/ 
 
 
 (2^y 
 
 • A 
 
 
 
 , t) i^U 
 
 A' 
 
 ^yx^ 
 
 W> 4 /**^" 
 
 , /2 : ^ '/t>m>' 
 
 h <M c / A / ' > A 
 
 ' */Va a 
 
 ?l 
 
 z . -/t'i-'y - / ' 7 ^ 
 
 * r/ '- // 
 
 i-. 
 
 / 
 
 ?:. 
 
 - 
 
 
THE 
 
 EXPERIENCED 
 
 AMERICAN HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 OR 
 
 IDOttlCSSttC Cooutfp 
 
 FORMED ON 
 
 1 
 
 FOR IHE USE OF 
 
 PRIVATE FAMILIES. 
 
 r 
 
 HARTFORD: 
 
 PUBLISHED BY SILAS ANDRUS 
 
 1829 * 
 
 ♦ 4 
 
HIND QUARTER. 
 
 1. Sirloin. 
 
 2. Rump. 
 
 3. Edge bone. 
 
 4. Bullock. 
 
 5. Mouse Bullock 
 
 6. Veiny Piece. 
 
 7. Thick Flank. 
 
 8. Thin Flank. 
 
 9. Lt { g. 
 
 FORE QUARTER. 
 
 10. Fore Rib five ribs, 
 ill. Middle Rib, four ribs, 
 i 12. Chuck, three ribs. 
 
 13. Shoulder, or leg of Mutton 
 
 14. Brisket. [piece. 
 
 I 15. Clod. 
 
 I 16. Neck, or sticking piece. 
 
 | 17. Shin, 
 i 18. Chuck. 
 
 
 1. Leg. 
 
 2. Loin best end. 
 
 3. Loin chump end. 
 
 4. Neck best end. 
 
 5. Neck scrag end. 
 
 >6. Shoulder. 
 
 7. Breast. 
 
 A Chine is two Loins. 
 A saddle is two Necks. 
 
OBSERVATIONS 
 
 FOR THE USE OF 
 
 THE MISTRESS OF A FAMILY. 
 
 In every rank those deserve the greatest praise, 
 who best acquit themselves of the duties which their 
 station requires. Indeed, this line of conduct is not 
 a matter of choice but of necessity, if we would 
 maintain the dignity of our character as rational 
 beings. 
 
 In the variety of female acquirements, though do¬ 
 mestic occupations stand not so high in esteem as they 
 formerly did, yet when neglected they produce 
 much human misery. There was a time when ladies 
 knew nothing oeyond their own family concerns ; 
 but in the present day there are many who know 
 nothing about them. Each of these extremes should 
 be avoided : but is there no way to unite in the fe¬ 
 male character, cultivation of talents and habits of 
 usefulness ? Happily there are still great num¬ 
 bers in every situation, whose example proves that 
 this is possible. Instances may be found of ladies 
 in the higher walks of life, who condescend to ex¬ 
 amine the accounts of their house-steward ; and, 
 by overlooking and wisely directing the expenditure 
 of that part of their husbands’ income which falls 
 under their own inspection, avoid the inconveniences 
 of embarrassed circumstances. 
 
 The direction of a table is no inconsiderable branch 
 of a lady’s concern, as it involves judgment in ex¬ 
 it 
 
4 
 
 penditure, respectaoility of appearance, and the 
 comfort of her husband and those who partake their 
 hospitality. 
 
 If a lady has never been accustomed, while single, 
 to think of family management, let her not upon 
 that account fear that she cannot attain it ; 9he may 
 consult others who are more experienced, and ac¬ 
 quaint herself with the necessary quantities of the 
 several articles of family expenditure, in proportion 
 to the number it consists of, the proper prices to 
 pay, &c. &c. 
 
 A minute account of the annual income, and the 
 times of payment, should be taken in writing ; like¬ 
 wise an estimate of the supposed amount of each ar¬ 
 ticle of expense ; and those who are early accus¬ 
 tomed to calculations on domestic articles, will ac¬ 
 quire so accurate a knowledge of what their estab¬ 
 lishment requires, as will give them the happy me¬ 
 dium between prodigality and parsimony, without 
 acquiring the character of meanness. 
 
 Many families have owed their prosperity full as 
 much to the propriety of female management, as to 
 the knowledge and activity of the father. 
 
 The following hints may be useful as well as eco¬ 
 nomical : — 
 
 Every article should be kept in the place best suit¬ 
 ed to it, as much waste may be thereby avoided. 
 
 Vegetables will keep best on a stone floor, if the 
 air be excluded.—Meat in a cold dry place.—Sugar 
 and sweetmeats require a dry place ; so does salt. — 
 Candles, cold, but not damp. — Dried meats, hams, 
 &c. the same. All sorts of seeds for puddings, 
 saloop, rice, &c. should be close covered, to 
 preserve from insects; but that will not prevent 
 it, if long kept. 
 
o 
 
 "Bread is now so heavy an article of expense, that 
 all waste should be guarded against; and having 
 it cut in the room will tend much to prevent it.— 
 Since the scarcity in 1795 and 1800, that custom has 
 been much adopted. It should not be cut until a 
 day old. Earthen pans and covers keep it best. 
 
 Straw to lay apples on should be quite dry, to 
 prevent a musty taste. 
 
 Large pears should be tied up by the stalk. 
 
 Basil, savoury, or knotted marjorum, or thyme, 
 to be used when herbs are ordered ; but with dis¬ 
 cretion, as they are very pungent. 
 
 The best means to preserve blankets from moths 
 is to fold them and lay them under the feather-beds 
 that are in use ; and they should be shaken occa¬ 
 sionally. When soiled, they should be washed, not 
 scoured. 
 
 Soda, by softening the water, saves a great deal 
 of soap, It should be melted in a large jug of wa¬ 
 ter, some of which pour into the tubs and boiler ; 
 and when the lather becomes weak, add more. The 
 new improvement in soft soap is, if properly used, u 
 saving of near half in quantity. 
 
 Many good laundresses advise soaping linen in 
 warm water the night previous to washing, as facili¬ 
 tating the operation with less friction. 
 
 Soap should be cut with a wire or twine, in pie¬ 
 ces that will make a long square when first brought 
 in, and kept out of the air two or three weeks ; for 
 if it dry quick it will crack, and when wet, break. 
 Put it on a shelf, leaving a space between, and let 
 it grow hard gradually. Thus, it will save a full 
 third in the consumption. 
 
 Some of the lemons and oranges used for juice 
 should be pared first to preserve the peel dry •. 
 
 1 * 
 
6 
 
 some should be halved, and when squeezed, the 
 pulp cut out, and the outside dried for grating. If 
 for boiling in any liquid, the first way is best. 
 When these fruits are cheap, a proper quantity 
 should be bought and prepared as above directed, 
 especially by those who live in the country, where 
 they cannot always be had ; and they are perpetu¬ 
 ally wanted in cookery. 
 
 When whites of eggs are used for jelly, or other 
 purposes, contrive to have pudding, custard, &,c. to 
 employ the yolks also. Should you not want them 
 for several hours, beat them up with a little water, 
 and put them in a cool place, or they will be hard¬ 
 ened and useless. It is a mistake of old, to think 
 that the whites made cakes and puddings heavy ; on 
 the contrary, if beaten long and separately, they 
 contribute greatly to give lightness, are an advan¬ 
 tage to paste, and make a pretty dish beaten with 
 fruit, to set in cream, &c. 
 
 If copper utensils be used in the kitchen, the cook 
 should be charged to be very careful not to let the 
 tin be rubbed off, and to have them fresh done when 
 the least defect appears, and never to put by any 
 soup, gravy, &c. in them, or any metal utensil; stone 
 and earthen vessels should be provided for those 
 purposes, as likewise plenty of common dishes, that 
 the table-set may not be used to put by cold meat. 
 
 Tin vessels, if kept damp, soon rust, which causes 
 holes. Fenders, and tin linings of flower-pots, &c. 
 should be painted every year or two. 
 
 Vegetables soon sour, and corrode metals and 
 glazed red ware, by which a strong poison is pro¬ 
 duced. Some years ago the death of several gen¬ 
 tlemen was occasioned at Salt-hill, by the cook send- 
 
7 
 
 ing a ragout to the table, which she had kept from 
 the preceding day in a copper vessel badly tinned. 
 
 Vinegar, by its acidity, does the same, the glazing 
 being of lead or arsenic. 
 
 The best way of scalding fruits, or boiling vinegar, 
 is in a stone jar on a hot iron hearth : or by putting 
 the vessel into a saucepan of water, called a water- 
 bath. 
 
 If chocolate, coffee, jelly, gruel, bark, &lc. be suf¬ 
 fered to boil over, the strength is lost. 
 
 In the following and indeed all other receipts, 
 though the quantities may be as accurately directed 
 as possible, yet much must be left to the discretion 
 of the person w ho uses them. The different tastes 
 of people requires more or less of the flavour of 
 spices, salt, garlic, butter &c. which can never be 
 ordered by general rules ; and if the cook has not 
 a good taste, and attention to that of her employers, 
 nc-t all the ingredients which nature and art can fur¬ 
 nish, will give exquisite flavour to her dishes. The 
 proper articles should be at hand, and she must pro¬ 
 portion them until the true zest be obtained, and a 
 variety of flavour be given to the different dishes 
 served at the same time. 
 
 Those who require maigre dishes will find abun¬ 
 dance in this little work ; and where they are not 
 strictly so, by suet or bacon being directed into the 
 stuffings, the cook must use butter instead; and where 
 meat gravies (or stock, as they are called) are or¬ 
 dered, those made of fish must be adopted. 
 
 DIRECTIONS FOR CARVING. 
 
 The carving-knife for a lady should be light, and 
 of a middling size and a fine edge. Strength is less 
 
8 
 
 required than address, in the manner of using it: 
 and to facilitate this the cook should give orders to 
 the butcher to divide the joints of the bones of all 
 carcass-joints of mutton, lamb, and veal, (such as 
 neck, breast, and loin ;) which may then be easily 
 cut into thin sclices attached to the adjoining bones. 
 If the whole of the meat belonging to each bone 
 should be too thick, a small slice may be taken off 
 between every two bones. 
 
 The more fleshy joints (as fillet of veal, leg or 
 saddle of mutton, and beef.) are to be helped in thin 
 slices, neatly cut and smooth ; observing to let the 
 knife pass down to the bone in the mutton and beef 
 joints. 
 
 The dish should not be too far off the carver; 
 as it gives an awkward appearance, and makes the 
 task more difficult. Attention is to be paid to help 
 every one to a part of such articles as are consi¬ 
 dered the best. 
 
 In helping fish take care not to break the flakes ; 
 which in cod and very fresh salmon are large and 
 contribute much to the beauty of its appearance. A 
 fish knife, not being sharp, divides it best on this 
 account. Help a part of the roe, milt, or liver, to 
 each person. The heads of carp, part of those of 
 cod and salmon, sounds of cod, and fins of turbot, 
 are likewise esteemed niceties, and are to be attend¬ 
 ed to accordingly. 
 
 In cutting up any wild-fowl, duck, goose, or tur¬ 
 key, for a large party, if you cut the slices down 
 from pinion to pinion, without making wings, ther© 
 will be more prime pieces. 
 
EXPERIENCED 
 
 AMERICAN HOUSEKEEPER. 
 
 FISH. 
 
 To choose Fish. 
 
 Rock Fish. —A remarkably fine, firm and well fla¬ 
 voured fish, should be chosen by the redness of the 
 gills and a full bright eye ; if the eye is sunken and 
 the gills pale, they have been too long out of the 
 water ; their fineness depends on their being cook¬ 
 ed immediately after they are killed ; the same fish 
 in New-York, and to the eastward of it, is known 
 by the name of Streaked-Bass. 
 
 Sheep's Head. —This fish is generally esteemed 
 one of the finest brought to our markets. It should 
 be firm and thick, and the eyes bright. They are 
 in season during the whole summer. 
 
 Sea Bass and Black Fish are fine solid fish, and 
 generally to be had alive in the Philadelphia market 
 and to the eastward, it is seldom seen in the southern 
 market. 
 
 Salmon. —If new, the flesh is of a fine red, (the 
 gills particularly,) the scales bright, and the 
 whole fish stiff. When just killed, there is a white¬ 
 ness between the flakes which gives a great firm- 
 
10 
 
 ness ; by keeping, this melts down, and the fish is 
 more rich. 
 
 Cod.- —The gills should be very red, the fish 
 should be very thick at the neck, the flesh white 
 and firm, and the eyes fresh. When flabby they 
 are not good. They are in season from the be¬ 
 ginning of December till the end of April. 
 
 Shad. —If good, they are very white and thick, 
 their gills red and the eyes bright ; the \/hole 
 fish must be stiff and firm. Season, April and May. 
 
 Herrings. — If good, their gills are of a fine red 
 and the eyes bright ; as is likewise the whole fish, 
 which must be stiff and firm. 
 
 Soles. — If good, they are thick, and the belly is of 
 a cream-colour ; if this is of a bluish cast and flabby, 
 they are not fresh. They are in the market almost 
 the whole year, but are in the highest perfection 
 about mid-summer. 
 
 Whitings. —The firmness of the body and fins, is 
 to be looked to, as in herrings ; their high season is 
 during the first three months of the year, but they 
 may be had a great part of it. 
 
 Mackerel. —Choose as whitings. Their season is 
 May, June, and July. They are so tender a fish 
 that they carry and keep worse than any other. 
 
 Pike. — For freshness observe the above marks. 
 The best are taken in rivers ; they are very dry 
 fish, and are much indebted to stuffing and sauce. 
 
 Carp live some time out of water, and may there¬ 
 fore get wasted ; it is best to kill them as soon as 
 caught, to prevent this. The same signs of freshness 
 attend them as other fish. 
 
 Trout. — They are a fine-flavoured fresh-water 
 fish, and should be killed and dressed as soon as 
 caught.— When they are to be bought, examine 
 
11 
 
 whether the gills are red and hard to open, the 
 eyes bright, and the body stiff. The season is July, 
 August and September. 
 
 Perch. —Take the general rules given to distin¬ 
 guish the freshness of other fish. 
 
 Mullets .—The sea are preferred to the river mul¬ 
 lets, and the red to the gray. They thould be very 
 firm.—Their season is August. 
 
 Gudgeons .—They are chosen by the same rules 
 as other fish. They are taken in running streams ; 
 come in about midsummer, and are to be had for five 
 or six months. 
 
 Eels .—There is a greater difference in the good¬ 
 ness of eels than of any other fish. The true silver- 
 eel (so called from the bright colour of the belly,) 
 is caught in all our rivers ; those taken in great 
 floods are generally good, but in ponds they have 
 usually a strong rank flavour. Except the middle 
 of summer, they are always in season. 
 
 Flounders .—They should be thick, firm, and have 
 their eyes bright. They very soon become flabby 
 and bad. They are in season from January to 
 March, and from July to September. 
 
 Lobsters . — If they have not been long taken, the 
 claws will have a strong motion when you put your 
 finger on the eyes and press them. The heaviest 
 are the best, and it is preferable to boil them at 
 home. When you buy them ready-boiled, try 
 whether their tails are stiff, and pull them up with a 
 spring, otherwise that part will be flaDby. The 
 cock-lobster is known by the narrow back part of 
 his tail; and the uppermost fins within it are stiff and 
 hard ; but those of the hen are soft, and the tail broad¬ 
 er. The male, though generally smaller, has the 
 
12 
 
 highest flavour, the flesh is firmer, and the colour 
 when boiled is a deeper red. 
 
 Crabs .—The heaviest are best, and those of a 
 middling size are sweetest. If light they are watery, 
 when in perfection thejoints of the legs are stiff, and 
 the body has a very agreeable smell. The eyes 
 look dead and loose when stale. 
 
 Prawns and Shrimps . — When fresh they have a 
 sweet flavour, are firm and stiff, and the colour is 
 bright.—Shrimps are of the prawn kind, and may be 
 judged by the same rules. 
 
 Oi/sters . — They are taken in every section of the 
 Union, on the seaboard; those most esteemed are 
 taken in the Chesapeake Bay, on York Bank, in the 
 Bay of New York, and when alive and strong, the 
 shell is close. — They should be eaten as soon as 
 as opened, otherwise they lose their flavour. 
 In choosing, caFe should be taken to get them with 
 a thin sharp shell, as this is a mark of theii being 
 young ; and when open, the oysters should have a 
 plump solid appearance ; the largest are by no 
 means the best. 
 
 Besides the above enumerated fish, our waters 
 afford an immense quantity, may of which are ex¬ 
 tremely delicate, particularly as pan fish ; but as 
 the directions already given may be applied to them 
 it is deemed unnecessary to go more into detail. 
 
 Terrapins .— There are several species ; those 
 most preferred are taken in the Chesapeake Bay, 
 at the mouths of the Potomac, Chester, and other 
 rivers.— Those that are full and heavy for the size 
 are the best ; those with a smooth shell are old. 
 
 Turtle .—There are several species, but the green 
 is in the highest estimation for the table, and is gen¬ 
 erally brought to us from the West India islands* 
 
I Q 
 
 O 
 
 They weigh from eighty to two hundred pounds; 
 when an opportunity of choice offers, those which 
 are heaviest in proportion to their bulk, are to he 
 preferred ; and the general liveliness of the animal 
 is also to be attended to. 
 
 To boil Salmon. 
 
 Clean it carefully, boil it gently, and take it out 
 of the water as soon as done. Let the water be 
 warm if the fish be split. If underdone, it is very 
 unwholesome.—Shrimp or anchovy sauce. 
 
 To broil Salmon. 
 
 Cut slices an inch thick, and season with pepper 
 and salt; lay each slice in half a sheet of white pa¬ 
 per, well buttered, twist the ends of the paper, and 
 broil the slices over a slow fire six or eight minutes. 
 Serve in the paper with anchovy sauce. 
 
 An excellent dish of dried Salmon. 
 
 Pull some into flakes ; have ready some eggs 
 boiled hard and chopped large ; put both into half a 
 pint of thin cream, and two or three ounces of but¬ 
 ter rubbed with a tea-spoonful of flour ; skim it and 
 stir till boiling hot: make a wall of mashed potatoes 
 round the inner edge of a dish, and pour the above 
 into it. 
 
 Salmon collared. 
 
 Split such a part of the fish as may be sufficient 
 to make a handsome roll, wash and wipe it, and, 
 having mixed salt, white pepper, pounded mace, 
 and Jamaica pepper, in quantity to season it very 
 high, rub it inside and out, well. Then roll it tight, 
 and bandage it, put as much water and one third 
 vinegar as will cover it, with bay-leaves, salt, and 
 both sorts of pepper. Cover close, and simmer till 
 
 O 
 
14 
 
 done enough. Drain and boil quick the liquor, and 
 put on when cold. Serve with fennel. It is an 
 elegant dish, and extremely good. 
 
 To dress Halibut. 
 
 Having cut the Halibut in thm slices, fry them 
 with butter, afterwards boil the bones of the fish 
 with four onions, some celery and thyme, for half an 
 hour, in a little water. Then strain it, and stew 
 the fish for half an hour in a little water, with the 
 addition of some butter browned. Season with 
 white pepper, a spoonful of catsup, salt, and mace, 
 a spoonful of lemon juice, and a little shred lemon 
 neel. Add flour and fresh butter for thicking it. 
 
 Cod. 
 
 Some people boil the cod whole; but a large 
 head and shoulders contain all the fish that is pro¬ 
 per to help the thinner parts being overdone and 
 tasteless before the thick are ready. But the whole 
 fish may be purchased at times more reasonably ; 
 and the lower half, if sprinkled and hung up, will be 
 in high perfection one or two days. Or it may be 
 made salter, and served with egg-sauce, potatoes., 
 and parsnips. 
 
 Cod’s Head and Shoulders. 
 
 Tie it up, and put it on the fire in cold water 
 which will completely cover it; throw a handful of 
 salt into it. Great care should be taken to serve it 
 without the smallest speck of black or scum. Gar¬ 
 nish with a large quantity of double parsley, lemon, 
 horse-radish, and the milt, roe, and liver, and fried 
 smelts if approved. Serve with plenty of Oyster 
 or Shrimp sauce, and anchovy and butter. 
 
 Crimp Cod 
 
 Boil, broil, or fry. 
 
Cod sounds boiled. 
 
 Soak them in warm water half an hour, then 
 scrape and clean ; and if to be dressed white, boil 
 them in milk and water ; when fender, serve them 
 in a napkin, with egg sauce. The salt must not be 
 much soaked out, unless for fricassee. 
 
 Cod sounds to look like small chickens. 
 
 A good maigre-day dish. Wash three large 
 sounds nicely, and boil them in milk and water, but 
 not too tender; when cold, put a forcemeat of 
 chopped oysters, crumbs of bread, a bit of butter, 
 nutmeg, pepper, salt, and the yolks of two eggs ; 
 spread it thin over the sounds, and roll up each in 
 the form of a chi-ken, skew-ering it ; then lard them 
 as you would chickens, dust a little flour over, and 
 roast them in a tin oven slowly. When done 
 en 'nigh, pour over them a fine oyster sauce. Serve 
 lot side or corner dish. 
 
 To broil Cod sounds. 
 
 Scald in hot water, rub well with salt, pull off the 
 dirty skin, and put them to simmer till tender ; lake 
 them out, flour, and broil. While this is doing, 
 season a little brown gravy with pepper, salt, a tea¬ 
 spoonful of soy, and a little mustard ; give it a boil 
 with a bit of flour and butter, and pour it over the 
 sounds. , 
 
 Cod sounds ragout. 
 
 Prepare as above ; then stew them in white gravy 
 seasoned, cream, butter, and a little bit of flour ad¬ 
 ded before you serve, gently boiling up. A bit ot 
 lemon peel, nutmeg, and the least pounded mace, 
 should give the flavour. 
 
 To dress salt Cod. 
 
 Soak and clean the piece you mean to dress, then 
 
16 
 
 lay it all night in water, with a glass of vinegar. Boil 
 it enough, then break it into flakes on the dish ; pour 
 over it parsneps boiled, beaten in a mortar, and then 
 boil up with cream and a large piece of butter rub¬ 
 bed with a bit of dour. It may be served as above 
 with egg-sauce instead of the parsnep, and the root 
 sent up whole ; or the fish may be boiled and sent 
 up without flaking, and saqces as above. 
 
 To dress f resh Sturgeon. 
 
 Cut slices, rub egg over them, then sprinkle wi h 
 crumbs of bread, parsley, pepper, salt; fold them 
 in paper, and broil gently. Sauce—butter, ancho¬ 
 vy, soy. 
 
 To roast Sturgeon. 
 
 Put it on a lark-spit, then tie it on a large spit; 
 baste it constantly with butter, and serve with a 
 good gravy, an anchovy, a squeeze of Seville orange 
 or lemon, and a glass of sherry. 
 
 Perch. 
 
 Put them into cold water, boil them carefully, 
 and serve with melted butter and soy. Perch are 
 a most delicate fish. They may be either fried or 
 stewed, but in stewing they do not preserve so good 
 a fiavour. 
 
 To fry Trout 
 
 Scale, gut, and well wash ; then dry them, and 
 lay them separately on a board before the fire, after 
 dusting some flour over them. Fry them of a fine 
 colour with fresh dripping ; serve with crimp pars¬ 
 ley, and plain butter.—Perch may be done the same 
 way. 
 
 Trout a-la-Genevoise. 
 
 Clean the fish very well ; put it into your stew- 
 pan, adding half Champagne, and half Mosselle, or 
 
17 
 
 Rhenish, or sherry wine. Season it with pepper, 
 salt, and onion, a few cloves stuck in it, and a small 
 bunch of parsley and thyme; put it in a crust of 
 French bread ; set it on a quick fire. When the 
 fish is done, take the bread out, bruise it, and then 
 thicken the sauce ; add flour and a little butter, and 
 let it boil up. See that your sauce is of a proper 
 thickness. Lay your fish on the dish, and pour the 
 sauce over it.— Serve it with sliced lemon and fried 
 bread. 
 
 Mackerel. 
 
 Boil, and serve with butter and fennel. 
 
 lo broil them, split, and sprinkle with herbs, 
 pepper, and salt ; or stutf with the same, crumbs 
 and chopped fennel. 
 
 To bake Pike. 
 
 Scale it, and open as near the throat as vou can, 
 then stuff it with the following : — grated bread' 
 herbs, anchovies, oysters, suet, salt, pepper, mace, 
 half a pint of cream, four yolks of eggs ; mix all 
 over the fire till it thickens, then put it into the fish, 
 and sew it up, butter should be put over it in little 
 bits, bake it. Serve sauce of gravy, butter, and 
 anchovy. Note— if, in helping a pike, the back and 
 belly are slit up, and each slice .gently drawn down¬ 
 wards, there will be fewer bones given. 
 
 To dry Haddock. 
 
 Choose them of two or three pounds weight, take 
 out the gills, eyes, and entrails, and remove the 
 blood from the back-bone. Wipe them dry, and 
 put some salt into the bodies and eyes. Lay them 
 on a board for a night, then hang them up in a dry 
 place, and after three or four days they will be fit 
 to eat; skin and rub them with egg*, and strew 
 
 2 * 
 
18 
 
 crumbs over them. Lay them before the fire, and 
 baste with butter until brown enough. Serve with 
 egg sauce. Whitings, if large, are excellent this 
 way ; and it will prove an accommodation in the 
 country, where there is no regular supply of fish 
 Stuffing for Pike, Haddock , and small Cod. 
 
 Take equal parts of fat bacon, beef-suet and fresh 
 butter, some parsley, thyme, and savoury ; a little 
 onion, and a few leaves of scented marjorum shred 
 fine ; an anchovy or two ; a little salt and nutmeg, 
 and some pepper. 
 
 To fry Smelts. 
 
 They should not be washed more than is necessa¬ 
 ry to clean them. Dry them in a cloth, then lightly 
 flour them, but shake it off. Dip them into plenty 
 of egg, then into bread crumbs grated fine, and 
 plunge them into a good pan of boiling lard ; let them 
 continue gently boiling, and a few minutes will make 
 them a bright yellow brown. Take care not to take 
 off the light roughness of the crumbs, or their beau¬ 
 ty will be lost. 
 
 Spitchcock Eels. 
 
 Take one or two large eels, leave the skm on, 
 cut them into pieces of three inches long, opon them 
 on the belly-side, and clean them nicely ; wipe 
 them dry, and then wet. them with beaten egg, and 
 strew over on both sides chopped parsley, pepper, 
 salt, a very little sage, and a bit of mace pounded 
 fine and mixed with the seasoning. Rub the grid¬ 
 iron with a bit of suet, and broil the fish of a fine 
 colour. Serve with anchovy and butter for sauce 
 
 Fried Eels. 
 
 If small, they should be curled round and fried, 
 being first dipped into egg and crumbs of bread 
 
19 
 
 Boiled Eels. 
 
 The small ones are best—do them in a small 
 quantity of water, with a good deal of parsley, 
 which should be served up with them and the li¬ 
 quor. Serve chopped parsley and butter for sauce. 
 
 Eel broth , very nourishing for the sick. 
 
 Do as above ; but stew two hours, and add an 
 onion and peppercorns—salt to taste. 
 
 Collared Eel. 
 
 Bone a large eel, but do not skin it; mix pepper, 
 salt, mace, alspice, and a clove or two, in the finest 
 powder, and rub over the whole inside ; roll it tight, 
 and bind with a coarse tape. Boil in salt and water 
 till enough, then add vinegar, and when cold keep 
 the collar in pickle. Serve it either whole or in 
 slices. Chopped sage, parsley and a little thyme, 
 knotted marjorum, and savoury, mixed with the 
 spices, greatly improve the taste. 
 
 Flounders. 
 
 Let them be rubbed with salt inside and out, and 
 lie two hours to give them some firmness. Dip 
 them into egg, cover with crumbs, and fry them. 
 
 To <lress Red Herrings. 
 
 Choose lose that are large md moist, cut them 
 open and ur some boiling small beer over them 
 to soak hal n hour ; drain them dry, and make 
 them just hot through before the fire, then rub 
 some cold butter over them and serve. Egg-sauce, 
 or buttered eggs, and mashed potatoes, should be 
 sent up with them. 
 
 Baked Herrings. 
 
 Wash and drain without wiping them ; season 
 with alspice in fine powder, salt, and a few whole 
 doves ; lay them in a pan with plenty of black pep- 
 
20 
 
 per, an onion, and a few bay leaves. Add half vine¬ 
 gar and half small beer, enough to cover them. 
 Put paper over the pan, and bake in a slow oven. 
 If you like, throw saltpetre over them the night be¬ 
 fore, to make them look red. Gut, but do not 
 open them. 
 
 Fried Herrings. 
 
 Serve them of a light brown, with onions sliced 
 and fried. 
 
 Broiled Herrings. 
 
 Flour them first, and do of a good colour ; plain 
 butter for sauce. 
 
 To pot Lobsters. 
 
 Half-boil them, pick out the meat, cut it into 
 small bits, season with mace, white pepper, nutmeg, 
 and salt, press close into a pot, and cover with but¬ 
 ter ; bake half an hour ; put the spawn in. When 
 cold take the lobster out, and put it into the pots 
 with a little of the butter. Beat the other butter in 
 a mortar with some of the spawn ; then mix that 
 coloured butter with as much as will be sufficient to 
 cover the pots, and strain it. Cayenne may be 
 added, if approved. 
 
 Stewed Lobster , a very high relish. 
 
 Pick the lobster, put the berries into a dish that 
 has a lamp, and rub them down with a bit of butter, 
 two spoonfuls of any sort of gravy, one of soy, or 
 walnut-catsup, a little salt and Cayenne, and a 
 spoonful of port; stew the lobster cut into bits with 
 the gravy as above. 
 
 Buttered Lobsters. 
 
 Pick the meat out, cut it, , and warm with a little 
 weak brown gravy, nutmeg, salt, pepper, and butter, 
 with a little flour. If done white, a little white 
 gravy and cream. 
 
21 
 
 To roast Lobsters. 
 
 When you have half-boiled the lobster take it out 
 of the water, and while hot, rub it with butter and 
 lay it before the fire. Continue basting it with but¬ 
 ter till it has a fine froth. 
 
 Currie for Lobsters or Prawns. 
 
 Take them from the shells, and lay into a pan, 
 with a small piece of mace, three or four spoonfuls 
 of veal gravy, and four of cream ; rub smooth one 
 or two tea-spoonfuls of currie-powder, a tea-spoon¬ 
 ful of flour, and an ounce of butter; simmer an 
 hour ; squeeze half a lemon in, and add salt. 
 
 Prawns and Cray-fish in jelly, a beautiful dish. 
 
 Make a savoury fish-jelly, and put some into the 
 bottom of a deep small dish ; when cold lay the 
 cray-fish with their back downwards, and pour more 
 jelly over them. Turn out when cold. 
 
 To butter Prawns or Shrimps. 
 
 Take them out of the shells ; and warm them 
 with a little good gravy, a bit of butter and flour, a 
 scrape of nutmeg, salt, and pepper ; simmer a min¬ 
 ute or two, and serve with sippets ; or with a cream 
 sauce, instead of brown. 
 
 Hot Crab. 
 
 Pick the meat out of a crab, clean the shell from 
 the head, then put the meat with a little nutmeg, 
 salt, pepper a bit of butter, crumbs of bread, and 
 three spoonfuls of vinegar, into the shell again, and 
 set it before fire. You may brown it with a sala¬ 
 mander. —Dry toast should be served to eat it upon. 
 
 Dressed Crab , cold. 
 
 Empty the shell, and mix the flesh with oil, vine¬ 
 gar, salt, and a little white pepper and Cayenne : 
 
22 
 
 then put the mixture into the large shell, and serve. 
 Very little oil is necessary. 
 
 To feed Oysters. 
 
 Put them into water, and wash them with a birch 
 besom till quite clean ; then lay them bottom down¬ 
 wards into a pan, sprinkle with flour or oatmeal and 
 salt, and cover with water. Do the same every 
 day, and they will fatten. The water should be 
 pretty salt. 
 
 To stew Oysters. 
 
 Open and separate the liquor from them, then 
 wash them from the grit ; strain the liquor, and put 
 with the oysters a bit of mace and the lemom - peel, 
 and a few white peppers. Simmer them very 
 gently, and put some cream, and a little flour and 
 batter. Serve with sippets. 
 
 Boiled Oysters 
 
 Eat well. Let the shell be nicely cleaned first; 
 and serve in them, to eat with cold butter. 
 
 To scallop Oysters. 
 
 Put them with crumbs of bread, pepper, salt, 
 nutmeg and a bit of butter, into scallop-shells or 
 saucers, and bake before the fire in a Dutch oven. 
 
 Fried Oysters , to garnish boiled fish. 
 
 Make a batter of flour, milk, and eggs, season it a 
 very little, dip the oysters into it, and try them a 
 fine yellow brown. A little nutmeg should be put 
 into the seasoning, and a few crumbs of bread into 
 the flour. 
 
 Oyster Loaves. 
 
 Open them, and save the liquor ; wash them in 
 it; then strain it through a sieve, and put a little of 
 it into a tosser, with a bit of butter and flour, white 
 pepper, a scrape of nutmeg, and a little crearn. 
 
23 - 
 
 Stew them, and cut in dice ; put into rolls sold for 
 the purpose. 
 
 MEATS. 
 
 To choose Meats. 
 
 Venison. —If the fat be clear, bright, and thick, 
 and the cleft part smooth and close, it is young ; but 
 if the cleft is wide and tough, it is old. 
 
 Beef. —if the flesh of ox-beef is young, it will 
 have a fine smooth open grain, be of good red, and 
 feel tender. The fat should look white rather than 
 yellow ; for when that is of a deep colour, the meat 
 is seldom good : beef fed by oil cakes is in general 
 so, and the flesh is flabby. 
 
 Veal. —The flesh of a bull calf is firmest, but not 
 so white. The fillet of the cow-calf is generally 
 preferred for the udder. The whitest is the most 
 juicy, having been made so by frequent bleeding 
 and having had whiting to lick. 
 
 Mutton .■—Choose this by the fineness of its grain, 
 good colour, and firm white fat. 
 
 Lamb. —Observe the neck of a fore quarter ; if 
 the vein is bluish, it is fresh ; if it has a green or 
 yellow cast, it is stale. 
 
 Pork —Pinch the lean, and if young it will break. 
 If the rind is tough, thick, and cannot easily be im¬ 
 pressed by the finger it is old. A thin rind ig a 
 merit in all pork. When fresh, the flesh will be 
 smooth and cool ; if clammy it is tainted. 
 
 Bacon .— If the rind is thin, the fat firm, and of a 
 red tinge, the lean tender, of a good colour and ad¬ 
 hering to the bone, you may conclude it good, and 
 not old. 
 
 Hams .— Stick a sharp knife under the bone : if 
 
24 
 
 it comes out with a pleasant smell, the ham is good ; 
 but if the knife is daubed and has a bad scent, do 
 not buy it. 
 
 Put the meat into cold water, and flour it well 
 first. Meat boiled quick will be hard ; but care 
 must be taken that in boiling slow it does not stop, 
 or the meat will be underdone. 
 
 If the steam is kept in, the water will not lessen 
 much ; therefore when you wish it to boil away, 
 take off the cover of the soup-pot. 
 
 Vegetables should not be dressed with the meat, 
 except carrots or parsnips with boiled beef. 
 
 Weigh the meat ; and allow for all solid joints a 
 quarter of an hour for every pound, and some min¬ 
 utes (from ten to twenty) over, according as the 
 family like it done. 
 
 A ham of twenty pounds will take four hours and 
 a half, and others in proportion. 
 
 A tongue, if dry, takes four hours slow boiling, 
 after soaking; a tongue out of pickle, from two 
 hours and a half to three hours, or more if very 
 large ; it must be judged by feeling whether it is 
 very tender. 
 
 A leg of pork, or lamb, takes the allowance of 
 twenty minutes, above a quarter of an hour to a 
 pound. 
 
 In roasting beef of ten pounds will take above 
 two hours and a half; twenty pounds will take 
 three hours and three quarters 
 
 A neck of mutton will take an hour and a half, 
 if kept a proper distance. A chine of pork, two 
 hours. 
 
 The meat should be put at a good distance from 
 the fire, and brought gradually nearer when the 
 inner part becomes hot, which will prevent its being 
 
25 
 
 scorched while yet raw. Meat should be much 
 basted ; and when nearly done, floured to make it 
 look frothed. 
 
 Veal and mutton should have a little paper put 
 over the fat to preserve it. If not fat enough to 
 allow for basting, a little good dripping answers as 
 well as butter. 
 
 In roasting meat it is a very good way to put a 
 little salt and water into the dripping-pan, and baste 
 for a little while with this, before using its own fat 
 or dripping. When dry, dust it with flour, and 
 baste as usual. 
 
 Salting meat before it is put to roast draws out 
 the gravy ; it should only be sprinkled when almost 
 done. 
 
 Time, distance, basting often, and a clear fire of 
 a proper size for what is required, are the first 
 articles of a good cook’s attention in roasting. 
 
 To dress Venison . 
 
 A haunch of buck will take three hours and a 
 half, or three quarters, roasting: doe, only *hree 
 hours and a quarter. Venison should be rather 
 under than over done. 
 
 Spread a sheet of white paper with butter, and 
 put it over the fat, first sprinkle it with a little salt; 
 then lay a coarse paste on strong paper, and cover 
 the haunch ; tie it with fine packthread, and set it 
 at a distance from the fire, which must be a good 
 one. Baste it often : ten minutes before serving 
 take off the paste, draw the meat nearer the fire, 
 and baste it with butter and a good deal of flour, to 
 make it froth up well. 
 
 Gravy for it should be put into a boat, and not 
 into the dish (unless there is none in the venison,) 
 and made thus : Cut off the fat from two or three 
 
 3 
 
26 
 
 pounds of loin of old mutton, and set in steaks on a 
 gridiron for a few minutes just to brown one side ; 
 put them into a saucepan with a quart of water, 
 cover quite close for an hour, and simmer it gently ; 
 then uncover it, and stew till the gravy is reduced to 
 a pint. Season with salt only. Currant-jelly sauce 
 must be served in a boat. 
 
 Formerly pap-sauce was eaten with venison: 
 w'hich as some still like it, it may be necessary to 
 direct. Grate white bread, and boil it with port 
 wine, water and a large stick of cinnamon, when 
 quite smooth take out the cinnamon, and add 
 sugar. Claret may be used for it. 
 
 Ma!<e the jelly-sauce thus. Beat some currant- 
 jelly and a spoonful or two of port wine, and set it 
 over the fire till melted. Where jelly runs short 
 put more wine and a few lumps of sugar, to the jelly, 
 and melt as above. Serve with French beans. 
 
 Haunch , Neck, and Shoidder of Venison. 
 
 Roast with paste as above, and the same sauce. 
 
 To stezii a Shoulder of Mutton. 
 
 Let the meat hang till you judge proper to dress 
 it, then take out the bone, beat the meat with a rol¬ 
 ling-pin, lay some slices of mutton fat, that have 
 lain a few hours in a little port wine, among it, sprin¬ 
 kle a little pepper and alspice over it in fine pow¬ 
 der, roll it up tight, and tie it. Set in a stew-pan 
 that will only just hold it, with some mutton or beef 
 gravy not strong, half a pint of port wine, and some 
 pepper and alspice. Simmer it close covered, and 
 as slow as you can, for three or four hours. When 
 quite tender, take off the tape, set the meat on a 
 dish, and strain the gravy over it. Serve with cur¬ 
 rant-jelly sauce. 
 
27 
 
 This is the best way to dress this joint, umess it 
 is very fat, and then it should be roasted. The 
 bone should be stewed with it. 
 
 Breast of Venison . 
 
 Do it as the shoulder, or make it into a small 
 pastry. 
 
 Hashjd Venison 
 
 Should be warmed with its own gravy, or some 
 without seasoning, as before ; and only warmed 
 through, not boiled. If there is no fat left, cut 
 some slices of mutton fat, set it on the tire with a 
 little port wine and sugar, simmer till dry ; then 
 put to the hash, and it will eat as well as the fat of 
 the venison. 
 
 For Venison Pastry, look under the head Pastry ; 
 as likewise an excellent imitation. 
 
 Beef a-la-mode. 
 
 Choose a piece of thick flank of a fine heifer or 
 ox—cut into long slices some fat bacon, but quite 
 free from yellow ; let each bit be near an inch thick ; 
 dip them into vinegar, and then into a seasoning 
 ready prepared, of salt, black pepper, aispice, and 
 a clove, all in a fine powder, with parsley, chives, 
 thyme, savoury, and knotted marjorum, shred as 
 small as possible, and well mixed. With a sharp 
 knife make holes deep enough to let in the larding, 
 then rub the beef over with the seasoning, and bind 
 it up tight with tape. Set it in a well tinned pot 
 over a fire or rather stove ; three or four onions 
 must be fried brown and put to the beef, with two 
 or three carrots, one turnip, a head or two of celery, 
 and a small quantity of water, let it simmer gently 
 ten or twelve hours, or till extremely tender, turn¬ 
 ing the meat twice. 
 
28 
 
 Put the gravy into a pan, remove the tat, keep 
 the beef covered, then put them together, and add 
 a glass of port wine. Take off the tape, and serve 
 with the vegetable : or you may strain them off, and 
 send them up cut into dice for garnish. Onions 
 roasted, and then stewed with the gravy, are a great 
 improvement. A tea-cupful of vinegar should be 
 stewed with the beef. 
 
 J) fricandeau of Beef. 
 
 Take a nice bit of lean bgef; lard it with bacon 
 seasoned with pepper, salt, cloves, mace, and alspice. 
 Put it into a stew-pan with a pint of broth, a glass 
 of white wine, a bundle of parsley, all sorts of sweet 
 herbs, a clove of garlic, a shallot or two, four 
 cloves, pepper and salt. When the meat is become 
 tender, cover it close, skim the sauce well, and 
 strain it; set it on the fire, and let it boil till it is 
 reduced to a glaze. Glaze the larded side with this, 
 and serve the meat on sorrel-sauce. 
 
 To stew a rump of Beef. 
 
 Wash it well, and season it high with pepper, 
 Cayenne, salt, alspice, three cloves, and a blade ol 
 mace, all in fine powder. Bind it up tight, and lay 
 it into a pot that will just hold it. Fry three large 
 onions sliced, and put them to it, with three carrots, 
 two turnips, a shallot, four cloves, a blade of mace, 
 and some celery. Cover the meat with good beef- 
 broth, or weak gravy. Simmer it as gently as pos¬ 
 sible for several hours, till quite tender. Clear off 
 the fat; and add to the gravy half a pint of port 
 wine, a glass of vinegar, and a large spoon of catsup. 
 Simmer half an hour, and serve in a deep dish.— 
 Half a pint of table-beer may be added. The herb3 
 to be used should be burnet, tarragon, parsley. 
 
29 > 
 
 thyme, basil, savoury, marjorum, pennyroyal, 
 knotted marjorum, and some chives, if you can get 
 them, but observe to proportion the quan ities to 
 the pungency of the several sorts—let there be a 
 good handful altogether. 
 
 Garnish with carrots, turnips, or truffles and 
 morels, or pickles of different colours, cut -small, 
 and laid in little heaps separate : chopped parsley, 
 chives, beet-root, &,c. if, when done, the gravy is 
 too much to fill the dish, take only a part to season 
 for serving, but tne less water the better : and to 
 increase the richness, add a few beef bones and 
 shanks of mutton in stewing. A spoonful or two of 
 made mustard is a great improvement to the gravy. 
 
 To stew a Brisket of Beef 
 
 Put the part that has the hard fat into a stew-pot 
 with a small quantity of .vater ; let it boil up, and 
 skim it thoroughly ; then add carrots, turnips, 
 onions, celery, and a few pepper-corns. Stew it 
 extremely tender ; then take out the flat bones, and 
 remove all the fat from the soup. Either serve 
 that and the meat in a tureen, or the soup alone, and 
 the meat on a dish, garnished with some vegetables. 
 The following sauce is much admired served with 
 the beef:— Take half a pint of the soup, and mix 
 it with a spoonful of catsup, a glass of port w ine, 
 a tea-spoonful of made mustard, a little flour, a hit 
 of butter and salt; boil altogether a few minutes, 
 then pour it round the meat. Chop capers, wal¬ 
 nuts, red cabbage, pickled cucumbers, and chives 
 or parsley, small, but in several heaps over it. 
 
 To press Beef. 
 
 Salt a bit of brisket, thin part of the flank, or the 
 lops of the ribs, with salt and saltpetre five days, 
 
 3 * 
 
30 
 
 then boil it gently till extremely tender ; put it un¬ 
 der a great weight, or in a cheese-press, till perfect¬ 
 ly cold. It eats excellently cold, and for sand¬ 
 wiches. 
 
 To make hunter's Beef. 
 
 To a round of beef that weighs twenty-five 
 pounds, take three ounces of saltpetre, three 
 ounces, of the coarsest sugar, an ounce of cloves, a 
 nutmeg, half an ounce of alspice, add three hand¬ 
 fuls of common salt, all in the finest powder. 
 
 The beef should hang two or three days; then 
 rub the above well into it, and turn and rub it every 
 day for two or three weeks. The bone must be 
 taken out at first. When to be dressed, dip it into 
 cold water, to take oif the loose spice, bind it up 
 tight with tape, and put it into a pan with a tea-cup¬ 
 ful of water at the bottom, cover the top of the 
 meat with shred suet, and the pan with a brown 
 crust and paper, and bake it five or six hours.— 
 When cold take off the paste and tape. 
 
 The gravy is very fine ; and a little of it adds 
 greatly to the flavour of any hash, soup, &c.—Both 
 the gravy and the beef will keep some time. 
 
 An excellent mode of dressing Beef. 
 
 Hang three ribs three or four days ; take out the 
 bones from the whole length, sprinkle it with salt, 
 roll the meat tight, and roast it. Nothing can look 
 nicer. The above done with spices, &,c. and baked 
 as hunters’ beef, is excellent. 
 
 To collar Beef. 
 
 Choose the thin end of the flank of fine mellow 
 beef, but not too fat; lay it into a dish with salt and 
 saltpetre, turn and rub it every day for a week, and 
 keep it cool. Then take out every bone and gristle. 
 
31 
 
 remove the skin of the inside part, and cover it 
 thick with the following seasoning cut small :— a 
 large handful of parsley, the same of sage, some 
 thyme, marjorun, and pennyroyal, pepper, salt, 
 and alspice. Roll the meat up as tight as possible, 
 and bind it, then boil it gently for seven or eight 
 hours. A cloth must be put round before the tape. 
 Put the beef under a good weight while hot, without 
 undoing it: the shape will then be oval. Part of a 
 breast of veal rolled in with the beef, looks and eats 
 very well. 
 
 Beef steaks 
 
 Should be cut from a rump that has hung a few 
 days. Broil them over a very clear or charcoal fire : 
 put into the dish a little minced shallot, and a table¬ 
 spoonful of catsup: and rub a bit of butter on the 
 steak the moment of serving. It should be turned 
 often, that the gravy may not be drawn out on 
 either side. 
 
 This dish requires to be eaten so hot and fresh 
 done, that it is not in perfection if served with any 
 thing else. Pepper and salt should be added when 
 taking it off the fire. 
 
 Beef steaks and Oyster sauce. 
 
 Strain oft' the liquor from the oysters, and throw 
 them into cold water, to take off the grit, while you 
 simmer the liquor with a bit of mace and lemon- 
 peel ; then put the oysters in, stew them a few 
 minutes, and a little cream, if you have it, and some 
 butter rubbed in a bit of flower ; let them boil up 
 once, and have rump-steaks well seasoned and 
 broiled, ready for throwing the oyster-sauce over, 
 the moment you are to serve. 
 
 Stewed Beefsteaks. 
 
 Beat them with a little rolling pin, flour and 
 
/ 
 
 3 . 2 ' 
 
 season, then fry with sliced onion of a fine light 
 brown, lav the steaks into a fi-tew-pan, and pour as 
 much boiling water over them as will serve for 
 sauce : stew them very gently half an hour, and add 
 a spoonful of catsup, or walnut liquor, before you 
 serve. 
 
 Italian Beef-steaks. 
 
 Cut a fine large steak from a rump that has been 
 well hung, or it w ill do from any tender part: beat 
 it, and season with pepper, salt, and an onion : lay 
 it into an iron stew pan that has a cover to fit quite 
 close., and set it by the side of the fire without wa¬ 
 ter. Take care it does not burn, but it must have 
 a strong heat: in two or three hours it will be quite 
 lender, and then serve with its own gravy. 
 
 Beef Collops... 
 
 Cut thin slices of beef from the rump, or any 
 Qther tender part, and divide them into pieces three 
 inches long; beat them with a blade of a knife, and 
 flour them. Fry the collops quick in butter two 
 minutes, then lay them into a small stew-pan, and 
 cover them with a pint of gravy ; add a bit of butter 
 rubbed in flour, pepper, salt, the least bit of shallot, 
 •shred as fine as possible, half a walnut, four small 
 pickled cucumbers, a tea-spoonful of capers cut 
 small. Take care that it does not boil, and serve 
 She stew in a very hot covered dish. 
 
 Beef Palates. 
 
 Simmer them in water several hours, till they will 
 peel; then cut the palates into slices, or leave them 
 whole, as you choose ; and stew them in a rich gra¬ 
 vy till as tender as possible. Before you serve, 
 season them with Cayenne, salt, and catsup. If the 
 
33 
 
 gravy was drawn clear, add also some butter and 
 
 flour. 
 
 If to be served white, boil them in milk, and stew 
 them in fricassee-sauce, adding cream, butter, flour 
 and mushroom-powder, and a little pounded mace. 
 
 Beef cakes for a side dish of dressed meat. 
 
 Pound some beef that is underdone with a little 
 fat bacon, or ham ; season with pepper, salt, and a 
 little shallot, or garlic; mix them well, and make it 
 into small cakes, three inches long, and half as wide 
 and thick ; fry them in a light brown, and serve 
 them in a good thick gravy. 
 
 To pot Beef. 
 
 Take two pounds of lean beef, rub it with salt¬ 
 petre, and let it lie one night; then salt with com¬ 
 mon salt, and cover it with water four days in a 
 small pan. Dry it with a cloth, and season with 
 black-pepper ; lay it into as small a pan as will hold 
 it, cover it with coarse paste, and bake it five hours 
 in a very cool oven. Put no liquor in. 
 
 When cold, pick out the strings, and fat: beat 
 the meat very fine with a quarter of a pound of fine 
 butter, just warm; but not oiled, and as much of the 
 gravy as will make it into a paste ; put it into very 
 small pots, and cover them with melted butter. 
 
 To dress the inside of a cold Sirloin of Beef. 
 
 Cut out all the meat, and a little fat, into pieces as 
 thick as your finger, and two inches long : dredge 
 it with flour ; and fry in butter, of a nice brown, 
 drain the butter from the meat and toss it up in a 
 rich gravy, seasoned with pepper, salt anchovy, and 
 shallot. Do not let it boil on any account. Before 
 you serve add two spoonfuls of vinegar. Garnish 
 w'*h crimped parslev. 
 
Fricassee of cold roast Beef. 
 
 Cut the beet’ into very thin slices, shred a hand¬ 
 ful of parsley very small, cut an onion into quarters, 
 and put all together into a stew-pan, with a piece of 
 butter and some strong broth ; season with salt and 
 pepper, and simmer very gently a quarter of an 
 hour ; then mix into it the yolks of two eggs, a 
 glass of port wine, and a spoonful of vinegar ; stir 
 it quick, rub the dish with shallot, and turn the fri¬ 
 cassee into it. 
 
 To dress cold BeeJ that has not been done enough, call¬ 
 ed Beef-Olives. 
 
 Cut sclices half an inch thick, and four inches 
 square ; lay them on forcemeat of crumbs of bread, 
 shallot, a little suet, or fat, pepper and salt. Roll 
 them and, fasten with a small skewer ; put them 
 into a stew-pan with some gravy made ofbeef bones, 
 or the gravy of the meat, and a spoonful of water, 
 and stew them till tender. Fresh meat will do. 
 
 To mince Beef. 
 
 Shred the underdone part fine, with some of the 
 fat, put into a small stew-pan, with some onion or shal¬ 
 lot, (a very little will do,) a little water, pepper, and 
 salt ; boil it till the onion is quite soft ; then put 
 some of the gravy of the meat to it, and the mince. 
 Do not let it boil. Have a small hot dish with sip¬ 
 pets of bread ready, and pour the mince into it, but 
 first mix a large spoonful of vinegar with it; if shal¬ 
 lot-vinegar is used, there will be no need of the 
 onion nor the raw shallot.- 
 
 To hash Beef. 
 
 Do it the same as in the last receipt; only the meat 
 is to be slices, and you may add a spoonful of 
 walnut liquor or catsup. 
 
35 
 
 Observe, that it is owing to toiling hash or minces, 
 that they get hard. AM sorts ot' stews, or meats 
 dressed a second time, should be only simmered ; 
 and this last only hot through. 
 
 Beef a-la vingrette. 
 
 Cut a slice of underdone boiled beef three inches 
 thick, and a little fat ; stew it in half a pint of water, 
 a glass of white wine, a bunch of sweet herbs, an 
 onion, and a bay leaf; season it with three cloves 
 pounded, and pepper, till the liquor is nearly w r asted 
 away, turning it once. When cold, serve it. Strain 
 off the gravy, and mix it with a little vinegar fo ( r 
 sauce. 
 
 Round of Beef. 
 
 Should be carefully salted, and wet with the 
 pickle for eight or ten days. The bone should be 
 cui out first, and the beef skewer ed and tied up, to 
 make it quite round. It may be stuffed with parsley 
 if approved; in which case the holes to admit the 
 parsley must be made with a sharp pointed knife, 
 and the parsley coarsely cut, and stuffed in tight.— 
 As soon as it boils it should be skimmed, and after¬ 
 wards kept boiling very gently. 
 
 Rolled Beef that equals Hare. 
 
 Take the inside of a large sirloin, soak it in a 
 glass of port wine and a glass of vinegar mixed, for 
 forty-eight hours ; have ready a very fine stuffing, 
 and bind it up tight. Roast it on a hanging spit, and 
 baste it with a glass of port wine, the same quantity 
 of vinegar, and a tea-spoonful of pounded alspice.— 
 Larding improves the look and flavour : serve with 
 rich gravy in the dish ; currant-jelly and melted 
 butter in tureens. 
 
36 
 
 To roast Tongue and Udder. 
 
 After cleaning the tongue well, salt it with com¬ 
 mon salt and saltpetre three days ; then boil it, and 
 likewise a fine young udder with some fat to it, till 
 tolerably tender ; then tie the thick part of one to 
 the thin part of the other, and roast the tongue and 
 udder. 
 
 Serve them with good gravy, and currant-jelly 
 sauce. A few cloves should be stuck in the udder. 
 
 To stew Tongue. 
 
 Salt a tongue with saltpetre and common salt for 
 a week, turning, it every day. Boil it tender enough 
 to peel ; when done stew it in a moderately strong 
 gravy ; season with soy, mushroom catsup, Cay¬ 
 enne, pounded cloves, and salt if necessary. 
 
 Serve w ith truffles, morels, and mushrooms. In 
 both this receipt and the next, the roots must be 
 taken off the tongues before salting, but some fat 
 left. 
 
 An excellent way of doing Tongues to eat cold. 
 
 Season with common salt and saltpetre, brown 
 ^iigar, a little bay-salt, pepper, cloves, mace and 
 alspice, in fine powder for a fortnight ; then take 
 away the pickle, put the tongue into a small pan, 
 and lay some butter on it; cover it with brown 
 crust, and bake slowly till so tender that a straw 
 would go through it. 
 
 The thin part of tongues, when hung up to dry, 
 grates like hung beef, and also makes a fine addition 
 to the flavour of omlets. 
 
 Beef-heart. 
 
 Wash it carefully ; stuff as a hare ; and serve 
 with rich gravy, and currant-jelly sauce. Hash 
 with the same, and port wine. 
 
Stewed Ox-cheek, plain. 
 
 Soak and cleanse a fine cheek the day before it is 
 to be eaten ; put it into a stew-pot that will cover 
 close, with three quarts of water ; simmer it after 
 it has first boiled up and been well skimmed. In 
 two hours put plenty of carrots, leeks, two or three 
 fnrnips, a bunch of sweet herbs, some whole pep¬ 
 per, and four ounces of alspice. Skim it often ; 
 when the meat is tender take it out; let the soup 
 get cold, take off the cake of fat, and serve the soup 
 separate or with meat. 
 
 It should be a fine brown ; which might be done 
 by burnt sugar ; or by frying some onions quite 
 brown with flour, and simmering them with it. This 
 last way improves the flavour of all soups and gra¬ 
 vies of the brown kind. 
 
 If vegetables are not approved of in the soup, 
 they may be taken out, and a small roll toasted, or 
 bread fried and added. Celery is a great addition, 
 and should always be served. Where it is not to be 
 got, the seed of it gives quite as good a flavour, 
 boiled in, and strained oft. 
 
 To dress Ox-cheek another way. 
 
 Soak half a head three hours, and clean it with 
 plenty of water. Take the meat off the bones; and 
 put it into a pan with a large onion, a bunch of sweet 
 herbs, some bruised alspice, pepper and salt. 
 
 Lay the bones on the top : pour on two or three 
 quarts of water, and cover the pan close with brown 
 paper, or a dish that will fit close. Let it stand 
 eight or ten hours in a slow oven ; or simmer it by 
 the side of the fire, or on a hot hearth. When 
 done tender, put the meat into a clean pan, and let 
 it get cold. Take the cake of fat off, and warm the 
 
 4 
 
3S 
 
 head in pieces in the soup. Put what vegetables 
 you choose. 
 
 Marrowbones. 
 
 Cover the top with d >ured cloth ; boil them, and 
 serve with dry toast. 
 
 Tripe 
 
 May be served in a tureen, stewed with milk and 
 onion till tender. Melted butter for sauce. 
 
 Or try it in small bits dipped in batter. 
 
 Or stew the thin part, cut into bits, in gravy ; 
 thicken with flour and butter, and add a little cat¬ 
 sup. 
 
 Or fricassee it with white sauce. 
 
 Soused Tripe. 
 
 Boil the tripe, hut not quite tender ; then put it 
 into salt and water, which must be changed every 
 day till it is all used. When you dress the tripe, 
 dip it into batter of flour and eggs, and fry it of a 
 good brown. 
 
 Ox-feet or Cow-heels, 
 
 May be dressed in various ways, and are very nu¬ 
 tritious in all. 
 
 Coil them, and serve them in a napkin ; with 
 melted butter, mustard, and a large spoonful of vine¬ 
 gar. 
 
 Or boil them very tender, and serve them as a 
 brown fricassee: the liquor will do to make jelly 
 sweet or relishing, and likewise to give richness to 
 soups or gravy. 
 
 Or cut them into four parts, dip them into an egg ; 
 and then (lour and fry them ; and fry onions, (if you 
 like them) to serve rounl. Sauce as above 
 
 Or bake them as for n ock-turtle. 
 
30 
 
 VEAL. 
 
 To keep Veal. 
 
 The first part that turns bad of a leg of veal, Is 
 where the udder is skewered back. The skewer 
 should be taken out, and both that and the meat un¬ 
 der it wiped every day, by which means it will keep 
 good three or four days in hot weather. 
 
 Leg of Veal. 
 
 Let the fillet be cut large or small, as best suits 
 the number of your comp my. Take out the bone, 
 fill the space with fine stuffing, and let it be skew¬ 
 ered quite round ; and send the large side upper¬ 
 most. When half roasted, if not before, put a pa¬ 
 per over the fat; and take care to allow a sufficient 
 time, and put it a good distance from the fire, as the 
 meat is very solid ; serve with melted butter pour¬ 
 ed over it.—You may pot some of it. 
 
 Knuckle of Veal. 
 
 As few people are fond of boiled veal, it may be 
 well to leave the knuckle small, and take off some 
 utlets or collops before it be dressed ; and as the 
 knuckle will keep longer than the fillet, it is best 
 not to cut off the slices till wanted. Break the 
 bone to make it take less room ; wash it vvell ; and 
 put it in a saucepan with three onions, a blade or 
 two of mace, and a few pepper corns ; cover it 
 with water, and simmer it liil quite ready. In the 
 mean time some macaroni should be boiled with it if 
 approved, or rice, or a little rice flour, to give it a 
 small degree of thickness : hut do not put too much. 
 Before it is served, add half a pint of milk and 
 cream, and let it come up either with or without the 
 meat. 
 
 Or fry the knuckle with sliced onions and butter 
 
40 
 
 to a good brown; and have ready peas, lettuce, 
 on'nn, and a cucumber or two, stewed in small 
 quantity of water, an hour; then add these to the 
 veal; and stew it till the meat is tender enough to 
 eat, but not overdone. Throw in pepper, salt, and 
 a bit of shred mint, and serve altogether. 
 
 Shoulder of Veal. 
 
 Cut off the knuckle, for a stew or gravy. Roast 
 the other part for stuffing ; you may lard it. Serve 
 with melted butter. 
 
 The blade-bone, with a good deal of meat left on, 
 eats extremely well with mushroom or oyster-sauce, 
 or mushroom-catsup in butter. 
 
 Neck of Veal. 
 
 Cut off the scrag to boil, and cover it with onion- 
 sauce. It should be boiled in milk and water. 
 Parsley and butter may be served with it, instead of 
 onion-sauce. 
 
 Or it may be stewed with whole rice, small onions, 
 and pepper-corns, with a very little water. 
 
 Or boiled and eaten with bacon and greens. 
 
 The best end may be either roasted, broiled as 
 steaks, or made into pies. 
 
 Neck of Veal a-la-braise. 
 
 Lard the best end with bacon rolled in parsley 
 chopped tine, salt, pepper, and nutmeg : put it in¬ 
 to a tosser, and cover it with water. Put to it the 
 scrag-end, a little lean bacon or ham, an onion, two 
 carrots, two heads of celery, and about a glass of 
 Madeira wine. Stew it quick two hours, or till it is 
 tender, but not too much. Strain off the liquor: 
 mix a little dour and butter in a stew-pan till brown, 
 and lay the veal in this, the upper side to the bottom 
 of the pan. Let it be over the fire till it 
 
41 
 
 coloured ; then lay it into the dish, stir some of the 
 liquor in and boil it up, skim it nicely, and squeeze 
 orange or lemon-juice into it. 
 
 Breast of Veal. 
 
 Before roasted, if large, the two ends may be ta¬ 
 ken off and fried to stew, or the whole may be roast¬ 
 ed.—Butter should be poured over it. 
 
 If any be left, cut the pieces into handsome sizes, 
 put them into a stew-pan, and pour some broth over 
 it; or if you have no broth, a little water will do ; 
 add a bunch of herbs, a blade or two of mace, some 
 pepper and an anchovy ; stew till the meat is ten¬ 
 der, thicken with butter and flour, add a little catsup ; 
 or the whole breast may be stewed, after cutting off 
 the two ends. 
 
 Serve the sweetbread whole upon it, which may 
 either be stewed, or parboiled, and then covered 
 with crumbs, herbs, pepper, and salt, and browned 
 in a Dutch oven. 
 
 To roll a Breast of Veal. 
 
 Bone it, take off the thick skin and gristle, and 
 beat the meat with a rolling-pin. Season it with 
 herbs chopped very fine, mixed with salt, pepper, 
 and mace. Lay some thick slices of fine ham ; or 
 roll it into two or three calves’ tongues of a fine red, 
 boiled first an hour or two, and skinned. Bind it 
 up tight in a cloth, and tape it. Set it over the fire 
 to simmer, in a small quantity of water, till it is 
 quite tender ; this will take some hours. Lay it on 
 the dresser, with a board and weight on it till quite 
 cold. 
 
 Figs’ or calves’ feet boiled and taken from the 
 bones, may be put in or round it. The different 
 colours laid in lavers look well when cut; and vou 
 
 4 * 
 
42 
 
 may put in yolks of eggs boiled, beet-root, grated 
 ham, and chopped parsley in different parts. 
 
 Chump of Veal a-la-daube. 
 
 Cut oft' the chump end of the loin ; take out the 
 edgebone : stuff the hollow with good forcemeat, tie 
 it up tight, and lay in a stew-pan with the bone you 
 take out, a little faggot of herbs, an anchovy, two 
 blades of mace, a few white peppers, and a pint of 
 good veal-broth.—Cover the veal with slices of fat 
 bacon, and lay a sheet of white paper over it. Co¬ 
 ver the pan close, simmer it for two hours, then 
 take out the bacon, and glaze the veal.—Serve it on 
 mushrooms, or with sorrel-sauce, or what else you 
 please. 
 
 Veal-rolls of either cold Meat or fresh. 
 
 Cut thin slices ; and spread on them a fine season¬ 
 ing of a very few crumbs, a little chopped bacon or 
 scraped ham, and a little suet, parsley, and shallot 
 (or instead of the parsley and shallot, some fresh 
 mushrooms stewed and minced,) pepper, salt, and a 
 small piece of pounded mace. 
 
 This stuffing may either fill up the roll like a sau¬ 
 sage, or be rolled with the meat. In either case tie 
 it up very tight, and stew very slowly in a gravy 
 and a glass of sherry.—Serve it when tender, after 
 skimming it nicely. 
 
 A Dunelrn of cold Veal or Fowl. 
 
 Stew a few small mushrooms in their own liquor 
 and a bit of butter, a quarter of an hour; mince 
 them very small, and add them (with their liquor) 
 to minced veal, with also a little pepper and salt, 
 eome cream, and a bit of butter rubbed in less than 
 half a tea-spoonful of flour. Simmer three or four 
 oinutee, and serve on thin sippets of bread. 
 
43 
 
 Minced Veal 
 
 Cat cold veal as fine as possible, but do not chop 
 it. Put to it a very little lemon-peel shred, two 
 grates of nutmeg, some salt, and four or five spoon¬ 
 fuls of either a little weak broth, milk, or water- 
 simmer these gently with the meat, but take care 
 ’aot to let it boil ; and add a bit of butter rubbed 
 ;n flour. Put sippets of thin toasted bread, cut into 
 a three-cornered shape, round the dish. 
 
 To pot Veal. 
 
 Cold fillet makes the finest potted veal ; or you 
 may do it as follows': 
 
 Season a large slice of the fillet before it is dress¬ 
 ed, with some mace, pepper corns, and two or three 
 cloves, lay it close into a potting-pan that will but 
 just hold it; fill it up with water, and bake it three 
 hours ; then pound it quite small in a mortar, and 
 add salt to taste ; put a little gravy that was baked 
 to it in pounding, if to be eaten soon, otherwise, 
 only a little butter just melted. When done, cover 
 it over with butter. 
 
 To pot Veal or Chicken with Ham. 
 
 Pound some cold veal or white of chicken, sea¬ 
 soned as directed in the last article, and put layers 
 of it with layers of ham pounded or rather shred ; 
 press each down, and cover with butter. 
 
 Cutlets Maintenon. 
 
 Cut slices about three quarters of an inch thick, 
 heat them with a rolling-pin, and wet them on both 
 sides with egg ; dip them into a seasoning of bread¬ 
 crumbs, parsley, thyme, knotted marjoram, pepper, 
 salt, and a little nutmeg grated ; then put them into 
 papers folded over, and broil them, and have in a 
 boat melted butter, with a little mushroom catsup. 
 
44 
 
 Outlets another way. 
 
 Prepare as above, and fry them ; lay them into a 
 dish, and keep them hot, dredge a little flour, and 
 put a bit of butter into the pan ; brown it, then pour 
 a little boiling water into it, and boil quick : season 
 with pepper, salt, and catsup, and pour over them. 
 
 Veal Collops, 
 
 Cut long thin collops ; beat them well, and lay on 
 them a bit of thin bacon of the same size, and 
 spread forcemeat on that, seasoned high, and also a 
 little garlic and Cayanne. Roll them up tight, about 
 the size of two fingers, but no more than two or 
 three inches long ; put a very small skewer to fasten 
 each firmly ; rub egg over : fry them of a fine brown, 
 and pour a rich brow n gravy over. 
 
 To dress Collops quick. 
 
 Cut them as thin as paper with a very sharp knife, 
 and in small bits. Throw the skin and any odd bits 
 of the veal, into a little water, with a dust of pep¬ 
 per and salt; set them on the fire while you beat the 
 collops: and dip them into a seasoning of herbs, 
 bread, pepper, salt, and scrape of nutmeg, but first 
 wet them in egg. Then put a bit of butter into a 
 frying-pan, and give the collops, a very quick fry ; 
 for as they are so thin, two minutes will do them on 
 both sides ; put them into a hot dish before the fire ; 
 then strain and thicken the gravy, give it aboil in 
 the frying-pan, and pour it over the collops. A lit¬ 
 tle catsup is an improvement. 
 
 Scallops of cold Veal or Chicken. 
 
 Mince the meat extremely small; and set it over 
 the fire with a scrap of nutmeg, a little pepper and 
 salt, and a little cream, for a few minutes ; then put 
 it into the scallop shell, and fill tVem with crumbs 
 
45 
 
 of bread, over which put some bits of bi tter, and 
 brown them before the fire. 
 
 Fricandeau of Veal. 
 
 Cut a large piece from the fat side of the leg, 
 about nine inches long and half as thick cud broad ; 
 beat it with the rolling-pin ; take off the skin, and 
 trim off the rough edges. Lard the top and sides; 
 and cover it with fat bacon, and then with white pa¬ 
 per Lay it into the stew-pan with any pieces of 
 undressed veal or mutton, four onions, a carrot sli¬ 
 ced, a faggot of sweet herbs, four blades of mace, 
 four bay-leaves, a pint of good ve >1 or mutton broth, 
 and four or five ounces of lean ham or gammon.— 
 Cover the pan close, and let it stew slowly three 
 hours ; then take up the meat, remove all the fat 
 from the gravy, and boil it quick to a glaze. Keep 
 the fricandeau quite hot, and then glaze it; and serve 
 with the remainder of the glaze in the dish, and 
 sorrel-sauce in a sauce tureen. 
 
 Fricandeau another way. 
 
 Take two large round sweetbreads and prepare 
 them as you would veal ; m ike a rich gravy with 
 truffles, morels, mushrooms, and artichoke-bottoms, 
 and serve it round. 
 
 Veal Olives. 
 
 Cut long thin collop>, beat them, lay on them thin 
 slices of fat bacon, and over these a layer of force¬ 
 meat seasoned high, with some shred shallot and 
 Cayenne. Roll them tight, J about the size of two 
 fingers, but not more than two or three inches long, 
 fasten them round with a small skewer, rub egg 
 over them, and fry them of a light brown. 
 
 Serve with brown gravy, in which boil some 
 mushrooms pickled or fresh. Garnish with balls fried. 
 
46 
 
 Veal Cake. 
 
 Boil six or eight eggs hard ; cut the yolks in two, 
 and lay some of the pieces in the bottom of the pot. 
 shake in a little chopped parsley, some slices of veal 
 and ham, add then eggs again; shaking in after each 
 some chopped parsley, with pepper and salt, till the 
 pot is full. Then put in water enough to cover it, 
 and lay on it about an ounce of butter ; lie it ovei 
 with a double paper, and bake it about an hour. 
 Then press it close together with a spoon, and let it 
 
 stand till cold. . 
 
 It, may be put into a small mould ; and then it will 
 
 turn out beautifully for a supper or side dish. 
 
 Veal Sausages. 
 
 Chop equal quantities of lean and fat bacon, a 
 handful of sage, a little salt and pepper, and a few 
 anchovies. Beat all in a mortar; and when used 
 roll and fry it, and serve it with fried sippets, or on 
 stewed vegetables, or on white collops. 
 
 Scotch Collops. 
 
 Cut veal into thin bits about three inches over, 
 and rather round; beat with a rolling-pin, and 
 grate a little nutmeg over them; dip into the yolk 
 of an egg, and fry them in a little butter of a fine 
 brown: pour the butter off: and ready warm to 
 pour upon them half a pint of gravy, a little bit ol 
 butter rubbed into a little flour, a yolk of egg, two 
 large spoonfuls of cream, and a bit of salt. Do not 
 boil the sauce, but it till of a fine thickness to 
 serve with the collo* 
 
 To boil Calf's Head. [ . 
 
 Clean it very nicely, and soak it in water, till it 
 may look very white : take out the tongue to sa , 
 and the brains to make a little dish. Boil the head 
 
47 
 
 extremely tender; then strew it over with crumbs 
 and chopped parsley, and brown them ; or if liked 
 better, leave one side plain. Bacon and greens are 
 to be served to eat with it. 
 
 The brains must be boiled ; and then mixed with 
 melted butter, scalded sage chopped ; pepper, and 
 salt. 
 
 If any of the head is left, it may be hashed next 
 •1 ay, and a few slices of bacon just warmed and put 
 round. Cold calf’s head eats well if grilled. 
 
 To hash Calfs Head , 
 
 When half boiled cut off the meat in slices, half 
 an inch thick, and two or three inches long : brown 
 some butter, flour, and sliced onion, and throw in 
 the slices with some good gravy, truffles, and mo¬ 
 rels ; give it one boil, and skim it well, and set it in 
 a moderate heat to simmer till very tender. 
 
 Season with pepper, salt and Cayenne, at first; 
 and ten minutes before serving, throw in some shred 
 parsley, and a very small bit of taragon and knotted- 
 marjoram cut as fine ns possible ; just before you 
 serve, add the squeeze of a lemon. Forcemeat- 
 balls, and bits of bacon rolled round. 
 
 Calf’s Head Fricasseed. 
 
 Clean and half boil a bead ; cut the meat into 
 «mall bits, and put it into a tosser, with a little gravy 
 made of the bones, some of the water it was boiled 
 in, a bunch of sweet herbs, an onion and a blade of 
 mace. If you have any young cockrels in the house, 
 flse the coxcombs ; but first boil them tender, and 
 blanch them; or a sweet-bread will do as good. 
 Season the gravy with a little pepper, nutmeg, and 
 salt, rub down some flour and butter, and give all a 
 boil together ; then take out the herbs and onion . 
 
48 
 
 and add a little cup of cream, but do not boil it in.— 
 Serve with small bits of bacon rolled round, and balls. 
 
 To collar Calf’s Head. 
 
 Scald the skin off a fine head, clean it nicely, and 
 take out the brains. Boil it tender enough to re¬ 
 move the bones : then have ready a good quantity of 
 chopped parsley, mace, nutmeg, salt, and white 
 pepper, mixed well ; season it high with these ; 
 lay the parsley in a thick layer, then a quantity of 
 thick slices of fine ham, or a beautiful-coloured 
 tongue skinned, and then the yolks of six nice yel¬ 
 low eggs stuck here and there about. Roll the head 
 quite close, and tie it up as tight as you can. Boil 
 it, and then lay a weight on it. 
 
 A cloth must be put under the tape, as for the 
 other collars. 
 
 Mock Turtle. 
 
 Bespeak a calf’s head with the skin on, cut it in 
 half, and clean it well; then half-boil it, take all the 
 meat off in square bits, break the bones of the head, 
 and boil them in some veal and beef broth to add to 
 the richness. Fry some shallot in butter, and 
 dredge in flour enough to thicken the gravy; stir 
 this into the browning, and give it one or two boils : 
 skim it carefully, and then put in the head ; put in 
 also a pint of Madeira wine, and simmer till the meat 
 is quite tender. About ten minutes before you 
 serve, put in some basil, taragon, chives, parsley, 
 Cayenne pepper, and salt, to your taste; also two 
 spoonfuls or mushroom-catsup, and one of soy. 
 
 Squeeze the juice ot a lemon into the tureen, and 
 pour the soup upon it. Forcemeat-balls and small 
 eggs. 
 
 A cheaper way . —Prepare half a calf’s head with¬ 
 out the skin as above : when the meat is cut ofi* 
 
49 
 
 break the bones, and put them into a sauce-pan with 
 some gravy made of beef and veal bones, and sea¬ 
 soned with fried onions, herbs, mace, and pepper. 
 Have ready two or three ox-palates boiled so ten¬ 
 der as to blanch, and cut into small pieces ; to which 
 a cow heel, likewise cut into pieces, is a great im¬ 
 provement. Brown some butter, dour, and onion, 
 and pour the gravy to it ; then add the meats as 
 above, and stew. Half a pint of sherry, an ancho¬ 
 vy, two spoonfuls of walnut catsup, the same of mush¬ 
 room catsup, and some chopped herbs as before.— 
 Balls, Lc. 
 
 Another . —Put into a can a knuckle of veal, two 
 fine cow-heels, two onions, a few cloves, pep¬ 
 pers, berries of alspice, mace, and sweet herbs : 
 cover them with wut r, then tie a thick paper over 
 the pan, and set it in an oven for three hours. — 
 When cold take off the fat very nicely ; cut the meat 
 and feet into bits an inch and a half square ; remove 
 the bones and coarse parts ; and then put the rest 
 on to warm, with a large spoonful of walnut and one 
 of mushroom catsup, half a pint of sherry or Madei¬ 
 ra wine, a little mushroom powder, and the jelly of 
 the meat. When hot, if it wants any more season¬ 
 ing, add some ; and serve with hard eggs, force¬ 
 meat-balls, squeeze of lemon, and a spoonful of soy. 
 
 An excellent and very cheap mock turtle may be 
 made of two or three cow-heels baked with two 
 pounds and a half of gravy-beef, herbs, &c. as above 
 with cow-heels and veal. 
 
 Calf's Liver. 
 
 Slice it, season with pepper and salt, and broil 
 nicely ; rub a bit of cold butter on it, and serve hot 
 and hot. 
 
 5 
 
60 
 
 Calf’s Liver roasted. 
 
 Wash, and wipe it; then cut a long hole in it, and 
 stuff it with crumbs of bread, chopped anchovy, 
 herbs, a good deal of fat bacon, onion, salt, pepper, 
 a bit of butter, and an egg ; sew the liver up ; then 
 lard it, or wrap it in a veal-cawl, and roast it.— 
 Serve with good brown gravy, and currant-jelly. 
 
 To dress the Liver and Lights. 
 
 Half-boil an equal quantity of each, then cut them 
 in a middling-sized mince, put to it a spoonful or two 
 of the water that boiled it, abit of butter, flour, salt, 
 and pepper, simmer ten minutes and serve hot. 
 
 Sweetbreads. 
 
 Half-boil them, and stew them in a white gravy, 
 add cream, flour, butter, nutmeg, salt, and white 
 pepper. 
 
 Or do them in white sauce seasoned. 
 
 Or parboil them, and then cover them with 
 crumbs, herbs, and seasoning ; and brown them in 
 a Dutch oven. Serve with butter, and mushroom 
 catsup, or gravy. 
 
 Sweetbreads roasted. 
 
 Parboil two large ones : when cold lard them with 
 bacon, and roast them in a Dutch oven. For sauce, 
 plain butter and mushroom catsup. 
 
 Sweetbread Ragout. 
 
 Cut them, about the size of a walnut, wash and 
 dry them, then fry them of a fine brown ; pour to 
 them a good gravy, seasoned with salt, pepper, 
 alspice, and either mushrooms or mushroom catsup; 
 strain, and thicken with butter and a little flour. 
 
 ’ Kidney. 
 
 Chop veal-kidney, and some of the fat; likewise 
 a little leek or onion, pepper and salt; roll it up 
 with an egg into balls, and fry them. 
 
51 
 
 Calf’s heart stuff and roast as beef’s heart: or 
 sliced, make it into a pudding, as directed for steak 
 or kidney pudding. 
 
 PORK, ETC. 
 
 Bacon hogs and porkers are differently cut up. 
 
 Hogs are kept to a large size ; the chine, (or 
 back-bone,) is cut down on each side, the whole 
 length, and is a prime part either boiled or roasted. 
 
 The sides of a hog are made into bacon, and the 
 inside is cut out with very little meat to the bone. 
 On each side there is a large spare-rib ; which is 
 usually divided into two, one sweet-bone, and a 
 blade-bone. The bacon is the whole outside: and 
 contains a fore-leg and a ham; which last is the 
 hind-leg, but if left with the bacon it is called a 
 gammon. 
 
 To roast a leg of Pork. 
 
 Choose a small leg of tine young pork : cut a slit 
 in the knuckle with a sharp knife ; and fill the space 
 with sage and onion chopped, and a little pepper 
 and salt. When half-done, score the skin in slices, 
 but do not cut deeper than the outer rind. 
 
 Apple-sauce and potatoes should be served to eat 
 with it. 
 
 To boil a leg of Pork. 
 
 Salt it eight or ten days : when it is to be dressed 
 weigh it; let it lie half an hour in cold water, to 
 make it white : allow a quarter of an hour for every 
 pound, and half an hour over from the time it boils 
 up ; skim it as soon as it boils, and frequently after. 
 Allow water enough.—Save some of it to make 
 peas-soup. Some boil it in a very nice cloth, flour¬ 
 ed ; which gives a very delicate look. It should 
 be small and of a fine grain. Serve peas-pudding 
 and turnips with it. 
 
52 
 
 V / 
 
 Loin and Neck of Pork 
 
 Roast them. Cut the skin oi the loin across, at 
 distances of half an inch, with a sharp pen-knife. 
 
 Shoulders and Breasts of Pork. 
 
 Put them into pickle, or salt the shoulder as a 
 a leg : when very nice, they may be roasted. 
 
 Rolled Neck of Pork. 
 
 Bone it; put a forcemeat of chopped sage, a very 
 few crumbs of bread, salt, pepper, and two or three 
 berries of alspice, over the inside ; then roll the 
 meat as tight as you can, and roast it slowly, and at 
 a good distance at first. 
 
 Spring or Forehand of Pork. 
 
 Cut out the bone : sprinkle salt, pepper, and sage, 
 dried, over the inside ; but first warm a little but¬ 
 ter to baste it, and then flour it ; roll the pork tight, 
 and tie it; then roast by a hanging jack. About 
 two hours will do it. 
 
 Spo,re-Rib 
 
 Should be basted with a very little butter and a 
 little flour, and then sprinkled with a little dried 
 sage crumbled.—Apple-sauce and potatoes for 
 roasted pork. 
 
 Pork Griskin 
 
 Is usually very hard ; the best way to prevent 
 this is, to put it into as much cold water as will cover 
 it, and let it boil up ; then instantly take it ofl, and 
 put it into a Dutch oven ; a very few minutes will 
 doit. Remember to rub butter over it, and then 
 flour it, before you put it to the fire. 
 
 Blade-bone of Pork. 
 
 Is taken from the bacon-hog ; the less meat left on 
 it, in moderation, the better. It is to be broiled; 
 and when just done, pepper and salt it. Put to it a 
 
53 
 
 piece of buttei’, and a tea-spoonful of mustard ; and 
 serve it covered, quickly. 
 
 Pork-steaks. 
 
 Cut them from a loin or neck, and of middling 
 thickness : pepper and broil them, turning them 
 often ; when nearly done, put on salt, rub a bit of 
 butter over, and serve the moment they are taken 
 off the fire, a few at a time. 
 
 Sausages. 
 
 Chop fat and lean pork together; season it with 
 sage, pepper and salt, and you may add two or three 
 berries of alspice; half Jill hog’s guts that have' 
 been soaked and made extremely clean : or the meat 
 may be kept in a very small pan closely covered : 
 and so rolled and dusted with a very little flour be 
 fore it is fried. Serve cn stewed red cabbage ; or 
 mash potatoes put in ; form, brown with salamander, 
 and garnish with the above ; they must be pricked 
 with a fork before they are dressed, or they will burst. 
 
 An excellent Sausage to eat cold. 
 
 Season fat and lean pork with some salt, saltpetre, 
 black pepper, and alspice, all in fine powder, and 
 rub into the meat ; the sixth day cut it small, and 
 mix with it some shred shallot or garlic, as fine as 
 possible.—Have ready an ox-gut that has been 
 scoured, salted, and soaked well, and fill it with the 
 above stuffing ; tie up the ends, and hang it to smoke 
 as you would hams but first wrap it in a fold or two 
 of old muslin. It must be high-dried. Some eat it 
 without boiling, but others iike it boiled first. The 
 6kin should be tied in different places, so as to make 
 each link about eight or nine inches long. 
 
 Sausages. 
 
 Chop a pound and a half of pork, and the same of 
 
 5 * 
 
54 
 
 yeal, cleared of skin and sinews ; add three quarters 
 of a pound of beef-suet ; mince and mix them : steep 
 the crumb ofa penny-loaf in water, and mix it with 
 the meat, with also a lutle dried sage, pepper and 
 salt. 
 
 To roast a sucking Pig, 
 
 Ifyou can get it when just.killed, this is of g’ A 
 advantage. Let it be scalded, which the deu.jrs 
 usually do ; then put some sage, crumbs of bread, 
 salt, and pepper, into the belly, and sew it up. Ob¬ 
 serve to skewer the legs back or the under part 
 will not crisp. 
 
 Lay it to a brisk fire till thoroughly dry ; then 
 have ready some butter in a dry cloth, and rub the 
 pig with it in every part. Dredge >s much flour 
 over as will possibly lie, and do not touch it again 
 till ready to serve ; then scrape off the flour very 
 carefully with a blunt knife, rub it well with the 
 buttered cloth, and take off the h 1 while at the 
 fire ; take out the brains, and mix them with the 
 gravy that comes from the pig. Then take it up ; 
 and without withdrawing the spit, cut it down the 
 back and belly, lay it into the dish, and chop the sage 
 and bread quickly, as fine as you can, and mix them 
 with a large quantity of fine, melted butter that has 
 very little flour. Put the s nice into the dish after 
 the pig has been split down the back, and garnished 
 with the ears and the two jaws ; t ike off the upper 
 part of the head down to the snout. 
 
 Pettitoes. 
 
 Boil them, the liver, and the heart, in a small 
 quantity of water, very gently ; then cut the meat 
 fine, and simmer it with a little of the water and the 
 feet split, till the feet are quite tender ; thicken 
 with a bit of butter, a little flour, a spoonful of cream, 
 
55 
 
 and a little salt and pepper : give it a boil up, pour 
 it over a few sippets of bread, and put the feet on 
 the mince. 
 
 To make excellent meat of a Hog's Head. 
 
 Split the head, take out the brains, cut off the 
 ears, and sprinkle it with common salt for a day ; 
 then drain it : salt it. well with common salt and 
 saltpetre three days, then lay the salt and head into 
 a small quantity of water for two days. Wash it, 
 and boil ii till all the bones will come out; remove 
 them, and chop the head as quick as possible : but 
 first skin the tongue, and take the skin carefully off 
 the head, to put under and over. Season with pep¬ 
 per, salt, and a littte mace or alspice berries. Put 
 the skin into a small pan, press the cut head in, and 
 put the other skin over: press it down. When 
 cold, it will turn out, and make a kind of brawn. If 
 too fat, you may put a few bits of lean pork to be, 
 prepared the same way. Add salt and vinegar, and 
 boil these with some of the liquor for a pickle to 
 keep it. 
 
 To roast a Porker's Head . 
 
 Choose a fine young head, clean it well, and put 
 bread and sage as for pig ; sew it up tight, and on a 
 string or hanging jack roast it as a pig, and serve 
 with the same sauce. 
 
 To collar Pig's Head. 
 
 Scour the head atid*ears nicely; take off the hair 
 and snout, and take out the eyes and the brain ; lay 
 it into water one night, then drain, salt it extremely 
 well with common salt and saltpetre, and let it lie 
 five days. Boil it enough to take out the bones ; 
 then lay it on a dresser, turning the thick end of 
 one side of the head towards the thin end of the 
 
56 
 
 other, to make the roll of equal size ; sprinkle it 
 well with salt and white pepper, and roll it with the 
 ears ; and if you approve put the pig’s feet round 
 the outside when boned, or the thin parts of two 
 cow-heels. Put it into a cloth, bind with a broad 
 tape, and boil it till quite tender ; then put a good 
 weight upon it, and do not take off the covering till 
 cold. 
 
 If you choose it to be more like brawn, salt it 
 longer, and let the proportion of saltpetre be great¬ 
 er, and put in also some pieces of lean pork ; and 
 then cover it with cow heel to look like the horn. 
 
 This may be kept either in Or out of pickle of 
 salt and water boiled, with vinegar ; and is a conve 
 nient thing to have in the house. 
 
 If likely to spoil, slice and fry it either with or 
 without batter. 
 
 To force Hog’s Ears. 
 
 Parboil two pair of ears, or take some that have 
 been souced : make a forcemeat of an anchovy, some 
 sage, parsley, a quarter of a pound of suet chopped, 
 bread-crumbs, pepper, and only a little salt. Mix 
 all these with the yolks of two eggs ; raise the skin 
 of the upper side of the ears, and stuff them with 
 the above. Fry the ears in fresh butter, of a fine 
 colour; then pour away the fat, and drain them: 
 make ready half a pint of rich gravy, with a glass 
 of fine sherry, three tea-spoonfuls of made mustard, 
 a little bit of flour and butter, a small onion whole, 
 and a little pepper or Cayenne. Put this with the 
 ears, into a stew-pan, and cover it close ; stew it 
 gently for half an hour, shaking the pan often.— 
 When done enough, take out the onion, place the 
 ears carefully in a dish, and pour the sauce over 
 
them. If a larger dish is wanted, the meat from two 
 feet may be added to the above. 
 
 Different ways of dressing Pig's feet and Ears. 
 
 Clean carefully, and soak some hours, and boil 
 them tender ; then t ike them out ; boil some vine¬ 
 gar and a hale salt with some of the water, and when 
 cold put it over tl.ern. When they are to be dres¬ 
 sed, dry them, cut the feet in two, and slice the ears ; 
 fry, and serve with butter, mustard, and vinegar. 
 They may be either done in batter, or only floured. 
 
 Pig's Feel and Ears Fricasseed. 
 
 Put no vinegar into the pickle, if to be dressed 
 with cream. Cut the feet and ears into neat bits, 
 and boil them in a little milk ; then pour that from 
 them, and simmer in a little veal-broth, with a bit of 
 onion, mace, and lemon peel. Before you serve,, 
 add a little cream, flour, butter, and salt. 
 
 Jelly of Pig's Feet and Ears. 
 
 Clean and prepare as in the last article, then boil 
 them in a ver\ small quantity of water, till every 
 bone can be taken out ; throw in half an handful of 
 chopped sage, the same of parsley, and a seasoning 
 of pepper, salt, and mace in fine powder ; simmer 
 till the herbs are scalded, then pour the whole in a 
 melon form. 
 
 Pig's Harslet. 
 
 Wash and dry some liver, sweetbreads, and fat 
 and le,.n bits of pork, beating the latter with a roll¬ 
 ing-pin to m ike it tender : season with pepper, salt, 
 sage, and a little onion shred fine ; when mixed, put 
 all into a cawl, and fasten it up tight with a needle and 
 thread. Roast it on a hanging jack, or by a string. 
 
 Or serve in slices with parsley for a fry. 
 
 Serve with a sauce of port-wine and water, and 
 mustard, just boiled up, and put into a dish. 
 
5S 
 
 Mock Brawn 
 
 Boil a pair of neat’s feet very tender : take the 
 meat off, and have ready the belly-piece of pork, 
 salted with common salt and saltpetre for a week.— 
 Boil this almost enough : take out the bones, and roll 
 the feet and the pork together. Then roll it very 
 tight with a strong cloth and coarse tape. Boil it till 
 very tender, then hang it up in the cloth till cold, af¬ 
 ter which keep it in a sousing liquor, as is directed 
 in the next article. 
 
 Souse for Brawn , and for Pig's Feet and Ears. 
 
 Boil a quarter of a peck of wheat-bran, a sprig of 
 bay, and a sprig of rosemary, in two gallons of wa¬ 
 ter, with four ounces of salt in it, for half an hour. 
 Strain it, and let it get cold. 
 
 To make Black Puddings. 
 
 The blood must be stirred with salt till cold. Put 
 a quart of it, or rather more, to a quart of whole 
 grits, to soak one night, and soak the crumb of a 
 quartern loaf in rather m$-e than two quarts of new 
 milk made hot. In the mean time prepare the guts 
 by washing, turning and scraping with salt and water, 
 and changing the water several times. Chop fine a 
 little winter-savoury and thyme, a good quantity of 
 penny-royal, pepper and salt, a few cloves, some 
 alspice, ginger, and nutmeg, mix these with three 
 pounds of beef-suet, and six eggs well beaten and 
 strained: and then beat bread, grits, & c. all up with 
 the seasoning ; when well mixed, have ready some 
 hog’s fat cut into large bits, and as you fill the skins, 
 put it in at proper distances. Tie in links ouly half 
 filled ; and boil in a large kettle, pricking them as 
 they swell, or they will burst. When boiled, lay 
 them between clean cloths till cold, and hang them 
 up in the kitchen. When to be used, scald them a 
 
59 
 
 few minutes in water, wipe, and put them into e 
 Dutch oven. 
 
 If there are not skins enough, put the stuffing in¬ 
 to basins, and boil it covered with flour cloths ; and 
 slice and fry it when used. 
 
 Another way .—Boil a quart of half-grits in as much 
 milk as will swell them to the utmost: then drain 
 them and add a quart of blood, a pint of rich cream, 
 a pound of suet, some mace, nutmeg, alspice, and 
 four cloves, all in one powder ; two pounds of the 
 hog’s leaf cut into dice, two leeks, a handful of pars¬ 
 ley, ten leaves of sage, a large handful of penny¬ 
 royal, a sprig of thyme and knotted marjoram, all 
 minced fine ; eight eggs well beaten, half a pound 
 of bread crumbs that have been scalded, wdth a pint 
 of milk, pepper, and salt. Half fill the skins ; which 
 must be cleaned with the greatest care, turned se¬ 
 veral times, and soaked in several waters, and last in 
 rosewater. Tie the skins in links, boil and prick them 
 with a clean fork, to prevcut their bursting. Cover 
 them with a clean cloth till cold. 
 
 White Hog's Puddings. 
 
 When the skins have been soaked and cleaned as 
 before directed, rinse and soak them all night in rose¬ 
 water, and put into them the following fillings ; mix 
 half a pound of blanched almonds cut into seven or 
 eight bits, with a pound of grated bread, two pounds 
 of marrow or suet, a pound of currants, some beaten 
 cinnamon, cloves, mace, and nutmeg, a quart of 
 cream, the yolks of six and white of two eggs, a lit¬ 
 tle orange-flower water, alittle fine Lisbon sugar, and 
 lemon-peel and citron sliced, and half fill the skins. 
 To know whether sweet enough, warm a little in a 
 panikin. In boiling, much care must he taken to 
 prevent the puddings from bursting. Prick the)Q$ 
 
CO 
 
 with a small fork as they rise, and boil them in milk 
 and water. Lay them in a table-cloth till cold. 
 
 Hog's Lard 
 
 Should be carefully melted in ajar, put into a kettle 
 of water and boiled ; run it into bladders that have 
 been extremely well cleaned. The smaller they are 
 the better *he lard keeps, as, after the air reaches . 
 it, it becomes rank. Put in a sprig of rosemary 
 when melting. 
 
 MUTTON 
 
 Observations on cutting and dressing Mutton. 
 
 Take away the pipe that runs along the bone of 
 the inside of a chine of mutton ; and it to be kept a 
 great time, rub the part close round the tail with 
 salt, after first cutting out the kernel 
 
 Every kernel should be taken out of all sorts of 
 meat as soon as brought in : then wipe dry. 
 
 For roasting, it should hang as long as it will keep, 
 the hind quarter especially, but not so long as to taint ; 
 for whatever fashion may authorize, putrid juices 
 ought not to be taken into the stomach. 
 
 Leg of Mutton. 
 
 If roasted, serve with onion or currant-jelly sauce, 
 if boiled, with caper-sauce and vegetables. 
 
 Neck of Mutton 
 
 Is particularly useful, as so many dishes may be 
 made of it ; but it is not advantageous for the family. 
 The bones should be cut short, which the butchers 
 will not do unless particularly desired. 
 
 The best end of the neck may be boiled, and serv- 
 ed with turnips, or roasted, or dressed in steaks, in 
 pies, or harrico. 
 
 The scrags may be stewed in broth ; or with a 
 small quantity of water, some small onions, a few 
 
61 
 
 peppercorns, and a little rice, and served together. 
 When a neck is to be boiled to look particularly 
 nice, saw down the chine-bone, strip the ribs half¬ 
 way down, and chop off the ends of the bones about 
 four inches. The skin should not be taken off till boil¬ 
 ed, and then the fat will look the whiter. 
 
 To dress Haunch of Mutton. 
 
 Keep it as long as it can be preserved sweet by 
 the different modes ; let it be washed with warm 
 milk and water, or vinegar, if necessary ; but when 
 to be dressed, observe to wash it well lest the out¬ 
 side should have a bad flavour from keeping. Put 
 a paste of coarse flour or strong paper, and fold the 
 haunch in ; set it a great distance from the fire, and 
 allow a proportionable time for the paste ; do not 
 take it off till about thirty-five or forty minutes be¬ 
 fore serving, and then baste it continually. Bring 
 the haunch nearer to the fire before you take off 
 the paste, and froth it up as you would venison. 
 
 A gravy must be made of a pound and a half of 
 loin of old mutton, simmered in a pint of water to 
 half, and no seasoning but salt; brown it with a lit¬ 
 tle burnt sugar, and send it up in the dish ; but there 
 should be a good deal of gravy in the meat, for 
 though long at the fire, the distance and covering 
 will prevent its roasting out.—Serve with currant- 
 jelly sauce. 
 
 To roast a saddle of Mutton. 
 
 Let it be well kept first. Raise the skin, and 
 then skewer it on again ; take it off a quarter of an 
 hour before serving, sprinkle it with some salt, 
 baste it, and dredge it well with flour. The rump 
 should be split, and skewered back on each side. 
 The joint may be large or small according to the 
 
 6 
 
Q2 
 
 company ; it is the most elegant if the latter. Be¬ 
 ing broad, it requires a high and strong fire. 
 
 Fillet of Mutton braised. 
 
 Take off the chump end of the loin, butter some 
 paper and put over it, and then paste as for venison ; 
 roast it two hours. Do not let it be the least brown. 
 Have ready some French beans boiled, and drained 
 on a sieve, and while the mutton is glazing, give 
 them one heat-up in gravy, and lay them on the 
 dish with the me*at over them. 
 
 Harrico. 
 
 Take off some of the fat, and cut the middle or 
 best end of the neck into rather thin steaks, flour 
 and fry them in their own fat of a fine light brown, 
 but not enough for eating. Then put them into a 
 dish while you fry the carrots, turnips, and onions, 
 the carrots and turnips in dice, the onions sliced, but 
 they must only be warmed, not browned, or you 
 need not fry them. Then lay the steaks at the 
 bottom of a stew-pan, the vegetables over them, 
 and pour as much boiling water as will cover them, 
 give one boil, skim well, and then set the pan on 
 the side of the fire to simmer gently till tender. In 
 three or four hours skim them, and add pepper, 
 salt, and a spoonful of catsup. 
 
 To hash Mutton. 
 
 Cut thin slices of dressed mutton, fat and lean; 
 flour them, have ready a little onion boiled in two or 
 three spoonfuls of water, add to it a little gravy, and 
 the meat seasoned, and make it hot, but not to boil. 
 Serve in a covered dish. Instead of onion, a clove, 
 a spoonful of currant jelly, and half a glass of port 
 wine, will give an agreeable flavour of venison, if 
 the meat be fine. Pickled cucumber, or walnut, 
 cut small, warm in it for change. 
 
63 
 
 To boil a Shoulder of Mutton with Oysters. 
 
 Hang it some days, then salt it well for two days, 
 hone it, and sprinkle it with pepper, and a bit of 
 mace pounded, lay some oysters over it, and roll 
 the meat up tight and tie it. Stew it in a small quan¬ 
 tity j-of water, with an onion and a few pepper-corns, 
 till quite tender. Have ready a little good gravy, 
 and some oysters stewed in it, thicken this with flour 
 and butter, and pour over the mutton when the tape 
 is taken oft The stew-pan should be keut close 
 covered. 
 
 Breast of Mutton. 
 
 Cut off the superfluous fat, and roast and serve the 
 meat with stewed cucumbers ; or to eat cold, cover¬ 
 ed with chopped parsley. Or half broil, and then 
 grill it before the fire ; in which case cover it with 
 crumbs and herbs, and serve with caper-sauce.— 
 Or if boned, take off a good deal of the fat, and co¬ 
 ver it with bread, herbs, and seasoning, then roll and 
 boil, and serve with chopped walnuts, or capers and 
 batter. 
 
 Loin of Mutton 
 
 Roasted ; if cut lengthways as a saddle some think 
 it cuts better. Or for steaks, pies, or broth 
 To roll Loin of Mutton. 
 
 Hang the mutton till tender ; bone it ; and lay a 
 seasoning of pepper, alspiee, mace, nutmeg, and a 
 few cloves, all in fine powder, over it. Next day 
 prepare a stuffing as for hare ; beat the meat, and 
 cover it with the stuffing ; roll it up tight, and tie it. 
 Half-bake it in a slow oven ; let ic grow cold ; take 
 off the fat, and put the gravy into a stew-pan; flour 
 the meat, and put it in likewise, stew it till almost 
 ready; and add a glass of port wine, some catsup, 
 an anchovy, and a little lemon pickle, half an hour 
 
64 
 
 before serving ; serve it in the gravy, and with jelly 
 sauce. A few fresh mushrooms are a great improve¬ 
 ment ; but if to eat like hare, do not use these, nor 
 the lemon pickle. 
 
 Mutton Ham. 
 
 Choose a fine-grained leg of wether mutton, of 
 twelve or fourteen pounds weight ; let it be cut ham- 
 shape, and hang two days. Then put into a stew- 
 pan half a pound of bay-salt, the same of common 
 salt, two ounces of saltpetre, and half a pound of 
 coarse sugar, all in powder ; mix, and make it quite 
 hot; then rub it well int* the ham. Let it be turn¬ 
 ed in the liquor everyday ; at *he end of four days 
 put two ounces more of common salt; in twelve 
 days take it out, dry it and hang it up in wood smoke 
 a week. It is to be used in slices, with stewed cab¬ 
 bage, mashed potatoes, or eggs. 
 
 Mutton Collops. 
 
 Take a loin of mutton that has been well hung ; 
 ond cut from the part next the leg, some collops very 
 thin. Take out the sinews. Season the collops 
 with salt, pepper, and mace ; and strew over them 
 shred parsley, thyme, and two or three shallots ; fry 
 them in butter till half done ; add half a pint of gra¬ 
 vy, a little juice of lemon, and a piece of butter rub¬ 
 bed in flour ; and simmer the whole very gently five 
 minutes. They should be served immediately, or 
 they will be bard. 
 
 Mutton Cutlets in the Portuguese way. 
 
 Cut the chops ; and half fry them with sliced 
 shallot or onion, chopped parsley, and two bay 
 leaves ; season with pepper and salt ; then lay a 
 forcemeat on a piece of white paper, put the chop 
 on it, and twist the paper up, leaving a hole for the 
 end of the bones to go through. Broil on a gentle 
 
65 
 
 fire. Serve with sauce Robart; or, as the season 
 ing makes the cutlets high, a little gravy. 
 
 Mutton Steaks 
 
 Should be cut from a loin or neck that has hung ; 
 if a neck, the bones should not be long. They 
 should be broiled on a clear fire, seasoned when half 
 done, and often turned ; take them up into a very hot 
 dish, rub a bit of butter on each, and serve hot and 
 hot the moment they are done. 
 
 Steaks of Mutton, or Lamb , and Cucumbers. 
 
 Quarter cucumbers, and lay them into a deep dish, 
 sprinkle them with salt, and pour vinegar over them. 
 Fry the chops of a fine brown, and put them into a 
 stew-pan ; drain the cucumbers, and put over the 
 steaks; add some sliced onions, pepper, and salt; 
 pour hot water or weak broth on them ; stew and 
 skim well. 
 
 Mutton Sausages. 
 
 Take a pound of the rawest part of the leg of 
 mutton that has been either roasted or boiled ; chop 
 it extremely small, and season it with pepper, salt, 
 mace, and nutmeg ; add to it six ounces of beef 
 suet, some sweet herbs, two anchovies, and a pint 
 of oysters ; all chopped very small; a quarter of a 
 pound of grated bread, some of the anchovy liquor, 
 and the yolks and whites of two eggs well beaten. 
 Put it all, when well mixed, into a little pot, and 
 use it by rolling it into balls of a sausage-shape and 
 frying. If approved, a little shallot may be added, 
 or garlic, which is a great improvement. 
 
 To dress Mutton Rumps and Kidnies. 
 
 Stew six rumps in some good mutton-gravy half 
 ao hour ; then take them up, and let them stand to 
 ctK*h Clear the gravy from the fat ; and put into it 
 " 6 * 
 
four ounces of boiled rice, an onion stuck with 
 cloves, and a blade of mace ; boil them till the rice 
 is thick. Wash the rumps with yolks of eggs well 
 beaten ; and strew over them crumbs of bread, a 
 little pepper and salt, chopped parsley and thyrne, 
 and grated lemon-peel. Fry in butter of a fine 
 brown. While the rumps are stewing, lard the 
 kidnies, and put them to roast in a Dutch oven. 
 When the rumps are fried, the grease must be 
 drained before they are put on the dish, and the 
 pan being cleared likewise from the fat, warm the 
 rice in it. Lay the latter on the dish ; the rumps 
 put round on the rice, the narrow ends towards the 
 middle, and the kidnies between. Garnish with 
 hard eggs cut in half, the white being left on ; or 
 with different coloured pickles. 
 
 An excellent Hotch-Potch. 
 
 Stew peas, lettuce, and onions, in a very little 
 water with a beef or ham bone. While these are 
 doing, fry some mutton or lamb steaks seasoned, of 
 a nice brown ; three quarters of an hour before din¬ 
 ner, put the steaks into . stew-pan, and the vegeta¬ 
 bles over them ; stew them, and serve altogether in 
 a tureen. 
 
 Mutton Kehohhed. 
 
 Take all the fat out of a loin of mutton, and that 
 on the outside also if too fat, and remove the skin. 
 Joint it at every bone ; mix a small nutmeg grated 
 with a little salt and pepper, crumbs, and herbs ; 
 dip the steaks into the yolks of three eggs, and 
 sprinkle the above mixture all over them. Then 
 place the steaks together as they were before they 
 were cut asunder, tie them and fasten them on a 
 small suit. Roast them at a quick fire ; set a dish 
 
under, and baste tliem with a good piece of butter 
 and the liquor that comes from the meat ; but throw 
 some more of the above seasoning over. When 
 done enough, take it up, and lay it in a dish ; and 
 put into it two spoonfuls of catsup, and rub down a 
 tea-spoonful of flour with it ; give this a boil, and 
 pour it over the mutton, but first skim off the fat 
 well. Mind to keep the meat hot till the gravy is 
 quite ready. 
 
 China Chilo. 
 
 Mince a pint-basin of undressed neck of mutton, 
 or leg, and some of the fat : put two onions, a let¬ 
 tuce, a pint of green peas, a tea-spoonful of salt, n 
 tea-spoonful of pepper, four spoonfuls of water, 
 and two or three ounces of clarified butter, into a 
 stew-pan closely covered : simmer two hours, and 
 serve in the middle of a dish of boiled dry rice. If 
 Cayenne is approved, add a little. 
 
 LAMB. 
 
 Leg oj Lamb 
 
 Should be boiled in a cloth, to look as white as pos¬ 
 sible. The loin fried in steaks and served round, 
 garnished with dried or fried parsley ; spinach to 
 eat with it; or dressed separately, or roasted. 
 
 Fore-quarter of Lamb . 
 
 Roast it either whole or in separate parts. If left 
 to be cold, chopped parsley should be sprinkled 
 over it. The neck and breast together are called a 
 scoven. 
 
 Breast of Lamb and Cucumbers. 
 
 Cut off the chine-bone fiom the breast and set it 
 on to stew with a pint of gravy. When the bones 
 would draw out, put it on the gridiron to grill ; and 
 then lay it in a dish on cucumbers nicely stewed. 
 
68 
 
 Lamb Steaks. 
 
 Pry them ofa beautiful brown ; when served throw 
 over them a good quantity oferumbs of bread fried, 
 and crimped parsley ; the receipt for doing which 
 of a tine colour will be given under the head of Ve¬ 
 getables. 
 
 Mutton or Iamb-steaks, seasoned and broiled in 
 buttered papers, either with crumbs and herbs, or 
 without, are a genteel dish and eat well. 
 
 Sauce for them, called sauce Robart, will be found 
 in the list of Sauces. 
 
 House-lamb Steaks , brown. 
 
 Season them with pepper, salt, nutmeg, grated 
 lemon-peel, and chopped parsley ; but dip them first 
 into egg ; fry them quick. Thicken some good gra¬ 
 vy with a bit of flour and butter ; and add to it a 
 spoonful of port wine, and some oysters : boil it up, 
 and then put in the steaks warm ; let them beat up 
 and serve. You may add palates, balls, or eggs, if 
 you like. 
 
 Lamb Cutlets with Spinach. 
 
 Cut the steaks from the loin, and fry them ; the 
 spinach is to be stewed and put into the dish first, 
 and then the cutlets round it. 
 
 Lamb's Head and Hinge. 
 
 This part is best from a house-lamb : but any, if 
 soaked in cold water, will be white. Boil the head 
 separately till very tender. Have ready the liver 
 and lights three parts boiled and cut small : stew 
 them in a little of the water in which they were 
 boiled, season and thicken with flour and butter, and 
 serve the mince round the head. 
 
 Lamb's Fry. 
 
 Serve it fried of a beautiful colour, and with a 
 jood deal of dried or fried parsley over. 
 
69 
 
 Lamb's Sweetbreads. 
 
 Blanch them, and put them a little while into cold 
 water. Then put them into a stew-pan, with a la¬ 
 dleful of broth, some pepper and salt, a small bunch 
 of small onions, and a bl de of mace : stir in it a bit 
 of butter and dour, and stew half an hour. Have 
 ready two or three eggs well beaten in cream, with 
 a little minced parsley and a few grates of nutmeg. 
 Put in some boiled asparagus-tops to the other things. 
 Do not let it boil after the cream is in ; but make it 
 hot, and stir it well ad the while. Take great 
 care it does not curdle. Young French beans or 
 peas may be added, first boiled of a beautiful colour. 
 
 Fricasseed Lamb-Stones. 
 
 Skin and wash, then dry and flour them ; fry of a 
 beautiful brown in hog’s lard. Lay them on a sieve 
 before the fire till you have made the following 
 sauce : Thicken almost half a pint of veal-gravy 
 with a bit of flour and butter, and then add to it a 
 slice of lemon, a large spoonful of mushroom catsup, 
 a tea-spoonful of lemon-pickle, a grate of nutmeg, 
 and the yolk of an egg beaten well in two large spoon¬ 
 fuls of thick cream. Put this over the fire, and 
 stir it well till it is hot, and looks white ; but do not 
 let it boil, or it will curdle. Then put in the fry, 
 and shake it about near the fire for a minute or two. 
 Serve in a very hot dish and cover. 
 
 Fricassee of Lamb-stones and Sweetbreads, another 
 
 way. 
 
 Have ready s.ome lamb-stones blanched, parboil¬ 
 ed, and sliced. Flour two or three sweetbreads; 
 if very thick, cut them in two. Fry all together, 
 with a few large oysters, of a fine yellow brown. 
 Pour the butter off; and add a pint of good gravy; 
 some asparagus-tops about ah inch long, a little nut 
 
70 
 
 meg, pepper, and salt, two shallots shred tine, and 
 a glass of white wine. Simmer ten minutes, then 
 put a little of the gravy to the yolks of three eggs 
 well beaten, and by degrees mix the whole. Turn 
 gravy back into the pan, and stir it till of a fine thick¬ 
 ness without boiling. Garnish with lemon. 
 
 A very nice dish. 
 
 Take the best end of the neck of lamb, cut it into 
 steaks, and chop each bone so short as to make the 
 steaks almost round. Egg, and strew with crumbs, 
 herbs, and seasoning : fry them of the finest brown, 
 mash some potatoes with a little butter and cream, 
 and put them into the middle of the dish raised high. 
 Then place the edge of one steak on another with 
 the small bone upward, all round the potatoes. 
 
 Directions for dressing Poultry and Game. 
 
 All poultry should be very carefully picked, eve- 
 ry plug removed, and the hair nicely singed. 
 
 The cook must be careful in drawing poultry of 
 all sorts, not to break the gall bag, for no washing 
 will take off the bitter where it has touched. 
 
 In dressing wild fowl, be careful to keep a clear 
 brisk fire. Let them be done of a fine yellow- 
 brown, but leave the gravy in : the fine flavour is 
 lost if done too much. 
 
 Tame fowls require more roasting, and are long¬ 
 er in heating through than others. All sorts should 
 be continually basted, that they may be served with 
 a froth and appear of a fine colour. 
 
 A large fowl will take three quarters of an hour j 
 a middling one half an hour, and a very small one or 
 a chicken, twenty minutes. The fire must be very 
 quick and clear before any fowls are put down. A 
 capon will take from half an hour to thirty-five mi- 
 
71 
 
 nutes, a goose an hour, wild ducks a quarter of an 
 hour, pheasants twenty minutes, a small turkey 
 stuffed, an hour and a quarter, turkey-poults, twen¬ 
 ty minutes, grouse a quarter of an hour, quails, ten 
 minutes, and partridges from twenty to twenty-five 
 minutes. 
 
 Pigs and geese require a brisk fire, and quick 
 turning. Rabbits must be well attended to, and the 
 extremities brought to the quick part ot the fire, to 
 be done equally with the backs. 
 
 POULTRY 
 
 To boil Turkey. 
 
 Make a stuffing of bread, herbs, salt, pepper, nut¬ 
 meg, lemon-peel, a few oysters or an anchovy, a bit 
 of butter, some suet and an egg : put this into the 
 crop, fasten up the skin, and boil the turkey in a 
 floured cloth to make it very white. Have ready a 
 fine oyster sauce made rich with butter, a little 
 cream, and a spoonful of soy, if approved, and pour 
 it over the bird ; or liver and lemon sauce. Hen- 
 birds are best for broiling, and should be young. 
 
 To roast Turkey. 
 
 The sinews of the leg should be drawn, which¬ 
 ever way it is dressed. The head should be twist¬ 
 ed under the wing: and in drawing it, take care not 
 to tear the liver, nor let the gall touch it. 
 
 Put a stuffing of sausage-meat; or if sausages are 
 to be served in the dish, a bread stuffing. As this 
 makes a large addition to the size of the bird, ob¬ 
 serve that the heat of the fire is constantly to that 
 part; for the breast is often not done enough. A 
 little strip of paper should be put on the bone, to 
 hinder it from scorching while the other parts roast. 
 Bast$ well and froth it up. Serve with gravy in the 
 
? 2 
 
 dish, and plenty of bread-sauce in a sauce-tureerr* 
 Add a few crumbs and a beaten egg, to the stuffing 
 of sausage-meat. 
 
 Pulled Turkey. 
 
 Divide the meat of the breast by pulling instead 
 of cutting ; then warm it in a spoonf ul or two of 
 white gravy, and a little cream, grated nutmeg, salt, 
 and a little flour and butter ; do not boil it. The 
 leg should be seasoned, scored, and broiled, and put 
 into the dish with the above round it. Cold chicken 
 does as well. 
 
 To boll Fowl. 
 
 For boiling, choose those that are not black-leg¬ 
 ged. Pick them nicely, singe, wash, and truss them. 
 Flour them and put them into boiling water. Serve 
 with parsley and butter, oyster, lemon, liver, or 
 celery sauce. If for dinner, ham, tongue or bacon, 
 is usually served to eat with them ; as likewise 
 greens. 
 
 To boil Fowl with Rice. 
 
 Stew the fowl very slowly in some clear mutton- 
 broth well skimmed ; and seasoned with onion, 
 mace, pepper, and salt. About halfan hour before 
 it is ready, putin a quarter of a pint of rice well 
 washed and soaked. Simmer till tender ; then strain 
 it from the broth, and .put the rice on a seive before 
 the fire. Keep the fowl hot, lay it in the middle of 
 the dish, and the rice around it without the broth. 
 The broth will be very nice to eat as such ; but the 
 less liquor the fowl is done with the better. Gravy, 
 or parsley and butter, for sauce. 
 
 Fowh roasted. 
 
 Serve with egg-sauce, bread-sauce, or garnished 
 with sausages or scalded parsley. 
 
 \ large barn-door fowl, well hung, should be stuf- 
 
fed in the crop with sausage-meat; and served with 
 gravy in the dish, and with bread-sauce. The head 
 should be turned under the wing as a turkey. 
 
 Fowl broiled. 
 
 Split them down the back ; pepper, salt, and 
 broil. Serve with mushroom-sauce. 
 
 Davenport Fowls. 
 
 Hang young fowls a night; take the livers, hearts, 
 and tenderest parts of the gizzards, shred very small, 
 with half a handful of young clary, an anchovy to 
 each fowl, an onion, and the yolks of four eggs boil¬ 
 ed hard, with pepper, salt, and mace to your taste. 
 Stuff the fowls with this, and sew up the vents and 
 necks quite close, that the water may not get in. 
 Boil them in salt and water till almost done: then 
 drain them and put them into a stew r -pan with but¬ 
 ter enough to brown them. Serve them with fine 
 melted butter, and a spoonful of catsup, of either 
 sort, in the dish. 
 
 A nice way to dress Fowl for a small Dish. 
 
 Bone-singe, and wash a young fowl ; make a 
 forcemeat of four ounces of veal, two ounces of scra¬ 
 ped lean of ham, two ounces of fit bacon, two hard 
 yolks of eggs, a few sweet herbs chopped, two oun¬ 
 ces of beef-suet, a tea-spoonful of lemon-peel minced 
 quite fine, an anchovy, salt, pepper, and a very lit¬ 
 tle Cayenne. Beat all in a mortar, with a tea-cupful 
 of crumbs, and the yolks and whites of three eggs. 
 Stuff the inside of the fowl, and draw the legs and 
 wings inwards ; tie the neck and rump close. Stew 
 the fowl in a white gravy ; when it is done through 
 and tender, add a large cupful of cream, and a bit 
 of butter and flour : and give it one boil, and serve $ 
 the last thing add the squeeze of lemon. 
 
 7 
 
74 
 
 Fricassee of Chickens. 
 
 Boil rather more than half, in a small quantity of 
 water : let them cool, then cut up, and put to sim¬ 
 mer in a little gravy made of the liquor they are 
 boiled in, and a bit of veal or mutton, onion, mace, 
 and lemon-peel, some white pepper, and a bunch of 
 sweet herbs. When quite tender, keep them hot 
 while you thicken the sauce in the following man¬ 
 ner : strain it oft', and put it back into the sauce-pan 
 with a little salt, a scrape of nutmeg, and a bit of 
 flour and butter ; give it one boil ; and when you 
 are going to serve, beat up the yolk of an egg, and 
 add half a pint of cream, and stir them over the fire; 
 but do not let it boil. It will be quite as good with¬ 
 out the egg. 
 
 The gravy may be made (without any other meat) 
 of the necks, feet, small wing-bones, gizzards, and 
 livers ; which are called the trimmings of the fowl. 
 
 To pull Chickens. 
 
 Take off the skin, and pull the flesh off the bone 
 of a cold fowl in as large pieces as you can : dredge 
 it with flour, and fry it of a nice brown in butter. 
 Drain the butter from it; and them simmer the flesh 
 in a good gravy well seasoned, and thickened with a 
 little flour and butter. Add the juice of half a 
 lemon. 
 
 Chicken Currie. 
 
 Cut up the chickens raw 7 , slice onions, and fry 
 both in butter with great care, of a fine light brown, 
 or if you use chickens that have been dressed, fry 
 only the onions. Lay the joints, cut into two or 
 three pieces each, into a stew-pan, with a veal or 
 mutton gravy, and a clove or two of garlic. Simmer 
 till the chicken is quite tender. Half an hour be¬ 
 fore you' serve it, rub smooth a spoonful or twb of 
 
75 
 
 currie powder, a spoonful of flour, and an ounce or 
 butter ; and add this, with four large spoonfuls of 
 cream, to the stew. Salt to your taste. When serv¬ 
 ing, squeeze in a little lemon. 
 
 Slices of under-done veal, or rabbit, turkey, &c, 
 make excellent currie. 
 
 Ducks roasted. 
 
 Serve with a fine gravy : and stuff one with sage 
 and onion, a dessert-spoonful of crumbs, a bit of 
 butter, and pepper and salt, let the other be unsea¬ 
 soned. 
 
 To boil Ducks. 
 
 Choose a fine fat duck ; salt it two days, then 
 boil it slowly in a cloth. Serve it with onion-sauce, 
 but melt the butter with milk instead of water. 
 
 To stew Duck. 
 
 Half roast a duck ; put it into a stew-pan with 
 a pint of beef-gravy, a few leaves of sage and mint 
 cut small, pepper and salt, and a small bit of onion 
 shred as fine as possible. Simmer a quarter of an 
 hour, and skim clean; then add near a quart ot 
 green peas. Cover close, and simmer near half an 
 hour longer. Put in a piece of butter and a little 
 Hour, and give it one boil ; then serve in one dish. 
 
 To roast Goose. 
 
 After it is picked, the plugs of the feathers pulled 
 out and the hairs carefully singed, let it be well 
 washed and dried, and a seasoning put in of onion, 
 sage, and pepper and salt. Fasten it tight at the 
 neck and the rump, and then roast. Put it first at 
 a distance from the fire and by degrees draw it 
 nearer. A slip of paper should be skewered on 
 the breast-bone. Baste it very well. When the 
 breast is rising, take off the paper ; and be careful 
 
76 
 
 to serve it before the breast falls, or it will be spoil, 
 ed by coming flatted to table. Let a good gravy 
 be sent in the dish. 
 
 Gravy and apple-sauce : goosberry-sauce for a 
 green goose. 
 
 To stew Giblets. 
 
 Do them as will be directed for giblet-pie, (under 
 the head Pies ;) season them with salt and pepper, 
 and a very small piece of mace. Before serving, 
 give them one boil with a cup of cream, and a piece 
 of butter rubbed in a tea-spoonful of flour. 
 
 Pigeons 
 
 May be dressed in so many ways, that they are 
 very useful. The good flavour of them depends 
 very much on their being cropped and drawn as 
 soon as killed.—No other bird requires so much 
 washing. 
 
 To stew pigeons. 
 
 Take care that they are quite fresh, and carefully 
 chopped, drawn, and washed ; then soak them half 
 an hour. In the mean time cut a hard white cab¬ 
 bage in slices (as if for pickling) into water; drain 
 it, and then boil it in milk and water: drain it 
 again, and lay some of it at the bottom of a stew- 
 pan. Put the pigeons upon it, but first season them 
 well with pepper and salt ; and cover them with 
 the remainder of the cabbage. Add a little broth, 
 and stew gently till the pigeons are tender : ther 
 put among them two or three spoonfuls of cream, 
 and a piece of butter and flour, for thickening. 
 After a boil or two, serve the birds in the middle, 
 and the cabbage placed round them. 
 
 To broil Pigeons. 
 
 After cleaning, split the backs, pepper and salt 
 ‘hem, and broil them very nicely ; pour over them 
 
77 
 
 either stewed or pickled mushrooms in melted but¬ 
 ter, and serve as hot as possible. 
 
 Roast Pigeons 
 
 Should be stuffed with parsley, either cut or 
 whole, and seasoned within. Serve with paisley 
 and butter. Peas or asparagus should be dressed 
 to eat with them. 
 
 Pigeons in Jelly. 
 
 Save some of the liquor in which a knuckle of 
 veal has been boiled, or boil a calf’s or neat’s foot, 
 put the broth into a pan with a blade of mace, a 
 bunch of sweet herbs, some white pepper, lemon 
 peel, a slice of lean bacon, and the pigeons. Bake 
 them and let them stand to be cold. Season them 
 as you like, before baking. When done, take 
 them out of the liquor, cover them close to pre¬ 
 serve the colour, and clear the jelly by boiling with 
 the whites of two eggs ; then strain it through a 
 thick cloth dipped in boiling water, and put into a 
 sieve. The fat must be perfectly removed, before 
 it be cleared. Put the jelly over and round them 
 rough. 
 
 Larks and other small birds. 
 
 Draw and spit them on a bird-spit; tie this on 
 another spit, and roast them. Baste gently with 
 butter, and strew bread-crumbs upon them till half 
 done : brown and serve with fried crumbs round. 
 GAME, &c. 
 
 To keep Game, 4*c. 
 
 Game ought not to be thrown away even when it 
 has been kept a very long time ; for when it seems 
 to be spoiled, it may often be made lit for eating, by 
 nicely cleaning it, and washing with vinegar and wa¬ 
 ter. If there is danger of birds not keeping, draw, 
 crop, and pick them ; then wash in two or three 
 
 7 * 
 
78 
 
 waters, and rub them with salt. Have ready a large 
 saucepan of boiling water, and plunge them into it 
 one by one, drawing them up and down by the leg®, 
 that the water may pass through them. Let them 
 stay live or six minutes in ; then hang them up in a 
 cold place. When drained pepper and salt the in¬ 
 sides well. Before roasting, wash them well. 
 
 The most delicate birds, even grouse, may be 
 preserved thus. Those that live by suction cannot 
 be done this way, as they are never drawn ; and 
 perhaps the heat might make them worse, as the 
 water could not pass through them, but they bear 
 being high. Lumps of charcoal put about birds and 
 meat will preserve them from taint, and restore 
 what is spoiling. 
 
 Pheasants and Partridges. 
 
 Roast them as turkey, and serve with a fine gravy 
 (into which put a very small bit of garlic,) and 
 bread-sauce. When cold, they may be made into 
 excellent patties, but their flavour should not be 
 overpowered by lemon. 
 
 A very cheap way of potting Birds. 
 
 When baked and-grown cold, cut them into pro¬ 
 per pieces for helping, pack them close into a large 
 potting pan, and (if possible,) leave no spaces to re¬ 
 ceive the butter Cover them with butter, and 
 one third part less will be wanted than when the 
 birds are done whole. The butter that has covered 
 potted things will serve for basting, or for paste or 
 meat pies. 
 
 To clarify Butter for potted things. 
 
 Put it into a sauce boat, and set that over the tire 
 in a stew-pan that has a little water in. When melt¬ 
 ed, take care not to pour the milky parts over the? 
 the potted things ; they will sink to the bottom. 
 
79 
 
 To pot Moor Game. 
 
 Pick, singe, and wash the birds nicely : then dry 
 them : and season, inside and out, pretty high, with 
 pepper, mace, nutmeg, alspice, and salt. Pack 
 them in as small a pot as will hold them, cover them 
 with butter, and bake in a very slow oven. When 
 cold take off the butter, dry them from the gravy, 
 and put one bird into each pot, which should just 
 fit. Add as much more butter as will cover them, 
 but take care that it does not oil. The best way to 
 melt it is, by warm.ag it in a basin set in a bowl of 
 hot water. 
 
 Grouse. 
 
 Roast them like fowls, but the head is to be 
 twisted under the wing. They must not be over¬ 
 done. Serve with a rich gravy in the dish, and 
 bread-sauce. The sauce for wild fowl, as will be 
 described hereafter under the head of Sauces, may 
 be used instead of common gravy. 
 
 To Roast Wild Fowl. 
 
 The flavour is best preserved without stuffing. 
 Put pepper, salt, and a piece of butter into each. 
 
 Wild fowl require much less dressing than tame : 
 they should be served of a fine colour, and well 
 frothed up. A rich brown gravy should be sent in 
 the dish : and when the breast is cut into slices, be¬ 
 fore taking off the bone, a squeeze of lemon, with 
 pepper and salt, is a great improvement to the fla¬ 
 vour. 
 
 To take off the fishy taste which wild fowl some-’ 
 times have, put an onion, salt, and hot water into the. 
 dripping pan, and baste them for the first ten mi¬ 
 nutes with this ; then take away the pan, and baste 
 Constantly with butter. 
 
80 
 
 Wild Ducks, Teal, Widgeon, Dun-birds } 4’C. 
 
 Should be taken up with the gravy in. Baste 
 them with butter, and sprinkle a little salt before 
 they are taken up, put a good gravy upon them, and 
 serve with shallot sauce, in a boat. 
 
 Woodcocks, Snipes, and Quails, 
 
 Keep good several days. Roast them without 
 drawing, and serve on toast. Butter only should 
 be eaten with them, as gravy takes off the fine fla¬ 
 vour. The thigh and back are esteemed the most. 
 
 Ruff's and Ree :■ 
 
 Are skewered as quails ; put baro of bacon over 
 them, and roast them about ten minutes. Serve 
 with a good gravy in the dish. 
 
 To dress Plovers. 
 
 Roast the green ones in the same way as wood¬ 
 cocks and quails, (see above,) without drawing; 
 and serve on a toast. Gray plovers may be either 
 roasted, or stewed with gravy, herbs, and spice. 
 
 Plover's Eggs 
 
 Are a nice and fashionable dish. Boil them ten 
 minutes, and serve either hot or cold on a napkin. 
 
 To roast Ortolans. 
 
 Pick and singe, but do not draw them. Tie on a 
 bird-spit, and roast them. Some persons like bacon 
 in slices tied between them, but the taste of it spoils 
 the flavour of the ortolan. Cover them with crumbs 
 of bread. 
 
 Guinea and Pea Fowl 
 
 Eat much like pheasants. Dress then in the 
 same way. 
 
 Rabbits 
 
 May be eaten various ways, as follow : 
 
 Roasted with stuffing and gravy, or without stuf- 
 
81 
 
 ting ; with sauce of the liver and parsley chopped 
 in melted butter, pepper, and salt ; or larded. 
 
 Boiled and smothered with onion-sauce : the but¬ 
 ter to be melted with milk instead of water. 
 
 Fried in joints, with dried or fried parsley. The 
 game liver-sauce, this way also. 
 
 Fricasseed, as before directed, for chickens. 
 
 In a pie, as chickens, with forcemeat, &c. In 
 this way they are excellent when young. 
 
 Potted. 
 
 To pot Rabbits. 
 
 Cut up two or three youn-; but full-grown ones, 
 and take the leg bones off at the thigh ; pack them 
 a9 closely as possibly in a small pan, after seasoning 
 them with pepper, mace, Cayenne, salt, and alspice, 
 all in very fine powder. Make the top as smooth 
 as you can. Keep out the heads and the carcasses, 
 but take off the meat about the neck. Put a good 
 deal of butter and bake the whole gently. Keep it 
 two days in the pan ; then shift it into small pots, 
 adding butter. The livers also should be added, as. 
 they eat well. 
 
 SOUPS AND GRAVIES. 
 
 General directions respecting Soups and Gravies . 
 
 When there i9 any fear of gravy-meat being spoil¬ 
 ed before it be wanted, season well, and fry it light¬ 
 ly, which will preserve it two days longer ; but the 
 gravy is best when the juices are fresh. 
 
 When soups or gravies are to be put by, let them 
 be changed every day into fresh scalded pans. 
 Whatever has vegetables boiled in it, is apt to turn 
 sour sooner than the juices of meat. Never keep 
 any gravy, &c. in metal. 
 
82 
 
 When fat remains on any soup, a tea-cupful of 
 flour and water mixed quite smooth, and boiled in, 
 will take it off. 
 
 If richness or greater consistency, be wanted, a 
 good lump of butter mixed with flour, and boiled in 
 the soup, will give either of these qualities. 
 
 Long boiling is necessary to give the full flavour 
 of the ingredients, therefore time should be allowed 
 for soups and gravies ; and they are best if made the 
 day before they are wanted. 
 
 Soups and gravies are far better when the meat is 
 put at the bottom of the pan, and stewed, and the 
 herbs, roots, &c. with butter, than when water is 
 put to the meat at first ; and the gravy that is drawn 
 from the meat should be almost dried up before the 
 water is put to it. Do not use the sediment of gra-* 
 vies, &c. that have stood to be cold. When onions 
 are strong, boil a turnip with them, if for sauce : 
 this will make them mild. 
 
 If soups or gravies are too weak, do not cover 
 them in boiling, that the watery particles may eva¬ 
 porate. 
 
 A clear jelly of Cow-heels is very useful to keep 
 in the house, being a great improvement to soups 
 and gravies. 
 
 SOUPS, ETC. 
 
 Scotch Mutton Broth. 
 
 Soak a neck of mutton in water for an hour ; cut 
 off the scrag, and put it into a stew-pan with two 
 quarts of water. As soon as it boils, skim it well, 
 and then simmer it an hour and a half ; then take 
 the best end of the mutton, cut it into pieces, two 
 bones in each, take some of the fat off, and put 
 as many as you think proper: skim the moment 
 
83 
 
 ment the fresh meat boils up, and every quarter of 
 an hour afterwards. Have ready four or five car¬ 
 rots, the same number of turnips, and three onions, 
 all cut, but not small ; and put them in soon enough 
 to get quite tender ; add four large spoonfuls of 
 Scotch barley, first wetted with cold water. The 
 meat should stew three hours. Salt to taste, and 
 serve all together. Twenty minutes before serving, 
 put in some chopped parsley. 
 
 Veal Broth. 
 
 Stew a small knuckle in about three‘quarts of 
 water, two ounces of rice, a little salt, and a blade 
 of mace, till the liquor is half wasted away. 
 
 Colouring for Soups or Gravies. 
 
 Put four ounces of lump-sugar, a gill of water, 
 and half an ounce of the finest butter, into a small 
 tosser, and set it over a gentle fire. Stir it with a 
 wooden spoon, till of a bright brown. Then add 
 half a pint of water ; boil, skim, and when cold, bot¬ 
 tle and cork it close. Add to soup or gravy as much 
 of this as will give a proper colour. 
 
 A clear brown Stock for Gravy-Soup, or Gravy. 
 
 Put a knuckle of veal, a pound of lean beef, and a 
 pound of the lean of a gammon of bacon, all sliced, 
 into a stew-pan with two or three scraped carrots, 
 two onions, two turnips, two heads of celery sliced, 
 and two quarts of water. Stew the meat quite ten¬ 
 der, but do not let it brown. When thus prepared, 
 it will serve either for soup, or brown or white 
 gravy: if for brown gravy, put some of the above 
 colouring, and boil a few minutes. 
 
 An excellent white Soup. 
 
 Take a scrag of mutton, a knuckle of veal, after 
 cutting off as much meat as will make collops, two 
 
84 
 
 or three shank bones of mutton nicely cleaned, and 
 a quarter of a pound of very fine undressed lean 
 gammon of bacon : with a bunch of sweet herbs, a 
 piece of fresh lemon-peel, two or three onions, 
 three blades of mace, and a dessert-spoonful of white 
 pepper ; boil all in three quarts of water, till the 
 meat fall quite to pieces. Next day take off the fat, 
 clear the jelly from the sediment, and put it into a 
 saucepan ofthe nicest tin. if macaroni is used, it 
 should be added soon enough to get perfectly tender, 
 after soaking in cold water. Vermicelli may be ad¬ 
 ded after the thickening, as it requires less time to 
 do. Have ready the thickening which is to be made 
 as follows : 
 
 Blanch a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, and 
 beat them to a paste in a marble mortar, with a 
 spoonful of water to prevent their oiling ; mince a 
 large slice of dressed veal or chicken, and beat it 
 with a piece of stale white bread ; to all this add a 
 pint of thick cream, a bit of fresh lemon-peel, and 
 blade of mace, in the finest powder. Boil it a few 
 minutes ; add to it a pint of soup, and strain and 
 pulp it through a coarse sieve : this thickening is 
 then fit for putting to the rest, which should boil for 
 half an hour afterwards. ^ 
 
 A plainer white Soup. 
 
 Two or three pints of soup may be made of a 
 small knuckle of veal, with seasoning as directed in 
 the last article ; and both served together, with the 
 addition of a quarter of a pint of good milk. Tw« 
 spoonfuls of cream, and a little ground rice, will 
 give it a proper thickness. 
 
 Giblet Soup 
 
 Scald and clean three or four sets of goose OT 
 duck giblets ; set them to stew, with a pound ol 
 
gravy-beef’, scrag of mutton, or the bone of a knuc 
 kle of veal; an ox-tail, or some shanks of mutton , 
 with three onions, a large bunch of sweet herbs, a 
 tea-spoonful of white pepper, and a large spoonful 
 of salt. Put five pints of water, and simmer till the 
 gizzards, (which must be each in four pieces,) are 
 quite tender : skim nicely, and add a quarter of a 
 pint of cream, two tea-spoonfuls of mushroom pow¬ 
 der, and an ounce of butter mixed with a dessert¬ 
 spoonful of flour. Let it boil a few minutes, and 
 serve with the giblets. It may be seasoned, instead 
 of cream, with two glasses of sherry or Madeira, a 
 large spoonful of catsup, and some Cayenne. When 
 in the tureen, add salt. 
 
 Macaroni Soup. 
 
 Boil a pound of the best macaroni in a quart of 
 good stock till quite tender ; then take out half, and 
 put it into another stew-pot. To the remainder 
 add some more stock, and boil it till you can pulp 
 all the macaroni through a fine sieve. Then add 
 together that, the two liquors, a pint or more of 
 cream, boiling hot, the macaroni that was first taken 
 out, and half a pound of grated Parmesan cheese ; 
 make it hot, but do not let it boil. Serve it with the 
 crust of a French roll cut into the size of a shilling. 
 
 Old Peas Soup. 
 
 Save the water of boiling pork or beef; and if 
 too salt, put as much fresh water to it; or use fresh 
 water entirely, with roast beef bones, a ham or gam¬ 
 mon-bone, or an anchovy or two Simmer these 
 with some good whole or split peas ; the smaller 
 the quantity of water at first, the better. Simmer 
 till the peas will pulp through a culander: then 
 set the pulp, and more of the liquor that boded 
 
 * O 
 
86 
 
 the peas, with two carrots ; a turnip, a leek, and a 
 stick of celery cut into bits, to stew till all is quite 
 tender. The last requires less time ; an hour will 
 do for it. 
 
 When ready, put fried bread cut into dice, dried 
 mint rubbed tine, pepper, and (if wanted) salt, into 
 the tureen. 
 
 Green Peas Soup. 
 
 In shelling the peas divide the old from the 
 young ; put the old ones with an ounce of butter, a 
 pint of water, the outside leaves of a lettuce or two, 
 two onions, pepper and salt, to stew till you can 
 pulp the peas and when you have done so, put to 
 the liquor that stewed them some more water, 
 hearts and tender stalks of the the lettuces, the 
 young peas, a handful of spinach cut small, and salt, 
 and pepper to relish properly, and stew till quite 
 soft. If the soup is too thin, or not rich enough, 
 either of these faults may be removed by adding an 
 ounce or two of butter, mixed with a spoonful of 
 rice or wheat-flour, and boil with it half an hour. 
 Before serving, boil some green mint shred fine iu 
 the soup. 
 
 When there is plenty of vegetables, no meat is 
 necessary ; but if meat be preferred, a pig’s foot 
 or ham-bone may be boiled with the old peas, which 
 is called the stock. More butter than is mention¬ 
 ed above may be used with advantage, if the soup 
 is required to be very rich. 
 
 When peas first come in, or are very young, 
 the stock may be made of the shells washed, and 
 boiled till they will pulp with the above; more 
 thickening will then be wanted. 
 
 Gravy Soups. 
 
 Wash and soak a leg of beef: break the bone and 
 
8 ? 
 
 set it on fire with a gallon of water, a large bunch 
 of sweet herbs, two large onions sliced and fried a 
 fine brown, (but not burnt,) two blades of mace, 
 three cloves, twenty berries of alspice, and forty 
 black peppers. Stew till the soup is as rich as you 
 choose ; then take out the meat, which will be fit 
 for the servants’ table with a little of the gravy. 
 Next day take off the cake of fat ; which will serve 
 for basting, or for common pie-crust. Have ready 
 such vegetables as you choose to serve. Cut car¬ 
 rots, turnips, and celery, small; and simmer till 
 tender : some people do not like them to be sent to 
 table, only the flavour of them.—Boil vermicelli a 
 quarter of an hour ; and add to it a large spoonful 
 of soy and one of mushroom catsup. A French 
 roll should be made hot, put into the soup till moist 
 through, and served in the tureen. 
 
 Carrot Soup. 
 
 Put some beef-bones, with four quarts of the li¬ 
 quor in which a leg of mutton or beef has been boil¬ 
 ed, two large onions, a turnip, pepper, and salt, into 
 a sauce-pan, and stew for three hours. Have ready 
 six large carrots scraped and cut thin : strain the 
 soup on them, and stew them till soft enough to 
 pulp through a hair sieve or coarse cloth : then boil 
 the pulp with the soup, which is to be as thick as 
 peas-soup. Use two woode-n spoons to rub the car¬ 
 rots through. Make the soup the day before it is to 
 be used. Add Cayenne. Pulp only the red part of 
 the carrot, and not the yellow. 
 
 Onion Soup. 
 
 Into the water that has boiled a leg or neck of 
 mutton, put carrots, turnips, and (if you have one) 
 a shank-bone and simmer two hours. Strain it on 
 six onions, first sliced and fried of a light brown ; 
 
88 
 
 simmer three hours, skim it carefully, and serve. 
 Put into it a little roll, or fried bread. 
 
 Spinach Soup. 
 
 Shred two handfuls of spinach, a turnip, two 
 onions, a head of celery, two carrots, and a little 
 thyme and parsley. Put all into a stew-pot, with a 
 bit of butter the size of a walnut, and a pint of broth, 
 or the water in which meat has been boiled ; stew 
 till the vegetables are quite tender; work them 
 through a coarse cloth or sieve with a spoon ; then 
 to the pulp of the vegetables, and liquor, put a quart 
 of fresh water, pepper, and salt, and boil all together. 
 Have ready some suet dumplings the size of a wal¬ 
 nut ; and before you put the soup into the tureen, 
 put them into it. The suet must not be shred too 
 line ; and take care that it is quite fresh. 
 
 Scotch Leek Soup. 
 
 Put the water that has boiled a leg of mutton into 
 a stew-pot, with a quantity of chopped leeks, and 
 pepper and salt : simmer them an hour ; then mix 
 some oat-meal, with a little cold water quite smooth, 
 pour it into the soup, set it on a slow part of the fire, 
 and let it simmer gently ; but take care that it does 
 not burn to the bottom. 
 
 Ox-Rump Soup. 
 
 Two or three rumps of beef will make it stronger 
 than a much larger quantity of meat without these, 
 and form a very nourishing soup. Make it like 
 gravy soup, and give it what llavour or thickening 
 you like. 
 
 Hessian Soup and Ragout. 
 
 Clean the root of a neat’s tongue very nicely, and 
 half an ox’s head, with salt and water, and soak 
 them afterwards in water only. Then stew them 
 in five or six quarts of water, till tolerably tender. 
 
69 
 
 Let the soup stand to be cold; take off the fat, 
 which will make good paste for hot meat-pies, or 
 will do to baste. Put to the soup a pint of split 
 peas, or a quart of white ones, twelve carrots, six 
 turnips, six potatoes, six large onions, a bunch of 
 sweet herbs, and two heads of celer}'. Simmer 
 them without the meat, till the vegetables are done 
 enough to pulp with the peas through a sieve : and 
 the soup will then be about the thickness of cream. 
 Season it with pepper, s--.lt, mace, alspice, a clove 
 or two, and a little Cayenne, all in fine powder. If 
 the peas are bad, the soup may not be thick enough ; 
 then boil in it a slice of roll, and put it through the 
 colander ; or add a little rice-fiour, mixing it by de¬ 
 grees. 
 
 For the Ragout, cut the nicest part of the head, 
 the kernels, and part of the fat of the root of the 
 tongue, into small thick pieces. Rub these with 
 some of the above seasoning, as you put them into 
 a quart of the liquor, kept out for that p-arpose be¬ 
 fore the vegetables were added ; flour well, and 
 simmer them till nicely tender. Then put a little 
 mushroom and walnut catsup, a little soy, a glass of 
 port wine, and a tea-spoonful of made mustard ; and 
 boil all up together before served. If for company, 
 small eggs and forcemeat-balls. 
 
 This way furnishes an excellent soup and a ra¬ 
 gout at a small expense, and they are not co-mmon 
 The other part will warm for the family. 
 
 Soup a la sap. 
 
 Boil half a pound of grated potatoes, a pound of 
 beef sliced thin, a pint of gray peas, an onion, and 
 three ounces of rice, in six pints of water, to five ; 
 strain it through a colander : then pulp the peas to 
 it, and turn it into a sauce-pan again, with two heads 
 
 8 * 
 
90 
 
 ofcelery sliced. Stew it tender, and add pepper 
 and salt; and when you serve add also fried bread. 
 
 Portable Soup. 
 
 Boil one or two knuckles of veal, one or two shins 
 of beef, and three pounds of beef, in as much water 
 only as will cover them. Take the marrow out of 
 the bones : put any sort of spice you like, and three 
 large onions. When the mentis done to rags, strain 
 it off, and put it into a very cold place. When cold 
 take off the cake of fat, (which will make crusts for 
 servants’ pies,) put the soup in a double-bottomed 
 tin sauce-pan, and set it on a pretty quick fire, but 
 do not let it burn. It must boil fast and uncovered, 
 and be stirred constantly, for eight hours. Put it 
 into a pan, and let it stand in a cold place a day ; 
 then pour it into a round soup china-dish, and set 
 the dish into a stew-pan of boiling water on a stove, 
 and let it boil, and be now and then stirred, till the 
 soup is thick and ropy, then it is done enough. 
 Pour it into the little round part at the bottom of 
 cups or basins turned upside down, to form cakes ; 
 and when cold turn them out on flannel to dry. 
 Keep them in tin canisters. When they are to be 
 used, melt them in boiling water ; and if you wish 
 the flavour of herbs, or any thing else, boil it first, 
 strain off the water, and melt the soup in it. 
 
 This is very convenient in the country, or at sea, 
 where fresh meat is not always at hand; as by this 
 means a basin of soup may be made in fifteen minutes. 
 
 Soup Maigre. 
 
 Melt half a pound of butter into a stew-pan, shake 
 it round, and throw in six middling onions sliced.— 
 Shake the pan well for two or three minutes ; then 
 put to it five heads of celery, two handfuls of spi¬ 
 nach, two cabbage-lettuces cut small, and some pars* 
 
91 
 
 ley. Shake the pan well for ten minutes ; then pat 
 in two quarts of water, some crusts of bread, a tea- 
 spoonful of beaten pepper, three or four blades of 
 mace ; and if you have any white beet leaves, add a 
 a large handful of them cut small. 
 
 Boil gently an hour. Just before serving beat in 
 two yolks of eggs and a large spoonful of vinegar. 
 
 Stock for brown or white Fish Soups. 
 
 Take a pound of skate, four or five flounders, and 
 two pounds of eels. Clean them well and cut them 
 into pieces : cover them with water; and season 
 them with mace, pepper, salt, an onion stuck with 
 cloves, a head of celery, two pai’sley-roots sliced, 
 and a bunch of sweet herbs. Simmer an hour and 
 a half closely covered, and then strain it off for 
 use. If for brown soup, first fry the fish brown in 
 butter, and then do as above. It will not keep more 
 than two or three days. 
 
 Eel Soup. 
 
 Take three pounds of small eels; put to them 
 wo quarts of water, a crust of bread, three blades 
 of mace, some whole pepper, an onion, and a bunch 
 of sweet herbs : cover them close, and stew till the 
 fish i3 quite broken : then strain it off. Toast some 
 bread, cut it into dice, and pour the soup on it boil¬ 
 ing. A piece of carrot may be put in at first. The 
 soup will be as rich as if made of meat. A quarter 
 of a pint of rich cream, with a tea-spoonful of flour 
 rubbed smooth in it, is a great improvement. 
 
 Skate Soup. 
 
 Make it of the stock fish for soup (as directed 
 above) with an ounce of vermicelli boiled in it, a lit¬ 
 tle before it is served. Then add half a pint of 
 cream, beaten with the yolks of two eggs. Stir it 
 near, but not on the fire. Serve it with a small 
 
92 
 
 French roll made hot in a Dutch oven and then 
 soaked in the soup an hour. 
 
 Excellent Lobster Soup 
 
 Take the meat from the claws, bodies, and tails, 
 of six small lobsters : take away the brown fur, and 
 the bag in the head : beat the fins, chine, and small 
 claws in a morter. Boil it very gently in two quarts 
 of water, with the crumb of a French roll, some 
 white pepper, salt, two anchovies, a large on-ion, 
 sweet herbs, and a bit of lemon-peel, till you have 
 extracted the goodness of them all. Strain it off.— 
 Beat the spawn in a mortar, with a bit of butter, a 
 quarter of a nutmeg and a tea-spoonful of flour ; mix 
 it with a quart of cream. Cut the tails into pieces, 
 and give them a boil up with the cream and soup.— 
 Serve with forcemeat balls made of the remainder 
 of the lobster, mace, pepper, salt; a few crumbs, 
 and an egg or two. Let the balls be made up with a 
 bit of flour, and heated in the soup. 
 
 Craw Jish or Prawn Soup. 
 
 Boil six whitings, and a large eel (or the eel and 
 half a thornback, well cleaned,) with as much wa¬ 
 ter as will cover them ; skim them clean, and put 
 in whole pepper, mace, ginger, parsley, an onion, 
 a little thyme, and three cloves. Boil to a mash. 
 Pick fifty craw-fish, or a hundred prawns ; pound 
 the shells and a little roll ; but first boil them with 
 a little water, vinegar, salt, and herbs : put this li¬ 
 quor over the shells in a sieve ; then pour the other 
 soup clear from the sediment. Chop a lobster, 
 and add this to it, with a quart of good beef-gravy ; 
 add also the tails of the craw-fish or the prawns, and 
 some flour and butter ; and season as may be liked, 
 if not high enough. 
 
93 
 
 Oyster Soup. 
 
 Take two quarts of fish stock, beat the yolks of 
 ten hard eggs, and the, hard part of two quarts of 
 oysters, in a mortar, and add this to the stock* 
 Simmer it all for half an hour ; then strain it off and 
 put it and the oysters (cleared of the beards, and 
 nicely washed,) into the soup, Simmer five mi¬ 
 nutes ; have ready the yolks of six raw eggs well 
 beaten, and add them to the soup. Stir it all well 
 one way, on toe side of the fire, till it is thick and 
 smooth, but do not let it boil. Serve all together. 
 
 Oyster Mouth Soup. 
 
 Make a rich mutton broth with two large onions, 
 three blades of mace, and black pepper. When 
 strained, pour it on a hundred and fifty oysters, 
 without the beards, and a bit of butter rolled in 
 flour. Sijnmer gently a quarter of an hour, and 
 serve. 
 
 GRAVIES. 
 
 General Directions respecting Gravies. 
 
 Gravy may be made quite as good of the skirts ©f 
 beef and the kidney, as of any other meat prepared 
 in the same way. 
 
 An ox-kidney, or milt, makes good gravy, cut all 
 to pieces, and prepared as other meats ; and so will 
 the shank-end of mutton that has been dressed, if 
 much be not wanted. 
 
 The shank-bones of mutton are a great improve¬ 
 ment to the richness of grav} r , but first soak them 
 well, and scour them clean. 
 
 Taragon gives the flavour of French cookery, and 
 in high gravies is a great improvement; but it should 
 be added only a short time before serving. 
 
 To dress Gravy that will keep a week 
 
 Cut lean beef thin, put it into a frying-pan wifli- 
 
 r 
 
94 
 
 out any butter, and set it on the fire covered, bat 
 take care it does not burn ; let it stay till all the gra¬ 
 vy that comes out of the meat is dried up into it 
 again; put as much water as will cover the meat, 
 and let that stew away. Then put to the meat a 
 small quantity of water, herbs, onions, spice, and a 
 bit of lean ham : simmer till it is rich, and keep it 
 in a cool place. Do not take off the fat till going to 
 be used. 
 
 Clear Gravy. 
 
 Slice beef thin ; broil a part of it over a very 
 clear quick fire, just enough to give colour to the 
 gravy, but not to dress it; put that and the raw into 
 a very nicely tinned stew-pan, with two onions, a 
 clove or two, whole black peppers, berries of al- 
 spice, a bunch of sweet herbs ; cover it with hot wa¬ 
 ter, give it one boil, and skim it well two or three 
 times; then cover it; and simmer till quite strong. 
 
 Cullis, or brown Gravy. 
 
 Lay over the bottom of a stew-pan as much lean 
 veal as will cover it an inch thick ; then cover the 
 veal with thin slices of undressed gammon, two or 
 three onions, two or three bay-leaves, some sweet 
 herbs, two blades of mace, and three cloves. Cover 
 the stew-pan, and set it over a slow fire ; but when 
 the juices come out, let the fire be a little quicker. 
 When the meat is of a fine brown, fill the pan with 
 good beef broth, boil and skim it, then simmer an 
 hour ; add a little water, mixed with as much flour 
 as will make it properly thick : boil it half an hour, 
 and strain it. This will keep a week. 
 
 Bechamel , or white Sauce. 
 
 Cut lean veal into small slices, and the same 
 quantity of lean bacon or ham : put them into a 
 stew-pan with a good piece of butter, an onion, a 
 
95 
 
 blade of mace, a few mushroom-buttons, a bit of’ 
 thyme, and a bay-leaf 5 fry the whole over a very 
 slow fire, but not to brown it, thicken it with flour ; 
 then put an equal quantity of good broth, and rich 
 cream ; let it boil half an hour, and stir it all the 
 time : strain it through a soup-strainer. 
 
 A rich Gravy. 
 
 Cut beef into thin slices, according to the quantity 
 wanted ; slice onions thin, and flour both ; fi'y them 
 of u light pale brown, but do not on any account 
 suffer them to get black ; put them into a stew pan, 
 pour boiling water on the browning in the frying- 
 pan, boil it up, and pour on the meat. Put to it a 
 bunch of parsley, thyme, and savoury, a small bit of 
 knotted majoram, the same of taragon, some mace, 
 berries of alspice, whole black peppers, a clove or 
 two, and a bit of ham, or gammon of bacon. Sim¬ 
 mer till you have extracted all the juices of the meat; 
 and be sure to skim the moment it boils, and often 
 after. If for a hare or stewed fish anchovy should 
 be added. 
 
 Gravy for a Fowl when there is no meat to make it of. 
 
 Wash the feet nicely, and cut them and the neck 
 small; simmer them with a little bread browmed, a 
 slice of onion, a bit of parsley and thyme, some pep¬ 
 per and salt, and the liver and gizzard, in a quarter 
 of pint of water till half wasted. Take out the liver, 
 bruise it and strain the liquor to it. Then thicken 
 it with flour and butter, and add a tea-spoonful of 
 mushioom-catsup, and it wdl be very good. 
 
 Veal Gravy. 
 
 Make it as directed for Cullis or brown Gravy, 
 but leave out the spice, herbs, and flour. It should 
 be drawn very slowly ; and if for white dishes, do 
 
 not let the meat brown. 
 
96 
 
 Gravy to make Mutton eat like Venison. 
 
 Pick a very stale wood-cock or snipe, cut it into 
 pieces (but first take out the bag from the entrails ; 
 and simmer with as much unseasoned meat-gravy 
 as you will want. Strain it and serve in the dish. 
 
 Strong Fish Gravy. 
 
 Skin two or three eels, or some flounders ; gut 
 and wash them very clean ; cut them into small 
 pieces, anxl put into a saucepan. Cover them with 
 water, and add a little crust of bread toasted brown, 
 two blades of mace, some whole pepper, sweet 
 herbs, a piece of lemon-peel, an anchovy or two, 
 and a tea-spoonful of horse radish. Cover close and 
 simmer, add a bit of butter and flour, and boil with 
 the above. 
 
 Savoury Jelly to put over cold Pies. 
 
 Make it of a small bare knuckle of leg or shoulder 
 of veal, or a piece of scrag of that or mutton ; or if 
 the pie be of fowl or rabbit, the carcasses, necks, and 
 heads, added to any piece of meat, will be sufficient, 
 observing to give consistence by cow-heel or shanks 
 mutton. Put the meat, or a slice of lean ham or 
 bacon, a faggot of different herbs, two blades of 
 mace, an onion or two, a small bit of lemon-peel, 
 and a tea-spoonful of Jamaica pepper bruised, and 
 the same of whole pepper, and three pints of water, 
 in a stew-pot that shuts very close. As soon as it 
 boils, skim it well, and let it simmer very slowly til) 
 quite strong ; strain it, and when cold, take off the 
 fat with a spoon first, and then, to remove every 
 particle of grease, lay a clean piece of cap or blot¬ 
 ting paper on it. When cold, if not clear, boil it a 
 few minutes with the whites of two eggs (but do not 
 'add the sediment.) and pour it through a nice sieve. 
 
97 
 
 with a napkin in it, which has been dipped in boil* 
 mg water, to prevent waste. 
 
 Jelly to cover cold Fish. 
 
 Clean a maid, and put it in three quarts of water, 
 with a calf’s foot or cow-heel, a stick of horse-radish, 
 an onion, three blades of mace, some w'hite pepper, 
 a piece of lemon-peel, and a good slice of lean gam¬ 
 mon. Stew until it will jelly ; then strain off; when 
 cold remove every bit of fat; take it up from the 
 sediment, and boil it with a glass of sherry, the whites 
 of four or five eggs, and a piece of lemon. Boil with¬ 
 out stirring ; and after a few minutes set it by to stand 
 half an hour, and strain it through a bag or sieve, 
 with a cloth in it. Cover the fish with it when cold. 
 
 SAUCES, &C. 
 
 A very good Sauce, especially to hide the bad colour of 
 
 Fowls. 
 
 Cut the livers, slices of lemon in dice, scalded 
 parsley, and hard eggs ; add salt and mix them with 
 butter; boil them up, and pour over the fowls. 
 
 This will do for roast rabbit. 
 
 White Sauce for fricassee of Fowls, Rabbits , White 
 Meat Fish , of Vegetables. 
 
 It is seldom necessary to buy meat for this favour¬ 
 ite sauce, as the proportion of that flavour is but 
 small. The water that has boiled fowls, veal, or 
 rabbit; or a little broth, that may be in the house ; 
 or the feet and necks of chickens, or raw or dressed 
 veal, will suffice. Stew with a little water any of 
 these, with a bit of lemon-peel, some sliced onions, 
 some white pepper-corns, a little pounded mace or 
 nutmeg, and a bunch of sweet herbs, until the fla¬ 
 vour be good, then strain it and add a little good 
 
 9 
 
98 
 
 cream, a piece of batter and a little flour ; salt t<s 
 your taste. A squeeze of lemon may be added after 
 the sauce is taken off the fire, shaking it well. Yolk 
 of egg is often used in fricassee,but if you have any 
 cream it is better, and the former is apt to curdle. 
 
 Sauce for Wild Fowls. 
 
 Simmer a tea-cupful of port wine, the same quan¬ 
 tity of good meat gravy, a little shallot, a little pepper, 
 salt, a grate of nutmeg, and a bit of mace, for ten 
 minutes : put in a bit ofbutter, and flour, give it all 
 one boil, and pour it through the birds. In general 
 they are not stuffed as tame, but may be done so if 
 liked. 
 
 Sauce for Fowl of any sort. 
 
 Boil some veal-gravy, pepper, salt, the juice of a 
 Seville orange and a lemon, and a quarter as much 
 of port wine as of gravy ; and pour it into the dish, or 
 a boat. 
 
 Sauce for cold Fowl, or Partridge. 
 
 R.ub down in a mortar the yolks of two eggs boil¬ 
 ed hard, an anchovy, two dessert-spoonfuls of oil, 
 three of vinegar, a shallot, Cayenne, if approved, and 
 a tea-spoonful of mustard. All should be pounded 
 before the oil is added. Then strain it. Shallot 
 vinegar instead of shallots, eats well. 
 
 A very fine Mushroom Sauce for Fowls or Rabbits. 
 
 Wash and pick a pint of young mushrooms and 
 rub them with salt, to take off the tender skin. Put 
 them into a sauce-pan with a little salt, some nutmeg, 
 a blade of mace, a pint of cream, and a good piece 
 ofbutter rubbed in flour. Boil them up, and stir 
 them till done ; then pour it round the chickens, &c. 
 Garnish with lemon. 
 
 Ifvou cannot get fresh mushrooms, use pickled 
 
99 
 
 cione white, with a little mushroom powder with 
 va*s cream, &c. 
 
 Lemon white Sauce for boiling Fowls. 
 
 Put the peel of a small lemon, cut very thin, into 
 s pint of sweet rich cream, with a sprig of lemon- 
 th^me, and ten white pepper-corns. Simmer gen- 
 tty till it taste well of the lemon ; then strain it, and 
 thicken it with a quarter of a pound of butter, and a 
 dessert-spoonful of flour rubbed in it. Boil it up ; 
 then pour the juice of the lemon strained into it, stir¬ 
 ring it wefl. Dish the chickens, and then mix a lit¬ 
 tle white gravy, quite hot, with the cream, but do 
 not boil them together : add salt to your taste. 
 
 Eggs Sauce. 
 
 Boil the eggs hard, and cut them into small pieces ; 
 then put them to melted butter. 
 
 Onion Sauce. 
 
 Peel the onions, and boil them tender : squeeze 
 the water from them, then chop them, and add to 
 them butter ihat has been melted rich and smooth, 
 as will be hereafter directed, but with a little good 
 milk instead of water ; boil it up once, and serve it 
 for boiled rabbits, partridges, scrag or knuckle of 
 veal, or roast mutton. A turnip boiled with the on¬ 
 ions makes them milder. 
 
 Clear Shallot Sauce. 
 
 Put a few chopped sh dlots into a little gravy boil¬ 
 ed clear, and near halfas much vinegar ; season with 
 pepper and salt; boil half an hour. 
 
 Green Sauce for Green Geese and Ducklings. 
 
 Mix a quarter of a pint of sorrel-juice, a glass of 
 white wine, and some scalded gooseberries. Add 
 sugar, and a bit of butter. Boil them up. 
 
100 
 
 Bread Sauce. 
 
 Boil a large onion, cut in four, with some black 
 'peppers and milk, till the onion is quite a pap. Pour 
 the milk strained on grated white stale bread, and 
 cover it. In an hour put it into a sauce-pan, with a 
 good piece of butter mixed with a little flour ; boil 
 the whole up together, and serve. 
 
 Dutch Sauce for a leal or Fish. 
 
 Put six spoonfuls of water, and four of vinegar, in¬ 
 to a sauce-pan warm, and thicken it with the yolks 
 of two eggs. Make it quite hot, but do not boil it, 
 squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and strain it 
 through a sieve. 
 
 Sauce Rohari, for Rumps or Steaks. 
 
 Put a piece of butter, the size of an egg, into a 
 sauce-pan, set it over the fire, and when browning, 
 throw in a handful of sliced onions cut small; fry 
 them brown, but do not let them burn ; add half a 
 spoonful of flour, shake the onions in it, and give it 
 another fry : then put four spoonfuls of gravy, and 
 some pepper and salt, aad boil it gently ten minutes ; 
 skim off the fat; add a tea-spoonful of made mus¬ 
 tard, a spoonful of vinegar, and the juice of half a 
 lemon ; boil it all, and pour it round the steaks.— 
 They should be of a fine yellow brown, and garnish¬ 
 ed with fried parsley and lemon. 
 
 Benton Sauce, for hot or cold Roast Beef. 
 
 Grate, or scrape very fine, some horse-radish, a 
 little made mustard, some pounded white sugar, and 
 four large spoonfuls of vinegar. Serve in a saucer. 
 
 Sauce for Fish Pies, where cream is not ordered. 
 
 Take equal quantities of white wine (not sweet,) 
 vinegar, oyster-liquors, mushroom-catsup; boil 
 them up with an anchovy ; strain; and pour it 
 through a funnel into the pie after it is baked. 
 
101 
 
 Another. —Chop an anchovy small, and boil it up 
 with three spoonfuls of gravy, a quarter of a pint of 
 cream, add a bit of butter and flour. 
 
 Tomato Sauce, for hot or cold Meats. 
 
 Put tomateos, when perfectly ripe, into an earthen 
 jar ; and set it in an oven, when the bread is drawn, 
 till they are quite soft; then separate the skin from 
 the pulp ; and mix this with capsicum-vinegar, and 
 a few cloves of garlic pounded, which must both be 
 proportioned to the quantity of fruit. Add powder¬ 
 ed ginger and salt to your taste. Some white-wine 
 vinegar and Cayenne may be used instead of capsi¬ 
 cum vinegar. Keep the mixture in small wide 
 mouthed bottles, well corked, and in a dry cool 
 place. 
 
 Apple Sauce, for Goose or roast Pork. 
 
 Pare, core, and slice, some apples ; and put them 
 in a stone jar, into a saucepan of water, or on a hot 
 hearth. 
 
 The old Currant-Sauce for Venison. 
 
 Boil an ounce of dried currants in half a pint of 
 water a few minutes ; then add a small tea-cuplul of 
 bread-crumbs, six cloves, a glass of port wine, and 
 a bit of butter Stir it till the whole is smooth. 
 
 Lemon Sauce. 
 
 Cut thin slices of lemon into very small dice, and 
 put them into melted butter, give it one boil, and 
 pour it over boiled fowls. 
 
 Carrier Sauce for Mutton. 
 
 Chop six shallots fine ; and boil them up with a 
 gill of gravy, a spoonful of vinegar, some pepper 
 and salt. Serve it in a boat. 
 
 Tomatoes. 
 
 Tomatoes are used in soups, sauces, and to serve 
 as little dishes at table, at any part of a dinner. 
 
 9 * 
 
102 
 
 A very fine fish Sauce. 
 
 Put into a very nice tin sauce-pan a pint of fine 
 port wine, a gill ofmountain, halfa pint of fine wal¬ 
 nut-catsup, twelve anchovies and the liquor that be¬ 
 longs to them, a gill of walnut-pickle, the rind and 
 juice of a large lemon, four or five shallots, some 
 Cayenne to taste, three ounces of scraped horse¬ 
 radish, three blades of mace, and two tea-spoonfuls 
 of made mustard ; boil it all gently, till the rawness 
 goes off; then put it into small bottles for use. 
 Cork them very close, and seal the top. 
 
 An excellent substitute Jar Caper Sauce. 
 
 Boil slowly some parsley, to let it become a bad 
 colour cut, but do not chop it fine ; put it to melted 
 butter, with a tea-spoonful of salt, and a desertr 
 spoonful of vinegar. Boil up and serve. 
 
 Oyster Sauce. 
 
 Save the liquor in opening the oysters ; and boil 
 it with the beards, a bit of mace, and lemon-peel. 
 In the mean time throw the oysters into cold water, 
 and drain it off. Strain the liquor, and put it into a 
 saucepan with them, and as much butter, mixed 
 with a little milk, as will make sauce enough ; but 
 first rub a little flour with it. 
 
 Set them over the fire, and stir all the time ; and 
 when the butter has boiled once or twice, take them 
 off, and keep the saucepan near the fire, but not on 
 it; for, if done too much, the oysters will be hard. 
 Squeeze a little lemon-juice, and serve. 
 
 A little cream is a great improvement. Observe, 
 the oysters will thin the sauce, so put butter accor¬ 
 dingly. 
 
 Lobster Sauce 
 
 Pound the spawn, and two anenovies ; pour on 
 
103 
 
 them two spoonfuls of gravy ; strain all into some 
 butter melted as will be hereafter directed ; then 
 put in the meat of the lobster, give it all one boil, 
 and add a squeeze of lemon. 
 
 Shrimp Sauce. 
 
 If the shrimps are not picked at home, pour a 
 little water over them to wash them, put them to 
 butter melted thick and smooth, give them one boil, 
 and add the juice of a lemon. 
 
 Anchovy Sauce. 
 
 Chop one or two anchovies without washing, put 
 them to some flour and butter, and a little drop of 
 water : stir it over the fire till it boils once or twice. 
 When the anchovies are good, they will be dissolv¬ 
 ed ; and the colour will be better than by the usual 
 way. 
 
 To melt butter : which is rarely well done, though a 
 •very essential article. 
 
 Mix in the proportion of a tea-spoonful of flour to 
 four ounces of the best butter, on a trencher. Put 
 it into a small sauce-pan, and two or three table¬ 
 spoonfuls of hot water ; boil quick, a minute, shak¬ 
 ing it all the time. Milk used instead of water, re¬ 
 quires rather less butter, and looks whiter. 
 
 To make Mustard. 
 
 Mix the best Durham flour of mustard by degrees, 
 with boiling w'ater, to a proper thickness, rubbing it 
 perfectly smooth ; add a little salt, and keep it in a 
 small jar close covered, and put only as much into 
 the glass as will be used soon : which should be wiped 
 daily round the edges. 
 
 Kitchen Pepper. 
 
 Mix in the finest powder, one ounce of ginger ; 
 ofcinnamon, black pepper, nutmeg,and Jamaica pep- 
 
104 
 
 per, half an ounce each ; ten cloves and six; ounces 
 of salt. Keep it in a bottle—it is an agreeable addi¬ 
 tion to any brown sauces or soups. 
 
 Forcemeat , to force Fowls or Meat. 
 
 Shred a little ham, or gammon, some cold veal, or 
 fowl, some beef-suet, a small quantity of onion, some 
 parsley, very little lemon-peel, salt nutmeg, or 
 pounded mace, and either white pepper, or Cayenne, 
 and bread-crumbs. 
 
 Pound it in a mortar, and bind it with one or two 
 eggs beaten and strained. For forcemeat patties, the 
 mixture as above. 
 
 For cold Savoury Pies. 
 
 The same ; only substituting fat, or bacon, for suet. 
 The livers (if the pie be of rabbit or fowl,) mixed 
 with fat and lean of pork, instead of bacon, and sea¬ 
 soned as ab„ove, are excellent. 
 
 Forcemeat as for Turtle. 
 
 A pound of tine fresh suet, one ounce of ready 
 dressed veal or chicken,-chopped fine, crumbs of 
 bread, a little shallot or onion, salt, white pepper, 
 nutmeg, mace, pennyroyal, parsley, and lemon- 
 thyme, finely shred ; beat as many fresh eggs, yolks 
 and whites separately, as will make the above in¬ 
 gredients into a moist paste ; roll into srnali balls, 
 and boil them in fresh lard, putting them in just as it 
 boils up. When of a light brown, take them out, 
 and drain them before the fire. If the suet be moi9t 
 or stale, a great many more eggs will be necessary. 
 
 PIES, PUDDINGS, AND PASTRY 
 
 On Savoury Pies. 
 
 There are few articles of cookery more generally 
 liked than relishing-pies, if properly made; and 
 they may be made so of a great variety of things. 
 
Some are best eaten when cold, and in that case, 
 there should be no suet put into the forcemeat that is 
 used with them. If the pie is either made of meat 
 that will take more dressing, to make it extremely 
 tender, than the baking of the crust will allow, or 
 if it is to be served in an earthen pie-form, observe 
 the following preparation : 
 
 Take three pounds of the very nicest of beef (for 
 instance) that has fat and lean ; wash it; and season 
 it with salt, pepper, mace, and alspice, in tine pow¬ 
 der, rubbing them well in. Set it by the side of a 
 slow fire, in a stew-pot that will just hold it; put to 
 it a piece of butter of about the weight of two ounces, 
 and cover it quite close ; let it just simmer in its 
 own steam till it begins to shrink. When it is cold, 
 add more seasoning, forcemeat, and eggs ; and if it is 
 in a dish, put some gravy to it before baking ; but if 
 it is only in crust, do not put the gravy till after it is 
 cold and in jelly. Forcemeat may be put both un¬ 
 der and over the meat, if preferred to balls. 
 
 Eel Pie. 
 
 Cut the eels in lengths of two or three inches, 
 season with pepper and salt, and place in the dish, 
 with some bits of butter, and a little water, and cover 
 it with paste. 
 
 Cod Pie. 
 
 Take a piece of the middle of a small cod, and salt 
 it'well one night; next day wash it: season with 
 pepper, salt, and a very little nutmeg, mixed ; place 
 in a dish, and put some butter on it, and a little good 
 broth of any kind into the dish. 
 
 Cover it with a crust; and when done, add a 
 sauce of a spoonful of broth, a quarter of a pint of 
 cream, a little flour and butter, a grate of lemon and 
 nutmeg, and give it one boil. Oystprs may be added. 
 
i06 
 
 Mackerel will do well, hut do not salt them till 
 used. 
 
 Parsley picked and put in, may be used instead of 
 oysters. 
 
 Shrimp Pie , Excellent 
 
 Pick a quart of shrimps : if they are very salt, 
 season them with only mace and a clove or two. 
 Mince two or three anchovies ; mix these with the 
 spice, and then season the shrimps. Put some but¬ 
 ter at the bottom of the dish, and over the shrimps, 
 with a glass of sharp white wine. The paste must 
 be light and thin. They do not take long baking. 
 
 , Lobster Pie. 
 
 Boil two lobsters, or three small, take out the 
 tails, cut them in two, take out the gut, cut each in 
 four pieces and lay in a small dish, then put in the 
 meat of the claws, and that you have picked out of 
 the body ; pick off the furry parts from the latter, 
 and take out the lady ; the spawn beat in a mortar ; 
 likewise all the shells ; set them on to stew with 
 some water, two or three spoonfuls of vinegar, pep¬ 
 per, salt, and some pounded mace : a large piece of 
 butter, rolled in flour, must be added when the 
 goodness of the shells is obtained : give a boil or 
 two, and pour into the dish strained ; stew some 
 crumbs, and put a paste over all ; bake slowly, but 
 only till the jiaste be done. 
 
 A remarkable fine Fish Pie. 
 
 Boil two pounds of small eels ; having cut the 
 fins quite close, pick the flesh off, and throw the 
 bones into the liquor with a little mace, pepper, 
 salt, and a slice of onion ; boil till quite rich, and 
 strain it. Make forcemeat of the flesh, an anchovy, 
 parsley, lemon peel, salt, pepper, and crumbs, and 
 Tour ounces of butter warmed, and lav it at the hot- 
 
107 
 
 tom ot’ the dish. Take the flesh of a small cod, or 
 dressed turbot, and lay them on the forcemeat, hav¬ 
 ing rubbed it with salt and pepper: pour the gravy 
 over and bake. 
 
 Beef Steak Pie. 
 
 Prepare the steaks as in page 32, and when sea¬ 
 soned and rolled with fat in each, put them in a dish 
 with puff paste round the edges ; put a little water 
 in the dish, and cover it with good crust. 
 
 Veal Pie. 
 
 Take some of the middle, or scrag of a small 
 neck ; season it ; and either put to it, or not, a few 
 slices of lean bacon or ham. If it is wanted of a high 
 relish, add mace, Cayenne, and nutmeg, to the salt 
 and pepper: and also forcemeat and eggs ; and if 
 you choose, add truffles, morels, mushrooms, sweet¬ 
 breads cut into small bits, and cocks’-combs blanch¬ 
 ed, if liked. Have a rich gravy ready, and pour in 
 after baking.—Ii will be very good without any of 
 the latter additions. 
 
 A rich Veal Pie. 
 
 Cut steaks from a neck or breast of veal; season 
 them with pepper, salt, nutmeg, and a very little 
 clove in powder. Slice two sweetbreads, and sea¬ 
 son them in the same manner. Lay a puff paste 
 on the edge of the dish ; then put the meat, yolks of 
 hard eggs, the sweetbreads, and some oysters, up to 
 the top of the dish. Lay over the whole some very 
 thin slices of ham, and fill up the dish with water ; 
 cover; and when it is taken out of the oven, pour 
 in at the top, through a funnel, a few spoonfuls of 
 good veal gravy, and some cream to fill up: but 
 first boil it up with a tea-spoonful of flour. 
 
 Calf s-head Pie. 
 
 Stew a knuckle of veal till fit for eating, with twa 
 
10S 
 
 onions, a tew isinglass-shavings, a bunch of herbs, a 
 blade of mace, and a few pepper-corns, in three 
 pints of water. Keep the broth for the pie. Take 
 off a bit of the meat for the balls, and let the other 
 be eaten, but simmer the bones in the broth till it is 
 very good. Half-boil the head, and cut it into 
 square bits ; put a layer of ham at the bottom ; then 
 some head, first fat, then lean, with balls and hal’d 
 eggs cut in half, and so on till the dish be full ; but 
 be particularly careful not to place the pieces close, 
 or the pie will be too solid, and there will be no 
 space lor the jelly. Meat must be first pretty 
 well seasoned with pepper and salt, and a scrape or 
 two of nutmeg. Put a little water and a little gravy 
 into the dish, and cover it with a tolerably thick 
 crust; bake it in a slow oven, and when done, pour 
 into it as much gravy as it will possibly hold, and do 
 not cut it till perfectly cold ; in doing which, observe 
 to use a very sharp knife, and first cut out a large bit, 
 going down to the bottom of the dish ; and when 
 done thus, thinner slices can be cut; the different 
 colours and the clear jelly have a beautiful marbled 
 appearance. 
 
 A small pie may be made to eat hot, which, with 
 high seasoning, oysters, mushrooms, truffles, morels, 
 &c. has a very good appearance. 
 
 The cold pie will keep many days. Slices make 
 a pretty side dish. 
 
 Instead of isinglass, use a calf’s foot, or a cow- 
 heel, if the jelly is not likely to be stiff enough. 
 
 The pickled tongues offormer calves heads may be 
 cot in, to vary the colour, instead of, or besides ham. 
 
 Excellent pork Pies to eat cold,. 
 
 Raise common boiled crust into either a round or 
 oval form, as you choose ; have ready the trimming 
 
and small bits of pork cut off when a hog is killed; 
 and if these are not enough, take the meat of a sweet 
 bone. Beat it well with a rolling-pin ; season with 
 pepper and salt, and keep the fat and lean separate. 
 Put it in layers, quite dose up to the top ; lay on 
 the lid cut the edge smooth round, and pinch it; 
 bake in a slow soaking oven, as the meat is very 
 solid. Directions for raising the crust will be given 
 hereafter. The pork may be put into a common 
 dish, with a very plain crust, and be quite as good. 
 Observe to put no bone or water into pork pie ; the 
 outside of the pieces will be hard, unless they are 
 cut small and pressed close. 
 
 Mutton Pie. 
 
 Cut steaks from a neck or loin of mutton that has 
 hung; beat them and remove some of the fat. 
 Season with salt, pepper, and a little onion : put a 
 little water at the bottom of the dish, and a little 
 paste on the edge ; then cover with a moderately 
 thick paste. Or raise small pies, and breaking each 
 bone in two to shorten it; season, and cover it 
 over, pinching the edge. When they come out, 
 pour into each a spoonful of gravy made of a bit of 
 mutton. 
 
 Squab Pie. 
 
 Cut apples as for other pies, and lay them in rows 
 with mutton chops ; shred onion, and sprinkle at 
 among them, and also some sugar 
 
 Lamb Pie. 
 
 Make it of the loin, neck, or breast; the breast of 
 house-lamb is one of the most delicate things that 
 Oan be eaten. It should be very lightly seasoned 
 with pepper and salt; the bone taken out, but not 
 the gristles ; ; and a small quantity of jelly gravy be 
 
 10 
 
no 
 
 put in hot; but the pie should not be cut till cold. 
 Put two spoonfuls of water before baking. 
 
 Grass lamb makes an excellent pie, and may either 
 be boned or not, but not to bone it is perhaps the 
 best. Season with pepper and salt only ; put two 
 spoonfuls of water before baking, and as much gra- 
 yy when it comes from the oven. 
 
 Note .—Meat pies being fat, it is best to let out the 
 gravy on one side, and put it in again by a funnel, at 
 the centre, and a little may be added. 
 
 Chicken Pie. 
 
 Cut up two young towls ; season with white pep¬ 
 per, salt, a little mace, and nutmeg, all in the finest 
 powder; likewise a little Cayenne. Put the chick¬ 
 en, slices of harn, or fresh gammon of bacon, force¬ 
 meat-balls, and hard eggs, by turns, in layers. If it 
 is to be baked in a dish, put in a little water ; but 
 none if in a raised crust. By the time it returns 
 from the oven, have ready a gravy off a knuckle of 
 veal, or a bit of the scrag, with some shank-bones of 
 mutton, seasoned with herbs, onions, mace, and white 
 pepper. If it is to be eaten hot you may add truffles, 
 morels, mushrooms, &.c. but not if to be eaten cold. 
 If it is made in a dish, put as much gravy as will fill 
 it; but in a raised crust, the gravy must be nicely 
 strained, and then put in cold as jelly. To make the 
 jelly clear, you may give it a boil with the whites of 
 two eggs, after taking away the meat, and then run 
 it through a fine lawn sieve. 
 
 Rabbits, if young and in flesh, do as well: their 
 legs should be cut short, and the breast-bones must 
 Dot go in, but will help to make the gravy. 
 
 Green-Goose Pie. 
 
 Bone two young green geese, of a good size ; but 
 first take away every plug, and singe them nicely. 
 
Ill 
 
 Wash them clean; and season them high with salt, 
 pepper, mace, and alspice Put one inside the 
 other, and press them as close as you can, drawing 
 the legs inwards. Put a good deal of butter over 
 them, and bake them either with or without cru-st ; 
 if the latter, a cover to the dish must lit close to 
 keep in the steam. It will keep long. 
 
 Duck Pie. 
 
 Bone a full grown young duck and a fowl ; wash 
 them and season with pepper and salt, and a small 
 proportion of mace and alspice ; in the finest pow¬ 
 der. Put the fowl within the duck, and in the for¬ 
 mer a calf’s tongue pickled red, boiled very tender, 
 and peeled. Press the w hole close ; the skins of 
 the legs should be drawn inwards, that the body of 
 the fowds may be quite smooth. If approved, the 
 space between the sides of the crust may be filled 
 with a fine forcemeat, made according to the receipt 
 as for turtle. Bake it in a slow oven, either in 
 a raised crust, or pie-dish, with a thick crust orna¬ 
 mented. 
 
 The large pies in Staffordshire are made as above, 
 but with a goose outwards, then a turkey, a duck 
 next, then a fowl, and either tongue, small birds, or 
 lorcemeat, in the middle. 
 
 Giblet Pie. 
 
 After nicely cleaning goose or duck giblets, stew 
 (hem with a small quantity of water, onion, black 
 pepper, and a bunch of sweet herbs, till nearly done. 
 Let them grow cold ; and if not enough to fill the 
 dish, lay a beef, veal, or two or three mutton steaks, 
 at bottom. Put the liquor of the stew to bake with 
 the above ; and when the pie is baked, pour into it 
 a large tea-cupful of cream. 
 
 Sliced potatoes added to it eat extremely well. 
 
1\2 
 
 Pigeon Pie. 
 
 Rub the pigeons with pepper and salt, inside and 
 out; in the latter but a bit of butter, and if approved, 
 some parsley chopped with the livers, and a little of 
 the same seasoning. Lay a beef steak at the bottom 
 of the dish, and the birds on it; between every two, 
 a hard egg. Put a cup of water in the dish ; and if 
 you have any ham in the house, lay a bit on each 
 pigeon ; it is a great improvement to the flavour. 
 
 Observe when ham is cut for gravy or pies, to 
 take the under part rather than the prime. 
 
 Season the gizzards, and two joints of the wings, 
 and put them in the centre of the pie ; and over 
 them, in a hole made in the crust, three feet nicely 
 cleaned, to show what pie it is. 
 
 Partridge Pie in a Dish. 
 
 Pick and singe four partridges : cut off the legs at 
 the knee, season with pepper, salt, chopped parsley, 
 thyme, and mushrooms. Lay a veal-steak, and a 
 slice of ham, at the bottom of the dish ; put the 
 partridges in, and half a pint of good broth. Put 
 puff paste on the ledge ot the dish, and cover with 
 the same ; brush it over with egg, and bake an hour. 
 
 A French Pie. 
 
 Lay a puff' paste round on the ledge of the dish, 
 and put in either veal in slices, rabbits, or chickens 
 jointed; with forcemeat-balls, sweebreads cut in 
 pieces, artichoke bottoms, and a few truffles. 
 
 Vegetable Pie. 
 
 Scald and blanch some broad beans ; cut young 
 carrots, turnips, artichoke-bottoms, mushrooms, 
 peas, onions, lettuce, parsley, celery, or any of 
 them you have ; make the whole into a nice stew, 
 with some good veal-gravy. Bake a crust over a 
 dish, with a little lining round the edge, and a cun 
 
When baked, 
 
 turned up to keep it from sinking, 
 open the lid, and pour in the stew. 
 
 Parsley Pie. 
 
 Lay a fowl, or n tew bones of the scrag of veal, 
 seasoned, into a dish, scald a colander full of picked 
 parsley in milk ; season if; and add to it the fowl 
 or meat, with a tea-cupful of any sort of good broth, 
 or weak gravy. When it is baked, pour into it a 
 quarter of a pint of cream scalded, with the size of 
 a walnut of butter, and a bit of Hour. Shake it 
 round, to mix with the gravy already in. 
 
 Lettuces, white mustard leaves, or spinach, may 
 be added to the parsley, and scalded before put in. 
 
 Turnip Pie. 
 
 Season mutton chops with salt and pepper, re¬ 
 serving the ends of the neck-bones to lay over the 
 turnips, which must bp cut into small dice, and put 
 on the steaks. Put two or three good spoonfuls of 
 milk in. You may add sliced onion. Cover with a 
 crust. 
 
 Potato Pie. 
 
 Skin some potatoes, and cut them into slices : sea¬ 
 son them ; and also some mutton, beef, pork, or 
 veal. Put layers of them and of the meat. 
 
 An Herb Pie. 
 
 Pick two handfuls of parsley from the stems, 
 half the quantity of spinach, two lettuces, some mus¬ 
 tard and cress, a few leaves of borage, and white- 
 beet leaves ; wash, and boil them a little ; then 
 drain, and press out the water ; cut them small ; 
 mix and lay them in a dish ; sprinkle with some salt; 
 mix a batter of Hour, two eggs well beaten, a pint of 
 cream, and half a pint of milk, and pour it on the 
 herbs : cover with a good crust, and b; ke. 
 
 10 * 
 
114 
 
 Raised Crust , for Meat Pies , or Fowls, 4*c. 
 
 Boil water with a little tine lard, and an equal 
 quantity of fresh dripping, or of butter, but not much 
 of either. While hot, mix this with as much flour 
 as you will want, making the paste as stiff as you can 
 to be smooth, which you will make it by good knead¬ 
 ing and beating it with the rolling-pin. When quite 
 smooth, put a lump into a cloth, or under a pan, to 
 soak till near cold. 
 
 Those who have not a good hand at raising crust 
 may do thus : Roll the paste of a proper thickness, 
 and cut out the top and bottom of the pie, then a 
 long piece for the sides. Cement the bottom to the 
 sides with egg, bringing the former rather farther 
 out, and pinching both together ; put egg between 
 the edges of the paste, to make it adhere at the 
 sides. Fill your pie, and put on the cover, and 
 pinch it and the side crust together. The same 
 mode of uniting the paste is to be observed if the 
 sides are pressed into a tin form, in which the paste 
 must be baked, after it shall be filled and covered ; 
 but in the latter case, the tin should be buttered, 
 and carefully taken off when done enough ; and as 
 the form usually makes the sides of a lighter colour 
 than is proper, the paste should be put into the oven 
 again for a quarter of an hour. With a feather, 
 put egg over at first. 
 
 PUDDINGS, ETC. 
 
 Observations on making Puddings and Pancakes. 
 
 The outside of a boiled pudding often tastes disa¬ 
 greeably ; which arises by the cloth not being nic» 
 ly washed, and kept in a dry place. It should be 
 dipped in boiling water, squeezed dry, and floured 
 when to be used. 
 
115 
 
 If bread, it should be tied loose ; if batter, tight 
 over. 
 
 The water should boil quick when the pudding is 
 put in ; and it should be moved about for a minute, 
 lest the ingredients should not mix. 
 
 Batter pudding should be strained through a 
 coarse sieve, when all is mixed. In others, the eggs 
 separately. 
 
 The pans and basins must be always buttered. 
 
 A pan of cold water should be ready, and the 
 pudding dipped in as soon as it comes out of the 
 pot, and then it will not adhere to the cloth. 
 
 Very good puddings may be made without eggs, 
 but they must have as little milk as will mix, and 
 must boil three or four hours. A few spoonfuls of 
 fresh small beer, or one of yeast will answer in¬ 
 stead of eggs. 
 
 Or Snow is an excellent substitute for eggs, either 
 in puddings or pancakes. Two large spoonfuls will 
 supply the place of one egg, and the article it is 
 used in will be equally good. 
 
 Note .—The yolks and whites beaten long and se¬ 
 parately, make the article they are put into much 
 lighter. 
 
 Almond Pudding. 
 
 Beat half a pound of sweet and a few bitter al¬ 
 monds with a spoonful of water ; then mix tour 
 ounces of butter, four eggs, two spoonfuls of cream 
 warm with butter one of brandy, a little nutmeg, 
 and sugar to taste. Butter some cups, half fill, and 
 bake the puddings. Serve with butter, wine, and 
 sugar. 
 
 Baked Almond Pudding. 
 
 Beat fine four ounces of almonds, four or five bit¬ 
 ter ditto, with a little wine, yolks of six eggs, peel of 
 two lemons grated, six ounces of butter, near a quart 
 
116 
 
 of cream, and juice of one lemon. When well nnx- 
 «d, bake it half an hour, with paste round the dish. 
 
 Sago Pudding. 
 
 Boil a pint and a half of new milk, with four 
 spoonfuls of sago nicely washed and picked, lemon- 
 peel, cinnamon, and nutmeg ; sweeten to taste ; then 
 mix four eggs, put a paste round the dish, and bake 
 slowly. 
 
 Bread and Butter Pudding. 
 
 Slice bread spread with butter, and lay it in a dish 
 with currants between each layer ; and sliced citron, 
 orange, or lemon; if to be very nice. Pour over 
 an unboiled custard of milk, two or three eggs, a 
 few pimentos, and a very little ratafia, two hours at 
 least, before it is to be baked ; and lard it over to 
 soak the bread. 
 
 A paste round the edge makes all puddings look 
 better, but is not necessarv. 
 
 Orange Pudding. 
 
 Grate the rind of a Seville orange : put to it six 
 ounces of fresh butter, six or eight ounces of lump- 
 sugar pounded : beat them all in a marble mortar, 
 and add as you do it, the whole of eight eggs well 
 beaten and strained ; scrape a raw apple, and mix 
 with the rest; put a paste at the bottom and sides 
 of the dish, and over the orange mixture put cross 
 bars of paste. Half an hour will bake it. 
 
 Another. —Rather more than two table-spoonfuls 
 of the orange paste, mixed with six eggs, fourounc.es 
 of sugar, and four ounces of butter, melted, will 
 make a good sized pudding, with a paste at the bot¬ 
 tom of the dish. Bake tweny minutes. 
 
 An excellent Lemon Pudding. 
 
 Beat the yolk of four eggs ; add four ounces of 
 
117 
 
 white sugar, the rind of a lemon being rubbed with 
 some lumps of it to take the essence : then peel, 
 and beat it in a mortar with the juice of a large 
 lemon and mix all with four or five ounces of butter 
 warmed. Put a crust into a shallow dish, nick the 
 edges, and put the above into it. When served, 
 turn the pudding out of the dish. 
 
 A very fine Amber Pudding. 
 
 Put a pound of butter into a sauce-pan with three 
 quarters of a pound of loaf sugar finely powdered ; 
 melt the butter, and mix well with it ; then add the 
 yolks of fifteen eggs well beaten, and as much fresh 
 candied orange as will add colour and flavour to 
 it, being first beaten to a fine paste. Line the dish 
 with paste for turning out ; and when filled with the 
 above, lay a crust over, as you would a pie, and 
 bake it in a slow oven—It is as good cold as hot. 
 
 Baked apple pudding. 
 
 Pare and quarter four large apples ; boil them 
 tender with the rind of a lemon, in so little water 
 that, when done, none may remain ; beat them 
 quite fine in a mortar ; add the crumb of a small 
 roll, four ounces of butter, melted ; the yolks of 
 five and whites of three eggs, juice of half a lemon, 
 and sugar to taste ; beat all together, and lay it in a 
 dish with paste to turn out. 
 
 Oatmeal pudding 
 
 Pour a quart of boiling milk over a pint of the 
 best fine oatmeal: let it soak all night: next day 
 beat two eggs and mix a little salt, butter a basin 
 that will just hold it ; cover it tight with a floured 
 cloth, and boil it an hour and a half. Eat it with 
 cold butter and salt. 
 
 When cold, slice and toast it, and eat it as oat¬ 
 cake, buttered. 
 
118 
 
 Dutch pudding , or a Sinister. 
 
 Melt one pound of butter in half a pint of milk * 
 mix it into two pounds of flour, eight eggs, four 
 spoonfuls of yeast ; add one pound of currants, and 
 a quarter of a pound of sugar beaten and sifted. An 
 hour will bake it in a quick oven. 
 
 A Dutch rice pudding. 
 
 Soak four ounces of rice in warm water half an 
 hour; drain the latter from it, and throw it into a 
 stew-pan, with half a pint of milk, half a stick of cin¬ 
 namon, and simmer till tender. When cold, add four 
 eggs well beaten, two ounces of butter melted in a 
 tea-cupful of cream ; and put three ounces of sugar, a 
 quarter of a nutmeg, and a good piece oflemon-peel. 
 
 Put a light puff paste into a mould or dish, or 
 grated tops and bottoms, and bake in a quick oven. 
 
 Light or German puddings or puffs. 
 
 Melt three ounces of butter in a pint of cream ; 
 let it stand till nearly cold : then mix two ounces of 
 fine flour, and two ounces of sugar, four yolks and 
 two whites of eggs, and a little rose or orange-flower 
 water. Bake in little cups buttered, half an hour. 
 They should be served the moment they are done, 
 and only when going to be eaten, or they will not be 
 light. Turn out the cups, and serve with white wine 
 and sugar. 
 
 Little Bread Buddings. 
 
 Steep the crumb of a penny loaf, grated, in about 
 a pint of warm milk ; when soaked, beat six eggs, 
 whites and yolks, and mix with the bread, and two 
 ounces of butter warmed, sugar, orange-flower wa¬ 
 ter, a spoonful of brandy, a little nutmeg, and a tea¬ 
 cupful of cream. Beat all well, and bake in tea¬ 
 cups buttered. If currants are chosen, a quarter ol 
 
119 
 
 a pound is suftu o if not they are good without •• 
 or you may put orange or lemon-candy. Serve with 
 pudding-sauce. 
 
 Puddings in haste. 
 
 Shred suet, and put, with grated bread, a few cur¬ 
 rants, the yolks of four eggs and the whites of two, 
 some grated lemon-peel and ginger. Mix, and make 
 into little balls about the size and shape of an egg, 
 with a little flour. 
 
 Have ready a skillet of boiling water, and throw 
 them in. Twenty minutes will boil them ; but they 
 will rise to the top when done. Pudding-sauce. 
 
 JVew College Pudding. 
 
 Grate the crumb of a two penny-loaf, shred suet 
 eight ounces, and mix with eight ounces ofcurrants, 
 one of citron mixed tine, one of orange, a handful of 
 sugar, half a nutmeg, three eggs beaten, yolk and 
 white separately. Mix, and make into the size and 
 shape of a goose-egg. Put half a pound of butter 
 into a frying-pan ; and when melted and quite hot, 
 stew them gently in it over a stove ; turn them two 
 or three times till of a tine light brown. Mix a glass 
 of brand}' with the batter. 
 
 Serve with pudding-sauce. 
 
 Boiled Bread Pudding. 
 
 Grate white bread ; pour boiling milk over it, and 
 cover close. When soaked an hour or two, beat 
 it fine and mix with it two or three eggs well beaten. 
 
 Put it into a basin ihat will just hold it; tie a flour¬ 
 ed cloth over it, and put it into boiling water. Send 
 it up with melted butter poured over. 
 
 It may be eaten with salt or sugar. 
 
 Prunes, or French plums, make a fine pudding 
 instead of raisins, either with suet or bread pudding. 
 
120 
 
 Another and richer .—On half a pint of crumbs of 
 bread pour half a pint of scalding milk ; cover for an 
 hour. Beat up four eggs, and when strained, add to 
 the bread, with a tea-spoonful of flour, an ounce of 
 butter, two ounces of sugar, half a pound of currants, 
 an ounce of almonds beaten, with orange-flower 
 water, half an ounce of orange, ditto lemon, ditto 
 citron. Butter a basin that will exactly hold it, flour 
 the cloth, and tie tight over, and boil one hour. 
 
 Brown Bread Pudding. 
 
 Half a pound of stale brown bread grated, ditto ot 
 currants, ditto of shred suet, sugar and nutmeg, mix 
 with four eggs, a spoonful of brandy, and two spoon¬ 
 fuls of cream ; boil in a cloth or basin that exactly 
 holds it, three or four hours. 
 
 Eve's Pudding. 
 
 Grate three quarters of a pound of bread ; mix it 
 with the same quantity of shred suet, the same of 
 apples, and also of currants ; mix with these the 
 whole of four eggs, and the rind of half a lemon shred 
 tine. Put it into a shape ; boil three hours, and serve 
 with pudding-sauce, thejuice of half a lemon, and a 
 little nutmeg. 
 
 Quaking Pudding. 
 
 Scald a quart of cream; when almost cold, put 
 to it four eggs well beaten, a spoonful and a half of 
 flour, some nutmegs and sugar; tie it close in a but¬ 
 tered cloth, boil it an hour, and turn it out with care, 
 lest it should crack. Melted butter, a little wine, 
 and sugar. 
 
 Transparent Pudding. 
 
 Beat eight eggs very well: put them Into a stew- 
 pan, with half a pound of sugar pounded very fine, 
 the same quantity of butter, and some nutmeg grated. 
 Set it on the fire, and keep stirring it till it thickens 
 
12 . 
 
 Then set it into a basin to cool ; put a rich putt 
 paste round the edge of the dish ; pour in your 
 pudding, and bake it in a moderate oven. It will 
 cut light and clear. — You may add candied orange 
 and citron if you like. 
 
 Batter Pudding. 
 
 Rub three spoonfuls of fine flour extremely 
 smooth by degrees into a pint of milk : simmer till 
 it thickens, stir in two ounces of butter, set it to 
 cool ; then add the yolks of three eggs ; flour a 
 cloth that has been wet, or butter a basin, and put 
 the batter into it ; tie it tight, and plunge it into boil¬ 
 ing water, the bottom upwards. Boil it an hour 
 and a half, and serve with plain butter. If approv¬ 
 ed, a little ginger, nutmeg, and lemon-peel, may he 
 added. Serve with sweet sauce. 
 
 Batter Pudding with meat. 
 
 Make a batter with flour, milk, and eggs ; pour a 
 little into the bottom of a pudding-dish ; then put 
 seasoned meat of any kind into it, and a little shred 
 onion ; pour the remainder of the batter over, and 
 bake in a slow oven. 
 
 Some like a loin of mutton baked in batter, being 
 first cleared of most of the fat. 
 
 Plain Rice Pudding. 
 
 Wash and pick some rice ; throw among it some 
 pimento finely pounded, but not much ; tie the rice 
 in a cloth, and leave plenty of room to swell. Boil 
 it in a quantity of water for an hour or two. When 
 done, eat it with butter and sugar, or milk. Put 
 lemon-peel if you please. It is very good without 
 spice, and eaten with salt and butter. 
 
 A rich Rice pudding. 
 
 Boil half a pound of rice in water, with a little hit 
 of salt, till quite tender, drain it dry; mix it with 
 
 11 
 
122 
 
 the yolks and whites of four eggs, a quarter of a pint 
 of cream, with two ounces of fresh butter melted in 
 the latter, four ounces of beef-suet or marrow, or 
 veal-suet taken from a fillet of veal, finely shred, 
 three quarters of a pound of currants, two spoonfuls 
 of brandy, one of peach-water, or ratafia, nutmeg, 
 and grated lemon-peel. When well mixed, put a 
 paste round the edge and fill the dish. Slices of 
 candied orange, lemon, and citro-n if approved. 
 Bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 Rice Pudding with fruit. 
 
 Swell the rice with a very little milk over the 
 fire ; then mix fruit of any kind with it, (currants, 
 gooseberries scalded, pared and quartered apples, 
 raisins, or black currants ;) with one egg into the 
 rice, to bind it; boil it well and serve with sugar. 
 
 Baked Rice Pudding. 
 
 Swell rice as above ; then add some more milk, 
 an egg, sugar, alspice, lemon-peel. Bake in a deep 
 dish. 
 
 Jin excellent plain Potato Pudding. 
 
 Take eight ounces of boiled potatoes, two ounces 
 of butter, the yolks and whites of two eggs, a quarter 
 of a pint of cream, one spoonful of white wine, a 
 morsel of salt, the juice and rind of a lemon : beat 
 all to froth ; sugar to taste. A crust or not, as you 
 like. Bake it If wanted richer, put three ounces 
 more butter, sweetmeats and almonds, and another 
 egg. 
 
 Potato Pudding with meat. 
 
 Boil them till fit to mash ; rub through a colander, 
 and make into a thick batter with milk and two eggs. 
 Lay some seasoned steaks in a dish, then some 
 batter, and over the last layer pour the remainder 
 of the butter. Bake a fine brown. 
 
123 
 
 Steak or Kindey Pudding. 
 
 if kidney, spilt and soak it, and season that or the 
 meat. Make a paste of suet, flour and milk ; roll 
 it, and line a basin with some ; put the kindey or 
 steaks in, cover with paste, and pinch round the 
 edge. Cover with a cloth, and boil a considerable 
 time. 
 
 Beef-steak pudding. 
 
 Prepare some fine steaks as in page 31 roll them 
 with fat between : and if you approve shred onion, 
 add a very little. Lay a paste of suet in a basin, 
 a put in the rollers of steaks : cover the basin with 
 a paste, and pinch the edges to keep the gravy in. 
 Cover with a cloth tied close : and let the pudding 
 boil slowly, but for a length of time. 
 
 Baked Beef-steak pudding. 
 
 Make a batter of milk, two eggs, and flour, or, 
 which is much better, potatoes boiled and mashed 
 through a colander : lay a little of it at the bottom of 
 Mie dish ; then put in the steaks prepared as above, 
 and very well seasoned ; pour the remainder of the 
 batter over them and bake it. 
 
 Mutton pudding. 
 
 Season with salt, pepper, and a bit of onion : lay 
 one layer of steaks at the bottom of the dish ; and 
 pour a batter of potatoes boiled and pressed through 
 a colander, and mixed with milk and an egg, over 
 them ; then putting the rest of the steaks and batter, 
 bake it. 
 
 Batter with flour, instead of potatoes, eats well, 
 but requires more egg, and is not so good. 
 
 Suet pudding. 
 
 Shred a pound of suet ; mix with a pound and a 
 quarter of flour, two eggs beaten separately, a little. 
 
124 
 
 salt, and as little milk as will make it. Boil four 
 hours. It eats well next day, cut in slices and 
 broiled. 
 
 The outward fat of loins or necks of muttonfmely 
 shred, makes a more delicate pudding than suet 
 
 Veal suet Pudding. 
 
 Cut the crumb of a three penny loafinto slices, boil 
 and sweeten two quarts of new milk, and pour over 
 it. When soaked, pour out a little of the milk ; 
 and mix with six eggs well beaten, and half a nut¬ 
 meg. Lay the slices of bread into a dish ; with lay¬ 
 ers of currants and veal-suet shred, a pound of each. 
 Butter the dish well, and bake ; or you may boil it 
 in a basin, if you prefer it. 
 
 Hunter's Pudding. 
 
 Mix a pound of suet, ditto flour, ditto currants, dit¬ 
 to rasins stoned and a little cut, the rind of half a le¬ 
 mon shred as fine as possible, six Jamaica peppers 
 in fine powder, four eggs, a glass of brandy, a little 
 salt, and as little milk as will make it of a proper 
 consistence ; boil it in a floured cloth, or melon- 
 mould, eight or nine hours. Serve with sweet sauce. 
 Add sometimes a spoonful ofpeach-water, for change 
 of flavour. 
 
 This pudding will keep after it is boiled, six 
 months, if kept tied up in the same cloth, and hung 
 up. folded in a sheet of cap paper to preserve it from 
 dust, being first cold. YVhen to be used, it must 
 boil a full hour. 
 
 Plum Pudding. 
 
 The same proportions of flour and suet, and half 
 the quantity of fruit, with spice, lemon, a glass 
 of wine or not, and one egg, and milk, will make an 
 excellent pudding, if long boiled. 
 
125 
 
 Custard Pudding. 
 
 Mix by degrees a pint of good milk with a large 
 spoonful of flour, the yolks of five eggs, some 
 orange-flower water, and a little pounded cinnamon. 
 Butter a basin that will exactly hold it, pour the bat¬ 
 ter in, and tie a floured cloth over. Put in boiling 
 water over the fire, and turn it about a few minutes 
 to prevent the egg going to one side. Half an hour 
 will boil it. 
 
 Put currant jelly on it, and serve with sweet-sauce. 
 
 Macaroni Pudding. 
 
 Simmer an ounce or two of the pipe-sort, in a pint 
 of milk, and a bit of lemon and cinnamon, till tender ; 
 put it into a dish, with milk, two or three eggs, but 
 only one white, sugar, nutmeg, a spoonful of peach- 
 water, and half a glass of raisin wine. Bake with a 
 paste round the edges. 
 
 A layer of orange-marmalade, or raspberry-jam, 
 in a macaroni pudding for change, is a great im¬ 
 provement, in which case omit the almond-water, or 
 ratafia, which you would otherwise flavour it with. 
 
 An excellent Apricot Pudding. 
 
 Halve twelve large apricots, give them a scald till 
 they are soft; mean lime pour on the grated crumbs 
 of a penny loaf, a pint of boiling cream ; when half¬ 
 cold, four ounces of sugar, the yolks of four beaten 
 eggs, and a glass of white-wine. Pound the apri¬ 
 cots in a mortar, with some or all of the kernels ; 
 mix then the fruit and other ingredients together ; 
 put a paste round a dish, and bake the pudding half 
 an hour. 
 
 Baked Gooseberry Pudding. 
 
 Stew gooseberries in a jar over a hot hearth, or in 
 a sauce-pan of water, till they will pulp. Take a 
 
 11 * ? 
 
126 
 
 pint of the juice pressed through a coarse sieve, and 
 beat it with three yolks and whites of eggs beaten and 
 strained, one ounce and a half of butter ; sweeten it 
 well, and put a crust round the dish. A few crumbs 
 of roll should be mixed with the above to give a lit¬ 
 tle consistence, or four ounces of Naples biscuit. 
 
 Brandy Pudding. 
 
 Line a mould with jar-raisins, stoned or dried cher¬ 
 ries, then with thin slices of French roll, next to 
 which put ratafias, or macaroons ; then the fruit, 
 rolls, and cakes, in succession until the mould be 
 full ; sprinkling in at times two glasses of brandy. 
 Beat four eggs, yolks and whites ; put to a pint of 
 milk or cream, lightly sweetened, half a nutmeg, and 
 the rind of half a lemon finely grated. Let the li¬ 
 quid sink into the solid part ; then flour a cloth, tie 
 it tight over, and boil one hour; keep the mould 
 the right side up. Serve with pudding-sauce. 
 
 Boiled Curd Pudding. 
 
 Rub the curd of two gallons of milk well drained 
 through a sieve. Mix it with six eggs, a little cream, 
 two spoonfuls of orange-flower water, half a nut¬ 
 meg, flour and crumbs of bread each three spoon¬ 
 fuls, currants and raisins half a pound each. Boil 
 an hour in a thick well-floured cloth. 
 
 Pippin pudding. 
 
 Coddle six pippins in vine-leaves covered with 
 water, very gently, that the inside be done without 
 rebakiig the skins. When soft, skin, and with a tea¬ 
 spoon take the pulp from the core. Press it through 
 a colander ; add two spoonfuls of orange-flower 
 water, three eggs beaten, a glass of raisin-wine, a 
 pint of scalded cream, sugar and nutmeg to taste. 
 Lay a thin puff prate at the bottom and sides of the 
 dish : shred ve r thin lemon-peel as fine as possi- 
 
127 
 
 ble, and put it into the dish ; likewise lenv>ti, orange, 
 and citron, in small slices,, but not so thin as to dis¬ 
 solve in baking. 
 
 A quick made pudding. 
 
 Flour and suet half a pound each, four eggs, a 
 quarter of a pint of new milk, a little mace and nut¬ 
 meg, a quarter of a pound of raisins, ditto of cur¬ 
 rants : mix well, and boil three quarters of an hour 
 with the cover of the pot on, or it will require 
 longer. 
 
 Russian seed , or ground Rice pudding. 
 
 Boil a large spoonful heaped, of either, in a pint 
 of new milk, with lemon-peel and cinnamon. When 
 cold add sugar, nutmeg and two eggs well beaten. 
 Bake with a crust around the dish. 
 
 A Welsh pudding. 
 
 Let half a pound of fine butter melt gently, beat 
 with it the yolks of eight and whites of four eggs, 
 mix in six ounces of loaf sugar, and the rind of a 
 lemon grated. Put a paste into a dish for turning 
 out, and pour the above in, and nicely bake it. 
 
 Suet Dumplings. 
 
 Make as suet pudding, and drop into boiling 
 water, or into the boiling of beef; or you may 
 boil them in a cloth. 
 
 Apple, Currant, o r Damson dumplings: or puddings. 
 
 Make as above, and line a basin with a paste 
 tolerably thin ; fill with the fruit, and cover it; tie 
 a cloth over tight, and boil till the fruit shall be done 
 enough. 
 
 Yeast or Suffolk Dumplings. 
 
 Make a very light dough with yeast, as for bread, 
 but with milk instead of water, and put salt. Let it 
 rise an hour before the fire. 
 
 Twenty minutes before you are to serve, have 
 
128 
 
 ••eady a large stew-pan of boiling water ; make the 
 dough into balls, the size of a middling apple; 
 throw them in, and boil twenty minutes. If you 
 doubt when done enough, stick a clean fork into 
 one, and if it come out clear, it is done. 
 
 The way to eat them is, to tear them apart on the 
 top with two forks, for they become heavy by theii 
 own steam. Eat immediately with meat, sugar and 
 butter, or salt. 
 
 Common Pancakes. 
 
 Make a light batter of eggs, flour and milk. Fry 
 in a small pan, in hot dripping or lard. Salt or nut¬ 
 meg and ginger, may be added. Sugar and lemon 
 should be served to eat with them. Or, when eggs 
 are scarce, make the batter with flour, and small 
 beer, ginger, &.c. or clean snow, with flour, and a 
 very little milk, will serve as w ell as egg. 
 
 Fine Pancakes, without butter or lard. 
 
 Beat six fresh eggs, extremely well , mix, when 
 strained, with a pint of cream, four ounces of sugar, 
 a glass of wine, half a nutmeg grated, and as much 
 flour as will make it almost as thick as ordinary pan¬ 
 cake-batter, but not quite. Heat the frying pan 
 tolerably hot, wipe it with a clean cloth ■, then pour 
 in the batter to make thin pancakes. 
 
 Pancakes of Rice. 
 
 Boil half a pound of rice to a jelly, in a small 
 quantity of water : w'hen cold, mix it with a pint of 
 cream, eight eggs, a bit of salt, and nutmeg; stir in 
 eight ounces of butter just warmed, and add as much 
 flour as will make the batter thick enough. Fry in 
 as little lard or dripping as possible. 
 
 New-EnglanJ Pancakes. 
 
 Mix a pint of cream, five spoonfuls of fine flour , 
 
129 
 
 seven yolks, and four whites of eggs, and a very lit¬ 
 tle salt; fry them very thin in fresh butter, and be¬ 
 tween each strew sugar and cinnamon. Send up 
 six or eight at once. 
 
 Fritters. 
 
 Make them of any of the batters directed for pan¬ 
 cakes, by dropping a small quantity into the pan ; 
 or make the plainer sort, and put pared apple sliced 
 and cored into the batter, and fry some of it with each 
 slice. Currants or sliced lemons as thin as paper, 
 make an agreeable change. Fritters for company 
 should be served on a folded napkin in the dish. 
 Any sort of sweatmeats, or ripe fruit, may be made 
 into fritters. 
 
 Spanish Fritters. 
 
 Cut the crumb of a French roll into lengths, as 
 thick as your finger, in what shape you will. Soak 
 in some cream, nutmeg, sugar, pounded cinnamon, 
 and an egg. When well soaked, fry of a nice brown ; 
 and serve with butter, wine, and sugar-sauce. 
 
 Potato Fritters. 
 
 Boil two large potatoes, scrape them fine ; beat 
 four yolks and three whites of eggs, and add to the 
 above one large spoonful of cream, another of sweet 
 wine, a squeeze of lemon, and a little nutmeg. 
 Beat this batter half an hour at least. It will be ex¬ 
 tremely light. 
 
 Put a good quantity of fine lard in a stew-pan, 
 and drop a spoonful of the batter at a time into it. 
 Fry them ; and serve as a sauce, a glass of white 
 wine, the juice of a lemon, one dessert-spoonful of 
 peach-leaf or almond-water, and some white sugar, 
 warmed together ; not to be served in the dish. 
 
130 
 
 ' *■> PASTRY. 
 
 Rich puff paste 
 
 Puffs may be made of any sort of fruit, but it 
 should be prepared first with sugar. 
 
 Weigh an equal quantity of butter with as much 
 fine flour as you judge necessary ; mix a little of the 
 former with the latter, and wet it with as little water 
 as will make it into a stiff paste. Roll it out, and 
 put all the butter over it in slices, turn in the ends, 
 and roll it thin : do this twice, and touch it no more 
 than can be avoided. The butter may be added at 
 twice, and to those who are not accustomed to make 
 paste, it may be better to do so. 
 
 A quicker oven than for short crust. 
 
 A less rich paste. 
 
 Weigh a pound of flour, and a quarter of a pound 
 of butter, rub them together, and mix into a paste 
 with a little water, and an egg well beaten— of the 
 former as little as will suffice, or the paste will be 
 tough. Roll, and fold it three or four times. 
 
 Rub extremely fine in one pound of dried flour, 
 six *’nces of butter, and a spoonful of white sugar ; 
 work up the whole into a stiff paste with as little hot 
 water as possible. 
 
 Crust for Venison pastry. 
 
 To a quarter of a peck of fine flour use two pounds 
 and a half of butter, and four eggs ; mix into paste 
 with warm water, and work it smooth and to a good 
 consistence. Put a paste round the inside, but not 
 to the bottom of the dish, and let the cover be pret¬ 
 ty thick, to bear the long continuance in the oven. 
 
 Rice paste for sweets. 
 
 Boil a quarter of a pound of ground rice in the 
 .smallest quantity of water: strain from it all the 
 
moisture as well as you can ; beat it in a mortar with 
 half an ounce of butter, and one egg well beaten, 
 and it will make an excellent paste for tarts, &c. 
 
 Rice paste for relishing things. 
 
 Clean and put some rice, with an onion, and a lit¬ 
 tle water and milk, or milk only, into a sauce-pan, 
 and simmer till it swell. Put seasoned chops into a 
 dish, and cover it with the rice ; by the addition of 
 an egg, the rice will adhere the better. 
 
 Rabbits fricasseed and covered thus, are very good-. 
 
 Potato paste. 
 
 Pound boiled potatoes very fine, and add, while 
 warm, a sufficiency of butter to make the mash hold 
 together, or you may mix with it an egg ; then before 
 /tgets cold, Hour the board pretty well to prevent it 
 from slicking, and roll it to the thickness wanted. 
 
 If it is become quite cold before it be put on the 
 dish, it will be apt to crack. 
 
 Raised crust for Custards or Fruit. 
 
 Put four ounces of butter into a sauce-pan, with 
 water, and when it boils, pour it into as much flour 
 as you choose ; knead and beat it. Cover it. Raise 
 it; and if for custard, put a paper within to keep 
 out the sides till half-done, then fill with a cold mix¬ 
 ture of milk, egg, sugar, and a little peach-water, 
 lemon-peel or nutmeg. By cold is meant that the 
 egg is not to be warmed, but the milk should be 
 warmed by itself—not to spoil the crust. 
 
 The above butter will make a great deal of raised 
 crust, which must not be rich, or it will be difficult 
 to prevent the sides from falling. 
 
 Excellent short Crust. 
 
 Make two ounces of white sugar, pounded and 
 sifted quite dry ; then mix it with a pound of flour 
 
132 
 
 well dried, rub into it three ounces of butter, so 
 tine as not to be seen—into some cream put the yolks 
 of two eggs, beaten, and mix the above into a smooth 
 paste ; roll it thin, and bake it in a moderate oven 
 
 Another. —Mix with a pound of fine flour dried, 
 an ounce of sugar pounded and sifted, then crumble 
 three ounces of butter in it, till it looks all like flour, 
 and with a gill of boiling cream, work it up to a fine 
 paste. 
 
 A very fine Crust for Orange Cheesecakes , or Sweet- 
 meats, when to be particularly nice. 
 
 Dry a pound of the finest flour, mix with it three 
 ounces of refined sugar ; then work half a pound of 
 butter with your hand till it come to froth ; put the 
 flour into it by degrees, and work into it, well beaten 
 and strained, the yolks of three and whites of two 
 eggs. If too limber, put some flour and sugar to 
 make it fit to roll. Line your pattypans, and fill. 
 A little above fifteen minutes will bake them. 
 Against they come out, have ready some refined su¬ 
 gar beat up with the white of an egg, as thick as you 
 can ; ice them all over, set them in the oven to 
 harden, and serve cold. Use fresh butter. 
 
 Salt butter will make a very fine flaky crust; but 
 if for mince-pies, or any sweet things, should be 
 washed. 
 
 Observations on Pastry. 
 
 An adept in pastry never leaves any part of it ad¬ 
 hering to the board, or dish, used in making. It is 
 best when rpHed on marble, or a very large slate. 
 In very hot weather, the butter should be put into 
 cold water to make it as firm as possible; and if 
 made early in the morning, and preserved from the 
 air until it is to be baked, the cook will find it much 
 better. A good hand at pastry will use much less 
 
133 
 
 butter, and produce lighter crust, than others. Salt 
 butter, if very good and well washed, makes a fine 
 flaky crust. 
 
 Apple Pic. 
 
 Pare and core the fruit, having wiped the outside ; 
 which, with the cores, boil with a little water till it 
 taste well : strain and put a little sugar, and a bit of 
 bruised cinnamon, and simmer again. In the mean 
 time place the apples in a dish, a paste being put 
 round the edge ; when one la^er is in, sprinkle half 
 the sugar, and shred lemon-peel, and squeeze some 
 juice, or a glass of cider. If the apples have lost 
 their spirit, put in the rest of the apples, sugar, and 
 the liquor that you have boiled. Cover with paste. 
 You may add some butter when cut, if eaten hot; 
 or put quince-marmalade ; orange-paste, or cloves, 
 to flavour. 
 
 Hot Apple Pie ,—Make with the fruit ; sugar, and 
 a clove, and put a bit of butter in when cut open. 
 
 Cherry Pie, * 
 
 Should have a mixture of other fruit; currant^ 
 or raspberries, or both. • 
 
 Currant Pie. 
 
 With or without raspberries. 
 
 Mince Pie. 
 
 Of scraped beef free from the skin and strings, 
 weigh 21b, 41b of suet picked and chopped, then 
 add 61b of currants nicely cleaned anchperfectly dry, 
 31b of chopped apples, the peel and juice of two le¬ 
 mons, a pint of sweet wine, a nutmeg, a quarter of 
 an ounce of cloves, ditto mace, ditto pimento, iu 
 finest powder: press the whole into a deep pan 
 when well mixed ; and keep it covered in a cool 
 dry place. Half the quantity is enough, unless for 
 a very large family. 
 
 18 
 
134 
 
 Have citron, orange, and lemon-peel ready, and 
 put some of each in the pies when made. 
 
 Mince pies without meat. 
 
 Of the best apples six pounds, pared, cored, and 
 minced : of fresh suet, and raisins stone , each 
 three pounds, likewise minced : to these add of 
 mace and cinnamon, a quarter of an ounc 1 each, 
 and eight cloves, in finest powder, three pounds of 
 the finest powder sugar, three quarters of an ounce 
 of salt, the rinds of four and juice of two lemons, 
 half a pint of port, the same of brandy. Mix well,- 
 and put intq a deep pan. 
 
 Have read}' washed and dried four pounds of cur¬ 
 rants, and add as you make the pies, with candied 
 fruit. 
 
 Lemon Mince pies. 
 
 Squeeze a large lemon, boil the outside till ten¬ 
 der enough to beat to a mash, add to it three large 
 apples chopped, and four ounces of suet, half a 
 pound of currants, four ounces of sugar ; put the 
 juice of the lemon, and candied fruit, as for other 
 pies. Make a short crust, and fill the pattypans as 
 usual. 
 
 Egg Mince pies. 
 
 Boil six eggs hard, shred them small ; shred 
 oouble the quantity of suet; then put currants 
 washed and pickled, one pound, or more if the eggs 
 were large ; the peel of one lemon shred very fine, 
 and the juice, six spoonfuls of sweet wine, mace, 
 nutmeg, sugar, a very little salt; orange, lemon, 
 and citron, candied. Make a light paste for them. 
 
 Currant and Raspberry. 
 
 For a tart, line the dish, put sugar and fruit, lay 
 Lars across, and bake 
 
135 
 
 Light Paste for Tarts and Cheesecakes. 
 
 Beat the white of an egg to a strong froth, then 
 mix it with as much water as will make three quar¬ 
 ters of a pound of fine flour into a very sfiff paste ; 
 roll it very thin, then lay the third part of half a 
 pound of butter upon it in little bits ; dredge it with 
 some flour left out at first, and roll it up tight. Roll 
 it out again, and put the same proportion of butter ; 
 and so proceed till all be worked up. 
 
 Iceingfor Tarts. 
 
 Beat the yolk of an egg and some melted butter 
 well together, wash the tarts with a feather, and sift 
 sugar over as you put them into the oven. Or beat 
 white of egg, wash the paste, and sift white sugar. 
 
 Pippin Tarts. 
 
 Pare thin two Seville or China oranges, boil the 
 peel tender and shred it fine : pare and core twenty 
 apples, put them in a stew-pan, and as little water as 
 possible ; when half-done, add half a pound of su¬ 
 gar, the orange-peel and juice ; boil (ill pretty thick. 
 When cold, put it in a shallow disk, or pattypans 
 lined with paste, to turn out, and be eaten cold. 
 
 Prune Tart. 
 
 Give prunes a scald, take out the stones and break 
 them ; put the kernels into a little cranberry-juice, 
 with the prunes and sugar, simmer: and when cold 
 make a tart of the sweetmeat. 
 
 Orange Tart. 
 
 Squeeze, pulp, and boil two Seville oranges ten¬ 
 der, weigh them, and double of sugar ; beat both to 
 gether to a paste, and then add the juice and pulp of 
 the fruit, and the size of a walnut of fresh butter, and 
 beat all together. Choose a very shallow dish, line 
 it with a light puff crust, and lay the paste ot orange 
 
 ■* You may ice it. 
 
Codlin Tart. 
 
 Scald the fruit as will be directed under that arti¬ 
 cle ; when ready, take off the thin skin, and lay them 
 whole in a dish, put a little of the water that the ap¬ 
 ples were boiled in at bottom, strew them over with 
 lump sugar or fine Lisbon : when cold, put a paste 
 round the edges and over. 
 
 You may wet it with white of egg, and strew su¬ 
 gar over, which looks well : or cut the lid in quar¬ 
 ters, without touching the paste on the edge of the 
 dish ; and either put the broad end downwards, and 
 make the point stand up, or remove the lid alto¬ 
 gether. Pour a good custard over it when cold ; 
 sift sugar over. 
 
 Or line the bottom of a shallow dish w’ith paste, 
 lay the apples in it, sweeten, and lay little twists of 
 paste over in bars. 
 
 Raspberry Tart with Cream. 
 
 Roll out some thin puff-paste, and lay it in a patty¬ 
 pan of what size you choose ; put in raspberries ; 
 strew over them fine sugar ; cover with a thin lid, 
 and then bake. Cut it open; and have ready the 
 following mixture, warm ; half a pint of cream, the 
 yolks of two or three eggs well beaten, and a little 
 sugar ; and when this is added to the tart, return it 
 to the oven for five or six minutes. 
 
 Fried Patties. 
 
 Mince a bit of cold veal, and six oysters ; mix with 
 a few crumbs of bread ; salt, pepper, nutmeg, and 
 a very small bit of lemon-peel—add the liquor of the 
 oysters ; warm all in a tosser, but do not boil; let it 
 go cold : have ready a good puff paste, roll thin, 
 and cut it in round or square bits; put some of the 
 above between two of them, twist the edges to keep 
 
137 
 
 in the gravy, and fry them of a fine brown. Wash 
 all patties over with egg before baking. 
 
 Oyster Patties. 
 
 Put a fine puff-crust into small patty-pans, and 
 cover with paste, with a bit of bread in each ; and 
 against they are baked have ready the following to 
 fill with, taking out the bread. Take off the beards 
 of the oysters, cut the other parts in small bits ; put 
 them in a small tosser with a grate of nutmeg, the 
 least white pepper and salt, a morsel of lemon-peel ; 
 cut so small that you can scarcely see it, a little 
 cream, and a little of the oyster liquor. Simmer a 
 few minutes before you fill. Observe to put a bit 
 of crust into all patties, to keep them hollow while 
 baking. 
 
 Lobster Patties. 
 
 Make with the same seasoning, a little cream, and 
 the smallest bit of butter. 
 
 Podovies, or Beef Patties. 
 
 Shred under-done dressed beef with a little fat, 
 season with pepper, salt, and a little shallot or onion. 
 Make a plain paste, roll it thin, and cut in shape 
 like an apple puff, fill it with mince, pinch the edges, 
 and fry them of .1 nice brown. The paste should be 
 made with a small quantity of butter, egg, and milk. 
 
 Veal Patties. 
 
 Mince some veal that is not quite done, with a lit¬ 
 tle parsley, lemon-peel, a scrape of nutmeg, and a 
 bit of salt; add a little cream and gravy just to mois¬ 
 ten the meat ; and if you have any ham, scrape a 
 little, and add to it. Do not warm it till the patties 
 are baked. 
 
 Turkey Patties. 
 
 Mince some of the white part, and with grated 
 lemon, nutmeg, salt, a very little white pepper, 
 
 1 2 * 
 
133 
 
 cream, and a very little bit of butter warmed, fill the 
 patties. 
 
 Sweet Patties. 
 
 Chop the meat of a boiled calf’s foot, of whicn 
 you use the liquor for jelly, two apples, one ounce 
 of orange and lemon-peel candied, and some freSh 
 peel and juice ; mix with them half a nutmeg grated, 
 the yolk of an egg, a spoonful of brandy, and four 
 ounces of currants washed and dried. Bake in small 
 pattypans. 
 
 Patties resembling Mince Pies. 
 
 Chop tne kidney and fat of cold veal, apple, 
 orange and lemon-peel candied, and fresh currants, 
 a little wine, two or three cloves, a little brandy, 
 and a bit of sugar. Bake as before 
 
 Apple Puffs. 
 
 Fare the fruit, and either stew them in a stone 
 jar on a hot hearth, or bake them. When cold, mix 
 the pulp of the apple with sugar and lemon-peel, 
 shred fine, taking as little of the apple juice as you 
 can. Bake them in a thin paste, in a quick oven ; a 
 quarter of an hour will do them, if small. Orange 
 or quince marmalade is a great improvement. Cin¬ 
 namon pounded, or orange-flower water, in change. 
 
 Lemon Puffs. 
 
 Beat and sift a pound and a quarter of double-re¬ 
 fined sugar ; grate the rind of two large lemons, and 
 mix it well with sugar : then beat the whites of 
 three new-laid eggs a great while, add them to the 
 sugar and peel, and beat it for an hour ; make it up 
 in any shape you please, and bake it on paper put on 
 tin plates, in a moderate oven. Do not remove the 
 paper till cold. Oiling; the paper will make it come 
 off with ease. 
 
139 
 
 Cheese P'ffs. 
 
 Strain cheese-curd from the whey, and beat half a 
 pint basin of it fine in a mortar, with a spoonful and 
 a halfofflour, three eggs, but only one white, a spoon¬ 
 ful of orange-flower water, a quarter of a nutmeg, and 
 sugar to make it pretty sweet. Lay a little of this 
 paste in very small round cakes, on a tin plate. If 
 the oven is hot, a quarter of an hour will bake them. 
 Serve with pudding-sauce. 
 
 Excellent light Puffs. 
 
 Mix two spoonfuls of flour, a little grated lemon- 
 peel, some nutmeg, half a spoonful of brandy, a lit¬ 
 tle loaf sugar, and one egg ; then fry it enough, but 
 not brown ; beat it in a mortal with five eggs, whites 
 and yolks ; put a quantity of lard in a frying-pan, and 
 when quite hot, drop a dessert-spoonful of butter at a 
 time : turn as they brown. Serve them immediate¬ 
 ly with sweet sauce. 
 
 To preserve Venison for Pasty. 
 
 Take the bones out, then season and beat the meat, 
 lay it into a stone jar in large pieces, pour upon it 
 some plain drawn beef gravy, but not a strong one, 
 lay the bones on the top, then set the jar in a water- 
 bath, that is, a sauce-pan of water over the fire, sim¬ 
 mer three or four hours—then leave it in a cold 
 place till next day. Remove the cake of fat, lay the 
 meat in handsome pieces on the dish ; if not suffi¬ 
 ciently seasoned, add more pepper, salt, or pimento, 
 as necessary. Put some of the gravy, and keep the 
 remainder for the time of serving. If the venison 
 be thus prepared, it will not require so much time 
 to bake, or such a very thick crust as is usual, and 
 by which the under part is seldom done through. 
 
 Venison Pasty. 
 
 A shoulder boned makes a good pasty, but it must 
 
140 
 
 be beaten and seasoned, and the want of fat supplied 
 by that of a fine well-hung loin of mutton, steeped 
 twenty-four hours in equal parts of raDe, vinegar, 
 and port. 
 
 The shoulder being sinewy, it will be of advan¬ 
 tage to rub it well with sugar for two or three days ; 
 and when to be used, wipe it perfectly clean from it, 
 and the wine. 
 
 A mistake used to prevail, that venison could not 
 be baked too much ; but, as above directed, three 
 or four hours in a slow oven will be sufficient to make 
 it tender, and the flavour will be preserved. Either 
 in shoulder or side, the meat must be cut in pieces, 
 and laid with fat between, that it may be proportion¬ 
 ed to each person, without breaking np the pasty to 
 find it. Lay some pepper and salt at the bottom of 
 the dish, and some butter ; then the meat nicely 
 packed, that it may be sufficiently done, but not lie 
 hollow to harden at the edges. 
 
 The venison bones should be boiled with some 
 fine old mutton ; of this gravy put half a pint cold 
 into the dish ; then lay butter on the venison, and 
 cover, as well as line the sides with a thick cru6t, 
 but do not put one under the meat. Keep the re¬ 
 mainder of the gravy till the pastry comes from the 
 oven ; put it into the middle by a funnel quite hot, 
 and shake the dish to mix well. It should be sea¬ 
 soned with pepper and salt. 
 
 To make a Pasty of Beef or Mutton , to eat as well 
 as Venison. 
 
 Bone a small rump or apiece of sirloin of beef, or 
 a fat loin of mutton, after hanging several days. — 
 Beat it very well with a rolling-pin, then rub ten 
 pounds of meat with four ounces of sugar, and pour 
 ovpr it a glass of port, and the same of vinegar. Let 
 
141 
 
 it lie live days and nights; wash and wipe the meat 
 very dry, and season it very high with pepper, Ja¬ 
 maica pepper, nutmeg, and salt. Lay it in your dish, 
 and to ten pounds put one pound or near of butter, 
 spreading it over the meat. Put a crust round the 
 edges and cover with a thick one, or it will be over¬ 
 done before the meat be soaked : it must be done in 
 a slow oven. 
 
 Set the bones in a pan in the oven, with no more 
 water than will cover them, and one glass of port, a 
 little pepper and salt, that you may have a little rich 
 gravy to add to the pasty when drawn. 
 
 Note .—Sugar gives a greater shortness, and better 
 flavour to meats than salt, too great a quantity of 
 which hardens—and it is quite as great a preserva¬ 
 tive. 
 
 Potato Pasty. 
 
 Boil, peel, and mash potatoes as fine as possible ; 
 mix them with salt, pepper, and a good bit of butter. 
 Make a paste : roll it out thin like a large puff, and 
 put in the potato ; fold over one half, pinching the 
 edges. Bake in a moderate oven. 
 
 Cheap and excellent Custards. 
 
 Boil three pints of new milk, w ith a bit of lemon- 
 peel, a bit of cinnamon, two or three bay-leaves, and 
 sweeten it. Meanwhile rub down smooth, a large 
 spoonful of rice-flour into a cup of cold milk, and 
 mix with it two yolks of eggs well beaten. Take a 
 basin of the boiling milk and mix with the cold, and 
 then pour that to the boiling ; stirring it one way 
 till it begins to thicken, and is just going to boil up ; 
 and then pour it into a pan, stir it some time, add a 
 large spoonful of peach-water, two spoonfuls of bran¬ 
 dy, or a little ratafia. 
 
 Marbles boiled in custard, or any thing likely to 
 
142 
 
 burn, will, by snamug them m the sauce-pan, pxe* 
 vent it from catching. 
 
 Rich Custard. 
 
 Boil a pint of milk with lemon-peel and cinnamon, 
 mix a pint of cream, and the yolks of five eggs well 
 beaten ; when the milk tastes ofthe seasoning, sweet¬ 
 en it enough for the whole ; pour it into the cream, 
 stirring it well ; then give the custard a simmer till 
 of a proper thickness. Do not let it boil ; stir the 
 whole time one way ; season as above. If to be ex¬ 
 tremely rich, put no milk, but a quart of cream to 
 the egg. 
 
 Baked Custard. 
 
 Boil one pint of cream, half a pint of milk, with 
 mace, cinnamon, and lemon-peel, a little of each. — 
 When cold, mix the yolks of three eggs ; sweeten, 
 and make your cups or paste nearly full. Bake them 
 ten minutes. 
 
 Lemon Custard. 
 
 Beat the yo ks of eight eggs till they are as white 
 as milk ; then put to them a pint of boiling water, the 
 rinds of two lemons grated, and the juice sweetened 
 to your taste. Stir it on the fire till thick enough ; 
 then add a large glass of rich wine, and half a glass 
 of brandy ; give the whole one scald, and put in 
 cups to be eaten cold. 
 
 Almond Custard. 
 
 Blanch and beat four ounces of almonds fine, with 
 a spoonful of water ; beat a pint of cream with two 
 spoonfuls of rose-water, and put them to the yolks 
 of four eggs, and as much sugar as will make it pret¬ 
 ty sweet ; then add the almonds : stir it all over a 
 slow fire till it is of a proper thickness, but do not 
 boil. Pour it into cups. 
 
CheesecaK.es. 
 
 Strain the whey from the curd of two quarts of 
 milk ; when rather dry, crumble it through a coarse 
 sieve, and mix with six ounces of fresh butter, one 
 ounce of pounded blanched almonds, a little orange- 
 flower water, half a glass of raisin-wine, a grated 
 biscuit, four ounces of currants, some nutmeg and 
 cinnamon in fine powder, and beat all the above with 
 three eggs, and half a pint of cream, till auite light : 
 then fill the pattypans three parts full. 
 
 A plainer sort. 
 
 Turn three quarts of milk to curd, break it, and 
 drain the whe}^ ; when dry, break it in a pan, with 
 tw'o ounces of butter, till perfectly smooth ; put to 
 it a pint and a half of thin cream, or good milk, and 
 add sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and three ounces of 
 currants. 
 
 Lemon Cheesecakes. 
 
 Mix four ounces of sifted lump-sugar and four 
 ounces of butter, and gently melt it; then add the 
 yolks of two and the white of one egg, and the rind 
 of three lemons shred fine, and the juice of one and 
 a half, one Savoy biscuit, some blanched almonds 
 pounded, three spoonfuls ofbrandy ; mix well, and 
 put in paste made as follows : eight ounces of flour, 
 six ounces of butter : two thirds of which mix with 
 the flour first ; then wet it with six spoonfuls of wa¬ 
 ter, and roll the remainder in. 
 
 Orange Cheesecakes. 
 
 When you have blanched half a pound of almonds, 
 beat them very fine, with orange-flower water, and 
 half a pound of fine sugar beaten and sifted, a pound 
 of butter that has been melted carefully without oil¬ 
 ing, and which must be nearly cold before you use 
 it; then beat the yolks of ten and whites of four 
 
144 
 
 eggs ; pound two candied oranges, and a fresh one 
 with the bitterness boiled out, in a mortar, till as 
 tender as marmalade, without any lumps ; and beat 
 the whole together, and put into pattypans 
 Potato Cheesecakes. 
 
 Boil six ounces of potatoes, and four ounces of 
 lemon-peel ; beat the latter in a mortar, with four 
 ounces of sugar ; then add the potatoes, beaten, and 
 four ounces of butter melted in a little cream. 
 When well mixed, lei it stand to grow cold. Put 
 crust in pattypans, and rather more than half fill 
 them. Bake in a quick oven half an hour; sifting 
 some double refined sugar on them when going to 
 the oven. This quantity will make a dozen. 
 
 Almond Cheesecakes. 
 
 Blanch and pound four ounces of almonds, and a 
 few bitter, with a spoonful of water ; then add four 
 ounces of sugar pounded, a spoonful of cream, and 
 the whites of two eggs well beaten ; mix all as 
 quick as possible ; put into very- small pattypans, 
 and hake in a pretty warm oven under twenty mb 
 nutes. 
 
 Another way .—Blanch and pound four ounces of 
 almonds, with a little orange flower or rose water, 
 then stir in the yolks of six and whites of three eggs, 
 well beaten, five ounces of butter warmed, the peel 
 of a lemon grated, and a little of the juice ; sweet¬ 
 en with fine Lisbon sugar. When well mixed, bake 
 in a delicate paste, in small pans. 
 
 vegetables 
 
 Observations an dressing Vegetables. 
 
 Vegetables should be carefully cleaned from in 
 ssets and nicely washed. Boil them in plenty o& 
 
145 
 
 water, and drain them the moment they are donfc 
 enough. If overboiled, they lose their beauty and 
 crispness. Bad cooks sometimes dress them with 
 meat; which is wrong, except carrots with boiling 
 beef. 
 
 To boil Vegetables green. 
 
 Be sure the water boils when you put them in. 
 Make them boil very fast. Do not cover, but wash 
 them ; and if the water has not slackened, you may 
 be sure they are done when they begin to sink. 
 Then take them out immediately, or the colour will 
 change. Hard water, especially if chalybeat, spoils 
 the colour of such vegetables as should be green. 
 
 To boil them green in hard water, put a tea-spoon¬ 
 ful of salt of wormwood into the water when it boils, 
 before the vegetables are put in. 
 
 Boiled Peas 
 
 Should not be overdone, nor in much water. Chop 
 some scalded mint to garnish them, and stir a piece 
 of butter in with them. 
 
 To stew green Peas. 
 
 Put a quart of peas, a lettuce and an onion both 
 sliced, a bit of butter, pepper, and no more water 
 than hangs round the lettuce from washing. Stew 
 them two hours very gently. When to be served, 
 beat up an egg, and stir it into them : or a bit of 
 flour and butter. 
 
 Some think a tea-spoonful of white powdered su¬ 
 gar is an improvement. Gravy may be added ; but 
 then there will be less of the flavour of the peas. — 
 Chop a bit of mint, and stew in them. 
 
 To stew old Peas. 
 
 Steep them in water all night, if not tine boilers ; 
 otherwise only half an hour ; put them into water 
 
 13 
 
146 
 
 enough just to cover them, with a good bit of butter 
 or a piece of beef or pork. Stew them very 
 till the peas are soft, and the meat is tender, if it» 
 not salt meat, add salt and a little pepper. Serv 
 
 them round the meat 
 
 To dress Artichoites. 
 
 Trim a few of the outside leaves off, “f 
 
 stalk even. If young, half an hour will boil them. 
 They are better for being gathered two or three days 
 hrst: Serve them with melted butter in as many small 
 cups as there are artichokes, to help with each. 
 
 Artichoke Bottoms. 
 
 If dried, they must be soaked, then stewed in 
 weak gravy, and served with or without forcemeat 
 in each. Or they may be boiled in milk, and served 
 with cream sauce ; or added to ragouts, French pies, 
 kc. 
 
 To stew Cucumbers. 
 
 Slice them thick : or halve and divide them into 
 two lengths ; stew some salt and pepper, and sliced 
 onions : add a little broth, or a bit of butter. Sun. 
 mev very slowly ; and before serving, if no butter 
 was in before, put some, and a little flour ; or if there 
 was butter in, only a little flour ; unless it wants rich¬ 
 ness. 
 
 To stew onions. 
 
 Feel six large onions ; fry gently of a fine brown, 
 but do not blacken them ; then put them into a small 
 stew-pan, with a little weak gravy, P£PP er ’ ands jT ’ 
 cover and stew two hours gently. They should be 
 
 lightly floured at first. 
 
 To stew Celery. 
 
 Wash six heads, and strip off their outer leaves ; 
 either halve, or leave them whole, according to 
 Uieir size *, cut into lengths of four inches. Fut in- 
 
147 
 
 to a stew-pan with a cup ot oroth, or weaK white 
 <r ra vy, stew till tender , then add two spoonfuls ot 
 cream, and a little flour and butter seasoned with 
 pepper, salt, and nutmeg, and simmer all together. 
 
 To boil Cauliflowers. 
 
 Choose those that are close and white. Cut off 
 the green leaves, and look carefully that there, are 
 no caterpillars about the stalk. Soak an hour in 
 cold wmter: then boil them in milk and water ; and 
 take care to skim the sauce-pan, that not the least 
 foulness may fall on the flower. It must be served 
 very white, and rather crimp. 
 
 Cauliflower in white Sauce. 
 
 Half boil it; then cut it into handsome pieces, 
 and lay them in a stew-pan with a little broth, a bit 
 of mace, a little salt, and a dust of white pepper ; 
 simmer half an hour: then put a little cream, but¬ 
 ter and flour ; shake, and simmer a few minutes, and 
 serve. 
 
 To dress Cauliflowers and Parmesan. 
 
 Boil a cauliflower ; drain it on a sieve, and cut 
 the stalk so that the flower will stand upright about 
 two inches above the dish. Put it into the stew- 
 pan, with a little white sauce ; let it stew till done 
 enough, which will be but a lew minutes, then oish 
 it with the sauce round, and put Parmesan grated 
 over it. Brown it with a salamander. 
 
 To dress Brocoli. 
 
 Cut the head with short stalks, and pare the 
 tough skin off them. Tie the small shoots into 
 bunches, and boil them a shorter time than the heads. 
 Some salt must be put into the water. Serve with 
 or without toast. 
 
148 
 
 Spinach. 
 
 Requires great care in washing and picking it. 
 When that is done, throw it into a saucepan that 
 will just hold it. sprinkle it with a little salt, and 
 cover close. The pan must be set on the fire, and 
 well shaken. When done, beat the spinach well 
 with a small bit of butter; it must come to table 
 pretty dry ; and looks well if pressed into a tin 
 mould in the form of a large leaf, which is sold at 
 the tin-shops. A spoonful of cream is an improve¬ 
 ment. 
 
 To dress Beans. 
 
 Boil tender, with a bunch of parsley, which must 
 be chopped to serve with them. Bacon or pickled 
 pork must be served to eat with, but not boiled with 
 them. 
 
 Fricasseed Windsor Beans. 
 
 When growing large, but not mealy, boil, blanch, 
 and lay them in a white sauce ready hot: just heat 
 them through in it, and serve. If any are not of 
 fine green do not use them for this dish. 
 
 French Beans. 
 
 String, and cut them into four or eight ; the last 
 looks best. Lay them in salt and water ; and when 
 the sauce-pan boils, put them in with some salt. As 
 soon as they are done, serve them immediately, to 
 preserve the green colour. 
 
 Or when half done, drain the water off, and put 
 them into two spoonfuls of broth strained : and add a 
 little cream, butter, and flour, to finish doing them. 
 
 To stew red Cabbage. 
 
 Slice a small, or half a large, red cabbage ; wash 
 and put it into a sauce-pan with pepper, salt, no 
 water but what hangs about it, and a piece of butter 
 
149 
 
 Stew till quite tender; and when going to serve, 
 add two or three spoonfuls of vinegar, and give one 
 boil over the fire. Serve it for cold meat, or with 
 sausages on it. 
 
 Another way .—Shred the cabbage, wash it ; and 
 put it over a slow fire, with slices of onion, pepper, 
 and salt, and a little plain gravy When quite ten¬ 
 der and a few minutes before serving, add a bit of 
 butter rubbed with flour, and two or three spoonfuls 
 of vinegar, and boil up. 
 
 Mushrooms 
 
 The cook should be perfectly acquainted with the 
 different sorts of things called by this name by ig¬ 
 norant people, as the death of many persons has 
 been occasioned by carelessly using the poisonous 
 kinds. 
 
 The eatable mushrooms first appear very small, 
 and of a round form, on a little stalk. They grow 
 very fast, and the upper part and stalk is white. 
 As the size increases, the under part gradually 
 opens, and shows a fringed fur of a very fine sal¬ 
 mon-colour, which continues more or less till the 
 mushroom has gained some size, and then turns to 
 a dark brown. These marks should be attended to, 
 and likewise whether the skin can be easily parted 
 from the edges and middle. Those that have a 
 white or yellow fur should be carefully avoided, 
 though many of them have the same smell, (but not 
 so strong,) as the right sort. 
 
 To stew Mushrooms. 
 
 The large buttons are best, and the small flaps 
 while the fur is still red. Rub the large buttons 
 with salt and a bit of flannel ; cut out the fur, and 
 take off the skin from the others. Sprinkle them 
 with salt, and put into a stew-pan with some pepper- 
 
 13 * 
 
150 
 
 corns ; simmer siowly till done : then put a small 
 bit of butter and flour, and two spoonfuls of cream ; 
 give them one boil, and serve with sippets of bread. 
 
 To stew Sorrel for Fricandeau and roast Meat. 
 
 Wash the sorrel; and put it into a silver vessel, 
 or stone jar, with no more water than hangs to the 
 leaves. Simmer it as slow as you can ; and when 
 done enough, put a bit of butter, and beat it well. 
 
 Frencti Salad. 
 
 Chop three anchovies, a shallot, and some parsley, 
 small; put them into a bowl with two table-spoon¬ 
 fuls of vinegar, one of oil, a little mustard and salt. 
 When well mixed, add by degrees some cold roast 
 or boiled meat in very thin slices ; put in a few at a 
 tune, not exceeding two or three inches long. 
 Shake them in the seasoning, and then put more ; 
 cover the bowl close, and let the salad be prepared 
 three hours before it is to be eaten. Garnish with 
 parsley, and a few slices of the fat. 
 
 Lobster Salad. 
 
 Make a salad ; and put some of the red part of 
 the lobster to it, cut. This forms a pretty contrast 
 to the white and green of the vegetables. Do not 
 put much oil, as shell-fish absorb the sharpness of 
 vinegar. Serve in a dish, not a bowl. 
 
 To boil Potatoes. 
 
 Set them on a fire, without paring them, in cold 
 water, let them half-boil ; then throw some salt in, 
 and a pint of cold water, and let them boil again till 
 almost done. Pour off the water ; and put a clean 
 doth over them, and then the saucepan-cover, and 
 set them by the fire to steam till ready. Many per¬ 
 sons prefer steamers. Potatoes look best when the 
 skin is peeled, not cut. 
 
151 
 
 Do new potatoes the same ; but be careful they 
 a#e taken off in time, or they will be watery. Be¬ 
 fore dressing, rub off the skin with a cloth and salt, 
 and then wash. 
 
 To broil Potatoes. 
 
 Parboil, then slice and broil them. Or parboil, 
 and then set them whole on the gridiron over a very 
 slow fire ; and when thoroughly done, send them 
 up with their skins on. This last way is practised 
 in many Irish families. 
 
 r i o roast Potatoes. 
 
 Half-boil, take off the thin peel, and roast them 
 of a beautiful brown. 
 
 To fry Potatoes. 
 
 Take the skin off raw potatoes, slice, and fry 
 them, either in butter or thin batter. 
 
 To mash Potatoes. 
 
 Boil the potatoes, peel them, and break them to 
 paste ; then to two pounds of them, add a quarter 
 of a pint of milk, a little salt, and two ounces of 
 butter, and stir it all well over the fire. Either 
 serve them in this manner ; or place them on the 
 dish in a form, and then brown the top with a sala¬ 
 mander ; or in scallops. 
 
 Carrots 
 
 Require a good deal of boiling ; when young, 
 wipe off the skin after they are boiled; when old, 
 boil them with the salt meat, and scrape them first. 
 
 To stew Canots. 
 
 Half-boil, then nicely scrape, and slice them into 
 a stew-pan ; put to them half a tea-cupful of any 
 weak broth, some pepper and salt, and half a cupful of 
 cream : simmer them till they are very tender, but 
 not broken. Before serving, rub a very little flour ; 
 
152 
 
 with a bit of butter, and warm up with them. If ap¬ 
 proved, chopped parsley may be added ten minutes 
 before served. 
 
 To mash Parsnips. 
 
 Boil them tender ; scrape, then mash them into 
 a stew-pan with a little cream, a good piece of but¬ 
 ter, and pepper and salt. 
 
 Fricassee of parsnips. 
 
 Boil in milk till they are soft. Then cut them 
 lengthways into bits two or three inches long ; and 
 simmer in a white sauce, made of two spoonfuls of 
 broth, a bit of mace, half a cupful of cream, a bit of 
 butter and some flower, pepper, and salt. 
 
 Beet-roots 
 
 Make a very pleasant addition to winter salad ; of 
 which they may agreeably form a full half, instead 
 of being only used to ornament it. This root is cool¬ 
 ing, and very wholesome. 
 
 It is extremely good, boiled and sliced with a small 
 quantity of onion ; or stewed with whole onions, 
 large or small as follows. 
 
 Boil the beet tender with the skin on ; slice it in¬ 
 to a stew-pan with a little broth, and a spoonful of 
 vinegar; simmer till the gravy is tinged with the 
 colour ; then put it into a small dish, and make a 
 round of the button-onions, first boiled till tender; 
 take off the skin just before serving, and mind they 
 be quite hot, and clear. 
 
 Or roast three large onions, and peel off the outer 
 skins till they look clear ; and serve the beet-root 
 stewed round them. 
 
 If beet-root is in the. least broken before dressed, 
 it parts with its colour, and looks ill. 
 
153 
 
 SWEET DISHES, PRESERVES, SWEETMEATS, &.C. 
 
 Buttered Rice. 
 
 Wash and pick some rice, drain, and put it with 
 some new milk, enough just to swell it, over the 
 ffre ; when tender, pour off the milk, and add a 
 bit of butter, a little sugar, and pounded cinnamon. 
 Shake it, that it does not burn, and serve. 
 
 Souffle of Rice and Apples. 
 
 Blanch Carolina rice, strain it, and set it to boil in 
 milk, with lemon-peel and a bit of cinnamon. Let 
 it boil till the rice is dry ; then cool it, and raise a 
 rim three inches high round the dish ; having egged 
 the dish where it is put, to make it stick. Then egg 
 the rice all over. Fill the dish half-way up with a 
 marmalade of apples ; have ready the whites of four 
 eggs beaten to a fine froth, and put them over the 
 marmalade : then sift fine sugar over it, and set it in 
 the oven, which should be warm enough to give it a 
 beautiful colour. 
 
 Snow Balls. 
 
 Swell rice in milk, strain it off; and having pared 
 and cored apples, put the rice round them, tying 
 each up in a cloth. Put a bit of lemon-peel, a clove, 
 or cinnamon, in each, and boil them well. 
 
 Lent Potatoes. 
 
 Beat three or four ounces of almonds, and three 
 or four bitter, when blanched, putting a little orange- 
 flower water to prevent oiling ; add eight ounces of 
 butter, four eggs well beaten and strained, half a 
 glass of raisin wine, and sugar to your taste. Beat 
 all well till quite smooth, and grate in three Savoy 
 biscuits. Make balls of the above with a little flour, 
 the size of a chestnut; throw them into a stew-pan of 
 boiling lard, and boil them of a beautiful yellow 
 ^rown. Drain them. Serve sweet sauce in a boat. 
 
154 
 
 A Tansey 
 
 ' Beat seven eggs, yolks and whites separately ; add 
 a pint of cream, near the same of spinach-juice, and 
 a little tansey-juice gained by pounding in a stone 
 mortar, a quarter of a pound of Naples biscuit, su¬ 
 gar to taste, a glass of white wine, and some nutmeg. 
 Set all in a sauce-pan, just to thicken, over the fire ; 
 then put it into a dish, lined h paste, to turn out, 
 and bake it. 
 
 Puits d'Amour. 
 
 Cut a fine rich puff-paste rolled thin, with tin 
 shapes made on purpose, one size less than another, 
 in a pyramidical form, and lay them so : then bake 
 in a moderate oven, that the paste may be done suf¬ 
 ficiently, but very pale. Lay different coloured 
 sweetmeats on the edges. 
 
 A very nice dish of Macaroni dressed sweet. 
 
 Boil two ounces in a pint of milk, w’ith a bit of 
 lemon-peel, and a good bit of cinnamon, till the pipes 
 are swelled to their utmost size without breaking.— 
 Lay them on a custard-dish, and pour a custard over 
 them hot. Serve cold. 
 
 Floating Island. 
 
 Scald a codlin before it be ripe, or any sharp ap¬ 
 ple ; pulp it through a sieve. Beat the whites ol 
 two eggs with sugar, and a spoonful of orange flow¬ 
 er-water ; mix in by degrees the pulp, and beat all 
 together until you have a large quantity of froth ; 
 serve it on a raspberry-cream ; or you may colour 
 the froth with beet-root, raspberry, currant-jelly, 
 and set it on a white cream, having given it the fla¬ 
 vour oflemon, sugar, and wine ; or put the froth on 
 a custard. 
 
155 
 
 Flummery. 
 
 Put three large handfuls of very small white oat¬ 
 meal to steep a day and night in cold water ; then 
 pour it off clear, and add as much more water, and 
 let it stand the same time. Strain it through a fine 
 hair sieve, and boil it till it be as thick as hasty pud¬ 
 ding ; stirring it well all the time. When first 
 strained, put to it one large spoonful of white sugar, 
 and two of orange-flower water. Pour it into shal¬ 
 low dishes, and serve to eat with wine, cider, milk 
 or cream, or sugar. It is very good. 
 
 Rice Flummery. 
 
 Boil with a pint of new milk, a bit of lemon-peel, 
 and cinnamon ; mix with a little cold milk as much 
 rice flour as will make the whole of a good consis¬ 
 tence, sweeten, and add a spoon of peach-water, or 
 a bitter almond beaten ; boil it, observing it do not 
 burn ; pour it into a shape or pint basin, taking out 
 the spice. When cold, turn the flummery into a 
 dish, and serve with cream, milk, or custard round : 
 or put a tea-cupful of cream into half a pint of new 
 milk, a glass of white wine, half a lemon squeezed : 
 and sugar. 
 
 Firmity. 
 
 To a quart of ready boiled wheat, but by degrees 
 two quarts of new milk, breaking the jelly, and then 
 four ounces of currants picked clean, and washed ; 
 stir them and boil till they are done. Beat the yolks 
 of three eggs, and a little nutmeg, with two or three 
 spoonfuls of milk ; add this to the wheat; stir them 
 together while over the fire ; then sweeten, and 
 serve cold in a deep dish. Some persons like it 
 best warm. 
 
 Curds and Cream. 
 
 Put three or four pints of milk into a pan a little 
 
156 
 
 warm, and then add rennet or gallino. When the 
 curd is come lade it with a saucer into an earthern 
 shape, perforated, of any form you please. Fill it 
 up as the whey drains off, without breaking or press 
 ing the curd. If turned only two hours before 
 wanted, it is very light; but those who like it har¬ 
 der, may have it so, by making it earlier, and squeez¬ 
 ing it. Cream, milk or a whip of cream, sugar, 
 wine, and lemon, to be put in the dish, or into a glass 
 bowl, to serve with the curd. 
 
 A Curd Star. 
 
 Set a quart of new milk upon the fire with two or 
 three blades of mace ; and when ready to boil, put 
 to it the yolks and whites of nine eggs well beaten, 
 and as much salt as will lie upon a small knife’s 
 point. Let it boil till the whey is clear; then drain 
 it in a thin cloth, or hair sieve ; season it with su¬ 
 gar, and a little cinnamon, rose-water, orange-flower 
 water, or white wine, to your taste : and put into a 
 star form, or any other. Let it stand some hours 
 before you turn it into a dish : then put round it 
 thick cream or custard. 
 
 Blanc-mange or Blamange. 
 
 Boil two ounces of isinglass in three half-pints of 
 water half an hour ; strain it into a pint and a half 
 of cream, sweeten it, and add some peach water, or 
 a few bitter almonds, let it boil once up, and put in¬ 
 to what forms you please. If not to be very stiff, a 
 little less isinglass will do. Observe to let tb«» 
 blamange settle before you turn it into the forms, o t 
 the blacks will remain at the bottom of them, and be 
 on the top of the blamange when taken out of the 
 moulds. 
 
 Gooseberry , or Apple Trifle. 
 
 Scald such* quantity of either of these fruits, as, 
 
157 
 
 when pulped through a sieve, will make a thick lay¬ 
 er at the bottom of your dish ; if of apples mix the 
 rind of half a lemon grated fine ; and to both as much 
 sugar as will be pleasant. 
 
 Mix half a pint of milk, half a pint of cream, the 
 yolk of one egg ; give it a scald over the fire, and 
 stir it all the time ; do not let it boil: add a little su¬ 
 gar only, and let it grow cold. Lay it over the ap¬ 
 ples with a spoon ; and then put on it a whip made 
 the day before, as for other trifle. 
 
 Chantilly Cake, or Cake Trifle. 
 
 Bake a rice cake in a mould. When cold, cut it 
 round about two inches from the edge with a sharp 
 knife, taking care not to perforate the bottom. Put 
 in thick custard, and some tea-spoonfuls of raspber¬ 
 ry jam, and then put on a high whip 
 
 Gooseberry Fool. 
 
 Put the fruit into a stone jar, and some good Lis¬ 
 bon sugar : set the jar on a stove, or in a sauce-pan 
 of water over the fire ; if the former, a large spoon¬ 
 ful of water should be added to the fruit. When it 
 is done enough to pulp, press it through a colander; 
 have ready a sufficient quantity of new milk, and a 
 tea-cup of raw cream, boiled together, or an egg in¬ 
 stead of the latter, and left to be cold : then sweeten 
 it pretty well with fine Lisbon sugar, and mix the 
 pulp by degrees with it. 
 
 Orange Fool. 
 
 Mix the juice of three Seville oranges, three eggs 
 well beaten, a pint of cream, a little nutmeg and cin¬ 
 namon, and sweeten to your taste. Set the whole 
 over a slow fire, and stir it till it becomes as thick 
 as good melted buttei but it must not be boiled-; 
 then pour it into a dish foi eating cold 
 
 14 
 
 I E . A 
 
158 
 
 A Cream. 
 
 Boil halfa pint of cream, and half a pint of milk, 
 with two bay-leaves, a bit of lemon-peel, a few al¬ 
 monds, beaten to paste, with a drop of water, a little 
 sugar, orange-flower water, and a tea-£*poonful of 
 flour, having been rubbed down with a little cold 
 milk, and mixed with the above. When cold, put 
 a little lemon-juice to the cream, and serve it in cups 
 or lemonade-glasses. 
 
 An excellent Cream. 
 
 Whip up three quarters of a pint of very rich 
 cream to a strong froth, with some finely scraped 
 lemon-peel, a squeeze of the juice, half a glass of 
 sweet wine, and sugar to make it pleasant, but not too 
 sweet; lay it on a sieve or in a form, and next day 
 put it on a dish, and ornament it with very light puff 
 paste biscuits, made in tin shapes the length of a fin¬ 
 ger, and about two thick, over ivhich sugar may be 
 strewed, or a little glaze with isinglass. Or you 
 may use macaroons, to line the edges of the dish. 
 
 Burnt Cream. 
 
 Boil a pint of cream with a stick of cinnamon, and 
 some lemon-peel; take it oft' the fire, and pour it 
 very slowly into the yolks of four eggs, stirring till 
 half cold ; sweeten and take out the spice, &c. ; 
 pour it into the dish ; when cold, strew white pound¬ 
 ed sugar over and brown it with a salamander. 
 
 Sack Cream. 
 
 Boil a pint of raw cream, the yolk of an egg well 
 beaten, two or three spoonfuls of white wine, sugar, 
 and lemon-peel j stir it over a gentle fire till it is as 
 thick as rich cream, and afterwards till cold ; then 
 serve it in glasses, with long pieces of dry toast. 
 
Brandy Cream. 
 
 Boil two dozen of almonds blanched, and pounded 
 bitter almonds, in a little milk. When cold, add to 
 it the yolks of five eggs beaten well in a little cream, 
 sweeten, and put to it two glasses of the best brandy ; 
 and when well mixed, pour to it a quart of thin 
 cream ; set it over the fire, but do not let it boil : 
 stir it one way till it thickens, then pour into cups or 
 low glasses. 
 
 When cold it will be ready. A ratafia-drop may 
 be put in each if you choose it. If you wish it to 
 keep, scald the cream previously. 
 
 Ratafia Cream. 
 
 Boil three or four laurel, peach, or nectarine 
 leaves, in a full pint of cream ; strain it, and when 
 cold, add the yolks of three eggs beaten and strain¬ 
 ed, sugar, and a large spoonful of brandy stirred 
 quick into it. Scald till thick, stirring it all the time. 
 
 Lemon Cream. 
 
 Take a pint of thick cream, and put to it the 
 yolks of two eggs well beaten, four ounces of fine 
 sugar, and the thin rind of a lemon ; boil it up, then 
 stir it till almost cold ; put the juice of a lemon in a 
 dish, or bowl, and pour the cream upon it, stirring 
 it till quite cold. 
 
 White Lemon Cream. 
 
 Is made the same as the above ; only put the 
 whites of the eggs in lieu of the yolks, whisking it 
 extremely well to froth. 
 
 Almond Cream. 
 
 Beat four ounces of sweet almonds, and a few 
 bitter, in a mortar, with a tea-spoonful of water to 
 prevent oiling, both having been blanched. Put the 
 paste to a quart of "warn, and add the juice of three 
 
160 
 
 .emons sweetened ; beat it up with a whisk to a 
 froth, which take off on the shallow part of a sieve ; 
 till glasses with some of the liquor and the froth. 
 
 Snow Cream. 
 
 Put to a quart of cream the whites of three eggs 
 well beaten, four spoonfuls of sweet wine, sugar to 
 your taste, and a bit of lemon peel; whip it to a 
 froth, remove the peel, and serve in a dish. 
 
 Cojfee-crcam , much admired. 
 
 Boil a calf’s foot in water till it wastes to a pint of 
 jelly, clear of sediment and fat. Make a tea-cup of 
 very strong coffee ; clear it with a bit of isinglass to 
 be perfectly bright ; pour it to the jelly, and add a 
 pint of very good cream, and as much fine Lisbon 
 sugar as is pleasant ; give one boil up, and pour 
 into the dish. 
 
 It should jelly, put not be stiff. Observe that 
 
 your coffee be fresh. 
 
 Excellent Orange Cream. 
 
 Boil the rind of a Seville orange very tender ; 
 beat it fine in a mortar, put it to a spoonful of the 
 best brandy, the juice of a Seville orange, four oun¬ 
 ces of Loaf sugar, and the yolks of four eggs ; beat all 
 together for ten minutes, then, by gentle degrees, 
 pour in a pint of boiling cream, beat till cold, put 
 into custard-cups set into a deep dish of boiling 
 water, and let them stand till cold again. Put at the 
 top small strips of orange-paring, cut thin, or pre¬ 
 served chips. 
 
 Raspberry Cream. 
 
 Mash the fruit gently, and let them drain, then 
 sprinkle a little sugar over, and that will produce 
 more juice, then put the juice to some cream, and 
 sweeten it, after which, if you choose to lower it 
 
161 
 
 with some milk, it will not curdle, which it would, 
 if put to the milk before the cream, but it is the best 
 made of raspberry-jelly instead of jam, when the 
 fresh fruit cannot be obtained. 
 
 Pistachio Cream. 
 
 Blanch four ounces of pistachio nuts ; beat them 
 fine with a little rose-water, and add the paste to a 
 pint of cream ; sweeten, let it just boil, and put it 
 into glasses. 
 
 Clouted Cream. 
 
 String four blades of mace on a thread ; put 
 them on a gill of new milk, and six spoonfuls of rose¬ 
 water, simmer a few minutes, then by degrees stir 
 this liquor strained into the yolks of two new eggs 
 well beaten. Stir the whole into a quart of very 
 good cream, and set it over the fire ; stir it till hot, 
 but not boiling hot; pour it into a deep dish, and 
 let it stand twenty-four hours. Serve it in a cream 
 dish, to eat with fruits. Many people prefer it 
 without any flavour but that of cream, in which case 
 use a quart of new milk and the cream, or do it as 
 the Devonshire scalded cream. 
 
 When done enough, a round mark will appear on 
 the surftce of the cream, the size of the bottom of 
 the pan it is done in, which in the country they call 
 the ring; and when that is seen, remove the pan 
 from the fire. 
 
 A Froth to set on Cream , Custard , or Trifle, which 
 looks and eats well. 
 
 Sweeten half a pound of the pulp of damsons, or 
 any other sort of scalded fruit, put to it the whites of 
 four eggs beaten, and beat the pulp with them until 
 it will stand as high as you choose ; and being put on 
 the cream, &c. with a sooon, it will ta^ajjv form . 
 it should be rough, to imitate a rock 
 
 14 * 
 
162 
 
 
 Calf's Feet Jelly. 
 
 Boil two feet in two quarts and a pint of water till 
 the f eet .ire broken and the water half wasted ; strain 
 it, and when cold, take off the fat, and remove the 
 jelly from the sediment ; then put it into a sauce¬ 
 pan, with sugar, raisin w ine, lemon juice to your 
 taste, and some lemon-peel. When the flavour is 
 rich, put to it the white of five eggs well beaten, and 
 their shells broken. Set the sauce-pan on the fire, 
 but do not stir the jelly after it begins to warm. Let 
 it boil twenty minutes after it rises to a head ; then 
 pour it through a flannel jelly-bag. first dipping the 
 bag in hot water to prevent waste, and squeezing it 
 quite dry. Run the jelly through and through un¬ 
 til clear ; then put it into glasses or forms. 
 
 The following mode will greatly facilitate the 
 clearing of jelly. When the mixture has boiled 
 twenty minutes, throw in a tea-cupful of cold water, 
 ret it boil five minutes longer : then take t'he sauce¬ 
 pan off the fire covered close, and keep it half an 
 hour ; after which it will be so clear as to need only 
 once running through the bag, and much waste will 
 be saved. 
 
 Observe, feet for all jellies are boiled so long by 
 the people who sell them, that thay are less nutri- 
 cious: they should only be scalded to take off the hair. 
 The liquor will require greater care in removing the 
 fait, but the jelly will oe far stronger, and of course 
 allow more water. Note : jelly is equally good made 
 of cow-heels nicely cleaned ; and as they bear a 
 less price than those of calves, and make a stronger 
 jelly, this observation rnay be useful. 
 
 Orange Jelly. 
 
 Grate the rind of two Seville and two Cnina Oran¬ 
 ges, and two lemons, squeeze the juice of three of 
 
163 
 
 each, and strain, and add the juice of a quarter of a 
 pound of lump sugar, and a quarter ef a pint of wa¬ 
 ter, and boil till it almost candies. Have ready a 
 quart of isinglass-jelly made with two ounces; put 
 to it the syrup, and boil it once up ; strain off the 
 jelly, and let it stand to settle as above, before it is 
 ' put into the mould. 
 
 Hartshorn Jelly. 
 
 Simmer eight ounces of hartshorn shavings with 
 two quarts of water to one ; strain it, and boil it 
 with the rinds of four China oranges and two lemons 
 pared thin ; when cool, add the juice of both, half a 
 pound of sugar, and the whites of six eggs beaten to 
 froth ; let the jelly have three or four boils without 
 stirring, and strain it through a jelly bag. 
 
 Cranberry Jelly. 
 
 Make a very strong isinglass-jelly. When cold, 
 mix it with a double quantity of cranberry-juice, 
 pressed as directed for dressing cranberries, (see 
 \preserves ;) sweeten and boil it up; then strain it in¬ 
 to a shape. 
 
 The sugar must be good loaf, or the jelly will not 
 be clear. 
 
 Cranberry and Bice Jelly. 
 
 Boil and press the fruit, strain the juice and by 
 degrees mix it into as much ground rice as will, when 
 boiled, thicken to a jelly ; boil it gently, stirring it, 
 and sweeten to your taste. Put it in a basin or form, 
 and serve to eat as the afore-directed jelly, with milk 
 or cream. 
 
 Apple Jelly to serve at table. 
 
 Prepare twenty golden pippins ; boil them in a 
 pint and a half of water from the spring, till quite 
 tender; then strain the liquor through a colander 
 
104 
 
 To every pint put a pound of fine sugar, add grated 
 orange or lemon, then boil to a jelly. 
 
 To scald Codlins. 
 
 Wrap each in a vine-leaf, and pack them close in 
 a nice sauce-pan, and when full, pour as much water 
 as will cover them. Set it over a gentle fire, and 
 let them simmer slowly till done enough to take the 
 thin skin off when cold. Place them in a dish, with or 
 without milk, cream, or custard ; if the latter, there 
 should be no ratafia. Dust fine sugar over the ap¬ 
 ples. 
 
 Stewed Golden Pippins. 
 
 Scoop out the core, pare them very thin, and as 
 you do it, throw them in water. For every pound 
 of fruit, make half a pound of single-refined sugar 
 into syrup, with a pint of water, when skimmed, put 
 the pippins in, and stew till clear ; then grate the le¬ 
 mon over, and serve in the syrup. Be careful not 
 to let them break. 
 
 They are an elegant and good dish for a corner or 
 dessert. 
 
 Black Caps. 
 
 Halve and core some fine large apples, put them 
 in a shallow pan, strew white sugar over, and bake 
 them. Boil a glass of wine, the same of water, and 
 sweeten it for sauce. 
 
 Stewed Pears. 
 
 Pare and halve, or quarter, large pears, accord¬ 
 ing to their size ; throw them into water, as the skin 
 is taken off, before they are divided, to prevent their 
 turning black. Pack them round a block-tin stew- 
 pan, and sprinkle as much sugar over as will make 
 them pretty sweet, and add lemon peel, a clove or 
 two, and some alspice cracked ; just cover them with 
 water, and put some of the red liquor, as directed in 
 
165 
 
 another article. Cover them close, and stew three 
 or four hours ; when tender, take them out, and 
 pour the liquor from them. 
 
 Baked Pears. 
 
 These need not be of a fine sort; but some taste 
 better than others, and often those that are least 
 fit to eat raw. Wipe but do not pare, and lay them 
 on tin plates, and bake them in a slow oven. When 
 enough to bear it flatten them with a silver spoon. 
 When done through, put them on the dish. They 
 should be baked three or four times, and very 
 gently. 
 
 Orange Butter. 
 
 Boil six hard eggs, beat them in a mortar with two 
 ounces of fine sugar, three ounces of butter, and 
 two ounces of blanched almonds beaten to a paste. 
 Moisten with orange-flower water, and when all is 
 mixed, rub it through a colander on a dish, and 
 serve sweet biscuits between. 
 
 To prepare Fruit for Children , afar more wholesome 
 way than in Pies and Puddings. 
 
 Put apples sliced, or plums, currants, gooseber¬ 
 ries, &c. into a stone jar, and sprinkle as much Lis¬ 
 bon sugar as necessary among them, set the jar on a 
 hot hearth, or in a sauce-pan of water, and let it re¬ 
 main till the fruit is perfectly done. 
 
 jlices of bread, or rice may be either stewed with 
 the fruit or added when eaten ; the rice being plain- 
 boiled. 
 
 To prepare Ice for Iceing 
 
 Get a few pounds of ice, break it almost to pow¬ 
 der, throw a large handful and a half of salt among 
 it. You must prepare in a part of the house where 
 as little of the warm air comes as you can possibly 
 
166 
 
 contrive. The ice and salt being in a bucket, put 
 your cream into an ice-pot, and cover it; immerse 
 it in the ice, and draw that round the pot, so as to 
 touch every possible part. In a few minutes put a 
 spatula or spoon in. and stir it well, moving the 
 parts that ice round the edges to the centre. Ifihe 
 ice cream, or water, be in a form, shut the bot- 
 toom close, and move the whole in the ice, as 
 you cannot use a spoon to that without danger of 
 waste. There should be holes in the bucket, to let 
 off the ice as it thaws. 
 
 Note .—When any fluid tends towards cold, the 
 moving it quickly accelerates the cold ; and like 
 wise, when any fluid is tending to heat, stirring jA 
 will facilitate its boiling. 
 
 Ice Waters. 
 
 Rub some fine sugar on lemon or orange, to give 
 the colour and flavour, then squeeze the juice of 
 either on its respective peel : add water and sugar 
 to make a fine sherbet, and strain it before it be put 
 into the ice-pot. If orange, the greater proportion 
 should be of the China juice, and only a little ot 
 Seville, and a small bit of the peel grated by J;h<» 
 sugar. 
 
 Currant or Raspberry-Water Ice. 
 
 The juice of these, or any other sort of fruit, be¬ 
 ing gained by squeezing, sweetened, and mixed with 
 water will be ready for icing. 
 
 Ice-Creams. 
 
 Mix the juice of the fruits with as much sugar as 
 will be wanted, before you add cream, which should 
 be of a middle richness. 
 
 Brown Bread Ice. 
 
 Orate as fine as possible “t? 1 * brown bread, soak 
 
167 
 
 a small proportion in cream two or three hours, 
 sweeten and ice it. 
 
 Ratafia Cream. 
 
 Blanch a quarter of an ounce of bitter almonds, 
 and beat them in a tea-spoonful of water in a mar¬ 
 ble mortar ; then rub with the paste two ounces of 
 lump-sugar, and simmer ten minutes with a tea-cup 
 of cream, which add to a quart more of cream, and 
 having strained, ice it. 
 
 Colourings to stain Jellies, Ices , or Cakes. 
 
 For a beautiful red , boil fifteen grains of cochineal 
 in the finest powder, with a drachm and a half of cream 
 of tartar, in half a pint of water, very slowly, half an 
 hour. Add in boiling a bit of allum the size of a pea, 
 Or use beet-root sliced, and some liquor poured 
 over. For white use almonds finely powdered, with 
 a little water : or use cream. 
 
 For yellow , yolks of eggs, or a bit of saffron, steep¬ 
 ed in liquor and squeezed. 
 
 For green, pound spinach-leaves or beet-leaves, 
 express the juice, and boil in a sauce-pan in a tea¬ 
 cupful of water to take off the rawness. 
 
 London Syllabub. 
 
 Put a pint and a half of port or white wine into a 
 bowl, nutmeg grated, and a good deal of sugar ; then 
 milk into it near two quarts of milk, frothed up. If 
 the wine be not rather sharp, it will require more 
 
 of brandy,sugar and 
 nutmeg into a bowl, and milk into it; or pour warm 
 milk from a large tea-pot some height into it. 
 
 A very fine Syllabub. 
 
 In a large China bowl put a pint of port, and a pint 
 
 [ 
 
 for this quantity of milk. 
 
 Syllabub 
 
 Put a pint of cider and a gh 
 
168 
 
 of sherry, or other white wine ; sugar to taste.-— 
 Milk the bowl full. In twenty minutes’ time, cover 
 it pretty high with clouted cream; grate over it 
 nutmeg, put pounded cinnamon, and nonpariel com 
 fits. 
 
 Junket. 
 
 Put warm milk into a bowl: turn it with rennet ; 
 then put some scalded cream, sugar, and cinnamon, 
 on the top, without breaking the curd. 
 
 Everlasting , or solid Syllabubs. 
 
 Mix a quart of thick raw cream, one pound of re¬ 
 fined sugar, a pint and a half of fine raisin wine, in a 
 deep pan ; put to it the grated peel and the juice of 
 three lemons. Beat, or whisk it one way half an 
 hour; then put it on a sieve with a bit of thin mus¬ 
 lin laid smooth in the shallow end till next day. Put 
 it in glasses. It will keep good in a cool place, ten 
 days.: 
 
 Lemon Honeycomb. 
 
 Sweeten the juice of a lemon to your taste, and 
 put in the dish that you serve it in. Mix the white 
 of an egg that is beaten with a pint of rich cream, and 
 a little sugar ; whisk it, and as the froth rises, put it 
 on the lemon-juice. Do it the day before it is to be 
 used. 
 
 Rice and Sago Milks 
 
 Axe made by washing the seeds nicely, and sim¬ 
 mering with milk over a slow fire till sufficiently 
 done. The former sort requires lemon, spice, and 
 sugar ; the latter is good without any thing t o fla¬ 
 vour it. 
 
 A pretty Supper Dish. 
 
 Boil a tea-cupful of rice, having first washed it in 
 milk till tender : strain off the milk, lay the nee in 
 little heaps on a dish, strew over them some finely 
 
169 
 
 powdered sugar and cinnamon, and put warm wine 
 and a little butter into the dish. 
 
 Savoury Rice. 
 
 Wash and pick some rice, stew it very gently in 
 a small quantity of veal or rich mutton broth, with 
 an onion, a blade of mace, pepper, and salt. When 
 swelled, but not boiled to mash, dry it on the shallow 
 end of a sieve before the fire, and either serve it d, y, 
 or put it in the middle of a dish, and pour the gravy 
 round, having heated it. 
 
 Salmagundy 
 
 Is a beautiful small dish, if in nice shape, and if 
 the colours of the ingredients are varied. For this 
 purpose chop separately the white part of cold chick¬ 
 en or veal, yolks of eggs boiled hard, the whites of 
 eggs, parsley, half a dozen anchovies, beet-root, red 
 pickled cabbage, ham and grated tongue, or any 
 thing well flavoured, and of a good colour. Some 
 people like a small proportion of onion, but it may 
 be better omitted. A saucer, large tea-cup, or any 
 other base, must be put into a small dish ; then make 
 rows round it wide at bottom, and growing smaller 
 Wwards the top ; choosing such of the ingredients 
 for each row as will most vary the colours. At the 
 top a little sprig of curled parsley may be stuck in, 
 or, without any thing on the dish, the salmagundy 
 may be laid in rows, or put into the half whites of 
 eggs, which may be made to stand upright by cutting 
 off a little bit at the round end. In the latter case, 
 ach half egg has but one ingredient. Curled but¬ 
 ter and parsley may be put as garnish between. 
 
 Macaroni as usually served. 
 
 Boil it in milk, or a weak veal broth, pretty well 
 flavoured with salt. When tender, put it into a dish 
 
 15 
 
without the liquor, and among it put some bits ot 
 butter and grated cheese, and over the top grate 
 more, and a little more butter. Set the dish into a 
 Dutch oven a quarter of an hour, but do not let the 
 top become hard. 
 
 Another way .—Wash it well, and simmer in half 
 milk and half broth of veal or mutton, till it is ten¬ 
 der. To a spoonful of this liquor put the yolk of an 
 egg beaten in a spoonful of cream, just make it hot 
 to thicken, but not boil: put it over the macaroni, 
 and then grate fine old cheese all over, and bits ot 
 butter. Brown with the salamander. 
 
 Omlet. 
 
 Make a batter of eggs and milk, and a very little 
 Hour ; put to it chopped parsley, green onions, or 
 chives or a very small quantity of shallot (the latter 
 is best) a little pepper, salt, and a scrape or two of 
 nutmeg. Make some butter boil in a small trying- 
 pan, and pour the above batter into it; when one 
 side is of a fine yellow brown, turn it, and do the 
 other. Double it when served. Some scraped lean 
 ham, or grated tongue, put in at first, is a very plea¬ 
 sant addition. Four eggs will make a pretty sized 
 omlet; but many cooks will use eight or ten. A 
 small proportion of flour should be used. 
 
 If the taste be approved, a little taragon gives a 
 fine flavour. A good deal of parsley should be used. 
 
 Ramakins and omlet, though usually served in the 
 course, would be much better if they were sent up 
 after, that they might be eaten as hot as possible. 
 
 Ramakin$ t . 
 
 Scrape a quarter of a pound of Cheshire, and ditto 
 of Gloucester cheese, ditto of good fresh butter ; 
 then beat all in a mortar with the yolks of four eggs, 
 and the inside of a small French roll boiled in cream 
 
171 
 
 till soft; mix the paste then with the whites of the 
 eggs previously beaten, and put into small paper 
 pans made rather long than square, and bake in a 
 Dutch oven till of a fine brown. They should be 
 eaten quite hot. Some like the addition of a glass 
 of white wine. 
 
 The batter for ramakins is equally good over ma¬ 
 caroni when boiled tender ; or on stewed broccoli, 
 celery, or cauliflower ; a little of the gravy they 
 have been stewed in being put in the dish with them, 
 but not enough to make the vegetable swim. 
 
 Roast Cheese, to come up after Dinner. 
 
 Grate three ounces of fat Cheshire cheese, mix it 
 with the yolks of two eggs, four ounces of grated 
 bread, and three ounces of butter ; beat the whole 
 well in a mortar, with a dessert-spoonful of mustard, 
 and a little salt and pepper. Toast some bread, 
 cut it into proper pieces, lay the paste as above 
 thick upon them, put them into a Dutch oven cover¬ 
 ed with a dish, till hot through, remove the dish, 
 and let the cheese brown a little. Serve as hot as 
 possible. 
 
 Welsh Rabit. 
 
 Toast a slice of bread on both sides, and butter it; 
 toast a slice of Gloucester cheese on one side, and 
 lay that next the bread, and toast the other with a 
 salamander ; rub mustard over, and serve very hot, 
 and covered. 
 
 Cheese Toast. 
 
 Mix some fine butter, made mustard, and salt, into 
 a mass ; spread it on fresh-made thin toasts, and 
 grated or scrape Gloucester cheese upon them. 
 
 Anchovy Toast. 
 
 Bone and skin six or eight pn^Vwmg ; pound them 
 
/ 
 
 172 
 
 to a mess with an ounce of fine butter till the colour 
 is equal, and then spread it on toasts or rusks. 
 
 To poach Eggs. 
 
 Set a stew-pan with water on the fire ; when 
 boiling, slip an egg previously broken into a cup, 
 into the water ; when the white looks done enough 
 slide an egg-slice under the egg, and lay it on toast 
 and butter, of spinach. As soon as enough are 
 done, serve hot. If not fresh laid they will not 
 poach well, and without breaking. Trim the rag¬ 
 ged part of the whites, and make them look round. 
 
 To boil Eggs. 
 
 Put them in when the water boils ; three minutes 
 and a half will boil them soft, and five or six hard. 
 
 Buttered Eggs. 
 
 Beat four or five eggs, yolks and whites together, 
 put a quarter of a pound of butter in a basin, and 
 then put that in boiling water; stir it till melted, 
 then pour that butter and eggs into a saucepan ; 
 keep a basin in your hand, just hold the sauce-pan 
 in the other over a slow part of the fire, shaking it 
 one way, as it begins to warm ; pour it into a basin 
 and back, then hold it again over the fire, stirring it 
 constantly in the sauce-pan, and pouring it into a ba¬ 
 sin, more perfectly to mix the egg and butter, until 
 they shall be hot without boiling. 
 
 Serve on toasted bread : or in a basin, to eat 
 with salt fish, or red herrings. 
 
 Scotch Eggs. 
 
 Boil hard five pullet’s eggs, and without remov¬ 
 ing the white, cover completely with a fine relishing 
 forcemeat, in which let scraped ham, or chopped 
 anchovy, bear a due proportion. Fry of a beautiful 
 
173 
 
 yellow brown, and serve with a good gravy in the 
 dish. 
 
 A Pepper-pot. 
 
 To three quarts of water, put such vegetables as 
 you choose ; in summer, peas, lettuce, spinach, and 
 two or three onions; in winter, carrots, turnips, 
 onions, and celery. Cut them very small, and stew 
 them with two pounds of neck of mutton, and a pound 
 of pickled pork, till quite tender. Half an hour be¬ 
 fore serving, clear a lobster or crab from the shell, 
 and put it into the stew. Some people choose very 
 small suet dumplings boiled in the above. Season 
 with salt and Cayenne. 
 
 Instead of mutton you may put a fowl. Pepper¬ 
 pot may be made of various things, and is under¬ 
 stood to be a proper mixture offish, flesh, fowl, ve¬ 
 getables, and pulse. A small quantity of rice should 
 be boiled with the whole. 
 
 SWEETMEATS. 
 
 To green Fruits Jor preserving or pickling. 
 
 Take pippins, apricots, pears, plums, peaches, 
 while green, for the first, or radish-pods, French 
 beans for the latter, and cucumbers for both pro¬ 
 cesses ; and put them with vine-leaves under and 
 over, into a block-tin preserving pan, with spring- 
 water to cover them, and then the tin cover to ex¬ 
 clude all aiF. Set it on the side of a fire, and when 
 they begin to simmer, take them off, pour off the 
 water, and if not green, put fresh leaves w hen cold, 
 and repeat the same. Take them out carefully with 
 a slice : they are to be peeled, and then done accor-> 
 ding to the receipts for the several modes 
 To clarify Sugar for Swetmeats. 
 
 Break as much as required in large lumps, and 
 ■ 15 * 
 
174 
 
 pat a pound to a half a pint of water in a bowl, and 
 it will dissolve better than when broken small. Set 
 it over the fire, and the well whipt white of an egg ; 
 let it boil up, and, when ready to run over, pour a 
 little cold water in to give it a check ; but when it 
 rises a second time, take it off the fire, and set it by 
 in the pan a quarter of an hour, during which the 
 foulness will sink to the bottom, and leave a black 
 scum on the top, which take off gently with a skim¬ 
 mer and pour the syrup mto a vessel very quickly 
 from the sediment. 
 
 To candy any sort of Fruit. 
 
 When finished in the syrup, put a layer into a 
 new sieve, and dip it suddenly into hot water, to 
 take off the syrup that hangs about it; put it on a 
 napkin before the fire to drain, and then do some 
 more in the sieve. Have ready sifted doubled re¬ 
 fined sugar, which sift over the fruit on all sides till 
 quite white. Set it on the shallow end of sieves in 
 a lightly warm oven, and turn it two or three times. 
 It must not be cold till dry. Watch it carefully, and 
 it will be beautiful. 
 
 To preserve Apricots with Jelly. 
 
 Pare the fruit very thin, and stone it; weigh an 
 equal quantity of sugar in fine powder, and strew 
 over it. Next day boil very gently till they are 
 clear, move them into a bowl, and pour the liquor 
 over. The following day pour the liquor into a 
 quart of codlin-liquor, made by boiling and straining, 
 and a pound of fine sugar ; let it boil quickly till it 
 will jelly : put the fruit into it, and give one boil, 
 skim well, and put into small pots. 
 
 To preserve green Apricots. 
 
 Lay vine or apricot leaves at the bottom of your 
 
175 
 
 pan, then fruit, and so alternately till full, the upper 
 layer being thick with leaves : then till with spring 
 water, and cover down that no steam may come out. 
 Set the pan at a distance from the fire, that in four 
 or five hours they may be only soft, but not crack¬ 
 ed. Make a thin syrup of some of the water, drain 
 the fruit. When both are cold, put the fruit into 
 the pan, and the svrup to it ; put the pan at a pro¬ 
 per distance from the fire till the apricots green, but 
 on no account boil or crack ; remove them very 
 carefully into a pan with the syrup for two or three 
 days ; then pour off as much of it as will be neces¬ 
 sary, and boil with more sugar to make a rich syrup, 
 and put a little sliced ginger into it. When cold, 
 and the thin syrup has all been drained from the 
 fruit, pour the thick over it. The former will serve 
 to sweeten pies. 
 
 Apricots or Peaches in Brandy. 
 
 Wipe, weigh, and pick the fruit, and have ready a 
 quarter of the weight of fine sugar in fine powder. 
 Put the fruit into an ice-pot that shuts very close ; 
 throw the sugar over it, and then cover the fruit with 
 brandy. Between the top and the cover of the pot, 
 put a piece of double cap-paper. Set the pot into a 
 saucepan of water till the brandy be as hot as you 
 can possibly bear to put your finger in, but it must 
 not boil. Put the fruit into ajar, and pour the bran¬ 
 dy on it. When cold, put a bladder over, and tie it 
 down tight. 
 
 Apricot Cheese. 
 
 Weigh m equal quantity of pared fruit and sugar, 
 wet the 1 otter a veiy little, and let it boil quickly, or 
 the. colour will be spoiled ; blanch the kernels, and 
 add to it. Twenty or thirty minutes will boil it.— 
 Put it in small pots or cups half filled- 
 
Orange Marmalade. 
 
 Rasp the oranges, cut out the pulp, then boil the 
 rinds very tender, and beat fine in a marble mortar. 
 Roil three pounds of loaf sugar in a pint of water, 
 skim it, and a pound of the rind : boil it fast till the 
 syrup is very thick, but stir it carefully ; then put 
 a pint of the pulp and juice, the seeds having been 
 removed, and a pint of apple liquor ; boil all gen¬ 
 tly until well jellied, which it will be in about half 
 an hour. Put it into small pots. 
 
 Lemon marmalade do in the same way ; they are 
 very good and elegant sweetmeats. 
 
 Transparent Marmalade. 
 
 Cut the palest Seville oranges in quarters, take 
 the pulp out, and put it in a basin, pick out the seeds 
 and skins. Let the outsides soak in water with a 
 little salt all night, then boil them in a good quantity 
 of spring water till tender ; drain, and cut them in 
 very thin slices, and put them to the pulp ; and to 
 every pound, a pound and a half of double refi¬ 
 ned sugar beaten fine ; boil them together twenty 
 minutes, but be careful not to break the slices. If 
 not quite clear, simmer five or six minutes longer. 
 It must be stirred all the time very gently. When 
 cold, put it into glasses. 
 
 Orange Chips. 
 
 Cut oranges in halves, squeeze the juice Through 
 a sieve - n soak the peel in water; next day boil in 
 the same till tender, drain them, and slice the peels, 
 put them to the juice, weigh as much sugar, and put 
 all together into a broad earthen dish, and put over 
 the fire at a moderate distance, often stirring till the 
 chips candy ; then set them in a cool room to dry. 
 They will not be so under three weeks. 
 
177 
 
 Orange-flower Cakes. 
 
 Put four ounces of the leaves of the flowers into 
 cold water for an hour ; drain, and put between nap¬ 
 kins, androll with a rolling-pin till they are bruised; 
 then have ready boiled a pound of sugar to add to it 
 in a thick syrup, give them a simmer until the syrup 
 adheres to the sides of the pan, drop in little cakes 
 on a plate, and dry as before directed. 
 
 To preserve Strawberries whole. 
 
 Take equal weights of the fruit and double-refi 
 ned sugar : lay the former in a large dish, and sprin 
 kle half the sugar in fine powder over ; give a gen¬ 
 tle shake to the dish, that the sugar may touch the 
 under sides of the fruit. Next day make a thin sy¬ 
 rup with the remainder of the sugar, and, instead of 
 water, allow one pint of red currant juice to every 
 pound of strawberries ; in this, simmer them until 
 sufficiently jellied. Choose the largest scarlets, or 
 others, when not dead ripe. In either of the above 
 ways, they eat w'ell served in thin cream, in glasses. 
 
 They are for desserts : and are also useful as A 
 Stomachic, to carry in the pocket or on long journeys, 
 or for gentlemen when shooting, and for gouty sto¬ 
 machs. 
 
 To preserve Strawberries in Wine. 
 
 Put a quantity of the finest large strawberries into 
 a large gooseberry bottle, and strew in three large 
 spoonfuls of fine sugar; fill up with Madeira wine, or 
 tine sherry. 
 
 To dry Cherries the best way. 
 
 To every five pounds of cherries stoned, weigh 
 one of sugar double refined. Put the fruit into the 
 preserving pan with very little water, make both scald¬ 
 ing hot ; take the fruit out and immediately dry them ; 
 put them into the pan again, strewing the sugar be- 
 
178 
 
 tween each layer of cherries ; let it stand to melt; 
 then set the pan on the fire, and make it scalding hot 
 as before ; take it off, and repeat this thrice with 
 the sugar. Drain them from the syrup ; and lay 
 them singly to dry on dishes, in the sun or on a stove. 
 When dry, put them into a sieve, dip it into a pan of 
 cold water, and draw it instantly out again, and pour 
 them on a fine soft cloth ; dry them, and set them 
 once more in the hot sun, or on a stove. Keep 
 them in a box, with layers of white paper, in a dry 
 place. This way is the best to give plumpness to 
 the fruit, as well as colour and flavour. 
 
 Cherries in Brandy. 
 
 Weigh the finest morellas, having cut off halfthe 
 stalk ; prick them with a new needle, and drop them 
 into a jar or wide mouthed bottle. Pound three quar¬ 
 ters the weight ofsugar or white candy ; strew over ; 
 fill up with brandy, and tie a bladder over. 
 
 Cherry Jam. 
 
 To twelve pounds of Kentish or duke cherries, 
 when ripe, weigh one pound of sugar ; break the 
 stoics of part, and blanch them ; then put them to 
 the n uit and sugar, and boil all gently till the jam 
 comes clear from the pan Pour it into China plates 
 to come up dry to table. Keep inboxes with white 
 paper between. 
 
 Currant Jam , black, red, or white. 
 
 Let the fruit be very ripe, pick it clean from the 
 stalks, bruise it, and to every pound put three quar¬ 
 ters of a pound of loaf-sugar ; stir it well and boil 
 half an hour. 
 
 Currant Jelly, red or black. 
 
 Strip the fruit and in a stone jar strew them in a 
 sauce-pan of water, or by boiling it on the hot hearth ; 
 
170 
 
 strain off the liquor, and to every pint weigh a 
 pound of loaf-sugar ; put the latter in large lumps 
 into it, in a stone or China vessel, till nearly dis¬ 
 solved ; then put it in a preserving-pan ; simmer 
 and skim as necessary. When it will jelly on a 
 plate, put it in small jars or glasses. 
 
 Apple Marmalade. 
 
 Scald apples till they will pulp from the core 
 then take an equal weight of sugar in large lumps 
 just dip them in water, and boiling it till it can be 
 well skimmed, and is a thick syrup, put to it the 
 pulp, and simmer it on a quick fire a quarter of an 
 hour. Grate a little lemon-peel before boiled, but 
 if too much it will be bitter. 
 
 Apple Jelly for preserving Apricots, or any sort oj 
 Sweetmeats. 
 
 Let apples be pared, quartered, and cored ; put 
 them into a stew-pan with as much water as will co¬ 
 ver them, boil as fast as possible ; when the fruit is 
 all in a mash, add a quart of water ; boil half an 
 hour more, and run through a jelly-bag. 
 
 If in summer, codlins are best: in Septembei 
 golden rennets, or winter pippins. 
 
 Red Apples in Jelly. 
 
 Pare and core some well shaped apples, pippins, 
 or golden rennets if you have them, but others will 
 do : throw them into water as you do them, put 
 them in a preserving-pan and with as little water as 
 will only half cover them ; let them coddle, and 
 when the lower side is done turn them. Observe 
 that they do not lie too close when first put in. Mix 
 some pounded cochineal with the water, and boil 
 with the fruit. When sufficiently done, take them 
 out on the dish they are to be served in, the stalks 
 
 % 
 
180 
 
 downwards. Take the water and make a rich jelly 
 of it with loaf-sugar, boiling the thin rind and juice 
 of a lemon. When come to a jelly let it grow cold, 
 and put it on and among the apples ; cut the peel o. 
 the lemon in narrow strips, and put across the eye 
 of the apple. 
 
 Observe that the colour be tine from the first, or 
 the fruit will not afterwards gain it, and use as little 
 of the cochineal as will serve, lest the syrup taste 
 bitter. 
 
 Dried Apples. 
 
 Put them in a cool oven six or seven times, and 
 flatten them by degrees, and gently, when soft 
 enough to bear it. If the oven be too hot they will 
 waste, and at first it should be very cool. 
 
 The biffin, the minshul crab, or any tart apples, 
 are the sort for drying. 
 
 To preserve Jargane Pears most, beautifully. 
 are them very thin, and simmer in a thin syrup ; 
 let them lie a day or two. Make the syrup richer, 
 and simmer again, and repeat this till they are clear ; 
 then drain, and dry them in the sun or a cool oven 
 a very little time. They may be kept in syrup, 
 and dried as wanted, which makes them more moist 
 and rich. 
 
 Goosberry Jamfor*Tarts. 
 
 Put twelve pounds of the red hairy gooseberries, 
 when ripe and gathered in dry weather, into a pre¬ 
 serving-pan, with a piut of currant-juice, drawn as 
 for jelly : let them boil pretty quick, and beat them 
 with the spoon, when they begin to break, put to 
 them six pounds of pure white Lisbon sugar, and 
 simmer slowly to a jam. It requires long boiling or 
 will not keep : but is an excellent and reasonable 
 thing for tarts or puffs. Look at it in two or three 
 
days, and if the syrup and fruit separate, the whole 
 must be boiled longer. Be careful it does not burn 
 to the bottom 
 
 White Gooseberry Jam. 
 
 Gather the finest white gooseberries, or green if 
 you choose, when just ripe, top and tail them. To 
 each pound put three quarters of a pound of fine 
 sugar, and half a pint of water. Boil and clarify the 
 sugar in the water as before directed, then add 
 the fruit, simmer gently till clear, then break it, and 
 in a few minutes put the jam into small pots. 
 
 Raspberry Jam. 
 
 Weigh equal quantities of fruit and sugar, put the 
 former into a preserving-pan, boil and break it, stir 
 constantly, and let it boil very quickly. When 
 most of the juice is wasted, add sugar, and simmer 
 half an hour. This way the jam is greatly superior 
 in colour and flavour to that which is made by put¬ 
 ting the sugar in at first. 
 
 To preserve Greengages. 
 
 Choose the largest, when they begin to soften ; 
 split them without paring, and strew a part of the 
 sugar which you have previously weighed an equal 
 quantity of. Blanch the kernels with a small sharp 
 knife. Next day, pour the syrup from the fruit, and 
 boilitwith, the other sugar, six or eight minutes, ve¬ 
 ry gently ; skim and add the plums and kernels. — 
 Simmer till clear, taking off any scum that rises : 
 put the fruit singly into small pots, and pour the sy- 
 tup and kernels to it. If you would candy it, do 
 riot add the syrup, but observe the directions that 
 will be given for candying fruit ; some may be done 
 each way. 
 
 Damson Cheese. 
 
 Babe or boil the fruit in a stone jar in a sauce-pan 
 
 16 
 
182 
 
 of water, or on a hot hearth. Pour off some of the 
 juice, and to every two pounds of fruit weigh halt 
 a pound of sugar. Set the fruit over a fire in the 
 pan, let it boil quickly till it begin to look dry ; take 
 out the stones, and add the sugar, stir it well in, and 
 simmer two hours slowly, then boil it quickly half 
 an hour, till the sides of the pan candy : pour the 
 jam then into potting-pans or dishes about an inch 
 thick, so that it may cut firm. If the skins be dis¬ 
 liked, then thejuice is not to be taken out ; but af¬ 
 ter the first process, the fruit is to be pulped through 
 a very coarse sieve with the juice, and managed as 
 above. The stones are to be cracked, or some of 
 them, and the kernels boiled in the jam. All the 
 juice may be left in, and boiled to evaporate, but do 
 not add the sugar until it has done so. The above 
 looks well ia shapes. 
 
 Quince Marmalade. 
 
 Pare and quarter quinces, weigh an equal quantity 
 of sugar, to four pounds of the latter put a quart ot 
 water, boil and skim, and have it ready against four 
 pounds of quinces are tolerably tender by the fol¬ 
 lowing mode; lay them in a stone jar, with a tea¬ 
 cup of water at the bottom, and pack them with a lit¬ 
 tle sugar strewed between : cover the jar close, and 
 set it on a stove or cool oven, and let them soften till 
 the colour become red ; then pour the fruit-syrup 
 and a quart of quince juice into a preserving-pan, and 
 boil all together till the marmalade be unpleted, 
 breaking the lumps of fruit with the preserving ladle. 
 
 This fruit is so hard, that if it be not done as above, 
 it requires a great deal of time. 
 
 Stewing quinces in ajar, and then squeezing them 
 through a cheese cloth, is the best methed of ob 
 
183 
 
 fcaining the juice to add as above ; and aip the cloth 
 in boiling water first and wring it. 
 
 To preserve whole or half Quinces. 
 
 Into two quarts of boiling water put a quantity of 
 the fairest golden pippins, in slices not very thin, and 
 not pared, put wiped clean. Boil them very quick, 
 close covered, till the water becomes a thick jelly ; 
 then scald the quinces. To every pint of pippin jel¬ 
 ly put a pound of the finest sugar ; boil it and skim 
 it clear. Put those quinces that are to be done 
 whole into the syrup at once, and let it boil very 
 fast ; and those that are to be in halves by them¬ 
 selves ; skim it, and when the fruit is clear, pul 
 some of the syrup into a glass to try whether it jel¬ 
 lies before taking off the fire. The quantity of 
 quinces is to be a pound to a pound of sugar, and a 
 pound of jelly already boiled with the sugar. 
 
 Raspberry Cakes. 
 
 Pick out any bad raspberries that are among the 
 fruit, weigh and boil what quantity you please, and 
 when mashed, and the liquor is wasted, put to it 
 sugar the vveight of the fruit you first put into the 
 pan, mix it well off the fire until perfectly dissolved, 
 then put it on China plates, and dry it in the sun. 
 As soon as the top part dries, cut with the cover of 
 a canister into small cakes, turn them on fresh 
 plates, and when dry, put them in boxes with layers 
 of paper. 
 
 TO FRESKRVE FRUITS FOR WINTER USE. 
 
 Sweetmeats should be kept carefully from the 
 air, and in a very dry place, unless they have a very 
 small proportion of sugar, a warm one does not hurt, 
 but when not properly boiled (that is long enough, 
 put not quick,) heat makes them ferment; and 
 
134 
 
 damp causes them to grow mouldy. They should 
 be looked at two or three times in the first two 
 months, that they may be gently boiled again, if not 
 likely to keep. 
 
 Jellies of fruit made with equal quantity of sugar, 
 that is a pound to a pint, require no very long boil¬ 
 ing. 
 
 A pap should be kept for the purpose of preserv¬ 
 ing ; of double block tin, with a bow handle oppo¬ 
 site the straight one for safety, will do very well . 
 and if put by nicely cleaned, in a dry place, when 
 done with, will last for several years. Those of 
 copper or brass are improper, as the tinning wears 
 out by the scraping of the sweetmeat-ladle. There 
 is a new sort of iron with a strong tinning, which 
 promises to wear long. Sieves and spoons should 
 be kept likewise for sweet things. 
 
 Sweetmeats keep best in drawers that are not 
 connected with a wall. If there be the least damp, 
 cover them only with paper dipped in brandy, laid 
 quite close ; putting a little fresh over in spring, to 
 prevent insect mould. 
 
 When any sweetmeats are directed to be dried in 
 the sun or in a stove, it will be best in private fami¬ 
 lies, where there is not a regular stove for the pur¬ 
 pose, to put them in the sun on flag stones, which 
 reflect the heat, and place a garden glass over them 
 to keep insects off; or if put into an oven, take care 
 not to let it be too warm, and watch that they do 
 properly and slowly. 
 
 To keep Currants. 
 
 The bottles being perfectly clean and dry, let the 
 currants be cut from the large stalks with the smal¬ 
 lest bit of stalk to each, that the fruit not being 
 wounded, no moisture may be among them It is 
 
185 
 
 necessary to gather them when the weather is quite 
 dry ; and if the servant can be depended upon it is 
 best to cut them under the trees, and let them drop 
 gently into the bottles. 
 
 Stop up the bottles with cork and rosin, and put 
 them into the trench in the garden with the neck 
 downwards ; sticks should be placed opposite to 
 where each sort of fruit begins. 
 
 Cherries and Damsons keep in the same way. 
 
 Currants may be scalded as directed for goose¬ 
 berries, the first method. 
 
 To keep Codlins for several months. 
 
 Gather codlins at midsummer, of a middling size, 
 put them into an earthen pan, pour boiling water 
 over them, and cover the pan with cabbage-leaves. 
 Keep them by the fire till they would peel, but do 
 not peel them : then pour the water off'till both are 
 quite cold. Place the codlins then in a stone jar 
 with a small mouth, and pour on them the water that 
 scalded them. Cover the pot with bladder wetted, 
 and tied very close, and then over it with coarse pa¬ 
 per tied again. 
 
 It is best to be kept in small jars, such as will be 
 used at once when opened. 
 
 To keep Gooseberries. 
 
 Before they become too large, let them be ga¬ 
 thered, and take care not to cut them in taking off 
 the stalks and buds. Fill wide-mouthed bottles ; put 
 the corks loosely in, and set the bottle up to the neck 
 in water in a boiler. When the fruit looks scalded, 
 take them out ; and when perfectly cold, cork close, 
 and rosin the top. Dig a trench in a part of the 
 garden least used, sufficiently deep for all the bot¬ 
 tles to stand, and let the earth be thrown over, to co¬ 
 ver them a foot and a ha‘f. When the frost comes 
 
 6 * 
 
186 
 
 on, a little fresh litter from the stable will prevent 
 the ground from hardening, so that the fruit cannot 
 be dug up. Or, scald as above ; when cold fill the 
 bottles with cold water, cork them, and keep them 
 in a damp or dry place ; they will not be spoiled. 
 
 To keep Damsons for winter Pies. 
 
 Put them in small stone jars, or wide mouthed 
 bottles ; set them up to their necks in a boiler ol 
 cold water : and lighting a fire under, scald them. 
 Next day, when perefctly cold, fill up with spring 
 water, cover them. 
 
 Another way. —Boil one third as much sugar as 
 fruit with it, over a slow fire, till the juice adheres 
 to the fruit, and forms a jam. Keep it in small jars 
 in a dry place. If too sweet, mix with it some of 
 the fruit that is done without sugar. 
 
 To preserve Fruit for Tarts, or Family-desserts. 
 
 Cherries, plums of all sorts, and American apples, 
 gather when ripe, and lay them in small jars that will 
 hold a pound : strew over each jar six ounces of 
 good loaf-sugar pounded ; cover with two bladders 
 each, separately tied down ; then set the jars in a 
 large stew-pan of water up to the neck, and let it 
 boil th-ree hours gently. Keep these and all other 
 sorts of fruit free from damp. 
 
 To keep Lemon Juice. 
 
 Buy the fruit when cheap, keep it in a cool place, 
 two or three days : if too unripe to squeeze readily, 
 cut the peel off some, and roll them under your 
 hand to make them part with the juice more readily, 
 others you may leave unpared for grating, when the 
 pulp shall be taken out and dried. Squeeze the 
 juice into a China basin ; then strain it through 
 some muslin which will not nermit the least pulp to 
 
1S7 
 
 pass. Have ready half and quarter ounce phials 
 perfectly dry, fill them with the juice so near the 
 top as only to admit half a tea-spoonful of sweet oil 
 into each ; or a little more, if for larger bottles.— 
 Cork the bottles, and set them upright in a cool 
 place. 
 
 When you w r ant lemon juice open such a sized 
 bottle as you shall use in two or three days ; wind 
 some clean cotton round a skewer, and dipping it in 
 the oil will be attracted ; and when all shall be re¬ 
 moved the juice w .11 be as fine as when first bottled. 
 
 Hang the peels up till dry ; then keep them from 
 the. dust. 
 
 China-orange Juice. A vary useful thing to mix with 
 
 water in Fevers , when the fresh juice cannot he pro¬ 
 cured. 
 
 Squeeze from the finest fruit, a pint of juice strain¬ 
 ed through fine muslin, and gently simmer with three 
 quarters of a pound of double refined sugar twenty 
 minutes : when cold, put in small bottles. 
 
 Different ways of dressing Cranberries. 
 
 For pies and puddings, with a good deal of sugar. 
 
 Stewed in a jar, with the same ; which way they 
 eat well with bread, and are verv wholesome. 
 
 Thus done, pressed and strained, the juice makes 
 a fine drink for people in fevers. 
 
 Orgeat. 
 
 Bod a quart of new milk with a stick of cinnamon, 
 sweeten to your taste, and let it grow cold ; then 
 pour it by degrees to three ounces of almonds, and 
 twenty bitter, that have been blanched and beaten 
 to a paste, with a little water to prevent oiling ; boil 
 all together, and stir till cold, then add half a glass 
 of brandy. 
 
188 
 
 Another way. —Blanch and pound three quarters 
 of a pound of almonds, and thirty bitter, with a spoon¬ 
 ful of water. Stir in by degrees two pints of wa¬ 
 ter, and three of milk, and strain the whole through 
 a cloth Dissolve half a pound of fine sugar in a 
 pint of water, boil and skim it well ; mix it with the 
 other, as likewise two spoonfuls of orange-flower 
 water, and a tea-cupful of the best brandy. 
 
 Lemonade to be made a day before wanted. 
 
 Pare two dozen of tolerably sized lemons as thin 
 as possible, put eight of the rinds into three quarts 
 of hot, not boiling water, and cover it over for three or 
 four hours. Rub some fine sugar on the lemons to 
 attract the essence, and put it into a China bowl, in¬ 
 to which squeeze the juice of the lemons. To it 
 add one pound and a half of fine sugar, then put 
 the water to the above, and three quarts of milk 
 made boiling hot ; mix, and pour through a jelly-bag 
 till perfectly clear. 
 
 Lemonade that has the flavour und appearance of Jelly. 
 
 Pare two Seville oranges and six lemons as thin as 
 possible, and steep them four hours in a quart of hot 
 water. Boil a pound and a quarter of loaf-sugar in 
 three pints of water, and skim it. Add the two li¬ 
 quors to the juice of six China oranges, and twelve 
 lemons : stir the whole well, and run it through a 
 jelly-bag till clear. Then add a little orange-water, 
 if you like the flavour, and, if wanted, more sugar. 
 It will keep well if corked. 
 
 Raspberry Vinegar. 
 
 Put a pound of fine fruit into a China bowl, and 
 pour upon it a quart of the best white wine vinegar : 
 next day strain the liquor on a pound of fresh rasp¬ 
 berries : and the following day do the same, but do 
 not squeeze the fruit, only drain the liquor as dry as 
 
16 D 
 
 you can from it. The last time pass it through a 
 canvass previously wet with vinegar to prevent 
 waste. Put it into a stone jar, with a pound of su¬ 
 gar to every pint of juice, broken into large lumps ; 
 stir it when melted, then put the jar into a sauce¬ 
 pan of water, or on a hot hearth, let it simmer and 
 skim it. When cold, bottle it. 
 
 This is one of the most useful preparations that 
 can be kept in a house, not only as affording the 
 most refreshing beverage ; but being of singular ef¬ 
 ficacy in complaints of the chest. A large spoonful 
 or two in a tumbler of water. Be careful to use no 
 glazed nor metal vessel for it. 
 
 The fruit, with an equal quantity of sugar, makes 
 excellent Raspberry Cakes without boiling. 
 
 CAKES, BREAD, &.C. 
 
 Observations on making and baking Cakes . 
 
 Eggs should be very long beaten, whites and yolks 
 apart, and always strained. 
 
 Sugar should be rubbed to a powder on a clean 
 board, and sifted through a very fine hair or lawn 
 sieve. 
 
 Lemon-peel should be pared very thin, and with 
 a little sugar beaten in a marble mortar, to a paste, 
 and then mixed with a little wine, or cream, so as to 
 divide easily among the other ingredients. 
 
 Whether black or white plum-cakes, they require 
 less butter and eggs for having yeast, and eat equally 
 light and rich. If the leaven be only of flour, milk 
 and water, and yeast, it becomes more tough, and is 
 less easily divided, than if the butter be first put 
 with those ingredients, and the dough afterwards set 
 to rise bv the fire 
 
190 
 
 The heat of the oven is of great importance fo: 
 cakes, especially those that are large. If not pretty 
 quick, the batter will not rise, Should you fear its 
 catching by being too quick, put some paper over the 
 cake to prevent its being burnt. If not long enough 
 lighted to have a body of heat, or it is become slack, 
 the cake will be heavy. To know when it is soaked, 
 take a broad-bladed knife that is very bright, and 
 plunge into the very centre, draw it instantly out, 
 and if the least stickiness adhere, put the cake im¬ 
 mediately in, and shut up the oven. 
 
 Iceingfor Cakes. 
 
 For a large one, beat and sift eight ounces of fine 
 sugar, put into a mortar with four spoonfuls of rose¬ 
 water, and the whites of two eggs beaten and strain¬ 
 ed, whisk it well, and when the cake is almost cold, 
 dip a feather in the iceing, and cover the cake well; 
 set it in the oven to harden, but do not let it stay to 
 discolour. Set the cake in a dry place 
 To ice a very large Cake. 
 
 Beat the whites of twenty fresh eggs, then bv de¬ 
 grees beat a pound of double refined sugar sifted 
 through a lawn sieve : mix these well in a deep 
 earthen pan ; add orange-flower water, and a piece 
 of fresh lemon-peel ; of the former enough to fla¬ 
 vour, and no more. Whisk it for three hours till 
 the mixture is thick and white ; then with a thin 
 broad bit of board spread it all over the top and sides, 
 and set it in a cool oven, and an hour will harden it. 
 
 A common Cake. 
 
 Mix three quarters of a pound of flour with half a 
 pound of butter, four ounces of sugar, four eggs, 
 half an ounce of caraways, and a glass of raisin 
 
191 
 
 wine. Beat it well, and bake in a quick oven.—- 
 Fine Lisbon sugar will do. 
 
 A very good common Cake. 
 
 Rub eight ounces ol' butter in two pounds of dried 
 flour, mix it with three spoonfuls of yeast that is not 
 bitter, to a paste. Let it rise an hour and a half ; 
 then mix in the yolks and whites of four eggs beaten 
 apart, one pound of sugar, some milk to make it a 
 proper thickness (abou’t a pint will be sufficient) a 
 glass of sweet wine, the rind of a lemon, and a tea¬ 
 spoonful of ginger. Add either a pound of currants, 
 or some caraways, and beat well. 
 
 An excellent Cake. 
 
 Rub two pounds of dry fine flour, with one of butter, 
 washed in plain and rose-water, mix it with three 
 spoonfuls of yeast in a little warm milk and water. 
 Set it to rise an hour and a half before the fire ; then 
 beat into it two pounds of currants, one pound of su¬ 
 gar sifted, four ounces of almonds, six ounces of 
 stoned raisins, chopped fine, half a nutmeg, cinna¬ 
 mon, alspice, and a few cloves, the peel of a lemon 
 chopped as fine as possible, a glass of wine, ditto of 
 brandy, twelve yolks and whites of eggs beat sepa¬ 
 rately and long, orange, citron and lemon. Beat 
 exceedingly well, and butter the pan. A quick 
 oven. 
 
 Rout-Drop Cakes. 
 
 Mix two pounds of flour, one ditto butter, one 
 ditto sugar, one ditto currants clean and dry ; then 
 wet into a stiff paste, with two eggs, a large spoon of 
 orange-flower water, ditto rose-water, ditto sweet 
 wine, ditto brandy, drop on a tin plate floured ; a 
 very short time bakes them. 
 
 Little white Cal «. 
 
 Pry half a uound of flour, rub into it a very little 
 
pounded sugar, one ounce of butter, one egg, a few 
 caraways, and as much milk and water as to make a 
 paste ; roll it thin, and cut it with the top of a cannis- 
 ter or glass. Bake fifteen minutes on tin plates. 
 
 Little short Cakes. 
 
 Rub into a pound of dried flour four ounces of 
 butter, four ounces of white powdered sugar, one egg, 
 and a spoonful or two of thin cream to make it into 
 a paste. When mixed, put currants into one half, 
 and caraways into the rest. Cut them as before, and 
 bake on tins. 
 
 Plum Cakes. 
 
 Mix thoroughly a quarter of a peck of fine flour, 
 well dried, with a pound of dry and sifted loaf su¬ 
 gar, three pounds of currants washed and very dry, 
 half a pound of raisins stoned and chopped, a quar¬ 
 ter of an ounce of mace and cloves, twenty Jamaica 
 peppers, a grated nutmeg, the peel of a lemon cut 
 as fine as possible, and half a pound of almonds 
 blanched and beaten with orange-flower water.— 
 Melt two pounds of butter in a pint and a quarter of 
 cream, but not hot ; put to it a pint of sweet wine, 
 a glass of brandy, the whites and yolks of twelve 
 eggs beaten apart, and half a pint of good yeast.— 
 Strain this liquid by degrees into the dry ingredients, 
 beating them together a full hour, then butter the 
 hoop, or pan, and bake it. As you put the bat¬ 
 ter into the hoop, or pan, throw in plenty of cit¬ 
 ron, lemon, and orange-candy. 
 
 T f you ice the cake, take half a pound of double 
 refined sugar sifted, and put a little with the white 
 of an egg, beat it well and by degrees pour in the 
 remainder. It must be whisked near an hour, 
 with the addition of a little orange-flower water; but 
 
193 
 
 mind not to put much. When the cake is done, pour 
 the iceing over, and return it to the oven for fifteen 
 minutes ; but if the oven be warm, keep it near the 
 mouth, and the door open, lest the colour be spoiled. 
 
 Very good common Plum Cakes. 
 
 Mix five ounces of butter in three pounds of dry 
 flour, and five ounces of fine Lisbon sugar : add six 
 ounces of currants, washed and dried, and some pi¬ 
 mento finely powdered. Put three spoonfuls of yeast 
 into a Winchester pint of new milk warmed, and mix 
 in, to a light dough with the above. Make it into 
 twelve cakes, and bake on a floured tin halfanhour. 
 
 Little Plum Cakes to keep long. 
 
 Dry one pound of flour, and mix with six ounces 
 of finely pounded sugar ; beat six ounces of butter 
 to a cream, and add to three eggs, Wall beaten, half 
 a pound of currants washed, and nicely dried, and 
 the flour and sugar ; beat all for some time, then 
 dredge flour on tin plates, and drop the batter on 
 them the size of a walnut. If properly mixed, it 
 will be a stiff paste. Bake in a brisk oven. 
 
 A good Pound Cake. 
 
 Beat a pound of butter to a cream, and mix with it 
 the whites and yolks of eight eggs beaten apart.— 
 Have ready warm by the fire, a pound of flour, and 
 the same of sifted sugar, mix them and a few cloves, 
 a little nutmeg and cinnamon, in fine powder toge¬ 
 ther : then by degrees work the dry ingredients into 
 the butter and eggs. When well beaten, add a glass 
 of wine and some caraways. It must be beaten a full 
 hour. Butter a pan, and bake it a full hour in a 
 quick oven. 
 
 The above proportions, leaving out four ounces 
 | 17 
 
1 
 
 194 
 
 of the butter, and the same of sugar, make a less 
 luscious cake, and to most tastes a more pleasant one, 
 A cheap Seed Cake. 
 
 Mix a quarter of a peck of flour with half a pound 
 of sugar, a quarter of an ounce ofalspice, and a little 
 ginger ; melt three quarters of a pound of butter, 
 with half a pint of milk : when just warm, put to it 
 a quarter of a pint of yeast, and work up to a good 
 dough. Let it stand before the fire a few minutes 
 before it goes to the oven ; add seeds, or currants, 
 and bake an hour and a half. 
 
 Queen Cakes. 
 
 Mix a pound of dried flour, the same of sifted su 
 gar, and of washed clean currants. Wash a pound 
 of butter in rose water, beat it well, then mix with 
 it eight eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately, and 
 put in the dry ingredients by degrees; beat the 
 whole an hour ; butter little Ads tea-cups, or sau¬ 
 cers, and bake the batter in, filling only half. Sift 
 a little fine sugar over just as you put into the oven. 
 Shrew sherry Cakes. 
 
 Sift one pound of sugar, some pounded cinnamon, 
 and a nutmeg grated, into three pounds of flour, the 
 finest sort; add a little rose-water to three eggs, 
 well beaten, and mix these with the flour, &c. thea 
 pour into it as much butter melted as will make it a 
 good thickness to roll out. 
 
 Mould it well, and roll thin, and cut it into suco 
 shapes as you like. 
 
 Tunbridge Cakes. 
 
 Rub six ounces of butter quite fine, into a pound 
 of flour, then mix six ounces of sugar, beat and 
 strain two eggs, and make with the above into a paste. 
 Roll it very thin, and cut with the top of a glass ; 
 
195 
 
 prick them with a fork, and cover with caraways, or 
 wash with the white of an egg, and dust a little white 
 sugar over. 
 
 Rice Cake. 
 
 Mix ten ounces of ground rice, three ouices oi 
 flour, eight ounces of pounded sugar ; then sift by 
 degrees into eight yolks and six whites of eggs, and 
 the peel of a lemon shred so fine that it is quite 
 mashed ; mix the whole well in a tin stew-pan over 
 a very slow fire with a whisk, then put it immedi¬ 
 ately into the oven in the same, and bake forty mi¬ 
 nutes. 
 
 Water Cakes 
 
 Dry three pounds of fine flour, and rub into it one 
 pound of sugar sifted, one pound of butter, and one 
 ounce of caraway-seed, Make it into a paste with 
 three quarters of a pint of boiling new milk, roll very 
 thin, and cut into the size you choose ; punch full ot 
 holes, and bake on tin plates in a cool oven. 
 
 Sponge Cake. 
 
 Weigh ten eggs, and their weight in very fine su¬ 
 gar, and that of six in flour ; beat the yolks with the 
 flour, and the whites alone, to a very stiff froth ; 
 then by degrees mix the whites and the flour with 
 the other ingredients, and beat them well half an 
 hour. Bake in a quick oven an hour 
 
 Tea Cakes. 
 
 Rub fine four ounces of butter into eight ounces oi 
 flour, mix eight ounces of currants, and six oi fine 
 Lisbon sugar, two yolks and one white of eggs, and a 
 spoonful of brandy. Roll the paste the thickness 
 of an Oliver biscuit, and cut with a wine-glass.— 
 You may beat the other while, and wash over them ; 
 and either dust sugar, or not, as you like. 
 
190 
 
 Benton Tea Cakes. 
 
 Mix a paste of flour, a little bit of butter, and milk; 
 roll as thin as possible, and bake on a back-stone over 
 the fire, or on a hot hearth. 
 
 A Biscuit Cake. 
 
 One pound of flour, five eggs, well beaten and 
 strained eight ounces of sugar, a little rose or 
 orange-flower water; beat the whole thoroughly, and 
 bake one hour. 
 
 Macaroons. 
 
 Blanch four ounces of almonds, and pound with 
 four spoonfuls of orange-flower water; whisk the 
 whites of four eggs to a froth, then mix it in a pound 
 of sugar, sifted with the almonds, to a paste ; and 
 laying a sheet of wafer-paper on a tin, put it on in 
 different little cakes, the shape of macaroons. 
 
 Wafers. 
 
 Dry the flour well which you intend to use, mix a 
 little pounded sugar, and finely pounded mace with 
 it: then make it into a thick batter with cream : 
 butter the wafer-irons, let them be hot, put a tea¬ 
 spoonful of the butter into them, so bake them care¬ 
 fully, and roll them off the iron with a stick. 
 
 Crack-nuts. 
 
 Mix eight ounces of flour and eight ounces of sugar, 
 melt four ounces of butter in two spoonfuls of raisin 
 wine : then, with four eggs beaten and strained, make 
 into a paste , add caraways, roll out as thin as paper, 
 cut with the top of a glass, wash with the white of 
 an egg, and dust sugar over. 
 
 Cracknels. 
 
 Mix with a quart of flour half a nutmeg grated, the 
 yolks of four eggs beaten, with four spoonfuls of 
 rose-water into a stiff paste, with cold water : then 
 
197 
 
 roll in a pound of butter, and make them into a crack¬ 
 nel-shape ; put them into a kettle of boiling water, 
 and boil them till they swim, then take out, and put 
 them into cool water ; when hardened, lay them out 
 to dry, and bake them on tin plates. 
 
 A good plain Bun, that may be eaten with or 
 without toasting and butter. 
 
 Rub four ounces of butter into two ponnds of flour, 
 four ounces of sugar, a nutmeg or not, as you like : 
 a few Jamaica-peppers : a dessert spoonful of cara¬ 
 ways ; put a spoonful or two of cream into a cup of 
 yeast, and as much good milk as will make the above 
 into a light paste. Set it to rise by a fire till the 
 oven he ready. They will quickly bake on tins. 
 
 Gingerbread. 
 
 Mix with two pounds of flour, half a pound of 
 treacle, three quarters of an ounce of caraways, one 
 ounce of ginger finely sifted, and eight ounces of but¬ 
 ter. 
 
 Roll the paste into what form you please, and bake 
 on tins, after having worked it very much, and kept 
 it to rise. 
 
 If you like sweetmeats, add orange candied ; it 
 may be added in small bits. 
 
 A good plain sort .— Mix three pounds of flour with 
 half a pound of butter, four ounces of brown sugar, 
 half an ounce of pounded ginger; then make into a 
 paste with one pound and a quarter of treacle warm. 
 
 Rusks. 
 
 Beat seven eggs well and mix w ith half a pint of 
 new milk, in which have been melted four ounces 
 of butter ; add to it a quarter of a pint of yeast, and 
 three ounces of sugar, and put them, by degrees, 
 
 , into as much flour as will make a very light paste, 
 
 17 * 
 
198 
 
 rather like a batter, and let it rise before the fire 
 half an hour ; then add some more flour, to make it 
 a little stiffer, but not stiff. Work it well, and di¬ 
 vide it into small loaves, or cakes, about five or six 
 inches wide, and flatten them. When baked and 
 cold, slice them the thickness of rusks, and put them 
 in the oven to brown a little. 
 
 Note .—The cakes, when first baked, eat delicious¬ 
 ly, buttered, for tea ; or, with caraways, to eat cold. 
 
 BREAD. 
 
 The method of making leaven. 
 
 When leaven is to be first produced, a lump of 
 yeast dough must be put into a pan and set it in a 
 cold damp place. In about ten or fourteen days it 
 will be in a proper state to use as a ferment for bread. 
 At every making of bread, a sufficient quantity of the 
 leavened dough should be laid by for the leaven 
 against the next baking. The makers of bread with 
 leaven, have learnt from experience, that it is best 
 to use the same pan for keeping the leaven and the 
 same tub for making the bread, without ever wash¬ 
 ing them. They are kept clean by scraping. It is 
 always best to borrow a piece of leaven, to begin 
 with, if this can be done, rather than to make it for 
 immediate use. 
 
 To make Perpetual Yeast. 
 
 Take a pound of fine flour, and mix it up with 
 boiling water to about the thickness of a moderately 
 thick water gruel; add half a pound of coarse moist 
 sugar, and when it is milk warm pour it upon three 
 large spoonfuls of well purified yeast in a pan large 
 enough to give room for the fermentation. As it 
 ferments take olf the yeast and put it into a stone 
 bottle with a small neck, cork it, and keep it in a dry 
 warm place. When half used replenish it with 
 
199 
 
 dour and water prepared as at first, but no addition 
 of yeast will be required. This is to be the regu¬ 
 lar process to keep up the stock. 
 
 Artificial Yeast. 
 
 Boil some meal) potatoes till they are soft, then- 
 peel them, and when brufsed add as much boiling 
 water as will make them of the consistence of com¬ 
 mon yeast. To every pound of potatoes put in two 
 ounces of coarse moist sugar or treacle, and two ta¬ 
 ble spoonfuls of good yeast, stirred in while the po¬ 
 tatoes are warm. Make this in a vessel large enough 
 to admit of the fermentation, and keep it warm till it 
 has done fermenting. It will then be fit for use. — 
 Let it be kept in a cellar. 
 
 To make Bread with Leaven. 
 
 The proportion of leaven to flour, is a piece of 
 the size of a goose’s egg to half a peck of flour.— 
 Take such quantities of each as the occasion may de¬ 
 mand, make a hole in the middle of the flour, break 
 the leaven into it, and put as much water, made blood 
 warm, as will wet half the flour. Mix the leaven 
 and flour well together, then cover it over close 
 with the remainder of the flour, and let it stand all 
 night. The next morning the whole lump will be 
 well fermented or leavened. Add as much warm 
 water, taking care it is not warmer than blood, as 
 will mix it, and knead it up very stiff and firm till it 
 be smooth and pliable. The more pains that are 
 taken in kneading the dough, the better and smooth¬ 
 er the bread will cut; as well as tasting softer and 
 pleasanter in the mouth, and being easier of diges¬ 
 tion. W ! ™ <be dough is well kneaded, let it stand 
 by the fire «... m two hours, then make it up into 
 loaves and bake them. The time of baking must 
 
200 
 
 ■depend on the size of the loaves. A quarten loaf 
 will require two hours and a half. Some salt must be 
 added in the morning with the fresh quantity of wa¬ 
 ter. 
 
 To make bread with Yeast. 
 
 Put half a bushel of flour into a trough, mix half a 
 pint of good thick yeast with two quarts of water, 
 milk warm ; make a hole in the middle of the flour, 
 pouf this into it, and mix it lightly with a part of the 
 flour into a kind of batter. Strew a handful of flour 
 over it, and let the remainder lie round it. This is 
 called setting the sponge, and should be done in the 
 evening. By the next morning it will be much .en. 
 Add then two more quarts of water, milk warn vitb 
 two ounces of salt in it. Work it up into a 'etty 
 stiff dough, knead it thoroughly, and let it e for 
 two or three hours. Then mould it up into aves, 
 and bake them according to the size. A quarten loaf 
 requires two hours and a half in a well heated oven, 
 and smaller loaves in proportion. 
 
 If the yeast is Pot very thick and good, some ad¬ 
 dition must be made in the quantity to make up for 
 it. 
 
 The above receipt is for fine flour ; for flour with 
 only the coarse bran taken out, a rather larger pro¬ 
 portion of water must be used. 
 
 If the flour is dry it will require more water than 
 when fresh. The above receipt is intended for 
 fresh flour. 
 
 In cold weather the dough should be set by the fire 
 to rise after it is kneaded : and the water may be 
 used rather warmer, but must never be hot. 
 
 To make Bread with a mixture of Rice. 
 
 Stew a pound of whole rice in water till it is quite 
 tender, pour off the water, and put the rice before 
 
it is cold to four pounds and a half of wheaten flour-. 
 Add the usual quantity of yeast, (about a quarter of 
 a pint,) rather more than the usual quantity of salt, 
 and as much luke-warm water as will make it into 
 dough. It will require the same time to rise as com¬ 
 mon bread, and is to be baked in the same manner. 
 
 The produce of the above quantities, viz. five 
 pound* and a half, is ten pounds of bread. The rice 
 is not perceptible in it, so that it is in appearance 
 the s line as is of wheaten flour alone. It eats well, 
 and is not as soon stale as the common bread. If the 
 dough is mixed up with the w; ter the rice was boiled 
 in, it gives the bread more suostance. 
 
 Potato and riour Bread. 
 
 Weigh half a pound of mealy potatoes after they 
 are boiled or steamed, and rub them, while warm, in¬ 
 to a pound and a half of fine flour dried for a little 
 while before the fire. When thoroughly mixed, 
 put in a spoonful and a half of yeast, a little salt, and 
 warm milk and water enough to worK it into dough. 
 Let this stand by the fire to rise for an hour and a 
 half, then make it into a loaf and bake it in a mode¬ 
 rately brisk oven. 
 
 If baked in a tin the crust will be more delicate, 
 
 but the bread dries sooner. 
 
 Another Potato and Flour Bread. 
 
 To two pounds of well boiled mealy potatoes rub¬ 
 bed between the hands till they' are as fine as flour, 
 mix in thoroughly two large double handtuls ol whea¬ 
 ten flour, three good spoonfuls of yeast, a little salt, 
 and warm milk enough to make it the usual stiffness 
 of dough. Let it stand three or four hours to rise, 
 then mould it, make it up, and bake it like common 
 bread. 
 
202 
 
 Rolls with a mixture of Potatoes. 
 
 Dry a pound and a half of flour. Bruise a pound 
 of well boiled, me ly potatoes, and work them with 
 half an ounce of butter, and half a pint of milk, till 
 they will pass through a colander. Put a quarter 
 of a pint of warm water to a quarter of a pint of 
 yeast, add these and some salt to the potatoes, and 
 mix the whole up with the flour. If it works up too 
 stiff a little more milk must be added. When it is 
 well kneaded, set it before the fire to rise, for half 
 an hour, then work it up into common sized rolls, 
 and bake hem half an/hour in a pretty quick oven. 
 
 Frtnch Rolls. 
 
 Rub an ounce of batter into a pound of flour ; add 
 to ii one egg, <two spoonfuls of yeast, and a little 
 salt, mixed with as much milk just warmed, as will 
 make it into a light paste. Let this rise half an hour, 
 then make it into moderate sized rolls, and set them 
 before the fire for an hour longer. Half an hour 
 will bake them, in a quick oven. 
 
 Long Rolls. 
 
 Take two pounds of flour, rub into it two ounces 
 of butter, and two ounces of loaf sugar finely pow¬ 
 dered. Put to these four large spoonfuls of pretty 
 thick yeast, and milk enough, made just warm, to 
 mix it into a light paste. Set this before the fire to 
 rise for half an hour, then roll out the dough thin, 
 into moderate lengths, let them stand before the fire 
 an hour, and then bake them in a slac oven for half 
 an hour. 
 
 Yorkshire Cakes. 
 
 Dry a pound and a half of flour before the fire. 
 Beat up the yolks of two eggs, with two spoonfuls 
 of good new yeast, and add to these three-quarters 
 of a pint of new milk just warmed. Strain the whole 
 
203 
 
 through a sieve into the flour. Mix it lightly into a 
 dough, and let it rise by the fire for an hour. Make 
 it up into cakes about the size of a large saucer, put 
 them on a tin, and let them stand before the fire for 
 a little while, before they are set into the oven.— 
 Half an hour will bake them. The oven should be 
 moderately hot. 
 
 Three ounces of fresh butter rubbed into the flour 
 will make these cakes eat shorter, but they are light¬ 
 est without it. 
 
 Yorkshire Knead Cakes. 
 
 Rub six ounces of butter into a pound of flour till 
 it is very fine, mix it into a stiff - paste with milk.— 
 Knead it well, and roll it out several times. On 
 rolling it out the last time, let it.be about an inch 
 thick, and cut it out into cakes, in shapes according 
 to the fancy. B ike them on an irongridle. When 
 done on one side turn them on the other. Cut them 
 open and butter them hot. They also eat well cold 
 or toasted. Half a pound of currants well washed 
 and dried may be added at pleasure. 
 
 Muffins. 
 
 Lay a quarter of a pint of ale yeast of as light a 
 colour as can be got, into cold water, and let it stand 
 all night. The next morning pour the water off 
 clear from it. Warm a quart of water, milk-warm, 
 and stir the yeast, and a quarter of an ounce of salt, 
 well into it for five or six minutes. Strain it into 
 half a peck of fine white flour, mix it into a dough 
 as lightly as possible, and let it lie in the trough for 
 an hour to rise, covered with flannel. Pull the 
 dough into small pieces with the hand, rolling them 
 as done in a good deal of flour, and roll them thin 
 with a rolling-pm, lay them directly under a flannel, 
 
 I and they will rise to a proper thickness. Bake them 
 
204 
 
 upon a hot hearth or an iron stove. When done 
 on one side turn them on the other, but they must 
 not be browned. 
 
 Crumpets. 
 
 The dough may be made as above for the muffins. 
 When it has stood to rise, give it a roll with the 
 hand, pull it into little pieces about the size of a 
 small pullet’s egg, roll them with the hand like a 
 ball, and lay them directly under a flannel. Bake 
 them as above, only these must be lightly browned 
 Tops and Bottoms. 
 
 Beat the yolks of eight eggs, and the whites of four, 
 with a quarter of a pint of yeast. Melt a quarter of 
 a pound of butter in a half pint of new milk, and 
 when about the warmth of milk from the cow, strain 
 it into a pound and a half of flour, with two ounces 
 of powdered sugar mixed into it. Beat this up like 
 a batter rather than work it up into a dough, and 
 set it to rise before the fire for half an hour. Then 
 work it up well with a little more flour, but not to 
 make stiff. Bake it in tins of two inches square in 
 breadth, and three inches high, flattened on all sides. 
 When baked let them stand to cool, then part them 
 in two, and brown them a little in the oven. 
 
 This preparation will also make rusks, if made up 
 into flat cakes about six inches wide, and twelve or 
 fourteen long. When baked, slice them after they 
 are cold the thickness of rusks, and set them into the 
 oven to brown. 
 
 If made up about the size of a common saucer, 
 and eaten after the first baking, they are very nice 
 buttered for tea. 
 
 French Rusks. 
 
 Weigh a pound of yolks of eggs, and a pound and 
 » half of powdered sugar : put these in a pan to- 
 
205 
 
 gether, and stir them about thoroughly with a large 
 wooden spoon for ten minutes. Add an ounce of 
 carraway-seeds, and two pounds of flour. Mix all 
 together into a paste, and mouid it upon a clean pye- 
 board, into rolls of about fourteen or fifteen inches 
 long, and between two or three inches thick. Lay 
 these upon a paper, and press them down with the 
 hand till about an inch thick in the middle, and flat¬ 
 tened down almost to a point at the edges. Put them 
 upon a wire plate with two or three sheets of paper 
 under them, besides the paper they are made upon. 
 Bake them with great care, not to overdo them, as 
 they would then break in the cutting. When they 
 come out of the oven, wet the paper underneath, 
 that they may come off while Wj-irm. Cut them with 
 a sharp knife into rusks about a quarter of an inch 
 thick, lay them flat on the wire, and put them into 
 the oven till crisp and dry. 
 
 Potato Rolls. 
 
 Boil three pounds of potatoes, bruise and work 
 them with two ounces of butter, and as much milk 
 as will make them pass through a colander. Take 
 half or three quarters of a pint of yeast and a half 
 pint of warm water, mix with the potatoes, then 
 pour the whole upon five pounds of flour, and add 
 some salt. Knead it well : if not of a proper con¬ 
 sistence, put a little more milk and water warm; 
 let it stand before the fire an hour to rise : work it 
 well, and make into rolls. Bake about half an hour 
 in an oven not quite so hot as for bread. 
 
 They eat well, toasted and buttered. 
 
 Hard Biscuit. 
 
 Warm two ounces of butter in as much skimmed 
 milk as will make a pound of flour into a very stiff 
 
 18 
 
206 
 
 paste, beat it with a rolling-pin, and work it very 
 smooth. Roll it thin, and cut it into round biscuits ; 
 prick them full of holes with a fork. About six mi¬ 
 nutes will bake them. 
 
 SICK COOKERY. 
 
 Calves' Feet Broth. 
 
 Boil two feet in three quarts of water, to half; 
 strain and set it by ; when to be used, take off the 
 fat, put a large tea-cupful of the jelly into a sauce¬ 
 pan, with half a glass of sweet wine, a little sugar and 
 nutmeg, and heat it up till it be ready to boil, then 
 take a little of it, and beat by degrees to the yolk of 
 an egg, and adding a bit of butter, the size of a nut¬ 
 meg, stir all together, but do not let it boil. Grate 
 a bit of fresh lemon-peel into it. 
 
 Beef Tea . 
 
 Cut a pound of fleshy beef in thin slices ; simmer 
 with a quart of water twenty minutes, after it has 
 once boiled, and been skimmed. Season, if approv¬ 
 ed ; but it has generally only salt. 
 
 Dr. Radcliff's Restorative Pork Jelly. 
 
 Take a leg of well-fed pork, just as cut up, bea«. 
 it, and break the bone, ^et it over a gentle fire, 
 with three gallons of water, and simmer to one. — 
 Let halt an ounce of mace, and the same of nutmegs, 
 stew in it. Strain through a fine sieve. When cold, 
 take off the fat. Give a chocolate-cup the first and 
 last thing, and at noon, putting salt to taste. 
 
 Skank Jelly. 
 
 Soak twelve shanks of mutton four hours, then 
 brush and scour them very clean. Lay them in a 
 sauce-pan with three blades of mace, an onion, twen¬ 
 ty Jamaica and and thirty or forty black peppers, a 
 
207 
 
 bunch of sweet herbs ; and a crust of bread made 
 very brown by toasting. Pour three quarts of wa¬ 
 ter to them, and set them on a hot hearth close co¬ 
 vered : let them simmer as gently as possible for 
 five hours, then strain it off, and put it in a cold 
 place. 
 
 This may have the addition of a pound of beef, if 
 approved, for flavour. It is a remarkable good 
 thing for people who are weak. 
 
 Arrow-root Jelly. 
 
 Of this beware of having the wrong sort, for it has 
 been counterfeited with bad effect. If genuine, it is 
 very nourishing, especially for weak bowels. Put 
 into a sauce-pan half a pint of water, a glass of sher¬ 
 ry or a spoonful of brandy, grafed nutmeg, and fine 
 sugar : boil once up, then mis it by degrees into a 
 dessert-spoonful of arrow-root, previously rubbed 
 smooth with two spoonfuls of'cold water ; then re¬ 
 turn the whole into tho sauce-pan ; stir and boil it 
 three minutes. 
 
 Panada made in Jive minutes. 
 
 Set a little water on the fire with a glass of white 
 wine some sugar, and a scrape of nutmeg and lemon- 
 peel ; meanwhile grate some crumbs of bread. The 
 moment the mixture boils up, keeping it still on the 
 fire put the crumbs in, and let it boil as fast as it 
 can. When of a proper thickness justto drink, take 
 it off. 
 
 Another .—Put to the water a bit of lemon-peel, 
 mix the crumbs in, and when nearly boiled enough, 
 put some lemon or orange syrup. Observe to 
 boil all the ingredients ; for if any he added after, 
 the panada will break, and notjelly. 
 
 Chicken Panada. 
 
 Boil it till about three pijrts ready, in a quart ol 
 
208 
 
 water, take it off the skin, cut the white meat off 
 when cold, and put into a marble mortar : pound it 
 to a paste with a httle of the water it was boiled in, 
 season with a little salt, a grate of nutmeg, and the 
 least bit of lemon-peel. Boil gently for a few mi¬ 
 nutes to the consistency you like : it should be such 
 as you can drink, though tolerably thick. 
 
 This conveys great nourishment in small compass. 
 
 Sippets when the stomach will nor receive meat. 
 
 On an extremely hot plate put two or three sip¬ 
 pets of bread, and pour over them some gravy from 
 beef, mutton, or veal if there is no butter in the dish 
 Sprinkle a little salt over. 
 
 A very supporting Broth aginst any kind of 
 weakness. 
 
 Boil two pounds of loin of mutton, with a very 
 large handful of chervil, in two quarts of water to 
 one. Take off part of the fat. Any other herb or 
 roots may be added. Take half a pint three or four 
 times a day. 
 
 A very nourishing Veal Broth. 
 
 Put the knuckle of a leg or shoulder of veal, with 
 very little meat to it, an old fowl, and four shank 
 bones of mutton extremely well soaked and bruised, 
 three blades of mace, ten pepper-corns, an onion, 
 and a large bit of bread, and three quarts of water, 
 into a stew-pot that covers close, and simmer in the 
 slowest manner after it has boiled up, and been 
 skimmed ; or bake it ; strain, and take off the fat. 
 Salt as wanted. It will require four hours. 
 
 Broth of' Beef , Mutton, and Veal. 
 
 Put two pounds of lean beef, one pound of scrag 
 of veal, one pound of scrag of mutton, sweet herbs, 
 and ten pepper-corns, into a nice tin sauce-pan. with 
 five quarts of water, simmer to three quarts, and 
 
20 ( J 
 
 clear from the fat when cold. Add one onion if 
 approved. 
 
 Soup and broth made of different meats, are more 
 supporting, as well as better flavoured. 
 
 To remove the fat, take it off when cold as clean 
 as possible ; and if there be still any remaining, lay 
 a bit of clean blotting or cap paper on the broth 
 when in the basin, and it will take up every particle. 
 
 Eggs. 
 
 An egg broken into a cup of tea, or beaten and mix¬ 
 ed w ith a basin of milk, makes a breakfast more sup¬ 
 porting than a tea solely. 
 
 An egg divided, and the yolk and white beaten se¬ 
 parately, then miked with a glass of wine, will afford 
 two very wholesome draughts,* and prove lighter 
 than when taken together. 
 
 Eggs very little boiled or poached, taken in small 
 quantity, convey much nourishment ; the yolk only, 
 when dressed, ,-hould be eaten by invalids. 
 
 Caudle. 
 
 Make a fine smooth gruel of half-grits ; strain it 
 when boiled well, stir it at times till cold. When to 
 he used, add sugar, wine, and lemon-peel, with nut¬ 
 meg. Some like a spoonful of brandy besides the 
 wine; others like lemon juice. 
 
 Another .—Boil up half a pint of fine gruel, with a 
 bit of butter the size of a large nutmeg, a large 
 spoonful of brandy, the same of white wine, one of 
 capillaire, a bit of lernon-peel and nutmeg. 
 
 Cold Caudle. 
 
 Boil a quart of spring water ; when coid, add the 
 yolk of an egg, the juice of a sm.dl lemon, six spoon¬ 
 fuls of sweet wine, sugar to your taste, and syrup 
 of lemons one ounce. 
 
 18 * 
 
210 
 
 A Flour Caudle. 
 
 Into five large spoonfuls of the purest water, rub 
 smooth one dessert-spoonful of fine flour. Set over 
 the fire five spoonfuls of new milk, and put two bits 
 of sugar into it : the moment it boils, pour into it the 
 flour and water, and stir it over a slow fire twenty 
 minutes. It is a nourishing and gently astringent 
 food. This is an excellent food for babies who have 
 weak bowels. 
 
 Rice Caudle. 
 
 When the water boils, pour into it some grated 
 rice mixed with a little cold water ; when of a pro¬ 
 per consistence, add sugar, lemon-peel, and cinna¬ 
 mon, and a glass of brandy to a quart. Boil all 
 smooth. 
 
 To mull Wine. 
 
 Boil some spice in a little water till the flavour is 
 gained, then add an equal quantity of port, some su¬ 
 gar and nutmeg ; boil together, and serve with 
 toast. 
 
 Another way. —Boil a bit of cinnamon and some 
 grated nutmeg a few minutes, in a large tea-cupful of 
 water ; then pour to it a pint of port wine, and add 
 sugar to your taste : bent it up and it will be ready 
 
 Or it may be made of good British wine. 
 
 Milk Porridge. • 
 
 Make a fine gruel of half grits, long boiled ; strain 
 off; either add cold milk, or warm with milk, as may 
 be approved. Serve with toast. 
 
 French Milk Porridge. 
 
 Stir some oat meal and water together, let it stand 
 to be clear, and pour off the latter ; pour fresh upon 
 it, stir it well, let it stand till next day ; strain 
 a fine sieve, and boil the water, adding milk 
 
211 
 
 while doing. The proportion of water must be 
 small. 
 
 This is much ordered, with toast, for the breakfast 
 of weak persons, abroad. 
 
 Ground Rice Milk. 
 
 Boil one spoonful of ground rice, rubbed down 
 smooth, with three half pints of milk, a bit of cinna¬ 
 mon, lemon-peel, and nutmeg. Sweeten when 
 nearly done. 
 
 Sago. 
 
 To prevent the earthy taste, soak it in cold water 
 an hour ; pour that olf, and wash it well ; then add 
 more, and simmer gently till the berries are clear, 
 with lemon-peel and spice, if approved. Add wine 
 and sugar, and boil all up together. 
 
 Sago Milk. 
 
 Cleanse as above, and boil it slowly, and wholly" 
 with new milk. It sw'ells sd much, that a small 
 quantity will be sufficient for a quart, and when done 
 it will be diminished to about a pint. It requires no 
 sugar or flavouring, 
 
 Asses' Milk 
 
 Far surpasses any imitation of it that can be made. 
 It should be milked into a glass that is kept warm by 
 being in a basin of hot water. 
 
 The fixed air that it contains gives some people a 
 pain in the stomach. At first a tea spoonful of rum 
 may be taken with it, but should only be put in the 
 moment it is to be swallowed. 
 
 Artificial Asses' Milk. 
 
 Boil together a quart of water, a quart of new milk, 
 an ounce of white sugar candy, half an ounce oferin- 
 go root, and half an ounce of conserve of roses, till 
 half be wasted. 
 
0 i 
 
 This is astringent; therefore proportion the doses 
 to the effect, and the quantity to what will be used 
 while sweet. 
 
 Water Gruel. 
 
 Put a large spoonful of oatmeal by degrees into a 
 pint of water, and when smooth, boil it. 
 
 Another way .—Rub smooth a large spoonful of 
 oatmeal, with two of water, and pour it into a pint 
 of water boiling on the fire ; stir it well, and boil it 
 quick ; but take care it does not boil over. In a 
 quarter of an hour strain it off; and add salt and a 
 bit of butter w'hen eaten. Stir until the butter be 
 incorporated. 
 
 Barley Gruel. 
 
 Wash four ounces of pearl barley, boil it in tw_' 
 quarts of water and a stick of cinnamon, till reducen 
 to a quart; strain, and return it into the sauce-pan 
 with sugar, and three quarters of a pint of port wine. 
 Heat up, and use as wanted. 
 
 A refreshing drink in a Fever. 
 
 Put a little tea-sage, two sprigs of balm, and a little 
 wood-sorrel, into a stone jug, having first washed 
 and dried them ; peel thin a small lemon, and clear 
 from the white ; slice it, and put a bit of the peel in ; 
 then pour in three pints of boiling water, sweeten, 
 and cover it close. 
 
 Another drink .—Wash extremely well an ounce 
 of pearl barley ; shift it twice, then put to it three 
 pints of water, an ounce of sweet almonds beaten 
 tine, and a bit of lemon-peel ; boil till you have a 
 smooth liquor, then put in a little syrup of lemons 
 and capillaire. 
 
 A most pleasomt Drink. 
 
 Put a tea-cupful of cranberries into a cup of wa 
 
213 
 
 \ 
 
 ter, and mash them. In the meantime boil two 
 quarts of water with one large spoonful of oatmeal, 
 and a bit of lemon-peel; then add the cranberries, 
 and as much fine Lisbon sugar as shall leave a smart 
 flavour of the fruit ; and a quarter of a pint of sher¬ 
 ry, or less, as may be proper : boil all half an hour, 
 and strain off. 
 
 Soft end fine Draught for those who are weak and 
 
 have a Cough. 
 
 Beat a fresh laid egg, and mix it with a quarter of 
 a pint of new milk warmed, a large spoonful of ca- 
 pillaire, the same of rose-water, and a little nutmeg 
 scraped. Do not warm it after the egg is put in.— 
 Take it the first and last thing. 
 
 Toast and IVdter. 
 
 Toast slowly a thin piece of bread, till extremely 
 brown and hard, but not the least black ; then plunge 
 it into a jug of cold water, and cover it.over an hour 
 before used. This is of particular use in weak bow¬ 
 els. It should be of a fine brown colour before 
 drinking it. 
 
 White-wine Whey. 
 
 Put half a pint of new milk on the fire ; the mo¬ 
 ment it boils up, pour in as much sound raisin wine 
 as will completely turn it, and it looks clear ; let it 
 boil up, then set the sauce-pan aside till the curd 
 subsides, and do not stir it. Pour the whey off, and 
 add to it half a pint of boiling water, and a bit of 
 white sugar. Thus you will have a whey perfectly 
 cleared of milky particles, and as weak as you choose 
 to make it. 
 
 FINIS 
 
CONTENTS 
 
 BEEF, a-!a mode 
 
 27 
 
 FOWL, to boil; do. with rice ; roasted 72 
 
 fricandeau of; rump, to stew 
 
 28 
 
 broiled ; nice way to dress. 
 
 
 brisket, to stew ; to press 
 
 29 
 
 Davenport 
 
 73 
 
 banter’s, to make jjexcelleut 
 
 
 FORCEMEAT, to force fowls or 
 
 
 mode of dressing 
 
 30 
 
 meat, for cold savoury pies ; for 
 
 
 steaks, do. and oyster sauce, 
 
 
 turtle 
 
 10, 
 
 Mewed 
 
 31 
 
 FRITTERS, 
 
 129 
 
 6teaks, Italian ; Collops ; 
 
 
 GAME, directions for dressing 
 
 70 
 
 palates 
 
 32 
 
 to keep 
 
 77 
 
 cakes, side dish ; to pot; 
 
 
 GIBLETS, toBtew 
 
 76 
 
 sirloin, to dres9 
 
 33 
 
 GROUSE, to roast 
 
 79 
 
 fricassee of; olives ; to 
 
 
 GUINEA and Pea-Fowl 
 
 8® 
 
 mince ; to hash 
 
 34 
 
 GRAVY, to keep a week, to dress 
 
 93 
 
 a-la-vingrette ; round of; 
 
 
 clear, brown, or Cullis 
 
 94 
 
 rolled 
 
 35 
 
 for fowl; veal 
 
 95 
 
 heart 
 
 35 
 
 to make mutton eat like 
 
 
 BLACK PUDDINGS, 
 
 58 
 
 venison ; for fish 
 
 96 
 
 BIRDS, cheap way of potting 
 
 78 
 
 HALIBUT, to dress 
 
 14 
 
 BUTTER, to clarify for potted thiogs lb 
 
 HADDOCK, to dry 
 
 17 
 
 to melt 
 
 103 
 
 HERRINGS, to dress ; baked 
 
 13 
 
 BECHAMEL, or white sauce 
 
 94 
 
 fried; broiled 
 
 20 
 
 RREAD, CAKES, ic. 189 tp 213 
 
 HOG’S HEAD, to make excellent 
 
 
 COD, head and shoulders ; crimp 
 
 14 
 
 meat of 
 
 55 
 
 sounds, boiled; do. to look 
 
 
 ears, to force 
 
 55 
 
 like chickens ; do. broiled ; do. ra¬ 
 
 
 puddings, white 
 
 59 
 
 gout! *alt, to dress 
 
 15 
 
 lard 
 
 60 
 
 CRAB hot; dressed, cold 
 
 21 
 
 HOUSE-LAMB STEAKS, brown 
 
 68 
 
 CALF’S HEAD, to boil 
 
 46- 
 
 JELLY, of pig's feet and ears 
 
 59 
 
 to hash ; fricasseed 
 
 47 
 
 savoury, for cold pies 
 
 95 
 
 to collar ; mock turtle 
 
 48 
 
 to cover cold fish 
 
 97 
 
 CALF’S LIVER, 
 
 49 
 
 KITCHEN PEPPER, 
 
 103 
 
 sweetbread ; kidney 
 
 50 
 
 LOBSTERS, to pot; stewed ; but¬ 
 
 
 CHINA CHILO, 
 
 67 
 
 tered 
 
 20 
 
 CHICKENS, fricassee of; to pull; 
 
 
 te roast; currie of, 
 
 21 
 
 eurvil 
 
 74 
 
 LAMB, leg ; fore-quarter ; breast 
 
 
 CRUST, raised, for meat pies, 
 
 
 with cucumbers 
 
 67 
 
 fowls, Sec, 
 
 114 
 
 steaks ; cutlets, with spi¬ 
 
 
 CUSTARDS, lemon, almond, &,c. 
 
 141 
 
 nach ; head and hinge 
 
 68 
 
 CHEESECAKES, 
 
 143 
 
 sweetbreads 
 
 69 
 
 COOKERY, for the sick 207 to 211 
 
 LAMB-STONES, fricasseed 
 
 ib. 
 
 DUCKS, to roast, to boil ; to stew 
 
 75 
 
 nice dish of 
 
 "0 
 
 DUMPLINGS, suet 
 
 127 
 
 LARKS, and other small birds 
 
 77 
 
 yest, or Suffolk 
 
 ib. 
 
 MACKAREL, boiled, 
 
 17 
 
 EELS, spitchcork, fried 
 
 18 
 
 MEATS, to choose 
 
 23 
 
 boiled ; broth ; collared 
 
 19 
 
 MUTTON, shoulder, to stew 
 
 25 
 
 FISH, to choose 
 
 9 
 
 MARROW BONES, 
 
 38 
 
 FLOUNDERS, to fry 
 
 i a 
 
 MOOK BRAWN, 
 
 5& 
 

 ' r