Alef- fandro Galilei, and is pretry well, confidering that the architect was forced to have two enclofed por- ticos, in order that there might be a balcony from whence the Pope was to blefs the people. The infide of the portico is excellent. The reft is by Borromini ; and is a feries of abfurdities in archi- tecture. The nave was divided from the ailes by antique granite columns. Borromini took away every third pillar, and covered the two others on each fide, fo as to change them into piers. Between thefe are twelve niches, in which the twelve apof- tles are placed between columns of verd-antique ; S. Andrew, S. John, S. James, and S. Matthew, by Rufconi, are good ones. S. Thomas and S. Bartholomew are by Le Gros. The Corfini chapel is probably the mod elegant in Europe, both for its proportions, and the difpo- iition of the marbles. The architecture is by Ga- lilei. The picture of the altar is a mofaic after Guido. The beautiful porphyry farcophagus, un- der the ftatue of Clement XII. being found in the Pantheon, is fuppofed to have contained the allies of Agrippa. Before one of the fide altars are fome fluted pil- lars of gilt bronze, antique and very magnificent ; the capitals modern, and well executed. The ROME. BASILICAS. 169 The organ is the larger! in the city, was buiit in 2549, and has thirty-fix flops and pedals. In the facrifty is the Annunciation by Michel* angelo, a crucifix of the fame mafter, and a draw- ing in black chalk of the holy family by Raffaelle- In the cloifter is the tomb of Helena, mother of Conftantine : it is of porphyry with bas-reliefs. Here alfo are two feats of mar mo roffb, which were ufed in the baths. Near this church is the Baptiftery of Conftantine, of an octagon form. On the outfide are two large porphyry columns. The infide is a fort of dome, with two ranges of pillars, one above another; the lower of eight porphyry columns, with different capitals, two Corinthian, the other fix ionic and doric. The ceiling is painted with the hiftory pf S. John, by Andrea Sacchi : below alfo are fede- ral frefcos; the deftru&ion of idolatry by Carlo Maratti, &c. The font in the middle is of por- phyry. The Scala fanta is oppofite to this church ; it confifts of twenty-eight marble fteps, faid to be brought from Pilate's palace at Jerufalem : and in the fpacious area before it Hands a great Egyp- tian obelifk. The papal palace here is converted into an hof- pital or confervatory for girls, who are taught dif- ferent forts of work. S. Maria Magglore is on the higheft part of the Efquiline hill. The front was built at the expence of 1JO ROME. BASILICAS. of Benedict XIV. from defigns of Cavalier Fuga, in a very bad tafte. The nave is fupportcd by forty antique columns of greek marble; they are ionic, and belonged to the temple of Juno Lu- cina. The roof is flat, and gilt with.the firft gold which came from Peru. The arch which fepa- ratcs the nave from the choir is covered with mo- fates of the fifth century; at the end of the choir are other mofaics of 1289; and in the vefiibule is a mofaic of God, accompanied with many figures, by Gaddo Gaddi. The chapel of Sixtns V. by Fontana, is a heap of abfurdities. Oppofite to it is that of Paul V. immenfely rich in jafper, oriental alabaftcr, lapis lazuli, agate, amethyft, &c. but fo heaped toge- ther as to hurt the eye. The Sforza chapel is by Michelangelo. And in the church are fome monuments by Gngliclmo clella Porta and Algardr. The high altar is a large antique farcophagus of porphyry. The paintings are by Guido. In the fquare is one of the columns, belonging to the ancient famous temple of peace ; it is fluted and very beautiful, but has been repaired. And behind the choir is a plain obeliik. S. Paolo fuori, or nella via OJtienfi, is a full mile from the gate, and if not built by Conftantine, is certainly as old as Theodofius. There are two ailes on each fide of the nave. The roof is of wood, the beams of an immenfe length, and joined by ROME. BASILICAS. I7I by iron cramps : this church is very ugly, and like a huge uncomfortable barn; it deferves, however, the attention of the curious, on account of the an- cient columns and mofaics. Of the firft, there are not lefs than 140; 34 of porphyry, 20 of pavonazza marble from the mau- foleum of Hadrian, with rich corinthian capitals; the reft of Greek white or dove-coloured marble, or granite. The pavement is a chaos of precious marbles, and inferiptions. Over the arch of the high altar is an ancient mofaic, reprefenting Chrirt in the midft of the twenty-four elders of the apoca- lypfe, made at the coft of Placidia Galla. Round the middle ailc, above the pillars, are portraits of all the Popes, from S. Peter to Pius VI. The three gates are of brafs, with hiftorical fubje6ls on them : they were made at Conftantinople in the year 1070; and are faid to have been plated with filver. The Convent belongs to the Benedictines. S. Lorenzo fuori le mura is a very old church, with an open portico, and four twifted columns. Three narrow ailes within, fupported by eleven columns on each fide. The pavement is in mo- faic ; and there are two pulpits of white marble, with porphyry, ferpentine and mofaic, coeval with the church, which is a model of the primitive form. There are two ancient farcophagi of marble; one with grapes, and the other with the ceremonies of marriage, in baffo-rclievo. 5 S. Croce I72 ROME. BASILICAS. S. Croce in Gerufalemme has been repaired and adorned by Benedict XIV. It has very little re- markable, except fome fine ancient pillars of gra- nite. The ftatue of S. Helena was doubtlefs a Juno, and very dexteroully metamorphofed into a faint. The frefcos of the tribuna are by Pintu- ricchio. The chapel where the holy earth is de- pofited has frefcos by Pomerancia, and rriofaics by Peruzzi. In the gallery leading to the facrifty are three pictures by Rubens. S. Sebaftiano, a mile without the porta Capena, on the Appian way. The portico is fupported by fix antique granite columns of the ionic order. The only thing obfervable in this church is a cumbent ftatue of S. Sebaftian, fuppofed to be juft (hot to death : it is by Algardi's fcholar, Gior- getti, who was Bernini's matter. Under this church are the Catacombs. They are very narrow in comparifon with thofe at Na- ples, but are commonly faid to extend forty miles. To make this out they muft meafure all the branches, and there is a difpolition in mankind to lengthen out in imagination all thefe dark fubterraneous paffages. They were originally quarries of puzzo- lana, then ferved for burial places of the heathens, and afterwards of the Chriftians. Othev ROME. CHURCHES. 173 Other Churches are — S. Agnefe on Piazza Navona ; begun by Rai- naldi, but finifhed by Borrornini : the front and dome are by him. It is one of the moft adorned in Rome, particularly with modern fculpture, among which the moft remarkable is a bas-relief of the Saint, naked, except that fhe is covered with her hair, by Algardi. This is in the fouterreins, which are faid to have been the Lupanaria, whither S. Agnes was dragged in order to be defiled, had not her chaflity been miraculoufly preferved. . S. Agnefe fuori delle mura^ is about a mile from the city, by the porta Via, It was built in the lower ages, and is now almoft under ground. Some of the columns are beautiful, but ill dif- pofed. There are feveral of granite, breccia, and two of pavonazza marble. Four porphyry pillars fupport the great altar, and are efteemed the fined in or about Rome. In a little chapel is a bull: in white marble of our Saviour, by Michelangelo; it is a maftcr-piece for character, and has ferved as a model to fculptors. Clofe to the church of S. Agnefe is a Rotonda, which probably was the burying place of S. Con- ftantia. It is now called the church of S. Cqftanza, arid is commonly fuppofed to have been a temple of Bacchus, becaufe the farcophagus has carvings on it, of children playing with bunches of grapes, and Iy4 ROME. CHURCHES. and there are allufions to Bacchus in the mofaics 2 but at that time they frequently mixed heathen with chriftian ornaments, were not nice about the pro- priety of them, and borrowed from other build- ings at random. The dome is fupported by twen- ty-four granite columns, of different fizes, with poor capitals. The porphyry farcophagus is the largeft about Rome (7 feet long, 5 broad, and 3 feet 10 inches high), but ill wrought, and by no means elegant. The work on farcophagi is indeed feldom good, becaufe the ufe of them was discon- tinued from the time of Sylla till after the Anto- nines ; that is, during the whole reign, of fine fculpture. S.Agofiino is remarkable for a painting in oil of the prophet Ifaiah, as large as life, by Raffaelle : it is in his laft manner, and in a very bold ftyle, but the colouring is almoft gone. There is alfo the coronation of the Virgin by God and Chrift in heaven ; S. Auguftin and S. Guglielmo are looking up from below : one of Lanfranco's beft pictures. In the convent is the Angelica library, lately augmented by that of Cardinal Parnonei, and rec- koned one of the largeft: in Rome. $. Andrea del Ncvizhi/o, a beautiful little church by Bernini. In the chapel of Staniflaus Kofka i9 a picture of S. Francis adoring the virgin, by Carlo Maratti : the two columns of the altar arc of the bed oriental alabaflcr. — In S. Staniflaus's chamber, now ROME. CHURCHES. 175 now converted into an oratory, is an admirable ftatue of this faint expiring, by Le Gros. S. An- drew adoring the crofs, by Andrea Sacchi. A holy family, by Giulio Romano from Raffaelle. S. Andrea delta Valle, by Carlo Maderni. The great cupola is painted by Lanfranco : four evan- gelifts in the angles, with great force of colouring, by Domenichino. The tribuna is by him and Calabrefe. The Strozzi chapel was defigned and fitted up by Michelangelo. 5. BartohmmeO) on the iiland in the Tiber, built on the ruins of a temple to Efculapius, where his ftatue was found, which is now in the Farnefe gar- dens. Here is an antique porphyry farcophagus under the high altar, and four porphyry columns on it : the other columns alfo are antique. In the fecond chapel on the right are paintings by Ant. Carracci. S Bibiana. The ftatue of that Saint, by Ber- nini ; the chafteft of his works, and without flutter. Her body is faid to repofe in the fin eft piece of oriental alabafter in Rome it feems to have been a bath. The frefco paintings, by Pietro da Cor- tona and his fcholar Ciampelli have little merit. S. Carlo a catendrL by Rofato Rofati ; the front by Soria. The proceflion of S. Carlo Borromeo in the plague of Milan, at the high altar, is by Pietro da Cortona. S. Carlo, a frefco^ behind it, by 1^6 ROME, CHURCHES. by Guido. The tribuna, by Lanfranco. The annunciation, in the firft chapel on the right, is aifo by him. The cardinal virtues in the angles of the cupola, by Domenichino. The death of S. Anne, by Andrea Sacchi. S. Carlo al Corfo is by Lunghi. The cupola is one of the beft in Rome, but the front is mifer- able. At the high altar is a picture by Carlo Maratti, of the virgin and child, S. Carlo and S. Ambrogio. There is alio a mofaic, from a picture of his, in the church of S. Maria del po- polo. & Cecilia hi trajlevere, rich in agates and mar- bles. At the high altar are four columns of nero e bianco antico. The executioner cutting off S. Ce- cilia's head is by Guido. Annibale Carracci has painted the virgin Mary in a fmall round. The elegant cumbent ftatue of S. Cecilia is by Stefano Maderni. S. Ckmente, one of the firft churches in Rome. Some granite columns in front : behind a fmall, but handfome court, with an arcade of granite columns, and bad ionic capitals. Within three ailes, with granite columns of all kinds. As at S. Lorenzo, fo here, a place raifed in the body of the church for a pulpit and defk ; and inclofed by a marble rail curiouily wrought. . Hence you go up feveral fteps to the choir; that is, a deep recefs ending in the fegment of a circle, and the cove above &.0ME. CHURCHES. IJJ above it in old mofaic. The high altar is fup- ported by four porphyry columns : the pavement is all of faracen mofaic. In the chapel of the paf- lion is the hiftory of S. Catharine, painted by Ma- faccio. The tomb of Cardinal Roverella is an an- cient farcophagus of white marble. S. Cqftanza, fee S. Agnefe fuorh S. Crifogono or Grifogono in traftevere, has twenty- two granite columns of different fizes from the naumachia of Auguftus, and the baths of Severus; two very large porphyry columns, and four of oriental alabafter. Guercino has painted the af- cenfion of S. Crifogono in the middle of the ceiling. 5. Eufebio. The ceiling finely painted in frefco, by Mengs, with the apotheciis of the titular faint. S. Francefco a Ripa. Chrift dead, with the virgin and magdalen lamenting over him, and S. Francis with two little angels ; by Annibale Carracci. II Geju t built from defigns of Vignola, and finifhed ,by Giacomo della Porta. The altar of S. Ignatius is rich and elegant beyond defcription : the quantities of lapis lazuli, porphyry, gilt bronze^ and the mod precious marbles, which are ufed about it, are prodigious and yet they are put to- gether fo as not to offend the eye. The pillars that fupport it are entirely of I lapis lazuli fluted N with 178 ROME. CHURCHES. with gilt bronze. Among the ftatues, that of re- ligion, by Le Gros, has great merit. The fta- tue of S. Ignatius, bigger than life, is of maffive filver. S. Giovanni Battijia de Fiorenlini, terminates the fir ada Giulia, and was built from the defigns of Giacomo della Porta : the front is by Galilei, and is elegant, with two orders of corinthian three- quarter columns, all of Tivertine {tone : within it is old, but repaired : the doors have very chafte entablatures. The high altar was defigned by Pie- trodaCortona, but finifhed after his death by Giro Ferri. The painting of S. Jerom is by Santi di Tito — that of the faints Cofmo and Damiano is by Salvator Rofa— S. Francis is alfo by Santi diTito: the frefcos by Niccolo Pomerancia. S. Giovanni Evangelijia de Bolognefi. S. John the evangelift, and S. Petronius bifhop of Bologn3, with the virgin and Chrift above, and below a charming group of little boys, playing with the mitre; by Domenichino : little inferior to his fa- mous S. Jerom. S. S. Giovanni e Paolo is an ancient church, di- vided into three ailes by thirty granite columns : there are two lions of porphyry at the gate, and under the altar of S. Saturninus a fine urn of por- phyry. Here are mofaic pavements of the 1 ith or 1 2th century. S. Girolamo ROME. CHURCHES. I79 8, Girolamo delta carltL S. Jerom dying, and receiving the communion ; by Domenichino ; efteemed one of the four firft pictures in Rome. & Giufeppe : a bad front, fmall and handfome within. The nativity, by Carlo Maratti. — Under this church is an ancient Roman prifon, built of very large {tones of Piperino, by Tullus Hoftili is, enlarged by Ancus Marthas; and called il carcere Mamertino, or the prifon of S. Peter, who is faid to have been confined here : it has a fine fpring, which they tell you iffued forth miraculoufly to enable the apoftle to baptize the gaolers and forty- feven other perfons. A ftaircafe now leads down to the dungeon from the church; and there is a hole into a dungeon under the other, where Ju- gurtha ended his days : though this is now thirty feet below the furface, it does not follow that it was anciently under ground, the foil of the city having been fo much raifed. " Felicia dicas " Tempora, quse quondam fub regibus atque tri- " bunis " Viderunt uno contentam carcere Romam." Juvenal. S. Giufeppe a capo le cafe. The virgin and the an- gel waking Jofeph, by Andrea Sacchi ; at the high altar, S. Therefa, by Lanfranco. N 2 5. QregoriG l80 ROME. CI1URCHE3. 5". Gregorio magno, on monte Celio, remarkable /or the comprehenfive view it takes in of almoft all the principal ruins and antiquities. The church is built on the very foundation of a Patrician houfe, and retains the form of it. S. Gregory between two angels, and little angels hovering above, by Annibale Caracci ! In the chapel of S. Andrea adjoining, are the two trial pieces in frefco of his fcholars Guido and Domenichino. That of Guido is on the left, and reprefents S. Andrew go- ing to martyrdom. Domenichino has painted the flagellation of the fame Saint. — In the chapel of S. Silvia, Guido has painted a concert of angels on the ceiling. The titular Saint is painted by John Parker, an Englimman. S. Ignazio is a very magnificent church, and a handfome piece of architecture within. Domeni- chino, among other artifts, gave plans for it, and they felec~ted what feemed beft. The front is by Algardi. The two altars in the crofs are rich : the bas-relief (in the Lancelotti chapel) of S. Luigi Gonzaga is one of Le Gros's befl works. The ceiling of the nave is by the famous Jefuit Pozzi : it reprefents the apotheofis of S. Ignatius ; and from his head iflue rays, illuminating the four parts of the world ; with all its faults it pro- duces a great effect, owing to the juftnefs of the perfpective. S. IfiJoro HOME. CHURCHES. l8l & Ifidoro. Two chapels painted entirely by Carlo Maratti. S. Ifidore at the high altar is by Andrea Sacchi. The virgin and child in the cha- pel next to this is by Carlo Maratti, and one of his beft compofitions. & Lorenzo in Lucina : over the high altar, a cru- cifix, by Guido, efteemed the beft in Rome. A dying nun, by Benefiali. Nicola Pouffinis buried here. S, Luigi de Francefi is handfomely fitted up with different marbles, and gilt ftucco. The front is by Giacomo della Porta. At the high altar is an excellent affumption, by the elder Bafian. In the firft chapel on the right, S. Andrew and S. John Baptift, by Lanfranco. In the fecond, a copy by Guido, of RafTaelle's famous picture of S. Cecilia at Bologna. The ftory of S. Cecilia is painted on the walls by Domenichino. S. Matthew, and the fides of the chapel next the high altar, are by Caravaggio. — In the Sacrifty is a large pic- ture, by John Miel; and a fmall holy family, by Corregio. S. Marco, adjoining to the palace of the fame name, in which the Venetian ambaftador refides, contains the following paintings among others. The frefcos of the middle aile, by Francefco Mola and others. The picture of the firft altar, by Palma, and the fides by Tintoretto. The third, by Carlo Maratti — the adoration of the Magi, a much-ad- N 3 mired iSz ROME. CHURCHES. mired picture. S. Mark, in the chapel of the fa- crament, is by Pietro Perugino-, the other paint- ings, as alio the tribuna, by Borgognone ; but the evangelifr in the middle, by Romanelli. The pictures of the two altars beyond the Sacrifty are by Niola. The third by Ciro Ferri : but S. John and S. Mark by Pietro Perugino, and the paintings on the fides by Carlo Maratti. In the chapel of the holy virgin, the nativity of the virgin, by Giov. Franc. Bolognefe. The annunciation, by Alberti. The flight into Egypt, and the affump- tion, by AlerTandro Bolognefe. S. Maria degli Angeli is the nobleft church in Rome next to S. Peter's, made out of Diocletian's therma', by Michelangelo. It was the room in which the youth performed the exercifes in bad weather. The roof and eight granite columns, with their capitals and entablature, are ancient; the columns at leaft forty feet high, and feem to ftand in the fame place they anciently did : the four angular ones are corinthian, and the others compofite. The church is nearly in form of a Greek crofs. Benedict XIV. fitted it up under the direction of Vanvitelli, and removed hither fome pictures from S. Peter's, which were dif- placed to make room for the mofaics. — S. Jerom, by Muziani. The fall of Simon Magus, by Pom- peio Battoni. The baptiim of Chrilt, by Carlo Maratti. The martyrdom of S. Sebaftian, by , Domenichino. ROME. CHURCHES. 183 Pomenichino. S. Bafii, or the Greek mn r s, by Subleyras. S. Peter r King Tabitha, by Baglioni. Bianchini traced a meridian line upon the pave- ment. On each fide of the entrance, where anciently was an hypocauft, are the tombs of Carlo Maratti and Salvator Rofa. S. Maria delF anima. In the facrifty, a picture by Giulio Romano, wherein S. John prefents S. Rocco to the virgin and (Thrift ; S. Mark is below with the lion ; angels above : architecture and fmall figures in the back ground. The ceiling by Romanelli. There are paintings by Salviati and others in the church : and two monuments with boy angels chifelled by Fiamingo. S. Maria in Araceli is fituated on very high ground near the Capitol, doubtlefs on the fpot where flood the temple of Jupiter Capitolinus. The afcent to it is by eighty marble fteps, all an- cient. The granite columns which fupport the nave are common ; but there are two of white marble, in the lower part of the church, which probably were within the ancient temple. Here are many ancient monuments, and a great number of chapels, adorned with marbles, fculptures, and paintings. At the high altar is one of S. Luke's virgins, as they are called ; and oppofite to it, in the choir, is a picture by RafTaelle, which fome fay- is only a copy. In one of the chapels are the N 4 converfion 184 ROME. CHURCHES, converfion and death of S. Margaret, by Bene- fiali. «S. Maria in Campitelli is remarkable for a crofs of alabafter over the high altar, appearing of the colour of fire. It was cut out of a column found in the ruins of Livia's portico. Concezzione di Maria Vergine Hi Cappucini, in Pi- azza Barberini. — In this church are fome good ancient ionic columns. Over the door is Giotto's carton for the mofaic at S. Peter's. The concep- tion at the high altar, and the nativity of Chrift, both by Lanfranco. S. Antonio raifing a dead body ; the virgin with a bifhop, and four others, not very good, by Andrea Sacchi. S. Francis fup- ported by an angel, by Domenichino. But the two beft pictures are, the archangel Michael, by Guido and Saul reftored to fight, by Pietro da Cortona. & Maria di Loreto. A beautiful ftatue of S. Su- fanna, by Fiamingo. S. Maria Maddalena, in the Corfo. The Mag- dalen penitent, by Guercino. & Maria ad martyres, commonly called la Rotonda. See Pantheon among the Antiquities. S. Maria fopra Minerva, fo called from its being built where there was a temple dedicated to Mi- nerva by Pompey. The altar picture in the Aldo- brandini chapel is the laft work of Baroccio. In a fmall chapel is a crucifix painted by Giotto, on wood. ROME. CHURCHES. 1 85 wood. But the flatue of Chrift holding his crofs, by Michelangelo Buonarroti, is the greateft obje& of curiofity here. S. Maria di monte fanto, on the Piazza del Po- polo : the firfl chapel on the right is entirely painted by Salvator Rofa. In two other chapels, the holy family, and S. Francis with S. Roch praying to the virgin, both by Carlo Maratti. In the Sacrifty, the virgin with the infant Jefus, by Baciccio, and other paintings by him and Chiari. S. Maria in Navicella, fo called from an an- tique fhip in marble, in the area before it, has eighteen curious columns of granite, and two of porphyry. The frieze is painted by Giulio Ro- mano and Perino del Vaga. S. Maria dell* orto built from defigns of Giulio Romano ; the front by Martino Lunghi. Paint- ings—the Vifitation, by Federigo Zuccheri. The nativity, by Taddeo Zuccheri. The annuncia- tion, frefco, by the fame, &c. S. Maria delta Pace; fo called from its being creeled by Sixtus V. upon peace being reflored to Italy in 1482. Here are frefcos of the prophets and fibyls, by RafFaelle, almoft effaced. iS. Maria del Popolo. The mofl; remarkable thing here is a ftatue of Jonas (landing on the fifh, exe- cuted by Lorenzetto from a defign by RafFaelle ; who himfelf, as they fay, attended every ftroke of the chifel. The three otner flatues, one by Lo- renzetto, iS6 ROME. CHURCHES. renzetto, and two by Bernini, are far inferior. The chapel in which they are was made by Balta- zare di Perugia, trom a plan of Raffaelle's : the altar picture by Scbaftiano del Piombo. In the firft chapel on the right is a praefepe or nativity, by Pinturicchio. In the fecond, the conception of the virgin, with four faints, by Carlo Maratti. S. Auguftin, with the virgin, in the third, is by Pinturicchio. The aflumption of the virgin, in the chapel next the high altar, on the other fide, is partly by Annibale Carracci, and partly by Albani : and the martyrdom of S. Peter, as alfo the converfion of S. Paul, are by Caravaggio. At the eaft end are fome elegant architectural orna- ments, by Sanfovino. & Maria in fcalacceli is an octagon, by Vignola. Under it is an opening to the catacombs: and juft by is the place where S. Paul is fuppofed to have been martyred. Here they have built a pretty little church, called alle ire Fontane, becaufe within it are three fountains which fprung up, fay they, where the head of the faint took fo many bounds, after it was cut off. Thefe fountains are adorned with fix columns of numidian marble, and a bull of S. Paul on each. There is a picture of the martyrdom of S. Peter, by Guido : and fome mofaics in the tribnna. S. Maria in Trajievere has twenty-three or twenty- four columns of granite of different lizes. The mofaics ROME. CHURCHES; 187 mofaics of the tribunal a ; of the 12th century, but have been repaired by Cavaltini, On the lafl: pilafter to the left is a piece of ancient mofaic ; and underneath, a tito relief in marbie, by Buonarroti, The affnmption of the virgin, on the ceiling, is by Domenichino. There is a picture of S. John Baptift by Antonio Carracci, and fome other paint- ings. Lanfranco ana Giro Ferri are buried here. S. Maria in vall/cella, a handfome fhel! ; the dome finely executed, and well lighted; painted by Luca Giordano; the vault of the nave by Pietro da Cortona. Of the pictures the principal are, the entombing of Chrift, by Michel' Angelo da Caravaggio. The virgin, Chrift, S.Carlo, S. Ig- nazio, and Angels, by Carlo Maratti. S. Filippo Neri, by Guido. Three pictures at the high altar, by Rubens. The prefentation of the virgin, and the virltation, both by Baroccio. The Annunci- ation, by Paffignani. — In the Sacrifty, the ftatue of S. Filippo Neri, and his buft over the door, are by Algardi, and the ceiling is by Pietro da Cor- tona. The Convent has a considerable Library, with many manufcripts. S. Maria in via lata, dellgned by Pietro da Cor- tona. «S. Maria della viitoria, built at the expence of the catholic powers, to {how the triumph of popery in the death of Guftavus Adolphus. Maderni 4 was 1 88 ROME. CHURCHES. was the architect: the front is by Giov. Battifia Soria, and the infide is by Bernini. The archi- tecture is better than in mod of the churches ; but within it is overcharged with rich marbles, lapis lazuli, he. without tafte. — Paintings are, the vir- gin, Chrift, and S. Francis, by Domenichino. The Trinity, by Guercino, &;c. The mod re- markable thing in this church is S. Terefa in ec- ftafy, with an angel pointing an arrow at her breaft; marble group, by Bernini. The figures much twifted, and the drapery fluttering. 5. Martina e S. Luca, belonging to the academy of painters, is built after the deiigns of Pietro da Cortona. In the apartments of the academy of S. Luke, adjoining to the church, is a collection of pic- tures *. S. S. Martlno e Silvejiro a i nwnti, {aid to be built on the ruins of Titus's baths. It is full of ancient granite * The principal of thefe are — In the firjl room. Bertha fpinning. Three old bearded heads, by Francefco Mola. Repofe of the holy family, by Baroccio. A pieta, by Giufeppe Chiari. Six landfcapes, by Orizonte. .Appearance of the angels to the fliephcrds, by Giacomo Baf- fano. Two ROME. CHURCHES. tSg granite and cipolline columns, but the greateft cu- riofities here are many landfcapes, flight but in a good tafle, all by Gafpar Pouffin, except two next the altar of S. Maria Maddalena de' Pazzi, which were painted by Giov. Franc. Grimaldi da Bologna. Nicola Pouffin painted the figures in fome, and Pietro Tefta in others. S. Niccoh Two landfcapes ; in one of them a view of Tivoli ; by Salvator Rofa. Mad cat's heads ; by the fame. Chrift with the two difciples at Emmaus. The magdalen anointing the feet of Jefus. Both by Benedetto Luti. S. Luke painting the virgin and Chrift ; by Raffaelle. This was in the church, and is much damaged : a copy is put there in its room. Mater dolorofa ; by Guido. l^tree mariners ; by Vernet. Two ruins of Rome ; by Paolo Pannini. A man with a dog and goats ; by Rofa di Tivoli. In the fecond room* Cupid with a bird, by Guido. Two landfcapes, by Poumn. Render to Ca^far, &c; by Tiziano : the fame as in the Pittir palace at Florence. Sr Jerom ; by Salvator Rofa. Cattle, with figures and ruins, by Berghem. The miracle of the bloody hoft, commonly called the miracle of Bolfenaj by Trevifani. A head ; by Guercino. In the third room, A fine large cattle-piece, with a landfcape and ruined buildings ; by Berghem. A little 190 ROME. CHURCHES. S. Niccolo in carcere, fo called becaufe it was the prifon, wherein patted the celebrated fcenc, call- ed the Roman charity. It has nothing ancient except the two columns in front, and a farco- phagus of black porphyry, with two heads of Egyptian women on it in relievo. S. Onofrio, at the extremity of the Janiculum, has fome good paintings. Three hiftories of S. Jcrom, and other pieces; by Domenichino. A little boy's head, in a round ; by Tiziano. Samfon pulling down the temple of Dagon ; by Solimene* Ruins of Rome ; by Pannini. Sufanna and the elders ; by Paolo Veronefe. Hope ; by Angelica KaufFman. A woman's head with flowers ; by Cignani. A marine ; by Vernet. A drawing ; by Salvator Rofa. The flagellation of Chrift — and Chrift; carrying his crofs ; both by Trevifani. This Academy was founded in the fixteenth century, by Muziano; its reputation was raifed in the laft, by Pietro da Cortona; and it received a confiderable encouragement in the prefent, by the prizes inftituted by Clement XI. On the 1 8th of September thefe prizes are deftributed in the large hall of the Capitol; on which occafion it is richly hung and illuminated. Many Cardinals, and other perfons of confideration, are prefent : the Arcadians take their places in the front row ; and the members of the Academy in the fecond. Some pieces of mufic are performed ; an ora- tion is delivered ; fonnets are repeated by the Arcadians ; and the prizes, which are lilver medals, are distributed by the Cardinals . Our ROME, CHURCHES. 191 Our Lady of Loretto ; by Annibale Carracci. Barclay, Taflb, and Aleffandro Guido, are buried in this church : and there is the portrait of the fecond in mofaic. S. Pietro in career e ; fee S. Giufeppe. S. Pietro in Montorio is a fmall old church, which would not deferve notice, were it not for the Transfiguration, by RarTaelle, generally al- lowed to be the firft eafel painting in the world. Over the firft altar on the right is the fcourging of .our Lord, by Sebaftiano del Piombo. The lituation of the church, and convent of Francif- cans, to which it belongs, is airy and good, on the top of the Janiculum. In the court of the convent is the round doric temple of Bramante, built of Tivertine ftone, and furrounded by a portico of fixteen columns of oriental granite, with marble bafes and capitals. For elegance and fimplicity, it is equal to any thing we know of antiquity ; and affords a moft beautiful fpecimen of a colonnade and entablature of the doric order. S. Peter, they fay, fuffered martyrdom here. S. Pietro in vincoli. The monument of Pope Julius II. by Michelangelo. In the upper part, the Pope is leaning on a farcophagus, between two of the cardinal virtues : in the lower part is the famous ftatue of Mofes, between the other two cardinal virtues. The I92 ROME. CHURCHES. The paintings are — S. Peter delivered out of prifon ; Domenichino. S. John, S. Auguftin, S. Margaret, S. Peter delivered out of prifon, and the portrait of Car- dinal Margotti ; all by Guercino. An ancient painting by Pollaiolo, with his tomb and buft. The tcmb alfo of Giulio Clovio, the miniature painter or illuminator, is here. S. Prqffede, an ancient church, in which are four antique columns of white marble, fluted. Before the chief altar is a ciborio fupported by four porphyry columns, joined to pilafters of giallo- antico. In one of the chapels is a column, brought by one of the Colonna family from the holy land in 1223, pretended to be that to which our Sa- viour was tied for flagellation. There are alfo fome curious pillars of black and white granite, of Serpentino nero antico, and oriental alabafler. In 5. Romualdo is the famous picture by Andrea Sacchi, of S. Romualdo fitting, with other Ca- maldules (landing. This is efleemed one of the four firft paintings in Rome. S. Sabina, on the top of the Aventine hill, was built about the fourth century, on the ruins of the temple of Juno, of which twenty-four fluted Co- rinthian columns {till exift, and fupport the roof. The upper part of the church is incrufted with marble : there is much verd- antique, porphyry and ROME. CHURCHES. I93 and Terpentine; and the infide of the arches is covered with fmall pieces of white marble, well joined by little cramps of iron. On the outride of the church are two large columns of black Egyp- tian granite ; four twifted columns, &c> A black (tone of a fpheroid form is preferved here, with a formal inscription, telling you how the Devil threw it at S. Dominic one night to frighten him from his prayers. It is of bafalt, and is nothing but an ancient weight. On one of the altars there is a picture by Saffo- Ferrata, of the virgin and Chrift with faints and angels. There are alfo paintings by Federigo and Taddeo Zuccheri. This church, and that of S. Aleffio or Alexis, and the Priory of Malta, are finely fituated for a view of Rome in its whole extent. The church of La Sapienza is in a lingular ftyle of architecture, by Borromini. On the outfide it is a deep concave, with a wretched cupola; within a fort of octagon, with a fu gar-loaf dome. At the altar is a picture of S. Ivo, advocate of the poor, by Pietro da Cortona ; the bottom by Ciro Ferri. S. Silvejlro a monte Cavallo. Four famous tondi in frefco, by Domenichino. The fubjects— 1. Judith and Holofernes. 2. Ahafuerus and Either. 3. David dancing before the ark. 4. So- lomon on his throne, with Bathlheba. O S. Joho 194- ROME. CHURCHES. S. John the evangelift and Mary Magdalen, by Algardi. Defcent of the Holy Ghoft; by GiacomoPalma. In the chapel of the Magdalen, paintings by Polidoro da Caravaggio and Cav. d'Arpino. Near the great door is the monument of Cardi- nal Bentivoglio. The Convent is handfome, has pleafant ' gar- dens, and a fine library . S. Tomafo, dedicated not to the incredulous apoftle, but the turbulent archbifhop of Canter- bury. They fay this church was originally dedi- cated to the Trinity by Offa in 630 ; and that he built an hofpital for Englifh pilgrims adjoining to it. Saint Thomas a Becket having lived here .when he was at Rome, the Trinity was turned out, and the church was dedicated to him. The hof- pital alfo was converted into a college by Gregory XIII, and Cardinal Norfolk rebuilt it in 1575. God the Father, with Chrift dead in his bofom, is painted over the high altar ; by Durand Al- bert!. Pomerancia has painted feveral Englifh martyrs in frefc®. In the Hall are portraits of martyrs in the time of Henry VIII. and Elifabeth. Trinita de monti, on the Pincian hill, with the Convent of French Minims adjoining, is finely fituated near the Villa Medici. The afcent to it 6 is ROME. CHTJRCHES* PALACES. I95 is by a prodigious flight of fteps, from the Piazza di Spagna. In this church is the famous defcent from the crofs, by Daniele di Voiterra ; and the only pic- ture by him on a large fcate. It is in frefco, and much damaged. Trinita de pellegrini. A capital piclure of the Trinity, by Guido. God {lands in heaven, fup- porting Chrift on the crofs : and below are two angels adoring it. Palaces. The Capitol, now called il Campidoglio, is in a high fltuation ; and the afcent to it is by a noble flight of fteps. At the foot of them are two fine Egyptian lionefTes in bafalt, from the baths of Agrippa. In the area before the building are co- lofTal flatues of Caius and Lucius, nephews of Auguftus. The trophies of Marius, as they are called, but more probably of Trajan. Two flatues called the fons of Conftantine. A Roman mile- flone, found one mile from the old porta Capena; a proof that they reckoned from the gates, and not from the forum. The pillar which anfwers to this is modern. In the middle of the area is. the fine equeflrian flatue of Marcus Aurelius, bigger than life, of corinthian brafs, anciently gilt. O 2 The 196 HOME. CAPITOL^ The building confifts of a centre and two wings, forming three fides of this area; all of ftucco, and making a pretty appearance. The architect Mi- chelangelo Buonaroti. The Senator of Rome in- habits the centre, and the afcent to it is truly noble. The right wing contains the famous Mu- feum and in the left is the palace of the Confer- vators, a cabinet of pictures *, &c. The ancient Capitol fronted towards the arch of Severus : the foundations * PiSlures in the Gallery, at Capitol. Abraham and Hagar, by Mola. Adoration of the Magi, by Scarfellini of Ferrara. Triumph of Flora, by Nicola Pouflin. S. John, by Guercino. Ifaac efpoufing Rebecca, and Sarah {landing by : Ciro Fern. Romulus and Remus fucking the wolf ; by Rubens. The nativity, by Carracci. Virgin and child fleeping, and three Angels ; by Pietro da Cortona Sibyl, by Guercino. S. Sebaftian, by Guido. The fame, by Ann. Carracci. A man and dog, by one of the Carraccis. Bacchus and Ariadne, by Guido, or after him. Virgin, child, and two other figures, and a S. Cecilia ; by Ann. Carracci, Naked Venus, by Tiziano. Portrait of Guido, by himfelf, when young. Slaves with the wild beafts in the Colifeum, by Carracci. An old foldier, repofing — and an old witch ; by Salvator Rofa. David and Nathan, by Bonata. Young ROME. CAPITOL.^ 197 foundations (Capitoli immobile faxum) are ftill vifi- ble in that part which is oppofite to the temple of Jupiter Capitolinus ; but much more fo on the other iide, towards the temple of Concord, in a court belonging to Santa Maria della confolazione : I mall not undertake to determine whether a man would break his neck by a fall from the Tar- peian rock : the height is now 58 or 60 feet per- pendicular, and the ground below is probably raifed 20 feet. Going up to the central building is a fountain, with a flatue of Roma triumph ans in porphyry, brought from Cori, one of the oldeft towns of La- tium : it has an elegant bas relief of a weeping province, Young man and gypfey, by M. A. Caravaggio. Portrait of Michelangelo Buonarroti, by Andrea del Sarto. Holy family and S. Francis, by Ann. Carracci. The pool of Bethefda, by Domenichin©. Fortune flying over the globe, with a Cupid after her ; by Guido. Battle of Alexander with Darius, by Pietro da Cortona. The Virgin triumphant, with two biihops and four faints ; by Gaudentio di Ferrara. The Virgin with Chrift ftanding naked, by Pictro Perugino. The Virgin lining with Chrift in her lap. The Virgin with Chrift and Saints, large ; over a door : by Pietro Perugino. S. Jerom receiving the communion— and a Charity, both by Annibale Carracci. The prefentation of Chrift in the temple, by Fra. Bartolommeo. Chrift with the woman taken in adultery, by Gaudentio di Ferrara. §. JohnBaptift, naked, with thecrofs; Salviati. O 3 Landfcape, I98 ROME. CAPITOL. province, on the ^edeftal. On each fide are the rivers Nile and Tiber, in Greek marble. In the apartments above there is a room painted in frefco by Cavalier d'Arpino ; in fix pieces, reprefenting the firfr. great events of the Roman hjftory. The next room is painted by Tommafo Laureti : and here are bufts of Julius Casfar, Hadrian, Caracalla, &rc. On two columns of verd-antique, the head of Severns and another. The wolf, with Romulus and Remus, in white marble. In the antichamber next to this, the frieze is painted in frefco by Vol- terrano : here is the famous wolf in bronze, fup- pofed to be that which was (truck with lightning at the death of Julius Caefar ; the fhepherd Cneius Marti us extract ing a thorn from his foot, and one of the Camilli, ftatues in bronze ; the bull: of Lucius Junius Brutus, fon of Marcus. In the fourth room are the Fafti Confulares : over the door the head of Mithridates in bafTbrilievo, a Veftal and Diana. In the fifth room are feveral bufts — Sappho, Socrates, &c. A painting of the holy family, by Giulio Romano. In the Stanza dell' Ercole, Annibale Carracci has painted in frefco the exploits of Scipio in the frieze. Here are ftatues and bufts of Appius Claudius, Cicero, Landfcape, with Hercules and a lion, by Domenichino. Virgin, Chrift, and two angels; Andr. del Sarto. Chrift with the adulterefs, a pharifee, and two other heads ; by the fame. Slaughter of the Innocents, by Polembourg. Virgil, ROME. CAPITOL. 199 Virgil, Galba. Statue of Hercules in bronae. Burls of a Bacchant, and Alexander the great, Pallas, Lucretia, Meffalina. In another room, frefco by Pietro Perugino. Statues of Silence, Cybele, and Ceres. Bulls of L. Cornelius, and Hadrian. Hence you come to the building erected by Benedict XIV. for the pictures which he pur- chafed of the Sacchetti and Pio families. They are in two large rooms /and few of them are capital *. In the court on the left hand, where the Conser- vator's palace is, the mod remarkable things are, the feet and one hand of a mutilated coloiTal ftatue of Apollo, fuppofed to have been 41 feet high ; the great toe meafures 37 inches round. A lion tearing a horfe, repaired by Michelangelo. Two captive Bulgarians, in pietra di paragone. ColofTal head of Commodus, in bronze. ColofTal head of Domitian, in Greek marble. Statue of a Bacchant, feems modern. At the foot of the ftaircafe, by which alfo you go to the picture gallery, is the famous roftral co- lumn, faid to be erected in the forum in honour of Duilius, who gained the firft naval victory over the Carthaginians. It is fo perfect, that one can- not but doubt its antiquity, confidering that it flood in the open air. The pedeftal, on which is the infcription, is certainly antique, and much worn. * See page 196. O 4 On 200 ROME, CAPITOL. On the oppofite fide is the Mufeum ; the bed in Rome for bufts, infcriptions, and farcophagi ; with feveral fine ftatues. At the end of the court, oppofite to the gate, lies Marforio, a cumbent ftatue of the Rhine, as it is commonly called ; it appears to be the ftatue of fome river god ; but the fymbols being wanting, its name cannot be afcertained. It is vulgarly called Marforio, becaufe it was contiguous to the Foro di Marie. Two terms in form of fatyrs, are on the fides; and two others, a man and a woman. A curious bas-relief of three ancient fafces, and another of Saturn and Rhea. Over the doors, heads of Philofophers. Under the portico, two large Egyptian idols, one of red granite, the other of bafalt. A large farcophagus, of Alexander Severus, and his mother Julia Mammsea, (who were among the firft exceptions to the cuftom of - burning) with good bas-reliefs on it. A coloflal ftatue of Pyrrhus, king of Epirus j and fome other ftatues. A column of oriental alabafter. In a room at the foot of the ftaircafe a fine col- lection of Egyptian deities in bafalt, and granite, found in Hadrian's villa. On the ftaircafe is a curious plan of ancient Rome, on twenty-one pieces of marble. It was the pavement of the temple of Romulus and Remus in the via facra, and is as old as the time of Alex- ander Severus. Bas-reliefs of the hiftory of Marcus Aurelius; ROME. CAPITOL. 201 Aurelius; and a curious one of Curtius leaping into the gulph. The elder Fauftina and Juno, ftatues, The apartment above confifts of fix rooms, and a gallery. The Vafe room, fo called from a fine vafe of white marble, with an antique round altar for a pedeftal. The walls are covered with infcrip- tions, Here are five farcophagi. The mafk of a fatyr. Three ftatues, of a mufe, cupid, and an attendant at the baths. Hercules' room. A large Apollo with his lyre, leaning on a griffon. Pfyche. Agrippina fitting. The hunter Polytimus, with a ftafT and hare. Cupid and Pfyche embracing. Antinous, fine features without exprefiion ; the legs, hands, and one arm, modern. A Menade, or old drunken prieftefs of Bacchus, holding a flafk, and her head thrown back. Three bufts. A female term. Two piping Fauns. Hercules, a term. Mars and Venus. Hercules burning the hydra's heads. Three boys, with a goofe, maik, and ferpent. Sala grande. Above thirty antique ftatues, and a great number of bufts. The dying Gladiator : countenance vulgar, as it was ; expreftion fine ; body admirable : one arm reftored by Michelan- gelo. — Falling Gladiator, the body and head only antique. Two Centaurs, in paragon marble, very excellent : the cupids are gone, and are in the Borghefe. 202 ROME. CAPITOL.' Borghefe. A tall Ofiris, in white marble. Cle- mency. Venus. Leda. Faun. Apollo. Amazon, vesy excellent. Diana. Mufe. Prieftefs, with a vafe. Juno. Faun, with a lion's fkin and flute. Marius, a confular figure (landing, with the fierce, penetrating countenance he is faid to have had. Auguftus. Ceres. Young Antinous. Hadrian naked, in the character of Mars. Apollo. Julia Pia, as a veftal. An Egyptian prieftefs, with the fiftrum and lotus. Ptolemy. Marcus Aurelius. A pleureufe^ or weeper at a funeral, with a lacry- matory. Pallas. Hygieia. Mufe. Harpocrates. A coloflal ftatue of Innocent X. fitting ; in bronze, by Algardi. Stanza di Filofoji. Statues of Zeno, a gladia- tor, he. Bufts. Metrodorus and Epicurus, as a Janus. Afclepiades. Plato. Hiero. Pindar. Leoda- mas. Lycias. Pythodoris. Archimedes. Virgil. Diogenes. Ariftomachus. Pythagoras. Lucius Apuleius. Theophraftus. Ariftotle. Agatho Erythraeus. Heraclitus. Alcibiades. Carneades. Socrates. Ariftides. Hippocrates. Seneca. Di- onyfius of Utica. Marcus Aurelius ; and many unknown ; 103 in all. Two ftatues, a fon and daughter of Niobe. Over the door, a bas-relief of the death of Me- leager ; and in the room feveral others. Stanza HOME. CAPITOL. 203 Stanza di Iniperadori. Statue of Flora, found in the Villa Adriani : a pretty figure, with good dra- pery, but not equal to the Farnefe. Venus iffuing from the bath, the beft ftatue of her in Rome ; the nofe, right hand, and two fingers of the left, modern. Statue of Herculus Aventinus, an over- grown boy, in bafalt. Eighty-three bulls of Em- perors, Empreffes, Sec. A fine buft of Jupiter. Several bafforilievos. Gallery. The walls covered with inferiptions. Statues of Jupiter and iEfcuIapius, in marmo bigio. Sylla fitting, on an altar dedicated to Hercules. Jupiter is on a round altar, with figures of Apollo, &c. Agrippina fitting. Geres alfo fitting, on an altar with feftoons and inftruments of facrince. Butts of Trajan ; Scipio Africanus \ a Mufe ; Ju- no, coloffal ; Antoninus Pius ; Marcus Agrippa, &c. A fmall urn with bacchanals; and other urns, vafes, altars, &c. Mifcellaneous room. Ancient inferiptions on the walls. The chief things here, for there are many, are a Faun holding up a bunch of grapes ; at his feet a goat upon a bafket, in rqffb antko. Diana triformis in bronze. A fmall flatue of an old Satyr. — Bulls of Ariadne; Alexander the great; Jupiter Amnion ; Domitius Oenobarbus ; Sylva- nus ; Bacchus. Gabriel Faerno, by Michelangelo. A beautiful bronze vafe, found in the port of An- num. 204 'ROMZ. CAPITOL. VATICAN. tiuin. — Pigeons on a vafc, a mod beautiful an- cient mofaic. The Vatican is a vaft palace *, and very irre- gular, having been built at many different times, I (hall not pretend to defcribe any thing but what highly merits the attention of a flrangcr. One of the courts has loggie, or open galleries, and three orders — doric, ionic, and corinthian : the architect Bramante. v The upper loggia is painted with the facred hiftory from the creation, on the ceiling ; and on the walls with arabefques, in a wonderful fine tafte, by RafTaelle's fcholars+, from defigns of their matter's. Thefe frefcos being on walls expofed to the open air, have fuffered confi- derably, and mod of the hiftorical fubje&s have been more or lefs repaired. — Some of the beft are — the Creation; the Angel driving Adam and Eve out of Paradife ; Lot and the three angels; Lot and his daughters going from Sodom ; Jofeph ex- * There are 13,000 rooms in it, according to Bonanni ; but in this account he mull include the cellars, &c. Venuti makes, them if, 500. Key Her fays there are 12,524 rooms, 11,246 chambers, and :2 courts. Richard gives it only 4422 rooms. f Giulio Romano, Perino del Vaga, Francefco Penni, fur- named il Fattore, and Giovanni di Udino. The accounts of what RafTaelle himfelf executed are various. Richardfon fays, only the figure of Eve, whereas De La Lande attributes the fix firft hiitories to him, with the baptifm and the laft fupper. plaining ROME.' VATICAN. 205 plaining Pharaoh's dreams; finding of Mofes; Mofes ftriking die rock; and die judgment of Solomon. From this loggia you enter an apartment of four rooms, called le Jlanze dl Raffaelle, wherein are the firft works in frefco painting which the world can boaft They are much injured by time, damp, and fmoke. In the hall of Conftantine are four large pieces — 1. Conftantine's virion. 2. His vi dory over Max- entius. 3. His baptifm, by Pope Silverier. 4. The donation of Rome to the fame Pope. The two firft of thefe are by Giulio Romano ; the two la ft by Giov. Francefco Penni ; from defigns of their mafter Raffaelle. The fecond is incomparably the belt. In this room, at one end of the battle, is a mod admirable figure of juftice, by Raffaelle's own hand ; as is alfo that of Mercy. In the next room are four large pieces. 1, In- cendio di Borgo, or the fire in the fuburbs of Rome extinguished by Leo IV. This has been retouched, 2. The victory of the fame Pope over the Saracens at Oftia. 3. The j unification of Pope Leo IIL 4. The coronation of Charlemagne, a collec- tion of fine portraits. The ceiling is by Pietro Perugino. * They are defcribed at large by Bellori, and others. In 206 ROME. VATICAN. In the third room, the four principal pictures are — i. Heliodorus driven out of the temple by angels under Onias : dated 15 14. Ratfaelle has introduced an epifode of Pope Julius II. brought into the temple. 2. Attila coming to deftroy Rome, refxrained by S. Leo the great : dated 15 14. Leo X. is here reprefented under the character of Leo I. 3. The miracle of Bolfena: dated 1^12. 4. S. Peter delivered out of prifon by the angel ; a moll lingular picture for effect. It has tnree lights—- from the angel — from the moon — and from the moon and torch: the angel is all efful- gence. In the ceiling of this room, among boys, little ftories and grotefque ornaments, done by painters who worked here before Raffaelle, are four fcrip- tnre ftories, correfponding with the larger works. 1. God appearing to Mofes in the burning bufh. 2. Noah returning thanks for being preferved from the deluge. 3. The facrifice of Abraham. 4. Jacob's dream. In the laft room, called la camera delta Segnatura, are alfo four principal pictures — 1. The difpute of the doctors concerning the Eucharift. 2. The fchool of Athens ; for compofition, and variety and juftnefs of expretfion, unrivalled. 3. Mount Parnaffus, a picture full of beauties. 4. Juftinian giving the digefts to Trebonian: and Gregory IX. under ROME. VATICAN. 20; under the figure of Julius II. giving the decretal^ to an advocate. Beiides thefe, the four cardinal virtues are painted over the windows : and on the ceiling are four rounds, the fubjects of which correfpond with the four principal pi&ures. i. The temptation of Adam. 2. A woman looking on a globe. 5. The judgment of Solomon. 4, The ftory of Mar- fyas. To reprefent Theology, Philofophy, Juris- prudence, and. Poetry. The furbafes of the rooms, and fome windows, are painted in chiaro-ofcuro, by Polidore Cara- vaggio ; as great a matter in his way as Raffaelle was in his. Bernini's great flaircafe leads to the Sola regi'a, painted with large hiftories. The entry of Gre- gory XI. into Rome from Avignon, by Vafari, is the mod erleemed *. This hall is a kind of vefti- bule to the Siftine and Pauline chapels. The * The others are — Charlemagne reftoring the patrimony to the church, by Tad- deo Zuccheri. Gregory IX. excommunicating the emperor Frederic II. by Giorgio Vafari. Pepin, king of France, regaining Ravenna to the Roman fee, by beating Aftolfo king of the Lombards; by the fame. Peter, king of Arragon, coming to Rome to do homage to Innocent III. by Livio Agrefti. Cth© 200* ROME. VATICAN. The Sijline Chapel is chiefly remarkable for the Iaft judgment, by Michelangelo Buonarroti, which fills the eaft end : there is great confufion in this immenfe work, but fome detached parts of it arc very fine. The ceiling is alfo painted by him, and has fome things of great merit ; no man can fee the Eternal difentangling the chaos, which is near the upper end of the room, without awe and afto- nifnment. On the walls are fix hiftories on. each fide from the old teftament, by Pietro Perugino, and other old painters. In the Pauline Chapel are alfo two large pictures, by Michelangelo ; the crucifixion of S. Peter, and the converfion of the gentiles : thefe are faid to be his laft works.. The ceiling is by Fede- rigo Zuccheri ; and the fall of Simon Magus, w T ith other hiftories, are by Lorenzino Sabatini da Bologna. Otho I. reftoring to the church the provinces he had feized, by Marco da ciena. Gregory II. forcing Luitprand to confirm a former donation to the church ; by Orazio Sammachini. The Emperor BarbarofTa at the feet of Pope Alexander III. by Salviati. The victory over the Turks at Lepanto, by Vafari. Gregory VII. abfolving the Emperor Henry IV. by Taddeo and Federi^o Zuccheri. MaiTacre of the Huguenots, by Vafari. The ROME. VATICAN. 20p The Vatican Library is in form of a T. In the veftibule are fome landfcapes by Paul Brill. The principal gallery is upwards of 200 feet long, and about 52 feet wide. The collection of books conilfts of the ancient library of the Popes •, that of the dukes of Urbino, of Heidelberg, and of queen Chriftina. Clement XI. enriched it with fyriac and arabic manufcripts : and Benedict XIV. gave the manufcripts of Ottoboni, and Marchefe Aleflandro Capponi. This library is not fo re- markable for printed books as for manufcripts : of the former there are perhaps about 30,000 vo- lumes ; of the latter upwards of 40,000. Being all in clofe prefTes, they are wholly concealed from the eye : thefe prefTes are low, and painted on the outride. Befides the books, there is a fine column of oriental alabafter ; a noble collection of etrufcan vafes, a mufeum chriftianum, confifting of antiques, moftly relative to chriftianity ; medals, and other curiofities. There are alfo fome little pictures of high antiquity — an original portrait of Charle- magne on ftucco. Eight little pieces, among which one by Cimabue of a virgin and Chrift ; and another by Giotto, which is a fcripture hiftory in three compartments. Many old greek paint- ings antecedent to the times of thofe matters who #re generally reputed the reftorers, if not the in- ventors of the art ; but who evidently copied the P greeks, 210 ROME. VATICAN. greeks, and improved upon them. Among others here is S. Theodore, in Muftvo XL Secitlo. Thefe are in cabinets, in one of the fide galleries : at the end of which is an elegant little room fitted up with the flneft marbles, and a beautiful ceiling, by Mengs*, and beyond this another room, on the ceiling of which are three actions of Samfon, by Guido. The Belvedere communicates with the Vatican by an open gallery. Here is that noble repofitory of antique fculpture, called the Clementine Mu- feum * ; and the prefent Pope has fitted up a fet of apartments, worthy them and him, for their better reception -f- . In the niches of a portico furrounding a fmall open court, is the famous Apollo Belvedere, and the no lefs famous Laocoon ; the former incom- parably the fineit iingle figure, and the latter the nobleft group in the world. Apollo is fuppofed to have juft difcharged his arrow at the Python: his attitude is beautiful, natural, and unaffected ; his countenance compofed and elegant; the work- manfhip of every part exquifite : he is longer * See a plan and explanation of the Mufeo Pio. Clementino, in Mercurio Italico, N. 3.) f I am not able to do this collection juftice. It was in great confufion when I was at Rome, on account of the improvements which the Pope was then making. from ROME. VATICAN. 21 1 from the middle downwards than nature ; but this deviation from the proportion of the human figure adds clearly to his dignity ; and upon the whole he has an unfpeakable fublimity, that infpires ad- miration, awe, and reverence. The foot upon which he refts has been broken, and the hands have been reftored. In the Laocoon there is not a feature or mufcle which does not lhow the deepeil anguifh. The father's flefh is all contracted in confequence of the poifon, and his very toes are vifibly affected by it. The youngefl fon is fallen down in the agonies of death : the other is not yet hurt, and is looking towards his father ; wifhing to help him, and at the fame time wanting help himfelf. Two arms of the fons which are lifted up are ill reftored by Comaccinh Michelangelo attempted to reftore an arm of the father in marble; but de- fined in defpair to do it juitice : Bernini put on one in terra cotta. Pliny mentions this group, and fays it was the joint work of three Rhodian artifts, Agefander, Polydore, and Athenodorus. None of the ancients have made mention of the Apollo. In the other niches are a Venus with Cupid. Hercules Commodus, or Commodus in the cha- racter of Hercules. Antinous, as it is called; though fome rather think it to be a Meleager. The Emperor Lucius Verus. Bacchus with a Faun, Ganymede with the eagle. Here alfo is P 2 the 2 12 ROME. VATICAN. the famous T orfo, or trunk of an antique Hercu- les, commonly called Michelangelo's ftudy *. Monte * The other principal things in this collection, for I pretend not to give them all, are — the rivers Nile and Tiber, two cum- bent coloflal figures, with their proper attributes: Another Mcleagcr. Hercules young and old. Cleopatra dying : under this the farcophagus of the giants. Apollo darting at a lizard. Genius ; beautiful character; legs and arms broken off and loft, Diana with a dog, (hooting. A Faun, Seneca, Venus, Narciflus, Apollo, and the Mufes. A Hero in a fingular habit. A Difcobolus ; a drunken Faun. An Amazon ; a Satyr and Nymph. The effeminate Plato, as it is called. An old man with a fire pot, fuch as is ftill ufed income by the common people. Paris; Silenus; Venus marina with the dolphin. A Faun in roflb antico. Mercury ; Neptune ; Jupiter. Busts. — Jupiter Serapis; Oceanus. Pluto in bafalt; Cato, Portia, &c. &c. Animals.— A fow and pigs; a goat. Two fine dogs. An afs's head in bafalt, and another in rofib antico, A fheep hanging over a pedeftal. A cow in bafalt. Greyhounds playing. Vases and Colum ns. — A vafc of oriental alabafter; a vafe of bafalt ; a fine porphyry column, in which there is a mixture of the different forts. Four ROME. MONTE C AVAL LO. 2IJ Monte Cavallo, the Pope's fummer palace, on the Quirinal hill, has its name from two coloffal ftatues, with each a horfe which they formerly held by the bridle. They bear the names of Phidias and Praxiteles; but whoever was the fculptor, they are certainly grecian, and much the mod pleafing colofTal ftatues in Rome. That which is afcribed to Phidias is the bed. The horfes have great fpirit, but their necks are too thick, and their heads too little. The bridles are loft. The prefent Pope has removed the proftrate Obelilk near the Scala Santa, and has placed it here, between the two ftatues and horfes, the pe- deftals of which have been turned corner- wife, to make room for it. The building is round a large court, which is furrounded by a portico. A wide double ftaircafe condu&s to the great hall *. The Four columns of giallo antico. Two of verde antico. And many fine ones of the different forts of granite. The ancient Mofaics with which fome of the rooms are paved, are very beautiful. In the garden of the Belvedere is the large Pine of bronze, which Dante mentions in his canto inferno. It was on the maufoleum of Hadrian. * Pictures. The martyrdom of S. Erafmus, by Nic. Pouffin. S. Gregory turning the earth of the colifsum into blood ; by Andrea Sacchi. P 3 A chapel 2 14 ROME. PALACES. The garden is almoft a mile round : there are fome ftatues in it, a grotto, and a Cafino, called the CofTee-houfe, in which are five pi&ures by Pompeio Battoni, two landfcapes by Orizonte, and two large views of Rome by Paolo Pannini. Other Palaces. The palaces of Rome line the ftreets and fquares, which thus owe their greater!: ornament to thefe vaft edifices. The architecture is good in very few ; but in many the prodigious extent, united to a magnificence of decoration, is flriking : fuch are the Barberini, Borghefe, Bracciano, Alticri, and Colonna palaces. In the interior diftribution, magnificence is the leading feature, to which con- venience often gives place. Palace of the French Academy in the Corfo, pur- chafed by Louis XIV. and furnifhed with cafls of A chapel painted in frefco, by Guido^-and the annunciation at, the high altar, in oil, by him. S. Petronilia, by Guercino. S. Sebaftian, with S. Catharine, and four other faints, by Tiziano. S. George, by Pordenone. G. Peter crucified with his head downwards, by Guido. Ecce homo ; and David with Saul : both by Guercino. Transfiguration, by Cantarini: with the genealogy of RafFaelle's family. Two holy families, by Barroccio. A dead Chrift, by Calabrefe. Martyrdom of S. S. Procefius and Martinianus, by Valentin. all ROME. PALACES. 21$ all the famous ftatues, &c. It is a pompous building, but in too bad a ftyle to criticife. The Albani palace fronts to the ftrada Felice and Pia, at the piazza de* quattro Fontane ; fo that it is in one of the fineft fituations in Rome. It has a confiderable library, and many pictures *. There * The original coloured fketch of Raffaelle's transfiguration. A fine old head, by Guido. Chrift with the Magdalen, by Barroccio. Ecce homo, by Leonardo da Vinci. Chrift taken down from the crofs, by Vanderwerff. Head of Chrift, by Lodovico Carracci. Antonius Santius, Raffaelle's father; by Raffaelle; dated 15 19. A landfcape, with a fine group of figures in front ; by Salvator Rofa. Two feetches, by Andrea Sacchi, of his old men in the picture at S. Romualdo. The Virgin with her hands clafped together ; by Guido. S. Francis, in a landfcape, by Paul Brill. Two pieces of perfpe&ive, one of the arch of Conftantine ; by Palermitano. Guido 1 s portrait, by himfelf. David with the head of Goliath, by Guercino. Holy family with angels, by Albano, Marriage of S. Catharine, by Parmegiano. Peter denying Chrift, by Guercino. The nativity, &c. an old altar-piece, by Pietro Perugino. Virgin crowned by angels, with Chrift and S. John; by M. A. Caravaggio. A prasfepe, by Cimabue. Chrift in the garden, fmall ; by Pietro Perugino, P 4 A pieta, 2l6 ROME. PALACES. There is alfo a colleclion of drawings by the Carraccis, Polidore, Lanfranco, Spagnoletto, Cig- nani, &c. The Altieri palace is one of the largeft in Rome. It is plain on the outfide, and a remarkably good piece of brick work. The architecture of the court is by Antonio Rofii. The ftaircafe is grand. The chapel is painted by Borgognone. The li- brary of Clement X. is in this palace, rich in ma- nufcripts, medals, &c. The princefs's apartments confift of feven noble rooms, well furnilhed. In the bed-chamber are two of Claude Lorrain's landfcapes ; both fine, but in that wherein iEneas is landing in the Tiber, the water is not good \ the other, which reprefents the temple of Vefta at Tivoli, and a view of the Campagna, is de- fervedly efteemcd his chef-d'oeuvre. In this room is a dead Chrift, two angels and the virgin lament- A pieta, by Michelangelo Buonarroti. Virgin and child, fmall ; by Albano, Holy family, by Giulio Romano. The fame fubjeft, by Barroccio. Two drawings of feafts of the gods, by Giulio Romano. A good Roman Charity, by Caravaggio. Juftice, by Raffaelle. Two good Banyans, over two doors. S. Sebaftian, with one drefling his wounds : Caravaggio. Judith with her maid, and the head of Holophernes , by Cara- vaggio. A man holding a globe , by Mieris. in gt ROME. EALACES. 21*} ing ; a fmall, admirable piece, by Annibale Car- racci*. The Barberini palace is on the extremity of the Quirinal hill. It is very large, and is faid to have 4000 rooms in it. Bernini built it for Urban VIII; and the two flories, where are the doric, and the ionic columns over them, are well executed ; the ruflic, and the doric ornaments about it, are very good. The upper part of the front was finilhed by Borromini, and is very bad. The great depth * In the Cardinal's Apartment, Jofeph explaining the dreams of the butler and baker, by Sal- vator Rofa. Four little heads of children, by Vandyck. Virgin and dead Chrift, fketch ; by Andrea Sacchi. Holy family, by Saflb F errata. A little portrait of S. Filippo Neri, with a child ; by Tiziano. Chrift going to Calvary, by Sal vator Rofa. Colifeum by Viviano, reftored according to the de£gn of Fon- tana. Animals, by David of Antwerp. Landfcape, by Both. portrait, by Leonardo da Vinci. S. Filippo Berrici, of Florence, preaching ; by Carlo Maratti. In the Princess Apartment, Dead Chrift, by Rubens. Lucretia, faid to be Guido. Sibyl, by Guercino. Satyr, and peafant blowing coals : Sal vator Rofa, A faun in marble, once a fountain at Albano. and 2lS ROME. PALACES. and recefs of the upper windows has a tendency to make the corinthian heavier than the doric. The great hall is a molt noble room for fize and height - y the ceiling is near 50 feet high, and is coved : the paintings on it by Pietro da Cortona are his matter- piece ; and perhaps there is no per- formance of this fort fuperior to it both for co- louring and compofition. In a room adjoining is a ceiling by Andrea Sacchi; it reprefents the di- vine wifdom. There is alfo another ceiling by Chiari, reprefenting Plato in the cradle, and the bees playing about him. Many pictures have been fold out of this col- lection thofe however which ftill remain form a confiderable cabinet *. The * Noah and his three Tons. Cain and Abel. Hagar and Ifh- mael, a fketch : all by Andrea Sacchi. Apollo flaying Marfyas ; by Caravaggio. Either and Ahafuerus; by Guercino. Four angels; by Parmegiano. Head of a young man ; by RafFaelle. A fmall landfcape, by Claude Lorrain ; view of the lake of Al- banb and Caftel Gandolfo. There are alfo three more fmall ones, and two large, by him. And fome by Both, excellent. ' Death of Germanicus, by Nicola PoufTin ! irrecoverably injured. Cardinal Corfmi, by Guido, full length ; executed in Mofaic in the Corfini chapel. The famous Magdalene, by Guido. There is another not quite fo large. The four evangelifts, by Guercino. Modefty ROME. PALACES. 219 The library is in the upper ftory, 197 fteps leading up to it : they pretend that there are 60,000 volumes of printed books, and 9000 ma- nufcripts. The great room is 100 feet long, 34 broad, Modefty and virtue, heads : Leonardo da Vinci. The daughter of Herodias, with S. John's head ; a capital pic- ture, by the fame. RafFaelle's miftrefs, by himfelf. 4- copy of the fame, by Giulio Romano. S. Jerom reading, by Spagnoletto. A young man cheated by gamellers ; by Michelangelo da Cai*« vaggio. Jofeph and Potiphar's wife : Carlo Cignani. The Magdalene ; by Andrea Sacchi. 0. Veronica; by Guidp. Judgment of Paris ; by Giulio Romano. Ten Baffans. Peafts of the gods, &;c. large paintings ; by Romanelli. Dives and Lazarus, a fketch ; by Paolo Veronefe. Sketch of an annunciation ; by Baroccio. A little withered old man ; by Rembrant ! Efpoufal of S. Catharine; by Parmegianino, after Correggioj the original at Capo di monte. Sketch of a cardinal ; by Guido. A little landfcape ; by Wouverman. Two angels lamenting over Chrift ; by Guercino, Many Brueghels, but not capital. Holy family; by Carlo Maratti, Another; by Andrea Sacchi. Virgin and child ; by Guido. A cardinal; by Domenichino, A head; by Guercino. Sketch 2 20 ROME. PALACES. broad, and 20 high, with a coved ceiling. There is a cabinet of medals, antique gems, bronzes, &c. The family jewels are kept in a large cabi- net , and form a kind of regalia. In the Bolognetti palace, fronting the piazzi di S. Marco, the apartment commonly mown con- lifts of feven rooms, all about 28 feet by 24; the gallery is only 24 by 14, and 20 feet high : there is not a tolerable ftatue in it % The Sketch of S. Erafmo, by Pouffin. A landfcape, by him, not finifhed ! Virgin, child and S. Catharine, by Paolo Veror.efe. A portrait, by Tiziano : three heads above, and child under- neath in a white drapery. Portrait of one of the Giuftiniani family, by Pietro da Cortona. Roma triumphans, a large figure, with a vittory in one hand, and a fceptre in the other, painted in frefco, and antique. Rape of Europa, an ancient mofaic. Many Statues and Bufls, far from capital ; the former chiefly colofial. The drunken faun afleep, an admirable Greek ftatue ; the leg* and arms by Bernini. A Juno, remarkable for the drapery. A fick fatyr lying on his back, by Bernini : in the hall. Burls of Marius, Sylla, and Scipio Africanus, cf Cardinal Bar- berini ; by Bernini. A bas-relief of the death of Meleager. * Pictures. Two pieces of birds and hunting, by Rofa di Tivoli. Portrait of a furgeon at Bologna. S. Peter. Venus, a fatyr and cupid, 7 Virgin, ROME, PALACES. 221 The celebrated Borghefe palace is very bad ar- chitecture, both within and without : a vaft extent of front, without any break, order, or elegance. It is all of brick ftuccoed. The great court has double porticos, fupported by 100 granite columns, and an ugly building over them, that looks too * heavy for what holds it up. It is faid that there are 1700 pictures- in the apartments ; but they are moftly in bad lights, in bad frames, and fome of the beft worm-eaten. It is.the firft collection in Rome for the old mailers; and having been made all at once, there are no modern pictures ; and only one, which is by Pietro da Cortona, fince Guido. There are fix or fevea Virgin, child and Jofeph. All by Ann. Carracci. Portrait of Lodovico Carracci, by himfelf. Chanty with three boys, and Europa on the ball ; both by Albano. S. Peter crucified. Abraham putting away Hagar and Immael: by Luca Giordano. Sharpers, and Jofeph explaining the dreams ; by Caravaggio. Magdalene; Pharaoh, and his daughter prefenting Mofes to him. Original fketch of Bacchus and Ariadne, fmall: the picture itfelf loft in going to Spain. Guido. Angelica and Medoro, by Elifabetta Sirani. Venus and Cupid, by Francefchini. A nativity, by SafTo Ferrata. A doge, by Tintoretto. Holy family, by Rubens. Holy family, by Baroccio. A crucifix, by Algardi, in bronze-; far the beft in Rome. undoubted 222 ROME. PALACES. undoubted RafTaelle's, and ten or twelve Ti- ziand's ; but no good landscapes, and not more than four in the whole *. The * Diana, with her nymphs, mooting ; by Domenichino. S. Jerom ; by Guido. Portrait of Sebaftiano del Piombo, in the manner of Tiziano ; and the cardinal prefenting him with his office, in the man- ner of Raffaelle ; both by Sebaftiano del Piombo. A dead Chrift, by Raffaelle, in his beft manner, S. Cecilia ; by Domenichino. S. John, by Giulio Romano, after Raffaelle, Venus attired by the Graces : Tiziano. A fketch of Raffaelle's transfiguration. Virgin Mary bruifmg the ferpent ; by Caravaggio. Chrift among the dodlors ; by Leonardo da Vinci. A dead Chrift ; by Annibale Carracci. Luther ; by Holbein. Madonna, S. Francis, and S. Jerom : Pietro Perugino. iEneas and Anchifes ; by Barroccio. S. Cecilia ; by Corregio. A faint led to martyrdom ; by Andrea del Sarto. Titian's fchool-mafter, fitting in a chair. Leda ; by Leonardo da Vinci. Tiziano and his miftrefs ; by Tiziano. Four rounds ; by Albano. Venus blinding Cupid, vvhilft two women fteal his bow and quiver ; commonly called the three Graces. Minerva naked ; by Paolo V eronefe. David with Goliah's head ; by Caravaggio. S. Cecilia, by Raffaelle, in his firft manner. Cardinal Borgia and Machiavelli ; by Raffaelle. A Chriftian charity ; by Guercino. Two little Magdalenes j by Arm. Carracci. Dead HOME. PALACES* 22* The front of the palace of the Cancellerla is by Sangallo, and very well upon the whole; though the pilafters are too high for their diameters. The orders are doric, and two compofites, with a goad entablature. The church is part of the front, with three ailes, and lofty ; but plain, without any or- nament. The Colonna palace, fronting to the fquare of the twelve apoftles, is of great extent *, and the apartments are magnificent, and handfomely fitted up. They are full of pictures by the belt matters. The gallery is one of the fineft and richeft in Europe (139 feet long, 34 broad, Dead Chrift, with two angels ; by Guercino. Temptation of S. Antony ; by Ann. Carracci. Chrift carried to the tomb ; by RafTaelle. Marriage of S. Catharine ; by Parmegiano. Coronation of the Virgin; by Ann. Carracci. Drawings ; by Giulio Romano. Drawing of the battle of Conftantine ; by RafFaelle. Holy family ; by Andrea del Sarto ; in Don Paolo's apartment. There are two fine bufts of Antoninus Pius and Hadrian ; a fa- mous crucifix by Michaelangelo, &c. &c. In this palace are fome flabs of white marble, faid to have been cut from the cornice of fome ancient building, which are elaftic. One of them is kept unfet, to (how its elafticity. If one end is fet on the ground, and it is fhaken whilft held at the other end, it will vibrate like a board, and return to its firft pofition with a cracking found. and 224 ROME. PALACES. and 70 high), and has fome very capital paint- ings *. The upper apartment has been lately fitted up, in a neat rather than a fplendid manner ; and there * Gallery. Sacrifice of Julius Caefar ; by Carlo Maratti. Adam and Eve ; by Domenichino. A plague; by Pouffin. A large landfcape ; by Nicola Pouffin. A pieta ; by Guido. Europa; by Albani. Ecce Homo ; by the fame. Boys; by Rubens. Virgin with the infant Jefus, S. John, two Saints, and tw» female Saints, by RafFaelle. Landfcapes by Claude Lorrain and Pouffin. The prodigal fon — the entombing of Chrift — and the Magda- lene dead; by Guercino. Holy family, by Parmegiano. Death of Regulus ; by Salvator Rofa. Herodias, by Guido. Cephalus and Procris, and Ganymede with the eagle, both by Tiziano ! A (ketch of the Martyrdom of S. Peter, from the picture at Venice, which is efteemed Tiziano's beft hiftorical piece. Two fine portraits, in one piece, by Tintoretto. Venus and Cupid, by Paolo Veronefe. Holy family, by Andrea del Sarto. it. Lucia, by Palma il vecchio. An affumption, by Rubens. S. Francis— flight into Egypt, both by Guido, David with the head of Goliath, by Guercino. The Virgin, S. Margaret, and feveral other Saints, by Par- megianino, A hunting &6ME. PALACES. 225 there are a few good pictures in it. Here is alfo a cabinet ftudded with precious ftones, which be- longed to K. Charles I. and was fold by Cromwell to Cardinal Mazarin, whofe niece married into the Colon n a family. The gardens, on the lide of the Quirinal hill, are in a bad tafte. The Corjini is a noble palace, without architec- ture; 22 windows in front, a fine fuite of rooms* A hunting and a battle, by Borgognone. A man drinking out of a glafs, by Tiziano* A peafant eating beans, by Tintoretto. Cardinal* \i apartment. Many fmall cabinet pictures. Magdalene, by Guido. Virgin, by Saflb Ferrata, &c. hi a room en the ground fictir* Seven marines, frefco, by Tempefta. Seven landfcapes, by Pouflin. A large piece of architecture, by Luchefini, Paolo Pannini's matter. A little picture of ruins, by the fame hand, Apollo and Daphne, by Pouflin. Sixty- lix landfcapes, by Orizonte. Above flairs* Ceiling of the great hall, by Lanfranco. S. Margaret, by Guido. Herodias carrying the head of S. John, by Ttzlano, Angels appearing to the fhepherds, by-Berghem. David, by Guido. CL and 226 ROME. PALACES. and a large garden, part of which is on the Jaitl- culum, and commands one of the nobleft views in Rome. The library is well difpofed and public. It confifts of four rooms, 24 feet fquare, and 16 high, in one of which is a large collection of prints and drawings, three others for new books, and a gallery about 70 by 20. There is alfo a gallery of pictures by the beft mafters *. The * Holy family, by Baroccio. A remarkable hare, by Albert Durer. Two boys, by Tiziano. Head of Chrift, by Guercino. , Rembrandt, by himfelf. Noah's facrifice, by Nicola Pouflin ! A large noble landfcape, by him. Four fmall landscapes, by the fame. The martyrdom of S. Peter, by Guido. Holy family, by Murillo. Landfcape with hunting, by Erughel de Velours, A butcher's mop, by Tcnicrs. A peafant, with his pot and pipe, by the fame. Jacob travelling with his family and Mocks, by CafHglione* Horfes, by Wouvermans. A woman and child, by Caravaggio. An old man in profile, by Rubens. Adoration of the fhepherds, by Baffano. Herodias with S. John's head, by Guido. S. Francis mowing a crucifix, by Ann. Carracci. Two fmall piece's, by Rubens. Eliezer with Rebecca at the well, by Carlo Maratti. Views of the Campo Vaccino, and Diocletian's baths, by Paolo Pannini. Chrift .ROME. PALACES. 227 The GojkiguU palace is remarkable only for four ceilings painted in frefco, by JDomenichiiio, Guer- cino, Albano, and Romanelli. Tlie Chrift difputing with the dottors, by Luca Giordano. A blind fidler, by Mola. S. Peter, by the fame. Birth of the Virgin, by Ann. Carracci. Chrift at the well, by Guercino. Holy family, by Sebaftiano del Piombo. S. Andrew, by Calabrefe. S. Bartholomew, by Lanfranco. Venus at her toilet, by Albano. Portrait of Pope Paul III. by RafFaelle. Portrait of Philip II. and Cardinal Alexander Farnefe, by Tiziano. Ecce homo, by Vafari. S. John Baptift, by Guercino. Chrift with the Magdalene, by Baroccio. Chrift with the woman taken in adultery, by Tiziano. A head by Parmegiano. Raffaelle's miftrefs, by Giulio Romano. S. Jerom, by Tiziano. Virgin, Chrift, and S. John, with angels, by Carlo Maratti. Virgin and child, by SafTo Ferrata. The miferies of war, in eight pieces, by Callot. Dead Chrift, with figures, by Lodov. Carracci. Portrait of Raffaelle, by himfelf. Virgin reading, by Carlo Maratti. The nativity, by BalTano. Virgin, child, and cherubs, by Saftb Ferrata. The Virgin, by the fame. Virgin and child, by Albano. Ecce Homo, by Carlo Dolce. Q^2 The Rome, Palaces, The Farnefe palace, belonging to the king of the two Sicilies, is the moft fuperb in Rome. It The fame fubjett, by Guido. Holy Family, by Baflano. Mater dolorofa, and S. John* by Guido. A fine little Berghem. A portrait, by Rembrandt. S. James, walking, by Ann. Carracci. Magdalene, with a choir of angels, by Ftfancefchini. Holy family, by Fra. Bartolommeo. Another, by Nicola Pouffin. Sketch of the crucifixion, by Guido. S. Andrew adoring the crofs, a ikctch, by Ann. CarraccL A little portrait, by Raffaelle. The annunciation, by Michelangelo. Virgin, Chriit, and S. John, by Schidone. Another holy family, by the fame. Single figure of the Virgin, full length— Holy family — Another in a large oval — Flight into Egypt. All by Carlo Maratti. Small holy family, by Michelangelo. Prometheus and the vulture, by Salvator Rofa. Marriage of S. Catharine, by SafTo Ferrau. A battle piece, by Borgognone. S. AugufUn meditating on the myftery of the Trinity, by Ga^- rofalo. Chrift with S. John, by Cignani. The Virgin, by Andrea del Sarto. Another, by Michelangelo. The birth and marriage of the virgin, by Pietro di Corftna'. a». Sebaftian, and other pieces, by Rubens. Holy family, by Parmegiano. Portrait of Cardinal Bandmi, and other pictures, by Domeni- chini. Portrait of a Doge of Venice, by Barroccio. JROME. PALACES. £^9 was built by Michelangelo, except the fouth front, which is by Giacomo della Porta. In the court are three orders, doric, ionic, corinthian, with open arcades round it. In the apartments of this now deferted palace are fome good ftatues and bufts. But the great ornament of it is the gallery painted in frefco by Annibale Carracci *„ In * In the ccurt. The famous Farnefian Hercules, byGlycon; the legs ib Well reftored by Gulielmo della Porta, that when the originals were afterwards found, Michelangelo did not think it necef- fary to put them on. — Removed to Naples. Pppofite to this, another Hercules, of the fame fize, fuppofed to have been made from defcriptions given by ancient authors ; though fome hold it to be antique, A colofTal ftatue of Flora ; the drapery very much admired : the head, arms, and feet modern, by Gulielmo della Porta. —Removed to Naples. Another Flora, and two (Jladiatprs. The great farcophagus, found in the maufoleum of Cecilia Me- tella, called Capo di bove. In a tittle court, hehtnd the palace. The Toro Farnefiano, or prodigious group of Zethus and Am- phion, tying Dirce by the hair to the tail of a bull, in re- venge for her having robbed her mother Antiopa of their fathers love. Though the figures are larger than life, it faid to be all one piece of marble. — Removed to Naples. Qn the ftaircafe. Two captive Dacian Kings. 23O ROME. PALACES. In the Farnefina, or little Farnefe palace, Raft'a- elle and his fcholars painted in frefco the ftory of Pfyche, with the aflembly and banquet of the gods. The gallery in which thefe frefcos are was formerly In the apartments. Statues. Mercury. A Camillus. The fhepherd Cneius Martius extract- ing a thorn from his foot : ftatues in bronze. Statue of a peafant with game ; in a round hat, half-boots, and Iheep- fkin coat. Ganymede refting on a great eagle. Hercules and Deianira. Apollo in black marble, leaning on his lyre. Bacchus. Venus crouching, and Cupid playing with her. Meleager in roflo antico. Koma triumphans, colofTal : porphyry with bronze head and arms. Bufls. Caracalla, very fpirited and characleriftic. IVlithridates, in a noble animated ftyle. Seneca. Salluft the hiltorian. Sarcophagi. One with a bas-relief of a facrifice to Priapu^ Another with Silenus drunk in his car. Both of white marble. Vafe. "With bas-reliefs reprefenting bacchanals, on fluted marble. Gallery. Sixty-five feet by twenty; admirablj* painted in frefco by Ann. CarraccL fa ROME. r AL ACES. 2jl formerly open, and the colours were -much hurt by being expofed to the air. Carlo Maratti re- paired In the ceiling are three pictures. In the centre, Bacchus and Ariadne, with Silenus, Satyrs, Fauns, &c. on each fide of this an octangular piece — in one, Paris receiving the golden apple from Mercury: in the other, Fan giving the wool to Diana. The frieze on both fides is divided by pilafters painted, over the real ones : fo here are three larger, and four (mailer fpaces ; in the firfl of which are pictures, in the others medallions of a greenifh tint. On the fide oppofite to the windows, the pictures and medallions are, Galatea with Tritons, Nymphs, and Cupids, in the middle. Jupiter and Juno, between the medallions of Apollo flaying Marfyas, and Boreas carrying off Orythia. And Diana with Endymion, between Eurydice carried back to Hell, and Europa on the bull. On the other fide of the gallery the larger picture is Aurora and Cephalus in a chariot drawn by two horfes, Titan is afleep, and Cupid with a bafket of rofes is flying in the air. This is between Venus with Anchifes, and Hercules with Iole ; which two pictures have on each fide their medallions — Cupid tying a fatyr, and Salmacis embracing Hermaphroditus is with the firfl: — Syrinx turned into reeds by Pan, and Leander fvvim- ming, conducted by Cupid to Hero, is with the other. Thefe pictures and medallions have magnificent accompaniments of terms, boys, fitting and (landing figures of young men, frames, fefloons, mafks, &c. At each end are three pictures, one over another. The fubjects of the two undermofl, Perfeus and Andromeda — The coin bat of Perfeus and Phineas. The middle ones are Polyphemus and Galatea — Polyphemus with the fragment of rock, which he is about to hurl at Acis. The little pictures over thefe are, the rape of Ganymede, and Hyacinthus with Apollo. CL4 The 2^2 ROME. PALACES. paired them. Here alfo are fome ftatues rind bufts*. The The prints of this famous gallery are well known, and a large account is given of it by Bellori. In another room, called the Cabinet. The choice of Hercules, by Ann. Carracci. At each end of the ceiling, in ovals—Hercules fuftaining the globe — and at reft. Over the door, Circe giving the cup to UlyfTes — and oppofite, UlylTes tied to the mall. Over againft the window are two brothers carrying their parents from an irruption of Mount Vefuvius ; and Perfeus and Medufa. Thefe are all in frefco, except the firft, which is in oil on canvas. The chiaro-ofcuros are admirable. The gallery is painted in frefco, with the hiftory of Pfyche, by RafFaelle and his fcholars. The ftory is from Apuleius, but the painter has taken only the great parts. The two 3arge pictures on the ceiling are the Council and Banquet of the Gods. Befides thefe, there are four triangles on each jide, and one at each end, containing the other parts of the ilory : and two lunettes at each end, with five on each fide, jeprefenting Cupids bearing the fpoils of the Gods. The arches, triangles, and lunettes, are formed by feftoons of fo- liage, painted by Giovanni da Udine, and ferving as frames to the pictures. In a room, adjoining to the Gallery. The Galatea, pretty well preferved. Michelangelo Iketched out in one corner, a colofTal head, in his bold great manner. Up ftairs there are other paintings, but of bo great account. ' ' Some ROME. PALACES. 333 The Ghigi palace fronts both to the Corfo and the piazza Colonna : it was begun by Giacomq della Porta, continued by Maderni, and finifhed by Felice della Greca. There is a good library, and a large collection of pictures, but few goocl ones *. The Some of the ftatues and bulls, which were formerly in the Far- nefe palace, are now removed here. The moll remarkable are, a fine head of Plato, from which Michaelangelo is faid to have taken the idea of his Chrift. The belt head of Homer now extant. Bull of Demolthenes, or, as others fay, of Solon. A coloffal bull of Julius Caefar. Head of a Vellal virgin, with her veil. Venus Callipyge. Equeftrian Ilatue of Auguftus, &c f * Cupids, by Baroccio. Genius burning Cupid's quiver— and, Genius fleeping, botli by Guido. The Roman Charity — Lucretia— -the Magdalene ; all by Guido. Virgin and child, by Guercino. Chrift young, with a crofs, and a globe by him— Two Angels uncovering Chrift — Virgin with Chrift on a cufhion ; all by Guercino. St. Peter dictating, by Domenichino. The flagellation, by Guercino. A marine, by Claude Lorrain ; in the fbre ground the rape of Europa. A very fine landfcape, by Claude, with many figures. Avery fine landfcape, by Salvator Rofa; in the fore ground Io as a cow, and Mercury charming Argus. Lucretia — the Magdalene; both by Guido. S. Bruno in the defart, by Muziano. The 234 ROME. PALACES. The Giuftbuani is a vaft palace, with a fuite of melancholy, though well proportioned rooms. The collection makes a great figure in print, but the ftatues and bas-reliefs are chiefly of the lower ages*. The Mattel palace is large, and has four ftories. Here was a profufion of ftatues and bas-reliefs, with abundance of inferiptions; but the collection has been fold and difperfed. The attributes of the foul and body, by Andrea Sacchi ! executed at large in the Barberini palace. Alexander vifiting the tomb of Achilles, by Pietro Tefta. * The collection is defcribed in two pompous volumes in folio, under th* title of la G tiller ia Giujlinicwa. Bas-relief of Amalthea giving fuck to Jupiter, one of the beft in Rome. Bull of Vitellius. Bull of Alexander the Great, in black marble. Butt of Aurelius, in the fame. Statue of Minerva, Greek fculpture. Marcellus the conful, fitting. An excellent goat. Statue of Fauftina, the younger. A very large Vafe, with bas-reliefs. Ceiling painted prettily in arabefque, by Zuccharo. Paintings, Naked Venus, by Tiziano. S. Paul and S. Anthony, by Guido. ChriH with Nicodemus, by candle-light; by Gerardo della nottc. 4 The ROME. PALACES. 235 The palace of Prince Odcfcakhi, duke of Brac- ciano, is the lead exceptionable of any modern building in Rome. The pictures which were once here arc in France ; the ftatues in Spain ; and the gems, &c. difperfed all over Europe *, The Pamfili palace is large and magnificent, the architecture by Borromini ; the front towards the corfo by Valvafori. It may give fome idea of the extent of this palace, to know that upwards of 4000 perfons were entertained in it, when Prince Doria, the prefent poflefibr, received the archduke and archduchefs of Auftria, in the year 1780. The pictures are numerous, but many of them indifferent. This palace abounds particularly in landfcapes In * I know not what was faved out of the wreck of this once fa- mous collection. M. D ut ens mentions a fine cabinet of medals and medallions in bronze; and a beautiful cameo in agat-onyx, fix inches by four and an half, reprefenting Alexander and Olympia, the work of Pyrgoteles. t Two landfcapes, by Pouffin— the fir ft with Venus and Adonis. — the fecond with Diana and her nymphs. Death of Cain, by Salvator Rofa. phrift bearing his crofs, by Giacomo BafTano. Two landfcapes, by Alexis, fcholar of Both. A landfcape, by Claude. Jts pendant, by Ann. Carracci. Martyrdom of St Agnes, by Guercino ! Virgin &3 5 ' ROME. PALACES. In the other Pamfili palace, in the Piazza Na- vona, befides the great hall, there is a gallery near 100 feet long, the ceiling painted by Pietro da Cortona, and a fuite of nine handfome rooms. The library is open to the public. There, Virgin and fleeping Chrifl:, by Guido. A fine Virgin, by Saflb Ferrata. A copy of the Aldobrandine marriage, by Nicola Pouflin,. The prodigal fon returned, by Guercino, The Magdalene, by Domenichino. Defcent from the crofs, by Salviati. Affumption of the virgin, »By Ann. Carracci. Adoration of the Magi ? Flight into Egypt, Entombing of Chrift, The Magdalene fitting, by Caravaggio. The holy family, by Parmegiano. The virgin fuckling Jefus, by Rubens, Bacchanals, by Tiziano, A village feaft, byTeniers. The virgin adoring the infant Jefus afleep, by Guido. Terreftrial Paradife, by Brughel. A head, in paftel — Pan teaching Apollo to play on the flute*—* S. Peter weeping. All by Ann. Carracci. Bacchus defcending from his car to confole Ariadne fqr the lofs of Thefeus, by Tiziano. Abraham and Ifaac, by the fame. Adonis afleep, and Venus fanning him, by Paolo Veronefe. The birth of Chrift, by Albano. A great academy of malic, by Valentine. A group of children fighting, by Gefli. A VQunfc ROME. PALACES. 2J7 There are no lefs than eighteen palaces belong- ing to this family^ feven of which are in Rome. The A young woman in a bath, liftening to an old gypfey, oy M. A, Caravaggio. Virgin, child, Jofeph and an angel, by Giorgione. A young foldier, whom an old mart attempts to flop, by Pafligf* nani — Richardfdn fays Giorgione. The Virgin in contemplation, by Saflb Ferrata. JLigar abandoning Ifmael, and the angel coming to comfort hefi by Calabrefe. Chrift before Pilate, by Paolo Veronefe. Erminia finding Tartcred wounded \ by Gaercinci. !Dajdalus tying Icarus's wings, by Andrea Sacchi. The Magdalene contemplating a death's head, by FetL Virgin and child — Adoration of the fhepherds — both by Panne* giano. Animals, by Caftiglione. Converfion of S. Paul, by Giullo Romano. Four Baflans, Defcent from the crofs, by Vafari. Venus, a fmall full length, by Giulio Romano. Portrait of Machiavelli, by Bronzino. Chrift, and S. Peter paying the tribute, by Calabrefe. Holy family and S. Catharine, by Tiziano. A woman catching vermin, with a pot before her, by G cranio della notte. S. Francis, with angels, by Ann. Carracci. Venus with cupids, in a marine, by Brughel. A boy playing with a flieep, by Caravaggio. Venus and Cupid — Vulcan and his forge— and two other pieces ; by Brughel. Virgin, child, &c. a fmall picture, by Lodovico Carracci. RafFaelle's miftrefs, full length, almoft naked, by Raffaelle. Mifer^ 23B .ROME. PALACES. T\\t Ruiiilonhil palace in the cbrfo, though, not fo large and magnificent as fome, has apartments as comfortable as any in Rome. It has a collec- tion of ftatucs, bulb, pictures. &c*. The Mifers, four figures, by Albert Durer. Bathftieba in the bath, by Bronchortt. S. John with th§ crofs, catching water, Guido. A landfcape, with the flight into Egypt — its pendant—a third, with the mouth of the Tiber; by Claude. S. John kneeling, by Guercino. Beafts, by Brughel. An angel drolling the wounds of S. Roch, by Caravaggio. The nativity j with fhepherds adoring, by Ann. Carracci. Dcedarus'and Icarus, by Albano. The falutation, by Ann. Carracci. Portrait of Innocent X. by Diego de Silva. A portrait by Vandyck. Another, by Holbein. A (ketch by Corregio. Several pictures of S. Jerom, by the belt matters. A concert — Pfyche— -S. Peter weeping — and a Pieta, in the chapel — all by Annibale Carracci. * A moft exquifite antique Medufa's head. A Faun, and a Venus in the bath ; well reftored by Fiamingo. Bun's of Cato, Julius Ca^far, and Brutus. Brutus with a fword, half ftatue, head only antique. Piftures. Four heads in frefco, by Corregio. An old man with a fkull, by Aldegnift. Two landfeapesj by Paul Brill. The Colifeo, by Nicola Pouffin. A praifepe, by Ann. Carracci. . The ROME. I PALACES. 239 The Rofpigliqfi palace, on the Quirinal hill, pof- feffes one of the fineft frefcos in the world — the Aurora of Guido. It is the ceiling of a pavilion in the garden. In the palace itfelf, among other landfcapes, is a very fine one by Claude Lor- rain, with the Colifasum, Forum, temple of Con- cord, and the bay of Naples *. In The crucifixion, by Michelangelo. A ftorm — and a fog, by Vernet. A landfcape, by Paul Brill. Two marines, by Vernet's mailer ; and two by one of his fcholars. Three marines, by Salvator Rofa. Four landfcapes, by Vernet. The battle of Pavia (1522) by Tintoretto. Martyrdom of S. Bartholomew, by Guercino. A candle-light, by Baffano. Two pictures of the ftory of Lucretia, by Nicola Pouflin. View near Rome, by Paul Brill. Portrait of Paul Brill, by Vandyck. * The Aurora, by Guido ! The wall of the pavilion, in which this famous frefco is painted on the ceiling, is covered with bas-reliefs. Tempefta painted two friezes, and Paul Brill four landfcapes, in frefco. In two falons adjoining are Samfon in the temple of Dagon, the triumph of David, and two other pictures, by Domenichino, painted in his youth. Perfeus and Andromeda, by Guido. Sophonifba, by Calabrefe. Rinaldo and Armida, by Albano. Chrift on the crofs, by Guido. Eve 240 fcOME. t»ALACE§. In the Santa Croce palace 4re ten good rooms, befides the great hall, elegantly furnimed; and there are fome good pi&ures in it. As the af- fumption, by Guido. A battle, by Salvator Rofa: and Job on the dunghill, by him. Mag- dalen, by Guercino, &c*. Eve giving the apple to Adam, by Giac. Palma. A holy family, by Simone da Pefaro. A landfcape, by Claude. A bull of Scipio. A ftatue of Minerva i and many other bufts and ftatues. * Job on the dunghill, by Salvator Rofa. The aflhmption, by Guido I Perhaps the bell picture by him in Rome. The four feafons, by Albano : in his bell manner, but growii rather black. Herodias, by Guido. A large landfcape, by Pouflin. Two landscapes, by Salvator Rofa. Cattle, by Rofa di Tivoli. Galatea, by Albano. Europa, by Guido. A large capital battle-piece, by Salvator Rola. Virgin and child — and a fine head, by Guido. Head of Chrift, the Magdalen, and other pieces, by Guercino. Birth, and burial of Chrift, by Baflano. A woman decking a ftatue with flowers, by Trevifani. Charity with two boys, by Carlo Cignani: one of his beft pictures. S. Jerom fealing a letter, by Spagnoletto. Two ftudies for the laft judgment, by Michelangelo, The ROME. PALACES. 24* The Spada palace, by piazza Farnefe, is re- markable for an antique cololTal ftatue of Pom- pey, as fuppofed. There is a room painted by Giulio Romano, and his fcholars : befides many cafel paintings** The * Befides the ftatue of Pompey, a great collection of pictures. Firjl Room, David with Goliath's head, by Guercino. Samfon flaying the Philiftines, by Lanfranco. The deaths of Antony and Cleopatra, two pictures by Carlo Maratti. The angel appearing to the lhepherds — the return of the prodi- gal — and another, by Baflano. Two large pieces of fruit, by Mario* Second Room* The vifitation of Elifabeth, by Andrea del Sarto. The devil tempting Chriit, and the woman taken in adultery, by Calabrefe. S. Jerom, by Michelangelo. S. John, by Guercino. Nymphs, by Albano. Rachael at the well, by Pouflirt. Cardinal Belardino Spada, a whole length fitting, by Guid#. Third Room, S. Anne teaching the virgin to work, by M. A. da Caravaggio. Chrift driving the money changers out of the temple, by Cala* brefe. A ftudent with a Ikull, by Albert Durer. A landfcape, by Salvator Rofa. R Other 342 ROME. PALACES. The archite&ure of the Caffarelli, now the $t$p* pant palace, is curious, as being from a defign of the famous painter RafTaelle d'Urbino. Palazzo Strozzi is very large; remarkable prin- cipally for a cabinet of medals, among which are twelve in gold of the firft twelve Csefars ; of cameos, intaglios, and fome paintings *. The Other Paintings, A candle-light, reprefenting the feizingof Chrift in the garden, by Gerardo della Notte. Dido on the funeral pile, by Guercino ; damaged beyond re- pair ; full of faults and beauties. Antony and Cleopatra at table, by Trevifani, Eight frefcos, by Zucchari. The facrifice of Iphigenia, by Pietro Tefta. The rape of Helen, by Guido. The facred fire kept up by the veftals, by Ciro Ferri. The flaughter of the innocents, by Pietro Telia. The market at Naples, during the time of Mafaniello's infur- re&ion, by Michelangelo delle Battaglie, The Roman Charity, by Carracci. St. Jerom, by Spagnoletto. Efther and Mordecai, by Guercino. The repofe in Egypt, by Caravaggio. Judith and Holophernes, probably by Guido: copied by Carte Maratti in the Capitol. Two landfcapes, by Claude. The Magdalene, by Guido Cagnacci. Portrait of RafFaelle, by himfelf, at 12 years of age. Paul III. the Farnefe Pope, by Tiziano. * M, Dutens mentions fome fine engraved ftones in this cabinet. As, cameos of a head of young Hercules, and of Germani- cs. ROME. PALACES. 243 lThe Veroffi palace in the corfo, otherwife in- confiderable, is vifitcd for a gallery at the back of the court, formerly an open loggia ; the ceiling of which is painted by Albano. There is a re- markable harpfichord here, fo contrived, that by- playing on one, you make three others play at the fame time. Over it is a large and good land- Icape, by Gafpar Pouffin. In the court is a good ftatue of Jupiter fitting, with his thunderbolt *i The Roman nobility are well bred ; the middling rank are addicted to the polite arts, and particu- larly to poetry ; the populace are daring and fero- cious. Rome abounds in improvifatori^ poets who will compofe and repeat verfes extempore on any fubject* The (Indies of the belles-lettres and an- tiquities are more followed at Rome than the Sciences. cus. A Centaur fuckling a young one, A Satyr with two goats. Intaglios-, another head of a young Hercules, in aqua- marine. The famous Medufa of Solon, in chalcedony. An- other Medufa, winged, in cornelian. The fuperb cameo of Auguftus, in agat-onyx; fuperior even to the duke of Brae- ciano's. * The ftatue of Jupiter in the court, is thought to be the bell of him in Rome. In the frefco ceiling of the gallery by Albano, the figures are in general ill drawn; and all the large ones in the angles, ex- cept that of Jupiter, ill executed. The fubjecls are morn- ing, noon, and night ; the fevert days of the week, &c. The fmall compartments are the belt ; but fome of them highly indecent. R 2 La 244 ROME. COLLEGES. LIBRARIES, La Sapienza is the principal of the Colleges, and as it were the centre of the Univerfity. The building was begun by Leo X. There are eight profefTors of theology, fix of civil and canon law, eight of medicine, five of philofophy, one of belles lettres, and four of the eaftern and greek languages. The college of la Propaganda was founded by Gregory XV. There are feveral profefTors be- longing to it, who give lectures in theology, philofophy, the belles lettres, and the oriental languages, to the young ecclefiaftics who are de- ligned for foreign millions. The building is in a fhocking ftyle, by Borromini. The Roman college is a vaft, heavy edifice, built by Gregory XIII. from a defign of Amma- nati's. This is dedicated to the education of youth ; as are alfo the Clementine and Nazarene colleges. Kircher's Mufeum is in the Roman col- lege, and contains, among many other things, a fine fet of precious ftones. It was much increafed by Bonanni, who publifhed a large account of it. Cardinal Zelada alfo has a handfome cabinet of natural hiftory. For the encouragement of learning, there are alfo many public Libraries in Rome. That of the Vatican is univerfally known. The other principal ones are in the Akieri, Albani, Barberini, Borg- hefe, Corfini, Ghigi, Imperiali, and Pamfili pa- laces ; ROME. THEATRES. CARNIVAL. FUNCTIONS. 24^ laces ; at the Sapienza, Propaganda, and Roman colleges; in the convents of S. Agoftino, Gefu, S. Maria fopra Minerva, augmented by the library of cardinal Cafanata, S. Silveftro, &c. Moft reli- gious houfes of note have confiderable libraries, which are eaiily acceffible, Rome is certainly not a place of amufement for the gay and difTipated : no public fpe&acles being allowed, except during the time of the carnival, which lafts from the feventh of January to aQV wednefday. Then indeed they are attended with an ardour unknown in capitals where the inhabi- tants are under no fuch reftraint. Seven or eight Theatres are open ; the principal of which are the Argentina, Aliberti, Tordinone, and Capranica: the two firfl are appropriated to ferious operas, the third to plays, and the lafl to burlettas. No wo- men are permitted to appear upon the ftage, but caftrati play the female parts. During the carnival there are alfo feftinos or balls, mafquerades, and horfe races. But though public diverfions are not ufually al- lowed, except in carnival time ; yet the frequency and pomp of religious functions in fome degree make a flranger amends. Among thefe, that of the holy week takes the lead. On palm funday there is a proceflion of the Pope and Cardinals to the chapel of Monte Cavallo, in order to blefs the palms. On Monday the famous miferere of Al- R 3 legri 246 ROME. FUNCTIONS, legri is rehearfed by felecl: voices. On Wednes- day the tenebra are performed at five o'clock in the afternoon in the Siftine chapel, and conclude with the Mifcrere : which is repeated on Good Friday in all its folemnity. On Thurfday, the Pope, after affilting at high mafs, pronounces his benediction from the front of S. Peter's, and then waGies the feet of twelve poor priefts, and ferves them at table. On Eafter Sunday high mafs is again celebrated by the Pope, and he gives the benediction a fecond time : in the evening, the cupola, front, and colonnade of the church, are fuperbly illuminated. There is another grand benediction on Afcenfion day. On Corpus Chrijli {lay is a magnificent proceffion; and on this occa- fion nineteen pieces of tapeftry from the cartons of Raffaelle are difplayed in the cloifter leading up to the Vatican. On S. Peter's day, June the 29th, there is a grand mufical performance, in the large winter or canonical chapel of S. Peter's ; befides oratorios and other mufic in Chiefa nuova, S. Girolamo, S. Apollinario, Cecilia, and other churches. In the evening the cupola of S. Peter's is illuminated, and grand fireworks are played off from the caftle of S. Angejo. At this time alio is the ceremony of prefenting the horfe to the Pope from the king of the Two Sicilies. Befides thefe conftant functions, the 8th of September, being the nativity of the virgin, is 1 celebrated ROME. WOMEN. LOTTERY. TROOPS. 247 celebrated once in ten or twelve years. Soon after the election of a new Pope, his holinefs goes in grand proceffion to the church of S. Giovanni in Laterano. This is called the poffejfo, and is equi- valent to the coronation at Weftminfter, or the confecration at Rheims. And laftly, once in twenty-five years is the jubilee ; which will not be celebrated till the year 1800. Out of carnival time, except when any func- tions are going forward, the gay and idle have no refource but parading in the corfo, and in the converfaziones or affemblies. A ft ranger will form no high idea of the beauty of the Roman women from the fpecimens he fees in the fafhionable circles ; but he will be often flruck with the fine character of countenance he fees in the flrcets ; and perceive a refemblancc between living features and thofe of the antique bufts and ftatues. The common people are in a ferment during all the time of the Lottery, which is drawn eight times a year. Such is the rage for it, that the quantity of bread baked in the city is at thefe feafons confiderably lefs than ufual : in fhort, it is the locuft which confumes what the caterpillar had left. The troops which do duty at the pontifical pa- lace, &c. are a regiment of foot of 1200 men, a troop of chafteurs of 200, a hundred cuirafliers, R 4 and 24-3 ROME. MANUFACTURES. PROVISIONS. and 200 Swifs foot, armed with cuirafTes. The infantry is a medley of deferters from all nations : the cavalry have been moftly domeftics to cardi- nals or noblemen. The whole corps is cafhiered at every new pontificate. Befides thefe troops, there is a militia, for every quarter of the city, under their own officers, who are citizens. Rome has fome manufactures of filk, but the material is bad, and when wrought it is neither fightly nor ferviceable. The only articles of ex- portation are vitriol, mufical firings, beads, artifi- cial flowers, perfumed powders, pomatums, and cffences, gloves, combs, fans, and fuch trifles. Medals, ftatues, bufts, paintings, and Jludii of marbles, make an article of commerce. Hol- land, Ireland, and Switzerland, fupply the city with linen-, and England with woollen and cotton goods. There is very little calh in Rome ; fo that payments are moftly made in paper. There are feveral confiderable banking houfes, which keep the courfe of exchange very high. Provifions are plentiful and good ; their vitella ynongana particularly excellent, as is alfo their fvvine's flefh ; the worft meat is mutton : they have capretti or kid, and the venifon of wild deer or capreole, but very lean : porcupine is alfo fome- timts fold in the markets. Poultry and wild fowl are fine and plentiful. They eat all forts of fmall birds. ROME. PROVISIONS. AIR. VILLAS. 249 birds, down to the wren ; and feveral birds which we never touch; as hawks, jays, magpies, and woodpeckers. They have a good variety of fifh, t h of the frefh waters, and of the fea. The air of Rome is reckoned good for afthma- tic people in winter. The climate is mild, the frofts flight, and the fnow generally melting as it falls. There are fometimes thick, {linking fogs, but they are not very frequent, and generally dif- perfe before noon. In fummer fome parts of the city are fnppofed to be unwholefome ; nor will the mod indigent perfon lleep on a ground floor dur- ing this feafon. The country about Rome is moftly flat, and burnt, being covered with vol- canic allies ; the hills arc calcareous. The Villas of the Roman nobility in and near the city are many of them very magnificent. Of the firft there is the Aldobrandini, on the top of the Quirinal hill, remarkable for a fine antique frefco reprefenting a marriage : it is in a pavillion in the garden ; and was found in the baths of Titus. Villa Lanti is in a lofty fituation on the Janicu- lum, and has a fine command of the city. The houfe is by Giulio Romano. Villa Ludoviji, on the Pincian hill, is a mile and a half in compafs, and commands a fine profpe<£L The gardens are peopled with bulls and flatues. In a cqfino, on the flaircafe, is a fine coloflal head of Juno, grecian fculpture : in the apartment, Pyrrhus, 250 ROME. VILLAS. \ Pynhus, a good bas-relief. Mars repcfing : good proportion and attitude. Another Mars; the head fine. Papirius and his mother ; the beft group in Rome next to the Laocoon. Paetus and Arria, another fine group, but far inferior to the laft. In a fummer-houfe, a fine ceiling, by Guer- cino; the fubjeft, Aurora in her car. In the room over this, another ceiling by the fame hand — Fame founding her trumpet. There is alfo a land- scape, by Guercino, and another by Domenichino, A fatyr, by Michelangelo. Villa 'Mattel on monte Celio, is the pleafanteft of any fituation within the walls. Here were flatues, bufts, urns, Of a boy with a mafic all over him, Healing apples out of the bafeet of another boy who ftands by. Souterrains of the houfe. Ceiling and ftucco, by Algardi ; the beft in Italy both for elegance and workmanftiip : all forts of ornaments are hap- pily introduced. Statues, Seneca. Clodius, Bacchus, VeftaL Hermaphrodite. S conierip 2$% ROME. GROTTO FEKRATA, &C. conieri, See. The fituations of thefe are in general fine, with happy inequalities ; but we meet with nothing but bad water-works, olives, ftone pines, and clipped hedges. The apartments of thehoufes are calculated for the hot feafon, when the Romans refort much to Frefcati, where abundance of lodg- ings are to be let for that purpofe. Grotta Ferrata is fuppbfed to be the fite of Cicero's Tufculan villa. It is low with refpedt to Frefcati, yet it is on a good eminence, with a to- lerable plain, a ftream by it, and a full view of the Campagna. In the abbey is a chapel painted in frefco by Domenichino. At Caste l Gandolfo the Pope has a houfe or caftle, wherein to pafs the autumnal feafon or vil- leggiatura. It is a plain, ftrong-looking, old-fafhi- oned houfe, with nothing remarkable in it. The town is built on the border of the lake, called now lago Cqftello; and has fine views of the fea over the city and campagna of PvOme. Here are the gardens of the villa Rarberini, in which are the ruins of the ancient villa of Domitian. Two charming fhaded roads lead to Albano, along the fide of the lake. Many of the Roman nobility and gentry have country houfes for the villegglatura in this place. Near the gate towards Paccia (anciently Aricia) is a large ruined maufo- leum, terminating in fevcral pyramids^ commonly called ROME. ALB AND. LAKES OF ALBA, &C. 2£9 called the tomb of the Curiatii. Some fuppofc it to have been erected in honour of Pompey. The Lake of Alb a no, or Lago Cq/Ielb, is the crater of a worn-out volcano, and feven or eight miles in circuit. There are feveral remains of temples on its banks, but they are not confider- able. A canal or drain, called the Emijfario, is dug through the mountain, two miles in length, four feet wide, and about fix feet high, arched and lined with lava. This is to difcharge the water of the lake, which ufed fometimes to run over and drown the country. It is commonly faid that it was made by the Romans during the fiege of Veii, in obedience to an oracle. The quarries of black compact lava, called felce 9 are near Albano. It is ufed in and about Rome for paving, and for reftoring antique bafaltine ftatues. The other beautiful lake ofNEMi is alfo a cra- ter, of an extinct volcano. It was anciently called fpeculum Diana and lacus Aricinus. Riccia is near this lake ; as is alfo Genfano, called fo corruptly from Cynthtanum, and placed oppofite to the town of Nemi. From the garden of the Capuchins, juft above the lake, is the moft delicious profpect imaginable. AH the eminences about both thefe lakes are fhaded with foreft trees : the water and. wood fet off each other, and combine to form a S 2 landfcape^ iSo ROME. TIVOLT. landfcape, which is at the fame time delightful, and unufual in Italy. Tivoli is about eighteen miles from Rome. The fituation is high, but the town itfelf is a wretched place, made more difagreeable by a num- ber of forges. The cathedral is built upon the ruins of a temple of Hercules. The ancient name of the place was Tibttr. The principal beauty of Tivoli arifes from the river Anio, now called the tfeverone, which falling headlong about fifty feet down the rock, forms a noble cafcade, and feveral lefTer ones, called le cafcadelle. The latter are ex- tremely pidurefque; as is alfo a deep ravine in the hill, called la grot t a di Nettuno, into which the great cafcade falls. To enrich the view, here are lbme fine remains of ancient buildings, as the villa of Mecasnas, and particularly the little round tem- ple of the Sibyl, as it is commonly called, but ra- ther of Vefta ; one of the moft elegant remains of Grecian architecture. The naturalift will here take pleafure in obferv- ing the continual formation of new Tiburtineftone from the depofit of water defcending from the cal- careous Apennines. Villa EJlenfe is a curious fpecimen of gardens in the old tafte, with terraces, dipt trees, fcroll-work and water-works. Villa Adrianty between Tivoli and Rome, may ferve to give fome idea of Roman magnificence. Immenfe / ROM£. VILLA ADRIAN I, 26l Immenfe ruins fpread over a prodigious traft of ground. Here was an amphitheatre, theatre and circus, temples, baths, an hippodrome, vaft bar- racks for the foldiery, and great rooms, with mouldering walls only now remaining, fo encum- bered with thorns, that it is difficult to get at them. Many of the fineft pieces of ancient fculp- ture that adorn modern Rome were found buried in this aftonifhing villa of the emperor Hadrian. On the road from hence to Rome there is a lake, with fmall floating iflands on it, formed of grafs, reeds, &c. on which men pufh themfelves about for the amufement of ftrangers. A fmall brook that runs from the lake forms incruftations, fome of which, from their refemblance to fugar-plums, are called Confetti di Tivoli. SECTION VIII. Journey from Rome to Naples, and defcription of that city and its environs. On leaving Rome by the porta latina, you will find many ancient fepulchres by the road fide. You afterwards difcover an old roman aqueduct, which ftill brings water to modern Rome; and you pafs under it at Torre di mezza via. Hence, leaving Lariccia on the right, the road paffes by Marino, near lago Caftello, to la Faiola, and fo to Veletri. This town is in a good fituation, and not S 3 ill 262 ROME TO NAPLES. ill built; it has feveral public fountains, and in the fquare is a flatue in bronze of Urban VIII. call by Bernini. The Ginnetti palace is a noble ftru&ure; the front to the ftreet very chafte, and the ftaircafe wonderfully elegant. The mountain of Veletri is volcanic, and fo is all the country from Rome. Near the little town of Core are many ruins of two temples, and fome very ancient walls of curious conftruclion. Between Sermoneta (anciently Sul- mona) and Cafe nuove, but out of the road, are remains of an ancient temple of Saturn, at Sezze ; anciently Setia, or Setinum. The road from Veletri to the foot of the mountain of Piperno is good - 9 but the afcent of the mountain itfelf is very rough, and ftony, and the defcent very deep. The town of Piperno is wretched, ill-built, and has no re- markable edifice. Having pafTed the mountain, you get into a narrow valley, with bad roads, and thence into a foreft of cork-trees, before you arrive at Terracina. But now, inftead of crofling the mountain, you go over the Pontine marfhes you quit the old road about three miles from Sermoneta, and come to Terracina, by a much fhorter and eafier cut. The prefent Pope having drained the marfnes, and made a road of fifty feet wide, twenty-five miles in length acrofs them. At Terracina are ruins of a palace of Theodoric, and fome remains of the Appian way. The cathe- 4 dral ROME TO NAPLES. 263 dral is on the fite of an ancient temple : and under the portico, which is fupported by beautiful mar- ble columns, there is a large vafe of white marble, adorned with relievos *. The air here is mild, and the views picturefque. The Pope has a gar- rifon *, and alfo a guard at the barrier feparating the two dates, five miles beyond this town ; and a mile (till farther is a guard belonging to the king of Naples. There is now an excellent inn here. The lituation of Fondi is delightful, but ftagnant waters render the air putrid ; and it is ill-peopled. The town is a fquare, divided by two ftreets at right angles : that which runs from eaft to weft has the ancient pavement ftill entire. The walls are curious; the lower part of them being older than the roman times. The king of Naples has a garrifon in the cattle. In the neighbourhood is a cave, where Sejanus concealed Tiberius. Between Itri (Mamurra) and Mola di Gaeta, to the right of the road, is a tower, called the tomb of Cicero. Mola di Gaeta, anciently fo celebrated for its wines, is a handfome, well-built village, beautifully lituated f . The quay before the inn is very plea- * The ancient Jnxur was on the top of the hill, under which the high road pafTss : the ruins of it deferve attention. ■f The hill where Formic flood is now covered with excellent vineyards. That Cicero had one of his fineft villas here is well known ; and it was near it that he was affafiinated. S 4 fant ; 264 ROME TO NAPLES.' fant; the bay expanding in front, the city of Gaeta feeming to rife out of it, and orange groves hang- ing over the water. Here the baggage of tra- vellers is always examined. At the city of Gaeta, in the cathedral, the font is a curious antique vafe. The bones of the conftable Bourbon, which were expofed to view in the caftle, have been inhumed in the prefent reign. You next pafs the river Garigllano (anciently Liris) and arrive at Twelfth Room. An allegorical piece, and a hiiiorical fubjec\, by Paolo Vero- nefe. Thirteenth Room. Juno, Venus, &c. and a large drawing, by Giulio Romano. Fourteenth Room. Two large pieces of fine heads. Chrift triumphant, with the fceptre. The Virgin in glory. Two concerts of Angels. All by Corregio, and very fine. Fifteenth Room. Madonna and child — a tempera, or, as we call it improperly, in diftemper. Holy Family with attendants. The Virgin, Chrift and S. Catharine. Children's heads. All thefe by Corregio. Sixteenth Room. Three Holy Families ; by RafFaelle. Pope Leo X. between two Cardinals. The fame with that in the Pitti Palace at Florence. This is faid to be the copy with which Andrea del Sarto deceived Giulio Romano. — It feems to me inferior to that at Florence, and not to be exactly the fame. Raffa- elle's fervant; by RafFaelle. The Holy Family; by Andrea del Sarto. A head, by Leonardo da Vinci. S. George and the Dragon ; by Rubens. The finding of Mofes ; and, trie betraying of Chrift ; by Paolo Veronefe. T 4 ever, 280 NAPLES. PALACES. ever, is the only one which is in a good ftyle of architecture In * Franc avillq. The Magdalene bathing the feet of Jefus, by Paolo Veronefe. A bacchanal of children, ftyle of Rubens. A picture, faid to be by Teniers. Martha and Mary at the feet of Jefus # . Principe della Rocca, Presentation in the temple, figures half the fize of life. The four evangelifts, heads, by Guido. The vifitation, fchool of the Carracci. Repofe in Egypt, with Angels, by Albano, Latona changing the peafants into frogs, by Annibale Car- racci. Judith, fize of life, by Maffimo. S. Jofeph's dream, with the Virgin and Child, long oval, half figures, fize of life, by Pietro di Cortona. David cutting off the head of Goliath. * The account of this and the following palaces is from Cochin, who re- marks fome pictures without knowing exactly which palace they are in. As Two monks and a young man, by Caravaggio. The two difciples at Emmaus, by Cappuccino. A female faint, fuppofed to be S. Genevieve. An old woman at her toilet, both by the fame, A portrait, by Spagnoletto. David, by Guido. The Samaritan woman, fketch, by Carracci. Another fine fketch. Virgin in glory, and three faints below, by Andrea del Sarto. A head, faid to be by Raffaellc. A princefs, full length, faid to be by Rubens. Many heads, faid to be by Rubens and Vandyck, but which are only^copu* Portraits by Tiziano ; among others his own. Head of an old man without a beard. Some other tolerable picture:, many bad ones, and abundance of copies. Deborah 4 NAPLES. PALACES. 28* In the palace of the prince di Tarfia is a li- brary, open to the public three days in the week. In the chapel of the palace of San Severo, belong- ing to the duke of Sangro, are two curious mo- dern ftatues, one reprefenting modefty, the head covered with a veil, through which the features are clearly difcernible ; the other, a man caught in a net, from which he is endeavouring to difen- gage himfelf : the firft is by Corradino ; the fe- cond by Queirolo of Genoa. Giufeppe Sammar- tino has imitated the former in a dead Chrift, covered all over with a veil. Deborah driving the nail into the head of Sifera. Two fmall pictures, by Baffano. A child playing with a woman's head-drefs, in the flyle 01 Guido. Twelve pictures of Angels— and a Holy family, by Simoa Vouet. Principe della T irre. S. Peter and S. Paul, half figures, larger than life, by Spag- noletto. Ecce Homo, by Guido, half figure, fize of life. A pieta, with the Magdalene, &c. by Domenichino, A holy family, by the fame. Flight into Egypt, with angels, by Pietro da Cortona. S. Francis dying, comforted by angels, by Lanfranco. The three Maries, by Ann. Carracci. The annunciation, by Poufiin. Repofe in Egypt, by the fame. Head of a woman, faid to be by Tiziano. I Studii 282 NAPZ-ES. PUBLIC BUILDINGS. I Studii Publici are the buildings of the univer- fity, made from defigns of Fontana : the front is adorned with antique flatues found at Cuma. Profeffors read lectures here in theology, medi- cine, politics, law, mathematics, phytic, hiftory, the humanities, and languages. The principal Libraries are the King's ; that of the Seggio, or S. Angelo a Nido ; S. Filippo Neri ; the prince of Tarfiaj the convents of Monte Oljveto, S. Giovanni di Carbonara, &c. There are near forty Hofpitah and Covjervatories at Naples, and yet no where" more beggars and idle people in the ftreets. The Albergo de poveri is an extenfive hofpital, being intended as a re- fuge for the poor from all parts of the kingdom. That of the Annonziata, by the porta Nolana, is one of the fined eftablifhments here : it is very rich, and relieves not only the fick, but madmen, penitent proftitutes, and foundlings : it has alfo funds for portioning poor girls and houfes in the country, where the fick are fent, for bathing, or better air. The great Theatre of S. Carlo, adjoining to the royal palace, is vaft, noble, and elegant. The form is a truncated ellipfe, like the other Italian theatres. There are fix ranges of boxes, thirty in each row, except the three loweft, out of which the king's box is taken : this, as ufual, is in front of the fiage. In the pit are fifteen rows of feats, thirty Naples; theatres, music. $83 thirty in a row, feparated by broad refts for the elbow: they are moftly let for the feafon; and turn up, and are locked in the abfence of the pro- prietor. The price of admiffion into the houfe is three carlini, about thirteen-pence half-penny. The ftage is of an immenfe fize : the fcenes, drefTes, and decorations, are magnificent. On public nights, iuch as the king's and queen's name-day, he. fee houfe is fuperbly illuminated : in the front of each box is placed a large mirror, before wnich two large wax tapers are fet ; thefe, with tie lights within the boxes, and on the ftage, make a prodigious fplendor. The fize of the theatre, and the noife of the audience, are fuch, that neither voices nor inftruments can be heard diftinctly : but the Italians confider the opera fo much as a place of rendezvous and vifiting, that they feldom attend to the performance, except when a favourite air is finging. It is common not only to receive company in the boxes, but to take ices and other refremments, to fup, and to play at cards. The opera generally begins on the fifth of november, and lafts til} feptember. Befides the great Theatre, there is Teatro de* Fiorentini, about the fize of our little theatre in the Haymarket, only much loftier : and 'Teatro nuovo, lefs, and, notwithstanding its name, older than the l^ft. In both thefe, burlettas or comic operas are performed, 284 NAPLES. CARNIVAL.' performed, without dances. There is a neat little playhoufe, in which they act comedies. All the theatres are open on faturday and funday even- ings ; and each of them once befides. There are three Confervatories in this city, for the education of boys in the profetfion of mufic, Thefe furnifh a band for the church of the Fran- cifcans, morning and evening, during eight days * in October. The octaves indeed, or eight days following the feftival of the patron faint of every church, are a continual folemnity, at which the fineft voices and beft hands attend both morning and evening ; and the churches at Naples are fa numerous, that the octaves make one continued entertainment throughout the year. At the fefti- val of Corpus Chrifli, the richeft churches engrofs the whole opera— voices, inftruments, machines, and decorations. The Carnival begins on S. Charles's day, -and continues till lent. All this time the city is very gay with the cufcomary amufements of operas, balls, mafquerades, &c. terminating with horfe- races in the ftrada Toledo ; and fometimes with a royal mafquerade proceffion of the Grand Signior to Mecca ; which is a moft magnificent fpectacle. The barbarous Cocagna, in which a prodigious number of calves, flieep, hogs, lambs, and poul- try, were afTembled, every funday, to be torn in pieces by the populace, is now difcontinued. STAPLES. PRESEPES. WARDS. POLICE. 2%$ The nobility and gentry drive every afternoon along the Chiaja in habit of gala : with their fplendid carriages 5 volantis and other fervants in rich liveries; and beautiful horfes finely capari- foned ; they make a gay and brilliant appearance. The common people of Naples are very devout, or rather fuperflitious. Next to S. Gennaro, their patron faint, the Madonnas, which are fre- quent in the ftreets, feem moft to attract their at- tention. On chriftmas eve they play off fire- works the whole night. But one of the greateft fingularities of Naples is the Prefepe, which is a reprefentation of the birth of our Saviour with all its concomitant circumftances, in fmail figures. It is expofed either in a fuite of apartments, or oa the fiat top of the houfe •, and by means of mofs, paper, cork, and branches of trees, forms a hif- torical landfcape. Some of thefe prefepes are pretty enough : they contrive to make the fky and dis- tant country a part of it,-.- and the optical illufion^ are really wonderful. Naples, with refpecl to its municipal police, is divided into fix feggli or wards, five of which are governed by a committee of nobles ; the laft be- longs exclufively to the plebeians, who are diftri- buted into twenty- nine ottine or quarters, under the direction of an eletio or mayor, with his affift- ants. Thefe wards meet in open porticos, which alternately have the honour of being the theatre, l whereon iS6 NAPLES. FR0V1SI0N3. MANNER?. whereon the liquefa&ion of S. Gennaro's blood is exhibited in the month of may. In feptembef the exhibition is in the cathedral. This city has neither watchmen nor lamps-, but of late years darknefs has been difpelled in many ftreets, by the piety of father Rocco, a Domini- can ; who has perfuaded the people to fubferibe oil for lamps, to b urn before images : he fixes them up in the moft convenient places, 2nd thus turns their devotion to public account. Provifions are plentiful and cheap : poultry, game, and filh, are abundant ; fruits and vege- tables are to be had all winter in fo favorable a cli- mate. The wants of nature are fo eafily fatisfied here, that the lower clafs of people work but lit- tie; their great pleafure is, to balk in the fun, and do nothing. Perfons of a middle rank pafs much of their time in coffee-houfes, and other places of public refort ; and few purfue their call- ings with any great degree of zeal and activity. The nobility are fond of fplendor and mow ; as appears in the brilliancy of their equipages ; the number of their attendants, the richnefs of their drefs, and the grandeur of their titles. About a hundred of them have the title of Prince-, a Hill greater number bear that of Duke. In the female fex, the paffion for finery is faid to be fuperior to all "others; which feems fcarcely credible in fo genial a climate. That furious jealoufy, for which the NAPLES. MANNERS. 287 the nation was fo remarkable fome generations ago, is pretty well eradicated here, as well as in the reft of Italy. Education has been little attended to. Few people of rank would fuffer their children to fre- quent academies or public fchools ; but kept them at home, where, in this foft climate, they ac- quired habits of indolence and effeminacy. The pains and expence government has been at in eftabliQiing public feminaries ; the patriotic efforts of the new academy of fciences and belles lettres ; and the famion which begins to prevail among the nobility of vifiting foreign countries ^ will proba- bly bring on a gradual improvement. Many of the ftreets are more crowded than even thofe of London or Paris : the people doing little or nothing, and having no public walks or gar- dens to refort to. In the midft of all this idlenefs, fewer riots or outrages happen than might be ex- peded. This is owing partly to the national cha- racter of the Italians*, and partly to the common people here being nniverfally fober. Their great luxury is iced water ; and nothing would be fo likely to raife a mutiny in Naples as a fcarcity of ice. The king grants the monopoly of this com- modity to certain perfons, who are obliged to fur- nilh the city all the year, at a certain price, which is about three farthings a pound. It all comes from the mountains about eighteen miles off, where J> its 2§8 NAPLES. ENVIRONS. pits or refervoirs are made to preferve it; and it is fent to the city only as it is wanted. There is not perhaps a city in Europe, in which fo few of the inhabitants contribute to the wealth of the community, by ufefui or produc- tive labour, as Naples. The number of nobility^ priefts, monks, lawyers, muficians, footmen and lazzaronis, furpafles all reafonable proportion. The religious are faid to be about 10,000, the! lawyers 8000, and the lazzaronis 40,000. Many of the laft have neither houfe nor property ; it is not however ftriclly true, that they pafs their lives in the open air, and lleep all weathers in the Itreet t in winter, though the cold might be fup- portable, yet they could not Hand the heavy rains. In the rainy feafon, vagrants refort in crowds to the caves under Capo di monte. The Environs of Naples are highly interefting to the claflical fcholar, the naturalift, and the an- tiquary. To the weft are Puzzuoli and Baise ; to the eaft Vefuvius, the fubterraneous cities, and the mufeum at Portici. The readied mode of vifiting thefe environs is to hire a calejfo, which is an open carriage, re- fembling our one-horfe chaifes; and is to be had at a minute's warning in moft of the flreets. The common price is a carline an hour, or twelve carlines a day, and two to the man ; but as there is no fixed price, a ftranger muft make a bar- gain. In ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. PAITSILIPO, 289 In order to go to Puzzuoli, you muft pafs the beautiful fuburb of Chiaja* and the grotto of Paufilipo. On the Chiaja are the two churches of Piedigrotta and la Mergellina. The firft fa- mous for an image of our Lady, to which, on the 8th of September, the king comes in folemn proceflioh, with his whole court, and almoft every inhabitant of Naples and its neighbourhood* The church of la Mergellina, or & Maria del Parto, was founded by the poet Sannazaro. His tomb, on the top of which is the buft of the poet, accompanied with two genii^ is adorned with heathen gods and fatyrs : to fave appearances, the names of David and Judith are infcribed on the pedeftals of the ftatues of Apollo and Minerva. The terrace before this church affords a compre- henfive view of Naples on the fide of the Chiaja. Clofe to the fea-fliore* at the extremity of the Chiaja, is a vaft palace in ruins, commonly called queen Joan's palace 5 but probably built by the laft princefs of the Caraffa family, whofe name was Ogni Anna± A little farther are the ruins of another, formerly belonging to the Roccella fa* mily, and of the fame age. The grotto of Paufilipo pierces through the pro- montory of that name, in a direct, but afcending, line, nearly from eaft to weft; it is cut in the tufo {tone, is arched, and receives light from the two mouths, and fome diagonal apertures in the U roof* ZyO ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. roof. In the mod elevated part it is 89 feet high ; in the lowed not above 24; in length it is 2316 feet, in breadth 22. The duft is very difagree- able, and the fcantinefs of light diftrefling. It reflects honour on the national character, that no one ever meets with an infult in fuch a long, dark palTage. It was probably made by Lucullus; and from an expreffion of Seneca's we guefs that it was paflable only for foot paflengers. Alphon- fus L widened it for carriages ; and fince his reign it has been confiderably heightened and levelled. The whole hill of Paufilipo is entirely covered with beautiful houfes and gardens, the refort of the Neapolitans in fummer; being protected from the hot fouth and weft. Above the eaftern entrance . of the grotto, 011 the very brink of a precipice, fixty feet above the road, is a ruinous vaulted building, called the tomb of Virgil It is built in mattoni, or with bricks placed lozenge-wife; and within are feveral niches for urns, whence we may prefume it was intended for a family tomb. The ruin is a very picturefque one ; but as to the bay that grows upon the top, it is of a very modern date. Beautiful points of view offer themfelves at every ftep in afcending to it. Farther on towards the north is the convent of the Camaldoliy from which there is a moft fub- lime fea view, and a molt beautiful land one. Hence you may go through forefts of chefnuts, opening Environs of naples. grotta delcane. 291 opening fometimes to noble views, till you reach the glacis of the caftle of S. Elmo, where the whole city and fuburbs will appear in one collec- tive picture. The Carthufian convent adjoining to the caftle is perhaps the beft fituated monaftery in Europe. But to return to the grotto of Paufilipo — As foon as you have got through it, you open to a view of the gulph of Baia; ; and patting through a fertile vale, you arrive at a lake, once the crater of a volcano, called Lago d' Agnano. It is about three miles in circuit. On the verge of it are the fweating ftoyes of San Germano ; and the much-talked-of Grotta del Cane, where a mephitic vapour rifes about ten inches from the ground, fatal to the animal whofe organs of refpiration are immerfed in it. Experiments are ufually tried upon dogs, who, after lying fome time dead to all appearance, are recovered by being carried into the air, or thrown into the water. The kingV^park at Afiruni is another volcanic crater, about five miles in circuit ; filled, not with water, but with noble timber-trees* and wild boars. Hence you go to the Pifciarelli, or fpoutings of hot aluminous and fulphureous water. It is ufed medicinally, and the fituation is retired and plea- fant. Crofling the hills from thefe fprings, you ar- rive at the Solfatara, anciently forum Vulcani, and U 2 the 2^2 ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. SOtFATARA, &C\ the only volcano of the Campi Pklegrai which now fhows any figns of burning : the laft eruption from it was in 1198. It is a plain, of an oval form, meafuring above a mile one way* and near one third of a mile the other; environed by hills of jnoderate elevation. This plain has many holes, from which iflues a moift vapour fmelling of hepar fulphuris, and in dark nights fometimes appearing luminous. It is all hollow underneath, founding like a drum, when damped upon ; and if the ear belaid to the ground, a bubbling and hiffing, like that of boiling water, may readily be diftinguifhed. Notwithstanding this, vines and other fruit trees grow on the outer declivity ; a variety of flirubs lhoot up along the ba$ks ; and a wood of chefnut trees flourifhes on a part of the area itfelf. They make alum here, by gathering the white clay from the furface, and heaping it round the holes from whence the fleam iliues ftrongefT. This clay was a lava, and being pene- trated by the hot fleams of a fulphureous acid, has undergone this change. Hence it is but about a mile to Puzzuoli ; to which you may alfo go directly from the grotta* by a good carriage road, along the fea-fhore. In approaching the town, you will obferve the great quarries of Puzzolana, which takes its name from this place, Puzzuoli ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. PUZZUOLI. 293 Puzzuoli ftands on a fmall peninful'a ; and is a town of near 10,000 inhabitants. The cathedral was a temple facred to Auguftus : no more of the ancient temple remains, than fome corinthian co- lumns, with their capitals, and part of the enta* blature, of parian marble, and beautiful work-? manfhip, in one of the lide walls of the cathe- dral. In the iquare is the pedeftal for a ftatue of Tiberius, with bas-reliefs upon it. An ancient Amphitheatre dill remains : the entrances, tlxe dens for the wild beafts, and the arches which fupported the feats, are ftill almoft perfect : the building was of two Hories only; the lower of lava, the upper of brick. The temple of Serapis is (till buried ; what has been uncovered is the court and pronaos. The court is fquare, environed with cells for the prieits, and baths for the votaries : in the center is a raifed circular platform, with veffels for fire, an altar, rings to which the victims were fattened, and other appendages of facrifice, entire, and in their proper places. Sixteen columns of african marble that upheld its roof, and the ftatues, were removed to the new palace of Caferta ; the pedef- tals only of the ftatues remaining. Three columns of the pronaos are {landing ; they are of cipblline marble, and about ten feet above their bafes, are full of holes eaten in them by the file-fifli or pholas. U 3 The 294 ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. The mole of the harbour of Puzzuoli, vulgarly called Caligula's bridge, is a ftupendous work : it was repaired by Antoninus Pius, and fince that in 1575. There are now fourteen piles remaining, well built of brick and piperino, connected by half-ruined arches. From Puzzuoli you go to Monte Barbaro., an- ciently mom Gaitrus, undoubtedly of volcanic origin, though in times beyond the records of hiftory. Near this is Monte Nuovo, which was thrown up in forty- eight hours, to the height of 400 fathoms, and 3000 paces in circuit, in the month of Sep- tember 1538. The crater of this is about a quarter of a mile in depth. The famous Lucrine lake was reduced by this eruption to a little dirty pool. The lake of Avernus, fo celebrated by the poets, was once the crater of a volcano. Its form is nearly circular, and it is about 600 yards in dia- meter. The banks that furround it are fteep, and when they were covered with the thick woods which Agrippa levelled, muft have given it a very gloomy afpect, and might poffibly flop the me- ^|fiSt exhalations, and render it unwholefome. The cave yf the Sibyl, as it is commonly called, is to fhe eaftward of the lake : it is about three yards wide, near five high, and 220 or 230 yards to the end : here is a narrow way, descending to two fmall cells, where there are baths. From the largeft ENVIRONS OF NAPLES? 295 Jargeft of thefe they fay there is a corridore or paflage, ending in an outlet, now made up witfr bricks ; and that there is a third cell, with a bad winding ftaircafe, leading from it to the top of the mountain, but now flopped up with dirt. The temple of Apollo, as they name it ; though others rather think it was dedicated to Mercury, or Neptune, or the Infernal gods ; flands near the lake to the right. It is a large building of 5 brick, the marble eating and decorations having been carried off ; round within and octagonal without : there are fev'en great niches, over each of which is a large window : the roof was vaulted, but is now fallen in. Leaving the lake of A vermis on the left, you come to a large brick arch, called Arco Felice, thrown acrofs a chafm in a ridge that bounds the plain where Cuma flood, to the eaflward : it is fuppofed, but without any probability, to have been a gate of the city of Cuma. The height is feventy feet, and the opening twenty feet four inches wide. From this high ground you have a view of the place where Cuma flood, and of the flat more of P atria ; where are fome heaps of flones, the ruins of Litemum, whither Scipio Afri. canus retired. Tradition fays his afhes were de- pofited here ; and the word patria 9 flill remaining fixed to the wall of a watch-tower, is thought to fce part of his epitaph — ingrata patria, neque enim V 4 ofa JENVIRONS OF NAPLES. cjfa mea habebis. Certainly no memorial of this illuftrious perfon has been found in the fepulchre of the Scipios lately difcovered at Rome. The rocky hill, where flood the citadel of Cuma, is hollowed into many fpacious caverns ; but you will look in vain for the grotto of the Cumsean Sibyl : that fancluary was deftroyed in the gothic wars. Returning hence by the Lucrine lake, you find by the fea fide, the natural hot ftoves and baths called Sudatorii de 9 Tritoli, or Nero's baths, con- fining of paffages and rooms, cut out of the mountain, and full of hot fleam, ifTuing from the hot baths below. Thefe are much frequented, and there are fometimes 900 patients from the hofpital of the annunciation at Naples. You will now proceed to take a view of feveral ruined buildings, near the fhore of the gulph of Baize. The temples of Venus, Diana and Mercury; and the fepulchre of Agrippina : names given with- out authority. Hence you arrive at the mercato del Sabbato, a flreet or double row of columbaria, or fmall hollows in a bank, wherein urns, containing the allies of the dead, were depofited. The plain, which defcends gradually towards the fea, has been dignified with the title of the Elyfian fields. This whole coafl of the gulph of Baias, fo celebrated by the Roman poets, and fo filled with the ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. %gj fne villas of their great men, is now become moftly a barren and unwholefome wafte. A little beyond the mercato del fabbato is the Tifcina mirabile, a great refervoir of water, con- jectured to have been made by Lucullus, to fupply his villa, which was hereabouts; or by Agrippa, for the fleet, when it lay at Mifenum ; which is more probable. It is now dry, and you may de- fcend into it by forty fteps : the arched roof is fupported by forty-eight pillars in four rows : they are covered with a tartar or felenites depoiit- ed by the water. All hereabouts are ruins of ancient brick or tufo buildings. The mod conliderable of them Is that called Cento Camerelk; the deftination of which no one has been able to afcertain : fome jthink it was a refervoir of water, others that it was a prifon, others again that it was the lower flory of fome great building. Juft below this is Mare morto : they pretend that dead bodies were carried over this lake from Mifenum to the Elyfian fields. It is feparated from the open fea by a narrow channel, clofed up in fuch a manner, that the fifli can enter the lake, but cannot efcape again ; fo that the fiihery here is very valuable. A flip of fand divides it from the channel of Procida; and at the extremity rifes the promontory of Mifeno ; at the foot of which are remains of a theatre., and other ruins of the ancient ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. ancient town. Here were the villas of Marius, Lucullus, and the Emperors : a few fifhing huts, with a lonely public houfe, have fucceeded them. It is hazardous to pafs the night on this fhore, before the equinoctial rains have fallen. Walking acrofs the ifthmus, between cape Pro- cida and the Baian hills, you will come to lake Fufaro, otherwife called Lago delta Cotuccia. This- alfo is valuable for its fifheries, and the flocks of water-fowl which blacken its furface. Near the canal by which it difcharges itfelf into the fea, they (how you the ruins of the tomb of Caius Marius. The whole country from Puzzuoli, along the gulph of Baise to Capo Mifeno, is nothing but craters and other remains of volcanos. Avernus, Solfatara, and Monte Nuovo, give a complete idea of extinct volcanos. Avernus is filled with water; Solfatara is hot, and fmokes with fulphureous and aluminous fleams : Monte nuovo is ftill hot in places, its crater is very deep, quite dry, and fcarcely fmoking at all. In fine weather, nothing can be more delight- ful than to coaft the gulph of Baiae. This you may do, by hiring a boat either at Naples or Puzzuoli. If at the firff, foon after you have doubled the cape of Paufilipo, ycu will fee the ruins of many ancient buildings ; among others, thofe commonly called the Schools of Virgil, which were ENVIRONS OF NAPLES, 1 299 were probably part of a villa of Lucullus. Hence you will come to picturefque quarries of puzzo- lana : and, leaving the ifland of Nifidaon the left, you will arrive at Puzzuoli ; where you may dif- embark, and furvey the lakes, craters, &c. already defer ibed. The lazaretto is at Nifida. Continuing your route from Puzzuoli, along the gulph, you will obferve prodigious founda- tions of buildings, at the bottom of the fea, into which we know the opulent Romans extended their fumptuous edifices, in and about Baiae. You may coaft it by Bauli, till you come to the promontory of Mifenum ; furveying the feveral ruins before mentioned, the Elyfian* fields, 8cc. as you go along. Thus may you view the whole of this interefting country with little fatigue, and with the enjoyment of a mo ft delightful voyage, in the fineft bay, and the moft delicious climate that can be defired* Having now feen every thing to the weftward of Naples *, you will proceed to the oppofite fide, which is no lefs interefting, on account of Vefu- vius, Herculaneum, Pompeii, and the mufeum at Portici. In order to furvey mount Vesuvius, you go either to Portici or Refma, little more than four * Unlefs you extend your voyage to the illands of Procita and Ifchia, which lie off the cape of Mifenum, and are well worth the trouble of a vifit. i miles 300 ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. VESUVIUS. miles from the extremity of Naples; and there you may hire mules and guides. When you have rode as far as you can, you will proceed on foot, the guides affifting you in the afcent, by fattening a girdle round you, and pulling you along ; un- lefs you prefer trufting to your own ftrength aided by a good ftaff ; which you will find much bet- ter. The cone of the mountain is covered with loofe allies and cinders ; it is therefore very fatigu- ing to afcend it, for you fink up to the knees, and go two fteps backwards for every three that you let: the way to get forwards is not to be in a hurry, but to go on gently, and often to take breath. After all, you will find it great labour, without much inttruction or amufement, for in general you will not be able to difcern much of the crater : however, favourable circumftances may perhaps allow you a peep into the fiery gulph ; or at leaft if the weather fhould be fine, the view of the furrounding country may pay you for your trouble. To a naturalift, a furvey and fcrutiny of the feveral ttreams of lava that have flowed from this volcano will be much more to the pur- pofe. Some of thefe ftreams are fix or feven miles in length, and have loft themfelves in the fea ; whilft others, arretted in their courfe, have accumulated in the vallies. There are Ihops, both at Portici and Naples, where fpecimens of all the varieties of lava, and of the other fub- ftancesj ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. PORTICI. 3OI fiances, which are thrown out in the eruptions, both rough and polifhed, may be feen and pur- chafed. It will take an hour and half to go from Portici to the foot of the cone; little more than an hour to afcend it ; and about half that time to come down again. Vefuvius is computed to meafure 24 miles round at its bafe, and to be 3694 feet perpendi- cular height above the level of the fea. It is ac- companied by two other mountain Sj called Somma and Ottayano ; which probably made one moun- tain with Vefuvius. The fpace of valley between them is called Atrio di Cavallo, and forms an area three miles long, and about 370 toifes wide : this is loaded with accumulated lava, and other volca- nic fubftances *. It is at Portici, in a wing of the royal palace, that the fuperb Mufeum of antiques, found at Herculaneum and Pompeii, is depofeed. To view this, it is neceflary to have permiffion from the king himfelf; and this is obtained by means of the ambaffador. Only one company is admitted at the fame time ; and nobody is fuffered to make fketches, or obfervations in writing. * It feems unneceffary to fay more on a fubjeft, on which fo much has been faid, and fo well, by Sir William Hamilton. See his letters in the Philofophical Tranfaclions, which are alfo printed in a little volume by themfelves. - Many £02 ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. PORT I CI° Many flatties have been found ; and above 156 are engraved in the Antiquities publimed at the expence of his Sicilian majefty : they are moftly of bronze, and the greatefr fhare of merit is al- lowed to a Mercury fitting, the fize of life; a Jupiter, larger than life \ wrelllers ; a drunken and fleeping Faun : and in the glafs cafes are abundance of lares and panthei; fmall ftatnes in the fame metal. There are however two fine equeftrian ftatues in marble, of the two Balbi, father and fon ; a ftatue of Ciria, the wife of the cider, and mother of the younger Balbus ; and fome others of inferior note. The bufls fill feveral rooms, and many of them are of the beft greek workmanlhip — Plato, Scipio, and Seneca, are among the finefl. Few rare medals have been found ; the mod curious is a gold one of Auguftus, ftruck in Sicily, in the 15th year of his reign, fome of Vitellius, a triumph of Titus, and one of Vefpafian with Judaa capta. But this mufeum pofleffes not only ftatues and bufts, intaglios and cameos, medals, altars and inferiptions, which make the whole boaft of others, but an entire af- fortment of ancient domeftic utenfils, fuch as tri- pods of elegant form, and exquifite workmanfhip, lamps in endlefs variety, candelabres or ftands for lamps of the moft elegant (hapes, filver ftrainers nicely worked, vafes and bafins of ample dimen- fions, fcales for weighing, with variety of weights, mirrors ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. PORTICI. 3O3 mirrors of poliflied metal, elegant cups and faucers in filver, fhells and marks for pattry, fpoons, but nothing like forks ; utenfils for the baths, as brufhes, ftrigils, phials for oils and perfumes ; tefTera? or ivory tickets for the theatre, dies for playing, fome of them loaded ; all the apparatus for writing, as ftyles, tablets, &c. a kitchen completely fitted up with bronze pots and pans, fome lined with filver, kettles, citterns for heating water, and every utenfil for culinary purpofes a lady's toilet, fully furnilhed, with combs, thim- bles, rings, paint, ear-rings, bracelets, pias for the hair, &c. : here is alfo a complete fet of the chirurgical inttruments in ufe among the ancients; many inttruments of mufic, fuch as flutes, fiftrums, lyres* cymbals, and crotali; altars, cenfers, pa- teras, and other appurtenances of facrifice ; a fine leftifterniunii or couch, confecrated to the gods ; a curule chair of bronze found in the theatre at Her- culaneum: helmets, fhields, and all forts of arms* fcrews, locks, keys, latches, bolts, hinges, and nails. Almoft every thing of iron was deftroyed by ruft 1 a gridiron was one of the moft perfect utenfils difcovered of that metal : various utenfils in glafs ; and coloured glafs fo hard, clear, and well ftained, as to appear like precious ftones ; many of which that are genuine have appeared, fet in gold very clumfily for rings, as amethyfts, emeralds, onyxes, cornelians, &c. but no dia- monds ; £C4 ENVIRONS Of NAPLES. PORTIC'I. monds; abundance of intaglios and cameos; little bottles, &x. of cryflal : nets, balls of thread, gold lace, colours for painting ; the meafure of a Roman foot s inftruments of hufbandry, little bells which they hung about the necks of their cattle, letters in metal for marking, &c. Various forts of eatables, retaining their forrrij though burnt to a cinder ; as corn, flour, bread, of which there is a loaf nine inches in diameter and four in height : a pye or tourte about a foot in diameter in its pan ; wheat, peas, almonds, dates, beans, nuts, figs, grapes, eggs, fifh, oil, and wine. The floors of the rooms which contain thefe venerable relics of antiquity, referved in the bowels of the earth, fafe from the ravages of time and barba- rians, during feventeen centuries, are paved with moft beautiful antique mofaics. The learned thought that they had made a more valuable acquifition than ftatues and pic- tures, when near 800 volumes of manufcripts were found : but the difficulty of unrolling thefe cal- cined volumes, of pafting the fragments, and de- cyphering the letters, has proved fuch an obftacle, that very little progrefs has been made in the work. The method of proceeding, invented by Padre Antonio Piaggi, is dropped, and the manufcripts lie neglected. One volume, which was completely- unrolled, was found to be a greek treatile on the bad effects of mufic in a republic. The ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. HEkCULANEtlM. 3O5 The paintings are to be feen in another part of the palace. There are near 700, moft of them fmall, and reprefenting fingle female figures, cen- taurs, 8cc. on dark grounds ; cupids or winged genii in a variety of amufements or employments ; arabefques, animals, fruits, vafes, fliells, whim* fical buildings, &c. Some of them however are large hiftorical pieces : two of the moft remark- able are Thefeus with the Minotaur dead at his feet ; and the finding of Telephus, with two figures of Flora and Hercules. The compofkion andxle- fign of thefe pictures, it muft be confefled, 'are in general very indifferent, not to fay any thing of colouring, which may have fuffered : the fmall pieces of fruit, animals, arabefques, and fancy fubje&s, are the beft, They are moftly painted a tempera, or in diftemper, as we call it ; and in order to preferve them, they have been fawed from the walls, framed with iron, backed with flare, and glazed. The royal, palace is fpacious, and well fituated ; open on one fide to the fea, on the other to a large garden, and wildernefs of evergreen oaks, with the mountain in the back ground. Refina is moft immediately over the city of Her* culaneum, Portici however is over fome parts of it; a circumftance the modern inhabitants little dreamed of till the accidental difcoveries at the beginning of this century. So far back as the X year 306 E N VI RONS OF NAPLES. HERCULANEUM. year 1689 f° me infcriptions and other things were found, which gave a fufpicion that Herculanenm and Pompeii, which were known from Pliny's account to have been overwhelmed in the erup- tion of the year 79, were hereabouts; but -the works which were carried on by the prince d'Elbeuf, in the year 1718, put the matter out of all doubt. The firft intelligence we received in England of thefe difcoveries was in the year I732; and the firft excavations which were made by order of his Sicilian majefty, were in the year 1738. The city of Hcrculaneum was found not to have been overwhelmed by a ftream of lava, but buried in afhes, &c. hardened into a tufo - 9 fix ftream s however of lava have, fince flowed over it : the pavements alio, both of this city and Pompeii, are of lava, and ftrata of volcanic fubftances are found under both : the ftreets were feen to be ilraight, with raifed footways on each fide : the infides of the rooms were generally painted a tern- pcra. ri The principal buildings difcovered at Her- culanenm were the Forum or Chalcidicum, a court 228 feet long, and 132 broad, furrounded with a periftile of 42 columns. The ftatues of the Balbi, and many others, were found- here. This build- ing communicated by means of a portico with two temples-, one of them 150 feet in length, by 60 in breadth *, the other only 60 by 42. The The- atre has 21 rows of feats difpofed in a femicircle of 160 ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. POMPEII. 3O7 160 feet diameter, the ftage is a rectangle of 72 feet by 30, with architectural decorations, and marble columns in the profcenium. The theatre is kept difembarraffed of rubbifh, and there is a commodious defcent to it : all the reft is filled in again, and no excavations are now going for- ward at Herculaneum. Pompeii is twelve or thirteen miles from Na- ples, in the fame road ; pafling through the two villages of 'Torre del Greco, and Torre del Annonziata. The lava has more than once reached the former : the latter is very near the ancient Pompeii. They begun to dig here in the year 1755; and this town being fo diftant from Vefuvius, it was cover- ed in fome parts twenty, but in general only from twelve to fifceen feet ; and that chiefly with the lighted materials, afhes and pumice (tones. This induced the king to dig here, rather than at Her- culaneum, which is buried very deep, and in ma- terials much more difficult to penetrate. You enter the place by the barracks for the gar- rifon : a portico runs round a fquare court, fup- ported by ftone pillars, ftuccoed and painted : the foldiers amufed themfelves with drawing fi- gured and writing their names upon the plafter. Neari:he wall, at this angle, lie fragments of an old Doric temple, of much higher antiquity than the reft of the town. One opening difplays fome houfes, part of a ftreet, and a temple of I lis. The X 2 architecture 308 ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. POMPEII. architecture of this is flight ; the walls are covered with ornaments in ftucco, executed in a coarfe manner : the infcriptions and paintings have been cut out of this, and other buildings, and removed to Portici for greater fafety ; but they have left cliiagreeable vacancies, that disfigure the walls. The penetrale of the temple is a fmall pavilion, raifed upon fteps, under which is a vault, fuppof- ed to have ferved the purpofes of oracular im po- rtion. The ftatue of the goddefs was fled from her pedeftal ; but a variety of inftruments and utenfils for the facred ceremonies were found here^ and alfo fome fkeletons of her priefts. One can- not but wifh that they had left the temple as they found it ; with all its furniture and paintings. Hence you go through vineyards, to where they have laid open part of a principal ftreet, one of the city gates, a length of wall, fome tombs, and a road without the gate. The walls are built with large pieces of lava in regular counes, and the ftreets are paved with the fame material. Car- riage wheels have worn traces in the pavement, from which we may obferve, that the diftance be* tween the wheels in the Roman carriages was four feet; and this ftreet being ten feet wide, there was juft room for two of them to pafs each other: there is a foot-way raifed high on each fide, three feet in breadth. In ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. POMPEII. 309 In the ftreet fome of the houfes advance be- fore, while others retire behind the line; the ma- terials of which they are conftru&ed are limeftone and calcareous concretions from the Apennines ; lava, tufo, and pumice. The Ihops have ftone feats before them, and over their doors fometimes emblems of their trade in relievo. The houfes are fmall, and built round courts, from which all the apartments are lighted ; in the centre of the court is a grate to carry off the water. The walls of the rooms are ftuccoed, and painted in a pretty light tafte, with feftoons and garlands, mafks, animals, fruits, landfcapes, and capricious archi- tecture, on brown, orange, and other ftrong- coloured grounds. The rooms are fmall, many of them without any light but through the door : the windows were moftly clofed with wooden fhutters ; fome few had glafs, which was very thick, and far from tranfparent ; others had felenites or ifinglafs fplit into thin plates. They have lately difcovered rooms of greater extent, adorned with various paintings. In one of them was found the corpfe of a female with golden bracelets. On each fide of the highway, leading towards the fea are tombs. That of the Terentian family is uncovered : it confifts of a fquare court, on the walls of which are placed the fkulls of animals fa- crificed in funeral ceremonies, and large mafks with weeping countenances and hollow eyes : the X 3 pile 310 ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. POMPEII. pile on which the bodies were confumed, (lands in the centre of the court, near a tower, where the urns were placed in niches. The greateft curiofity out of the town, is a fu- burban villa, exactly in the fame ftate, except that the roof is beaten in, as it was on the day of the eruption. It confifts of four levels; name- ly, the cellars, a ground-floor with its portico or cloifter ; and as it was on a ftecp declivity, a court above, in which was the flreet door, and over that a floor for bed-chambers. Like the houfes in the eaft, it prefents nothing to the road but a bare wall; the windows being all towards the garden. From the town you enter by a court, furrounded with (luceoed columns adjoining is a triangular area, diftributed into alcoves and clo- fets for baths. From this floor a terrace projects on each fide, round a large fquare: and under it is a broad gallery, and covered apartments, for fummer refidence : on each fide, under the ter- races, runs a portico, meeting oppofite the houfe in a hall, that probably opened into the vineyard or pleafure-grounds. Flere was found the fkele- ton of the matter, with the houfe key, and a purfe of gold. The cellars (till contain feveral ampho- ras, ranged along the walls ; and the bones of many wretches, who fled hither for fheher. The tellings and walls of the rooms in this villa were adorned with a variety of painting: and in the win- do w ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. C ASERT A. 3II dow of a bedchamber fome panes of glafs are Hill remaining. Stabia is near CaftelV a mare-, it was fvvallowed up at the fame time with the two others, and was the fmalleft of the three; indeed it feems rather to have been a firing of country houfes than a town. It was firft difcovered about the year 1750. An earthquake feems to have damaged the houfes before they were covered, and the hot allies had confumed every thing combuftible : few excava- tions therefore were made here, and thefe were filled in again. t You are now on your way to Paeftum, or Peflo, anciently PofTidonia. You go by Nocera to Sa- lerno, where you may hire a boat for Pefto, thirty miles diftant. This was a colony of Dorians; and few cities have left fuch noble monuments of their architecture. There are fuperb ruins of fe- veraP temples, which are of the fame kind of doric as thofe in Sicily. Another excurfion from Naples is to Caferta, fixteen miles diftant. Here the late king, after- wards king of Spain, erected a prodigious palace, from defigns by Vanvitelli. It is built of brick, and the two principal fronts are 787 feet in length, and contain five ftories of thirty-feven windows each: the two other fides are 616 feet long. Within are four courts; and in the centre of the palace is a fuperb ftaircafe, crowned by a- circular £ 4 hall, 312 ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. CASERTA, &C. hall, which affords a communication to every fet of apartments. There is a profufion of the richeft marbles every where. The chapel is incrufted with pannels of yellow marble : the paintings by Conca are bad ; but there is a beautiful prefenta- tion of the Virgin, by Mcngs. The theatre is a very fine one ; antique columns of alabafter fup- port the roof, and divide the houfe into forty- two boxes, richly decorated. The gardens are very cxtenfive, but refemble the formal infipid fcenes of Le Notre with wide fultry allies, and crowded rows of ftatues. The aqueduct for fupplying the palace has three {lories of arcades, of which the upper one is divided into forty-three arches : the work is plain but ilrong: from hence the water is carried in a chan- nel to the cafcade, and paffes under Caferta vec- chia. The laft and prefent monarchs have ex- pended large fums in embellifliing the environs ; but it is placed in a hole, and is infected by nox- ious vapours, arifing from ftagnant water in the ditches, that furround the rich meadows in the neighbourhood. In fine weather it will be a pleafant voyage to the illand of Capri, anciently Caprea, eighteen miles fouth of Naples, at the entrance of the gulph. Tiberius fpent ten years here in the moft beaftly debaucheries. Where the ifland is not rock, the foil is very rich ; and every fpot that 7 wil) NAPLES. MANUFACTORIES. 313 will admit it, is induftrioufly tilled. They catch annually from twelve to fixty thoufand quails ; and one year 1 6o,ooo were netted. The accom- modations at the inn are very bad; the ifland however unites fuch a variety of beauties, the fcenery is fo charming, the climate fo fine, the fruits fo excellent, that it is well worth the atten- tion of a traveller. In Naples there are feveral manufaftories of filk, Velvets, velverets, handkerchiefs, and {lockings ; their fope is much efleemed; they alfo make li- queurs, efTences, diavoloni, artificial flowers, and abundance of excellent macaroni : the beft mu il- eal firings are made here, from the inteflines of lambs, feven or eight months old: there is a manufactory of tortoifefhell, which they inlay cu- rioufly with gold, for fnuff-boxes, and a variety of other articles ; and they carry on a conlidera- fcle commerce in polifhed marbles and lavas. The weather is very uncertain, with much wind and wet during winter. Though confumptive people refort to Naples, yet this is a frequent dif- eafe here, and the climate is probably unfavour- able to it, from the want of movement in the bay, the height of the hills behind the city, and the fudden tranfitions from heat to cold SEC- * There * s a httle Guida de' Fcraftieri for the city, and ano^ ther for the environs : indifferent enough. But a defcription of ( 3'4 ) SECTION IX. Return to Rome, and journey from thence to Florence. Before you quit Naples, you muft have a pafTport, and order for poft-horfes, which you will obtain by application to the Britifh ambalTa- dor. It will alfo be convenient, to write to your banker or correfp&ndent at Rome, for a lafcia- pajfare to meet you at the gate of the city, to avoid your being obliged to drive to the dogma or cuf- tom-houfe, in order to have your baggage fear died. It will be worth your while to return by monte Cajjino, to fee the noble convent of Benedictines. The road, which is bad in winter, pafTes by Capua, Toricello, Cujanello, San-Vittore, and San Ger~ mano ; and the convent is about fixty miles from Naples. It is fituated on a high mountain, and the hofplce of the abbey will furnifli you with mules for the afcent. The community conhfts of near eighty religious, all of noble birth : the Ab- bot is chofen for fix years, and by his office is firft of the city, Sec. has lately been publimed by Dr. Giufeppe Sigifmondo, in 3 volumes 8vo. Sir William Hamilton has done much for the volcanic hiftory of the neighbourhood ; and I have had frequent obligations to Mr. Swinburn's excellent travels, in the foregoing account. The bell hiftory of Naples is by Giannonc. Baron NAPLES TO ROME^ 3 I g Baron of the kingdom of Naples. The convent looks down on thirty-fix villages, which, with the adjacent lands, belong to it ; befides various pof^ feffions in Calabria, &c. Every traveller has a claim to bed and board for three days, in propor- tion to his rank. The monks are at liberty to go any where within the limits of Italy. You pafs through three courts before you arrive at the . Church, than which nothing can be more rich and fplendid ; or in a worfe tafte, both as to the architecture and incruftation : the paintings are by Lanfranco, Luca Giordano, Solimene, and Conca. In the convent are paintings by Raffa- elle, Annibale Carracci, and other great mailers, and fome of Luca Giordano and Solimene's bell performances. If you give up this deviation, and are not fond of a fea voyage, you will return by the road you came : or if you did not make an excurfion from Naples on purpofe, you may take the royal pa- lace of Caferta in your way. Hence you may vifit the ruins of ancient Capua, and fo return into the direct road to Rome. Ancient Capua is two miles and a half from the modern town. The principal ruin here is an amphitheatre; the lower order tufcan, with a doric over it : the architecture appears clumfy in its pre- fent imperfect ftate: it was built of brick, faced with itone or marble ; but the facing is all carried off : there 3 1 6 NAPLES TO ROME. there were four entrances to it. There is alfo a double arcade, fuppofed to have been a gate. The country from Naples to Mola is generally flat ; beyond this, the road afcends the calcareous Apennines. They ftretch to Terracina, which has a harbour well fituated in a fine gulph, fhel- tercd by high mountains againft the north winds; and the country about abounds in corn, vines, pomegranates, lemons, &c. If you go by Pi- perno, buffaloes will drag you up the mountain ; and you will fee many of thefe animals feeding in the fwamps of the Pontine marflhes. From Pi- perno you have a long, rough, and ftony defcent^ till you come within a few miles of Sermoneta, where the country begins to be flat, with the marines on the left, and the Apennines on the right. A fulphureous fmell arifing from feveral hot fprings near the road, is very offenfive, efpe- cially in hot weather, when the mephitic air of the marfhes renders this part of the country un- wholefome, and even dangerous for travellers. The innkeeper and his family at Sermoneta bear teftimony to this by their yellow looks. Since the new road has been made, all travellers go from Terracina acrofs the Pontine marines. Beyond Sermoneta the Apennines run more to the right. After defcending the mountain of Veletri, the road goes by la Faiola and Marino: then de- fcendi ROME TO FLORENCE, 3 1 7 fcends fuddcnly into the plain which extends tQ Rome. Rome to Florence. You will probably reft yourfelf at Rome, and fee once more fome of the fine things which ftruck vou mod before you quit it finally for Florence. Your road will now be by Viterbo and Siena*, and is more interefting to the naturalift than pica- fant to the traveller. From Rome to Ponte Molle the road lies* through a valley between the Fincian and Marian hills, which would not be unplealing, were it not for the difmai profpeel: of bare walls and planta- tions of reeds. The country to Baccano is broken into pleafant inequalities; and the foil is generally good : there are few parts of Europe however that lie fo mifer- ably neglected ; and about Baccano they are poi- foned by the Itagnant waters of the lake. The road for feveral miles lies upon the ancient Cafiian vvay, which is well preferved but in very few places : the word road imaginable is an old broken Roman caufeway. Volcanic tufo hills continue to Monte Rofi ; beyond that a lava torrent. Near Ronciglione a beautiful deep valley, with pi&u- refque romantic views. The town is the beft in this parr of the papal territories, both with refpedt to fituation and buildings, which are of tufo ftuc- cocd. Between Ronciglione and the mountain of Viterbo, SlS ROM E 10 F LORE N C H. Viiciho, anciently mom Ciminus, you travel by the lake ot Vico, a fine body of water, for three miles : it is encompatfed by hills, clothed with beautiful woods. The mountain confifts of various volcanic fubilunccs, accumulated without order. That there is fome richnefs in the foil of the moun- tain is evident from the noble plantations of oaks, chefnuts, and beeches, with which it is covered. Viterbo is a pretty town, fituated in a plain, at the foot of the mountain : feveral fquare lofty towers produce an agreeable effect at a diftance. It is well built, the houfes are in a good tafte, there are fome pretty fountains, and fome fronts of churches in a good ftyle of architecture. The ftreets are paved wholly with lava in pieces from four to eight feet in length : and the population is eftimated at io ? oco. The churches beft worth feeing are the Cathedral, and thofe of Santa Rofa and S. Francefco : in the latter there is a dead Chrift, &c. by Sebaftiano del Piombo, painted from a defign of Michelangelo's. Beyond Viter- bo, to the left, is a lake of hot water, with a ful- phureous fmell. The country to Montefiafcone has a melancholy face ; time has not yet melio : rated the volcanic matter by the rotting of vege- tables. Montefiafcone (lands upon a very proud emi- nence, commanding an immeafurable profpecT:, and appearing at a diftance like a metropolis, as it was, ROME TO FLORENCE. 3I9 was, in fact, in ancient times ; but as we approach it, we difcover it to be a poor mean town, which would fcarcely be known were it not for the muf- cat wines in its neighbourhood. There are few fpots in Italy which furnifti more delicious and magnificent fcenes than the en- virons of Bolfena, which (lands upon the ruins of the ancient Volfwium, one of the chief cities of Etrnria ; but is now no more than a comtemptible village; in which nothing is to be feen but an antique farcophagus in the church-yard. Near it there is a fine lake thirty miles in cir- cumference, which was anciently the crater of a volcano; and oppoiite to this, clofe to the road, is a remarkable hill, covered with regular prif- matic bafaltine columns, mod of them (landing obliquely, and a confiderable length out of the ground : they are generally hexagonal, and flat at both ends : this hill is noticed by Kircher * At no very great diftance from Bolfena is Or-vieto. The Cathedral is a very fine gothic building ; the front at lealt as beautiful as that of Siena, and very rich in fculpture and mofaic. Nicola Pifano had fome hand in it as a fculptor, but not as an architect. It contains a great deal both of fculpture and paint- ing within. Of the latter, a chapel painted by Signorelli, with the laft judgment, is moft remarkable, particularly becaufe Mi- chelangelo ufed to ftudy it. Of the fculpture a Pieta, or dead Chrift in the lap of the Virgin, is moft admired. The wines of this place, Montefiafcone and Montepulciano, are in great efteem. The road is fo rocky, that it will be nece/Tary to make this excurfion on horfeback. In 320 ROME TO FLORENCE. In the tufo hills near S. Lorenzo delle grotte are a great number of artifical caverns, which were pro- bably formed at firft by digging puzzolana, and now ferve as flickers for cattle or implements of hufoandry. The prefent Pope has benevolently caufed the old town to be demolifhed, on account of the malaria which reigns there, and has built a new one very handfomely at the top of the hill. Acquapendentc takes its name from an inconflder- able ftream tumbling down a rock ; there are many ruins on every fide of the town, and abun- dance of tufo and cinders. The foil all the way from Rome to this place is volcanic ; from hence to Siena are moftly hills of marl. The mountain of Radicofani however is an ifolate volcanic rock, furrounded in the valley with marl, but no allies or puzzolana : on the other fide of this valley is another volcanic moun- tain flill higher, called S. Flore. The town of Ra- dicofani is on the top of the mountain, and has a fmall garrifon, in the caftle : the inn large, cold, and uncomfortable; not in the town, but below it. Hence to language fpoken in the greater!: purity. It is alfo within a moderate diftance both of Rome and Florence : the houfes are built of brick, and the ftreets are paved with it. The population of Siena amounts to fixteen or feventeen thoufand, and it is near five miles in circuit. The city ftill retains a (hadow at lead of thofe rights which it enjoyed, whilft an indepen- dent ftate, before it formed a part of the duchy of Tufcany. Siena is particularly agreeable in the hot feafon, on account of its lofty fituation and falubrious air, It has produced many famous painters, architects, and poets : the nobility are as diftinguifhed as any in Italy, and have a CaJJino, or Affembly of both fexes. was anciently called Clufium, the metropolis of Porfena, but is now a miferable town, containing about a thoufand inhabitants, and dignified with the title of a Biflioprick, of not more than 150 pounds a year. Not far on the right are the Bagni di S* Filippo, the waters of which depoiit a fine calcareous tufo, which is precipitated on moulds from medals, bas-reliefs, &c, and makes moft beautiful imprefiions, •i ' Y The 32fc ROME TO FLORENCE. SIEtfA; The Duomo, or Cathedral, is a fine gotLiC building of black and white marble. The great portal was begun in 1284, after the defigns of Giovanni da Pifa, and finilhed in 1333 by Agof- tino, and Agnolo, Sienefe architects. The front is prodigioufly loaded with ornaments. All the work of the irifide is mod highly finiihed, as the carving in wood of the choir; the fculpture in marble of the pulpit, and efpecially the hiftorical engraving of the 'pavement, reprefenting in chiaro- ofcuro the mod remarkable ftories of the Old and New Teftament. In the Chigi Chapel are two ftatues by Bernini, S. Jerom, and the Magdalen ; alfo eight columns of verd-antique. The Benitier is handfome •, as is likewife the pulpit; and the bas-reliefs, efpecially of the ftaircafe, are admirable. The two pictures by Carlo Maratti have fuffered. At the end of the church. Efther before Aha- fuerus. Children of Ifrael gathering manna; com- panions, by Salimbeni. The Afcenfion in fix pictures, by Beccafumi. Altar in fifteen pieces, by Duccio Buoninfegna. Virgin, Child, S. Peter, and S. Paul, by Raffaelle Vanni. In a round chapel. Statue of S. John Baptift, by Donatello — feveral paintings by Pinturicchio, Sori, and Trevifano. Ancient oftagon marble pulpit, by Nic. and Giov. da Pi&j with baffo- relievos, in 1267. 1 Baptifter/ ROME TO FLORENCE. SIENA. ^Ij Baptiftery under the cnoir : ceiling in frefco, by Ambrogio Lorenzetti. And before the entrance into the choir are four large frefcos, by Ventura di Arcangiolo Salimbeni. In the chapel of S. John are feveral good ftatues* the beft of which li S. John, by Donatello. In the left tranfept is a vaulted room, called the Library. There remain now no other books befides forty large folio volumes of church mulic in manufcript on velum, finely illuminated, by a Benedi&ine Monk of Monte Caffino. The Spa- niards carried off all the reft. In the middle of this room, on a pedeftal, ftands a group of the Graces in white marble ; it is mutilated, and the middle Grace is without a head. This was once reckoned the firiefi: antique in the world. The greateft curiofity in this library is a fet of ten large pictures in frefco, in fine prefervation and frefhnefs tif colouring* by Pinturicchio : the fubject is the life of Pope Pius II *. The church of the Aaguftins is a very handfome modern building, by Vanvitelli. The paintings are — the Adoration of the Shep- herds, by Romanelli. An ArTumption, or a,bifhop and faint, praying to the Virgin in the clouds, by * It is faid Raffaelle gave the defigns for fome of them, and even aflifted Pinturicchio a little in the execution. Vafari (ays he made either the Iketches, or the cartons; for them all. -y % Carlo 324 ROME TO FLORENCE. SIENA. Carlo Maratri. Oppofite to this a piece by Pietro Perugino, of Chrift on the crofs, with feveral faints kneeling at the foot of it. The church of the Dominicans is remarkable for a very ancient picture on wood, reprefenting the Virgin with the infant Jefus in her arms, by Gu'nh Sanefe : it is dated 1221, and is in the Venturini chapel. Though fo ancient, it is ftill in good pre- fervation. In the fame chapel are two pictures, on the fides. Vafari mentions a Madonna painted by the fame Guido, in the Oratorio delta campagn'ui di S.Bernardino; pictures in the Capitolo, or chapter- houfe of the Auguftins, by Ambrogio Sanefe ; and a Madonna over the door of the Duomo, by Shnont Memmi, In the church of S. Quirico is a flight into Egypt, and an Ecce Homo, by Francefco Vanni. A defcent from the crofs, by Aleflandro CafTolani. Crowning Chrift with thorns : Ventura Salimbeni. Nailing him to the crofs : by Sori. In 5. Martino: the circumcifion, by Guido — In S. Maria in Provenzano, a holy family, by Andrea del Sarto. At & Francefco, the pope blelnng a cardinal, by Calabrefe; S. Martini, by Pietro da Cortona. At San- Spirit 0 and Santa Catherina, many pieces, by Sienefe painters. 11 Carmine. Annunciation, by Fr. Vanni. Fall of the angels, by Dom. Beccafumi. Virgin, child, and faints, by Bernardo Fungari. 15 12. 5 o. Agojlino. ROME TO FLORENCE. SIENA. 325 5". Agojlino, Chrift on the crofs, furrounded by faints and angels, by Pietro Perugino. Adoration of the Magi. Sodoma. Chrift bearing his crofs, by Alelf. Cafolani and Ventura Salimbeni. Virgin, Chrift, and faints, by Carlo Maratti. Camaldules out of the city. Chrift on the crofs, furrounded by faints and angels, the moft capital work of Fr. Vanni. The Univerfity has feveral learned profeflbrs. The library and mufeum are common to this, and the Academia Filico-critica, which has pub- lifhed four volumes in quarto, under the title of Atti dell' Accademia di Siena* There are four or five other academies in this city. In the hofpital of S. Maria delta Scala, in the chapel, is a fine large frefco of the pool of Be- thefda, by Sebaftian Conca. The Palazzo Publico , or Guildhall, is in a place or open area, in form of a Ihell. There are many ancient frefcos in it : thofe in the Sala della pace by Ambrogio Lorenzetto, are worn out, and feem never to have been good for any thing. This is the cafe alfo with thofe in Sala di Conjiglio, by Simone di Lorenzo and Simone Memmi. The frefcos in the chapel and anti-chapel, by Taddeo Bartoli, are damaged, and not extraordinary. There is a painting at the altar by Sodoma, of the holy family with S. Antony. In the Sala di Balia, Y 3 the 326 ROME TO FLORENCE. SIENA. the life of Pope Alexander III. is painted in frefco by old matters In the Sala del Confiftorio> the ceiling painted by Beccafumi, is well executed, and yet in good prefervation. The fubjects of thefe frefcos are fome Greek and Roman hiftories, with ornaments between them. In this room is the judgment of Solomon, by Luca Giordano ; the Affumption of the Virgin, by Vanni ; and many portraits. The Theatre is a part of this palace; it was burnt down in 1742 and 1751, and has been re- built in a handfome manner, with four rows of boxes, and twenty-one in each row. The territory of Siena comprehends eight towns, and two hundred boroughs, villages, &c. It has; * This life of Alexander III. is extremely curious. It con- filts of fixteen pieces, four large and twelve fmaller, arched at top — they are valuable, not only as fpecimens of the ftyle of painting in Italy at a very early period, but becaufe they give iis the arms, weapons, mips, manner of fighting, and in fhort the whole cojiume of the age in which they were painted, more completely than they would be obtained from any thing elfe now exifting in the world. It is not well made out who was the author of thefe pictures — from their ftyle he was evidently of the fchool of Giotto. They are painted in Chiaro-ofcuro (if I miftake not) in imitation of relievos, and perhaps may be the " ftoria di verde terra," which Vafari fays Ambrogio Jjorenzetti painted in this palace, though he fpeaks of eight Only, and here are fixteen. Pecci fays, I know not upon what authority, that they were begun by Martino di Bartolomeo da Siena, and finifhed afterwards by Spinello di Luca and his fons, painters of Arezzo, in 1407. — I never heard of this Martino. K. been ROME TO FLORENCE. VOLTERRA. 327 been defcribed by two celebrated naturalifts, Micheli and Targioni. Their marbles are well known. The Maremma of Siena, formerly fo fruitful and populous, now lies wafte and unpeopled. Volterra is not a great way from Siena. Since the removal of Ricciarelli's famous daughter of the innocents to Florence, it does not poffefs a great deal to attraft the attention of a connoiffeur. Its iituation however, the fingularity of the country about it, and the views it prefents, are very ftrik- ing. Moft of the churches abound with the works of the old Tufcan painters *. The * Cathedral, Birth of the Virgin, by Corrado. Prefentation, by Naldini. A faint on his knees, by Matteo RolTelli. Refurrection of Lazarus, by Santi di Tito 0 Virgin and faints, Pietro Candido. Converlion of St. Paul, by Domenichino. In a chapel adjoining. Annunciation, by Luca Signorelli. S, Agojiino. Virgin and child, S. John, S. Jerom, S. Auftin, and another faint, by Pietro di Cortona. S. Antonio* Virgin, child and faints, by Ghirlandaio : pver it is the Deity in a pediment with two Cherubims. Badia di Padri Camaldolejt. Ceiling and whole figures on the wall, by P. Volterrano. Nativity — Virgin — and dead Chrift, by the fame. Y 4 S.Romualdo j28 ROME TO FLORENCE. The whole road from Siena to Florence is one of the moft charming in Tufcany ; the country being S. Romualdo and other faints, by Ghirlandaio. Jofeph and the angel, by Volterrano. S. Chiara. Virgin, child and faints, by Bald. Francefchini detto Volter- rano. Compagnia di S. Croce. Entirely painted in frefco, by Cenno di Ser Cenni. Dcfcent from the crofs, by il RoiTo. S. Dome ni co, Pi&ures by Giovanni Angelica. S. Trancefco. Virgin and child on a throne, accompanied with faints, by Luca Signorelli ! In a Chapel bey$nd the Sacrijly. S. Paul and S. Louis of Tours, by the fame. Compagnia di Geju, Chrift giving bread to his difciples. Adoration of the fhepherds, AfTumption of the Virgin. Holy family, and S. Onofrio. All by Luca Signorelli. The four Evangelifts, whole figures, fmall o&agons — the laft fupper — Chrift in the garden ; long pi&ures. The annunci- ation, in two pieces ; by Vafari. Gefu e Maria. Two Angels, on the wall, by Daniele di Volterra. S. Margaret a. Dead Chrift, &c. ten figures, by Luca Signorelli. Pieve, or Fefco that perfons may often fleep abroad without danger. The autumn here is generally wet ; and this city is a bad refidence in winter, on account of the fouth-eafl or fczrocco, and north, which blow often on the fame day ; and fubject the inhabitants to inflammations in the breafl and lungs. Florence therefore is belt in fummer, when the atmofphere about it is efleemed very fa- lubrious. The Arno divides the city into two unequal parts ; it is about 140 yards wide, and navigable for fmall veffels. In the mid ft of fummer it often wants water ; and in winter it frequently overflows its banks. There are four {lone bridges over it : that called tl ponte delta 'Trinita was built by Am- rnanati, and is very elegant : the arches are cy-~ cloidal. The Cathedral church, called Santa Maria del Flore, was begun in the year 1296, from defigns of Arnolfo di Lapo, difciple of Cimabue. It is all 336 I FLORENCE. CHURCHES. all incrufted with black and white marble in com- partments. The octagon cupola, by Brunellefco, is a very fine one. The marble pavement of the nave is by Francefco da San Gallo ; that of the choir after defigns of Michelangelo's * ; and the reft by Giuliano di Baccio d'Agnolo. The cupola is painted by Fedcrigo Zuccheri and Giorgio Vafari : and the bas-reliefs of the choir are by Baccio Bandinelli and Giovanni dell' Opera. The crucifix at the end of the choir is by Benedetto da Majano : and God the Father, and Chrift fup- ported by an Angel, large ftatues on the altar, are by Bandinelli. Behind the altar is an unfi- nifhed pieta, by Michelangelo. Over the principal door, within, is the coronation of our Lady, a mofaic, by Gaddo Gaddi : and another, of the annunciation, over a door next via de y Servt, by Ghirlandaio. The tomb of Giotto is by one of the fide doors : the epitaph by Politian. Next to it is the tomb of Brunellefco the architect : the epitaph by Aretino. On the other fide is a por- trait of Dante. Over one of the doors is a ftatue of the virgin larger than life, with two angels, by Giovanni da Pifa. There are ftatues of the foifr cvangelifts, larger than life, by Donatello ; and eight of the Apoftles, by feveral hands. The * When we fpeak of Michelangelo (imply, we always mean Michelangelo Buonarroti; as by Guido, we always intend Guido Keni. door FLORENCE. CHURCHES. 337 door of the Sacrifty is bronze, with bas-reliefs, by Lorenzo Ghiberti : and the boys within are by Donatello *. Near the cathedral is the Campanile, or fteeple ; a tower, built after the defigns of Giotto; of black, white and red marble, mixt in compart- ments. It is about 273 feet high, and 47 fquare. On each- fide are niches, with four flatties ; thofe over the door, and on the fide next the fquare are by Donatello. The Baptiflery is an octagon, the diameter of which is near 92 feet. It is wholly incrufted with polifhed marble ; and has three bronze gates : one by Andrea Pifano, put up in 1330; the two others, by Lorenzo Ghiberti, erected in the fol- lowing century. Michelangelo, fpeaking of the laft, ufed to fay that they were fit to be the doors of paradife. The columns before the principal gate are porphyry : over it are three marble fta- tues, reprefenting the baptifm of Chrift, begun by Sanfovino, and finifhed by Vincenzio Danti ; * S. Maria del Tier*. The Cathedral. The laft (upper, by Gio. Balducci, and die fide pi&ures, by Ber- nardino Poccetti. The nativity, by Gregorio Pagani. The annunciation, by Federigo Zuccheri. The vifitation, by Batifta Naldini. Adoration of the Magi. e Martyrdom of S. Reparata', by Paffignano. Council of Florence, by Cav. Gio. Batifta Paggi. Z by 338 FLORENCE. CHURCHES. by whom alfo are three bronze flames, reprcfenting the beheading of S. John Baptift, over another gate. Over the third is S. John difputing with a pharifee and doctor of the law, by Giovanfrancefco Ruftici. Within are fixteen large granite columns — the flame of John Baptift, with angels, by Gi- rolamo Ticciati — the bas-reliefs and ftatue, on the tomb of Baldaflar Cofla, or Pope John XII. — and alfo a Magdalen, by Donatello. The roof is in mofaic, by Andrea Tali, difciple of Cimabue. The church of San Lorenzo is by Brunellefco. Two pulpits fupported by marble columns have bas-reliefs in bronze, by Donatello. This church is adorned with many paintings *. The * S. Lorenzo, Marriage of the virgin, by RoiTi. Virgin and S. Anne, chiaro-ofcuro, by Bartolommeo, who has introduced his own portrait. God on the crofs explaining the redemption to Adam and Eve, by Andrea del Sarto. The vifitation, by Agoltino Veracini. Marriage of the virgin, by RolTo, 1523. S. Laurence, by Niccolo Lapi. The aiTumption, an ancient painting. Crucifix with S. Francis, S. jerom, and the Magdalene, by Ot- taviano Dandini. S Jerom in the defert, by Cav. Giufeppe Nafini. The praefepe, by Cofimo Roflelli. Adoration of the Magi, by Girolamo Macchietti. The annunciation, by Filippo Lippi. Martyrdom of S. Laurence, freico, by Agnolo Bronzino. 6 Martyrdom FLORENCE. CHURCHES. 339 The old Sacrifty is by Brunellefco : the bas- reliefs, and the flatties of S. Laurence, S. Stephen, S. Cofimo, and S. Damiano, are by Donatello. The architecture of the new Sacrifty, or chapel of the Princes, is by Michelangelo; as is alfo the fculpture. 1. The tomb of Giuliano de Medici, with a ftatue of him, and two figures of day and night. 2. The tomb of Lorenzo de' Medici, with his ftatue, and two figures of morning and even- ing twilight. 3. Our Lady with Chrift in her arms. The Chapel of the Medicis, behind the choir, is an octagon, richly incrufted with jafper, oriental agate, chalcedony, lapis lazuli, &c. There are fix fuperb tombs in it : four of Egyptian granite, and two of oriental granite; from defigns of Michel- angelo. If this chapel were completed, it would be one of the fineft things in Italy *. The Mediceo-Laurenziana Library joins to this church. The gallery in which the books and ma- nufcripts are arranged, is about 150 feet long, Martyrdom of S. Sebaftian, by Empoli. S. Leonardo and other faints, three figures, very ancient. Martyrdom of S. Arcadio, &c. by Sogliani, 15 21. The calling of S. Matthew, by Pietro Marchefini. The cupola, Sec. by Vincenzio Meucci. Statue of Paulus jovius, by Franc, da fan Gallo. * The perfon who mows this chapel has fpecimens and Jiudii of marbles, &c. to difpofe of. Z 2 35 feet 340 FLORENCE. CHURCHES. 35 feet wide, and 28 high. This was built by Michelangelo ; the ftaircafe, windows, and princi- pal door, are much admired : the very defies were executed from drawings, and under the immedi- ate direction of this great architect. The manu- fcripts are faid to amount to 14,800. The architecture of the church of San Spirit 0 is by Brunellefco. It is of the corinthian order : the columns are of pietra fercna, which is a variety of macigno. The high altar is very fine, of gabbro and polzevera di prato, green and black, or red and black fpotted with white. There are many pictures by old mailers in this church : as the vir- gin and three faints, by Giotto; in the choir on the right band : next to this, the virgin, Chrift, and two faints ; by Boticelli : Chrift bearing his crofs, with many figures, and S. Veronica with the holy handkerchief ; by Ghirlandaio : the virgin, Chrift, S. Thomas, S. Peter, and two angels, dated 1482. Vafari mentions feveral pieces, by Fra. Filippo Lippi, and others. Here is alfo a ftatue of Chrift holding his crofs; by Taddeo Landini after Michelangelo*. The * San Spirito* God, the virgin, angels and faints ; by a difciple of Francia- bigio. Copy of Michelangelo's Pieta, in S. Peter's at Rome, by Nanni di Baccio Bigio. Two angels, by Franciabigio. Chrift FLORENCE. CHURCHES. 341 The church of Santa Maria Novella was built in 1279 » horn the airineis of its plan, Michelangelo Chrift driving out the profaners of the temple, by Stradano. S. Auguftin, by AlefT. G'herardini. Stoning of S. Stephen, by Dom. Paffignano. The Archangel Raphael and Tobias, in marble, by Giovanni Baratta. The virgin, Chrift, and S. Catharine— and two other pictures ; by Fra. Filippo Lippi. The virgin appearing to S. Bernard, a copy by Felice Ripofo. The original by Pietro Perugino is removed to Cafa Capponi di S. Friano. The marriage of the virgin, by Sagreflani. S. Niccolo reviving three children, by Gaetano Gabbiani. Offering of the Magi, by Aurelio Lomi, Virgin with faints, by Giotto. A picture, by Sandro Botticelli. The martyrs, by AlefT. Allori. Chrift and the woman taken in adultery, by the fame. S. Chiara receiving the communion from Chrift, by Vignali. Two chapels with fmall ancient pictures. Carrying of the crofs, by Benedetto del Ghirlandaio. Chrift appearing to Mary, by Agnolo Bronzino. The virgin, S. Sebaftian, &c. a copy by Petrucci, of the ori- ginal by Rofli now in the palace. S. Anne, the virgin and child on a throne, Magdalene, S Catha- rine, S. Thomas Aquinas, Sec. by Ridolfo del Ghirlandaio. S. Tommafo da Villanuova giving alms, by Rutilio Manetti. Giovanni da S. Facondo, by Cav. Nafini. Copy of Michelangelo's Chrift, in the Minerva at Rome, by Taddeo Landini. The refurre&ion : fchool of Franciabigio. Virgin, child, angels and faints ; by Fra. Filippo Lippi. A pic- ture, by AlefT. Allori, with fome frefcos by Bernardino Foe* cetti ; in the Sacrifty. Z 3 ufed 342 FLORENCE. CHURCHES. ufed to call it la Spofa. The paintings of the choir are by Ghirlandaio ; fcven of them reprefent the life of the virgin and as many the life of S. John Baptift : in thefe pieces are portraits of the times. In the facrifty is an ancient piece, looked upon to be the chef d'ceuvre of Cimabue. There are many ©ther ancient paintings both in the church and cloifters of the convent *. In the front of the houfe built near this church by * S. Maria Novella, The annunciation, by Santi di Tito. Martyrdom of S. Laurence, by Girolamo Macchietti. Nativity of our Lord — purification of the virgin, taking down from the crofs ; by Batifta Naldini. Refurrection of Lazarus, by Santi di Tito. S. Raimondo raifing a boy to life, by Ligozzi. Martyrdom of S. Catharine, by Giuliano Bugiardini. A chapel painted in frefco, by Filippo Lippi. A crucifix, by Brunellefco. A ceiling and picture, by A gnolo Bronzino. A chapel in frefco, by Andrea and Bern. Orgagna, the pic- ture at the altar, by Andrea. In the facrifty, pictures by Giovanni Angelica, &c. S. Giacinto, by Alcfs. Bronzino. S. Peter Martyr, by Cigoli, and a picture by Empoli. Madonna del Rofario, and another picture, by Vaiari. The Samaritan woman, by Alefs. Bronzino. S. Catharine, by Gaetano Romanelli. In the convent, a cloiftcr painted by Paolo degli Uccelli. In the chapel della nazione Spagnola, the walls and ceiling by Taddeo Gaddi and Simone Memmi. S. James, by Bron- zino. Second FLORENCE. CHURCHES. 343 by Viviani, the laft difciple of Galileo, is a bronze buft of this celebrated aftronomer, and fcrolls be- tween the windows, marking the epochas of his difcoveries. The church of the Annunciation, belonging to the Servites, is built by Michelozzi. In the chapel on the left at entrance is a miraculous picture, in which they tell you that the virgin was painted by angels : in the fame chapel is a head of Chrift, by Andrea del Sarto. In another of the chapels is a group in marble of Chrift dead, fupported by God the Father; by Baccio Bandinelli. In a third, decorated at the expence, and after the defigns of Giovanni di Bologna, this artift lies interred. There is alfo the tomb and buft of Bandinelli. The affumption of the virgin in the middle of the roof is by Volterrano, who alfo painted the cupola and tribuna. There are many frefcos of miracles, by Ulivelli *. In the inner cloifter of the con- vent Second cloifter by Santi di Tito, Poccetti, Cigoli,Vafari, Batifta Naldini, Balducci, &c. with the hiftory of S. Domenico and S. Antonino. By the dormitory — Capella del Papa is painted by Jacopo da Pontormo. * 5. Agata. Marriage in Cana, and all the tribune of the high altar, by Alef- fandro Allori. S. Agqjiino. S. Niccola di Tolentino, by Gio. Batifta Vannini. Z 4 S. Auguftin, 344 FLORENCE. CHURCHES. vent is the chapel of the academy of drawing, with the picture of the high altar, by Agnolo Bronzino, S. Auguftin, by Franc. Petrucci. S. Francefco di Paola, by Jacopo Vignali. Hence theie is a delightful view over the city and country. S. Ambrogio* A picture in the chapel of the Rofary, by Paffignano. The vifitation, by Andrea Bofcoli. In the Sacriity— Coronation of our Lady, by Fra. Filippo Lippi. Virgin and child, with S. Anne; by Mafaccio. The annunciation, by Vincenzio Dandini. Degli Angeli. Belonging to the Camaldoli. Ceiling, by Aleff. Gherardini. Refurreclion of Lazarus, by Bern. Poccecti. Holy family returning from Egypt, by Cav. Paggi. The beheading of S. John Baptra, by Gamberucci. Coronation of the Virgin Mary, by AleiT. Allori. S. Romualdo, by Giuf. Grifoni. Annun'uata. Madonna del facco, &c. by Andrea del SartO. S. Sebaftian, by Antonio del Pollaiolo. Death of Jofeph, by Carlo Lotti. The lall Judgment, by Alefl". Bronzino. The crucifixion, by Stradana. — Joannes Stratenjts Flendrus F. 1.560. The afiumption, by Cefare Dandini. S, Zanobi, and two other biftiops ; an ancient picture. A picture in the Tedaldi chapel, by Vokerrano, Nativity of the Virgin, by AleiT. Allori. The picture on one fide of this is by Criftofano Allori ; the other by Paffignant i and the ceiling of the tribune by Poccetti. S. Michcle, FLORENCE. CHURCHES. 34-5 Bronzino, 15.71; and two frefcos by Vafari and Santi di Tito. But the principal curiofity here is S. Michele, by Pignoni. Virgin and faints, by Pietro Perugino. The refurrection, by Agnolo Bronzino. The fame fubjecl:, by Paffignano. A Pieta, by Ligozzi. The nativity, by Paggi. The crucifix is by Giovanni Bologna. Chrift reitoring to fight the man born blind, by Pafiignano. Marriage of S. Catharine, by Giov. Biliverti. Virgin and child, with S. Anne and other faints ; by Ant. Don- nini. Antinori : See S. Michele Bertoldi. S. Antcnh. S. Louis, by Livio Mehus. S. Antony, by Nic. Mignard. S. Apojioli. S. Martin difpenfing alms, by Gamberucci. S. Peter healing the lame man, by Roncalli. The conception, by Giorgio Vafari. The annunciation, a copy of the old picture. The nativity, by Tommafo da S. Friano. S. Michael the Archangel, by Stefano Marucelli. S. Francefco di Sales carried by angels into glory, by Antonio Domenico Gabbiani. The crucifixion, by Andrea Bofcoli. The virgin and child fitting, S. John Baptifr. and a bilhop on one fide, S.Antony and S. Francis on the other: a capital picture by Fra. Filippo Lippi. Badia di S. Sal vat ore. Two pieces, a tempera, by Domenico Ghirlandaio. Chape!, 34 6 FLORENCE, CHURCHES. is a molt excellent frefco by Andrea del Sarto, in one of the cloiftcrs, over a door j well known by the Chapel, in frefco, by Giovanni da San Giovanni. A pi&ure, by Fra. Bartolommeo. Bonifaxioy fee Spedale. Calza, fee S. Giovanni Batifla. S. Cecilia. Picture of the high altar, by Cav. Curradi. Chrift bearing his crofs, by RofTo. Over the door is, or rather was, a picture by Cimabue. Certofa. Built by Orgagna, or one of his fcholars. Cloifter painted in frefco, by Jacopo da Pontormo. In the refectory, Chrift at table, with Cleophas and Luke, in oil ; by the fame. S. Laurence, by Bronzino. In the chapter-houfe, a crucifix with the Maries at the foot of the crofs, and angels in the air, by Mariotto Albertinelli. Alfo many pieces by Bernardino Poccetti, and Rutilio Manetti. S. Chiara. Dead Chrift, with twelve figures, by Pietro Perugino, dated 1495. Nativity of Chrift, with ten figures, by Lorenzo di Credi. Chiarito. S. Thomas with the Virgin — and, Chrift praying in the garden; by Giovanni Stradano. Monaci Cijlercienfi. Birth of the Virgin, &c. by AlefT. Gherardini. Martyrdom of S. Peter, by Guido. S. Bernard before the virgin, by Fabb. Bofchi. Cupola, by Anton. Domenico Gabbiani. S. Bernard at the altar, &c. by Pietro Dandini. FLORENCE. CHURCHES. 347 the name of Madonna del Sacco. In a little cloifter, which ferves as a veftibule to the church, is a buft in marble of Andrea del Sarto, with more frefcos by him and others, now almoft worn out. This convent is large ; the monks near 200 in num- ber ; and their library ample. Santa Croce, built in 1294 from the defigns of Arnolfo, is a church of the Fratl Minor i Convert- tualu Over the principal door is a ftatue in bronze of S. Louis, by Donatello *. Here Baptifm of Chrift, by Antonio Franchi. Martyrdom of S. Anaftafius, by Giov. Ciabilli, Nobilz Rdigiofe di S. Clemente. Piclure of the high altar, by Santi di Tito. S. Auguftin, by Jacopo daPontormo. An ancient picture, by Ghirlandaio. * Santa Qroce. Defcent from the crofs, by Salviati. The crucifixion, by Santi di Tito. The appearance of Chrift to S. Thomas — the defcent of the Holy Ghoft, and Chrift carrying his crofs ; all by Vafari. Ecce homo, by Jacopo di Meglio. The flagellation, by AlefT. del Barbiere. Our Lord praying in the garden, by Andr. del Minga. The annunciation, fculpture, by Donatello. Tomb of Leonardo Aretino, by Bernardo RofTellino, fcholar of Donatello. The Virgin above is by Andrea Verrocchio. The entry of ChriH into Jerufalem, begun by Cigoli, and finifh- ed by Biliverti. S. Francis receiving the marks, by Naldini. The nativity, by Giuliano Bugiardini. In 348 FLORENCE. CHURCHES. Here is themaufoleum of Michelangelo Buonar- roti, great in the three arts of painting, foulp- ture, In Cappella de' Baroncelli, the coronation of the virgin Mary, by Giotto. In the Sacrilty, twenty-fix fmall pieces by him, of the life of Chriil and S. Francis. The altar-piece, and thofe on the wall, by Taddeo Gaddi. In the Calderini Chapel, S. Lorenzo diftributing alms, by Paf- fignano. Altar-piece, with another on the fide, by Matteo K ocelli. The frefcos by San Giovanni. A ceiling, by Giotto. On the walls of the choir, the finding of the crofs, by Taddeo Gaddi. Cappella de' Niccolini ; fine marble ftatues of Aaron, Mofcj, Virginity, Prudence, and Humility; by Francavilla Fiam- rningo. The two pictures are by AlefT. Allori, and die frefcos by Volterrano. Martyrdom of S. Laurence, by Giacomo Ligozzi. A crucifix, by Donatello. Chrift dead, by Cigoli. Cappella della Concezione, painted by Giotto. The afccnfion, by Giov. Stradano, dated 1569. Chrift with the difciples at Emmaus — and, the refurreclion ; by Santi di Tito. Entombing of Chrift, by Batifta Naldini. Limbus patrum, by Agnolo Bronzino. A Pieta, by the fame. The virgin, a bas-relief in marble, by RolTellino. Two crucifixes ; one by Cimabue, the other by Margheritone. In the Church and Convent are other pictures by Cimabue and Giotto. The bas-reliefs of the hiilory of S. Francis, by Benedetto da Maiano. 'Mcnaflivj, FLORENCE. CHURCHES. 349 ture, and architecture. Above is his bull:, with three crowns, and the motto — tergemlnis toilit ho- nor ibus: Monajlery of Dominicans, In the Church. Nativity of Chrift, by Fra. Filippo Lippl- S. Jerom praying in the defert, by Bronzino. The annunciation, in the ftyle of Lippi. S* Felice in Piazza. S. Rocco and S. Catharine, by Pier di Cofimo. S. Domenico and other, faints, by Jacopo Vignali. S. Antonio Abate healing the fick, by Ottavio Vannini. Saints, by Mario Balaffi. Virgin and Chrift, with many faints, by Giovanni Angelica. Felice aflifting S. Mafiimo, Bifliop of Nola, who is dying of cold and hunger, by prefting a grape into his mouth, frefco, by San Giovanni. Virgin with faints, fix figures large as life ; by Ridolfo del Ghir* landaio. Madonna del Rofario, with S. Peter Martyr and S. Giacinto 5 by Jacopo da Empoli. The calling of S. Matthew, by Roflelli. Chrift in a ftorm during the night, reaching out his hand to S. Peter, by Salvator Rofa. Martyrdom of S. Lucia, by Jacopo Chiaviftelli. The tombs of Gabbiani, Giovanni da San Giovanni, Sec, are in this church. S. F elicit a. Defcent from the cro(s, &c. by Jacopo da Pontormo. S. Felicita, with feven fons, martyrs, by Neri di Bicci, dated 1468. Chapel of Pope Gregory, by Ferdinando Vellani da Modena. Nativity of Chrift, by Gerard Hondthorft. The crucifixion, by Lorenzo Carletto. The refurre&ion, by Antonio Tempefta. S. Frzdiano. 35° FLORENCE. CHURCHES, noribus: under the farcophagus are three ftatues of the three fitter arts in which he fo fuperiorly ex- celled : S. Frediano* Marriage of S. Catharine, by Pier di Cofimo. Chrift healing the paralytic, by PalTignano. A Pieta, with S. Jerom and S. Frediano, by Ghirlandaio. Martyrdom of S. Andrew, by Lorenzo Lippi. The crucifixion, by Lorenzo di Credi. Virgin, child, and angels ; time of Ghirlandaio. S. Giovanni Batijla, called La Calza* A picture, by Ghirlandaio. Chrift on the crofs with faints. The virgin with Chrift dead, and other figures. Chrift praying in the garden. All by Pietro Perugino. Ecce Homo, by Santi Pacini. Mater dolorofa, by Ignazio Hugford. Jefus the good fhepherd, by the fame. ' In the Refectory, the laft fupper, in frefco, by Francabigio. Ccmpagnia di San Giovan Bat if a. Frefcos of the life of S. John Baptift, by Andrea del Sarto.— Two by Francabigio. — S. John baptizing Chrift, by Lorenzo di Credi. S. Giovamuno. Nativity of S. John Baptift, by Santi di Tito. Coronation of the virgin, by Orgagna. Beheading of S. John Baptift, by Pietro Dandini. S. Auguftin and S. Maria Maddalena de' Pazzi, two ovals, by AlefT. Ghcrardini ; by whom alfo are the frefcos in the tri- bune, Sec. Nativity of Jefus, by Ghirlandaio. The annunciation, fchool of Giotto. S.G,'ro!am& FLORENCE. CHURCHES. 35 1 celled : that of painting is the beft : in the deco- ration of the monument is introduced a fmall. picture S. Girolam*. S. Girolamo repenting— and, the annunciation; both by Ghlr- landaio. The immaculate conception, with faints ; by Cav. Mazzanti di Orvieto. S. Giuliano* At the high altar, and the altar of the crucifix, two pictures, by Mariotto Albertinelli. Nativity of Chrift, by Jacopo da Empoli. S. Giufeppe. Built by Baccio d' Agnolo, The nativity, by Santi di Tito. Chapel of S. Francis, by Atanafio Bimbocci. Four pictures of the miracles of S. Francis, by Francefco BianchL S. yacopo. A boy fuppcrting a coat of arms, over the principal door, frefco, by Giovanni da San Giovanni. Virgin and child, S. James, S. Francis, S. Laurence, and S. Clare, by Ghirlandaio. A picture, by Nafini of Siena. S. J"acopo fopr* Arno. S. Gennaro, by Sebaftiano Galeotti. Chrift on the crofs, the virgin and S. John; by Agnolo Bron- zino. S. Vincenzio di Paoli, by Antonio Pugliefchi. Chrift calling James to the apoftlelhip, by Pier Dandini. S. Niccolo, by Jacopo Vignali. The annunciation, by Ignazio Hugford. Martyrdom of S. Cecilia, by Giovanni Cafmi. S. yacopo, 352 FLORENCE. CHURCHES, picture by bis own hand of Chrift dead, with the holy women at the fepulchre. Over againft Michelangelo refts the illuftrious, the injured Galileo. Viviani's executors found great difficulty in obtaining leave to erect this maufoleum, and to remove Galileo's bones into it, in the year 1737, almoft a century after his death. The dialogue, in which lay his principal crime, (till continues profcribcd in the index expurgatorius, revifcd by Benedict XIV. in 1758, along with the works of Bacon, Copernicus, Kepler, Defcartes, and Fof- carini. Here alfo are the tombs of Leonardo Aretino, and Micheli the famous naturalift. In the church of S. Marco, belonging to the Dominicans, are feveral pictures by Fra. Barto- lommeo, Paflignani, Santi di Tito, Jacopo da Empoli, &c *• The chapel of Antonino is by Averardo S. Jacopo fra FoJJt. Chrift appearing to Mary as a gardener, by Andrea del Sarto. Copies of other paintings by him, the originals of which are in the palace. Virgin and child, S. Francis and S. Auguftin, and two boy an- gels. Chrift on the crofs, and faints below, pictures of the 15 th century. * 5. Marco. Madonna, by Piero Cavallini. S. Thomas Aquinas, by Santi di Tito. Virgin and faints, by Bartolommeo. Virgin and faints, in Mofaic. The FLORENCE. CHURCHES, 353 Averardo and Antonio Salviati : the works in marble by Giovanni di Bologna ; fix marble fta- tues, by Francavilla, his fcholar ; and fix bafii-re- lievi in bronze, by Domenico Portigiani, another of his fcholars, and from his mafter's drawings. The laft fupper, by Santi di Tito. Fall of Manna, by Paffignano. Sacrifice of Abraham, by Jacopo da Empoli. Miracle of the loaves and fifhes — and, the difciples at Emmaus, by Gav. Curradi, S. Paul reviving the young man, by Biliverti. The ceiling, &c. frefco, by Bernardino Poccetti. Before the chapel of S. Antonino, two hiftories of that faint, by Paflio-nano. o The Emperor Heraclius carrying the crofs, by Cigoli. S. Vincenzio Ferreri preaching, by Paflignano. The transfiguration, by Cav. Paggi. In the Convent many paintings by Poccetti, Roflelli, Tiarini> Bofchi, Giovanni Angetica, AlefT. Gherardini, Cofimo Uli- velli, AlefT. Loni, and Sebaft. Galeotti. Prefentation of Chrift in the temple, by Bartolommeo, The Virgin Mary, by Carlo Dolce. S. Margherita. Finding of the crofs, Niccodemo Ferrucci. The lick having recourfe to the patronage of S. Margaret, by Cofimo Gamberucci. S. Margaret in glory, by Gio. Batifta MarmL The fide picture, by Franc. Conti. Virgin, child, and faints, over the door; by Spinello Aretino. S. Maria di Candeli. The afTumption, by Anton. Domenico Gabbiani. Crucifix, by Alefl*. Gherardini. A a The ^5+ FLORENCE. CHURCHES. The cupola is painted by Aleffandro Allori by whom alio there is a picture of Chrift, S. Rofa, &c« ten figures large as life. There are many paintings about the Convent by Florentine artifls: and a large, curious library, open to the public. The Grand Duke's {tables and manege are near this convent : and his Menagerie is on the fquare. There is alfo a Giardino de' fimplici or Botanic garden; and a Botanical Academy. The church of the Carmelites was burnt in 1771, and the works of Giotto deftroyed. The Corfiru chapel, and the Brancacci, in which are Mafac- cio's frefcos, were faved. In the chapel of the communion, Gherardo Stamina has painted the life of S. John. The pictures of Angiolo Gaddi in the choir were much fmoked. Manv Other churches have curious and valuable pictures by the Tufcan mailers — as S. Maria Mad- dalena de Pazzi, S» Pier maggiore, Ognijfanti, fee. &c *. Palazzo * o. Maria MadJahna de Pazzi. Cappella de' Ncri. Paradife, in the cupola, &c. by Bern. Poc- ceeti. Pifture at the altar, by Paifignano. Martyrdom of S. Ro:nolo, by Carlo Portclli da Loro. The vifitation, by Domcnico Chirlandaio. 149 1. Virgin Mary, S. Giuliano, and 0. Niccolo ; by Lorenzo di Credi. Virgin and child, S. Bernard ahd! ether faints, by Jacopo da Pontormo. S. I.uigi Gcnzaga in glory, by AtanafiO Bimbacci. The FLORENCE. CHURCHES. PALACES. 355 Palazzo Fittiy which is the refidence of the 'Grand Duke, was begun from defigns of Brunel- lefco. The annunciation, by Sandro BotlcelH. Crucifix carved in wood, by Bernardo Bontalenti. The altar picture in the great chapel, by Ciro Ferri. The fide pictures by Luca Giordano. The cupola, by Pietro Dandini. S. Mary Magdalene de* Pazzi receiving the veil, by Cav. Cuiradi. The fame receiving the communion from the hand of our Lord, by Gio. Bat. Cipriani. Virgin, with S. Peter and S. James; very old. S. Roch and another faint, by RafFaellino del Garbo. Chrift praying in the garden, by Santi di Tito. Coronation of the virgin, by Giov. Angelica. Virgin, Mary Magdalene, and S.Bernard, with angels, by Co- fimo Roflelli. S. Maria Maggiore, S. Alberto faving a perfon from mipwreck, by Cigoli. The Magdalene, by Pugliani. Martyrdom of S. Biagio, by Ottavio Vannini ; the fide piclure, by Antonio Giufti. S. Francis receiving the marks, by Piero Dandini. On the ceiling of the Orlandini chapel — Elijah carried up to heaven, by Volterrano. The picture at the altar, by Biliverti. S. Maria Maddalena de' Pazzi, by Onorio Marinari. S. Francis, by Matteo Roffelli. Defcent of the Holy Ghoft, by Paffignano. S. "Maria Nuova. The walls painted by Lorenzo Bicci, Pomerancio, and Taddeo Zuccheri. Pictures at the altars by Felice, Paggi, Volter- rano, and Aleff. Allori called Bronzino : the fubject of the laft is the annunciation, dated 1579. ' ' A a % San 356 FLORENCE. CHURCHES. F AL ACES. lefco. The front is heavy ; but the infide of the court is majeftic, and in a good jftyle, by Amma- nati. San Matteo, fee Spedale. S. Michele Berleldi, or agli Antintri. Martyrdom of S. Andrew, by Ruggieri. The archangel Michael, by Vignali. S. Gaetano and another faint, by Matteo RofTelli. Adoration of the Magi, by Ottavio Vannini. Nativity of Chrift, by RofTelli. The annunciation and vifitation, Fabrizio Bofchi. Ceiling of the church, and cupola of the tribune ; by Padre Galletti. S. Elena, by RofTelli. The pictures on the fides, Sec. by Bili- verti and Vignali. S. Andrea Avellino, by Ignazio Hugford. The fide pictures by 'Franc, and Alfonfo Bofchi. The ceiling by Lorenzo Lippi. The martyrdom of S. Laurence, by Pietro da Cortona. S. Francis with the infant Jefus, by Jacopo da Empoli. S. Laurence giving alms, by Matteo RofTelli. Virgin, child, and two bifliops, by Padre Galletti; the fide pic- tures by Curradi and Vanni. S. Michele Vifdomini. The nativity, by Empoli. The virgin, by Jacopo da Pontormo. Two pictures, by Poppi. S. John preaching, by Paflignano. Monte Domini. Stoning of S. Stephen, by Lodovico Cigoli. The annunciation, by AlefTandro Allori. Monte Vliveto. Entry of Chrift into Jerufalem, by Santi di Tito. S. Bernardo Tolomei, by Pignoni. The FLORENCE. CHURCHES. PALACES. 357 nati. It is full of fine pictures, mofaic work, marbles, &:c. Many of the pictures are firft rate ones. The Refurrettion, by Raffaellino del Garbo ; in the Capponi chapel, under the church. Murate* The Annunciation, by Fra. Filippo Lippi; taken out of the church, and placed in a parlour of the convent. S. Niccolo, or d'Oltramo. Abraham's facrifice, by AlefT. Allori. The prefentation of Chrift in the temple, by Batifla Naldini. Defcent of the Holy Ghoft, by Jacopo di Meglio. Carriage of the virgin, by Poppi. Picture of the high altar, by Gentile da Fabriano. S. John preaching, by Empoli. The Annunciation, by AleiT. Fei, called del Barbiere. .Refurrettion of the widow's fon, by Poppi. Martyrdom of $. Catharine, by Aleff. Allori, God with faints, by Empoli. S. Niccolo raifing a child to life, by Curradi. Four fingle half figures of faints. Virgin, child, and four angels, half figures. Both thefe are 8 old, and on gilt grounds. Nunziata, fee Annunziata* Ognijfanti, Chrift's afcenfion, by Lodovico Buti. S. Elifabeth Queen of Portugal, by Matteo Roflclli, Virgin and child with faints, by Santi di Tito. S. Auguftin, frefco, by Sandro Boticelli, S. Girolamo, by Ghirlandaio. S. Francis, by Niccodemo Ferrucci. The conception, by Vincenzio Dandini, A a % S. Diego, FLORENCE. CHURCHES. PALACES. ones. As the famous holy family, called Madonna Ma S. Diego, by Jacopo Ligozzi. S. Pietro d' Alcantara, and S.Terefa, by Lazzaro Baldi. S. Bernardino, and S. Giovanni da Capiftratio, by Vincenzio Dandini. Cupola, &c of the great chapel, by San Giovanni. S. Chiara, by Cofimo Gamberucci. S. Bonaventura, byFabbrizio Bofchi. Chrilt driving the buyers and fellers out of the temple, a frefco, by Pinzani. S. Giovanni da Capiflratio, and the two fide pictures, by Pier Dandini. S. Margherita da Cortona, by Pietro Mafcherini. S. Bernardino da Siena, by Fabbrizio Bofchi. The affumption, by Tommafo da S. Friano. Martyrdom of S. Andrew, by Matteo Roffelli. The Annunciation, by Bartolommeo Traballefi, Cloifters painted in frefco by Giovanni da S.Giovanni, Gioi r annir Garcia his fcholar, Jacopo Ligozzi and Fabbrizio Bofchi. D'O/tramo, fee S. Niccdo. S. Onofrio. Adoration of the Magi, by Ligozzi. S. Francis receiving the marks, by Lodov. Cigoli. Qrfanmichele. The tower, by Giotto and Taddeo Gaddi. In the Confraternita, over the door, a picture by BufFalmacco or Taddeo Gaddi. At the high altar, S. Carlo Borromeo, by RcfTelli. A tabernacle, or ifolatcd chapel, with baffi-rilievi by Orgagna; and the Y'irgin Mary painted by Ugolino Sanefe. Behind the altar, a baflbrilievo by Orgagna, wherein is his own portrait. On FLORENCE. CHURCHES. PALACES. 9,59 de-lla fedia : portraits of Leo X. with two cardinals, and On the high altar, three ftetues by Fr. di Sargallo, and on the pi.Iafrcrs fome ancient pictures by Lorenzo Credi, Agnolo Gaddi, and Jacopo del Cafentino. On the outiide, in fourteen niches, are ftatues of faints, by Ghi- berti, Baccio da Montelupo, Donatello, Verrocchio, and Gio- vanni Bologna. S. Pancrazio. The annunciation, a frefco, by Pietro Cavallini. S. Giovanni Gualberto pardoning an enemy, by Pafiigr^no. A Pieta, with S. John and the Maries. On the fide walls, S. Gio. Gualberto and S. Verdiano ; by Eened. Bugiioni. Ecce homo, frefco, by Giuliano Traballefi. S. John preaching, by Santi di Tito. The afiuinption, with S. Jerom and S. Catharine j by Andrea del Minga. The virgin at the foot of the crofs, by Tommafo Gherardini. S. Sebaftian, by Aleifandro del Barbiere. S. Bernardo and other faints, by Franc, del Erina. Martyrs, by Ghirlandaio. In the Abbot's apartments, a piciure by Taddeo Gaddi. S. Pier Maggiore. The annunciation, by Francabigio. Virgin and child, S. Francis, and S. Gio. Gualberto, by llafFa- ellino del Garbo. S. Peter healing the lame man at the gate of the temple, by Coiimo Gainberucci. The vifitation, by Tommafo da S. Friano, and four fmaH pic- tures under it. Crucifix, fald to be by Baccio da Montelupo. Three large old pictures like Giotto, the coronation of the virgin is the principal. Aflhmption of the virgin, with a multitude of angels ; by Sandro 3cticelii. A a 4 God 360 FLORENCE. CHURCHES. T AL ACES. and of Julius II. all by RafTaelle. Portrait of cardinal Bentivoglio, Cod with (Thrift dead in his arms ; a frefco by Pietro Perugino. Martyrdom of S. Lucia, by Volterrano. The afcenfion, by Gabbiani, Adoration of the Magi, by Lodov. Cigoli. In the Choir, the paintings on the organ are by Niccodemo Ferrucci. S. Peter and S. Paul, feparating to go to martyrdom, by Fab- brizio Bojchi. Chrift giving the keys to S. Peter, by Matteo RorTelli. Fourteen or fifteen old pictures, all framed together, on gold g rounds , In the Chapels. Adoration of the Magi, by Valerio Marucelli, S. Jofeph with the child Jefus, by Cav. Curradi. The aflumption, with S. Thomas ; by Franc. Granacci. The repentant thief, by Maria BalaiTi. S. Antonino raifmg a girl to life, by Franc. Conti. Chrift on the crofs, and five faints ; by Lorenzo di Credi. Koly family, S. Jerom, and two other faints ; perhaps by Luea Signorelli. And fume other ancient pictures. Poverine. Ih,e crucifixion, with a female faint, and S. Jerom; by Pietro Perugino. S. Procolo, The annunciation, by Empoli. 'Thevirgin, S. Barbara, and S. Antonio; by Pontormo 9 The vifitation ; of the age of Pietro Perugino. S. Romolo, The virgin, Chrift, and faints; by Neri di Bicci. Virgin and child, on the wall; by Angiolo Gaddi. Mador.r.a del Rofario. S. Sain at ore, Florence; churches, palaces. 361 Bentivoglio, by Vandyck. Several fine Rubens's. Many S. Safoatore, fee Badia, S. Simone. The virgin, with S. Simon and S. Jude, frefco ; by Niccodemo Ferrucci. A dead Chriil, &c. with S. Jerom ; by Batifta Naldini. Martyrdom of S. Laurence, by Giovanbatifta Vanni. An ancient picture of the virgin. S. Jerom meditating on the laft judgment, by Onorio Marinari. Chrift and S. Bernard, by Giacomo Vignali. S. Francis in ecftafy, by the fame. S. Niccolo, by Franc. Montelatici, commonly called Cecco Bravo. Spedale di Bonifazio. Madonna and faints, by Cennino Cennini, difciple of Taddeo Gaddi. The Trinity, and the picture by the fide of the door ; by Ag- nolo Donnini. At the high altar, S. Maria Maddalena de' Pazzi, by Matteo Koflelli. Spedale di S. Matteo, In the front, fome very old frefcos. In the church — the affumption, by Empoli. Martyrdom of S. Barbara, by Lodovico Buti. An old picture of S. Matthew, &c. Spirito Santo. S. Benedetto raifing a child to life, by Tommafo Redi. S. Gualberto pardoning an enemy, by Paflignano. Taking down from the crofs, by AlefT. Gherardini. The virgin and S. Domenico, by Jacopo Vignali. The defcent of the Holy Ghoft, by Anton. Domenico Gabbiani. S. Stefano* 362 FLORENCE. CHURCHES. PALACES. Many excellent by Tiziano, Andrea del Sarto, Eartolommeo, Carlo Dolce, &c In S. Stcfana. S. Bartholomew, by Franc. Bianchi. S. Nicholas in glory, by Matteo RoiTelli. The virgin and S. John, frefco, by Niccclo Lapi. The virgin, S. Augufun, and other faints; by Santi di Tito, The miracle of S. Zanobi, by Mauro SoderroK Converfion of S. Paul, by Franc. Morofmo. S. Catharine, by Giov. da S. Facondo. S. Tommafo a" Aquina. S. Thomas Aquinas on his knees before a crucifix, by Santi di Tito. S. Trinita. S. John Baptifl preaching, by Franc. Curradi. Dead Chrift with God the Father — --below, S. Luke, S. John Baptift, &c. by Pafilgnano. Two ancient pictures, by D. Lorenzo. In the facrifry, the Nativity, by Ghirlandaio. A Pieta, by Agnolo Bronzino. Chapel of the Saffetti, entirely painted in frefco by Ghirlandaio. 1485. Shipwreck of S. Peter, by Criftofano Allori. Chrift giving the keys to S. Peter, by Jacopo da Empcli. Frefcos, by Giovanni da S. Giovanni. Chapel in frefco, by Bern. Poccetti. Marriage of S. Catharine, by D. AlefTandro Pavanzuti from Paolo Veronefe. * 1. S alone di Ventre, Frefcos, by Pietro di Cortona. Solomon and the queen of Sheba, by Tintoretto. Jofeph felling corn to his brethren, by Vanni. 2. Saloae FLORENCE. PALACES. 363 In the upper ftory of this palace is a Library of HbBUt 35,000 volumes. The gardens called Bob oil zl': j extenfivej and have a great variety of ground, Palazzo 2. Sahne d 1 Apolline. A large landfcape, by Rubens. A mountainous landfcape, with a view of the fea; by the fame. Mars dragged from the arms of Venus, by a fury, or the demon of war; by the fame. Adam and Eve lamenting the death of Abel, by Tiarini. Virgin, child, and faints, an altar picture on wood, by Roflb » between the windows. Virgin, child, S. John and S. Francis ; by Andrea del Sarfcu A Jewilh marriage, two piclures, by the fame. A woman with animals, by Caftiglione. Pope Paul III. half length, fitting ; by Tiziano, Tiziano's miftrefs, by the fame. Portrait in a hat and black drapery, by Vandyck. Chriil preaching, a fmall picture, by RafFaelle. S. Mark, larger than nature, by Eartolommeo. Portrait of an artift, by Livio Menus. Three figures, reprefenting Youth, Manhood, and Old A|;e ; by Paris Bordone. The Magdalene, by Leonardo da Vinci. Holy family, with a dog ; by Ventura Salimbenn Virgin and child in the clouds, by Guercino. Several portraits. 3. Sakne di Marte. The ceiling by Pietro da Cortona. Four portraits of Rubens, Lipfius, Grotius, and another, in ovm - piece; by Rubens. Madonna and family, by Andrea del Sarto, under the former. Holy family— Virgin, €&nft> S. John in a cradle, Jofeph and Elifabeth; by Rubens. Virgin 364 FLORENCE. P*A LACES. Palazzo Vccchio, the old palace, is built after the defigns of Arnolfo. There is a large room in it: for Virgin fitting with the child in her lap, commonly called Ma- Jbmsd delta Jtiiay by Raffaelle. S. Fillppo Neri invoking the virgin, by Carlo Maratti. The tribute money, two figures only, by Tiziano. Pope Leo X. with Cardinal Giulio dei Medici, afterwards Cle- ment VII. on one fide, and Cardinal Luigi di RoiTi on the other - r by RafYaelle. Faroe Julius II. by the fame ! A portrait, by Paolo Veronefe. Cardinal Bentivoglio, whole length, by Vandyck ! Scosvola, and its companion ; by Tintoretto. Tcicent from the crofs ; and, Chrifi with his apoftl.es ; two large altar-pic~lures ; by Cigoli. transfiguration, by Annibale Carracci. Chirift with the two difciples at Emmaus, by Guercino. S. Sebaftian, by Andrea Sacchi : half figure, large as life, 4. S alone di dove. Thf ceiling and other frefcos, by Pietro da Cortona. Tit? Magdalene, by Tiziano-. Two holy families, by the fame. Trie Virgin, Chrifi, S. John, and Elizabeth ; by Rubens.. Two holy families, by Palma Vecchio. ChriS in the garden, by Carlo Dolce. Virgin and child, half figures, an oftagon picture ; by the fame. TJtehoIy family and S. Catharine, by Paolo Veronefe. The marriage of S. Catharine, large, by Bartolommeo. Two pieces of the anumptjon, nearly alike, by Andrea del Sarto. Ecce Homo, by Cigoli. Another, by Albert Durer. V-igin, Chrift, S. John, Elifabethj and another faint; bv Raffaclle. Virgin, FLORENCE. PALACES, for public entertainments, 172 feet long, and 70 wide ; in which the mod celebrated actions of the republic Virgin, Chrift, Jofeph, and angels, fmall ; by Albano. S. Francis, by Spagnoletto. The fame, on his knees, by Rubens. Portrait of a young man with his hair over his forehead, by Vandyck. 5. Salons cPErcole. , The Virgin and Chrift with faints, a great picture by Raffaelle, in his fecond manner. The Virgin, Chrift, and Jofeph ; by the fame. The Virgin, with Chrift and S. John embracing; by the fame. Chrift Handing on a fuggeftum, or pedeftal, in the midft of the four evangelifts, whole figures, large as life ; by Bartolommea.. The Magdalene, S. Laurence, S. Francis, S. Auftin, and Peter Martyr ; by Andrea del Sarto ! The Virgin, Chrift, S. John, and Jofeph; by Ann. CarraccL •Luther playing on the harpfichord, his wife, and Bucer; by Giorgione. Cleopatra, by Guido— Charity, by the fame: two fmgle half figures. A head, by Corregio. Dance of Apollo and the Mufes ; by Giulio Romano. The three Fates, in chiaro- ofcuro, by Michelangelo. The infide of a church, by Peter Nefs. A portrait, by R.embrandt — old man fitting, half length- The infant Jefus fleeping, by Carlo Dolce. Holy family, ov r al, by Albano. The finding of Mofes, by Paolo Veronefe, Vifion of Ezechiel, by Ra&aellc. Another holy family, by Albano. S. Sebaftian, by Carlo Loth. Cain and Abel, by Schiavone. Virgin, 366 FLORENCE. PALACES. republic are painted by Vafari, in frefco : in the corners are four great hiftorical pictures, by Ci- goli, Ligozzi, and Paflignanit Other rooms oil the fame floor are painted by Vafari. In the fala Ml 9 udienza vecchia, which is the upper (lory, the actions of Furius Camillus, &c. are painted in frefco, by Salviati. There is a converfation, by- Rubens : and the chapel was painted by Ghirlan- daio. Some modern flatues and groups are in Virgin, Chrift, jofeph, and two females; by Pordenone. Figures pointing at a little Madonna in the clouds, by Palm* Vecchio. Over the door — S. Peter railing Tabitha, by Guercino. Virgin, Chrift, and S. Catharine; faid to be Corregio. Next to the Fates — An old piece, by Ercole di Ferrara. Next Room. Death> Judgment, Heaven, and Hell, painted on the walls ; by Nafmi of Siena. Oh one of the doers — An Ecce Homo, by Carlo Dolce. Sala cTUdienza* A battle and two fea -pieces, one fine, by Salvator Rofa* A battle, by Borgogncne. On the ground Jtoox. Frefcos imitating bas-reliefs, by Giovanni da San Giovanni. The walls are painted in ten great frefcos, by San Giovanni^ Cecco Bravo, Ottavio Vannini, and Francifco Furino. There are many paintings in thefe lower apartments, but none of any great account. Among other curiofities, is a large bath, of one piece of verd antique. The ftatues of Niobe and h?r children, which were here, are now removed to the gallery. this FLORENCE. PALACES. SCULPTURE. 367 this palace, by Baccio Bandinelli, Michelangelo, and Vincenzio Roffi. But the Guardarobas attract the attention of the majority of Grangers. Here are fifty-four large filver dimes or balins, finely worked, which are a tribute paid to theGrand Duke by the feudatory cities — Turkim arms — the crown with which Fius V. crowned Cofmo I. his horfe equipage — a rich paliotto, or covering for an altar; and many other curiofities. Here alfo are kep£ the original copy of Juftinian's Pandects, and a curious manufcript of the gofpel according to S. John. Thefe cannot be feen without a licenfe from the Mafter of the Wardrobes ; and the ma- mifefipts mud be particularly fpecifled. At the entrance of the palace is David triumph- ing over Goliath, by Michelangelo; and Hercules with Cacus, by Vincenzio Roffi, fcarcely inferior to that of his mafter Bandinelli, which is in the fquare. Oppofite to the old palace is a Loggia, executed after the defigns of Orgagna. Under one of the arcades is a group in bronze, by Donatello, of Judith (landing with her fabre raifed up over the throat of Holofernes, who lies down againfi the pedcftal, round which is this infeription : Publics Sahtis Exemplum Civ, Pos. Here alfo is Perfeus {bowing Medufa's head, in bronze, by Benvenuto Cellini : and the rape of a Sabine, a marble group, by Giovanni Bologna. 4 There 368 FLORENCE. SCULPTURE. There is much good modern fculpture in other parts of Florence, and they reckon 160 public ftatues. The moll remarkable of thefe are — Her- cules Vanquilhing the centaur NefTus, by Giovanni Bologna, near the cathedral. In the Piazza del Gran Duca, a fountain with Neptune, eighteen feet high, in a conch drawn by four fea-horfes, and the tritons accompanying him ; in marble, by Ammanati : and twelve figures in bronze of nymphs, and tritons, furrounding the edge of the bafin, by Giovanni Bologna. Here is alfo an equeftrian ftatue in bronze of Cofmo I. by Gio- vanni Bologna. In the Boboli gardens is a fountain at the end of the great walk, with Neptune larger than life, the Ganges, Nile, and Euphrates, at his feet, upon a bafin of granite above twenty-two feet in diame- ter : this is by Giovanni Bologna. There is alfo Neptune in bronze, furrounded with fea monfters ; by Lorenzi : and in a grotto are four unfinilhed ftatues, defigned for the maufoleum of Pope Julius II. by Michelangelo. Before the church of the Servites, or TAnnon- ziata, is a large fquare, with light and elegant porticos, by Brunellefco. In the middle is an equeftrian ftatue of Ferdinand I. in bronze, by Giovanni Bologna. The fountains alfo are by him. Within the church itfelf is fome good fculpture by the fame hand. Before FLORENCE. GALLERY. 369 Before the church of S. Lorenzo, in the fquare, is a pedeftal, with baflirelievi, by Bandinelli. In feveral of the churches are ftatues and other fculp- ture, in a good tafte. Both palaces have a communication with the famous Gallery, which is the principal object of every Granger's attention at Florence. It is indeed an inexhauftible fund of entertainment in antique fculpture and painting ; open to the public from day-light till evening, except between the hours- of one and three. Here ftrangers have the freeft accefs; either walking about the open corridores at their leifure : or attended in the cabinets by the Cicerones, who look for a handfome gratuity at your departure *. The Gallery has been newly arranged ; has re- ceived confiderable improvements; and the en- trance to it has been entirely altered lately, accord- ing to the original defign of Giorgio Vafari. The afcent is now by a handfome well-lighted ftaircafe. In the veitibule are placed bufts of thofe princes of the houfe of Medicis who formed the gallery. Two antique wolf dogs guard the entrance to a fecond veftibule, which is an octagon. By this you enter the corridores, confifting of two narrow galleries, above 400 feet in length, connected by another gallery, about 130 feet long; all only * For a general account of the Gallery, fee Saggto Ifiorm della Rep! Galleria di FirenZe, in two volumes o&avo, 1779. B b twenty- < ;o FLORENCE. GALLERY. twenty-two feet in breadth. Thefe corridores are furnilhed on either fide with many antique, and fome modern ftatues ; bufts of the Emperors, Em- preffes, and other famous perfonages of Rome; with a vaft abundance of paintings and other cu- riofities. 1 he ceilings are painted with fymbols of the arts and fciences, civil and military vir- tues, Sec; and with portraits of fuch Tnfcans as have mod excelled in each. The moft remarkable of the fi nines are — Agrippa fitting ; and another lady, much finer, but the head modern. Mercury. Flora. Bacchus leaning on a little Faun. Four in bronze : the two beft, a Minerva, and a man in the toga, haranguing. NarciiTus. Ganymede with the eagle. Jupiter. Bacchus, by Sanfovino ; and another by Michel- angelo. A copy of the Laocoon, by Bandinelli. An antique wild boar, in white marble. Bujh of all the Roman Emperors and Emprefies, except fix, are ranged along one fide, and are accompanied by other famous Romans. The mod rare of thefe are Otho, Pertinax, Didius Julianus, Herennius, Didia Clara, Manlia Scan- tilla,. Ncrva, Annius Verus, and Antinous. The beft are thought to be Caligula, Galba, Hadrian, Marcus FLORENCE. GALLERY. 37I Marcus Aurelius, Lucius Verus, Agrippina, ' Plautius, Commodus, Cicero, and Seneca. Paintings of all the fchools, to the number of 135, are hung up in thefe corridores. And from them you enter the feveral Cabinets. A little room ferving as a vejlibule to the reft. Statues, bufts, and bas-reliefs. As Ganymede, a ftatue, reftored by Benvenuto Cellini. Cupid and Pfyche, a little greek group. Cabinet of modern coins and medals* In this room, belides the coins and medals, are Tome bulls, bas-reliefs, and pictures. Cabinet of Cupid. So called from a fmail greek ftatue of Cupid alleep on a table. In this room, befides a few buffo and an ala- bafter vafe, are twenty-eight pi&ures; among which is an excellent one by Giacomo da Empoli, of S. Ivo fitting, reading petitions prefented to him by widows and orphans. Cabinet of Miniatures. Here is a collection of 605 portraits in minia- ture, in feventy-two frames, fixty of which formed the portable cabinet of Cardinal Leopold di Me- dicis, the original collector : the other twelve were added in 178 1. Few of thefe are now B b 2 known, 372 FLORENCE. GALLERY. known, except Como L Francis I. Como III. Henry IV. of France, Mary of Medicis, Vittoria della Rovere, Cardinal Richelieu, Erafmus, Are- tin, and ibme others of lefs note. In the middle of the room is a fpiral column of oriental alabafter ; on the top an antique ftatue of a child in a toga, fuppofed to be Britannicus or Nero. The ceiling is painted with phyfical and mechanical inftruments. In niches are twenty-one fmall flatues and twenty- three bulls ; befides fe- veral flatues on the floor. The moft famous of all the cabinets is the Tribune, which is an octagon, terminating in a cupola, by which alone it is lighted: the floor is paved with the finefl marbles in elegant compart- ments. Statues. The famous Venus of Medicis. The Lottatori or wreftlers. The Arrotino, employed in whetting a knife, and feeming to be in the attitude of liflening. The dancing Faun. The little Apollo. There are twenty-fix pictures in the room, all choice ones. S. John Baptift, and three other pieces, by Raffaelle. The naked Venus, by Ti- ziano. And fome of the befl: performances of Michelangelo, FLORENCE. GALLERY. 373 Michelangelo, Andrea del Sarto, Bartolommeo, Annibale Carracci, &c. Cabinet of works in ferra cotta. Vafes, porcelaine, &c. Cabinet of Drawings, Upwards of 220 large volumes of Drawings. Prints and loofe drawings in the tables. Eighty- drawings hung up. Bufts, &c. Cabinet of FlemiJJj PiBures* In the firft room, fmall bufts of Vitellius and Hadrian. A ftatue of Venus anadyomene. And 145 pictures, chiefly of the Flemifh and Dutch School ; among which are many charming ones, by Mieris, Gerard Douw, Netfcher, Vander- werff, &c. In the fecond room, which is much larger than any of the former, are two fine tables of florentine mofaic. The pictures in this room amount to 209, and are of all the fchools, but particularly the Flemifli. Cabinet of precious ftones, &c. Four columns of verd-antique, and four of oriental alabafter. Six cabinets, with near 400 vafes, cups, &c. of cryftal, agate, jafper, &c. Eight fmall ftatues. Several bufts in precious B b 3 ftones. 374 FLORENCE." GALLERY.' {tones. Intaglios and cameos, ranged on tables in cafes. Cabinet of ancient Medals. The medals are in twelve cabinets : the whole number is 14,730, of which 11 12 are gold, and 3751 filver. There are alfo thirty-four pictures in this room. Cabinet of the portraits of Painters. This colled ion admits no portraits but fuch as are done by the artift himfelf. They are 329 in number, or thereabouts, and fill two rooms ; in the fiift is an antique ftatue of Cupid — in the fe- cond, the famous urn of the villa Medici ; the ftatue of cardinal Leopold, who made the collec- tion, &c. Cabinet of Infcriptions, and Bujls in marble. Befides the greek and roman Infcriptions, there are many urns, mile-ftones, bas-reliefs, &c. Bufts of Seneca, Demofthenes, Plato, Homer, &c. Round the room are feveral antique cippi, on which bulls are placed ; on one of them the fa* mous coloflal head of Alexander ; on another, the unfinilhed Brutus, by Michelangelo. Other bufts are placed on feveral terms. In the middle of the 10cm is Hercules fubduing the centaur; and an antique Torfo. Two other Torfos are by the fide q{ the window. Cabinet FLORENCE. GALLERY. 375 Cabinet of the Hermaphrodite, Statues. The Hermaphrodite, from whence the room takes its name. Adonis, by Michelangelo. Apollo. Venus czeleftis and viclrix : thefe two were in the tribune. Bacchus. Forty-eight pic- tures. In the middle, an o&agon table of floren- tine work, &c. Cabinet of Niobe. A handfome falon, fitted up by the late Grand Duke, now Emperor, for ISIiobe and her fourteen children, ftatues by different hands, but all by greek artifts. There are fix pictures in this room. Cabinet of ancient Pitlures. Thefe are of the florentine fchool only — Cima- bue, Giotto, Gaddi, Giovanni Angelica, Sec. Here are alfo fome ftatues and bufts by Donatello, and other old Florentine fculptors, Cabinet of Modern Bronzes. Cabinet of Antique Bronzes, Arranged in fourteen cafes. Tufcan Mufeunu Urns, he. in terra cotta— and fome in alabafter. Director's room. Jlead of Oliver Cromwell, in plafter. B b 4 Head 376 FLORENCE. MUSEUM, Head of a Faun, by Michelangelo. The object- glafs of Galileo's telefcope, Sec. Corridore leading to the Palace, Portraits of the Medicis family, on board *. In the Torrigiano palace, adjoining to the Grand Duke's, or Palazzo Pitti, is the Gafrinetto di Fifica, or Mufeum of Natural Hiftory and Philofophy. It is ncceflary to have an order from the Grand Duke to fee this collection, which confifts of a feries of molt curious anatomical preparations in wax ; quadrupeds, birds, fifties, (hells, petrifac- tions, minerals, ftones, materia medica, woods, &c; a long gallery full of aftronomical and phyfical machines; a room with a large electrical appara- tus, and another in which are preferved the ancient machines of the Academy del Cimento. Dr. TargionS alfo has a good cabinet of natural hiftory, particularly of Tufcany f. * A catalogue of the whole gallery in three fmall volumes was printed in 1783, entitled — Defcription de la Galerie Royale de Flo- rence \ par M. Francois Zacchiroli Ferrarois. f lie is a man of confiderable learning, and has publiJlhed fe- veral valuable works. There are many learned perfons atFlo» rence, as Abbate Felice Fontana, S. Michelangelo Targioni, Sav. Ferd. Manetti, Antonio Durazzini, Ranierj MafFei, Abbate Giovanni Lapi, S. Fabrini, S. Nardini the famous mufician, Signora Maddalena Morelli, the celebrated Improvifatrice, com- monly called the Gorilla: Dr. Bicchierai, Dr. Perelli, Dr. Gua- dagni, S. Bandini, S. Nelli,.&c. FLORENCE. PALACES. 377 The Magliabecchi and Marucelli Libraries are each of them open to the public, on three different days of the week. And befldes the Mediceo-Lau- renziana, feveral of the Convents have public Libraries. TheprincipalPalacesofthenobilityare,Riecardi*', Gerini, * The ceiling of the gallery, reprefenting the apotheofisof Cof- mo I, by Luca Giordano. The ceiling of the library by the fame. Four rural fubje&s, in one of which he has introduced Bianca Capella, by Zucchero. The four Evangelifts, S. John the belt. The Virgin and child with flowers. Chrift bearing his Crofs. All three by Carlo Dolce. An old woman furrounded with ba&ets and kettles, plucking a fowl, by Rembrandt. Several portraits by him. Venus and Cupid in Vulcan's mop— and Noah's ark, by Baf- fano. The Virgin adoring Chrift, S. John by them, and God in the clouds, by Fra. Filippo ^LippL Several battle pieces, by Borgognone. A bearded old man with a book, by Spagnoletto. S. John the Evangelift, by Larrfranco. Ariadne, by Furino. The four feafons, by Salviati. The Virgin, Chrift, S. John and Elifabeth, by Parmegiano. Several portraits, by Tiziano. The Magdalene furrounded by Angels, by Vanni. The alliance of painting with poefy, fculpture and architec- ture, by Battoni. The Virgin, Chrift, S. John and Jofeph : by the fame. A child, 378 FLORENCE.^ PALACES. Gerini *i Corfini, Capponi, Arnaldi, Strozzi, &c. A child, by Parmegiano. Two little Brueghels. Several architectures, by Peter Nefs. The Virgin, Chrift, Jofeph, Bifhops, Saints and Angels, by Schidone. Virgin and Child— and, a portrait, by Albert Durer. Kine pairing the water in a boat, by Ruyfdahl. Another landfcape, by him. A landfcape, by Claude. Chrift and S. John, by Rubens. Two views of Florence, by Oechiali. Two views of Venice, by Canaleti. A iliooting-piece— and, a woman with cats, by Briglia. Four pieces, by Van Vliet. Cattle, architecture and figures, by Weenix. Pieces, by Teniers, Wouvermans, Berghem, and other Dutch and Flemifti Mailers. A room filled with good drawings by Guercino, Sec. * Two long landfcapes — fix battles— and two fmall ditto ^ Pandolfo Refchi. Ten flower pieces ; Andr. Scacciati. Six landfcapes, by different Flemifli painters. Fim market ; Tintoretto. Deftru&ion of Pharaoh ; Borgognone. Portrait of an old man in black ; Tiziano. Virgin, child, and S. John; Jacopo Pontormo. Young woman fcratching an old one's head. Magdalene, half figure ; Cav. Perugino, Large battle, -i The Second Room. Holy FLORENCE. PALACES. 379 The two firft have confiderable colle&ions of pic- tures. Holy family, with a dance of boy angels ; Vandyck. Woman afleep and a man wounded ; Biliverti. Virgin and child, half figures, large as life ; Carl. Dolce, Women carrying fire ; Crefpi. Old man and woman, half figures. Danae, half figure; Francefco Taurino. AfTumption ; AleJT. Gherardini. .Chrift on the crofs, two figures below ; Ann. Carracei. Two infides of churches ; P. Nefs. Sea piece. A picture, by M. Ang. della Bambocc. Hagar and the Angel, by Matteo Roflelli. Charity ; Carlo Maratti : finilhed by AlefT. Gherardini, Judith with the head of Holofernes, half figure; Tiziano. Old man with a fiddle, half figure ; Volterrano. Two fea ports; Vernet. Two landfcapes ; Giuf. Zocchi. Gallery. Adam and Eve and the Deity ; Fr. Taurino. Triumph of Bacchus ; Ciro Ferri. Its companion ; P. da Cortona. Holy family and S. Catharine; P. Veronefe. Portrait of an old man, with money before him ; Tiziano. Burial of Chrift ; Giac. BafTano. Portrait of a man and woman, ftyle of Holbein. A long emblematical picture ; Seb. Conca. S. Paul the hermit, or S. Onufrio; S. Mary the Egyptian, companion ; Spagnoletto. Portrait of a man with a gorget; Rembrandt. Man with a flute, half figure ; Cav. Morellio. Magdalene, half figure; Guercino. S, Sebaftian, 3S0 FLORENCE. PALACES. tures. Palazzo Riccardi was built in 1430, by Cofmo, S. Sebaflian, half figure; Guido. Portrait of a young man in a red bonnet ; Al. Bronzino. Simeon with Clirift ; Guido. Portrait of an old man with a white beard ; Tiziano. S. Peter, head and hands; Guercino. Magdalene with a red book ; Franc. Taurino. Head of a young man, fhidy; Barroccio. Small holy family ; RafFaelle. Coronation of the virgin, fketch; Rubens. Virgin and child ; Vandyck. Head of a man in a ruff. Head of an old woman. Yourg and old woman; Ang. Corofielli. Wc rnan in a cloak, half figure ; P. Veronefe. Pattoral, by Solimene. Holy family and angels as large as life ; Volterrano. Holy family and S. John; Biliverti. Two pictures, a woman half naked in each ; Fr. Taurino. S. Andrew on his knees before his crofs ; Carl. Dolce, 1646. Noli me tangere and a faint, faid Albano. Two warm flemifti landfcapes. Paftoral, fmall. Head of a young woman ; Fr, Taurino. Chrift bearing his crofs, large upright; Volterrano. S. Francis on his knees, largo upright ; Cigoli. Ezechiel's vifion of dry bones. A woman in ecftafy, and S. Francis, half figures; both by Fr. Yanni. Head of a woman crowned with laurel, and a fingle half figure of a woman; both by Fr. Taurino. Two fiemifh landfcapes. Two old heads. Two others. Three FLORENCE. PALACES. ' 3§I Cofmo, of the houfe of Medicis, furnamed Father of his Country. Befides the pictures, there is a cabinet Three very old pi&ures, many fmall figures in each. David with the head of Goliath, half figure ; Lorenzo Lippi. Portrait of a woman — Venetian. Portrait of a youngifh man in black ; Tiziano. Portrait of a lady ; ditto. Another Room* AiTumption ; Carlo Maratti. Bacchanals ; Livio Meus. Two pieces of ruins, and architecture ; Ottavio Viviano. Two long landfcapes, and two fmaller upright; Pandolfo Refchi. Dead Chrift much forefhortened; A, Tiarini. Three nymphs afleep and a man ; M» A. delle Bambocciate, Marriage of the virgin, (ketch ; P. da Cortona. Portrait of a woman, bigger than life ; Andr. del Sarto. Mofes half figure, bigger than life. Portrait of a painter ; Abr. Bloemart. Fortune fitting on a globe. Young woman and cupid ; Fabrizio Bofchi. Cupid and Pfyche; Giov. di San Giovanni. Portrait of a woman ; Santi di Tito. Horfe and dog. — Small landfcape. Piece of ruins ; Ott. Viviano. Two dark paftorals ; Flemifh. Cleopatra and ferpent, head and hands. A Capuchin, faid Lanfranco. Head of a man with a white beard ; Tiziano. Head of a woman ; Cecchino del Frate. portrait of a man in a ruff; Julius Sutermans, feems to be Ferdinand II. Charity, a large upright ; Ant. Biliverti, 7 Blind 3S2 FLORENCE. PALACES. cabinet of antiques — cameos, intaglios, medals, &e. and a library rich in manufcripts *. The Blind man with a bull and pictures ; Livio Meus. Architecture and bull baiting ; Viviano, Portrait of a man in a red bonnet, 7 , Tr • jv, • r by Luca Cranach. Woman in ditto, companion. y 1 Head of a man ; Calabrefc. Two heads, by Genovefe. Painting and half figure, Guido Cagnacci, Old man fitting in white. Head like a portrait of Mich. Angelo. Autumn and fpring, two little pictures. Long landfcape with horfemen, by Refchi. Man binding a woman, and a boy cutting the firing. ' Adoration of the fhepherds, Fr. Baftano. Battle, faid by Salv. Rofal Two upright Flemifh landfcapes. Portrait of a young man, head, Giov. di S. Giovanni. Another. Adoration of the fhepherds, by M. A. Caravagio. Battle and fea-port, both by Salv. Rofa. Purchafed lately. Two fmall whole figures of female faints, by Andr. Mantegna. Orpheus and the beafts, time of Paul Brill. Above flairs, a room full of pictures, of birds and fifties, very good. * Palazzo CoRSiNif. S. Peter taking a piece of money out of a fiAYs mouth, to pay the. tribute, by Spagnoletto ; fize greater than life. Miracle of S. Valentin, by Luca Giordano. f This, and the following places, are from Cochin. S. Sebaftian, FLORENCE. PALACES. 3S3 The houfe in which Michelangelo Buonarroti lived, is an object of curiofity to fuch as have a pleafure in feeing the remains of extraordinary perfons. There are paintings reprefenting the principal actions of his life ; and fome pieces faid to be by his own hand. There S. Sebaftian, by Carlino Dolce ; half figures, fize of life. The Magdalene in the pharifee's houfe, fketch, by Luca Gior- dano. Two landfcapes, by Salvator Rofa. Two heads, by Caravaggio. The Virgin, by Andrea del Sarto. Three pictures, by Borgognone. Baptifm of S. John, by Santi di Tito. Two pictures, by Borgognone. Holy family, by Ruffino di Schiera. S. Francis, by Cigoli. Lucretia killing herfelf, half figure, iize of life. Two fetches, by Volterrano. A man cutting fiih on a table, on which are fome houfehold vef- fels, by Caravaggio. The Virgin, iize of life, by M. Jufte. Two pictures, with a head in each ; by Volterrano. Head of Chrift dead, by Cigoli, fize of life. An unfinifhed head, faid by Vandyck. Head of a . woman crowned with laurel, by Carlino Dolce. Two fmall pictures by Albano ; in one a fatyr playing on the flute, and four children dancing. Two pictures, by BafTano. Two finifhed fketches, by Brufcoli, both reprefenting the unit- ing of Chrift. Two others, by the fame matter— -one, Chrift praying in the garden.— the other, his burial. The 384 FLORENCE. PALACES. THEATRES. There are feveral Theatres in Florence, all open during the Carnival, which begins the day after The virgin, with angels, half figures, fize of life; by Andrea del Sarto. S. Andrew in the hands of the executioner, fajd by Spagnoletto. A portrait, faid by Bronzino. Venus and Cupid lamenting Adonis, half figures fize of life, faid by Ann. Carracci. S. John Baptift, faid alfo by him. In the Chapel — The virgin, and a bifhop below ; by Carlo Ma- ratti. On the ground floor — Three fketches for ceilings, by Luca Gior- dano. ^Eneas healed of his wound, and his combat with Turnus, fize of life ; both by Luca Giordano. . Arnaldi, A child, fize of life, faid by Guido. An allegory — Venus on a bed, and other pictures ; by Carl© . Maratti. Jofeph and Potiphar's wife, by Carlo Cignani. Ceri ni. A few good pictures, and many indifferent, mod of them by modern matters. Portrait of Vandyck, by himfelf. Pi&ures, by Borgognone. Cappo ni. Marfyas flayed by Apollo. Cain and Abel, with God queftioning the former. Two pi&ures, by Guercino. S. Andrew retting on his crofs, perhaps by Spagnoletto. S. Jerom, by Spagnoletto. And many other very indifferent pi&ures; Chriftmas FLORENCE. MANUFACTURES. 385 Chriftmas-day, and lafts till afh-wednefday : at other times alfo one of them is open, except in lent and advent. The two principal are the Pergola, finilhed in 1755; and the new Opera houfe, firft opened in the year 1779. This is very elegant ; but the ftage is not fo fpacious as in the Pergola : it has five rows of boxes, 106 in all ; the pit will fcarcely hold 400. There is a little theatre, di Santa Maria lata, for burlettas ; and another, which is larger, wherein comedies are performed. The city appears in its greateft brilliancy at the borfe-races, which are at the enc! of june. The horfes run, as ufual in Italy, without riders, from the weft gate, at a place called // Prato, to Porta la Croce, which is two miles : the prize is a piece of velvet, of fixty braccie. The manufactures of Florence are chiefly filks and fatins, which are excellent. The woollen ma- nufactory, to which it owes the greateft part of its opulence and fplendour* now fcarcely fupplies the common people. Their jewelry is fallen to no- thing. At Doccia, three leagues from the city, is a manufactory of Porcelaine. The Florentines have been long famous for their Mofaic work, which is very different from the Roman ; much more expenfive and lefs beautiful : it is made of the finer marbles, agates, jafpers, and other natural hard ftones, fawn thin, and inlaid in form of birds, flowers, &c. The wine of the neighbourhood is C c excellent , ^S6 FLORENCE. ENVIRONS. excellent ; and they have a confiderable trade for it; both in Italy and other countries. In the environs, there is Poggio, or Villa Impe- riale, only a mile and half out of town. This is the Grand Duke's favourite country refidence ; and he has laid out a confiderable fum, in fitting up and furnifhing it. Poo-n-io a Caiano is another feat, farther off. This contains a collection of beautiful cabinet pictures, by Italian and Flemifh matters : and allegorical paintings of the hiftory of the houfe of Medicis, by Andrea del Sarto, Franciabigio, Jacopo da Pon- tormo, and AlefTandro Allori. Six miles from Florence is another country- houfe of the Grand Duke's, called Pratotino, where there are gardens and water-works, and a ftatue of the Apennine fixty feet high. In the upper ftory of the houfe is a little Theatre, where, during the reigns of the Medici, operas were conftantly acted during the fummer feafon. The Grand Dutchy of Tufcany is 116 miles in length from north to fouth, and eighty in breadth from eaft to weft. The population is eflimated at a million ; and there is fuppofed to have been an addition of 72,000 fince the fucceilion of Francis I. Its products are grain, filk, flax, oil, wine, and agrumu It abounds in minerals, but the mines are not much worked, except in the illand of Elba, remarkable for its fine iron ore. The falt-works are DUTCH Y OF TUSCAN Y. 387 are in good order ; and they make fome fulphur. It produces alabafter and chalcedony : lapis lazuli and borax at Maria; amethyfts at Piombino; jaf- per at Barga; black flate, iron ore, marble, and cornelians, at Stazzena and Seravezza ; mercury near Sevigliani ; filver, alum, honey, &c. The natural productions of Tufcany are largely treated of by the learned Dr. Giovanni Targioni Tozzetti, in his Viaggi per la Hofcana % SECTION XT. Excurfion to Lucca, Pifa, Leghorn, &c. and Journey to Venice. If you did not go by fea from Genoa to Leg- horn, you muft now make an excurfion from Flo- rence to that place by Prato and Piftoia to Lucca, and from thence to Pifa. The church of S. Anto- nio at Piftoia, will flop fuch as are curious in paint- ings of the old mafters : there are alfo frefcos by Puccio Capanna, in the churches of S. Francis and S. Dominic. * The common Florence guide is entitled — L'Antiquario, o fia Guida per offervar le cofe notabile della Citta di Firenze. There are many books which treat of the architecture, anti- quities, and curiofities of Florence. The magnificent work, called Mufeum Florentinum, is well known. C C % LUCCA 388 LUCCA. Lucca is interefting, as being the capital of a little republic, which for its extent is the richeft and beft-peopled ftate of Italy. The territory is forty miles in length, and fifteen in breadth, con- taining about 400 fquare miles. The population is about 1 20, coo, of which 20,000 in the capital. An air of cheerfulnefs and plenty appears among the people ; and their fcanty foil is improved to the utmoft. The mountains are covered with vines, olives, chefnuts, and mulberries : their olives and oil are in great efteem. Towards the fea much cattle is fed in the meadows and marfhes. No beggars or idle people are to be feen in this repub- lic; nor has luxury yet corrupted the manners. The habit of ceremony is black; and the Gonfalo- niere is the only perfon who wears lace : there are no titles, and nobody wears a fword. The militia is 20,000; but 6000 only are in fervice and pay. The armoury is neatly kept, and capable of fur- nifhing 25,000 men with arms. The capital city has neither good ftreets, nor hand- fome buildings. ThePalazzoPublko, or Town-hall, is partly by Ammanate,and partly by FilippoGiuvara*. * The infant Jefus in the arms of the Virgin, with a monk and 2 nun adoring ; by Paolini. Hercules and Omphale, by Luca Giordano. A banker fettling his accounts, by Albert Durer. The Samaritan woman, by Guercino. A concert, by Tiziano. There Lucca. 389 There is nothing elfe to be feen except fome old pictures in the churches *• Round * Cathedral. Virgin, child, and four faints ; by Domenico Ghirlandaio. Se- ven fmall pictures under it, and one over it ; all by him. Virgin, child, three angels, and two faints ; by Bartolommeo. The refurrection, by Guidotti of Lucca. The annunciation, by Leonardo da Piftoia. Chrift between the thieves, by Paffignano. The laft fupper, by Tintoretto. The adoration of the Magi, by Fed Zuccheri. The nativity, a moon-light, by Paffignano. S. George, by Bronzino. The nativity of the virgin, by Paggk The vifitation, by Ligozzi, The affumption, by Sori of Siena. ■S. Petronilla, whole figure, faid to be by Daniel di Volterra, The prefentation, by AlefT. Bronzino. S. Martin dividing his cloak, by Girolamo Scaglia. Some ancient pictures on gilt grounds. The judgment of Solomon* inlaid in the floor. There is alfo painted glafs in the windows, which is not common in Italy. S. dgojlino. The annunciation, by Francefco Vanni, And feveral old pictures. S. Frediano. Virgin, child, and faint. — A Pieta with two angels ; both by Fr. Francia. A chapel, by Amico Bolognefe. And many old pictures. S. Maria. S. Lucia on her knees, the Virgin in the clouds; by Guercino. C c 3 A Sibyl 390 Lucca. Round the ramparts is a pleafant walk or drive, of three miles in extent ; and here the company affemble after dinner, or in the evening. The cli- mate is temperate, and the country round delight- ful, ornamented with abundance of charming coun- try houfes. The road from Lucca to Pifa is narrow and in- different, through a flat country of corn fields, fur- rounded with poplars fupporting vines. A Sibyl — and the martyrdom of S. Bartholomew ; faid to be by Pietro Tefta. S. Maria Cottalandina. The aflumption, by Luca Giordano. Chrift: on the crofs, S. Catharine and S. Maurice below. Virgin, child, and two angeh in the air, S. Lucia and the Mag- dalene below : thefe are companions, and both by Guido. S. Pietro Civoli. The Virgin and two other figures, by Pietro Perugino. The aflumption, by Vafari. • S. PonZiano. S. Bernard, &c. — and the aflumption ; by Crefpi. Martyrdom of S. Bartholomew, by Pompeio Battoni. S. Romano. God, the Magdalene, and S. Catharine* by Bartolommeo. Chrift in the clouds, the Virgin interceding, S. Domenico with many women and children, figures large as life ; a fine pic - ture by the fame. A full account of thefe may be had from a little book, enti- tled — ;*/ forejiiere informato delk cofc di Lucca. PlSA, PISA. 391 Pisa, divided like Florence by the Arno, over Which it has three bridges* is fituated in a fine open country. A magnificent broad quay on each fide the river, the cathedral, baptiftery, leaning tower, convents, churches, &c. give it an air of grandeur in defiance of poverty and defolation. Though it is a large city, it has only about 15,000 inhabitants ; and no commerce or manu- factories. It is interefting however to a ftranger, on account of the many learned men, and the good fociety which he will find here. The markets are well fupplied with provifions and fruit at reafonable rates ; and houfe-rent is extremely cheap. It is to be preferred as a winter refidence to mod cities in Italy, on account of the mildnefs of the air : but it is almoft deferted in fummer by reafon of the con- front flagnation of vapours. There are fome remarkable buildings in Pifa : as the Duomo, the architect of which was Buf- chetto, a Greek, who began it, according to fome accounts, in 1016, according to others in 1063. It has many fine columns of porphyry, granite, jafper, verd-antique, &c. taken from ancient build- ings. The bronze gates are extremely curio.u*, and were made by Bonanno*; thofe by Giovanni * The hiilory fays that the old gates were deftroyed by fire in 1595, and in 1601 were recaft by Giovanni $ologna. C c 4 Bologna 39 2 Pisa. Bologna fliut the two frnaller entrances at the weft end *. The * Dw.mo. Virgin and child with faints, by Criftofano Allori. The doctors of the church, by Francefco Vanni. Pietro Gambacorta, prefenting himfelf, with others, before Pope Urban VII. large, by Sebaftiano Conca. The fame, inftituting his order, by Mancini. S. Barbara, &c. with the Virgin and Chrift in glory, by il Sog- liano. S. Ranieri excrcifing a demoniac, by Domen. Muratori. The fame, forfaking the world, by Benedetto Luti. His death, by Giufeppe Milani. The fame, raifing a dead pejfon, by Felice Torelli. The Magdalene, &c. at the foot of the crofs, by Giov.Viliberti, The confecration of the church by Gelafius II. in 1118, by Pie- tro Soria. The triumph of the Pifans, when they returned from the con- quer!: of Majorca and Minorca, by Domen. Paflignano. — Both thefe pi&ures are fpoiled. S. Peter and S. John, fingle figures, kneeling; S.Margaret and S. Catharine : all by Andrea del Sarto. Chrift, Mary, and S. John, mofaic ; by Jacopo da Turrita, Gaddo Gaddi, and Vicino, 1321. Abraham and the angels, by Gio. Stefano Marufcelli. Samfon difcomfiting the Philiftines with the jaw bone, by Ora- zio Riminaldi. The feaft of Ahafuerus and Either, by Cofimo Gamberucci. Marriage at Cana, in the ftyle of Guidotti. Judith giving the head of Holofernes to her maid, by Matteo Vannini. The offering of the (View-bread, by Michele Cinganelli. Elijah pisa: S93 The Baptiftery is a rotunda built after the defigns of Diotifalvi, in the middle of the twelfth century. Within Elijah afleep under the juniper, by Rutilio Manetti. God appearing to Mofes in the burning bulh, by Matteo Rof- felli. Mofes linking the rock, by Cav. Guidotti. The adoration of the ferpent in the wildernefs, by Orazio Ri- minaldi. Miracle of the loaves and fillies, by Aurelio Lomi. Habakuc carried by the angel to feed Daniel, by Giov.ViliberU. S. Matthew and S. Mark, and the hiftory of Korah, Dathan, and Abiram; by Domenico Beccafumi, called Mecherino. Cain kneeling, and laying corn on an altar, by Ant. Sogliano* The death of Chrift — and, the taking down from the crofs ; by Ant. Sodoma da Vercelli. S. Peter and S. Paul, two fmall pictures, by Clementone Geno- vefe. Abel offering a lamb — and, the facrifice of Noah ; by Sogliano. Abraham and Ifaac, by Sodoma. The Israelites fed with manna, by Ventura Salimbeni, S. Luke and S. John, by Beccafumi. Five iaints of Pifa, by Cav. Franc. Currado — fpoiled. The annunciation, an ancient mofaic. The nativity — adoration of the Magi— and, circumcilion, by Aurelio Lomi. Chrift with the doctors, by Pietro Sorio — four large pictures in the chapel of the facrament. Chrift healing the blind, by Aurelio Lomi. God and angels, by Salimbeni. Martyrdom of the faints, by Paffignani. Saints confe fling the faith, by Gio. Batifta Paggi. S. Filippo Neri, by Pietro da Cortona. Virgin and child, fchool of Andrea del Sarto. S. Thomas Aquinas,, by Eenozzo Gozzoli. S. Torpe, 394 PISA - Within it has eight columns of Sardinian granite $ with another row over them fupporting a cupola : in the middle ftands a large oftagon marble font *. The Campanile, or leaning tower, was finimed in 1 1 74. It is about one hundred and fifty feet high, and near fifteen feet out of the perpendicular f. The Campo Santo, or burial place, is a court, fur- rounded by a portico of fixty arches, of a very light gothic, begun in 1278 from defigns of Gio- vanni Pifano. The walls of the cloifter are painted in frefco with facred hiftories, by the firft reftorers of painting : the moft important of them now re- S. Torpe, by Salvator Rofa. S. Agnes with a lamb, by Andrea del Sarto. S. Andrew, S. James, and a Bilhop— Virgin and child ; both by Sogliano. S. Antony of Padua, by Pietro da Cortona. In the cupola — the alTumption in oil, by Orazio Riminaldi, much hurt. The four evangelifts in the corners, &c. frefco, by Cinganelli. * Baptijlery. A copy of the pi&ure at the altar of S. Barbara in the Duomo, by Sogliano. The marriage in Cana, by Aurelio Lomi. S. John preaching in the wildernefs, by the fame, much hurt* The fame fubjed, by the fame painter. The miracle of the loaves and rimes, by Franc. Vanni. \ Mr. Dutens fays one hundred and ninety feet high, and thirteen feet out of the perpendicular. maining pisa. S9B maining are, about thirty-three pieces of the hiftory of the old teftament, from the creation to Solomon; they fill the whole fide oppofite the entrance, and, except the four firft, were painted by Benozzo Gozzoli, who finiflied them in 1476 t. There are many good pictures, as ufual, in the churches f, and in fome of the palaces. Ttie * Campo Santo. The hiftory of Job, in fix compartments, by Giotto. Our lady, by Stefano, fcholar of Giotto. The lives of the Holy Fathers, by the principal gate ; by Fietro Laurati, Sanefe. Four ftories from the creation to the building of the ark ; in a frieze is his portrait. Alfo the pamon of Chrift, by Buffal- macco. The alTumption of our Lady, over the principal gate ; and un- der this, the life of S. Ranieri, in three pictures, by Simonc Memmi. The laft judgment, and all the ranks of nobility and gentry, both male and female ; by Andrea di Cione Orgagna. The hiftory of S. Ranieri — his own portrait, by Antonio Vmi- ziano. Six ftories of S. Petitus and S, Epirus, by Spinello. Our Lady crowned by Chrift, with angels; by Taddeo di Bartolo, The foregoing account of the very curious ancient paintings, in this burial ground, is extracted from Vafari. Unfortunately* his account is all that remains of fome, which the falts in the walls have deftroyed, in whole, or in part. Many of them, ef- pecially Orgagna's, feem to have been much injured by re- painting. f S. Andrea foris porta. Holy family, by Aurelio Lomi. $. Andrew 396 PISA. The Sapienza, or Univerfity, has an Obfervatory (Torre delta fpecola) furnilhed with good Englifh inftruments ; S. Andrew retting on his crofs, by Aurelio Lomi. S. Peter and S. Andrew before a crucifix, and a glory of an- gels ; by Giuf. Franchi. S. Bar nab a. Crucifix with angels, by Orgagna, San Benedeti§. The repofe in Egypt, by Giufeppe Milani. S. Benedict with children, by Clementone. Carmine, The annunciation, by Andrea Bofcoli. The afTumption, by Baccio Ciarpi. Virgin and child, with S. Bernard, S. Barbara, Sec. by Antonio Sogliano. Small virgin and child, very old. Mary Magdalene, by Pazzi. Pi&ures in the choir, reprefenting the herefy of Neftorius, and the confirmation of the rule of the Carmelites, &c. by the brothers Nafini of Siena. The nativity — and presentation in the temple; by Tommafo Tommafi. In the cupola, the fame painter has reprefented God with angels, in frefco. S. Vittoria with other faints, a fmall piflure, by Piaftrini. The crucifixion, with the Virgin and faints ; by Girolamo Mac- chietti. The afcenfion, by Bronzino, 1^81. S. Lucia, and other faints, by Aurelio Lomi. S. Andrea Corfini, with an angel and the virgin Mary; by Cav, Currado. . Paul preaching — baptifm of Conftantine ; by Paolo Piazza. // Redentore. The Virgin, S. Jerom and S. Francis, by Gian Bellino.— The Virgin with the infant Jefus afleep, and two Angels.— In the facility ; by the fame. The Virgin, S. John, and S. Catha- rine, by the fame, in the facrifty. The afcenfion — and the flagellation ; by Tintoretto. TJie Baptifm of Chrift, by Paolo Veronefe, in the facrifly. The VENICE. CHURCHES. 441 fe&ory, Chrift at the Pharifee's houfe. He painted the facrifty when he was twenty-five years of age, and dying in 1588 was buried in this church, where there is his bnft, S. Simeon The fame fubje&, by Benedetto and Carletto Caliari, at the fecond altar on the right. Refurre&ion and Nativity, by Francefco BafFano. The taking down from the crofs, by Palma Giovine. The Virgin, S. Anne, S. Jerom, S. Francis, and S. Catharine; by the fame, in the facrifty. S. Francis with an angel, by Carlo Saracejii. The Virgin prefenting Chrift to S. Felix, with a glory of An- gels ; by Pietro Vecchia. S. Rocco. Chrift, a foldier prefenting the reed, and another foldier, heads 5 by Tiziano, S. Rocco healing the fick— in prifon confoled by an Angel- over thefe, the Saint healing animals, and conducted to pri- fon; all by Tintoretto. The pool of Bethefda — S. Kocco be- fore the Pope, and the annunciation ; by the fame. S. Chriftopher and S. Martin on horfeback with other by-ftand- ers; by Pordenone— this ceiling has been re-painted. Chrift driving the buyers and fellers out of the Temple— and on the ceiling, S. Rocco giving alms ; by Fumiani. The rinding of the crofs — and, a miracle of S. Francefco di Paola ; by Rizzi. S. Antony of Padua healing a young man, by Treyifani. 5. Sal vat ore. Chrift with the difciples at Emmaus, with a portrait; by Gian Bellino. The transfiguration, and annunciation ; by Tisjiano. Shutters of the organ, by Francefcp VeceJHo The 442 VENICE. CHURCHES. S. Simeon grande. S. Sofia. I Tolentini The Virgin, S. Antonio Abbate, S. John Baptift and S. Francis; by Palma Giovine. S. Sebaftiano. S. Niccolo with an angel, by Tiziano. The Virgin, S. Jerom, and S. Carlo; by Palma Giovine, &c. A?id in the facrijty. The plague of ferpents, by Tintoretto. *I Strut tL Dead Chrift with the Maries, by Rocco Marconi. Chrift with the Apollles, by Bonifacio. Adam and Eve, David and Solomon, on the mutters of the or- gan ; by Tizianello. The Virgin, S. John the Evangelift, S. Catharine and a Ser- vite ; by Polidoro Veneziano. S. Onofrio, S. James, and S. Tiziano ; by Corona. The nativity, by Baldaflare d' Anna. Slaughter of the Innocents^ by Lazarini. Dead Chrift, the Maries, and an Angel ; by Salviati. The battle of Conftantine againft Maxentius, by Calimberg, &c. S, Severo. The vifitation — and, the flagellation ; by Catena. The crucifixion, by Tintoretto. $. SilveJIro. S. Thomas, bimop, with S. John Baptift and S. Francis, by Santa Croce. 1520. Baptifm of Chrift — and, Chrift in the garden ; by Tintoretto. Adoration of the Magi, by Paolo Veronefe. The laft fupper, by Palma Vecchio. S. Elena with the crofs, S. Silveftcr and the Emperour Conftan- tine ; by Damiano Mazza. The nativity, by Carlo Loth, I The VENICE. CHURCHES. 443 ! Toientini : from defigns of Sanfovino's 5 adeemed a fine building ; and the portico good. S. Trovafoj The Pope conveyed to Heaven, a large ceiling, ]by Louis Do- rigny. S. Simeine Profeta. The refurre&ion, by Domenico Tintoretto. The prefentation, by Palma Giovine. S. Sofia. The laft fupper, by Paolo Veronefe. Marriage of the Virgin, by Domen. Tintoretto.' Chrift preaching, by Leandro Baffano* Adoration of the Ihepherds — and, birth of S. John Baptift ; by the fame. The annunciation, by Palma Giovine.' Lo Spedalstto a S. S. Gzov. e Paolo. God, and the Son crowning the Virgin ; by Damiano Mazza. The Virgin, S. John Baptift, S. James, and S. Francis ; by Er- manno Stroifi. S. Jerom and other faints, by Cav. Celefti. Dead Chrift, by Carlo Loth. Spirit 0 Santo. Adoration of the Magi, by Tintoretto. Striking of the rock, large, by Bellucci. Death of S. Jofeph— -Abraham and the three Angels— defcent of the Holy Ghoft, &c. by Cav. Bambini. Virgin, S. Jofeph, and S. Antony of Padua ; by Luca Giordano. Adoration of the Magi, by Gio. Carlo Loth. S. Stefano Prete. The affiimption of the Virgin, by Tintoretto. Birth — and, marriage of the Virgin — and, fall of manna ; by Girolamo Pilotto. Death 444 VENICE. CHURCHES. S. Trovafo, or S. S. Gervafo c Protafo. S. Zaccaria. Le Zitelle, by Palladia. The Death of S. Jofeph, by Lazarini. S. Vitale. The Virgin, S. Vitale and other faints, by Carpaccio. IC14. The refurrection and afcenfion — over the door of the Sacrifly, the annunciation, by Alienfe. Chrifl in the garden, by Mariotti. The conception, by Rizzi. S. Jofeph and S. Francis di Paola, by Pellegrini. S. SebafHan and S. Rocco, by Trevifani. The Angel Raphael and faints, by Piazzetta. V Umilta. Chrifl taken down from the crofs, by Tintoretto. The ceiling, by Paolo Veronefe. S. Peter and S. Paul, by Jacopo da Baflano. 5. Zaccberia. The Virgin fitting, and S. Peter, Jerom, Catharine and Agatha Handing below ; by Gian Bellino. The circumcifion, by the fame. S. Zaccheria conveyed to Heaven by angels — Virgin and faints —-the pictures of the organ — the flagellation — crowning with thorns — burial and refurreclion of Chrifl, at the high altar ; all by Palma giovinc. Marriage of the Virgin — and prefentation, &c. by Alienfe. The Pope, Emperour and Doge receiving the body of a Saint — and, the vifitation t>f the Pope to the monaflery, by Cav. Celefli. The purification, by Calvetti. Two large hiflories of the Church, by Fumiani. Adoration of the Magi, by Cav. Bambini. The VENICE. SCHOOLS. 445 The Scuole, belonging to the Confraternities, and anfwering to the halls of our Companies in London, are decorated with fome of the fineft paintings in Venice *. Scuofo The nativity, by Baleftra. The vifitation, by Angelo Trevifanl. Chrift, S. John Baptift, S. Zacheria, and S. S. Cofmo and Damiano healing a rick man, by Gius. Salviati. In the gacrijiy. The Virgin, S. Jofeph, S. Jerom, S. Francis, S. Juftina, and S. John Baptift young on a pedeftal; by Paolo Veronefe. Le Zi telle alia Giudecca. The prefentation in the temple, by Francefco BaiTano. Chrift in the garden, by Palma giovine. The Virgin, S. Francis and a Senator: by Aiienfe. * S C U O L E. Scuola dclla Car it a* The Virgin fitting, with four boys fupporting the canopy— oa the fide of the altar the four doctors of the church; an an- cient picture by Jacobello del Fiore. Prefentation of the Virgin, by Tiziano. Chrift led to Calvary — and, among the do&ors : by FumianL The conception, by Segala. Nativity of the Virgin— annunciation circumcifion of Chrift, — by Lazarini. Nativity of Chrift — and, taking down from the crofs, by Ba« leftra. Slaughter of the Innocents, by Sebaft. Rizzi. The afiumption, by Trevifani. S, Giovanni Evangeli/la* A ceiling by Tiziano, The 446 VENICE. SCHOOLS. Scuola della Carita is full of pi&ures : one of the prefentation in the temple, by Tiziano, is much efteemed. Scuola The transfiguration and other pictures, by Domenico Tinto- retto. Four pieces of vifions in the Revelations, by Palma giovine. Several ancient pictures by Carpaccio, Lazero Sebaftiani, Giov. Manfueti, Gentile Bellino, and Diana. S. Marco, a S. S. G'wv. e Paolo. Befides feveral ancient pictures by Manfueti, Gentile Bellino, and Vittore Belliniano 152'. There is a fine ftorm raifed by demons, and laid by a miracle of S. Mark, by Giorgione. A miracle of S. Mark, large, by Tintoretto. And three other's by him. A boatman prefenting the Doge a ring given him by S. Mark to afTuage a florin, by Paris Bordone. S. Mark appearing to a great number of perfons, among which are many portraits, by Domenico Tintoretto. De* Mercanti. The Virgin and S. Chriflopher — Nativity of the Virgin : both by Tintoretto. The Annunciation, by Paolo Veronefe. The actions of S. Chriflopher — ChriiVs pafiion, on the ceiling, below flairs. Above, the adoration of the magi — the ap- pearance of the angel to the lhepherds — and to Jofeph— - flight into Egypt, and the Virgin going to the temple : the ceiling painted with hiflories out of the old Teftament— in the inner room, or albergo, the afTumption, and on the ceiling the coronation of the Virgin : all by Domenico Tintoretto. The nativity of the Virgin, by Benedetto Caliari. Prefentation of Chrift in the temple, by Palma giovine. The VEttIC£. schools.' 44^ Scuola de Mercanti is almoft all painted by Do- menico Tintoretto and Alienfe. In the Albergo is the prefentation of Chrift 3 by Palma •, the birth of the Virgin, by Benedetto Veronefe, brother of Paolo : the virgin with S. Chriftopher, and the birth of the virgin ; both by Jacopo Tintoretto. Scuola grande Mia Mifericordia. The Albergo by Tintoretto. Scuola di S. Orfola. Painted by Vittore Carpac- cio, with the hiftory of this Britifli Saint, in nine pieces. The anions of S. Chriftopher in three pictures, by Alienfe. Above are five pictures by him, and figures of the Evangelifts on the ceiling. Delia Mifericordia. The Virgin covering fome monks with her mantle, by Paolo Veronefe, reftored by Padouanino. The pictures of the Albergo are by Domenico Tintoretto. Slaughter of the Innocents, by Zanchi. Flight into Egypt, &c. by Lazarini. Lodging pilgrims, one of the works of charity, by Bambini. Mofes ftriking the rock, by Pellegrini. The plague of ferpents, and another, by Ambrogio Bono. Cloathirg the naked, another of the works of charity, by Paolo Pagano. Di S. Rocco. Chrift dragged by the executioner ; by Tiziano. Almcft the whole of this School is painted by Tintoretto, and fome of his be ft performances are here. The peftilence of 1630, by Antonio Zanchi. The deiiroying angel fheathing his fword, at the interceffion of the Virgin and Saints, by Pietro Negri, Scuoh 44S VENICE. SCHOOLS. S. MARK ? S. Scuolo di S. Rocco. The whole painted by Tin- toretto. The moft capital piece is a large cruci- fixion, in the Albergo : in the ceiling of this room is the trial piece, which gained Tintoretto this work from his competitors. On S. Rocco's day, the Signory goes in proceiTion to that Saint's church : and the painters of the prefent Venetian fchool exhibit their performances in the Scuola. There are other Schools which deferve attention — as, Scuola di S. Fantino, di S. Marco, &x. The Palace of S. Mark, or the Ducal Palace, is very fpacious. Befides the apartments of the Doge, there are alfo halls and chambers for the Senate, and all the different Councils and Tribunals. The principal entrance is by the giant's ftaircafe, fo called from the coloffal ftatues of Mars and Nep- tune placed at the top, and intended to reprefent the naval and military power of the ftate ; they are of marble, and the work of Sanfovino. Under the portico, to which you afcend by this ftaircafe* are the lions mouths, placed to receive letters, in- formations of treafonable practices, and accufa- tions of magiftrates for abufes in office. From the palace is a covered bridge of communication with the (late prifon, on the other fide of the canal. Prifoners pafs to and from the courts over this bridge, and hence it is named ponte del fofpiri. Within the palace is a little Arfenal which com- municates with the hall of the great council: here it? VENICE. S. MARK'S. 449 it is faid a great number of mufquets are kept ready charged, that the nobles may arm themfelves in cafe of a fudden emergency. This palace is adorned with a profufion of noble pictures by- Paolo Veronefe, Tintoretto, and the other cele- brated matters of the Venetian fchool *. The * Palazzo Ducale. Juftice, and the Angels Miohael and Gabriel, by Jacobello del Fiore, 142 1 - — in Magiflrato del prcpr-o. S, Mark fitting, and on the fides S. Andrew, a u fhop— alfo Juftice and Temperance, by Conegii^o. Camera deV Armament 0, S. Mark fitting Jultice, S. Francis, S. Dcmenkc, 2nd the archangel Michael; by Bened. Diana.- — Magiflrato del/a Mi- lizia da mare, Chrift at table with the two difciples at Emmaus, by Tiziano— in a room near the Cappslla del Collegio: in the fame room, the Virgin and S. Jofeph, by Paris Bordone — -Pharaoh drowned in the Red Sea — and, Chriil in the limbus patrum — of the fchool of Tiziano —the refurreelion, by Tintoretto. Four philofophers, by Tintoretto, and two by Paolo Veronefe — in a room behind that called dello Sen do. Portrait of Henry III. king of France, by Tintoretto, in a little room leading to Sala de* Banchetti. Ceilings, in Magiflrato del Bizde and delle leg?:e, by Paolo Vero- nefe. The circumcifion — Chrift led to Calvary— and, appearing to the Magdalene; by Francefco Baffano. — Stanza degli Ecc. Capi delV Eccel/o Configlio de' Died. Virgin and child, by Leandro BafTano — Magiflrato della Peti- G g Chrifl 4£0 VENICE. S. MARK'S. The lower gallery, or portico, under the palace, is called the Broglid. In this the noble Venetians walk and converfe : it is only here, and at council, that they have opportunities of meeting; for they feldom Chriit appearing to Mary Magdalene the judgment of Solo- mon — and the baptifm of Chrifl.; by Andrea Vicentino. Magijtraio dcHa Bejlemia. Ecce Homo, by Albert Durer. — Stanza dcW Eccelfo Tribu?iale. dntlcollegio. Mercury and the Graces — Pallas driving away Mars; Bacchus, and Ariadne — the Cyclops; by Tintoretto. The ceiling, and in the corner on the left hand of the entrance, Europa, carried off by the bull ! Paolo Veronefe. The return of Jacob, by Jacopo Bafiano. Avogaria. Dead Chriit., Virgin and Saints; by Gian Bellino, 1472. The refurreclion, with angels, the women and five portraits ; by Tintoretto. Collegio, The Doge Mocenigo worfhipping Chrift, with faints and two portraits — The virgin under a canopy, with faints and the Doge Da Ponte Marriage of S. Catharine, with the Doge Donato, S. Mark, S. Francis, prudence and temperance Virgin, faints, and the Doge Andrea Gritti; all by Tinto- retto. Over the Ducal feat, the Doge Sebaftiano Veniero, general at the battle of 3. Giuilina againft the Turks in 157 1. He is on his knees before Chriil in a glory of angels : Near him are S. Giultina, Faith and Venice. On the fides are S. Se- baftian and S. Giuftina in chiarofcuro. The ceiling, &c. are alfo by Paolo Ver^etc. Venice venic£. s. mark's. 4 Arezzo 333 354* 397' 409, 414 Arqua Brefcia 474 Afcenfion at Venice 416 Brunetta 10 Affizi 126 C. Arl'i 40 Calais by Dijon to Geneva 3 Auglbourg 477 to Nice 20 B. Caleflb, what 288 Baccano 317 Camoccia 33* Baise 288, 296, 298 Campo Marone 4* Baldo mountain 474 Capri 3*i Bauli 299 Capua <•> 264, 315 $ergamo 475 Carrara 66 Bocchetta 42 Cafe nuove 125, 262 Bolca mountain 467 Caferta Bologna 95 Cafiinos, what 459 Churches 9^-105 Cartel Gandolfq 258 . — ■ Government 113 Cafliglione 33* Inftituto j 05 Catacombs at Naples and Manufactures 113 l(ome 172, I i Cattolics INDFX OF THE Cattolica 121 Florence, Bridges 335 Cenis, mount, paffage of it <; - Campanile 337 Cento 403 - Cathedral 335 Cefena 1 14 - Churches 340 — 362- Chambery - Environs 335, 386 Chartreux near Pavia 68 • Gallery 369 — 376 Chiandola *3 • Libraries 377 Chiufi 320 - S. Lorenzo 33$ Civita Caftellana 129 • Manufactures 385 Cob 1 entz 479 • Mufeum 376 Cocagna, what 284 . Palaces 377 — 3^3 Col du Tende *3 - Palazzo Pitti 355 Cologne 479 Vecchio 364 Como, lake of 82 • Population 33$ Confetti di Tivoli, what 261 • Produ&s 387 Coni H ■ Sculpture 367 Core 262 Territory 386 Corregio 9 1 Theatres 384 Cortona 33 s to Bologna 403 Cremona 84 Foligno 125 Coma 295 Fondi 263 E. Forli ll 5 Eurancan mountains. o 415 Frangy 3 Enhydri, what 466 Frefcati 257 F. G. Faenza 115 Gaeta 264 Faiola 261 Garda, lake of 473 Fano 120 Gavi 42 Ferrara 404 Geneva to Turin 3 - Ariofto's tomb ib. Genoa 43-6$ Finale 1 2 Albergo 48 Florence 334- -38? — Arfenal 49 Arno river 335 1 Churches 45 Baptiftery 33.7 ■ Climate 64 ,i Boboli gardens 363. ■ Darfena 44 368 — — Fortifications 43. G*noa>, NAMES OF PLACES, &C. tr€no Harbour 4-4. TT Lodefan H ■ Hofpital 48 Lodi ib. . Manners 63 Lorenzo delle Grotte 320 ■ i Palace of the Doge 49 Loretto 122 ~. Palaces of the No- Lucca bility 49- -62 Lucioli, what 220) . ■ ■ Population 62 Lyon to Antibes I I ■1 , ■ Porto Franco Ad. TT 3 «— — Squares and ftreets 43 T3 — Genoa 1 1 . Trade 64. - Turin . Villas 56- -62 M. m . ,., to Leghorn 6; Macerata to Milan 66 Manheim 478 Genfano Mantua 472 GralTe Marino 26 1 Grotta Ferrata 2$g Mafia 66 Guelfo caftle QO Mentz 47 3 H. Milan 69. -82 Herculaneum J j — — AmbroJian libra: y 7$ I, ••• Archbifhop-'s palace 74 Irnola Carnival '8* Infpruck 477 Cathedral 69 Italy, different ways lead- Churches 71 ing to it I - — — Environs 8r Itri J — — • Population 69 L. — — Public buildings 79 Lago di Garda 47* ■ Seminario 77 ■ ' Mae?iore 82 Theatre 86 Lannebourg cr j to Bologna La Faiola 261 Modena 91 Lariccia ib. Cathedral 92 La Somma ' Ducal Palace 9% Leghorn 401 — — — Theatre 94, Lerici 66 Mola di Gaeta 265 to Pifa ib. Monaco 12 Le Vene 126 Monte Caffino Limoni H Mont Cenis li z Monte- INDEX OF THE Montefiafcone 318 Naples, Lake of Avernus 2*94 Montmelian 3 • Libraries 282, Mofaics 164. ■ Lucrine Lake 296 Mufeums 24, 75, 106, 196, . Manners 286 201, 210, 244, 301, 376, Manufactures 313 397, 414 — ■ Mare morto 297 N. — Mercato del Sabbato Naples 264—313 296 . — Architecture 267, 275 Monte Barbaro 294 ■ Arco Felice 29^ Monte Caflino 314 • Aftruni 291 » Monte Nuovo 294 — Camoldoli 290 • Nero's baths 296 4 — Capodimonte 275-279 *— — — Nifida 299 . . Capri 312 ■ ■ ■ Paeftum 311 Capua 3 1 5 « Palaces 279 . Carnival 2 84 Pavement 26c, Caferta 311 - ■■ — Paufilipo 389 • Caftles 266 Pifciarelli 291 — Cento Camerelle 297 Pifcina mirabile 297 «~ Chiaja 265,^85,289 Police 28; • Churches 267 — 2S9 Pompeii 307 » - Circuit 265 - ■ Population 26^ — Confervatories 284 - Portici and the • ■ Cuma 2}5 Mufeum 301 Elyiian fields 296 — Prefepe 28 £ » * ■ Environs 288 Provifions 286 • ■ Fountains 265 - — 1 Puzzuoli 292; Grotta del cane 291 • Sibyl's cave 294 - Gulph of Baiai 296, Solfatara 291 2 r-g ■ Squares 26 £ Harbour 2C6 Stabia 311 ■ Herculaneum 305 — — Streets 26; ■ Hofpkals 282 ■ ■ Studii publici 283 King's Palace 275 Temple of Apollo 29^ » ! ■ La go d'Agnano 291 — Temples of Venus, — — « Lago dellaColuc- Sec. 296 cia 29S . — Theatres 282 Naples, IN A ivl £ 3 P T, AfFS. &G. Naples^ Tomb of Virgil 29© Pavia, Churches 67 • — — Vefuvius 299 — River ib. » Wards or Seggii 28; ■ ■ Univerfity ib. * — — to Rome 3H Paufilipo 289 Narni 129 Perugia 3*9 Nemi lake 2 59 ■ • * Churches 330 Nice H Lake 33^ Nice to Turin 13 Pefaro 119 Noli »3 Pefto 311 Novaleze 9 Piacenza *S Novara 83 Piedmont 39 Novi 4i ? Language 40 O. f ' ■ Manners ib. Oneglia 12 ■ 1 Natural produc- Orvieto 3i9 tions ' ib* Otricoli 129 ib„ Ottaggio 4i Pietra Mala P. Pio*nolp» what T Tfl Padua 409 Pipcrno 262 , 316 — Botanic garden 414 Pifa 39^ »-■ Churches 409 - -412 — Baptiftery 393 * Environs 4i5 Baths 400 ■ Petrarch's villa 409 — — Campanile 394 * Salone Campo Santo ib. ■ Univerfity ib. Churches 39$ — to Venice 4^5 Duomo 391 Psftum 311 ■ Mufeum 397 Palo 125 Univeriity 396 Parma 87 Piftoia 3^7 . Churches 88 Poirino 14 * Ducal palace 89 Pompeii 307 — — Population 87 Pont- Beau voiiin 2 Theatre 89 Pontine marfhes 262, 316 Pavia 66 Portici 301 m Cathedral 67 Porto Venere 66 . Chartreux 68 Prefepe, what 285 3 Puzzolana INDEX OF Tll£ Puzzolana 292 Rome, Colleges *44 Puzzuoli ib. — Columns H9 R. — Dogana di terra 160 Radicofani 320 Entrance 130 Ramaffer, explained 9 Forums ICO Ravenna 116 ■ Fountains 136 — Churches ib. « Frefcati 257 Tomb of Theo- Functions 24S doric 118 Gates *3« Recoaro 466 — Grotta Ferrata Regata at Venice 458 — Hills J 3* Reggio 90 ■ Libraries 244 Riccia 259 ■ Lottery 247 Rimini P5 — Manners 243 Riviera di Genoa *3 Manufactures 248 Rivoli 10 — Maufoleums «5* Rcmagna IT 5 Monte Cavallo 213 Rome 130- .261 ■ Mofaics 164 — Academy of S.Luke ! 188 ~ Ncmi lake 259 Air 2)9 — — . Obelifks Albano 258 — — Palaces — . Antiquities 141 ■ ■ '« Pantheon hi " ■ - Aqueducls • *37 — Population i 3 i — Arches H3 — Portico of Oclavia 160 Bafilicas 162, — — Prifons 179 ■ Baths 146 Provifions 248 Bridges r 3 a — S. Peter's church 16a Campo Vaccino 144 — Sepulchres J 5> Capitol m *34 • Carnival 24.5 Streets l Z& •j j j Caftel Gandolfb ■ Temples Churches 1 62 > r 73~ *m Theatres, ancient Cicerones 139 Circuit 130 Tiber river 1-8 Circufcs *47 . Tivoli 260 • Colifrcum — Troops 247 Rome, NAMES OF PLACES, &C. Z.\\J Ills- 2 t £illvtll& 204 Siena,Theatre 1 J T ■ Villas . TJniverlitv » i -—Villa Adrian! 260 Sintgaglia I2t ——Villi Fftpnfp ■ ■ ■• V Ilia -DUtlHC OVJlllllltl T 0 T 11 w tins 130 QUCUC.U> T ?A X i\J ,ji 1 — vvaius 1 40 Stabia 4 t r 3 1 1 . — \^ r mn pn z 4/ Stutward 7 T - / / - i — tn Flnr/>nr/» Suze I. ■ to Naples 261 T. AUHLd illUUIHdlli 407 TVnrlf* I l T r* 4*5 Carignano palace 3 c Said 474 — — Carnival 34 San Marino t in Caftello Reale ib. 1 3 ~ Churches 3? Sa vnna 1 2 < Citadel 24 Savoy 2 Corfo 34 Secchia rapita 94 Fortifications 24 Seravezza 66 — Gates 23 Sermoneta 262, 316 King's palace §erravaile 125 Military academy ib. Seftri 13, 66 « Moncalieri 37 Sezze 262 Pertengo palace 36 Siena 321 — Population 23 Churches 322 — Streets ib. .. .» ■ Palazzo publico 335 Superga * 36 ! 32 Territory 326 . . Theatre 4 Turin, IK Turin, Trade and Manu- factures ■ Valentino — Veneria Reale ~ Vignes de la Reine — — Univerfity to Genoa i to Milan V, Tyrol Valais Valcimarya Varefe Veletri Vene Venice ■ ■ . — Arfenal i u ' — Afcenfion — — Broglio — — . Bucentoro — Canals — — CafTmos . — Churches 418 — Confervatories — Gondolas Guidecca Iflands » Manufactories Palace of S. Mark de!x j &c." Venice, Palaces 43* 38 1 — Piazza and tower 37 of S.Mark 417,45$ 36. — 1 Population ib. ib. Regata ib, 24 — Rialto 416 40 S. Mark's church 432 S3 ' — Scuole 445 476 — Theatres > 459 Ventimiglia 12 20 Vercelli 83 125 Verona 468 82 Vefuvius mount 299 261 Vicenza 464 126 Vico, Lake of 318 416 Viterbo 318 460 Ulm 477 461 Umbria 126, 129 450 Volcanos 129, 132, 249, 460 259, £91,294, 298 — 311, 416 317—320, 415, 466, 7 459 Voltaggio 4I 44 c Volterra 327 457 u. 462 Urbino, Dutchy 120 416 W. ib. Worms 47 S 463 Z. 448 Zendado, what 1 13 THE END. s ?!