>■■■ fyj ; v •• \ '■i V # ■ Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2017 with funding from Getty Research Institute https://arcbive.org/details/informationdirecOOstar STARKE’S GUIDE THROUGH ITALY, ETC.* ETC. Printed l>y J. Smith, rue Montmorency, N° 16 , INFORMATION AND DIRECTIONS BY MARIANA STARKE. NEW EDITION, THOROUGHLY REVISED, AND WITH CONSIDERABLE ADDITIONS. PARIS : PUBLISHED BY A. AND W. G ALIGN AN I. AT THE ENGLISH, FfiENCII, ITALIAN, GERMAN, AND SPANISH LIBRARY, 18 , RUE VIVIENNE. 1829. ADVERTISEMENT The chief object of the following Work is to comprise, within the compass of One Portable Volume, all the information necessary for Travellers on the Continent of Europe, and the Island of Sicily. To accomplish this purpose it was requisite to examine with exactness, and give a detail, calculated to be read upon the spot, of the ancient edifices, principal museums, and galleries, public and private, in the above-mentioned coun- tries. It was also requisite to copy all the most frequented routes from the post-books lately published by Royal autho- rity; and this has been the Author’s employment during the last three years. The favourable reception given to the fifth Edition of her 66 Information and Directions for Travellers on the Continent,” leads her to hope that the ensuing pages may, in some degree, answer the purpose for which they were written; and ex- onerate Travellers from the necessity of encumbering them- selves, in every metropolis of the Continent, with books published to serve as Guides. At Paris, Strangers are in the habit of purchasing the Post-book, the List of Pictures in the Musec Royal , and the List of Sculptures in the same Museum, added to Galignani’s excellent Paris Guide, and equally excellent Guide through France. At Florence Molini’s accurate description of the Royal Gallery, and Gargiolli’s account of the City, are usually purchased. At Rome Vasi’s Itinerary (two volumes), and the description of the Museum of the Capitol, besides Nibby’s highly and justly estimated publications, are deemed almost indispensable ; as are from ten to twelve Guides at Naples, for the City and its Environs. No complete printed description of the sculpture, frescos, and oil-paintings in the Vatican, and private galleries at Rome, being at the present moment attainable, the Author of the ensuing Work has endeavoured to supply this defi- ciency : and a Guide for Sicily being much wanted, she has given a concise historical account of that Island, and its antiquities, added to Information and Directions for Travellers who may intend going thither.* Rxmouth, September , 1827. * Vide Addenda, following the Index. INTRODUCTION. I submit the Fifth Edition of the following Work to the Public, under a new Title, and much diminished in size ; though consider- ably augmented with respect to useful information ; as it contains a full and faithful account of all the large towns and post-roads in the most frequented parts of the European Continent (many of which roads are only just finished) , ample, and 1 hope euvrect Catalogues of the most valuable specimens of Architecture, Painting, and Sculp- ture, which adorn France, Germany, Italy, etc., together with the opinions of Nardini, Venuli, Winckelmann, and Yisconli, on some of the most celebrated works of Art.* I have likewise considerably enlarged my description of Pompeii, and other Antiquities in Magna Graecia ; doing the whole in the hope of exempting my Compatriots from the necessity of encumbering themselves with those numerous and incomplete publications, which are sold in every large foreign city. I have subjoined an account (founded on very long experience) of the Climates of southern Europe ; at the same time endeavouring ‘2 point out to Travellers every thing most likely to contribute to their comfort : and I have also given an account of the expense attend- ant upon various modes of travelling, the distances charged from post to post on every great road, according to the post-books last pub- lished by royal authority ; and the average price of ready-furnished lodgings, provisions, etc., closing this part of my w r ork with a short comparative view of Family-expenses in various cities of the Conti- nent : so that persons induced, by prudential motives, to reside abroad, may not experience the disappointment of finding their plans defeated by impositions frequently practised upon Strangers. * In the following pages the Reader will find that several of these works of Art are distinguished, according to their reputed merit, by oue or more exclamation-points. VI INTRODUCTION. Accommodations for Travellers, during the last twenty years, have been materially increased in France, Switzerland, and Italy, by the augmentation and improvement of inns; by the erection of fine bridges, which are almost universally substituted for inconvenient and dangerous ferry boats; by the sums bestowed to make roads smooth and level, which were heretofore rough and mountainous ; and by the consummate skill exerted to render those Alps which were only practicable by means of mules, traineaux, and chaises-a-porteur, so easy of ascent that post-horses, attached even to a heavy beriin, now traverse them speedily and safely. With such judgment, indeed, have the sinuosities of Alpine roads been managed, that crane-neck carriages, once absolutely requisite in passing the Alps, are at present needless,: and I cannot dismiss this subject without adding, as a further proof of the great improvements which have lately taken place re- specting roadc on tUe Continent, iWt Airing more than one journey of fifteen hundred miles, through France, Switzerland, and Italy, I never found it needful, except while ascending the Alps andApen- nine, to put more than three horses to my own carriage, an English landaulet, nor to carriages of the same description belonging to the friends by whom I was accompanied. Other circumstances which contribute to the comfort of travelling at the present moment on the Continent, are the increase of ready- furnished lodgings in large cities ; owing in some measure to the po- verty of the Nobles, who often let their palaces to Foreigners; the improvement in mechanics, and consequently in furniture, through- out Italy; the introduction of lamps, by which the streets of every large town are tolerably well lighted; and the stop put, by this .cr: cumstance among others, to the dreadful practice of assassination. But although the comfort of travelling has been thus considerably augmented, the expense of residing on the Continent has been aug- mented likewise ; owing to taxes which, in capital cities, are oppres- sive ; and still more owing to the great influx of British Travellers : nevertheless, as the necessaries of life are not materially enhanced in price any where but at Paris, it is still possible, nay, easy, for persons who understand and practise economy, to live with comfort either in the French, or the Italian territories, without incurring a much larger expense than would haye been needful twenty years since. INTRODUCTION. vii With respect to modes of travelling to Italy, I would advise con- sumptive persons either to go by sea, in a vessel bound for Leghorn, thence proceeding up the Canal of Pisa to that city ; or by sea to Bordeaux, and thence proceeding by the royal Canal of Languedoc, to Marseilles; where vessels bound for Leghorn may be heard of daily. Persons in health, who wish to travel economically, might find their purpose answered by going with the Yoituriers belonging to Emery ; whose carriages set out, almost every week, from London to various parts of the Continent : or by travelling in a public Diligence ; preferring that called the Coche cTeau , whenever attain- able : but persons blessed with health and affluence should travel in their own carriage; going post through France, and, generally speaking, going en voiturier in Switzerland and the Italian Stales. The most frequented post-road from Paris to southern Italy is through Lyons, and over the Mont Cenis to Turin, Bologna, and Florence: but the most interesting route is that to northern Italy, by Dijon, the Jura Alps, Geneva, and the Simplon.* Those persons, however, who wish to trace the revival of the Arts, from the period when Gothic, or perhaps, more properly speaking, Arabesque architecture was brought, by the Crusaders, from the Holy Land, and fostered at Pisa , should first visit that city ; proceeding afterward to Florence and Rome : and in order to accomplish this purpose, the best route from Paris is through Lyons, Avignon, Aix, Nice, and Genoa.f Pisa may with truth be called the Cradle of the Arts ; for Buschetto, a Grecian, so early as the eleventh century, erected the Cathedral which still adorns this city; Diotisalvi, during the twelfth century, erected the Baptistery ; and Guglielmo, a German, aided by Bon- nano, Pisano, began the Campanile about the year 1174. Niccolo, Pisano, his son Giovanni, and Andrea, Pisano, revived the art of Sculpture, in the thirteenth century ; and not only embellished the buildings already erected, but likewise added another, still more beautiful, the celebrated Campo Santo. In the beginning of the thirteenth century also Giunto Pisano revived the art of Painting ; The road from Paris hy the Simplon and through Milan to Florence, is ninety miles shorter than that hy the Mont Cenis to Florence. 1 ^ ee P a § e 102, first part of the following Work: and “Route from Nice through Genoa to Pisa,” Appendix, page 395, vni INTRODUCTION. and was succeeded by Giotto and Cimabue. Those persons, there- fore, who contemplate the productions of the Greco-Pisano School as the earliest efforts of the reviving Arts, cannot fail to be highly gratified ; especially if they afterward proceed to Florence and Rome, and trace the gradual progress of these Arts to that state of maturity which the parental care of the Medicean Princes at length enabled them to attain. I will now close this preface by saying, that, in the hope of being serviceable to those of my compatriots, who, in consequence of pul- monary complaints, are compelled to exchange their native climate for the mild temperature of Italy, I have ventured to make a few observations relative to health, and the result of twelve years’ expe- rience ; during the greater part of which period my time and thoughts were chiefly occupied by endeavours to mitigate the sufferings of those most dear to me : and highly gratified should I feel if the little knowledge I have been able to collect could so far inform Travellers, as to guard them against those serious inconveniences which too generally retard, and not unfrequently prevent, the reco- very of consumptive persons.* Exmouth , September , 1823. * Since the following sheets were printed, two afflictive public events have occurred at Rome : the conflagration which reduced the venerable Basilica of Saint Paul to a heap of ruins ; and the death of Pius VII., one of the most miahle and exemplary sovereigns who have occupied the papal throne. INFORMATION AND DIRECTIONS FOR TRAVELLERS ON THE CONTINENT. CHAPTER I. FRANCE. Calais— Best Road to Paris— Abbey of S. Denis— Paris— Most prominent improvements— Musee Royal des Arts— Musee du Luxembourg— Ecole Royala des Beaux Arts— Public Libraries— Musee d'Histoire Naturelle et Jardin du Roi — Academie Royale de Musique, and other Theatres— Manufacture Royale des Glaces— Manufacture Royale des Tapisseries aux Gobelins — Colonne de la Place Vendome — Arc de Iriomphe de 1’Eloile — -Port S. Denis — Port S. Martin —Tribunal du Corps-Legislatif— Basilique de Notre-Dame— Basilique de la Nouvelle S. Gene- vieve— Garde-meuble— Hotel Royal des Invalides— Institution Royale des Sourds-Muets — Hospice de la Salpetriere — Hopital des Enfans trouves — Observaloire — Palais du Temple — Palais de la Bourse— Greniers de Reserve— Abattoirs— Halle au Ble— Halle aux Vins— Marche a la Volaille et au Gibier— Bridges— Fountains— Burial-places— S. Cloud— -Sevres — Versailles — Present state of Society at Paris — Passports. Ox revisiting Calais, in May, 1817, after an absence of twenty years, I discovered no apparent change, either in the town or its inhabitants ; except that the latter, at least the lower order of persotf:* have acquired a habit of smoking incessantly, like the Germans ; while the former boasts a larger number of good inns than it pos- sessed under the government of Louis xvi. ; and has been ridl^ed of all its conventual institutions, and likewise of the host of mendi- cants by whom travellers were formerly annoyed. Understanding that the route through Beauvais to Paris was smoother, less hilly, and shorter by three posts, than that through 1 Travellers who go by way of Beauvais to Paris, lose seeing one of the handsomest churches in France, t! e Cathedral at Amiens; and frequently experience bad treatment at Amiens, I turned off at Abbeville, (where the roads divide, 1 ) and pursued my way to Granvilliers ; passing near a mound which com- mands the adjacent country, and is denominated Caesars Camp. The entrenchments are well pre- served ; and medals and other antiquities have been found on this spot. Granvilliers contains 3,000 inhabitants; the road from Calais thither is excellent; and, owing to its greatbreadth, perfect straightness, and thickly-planted borders of trees, possesses an ap- pearance of grandeur for the same reason common to most of the high-roads in France. The coun- try had hitherto presented nothing remarkable ; but, after quitting Granvilliers; where tbe proprietor of tho only tolerable inn the town cau boast (/V / old d'Angleterre), is neglectful and imposing. 2 PARIS. Granvilliers, I passed through fine sheets of corn, interspersed with convents transformed into manu- factories of various descriptions ; objects frequently seen now in the French territories, and, ge- nerally speaking, disadvantageous to a landscape ; but this disad- vantage is counterbalanced by the improved state of agriculture, the increase of towns and villages, and the air of comfort which pervades even the humblest peasants cot- tage. Beauvais, seated on the banks of the Therain, is celebrated on account of the siege it sustained in 1472; when Jeanne Hachette headed the women of the town, and defended it against an army of 80,000 men, commanded by the Duke of Burgundy, whom she compelled to abandon his enter- prise ; and, in memory of this he- roine, there is every year at Beau- vais, a procession in which the ladies take precedence. The Ca- thedral, though unfinished, merits notice : it contains the tomb of Cardinal Forbin, by Couslou ; fine painted glass ; and good spe- cimens of the tapestry for which Beauvais has long been famous. The Church of S. Etienne is likewise ornamented with fine painted glass. From Beauvais I proceeded through avenues of fruit-trees, and a country rich in corn and vineyards, to Beaumont, plea- santly situated on the left bank of the Oise ; and from Beaumont through avenues of fruit-trees, and well cultivated plains, to S. Denis, whose venerable Abbey has long been celebrated for con- taining the burial place of the monarchs of France. During the Revolution, however, this Abbey was stript of its treasures, its [ch. i. church was unroofed, its altars were levelled with the dust, and its royal Dead torn from the de- positories of departed greatness. But the Emperor Napoleon having- determined to restore the church to its pristine use and splendour, repaired and improved the royal vaults, securing them with gates of bronze, and at the same time re-establishing the subterranean chapels, in which he erected three expiatory altars ; one dedicated to the Flace of Clovis, another to that of Charlemagne, aud a third to the princes of the Capetian dy- nasty : he likewise ordered prayers to be offered daily at the expiatory altars : and no change has been made in his plans by the present government , except that the bronze gates, with which he secured the royal vault destined to receive himself and his family, have been removed for a door oi black mar- ble. The Church is repaired with elegant simplicity, and contains two old monuments near the great door, and two of less ancient date ; one being that of Louis xu., near which is a kneeling statue of the late Queen Marie Antoinette. — Good pictures adorn the Sacristy, and the conventual buildings of the Abbey, are converted into an establishment for the gratuitous education of the daughters of the m£jnbers of the Legion of Honour. Strangers who inquire for one of the Swiss Guards, (always in at- tendance at S . Denis ,) are conduct- ed by him into the royal Burial- place ; where Napoleon’s classic taste has supplied the tombs de- stroyed by republican frenzy ; thus making the three dynasties com- plete, twelve princes excepted. The remains of Louis xvi. his Queen, two Aunts of Louis xvi who died at Trieste, the Duke of PARIS. CH. I.] Berry, two of his Children, and Louis xviii. have been deposited in this royal mausoleum. Between S. Denis and Paris, (almost one continued street,) the splendid dome of the Hotel des Invalides , Mont Marlre, Belle- ville, and S. Chaumont, are the most .striking objects ; the second still exhibits marks of having made a desperate stand against the al- lied armies of Europe, when they united to dethrone Napoleon : and the two last were bravely defended on the 29th of March, 1814, by the pupils of the Ecole Poly tech- nique. Paris, anciently called Lutetia, is watered by the Seine, anciently Sequana ; and previous to the de- thronement of Louis xvi., was supposed to contain from seven to eight hundred thousand inhabit- ants ; but since that period, the number has considerably increas- ed. The improvements this city owes to Napoleon are innumer- able : and on entering the Place Fendome (adorned with a fine imitation of Antoninus’s column), on advancing to th eGarde-meuble , and the palace of the Tuileries, viewing that superb edifice, its princely gardens, and the magnifi- cent facades of the Louvre (deem- ed one of the most perfect speci- mens of modern architecture), then contemplating, from thePont Louis xvi., the Palais Bourbon , the front of the Tribunal du Corps Legislatif ‘ the Champs Ely sees, the stately dome of the Hotel des Invalides , the noble quays of the Seine, and the beautiful bridges thrown over that river (which traverses Paris from east to west), it is impossible not to think this metropolis the rival of ancient Rome ; especially when we recol- lect that the vast and splendid apartments of the Louvre, though recently despoiled of many trea- sures, still boast one of the largest and finest collections in the world of paintings and sculpture. At Paris, however, grandeur is more common than consistency ; for ere the eye be sated with gaz- ing on the above-described mag- nificent panorama, it discovers streets narrow, insignificant, and filthy ; disgraceful, in short, to any capital. Among the most prominent im- provements made during the im- perial reign, are the noble Gallery intended to unite the immense palaces of the Louvre and the Tui- leries ; the triumphal Arc de l’E- toile, (not finished) ; the Ex- change ; the Establishment for the Orphans of the Legion of Honour ; the Fountain of the Elephant, on the site of the Bastile, unfinished, but worthy of the colossal Mind by which it was projected ; the Storehouses for Grain, called Gre- niers de reserve ; the Slaughter- houses, called Abattoirs, magnifi- cent in size, and particularly be- neficial, as, previous to the reign of Napoleon, there was nothing of this description at Paris/; the Cu- pola of the Corn-market ; the ge- neral Magazine for wines ; the Poultry and Game TNlarket ; the great Market; the Market of S. Germain, of S. Martin, e,tc. etc. ; the Rue de la Paix ; the Pont du Jardin du Roi ; the Pont de la Cite ; the Pont des Arts ; the Pont des Invalides ; the new Quays ; the Fountain of the Es- planade du Boulevard de Bon- dy ; and the already mentioned Column in the Place Fendome. The triumphal Arch in the Place de Carrousel , also, ranks 4 par: among the embellishments of Pa- ris ; though devoid of that magni- tude and simplicity which distin- guish the Roman edifice it was meant to imitate. But what especially charms the eyes of strangers in the French capital, is a beautiful Belt, called the Boulevards , which encircles the town, and consists of drives and walks, bordered with forest- trees and gardens, and which, from the number of shops, and the profusion of flowers, w hereby it is adorned, has a peculiar air of gaiety during winter ; and pos- sesses, during summer, a salubri- ous coolness, rarely met with in a vast metropolis. The circumstance of all others, however, most con- ducive to the healthfulness of Pa- ris, is the purification of the water of the Seine ; which, though per- fectly wholesome now, was seldom drank with impunity in its natural state. Judging by appearances, I should think Paris as much im- proved in wealth as in magnifi- cence ; the shops being far more numerous, and far better slocked, 1 For the benefit of travellers restricted in point of time, I shall mark (as I have already mentioned) with one or more exclamation- points, according to the merit of the work in question, those productions of the chisel and the pencil which are generally deemed most worthy of notice in the public and private galleries of the Continent : and, for the use of travellers w ho may visit those galleries, I will here subjoin a short account of the origin ot the Art of Sculpture. Asia seems to have given birth to this art; but its progress appears to have been slow in all countries. During its infancy , in its native soil, the heathen divinities were represented by nothing more than square stones. Grecian sculpture began in a similar manner; alter which, Bacchus, and other pagan gods, were worshipped under the form of a column. Tne next improvement consisted in placing the representation of human heads upon these columns: Hermes was worshipped under this form ; whence comes Ihe word Henna. Tl e most ancient representations of the human figure, at full length, were of potters’ clay. ES. [CH. I. tban in time past ; the manufacto- ries greatly improved ; the hotels (which amount to upwards of three hundred) furnished with an elegance heretofore unknown; the coffee-houses displaying the most expensive embellishments ; the ta- bles of Restaurateurs abounding with luxuries ; and the opera-house exhibiting a splendour, with re- spect to stage-decorations, which no other theatre in Europe can boast. Having enumerated the most striking changes in this metropo- lis, I will now enter into a few particulars respecting the objects best worth notice. Musee Royal du Louvred This immense collection of sculp- ture and paintings is placed in the magnificent palace of the Louvre: several rooms on the ground floor, princely in size, and rich in mar- bles and mosaics, being appropri- ated to the efforts of the chisel ; and a suite of splendid apartments up stairs to those of the pencil. Among the sculpture are the choicest treasures of the Yilla Bor- ghese, and many other highly va« Dcdalus, however.and, after him, Domophon, worked in wood ; following artists worked in ivory ; and their successors made statues of bronze; but, during the infancy of bronze sculpture, the component parts of statues were fastened together with nails; this is exempli- fied by six female figures, found in Hercula- neum. After bronze, stone was used ; and last of all, maible; but, for a considerable period, tbe heads, hands, and feet only of statues were marble, the trunks being wood. This custom prevailed so late as the days of Phi- dias; and even when sculpture had retched its zenith of perfection, several of the finest statues of marble, instead of being cut, each of them, out of one block, were made in sepa- rate pieces, and subsequently joined together. This is exemplified in the celebrated Niobe and two of ber daughters ; in the Albani Pal- las ; and in the Faustina, found near Ostia, among ruins supposed to he the remains of Pliny’s Villa, called Laurentum. Very ancient statues were frequently painted, and some- times draped with real stuffs, like the Madon- nas of modern Italy. PARIS. CH. I.] lued works of art, which once em- bellished Rome. Vestibule. No. 1, colossal bust of a vanquished Province. 1 — 5, ditto of Domitian. 2 — 6, ditto of Alexander Severus. 3 — 7, statue of a Barbarian Prisoner. 4 — 9, colos- sal bust of Lucius Yerus.— -11, statue of a Barbarian Prisoner. 5 13, colossal bust of Jupiter Sera- pis.-— 18, Yase adorned with bac- chanalian emblems ! 6 Arcade leading to the Hall of the Emperors. No. 19, statue of Apollo, called Sauroctonon , or Lizard-killer ; supposed to be one of the finest imitations extant of a bronze statue of Apollo, by Praxi- teles! 7 — 22, statue of the Genius of eternal sleep. 8 Hall of the Roman Emperors . No. 26, statue of Marcus Aure- lius. 9 — 26, a BarbarianPrisoner. 10 • — 28, bust of Yespasian. — 31, statue of Nero. — 33, ditto of Tra- jan. 11 The basso-rilievo on the Pedestal of this statue represents a husband and wife dining, and reposing on their couch ; and is curious, because it exhibits an- cient Roman costume. — 34, bust of Claudius. — 41, basso-rilievo found at Rome, and representing a religious ceremony performed before the temple of Jupiter Capi- tolinus ; of which the three doors indicate the three naves conse- crated to the three associated di- vinities, Jupiter, Minerva, and Juno. 12 — 42, statue of Trajan. 13 Hall of the Seasons. No. 46, statue of Yenus Genitrix ! —47, 1 From the Villa Borghese. 2 From the Villa Alhani. 3 From the Braschi Palace, at Rome. 4 Vil. Borg. 6 Ibid. 5 Ibid. 7 Ibid. 8 This slatue does not express the idea it is intended to convey. 9 From Gabii. 13 Gabii. 10 Vil. Alb. 14 Vil. Borg. 11 Gabii. 15 Vil. Alb. 12 Vil. Borg. 16 Vil. Borg. bust of Commodus. — 50, statue of a wounded Combatant.' 4 — 55, an Egyptian divinity, in oriental ala- baster ! 1 5 — 59, bust of Yenus ! ' 6 — 65, statue of Euripides ! 17 — 73, ditto of a Nymph. — 74, statue of Bacchus.' 8 — 75, a Sarcophagus, representing the Yoyage of the Good to Elysium. — 76, basso-ri- lievo of Mithras (a Persian divi- nity), the Genius of the sun, ac- complishing the mysticsacrifice of the bull ! Mithras was worship- ped by the Romans, who erected altars to him ; and this basso- rilievo was found near the Forum Romanum. — 82, basso - rilievo taken from the Temple of Minerva at Athens ; it represents the Pa- nathenaea, and was composed by Phidias, and executed under his orders!' 9 Hall of Peace. No. 85, a Can- delabrum, taken from the Vatican Museum.*— 89, statue of Posido- nius! 20 — 92, ditto of Demosthe- nes! 2 ' — 95, ditto of Trajan ! 22 Hall of the Romans. No. 97, bust of Geta, very rare. 23 — 98, Inopus, a fragment found at De- los. 24 — 100, statue of Augustus. 23 101, bust of a Roman Warrior. 25 102, statue of Rome. — 111, ditto of Tiberius, found at Capri : dra- pery fine, head restored.- — 113, statue of Augustus! 27 — 115, bust of Faustina the Elder. 28 — 116, colossal bust of Rome ! 29 — 118. statue of Julia, the consort of Scp- timius Severus. — 120, group re- presenting Thetis, etc. and worth notice, on account of the ancient 17 Vil. Alb. 18 Vil. Borg. 19 The Panathenaoa were festivals in ho- nour of Minerva, the patroness of Athens 20 Vil. Borg. 21 From llie MuscoPio Clementine. 22 Vatican. 23 Gabii. 24 Inopus, a river of Delos, supposed, bj the inhabitants, to be a branch of the Nile. 25 Vatican. 2G Vil. Borg. 27 Mu. Pio Clementine. 28 Braschi Palace. 29 Vil. Borg. PARIS. 6 galley on which the goddess is placed. 1 — 123, bust of Lucilla. 2 —124, statue of Chastity. — 126,, bust of Antinous, found near Frascati ! —128, Metope, taken from the Parthenon, at Athens ! Hall of the Centaur. No. 1 30, statue of a Roman, name un- known. — 132, herma of Alexan- der the Great, found at Tivoli.—* 434, group of the Centaur ! ! ! This master-piece is supposed, by the Chevalier Visconti, to have been executed in the time of Adrian by Aristeas and Papias, natives of Aphrodisias, in Caria. 3 — 135, co- lossal head of Apollo. — 438, ditto of Marcus Aurelius. 4 — 140, ditto of Lucius Yerus. 5 — 141, statue of Germanicus. 6 — 142, ditto of Clau- dius. 7 — 144, ditto of Achilles. 8 —146, statues of Fauns. 9 — 149, bust of Lucius Yerus. 10 ' — 150, statue of Sextus Pompeius, found near Tusculum, and executed by Ophelion , a Greek artist! — 151, one of the largest and most beau- tiful Candelabra of antiquity, found in Magna Grsecia.^ Hall of Diana. No. 154, statue of Bacchus. — 162, ditto of Mi- nerva. — 164, bust of a Roman, name unknown. — 165, group of three Nymphs suspending their wet garments on a column! 11 — 467, statue of Thalia. 12 — 108, Basso-rilievo of Hercules steal- ing the tripod of Delphos. — 170, 13 bust of Rome. — 171, 14 statue ol Yenus. — 175, a Greek basso-ri- lievo. — 176, Basso-rilievo , re- presenting the Suovetaurilia, a sacrifice among the ancient Ro- mans, which consisted of the im- molation of a sow ( sus ), a lamb (ovis), and a bull ( taurus ), 1 Vil.Alb. 6 Gabii. 2 Gabii. 7 Ibid. 3 Vil. Borg. 8 Vil. Borg. ; 4 Ibid. 9 Ibid. 5 Ibid. 10 Ibid. [CH. I. whence the name. It was usually observed every fifth year. — 178, Diana a la Biche ! ! so called be- cause the goddess is represented at the moment when she has rescued the celebrated Hind with golden horns from Hercules, and reprimanded him for molesting an animal sacred to her. This beau- tiful work, found between Gen- zano and Aricia, amidst the ruins of a temple consecrated to Diana, is of Parian marble, and stands upon a pedestal ornamented with fine bassi-rilievi : that part which represents three cities, personified by three female figures wearing crenated diadems, is particularly admired!!! — 180, group called Yenus victorious! 15 The basso- rilievo, which serves as a pedes- tal to this group, is in the Etruscan style.— 182, basso-rilievo deno- minated the Conclamation ; a ce- remony which took place at the fu- nerals of the ancient Romans, and consisted in calling the Departed loudly and repeatedly by name ; and likewise endeavouring to rouse them by the noise of music, in or- der to ascertain whether they were really dead. — 185, group of Ye- nus and Cupid, supposed to be an imitation of the draped Yenus of Praxiteles ! — 192, statue of Mi- nerva ! This fine piece of sculp- ture is supposed, by Yisconti, to be a copy of the bronze Minerva of Phidias, surnamed The Beau- tiful. 16 — 196, bust of Marcus A- grippa. 17 — 197, statue oftheLy- cian Apollo! — 199, statue of Di- ana. — 201, bust of Demosthenes, supposed to be one of the best likenesses extant of that philoso- pher. 1 8 — 207 , Fountaininthe form • 11 Vil. Borg. 15 Vil. Borg. 12 Ibid. 16 Ibid. 13 Ibid. 17 Gabii. It Ibid. 18 Vil. Alb. PARIS. CH. I.J of a tripod, found among the ruins of Adrian’s Yilla. Hall of the Candelabrum. No. 208, a Candelabrum, which, if found in its present state, would have ranked among the largest and most beautiful ancient works of its kind ; but, though the ma- terials of which it is composed are antique, they were put into their present form by Piranesi. *—*210, bust of Yenus \ s — 212, basso-ri - lievo of Antiope reconciling her sons Zethus and Amphion . 1 2 — 21 3, statue of Diana. 3 — 214, an Altar consecrated to Diana-Lucifera, or the moon. 4 — 215, bust of Isis. — 216, statue of a Dog, found at Ga- bii ! — 218, statue of Pollux. 5 — 220, Tripod of the Delphic Apol- lo, found at Ostia! — 224, statue of a Wild Boar, being an antique copy of the celebrated boar at Florence. 6 — 229, Tripod found at Gabii. — 230, statue of Marsyas ! !! This is deemed one of the finest pieces of sculpture extant; and, like every other antique repre- sentation of Marsyas, is supposed to be imitated from a picture by Zeuxis, which Pliny mentions as having graced the temple of Con- cord at Rome. 7 — 232, basso-ri- lievo of Jupiter. 8 Hall of the Tiber. No. 233, statue of iEsculapius ! 9 — 234, statue of Antinous in the charac- ter of Hercules, found near Ti- voli. — 238, statue of Flora. 10 — 241, Chair consecrated to Bac- chus! 11 — 242, statue of Ceres. 12 — 244, statue of a Bacchante. 13 — 245, Chair consecrated to Ceres. 14 —246, statue called the Diana of Gabii. — 249, the Tiber, a colossal 1 Vil. Borg. 6 Vil. Borg. 2 Ibid. 7 Ibid. 3 Ibid. 8 Ibid. 4 Ibid. 9 Vil. Alb. 5 Ibid. 10 Vil. Borg. group found at Rome, on the site of the temple of Isis and Serapis, near the Yia-Lata ! ! ! 15 This fine group, together with that of the Nile (in the Yatican Museum), adorned two fountains which em- bellished the avenue of the tem- ple. The Tiber is represented in a recumbent posture, resting his right arm on an urn, near which reposes the wolf of Mars, with her nurslings, the founders of Rome : the oar in his left hand indicates that the river is navi- gable. * — 251, four statues, called Caryatides, which once adorned the Villa Albani. Arcade which leads to the Hall of the fighting Warrior. No. 258, statue of Antinous. — 259, basso- rilievo , representing the Birth of Bacchus. 16 — 260, statue of Mars. Hall of the fighting Warrior. No. 262, statue of a Warrior, called the Gladiator of the Yilla Borghese ! ! ! ! He is represented as combating with an enemy on horseback ; his left arm bears a shield, with which he is supposed to parry the strokes of his oppo- nent, whom, with the right hand, he is about to wound with all his force. The attitude of the statue is admirably calculated for this double action ; and every limb, every muscle, is said to wear more precisely the appearance of life, than does any other master- piece of the Grecian chisel. The author of this transcendent and inimitable work was Agasias of Ephesus, whose name is engraved on the trunk which supports the figure ; and whose design, accord- ing to Yisconti, was not to repre- 1 1 Mu. Pio Clementino. 12 Vil. Borg. 13 Ibid. 14 Mu. Pio Clementuio. 15 Ibid. 16 Vil. Alb. s PARIS. sent a gladiator, but a warrior. Winckelmann is of the same opi- nion ; and says, that the statue in question appears to have been executed before the period when gladiatorial shows were first exhi- bited in Greece. During the com- mencement of the seventeenth century, this chef-d’ceuvre was discovered at Antium, where the Roman Emperors had a Villa ; and where the Apollo of Belve- dere was found about a century before. 1 — 263, statue of Mer- cury. 2 — 267, bust of Clodius Al- binus. 3 — 269, bust of Marcus Au- relius. 4 — 270, a Sarcophagus re- presenting the death of Meleager! 5 — 272, group of two Romans in the costume of Mars and Venus. 6 » — 276, statue of Adrian! 7 — 279, ditto of Cupid, in the character of Hercules. 8 — 281, statue of a wounded Amazon ! The upper part of this figure is said to be an antique imitation of the wounded Amazon of Ctesilas ; but the sculp- tor, by whom it was restored in the sixteenth century, has deviat- ed from the costume appropriate to female warriors. — 282, statue of the Venus of Arles, so called, because found at Arles, in Pro- vence; and, supposed to be Ve- nus victorious, the device of Cae- sar. ■ — 284, statue of an Infant Mercury. 9 — 287, statue of Lucius Caesar! 10 — 290, group of a Faun and a Satyr : the pedestal is sup- posed to have been an ornament with which the tops of ancient wells were sometimes embellish- ed. 11 — 297, statue of Mercury : the subject of the basso- rilievo on the Pedestal is taken from the [ch. i. Odyssey, and represents Ulysses in the Shades below. Hall of Pallas. No 299, sta- tue of a Female petitioning the gods. 12 — The sculptor who re- stored the hands of this statue has converted it into an Euterpe. . — 301, statue of Ceres. 13 — 302, ditto of the Genius of Bacchus !‘ 4 — 304, bust of Trajan. 15 — 306, statue of Polymnia, upper part modern, drapery antique, and vc-’y fine. 16 — The Muse of Me- mory, and the Inventress of Har- mony, seems stationed to watch over a Sarcophagus, numbered 307, and called that of Homer; because the father of heroic poe- try is here represented as convers- ing with Calliope, and indicating, by the two fingers he holds up, that he composed only two epic poems. Figures of all the other Muses adorn this Sarcophagus ; which was discovered, at the commencement of the last cen- tury, near Rome, on the road to Ostia. — 310, a colossal statue, called The Pallas of Velletri, be- cause it was found near that town, in 1797 ! ! ! The goddess is repre- sented as possessing the dignified beauty which accords with wis- dom ; and, though armed with her helmet, aegis, and lance, she seems, from the mildness of her countenance, to indicate that the arts of peace are not less dear to her than the glory of war. This statue is of the finest Greek work- manship ; and the pedestal on which it rests merits observation. —314, statue of a female Musi- cian, supposed, by the costume, to have been executed jn the time 1 Vil. Borg. 2 Ibid. 3 Vil. Alb. 4 Vil. Borg. 5 Ibid. C Vil. Borg. 7 Gabii. 8 Ibid. 9 Vil. Borg. 10 Gabii. 1 1 The receptacles for the ashes of victims in heathen temples seem to have been usually thus adorned. 12 Vil. Borg. 15 Vil. Alh. 13 Ibid. 16 ViI.Borg. 14 Ibid. PARIS. 9 CH. I.] of Trajan or Adrian ! J — 315, Sar- cophagus, called that of Acteon. 2 — 317, bust of Adrian. 3 — 318, statue of Nemesis. 4 — 319, ditto of an Infant Hercules. 5 — 321, statue supposed to represent Hope. The basso-rilievo , which adorns the pedestal, displays the formation of man by Prometheus, and Mi- nerva giving him life, under the emblem of a butterfly. — 328, the cinerary urn of Clodius; Egyptian workmanship, as appears from the hieroglyphics. 6 — 331, a trian- gular Altar, representing three of the signs in the zodiac, namely, Virgo, the Scorpion, and Sagit- tarius, with the three divinities, Geres, Mars, and Jupiter. 7 — 332, a Grecian Vase, executed by an Athenian artist, called Sosibius. 8 — 339, a sepulchral urn, which contained the ashes of Fundanius Velinus. 9 — 340, group represent- ing a Peasant cutting up a Deer. 10 — 341, statue of Euterpe. 11 — 343, Basin or Bath of Porphyry. Baths were sometimes used as sepul- chres, when properly shaped for the purpose. 12 Hall of Melpomene . The floor of this apartment is ornamented with Mosaics, chiefly executed at Pa ris by Belloni, and represent- ing Minerva in her car, followed by Peace and Abundance ; with river Gods, etc., forming a border to the picture. No. 344, bust of I s * s -— 345, statue of a Female pe- titioning the gods, and supposed to be the portrait of a Roman Em- press. 13 — 347, bust of the Nile.< — 348, colossal statue of Melpomene, supposed originally to have adorn- ed Pompey’s theatre, and found on its site ! ! ! 1 4 - — 351 , bust of J u- piler-Serapis ! — 353, altar conse- crated to Diana. — 354, statue of a Neg ro Slave. 15 Hall of Isis. Four columns of Spanish marble are placed in the four corners of this apartment, and serve as pedestals to four Egyptian Statues ; the most re- markable of which is an Isis, with a lion’s head, in black basalt.— No. 359, statue of Isis, found in Adrian’s Villa.— 361, statue of an Egyptian Priest. — 363, ditto, in green basalt. 16 — 367, statue of an Egyptian Priestess kneeling, with the throne of the gods in her hand ; found near the Via Flam ini a, about ten leagues from Rome. — 378, large Altar of twelve gods, supposed to be a production of the iEgina school! — 380, statue of Venus, supposed to be an an- tique imitation of the Venus of the Capitol. 17 Hall of Psyche. No. 381, Al- tar of twelve gods, found at Ga- bii ! ! This valuable piece of sculp- ture is adorned with busts of the twelve principal divinities of the Greeks and Romans, namely Ju- piter, Minerva, Apollo, Juno, Neptune, Vulcan, Mercury, Vesta, Ceres, Diana, Mars, and Venus ; the two last of whom Love is unit- ing: it is likewise adorned with the twelve signs of the zodiac, and with symbols of the divinity sup- posed to preside over the month which each sign indicates. — 383, statue of a dancing Faun. 18 — 387 , statue of Psyche! 19 — 398, statue of Minerva, supposed to be a pro- duction of the TEgiua school. — 399, statue of Cupid trying Ms 1 Vil. Borg. 2 Ibid. S'JGabii. 4 Ibid. 5 Vil. Borg. G Ibid. 7 Gabii. 8 Vil. Borg. 9 Vatican. 10 Vil. Alb. 11 Vil. Borg. 12 Ibid. 13 Vil. Borg. 14 Mu. Pio Clenjentino. 15 Vil. Borg. 18 Vil Bon:. 16 Ibid. 19 Ibid. 17 Ibid. 40 PARIS. bow ; probably an antique copy of the bronze Cupid of Lysippus. 1 —403, statue of a dancing Faun. Hall of the Augur. No. 417, statue of Cupid. 2 — 418, basso- rilievo , representing the funeral of Hector. 3 — 439, basso-rilievo , representing one of the Roman Augurs consulting the entrails of an ox, and unique with respect to its subject. 4 — 442, statue of Corn- modus, found at Gabii. Hall of Hercules and Tele- phus. No. 450, a colossal group of Hercules and Telephus. 5 — 458, statue of Minerva. 6 — 461, recum- bent statue of an Hermaphrodite : this seems to be an antique imita- tion of the celebrated Hermaphro- dite in the Hall of the Caryatides. The mattress is antique. 7 — 462, statue of Diana, formerly called the Zingarella. 8 — 465, statue of Julius Caesar, found at Gabii. — 466, statue of Pertinax. Hall of Medea. No. 470, group .of the Graces ; the heads are mo- dern. 9 — 478, basso-rilievo repre- senting the vengeance of Medea. 10 — 488, group of Mercury and Vul- can. 11 — 491, a sleeping Nymph. 12 496, group of Cupid and Psyche. 13 —498, statue of a Muse. 14 Corridor of Pan. No. 501, sta- tue of a priestess of Isis, found at Athens. — 504, statue of a young Faun. 15 — 506, statue of Pan. 16 — 514, bust of an Egyptian Priest. — 517, hernia of the Indian Bac- chus, found at Rome. — 522, sta- tue of Urania. Hall of the Caryatides , so called, because one end of this immense apartment exhibits four [ch. i. Caryatides, the work of Jean Gou- jon. No. 523, a triangular Altar, adorned with bassi-rilievi , repre- senting three Lacedaemonian Vir- gins. 17 — 526, henna of Socrates. — 527, the celebrated Hermaph- rodite of the Villa Borghese, sup- posed to be the finest imitation extant of the bronze Hermaphro- dite of Polycletus ! ! ! This statue was discovered, at the commence- ment of the seventeenth century, near Dioclesian’s Baths. The mat- tress on which the figure rests was done by Bernini, who, likewise, restored the left foot. — 528, hernia of Homer, from the Museum of the Capitol. — 530, herma of Dio- genes. — 533, statue of a Lion, in green basalt! 18 — 559, statue of Hercules ; upper part fine. 19 — < 560, herma called Hercules; but supposed, by Winckelmann, to re- present Xenophon. — 592, hernia of Thucydides.' — 593, statue of Sabina, the consort of Adrian! 20 • — 595, statue of an African Fish- erman, heretofore denominated the death of Seneca! 21 — 596, a column of red porphyry, sur- mounted by a fragment of a statue of Minerva, apparently of the yEgina school. — 597, Choiseul Marble, discovered at Athens, in the year 1788. —622, statue of Livia. — 623, herma of Zeno. 22 — 655, herma of Pittacus.*— 657, ditto of Epicurus. 23 — 681, statue of Venus rising from the bath. 24 — 682, bust of Tiberius, found at Gabii. — 684, statue of Alexander the Great! 25 — The Basso-rilievo fixed in the wall, above this sta- tue, represents Achilles arming 1 Vil. Borg. 8 Vil. Borg. 2 Ibid. 9 Ibid. 3 Ibid. 10 Ibid. 4 Ibid. 11 Ibid. 5 Ibid. 12 Ibid. 6 Ibid. 13 Ibid. 7 Ibid. 14 Ibid. 15 Vil. Borg. 21 Vil. Bore. 16 Ibid. 22 Ibid. 17 Ibid. 23 Ibid. 18 Albani collection. 24 Vatican. 19 Vil. Borg. 25 Vil. Alb. 20 Gabii, PARIS. 41 cii. i.] himself for battle ; and was taken from the Villa Borghese. — 694, group of a Child strangling a goose, supposed to be an antique copy of a work in bronze, which Pliny mentions as having been executed by Boethus, a Car- thaginian sculptor ! This group was found near Rome, on the spot now called Roma Vecchia, the ancient Pagus Lemonius . — • 698, statue of Venus rising from the bath; supposed to be an an- tique copy of a celebrated Venus, by Polycharmus, which adorned Rome in the days of Pliny !— 699, bust of Marcus Aurelius. 1 — 703, torso of Jupiter, supposed to be an antique imitation, in marble, of the famous Jupiter- Olympius of Phidias !- — 704, sta- tue of a Discobolus, found in the Via Appia . — 705, 706, and 708, Vases found at Marathon. — 709, group of Silenus with the infant Bacchus ! ! ! ! This master-piece of art was discovered, during the sixteenth century, in the gardens of Sallust. — 710, statue of Jason, improperly called Cincinnatus ! ! This chef-d’ oeuvre was found at the Villa Negroni, and is thought to be in the style of Agasias the Ephesian. —71 1, Vase of the Villa Borghese ! ! The bassi-rilievi on this beautiful Vase, which was found in the gardens of Sallust, represent a Bacchanalian cere- mony. — 712, statue of a Roman, in the character of Mercury, and improperly called Germanicus ! ! This chef d’ oeuvre , which appears to be the work of the younger Cleomenes, does not, in point of features, resemble any of the sta- tues, nor any of the medals, of Germanicus : it was found in the Villa Negroni. 1 Gabii. 2 Engravings of a considerable number of the pictures in this Museum have been taken ; The staircase, leading to the apartments which contain the paintings, was built according to the design of Fontaine ; and con- sists of four distinct flights of s.teps ; two leading to the Gallery of Apollo, and two to the Exhi- bition-rooms of living Artists, which are interesting, because they contain a greater number of historical pictures than do our Exhibitions at Somerset-House. Beyond these rooms is the Gal- lery, called Italian; in size one of the most magnificent apartments existing ; and adorned with .co- lumns, mirrors, candelabra, al- tars, busts, ancient and modern vases, all of the most costly de- scription ; besides upwards of ele- ven hundred and fifty pictures, which clothe its walls. This Gal- lery is divided into nine parts ; the three first containing the works of the French School; the three next being appropriated to the works of the German, Flemish, and Dutch Schools ; and the three last to the Italian Schools. 2 French School. No. 13, the Descent from the Gross, by Bour- don. — 22, the Nativity, by Le Brun. — 25, the blessed Virgin preparing a meal for the Infant Jesus. — 26, Jesus served in the Desert by Angels. — 27, the Mag- dalene renouncing the vanities of life, supposed to represent Ma- dame de la Valliere! — 31, the Dream of Anne of Austria. — 33, Pentecost. — 34, the Lapidation of S. Stephen ! — and, 37, the tent of Darius! all by Le Brun. — 49, a Painter’s Studio, by Cochereau. — 57, the Last Judgment by Cousin! — 63, Joas acknowledged king of Israel, by Antoine Goypel. — 69, a Kitchen, by Drolling, a self-taught and proof impressions are sold, for the benefit of the establishment, at the Calcographic du Musee Royal. 42 PARIS. [CH. I < Painter. — 80, David anointed king over Israel, by Claude Lorrain ! — 81, the Disembarkation of Cleo- patra, to present herself before Antony! — 82, 83, 84, and 85, all by Claude. — 107, the Descent from the Cross, by Jouvenet. — 123, La Vierge a la Grappe , by Mignard! — 126, S. Cecilia, by ditto. — 139, portrait of Nicholas Poussin, by himself. — 140, the Deluge, a particularly fine and poetical picture. — 142, the Pre- servation of the Infant Moses. — 149, the Judgment of Solomon ! . — 151, Our Saviour, the blessed Virgin, S. John, Elizabeth, and Joseph ! — 154, the Blind Men of Jericho ! — 157, the Death of Sa- phira ! — 159, the Assumption of the Virgin. — 161 , S. Francois Xa- vier, recalled to life! — 166, the Death of Eurydice. — 167, Shep- herds of Arcadia. — 168, Time rescuing Truth from Envy and Calumny, and bearing her to the regions of eternity ! — — 171, Dio- genes throwing away his tankard ! all by Nicolas Poussin. — 199, S. Paul preaching^ Ephesus, by Le Sueur.' — 202, Simon, the Cyre- nian, coming to the aid of Our Saviour, who is represented as sinking under the weight of his cross, while S. Veronica offers him a handkerchief, which receives the impression of his countenance ! — and 203, the Descent from the Cross; both by Le Sueur. — 257, Antibes, by Vernet. — 258, 259, 260, Toulon.' — 261, Bandol. — 262 and 263, Marseille. 264, Cette.— 265 and 266, Bayonne. — 267 and 268, Bordeaux. — 269, La Rochelle. — 270, Rochefort, — 271, Dieppe.— 275, a Sea-port at sunrise !— 273, a Sea- port at Sun- set! — 281, a Moonlight-scene — 282, a Sea-view by moonlight ! — 283, a Tempest; and, 285, a Tempest ; all by Vernet. Flemish , German , and Dutch Schools. No. 341, View at sun- set, in Italy, by Both ! — 353, the Garden of Eden, by Breughel. — 359, a Landscape, the figures in which are by Annibale Caracci, the other part by Paul Brill. — 372, Les Religieuses, by Philippe de Champaigne. — 373, the Repast at the house of Simon the Phari- see. — 374, the Last Supper — and, 379, a large Landscape, likewise by Philippe de Champaigne. — 389, a Landscape, with Cattle, by Cuyp ! — 390, a Gentleman mounting his horse ; and, 391, the same Gentleman returning from his ride; likewise by Cuyp. — 404, the Dropsical Woman, by Gerard Dow ! ! (this picture is deemed his chef-d’oeuvre.) — 409, a Philosopher, by the same Artist! — 410, the Interior of a Guard-house, by Jean le Due. — 413, Charles i. of England, by Anthony Vandyck. — 415, Isa- bella, daughter to Philip ir. of Spain. — 425, Sketch of Our Sa- viour dead in the arms of the blessed Virgin, and Angels weep- ing! — 326, the Infant Jesus re- ceiving homage from a Saint and a Ring ! and 328, ( Ex Voto ), the Infant Jesus receiving homage ; all by Anthony Van- dyck. — 432, Hagar banished to the Desert, by Philip Vandyck. — 444, an Angel announcing the Birth of the Messiah to the Shep- herds, by Flinck. — 451, a Land- scape, by Glauber! — 470, a Por- trait of Sir Thomas More, by John Holbein.* — 471, a Portrait of Erasmus. — 472, ditto of an Archbishop of Canterbury. — 473, ditto of Nicholas Kratzer, Astro- nomer to Henry viii. of England; and, 478, the Descent from the Cross, with two other paintings in the same frame, all by John Holbein. — 484, the Interior of PARIS. 13 CH. I.] a Dutch dwelling, by Peter de Hooch!— 487, and all the inter- mediate numbers to 496, by Yan Huy sum.— -498, the Crucifixion, by Jardin ! — 522, the Descent from the Cross, by Lucas de Ley- den.- — 526, a Jeweller weighing gold, and his Wife examining a book illuminated with miniatures, by Quintin Matsys.— 577, Inte- rior of the Cathedral at Anvers, by Peter Neff! — 578, 579, 580, and 581, by the same Master.— 582, a Landscape, by Aart Yan- derneer : the cows in this land- scape are attributed to Cuyp.— 588, S. Carlo Borromeo adminis- tering the sacrament to persons infected with the plague at Milan, by Yan Oosl the Elder. — 590, the Family of Adrian Yan Ostade, by himself. — 597 , Travellers stopping at an Inn, by Isaac Yan Ostade. —604, an Angel announcing the Birth of the Messiah to the Shep- herds, by Poelenburg. — 609, Por- trait of Guillaume du Yair, by Probus the Younger. —615, two Horses fastened to a Trough at an Inn-door, and a man bringing them water, by Paul Potter! — 616, Cattle, by ditto!— 617, a Landscape, with Cattle, by Py- naker.— 620, 621, 622, and 623, j Portraits of Rembrandt, by him- self. — 626, Head of a man with a fur cap. — 627, Head of an old person with a long beard. — 628, Tobit and his Family prostrate before the Angel of God ! — 629, the good Samaritan. — 630, Our Saviour at Emmaus. — 632, S. Matthew writing, and an Angel dictating to him. — 633, Yenus and Cupid! — 634, a Philosopher in meditation ; and, 635, the In- terior of a Tradesman’s dwelling ; j all by Rembrandt. -637, a Wolf j devouring a Sheep, by Rosa di Ti- voli ; the landscape in this picture was painted by Tempesta. — 640, Lot and his Daughters leaving Sodom, by Rubens. — 641, Elias succoured by an Angel in the De- sert. — 642, the Adoration of the Magi. — 643, the Flight into E- gypt ; — and, 644, the blessed Yir- gin and our Saviour surrounded with groups of Children ; all by Rubens ; as are twenty-four pic- tures, taken from the Luxembourg Palace, and representing the life of Mary of Medicis.. The first number is 650, and the most striking of these fine pictures are numbered 661, 664, 670, and ^ 671— the Portrait of Richardot, numbered 674 — and the repre- sentation of a Yillage Fete, num- bered 678 ! are likewise by Ru- bens. — 683, a Landscape, by Ruysdael, with Figures and Cat- tle, by Berghem ! — 684, another Landscape, by Ruysdael, with Fi- gures by Wouvermans ! — 685, a Tempest, by Ruysdael ! — 687, Our Saviour at Emmaus, by Sant- woort! — 688, the Holy Family, by Schalken ! • — -701, Animals en- tering the Ark, by Sneyders.— 705, a Kitchen, by ditto. — 711, the Inside of a Church, by Steen- wick! — 724, the Temptation of S. Anthony, by David Teniers. — - 734, Head of an old Man, by ditto. - — -762, a Hare and other Game, by Weenix the Younger. — 763, a Peacock, Game, and a Dog, by ditto ! — 765, Pharaoh’s Daughter finding Moses, by Adrian Yander- WerfT— 767, an Angel announc- ing to the Shepherds the Birth of the Messiah! — 768, the Magda- lene in the Desert! — and, 770, Nymphs dancing ! all by Vander- Werf. — 778, an Attack of Polish Cavalry, by Philip Wouvermans. Schools of Italy. No. 815. the Infant Jesus embracing S. John, by Albano. — 818, Yenus impa- 44 PARIS. :h. i. tient to try the effect of her beauty on the heart of Adonis. — 819. Vulcan reposing at the feet of Venus, while the Loves forge arms for the latter.— 820, the Loves, while sleeping after their labours, disarmed by Diana’s Nymphs. — 821, the Loves, after having recovered their losses, and become triumphant, con- ducting Adonis to the feet of Ve- nus ; all by Albano. — 838, the blessed Virgin and our Saviour listening to S. John, who is pre- sented to them by Elizabeth — and 839, Charity ; both by An- drea del Sarto — 857, the blessed Virgin, by the Cav. Batoni. — 868, the resurrection of Lazarus, by Bonifazio. — 880, 881, and 882, views of Venice, by Canaletto. — 868, the blessed Virgin dead, and the Apostles weeping, by M. A. Caravaggio. — 888, a young Wo- man telling a Youth his fortune, by ditto. — 895, the Nativity, by Annibale Caracci.— 898, the bles- sed Virgin recommending silence to S. John, that he may not dis- turb the repose of our Saviour ! — 902, our Saviour ascending to Heaven, after his resurrection. — 906, the Martyrdom of S. Ste- phen ; — and 907, the same sub- ject, all by Annibale Caracci.— 919, the Infant Jesus and his Mo- ther, by Lodovico Caracci. — 926, S. Cecilia, by Cavedone. — 932, Jesus presenting the ring for his mystic marriage, to S. Catherine of Alexandria, by Antonio Alle- gri, da Correggio ! — 934, Antiope asleep, LoVe sleeping by her side on a lion’s skin, and Jupiter standing near, transformed into a Satyr, by ditto ! 1—940. David 1 It is said that Monsignor Giovanni della Casa, a Florentine prelate, employed Daniello da Volterra to model a group in plaster of David vanquishing Goliath; and then desired him to represent in painting the two sides cf vanquishing Goliath ; a double picture on the same subject, by Daniello da Volterra. 1 — 941, Je- sus consecrating the bread, by Agnese Dolci. — 945, a Landscape representing the flight into Egypt, and attributed by some persons to Domenichino, and by others to Ann. Caracci. — 948, S. Cecilia, by Domenichino ! — 956, a Con- cert ; attributed to Leonello Spa- da. — 975, the Adoration of the Shepherds, by Spagnoletto. — 981 , Melancholy, by Domenico Feti ! — 986, and 987, portraits of Ben- venuto Garofolo, by himself.- — 990, a mystic subject, likewise by Garofolo. — 991, a Landscape, by Gasparo Dughet, called Gasparo Poussin. — 997, the Messiah ac- cepting the instruments of the Passion, by Luca Giordano ! — 1004, a portrait of Guercino, by himself. — 1008, the blessed Vir- gin and S. Peter,, deploring the death of the Messiah ; — and 1016, Circe, both by Guercino. — 1021, the Salutation, by Guido. — 1022, the Infant Jesus sleeping on his Mother’s knees. — 1025, Jesus and the Samaritan. — 1026, Jesus giv- ing the keys of Heaven to S. Pe- ter. — 1027, Jesus crowned with thorns. — 1030, Jesus in the Gar- den of Olives. — 1031, the Mag- dalene. — 1032, the same subject ; — and 1036, an Allegory repre- senting the union of Design and Colour — all by Guido. — 1044, portrait of Giulio Romano, by himself. — 1045, the Adoration of the Shepherds, by Giulio Ro- mano. — 1057, portrait of Monna Lisa, a celebrated Florentine Beauty, by Leonardo da Vinci. 2 —1058, S. John Baptist ! — 1059, the model ; which seems to have been done in this double pic lure. 2 Francis I, of France gave for this pic- ture 4,000 gold crowns ; a sum exceeding 45,000 francs. PARIS. CH. I.] 15 S. Anne, the blessed Virgin, and Infant Jesus ! — 1060, the Infant Jesus blessing S. John— all by Leonardo da Vinci. — 1062, Je- sus receiving a cross of rushes from S. John, School of Leonar- do da Vinci. 1 — 1065, the Holy Family, by Bernardino Lovini, more commonly called Luini.— 1066, the Messiah sleeping, by ditto.— 1076, the blessed Virgin showing the Messiah to the Angels and Shepherds, by Carlo Marat- ta.— 1079, the marriage of S. Catherine, by ditto. — 1090, the Infant Jesus on his Mother’s lap, playing with a chaplet, by Mu- rillo ! ! — 1091, God the Father, and the Holy Ghost, contemplat- ing the Messiah while he receives a cross of rushes from S. John ! — * 1092, the Messiah on the Mount of Olives, presented by an Angel with the Chalice and the. Cross. — 1093, S. Peter imploring par- don of the Messiah and 1095, a young Beggar seated ! ! — all by Murillo. — 1102, the blessed Vir- gin and Joseph presenting the In- fant Messiah to be adored by a Sh ep h erd , Pa lm a Vec ch io . — 1 1 1 9 , the Messiah sinking under the weight of his Cross, by Paolo Veronese. — 1136, the blessed Virgin, with the Infant Jesus and S. Martina, by Pietro da Cortona. — 1138, Faustulus, the Shepherd of Amulius, presenting Romulus and Remus to his wife Laurentia, by ditto. — 1149, portraits of Raf- faello Sanzio d’Urbino, the foun- der of the Roman School, and his Master Pietro Peruzino, by Ra- phael. 2 — 1151, portrait of Count Balthasar Castiglione. — 1154, the Archangel Michael vanquishing Satan. — 1157, the Holy Family, called La belle Jardiniere ! — and 1158, the same subject, painted for Francis I. of France ! ! — all by Raphael, who finished the last mentioned work only two years before his death. — 1159, the In- fant Jesus reposing; — and 1160, the Infant Jesus caressing S. John ; both by Raphael. — 1175, a Sportsman shooting a bird, and Soldiers reposing on a rock, by Salvator Rosa. — 1178, the Infant Jesus sleeping on his Mother’s knees, with Cherubim in the an- gles of the picture, by Sasso Fer- rato 1 — 1179, the Apotheosis of the blessed Virgin, by ditto. — 1181, head of S. John Baptist, by Schiavone. — 4.182, the Holy Family, by Schidone.— 1186, the blessed Virgin visiting Elizabeth, by Sebastiano delPiombo. — 1192, the Prodigal Son imploring his Father’s pardon, by Leonello Spada. — 1198, portrait of Tinto- retto, painted by himself. — 1205, portraits supposed to be those of Titian and his Mistress, painted by himself. 3 ' — 1207, portrait of Cardinal Hippolito of Medicis. — 1209, portrait of Alphonso d’ Ava- los. — 1210, portrait of a man dressed in black. — 1214, another Portrait. — 1215, the Soldiery in- sulting the Messiah at the door of his prison ! ! — 1217, the Messiah carried to the tomb ! — 1218, the Pilgrims of Emma us. 4 — 1219, the blessed Virgin, the Infant Jesus. S. Stephen (the first Dalmatian martyr), S. Ambroise, and S. 1 Leonardo da Vinci founded the Milan School. 2 According to some opinions this picture represents Raphael and Pontormo, and was painted by the latter. 3 Titian (Vccellio Ti/.iano) was one of the founders of Ihe Lombard School. 4 According to tradition, the pilgrim on the right of our Saviour represents the em- peror Charles V.-, the pilgrim on the lett. Cardinal Ximeues; and the page, Phibp IL of Spain. 16 PARIS. [oh. t. Maurice ! — 1220, two Angels wor- shipping the Messiah. — 1221, the blessed Virgin holding a rabbit, for which the Infant Jesus seems to ask;— and 1222, S. Agnes pre- senting her palm of martyrdom ! — all by Titian. — 1233, the mar- tyrdom of S. Irene, by Fran- cesco Vanni 1—1235, portrait of the Infanta Marguerita Theresa, daughter of Philip iv. of Spain, and of his consort, Maria-Anne of Austria, by Velasquez. Several pictures belonging to this magnificent collection have suffered considerably , from being ill-restored and over-varnished ; and several statues, belonging to the Museum of Sculpture, are, in appearance, still more hurt, by Laving been partially cleaned. Admission may usually be ob- tained gratis, to the Musee Roy- al, every morning, Mondays ex- cepted, from ten o’clock till four, by Foreigners ; provided they show their passports. Admission is given to the public in general every Saturday and Sunday, from two o’clock till four. Musee du Luxembourg. These Galleries, formerly adorned with the works of Rubens and Le Sueur (now removed to the Lou- vre), are at present destined to receive the works of living Artists: and, in addition to the most ad- mired pictures of the three last Exhibitions, here are other cele- brated works of the modern French School. Ecole Roy ale des Beaux Arts , Rue des Petits Augustins , ci- devant Musee des Monumens Francais. Monsieur Lenoir, to whom Paris was indebted for the last-named Museum, arranged, in chronological order, allthesepul- 1 The portfolio of Gaignieres, containing a collection of the costume of the French chral monuments he was able to rescue from the sacrilegious grasp of the infatuated leaders of the French revolution : thus exhibit- ing a series of memorials of the most distinguished characters to whom France has given birth, from the days of Clovis, to the present era : and, at the same time, forming a history of the com- mencement and progress of sculp- ture, and the art of painting upon glass, among his countrymen. But since the re-establishment of the monarchy, the tombs contained in this repository have been re- placed in the churches whence they were taken ; and the remain- ing part of this interesting Mu- seum enriches the Musee Royal. Bibliotheque du Roi, Rue de Richelieu. This Library (per- haps the finest existing), contains nearly eight hundred thousand printed volumes, eighty thousand volumes of manuscripts, five thou- sand five hundred volumes of prints, and a Cabinet of Anti- quities, enriched with Isiac Ta- bles, Pagan Deities, and the most rare and valuable collection of Medals in the world. The Gal- lery appropriated to the Manu- scripts is adorned with paintings, T^y Romanelli ; and the A partment next to the Cabinet des Estampes contains a portrait of King John, considered as the most precious relic of French painting in the fourteenth century. 1 This Li- brary is open to the public every day, from ten till two, festivals and vacation-times excepted. Bibliotheque Mazarine, Palais des Beaux-Arts , Quai Conti . — This Library, which originally contained about sixty thousand volumes, has lately been enriched nation, from the days of Clovis to the present period, may he found among the prints. PARIS. 17 CH. I.] with the Library of the Institute ; and possesses a fine terrestrial Globe of copper, executed by the brothers Bergwin, under the di- rection of Louis xvi. for the Dau- phin. Bibliotheque de S. Genevieve, Place S. Genevieve, Batimens du College Henry IV. This Li- brary contains an hundred and twelve thousand volumes ; and is adorned with Busts of distin- guished characters ; among whom are Jules Hardouin, Mansard, the Chancellor Letellier, by Coyse- vox, and Doctor Arnauld, by Gi- rardon. Here likewise may be found a plan of Rome in rilievo, executed by Grim ini, in 1776. This Library is open to the pub- lic every day from ten. in the morning till two, festivals and va- cation-times excepted. Bibliotheque del Arsenal, Rue de Sully , a l extremite du Quai des Celestins. This Library, sup- posed to contain an hundred and fifty thousand printed volumes, and five thousand manuscripts, is particularly rich in history and Italian poetry ; and open to the public every day, Sundays and va- cation-times excepted, from ten in the morning till two in the after- noon. Bibliotheque de la Ville , Place du Sanhedrin , derriere l’ Hotel de Ville. This Library is open to the public from twelve in the morning till four in the afternoon. Bibliotheque du Musee d' Ais- toire Nature lie. Rue du Jardin du Roi. This Library is parti- cularly well stored with books re- lative to natural history, and likewise with herbals, and draw- ings representing plants. Stran- gers are admitted on Mondays I The Library of I’Ecole Poly technique, that of I’Ecole des Mines, aud that of la Wednesdays, and Saturdays, upon producing their passports. Bibliotheque de la Faculle de Medecine , Rue de l E cole de Medecine. This Library, rich in works on the art of healing, is open to the public daily, from ten in the morning till two. 1 Musee dHistoire Nature lie, et Jardin du Roi , Quai S. Bernard, et Rue du Jardin du Roi. The Botanic Garden, be- longing to this Museum, contains a large collection of plants from various countries ; together with buildings which serve as dens for wild beasts; and a menagerie, so constructed that tame animals, not natives of France, and birds of all kinds and countries are pro- vided with habitations analogous to their modes of life : and in the midst of this appropriate spot, the French naturalists have erected a modest monument to Linnaeus. The Amphitheatre of Anatom}' stands in this garden ; as does the Museum of Natural History ; on the first floor of which is the finest collection of fishes in Eu- rope ; together with lizards, ser- pents, shells, minerals, fossils, etc. : and on the second floor the most magnificent assemblage im- aginable of Birds and Quadru- peds, preserved to admiration. The Botanic Garden is always open to the public, gratis; the Museum of Natural History on Tuesdays and Fridays only, from three o’clock in the afternoon till six in summer, and till dusk in winter ; and the Menagerie every day, from eleven o'clock till six during the summer ; and from eleven till three in winter. Ar- tists, and students belonging to the Museum, and foreigners are Cour de Cassation, are accessible to foreign- ers who apply for leave to visit them. c 2 PARIS. 48 admitted on other days upon ob- taining permission. The fine bridge of Austerlitz, now called Pont du Jardin du Roi, is a great ornament to the Botanic Garden. Academie Roy ale de Musique , ou V Opera, Rue Lepelletier. This Theatre, which is spacious and sonorous, presents the most brilliant spectacle in Europe, with respect to scenes, machinery, dresses, accuracy relative to cos- tume, and excellence relative to the composition and execution of the ballets represented. It is open on Sundays, Wednesdays, and Fridays. Italian Opera , Place Fa oar t. Open on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. Theatre Francais, Rue de Ri- chelieu. This Theatre is dedi- cated to the representation of French dramas. Theatre de X Opera Comique } Rue Feydeau. This Theatre contains seventeen hundred spec- tators ; and is well calculated for music. Theatre de TOdeon, pres le Luxembourg. F rench dramas are represented in this Theatre. Theatre du Vaudeville , Rue de Chartres S. Honore. This Theatre generally exhibits a va- riety of little dramas, songs, etc. Theatre des Varietes , Boule- vard Montmartre. Manufacture Royale des Gla- ces , Rue de Reuilly. This Manu- facture is well worth notice ; as it employs eight hundred work- men ; who have attained such perfection in their art as to make Mirrors of 120 inches in length, by 80 wide. Manufacture Royale des Ta- pisseries de la Couronne , aux [ch. i. Gobelins , Rue Mouffetard. This Manufacture also is well worth notice ; as it exhibits the most beautiful Tapestry existing ; and may be seen on Saturdays, after two o’clock. Colonne de la Place Vendome. This stately column, 135 Paris feet in height, and 12 in diameter, 1 is made of the cannon taken from the enemies of France, in the battles fought by Napoleon and his Generals : it represents those battles in bronze bassi-rilievi ; and on its summit originally stood a colossal statue of the Emperor : which, after his dethronement, was taken down ; and has, ac- cording to report, been carried to Moscow. A winding staircase of 176 steps, leads to the top of this column ; from which the view of Paris is beautiful. Arc de Triomphe de T Etoile. On the 15th of August, 1806, Paris began to erect this fine Arch, in order to perpetuate the fame obtained in Germany, by the French Armies, during the former year : it was intended to be 135 Paris feet in height; but unfortunately is not finished. Porte S. Denis. The con- quests of Louis xiv., in 1672, induced the city of Paris to erect this magnificent triumphal Arch to perpetuate his fame. The bassi-rilievi represent mili- tary trophies, (remarkably well- executed,) personifications of Hol- land and the Rhine, the passage of the Rhine, and the taking of Maeslricht. Porte S. Martin. The conti- nued success of Louis xiv. in- duced the city of Paris to erect, in 1674, another monument to his fame : this Arch, though less 1 A Paris fool is nearly lliir teen English inches. PARIS. CH. I.] adorned than that of S. Denis, is, in point of architecture, equally harmonious and dignified. The bassi-rilievi represent the taking of Besancon, the triple alliance, the taking of Limbourg, and the defeat of the Germans ; figured by the god of war repulsing an eagle. Great artists were em- ployed in executing both these Gates. Tribunal du Corps Legislatif. Opposite to the bridge of Louis xvi., rises a magnificent Peristyle, formed by twelve Corinthian co- lumns surmounted by a triangular pediment : a superb flight of steps, adorned with colossal statues of Minerva and France, leads to the entrance of the building; and op- posite the bridge are statues of Sully, Colbert, I’Hopital, and d’A- guesseau. This peristyle forms the approach to the Hall of the Deputies. Basilique deNotre-Dame. This ancient edifice, surmounted by twin-towers of a majestic height, contains some good paintings of the French school, and a descent from the Cross (in sculpture) by the elder Goustou. Basilique de la Nouvelle S. Genevieve , ou le Pantheon, This elegant building, erected by com- mand of Louis xv. , after the de- sign of Soufflot, in the form of a Greek cross, is 340 Paris feet in length, peristyle inclusive, and 250 feet wide : in the centre rises a dome, nearly 03 feet in diame- ter, supported within, and adorn- ed without, by pillars, which pro- duce a pleasing effect. The exte- rior height of the dome is 282 feet ; and the interior height of the nave 170 feet. The peristyle con- sists of 22 Corinthian columns 1 The Church of S. Eustace is hold and light iu point of architecture; and the churches 19 58 feet high, and five and a half in diameter, supporting a triangu- lar pediment. 1 Garde Meuble de la Couronne , rue des Champs Ely sees. This deposit for the furniture belong- ing to the crown, is worth notice. Hotel royal des Invalides. This edifice was erected by command of Louis xiv., as a retreat for old and deserving soldiers of the French army ; and exhibits a magnificence most honourable to its Founder. The dome, deemed a master-piece of architecture, was designed by Jules Hardouin Mansard ; and (measuring from the pavement to the cross on the top of the lantern) is 300 Paris feet high : the lead which covers it was originally gilt, by order of Louis xiv. ; and re-gilt by com- mand of Napoleon. Round the interior of this dome are six cha- pels. In the great cupola Charles de Lafosse has painted the apothe- osis of S. Louis, and likewise the four Evangelists, placed between the principal arches. J. Jouvenet has represented, on the ceiling, the twelve apostles; Boullongne painted the chapels of S. Jerome, S. Ambroise, and S. Augustin, in which the history of these Fathers of the Church is given ; and the Chapel of S. Gregoire, painted originally by Le Brun, has been retouched by Doyen. The ceil- ing of the sanctuary, painted by Nicolas Coy pel, represents the mysteries of the Trinity, and the assumption of the Virgin. The groups of Angels, forming con- certs, in the embrasures of the windows, are by Louis and Bon Boullongne. The inlaid pavement of the dome and chapels particu- larly merits notice. This building of S. Roch aud S. Sulpiec, built alxmt l lie mid- dle of the eighteenth century, arc handsome. 20 PARIS. [ch. i. likewise contains the monument of the great Turenne ; who is re- presented dying in the arms of Victory ; while Wisdom and Va- lour stand on each side, deploring the loss of the Hero. In front is a bronze basso-rilievo of the battle of Turckeim ; and the only inscription on the monument is the word, 44 Turenne. ” The re- mains of Marshal Vauban have been honoured with a place oppo- site those of Turenne. The Ho tel des Invalides , which gives shelter and comfort to seven thousand Veterans, is open to the public every day, from ten in the morning till four in the afternoon. Institution Rojale des Sourds- Muets , Rue S. Jacques. The be- nevolent idea of teaching the deaf and dumb to speak, was formed by the Abbe de l’Epee, who, with a fortune of only twelve hundred livres per annum, maintained at his private expense, forty scholars of the above description ; and thus founded one of the noblest charities in France: but all the sacrifices he was compelled to make, in order to accomplish his purpose, would, at length, have proved fruitless, had not his ta- lents and virtues been renewed in the late AbbeSicard, who brought the plans of his predecessor to such perfection that he enabled the Deaf and Dumb, not only to read, write, and cast accounts, but likewise to understand turn- ing, working in mosaic, drawing* and painting, so as to get their own livelihood: he also taught them French and English gram- matically ; geography, history, geometry, and metaphysics; and, at the conclusion of every month, his Pupils had a public exhibition, to which Strangers were always admitted, on applying to the Di- rector of the Establishment for tickets. Hospice de la Salpetriere, Bou- levard de l' Hop i tali pres le Jardin du Roi. This vast and well-regu- lated Hospital, nobly endowed lay Louis xiv., and enriched by pri- vate contributions, is capable of containing nearly eight thousand persons; and receives females of all descriptions, incapable of earn- ing their bread. Hopital des Enfans-Trouves , Rue d'Enfer. The exemplary Vincent de Paul erected, in 1640, a Hospital for Foundlings ; which was afterwards greatly assisted both by private and public boun- ty; but, nevertheless, in 1792, out of eight thousand children, placed in this asylum, four thou- sand died ere they had attained their second year : and to check the course of this afflictive mor- tality, Monsieur Hombron con- ceived the idea of uniting the Mothers with their Children ; and thus preserving both : ceasing, therefore, to make a lying-in Hos- pital of the Hotel- Dieu , the French Government formed the Foundling-FIospital into a double establishment ; the one part for pregnant Women, and the other for deserted Infants. These two establishments are, how ever, now divided, the Lying-in Hospital being in the Rue de la Bourbe. Observatoire , Rue du Fau- bourg S. Jacques. This building was erected by the order of Louis xiv. ; and has, of late years, been much improved in point of con- venience, and amply furnished with astronomical instruments. Palais du Temple. Except the Palace of the Grand Prieur, no- thing remains of the edifice which, about the middle of the twelfth century, belonged to the Knights PARIS. 21 CH. I.] Templars; and was given, after their abolition, to the Knights of Malta. The Palace of the Grand Prieur, however, has been repair- ed at a large expense, and is now a convent. Palais de la Bourse, Rue des Filles S. Thomas . Paris long wanted an Exchange worthy of her riches and extensive com- merce, and this fine building does honour to its architect, Bron- gniard. Greniers de Reserve , Boule- vard Bourdon. This immense storehouse for grain, whose ap- pellation alone bespeaks its im- portance, was begun in 1807 ; and such is its size, that, although not carried to half the elevation in- tended, the expense of materials and labour only has amounted to twelv e millions of livres. Abattoirs , ou Tueries . Those buildings, constructed by the Ro- mans to give health to the ancient capital of the civilized world, were not more magnificent than the Abattoir or Slaughter-house of Mont Martre, situated at the top of the Rue de Rochechouart : the length of the ground on which it stands being 1078 Paris feet, and the breadth 385 feet. It contains a number of courts, watered by the Ourcq, four sheep pens, four ranges of stalls for oxen, commo- dious slaughter-houses, and ample storehouses for fodder, etc. The Abattoir de Popincourt , situated in the Rue des Amandiers S. An- toine, already boasts seven sheep- pens, and seven ranges of stalls lor oxen. The Abattoir dlvry, less vast, rises on the outside of the barrier des Deux Moulins : the Abattoir de Vaugirard , on the Place de Breleuil, equals the others in convenience if not extent. The Abattoir du Roule, erected in the Plaine de Mouceaux, at the ex- tremity of the Rue de Miromenil, is one of the most spacious. Halle au Ele , Rue de Viarmes. The cupola of this market, built in 1782, by Molinos and Legrand, was 377 Paris feet in circum- ference ; and from the pavement to its summit, 100 feet: it con- sisted of wood, placed in a hemis- pheric form, and apparently so slight, that it was impossible to contemplate this extraordinary piece of architecture without won- dering how it held together. After standing twenty years, it fell a prey to fire ; and has been restor- ed on a plan wholly new, and particularly well worth observa- tion, from rendering it invulner- able to the attacks of the element by which it was, in 1802, de- stroyed. Great additions have likewise been made to the size of the market; which was, previous- ly, too small for the consumption of the metropolis. Halle aux Tins , Quai S. Ber- nard. The ancient emporium for wines having fallen to decay, Na- poleon ordered the first stone of the present building to be laid on the 15th of August, 1813; and this immense edifice, constructed to hold four hundred thousand wine casks, is divided into nume- rous magazines and cellars. Marche a la Volaille et au Gibier. Nothing can be more elegant of its kind than this mar- ket ; which generally receives fresh supplies of game, etc., on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays. Of’ the sixteen Bridges which are seen at Paris, the Pont-Reiif \ , erected by Henry iv., is the long- 22 PARIS. [CH. I. est ; 1 the Pont Louis XVI , and that of the Ecole Militaire , the boldest with respect to design; and the Pont des Arts , and that of the Jar din du Roi , the most remarkable on account of their lightness, elegance, and arches of iron. A fine suspension bridge, called that of Les Invalides , is now building. Fontaine de VEsplanade du Boulevard de Bondi. The com- position of this fountain is simple; the execution good; and the ef- fect produced by the water, falling in sheets from basin to basin, par- ticularly pleasing. Fontaine des Innocens . This fountain was erected in 1551, ac- cording to the designs of Lescot and Goujon; and afterwards re- moved from its original situation, added to, and placed in the centre of the Marche des Innocens , where it now stands. Fontaine de Grenelle , Rue de Grenelle. This work, executed by Bouchardon, and erected in 1739, is admired with respect to the sculpture and architecture; but so sparingly provided with water, as to destroy the effect of the fountain, which is embellished with statues representing the city of Paris, the Seine, and the Marne. Fontaine de la Bastille. This magnificent fountain, designed by the emperor Napoleon, and, like too many of his works, unfinished, rises on the site of the Bastille, in a commanding situation ; and was to have been surmounted by an enormously colossal elephant, whose proboscis was to have dis- pensed the water. The model of this elephant may be seen in a building near the fountain. Cimetieres et Cata combes Paris formerly exhibited no burial- grounds adorned with funereal monuments ; the cause of which seems to have been, that the pos- sessors of riches and honours were entombed within the walls of con- secrated buildings ; while the mortal remains of the poor were thrown into the vast and common grave of the respective cemete- ries ; and even grudged a little earth to cover them. These re- ceptacles of corruption, by con- stantly evaporating putrid air, produced epidemic maladies ; and thus punished the living for their want of piety toward the dead: in 1773, therefore, the Parliament of Paris ordered the Cimetiere des Innocens (the largest and most noxious of these receptacles), to be closed : and soon after all the cemeteries within the city were closed likewise; though pride and interest still produced burials in the churches : the remains of the poor, however, were trans- ported, without scruple, from the ancient cemeteries, into vast and profound stone-quarries, on the outside of the city: and, during the revolution, even the asylum of a church did not preserve the bones of the deceased from the touch of sacrilege; the remains of the prince, and those of the peasant, finding, in the before- named quarries, a common grave. In 1800 a decree was issued for cemeteries to be formed without the city walls, and in 1804, Go- vernment empowered the friends of the deceased to erect monu- ments to their memory in the cemeteries ; a circumstance which soon changed the aspect of these chambers of death. The hand- l The statue of Henry IV. lias been recently re-erected on one side of the Ponl-Nenf. PARIS. 23 CH. I. somest cemetery in the environs of Paris is that of Pere Lachaise ; and here lie united all sorts and con- ditions of men ; Jews, Infidels, Papists, and Protestants, forming one common dust. To the south of Paris, under a spot called La Tombe Isso ire, is a funereal receptacle of another de- scription. Nothing above ground announces this abode of melan- choly ; which lies amidst vast stone-quarries ; and is denomi- nated The Catacombs, from the resemblance it bears to burial- places so called at Rome and Na- ples. Since the year 1806, this spot has been the receptacle for all the human bones which, during several ages, were accumulating in the cemeteries and suppressed churches within the walls of Paris. A dark staircase, just wide enough for one person, and penetrating ninety feet under ground, leads to the principal gallery, which ad- mits two persons abreast. To the right and left are vaults of great extent : and that strangers may not lose themselves in this dan- gerous labyrinth, a black line has been traced on the roof of the principal gallery, to serve as a guide. Rocks jutting out, here and there, relieve the too great uniformity of this gallery ; which leads to another, called that of Port-Mahon, from containing a model of the last named place, made by an old soldier who work- ed in the quarries, and was at length crushed to death, by an enormous stone which fell upon him. Picturesque and terrific rocks next meet the eye, and lead to a vestibule, at the end of which is a black door, the entrance to an apartment where millions of human bones, forming a kind of mosaic work, are placed in straight lines between the pillars which support the ponderous roof of the cavern ; whose walls ex- hibit, at intervals, religious sen- tences, descriptive of the immor- tality of the soul, and the blessings of the life to come. Here is likewise a small Chapel with an expiatory altar, on which are these words : “ Second Septem- bre , 1792.” The environs of Paris contain a variety of objects that merit no- tice ; the most prominent of which are the following : S. Cloud. The furniture of this royal Chateau (about two leagues from Paris, on the road to Versailles), is peculiarly splendid and elegant ; and its park merits attention, particularly when the water-works are exhibited. Sevres. This town, which is very near S. Cloud, contains the celebrated manufactory of China ; long deemed the most beautiful in Europe. Versailles . This is a fine town, four leagues distant from Paris ; and contains 28,000 in- habitants : its royal Chateau was despoiled and deserted during the revolutionary government ; but is now undergoing repair. The Ceilings and Theatre of this Pa- lace merit notice ; the Orangery is particularly beautiful ; the Wa- ter-Works are celebrated ; the Chateaux of Grand Trianon and Petit Trianon (both in the grounds), are objects of curiosity ; and the public Library of the town deserves attention. I will now close my account of Paris by saying, that it has gained much during the last twenty years, in point of wealth, con- venience, and external grandeur, and also with respect to society. The Parisians have paid England PARIS. 24 [CH. I. the compliment of adopting her taste, with respect to laying out gardens, shrubberies, etc. : they have likewise profited by her agricultural knowledge ; and also adopted many of her modes of Paris, like Calais, has been ridded, within the last twenty years, of that multitude of Men- dicants who formerly filled its streets : and, if we may judge by appearances, there are fewer in- dividuals of the French nation who have any need, at present, to depend on alms for their support. It is necessary that British Sub- jects, previous to leaving Paris, 1 The trouble and detention, with respect to Passports, which frequently occur at Paris, may be avoided, if a traveller provide himself, previous to bis departure from London, not only with the necessary passport from the French Ambassador, but likewise with an- other, from the Sardinian Ambassador, if he purpose crossing either Cenis, or the Estrelles; or, if he intend to cross the Simplon, from the Austrian Ambassador. A traveller thus pro- vided, is authorized to direct the Police-Office, should go to the Prefecture de Police , near the Pont-Neuf, to reclaim their Passports ; which are taken from them at the fron- tier, and sent hither : this Office is open from nine in the morn- ing till four. Hence, every Passport must be sent to the British Ambassador (whose sig- nature can only be obtained from eleven in the morning till one) ; then it must be taken once more to the Police Office. Persons going into Italy should likewise have their Passports counter- signed by the Austrian Ambas- sador at Paris . 1 either at Calais or Boulogne, or any other French port where he may land, to forward his passport to the last Custom-house in his road through France: he is also authorized to demand a provisional passport; on showing which, at the Pont de Beauvoisin, or any other frontier Custom-house, whither he may have ordered his original passport to be sent, he receives that passport again, and is thereby enabled to enter Italy. CHAPTER II, SWITZERLAND, THE SIMPLON, MILAN, etc. Journey to Fontainebleau— State of the road from Paris thither— Royal Chateau at Fontaine- bleau— Sens — Joigny— Auxerre — Slate of the road between the last-named town and Fon- tainebleau— S. Bris— Grottoes of Arcy— State of the road between Vermanlon and Lucy-le- Bois— Rouvray— Pont-de~Pany— Dijon— Description of that city— Genlis— Auxonne— Dole — Poligny — Military road over the Jura-Alps— French frontier Custom-house— Magnificent view on descending to Gex — Geneva— Description of that city— Lake of Geneva— Voltaire’s Villa atFerney — Excursion to Chamouni, and the Mont-Blanc— Description of the military road from Geneva, and over the Simplon, to Domo-d’Qssola— Lago-Maggiore— Borromean Islands— Colossal Statue of S. Carlo Borromeo — Description of the road from Sesto-Calende to Milan — Triumphal Arch intended as a termination to the Simplon-road— Milan — Descrip- tion of that city — Monza— Lodi— Custom-house near the Po— Piacenza— Description of that city — Parma— Description of that city— Reggio — Modena— Description of that city — Casttl Franco— Custom-house there— Bologna— Description of that city and its environs— Stale ot the road between Milan and Bologna — State of the road between Bologna and Florence — Volcano near Pie tramala— Country round Florence— Approach to that city. Being anxious to see the new military route, made over the Jura-Alps and the Simplon to Milan, and finding that the road from Dijon to the base of the Jura, though not good, was passable, 1 my friends and I determined to go that way into Italy. 2 After quitting Paris, we crossed the Orge on a fine bridge, drove through the village of Essonne, seated on the Juine (observing the Seine at a little distance), crossed the Ecolle at Ponthiery ; and then drove through the village of Chail- ly to the immense forest of Fon- tainebleau ; than which nothing can be more picturesque, nor, in some parts, more gloomily mag- nificent. On each side of the road are lofty ranges of grey rocks; and at their very summits beeches, and other trees, of an 1 From Auxonne to Poligny the road is, generally speaking, had after a continuance ot heavy rain; though it has been so well repaired, subsequent to June, 1817, that when 1 repassed it, during May, 1819, I found it one of the best roads in France. astonishing magnitude; the rich- ness of whose foliage, contrasted with the rude and barren appear- ance of the huge and shapeless masses of stone in which they vegetate, exhibits one of the most extraordinary scenes imagi- nable. After driving several miles, through this singular forest, we discovered in its centre, the town of Fontainebleau ; and soon found ourselves housed at a comfortable inn, 1' Hotel de la Ville de Lyon; where the charges are moderate ; a circumstance worth recollecting, at a place famed for the rapacity of its innkeepers. The road, from Paris to Fon- tainebleau, is paved, and in ex- cellent condition : the royal cha- teau in the last mentioned town merits notice ; as it contains 2 The most profitable money travellers can take from Paris into northern Italy is Napoleons ; .is they pass current for their full value throughout that country; neither does any loss accrue from taking them into southern Italy. 1 ) 26 FONTAINEBLEAU— SENS. [ch. ii. magnificent apartments beauti- fully painted in arabesque ; splen- did furniture ; peculiarly fine specimens of Sevres china ; and some few good easel pictures ; among which is the blessed Vir- gin and Infant Saviour, S. John, and Elizabeth, by Raphael. The Gallery contains a bust of Henry iv., said to be the best likeness extant of that great prince ; and, in the same apartment, are busts of Francis i., Sully, Washington, and the celebrated Duke of Marl- borough. In this chateau, like- wise, is a small mahogany table, on which Napoleon signed his ab- dication; and which still bears marks of a penknife it was his custom, while thinking deeply, to strike into the table or desk he wrote upon. Fontainebleau is supposed to contain 9,000 inhabitants. On quitting this town, we re- entered the forest; and drove se- veral miles, amidst scenery not unlike parts of the Pyrenees, to Fossard; thence proceeding, by the side of the Yonne, to Ville- neuve- la -Guiard, 1 Pont-sur- Yonne, and Sens ; between the two last of which places the country is rich in vineyards. Sens, anciently the capital of the Sennones, contains 11,000 in- habitants, is seated at the con- fluence of the Yonne and the Vanne, and encircled by hand- some promenades, and Roman works, which deserve the notice of antiquaries. Its cathedral is adorned with fine painted glass, namely, two roses, the one repre- senting Heaven, the other Pur- gatory (these are placed above the two side-doors of the church) ; 1 A good inn here, the Hotel de la Souclie. 2 The best inn here is the Hotel de L’Ecu, kept by Goisset, fils. and the windows in the Chapels of S. Eutrope and N. D. de Lo- retlo, which were executed by J. Cousin. The Chapel of S. Sa- vinien contains an excellent re- presentation, in stucco, of a cur- tain ; and in the centre of the choir is a monument, by Cous- tou, erected to the memory of the unfortunate parents of Louis xviii., and embellished with statues of Religion, Immortality, Conjugal Love, and Time, whose ihantle covers the Dauphin’s urn, and seems ready to envelope that of the Dauphiness ; she being alive when this monument was begun. The cypress wreaths are remarkably well executed, and the statues of Time and Religion much admired ; especially the latter, but the shape of the monu- ment wants elegance. 2 On quitting Sens, we crossed the Yanne, driving through a fine valley watered by the Yonne ; the graceful sinuosities of which river, combined with the vineyards on its banks, greatly embellish this part of France. After passing through a magnificent avenue of poplars to Yilleneuve-sur- Yonne, a pretty town containing a large, and, judging from the outside, a handsome church, we reached Yillevallier ; thence traversing a bold and picturesque country to Joigny, 3 anciently Joviniacum , built on each side of the Yonne, and joined together by a hand- some bridge ; the circumstance, perhaps, from which it may de- rive its modern name. The Cha- teau here, erected by the Cardinal di Gondi, commands an extensive view; and the adjoining church of S. Jean contains a curious Sar- 3 A good inn here, the Hotel des Cinq Mineurs. ch. ii. ] " AUXERRE, etc. 27 cophagus; on the cover of which the aid of torches; and are, is a recumbent figure, apparently during winter, full of water, and designed to represent our Saviour ; at all times damp. Yermanton while surrounding three parts of is sealed on the right bank of the the Sarcophagus, are several sta- Cure ; and from this town to tues, which, owing to their situ- about one league beyond the next ation, appear gigantic. post (Lucy-le-Bois) the road, un- From Joigny we proceeded, less frequently repaired, becomes through Bassou, to Auxerre; 1 bad after heavy rain : a new which is seated on the left bank of branch, commencing near Lucy- the Yonne, and contains 12,000 le-Bois, has, however, been lately inhabitants. It stands amidst made to this road : and, though wide-stretching vineyards; as do longer, it should always be pre- all the large towns in this part of ferred to the old road, because France; and but for the extreme harder and smoother, ugliness of Gallic architecture, Having passed Avallony, 4 which when uncorrected by Italian is pleasantly situated on the banks taste, might be called a handsome of the Cousin, and contains 5,500 city: its public edifices seem to inhabitants, we proceeded through have been considerably injured an uninteresting country, to Rou- by the late revolutions : its Cathe- vray ; 5 thence driving by the side dral, however, merits notice; and of the Cousin, and then crossing contains fine painted glass. The the Serein, on our way to Maison- three Gothic churches of S. Pierre neuve, 6 and Yilteaux 7 on the likewise deserve attention; as do Brenne, which contains 2,000 in- the Quai-Conde, the Quai-Bour- habitants. After this, we tra- bon, and the Promenades. versed a hilly country, embellish- We found the road between ed with vineyards, to La Chaleur Fontainebleau and Auxerre paved (called Mal-nommee ; it being a in some places, well-kept through- very cold place) ; hence proceed- out, and peculiarly exempt from ing to Pont-de-Pany ; and observ- steep hills ; but, between the last- ing no objects that particularly named town and S. Bris, it be- deserved attention, till, oncoming comes hilly, and continues so for to a chateau, once magnificent, several leagues. After quitting but now reduced to ruins, we w 7 ere S. Bris, we proceeded to Yennan- agreeably surprised to discover, ton; 2 two leagues south of which, at an abrupt turn of the road, are the celebrated grottoes of beautiful Alpine scenery, con- Arcy ; and either from Yennan- tinuingthe whole way to the Post- ton, or Lucy-le-Bois, 3 the Post- house 8 at Pont-de-Pany, a bridge master will allow his horses to go thrown over the Ouche, near the round by these grottoes, which head of the Canal of Burgundy, contain fine stalactites ; but can- Hence we drove for a short time not be seen to advantage without between rocks and mountains ; * P er j a ^ e food inns, namely, Le Leo- 5 Two inns, L’H6lel de la Posle, which el de Beaune. is remarkably good, and JJ Hotel du Kai- 2 L Hotel de S , Nicolas is a good inn; sin. and there are others. 6 Inn, La Paste, and tolerably good. 6 Lucy-le-Bois contains two inns, the 7 Inn, La Paste, and good. Post-house and L' Hotel des Diligences. 8 The Post-house at Pout-de-Pany is a j if.'' 0 ‘ nns j Lion d’Or, and La faille tolerably good inn. de Dijon. ° 28 DIJON — AUXONNE — DOLE. [ch.ii. and then traversed a fine country to Dijon ; passing, as we ap- proached that town, some curious rocks on the left. Dijon (anciently Dibio ), the ca- pital of Burgundy, and supposed to contain 21,600 inhabitants, is seated in a fertile plain, between the rivers Ouche and Suzon, and must formerly have been hand- some, but has suffered so severely from the late revolutions, that few of its public edifices now me- rit notice, except the spires of S. Benigneand S. Jean ; the former of which, 375 Paris feet in height, is called the finest piece of archi- tecture of its kind in Europe ; the latter does not measure quite 300 Paris feet. The Promenade du Cours merits notice ; and on the City Gate, leading to Pont-de- Pany, is the Car of Victory, not long since placed there in honour of the duke d’Angouleme. Com- merce appears to flourish at Dijon ; and wines, together with eatables of every kind, are par- ticularly good ; but the climate, to persons who suffer from a cold and cutting wind, is ungenial. 1 Soon after quilting this city we discovered the Jura Mountains : and, on entering the next town, Genlis, observed to the right, a chateau, said to belong to the Comtesse of that name, so much distinguished in the literary world by her writings for the use of young people. Genlis is a pretty village, adorned with neat houses, and a handsome bridge over the Norge. 2 Hence we proceeded to Auxonne, seated on the Sadne, and containing 5,000 inhabitants. 3 A battle was fought in this neigh - 1 Here are several inns; the Hotel du Pure and the Hotel de la Cloche are very good ones. 2 Best inn, L' Hotel de la Cote d’Or. 3 Inns, H Hotel du Grand Cerf, very good; and V Hotel du Mont-Jura. bourhood, between the French and the Allies ; and bones of men and horses were, not long since, sufficiently discoverable to mark the field of action. The road is hilly to the next post, Dole : that town, built on the Doubs, was once strong, but Louis xiv. demolished its forti- fications. The College, one of the finest in France, the Prome- nade, called Le Cours, and the Canal of the Rhine, merit obser- vation : and near Dole are remains of the ancient Roman road which extended from Lyon to the banks of the Rhine. 4 On quitting Dole we crossed a wooden bridge, ac- cording to appearance recently erected; and observed, both to the right and left, stone bridges broken down. After passing the rivers Doubs, Clause, Louve, and Cuisance, and driving through a particularly long and beautiful avenue of poplars terminated each way by a bridge, we arrived at Monl-sous-Vaudrey ; thence de- scending, not rapidly, but almost constantly, to Poligny, amidst corn-fields and vineyards. Poligny is situated at the ex- tremity of an extensive plain, near the source of the Glantine, and at the base of the Jura ; it contains 5,300 inhabitants. 5 On quitting Poligny we began to ascend the Jura Mountains, through a fine road, constructed by order of Napoleon, to form part of the Grande Route militaire, leading to the Simplon : and so judiciously are the ascents and de- scents of this pass managed, that a drag-chain is seldom requisite even for heavy carriages, though be- 4 Best inn at Dole, V Hotel de la Ville de Paris. 5 Here are two inns, L’Hotel de Geneve, and L'Hoiel du Grand Cerf. The former is the best. ch. ii.] JURA MOUNTAINS. 29 tween Morez and Les Rousses the road, in some few places, would be rendered much pleasanter, and indeed much safer, by the addition of parapet walls. The base of the Jura presents, near Poligny, thorns, briers, gooseberry-bushes, beech-trees, and enormous rocks of granite. The commencement of the ascent exhibits bold and beautiful Alpine scenery, together with a magnifi- cent view of the vast and fertile plains of France: while, not far distant from Poligny, are pictu- resque ruins of a spacious con- vent, seated amidst rich vine- yards, and encircled by luxuriant woods. Having reached the sum- mit of the first ascent, and passed Boreau, where the rocks are strik- ingly fine, we traversed a compa- ratively tame country to Champa- gnole, a town of considerable size, situated on the right bank of the Ain. 1 Much of this town appears recently built, as indeed do the greater part of all the towns, vil- lages, and pretty detached cot- tages on the Jura Mountains. At Champa gnole we crossed the Ain; thence proceeding through a country adorned with pasturages, cottages, villages, and woods, to a magnificent gallery, cut through the side of lofty rocks, clothed with firs to their summits; while opposite to this gallery rise woods and mountains still more elevat- ed ; and in a deep dell, at the base of the road, runs a torrent, whose waters further on, at the bridge of Dombief, form a beau- tiful cascade. Continuing our course through wild and sublime scenery, we reached a romantic \ Here are two small inns, namely, The Hotel de. Geneve, and Tne Hotel de Lyon, at eitnerot which travellers might breakfast or dine, but they would be comfortless sleep- ing-places. village, called Maison-neuve ^be- yond which, to the left, amon' f woods of peculiarly beautiful firs, are rocks worth notice, on ac- count of their whimsical shape. Having passed another village, and driven through a fine graz- ing country, bounded by woods, we crossed the Pont-de-Leme, and arrived at S. Laurent. 3 The road from Champagnole hither is excellent, and, generally speak- ing, a gradual ascent ; and no sooner does the winter-snow be- gin to disappear in this country, than the hedges and pasturages are adorned with such a variety and profusion of beautiful flowers as no other part of the Alps can boast. Quitting S. Laurent, we re- crossed the Leme, driving amidst cottages and pasturages to another magnificent gallery, cut through woods of beech and fir, and ter- minated by a plain. Hence we descended for five miles, between rocks and mountains, clothed with beeches, to Morez, a considerable town, seated on the river Bienne, and close to a brawling torrent, called Le Bief de la Chaille, in a valley so narrow as merely to ad- mit two rows of houses and the street which divides them. The mountains that form this valley rise almost perpendicularly, like walls of a stupendous height, and give Morez the appearance of being entombed in the lowest dell of the Alps ; it contains, how- ever, some good houses, together with 1,200 inhabitants. 4 Here we were obliged to continue nearly two days, because our passports had neither been signed by the 2 Maison-neuve contains an inn where travellers might breakfast or dine, but it is not a sleeping-place. 3 Inn, La Paste, and very comfortable. 4 Inn, La Postc, and very comfortable. 30 JURA MOUNTAINS. Austrian Minister at Paris, nor the French Minister of the Inte- rior ; nor yet at the gates of the different cities through which we had passed. In vain I urged that they had been granted by the French Ambassador in Lon- don, expressly for the purpose of enabling us to travel through France to Italy, and that we never were asked to show them at the gates of the cilies through which we had passed ; in short, after consulting every person in the town who seemed capable of giving advice with respect to this vexatious detention, we were compelled to send one of our servants fifteen miles, through a dangerous road, to the Sub-Pre- fect of the district, entreating him to let us proceed : and though our petition was immediately and most handsomely granted, we, nevertheless, found, in all the remaining part of our jour- ney, great inconvenience from the want of Austrian passports ; and this, indeed, is not surpris- ing, as the Emperor of Austria may now be called the Ruler of Italy. Having obtained leave to quit Morez, we proceeded to Les Rousses by a steep ascent, pa- rallel with a noisy torrent, and between immense rocks, above which tower the mountains of Rezoux and Dole, 1 resplendent with snow, while the near pro- spect presents Alpine trees, shrubs, and flowers. This road, for some miles beyond Morez, is too narrow to be perfectly safe, either in the dark, or after heavy rain. Having passed Les Rousses, which contains the frontier cus- 1 The Dole rises 3948 Paris feet above the level of the Lake of Geneva, and is one tom-house of France, where, how- ever, on quitting that kingdom, travellers meet with no deten- tion, we traversed several valleys to La Yattay; thence proceeding to Gex, 2 through a magnificent road, or (more properly speak- ing) gallery, w'hich passes under a deep archway hewn out of a granite rock ; and exhibits, for nearly a mile, an upper gallery made to catch the earth and stones, which are continually falling from the more elevated parts of the Alp. On the descent stands the Fontaine Napoleon , bearing an inscription nearly ob- literated. This side of the Jura is embel- lished with luxuriant pasturages, neat cottages, and noble woods of beech and fir, which clothe its summits : but what particularly arrests the attention of travellers on descending towards Gex, is a prospect, abruptly presented to their view, of the Pays de Vaud, the Lake of Geneva, and the stu- pendous Glaciers which surround it ; a prospect so perfectly unique, rich, beautiful, and sublime, as neither to be described nor ima- gined; and all I shall say of it is, that I am persuaded there are few persons who would not think themselves recompensed for al- most any degree of fatigue by seeing this prospect to advantage. Having passed Gex, and the villa once belonging to Voltaire at Ferney, we entered Geneva ; crossing, on the way to our hotel in that city, two bridges, whose arches are bathed with the waters of the lake, which, under the ap- pellation of the Rhone, continue their course through France to the Gulf of Lyons. of the loftiest summits of Lhe Jura Alps. 2 Best Inn, Les Balances. ca. ii.] Geneva, said to contain near 30,000 inhabitants, and anciently a strong town, belonging to the Allobroges,, is delightfully situated on the immense lake which bears its name, and divided into unequal parts by the Rhone. It possesses fewer public buildings worth no- tice than almost any other large city of Europe : but this defi- ciency is counterbalanced by the line views from its ramparts, and the peculiar richness and beauty of its environs ; which boast a considerable number of hand- some villas, and a great variety of delightful walks, rides, and drives. The public Library , open every Tuesday morning from one tiil three, merits notice ; as it con- tains rare and curious boohs ; and an ancient Roman silver shield, adorned with bassi-rilievi , and found in the bed of the Arve, during the year 1721 . 1 The Hy- draulic Machine, which supplies the fountains of the city w ith wa- ter, likewise merits notice. 2 The Leman, or Lake of Ge- neva, anciently called Lemanus , is computed to be about nineteen leagues in length, and between three and four in breadth at the widest part, near Rolle : it a- bounds with fine fish, and its banks are said to be visited by forty-nine kinds of birds. The object generally thought best worth notice, in the imme- diate vicinity of Geneva, is Vol- taire’s villa at Ferney ; which house, since the death of its first owner, has had many masters ; but they have all deemed it sacri- 1 The Library belonging to Barbezat and Delarue, Rue de derriere le Rhone, No. 177, facing the Post Office, where most of the Euro- pean .newspapers may lie found, contains a large collection of books. Those of M. Ledouble and.M. Cherbulier are also well furnished. 2 The best hotels in the city of Geneva are, 31 lege to change any thing : and consequently the rooms are fur- nished just the same as when he died. On entering the hall my at- tention was caught by a large pic- ture, composed by Voltaire him- self, and executed by a wretched artist whom he met with at Fer- ney. That Voltaire was the vain- est of men I have always heard ; but that any man could have the overweening vanity to compose such a picture of himself is scarce- ly credible. In the fore-ground stands this celebrated philoso- pher, holding the Henriade, which he is presenting to Apol- lo, who has just descended from Olympus, in order to receive it : in the back-ground is the temple of Memory, toward which flies Fame, at the same time pointing to the Henriade. — The Muses and Graces are surrounding Voltaire ; and seem in the act of carrying his bust to the temple of Memory — the heroes and heroines of the Henriade are standing astonished at his wonderful talents — the au- thors who wrote against him are falling into the infernal regions, which gape to receive them and their works ; while Envy and her Imps are expiring at his feet: the family of Galas likewise is exhi-* bited in this picture. From the hall we entered a handsome sa- loon, ornamented with a bust of Voltaire ; and a design in china for the tomb of a lady supposed to have died in child-birth, but who was, in fact, buried alive : it represents the lady aud her child bursting through the tomb ; which is broken by the artist in so natu- Les Balances and L’Ecji de Geneve ; at tbc latter of which the charges are moderate. Ihe dinners well served, and the beds good: hut the smells in this house render it unpleasant. We paid three francs a-hcad for dinner at the Ecu de Geneve. GENEVA. 32 CH AMOUNT. [ch. ii- ral a manner, that one feels ready to exclaim, “ What a pity it is that this beautiful monument has met with an accident.” In Vol- taire’s bed-room are portraits of his friends ; and the vase wherein his heart was placed before its re- moval to Paris : this monument is of black marble, plain, but neat; and immediately under that place which contained the heart is writ- ten : “ Mon esprit esl partout , et mon coeur est ici .” Over the vase is written : “ Mes manes sont con- soles, puisque mon coeur est au milieu de vous alluding, I pre- sume, to the surrounding por- traits; namely, Frederic the Great of Prussia ; Le Kain, the cele- brated French actor ; Catherine ii. of Russia; and Madame du Chas- telet. Voltaire himself is in the centre ; and in various parts of the room are Newton, Milton, and several other great men, both English and French. After resting ourselves, for a day, at the Hotel d' Angleterre, at Secheron, one of the best inns on the Continent, and about a quarter of a league from Geneva, we hired a landau and four horses for three days, in order to visit the celebrated Valley of Chamouni, and see as much of Mont-Blanc as is practicable during so early a part of summer as the commence- ment of June. 1 At five o’clock, therefore, on a cloudless and de- lightful morning, we set out from Secheron ; drove through Geneva the moment the gates of that city were opened, 2 and almost im- mediately entered Savoy ; finding the road good, the ascents gentle, the country abounding with corn, vineyards, and fruit-trees ; rose- 1 A Swiss cabriolet, called un char-a- banc, is an excellent. carriage for this excur- sion ; because it can go the whole way lo Cha- mouni; which a coach or post-chaise cannot. mary and barberry-bushes grow- ; ing in and near the hedges, and beeches, mingled with firs, crown- j ing the heights. At the dis- tance of half a league from Ge- • neva we passed through Chene ; and, one league further on, dis- covered, in profile, the Saleve ; I passing, scon after, the chateau of Mournex, and the hill and cha- teau of Esery. We then crossed | the Menoge, a river which rises at the base of the Voirons; tra- versed the villages of Nangi and Gontamine ; and saw, towering above us, the ruins of the castle of Fossigny. Our first stop was at Bonne- ville; rather a large town, con- taining two inns ; either of which can furnish a good breakfast and delicious honey. After baiting our horses for an hour and a half, we resumed our journey ; crossing the Arve on a stone bridge, 500 feet in length, pass- ing through the small town of Cluse, and then traversing the delightful valley of Maglan, rich in corn, vineyards, and fruit-trees, enamelled with flowers, and en- circled by enormous and fantasti- cally-shaped Alps, crowned with woods of beech and fir, and ex- hibiting the most wild and pictu- resque scenery imaginable. These Alps seemed gradually to increase in magnitude as we advanced ; while the glens, through which our road lay, gradually grew nar- rower. Three quarters of a league beyond Maglan we perceived, on our left, a magnificent cascade, called Nant d’Arpenas, falling from a height of 800 feet ; and, shortly after, we were presented with a view of Mont-Blanc, which 2 The gales of Geneva are usually opened about five in the morning, during jammer, and shut al ten in the evening. ch. ii.l CHAMOUNI. 33 continues to exhibit its awful and stupendous beauties the whole way to Chamouni. We now saw the town of Salenclie, seated near a noisy torrent, at the base of cul- tivated mountains, above whose lofty summits rise pyramids of eternal snow. Leaving this town on our right, we drove to S. Mar- tin, and found there a good inn, the Hotel de Mont-Blanc , con- taining a considerable number of beds, and commanding a particu- larly fine view of that part of the mountain denominated the Dome du Goule. This inn likewise con- tains a small cabinet of natural history for sale. From S. Martin, or Salenche, to Chamouni, is a journey of six or seven hours ; which can only be accomplished on foot, on horse, or mule-back, or in a char-a- banc : we therefore left our Ge- neva carriage at S. Martin, where ■we slept ; hiring, instead, a char- a-banc, at eighteen French livres per day; three mules, at seven livres each per day ; and three Guides, at six livres each per day ; beside the driver of the char. Our guides were Jean Riant, Yinence Riant, and Colas Dufour ; and we found them all civil, careful, and intelligent. At a very early hour in the morning we left S. Martin ; and not long after crossed the Nant Sauvage, a dangerous torrent when swollen with rain : gene- rally speaking, however, the road, though rough, is safe; but the aspect of the country between S. Martin and Servoz, particu- lar spots excepted, is wild and gloomy ; though here, and indeed throughout our whole excursion, we saw an infinite number of flowers, intermingled with bar- berry and rosemary-bushes. On approaching the village of Chede, we crossed another delicious plain; and passed through seve- ral hamlets, which, in times of civil discord, afforded shelter to the ancient Romans. The mag- nificent cascade of Chede is about a quarter of a league from that village ; and the lake of Chede, situated near the road, though small, is pretty, and serves to re- flect on its bosom the majestic summits of Mont-Blanc, which is easily distinguished from its neighbours by being the only tri- ple-headed monster among them. Proceeding to the beautiful and fertile valley of Servoz, we could not behold, without shuddering, the ruins of an Alp, which, in its fall, menaced this luxuriant spot with destruction ; insomuch that the inhabitants fled precipitately; though not quick enough to pre- vent some of their children from being crushed to death : and the dust produced by rocks thrown violently against eacli other, led people at first to imagine that this terrific crash of nature proceeded from the eruption of a volcano. We breakfasted at Servoz, a small village containing one soli- tary inn, somewhat like a hedge- alehouse in England, but where good honey and eggs may be pro- cured, and likewise good coffee. Continuing our route, we passed a stream called the Servoz ; and then, crossing the Arve on a pic- turesque bridge, discovered, to our right, the ruins of the Chateau de S. Michel; and, to our left, an abyss, where, impaled in jagged rocks of the most sombre hue, in- terspersed with fir-trees, (lows the Arve, exhibiting a scene sublime even to horror. After ascending some w r ay, by the side of this ra- vine, we at length entered the far- 34 CHAMOUNI. [ch. ii 1 famed valley of Chamouni; first observing the glacier of Taconai ; then, that of Bossons; and, at a distance, that of Bois; then tra- versing the torrent of Nagin, the hamlet of Ouche, the torrents of Gria, Taconia. and Bossons, and the Arve, previous to our arrival at the town of Chamouni. This town owes its existence to a con- vent of Benedictines, founded, in 4099, by a Count of Geneva ; but the valley in which it stands might pjrobably have been unknown at the present period, if two English gentlemen, Messrs. Windham and Pocock, had not, in the year 1741, discovered it ; and given to mo- dern Europe details respecting a place which even the natives of Geneva, though only 4 eighteen leagues distant, had never heard of. It is situated 3,174 feet above the level of the Mediterranean sea, and contains two inns, both tolerably good. The verdant clothing of the singular valley of Chamouni is beautifully contrasted with cloud- capped mountains, silvered by eternal snow ; gloomy forests, chiefly composed of firs ; cot- tages and hamlets scattered here and there ; brawling torrents and rocks of red porphyry and gra- nite, interspersed with glaciers of a dazzling whiteness, whence rise sea-green pyramids of ice, which, when illuminated either by the sun or moon, exhibit a prospect unique and wonderful ; but, ne- vertheless, so much has been said in praise of this valley, that I own I felt disappointed on seeing it. The botanist and mineralogist may find ample amusement at Chamouni : and here, as at S. Martin, there is, for sale, a cabi- net of natural history, contain- ing minerals of Mont-Blanc and S. Gothard; seals, necklaces, etc made of the crystal of Mont- Blanc ; together with insects and plants indigenous to the higher] Alps. The honey of Chamouni) is excellent. Every part of the valley pre- sents a view of Mont-Blanc; this gigantic Alp, primeval with a world whose several changes it i has quietly witnessed, is said, by] M. de Luc, to be fifteen thou- sand three hundred and three English feet, and, by M. de Saus- sure, seventeen thousand seven hundred Paris feet above the level of the Mediterranean sea : while the crust of snow, on its sides and summits, is supposed to ex- ceed four hundred feet in depth. The first persons who ever reach- ed the top of this stupendous mountain, seem to have been Jacques Balmat, of Chamouni, and Dr. Paccard : they went in the year 1786, and in 4787 were followed by M. de Saussure and an English gentleman. Without aspiring so high as to think of following their steps, we felt a great inclination to ascend to the Mer de Glace : but, on inquiry, it appeared that the Montanvert, which leads to the Mer de Glace , was so much clogged with snow, and threatened by avalanches, as to be impassable : our guides, however, assured us, that, by mounting the Chapeau , a giddy- ing eminence opposite to Montan- vert, we might obtain the gratifi- cation of our wishes, so far as to see the Mer de Glace ; though we could not, by that path, reach it. Taking a hasty dinner, there- fore, at Chamouni, we ordered our' mules and char-a-banc , bid- ding the guides provide the cus- tomary walking-sticks at Chamou- ni, which are six feet in length, CHAMOUNL CH. II.] with a sharp iron spike at the end of each. We then mounted our char, attended by the guides ; who, when seated on their mules, and armed with our spear- like walking-sticks, very much resem- bled knights-errant of old, though not arrayed quite comme il faut for a tournament. We drove during half an hour through a good road, but were then obliged, owing to the rapidity of the as- cent, to leave our carriage, and mount the mules: these animals conveyed us safely through a dirty hamlet, and up part of the Cha- peau, till the road became so rug- ged, and the ascent so very steep, that we deemed it more prudent to trust to our own feet than those of the mules: and, each of us taking the arm of a guide, we pursued our way by walking at the extreme edge of terrific pre- cipices, through a path so rug- ged, that nothing but the spiked sticks, with which we penetrated the ground at every step, could have prevented us from falling. By perseverance, however, we attained the wished-for height, and discovered, immediately a- bove us, the Mer de Glace , I though not that part which exhi- bits an unequal surface, but the i smooth margin, whence descends an immense glacier ; opposite to which we stood a full half hour, 35 listening to the noise of distant and near avalanches, which the stillness of the scene rendered doubly audible, and contemplat- ing the extraordinary appearance of the glacier, which I can com- pare to nothing but a narrow and tempestuous ocean, whose tower- ing waves have been suddenly rendered motionless by an All- powerful hand. Our journey to and from the Chapeau occupied three hours and a half : we therefore return- ed late to Chamouni : and, after having entered our names, and made our remarks in the travel- lers’ book, which is a curious composition, we rested a few hours ; and then set out early next morning for Geneva, under a sky perfectly serene and cloudless. From Chamouni to Servoz we were three hours in returning — from Servoz to S. Martin three and a half*— from S. Martin to Bonneville four— and from Bonne- ville to Geneva three and a half. The price charged for dinner, at S. Martin and Chamouni, is five francs a-head— for beds, two francs a-head — and for breakfast, two francs and a half per head. There is a mule-road, nine leagues in distance, from Cha- mouni to Martigny, which leads to S. Bernard and the Simplon . 1 II Having determined to pursue 1 Persons who visit Chamouni at the pro- per season for ascending the Montanvert, \ should engage careful and judicious guides; I and likewise hire a porter to carry cold pro- ' visions and wine. Ladies sometimes go part | ot the way in chaise s-d-porteur ; for each f of which it is requisite to have six chairmen ; \ but good walkers had much belter trust to their feet. I It being a work of full three hours to ascend i the Montanvert, and then descend to the r Mer de Glace, il is advisable to set out from |i Chamouni by seven in the morning. For about h one league and a quarter, there is a safe mule- I I road, passing through forests of firs, which I exhibit traces ol ancient avalanches, enormous blocks of granite, and large trees laid pros- trate; but on entering a narrow and rugged path, called Le Chernin des Crystalliers, it is no longer practicable to go on mules ; here, therefore, these animals are usually sent hack to the Source of the Arveron . The view near a little Fountain, called Le Caillet, me- rits notice: as the Arve, in the plain beneath, appears, from this elevated spot, like a thread ; the Bourg like card-houses; and the fields and meadows like the squares of a chess-board, or beds in a flower-garden embellished with various shades of green. Beyond this foun ■ tain the road is excessively steep and rugged, though not dangerous; arid after passing the Hdpvtal de Blair, built by an English gcu- 36 ROUTE TO THE SIMPLON. the shortest route from Geneva to the Simplon, by passing through Savoy, instead of going round by Lausanne and the Pays de Vaud, we set out for Coligny; travers- ing a fine road, bordered with fruit-trees, corn-fields, and vine- yards, and bounded by the Jura mountains on the right, and the Lake of Geneva, with its stupen- dous glaciers, on the left. We then crossed a bridge, which marks the limits between the territories of Geneva and Savoy ; observed a finely situated old castle, and discovered Cenis, with great part of the lofty chain to which that Alp belongs. On ar- riving at Dovaine in Savoy, where the custom-house officers expect to be feed by travellers, we had our trunks plumbed, in order to secure them from examination, and then proceeded to Thonon; 1 the road to which place exhibits llcman of that name, the Traveller is pre- sented with a sight of the Mer de Glace ; to reach which, occupies a full quarter of an hour; and persons who venture to walk upon its surface should he especially careful to avoid the cracks and chasms with which it abounds : the colour these chasms assume is a beautiful sea-green ; and the waves of this frozen ocean, which from the top of Montan- vert appear like furrows in a corn-field, are now discovered to be hillocks from twenty to forty feet high. The Mer de Glace is eight leagues in length, and one in breadth; and on its margin rise pyramidical rocks, called Needles, whose summits are lost in the clouds ; they likewise are denominated the Court of their august Sovereign, Mont- Blanc; who glitters, on the opposide side, in stately re- pose; and being far more exalted than her attendants, veils in the heavens, which she seems to prop, a part of her sublime and majestic beauties. From the Mer de Glace travellers usually reascend th e Montana ert, and dine either at I’Hopital de Blair , or La Pierre des Anglais ; an immense block of granite, so called because Messrs. Wind- ham andPocock,in 1741, made it their dinner- table, after they had penetrated, without a guide, into these unknown regions. Hence is 4 the descent to the Source of the Anjeron, through the Chemin des Cheares ; a short but extremely rugged path ; on pursuing which it is not uncommon to see avalanches fall from the surrounding mountains, and pyramids of ice tumble with a tremendous crash and roll to the bottom of Montanvert , [GH. II. a particularly fine view of the Lake, encircled by the Pays de Yaud, the Jura, the plains of Savoy, and the great Alps ; and winds through a country abound- ing with corn and vines, trained in the Italian manner, from tree to tree. Thonon, the ancient capital of the Duchy of Chablais, is plea- santly situated on the Lake. The site of the castle merits notice; and at a small distance from the town is the Convent of Ripaille. Hence we drove to Evian (cele- brated for its mineral waters) ; crossing the Dranse, on a long narrow bridge, apparently built by the ancient Romans : but what especially charmed us in this part of the road, was the bold and varied outline presented by the Alps ; together with the pictu- resque ruins of an ancient castle, beautifully surrounded with woods at whose base is the Source of the Arveron ; after examining which, travellers usually re-mount Lheir mules, and return to Cha- mouni. The inhabitants of this country are well- looking, sensible, honest, and remarkably fearless. The woods are peopled with rabbits, white hares, martens, and ermines ; the rocks with marmots and the sagacious chamois. These last-named animals live together in flocks, and generally feed in valleys where no sportsman can penetrate; while a few are constantly detached from the main body, as scouts; and others perform the duty of sen- tinels. The courage and agility with which the chamois leaps from precipice to precipice, and scales rocks almost perpendicular, should teach the boldest Alpine travellers not to feel vain of their achievements. Persons w ho wish to vary their route back to Geneva, may return by the Col de Balme ; from whose summit the Valais, the Rhone, the great and the small S. Bernard, the passages of Cenis and the Simplon, S. Gothard, and the Alps of Berne and Unterwalde, are all dis- coverable; while the sublimity of this exten- sive view is greatly heightened by a near prospect of Mont-Blanc and her surrounding Needles. I would, however, rather advise travellers :o return by Six, Samoens, and Thonon; whence it is easy to embark upon the Lake, and proceed to Geneva. Going all the way by land, the distance is fifteen leagues. 1 Inn, Les Balances, and not very com- fortable as a sleeping-place. % 37 ROUTE TO THE SIMPLON. of intermingled walnut and ches- nut trees. Soon after passing this ruin, our road conducted us to the very brink of the Lake, shad- ed by trees of the before-named description ; the town of Morge being exactly opposite ; and, still further to the left, that of Lau- sanne. A fishing-boat, rowed by women and children, and a vessel laden with wood for Geneva, gave additional interest to this delight- ful scene. Continuing our course by the side of the Lake, we reached the rocks of Meillerie 1 * (immortalized by Rousseau) ; which exhibit strik- ing proofs of the obstacles pre- sented by nature, to the forma- tion of the new military road made by Napoleon, and cut through masses of stone 200 feet high ; which tower on one side, above the traveller ; whilst on the other, rise two walls, the first serving as a parapet, the second strengthen- ing the foundations of the road, and preventing them from being washed away by the Lake, on whose bed they rest. NearS. Gin- goux a gorge in the mountains (which are here broken into forms indescribably wild and magnifi- cent) discovers the source of the Amphion, celebrated for the be- fore-named mineral waters, which enrich Evian. Yevey is seen on the opposite shore. S. Gingoux belongs to the Valais ; and the post-house, a good inn which con- tains twenty beds, is situated beau- tifully, near the termination of the Lake, where it loses itself in the Rhone. Immediately after I , leaving S. Gingoux we noticed j some pretty streamlets ; which, as ! they trickle down the rocks’, form 1 A fish, called the Lotte of Meillerie, is I much admired by epicures. themselves into chrystallizations. Pursuing our way to Vionnaz, we found the prospects gradually increase in sublimity as we ap- proached the Alps, at whose feet the road winds in the most pictu- resque manner possible, amongst well-planted orchards enamelled with flowers. From Vionnaz we proceeded to S. Maurice; cross- ing a wooden bridge, curiously constructed, with a roof somewhat resembling such as are used in England to cover farm houses ; and thrown over one of the most noisy and rapid torrents I ever beheld. We then passed a hermit- age, which had long presented itself to view, and particularly attracted our notice, from its ro- mantic situation on a lofty emi- nence crowned by woods, with a majestic mountain forming a vast screen behind them. The Rhone shortly after discovered itself ; adding much to the interest of the scenery ; as its opposite shore presented bold overhanging l ocks, richly adorned with foliage : while before us rose a magnificent stone bridge, two hundred feet in length, and a Roman work; one end being bounded by a tower, now con- verted into a chapel, and the other by a castle, through part of which the road to S. Maurice has evi- dently been cut, and now passes over a draw-bridge. This town is placed in a peculiarly wild and beautiful situation, at the base of a long chain of rocks ; some of which are excavated to form houses. The only antiquity I heard of at S. Maurice, is a cu- rious mosaic pavement. 3 The Theban Legion was massacred near this spot by order of the 2 S. Maurice contains a remarkably good inn, L' Hotel de V Union. E 38 ROUTE TO THE SIMPLON. [ch. n. Emperor Maximian. On our way hence, to Martigny, the country at first presented no striking ob- jects, except the Dent du Midi, and the Dent de Morcles (two Alps which rise seven thousand feet above the level of the Rhone), and at a distance, Mont-Velan and Mont-Yalsoray, which make part of the group of the Grand S. Bernard , and rise more than ten thousand feet above the level of the sea. We had not, however, driven long amidst this Alpine solitude, ere our road conducted us to the bottom of a magnificent Cascade, called The Pissevache ; and formed by a river, named the Salanche, falling from an im- mense height, though not above an hundred feet perpendicularly. This cascade is illuminated, in the forenoon, by the sun ; and displays all the colours of the rain- bow : but after twelve o’clock, these terrestrial rainbows cease ; while the river, broken by its fall, seems transformed into a bril- liant sheet of gauze, with which it veils the rocks from whose sum- mits it rushes. Report says, that, at the top of this cascade, are frequently found trout ; which could in no way get thither, but by leaping, or rather flying upward. Not far distant from the Pisse- vache we passed the Pout du Trient, exhibiting a rivulet that issues from a remarkable opening in the rocks ; the two sides of which, thus divided by the stream, are quite perpendicular, and nearly twelve hundred feet high. Martigny, seated near the en- trance of the great Yalley of the Rhone, where the roads from France, Italy, and Chamouni meet, was a well-built and flou- rishing town, till nearly destroyed by a sudden and dreadful inun- dation of the Dranse ; which oc- curred not long ago. Liberal subscriptions, however, from the benevolent inhabitants of the neighbouring countries, have en- abled the people of Martigny to rebuild several of their houses, which were thrown down and swept away ; and likewise to re- pair other ravages caused by the inundation. There is an old for- tress here, separated from the town by the Dranse, which issues from the adjacent mountain of S. Bernard, and unites its waters with those of the Rhone near this spot. The valley of the R.hone is the most extensive in Switzer- land ; as from the Alps of La Fourche, where it commences, to the Lake of Geneva, where it terminates, is thirty-six leagues. Two excellent wines are made near Martigny, the one called Coquempin , and the other La Marque ; and a great variety of rare plants may also be found in this neighbourhood . 1 On quitting Martigny, to pro- ceed through Riddes to Sion, w r e drove, for a short time, between steril rocks and mountains : but the face of the country soon changed, exhibiting luxuriant pasturages, vineyards, villages, churches, oratories, and remains of ancient castles : indeed, this approach to Sion, through the Yalley of the Rhone, displays the height of cheerful beauty, united w ith almost every object that may be called sublime : the flat ground is intersected with rivers, and 1 La Grande Maison at Martigny is a grod inn; and Le Cigns, though small, is clean and comfortable. 39 ROUTE TO THE SIMPLON. enriched by cultivation ; the near mountains are studded with villas, and other buildings, of a dazzling whiteness ; and the horizon is bounded by Alps of an enormous magnitude, blanched with eternal snow. Sion, anciently Sedunum , and in German Sitten , the capital of the Haut-Valais, and built partly on the right bank of the Rhone, and partly on the river Sitten, is a very old Swiss Bishoprick ; and contains several convents, six churches, a hospital, and an hotel de ville. The town stands on the declivity of three hills ; each being crowned by a Castle : in the lower- most, called Mayoria, or Meyer- bourg, the Bishop usually resides : the second bears the name of Va- leria ; and the third, called Tour- billon, contains portraits of all the Bishops of Sion since the year 300. Several Roman antiquities are discoverable in this town ; among which, and near the great door of the cathedral, is a half- effaced inscription in honour of Augustus. 1 Above Sion, to the right, and sealed on rocks difficult of access, are the castles of Seon and Montorges; objects particu- ! larly calculated to attract the at- tention of a landscape-painter : I and, on the opposite side, in the i Commune of Bremes, is a curi- ous Hermitage, comprehending a I church and cloister, with several cells, all hewn out of the solid rock. Near Sion flows the river Morges, which marks the limits between the Haut and Bas-Vala:s. Fi'om Sion we proceeded to Sierre, through a beautiful coun- try, rich in vineyards and pastur- ages, and watered by the Rhone. SieiTe, seated on the banks of the stream whose name it bears, is one of the prettiest Bourgs of the Haut-Valais : but its inhabitants are particularly liable to goitrous swellings ; owing, it is said, to the unwholesomeness of the water they are compelled to drink. 2 German is the language spoken at Sierre, and throughout the Haut-Valais. After quitting Si- erre, we crossed the Rhone, tra- vei’sed the forest of Finges, and passed the town of Leuck, behind which opens the gorge of the Dala, and part of the lofty and steril Mont-Gemmi. We then drove to Tourtemagne ; 3 on ap- proaching which we were pre- sented with a view of the whole chain of Alps that connects the Simplon and S. Gothard : but the country, as the valley naiTOws, becomes marshy and barren. Within half a mile of the hotels at Tourtemagne, but not in the high-road, is a Water-fall, less magnificent than the Pissevache, though more beautiful in point of situation, and well worth notice. Hence we drove to Viege, in German Visp, or Vispack , stand- ing on the banks of the Visp, a river equal in size with the Rhone, and, beyond the bridge which crosses the Visp, towers the sum- mit of Mont-llose. From Viege * Le Lion d’Or is a good inn; and L Croix Blanche , Ihough less good, is tolcrabl 2 I have observed that women who can *!L a . v y burdens on their heads are general] afflicted with this malady ; not only in tl neighbourhood of the Alps, but in other s tuations where the height of the mounlaii u, comparatively speaking, moderate : aud am therefore inclined to think, that goitrous swellings may sometimes originate from a strain given to the throat by an over-burden carried on the head. 3 In German, Turtniann. Here are two inns, Le Soleil and Le Lion d'Or , the former of which, Ihough small, is clean and com- fortable. 40 ROUTE TO THE SIMPLON. we proceeded to Brigg : for though Glise is the regular post, Brigg (a post-town likewise) is the bet- ter stopping place, and not more than half a mile out of the great road. Soon after quitting Viege, we passed Gambsen, and the en- trance to the valley of Nantz ; crossing a torrent, called the Sal- ' tine, near which the country is anarshy ; and then traversing the he d of the Rhone, till our arrival at Brigg, 1 one of the handsomest towns of the Haut-Valais, and situated opposite to the base of the Simplon ; the lower part of which exhibits luxuriant mea- dows, interspersed with fruit and forest-trees, oratories, and cot- tages ; while the heights are adorned with hermitages, cas- cades, and noble woods of fir. To the left of Brigg is the pretty village of Naters, washed by the Rhone, which descends from the summits of the Fourche and the sombre valleys of the Axe. This river receives, in the vicinity of Brigg, the waters of the Sal- line, which come from the Sim- plon, together with those of Kelchback, which descend from the Belp-Alp and the Blatten. The adjacent mountains abound with deep dells ; and, to the north, rise the rocks of Nesthorn, and part of the Upper-Glacier of Aletsch. In order to appropriate an en- tire day to the passage of the Simplon, anciently called Mons \ Ccepionis , or Sempronii , and one 1 The Post-House at llrigg is a com- fortable inn; as is V Hotel d’Anglelerre. 2 As this is the shortest practicable route from German Switzerland and the Haut- Valais into the Milanese, it has always been the track pursued by the Milan courier, though frequently at the peril of his life; for the earthquake of 1755, which destroyed Lisbon, nearly blocked up this passage of the [CH.II. of the ioftiest of the Italian Alps, We slept at Brigg ; and set out with the dawn next morning, equally favoured in point of weather as during our expedition to Mont- Blanc. The journey, either from Glise or Brigg, over the Simplon to Domo-D’Ossola, a distance of fourteen leagues, generally occu- pies about twelve hours. The new military road, planned by Napoleon, in 1801, was finished in 1805, at the joint expense of the kingdoms of France and Ita- ly ; 2 its breadth throughout is twenty-five Paris feet ; the num- ber of bridges, thrown across the rocks, is fifty ; and the number of grottoes (chiefly hewn out of so- lid masses of granite), five: and so gradual, on both sides of the mountain, is the inclination of this wonderful road, that to drag the wheels, even of heavy carri- ages, is needless. The work was conducted, on the side of the Haut-Valais, by French Engi- neers ; and, on the Italian side, by the Cavaliere Giovanni Fab- broni; who, though long distin- guished for devoting his eminent abilities to the service of his coun- try, 3 has, in this instance, ex- ceeded himself ; as, beside every other impediment, he had Hercu- lean difficulties to surmount even in the soil ; for he was compelled to pierce through, and blow up the hardest and most refractory rocks existing ; while the French artificers, generally speaking, met with no obstacle, except Alps; so that Napoleon found it needful to employ three thousand men between three and four years in constructing the new road. 3 To this gentleman Florence owes the celebrated anatomical wax-work which en- riches the Museum of Natural History in that city : though the invention was ascribed to the Cav, Fontana. PASSAGE OF THE SIMPLON. 41 masses of slate, in many places already decomposed . 1 This road is the only passage of the Alps which human labour has made practicable for heavy waggons and artillery : and, when we contemplate the stupendous height of the Simplon, the nu- merous and appalling precipices with which it abounds, the im- petuous torrents which deluge its sides, and the tremendous ava- lanches by which its woods are frequently rooted up, and its rocks overthrown, we cannot but ac- knowledge that men, who, in defi- ance of obstructions such as these, could form a road exempt even from the appearance of danger, capable of braving the most furi- ous storms, resisting the giant hand of Time, and conducting human beings, cattle, and every kind of carriage, quickly and safely, during all seasons of the year, through regions of eternal snow, deserve, in point of genius, to be ranked not only with, but even above, the ancient Romans ; whose works of this description, surprising as they are, can, in no instance, vie with the descent into Italy, from the cloud-capped vil- lage of Simplon to the rich vale of Domo D’Ossola- — and yet, to the shame of the nineteenth cen- tury, nations inimical to France attempted, at the close of the last dreadful war, to destroy the para- pet-walls, and burn the bridges — in short, to annihilate the road — • happily, however, these acts of barbarism have hitherto done no material mischief; but, unless the Glacier gallery and grotto be cleared of snow towards the com- mencement of every summer, as \ The quantity of gun-powder nscd in Mowing up the rocks. to torm the road on the was the practice during the reigti of Napoleon, this eighth wonder of the world, this universal benefit to Europe, will ultimately be ren- dered useless. But to return to the description of our journey : after taking a cross-road from Brigg, to get into the great military route, we pass- ed, on the right, one of the first works of the ascent to Simplon ; a bridge thrown over the Saltine ; and consisting of a lofty and beau- tiful single arch, covered, at the top, to preserve from rain the tim- ber of which it is composed. We then passed on the left a chapel, with several small oratories lead- ing to it ; and began to ascend, by bold and beautiful windings, to a dark forest of firs ; the openings of which presented us with views of the Y alley of the Rhone, encircled by snow-crowned Alps ; their gi- gantic Empress, Mont Blanc, proudly towering above them all ; and, in consequence of her enor- mous height, appearing close to ^tis, though really far distant. En- grossed by the sublimity of the scene, we continued to ascend, almost imperceptibly to ourselves ; till, on traversing precipices whose bases are washed by a roaring torrent, we discovered, with sur- prise, that we had attained an eminence which hindered us from distinguishing the sound of its brawl. This part of the road is cut through crumbling rocks; and in order to prevent the loose frag- ments above from falling upon travellers, broad paths are made in the upper part of these rocks, to catch whatever may be thrown down, either by tempests, or cas- Italian side of the Simplon, is said to have been 17,500 pounds. S PASSAGE OF THE SIMPLON. [ck. tt. cades, or avalanches ; while the road itself is supported by a strong wall of granite, varying in height according to the inequalities of the ground upon which it rests ; and in some places measuring two hundred feet. After reaching what is called the first Gallery (though in fact, the whole road might properly be denominated a continued series of serpentine galleries and grot- toes, rising one above the other, and united by stupendous arches of the most chaste and elegant construction ;) we crossed the Kanter on a bridge eighty feet in height ; and so built, as to be in- capable of receiving any injury from the annual melting of the winter-snow ; there being, at cer- tain distances, cavities, through which the water discharges itself, without hurting the work : and this judicious plan is likewise pur- sued with respect to all the para- pets and foundation-walls. Fine cascades and beautiful glens alternately presented them- selves to view, till we reached, in four hours from the time of our departure from Brigg, the third Refuge; where we breakfasted. These Refuges, placed at short distances from each other, in the rriost exposed situations on the Simplon, are small buildings, meant to shelter men, cattle, and carriages, in case of sudden storms ; and numbered “ 1st Re- fuge,” “ 2d Refuge,” etc. ; an appellation particularly well cho- sen, as its meaning is the same in almost every modern language. After passing the third Refuge, we observed an infinite variety of 1 The Cantonniers, instituted by Napo- leon to keep this route in repair, have been cruelly reduced in number by the king of Alpine flowers growing amidst lawns of turf, short and soft as velvet ; we then crossed the brid- ges of Oesback and the Saltine (near the former of which is a magnificent cascade) ; and, soon after, entered a Grotto thirty paces in length ; leaving to our left the Glacier of Kaltwasser, from which descend four cascades, whose waters traverse the route, in aqueducts of a masterly con- struction, and then precipitate themselves into chasms below. Continuing to ascend through easy, bold, and beautiful sinuosi- ties, we reached an eminence ex- posed to violent gusts of wind, where trees cease to flourish, and flowers no longer enamel the earth ; and where a recent ava- lanche has rooted up and blighted firs and larches, and suspended them on each other, over the yawning abyss underneath, in a manner we shuddered even to contemplate. Not f ar distant from this picture of desolation is the Glacier Grotto, fifty paces in length ; on coming out of which, we ascended to the most elevated point of the whole passage ; and found ourselves on every side surrounded by eternal snow. Here, and here only, that is immediately previous to entering, and immediately after quitting the Glacier Grotto, the road was bad ; not, however, in consequence of any radical defect; but merely because the Canton * niers had neglected to clear the snow away. 1 On the right of this spot we discovered, beneath us, the ancient Hospice, now peo- pled by Monks belonging to the Sardini fc although the tax imposed for their maintenance is still paid at the barrier. Yoi- turiers pay ten francs per horse. cu. ii.] PASSAGE OF Grand S. Bernard ; and, on the left, above us, the magnificent foundations of the new Cotivent and Barracks. We then passed the bridge of Senkelbach ; and descended to the village of Sim- plon • noticing, on our way, a vast reservoir of water; one part of which flows down, into Italy, while the other irrigates France, by forming a ramification of the Rhone. From the third Refuge to the sixth, which stands at the most elevated point of the passage, near the Barrier, we were two hours in going ; and thence, to the inn at Simplon, half an hour. This inn is situated three thou- sand two hundred and sixteen Paris feet above the level of the Mediterranean sea : but neither here, nor even while passing the Glacier Grotto, and the heights beyond it (which are four thou- sand six hundred and ninety Paris feet above the level of the Medi- terranean), did I experience the slightest sensation of cold : the day, however (as has been al- ready noticed), was especially fa- vourable; affording us continual sunshine, without one gust of j wind ; — agremens seldom met with by the Alpine traveller. After dining on delicious trout | at the village of Simplon, 1 a little hamlet encircled by the summits ol the enormous Alp whose name it bears, we set out to descend into Italy, through a pass which exhibits scenes it would be vain to attempt particularizing, as they beggar description. The commencement of the de- scent exhibits, on each side, lofty THE SIMPLON. 43 and barren rocks, with a consb derable space between them ; and, on the left, a thundering torrent : but, soon after quitting the vil- lage of Simplon, we found these rocks gradually approach each other, becoming perpendicular, and scarcely leaving sufficient space for the road. Having crossed the bridges of Lowibach and Kronbach, we ar- rived at Steig, where the union of the Kronbach and the Quirna, which descend the glacier of La- vin through a gorge in the rocks to the right, form the river Ve- dro, or IJiveTio, whose wild and impetuous course the road fol- lows, till within a short distance of Domo-D’Ossola. About a league and a half from Steig is an iso- lated inn ; soon after passing which we entered a narrow ra- vine, and crossed the river seve- ral times, by means of stupendous bridges, till we came to the third Grotto, eighty paces in length ; after quitting which, we approach- ed the magnificent cascade of Fris- sinone; whose waters precipitate themselves from a rock so high that they seem lost in aether ere they reach the foaming bed of the Diverio which receives them. After passing this cascade, we en- tered the fourth Grotto, deemed the most wonderful work of the Simplon ; it being two hundred and two paces in length, lofty in proportion, and cut, with exqui- site taste and skill, through solid rocks of granite. Scarcely had we passed this grotto, before a sudden turn of the road presented us with another cascade, formed by the torrent which issues from 1 The inn here, Ls Soleil , is particularly pood : and travellers are, I believe, likewise received at L'Uosph-c. 44 NORTHERN ITALY — LAGO MAGGIORE. the gorge of Zwischbergen, and falls perpendicularly, and with such clamorous violence close to the traveller, that, startled and alarmed by the scene, we felt for a moment as if it would be im- possible to proceed with safety. Below the gloomy village of Gondo is a chapel which marks the Ita- lian confine ; and further still are the Italian hamlets of S. Marco and Isella ; at the latter of which travellers are visited by Milanese custom-house officers, for the pur- pose of obtaining money. After quitting these sombre hamlets, ■we entered the still more sombre gorge of Yeselles, empaled by perpendicular rocks, from whose summits fall cascades sufficient to supply whole rivers; and echoing with the tremendous roar of the Diverio, whose waters rush furi- ously through enormous fragments of dissevered rocks, sometimes exhibiting all the colours of the rainbow, and at others boiling and foaming into gulfs, which can only be compared to the Chaos of Milton and the Iiiferno of Dante. This narrow, awful, and appalling gorge extends to Dive- dro, a place said to stand at the height of one thousand seven hundred and eighty-two Paris feet above the level of the Mediterra- nean sea ; but situated on a fer- tile, and indeed a pleasant spot, 1 Divedro contains a tolerable inn. 2 The Hotel de la Ville , and The Hotel d’Espagne. I have passed the Simplon twice; namely, in May, 1817; and in Jane, 1819: the first time travelling en voilurier, the second lime going post; and the number of hours em- ployed in crossing this Alp, was both times precisely the same. From Brigg to the village of Simplon (as I have already mentioned), we were six hours and a half in ascending; and thence to Domo-D’Ossola five hours and a half in descending :from Domo-D’Ossola to the village of Simplon we were seven hours in ascending ; and thence to Brigg five hours in [CH. II. notwithstanding the gloomy as- pect of the mountains by which it is encompassed . 1 From Dive- dro we descended into another equally wild and narrow glen, called Yal-Divedro; crossing two bridges, and driving through the fifth and If st Grotto, eighty paces in length. We then proceeded to Crevola, once more crossing the Diverio on a magnificent bridge, sixty paces in length, and deem- ed a masterpiece of architecture. Hence, as we approached Domo- D’Ossola, the rocks and moun- tains gradually receded, till the base of the Simplon presented a landscape thickly studded with villages and vineyards ; and the rich and extensive plains of Italy opened to our view ; forming a delicious and most striking con- trast to the sublime and terrific solitude from which we had so recently emerged. The descent, from the village of Simplon to Domo-D’Ossola, is usually accomplished in five hours and a half ; and the latter town contains two good inns . 2 Wishing to visit the Borromean Islands, on our way to Milan, we embarked at Baveno , 3 on the Lago Maggiore, previously pur- suing the great military road (which extends to Milan), and passing two fine bridges, opposite to the latter of which is the Yal- descending. The most favourable season for passing the Simplon is between the middle of June aud the end of October. During winter, carriages are usually dismSunted, and put into Traineaux, if the snow be deep. 3 It is possible to embark at Fariolo, the post previous to Baveno; but ihe latter |is the more convenient place; because boats are al- ways in waiting there to convey Travellers to the Borromean Islands and the Lake of Como : the price of a boat, for the former expedition, being four livres per rower; and the lime re- quisite for seeing the islands five or six hours. The un at Baveno is tolerably good. CH. n.] LAGO MAGGIORE. 45 ley of Mont-Rose, an Alp very little inferior in height to Mont- Blanc . 1 The Lago Maggiore, sometimes called Lago Locarno, and ancient- ly Verbanus , is reputed to be about fifty-six Italian miles in length, about six in breadth, and, toward the centre, about eighty fathoms deep. The picture pre- sented by this Lake, is enchant- ing ; its banks being adorned by forest-trees, olives, and vineyards, interspersed with hamlets, white as snow, and enriched with villas and other edifices, remarkable for the variety and elegance of their construction, while, on its bosom, rise three little Islands, two of which contain palaces and gar- dens belonging to the family of S. Carlo Borromeo. Isola Bella generally strikes travellers as the most beautiful of these islands . 2 Half a mile distant from Isola Bella, toward the west, is Isola Pescatori ; and about a mile dis- tant, toward the north, Isola Ma- dre. The passage from Isola Bella to Isola Madre seldom occupies more time than half an hour. The latter, at which we landed first, is about half a league from the shore, and consists of four gardens, or rather terraces, one above the other, embellished with luxuriant flowers, shrubs, and fo- rest-trees; and crowned by a Pa- lace, where the objects best worth notice are — a Madonna and Child, with other pictures, all painted on marble, and attributed to Pe- 1 T ic valley of Mont - Rose possesses gold-mmes; and the grapes here are trained round trees whose branches are so managed as to resemble baskets. 2 Tins island contains an inn furnished y itb clean beds, and where good dinners may he procured at four francs a head. 3 This artist, after having murdered his v/ 1 1 e, in order to espouse a prettier woman, oak r elugc here. ' ’ rugino — S. Thomas Aquinas, as- cribed to Guercino — S. Geronimo, ascribed to Correggio — Erasmus and Belisarius, ascribed to Schi- done — a painting on marble, sup- osed to have been done by Al- arm — the Prodigal Son, ascribed to Guercino — a portrait, ascribed to Titian — a Smith’s Shop, by Bassano— -the Madonna, Our Sa- viour, etc. ascribed to Giordano — Landscapes, by Tempesta 3 — four cattle pieces, together with some paintings attributed to Gio- vanni Belino, Andrea del Sarto, and Annibale Caracci. We proceeded next to Isola Bella, which consists of eight ter- races, one above the other, car- peted with odoriferous flowers, enriched with exotics, refreshed by fountains, shaded with forest- trees, and crowned by a noble palace, which contains Paintings by Tempesta, a fino Bust of S. Carlo Borromeo, by Franchi ; 4 and a large subterranean apart- ment, fitted up to imitate a series of grottoes, in a manner equally singular and tasteful; and which, during hot weather, must be de- licious. After viewing this abode of Calypso, we embarked for Sesto- Calende; landing, however, by the way, at Arona ; and then walking about three-quarters of a mile, through a beautiful country, to see the celebrated colossal Statue of S. Carlo Borromeo, which was executed, in bronze, by Zonelli, and measures one hundred and twelve feet in height, reckoning 4 S. Carlo Borromeo is universally acknow- ledged to Lave been a peculiarly benevolent character; one of Iiis family was as noto- riously wicked; and the rest, though worthy, in the common acceptation of the word, were not in any respect distinguished: a circum- stance which occasioned the follow ing remark, — “That one Borromeo belonged to Heaven, another lo Hell, aud the remainder to Earth. ‘ SESTO-CALENDE. 46 [ch. ir. the pedestal. This statue is erect- ed on a hill that overlooks Arona, the birth-place of S. Carlo, who is represented as giving his bene- diction, with one hand, to the mariners of the lake, and holding a book with the other. This is one of the largest statues now ex- isting in Italy ; and so enormous are its dimensions, that the head alone will contain four persons seated round a table, and one per- son may stand in the nose. At Sesto, we rejoined our car- riages ; which went by land to Belgirata 1 and Arona, and then crossed the Ticino, in a pont-vo - lant > at the entrance of the first- named town. The road between Baveno and Sesto exhibits an- other fine work of the Simplon, walls of an immense height, which prevent the waters of the Lake from overflowing the coun- try. — Sesto-Calende is beautifully situated on the Ticino, at the commencement of the plains of Lombardy ; and persons, who like water-carriage, may go from this town, or even from Baveno, or Fariolo, to Milan, in the boats of the Lago Maggiore : 2 we, how- ever, proceeded by land, through a delightful country, to Somma ; where, close to the great road, grows a cypress of extraordinary magnitude, and, according to tra- dition, planted previous to the birth of Our Saviour. Scipio’s first battle with Hannibal took place near Somma. Hence, to Gallarate, we passed over heaths adorned by fine woods interspers- ed with beautiful broom ; and be- tween Gallarate and Castellanza, part of the country is of the same description, except that it exhi- bits pretty paths cut through un- derwood of chesnut and oak. On approaching Ro, we drove be- tween corn-fields, meadows, ham- lets, and villas, to the Church of Nostra Signora de' Miracoli ; built after the designs of Tibaldi, and adorned with good paintings, by Procaccino, etc. The inside of this church does honour to its architect ; and the facade, erected by Pollach, is adorned with two bassi-rilievi ; one of which repre- sents the Salutation, and the other the Presentation in the Temple. The country between Ro and Milan is flat, well cultivated, and beautifully adorned by acacia and tulip-trees, which flourish here with peculiar luxuriance. But the greatest ornament of the ap- proach to Miian, the Triumphal Arch, intended as a termination to the avenue of the Simplon, on one side, and as a decoration to the Forum, on the other, is, alas, unfinished ! The commencement of this magnificent work, how- ever, particularly merits atten- tion. Four gigantic columns, each hewn out of a single block of marble, were designed to sup- port its two facades, the bases of which alone are completed ; one side being adorned with beautiful figures in basso -rilievo, repre- senting France, Clio, Calliope, and Italy ; and the other side, embellished with bassi-rilievi , almost equally beautiful, and re- presenting Hercules, Mars, Mi- nerva, and Apollo; while, in sur- rounding outhouses, are deposit- ed still finer bassi-rilievi , rela- tive to the achievements of Na- 1 A good inn here, V Albergo Borromeo. 2 Public boals go from Seslo to Milan every morning, between the hours of five and seven, and take Passengers at one Paul a-head. Private boats, large enough to contain a car- riage, may be hired at Baveno for twenty- eight, or, at most, thirty francs, to go down the Lago Maggiore to Sesto. MILAN. CH. II.] poleon ; together with capitals of pillars, and other architectu- ral decorations, highly credit- able to the talents of Cagnola, under whose orders this work was begun. Milan, in Italian Milano, and anciently denominated Mediola- num (supposed to have been founded by the Gauls 590 years before the Christian era), is seat- ed on a peculiarly fertile spot, between the rivers Adda and Ti- cino, and intersected by three na- vigable canals, one of which ex- tends to Pavia. Milan contains about 130,000 inhabitants; and may be called a handsome town, though its buildings, in point of architecture, are, generally speak- ing, faulty : its climate, during winter, is very cold ; during sum- mer, extremely hot ; and fre- quently damp and unwholesome during autumn and spring. 1 Its Duomo , or Cathedral, the largest church in Italy, S. Peter’s ex- cepted, is a Gothic edifice of white marble, begun in the year 1386: but the exterior part was left unfinished till the reign of Napoleon, who ordered it to be completed, after the designs of Amati ; and though much had been accomplished, much still remained undone, when the Em- peror of Austria resumed the government of the Milanese : it is said, however, that Napoleon’s plan will still be followed. ; This cathedral, in length 449 Paris feet, in breadth 275, and in height 238, to the top of the cupola, is divided into five parts, by an hundred and sixty immense columns of marble, and paved with the same mate- rial. The interior ornament of 47 the principal door is supported by two columns of granite, call- ed Migliaruolo, and found in the beds of the neighbouring lakes and torrents. The interior and exterior distribution of the choir were executed under the orders of Pellegrini; the Sarcophagus of Gian-Giacomo de’ Medici was designed by Buonaroti ; and the bronze ornaments were made by Leoni. The Statue of S. Bartho- lomew is by Agrati; the Cupo- la, situated in the centre of the choir, is by Brunellesco ; and, im- mediately underneath, in a sub- terranean chapel, most sumptu- ously decorated, rest the mortal remains of S. Carlo Borromeo, enclosed by a crystal sarcophagus adorned with silver gilt : his coun- tenance, part of the nose except- ed, is well preserved; his robes, crosier, and mitre, are superb ; and silver bassi-rilievi , executed by Rubini, after the designs of Ce- rano, and representing the great features of the exemplary life of S. Carlo Borromeo, embellish the walls of this chapel. A staircase, consisting of 468 steps, leads to the top of the cathedral ; and it is impossible to form a just idea of the exterior decorations of this immense and venerable mar- ble pile, without ascending to its roofs ; where alone the fret- work, carving, and sculpture, can be viewed to advantage. The three finished sides of the exte- rior walls are covered with bas- si-rilievi , statues, and groups of figures ; several of them well exe- cuted : while every spire, or nee- dle, is crowned with a statue, ra- ther larger than life ; and among these, there appears to be more 1 The irrigation of the rice-fields, with which the Milanese alwunds, contributes to render the air, at times, insalubrious. 48 MILAN. r €H . n> than one likeness of Napoleon . 1 * The Church of S. Alessandro possesses considerable merit with respect to architecture, together with good frescos in its cupola ; and its high altar and Ciborio 5 * are remarkably handsome. The Church of S. Lorenzo , an octagon edifice (adjoining to which is a building that resembles an ancient bath) , is embellish ed by handsome columns, whose bases appear to have been originally the capitals of pillars, belonging, as tradition reports, to a Temple of Hercules, which once stood near this spot ; and, before the church of S. Lorenzo, is the only Specimen of ancient Roman ar- chitecture now remaining at Mi- lan ; namely, a Portico, support- ed by sixteen beautiful fluted co- lumns of the Corinthian order, with an entablature, which bears an inscription in honour of the Emperor Veras. The Refectory of the sup- pressed Convent of S. Maria delle Grazie is embellished with Leona: do da Vinci’s celebrated fresco of the Last Supper; and although this masterpiece has suf- fered cruelly from time and ill treatment, it is still in sufficiently good preservation to be highly in- teresting . 3 * The College of Br era, now the Gymnasium, or Palace of Arts and Sciences, contains a fine col- lection of pictures, among which are the following: First room. (Frescos) three boys playing on musical instruments, by Gauden- i Cathedrals, in Italy, are always Open from sun -rise till sun-set; other churches are usuallj opened at six or seven in the morn- ing, shut at twelve; opened again at three in the afternoon, and shut at five or six. From the middle of Lent till Easter, the finest altar-pieces are covered. The common fee, to the Sacristan of a church, is from one to two pauls. Palaces are usually shown from zio Ferrario. Second room. The Magdalene and Our Saviour, by Lodovico Caracci — two pictures of Saints, by Procaccino — Our Saviour bearing his Cross, by Da- niello Crespi — S. Sebastiano, by M. A. Caravaggio — Our Saviour and the Woman of Samaria, by Annibale Caracci-— Abraham dis- missing Hagar, by Guercinoi 1 ! — The Madonna, Our Saviour, God the Father, etc. by Albano — Head of Our Saviour, by Guer- cino ! — The Madonna, Our Sa- viour, S. John, and S. Petronio (the patron of Bologna), by ditto — a Dance of Winged Loves, by Albano!! — the Last Supper, by Huberts — the Woman detected in Adultery, by Agostino Caracci — the Ascension of the Madonna, by Paris Bor done — the Ascension of Our Saviour, by Giulio Ro- mano — -the Nativity, by ditto — * the Baptism of Our Saviour, by Paris Bordone — Our Saviour dead, by Salmeggia — S. Peter and S. Paul, by Guido ! — First division of the second room. Saints ador- ing the Gross, by Tintoretto — the Madonna, Our Saviour, and Saints, by Savoldi — the Woman detecled in Adultery, by Palma Vecchio — Our Saviour supping with the Pharisee, by Paolo Ve- ronese — S. Francesco, by Palma il Giovane — the Marriage in Cana of Galilee, by Paolo Veronese — Our Saviour dead, by Tintoretto — The Madonna, Our Saviour, and Saints, by Giulo Romano ! — Our Saviour dead, by Benvenuto Garofalo ! — Second division. Se- nine or ten in the morning till twelve, and from three till five in the afternoon. The common fee, at a palace, is from three to five pauls, according to the size of the party. 2 The tabernacle wherein the Host is kept. 3 The late Viceroy of Italy had a fine copy taken of this fresco, and did every thing in his power to preserve the original. MILAN. GH. II.] 49 veral curious old pictures.— Third division. Portrait of Solomon— ditto of Ann. Caracci — ditto of Procaccino — the Madonna and Saints, by Pompeo Battoni— S. Girolamo, by Subleyras — Souls delivered from Purgatory, by Sal- vator Rosa! — a large Landscape, by N. Poussin— ditto, by Salvator Rosa — the Madonna, our Saviour, and Saints, by Luca Giordano.— Third room. The Madonna, Our Saviour, and S. Francesco, by Vandyck — the Head of a Monk, by Velasquez ! Fourth room. The Madonna, Our Saviour, etc. in the first manner of Correggio — the Marriage of the Madonna, in the first manner of Raphael — Our Saviour dead, by Giovanni Bellino ; and a Sketch, by Andrea del Sarto. The Gymnasium contains casts of all the finest statues of anti- quity, a particularly well furnish- ed Observatory, a good Library, and a Botanic Garden. The Ambrosial Library , found- ed by Cardinal Federigo Borro- meo, contains above thirty-five thousand printed volumes, toge- ther with between fourteen and fifteen thousand precious manu- scripts, among which are those of Leonardo da Vinci, accompanied by his drawings— a Virgil, with annotations by Petrarca, in his own hand-writing — a Pliny— a Plato and a Cicero of the second century — and a Josephus written on papyrus, and written on both sides of each leaf. This library likewise contains the following paintings: — A Holy Family, by Titian — Sketches, by Pietro da Cortona — the original Sketch of the School of Athens, by Ra- phael, well preserved, and most valuable ! ! — a fine copy of Leo- nardo da Vinci’s painting of the Last Supper — a Sketch, by Ra- phael, of part of the Battle of Constantine ! - a Holy Family, by Bernardino Luino, the contem- porary and rival of Leonardo da Vinci ! — the Head of Our Sa- viour, by Luino — Our Saviour dead, by Titian — Sketches of the Last Judgment, by Buonaroti— Sketches, by Polidoro da Cara- vaggio, and other great masters — a Miniature of the Celestial Re- gions, by Albano ! ! — and a fresco, by Luino, representing our Sa- viour crowned with thorns. The Great Hospital and the Lazaretto merit notice ; the latter is just beyond the eastern gate of the city. The Marengo Gate , a simple and elegant specimen of Ionic architecture, bears the following inscription: “ Paci Populoruni SospitceT The Amphitheatre , situated near the Forum, is a magnifi- cent building, erected, after the designs of Canonica, and large enough to contain 36,000 specta- tors. The pulvinare, and the principal entrance of this edifice, especially deserve attention. The Theatre of La Scala, built after the designs of Pier- marini, is deemed, with respect to architecture, the most beauti- ful opera-house in Europe; and, except the great theatre at Parma, and that of S. Carlo at Naples, it is the most spacious. The stage decorations also are particularly spleiidid and classical, and the orchestra is, generally speaking, the best in Italy : but the cir- cumstance most creditable to this, and indeed to every other theatre on the Continent, is that perfect decorum which enables ladies (though unattended), to go, re- turn ; and eyen walk, from box to F 50 MILAN. box, without the slightest chance of receiving an insult. Milan contains other theatres; namely, the Canobiana, shaped jike La Scala, but not so large ; the Teatro Re ; and the Car- dano, built by Canonica. The principal promenades are the Ramparts, the Corso, and the Esplanade, between the town and the Forum. 1 The environs of Milan boast a considerable number of handsome villas, among which is that which was presented by the citizens to Napoleon. Monza , about three leagues north of Milan, likewise contains a superb royal residence, built after the designs of Piermarini ; and another, called Peluccaj ce- lebrated for its stud of horses. At Monza Charlemagne was crowned Ling of Lombardy; and in the Cathedral there is the ancient crown of the Lombard kings, com- monly called “ The Iron Crown,” because its inside is lined with some of that metal, said to be composed of the nails with which Our Saviour was fastened to the cross. The outside of this dia- dem is gold, studded with pre- cious stones. 2 On quitting Milan we took the Bologna road, traversing a luxuri- ant country, which abounds with fields of rice, and every other kind of grain, vineyards, and stream- lets, for the purposes of irriga- tion, and exhibits not a single inch of fallow land ; this last, however, is a thing rarely seen in Italy, where the husbandman jio sooner reaps one crop than 1 Among the principal hotels are, The "Albergo Reale , The Albergo della Qran- Bretagna , The Croce di Malta, I Tre Re, and 11 Pozzo. 2 From Milan it is easy to make an ex- cursion to Pavia, either by land dr water; [CH. II. another succeeds, to the number of four or five in a twelvemonth. The road is, generally speaking, flat, and bordered with towns and villages, so far as Lodi, which stands on an eminence, near the Adda, is well built, and contains about 12,000 inhabit- ants. The most remarkable of its churches, L'lncoronata, was erected according to the de- sign of Bramante, and adorned with frescos and paintings in oil by Callisto, the pupil of Titian : but what chiefly renders this town interesting is that, at the bridge of Lodi, Napoleon gained one of his most memorable victories. 3 The little province, of which Lodi is the capital, usually gives food to 30,000 cows; and its cheese, im- properly called Parmesan, is most excellent. Hence we proceeded to a troublesome Austrian cus- tom-house, near the Po ; and then crossed that fine river, on a pont-volant , to Piacenza. This town, seated in a rich and plea- sant country, contains several ob- jects of interest ; namely, the Ca- thedral and the Church of La Madonna della Campagna , both adorned with good paintings, the cupola of the former being by Guercino, the angles by Frances- coni, and the ceiling above the great altar, and frescos behind it, by Lodovico Caracci and Pro- caccino. This church is likewise adorned with a picture of S. Cor* rado, by Lanfranco, and another of S. Francois Xavier, by Fiamin- go ; the Angels, in fresco, which surround the latter, being like- wise by Fiamingo; and the As- the latter town being only seven leagues distant from the former. 3 From Lodi there is a road, by Cremona and Mantua, to Bologna; and to the east of Lodi is the road through Brescia and Verona tc Venice. BORGO— S. DONINO— PARMA. 51 ch. ir.] cension, on the ceiling of one of the chapels, by the same master. The Church of the Canonici re- golari di S. Agostino, designed by Vignola; the Town-hall, by the same architect ; and two equestrian Statues , the one re- presenting Ranucolo, and the other Alessandro Farnese, by Francesco Moca, also merit no- i tice. Piacenza, though large, is ! built entirely of brick, not even its palaces excepted; it contains a pretty theatre and good hotels . 1 Here commences the ancient Via - Flaminia, constructed during the consulate of Lepidus and Flami- i nius, and leading to the Via- Emilia in Romagna ; and not far hence flows that memorable tor-' | rent, the Trebbia, whose immense bed travellers drive through on their way to S. Giovanni, in the road to Tortona. At the distance of half a mile from Piacenza, we crossed abridge thrown over the Po, having, to our right, the lofty mountains of the Apennine, with villages and farms at their base; and to our left a plain, watered by the above- named river. Midway to Fioren- zuola we traversed, on a stone- bridge, a torrent called the Nura, and thence drove through the bed of the Larda, always dry in sum- mer, and provided with a narrow bridge, over which carriages pass when the stream is s woln by winter rain. We then proceeded through Fiorenzuola, a small town where, however, there are good inns, to Borgo-San-Donino, seated on the Slirone, and not far distant from what are supposed to be the ruins of the ancient Julia Chrysopolis . Ihe cathedral at S. Donino merits notice, as does the edifice convert- ed, by order of Napoleon, into an Asylum for the Poor . 2 A few miles from this town stands Cas- tel-Guelfo, celebrated for having given its name to the Guelfs, whose strife with the Ghibelines bathed Italy in blood. Beyond Castel- Guelfo we passed, on a pont-vo - lant 3 the Taro, after heavy rains a dangerous torrent, but over which a magnificent bridge, be- gun by Napoleon, is now on the point of being finished by Maria- Louisa. After traversing a rich and beau- tiful valley, adorned with villages and vineyards, we arrived at Par- ma, a handsome town, which de- rives its appellation from the river that runs through it. The walls of Parma are between three and four miles round, and the inhabi- tants are said to amount to thirty- five thousand ; but, nevertheless, this city looks deserted and me- lancholy. The Cathedral 3 built, like all the other public edifices, of brick, is a spacious Gothic structure, containing a high altar, richly decorated with precious marbles, and a cupola finely painted by Correggio, but cruelly injured. Over the organ are the families of Correggio and Parmigianino, painted by themselves, and tole- rably well preserved ; and on the sides of the principal door are portraits of those great artists, likewise painted by themselves. This church also contains a mo- nument to the memory of Pe- tra rc a. The Church of S. Giovanni Evangelista , built with majestic simplicity, is embellished with frescos by Correggio and Parmi- gianino ; the former of whom has c ^ tbergo delle Tre Ganasce, and 2 S. Donino contains two inns , — La Croce o. Marco. Bianca , and The Alberto del Angelo. PARMA— REGGIO. 52 [CH. II, represented, in the cupola, Our Saviour ascending to Heaven, and the Apostles witnessing his ascen- sion ! The Stoccata, built after the design of Bramante, does honour to the taste of that distinguished architect, and is adorned with fine paintings, namely, Moses break- ing the Tables of the Law, by Parmigianino ; three Sibyls, by ditto; another Sibyl, by Mazzuo- lo, and frescos in the cupola by Correggio. The Convento delle Monache di S. Paolo contains a room a- dorned with frescos by Correggio, and deemed the most beautiful work of its kind he ever executed: the subject seems to be Diana tri- umphant, accompanied by Genii. The Royal Academy contains a fine collection of pictures, a- mong which are the Adoration of the Magi, by Agostino Caracci—* the Ascension, by Raphael— the Marriage of the Madonna, by Procaccino — the Deposition from the Cross, by Schidone — the Mar- tyrdom of two Saints, by Correg- gio — the Repose in Egypt, by ditto — the Descent from the Cross, by ditto — the Holy Family, by Parmigianino — a fresco, repre- senting the Madonna and Our Sa- viour, by Correggio ! ! ! — a fresco, representing the Madonna crown- ed, by Annibale Caracci ! ! — and S. Girolamo, by Correggio. The Library belonging to the Academy is adorned with a fresco by Correggio, representing the Madonna crowned; and another room contains the death of the Madonna, by Lodovico Caracci. The great Theatre , designed by Vignola, and built of wood, is the most spacious, and, in point of architecture, the most perfect edifice of its kind in Italy : it contains, with ease, five thousand spectators (some authors say, nine thousand), all of whom can see every thing which passes on the stage, and hear every syllable spoken by the actors, even though uttered in a whisper. This fine specimen of architecture, how- ever, is now so entirely out of re- air, that a few years may pro- ably reduce it to a heap of ruins. Adjoining to the great Theatre, is another, built after the design of Bernini, and, comparatively speaking, small, as it does not hold more than two thousand spectators. Parma contains good hotels. 1 Just beyond one of the city gates is the Palazzo - Giardino , embellished with fine frescos by Agostino Caracci : nine miles dis- tant, on the way to Casal-Mag- giore, is Colorno } a large palace, adorned with two statues ; one representing Hercules, the other Bacchus ; and both found in the Orto Farnese, at Rome : and thir- teen leagues distant, at the base of the Appennine, are the ruins of Velleia , a Roman municipal city, which was buried by the sudden fall of a mountain sup- posed to have been undermined by a subterraneous watercourse. This melancholy event took place in the fourth century ; and from thenumber of human bones found at Velleia, when it was excavated in 1760, there seems reason to fear the inhabitants had no time to escape. 2 From Parma we traversed a rich and beautiful country to S. Ilario ; passing, on quitting the Duchy of Parma, the Lenza on 1 La Pasta is the best. 2 Velleia is much nearer to Fiorenzuola than to Parma. MODENA. CH. II.] a magnificent bridge ; and then crossing the Crostolo, on another bridge, previous to our arrival at Reggio. This town, anciently Regium Lepidi , and seated on the Crostolo, is said to contain nearly 16,000 inhabitants. The Cathe- dral here merits notice; as one of its chapels contains good pic- tures : but what particularly ren- ders this spot interesting, is its having given birth to that greatest of Italian poets, Ariosto : indeed, the soil seems to have been pro- lific of genius, for between Reg- gio and Modena we passed within a league of Correggio, the birth- place of the great painter who bears its name. Reggio contains three hotels. 1 Driving through Rubiera, 2 where travellers who arrive after dark find the gates shut, and are compelled to wait till permission be obtained to have them opened, we traversed a fine bridge thrown over the Secchia, and then pass- ing near a splendid column erect- ed (as we are fold) in honour of Napoleon, found ourselves at Mo- dena, anciently Mutina; a small but handsome city, situated amidst luxuriant pasturages ; and, of late years, much improved. The gates are handsome ; the ramparts form a beautiful promenade round the town ; the streets, in general, are straight, wide, and clean ; and the Strada-maestra (part of the ancient Via-Emilia ) is magnifi- cent. The Cathedral contains a picture of the Presentation by Guido ; and the Campanile , built of marble, is one of the loftiest towers in Italy. The Churches of S. Vincenzo and S. Agostino merit notice ; as does the public 1 La Posta—ll Giglio— and VAlbergo di San- Giovanni. 2 'Rubiera, or Mar sal’ a, for it seems lo nave both names, boasts but one tolerable 53 Library , which is well stored with valuable manuscripts and rare editions of printed works. The university has long been cele- brated ; and the Palazzo Ducale. contains a sumptuous hall, painted by Francesconi; together with a small but choice collection of pic- tures ; among which are, the adoration of the Magi, by Procac- cino — the crucifixion, by Andrea Mantegna— the Madonna, the Sa- viour, and several other figures, by Garofalo — the Holy Family, by Andrea del Sarto — four land- scapes, by Salvator Rosa — five paintings, by Annibale Caracci — the Saviour on the cross, by Guido — the martyrdom of S. Pe- ter, by Guercino — S. Rocco, by Guido — Roman charity, by Sac- chi— a small painting of the Sa- viour on the cross, and the Ma- donna standing near, by Guido — and the head of the Madonna, by Carlo Dolci. Modena contains public Baths, a Theatre, a public Walk, and several private Collec- tions of pictures, most of which are said to be upon sale. It like- wise still contains the Secchia , or Bucket, immortalized byTassoni ; but this object so interesting to lovers of poetry, is now removed from the cathedral, where it used to be exhibited, and withheld from public view, because placed under the care of the Municipality. Modena afforded an asylum to Brutus after the assassination of Caesar ; and is also famous for having given birth to Muratori, Yignola, and Tassoni, the author of the Secchia RapitaA After bidding adieu to this city, we crossqd the Panora, on a fine bridge newly constructed, which inn; and that stands beyond the bridge, on the road to Modena. 3 The Grande Albergo Reale , at Modena, is an excellent hotel. F 2 54 BOLOGNA. Tch. it. marks the limits of the Duchy; thence proceeding to Castel-Fran- co ; where we observed the lotus growing luxuriantly in the ditch that encompasses the Fort: and this being the first town of the Papal dominions, we were obliged to fee the Custom-house Officers, that our baggage might escape examination. We then crossed the Reno, on another fine bridge, and entered Bologna, by the an- cient Roman road, through a rich and beautiful Alpine country. Bologna, seated on the Reno, at the base of the Apennine, is supposed to have derived its name from the Galli-Bc'ionienses, who called it Bo'iona , which time changed first into Bononia-Fel- sinia , and at length into Bologna: but, be this as it may, the city is of high antiquity, well peopled, commercial, wealthy, and situated in a salubrious, though not a warm climate : its walls are from five to six miles round ; and its population is supposed to amount to 60,000 inhabitants ; indeed, some authors rate it much higher. Bologna has twelve gates ; the handsomest of which are those of Modena, Ferrara, and Bonaparte. The Cathedral , erected in 1600, contains the last work of Lodo- vico Caracci, namely, a fresco re- presenting the Annunciation ! it adorns the sanctuary. In the Chapter-room is a picture of S. Peter and the Madonna bewailing the death of our Saviour, by the same master ; who has likewise adorned the bottom of the choir with a fresco of our Saviour giv- ing the keys of Paradise to S. Peter. Below the choir is a cu- rious Crypt. The Church of S. Petronio, built in 432, and repaired in 4390, is large ; and, on account of its antiquity, curious. Charles v. was crowned here, by Clement vii. ; and this edifice contains the celebrated meridian of Cas- sini, the gnomon of which is eighty-three feet in height. The Dominican Church con- tains good paintings; among which is the Paradise of Guido, one of his finest compositions in fresco I Lo Studio , the Palace of the University, was designed by Vi- gnola, and contains a Statue of Hercules in bronze ; a Museum of Natural History ; an Anatomical Theatre; a Cabinet of Antiqui- ties ; and a Library rich in ma- nuscripts and books of Science. This celebrated University, sup- posed to have been founded by the Countess Matilda, once con- tained six thousand Students, and seventy-two Professors. The Academia delle belle Arti is adorned with a fine, though not a numerous, collection of pictures; among which are the conversion of S. Paul, by Lodovico Caracci — S. Girolamo, by Agostino Caracci — S. Bruno, by Guercino — the Madonna della Pieta, by Guido — S. Cecilia, by Raphael — the mas- sacre of the Innocents, by Guido — a fine picture, by Parmigianino — the head of Guido, by Simone da Pesaro — the portrait of S. Andrea Corcini, by Guido ; and two large pictures, by Domenichino. The Palazzo-Marescalchi, and the Palazzo-Ercolano , likewise contain good pictures. The Tower of Asinelli, built in 1 1 19, is three hundred and twenty seven feet high, and said to be the loftiest edifice of its kind in Italy. The neighbouring Tower , built in 1110, is an hundred and forty feet in height, and from eight to nine feet out of the perpendicular. BOLOGNA. ch. ii.] A handsome Fountain, adorned by a colossal statue of Neptune , called the chef-d'oeuvre of Gio- vanni di Bologna, embellishes the Piazza del Giganle ; and through this city runs a Canal, by the aid of which travellers may go by water to Ferrara, and thence em- bark on the Po for Venice. The Theatre here is one of the largest in Italy ; and the facades of the palaces, and other build- ings, are magnificent ; but the streets appear narrow, from being lined almost universally with por- ticos ; and this circumstance, com- bining with the want of spacious squares, diminishes the beauty of the town, by giving it a sombre appearance . 1 Travellers, on ar- riving here, are greeted by an ex- cellent band of musicians ; who, after having played a few tunes, are well satisfied with a fee of two or three pauls. Bologna gave birth to Guido, Domenichino, Albano, Annibale, Lodovico, and Agostino Caracci , 2 and Benedict xiv. : and among its natural curiosities is the phos- phorescent stone, found near the city, on Monte Paderno. About one mile distant from the walls is the Cajnpo-Santo , once the Certosa-Convent : and here lies the celebrated singer, Banti, whose vocal powers not long since captivated Europe. This repository of the dead is well worth notice; and its Church con- tains paintings by Cesi, Guercino, Guido, etc. The Church of the Madonna della Guardia also merits notice ; as it is approached by a Portico, 1 The best hotels here are, The Grande A Ibergo Imperiale, and S. Marco. 2 Annibale Caracci was designed for a goldsmith ; but his uncle, Lodovico, ob- serving that both Annibale and his brother, j Agostino, were blessed with great abilities, 55 consisting of six hundred and forty arches, built at the expense of various individuals, corporations, and ecclesiastical establishments ; the whole being three miles in length, and extending from the city to the church, which is mag- nificently placed, and somewhat resembles theSuperga near Turin. Persons who enjoy fine scenery and good paintings should like- wise visit S. Michele in Bosco, once a Convent belonging to the Olivetans. The Portico of the Church is adorned by the pencil of Cignani ; and one of the cha- pels contains a picture, by Guer- cino, representing Bernardo To- lomei, the Founder of the Order, receiving his statutes from the hands of the Madonna. In the Convent are several fine works by Lodovico Caracci ; and one pic- ture by Spada. The situation of this building is delicious. I will now close my account of Bologna, by observing, that per- sons who visit Italy for the pur- pose of educating their children, would do well to reside in this last-named city, where masters of every description may be obtained on moderate terms. Between Milan and Bologna the road is excellent, and does not pass over one high hill : and from Bologna we crossed the Appen- nine to Florence by a road which, though hilly, is excellent, and in great measure newly constructed, under the direction of the CaY. Fabbroni. The time usually employed in accomplishing -this journey, either with post-horses, or en voiturier , took upon himself the office of instructing them in painting ; and so much did they profit by his lessons, that their memory must be for ever honoured by true lover* of the Arts, 5a PASSAGE OF THE APPENINE. [oh. ii. is from fourteen to fifteen hours. The ascents and descents are more rapid than those of the Sim- plon; though not sufficiently so to render a drag-chain often re- quisite, even for heavy carriages ; and the paved gutters intersected by small wells, made to receive the streams which descend from the heights above the road, keep the latter dry, and in good repair. From Bologna to Pianoro, the first post, we found the country rich and flat; but at Pianora oxen were added to our horses, and we began to ascend the Apennine, whose summit presented us with a magnificent vie w of the plains we had recently traversed, the Alps, and the Mediterranean and Adri- atic sea. The wind on this spot is, generally speaking, strong, and particularly cold. Hence we proceeded to the next post, Lojano, where travellers should not sleep, as the inn affords no comfortable accommodation. From Lojano to Pietramala, the frontier Cus- tom-house of Tuscany, the ascent continues ; and the road winds amidst bold scenery, less sublime than the Alps, but more beautiful. The inn at Pietramala (about midway between Bologna and Florence), is provided with seve- ral clean beds ; and persons wish- ing to visit the little Volcano, in this neighbourhood, would do well to sleep here. The Volcano is situated on a hill, called Monte di Fo, covered with rocks, and about one mile distant from the inn ; but there being neither a carriage nor 1 All Ihs Gates of Florence are shut when a mule road to the spot, it is ne- cessary to walk ; and less than an hour and a half cannot be allowed for going and returning. The mouth of this little volcano dis- gorges, unceasingly, clear flames, sometimes spreading fifteen feet in circumference, and always burning brightest in wet and stormy weather. From Pietramala we descended the Apennine to Le Maschere, another inn, provided with good beds ; thence proceeding through a country gradually increasing in richness, till, at length, Val-d- Arno opened to our view, and exhibited, in its centre, the beau- tiful city of Florence, seated amidst fields teeming with al- most every production of the vegetable w r orld, and surrounded by hills clothed with olives and vineyards, and studded with an innumerable host of splendid vil- las. Ariosto says of Florence, that, on seeing the hills so full of pa- laces, it appears as if the soil pro- duced them. “ And if thy palaces (continues he) , which are thus dis- persed, were concentrated within one wall, two Romes could not vie with thee.” The approach to Florence for several miles displays a richness of cultivation unrivalled, perhaps, in any country, (the environs of Lucca excepted) : and the entrance to the city, this way,, through the Porta-San-Gallo, is strikingly magnificent. 1 t becomes dark, except the Porta-San-Gallo. CHAPTER III FLORENCE. Origin and present appearance of Florence— Palazzo-Vecchio— Loggia— Piazza del Grartduca — Fabbrica degli Ufizi— Magliabechiana Library— Royal Gallery— Palazzo-Filti— Giardino dl Boboli — Museo d’Ltoria Naturale— Duoxno — Campanile — Baptistery— Chiesa di San Marco — S. S. Annunziata— S. Maria Maddalena dei Pazzi— Santa Croce— S. Lorenzo— New Sacristy — Old Sacristy— Capella de’ Medici — Mediceo-Laurenziana Library — Cliiesa di Santa Maria Novella— D’Or-San-Michele — Di San-Spirilo— Del Carmine — Di S. Trinita — Di S. Ambrogio — Di S. Gaetano; etc. — Reale Accademia delle Belle Arti — Oratorio dello Scalzo — Palazzi Gerini— Riccardi— Corsini — Mozzi — Buonaroti — Strozzi— Uguccioni— Casa dei Poveri — Spe— dale di Bonifazio— Spedale di Santa Maria Nuova— Spedale degl’ Innocenli — Column in Via Romana— Column near the Ponte S’. Trinita — Column in the Piazza del Duomo— Bronze Wild Boar in the Mercato Nuovo — Pedestal near the Chureh of Si Lorenzo— Group of Her-- cules and Nessus— Statue- of Ferdinando I.— Porta S. Gallo— Triumphal Arch— Fresco by Giovanni di San Giovanni — Ponte S. Trinita — Theatres — Florentine Mosaic Work, and Sculpture in Alabaster — Accademia della Crusca— Hotels — Provisions— Water — Climate- List of objects best worth notice, as they lie near each other. Florence, in Italian, Firenze, which signifies, in the Etruscan language, a red lily (actually the arms of the city), has deservedly acquired the appellation of La [ Bella : it stands (as I have al- ready mentioned) in a luxuriant, beautiful, and extensive plain, en- circled by the Apennine ; and is said, by some authors, to have : been an ancient town of Etruria, afterward inhabited by the Phoe- nicians; while others suppose it to have been founded either by Sylla’s soldiers, or the people of Fiesole: and one thing seems certain, namely, that the choicest part of Caesar’s army was sent to colonize at Florence (then called Florentia), about sixty years be- fore the birth of our Saviour; and under the dominion of the Roman Emperors it became one of the most considerable cities of Etru- ria, and was embellished with a Hippodrome, a Campus Martius, a Capitol, and a road, called Via- Cassia. Its walls are six miles in circumference, and contain above 70,000 persons ; and the river Ar- no (anciently Arnus ) , which runs through it, is adorned with four handsome bridges : its squares are spacious and numerous : its streets, like those of every large Tuscan city, clean, and excellently paved with flat stones; and, were the facades of all its churches finished, nothing could exceed the elegance of this Athens of Italy. So many changes have lately taken place at Florence, relative to works of art, etc., that I trust it will not appear like arrogance in me to give a minute detail of the objects best worth a Travel- ler’s attention ; especially as there exists, at this moment, no accu- rate Florence Guide. The Palazzo- Vecchio, adorn- ed with a Tower so lofty that it is deemed a chef-d'oeuvre of archi- tecture, was built by Arnolfo, the Disciple of Cimabue : and, before the entrance to this palace, is a Statue, in marble, of David, sup- 58 Florence. [ch. uu posed to be in the act of slaying Goliath, by Buonaroti ; 1 and a group, likewise, in marble, of Hercules slaying Cacus, by Ban- dinelli. On the ceiling and walls of the great hall are frescos of the most celebrated actions of the Florentine Republic and the House of Medicis, allbyYasari; except four pictures in oil, one representing the coronation of Cosimo i., by Ligozzi; another, the twelve Florentines, at the same time Ambassadors from dif- ferent States to Boniface vm., by Ligozzi ; a third, the election of Cosimo i., by Cigoli; and, a fourth, the institution of the or- der of S. Stefano, by Passignano. In this hall, likewise, is a group of Victory with a prisoner at her feet, by Buonaroti! and another group of Virtue triumphing over Vice, by Giovanni di Bologna ! The exploits of Furius V^millus are painted in tempera , by Sal- viati, in the Sala dell’ Udienza Yecchia. The Loggia of the Palazzo - Vecchio was built after the de- sign of Andrea Arcagna; and is adorned with a group, in bronze, called J udith and Holofernes, by Donatello — Perseus with Medu- sas head, in bronze, by Cellini! (the basso-rilievo on the pedestal which supports this group is much admired), a group in marble, of a young Roman warrior carrying oft a Sabine Virgin, and her fa- ther prostrate at his feet, with the rape of the Sabines in basso - rilievo on the pedestal, by Gio- vanni di Bologna! ! — two lions, in marble, brought from the Villa- Medici, at Rome — and six antique statues of Sabine priestesses. The Piazza del Granduca 1 Michelangelo Buonaroti was not only the most eminent Sculptor of modern days, but contains a noble fountain, erect- ed by Cosimo i., after the design of Ammannati — and an eques- trian statue of Cosimo i., in bronze, by Giovanni di Bologna ! to whom the sea-nymphs and tri- tons, which surround the foun- tain, are likewise attributed. The Fabbrica degli Ufizi, which comprehends the Royal Gallery, was built by Vasari: the exterior part of the edifice is or- namented with Doric columns, forming two magnificent porticos, united at one end by an arch, which supports the apartments occupied by courts of justice; and, over this arch, is a statue of Cosimo i., by Giovanni di Bolog- na ; together with recumbent figures of Equity and Rigour, by Vincenzo Danti. The Magliabechiana-Library , rich in manuscripts and printed books of the fifteenth century, (and where the Florentine acade- my meet) , is under the same roof with the Royal Gallery ; the latter is usually open to the public from nine in the morning till three in the afternoon, festivals excepted. Staircase leading to the Royal Gallery. Between the windows is the statue of Bacchus, in mar- ble; and, opposite to it, the statue of a Child. First Vestibule. A statue of Mars, and another of Silenus, with an infant Bacchus, both in bronze — ten busts of the Princes of the House of Medicis, among which is that of the great Lorenzo — four bassi-rilievi. Second Vestibule. A horse in marble; supposed to have ori- ginally belonged to the group of Niobe and her Children ! Two quadrangular Columns, which likewise the Founder of the French School of Painting. FLORENCE. CH. III.] appear to represent the victories by land and sea of the person to whom they were dedicated : on one of these columns rests a head of Cybele; and, on the other, a fine bust of Jupiter?^- a Wild Boar ! ! said to be Grecian sculp- ture — colossal statues of Trajan, Augustus, and a Barbarian King — two Wolf-dogs — a bust of Leo- poldo. First Corridor. The ceiling of this immense Gallery is adorned with arabesques : round the walls, near the ceiling, are portraits of the most renowned characters ojf antiquity ; comprehending gene- rals, statesmen, princes, and lite- rati; and, on the wall to the left, below the portraits, are paintings of the Florentine school. Here, likewise, is a most valuable col- lection of busts of the Roman emperors, and many of their re- latives, which go round the three corridors. The first corridor contains several curious sarco- phagi ; one of which, in the centre of this apartment, near the en- trance-door, is particularly ad- mired. On the left side are sta- tues of a Wrestler, Mercury, and Apollo, all especially worth no- tice ; as, are the statues of Apollo, Urania, and Pan, with the young Olyntus, on the right side ; and the two seated figures of Roman Matrons , 1 and the group of Hercules killing the Centaur Nessus, at the end. Second Corridor . On each side near the ceiling, is a continuation of the portraits of the most re- nowned characters of antiquity ; here, likewise, are paintings con- taining the history of S. Maria Maddalena, together with several pieces of sculpture, namely, Cu- pid ; Bacchus and Ampelos ; a 1 One of these is supposed to repr 59 Bacchante ; Mercury ; Leda ; Yenus rising from the bath ; Minerva ; or, Pallas -Athenas ; a round altar ! supposed to be the work of Cleomenes ; a tripod, de- dicated to Mars ; a Faun ; Gany- mede with the eagle ; a torso of a Faun ! etc. Third Corridor . The ceiling of this immense Gallery is adorned with paintings, representing the revival of the Arts and Sciences, with other historical subjects ; in which are introduced portraits of all the most eminent characters among the Florentines. On each side, near the ceiling, is a conti- nuation of the portraits of the most renowned characters of an- tiquity ; and, on the left side, below the portraits, are paintings of the Neapolitan, and other schools. Here, likewise, is a large number of stalues ; among which are Marsyas — Bacchus, by Buonaroti— S. John, by Dona- tello — and a copy of the Laocoon, by Bandinelli— an antique re- cumbent Statue, in black marble, supposed to represent Morpheus ! — David, by Donatello-— Bacchus, by Sansovino — Apollo seated — a wounded Soldier — a Discobolus, attributed to Myron ! and a The- tis on a sea-horse. This apart- ment also contains a fine picture of S. Peter healing the lame man at the gate of the temple, by Co- simo Gamberucci ; another of the transfiguration, by Luca Giorda- no ; and another of the Madonna, our Saviour, and S. John, copied, by Empoli, from a celebrated fresco, which was painted by An- drea del Sarto, and is now de- stroyed. Among the most striking busts in the corridors are those of Nero, Otho, Titus Vespasian, and Antoninus Pius. sent Agrippina, the mother of Nero. 60 FLORENCE. Cabinet of modern bronzes. Mercury standing on the wind, by Giovanni di Bologna ! /—-Bust of Cosimo de 1 Medici, by Cellini! Bassi - rilievi representing S. Francis Xavier, S. Joseph, and S. Teresa, by Soldani — a recum- bent Statue, by Vecchietta of Siena— an anatomical statue, by Cigoli— a Child with wings, at- tributed to Donatello' — David, at- tributed likewise to Donatello — * a copy of the Farnese bull — the sacrifice of Abraham, by Ghi- berti ! — a small copy of the Lao- coon ! Cabinet ef antique bronzes; enclosed in fourteen glass cases— the first of which contains, Apis, Jupiter, Neptune, Pluto, and a remarkable head of Saturn ; Juno, with Etruscan characters on her hfp ! a Grecian bust of Minerva, etc. Second case. Venus with Jher attributes— a celestial Venus — a triumphant Venus— an Her- maphrodite ! — ■ an A mazon I— Mars armed, etc. Third case. Hercu- les, Bacchus, and Bacchantes— a Faun playing the Doric flute— the labours of Hercules represented by a multitude of small statues— a Genius giving ambrosia to Bac- chus ! Fourth case. Victory, Fortune, Genii, Egyptian divini- ties ; among which is a beautiful Serapis, and Isis, crowned with a disk, holding Horns on her lap. Fifth case. Etruscan divinities ; a very fine collection. Sixth case. Portraits of men and women ; fragments of statues, beautifully executed ; and a small skeleton. Seventh case. Animals of various kinds, which served for votive -of- ferings ; symbols, and military ensigns ; a hippogriff, a chimaera ; a bull with a man’s head ; a Roman 1 Winckelmaim seems to have thought this fine statue the work of a Grecian ar- [gh. nr. eagle, which belonged to the twen- ty-fourth Legion — and an open hand, called by the Romans Ma~ nipulus. Eighth case. Sacri- ficial instruments, altars, and tri- pods ; a curious sistrum ; a mural crown, etc. Ninth case. Cande- labra and lamps. Tenth case. Helmets, spurs, bits, etc., for horses ; rings, bracelets, ear-rings, all made of gold ; mirrors of white metal ; and needles made of hair. Eleventh case. Ancient inscrip- tions graven an bronze — a manu- script, on wax, nearly effaced — ■ Roman scales and weights; etc. Twelfth and thirteenth cases. Kitchen utensils — a silver disk ! on which is represented Flavius Ardaburius, who was Consul of Rome in 342. Fourteenth case. Locks, keys, andsome monuments of the primitive Christians ; among which is a lamp in the shape of a boat, with a figure of S. Peter at the stern. Middle of the cabinet. The Head of a Horse ! An Orator, with Estruscan characters engraved on his robe ! ! — this fine statue was found near the Lake of Perugia— # Chimaera, with Etruscan characters engraved on one of the legs ! 1 it was found near Arezzo- — An Etruscan statue of a Genius, or, perhaps, a Bac- chus, found at Pesaro ! ! ! s A M> nerva; injured by fire, but very beautiful ; on the helmet is a dra- gon, the symbol of vigilance and prudence ! ! This statue was found near Arezzo, and one arm has been restored. Behind the Chimaera is a Torso! and, before it, a Tri- pod ! supposed to have belonged to a temple of Apollo. This ca- binet likewise contains four busts, found in the sea, near Leghorn ; they appear to be Grecian sculp- tist; especially as Pesaro was a Grecian co-j lony. FLORENCE. CH. III.] 61 ture, and one of them resembles Homer . 1 Hall of Niobe. At the upper end of this magnificent apartment is the celebrated group of Niobe and her youngest child ; supposed to have been done by Scopas ; and generally considered as the most interesting effort of the Grecian chisel Italy can boast : it is not, however, perfect ; as one of the mothers hands, and one of the child’s feet, have been re- stored. Round the apartment are statues of the other children of Niobe ; which seem the work of various artists. The daughter, next to Niobe, on the left, is ad- mirably executed ; the opposite statue, on the right, has great merit ; the dead son is wonderfully fine ; but, considering the fable, it appears extraordinary that the sculptor should have placed him on a cushion. The two daughters on each side of Psedagogus, and the third statue, on the left of the entrance door, have great merit. It is extremely to be re- gretted that these chefs-d'oeuvre of art are not disposed in such a manner as to accord with the subject. The second statue on the left of the entrance door is a Psyche, and has nothing to do with the tragedy of Niobe; but was intro- duced merely to adorn the apart- ment ; as likewise was the statue of a youth kneeling, and appa- rently wounded. The walls of this room are adorned with the following pic- 1 The Etruscan Bronzes of the Florentine | Gallery are supposed to have been executed at a period when Sculpture of this sort had \ reached its zenith of perfection in Etruria; l , where, according to Pausanias, bronze sta- tues existed much earlier than in Greece. | We are told that Romulus had his statue i made of bronze, probably by an Etruscan i artist; we are likewise told that this event tures. A portrait of a Princess, resembling Mary, Queen of Scot- land, by Yandyck. A gipsy telling a young woman her for- tune; and the adoration of the Infant Jesus; both by Gherardo delle notti — a Bacchanalian party, by Rubens— *a story from Ariosto ? by Guido — a man with a monkey, by Annibale Caracci — the Ma- donna, our Saviour, S. John, etc.; by Fra Bartolommeo della Porta ! — a portrait of Lorenzo de’ Me- dici duke of Nemours, by Ales- sandro Allori— the Dispute in the Temple, by M. A. Caravaggio * — Mars armed, by Guercino, — S. Maria Maddelana, by Carlo Dolci — The Madonna entreating our Saviour to bless the Charita- ble, called the Madonna del Po- polo , by Baroccio !-— a portrait of the Sculptor Francavilla, by Por- bus — a Madonna, by Sassoferato — a head of S. Peter in tears, by Lanfranco. — The martyrdom of S. Stephen, by Cigoli ! — S. Clovis, of the Cordeliers, by Carlo Dolci — Elizabeth, Duchess of Mantua, by Andrea Mantegna — the Infant Jesus with Angels, by Albano — and the Madonna, our Saviour, etc. ; supposed to have been designed by Leonardo da Vinci, and coloured by Ber- nardino Luino. Cabinet of Greek and Latin Inscriptions , Egyptian Monu- ments , etc. Here are two Egyp- tian divinities in basalt — sepul- chral Monuments — Brutus, by Buonaroti, only just commenced ; and above it the first work of that occurred about the eighth Olympiad; and it does not appear that the Greeks worked in bronze till about the sixtieth Olympiad. During the iufancy of bi'onze sculpture, the component parts of statues were fastened together with nails: this is exemplified by six female figures of bronze, found iu Her- culaneum. G 62 FLORENCE. [ch. ni. artist (the head of a Satyr), exe- cuted when he was only fifteen, and the cause of his introduction to the Platonic Academy. Busts of Euripides — Demosthenes — Aratu s — Pythagoras — Sappho — Alcibiades — Sophocles — Aristo- phanes — Plato — Homer — Seneca — Ovid — Solon — Socrates — An- acreon — Hippocrates, etc. Cabinet containing portraits of Painters , chiefly done by themselves . In the centre of this apartment is the celebrated Vase of the Villa Medicis, adorned with bassi-rilievi representing the sa- crifice of Iphigenia ! ! The ceiling is painted by Pietro Dandini : round the walls are portraits of Raphael, Leonardo da Vinci, Buonaroti, Titian, the Caracci family, Domenichino, Albano, Guercino, Guido, Vandyck, Ve- lasques, Rembrandt, Charles Le Brun, Vander-Werf, etc. etc. The apartment which communi- cates with this, likewise contains portraits of Painters. — The ceil- ing is painted by Bimbacci ; and in the centre of the room is a magnificent table of Florentine Mosaic work. 1 Round the walls are portraits of Mengs, Batoni, Reynolds, Angelica Kaufman, and Madame Lebrun : and here, also, is a marble bust of Mrs. Da- rner, done by herself. Cabinet containing pictures of the Venetian School. Portrait of a man with his hand on a skull, by Titian — portrait of Sansovino, by ditto — portrait of an old man, by Monroe — -our Saviour dead, by Giovanni Bellino — a figure in a Spanish dress, by Monroe —the Madonna, our Saviour, S. John, etc., by Titian — Venus with her 1 Florentine Mosaic Work, called Opera di Commesso, consists of sparks of gems, and minute pieces of the finest marble, so attendants, and Adonis dead, by Bonvicino — portraits of Francesco Duke of Urbino, and his Duchess, by Titian ! — four heads, by Paolo Veronese, Paris Borbone, Tiberio Tinelli, and Campagnola — two dogs, by Bassano — portrait of Giovanni de’ Medici, the father of Cosimo i. by Titian ! — the mar- riage at Cana in Galilee, by Tin- toretto — portrait of a man in black with red hair, by Bordone — the Madonna, our Saviour, and S. Catherine, who is offering him a pomegranate, by Titian ! ! and the portrait of a woman with flowers, commonly called The Flora ! by the same master — the Crucifixion, by Paolo Veronese — ortrait of Sansovino in old age, y Tintoretto — portrait of a Knight of Malta, by Giorgione — portrait of a Geometrician, by Palma Vecchio. Cabinet of Gems , etc. This apartment is ornamented with fine columns of oriental alabaster, and verde antique ; and contains a most valuable collection of me- dals, gems, etc., together with a table of Florentine mosaic work, executed when the manufacture was in its infancy, and represent- ing the ancient port of Leghorn. Cabinet containing pictures of the French School. The ceilings of this apartment, and those that communicate with it, were painted by the Poccetti school. Pictures on the walls— Theseus raising the enormous stone, under which his father hid the sword he was to take to Athens ! by N. Poussin — Venus and Adonis, by the same master. Cabinet containing pictures of the Flemish School. Bust of placed as to imitate flowers, insects, and N paintings of every description. FLORENCE. 63 CH. III.] a man wrapped in fur, with a cap on his Head, by Denner! — a landscape, by Paul Brill — ditto, by Claude Lorrain. The inside of a church, by Peter Neff— and the inside of a prison, where the death of Seneca is represented, likewise by Peter Neff. Cabinet containing Pictures of the Dutch School. A Schoolmas- ter teaching a Child to read, by Gerard Dow — nine pictures by Francis Mieris, namely, a Char- latan exhibiting his tricks — an old Lover and his Mistress — a Man seated at Table, with a Bottle of Beer; and, near him, a Woman and a Man asleep — the portrait of the Son of Mieris — his own Por- trait — ditto, in another attitude— a Woman sleeping, and two other figures — the Painter’s Family — and a Peasant cutting Bread, while his Wife drinks Beer, — The Judgment of Solomon, by Yan- der-Werf, and the Saviour iu the Manger ! by the same artist. Cabinet containing Pictures of the Italian School . The Head of Medusa, by M. A. Caravaggio !— * the bust of the Madonna pressing Our Saviour to her Bosom ! by Carlo Cignani — the Rape of Eu- ropa , by Albano — the Massacre of the Innocents, by Dosso Dossi — • the Madonna, the Saviour, and S. John, with Joseph in the back- ground, by Schidone! — the Ma- donna, the Saviour, and S. John, by Massari — the same subject, by Guido — the Breaking of Bread, by Palma Yecchio — a Landscape, by Salvator Rosa ! and an Annun- ciation, by Garofalo. Cabinet called the Tribune. This elegant apartment, built after the design of Buontalenti, and paved with precious Marbles, contains admirable specimens of Sculpture and Painting. Here is the Yenus de’ Medici, found in Adrian’s Yilla, and supposed to have been done by Praxiteles ! ! ! ! — the Apollo (called Apollino ! ! ) attributed to the same great ar- tist— the Dancing Faun!!! evi- dently a production of the best age of ancient sculpture, and ex- cellently restored by Buonaroti — the Arrolino ! ! found at Rome, and supposed to represent the Scythian Slave, when commanded to flay Marsyas — and the group of the Lottatori , or Wrestlers ! ! 1 found with the Niobe. The Ye- nus de’ Medici is about five Eng- lish feet in height ; the hands are modern ; indeed the statue, when first discovered, was broken in thirteen places. Pliny mentions six famous Yenuses; one, by Phi- dias, which stood under the Por- tico of Octaria, at Rome; another, finished by Phidias, but begun by his pupil ; and this stood just with- out the town of Athens; another, at Rome, in the Temple of Brutus Gallaicus ; and a fourth, by an un- known artist, which was placed in the Temple of Peace : another, made by Praxiteles, and veiled, was purchased by the people of Cos; and the sixth, an undraped figure, was sent to Gnidus : but this latter, the more excellent work of the two, is supposed to have been destroyed at Constan- tinople ; as was the Olympian Jupiter of Phidias, the Juno of Samos, etc. It seems, therefore, impossible to discover, from the author just quoted, whether the modest and beautiful Yenus de’ Medici be, or be not, the child of 1 Winckclmann thought this work not dorus, who executed a similar croup. These unworthy either of Cephissodorus, who made artists were the sous of Praxiteles, the Symplegma at Ephesus ; or of Helio- 64 FLORENCE. [ch. nr. Praxiteles. Among the pictures of the Tribune are, the Epiphany, by Albert Durer — Endymion sleep- ing, by Guercino — a Sibyl, by the same magic pencil' — a Holy Fa- mily, by Buonaroti — Venus, with a Loxe behind her, by Titian — another Venus, with Flowers in iter right Hand, and at her Feet a Dog! also by Titian — a por- trait of the Prelate, Beccadelli, by the same master — a Holy Family, with the Magdalene, and the Pro- phet Isaiah , by Parmigiano— three pictures, namely, the Circumci- sion, the Adoration of the Magi, and the Resurrection, by Man- tegna — the Madonna, Our Savi- our, S. Francesco, and S. John the Evangelist ! by Andrea del Sarto — 'the Madonna in Contem- plation by Guido ! — the Massacre of the Innocents ! ! by Daniello da Vol terra — the portrait of Cardi- nal Aguechia by Domenichino ! — the Holy Family and S. Catherine, by Paolo Veronese— a Bacchante and a Satyr ! ! by Annibale Ca- racci — S. Jerome, by Spagnoletlo —the Madonna, Our Saviour, S. John, and S. Sebastiano, the two former seated, the two latter standing, by Pietro Perugino !— six pictures by Raphael, namely, a portrait of Maddalena Doni, a Florentine Lady, in his first style — two Holy Families, in an im- proved style, though still partak- ing of the -Perugino school — S. John in the Wilderness ! ! ! — a portrait of Pope Giulio n. ! — and another of La Fornarina ! ! who was celebrated for her attachment to Raphael, all three painted in his last and best style — a portrait, by Vandyck, supposed to repre- sent Jean de Montford — and an- other, representing Charles v. on Horseback — a Holy Family, by Schidone — Job and Isaiah! by Fra Bartolomeo della Porta — the Flight into Egypt, by Correggio ! —the Virgin adoring the Infant Jesus by ditto ! — the Decapitation of S. John, by ditto — Herodias receiving the Head of S. John, by Leonardo da Vinci!— a Ma- donna and Child, by Giulio Ro- mano — Hercules between Vice and Virtue, by Rubens. Cabinet containing Pictures of the Tuscan School. Jesus sleep- ing on his Cross, by Cristofano Allori — the Head of Medusa, with the Hair changed into Serpents, by Leonardo da Vinci !— Our Sa- viour dead in the Arms of the Madonna, by Angelo Allori— Our Saviour, the Apostles, the Marys, etc. by Carlo Dolci — an Angel playing on a Guitar, by Rosso — < a small portrait of Dante — ditto of Petrarca — portrait of Andrea del Sarto, by himself — S. Simon, by Carlo Dolci- — S. Peter, by do. a Child, holding a Bird, by A. Allori — a Sketch, by Leonardo da Vinci ! Second Cabinet of the Tuscan School. The Visitation of Eliza- beth, by Mariotto Albertinelli — a Miracle performed by S. Zeno- bio, Bishop of Florence, by Ri- dolpho Ghirlandajo! — the Body of the Saint carried to the Cathe- dral, by ditto! — the Madonna, Our Saviour, S. Zenobio, and other Saints, by Domenico Ghir- landajo. Cabine t of the Hermaphrodite. A colossal bust of Juno ! — a co- lossal Head of Neptune — an Her- maphrodite of Greek sculpture ! and a Satyr of modern sculpture — a group of two Children play- ing — a bust of Cicero ! — a bust of Marcus Antonius, very rare —Ganymede, restored by Cellini — a statue called Genio delle Morte — a group of Cupid and FLORENCE. CH. III.] Psyche, found on the Mons Ce- lias, at Rome ! — a bust of Anti- nous — an Infant Hercules— a co- lossal bust of Jupiter — a bust of Berenice, the wife of Titus, and queen of part of Judea! — a bust of Alexander the Great ! ! — a sleeping Love ! — a recumbent statue of an Hermaphrodite ! The Palazzo Pitli , where the Grand Duke of Tuscany usually resides, was begun after the de- sign of Filippo di Ser Brunellesco, the most celebrated architect of the fifteenth century, and finish- ed by Ammannati. In the qua- drc jG is the hasso-rilievo of a Mule, vfho constantly drew a sledge which contained the mate- rials employed in the building ; and over this basso-rilievo is a statue of Hercules, attributed to Lysippus . 1 On the ground-floor is a chapel, which contains a beautiful altar of Florentine work, with the Last Supper, executed in pietri duri, in its centre — the ceiling and walls are adorned with frescos, of which that representing the Crucifixion seems the best. The ground-floor likewise contains fine frescos by Sebastiano Ricci, Giovanni da San Giovanni, etc. The first room up stairs contains ten sta- j tues taken from the Yilla Medi- cis ; and the best of these is a Minerva. The second room con- tains busts of Roman Emperors, and other sculpture, likewise taken from the Yilla Medicis. In the third room are the fol- lowing paintings : — A portrait, by Rembrandt — another, of Ti- tian’s Mistress, by himself — three Landscapes, by Salvator Rosa — a Battle-piece, by ditto!! — two I Landscapes, by Rubens — Astrolo- 65 gers, by Zingona— Hunters with Game, by Giovanni da San Gio- vanni. Fourth room — our Sav i- our at Supper, by Palma Yecchio — a portrait of the Secretary S. J ulian o, by Cris. Allori — a Child, by Santo di Tito — Our Saviour dead, S. John, the Madonna, and Mary Magdalene, by Fra Barto- lommeo ! ! — portrait of Giulio ir. by Pordenone *— the Deposition from the Cross, by Andrea del Sarto — a Holy Family, by Porde- none. — Fifth room — the Madon- na della seggiola ! ! ! ! by Ra- phael — S. Mark, by Fra Barto- lommeo! ! ! — two pictures of Jo- seph and his Brethren, by Andrea del Sarto — a copy of Raphael’s fresco of S. Peter delivered from prison, by Federico Zuccari— the Madonna and Angels, by Luca Giordano — S. Peter, by Carlo Dolci — Our Saviour and other figures, by Cigoli — < S. Sebas- tiano by Titian. Sixth room — S. John, as a Child, sleeping on the Cross, by Carlo Dolci! — two pictures of the Assumption, by Andrea del Sarto— the Hours,, by Giulio Romano ! — a Holy Family, by Titian— S. Sebastiano, by An- nibale Caracci — Cleopatra, by Guido— Andrea del Sarto and liis Wife, by himself — Giulio u. by Raphael!! — S. John, by Carlo Dolci — Our Saviour and Saints, by Fra Bartolommeo ! — a dead Christ, by Pietro Perrugino — a Madonna and other figures ! by Raphael— four Saints, by Andrea del Sarto. Seventh worn — The Madonna, Our Saviour, etc. by Fra Bartolommeo ! ! — Calv in, Lu- ther, and Catherine a Boria ! by Giorgione da Castel-Franco, one of the Founders of the Lombard School — the Madonna, etc. by 1 According to W inckelmann, this statue, though ancient, is of a time posterior to that of Lysippus. G 2 66 FLORENCE. [ch. hi. Andrea del Sarto — a Head, by Carlo Dolci! — Leo x., by Ra- phael ! ! Eighth room— the Fates, by Buonaroti !!— Our Saviour and the Madonna crowned, by Carlo Dolci — a Holy Family, by Ra- phael ! — a Magdalene, by Titian — a Child, by Correggio- — S. John, by Andrea del Sarto. Ninth room — Our Saviour in the Gar- den, by Carlo Dolci! ! — a Holy Family, by Schidone ! The ceil- ings of these apartments, up stairs, painted by Pietro de Cortona and bis scholars, represent the patrio- tic actions of the Medici family under emblems taken from hea- then mythology. Ceiling of the Camera di Ve- nere. Minerva forcing a Youth (by whom is meant Cosimo i.j, from the arms of Venus, to place him under the guidance of Her- cules , while the Genius of War shows him the Laurel Wreath he ought to aspire after — the Conti- nence of Scipio — Antiochus quit- ting his Mistress to go where duty calls him*— -Crispus, son of the Emperor Constantine, resisting the solicitations of Fausta, his stepmother — Cyrus dismissing his prisoner, Panthea, that he might not be seduced by her charms — Augustus showing Cleo- patra that her beauty had not power to captivate him — Alex- ander receiving the Mother and Wife of Darius with humanity, but without being betrayed into faulty admiration of the latter — Massinissa sending poison to the Queen of Numidia, that she might avoid, by death, the disgrace of swelling Scipio’s triumph. While Pietro da Cortona was employed in painting the Camera di Venere, Ferdinando ii-, who came to vie v/ the work, expressed great admiration of a child drown- ed in tears. 44 See,” replied the painter, 44 with what facility chil- dren are made either to laugh or weep !” and, so saying, he gave one stroke with his brush, and the child appeared to be laugh- ing; till, with another stroke, he restored the countenance to its original form. Ceiling of the Camera d’ Apollo. A Youth, who again represents Cosimo i., inspired with poetic fire, and Apollo showing him the celestial globe, that he may sing of its wonders — Csesar attending to instructive books as he walks, that he may not waste time — Augustus, after having shut the Temple of Janus, cherishing the Muses, and listening to the iEneid — Alexander preparing to march, and taking with him part of the Iliad — the Emperor Justinian forming a code of laws. Ceiling of the Camera di Marte. Cosimo i., under the form of a young warrior, leaping out of a boat, and combating with his lance ; while Mars assists him, by darting lightning at his ene- mies — Castor and Pollux carry- ing the spoils of the vanquished to Hercules, who makes them into a trophy — Captives loaded with chains, supplicating the Goddess of Victory ; Peace, with the olive- branch in her hand, giving them comfort; while Abundance re- vives, and scatters blessings a- mong the conquered people. Ceiling of the Camera di Giove . Jupiter receiving a young Hero, who still represents Cosimo i., and is conducted to Olympus, by Hercules and Fortune, in order to receive a crown of immortality. A'Genius holds his hands before the Hero’s eyes, to prevent their being dazzled by the splendour of the Thunderer; while another FLORENCE. CH. III.] G7 Genius presents the young man’s armour, perforated with. javelins, to the Goddess of Victory, who engraves his name upon a shield : she is supposed to have just be- gun, and only written the initial letter of the word Medicis. The frescos, in form of a fan, repre- sent the emblems of peace ; name- ly, Minerva planting an olive-tree — Mars mounted on Pegasus — Castor and Pollux with their horses coupled together — Vulcan reposing in his forge — Diana sleeping after the chase. — Apol- lo, god of arts, and Mercury, god of commerce and wealth, appear among the emblems of peace; while the General of the Vanquished is represented as making ineffectual efforts to snap his chains ; in which attempt he is aided by Discord, who carries in her hand a torch to relume the flames of war. Ceiling of the Stanza di Er- cole. Hercules on the funeral- pile; above which is the apotheo- sis of that Hero, whom Mars and Prudence conduct to Olympus, where he receives a crown of im- mortality. The Palazzo Pitti may usually be seen from eleven till twelve in the morning, and from three till five in the afternoon. TheCustode up stairs expects from four to six pauls, according to the size of the party he attends ; and the servant below stairs expects two or three pauls. The Giardino di Boholi , open to the public on Sundays and Thursdays, is very large, and con- tains several pieces of sculpture ; the most remarkable of which are two Dacian prisoners, in oriental porphyry, at the entrance; a co- lossal Geres; the Fountain at the end of the principal walk, de- corated with a colossal Neptune standing on a granite basin above twenty feet in diameter, with the Ganges, Nile, and Euphrates be- neath, all by Giovanni di Bologna ; Neptune, in bronze, surrounded with sea-monsters, by Lorenzi ; and four unfinished statues by Buonaroti. The Museo d'Istoria Naturale , collected by the Grand Duke Leo- pold©, is said to be the finest mu- seum existing, with respect to the anatomical preparations in wax and wood, the petrifactions and minerals, and the thick-leafed, milky, and spongy plants ; which cannot be preserved in the com- mon way, and are therefore beau- tifully represented in wax, to com- plete the botanical part of this princely collection. All the ana- tomical preparations, in wax and wood, were executed under the orders of Gav. F. Fontana, except the famous representation of the Plague, which was done by the Abate Lumbo in the days of the Medici, and is so painfully fine that few persons can bear to exa- mine it. This masterly perform- ance owes its present place to Gav. Giovanni Fabbroni, a gentleman already mentioned, who has not only contributed essentially to the improvement of the museum, but likewise to that of arts and sci- ences in general. Below stairs is a Laboratory. On the first foor are two rooms filled with large quadrupeds, fishes, etc. — aLibrary — rooms destined to Mechanics, Hydraulics, Electricity, and Ma- thematics ; together with a Bota- nic Garden : and on the second floor are twenty rooms, containing the representation of the Plague and anatomical preparations ; all of which may be avoided b}- per- sons not inclined to see them. In another suite of apartments, on the same floor , are Birds, Fishes, 68 FLORENCE. [CH. III. Reptiles, -Insects, Shells, Fossils, Minerals, Wax-plants, etc. The observatory makes a part of this Museum, which is usually open to the public every day, festivals ex- cepted, from eight in the morning till twelve ; and again from three till five in the afternoon. Santa Maria del Fiore , or the Duomo , was begun about the year 1294, by Arnolfo, and finished about the year 1445, by Brunel- lesco; it measures 426 feet in length, and in width 363. Its cupola was completed by the last- named architect ; who has gained immortal honour by the perform- ance. Its lantern, designed by Brunellesco, is of solid marble, finely carved. The outward walls of this vast church are incrusted with black and white polished marble; the pavement is marble, and the balustrades and pillars which surround the tribuna were designed by Buonaroli, and orna- mented with bassi-rilievi , by Ban- din elli and Giovanni del Opera. Toward the Via de’ Servi, over a door of curious workmanship, is an Annunciation in mosaic, called by the ancients, lithostratum , and executed by Ghirlandajo : another specimen of the same kind is placed within the church, above the great door. Over the southern door is a group of the Madonna and our Saviour between two Angels, by Giovanni Pisano. At the upper end of the choir is a crucifix, by Benedetto da Majano ; behind the high altar, a marble Pietd , said to have been the last work of'Buona- roti, which death prevented him from completing ! and on the al* 1 Dante was horn at Florence, A.D. 1261. He fought in two battles; was fourteen times appointed Ambassador, and once Prior of the Republic: but, nevertheless, without having committed any crime against his country, he was stripped of his fortune, banish- tar are three statues, by Bandi- nelli, of God the Father, our Sa- viour, and an Angel. This edifice contains statues, portraits, and mo- numents of celebrated characters of the Florentine Republic. Oil the right, near the great door, is a bust of Brunellesco ; next to this, a bust of Giotto ; further on, are Pietro Farnese, General of the Florentines, and Marsilio Fecini, the Reviver of the Platonic philo- sophy ; a man, as remarkable for liis learning, as for the lo wness of his stature. Near the door leading to the Via de’ Servi, is an antique portrait of Dante, the father of Italian poetry ; whose tomb, how- ever, is at Ravenna, where he died in exile. This portrait was done by Andrea Orgagna ; and so highly do the Florentines venerate the memory of Dante, that the place where he often sat, in the Piazza del Duomo, is carefully distin- guished by a white stone. 1 Near to this great Poet, is a picture of Giovanni Acuto, the Pisan Gene- ral; and another of Niccolo da Tolentino; and under the first- named picture is an inscription, which says, Acuto was a British Knight. 2 In the Chapel of S. Zenobio is a bronze ciborio, by Ghiberti ; and the door of the Sa- cristy was executed by Luca della Robbia. 3 The Campanile , a quadrangu- lar tower of black, white, and red marble, designed by Giotto, and begun in 1334, is 280 feet in height, and themost beautiful edi- fice of its kind in Italy. The four statues, on the side nearest to the Baptistery, are by Donatello ; and ed, and even condemned to he burnt alive. 2 Supposed to have been Sir John Hawk- wood, who died in the reign of Richard II. 3 The Meridian in this church is said to be the largest astronomical instrument in Europe. FLORENCE. CH. III.] 69 one of these (called, by its author, his Zuccone , or Bald- pate) he preferred to all his other works, partly from the beauty of the sculp- ture, and partly because it resem- bled one of his friends. The other statues are by Niccolo Aretino, AndreaPisano, Giotjino,andLuca della Robbia. S. Giovanni , or the Baptistery, supposed to have been originally a temple of Mars , is of an octan- gular form, with a roof somewhat like that of the Pantheon. The exterior walls are incrusted with polished marble ; and the two bronze doors, done by Ghiberti, after the designs of Arnolfo, and formerly gilt, are so peculiarly beautiful, that Buonaroti used to say, they deserved to have been the gates of Paradise. The other door was executed by Andrea Pi- sano, after the designs of Giotto. The foliage and festoons, round the first-named doors, are by Ghi- berti’s son, Bonacorsa ; the bassi- rilievi represent scriptural histo- ries. On the outside of the Bap- tistery is a celebrated group, in bronze, byF. Rustici, represent- ing S. John Baptist with a Scribe and a Pharisee. The two por- phyry columns, on the sides of the principal entrance, were presented by the Pisans to the Florentines, in consequence of the latter having | guarded Pisa while its inhabitants were engaged in subduing Majorca and Minorca : and the pendent chains, seen here, and in other parts of the city, are trophies won by the Florentines when they con- quered the ancient Porto-Pisano. 1 The interior part of the Baptistery is adorned with sixteen immense granite columns, which support a | gallery; and between these columns • are statues representing the twelve Apostles, the law of nature, and the written Law, all by Amman- nati; except S. Simon, which, in consequence of the original statue being broken, was replaced by Spinnazzi. The high altar is adorned with a statue of S. John Baptist in the act of being trans- ported to Heaven by Angels ; and this group, and the ornaments of the pulpit, are by Ticciati. On the ceiling are mosaics by Apollo- nius (a Grecian artist), Andrea Teffi, Gaddo Gaddi, etc. The pavement is chiefly ancient mosaic, and in one part represents the sun , with the twelve signs of the zodiac. In ancient mosaic, likewise, is the following inscription, which may be read either backward or for- ward : 41 En giro torte Sol ciclos et rotor igne . ” * The Chiesa di S. Marco, be- longing to the Padri Domenicani, is a handsome edifice, adorned with good sculpture and valuable paint- ings. On the right of the great door are — a Crucifixion, by Santi di Tito — the Madonna, our Sa- viour, and Saints, by Fra Barto- lommeo ! — and an old mosaic, re- presenting the Madonna, etc. The cupola of the tribuna was painted by Alessandro Gherardini ; and behind the high altar is the last Supper, by Sacconi. To the right of the tribuna is the Serragli cha- pel, the ceiling of which was pain- ted by Poccetti ! Here, likewise, are, the last Supper, by Santi di Tito, and the Supper of Eininaus, by Cav. Curradi. Further on, is the Salviati chapel, completely in- crusted with marble, and contain- ing a picture, by Alessandro Al“ lori, of the return of our Saviour from Purgatory ; a statue of S. John Baptist, executed after the design of Giovanni di Bologua, by 1 ** Phoebus drives on, oblique, his fiery car.” 70 FLORENCE. Francavilla; bronze bassi-rilievi , executed after the designs of Gio- vanni di Bologna, by Portigiani; a cupola, painted by Aless. Allori; two paintings, representing the ex- position and translation of S. An- tonino, by Passignano ; and, un- der the arch of the chapel, S. Antonino in marble, by Giovanni di Bologna. Leading down the church, toward the great door, is a picture, by Cigoli, representing the Emperor Heraclius, in the habit of a Penitent , bearing the cross ; a fine copy, jay Gabbiani, of Fra Bartolommeo’s celebrated picture of the Madonna, our Sa- viour, and S. Catherine; S. Yin- cenzio Ferreri preaching to the people; and the Transfiguration, by Paggi. The ceiling of the nave is painted by Pucci ! and the cur- tain of the organ, by Gherardini. In this church are buried two ce- lebrated men, Angelo Poliziano, and Giovanni Pico della Miran- dola, both highly famed for their learning ; and the latter was not only styled, “ The phoenix of the sciences,” but called, by Scaliger, “ A prodigy — a man without a fault ! ” — They both died in 1494. The Sacristy of S. Marco con- tains a statue of our Saviour, by Antonio Novelli; two bassi-ri- lievi , by Conti ; and, over the first door, within-side, a picture, by Beato Giovanni Angelico ! The Library is rich in manuscripts — the Cloisters are adorned with frescos, by B. G. Angelico, Poc- cetti, Fra Bartolommeo, Carlo Dolci, etc.; and near the garden is a chapel, painted by Poccetti, and now the Spezieria , where the best essences in Florence are fa- bricated. The Church of the S. S. An- nunziata contains a fresco of the Annunciation, done by a certain [cii. III. Bartolommeo ; who being , it is said, at a loss how to make the countenance of the Madonna pro- perly seraphic, fell asleep, while pondering over his work ; and, on waking, found it executed in a style he was unable to equal : up- on which, he instantly exclaimed, “A miracle, a miracle ! ”• — and his countrymen were too fond of mi- racles not to believe him ; although the Madonna’s face is by no means so exquisitely painted as to be at- tributed to a heavenly artist. The open Vestibule , leading to the church, is ornamented with several frescos; namely, a nativity, by Baldovinetti ; S. Filippo Benizzi induced to embrace the monastic life in consequence of a vision, by Rosseli; S. Filippo covering a naked Leper with his own shirt, by Andrea del Sarto ; S. Filippo, while travelling toward Modena, reviled by young men sitting un- der a tree, which, being struck with lightning, two of the revilers are killed;— this is by Andrea del Sarto; as are, S. Filippo deliver- ing a young person from an evil spirit; — a dead child restored to life, by touching the garmentwhich covered the corpse of the Saint — women and children kneeling round a friar, who is adorned with the relics of S. Filippo’s clothes ; — and seven lunettes, on the other side of the vestibule. The mar- riage of the Madonna, is by Fran- cabigio ; the visit of Mary to Eli- sabeth, by Pontormo; and the Assumption, by Rossi. This Cor- ridor contains a bust of Andrea del Sarto. The church of the Annunziata is loaded with orna- ments : it contains, in the centre of the ceiling, an Assumption, by Yolterrano; who likewise painted the cupola of the Tribunal In the chapel which encloses the mira- ch. hi.] FLORENCE. culous picture, is an altar, adorned with silver bassi-rilievi; two silver candelabra, about six feet high ; two large silver statues of angels ; a ciborio, beautifully worked, and embellished with a head of our Sa- viour, by Andrea del Sarto ; a sil- ver cornice, from which hangs a curtain of the same metal; and an immense number of silver lilies, and lamps, which encircle the al- tar. The pavement of this chapel is porphyry and Egyptian granite; and, in the adjoining Oratory, whose walls are incrusted with agate, jasper, and other precious stones, is a crucifix, by Antonio di San Gallo. To the left of the great door is a picture of the last Judgment, by Aless. Allori ; and another, of the Crucifixion, by Stradano : the ceiling and lunettes of the chapel on this side, at the j end of the cross, are painted in fresco, by Yolterrano ; and con- tain a curious old picture, over the jaltar, of S. Zenobio, and other 'figures. In front of the high-altar ( which is adorned with a splendid silver ciborio), are recumbent sta- tues, the one by Francesco da S. Gallo, the other by Giovanbatista Foggini : and behind the altar is a Chapel decorated after the de - signs, and at the expense, of Gio- vanni di Bologna, who was buried m it ; and whose tomb is adorned with a crucifix and bassi-rilievi , in jronze, executed by himself, for he Grand Duke by whom they »vere thus handsomely and judici- ously appropriated. The chapel contains a picture of the Resurrec- ion, by Ligozzi ; a Pietci , by Pas- ignano ; a Nativity, by Paggi ; and i Cupoletta, by Poccetti l Lead- ng from the high-altar, toward he great door in the opposite side >f the cross to that already descri- bed, is a Chapel, painted by Yin- cenzio Meucci : and near this, is the Chapel of Bandinelli, contain- ing a dead Christ, in marble, sup- ported by Nicodemus; the latter being a portrait of Bandinelli, by whom this group was executed. The curtain of the organ represent- ing the canonization of S.Giuliana, is by Romei. In a Corridor on the left side of the church, is the cele- brated fresco, called La Madonna del Sacco ! ! ! deemed the master- piece of Andrea del Sarto ; and at which Buonaroti and Titian are said to have gazed unceasingly . It is recorded, that the author of this beautiful work did it for a sack of corn, in a time of famine. Here are other paintings, by eminent artists ; and those in the Corridor, which contains the Madonna del Sacco , were done by Poccetti, who has represented the most remark- able actions of the Six Founders of the Monastery. Another Cor- ridor contains, Manetto preaching before S. Louis, King of France ; and Innocent iv. making his ne- phew Protector of the order of Servites, both by Rosselli; and the Madonna in a car , by Salim- beni. Another Corridor exhibits Alexander iv. givingReligion pow- er to erect monasteries throughout the world, by Rosselli; Buonfig- liulo resigning the government of the Church, by Poccetti; three other paintings, by Salimbeni ; and, on the ceiling, small por- traits of illustrious Servites. The Refectory is adorned with a fresco, by Santi di Tito; and, on the top of the stairs, leading to the Novi- ziato, is a Pietd, by Andrea del Sarto, deemed one of his best works : this great Painter was buried in the open Yestibule be- fore the church. The Chiesa di S. Maria Mad - detenu dei Pazzi particularly de- 72 FLORENCE. [CH. III. serves notice, on account of the Neri-Chapel, situated on the right side of the Court leading to the church. The altar-piece of this chapel is by Passignano; and its cupole tta contains the chef-d'ceu- vre of Poccetti, representing the mansions of the Blessed ! ! In the church is a magnificent Cappella- maggiore , incrusted with rare and beautiful marbles, and adorned with twelve columns of Sicilian jasper, whose capitals and bases are of bronze gilt. Here rest the remains of S. Maria Maddalena dei Pazzi, surrounded with bassi- rilievi of bronze gilt (expressing the most memorable actions of her life) , and four marble statues, representing her most conspi- cuous virtues ; namely, piety, sweetness, penitence, and reli- gion. Sweetness, with the lamb and dove, and Religion with a veil, are particularly worth no- tice; especially the latter ; the features through the veil being finely expressed. The cupola is by Pietro Dandini ; and the other paintings, by Ciro Ferri and Luca Giordano. On the right of the high-altar is a Chapel adorned with frescos, by Sorbolini, a living artist; and on the left another Chapel, likewise painted in fresco, by Catani, a living artist. This church also contains a fine cruci- fix in wood, by Buontalenti ; and the curtain of the organ, done by G. B. Cipriani, who has left no other work in Florence, repre- sents S. Maria Maddalena receiv- ing the communion from the hand of our Saviour ! The first chapel , on the right, near the great door, contains the martyrdom of S. Pio- molo, by Carlo Portelli ; said to be the only picture he ever painted; and on the opposite side of the church are, the Visitation, by Ghirlandajo ; Christ in the gar- den, by Santi di Tito — and the coronation of the Madonna, by Angelico! The Chapter-room and Refectory of the Monastery, to which this church belongs, are embellished with the works of Perugino, Raffaellino del Garbo, and other celebrated artists. The Chiesa di Santa Croce , built about the year 1294, by Ar- nolfo, and afterward repaired by Vasari, is a vast edifice, better calculated to promote religious contemplation than any other church at Florence. Over the middle-door of the facade, is a statue, in bronze, by Donatello — and at the entrance of the church, on the right, is the tomb of Buo- naroti; who was born, at Chiusi, near Arezzo, in 1474, and died at Rome, in 1563; but the Grand- Duke of Tuscany, ‘ jealous that Rome should have the honour of providing a grave for this great and good man, ordered his body to be removed thence, and buried in the church of Santa Croce. The family of Buonaroti was noble : and Michael Angelo’s pa- rents were averse to his becoming an artist ; which they deemed derogatory to nobility : he, how- ever, by unceasing importunities, at length prevailed upon them to let him follow his natural genius. Sculpture, Painting, and Archi- tecture, are represented, in mourn- ful attitudes, sitting beneath the tomb of their Favourite ; whose bust rests upon a sarcophagus : and a small painting, done by Buonaroti, is introduced among the ornaments at the top of the monument. The statue of Sculp- ture, by Cioli, is ill done ; Archi- tecture, by Giovanni dell’ Opera, is more happily executed; and Painting, by G. Batista del Ca- CH» III.] valiere, better still : the bust of Buonaroti is by the last-named artist. 1 The second tomb, on this side, is that of Filippo Buo- naroti, the antiquary —the third, that of Pietro Michelli, called b^ Linnaeus, “The lynx of botany ’ — the fourth, that of Yittorio Al- fieri, by Canova : who has repre- sented Italy mourning over the sarcophagus of the poet; which is adorned with masks, lyres, lau- rel-wreaths, and a head of Alfieri, in basso-rilievo. The Floren- tines are not pleased with the shape of this monument ; neither do they like the manner in which the figure of Italy is draped : and this last circumstance, united with the late public revolutions, gave birth to the following jeu ct es- prit : “ Canova qnesta volta I’ha shagliata Fe l ’Italia veslita ed e spogliata.” The fifth monument, on this side, is that of Machiavelli ; erect- ed 266 years after his death, at the expense of the Literati. The sixth monument is that of Lanzi ; near which is an Annunciation, in marble, by Donatello. The eighth monument is that of Leo- nardo Bruni, Aretino, the histo- rian ; which bears a Latin inscrip- tion to this purport : 44 Since Leo- nardo died, History mourns, Elo- quence is mute ; and it is said that neither the Greek nor Latin Muses can refrain from tears.” The ninth monument is that of Nardini, a famous musician ; and 1 Buonaroli, when an infant, was put out to nurse at the village of Settignano, about three miles distant from Florence, and where the inhabitants were chiefly stone-cutters and sculptors : his nurse’s husband followed the latter occupation ; so that the child’s passion for this art seems to have been sucked in with his milk. 2 The history of-the Invention of the Cross :d is as follows : — In 356, Saint Helena, the mother of Constantine, being at Jerusalem, 73 the tenth that of an equally fa- mous architect, Pio Fantoni of Fiesole. The Castellani -Chapel contains a picture of the Last Supper by Yasari ; a monument to the memory of Cav. Yanni; and another to that of M. B. Skot- nicki ; representing Grief as a re- cumbent female figure, veiled, and lying on a sarcophagus, which exhibits a pallet, brushes, and an unstrung lyre. This monument is by Ricci, now a distinguished artist; but, not long since, a pea- sant on the Marchese CorsFs es- tate, near Florence. The Baron- celli -Chapel contains paintings', on the walls, by Taddeo-Gaddi ; and, over the altar, a picture of the Coronation of the Madonna, etc. by Giotto. The Riccardi- Chapel contains good paintings, by Passignano, Rosselli, and Gio- vanni di San Giovanni. Behind the high-altar are paintings, by Agnolo Gaddi, representing the Invention of the Cross. 2 The Niccdfini-Chapel, built after the design of Antonio Dosio, and beautifully incrusted with rare marbles, contains fine pictures by Aless. Allori ; statues of Moses and Aaron, by Francavilla! and a cupola, painted in fresco by Yolterrano, the four sibyls, in the angles of which are chefs- d'oeuvre. This quarter of the church likewise contains a cele- brated crucifix, by Donatello; to- gether with pictures of the Mar- tyrdom of S. Lorenzo, by Ligozzi; ordered the- Temple of Venus, which pro- faned that sacred spot, to be destroyed ; in doing which, remains of the Holy Sepulchre were discovered, and likewise three crosses ; it seemed, however, impossible to ascertain which of the three was that whet eon Our Saviour suffered; till a learned prelate took them all to the habitation of a dying lady, placing her first on one, then on another, and then on the third, which she no sooner touched than the illness eft her . FLORENCE. 74 FLORENCE. Tan. m. the Trinity, by Cigoli! and the Descent of the Holy Ghost, by Vasari. Leading toward the great door, and opposite to the monu- ments already described, are the following: — First, the tomb of Cocchio — second, that of Carlo Mazzopini — third, that of Carlo Marzuppini, A.retino, finely exe- cuted by Desiderio da Settignano — fourth, that of Lami, by Fog- gini*— fifth, that of Pompeio-Jo- sephi Signorinio, by Ricci ; who has adorned this sarcophagus with a beautiful recumbent figure of Philosophy, whose countenance expresses deep sorrow. Near this tomb is a picture of the Resur- rection, by Santi di Tito; toge- ther with the monument of the great and much injured Galileo, erected by order of Viviani, his pupil. The bust of Galileo is by Foggini. History tells us that Galileo was at first interred in the Piazza Santa Croce (which is unconsecrated ground), because be lay under suspicion of heresy on account of his philosophical dis- coveries : nay, it is even asserted that the family of Nelli (Viviani’s executors) found some difficulty in obtaining leave to remove his bones into the church, almost a century after his decease. Beyond this tomb is that of Filicajo. At the bottom of the church is a painting of the Resurrection, by Alesg. Allori ! and tlie pulpit me- rits notice, as it was executed by Benedetto da Ma'jano. The Sa- cristy contains curious pictures, in fresco, by Taddeo Gaddi ; and, in the Monastery of Santa Groce are paintings by Cimabue and Giotto. The Chiesa di S. Lorenzo built at the expense of a lady, named Juliana, who lived during the reign of the Emperor Theo- dosius, consecrated in 392, and rebuilt in 1425, by Brunellesco, contains a high-altar of beautiful Florentine work, done by com- mand of the Grand Duke Leo- poldo, and designed for the Cha- pel of Medicis : and, above this altar, are a crucifix, by Giovanni di Bologna ; a Madonna, by Buo- naroti ; and S. John, by one of his scholars. The church likewise contains the tomb of Cosimo Pa- ter Patrice ; two pulpits adorned with bronze bassi-rilievi, by Do- natello ; and a ciborio of marble, together with an Infant Jesus, by Desiderio da Settignano. The new Sacristy , or Capella de Principi , designed by Buona- roti, contains the tomb of Giu- liano de 1 Medici, Duke of Ne- mours, and brother to Leo x., ornamented with a statue of the Duke ; a recumbent figure of Day ! ! and another of Night ! ! all by Buonaroti — the tomb of Lorenzo de’ Medici, Duke of Ur- bino ; ornamented with a statue of that prince ; together with a recumbent figure of Twilight, and another of Day-break ! all by Buonaroti ! and here, likewise, by the same great master, is a group of a Madonna and Child, which, if finished, might, accord- ing to appearance, have proved the finest of his works ! ! The old Sacristy , built by Brunellesco, contains a porphyry tomb, with bronze ornaments, made to enclose the remains of Pietro and Giovanni, sons of Co- , simo, Pater Patrice , by Verroc- I chio. The Capella de ’ Medici , ad- i joining to the church of S. Lo- ! renzo, was begun in 1604, by Ferdinando i., after his own de- | sign. Three hundred workmen were, for a considerable time, era- ch. m l FLORENCE. ployed upon this building : but, latterly, the number has been les- sened : and we have already seen the ducal family of Medicis ex- tinct ; nay, perhaps, may see the Dukedom itself annihilated, ere the finishing stroke be given to this magnificent mausoleum of its Princes. The building is octan- gular; and the walls are beauti- fully incrusted with almost every kind of precious marble. Six sides of the octagon are embel- lished with sarcophagi of Egyp- tian and oriental granite ; made after the designs of Buonaroti ; and two of them enriched with cushions of red jasper, which bear regal crowns of great value. Here, likewise, are two statues, in bronze, one of which is by Giovanni di Bologna, and the other by Pietro Tacca. The sar- cophagi are mere ornaments; the bodies of the Princes being placed perpendicularly under them, in a subterranean repository. The Capella de 7 Medici may be seen daily, from ten in the morn- ing till four in the afternoon. The Libreria Mediceo-Lauren - ziana, one of the most elegant apartments of its kind in Europe, was built, under the direction of Buonaroti ; by whom the designs for the pavement also were exe- cuted. The windows are beauti- fully painted in arabesque by Ra- phael’s scholars ; and the manu- scripts, which compose this li- brary, are well arranged, highly valuable, and several of them finely illuminated. Here are, a Virgil of the third century, written in capitals — an old Testament of the twelfth century — the celebrated Pisan Pandects of the sixth cen- tui’y — the Psalms of David of the eleventh century— a prayer book beautifully illuminated — a missal, painted by the school of Pietro Perugino — -a copy of Dante, writ- ten only twenty-two years after his death — a Livy of the fifteenth century, beautifully illuminated — the geography of Ptolomy (of the fifteenth century)— the Decame- rone of Boccaccio, written two years before his death — a Homer of the fifteenth century— a Horace with Petrarca’s own hand-writing in it — a celebrated Syriac manu- script— the Life of Lorenzo de ? Medici, etc. etc. This Library is usually open to the public, except during the vacation and on festivals. A tri- fling fee is expected, by the Sub- Librarian, for attending travel : lers. The ChiescC di Santa Maria Novella , commenced in 1279, by two Domenican Monks, was so much admired by Buonaroti, that he used to call it his Sposa. Over the middle door, on the inside, is a crucifix, by Giotto — and, to the right, are the following pictures : an Annunciation, by Santi di Tito— a Nativity, by Naldini ! — and the Resurrection of Lazarus, by Santi di Tito. Here, likewise, are the tomb ofVillana deiBotti, by Settignano ; and a painting of the Madonna, by Cimabue, sup- osed to have been the first work e ever did in Florence ; 1 and near the latter is the Martyrdom of S. Catherine, by Giuliano Bu- giardini ; several of the figures in which picture were designed by Buonaroti. This part of the church also contains a Madonna, in marble, by Benedetto daMajano. In the choir, behind the high-altar, are paintings representing the lives 1 This is in a chapel, to which you enter hy steps. 76 FLORENCE, [ch. iii. of the Madonna and S. John Bap- tist, all by Ghirlandajo ; they com- prise portraits of the painter himself, and of several of his most illustrious contemporaries ; among whom are Pietro, Giovanni, and Lorenzo de’ Medici. The high-altar was erected in 1804; and the altar-piece is by Saba- telli. The adjacent chapel con- tains a crucifix done by Brunel- lesco, for the famous countess who lived with Donatello. In the next chapel is a picture of Christ raising the dead, by Agnolo Bron- zino, and a ceiling by the same artist : the tombs and the bassi- rilievi in this chapel are by Gio- vanni dell’ Opera. A chapel on the top of some steps, and imme- diately opposite to that wherein the Madonna of Cimabue is placed, contains paintings by Andrea and Bernardo Orcagna ; who have re- presented hell in one part, and heaven in another! This church likewise contains, on one of its pillars, the martyrdom of S. Peter, by Cigoli ; and a fine painting of the good Samaritan, by Aless. Al- lori. The paintings over the door of the Campanile are by Buffal- macco ; and the adjoining mo- nastery contains several valuable frescos by old masters; among which there ls said to be a portrait of Laura. 1 The Chiesa d' Or Sanmichele is esteemed for its architecture ; and was built by Giotto and Taddeo Gaddi, as the market for grain. On the outside are several pieces of sculpture, namely: Saints Mat- thew, Stephen, and John Bap- tist, by Ghiberti; S. John the Evangelist, by Baccio da Monte- lupo ; Saints Peter, Mark, and George, by Donatello (the last is deemed particularly fine) ; S. Phi- lip the Apostle, S. Eligio, and four other Saints in one group, by Nanni d’Antonio ; S. Thomas, by Andrea Verocchio; S. Luke, in bronze, by Giovanni di Bo- logna ! and another statue of that Apostle, by Mino da Fiesole. The inside of this church contains sculpture, by the revivers of the art. The Chiesa di San Spirito , built by Brunellesco, is, in point of architecture, the finest church at Florence. On the right of the entrance-door is a copy, by Nanni di Baccio, of Buonaroti’s Pieta, in S. Peter’s at Rome. The pic- ture of our Saviour driving the Profane from the Temple, is by Stradano — the stoning of S. Ste- phen, by Passignano— and the group, in marble, of the Arch- Angel Raphael and Tobias, by Giovanni Baratla. The second picture, to the right of this group, is by Filippo Lippi — the picture of the Madonna, our Saviour, and S. Catherine, by the same author — and the Virgin appear- ing to S. Bernardo, is a fine copy of a work of Perugino’s. The picture, representing several Martyrs, is by Aless. Allori — that representing the Woman taken in adultery, is by the same author — and the beatified Chiara da Montefalcone receiving the communion from our Saviour, is by Vignali. The Altar of the holy sacrament contains fine sculp- ture, by Andrea Contucci, da Monte San Savino ! near this, is a picture, by Ghirlandajo, of our Saviour bearing his cross! and the Transfiguration, by Pietro di Cosimo. Returning to the nave, in the first Chapel, is a picture 1 The Spezieria of Santa Maria Novella is celebrated for perfumes, medicines, etc. ch. Hi.] FLORENCE. 77 by Agnolo Bronzino, of Christ appearing to the Magdalene; and, next to this, is the Madonna, S. Sebastiano, etc. by Petrucci ; copied from a work of Rosso’s. Beyond the organ is S. Anne, the Madonna, and other Saints, by Ghirlandajo ; and, near this, is a statue of our Saviour holding his cross, by Taddeo Landini, from the original of Buonaroti, at Rome. The Cappella-maggiore, by Michelozzi, is beautiful in point of architecture, richly in- crusted with precious marbles, and adorned with statues of S. Peter and S. John. The roof of the Vestibule to the Sacristy is one single block of stone. The Sacristy contains an altar-piece, by Filippo Lippi, of the Ma- donna, our Saviour, Angels, and Saints! and a painting over the door, byPoccetti, ofS. Agostino, and an Angel, in the form of a child ! The architecture of the Sa- cristy is particularly fine ; and that of the Campanile much admired. The Chiesa del Carmine , be- gun in 1268, was nearly de- stroyed by fire ; and, in conse- quence of that accident, repaired, not many years since. The ceil- ing and cupola were painted by Stagi and Romei : subjects— the most renowned characters of the old and new Testament — the i Prophet Elias conveyed to Heaven i in a chariot of fire — the Madonna putting the veil upon S. Maria ■ Maddalena de’ Pazzi — the bea- tified Angelo Mazzinghi in glory — and the ascension of our Sa- |‘ viour into Heaven. On the right I side of the entrance-door is a pic- ture of our Saviour on the cross, I with the Madonna and Magda- lene standing near, by Vassari — a Pieta by Antonio Guido tti ; and * a picture of S. Jacopo, by Lo- renzo Lippi ! The Cappella della S. S. Vergine del Carmine was painted by Masolino da Panicale, and Masaccio his disciple, the first person who attained perfection in the revived art ; but, as he died young, his work was finished by- Filippo Lippi, the son of Fra Fi- lippo. Leonardo da Vinci, Fra Bartolommeo, Andrea del Sarto, Buonaroti, and Raphael, are sup- posed to have derived the greater part of their knowledge from the study of these excellent paint- ings ; which represent the life of S. Peter. In the choir is a tomb, by Benedetto di Rovezzano. The curtain of the organ (which is one of the best instruments at Florence), represents the Madon- na giving the sacred habit to Simon Stock ; and was painted by Romei. But the most striking thing here, is the Corsini-Chapel, magnificently incrusted with rare marbles, and containing the sar- cophagus of S. Andrea Corsini, adorned with silver bassi-rilievi ! Over the altar is an alto-rilievo , representing S. Andrea Corsini, (who, from a Monk, became Bishop of Fiesole), ascending into Heaven; this is by G. B. Foggini; and above it, is God the Father in glory, by Mar- cellini. On the sides of the chapel are two marble alti-ri- lievi , by Foggini; the one repre- senting the Saint reading his first mass, and the Madonna appear- ing, and saying, “ Thou art my servant ; I have chosen thee ; and in thee will I be glorified the other representing his descent from Heaven to assist the Floren- tines in the battle of Anghiari ! The Cupoletta was painted by Luca Giordano. To the right of this chapel is the Deposition from the Gross, by G. D. Ferretti, un- 78 FLORENCE. fcH. hi. der a Cupoletta painted by Ro- inei : and, on that side of the nave not already described, is a picture of S. Maria Maddalena dei Pazzi receiving the veil from the Madonna, by Fabbrini — a Na- tivity, by Gambacciani — an An- nunciation, by Poccetti- — and the Adoration of the Magi, copied, by Viligiardi, from the celebrated picture of Gregorio Pagani. The monastery, to which this church belongs, contains frescos by Va- sari, Poccetti, etc. The Chiesa di S. Trinitd con- tains a nativity, by Ghirlandajo — a Pieta by Angelico — a Chapel belonging to the Sassetti-family, representing, in fresco, the life of S. Francesco, of Assisi, by Ghir- landajo!* — two pictures intheCap- pella degli Usimbardi ; one re- presenting S. Peter sinking, by Christofano Allori ! — the other S. Peter receiving the keys of Heaven, by Empoli ! — with fres- cos, above, by Giovanni di San Giovanni* — a modern painting of S. Giovanni Gualberlo, in the act of pardoning an enemy, by Fran- cesco Corsi — the Sermon on the Mount, by Rosselli— and an An- nunciation, by Empoli, placed un- der a cupoletta, finely painted by Poccetti. The Statue of S. Maria Maddalena, between the entrance- doors, was begun by Settignano, and finished by Benedetto da Ma- jano! The refectory was painted by Giovanni di San Giovanni, and Ferrucci. The Chiesa di S. Ambrogio contains a Chapel adorned with sculpture, by Mino da Fiesole ; and paintings representing the miracle of the Cross, by Cosimo Rosselli. The picture in the Cap- pella del Rosario is by Passig- nano ; and the small fresco, re- presenting the Madonna ? our Sa- viour, and S. Anne, is by Masac- cio ! The Church of S. Gaetano contains the best organ at Flo- rence, and some good pictures ; the Church of Ognissanti , like- wise contains good pictures ; and the Conservatorio di Ripoli , in Via della Scala, merits the atten- tion of travellers who have time to spare. The reale Accademia delle belle Arti, founded by the Grand-Duke Leopoldo, is open to public in- spection at the same hours with the Gallery, and merits notice, not only on account of the liberality of the institution, which gives all possible encouragement to rising genius, but likewise as it contains excellent easts of the Baptistery- doors, and most of the fine sta- tues hitherto discovered in Italy. Here is a noble apartment, fitted up with drawings, etc., for the use of young painters ; other no- ble apartments, containing eve- ry necessary accommodation for those who are further advanced ; a gallery, containing paintings and sketches, by celebrated masters, among which is a valuable picture by Angelico, another by Giovanni di San Giovanni, of the Repose in Egypt ; and a beautiful head of Our Saviour, by Carlo Dolci. This academy likewise contains Schools for Architecture, practi- cal Mechanics, etc. ; and here also the Florentine work in pietri duri. called Opera di commesso , is made. Not far hence are cloisters which formerly belonged to the suppressed company of S. Gio- vanni Batista, but are now in custody of the Academy, where the key is always kept ; these cloisters,, commonly called P Ora- torio delle Scglzo, coutaiu fresco CH. HI. FLORENCE. 79 paintings of the life of S. John and two pictures, by Bassano. Baptist, all by Andrea del Sarto, Fourth room — a landscape, by except two, which were done by Both; ditto, by Swanevelt ; and Francabigio. At the entrance of ditto, by Paul Brill. Fifth room the court are figures representing -—Prometheus, by Salvator Rosa ! Faith and Hope ; and, on the sides of the opposite door, Charity and Justice, ail by Andrea. The his- tory of S. John commences with Zacharias becoming dumb, on ac- count of his incredulity. Second painting, Mary visiting Elisabeth — third, Elisabeth brought to bed — fourth, Zacharias blessing S John, who departs for the desert (this is by Francabigio) — fifth, S. John meeting Our Saviour, as the latter returns from Egypt (likewise by Francabigio)— sixth, the Baptism of Our Saviour by S. John— seventh, S. John preach- ing in the Desert — eighth, the converted Jews receiving bap- tism — 'ninth, S. John carried be- fore Herod— tenth, Herod’s Sup- per and Dance— eleventh, the De- capitation of S. John — twelfth, Herodias's Daughter with the Head of S. John. It is recorded that Andrea del Sarto received for — Head of Our Saviour! by Stra- dano ; Head of a Female, by Car- lo Dolci ! Seventh room — two landscapes, by Both ; S. Sebas- tiano, by Guercino ! and the As- sumption, by Carlo Maratti. Eighth room — Our Saviour in the Sepulchre, by Tiarini ! a dead Nun, by Vanni ; a little picture, by Rubens ! the Madon- na, Our Saviour, and S. John, by one of the Caracci Family; two little pictures, by Peter Neff; and two small landscapes, by Vernet; the Madonna, Our Saviour, and other figures, by Fra Bartolom- meo ; a portrait of Salvator Rosa, by himself; a Peasant playing on a Wind-instrument, by Murillo; a Holy Family, by Raphael ; a portrait of a Woman with a Veil, by Santi di Tito ; and an old Man with a Child in his Arms, by Guido ! ! 1'he Palazzo-Riccardi , which each of these frescos only twenty once belonged to the Medici fa- ivroa i . Tl J -i • , it ml /'"’l livres, 1 though many of them are exquisitely fine ; they will, how- ever, shor tly be obliterated by the humidity of their situation, unless restored in the manner now prac- tised at Rome. 2 The Palazzo- Gherini is adorn- ed with valuable pictures, though the finest part of this collection has been recently sold. Among those which remain are, First room Charity, by Cignani ; and Hagar in the Desert, by Rosselli. Second room*— -Head of a youn 0. Female, by Correggio ! Third room — four heads, by Nogari ; 1 Fifteen shillings. n h f I3er f n who un l°cks the door of the Oratorio dello Scalzo expects two pauls tor his tiouble; and the person who attends mily, is a fine building. The Gal- lery contains a ceiling beautifully painted by Luca Giordano ; the ceiling of the Library is by the same master; and the collection of manuscripts and printed books is valuable. The Palazzo-Corsini is adorn- ed with some good paintings. The Palazzo- Mozzi, near the Ponte a la Grade, contains fine paintings, by Salvator Rosa. The Palazzo - Buonaroti , in Via Ghibellina, is interesting, from having been the residence of so great a man, and likewise travellers round the Royal Academy likewise expects from two to three pauls, accordiug to the size of the party. 80 from containing some remains of his works. The Palazzo-Strozzi is a fine piece of Tuscan architecture. The Palazzo-Ugucciohi , built after the design of Buonaroti, contains a painting, by Perino del Yaga, of the passage of the Israelites through the Red Sea ! The Casa dei Poveri , in Via dei Malconlenti , which owes its establishment to the Emperor JNapoleon, is an immense edifice, capable of lodging three thousand persons, who, in great measure, maintain themselves, by making caps, or rather Phrygian bonnets, for the Mediterranean mariners, ribbons, cloth, carpets, etc. etc. There are work-shops of almost every description in the house ; and the present Grand Duke of Tuscany, much to his honour, supports and benefits this benevo- lent and useful institution, which has completely cleared Florence of the innumerable troops of men- dicants by whom it was formerly infested. The Spedale di Bonifazio, or great Hospital, near the Porta San-Gallo, receives lunatics, and persons afflicted with chronic dis- orders, and is spacious, clean, and airy. The sick appear to be com- fortably lodged and well attended, but the funds belonging to this charity are not sufficiently ample to supply convalescent patients with a proper quantity of nourish- ment. Detached from the rest of the building are excellent apart- ments for lunatics : somewhat less care, however, seems to be taken of these unhappy creatures than of others. The Spedale di Santa Maria Nuova contains upward of a thou- sand beds, and the patients are extremely well attended. [off. in'. The Spedale degV Innocenti usually contains three thousand children, who have not, however, a sufficient number of nurses ; and the custom of binding up every new-born infant in swad- dling clothes frequently distorts the limbs, nay, sometimes, pro- duces mortification and death. The Column of Saravezza - marble, in Via Romana , was erected by Cosimo i. in memory of the battle of Marciano — the Granite Column , near Ponte Santa Trinita, was taken from Antoninus’s Bath at Rome, and erected at Florence by Cosimo i. in memory of the conquest of Siena. There is, on its summit, a figure of Justice, which gave rise to the following proverb : — “ Justice, at Florence, is too high to be reached” — the Column near the Baptistery , in the Piazzo del Duomo , was erected to record a miracle relative to the corpse of S. Zenobio. The bronze Wild Boar , in the Mercato-nuovo , is a copy, by Pietro Tacca, of the famous an- tique in the Gallery de’ Medici. The Pedestal adorned with bas- si-rilievi in marble, which stands near the entrance of the Church of S. Lorenzo , was done by Ban- dinelli, and represents Giovanni de’ Medici, father of Cosimo i., with prisoners and spoils. The Group of Hercules killing the Centaur Nessus , which stands near the Pon te-Vecchio, is by Giovanni di Bologna!! — the Pi- azza del Annunziata contains an equestrian statue of Ferdinando t. Over the Porta San-Gallo is a fresco-painting, by Ghirlandajo ; and, just beyond the gate, a mag- nificent triumphal Arch, erected in honour of the Emperor Fran- cis i. when Grand Duke of Tus- FLORENCE. FLORENCE. CH. III.] 81 cany. On the outside of a house , near the Porta Romana. i s a fres- co, by Giovanni di San Giovanni, representing the city of Florence, under the form of a woman clothed in royal robes, and the other cities of Tuscany, as females paying ho- mage to their queen. The Ponte Santa Trinita , built byAmmannati, is remarkably ele- gant. Florence contains three theatres, the Pergola , or opera-house, a beautiful edifice, well secured from fire, and originally built after the design of Pietro Tacca — the Go- comer o, smaller than the Pergola —and the Teatro Nuovo. The Florentine Mosaic work, and the Sculpture in alabaster, of the Brothers Pisani, in the Prato, and ofBartolini, in Via della Sea- la, are much admired. This coun- try is likewise celebrated for a sort of marble which splits almost like slate, and, when polished, the va- riations of its yellow and brown veins represent trees, landscapes, and ruins of old walls mid castles ; several petrifactions are also found in this neighbourhood. A long residence at Florence is deemed injurious to the sight, ow- ing, perhaps, to that glare which proceeds from the reflection of the 'sun upon white houses, and like- wise to the fogs which prevail here in winter. This city boasts the honour of having given education to Dante, Petrarca, Boccaccio, Gorilla, the celebrated Improwisairice , who was crowned at Rome, Americo Vespucci, (whose voyages to, and discoveries in, the new world ob- tained him the honour of calling America by his own name), Ma- ch i a velii, Galileo, Buonaroti, and a larger number of distinguished artists than any other place in Europe. The Accademia della Crusca, which has, for a length of years, been established at Florence, is too well known to need descrip- tion; and this academy is now united with two others, namely, the Fiorentina, and the Apatisti, under the name of Reale Accade- mia Fiorentina. There are several good hotels at Florence, 1 and the markets are constantly well stored with excel- lent eatables, fish excepted, which is never fresh but on Fridays and Saturdays. The Florence wine is good and wholesome, the water much otherwise, except that which comes from Fiesole, and supplies the fountains of the Piazza-Santa Croce, and the Palazzo-Pitti. It is remarkable, however, that all the Florence water, when analys- ed, appears wholesome; and con- sequently it seems probable that the noxious quality may proceed from copper vases in which it is drawn, and usually suffered to stand, though large glass bottles, secured by a case of reeds, for the purpose of holding water, might be easily met with. The climate of Florence is cold during winter, very hot during summer, but' delightful in autumn and spring. 3 Doctor Downes, an 1 ll Pellicano, also called V Hotel dt Arm.es d'Anglelerre, and kept by Gasp< ,rini, is an excellent inn, where dinners ai setter cooked and more comfortably serve :han at any of the other hotels. Gasperii repairs English travelling-carriages partici arly well. Schneiderff’s is a very larg .nd good hotel: The Quattri Nazioni, an l he Nuova York, are likewise good inns ind at 4380, Piazza S. Maria Novella, Ta fellers may be comfortably accommodate with board and lodging, for a moderate price, by Madame Merveilleux da Plantis, an English lady of high respectability, married to a Captain in the Royal Navy ot France. 2 Persons who wish to preserve health in Tuscany should be careful never to eat sweet things made with orange-flower water , falsely so called; it being, in this country, a distillation from the Italian laurel-leaf (the bay), which is poisouous. m FLORENCE. [ CH . m. English physician, resides in this dty. I will now close this chapter with a list of the preceding churches, palaces, etc. , as they lie near each other. Duomo — Campanile — Ba tti s- terio di S. Giovanni — Palazzo Riccardi— Chiesa di S. Marco— Reale Accademia — L Oratorio dello Scalzo — Spedale di Boni- fazio — Porta S. Gallo — Area tri- onfale — Statua di Ferdinando /., alia Piazza del Annunziata — Chiesa di S. Maria Maddelena de Pazzi — Casa dei Poveri— Chiesa di Santa Croce — Chiesa di S. Ambrogio — Palazzo Buo- naroti — Chiesa di Santa Maria Nuovo—sua Spedale— Chiesa di S. Lorenzo — Libreria Mediceo - Laurenziana — Capella Reale— Basso di S. Lorenzo — Chiesa di Santa Maria Novella — Palazzo - Corsini — Palazzo-Strozzi — Co- lonna di granite alia Piazza della Trinita — Chiesa della Trini ta— Ponte della Trinita — Palazzo- Gerini— Galleria Ducale — Pa- lazzo-Vecchio — Loggia — Fon- tana — ■ Statua di Cosimo I. — Pa- lazzo- Uguccioni • — Chiesa di Or San-Michele — F Ercole andNes - sus di Giovanni di Bologna — Pa lazzo-Mozzi — Palazzo-Pitti — Giardino di Boboli — Chiesa di S> Spirito — Chiesa del Carmine ’ — Porta Romana . CHAPTER IV. FLORENCE. Festa di San Giovanni— Corso dei Barber! — Game, called Pallone— Environs of Florence—* Royal Cascini — Careggi de’ Medici — Anecdote respecting the Physician of Lorenzo il Magni- fico — Poggi Imperiale— Pralolino— Fiesole— Vallombrosa—Abhey of Camaldoli— Convent of LaVernia — Character of the Florentines — Tuscan Peasantry — their behaviour at a Ball — Anecdote relative to a Poor Foundling — Laws of Leopoldo — Population of Tuscany. I canxot close my account of this eity, without mentioning the cere- monies of the Festa di San Gio- vanni , the patron saint of Flo- rence, on the vigil of which is the Corsa dei Cocchi , or chariot- race, probably an epitome of the ancient Etruscan games. This ex- hibition takes place in the Piazza of S. Maria Novella. At the upper and lower end of the piazza are obelisks, to each of which is fastened a cord, whose centre is held up by six poles, supported by men clothed in ancient cos- tume. Round the piazza, in an amphitheatrical form, are scaffold- ings, ornamented with rough fres- co paintings of urns, etc. which produce, however, a good effect; at the upper end is the sovereign’s box, handsomely decorated : un- der the scaffoldings are posted horse and foot-guards, and round the piazza, above the scaffoldings, are balconies, windows, and even house-tops, crowded with spec- tators. Were the chariots made in the ancient form, this exhibi- tion would be far more interest- ing ; but the carriages are modern j in point of shape, and particularly f FLORENCE. CH. IV.] 83 clumsy, exhibiting nothing like antique costume, except the habit of the charioteers. On the morning of the Festa di S. Giovanni homage used to be paid by all the Tuscan cities to their prince, but this custom is, for the present, abandoned, owing to the pageants which represented the several cities having been near- ly destroyed by the French. In the afternoon of this day is the Corso dei Barberi, a race performed by horses without ri- ders, and which, from the multi- tude of spectators, the splendour of the equipages, and the gallant appearance of the troops who at- tend their sovereign, is an ex- tremely gay sight. The horses have, fastened to their bodies, little spurs, so contrived that the quicker the animal gallops, the more they run into him. The race-ground is the longest street at Florence, where many of the spectators stand, without any de- fence whatsoever, frequently meet- ing with accidents by urging the horses on. When these animals ! reach the goal, they are stopped by a large piece of canvass, which several men hold up ; the sovereign then announces the win- ning horse, and thus ends this amusement, which is followed by a pretty exhibition of fireworks at the Palazzo-Vecchio. 1 The game called Pallone, a fa- vourite exercise at Florence, also merits notice, because it was play- ed by the ancient Romans ; who are described as striking the fol- ds with the arm guarded, for that ‘ purpose, bv a wooden shield: the mode of playing continues pre- 1 So universal is the rage, for splendour at this festival, that a milliner, at whose h house one ot my friends lodged, absolutely hired for the day, at a great expense, a coach l; with two footmen in laced liveries, that she cisely the same to the present mo- ment; and this game, like most of the ancient exercises, is well calculated to give courage and Strength. The environs of Florence are extremely interesting. The usual airing of the upper ranks of per- sons is to the Royal Farms, or Case ini; which are open to the public at all hours ; though it is deemed unwholesome to walk, ride, or drive in these beautiful farms very early in the morning, and equally prejudicial to remain there after sun-set. Careggi de Medici , about three miles from the Porta San Gallo, was the favourile retreat of Lo- renzo il Magnifico ; and in the hall of this villa the Platonic So- ciety used to assemble, and form plans for those stately edifices and patriotic institutions by which Lo- renzo benefited and embellished his country. The house stands upon an eminence, whence the ground falls gradually almost every way; opening, on one side, to a noble view of Florence ; on another, to a boundless prospect of Val d’Arno ; while, on another, rise mountains, covered with neat farm-houses and magnificent vil- las; and, on another, vaults Fie- sole, dignified with ruins of an- cient Greek and Roman splen- dour; and, to complete the deli- ciousness of the situation, cool and refreshing breezes almost con- stantly blow, about noon, from the Gulf of Spezia, and make the fortunate inhabitants of Gareggi unconscious of oppressive heat, even in the dog-days:— no won- der, therefore, that -the elegant might parade about the streets in style : nay, further, this woman and her apprentices, though generally dressed in the plainest manner possible, were uow adorned with diamonds. 84 ENVIRONS OF FLORENCE. and wise Lorenzo should have called this his favourite abode ! Careggi, like the generality of Tuscan villas, is built upon arch- es ; and consists of an immense ground-floor, with a spacious hall in its centre, and several sur- rounding rooms ; every ceiling being arched, and every apart- ment cool. Above stairs is an- other large hall, with a handsome suite of rooms, terminated by a terrace : and round the third story runs a gallery which commands a prospect so extensive that it seems to overlook all Tuscany. On the outside of the house are noble porticos. The water at this villa is peculiarly fine ; owing, in some measure, to the following circum- stance. When the great Lorenzo laboured under his last illness, a famous physician of Padua was summoned to attend him , he did so, and exerted his utmost skill ; but to no purpose — Lorenzo died! — when some of his household, frantic with grief, met the unsuc- cessful physician, and threw him down the well in the quadrangle. The dead body was, of course, drawn up ; and the well so nicely cleaned, that its water has, ever since, been super-excellent. It is remarkable that the above-named physician, when resident at Pa- dua, had his nativity cast, and was told he would be drowned : he therefore quitted Padua, whence he was frequently compelled to go by water to Venice, and came to settle at Florence, as a place where water-carriage was unne- cessary ; thus furnishing an ex- ample Ttat human foresight In vain essays to ’scape th’ unerring stroke Of Heaven-directed Destiny ! Poggi Imperiale , about one mile hom the Porta Rornana, is a royal villa containing an admired statue of Adonis, by Buonaroti ; and portraits of Petrarca, and Laura, by Albert Durer. The prospects from this spot are beau- tiful ; and not far hence stands t he Monastery of S. Matteo in Arce- tri, near which are vineyards that produce the celebrated wine called Verde a. Pralolino , a royal Villa about six miles from the Porta S. Gallo, is famous for its garden ; which contains water works, and a sta- tue of the Appennine sixty feet in height, by Giovanni di Bologna. On the way to Pratolino is the modern Campo-Santo of Flo- rence. Fiesole , anciently Fcesulce, one of the twelve great cities of Etru- ria, is proudly seated, on a sum- mit of the Apennine, in a most enchanting situation, about three miles and a half from the Porta Pinti, by the Majano-road. Light carriages may go with perfect ease and safety, so far as Majano, which is two-thirds of the w ay : but thence, to the Francescan Con- vent, at Fiesole, the best convey- ance is a traineau ; which the peasants at Majano can always furnish. Between the latter place and Fiesole is the Docia; a mo- nastery built by Buonaroti, and deliciously situated. The ancient Etruscan town of Fiesole is sup- posed to have been destroyed by en earthquake, long before the pe- riod w'hen Sylla founded a colony there : the walls of this town, how r - ever, are in several places disco- verable : and it seems evident, from the manner in which they" present themselves, that they were thrown down by some convulsion of nature: they appear to have originally consisted of large stones without cement, like the walls of ENVIRONS OF FLORENCE. 85 CH. IV.] Pompeii and Psestum. Here, like- wise, are remains of an Amphi- theatre, built on the side of a hill, as was the Grecian custom ; the shape and size of the edifice, some of the staircases, seats, and caves for the wild beasts, together with the reservoir of water which be- longed to this theatre, may be traced : r and here, also, is an an- cient Temple, now roofed, and made into a church. Fourteen fine columns with Ionic capitals, the pavement, and the altar of the ancient building still remain ; though the altar has been moved from its original situation. This temple is supposed to have been dedicated to Bacchus. The walls of the Roman town may, in some places, be traced ; as may the pavement of the streets, which resembles that of Pompeii. The modern town, if it may be so called, contains a Cathedral, built in 1028 , apparently on the site of I an ancient temple; and adorned wilh Sculpture, by Mino da Fie- sole, and Andrea Ferrucci, Fie- : solano ; and likewise with a pic- 1 ture of the martyrdom of S. Tho- mas, by Volterrano; here, also, are an episcopal Palace, a Semi- i nary, and a Francescan Convent, which last stands on the spot I called Rocca dei Fiesolani. Vallombrosa, about fourteen miles distant from Fiesole, is well worth notice; not only because it I has been immortalized by Milton, hut likewise on account of the beauty of the country, and the i noble Certosa of Vallombrosa, i which still contains fine paint- ings ; though the finest were, I i believe, removed when the Con- 1 The Etrurians are famed for having I invented Amphitheatres, together with the l| games called Curuli, and Certami dei Crt- I vcilli : and about the year of Rome 400, || comedians were invited, by the Romans, to vent was suppressed. Vallom- brosa itself has suffered very little from being under the dominion of France : but the Certosa is not yet re-established. Mules are the necessary conveyance for persons who cannot walk, there being no carriage road to the Convent. Lovers of wild scenery would be gratified by proceeding from Vallombrosa to the Abbey of Ca - maldoli, about thirty-six miles from Florence, and thence to the Convent of Lavernia ( hions Al- vernus), about fourteen miles further. The former of these Convents was suppressed by the French; who cut down much of the fine wood belonging to it : now, however, this Convent is re-established ; though its inha- bitants, about thirty in number, are too poor to entertain visitors gratis ; and therefore Travellers, after eating or sleeping under its roof, usually make a present to the community. The convent of Lavernia never was disturbed by the French, and contains, at pre- sent, about sixty Capuchins. The modern Florentines, like their Etrurian ancestors, are fond of learning, arts, and sciences ; and, what is more estimable and endearing to Foreigners, they are, generally speaking, good-humour- ed, warm-hearted, and friendly; such, at least, have I found them, for many successive years. The Tuscan peasantry, considered col- lectively, are pure in their mo- rals and pastoral in their manner of living ; and the peculiar come- liness of both sexes is very strik- ing, especially in that tract of country which extends from Flo- come from Etruria, and perform plays. foF the first time, at Rome; the Romans thinking these new games might appease the gods, and stop a then raging sickness. 86 TUSCAN PEASANTRY. [CH. IV. rence to Peschia : but it is only among the peasantry that one can form a just idea of Italian beauty; and perhaps I might add, it is only among the peasantry one can form a just idea of the Italian cha- racter ; inhabitants of populous cities being nearly alike, whether in London, Paris, Vienna, Flo- rence, or Rome. The men are tall, robust, finely proportioned, and endowed with that entire self- possession which inspires respect, and perhaps a more favourable opinion of them than they really deserve. The women are of a middle stature ; and were it not for bad stays, would be w r ell made. They have large, languish- ing black eyes, accompanied by that expressive brow which con- stitutes the most remarkable and captivating part of an Italian countenance. Their manners are uncommonly graceful; and, in- stead of curtsying, they gently bow their bodies, and kiss the hand of a superior ; a practice common, indeed, throughout Ita- ly . When two young persons agree to marry, the banns are published three times in a parish church ; after which they receive the nup- tial benediction„ The bride’s por- tion is paid three days before mar- riage, one half in wearing appa- rel, and the other half in money ; w hich the bridegroom usually ex- pends in purchasing jewels for his lady ; which consist of a pearl necklace, cross and ear-rings, fre- quently intermixed with rubies ; and worth from twenty to thirty 1 Some of the Grecian ladies used to hold palm-branches in their hands, in order to procure an easy delivery. 2 Children in Roman-Catholic countries, however, are christened immediately after their birth. 3 An elder son among the Greeks was obliged either to maintain his mother, or return her dower. Hence Telemachus, pounds sterling : these jewels be- ing considered by the man as the woman’s exclusive property; in- deed, money so invested may be looked upon as placed in a bank ; while the interest received is that high gratification which the w r o- man derives from exhibiting her ornaments on gala-days ; and these ornaments continue in the family for ages, unless the pressing call of necessity compel them to be pawmed, or sold. When the Sposa is taken in labour, the husband, after procuring medical help, deems it his next duly to get some of w r hat is called the life-giving plant ( aleatrice the peasants call it), which he places on her bed; and without which he believes his child cannot be born. This cus- tom is derived from the Greeks . 1 A bout a fortnight after the birth of the infant, its parents give what they denominate a seaponata , or christening dinner , 2 to their rela- tions ; on which occasion every guest brings a present, as was the practice at Athens; and the din- ner is served dish by dish, likewise an ancient custom. On the hus- band’s demise the eldest son be- comes heir-at-law ; but is obliged to portion his sisters, and either maintain his mother, or return her dower : 3 all his relations fre- quently live with him : but the largeness of the family creates no confusion ; there being a superior over the men, and another over the women, who allot, to every person, their business; which is thus kept distinct. A Tuscan far- tliough he sustained great losses by means of Penelope’s suitors, thinks it imprudent to send her home to her father; because that could not be done without returning her dower: — “I could not now repay so great a sum To the old Man, should I dismiss her home Agaijist her will.” Homer's Odyssey. CH. IV.] TUSCAN PEASANTRY, mer shares equally with his lord m the produce of an estate ; and the owner even provides seeds, plants, manure, implements of husbandry, in short, whatever may be requisite for the cultiva- tion of the land. The upper class of farmers usually possess a horse and a market-cart, a waggon, and a pair of large dove-coloured oxen, who draw the waggon and the plough, whose colour seldom, if ever, varies throughout Italy, and whose beauty is as remarkable as that of their masters. The female peasants, besides working in the vineyards, almost equally hard with the men, often earn money by keeping poultry, and some- times one or two lambs ; whose fleecy coats the children decorate, on the F esta di San Giovanni, with scarlet ribbons tied in fan- tastic knots: and by the aid of money thus acquired, wearing- apparel, and other necessaries, are purchased. Shoes and stock- ings are deemed superfluous, and merely ornamental, even by the women ; who carry them in bas- kets on their heads, till they reach 87 rest : yet, notwithstanding this fatigue, they live almost entirely upon bread, fruit, pulse, and the common wine of the country however, though their diet is light, and their bodily exertions are almost perpetual, they com- monly attain old age, especially in the neighbourhood of Fiesole. My family and I about twenty years ago spent one summer alt Careggi de’ Medici, and another at Careggi di Riccardi ; and during our residence in the latter villa, we invited all the surrounding pea- sants to a dance. Our ball-room was a lofty apartment sixty feet by thirty ; and in the centre of life ceiling hung a lustre, composed of such light materials that every puff of wind gave it motion : indeed it had the appearance of being con- tinually turned round by an invi- sible hand : this lustre we filled with candles ; and the walls, which were adorned with full-length por- traits of the Medici Princes, we. likewise decorated with festoons of vines, olive-branches, flowers, and lamps, so that the whole apart- ment resembled an illuminated ar- V. , | ' V J rncui restlllll). emhrrrass^dernrtr ““““Sty *? our - Al sun-set, on the appointed fcSw “ al ' e PU * our S uests appeared altoge- the Contadma is as vain ther upon a lawn leading to the on : for the Contadina „ uo vaiu of her appearance as the Dama nobde ; and, no wonder — -since the Arcadian dresses and lovely countenances of these peasants ar- rest every eye, and show them, perhaps too plainly, how strong we their powers of attraction ? J he phraseology of the Floren- ce peasants is wonderfully ele- }ant : but the most remarkable quality of these persons is their industry ; for, during the hottest veal her, they toil all day without leep; and seldom retire early to villa, preceded by their own band of music : and no sooner did this [XS'SKlS'XSrsiZS: procession reach our hall door,thai the musicians struck up a lively tune; while the dancers, as they entered, formed a quadrille, which would have been applauded on any opera-stage. When this dance was finished, the female peasants advanced, in couples, to the top of the hall, where we were seated, paying their compliments to us with as much ease and elegance as it they had been educated in a quently worn than it used to be twenty year since. * • 88 TUSCAN PEASANTRY. [ch. iv. court : and then commencing an- other quadrille, different from, but quite as pretty, as the first. With a succession of these dances we were amused till supper; after which our visitors, who had been regaled with punch, a liquor they particularly relish, came once more to us ; when the women re- turned thanks for their entertain- ment, kissed our hands, and, pre- senting their own to their partners, bowed and retired. I cannot dismiss the subject of Tuscan peasantry, without men- tioning another circumstance, which may perhaps serve to show the grateful and delicate turn of mind possessed by these people. One day, as we were walking near Careggi , we observed a girl, apparently about fourteen years of age, watching a flock of goats , and at the same time spinning with great diligence ; her tattered garments bespoke extreme po- verty ; but her air was peculiarly dignified, and her countenance sa interesting, that we were irre- sistibly impelled to present her with a few crazie. Joy and gra- titude instantly animated her fine eyes while she exclaimed: “ Ne- ver, till this moment, was! worth so much money !”— Struck by her words and manner, we inquired her name ; likewise asking where her parents lived? “My name is Teresa,” replied she; “but, alas! I have no parents.” “No parents! — who, then, takes care of you?” — “The Madonna.” — “But who brought you up ?”— “A peasant in Yallombrosa : I was her nurse-child : and I have heard her say my parents deli- vered me into her care; but that she did not know their name. As I grew up she almost starved me ; and, what was worse, beat me so cruelly, that, at length, I ran away from her.” “And where do you live now?” “Yonder, in the plain (pointing to Yal d’Arno) ; I have fortunately met with a mistress who feeds me, and lets me sleep in her barn : this is her flock.” “And are you happy now?” “O yes! very happy. At first, to be sure, it was lone- some sleeping in the barn by my- self; ’tis so far from the house; but I am used to it now : and in- deed I have not much time for sleep ; being obliged to work at night when I come home ; and I always go out with the goats at da3 r -break : however, I do very well ; for I get plenty of bread and grapes ; and my mistress ne- ver beats me.” After learning thus much , we presented our new acquaintance with a paul— but to describe the ecstasy this gift pro- duced is impossible. — “ Now,” cried she (when a flood of tears had enabled her to speak), “now I can purchase a corona 1 * — now I can go to mass, and petition the Madonna to preserve my kind be- nefactresses ! On taking leave of this inte- resting creature, we desired she would sometimes pay us a visit ; our invitation, however, was only answered by a bow : and, to our regret, we neither saw nor heard of her again, till the day before our departure from Careggi; wfhen it appeared that, immediately after her interview with us, she had been attacked by the small-pox, and was only just recovered. During the next summer, al- though we again resided in the same neighbourhood, we, for a l| r( i ej 1 Without a corona she informed us that she could not he permitted lo go to mass. TUSCAN PEASANTRY. 89 CH. V. considerable time, saw nothing of Teresa. One day, however, we observed a beautiful white goat browsing near our house; and, on going out, perceived our Pro- tegee with her whole flock. We now inquired, almost angrily, why she had not visited us before ?— “I was fearful of obtruding,” re- lied the scrupulous girl; “but have watched you at a distance, ladies, ever since your return; and I could not forbear coming rather nearer than usual to-day, in the hope that you might notice me.” We gave her a scudo, and again desired she would sometimes call upon us. “No, ladies,” re- plied she, “I am not properly dressed to enter your doors ; but, with the scudo you have kindly given me, 1 shall immediately purchase a stock of flax, and then, should the Madonna bless me with health to work hard, I may soon be able, by selling my thread, to buy decent apparel, and wait upon you, clothed with the fruits of your bounty.” — And, indeed, it was not long ere we had the pleasure of seeing her come to visit us, neatly dressed, and exhibiting a picture of con- tent. According to the excellent laws of the Emperor Leopoldo, father to the present Grand Duke of Tuscany, no man can be impri- soned for debt, though creditors have power to seize the properly of their debtors ; and no offence is punishable with death, though murderers are condemned to per- petual labour as galley-slaves: and to these, and many other equally wise regulations, made by Leopoldo, are attributable the al- most total exemption from robbery and murder which this country has long enjoyed ; and the in- crease to its population of two hundred thousand ; an astonish- ing difference, as the original number was only one million. CHAPTER V. PISA. Situation, supposed origin, and present appearance of Pisa — Duomo— Baptistery — Campanile — Campo-Santo— Sonnet to Grief— Chiesa de’ Cavalieri — Palazzo de’ Cavaiieri — Cliiese di San Frediano— di S. Anna— di S. Caterina— di S. Paolo all’Orto— di S. Francesco — Church belonging to the Conservatorio di S. Silvestro — Chiese di S. Matteo — di S. Pierino — di S. Michele in Borgo — di S. Vito — della Spina — di S. Andrea in Chinseca — di S. Martino — Palazzi-Lanfranchi — Tonini — Lanfreducci — Casa-Mecherini — Palazzo-Seta — Royal Palace — Hospitals, etc.— University — Torre della Specola — Botanic Garden — Ancient Vapour-Bath — Suppressed Church of S. Felice — Subterranean part of S. Michele in Borgo— Aqueduct of Caldacolli — Modern Baths — Mountain of S. Giuliano — Modern Aqueduct — Canal — Royal Farm — Character of the Pisans — Hotels — Fountain-Water — Theatre — Bridges — Battle of the Bridge — Illumination in honour of S. Ranieri — Carnival — Climate. As the road I took, from Flo- interest, I shall begin this chapter rence through La Scala to Pisa, with an account of the last-named exhibits no particular objects of town. 90 PISA. Pisa, one of the twelve great cities of Etruria, stands on the banks of the Arno, forty-eight miles distant from Florence, four- teen from Leghorn, and six from the Mediterranean sea. Strabo says, it was built by the Arca- dians, soon after the Trojan war ; while other authors suppose it yet more ancient : and, in modern limes, it has been the capital of a great republic, whose conquering fleet was a terror to the Saracens, a scourge to the African corsairs, and a check upon the ambition of Genoa ; and with innumerable spoils, taken from the first-men- tioned people, most of the present buildings at Pisa were erected. This city is, next to Florence, the largest in Tuscany; but though its walls are nearly five miles in circumference, they do not, at the present moment, contain above eighteen thousand persons. The streets are wide, straight, and ex- cellently paved; the bridges ele- gant ; the quay is one of the finest in Europe; and the situation of the Cathedral, Baptistery, Lean- ing Tower, and Carapo-Santo, render these majestic edifices par- ticularly striking and beautiful. The Arno traverses the city in the form of a crescent; and di- vides it nearly into two equal parts. The Duomo , a Gothic struc- ture, in the shape of a Latin cross, built (as I have already mentioned), in the eleventh cen- tury, under the guidance of Bus- chetto, a Grecian, is remarkable for the richness and variety of its marbles, and, next to the ca- thedrals of Milan and Siena, per- haps the finest church of its kind in Italy. The eastern front is ornamented with an immense [gh. v. number of columns; some of which are Grecian marble, others oriental granite, and one is por- phyry: among these the most striking are six magnificent co- lumns which adorn the three cele- brated modern bronze-doors; and are said to be either Grecian or Egyptian workmanship. The mo- dern doors were designed by Giovanni di Bologna, and cast by P. D. Portigiani: that in the centre, deemed the least beauti- ful of the three, represents the life of the Madonna; and is sur- rounded by figures of Saints and Prophets, and embellished with an elegant border of foliage, fruits, and flowers. Those on the right and left represent the life of the Saviour, beginning with his birth, and ending with his crucifixion; they are likewise embellished with a border, nearly similar to the one already described. The mosaics, in the arches above the doors, were done by Filippo di Lorenzo Palidini. The architrave of the eastern door was taken from an ancient edifice : and the bronze- door which fronts the Campa- nile, is esteemed for its antiquity, though not remarkable for merit of any other kind. The inside of the church is adorned with seventy-four lofty columns ; sixty- two of which are oriental gra- nite, and the rest rare marble : and although most of these co- lumns were originally unequal in height, and consequently ill-adapt- ed to match, yet so well has the architect disposed of and added to them, that even the most observ- ing eye perceives no want of sym- metry. Twelve altars, designed by Buonaroti and executed by Stagio Stagi, adorn the walls of this edifice. The high-altar is I CH. V.] magnificently decorated with lapis lazuli, 1 verde antique, brocatello di Spagna, bronze gilt, giallo di Siena, etc. : the tribuna contains two porphyry columns, whose ca- pitals and bases are peculiarly elegant; that near the episcopal throne is embellished with the best works of Stagi, and bears a bronze angel greatly admired. The : decorations of the opposite ca- l' lumn were executed by Foggini: and the group of angels on a golden field, which adorn the I great arch, by Ghirlandajo, the master of Buonaroti. The seats ; for the canons (a sort of wooden mosaic introduced into Tuscany } in the time of Brunellesco), merit notice. The four pictures of S. Peter, S. John, S. Mar- gherita, and S. Caterina, are by Andrea del Sarto; and the mosaic on the ceiling, represent- \ ing the Saviour, the Madonna, • and S. John, was executed by Gaddo Gaddi and other artists in 1321. On the right side of the ( great cross is the Chapel of S. Ranieri; whose sarcophagus rests on a pedestal of red Egyptian I granite, adorned with other valu- able marbles : the sarcophagus is ) of verde di Polcevera, the altar of I giallo di Siena, and the balus- trades are of inlaid marble : the < whole was executed by B. G. I A Foggini, at the command of Go- simo in., in honour of S. Ra- 1 nieri, who died in 1161, and was ' proclaimed, by the Pisans, their Patron Saint. This chapel con- i tains a mosaic, by Gaddo Gaddi, I f representing the Madonna en- throned and attended by angels ; and an antique Grecian, or Ro- I man statue, said to represent Mars , though no w called S . Efeso . PISA. 91 On the left side of the great cross is the Chapel of the Holy Sacra- ment ; which contains a ciborio of massy silver, and an altar adorned with silver bassi-rilievi ; both well executed, after the designs of Foggini: the balustrades are of inlaid marble ; and here, like- wise, is a mosaic, by Gaddo Gaddi, representing the Annunciation. At the bottom of the church, over the great entrance-doors, is a beautiful Bar, or gallery, orna- mented with bassi-rilievi , by Gio- vanni, the son of Niccolo Pisano ; and it is much to be lamented that this fine work, which origi- nally adorned a pulpit, is now placed so high, that its merits are scarcely discernible ; it represents scriptural histories. The centre aisle contains a pulpit of inlaid marble, supported by two small columns; the one porphyry, the other oriental brocatello ; and the first is deemed particularly cu- rious, from consisting of various ieces so well joined that it may e properly denominated Breccia porfirea : the second is deemed the finest specimen of its sort in Italy. The pillar, on the right, which supports the cupola, is adorned with a picture by F. B. Gozzoli, who lived in the fifteenth century; it represents S. Tom- mas Aquinas disputing with an assembly of doctors ; and the pil- lar, on the left, is adorned with a picture of S. Agnes, by Andrea del Sarto! Among the pictures which I have not already men- tioned, those best worth notice are — the Madonna and our Sa- viour surrounded with saints, at- tributed to Pierino del Yaga and G. A. Sogliani — S. Ranieri put- ting on the religious habit, by 1 Lapis lazuli is said to be the Cyancsum of the ancients ; and Great Tartary is supposed to produce the best. 92 PISA. [CH. V. Cav. B. Luti— the death of S. Ranieri, by Cav. G. Melani, who flourished in the seventeenth cen- tury — the three Maries at the foot of the cross, by G. Bilivert— the adoration of the serpent in the wilderness, by O. Riminaldi — Habakkuk borne by an angel, by Bilivert— Judith giving the head ofHolofernes to her servant, and the Madonna, our Saviour and saints, originally painted by Pas- signano, and added to by Tem- pesti— God the Father, Raphael, and other angels, by Salembini- — • and the institution of the Lord’s Supper, by Tempesti. Thebronze Griffin on the top of the Duomo is a curious antique intaglio , sup- posed to be Egyptian workman- ship. The Baptistery , a German- Gothic structure, erected (as has been already mentioned) by Dio- tisalvi, in the twelfth century, is an octagon of white marble, whose principal entrance is embellished with two large and two small co- lumns, similar to those which adorn the great doors of the Duo- mo. The inside of this edifice resem- bles an ancient temple. Twelve arches, supported by eight vast columns of Sardinian granite, and four pilasters of white marble, serve as the base to a second row of pilasters, on which rests the cupola. The capitals, both of pillars and pilasters, are antique. The Font, elevated on three steps of beautiful marble, is adorned with intagli and mosaics, so well executed, that they appear to have been done long before the build- ing. On the margin are four places for the immersion of infants; 1 Pisa, at ibe period above mentioned, was supposed to contain 13,400 families ; and, reckoning five persons to each family, the number of inhabitants will amount to and in the centre is a large basin j i$ for the immersion of adults: this ! t( practice of immersion, however, | s j has been abandoned since the n thirteenth century. The Pulpit, one of Niccolo Pisano’s best t works, is supported by nine co- lumns of precious marble, and J ornamented with bassi-rilievi , f formed out of oriental alabaster c and Parian marble. The first (a piece represents the birth of our jj f ( Saviour — the second, the adora- 1 1 ( tion of the Magi — the third, the Presentation in the Temple — the | fourth, the Crucifixion (much in- ferior to the rest)— the fifth, the j last Judgment. This Baptistery j was finished in 1153; at which ei period Pisa is said to have been n so populous, that a voluntary j\ contribution of one florin, from v every family, sufficed to pay for ( this noble edifice. 1 i The Campanile, or Leaning Tower , begun by Guglielmo, a German, and Bonnano, Pisano, about the year 1174, is of a cir- cular form, nearly 190 feet in height, and declining above 13 feet from its perpendicular. This beautiful edifice consists of eight stories, adorned with two hundred and seven columns of granite and other marbles, many of which haye evidently been taken from ancient buildings. According to the opinion of the most respect- able writers, it appears that this tower originally was straight; though some accidental cause, such as an earthquake, the great fire of Pisa, or the natural loose- ness of the soil, has produced its present extraordinary inclination : and in that part of the Campo- Santo where the life of S. Ranieri 67,000 : hut the population of this city, du- ring its most flourishing state, is said to have amounted to 150,000. 93 Gtt. V.] PISA. is painted, -we see this now leaning tower perfectly upright, and con- sisting of seven stories only : may not, therefore, the eighth story, which rather inclines on the con- trary side to the others, have been 1 added, in latter times, as a ba— * lance, to prevent the whole edifice from falling? The stairs leading ! up to the summit of this tower are easy of ascent; and the view I from the eighth gallery is very ex- tensive. The Campo-Santo , or ancient t burial-ground, the most beautiful edifice at Pisa, and unique in its kind, is a vast rectangle, sur- rounded by sixty-two light and elegant Gothic arcades of white marble, and paved with the same. Archbishop Ubaldo Lanfranci, who was contemporary with Ri- chard Cceur-de-lion , and his bro- ther warrior in the Holy Land, I brought to Pisa a large quantity of earth from Mount-Calvary, and deposited it on the spot round ( which the walls of the Campo- Sanlo are now erected. He is, therefore, supposed to have given the first idea of this edifice in 1200; and the present structure, eighteen years afterward, was I commenced under the direction of I Giovanni, Pisano, who finished it in 1283. The statues over the principal door are by Giovanni, | Pisano; they stand in a kind of { temple, and, among them, is the II sculptor himself, kneeling to the Madonna. The sarcophagi under the arcades are chiefly of Parian ' marble. Here is the tomb of the j Countess Beatrice, who died in 1 1113, and was mother to the ce- | lebraled Countess Matilda, the j last descendant from the Counts of | Tuscany. On this Sarcophagus I is represented, in basso-rilievo , i the chase of Meleager, according to some opinions, and the story of Phaedra and Hippolitus, ac- cording to others : however, be this as it may, the merit of the work proves it an ancient produc- tion, applied, in latter ages, to its present use ; and it is supposed that this sarcophagus was the model from which JNiccolo, Pisa- no, and his son, used to study. Here, likewise, is an ancient Vase, embellished with bassi-rilievi , re- presenting Bacchanalian myste- ries, and which seems to have been one of the vessels employed by the Greeks and Romans in their re- ligious ceremonies. Round the walls are fresco-paintings of the fourteenth and fifteenth century ; which, however deficient in many respects, cannot but yield pleasure to those persons who wish, on their entrance into Italy, to view the works of the Revivers of an art afterward brought to exquisite perfection. In the first division of the arcade, on the western wall, are six large pictures, representing the life of S. Ranieri ; the three upper ones being by Simone Memmi; the three under ones, by Antonio, called Yeneziano : and they particularly merit notice, on account of the costume accurately preserved throughout them all, and likewise because they show how ships were armed and rigged in the days of S. Ranieri. In one of these pictures is the Campanile: they all are supposed to have been begun in 1300. The second di- vision contains six paintings, re- presenting the life and death of Saints Efeso and Potito, done by Spinello Spinelli, Aretino, about the year 1400. The third division contains six paintings, represent- ing the history of Job, by Giotto ; so injured, however, by the hand of time, that it is difficult to dis- 94 PISA. r | [ch. v. I tinguish tliera, although, in 1623, they were retouched, by Marus- celli. The other paintings of this arcade are said to have been done by Nelli di Yanni, Pisano. The two first pictures in the second arcade represent the history of Esther, by Ghirlandajo ; retouch- ed, however, by Aurelio, or Bac- cioLomi. The second division of this arcade contains the history of Judith ; which is modern, ill- done, and damaged. The first division of the northern arcade contains four pictures, represent- ing the Creation, by Buffalmacco, who flourished in the beginning of the fourteenth century. The other paintings which adorn this arcade (those over the doors of the chapels excepted) represent the principal events of the book of Genesis ; and were begun by B. Gozzoli, in 1484, and finished in the short space of two years. The first of these numerous pictures contains the famous Vergognosa di Campo-Santo; and over the chapel-door is the adoration of the Magi, by which work Gozzoli established his reputation among the Pisans, and prevailed with them to employ him in painting their Campo-Santo ; not merely on account of the general merit of the picture, but because it ex- hibited an excellent likeness of his mistress, a Pisan girl, whom he drew, to display his imitative powers. Over the same door is the Annunciation, attributed to Stefano, Fiorentino; and the fifth lower picture from this, is parti- cularly interesting, as it contains several portraits of illustriousmen, and among them that of Lorenzo de’ Medici. Over the door of the second chapel is the coronation of the Madonna, by Taddeo Bartoli; and in the fifth lower picture, be- yond this chapel, are portraits of other illustrious men, among whom the painter has placed himself, I though his figure is almost totally obliterated. These works, by Goz- zoli, are, generally speaking, the best preserved of any in the Cam- po-Santo. The paintings of the eastern arcades so far as the cha- pel-door, are by Zaccaria Rondi- nosi, Pisano, and were executed in 1666 ; they represent the history of King Ozia, and Balteshazzar’s feast. Beyond the chapel are three paintings, said to be by Buf- falmacco, and representing the crucifixion, resurrection, and as- cension of the Saviour. The next picture which is in that part of the southern arcade not already de- scribed, represents the triumphs of Death, and was done by Andrea Orcagna, who flourished in the middle of the fourteenth century : it contains several portraits. The second large picture, by the same master, is the universal Judgment, in which Solomon is represented as dubious whether he may go to Heaven or Iiell. The next pic- ture, or rather a compartment of the last, represents Dante’s Infer- no ; and was painted by Bernardo Orcagna, brother to Andrea, and restored by Soliazino, who flou- rished about the year 1530. The fourth picture represents the his- tory of the Anchorites, by Lau- rati, the pupil of Giotto : and over the great door is an assumption, by Simone Memmi, one of the best preserved pictures of the fourteenth century. It is remarkable that, among the immense number of counte- nances contained in these paint- ings, we scarcely find two alike. The faces, generally speaking, are well done ; the figures and drapery stiff; the perspective is bad ; but PISA. 95 CH. V.] the borders, which form the seve- ral compartments, are particularly elegant. Among the monuments is that of Count Algarotti, erected by Frederic the Great, of Prussia ; but remarkable only for the beauty of the marble : near this is the sarcophagus of G. F. Yegio, by Taddo ; and, in the eastern ar- cade, is the monument of Filippo Decio ; who had it erected in his life-time ; giving, as a reason, “ That he feared posterity would not have done it for him.” This monument is by Stagio Stagi. Under Orcagna’s picture of the triumphs of Death stands an an- cient Roman Mile-stone ; w hich was discovered on the Yia-Emilia, near Rimazzano, and thence trans- ported to Pisa ; and on each side of this column is an inscription, the one to the memory of Lucius, and the other to that of Caius Caesar, the adopted sons of Au- gustus. Six hundred ancient fa- milies of Pisa, beside many illus- trious characters of different na- tions, are said to be interred in the Campo-Santo. The solemn grandeur of this burial-ground, prompted me to compose the following sonnet to Grief; which I am tempted to in- sert, because it is descriptive of the Campo-Santo : Structure unmatch’d, which braves the lapse of Time ! Fit cradle the reviving arts to rear ! Light, as the paper Nautilus, appear Thy arches, of Pisano’s works the prime. Famed Campo-Santo ! where the mighty Dead, Of elder days, in Parian marble sleep, w . W ^° * s s * ie ’ ^at ever seems lo keep Watch o’er thy precincts, save when mortal tread Invades the awful stillness of the scene? s : *° *”PP r e SS the heavy ■^u^^rushing the big teardrop from her She veils iier face— and glides yon tombs be- tween. J ’Tis Grief!— by that thick veil the Maid I know, Moisten d with tears which never cease to flow. The Chiesa de Cavaheri ^ or Church of S. Slefano, from whom the square in which it stands is named, was built by Vasari: the high-altar, byFoggini, is of por- phyry ; so likewise is the sarco- phagus above it, reputed to contain the bones of S. Stephen; and the bronze-chair, suspended over the sarcophagus, was presented by In- nocent xii. to Cosimo hi. On the ceiling are six paintings rela- tive to the Knights of S. Stefano ; the two first by Ligozzi, the two nextbyEmpoli, the fifth, by Ci- goli, andthelast, which represents Cosimo i., receiving the habit of the order, is by Cristofano Allori. On the walls and ceiling are tro- phies taken from the Infidels, by the Knights of S. Stefano. This church contains a very curious organ ; reputed to be the finest in Europe; a nativity, by Bron- zino ; and a silver crucifix, by Al- gardi. The Palazzo de’ Cavalierly si- tuated in the same square, was built by Vasari ; and, over the principal entrance are busts of six Grand Masters of the order, be- ginning with Cosimo i. , who in- stituted these Knights to defend the Mediterranean against Turks and Corsairs, by means ofgalleys, on board of which every Knight was compelled to serve three years ere he could be finally received into the order : but, when peace was established between Barbary and the Tuscans, the Knights and their galleys became useless; in- somuch that the latter were, in 1755, all broken up and de- stroyed. Near to the Palazzo de’ Cava- lieri, there formerly stood a build- ing, now totally demolished, which was called the Tower of Famiue, 96 PISA. from having been the prison of Ugolino. 1 The Chiesa di S. Frediano, which is supported by columns of oriental granite with ancient ca- pitals, contains a painting of our Saviour on the cross, done, in the thirteenth century, by Giunto, Pisano. The Chiesa di S. Anna con- tains a curious representation of our Saviour on the cross, wrought in wood, on the tabernacle of the high-altar : and this wooden sculp- ture, of which there are several specimens in Pisa, is attributed to G. Giaccobi, Pisano. The Chiesa di S. Caterina , contains a curious picture, by F. Traini, one of the most skilful dis- ciples of Andrea Orcagna : this pic- ture represents S. Thomas Aquinas surrounded by the fathers of the church, among whom is a portrait of Urban vi. ; at the feet of these are several philosophers and he- retics, with their works torn in pieces ; and what seems very in- congruous, S. Thomas himself is placed between Plato and Aris- totle, who are presenting him with their literary productions. The Chiesa di S. Paolo all ’ Orto contains a head of our Sa- viour, which appears to have been done in the twelfth century. The Chiesa di S. Francesco , supposed to have been built after the designs of Niccolo, Pisano, contains a Chapel dedicated to S. Antonio da Padova, and painted by Salembini and Maruscelli — a Chapel painted by Passignano ; together with a Madonna and 1 Count Ugolino, a Pisan nobleman, en- tered into a conspiracy with Archbishop Kugiero, to depose the Governor of Pisa ; in which enterprise having succeeded, Ugo- lino assumed the government of the city : but the Archbishop, jealous of his power, incited the people against him; attacked his [CH. V. Child, said to have been done in the fourteenth century — another Chapel (near the Sacristy), the paintings in which are attributed toSpineilo, Aretino, who likewise did the large picture over the Sa- cristy-door — a picture, in the Sa- cristy, bj Giotto, of S. Francesco receiving the elect: and, in the Sacristy-chapel, the Madonna and saints, painted in 1395, by T. Bartoli. In the Cloister to the right of the little steps which lead into the church, the bones of Ugo- lino, his sons, and nephews, are, according to tradition, deposited. The Church belonging to the Conservatorio di S. Silvestro contains two antique paintings, by Guidotti ; and a small basso - jnlieoo, in terra cotta , attributed to Luca della Robbia, the inven- tor of painting upon glass. The Chiesa di S. Matteo , built by the brothers Melani, is remark- able for the fresco-paintings of those artists, which are so skilfully managed as to make the roof ap- pear wonderfully higher than it really is. The Chiesa di S. Pierino, sup- posed to have been an ancient heathen temple, contains a Ma- donna, painted on the wall, and a crucifix, by Giunto, Pisano. The ornaments on the outside of the great door are ancient and beau- tiful ; the pavement is of pietri duri ; and the edifice stands on an ancient Bone-house, which contains two sarcophagi of Parian marble, together with paintings in the style of those which adorn the Campo-Santo. palace, seized bis person, and cast him and his family into prison; till, at length, re- fusing them food, and throwing the key o f their dungeon into the Arno, he left them, in this dreadful situation, to be starved to death ! See Dante’s Inferno , Canto XXXin. PISA. CH. V.] The Chiesa di S. Michele in Borgo, said to have been built be- fore the eleventh century, by Gu- glielmo Pisano, is incrusted with cerulean marble, supported by an- cient colums of Granitello, and adorned with a marble crucifix, wrought by Niccolo, Pisano, and originally placed in the Campo- Santo. The Madonna, under this crucifix, is supposed to be one of the most ancient paintings in Pisa. The cupola, the upper- nave, the vision of S. Romuaido, the expedition to Majorca and Minorca, and the institution of the Foundling Hospital, are all painted by Guidotti. The Chiesa di S. Vito, or, more properly speaking, the Cap- pella di S. Ranieri, contains a fresco representing the death of the Saint, and executed, not many years since, by Tempesti, in his best manner. The surrounding architectural ornaments are by CiofFo . The Chiesa della Spina exhi- bits monuments of the ancient Pisan school of sculpture, namely, the Madonna, our Saviour, S. John and S. Peter, by Nino, Pi- sano, one of the Revivers of the art ; two figures attributed to Moschino ; and a half-length Ma- donna, by Nino. The Chiesa di S. Andrea in Chinseca contains a valuable monument of the Greco-Pisano school, namely, our Saviour on the cross, which appears to have been done in the thirteenth century. The Chiesa di S. Martino contains a crucifix, by Giunta, Pisano. 1 The Palazzo-Lanfranchi , on 1 The Churches at Pisa contain many Paintings, by old Tuscan masters, which I have not mentioned} and a minute descrip- 97 that side of the Arno called Parte di Mezzo-giorno, was built after the design of Buonaroti. The Palazzo-Tonini contains two paintings, in fresco, from Tasso’s Gerusalemme , begun by Melani, and finished by Tommasi, his scholar. The Palazzo - Lanfreducci, which is incrusted with statuary marble, has a chain, and these words over the door: “ Alla gi- ornala ” — many tales are told in consequence ; but none of them seem sufficiently authenticated to be worth relating. This palace contains a celebrated picture, by Guido, the subject of which is, sacred and profane love, repre- sented by two boys ; perhaps the subject of this picture may have been taken from Plato, who says, there are two Cupids, as different as day and night ; the one pos- sessing every virtue, the other every vice. Casa-Mecherini , on the oppo- site side of the Arno, and called Parte di Tramontana , contains a celebrated Sibyl, by Guercino ; with frescos by Tempesti and Cioffo. The Palazzo-Seta , in Via S. Cecilia , contains frescos by the brothers Melani; as do the Pa- lazzo del Publico and the Palazzo de Priori. In the regal Palace the ceilings are painted with elegance; and the furniture, though plain, is handsome. The Hospitals are spacious ; and the Loggia de Banchi and Casino Nobili , are fine buildings. The University of Pisa was founded by the Emperor Henry tion of them may be found iu Morrcna's History of Pisa. 93 PISA. vi r. ; though in consequence of civil wars, it became almost anni- hilated, till the reign of Cosimo i.; by whom it was re-established on the present plan, in 1543: it has produced as many, if not more, learned men than any other public seminary in Italy. The Torre della Specula , or Observatory, was erected about the year 1735; and is furnished ivitn good instruments. The Botanic Garden was found- ed by Ferdinando, second son of Cosimo i. ; and has been greatly improved by Sig. Santi, one of the Professors of the University ; a Gentleman whose literary pro- ductions do honour both to his head and heart; and whose kind- ness toward the British Nation has ever been such as to command their sincerest gratitude and high- est esteem. There seems little doubt that Pisa was a Roman colony, often visited by the Caesars : and Nero, about the year 57, is said to have made an excursion to this city, with which he was so much pleas- ed, that he embellished it with a magnificent palace and a temple dedicated to Diana , which stood at the entrance of the Lucca-gate. This temple was built in the form of a rotunda ; all of marble with- out; the ceiling being an imita- tion of the starry firmament. The internal decorations consisted of oriental marble columns, with va- rious pieces of sculpture and paint- ing; the pavement was Egyptian marble, and the statue of the goddess stood in its centre. Whe- ther the palace did or did not en- close this temple, is unknown ; but the former is described as being highly ornamented, and of a vast extent, containing baths, gardens, and fish-ponds : and it [ch. v. is added that Nero, in order to have it amply supplied with wa- ter, built the aqueduct of Monti- Pisani, which extended from Cal- dacolli to the Lucca-gate. Such is the account given of Nero’s tem- ple and palace : and it is certain that the buildings of the Hypo- caustum , extended from the Duo- mo to the vicinity of the Monastery of S. Zenone. It is equally certain that foundations of immense build- ings have been discovered in the gardens which now occupy the space between the church of S. Ze- none and the Duomo ; that num- berless pieces of marble are seen in the walls and buildings, which at present stand upon the above- named space ; and two ruins, near the Lucca-gate, one of which has been recently demolished, w r ere evidently parts of the Hypocaus- tmn : these circumstances concur with several others to establish the truth of what I have advanced. The most respectable remains of these antiquities is the Vapour- Bath, situated in a garden close to the Lucca-gate : this bath is an octagon, with four semi-circular niches ; in the upper part of which are terra-cotta tubes of a trian- gular shape. Opposite to the en- trance there appears to have been a place reserved for some marble ornament. The roof forms a semi- circle, and contains eight places to admit light, beside an octagon aperture in the centre. The pave- ment, leading to the great fur- nace, was made of calcistruzzo , with a surface of marble one finger thick, to walk or lie down upon. It is probable that, under this marble pavement, there were vaulted rooms, where the attendants kept up perpetual fires : and some per- sons imagine that under every niche w ere vases filled with water, PISA. 99 CH. V.] which, on being heated by the fires, impregnated the apartments with vapour. Ancient baths al- ways consisted of four apartments, distinguished by the appellations of cold, tepid, hot, and sudatory; and the apartment called tepid, in the men’s bath, always communi- cated with the same apartment in the women’s bath : and there is no doubt that the bath above de- scribed consisted of four apart- ments, as traces of them may yet be discovered. From the appear- ance of the bath now remaining, it seems to have been lined through- out with marble ; and the six Gre- cian columns on the sides of the bronze doors of the Duomo, to- gether with the other two, which ornament the principal door of the Baptistery, are supposed to have been taken from this building. In the garden adjoining to the bath, stood the Monastery of S.Zenone, vulgarly called S.Zeno; of which, however, the Church only re- mains ; and in it are sarcophagi, which, though mutilated and al- most defaced, still possess suffi- cient beauty to make us execrate the hand of avarice or barbarism which has thus destroyed these valuable remains of Grecian sculp- ture. A house, belonging to the noblq family Da Paulle, seems to have been formed out of the ruins of an ancient theatre ; judging from the granite columns of different orders discoverable in the walls. In the suppressed Church of S. Felice are two columns of oriental granite, with capitals adorned by mythological figures, supposed to represent Jupiter, Harpocrates, Diana, Minerva, Isis, Ceres, and Genii. They probably belonged to a Roman temple, on the site of which the church of S. Felice is said to have been erected. The sculpture seems to be of Septimius Seve- rus’s time. The subterranean part of S. Michele in Borgo deserves no- tice ; the pillars and walls are of pietre verrucane , the roof is tufo, and curiously ornamented with arabesques, resembling those which adorn Livia’s baths at Rome, and not unlike, in style, to many of the paintings found in Herculaneum. This building could, not have been a Christian church, because the primitive Christians adorned their churches with no- thing but quotations from Holy Writ ; therefore it must, in aif probability, have been erected pre- vious to the time of Constantine* The Aqueduct of Caldacolli, so called from the hot springs which supply it, is supposed to be that erected by IN ero : eight arches may still be seen at the distance of abou t two hundred yards from the mo- dern baths of Pisa ; and ruins of the whole are discoverable between this spot and the Lucca-gate. No vestiges remain of the an- cient Port of Pisa, mentioned by Strabo : but it is supposed to have been near the mouth of the Arno, and not far from Leghorn. We are told that this port was pro- tected neither by mole nor pier ; and though open to every wind, yet vessels rode securely on its bosom, owing to the size and te- nacity of the weeds, which were so closely interwoven as to exclude the agitation of the sea. Hie modern Baths , situated about three miles and a half to the north of Pisa, are elegant, commo- dious, and surrounded by several goodlodging-houses. These baths, the most celebrated in Italy, have the reputation of being particu- 400 PISA. [ch. v. larly beneficial in gouty cases, and diseases of the liver. Two large fragments of co- lumns with two capitals, which bear marks of remote antiquity, together with several other con- curring circumstances, lead us to imagine these modern baths oc- cupy the same ground with those mentioned by Strabo and Pliny. The Mountain of S. Giuliano , ■which rises immediately above the baths, exhibits some curious ca- verns. The modern Aqueduct , begun by Ferdinando i., and finished by his son, Cosimo n., is a magnifi- cent work, worthy the Princes of the House of Medicis : it com- mences at a village, called As- ciano, and extends to Pisa, a dis- tance of four miles, conveying to that city the most pure and deli- cious water in Europe. The canal , which extends from Pisa to Leghorn, was made by Ferdinando i. The royal Farm , or Cascina , near Pisa, situated in an exten- sive and beautiful forest of cork- trees, ever-green oaks, etc., and washed by the c ea, is worth no- tice; as it contains camels, who, though foreigners, breed here, and are employed as beasts of burden : they are, however, much less nu- merous at present than they were twenty years ago. The Grand Duke, Leopoldo, was the first person who attempted to breed camels in Italy. The nobility of Pisa, and all the gentlemen belonging to the Uni- versity, are remarkably civil and kind to foreigners, the lower clas- ses of people respectful and hu- mane, but exacting. The two principal Hotels in this city are, Le tre Donzelle , and V Ussero , the former of which has the advantage in point of situation, and is, moreover, a tolerably good inn, though by no means so com- fortable as private lodgings on that side of the quay called, Parte di Mezzo-giorno , for, on the op- posite side, and in many of the streets and squares, the houses are damp, and consequently unwhole- some. Travellers should be especially careful to send for the Fountain- Water of Pisa that flows through the Aqueduct ; because the well- water, with which the houses are supplied, is seldom fit either for drinking or even for kitchen use. The Theatre here is capacious, but not elegant. The three Bridges , as I have already mentioned, are handsome, especially the middle one, which is composed of marble and pietra verrucana ; and the mock fight, occasionally exhibited on this bridge, is perhaps almost the only remaining vestige of those martial games heretofore so famous among the Greeks and Romans. The amusement consists in a battle fought by 950 combatants, who, clothed in coats of mail, and armed with wooden clubs, dis- pute, for forty-five minutes, the passage of the bridge. The strong- est combatants possess themselves of the field of battle, and when it is possible to employ stratagem they never let slip the opportu- nity, but to fight in earnest is for- bidden ; nevertheless this mock encounter frequently costs lives, and is, therefore, but seldom permitted, though one of the most beautiful exhibitions in Italy. — Some authors tell us it was insti- tuted by Pelops, son of Tantalus, King of Phrygia ; others think it was established by Nero; while others believe it to have been ori-* CH. V.] PISA. 401 ginally celebrated in memory of the defeat of Musetto, King of Sardinia, which happened in the year 1005, upon a bridge at Pisa : but whoever the institutor might be, the amusement is entered into by the Pisans with a degree of spirit that exceeds all description. 1 There is likewise, every third year, on the 17th of June, a sin- gular and most beautiful illumi- nation here, in honour of S. Ra- nieri. On this night the whole Lung’-Arno appears like an im- mense crescent of magnificent and regularly built palaces, studded with innumerable quantities of dia- monds; some in the Tuscan, others in the Gothic, and others in the grotesque or Chinese style of ar- chitecture (which participates so much of the Egyptian, that many persons believe the Chinese were originally an Egyptian colony). 2 Add to this, the three bridges or- namented by temples blazing with jewels; and such is the scene which Pisa presents to view at this general illumination— no wonder, therefore, that Ariosto is said to have borrowed images from so 1 When a man stands candidate for the honour of being a combatant, he is cased in armour, and then beat for half an hour with wooden clubs ; during which ceremony, should he happen to flinch, or cry out, he is rejected ; but if he do neithex - , he is chosen. splendid and singular an exhibi- tion, which can only be likened to an enchanted city. The immense length and beau- tiful curve of the Pisa-quay contri- bute greatly to the splendour of these two exhibitions, the ground being so shaped that all the spec- tators are seen at once, whether in balconies, carriages, on foot, or in boats upon the river : and the same cause renders the Carnival at Pisa particularly beautiful ; for, during the last week of this whim- sical diversion, the whole quay is filled with masks, from three in the afternoon till the commence- ment of the pastimes at the thea- tre. The Carneia , or Carnival, ap- pears to have been a festivity ob- served in most of the Grecian ci- ties, but especially at Sparta, where it took birth about 675 years be- fore the Christian era, in honour of Apollo, surnamed Carneus. It lasted nine days. The climate of Pisa, during win- ter, is one of the best in Europe, though at other seasons not equally salubrious. 2 The belief that the Chinese were ori- ginally an Egyptian colony, has lately been strengthened by a discovery, in the Cabinet of Medals at Milan, of a Chinese work, con- taining drawings of nearly a thousand an- tique Vases, resembling those called Etruscan , and of Egyptian origin. CHAPTER VI. GENOA, NICE, TURIN, LEGHORN, LUCCA, etc. Excursion from Pisa to Genoa — New Road— Harbour, Fanale, Fortifications, Streets, and Bridge of the latter City— Cathedral, and other Churches— Residenza dei Dogi — Palazzo Durazzo— University — Palazzo-Doria, and other Palaces — Hospitals — Albergo dei Poveri — Theatre — Hotels — Population — Provisions — Climate — Character of the Genoese— Description of Nice, and its Climate — Journey over the Maritime Alps to Turin — Population of that City — Bridge erected by the French — Regal Palace — Cathedral, and other Churches — Theatre— University —Public Garden and Ramparts — Hotels — Climate— Water — Environs — Alessandria — Plain of Marengo— New Road over the Bocchetta— Old Road— Leghorn — Harbour, Light-house, Fortifications, and other objects best worth notice in the Town and its Environs — Inns — Lucca — Population— Cathedral — Other Churches — Palazzo-Publico— Ancient AmphiLheatre — Modern Theatre — Character of the Lucchesi — Seminary founded by the Pi'incess Elise — Inn— Marlia— Bagni di Lucca— Environs of the Bagni— Peasantry— Mode of cultivating this part of the Apcnnine— Villas between the Pistoja to Florence. The road from Pisa to Lerici is tolerably good, during summer, jjut at other seasons travellers fre- quently embark at Via-Reggio ( a small sea-port belonging to the Lucchesi, and famous for the ex- cellence of its fish), going thence either in a deck-vessel or a felucca 1 to Genoa, between which city and Lerici there was only a mule-path when we made this excursion ; the carriage-road, begun long since, is now, however. passable ; though not finished : it lies at the edge of precipices without any fence to guard travellers from accidents ; and through torrents difficult to fiord ; but it commands sublime scenery : and when parapet walls are erected on the height, and bridges thrown over the torrents, (which may probably be accom- plished in the course of two years,) this road will vie in excellence with those of Cenis and the Simplon. At present the only good inns on the new road are La Posta, at 1 A felucca is an open boat, which makes use both of sails and oars, always keeping Baths of Lucca and the City— Road through Pietra Santa ; VEuropa , at La Spezia ; and II Ponte , at Sestri. Between Pisa and Via-Reggio we crossed the Serchio, anciently the Ansa, in a ferry ; finding, at the latter town, a tolerable inn, though unhealthily situated. We then proceeded to Pietra Santa, placed in the neighbour- hood of a marsh, the exhalations from -which are extremely noxious, particularly toward sun-set. The inn here being comfortable, is sometimes preferred, as a sleeping- place, to that atMassa, which can- not be commended; though in point of air and situation, the latter town is infinitely preferable to the for- mer. Not far hence are quarries of Seravezza-marble. Massa, seated m a pleasant valley , near the sea , is small, but well-built ; and contains a handsome Pioyal residence, to- gether with some good pictures in its Churches : and five miles distant from this town is Carrara, whose quarries produce marble, near shore, and, in case of bad weather, running immediately into harbour. GENOA. 403 CH. VI.] perhaps, for the purposes of sculp- ture, the most beautiful in the world ; though, for want of proper care in transporting the blocks, they are frequently split and bro- ken. Carrara contains nearly 3500 inhabitants ; and is built of marble, taken from the adjacent quarries, which are well worth seeing, and where fine crystals are often found: it owes much to its late Sovereign, the Princess Elise, who converted her Palace here into an Academy of Sculpture, richly stored with models, both ancient and modern, and well worth observation. Having passed Lavenza, for- merly Aventia , the Port whence the Carrara-marble is conveyed to every part of Europe, we pro- ceeded to Sarzana, a large town near the site of the ancient Luna ; and on arriving at Lerici, for- merly Ericis-Portus, embarked in a felucca for Genoa ; x coasting the Riviera, and passing Porto- I Yenere, defended by two castles, near which ships go through a narrow strait into the Gulf of Spezia, supposed to have been the Porlus-Lunce of the Romans ; and a peculiarly large and safe har- bour, surrounded with towns, vil- lages, and plantations, abounding in olive-trees, vines, and fruit. Genoa, in Italian Genova, call- ed La Superb a, anciently a city Jof Liguria, and the first w Inch fell under the Roman, yoke, appears to great advantage when viewed i from the sea, about one mile dis- [ tant from the shore ; for, then its | numberless and stately edifices re- present the seats of a vast ain- I philheatre, placed on a declivity 1 of the enormous Apennine. The I J The distance, l>y sea, from Lcrici to [(Genoa, is about twenty leagues; lie price M commonly given for a felucca, from live to I six sequins ; and the lime usually employed fin going, from twelve to fifteen hours ; Harbour of Genoa is capacious and beautiful, but not safe, being too much exposed to the Libecio, or south-west wind. The Fanale , or Light-house, is a lofty tower, built on an isolated rock at the west side of the harbour. The fortifications, toward the sea, ap- pear strong; being cut out of the rocks : but the naval power of this country, once so formidable, seems now reduced to a few gal- leys, chiefly employed in fetching corn from Sicily. Genoa is de- fended by two walls ; one of which immediately encompasses the town, while the other takes in the rising grounds that com- mand it. The streets, three ex- cepted, are not wide enough to admit the use of carriages. The roofs of the houses are flat, and frequently adorned with orange* trees. Here is a fine stone bridge over the Bonzevera, and another over the Bisagno ; the former stream washing the western, the latter the eastern, side of the city. The Cathedral , dedicated to S. Lorenzo, is a Gothic structure, incrusted and paved with marble, and adorned with a Crucifixion, by Barocchio. The bones of S. John Baptist are said to be depo- sited in one of the chapels. The Annunziata , though built at the sole expense of the Lomel- hno family, is one of the most costly churches in Genoa, and contains a fine picture of the Last Supper, by G. C. Procaccino. S. Maria in Carignano , built in obedience to the will of Bendi- nelli Sauli, a noble Genoese, is an elegant piece of architecture ; and though, if there he no wind. or if the wind be contrary. Travellers are compelled to land, for the night, at Portofino ; a pretty, hut comfortless, little fishing-town. 404 GENOA. [CH. Vf. the magnificent bridge, leading to it, was erected by a son of the above-named nobleman. The Church contains a statue of S. Sebastiano, by Puget ; another of the beatified Alessandro Sauli, by the same artist ; and an interest- ing picture of S. Peter and S. John curing the Paralytic, by D. Piola. S. Ambroggio is adorned with three celebrated pictures, name- ly, the Assumption, by Guido — - S. Ignatius exorcising a demoniac, and raising the dead, by Rubens — and the Circumcision, by the same master. S. Domenico contains a picture of the Circumcision, by Procac- cino ; and the ceiling of the Sanc- tuary is by Cappuccino. S. Filippo Fieri is a handsome church ; the ceiling of which was painted by Franeeschini; and in the Oratory is a statue of the Ma- donna, by Puget. S, Malieoy built by the Doria family, contains sepulchral monu- ments, by Mont-Orsoli ; a high- akar of Florentine work; and, behind it, a much admired Pi eta. S. Giovanni in Vecchio is a- dorned with a picture, by Yan- dyck. S. Francesco di Caste He to con- tains a celebrated picture, by Tintoretto ; together with bronze statues and bassi-riiievi , by Gio- vanni di Bologna. S. Stefano a lie Porte contains a picture representing the Mar- tyrdom of S. Stephen, the upper part painted by Giulio Romano, the lower part by Raphael. The Rezidencia dei Dogi is a 1 arge unornamen ted modem build- ing, erected in consequence of a fire, which consumed the ancient edifice. The great hall is magni- ficent in point of size ; and once contained statues, in marble v persons eminent for their libera- lity to the public : but revolution- ary frenzy destroyed these statues. The Arsenal, in this palace, con- tains the prow of an ancient Ro- man galley ; its length being about three spans, and its greatest thick- ness two thirds of a foot ; it was discovered in 1597, in conse- quence of the harbour being clean- ed. Here, likewise, is the armour of several Genoese ladies, who joined a crusade to the Holy Land, in 4301. The Palazzo-Durazzo (Slrada- Balbi) contains noble rooms splen- didly furnished, and a large col- lection of pictures, among which are celebrated works of Yandyck and Rubens, and the Magdalene at Our Saviour’s feet, by Paolo Y eronese ! ! The University is a fine build- ing; and contains, in its Yestibule, two Lions of marble, which are much admired. The Palazzo-Doria (Strada- Nuova) is a magnificent edifice in point of architecture. The Palazzo-Rosso contains fine pictures ; among which are three Portraits, by Yandyck — Judith pulling the Head of Holo- fernes in a bag, by Paolo Vero- nese *— an old Man reading, by Spagnoletlo — the Madonna, by Capuccino — the Adoration of the Shepherds, by Bassano- — Our Sa- viour in the Garden of Olives, by the same — Clorinda delivering the Christians, by Caravaggio' — the Resurrection of Lazarus, by the same— -Cleopatra, by Guereino — and several works, both in paint- ing and sculpture, by Parodi. The Palazzo-Rrignole , oppo- site to the Palazzo-Rosso, con- tains fine pictures. The Palazzo-Serra boasts a C&. vi.] GENOA— NICE. 105 saloon, deemed one of tlie most town in general : its environs, sumptuous apartments in Europe, however, are exempt from this The Palazzo-Carega was built defect; and display a delightful after the design of Buonaroti ; as union of grandeur and cheerful- vvas the Palazzo-Pallavicino, at ness ; the whole road to Sestri, a Zerbino. distance of six miles, exhibiting The great Hospital is a noble one continued line of villas, near- establishment for the Sick of all ly equal, in size and elegance, to nations ; and likewise for Found- the palaces within the city, lings ; the boys remaining till Genoa contains good Hotels ; 1 they are able to work; the girls and its population, including the still longer. The number of sick inhabitants of San Pietro d’ Are- received into this hospital has fre- na, is supposed to amount to eighty quently exceeded one thousand ; thousand. and the number of foundlings An Italian proverb says of this three thousand. city, “ that it has sea without fish. The Hospital o f Incurables land without trees, and men with- likewise is a noble establish- out faith the provisions, how- ment. ever, not excepting fish, are ex- The Albergo dei Poveri, per- cellent ; but the wine is bad, and haps the most magnificent hospi- the climate by no means a good tal in Europe, stands upon a lofty one. The country, though (like eminence ; and was founded by a Italy in general) thinly wooded, nobleman of the Brignoli-family, is, in, some parts, romantic and to serve as an asylum for upwards of a thousand persons, from age and other causes, reduced to want, their Ligurian ancestors. The Chapel is handsome, and The nobles are ill educated, contains a basso-relievo, by Buo- and seldom fond of literature : naroti, of the Madonna contem- they rarely inhabit the best apart- plating the dead body of Our Sa- ments of their superb palaces ; viour ! and here, likewise, is an but are said to like a splendid Assumption, in marble, by Puget, table: though their chief gratifi- The Theatre of S. Agostino is cation has always consisted in much admired, with respect to its amassing wealth for the laudable architecture; as, indeed, are a purpose of expending it on public considerable number of buildings, works and public charities, which I have not enumerated ; The common people are active but, though no city of Italy boasts and industrious ; and the velvets, so many splendid edifices as Ge- damasks, and artificial flowers of noa, though all these edifices are Genoa have long been celebrated, built of marble, and though the Hence, to Nice, there is a bri- Strada*Nuova, the Strada-Novis- dle-road, which traverses a de- sima, and the Strada-Balbi, are lightful country ; and from Genoa strikingly magnificent, the nar- to Finale, and again from Yenli- rowness of the other streets, and miglia to Nice there is a carriage- tlie want of spacious squares, road; but, as the inns are bad, gives an air of melancholy to the we preferred hiring a felucca w ith i L' Hotel d’ Europe, which is excellent; L' Albergo di Londra; La Croce di Malta j and Le Qualtri Nasioni. 106 MARITIME ALPS. [ch. vi. ten oars, and pursuing our excur- sion by sea. 1 The first night we reached One- glia, a small town occupied chiefly by fishermen ; and the second night we arrived at Nice. This city is seated in a small plain, bounded on the west by the Var, anciently called the Varus , which divides it from Provence; on the south by the Mediterranean, which washes its walls and on the north by that chain of Alps called Maritimce , which seems designed by nature to protect Italy from the invasions of her Gallic Neighbours. The citadel of Mont-Albano overhangs the town; and the Paglion, a torrent which descends from the adjacent mountains, separates it from what is called the English quarter, and runs into the sea on the west. The situation of Nice is cheer- ful ; the walks and rides are pretty ; the lodging-houses nu- merous and tolerably convenient ; the eatables good and plentiful; and the wine and oil excellent : but the near neighbourhood of the Alps, and the prevalence of that searching wind, called vent de bise, render the air frequently cold, and even frosty, during win- ter and spring; while, in summer, the heat is excessive. 2 From Nice we set out to cross the Maritime Alps to Turin, by a most excellent and wonderful road, constructed during the reign, of Victor-Amadeus-Maria, King of Sardinia (who was seventeen years in completing it) ; and late- ly altered and improved by the 1 The usual price for a ten-oared felucca, from Genoa to Nice, is about ten sequius. 2 The principal inns at Nice are, L’Holel de York, Le Dauphin, and La Paste. 3 This road, as constructed by Victor- Amadeus, was always passable for carriages French ; especially between Nice and Scarena. 3 After driving about five miles on the banks of the Paglion, we began to ascend the mountain of Scarena; reaching the village of that name in less than three hours. We then proceeded, for nearly two hours and a half, up a moun- tain composed of red, grey, and white marble, and, on arriving at its summit, were presented with a view of Sospello, lying at our feet, and apparently not half a mile distant ; yet so lofty was the mountain we were upon, that we had nine miles to go ere we could reach Sospello. This village, built on the banks of the Paglion, and surrounded with iVlps, contains two tolerable inns. Hence we proceeded up the mountain of Sospello, which, being loftier than Scarena, exhibited a road more wonderful than that we had already passed, winding through immense rocks of marble, some of which were blown up with gunpowder, in order to make room for carriages. Near Sos- pello stands an ancient Roman castle ; but, what seems extraor- dinary, the old Roman road over these Maritime Alps is no where discoverable. After ascending for three hours, we reached the sum- mit of the mountain; and then descended, in less than one hour, to La Chiandoia ; a romantic vil- lage, situated at the brink of a brawling torrent, and adorned by cascades gushing from jagged rocks of a stupendous height. We slept at La Chiandoia ; where the inn is tolerably good ; and next at certain seasons of the year, and not only passable, but excellent : if I recollect right, the above-named Prince was the first person who ever attempted makiDg a carriage-road over tire great Alps. ♦ MARITIME ALPS. cn. vi.] 107 morniDg set out early for Tenda. To describe the road between this town and La Chiandola is impossible : neither do I think it in the power of imagination to picture such scenery as we beheld. Our ascent was gradual, by the side of the already-named torrent; w hich, from rushing impetuously over enormous masses of stone, forms itself into an endless variety of cascades : while the stupendous rocks, through which this road is pierced, from their immense height, grotesque shapes, and verdant clothing, added to the beautiful water-falls with which they are embellished, present one of the most awfully magnificent grottoes that the masterly hand of nature ever made. Through this grotto we travelled for a consi- derable number of miles, sur- rounded by mountains, whose summits the eye cannot reach ; though sometimes a brilliant mass of snow, which we guessed to be the peak of an Alp, appeared hanging, as it were, in the sky ; but clouds always rested upon, and eclipsed the middle-part. Sud- denly, however, we beheld, sus- i pended in the air (for such really i was its appearance) a large for- tified Castle; and, soon afterward, on turning a point, we discovered the town of Saorgio, built in the shape of an amphitheatre, and ap- parently poised between earth and heaven ; while the lower part of I the rocks exhibited such woods of cliesnut as, to English Travel- | lers, appear equally uncommon I and beautiful. After this, we were continually presented with | convents, hermitages, remains of I castles, and old Roman causeys, till our arrival at Tenda ; which ■jis situated under an immense Alp (i(of the same name), computed to be eight thousand feet in height ; and over the summit of which lies the road. Tanda is a sombre- looking town, resembling what Poetry would picture as the world’s end : for the cloud-capped moun- tain behind it seems to say, “Thou shaft proceed no further.” It is prudent to pass the Col-di-Tenda before mid-day ; because, at that time, there generally rises a wind very inconvenient to Travellers. This passage, since the improve- ments made in the road by the French, seldom occupies above five hours ; though, formerly, it took up nearly double that time ; we, therefore, left Tenda at eight o’clock, that we might reach the summit of the ascent by eleven ; and this was easily accomplished. On first setting out we were pre- sented with picturesque prospects embellished by bold cascades. When we had proceeded about three parts up the mountain, the air became chilly ; and we per- ceived, by the fog which enve- loped us, that we were passing through clouds ; these, on attain- ing the summit, we found our- selves considerably above ; and here the cold was intense. The top of this vast Alp exhibits a barren rock, whence we descried Mont-Viso, with other Alps jslill more lofty ; and at our feet Li- mone, seated in a valley through which rushes a torrent formed by snow from the Col-di-Tenda. Limone contains a tolerable inn. Hence the road runs parallel with one of those streams which ferti- lize this wild part of 1'iedmont, till it enters the luxuriant plain in which stands Coni; a finely si- tuated town, whose fortifications were once deemed impregnable. Here we slept at the post-house ; proceeding, next day, to Savi- 108 gliano, and struck by the change of scenery ; rich and tame cultiva- tion succeeding to the sublime and beautiful wildness of the Alps. Savigliano is a large town, with a tolerable inn. Hence we drove to Carignnno, through one of the most fruitful valleys imaginable ; and after having stopped to dine at the latter place, proceeded to Turin. This city, seated in a spacious plain loaded with mulberries, vines and corn, and watered by the f; rivers Po and Dora (the former '-4 of which was anciently called Bo- dinco , or bottomless) , is approach- ed by four fine roads shaded with forest-trees ; while the surround- ing hills are covered with hand- some edifices, pre-eminent among which towers the magnificent church of La Superga. Turin was named Augusta Taurinorum , by Augustus, when he made it into a Roman colony; before which period it was the capital of the Taurini, a Gallic tribe : the modern walls, or ram- par Is, are about four miles round, and contain a population of 88,000 persons : the citadel, a particu- larly fine fortress, which the French nearly destroyed, is now rebuilding. The streets, which are wide, straight, and clean, in- tersect each other at right angles ; so that on one particular spot, in the middle of the town, they may all be seen at once, issuing, like rays, from a common centre. The Strada del Po, the Strada-Nuova, and the Strada del Dora-Grande, are very handsome; so are the Piazza del Castello, and the Piazza di S. Carlo ; each being adorned with porticos : and the Bridge thrown by the French over the Po, is one of the most [ch. VI. beautiful pieces of architecture of its kind in Europe. The regal Palace contains an equestrian statue of Amadeus i. ; magnificent suites of apartments ; and a valuable collection of pic- tures ; among which is a portrait of Charles i. of England — the Children of Charles i., with a Dog- — and a Prince of the House of Carignano on horseback— all byVandyck — Homer, represented as a blind Improvvisatore. by Mu- rillo — the prodigal Son, by Guer- cino — and Cattle, by Paul Potter. The Cathedral merits notice, on account of one of its Chapels, called La Cappella di S. Suda- rio, built after the designs of Guarini. The Chiesa di S. Filippo Neri is a fine edifice in point of archi- tecture, built after the designs of Giuvara, Torinese; and contains a superb high-altar and baldac- chino. The Chiesa di S. Christina con- tains a statue of S. Teresa; deemed the chef-d’ ceuvre of Le Gros. The Teatro di Carignano is handsome; and the gran Teatro is one of the largest and most beautiful buildings of its kind existing. The University contains a fine statue of Cupid, supposed to be Grecian sculpture — a very va- luable ancient mosaic pavement— the celebrated Isiac Table, found at Mantua, and one of the most precious monuments extant of Egyptian antiquity ! — together wilh sacrificial Yases — Lamps — Medals, etc. The public Garden, and the Ramparts, are delightful prome- nades; and were it not for a want of correctness and simplicity in the structure and decorations of TURIN. ASTI— ALESSANDRIA . 109 ea. vi. the principal edifices, Turin would be one of the most beautiful towns in Europe, Here are good Hotels ; 1 good shops (where the manufactures of the country, namely, velvets, silks, silk stockings, tapestry, por- celain, chamois-leather-gloves, etc. are sold ) ; a good market for eatables, and good wine : but the fogs which invariably prevail, dur- ing autumn and winter, make the idimate, at those seasons, un- wholesome : and the foul and noxious water, too frequently found in the wells and reservoirs of this city, often proves even a greater evil than the fogs : there is, however, before the Po-Gate, near the Capuchin-convent, a well of excellent water . 2 The objects best worth notice in the environs of Turin are : Valentino, where there is a public Garden — La Villa della Regina, which commands a fine view — Camaldoli , the road to which is ■very romantic — La Superga (five miles distant from the city), a magnificent church, where rest the ashes of the Sardinian Kings ; and La Veneria , a royal Villa, containing good paintings, and a fine orangery. The ruins of the ancient town of Industria are not far distant from Turin. Wishing to pass the Bocchetta , 3 one of the loftiest mountains of the Apennine, we quitted Turin by the magnificent new Bridge al- ready mentioned ; and travelled 1 L'Albcrgo dell’ Univcrso — L'Europa —La Buona Donna, etc. 2 Travellers, before they quit Turin, are >bliged to have their Passports examined md signed at the Police Office; and likewise by the Austrian Ambassador, if they design ;oing beyond the Sardinian territories. For ,he fatter signature four francs and a half, ber Passport, are demanded. v3 Since I took this journey, the new Route on a good and pleasant road, em- bellished with fine views of the Po and the Alps, to Asti ; a large town, seated amidst vineyards which produce the best wine in Piedmont. Asti, supposed to contain above ten thousand inhabitants, is en- circled with extensive walls in a ruinous condition : and of the hundred towers, for which it once was famous, scarce thirty remain ; and even these seem nodding to their fall. The people here are poor, because inclined to idleness ; and the town, generally speaking, has a sombre aspect, that quarter excepted where the nobility re- side, and where the buildings are handsome. Asti boasts the honour of containing the paternal man- sion of the Conte Vittorio A lfieri, the greatest, and almost the only distinguished tragic Poet modern Italy overproduced. The t>uomc 9 here , has been lately erected, and merits notice ; as do the Churches of S. Secondo , and the Madonna della Consolata , and likewise that of S. Bartolommeo dei Benedet- tini, on the outside of the walls . 4 On.quitting Asti we crossed the Stironne, traversed a beautiful vale richly clothed with grain; and after having passed the village of Annone, were presented with a particularly fine view of the Po. We then passed Felizzano and Solera, and approached the Fortress of Alessandria through a road in some places sandy, but otherwise good. of Val di Scrivia has been opened; a liappy circumstance for Travellers; as the new Road is excellent, and in consequence of its low- situation exempt from those dangerous storms which frequently visit the Bocchetta : beside which, the old road is so rough that no car- riage, not particularly strong, can pass over it without injury. 4 Asti contains two very tolerable inns; namely , La Rosa Ross a, and 11 Leone d'Oro. 110 ALESSANDRIA, etc. [ch. vi» Alessandria, seated in the midst of an extensive plain, and watered by the Tanaro, is a handsome town, particularly celebrated for the sieges it has sustained, for the strength of its citadel, per- haps the finest in Europe, and for a magnificent Bridge covered from end to end, and equally re- markable for its length, height, and solidity. The Sluices of the Tanaro merit notice ; the Piazza d’Armi is spacious : and the regal Palace, the Governor’s House, the Churches of S. Alessandro, and S. Lorenzo, the new Theatre, and the Ramparts, are usually vi- sited by travellers. This town, (which contains about eighteen thousand inhabitants and two Hotels), 1 was anciently called Alexandria Stalelliorum ; but has, in modern days, acquired the ludicrous appellation of Ales- sandria della Paglia ; partly owing to a fable, importing that the Emperors of Germany were in former times crowned here, with a straw diadem ; and partly because the inhabitants, being destitute of wood, are supposed to bake their white bread with straw. On quitting Alessandria, we crossed the Tanaro, and immedi- ately re-entered the above-named plain; called, on this side, that of Marengo ; and famous for the decisive victory gained here, by Napoleon, over the Austrians. No ground canbe better calculated for the strife of armies than this plain ; which is not only exten- sive but flat , and equally devoid of trees and fences ; though either in consequence of judicious culti- vation, or the quantity of human 1 L’Albergo Reale Vecchio d’ Italia, and L'Albergo 2V uov o d' Italia; the former ex- cellent. blood with which the soil has been fertilized, it bears abundance of fine corn. A quarter of a league distant from Alessandria we cross- ed the Bormida, a large and ra- pid torrent; and, half a league further on, passed the hamlet of Marengo. One public-house on this plain is still called The Torre di Marengo , and another, The Al - - bergo di lunga fama ; but the column, surmounted by an eagle, and placed on the spot where Des- saix fell, is now to be seen no more. At Marengo we quitted the route which leads to Parma ; and proceeded through a good, though , in some parts, a narrow road, to Novi; seeing, by the way, the Domenican Abbadia del Bosco, adorned with a few good paint- ings, and some sculpture ; the lat- ter by Buonaroti. Novi, placed among vineyards at the base of the Apennine, con- tains six thousand inhabitants, several magnificent houses, which belong to rich Genovesi, who spend the autumn here ; and two comfortable inns ; 2 it is, there- fore, the best sleeping-place be- tween Turin and Genoa, both on account of the last-named cir- cumstance, and likewise from being situated about midway. One tower of the old Castle of Novi alone remains, standing on an eminence, and remarkable for its height. After driving through the vine- yards, orchards , and chesnut- groves, near Novi, we penetrated into the heart of the Apennine, by a road somewhat resembling a saw ; traversing ancient water- courses and narrow defiles to Gavi, a town which contains one 2 V A bergo Reale in Via-Ghirardenghi, and La Posta, beyond the town, on the way to Genoa. ill THE BOCCHETTA. €H. VI.] thousand six hundred inhabitants and a good hotel. The castle here is proudly sealed on a rock, for the defence of the pass : and, according to report, was never taken. Yoltaggio, the next town, and where the present passage of theBocchetta commences, is near- ly equal in population to Gavi ; and contains two good inns. Hence the road passes through a defile, sometimes surrounded with chesnut- woods, at others exhibiting bad pasturages bor- i dered by the Lemino, and ho- vels the very .picture of wretched- ness ; though erected on blocks of beautiful and costly marble, with which this part of the A pen- nine abounds. The women who inhabit these hovels, are of low stature, with thick legs, broad feet, large throats, and frequently goitrous swellings : the children look unhealthy, and seem to be wholly occupied by watching pigs and goals, and following mules and carriages, to collect dung for manure : the food of these poor mountaineers is chesnut- bread, hog’s-lard, and snow-water : and when the chesnuts fail, famine ensues. As we advanced toward the Col, we found the hovels lessen in number ; and at length saw no vestige of any habitation except a guard-house on an iso- > la ted rock, where, during the pe- riod when this passage was in- fested by banditti, soldiers were stationed to protect travellers. On gaining the summit of the Bocchetta we were presented with a view of the beautiful valley of lPolcevera, terminated by the city | of Genoa and the Mediterranean t 1 Between Turin and Genoa, a carriage livith two places and four wheels goes, gene- rally speaking, with two horses only, ac- I coaling to the tariff; hut the postmasters Sea : and the rich cultivation ex- hibited in this valley, by the per- severing industry of the Geno- vesi, produces a most delightful contrast to the savage and barren aspect of the northern side of the Apennine. The descent for two leagues to Campo-Marone is, in some places, very rapid; but thence to Genoa the road con- structed by a Doge of the Canri- biaso family is excellent : it lies on the left bank of the PolcevCra, amidst villas , villages, orange and olive gardens, cypresses, and that most beautiful of all Italian trees, the round-topped maritime stone pine, at length entering the city by the magnificent Faubourg of San Pietro d Arena. 1 Having procured a bill of health at Genoa, which is always neces- sary on quitting this town by sea, we again embarked in a felucca ; and were fortunate enough, on the second evening of our voyage, to reach the harbour of Leghorn. 2 The island of Gorgona, and the rock, called Meloria, are both situ- ated on the right side of the en- trance into this fine harbour, which is divided into two parts, that furthest from the shore being defended against the violence of the sea by a pier ; though large ves- sels anchor in the roads, about two miles from the pier-bead. The Light-house is built upon an iso- lated rock in the open sea. Leghorn, in Italian Livorno, the nurse-child of the House of Medi- cis, called by the ancients, Libur - nus Portus , and formerly subject to Genoa, was the first tree port established in the Mediterranean : and this political establishment. often put on three horses; though travel- lers do not pay any thing extra in conse- quence. 2 We paid for our felucca twelve sequins. 112 LEGHORN the work of Cosimo i.,who ex- changed the episcopal city of Sar- zano for the then unimportant vil- lage of Leghorn, soon rendered the latter a place of great conse- quence : and by cutting several canals, and encouraging cultiva- tion, he, in-some measure, destroy- ed the noxious vapours which naturally proceeded from a loose and marshy soil. Leghorn, to per- sons unskilled in the art of war, seems strongly fortified : but va- rious circumstances, I am told, would prevent it from being te- nable long, whether attacked by land or sea. This city is two miles in circumference, and contains 60,000 inhabitants, 20,000 of whom are said to be Jews ; its ramparts are handsome ; and the high-street, from its breadth and straightness, from the richness of its shops, and, still more, from the motley crowd of all nations with which it is constantly filled, pre- sents a picture equally singular and pleasing. The great square is spa- cious ; and the Duomo is a noble edifice, designed by Vasary : this Church — the Jews' Synagogue, (one of the finest in Europe) — the Church of the united Greeks— the Monte, or Bank — Micali's Shop — the Coral Manufacture — the great Printing-House — the Ope- ra-House — the four Slaves in bronze , by Pietro Tacca, chained to the pedestal of the statue of Fer- dinando i., which stands in the Dock-yard, and was done by Gio- vanni del Opera — the Lazzaretti — the Campo-Santo — the English Burial-ground — the new Aque- duct, not yet completed, which is to bring wholesome water to the city from the mountains of Colog- 1 The Albergo di S. Marco, kept hy Thomson, and a good inn — The Croce d’Qrci and The Croce di Malta , —LUCCA. [ch. vf. nole (twelve miles distant) — and the Church of the Madonna di Montenero, are the objects best worth notice in Leghorn and its environs. Here are several inns : 1 and the English Factory have a Protestant Chapel. From Leg- horn we proceeded, by land, through part of the forest of Arno, to Pisa/ a distance of fourteen Tuscan miles ; though persons who prefer water-carriage may go by the Canal, from the one city to the other. At Pisa we directed our course to Lucca, traversing an excellent road. 2 Lucca, called L’ Indus trio sa, is beautifully situated, about twelve Tuscan miles from Pisa, in a luxu- riant valley, encircled by the Apennine, and watered by the Serchio : it is defended by eleven bastions of brick, and ramparts, which, from being planted with forest-trees, give this little city the appearance of a fortified wood with a watch-tower in its centre : the edifice which resembles the latter being the cathedral. The ramparts are three miles in circumference ; and form a delightful promenade, either on foot or in a carriage. Previous to the French revolution the word “ Libertas" was inscrib- ed on the Pisa-gate : this inscrip- tion, however, no longer exists : but, nevertheless, it is impossible to enter Lucca without feeling high respect for a town which, even during the plenitude of Ro- man despotism, maintained its own laws, and some degree of liberty ; and which, since that pe- riod, till very recently, always continued free. The territory contains about four hundred square miles, and about 120,000 2 Here there is an Austrian Custom-house, at which I was called upon to pay four panl^ for a four- wheeled carriage with two horses., LUCCA. 413 CH. VI. people. Caesar wintered at Luc- ca after his third campaign in Gaul : and, according to Appian of Alexandria, all the magistrates of Rome came to visit him ; inso- much that two hundred Roman Senators were seen before his door at the same moment : which circumstance proves Lucca to have been, at that period, a large city. The streets are broad, well- paved, and clean; but irregular. The Cathedral. , erected in 1070, though unpromising without, is a fine Gothic building within ; and contains, on the right of the great door, the tomb of Adalbert, sur- named 4 4 The Rich,” who lived in the beginning of the tenth cen- tury; and was, according to Mu- ratori, the Progenitor of the Princes of Este, and the House of Brunswick Hanover, now So- vereigns of Great Britain. The famous Countess Matilda was a descendant from the above-named Adalbert; and this Princess, the daughter of a Duke of Lucca, who died in 1052, reigned over i Tuscany, Lombardy, andLiguria, I maintaining desperate wars, for thirty successive years, against the Schismatics and Anti-Popes ; till, I at length, she drove the Emperor, Henry iv., out of Italy, and re- stored to the Church its ancient i possessions. But to return to the i Cathedral : this edifice is adorn- ed with paintings, by Coli and Sancasciani, Lucchesi ; a picture, by Zuccari ; another, by Tinto- retto; statues of the four Evan- t gelists, by Foncelli ; a celebrated I crucifix, called the Vo to Santo; I fine painted glass windows, and t a beautiful inlaid marble pave- J ment. S. Maria , called La Chiesa dell U mi ltd, contains a good pic- ; lure, by Titian. The Chiesa di S. Ponziano con- tains two good paintings, by Pie- tro Lombardo. The Palazzo Publico , built by Ammannato and Filippo Giuvara, is embellished with the works of Luca Giordano, Albert Durer, Guercino, etc. — and in the Ar- moury are several ancient hel- mets, the smallest of which our courier, an athletic man, attempt- ed to put on his head ; but found himself scarcely able to lift it — so much is human strength dege- nerated ! Remains of the ancient Amphi- theatre are discoverable on the spot called Prigioni vecchie. The modern Theatre is small, but pretty. The police of Lucca has long been famed for its excellence. The upper ranks of people are opulent, learned, and well-in- clined ; the mechanics (instructed by their late Sovereign, the Prin- cess Elise), display great taste and expertness in making household furniture ; the lower ranks of peo- ple possess more integrity of cha- racter, with a stronger sense of religion, than is common now, either in Roman Catholic or Pro- testant countries ; and the pea- sants are the most industrious and skilful husbandmen of southern Italy. Lucca contains a Seminary , founded by the Princess Elise, for the education of an hundred young ladies, beside children of bumble birth : and this Princess had likewise taken measures to establish an Institute, for the en- couragement of arts and sciences, when she was called upon to re- linquish her throne. The Pantera is the best inn at Lucca. Travellers who enter this city l 2 114 ROAD TO THE BAGNI DI LUCCA. [oh. vr. with post-horses are compelled to quit it in the same manner. The surrounding country is rich in villas ; and that called Marlia , on the way to the Baths of Lucca, particularly merits notice; as it was built by the Princess Elise, is furnished with peculiar elegance, and stands in a beautiful garden. 1 The road from Lucca to this villa, a distance of between four and five miles, is excellent ; and hence to the Bagni-caldi (about eight aniles), equally good : it winds al- most constantly by the side of the Serchio ; and is cut through rocks clothed with olives and chesnuts, and adorned with convents, villas, and cottages. Nothing can be more romantic than this drive ; and, on the way, are three extra- ordinary bridges ; the first con- sisting of two immense arches, not in a straight line with each other, but forming, in the centre, a considerable angle ; neither do these arches support a level road : on the contrary, you ascend one arch, and descend it again; you then come to an angle of flat ground; after which you ascend the other arch, and descend that, till you reach a smaller arch, which brings you to the opposite shore of the Serchio. The height of this bridge we could not pre- cisely ascertain ; but, judging from, the eye, it is nearly equal to that of Augustus at Narni. The second bridge is similar to the first ; but the third, which consists of only one large arch, is by far the lol- 1 The Empress Maria Louisa visited this Villa, not many years since; slept here, and ordered every thing to be in readiness for her departure at four o’clock the next morn- ing: she, however, lingered in the Marlia- gallery (apparently lost in thought), till ten o’clock ; and then, -with great reluctance, went away. Her Son’s bust is at Marlin; and, if like him, he must have a countenance replete with sense and animation, and bearing a strong resemblance to his Father. tiest ; and, according to oral tra- dition, was the work of the Devil ; who seems to have been, in the opinion of the Italians, a great ar- chitect ; for every extraordinary building is attributed to him. Other accounts, however, say, these bridges were erected by the Countess Matilda : and one of the postilions, who drove us to the Bagni, told me, they were built soon after the year 1000 — an ex- traordinary circumstance that he should have been so accurate a chronologist ! — but the common people of Italy are well-informed respecting the history of their country ; and, moreover, so fond of its poets, as frequently to know their works by heart. The Bagni-caldi di Lucca are situated on the side of a romantic and picturesque mountain, thick- ly clothed with chesnut-woods ; where, during summer, the walks are delightful. The Bagni della Villa are in the plain, near the banks of the Lima ; and the late Sovereign, by making a fine road to these Baths, and inducing her own family to frequent them, has converted a secluded village into a gay public place. At the Bagni- caldi there is one lodging-house, which accommodates from twelve to fourteen families ; 2 another, which accommodates three fami- lies ; 3 several small lodgings ; a coffee - house, and a cassino ; where, during the season, there is a ball every Sunday night. These baths, therefore, to persons 2 In this house, which belongs to the Abate Lena, families may either have kitchens to themselves, or employ the Traiteur who resides under the same roof. 3 This house belongs to an excellent Trai- teur , called Johachino ; who furnishes the tables of his Lodgers: his third floor, which is the best, was let in 1817 lor thirty sequins a month ; and his other floors for eighteen or twenty sequins each. 115 BAGNI DI LUCCA. CH. VI.] very fond of socieiy, must be an eligible summer situation. At the Bagni della Villa there are several good lodging houses ; some of which accommodate two or three families, others only one ; and here the mother of the Princess Elise used to reside . 1 At the Ponte-Seraglio, near the Bagni- caldi, there are lodging-houses ; but these, generally speaking, are inhabited by persons of the se- cond rank. The usual Promenade here is between the Bagni della Villa and the Ponte-Seraglio, on a dusty road; while a delightful drive, made by the Government, under the wood on the opposite side of the river, is totally neglected. The season commences with July and ends with August ; though June and September are months better calculated for the examination of this beautiful spot, which is one of the coolest sum- mer abodes of southern Italy. Provisions here are not exor- bitant in price, even during the season ; but good table-wine and good butchers’ meat, except veal, are difficult to procure ; and fruit, except Alpine strawberries, cher- ries, and wild raspberries, is nei- ther very fine nor very plenti- ful. Lovers of botany should visit, during the month of June, the L Prato Fiorito, near these Baths ; which is, at the above-named time, enamelled with a larger number and a greater variety of 'flowers than fall to the share, perhaps, of any other spot exist- 1 Tho best apartment in the bouse of the Signora Lena, at the Bagni della Villa, was flet in 1817 for thirty sequins a month : the first floor in the house of Sig. G. B. del Chiappa llbr twenty-eight sequins a month; and the Ijsecond floor tor eighteen or twenty sequins. Ivasa-Ainbrogio, Casa-Nohile, Casa-Bonvisi, and Casa- Rossi, arc good, lodging-houses; the ing . 2 The best way of seeing this garden of Flora is to set out at an early hour, going by Col- trone, and returning by Monte- Villa, near which several of the chesnut-trees are of so extraor- dinary a size that they would be fit subjects for landscape-painters to study. The modes of con- veyance to the Prato Fiorito are various; ponies and donkies may be easily procured . but people, in general, prefer being carried by Fortentini; of whom there is a considerable number at the Baths : three men are requisite for each chair ; and their usual pay is five pauls a man, with bread, common wine, and cheese of the country for dinner, wherever the party like to stop ; which is generally at the foot of the Prato Fiorito ; there being, in this place, a spring of good water. Another pleasant excursion may be made in the same man- ner, from the Bagni della Villa to Ponte Nero : the best way of going is to cross the Lima on the Ponte Nuovo, keeping on the far side of the river the whole way ; and then returning by Palleggio ; as that village, together with the hamlets of Cocciglia and Gosoli di Vai di Lima, lonn a beautiful and most romantic prospect. The party should dine near this spot ; and then go back to the Baths by the Palleggio side of the ri- ver, as far as the wooden bridge of La Fabbrica ; where they should cross to the other side. A guide well acquainted with the country is requisite for this ex- last is that in which the Mother of the late Sovereign formerly lived. 2 Tradition reports that, on this eminence, there once stood a temple dedicated to ASscu- . lapius ; whose Priests are supposed to hare cultivated round the edifice a large number of flowers ; which chance has perpetuated to the present day. i\ 6 cursion, and may be procured at the Baths. Loiano, likewise, from its sin- gular situation, is worth visiting. The peasantry of these moun- tains are an honest and indus- trious people : the little land they possess is cultivated with the ut- most care, and in the neatest manner; but does not yield suf- ficient food for the numerous in- habitants of this part of the Duchy of Lucca ; who are, there- fore compelled, like many other natives of the Apermine, to live chiefly on bread made of ches- nuts ; and when these fail, the consequence is dreadful; as was exemplified lately , when hundreds perished from want ; while those who survived had no sustenance but beans boiled with grass, and herbs collected on the mountains : and yet there was no rioting, no murmuring, no complaint — the famishing peasants prayed to Heaven for relief, and awaited with resignation the approach of better days. The vices and crimes which disgrace more opu- lent countries are little known amongst these innocent peasants, whose probity and piety are equally exemplary . 1 The mode of cultivating this part of the Apennine is beautiful : at the commencement of each as- cent vines are dressed on terraces cut in the side of the hill; wheat being sown between every two rows of vines : above these there 1 The Rector of the parish in which the Bagni di Lucca are situated, told a friend of mine, that, after a residence of twenty years among his parishioners, who amount to above eight hundred people, he had never heard of the commission of one theft, neither had he heard of more than three children born out of wedlock. 2 The female peasants often manufacluro a silk, for their own wear, from the hags ef those silk- worms which are allowed to work their way out, in order to produce eggs for the ensuing year. The costume of the infe- [CH. VI. frequently is an olive garden ; and on the more elevated parts of the hill are chesnuts. Mountains are sold here not by measurement, but from a calcu- lation respecting the number of sacks of chesnuts they usually produce. The landlord receives two-thirds of the chesnuts which are collected; and half of the other crops. The richer grounds in the plain produce hemp, from which much coarse cloth, and some of a finer sort, is manufac- tured ; and every peasant has a stock of silk-worms . 2 Wheat is usually cut about Midsummer ; and immediately carried off the fields; which are, on the same day, sown with Indian corn ; and this comes up in a week, and is fit to be cut in October. In many places rows of Indian corn and French beans, called scarlet run- ners, are planted alternately ; the former serving as a support to the latter . 3 On our return from the Baths of Lucca, we noticed, between that romantic spot and the city, several villas, with gardens, pos- sessing shady walks ; a comfort seldom found in southern Italy: and, on inquiry, I learnt, that the owners of these habitations were usually glad to let them to re- spectable tenants, from May till the end of September. Having traversed the beautiful and highly- cultivated plain of Lucca, adorned with forest trees, rior peasants is neat; and the wives and daughters of the farmers are, on festival days, handsomely dressed when they go to church, or elsewhere ; hut this finery is laid by , the moment they return home. 3 It was not in my power to collect much information relative to the Baths of Lucca; because my residence there was short : but from a friend, who spent several months in that vicinity, and is, moreover, a judicious and accurate observer, I received many of the particulars I have, in consequence, been enabled to detail. BAGNI DI LUCCA. ch. vi. j PISTOJA. 117 from which hang festoons of vines in every direction, we approached Pescia, a small episcopal city at the base of the Apennine, and pe- culiarly situated amidst mountains cultivated to their summits, and covered with villages, churches, and castles : the episcopal pa- lace here looks handsome ; and near this town are the baths of Monte-Gatini. The road, to the end of the Lucchese territories, is excellent ; but thence toPistoja paved, and not well kept. The country be- tween Pescia and Pistoja is bold and romantic ; and the latter city finely placed on the side of the Apennine, near the river Om- brone, contains particularly wide, straight, and well-paved streets ; alaces, which announce magni- cence; and a venerable Gothic Cathedral : but the city looks too large for its inhabitants (said to be only 10,000), and therefore has a gloomy appearance. It was famous among the ancients for the defeat of Catiline; and, in mo- dern times, the factions of the Guelphs and Ghibellines have ren- dered it no less remarkable. The situation of Pistoja is cool; the air healthy; the country fruitful; and the provisions are cheap and good. r The Cathedral contains a mo- nument erected to the memory of Cardinal Fertoguerra, begun by Andrea Verrochio, and finished by Lorengetti — over the high altar is an ascension, by Bron- ! zino ; and on the walls several historical passages of scripture are represented in basso-rilievo. The I f am °us Civilian Cino is interred in this church, and his memory ! perpetuated by two inscriptions, over which are bassi-rilievi by Andrea, Pisano. The Baptistery , which stands in the area before the church, is spacious, and was used, in the first ages of Christianity, for baptizing proselytes. The Chiesa di S. Francesco di Sala contains seven paintings, by Andrea del Sarto. The Chiesa diS. Prospero con- tains a fine Library in the ante- room, to which are bassi-rilievi, by Cornaquioi. The Chiesa dell' Umiltd is ad- mired for its architecture and cu- pola, by Vasari. The Chiesa deilo Spirito Santo possesses an excellent organ. The Episcopal Palace contains a statue of Leo xr. The modern College and Se- minary merit notice. Good organs, cannon, and mus- kets, are made at Pistoja. The best inn (a very bad one) is the post-house. From Pistoja we proceeded to Prato and Florence ; leaving, to the right, the ro^al Villa of Pog- gio-a-Cajano, whose foundations were laid by Leo x. ; and this villa merits notice, from its fine situation, and because it is embel- lished with the works of Andrea del Sarto. The country between Pistoja and Florence may, with truth, be called the richest and best culti- vated garden in Tuscany : and the lofty hedges of vines climbing up forest trees, and forming them- selves into magnificent festoons on each side of the road, present the appearance of an immensely exten- sive gallery, decorated for a ball. The road from Pistoja to Flo- rence is good. CHAPTER VII. SIENA AND ROME Journey from Florence to Rome through Siena— Description of the last-named city and its Environs — Radicofani — Viterbo — Tomb of C. V. Marianus — Ponte-Molle — Nasonian Sepul- chre— Muro Torto— Porta del Popnlo — Rome — Mai’ aria — Climate — Water conveyed daily to the ancient city— Size and population of ditto — Size of the modern city— Society— Exca- vations — Foro-Romano— Colosseo— Arco di Costantino — Chiesa di S. Teodoro — Arco di Set- timio Severo in Velabro— Chiesa di S. Georgio in Velabro— Arco di Giano Quadrifronle— Lake of Juturna— Cloaca Maxima — House called that of Pilate— Chiesa di S. Maria in Cos- medin— Tempio di Vesta — Tempio di Fortuna Virilis — Palazzo de’ Cesari — Circus Maximus— Chiesa di S. Gregorio sul Monte-Celio— Terme di Tito— Sette Sale— Chiese di S. Martino in Monte — di S. Pietro inVincoli— di S. Maria della Navicella — di S. Slefano Rotondo — Obelisk of the Piazza del Popolo — Obelisjc of the Trinita de’ Monti — Villa Medici— Statues and Obelisk of Monte-Cavallo — Chiese di S. Bernardo — di S. Maria degli Angeli — The Pope’s Oil-Cellar— Obelisk of S. Maria Maggiore— Column— Basilica— Obelisk of S. Giovanni in Laterano — Battisterio di Costantino — Basilica di S, Giovanni in Laterano— Scala Santa— Tri- clinium — Amphitheatre Castrense — Basilica di S..Croce in Gerusalemme — Temple called that of Venus and Cupid — Claudian Aqueduct — Chiesa di S. Bibiana — Tempio di Minerva-Medica — Arco di Gallieno — Remains of Aqueducts— Chiesa di S. Prassede — Campidoglio — Tarpeian Rock — Chiese di S. Maria d’Aracceli— di S. Pietro in Carcere— Palazzo del Senatore— Palazzo de’ Conservatori — Museo-Capitolino— Tempio di Pallade — Tempio e Foro di Nerva — Foro e Colonna Trajana — Dogana Ponlifica— Obelisk of Monte-Citorio — Colonna Antonina — Mau- soleo d’Augusto— Campo-Marzo— Mausoleo- Adriano — Tempio del Sole — Baths of Constantine — Obelisk of S. Maria sopra Minerva— Chiesa di S. Maria sopra Minerva— Casanatense Li- brary-Pantheon — Bagni d’Agrippa — Piazza-Navona— Chiesa di S. Agnese — Teatro di Mar- cello — Prison of the Decemviri — Portico d’Oclavia — Tempio d’Esculapio— Chiesa di S. Cecilia in Trastevere— Basilica di S. Maria in Trastevere — Fountain— Chiese di S. Prisca— di S. Sa- bina— diS. Alessio— Monte-Testaccio— Sepolcro di Cajo Cestio — Terme di Caracalla— Sepolcro de’Scipioni — Porta di S.Sebastiano alle Catacombe— Cerchio di Caracalla— Sepolcro di Cecilia Metella — Public TJstrina — Scene of combat between the Horatii and Curiatii — Basilica di S. Paolo— Chiesa di S. Paolo alle tre Fontane— Excavations— Chiesa di S. Urbano alia Caffa- rella —Fontana della Dea Egeria — Tempio di Redicolo — Porta-Pia ; Chiesa di S. Agnese— Chiesa di S. Costanza— Hippodrome— Villa Faonte— Ponte Lamentano — Tomb of Menenius Agrippa — Mons Sacer — Porta di S. Loi'enzo; Basilica di S. Lorenzo — Porta Maggiore ; ancient Temples at the Tor de’ Schiavi— Porta S. Giovanni — Aqueducts— Temple of Fortuna Mul- cebris — Farm called Roma Vecchia — Gates not already mentioned — Bridges not already mentioned. Before I enter upon a descrip- tion of Rome, I will give a brief account of Siena, and other places, through which we passed on our way from Florence to the first- named city. Siena, formerly called Sena Julia , in honour of Caesar, is by some authors supposed to have been an ancient town of Etruria ; while others attribute its founda- tion to the Gauls who marched to Rome under the command of Bren- nus. It stands on the acclivity of a Tufo -mountain; or, perhaps, moreproperly speaking, the crater SIENA. CH. VII.] of an extinct volcano ; and once contained 100,000 inhabitants ; though its present population does not amount to a fifth part of that number. The buildings are hand- some, and the streets airy ; but many of them so much up and down hill as to be scarcely practi- cable for carriages. The wine, water, bread, meat, and fruits, are excellent ; the upper classes of people well educated, pleasing, and remarkably kind to Foreign- ers ; and the Tuscan language is said to be spoken here in its ut- most perfection. Some remains of the old walls of Siena are discoverable near the church of S. Antonio ; and several ancient grottoes, cellars, subterra- nean aqueducts, and, as it were, whole streets, excavated under the mountain, merit notice. The Roman Gate is much ad- mired. The Cathedral, which occupies the site of a temple dedicated to Minerva, is a master-piece of Go- thic architecture, incrusted with- out and within with black and white marble : it was erected about the year 1250; but, in 1284, the original front was taken down, and that which now stands, com- menced by Giovanni, Pisano, and finished by Agostino and Agnolo, celebrated sculptors of Siena. Near the great door are two vases for holy water ; the one executed by Giacomo della Quercia, the other an antique, found at the same time with the Graces ; and both these vessels contain marble fishes, so well done that they appear to be swimming. The pavement is reck- oned one of the most curious works of art in Italy ; and consists * of scriptural histories, wrought in mosaic. The story of Moses was designed byBeccafumi, surnamed 119 Meccarino, and executed, by va- rious artists, about the middle of the sixteenth century. The story of Joshua is by Duccio di Buonin- segna, Sanese. In this pavement are likewise represented the em- blems of cities once in alliance with Siena, namely, the elephant of Rome with a castle on its back — the lions of Florence and Massa — the dragon of Pistoja — the hare of Pisa— the unicorn of Yiterbo — the goose of Ovieto— the vulture of Voltera— the stork of Perugia —the lynx of Lucca — the horse of Arezzo — and the kid of Grossetto. Here also is the she- wolf of Siena, borne in memory of Romulus and Remus. This work appears to have been executed about the year 1400. The pavement of the area, under the cupola, and that before the high altar, representing Abra- ham’s intended sacrifice of his son, are particularly celebrated; and the latter is attributed to Mecca- rino. The art of paving in this beautiful way, or, more properly speaking, of representing figures in black and white marble thus ex- quisitely, is now lost. Near the entrance of the choir are four large frescos by Salimbeni. The Chigi- Chapel contains a copy, in Roman mosaic, of a painting by Carlo Maratti ; a statue of the Magda- lene, by Bernini ; and three other statues, by his scholars. The cha- pel of S. Giovanni contains a sta- tue of that saint by Donatello ! This cathedral is adorned with painted glass windows, executed in 1549; and busts of all the Pope&> down to Alexander iil. ; among these formerly was the bust of Pope Joan; with the following inscription under it : 44 Johannes vni., Fcemina de Anglia ; .” The Library, or Sacristy, is 420 SIENA. now stripped of all its boots, ex- cept some volumes of church mu- sic, well worth notice, on account of the illuminations with which they are decorated ; here, likewise, is a celebrated antique group, in marble, of the three Graces, which was found under the church ; and on the walls are frescos represent- ing the principal transactions of the life of Pius ii., by Pinturic- chio, after the designs of Raphael; the first painting on the right is said to have been wholly done by that artist. The Tower of the Palazzo della Signoria , vulgarly called del Mangia , and built by Agnolo and Agostino in 1325, is a fine piece of Architecture. The Churches of the Spedale di S. Maria della Scala — the Agostiniani — S. Martino di Pro - 'venzano — S. Quirino , and del Carmine ; and the Church of the Camaldolensi , on the outside of the town, contain good pictures. The Church of S. Lorenzo is famous for an ancient Roman In- scription, and a well, at the bot- tom of which is a sort of fountain, supported by columns that appear to be of high antiquity : and the Domenican Church contains a painting of the Madonna with our Saviour in her arms, executed by Guido di Siena in 1221, nineteen years before the birth of Cimabue. The Palazzo degli Eccelsi con- tains the Sala della Pace, adorned with paintings which represent, on one side, the recreations of Peace; and, on the other, Tyran- ny, Cruelty, Deceit, and W ar ; all done by Ambrogio, Sanese, in 1338 — theSaladiConsiglio, where i Siena bo-sts another recommendation, — il is exempt from gnats; as, generally speak- ing, are ell the elevated parts of this country. [CH. VII. are paintings relative to the his- tory of Siena, by the same master, and other subjects, by Bartoli — the Sala di Balia, ornamented with paintings which represent the life of Alexander hi. ; and are highly valuable because they exhi- bit the costume of the age in which they were done; (they are of Giotto’s school) — the Sala del Con- sistOrkr, embellished with some of Beccafumi’s finest frescos, and the judgment of Solomon, by Luca Giordano ; with several other apartments, in which are works of Salimbeni, Casolani, etc. The Theatre makes a part of this palace, and is large and commo- dious. The Fountain constructed in 1193, is so famous for the quanti- ty and quality of its water, as to be mentioned in the Inferno of Dante : indeed, there are few cities placed in so elevated a situation as Siena, that can boast such abund- ance of excellent water : and moreover, the climate, for persons not afflicted with weak lungs, is wholesome at all seasons of the year — a recommendation which does not belong to many cities of Italy. 1 * * This town contains a celebrated University; several Academies, va- luable Libraries, Museums, etc.; and gave birth to Gregory vir., and Alexander hi., two of the greatest Sovereigns who ever filled the Papal throne. 8 The environs of Siena appear to contain several villas, delight- fully calculated for summer habi- tations; but Travellers should be especially careful not to fix them- selves near the Maremma : a com 2 The best inns at Siena are, The Hotel des Armes d’Angleterre, and the Aquilci Hera ; the latter is very comfortable. RADICOFANI. 121 in . vii.] siderable tract of country, situated near the sea, and deemed particu- larly unwholesome now ; though : heretofore remarkably populous. Beyond Siena, some leagues to the left of the high-road, lies Chiusi, the ancient Clusium, near ; the Lake of Chiana, formerly Cla- I nius: but this city, once Porsen- na’s capital, is at present thinly | peopled, on account of its noxious I air. Buonconvento, pleasantly situ- atedon the Ombrone, about fifteen | miles from Siena, is likewise in- fected with Mai' aiia : and here the Emperor Henry vii. was poi- soned by receiving the sacrament from a Domenican monk. San-Quirico, placed in a healthy r, amidst olive-trees and vine- yards, contains a small Gothic Church, the nave and choir of which merit notice; a Palace be- longing to the Chigi family ; a cu- rious Well, opposite to the palace, and an ancient square tower, sup- posed to be of Roman origin. 1 Near the mountain of Radico- jfani the soil is volcanic, and the Country wild and desolate ; the road, however, is excellent; the ascent five miles in length, and the descent the same. Radicofani, which rises two thousand four iiundred and seventy feet above he level of the Mediterranean jea, exhibits, on its summit, large leaps of stones, supposed to be he mouth of an extinct volcano. The post-house, not far distant Yom this spot, is a good inn ; and the little fortress near it was ince called impregnable, though low falling to decay. This is the rontier of Tuscany ; and at the 1 The best inn here, 11 Sole , contains to- lerable beds. | 2 At Acuna pendente every Passport must k examined and sealed by the Police Officers ; foot of the mountain, on the way to Torrecelli, the road traverses a torrent, sometimes dangerous after rain. Beyond Torrecelli is Ponte-Centino, the first village of the Ecclesiastical State : this country is embellished with woods, and a fine bridge, thrown across the Paglia. To the next town, Aquapen- dente, the approach is particularly beautiful : this was the Aquula of the ancients; and derives its ap- pellation from the water-falls in its vicinity. 2 Hence, the road traverses a volcanic plain to San Lorenzo- nuovo ; a remarkably well-con- structed, clean, and pretty village ; which possesses the advantages of wholesome air and good water ; and was built by Pius vi. , that the inhabitants of what is now called San Lorenzo-rovinato might remove hither, in order to avoid the pestilential atmosphere of the latter place. 3 Not far distant from S. Lo- renzo-nuovo is Bolsena, supposed to stand upon the site of the an- cient Volsinium : one of the prin- cipal cities of Etruria ; and whence the Romans, 2(35 years before Christ, are said to have removed two thousand statues to Rome. Here are remains of a Temple, supposed to have been dedicated to the Goddess Narsia ; Etruscan ornaments, which adorn the front of the parochial Church; and, opposite to this edifice, a Sarco- phagus of Roman workmanship. In the environs are remains of an Amphitheatre ; together with an immense quantity of broken cor- nices, capitals of pillars, ancient who demand, in consequence, one paul per Passport. 3 Inn, The Post-house, and tolerably good. 422 VITERBO. [ch. vir. mosaics, etc. Bolsena, now an unimportant village, is seated on a magnificent Lake, of the same name, anciently called Lacus Vulsinus , and thirty-five Roman miles in circumference : this Lake contains two small Islands, both of them inhabited; and said, by Pliny, to have floated in his time ; though now they are fixed : it is supposed to be the crater of a volcano. Nothing can exceed the beauty of the views in this neigh- bourhood ; but the air is un- wholesome. Near Bolsena is Orvieto, cele- brated for the excellence of its wines ; and containing a hand- some Gothic Cathedral ; adorned, on the outside, with sculpture, by Niccolo, Pisano ; and embel- lished within, by a painting of Signorelli’s, which Buonaroti par- ticularly admired. Between Bolsena and Monte- fiascone, the road passes close to a remarkable hill, covered with re- gular prismatic basaltine columns, most of them standing obliquely, and a considerable length out of the ground: indeed, the whole country, so far as Montefiascone, exhibits rocks of basalt, inter- spersed with forest scenery : and, near the above-named hill, is an ancient Tomb, erected, according to the inscription it bears, by L. Canuleias, for himself and his family. Montefiascone, a finely situated, though not a handsome town, pro- duces such excellent wine, that a German Traveller, a Prelate, died Irom drinking it to excess. Between Montefiascone and Vi- terbo the country is dreary ; and near the latter town, on the right, is a Lake of hot water; the ex- halations from which are sulphu- reous. Viterbo, supposed to have been the ancient metropolis of Etruria, called Volturna , is situated at the base of Monte-Cimino, anciently Mons-Ciminus : and encompassed by walls flanked with lowers, which give it, at a distance, a splendid appearance : it contains about thirteen thousand inhabi- tants, is well built, well paved, and adorned with handsome foun- tains and a fine gate, erected by Clement xiii . 1 The road from Viterbo to Ronciglione traverses part of the Monte-Cimino, amid flowers, odo- riferous herbs, oaks, chesnuts, and other forest-trees ; and at the base of this mountain, near Ronciglione, is the Lake of Vico, anciently Lcicus-Ciminus , encir- cled with richly wooded hills, and forming a beautiful basin of nearly three miles in circumfer- ence, said to have been the funnel of a volcano; and where, as tra- dition reports, a city once stood. Nine leagues from Viterbo, but not in the high-road, is Corneto; remarkable for the number of Etruscan antiquities which have been, and still are to be found in its vicinity : and one league north of Corneto is a hill, called'Civita- Turchino, upon which the ancient Tarquinium is supposed to have Stood. Several little eminences lie between this hill and the town of Corneto ; and those which have been openedexhibitsubterraneous rooms cut in the tufo, lined with stucco, and filled with Etruscan vases and sarcophagi. Ronciglione is situated near a picturesque valley, in a barren soil ; where agriculture seems al- i At Yiter)>o, The Aguila Nera is a good inn. c,h. vii.] ROME. most whollyneglected; and where the Via-Flaminia , between the the Campagna di Roma begins to Pincian and the Marian hills; 2 feel the influence, during hot wea- and, about two miles and a quar- ter, of that wide-spreading and ter from the Ponte-Molle, cut out incomprehensible pest, Mai aria. 1 of rocks which overlook the Via- ]\ear Monterosi ( Mons Ero- Flaminia , is the Nasonian Se- sus) is a sheet of lava; not far pulchre ; and near the Porta del hence, the Loretto and Siena Popolo, toward the Porta- Pin- roads join ; falling into the Fia- ciana, is the Muro-torlo , a part Cassia; and immediately beyond of the city-wall, which declines the junction of these roads is the Rom its perpendicular, and sup- Lake of Monterosi, which emits posed, by some persons, to have an offensive smell. been the Sepulchre of the Domi— Baccano, placed in a peculiar- tian Family, where the ashes of ly noxious air, is only two posts Nero were deposited, from Rome; and on the hill above Nothing, of its kind, can be Baccano St. Peter’s may be disco- more magnificent than the entry i vered ; while in a valley, on the into Rome through the Porta del left, near Storta, may be seen a Popolo; a gate erected originally half ruined Castle, erected on by Aurelian (when he inclosed the site of the ancient Citadel of the Campus Martius), and called y e] [p Porta-Flaminia. The outside of No country can be more dreary, the present gate w r as built by Vi- , nor more neglected, than that gnola ; and the inside ornamented which lies between Baccano and hy Bernini. I lhe Ponte-Molle.: but, from the Rome has suffered so material- heights near this bridge, Rome ly Rom volcanic eruptions, earth- presents herself to view ; gradual- quakes, and the frequent ravages fy expanding as the road descends of invading armies, that even the to the banks of the Tiber. surface of the ground on w hich Between Storta and the Ponte- it originally stood is completely Molle is the tomb of P. Vibius altered; insomuch, that on dig- i Marianus. g in 8 deep, it is common to dis- The Ponte-Molle , anciently cover columns, statues, fragments i Pons-Milvius , was built by M. of edifices, and sometimes even Emilius Scaurus ; and is celebrat- the pavement of the ancient city, ed for the vision seen here by from twenty to thirty feet under - Constantine ; and the victory ground. The stupendous corn- gained by that prince over the mon sewers, through which the Tyrant Maxentius who was offal of Rome was conveyed into drowned in the river near this the Cloaca-maxima, are many of \ spot: there are, however, scarce them choked up; and the Cloaca - . any remains of the ancient bridge, maxima itself is in bad order : 3 except its foundation. this causes pestilential air; and The approach to Rome is by the workmen who, by digging | 1 Ronciglione contains two inns. The Post- 2 Three roads led from Rome to Loni- honse , and The Albergo di S. Agnella ; hardy : the Flaminian along the Adriatic ; < wretched hovels both ; though wholesomely the Aurelian along the Mediterranean ; and situated; and, therefore, preferable as sleep- the Cassian between these two, through the * ing-plnces to the inns nearer Rome, all of interior of the country. I Which are infected by rrial' aria. 424 ROME. [cn. vir. deep, have opened apertures to the common sewers, not unfre- quently have lost their lives from the putrid effluvia. In the neigh- bourhood of Rome all the land is ill-cultivated and worse drained ; so that fogs and noxious vapours prevail there during night : it likewise abounds with sulphur, arsenic, and vitriol : hence, there- fore, in some measure, perhaps, may arise that MaV aria which never affected ancient Rome; be- cause these minerals were either unknown to its inhabitants, or suffered to remain buried in the bowels of the earth. The tem- perature of the seasons also seems to be changed ; for Horace gives us to understand that, in his time, the streets of Rome, during win- ter, were filled with ice and snow : and it appears, from Juvenal, that to see the Tiber frozen over was not uncommon : whereas, at pre- sent, it is deemed extraordinary for snow to lie three days in any part of the city; and, respecting the Tiber, no person recollects to have seen it frozen. These cir- cumstances, added to the want of trees to agitate and improve the air, concur to account for the pre- sent unhealthiness of some parts of Rome, and nearly all its Cam- pagna, during summer : beside which, the mouth of the Tiber is choked with mud and sand ; while its bed has been considerably narrowed by filth and rubbish, thrown from the houses situated on its banks ; so that a strong south wind often makes it over- flow, and inundate the city and its environs.- — Gould this river be turned into another channel, and 1 Beside sixty colossal statues which adorn- ed ancient Rome, her streets and forums were lined with porticos, supported by co- lumns of marble, and embellished with busts and statues innumerable; and a large por~ the present bed cleansed and deep- ened, what an advantage might Rome derive in point of health- fulness ; and what a harvest to Antiquaries might the river’s bed afford ! 1 — So unwholesome now is the Campagna diRoma in July and August, that, during these months, it is dangerous to sleep within twenty miles of the city : Rome itself, however, even at this season, is not usually visited by MaV aria , either on the Corso, the Quirinal Hill, or the streets comprised within the Rioni Mon- ti, Trevi, Colonna, Campo-Marzo, Ponte, Parione, Regola, S. Eusta- cio, Pigna, and S. Angelo : but at this season the climate is op- pressively hot ; though, during winter and spring, temperate and delightful. The ancient Romans had aque- ducts sufficient to convey daily to the city eight hundred thousand tuns of water : the three principal aqueducts now remaining are, that of the Acqua-Vergine ; that of the Acqua-Felice ; and that of the Acqua - Paulina ; the first was repaired by Paul iv., and discharges itself into the Fontana di Trevi : the second comes from the neighbourhood of Palestrina, twenty-two miles distant from Rome, and is one of the many works which do honour to the reign of Sextus v., who expended a million of scudi in repairing it : this aqueduct discharges itself in- to the Fontana di Termine. The third, which derives its name from its restorer, Paul v., is separated into two channels ; one of which supplies Monte - Gianicolo, and the other the Vatican : it comes tion of these precious remains of antiquity is supposed to have been thrown into the Tiber. So numerous were the marble co- lumns in Rome, that a tax was put upoa them. ROME. j ch. vn.j thirty miles ; and principally dis- charges itself into the fountain near the church of S. Pietro- Mon- torio. Rome, during the reign of Va- lerian, was surrounded by a wall, said to have been fifty miles in circumference : 1 II and the number of inhabitants, during its most flourishing state, was, by some authors, computed at four mil- lions. 2 Modern Rome is not above thirteen miles in circumfer- ence ; and contains scarce 135,000 inhabitants : but reduced as this ancient Mistress of the world now is, in size and population, reduced too as her Papal throne has been in wealth and power, still, the matchless frescos of Raphael, Buo- naroti, Danielo da Volterra, Giulio, Romano, Annibale Ca- racci, Guido, Domenichino, Guer- cino, etc., are unalienably hers; still the master-pieces of Grecian sculpture adorn her museums ; still her stately palaces, noble churches, beautiful fountains, gi- gantic columns, stupendous obe- lisks, and peerless Coliseum, en- title her to be called the most mag- nificent city of Europe, and the unrivalled Mistress of the Arts ! — Her streets, nevertheless, are ill paved and dirty; whde ruins of immense edifices, which conti- nually present themselves to vie w , give an impression of melancholy to every thinking spectator. The society at Rome is excel- lent; and the circumstance of every man, whether foreigner or native, being permitted to live as he pleases, without exciting won- der, contributes essentially to ge- 1 The upper ranks of ancient Romans do not I ! appear to have resided so much in the city as ! in vilJas not far distant : and this wall of fifty miles in circumference might probably enclose I the suburbs ot Rome, which must, judging from II the remains now left, have been very extensive. 125 neral comfort. At Rome, too, every person may find amuse- ment : for whether it be our wish to dive deep into classical know- ledge, whether arts and sciences be our pursuit, or whether we merely seek for new ideas and new objects, the end cannot fail to be obtained in this most interesting of cities, where every stone is an historian: and though Rome has, in some respects, suffered from her late Rulers, the French, she is, ge- nerally speaking, obliged to them; as they removed the earth with which time had buried part of the Coliseum ; disencumbered the temple of Vesta from the plaster- walls which destroyed its beauty ; excavated the Forum of Trajan, the Baths of Titus, and the lower parts of the Temples of Concord and Jupiter Tonans; removed from the foundations of the arches of Septimius Severus and Constan- tine, the earth and rubbish, by which they were in some measure concealed, and ridded the Temple of Peace of an immense collection of earth, which entombed nearly one third of its remains. 1 will now endeavour to point out the most convenient vray of visiting the Antiquities, Churches, Palaces, etc. ; mentioning the objects best worth notice only; in order to prevent Travellers from wasting their time, and bur- dening their memory, by a minute survey of what is not particularly interesting; and thereby, perhaps, depriving themselves of leisure to examine what really merits the closest attention. I shall begin with the Antiquities ; previously 2 Tacitus says, tlie Emperor Claudius made a lustrum, by which the number of inhabit- ants was found to be sixty -eight classes, con- sisting of one hundred and sixty-four thou- sand each, M 2 426 ROME. fcH. T II. observing, that whoever wishes to see these wrecks of ancient splen- dour to advantage, should visit them, for the first time, by the mild and solemn light of the moon ; which not only assimilates with fallen greatness, but throws every defect into shadow ; leaving Ima- gination to supply every beauty, and array every object in its pris- tine garb of magnificence. Foro-Romano. There were two kinds of Forums in Rome, Fora Civilia , and Fora Venalia\ the former serving as ornaments to the City, and likewise as Courts of Justice ; the latter as Market- places. The forum Romanum was of the first kind ; and here stood the Comitium and the Ros- trum. The Comitium was a large apartment, for a considerable pe- riod, open at the top; it contained the tribunal, and ivory chair, whence the Chief-Magistrate ad- ministered justice. The Rostrum was so called because this building contained an Orators pulpit, gar** nished with beaks of vessels, taken by the Romans, from the People of Antium. 1 The Forum Roma- num is supposed to have extended in length, from the Chiesa della Consalazione to that of S. Adri- ano ; and, in breadth, from the three Columns, called the Temple of Jove Stator, to the triumphal Arch of Septimius Severus. 2 It was built by Romulus, and sur- rounded with porticos by Tarqui- nius Priscus : little, however, now remains to be seen, except heaps of ruins, and piles of vegetable earth ; the immense accumulation of which cannot be accounted for. The Via-Sacra , so called in con- sequence ot the peace concluded between Romulus andTatius, and the sacrifices offered to the gods on that occasion, traversed the Forum Romanum, from the side near the Coliseum to the Arch of Septimius Severus; and in the middle of this Forum was the La- cus-Curtius ; whence the fine alto-rilievo in the Villa-Borghese is said to have been taken. 3 Tempio di Giove Tonante. This beautiful edifice was built by Augustus in consequence of his escape from lightning. Only three columns, with part of the frieze, now remain ; and on the side of the latter are sacrificial in- struments in basso-rilievo , name- ly, the prcefieulum , the patera , the aspergillum , the securis and culter , together with the alboga- lerus , a cap resembling a bishop’s mitre, supposed to have been worn by the priests of Jove. Tempio della Concordia. Fu- rius Camillus erected this temple, in consequence of the reconcilia- tion he effected between the Se- nate and people of Rome : it was consumed by fire, and rebuilt ; but the portico only is remaining now ; and consists, in front, of six Ionic granite columns, whosebases and capitals are white marble, with one column on each side. In this temple Cicero is ^supposed to have convoked the Senate which condemned Lentulus and Cethe- gus, the accomplices of Catiline. 4 ArcodiSetlimio Severo. erected A. D. 205, in honour of the Em- peror and his Sons, by the Senate and people of Rome. This arch 1 The Latin word for ship-beaks is rostra . 2 A distance of about 750 feet one way, and 500 the other. 3 Rome is supposed to have been built in the mouth of an extinct volcano : and this opinion seems justified by the story of Cur- tius, and the account of the manner in which the Temple of Peace was destroyed. 4 Some antiquaries imagine this to have been the Temple of Fortune ; because the Temple of Concord is said to have fronted the Comitium. 127 ch. vii. 1 ROME. was originally adorned with a tri- umphal car and six horses ; in the car were two figures ; 1 2 on each side was a foot soldier ; and on each extremity of the attic, a sol- dier on horseback. The bassi - rilievi on the arch record the vic- tories of Severus over the Parthi- ans, and other uncivilized na- tions. Tempio di Saturno , now Chie- sa di S. Adriano. This temple, during the time of the Republic, was the treasury : but scarce any part of the original building now remains, except its brazen gate, which adorns the church of S. Giovanni in Laterano. The si tua- ation of the Ghiesa di S. Adriano merits notice ; as, before it, stood, according to Tacitus, the fainous golden column, erected by Au- gustus, and called Milliarium aureum : whence the distance to every province was measured, and which is said to have been placed in he centre of ancient Rome. From this column the Roman roads branched off, in straight lines, to all parts of Italy. Colonna di Phocas. This co- lumn, supposed originally to have adorned an ancient edifice, was ?rected,in the seventh century, on ts present site, in honour of the Emperor Phocas, whose statue of bronze gilt is said to have stood pn the top of the pillar. Tempio di Anlonino e Faus- tina, built A. D. 168, by the Ro- man Senate, in memory of their Emperor, Antoninus Pius, and 1 Probably the Sons of the Emperor, be- cause he was prevented by the gout from assisting in the triumphal procession. 2 Stator (TTATee^i ), h e w ho makes to it up, or stand. When Cicero, in consc- ience ot Catiline’s conspiracy, convened he Senate in the Temple ot Jupiter, he con- :Juded his oration there by saying, “Whilst hou, Jupiter, whose worship was established his Consort, Faustina. The por- tico of this temple, now the Ghiesa di S. Lorenzo in Miranda, is adorned with ten Corinthian co- lumns of marble, called, by the Romans, Cipollino : the sides of the portico seem originally to have been incrusted with marble, now taken away ; but a frieze of white marble, adorned with griffins, etc., still remains, and proves the ancient magnificence of the building.* Tempio di Giove State re. 7 On the north side of the Yia-Sacra, toward the Palatine hill, stand three beautiful columns of white marble, supposed to have been part of the portico of a temple consecrated to the above-named deity, by Romulus, on the spot where he rallied his soldiers who fled from the Sabines. Some per- sons suppose the Comitium to have made part of this edifice; but, be that as it may, the now remaining part must have been rebuilt when architecture was in much higher perfection than dur- ing the days of Romulus. Chiesa di S. Maria Libera- trice. This Church is supposed by modern antiquaries to stand on the site of the original Tem- ple of Yesta, erected by Numa, and bordering on the Lacus- Curtius. Near this Church are ruins of a square brick edifice, erected by Tullus Hostilius, and called Curia Hostilia : and on this side of the Forum, the Ros- tra, 3 the temples of Augustus, with the foundation of this city ; thou, whom we truly call Stator, the prop and stay of our empire: — Query, therefore, supposing the Senate to have assembled in the Capitol, whether the Temple of Jupiter Stator was not there? 3 Pliny informs us, that the first sun-dial, set up for public use at Rome, was likewise placed on this spot, about the year U. C. 131. 128 and Castor and Pollux, together with the Basilica of Portias, are all supposed to have stood. Tempio di Remo , now Chiesa de' S. S. Cosimo e Damiano. The bronze door, marble door-case, and porphyry columns, which adorn the outside of this building, appear to be antique ; as does the rotunda which serves as a ves- tibule ; but the body of the church seems to have been erected about the time of Constantine. In this temple was a pavement contain- ing the plan of Rome, cut on white marble, probably in the reign of Septimius Severus and Caracalla; which plan, mutilated and unmethodized, is now fixed in the stair-case of the Museum of the Capitol. The subterranean part of this temple merits notice. Tempio della Pace. Vespa- sian, after terminating the war with Judea, raised this vast edifice upon the foundation of the portico of Nero’s golden house, about the year 75: it was deemed the most magnificent temple of ancient Rome; being of a quadrangular form, three hundred feet long, and two hundred feet broad. It con- sisted of three naves, with three tribunes on each side; it was in- crusted with bronze gilt, adorned with stupendous columns, and en- riched with the finest statues and pictures of the Grecian school ; particularly the celebrated work done by Protogenes, for the Rhodians, and representing Ialy- sus. Pliny likewise places here the statue of the Nile with six- teen children ; probably that which now enriches the Vatican. The citizens deposited their wealth in 1 I presume not to judge whether these ruins did, or did not, make part of'th3 Temple of Peace: but the edifice certainly appears to have been built in a stj le superior to that [CH. VII. this temple; and here, likewise, Titus Vespasian placed the spoils of Jerusalem; in short, it served as a public treasury, till about an hundred years after its foundation , when the whole building, with all the precious contents, are said to have been destroyed by fire, which issued suddenly from the bowels of the earth : and this record of the entire destruction of the tem- ple, added to an idea that the style of architecture is not good enough for the days of Vespasian, has lately induced several persons to conjecture that these ruins, called the Temple of Peace, are, in fact, the remains of the Basilica of Constantine, which stood near the Colisaeum. Little now can be traced of the building in question, except three immense arches, or tribunes, with part of the walls and roof, niches for statues, and doors of communication: but what serves to convey some idea of the grandeur of this edifice is one of the eight columns with which its interior was decorated, namely, a fluted Corinthian shaft of white marble, sixteen feet and a half in circumference, and, without base or capital, forty-eight feet high : it now stands before the church of S. Maria Maggiore. 1 Tempio di Venere e Roma, near the Chiesa di S. Francesca Romana. This double temple had two fronts ; and each front had a portico adorned with co- lumns of rare marble. There are considerable remains of this tem- ple; namely, two tribunes, great part of one of the side-walls, and the foundation and broken pillars of one of the porticos ; all of which indicate that the edifice must have usually adopted in the days of Constantine,, an l very similar to the Temple of Venn! and Rome. ROME. ROME. CH. VII.] 129 been extremely magnificent : it ,was built after the designs of the Emperor Adrian ; and the man- ner in which the roofs of the tribunes were stuccoed and or- namented resembles the style in which the remaining roofs of his villa near Tivoli were adorn- Ed . 1 Arco di Tito , built by the Se- nate and people of Rome, and de- dicated to Titus in honour of his conquest of Jerusalem. It con- sists of one large arch, over which iis an attic story. Each front was originally adorned with four fluted composite columns. On the frieze is represented Titus’s triumphal procession, together with the (image of a river-god, probably ,the Jordan. Under the arch, on one side, is the Emperor seated in a triumphal car, conducted by the Genius of Rome, and attended by Victory, who is crowning him with laurels. On the other side ^f the arch are the spoils of the temple of Jerusalem, namely, the table of shew-bread ; the tables I of the law; the seven-branched golden candlestick ; the jubilee I trumpets, etc., copied, no doubt, from the originals, and therefore the only faithful representations extant of these sacred Jewish an- tiquities. The deification of Ti- tus is represented on the roof of the inside of the arch. This edi- fice was nearly destroyed, that its ornaments might be placed else- where; but, nevertheless, enough remains to prove that it was the most beautiful building of its kind ever erected . 2 Colosseo. This vast and ma- jestic edifice is supposed to have derived its name of Colisceum from a colossal statue, one hun- dred and twenty feet high, of Nero, in the character of Apollo ; which was placed here by Titus Vespasian, who, on the day when it first opened, is said to have had five thousand wild beasts killed in its arena . 3 The building was erected by Flavius V espasian ; and is supposed to stand where once were the fish-ponds of Nero ; it consists of four stories, namely, three rows of porticoes, raised one above the other, and termi- nated by a lofty circular wall! The first story is adorned with Doric columns, the second with Ionic, the third with Corinthian columns, and the fourth with pi- lasters, between which are win- dows. The shape is an oval, computed to be one thousand six hundred and forty-one feet in cir- cumference, and one hundred and fifty-seven feet in height. The arena, likewise, is an oval, of two hundred and seventy- eight feet long, by one hundred and seven- ty-seven wide. The materials of which the edifice is chiefly com- posed are immense blocks of Tra- vertino , 4 originally fixed together with iron or bronze cramps, now taken away . 5 The entrances were eighty in number, seventy- six being for the people, two for the Gladiators , 6 and two for the Em- 1 The name of the Temple seems allusive | to the hoasled descent of the Homans from j rEneas, the son of Venus. 2 Judea is always represented, on the rae- i dais struck by Titus, as a woman silting on the ground in a posture denoting sorrow. ' 3 So called, because strewed with sand, that the blood of the slain might not make | the place slippery. I] 4 A stone much used in large buildings at I Rome. D 5 The cramps were fastened with melted lead. C Gladiatorial shows were exhibited in this Amphitheatre till the year 401; when an Eastern Monk, named Almachius, oi; Tele- machus, rushed into the arena, and endea- voured to separate the combatants: the Praj- tor, Alypius, who enjoyed these horrid sights, ordered the Gladiators to slay the Monk : they obeyed ; hut he was canouiied ; aiul llouorius abolished the shows. 430 peror and his suite: and within the walls were twenty staircases, leading to seats appropriated to the different classes of spectators. Round the arena was a high wall ; immediately above which stood the podium, or balcony, for the Emperor, and the seats for the Vestal Virgins, Senators, and Ma- gistrates, entitled to curule chairs; and behind these seats rose others, in four divisions, the last of which were appropriated to the popu- lace. The seats are supposed to have contained eighty-seven thou- sand spectators; and the gallery- above them twenty thousand.. There was an awning which stretched over the whole edifice, in case of rain, or intense heat : and in the wall of the uppermost story are square holes, supposed to have contained the rings for fastening the cords of this awn- ing. The arches of the first row of porticos are numbered on the outside ; probably to enable the various classes of spectators to find, without difficulty, their des- tined place. Two gates led into the arena ; the one being oppo- site to the Temple of Venus and Rome, the other on the side of the Mons-Ccelius ; and, near the latter entry, Pius vii. has recently raised a noble buttress, to pre- vent this .part of the Colisaeum from falling. Soldiers, likewise, are constantly stationed here, to guard the edifice from mischief ; and also to protect Travellers, who may wish to examine this stupendous pile by moonlight. Near the Colisaeum, toward the Via- Sacra, are remains of a Fountain called the Meta Su - dans ; which supplied the per- sons who assisted at the shows with water; and might, perhaps, be used in filling the arena for [ch. VII. the Naumachice frequently exhi- t bited there. i slrco di Costantino , dedicated ; to that Emperor by the senate and people of Piome, in memory of his victory over Maxentius at j the Ponte-Molle. This arch stands i at the junction of the Celian and j Palatine hills, in the Via-Appia : \ and is the most splendid, because the best preserved edifice, of its kind, remaining in Rome. It has, on each side, lour fluted Corin- thian columns, seven being giallo antico, and one white marble ; and on the pilasters, above these columns, are statues of Dacian warriors. The bassi-rilievi on the frieze, representing the conquest of Verona, and the victory at the Ponte -Molle, together with the four figures of Fame, and the two medallions on the side of the arch, are proofs of the decline of sculp- ture under Constantine : the other bassi-rilievi, two excepted below the great arcade (which were also done in the time of Constantine), are finely executed, and supposed to have been taken either from the Arch or Forum of Trajan. One of these, fronting the Coli- sseum, represents the triumphal entry of Trajan into Rome ; and another, on the opposite side, re- presents him in the act of offering the sacrifice called Suovetaurilia. The Statues of Dacian warriors, the Columns of giallo antico, and all the Cornices, were taken from the Arch of Trajan. Chiesa di S. Teodoro. Imme- diately behind the Forum Roma- num, on the way to the Forum Boarium , stands this small Ro- tunda, anciently the Temple of Romulus ; and erected on the spot where he was discovered. The bronze wolf, now preserved in the Capitol, originally enriched ROME. 5H. VII.] ROME. 131 iliis temple. r On the outside of [he door of entrance is a pagan dtar. The ancient walls of the Temple are perfect, and exhibit withinside three large niches for statues. The roof is modern. The old Roman custom of car- rying sick infants to this Temple still continues ; although the building is now consecrated to Christian worship. The interior of ;he edifice may be seen every Sun- day morning, from eight o’clock ill ten ; and every Thursday morn- ng, from seven o’clock till eight. N ear this spot was the Lupercal. Arco di Settimio Severo in Velabro. This Arch was erect- led by the Argentarii , bankers, and merchants of the Forum Boa "mm, to Septimius Severus, his Empress, Julia, and their Son, Caracalla. . The sculpture re- sembles, in style, that on the tri- umphal Arch of Severus. Ad- joining to this Arch, is the Church Df S. Giorgio in Velabro , sup- aosed to stand on the site of the Basilica of Sempronius. Arco di Giano Quadrif, route . This building, composed of im- mense blocks of white Greek mar- ble, was once adorned with co- lumns, which have disappeared. The brick-work above the cor- nice is of the middle ages. The edifice seems originally to have Jaeen either a market-house, or an exchange, of which there were several in ancient Rome, almost every Forum being provided with one of them. a 1 Venuti says, the Temple of Romulus was preserved a great while in its original state pf simplicity ; by way of recalling to the remembrance of the Romans the simple manners of their ancestors. 2 There were, in this quarter, beside the ! Forum Eoarium, the Forums Olitorium and Piscatorium. 3 Pliny says, that the Cloaca, or Com- liaion Sewers, were the most surprising public To the left of the Arch of Ja- nus Quadrifrons is a small stream of limpid water ; which discharges itself into the Cloaca- Maxima ; and which tradition reports to be the Lake of Juturna, where Cas- tor and Pollux were seen to water their horses after the battle at the Lacus-Regillus. Cloaca - Maxima. This great common sewer was constructed, by Tarquinius Priscus, of rude stones, regularly placed, but with- out cement, and forming three rows of arches : it entered the Tiber between the Pons-Senato - rius and the Temple of Vesta ; and its mouth may be discovered when the river is low. Part of this building lies close to the Arch of Janus. 1 2 3 Near to the Palatine, or Sena- torian Bridge, now called the Ponte-Rotto, are remains of an edifice, denominated^ House of Pilate, but really that of Nicholas Crescens, supposed to have been the son of Pope John x. Chiesa di S. Maria in Cos - medin, conjectured to be the Temple of Modesty, erected by Virginia, the wife cf Volumnius. This edifice stands a little to the left of the Temple of Jupiter Stator: in the portico is an ancient rnask ; probably intended as the ornament of a fountain ; but, in consequence of an idea once pre- valent among the populace, that oracles issued from it, called Bocca della Verita. Judging by the fine antique marble columns, works at Rome ; being cut through hills, and under the very foundations of the city ; and, moreover, so spacious that a cart loaded with hay might pass through them. Com- mon sewers were unknown ip Greece, and invented by the Romans. The smaller Clo- aca all communicated with the Cloaca Maxima : these Cloaca were continually cleansed, by streams of water resembling' rivers. I m ROME. discoverable in tbe walls of this church, the edifice must havebeen originally large and handsome ; the pavement consists of porphyry and other precious marbles ; the high altar is adorned with an ancient bath or sarcophagus of red Egyp- tian granite ; and in the tribuna is an ancient pontifical chair. The first Custode of Arcadia, Giovanni Mario Crescimbeni, was buried in this church ; his monu- ment is near the great door. Tempio di Vesta , now Chiesa di S. Maria del Sole. When this Temple was erected is uncertain ; but it is said to have been re- paired by Domitian. Here are nineteen beautiful Corinthian fluted columns of Parian marble, which stand on several steps, and form a circular portico round a Celia, likewise circular; the wall ofwhichisalso composed of blocks of Parian marble ; and so exqui- sitely are these materials joined, that they appear to be only one iece. The ancient roof was ronze ; but this, together with the entablature, and one of the columns (for there were twenty,) can no longer be found. Here, according to some opinions, the Vestal Virgins kept the celebrated Palladium and the sacred fire. 1 Tempio della Fortuna Virile , now Chiesa diS. Maria Egiziaca. This Temple is supposed to have been erected by Servius Tullius ; but the elegant fluted columns with which it is adorned prove that it must have been repaired at a later period. It seems, like many of the ancient Roman edi- fices, to have suffered from fire; 1 Vestal Virgins were so called from their goddess Vesta, or fire : Vesta being derived hum tbe Hebrew root fire; whence tbe Greek Evtrt, fire, and the Latin Vesta. The Vestal Virgins were bound to keep Ihe [CH. VII. in order to conceal the effects of which, perhaps, the fine stucco that covers the columns and en- tablature might be employed. The form of this temple is Gre- cian ; the columns are Ionic ; and the ornaments of the entablature, though injured by time, are still visible. Palazzo de’ Cesari . On the Mons Palatinus , where Romulus founded Rome, Augustus began, and Domitian finished, the splen- did Palace of her Emperors ; which, like a little city, covered the hill. The form oflhis palace nearly a parallelogram, may still be traced ; and ruins of one half are discoverable in the Orti Far- nesiani ; and of the other half in the Garden belonging to the Eng- lish College, the Convent of S. Bonaventura, and the Garden of the Villa-Spada. TKe entrance seems to have been from the Via- Sacra. The Gardens of Adonis, on each side of which was a Hip- podrome, belonged to this impe- rial residence ; and the Claudian Aqueduct supplied it with water. In order to see every thing now remaining, the best way is to drive nearly up to the Arch of Titus, then turn to the right, and, a little way on, is a gate , which opens into the Or to Farnesiani. After entering this garden, and ascending some steps that lead to three small dilapidated modern edifices, one of which surmounted by a turret, contains frescos, which, though much injured, me- rit notice, you are presented with a beautiful view of the Temple of Peace : and, further on, is the sacred fire unextinguished ; and likewise to reconcile persons who quarrelled with each other. The temples of Vesta were always circular; perhaps in allusion to the suu. ROME. 433 CH. VII. spot where the Arcadian Acade- my originally assembled, 1 amidst ever-green oaks, wood-laurels, and fragments of the entablature, frieze, cornices, and capitals of columns, which seem to have once belonged to the Temple of Apollo, built by Augustus, after the vic- tory of Actium : for, among the ’ decorations of the frieze and cor- nice, are griffins and tridents in- terlaced with dolphins ; symbols of a naval triumph : and moreover, griffins were consecrated toApollo. These finely executed fragments , are now overgrpwn by the acan- thus; which flourishes here so luxuriantly that one might fancy it planted on purpose to point out the source of Corinthian archi- tectural ornaments. Here lies neglected, on the grass, the ori- 1 ginal medallion of the arms of Arcadia, the Syrinx of Pan en- 5 circled with pine and laurel; which medallion once adorned the place of meeting. This garden likewise contains two small sub- terranean apartments, commonly called the Baths of Livia ; in which, by the aid of torches, re- mains may be discovered of beau- tiful arabesques, and a consider- able quantity of gilding, bright as if just done : here also are small 1 The Arcadian Academy, one of the most k celebrated in Europe, was founded in the ! fear 1690, and warmly patronised by Chris- Icina of Sweden and the Literati of her time. 1 ;ts membei’S, at the commencement of the ; nstitution, met in the Farnese Garden ; and, iftcrward, at the Bosco Parrasio, on the Ja- iiiculum hill : but, at present, they assemble n a house provided for them by the Roman Government ; and in which resides their lip ustode Generate , the learned and vene- I table Abate Godart. 2 Among the frescos are two medallions i representing the story of Hercules and Cacus. I Hie Cave of this famous robber, according • o the fable, stood between the Tiber and I he Temple of Hercules (now, according to Jome writers, the Church of S. Alexius), on |heAventinc Hill. 1 3 Nero’s Golden House ( Doitius Auvea) bassi-rilievi, in stucco. Beyond the baths of Livia is a dilapidated villa of modern date, adorned with frescos, 2 probably by Raphael’s scholars : and from a terrace here, the view of Rome, and its envi- rons, is magnificent. Returning hence, and going round that part of the garden which fronts the Capitol, you find a considerable number of subterranean buildings; some of which resemble the Setle Salle belonging to Titus’s Baths ; and might probably, like them, have served as reservoirs for wa- ter. This garden also contains ruins of the Theatre built by Cali- gula; and a spacious Hall, the roof of which is well preserved. On quitting theOrti Farnesiani, and continuing to ascend the Pa- latine hill, you find, on the left, the Chiesa di S. Bonaventura; previous to reaching which, turn through a gate- way, on the right, that leads to the Villa-Spada, a modern edifice, built on the foun- dations of some part of the im- perial residence ; and, probably, that called Nero’s Golden House. 3 On entering this Villa, you find a portico adorned with frescos, all of which, except one that repre- sents Venus, and is attributed to Raphael, are by Giulio Romano, joined the Imperial Palace of Augustus; and is supposed to have extended over the whole of the Celian Hill. Under the steeple of the Church of S. John and S. Paul are Ruins of a noble Portico, which is said to have be- longed to this golden house : and foundations of other buildings, which probably belonged to it likewise, may Ire traced the whole way from the Villa Spada to the Esquiline Hill. It had a triple poilico, supported by a thou- sand columns : it contained accom modal ions for animals, both wild and tame; and in the vaulted roofs of the banqueting rooms were machines of ivory that turned round, and. from pipes, scattered flowers and perfumes The principal eating room was a rotunda, so constructed that it turned round night and day, in imitation of the motion of the earth ; and the baths were supplied with sea-water, and the sulphureous waters of Albuke. N m ROME. [CH. VII. who has painted, on the roof, two small pictures, representing Her- cules^ some of the Muses, and other heathen divinities. The garden of the Villa contains three ancient subterranean Apartments, which are beautiful in point of ar- chitecture, and well preserved : they seem originally to have been adorned with arabesques, judging from the remains now distinguish- able : and, here was found the superb basin of red porphyry which adorns the circular hall in the Vatican Museum. Beyond these subterranean apartments, and quite at the end of the garden, are a few balustrades; said, by some authors, to mark the spot where the signal for commencing the games in the Circus Maximus was given. To the left of this spot is a large oblong Court, sup- posed to have been a Hippodrome ; and a magnificent Hall, the roof of which is entire, and decorated with medallions in stucco. 1 The Garden of the Convent of S. Bonaventura contains ruins of the Aqueduct, erected by Nero, as a continuation of the Claudian aqueduct, to supply his golden house with water. From the Villa-Spada go back to the Arch of Titus, pass that of Constantine; and, when nearly parallel with the Church of S. Gregorio sul Monte-Celio, turn to the right toward the Forum-Boa- rium, and you will find a door, leading, by a narrow flight of steps, to what is now called the Palazzo cle Cesari , in the Garden of the English College. Here are 1 The Villa Spada was shown to me, with great civility and patience, by a man in appearance poverty-stricken ; who, when I offered him Ihe usual fee, and indeed strongly pressed him to accept it, answered (while the blood mounted to his cheeks), “I take considerable vestiges of stately porticos, spacious halls, and num- berless arches, interspersed with ever-green oaks, laurels, flowering ; shrubs, aloes, and Indian figs; ! forming altogether a most pictu- resque and impressive scene. One part of these ruins completely overlooks the Circus Maximus, which lies immediately below it ; ! and here is a terrace, probably the site of the banqueting hall of the Emperors, whence Nero threw down his napkin, as the signal l| for beginning the games, when the populace were clamorous for their commencement ; and where Caligula, on being roused from sleep, by a similar clamour, or- dered the Gladiators to drive away the people ; in consequence of which cruel command, several were killed. The ancient pave- ment of the terrace still remains entire: and, from this spot, the continuation of tbeClaudianAque- duct, by Nero, may be seen to great advantage. Fragments of ancient paintings are discoverable throughout all the ruins of the Palazzo de’ Cesari. Circus Maximus , made, by Tarquinius Priscus, between the Palatine and Aventine hills. The length of this Circus is computed to have been four stadia, or fur- longs ; and its breadth the same : it contained a trench ten feet deep, and as many broad, to receive water ; together with seats for one hundred and fifty thousand spec- tators : it was much beautified by succeeding princes ; and particu- larly by Julius Caesar, Augustus, no money : I am placed here as a penance for my sins, which are manifold. 1 have con- tinued here three years;- how much longer I may be doomed to remain, I know nol : but 1 can accept no gratuity whatsoever.” ROME. 135 CII. VII.] I Caligula, Domitian, Trajan, and Heliogabalus ; and enlarged to ,so vast an extent, as to receive, in their respective seats, two hun- dred and sixty thousand specta- tors : its form, with the trench and water running through its centre, may still be traced. Chiesa di S. Gregoria ' sul Monte-celio , said to be built on the foundations of a Patrician house, and to retain its ancient shape. This church is finely si- tuated; and in the adjoining Gar- den are three Chapels, built by S. Gregorio. The first, dedicated to his mother, S. Silvia, contains her statue, by Niccolo Cordieri; frescos on the ceiling, by Guido ; and four saints in chiaro scuro , by the same master. The second Chapel contains two celebrated (frescos; the one painted by Do- menichino, the other by Guido, in jorderto prove which was the bet- ter artist. That done by Dome- nichino represents the flagellation of S. Andrew!! that by Guido represents the same Saint going to suffer martyrdom ! ! The figures JiofS. Peter andS. Paul, near the altar, are by Guido. The third Chapel contains a statue of S. Gregorio, begun by Buonaroti, and finished by Cordieri. This garden commands a beautiful view of the Palace of the Caesars. 1 TermediTito. These Baths, which, twenty years since, were completely choked up with rubbish and vegetable earth, apparently thrown in to destroy them, are plow open to the light of day ; and exhibit beautiful frescos in as per- fect preservation as they could have been when first produced by . 1 By entering ibe quadrangle, and ringing a hell on the right, you may always gain ■pdmiltanco lo the Church and Chapels of the artist’s pencil near two thou- sand years ago. The Romans learnt the use of baths from the Greeks ; and though, at first, em- ployed merely for the purposes of health ; they in time became an object of luxury and magnificence. The Baths of Titus were smaller than those of Diocletian and Ca- racalla : but superior in point of architecture, and more elegantly ornamented : the lower part of the edifice served for bathing ; the upper part for academies and gymnastic exercises. Communi- cating with the Baths are ruins called the Palace of Titus , where the group of Laocoon and his children was found ; and, not far hence, the Belvedere-Antinous, o r , according to Y isconti ,Mercu ry , was found likewise. Near this spot were the gardens of Meceenas ; in a building belonging to which Nero stood to see Rome in flames; and near this spot also were the houses of Horace and Virgil. The Baths of Titus are damp. To the east of the Palace and Baths of Titus, and enclosed within a garden, are immense re- servoirs, called Sette Salle, which evidently belonged to the Baths, and are in tolerable preservation. Chiesa di S. Marline in Monte. This beautiful church, not far distant from the Sette Salle, is erected upon that part of the Baths of Titus which was added by Domitian and Trajan : such, at least, seems to be the opinion of antiquaries ; because the brick- work in these Baths is very inferior to that in the Baths built by Titus. The modern edifice is adorned with twenty-four magnificent co- S. Gregorio : they are, daring winter, damp and cold. 136 ROME. lumns, brought from Adrian’s Villa at Tivoli. The Vase for holy water is ancient. The high- altar, erected about twenty years ago, is peculiarly rich in pre- cious marbles ; the paintings which adorn its vicinity were done by Antonio Cavalluccio, who lies buried here. The side aisles are embellished with landscapes, by Gasparo Poussin ; the figures in which are by Niccolo Poussin ; and the upper landscapes are remark- ably well preserved. The Chapel of the Madonna, at the end of the left side aisle, is ornamented with paintings by Cavalluccio. and very line marbles. The steps leading down to the Burial-Place under the high-altar, and the burial- place itself, were designed by Pietro di Cortona : and here are other stairs, leading to the an- cient subterranean Church, which is a part of the Baths, called those of Titus, and famous for being the spot where Pope S. Silvestro held a council, assisted by Con- stantine and his mother. The mosaic pavement, and matted roof of the baths (on which perhaps were paintings), still remain per- fect; as do the walls ; and here you encounter no very damp air ; therefore invalids may go down with safety. Chiesa di S. Pietro in Vincoli. This fine Church, which owes its present form to Antonio Sangallo, has a double cupola, like that of S. Peter’s. The three aisles are divided by twenty magnificent Doric columns of Grecian marble taken from Diocletian’s Baths : the circular wall behind the high- altar made a part of Titus’s Baths ; whence the pavement of the Sa- cristy likewise was taken. Here is a picture of S. Margherita, by fen. VII. Guercino. Here also is the Mo- nument of Julius ii., designed by Buonaroti, who died soon after he had finished the much-admired figure of Moses ; in consequence of which the other figures were done by Montelupo. The Mo- numents of Cardinals Margotti and Agucci were executed after the designs of Domenichino : and at the end of the tribuna is an ancient pontifical Chair in high preservation. The Sacristy con- tains a picture, by Domenichino, of S. Peter delivered from prison. Chiesa di S. Maria della JSa - j vicella , so called from the model of an ancient galley, said to have been a votive offering, and placed J before it, by Leo x. This Church, , d designed by Raphael, and sup- |! posed to stand on the site of the ancient Castra Peregrina, or bar- E racks for auxiliary soldiers, isem- ' bellished with fine columns of por- ! phyry and granite, and a frieze beautifullypaintedinnjfo'tfrosa^ro, f by Giulio Romano and Pierino del Vaga. The Presbytery, likewise, was painted by the same artists; s as were two Altar-Pieces of the j Chapels, one representing part of the Transfiguration, the other the 1 Baptism of our Saviour. Near this spot is the Arch of the Consul Dolabella, over which Nero erected the Aqueduct that ■ supplied his Golden House with j water. j i Chiesa di S. Stefano Rotondo . ! formerly the Temple of Claudius. This beautiful and interesting edifice was built by Agrippina, in honour of her husband Claudius ; destroyed by Nero, and rebuilt by j Vespasian ; which accounts for ; the columns not being uniform . It 1 seems to have had two entrances. The interior part still retains the ROME. 137 : CH. VII.] precise form, together with all the majesty of an ancient temple: and is embellished with a double row : of columns, fifty-eight in number, and chiefly granite. The roof is modern. This edifice was con- verted into a Christian Church by Pope S. Simplicius : it is, during winter, damp and cold. 1 Obelisk of the Piazza del Po - polo ; said to have been made at Heliopolis, 522 years before the Christian era. ft was brought to Rome by Augustus; found in the Circus Maximus ; and placed in its present situation by Sixtus v. Its height, from the ground to the top of the cross, is 1 12 feet. ! To record the exploits of he- roes, and to decorate their temples and their tombs, seems to have been the origin of Egyptian obe- lisks : and most of those which now adorn Rome are engraved with hieroglyphics; which, could we understand them, might throw Important lights on the history of past ages. Obelisk of the Trinitd de' •Monti. This Obelisk formerly stood in the Circus of Sallust, and was placed in its present situation by Pius vi. : it is forty-four feet and a half in height, without the pedestal, and of Egyptian gra- nite. 2 Villa-Medici, now the French Academy. On the back-front of his y ilia s a fine basso-rilievo of iercules strangling the Nemean ion. The Garden of the Yilla- Vledici is always open to the public. Statues, and Obelisk, in the : j 1 The churches of La Navicella and S. Ste- ja.no Rotondo are generally shut: hut the jacristan ot the former lives in the vicinity ; I nd the Sacristan ot the latter may he found : laily, at the new Academy of S. Luke. 2 The Promenade on the Trinita de’ Mon- ' jh begun by the French, and now nearly Piazza di Monte - Cavallo ; so called, from the admirable sculp- ture with which it is embellish- ed; namely, two colossal figures, supposed to represent Castor and Pollux, each holding a horse. These twin-gods, the works of Phidias and Praxiteles, are es- teemed the finest things of their description at Ptome ; especially that done by the first-mentioned artist. They once adorned Athens; and are generally supposed to have been brought to Rome, from Alex- andria, by Constantine, in whose Baths they wei*e found; though some authors tell us they were sent to Nero, as a present, from Tiridates, king of Armenia. The horses are ill executed, and chief- ly modern. The Obelisk, which stands between the statues, was erected by Pius vi. : it is com- posed of red granite ; measures forty-five feet, without the pedes- tal ; and originally adorned the Mausoleum of Augustus. 3 Chiesa di S. Bernardo. This edifice, the ancient form and roof of which are quite perfect, merits notice, as belonging to Diocle- tian’s Baths. Some persons sup- pose it to have been a Calidarium balneum , or hot bath ; but the more general opinion is, that this rotunda, and the one opposite to it, near the Villa-Negroni, were temples dedicated to Apollo and TEsculapius. The convent and garden of the Monks of S. Ber- nardo, the church, convent, and garden of the Carthusians, the public granaries, together with a large space, called Piazza di Ter- finished by the present Pope, is the plea- santest walk and drive at Rome. 3 The circular Basin belonging to the Fountain of Moute-Cavallo is said to be the largest piece of granite, of this description, in Rome. 138 ROME. mini, a corruption of the word Thermos, all likewise belonged to Diocletian’s Baths ; which build- ing seems to have been nearly of a square form, enclosing halls, where the youth were instructed, and where men of learning as- sembled to read their composi- tions ; an open theatre, where shows were exhibited in fine weather; the Natatio , the Sphas- risterium ; th e Xystum ; the Apo- dyterium ; the Hypocaustum ; and the different baths, namely, frigidarium , tepid avium, calda- rium, and laconicum. Three sides of the Natatio , where peo- ple swam in the open air, were bounded by porticos (it occu- pied what is now the cloister of the Carthusians) ; on each side of these porticos were Basilicas and Dicetas, where public assemblies were held, and sumptuous en- tertainments given : adjoining to these apartments was an oblong room, probably the place for playing at ball and, immediate- ly behind the Natatio, was the Xystum , where the gladiators and wrestlers exhibited in bad weather; this is now the Church of S. Maria degli Angeli. The baths, properly so named, ex- tended in a straight line opposite to the Theatridium and Biblio- thecas : the Apodyterium, or great hall, where the bathers undressed and dressed themselves, was in the centre of the baths. In the centre 1 The ancien t Romans played with several kinds of bails: namely, the Harp as turn, or foot-ball, which, being placed between two companies of young ruen, they strove who should drive it through the others’ goal : the Filci, so called from being stuffed with hair : the Follis, so called from being made of a bladder; and with this old men and young children played: the Paganica, a ball stuffed with feathers; which derived its name from villages, where it was chiefly seen: and the Trigonalis, an appellation common to the Fila and Follis , and allusive to the form of [Ctt. VII. of the baths likewise was the Hy- pocaustum, or great stove ; whence hot water was conveyed, in pipes, and hot air, in flues, to the differ- ent chambers : and this part of the building, which is still preserved, serves as an Atrium to the Car- thusian church. In the Villa- Negroni are remains of the great reservoir ; and round the exterior of the Baths were walks shaded j with plane-trees. 2 Chiesa di S. Maria degli An- geli. Pius iv. dedicated Diocle- tian’s Baths to sacred uses ; be- cause the Christians who built them suffered martyrdom : and Buonaroti, who was employed to erect the church, finding, among the ruins of these baths, an im- mense apartment, supported by ) stupendous columns of oriental « granite (the Xystum already men* li tioned), formed it into the present ti Church of S. Maria degli Angeli. il The entrance to this majestic edi- fice, which may vie with S. Peter’s in beauty, was a Caldariwn be- t longing to the baths, and contains it the Monuments of Carlo Maratta p and Salvator Rosa. The church e i' self is in the shape of a Greek pi cross : the nave is 179 feet long : its height 105 feet ; and the an- gi tique columns, already mentioned, sli are sixteen feet in circumference I t by forty-three high. The pave- fo ment is beautiful, and contains a oi celebrated meridian by Monsig- 3, nore Bianchini. Near the high S, # H pg the tennis-courts where these halls were used. 2 The expense of bathing in a public balh ' at Rome was equivalent to about one half- ( penny for an adult; but, for a child, nothing: i the rich, however, had their persons rubbed ‘ with oils and ointments of great value. Hot baths were only used at a stated hour of the evening. Each man stopped at the bath (| which he judged proper for himself: and if c j he made use of the Laconicum, he returned through the different hot baths ; and was thus cooled gradually, before he reached the apodyterium. ft' ! 0 ROME. 139 ■CH. VII.] altar is a picture, by Carlo Ma- ra tta, of the Baptism of Our Sa- viour, much injured by time ; and another of the Martyrdom of S. Sebastian, by Domenichino, in good preservation ! ! This church also contains a fine picture of the Fall of Simon Magus, by Pompeio Battoni ; and another of S. Peter raising Tabitha, by Placido Cos- tanza. The Pope's Oil-Cellar , near S. , Maria degli Angeli, merits notice, as it is a well-preserved part of Diocletian’s Baths. Obelisk of S. Maria Maggiore. This obelisk is of red Egyptian granite, and forty-three feet in height, without the pedestal : it . was brought to Rome by the Em- peror Claudius ; and served as one ; of the ornaments to the Mail so- . Ieum of Augustus ; whence it was taken, by Sixtus v., and placed in ji its present situation. Column in the Piazza di S. I Maria Maggiore. This Corin- I thian fluted column, of Parian marble, was taken from the Tem- ple of Peace ; and measures fifty- eight feet in height, without its pedestal. Basilica di S, Maria Mag- \\giore. 1 This Church, which ■ stands on the summit of the Es- I quiline Hill, was erected upon the foundations of an ancient temple I) of Juno-Lucina, about the year 352; and afterward enlarged by I Sixtus hi. It was likewise re- i paired by Benedict xiv. ; who Ij found, about eight palms below the pavement of the church, a black and white mosaic marble i 1 Several of these ancient Courts of Jus- I tice, called Basilica, were converted into I I churches, and still retain their original ap- I pellalion. j 2 These Mosaic Pavements of the middle I, ages were called Opus Jlexandrinum, from pavement, which is of that kind invented by Alexander Severus. 2 The nave is supported by an- tique Ionic columns, thirty-six of which are white marble, and four granite. The Baldacchino is sup- ported by antique columns of por- phyry. The arch which separates the choir from the nave is adorned with mosaics of the fifth century. The chapel of Sextus v., builtafter the designs of F ontana, isincrusted with fine marbles, and adorned with Corinthian pilasters, bassi-ri- lievij and paintings. On the right stand the tomb and statue of Six- tus v. : in the middle is the altar of the Holy Sacrament, decorated with a magnificent tabernacle, supported by four angels of bronze gilt ; and on the left, the tomb of Pius v. Among the paintings those most admired are, the Annuncia- tion, by Pompeio Battoni, and the Holy Family , by AgostinoMasucci . The Borghese-Chapel, built by Paul v., is peculiarly rich in mar- bles, paintings, and sculpture. On the right stands the tomb of the above-named Pontiff, surmounted by his statue: here, likewise, are statues of S. Basil and David, by Niccolo Cordieri ; and the tomb and statue of Clement vnr. ; with statues of Aaron and S. Bernardo, by Cordieri of Lorrain. The pain- tings between the windows, and on the arches above the tombs, are by Guido ! ! The altar of the Madonna is magnificently adorned with oriental jasper, agate, and lapis lazuli ; and on its entabla- ture is a fine basso-rilievi. The frescos above, and round the altar, the inventor. Mosaics, however, seem to have been originally invented by the Per- sians : for they were used in Persia during the reign of Artaxerxes ; thence carried into Assyria, thence to Greece, and, some ages after, to Rome. 140 ROME. [CH. VII. and in the vault and angles of the cupola, are by the Cav. d’Arpino. The Slorza-Chapel was designed by Buonaroti. This Basilica is so loaded with gilding and other ornaments, that it resembles a place of public diversion more than a Christian temple. Obelisk of S. Giovanni in La- terano. This obelisk is the largest at Rome ; and supposed to have been even more lofty once, than it is a present. It was originally placed in the Temple of the Sun, at Thebes, by Rameses King of Egypt, transported to Rome by the son of Constantine, and erect- ed, in its present situation, by Sixtus v.: its height, without base or pedestal, is one hundred and fifteen feet , and its diameter nine. Battisterio di Costantino . This edifice was built by Constantine, and repaired by Gregory xiii. and Urban vm.: its form is octagon; and three steps lead down to the font, which is an ancient tomb of marble of Ponsevero. The dome is supported by fine porphyry co- lumns, with an antique entabla- ture ; and adorned with paintings representing the life of S. John Baptist, by Andrea Sacchi. Other paintings, on the walls, represent the vision of Constantine; his battle with Maxentius; and the destruction of the Idols; which last is by Carlo Maratta. In one of the Chapels are two curious fluted pillars of verde antique ; in the other, two columns of oriental alabaster; and the original en- trance to this Baptistery is adorn- ed with two noble pillars of por- 1 The name of Laterano is supposed to he derived from Plautius Lateranus, Consul elect, who engaged with Seneca and others in the great conspiracy against Nero, and thereby lost his life : hence his palace, hav- phyry and an antique entabla- ture. L Basilica di S. Giovanni in Laterano. 1 This stately edifice was erected by Constantine ; and called the mother church of Rome ; though the church of S. Martin and S. Luke is really so. The great portico is adorned with a colossal statue of Constantine, found in his baths ; the front of the building, toward the Naples- gate, is beautiful ; and the bronze- door, ornamented with bassi-ri- lievi , was taken from the Temple of Saturn. The interior of the church is divided, by four rows of pilasters, into one large, and fiJbr small aisles; and the centre aisle, or nave, is adorned with statues of the Apostles ; among which are Saints Thomas and Baitholomew, by Le Gros; and S. Andrew, S. James minor, and S. John, by Rusconi. The pavement is mo- saic. The altar of the Holy Sa- crament is adorned with four magnificent fluted columns of bronze gilt, supposed to have been taken from the Temple of Jupiter Capitolinus; and, above these columns, is a fresco, by the Cav. d’Arpino, representing the ascension of our Saviour into Heaven! The tabernacle, formed of precious marbles, is placed be- tween two Angels of bronze gilt, and four columns of verde antique. At the top of the centre-aisle, near the high-altar, are two noble columns of red granite ; and, near the door leading to the Bap- tistery, two fluted columns of giallo antico, deemed the finest specimens extant of that marble. ing been confiscated, probably remained in possession of the Emperors, tilt Constan- tine gave it lo the Church, and built the j Basilica of S. Giovanni, properly the Pope’s Cathedral. CH. viij In this church are the Tombs of the Cav. d’Arpino, Andrea Sac- ■chi, and Boniface vnr. ; the last of which is ornamented with a fresco, supposed to have been done by Giotto, and representing Boniface, between two Cardinals, publishing the first jubilee of the holy year, in 1300. The Corsini- Chapel (to the left of the great ;door) is particularly elegant ; and was erected by Clement xii., in honour of his ancestor S. Andrea Corsini. Over the altar, between two verde antique columns, is a portrait, in mosaic, beautifully copied from a painting by Guido, of S. Andrea Corsini. On one side of the chapel is the monument of Clement xii. ; said to have been once the tomb of Agrippa : it was taken from the Pantheon ; and is, in point of shape, the most beau- tiful sarcophagus extant. On the opposite side stands the tomb of Cardinal Neri Corsini* In this chapel, likewise, are four statues, Representing the four cardinal vir- tues; one of which, Fortitude, is by Rusconi, and much admired; as are the four bassi-rilievi in the jipper part of the chapel. The pavement is beautiful ; and the subterranean part of this building merits notice ; as it is simple and ippropriate, and contains a fine Pietd. In the Sacristy of S. Gio- vanni in Laterano is an Annun- ciation, designed, if not executed, ay Buonaroti. Scala Santa. This Edifice is :elebraled for containing twenty- seven steps of white marble, re- futed to have belonged to the Palace of Pilate. Not far hence is an Arch, or tribune, adorned with the famous Triclinium of S. Leo ; a mosaic lu’iginally placed in the eating 141 room of the palace of that Pope, to perpetuate the event of his having crowned Charlemagne Emperor of the west. Anfiteatro Castrense. This building now makes part of the wall of Borne, near the Naples- gate ; though it formerly stood on the outside of the city : it was called Castrensis , becaute appro- priated to military games, and combats between soldiers and wild beasts. The interior of the building may be seen in a garden on the right of the Church of S. Croce in Gerusalemme ; nothing, however, remains, except a few arches. The exterior part, which was adorned with two rows of co- lumns, should be viewed from the outside of the Naples-gate. Basilica di Santa Groce in Gc- rusalemme. This Church, one of the seven Basilica; of Rome, was erected by Constantine near an ancient Sessorium ; which seems to have been converted into the entrance of the church ; and makes a magnificent vesti- bule. The approach from S. Giovanni in Laterano to S. Croce in Gerusalemme, is particularly handsome ; and exhibits fine re- mains of the Aurelian Wall of Rome : the latter church derives its name from part of the Cross which S. Helena brought from Jerusalem, and deposited here. On each side of the great door is a Yase for holy water, very simi- lar to those in the Cathedral at Siena; and, like them, contain- ing marble fishes beautifully exe- cuted. The nave is supported by eight fine columns of Egyptian granite; and its ceiling adorned with a fresco by Conrad Giaquin- to ; who likewise painted that part of the ceiling of the Tribuna ROME. 142 ROME. c which is over the high-altar : the other part was done by Pinturic- chio, and represents the finding of the Cross. The high-altar is adorned with four rare columns of breccia corallina, and an an- cient sarcophagus of basalt. The pavement of the church is an- tique. This edifice contains the subterranean Chapel of S. He- lena, adorned with curious an- cient mosaics, and art inscription in her honour* On the right, coming out of the church, is a Garden, which ex- hibits considerable remains of a building, called the Temple of Venus and Cupid; but, more probably, one of the halls, or temples, which adorned the Baths of S. Helena. This Garden like- wise exhibits magnificent remains of the Claudian Aqueduct : and, not far hence, was an Altar con- secrated to bad Fortune. Chiesa di S. Bihiana. 1 Here are eight antique columns ; and a fine antique sarcophagus of ori- ental alabaster, with a leopard’s head in its centre : and here, like- wise, is a celebrated statue of S. Bibiana, by Bernini ! Tempio di Minerva- Medica. This picturesque ruin stands in a garden, the door of which is ge- nerally open. The temple is round without, but decagon within ; and seems to have had six windows and nine niches for statues. Here was found a celebrated statue of Minerva, with a serpent at her feet : but, whether this building was dedicated to Minerva-Medica or not, seems uncertain. In the same garden is the Aruntian Se- pulchre ; together with subterra- nean vaulted Apartments , sup- posed to have been the recep- 1 It is difficult to gain admission to this ch [CH. VII. tacles of the Plebeian Dead ; i whose ashes were consigned to ^ small earthenware urns, simply i inscribed with a name, and an exclamation of sorrow. j f Arco di Gallieno , commonly j i called Arco di S. Vito. Accord- ll ing to the inscription on this arch, dj it was erected in honour of the coi Emperor whotfe name it bears. It f is Doric ; and proves the decline co of architecture in the days of Gal- lienus. j of Remains of five Aqueducts are ft discoverable in this quarter of the ' city; namely, the Martian, Te - 1 pulan, Julian , Claudian, and. the ■ Anio-novus ; and near the church it of S. Eusebio is a considerable Dl ruin of a Castellum of one of these di aqueducts. i pa Chiesa di S. Prassede. The fa high-altar of this ancient edifice M is adorned with a handsome bal- dacchino, supported by four fine w columns of porphyry ; the tribuna ai is adorned with ancient mosaics ; j)l and leading to it are magnificent cit steps of rosso antico, composed Fi of the largest blocks extant of that ai rare marble, the fauns of the Ca« ft pitol and Vatican excepted. In II this church is a column, supposed k to be that Our Saviour was fast- la ened to when scourged. In the i Sacristy is a painting of the Fla- wl gellation, by Giulio Romano ; and sc m one of the Chapels are three i paintings relative to the life of S. at Carlo Borromeo, by an English lii Painter, named Sterne : they are j finely executed, and dated 1741. 1 This church leads to the Cata- i combs. i Campidoglio. This hill, origi- t nally called Mons Saiurnius , and ( afterward Tarpeius, from Tar- ] peia, who admitted the Sabines I te irch, unless it he ver y early in the morning. j m ROME. 143 'CH. VII.] into the fortress erected here, was, according to tradition, de- nominated Capitole , or Capito- lium, because, when Tarquin the elder ordered the foundations of a temple of Jupiter to be laid on this spot, the workmen, while digging, found a human head : in consequence of which the augurs predicted that Rome would be- come mistress of the world. When we recollect the number of splendid edifices which adorned the ancient Capitol, we are led to think its extent must have been immense: but, when we view the spot, and see how circumscribed it is, we can only account for the number of its temples by con- cluding, that here, as in various parts of the city, one edifice was frequently destroyed to make (room for another. The square of the ancient Capitol was adorned with porticos by Scipio Nasica; and in its centre was the trium- phal arch of Nero. The most an- cient temple was that of Jupiter i . Feretrius , erected by Romulus; land its dimensions were only ten ifeet in length, andfive in breadth. 1 The temple of Jupiter- Capita- Linus , finished by the younger Tarquin, was much larger; and when consumed by lightning, which happened more than once, seems to have increased in mag- nitude every time it rose from its ashes. The last person who re- built this temple was Domitian ; and he is said to have expended 1 twelve thousand talents in gilding Lit. Here were deposited the spoils Ijof conquered nations, as offerings i to the gods from the Senate, Consuls, and Emperors of Rome. The statue of Jupiter was gold ; 1 The statues of the gods, placed in the I temples of Rome, during the days of Ro- ll mulus, were made of potters’ clay ; and the llsacred statues of the Capitol, when injured and so, likewise, was that of Vic- tory ; which is said to have weighed three hundred and twenty pounds. Here, also, were the temples of Jupiter-Moneta, Fortuna-Primo- gemta, Fortuna-Priva ta, Fortu- na-Fiscola, Vejovis , Isis , Serapis , etc. embellished by statues with- out and within ; so that the Capi- tol was denominated The Hall of the Gods. Of these magnificent edifices, however, scarcely a wreck remains : so that the modern Ca- pitol bears no resemblance to the ancient. The present steps, and two side buildings of the latter, were planned by Buonaroti, at the command of Paul hi. : and the front of the Senator’s house was likewise rebuilt, after the design of Buonaroti. At the bottom of the steps are two Lionesses in basalt, of Egyptian workmanship ; and, on the left side, two arches, under which are large stones, sup- posed to have made part of the foundation of the Temple of Jupi- ter Feretrius. On the top of the steps are two colossal Statues, re- puted to be Greek sculpture ; but more probably Roman ; one re- presents Castor and the other Pol- lux, with their respective horses. On a line with these statues are beautiful Trophies, called those of Marius, but rather supposed to have been done in honour of Trajan’s victory over the Dacians : they once adorned a Castellum of the Julian Aqueduct; and Pira- nesi calls them trophies of Augus- tus. On the same line, likewise, are Statues of the two Sons of Constantine; together with two Roman mile-stones: that num- bered “I,” and standing on the right, being the column which by time or accident, were not destroyed, but placed in subterraneous depositories, called Favissa. 444 anciently marked the first mile of the Yia-Appia ; that on the left, modern. In the centre of the square is a bronze equestrian Statue of Marcus Aurelius, once gilt ! ! ! 1 This is the only antique bronze equestrian statue extant. Fronting the steps is the Senators House, which stands on the ruins of the ancient Tabularium , and under the entrance door, is a Sta- tue of Rome triumphant, in Parian marble draped with porphyry : a recumbent statue of the Nile; and another of the Tiber, both in Greek marble. On the right side of the square is the Palazzo de 1 Gonservatori ; and on the left the Museo-Capitolino. Beyond the former, on the south side of the hill, are steps which lead to the spot where stood the temple of Jupiter Capitolinus ; near which, in a Garden, belonging to a house numbered 139, is that part of the Tarpeian Rock whence, it is sup- posed, criminals were thrown down into the Forum. 2 The gar- den fronts Caracalla’s Baths ; and the rock, in this place, may, per- haps, be sixty feet high at the present moment ; and formerly it must evidently have been much more; as the level of the Forum is full twenty feet higher now than it was originally. Chiesa di S. Maria cf Aracceli, anciently the Temple of Jupiter Feretrius. The steps leading up to this church, from the side of the Campus Martius, are an hun- dred and twenty-four in number, and the marble of which they are made was taken from the temple of Jupiter Quirinus, on the Quiri- t It was found near the Scala Santa, on the spot where the house 9f his grandfather, Annius Verus, is said to have stood. Winckel- mann supposes the statue of the horse to he more ancient than that of the Emperor; and particularly praises the head of the horse. [ch. vir. nal hill. The interior of the edi- fice is supported by twenty-two antique columns, chiefly Egyptian granite ; and the third column on the left (entering by the great door), bears this inscription : t; A Cubiculo Angus to rum." 3 It is said that Augustus, about the time of our Saviour’s birth, erected here an altar, under the name of Ara Primogeniti Dei , now cor- rupted into Aracceli ; and an altar, said to be that above-mentioned, is still preserved in this church, and stands between the high-altar and sacristy. The choir behind the high-altar contains a picture, by Raphael, of the Holy Family, which was injured, and has been ill restored. The Chapel of S. Francesco is finely painted, by Trevisani ; and here, likewise, is a Chapel painted by Pinturicchio and Luca Signorelli. Chiesa di S. Pietro in Carcere, or, more properly, S. Giuseppe. Qn the right, going down from the Capitoline hill to this church, are large stones, belonging pro- bably to the ancient Tabularium. Under the church is an ancient Prison, built by Ancus Martius, and called II Carcere Mamertino : it is quite perfect, and well worth seeing, though cold and damp. Here S. Peter was confined; and, in the lowest part of this prison, near a small column to which the Apostle was bound, is a spring of water, said to have issued forth miraculously, that he might bap- tize the two gaolers, and forty- seven other persons, all of whom afterward suffered martyrdom. Palazzo delSenatore di Roma. 2 Dionysius of Halicarnassus says, that criminals were throw n down from the Tar- peian Rock into the Forum. 3 The Cubicularii were officers of the bedchamber belonging to the Imperial Court. ROME. ROME. CH. VII.] 445 The view from the Tower which crowns this building is particularly worth notice, as it exhibits all the ancient edifices of the city, and shows their respective situa- tions. Palazzo de Conservatori. In the quadrangle, beyond the arcade, are statues of Rome triumphant, and the weeping Province ! two Dacian Kings, and two Egyptian Divinities, all in the same line. The quadrangle likewise contains a Group of a Lion devouring a Horse ! the Bust, and one Hand, of a colossal statue of Gommodus; the Bust of Domitian ; and im- mense Feet, and one Hand of a mu tilated colossal statue of A polio f The arcade contains a Statue of Julius Caesar — Ditto of Augustus, done apparently after the battle of Actium, by the prow of a galley with which it is adorned — a Bac- chante— a rostral Column— and a Lion on a pedestal, which bears an inscription of the time of A- drian. To the right of the arcade are eight rooms, recently adorned with Busts, many of which were taken from the Pantheon ; and on the staircase, opposite to these rooms, are four bassi-rilievi, which originally belonged to the trium- phal Arch of Marcus Aurelius on the Corso ; here likewise is a basso - rilievo (found in the forum), of Curtius leaping into the gulf ; and, on the landing-place, are two more bassi-rilievi, taken from the Arch Gf Aurelius. On this landing-place is a door which leads to the apartments not ! open to the public, but which the i Custode is happy to show for a I trifling gratuity. 1 Cicero tells us that, in his lime, the tur- rets of the Capitol, the statues of the gods, and the image of the infant Romulus suck- The first room contains Paint- ings by the Cav. d’Arpino ; name- ly, the battle of the Horatii and Curiatii — the battle of T ullus Hos- filius with the army of Yeii ! — the discovery of Romulus and Remus — Romulus founding Rome — the sacrifice of Numa Pompilius, and institution of the Vestal Virgins; and the rape of the Sabines. The second room contains Paint- ings by Laurenti ; namely, Junius Brutus condemning his sons to death for having conspired against the Republic — Horalius Codes, on theSublician bridge, opposing the Etrurians — Mutius Scaevola burn- ing his own hand in presence of Porsenna, after having killed one of the Etrurian Officers, whom he mistook for the King — and the battle in which the Tarquins were defeated. The third room contains a Frieze representing the triumph of Marius, by Daniello da Vol- terra ! — a Picture of S. Francesca Romana, by Romanelli; and a dead Christ, by Cosimo Piezza— the Statue of the bronze wolf, said to have been struck with light- ning when Ca3sar fell ! This sta- tue is evidently of high antiquity, and perhaps the work of an Etrus- can artist 1 — a bronze Bust of Ju- nius Brutus ! ! — two mosaic tables taken from Adrian’s Villa— a Bust of Julius Caesar— ditto of Apollo — a ti iform-Diana 2 — a Bust of Adrian — and a basso-rilievo re* presenting the temple of Janus, or, according to some opinions, the gate of Eternity. The fourth room contains a bronze Statue of a Youth, said to be the shepherd Martius takix.g a ing the Wolf, were struck down hy lightning. 2 Emblematical of her sovereignty over Hell, Earth, and Heaven. O 146 ROME. [CH. Til. iliorn out of his foot ! ! — -a Bust in basso-rilievo of Mithridates ! and the Fasti Consulares ! ! 1 The fifth room contains a Bust, in rosso antico, called Appius Clau- dius— a bust of Buonaroti— a bust of Medusa, by Bernini— and a bust of Tiberius; together with two Geese, in bronze, said to have been found in the Tarpeian Rock, and to be the representation of those geese which saved the Ca- pitol. Here , likewise, are the fol- lowing Paintings ; a Holy Family, by Giulio Romano ; and the Olym- pic games, attributed to Zuccari. The fifth room contains a Frieze painted by Annibale Caracci, and representing the military achieve- ments of Scipio Africanus — Ta- pestry, taken from the designs of Rubens — Busts of Sappho ! So- crates ! Ariadne ! and Sabina Pop- psea ! the second wife of Nero. The sixth room contains Fres- cos by Pietro Perugino, who has represented Hannibal in Capua— Rome triumphant over Sicily, etc, Here, likewise, are Statues ofVir- gil, Cicero, and Cybele. The seventh apartment is a Chapel, on the ceiling of which M. A. Caravaggio has represented the Deity. Here, also, are paint- ings of S. Cecilia, by Romanelli ! and the four Evangelists, by Ca- ravaggio, together with an altar- piece, byNucci. The eighth room has a door finely carved by Algardy. The next story cf this building contains the Picture Gallery , which is open to the public every Sunday and Thursday morning, from eleven till four o’clock. Some of the most striking pictures in 1 These precious remains of antiquity were found during the Pontificate of Paul m., near the church of S. Maria Libera- the first room are : No. 2, the Ma- donna, our Saviour, and Saints, copied by Bonatli, from Paolo Peronese— 4, the sacrifice of fphi- genia, by Pietro da Cortona— 5, the portrait of a lady, by Bron- zino— 6, S. Lucia, by Benvenuto Garofolo ! — 9, Vanity, by Titian ! —15, the rape of the Sabines, by Pietro da Cortona ! — 18, a por- trait, by Velasquez — 33, Hagar driven from the house of Abra- ham, by Francesco Mola — 36, Charity, by Annibale Caracci !• — 37, Bacchus and Ariadne, school of Guido — 38, the Sibyl Persica, by Guercino!!! — 39, the Ma- donna, our Saviour, S. Cecilia, and other Saints, by Annibale Caracci ! — 49, the Madonna, our Saviour, and S. Francesco, by Annibale Caracci— 41, the Holy Family, by Benvenuto Garofolo — 42, Mary Magdalene washing our Saviour’s feet; a miniature, by M. F. Zibaldi Subleras, copied from the original of her husband! — 13, the marriage of S. Caterina, by Correggio — 44, the Madonna and our Saviour, by Albano !•— 45, S. Maria Maddalena, by Tin- toretto!— 46, David with the head of Goliath by Romanelli — 48, the communion of S. Giro- lamo, by Agostino Caracci ! — 51, S. John Baptist, by Daniello da Volterra !— 52, [Christ disputing with the Doctors, by V alentino ! — 53, the Cumaean Sibyl, by Do- menichino ! ! — 60, S. John Bap tist, by Guercino — 63, a land- scape, with the figure of the Mag dalene, Caracci school— 64, th( Magdalene, by Albano — 65, th< triumph of Bacchus, by Pietro dt Cortona — 67, S. Cecilia, by Ro trice, in the Forum Roraanum, and proba bly in thal part which belonged to th Comitium. CH. VII.] ROME. 447 inanelli — 70, the beatified Spirit, by Guido!— 76, Romulus and Re- mus discovered with the wolf, at- tributed to Rubens— 86, the Ma- d o nna adoring our Saviour, by Pietro da Cortona— -89, a por- trait, by Titian — 90, Meleager in chiaroscuro , by Polidoro da Ca- ravaggio. Some of the most striking Pic- tures in the second room are — No. 2, a copy of Raphael’s Gala- tea, by Pietro da Cortona — 6, the Adoration of the Magi, by Garo- • folo — 11, a landscape, by Claude Lorrain — 12, Ditto, by ditto — 25, Love, by Guido — 33, an Ecce Homo , by Baroccio — 37, the Wo- man detected in Adultery, by Titian — 40, Europa, by Guido !— 41, Alexander’s victory over Da- rius, by Pietro da Cortona !— 43, a head, by Titian — 44, Polyphe- mus, by Guido — 47, the Presen- tation in the Temple, supposed to be by Fra Bartolomeo — 48, the Holy Family, by Andrea Sacchi | — 57, the Pool of Silome, by Do- menichino; (parts of this small picture are beautiful)— 58, a land- scape, by Claude Lorrain— 60, a Presepio/ by Garofolo— 62, the Madonna, Our Saviour, and S. John, by ditto — 63, the Judgment of Solomon, by Giacomo Bassano —6j, the raising of S. Petronilla’s Body from the Grave, and the As- cension of her Spirit into Heaven, byGuercino! ! ! — 72, a Gipsy tell- ing a youth his fortune, by Cara- vaggio ! — 73, the Madonna, Our Saviour, and Angels, by Peru- gino — 76, a Soldier seated, by Salvator Rosa -77, a half-length figure of S. Girolamo, by Pietro Facini — 78, a portrait of Pe- trarca, by Giovanni Bellino— 79, a landscape, by Domenichino — 80, a portrait of Buonarotl, by himself!— 82, a portrait of Gio, vanni Bellino, by himself— 86, a Witch, by Salvator Rosa— 89, S. Sebastiano, by Lodovico Garacci 03, Augustus and Cleopatra, by Guercino— 109, S. Barbara, a half-length figure, by Domenichi- no 111, the Holy Family, by Parmigiano — 113, S. Cristoforo, by Tintoretto— 114, S. Cecilia, by Lodovico Caracci !— 116, two Philosophers, by Calabrese— 120, the Graces, by Palma Giovane— 123, Europa, by Paolo Veronese ! Museo Capitolino, open to the public every Sunday and Thurs day morning, from twelve till four o’clock. 2 Some of the most striking ef- 1 This is a representation of Our Saviour °!i gh L m , wax > and sometimes well exe- H® d .\ T !Vf )es ! of . these exhibitions at Rome s m the Church of S. Maria d’Aracoeli. i 2 Those persons who wish to see the Mu pms of tfie Capitol and Vatican to adv^I hge should visit them by torch-light as tL fc *, like Promethean f&e, makes every sta- 4 e live; in consequence of which nerbana he most stupendous efforts of the Grecian a,«I were ong.ually placed iu suiter™ ™ jFor seeing the Vatican Museum, four | ar „ JI torcl,ei - Siskins about th’re e S and a half each, and costing altogether aliout six scudi are requisite. For seeing the Mu- seum ol the Capitol, two small wax torches, costing about twenty pauls the two, are suf- ncient. Admission, however, cannot be ob- tained to either Museum, for the purpose of viewing the statues by torch-light, with- out an order from the Pope’s Maggiordomo; which order never extends to more than htleen persons at the same time, and hut seldom to so many. It > expected that every parly shall come furnished with wax torches: and it is like- wise expected that each parly shall gfve, at the Capitol to the Custode who shows the an 4 , ,u ? attendants, from four to five scud,, provided there he fires in one or two of the apartments; and, at the Vatican, from seven to eight scudi, according to the number of fires m the apartments. m ROME. [CH. VII. forts of the chisel, in this magni- ficent collection, are : Quadrangle. No. I, a colossal Statue of the Ocean ! Arcade. No. 1, Endymion and liis Dog, the pedestal fine — 3, a colossal Statue of Minerva — 4, fragment of a Statue of Hercules ! — 5, Apollo — 7, a Bacchante, semi-colossal. Over the door of the Director s ' Apartment , four Consular Fasces. No. 9, the Dacian Province — 10, a colossal head of Cybele — 12, the Capital of a Doric column, taken from Caracalla’s Baths — 47, Isis, in rare basalt — 20, Dia- na — 21, Hercules — 22, Isis, in red oriental granite — 23, a colos- sal Statue of Diana — 25, Poly- phemus — 26, Mercury —27, a se- pulchral Urn — 28, Adrian in a sacerdotal habit — 30, Jove armed with thunder — 31, a Statue of Mars, the head and armour an- tique, the rest restored — 32, Her- cules killing the Hydra. Canopo. The statues contained in this apartment are said to have been found in the Canopus of Adrian’s Villa : it is supposed, however, that not more than three of them are really Egyp- tian ; the rest being productions of the time of Adrian. No. 1, Isis and Apis — 3, Canopus — 9, Isis — 10, Anubis with the Sis- trum and Caduceus — 12, Isis — 43, Isis. First room , added to the Mu- seum by Pius vii. No. 13, is a square Altar, supposed to be an Etruscan work, representing the labours of Hercules. Second room. No. 1, the Sar- cophagus of Alexander Severus 1 Some writers suppose the monument in question to have been that of Gencsius Mar- 2 Or perhaps a recepl and his mother. Some of the bassi-rilievi which adorn this im- mense monument are fine. 1 — 3, a Disk, with bassi-rilievi , repre- senting the life of Achilles! — 4, an ancient Mosaic, found near Anlium, and representing Her- cules vanquished by Love ! — 5, a Satyr with a pipe — 11, Pluto and Cerberus ! — 13, a basso-rilievo of Poppaea, second wife of Nero — 14, Nero. Staircase. No. 1, a statue of Modesty, or a Vestal — 2, the Top of an ancient Well 2 — 5, a Lion devouring a Goat. Fastened into the wall is the Plan of ancient Rome, found in the church of Saints Cosimo and Damiano. Gallery up stairs. No. 2, Bust of Faustina the elder, wife of An- toninus Pius — 5, Euterpe — 10, a basso-rilievo , representing a man making his will — 12, Faunus — 14, bust of Silenus — 15, bust of Pom- P e y. Apartment of the Vase. No. 1, a large Vase with Bacchanalian ornaments, found near the se- pulchre of Cecilia Metella ; and placed on a Pedestal, apparently Etruscan, and originally, perhaps, the parapet which encircled a well : it is adorned with a basso- rilievo , representing the twelve principal deities of the heathen world; and was found at Net- tuno ! — 2, (near the window) a bronze Vase, found in the port of Antium ; and once the pro- < perty of Mithridates Eupator, f King of Pontus, according to the inscription it bears ; which in- scription exhibits the most an- cient Greek characters extant ! — 9, Mercury — 36, a triform Diana cianus, the father of Alexander Severus, and liis wife, Julia Mammaea. acle for sacrificial ashes. CH. VII.] — 37, a basso-rilievo representing circumstances recorded by Homer — 39, a sacrificial tripod — 40, an- cient Roman weights, scales, and a candelabrum — 41, the triumph of Bacchus for the conquest of India — 47, Diana of Ephesus — 59, Isis — 68, the Foot of a tri- pod of flowered alabaster !■ — 69, a sepulchral Urn, representing the fable of Diana and Endymion— 77, Diana of Ephesus — 83, a Herma — 84, a Herma, represent- ing Bacchus — 96, a cinerary Urn supposed to have contained the ashes of a youth — 100, a Sarco- phagus, with bassi-rilievi , repre- senting the fable of Prometheus —101, a Mosaic, in pietre dure , of four pigeons, described by Pliny, and found in Adrian’s Villa ! ! 1 Continuation of the Gallery. No. 17, bust supposed to repre- sent Gecrops, first King of Athens — 18, Cato the Censor ! — 19, Group of Agrippina and Nero — 21, Marcus Aurelius— 23, bus t of a laughing Bacchus — 26, a young Hercules! — 27, Paris— 28, a Sar- cophagus representing the Rape of Proserpine — 29, 'a cinerary Urn — 30, a bust, supposed to represent Marcus Brutus — 32, Psyche, with the wings of a but- terfly — 34, bust of Marcus Yes- asian Agrippa ! — 35, colossal ust of the mother of Niobe — 36, a wounded Gladiator ; or, more probably, a Discobolus — 37, a Wine-vase — 41, one of the daugh- ters of Niobe — 42, head of Ju- piter! — 44, Diana-Lucifera — 48, a Sarcophagus, with bassi-rilievi , relative to the history of Bacchus — 49, a cinerary Urn, with a pine- apple, the emblem of mourning, at the top — 50, bust of Scipio 1 This Mosaic made part of a pavement ; and is supposed to have been brought by 149 Africanus! — 51, bust of Phocion — 52, statue of a Consul — 54, a semi-colossal head of Antinous — 55, bust of Venus — 56, a small Pallas— 57, a small Isis — 58, semi-colossal bust of Ju pi ter- Am- mon ! — 60, statue of Ceres — 62, bust of the mother of Niobe — • 63, bust of Tiberius — 64, Bac- chus with a panther at his feet — 65, Jove with the eagle at his feet — 66, bust of Jupiter Serapis — 67, head of Augustus — 68, bust of Adrian— 70, bust of Caligula — 72, statue of Marcus Aurelius — 73, bust of Trajan — 74, bust of Silenus crowned with ivy — 75, bust of Domitius Enobarbus, the father of Nero— 76, bust of Ca- racalla. Apartment of the Emperors . On the walls are the following bassi-rilievi , numbered alphabe- tically — A. Genii in cars — B. Bacchus on a tiger, with Fauns, satyrs, etc.— C. the chase of the Calydon boar— E. the nine Mu- ses ! — F. Perseus liberating An- dromeda !— G. Socrates with His- tory, and Homer with Poetry— H. Endymion and his dog — /. The fable of Hylas ; three of the figures in this basso-rilievo ex- actly resemble the three Graces of Siena. In the middle of the room is a statue of Agrippina, the mo- ther of Germanicus, seated in a curule chair ! and round the apart- ment, on two shelves of marble, are busts of the Roman emperors and their relatives, beginning with Julius Caesar ; whose bust, num- bered!, — that of Drusus, num- bered 5,< — that of Germanicus, numbered 7, — that of Caligula, numbered 9, — that of Messalina, numbered 11, — that of Galba, numbered 16,— that of Julia, the Adrian from Pergamus, and to have been the work of Sosu5. o 2 ROME. 4 50 no daughter of Titus, numbered 21, — that of Nerva, numbered 24, — that of Plotina, numbered 26, — those of Adrian, numbered 29 and 30,* — that of Jidia-Sabina, numbered 31,— that of Marcus Aurelius, numbered 35, — that of Lucilla, numbered 40, — that of Commodus, numbered 41, — that of Glodius Albinus, numbered 47, — those of Septimius Severus, numbered 48 and 49, — that of Macrinus, numbered 53, — that of Maximus, numbered 59, — that of Tribonianus Gallus, numbered 68, — and that of Salonina, num- bered 73, are among the most striking. Apartment of the Philosophers. Among the bassi-rilievi on the walls are, G. a funeral proces- sion — I. Victory in a triumphal car — L. a sacrifice to Hygeia, in rosso antico — M. Faunus follow- ed by Spartan ladies : this work bears the name of Gallimachos, and is described by Pliny. 1 In the centre of the room is one of the twelve Camillce, instituted by Piomulus for the service of the gods. On two marble shelves round the room are busts of Poets, Philosophers, and other distin- guished characters of antiquity : those of Virgil, marked 1, — So- crates, marked 4, 5, and 6, — Carneades, marked 8, — Seneca, marked 10, —Plato, marked 11, — -Diogenes, marked 21, — Archi- medes, marked 22, — Asclepiades, marked 24, — Demosthenes, mark- ed 31, — Pindar, marked 33, — Aratus, marked 38, — Democri- tus, marked 39 and 40. — Homer, marked 44, 45, 46, and 47, — Aspasia, marked 48, — Gleopatra, maiked 49, — Sappho, marked 51, — Lysias, marked 54, — Epicurus, 1 YVinckelmann seems to think this wor three Priestesses ot I HE. [ch. vir. marked 62, — Melrodorus, mark- ed 63, — Epicurus, marked 64,— Aristotle, marked 66. — Massinis- sa, marked 68 and 69,- — Julian, the apostate, marked 72,— Gicero, marked 74, — and Gabrielle Faer- no, marked 79, and done by Buo- naroti, are among the most strik- ing. Saloon. The two columns of giallo antico, which ornament the large niche of this apartment, where stands the Hercules of bronze gilt, once belonged to the tomb of Cecilia Metella ; and the two figures of Victory, which support the arms of Clement xu., once belonged to the triumphal Arch of Marcus Aurelius. Among the statues are, No. 1, Jove arm- ed with lightning, of nero antico, and found (as likewise was the Altar which serves for its Pedes- tal) in the Port of Antium ! — 2, a Centaur, of nero antico, found at Adrian’s Villa ! ! — 3, Hercules, in basalt, found on the Aventine hill ; the Pedestal is adorned with bassi-rilievi , representing the birth, education, and coronation of Jove!! — 4, another Centaur, similar to that numbered 44 2” ! ! —5, /Esculapius, in nero antico, placed on a circular altar repre- senting a sacrifice, and found, as was the Altar, at Antium — 7, Ptolemy-Apion, in the character of Apollo — 8, Venus rising from the bath — 9, a wounded Amazon — 10, an Amazon — 1 1 , a wounded Amazon — 13, a Muse — 14, Mi- nerva ! — 15, a Faun — 16, Apollo, semi-colossal — 18, a colossal bust of Trajan! — 21, Antinous — 22, Adrian — 23, Caius Marius, in consular robes ! ! — 24, Julia, con- sort of Septimius Severus — 25, Hercules in bronze gilt, semi-co- Etruscan ; and supposes it to represent acci.uo and a Faun. CH. VII.] lossal, found in the Forum Boa- rium ; and the only antique statue in Rome in which the gilding re- mains ! ! This statue is placed upon an altar consecrated to For- tune — 26, Isis, with the lotus on her head ! -—28, a Master of one of the schools for gymnastic exer- cises, found in Adrian’s Villa — 29, one of the Prceficce , hired to weep at funerals — 31, the God- dess of Clemency with a p ilera and a lance, found on the Aven- tine hill — 32, a colossal bust of Antoninus Pius! — 33, Diana, as a huntress ; from the Alban i col- lection— 34, a Cacciatore, found near the Porta Latina — 35, Har- pocrates, the god of silence, found in Adrian’s Ydla. Apartment of the Faun. — Among the bassi-rilievi which adorn the walls of this room, is the triumph of the Nereides over marine Monsters. In the centre of the apartment is the Faun, in rosso antico, found at Adrian’s Villa ! ! ! — No. 3, colossal head of Hercules placed on a rostral altar dedicated to Neptune — 6, colossal head of Bacchus, placed on a rostral altar, dedicated to Tran- quillity — 10, an incognito-bust — 13, a Sarcophagus, the bassi-ri- lievi on which represent the fable of Diana and Eudymion — 14, an incognito-bust standing on an al- tar dedicated to Isis, and found in Adrian’s Villa — 15, a child play- ing with a mask — 17, Innocence playing with a dove— 19, Alexan- der the Great — 21, a child play- ing with a Swan, and placed on au altar dedicated to the sun ! — 22, au incognito-bust — -26, a Sar- cophagus adorned with bassi-ri- 1 Winckelmann supposes the statue called The Dying Gladiator to represent a herald ; other antiquaries think it more like a shicld- I hearer : it scc:ns, however, to be generally 451 lievi representing the battle of Theseus and the Amazons. Apartment of the dying Gladi- ator. This super-excellent sta- tue, found in the gardens of Sal- lust, has been so well restored, by Buonaroti, that the arm he made is deemed nearly equal in merit with the other parts of the figure ! ! ! ! ! 1 — 2, Zeno, the founder of the Stoics ; this statue stands upon an ancient altar, and was discovered at La- vinium, in the Villa of Antoninus Pius— 3, a group of Cupid and Psyche, found on the Aventine hill, and placed on an altar dedi- cated to Apollo!— 4, the Faun of Praxiteles found at Tivoli, in the Villa d’Este ! ! ! — 6, Antinous ! ! ! —7, Flora, found in Adrian’s Villa! - 8, Venus coming from the bath!!! —9, Juno, semi-colossal !!! —10, bust of Alexander the Great! —11, the Egyptian Antinous dei- fied by Adrian, demi-colossal, and found in Adrian’s Villa!— 12, bust of Ariadne, crowned with ivy — 13, Pandora, semi-colossal, placed on an Altar dedicated to Hercules ! —14, Apollo, semi-colossal, found in the Zolfatara, near Tivoli ! ! ! — B, bust of Marcus Brutus! Ternpio di Pallade , erected by Domitian in his Forum. This magnificent ruin is hall buried in the earth ; but that part which ap- pears above-ground of two beauti- ful fluted Corinthian columns now standing, measures twenty-nine feet in height, each column being nine feet and a half in circumfer- ence. The entablature and frieze are rich in well-executed orna- ments, especially the latter, which represents the Arts, patronised by Pallas. On the entablature is a considered as a copy of that masterpiece in brouze, by Clesilaus, which lepreseuted a ■wounded man iu the agonies of death. ROME. 152 ROME. [CH. Til. large figure of the Goddess in alto- rilievo . Tempio e Foro di Nerva. The Emperor Nerva, after the death of Domitian, finished his Forum, ■which was enlarged and embel- lished by Trajan, who erected there one of the finest edifices of ancient Rome, a Temple, or Ba- silica, in honour of Nerva. Con- tiguous to the entrance into the Forum of Nerva (now called Arco de’ Pantani) are the remains of this edifice ; namely, part of* what seems to have been a cella, and part of a side portico, consisting of three magnificent columns and a pilaster of Parian marble, fluted, and of the Corinthian order, which support an architrave much orna- mented and finely worked. The height of these columns is ‘fifty- one feet, and their circumference sixteen feet and a half. 1 2 The wall now remaining of the Forum of Nerva (supposed to have been originally a part of the city-wall, erected by Tarquin), is equally ex- traordinary on account of , its im- mense height, and the enormous blocks of stone that compose it, which are cramped together with- out the assistance oflime, by pieces of hard wood. Foro e Co Iona T raj ana. The Forum of Trajan, built by Apol- lodorus of Athens, was, according to the records of antiquhy,*more splendid than any other Forum at Rome, and contained-porticos, sta- tues, a basilica, with a bronze e- questrian statue of Trajan in its yestibule; a temple dedicated to that Emperor after his death ; a triumphal arch with four fronts, the celebrated Ulpian Library, and a beautiful historic column, the last of which alone remains entire. The column is supposed to have stood in ‘the centre of the Forum, and under this supposi- tion, we may conclude that not much more than half of the latter has been excavated, and that the other part must still remain en- tombed beneath the churches m S . Maria, and S. Maria- di Loretto. The excavations lately made have brought to light a considerable number of columns of grey gra- nite, all broken, but which seem, judging from the situation of their bases, to have belonged to the Ba- silica. Several fragments of sculp- ture, inscriptions, etc., have like- wise been found, and are now placed in the Forum. Trajan’s column, the most beautiful work extant of its kind, was erected at the beginning of the second cen- tury, by the senate and people of Rome, in honour of his victories over the Daci, Sarmati, etc. It is of the,Doric order, and composed of thirty-four blocks of Greek marble, fastened together with bronze cramps : its circumference, at the bottom, being eleven feet tw o inches, and at the top ten feet, and its height from the pavement, including the statue on its summit, 133 feet. The bassi-rilievi with which it is adorned, represent the Dacian wars, and are supposed to have been designed^and in great measure executed, byApollodocus. The statue of Trajan, in bronze gilt, originally stood on the top of this column, ^but the existing sta* tue is that of S. Peter, placed there by Sixtus V. The pedestal of the column exhibits trophies, eagles, wreathes of oak, etc., most beautifully sculptured, 1 andorigi- 1 According to some opinions, this edifice Daci, the Sarmati, and their allies, copied was the Temple of Mars. from the originals brought to Rome by 2 The shields and arms are those of the Trajan. ROME. 153 CH. VII.] nally contained the ashes of Tra- jan in a golden urn. Dogana Pontijicia. This edi- fice stands on the ruins of #a large oblong building,, each side of which seems to have been ori- ginally decorated with an open por4co. Eleven magnificent flut- ed Corinthian columns of Greek marble still remain, and support a noble cornice, likewise of Greek marble : thege columns are above thirty-nine feet high, and particu- larly well proportioned ; their base is attic, and their capitals are adorned with olive-leaves : they h^ve suffered cruelly from fire. The quadrangle of the edifice con- tains fragments of a fine entabla- ture, and a portico. Some anti- quaries believe this splendid ruin to have been the Temple of Nep- tune, but more probably it was the Basilica of Antoninus Pius. Obelisk of Monte - Citorio . — This obelisk, made, it is supposed, in the time of Sesostris, about a I thousand years before Christ, was brought to Rome by Augustus, who used it as the gnomon, or stile, of his meridian line, which was traced on the pavement by means of a bronze dial, near the temple of Juno-Lucina, now the Church of S. Lorenzo in Lucina. 1 The obelisk is of red granite, covered with hieroglyphics, and its height, from the pedestal to the bronze globe on its summit, is ninety feet. Pius vi. placed it on Monte Citorio. 2 Colonna- Antonina. This stale- ly historic column, erected by the Roman senate to Marcus Aurelius Antoninus, was dedicated by hirn to his father-in-law, Antoninus Pius, whose statue he placed on its summit. It records the Mar- comannic war, in a series of bassi- rilieviy which seem to have been imitated from those on Trajan’s column, though inferior in point of workmanship. It is of the Do- ric order, and composed of twen- ty eight blocks of white marble; its diameter being fifteen feet, and its height, from the base to the top of the statue, one hundred and forty-two feet. As this column was extremely injured by light- ning, Sixtus v. restored it, at the same time placing on its sum- mit the statue of S. Paul, which, like that of Antoninus Pius, is of bronze gilt. 3 Mausoleo d Augus to. Augus- tus, during his sixth consulate* erected, in the Campus Martius, this superb Mausoleum for himself and family : it was incrusted with white marble, and, being raised to a great height, formed a stately dome. The building seems to have been divided into three stories, round which were broad belts, whereon evergreens were planted : the summit was adorned with a statue of Augustus, and two Egyp- tian Obelisks stood at the entrance. One story alohe remains : here, however, are several sepulchral chambers tolerably perfect. The Bustum, where the bodies of the Emperor and his family were burnt, is supposed to have been in the vicinity of his mausoleum, near the church of S. Carlo al Corso. So extraordinary are the changes in this world, that the 1 See Pliny’s Nat. Hist. 1. 36. c. 10. 2 Alons Cilorius ; here formerly stood an Amphitheatre, supposed to have been that of Stalilius Taurus. 3 The Base of the Colonna Antonina is modern ; and it the Street recently disco- vered, eighteen feel lielow the foundation ot the Palazio-Piombino, he, as antiquaries sup- pose, part of the V in— Fla minia, the Colonna Antonina must, w hen first erected, have stood on a considerable hill. 454 ROME. tomb of Augustus is now convert- ed into a sort of amphitheatre for bull-fights and fire-works ! Campo Marzo. The Campus Martius, consecrated, by Romu- lus, to the god of war, compre- hended an immense tract of ground ; extending, in the days of Augustus, from his Mausoleum to the Theatre of Marcellus ; and from the base of the Pincian, Qui- linal, and Capitoline hills, to the Tiber. In Nero’s reign, it is said to havereached to thePonteMolle. Mausoleo- Adriano , now Castel di S. Angelo. This magnificent edifice w as erected by the Empe- ror Adrian, nearly opposite to the Mausoleum of Augustus, and in the garden of Domitian. It con- sisted of two stories, with a dome on the top; was incrusted with Parian marble, surrounded with stately columns, and adorned with statues. Some persons imagine the bronze pine, now in the Bel- vedere-Garden of the Vatican, to have been originally placed on the summit of the dome, and to have contained the ashes of Adrian : while others conjecture that his statue was on the summit, and that his ashes were deposited be- neath , in a porphyry sarcophagus. After the fall of the Roman em- pire, this building became the ci- tadel of Rome ; and acquired the appellation of Gastello di S. An- gelo, from a statue of the Arch- angel Michael placed there, to commemorate a vision of S. Gre- gorio; who, being on the top of the edifice, thought he saw an angel announcing to him t ho ces- sation of a plague which, at that 1 One of these blocks of marble is twelve feet in length, thirteen in breadth, and eleven in height. Another block is seventeen feet in length, ten in breadth, and six in height. But prodigious to modern eyes as these blocks appear, they are pigmies compared with those [CH. VII. period, ravaged Rome. Con- siderable remains of the ancient building may still be discovered within the walls of the modern F ortress ; the large hall of which merits notice; as it is painted, in fresco, by Raphael’s scholars. Foreigners, in general, are not allowed to see the interior of the Fortress of S. Angelo above one or two days in the year; when the Soldiers of the Garrison have permission to open the gates, and show the Mausoleum, etc. Tempio del Sole nel Giardino Colonnese. In Via della Pilotta , near the church of Santi Apostoli, is a door leading up a flight of narrow steps into, the Colonna Garden, where lie immense frag- ments of what is supposed to have been the Temple of the Sun, erected by Aurelian. This edi- fice, finely situated on the Quirinal hill, was one of the largest temples of ancient Rome, if we may judge by the enormous magnitude of tne ruins of the frieze and entabla- ture , 1 which still remain : they are of white marble, beautifully sculptured. The columns which supported the entablature are sup- posed to have been seventy feet in height. Here was found a votive table of marble, on which the wor- ship of Mithras is represented : and as the worship of Mithras, brought to Rome from Persia, was certainly connected with that of the sun, such a votive offering is an indication that the Temple of the Sun stood here. This Garden likewise contains ruins of the Baths of Constantine. Obelisk of the Piazza di Santa mentioned by Josephus as having composed part of the Temple at Jerusalem, after its restoration by Herod. The last-named blocks, according to the Jewish historian, were up- wards of sixty-seven feet in length, above seven in height, and about nine in breadth. ch. vii.] ROME. 155 Maria sopr a Minerva. This little Obelisk, covered with hierogly- iphics, was found near the spot 'where it now stands; in conse- quence of excavations which were made to lay the foundations of the Convent of the Minerva. The Obelisk which now stands oppo- site to the Pantheon was found in the same place : and it is conjec- tured that the Temples of Isis and Serapis stood in this part of Rome ; and that these little Obe- lisks stood before them. A fine statue of Minerva, an Isis, a Se- rapis, an Isiaic Altar, and other Egyptian antiquities, were found in this vicinity ; as were the cele- brated statues of the Nile and Tiber ; the former of which is qow in the Vatican-Museum, the latter at Paris. The obelisk of ;he Piazza della Minerva was Maced there by Alexander vii. ; and the elephant, on whose back It rests, was designed by Bernini, and executed by Ferrata. Chiesa di S. Maria sopra Mi- xerva. This church is supposed to stand on the foundations of a Temple of Minerva, erected by Pompey the Great, in gratitude for his victories : the interior of the edifice, however, though spacious and handsome, exhibits no re- mains of the ancient temple. Be- hind the high-altar are the tombs of Leo x. and Clement vii., by Bandinelli ; the statue of the for- mer being by Rafaello da Monte- lupo, and that of the latter by Bacciobigio. Near the side door is the monument of Cardinal Ales- sandrino, designed by GriaGomo della Porta; and that of Cardinal Pimentelli, executed by Bernini : but the most celebrated piece of sculpture in this church is a statue 1 On the twenty-third of April, from line muoic in of Our Saviour holding his cross, by Buonaroti ! It is near the high -altar. The Altieri-Chapel contains an altar-piece, by Carlo Maratta and Baciccio : and the Chapel of the Annunziata is painted in fresco, by Filippino Lippi, Rafaellino del Garbo, and Fra Giovanni Angelico da Fiesole, who was buried in this church. The adjoining Convent contains the Casanatense Library, deem- ed the best at Rome, with respect to printed books, and adorned with a statue of Cardinal Casa- natta, by Le Gros. 1 Pantheon. The Piazza in which this magnificent Temple stands was completely filled with ruins of ancient edifices, till the Ponti- ficate of Eugenius iv., who, on having these ruins cleared away, discovered, before the portico of the Pantheon, the two Lions of ba- salt which now adorn the Fontana di Termine ; a Head of Agrippa, in bronze ; and some ornaments, supposed to have belonged to the pediment. Gregory xm. erected the Fountain in this Piazza ; and Clement xi. embellished it with the Egyptian Obelisk before-men- tioned. The Pantheon, which has in great measure defied the inju- ries of time, seems as if preserved to latter ages for the purpose of furnishing a just idea of ancient Roman taste and splendour. The general opinion appears to be that it was erected “by Agrippa, the son-in-law of Augustus ; and re- paired by Septimius Severus and Caracallo ; but that Agrippa did not build the portico at the same time with the rest of the edifice. The Pantheon, judging from its name, was dedicated to all the gods : though Agrippa particular- five till seven in the evening, there is , this church. 456 ROME. ly consecrated it to Jupiter the Avenger : and, according to Dion Cassius, wished to have placed the statue of Augustus there, and to have inscribed his name as author of the Temple ; which honour the Emperor modestly declined. A- grippa, therefore, placed the sta- tue of Julius Csesar in the rotunda, among the deities, and the statues of Augustus and himself in the large niches on the outside near the great door : and probably the portico might have been added for the purpose of containing these statues. What strengthens this conjecture is, that immedi- ately over the portico are traces of the original pediment. For- merly there were seven steps lead- ing up to the portico ; now, two only are above ground. This stately vestibule is sixty-nine feet long by forty-one wide, and sup- ported with sixteen magnificent columns, each being one entire piece of red oriental granite, the circumference of which is four- teen feet, and the height forty- two. The bases and capitals are of the most beautiful white mar- ble yet discovered among the trea- sures of antiquity. The portico is surmounted by an entablature and pediment finely proportion- ed ; and in the tympan of the latter are holes that served, no doubt, to fix a basso-rilievo , now, alas, taken away. The original bronze doors, embellished with bassi~rilievi, became the spoil of Genseric, King of the Vandals, who lost them in the Sicilian sea : the door-case, which is magnifi- cent, still remains; and the present doors appear to have been taken from an ancient edifice. The in- side of the temple is circular, and its diameter is a hundred and [ch. VII. forty-nine feet, exclusive of the walls, which are eighteen feet thick : the height seems to have been the same as the breadth, till the interior pavement was raised to a level with that of the portico : for originally there was a descent of seven or eight feet into the Pantheon ; a construction not un- usual in ancient temples. The walls were incrusted with pre- cious marbles, which still remain, as do the ancient cornices and frieze ; and it is supposed that the inside of the dome was origi- nally covered with silver bassi - rilievi : the outside w as bronze gilt. The beams of the ceiling of the dome and portico were cased with thick plates of bronze, which Urban vm. took away to make the Baldacchino in S. Pe- ter’s, and the cannon of the Castle of jS. Angelo ; thereby drawing upon himself the following pas- quinade : “ Quod non fecerunt Barbari Romce, fecit Farberini .” All the gods had their respective statues here, in bronze, silver, gold, or precious marble : that of Jupiter the Avenger is supposed to have been in the centre of the tribuna ; the infernal deities on the pavement, the terrestrial in the lower niches of the walls, and the celestial in the upper niches. The pavement is com- posed of porphyry and giallo antico, bordered with other rare marbles ; and the aperture in the roof for light is twenty-five feet in diameter. Pliny mentions, among the ornaments, columns with capitals of a metal called Syracusian ; but none of these are preserved ; neither do any of the Caryatides, nor the other statues executed by Diogenes the Athenian, now remain. Pliny «h. nr.] ROME. 157 ^ikewise mentions, among the sculpture by various artists : and statues, a Yenus with ear-rings, Innocent x. erected the centre made of a pearl cut asunder ; Fountain after the design of Ber- being the fellow of that which nini. It consists of a circular ba- Cleopatra dissolved in vinegar, sin seventy-three feet in diameter ; and drank to the health of Mark in the middle of which rises a Antony. Fourteen beautiful co- rock, adorned on one side with a lumns of the Corinthian order still sea-horse, and on another with a adorn the interior of this edifice : lion : on the summit of this rock, and it is said that the two which is an Obelisk of red granite, co- stand on each side of the high-al- vered with hieroglyphics^ and tar were placed there by Adrian, fifty-five feet in height; it was The small altars are adorned with found in the circus of Caracalla, columns of porphyry, giallo an- who brought it to Rome. The tico and granite, paintings and four sides of the rock are likewise statues ; among the latter of which embellished with four colossal is a group of a Vestal and a Child statues, representing four of the found in the subterranean part of principal rivers of the world; the building; this Vestal is now, namely, the Ganges, the Nile, 1 I believe, called S. Anna. Busts, the Plata, and the Danube. This monuments, and inscriptions, to fountain does honour to the taste the memory of distinguished cha- of Bernini. racters whose talents have shed Chiesadi S. Jgnese, in Piazza* lustre upon Italy, once clothed the Navona. This church stands on walls of the Pantheon ; but are the Lupanarium of the Circus now removed to the Capitol; Agonalis, whither S. Agnes was except the inscriptions in me- dragged, in order to be defiled, mory of Raphael, Annibale Ca- A staircase near the Chapel of S. racci, and two or three other per- Agnes leads into the Lupanarium , sons. where are considerable remains Bagni d’ Agrippa. Immediately of antiquity, together with a bas- behind the Pantheon were Agrip- sn-rilievo of S. Agnes mjracu- pa’s Baths, of which scarce any lously covered with her own hair ; vestige remains ; except a semi- and said to be one of the best circular building, now called works of Algardi ! Arco della Ciambella . The Church of S. Agnes is Piazza Navona. This was an- built in the form of a Greek cross ; ciently the Circus Agonalis; so and adorned with stalely columns called, perhaps, from having been of Granite, a beautiful pavement, the spot where the Agonal games, a cupola finely painted by Ciro instituted by Numa in honour of Ferri, Corbellini, and Baciccio ; a Janus, were celebrated. It is one statue of S. Agnes in the flames, of the largest Piazzas in Rome, by Ercole Ferrata; an antique and seems to have retained its statue, now called S. Sebastiano ; I original shape. Gregory xm. several fine bassi-rilievi (the r adorned it with two Fountains ; most striking of which is S. Eu- 1 one of which is ornamented with stachio among the wild beasts, by a Triton, by Bernini ; and other Ercole Ferrata) ; the Mausoleum 1 The statue of llie Nile has its head covered, to signify that its source was unknown to llie ancients. P ROME. 158 of Innocent x. ; and a high-altar incrusted with flowered alabaster, and adorned with columns of verde antique ; and a group in marble of the Holy Family, by Domenichino Guido. The Lupanarium is damp and cold. Teatro di Marcello , Piazza Montanara. This Theatre, said to have been the second built at Rome for public exhibitions, was erected by Augustus in honour of his nephew Marcellus; and the architecture is so fine as to have served as a model to all succeed- ing ages. This edifice was four stories high ; but the two upper ones are quite destroyed ; and have buried, in their ruins, the seats, orchestra, and stage. Al- most half, however, of the wall of the first and second story may be traced. The portico of the first story is Doric ; the second story Ionic. This theatre was composed of large blocks of Tra- veriino, and held about twenty- five thousand spectators; the Or- sina-Palace stands upon its ruins. Near the Theatre of Marcellus stood the Prison of the Decem- viri; in which a woman (accord- ing to Pliny and Valerius Maxi- mus) was condemned to be starv- ed to death, and saved by her daughter, who had not long been brought to bed, and who got acr cess to her, and supported her with her milk: till, at length, when this circumstance was dis- covered, the mother received pardon for the daughter’s sake ; a pension, likewise, was bestowed upon them ; and a temple erected on the spot to filial piety. Portico d'Octavia. This mag- nificent edifice, which stands in the Pescheria, or fish-market, was erected by Augustus in honour [ch. VII. of his sister Octavia, chiefly for the purpose of sheltering the peo- ple from rain. It seems to have enclosed a temple of Jupiter, and another of Juno; the latter of which suffered from fire, and was repaired by SeptimiusSeverusand Caracalla. The portico was of a square form, supported by nearly three hundred columns, and adorned with statues of the most exquisite workmanship : it served as an exhibition-hall for painters on certain days of the year. The present remains seem to have been one of the principal entrances : its form is square, with two fronts, similar to each other, and adorned with fluted Corinthian columns of while marble, supporting an en- tablature and pediment, all finely executed. The Venus de’ Medici was found here. Tempio d'Esculapio, now Chi- esa di S. Bartolomeo . This Church stands on what is called the Island of the Tiber; being precisely the space between the Pons Cesiius and the Pons Fa - bricius . The Romans have a tradition that this island was formed by the corn belonging to Tarquin the Proud, in the Cam- pus Martins, having been cut down, and, by order of the con- suls, thrown into the river. About the year of Rome 462, when the city suffered from a pestilence, the Sibylline books were consult- ed ; and an embassy sent, in con- sequence, to bring Aesculapius of Epidaurus to Rome; when the serpent worshipped by the Epi- daurians, under the name of iEs- eulapius, followed the ambassa- dors into their ship, remained with them during their voyage home, and then quitted the vessel and swam to the island of the Tiber, where a temple was built for him : and to perpetuate the memory of this event, the figure of a serpent is cut in one of the stones that served for the founda- tion of this temple. The serpent, however, is in the garden of the Convent belonging to the church ; and ladies are not allowed to see the garden without an order from the Cardinal. The columns in the church appear to be antique, and are supposed to have belonged to the Temple of jEsculapius ; the Sarcophagus, which forms the altar, is handsome. Chiesa di S. Cecilia in Traste - vere. This edifice is erected on the foundations of the house of S. Cecilia; and contains the Bath wherein she suffered martyrdom. The Court leading to the church is adorned with a fine antique marble Vase; and the Portico is embellished with antique columns, two of which are granite. The high-altar of the church is adorned with four columns of nero and foianco antico supporting a bal- dacchino of Parian marble ; under which rest the ashes of S. Cecilia, in a tomb composed of alabaster’ lapis lazuli, jasper, verde antique, igate, and bronze gilt. Here like- wise is the statue of S. Cecilia, by 3tefano Maderno, in the position n which she was found after her nartyrdom ! The pavement en- circling the altar is of alabaster ind various precious marbles ; nd the ceiling is adorned with ncient mosaics. Here, also, are small round picture of the Ca- acci school, and an ancient pon- lijcal chair. On the right of the |. reat door of the church is an an- ient Vapour Bath, quite perfect; l»hose walls exhibit earthen pipes b convey hot air. This is sup- posed to be the spot where S. becil a was killed ; it is now con- 'itAJj. verted into a Chapel, and contains two pictures in the style of Guido - the one representing the decapi- tation of the Saint, the other her coronation. Basilica di S. Maria in Tras~ tevere , supposed to stand on the foundations of the Taberna Meri - toria, which was a hospital for in- yalid-soldiers. The portico of this edifice is supported by antique gi anite columns , and adorned with, ancient mosaics: it likewise con- larns several ancient inscriptions. The church is a noble structure, divided into three naves by twen- ty-two magnificent antique co- lumns of red and grey granite: lour columns of the same descrip- tion support a fine architrave ; and some of the capitals are adorned with heads of Jupiter and Juno. I he pavement is that kind of mo- saic which was invented by the Emperor Alexander Severus, and consists of porphyry, verde an- tique, etc. In the centre of the roof of the middle aisle is an As- sumption ol the Virgin, by Do- menichino ! ! ! and the Chapel to the left, on approaching the high- altar, is embellished with frescos attributed to the same great artist. Ihe baldacchino of the high-altar is supported by four columns of porphyry, and the tribuna adorned with mosaics of the twelfth cen- tury. Here, likewise, are two still more ancient mosaics ; the one representing birds, the other a sea-port. This Basilica also con- tains an ancient pontifical Chair ; together with the Tombs of two celebrated painters, theCav. Lan- franco, and Ciro Ferri. In the Piazza, before the church, is a Fountain, made during the Pontificate of Adrian i., and the most ancient of modern Rome. Chiesa di S. Prisca. Monte 460 ROME. Aventino . On the left, in as- cending the Aventine hill from Rome, is this church ; supposed to have been originally a Temple of Diana. Twenty-four antique columns yet remain ; and an Isiaic table was found near the church ; which circumstance leads some persons to imagine it was a temple of Isis ; especially as Isis had a temple on the Aventine hill. Chiesa di S. Sabina. Further, to the right, is this noble edifice, supposed to stand on the founda- tions of the Temple of Diana, built by Servius Tullus for the common use of the cities of La- tium ; and therefore called Teni- plum commune Latium : or, else, on the site of the temple of Juno, built by Camillus. But all we know to a certainty on this sub- ject is, that the portico exhibits four antique columns, twoof which are rare granite ; that the inte- rior of the church is supported by twenty-four particularly beautiful antique fluted shafts of Parian marble, with Corinthian bases and capitals ; and that the shape of the church resembles an ancient temple. In the last chapel on the right of the high-altar is a picture, by Sassoferato, representing the Madonna, S. Domenico, S. Cale- rina, and Angels!! The small paintings round this fine work are good : they represent the life of our Saviour. Chiesa di S.Alessio. Still fur- ther to the right is this edifice, supposed, by some persons, to have been erected on the founda- tions of the Temple of Hercules. Here are an ancient Pavement and an ancient Well. The high- altar is adorned with fine columns of verde antique ; the tabernacle 1 The [ch. vtr. is handsome ; and adjoining to the church is the villa of the de- ceased King of Spain, said to stand on, or near, the site of the Temple of the Dea Bona. 1 The Garden belonging to this Villa commands a fine view. Behind the Aventine hill is Monte Tes- taccio, anciently Mans Testa - ceus ; which, though one hundred and sixty-three feet in height, and above five hundred feet in circum- ference, is composed, almost en- tirely, of potsherds; conjectured to have been heaped upon this spot, in former ages, by workmen belonging to the potteries of the neighbourhood. Sepolcro di Cajo Cestio. This Pyramid, erected in memory of Caius Cestius, Septemvir Epu- lonum , or provider for the feasts of the gods, measures a hundred and thirteen feet in height ; and each of its four sides is, at the base, sixty-nine feet in length. It w^s built in three hundred and thirty days, and adorned with paintings, now almost totally ef- faced. It stands near the Porta S Paolo, called Ostiense , by Au- relian. Terme di Caracalla. On the plain below the Aventine, and op- posite to the Celian hill, are the magnificent ruins of Caracalla’s Baths; which contained sixteen hundred Sellce, or bathing places; and w r ere ornamented with the Farnese Hercules of Glycon, the group of the Toro Farnese, anc the celebrated Farnese Flora. Tin building seems to have been nearb square ; and consisted of sub ter ranean apartments, with two sto ries above them. In order to se what remains, drive toward th Porta S. Sebastiano, till, on th right, you find a green lane (calle Earth, r H . vii.] ANTIQUITIES I Via Antonina), leading to a door, 1 through which you enter a vast i pile of ruins, once part of the | Baths. Here may he traced two [ immense Courts, which appear to t have been open, with niches for i statues, and perhaps for baths likewise. Here, also, are two staircases, and almost innumer- able apartments of various dimen- I sions. 2 The height of the walls is 1 great ; and the whole exhibits one ’ of the best specimens of ancient Roman architecture now existing. After having examined these ruins, [return down the Via Antonina; and enter a Garden on the right, which exhibits renvuns of the subterranean apartments. Sepolcro de Scipioni. This Tomb is situated in a Vineyard, on the Via-Appia, still nearer to the Porto S. Sebastiano than are the Baths of Caracalla : it is on the left side of the way, and the words, “ Sepulchra Scipionum ,” jjare inscribed over the door. This was the tomb ofLiicius Cornelius , iScipio Barbatus, great grandfa- ther of Asiaticus and Africanus ; it is a handsome piece of Doric ar- chitecture, very perfect, very ex- tensive, and extremely interest- ing, though now robbed of its most valuable treasures. The candles . provided by the Cuslode of this mbterranean repository are so few in number, that persons who wish *o see it distinctly, should carry ights of their own: it is exces- sively damp. Porta di S. Sebastiano. This s the App an Gate, sometimes ailed Capena, though that gate appears to have stood below the J Villa Maltei, between the Celian md Aven tine hills. Immed ately 1 Tlie person who keeps the key of the * loor lives in a Garden near at hand. 2 B) ascending on.! of these staircases, NEAR ROME. f<$l within the gate of S. Sebastiano is an Arch, called that of Drusus, though it probably belonged to an aqueduct. Basilica di S. Sebastiano alle Catacombe. This Church is about two miles distant from the gate : it has a portico supported by antique columns, and is sup- posed to have been erected by Con- siantine. The high-altar is adorn- ed with four antique columns of green marble ; and over the three doors of ingress are paintings, by Antonio Caracci. Under this church are Catacombs, originally formed, no doubt, by the ancient Romans, and whence they took the pozzolana of which their build- ings were made. The Christians enlarged these Catacombs, and, in times of persecution, used them as hiding-places and cemeteries; they are said to extend several miles. It is often necessary to stoop in going through these caverns, but, generally speaking, they are nei- ther damp nor difficult of access. The passages are from two to three feet wide ; the chambers (of which there are several) from four to six feet broad, and from six to eight in length, some of them being still larger; and here it is said thepri- mitive Christians performed their religious exercises. In the walls are cavities about a span and a half high, and between four and five long, many of which are open and empty; others closed w r itn a piece of marble, sometimes con- taining an inscription. Few of these cavities appear large enough to contain a full-grown person, though the skeletons of children have frequently been found in them ; and this circumstance makes which is, however, a service of danger, yon 6ee the whole extent ot the Baths. p2 562 the conjecture, that children, a- mong the ancients, were oftener buried than burnt, very plausible. Here have been discovered several small vases, called lachrymatories, though more probably incense- bottles; and here likewise are places for cinerary urns. When this mark, “ ” is found upon a monument, it is deemed a sure indication of a martyr’s sepulchre, being a composition, from the Latin and Greek alphabets, to de- note Pro Chris to. 1 The cross on a monument is also considered as a sign that a Christian lies buried there ; but it should be remem- bered that a cross was the Egyp- tian emblem of eternal life, and many crosses have been discovered upon Egyptian tombs, and like- wise in the temples of Serapis. The churches of S. Lorenzo and S. Agnes also lead to ancient Ca- tacombs, whose extent cannot be accurately known, because it is impossible to explore every part of them, as their communications with each other are so intricate, that several persons have lost themselves in these subterranean labyrinths; which are, however, supposed to be the Puticuli men- tioned by Horace, Varro, and Feslus Pompeius, where the bo- dies of slaves only, or persons whose circumstances would not allow of their being burnt on fune- ral piles, were deposited: but, in process of time, persons of a higher rank might probably be interred here, for the Romans, before Chris- tianity prevailed, often buried their dead, as is evident from monu- mental inscriptions beginning with the words Diis Manibus. The Chapel of the Catacombs of S. Sebastiano contains a bust of that [on. mi . Saint, by Bernini. It is neces- sary to carry lights, in order to see these Catacombs well. Circa di Caracalla. On the left side of the road, and at the loot of the hill on which stands the tomb of Cecilia Metella, is the Circus of Caracalla, together with ruins of various edifices belonging to it. The first of these that pre- sents itself is a large Rotunda, supposed to have been the quar- ters of the Pretorian Guard, while the Emperor attended the Cir- cus; and, enclosing this Rotunda, whose second story was a Serapeon , are remains of a double row of lofty walls, between which, it is supposed, were4he stables of the horses used for the chariot-races ; while the open inner-space, or quadrangle, wherestood the before named Serapeon, contained the cars. Near this building is an ancient sepulchre, leading to the Circus of Caracalla, which is more perfect than any other of the whole fifteen that once adorned Rome; for here, the Metre , the Spina, the situation of the Obelisk, the seals, and the porticos whither the specta- tors retired in case of rain, are all discoverable. The Emperor’s seat, or Podium , seems to have been opposite to the first Meta , and from the Podium he gave the sig- nal to begin the race. TheSpina was raised above the level of the Arena, that the cars might not break in upon the obelisk, altars, and statues which adorned it. The Meta was broader than the Spina, and along the sides of the Circus, between the seats and the arena> was a ditch filled with water, to prevent the cars from aproaching too near the spectators. There was a space of ebout twelve feet ANTIQUITIES NEAR ROME. 1 XjUtf’TOff is the Greek word for Christ. GH. VII.] between the Metce and Spina , serving as a passage to the latter, and to the cells where, it is sup- posed, the altars of Consus were concealed ; he seems to have been the God of Counsel ; and hence the Romans called a consultation, Consilium , and their chief magis- trates, Consules : they hid the al- tar under ground, to signify that counsels ought to be kept secret. In the great area, between the first Meta and the Carceres , com- bats of gladiators and wild beasts were exhibited ; and sometimes water was introduced, and A’«w- machice represented. In the walls of this Circus, and likewise in those which surround Rome, are earthen pots, whose spherical shape, ope- rating like arches, diminished the perpendicular weight of the fabric, and contributed to strengthen it. The triumphalgale, through which the victors drove, is still nearly perfect, and precisely opposite to the gate of the Via-Appia : the water, likewise, still remains in the Circus, which is supposed to have contained about twenty thousand spectators. To the north of this Circus, in a neighbouring Vine- yard, are considerable remains of the Temples of Honour and Vir- tue, built by Marcellus, after his Sicilian conquests, in the year of Rome 544, and so constructed that it was impossible to enter the former, without passing through the latter. Sepolcro di Cecilia Metella. Had not the Roman Barons, dur- ing the middle ages, converted this beautiful edifice into a for- tress, and built a parapet and port-holes round its summit, it might have lasted to eternity, so durable is the manner of its con- struction. The monument was erected by Crassus, to enclose 163 the remains of his wife, Cecilia Metella ; and notwithstanding the above-named ugly parapet, is one of the best preserved sepulchral fabrics of ancient Rome. About two miles from this mo- nument is an ancient public Us - trina, where the dead were burnt: and near the Fossce Cluilice , in this neighbourhood, about five miles from Rome , and on a spot now called Casale Rotondo , is the scene of combat between the Horalii and Curiatii. Basilica di S. Paolo , fuori delle Mura. This vast edifice was erected by Constantine over the grave of S. Paul; enlarged by Theodosius, and finished by Ho- norius. The length of the edi- fice, exclusive of the tribuna, is two hundred and forty feet, and its breadth one hundred and thir- ty-eight feet. Antique columns, a bundled and twenty in num- ber, divide it into five aisles ; and twenty-four of these columns, placed in the middle-aisle , were taken from Adrian’s Mausoleum : they are of rare marble , called pavonazzo, beautifully fluted in a peculiar manner, and of the Co- rinthian order: each shaft being one entire piece. The pillars which support the great arch of the Iribuna are forty-two feet in height, and fifteen in circumfer- ence : and behind the shrine of S. Paul is a column, with an equi- lateral Parian marble base of se- ven feet, finely worked. The pil- lars that adorn the altars are por- phyry ; and under the high-altar, which is rich in precious marbles, rest the ashes of S. Paul. The arch of the great nave is orna- mented with mosaics of the year 440 ; and on the walls, above the columns, are portraits of all the Popes, two hundred and fifty - ANTIQUITIES NEAR ROME. 464 ANTIQUITIES NEAR ROME. [ch. tit. c] three in number, beginning with While Stone, on which the head ]j a S. Peter and ending with Pius of S. Paul is supposed to have • a vn. The pavement abounds with been cut off: and here, likewise, fragments of ancient sepulchral is a picture of the Crucifixion of inscriptions; and the centre en- S. Peter, by Guido; which ap- trance-door, consisting of bronze pears to have been finely execu- embellished with bassi-rilievi , ted, but is now much spoiled, was cast at Constantinople in Excavations on the estate of 4070. The outside of this church the Duchess of Chahlais. Re- is adorned with mosaics ; and turning from S. Paolo alle tre under the portico of the adjoin- Fontana , you see, on the right, ing Cloister are antique marbles, not far distant from the Tomb of and inscriptions. 1 Cecilia Metella, two excavations, Chiesa di S. Paolo alle tre which have recently disclosed the Fontane. Near two miles be- lower part of two ancient Roman yond the Basilica of S. Paul is "Villas. That nearest to the tomb the spot where this great Apostle of Cecilia Metella is supposed to suffered ; and where considerable have belonged to the Consul Mar- numbers of Christians were exe- cus Procus,^' his daughter; and cuted, by command of the Empe- exhibits the shape and walls of ror Diocletian, after he had em- several rooms, where bassi-rilievi ployed them in erecting his Baths, and a statue have been found; On this spot are three Churches : and also some beautiful pave- ihe first, S. Maria Scala Cceli , ments. The rooms seem to have was built by Vignola, and is been painted like those at Pom- deemed a good piece of architec- peii. The plan of this Villa is lure : the inside , an octagon, con- discoverable, so far as to prove tains a mosaic, by Francesco that the apartments were small, Zucca, of the school of Vasari ; though numerous. Here I found said to be the first thing of its ancient glass, some pieces being kind executed in good taste, after very thick, others very thin, and the revival of the arts. The se- in a state of decay. The Villa cond Church, that of Saints Vin- on the hill to the left exhibits cenzo and Anastasia , contains subterranean arches, above which frescos of the twelve Apostles, a are the foundations of a square Noli me tangere , and the Bap- portico, once supported, as it tismofour Saviour; all executed seems, by forty stuccoed pillars, after the designs of Raphael, but The centre of this portico is not much injured, except the two excavated: the walls appear to last. The third Church, that of have been adorned with painl- S. Paul, was built by Giacomo ings ; and the floors paved, like della Porta, and does honour to those of the opposite Villa. The his taste. The interior of the first-mentioned Villa was disco- edifice contains two altars, and vered in consequence of a piece three Fountains, called miracu- of tessellated pavement being lous ; together with ten columns worked out of a mole-hill, of rare marble, 2 which adorn the Chiesa di S. Urbano alia fountains and altars. Here is a Cajfarella . On the eminence 1 The Kings of England were the pro- 2 Two of these columns are green por- tectors of the Basilica of h. Paul before the phyry. Reformation. ch. vr.] ANTIQUITIES above the Fountain of Egeria is a Church dedicated to S. Ur- bano ; and originally an ancient Temple; supposedly some wri- ters, to have been consecrated to Bacchus, because it contains an altar dedicated to him. Accord- ing to other opinions, however, this was originally the Temple of the Muses. Four fluted Corin- thian columns of white marble, which once supported the porti- co, now adorn the outside of the church : the inside is ornamented with a fine frieze of stucco, and medallions of the same on the roof. Fontana della Dea, Egeria. This Grotto, according to Flami- nius Yacca, was consecrated, by Numa Pompilius, to the Wood- Nymphs; and the walher which supplies its Fountain is the Ovi- dian Almo. At the upper end of the Grotto are remains of a re- cumbent statue, called Egeria ; and round the walls are niches, apparently made for the reception of other statues. It seems pro- bable that there were several of these Nymphaea in the Egerian valley. 1 Tempio di Redicolo , or more properly Redeundo. This Temple, erected when Hannibal raised the siege of Rome, and returned to- ward Naples, was, therefore, call- ed the Temple of the Return , as the word expresses. It is a beauti- ful brick edifice, adorned with pi- lasters ; and once had a portico, now quite destroyed. 1 The lower classes of the Roman people go annually, on the first Sunday in May, to the Valley of Egeria ; where they carouse, and crown themselves with flowers; thence returning to Rome, like Bacchanals, dancing and singing to various instruments of music. This festival commences with the dawn, and ends about mid-day. Near half a mile beyond the Porta S. Se- bastiano, on the left, is a small rivulet, which, NEAR ROME. 165 Porta-Pia. This Gate, built by Pius iv., was anciently called Porta -Nomentana ; because it led to Nomentum. Chiesa di S. Agnese fuori di Porta-Pia. This Edifice, which is about one mile from Rome, was erected by Constantine over the grave of S. Agnes, at the desire of his daughter Constantia. Acor- ridor, containing forty-eight steps of fine marble, leads down into the church ; and on the walls of this corridor are ancient inscrip- tions. The nave is supported by sixteen antique columns; two of which are beautifully fluted; and the only specimen of the kind now to be met with at Rome. Four other columns, near the high-al- tar, are of rare marble ; and those which support the baldacchino are of the finest porphyry. The high altar is composed of precious marbles, and adorned with two antique Candelabra of bronze gilt; under it lie the ashes of S. Agnes. The Chapel of the Ma- donna contains a beautiful an- tique Candelabrum, and a head of our Saviour, by Buonaroti. Chiesa di S. Co stanza. Near the church of S. Agnes is that of S. Costanza ; dedicated, by Constantine, to Christian worship, that it might serve as a burial- place for his daughter. This ele- gant rotunda, supposed to have been originally a temple conse- crated to Bacchus, still retains its ancient form. The cupola is sup- ported by twenty-four granite co- being impeded in its course, has formed a marsh : beyond this rivulet is a gradual as- cent to the Chapel of Domine, quo tmdis ; where the road divides into two branches; that on l he left leading to the Tempio di Redeundo : and from the commencement ol the marsh to this temple, and perhaps be- yond it, appears to have been the site ut Hannibal's Camp. 466 ANTIQUITIES lumns, placed in a double circle ; and in the middle of the church is an elevated square, on which the agan altar seems formerly to ave stood, and where the remains of S. Gostanza afterward rested. That part of the roof nearest to the circular wall is adorned with beautiful ancient mosaics, repre- senting a vintage, birds, and ara- besques; and apparently executed when the arts were in their high- est perfection. The porphyry sarcophagus, ornamented with boys and grapes, which is now in the Vatican Museum, was taken from this temple. Adjoining to the church of S. Costanza are considerable remains of a Hippodrome , built by Con- stantine, where horses were train- ed and exercised. 1 A little further on, is the Villa- Faonte , where Nero was supposed to kill himself; and, about one mile from this villa, is the Ponte Lamentano , anciently Pons No - mentanus , near which are remains of two Sepulchres; that on the left seems to have been the tomb of Menenius Agrippa , and now serves as a shelter for oxen ; the other is nearly destroyed. Imme- diately behind these tombs rises, in an amphitheatrical form, the Mons Sacer ; whither the Ple- beians retired, in the year of Rome 260, by the advice of Sici— nius; till persuaded to return, by the eloquence of the above-named Menenius Agrippa : and whither they again retired, in the year of Rome 305, in consequence of the tyranny of Appius Claudius. Porta di S. Lorenzo . This edi- 1 Beyond the Church of S. Costanza, on the right, in the Garden of the Villa Rnffini, is a Columbarium, recently discovered, and containing a large number of cinerary urns, human bones, and inscriptions. It appears to have been a public burial-place, NEAR ROME. [ch. vn. 1 fice, originally one of the arches 1 of the Martian, 1 Tepulan, and 1 Julian, aqueduct, was made into 1 a City Gate by Aurelian; who called it Porta-Collatina , because it leads to Collatia, where Lucretia killed herself. Basilica di S. Lorenzo. About one mile from the gate of S. Lo- renzo is this church; which was erected by Constantine on the foundations of a temple conse- crated to Neptune, of which there are considerable and beautiful re- mains; namely, the six pillars of the portico, four of which are flu- ted ; two pillars of green porphyry at the extremity of the tribuna behind the high-altar; four of red porphyry, which support the bal- dacchino ; a fine antique cornice round the tribuna ; ten fluted co- lumns of pavonazzo, partly buried in the earth, two of them having military capitals, the other eight Corinthian capitals beautifully executed : twenty-two columns of oriental granite, which support the nave ; together with some very ancient pavement, and some of the time of Constantine. To the right, on enterinng the church, is a Sarcophagus, adorned with bas~ si-rilievi representing an ancient marriage ceremony ! and, behind the high-altar is another Sarco- phagus with Bacchanalian em- blems. The ashes of S. Lorenzo, and other Christian Martyrs, rest here. Porta Maggiore. This gate, for- merly called Prcenestina , is one of the arches of the Castellum of the Claudian aqueduct, which convey- ed three streams of water to Rome; 2 The Marlian Aqueduct, an Etruscan work, merits nolice, on account of its great antiquity; as the Aqua Martin is supposed to have been conveyed lo Rome from the Lake Fucinus (above thirty miles distant), by Ancus Martius, ROME. €11. VII.] two coming forty-five miles, and the third above sixty. It is prac- ticable, by the aid of a ladder, to ascend into this Aqueduct at the Gate of S. Lorenzo. The ancient Porta-Prcenes tina , seems to have been so called because it led to Prseneste ; and the modern name might, probably, have been given because the gate stands in the road to S. Maria Maggi ore. About two miles distant from the Porta-Maggiore, and parallel with the ancient Via-Prseneste, is a spot called Tor de' Schiavi ; where, among other ruins of an ancient Roman Village, are the remains of three Temples, one of which is well preserved, and the subterranean part particularly merits notice. Porta . S. Giovanni. This Gate, anciently called Celimontana, from being placed on the Mons Ceelius, was restored by Gregory xiii., according to the designs of Giacomo della Porta. The road beyond the Porta S. Giovanni exhibits magnificent re- mains of the Claudian, Tepuian, and Marcian aqueducts; together with several ancient tombs : and previous to passing the Acqua Santa, formerly called Salutare , you see a small, square, brick edifice, adorned with Doric co- lumns, and supposed to have been the Temple of For tuna Muliebris erected by the Roman Senate, in honour of the ladies, on the spot where Veturia and Volum- nia overcame the determination of Coriolanus, This Temple was restored by Faustina the younger. 1 Further on to the right, and about five miles from Rome, is a large 1 Between Home and Torre di Mezza-via, on the let l, are three of these square brick edifices ; all of which appear to have been ' ancient Temples : aud that nearest to Torre 167 farm, belonging to the Torlonia family, and called Roma Vec- chia ; but, probably, nothing more than an ancient Roman vil- lage (as the suburbs of the city could scarcely have extended so far); where, among other ruins, are the remains of a Theatre, and Reservoirs of Baths, one of them being full of water : they precisely resemble the Sette Salle of the Baths of Titus. Beyond these reservoirs, and still further to the right, is a peculiarly shaped Tomb, which belonged to the fa- mily of Cecilia Meteila. GATES OF HOME, NOT ALREADY MENTIONED. Porta- Angelica, built by Pius iv. Near this gate passed the Via Triump kalis , which came down from the Clivus Cinnce , a part of the Janiculum, and now called Monte Mario. Porta-Latina, supposed to have been the Porla-Firentina. Porta- Pinciana, said to have taken its name from the palace of the Pincian family which stood near it, and from whom the whole hill was called Mons Pincius. Porta- P or tense, so denomi- nated from the magnificent har- bour of Porto, constructed by Claudius. The gardens, which Julius Caesar bequeathed to the people, are supposed to have been near this gale. Porta di S. Pancrazio , ancient- ly called Aurelia. By this Gate Trajan’s Aqueduct enters Rome : its course is thirty-five miles ; and in consequence of having been re- newed and augmented by Paul r. , it is now called Acqua-Paolo. di Mezza-via seems lo answer ihe description given of the Temple of Fortuna Muliebris, belter than docs any other edifice of this kind on the road to Albano. 16.8 ROME. [ch. vir. BRIDGES OF ROME. Pons jElius , now Ponte S. Aji- gelo. This fine bridge was con- structed by the Emperor Adrian, and repaired by Clement ix. ; who, under the direction of Ber- nini, adorned it with balustrades and statues, which still remain. Pons Triumphalis , so called, because the Roman generals pass- ed over this bridge when they ob- tained the honour of a triumph. It is now destroyed ; but its re- mains may be discovered between the Castle of S. Angelo and the Church of S. Giovanni de’ Fio- rentini when the Tiber is low. Ponte Sis to, formerly called Pons Janiculensis , on account of its proximity to the Janiculum bill. According to some opinions this bridge was built by Trajan ; and, according to others, by An- toninus Pius. It was repaired by Sextus iv., and, in consequence, called by his name. Pons Fabricius , now Ponte Dei Quattro Capi. This bridge was constructed, in the year of Rome 738, by Fabricius, Curator Via - rum (inspector of roads), and called Quattro Capi from two Hermae of Janus Quadrifrons, with which it was ornamented. Pons Cestius, now Ponte di S. Bartolomeo. This bridge was constructed by Cestius, in the time of the Republic, and repair- ed about the year 375 of the Christian sera. Pons Palatinus, or Senatori- us, broken down, and now called Ponte Rotto. This was the first edifice of its kind which the an- cient Romans built of stone. The Censor Fulvius is supposed to have begun, and Scipio Africanus and L. Mummius to have finished it. Julius iii. and Gregory xiii. re- paired this bridge ; but the ex- traordinary inundations of 1598 totally destroyed it. Pons Sublicius. This bridge, the first thrown over the Tiber, was the work of Ancus Martius ; and acquired the name of Subli- cius from the wooden piles which supported it. On this bridge Ho- ratius Codes stopped the army of Porsenna, till the Romans had broken down that part which was behind their gallant leader, who then threw himself into the river, and swam to Rome. After that event the planks were laid across, without being fixed with nails, that they might be removed, in case of sudden danger. This bridge was repaired, under Au- gustus, by M. iEmilius Lepidus; and afterward by Antoninus Pius: but an inundation, in the year 780, broke it down; and, under Nicolas v., it was wholly destroy- ed. From this bridge the bodies of Commodus and Heliogabolus were thrown into the Tiber ; and when that river is low, the re- mains of the foundations of the bridge may be seen from Ripa^ grande. CHAPTER VIII, ROME. Basilica di S. Fietro— Obelisk— Fountains— Colonnades— Covered Galleries— Exterior decora- tions of the Church — Interior dimensions, etc. — Subterranean Church — Ascent to the Cupola and the top of S. Peter’s — Old Sacristy— New Sacristy— Valicano — Museo-Chiaramonti — Museo-Pio-Clementino — Libreria-Vaticano — Chiesa dei P. P. Cappuccini —Palazzi Barberini and Albani — Chiesa di S. Maria della Vittoria — Fontana di Termine— Chiesa di S. Andrea — Palazzo-Pontificio— Palazzo-Rospigliosi— Garden of ditto — Villa Aldobrandini— Fontana di Trevi— Chiese di S. Maria del Popolo — S. Carlo al Corso — S. Lorenzo in Lucina— S. Ignazio — de’ S. S. Apostoli — di S. Maria di Loretto — Gesu — S. Andrea della Valle — della Trinita de’ Pelegrini— di S. Carlo a Catenari— S. Giovanni de’ Fiorentini — S. Maria in Vallicella— S. Maria della Pace — S. Agoslino — Palazzi Borghese — Sciarra — Doria — Bracciano— Colonna — Giustiniani— Massimi— Braschi— Farnese— Spada — Mattei — Costaguti— Falconieri— Farnesina — Corsini— Accademia di S. Luca — Villa Olgiati — Borghese— Ludovisia — Albani — Mattei — Church of S. Onofrio— Fontana-Paolina— Villa-Doria-Pamfili— Madama— Mellini— Hospitals — Mosaic Manufacture— Artists — Bankers — Theatres — Carnival— Festival on the Monte Tes- taccio— Amusements during Lent— Ceremonies of the Holy Week — Illumination of S. Peter’s — Fireworks — Days on which the Pope officiates in public — Funeral of the exiled Queen of Spain— Entertainments given to the Emperor of Austria — Kindness of the present Pope to the British Nation— Promenades — Hotels — List of Objects best worth notice, as they lie contiguous to each other. Basilica di S. Pietro. S. Pe- ter’s is placed on the summit of a gentle acclivity, in an immense Piazza of an oval form, once the Circus of Nero. Its centre is adorned with an Obelisk of red Egyptian Granite ; the only one which has been preserved entire ; it was transported from Heliopolis to Rome by order of Caligula ; and afterward placed, by Nero, in his Circus : 1 it measures one hundred and twenty -four feet from the ground to the top of the cross ; and was erected by Sixtus v., under the direction of Fon- tana ; who, in order to raise it out of the earth in which it lay buried, contrived forty-one ma- chines with strong ropes andiron I rollers ; and though all the powers ! of these machines were applied at once, by means of eight hundred men and one hundred and sixty horses, the work was not accom- plished under eight days : and to transport the Obelisk to the place where it now stands, though only three hundred paces from the spot where it lay, cost four months’ labour. But the greatest proof of Fontana’s skill in mechanics was displayed when he elevated this stupendous mass, and fixed it in its present situation, by the aid of machines consisting of fifty-two powers, all of which were applied at the same moment, in obedience to pre-concerted signals. Being- raised to a proper height, it was placed, amidst the acclamations of the people and the discharge of camion from the Castle of S. An- gelo, on the backs of four lion*, 1 The dimensions of the vessel which conveyed this Obelisk to Rome are given by Pliny, lib. xvi. cap, de. Q 470 ROME, [ch. viii. without any cement; its own pon- derosity being sufficient to ensure it from falling. Report says, how- ever, that Fontana nearly miscar- ried in this last operation; the ropes having stretched so much more than he expected, that the Obelisk could not have been raised high enough to rest on its pe- destal, if an English sailor, at a time when ever} spectator was restricted from speaking, lest the signals should not be heard by the workmen, had not, in defiance to this order, called out — “Wet the ropes;” which being accordingly done, the Obelisk was raised immediately toils destined height. One of the beautiful Fountains that adorn this Piazza was erected by Innocent viii. ; the other by Clement x. ; and the Colon- nades (deemed a master-piece of architecture) were built by Ber- nini, during the Pontificate of Alexander vn. Their form is semi-circular; and they consist of two hundred and eighty-four large Doric columns of Travertino, in- termixed with eighty-eight pilas- ters, and forming, on each side of the Piazza, a triple portico, that in the centre being sufficiently spacious for two carriages to pass each other. The height of these colonnades is sixty-one feet, the breadth fifty-six feet, and on the entablature is a balustrade adorned with one hundred and ninety-two statues, each being eleven feet and a half in height. The Fountains Were made after the designs of Carlo Maderno; they throw a considerable body oi water nine feet high; and the circular basins which receive this water are entire pieces of oriental granite, fifty feet in circumference. Beyond the co- lonnades are two magnificent co- vered Galleries, or Cloisters, each being three hundred and sixty feet long, and leading to the Vestibule of the Basilica, which stands on the summit of a noble flight of steps, adorned with statues of S. Peter and S. Paul, by Mino di Fiesole. The Vestibule (which is four hundred and thirty-nine feet long, by thirty-seven wide and sixty -two feet high,) contains equestrian statues of Constantine and Charlemagne ; 1 together with a celebrated Mosaic, by Gi- otto, called La Navicella di S. Pietro. The front of the Basi- lica, which was built according to the designs of Carlo Maderno, is adorned with immense Corinthian columns and pilasters of Traver- tino ; and terminated by a balus- trade surmounted by thirteen co- lossal statues, seventeen feet in height, and representing our Sa- viour and the Apostles. The basso-rilievo, under the balcony in the centre of the building, is . by Buonvicino, and represents our Saviour giving the keys to S. Peter. The centre door of the church is bronze, adorned with bassi-rilievi ; and was made dur- ing the Pontificate of Eugenius iv. ; and over this door is a basso - rilievo, by Bernini, representing our Saviour intrusting the care of his flock to S. Peter. The cir- cumstance of that Apostle having been buried in the Circus of Nero induced Constantine to erect, over his remains, a spacious church ; which, having stood eleven cen- turies, and, at length, failing into decay, Nicholas v. began to re- 1 build, about the year 1450, after ; 1 The sta'ue of Charlemagne was done by Agostino Ccrnacchiri, and that of Constantine l>y Bernini. 8 c CK. Till.] R01 the plans of Rosellini and Alberti : bis successors, however, discon- tinued the work, till the Pontificate of Paul ii., under whom it went on. Julius ii., who was elected Pope about thirty years after the death of Paul, chose the famous Bramante as his architect ; and this artist formed the design of erecting a cupola in the centre of the edifice. On the demise of Julius and Bramante, Leo x. in- trusted the work to Raphael, and other artists ; after whose death Paul i i. chose Sangallo as his architect ; and, upon the decease of this artist, the last-mentioned Pope committed the work to Bu- onaroti, who made a new design for the cupola : he likewise in- tended to have erected a portico, resembling that of the Pantheon ; but death frustrated his purpose. Succeeding artists, however, were directed to go on with his cupola ; which was completed during the Pontificate of Sixtus v. Carlo Maderno finished the other part of the church, in the Pontificate of Paul v. ; and Pius vi. erected the new Sacristy. Buonaroti intended to have built S. Peter’s in the form of a Greek cross ; but Carlo Maderno followed the plan of Bramante, and made a Latin one. In the year 1694. this edifice was supposed to have cost 47,000,000 Roman crowns; and much more has been since expended for the Mosaics, the new sacristy, etc. The interior length of S. Pe- ter’s from the ent rance-door to the end of the tribuna, is six hundred and thirteen English feet ; the breadth of the nave two hundred and seven, the breadth of the cross seventy-eight, the diameter of the cupola one hundred and thirty- 1 These dimensions are taken from a tal gallery of i rIE. 171 nine, the height, from the pave- ment to the first gallery, one hun- dred and seventy-four, to the se- cond gallery, two hundred and forty, to the representation of the Deity in the lantern, three hun- dred and ninety-three, and to the summit of the exterior cross, four hundred and fifty-eight feet. 1 So admirably proportioned is this church, that, notwithstanding its immense size, no person, at first sight, perceives the dimensions to be remarkably large : and the statues of children, which support the vases for holy water, do not appear more than three feet in height, though they are really gigantic. The interior of this master-piece of human genius is incrusted with rare and beautiful marbles, adorned with the finest pictures in mosaic existing, and supported by an immense number of magnificent columns, the great- er part of which are antique ; and seven, if report speak true, were taken from Solomon’s Temple. The pavement is marble, and very handsome. The Sacra Confessione was designed by Carlo Maderno, and is superbly decorated with costly lamps and precious marbles. The Baldacchino was erected by Urban viii., after the designs of Bernini ; and is made of bronze gilt, and nearly ninety feet high. The de- signs for the mosaics in the Cu- pola under which the Baldacchino stands, were drawn by Giuseppe d’Arpino ; and the Evangelists par- ticulary merit notice ; as does the statue of S. Andrew near the high altar, by Du Quesnoy, and that of S. Domenico, by Le Gros. The bronze statue of S. Peter is said to have been cast during the e in manuscript, hung up in the lower ie Cupola. 472 ROME. Pontificate of Gregory the Great, from the fragments of a demolished statue of Jupiter Capitolinus. At the upper end of the middle nave is the Tribuna, decorated according to the designs of Buonaroti; and containing the Chair of S. Peter ; above which the Holy Ghost is re- presented in painted glass, in the form of a dove. On each side of the Tribuna is a magnificent Mo- nument ; that on the right, by Ber- nini, being in memory of Urban viii. (whose statue is finely exe- cuted in bronze) ; and that on the left designed by Buonaroti, and executed by Guglielmo della Por- ta, in memory of Paul in. ! ! it re- presents Prudence as an old wo- man, and Justice as a girl, so beau- tiful that a Spaniard, Pygmalion- like, is said to have fallen in love with this statue ; in consequence of which it was clothed with a bronze garment. Near the tribuna is the tomb of Alexander viii., adorned with a beautiful basso-rilievo , by Angelo Rossi ; and over the altar of S. Leo the Great, between co- lumns of red oriental granite, is an alto-rilievo of that Pope threaten- ing Attila, King of the Huns, with the vengeance of S. Peter and S. Paul, by Algardi! ! Near this altar are two fine Mosaics ; 1 the one representing the crucifixion of S. Paul, being a copy from a ce- lebrated picture, by Guido, the other representing the fall of Si- mon Magus, was copied from a celebrated picture by Francesco Yanni. Further on is a Mosaic of Raphael’s Transfiguration ; and 1 These Mosaics, called Roman, consist of small pieces of glass (some of them being scarcely larger than pins' heads) tinctured with all the different degrees of colour ne- cessary to form a picture : and when the Mosaics are finished, they are polished in the same manner as mirrors. The ground on which these vitreous particles are placed consists of calcined marble, fine sand, gum- [ch. vnr. near it the Tomb of Leo xi. , by Algardi. On this side of the church is the Capella del Coro, where the Cardinals. Canons, etc. , assemble daily, to attend divine worship; and where there fre- quently is particularly good music. Not far hence, in an unornamented tomb, rest the remains of Pius vi. ; illustrious for the patience and resignation he displayed in adver- sity ; 2 and over the door which leads to the Cupola is a monument to the memory of Maria Clemen- tina Sobieski, with her picture copied in mosaic by the Cav. Cristofari, from a painting by Sterne. The last Chapel on this side contains the baptismal Font, originally the tomb of the Empe- ror Olho ii.; it consists of por- phyry, with bronze ornaments, executed by Fontana. Over the altar in this Chapel is a fine Mo- saic, copied from a celebrated picture by Carlo Maratta, repre- senting the baptism of our Saviour. On the opposite side of the church is a Chapel containing a Pieta by Buonaroti, which appears to dis- advantage from not being equally colossal with almost every other surrounding object; the Frescos here are by Lanfranco : on this side, likewise, is a Chapel con- taining a Column said to be that against which our Saviour leaned when he disputed with the Doc- tors ; and a Sarcophagus which once enclosed the ashes of Probus Anicius, Prefect of Rome. The Braschi-Chapel contains a Cruci- fix, by Ghirlandajo. F urther on, tragacanlh, whites of eggs, and oil; which composition continues, for some time, so soft that there is no difficulty either in arranging the pieces, or altering any which may have been improperly placed : but, by degrees, it grows as hard as marble; so that no impres- sion can he made on the work. 2 A monument to the memory of this un- fortunate Pontiff is now erected. ROME. 173 CB. VIII. j toward the high-altar, is the tomb of Christina of Sweden, by Fon- tana; and over the altar of the Chapel of S. Sebastiano is a line Mosaic of the martyrdom of that Saint, copied from a celebrated picture, by Domenichino. Beyond this Chapel is the tomb of the Countess Matilda ( who died in 1115), by Bernini; and opposite to the Cappella del Coro is the Cappella del Sacramento, which contains a rich Tabernacle, made after the designs of Bernini , and an Altar-Piece painted in fresco by Pietro di Cortona ; here, like- wise, is the tomb of Sixtus iv., in bronze, adorned with bassi-rilievi by Antonio Pollaiuolo. Further on is the tomb of Gregory xin., adorned with statues of Religion and Energy, the latter of which is much admired ; and near this monument is a beautiful copy, in mosaic, of Domenichino’s chef- d'oeuvre , the communion of S. Girolamo ; for which picture he received only three crowns. Fur- ther on, is a copy, in mosaic, of the martyrdom of S. Erasmus, by Niccolo Poussin. Nearer still to the tribuna is a copy, in mo- saic, of S. Peter sinking, by Lan- franco : and opposite to this Mo- saic is the monument of Clement xin., by Canova, who has adorned it with recumbent statues of two lions, both excellently executed, and especially that which sleeps. Further on is a copy, in mosaic, of Guido’s chef d oeuvre, the Arch- Angel Michael, and likewise a copy, in mosaic, of Guercino’s celebrated picture, representing the story of S. Petronilla. This is deemed the finest Mosaic in S. Peter's ; and was executed by the Cav. Cristofari. Beyond the al- tar of S. Petronilla is the monu- ment of Clement x., whose statue was done by Ercole Ferrata : and opposite to this tomb is a copy, in mosaic, ofS. Peter raising Ta- bitha, byPlacido Costanzi. The Mosaics which adorn the small cupolas, ten in number, are exe- cuted after the designs of cele- brated painters. Under S. Peter’s is a subter- ranean Church, built by Constan- tine, into which ladies are not usually allowed to descend with- out permission Rom the Pope ; this permission, however, may easily be obtained. At the entrance of the circu- lar corridor of the subterranean Church is the Cappella della Con- fessione, built in the form of a Latin cross ; and immediately un- der the high-altar of the new church. Clement vm. adorned this chapel with precious marbles, and twenty-four bronze bassi- rilievi , representing memorable events in the lives of S. Peter and S. Paul, whose portraits, painted on silver, adorn the altar which covers S. Peter’s ashes. Oppo- site to this Chapel is the Sarco- phagus of Junius Bassus, Pre- fect of Rome ; who died in the year 359. Here, likewise, are se- veral other tombs; namely, that of Charlotte, Queen of Jerusa- lem and Cyprus ; that of the Stuarts ; and those of Adrian iv. , Boniface vm., Nicolas v., Ur ban vi., and Pius ii. Here, also, are a considerable number of Sta- tues ; and among them one of S. Peter; together with bassi- rilievi , ancient Mosaics, and in- teresting Inscriptions. The height of the subterranean church is be- tween eleven and twelve English feet ; and the pavement the same as in the days of Constantine. The door under the monument of Maria - Clementina Sobicski q 2 474 ROME. [CH. Till. leads to a staircase, consisting of one hundred and forty-two steps, by which mules might mount nearly to the top of S. Peters — so easy is the ascent— and on one of the landing-places the Custode of the Cupola may usually be found. It is impossible to form a just idea of the size of this ■wonderful church, without seeing the upper part; and equally im- possible to appreciate the archi- tectural merit of the great cupola without examining its construc- tion. This stupendous fabric is double; and by means of stair- cases, between the exterior and interior walls, it is not difficult to ascend into the lantern ; the ball on the top of which mea- sures twenty-four feet in circum- ference. The old Sacristy of S. Peter’s (a rotunda), is supposed to have been a Temple of Apollo, which stood at the side of Nero’s Cir- cus; the new Sacristy was built after the designs of Carlo Mar- chioni; and communicates with the Basilica by means of two cor- ridors : it is divided into nearly equal parts; one serving for a Sacristy, the other being appro- priated to the Canons. In the "Vestibule is a statue of S. An- drew, together with columns and pilasters of red oriental granite. This apartment leads to three gal- leries, adorned with fine columns of African marble pilasters and busts. Opposite to the door of the great Sacristy is a staircase, whose landing-place is adorned with a statue of Pius vi. The great Sacristy is an octagon, fifty feet in diameter, adorned with antique columns and pilasters, which sup- port a cupola ; and its chapel con- tains four columns of bardiglio di Carrara. The Sacristy of the Canons is furnished with presses of Brazil-wood; and contains a picture, by Francesco Penni, of S. Anne, etc.; ditto by Giulio Romano, of the Madonna, our Saviour, and S. John; and two paintings by Cavallucci. Another apartment contains pictures of the ancient Florentine school ; two paintings, by Ghezzi ; a dead Christ, attributed to Buonaroti; a picture, by Muziani ; and two paintings by Cavalucci. Vaticano. Some writers sup- pose this Palace to have been erected by Nero, and afterward bestowed, by Constantine, upon the Roman Pontiffs; while others are of opinion that is was built by Constantine on the site of the Gar- dens of Nero: it seems to have re- ceived augmentations from almost every succeeding Sovereign ; in- somuch that its present circum- ference is computed to be near seventy thousand feet. The Scala Regia , or great Staircase, at whose foot stands the statue of Constantine, was constructed by Bernini; and leads to the Sala Regia , built by Sangallo, and containing Frescos, with Latin in- scriptions, explanatory of the sub- jects. The first painting over the staircase-door represents Char- lemagne signing the donation of the Church, and is by Taddeo Zuccari ; another represents the entry of Gregory xr., into Rome, accompanied by S. Catherine of Siena, and is by Yasari; another, over the door leading to the Cap- pella-Paolina, is divided into three parts : that to the right repre- senting Gregory vn. withdrawing the censures cast on Henry iv., in the fortress of Canossa ; that on the left representing the city of Tunis reconquered under Charles y. ; the third represents Victory ch. viii.] ROME. 175 and Glory. These paintings are by Taddeo and Federico Zuc- cari. The Cappella-Sistina, adjoin- ing to the Sala Regia, was built by Sixtus iv., according to the designs of Baccio Pintelli of Flo- rence, and its ceiling painted by Buonaroti in twenty months, so entirely without assistance, that even the colours he used were prepared by himself. The Pro- phets and Sibyls, the figure of the Deity, and those of Adam and Eve, are particularly ad- mired ! ! ! The Last Judgment, likewise by Buonaroti, occupies the whole wall behind the altar; he was three years in doing it : and parts of this immense fresco are wonderfully fine. 1 The other ''walls are adorned with Frescos, representing scripture - histories , by Pietro Perugino, and his Flo- rentine contemporaries. The beads, by Perugino, are fine. Opposite to the Cappella-Sistina is the Cappella-Paolina , erected by Paul ill. after the designs of Sangafio. The two columns of porphyry, on the sides of the al- tar, were found in the Temple of Romulus; and toward the end of each are two infants in hasso-ri- lievo. The statues in the angles are by Prospero Bresciano. The paintings, which represent the Conversion of S. Paul, and the Crucifixion of S. Peter, are by Buonaroti ; and the fall of Simon Magus, friezes, and ornaments of the ceiling, are by Federico Zuc- cari. The Sacristy, near the Cap- peila-Sistina, contains magnificent plate and jewels. The Ceiling of the Sala Ducale is decorated with arabesques, by Lorenzino da Bologna, and Ra- phaellino da Reggio. The Loggia , or open Gallery, above the Sala Ducale , leads to the Stanze di Rafaello; and is embellished with Arabesques, in- terspersed with Scripture- Histo- ries, by that great artist and his scholars. Some of the finest of these frescos are, God dividing the light from the darkness, by Raphael; Joseph explaining his dreams, by Giulio Romana ; Jo- seph sold to the Ishmaelites; Jo- seph explaining the dreams of Pharaoh ; and the baptism of the Saviour ; by Raphael. The greater part of the small bassi-rilievi in this gallery are antique, and sup- posed to have been taken from the Colisseum, the Baths of Cara- calla, and the Yilla of Adrian. The Stanze di Rafaello con- tain some of the very finest frescos existing ; but the injuries these apartments have received from time, and still more from the smoke made in them by German soldiers, when Rome was taken by assault, A.D. 1528, has ren- dered the paintings with which they are adorned less striking, at first sight, than many other fres- cos : indeed Cignani, a celebrated artist, admired them so little, on a cursory review, that Carlo Ma- ratta, provoked by his want of penetration, requested him to copy one of the heads in the fire of the Borgo. Cignani began ; rub- 1 1 The following lines contain a fair comment on this picture “Good Michael Angelo, I do not jest, TIij' pencil a great Judgment hath exprest; Put in that judgment thou, alas, bast shown A very little judgment of thy own ! ” 176 bed out ; began again ; and again rubbed out; till, at length, after several fruitless attempts, he threw away his pencil, exclaiming, 44 Ra- phael is inimitable!” The Stajize di Rafaello are four in number; namely, the Sala di Costaniino ; the Sala d’ Elio - doro ; the Sala della Scuola de Atene ; and the Sala di Vlncen- dio. The apartment leading to them is adorned with frescos by Raphael, representing the Apo- stles; and also contains the Cha- pel of Nicholas v., painted by Angelo di Fiesole, the pupil of Masaccio. The Hall of Constantine was designed by Raphael, and colour- ed, after his death, by his scho- lars. The first picture, on The right, represents Constantine ad- dressing his troops before the battle with Maxentius, and was coloured by Giulio Romano. Ra- phael has represented the moment when the cross appears in the air supported by Angels, who are supposed to be saying to Constan- tine, 44 Conquer by this.” The dwarf of Julius ii. , putting on a helmet, forms an absurd episode in the picture. The next paint- ing represents the battle of Con- stantine, fought against Maxen- tius, near the Ponte Molle, A. D. 312 : it was coloured by Giulio Romano, Pierino del Yaga, Ra- faello del Colle, and Polidoro da Caravaggio ; and is, according to some opinions, the first picture in the first class of great works. The most striking groups are, an old soldier raising his dying son ; two soldiers fighting, in the same part of the picture ; and in the oppo- site part, Maxentius in the Tiber, vainly struggling to extricate him- self. The third picture represents [ch. vnt. the baptism of Constantine by Pope Silvester ; and was coloured by Francesco Penni. Raphael has chosen, for the scene of action, the Baptistery, built by Constan- tine after he had embraced Chris- tianity, and supposed to be that of S. Giovanni in Laterano. The fourth picture, which was colour- ed by Rafaello del Colle, repre- sents the donation of the patri- mony of the church, by Constan- tine. The composition is admired; but the figures of Constantine and the Pope are said to want majesty. This picture is full of episodes; namely, soldiers driving the spec- tators back between the columns ; a beggar imploring charity ; and a father and son answering him ; a woman with her back only vi- sible, who leans upon two other women, in order to see the cere- mony ; and a child mounted on a dog. In the second room is a pic- ture, coloured by Raphael, which represents Heliodorus (Treasurer of Seleucus, King of Asia), who came to pillage the Temple at Je- rusalem, thrown down and van- quished by two Angels and a Warrior on horseback, whom God sent to the aid of his High Priest Onias ; a circumstance re- corded in the second Book of Maccabees. This picture is ex- tremely admired ; especially the Angels, who are pursuing Helio- dorus with such rapidity that they seem to fly. The Warrior on horseback is strikingly fine : the Temple appears swept of the peo- ple in a moment ; while, in the back-ground, Onias is discovered, at the altar, invoking Heaven. The episode of Julius ii. coming into the Temple on men’s shoul- ders appears to havebeena foolish whim of his, with which Raphael ROME. ROME. 477 i CH. VIII ] was unfortunately obliged to com- ply, by way of representing that Julius, like Onias, delivered the Church from its oppressors. The Pope’s chair-bearer, on the left, is a portrait of Giulio Romano. In the same room is another pic- ture, called the Miracle of Bol- sena : it was coloured by Ra- phael ; and represents a priest who doubted the real presence of Our Saviour in the Eucharist; till, being on the point of conse- crating the wafer, he saw blood drop from it. This picture is much admired ; and was extreme- ly difficult to compose, from being painted round a window, which cuts it nearly in half, Julius n. is again brought forward in an episode, and supposed to be hear- ing mass; but as the head of the Church is not to question the real presence in the Eucharist, he tes- tifies no surprise at the miracle, though the people, in general, ex- press great astonishment, in which the Swiss guards coldly partici- pate. The heads of the Cardinals, the Pope, and the Priests isaying mass, are deemed very beautiful, as is the colouring of the picture. The third painting in this room, celebrated for its composition and groups of figures, represents At- tila. King of the Huns, advancing against Rome, and discovering, in j the air, S. Peter and S. Paul descending to arrest his progress. Raphael has chosen the moment ( when the apostles are not disco - 1 vered by the army in general, but by Attila alone. Pope S. Leo ap- i pears on a mule, followed by Car- ; dinals; but Attila attends only to I' the Apostles. The figure which j represents S. Leo is a portrait of ’ Leo x.; and the Mace-bearer, on the white horse before the Pope, is a portrait of Raphael’s master, Pietro Perugino. The two Sar- matian horsemen, near Attila, are copied from Trajan’s column. The fourth picture in this room was coloured by Raphael, and repre- sents S. Peter delivered from pri- son by an Angel : it contains a double action, first S. Peter, in prison, waked by the Angel ; and secondly, S. Peter, going out of prison, conducted by the Angel, The Apostle’s figure is not ad- mired, but that of the Angel is charming ; and the manner in which the lights are managed is inimitable. The third room con- tains a picture, coloured by Ra- phael, which represents the School of Athens; and is, in point of ex- pression, a wonderful work ; for every Philosopher, by his posture and gestures, characterizes his doctrines and opinions. The scene is laid in a magnificent building, imitated from the original designs which Bramante and Buonaroti made for the church of S. Pietro in Yaticano. In the centre of the picture are Plato and Aris- totle, the masters of the school, standing on the top of a flight of steps, and apparently debating on some philosophical subject: near them is Socrates, counting with his fingers, and speaking to a fine martial figure, who represen Is Alcibiades. Next to Socrates, and distinguished by a venerable beard, is TNicomachus ; and be- low this group is a young man in white, with his hand upon his breast, said to be the portrait ot Francesco, Duke of L rhino, ne- phew to Julius ii. Next to Fran- cesco stands Terpander, the Greek musician, with his eyes fixed on Pythagoras, who is writing ; and, before whom, a youth holds a tablet, which contains the harmo- nic consonances. Next to Nice- ROME. 173 [CH. VIII, machus is Alexander the Great ; and, near Aristotle, stands a cor- pulent bald-headed figure, said to be the portrait of Cardinal Bem- bo. At the feet of Alcibiades, and clothed in the oriental garb, is Averroes, an Arabian philosopher; and immediately behind him is the profile of Aspasia. On a line with Pythagoras, seated at a table, and apparently in deep medita- tion, is Epictetus ; and beyond him, sitting alone, on the second step, is Diogenes, with a cup by his side, and a scroll in his hand. Raphael has pictured the great architect, Bramante, under the character of Archimedes ; who is tracing an hexagonal figure. The youth who stands behind Archi- medes, in an attitude of admira- tion, is said to represent Federigo Gonzaga, first Duke of Mantua. The philosopher who wears a crown, and holds a globe in his hand, is Zoroaster; at whose side stand two persons, the younger of whom, with a black cap, is a por- trait of Raphael, the elder, of Pietro Perugino. Talking with Zoroaster, and also holding a globe, is a figure said to repre- sent Giovanni, of the House of Antistes. On the opposite side of the school, and next to the base of a column, is Empedocles seated, and attending to Pytha- goras. The old head, which ap- pears just above the book placed on the base of the column, is Epicharmus ; and the Child with fine hair, just above Aspasia, is Archytas. Connoisseurs deem the composition of this picture ad- mirable ; the colouring soft and good ; and the figures elegant and well draped: and as the episodes relate to the subject, they add ma- terially to the interest excited by this piece. In the same room is a painting, the Upper part of which represents the three virtues which ought to accompany Justice ; namely, Prudence, Temperance, and Fortitude. The lower part represents, on the left, Justinian giving the Digests to Trebonian ; and, on the right, Gregory ix., under the figure of Julius u., presenting his Decretals to an ad- vocate. Opposite to the school of Athens is a painting, called Theo- logy, which represents the dispute relative to the Holy Sacrament; and was coloured by' Raphael; The composition of the lower part of this picture, and especially the group of S. Augustine dictating to a youth, is extremely admired ; but the upper part, namely, the Blessed Trinity, the Madonna, and S. John the Baptist, is said to be too much in the Gothic style. The heads of S. Gregorio, S. Ambrosio, S. Augustine, S. Domenico, S. Bonaventura, and S. Jerome, are deemed particu- larly fine. Raphael has repre- sented the four first as Fathers of the Church, seated on each side of an altar, upon which the Host is exposed. The place of assem- bly represents the foundations of a church, with part of the super- structure begun. The fourth pic- ture in this room was coloured by Raphael ; and represents Par- nassus. Homer is pictured stand- ing at the summit of the moun- tain, as an Improvvisatore , whom Apollo accompanies on the violin ; Dante is placed at the right hand of Homer, and Yirgil at the left ; the Muses surround Apollo, and the lower regions of the moun- tain contain groups of celebrated Greek, Latin, and Italian poets. Sappho sits in the fore-ground, holding a scroll with one hand, and a lyre with the other; and ROME. CH. VIII.] S apparently listening to Laura, who stands with Petrarca behind a tree. On the opposite side of jthe mountain, and next to one ;of the Muses, whose back is to- ward the spectator, stands Tibul- lus ; and next to him Boccaccio : lower down, with a medallion round his neck, is Ovid ; and im- jmediately behind him, Sannaza- ro ; while lower still stands Ho- race, in an attitude of admiration, listening to Pindar, who, like Sappho, is seated. Raphael has placed himself in the group with iHomer and Yirgil. In the fourth j room is a painting which repre- sents the victory gained by Leo iv. over the Saracens at Ostia : it is finely executed. In this room, likewise, is one of Raphael s most [celebrated works, finished by him- self, and representing the Fire in jBorgo S. Spirito, near the Vati- can ; which happened during the ^Pontificate of Leo iv. The tu- imuit and high wind, raised by the fire are wonderfully expressed; and the young man carrying his father, the figure sliding down a wall, and the woman carrying water on her head, are particular- ly admired. In the foreground is another woman, quite frantic, raising her hands toward Leo iv., who appears in a tribune ; below which is a fine group of people in- voking his assistance. The third picture in this room represents the coronation of Charlemagne, by Leo m. The composition is said to be confused ; but the young man in armour in the fore- ground is much admired. The fourth picture represents Leo hi. , Is wearing, before Charlemagne, I upon the Gospels, that he was | not guilty of the crimes laid to his I charge by the party who wished to "'depose him. The composition of 179 this picture is admired ; as are several of the heads. The surbases of these rooms are finely painted in chiaroscuro y by Polidoro di Caravaggio, and re- touched by Carlo Maratta. The Loggia , or open gallery, above the Stanze di RafFaello, leads to an Apartment containing some of the most celebrated easel- paintings extant. Firs t Room. F or tune , by G u i- do ! — the three theological Vir- tues, by Raphael — religious Mys- teries, by ditto— the Madonna, the Saviour, and S. Catherine, by Garofalo — Saints, by Perugino — and two pictures, by Beato da Fiesole, relative to the life of S. Nicolo di Bari. Second Room. The Transfigu- ration, by Raphael! !! — the Ma- donna and Saints by Titian!! — and the Communion of S. Girola- mo, by Domenichino ! ! Third Room. A Pieta , by M. A. Caravaggio ! !— S. Helena, by Paolo Veronese — the Resurrec- tion of our Saviour, by Perugino — the Madonna with four Saints, by ditto ! — and the assumption of the Madonna, designed by Ra- phael, and painted by Giulio Ro- mano, and Francesco Penni ! Fourth Room. The Madonna, and two Saints, by Guido — the Nativity of the Madonna, by Al- ba no — S. Gregorio, by Andrea Sacchi — S. Romualdo’s Vision, by ditto ! ! — and the crucifixion of S. Peter, by Guido! Fifth Room. The Martyrdom of S. Erasmus, by Niccolo Poussin — the Annunciation, by Baroccio —the Incredulity of S. Thomas, by Guercino ! — a Pieta, by An- drea Mantegna — S. Michelina, by Baroccio ! — and the lUartyrdom of two Saints, by Valentin. ISO ROME. Sixth Room. The Coronation of the Madonna, by Raphael !-— the Madonna di Foligno , by ditto ! ! ! — and the Magdalene, by Guercino 1 These rooms are open to the public every Sunday and Thurs- day morning, from twelve o’clock till four. Museo - Chiaramonti. Appar- tamento - Borgia. These rooms, four in number, contain Frag- ments of statues and Bassi-rilie - vi; fine Capitals of pillars, mar- ble columns — a Statue of JEscula- pius — a well-preserved ancient fresco, found on the Esquiline Hill, near the Gardens of Maece- nas, and commonly called, The Aldobrandini Marriage ; it is sup- posed to represent the union of Thetis with Peleus !— six other very inferior Frescos, said to be ancient — an ancient Car, found near the Circus of Caracalla, and supposed to have consisted of wood sheathed with bronze- — twelve Etruscan Sarcophagi ! — terra-cotta Lamps, etc. One of these rooms is adorned with a beautiful ceiling, by Gio- vanni da Udine, and Pi or? no del Yaga ; it represents the planets, and the Signs of the Zodiac. Galleria-Lap idaria . 1 This Gal- lery contains n very large and valuable collection of ancient Inscriptions ; several of which were found in the Catacombs : it likewise contains cinerary Urns, and other sepulchral monuments ; 1 Whenever I was permitted to see the Vatican Museum by torch-light, I had four torches (each containing four wicks) placed within a reflector, fastened to a tong pole ; and the light, thus arranged, was most judi- ciously thrown on all the finest statues, so as to display and magnify their beauties, while their imperfections were left in sha- dow. Laocoon, thus viewed, appeared fine bejond conception ; because bis figure only was exhibited, without the rest of the group. [CH. VIII. together with an immense vase, similar to the Receptacles for the ashes of victims offered to the gods, and ornamented with lions devouring weaker animals, one of the ancient emblems of death. The second division of the Gallery contains, on the right side, a Sarcophagus adorned with a recumbent female figure, sur- rounded by little Bacchanalians ; and three demi-figures in alto- rilievo below ; supposed to repre- sent a father, mother and son : it was found near the Via-Flaminia — the statue of Venus between two Muses — bust of a female Faun — Herma of Plato — statue of Mercury ! between Minerva and Ceres- — statue of a Muse, seated — small statue of Diana — frag- ment, supposed to have repre- sented either Minerva, or victory - — colossal bust of Rome— statue of Britaunicus — ditto of Demos- thenes, or Lysias, seated — statue of Apollo—- ditto of Jupiter S era- pis, very small — statue of Hercu- les- — bust of Augustus when a youth ; found at Ostia ! — statue of Maixellus seated ! between two fragments — statue of Mercury — small statues representing a wild boar, Mithras, and a Swan ! — demi-colossal statue of Tiberius seated ! well preserved, and found at Piperno, the ancient Priver- num 1 2 — Group of Silenus and a Tiger between two half-length statues — -bust, supposed to repre- sent Pompey — bust, called the 2 The fourteen cities of Asia Minor, thrown down either by the earthquake which hap- pened at Our Saviour’s crucifixion, or (ac- cording to some records) in the year 17, and which cities the Emperor assisted the inha- bitants to rebuild, erected a statue to him in consequence. On the same occasion there were two medals stamped of Tiberius ; in both of which he is represented silting, with a patera in one hand, and a spear in the other; in s' ort, precisely in the posture of this statue found at Piperno. €H. Till.] ROME. 1 SI Father of Trajan — bust of Au- i guslus when young ! — statues of Ceres, Venus, and Mercury — bust I of Neptune, found at Ostia — sta- | tuesof Ceres, Minerva, and Hy- i geia — and a colossal recumbent statue of Hercules, found at Ti- voli, in Adrian’s Villa. The left side, of this division of the Gallery contains a Bust, in terra-cotta — statues of iEscula- pius— -Venus rising from the bath, and a Vestal —colossal statue of Alexander — statue of an JEmpe- ror, with the globe in his hand- colossal bust of Trajan— ditto of Isis, found in the Garden of the Quirinal Palace — statue of Atro- pos, found in Adrian’s Villa at Tivoli — statue of an Emperor with Victory in his hand — demi- figure of a Dacian Warrior — small statue of Diana-Luna* — sta- tue of Augustus- — colossal head of a River-God — statue of Marcus Aurelius, placed on a Sarcophagus - — statues of a triform Diana — Septimius Severus — a Faun — Apollo — and Paris — and a Sarco- phagus, adorned with a recumbent female figure, surrounded by Genii, who are playing with Tortoises, and other emblems of death. Hall of the Nile , just beyond the entrance to the second divi- sion of the Gallery. This new and splendid apartment is paved with fine marbles, and well-re- stored ancient mosaics; and like- wise embellished with a beautif ul modern Frieze, copied from an- tique bassi-rilievi too much in- jured for use. The centre of the apartment exhibits a magnifi- cent ancient Vase of bronze — the celebrated group of ihc Nile ! ! — and a group of the Graces, from the Ruspoli gallery ; they are supposed to be Grecian sculpture ; but the head of the middle figure is modern. Among the sculpture on the right side of this Hall, are statues of Apollino ! — Silenus nursing the Infant Bacchus ! ! — Augustus’s Physician (probably Antonins Musa), in the character of jEsculapius! — - Minerva— Ga- nymedes, found at Ostia — the piping Faun !— an Amazon, pro- bably copied from the famous Amazon ofCtesilaus ! — and a Ca- nephoro — bust of Trajan ; excel- lent both with respect to likeness and execution ! ! -statue supposed to represent Diana in an altitude expressive of pity ; the hands and arms are restored — statue called Euripides. On the left side of this Hall are, the statue of a Priestess — ditto of Juno! — a demi- colos- sal statue of Antinous in the character of Vertumnus: it was found at Ostia ; but the head is modern ! — statue of Diana — a demi-colossal statue of Fortune, found at Ostia! — bust of Sallust, the Historian !— statues of Pin- dar — Venus — the celebrated Minerva Medica, from the Gius- tiniani gallery ! !— a Faun — Lu- cius V erus holding Victory in his hand ! —and a Discobolus — bust of a Dacian Chief— and the statue of Titus. At the end of the second divi- sion of the Galleria Lapidaria , and leading to the Museo Pio - Clemen tino, is aStaircase adorned with two columns of granite and some arabesques, by Daniello da Volterra: and to the left of the Staircase , are Apartments con- taining Statues, Busts, Egyptian Divinities recently discovered near the first Cataract of the Nile, and deemed some of the most an- cient, specimens extant of Egyp- tian sculpture ; a Mummy found in the burial-place of the Egyptian it * m KUI princes, and wonderfully well pre- served, even to the linen which fills the coffin; Mummies ofCats; several other Egyptian Antiqui- ties, and several plaster Casts, from the British Museum, of Statues and Bassi-rilievi found at Athens. Museo Pio- Clemen tino . Square Vestibule. This apartment con- tains arabesques, by Daniello da Volterra — the celebrated Belve- dere-Torso, supposed to be the remains of a group representing Hercules and Hebe, after the dei- fication of the former ; and exe- cuted, according to the inscription it bears, by Apollonius, the son of Nestor of Athens ! ! ! ! 1 — The Sarcophagus of Lucius Cornelius Scipio Barbatus, with his bust, both found in the Tomb of the Scipio family, and made of stone, called peperino 2 several Inscrip- tions relative to the Scipio family (all found in their tomb)— and, opposite to the Sarcophagus, a recumbent statue. The second Apartment con- tains a Vase of Greek marble ! ! and four Fragments of Statues ; that of a Female seated being much admired on account of the drapery. In the Balcony is an ancient Dial. The third Apartment contains a Statue of Meleager ! !— and, fix- ed into the wall on the right, a Basso - rilievo representing the Apotheosis of Homer; and, on the left, two Bassi-rilievi , the one representing a sea-port, the other an ancient Roman Galley with soldiers fighting. 1 This Torso is said lo have been found in the Campo de’ Fiori; apd it so, it pro- bably w.is one of the ornaments of Pompey s Theatre. 2 It would seem extraordinary that the bust and sarcophagus of oue of the greatest IE. [ch. vnr. Portico of the Court. To the right of the entrance door stands a Column of granite, and another of white marble adorned with fo- liage — an ancient Bath, of Black basalt, found in Caracalla’s Baths — a Basso-rilievo fixed in the wall, representing Fauns and Griffons, under which stands a fine Sarco- phagus adorned with lions’ heads, fauns, and Bacchantes, and found under the new Sacristy of S. Peter’s — here, likewise, is the Sarcophagus of Sixtus VariuS; Marcellus. First Cabinet. Perseus, by Canova — Wrestlers, by ditto— , and, in the niches on the sides of [ the arch, Statues of Mercury and s Pallas. j Continuation of the Portico. \ On the right, a Sarcophagus re- I presenting Bacchus and Ariadne ‘ in the island of Naxos — another t representing Prisoners imploring ; clemency from their conqueror — in the large niche, a Statue of Sal- lustia Barbia Orbiana, wife of Alexander Severus, in the cha- racter of Venus accompanied by j Cupid— a Sarcophagus represent- < ing Achilles slaying the Queen of | the Amazons; and, opposite tc ] these , two beautiful Half Column! | of rare marble. Second Cabinet. In the centre is the celebrated statue of Melea- ger, once called the Belvedere An- tinous ! ! ! It was found on a spot named Adrianello, near the church of S. Martino in Monte w ith one of the arms and the lef hand wanting. — On the right, fix ed in the wall, is a Basso--rilievt of Achilles killing the Queen o men of the age in which he flourished shout' be made of so common a stone as peperinc if we did not collect from Pliny that mar- ble was not used at Rome, for the purpose of sculpture, till about ihe fiftieth Oljm piad. ROME. CH. VIII.] the Amazons — opposite to this, another Basso-rilievo, represent- ing Isiaic Ceremonies — and in the niches under the arch, Priapus and a young Hercules. Continuation of the Portico. On the right is a Sarcophagus re- presenting the Seasons — -another, representing Nereides with the armour of Achilles — opposite to these, a magnificent Bath of red granite — and, fixed in the wall, a Basso-rilievo , supposed, accord- ing to some opinions, to represent ! one of the gates of the Temple of ■Janus; and, according to others, : the gate of Eternity. On each side of the entrance to the Hall of Animals is a fine Column of verde > antique, and the Statue of a Shep- • herd’s Dog! — Further on are, a i Sarcophagus, representing the bat- tle of the A thenians wi th the Ama* I? zons — another, representing Genii and Bacchanalian figures — and, ; opposite to this, a magnificent l> Bath of red granite. Third < abinet. Here is the inimitable group of Laocoon, r son of Priam and Hecuba, and high-priest of Apollo-Thyrnbraeus. ; Laocoon endeavoured to prevent the reception of the wooden horse into Troy ; in consequence of i which, he and his two sons are ( supposed to have been killed bv ' serpents! ! ! ! This is the group 1 *1 mentioned by Pliny, as having been placed in the palace of Titus, and as being the joint work of I 1 Agesander, Apollodorus, and A- j 1 thenodorus of Rhodes : it was I found, during the Pontificate of | Julius ir., in the Baths of Titus. 1 > The statue of Laocoon is univer- sally deemed a chef -d' oeuvre of antiquity ; and exhibits the pic- I 1 Some persons do ibl wl other the Laocoon oi trie Vatican be that mentioned bv Pliny; 1 because he says the group was made with i single block of marble, and the Laocoon m ture of human nature struggling with grief, and trying to oppose the stroke of fate, with all the force of intellect. The left side of this wonderful statue, where the serpent’s teeth have penetrat- ed, is that part of the body which seems to suffer most, from its proximity to the heart; and is considered as the finest produc- tion of the Grecian chisel now in existence. The right arm was wanting, and Buonaroli attempt- ed to restore it in marble; but not pleasing himself sufficiently to continue the work, it w *s after- ward done in plaster by Bernini. The sons are said to be too much formed for children of nine or ten years of age. Winckelmann sup- poses this group to have been ex- ecuted in the time of Alexander the Great; but Pliny does not name the period when Agesander and his associates so eminently distinguished themselves. This Cabinet also contains a Basso - rilievo, fixed in the wall, and re- presenting the triumph of Bacchus after his victory over the Indians ; and another, representing Bac- chanalians. In the niches, oil the sides of the arch, are Statues of Polymnia, and a Nymph, found near the Temple of Peace. Continuation of the Portico. On the right side, fixed into the wall, is a Basso-rilievo of Her- cules and Bacchus, with their re- spective attributes — and, below this, a Sarcophagus representing Genii carrying arms. Here, like- wise, is a Bath of gigantic magni- tude. Fixed in the wall is another fine Basso-rilievo of Augustus sa- crificing. In the large niche is a Statue of Ilygeia; and, fixed in of the Vatican is composed of two pieces. Winckelmann, however, tells us that, in all prohali l.ty, the joint, easily discoverable now, was not lo he perceived iii Pliny’s time. 184 ROME. the wall, a Basso - rilievo repre- senting Rome with a victorious Emperor — here, also, is another gigantic Bath of granite ; and a Sarcophagus adorned with Tri- tons and Nereides. Fourth Cabinet. This room contains the Belvedere Apollo !!!! a statue equally celebrated with the group of Laocoon, and found at Antium, toward the close of the fifteenth century. The foot on which the figure stands was broken, and the pieces are not well put together; the two hands are finely restored, especially the left. This statue is supposed to have been brought from Greece by Nero ; it is rather taller than the common height of man, ap- pears to tread on air, and exhi- bits all the masculine beauty, grace, and dignity with which we may suppose Adam to have been adorned before the fall. Two Bassi-rilievi are fixed in the walls: that on the right, representing a Chase; that on the left, Pasiphae with the bull ; and in the niches, under the arch, are Statues of Pallas, and Venus triumphant. Continuation of the Portico. Here are two Sarcophagi : in the centre of the first is Ganymedes; and in the centre of the other, Bacchus between a Faun and a Bacchante : opposite to these is a magnificent Bath of green basalt, found in Caracalla’s Baths— close to the door of entrance is a beau- tiful Column of porphyry ; and opposite to the door, a Column of white marble, adorned with sculpture in the arabesque style. Hall o f Animals. This apart- ment is divided by a vestibule adorned with columns and pilas- ters of granite. The pavement near the entrance exhibits an an- cient Mosaic of a Wolf ; and, [ch. VIII. further on, are other ancient Mo- saics, some of which were found at Palestrina. Here is an unique, numerous, and most valuable col- lection of animals sculptured in every kind of precious marble, and several of them beautifully executed. Right Side of the Hall. Some of the most striking things here are — a Dog on the back of a Stag — three Greyhounds — two Stag- hounds — Mithras stabbing the bull! — an Ibis — a Basso-rilievo representing the Triumph of Bac- chus a Table of verde antique — Europa a small Bull — the Lion killed by Hercules — Diomedes destroyed by Hercules — a Cen- taur and a Love — a Stag in flow- ered alabaster — and a Lobster. Gallery of Statues. The most remarkable pieces of sculpture on the right side of this apartment are- — a Statue of Claudius Albinus —a half-length Figure of Love, supposed to have been executed by a Grecian artist — a Statue of Paris with the apple of discord — Hercules — Minerva with the olive branch in her hand — a Statue, apparently Etruscan, of a Woman seated — Caligula — a Satyr and a Nymph — an Amazon! — a Faun just waking from sleep ! — Juno ! — a seated Figure bearing the name of Posidipos ! ! — a small Isis —heads of Augustus, Julius Cse- sar, Balbinus, Marcus Aurelius, Titus, Ajax, Cai acalla, Septimius Severus, Antoninus Pius, Clau- dius Drusus, Nero, Socrates, and Jupiter Serapis; the last in black basalt. At the bottom of the apartment is a Statue of Jove seated, with the lightning in his hand ! ! (the Basso-rilievo on the pedestal represents Sdenus and a Faun!)— a Statue of Li via, and a bust of Antinous. The other side ROME. , €H. VIII.] of the apartment contains a co- lossal Bust of Minerva — a Group representing Cato and Portia — four Busts of Plato — a Bust of Socrates — a sitting statue bearing the name of Menander ! ! — Nero in the character of Apollo — a Statue of Septimius Severus — a sitting Statue of Dido— Neptune with his trident — Narcissus! — Bacchus as a River - God — the Emperor Macrinus — iEsculapius and Hygeia — Yenus — Seneca in a consular habit — a Female sleep- : ing — one of the Danaides, with a vase in her hand ! - a Faun lean- ing against a tree — and a Statue of Diana ! ! Cabinet of mosaic Masks. The ceiling of this elegant room was painted by Domenico di Angelis, and represents the marriage of Bacchus and Ariadne — Paris giv- ing the apple to Yenus — Diana and Endymion — Yenus and Ado- i nis — and Paris and Minerva. Here are eight Columns and eight Pilasters of oriental alabaster — a | beautiful ancient F rieze — a Basso - i rilievo , representing the apotheo- sis of Adrian — with others allusive to the labours of Hercules. Here, J also, are Seats of porphyry — a Basin and a Chair of rosso antico —a beautiful antique mosaic Pave- ment, found in Adrian’s villa— a 1 Statue of a Bacchante ! ! — Ditto of « Yenus coming out of the hath ! ! —Ditto of one of Diana s Nymphs with a torch ! ! — a Faun in rosso I antico, found in Adrian’s villa ! ! ! — Paris with the apple — Minerva I — Ganymedes with the eagle ! — 1 and Adonis, or Anlinous ! ! ! Continuation of the Gallery of f Statues. A Priestess — a female Figure, marked 727 ! ! ! — a re- I cumbent demi -colossal Statue, >i called Cleopatra, but supposed to 185 represent Ariadne ! ! ! — Mercury, and Lucius Yerus ! Continuation of the Hall of Animals. Right side, going out of the Gallery — an equestrian Sta- tue of Commodus — Hercules — an Eagle — Goals with a Bacchus — two Tigers' — two Lions, one of ■which holds in his claws the head of a hull — two Bassi-rilievi fixed in the wall, the one represents a cow sucking a calf, the other two wild Boars driven by a Love — a Sphinx of flowered alabaster — the head of an Ass — three small Horses — two Cows — a Sow with her Pigs — a wild Boar — Hercules killing Gerion — a Cow, in grey marble - a Statue of Meleager — a Horse — Hercules and Cerberus— a Stork with a serpent in its mouth —several Heads of horses, oxen, and mules — a group of a marine Monster and a Nymph — a Yase — two Goats — the Head of a Cow — a Lion devouring a Horse — and a Table of verde antique. Hall of the Muses. This apart- ment is adorned with sixteen Co- lumns of Carrara marble, whose Capitals were taken from Adrian’s Yilla. On the right is a Statue of Silenus, and another of Bacchus in female attire. Here, likewise, are Statues of the Muses, found at Tivoli, in the Yilla of Cassius — Apollo in his theatrical habit — Herrnse of Sophocles — Epicurus —Hippocrates — iEschiiies — De- mosthenes — Antisthenes — Aspa- sia — and Pericles — a Statue of Sappho! — a Hernia of Bias — a Statue of Lycurgus, or Lysias — a Henna of Periander — a Bust of Alcihiades — Herrnse of Socrates — Zeno — Euripides — and Aratus. The Pavement exhibits a Mosaic (found at Lorium) representing comic and tragic Actors— and an- •186 ROME. [ch. vm. other Mosaic, in the arabesque style, found near S. Maria Mag- giore. The ceiling was painted by the Cay. Conca, and represents Apollo and Marsyas — the seven sages of Greece — Homer singing to Minerva — Apollo and some of the Muses, with Homer, Yirgil, Ariosto, and Tasso, in the angles. Here likewise are Bassi-rilievi representing Pluto and Proserpine —the combat of the Lapithse with the Centaurs, and the birth of Bacchus. The entrance to the large cir- cular hall contains, on the arch of the door to the right, a medallion of Juno — in the niche a Statue of Pallas — and, below, a medallion with a festoon and a Medusa — in the opposite niche a Statue of Mnemosyne — and below r , a Bas - so-rilievo of three poets. Circular Hall. The Pavement of this apartment is an ancient Mosaic (found at Otricoli) repre- senting Medusa’s head, and the battle of the Lapithse with the Centaurs, encircled by another ancient Mosaic, representing ma- rine Monsters, and found in the environs of Set ofano — a magni- ficent porphyry Basin, forty-one feet in circumference, adorns the centre of this apartment, which is seventy feet in diameter, and con- tains a colossal Bust of Jupiter ! ! ! • — ditto of Faustina the elder! — ditto of Adrian (formerly in his Mausoleum) — ditto of Antinous — a Henna representing the Ocean — a Bust of Jupiter Serapis — ditto of the Emperor Claudius— ditto of Plotina — ditto of Julia Pia — ditto of Pertinax ! — two Hermoe (one on each side of the entrance door) found in Adrian’s Y ilia , and re- 1 Juno was worshipped at Lanuvium (where this statue was found) under the title of Sospila , and represented as clothed presenting Bacchantes ! colossal Statues of Commodus in the cha- racter of Hercules— Augustus in a sacrificial habit — Ceres, or Mel- pomene restored as Ceres ! ! ! — - Antoninus Pius — Nerva! ! — Juno, as queen of heaven ! ! ! — the same heathen divinity as the goddess of health, with the dart, shield, 1 etc. ; and a Group representing Bacchus, a Tiger and a Satyr. The busts are placed on columns of porphyry and other rare mar- bles. Vestibule in the form of a Greek cross. The door of this apartment is magnificently orna- mented with two Egyptian Idols of i ed granite, under the form of Caryatides, taken from Adrian’s Yiila, and bearing the likeness of Antinous — two vases of red gra- nite, and a fine antique Basso - rilievo representing a combat be- tween gladiators and wild beasts. The Pavement is adorned with an ancient Mosaic, representing ara- besques, and a head of Minerva found at Tusculum ; and the apartment also contains a half- draped Statue of Augustus; and, fixed into the wall, rding to the Version of the Septuagint; and from which all the subsequent copies have been taken — a very large Hebrew Bible, presented to the library by the Dukes ef Ur- bino, and for which the Venetian Jews offered its weight in gold a Greek Manuscript, containing the Acts ot the Apostles in letters of gold : ( this was given to Innocent viii., by Charlotte, Queen of Cy- prus,) — a missal, written in 11 18 — another adorned with Minia- tures by Giulio Clovio, the scholar of Giulio Romano, and the finest miniature painter of his time — a ; large Breviary, adorned with fine Miniatures, and presented to the library by Matthias Corvinus, King of Hungary — the Annals of Baronius, written with his own hand in twelve volumes — several volumes of ecclesiastical History, by the learned Onofrio Panvinio, Augustine-— a Marty rology, curi- ous on account of its antiquity, and its Miniatures — Manuscripts relative to S. Carlo Borromeo — a manuscript 1 liny , with beautiful Miniatures of animals — a Virgil of the fifth century, written in ca- pital letters, and adorned with mi- niatures representing the Trojans and Latians in the dress of their own times 1 II — a Terence equally ancient — another Terence, of the I 1 These paintings are not good; hut they lj have been excellently engraved by Santi Bartoli, and may be purchased at the Calco- II gratia C, merale. |j ' 2 It seems extraordinary that there are no ninth century, illuminated with ancient masks — a beautiful Tasso — a Dante adorned with exquisite Paintings, begun by the Floren- tine school, and finished by Giulio Clovio — a Treatise on the seven Sacraments, composed by Henry viii. ofEngland — original Letters between that Prince and Anna Bullen — several Papers written by Luther — the Lives of Frederico di Monte Feltre, and Francesco Maria della Povera, Dukes of Ur- bino, adorned with exquisite Mi- niatures by Giulio Clovio — several Manuscripts written on Egyptian papyrus — and the Gospels ofS. Luke and S. John, written in the tenth century, and bound in ivo- ry. 2 From the upper part of this Hall branch two Galleries, form- ing, altogether, a length of nearly half a mile. The Gallery on the right is supported by fine Columns of por- phyry ; two of which, with figures on the top, w^ere taken from the Arch of Constantine. Here are modern Paintings - Presses filled with books - Etruscan and Gre- cian Vases — and, at the extremity of the Gallery, a Cabinet con- taining beautiful Cammei of Ju- piter, iEsculapius, etc. — Etruscan Antiquities (among w 7 hich is the recumbent figure of a Child ! ) — the finest Bust extant of Augus- tus ! ! — a Bust of Nero -ditto of Septimius Severus — an ancient silver Salver or Shield— Human Hair found in a sarcophagus — ancient Seals, Rings, etc. The commencement of the Gal- lery on the left, contains verv fine Etruscan and Grecian Vases ancient Rituals here, to show the alterations supposed to have taken place in Church- ceremonies since the time of the primitive Christians. 190 ROME. —Presses filled with books™a Statue of S. Hippolito, 1 found iii the Cemetery of S. Lorenzo — and a statue of Aristides of Smyrna. The second division contains a Ceiling, by Pozzi, which repre- sents the Church and Religion — ancient lamps — Instruments of torture, and other ant ques, re- lative to the primitive Christians — and an original Portrait of Charlemagne, in Stucco. Near the end of this Gallery is a Cabi- net superbly adorned with por- phyry and other precious marbles ; hung round with specimens of the Egyptian Papyrus ; and exhibit- ing, on its Ceiling, the chef- d’ ceuvi'e of Mengs ; who has re- presented, over the doors, Moses andS. Peter, beautifully painted, though less worthy of admiration than the four Genii, and the four Children, on the coves of the ceiling ! ! In the centre of this ceiling is History resting upon the wings of Time a tablet sup- posed to record the works of Cle- ment xiv. ; while a Genius pre- sents scrolls of papyrus, by means of which the Pontiff’s fame may be transmitted to posterity. Ja- nus is introduced into the picture, as indicative of the present and the past : he appears to be dic- tating to History. This Cabinet also contains two Candelabra, given by Napoleon to Pius vii. Beyond the cabinet of Mengs are two Rooms in a direct line; and two others on the right ; one of which contains a celebrated Col- lection of Engravings; beautiful Etruscan and Grecian Vases, and a Ceiling painted by Guido; the other contains magnificent Vases, and ancient Inscriptions fixed in the walls. Returning from the 1 This is the most ancient marble slatui in the Lime of A1 [CH. VIII. cabinet of Mengs, you see, on the lei t, two rooms; the first of which contains paintings, on the Ceiling, by Guido; together with some fine Grecian Vases : the second contains Grecian Vases; together with ancient Inscriptions fixed in the wall. Chiesa dei P. P. Cappuccini , in Piazza Barberini. This Pi- azza is supposed to have made part of the ancient Circus of Flo- ra ; where , according to Sueto- nius, elephants danced on ropes. The Chiesa dei Cappuccini is rich in paintings. The first picture on the right represents the Arch- Angel Michael ; and is deemed Guido’s finest easel production ! ! ! S. Paul receiving his sight, in the Chapel opposite to that which contains the Arch-Angel, is by Pietro da Cortona ! ! and over the door of the church is a cartoon, by Giotto, from which the mosaic, called The Navicella, and placed in the portico of S. Peter’s, was taken ! Palazzo - Barberini. A fine Basso-rilievo at the foot of the stairs — a fine Alto-rilievo of a Lion (taken from Palestrina), on the first landing place. First floor. The ceiling of the principal Hall of entrance was painted by Pietro da Cortona ! ! The subjects are allusive to Ur- ban viii. The centre exhibits the Barberini arms carried to Heaven by the Virtues, in presence of Providence, who is surrounded by Time, Eternity, and the Fates. On one side is Minerva van- quishing the Titans ; on another are Religion and Faith, with Vo- luptuousness beneath on the left, and Silanus on the right. On the third side are figures of Justice extant of a Christian; it was executed ;xander Sevexus. ROME. 191 CH. VIII.] and Abundance in the air ; and, below them, Charity on the right, and Hercules killing the Harpies on the left. On the fourth side is a figure which represents the Church, accompanied by Pru- dence, sending Peace to shut the Temple of Janus, chasing the Eumenides, and ordering Vulcan to forge arms for the defence of Rome. Another Hall of entrance contains statues of Commodus, Juno, Dido, and Tiberius ; toge- ther with Sarcophagi, etc., found at Palestrina; and the statue of a Faun byBuonaroli. The Apartments on the second floor contain, S. Matthew, by Guercino — S. Luke, by ditto — S. Carlo Borommeo, by Pietro da Cortona — -S. Girolamo, by Spag- noletto — the Guitar Player, by M. A. Caravaggio — S. Andrea Corsini, by Guido-— the death of Germanicus, by Nicolo Poussin! — a small Landscape, by Claude, between two small paintings, by Albano— -Raphael’s Fornarina, by himself !— the portrait of a Lady, by Titian ! — and a picture by Al- bert Durer. The lollowing cele- brated paintings have recently been added to this collection. Adam and Eve driven from Pa- radise, by Domenichino — an An- gel announcing to the Shepherds the birth of the Messiah, by Ber- gamo— a large Landscape, by Claude— the Holy Family, by An- drea del Sarto - David with the head of Goliah, by Guercino — the Cenci, by Guido — the Madonna and our Saviour, by Raphael— and Leda, by Correggio . 1 Chiesa di S. Maria della Vit- toria. The front of this edifice was built after the designs of Gio- vanni Battista Soria ; and the in- terior part after those of Carlo Ma- derno : stands on the site of the gardens of Sallust ; and is deemed, in point of architecture, one of the most beautiful churches at Rome. The inside is adorned with pilasters of Sicilian jasper, a well painted ceiling, a handsome marble pavement, good altar- pieces, and fine sculpture. The paintings in the second Chapel, on the right, are by Domenichino ! The last Chapel, in the cross-aisle, contains a group, in marble, of Joseph and an Angel, by Dome- nico Guido : the opposite Chapel, on the left, contains a group of S. Teresa and an Angel, by Ber- nini. Here, likewise, are two sarcophagi adorned with fine Busts, by Bernini; and an Alto- rilievo , in bronze, representing the last supper, by the same artist. The next Chapel is embellished with fine marbles ; and contains an altar-piece, by Guercino; with a picture, on each side, by Guido. Fontana di T ermine. This Fountain, which is opposite to the church of S. Maria della Vittoria, was erected by Fontana, at the command of Sixtus v. In the centre of the edifice is a Statue of Moses ; and on each side a Basso - rilievo ; the one representing Aaron conducting the Israelites to quench their thirst ; the other Gideon encouraging them to pass the river Jordan, and directing his soldiers to lead the way. This fountain is likewise ornamented with four Lions, two of which are white porphyry, and two basalt ; the latter being Egyptian sculp- ture, and highly estimated. Chiesa di S. Andrea a Monte- Cavallo. This beautiful little Church was built by Bernini, in 1 The Barberini-Falac© is shewn f.om len in the morning till t\ o. ROME- 492 [ch. Tin. the form of an ancient temple; it is adorned with fine marble ; and contains, in the first Chapel on the right, a picture of S. Francesco Saverio, by Baciccio; by whom likewise are the paint- ings on each side. The Crucifixion ofS. Andrew, over the high-altar, is by Bourguignone ; and the next Chapel, dedicated to S. Stanislas, is ornamented with a picture of that Saint, by Carlo Maratta; and a Sarcophagus oflapis lazuli. In the conventual edifice adjoining to this church is a Chapel, once the chamber of S. Stanislas, which contains his Statue, by Le Gros ! Palazzo - Pontificio. This princely edifice is situated on the Quirinal hill ; and supposed to stand on the ruins of the Baths of Constantine. It was begun by Paul in., continued by Gregory Xin., and finished by succeeding Pontiffs. The Court-yard, or open Quadrangle of the palace, is three hundred feet long, by one hundred and sixty-five wide ; three parts bing surrounded with porticos. The large staircase on the right, leads to the public Chapel, which has been recently fitted up with great elegance by the present Pope. Contiguous to this chapel is a magnificent suite of apart- ments splendidly furnished in the French style, and enriched with a good collection of pictures ; among which are, in the first room , Saul and David, by Guercino — -S. Agnes, by Annibale Caracci — an Ecce Homo , by Domenichino— a sketch of the Transfiguration, by Raphael! The martyrdom of the Jesuits, by Bassano— the Madon- na and our Saviour, by Guido — - S. Catherine, by Annibale Caracci —Ditto by the Cav, d’Arpino— S. John, by Giulio Pvomano — the Madonna and our Saviour, by Rubens — the same subject, by Baroccio — the Madonna, our Sa- viour, S. John, etc., by Palma Yecchio. The small Chapel, ad- joining to this room, is beautifully painted, by Guido ; the subject being the life of the Madonna, and the Annunciation, over the altar, is particularly admired. The se- cond room contains pictures of Animals by Petri, a living artist. The third room is adorned with a fine Ceiling. The fourth with a Frieze, by Thorwaldsen, repre- senting the triumph of Alexander, and a fine Ceiling. The fifth room contains an elegant Bed, and a fine Frieze, representing the tri- umph of Trajan, by Finetti. In the sixth room are copies of Ra- phaels Arabesques, and a fine Frieze : in the seventh room a beautiful Chimney-piece, and a Ceiling by Palagi. The ninth room contains a picture of S. Pe- ter, by Fra Bartolomeo!! — S. Paul by the same great artist ! ! — S. Girolamo, by Spagnoletto — S. Cecilia, by Vanni — S. George, by Pordenone — our Saviour dis- puting with the doctors, by M. A. Caravaggio !! — the adoration of the Magi, by Guercino — the mar- riage of S. Catharine, by Battoni * — S. Cecilia, S. Agnes, etc., by Caraccioli — S. Sebastiano, by Paolo Veronese— the Ascension of our Saviour, by Vandyck — and a picture by Annibale Caracci, representing a Legend. These Apartments cannot be seen without an order from the Cardinal Secretary of State. Palazzo Rospigliosi. This edi- fice was erected on the ruins of Constantine’s Baths; and its Garden contains a Pavilion, the outside of which is adorned with four large Bassi-rilievi , found in Trajan’s Forum, and three small itnr. vih.] ROME. 493 J ones, found in the Baths of Con- grippa, for the useof hisbaths; and 1 stantine. On the Ceiling of the derives its name of Jcqua Fergine i principal room of the Pavilion is from a young female Peasant, who I the celebrated Aurora of Guido, discovered the source, and showed f. according to many opinions, the it to some famishing soldiers. It is finest Fresco at Rome ! ! ! Here deemed the best water at Rome, i likewise are two Loves, by the The decorations of this Fountain same artist; two Landscapes, by were designed by Niccolo Salvi, Paul Brill; two Paintings, by at the command of Clement xir. fTempesta, both taken from Pe- The Statues represent Ocean, Sa- trarca ; the one represents the lubrity, and Abundance ; and the ^Triumph of Fame, and the other Bassi'-rilieoi over the two last, the Triumph of Love : two Co- represent A grippa and the Pea- lums of rosso antico; a bronze sant-Girl. ' •Horse, and a statue of Minerva : Chiesa di 8. Maria del Pop olo. khe four last were found in Con- This church, which stands on the stanti ne’s Baths. site of a sepulchral Monument that. Room on the right. Death of according to the best authorities, Sampson, by Lodovico Caracei — belonged to the Family of Domi- i bead of Guido, by himself. Gar- tian, contains, in the first and third den of Eden, by Domenichino» — Chapels, to the right, paintings and Sophonisba, after having swal- by Pinturicchio; the intermediate lowed poison, by Calabrese. Chapel contains an oil-painting. Room on the left. The Tri- on the wall, by Carlo Maratta. umph of David, by Domenichino ! The paintings in the tribuna are —the Saviour, and the twelve by Pinturicchio : and the Chapel 'Apostles (each being a separate to the right of the high-altar con- picture), by Rubens— the Saviour tains a picture of the Assumption, bearing his Gross, by Danielio by Annibale Caracei ! The Cbigi- da Yolterra— Matrimony, by Gi- Chapel was decorated according forgione — Andromeda, by Guido— to the designs of Raphael; and a Love, by Niccolo Poussin head contains a statue of Jonas, de- of Ditto, by himself— the five signed by him, and executed under I Senses, by Carlo Cigniani!— and his immediate orders, by Loren- an Ecce Homo , by Guido. Busts zetto ! ! The statue of Elias, also, is I of Adrian, Septimius Sever us, supposed to have been designed by ♦Cicero, and Seneca, found in the Raphael; the other statues were 'Baths of Constantine; and the dome by Bernini. Near this chapel • celebrated busts, in basalt, ofSci- is the singular Monument of the pio African us. found, according to Princess Odescalchi Chigi. Fulvius Ursinus, at Literatim ; Chiesa di S. Carlo al Cor so. and bearing, on the right side of This Church was begun according the head, a mark which resembles to the designs of Onorio and Mar- a scar. This mark may be seen tino Lunghi, and finished by on the marble bust of Scipio, in Pietro da Cortona; who erected the Capitol; and likewise on his the cupola. The picture which bust in the Villa Albani. adorns the high-altar is by Carlo Fontana di Trevi. The water Maratta, and represents the Apo- which supplies this beautiful Foun- theosis of S. Carlo ! The Tribuna, tain was brought to Rome by A- the angles of the cupola, and the 194 HOME. [CH. VIII. ceiling of tlie nave, were painted by Brandi. The Chapel in the cross, on the right, was designed by the Cav. Paolo Posi; and the picture in mosaic, with which it is adorned, is a copy of that painted by Carlo Maratta in the church of the Madonna del Popolo : the sta- tue of Judith is by Le Bran; and that of David by Pietro Pacilli. The third Chapel on the right contains a picture of S. Barnaba, by Mola ! Chiesa di S. Lorenzo in Lu~ cilia. The high- altar of this Church is adorned with a cele- brated picture of the Saviour on the Cross, by Guido. Chiesa di S. Ignazio. This magnificent edifice was erected by Cardinal Lodovico Lodovisio, chiefly after the designs of Dome- nichino ; it is ornamented with fine antique columns of marble ; and contains two beautiful Cha- pels made after the designs of the celebrated Father Pozzi, a Jesuit. That on the right is adorned with an alto-rilievo , by Le Gros, representing S. Luigi Gonzaga, whose body is deposited here in a tomb incrusted with lapis lazuli. The other Chapel contains a basso-rilievo , by Filippo Yalle, representing the Annunciation. Here, likewise, is the Monument of Gregory xv., by Le Gros; and a Picture of S. Giuseppe dying, by Trevisani ! The Ceil- ings of the nave and tribuna are painted by Pozzi; and the former represents the Apotheosis of S. Ignatius ; from whose head issue rays, emblematical of his having enlightened the four quarters of the world Chiesa de S. S. Apostoli. This noble structure was erected by Constantine ; and afterward re- built by Fontana. The Portico of the old edifice is still entire ; and contains an antique basso - rilievo of an Eagle at one end ; and, at the other, a basso-rilievo of Friendship deploring the death of Volpato, by Canova. The church is divided into three aisles by pilasters of the Corinthian or- der. The Ceiling of the nave was painted by Baciccio ; and re- presents the Triumph of S. Fran- cesco. The Ceiling of the tri- buna was painted by Odazzi, and represents the F all of the Angels ! ! The high altar-piece is by Dome- nichino Muratori. The first Cha- pel on the right, near the great door, and the Chapel in the cross, on the right, are particularly rich in marbles : and, adjoining to the latter, is another Chapel, which contains eight beautiful antique fluted Columns of white marble. The second Chapel on the left near the great door, is adorned with particularly fine columns of verde antique and other marbles : and over the door of the sacristy is the Monument of Ciement xiv. by Canova; who has placed the statue of the Pope between tw r o female figures, namely, Temper- ance and Meekness ! Chiesa di S. Maria di Lo? retlo. This little Church, which is deemed a fine piece of archi- tecture, w as built by Sangallo ; and has a double cupola, like S. Peter’s : it contains a celebrated statue of S. Susanna, by Fia- mingo. Chiesa di Gesii. This magni- ficent edifice was erected by Car- dinal Alessandro Farnese, after the plan of Vignola; and finish- ed by Giacomo della Porta, The Frescos on the ceiling of the nave, tribuna, and cupola, are by Baciccio; who has represented S, Francesco Saverio ascending to OH. Villi] Heaven !! The angles of the cu- pola are particularly beautiful. The Chapel in the cross, on the right, was made after the designs of Pietro da Cortona ; and con- tains a picture by Carlo Maratta, representing the death of S. Fran- cesco Saverio. The high altar is decorated with fine columns of giallo antico, and a picture of the Circumcision, by Muziano ! The Chapel of S. Ignatius, executed after the designs of Father Pozzi, is peculiarly magnificent; the co- lumns which adorn the altar being lapis lazuli fluted with bronze gilt ; and the globe held by the Deity the largest piece of lapis lazuli ever seen. Above the al- tar, in a niche incrusted with lapis lazuli, is a demi-colossal Statue of S. Ignatius accompa- nied by three Angels, and done after the designs of Le Gros. The remains of the Saint repose un- I dec the altar, in a tomb of bronze ! gilt, adorned with bassi-rilievi and precious stones : and on one side of the altar is a celebrated group of Religion vanquishing ,j Heresy, by Le Gros; and on the ! other side a group, by Teudone, .1 which represents idolatrous na- tions embracing Christianity. The i Ceiling was painted by Baciccio. This church contains one of the ;|i best organs at Rome. 1 Chiesa di S. Andrea della j, Valle. This noble edifice stands, « according to some opinions , on ' the site of the Curia of Pompey, I where Caesar was assassinated: 1 its Cupola, by Lanfranco, is deem- i. ed a master-piece!! the four r Evangelists in the angles are by jj Domenichino ; and the S. John 4, is called his chef-d'oeuvre in this ■ 1 There frequently i$ fine music here ; 1 and espec ally on I tie Feslival of Corpus 9 1 p.jimni, and lor some days after. *9$ description of painting. The Ceiling of the tribuna was done by the same great artist, and re- presents the life of S. Andrew : the three large frescos on the walls of the tribuna are by Cala- brese, and represent the martyr- dom of S. Andrew. The Strozzi- Chapel was designed by Buona- roti ; and the Barberini-Ghapel is rich in marbles and sculpture, and in paintings, by Passignani. Chiesa della Trinitd , de Po- le gr ini. This Church contains a High Altar-Piece by Guido, re- presenting the Trinity. Our Sa- viour is on the cross accompanied by two kneeling Angels ; his figure and countenance are parti- cularly fine ; over the cross hovers a dove ; and higher up, is God the F ather ! ! ! The repi esentation of the Deity in the lantern is like- wise by Guido. Chiesa di S. Carlo a Cate - nari. This is a noble edifice, adorned with one of the most beautiful cupolas in Rome. The Ceiling of the tribuna was painted by Lanfranco; and the cardinal \irtues, in the angles of the cu- pola, by Domenichino : they are strikingly fine; particularly the figure of Fortitude!!! The An- nunciation in the first Chapel, on the right of the entrance-door, is by Lanfranco ; and the death of S. Anna, in one of the Chapels of the cross, by Andrea Sacchi! The high altar is decorated with four columns of porphyry , and a picture by Pietro da Cortona. The Ceiling of the Sacristy was painted by Lanfranco, and repre- sents the Assumption ; and an ad- joining room contains a portrait of S. Carlo, by Guido ! 2 2 The Church of S. Carlo a Catenari con- tains a Monument to the memory of Lorenzo Sperandi ; with au epitaph, which records ROME. m ROME. Chiesa di S. Giovanni de Fio- rentini. This fiue Church, erect- ed according to the designs of Giacomo della Porta, contains a Picture of the martyrdom of Saints Cosimo and Damiano, by Salvator Rosa! a Chapel pa nted by Lanfranco ! a Picture of S. Gi- rolamo by Cigoli ; and the Monu- ment of one of the Corsini- family, by Algardi. Chiesa di S. Maria in Valli- cella, commonly called Chiesa Nuova. This splendid Church was built by S. Filippo Neri, after the designs of Martino Lunghi and Pietro da Cortona ; the latter of whom painted the Ceiling of the Nave, the Cupola, and the upper part of the Tri- buna; which last represents the Assumption. The Altar-Piece of the first Chapel on the right was done by Scipio Gaetano — the dead Christ, in the next Cha- pel, is a copy from M. A. Ca- ravaggio’s celebrated picture in the Vatican. The high-altar is adorned with four fine columns of Porta-Santa, and a superb Ciborio. The Tribuna con- tains Paintings, by Guido; but they are considerably damaged. The Chapel of S. Filippo Neri, (under one of the organs), con- tains his ashes, and his portrait in mosaic, copied from the origi- nal of Guido ; the Chapel under the other organ contains a pic- [ch. Tin, ture, by Carlo Maralta. The next Chapel to that of S. Fi- lippo Neri contains a picture, by Baroccio, of the Presentation of the Madonna in the Temple ! The following Altar-Piece is by the same artist, and represents the Visitation : and the Paint- ings in the last Chapel are by the Cav. d’Arpino. The Sacristy is adorned with a statue of S. Fi- lippo Neri, by Algardi! a pic- ture of the Madonna contem- plating the crown of thorns, by Trevisanni; and a Ceiling finely painted by Pietro da Cortona ! The apartments above-si airs con- tain a Ceiling which represents S. Filippo Neri, by Pietro da Cortona ; the portrait of the Saint from which the mosaic in the church was taken, and a head of our Saviour , by Pietro Peru- gino ! Chiesa di S. Maria della Pace. This Church contains, on the right of the great door, Ra- phael’s celebrated Sibyls, sup- posed to be predicting the birth of our Saviour !!! 2 This inestim- able fresco was almost oblite- rated, and would soon have been totally extinct, had not a liv- ing artist restored it; and so well has he executed this difficult task , that every lover of the art of painting would wish to see him employed in restoring those frescos of the Stanze di Raf- that lie was famous for terminating amicably the differences which occurred amongst his friends and relations ; an uncommon pane- gyric, though one of the greatest, perhaps, that can be bestowed on any man. 1 If the Etrurians were, as some authors suppose, originally Cananeans, probably they might bring the Old Testament into Italy : — and as the Romans borrowed many of their religious ceremonies from the Etrurians, it seems fair to infer that the Sibylline Oracles might be derived from the Bible. Libyca prophesied, “ That the day would come when all men y,ouJd see the King of all living things.” Cumsea, a Babylonian, pro- phesied, 1 11 That God would he born of a Virgin, and converse among sinners.” Del- phica prophesied, “ Thai a Prophet vould be born of a Virgin.” Erythraja, a Baby- lonian, foretold a great part of the Christian religion, in verses recorded by Eusebius; the first letters of which, being put together, make the words, “ Jesus Christ , Son of God, Saviour:” and Persica foretold, “That the womb of the Virgin would prove the salva- ti< n of the Gentiles.” The word Sibylla is Oriental, and signifies “ a Gleaner of ears of corn.” €H. VIII.] faelloy which are hastening ra- pidly to decay. Above the si- byls are four Prophets, likewise by Raphael. The Frescos on the left of the great door are attri- buted. to Timoteo d’Urbino. The second Chapel, on the right, is embellished with good sculpture; J and this church also contains a picture of the Visitation, by Carlo I Maralta. Chiesa di S . jfgos tino . Here l is a celebrated Fresco of the Pro- \ phet Isaiah , by Raphael, placed to i the left of the great door, and on the third pilaster of the nave ! ! Palazzo-Borghese. This is one of the most splendid edifices at Rome; and particularly rich in Pictures. The Quadrangle con- tains statues of Giulia Faustina, I i an Amazon, etc. The paintings usually shown to Strangers are in the apartments on the ground I floor; the first room of which {. contains — the Saviour taken into j, custody, by Vanderweck- — S.Ca- |, therine, and other figures, by Par- i ^negianino — a fine painting, by Bassano — S. Peter, by Spagnolet- to — the Saviour, by Valentin — a I sketch, by Giorgione ! — S. Fran- cesco, by the Cav. d’Arpino * — Holy Family, School of Titian — | S. Domenico, by Andrea Sacchi — Holy Family, by Benvenuto Ga- i rofolo ! — and the same subject, |j by Sasso-Ferrato. The second j room contains — a dead Christ, by Federico Zuccari! — head of ' Christ, by Agostino Caracci ! — : head of the Magdalene, by ditto ! y — -Christ dead, by Garofalo! — Diana shooting, by Domenichi- i no!! — Holy Family, by Carlo Dolci — Christ bearing his cross, \ by Muziano — Christ on the cross, ■ with the two Marys standing near, by Giulio Romano — head of S. • Antonio, by Agostino Caracci— < 497 head of S. Francesco, by the same artist ! — a Landscape, by the Ca- racci School - headof the Saviour, by Garofalo — and the Saviour, the Apostles, etc., School of Ti- tian ! — This room likewise con- tains a Sarcophagus of porphyry, found in Adrian's Mausoleum. Third room - — A Madonna and Child, by Garofalo — the same subject, by Giovanni Bellino — — head of an old man, by Giulio Romano — ditto of Raphael, by himself !— ditto of Petrarca, by Holbens ! — two paintings, by Gen- tilisca-a story from Ariosto, by Lanfranco ! — Holy Family, by Titian — Pordenone and his Fa- mily, by himself ! — the Last Sup- per, School of Titian — S. Anto- nio preaching to the Fishes, by Paolo Veronese — the Madonna and Our Saviour, by Francesco Frangi — S. John Baptist in the Desert, by Paolo Veronese — and S. Francesco, by Annibale Ca- ratci. Fourth room — S. Cecilia, by Domenichino ! — S. John, by Giulio Romano — S. Sebastiano, by Rustichino — the Descent from the Cross, by Raphael ! ! — a Mo- ther in bed, surrounded with her Children, School of Titian — the Flagellation, by Sebastiano del Piombo ! — a group of Figures eat- ing, byFiamingo. Fifth room — The Woman taken in Adultery, by Titian ! — Holy Family, by An- drea del Sarto — Holy Family, by the School of Raphael — four oval pictures, by Albano ! ! — the bat- tle of Constantine, by the Cav. d’Arpino — two landscapes, by the Caracci School — and the Madon- na and Our Saviour, by Pietro Pe- rugino. Sixth room — Leda, at- tributed to Leonardo da Vinci — Venus, by Paolo Veronese— the Graces, by Giulio Romano— Ve- nus, by Andrea del Sarto — ditto. ROME. m by Giulio Romano — Ctipid and Psyche, by Dossi — and Venus, by Annibale Caracci. Seventh room — Holy Family, by Giorgione — ancient Mosaics— Descent from the Gross, by Marcello Yenuschi — Orpheus, by Paul Brill, and a Picture Gallery, by Fiamingo. Eighth room — sacred and pro- fane Love, by Titian ! ! — Portrait of Caesar Borgia, by Raphael ! — . a portrait, by Pordenone -a Car- dinal, by Raphael ! Ninth room — the Graces, by Titian ! ! — the Prodigal Son, by Guercino ! — the Saviour on the Cross, by Yan- dyck ! — a Boy with Flowers, by Annibale Caracci — Holy Family, by Andrea del Sarto— Carriage of Cana, with two small pictures on the sides, by Garofolo — Ado- raLion of the Magi, by Bassano I ! — a sketch of Sampson, by Ti- tian — and a Portrait of Cosimo de’ Medici, by Bronzino. Tenth room — Holy Family, by Yenus- chi — the same subject, by Scipio Gaetano! — the same, by Andrea del Sarto! — the same, by Gio- ■vanni Beilino — and the same, by Garofalo — Lot and his Daugh- ters, by Gherardo delle Notti — the Madonna, Our Saviour, and S. John, by Andrea del Sarto — a portrait, by Titian — the Ascen- sion, by Federico Zuccari — the Madonna and Our Saviour, by Francesco Frangi- — a small head of Our Saviour, and another of the Madonna, by Carlo Dolci — and a Concert, by Leonello Spada. Palazzo-Sciarra. The second story of this edifice contains a small, but choice, collection of Pictures ; the greater part of which once adorned the Palazzo- Barberini. First room — the Sa- viour bearing his Cross, by the Cav. d’Arpino — S. Barbara, by [eii. VIM, Pietro da Cortona — Noli me tan - gere , by Garofalo ! — the Madonna and Our Saviour, by Giovanni Beilino — a fine copy of the Trans- figuration- — S. Sebastiano, by Pie- tro Perugino! — Our Saviour and the Woman of Sama ia, by Ga- rofalo ! — S. Francesca and an An- gel, by Carlo Yenetiano — Abra- ham’s Sacrifice, by Gherardo delle Notti — Raphael’s Fornarina , by Giulio Romano — a small picture of the Madonna and Our Saviour, by Titian— ditto of the Holy Fa- mily, by Bassano — ditto of the Descent from the Cross, by Bas- sano — a large antique painting, subject unknown. Second room — a small Landscape, by Paul Brill — two Landscapes, by Claude Lorrain ! — two ditto, by Fiamin- go — two of a larger size, by Both ! — Cupid, by the Cav. Landi — two small Landscapes, by Breughel ! — and, between them, a little Claude — a Landscape, by Niccoio Poussin. Third room — the Holy Family, by Francesco Frangi*— Noah intoxicated, by Andrea Sac- chi — the Saviour bound to the column, by Lconella Spada— Cleo- patra, by Lanfranco ! — the De- scent from the Cross, by Baroccio — the Saviour between Angels, by Fiamingo — Sampson, supposed to have been painted either by Caro- selli, or Guercino! ! — Moses, by Guido! ! — Holy Family, by Al- bano ! ! — and Our Saviour, the Madonna, and other Saints, by Albert Durer. Fourth room — Yanity and Modesty, by Leonardo da Yinci! ! ! — Gamblers cheating a Youth, by M. A. Caravaggio ! ! ! — Matrimony, by Agostino Ca- racci — the Magdalene, by Guido ! — S. James, by Guercino — the Death of the virgin, by Albert Durer — the Adoration of the Magi, by Garofalo ! — Titian and his fa- ROME. ROME. 199 site of the Villa of Sallust, of Tivoli. Horace's Villa, and called, by some persons, that of Sabine farm , are three miles dis- Horace; but his Villa was ten tant from the Convent ; but so miles distant. little now remains of the Villa Having passed the site of the that its foundations caftnot easily ’ temple of Hercules, to which Mae- be traced. 1 I cenas’s domain extended, 1 walk- ed through the Garden of the FRASCATI. f Villa d'Este , which contains Wa- I hired, at the latter end of II 1 Travellers usually pay at La Sihilla, at day, three pauls — and donkeys each, three Tivoli, tor dinner, per Head, seven pauls pauls. It is impossible to procure good wine (( — tea, two pauls — breakfast, two pauls — or good water at either ot the inns, l hods, each three pauls — servants each, per u 2 222 ENVIRONS OF ROME — FRASCATI. [ch. ix. April, an open carriage with six places and four horses, paying eight scudi ; and was enabled, by setting out early, to accomplish this excursion with great ease in one day. T welve miles distant from Rome, and near the site of the ancient Tusculum , stands Frascati; and the most interesting objects in the direct road thither (which is a tolerably good one), are the Se- pulchres of Genesius Mareianus, and Lucius Valerius Corvinus. On my way to Frascati I vi- sited Ore tto-Ferra ta ; which lies but little out of the direct road ; and whence to Frascati, about one mile and a half in distance, the drive is delightful. On turn- ing off for Grotto-Ferrata I found the road rough at the commence- ment, but not dangerous; and after proceeding about a quarter of a mile I found it perfectly good. Grotto-Ferrata, usually denomi- nated, the site of Cicero’s Tus- culanum , was, in times past, a celebrated Convent, founded by S.Nilus of the Order of S. Basil, and subsequently fortified with high walls, and gates of iron, from the latter of which its present name is derived. The Church contains a Chapel consecrated to S. Nilus, and adorned, by Dorne- nichino, with beautiful Frescos, uncommonly well preserved. The most celebrated of these Frescos are, S. Nilus praying for rain — Rain descending' — S. Nilus meet- ing the Emperor Otho in.— (In this picturoiDomenichino has re- presented himself, clothed in green, and holding the bridle of the Emperor’s horse ; with Guido leaning on the horse, and Guercino behind Guido). The demoniac Boy, deemed one of the finest pictures existing ! ! ! — Saints Nilus and Bartolomeo praying to the Madonna — and an Architect showing the plan of the Convent to S. Nilus. The altar-piece is by Annibale Caracci — the Saluta- tion, and all the other Frescos on the walls, and in the cupola, are by Domenicliino. An apartment up stairs con- tains part of a Frieze, said to have been found in Cicero’s Villa, and representing a Grecian General speaking to an Officer and a Sol- dier who are bringing a wounded Man into his presence. From Gro tto - F errata , wh ere my carriage waited while I saw the Chapel of S. Nilus, etc., I drove to the Belvedere , at Fras- cati, a handsome Villa? beauti- fully situated, and embellished with water-works. In this Villa, I was permitted to eat a cold dinner which I had brought from Rome ; and here I dismissed my carriage, ordering it to return for me in four hours. After dinner I procured a Cicerone, to show me the way to Tusculum ; and under his guidance took a delightful, and, generally speaking, a shady walk, through the Belvedere-do- main, to the Villa Rufinella (sup- posed, by some antiquaries, to have been the site of Cicero’s Villa), thence proceeding to Tus- culum, where I discovered re- mains of a small Theatre ; a small Amphitheatre, quite perfect, so far as it has been excavated (for, owing perhaps to an earthquake, the arena is buried in vegetable mould) ; Reservoirs for water; re- mains of what appears to have been the ancient Road from the Villa Rnffinella to Tusculum; to- gether with Inscriptions, etc., etc. The distance from the Belvedere to Tusculum is about two miles ajid a half; the accent cowtimiaJ, 223 ch. ix.] ENVIRONS OF ROME-PALESTRINA. but not steep. From Tusculum I walked back to the Belvedere ; thence proceeding, in my carriage, through Frascati to Rome. 1 PALESTRINA. Palestrina, the ancient Prsenes- te, about twenty-five miles distant from Rome, is well worth notice ; both on account of its Cyclopian Walls , and the Temple of For- tune , erected here by Sylla, and afterward repaired and embellish- ed by Adrian; and of which, considerable remains may be traced, though the modem town is built on its foundations. The road to Palestrina is, ge- nerally speaking, ancient pave- ment, remarkably well preserved ; especially the latter part. Speci- mens of Cyclopian Walls 2 present themselves just within the town of Palestrina, and likewise on the ascent leading toward the Citadel. The Temple of Fortune seems to have consisted of two parts ; the lower being called Fortuna Pri- migenia ; and the higher, Fortuna Prcenestina ; and, judging by its remains (the most interesting of which may be traced at the Semi- nario, near the Cathedral), it must have been very large and magnificent. Some parts of the Walls, belonging to the first and second Terrace of this Temple, display specimens, quite perfect, of ancient Roman stone- work, called Opus Incertum ; while other parts resemble the Etruscan walls of Fiesole; and others ex- 1 I gave, lo the Custode of the Villa-Bel- vedere, five pauls lor the use of an apart- ment to dine in, and two pauls tor exhibit- ing the water-works : and to the Cicerone who accompanied me to Tusculum, I gave • four pauls. 2 These Walls, composed of smooth an- gular stones, skilfully joiued together wilh- hibit specimens of reticulated brick- work. There are three Ter- races ; and, under the lowest, magnificent Reservoirs for water. The lower Temple, which stood on the middle Terrace, was em- bellished with a celebrated Mosaic Pavement, supposed by W inck el- man n, to represent the arrival of Menelaus in Egypt. Ruins of an ancient Lighthouse may be dis- covered on the middle Terrace ; and, on the uppermost, is the Palazzo-Barberini, whither the Mosaic Pavement has been remov- ed, and where it may now be seen. On the summit of the hill, above the Temple, was the Citadel of Praeneste, encompassed by Cyclo- pian Walls, still in high preserva- tion, and commanding a very ex- tensive prospect.- In the environs of the modern town are remains of the Villa of Antoninus Pius (where the Braschi-Antinous was found) ; and a picturesque Ruin, called the Temple of Vesta , and probably erected by Adrian; as its shape, in some parts, resembles a known production of his, the Temple (near the Colosseo) dedi- cated to Venus and Rome. A pair of strong horses would take a light calash from Rome to Palestrina in about five hours and a half ; and return in five hours : and the usual price charged by Voiturins for going in this man- ner, is four scudi a day. The Inn at Palestrina contains four small bed-rooms, with toler- ably clean beds ; and likewise fur- out cement, are by some authors attributed to the Pelasgi: but, be this as it may, they are evidenUy the most ancient kind of stoue- work used tor surrounding towns and cita - dels of Italy and Magna Graecia. Why they are called Cyclopian, seems doubtful : per- haps from Xux\so', to surround. 224 ENVIRONS OF ROME— ALBANO. [ch. ix. nishes good wine, pigeons, eggs, coffee, and milk. The Cicerone is very intelligent ; and Travellers who dislike walking may procure donkeys. alba no. The distance from Rome to Al- ban o is fourteen miles ; and the road, generally speaking, excel- lent . 1 Having already given some account of this road, I shall now content myself with saying, that, on the left, just before entering Albano, I passed what is deno- minated the Tomb of Ascanius ; though supposed, by antiquaries, to be that of Clodius. Albano, situated between Cas- tel-Gandolfo and Aricia, stands on the site of Pompey’s Villa, named Albanum Pompeii. Remains of an Amphitheatre , a Reservoir , and a Praetorian Camp, erected, perhaps, by Domitian, may be traced here : but the object best worth notice in this town is a small Museum, belonging to Sig. Guiseppe Carnevali ; which con- sists of sepulchral Monuments, found under a bed of lava in the vicinity of the ancient Alba-Longa. The shape of each of these sepul- chral Monuments is that of a vase ; and within each of the Vases was found a small cinerary Urn of terra-cotta, containing ashes and bones, a^id made (as is conjec- tured) in the precise shape of the huts of the aboriginal inhabitants of the spot . 2 Each cinerary Urn exhibits unknown characters ; and these sepulchral Monuments like- wise have Doors, with curious 1 The best inn at Albano — namely, La Villa di Londra — furnishes good dinners and tolerable beds, at reasonable prices. 2 The Urns are shaped by hand, in- stead of being cast in a mould, like Grecian vases. Fastenings. The cinerary Urn was placed in the centre of each Monument ; and encircled with small terra-cotta Vessels (one to hold the sop for Cerberus, others for the purifying water, wine, oil, bread, incense, etc.) ; a Lamp, like those of pottery used now in cottages ; a Stile passed through a Canceller ; Knives, and a Lance. After seeing this Museum, Tra- vellers, who have three hours to spare, should proceed, through a beautiful and shady path, to the hill which commands the Lago - Castello, or Lake of Albano ; which is the crater of an extinct volcano, nearly six miles in cir- cumference, and famous for par- ticularly large and fine eels. Cas - tel-Gandolfo stands on the top of the hill ; and a beautiful Walk leads down to the Lake, where, in the water, remains may be seen of the ancient Alba-Longa. Here, likewise, is a subterraneous Ca- nal, called the Emissario, one of the most extraordinary works of the ancient Romans, and said to have been made during the siege of Veii, in obedience to the Del- phic Oracle. It measures about one mile and a half in length , and appears quite perfect. Another path, to the left of Castel-Gan- dolfo, leads back to Albano; and the Ilexes which shade this walk are some of the largest in Italy . 3 The Garden of the Villa-Barbe- rini, at Castel -Gandolfo, com- prises the Ruins of Domitian’ s Villa; and on the outside of the Gate of Albano, leading to Aricia, is an ancient Tomb , on the left, 3 Persons who do not choose to walk may hire a donkey for three pauls, including the buona-mano of the man who leads it. The Albano Cicerone expects lour or five pauls; and the Cicerone at the Emissario two, if be find lights. ENVIRONS OF ROME— ALBANO. 225 CH. IX. called that of the Curia tii; though there does not seem to be any ground for this assertion . 1 The air, both at Albano and Aricia (one mile distant), is less oppressive during summer, though perhaps not more salubrious, than that of Rome ; and the country is beautiful : private lodging-houses may be procured at each place ; and a public carriage goes three times a week, during summer, from Rome to Albano ; the fare, for going, being five pauls, and the same for returning. I will now close this Chapter with what seems to me the pre- sent character of the Romans. This people, taken collectively, neither possess the mildness of the Tuscans, nor the good-humoured buffoonery of the Neapolitans. The nobility seldom trouble them- selves to attain deep erudition ; but are polite and very kind to Foreigners. Gentlemen belong- ing to the Church and Law are usually well-informed : it is, how- ever, remarkable, that the most learned of these are not, gene- rally speaking, Romans by birth. Tradesmen of the first class sel- dom impose on foreigners ; but the populace are frequently prone 1 According to some opinions, the pyra- mids upon the top of the monument in ques- tion are allusive io Egypt, and indicate that the edifice was erected in honour of Pompey. to exaction, passionate, and some- times revengeful : they likewise re- tain much of their former haughty character; and the inhabitants of Trastevere, said to descend from the ancient Romans, are not only brave to ferocity, but so proud of their ancestors, that nothing can induce them to match with a per- son who does not boast the same origin. A gentleman told me, he lodged in the house of one of these Tras- teverini, a barber by trade, and wretchedly poor, when his daugh- ter was addressed by a wealthy and respectable German : but, notwithstanding these advantages, the lover received a rude and po- sitive refusal from the mother of the girl. My acquaintance, sur- prised at this behaviour, asked the mother why she acted so im- prudently ? — “ Your daughter (continued he) is wholly unpro- vided for ; surely, then, you ought to rejoice in an opportunity of uniting her to a rich and worthy man.” “ Rejoice in uniting her to a Foreigner — a Barbarian!” (exclaimed the woman). “ No : — and were my daughter capable of cherishing so disgraceful an idea, I should not scruple to plunge a dagger into her heart.” The Curialii had monuments erected to their memory near the Fossae Cleliae, where they CHAPTER X. NAPLES. Country between Rome and Naples— Genzano— Velletri — Cora— Pontine Marshes—' Terracina Fondi—Itri— Cenotaph of Cicero— Mola — Gaela — Minturnum — Garigliano— S. Agata Capua — Naples — Situation of that city — Bay— Ancient Light-houses— Size and population of Naples — Villa-Reale— Studii Publici— Quadrangle— Gallery of ancient Sculpture — Apart- ments up-stairs — Palazzo-Reale — Chiesa di S. Ferdinando — Castel Nuovo — Castello. dell’ Uovo— Chiese di S. Maria del Parto— di S. Brigida— di S. Giovanni de’ Fiorentini— di l’lnco- ronata— della Piela de’ Torchini— di S. Maria Nuova di Monte-Oliveto— di Gesu Nuovo— di S. Chiara— di S. Giovanni Maggiore— del Salvatore— di S. Domenico Maggiore — dello Spi- rito Santo— di S. Maria della Sanita— di S. Giovanni a Carbonara — de’ S. S. Apostoli — Arci- vescovado— Liquefaction of the blood of S. Gennaro— Chiese di S. Filippo Neri— di S. Paolo Maggiore— di S. Maria Maggiore — di S. Pietro a Majella — Cappella di S. Severo — Chiese di S. M. Annunziata — di S. Maria del Carmine — di S. Martino de’ Certosini— Castello di S. Elmo Palazzo-Berio — Albergo de’ Poveri— Theatres — Promenades — Market built by the French —Monument to the memory of Eustace — Water— Climate— Society— Hotels and Lodging- houses— Character of the Neapolitans— List of Objects best worth notice, as they lie con- tiguous to each other. Before I enter upon a descrip- tion of Naples, I will give a short account of the country through which we passed, on our way thither. The road to Albano has been already described ; I shall there- fore say nothing on this subject, but merely observe that Travel- lers, going to Naples, might easily see every thing worth notice at Albano, by making a stop of three hours and a half at the last-named town, which they must necessa- rily pass through on their way. Aricia, one mile distant from Albano (as has been already men- tioned), is beautifully situated on the Via Appia, and contains a handsome Church. Four miles hence is Genzano , pleasantly placed near the Lake of Nemi, in a country which produces good wine. The Festival of Flora, which takes place during the month of June, at Genzano, me- rits notice ; the ground, at this festival, being covered, for a con- siderable extent, with a beautiful mosaic work of flowers ; many of which are gathered several weeks before; and yet so exquisitely preserved as to appear unfaded. In the neighbourhood of Genzano is the site of the ancient Lavinium; and not far distant, on the sea- shore, lies Pratica, the ancient Laurentum , where iEneas is said to have landed when he came to Italy. Six miles from Genzano is Velletri, once a considerable town belonging to the Yolsci, and celebrated for being the country of Augustus, whose family resided here, though it is supposed that he was born at Rome. The Pa- lazzo - Lane ellotti is now con- verted into an inn, 1 2 which con- tains thirty beds, and particularly fine water. a The situation of this 1 The Albergo Reale. fore Travellers usually take a supply from 2 Wholesome water cannot be procured the former town, between Velletri and Terracina; and there- €H. X.] Palazzo marble staircase merits notice; but the Posthouse is a much more comfortable Inn. Nine miles hence, though net in the high road, lies Cora , an ancient town of Latium, which contains ruins of two Temples , the one conse- crated to Hercules, the other to Castor and Pollux : and persons who have leisure would do well to visit them. From Yelletri to Torre de tre Pond , on the Pon- tine Marshes, the country is pretty and on a height, not very distant Irom the road, stands Piperno, anciently Privernum , a Yolscian city. 3 Between Tre Ponti (anciently Tripontium ) and Terracina lie the Pontine Marshes (Palus Pomptina), computed to be about twenty-four miles in length, and varying from six to twelve miles 1X1 brparltli ArininePl«., j* PONTINE MARSHES-TERRACINA. 227 is delightful ; and its foundations of the Via a * ,ta.rcase merits notice; which were Ion* hidd en Api f’ water, a road justly esteeme^ne iS ^h beSt Euro P e ; a >id drain- ing the swamps so judiciously as to render them capable ofbeine cultivated. French Engineers pur! sued the same wise measures ; and Pius vn. is at length putting the finishing stroke to this Herculean labour; which has so essentially purified a tract of country, whose gales informertimes,werefraught with deatn, that but little danger is to be apprehended from travel- ing through ,t now, except during tne prevalence of the do|-star ° I would, nevertheless, advise Travellers m general, and parti- cularly Invalids, neither to pas. the Pontine Marshes within empty stomach, , 10r tl |l afte ,. t j£ rying from six to twefve miles dew whid,™ llP i™ ^™ r ' The breadth. Appms Claudius seems sunset shouldT'k^'^ 6 / P rece,les to have been the first person who and the • h,!ew,se be avoided; undertook to drain them ■ Cethe I 1 1 lncllnatl °n to sleep, which -..-d,C- contin„e C d e te nuouslj resisted. At one of the western extre- mities of the Pontine Marshes is tne mouth of the river Astura ; and, beyond that, Capo d’Anzio, the ancient Annum ; while at the o her western extremity rises Monte Circello, the Headfand of Circaeum, immortalized by Homer Beyond the Marshes, in ? a beam I, 1 slt uation, stands Terracina gus and Ctesar continued the work; which, during the middle ages, was repaired by Cecilius Hecius, at the command of Theo- doric. Boniface vm. was the first Pope who began to drain these noxious swamps. Martin v. , before his accession to the ponti- fical Chair, was employed to carry on the business; and succeeded b l makin g a Canal, called Bio-Martino. The Princes of the House of Medicis, and, after them, Sixtus v„ made new lariv “ wlll f but the Greeks after- benevolent work ; for^g on he whence & comes the modern name of Ter- Sermo^eUa e (tL a sSot t acr ad H fr0n ? VcUctri to t nions, called by P s. Pau^^^T® ° pi " Case-Nuove, Piperno vt }-.?■ 5 . raberna ')i 2 however, it might b e nossihl« j- , perhaps, than at Mesa I),- 1° .osed to have been formed from the Genius of Rome— and ditto of )ne solid block of marble, by Urania : and the Staircase is Ypollonius and Tauriscus, about adorned with a Lion in Carrara wo hundred years before the marble, and two statues in Greek Christian aera. This group was marble, taken from Herculaneum, bund, cruelly mutilated, in Cara- Surrounding the Quadrangle are •alla’s Baths, and restored by the Academies of Sculpture, lattista Bianchi of Milan. The Painting, and Architecture, and lead of the bull, and the upper the apartments appropriated to •art of the figure of Dirce, are antique Statues, etc. nodern : the trunks alone of the First division of the Gallery igures of Amphion and Zethus of ancient Sculpture. No. 14, a one leg excepted) are antique ; lustral Basin from Herculaneum >ut the statues of Antiope, and — 15, bust of Ptoleiny-Soter — 16, are nearly a Warrior seated— IS, a Gladiator! — 20, equestrian statue of a Ro- Among other objects of interest man Warrior — 22 a Sportsman t Naples are the following. —24, Pyrrhus, from Herculaneum Studii Publici. This Univer- — 26, group of two Men cutting 1 According to some opinions, Amnhion of Antiope, their mother, to seize the hull, d Zethus were represented by the Rho- ant * set Dirce free. NAPLES. 232 [CH. X. up a Pig— 27, bust of a Female- 28, an Amazon on horseback — 30, a wounded Gladiator ! — 32, a Wrestler, from Herculaneum— 34, a Wrestler, restored as a Gladi- ator!! — 35, a Gladiator— 36, an- other Wrestler, restored as a Gla- diator— 37, a Gladiator! — 38, bust of Gallienus! — 39, Jove, i n terra- cotta , from Pompeii !— 42, a young Roman Lady, from Herculaneum — 44, Marcus Nonius Balbus, Proconsul and Patron of Hercu- laneum— 45, a dead Amazon — 47, a Daughter of M. N. Balbus, from Herculaneum ! — 49, the Mother of Balbus, from Herculaneum- 52, another of the Balbi-family ! — and 54, M. N. Balbus, both from Herculaneum — 56, a Bust ! — 57, a young Lady, probably one of the Balbi-family, from Hercu- laneum — 58, bust of a Philoso- pher— 59, Juno, in terra-cotta , from Pompeii ! Second division of the Gallery . 62, equestrian statue of Marcus Nonius Balbus, jun., in Greek marble, from Herculaneum ! ! ! ! — 63, ditto of Marcus Nonius Bal- bus, sen., likewise taken from Herculaneum ; but, being found in a mutilated state, it has been restored!!! — 67, group of Apollo with a Swan !! — 68, small statue of Jupiter-Serapis, found in his temple at Pozzuoli ! — 70, group of Ganymedes and the Eagle! — 77, bust of the Indian Bacchus — 79, ditto, from Herculaneum- — 81 , small statue of a Priestess, from Herculaneum — 82, Minerva — 83, small statue of a Priestess of Diana, from Herculaneum — 84, bust of Minerva ! — 86, Ceres — 87, bust of Minerva, from Herculaneum — 92, 1 Agrippina seems to he represented at the moment when told that her unnatural son dooms her to death. The mild, pathetic, deep despair, expressed throughout the whole Apollino, from ditto— 94 , small sta- tue of iEsculapius — 96, group of Bacchus and Cupid!! -97, the cele- brated colossal Hercules of Gly- con, found at Rome, in Caracalla’s Baths, anddemedone of the finest statues extant ; it represents Her- cules previous to his deification ! ! ! — 98, group of Yenus victorious and Cupid, from ancient Capua! — 99, bust of Cybele, from Hercula- neum — 100, Juno — 101, bust of Minerva, from Herculaneum— 102, Minerva, a fine Etruscan work, from Herculaneum ! ! — 103, group of Faunus and the Infant Bac- chus!! — 107, bust of the Indian Bacchus— 109, bust of Jove — 1 10, Diana-Lucifera — 118, Minerva ! ! — 120, Bacchus — 122, Euterpe. Third division of the Gallery . 123, a lustral Basin, found in the Temple of Isis, at Pompeii ! — 124, Agrippina, the mother of Ne- ro, seated!!! 1 — 125, another lus- tral Basin, found in the Temple of Isis, at Pompeii !— 127, bust of Nerva — 128, ditto of Antoninus Pius — 130, Trajan, sen. — 131, bust of Septimius Severus— 132, Antonio the younger— 133, bust of Galba — 134, colossal bust of Titus! — 138, Trajan’s Sister- 139, bust of Tiberius — 142, colos- sal bust of Antoninus Pius! — 144,Lucilla — 148, Tiberius — 149, a Bust! — 150, bust of Caracalla • — 151, -Tiberius — 153, colossal statue of Claudius seated, from Herculaneum!— 155, Trajan, from Minturnum !!— 156, bust of Lu- cius Yerus — 157, Statue of ditto! — 159, Caligula, from Minturnum! — 161, a magnificent porphyry Basin, supposed to have been used as the lustral Yase in a Temple, of ihis charming statue, proves that Sculpture, when carried to its utmost height of excel- lence, can move the passions even more than does the finest poelry. ch. x.l NAPLES. 233 dedicated to TEscuIapius — 162, colossal bust of Caesar! — 163, sta- tue of ditto — 164, bust of Marcus Aurelius — 165, statue of ditto ! — 166, bust of Adrian— 167, Lucius Verus! — 169, colossal statue of Augustus, seated, from Hercula- neum ! — 170, bust of Caracalla! —172, bust of Adrian ! The open Court, adjoining to the Gallery of ancient Sculpture, contains various Antiquities : a- mong which are several statues found in Herculaneum ; Corn- mills of lava, which were brought from Pompeii ; a Machine for bruising olives, in order to make oil (also of lava, and brought from Pompeii), together with Diotae of creta-cotta and terra- cotta. Hall of Flora. No. 200, co- lossal statue of Flora, found in Caracalla’s Baths at Rome ! ! ! ! (According to some opinions this chef-d' oeuvre of the Grecian chi- sel does not represent Flora, but Hope, or one of the Muses.) — • 20f, the Torso Farnese , attri- buted to Phidias, and supposed to have represented Bacchus ! ! ! —202, a Basso-rilievo represent- ing Bacchus intoxicated! — 203, Fragment, from ancient Capua, supposed to have been a Psyche ; and attributed to Praxiteles ! ! ! — 206, a Basso-rilievo representing Orpheus, Eurydice,and Mercury; and supposed to be very ancient Grecian sculpture — 207, a Basso- rilievo from Herculaneum ! — 208, Bassi-rilievi, one of which repre- sents Scylla, the famous Promon- tory of Calabria — 209, Torso of a Boy ! — -210, a Basso-rilievo re- presenting Helen, Venus, Cupid, Paris, etc. ! Hall of Apollo. No. 212, a co- lossal porphyry statue of Apollo in his theatrical dress! — 314, Isis —218, a Phrygian Slave— 222, Apollo — 225, a Phrygian Slave — 228, a Goat, in rosso antico, from Pompeii — 229, bust of Marcus Aurelius ! — 230, Ceres — 231 , bust of Annius Verus — 235, Diana of Ephesus, in oriental alabaster and bronze ! — 238, a small Egyptian statue of Isis in basalt, from Pom- eii— 243, an Egyptian Priest, in asalt ! — 247 and 248, another Basin, with its Stand, from Pom- peii— 251, bust of L. Junius Bru- tus, from Herculaneum — 252, small statue of Meleager, in rosso antico ! Hall of the Muses. No. 256, a large and beautiful Vase of Greek marble, adorned with bassi-rilievi relative to the education of Bac- chus, and according to the in- scription it bears, executed by Salpion, an Athenian sculptor — 260, Clio, from Herculaneum- 261, small statue in terra-cotta , representing an Actor masked, and dressed for the stage, from Pompeii ! — 262, Terpsichore, from Herculaneum 1—263. Mne- mosyne, from ditto ! — 264, Apol- lo seated — 265, Minerva! — 266, Melpomene, from Herculaneum ! — 267, small statue, in terra- cotta , of an Actress, masked and dressed for the stage, from Pom- peii ! — 268, Erato, from Hercu- laneum— 273, Urania, from ditto ! — 275, Basso-rilievo, represent- ing seven female Figures, from Herculaneum — 276, Calliope ! — 277, Euterpe ! — and 281, Thalia ; all three from Herculaneum — 282, a small statue of Apollo, from Pompeii ! — 283, Rilievo, re- presenting four Figures ! ! — 2S4, Polyhymnia ! Hall of the Venuses. No. 287, Adonis! — 288, Venus, attributed to Praxiteles, and called “ Venere Ctfllipiga the rival of the Venus NAPLES. 234 [cri. 2. de’ Medici: there is, however, an unpleasant expression in the coun- tenance of the former, from which the latter is exempt ! ! ! — 289, sta- tue called “ Venere gene trice ! ! ” — 295, Cupid, supposed to he an ancient copy of the celebrated Cu- pid of Praxiteles- — 296, Statue called “ Venere accovacciata ! ” •—299, the marine Venus !— 304, a small statue of Venus seated, from Pompeii! — 307, Bacchus, in the character of an Hermaphro- dite ! Hall of Hercules. No. 31 1 , a Herma, from Herculaneum— 312, herma, of Euripides, from ditto- 314, bust of Marius — 318, Jupi- ler-Stator seated, from Cum a ! — 323, bust of Marcus Brutus — 324, herma, representing Homer — 325, herma of Socrates ! Hall of Atlas. No. 326, Atlas supporting the celestial globe — 327 and 328, lustral Basins, from Pompeii! — 331, bust of Antis- thenes ! — 332, Homer, from Her- culaneum— 333, bust of TEschines, from ditto !— 334, bust of Perian- der, from ditto— 335, bust of So- crates — 336, bust of Euripides — 337, bust of Lycurgus — 338, Sylla, from Herculaneum — 340, bust of Solon — 342, bust of Zeno, from Herculaneum— 343, bust of Anacreon — 344, a Philosopher, from Herculaneum!! — 345, bust of Demosthenes, from ditto —350, bust of Zeno — 351, statue sup- posed to represent Niobe — 352, bust of Herodotus — 353, bust of Lysias — 354, same subject ! — 355, bust of Euripides — 356, bust of Sophocles — 357, small statue of Cicero, from Hercula- neum — 358, bust of Carneades ! — 359, bust of Plato, from Her- culaneum— 360, bust of Posido- nius ! ! — 363, Aristides, found in Herculaneum, and deemed one of the choicest master-pieces of the Grecian chisel ! ! ! ! — 364, bust of Socrates, from Herculaneum. Hall of Antinous. No. 367, An- tinous ! — 368, Vase, from Hercu- laneum — 370 and 371, Cande- labra — 372, herma of Herodotus and Thucydides — 373, a large Vase— 377, a Consul, from Pom- peii — 378, bust of a Vestal ! — 381 , a Bust ! — 382, bust supposed to represent the Indian Bacchus ! —383, bust of Seneca— 385, bust of Cicero, from Herculaneum — * 386, statue of Plenty, from Pom- peii — 387, bust of Claudius Mar- cellus — 388, bust of Juba — -389, bust of a laughing Faun — 391, ditto ! — 392, bust of a Philoso- pher!— 393, bust of Vespasian — 394, colossal bust of a young Her- cules— 399, ditto of Alexander ! — 400, group of Electra and Orestes, from Herculaneum — 401, colos- sal bust of Juno ! —406, dilto ! — • 412, bust of L. C. Lentulus — 413, bust of Agrippina the elder — 415, bust of a Female — 417, bust, supposed to represent Te- rence, from Herculaneum — 418, bust of Plato, from ditto — 422, bust of Varro — 423, a Sibyl! — 424, bust of Homer ! Cabinet. No. 427, Hermaph- rodite-Faun ! ! — 428, group of a Love and a Dolphin — 429, small statue of Diana, from Hercula- neum ! — 432, small statue of Bac- chus, found in the Temple of Isis at Pompeii — 433, Venus, from ditto — 434, small statue of Isis, from ditto — 442, small statue of a Faun, from Pompeii ■ — 444, small statue of Silenus seated, from Herculaneum ! —454, bust of a Lady, from Pompeii — 456, bust of a Faun, from ditto — 459, bust of a Lady, from Hercula- neum — 465, small statue of a Faun, from ditto — 467. small gh. x.l NAPLES. 235 statue of a Philosopher seated — 473, small statue of a Youth, from Herculaneum — 475, small statue of a Female. The Gallery of ancient Sculps ture likewise contains columns of precious marbles, found in Her- culaneum, Pompeii, and other parts of Magna-Grsecia. Apartment on the ground- floor, containing Egyptian Anti - quiti'es. Among the most inter- esting things in this collection are, the statue of Isis, found in her Temple at Pompeii — an Isiac Table, and two Salvers on stands, also found there — a small statue I of Pluto, found in the Temple of Serapis at Pozzuoli — beautiful 1 small vases, Lachrymatories, and Incense-bottles — a Wine-cup — Egyptian Divinities and Mummies. Apartment on the ground- floor containing bronze Statues and Busts , chiefly found in He culaneum. Beft side. Statue of Mammius Maximus — statue of an Infant Hercules ! — bust of Ptole- my-Apion! — statue of M. Cala- torius -- bust of Seneca — half- length statue of Diana, from Pom- peii — bust of a young Hercules — statue of Augustus .'—small group of a Faun and a Youth, from Pompeii. (The eyes in both these statues are of silver ; and the stand, which supports them, is beautifully j inlaid with the same metal.) Re- j cess. Head of Virgil’s Horse, and j several small Bronzes ; among which is a group supposed to re- ' present Alexander and Bucepha- lus ! Left side continued. Small statue, from Pompeii, of Apollo, vvith silver eyes — statue of Clau- dius Drusus — bust of Archytas — statue of a Satyr ! — bust, called Plato! — statue of Nero Drusus — busts of Lucius Ccesar, Sappho, and Scipio Africanus — statue, called Antonia. Right side. Bust of Anlinous in the character of Bacchus — busts of Commodus, Sylla, Caracalla, Plolemy-Alex- ander, Augustus, Democritus, Ptolemy-Philadelphus, and Ptole- my-Soter — statue of a Discobolus 1 —statue of Piety— statue of a Discobolus ! — busts of Berenice, Heraclitus, Tiberius, Livia, and Lepidus — statue of an Actress— busts of Caius Caesar, Ptolemy- Philometor, and Annius Verus. Centre of the Apartment. Sta-*- tues of two Deer — statue of a drunken Faun reposing on a skin of wine !— statue of a horse, sup- posed to have adorned the The- atre at Herculaneum!— statue of Mercury seated ! ! — statue of Apol- lo, from Pompeii. Another Apartment , usually locked up, though always opened when Travellers wish to see it, contains a beautiful little statue of Bacchus, found in Pompeii; a small Etruscan Diana, with a co- loured border to her robe, found in Herculaneum ; and a small Ve- nus, lately found in Pompeii. Apartment up stairs. On the landing-place there are three doors ; that on the left leads to the rooms where the Papyri, brought from Herculaneum, are unrolled. Though all these scrolls are so much scorched as to resemble tin- der, yet some of them (aboutfour hundred) have, by a most tedious process, been opened ; and about ninety were found in a legible state. Among these are, frag- ments of a Latin poem, relative to the war between Anthony and Octavius — Epicurus upon Nature — a work by Polystratus — frag- ments of a work by Colotes — Philo- demus upon Music and Rhetoric- and works which bear the namps ofDemelrius, Carniscus, Qlhrysip- 236 NAPLES. pus, etc. The number of scrolls brought to the Museum is said to amount to about seventeen hun- dred; but, of those not yet ope- rated upon, about one hundred only seem sufficiently perfect to be capable of expansion. Thirty- nine years after the discovery of Herculaneum a considerable num- ber of scrolls of Papyrus, owing to an excavation made in a garden at Resina, were discovered in a bouse supposed to have belonged to Lucius Piso. The micldle-cloor leads to the Library, which contains nearly an hundred andfifty thousand printed volumes, including several of the fifteenth century ; and a large col- lection of precious manuscripts ; among which are those of S. Tho- mas Aquinas, and the Aminta of Tasso. Here likewise is the Uffizio of the Madonna, illuminated by Giulio Clovio, bound in gold, and decorated with bassi-rilievi , and another book, called the Flora! which likewise contains chefs- d'oeuvre in miniature painting ! Antiquities found in Hercula- neum , Pompeii , Stabice, Capri , etc. First room . Cabinet of Gems. Here are Necklaces, Ear- rings, Brooches, and Gold orna- ments of almost every description. Camei and Intagli, among which is the celebrated Cameo, said to be the most precious work of its kind in existence ; and represent- ing the Apotheosis of the first Ptolemy on one side, and the head of Medusa on the other- — two an- cient Mosaics, one of which ex- hibits a tympanum , or tambarine, like those now used at Naples — fell. x. four monochromatic Paintings on marble — a beautiful flying figure of Victory, and several other Paintings, from Herculaneum and Pompeii — a collection of ancient Colours, used in fresco-painting — two Loaves — a Honey-comb — Fruits — Grain — and other Eat- ables, all burnt to cinders. Se- cond room. Ancient Glass. Good Glass for windows — vases of va- rious shapes — Rummers, not un- like those in present use — small Dishes, some of which arepainted • — Incense-bottles, supposed to have been Lachrymatories, till lately found with odoriferous gums remaining in them — large Bottles for medicines, found in an apo- thecary’s shop at Pompeii ,etc . ,etc. A glass Vessel, not yet (I believe) placed in this room, contains Rouge, similar to that worn at present. Third room. Kitchen- Furniture, consisting of Bronze Utensils, many of them lined and inlaid with Silver — marble Mor- tars — a Gridiron — a variety of ele- gantly shaped bronze Moulds for pastry — a portable bronze Stove — Boilers — Ste wing-pans — Fry- ing-pans, etc. Fourth room. Scales and Weights ; 1 the latter elegantly ornamented — a great variety of Lamps — a Lantern, glazed with horn instead of glass — Candelabra ; some of which are particularly elegant — beautiful Steelyards — and a Basin of bronze inlaid with silver. Fifth room y Sacrificial Yases — a Wine-cup, shaped like a horse’s head — sacri- ficial Knives — a Brush, supposed to have been used in sprinkling the purifying water , 1 and like 1 The pound weight of Magna Gracia appears to have been like the present pound weight of Naples, hetween ten and eleven ounces : and the ancient steelyards, if I may so call balances made of bronze, resemble those now used at Naples in shape, though far superior in beauty. 2 Every ancient Temple contained a vase filled w ith purifying water, and placed, it is supposed, near the entrance : and with this water every person who came .to solemn sa- crifices was sprinkled. CH. X.] what Roman Catholic priests now use for a similar purpose — two Couches for the gods, exhibited at festivals called Lectisternia, and composed of bronze inlaid with silver ! — a bronze Altar— two Chairs for the Priests — bronze Tripods ; one of which is particu- larly elegant — Y essels for incense — a variety of other Yessels used in heathen temples ; and a beau- tiful Yase lately found at Pompeii. Sixth room. Right side. Seve- ral pieces of furniture employed in ancient Baths; among which are Scrapers for the skin, and ele- gant Essence-bottles— a child’s toy, representing a Carriage — ancient Greek Armour — two Bells , for marking time — and another toy representing a Car. Seventh room, J Right side. Inkstands, with remains of ink— Styles— Pens of cedar — -a Case for Styles — Ta- blets — Letters for stamping bread; which letters appear to have been used in a manner so like printing, that one wonders such an inven- tion should have escaped the An- cients — Mirrors of metal — chirur- gical Instruments, but no lancets — Opera-tickets for the boxes and benches ; the latter tickets being numbered to correspond with the numbers of the seats at the theatres — musical Instruments; namely, the Sistrum, Cymbal, etc.— Bells for cattle, precisely like those used 1 The Mirrors, Combs, Rouge, and other personal ornaments belonging to this collec- tion, were found in the tombs of females; the Arms,. Armour, Papyri, and Styles, in the tombs of men; the Toys in the tombs of children (I saw Tops and a jointed Doll, found in a tomb); arid Kitchen -furniture was found in every lomb, as were Vases for wine, oil, etc. : so that, by examining the abodes of the Dead, we have been taught the domestic economy of the Living who inha- bited this earlb from two to three thousand years ago. Dice,, likewise, are continually found in ancient tombs. 2 This distinction, however, could not have subsisted in very remote ages, w hen pottery- 237 at the present day — Dice — House- hold-gods — an elegant portable Stove— bronze Door-cases — Nails — Screws — Locks — Keys — - Latches — Bolts— Hinges, etc.— The two last-named rooms like- wise contain Bridles — Stirrups — a Mosaic Table with beautiful Feet, from Pompeii — Rings — Necklaces — Ear-rings — Bracelets - — Pins for the hair — ornaments called Bullce , worn by young Pa- tricians till they were allowed to as- sume the Toga — Silver Cups, Sau- cers, and Spoons ; but no Forks . 1 Apartments containing sepul- chral Grecian Vases , etc. The Pavements of these rooms were taken from Herculaneum, Pom- E eii, Stabile, etc. ; and areparticu- irly beautiful. The collection of Yases is highly interesting. Those found in the tombs of the Rich are light-coloured, and exhibit paintings which usually represent mythologicalsubjects : those found in the tombs of the Poor are dark- coloured, and quite plain . 2 The first room contains a Table from Pompeii with beautiful Feet; and a Yase, the painting on which represents Orestes tormented by the Furies. Some of the most interesting paintings on the Yases in the second room are, the Se- pulchre of Agamemnon — Hercules stealing the Tripod of Apollo — and an ancient Repast . A Widow appears to have been made of materials black as jet, and beautifully polished, — but not adorned with paintings. In a tomb, thirty feet under ground, at S. AgneHo, a village situated in the Piano di Sorrento, a skeleton was lately discovered of a warrior, cased in armour, and supposed to have been one of the Phoenicians who colonised there. The armour is of a kind which announces no common person: but, nevertheless, the ske- leton was surrounded with plain black vases, and iucense-bottles of plain red pottery. This tomb likewise contained a lachrymatory of Oriental alabaster, and apparently of Egyp- tian workmanship. NAPLES. 233 NAPLES. [CH. X. bewailing the death of her hus- band is likewise a common subject on these urns. The Yases in the third room exhibit paintings of Hercules killing the Centaur — an Egyptian Ceremony, etc. The fourth room contains models, in cork, representing the inside of two ancient Sepulchres; one of which exhibits a corse in the cen- tre (with a piece of money in its mouth, and an incense-bottle on its breast 1 ) surrounded by lamps, vases for the purifying water, oil, wine, incense, etc. ; and a dish for Cerberus’s sop. The other, which is the precise representation of the inside of a Tomb found at Pses- tum, contains a painting (the sub- ject of which is a Combat) J four vases, a dish for Cerberus’s sop* and the corse placed in the centre, with arms and armour by its side. This room likewise contains the model of an ancient public Ceme- tery at Naples. In the Jiftli room are several Yases embellished with paintings, which appear to repre- sent Widows sacrificing ; and two others, on the first of which is the story of Cadmus; and on the se- cond the tomb of Agamemnon ; Electra and Orestes being on one side, near the tomb ; and on the reverse side iEgisthus and Cly- temnsestra in the act of marrying. The subjects of some of the paint- ings on the Yases in the sixth room are, Hercules slaying the Sicilian King; with a beautiful ancient car on the reverse side of the Yase — Achilles dragging Hector round the walls of Troy — the Olympic games — the same subject repeated 1 It is not uncommon to find the' breast of a corse surrounded by six or eight in- cense-bottles. 2 The earthen Vases of the Ancients were not consecrated to the Dead alone, but fre- quently used in sacrifices (especially those made to Vesta) ; and likewise given, in very early ages, as prizes to the victors at Grecian * — an ancient Repast, particularly curious, because it exhibits the manner in which the Ancients drank Hercules in the garden of the Hesperides, with a tree, and a serpent twined round it, very much like the modern representa- tion of the Garden of Eden — Pe- nelope in a car, and the gods look- ing down upon her; together with a painting of PulcineUa 3 dressed as he now dresses on the Neapo- litan Stage, except that instead of a half-mask, he has one which en- tirely covers his face. Here like- wise are two ancient drinking cups ; together with a small, but extremely beautiful Vase, on which is written, “The Lucretia.” In the seventh roGm are several par- ticularly fine Yases, brought from Nola . 2 Apartments containing Easel - Pictures . 3 Among the most ad- mired paintings in these rooms are, the Magdalene! — a portrait of Paul hi. — another picture re- presenting Paul m., etc., but un- finished- — Danae!! — and a portrait of Philip ii., all by Titian. A GuardianAngel protecting aChild, by Domenichino ! — the Magda- lene, by Guercino! — S. Peter, by ditto. — A Pieta! — Rinaldo and Armida — Hercules between Vice and Virtue — Venus, a Faun, etc. all by Annibale Caracci. A Pieta, by Agostino Caracci! — The Sa- viour dead! — an Ecce Homo! — the Marriage of S. Catherine — the Madonna and our Saviour with a Rabbit! — two colossal Paintings — and two small pictures (one a Holy Family, the other a Ma- festivals. Earlhen vases filled with oil were bestowed on the conquerors at the Panathe- haea; and probably this sort of ware served also for domestic purposes. 3 One of these rooms contains excellent Models, in cork, of the Temples, Basilica, etc. at Psestum ; and likewise of other ancient edifices in Magna Grascia. NAPLES. 23 'j CH. X.] donna and Child), all by Correg- gio. Portrait of the Mother of Raphael— portrait of a Fencing Master ! — the Holy Family — Leo x. between Cardinals Passe- rini and Bembo! — the Madonna and the Saviour — the Madonna, the Saviour, Elizabeth, and S. John ! ! all by Raphael. The adoration of the Magi, by Andrea da Salerno — Copy of the Madon- na della seggiola , by Giulio R.o- mano — portrait of Giulio Glovio, by himself — Alexander vi., by Sebastiano del Piombo — Holy Fa- mily, by ditto — Holy Family, by Andrea r del Sarto — Bramante, and the Duke of Urbino, by ditto — the Assumption, by Fra Barto- lomeo — the Madonna and our Sa- viour, by Leonardo da Yinci— S. John, by ditto! ! — a large Land- scape, by Claude!! — an Angel, by Schidonel — Charity, by ditto!! — a Head, by Vandyck— Lucre- tia — Yespucio — Columbus — and two laughing Children, all by Par- megianino.—The last Judgment, designed by Buonaroti, and co- loured by one of his Scholars — two Heads, by Rembrandt — the Fall of Simon Magus, by Lodovico Caracci — and the Crucifixion, by Marco da Siena. The Museo-Borbonico is usually open to the public every day, fes- tivals excepted, from eight in the morning till two in the after- noon ; and Foreigners usually give, to each Custode, from two to six carlini, according to the size of the party he attends, and the trouble he takes in explaining 1 Persons who purchase FinatPs excel- lent account of the Gallery of Sculpture are not expected to give any fee below stairs, except two carlini to the Custode of the rooms which contain the Egyptian Antiqui- ties and the Bronzes : and Travellers who wish to dive deep into the Antiquities of Magna Graecia should endeavour to obtain an introduction to the Canonico Don Andrea di Jorio, who is not only a distinguished an- things: Foreigners, however, are not expected to repeat these fees every time they visit the Mu- seum . 1 # Palazzo-Reale . 2 This edifice, erected by the Count de Lemos, according to the designs of the Cav. Fontana, to whose taste it does honour, contains magnifi- cent apartments handsomely fur- nished, and enriched with fine pictures ; namely, Tobias, his Son, and the Angel, by Guercino —Susanna in the Bath, by Lodo- vico Caracci — the Descent from the Cross, by Daniello daVolterra ! — the same subject, by Annibale Caracci— Atlas, by Guido — Cha- rity, by ditto— Cupid and Psyche, by Gherardo delle Notti — Cha- rity, by Schidone — an Ecce Ho- mo , by Correggio — the Madonna of Monte-Casino, by Raphael — and S. Peter and S. Paul, by ditto. This palace likewise con- tains a Hall hung round with por- traits of the Yiceroys of Naples, by Massimo and Paolo Matteis ; and a handsome Chapel, with an Altar of agate, lapis lazuli, and other precious marbles. The Re- sidence of Prince Leopoldo* which is nearly opposite to the Palazzo- Reale, contains the finest Collec- tion of Pictures in Naples. Chiesa di S. Ferdinando. This church is richly adorned with marbles : and the Ceiling of the Nave, the Cupola, and its Andes, are embellished with the best frescos of Paolo Matteis. The Statues of David and Moses, in one of the Chapels, are by Yac- tiquary, but likewise a most gentlemanly and agreeable companion. 2 It is necessary to have au order for see- ing the Palazzo-Reale at Naples, and the other Regal residences. These orders must he signed by the Lord High Steward; and Foreigners who apply for them pay one piastre. None of the Regal residences, how- ever, are worth seeing, except the Palace at Naples, and that at Caserta. 240 .■NAPLES. caro ; and the Picture which a- dorns the High-Altar is by Soli- mena. Castel Nuovo. This fortress, begun in 1283, according to the designs of Giovanni Pisano, but not completed till 1546, contains the Arsenal, and a triumphal Arch, erected in honour of Al- phonso of Arragon. Castella delP l/ovo. This was once a Yilla belonging to Lucul- lus ; but an earthquake separated it from the main land; and Wil- liam i. second King of Naples, built a palace here. It derives its .name from its shape. Chiesa di S. Maria del Parto. The ground on which this edifice .stands was given by Frederic n. of Aragon, to his Secretary, San- nazaro : and behind the high-altar is the Tomb of that great Poet, by Poggibonzi, one of Buonaroti’s scholars. The ornaments are too numerous, but the composition is good, and the Bassi-rilievi, allu- sive to the Piscatory Eclogues, and other writings of Sannazaro, are finely executed. On the sides of the Monument are statues of Apollo and Minerva, now called David and Judith ; and on the top is the bust of Sannazaro, with his Arcadian name, Actius Sin- cerus , placed between two weep- ing Genii. The inscription, “ Da sacrp cineri f lores. Hie ille Mnroni Sincerus musd proximus ut tumulo is by Cardinal Bembo. Chiesa di S. Brigida. Here is the Tomb of Giordano, and a Cupola painted by that distin- guished artist. Chiesa di S. Giovanni de' Fio- rentini. This edifice, built by a. scholar of Buonaroti’s, is said to be a fine specimen of architecture. Chiesa di llncoronata. Here are remains of Paintings by Giotto. [CH. X. Chiesa della Pield de ' Tor- chini. This church is adorned with a fine Altar-Piece, by Soli- mena, and a beautiful Painting -in the Lantern of its Cupola, by Giordano ! Chiesa di S. Maria Nuova. Here are good paintings, by Mar- co di Siena. Chiesa di Mon te- Oliveto . Here are curious statues, in cretta - cotta , by Modanino di Modena, representing illustrious characters of the fifteenth century : and that called Joseph of Arimathea is, in fact, the portrait of Sannazaro. This church also contains a pic- ture of the Purification, by Vas- sari (who likewise painted the Sacristy), an Assumption, by Pinturicchio,; and one of the best urgans in Italy. Chiesa di Gesii Nuovo , or Tri- nita Maggiore . T his churc h , one of the finest in Naples, was built according to the designs of No- vello di S. Lucan o : it has suffered considerably from earthquakes ; by one of which the Cupola, painted by Lanfranco, was de- stroyed, the four Evangelists ex- Gepted. The other Paintings in the present Cupola are by Paolo Matteis. Over the great door is a large Fresco, by Solimena, re- presenting Heliodorus driven out of the Temple ! The Chapel of the Madonna was likewise painted by Solimena. The Chapel of S. Ig- nazio is adorned with fine mar- bles, and the whole edifice in- crusted and paved with the same. The Chapel of the Trinity con- tains a Picture by Guercino. Chiesa di S. Chiara. This was originally a Gothic structure, commenced in 1310, according to the designs of Masuccio, who likewise built the Campa- nile, which, though not com- cs. x.1 NAPLES. 241 I pleted as he purposed, is much admired in point of architecture. The interior of the church was adorned with paintings by Gi- otto, till the Regent, Bario Nuovo, not understanding their merit, ordered them to be covered with white -wash. During the year 1744, Vaccaro modernized the nave, which was, at the same time, beautifully paved with rare marbles, and embellished with a Ceiling, painted by Sebastiano Conca and Francesco Mura : that part which represents S. Chiara putting the Saracens to flight, is by the last-named artist, and a work of great merit : he likewise painted the picture that adorns the High-Altar, near which are two fluted Columns ; and, ac- cording to tradition, that on the left was brought from Solomon’s Temple. One of the Chapels contains a Picture by Lanfranco ; and, in another, some Paintings by Giotto are still remaining. The Bassi - rilievi over the great door deserve attention. 1 Chiesa di S. Giovanni Mag - giore. This edifice is built upon the ruins of a Temple which was erected by Adrian to his F avourite, Antinous. It was consecrated by Constantine and S. Helena to S. John Baptist ; and, in conse- quence of its great antiquity, a Tomb which it contains has been dignified with the appellation of Parthenope’s Sarcophagus. Chiesa del Salvatore, or Gesii Vecchio . Here are Paintings by Marco di Siena, Francesco Mura, Soiimena, etc. Chiesa di S. Domenico Mag- 1 This church likewise contains an ele- gant Latin Epitaph, in memory of a young Lady who expired on the day destined for I her nuptials. 2 No invalid should attempt to visit these giore. This church contains an Annunciation, attributed to Ti- tian ; and a Flagellation, attri- buted to M. A . Caravaggio. The Ceiling of the Sacristy is adorned with a painting of S. Domenico in glory, by Soiimena ! The Con- vent belonging to this church for- merly comprised the University ; whose Professors taught their Scholars in vaults underground. Chiesa dello Spirito Santo. This is a fine edifice in point of architecture, and contains a paint- ing, by Giordano, of the Madonna presenting a rosary to S. Dome- nico. Chiesa di S. Maria della Sa~ nita. Here are good Pictures, by Giordano, Bernardino Siciliano, Andrea Yaccaro, and Agoslino Beltrano. This Church leads to the Catacombs ; as likewise do the Churches of S. Severo, and S. Gennaro de’ Poveri. The Cata- combs of Naples are said to be much larger than those of Rome : it is not easy, however, to ascer- tain this ; it being impossible to penetrate far into them. The ge- neral opinion seems to be, that they were, like the Roman Catr- combs, public burial-places, form- ed originally by excavations made in search of pozzolana. 2 Chiesa di S . Giovanni a Car- honara. This church merits no- tice on account of containing a Gothic Tomb, immensely large, of Ladislaus, King of Naples ; an- other of Giovanni Caracciolo, and some fine Sculpture in the Yico- Chapel. Chiesa de.S. S. Apostoli. This church, erected on the site of a Temple of Mercury, and conse- subterraneous repositories, the investigation of which cannot he wholesome even for per- sons in health, — all the unhappy sufferers during the last Plague having been thrown in here. 242 NAPLES. [CH. X. crated to the Apostles, by Con- 1299; but, being destroyed by an stantine, was rebuilt during the earthquake, it was rebuilt by Al- seventeenth century, and adorned phonso i. The outside is incrusted with particularly fine Frescos, with white marble and ornamented The Ceiling of the great Nave, with two columns of porphyry, and Choir, the five Pictures on the The inside is not splendid ; though walls of the latter, and the Angles supported by nearly a hundred of the Cupola, are by Lanfranco ! columns of Egyptian granite, Afri- as likewise are the Ceilings of the can marble, etc., taken from the small Chapels, and the large and Temples of Neptune and Apollo, beautiful Fresco over the great The Font, placed near the great door. The Cupola was painted door on the left, is an ancient by Benasca, and the Lunettes are Vase of Basalt, adorned with the the work of Solimena and Gior- attributes of Bacchus ; (decora- dano ; the latter of whom has tions not very appropriate to a likewise adorned the Cross with Christian Temple.) The High four paintings representing the Altar, made according to the de- Annunciation ! the Nativity ! the signs of Cav. Posi,is composed of Birth of the Madonna! and the precious marbles and adorned with presentation in the Temple! The two antique Candelabra of jasper. High Altar is richly embellished Under the high altar is a subter- with precious marbles; and the ranean Chapel, called IlSoccorpo, Filomarini-Chapel (great part of which contains the body of S. which was executed after the de- Gennaro ; and is supposed to be a signs of Guido, by Calandra da remaining part of the Temple of Vercelli), is adorned with a beau- Apollo. This Chapel is incrusted tiful Basso-rilievo, by Fiamingo, with white marble adorned with representing a Concert of Chil- columns of the same ; and likewise dren ! ! Opposite to this Chapel embellished with bassi-rilievi in is that of the Conception, richly the arabesque style. Behind the adorned with precious marbles, tomb of S. Gennaro is a statue of and embellished with Paintings the Constructor of this Chapel, by Solimena and Marco di Siena. Cardinal Caraffa, 2 attributed to Arcivescovcido . This cathe- Buonaroti. Adjoining to the pre- deal, commonly called La Chiesa sentcathedralistheancientCAwrc^ di S. Gennaro, the Patron-Saint of S. Restituta ; which, though Santa Restituta, was erected, dur- tion, by Pietro Perugino ; and ing the reign of Constantine, up- some Mosaics of the time of Con- on the site of a Temple of Apollo. stantine. In the modern Cathe- Charles i. of Anjou began the new di al, and situated opposite to the Cathedral, which was finished in Church of S. Restituta, is the 1 Cardinal Caraffa, Archbishop of Naples, statue in all distempers of horses, that, when is celebrated for having melted Virgil’s horse, these animals were ill, they were brought The arms of Naples being a horse, there from every part of the kingdom, however formerly stood one of bronze near the Ca- remote, to be led round the statue. There- thedral : the vulgar said it was cast by Virgil fore, in order to abolish so silly a custom, the (whom they believe to have been a Magi- Archbishop melted down the whole ot Virgil’s cian) ; and they entertained such supersti- horse, the head excepted, tious notions of the great efficacy of this ch. x.l NAPLES. 243 Chapel of S. Gennaro, called II Tesoro , and built in consequence of a vow, made by the city of Naples during the Plague of 1526. The entrance to this Chapel is through a magnificent bronze door adorned with fine Columns of rare marble, and Statues of S. Peter and S. Paul. The interior of the edifice is a rotunda, embellished with a Cupola, painted by Lan- franco ! ! 1 and supported by forty- two Corinthian Columns of bro- catello ; bet wen which, on fes- tivals, are placed thirty-five silver Busts of Saints, executed by Fi- nelli ; and eighteen Busts, in bronze, by other artists. The high altar is adorned with a Statue of S. Gennaro in the act of bless- ing the people ; and likewise with a silver Tabernacle, containing the head of the Saint, and two small Yessels filled with his Blood, supposed to have been collected by a Neapolitan Lady during his martyrdom. Here also is a pic- ture of S. Gennaro coming out of the furnace, by Spagnoletto. The Painting in the large Chapel, to the right of the high altar, is by Domenichino ! as are the Arches and Angles of the roof, and the Pictures in three of the small Chapels. The Ceremony of liquefying the blood of S. Gennaro takes place three times a year ; namely, in May, September, and Decem- ber, and is an interesting sight to Foreigners : if it liquefy quick- ly, the joy expressed by the Nea- politans is great ; but if there be any unexpected delay, the tears, prayers, and cries, are excessive ; as the non-performance of this miracle is supposed to announce i ^ P or J 1 enichino began to paint the cupola, but died soon after the commencement oF his some dreadful impending cala- mity. Chiesa di S. Filippo Neri de P. P. Gerolimini. This is one of the handsomest churches at Na- ples : the outside being cased with marble; the inside lined with the same, and divided into three aisles by twelve magnificent Columns of granite. The pavement is mar- ble, and very elegant; and the High-Altar is composed of agate, sardonyx, jasper, lapis lazuli, mother of pearl, etc. Here also are fine Paintings in the Angles of the Cupola; a celebrated, though much damaged Fresco, above the great door, by Giordano, repre- senting our Saviour chasing the Buyers and Sellers from the Tem- ple; over the fifth Altar, on the right, S. Teresa with her Carme- lites at the foot of a crucifix, by the same artist ; and, on the oppo- site side, S. Francesco, by Guido. The Chapel of S. Filippo Neri is richly decorated; and contains, in its Cupola, a painting by Solime- tia, which represents the Saint in glory ; and on the opposite side of the high-altar is another Chapel, the Cupola of which was painted by Simonelli, the subject being Judith showing the head of Holo- fernes to his army. The Chapel of S. Alessio contains a Picture by Pietro da Cortona ; and in the Sacristy are Paintings attributed to Guido, Domenichino, Spagno- letto, etc. The Ceiling is by Gior- dano. Chiesa di S. Paolo Maggiore. This stately edifice stands on the site of an ancient Temple, sup- posed to have been erected by Ju- lius Tarsus, Tiberius’s Freedman ; who consecrated it to Castor and work ; which, from motives of envy, was obliterated by Lanfranco. 244 NAPLES; [on, x. Pollux. A considerable part of the portico of this Temple remained till the earthquake of 1688; but, now, only two Columns and the Entablature are entire. These noble vestiges of antiquity, two Bases of other columns, and the Trunks of the statues of Castor and Pollux (recumbent figures half buried in the wall), are on the outside of the church; the in- terior of which is elegantly in- crusted with marble, and adorn- ed with paintings by Solimena, Massimo, etc. The Frescos on the ceiling, by Corenzio, were ori- ginally fine ; though now much injured ; but that above the great door is in good preservation. The Sacristy contains the Chef s-d y oeu- vre of Solimena : and the Clois- ters of the adjoining Convent are adorned with antique Columns, and built upon the site of an an- cient Theatre , where Nero first exhibited in public ; because he deemed it less derogatory to im- perial grandeur to act with the awkwardness of a beginner in one of the Grecian cities, than in his own Capital. Chiesa di S. Maria Maggiore. This church is said to have been erected on the ruins of a Temple of Diana ; and has a well-painted Ceiling. Chiesa di S. Pietro a Majella. The Ceiling of the Nave is finely painted by Calabrese ! Cappella di S. Severo. This chapel, the Mauoleum of the San- gro-family, and called S. Maria della Pieta, is a singular edifice, adorned with rare marbles, and surrounded with arches; each of which contains a Sarcophagus, and a Statue of one of the Princes of Sangro : while attached to eve- ry adjoining pilaster is the tomb of the Princess who was wife to the Prince in the arch, each of the last named tombs being orna- mented with a Statue represent- ing the most conspicuous virtue of the lady in the tomb. One of the most remarkable statues is that of Modesty, covered from head to foot with a veil; through which, however, the features are clearly discernible. The sculptor was Corradini. "V ice undeceived is likewise a remarkable work; it re- presents a Man caught in a net, and struggling to extricate him- self, by aid of the Genius of Good- Sense ! the sculptor was Queirolo. Here, likewise, is a dead Christ covered with a veil, which seems damped by the sweat of Death ! The sculptor was Giuseppe San Martino ; and all these works pe- culiarly merit notice from being original ; as neither Greeks nor Romans seem to have attempted showing the face and form with distinctness through a veil. This chapel has suffered severely from earthquakes. Chiesa di S. M. Annunziata. This edifice, which was destroy- ed by fire, and rebuilt in 1782, according to the designs of the Cav. Vanvitclli, is one of the most chaste and beautiful specimens of architecture at Naples- The columns by which it is supported, forty-four in number, are all com- posed of white marble. The Pro- phets in the Angles of the Cu- pola are by Fischietti; to whose pencil they do honour. Pictures which adorn the High- Altar, and those of the Gross, are by Fran- cesco Mura. A Chapel on the right, near the high-altar, is ad- orned with a beautiful Pietd; and another chapel, near the great door, contains a picture of the NAPLES. 245 cn. x.] Madonna and our Saviour, and little Angels, the last of which are finely executed. The Ceiling of the Sacristy and Tesoro are painted by Corenzio ; and the Presses exhibit the life of our Sa- viour curiously sculptured in wood (some parts being gilt), by Gi- ovanni di Nola. Chiesa di S. Maria del Car ^ mine. This church is richly or- namented with rare marbles; and contains Paintings by Solimena, Giordano, and Paolo Malteis. Chiesa di S. Martino de Cer- tosini. 1 This church, which once belonged to the magnificent Cer- tosini convent, now the Asylum of military Invalids, was built after the designs of the Cav. Fansaga, and is more splendid and beautiful than any other sacred edifice at Naples: indeed it may vie with every church existing, in the ex- cellence of its paintings, and the value of its marbles and precious stones. Above the principal en- trance is a picture, by Massimo, representing our Saviour dead, and attended by the Madonna, the Magdalene, and S. John. The Ceiling and upper part of the walls of the Nave were painted by Lanfranco, except the twelve Prophets, by Spagnoletto, which are particularly fine ! ! and the figures of Moses and Elias by the same artist. The Choir is beau- tiful; and exhibits Paintings on the Ceiling, begun by the Cav. d’Arpino, and finished by Berar- dino. The unfinished picture of the Nativity, immediately behind the liigh-altar, is by Guido, who did not live to complete it: the other Pictures are by Massimo, 1 The Church of S. Martino stands near the Castle of S.Elmo, on the hill, called Monte Vomero, which rises above the city of Naples. To persons who walk, the distance is incon- Lanfranco, and Spagnoletto; that of our Saviour administering the Communion (by SpagnolettoJ, and that of the Crucifixion (by Lanfranco), are much admired. The High-Altar, made after the designs of Solimena, is splendidly adorned with rare marbles, and precious stones ; as likewise are the Altars of the Chapels. That conse- crated to S. Bruno, contains a fine Altar-Piece, etc., by Massimo — another Chapel is finely painted by Matteis — another, by Soli- mena — another is embellished with three good pictures ; namely, S. John baptizing our Saviour, by Carlo Maratla! S. John preach- ing, by Matteis ; and the decapi- tation of the Saint, by Massimo. These chapels are likewise rich in sculpture; and one of them con- tains a strikingly-fine Bust, by Giuseppe San-Martino. The Sa- cristy contains a Ceiling, beauti- fully painted by the Cav. d’Ar- pino— Presses ornamented with mosaics made of wood, and exe- cuted in a masterly style by a German Monk, in 1620 — a fine picture of our Saviour on the Cross, the Madonna, the Magda- lene and S. John, by the Cav. d’Arpino — S. Peter denying our Saviour, by M. A. Caravaggio ! ! — and our Saviour carried up the holy Stairs to the house of Pilate, by Massimo and Viviani. The Ceiling and Arches of the Tesoi'o are by Giordano ! and above the altar, which exhibits magnificent precious stones, is a painting of our Saviour dead, with the Ma- donna, the Magdalene, S. John, etc., a highly-celebrated work, deemed the master-piece of Spa- siderahle; though, from the steepness of the ascent, and the almost innumerable steps which compose the foot-way, this walk is fa- tiguing. The coach-road is circuitous, hut good. 246 NAPLES. gnoletto ! ! ! The Council Hall contains a Ceiling painted by Co- renzio — the Doctors of the Church , ten in number, by Paolo Fignolio — and the Flagellation, by the Cav. d’Arpino ! The next apart- ment contains the history of S. Bruno round the Walls ; with sacred subjects on the Ceiling, by Corenzio ! The Corridors of the adjoining Convent are composed of marble supported by columns of the same ; and the view from the interior of this proudly-si- tuated edifice is enchanting. Im- mediately below the conventual Garden lies the large flat-roofed city of Naples ; whose streets ap- pear like narrow foot-paths ; while the buzz of its inhabitants, who look like pigmies, and the noise of the carriages, which seem no larger than children’s toys, are with difficulty distinguishable. On one side is Capo di Monte, and the rich Neapolitan Campania; on another rise the majestic moun- tains of the A pennine, with Ve- suvius in their front ; while on another lies the wide-stretching Bay of Naples, bordered by Por- tici, etc., on the left, and Poz- zuoli, etc., on the right. This stu- pendous view is seen to the great- est advantage from that part of the conventual Garden called The Belvedere ' Caslello di S. Elmo. This fortress, formerly denominated S. Ermo, and, according to some writers, S. Erasmo, was begun by the Normans; and is chiefly formed out of an immense rock, said to be hewn into subterranean 1 The abominable Neapolitan custom of throwing dead bodies, without coffins, into burial-places under the churches, renders those which are most used as receptacles for the Dead, dangerous to the Living. Travellers who wish to visit the Churches least objectionable on the above-mentioned account, should confine themselves to S. Maria [en. %' apartments which extend to the Gastello Nuovo. Charles v. erect- ed the citadel. Palazzo- Berio. This noble edi- fice contains a fine collection of Pictures, a good library, and, in the Garden, a celebrated Group of Venus and Adonis, by Canova. 2 Albergo de Poveri. This im- mense and magnificent building (not yet finished) is an Asylum for Orphans and Children whose pa- rents cannot afford to give them the advantage of education. Here the boys are instructed in reading, writing, drawing, engraving, the elements of the mathematics, etc.; and the Girls in sewing, spin- ning, weaving linen, knitting, and other things useful to the poor. Naples contains several Thea- tres. The Teatro Reale di San Carlo , one of the largest and finest opera-houses in Italy, was so nearly destroyed by fire, during the year 1816, that nothing but the party- walls, and front of the building, remained: eleven months afterward, however, this Theatre rose from its ashes, adorned with even more than its original splen- dour ; and exhibiting six rows of boxes (thirty-two in each row), a parterre capable of accommo- dating six hundred and seventy- four persons seated, and above one hundred and fifty standing; a stage, the dimensions of which are immense : spacious corridors ; ex- cellent stairs ; and an adjoining edifice, called the Ridotto, which comprises ball-rooms, eating- rooms, and apartments of gam- ing ; the last being constantly del Parto — S. Martino — Trinita Maggiore — S. Chiara — S. Domenico Maggiore — S. Maria della Pieta — S. Paolo Maggiore — S. Filippo Neri— S. Gennaro — the Annunziata, and the S. S. Apostoli. 2 Here the servants are interdicted from receiving fees. NAPLES. CH. X.] open, night and day. The Teatro Reale del Fondo is another opera- house, smaller than San Carlo, but handsome. The Teatro de y Fiorentini exhibits buffa operas and plays. The Teatro Nuovo is appropriated to the same purpose. The Teatro di San Ferdinando is larger than any other, except San Carlo. The Teatro della Fenice is very small, and exhibits musical pieces and plays : and the Teatro di San Carlino, likewise very small, is much frequented on account of lhilcinella, 1 who exhi- bits there, and is a character pecu- liar now to the Kingdom of Na- ples, and, apparently of Grecian origin ; his performances are highly interesting to persons acquainted with the Neapolitan dialect. The Teatro della Fenice, and the Teatro di San Carlino , are usually open twice during twenty four hours, namely, at five in the afternoon; and again at ten at night. The Theatres Royal are opened alternately; because the same singers, dancers, and musi- cians, belong to both. The principal Promenades are, the Villa Reale ; the Chiaja; the Giardino Bottanico, made by the French, and lying in the way to the Campo Marzo , also made by the same nation; who likewise constructed a Road called, by them, S trada-N apoleon , which extends from Naples to Capo di Monte ; and is a magnificent and particularly beneficial work; as carriages which could not formerly be drawn up the hill without the aid of four horses, now go con- stantly with a pair ; so that this beautiful drive is become, during summer, the favourite airing of the Neapolitans. The Road begun 247 by Murat, but not finished, from Naples to Pozzuoli, is also a de- lightful Promenade. Persons who have time to spare would do well to visit the Market built by the French in imitation of an ancient iForurn Nundinarium ; and adorned by a figure of abun- dance in its centre. ( This market communicates with the Slrada Toledo.) British Travellers should likewise visit the Chapel of the Croce lie, in the Chiatamone; there a Monument has been late- ly erected to the memory of the Rev. John Chetwode Eustace, the eloquent and animated Author of“ The Classical Tour through Italy. ” This monument is placed behind the altar; and consists of a plain tablet of white marble ; on which, between two pillars, a fe- male figure (perhaps representing Italy) stands in relief, leaning, in a pensive attitude, on a tomb ; and by her is a stork, in the act of de- vouring a serpent. The inscrip- tion is in Latin, and ends with the following lines : ‘‘ Care, vale! Patrice manet, ate mum quo manebit Te gcnuisse decus, non lumuldsse do- lor Great care should be taken by Foreigners in order to procure good water, a scarce commodity at Naples ; that of the Fontana- Medina, near the Largo del Gas- tello, and that of the Fontana di S. Pietro Martire, and its envi- rons, is wholesome; but persons who do not contrive to procure water from one of these Fountains, which are supplied by an aqueduct, incur the risk of being attacked with a dysentery , or some other putrid disease. The climate of Naples differs materially in different parts of the 1 In Neapolitan, Polecenclla , 248 NAPLES. city. Persons who wish for a situation congenial to weak lungs, should reside in the Fouria. In the Largo del Castello and its environs the air is tolerably soft : but in the quarter of S. Lucia the vicinity of the sea, united with the dampness occasioned by a tufo mountain, directly under which the houses are built, renders the air dangerous to invalids, and not very wholesome even for persons in health. The houses on the Ghiaja are less dangerous than those in the quarter of S. Lucia, because further removed from the tufo mountain ; but their situation is too bleak for persons afflicted with tender lungs. Pizzo-Fal- cone is wholesome, and not noisy ; a peculiar advantage at Naples. The society in this city is not deemed so good as at Ptonie ; nei- ther is the Carnival so brilliant : but the Festival ofS. Maria Piedi- grotto, on the 8th of September, is a sight worth seeing. 1 Here are several Hotels : and a considerable number of private lodging-houses ; among the former of which are : The Grand-Bre- tagna — The Crocelle — The Villa di Londra — The Alb ergo Reale ■ — The Alhergo di Venezia y and The Hotel des lies Britanniques. The character of the Neapoli- tans appears to havebeennrstaken by Travellers ; who seem inclined to think the lower classes of peo- ple cunning, rapacious, profligate, and cruel ; and the more exalted ignorant, licentious, and revenge- ful ; this, however, is not, gene- rally speaking, true ; for the com- 1 On the eve of the Festival of Corpus Chrisli, the Magistrates of Naples give a con- cert of vocal and instrumental music to the common people, in a long and wide street, which is fitted up for the occasion, with Gal- leries on each side; a Fountain in the centre, adorned with evergreens and statues; and, at [CH. X, mon people are open-hearted, in- dustrious, and, though passionate, so fond of drollery, that a man in the greatet rage will suffer him- self to be appeased by a joke ; and though a Neapolitan some- times does an injury, from the first impulse of anger, he is not malicious. Those among the com- mon people who have mixed much with Foreigners are expert in making bargains, and eager to extort money ; but those who have lived chiefly among each other display no such propensities; and what seems to indicate a good disposition is, that they all may be governed by kind words ; while a contrary language never fails to frustrate its own purpose. Gentlemen of the church, law, and army, are tolerably well educated; and in this middle rank may be found as much true friendship, as much sterling worth, and as many amiable Characters, as in any nation whatsoever : neither are examples wanting, among the no- bility, of talents, erudition, and moral virtue, though such for a length of years has been the na- ture of the Neapolitan Govern- ment, that persons gifted with ower to distinguish themselves, ave seldom ventured to exert it. I cannot dismiss this subject without mentioning a peculiar trait of charity we met with among the common people. Our cook, by birth a Neapolitan, was mar- ried to a young woman whom we hired, one summer, as our house- maid ; and, after having been with us a few w r eeks, she requested per- the upper end, a handsome Temple, in which the musicians are placed. The street is bril- liantly illuminated; and all these prepara- tions are made within the space of six hours. The concert begins at eight in the evening, and ends at ten ; and this entertainment is called the Festa di C’hiatamone. NAPLES. 249 CH. X.] mission logo and see her adopted child, who was (she said) very ill. The word “adopted,” surprised us so much, that we inquired why a man and woman who worked hard for their bread, and were both young enough to expect a family of their own, had been in- duced to adopt a child? They replied, that the child was a foundling, and therefore belonged to the Madonna; consequently, by such an adoption, they ensured her blessing on themselves and their own offspring; and, after- ward, when we mentioned this circumstance to our Neapolitan friends, they informed us, that such instances of charity were by no means rare among the common people . 1 I will now close my account of Naples with a List of the ob- jects best worth notice, as they lie contiguous to each other. 1 Some writers have said that, among the common people of Naples, there are forty thousand termed Lazzaroni, from having no home, and being consequently obliged to make the streets their sleeping-place. This, Studii Publici — Palazzo Reale — Chiesa di S. Ferdinando — Castel Nuovo — Cas tello dell' Uovo — Cliiesa di S. Maria del Porto —di S. Brigida—di S. Giovanni de' Fioren tini — delt Incoronata — della Pietd de Torchini — di S. Maria della Nuova — di Monte- Olive to — diTrinitd Mag- giore—di S. Chiara — di S. Gio- vanni Maggiore—di Gesii Vec- chio — di S. Domenico Maggiore — dello Spirito Santo — di S. Maria della Sanita — di S. Gio- vanni a Carbonara—dd S. S . Apostoli—Arcivescovaclo — Chie- sa de Gerolimini — di S. Paolo Maggiore-— di S. Maria Maggio- re — di S. Pietro d Majella — Ca- pe lla di S. Severo — Chiesa di S. M. Annunziata — di S. Maria del Carmine — di S. Martino de Ger- tosini — Gastello di S. Elmo — Pa- lazzo-Berio — Albergo de Poveri . however, is a mistake ; it being quite as rare to see the indigent without a bed at Naples, as in any other city of Italy. The feet is, that the Lazzaroni sleep three or four in ona bed, paying a grain each to their landlord. CHAPTER XL ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. Excursion to Baias— 'Virgil’s Tomb— Grotto of Posilipo— Island of Nisida— Pozzuoli— Cathedral -^-Pedestal adorned with bassi-rilievi — Temple of Jupiter Serapis — Piers of the ancient Mole — Monte Nuovo — Lucrine Lake — Lake Avernus — Temple of Proserpine — Grotto of the Cu- maean Sibyl — Nero’s Villa and Vapour-baths — Caesar’s Villa — Baiae — Temple of Venus — Camere di Venere — Public Baths — Temples of Mercury and Diana Baiana — Villa of Marius —Piscinae of Hortensius — Villa of Lucullus— Piscina Mirabile — Cape and Port of Misenum — Cento Camerelle— Sepolcro d’Agrippina — Amphitheatre of Pozzuoli — Excursion to Cumae— Solfatara— Sepulchral Monuments of Puteoli— Cicero’s Villa— Arco Felice — Ancient Cumae— Grotto of the Sibyls Cumea and Cumana — Tempio de’ Giganti — Excursion to the Lake d’Agnano — Villa of Lucullus — Baths of S. Germano — Grotto del Cane — Pisciarelli — Astroni — Excursion to Caserta — Aqueduct — Palace — Ancient Capua — Excursion by night to Vesu- vius — best Cicerone— Expense attending this Excursion — Herculaneum, how discovered — Description of that city — descent into the Theatre — Museum at Portici — Excursion to Pompeii— Destruction of Torre del Greco, etc. in 1794 — Least fatiguing method of seeing Pompeii— Discovery of that city— Excavations made by the French— Present appearance of Pompeii— Objects best worth notice there — Customs and manners of the Moderns similar to those of the Ancients— Excursion to Paestum— time employed in going — expense — Cross road— great road— Nocera— Cava— Vietri— Salerno— Paestum ; its supposed origin— Walls, Gates, Temples, etc.— Sonnet— Eboli— Convent cf La Trinita— Excursion by water to Sor- rento— Situation of that town— Accommodations— Antiquities— Climate— Description of the Plain of Sorrento, etc. — Character of the Sorren lines — Provisions — Lodging-houses — Massa — Amalfi — Castel-a-Mare — Capri— Excursion to the Islands of Procida and Ischia. I will now endeavour to give an account of the Environs of this City, which are particularly beau- tiful, and as peculiarly interesting. EXCURSION TO BAIJ3. We set out from Naples at nine in the morning, in a close car- riage, which we hired for eight hours, to convey us to Pozzuoli, and wait there, till we had taken the usual round. We then drove to the end of the Riviera di Chiaja, got out of our carriage, and ascended from the Mergellina quarter to a Garden, where, si- tuated on the summit of the arch of that entry to the Grotto of Po- silipo which fronts the city, stands Virgil's Tomb : its shape ap- pears to have been a cylinder, with a dome, supported by a square base, and ten niches for cinerary urns : these, however, have disappeared ; as likewise has the bay-tree by which this se-^ pulchre was once overshadowed. Yirgil’s tomb gave birth to four lines so beautiful that I cannot forbear inserting them : their au- thor was asked, “ whether he would prefer Fame during life, or Renown after death?” to which question he answered thus : “ Virgilii ad tumulum divini pram in Vatis, Extendit viridem laurea densa comam. Quid tibi defuncto hac prosit ? felicior olim Sub patulce fagi tegmine vivus eras.” 1 1 I was favoured by a friend with the following imitation of these lines :— The glorious plant that crowns the Poet’s head, Still throws its fragrant leaves o’er Virgil dead; But to the lifeless eye, th’ unconscious heart. What pleasure can its fragrant leaves impart ? Far happier He, when ’neath the beechen shade, At ease outstretch’d, his living form was laid. 25 i ENVIRONS OF NAPLES— BALE, etc. The garden which contains this tomb commands a magnificent view; and in an arbour here, im- mediately above the English bu- rial-ground, Travellers frequently dine. Returning to our carriage, we drove through the Grotto of Po- silipo ; l 2 drawing up the glasses while we passed that part which is near Pozzuoli, and, at times, damp and unwholesome. Men- tion is made of this Grotto by Strabo, Seneca, Pliny, etc, ; but by whom it was formed seems uncertain. At the entrance is a chapel ; in the centre are two large funnels cut through the roof to admit light and air; and sus- pended over the road are lamps always kept burning. The length of the Grotto is computed to be two thousand three hundred and sixteen feet, its breadth twenty- two, and its height in the most lofty part eighty-nine feet. After emerging from this singular ca- vern we passed the Island of Nisida, formerly Nesis, where Marcus Brutus had a villa ; and where now is the Lazaretto; and then, on arriving at Pozzuoli (called, by the Greeks, Diccear - chiaf and, by the Romans, Pu- teoli)i we engaged a guide, or- dered a boat for Raise, etc. ; and a donkey to go round by land to the Lucrine Lake : we likewise ordered the guide to purchase a couple of torches for the subter- ranean part of our intended ex- cursion ; and, while the boat was preparing, visited the objects best worth notice at Pozzuoli. The Cathedral, once a Temple conse- 1 Tlctvtris THf \v7rtis, the ancient ap- pellation given to this part of the environs of Naples,' means a cessation from sorrow : and no spot can exhibit more cheerful beauty |. than does the hill of Posilipo. 2 Antat ictp%itL, crated to Augustus, exhibits large square stones joined together with- out cement, and some remains of Corinthian columns, all of which appear to have belonged to the ancient edifice. In the principal Piazza stands a Pedestal of white marble, found in 1693 ; on which are represented figures, in basso- rilievo , personifying the fourteen cities of Asia Minor, that were, during one night, destroyed by an earthquake, in the reign of Tiberius, and rebuilt by that Emperor. In the same Piazza is an antique Statue, bearing the name of Q. Flavio Maesio Egna- tio Lolliano : and not far distant is the Temple dedicated to the Sun, under the name of Jupiter Serapis, 3 a magnificent edifice erected during the sixth century of Rome ; but partly thrown down and completely buried by an earthquake, till the year 1750 of the Christian era, when it was fortunately discovered by a pea- sant, who espied the top of one of the columns a few inches above ground ; in consequence of which, an excavation was begun, and the temple displayed to view, almost entire : indeed, had those parts which were thrown down by the earthquake been restored to their proper places, this building would have exhibited the most perfect, and one of the noblest vestiges of antiquity yet discovered — but, alas, the Kings of Spain and Na- ples, instead of restoring, or even leaving things in the state where- in they were found, have taken away columns, statues, all, in short, that they deemed worth 3 This name is probably derived from two Hebrew words denoting the burning fire, or substance. — See Parkhcust’s Hebrew Lexicon, 7th edit. 8vo. p.346. The Temple of Jupiter Serapis is seen ho peculiar advantage by torch-light. 252 ENVIRONS OF NAPLES — BALE, etc. [ch. xr. removal : neither have they exca- vated sufficiently, as the front of the principal entrance does not ap- pear to be yet unburied : enough, however, meets the eye, to form one of the most interesting ob- jects imaginable. This temple is a hundred and thirty-four feet long, by a hundred and fifteen feet wide, its form being qua- drangular. Its pavement consists of beautiful marbles, with which the whole edifice appears to have been lined : three of its columns alone remain standing ; and these have been robbed of their capi- tals : each shaft is one solid piece of cipollino. Four flights of mar- ble steps led to the middle part of the Temple; which part was sixty-five feet in diameter, and of a circular form ; and near the site of one of the flights of steps are two rings of Corinthian brass, to which the victims destined for slaughter were probably fasten- ed : the receptacles for their blood and ashes still remain ; as do the bathing rooms for the priests, which are nearly perfect. The quantity of water in and about this Temple, added to the cir- cumstance of there being, within its walls, upward of thirty small apartments, several of which re- semble baths, induce a belief that the Sick and Infirm resorted hither, to bathe in consecraled water, which the priests provid- 1 Tbe water adjoining io this temple is now used for medicinal purposes. ' 2 The earthquake which produced Monte Nuovo ingulphed the village of Tripergole, filled up great part of the Lucrine Lake, and probably destroyed the oyster-beds for which it was celebrated by the Latin poets. 3 According to Pliny, a dolphin, during the reign of Augustus, frequented this Lake ; and was rendered so tame by a boy, that he would sit upon the fish’s back, and actually cross the Lake in this manner. 4 Supposed to be the crater of an extinct yolcano. ed ; obtaining, no doubt, thereby, a considerable revenue. 1 Not having time to visit the Amphitheatre of Pozzuoli, we embarked in our little vessel, and examined the Piers of the an- cient Mole, a magnificent work, supposed to have been construct- ed by the Greeks, and repaired by the Roman Emperors, and to which Caligula joined his bridge of boats. Then leaving, on the right, Monte Nuovo ( formed A.D. 1538, in thirty- six hours, by a volcanic explosion,) 2 we landed at the Lucrine Lake , 3 be- tween which and the Lake Aver- nus, 4 Agrippa opened a Canal of communication, forming of both the Julian Port. Hence we pro- ceeded to the Lake Avernus, the Tartarus of Virgil, described in the sixth book of the iEneid; and once so noxious, that if birds at- tempted to fly over it, they drop- ped down dead. 5 We observed on its banks the ruins of a Tem- ple, supposed to have been de- dicated either to Proserpine or Pluto ; and then walked, through a shady and beautiful path, to the Grotto of the Cumcean Sibyl , which led from Virgil’s Tartarus to the Cocytus, Acheron, 6 Styx, Elysium, etc. Through this Ca- vern (the Grotto of Posilippo in miniature), we walked, preceded by men carrying lighted torches, till we came to wnat are called 5 Ancient historians asgert that no fish could exist in this Lake : at present, how- ever, it abounds with fish ; and many aquatic birds not only fly over it, but repose un- hurt upon its bosom. It was originally called Aornos ; a Greek word, which means with i- out birds. — See Lucret. lib. vi. 6 The Acheron was the Palus Aclierusia of the ancients; called by Virgil, from the blackness of its water, Palus Tenebrosa. The Lake of Fusaro is situated on the Pa- lude Acherusia; and, at certain seasons, a Traiteur resides near the Lake, and supplies Travellers with dinner. cb. xi.l ENVIRONS OF NAPLES-BAI32, etc. 253 the Sibyls Baths , which consist of three small Chambers adorned with Mosaics, but now nearly filled two feet deep with water, so that we were obliged to mount our donkey by turns, in order to penetrate them : having accorn- lished this, we sent the donkey y land to Bauli ; re-embarking ourselves, and rowing to Nerds Villa, where we landed again, to visit the Vapour Baths , which are, however, so intensely hot, that it is imprudent to examine them from motives of mere cu- riosity. They are used by the Neapolitans during summer; and the water here boils an egg in two minutes. On re-embarking for Baiae, we observed other Hot Baths, which belonged to Nero’s Villa ; and the steps which led from that edifice to the sea; to- gether with the Ruins of Ccesar’s Villa, situated upon the north point of the Bay of Baiae. Here we again quitted our boat, and walked to the Temple of Venus Genitrix, a beautiful ruin, the outside of which is octagonal, the inside circular. The Garden im- mediately behind this temple con- tains chambers, called La Camere di Venere, which exhibit remains of stucco Ornaments finely exe- cuted ; and adjoining to these i chambers are Ruins of Public Baths. Hence we proceeded to the temples of Mercury and Diana Ba'iuna; the first of which is a circular edifice, nearly per- fect, with an aperture in its dome similar to that of the Pantheon : the second is a fine ruin ; and appears to have been hexagonal without ; but, like the temple of 1 This hnilding contained Reservoirs of pnrified water, for the use of the Roman Fleet : which water, from being purified ere it eutered the reservoirs, was not liable to Venus, circular within. Some writers imagine these three tem- ples, as they are now called, made part of the public Baths. Getting again into our boat, we saw the Villa of Marius, and the Pis- cince of Hortensius ; the founda- tions of which may still be dis- cerned under water ; and then, re-landing at Bauli, ascended to the Villa of Lucullus, where Ti- berius expired. The substruc- tions of this Villa, and the cele- brated Reservoir, called Piscina Mirabile , 1 consisting of forty- eight piers, merit observation ; as does the neighbouring Cape of Misenum , whose harbour con- tained the Roman Fleet, com- manded by Pliny the Elder, at the time of that eruption of Vesu- vius which buried Herculaneum, Pompeii, and Stabiae. Misenum was the principal Port of the Ro- mans in the Tyrrhene sea, as Ra- venna was in the Adriatic ; and from the summit of the hill on which stand the ruins of the Villa of Lucullus, we had a fine view of the former Port, the Stygian Lake (for such, according to Vir- gil, is the Mare morto, or third basin of this harbour), and the Elysian Fields, 1 2 situated on the banks of the Mare morto. Re- turning from the summit of the hill, we visited the Cento Came - relle, supposed to have been a prison ; and consisting of a large number of small subterranean apartments vaulted, and lined with plaster, After seeing what appears to have been the Guard- rooms, we descended into the Vaults, by the aid of torches ; and then walked back to the Ma- become putrid wlien kept in barrels. 2 The Elysian Fields are supposed to l ave been a Roman burial-ground for persons of opulence. 254 ENVIRONS OF NAPLES— CUMiE, etc. [ch. xx. rina di Bauli ; observing, on our way, a double row of Columba- ria ; and visiting, lastly, what is called II Sepolcro d' Agrippina ; though, probably, it was a Cor- ridor of the Theatre which be-? longed to her Villa, for, accord- ing to Tacitus, she was privately buried, after having been killed by order of Nero; and the iden- tical spot which enclosed her re- mains is unknown. 1 Having refreshed ourselves with a cold dinner, which we brought from Naples, we embarked for Pozzuoli ; and, on arriving there, ordered our carriage to be got ready, while we visited the Am- phitheatre. This edifice has suf- fered considerably from earth- quakes ; but is, nevertheless, better preserved than any other ancient structure at Pozzuoli. Its form is an oval of two storeys high ; its arena is about a hun- dred and ninety feet long, by a hundred and thirty feet wide; the walls of the building are com- posed of large square stones ; and the number of spectators it con- tained was forty-five thousand. Near this spot is a subterranean Ruin, called 11 Laberinto di De- dalo ; but, more probably, a Re- servoir for the water used in the amphitheatre. 2 EXCURSION TO CUMiE, ETC. Again we left Naples at nine in the morning, in a carriage hired 1 Many persons extend this excursion by visiting the Theatre of Misenum, of which part of the Proscenium, the Declivity for Seats, and the Corridors remain ; and by likewise visiting the Grolla Traconara , a vast reservoir under the Promontory, and the Fish-ponds of Lucullus under its west- ern side. Pliny says, the fishes in these Re- servoirs, belonging to the Roman Villas at Baias, were so tame that they fed out of the hand, and when called by their feeders leaped out of the water ; that each fish knew its name} and, that several of them for six hours: and, on arriving at the gate of Pozzuoli, engaged a Cicerone, with whom we proceed- ed to the Solfatara ; in order to see the process of making alum, vi- triol, aud sal-ammoniac, from the volcanic substances found in the crater. We then visited Cicero's Villa, of which a Wine-Cellar alone remains ; the stately porticos and spacious gardens described by Pliny, being all swept away by the hand of Oblivion. Cicero called this Villa The Academia , from having composed his Acade- mic Questions here; and in this Villa died the Emperor Adrian; to whose memory Antoninus Pius erected a stately Temple to serve the purpose of a tomb. Pro- ceeding toward the Arco Felice, we were presented with an inter- esting and picturesque view from the banks of the Lake Avernus, comprehending Monte Nuovo, the Temple supposed to have been dedicated either to Proserpine, or Pluto; the Lucrine Lake, with part of Baiae, Misenum, Capri, etc., and previous to arriving at the Arco Felice we discovered traces of the Aqueduct which con- veyed water to Cumae, and the neighbouring Villas. The Arco Felice , or Gate of Cumce , served also for a Citadel and an Aque- duct ; and its summit, if the day be clear, exhibits a fine view of the Circean Promontory, and the Islands of Ischia, Ponza, and were adorned with necklaces and ear-rings. 2 Our expenses during this excursion were as follow : — Carriage, piastres, 3. Buona-mano to coachman, carlini, 3. Boat with four oars, piastres, 3. Cicerone, piastre, 1. Temple of Jupiter Serapis, carlini, 2. Baths of Nero, ditto, 4. Camere di Venere, ditto, 2. Cento Camerelle, ditto, 2. Piscina Mirabile, ditto, 2. Donkey and Guide, ditto, 10. It is not necessary to have a boat with four oars, unless the party be large. ck. xi.] ENVIRONS OF NAPLES— LAKE D’AGNANO, etc. 255 Vandolena ; the last of which was the ancient Pandataria , whither Julia was banished. Remains of the Via Consularis, leading from Pozzuoli to Cumae, are discover- able on each side of the Arco F e- lice ; after passing through which, and turning to the right, we ob- served a Ruin, called the Temple of the Giants , because some co- lossal statues were found within its walls; here likewise are con- siderable remains of the Cuinsean Aqueduct. We proceeded next through what Appears to have been one of the Streets of Cumce, to the Castle ; which, judging from the large stones that com- pose it, was a Grecian work ; and which, during the fifth century, when Alaric, Kingofthe Westra- goths, subdued this country, was in such good condition that he de- posited the spoils of his conquests here, as a place of strength. After examining this Ruin, we ascend- ed the Hill above it ; where, ac- cording to Virgil, Daedalus alight- ed, after his flight from Crete, consecrated his wings to Apollo, and built a temple to that god : but the only antiquities now re- maining here are Baths and R e- servoirs for water. From the sum- mit of this hill the Acheron is dis- coverable toward the south; and about four miles northward stands the Torre di P atria, on the site of the ancient Liternum , whither Scipio' Africanus retired, and where he died. After descending from the height which exhibits this prospect, we visited a Grotto, called that of the Sibyls Cumea and Cumana ; and then returned | to Naples by the Lake of Fusaro. | The last-named Grotto is supposed to communicate with that on the margin of the Lake Avernus ; and contains an ancient Staircase , leading to several ancient Baths . 1 EXCURSION TO THE LAKE d’aG- NANO, ETC. We hired a carriage for four hours ; drove to the village imme- diately beyond the Grotto of Po- silipo ; inquired for the keeper of the Grotto del Cane ; and told him we were going thither ; first, however, stopping at the Lago d’Agnano , once the crater of a volcano, as appears by its form ; and likewise by the volcanic sub- stances that compose its environs. On the bank of this Lake are some remains of a Villa which belonged to Lucullus, who open- ed a communication between the sea and this lake ; converting the latter into a Reservoir for fish. Contiguous to the ruins of this Villa are the Vapour Baths of S. Germano , frequented, during summer, by persons afflicted with the rheumatism. Hence we pro- ceeded to the Grotto del Cane , the mephitical air of which throws a dog into convulsions, extinguishes a lighted torch, and prevents a pis- tol from going off: but the first being a cruel experiment, we con- tented ourselves with witnessing the two last. Our next object was the Pisciarelli ; a rirulet of boiling water, issuing from the base of the cone of the Solfatara, and, in distsnee, about a mile from the Lago d’Agnano. This water boils an egg in eight minutes, and is strongly impregnated with alum and vitriol ; the latter of which preponderates to such a degree as to produce ink, when mixed with 1 To the Cicerone who attended us during this excursion we gave tea carlini; be furnishing torches for the Grotto of the Sib) Is. 256 ENVIRONS OF NAPLES— CASERTA, etc, [at. m. galls. Every little aperture in the earth round this hill exhibits sul- phur crystallized, sal-ammoniac, vitriol, etc. Having satisfied our curiosity here, we proceeded to Astroni , a romantic crater of an extinct volcano, now converted into a royal hunting park. The crater is walled round at its sum- mit (to prevent the game it con- tains from escaping), and com- puted to be about four miles and a half in circumference. The in- terior part exhibits solid lava, scoriae, tufo, pumice, and other productions usually found in ac- tive volcanos. 1 * EXCURSION TO CASERTA, ETC. 3 Caserta is about sixteen miles from Naples, and so near to mo- dern Capua that, by sleeping at the latter town, we made this ex- cursion on our way from Naples to Rome. On arriving at Caserta we ordered a pair of fresh horses to take us to the Aqueduct , which is about five miles further off ; and near three hours must be em- ployed in order to see it well, and return to Caserta. The hill we ascended on our way, exhibits an extensive and beautiful prospect of the Campania Felice. On arriv- ing at the Aqueduct , the Keeper conducted us along the top of part of that structure ; showing us the course of the water at one of the turrets. Hence we descended through the passages of the two loftiest rows of arches, and pro- ceeded to the centre-arch, to read the inscriptions ; afterward taking a more distant view of this mag- nificent work, which extends twelve miles in a straight line, and 1. To the Keeper of the Grotto del Cane and Vapour-balhs we gave six carlini ; and to the Keeper at Astroni two carlini. 2 It is not necessary to carry a cold dinner twenty-six computing its sinuosi- ties. Charles hi. erected it, em- ploying as his architect the Cav. Vanvitelli. On our return to Caser- ta we visited the Palace , built like- wise by Vanvitelli, at the com- mand of Charles m. ; and deemed , in point of size and architecture, the most splendid royal residence existing : its form is rectangular ; its length seven hundred and forty- six feet, its breadth five hundred and seventy-six, and its height one hundred and thirteen feet. The great Couft or entrance to this edifice is five hundred and seven feet in length, and particu- larly magnificent ; sojikewise is the great Staircase. The Vesti- bule to the chapel, and the Chapel itself, highly merit notice; and the latter contains, in the royal gallery, a fine picture by Mengs. The large Theatre is adorned with twelve columns of basalt, taken from the Temple of Jupiter Sera- pis, and may vie, in point of size and splendour, with several of the public theatres of Europe: but the royal apartments in this pa- lace, though vast, and beautifully proportioned, are so ill furnished as to be little worth attention. On our way to modern Capua we passed through what is supposed to have been the ancient town , and observed a sepulchral Monu- ment on the left, and another on the right ; the latter being low, and of a circular form, with niches for cinerary urns. 3 The remains of the Amphitheatre likewise l:e on the right, close to the road; and the exterior Wall, the colossal Busts in the key-stones of the arches, the three Corridors, the to Caserta, the inn there being tolerably good. 3 Remains of a Crypto -Porticus are sup- posed to be discoverable on this side of the road. ch. xi. j ENVIRONS OF NAPLES— VESUVIUS. 257 four principal Entrances, the de- clivity for the Seats, the Staircases and Arena, are all discoverable. Between this Amphitheatre and modern Capua are remains of an Arch, supposed to have been one of the Gates of the ancient town ; which, if this be its site, was si- tuated four miles from Caserta, and one mile and a half from mo- dern Capua, between the rivers Volturno and Clanio. EXCURSION TO VESUVIUS. Wishing to see a slight erup- tion of Vesuvius, which happened in November 1818, we hired a carriage logo to Rusina (five miles distant from Naples) ; took with us a basket of cold meat, bread, and wine, together with six torches; 1 and set out five hours before sun-set. When arrived at Resina, we drove to the house of Salvatore, the best Cicerone of the mountain ; and after dismiss- ing our carriage, and giving di- rections that it should be ready again in seven hours at the same place, to convey us home, we re- quested Salvatore to provide us with mules, guides, and one chaise - d-porteur , and likewise to un- dertake to pay the guides himself ; that we might not be importuned for more than the proper price, 1 These torches are eighteen grnni each, if bought at Naples; and three carlini each, if bought at Resina. 2 Persons who ascend and descend Vesu- vius by daylight usually give, for each donkey and guide, eight carlini; for each chaise-a - porteur, with six men, four ducats; and to the Cicerone twelve carlini. Sometimes, how- ever, six piastres are demanded for a cliaise- a-porteur during the night, and four piastres during the day. Persons who wish to see what is called The Grotto, on Vesuvius, should provide themselves with a cold dinner, and set out from Naples about nine in the morning for the house of Salvatore, at Resina ; thence proceeding on donkeys to the Hermitage ; and, after dining there, proceeding again on namely, each donkey and guide one ducat, and each chaise-a~ porteur , with eight men, six ducats. To the Cicerone it is customary to give from twelve to fifteen carlini. 2 From Resina to the Hermitage on Vesuvius our mules conveyed us in two hours ; and, after resting a short time, proceeded with us for about half an hour longer ; when we dis- mounted, and were either carried in the chaise-a-porteur , or walked up toward the crater. This walk was extremely fatiguing, and oc- cupied a full hour : but when we reached the little plain on V esu- vius, our labours were richly re- compensed by the sight of five distinct streams of fire issuing from two mouths, and tumbling wave after wave, slowly down the mountain, with the same noise, and in the same manner, as the melting Glaciers roll into the Val- ley of Chamouni : indeed, while I contemplated this awful and ex- traordinary scene, I could have fancied myself transported to the base of the Montanvert, had it not been for the crimson glare and ex- cessive heat of the surrounding scoriae. After resting ourselves some time, we descended, by a path knee deep in ashes, to the spot donkeys to the Grotto, about an hour’s ride, on a good road. Donkeys cannot go nearer than the foot of the hillock on which the Grotto is situated : persons, therefore, who resolve to examine this curious production of Vesuvius, must walk about a quarter of a mile up a very steep ascent. When I made this excursion, I returned, after examining the Grotto, to the Hermitage ; where I re- mained, till it became quite dark, viewing the eruptions of the mountain, and then walked down to Resina by torch -light. I paid for my donkey and guide twelve carlini; for wine, and the use of a room with a fire, twelve carlini ; and to the Cicerone twelve carlini for himself, and six for the use of his torches. z 2 258 ENVIRONS OP NAPLES -HERCULANEUM, [cn.xr. where we had left our mules ; thence proceeding, on foot, 'till within a short distance of the Her- mitage; when we mounted the mules, and returned to Resina. It is advisable for persons who ascend Vesuvius to provide them- selves with strong boots, and stout walking sticks ; unless they re- solve to be carried the whole way in chairs; which, though practi- cable, is expensive. EXCURSION TO HERCULANEUM, AND THE MUSEUM AT PORTICI. Herculaneum was situated about live miles from Naples: and the present descent into this entombed city is at Resina. We took wax torches with us ; because the Ci- cerone seldom provides a sufficient number : and we likewise put on thick shoes, and wrapped ourselves up; because the air of Hercula- neum is damp, and the pavement wet in several places. This city, according to Dionysius of Halicar- nassus, was founded by Hercules. 1 The Alexandrian Chronicle men- tions it as having been built sixty veais before the siege of Troy ; Pliny and Flo i us speak of it as a great and flourishing city ; and some authors conjecture that it was the Capua whose luxuries ruined Hannibal’s army. 2 Dion Cassius gives the following account of its destruction, which happen- ed on the twenty-fourth of August, in the year seventy-nine. “An incredible quantity of ashes, car- ried by the wind, filled air, earth, and sea ; suffocating men, cattle, 1 Perhaps founded in honour of the Sun ; a. the word Hercules appears to be de- rived from a Hebrew compound, meaning u tiversal fire, and allusive to the attri- bites of I he sun. 2 The Via Appia having passed through birds, and fishes, and burying two entire cities, namely, Herculaneum and Pompeii, while their inhabi- tants were seated in the theatres.” The people of Herculaneum, how- ever, must have found time to es- cape ; as very few skeletons, and very little portable wealth, have been discovered in those parts al- ready excavated. Some quarters of the city are buried sixty-eight feet deep in ashes and lava; others above a hundred. This seems, from Dion Cassius, to have been the first great eruption of Vesuvius that the Romans witnessed; though there undoubtedly were volcanos in the adjoining country, from ages immemorial. The last named author says, that the ashes and dust ejected by Vesuvius darkened the sun at Rome; and were car- ried by the wind to Egypt : and Giuliani asserts, that during the eruption of 1631 , the ashes were carried to Constantinople in such quantities as to terrify the Turks. The spot where Herculaneum stood was not ascertained till the beginning of the last century; but, about the year 1713, a peasant, while sinking a well at Portici, found several pieces of ancient mosaic, which happened to be at that time sought for by the Prince d’Elbeuf,whowas building a house in the neighbourhood. The Prince, wanting these fragments of marble to compose a stucco in imitation of that used by the Ancients, 3 purchased, of the peasant, a right to search for them ; on doing which, he was recompenses with a statue of Hercules, and another it, is, I believe, one reason for this conjec- ture. 3 The first coat of ancient stucco appears to have been made of smalt pieces of brick, or marble, mixed with pozzolana and lime. ch. xr.l ENVIRONS OF NAPLES-HERCULANEUM. 259 of Cleopatra : this success encou- raged hijn to proceed with ardour, when the architrave of a marble gate, seven Grecian statues, re- sembling Vestals, and a circular Temple, encompassed by twenty- four columns of oriental alabaster on the outside, the same number within, and likewise embellished by statues, were the reward of his labour: in short, the produce of these excavations became consi- derable enough to attract the at- tention oflhe Neapolitan Govern- ment : in consequence of which, the Prince d Elbeuf was com- manded to desist; and all re- searches were given up, till the ear 1736; w r hen Don Carlos, on ecoming King of Naples, wished to build a palace at Portici ; and purchased, of the Prince d Elbeuf, his lately erected house, together with the ground whence he had taken so many valuable antiqui- ties. The King now made an ex- cavation eighty feet deep, and dis- covered buried in the earth an en- tire city; together with the bed of a river which ran through it, and even part of the water: he also discovered the Temple of Ju- piter, containing a statue reputed to be gold ; and afterward laid open the Theatre, directly over which the peasant’s well was found to have been sunk. The inscrip- tions on the doors of this Theatre, fragments of bronze horses gilt, and of the car to which they be- longed (decorations probably of the grand entrance), together with a considerable number of statues, columns, and pictures, were now brought to light: but, nevertheless, in the year 1765, not more than fifty labourers were employed in making these valuable excava- tions; in 1769, the number was reduced to ten ; and, in 1 776, to three or four. Resina (an- ciently Retina ) and Portici being built immediately over Hercula- neum, the workmen could not venture to excavate as they would have done had the surface of the earth been less encumbered ; con- sequently the plans of Hercula- neum and its edifices are not accu- rate : it is, however, ascertained that the streets were wide, straight, paved with lava, and bordered with raised footways ; that the buildings are composed of tufo and other volcanic substances ; the interior walls adorned with fres- cos, or stained with a deep and beautiful red colour ; the architec- ture Grecian, and, generally speak- ing, uniform. The rooms in pri- vate houses were small, and either paved with mosaics, or bricks three feet long, and six inches thick. It does not appear that the generality of the people had glazed windows ; though some excellent plate glass has been found in Herculaneum; but almost every window seems to have been provided with wooden shutters, pierced so as to admit light and air. The most consi- derable edifice yet discovered is a Forum, or Chalcidicura. This building seems to have been a rec- tangular court, two hundred and twenty-eight feet long, and en- compassed with a portico support- ed by forty-two columns: it was paved with marble, and adorned with paintings. The portico of entrance was composed of five arcades, ornamented with eques- trian statues of marble; two of which, the celebrated Balbi, have been already described. Oppo- site to the entrance, and elevated upon three steps, was a statue of the Emperor Yespasian ; and on 260 ENVIRONS OF NAPLES— HERCULANEUM, [ch. xi. each side a figure in a curule chair : in the wall were niches adorned with paintings, and bronze statues of Nero and Germanicus : there likewise were other statues in the portico. This Forum was connected, by means of a colon- nade, with two Temples, in form rectangular ; and one of them a hundred and fifty feet long ; the interior part being ornamented with columns, frescos and inscrip- tions in bronze; and near these edifices was an open Theatre , ca- pable of containing ten thousand spectators, and the only building now discoverable; all the other excavationshaving been filled up. By a passage close to the Pea- sant’s Well we descended into this Theatre. The front of the stage seems to have been deco- rated with columns, statues, etc., all of which are taken away, two inscriptions excepted. The Pro- scenium was found entire ; and is a hundred and thirty feet long. Part of the stage, and the base of one of the columns of flowered ala- baster, with which it was adorned, were likewise discovered ; and in front of the stage, according to De la Lande, were bronze statues of the Muses. Fragments al- so were found of bronze horses, supposed to have decorated the top of the wall which terminated the seats. All, how- ever, which we were able to dis- cern was the Stage, the Orchestra, the Consular Seats, and Prosce- nium ; together with the Corri- dors or lobbies ; some parts of which exhibit beautiful Arabes- ques, and Stucco stained with the dark red colour already mention- 1 We gave six carlini between the two Guides who accompanied us down inlo Hercu- laneum. 2 The pictures found in Herculaneum and ed : we likewise saw the impres- sion of a human Face on the ceil- ing of one of the lobbies. This theatre appears to have been lined with Parian marble, and built about the same time with that at Verona, after the designs of Nu- misius. Persons who are fearful of en- countering a damp and oppressive atmosphere, should not venture down into Herculaneum ; espe- cially as there is, in the Studii, a model of this city ; which, in its present state, apeared to us more calculated to appal than please; particularly when we heard the carriages at Porlici rolling over our heads like thunder, and felt conscious of being buried our- selves eighty feet deep in lava. 1 From Herculaneum we pro- ceeded to the Museum at Portici ; which, being a part of the royal Palace, cannot be seen without an order from the Lord High Steward. This Museum consists chiefly of Paintings found in Her- culaneum and Pompeii : and judg- ing from the beauty of the compo- sition, and the unskilfulness of the execution, many persons think that several of them are copies, done by common house-painters, from the most renowned pictures of antiquity. The composition of Apollo and the Muses (now, I believe, in Paris), is said to be so exquisite, that were an artist to study for years he could not change any one fold in the drapery to ad- vantage ; and the execution is said to be so bad, that more than an hour could not have been em- ployed upon each figure. 2 The subjects of the most celebrated Pompeii, except those done on marble, and now in the Studii at Naples, were all painled on the walls of private houses and public edifices; and, according to the opinion of MUSEUM OF PORTICI. 261 CH. XI.] Paintings are supposed to be— Nymph (Zeuxis is supposed to Dido abandoned by ./Eneas! — the have invented female Centaurs) seven days of the week, repre- — a female Centaur and a Youth ; sented by the seven planets — The- she holds a cymbal of gilt bronze; seus with the Minotaur dead at the thrones of Mars and Venus, his feet— Hercules and Telephus with their attributes, are in the — Telephus suckled by a deer, same picture ! — Boys making or Latinus, son of Faunus, King wine; this painting exhibits an of the Aborigines, an allegorical ancient wine-press — Boys engaged painting relative to the origin of in other occupations — a Naval the Romans — the Centaur, Chi- Combat, ill done, but curious, ron, teaching Achilles to strike because it exhibits ancient gal- the lyre, ascribed to Parrhasius ; leys, and the mode of fighting though, more probably, copied them — a Landscape with trees, from a work by that artist ! — and a temple ; in the centre of Hercules strangling the serpents which last is a buckler ornament- sent by Juno to destroy him — ed with the head of Medusa ; it Iphigenia discovering Orestes — being an ancient custom to sus- Orestes and Py lades chained, and pend votive bucklers in public conducted, by the soldiers of King edifices — an Egyptian landscape Thoas, before the statue of Diana — a Crocodile hunt — Crocodiles — a Parrot drawing a car, and a and Hippopotami — (from the lat- Grasshopper driving ; supposed ter, says Pliny, man learnt the to be a copy from Zeuxis, who art of bleeding himself, as this was famous for these whimsical animal, when too full of blood, subjects! — a Faun and a Bac- presses its foot against pointed chante — small pictures of Rope- reeds, by which means the ope- dancers, Bacchantes, etc., one of ration is performed) — The edu- whom holds a musical instrument cation of Bacchus, supposed to used by the Neapolitans to this be the copy of a fine original ! — » day— a Bacchante carried off by Iphigenia ready for sacrifice, sup- a Centaur — another Centaur car- posed likewise to be the copy of rying off a Youth — small paint- a fine original!— a Bacchanalian ings representing Children en- ceremony, in which three figs are gaged in various occupations — • offered to the god; the number quadrupeds, birds, fishes, fruits, three being sacred, and typical etc. — a female Centaur with a among the heathens — a garden; Winckelmann, not much more ancient than much slower advance toward perfection than the Augustan age— at which period Painting did Sculpture: because the latter, from its was in its wane. This art, though the off- birth, became a necessary appendage to hea- spring of Sculpture, did not take birth till then worship ; whereas the former did not after its parent had reached maturity ; for acquire the privilege of entering consecrated the Jupiter of Pliidias, and the Juno of Po- edifices till alter it had reached its meridian, lycletes, deemed chefs-d'oeuvre of Sculpture, In course of time, however, some of the Gre- exisled before the invention of Painting, cian temples became Pinacothec® ; and, at Apollodorus and his disciple Zeuxis, who Rome, the works of celebrated painters were flourished in the fifteenth Olympiad, were exhibited in the Temple of Peace : hut it the first painters who distinguished them- does not appear that the pictures of heathen selves in the style called clair-obscur : and deities were ever adored like llieir statues; Euphranor, the contemporary of Praxiteles, and, consequently, there is reason to suppose and consequently posterior to Zeuxis, is sup- that Painting, from want of the same encou- posed to have enriched the growing art by rageuient, did not arrive, in ancient days, at the introduction of symmetry, shading, and the same height of perfection with Sculpture, perspective. Painting, nevertheless, made a 262 MUSEUM OF PORTICI. [ch. xL (it is curious to observe in this and other pictures that the an- cient Roman gardens were pre- cisely what Italian gardens are now.) — Four pictures in one, namely, a hare and a fowl, a pheasant and two apples, three birds and some mushrooms, two partridges and three fishes : (the hare, by ancient epicures, was deemed the best quadruped, and the thrush the best bird) — Diana ! — a Citharist, supposed to be Sappho, near whose left ear is a flower, the sign of a lady of plea- sure — Hylas and Ganymede, the latter of whom holds a fan of pea- cock’s feathers, which fans were used by the great people of anti- quity to chase away flies; and are still carried in grand processions at Rome, to hinder those trouble- some insects from annoying the Pope — a Woman looking at her- self in a mirror of yellow metal (Pliny, however, mentions mir- rors of green glass, the first of which was made at Sidon : Nero had an emerald mirror. The Ro- man ladies are said to have car- ried these mirrors always about them ; it likewise appears that they used false hair, false teeth, false eye-brows and eye-lashes, pomatum, rouge, and white paint ; and they frequently stained their hair.) — A young Female with light hair, the sign of a lady of pleasure — Bacchus — the Grecian horse brought into Troy — mar- kets, shops, and schools, situated under porticos, as was the custom in Greece and Rome — a two- wheeled carriage, for the convey- ance of baggage, with a postilion on one of the horses, a mule sad- dled, and a blind man conducted by a dog— a man riding one, and guiding three horses — (the Ro- mans frequently used to ride two, and even four horses at once, leaping from one to the other with extraordinary agility.) — Five Etruscan Priests, three of whom are crowned with tiaras, the High Priest’s being gold — Peace or Pe- leus, supposed to have invented the poniard — a Female seated, with two lyres and a garland, the lyre being significant of harmony, union, and conjugal love, perhaps because the Muse Erato is said to have instituted marriage — a thea- trical representation of a Man in a scoffing mask making horns, and showing them to a woman who hides her face ; this was the custom of the Greeks — two paint-* ings of theatrical representations, in one of which is a Youth in a half-mask ; the only thing of the kind yet discovered — a Poet, sup- posed to be JEschylus, dictating a drama to the tragic Muse — Psyche and a winged Genius, with a shoe on his head and another in his hand, both resembling ours of the present day* — an Egyptian temple— the worship of Osiris — a caricature of the Caesars, repre- senting iEneas, his father and son, as impure deities with dogs’ heads. Drawing in caricature seems to have been common among the an- cients, who frequently compared men to, and represented them under the forms of, beasts . 1 Several of these paintings have lately been removed to the Studii at Naples ; whither, according to report, it is the intention of the NeapolitanGovernment to remove the whole. 1 The Cusloie of this Museum expects from three to six carlini, according to the size of the party he attends. 263 ce. «.] DESTRUCTION OF TORRE-DEL-GRECO. EXCURSION TO POMPEII. We made the same bargain with respect to our carriage as when we went to Caserta ; for though Pompeii is only thirteen miles and a half distant from Naples, the latter excursion requires more time than the former. We look with us a cold dinner, wine, plates, knives, forks, glasses, etc. as no- thing, except water, can be pro- cured at Pompeii. The road lies through Portici, Torre-del-Greco, and Torre del Annunziata ; in the way to the first of which, is the Ponte Maddalena, under whose arches passes the Sebeto, anciently Sebethus. The com- mencement of this drive exhibits gardens and vineyards of the most luxuriant description : but, near Torre-del-Greco , almost the whole country has been laid waste by streams of lava, which, during the summer of 1794, destroyed that town and its vicinity. Vesu- vius had for some time ceased to vomit fire and smoke as usual ; a circumstance that generally pre- sages mischief : and late in the evening of Thursday, June the 42th, the inhabitants were alarm- ed by a sudden and violent shock of an earthquake, which was thrice repeated, continuing each time about three minutes and as many seconds. This first cala- mity produced a general conster- nation ; insomuch that the people fled from their houses into their gardens, and thence to the sea- side, where they passed the night in dreadful alarm. Next morning processions of men, women, and children were seen barefooted in the streets of Naples, proceeding to the Cathedral, to implore the protection of S. Gennaro. From Thursday till Sunday the weather was tempestuous, the air hot, loaded with vapours, and, at in- tervals, suddenly darkened for some minutes ; during which pe- riod there were several slight shocks of an earthquake, attend- ed by a rumbling sound, like dis- tant thunder. On Sunday even- ing the inhabitants were again alarmed by a noise so violent that it resembled a continual discharge of cannon ; when, in a moment, burst forth a volcano, not in the crater on the summit of Vesu- vius, but toward the middle of the mountain on the western side. The explosion made every edifice tremble in Torre-del-Greco, which is only five horizontal miles from this new volcano, at whose mouth issued a column of smoke, that continually mounted, and increas- ed in magnitude, till it formed it- self into the shape of an immense pine. This column was some- times clearly distinguished ; and at others obscured by ashes : it continued augmenting rapidly in circumference, till at length it be- gan to decline downward ; when, from the quantity of dense mat- ter which composed the column being much heavier than the air, the former, of course, fell to the ground. Torrents of flaming lava, of a portentous magnitude, now poured down the mountain, principally in two directions ; one stream, of about a mile in breadth, bending its destructive course to- ward Torre-del-Greco, a town said to contain eighteen thousand persons, the other taking the di- rection of Resina ; while several small rivulets of liquid fire were observed in divers places. Torre- del-Greco soon fell a prey to the lava ; which, in its progress, de- solated the whole hill leading down from Vesuvius, sweeping 264 DESTRUCTION OF TORRE-DEL-GRECO. [ch. m. away every house, so that the ter- rified inhabitants were compelled to abandon their all, and lake re- fuge in Naples. At length, the lava, after three hours’ devasta- tion, ran into the sea ; on whose banks, for one-third of a square mile, it raised itself a bed from fif- teen to twenty Neapolitan palmi 1 above the level of the water, and as much, if not more, above the level of the streets of Torre-del- Greco. The reflection from this torrent of lava illuminated the whole city of Naples, and filled its inhabitants with dread t while the other torrent, which flowed toward Resina, on arriving at the gate, divided itself into three streams, one running between the gate and the Convent de’ Padri Francescani ; the second to the Piazza ; and the third to the Con- vent del Carmine, near Torre del Annunziata. Wherever the lava ran it covered the country with a crust from twenty to thirty palmi deep : in and about Resina it left, for a short time, some few iso- lated buildings, namely, the Pa- lazzo-Brancaccia, the Chiesa de’ Marinari, and the Convent de’ Francescani ; but these soon caught fire ; and five women, with one old man, after vainly ringing the church and convent- 1 A Neapolitan palrno is rather more than ten English inches. 2 1 cannot dismiss this subject without mentioning an extraordinary circumstance which occurred at Pienza, near Siena, just before the destruction of Torre-deJ-Greco. Professor Santi of Pisa (a gentleman whose name I have already mentioned) resided at Pienza when this circumstance happened ; and to him I was obliged for the following particulars, which may serve to rescue many ancient historians from the reproach of cre- dulity. On the 16th of June a dark and dense cloud was discovered at a great height above the horizon, coming from the south-east, that is, In the direction of Vesuvius, which may be about two hundred horizontal miles distant from Pienza. At this height the cloud was heard to issue noises like the discharge of bells for assistance, saved them- selves by flight. The Palazzo- Caracciolo now fell a prey to the flames, as did every other build- ing in the neighbourhood of Re- sina, till the whole surrounding plain exhibited one vast sheet of lava. The town of Torre-del- Greco likewise was completely buried ; some few tops of the loftiest buildings excepted ; while every part of the country through which the lava ran became a de- sert ; the trees being thrown down, the houses razed, and the ground, for many miles distant, covered with cinders and ashes ; which last lay about one finger deep in Naples. On the sixteenth of June the air was so dense as nearly to obscure the mountain ; but, next day, the fire made it- self new channels ; which circum- stance might, probably, be the preservation of several fine build- ings near Resina. 3 The approach from Torre del Annunziata to Pompeii is through the Suburb anciently called Pa- gus Augustus Felix , and built on each side of the Via-Appia, which, from the commencement of this Suburb to the Herculaneum-Gate, is flanked by a double row of Tombs. Pompeii appears to have been several batteries of cannon ; it then burst into flames ; at which moment fell a shower of stones for seven or eight miles round; while the cloud gradually vanished. These stones are volcanic, being composed of grey lava, resembling what is found on Vesuvius; and Mr. Santi, who took infinite pains to in- vestigate this phenomenon, felt confident that the cloud rose from Vesuvius, which was at that moment disgorging fires whose force and effects cannot be calculated : it could not have arisen from Radicofani; because, though this mountain is one continued mass of volcanic rocks, which bespeak it the offspring of sub- terranean fire, and though it has been some- times visited by dreadful earthquakes, still neither history nor even tradition records that it ejected flames, smoke, or vapour, at any period whatsoever. on. xr.] POMPEII. 265 populous and handsome : it was situated near the mouth of the Sarnus (now' called Sarno), and the walls which surrounded the city were above three miles in circumference, and are supposed to have been originally washed by the sea, though now about one mile distant from its margin. Pompeii (as already mentioned), was buried under ashes and pu- mice-stones, and at the same time 1 deluged with boiling water, dining the year 79, and accidentally dis- covered by some peasants in 1750, while they were employed in culti- vating a vineyard near the Sarno. The excavation of Herculaneum was attended with much more ex- pense than that of Pompeii, be- cause the ashes and pumice-stones which entombed the latter were not above fifteen feet deep, and so easy was it to remove them, that the Pompeians who survived the eruption of the year 79, evidently disinterred and took away a large portion of their moveable wealthy though, generally speaking, they I seem to have made no efforts to- ward repairing the mischief done to their houses ; an extraordinary circumstance, as the roofs only were destroyed. 1 The most in- teresting parts, hitherto restored to light, of this ill-fated city, have been disinterred by the French, who uncovered its Walls, Amphi- theatre, Forum -Civile, Basilica, and adjoining Temples, together with the double row of Mausolea, on the outside of the Hercula- neum-Gate. Still, however, se- veral streets remain buried, but excavations are going on daily ; and, were a thousand labourers ; employed, it is supposed that the 1 Suetonius says, lliat Titus endeavoured to repair the devastation made by Vesuvius whole town might be uncovered in a twelvemonth. The streets are straight, and paved with lava, having on each side a raised footway, usually com- posed of pozzolana and small pieces of brick or marble. The Via Appia (which traverses the town , and extends toBr undusium , ) is broad, but the other streets are narrow ; carriage -wheels have worn traces in their pavement, and judging from these traces, it ap- pears that the distance between the wheels of ancient carriages was not four feet. The houses hitherto excavated are, generally speaking, small; most of them, however, were evidently the habi- tations of shopkeepers : but those few which belonged to persons of a higher class, were usually adorn- ed with a vestibule, supported by columns of brick, each house pos- sessing an open quadrangle, with a supply of water for domestic purposes in its centre ; and on the sides of the quadrangle, and be- hind it, were baths and dressing- rooms, sitting-rooms, bed-cham- bers, the chapel which contained the Lares, the kitchen, larder, wine-cellar, etc., none of which appear to have had much light, except what the quadrangle af- forded, there being, toward the streets, no windows. The walls of every room are composed of tufo and lava, stuccoed, painted, and polished, but the paintings iu the large houses are seldom supe- rior in merit to those in the shops ; perhaps, however, the ancient mode of painting houses, like that now practised in Italy, was with machines called stampi ; which enable the common house-painted at Pompeii: but, if he succeeded, subsequent eruptions demolished his work. 2 A 266 POMPEII. [ch. xi. to execute almost any figure or pattern upon fresco walls. The ceilings are arched, the roofs flat, and but few houses have two sto- ries. The windows, like those in Herculaneum, appear to have been provided with wooden shutters, and some of them were furnished with glass, which seems to have been thick and not transparent, while others are supposed to have been glazed either with horn or talc. Every apartment is paved with mosaics ; and on the outside of the houses, written with red E aint, are the names of the inha- itants, with their occupations, including magistrates, and other persons of rank : so that if the stucco on which these names were written had been well preserved, we should, at the present moment, have known to whom each house in Pompeii originally belonged. All the private houses are num- bered : and on the exterior walls of public edifices are proclamations, advertisements, and notices with respect to festivals, gladiatorial shows, etc. The public edifices were spacious and elegant, and the whole town was watered by the Sarno, which seems to have been carried through it by means of subterranean canals. I w ill now mention the objects best worth notice, as they lie con- tiguous to each other. Villa of Diomedes. The first building disentombed at Pompeii was this Villa, the skeleton of whose master, Marcus Arrius Dio- medes, was found here, with a key in one hand, and gold ornaments and coins in the other. Behind 1 One of the apartments in the Villa of Diomedes has windows looking toward the garden. 2 A Triclinium means the place where lhe him was found another skeleton, probably that of his servant, with vases of silver and bronze ; and in three subterranean Corridors, which appear to have been used as cellars, seventeen skeletons were discovered, one of which, adorned with gold ornaments, is conjectured to have been the mis- tress of the Villa, and the others her family. This edifice has two stories. On the ground-floor are several rooms nearly in their ori- ginal state, as are the Garden and the Cellars, the first of which is surrounded with Colonnades, and has a Pergola and a reservoir for water in its centre ; the latter, wherein the seventeen skeletons were found, contain wine-jars, filled with, and cemented to the walls by ashes. The upper story exhibits Paintings, mosaic pave- ments, hot and cold Baths, with Furnaces for heating water. Part of the ancient Roof of this Villa is likewise preserved: and, on the opposite side of the Via Appia, are the Tombs of the Family of Diomedes. 1 2 Building appropriated to the Silicernium after funerals. This is a small Structure (on the right, between the V ilia of Diomedes and the Herculaneum-Gate) ; its inte- rior was stuccoed and adorned with paintings (now obliterated) of birds, deer, and other ancient emblems of death ; it contains a Triclinium, or eating table, where- on the Silicernium, or funeral repast, was served. 3 There are places for three mattresses round this table, and in the wall was a recess, where probably the bust Greeks end Romans reposed on mattresses while they ate ; and was so called tecause it held three mattresses only. oh. xi. 1 POMPEII. 267 of the deceased might be exhibit- ed to the guests. The recess is now destroyed. Repository for the ashes of the clead. This edifice, wherein the ashes of persons who had not pri- vate tombs are supposed to have been deposited, has, on its sum- mit, an ornament shaped like an altar, and adorned with bassi - rilievi emblematical of death. Semicircular roof ed Seat. On the left side of the Yia Appiais a deep Recess, decorated with stucco ornaments : it seems to have been a covered seat for foot-passengers ; and here were found the skeletons of a mother with her infant in her arms, and two other children near her. Three gold rings (one being in the form of a serpent) , and two pair of ear-rings, enriched with line pearls, were found among these skeletons. Opposite to this semicircular seat, and at a small distance from the Yia Appia, are ruins of a Yilla supposed to have i belonged to Cicero. Inn. This appears to have been a large building, provided with horses, carriages, etc. ; and situated on the outside of the city, because Strangers were not per- mitted to sleep within its walls. Remainsof the wheels of carriages, the skeleton of a donkey, and a piece of bronze, resembling a horse’s bit, were found here. Columbarium , called the Tomb I of the Gladiators. This Sepul- chre, which stands on the right of the Yia Appia, particularly merits notice ; because its interior is per- fect, and contains a considerable number of places (shaped like pigeon-holes) for cinerary urns. Semicircular Seat , not roofed. On the back of this Seat is the following inscription, in capital letters; as, indeed, are all the in* scriptions at Pompeii : “ Mam- mle P. F. Sacerdoti Pvblicae Locvs Sepvltvrae Datvs De- cvrionvm Decreto. ” Behind the Seat stands the Tomb of Mammia, which appears to have been handsomely built, and ele- gantly ornamented. Further on, near the Herculaneum-Gate, is another semicircular Bench ; and to the left of the Yia Appia, on the outside of the Gate , is a Path leading to a Sally-Port; by the steps of which it is easy to ascend to the lop of the Piamparts. Herculaneum- Gate. T here were four entrances to Pompeii, namely, the Herculaneum-Gate ; the Sarno, or Sea-Gate; the Isiac-Gate, (so called because near the Temple of Isis) ; and the Nola-Gate : all of which entrances were apparently devoid of architectural decora- tions, and composed of bricks, stuccoed. The Herculaneum-^ Gate is divided into three parts : the middle division, through which passes the Yia Appia, is supposed to have been for car- riages ; and one of the side entrances, for foot-passengers coming into the city ; while the other was appropriated to foot- passengers going out of it. The Yia Appia is about twelve feet wide, and composed of large vol- canic stones of various shapes and sizes, fixed deep into a particular- ly strong cement. The footways on either side of this street are be- tween two and three feet in width. Post-House. This is the first Building on the right, within the Gate : and as Augustus estab- lished posts, or what was tanta- mount, on all the Consular roads, making Pompeii one of the sta- tions, this building probably was a Post-House : several pieces o! ; 268 POMPEII. feu. xi. iron, shaped like the tire of wheels, were found here. In a House on the opposite side of the way are a Triclinium, and some Paintings which merit notice. Building commonly called a Coffee-House ; l but more proba- bly a Thermopolium , or Shop , for hot medicated potions. Here we find a Stove ; and likewise a marble Dresser, with marks upon it, evidently made either by cups or glasses ; and consequently the contents of these cups, or glasses, when spilt, must have been (as medicated draughts frequently are) corrosive. On the opposite side of the Street is a House which, according to an inscription nearly obliterated, belonged to a person named Albinus : and several amu- lets, representing birds, tortoises, dolphins, and other fishes, in gold, silver, coral, and bronze, were found here. 2 Adjoining is ano- ther Thermopolium. House of Caius Ceius. This Edifice, which stands opposite to a Fountain, and is now occupied by Soldiers, appears to have con- tained public Baths. Not far dis- tant is an Edifice, adorned with a Pavement of fine marble, and a good Mosaic, representing a Lion. This quarter of the town likewise contains subterranean Structures, wherein the citizens ofPompeii are supposed to have assembled, dur- ing very hot or rainy weather, to i Coffee is a native of Africa, supposed ta have been unknown to the Greeks and Ro- mans ; and not being mentioned by any Eu- ropean writers engaged in the Crusades, it seems to have been equally unknown in Syria, during the thirteenth and fourteenth centu- ries. It is found wild, from Caffa, the south province of Narea, in Africa, to the banks of the Nile ; and was first brought from Arabia into Eui'ope about the middle of the fifteenth century. It was used at Grand Cairo early in the sixteenth century ; and first mentioned in the West of Europe by a German traveller, who returned from Syria in 1573. Pietro della ■Valle, a Venetian, says, in a letter of his, that transact business. This descrip- tion of building was called a Cryp- to-Porticus ; and usually adorned with columns; and furnished with baths and reservoirs for water. House called the Habitation of the Vestals. Here, according to appearance, were Three Habi- tations under the same roof ; and likewise^ Chapel, with a place for the sacred fire in its centre; and, in its walls, three Recesses for the Lares. On the Door-sill of one of the apartments is the word, “ Salve” (fVelcomef wrought in mosaic : another Door-sill is ad- orned with two Serpents, also wrought in mosaic. A room of very small dimensions has, in the centre of its pavement, a Laby- rinth, or table for playing at an ancient game; and the pavement of another room exhibits a Cornu- copia. The skeletons of a man and a little dog were found here : and in the apartment called the Toletta, several gold ornaments for ladies were discovered. Not far distant is an edifice which ap- pears to have been an Anatomical Theatre ; as upwards of forty chi- rurgical instruments, some resem- bling those of the present day, and others quite different, were found within its walls. Ponderarium, or Custom-House. Here were found a considerable number of weights, scales, and steelyards, similar to those now in he intended bringing some of it to Venice, where he thought it was unknown. This berry, which has now made its way through the whole civilized world, was first brought inlo France during the year 1644 ; and in 167 1 a coffee-house was opened at Marseilles. In 1652, Daniel Edwards, an English mer- chant, brought with him,, from Turkey, a Greek servant who understood the method of roasting and making coffee : and this servant was the first person who sold it publicly in London. 2 The Ancients wore amulets round their necks, to preserve themselves from witch- craft. ch» xi.] POMPEII. 269 use at Naples ; together with one weight of twenty-two ounces, representing the figure of Mer- cury. Near the Ponderarium is an Edifice which, judging by the materials discovered there, seems to have been a Soap- Manufactory ; and not far distant are two Shops for hot medicated potions. Public Baking-House. This Building contains an Oven ; toge- ther wth Mills for pulverizing corn. Shops of a similar descrip- tion abound in Pompeii. Wine and Oil Shop. The Vessels which contained wine and oil may still be seen here, and in many other Shops of the same kind. Here likewise are Stoves ; with which these Shops seem usu- ally to have been furnished ; per- haps for the purpose of boiling wine. 1 House of Caius Sallust. Con- tiguous to the Wine and Oil Shop is one of the largest Houses yet discovered at Pompeii; and, ac- cording to the Inscription on its outside-wall, once the abode of Caius Sallust. Here is a Triclini- um, with places where mattresses appear to have been spread for the family to lie down while they ate. This Triclinium is in the back part of the House ; and, in an- other part, is a tolerably well pre- served picture of Diana and Ac- tion ; and likewise a small room, paved with African marbles, and adorned with a picture of Mars, Venus, and Cupid, well preserved, and executed in a style much su- perior to the generality of frescos found at Pompeii. In the Lara- rium, or Chapel for the Lares, a small statue was discovered ; as were some coins, and a gold vase, weighing three ounces : bronze 1 The Ancienls, according to Cluverius, v ere iu the habit oi boiling their wines. vases likewise were found in this house : and four skeletons, five armlets, two rings, two ear-rings, a small siver dish, a candelabrum, several bronze vases, and thirty- two coins, were found in its vici- nity. Academy of Music. This Edi- fice appears to have been spacious ; and its Quadrangle is ornamented with a painting of two Serpents twined round an Altar, above which is a Lararium. The large rooms exhibit paintings repre- senting musical instruments ; and a piece of iron, which apparen. belonged to a musical instrument, was discovered here. House of Pansa. This is a good house, handsomely decorated with marbles and mosaics. In the centre of its Quadrangle are a Well and a small Reservoir for fish; and in its Kitchen a Fire- Place, resembling what we find in modern Italian kitchens, and Paintings representing a spit, a ham, an eel, and other eatables. Here were found several culinary utensils, both of earthenware and bronze ; and not far hence is a Shop, wherein a variety of colours, prepared for fresco-painting, were discovered. 2 Forum Chile. This is a very large oblong Piazza, which ap- pears to have been bordered with magnificent Porticos, supported by a double row of tufo and traver- tino columns, and paved with marble. One entrance to this Forum is through two Archways, the use of which is not apparent. Beyond the second Archway on the left, are remains of a Temple, supposed to have been consecrated to Jupiter, because a fine head of that heathen deity was found 2 These Colours are now placed in tlie Sludii at Naples- 2 A 2 270 POMPEII. [ch. xi. there. Several steps, now shaken to pieces by earthquakes, lead to the Vestibule of this Temple, which seems to have been quadrilateral, spacious, and handsome, and its Celia is elegantly paved; with mo- saics. 1 On the right of these Ruins stands the Temple of Venus, exhi- biting beautiful remains of its ori- ginal splendour. The shape of the edifice is quadrilateral ; its dimen- sions are large, and its walls ad- orned with paintings. The Celia, which stands on fifteen steps, is paved with mosaics ; and in a con- tiguous apartment is a well-pre- served painting of Bacchus and Silenus. Here likewise is a small Recess, supposed to have been a Lararium. The lower part of the Temple contains a Herma, resem- bling a Vestal, together with an Altar (or perhaps the basis of the statue of Venus), which seems to have slid from its proper place, in consequence of an earthquake. The steps leading to the Celia have the same appearance, and all the edifices in this part of Pompeii must have suffered more from the earthquake which preceded the eruption of the year 79, than from that eruption itself, as the repairs going on at the very moment of that eruption evidently prove. Beyond the Temple of Venus, and fronting the Via Appia, stands the Basilica, or principal Court of Justice, a majestic structure, of a quadrilateral form, in length a hundred and ninety feet, and in, breadth seventy-two. The walls are adorned with Corinthian pilas- ters ; and the centre of the build- ing exhibits a double row of Co- 1 Behind the Archways near this Temple are paintings representative of Mars and Juno;, a circumstance which induces some persons to suppose it was consecrated to the iatter. 2 Antiquaries conjecture, that immediately after the eruption of the year 79, the inha- rinthian columns, twenty-eight in number. The Tribunal for the judges, which stands at the upper end of the Court, is considerably elevated, and has, immediately beneath it, a subterranean apart- ment, supposed to have been a pri- son. In the court, and fronting the Tribunal, is a large Pedestal, evi- dently intended to support an equestrian statue : and on an out- side wall of this structure (that wall which fronts the house of Ghampionet), the word “ Basi- lica.” may be discovered, in two places, written with red paint. Beyond the Basilica, and fronting the Temple of Jupiter, are three large edifices, supposed to have been dedicated to public uses, and that in the centre was evi- dently unfinished, or repairing, when buried by the eruption of 79. On the side of the Forum, and opposite to the Basilica, are edifices resembling Temples ; one of which, supposed to have been consecrated to Mercury, contains a beautiful Altar, adorned with bassi-rilievi representing a sacri- fice. Marbles of various sorts, ap- parently prepared for new build- ings, together with a Pedestal which seems, from the inscrip- tion it bears, to have supported the statue of Q. Sallust, and an- other Pedestal, inscribed with the letters “ C. Cvspjo C. F. Pansjs,” occupy the centre of the Piazza : and, judging, from marks in the pavement, the entrance to this Forum was occasionally closed, with gates of bronze or iron. 2 House of Championet , so called because excavated by a French bitants of Pompeii disentombed the Forum Civile, and took away all its best statues and other decorations; a circumstance which would easily account for the small number of moveable treasures found there by modern excavators. POMPEII. CH. XI.] General of that name. This Ha- bitation appears to have suffered considerably from the earthquake of the year 63 : it has a Vestibule paved with mosaics, and, in the centre of its quadrangle, a Reser- voir for the rain-water which fell an its roof; this Reservoir ap- pears to have had a covering. At the back of the house is another Vestibule : and under the sitting- rooms and bed-chambers (all of which are paved with mosaics, and more or less decorated with paintings), are subterranean Of- fices, a rare thing at Pompeii. Skeletons of females, with rings, bracelets, and a considerable number of coins, were found in this house. Cryp to-Porticws, and Chalet - dicum, built by Eumachia . In the Via Appia, and near the Fo- rum Civile, over the entrance to what seems to have been a co- vered passage, is the following in- scription : “ Eumachia. L. F. Sacerd. Pnhl. Nomine Suo et M. Numistr. I Frontonis. Fiii. Chaici- dicum Cryptam Porticos Concordiae August® Pictati sua Pecunia Fecit Eademaque Dedi- e earit.” Just beyond this Passage, and leading to what appears to have been a Chalcidicum, is the Statue of a Female in a Vestal’s dress, with the following inscription on the pedestal : “ Eumachi®; L. F. Sacerd. Pnhl. Fullones.” This statue still remains on the spot where it was discovered in the summer of 1820 ; and, judging from the inscription, it seems that Eumachia, a public Priestess, built, at her own expense, in her own name, and that of another t The Tomb of Eumachia stands just be- yond the Walls ot Pompeii, near the iJer- 27 1 person, a Chalcidicum and Crypto- Porticus, and likewise paid for having them consecrated to the use of the Pompeian washerwo- men, by whom, as a token of gra- titude, her statue was erected. The Chalcidicum (a spacious Piazza), was adorned with Colonnades elevated on steps, some parts of which are cased wit h white marble , and other parts unfinished : but the marble slabs, prepared for casing the unfinished parts, were discovered on an adjacent spot, where they may still be seen. The centre of the Chalcidicum evident- ly contained a large sheet of wa- ter, in which were several Wash- ing-Blocks, cased with white mar- ble; these Blocks, and the Channel through which the water was con- veyed into this spacious basin, still remain, as does a small Temple, fronting the Forum Ci- vile, from which there seems to have been an entrance into the Chalcidicum. 1 Continuation of the Via Ap- pia. On each side of this Street are- Shops and other buildings, which exhibit the names and oc- cupations of the persons by whom they were once inhabited : these names, etc., written with red paint; and the Wall, fronting the Via Appia, and belonging to the Chalcidicum, displays the ordi- nances of the magistrates, the days- appointed for festivals, etc., like- wise written with red paint. Here are Bakers’ Shops, containing Mills for pulverizing corn; Oil and Wine Shops; a House adorn- ed with pictures of heathen divi- nities ; and another House ele- gantly painted, and supposed to have belonged to a Jeweller. Iii this Street, and likewise in other culancum Gate, and appears to hare beem erected by the public. 272 POMPEII. [cs. xr. parts of the town, are several up to it. The platform still re- Fountains, which were supplied mains, and is ninety feet long, by by water brought in a canal from about sixty feet wide. Traces of the Sarno : and at the lower end gigantic Columns also remain ; of the Street, near the Portico and beyond the Platform, and leading to the Tragic Theatre, nearly fronting the east, are three was found, in 1812, a skeleton, Altars : that in the centre is small, supposed to be the remains of a and probably held the sacred fire ; Priest of Isis, with a large quan- those on the sides are large, low, lity of coins, namely, three hun- and shaped like sarcophagi : the dred and sixty pieces of silver, latter kind of altar, called Ara , forty-two of bronze, and eight being, when sacrifices were made of gold, wrapped up in cloth so to the terrestrial deities, the place strong as not to have perished dur- on which the victim was burnt.’ ing more than seventeen centu- Behind these Altars is a Recep- ries. Here likewise were found tacle for the sacred ashes ; near several silver vases, some of them the Temple is a Burial-place, and evidently sacrificial, and belonging on the left, a semicircular Bench, to the Temple of Isis ; small silver decorated with lions’ claws carved spoons, cups of gold and silver, a in tufo : it resembles the seats near valuable cameo, rings, silver bas - the Herculaneum Gate. si-rilievi , etc. Upper entrance to the Tragic Portico ornamented with six Theatre. This wall has been re- Columns of Tufo. The Capitals stored, and, beyond it, are steps of the Columns which supported leading down to the Postscenium this Portico appear to have been of the Tragic Theatre ; and like- handsome, and its front, accord- wise to the Forum Nundinarium ; ing to an inscription on a Pedes- so called because a market was tal that still remains, was adorned held there every ninth day. Not with the statue of Marcus Clau- far hence was the great Reservoir dius Marcellus, son of Caius, Pa- of the water of the Sarno, which tron of Pompeii. The statue, supplied the lower part of the however, has not been found. Be- city, and particularly the Forum 1 1 is Portico is a long Co- Nundinarium. leading to the Tragic Tribunal, or Curia of Pom- peii. This is an oblong Court, Theatre. Temple of Hercules. This surrounded by Porticos ; and con- Edifice, apparently more ancient taming a Rostrum, built of pepe- than any other Temple at Pom- rino, with steps ascending to it. peii, is said to have been thrown Tribunals were usually placed down by the earthquake of the near Forums and Theatres : and year 63, 1 rebuilt, but again de- this Tribunal is supposed to have molished in 79. The ruins prove, been erected by a family who however, that it was once a state- likewise built at their own ex- ly Doric structure, which stood pense the Tragic Theatre, and a on a quadrilateral platform, with Crypto -Porticus, in Older to a - three steps on every side leading dorn the Colony. 4 This earthquake is mentioned by Seneca, the place where sacrifices Were offered to ttie 2 The Altare, so called because high, was celestial deities. ch. «.] POMPEII. 273 Temple of Isis. It appears, from an inscription found here, that this edifice was thrown down by the earthquake of 63, and re- built by Numerals Popidius Celsi- nus. It is sixty-eight feet long by sixty feet wide; in good preser- vation, and peculiarly well worth notice : for to contemplate the altar whence so many oracles have issued, to discern the iden- tical spot where the priests con- cealed themselves, when they spoke for the statue of their god- dess, to view the secret stairs by which they ascended into the Sanctum Sanctorum ; in short, to examine the construction of a Temple more Egyptian than Greek, excites no common degree of interest. 1 This Temple is a Doric edifice, composed of bricks, stuccoed, painted, and polished. The Sanctum Sanctorum stands on seven steps (once cased with Parian marble), its form being nearly a square : its Walls, which are provided with niches for sta- tues, display, among other orna- ments in stucco, the pomegra- nate, called, in Greek, Roia , and one of the emblems of Isis. The pavement is Mosaic. Here, on two altars, were suspended the Isiac Tables : and two quadran- gular basins of Parian marble, to contain the purifying water, were likewise found here ; each stand- ing on one foot of elegant work- manship, and bearing this inscrip- tion : “ Loncinus iiYir.” On the high altar stood the statue of Isis; and immediately beneath this al- tar are apertures to the hiding- place for the priests; contiguous 1 The traffic between the Pompeians and Alexandrians is supposed to have given risa to the worship of Isis at Pompeii. 2 A profound silence was observed during Egyptian sacrifices. o The priests in these paintings are repre- to which are the secret Stairs. The lower end of the Temple, fronting the Sanctum Sanctorum, contains the Altars whereon vic- tims were burnt; together with the Receptacles for their ashes, and the Reservoir for the purify- ing water. A figure of Harpo- crates was found in a niche oppo- site to the high -altar. 2 Other parts of the Temple contain small altars, a Kitchen, in which were found culinary utensils of cr eta- cotta (containing ham-bones and remains of fishes), together with the skeleton of a priest leaning against the wall, and holding in his hand a hatchet. Here also is a Refectory, where the priests were dining at the moment of the eruption which entombed their city; and where chickens’ bones, eggs, and earthen vessels were discovered : burnt bread was likewise found here ; toge- ther with the skeletons of priests who either had not time to make their escape, or felt it a duty not to abandon their goddess. When this Temple was excavated, its walls exhibited paintings of Isis with the sistrum, Anubis with a dog’s head, priests with palm- branches and ears of corn, and one priest holding a lamp ; 3 the Hippopotamus, the Ibis, the lo- tus, dolphins, birds, and ara- besques. Most of these, however, have been removed to Naples; as have the statues of Isis, Yenus, Bacchus, Priapus, and two Egyp- tian idols, in basalt, which were likewise found here. Sacrificial Vessels of every description, can- delabra, tripods, and couches for seated with beads shaved, garments of white linen, and woven shoes, through which the feet were seen. History, however, tells us that (lie priests of Isis were obliged to walk barefooted. 274 POMPEII. [ch. xt , the gods, were also discovered in this Temple. 1 Not far hence is an Edifice, which, judging by the rings of iron found in its walls, was pro- bably the Receptacle for beasts destined to be slain on the Isiac altars. Temple of JEsculopius. The centre of this little building con- tains a large low Altar, made with tufo, and shaped like a sarcopha- gus. The Celia is placed on nine steps ; and seems, if we may judge by the traces of columns still dis- cernible, to have been covered with a roof. Here were found statues of .ZEsculapius, Hygeia, and Priapus, all in creta-cotta. Sculptor’s Shop. Several sta- tues were discovered here ; some being finished, others half finish- ed, and others only just begun. Several blocks of marble, and va- rious tools, now preserved in the Neapolitan Academy of Sculp- ture, 2 were likewise discovered here. Comic Theatre. This Edifice, built of tufo, and supposed to have been the Odeum for music, is small, but nearly perfect ; and was covered with a roof resting upon columns, between which were apertures for light. Here 1 One of these couches was made of ivory, and too much injured to admit of reparation : the other, made of hronze, has been restored ; and is now placed in the Museo-Borbonico, at Naples. 2 This Academy is under the same roof with the Museo-Borbonico. 3 The orchestra (offteiTticti) of the Greeks is supposed to have been what, in modern Continental theatres, we call the parterre ; the Proscenium seems to have been what we denominate the orchestra; the Scenium was the stage ; and the Postscenium the place where the machinery of the theatre was prepared tor’ exhibition, and where the ac- tors dressed. 4 Roofed theatres were not common among the Ancients, whose theatrical representations appear to have been exhibited by daylight. 5 Augustus, in order to prevent confusion with regard to places for the audience in are the places for the Proconsul, andYestals; the Orchestra, 3 the Proscenium, the Scenium, and the Postscenium ; together with all the Benches and Staircases lead- ing to them, for male spectators ; and another Staircase, leading to the Portico, or Gallery, round the top of the Theatre ; in which Gallery the females were placed. The Orchestra is paved with mar- ble, and exhibits the following Inscription in bronze capitals : “ M. Ocvlativs M. F. Vervs ii VlR PRO LvDIS.” and on the outside of the edifice is another Inscription, mention- ing the names of the persons at whose expense it was roofed. 4 Two admission tickets for thea- trical representations have been found at Pompeii : these tickets are circular, and made of bone ; on one of them is written 4 ‘ AICXYAOY j” and above this word is marked the Roman number, XII., with the Greek corresponding numeri- cal letters, IB, beneath it. The other ticket is numbered in a si- milar manner, and likewise mark- ed with the name of a Greek poet ; both tickets having, on the reverse side, a drawing, which represents a theatre. 5 The Odeum seems to theatres, decreed that all the different ranks of persons, in the respective cities of the Roman empire, should be provided with tickets, specifying the part of the theatre, and the number of the seat they were en- titled to occupy. This circumstance is related by Suetonius. The arrangement of the au- dience was as follows : — Persons of Consular rank and Vestals, being few in number, oc- cupied the two shortest lines of seats, close to the orchestra, and sat on portable chairs: Knights, being likewise few in number, com- pared with Plebeians, occupied the shortest lines of slone benches (these were immedi- ately behind the portable chairs) ; Plebeian men occupied the uppermost, and conse- quently the longest, lines of slone benches; while the Female part of the audience. Vestals excepted, were commanded by Augustus to occupy the portico, or gallery ; near which stood the Officers, appointed to keep order. POMPEII. ca. xi.] 275 have suffered from the earthquake of 63. Tragic Theatre. This edifice, which stands upon a stratum of very ancient lava, is much larger than the Odeum; and, in point of architecture, one of the most beau- tiful buildings in Pompeii. It was composed of tufo , lined throughout with Parian marble ; and still ex- hibits the Orchestra, the Prosce- nium, the Stage ; the Marks where Scenes, or a Curtain were fixed ; the Podium on the right of the Orchestra for the chief magistrate, where a curule chair was found ; the Podium on the left, for the Vestals, the benches for. patri- cians and knights, in the lower part of the Cavea, and those for plebeians, in the upper part ; the Entrance for patricians and knights ; the Entrance and Stairs for plebeians ; the Gallery round the top of the Theatre, for ladies ; which Gallery appears to have been fenced with bars of iron (as the holes in the marble, and the remains of lead, used for fixing the bars, may still be discovered); the Stairs of entrance to this Gal- lery, and the Blocks of Marble projecting from its Wall, so as to support the wood-work, to which, in case of rain or intense heat, an awning was fastened. 1 The Stage, judging by the niches that still remain, appears to have been adorned with statues; 2 the Pro- scenium is enclosed by dwarf walls, and divides the stage from the Orchestra and seats appropriated to the audience. This stage, like those of modern days, is more ele- vated at the upper than the lower 1 The Campanians invented awnings tor theatres, to stieiter the audience from the rays of the suu : hut were, in consequence, called effeminate; a character which still seems ap- propriate to them. end; very wide, but so shallow, that much scenery could not have been used ; although the ancients changed their scenes by aid of engines with which they turned the partition, called the scena, round at pleasure. There are three entrances for the actors, all in front; and behind the stage are remains of the Postscenium. This Theatre stands on the side of a hill, according to the cus- tom of the Greeks ; and on the summit of this hill was an exten- sive Colonnade (already men- tioned), destined, perhaps, to shel- ter the spectators in wet weather ; and likewise to serve as a public walk ; the view it commands being delightful. The Comic and Tragic Thea- tres stand near each other, and contiguous to a public Building surrounded with Colonnades, and supposed to have been The Forum Nundinarium. This Forum is of an oblong shape, and bordered by Columns of the Doric order, without bases ; the mate- rials of which they are composed being tufo stuccoed, and painted either red or yellow, as was the general practice at Pompeii. These Columns still exhibit figures in armour, and names of persons, traced, no doubt, by the ancient inhabitants of this Foruin to while away their vacant hours. Within the Colonnadesare Rooms of various dimensions, supposed to have served as Shops and Ma- gazines for merchandize ; some of the largest being about fifteen feet square: and above these rooms was a second story, which appears 2 The partition between the dressing-rooms and the stage was called the Scena ; and decorated with statues, columns, etc. for a tragedy; and, for a comedy, with cottages, aud other pastoral objects. 276 POMPEII. to have been surrounded with wooden balconies. In one room was found an apparatus for mak- ing soap; in another a mill for pulverizing corn ; and in another an apparatus for expressing oil. On the eastern side of this Fo- rum were stalls for cattle ; and in the Prison, or Guard-house, were found skeletons in the stocks, ar- mour, and the crest of a helmet adorned with a representation of the siege of Troy . 1 The square contains a Fountain of excellent water, a small ancient Table, and likewise a large modern Table, shaded by weeping willows, so as to make a pleasant dining-place in warm weather . 2 Amphitheatre . In the centre of a spacious Piazza (probably a Circus for chariot-races), stands this colossean Edifice ; which, when disentombed, was so per- fect that the paintings on the stuc- coed wall surrounding the Arena appeared as fresh as if only just finished : but, on being too sud- denly exposed to the air, the stucco cracked, and fell off; so that very few paintings now re- main. The form of this Amphi- theatre is oval ; the architecture particularly fine ; and a hand- some Arcade, once embellished with statues, the niches and in- scriptions belonging to which still remain, leads down to the prin- cipal entrance. This Arcade is paved with lava, and the statues it contained were those of C. Cus- pius Pansa, and his Son. The Amphitheatre rests upon a circu- 1 Ancient Forums were always guarded by soldiers; and therefore the place wherein the stocks and armour were found most pro- bably was the Guard-house. 2 The model of the Stocks, the Skulls of the persons whose skeletons were found in them, and some of the half-finished Sculp- [CH. XL lar subterranean Corridor of in- credible strength, as it supports all the seats. An iron railing seems to have defended the spec- tators who sat in the first row : and the entrances of the Arena appear to have been defended by iron grates. The walls of the Po- dium, when first unburied, dis- played beautiful paintings ; but, on being exposed to the air, they were destroyed, like those in the Arena. Above a flight of steps leading to the upper seats is a basso-rilievo (in marble), which represents a charioteer driving over his opponent; and above the seats is a Gallery, which was ap- propriated to female spectators : it encircles the top of the edifice ; and commands a magnificent pro- spect of Vesuvius, Castel-a-mare, the site of Stabiae, the mouth of the Sarno, and the beautiful Bay of Naples : and in the upper part of the circular Wall of this Gal- lery are Blocks of Stone, pierced to receive the Poles which sup- ported the awning . 3 Near the northern entrance to the Amphitheatre are remains of a Building furnished with a Tri- clinium ; and therefore supposed to have been the Silicernium be- longing to the edifice. City Walls. Pompeii was for- tified by double Walls built with large pieces of Tufo ; one Wall encompassing the city, the other passing through the centre of a ditch, made to strengthen the fortification : and between these Walls is the broad Platform of ture discovered in the Statuary’s Shop, are kept here. 3 Skeletons of eight lions, and one man, supposed to have been their keeper, were, according to report, discovered in this Am- phitheatre. POMPEII. CH. XI.] the Ancients, which, at Pompeii, seems to have been twenty feet in breadth. The Walls were about twenty feet high ; some parts con- sisting of smooth stones, from four to five feet square, and apparently not joined by any cement ; though placed with such shill as to re- semble one entire mass : while other parts are ill built, with rough stones of various shapes and sizes ; and were, perhaps, hastily piled together after the de- structive earthquake ol the year 63. Curious Characters are en- graved on some of those stones. The Walls were fortified with low square Towers; and the four Gates of the City stood at right angles. 1 No Traveller should neglect an opportunity of visiting Pompeii; which exhibits, even now, one of the most interesting objects in the known world : and when first dis- entombed, when skeletons were seen in the houses ; when lamps, candelabra, glass of various kinds and shapes, ornamental vases, cu- linary utensils, and even the very bread of the suffocated inhabitants were discernible ; when the Tem- ples were filled with statues of heathen deities, and adorned with all the elegant and costly embel- lishments of heathen worship, what a speculation must this city have furnished to a thinking mind ! - — and though the greater part of 277 its moveable wealth now eni iches the royal Neapolitan Museums, still to visit it, even now, is abso- lutely to live with the Ancients : and when we see houses, shops, furniture, implements of husban- dry, etc. etc., exactly similar to those of the present day, we are apt to conclude that customs and man- ners have undergone but little va- riation for the last two thousand years. The practice of consulting augurs, and that of hiring persons to weep at funerals, are still kept up in the mountainous and se- cluded parts of Tuscany ; and the Tuscan cattle, when destined for slaughter, are frequently adorned with chaplets of flowers, precisely as the Ancients used to adorn their victims for sacrifice. The Roman butchers, likewise, still wear the dress, and use the knife, of heathen sacrificing priests. The old Roman custom of not eating above one regular meal a day, and that about the ninth hour of Italy (three o’clock with us), is kept up by many of the Italians ; and, during the month of May, it is common toseepeasantsdressed, as in former times, like Pan, sa- tyrs, etc. 3 I do not, however, mean to infer, from what I have said, that the modern Greeks and Italians equal the Ancients in works of art; there being, in this respect, a considerable difference between the present race and their forefathers, 3 1 The number of skeletons hitherto found 2 In Tuscany the ancient prnct : ce of placing in Pompeii and its suburbs is said to be less herbs, eggs, and what we call a whet, upon than three hundred; a small proportion of the table before dinner, is still kept up at its inhabitants, if we may judge from an ad- hotels. verlisement found on the outside of a large is Persons who intend to enter Pompeii by private house, and importing Liial it was to the Herculaneum Gale, should, on arriving at be let for five years, together with nine bun- the Villa of Dioinedes, send their carriage and dred shops, all belonging to the same person : dinner to the Forum Nuinlinariuui ; ordering and, supposing no mistake to have arisen with tlieir driver to he in waiting there an hour respect to the import of this advertisement, before sunset, to convey h.em to the Am- how great must have been the trade, and phitheatre, and thence hack to Naples. But consequent population, of a city where one persons who drive in the first place to the individual possessed nine hundred shops! Amphitheatre, and then enter Poiupeii by 2 B 278 PjESTUM. [ch. xi . EXCURSION TO PJISTUM. The distance from Naples to Psestum is computed to be fifty- four miles; and the time em- ployed in going, with a light four- wheeled carriage and four horses, is as follows : — Hours. From Naples to Pompeii 2% Salerno 3 Eboli 3 % Psestum 3 Persons who are restricted for time may accomplish this excur- sion in two days, by ordering their Voiturin to send forward a relay of horses to take them from Salerno to Psestum : but the more eligible plan is to sleep the first night at Eboli; the second at Salerno ; and to return on the third day to Naples. The former mode of going usually costs from thirty-five to forty piastres for the horses; the latter about thirty. 1 From Salerno to Psestum there is a cross road, six or eight miles shorter than that which goes through Eboli; but not good, even during summer; and, at other seasons, impracticable. The great road from Naples to Eboli ?s excellent. Wishing to sleep the first night at Eboli, we set out as early as possible from Naples; and, on entering the valley near the Sea Gate of Pom- peii, drove through cotton plan- tations, watered, by the Sarno; the Forum Nundinarium, should send their dinner to the Villa of Diomedes ; ordering their carriage thither half an hour before sunset, as visitants are not permitted to re- main at Pompeii after the close of day. We gave to our Cicerone here one piastre— to tne person who provided us with water, a dinner- table, and benches to sit upon, five carlini— to the Custode of the Temple of Venus, two carlini— and to the Custode of the Temple which contains the new ly found Altar adorned with bassi-rilievi, one carlino. 1 An English family, consisting of six per- sons, lately paid, for an open carriage and thence proceeding to Nocera , an- ciently Nuceria , a town of high antiquity ; 2 but where nothing now remains worth notice, except the Church of Santa Maria Maggiore, 3 which is adorned with an antique Font, for the im- mersion of adults, sirrrlar to that in the Baptistery at Pisa. The Church is of an orbicular form ; it contains a double circle of Co- lumns of precious marbles ; and seems to have been originally a Temple consecrated to all the gods. From Nocera we drove through a rich vale, exhibiting picturesque scenery, to La Cava , a large town with porticos on each side of the high street, like those at Bologna, On quitting La Cava we were presented with a sight of an ancient Aqueduct , and a Villa which stands amidst hang- ing gardens at the foot of the Apennine, in a very remarkable situation. We then drove to Vietri , built on the side of a mountain in the immense and magnificent Bay of Salerno, and exhibiting views of the most beau- tiful description. Vietri (which has risen from the ashes of the ancient Marcina) is not far dis- tant from Amalfi, the Islands of the Sirens, and the Promontory of Minerva ; which all lie toward the right ; while, on the oppo- site side of the Bay, rises the ce- lebrated Promontory ofLeucosia, anciently called Promontorium four horses, only twenty-four piastres, buona- mano inclusive. They slept the first night at Salerno; paying for supper eight carlini a head, and for beds four carlini a head. The next day they visited Paestum ; remaining there five hours, and then returning to sleep at Eboli ; whence they proceeded next morn- ing to Amalfi (a water excursion, which lakes up three hours), and the same evening reached Naples. 2 Augustus founded a Roman colony here. 3 Some writers call this church the Ma- donna della Vittoria. PjESTUM. 279 CH. XI.] Posidium. From Vietri we drove between the sea and the moun- tains of the Apennine, richly wood- ed, and embellished with convents, villages, and ruins of ancient edi- fices, to Salerno , formerly Saler- num ; the approach to which is enchanting. This town, situated about twenty-seven miles from Naples, and celebrated by the poets of the Augustan age for its delightful position, was anciently the capital of the Picentes; and is, at the present moment, a handsome sea-port embosomed in the Gulf to which it gives a name. The Precincts of the Cathedral here, and the Church itself, con- tain some antiquities brought from Paestum ; among which are Co- lumns, apparently of Roman workmanship, two or three Sar- cophagi, and the Basin of a Foun- tain, all placed in the Court be- fore the edifice, and the last fixed the wrong side upward in the wall of the Court. Among the antiquities within the Cathedral are two fine Columns of verde a 11- tic o, a mosaic Pavement, and two Yases for the purifying water ; one of which is adorned with hassi- rilievi, representing the history of Alexander’s expedition to India ; the other with representations of the pleasures of the vintage. The subterranean Church, beneath this Cathedral, is said to contain the bones of S. Matthew. Sa- lerno boasts a tolerably good Inn, where we breakfasted, at the same time providing ourselves with bread, meat, fruit, wine, water, every thing, in short, which we were likely to require at Pses- tum ; and being anxious to get thither as soon as possible, we ordered our drivers to take the summer road, instead of going round by Eboli : this road, how- ever, we did not reach for above an hour; but kept on the high- way, which traverses a rich and beautiful country, to us rendered doubly interesting by little groups of Calabrian farmers, dressed as Salvator Rosa frequently por- trays them, and all armed with short swords and fowling-pieces : some of these people were walk- ing ; others riding ; others re- galing themselves in temporary arbours close to the road ; and as' the harvest was getting in, when we passed this road, we likewise had the pleasure to observe the Calabrian mode of thrashing corn; which operation is accomplished by means of a small vehicle, shap- ed like an ancient car, placed on a wooden harrow, and drawn by two oxen : in this vehicle sit twe children, or one man, to guide the oxen; who walk round and round a circular paved space, en- closed by a dwarf wall, and strew- ed with the unthrashed grain ; which is continually turned by the harrow, while the animals thrash it with their hoofs. Two or three of these vehicles are frequently employed at the some moment, in each of the above-describe ( d en- closures . 1 After proceeding from six to eight miles through this luxuriant and populous country, we observed that the farm-houses gradually diminished in number : till, at length, on our turning off to the right, to take the summer road, they totally disappeared; while the face of the country be- came wild, melancholy, and like the Pontine Marshes twenty years ago. We also found the soil loose and swampy ; and the crazy 1 The smooth thrashing-floors, with cattle working in them, in the open fields ol Magna Gracia, are described by Homer. 280 PiESTtIM. [ch. *1 c bridges, made with boughs of trees, and thrown over deep ditches, which we were compelled to cross, frequently endangered our carriage and horses, and ob- liged us to walk. At length, how- ever, we arrived within sight of Persano , a hunting-seat belong- ing to the King of Naples: but, on learning that the bridge in this neighbourhood, thrown across the Silaro by Murat, was not suf- ficiently finished for carriages to pass over it, we found ourselves under the disagreeable necessity of fording the river ; in order to accomplish which we quitted the Persano road, and turned off a second time to the right, proceed- ing through woods of tamarisk and clumps of myrtle, till we reached the banks of the Silaro, anciently Silarus , and famed, from time immemorial, for the petrifying quality of. its waters: when, having with difficulty pro- cured a forder to walk at the head of our horses, we dashed down a sharp descent into the stream, which is by no means narrow, and rather deep ; though, during dry seasons, not danger- ous : our horses, however, seemed inclined to make it so; for, being much heated, and finding their situation very refreshing, they no sooner got midway through this river, than they stopped short ; thus subjecting us to be driven out of our course by the current : indeed the poor jaded animals were with such difficulty induced to proceed, that I began to ap- prehend we might, like other com- modities washed by the petrifying Silaro, be all converted into stone. The strong arm of our forder, 1 This plain is celebrated by Virgil for its roses that bloomed twice a year (in May and December); but the bushes which produced however, at length compelled the horses to continue their journey ; and after having gained the op- posite side of the river, we pro- ceeded, amidst wide desolation, through a vast plain unembel- lished now with roses , 1 vainly seeking forPaestum; which, from its peculiar situation, is so dif- ficult to find, that I no longer wonder at its having, when abandoned by its citizens, re- mained for ages undiscovered: after driving four miles without seeing a single habitation, or any living thing, except one eagle, and several herds of that stupid swinish looking animal the buf- falo, we at length approached a small patch of cultivation fenced with hedges of wild vines; when, turning toward the sea, we be- held, about a mile distant from its margin, and encompassed with silence and solitude, three stately edifices ; which announced them- selves as the remains of Pces- tum ; not, however, such remains as seemed to accord with the effe- minate, though finished taste of the rich and luxurious Sybarites — on the contrary, I could not help fancying myself transported to In- dia, and placed before the simply majestic specimens of Hindoo architecture represented by the pencil of Daniel. There is a room in a farm-house, near the Temples, where Travellers who wish for shelter may eat the din- ner they bring with them ; but its wretched inhabitants can sup- ply nothing except water; and even that is extremely unwhole- some; for the aqueducts which once conveyed healthy beverage to the town, are now no more. these flowers are said to have been removed while the kingdom of Naples was linden French government. CH. xi. PJESTUM. Travellers should neither sleep at Paestum , nor approach its environs till an hour after sunrise ; neither should they remain within its walls long enough to encounter the dew which falls immediately ; before sunset : and though, tak- ing these precautions, it may be possible to escape the dangerous effects of Mat aria , even during the months when it is most pre- valent, (those of July, August, and September), still I would counsel Travellers to prefer vi- siting Paestum in April, May, or October. This city, supposed to be the ancient Poseidonia of a colony of Sybarite adventurers, who, on landing here, found a town, drove its inhabitants to the mountains, and established themselves in their stead, appears, from its name, to have been dedicated to Neptune, called Uorerioov by the Greeks, The Sybarites, however, were supplanted by the Lucanians ; and these by the Romans ; under whose dominion Poseidonia assumed the name of Paestum ; and, after hav- ing survived the Roman empire in the west, was destroyed by the Saracens about the commence- ment of the tenth century . 1 Pre- vious to describing the ruins of this venerable city, it seems expe- dient to remark, that some of these ruins appear to be of much higher antiquity than others ; probably because the Sybarites, after hav- ing banished and succeeded the original inhabitants, supposed to have been Etrurians, repaired the walls, embellished the temples, and erected baths and other edi- 1 The temples of Paestum were visited by- Augustus as venerable antiquities, even in bis days; but appear, during modern times, to have been totally forgotten, till discovered in 1755 by a young painter of Naples, who 281 fices, congenial to the taste of an opulent and luxurious nation : and when Poseidonia fell under the yoke of the Romans, it is na- tural to imagine they might have introduced Roman architecture. Walls of Pee stum. These Walls, like those of Pompeii, are com- posed of very large smooth stones, put together with such nicety, that it is difficult to distinguish where they join ; 2 they are two miles and a half in circumfer- ence, and nearly of an elliptical form ; their height seems to have been about fifty English feet, their breadth, or platform, about twenty, and they were fortified by eight low towers, twenty-four feet square within, and at the win- dows twenty-three inches thick : these Towers are less ancient than the Walls; and some of the stones w hich compose them mea- sure five feet in length. Gates. Paestum had four Gates, placed at right angles; but that which fronts the east alone re- mains perfect ; it consists of one simple arch, about fifty feet high, and built of stones incredibly massive. On the key stone of this Arch it was easy once to discern two bassi-rilievi ; the one > epre- senting the Sirena Pestana hold- ing a rose ; the other representing a Dolphin; ancient symbols of a maritime people : time, however, has so far obliterated these sym- bols that I could not discover them. Within the Gate was a second Wall; and between the two are remains of Soldiers’ Bar- racks ; and likewise of the ancient Pavement of the city, which rc- once more brought them into public notice. 2 The Etruscan walls of Fiesole appear to have been of the same description in poiut of architecture. 2 b 2 282 FiESTUM, sembles that of Pompeii. On the outside of the northern Gate are several vestiges of Tombs, some of which appear to have been lined with painted stucco. Gre- cian armour, and vases of rare beauty, exhibiting Greek inscrip- tions, were found in many of them. Temple of Neptune This Edi- fice, the most majestic, and appa- rently the most ancient here, or indeed in any other part of the European world, is composed of stone, evidently created by the torpedo touch of the Silaro : for, like the stone of Tivoli, it con- sists of wood, and various other substances petrified ; and though durable as granite, abounds with so many small cavities, that it re- sembles cork. The shape of this Temple, supposed to have been consecrated to Neptune, is qua- drilateral ; its length, out and out, a hundred and ninety-seven English feet; its breadth eighty : it has two fronts, both being a- dorned with a pediment, sup- ported by six enormous fluted co- lumns. Each side is supported by twelve columns (those in the angles not being counted twice) ; and a Doric Frieze and Cornice encompass the whole building. The above-named exterior co- lumns, generally composed of six, though, in a few instances, of seven blocks of stone, are in height only twenty -seven feet; their circumference, at the bot- tom, is twenty feet six inches ; but considerably less at the top : and the number of flutings to each column is twenty-four. They have no bases; but rest on the 1 There being only three steps seems ex- traordinary ; because they are so inconve- niently deep, it is scarcely possible to ascend them. But as the number three was, as f [CH. XI; | third step of the platform on which the edifice is erected. The capitals are quite simple ; and more in the style of Hindoo ar- chitecture than any other. Two flights of steps lead to the two Yestibules, each of which is supported by two pilasters with two columns between them ; the breadth of each vestibule being eleven feet six inches. The Celia, forty-four feet in breadth, is en- closed by four dwarf walls, and adorned with fourteen columns, disposed in the same manner as the exterior row, but less mas- sive, the circumference at the bottom being only thirteen feet ten inches, and much less at the top ; and the flutings to each only twenty in number. The situation of the High-Altar, and those on which victims were sacrificed and offerings made, is discoverable ; and it appears that these altars fronted the east. The interior columns support an immense ar- chitrave ; on which rises another set of still smaller columns ; des- tined, perhaps, to support the roof of the portico : five of these columns remain on one side, and three on the other. Gigantic steps about five feet deep, and three in number, lead up to the platform on which the temple stands, and encompass it on every side. 1 The largest stone of this stupendous edifice contains one way thirteen feet eight inches ; another way four feet eight inches ; and an- other, two feet three inches ; making, altogether, one hundred and four cubic feet. I have already mentioned that some authors suppose the Etru- have already observed, sacred and typical among the Ancients, this might perhaps he the cause why the Paestum temples are sur- rounded by three steps only. PiESTUM. 283 CH. XI.] rians were originally Cananeans ; and if this be admitted, it will ap- pear probable that when they emi- grated to the European Conti- nent, their first landing place might be Paestum: and it seems equally probable that, on landing, they might erect the stupendous Temple I have endeavoured to de- scribe . 1 Basilica , so called, because no appearance is exhibited here, either of altars or a cella. This Edifice, which stands, like the Temple of Neptune, on a quadri- lateral platform, is in length, out and out, a hundred and sixty- eight feet six inches; and in breadth eighty feet six inches : it has two fronts, each being adorned by nine fluted columns without bases ; and resting on the third step of the platform ; which step is five feet two inches deep. Each side is adorned by sixteen columns (the angular columns not being counted twice), resting, likewise, on the first step of the platform : the circumference of the largest columns, at the bottom, is four- teen feet six inches; and, at the top, much less. Both fronts have a Vestibule; and the interior of the building is supposed to have been divided into equal parts by columns placed in a straight line from one entrance to the other ; but only three of these co- lumns now remain ; and they do not range with the exterior ones. Where these three columns stand, the pavement seems to have been raised; and probably this spot 1 An ancient inscription at Palermo is written in Chaldaean characters; and there- fore some persons suppose the primitive in- habitants of Palermo to have been emigrants from Chaldtea and Damascus: and if this conjecture be well founded, the Etrurians Vi ere more probably of Chaldaean than Ca- was appropriated to the magi- strates. The Portico, which is supposed to have been appro- priated to the common people, measures, in breath, fifteen feet; and the Gross Walk fifteen feet six inches. A Doric Frieze and Cornice adorn the outside of the edifice. Temple of Ceres. This Tem- ple, supposed to have been dedi- cated to Geres, though smaller, and consequently less imposing than that of Neptune, exhibits a lighter and more elegant style of architecture : its form is quadri- lateral ; its length, out and out, a hundred and eight feet ; and its breadth forty-eight. There are two fronts; each being adorn- ed with six columns, which sup- port a magnificent entablature and a pediment. Each side presents twelve columns, supporting a si- milar entablature; and every co- lumn is fluted, and rests, without base, on the third step of the platform on which the temple stands : the diameter of each co- lumn is four feet at the bottom ; less at the top; and the height thirty feet. At the entrance is a Vestibule, supported by six co- lumns with plain round bases; and beyond are four steps leading to the Celia, which is twenty-five feet wide, and encompassed, on the four sides, by a dwarf wall. The situation of the High-Altar, and of those whereon victims were sa- crificed and offerings made, is dis- coverable ; these altars fronted the east. Remains of Sarcophagi nanean origin. Another circumstance merits notice : the inside walls of the most ancient sepulchral monuments a*t Pajstum exhibit paintings; and we learn from the Prophet Isaiah, that the Chaldxans were in the habit of painting the walls of their apartments. 284 PJESTUM. [CH. XI. CH are likewise discoverable within the precints of this temple; the outside of which is adorned with a Doric Frieze and Cornice ; and all its columns, together with those of the Basilica, and the Temple of Neptune, appear to have been stuccoed. The Pave- ment of these buildings was Mo- saic. Theatre. This edifice is almost totally destroyed ; but the frag- ments of griffons and fine bassi- rilievi , which have been found here, evince that it was erected at a period when sculpture was rising fast to its zenith of perfection. Amphitheatre. This- Edifice c< likewise is nearly destroyed : it | n appears to have been of an oval p form, a hundred and seventy li feet wide, by a hundred and ■ twenty long. Ten rows of Seats, i and some of the Caves for wild beasts, may still be traced: it stood precisely in the centre of the town. The great antiquity of Paestum, and the uncertainty as to what its remaining edifices originally were, and to whom they belonged, brought to my recollection a cele- brated Italian sonnet, which may be thus imitated. “ Say, Time — whose, once, yon stately Pile,” I cried, “ Which, now, thou crumbiest, ruthless, with the soil ?" — He answer’d not— hut spread his pinions wide. And flew, with eager haste, to ampler spoil. “ Say, then, prolific Fame, whose breath supplies Life to each w ork of wonder — what were those ? Abash’d, with blushes only she replies, Like one whose bosom heaves with secret throes. Lost in amaze, I turn’d my steps aside ; When round the Pile I saw Oblivion glide, And scatter poppies o’er each vacant shrine : — ■ “ Speak ! ” I exclaim’d — “ for once, mute Nymph, reveal— Yet wherefore from thy lips remove the seal?— Whose once it was avails not — now ’lis thine! ” Having dined in the temple of Neptune, and at the same time enjoyed the most delicious and impressive mental feast which Eu- ropean scenery can furnish, we set out to return home by way of Eboli ; sending our carnage empty to ford the Silaro, while we walked over the new bridge. We were nearly four hours in driving to Eboli ; and, as it was quite dark, 1 can give no account of the road, further than that we found it smooth, and apparently excellent, except the first four miles. We slept at Eboli, where the Inn con- tains several beds, but an ill-pro- vided larder ; and next morning pursued our way to Salerno . r Wishing to visit the Benedictine Convent of La Trinild , near La Cava , we stopped at the entrance of that town, and sent for a light carriage and two strong horses, to take us up a rocky mountain of the Apennine, on which the Con- vent is situated, at the distance of two miles from the high road, and in the mule-path to Amalfi. The ascent to La Trinita presents fine scenery ; and the Convent, which is partly hewn out of a rock, and partly built upon it, is spacious even to magnificence ; but con- tains nothing particularly worth examination ; as the curious re- 1 There is nt Eboli an inn called La Rosa to by Travellers, contains good beds and a Petrilla, which, though not usually resorted tolerably plentiful larder. SORRENTO. GH. XI.] 285 cords, once kept there, were re- moved, when the French sup- pressed this confraternity. After having seen the Convent of La ! Trinita, we proceeded to Naples ; I stopping, however, at Pompeii ; 1 through which town we walked, while our carriage went round the outside of the walls to meeL us at ; the Villa of Diomedes : and, dur- ing this walk, we were struck with j the similitude of shape and archi- , lecture between the Temple of Hercules here, and that of Nep- tune at Psestum. EXCURSION, BY WATER, TO SOR- REKTO. Sorrento, anciently called Sf- rentum, from its enchanting situ- ation, and supposed to have been a Phoenician colony, is between five and six leagues distant from Naples; and lies on the left side of the bay, beyond Castel-a-mare, and near Capri. Persons who wish to go and return the same ! day should set out very early in the morning, it being necessary to allow four hours for rowing to Sorrento ; three for refreshing the boatmen ; and four for re- turning . 1 This excursion may be made by land through Caslel- a-mare and Yico ; but, from the former place to the commence- ment of the Piano di Sorrento, a distance of six miles, there is only a mule-road. The Inn at Sorrento being a bad one, Travellers should either provide themselves with a cold dinner when they visit this town, or dine about a mile distant, in the Piano, or Plain, at a Lodging- house called La Cocomella (ori- ginally a Convent belonging to the Jesuits), or at a neighbouring Lodging-house, near S. Pietro-a- Majella ; both of which habita- tions are rented by a civil and intelligent man, named Guarra- cino, who furnishes dinners, wine, and beds, either by the night, or for a longer period ; and, gene- rally speaking, Travellers find it more pleasant to land on the rocks near the Cocomella than at Sorrento ; especially as the path to the former lies through pictu- resque Caves, now a public bath- ing place ; but supposed to have been, in Homer’s days, the Tem- ples of the Sirens : and, if we may judge by their present ap- pearance, more probably the scene whence Virgil borrowed images for his Tartarus, than is the Grotto of the Cumsean Sibyl. The upper story of the Coco- mella boasts a Terrace which commands one of the most beau- tiful prospects existing; and un- der the Quadrangle, which con- tains a curiously constructed Well of delicious water, is a Crypto- Porticus . The Sorrentine shore exhibits remains of a Temple supposed to have been dedicated to Neptune ; ancient Baths, two of which are perfect ; 2 considerable vestiges of' an edifice supposed to have been 1 A boat with ten oars, thus hired, usually costs three piastres, beside a few carlini to the boatmen tor their dinner. 2 Contiguous lo, and on the left of the great Arch of the Temple of Neptune, is a small Corridor, nearly perfect, though half tilled with water; and leading to a large, circular, ancient Bath, which by the aid of a boat may be seen through a chasm in the cliff, and is said to contain paintings. Between this Bath and the Marina grande di Sorrento is an an- cient Bath of a quadrilateral form, in perfect preservation, and supposed by antiquaries to hare made part of a Temple consecrated to Venus. 286 SORRENTO. [ch. xi. the magnificent Temple of Ceres , which once adorned this coast ; and on the foundations of which a modern Yilla now stands ; 1 re- mains of a quadrilateral edifice of reticulated brick work , sup- posed to have been a Temple con- secrated to Hercules ; interesting traces of the Villa of Vedius Pollio, on the ascent behind the Temple ; 1 2 and, in a Gove just beyond the Marina di Puolo, 3 considerable vestiges of ancient Arches , Corridors , etc. now call- ed Portiglione, perhaps a corrup- tion of the words Porta Leoni ; for these Arches, according to the present appearance of the Ruin, may probably have been entrances to Caves belonging to a Theatre; and consequently appropriated to lions and other wild beasts. 4 But the Temple of Minerva, erected 1 The remains of the Temple of Ceres are on the Cliff, in an Orchard, once belonging to the Guardati family, and near the Villa-Cor- reale: and on the Beach, beneath this Temple, pieces of a composition denominated Sorrento stone are frequently found. The colour of the composition is blue ; some pieces being opaque, others transparent : and it is sup- posed they made part of the interior decora- tions of the Sorrentine temples. Emeralds and white Cornelians are also found in con- siderable numbers on the Sorrentine shore; and ancient Coins, Lamps, Vases, and per- sonal Ornaments, in the ancient public Burial- ground ; which appears to have been situated on the left side of the high road leading from Sorrento to Ponte Maggiore. There likewise are remains of a Columbarium on the Cliff near the Capuchin Convent. 2 Considerable masses of the Opus reticu- latum , some ot which have fallen into the sea, a Terrace with its original pavement re- maining, and Corridors under it, stuccoed, and in one part painted with the deep red colour so prevalent at Pompeii, is all now discover- able of the Temple of Hercules j the ruins of which edifice form the point of the Promon- tory of Sorrento, once called the Promontory of Ceres. The Villa of Pollio exhibits remains of a Bridge; two Reservoirs for fishes, in one of which is a spring of fresh water : a Kitchen with its stoves and fire-place quite perfect; several adjoining Rooms, probably offices for servants ; Pavements of ancient stucco, and Walls of the Opus reticulalum. It is said that when Augustus was feasting with Vedius Pollio in this Villa, a slave broke by accident a crystal vase belonging to a cosily set; upon by Ulysses (if we may credit Se- c neca), 5 on a height denominated 0 in modern times, La Punta della a Campanella, the temple of Apol- 8 lo, which stood on the same pro- , montory, and several other Tem- ples, mentioned by classic writers as having once adorned the Sor- rentine shore, are now levelled with the dust, or engulphed by the Tyrrhene Sea, which has made such encroachments, that what formerly was a fine road, extend- ing from the town of Sorrento to the base of the cliff crowned by the Temple of Geres, is at pre- sent deep water. 6 "When Bernardo Tasso came from northern Italy to settle at Sorrento, he found the streets a- dorned with handsome houses, and their inhabitants so kind and hospitable to foreigners, that he which Pollio condemned him lo be thrown inlo the reservoir, and become food for the fishes: but Augustus, indignant at this cruet order, forbade its execution; likewise com- manding the whole set of crystal to be broken, and thrown into the reservoir ; and at the same time ordering the reservoir itself lo be rendered useless. 3 It seems probable that Puolo may be a corruption of the word Pollio. 4 The ascent from the Cove to the Ruins above the Arches being steep and dangerous, I would counsel Travellers, after having seen the Arches, etc., to row to the Marina di Puolo, landing there, and then walking to the Cliff ( immediately above the Cove ) ; where, in a Masseria belonging lo Don Sal- vatore di Turris, are Ruins which evidently communicated with those below called Porli- glione. The form of these Ruins, and the Arches still visible in that part nearest to the Cove, seem to announce a Theatre: be- hind these Ruins are considerable remains of Walls of reticulated brick- work, which, judging from their shape, appear to have enclosed a Circus; and in this enclosure a fine column of marble (probably used instead of an obelisk) was recently discovered. 5 “ Alta procelloso speculatur vertice Pal- las.” — See Seneca, Epist. lxxvii. 6 On the side of this road, now inundated by the sea, stands a mass of ancient brick- work; which, according to tradition, was a Monument erected by the Sorrenlines to the memory of Lyparus, a foreign prince, who resided among them, and was a great bene- factor to their country. SORRENTO. 287 CH. XI.] calls Sorrento 44 V Alb ergo della down upon this plain, might fancy Cortesia speaks of the delici- it the garden of the Hesperides. ousness of the fruit; the variety Here is one carriage-road three and excellence of the animal food; miles in length, and formed by and then adds : “ L'aere e si se- means of bridges thrown over the reno, si temperato, si salutifero, ravines ; the other public paths si vitale, che gl' uomini che sen - are narrow, and all lie between za provar altro cielo ci vivono lofty walls , 2 which, though injii- sono quasi immortali:" and most rious to the beauty of the coun- certainly there is no spot in south- try, afford shade, even at mid-day ern Italy so free from reflected during summer ; and shelter from heat during summer, or so much storms of wind during winter, calculated at all seasons to pro- Sorrento has suffered so severe- mote longevity, as the plain of ly from earthquakes, war, and Sorrento. This plain, which is rapine, that few of its antiquities three miles in length, and one in remain. Its Fortifications are breadth, appears to be the mouth said to have been the first erected of an extinct volcano ; as it con- in Italy for the purpose of having sists of deep and narrow glens, cannon planted on them ; its rocks, caverns, and small level Streets exhibit ancient pavement, spots of tufo : while the surround- and resemble those of Pompeii, ing mountains are all composed as does the manner in which its of lime-stone . 1 Sorrento itself, houses are constructed. An In- though reported to have been once scription, near one of the Gates, a larger city than Naples, is now in honour of Trajan ; another in | small ; but contains, together with honour of Antoninus Pius; an- the neighbouring villages, from other, under the Portico of the j eighteen to twenty thousand in- Church of S. Antonino, mention- < habitants. The plain is one con- ing a Temple dedicated to Venus ; I tinued series of orchards divided the Pedestal of an ancient Egyp- j from each other by lofty walls, and tian Statue, not long since per- | intersected with houses. These feet ; mutilated bassi-rilievi ; Co- orchards, however, are not of the lumns, Sarcophagi, and Altars, common sort ; for the pomegra- may still be traced in this town : nate, the aloe, the mimosa, the and on the outside of the Cathe- mulberry, the apple, the pear, dral, over the great door, is a the peach, the sorbus, the vine, beautiful basso~rilievo , executed the olive, the bay, the cypress, the in Parian marble, and taken from wide-spreading oak, and magnifi- theTemple of Apollo, which stood cent maritime stone-pine, which near the Punta della Campanella, peculiarly marks an Italian land- originally called the Promontory scape, are so beautifully mingled of Minerva, from having been and contrasted with multitudes of crowned with a Temple dedicated oranges and lemons, that persons to that goddess . 3 But the object ■ standing on a height, and looking most interesting to sti angers is 1 The tea-tree is said to grow wild on this 3 The site of the Temple of Apollo is nca» ’ part of the Apennine. the village of Torea (anciently called Theo- 2 These walls appear to have heen built to riert, from the processions of the gods exhi- ' preserve the earth on each side from failing bited there), and not far distant from the i into the paths ; which were originally ra- village of S. Agnta. A church was erected, vines, formed by the hand of Nature. during the ninth century, on the foundations 283 SORRENTO. [CH. XI. the paternal Mansion of Tor- quato Tasso , beautifully situated on a cliff supposed to have been the site of an ancient Temple. On the outside of this mansion is a mutilated Bust, in term-cotta, of the immortal Bard; and, in the Saloon up-stairs, a marble Bust called Torquato Tasso, though it more probably represents his father. Here, likewise, is a fine medallion of Alexander the Great: and beyond this Saloon is a Ter- race commanding an extensive view of the Bay of Naples : but the chamber in which Tasso was born is fallen into the sea. The Vffla now belongs to the Duca di Laurito, who descends, in the fe- male line, from Tasso's family. 3X$ar this Villa (and belonging to tbe Palazzo-Mastrolili) is a Gar- den, through which a path leads to the Corridors of the Temple of Neptune, terminated by a re- maining part of that Temple, which exhibits a magnificent Gre- cian Arch. .Between Sorrento and Meta, and very near the former, are some Antiquities highly worth no- tice; namely, the Greek Piscina (the shape of which, the Crypto- Porticus, and the Wells, appa- rently intended to ventilate this reservoir, may all be discovered ; though the centre has recently been filled with earth, and con- verted into a garden) ; and the Roman Piscinae , or rather a part of the ancient Greek Reservoir, repaired by Anloninus Pius, in the year 160, and still quite per- fect, Here, likewise, are a con- siderable number of Wells, appa- rently designed to ventilate the of this Temple, and adorned with some of its columns, which still remain ; and there- fore Travellers who visit S. Agala should en- deavour to see these relics of antiquity. In heathen times a procession went yearly from Reservoir, -which still supplies Sorrento and its Piano with ex- cellent purified water. The Arches of this Reservoir are so skilfully constructed as to support a large Garden, which contains the lof- tiest Orange-trees in the whole Piano. Further on, in the way to Meta, is the site of an ancient Temple, supposed to hare been dedicated to Venus; and here are two myrtle-trees, so uncommon- ly large, that one could almost fancy them coeval with the Tem- ple. At the extremity of the Plain, and immediately under the lime-stone mountains, is Meta, a large Village, containing a hand- some Church, beau tifully situated, and near which are several very old and fine Olive-trees, of a kind seldom met with in Italy. The inhabitants of Sorrento and its vicinity still retain the character given of them by Ber- nardo Tasso, with respect to their attention and kindness to Fo- reigners. Hospitable, so far as making entertainments goes, they cannot be ; having no longer the power; but their fruit, milk, time, and best services are always at the command of a Stranger. Three or four generations of one family often live together, under the«same roof, according to the ancient Grecian custom ; and it is not un- common to see grandfathers and grandmothers above ninety years old and perfectly exempt from infirmities: with respect to the healthfulness of the climate, there- fore, Bernardo Tasso seems again to have judged right ; and with regard to provisions, beef, veal, fish, butter, honey, milk, fruits, the Pantheon at Sorrento to the Temples of Minerva and Apollo ; and the custom is still observed, with this difference,— -that th.e Blessed Virgin, and other Christian Saints, are substituted for the heathen divinities. SORRENTO. CH. XI.] and water, are all excellent ; hog- meat is so remarkably fine that hogs are denominated The Citizens of Sorrento ; and the wine of this district is light and wholesome ; though less esteemed by the Mo- derns than it was by the An- cients . 1 Lodging-houses may easily be procured at reasonable prices in the Plain ; but they are generally ill-furnished : the House of Captain Star ace, at S. dig- nello , is, however, comfortably furnished ; and, what is more im- portant still, its master unites the wish with the capability of assist- ing Foreigners; insomuch that, when under his protection, they can never want a friend. He has one or two smaller houses. The Villa Correale, a beautiful speci- men of Grecian architecture, si- tuated near the sea, and sur- rounded by enchanting scenery, is also let as a lodging-house : so likewise are the Villa Splnelli, at Ponte Maggiore; the Villa Ma- risca, which stands in a Garden, near .Carrota ; and the Villa Serra- Capriola, at Meta . 3 The mountains which border the Piano di Sorrento abound with delightful walks and rides. The spot called Conti delle FontaneUe , e di Cermenna , and between two and three miles dis- tant from the town of Sorrento, is well worth seeing ; as it pre- ; sents a magnificent view of the | Gulphs of Naples and Salerno, the Islands of the Sirens, immor- i talised by Homer, and one of 1 Persons who wish lo he enlightened with I respect to the history and antiquities of the I Sorrentine Republic, should consult a work written upon this subject by Philippo Anas- tasio, and entitled “ Anliquit. Surrent. ; ” and another work, written by his nephew, i and entitled “ Agnelli Anastasii Animad- versiones.” 2 The Cav- Correale has other Villas to let, charmingly situated on a height called 289 which contains ruins of an ancient Temple; the coast near Amalfi, etc.; and during the month of September immense nets for catch- ing quails are erected on this spot, below which is the Tunny fishery. The excursion to the Conti occu- pies four hours, if it be extended to a stupendous Arch, formed by the hand of nature, on the mar- gin of the Gulph of Salerno, which Arch, and the path lead- ing to it, furnish fine subjects for the pencil . 3 Camaldoli , a suppressed, but once magnificent Convent, situ- ated on a summit of the Apennine, about two miles from Ponte Mag- giore, is likewise worth seeing ; and the present possessor allows strangers, who come provided with a cold dinner, to eat it in the refectory. The ride from Sorrento to Airola, and back, occupies about four hours ; and exhibits the most sublime and beautiful prospects in the whole neighbourhood. On reaching the foot of a hillock, crowned by the Church of Airola, the Traveller should turn to the left ; passing through a lane ; and theuce proceeding, through a per- gola to a cottage ; on the left of which are steps leading to a pretty Coppice, composed of arbuti, Me- diterranean heaths, and other shrubs ; and at the extremity of this Coppice is a Cliff, which commands the whole Piano di Sorrento, the Bay of Naples, Ve- suvius, and part of the Gulph of Capo di Monte, and very near the town of Sorrento. 3 In order to see this Arch, pass the w ine- liouse on the summit of tiie hill between the two Gulphs ; then turn into the second path on the left, through a vineyard; and pursue this path till you reach (he cliff; down which follow' the goat-track, between myrtles and other shrubs, till you arrive at the Arch. 2 c 290 AMALFI. Salerno. About four miles beyond the village of Airola is that of S. Maria del Gastello; which commands a fine view of Amalfi, and the whole Gulph of Salerno : but Travellers, who extend their excursion to S. Maria del Gastello, should carry a cold dinner with them. The ride from Sorrento to S. Agata, and back, occupies about four hours ; and exhibits fine prospects. The ride from Sorrento to Mass a, a distance of between three and four miles, likewise ex- hibits fine prospects. This last- mentioned town, if we may credit ancient writers, was the favourite abode of the Sirens ; and the place where, during the age of Ulysses, there was an academy, renowned for learning and elo- quence; but the students abused their knowledge, to the colouring of wrong, and the corruption of manners ; consequently, the Si- rens were fabled, by the sweet- ness of their voices, to draw the unwary into ruin. Massa dis- plays vestiges of an Aqueduct ; and appears to have been once a considerable town : it does not, however, furnish an inn capable of accommodating Travellers ; though good wine may be pro- cured at the wine-shops. 1 The excursion from Sorrento to Amalfi is particularly interesting, and may be accomplished, with ease, in the following manner, dur- ing a cool and tranquil day. From 1 A narrow open carriage, similar in width to those the wheels of which have left traces in the streets of Pompeii; chaises^a-por- tcur ; donkeys; and excellent mules, — may he hired at Soiprento, and in its environs. For the open carriage the usual demand is one piastre per day — for a chaise-a-porteur, from three to ten carliui, according to the distance and time occupied— for a mule and guide to Castel-a-mare and hack, from eight [CH. XI, the Piano to that part of the Conti where begins a descent, called the Scaricatojo, Travellers may be conveyed either in chaises-a-por- teur , or on mules, in about one hour; thence descending the moun- tain, on foot, to the Gulph of Saler- no, where a boat, ordered over night, and as large as the Marinella affords, should be in attendance. 2 The descent occupies rather more than an hour, and, though steep, is not dangerous. On reaching the Marinella, Travellers should embark, without loss of time, for Amalfi, passing Positano, a ro- mantically situated town, peopled by rich merchants, and adorned with handsome housed. The time occupied in rowing from the Ma- rinella of the Scaricatojo to Amalfi is, generally speaking, about three hours. The whole coast exhibits enchanting scenery, and the situ- ation of Amalfi is picturesque be- yond description. Thistown boasts much of its high antiquity ; and here, A. D. 1137, a copy of Justi- nian’s Pandects was accidentally discovered. The Sea-Gate ap- pears to be ancient, and the Car thedral, a spacious and handsome edifice, stands proudly, on the site ofa heathen Temple, and contains an antique Vase of porphyry, now the baptismal Font, together with two immense Columns of red oriental granite, similar to those in the church of S. Maria degli Angeli, at Rome. The Columns which adorn the high altar are likewise antique : and, under the to ten carlini— for ditto, to S. A.gata, Torca, or Capo-Campanella, six carlini — and for ditto, to Camaldoli, Airola, the Conti, or Massa, four carlini: hut if the rider should dismount, and detain the mule and guide at any ot the above-named places, the guide would expect at least one carlino an hour for this detention. 2 Most of these boats are small. ch. xi.] AMALFI -CASTEL-A-MARE— CAPRI. 29t cathedral, is a Crypt, supposed to be part of the heathen Temple, and decorated with excellentPaint- ings, probably by the Florentine school. Amalfi is built in an am- phitheatrical form ; and the upper part of the town exhibits magnifi- cent views, and contains some an- cient Greek Paintings. No com- fortable inn can be found here : but Travellers who bring their dinner with them, are permitted to dine in a Garden belonging to the Capuchin Convent. Large boats and skilful boatmen may be hired on the beach at Amalfi : and in case of a contrary wind for return- ing to the Scaricatojo, it is advis- able to hire one of these large boats, instead of going back in a small one. Cheap and good writ- ing paper may be purchased at Amalfi, as may wine, ice, fruit, ve- getables, and fish. Three hours should be allowed for rowing back to the Scaricatojo ; one hour and a half for ascending the mountain, and about one hour for returning to the Piano di Sorrento. 1 A pleasant water excursion may be made from Sorrento to Gastel- a-mare, whither a Sorrento boat usually goes in one hour and a quarter, and returns in about two hours. Castel-a-mare, situated at the foot of the hill on which stood the ancient Stabiae, is encircled by a beautiful country, and embellish- ed with a Quay, made by the French. Here are several small Lodging-houses, but no inns fit to sleep at. On the hill above Cas- tel-a-mare is a Villa belonging to the King of Naples, together with two or three large lodging-houses, .1 The usual price for a mule from the town ot Sorrento to the descent called the Scarica- tojo, is four carlini ; and for the same mule from the Scaricatojo to Sorrento, four carlini. The usual p^ice for a boat with four oars, delightfully situated in the vicinity of shady walks and rides ; and on this hill it is possible to trace the site of Stabice , but nothing more, as the excavations made in that village have been filled up. Sculp- ture, Paintings, and a considerable number of Papyri were found in Stabiae, but very few skeletons ; therefore it is supposed the inha- bitants had time to escape, before their d welling-place was entombed by the ashes from Vesuvius. Carriages and donkeys may he hired at Castel-a-mare to convey Travellers to Pompeii, which is not four miles distant. Another pleasant water excur- sion may be made to Capri. This island, situated about three leagues and a half from Sorrento, and about eight from Naples, was an- ciently called Caprece, and is ce- lebrated for having been the re - tiring-place of Augustus, and the residence, during several years, of Tiberius. It is nine miles in cir- cumference, and contains about nine thousand inhabitants, and two towns, Capri and Aha-Capri, the latter being situated on the summit of a rock, to which there is an ascent of above five hundred steps . The people chiefly consist of mechanics, husbandmen, and sailors; perfect equality reigns among them, every body appears industrious, nobody seems poor, and so salubrious is the climate that scarce any mala- dies visit the island. The most comfortable way of managing this excursion is to hire a ten-oared boat, taking a cold dinner, bread, salad, fruit, plates, glasses, knives, forks, etc., but no wine; that be- and places for four passengers, from the Marinella of the Scaricatojo to Amalfi, is one piastre; and for a boat with six oars, and S ' aces for six passengers, from Amalii to the arinella, three ducats. 292 CAPKI. [CH. X2. ing excellent at Capri ; and selling out very early in the morning, as sixteen hours are required for rowing to the island, seeing every thing worth observation there, and returning. When Travellers land, donkeys are immediately brought down to the beach, for their ac- commodation ; 1 and the best mode of proceeding is to mount these animals, and ride to the Steps leading up to Ana- Capri ; dis- mounting at the steps ; walking up, and sending the donkeys be- fore. On arriving at the top of the steps, you find a good mule- path, and may therefore remount, and ride round Ana-Capri. On returning to the steps, it is again prudent to dismount, and walk down, sending the animals before. Having reached the Plain , ride or walk to Capri , and then proceed to a Villa above the town, on the way to the eastern Promontory , where stood 7'iberiuss Palace; dine in this Villa, the owner of which will give the use of his house and kitchen, and provide a large party with wine, for two ducats. After dinner remoun t the donkey s , and ride to the Piscina of Tibe- rius' 1 s Palace , called Villa Jovis, and supposed to have been erect- ed by Augustus. Near this Villa are ruins of an ancient Light- house; beyond which, in conse- quence of a recent excavation, small Rooms, and a Corridor, with Mosaic Pavements, have been dis- covered. Among the ruins of the Villa, vestiges of Baths, and a Theatre, may still be found ; and after having examined these, and con' ernpla ted th e magnificent vie w from the summit of the lofty rock, once crowned by the Villa, return to the Beach. Tiberius had twelve Villas at Capri, all magnificent, and well fortified : but as persons were sent hither on the death of the tyrant to demolish his works, and not leave one stone upon another, it is difficult to ascertain where all these Villas stood. The Monte di S. Michele, however, exhibits ' extensive ruins, and a long range of vaulted Apartments, in a semi- circular form , together with traces of an ancient Road leading to the summit of the hill. Mosaic Pave- ments were found on the height where the Fortress is placed; and on the northern coast are remains of a building still called II Pa- lazzo, and supposed to have been one of the imperial winter habita- tions. The best water on the Island is to be found at the Villa Jovis. The town of Capri contains no inn, but there is a private house, where Travellers may, in case of necessity, be provided with beds. Immense flights of quails visit this Island during the month of Sep- tember, and are caught in nets by the inhabitants, to supply the Naples market. The usual price of a twelve- oared boat by the day, at Sor- rento, is from four to five ducats, including a dinner for the boat- men, who are deemed the most skilful mariners in Italy; and these sons of Neptune celebrate annu- ally, at Sorrento, on the first Sun- day in August, a marine Festival, particularly interesting to Travel- lers, because supposed to be now precisely the same as in ages of remote antiquity. It concludes with a dance in the sea, performed by mariners, whose dexterity in leaping out of their boats, diving, 1 Chaise s-a-poj'leur may likewise be procured in the town of Capri. ch. xi.1 PROCIDA AND ISCHIA. 293 and throwing fountains of water on each other, is admirable. 1 2 EXCURSION TO THE ISLANDS OF PROCIDA AND ISCHIA. As good accommodations may be procured at Ischia, the most comfortable manner of making this excursion is to hire a boat at Naples for two or three days, vi- siting Procida first, and Ischia afterward. We pursued this plan, taking a cold dinner with us, and determining to dine at Procida and sleep at Ischia. As the wea- ther was warm, we set out early, and, after doubling the Cape of Pausilipo, passed a picturesque Hermitage, together with several ruins of ancient buildings, and, among others, those commonly called The Schools of Virgil, but conjectured to have been a Villa belonging to Lucullus. We then rowed under the Promontory of Misenum, to obtain a good view of this great Harbour of the Ro- mans, and arrived at Procida in two hours and a half, from the time when we left Naples, the dis- tance being about four leagues. Procida (called by the Greeks Prochyta), though a small island, is remarkably populous, and its inhabitants are reputed to be rich: the women dress in the Greek style, the men wear Phrygian caps (as do all the mariners in the Bay of Naples), and it is said they retain many of the ancient Grecian customs. The grapes, figs, 1 We paid for each mule and donkey, at Capri, six. carlini ; to each guide two carlin i ; to the Ciceroue half a piastre ; and to the custom-house officer three carlini. and wine of Procida are excel- lent ; the houses flat-roofed, with terraces on the top ; and the stair- cases generally on the outside of the walls. We were permitted to dine in a large shooting-seat be- longing to the King of Naples, and delightfully situated on the brow of a ditf overhanging the sea. From the landing-place to this royal Villa is a short mile ; and after contemplating the beau- tiful views in its vicinity, w r e re- embarked, and proceeded to Is- chia, anciently called Inarime, and Pithecusa, 2 and about six leagues distant from Naples. Ac- cording to some opinions, Ischia is the offspring of a volcano, and certainly it appears to have suf- fered severely from volcanic erup- tions, though, during the last three hundred years, nothing of this kind has happened. It is eighteen miles in circumference, and famed for hot baths, which, in summer, are much frequented; and like- wise for mineral waters, supposed to have been in several cases sa- lutary. The town of Furio con- tains a Chapel which merits no- tice. The whole island is beau- tiful, and from the heights of Monte di Vico, and Monte S. Ni- colo, the Epopeus of the Classics, the views are particularly fine. Ischia produces some of the best wines in the vicinity of Na- ples, and contains a good Lodg- ing and Boarding House, belong- ing to a person known by the name of Don Tommaso. 2 Ischia and Procida are supposed to have heen originally united under the name of Pitiiccusu . CHAPTER XII, RETURN TO ENGLAND, THROUGH GERMANY. Journey from Rome through Perugia to Florence— Objects best worth notice on that road — Hannibal’s route into Italy— Journey from Florence to Dresden— Ferrara— Rovigo— Padua —Baths of Abano— Arqua— Venice— Objects best worthy notice— Basilica of S. Marco— Palazzo Ex-Ducale — Accademia delle Belle Arli— Chiese de’ Gcsuiti — dei Carmilitani- — del Carmine— di S. S. Giovanni e Paolo— di S. Giorgio Maggiore— del Redenlorts— di 8. Maria della Salule— Palazzi Pisani-Moreta— Grimani— Barberigo— Scuola di S. Rocco— Palazzo- Manfrini— Arsenal— Promenades— Theatres— Hotels— Water— Conegliano— Pordenon— Ta- gliamento — S. Tommaso— Ponfeba— Custom-house there— Villach— Beds and Provisions ia Germany— Table-linen— Peasantry— Country Towns, etc.— Klagenfurt— Friesach- Juden- burg — Leoben — Merzhofen — Schollwien — TrasEirken —Vienna— Custom-house— Hotels— Imperial Residence— Cathedral— Churches of S. Peter— 5, Michael— the Augustines— Cnpu- chins~S. Charles and, S. Rupert— Imperial Arsenal, and other public Buildings— Fountain- Imperial Libraries— Jewels— Medals — Cabinet of Natural History — Belvedere Gallery of Paintings— Lichtenstein Gallery— Poreelain Manufacture — Prater— Lau Garten— Schoen- brunn— Coffee-houses— Water— National Dish — Theatres — Population — Distance from Flo- rence— Stockerau — Znaim — Schelletau — Iglau— Stecken — Czaslau — Planian— Prague— Popu- lation— Objects best worth notice — Inns— Budin— Lobositz — Aussig — Peterswald — Inns be- tween that town and Dresden — Saxon Peasants— Custom-house — Dresden — Population — Architecture— Religion— Character of the Inhabitants— Inns — Objects best worth a Travel- ler’s attention — Mode of obtaining admittance to the Picture Gallery, etc.— List of some of the most striking Pictures — Treasury — Cabinet of antique Sculpture — Dresden China- Theatres — Distance from Vienna to Dresden — Ditto from Dresden to Hamburgh — Voyage down the Elbe to the last-named city— Population of Hamburgh — Description of the Town and Port — Inns — Private Lodgings — Sagacity of a Stork — Voyage from Hamburgh to Cux- haveri— Harwich Packets— Prices — Days on which these Vessels sail — Inns at Cuxhaven. Wishing to see the Cascade of Terni, and the celebrated Lake of Trasyrnenus, we took the Perugia road from Rome to Florence ; and found it so very interesting, that I shall give a brief account of the objects best worth attention. Civita- Castellana, supposed by some writers to be the ancient Veii, though, more probably, the ancient Fescennium, was the first town which attracted our notice; and is, in point of situation , par- ticularly strong and beautiful. Narni , the next considerable town in this road, was formerly called Nequinum, from the obsti- nacy of its citizens; who, during a siege, killed their wives and children; in order to save their provisions ; and, when all these were consumed, chose rather to lay violent hands upon themselves than surrender. This place gave birth to the Emperor Nerva. A little beyond Narni, and about a mile out of the road, are remains of a magnificent Bridge ,. supposed to have been thrown, by Augustus, over the river Nera (an- ciently the Nar ), for the purpose of uniting two hills. In order to examine this stately ruin, we made our carriages wait in the road to Terni, while we walked down the hill, at whose foot the bridge presents itself. It consists of large stones joined together without any cement or iron cramps, and cut, on their out- ch. xii.] CASCADE OF TERNI. 295 sides, into the form of diamonds. On the dry land, next to Nairn, is one entire arch, the piers of which are above forty common paces asunder. The piers still re- maining in the water prove the immense size of the other arches; which were not, however, of an equal diameter. The length of this bridge is supposed to have been 850 Roman palmi ; and a Roman architectural palmo is nearly nine English inches. The distance between the piers of the first arch is computed to be 100 palmi , and its height 150 ; the distance between the piers of the second, 180 palmi ; that between those of the third, 150; and the last arch, which ends on the other side of the Nera, is 190 palmi in breadth. Terni derives its ancient name, Jnteramna, from the two arms of the Nera, between which it is situated. Cornelius Tacitus, and the Emperors Tacitus and Floria- uus, were born in this city, which contains the ruins of an Amphi- theatre in the Episcopal Garden, and those of a Temple of the Sun, in the church of S. Salva- dore. At S. Siro, in the cellars of the College, are the remains of a Temple of Hercules, and in the Casina of the Casa-Spada, some ruins of ancient Baths. 1 Four miles from Terni is the famous Cascade called Caduta delle Marmore , and formed by the fall of the Yelino (anciently the Velinus ) into the Nera. These cataracts are said to have been made about the year of Rome 671, by Curius Dentatus, who, in order to drain the territory of Rieti of its standing waters, cut channels, through which he dis- charged them into the Yelino, 1 Near Terni stands Itieti, anciently H and thence into the Nera, form- ing, by these means, a cascade, consisting of three leaps, the first computed to be 300 English feet, the two others, united, between 4 and 500. Wishing to see these cataracts in perfection, we set out from Terni about ten o’clock of a clear morning, and ascended the Monte di Marmore in calashes, till we approached the Yelino, which announces itself at a con- siderable distance by its thunder- ing noise. We then walked to view the narrow pass through which it rushes down the fall of 300 feet ; and afterward proceed- ed to a temple built on a promon- tory, for the purpose of contem- plating the three leaps together. Here we remained till twelve o’clock, when the effect of the sun upon water, which, from the velocity of its fall, rises into va- pours, resembling millions of curled white feathers, is beauti- ful beyond description; indeed, there are very few celestial rain- bows half so brilliant as the ter- restrial ones at Terni. After hav- ing seen these, we returned to the bottom of the Monte di Mar- more, and then dismounted from our calashes, and walked to view the cataract from below. This walk occupied nearly two hours ; it lies through a Gentleman’s grounds, of which nothing can exceed the beauty, except the stupendous cataracts by which they are terminated. Spoleti, or Spoleto (formerly Spoletum ), is a very ancient citv, situated on the acclivity of a mountain, and watered by the Clitumnus, celebrated in days of yore for the whiteness of the cat- tle which grazed near it. The citizens of Spoleto repulsed Hau- eale, celebrate 1 for ils Vale of Tempe. 296 PERUGIA. [ch. xir. nibal immediately after the battle of Trasymenus ; and they still reserve a gate, called Porta- uga, with an inscription in me- mory of this event. The Cathe- dral contains paintings, bassi-ri- lievi, and ancient mosaics. The Aqueduct is a beautiful fabric, supported by stone arches, and, in one part, by a double arcade, said to be 300 feet high. Between Spoleto and Foligno, and close to the road, is the Tem- ple of Clitumnus, now converted into a chapel, and dedicated to S. Salvadore. The front toward the plain is adorned with four pillars, two pilasters, and a pediment : the edifice is oblong, and exhibits the following words cut in stone : 4 ‘ T. Septimius Plebeius .” 1 Foligno , anciently Fulginas, stands on the Yia Flaminia ; and contains a Cathedral, the altar and frescos in which merit notice. Between Foligno and Perugia lies Assisi (anciently Assisium ), the birth-place of S. Francesco. 2 It is situated on a hill so near to the great road, that Travellers may visit it with ease. The church of S. Francesco, in this city, con- tains several pictures of the old school, which are worth notice. The Monastery of Francescan nuns, called the nuns of S. Clare, likewise deserves attention ; and the Church of S. Maria, or the Filipiniy once a temple of Mi- nerva, is a beautiful piece of anli- quity. Perugia (anciently Augusta Perusia ), the capital of the rich and charming province of Um- bria, and once the strongest city 1 It does not appear certain that the present chapel of S. Salvadore was anciently the Temple of Clitumnus, Pliny places this temple near the source of the river - r and Suetonius says, that Caligula went to Me- lania tp see the Temple of Clitumnus. The of Etruria, displays a handsome modern Gate (the Porta S. Pie- tro), and contains antiquities, and paintings of the old school, well worth observation; but, exclusive of this, Travellers should sleep here, in order to avoid passing a night atTorricella. Perugia is mag- nificently situated on the summit of a lofty mountain of the A pen- nine, and seems by nature almost impregnable: such, indeed, was the strength of this city, and such the valour of its inhabitants, that Hannibal did not venture to at- tack it, even after having gained the important battle of Trasy- menus : and, to this moment, the Perugians are famed for being the most daring and ferocious of the Roman people. Between Torricella and Camus- cia, at five miles’ distance from the former, is the miserable vil- lage of PassignanOy rendered fa- mous by the above-named victory ained near this spot by Hanni- al, 217 years before Christ. Six miles further on is the Ponte-SanguinettOy situated be- low a village of the same name, and, both so called from the effu- sion of Roman blood spilt there. Between Passignano and the ri- vulet called Sanguinetio, the site of the Roman camp , and the Pass through which Hannibal came down from the heights, may be discovered. Four miles further on is Spi- longa, a small hamlet on the con- fines of Tuscany ; and three miles from Spilonga stands Ossaia , where, on a house in the street, is the following inscription : — small town of Bevagna unquestionably stands upon the site of the ancient Mevania, which lies to the west of the river Timia, and at the influx of the Tacareaa and Rucciano into the Clitumnus. 2 Metaslasio also was horn at Assist 297 ch, xii.] HANNIBAL’S ROUTE INTO ITALY. 4 Nomen liabet locus hie Ossaia, ab ossi- supposed to be that of the unfor- qiub dolus Annibaiis fudit et hasta si~ tunate Consul Flaminius ; and re- mui.” presenting the battle of the Lapi- “ This place bears the name of thae with the Centaurs. Many Ossaia, from the bones of those of the churches are curious in unfortunate men whom Hannibal point of architecture ; and most slew here.” of them contain good pictures, Ossaia is by many writers sup- both of the old and new school, posed to have been the actual Several of the private houses con- field of battle ; though, perhaps, tain valuable paintings. The an- it rather was the hill to which cient Etruscan Walls of this city the small remains of Flaminius’ s are in some places discoverable ; troops retired : because, thirteen they were formed of immense miles, the reputed distance be- blocks of marble, without any tween Passignano and Ossaia, cement whatsoever; and, in the seems too large a space for the Museum of the Academy, and in contending armies to have occu- those which belong to the nobles pied. It is impossible to view the of Cortona, are other Etruscan country between Passignano and antiquities. Ossaia, without feeling the highest Arezzo (anciently Aretium ), is admiration of the military skill of remarkable for the extensive view Hannibal ; who contrived, on an from its fortress ; and remains of enemy’s ground, to draw that the ancient Amphitheatre are still enemy into a narrow, swampy, to be seen. Arezzo gave birth to and uncommonly foggy plain, Petrarca. where no army, however brave, As the subject of this chapter could long have defended itself; has led me to speak of Hannibal, for on three sides are heights, I will subjoin a detail of what ap- which were possessed by the pears to have been his route into troops of Carthage; and, on the Italy, which I have traced from other, is a large unfordable lake. an ancient map as far as Embrun On the hill above Camuscia, upon the river Durance in Dau- and within the distance of a walk, phine, and afterward founded stands Cortona (formerly Cori- upon the authority of Polybius, tus ), said to be the most ancient strengthened by the present ap- of the twelve great cities of Etru- pearance of the ground, ria, and famed, in the days of Py- Hannibal set out in the midst of thagoras, for the bodily strength winter U. C. 535, with an army of its inhabitants, and the salu- of fifty thousand foot, and nine brity of its air. In the Cathedral thousand horse, beside elephants, is a large antique Sarcophagus, from (Ancient Names.) (Modern Names.) Septa Ceuta , in Africa, a sea-port, and crossed to Fretum Erculeum The Straits of Gibraltar ; whence he probably proceeded by sea to Calpe Tarfa, the Pillars of Hercules in Europe ; then passed through the Country of the The Kingdom of Granada , in Spain , to Bastuli Malaca Malaga ; and thence proceeded through the 298 HANNIBAL’S ROUTE INTO ITALY. [ch. xir, (Ancient Names.) (Modern Names.) Country of the The Kingdom of Murcia , to the camp of Spar- Bastiani tarius, thence going to Cartago-nova . . . Carthagena, and traversing the Province of Con- The Kingdom of Valentia , to testanorum Alone 1 Alicant; at which sea-port it seems probable that he embarked" his troops, and passed up the river Sucro Segura , or Xucar , to Valencia, thence proceeding along the river Iberus Ebro, through the Country of the The Principality of Catalonia, to Illercaones Tarraco , or Tar- Tarragona, and rago Cartago-Veius . . Villa-Franca : he then crossed the Rubricalus . . . . The River Llobregat, proceeded to, and cross- ed, the Gerunda The River Gerona, and then came to Rhoda Rosas: though some authors assert that he fol- lowed the course of the Gerona to the Pyre- nean mountains, and crossed thence into Gaul. From Rosas, however, according to the map, he went to Veneris Fanum . . Port Vendres, thence to Caucoliberis , or Collioure, in the Province of the Volcce Te- Illiberis dosages, or Rossiglione ; thence he pro- ceeded to Narbo Narbonne , the Country of the Bebricas , and thence to Mgatha Montpellier and Nemausus .... Nismes ; when, passing through the country of the Volcce Arecomii , he proceeded to the banks of the Rhodanus .... The Rhone, down which river he passed to Avenio ...... Avignon; thence traversing to The Country of the Provence , to Dauphine, the country of the Al~ Cassuares lobroges; thence he proceeded to Augusta Tricastri- S. Pa u l-trois- Cha teaux, and then went by the nonum river Di'uentia Durance, to Embrodunus . . . Embrun ; whence he marched to, and crossed Mons Vesulus , or Monte Viso, one of the great Alps, said to be Visas 9,997 English feet in height, but not so diffi- cult of access as are many of those mountains ; it lies almost in a direct line with Embrun, and the road to it is not strongly guarded t Called, by some authors, Lucenium . CH. XII.] HANNIBAL’S ROUTE INTO ITALY. 299 (Ancient Names.) (Modern Names.) by narrow defiles, as are many passages into Italy. Thence he went to Pbiarolum .... Pignerol, a city of Upper Dauphine, ab jut 20 miles from Turin ; thence he followed the course of the Padus Po, then went to Alba- Pompeia . . Albe Dortona Tortona , and Ticinum Pavia ; crossed the river Trebbia, subdued Piacenza , Parma, Regiuni The Kingdom of Modena, and Mutina Modena itself ; then came to Fcesulce Fiesole ; thence proceeded to Aretium Arezzo ; and thence to Trasimene .... The Lake of Perugia, or Trasymenus. Hannibal is supposed to have passed through Gaul, to the foot of the Alps, in ten days. It seems an impossibility that he should have reached theFenestrelles, Ce- nis, S. Bernard, or S. Gothard, in so short a time. It likewise seems improbable that he should have re- jected the passage of Monte Viso, which lay directly before him, to search for some other at a greater distance; especially as his only route to that other was through narrow and dangerous defiles. He is said, by Polybius, to have passed through the country of the Allo- broges, over an immense Alp, whence he saw and pointed out to his soldiers the rich and beautiful plains of Italy; after which he immediately descended into val- leys watered by the Po. All this exactly described Monte Viso, near theltalian side of which lie the plains of Piedmont, and through these plains runs the Po, which rises at the foot of Mount Viso. Polybius likewise says, the first city taken by Hannibal in Italy was Turin ; and that, too, might be ; for Turin is only twenty miles distant from Pignerol. When I was at Lausanne, I consulted Gibbon, who resided there, with respect to this route; and he seemed to think it might probably be that pursued by Han- nibal: moreover, a friend of mine, who ascended Viso, told me, the plains of Italy were discernible from its summit. On this point, however, I cannot speak from my own knowledge ; as I only visited the base of the mountain. From Florence to Dresden we travelled en voiturier; and though our time of setting out was the middle of April, yet, even at that mild season, the wind on the Apen- nine, between Florence and Bo- logna, was so piercing, that a lady of our party became, in conse- quence, alarmingly ill: and like- wise, in passing through Germany, she suffered severely from stoves, which are universally substituted for fire-places ; from damp beds , for there are no warming-pans, nor any other machine for drying beds in Germany; from the keen air of the Alps between Venice and Vienna ; from the severity of the climate in Moravia and Bo- hemia ; and from the excessive 300 FERRARA— PADUA. roughness of the roads between Prague and Dresden. Neverthe- less, we endeavoured to guard against some of these inconve- niences, by providing ourselves with fur travelling caps, warm pe- lisses, shoes and boots lined with fur, and great coats, which we were glad to put upon our beds in Mo- ravia and Bohemia ; where there are no coverlids, except small eyder-down quilts, which general- ly slip off ere the night be half spent. But, notwithstanding every precaution that prudence can sug- gest, it seems tome impossible for invalids, in general, and especially those who are afflicted with pul- monary complaints, to attempt talcing this journey without risk to their lives. As I have already given an ac- count of the road between Flo- rence and Bologna, I shall only say that, after remaining a short time at the last-named place, we roceeded, in five hours and a alf, to Ferrara ; through a good road , and a remarkably rich coun- try. Midway between this city and Bologna is a neat and pleasant inn, the Albergo della Fenice, called U Te, where Travellers may dine or sleep. Ferrara is a fortified town, ce- lebrated for containing, in its pub- lic Library, the Tomb of Ariosto, his Chair, Inkstand, and hand- writing ; together with a bronze Medallion of that great Poet, found in his tomb ; where likewise was found an account of his last illness and death. This Library also contains the original Manu- scripts of Tasso s Gei'usalemme Liberata, and Guarinis Pastor Fido , with several Volumes of Music, illuminated by Gosmei : and in the Hospital of S. Anna, 1 Boats large enough lo accommodate a famil and this voyage occU|i< [CH. XII. Travellers are shown the Cell where Tasso was confined. The inn we slept at (/ tre Mori), is large, but comfortless ; the climate of Ferrara is unwholesome, and the water bad. 1 Our next day’s journey was to Monselice ; and occupied ten hours and a half ; the road being, for some miles, sandy. Soon after quitting Ferrara, we crossed the Po, on a pont-volant ; and beyond Rovigo passed the Adige in a si- milar conveyance. The Post- house at Monselice is a good inn. Next day, we proceeded to Mestre in nine hours and a half, exclusive of the time spent at Padua, in seeing that city. Padua, the birth-place of Livy, is large, and strongly fortified ; but not handsome, its University excepted ; which was built by Palladio. This University, founded by the Emperor Frederick ir., in opposition to that of Bologna, once contained eighteen thousand stu- dents; and still possesses public Schools, a chemical Laboratory, an anatomical Theatre, a Museum of natural history, and a botanic Garden. The Palazzo della Giustizia contains an immense Town-hall, the ceiling and walls of which were originally painted by Giotto and his scholars ; and re-touched, in 1762, by Zannoni : the ceiling, however, was destroyed, in consequence of the roof blowing of; but the paintings on the walls remain. This apartment contains a Mo- nument to the memory of Livy, and two Egyptian Statues. The Palazzo del Podesta con- tains a painting, by Palma il Gio- vane, of our Saviour blessing the city of Padua. The Duomo contains a modem y may he hired, at Ferrara, to go lo Venice ; :s aloat twenty hours. VENICE. CH. XII.] 301 Monument to the memory of Pe- trarca ; a Madonna, by Giotto, which once belonged to Petrarca ; and, in the Sacristy, a portrait of that Poet among the other Ca- nons. The Church dedicated to S. Antonio di Padova was begun by Niccolo Pisano, in 1255 ; and fi- nished by Sansovino, in 1307 : it contains Statues of Cardinal Rem- bo, and other eminent Charac- ters; bassi-rilievi by T. and A. Lombardo, Sansovino, Campag- na, etc. , a Crucifix, by Donatello ; and Frescos, by Giotto. The ad- joining Scuola contains Frescos, by Titian : and in the Area, be- fore the Church, is an equestrian Statue, by Donatello, of the fa- mous General, surnamed G atta- in ela fa. The Church dedicated to S. Giustina, built by Andrea Riccio, after the designs of Palladio, and deemed a fine specimen of archi- tecture, is adorned with a cele- brated painting over the high-altar, by Paolo Veronese ; together with beautiful bassi-rilievi , said to have been executed by Reichard, a French artist : they ornament the Stalls in the Choir. Padua contains good hotels; the most comfortable of which is the Stella d Ora : and from this city a public Passage-boat sets out every morning, at an early hour, for Venice. 1 The drive from Monselice to Padua is extremely interesting ; as the road runs parallel with the Canal leading to Venice ; and is bordered with Villas, built after the designs of Palladio, and em- bellished with a fine view of the Rhoetian Alps. The road from Padua to Mestre is likewise inte- resting ; as it exhibits a fine view of Venice. After sleeping at Mestre, where there is a comfortable Hotel, and a good remise for carriages, we embarked, next morning, in a gondola ; which conveyed us, in about two hours, to Venice, for five francs and a half, buona-mano inclusive : we were, however, stopped twice on our voyage, bv Austrian custom-house officers, and obliged to present them with a couple of francs. 2 Venice, one of the most consi- derable cities in Italy, and sup- posed to derive its name from the Veneti, who peopled the neigh- bouring coasts, is built upon piles in the midst of shallows, called Lagunes, and reputed to contain about a hundred thousand inha- bitants. It is scarce possible to discover the magnificent edifices of Venice, floating, as it were, on the bosom of the deep, without exclaiming : Singular and beautiful city! of whose appearance imagination can form no idea, bec^’se no other work of man is like thee. Enchant- ment seems to have raised thy 1 The village of Abano, anciently Apo- One mile from Catajo is the little town of niitm, between five and six miles from Padua, Bataglia, so named from the rapid conllux is much frequented during summer, on ac- of two rivulets: and about three m les from leount of the Warm Baths in its neighbour- Bataglia lies Arqua, or Arquato, unbosomed hood; where the Sudatory, and Bagno di in the Euganean lulls, and famous for having j Fango, or Mud-Bath, are said to have proved been the residence and burial-place of Fe- in many cases beneficial. It seems doubtful trarca. whether Fliny, by the Pontes Patavini , 2 Travellers who have no carriage of their ; means the present Baths of Abano; because own frequently embark at Francolino. which he reports the former to have emitted smells is five miles from Ferrara, and go all the way from which the latter are exempt. About to Venice by water ; a voyage of eighty miles, six miles from Abano is the PUla Catajo, on the Po, the Adige, the Bren la, and the celebrated for frescos by Paolo Veronese . Lagunes. 2 D 302 VENICE. walls for the abode of the monarch ofthe ocean, when he chooses to desert his pearl-paved caves , and emerge above the surface of his w atery kingdom ! Venice is seven miles in cir- cumference, and composed of a large number of small islands, se- parated by canals, and re-uniied by bridges ; the great canal, which is in the form of an S, dividing the city into two nearly equal parts. The Rialto, the Piazza di S. Marco, containing the Church dedicated to that Evangelist, and its Campanile three hundred feet in height, together with all the Churches and Palaces erected by Palladio, Sansovino, Scamozzi, and San Michele, particularly me- rit notice; as does the Arsenal, though an empty shadow now, of its former self : but what excites most interest at Venice is to ob- serve how amply and conveniently this city is supplied, not only with necessaries but theluxuries oflife ; though it possesses naturally nei- ther soil nor fresh water. The Basilica of S. Marco is reputed to be the most ancient Christian temple in Italy. On the outside, above the principal en- trance, is a figure of S. Mark finely executed in mosaic. The in- terior of the edifice is completely lined with Mosaics ; and those in the Chapel of the Madonna are particularly well executed : the Pavement is Mosaic ; and the Doors, which were brought from Constantinople, are Corinthian brass. The celebrated Horses of bronze gilt, carried to Paris by Napoleon, but now returned, and extremely ill placed on the outside of the church, are four in number ; and, according to general opinion, 1 The Treasury of the Church of S. Marco is said to contain the Gospel of S. Mark, [CH. XII. the work of Lysippus : they ori- ginally adorned Corinth; where, it is supposed, they belonged to the chariot of the sun : from Co- rinth they were brought to Rome by the Consul Muminius ( sur- named Achaicus, for havingsacked the first-mentioned city ) ; thence they were removed to Byzantium, and thence to Venice : Winckel- mann calls them the finest bronze horses extant . 1 The view from the top of the Campanile of S. Marco is parti- cularly well worth seeing; and the ascent particularly easy. This Tower was the place where Gali- leo made his astronomical obser- vations. The Palazzo Ex-Ducale con- tains, in the great Council Cham- ber, Tintoretto’s largest easel- picture ; which serves to show how entirely great talents may be thrown away by want of proper attention to methodical arrange- ment, the whole performance ex- hibiting a mass of confusion ; though itabounds with finegroups, and in some parts is wonderfully well executed. On the Ceiling of this apartment is a Fresco, by Paolo Veronese, representing Ve- nice crowned by Fame! and among the sculpture is a beautiful group, in marble, of Ganymedes and the Eagle, attributed to Phidias. The Hall with four doors, contains a painting, by Titian, of Faith, S. Mark, etc. The Hall ofthe Inquisi- tion is ornamented with a picture by the Cav. Bassano! and another by the School of Titian. The colle- gial Hall contains Europa, by Paolo Veronese ! and two pictures by Tintoretto. The Cabinet con- tains a Fresco on its Ceiling, by Paolo Veronese; together with written with his own hand ; and a Missal adorned w ith Miniatures, hy Giulio Ciovia. ch. xii.] VENICE. 303 easel-pictures; one being by the same master, and others by Tin- toretto. The Accademia delle belle Arti contains several fine pictures ; among which are, the Assumption by Titian, originally placed in the Church where he lies buried ! ! — the same subject by Palma Vec- chio— the resurrection of Lazarus , by Bassano ! — the marriage of Cana, by Paduanino — Adam and Eve, by Tintoretto — the Holy Fa- mily, by Paolo Veronese — and the Miracle of S. Mark, by Tinto- retto. The Chiesa de' Gesuiti (a hand- some edifice, elegantly incrusted with Mosaics of verde antique, etc., resembling in their effect green damask hangings), contains a picture of the martyrdom of S. Lorenzo, by Titian ; and, in the Sacristy, the Presentation, by Tin- toretto. The Chiesa dei Carmilitani is lined with precious marbles, and very magnificent. The Chiesa del Carmine con - tains the best Organ at Venice ; and a picture of the Presentation , by Tintoretto. The Chiesa di S. Giovanni e S. Paolo contains a painting by Titian; another by Perugino; a beautiful window of painted glass ; and, in a large Chapel adjoining the Church, some fine Alii-rilievi. The Chiesa di S. Giorgio Mag- giore was built by Palladio, in a style of grand simplicity. II Redentore was likewisebuilt by Palladio ; and is, in point of ar- chitecture, a beautiful Church. The Chiesa di S. Maria della Salute contains the Descent of the Holy Ghost, painted by Titian when he was sixty-four ; two pic- tures by Luca Giordano ; and one, by Antonio Treva, which was bu- ried eighteen years, without being materially injured. The Palazzo - Pisani - Morela contains a picture of Alexander with the family of Darius, by Paolo Veronese; a work which, seems composed in defiance to classical knowledge and good taste ; but, nevertheless, so harmo- nious is the colouring, and so beau- tiful the painting, that few person* can contemplate this picture without forgetting its faults, and dwelling only on its excellencies. The Court oj the Palazzo-Gri- mani contains a colossal statue of Marcus A grippa ; which was ori- ginally placed in the vestibule of the Pantheon at Rome. This sta- tue is Greek workmanship, and much admired. The Palazzo - Rarberigo, in which Titian died, contains a pic- ture of the Saviour, by that great artist — the Holy Family, by Tin- toretto — the portrait of a Vene- tian Senator, by Titian — the Magdalene, likewise by Titian ! — - Venus — Paul III. — and S. Sebas- tiano, all by Titian ; who left the last unfinished, in consequence of his death — Susanna and the El- ders, by Tintoretto — and the Pro- digal Son, by Leandro Bassano. The Scuola di S. Rocco con- tains, on the ground floor, a pic- ture of the Annunciation, and other Works, by Tintoretto, who painted in this School for thirty years : and in a room above stairs is a very large and fine picture of the Crucifixion, likewise by Tin- toretto. The Palazzo - Manfrini con- tains a splendid collection of pic- tures ; which may by seen by Travellers every Monday and Thursday, from ten in the morn- ing till four. The Arsenal, which occupies 304 VENICE. an Island nearly three miles in cir- cumference, is so well defended by lofty walls, turrets, etc., as to resemble a fortress. Its principal entrance is adorned, on the out- side, with the winged Lion of Venice; a colossal Lion in white marble, taken from the Piraeus at Athens! another Lion, taken from Athens ; a Lioness, taken from Corinth; and another, having the word “ Attica ’ marked upon it. The object best worth notice, within the walls, is the ancient Armoury. The Rialto, the Piazza di S. Marco, and the Street and Garden made by Napoleon (a magnificent work), are the only Promenades at Venice. This city contains several Theatres ; the largest of which is the Fenice : it likewise contains good Hotels ; namely, La Gran-Bretagna — II Lione Bianco — and L'Alhergo d'Eu- ropa : the first, though the best inn at Venice, is, during winter and the early part of spring, cold and gloomy ; the last stands in a much warmer situation. The gold chains made in this city areparticularly beautiful, and the wax-candles remarkably good . Persons who are anxious to ob- tain spring-water, may be sup- plied daily from the terra firma. On the day of our departure we dined at the Gran-Bretagna ; then went in a gondola to Mestre, slept there ; and the next morning early set out for Conegliano, where we arrived in nine hours. About ten miles from Mestre lies Treviso. Beyond Treviso we passed the Piave; and after crossing the spot where one of Napoleon’s great battles was fought, proceeded to 1 Our Voiturier paid, for three guides and two oxen, one sequin. A fine bridge has been lately thrown over [CH. Xlf. Conegliano. The latter town is I rather large, and La Posta is a good inn. Our next day’s journey was to Pordenon, which we were seven hours and three quarters in reach- ing ; the road between this place and Conegliano being bad at all times, and after rain dangerous, as it lies close to the foot of the Alps, from which mountains tor- rents of water frequently descend, and inundate the adjacent country. La Posta , at Pordenon, is a good inn : here we slept ; and next morning proceeded in nine hours to S. Tommaso. Our road, as far as Spilimbergo, lay near the Alps, and through the bed of a torrent, disagreeable at all times, and unsafe after rain. From Spi- limbergo we decended into the Tagliamento, a tremendous tor- rent after rain, but in dry wea- ther fordable. It takes a full hour to travel through this water, with the assistance of oxen and guides ; x and though the weather, before we crossed, had long been dry, the different streams of which the Tagliamento is composed were wide and rapid, insomuch as to be very disagreeable. Soon af ter ford- ing this torrent, we passed a town called S. Agnello, a little beyond which is the village of S. Tom- maso. The road on this side the Tagliamento is good ; the inn at S. Tonunaso is bad. Our next day’s journey was to Ponteba, orPontafel, whither we were twelve hours in going. We took the road by Osoppo, that be- ing deemed the best ; though even that, as far as L’Ospedalletto, is rough and dangerous, especially for the first ten miles. At L’Os- the Tagliamento ; but is not, l believe, yet completely finished. ch. xii. 1 CARINTHIA, 305 pedaletto, we entered a defile of the Alps, which leads to Venzone, a pretty town, embosomed in these mountains ; and hence to Resiuta we found the road, which lies parallel with the bed of the Tagliamento, excellent, the views sublime, and the Alpine plants, which enamel the rocks, particu- larly beautiful. The inn at Re- siuta is clean and comfortable ; but the water here, as in most parts of the Alps, is bad ; and many in- habitants of this country, espe- cially women, are afflicted with immense goitrous swellings. At Resiuta we began to pass bridges made of wood, and covered at the top ; there are five or six of them in this part of the Alps; and in Germany, likewise, all the bridges are made of wood, though not all covered at the top. From Resiuta, which is somewhat above half way to Ponteba, the road lies through defiles of the Alps, near the bed of the Tagliamento, and is good, though too narrow; the views are sublime. Ponteba, the frontier town of Carinthia, is a miserable-looking place; and here our luggage un- derwent so rigorous an examina- tion in the open street, before we were suffered to drive to the inn, that it required Argus’s eyes not to be plundered of every thing va- luable our trunks contained, and Herculean strength to unpack and repack, after the fatigue ot a twelve hours’ journey : such, indeed, is the inconvenience Travellers must necessarily be exposed to at this custom-house, that I would advise nobody to pass Ponteba who can possibly go another way ; it being the great object of the custom- 1 Your 6ilks, etc. are plumbed; you are asked what road you purpose taking; and ) ou then receive an order tor the money you house officers to thieve; for which purpose, they endeavour to throw small parcels on the ground, under the carriages, and even examine coach-seats, writing-boxes, and letters. They seize gold and sil- ver lace, snuff, and tobacco ; and for unmade silks, gauzes, etc., they oblige you to deposit double the worth, to be paid back, how- ever, when you quit the Imperial territories. 1 They accept no fees; and are slower in their operations than it is possible to conceive. After sleeping at Ponteba, where the inn is a bad one, we proceeded in ten hours and a quarter to Villach, through a wide defile of the Alps, and f ound, the road good, and the country beautiful, every mountain being clothed to its summit with noble fir-trees. The German villages, however, at the foot of the moun- tains, in some measure spoil the beauty of the scene, as nothing can be more uncouth than the wooden buildings which compose them, except the fences, which are, if possible, still worse. The houses are roofed with wood ; and the consequence is, that these awk- ward edifices are continually burnt to the ground. The Ger- mans seldom have a wash-hand basin in any bed-room of their country inns ; and even at Villach, a large town, we could not find one. The inn we slept at, how- ever (its sign, The ( row nj, is clean and good ; though tall peo- ple cannot sleep comfortably, either here or in any part of Ger- many; the beds, which are very narrow, being placed in wooden frames, or boxes, so short, that any person who happens to be above have deposited to he rolnrncd at the C as tom* house ou the coniines. 2 d2 306 UPPER- AU STRIA . ch. xir. jive feet high must absolutely sit up all night, supported by pillows; and this is, in fact, the way in which the Germans sleep. With respect to provisions, we found no cause for complaint ; meat, bread, and wine (some- what like Hock), beer, soup, and bouillie, sour - crout, stewed prunes, coffee, and milk, being excellent ; and water, generally speaking, good. The usual din- ner-hour is twelve o’clock; at which time Travellers may always find something to eat at the inns, German cookery being simple and wholesome. One requisite to a comfortable meal it is, how- ever, very difficult to obtain, namely, clean table-linen : we, indeed, Avere obliged to purchase table-cloths and napkins on our journey ; so much were we dis- gusted by the dirty linen which wasproduced every where, except in the very large towns. Women, in this country, seem to work harder than men ; and at public-houses female servants not only cook the dinner, and wait at table, but even feed the horses. The peasantry have fine complex- ions, with a great appearance of health and strength, but their countenances seldom express good-humour, or quickness of apprehension; they dress neatly, and wear high shoes, like those of cur English Farmers. The women are said to be depraved in their morals. Most of the country towns through which we passed consist of straight streets, with a large square in their centre, adorned by an obelisk, statues of the Ma- donna, our Saviour, etc. The German horses are remarkably strong and handsome; and the whole country, from Ponteba to Yienna, wears the facd of wealth, more, perhaps, than any other part of Europe. The passing through this part of Germany seems like living some hundred years ago in Eng- land ; as the dresses, customs, and manners, of the people pre- cisely resemble those of our ances- tors. Many of their implements of husbandry, also, appear similar to ours; and their kitchens are furnished with plates, dishes, basins, and ewers of pewter, and wooden trenchers, exactly like those which may still be seen among us, in old farm-houses. The herbs and shrubs also re- semble those of England, except that barberry - bushes are sub- stituted for blackberries ; while the firs grow so luxuriantly, that young plants, a few inches high, literally carpet the woods. The road from L’Ospedalietto to Yillach possesses one great advantage, that of being perhaps the only approach to Italy which does not lie over the summits of the Alps. It is, indeed, remark- able, that although we were sur- rounded by these “ cloud-clapt” mountains the whole of the way, we seldom, if ever, descended a hill steep enough to render a drag-chain necessary ; neither did we perceive any fault in the road, its narrowness excepted. From Yillach we proceeded to- Klagenfurt, in eight hours and a half, through a good road, and a finely cultivated and beautiful country, adorned wtih a noble sheet of water, called the Lake of Fel. The vallies are variegated with small villages and rustic churches, like those of England ; the near mountains clothed to UPPER-AUSTRIA. 307 CH. XII.] their summits with firs and other trees, while behind them rise Alps eovered with eternal snow. Klagenfurt, is a large and strongly-fortified city ; the houses are tolerably neat, and the spires of the churches built in the Turk- ish style, and covered with white metal. We slept at The Golden Star , a tolerable inn, and next day proceeded, in nine hours and a half, to Friesach, through an excellent road, and a bold, finely wooded, and richly culti- vated country. In the way to Friesach lies S.Veit, a handsome town. We found The Wolf at Friesach a good inn; and af- ter sleeping there, drove in ten hours and a quarter to Judenburg, stopping, however, at Neumark, which is about midway, to dine. We found the road to Neumark smooth, and the country well cultivated, though less beautiful than before ; but as we approached Judenburg it became picturesque and finely wooded. We slept at The Golden Cross and Scy the , a clean good inn, and went next day, in nine hours and a quarter, to Leoben. Our road continued good, winding near a meandering stream called the Muhr, and the views were beautiful. Travellers usually dine about midway, at Khraubath . T he Imperial Eagle at Leoben is a comfortable inn, and the town is rather handsome, many of the houses being built with stone or brick. Our next day’s journey was through Brack to Merzhofen, which we reached in five hours and three quarters, and therefore might easily have gone further; but hearing that the beds at the 1 From Morzuschlag we took extra horses to the summit of this mountain, which Tra- next Post were engaged, and find- ing the inn at Merzhofen tolerable, we slept there, and then proceed- ed, in nine hours and a half, to Schottwien, passing through a good road to Morzuschlag, where we dined, and then ascended a very lofty mountain, at the foot of which lies Schottwien . 1 The ascent is good, and takes up about one hour; the descent employs more than double that time, and is sharp and dangerous, the road being narrow and ill-kept, inso- much that waggons ascend on the Schottwien side with sixteen and sometimes twenty horses. We found the country from Merzhofen to Schottwien wild, and finely wooded ; and previous to our ar- rival at Morzuschlag we passed the town of Krieglach. The Post House at Schottwien is a tolerable inn. Our next day’s journey was to Traskirken, whither the drive took up ten hours and a quarter. After quilting Schottwien we entered an extensive plain highly cultivated, and passed through Neukirken and Neustadt, reaching the latter in about six hours and a half. Neukirken is a large town, and contains good inns. Neustadt also is large, contains good inns, and is fortified. We dined here, and afterward proceeded to Traskir- ken, through a flat and good road, exhibiting, to the right, a prospect of Hungary and the Danube. We slept at Traskirken (which, though it may be called a large town, doesnot possess comfortable inns); and then drove, next morn- ing, in four hours and a half, to "Vienna, through a flat country, vcllers should not descend after it becomes dark. 308 VIENNA. [ch. xrp. enna . — The Imperial Arsenal — the buildings of the university , and the Imperial Chancery — the On entering Vienna we were Bank — the Mini once thePalace taken to the custom-house, where of Prince Eugene — the Chancery the officers, though apt to be of Bohemia and Austria — the troublesome to foreigners, were Hotel de Tille — the Fountain, by civil to us. The hotels in this Donner, which adorns the Neu- city are not so good as might rea- Markt ~—the Imperial Library , sonably be expected in the capital said to contain 300,000 printed of a great empire, and therefore the volumes, and 12,000manuscripts, most comfortable mode ofliving and always open to the public is to take a private apartment, from eight in the morning till and employ a Traiteur . twelve, during summer ; and from Vienna, properly so called, and nine to twelve, during winter, built at the confluence of the Da- Sundays and other holidays ex- nube and the Wien, is small, but cepted. This Library is enriched strongly fortified; its faubourgs, with an ancient Tomb, brought however, are immense, and con- from the vicinity of Ephesus; tain finer buildings than the an Etruscan Vase, celebrated by town itself ; in which the palaces Winckehnann; and the famous Sc- are few, and not spacious; and natus Consultum, mentioned by the want of those splendid streets Livy. The Imperial Private Li - and squares which usually em- brary — the Jewels of the Crown hellish the capital of a great — the Imperial Cabinet of Medals, empire, prevents il from appear- whichcontainsacelebratedCameo ing, to foreign eyes, a handsome of Alexander, by Pyrgoteles ; and city. the Imperial Cabinet of Natural Among the objects best worth History, open every Tuesday notice are, the Imperial Resi - morning. dence , the great Chapel belong- The Imperial Gallery of Paint- ing to which is adorned with two ings at the Belvedere , which con- altar-pieces, by Titian — the Ca- tains a large work, by Titian, thedral t and Holbrook, Westminster-Road, are convenient on the Continent. Savage, in Queen-Street, Long-Acre, fits up travelling-carriages remarkably well. 2 r 326 APPENDIX. trunk should have an outside cover of strong sail cloth painted. Persons who travel with their own sheets, pillows, and blankets, should double them up of a con- venient size, and then place them in their carriage, by way of cu- shions, making a leather sheet the envelope. Ten drops of essential oil of lavender, distributed about a bed, will drive away either bugs or fleas : and five drops of sulphuric acid, put into a large decanter of had water, will make the noxious particles deposit themselves at the bottom, and render the water wholesome : twenty drops of di- luted vitriolic acid will produce the same effect.* Persons who wish to preserve health, during a long journey, * Alter the vitriolic acid has heen put into the water, it should stand two hours; and then three parts of the water should he poured into another decanter, and the rest thrown away. f Persons who are going from London to [CH. I. should avoid sitting many hours together in a carriage, by alight- ing and walking on while their horses are changed, provided they travel post ; and by walking up all the ascents, provided they tra- vel en voiturier ; and persons who get wetted through should take off their clothes as soon as possible, rub themselves with Eau de Co- logne , and then put on dry warm linen, scented with Hungary water. I will now close this subject by observing, that Travellers should never fail, before they enter an Inn upon the Continent, to make a strict bargain with the Land- lord relative to their expenses ; and bargains of every description should be made in the currency of the country .f the Continent, and wish, previous to their departure, to exchange Bank-notes for Na- poleons, may be provided with the latter, at a few hours’ notice, by Fisher and Co., No, 3, Cockspux-Street. CHAPTER II Sleam-Packet from London to Calais— Ditto from Dover to Calais— Ditto from Dover to Bou- logne — Expense of going from Dover to Calais in a Post-Office Packet — Ditto from Dover to Ostend — Expense of going from Brighthelmstone to Dieppe, and from Southampton to Havre — Vessel from Plymouth to Bordeaux — Diligence from London to Paris — Dejean and Emery good Voiturins — Dover, best inn— Calais, best inns — Expense of hiring carriages — Tax upon English carriages— Sealed letters— Money of France— Expense attendant upon travelling on the Continent— Excursion from Plymouth to Guernsey, S. Malo, Nantes, Tours, and Orleans — Price of Post-horses, etc. — Water-Diligence — Public carriages — Canal of Lan- guedoc— Messagerie A Cheval— Distance from Calais to Paris through Amiens— Ditto through Beauvais — Distance from Ostend to Paris — from Dieppe to ditto— from Havre to ditto — Route from Calais through Amiens to Paris — Ditto from Calais through Beauvais to Paris — Ditto from Ostend through Lille to Paris— Ditto from Dieppe through Rouen to Paris — Ditto from Havre through Rouen to Paris— Hotels in the last-named city— Firewood— Quarters of the. town in which apartments at Hotels are most expensive— Quarters' in which they are most reasonable— Unfurnished apartments— Eatables and wine— Restaurateurs — Cafes — Very, a celebrated Restaurateur— Wages of a Valet-de-place — Price of job-coaches and hackney- carriages— Ditto of public carriages which go to Versailles, etc — Ditto of public boats, pro- visions, breakfast and dinner at a Restaurateur’s— Best shops— Music and Dancing Masters ^-English Library and Newspapers — Notary Public who transacts business for the British Nation — English Surgeon— Apothecaries and Chemists — Upholsterers — Prices at the Theatres — Messageries Royales— Offices of the Coche-d’eau— Voituriers, where to be found— Their usual prices— General Post — Petite Post — Route from Paris through Dijon to Geneva — Paris through Lyons to Chambery — Paris through Nevers and Moulins to Lyons — Lyons through Avignon and Aix to Nice — Lyons to Avignon by water — Avignon to Nismes and Montpellier — Aix to Marseilles and Toulon— Paris to Bordeaux and Bayonne —Paris to Brest — Paris to Dunkirk — Lille through Ypres to Ostend— Lille to Brussels — Paris through Brussels to Ostend — Paris through Rheims to Liege— Paris through Chalons-sur-Marne to Strasburg — Paris through Troyes to Strasburg — Paris through Langres to Besan^on — Paris to Grenoble — Paris through Toulouse to Perpignan — Paris through Chartres to La Rochelle — Paris through Caen to Cherbourg— Paris through Rennes to L’Orient — Paris to Nantes— Nantes through Rennes to S. Malo. A Steam-packet has been recent- ly established to run, in twelve hours, from her Moorings, off t lie Tower of London, to Calais di- rect, every Wednesday and Sa- turday morning/ and she returns from Calais on Mondays and Thursdays. Fares. — Chief-cabin, 32s. — fore-cabin and fore-deck, 22s. — i Children under ten years of age, half- price f~ four - wheeled car- riages, 41., and two-wheeled car- i riages, 21. each. -/-Refreshments to be had on board — dinner, 2s. (5d. Every passenger is allowed one hundred weight of baggage, which must be sent to Galley -Quay, Lower Thames- street. Passen- gers’ names, with the keys of their trunks, must be addressed to Mr. Norman, No. 1, Water -Lane, Tower-Street, London, and sent (as must the baggage) not later than one o’clock the day previous to starling. \ Steam Packets are likewise esta- blished to run from Dover to Ca- lais in about three hours and a half ; and vice versa ; and from 328 APPENDIX. Dover to Boulogne, and vice versa. These Packets are less liable than other vessels to produce sea sickness ; carriages, without being dismounted, are safely conveyed in them; and the time in which they reach their destined port, can, during moderate weather, he ascertained to a nicety : but nautical men appear to question the prudence of venturing in a Steam Packet, unless the weather be moderate. The charges in the Steam Vessels which run from Dover to Calais, and Boulogne, and vice versa, are the same as in Post-Office Packets. The expense of going from Dover to Calais in a Post-Office Packet is as follows : i. s. d. Ladies, Genllemen, and female Servants, each 0 10 6 Men Servants, each .... 0 5 0 Four-wheeled carriages, each 3 3 0 Horses, each 110 Dismounting and shipping a four-wheeled carriage . . 0 10 6 Shipping trunks, etc., about .050 Wharfage 0 4 0 Town and Harbour dues ..020 Commissioner 0 5 0 The duty on every horse is seventeen shillings ; which, with other charges, amounts to about three pounds per horse. The expense of going from Do- ver to Ostend in a Post-Office Packet is as follows : l. s. d. Ladies and Genllemen, each .110 Servants, each 0 10 6 Persons who land at Ostend, in- stead of Calais, save two posts and a half on their way to Paris ; be- side an extra-charge of half a post, which is paid on leaving Calais. 4 * Persons who do not cross the Channel in a Steam-packet, should endeavour to reach Calais soon enough to save the tide : by doing which they are enabled to land from their vessel on the Quay, instead of being taken on shore in a French Harbour-boal, and obliged to [CH. II. Families who sail in a Post- Office Packet are expected to give a trifling gratuity to the Mariners. Post-Office Packets sail from Dover for Calais four times a week, and for Ostend once a week. The passage from Dover to Boulogne is somewhat longer than from Dover to Calais : but per- sons who land at Boulogne save four posts and a quarter on their way to Paris : it must, however, be acknowledged, that the pas- sage from Dover to Boulogne is^ generally speaking, less favourable than from Dover to Calais; though, on returning to England, the Boulogne packets usually have a much shorter and better pas- sage than those which sail from Calais. The distance between Dover and Calais is twenty-six miles and a half ; and between Dover and Ostend rather more. Passengers find their own pro- visions. * The expense of going from Brighthelmstone to Dieppe in a public Packet is as follows : l. s. d. Ladies and Gentlemen, each .1116 besides three shillings to the Boat- man who takes Passengers on board ; and the same to the Boat- man who takes them on shore at Dieppe. i. s. d. Four-wheeled carriages, each .440 Passengers find their own pro- visions; and tire common pas- sage, with a fair wind, is from eight to ten hours. The expense of going from Southampton to Havre in the public Packet is as follows : % pay four livres and a half per head for going. Persons who land in a Harbour-boat at Dover (which is only ^eedful when the tide does not serve to bring deck-vessels close to the Dover Quay) are charged four shillings per head. ch. ii.] FRANCE. 3 29 l. s. d. Ladies and Genllemen, each .220 .Servants, each 110 Children each, if under twelve years 110 Four-wheeled carriage ... 5 5 0 ■which, with other charges, a- moimts to between six and seven guineas. y Two- wheeled carriage ... 3 3 0 Horses, each ..440 Cabin, if a Family take it entirely to them- selves, 2 11. Provisions during the voyage, half a guinea per head. The Southampton Packets usu- ally sail twice a week. A new and fast sailing Gutter of fifty^six tons register, called “The Sarah, goes from Plymouth to Bordeaux every fortnight; and particulars respecting passage- money, etc., may be obtained, by an application to Hawker and Sons, Briton Side, Plymouth. t A DiligenGe goes periodically from London to Paris ; and places maybe taken, andparcelsbooked, at the White Bear, Piccadilly, in the former city ; and at the Mes- sageries Roy ales de la Rue Notre Dame des Victoires , in the latter. The whole expense usually incurred by each inside-Passen- ger, from London to Paris, is about five pounds ; and outside- Passengers, of course, pay less : they sit with the Conducteur ,* on a comfortable seat, which holds three persons, in front of the Di- ligence. Every Passenger is al- lowed to take, cost-free, as much luggage as weighs fourteen pounds^ Dejean, of Geneva, conveys Passeugers from London, through Paris, to Switzerland and Italy, allowing them to remain two days in the last-named city; or longer, provided they agree to pay an extra-price for so doing. Fur- ther particulars may be obtained by an application at No. 33, Hay- Market, London. Emery, an excellent "Voiturin, likewise conveys Passengers from London, through Paris, to Swit- zerland and Italy. Further par- ticulars may be obtained by an application to Recordon, Watch- maker, Cockspur-street, Charing- Cross, No. 33; or to Emery him- self, at the White Bear, Picca- dilly. f The best Inn at Dover is Steri- kers London Hotel. The most comfortable Inns at Calais are L' Hotel Dessin andQw/7- lacq's . The Ho tel Royal and Hotel Meurice are likevyise good inns. They all furnish travelling car- riages, which may be either pur- chased or hired : and a carriage hired at Calais to go to Paris, re- mains there, at the disposal of the Hirer, during fifteen days ; so that he may, within that period, return in it to Calais without additional expense. A F rencli Cabriolet may usually be hired for about four Napoleons; and a coach for five or six. Every English carriage, on en- tering France, is valued at the Custom-House; and one-third of the value deposited there, by the owner; who, on quitting France, by the same route, receives back about two thirds of the deposit: unless he stay beyond three years, * The Conducteur has the charge of Pas- sengers and luggage. f Coaches corresponding with the Messa - : geries Royales, Rue Notre Dome des Vic- I toires, at Paris, go every morning and even- l ing trorn The Golden Cross, Charing-Cross ; i and also from The Cross-Keys, Wood-street, 1 Cneapside, lu these Oilices places may ho secured to Diver, Calais, Paris, and all the great towns of France ; and likewise to Brus- sels, Geneva, and Milan. The Direcleur des A lessagertes in Lon- don engages to convey luggage of every de- scription to any part of the Continent, either by the Diligence or the Rootage. 2 F 2 330 APPENDIX. in which case the whole sum is forfeited. Should he quit France by a route different to that where- by he entered, he must have his Custom-house papers counter- signed at the last Frontier-Bureau; and then, either send them to the Custom-house where his deposit was made, requesting to have the sum due to him remitted to hist Banker ; or, should he design passing again through France within the specified three years, he may, by retaining his papers, and producing them at the Cus- tom-house belonging to the Port where he embarks his carriage, recover the two thirds of his de- posit. Beside this deposit, a duty of twenty francs is paid upon every English carriage when landed in France; and between thirty and forty francs more are usually charged for clearance, etc. English Families on arriving at Calais, or Boulogne, generally commission their landlord to clear their luggage ; and the great Inns at Calais, and Boulogne, are pro- vided with Commissaries who manage this business ; for doing which they expect per carriage and family, ten francs. , Travellers charged with sealed letters should not expose them to the vie w of Custom-house Officers; and luggage should be plumbed at every Frontier Custom-house. money of France. Gold coins most in use are the Napoleon, or new Louis, worth twenty francs ; the double Na- poleon, worth forty francs; and the old Louis, worth twenty-three francs and eleven sous. Silver coins most in use are, the piece of five francs ; the piece of two francs ; the piece of one [ch. IT, franc ; and the piece of fifty cen- times, being half a franc. Copper coins most in use are, the piece of two sous, being ten centimes ; and the piece of one sou, being five centimes. Twenty sous make one franc, or livre, for they are syno- nymous. y Accounts are kept in francs and centimes, both by Bankers and other persons : but, as the different Banking-houses at Paris vary in the prices they give for paper drawn on them, it is ad- visable for Travellers to make in- quiries respecting this subject be- fore they leave England. Napoleons are the most profit- able coin a Traveller can take to France : and it is, generally speaking, easy to exchange Eng- lish money for Napoleons, at Do- ver, Brighthelmstone, and Soutly ampton. The expense attendant upon travelling on the Continent great- ly depends upon the disposition of the Travellers, and the manner in which they travel. Persons who go post in an English carriage, preceded by a Courier, usually disburse a large sum of money, without living at all more luxuri- ously than persons who travel in a Diligence. At small provincial Inns, I have often seen better din- ders carried to the Table d'Hote than my Family procured by the order of our Courier. We were, indeed, sometimes compelled to * wait for the refuse of the Table d'H&te, probably because the larder at a provincial Inn may not always be sufficiently well stored to provide for Travellers who go post, and are therefore accidental Visitors; though Dili- gence - Passengers, being con- stant Customers, are certain to find a good meal prepared for 331 ch. ii.l FRANCE -EXPENSE OF TR /WELLING. them. After this preface, the Reader will not be surprised when I subjoin, that persons who travel post in France, with an avant-Courier , seldom pay less, ! jer head, than three francs for jreakfast, and ten for supper and beds : but persons who travel without parade (though in their own carriage), seldom pay more, per head, than two francs for breakfast, three for dinner, and from five to six and a half for supper and beds.* •—Fees to Servants at public- houses are very moderate ; a Porter never expect'ng more than twelve sous, and a Chambermaid or. Waiter, never more than dou- ble that sum, from each Travel- ler. Twenty-four sous are like- wise quite sufficient to satisfy the Servant who greases the wheels of a travelling-carriage. French Inns, some years since, were not celebrated for cleanliness, beds and table-linen excepted ; but now they are, on all points, much improved. ^ An English Gentleman, who lately made an excursion from Plymouth to Guernsey, and thence to S. Malo, Rennes, Nantes, Tours, and Orleans, gives the following account of expenses, etc. Passage from Guernsey to S. Malo, for an Adult, ten shillings English ; and for a child under twelve years of age, five shillings English. f The road from S. Malo to Rennes is rough ; from Rennes to Nantes better ; and from Nantes to Tours and Orleans excellent. The banks of the Loire (an- * Persons who travel in their own carriage are usually charged at the Hotel-Dessin, at Calais, for breakfast, per head, 2 francs — dinner, 6 francs — coffee, 1 franc — bed and sitting-room, 9 francs— and for their servants, per head, three francs and a half for break- ciently called the Ligeris ), be- tween S. Malo and Orleans, are en- chanting. Nature, indeed, seems to have borrowed the pencils of Salvator Rosa and Claude Lorrain to unite, in one vast and ever-va- rying landscape, the boldness and sublimity of the one, with all the placid beauties of the other. Pas- sage-boats may be met with to de- scend the Loire from Orleans to Nantes, one of the most delightful aquatic excursions in France. The Masters of these boats land their Passengers every evening, that they may eat and sleep on shore; and the fare, from Orleans to Nantes, does not exceed fifteen francs. The latter is a handsome town, pleasantly situated ; and containing excellent Inns. Good dinners, table-wine inclusive, are furnished by the Innkeepers here at three francs a bead; and a large Family may live very comfortably in this part of France for five hun- dred pounds per annum. Tours is a handsome town, containing two excellent Inns, The Boule d’or, and The Faisan; and, likewise, an English Protestant - Chapel. Innkeepers at Tours furnish break- fast, without tea, for one franc a head ; dinner, table-wine inclu- sive, for three francs ; and a bed for about thirty sous. .The fruit in this neighbour- hood is delicious, and remarkably PRICE OF POST-HORSES, etc. The usual price for every horse is one franc and fifty centimes (thirty sous) a post ; and every fast and dinner: hut, at other Hotels, some of the charges are more moderate. f A Packet sails from Weymouth to Guern- sey every Wednesday and Saturday, weather permitting ; and the Hotels iu both places are good. 332 APPENDIX. [CH. II. French post is, generally speak- ing, from five to six English miles in iength. A driver cannot demand more than seventy-five centimes (fifteen sous) a post ; but expects from thirty to thirty-five sous for a com- mon post, and twice that sum for a post-ro^al. Postillions, indeed, both in France and Italy, seem to think they have a right to the same sum, per post, for themselves, that the postmasters charge per horse. Travellers, on arriving in France, ought to purchase the “ Livre de Posted a new edition of which is printed yearly ; and as alterations are frequently made in this post-book, it is expedient to enquire for the last edition. The following regulations are usually found in the 64 Livre de Poste .” Two-wheeled carriages, called cabriolets , must have two horses and one postillion. Coaches, called berlines, and post-chaises with poles, must al- ways have four horses ; though never more than six ; with two postillions. Four-wheeled carriages a limo - mere (that is, with shafts, instead of a pole), must have three horses and one postillion. Post-masters at Paris, and with- in fifteen leagues of that city, are forbidden to supply a stranger with post-horses, unless the 5tran- ger exhibit a permission to travel post, from the Direcieur General ; which permission is delivered, gra- tis, to every person who presents a proper passport. It is the custom now in France to put shafts to every English post- chaise ; lashing the pole under the perch : because an English post- chaise, conveying four persons, is permitted to travel with one pos- tillion and three horses (four being paid for) , provided it have shafts ; which can always be obtained in post-towns for twenty francs : and this mode of travelling generally costs about fourteen-pence, Eng- lish, per mile, fees to postillions inclusive. An English post-chaise, con- veying three persons only, is per- mitted to travel with one postils lion and three horses, no fourth horse being paid for, provided the carriage have shafts. Distances, in this country, arg computed by leagues; one French league being equal to about three thousand geometrical paces ; and stones are frequently placed half a league from each other, on great roads, to mark distances. * TARIFF, CABRIOLETS. No. of I No. of Price per g Tota i. Persons. Horses. Horse. U 1 2 lV, Francs. 3 Francs. 2 2 1% 3 3 3 ih 4 3 2 6 LUttONIERES. 1,2, or 3 3 n 4 3 2 6 N. B. For every person exceeding the number of four, there is an extra charge of on© franc and fifty centimes. BEELINES. 1 , 2, 3, or 4 4 1 % 6 5 or 6 6 l’i 9 N. B. For every person exceeding the number of six, there is an extra charge of one franc and fifty centimes. A berline is not to be drawn by more than six horses. One child, if under seven years, pays nothing : and two children, if not above that age, are consi- * As there are no regular toll-gates either it he on crossing some of the new bridges in France or Italy, Travellers seldom find (where a toll of from one to three francs per themselves called upon to contribute toward carriage is paid); and likewise on crossing the expense of repairing the roads; except the Simplon, and the Mont Cenis. ch. ii.] FRANCE-PUBLIC CONVEYANCES. 333 ' dered equivalent to only one adult. In cases where permission is granted to post-masters to put on extra-horses, the third, or extra- horse, is charged at one franc and fifty centimes per post. This per- mission is sometimes granted for the whole year, and sometimes for the six winter months only, commencing on the first of No- vember. It is customary, in ascending the mountain of Tartare, near Lyons, and the mountain of Echelles, to emplpy oxen ; and to pay for them, per pair, thirty sous a post. It is likewise customary and advisable, at every post, to pay the post-master for his horses be- fore they set out. The posts in France are well served ; and the roads, generally speaking, good : it has, however, of late years, been much the prac- tice to travel in Diligences ; which go, both by land and water, from Paris to all the departments of the empire. The Water -Diligence, called a Coche-cV eau , should al- ways be preferred to the Land- Diligence in those provinces where the roads are rough, and where the Traveller can descend a river ; to ascend being tedious. USUAL PRICE OF PUBLIC CARRIAGES THROUGHOUT FRANCE. One inside place, per league, in a Dili- gence Sous 16 One pines in the cabriolet, or outside scat of a Diligence 10 One place in a Fourgon, or luggage- cart 6 One place in a Coche-d’eau .... 3 Public carriages in France are more convenient and less crowded * W e experienced this ; for, on our arrival at Lyons, we found it necessary to send our imperials by the Diligence to Nice ; they con- tained trinkets, lace, etc. of considerable va- than in England ; and the civility Foreigners generally receive from Conductors of Diligences, Pas- sengers, and Inn-keepers, renders this mode of conveyance plea- sant : beside which, luggage of every description is conveyed re- markably safe by French Dili- gences. * The Diligence which goes from Paris to Brussels contains eight places ; the distance is sixty-six leagues ; and every passenger pays three louis-d’or ; being, for that sum, provided with dinner, sup- per, half a bottle of table-wine at each meal, and a good bed at night. Sometimes, indeed, there are several beds in the same cham- ber; but, for twenty sous extra, a room containing only one bed may usually be procured. The Passengers pay the fees to servants at inns, who do not, however, ex- pect more than ten sous per night from any person travelling in a Diligence. The Brussels Diligence stops on the first night at Peronne, on the second at Mons, and on the third arrives at Brussels. CANAL OF LANGUEDOC. From Bordeaux to Toulouse, against the stream, the Merchant- boat is ten days in going up the Garonne : from Toulouse to Bor- deaux, with the stream, three days in going down. The price, per head, in the Merchant-boat, from Bordeaux to Toulouse, is twelve livres. The price per head in the Government packet-boat down the Canal, from Toulouse to Be- ziers, is nine livres ten sous; and lue; and, owing to inattention on the part of our Courier, were neither locked nor corded : but, nevertheless, arrived at Nice in perfect safely. 334 APPENDIX. [ch. ir. the accommodations are good. Luggage, per quintal, costs four livres twelve sous ; and the time employed in going is three days. The voyage, on board a Merchant- boat, from Toulouse to Cette, ge- nerally occupies a week. Mer- chant-boats take carriages ; but the Government packet boat does not. Between Bordeaux and Tou- louse, during summer, the Ga- ronne is occasionally so shallow that boats cannot pass. The canal shuts on the fifteenth of August, that it may be cleansed, and opens again on the first of October. The towns visited by Travellers who pursue this route are, Bor- deaux, Toulouse, Villefranche, Carcassonne, Beziers, and Adge ; whereV essels bound for Marseilles may be heard of daily, by an ap- plication at the Custom-house. Travellers may go from Paris to Cette by the inland navigation. The passage by sea, for one per- son, from Cette to Leghorn, costs three Napoleons; and from Mar- seilles to Leghorn , five Napoleons. MESSAGERIE A CIIEVAL. In the western and southern parts of France, persons who choose to travel on horseback consign their luggage to the Mes- sager- en- chef, who conveys it from place to place in a Fourgon, or covered cart, setting out him- self very early every morning ; but previously informing his Pas- sengers where they are to dine, and likewise where they are to sleep. He provides them with good horses ; and does not re- gulate their hour of departure * If Travellers find themselves aggrieved, either hy an Innkeeper or a Postmaster in France, they should have immediate recourse to the Maire or Sou«-Prefet of the district; these Magistrates being; bound, to redress further than to require that they shall reach the dining-place by twelve at noon. On arriving, they always find a good dinner prepared for them, with half a bottle of table-wine allotted to each passenger. After dinner they set out again; and, on reaching the inn where they are to sleep, find a good supper ready to be served; and, generally speaking, every passenger gets a good bed. The Mes sager seldom takes his little troop above six leagues a day : and so economical is this mode of travelling, that, from Nantes to Paris, a journey of ninety leagues, the price is only sixty francs, every expense, ex- cept fees to servants at inns, in- clusive. ^ The distance from Calais to Paris, through Amiens, is computed to he, English miles 186$j From Calais to Paris, through Beauvais 172 From Ostcnd to Paris, through Lille . 192$. From Dieppe to Paris, through Rouen 123 From Havre-de-Grace to Paris, through Rouen . . . , 164 £ ROUTE FROM CALAIS, THROUGH AMIENS, TO PARIS. Posts. Hautbuisaon — Road good. An extra halt post is paid on quilting Calais. 1 Marquise — Best inn, Le Cerf. 1$ Boulogne — Road paved. When the pave- ment is not well kept, say to your postillion, “ Allez sur la terre and he will generally take the road on the side of the pavement. Par- ker’s Hotel cVAnglelerre and V Ho- tel de Londres are good inns. A Packet is established to sail from Rye lo Boulogne every Monday. Price, for each Cabin Passenger, one guinea. 2 Samer— The Tete de Bceuf is a good inn. 1 Cormont — Best inn, Le Renard. I'l Montreuil — The water here is bad. L’Ho - tel de Londres and VHitel de V Eu- rope are good inns. Vh Nampont 1 Bern ay 1 Nouvoin — The country from Calais hi- grievances. Every Postmaster is obliged to keep, under the superintendence of the Maire of the district, a Register, in which Travellers have a right to enter their com- plaints. H. II.] ther is, generally speaking, open, and thinly peopled. l]a Abbeville— A handsome city, seated on the Somme, and supposed to contain 20,000 inhabitants. Best inns. The Tete de Bceuf, L' Hotel d'Angle- terre, L'Hotel de l’ Europe, and L'Hotel de France. IX Ailly le Haut Clocher JX Flixcourt 1 Pecquigny 1$ Amiens — anciently Ambianus. This is a large and handsome city, and a cheap place for permanent resi- dence. The Cathedral here ( par- ticularly its nave) is deemed the most perfect piece of Gothic archi- tecture in France; and the best inns are, The Post-house, L’Hotel du Roi de Frusse, L’Hotel de I’Abreu - voir, and L’Hotel des Ambassa- deurs. The country from Abbe- ville hither abounds with corn ; and many parts of the road are bordered with fruit-trees. An extra half post is paid on quitting Amiens. 1 Hebercourt 1 Fleurs 1% Breteuil— The Hotel de S. Nicolas here is a tolerably good inn. IX Wavigny 1 S. Juste* — The road from Boulogne hither is good ; and hence to Paris paved and in excellent condition. 2 Clermont— Le Point du Jour is a tole- rable inn. IS Lingueville IX Chantilly 1$ Luzarches IX Ecouen — The Hotel de Lille is a very good inn. IX S. Denis 1 Paris— An extra post is paid, both on entering and on quitting this city. Zi% posts. j ROUTE FROM CALAIS, THROUGH BEAUVAIS, TO PARIS. This road is less hilly than that through Amiens, and in all re- spects equally good. 13& Abbeville — See the preceding route, from Calais, through Amiens, to Paris. 2X Airaines— The Post-house is a good inn; and Le Lion d’Or appears good. IX Camps IX Poix Granvilliers — V Hot el d’Angleterre is the only tolerable inn. IX Marseille-sur-Oise — Best inns, Le Grand Cerf, and L’Epee Royale. 2X Beauvais— Best inns, L’Ecu de France, * The Postmaster has a right to put on an extra horse from S. Juste to Clermont. f Lille contains a good School for young Ladies, kept by persons of high respectability, who teach the French, English, German and Italian languages, together with music, dan- 335 Les Trois Fleurs-de-Lis , and Le Cygne. \% Noailles IX Puisieux IX Beaumont-sur-Oise— Best inns, Le Paon , and Le Grand Cerf. IX Moiselles IX s. Denis 1 Paris. 32X posts. ROUTE FROM OSTEND TO PARIS, THROUGH LILLE. 2X Tourout 1 Rousselart 2 Menin 2 Lille— The inhabitantsof this city amount to, 65,000. f The Citadel is one of the strongest in Europe. The prin- cipal Gate, the Theatre, and the Exchange, merit observation. L‘H6- tel de Gand, near the Diligence Of- fice, is a good inn ; so likewise is L’Hotel de Bourbon. An extra quarter of a post is paid on quitting Lille. IX Pont-a-Marcq 2X Douay— This town contains a fine Arse- nal, a Cannon Foundry, and an Artillery School. The Church, the Hotel de Ville, the Grande Place, and the Ramparts, deserve notice. L’Hotel de Versailles is one of tire best inns. An extra quarter of a post is paid on quitting Douay. 1% Bac-Aubencheul „ix Cambray—ancientij Camaracum. The Citadel , though old, is a fine one. The Hotel de Ville and the Epis- copal Palace merit attention ; as does the pyramidical Belfry of the large Church. IX Bonavy IX Fins 2 Peronne — This town is seated on the Somme. The best inn here is The Hotel S. Martin. IX Marche-le-Pot 1 Fonches 1 Roye IX Con ch y -les-Po ts 1 Cuvilly 1 Gournay-sur-Aronde IX Bois-de-Lihus IX Pont S. Maxence lx Senlis 1 La Chapelle-cn-Scrval IX Louvres IX Bourget IX Parui. 36 X posts. cing and every kind of fancy work, for thirty- five louis-d’or per annum, hoard, washing and all expenses inclusive. They likewise pay great attention to the health of their Pupils, and are celebrated for the cleanli- ness of their Seminary. FRANCE-ROUTES. 336 ROUTE FROM DIEPPE TO PARIS, THROUGH ROUEN. Dieppe is a handsome town, sup- posed to contain 20,000 inhabi- tants. The large Church of S. Jacques merits notice ; as does the view from the Cliffs. The best inns are, The Hotel de Pans , The Hotel Delarue , and The Hotel d' An gleterre. Themaster of the last-named excellent inn is an Englishman, by name, Taylor.* 2 Omonville— An extra quarter of a post is paid on quitting Dieppe. \\ Totes— The inn here is tolerably good. I 1 / Cambres 2* Rouen— This city, anciently called Ro- tomagus, is supposed to contain 73,000 inhabitants. The Great Hall of the Palace — the old Castle — the large Church — the ci-devant Renedictine Church of S. Ouen , and its Belfry— and the Church be- longing to I’HSpital Madelaine, merit notice. The road between Paris and Rouen presents rich and beautiful scenery. An extra half post is paid on quitting Rouen. 1J4 Forge-Ferette 1 Bourg-Baudouin 1 1 Ecoiiis 2 Tilliers 2 Magny V/t Bordeau-de-Vigny 2 Pontoise — The Church of S. Martin is celebrated for its architecture ; and the Church of S. Mallon contains a famous Descent from the Cross. \\ Franconville \\ S. Denis 1 Paris. 22% posts. ROUTE FROM HAVRE-DE-GRACE TO PARIS, THROUGH ROUEN AND S. GERM AIN-EN-L AYE. Havre, situated at the mouth of the Seine, is a flourishing com- mercial city, which contains 49,600 inhabitants, and possesses the advantage of a Port accessible during almost every wind : its Floodgates and Basins , made by Napoleon, merit notice. The larg- * Persons who go from Dieppe to Paris, and are not anxious to see Rouen, may pur- sue a shorter route, — namely, through Bois- Robert, Fommerevel, Forges, Gournay, [CH. II. est inn at Havre is The Hotel de S. Francois ; but The Hoteld Angle- terre is the cheapest and most com- fortable. The usual charge for sup- per and beds at the latter is four francs a head ; and for dinner, at the table d' hote } from two to three francs. 2 La Botte — An extra half post is paid on Aliquerviile 1% Yvetot 2\ Barentin 2 Rouen 1 % Port S. Ouen 2 Louviers i'/, Gaillon \\ Vernon i% Bonnieres 1% Mantes 2 Meulan 1 Triel \j S. Germain-en-Laye I’i Nan terre 1% Paris. 21% posts. Paris ( as I have already men- tioned), is said to contain more than three hundred Hotels, many of which ar splendidly furnished : some of them, however, may be with more propriety denominated ready-furnished lodging-houses, than Hotels ; as they neither pro- vide eatables nor waiters ; though the English custom of doing both has lately gained ground. Hotels provide fire-wood ; which is an expensive article, and can only be purchased reasonably at the wood-yards, where it usually costs from thirty to forty francs a load. The Rue de la Paix, the Place Vendome , the Rue de Rivoli , and the Rue de Richelieu , contain the best Hotels; among which are The Hotel de Londres, Place Fen- dome , The Hotel Meurice , Rue S. Honore , The Hotel d' Hol- lander Rue de la Paix , and The Gisors, Chars, Pontoise, and Francon- ville. Packets from Dieppe to Brighton sail every evening from the fifteenth of April till the fifteenth of October. APPENDIX. PARIS. CH. II.] 337 Hotel de JVagram, Rue de la Paix : but accommodations for a moderate -sized family, in this quarter, usually cost five hundred francs a month ; whereas the same accommodations, in the Faubourg S. Germain , may be obtained for two-thirds of that sum ; and near the Messageries Roy ales for slill less. * Ready-furnished apartments may likewise be hired in private houses ; and several respectable Parisians take Boarders : but Fa- milies who design to remain some time at Paris, and wish to live with economy there, should rent an unfurnished apartment in the Faubourg S. Jacques, hiring fur- niture of an upholsterer. Persons who travel in a Diligence, may usually procure apartments at the Hotel attached to the Diligence- Office, or some other in the vi- cinity. Eatables and wine are good at Paris ; and Restaurateurs will send plentiful dinners to large fa- milies at four or five francs per head, bread, fruit, and wine, not included : but single men are bet- ter served by taking their meals at the house of a Restaurateur ; which is a sort of tavern, where Ladies likewise may dine without the smallest impropriety. Ladies are also in the habit, after dinner, of frequenting the Cafes ; where tea, coffee, chocolate, capillaire, etc. are served in the morning ; and coffee, liqueurs, beer, lemon- ade, and ices, in the evening. There also are Cafes for what is called a dejeuner d lafourchette ; * The Proprietors of great Hotels do not, in general, like to receive Travellers by the day ; but at The Hotel de Bruxelles , Rue de Richelieu, The Hotel d’Angleterre, Rue Filles S. Thomas, and The Hotel de Moniau- bnn, Rue Git-le-Coeur, this is not the case. The master of the first-named house keeps a good Table d'llbte , at which Ladies may dine without any impropriety : and al all of these Hotels families may he supplied with which consists of sausages, meat, eggs, etc., and excellent wines; and as the Parisians seldom dine before five or six o’clock, they frequently take these meat break- fasts. Very, in the Palais-Royal, Galerie de pierre , is a celebrated Restaurateur ; but persons who dine at his house should take care to order only such a numberof por- tions of each dish as they are likely to eat ; every portion being charged separately. The carte a manger is given into your hands the mo- ment you enterthese taverns, with the price per portion of every dish, and a list of the wines and their prices. f Grignon, Passage Vivi- enne, is an excellent Restaurateur. The Cafe des Mille Colonnes and the Cafe de Foy , Palais - Royal , and Tortoni , on the Boulevard des Italiens , are cele- brated for the excellence of their ices, etc. The Cafe Anglais and Cafe-Hardy , on the Boulevard des Italiens, are likewise celebrat- ed for excellent ices, and meat breakfasts. A good Valet-de-Place, who speaks English, may be hired for five francs a day, he finding him- self in every thing. A Job - Coach, coachman’s wagesinclusive, usually costs from eighteen to twenty francs per day ; and from four hundred and fifty to five hundred francs per month : but, if these carriages be taken a few miles into the country, the coachman expects five francs for himself. Hackney-Coaches, Chariots, and, excellent dinners in their own apartments for four francs a head, with breakfast for two francs a head; with wood, per day, for two francs ; and with a saloon, bed-room, and servants’ rooms, for about twenty francs a night For servants’ eating, the usual charge, is live francs and a half per day. + The price of ready-furnished apartments, and likewise of provisions, at Paris, are high, owing to the great inllux of Brit sh Travellers. 2 G 338 APPENDIX. Cabriolets, are paid for either by the course or by time. For a coach, or Fiacre , the price is thirty sous per course ; the driver having a right to demand a fare whenever ordered to stop ; but if he be not ordered to stop, he must drive from one extremity of Paris to the other for the above-mention- ed price. The fare by time is two francs for the first hour, thirty sous for every subsequent hour, and fifteen for every half-hour, unless it be from midnight till four in the morning, when the price is doubled : and if the clock strike twelve immediately before the dis- missal of a hackney-coach, the coachman has a right to demand ten sous extra. Hackney-Coach- men expect drink-money; though they cannot demand it. The price in public Carriages which go to Versailles, S. Cloud, S. Denis, and other environs of Paris, is from twenty to forty sous each Passenger. The public carriages which go to Versailles, S. Germain, S. Cloud, and all the w estern environs of Pans, are sta- tioned near the Pont Louis XVI. Regular stages start from Rue Rivoli and Rue de Chartres ; and those which go to S. Denis, and the other northern environs, in the Rue d'Enghien , near the Gate of S. Denis. Public Boats go almost every day to Meudon, S. Cloud, etc. The average price qf prime joints of butchers’ meat is from ten to * The French pound, called popds de table , is al>out fourteen ounces and a half; and the kilogram about thirty-five ounces. f A melancholy proof of this occurred not long since at Pisa.' Two Ladies were living together in that city, when one of them com- plaining of cramp in her sjtomach, the other gave her a wine-glass of Ratafia, which hap- pened to he in the house. Shortly after hav- ing swallowed it she died, so evidently in [CH. II. fourteen sous the pound * — of fowls, from thirty-five sous to six francs each — of the best bread, from three to six sous the pound — and of common table wine, from fifteen to twenty-five sous the bottle. A breakfast d la fiourchette, usually costs one franc per head ; unless tea be required, when the price is three francs ; but, in these prices, wine is not included. A dinner at a Restaurateur s may usually be procured for two francs a head, or even less, exclu- sive of wine. Corcelet, Marchand de Comes <• tibles, au Gourmand, Palais - Royal , sells ortolans, game, poul- try, Hamburgh-beef, Bayonne- hams, Bologna sausages, Perigord, and other celebrated meat-pies, grocery, Italian, Swiss, and Eng- lish cheeses, English ale, porter, mustard, tea, Cayenne - pepper, curry-powder, and fish-sauces ; wines, liqueurs, with almost every other article of luxury for a table. He likewise sells ratafias ; but liquors of this kind, whether in France op Italy, are extremely de- leterious. f Meunier, Rue de S. Peres , No. 22 — and Duclos, Faubourg S. Honore , No. 76, sells good Bordeaux, Champagne, ^nd other wines. Good chocolate is to be found at No. 91, Rue Neuve des Petits Champs. Berthellemot, in the Palais consequence of poison, that strong suspicions fell upon her friend; who, to prove her in- nocence, look the same quantity of Ratafia herself which she had administered to the deceased, and expired within a lew hours. Impelled by this circumstance. Professor Santi of Pisa wrote a beautiful little work, to show that Ratafia has of late years been made with Italian laurel-leaves; the extract from which is a deadly poison. PARIS. 339 ii. ii.] loyal , is a good Confectioner. Ashley, Rue Vivienne, No. 16, The best shops for Lyon silks, is one of the best Boot and Shoe- mbroidery, etc.* are JNourtier’s, makers in Paris. ■ u Page , Rue Vivienne — Gail- Morton, Rue Duphot, No. lo, ird, Rue de la Paix, No. 6 — is a good Coach-maker, and re- .etoumeur, Rue S. Honore , No. pairs carriages remarkably well. 47 — and au Pauvre Diable, The highest price usually given lue Montesquieu. French figured to music and dancing-masters, is ilks and satins are from ten to six francs a lesson, ourteen francs the aune , which Galignani, Librarian, Rue Vi- 5 an English ell ; Levantines, vienne, No. 18, sells books in all fom six to ten francs; and Flo- languages, and publishes two Eng- ence-silks, from four to seven lish newspapers, one every morn- rancs. ing, Sundays excepted; the price One of the best shops for lace per month, being nine francs and s Le Sueur’s, Rue de Grammont. a half — per quarter, twenty-five A celebrated shop for embroi- francs — per half year, forty-six lery is that of Mademoiselle le francs —and per year, eighty-eight Boeuf , a la Balayeuse, Rue Neuve francs. For one extra franc per des Petits Champs ; and in the quarter the paper is franked same street is a celebrated shop throughout Italy, Switzerland, for corsets, kept by Mademoiselle and Germany : — and a Sunday Picard, at No. 52. Paper ; the price of which is five Mademoiselle Leroy, Rue S. francs per month, or fourteen Honore , No. 345 — and Madame francs per quarter. Subscriptions d’Herbault, Rue Neuve S. Augus- are received by every Bookseller tin , are celebrated milliners. and Director of the Post-Offices Froge, Boulevard des Italiens , throughout France, Italy, Switzer- No. 15, is an excellent Tailor. land, and Germany; they must, MM. Prarond, Rue de la Baril- however, be paid in advance. lerie , No. 1, sell good silk stock- M. Narjot, Rue S. Anne , No. iugs. 77, is a Notary-public, who trans- Melinotte, in the Rue de la acts business for the British na- Paix , is an excellent Ladies’ Shoe- tion. maker ; and charges, whether for Persons who require medical silk or leather shoes, six francs the aid would find skilful Practition- pair ; for thin boots, from twelve ers in Dr. Bury, Rue de la Paix, to fifteen francs; and for thick No. 12 bis — Dr. Macloughlin, boots lined with fur, twenty-four Rue de la Paix, No. 8 — and Dr, francs : Ladies’ shoes and boots Lefevre, Grande Rue Verte , No. ready-made, may, in other shops, 42. be purchased cheaper ; and excel- Renard, Rue Vivienne, No. 19, lent men’s shoes and boots, toge- Apothecary and Chemist, sells ther with Ladies’ shoes, called English medicines, and prepares Piquees (and calculated to resist prescriptions in the English man- the chill of brick floors), may ner, likewise be met with at Paris.* Darrac, Rue Neuve S. Eus - | • These Piquees are made sufficiently large calico wadding, or colton, quilted into thin to be worn over other shoes, and lined with w hite satin. 340 APPENDIX. [ch. ti. tache, No, 7 — and Vibert, Rue Richelieu , No. 86, are good Up- holsterers. The charges at the French Opera, or Academie Roy ale de Musique, are as follows : — Bal- cony, each person, ten francs— First row of boxes, second row (front), Amphitheatre and Or- chestra, seven francs and a half — Second row of boxes (sides), and third row (front), six francs — Third row of boxes (sides), four francs — Fourth and fifth rows of boxes, and Pit, three francs and a half. 1 ' The charges at the Italian Opera are:— First row of boxes and balcony, and second row of boxes (front), ten francs — Se- cond boxes (sides), orchestra, and ground -floor boxes, seven francs and a half — Third boxes (front), six francs — Third boxes (sides), five francs — Fourth boxes, and gallery of third boxes, four francs — Pit, three francs and twelve sous. 4 - Prices at the Comic Opera : — First row of boxes, balcony, ground-floor boxes, and orches- tra, six francs and twelve sous — First gallery and second boxes, four francs and a half — Third boxes, three francs and twelve sous — Second gallery and fourth boxes, two francs and fifteen sous — Pit, two francs and four sous. Prices at the Theatre Fran- cais : — First boxes, second boxes (front), orchestra, and balcony, six francs and twelve sous — Se- cond boxes (sides), and first gal- lery, five francs — Third boxes, three francs and six sous — Pit, two francs and four sous. Prices at the Odeon, or Second * Operas are represented here only three times a week; namely, on Sundays, Wednes- day, and Fridays. Theatre Francais .’—Stage boxes, balcony, and orchestra, five francs — First boxes, and inferior places in the orchestra, three francs and a half — First gallery and second boxes, two francs and a half — Third and fourth boxes, second allery, and pit, one franc and a alf. The Minor theatres in Paris are — Theatr*s des Yarietes, du Yaudeville, de Madame, de la Porte S. Martin, de l’Ambigu Co- rn ique, de la Gaite, and the Cirque Olympique. The Messageries Rojales , or Diligence- Office, is in the Rue Notre Dame des Vic to ires, No. 22 : and from this office Dili- gences go periodically to every town in France situated on the great roads. An excellent Coach for Bou- logne and Calais starts daily from Rue de la Jussienne , No. 16. Return Carriages for all parts of the Continent are always to be had at Meurice’s Hotel, Rue S. Honore. The Offices of the Coche d eau de Haute Seine are situated on the Quai Dauphin , lie S. Louis , No. 6 — Port S. Paul , No. 8. Yoituriers, returning from Pa- ris to Switzerland and Italy, may frequently be met with at the Ho- tel de Toulouse, Rue Git le Cceur, No. 6, near the Pont S. Michel ; and at the Hotel Montauban, in the same street ; and persons go- ing to Switzerland, or Italy, would of course be able to make a better bargain with these men than with a French Yoiturin. The Yoitu- riers belonging to Dejean, and those belonging to Emery, may be heard of at the Hotel de Tou- f Operas are performed here on Mondays, Tuesdays, Thursdays, and Saturdays. PARIS. CH. II.] louse ; and their prices usually are as follow : — For each passen- ger from London to Geneva, din- ner, supper, and beds inclusive, twenty Louis-d’or — From Lon- don to Florence, thirty-six Louis- d’or — From Paris to Florence, twenty-six Louis-d’or — and from Paris {o Milan, twenty-two Louis- d’or. The expense of breakfasts, and the gratuities to the servants at inns, are paid by the passen- gers. Each Passenger is allowed a cwt. of luggage. GENERAL POST-OFFICE. The office where letters are franked is opened at nine in the morning. Letters for foreign Countries must be franked before two o’clock, and letters for France put into the post before five. The Poste Restante is open from eight in the morning till seven in the evening. Letters from Great Britain ar- rive late on Mondays, Thursdays, Fridays, and Sundays. Letters for Great Britain go on Mondays, Tuesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, and must be franked to Dover. Letters for the hereditary domi- nions of the Emperor of Austria, and likewise for Austrian Italy, go every day, and must be franked. Letters for Spain and Portugal go on Wednesdays and Sundays, and must be franked. Letters for Switzerland go every day via Basle— on Mondays, Wed- nesdays, and Fridays, via Poren- tray — and on Tuesdays, Thurs- days, Saturdays, and Sundays, to Geneva, Lausanne, the Valais, etc. and must be franked. Letters go daily, without being ranked , to the Netherlands, Prus- 341 sia, all the German States not be^ longing to the Emperor of Austria, Denmark, Sweden, Russia, and Poland- — on Mondays, Wednes- days, Fridays, and Sundays, to the Kingdom of Sardinia — and on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Saturdays, to Nice. Letters for Parma and Piacenza go on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fri- days, and Sundays, and must be franked — and letters for South- ern Italy go on the same days, without beingfranked. Letters and parcels of particu- lar consequence are ensured, on the payment of double postage. Money likewise may be conveyed with safety per post, on the pay- ment of five per cent. All letters delivered from the General Post-Office at Paris are charged according to their weight; and a single letter from Great Britain usually costs about twen- ty-six sous'. Besides the General Post-Office there are other offices where let- ters are received for Paris, the Departments, and foreign Coun- tries. These are situated as fol- lows : — Rue Lenoir , S. Honors — Rue des Tournelles, No. 10 — Rue Grand Chantier, No. 7 — Rue Bergere — Rue D up hot. No. 24 — Rue Verneuil, No. 20 — Rue Con- de , No. 8 — Rue des Fosses S. Victor , No. 35 — Rue Coq Heron, No. 14. The Petite Poste Offices, where letters are taken in for the Capi- tal and its environs exclusively, are very numerous. The postage, per letter, is three sous in Paris, and four sous in the environs : and the letters are taken out of the bags, aud distributed every two hours. 2g 2 342 APPENDIX ROUTE FROM PARIS TO GENEVA THROUGH FONTAINEBLEAU AND DIJON. 1 Villejuif \\ Fromenteau 1% Essonne Ponthiery 1 Chailly 1ft Fontainebleau lft Morel 1ft Fossard 1 Villeneuve-la-Guyard 1ft Pont-sur-Yonne Sens— A third horse, for the six winter months, both going and returning. 1% Villeneuve-sur-Yonne 1 Villevallier 1 Joigny 1 ft Bassou 2 Auxerre — A third horse, for the six winter months, both going and re- turning. An extra quarter of a post is paid on quitting Auxerre. 1 S. Bris — A third horse, for the six winter months, hoth going and returning. 2 Vermanlon 2ft Lucy-le-Bois — A third horse, for the six winter months, both going and re- turning. 1 Avallon 2 Rouvray — A third horse all the year from Avallon to Rouvray; and vice versa , during the six winter months. 2 Maison-neuve — A third horse all the year from Maison-neuve to Rouvray : hut not from Rouvray to Maison-neuve. 2 Vitteaux 1% La Chaleur — A third horse all the year from Vitteaux hither, hut not re- turning. 1 ft Pont-de-Pany-— A third horse all the year from this place to La Chaleur, but not returning. 2% Dijon — An extra quarter of a post is paid on quilting this city. 2 Genlis 1$ Auxonne — A third horse, for the six winter months, hoth going and re- turning. 2 Dole 2ft Mont-sous-Vaudrey — A third horse throughout the year, hoth going and returning. 2ft Poligny 1ft Montrond — A third horse throughout the year going, but not returning. 1% Cbampagnole lft Maison-neuve (Jura)— A third horse all the year, both going and returning. 1% S. Laurent (Jura) — A third horse all the year, both going and returning : a fourth horse going, but not returning. 1% Morez— A third horse all the year, both going and returning. lft Le§ Rousses— A third and fourth horse all the year going, but not returning. 1 $ La Vattay. [CH. II. 2 Gex — This is the last French post. A third and fourth horse all the year from Gex to La Vattay; but not re- turning. 2 Geneve — A third horse throughout the year from Geneva to Gex ; but not 64$ returning. The price of post-horses between Ge- neva and Gex is the same as in France.* The road through Dijon and Poligny to Geneva having been already described, I shall add no- thing further on the subject ex- cept this, that Travellers ought not to attempt passing the Jura during winter, nor very early in the spring, lest their progress should be impeded by snow. ROUTE FROM LYONS TO GENEVA, BY CERDON AND S. GERMAIN- DE-JOUX. lft Mirabel 1 Montluel 1$ Meximieux 1 ft S. Denis— Best inn, Le Lion d’Or. I S. Jean-le-Vieux 1% Cerdon lft S. Martin-du-Fresne 1 Nantua lft S. Germain-de-Joux 1 Chatillon lft Avanchy 1 ft Coulonges 2 S. Genix 1 Geneve. 19$ posts. ROUTE FROM PARIS, THROUGH LYONS, TO CHAMBERY. 29$ Rouvray— See the route from Paris to Geneva, through Dijon 1 Roche-en-Berny lj; Saulieu— A third horse for the six winter months, both going and returning. \\ Pierre-Ecrite— A third horse all the year, both going and returning. IX Chissey— A third horse all the year from Chissey to Pierre-Ecrite; but not returning. 2ft Autun — This town contains about 9,000 inhabitants ; and is adorned with two gates, The Porte d’Arroux and The Porte S. Andre, both of which merit notice. Autun was an- ciently called Auguslodunum. Here See, under Appendix, Switzerland, the continuation of this route, from Geneva by the Simplon, to Milan. ch. n.l FRANCE— CHAMBERY, etc. 343 are several inns ; but L'Hotel de la Poste is that most frequented. 2 S. Emilan — A third horse all the year from Autun to S. Emilan : and vice versa for the six winter months. A high and steep hill. Country beautiful. lft S. Leger — A third horse all the year from S. Leger to S. Emilan ; but not returning. 1 Bourgneuf— A third horse all the year, both going and returning, lft Chalons-sur-Sabne —called, by Cffisar, Cabillonum. This city, situated at the mouth of the Central Canal, which unites the Saone and the Loire, contains 12,000 inhabitants, and was considerably embellished by Napoleon : its Quay is handsome; and Les \Trois Faisans is a very good hotel. The Hotel du Parc and The Hotel de l' Europe are likewise good inns. A Coche-d’eau sets out daily from Chalons for Lyons. 2 Senccey lft Tournus — A third horse, both going and returning, for the six winter months. Inn, Le Sauvage, and good. 2 S. Albin 2 Macon—' This city, anciently called Ma- tisco, contains 11,000 inhabitants; and is adorned with a fine Bridge, and a beautiful Quay, from which the Alps are discoverable. The wine of Macon is particularly celebrated ; and V Hotel de V Europe is an ex- cellent inn. 2 Maison-Blanche 1% S. Georges-de-Rognains S. Georges-a-Anse lft Limonest — A third and fourth horse all the year going, but not returning, lft Lyon— A third and fourth horse all the year from Lyons to Limonest; but not from Limonest to Lyons. This city, anciently called Lugdunum , said to contain 100,000 inhabitants, and, in point of riches, the second city of France, is watered by the rivers Rhone and Saone (anciently the Rhodanus and Arar), and sur- rounded by a beautiful country. Lyons was considerably embellished by Napoleon, to whom it owes its t fine iron bridge. The Museum contains celebrated Drawings by Poussin ( the subject of which is the Seven Sacraments) ; together * This is a cheap place for permanent residence : but persons who wish to live economically, either here or in any other provincial town of France, should lodge and board in a private house with a respectable French family. Board and lodging for one person seldom costs more than thirty pounds sterling per annum. House-rent in these towns is cheap ; as a comfortable family- residence may sometimes be procured for twenty-five or thirty pounds per annum. Mutton and beef are cheap; the former being from three to five pence English, the pound; the latter somewhat less. Bread is cheap. Fowls and ducks are about two shillings with several Paintings, among which are the Last Supper, by Philippe de Champaigne — an Allegory, by Ru- bens—a fine Teniers— a Wild Boar Hunt, by Sneyders— and the Resur- rection, hy Le Brun. Here likewise are several antiquities ; namely, three fine Mosaic Pavements (one repre- sents Chariot-races in a Circus) — the Table on which is engraved the speech made by the Emperor Clau- dius Caesar in favour of Lyons— the Fragment of a Horse’s Leg — Sacrifi- cial Vases, etc., which seem to have belonged to a temple of Isis— ancient Lamps— Lares— and ancient Armour, — all found near the city. The Hotel de Ville, the Public Library, and the Shops, merit notice ; the Theatre is spacious and handsome, and the Quay of the Rhone magnificent. The best inns at Lyons are L’ Hotel de F Europe, L’ Hotel de Provence , and L' Hotel du Parc.* A Diligence goes daily in four days and a half during summer, and in four days during winter, from this city to Turin. A Diligence goes daily to Marseilles; and a Coclie-d’eau three times a week to Avignon. The road from Ronvray to Lyons is, generally speaking, good. An extra half post is paid bn entering, and a post on quilting Lyons. lft Bron— A third horse all the year going, but not returning. 1 S. Laurent-des-Mures lft La Verpilliere— This village contains a tolerable inn. lft Bourgoin— A fine road from Bron hither. 2 La Tour-du-Pin— This town is seated on the Bourbre 1 Gaz— Immediately beyond La Tour-du- Pin, on the right, lies the route to Grenoble. lft Ponl-de-Beauvoisin— Frontier of France. f At Guingette, between Gaz and Pont- de-Beauvoisin, the Rhone, the moun- tains of Bugey, La Chartreuse, and Savoy, are all discoverable. Pont- de-Beauvoisin is situated on the Guidres. 2 Echelles— A third horse all the year, both going and returning. The Guieres, a torrent over which a fine bridge has been thrown, forms the boun- dary between France and Savoy ; English the couple, and turkeys from two to three shillings each: game also is cheap and plentiful. f Here Travellers have to encounter a French Frontier Custom-house on one side of the Bridge, and a Savoyard Frontier Cus- tom-house on the other : the latter, however, is not much to be dreaded; but the Inn, under the same roof with the French Custom-house, is a dangerous sleeping-place, the bed-rooms being so situated that all the beds are damp. There is a better Inn near the French Cus- tom-house; and at Echelles, only two posts distant, the Post-house atlords good accom- modations. 344 APPENDIX. [CH. B. and about six miles from this bridge is the once terrific passage of La Chaille : but the present road being bordered with a dwarf wall, every appearance of danger has vanished. Echelles is seated on the Guieres, whose waters are here seen issuing impe- tuously from the mountains of La Chartreuse : and about five hundred paces beyond Echelles commences the celebrated Chemin de la Grotle, made by Charles Emmanuel, second Duke of Savoy ; and so wonderfully improved by the Emperor Napoleon, as to be at this moment one of the safest and most magnificent roads in Europe. i% S. Thibault-de-Coux— A third and fourth horse all the year, both going and returning. Between the Chemin de la Grotte and S. Thibault-de-Coux the road tra- verses a lofty mountain ; and near S. Thibault-de-Coux, at a short dis- tance from the road, is a fine cascade, formed by a stream of limpid water, which falls perpendicularly from the height of a hundred and twenty feet. Chamber y — A third horse all the year, ■ hoth going and returning.* 74 posts. C hamberv , tbe capital of Savoy, is pleasantly situated in a fertile valley watered by the rivulets Al- bano and Leisse; and contains about 10,000 inhabitants. The Academy des Beaux Arts , and the Promenade , merit notice ; and the heights which surround this little city are covered with vine- yards, pasturages, and forests of lirs. Inn, La Poste , and very com- fortable. ROUTE PROM PARIS TO LYONS, THROUGH NEVERS AND MOULINS. 8& Fontainebleau-~See the route from Paris to Geneva, through Dijon. An extra quarter of a post is paid on quilting Fontainebleau every way, the Moret road excepted. 2 Nemours — This little town is well-placed, well-built, and watered by the river Loing, and the Canal of Briare. The new bridge is handsome, and the inns are tolerably good. 1 X La Croisiere 1 Fontenay 1 Puis-la-Lande * See, under Appendix, Itaey, the conti- nuation of this Route, from Chambery, by the Mont Genis, to Turin. 1 Montargis \\ La Commodite 1 Nogent-sur-Vernisson 1% Bussiere 1 X Briare — This town has given its name to tbe Canal which forms a commu- nication between the rivers Seine and Loire; the latter of which is seen, covered with vessels, from the bill above Briare. 2 Neuvy-sur -Loire 1% Cosne Pouilly IX La Charite — pleasantly situated on the Loire. IX Pougues— Here are mineral waters. l'£ Nevers — This city (anciently Niver— num) is seated at the confluence of the Nievre and the Loire, over the lalter of which rivers there is a fine bridge. The Palace of the Dukes of Never s is deemed a beautiful spe- cimen of Gothic architecture. The choir of the great Church merits no- tice. Principal inns, L’Hotel Royal, and L' Hotel du. Lion d’Or. 1% Magny IX is Pierre-le-Moutier 1& S. Imbert IX Villeneuve IX Moulins — This town, situated on the Allier, is embellished by a magnifi- cent Bridge; and contains the Mau- soleum of Montmorency , who was beheaded under Louis XIII. ft is deemed a fine piece of sculpture, and stands in the College Royal. In the environs of Bressol, a Village near Moulins, there is a considerable quan- tity of petrified wood. 2 Bessay. 2 Vai’ennes — About noon the famous moun- talns,called Puis de Dome and Mont d’Or , are discoverable from this town. 1 X S. Gerand — The inn here is a good one. 1J£ La Palisse 1 \ Droiturier 1 S. Martin — A very high situation. The road near this town exhibits fine landscapes. 1 LaPacaudiere IX S. Germain-l’Epinasse lx Roanne— Hence to Lyons the road is very hilly. At Roanne the Loire becomes navigable. Best inns, lJ Ho- tel de Flandres, and L' Hotel du Renard. 1 L’Hopital 1 S. Sympborieu IX Pain-Bouchain IX Tarare — Peasants usually keep oxen at the foot of tbe mountain of Tarare, to aid carriages in ascending. Fine views of the Alps between Tarare and Lyons, lg Arnas 2 Salvigny \% Lyon . t 6IX posts. f From La Palisse to S. Gerand a third horse all tbe year going, but not returning. — From La Palisse to Droiturier a third horse FRANCE— A YIGNON, AIX, NICE, etc. 345 ROUTE FROM LYONS, THROUGH AVIGNON AND AIX, TO NICE. 1 S. Fons 1 S. Symphorien d’Ozon ■— A third and fourth horse all the year, both going and returning. Vienne — A third and fourth horse all the year, both going and returning. An extra quarter of a post is paid on entering and on quilting Vienne. This city contains several antiqui- ties; among which are an Amphi- theatre, almost entire ; the ruins of a triumphal Arch, erected in ho- nour of Augustus ; and a Temple , adorned with columns thirty feet in height.* The wine called Cole-rolie is made near Vienne. 2 Auherive— A third horse all the year, both going and returning. 1 Peage de Roussillon — A third horse for the six winter months, both going and returning. 1 S. Rambert l£ S. Vallier— This town, seated at the con- fluence of the Galaure and the Rhone, contains a good inn. 1 % Tain— celebrated for red and white wine, called Hermitage. 2% Valence — A third horse for the six winter months, both going and. re- turning. Valence, called Valentin by the Ro- mans, contains a University, and an edifice, now made into a Church, •which is supposed to have been ori- ginally built by the Romans. Pius VI. died here. Best inn, The Post- house. La Paillasse \\ Loriol Vjh Derbieres 1£ Rlontelimart — The Post-house here is one of the best provincial inns on the Continent. 2 Donzere — A third horse all the year, both going and returning. This town con- tains a good inn; and the wines of the neighbourhood are excellent. 2 La Palud— A third horse throughout the year from La Palud to Donzere. 1 X Mornas — A third horse throughout the year, both going and returning. \\ Orange — remarkable for a triumphal Arch, erected in honour of Marius and Catullus, and almost entire. 2 Sorgues — A third horse throughout the year, both going and returning. l'& Avignon— This city, seated on the left bank of the Rhone, and built in the all the year going, but not returning.— From Droilurier to S. Martin a third horse all the year, both going and returning. — From Pa- caudiere to S. Martin a third horse all the year going, but not returning. — From Pa- caudiere to S. Germain a third horse all the year, both going and returning. — FromRoanne to S. Symphoricn a third horse all the year, both going and returning. — From S. Sympho- rien to Puin-Bouchain a third horse all the Italian style, was anciently called Avenio : it contains 23,000 inhabit- ants, and a considerable number of handsome edifices, the most striking of which is the Cathedral. The ci- devant Church of the Cordeliers contains the Tomb of Laura. The Hotel d’ Europe is one of the best inns France can boast ; and The Ho- tel de Petrarque et Laura , between Avignon and Vaucluse, is celebrated by Travellers for its dinners, con- sisting of excellent trout and other fish. The Fountain of Vaucluse is within a few miles of Avignon. 2\ S. Andijl— Between this place and Avi- gnon a fine wooden bridge has been lately thrown over the Durance, anciently Druentia; a rapid river, which Travellers were formerly com- pelled to cross in a ferry, sometimes at the risk of their lives. Orgon— The inn here is good. 2 Pont-Royal— ' The country from S. Andiol hither is, generally speaking, flat and uninteresting. 2 S. Canal 2 Aix— A third horse throughout the year, both going and returning. The two last stages are hilly. Aix, anciently called Aquce-Sextia, and the capital of Provence, stands in a spacious plain, watered by the Arc, is handsomely built in the Ita- lian style, and contains 23,700 inha- bitants. The Mineral Waters and Hot Baths here have long been cele- brated. The Cathedral merits no- tice ; as that part called La Rotondo is adorned with columns which once belonged to a temple of Vesta ; and the College Chapel is embellished with an Annunciation and a Visita- tion, by Puget. This is a cheap town for permanent residence : its best inns are, L' Hotel du Cours, L'Hotel des Princes, and La Mule Blanche. An extra half post is paid on quitting Aix. 1$ Bannettes 1J£ La Grande Pugere 2$ Tourves— A third horse all the year, both going and returning. Between La Grande Pugere and Tourves there is a steep hill ; and the whole road from Aix to the last-named Post is at times rough and rotten. 1% Brignolles— This town is pleasantly si- tuated between the rivers Carancin and Issole. A third horse, during year going, but not reluming. — From Tarare to Pam-Bouchain a third horse all the year going, but not returning. —From Ainas to Salvigny a third horse all the year, both going and returning. * Pontius Pilate, after having been deprived of the ollice of Procurator of Judea, on aecouut of his malpvactices, and banished to Vieuue, died there, by his own hands. 346 APPENDIX. the six winter months, both to go and return. Flassans — A third horse all the year, both going and returning. 1 Luc — A third horse all the year, both going and returning. The road from Brignolles hither is good. The coun- try abounds with olives, vineyards, and corn. Vidauban 4$ Muy— A third horse all the year, both going and returning. 2 Frejus— A third horse all the year, both going and returning. Frejus, called by the Romans Forum Julii, still exhibits vestiges of its ancient splendour; namely, one Arch of the Port made by Caesar, and the Ruins of an Aqueduct, etc. : but what must always render this town memorable is, that Napoleon landed b re, on his return from Egypt ; em- barked here, when banished to Elba; and landed again, not far hence, after quitting that island. The country round Frejus is magnifi- cently wooded. 2 Lestrelles — A third horse all the year, both going and returning. The moun- tains from which the last-mentioned Post derives its name may almost vie in height with the Alps; and are richly clothed with myrtles, arbuti, and a great variety of other flower- ing shrubs. These mountains exhibit beautiful scenery. 3 Cannes — A third horse all the year, both going and returning. This is the precise spot where Napoleon landed in 1815. 2 Antibes— A third horse all the year, both going and returning. Antibes, anciently called Antipolis, and celebrated for the elegance of its Port, which is adorned with circular ar- cades, somewhat in the style of the ancient Port of Ostia, likewise con- tains Ruins of an Amphitheatre. 4* A third horse all the year. 6ti| posts. The country between Antibes and Nice is an extensive plain near the Me- diterranean sea, embellished with hedges of pomegranates, myrtles, and aloes ; and watered by the Var, which divides France from the do- minions of the King of Sardinia. Travellers going to Nice were for- merly obliged to ford the Var,— an operation which was always unplea- sant, and often dangerous ; but a long wooden bridge is now thrown over that torrent. [cii. it. ROUTE FROM LYONS TO AVIGNON, BY WATER. f Families who wish to descend the Rhone from Lyons to Avignon, may either take the Coche d’eau to themselves for ten Louis d’or, or perhaps less, the expense of putting a carriage on board, and disembarking it at Avignon inclu- sive ; or they may, for the same price, hire a private boat. We pursued the latter plan ; and, quit- ting Lyons about noon, arrived be- fore six in the evening at Cordreuil , where we slept. The views on each side of the river, between Lyons and Cordreuil, are beautiful. The second day we left the last-named place about nine in the morning, and were presented with views even finer than on the preceding day. A magnificent chain of lofty rocks clothed with vineyards, and crowned with mins of ancient cas- tles, formed the great features of the landscape ; while, here and there, a small village, at the water's edge, and sometimes a large town in a valley between the hills, added to the richness of the scenery. Deserted Chateaux, and Convents, placed on the pinnacles of craggy rocks, presented themselves at every turn of the river ; while the rocks frequently appeared in such wild and extraordinary shapes, that one might easily have mis- taken them for castles with giants striding on their battlements. No words, however, can do justice to this scenery ; which is render- ed doubly beautiful by the im- mense breadth, peculiar clear- ness, and great rapidity of the * The distance, according to the French Post-book, is four posts from Antibes to Nice ; but the Italian Post-books call it only 2’^ posts. — See, under Appendix, Italy, the con- tinuation of this Route from Nice to Genoa, f The road from Lyons to Avignon and Marseilles being frequently in bad condition, it is advisable tor Travellers to go down tRe Rhone, if possible. CH . ii.] FRANCE— MONTPELLIER, TOULON, etc. 347 Rhone. About four o’clock we ar- » lived dXValence, which commands a distant view of the Alps, and stands directly opposite to a pictu- [resque rock, crowned by the re- imams of a castle. We slept at ! the Post-House, a tolerably good inn, though too far from the water, j The third day we quitted Valence at nine in the morning ; and found the rocks increase in magnitude, i and the prospect of the Alps grow more and more sublime as we I proceeded. Early in the after- noon we came in sight of the Pont S. Esprit ; and passed under the middle arch, without experienc- ing, in consequence, any dis- agreeable sensation. This cele- brated bridge, three thousand feet in length, is built with consuin- l mate skill and beautiful simpli- I city. The inn at S. Esprit is good. The fourth day we left this town at eight in the morning, and ar- rived at Avignon about twelve. There are two castles, opposite to each other, not far from the j Pont S. Esprit, which form a i picturesque view. On approach- ' ing Avignon we found the : country flat, and the prospects less pleasing than before. ROUTE FROM AVIGNON TO NISMES ANP MONTPELLIER. * 2£ La Begude-de-Saze — -A third horse all the year, both going and returning, t V/t LaFoux— A third horse ail the year, both going and returning. 1% S. Gervasy — A third horse all the year, both going and returning. Nismes — This city, anciently called Ne— mausus, and said to contain 40,000 inhabitants, is adorned with band- some modern buildings ; but more particularly worth seeing on account of its Amphitheatre, and several '* The vent de bise prevails so much in f all the southern part of France, as to render I ttie climate prejudicial to consumptive per- I I sons . and l>eside this objection to the above- other monuments of antiquity ; one of which, called La Maison Quar- ree, and supposed to have been a Corinthian Temple, erected by the people of Nismes about the year or Rome 754, in honour of Cams and Lucius, sons of Agrippa, is in high preservation. Here likewise are Re- mains of an ancient Pharos. Best inns, Le Louvre , and Le Luxem- bourg. The Fountain of Nismes has long been celebrated; and the Pont-de- Garde, a Roman Aqueduct (attri- buted to Agrippa), 174 Paris teet in height, and 728 in length, is nol quite four leagues distant from this city, and well worth notice. 1% Uchau— An extra quarter of a post is p.iid from Nismes hither. 1% Lmiei— celebrated, for its wines. i% Colombieres 1% Montpellier— This town, anciently called Agathopolis, and supposed to con- tain 8S,000 inhabitants, has long been famed for its climate ; which, though unfavourable to weak lungs, is in other respects salubrious. Rain seldom falls here: snow and fogo are equally uncommon ; but the marin , or sea-wind, produces damp : and the vent de bise, which con- tinually visits Montpellier, is of all winds the most piercing.* The prin- cipal hotels are Le Cheval Plane, L'Hotel du Midi, Le Petit Paris, and, Le Luxembourg : but persons who purpose to reside any length of time at Montpellier should hire a ready-furnished apartment, and have their dinner from a Trait ear. Here are a Theatre, an Aqueduct, and several pleasant promenades. Mont- pellier and Grasse are famous for the best perfumes in France. The Mason-Spider is an extraordinary insect, which naturalists report to be found only near Montpellier. 142 posts. ROUTE FROM PARIS, THROUGH RHEIMS AND SEDAN, TO LIEGE. 12% Soissons-~See the route from Paris through Brussels to Oslend. ’ 2\ Braine 12 Fismes 1& Jonchery 2 Reims— This town is said to have 30,000 inhabitants. The great Church is a fine Gothic structure, with a beau- , a \ front. The Church of S. Ni- cholas, the Place Royale, and some remains of Roman Antique At Oourtagnon and Men, in the neighbourhood of Ilheims, a large numlier of fbssils are continually discovered. An extra Rheims 2 P ° St * S paid ° n c l uiltin g 2 Isle CimS ' 22 Rethel 12 Vauxelles 12 Launoy 22 Mezieres—An extra quarter of a post is paid on quitting this town. A third borse all the year between Rethel and w Lau °°^ and Launoy and Mezieres. 2% Sedan- Here is a good Arsenal and a Gannon Foundery. The great Tu- renne was born at Sedan. Best inns, rI C aT iX d ° r> and Le Falais 3 Paliseux 21 Telin 2 Marche 2 Bouzin 2 Nandrin 2 Liege — tl ( undei \ Appendix, Ger- mnr) the route from Brussels, lo^pa* 1 Alx ‘ Ia_Cha P el le and Liege, IOUTE FROM PARIS TO STRAS- BURGH, THROUGH CHALONS-SUR- marne, s. dizier, bar-le-duc, NANCY, LUNEVlfLE, PHALZ- BOURG, AND SAVERNE. 12 Bondy— This town gives its name to the neighbouring forest. 1 Vert-Galand 1 Claye — Between Paris and Meaux is a plain, famed for the retreat of the Swiss, in 1567, under PfyfFer, who escorted Charles IX., Catherine de Medicis, and the ladies of her court in safety to Paris, by cutting his way through the army of their enemies. 2 Meaux— This town stands in a beauti- ful plain, walered by the Marne, and was the first place which deserted the party of the League, and sub- mitted to Henry IV. Over one of the gates are these words: Henri- cum prima agnovi. Good cheeses are made at Meaux. Best inns, La Sirene aDd La Croix d’Or. 1% S. Jean 1 La Ferte-sous-Jouarre—A small town embellished with pretty walks. 2 La Ferme-de-Paris 12 Chateau Thiery— The birth-place of La Fontaine. 1 Paroy 12 Dormans 1 Port-a-Binson 1 La Cave 1 Epernay— Famed for its wines. 2 Jaalons 1 Mastogne 1 Chalons— sur— Marne— — The HStel de VUle , the Great Church, and the Jard, are the objects best worth notice. Near this city Attila was defeated by the Franks and Romans. Best inns. La Pomine d’Or ; Le Palais Royal; La Croix d’Or; and La Ville de Nancy. An extra quarter of a post is paid on quilting this town. 1 Ch6pi 1 La Chauss6e 1 S. Arnand 1 Vitry-le-Franfais — Built by Francis I. 2 Lonchamp 12 S. Dizier — Here the Marne becomes na- vigable. 12 Saudrupt 12 Rar-le-Duc — Famous for sweetmeats, trout, and excellent wine. 2 Ligny 1 S. Aubin 1 % Void 12 Laye 12 Toul — The principal Church merits notice. The wines of Toul are gtiod. . jro^h S °c* Wh ° g0 from Brussels to Par I 3L Genr ’PP e > Valenciennes , Mon !»e last namJ!t d r 6 ’ Q Ue f uin ’ should visit, (id wks ir 11 ’ lhe Tunnel Cl)t throus \Z n ckrli ‘i n la n d™ n a v i ga lie ' Cambray to the capital. This Tunne one of the most patriotic works of Napoleou, is well ventilated, lighted by means of lamps, and usually provided with water about six feet deep. It admits one barge only at a time, lowed by men, who have a commodious gal- lery to walk in. 352 APPENDIX. \'j Velaine if Nancy — This fine city suffered cruelly from a battalion of Republicans, who passed through it in 1792, and de- stroyed all the chefs-d’oeuvre of art they unfortunately met with. The Place -Boyale merits notice, . as do the Tombs of the ancient Dukes of Lorraine, in the ci-de- vant Franciscan Church. The Cloister of the Franciscans au bon secours contains the grave of king Stanislaus, the great embef- lisher of this city. The Theatre is pretty , and the Hotel do petit Paris and the Hotel Royal are the prin- cipal ions. An extra quarter of a post is paid on quitting Nancy. 2 Dombasle 1% Luneville Benamenil 2 Blamont 2 Hernia g 1 Sarrebourg — Here the Sarre becomes navigable. 1 Hommartin I Phalsbourg 1% Saverne— The road over the mountain of Saverne is much celebrated, and does honour to human industry . 1$ Wasselonne 1^ Iltenheim I I Strasbourg. 60$ posts.* Strasbourg (anciently called Argen tor a turn ) , contains 50,000 inhabitants. The objects best worth notice in this city are — The Munster , and its famous Tower — > the Church of S. Thomas , which contains the Mausoleum of Marshal Saxe, by Pigale — the Arsenal and Cannon- Foundry — the public Grana- ries — - the Foundling-Hospital - — ■ the Hospital Bourgeois — the Observatory — the Maison de Vide —~ihe Citadel— the Bridge over the Rhine— and the Public Library , which is open on Tues- days, Thursdays, and Saturdays. Here is an Academic de mitsique , a French* and a German Theatre. The Ville de Lyon is a good inn ; as are the Hotels de I'Esprit , de la Fleur , la Maison Rouge , etc. * A third ho-se all tha year between Eper- ftay and Jaalons. Do. between S.Dizier and Sandrupt. Do. between Sandrupt and Bar-L-Duc. Do. between Ligny and S. Aubin. [cm. ir. ROUTE FROM PARIS TO STRAS- BURGH, THROUGH TROYES, LAN- GRES, VEZOUL, BEFORT, AND BASLE. 1 Charenton Grosbois 1 Brie-Comte-Robert 2 Guignes 1 Morrnant 1% Nangis Maison-rouge \'h Provins 2 Nogent-sur-Seine 1 Pont-sur-Seine I'h Granges i% Grez T’a Troyes — This city is supposed to contain about 27,000 inhabitants. The Ca- ■ thedral, the Church of S. Etienne, j and the Chateau (once the residence of the Counts of Champagne), are : the objects best worth a Traveller’s ! attention. T.’ie water here is scarcely drinkable. An extra half post is paid on quitting Troyes. 2£ Montierame i % Vandoeuvre 2% Bar-sur-Aube— Celebrated for Its wines. i% Colombey 1 Suzenneeourt 2 Chaumont — The front of the College . Church is admired. Best inn. La Fontaine. 2 Vesaignes 2 Langres- — -This is the highest situated town in France. Several Roman Antiquities have been found here. The mineral waters of Bour- ; bonne— les—Ba ins are only seven j leagues distant from Langres. 1 1 Griffonottes VI Fay -Billot 1 % Cintrey V/ 2 Combeau-Fontaine 1% Pont-sur-Saone 1% Vezoul — Celebrated for its wines. Prin- cipal inns, Les Diligences, L’Ai -J gle Noir, La Tele d’Or. At, Leugne, a village to the east of Vezoul, there is a famous Grotto. The mineral waters of Luxeul are only six leagues from Vezoul. 1 % Calmoutier 2 ” Lure — This town is peculiarly situated on an island formed by a pond, • i and surrounded with woods and mountains. Champagney , 2 Befort— -A strong town. Principal inns, Le Luxembourg, La Ville de Ver- sailles, Le Sauvage. 2 Ch a vanes 2 Altkirk 2 Trois-Maisons Do. between Velaine and Nancy. Do. between Blamont and Heming. Do. between Saverne and Wasselonne. J A third horse, during the six winter months between Ittemheim and Strasburgh. FRANCE— GRENOBLE. 353 CH. II.] 2 Basle* — Frontier- town of Switzerland. See (under Appendix, Germany) the route from Augsburg to Con- stance, Scbaffbausen and Basle. Travellers ought to avoid arriving lale at night here, lest the gates of the town should be shut, i S. Louis-sous-Huningue 1 5 Gros-Kempt 2 Bantzenheim 1H Fessenheim Neuf-Brisack — Built by Louis XIV. The Post-house is out of the town. 2 Markolsheim 25 Friescnheim 1% Kraft 2 Strasbourg — You drive through the beautiful plains of Alsace, and dis- cover, at a great distance, the Mun- ster-Tower of Slrasburgh. , 745 posts. ROUTE FROM PARIS TO BESANCON, THROUGH LANGRES. I 3±% to Langres — See “ Route from Paris to Slrasburgh, through Troyes.” 15 Lonjeau 3 Champlitte 1 2% Gray— -A pretty town. Principal inns, La Ville de Lyon , and Ls Cha- peau rouge. i% Bonboillon r 15 Recologne 2 Besancon. 47 posts. Besancon, anciently called Ve- sontio , is a large and handsome town, seated on tlie Doubs, and possessing a strong Citadel, erect- ed on a rock by Louis xiv. Here are several remains of antiquity ; the most interesting of which are, an Amphitheatre of a hundred and twenty feet in diameter ; a triumphal Arch, and the ruins of a Temple. Principal inns, L'Ho- l * Persons who like water-parties should, if possible, go down the Rhine to Strasburgh. f A third horse all the year from Lyons to Bron ; but not returning. Do. from Bourgoin to Eclosse ; but not re- - turning. Between Eclosse and La Frete, a third horse during the six winter months, both going and returning. A third and fourth horse throughout the year from Yoreppe to Rives ; but not re- turning. § ROUTE FROM GRENOBLE TO GAP, LEADING TO MONT-GENEVRE; AND THENCE TO TURIN; BY WAY OF EMBRUN, MONT-DAUPHIN, AND BRI- ANfON. 2 Yuille— It is much to be lamented that tel National , and L'Hotel des Anciens Sauvages. The envi- rons of this town are picturesque ; and contain celebrated warm Baths. ROUTE FROM PARIS TO GRENOBLE. 605 To Lydn — See the route from Paris to Lyons, by Auxerre and Autun. 15 Bronf 1 S. Laurenl-des-Mures 15 Vcrpilliere 15 Bourgoin 15 Eclosse 2 La Frete V/ 2 Rives 1 1 Voreppe 2 Crenoble. 74 posts. This city, seated on the Isere, and anciently called Gratianopo- lis , is supposed to contain 30,000 inhabitants. The objects best worth notice are — the General- Hospital — the great Church — the Arsenal— and a bronze Her- cules, which adorns one of the Promenades. The seven Won- ders in the environs of Grenoble, (which, by the by, do not quite deserve tneir name), ar e — La Tour sans venin — La Fontaine- ardente — La Montagne inacces- sible — Les Cuves de Sassenage — Les Pierres ophtalmiques de Sas- senage — La Mamie de Brian- con — and La Grotte de N. D. de la Balme.% there are no relays of post-horses on the direct road from Vizille to Brianfon and Monl-Genevre ; as a fine road has been lately made over this Alp, which is considerably lower than Cenis, and provided with a Convent for the accommodation ot Travellers. A third horse all t !, e year between Grenoble and Vizille. 1 La Frey— A third and fourth horse all the year going, hut not returning. 45 Ea Mure — A third horse all the year, both going and returning. \% Souchons — A third horse all the year, both going and returning. Corps— A third horse all the year, l>oth going and returning. 2 La 2 h2 354 APPENDIX. feu. II. ROUTE FROM PARIS TO PERPIGNAN, THROUGH TOULOUSE. '10% Limoges — See the route from Paris to Bordeaux. 3 Pierre-Buffiere 1% Magnac 5 ! \ Massere 2\ Uzerche 2 S. Pardoux 1 / Donzenac 1 '/, Brives 2/. Cressensac 2 Sou iliac 2 l Peyrac 2% Ponl-de-Rhodez 2 % Pelacoy 2$ Cahors — anciently called Cadurci. Here are some Remains of a Roman Am- phitheatre. 3 Madeleine 2 Caussade 2% Monlauban—A handsome town, beau- tifully situated, on a hill; and con- taining above 23,000 inhabitants. The best inns are, Le Tapis Vend, L’ Hotel des Ambassadeurs, and Le Grand Soldi. An extra quarter of a post is paid on quitting Mtomau- han. Canals 1% S. Jorry 2\ Toulouse. 82 % posts. This city, watered by the Ga- ronne, and anciently called To- losa , contains 55,500 inhabitants. The front of the Hotel de Ville and the Bridge merit attention ; the latter being one of the finest in Europe. Toulouse is embel- lished with a variety of pleasant Promenades. Principal inns, L' Hotels du Norct , and de France. i X Castanet — An extra quarter of a post is paid from Toulouse to Castanet. Bassiege 3 '1 Villefranche 2% Caslelnaudary — This town is near the great Canal of Languedoc. 1 i Villepinte 3 Alzonne i 2\ Carcassonne — In the upper town is 2 La Guingelte-de-Boyer 1 \ Brutinet 1 % Gap — The last Post-house established on this road is at Gap. Principal inns, Hotel de Laval , Hotel de Mar- — — chand. 11 posts. * Postmasters are authorised to put on a third horse at every stage between Limoges a Castle which contains some old Law-deeds, written in a very pe- culiar manner upon the bark of trees. 1 Tne ci-devant Capuchin Church j merits notice. Principal inns, L'Ho- I tel de l ’Ange, L’Holel de S. Jean, ; and V Hotel de petit Paris. 2 Barbeirac Moux — A plain covered with olives, vines, corn, and mulberry-trees, and encircled by barren rocks. i 2 Cruscades 2$. Nar bonne — Here are Ruins of several ; Roman edifices , and in the Catlie- ' dral is the tomb of Philip the Bold. Principal inns, L’Hotel de la Dau- \ rude, and H Hotel de France. This city was anciently called Narbo- | nensis. 2% Sigean 2 Eitou 1 Salces 2 Perpignan — The great Church de- serves notice. 10SJS posts.* ROUTE FROM PARIS TO LA RO- CHELLE, THROUGH CHARTRES, TOURS, AND POITIERS. 2\ Versailles 2 Connieres \% Rambonillet — Here is a strong Castle, in which Francis I. expired. 1 % Epernon 1 Maintenon 2 1 Chartres — anciently called Carnutes. The great Church and its Belfry are worth seeing. 2 La Bourdiniere 2 Bonneval 2 Chateaudun 1 \ Cloye 2 Pezou \'j Vendome 1% Neuve S. Amand 1% Chateau-Regnault 2 Monnoye 1% Tours — anciently called Turones. This town, pleasantly situated on the Loire, contains 21,000 inhabitants. The Mall , the Cathedral, and the Church of S. Martin, merit notice. The Cathedral Library contains va- luable manuscripts. Tours is one of the most eligible situations in France for a permanent residence; the so- ciety being good, the surrounding country beautiful, and the climate particularly salubrious, and very and Grizolles : and, at Souillac, the Postmaster is authorised to add a pair of oxen to every four-wheeled carriage, going either to Peyrac or Cressensac; charging three francs, drink- money for the driver inclusive. A third horse all the year between Ville- franche and Caslelnaudary ; for the six winter months between Castelnaudarv and Villepinte ; Do. between Carcassonne and Barbeirac ; and all the year between Narbonne and Perpignan, 355 ch. ii.] FRANCE— CAEN, CHERBOURG, NANTES. seldom visited by the vent de bise ; added to which, provisions and house-rent are cheap. An extra quarter of a post is paid on quitting Tours, except by vvay of Monnoye. i'h Carres-— --This country is watered by the Loire and the Cher, and famed for excellent fruits. 1 Montbazon 1 Sorigny 2 S. Maure 2 Ormes IX Ingrande 1 Chatellerault 1 Barres-de-Nintre 1 La Tricherie 1 Clan 2 Poitiers — This town, formerly called Piclavi, is built at the confluence of the Clain and the Boivre, and said to contain 21,000 inhabitants. Here are the Remains of an ancient The- atre, and a triumphal Arch, or Aqueduct, the latLer of which is now converted into a gate. 1 Croutelle 2 X Lusignan i% Villedieu-du-Perron 2 S. Maixent 1% La Creche IX Nioi't — This town contains a Gothic Church, which was built by the English. Principal inns, Le Raisin de Bourgogne, Les Trois Pigeons, V Hotel de la Paix, etc. Niort is said to have 15,000 inhabitants. Frontenay IX Mauze 1 Laigne 1 % Nuaille IX Grolaud 1 La Rochelle — Here are the Remains of a celebrated Dike, which was con- structed by Cardinal Richelieu. La Rochelle contains 18,000 inhabitants : its harbour is safe and commodious ; and its principal inns are, L’Hotel des Ambassadeurs, and L’Hotel des Princes. The road through Tours and Orleans to Rochelle is 6i posts ; and that through Ven - dome, Tours, Poitiers, Niort, and — Sainles, 6!) posts and a half. 1 * Gl& posts. ROUTE FROMLPARIS TO CHERBOURG, THROUGH CAEN. IX Nan ter re IX S. Germain-en-Laye IX Triel * A third horse all the year between Mon- noye and Tours. Uo. for six months between Tours and O lines. Do. all the year between Poitiers and Lu- signan. Do. all the year between La Creche and La Laigne. Do. dui mg the sis winter months between 1 Meulan 2 Mantes IX Bonnieres 2 Pacy 2 Evreux 2$ La Commanderie 2 La Riviere-ThibouviUe IX Le Marche-Neuf 1% L’Hotellerie IX Lisieux 2 Estreez 1 % Moult 2 Caen — A large city, remarkable for being the burial-place of William, the Con- queror of England. Principal inns, The Hotels d ’Angleterre, de Lon- dres, d’Espagne, etc. An extra quarter ol a post is paid on quilling Caen. IX Bretteville 1’Orgueilleuse 2 Bayeux IX Vaubadon 2X S. Lo 1% S. Jean-Day IX Carentan IX Sainte Mere-Eglise 2 Valognes 2X Cherbourg- — The improvements made in this Harbour by Napoleon highly merit notice. Inns, L’Hotel d’An- gleterre , Le Grave 'Pure, etc. 44X posts. ROUTE FROM PARIS TO l’oRIENT, THROUGH RENNES. 4 IX Rennes — See the route from Paris to Brest. 2 Mordelles 2X Pielan 2 Campeneac 1 Ploermel 1 Roc S. Andre 2 Pont-Guillemet 2X Vannes — Inns, Le Dauphin, Le Lion d’Or, and L’ Hotel de France. 2 Auray — Near this town is a ci-devant Chartreuse, which merits nolice. 2 Landevant IX Hennebon IX L’Orient — -This is one of the pretliest towns in France. Inns, L’Hotel du Commerce, and L’ Hotel des Etran - ftTposts. S ‘ ROUTE FROM PARIS TO NANTES. 10X Dreux — See the route from Paris to Brest. IX Morvillette La Laigne and Nuailhb f A third horse, during the six winter months, between Rennes and Pielan. Do. the whole year between Pielan and Ploermel. Do. during the six winter months between Ploermel and S. Andrih Do. the whole year between S. Andre and Vannes. 356 APPENDIX. 1 Chateauneuf 1 Digny La Louppe 2 Regmalard 2 Beliesme 2 S. Cosme-de-Vair l'l Bonnetable 2 Savigne \'h Le Mans — This town, watered by the Sarte, contains above 18,000 inhabit- ants : its Cathedral merits notice. Its principal inns are, Le Croissant , Le Dauphin, and La Boule d’Or. 2 Gnesselard 1 Foullelourte 2 \ La Fleche 1$ Durtal 2 Suette 2^ Angers — A largo and populous town, seated on the Mayenne. S. Georges 1 Champtoce 1 % Varades if Aneenis 1$ Oudon 1% La Sailleraye Vl Nantes. 488 posts. Nantes, the Condivicum of the Romans, and one of the most considerable cities in France, con- tains 75,000 inhabitants. It is built at the confluence of the ri- vers Erdre and Sevre with the Loire, and adorned by twelve * A third horse, all the year, between Nantes and Gesvres. Do. during the six winter months between La Croix Blanche and Nozay. Do. during the six winter months between [CH. II. bridges ; most of which are handsome. Among the best ho- tels are EHotel de France, and L Hotel des Etrangers. An extra quarter of a post is paid on quitting this city. ROUTE FROM NANTES, THROUGH RENNES, TO SAINT-MALO. V! Gesvres l’i La Croix-Blanche 2 Nozay \\ Derval 1 % Breharaye 2 Roudun 2 Bout-de-Lande 2 Rennes 11 Hede 1 '! S. Pierre-de-Plesguen 1 % Chateauneuf l’i S. Malo— An extra half post is paid if the tide be high. 22 posts. * S. Malo is built on a rock, sur- rounded by sea, and communicat- ing with the land by a causey, called the Silon. The Ramparts merit notice. The best inns are E Hotel du Commerce ; E Hotel de la Paix ; E Hotel de France ; and E Hotel des FoyageurS. Bout-de-Lande and Rennes. Do. all the year between Rennes and Hede. Do. during the six winter months between Hede and Chaleauneuf; and all the year be- tween Chaleauneuf and S. Malo. CHAPTER III. SWITZERLAND. Post-liorses, etc. —Most advantageous way of seeing Switzerland— Money of that country— Geneva— Arrival and departure of Letter-Couriers — Expense of living at Geneva— Dili- gences — Hotels — Route, going post, from Geneva liy the Simplon to Milan, and vice-versa — Price of post-horses on that road — Passage i — Passage of Splugen. Post-horses are only to be met with in particular parts of this country ; but draught-horses may always be hired of Swiss Voi- turins : as may saddle-horses and mules.* Persons, however, who wish to see Switzerland to advan- tage, should travel on foot ; a mode so commonly adopted, that the Foot-passenger is as well received, even at the best inns, as if he came in a splendid equipage. The ex- pense incurred by travelling on foot through Switzerland seldom exceeds five shillings, English mo- ney, per day, for each Traveller : half a crown being, on an average, the price of a table-d hole supper, wine, and lodging inclusive; and Pedestrians should make supper their principal meal. Accounts are kept inlivres and batz ; one Swiss livre being ten batz, or thirty French sous. The old Louis -d’ or, the Napoleon, the French ecu, and demi-ecu, are the coins which pass best throughout Switzerland. GENEVA. ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF LETTER-COURIERS. Letters from Great Britain ar- rive on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, * The price, per day, of a pair of draught- corses, is from twelve to si&teeti florins, beside f S. Gothard— Passage of the Grand S , Bernard Fridays, and Sundays, at six in the afternoon, by the French Courier. Letters for Great Britain go on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Saturdays, at eight in the morning, by the French Courier. Geneva is not a cheap place for permanent residence ; but, never- theless, there are Genevese Fami- lies who take Boarders at four louis-d’or a month ; whereas a person who hires a private lodging, and dines daily at a table-d hote, cannot spend less than double that sum. This town is famous for watches, and gold trinkets of all descrip- tions. Diligences go several times a week from Geneva to Lausanne, Neuchatel, Lyons, Grenoble, and Turin, by way of the Mont-Cenis. ROUTE, GOING POST, FROM GE- NEVA, BY THE SIMPLON, TO MI- LAN : BEING A CONTINUATION OF THE MILITARY ROUTE MADE BY NAPOLEON. The price of post-horses from Geneva, by the Simplon, to the Frontier of Switzerland, is the same as in France; unless (which sometimes happens) Travellers be half a florin to the driver. The price, per day , of a saddle-horse, or mule, is an ecu-ueut. 353 APPENDIX. [ch. m. imposed upon, and made to pay in Swiss livres. 2\ Dovaine 2 Thonon 1% Evian 2^ S. Gingoux 2K Vionnaz 2| S. Maurice 2'i Marligny 2!i Riddcs 2\ Sion 2\ Sierre 2\ Tourtemagne 2\ Viege H Brigge 21 Barisello Sempione (village so called) 2\ Isella 6 ' 2\ Domo-d’Ossola 2 Vogogna 3 Fariolo, or Baven 2% Arona i'& Seslo-Calende 2 Cascina 1% Ro i v A Milan. 52# posts. ROUTE FROM MILAN, BY THE SIM- PLON, TO GENEVA, ACCORDING TO THE ITINERARIO ITALIANO, PUBLISHED AT MILAN, IN THE YEAR 1820. IK Ro \\ Cascina 2 Sesto-Calende 1 Arona 1% Belgix-ate \% Baveno 2 Vogogna 2 Domo-d’Ossola 2K Isella 2K Sempione (village so called) 4% Brigge IK Viege 2 Tourtemagne 2 Sierre 2 Sion 2 Riddes 2 Martigny 2 S. Maurice 2 Vionnaz 2 S. Gingoux 2K Evian V/ Thonon 2 Dovaine 2^ Geneva. 47^ posts- PASSAGE OF S. GOTHARD. Previous to the existence of the new roads over the Simplon and Cenis, this was one of the most frequented routes from Switzer- land into Italy : and the journey from Fluelen to Bellinzone is easily accomplished in four days, whether on foot or on horseback : neither can this passage be called dangerous at any season, except while the snow is melting. Be- tween Fluelen and L’Hopital, the Pfaffen- Sprung, the Cascade, the Devil' s Bridge , the Schollenen, the Urner-lock, and the beau- tiful prospect presented by the Valley of Urseline, are the ob- jects best worth a Traveller’s at- tention. A little beyond the vil- lage of L’Hopital is L'Hospice des Capucins , where Travellers meet with clean beds, good wine, and a hospitable reception ; in re- turn for which they are expected, on going away, to leave a trifling present for the support of this useful establishment. The sum- mit of S. Gothard is a small plain, encompassed by lofty rocks ; and the height of this plain is sup- posed to be 6,790 English feet above the level of ihe Mediter- ranean sea. Between L’Hospice and Bellinzone the views are beautiful ; and the whole route is much embellished by the river Tesino, the forests of firs, the pasturages, the pretty hamlets placed in elevated situations ; and the vines, poplars, chesnuts, wal- nuts, and fig-trees, which con- tinually present themselves to view. Travellers who pass S. Gothard on foot, or on horseback, usually sleep the first night at Ursern ; the second at Airolo, where the inn is good ; the third at G/or- nico ; and the fourth at Bellin- zone. Carriages may pass, by being dismounted, from Altorf to Giornico ; but the expense of conveying a carriage over S. Go- ch. iii.] SWITZERLAND— PASSAGE OF S. BERNARD. 359 thard is seldom less than twenty- four lou!s-d’or. Travellers may either proceed from Bellinzone to Milan, by the Lago Maggiore, or the Lago di Como. 41 PASSAGE OF THE GRAND SAINT BERNARD. Persons who wish to go the shortest way from French Swit- zerland into Italy, usually cross the Grand S. Bernard ; there is, however, no carriage -road be- yond Branchier; though English carriages have occasionally been dismounted at Martigny, and car- ried over the mountain to Aoste, at the expense of eighteen or twenty Napoleons per carriage, according to its size; the trans- port of trunks not included. The price, per day, for every porter- | mule employed on S. Bernard is twenty- six batz; guide and tax I* for the Commissary inclusive ; though Foreigners pay more. From Marligny to L’Hospice is about nine leagues. At Liddes, i where the ascent begins to grow steep, Travellers commonly pause to see the collection of minerals and antique medals belonging to the Cure of Arbeley. These me- dals were chiefly found on S, Ber- nard. From Liddes to S. Pierre is one league ; and the latter vil- lage contains an Inn : here, like- 1 wise, is the military Column , placed by the Romans on what they deemed the highest part of the Maritime Alps.f This coun- try is remarkable for deep hol- lows bordered with rocks, into which hollows the Drance preci- pitates itself with such violence as to exhibit a scene by many persons preferred to the fall of the Rhine at Schaffhausen. From S. Pierre to L’flospice is three leagues ; and every step toward the summit of the mountain in- creases the steepness of the path, and the wildness of the prospects. White partridges are seen here in large numbers. About one league beyond S. Pierre the road consists of snow, frozen so hard that a horse’s hoof scarcely makes any impression on it : this road traverses two valleys; the first being, called Les Enjers des Foireuses, and the second La V allee de la Combe / between which spot and L’Hospice the quantity of snow decreases. E Hospice is supposed to be the most elevated of all human habi- tations in the old world; and some benevolent Monks of the Augustine order live here con- stantly, for the purpose of ac- commodating and succouring Tiavelleis, several of whom owe their preservation to these hu- mane ecclesiastics ; who make a practice of searching out every unfortunate person lost in the snow-storms, or buried by the avalanches : and in this search they are aided by large dogs, who scent Travellers at a considerable distance ; and, in spite of impe- 7 h ake ?! Como, anciently to be fifty miles in length, ™ iles in breadth, and from lake hunted feet in depth. This c en flV T. ' nedwith lbe lown e‘ Como, an- scane PhZo!’ presents a beautiful land- andfn l he younger was horn at Como; The di Sanee t- lof l « eCalbedral is h is Statue. toMito U ro “ Sh BarksSi “ t The most elevated point of the Grand S. Bernard namely , Mont-Velan, is supposed to be (as I have already mentioned) more ba " V C U l 5? n j?" d hioglish feet above the level of the Med.terranean sea : and 1 ’Hospice according to Saussure, is eight thousand and seventy- four Pans feet (though subsequent computations make it only six thousand one hundred and fifty Paris feet) above the level ol tiic Mediterranean sea. 360 APPENDIX. netrable fogs and clouds of snow, are always able to discover and pursue the right road. These useful animals (who seldom bark, and never bite a stranger), carry in baskets, fastened to their necks, cordials and eatables calculated to revive those persons who are nearly frozen to death : and, not- withstanding all that has been lately written relative to the ex- tinction of this race of dogs, they are, at the present moment, more numerous than heretofore. Every Traveller is courteously received at L’Hospice ; and the Sick are provided with good medical and chirurgical assistance, without distinction of rank, sex, country, or religion ; neither is any recom- pense expected for all this hospi- tality; though persons who pos- sess the means seldom fail to leave a testimony of their gratitude in the Poor’s hox belonging to the Church. Travellers should, if possible, find time to ascend the Col de Tenebres (which is not a very fatiguing excursion), in or- der to see a fine view of that part of Mont-Blanc which cannot be discovered from Chamouni. The valley in which L’Hospice stands is long, narrow, and terminated by a small Lake, on the extremity of which the Convent is erected. Near this spot there formerly was a temple consecrated to Jupiter ; and, according to some opinions, the Convent stands precisely on the site of this Temple, from which S. Bernard derives its an- cient name of Mons-Jovis. The conventual Chapel here contains a Monument to the memory of the French General Dessaix, who js represented as being in the act of falling from his horse into the [CH. III. arms of a Grenadier, and utter- ing the words “ Allez, dire au 1 Premier Consul ,” etc. On the Monument is the following in- scription : “ A Dessaix ; mort a. la bataille de Marengo .” The f body was brought hither from I Milan by order of Napoleon, who erected this interesting piece of sculpture to commemorate the i heroic death of his Friend. The j descent from L’Hospice to Aoste occupies between six and seven hours : and at Aoste there are remains of a triumphal Arch, built in the time of Augustus ; the ruins of a Circus , etc. From the last-named town Travellers may proceed either to Turin or Milan. The road to the former city passes through a beautiful country, and the time employed in going need not exceed twenty hours.* PASSAGE OF SPLUGEN. Persons travelling from Suabia, or the country of the Grisons, to Yenice or Milan, will find this the shortest route : though no- body should attempt to cross the mountain of Splugen at the sea- son of the avalanches: and, in- deed, at all seasons, great cau- tion should be used in dangerous places not to agitate the air, even by speaking in a loud voice. When there is such an accumu- lation of snow that the pointed rocks on the summits of the Alps are covered, avalanches may be expected hourly. The road, so far as Coire, is good; but car- riages can proceed no further : from Coire, therefore, Travellers must either walk or ride, or be conveyed in a traineau , or a * See this route, under Appehdix, Itai*y. 361 cb. in .3 SWITZERLAND— PASSAGE OF SPLUGEN. chaise-d-porteur : and the safest ; and pleasantest mode of passing I this Alp is under the guidance of the Messager , who goes every 1 week from Lindau to Milan, and ; undertakes, for a certain price, to defray all the expenses of the 1 passage, board and lodging inclu- sive. It is a much greater fatigue to cross Splugen than Saint Go- thard : but the wildness and sub- ji limity of the prospects compen- sate for every difficulty. The road between Coire and the vil- lage of Splugen is called Via- Mala , not, however, from being a particularly bad road, but in consequence of the terrific aspect of the country through which it [ passes. One of the most striking objects in this route is the Paten-Brucke ; where, by lean- ing over the wall of a bridge, the Traveller discovers an abyss which the rays of the sun never enlightened, and at the same time bears the tremendous roaring of the Rhine, which forms, in this place, a circular basin, whence it issues, like a silver thread, out of a narrow passage in the rocks. i Beyond the Paten- Briicke is Schamserlhal , one of the most I romantic valleys of the Alps; and in the Rheinwald , or forest of the Rhine, are firs of so uncom- mon a magnitude, that one of them is said to measure twenty- five ells round the trunk. The fall of the Rhine , in this forest, l exhibits one of the sublimest ob- ij jecls in nature, which, while it | fills spectators with awe, affords them the pleasure of contem- plating sceues in the creation that no p mcil could imitate. The road here is frequently so nar- row, that a Guide should be sent a-head, in order to stop the beasts of burden (coming from the op- posite side of the mountain), in places where it is possible to pass them ; and to avoid these unplea- sant rencounters, and at the same time escape the wind, which rises about mid-day, Travellers should leave Splugen between, two and three in the morning. The ge- nerality of persons, when they ascend this mountain, lie down at full length in a traineau, drawn by an ox, with their heads next to the pole ; because the as- cent is so steep, that their feet would otherwise be considerably higher than the rest of their bo- dies. It takes a couple of hours to reach the summit, where there is a good inn. The descent on the opposite side, called the Car- dinal, exhibits terrific precipices, at the bottom of which runs the Lyra, with an impetuosity that seems momentarily to increase. The Traveller is then presented with a view of the melancholy valley of S. Jacques ; and pro- ceeds amidst broken rocks and fallen mountains, in rude confu- sion piled upon each other, like the disjointed fragments of a de- molished world; till at length, the hills of Chiavenna, covered with peach and almond -trees, gradually present themselves to view; and unite with the balmy zephyrs of Italy to banish fatigue, by exhilarating the spirits. Travellers usually embark at La Riva , and continue their jouiv ney, either by Como or Ber- gamo. CHAPTER IV, ITALY. LEGHORN, PISA, AND FLORENCE. Italian Posts — Italian Miles— Price of Post-horses in northern Italy— Do. in Tuscany — Do. in the Principality of Lucca— Do. in the Ecclesiastical Territories— Do. in the Kingdom of Naples— Other particulars relative to travelling post in II aly— Particulars relative to tra- velling en voilurier — Tuscany— Current coins— Bankers’ accounts — Pound-weight— Tuscan measure called a braccio— Prices at the principal Hotels — Buona-mano to Attendants — Wages of a Valet-de-Place— Leghorn— Price of carriages— Entrance paid by English Tra- vellers at the Theatre — Articles best worth purchasing— Provisions — Asses’ milk— Fruit— Beccafichi — Ortolans— Size of a Tuscan barrel of wine— Do. of oil— Do. of a catastre of wood — Public carriage from Leghorn to Pisa — Boats — Diligence from Leghorn to Florence — En- virons of Leghorn unwholesome — Arrival and departure of Letter-Couriers— Pisa— Fees to Custom-house Officers and Musicians — Winter price of Lodging-houses— Boxes at the Theatre— Entrance-money— Expense of Job-carriages— Servants’ wages— Dinner at a Re- staurateur’s — Mode in which dinners should be ordered from a Traiteur — Firewood — Mats — Eatables — Milk, cream, oil, and wine — Scales and weights for kitchen-use recommended — Music, drawing, and language-masters — Fees to Medical Men — Banking-house — Prices for making wearing apparel— Bookseller — Tuscany recommended as a cheap country for permanent residence— Arrival and departure of Letter-Couriers at Pisa— Price for franking letters — Price of a seat in the Diligence from Pisa to Florence— Persons going this journey advised not to have their baggage plumbed— Hotels and private Lodging-houses at Flo- rence-Winter price of the latter; and where to apply for information respecting them — Price of hoard and lodging in an Italian family — Further particulars relative to prices at Inns — Coffee-houses — Restaurateurs — Table d’Hote— Price, per month, for a carriage and horses— Do. per day — Provisions in general— Asses’ milk, wine, oil, ice, medicines — Price of Butchers’ meat, bread, poultry, elc.— Price of table-wine — Best Bookseller — Shops for foreign wine, English porter, tea, medicines, etc.— Grocer— Silk-mercer — Linen-drapers — Shoes and boots — Tailors — Ladies’ dress-makers — Coach-makers — Money-changer — Fire— wood— Fees to Medical Men and Notaries Public— Prices at the Theatres — Music-masters, etc.— Sculptors— Painter— Bankers— Arrival and departure of Letter-Couriers— Country- houses near Florence. LENGTH OF AN ITALIAN POST. The length of an Italian post is from seven to eight miles : but the miles of Italy differ in ex- tent ; tli at of Piedmont and Genoa being about one English mile and a half; tliat of Lombardy, about sixty yards less than an English mile ; that of Tuscany, a thou- sand geometrical paces ; that of the Ecclesiastical State, the same length (which is about one hun- dred and fifty yards short of an English mile); and that of the Kingdom of Naples, longer than the English mile, by about two hundred and fifty yards. PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN THE SARDINIAN TERRITORIES. Every draught horse, per post, one French livre and fifty cen- times. Every carriage furnished by a post-master, one livre and fifty centimes. ch. iv.] ITALY— PRICE OF Every postillion, one livre and fifty centimes. TARIFF. CABRIOLETS. No. of Persons. Horses. Price for each Horse. 1, or 2 2 1 liv. 50 cent. 3 3 1 §0 4 1,2, or 3 3 2 LIMONIERE9. 3 1 50 4 I, 2, or 3 3 2 BERLIN 333. 4 1 50 4, or 5 6 1 50 6 6 i 75 A child, if under six years of age, is not l^paid for. If a Limoniere contain above four persons, and if a Berime icontain above six, an additional Lcharge is made of one livre and (fifty centimes per post. PASSAGE OF CENIS. From the first of November to the first of April the price of i every draught-horse, from Mola- ret to Lanslebourg, and from Lanslebourg to Susa, is two livres >er post : and from the fifteenth |bf September to the fifteenth of ( May, the same price is charged or every additional horse and nule, from Susa to Molaret, front Molaret to Mont Cenis, and from 9 Lanslebourg to Mont Cenis; but lot vice versa. T6 every Ca- briolet, containing one or two lersons, one additional horse is idded — to every Cabriolet , con- taining three persons, two addi- ional horses and a postillion- — to -very Cabriolet , containing four persons, three horses and a postil- 10n — to every Limoniere , con- taining two persons, two horses *jnd a postillion- — to every Limo- yiiere, containing three or four persons, three horses and a pos- lUllion — and to every Berline , POST-HORSES, etc. 363 containing three or four persons, two horses, and a postillion. PASSAGE OF THE ECHELLES. The Post-master here is obliged to furnish, in addition to his horses, draught-oxen, at one livre and fifty centimes the pair, per post. To every Cabriolet d glaces , drawn by two horses, one pair of oxen must be added — to every Limoniere, drawn by three or four horses, .one pair of oxen in summer, and two pair in winter — to every Berline , drawn by four horses, two pair of oxen— and to every Berline , drawn by six horses, two pair of oxen in summer, and three pair in win- ter. To an open Cabriolet , con- taining only one persou, no oxen are added ; but the post-master at Echelies is authorised to add an extra -horse to S. Thibault-du- Coux. ASCENT OF THE SIMPLON. The Post - masters at Domo d’Ossola and Yeselles are autho- rised to put one additional horse to carriages drawn by two or three horses; and two additional horses to carriages drawn by four horses : but they are not autho- rised to put more than six horses to any carriage whatever. PASSAGE OF THE ROCCHETTA. From Novi to Yoltaggio, and from Yoltaggio to Campo-Ma- ronee, and vice versa, twenty- five centimes per post are added to the charge for every draught- horse. At Turin it is advisable that persons who intend to travel post should apply to the Direzione ge- nerate delle Poste, for an order respecting post-horses ; which or- 364 APPENDIX. [CH. IV. der, called a Bulls Ion, saves trou- ble, and prevents imposition. PR&E OP POST-HORSES IN’ THE LQMBARDQ-VENETIAN REALM. Every pair of draught-horses, per post, five French livres and fifty centimes. Every Calesse , furnished by a post-master, forty centimes ; and every close carriage, furnished by a post-master, eighty centimes. Every postillion, one livre and fifty centimes : postillions, how- ever, are seldom satisfied with less than double that sum.* PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN TUS- CANY. Every pair of draught-horses, ten pauls a post ; except on quit- ting Florence, when the price is six pauls per horse. The third horse, four pauls. Every saddle-horse, five pauls. Every postillion, three pauls. Hostler, at every p st, half a paid for every pair of horses. Every Calesse, furnished by a post -master, three pauls: and every carriage, with four places, six pauls. A postillion expects five pauls for every common post, and six pauls on quitting Florence. PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN THE PRINCIPALITY OF LUCCA. Every pair of draught-horses, ten pauls a post. The third horse, four pauls. Hostler, at every post, half a paid for every pair of horses. Every saddle-horse, five pauls. Every postillion, three pauls. Every Calesse, furnished by * The price of Post-horses in the Duchies of Parma and Modena, is the same as in the Lombardo-Venetian realm ; except from Fio- renzuola to Cremona, and from Caste! San- a post-master, three pauls; and every carriage, with four places, six pauls. Travellers, on quitting Lucca, are charged fifteen pauls for every pair of draught-horses. PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN THE ECCLESIASTICAL TERRITORIES. Every pair of draught-horses, ten pauls a post. The third horse, four patds. Every saddle-horse, four pauls. Every postillion, three pauls and a half. Hostler, at every post, half a paid for every pair of horses. Every Calesse , furnished by a post-master, three pauls; and every carriage with four inside places (furnished by a post-mas- ter), six pauls per post. A postillion expects five pauls per post. Travellers are charged an ex- tra half-post on quitting Rome* PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN THE KINGDOM OF NAPLES. Great Roads . Every draught- horse, and every saddle-horse, six carlini and a half per post. Every postillion one carlino and a half per post for each horse. Hostler, at provincial post- houses, half a carlino for every pair of horses — hostler, at the Naples post-house, one carlino for every pair of horses. Cross Roads. Every draught- horse, nine carlini per post. Every postillion, two carlini per post. Every carriage with two inside places, furnished by a post-mas- ter, five carlini ; and every car- Giovanni to Pavia, at which places the price is seven livres and fifty centimes fox every pair of draught-homes. 365 j ch. iv.] ITALY— PRICE OF f riage with four inside places (fur- nished by a post-master), ten car- lini per post. A postillion expects six carlini | a post. For a post-royal, in the Neapo- litan territories, an extra half- post is charged. Hostlers in Italy are seldom ! contented with less than twice their due : and the person who throws water over the wheels of I travelling carriages (a necessary * operation in Hot weather), ex- pects half a paul for his trouble. An English post-chaise, with . shafts, conveying two or three persons only, and not heavily laden, is allowed to travel with two, or, at most, three horses, in those parts of northern Italy which are not mountainous : but, 3 if the carriage convey four per- sons, it is not allowed to travel with less than four horses. A i: Calesse , conveying three persons, 1 and only one trunk - , is allowed to travel with two horses. In Tuscany, if the road be not mountainous, an English post- chaise, with a pole, conveying three persons, and no trunk, is allowed to travel with two horses only : but English carriages con- veying four persons and trunks, are not allowed to travel with less than four horses. In the Eccle- siastical territories, a two-wheeled carriage , conveying three persons, and only one trunk, is allowed to travel with two horses; but, if it convey more than one trunk, three horses are indispensable : and persons who travel with more than two large trunks, are subject ( to a tax of two pauls per post for | every extra-trunk, vache, or port- ' manteau. A four-wheeled car- riage, with a pole, conveying six j persons and one trunk, is allowed POST-HORSES, etc. to travel with only four horses ; but if it convey seven persons, or six persons and two large trunks, six horses are indispensable. A four-wheeled carriage, half open, in the German fashion, and con- veying only two persons, and one small trunk, is allowed to travel with only two horses. To the driver of every extra draught-horse, it is customary to ive two pauls, though he cannot emand any remuneration. In the Neapolitan Territories, a four-wheeled carriage, convey- ing lour persons and one large trunk, is allowed to travel with four horses only ; but if it convey six persons, and two large trunks, six horses are indispensable. A two-wheeled carriage, conveying two persons and one large trunk, is allowed to travel with two horses ; but, if it convey three persons and a large trunk, three horses are indispensable. Every post-master should be paid for his horses before they set out. Shafts are not used either in the Tuscan, Roman, or Neapoli- tan Territories. The average price paid in Italy for accommodations at Inns, by persons who travel post, is as fol- lows : Pauls. Breakfast, per head, in 1 irge towns . . 3 in small towns . . 2 Dinner, per head, in large lowns ... 10 in small towns . , . S Beds, from three to five pauls each. It is more economical, and less troublesome in Italy, to travel en voilurier, than to travel post, blit it is more fatiguing ; because per- sons who accomplish a long jour- ney with the same horses must, generally speaking, travel slower than if they changed horses at every post ; and, therefore, per- 366 APPENDIX. sous who follow the latter plan, need not rise so early as those who follow the former. If a Voi- turin have good horses, they will go from forty to fifty Roman miles a day; arriving, in due time, at the destined sleeping -places. Mules are less expeditious, because they seldom trot. A Voiturin usually expects for conveying Travellers, in their own carriage, from one part of the Continent to another, twelve francs a day per draught-horse : six francs a day for each master ; three francs a day for each child ; and four francs and a half a day for each servant : and for this price he furnishes good horses, or mules, together with breakfast, supper, and beds ; or dinner, supper, and beds : but, if he con- vey Travellers in a carriage be- longing to himself, he seldom ex- pects more than three-quarters of the above-named price, because he can make a considerable profit by filling the carriage with passen- gers on his return. The buona-mano usually given to a Voiturier, if he behave well, is about half a Spanish dollar per day. The fare, in a public carriage, from Florence to Rome, and like- wise from Rome to Naples, sup- pers and beds inclusive, is from ten to twelve scudi ; unless it be a voiture de retour , in which case the fare is about eight scudi. If passengers, merely to accom- modate themselves, require a Voi- turier to stop one or more days on the road, he expects them to pay six francs per night, for the sustenance of each of his horses. * Ten pants make one Francescone, or scjJo; which is five francs and sixty cen- times of France. An Old Louis-d’or is usually current in [CH. it. A Voiturin commonly pays in Italy, for his Passengers, the fol- lowing prices at inns : — Breakfast, per bead, from a paul and a half to two pauls — dinner, three pauls — -supper and bed, five pauls : but Foreigners who pay for themselves at inns can seldom, if ever, make so good a bargain. Italian and Swiss Voiturins usually pay for their passengers, in France, four francs a head for supper and beds ; and about two francs for dinner. Italian and Swiss voiturins likewise pay, for permission to travel in France, a tax of five sous a horse per post, unless it be at those post-houses where they dine or sleep. As Neapolitan Voiturins are deemed the worst in Italy, be- cause notorious for breaking their engagements, Travellers should avoid going en voiturier , from Naples to Rome ; unless it be with the Post-master’s horses. TUSCANY. can RENT COINS. English. L s . d. Bus-pone, equal to about . . Ill 6 Zecchino . . 0 10 6 Francescone , or Scudo* ..050 Half ditto 0 2 6 Piece of three paoli, or pauls .016 Piece of two paoli .... 0 J 0 Lira ....009 Paolo 006 Mezzo-Paolo 0 0 3 Piece of two crazie, four of which make one paolo , or paul. Crazia , eight of which make one paul. Quattrino , five of which make one crazia. Soldo , one of which makes three quattrini. The one-paul piece of Pxome Tuscany for about forty-two pauls, and a Napoleon for about thirty-six pauls : but the value of French gold is ‘fluctuating. ITALY —LEGHORN % 367 cn, iv. J is current for one paul of Tus- cany. The two-paul piece of Rome is current for two pauls of Tus- cany, wanting four quattrini. The Spanish dollar is usually current for about nine pauls and a half. This coin is frequently called a pezzo-duro. The real value of the ruspone is only sixty pauls ; but it can sel- dom be purchased under sixty- three ; owing to the agio on gold : and, from the same cause, the , zecchino , which is worth only twenty pauls, can seldom be pur- I chased under twenty-one. Bankers’ accounts throughout ) Tuscany, are kept in pezze , soldi, i and danari ; or lire, soldi , and t danari. Twelve danari make one soldo ; twenty soldi make one lira;* five lire and fifteen soldi , or, at most, six lire, make the imaginary coin called a pezze, or piece of eight ; and for each of these, a Banker ! charges so many English pence, . according to the exchange, when he gives cash for a bill upon London, f Bankers, according ' to the Tuscan law, are obliged 1 either to pay in gold, or to allow an agio if they pay in silver : the agio varies from week to week according to the demand for gold. The pound weight of Tuscany is divided into twelve ounces ; the ounce into twenty-four de- niers ; and the denier into twenty- i four grains. The Tuscan ounce is somewhat less than the Eng- lish. The common Tuscan measure, called a braccio , is about twenty- two English inches and a half ; two braccia making one ell. Prices at the principal Hotels 1 * A lira of Tuscany is one paul and a half. , f « the exchange lie, as it usually is, in are much the same in Leghorn, Pisa, and Florence; namely, for a large apartment from twenty to thirty pauls a day ; and for smaller apartments, from ten to fifteen pauls a day. For break- fast, from two to three pauls a head; for dinner, from eight to ten pauls a head; for servants, from four to five pauls a head per day ; and with regard to buona-mano to attendants at inns, the waiter usually expects about one paui per day, and the chamber-maid still less ; that is, if Travellers reside at an inn by the week or month; but, if they come for a few nights only, they are expected to pay more liberally. The wages of a valet-de-place is four pauls per day through- out Tuscany, he finding himself in board, lodging, and clothes. LEGHORN. The price of close carriages here is rather exorbitant ; but open carriages, called Timonelli , ply in the High Street, like our Hackney coaches, and may be hired on reasonable terms. The price of a box at the Theatre varies according to tl*e merit of the Performers ; but is usually high. The entrance-mo- ney paid by English Travellers, exclusive of the price of a box, is three pauls for an opera, and two for a play. Tea, coffee, sugar, English mus- tard, foreign wines, brandy, rum, arrack, porter, Bristol-beer, and Gorgona anchovies, may all be purchased cheaper at Leghorn than in any other city of Italy ; so likewise may soap, starch, and hair-powder. favour of England, every paul costs about five pence. 368 APPENDIX. Mecali, in Via -Grande, has a magnificent shop, containing a great variety of sculpture in ala- baster and Carrara marble, jewels, trinkets, silks, linens, muslins, etc. ; but the persons who serve in this shop usually ask much more than they take. Silks, linens, and muslins, may be purchased very cheap of the Jews, by the expert in making bargains. Persons who wear flannel should provide themselves with a stock at Leghorn ; it being sometimes difficult to find this useful article of clothing in other parts of Italy. Town ley, in Via Grande, sells flannel, and other English goods. Provisions at Leghorn are, ge- nerally speaking, good ; butter and oil, however, must be ex- cepted ; as both are very indif- ferent; but it is easy to obviate this inconvenience, by having Cascina butter from Pisa, and oil from Lari. Carriers, called Procaccini , go daily to the for- mer place; and from the latter the Peasants come to sell poultry, fruit, etc., at Leghorn, three or four times a week. Invalids may be regularly sup- plied with good asses’ milk at one crazia the ounce ; (the usual price throughout Tuscany); goats’ and cows’ milk may likewise be procured with ease ; but persons who make a point of having the last quite genuine, should send into the country for it ; and with respect to asses’ milk, it is requi- site for some trusty person to watch the milking of the ass, in order to prevent the infusion of hot water.* [ch. IV. Malta and Genoa oranges, fine dates, and English potatoes, may frequently be purchased at Leg- horn. There is an oyster-house near this city, and the oysters are good, but extremely dear. Figs and grapes, in their season, are abundant and excellent ; par- ticularly the white fig, and small transparent white grape ; the last of which, if gathered dry, put into paper bags, and hung up in an airy room, may be preserved all the winter. The best sort of dried figs is generally sold in small baskets of about one foot long and four or five inches wide. Levant figs and Spanish raisins may be purchased at Leghorn ; and about the month of Septem- ber large numbers of small birds, resembling the English wheat- ear, and called in Italian Bec- cafichi , are caught daily on the plain near this town. Or- tolans also abound in southern Italy. A Tuscan barrel of wine con- tains twenty flasks, and a barrel of oil sixteen flasks. Wood is sold by the catastre , the dimen- sions of which should be these : length, braccia six; breadth, brac- cia one and a half ; height, brac- cia two. A public carriage goes daily from Leghorn to Pisa. Public boats likewise go daily by means of the Canal, and the passage-money in these vessels is six crazie , or at most one paul for each person. The price of a private boat is from from ten to twelve livres ; and the price of one place in the Diligence, from Leghorn to Florence, thirty pauls. It is not advisable for Travellers * The ram who milks the ass usually car- with the milk so expertly that it ia difficult ries, under his cloak, a bottle filled with hot to detect him. water ; some of which he contrives to mix ch. rr.] ITALY- • to Lire a country-residence near Leghorn, its environs being reck- oned unwholesome. ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE "OF LETTER-COURIERS. Sunday , at eight in the morn- s ing, arrive letters from all parts I of Tuscany, Elba, Lucca, Naples, i Sicily, Rome, Lombardy, Ve- nice, Switzerland, Germany, and Trieste, and all northern Eu- rope. Monday afternoon from Pisa, Pietrasanta, Lucca, Massa, Pied- mont, Genoa, France, Spain and Portugal. Wednesday , at seven in the morning , from the same places as on Sunday, Elba excepted. Wednesday afternoon , from the same places as on Monday; and likewise from Great Britain. Friday, at seven in the morn- ing , from all parts of Tuscany, Elba, Lucca, Rome, Naples, Lom- bardy, Venice, and Trieste. Friday afternoon, from France, Great Britain, Spain, and Por- tugal, Piedmont, Genoa, Lucca, Pisa, and Pietrasanta. Monday , at half past six in the evening, go letters for all parts of Tuscany, Elba, Lucca, Naples, and Sicily, Rome, Lom- bardy, Venice, Switzerland, Ger- many, and all northern Europe. Tuesday, at haf past seven in the evening , go letters for Pisa, Pietrasanta, Massa, Lucca, Piedmont, Genoa, France, Great Britain {via France), Spain, and Portugal. W ednesday, a t half pas t seven in the evening, go letters for all parts of Tuscany, Lucca, and Rome. Thursday , at half past seven -PISA. 369 in the evening , go letters to the same places as on Tuesday. Friday , at half past seven in the evening , go letters to the same places as on Monday. Saturday, at half past seven in the evening, go letters to Pisa, Lucca, Pietrasanta, Massa, Pied- mont, Genoa, France, Great Bri- tain, Spain, and Portugal, via France. Letters are usually delivered about nine in the morning ; and must be put into the post-office before five in the evening, and franked for every place beyond Tuscany. PISA. A custom-house officer follows Travellers to their inn, or lodging, when they enter Pisa, and expects a fee of five pauls. A band of musicians likewise waits upon Strangers at their arrival, and expects from three to five pauls. BEST LODGING-HOUSES. AVERAGE PRICE IN WINTER. Casa-Agostini,Lung’ Arno, No. 722, about twenty sequins per month. — Casa-Bertoli, Lung’ Arno, No. 721, large and hand- some apartments, a third floor, about thirteen sequins a month. — No. 742, Via-Coraia ; roomssmaU, but neat, and sufficient in number for two persons ; price mode- rate. — Casa-Lenzi, Lung 1 Arno, about twenty sequins a month. — No. 951, Via di Sapienza, two suites of handsome apartments. — No. 694, Lung 1 Arno, one suite of good apartments ; thirty sequins a month. — Marble Palace, Lung 1 Arno, fine apartments. — Casa- Chiesa, a good apartment. — Casa- Rau, fine apartments. — Casa-Pa- 370 APPENDIX. [ch. iv. nichi, Lung Arno, No. 716, a neat apartment on the first floor, large enough for three persons. —No. 887, Via S. Maria, four- teen well-furnished rooms, and a small garden ; twenty sequins a month, if taken for half a year. All these lodging-houses are well situated for Invalids : other apart- ments, which have not this advan- tage, let at a much lower price. Rooms sufficient to accommodate a moderate sized family may usu- ally be hired at the Tre Don- zelle for about twenty sequins a month. The price of every lodg- ing, however, varies from year to year, according to the number of Foreigners. The hire of linen per month is generally about five sequins for a large family- but linen and plate are commonly found by the owners of lodging- houses. Boxes at the Theatre may be procured on very moderate terms; except it be during the last week of Carnival, when the price is considerably augmented. The entrance-money paid by English Travellers, exclusive of the hire of a box, is two pauls. The hire of a carriage and horses, coachman’s wages inclu- sive, is from eighteen to twenty sequins a month ; and the price for an airing, buona-mano inclu- sive, is ten pauls. The w'ages of a Housemaid, throughout southern Italy, is about three crowns a month and a dinner ; she finding herself in lodging, bread and wine — the wages of a Footman from four to eight crowns and a din- * By Fountain- water is meant that con- veyed to Pisa through the Aqueduct. f It is an excellent general rule, either not to let your cook market for you, or to limit him to a certain, sum for dinner, charcoal, ner ; he finding himself in bread and wine — the wages of a House- j maid who finds herself in bed and board, and fetches Fountain- water, is at Pisa one lira per day * — and the wages of a good Cook, throughout southern Italy, is from ten to twelve crowns per month and a dinner ; he finding himself in lodging, bread and wine, and an Assistant to wash saucepans, dishes, etc.f The price of dinner, per head, at a Restaurateur s, table- wine and bread inclusive, is from three to five pauls. Families who have their dinner daily from a Traiteur should not order it per head, but per dish ; specifying the kind of dinner they wisli for, and the price they choose to give. There are various sorts of fire- wood at Pisa : that called legna dolce is the most wholesome; though it consumes very quick : that called legna forte is usu- ally burnt in kitchens ; but may be mixed with the other, for parlour-consumption ; though I would not advise the burning it in bed-rooms. Vendors of wood frequently cheat in the measure, either by bringing a braccio to measure with not so long as the law directs, or by placing the wood hollow, and thus making it appear more than it is. The husks of olives serve for fuel, and are an excellent sub- stitute for charcoal, and in olive- countries very cheap. Invalids always find it neces- sary to mat their roofms during winter, in order to avoid the and kitchen fire-wood: hut English Travel- lers who are accompauied by honest English Servants, always find it answer to let those Servants market for them. ITALY— PISA. CH. IV.] \ chill which strikes to the soles I' of the feet from brick and marble floors. Mats of all lengths may be purchased on the Quay ; the price is half a paid the braccio ; and every mat ought to be two braccia and a half wide. The Pisa market is, generally speaking, a good one ; though I fresh fish can never be abso- |;. lutely depended upon but on Fri- days, unless it be in Lent. The best fishes are the dory, called I j pesce di S. Pietro ; the grey and the red mullet, called triglia ; the turbot, called rombo ; the tunny, called tonno ; the 1am- ^prey, called lampredo ; sturgeon, i called storione ; ombrina, pesce- I cavallo, spada , dentici, para go, 1; (all five peculiar, I believe, to the Mediterranean); the sole, called sogliola ; the Mediterranean lob- ester, called gambero del mare ; prawns and shrimps. The fish which comes from Via Reggio „ is generally excellent. The tench and carp at Pisa are remarkably I fine; so likewise are the pike, and other fishes, of the Arno and IlSerchio.* The mutton of Pis- toja, which may frequently be purchased at Pisa, is excellent in point of flavour, and particular- ly light of digestion. The Lucca- veal, frequently sold at Pisa, is excellent. Beef and pork are very fine; turkeys good; capons and fowls indifferent ; hares ex- f cellent; other game plentiful, but not always so well flavoured as \ in England. Wild-fowl good and i plentiful. Venison may be pur- | chased both in spring and au- 1 tumn, but is reckoned best during the latter season. Wild-boar may * What Italians deem the best fishes are distinguished by the appellation of Pesce I Nobile. The taste of Englishmen, however, f docs not exactly agree with that of the Ita- 371 be purchased during winter and spring. With respect to vege- tables, the broccoli and salads are particularly good ; but vegetables in Italy, salad excepted, should, generally speaking, be stewed, or they may probably disagree with weak stomachs. Pisa is well sup- plied with grapes, figs, pears, ap- ples, and other winter-fruits, the best of which come from Florence and Pistoja. The butter made at the royal Cascina is excellent.^ Good cows’ milk and cream may be purchased at the above-named Cascina . Good oil may be bought at some of the palaces ; as every Tuscan nobleman sells the pro- duce of his olive-gardens and vineyards. With respect to ta- ble-wine, that of Pisa is unwhole- some ; but that of Florence may easily be procured by water-car- riage, and is not only pleasant to the taste, but salutary to most constitutions.— -There are several kinds of Florence-wine ; and that usually drank as common table- beverage, costs from a paul and a half to two pauls the flask. Scales and weights are neces- sary articles of kitchen-furniture in Italy. Persons who wish to be in- structed in music, drawing, and the Italian and French languages, may procure good masters, upon moderate terms, at Pisa. The common fee to medical men is a scudo from Foreigners; though the natives give much less. Some of the English Travellers give a sequin a visit to Italian physicians. Gaso-Mecherini, the principal banking-house at Pisa, will supply linns in this particular. + This butter supplies the Roman markets, and sutlers very little from its journey. 372 APPENDIX. [ch. iv. Foreigners with money ; but it is more advantageous to procure it at Leghorn. The price of common shoes is eight pauls the pair, whether for men or women. The price for making a man’s suit of clothes about twenty pauls, all charges inclusive. The price for making a Lady’s dress nine or ten pauls, beside body lining. Sig. Antonio Peverata, Book- seller, No. 694, Lung’ Arno, is an honest man, and very useful to Foreigners. Pisa may be called a cheap place for permanent residence ; as may Pistoja, Florence, and Siena ; be- cause, supposing the exchange in favour of England (which it com- monly is throughout Tuscany), a moderate sized family might, in any of the above-named cities, live handsomely for six hundred pounds sterling per annum ; and even large families who visit Italy, either for the purpose of educat- ing their children, or of travelling from place to place in search of amusement, will not, if they know how to avoid imposition, findtheir disbursements exceed one thou- sand pounds sterling per annum. For the purpose of education, better masters may usually be procured at Florence than in any other Italian city. Sunday morning arrive letters from Florence, and other parts of Tuscany, Rome, Naples, Sicily, Bologna, northern Italy, Switzer- land, Germany, the kingdom of the Netherlands, Denmark, Swe- den, Poland and Russia. Monday evening from Genoa, France, Spain, Piedmont, Massa, Carrara, Lucca, and Leghorn. Tuesday evening from Piom- bino, Porto Ferrajo, Lucca, and Leghorn. Wednesday morning from Flo- rence, and other parts of Tuscany, Rome, Naples, Bologna, northern Italy, Switzerland, Germany, the Netherlands, Denmark, Sweden, Poland, and Russia. Wednesday evening from Luc- ca, and Leghorn, Genoa, France, and Great Britain. Thursday evening from Lucca. Friday morning from Florence, and other parts of Tuscany ;Rome, Bologna, Ferrara, Ancona, Ve- nice, etc., Genoa, France, Spain, Great Britain, Piedmont, Massa, and Carrara. Friday evening from Piombino, Portoferrajo, Lucca, and Leghorn. Saturday evening from Lucca and Leghorn. Monday evening go letters for Florence, and other parts of Tus- cany, Rome, Naples, Sicily, Bo?- logna, northern Italy, Switzer- land, Germany, the Netherlands, Denmark, Sweden, Poland, Rus- sia, Piombino, Portoferrajo, Leg- horn, and Lucca. Tuesday evening go letters for Genoa, France, Spain, Great Bri- tain, Piedmont, Massa, Carrara, Lucca, and Leghorn. W r ednesday evening go letters for Florence, and other parts of Tuscany; Rome, Naples, Bologna, Ferrara, Ancona, Venice, and Lucca. Thursday evening go letters for Leghorn, Lucca, Genoa, France, and Great Britain. Friday evening go letters for Florence, and other parts of Tus- cany ; Rome, Naples, and Sicily, Bologna, northern Italy, Switzer- land, Germany, the Netherlands, Denmark, Sweden, Poland, Ru$* sia, Piombino, Portoferrajo, and Lucca. ITALY— -FLORENCE. 373 CH. IV.] Saturday evening go letters for Genoa, France, Spain, Great Bri- tain, Piedmont, Massa, Carrara, Lucca, and Leghorn. Letters must be put into the Post-office before five in the after- noon, and franked for every place, except Florence and Leghorn. : The price for franking a single r letter to England is six crazie. The price of one place in the - Diligence from Pisa to Florence is [ one sequin. Persons going from Pisa to Flo- l rence had better not have their ; baggage plumbed, it being neces- sary either to undergo an exami- i- nation, or present the custom- ] house officers in the latter city l with five or ten pauls, according to the quantity and quality of the luggage. FLORENCE. The best Hotels, and some of the best private Lodging-houses in r Italy are to be found at Florence ; and the price of good apartments, r<. compared with the prices at Rome and Naples, is not exorbitant. LODGING-HOUSES. AVERAGE PRICE IN WINTER. Palazzo S. Clemente, Yia S. Bastiano, two suites of handsome apartments, each thirty sequins a i month ; a good garden ; and the i warmest situation in Florence-— Palazzo-Strozzi, Yia della Scala, 1 a fine house* and beautiful gar- i den; sixty sequins a month— Pa- I' lazzo-Corsi, Yia Ghibellina, two 1 suites of apartments, each thirty j sequins for one month only ; but I less if taken for a longer term — i Palazzo -Quaratesi, "Via d’ogni i Santi, one set of apartments , for ty- * five sequins a month; another set, twenty-eight ditto — Gasa-Pucci, opposite the Teatro-Goldoni, is a good lodging — The Palazzo-Ac- ciaioli. Lung Arno, contains seve- ral apartments — Casa-Riccasoli, Lung’ Arno, is a prelty house for a small family : and in the Piazza S. Mari a Novella, and several other parts of the city, small apartments may be easily met with. Plate and linen are generally found in the lodgings at Florence; but, if not found, the hire of linen for a large family is about five se- quins a month. Noble apartments unfurnished may be hired by the year for, comparatively speaking, nothing. As the Tuscans take no pains to advertise their vacant apart- ments, audit is consequently diffi- cult to discover them, Travellers would do well to apply for infor- mation at the shops of Molini, Meggit, and To wnley. Board and lodging for a Lady, or Gentleman, in an Italian fa- mily, tea and foreign wine not inclusive, usually costs about fif- teen sequins a month : and at the house of Madame Merveilleux du Plant is, which contains good a- partmenls, comfortably furnished, board and lodging, lea and com- mon table wine inclusive, costs, for a Lady, or Gentleman, by the year, fifty pounds sterling ; by the half year, thirty pounds ; by the quarter, twenty pounds ; per month, seven pounds ; and per week, two pounds. Since the first part of this work was printed, Madame du Plantis has removed from No. 4380, to No. 42*15, Pi- azza S. Maria Novella. Fcatber- slonliaugh’s Hotel de l' Europe, Piazza S. Gaetano, is excellent. At the Hotel des Hr rues d' An- gle teire, kept by Gasperini, a Family, consisting of four mas- ters and four servants, may have 2 K 374 APPENDIX. [CH. IV. a good apartment, breakfast, ex- cellent dinners, tea, wax-lights, and night-lamps, for eighty Iran- cesconi a week : * and the master of the Locanda di S. Luigi (by name Luigi FalugiJ, will supply four masters and four servants with breakfast, dinner, a good dessert, and two bottles of table- wine, together with milk and but* ter for tea, at five scudi a day. The price, per head, for break* fast, at a Coffee-house, is about one paul;f and the price, per head, for dinner, at the house of a Restaurateur, or at a Table d'Hote , is from three to five pauls, table-wine inclusive. The price, per month, for a good carriage and horses, coach- in ans wages inclusive, is from twenty to twenty-five sequins, according to the expense of pro- vender. Innkeepers usually charge for their carriages, by the day, about twenty pauls. Provisions, in general, are good; though fresh fish can only be pro- cured on Fridays and Saturdays. Figs, peaches, wateivmelons, and grapes are, in their repective sea- sons, excellent. Good cows’ milk and good butter are not to be ob- tained without difficulty ; asses’ milk is excellent ; and the wine made in the neighbourhood of Florence is palatable and whole- some : the best sorts, called Vino Santo, Leatico, and Artiminio, come from the vicinity of Fiesole, where the oil, likewise, is parti- cularly good. Ice (or, more pro- perly speaking, frozen snow) costs two pauls and a half per every hundred pounds. The best medicines are sold at the Farmacia Formini, in the Pi- azza del Granduca ; and by the Grand Duke’s Apothecary. The usual price of butchers’ meat is from five to six crazie the ound — the usual price of the est bread about four crazie the pound *— a turkey costs from five to ten pauls, according to its size; a fowl from one lira to three pauls —^partridges from four to six pauls the brace — a beccafico from three to five crazie — an ortolan from six crazie to a paul — and the best ta- ble wine from a lira to two pauls per flask. Sig. Giuseppe Molini, Booksel- ler, has an English Reading Room, and a shop containing English books, paper, pens, pencils, etc., in Via Archibusieri ; and a much better Library at No. 823, Piazza di S. Maria in Campo ; where he likewise has a Printing Office. Meggit, in the Piazza del Duomo, sells good Foreign wine, porter, tea, English medicines, etc. His black tea is twelve pauls a pound; his green tea sixteen pauls. Town- ley, in the Palazzo -Ferroni, S. Trinila, likewise sells English goods. One of the best Grocers is Caroli, Yia della Croce : his Levant-coffee is from twenty-two crazie to three pauls the pound ; his West-Indian coffee two pauls the pound. The best Silk-mercer is Borgogni, near the Piazza del Granduca. Florence silks are of various qualities; one sort being from nine to ten pauls the brac- cio ; another from six to seven ; and the slightest from three to five pauls, according to the weight. The best linen-drapers’ shops are * Anti-attrition grease may tic purchased f Every cup of coffee usually costs two of Gasperini for live pauls a pot. crazie ; every cup of chocolate something more. \CH. IV.] kept by Jews, near the Mercato in Magna Grsecia the ancients iced their cherries, figs, water-melons and many other fruits; and the moderns would do wisely by adopting the same plan.) Ice, or rather frozen snow, is four grains the rotolo ; iced water, two grains per quart; ices, in glasses, are- eight grains each; and ices in cakes, twelve grains each. The ( wines of Posilipo, Capri, and I Ischia, are palatable and whole- i some ; and cost about three ducats I and a half the barrel, which holds ! fifty-six caraffi, or pints. The wines of Proceda and Calabria are good: i and wholesome; and cost about four ducats and a half per barrel. The Sicilian wines likewise are good.* Fire-wood usually costs from twenty to twenty-two ducats the large canna ;*f and charcoal fifteen carlini the quintal. Wax- lights of the best quality, called Venice -candles, are about six carlini the pound ; and tallow candles twelve grains the pound in the shops, and eleven grains at the Fabbrica. Sig. Graindorges has, in the Largo del Gastello, an English Warehouse, which con- tains porter, ale; French, Spa- nish, and Portugal wines; excel- lent Lachrymae both white and red, Marsala, brandy, rum, Hol- lands, liqueurs, gunpowder, hy- son, and black tea ; Durham mus- * Some of Ibe best Calabrian and Sicilian wines are those of Piedimonte, Mongibello, 5. Eufemia, Marsala, and Siragusa. Good Ma- laga may frequently be met with; and is sold by the rubbio, which contains about sixteen English quarts. f The large canna contains sixty-four pal- mi ; it being a rule to have the canna square every way. cb. v.] NAPLES— PRICE OF iard ; English writing-paper, pens, and pencils ; fish sauces ; court- plaster ; English cheese ; curry- powder ; anti - attrition grease; English razors, saddles and bri- dles ; James’s powder, Epsom and Cheltenham salts, soda-powders, spirit of hartshorn, and spirit of lavender. Strong’s British Ware- house, No. 1, Strada-Molo, near the Fontana-Medina, contains se- veral of the same articles ; and Terry, in the Slrada-Toledo, sells English writing-paper, pens, elas- tic soles, and a considerable va- riety of other English goods. Pa- turle and Co. at No. 329, Strada- Toledo, have a large assortment of French silks, velvets, gauzes, lace, shawls, ribands, and almost every article manufactured at Lyons. Toro, at No. 12, Strada 3. Francesco di Paola, is an ex- pedient Shoemaker. Cardon and (Co. at No. 209, Strada di Chiaja, rare good Milliners and Dress-Ma- [ikers, as likewise is Mademoiselle I Houlemont, at No. 29, VicoLun- go San Matteo, dirempetto La Trinita de Spagnuoli. Naples is i celebrated for its silks, gauzes, tribands, coral and tortoise-shell manufactures, soap, essences ; and especially for its silk stock- ings, made at Sorrento, which are remarkably strong. Silks for Ladies’ dresses are usually sold [according to their weight: com- (raon silks are of various qualities; Jthat called Battavia (two palmi land a quarter wide), is twenty- four carlini the canna — that call- led Ormisino (four palmi wide), is 1 from twenty-four to twenty-eight ^ carlini the canna* — that called VCattivella (seven palmi wide), is from thirty-two to forty carlini 'the canna. Richer silks, called the King’s, and sold at the Fab - wrica reale , in the Strada-Toledo, VARIOUS ARTICLES. 387 are more costly. Thin ell-wide silk, called Tajita, is also sold at this shop for about twenty carlini the canna. Cottone c setta is strong, warm, cheap, and said to wash well. Silk stockings cost from sixteen to twenty-five car- lini the pair, according to their weight and quality. Common silks, and Cottone e setta , are sold in the streets near the Largo del Castclio, and in the Strada Sedile di Porto. Naples is like- wise famous for musical instru- ment strings in general, and harp strings in particular. There is a circulating Library and Reading Room in Strada S. Giacomo, No. 19, near the Strada Toledo, and Sig. Borel has a large col- lection of books for sale, near the Church of Trinita Maggiore. Sig. Angelo Trani has an excellent Stationer’s Shop in the Largo del Palazzo ; and Sig. Luigi Tisi Pas- cuzzi, opposite to the Fontana di Monte Oliveto, is a good Coach- maker, and an honest man. Dr, Kissock, an English Phy- sician, resides at Naples ; as do Mr. Roskilly, an English Sur- geon, and Mr. Reilly, an English Apothecary, who sells English medicines. One of the most ce- lebrated Music Masters is Sig. Lanza, who charges a piastre au hour ; and the most celebrated Dancing Master is Sig. Formichi, who charges the same. For boxes at the Theatres there is a fixed price ; beyond which nothing can be demanded for admission. A box, in the third row, at the Teatro di S. Carlo, usually costs five piastres ; in the fourth row, four piastres; and in the fifth row, three piastres; and seats in the parterre , where La- dies may go without the smallest impropriety, cost six carliui each. 388 APPENDIX. [ch. r \ « A box in the third row, at the Teatro del Fondo, usually costs three piastres ; and in the fourth row, two piastres, or, at most, two and a half. Seats in the par- terre are five carlini each. The Fondo is better calculated, both for seeing and hearing, than is S. Carlo. A good box at the Teatro de’ Fiorentini may be procured for fifteen carlini" — at the Teatro della Fenice, for twelve carlini— and at the Teatro di S. Carlino, for ten carlini.* The Victory Hotel, kept by Mar- tinzer, is a very good one. ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF LET- TER-COURIERS AND PROCACCI. Sunday , arrive letters from France, Italy, and Germany. In the afternoon goes the Courier of Cilento. Monday and every other day, Sunday excepted, arrive and go the Courier and Procaccio of Sa- lerno, and the Courier of Pa- lermo. Tuesday, arrive letters from Bari, Lecce, Foggia, Lucera, and Manfredonia : likewise the Pro- caccio of Melfi, Nocera, Mater- domini, and Sanseverino. In the evening go letters to Italy, Ger- many, and Great Britain. Wednesday, arrive the Pro- cacci of Rome and Cilento : and on Wednesday go the Procaccio of Melfi, and the Courier of Pa- lermo. k Thursday, arrive letters fron tt Spain, Italy, France, Germany l Great Britain, Messina, Palermo ® Malta, and Calabria ; Basilicata Sora, and Campo-basso : likewise the Procaccio of Bari, Lecce. , Foggia, Lucera, Abruzzi, Gala- c bria, Basilicata, Sora, andCampo basso. Friday night goes the Procac- cio to Rome. Saturday morning arrives the 1 Procaccio of Nocera, M.aterdo mini, and Sanseverino ; and Sa- turday go the Procacci of Bari. Lecce, Abruzzi., Foggia, Basili-i cata, Sora, and Campo-basso;; and the letters for Sora and Cam- po-basso. At night go the Pro- cacci of Calabria and Nocera, Materdomini and Sanseverino, Bari, Lecce, Abruzzi, Foggia, Ba- silicata, Sora, and Campo-basso; and the letters for Sora and Cam- po-basso. Alt night go the Pro- cacci of Calabria and Nocera, Materdomini, Sanseverino, and Monte-Sarchio. At flight like- wise go letters for Italy, Messina, Calabria, Palermo, and Malta ,( Bari, Tarento, Lecce, Lucera, Foggia, Basilicata, and Abruzzi. During summer the Procacci set out on the Friday night in- stead of the Saturday morning. On the first Saturday in every month go letters for Ragusa and Constantinople. * Washerwomen at Naples commonly charge for washing and ironing as follows: — Sheets, per pair . . . grains 12 Pillowcase . . . .2 Tablecloth ..... 6 Napkin and Towel, each . . .1 Kitchen-apron .... 1 Shirt .6 Shift 5 Drawers ...... 4 Sleeping waistcoat .... 4 Nightcap 3 Petticoat. ..... 6 Corset ... • . • • 6 Neckcloth 2 Pocket-handkerchiefs, per dozen . 12 Stockings per pair, if silk . . 4 A plain white- dress . . . .25 A frill ...... 5. A muslin cap, if bordered with lace 5 Stockings per pair, if cotton . . 2 In the Strada-Viltoria, No. 38, there is a good Laundress, by name Laslrucci : but her charges are high. She speaks English and French. ch. v.] ITALY— PIANO M SORRENTO, etc. 389 Letters for Great Britain must be franked ; and the price is fif- teen grains for every single letter. .Letters for France must be frank- ed ; and the price is ten grains for every single letter. The office for franking letters is open every day, Sunday ex- cepted, from nine till twelve in the morning, and from four till five in the afternoon. Tuesday and F riday are the best days for franking letters addressed to Great Britain ; and Thursday is the only day on which letters from Great Britain are received. .PIANO DI SOU BENTO. Price of Lodging-houses. The price of Lodging-houses depends on the term for which they are taken, and also on the season of the year. During sum- mer, from eighty to a hundred .ducats per month are demanded ifor the large Yilla-Marisca— from (sixty to seventy ducats per month ifor the large apartment in the iVilla-Spinelii — sixty ducats per month for the Villa -Starace — (from sixty to eighty ducats per month for the large apartment in the Palazzo-Gocomella ; and from forty to fifty ducats for the small apartment— sixty ducats per month for the upper apartment in the Villa Correale ; and more for the ;lower apartment, if a consider- able number of beds be required. jSraall apartments, calculated to jaccommodate a Lady and her j Servant, or a single Man, may | always be procured for fifteen I ducats per month ; and sometimes ifor two-thirds of that sum. Plate Jland linen are included in these ■ prices. AVERAGE PRICE OF PROVISIONS, ETC. Excellent beef (prime pieces), from twenty to twenty-four grains the rotolo — excellent veal, from twenty-four to thirty grains— de- licious pork, from fourteen to six- teen grains — excellent hams, pigs’ cheeks, and bacon, from twenty- four to thirty grains— excellent butter, sixty grains— bread of the best quality (which is brought daily from Gastel-a-mare) , seven grains — macaroni, from ten to twelve grains — fish, from ten to forty grains, according to its qua- lity— fruit from two to four grains — clean ice, or, properly speak- ing, frozen snow, to mix with wine, two grains— and snow for icing liquors, one grain and a half —excellent salad-oil, about thirty grains the measure — excellent milk, three grains the measure, which is nearly an English quart — wine of Sorrento, per caraffa, three grains — wine of Capri, if it come direct from that Island, about thirty carlini the barrel — charcoal, from twelve to fifteen carlini the quintal— and fire-wood, seventy carlini the small canna. Sorrento and its Piano are fa- mous for delicious honey, clotted cream, and a dish called, in De- vonshire, junket : and (what seems extraordinary) the Sorren- tines give it a similar name. Quails, during the month of Sep- tember, are particularly good, plentiful, and cheap in this coun- try ; but poultry is always scarce, and seldom good ; fine fish is like- wise scarce in the Piano di Sor- rento ; though attainable almost every evening at S. Agata, whi- ther it is brought from the Gulph of Salerno during the day, m or- 2l2 APPENDIX. m der to be sent to Naples at mid- night.* Families who remove from Na- ples to the Sorrentine shore, would do well to take with them tea, sugar, wax candles, soap, and cheese. Neither brandy nor rum, nor the wines of Spain, Portugal, and France, can be purchased at Sorrento : but boats go daily thence, and also from the Piano to Naples; and every Master of a boat may be trusted to execute commissions, and even to bring letters and money, for Foreigners. The Sorrento boats, and those belongingto the Marina Grande of the Piano, set out soon after day-break, and return be- tween three and four o’clock every afternoon, weather permit- ting. The Meta boats go more irregularly ; there being, at times, a dangerous surf upon that beach. The price paid by the Sorrentines for going to Naples in a public boat, is six grains per head; and the best method of conveying a Family from Naples to Sorrento, is to hire one of these public boats, and embark about mid- day ; at which time the wind is usually favourable. A Mariner, by name Epifanio, who frequent- ly commands the boats belonging to the Marina of the Piano, is re- markably well-behaved, and an excellent Pilot : and a boat, com- manded by him, may be hired for three or four ducats, according to its size ; and he may generally be * A fish called hy the Sorrentines Morena may frequently be procured at S. Agata. This fish was highly prized by the ancient Ro- mans; some of whom, in order to augment its hulk and flavour, fed it with the flesh of their Slaves. Particularly strong Silk Stockings may be met with at llie Molo at Naples, from ten in the morning till twelve, every day, Sundays ex- cepted. Letters put into the Sorrento Post-Office go perfectly safe to Naples : and letters addressed' either to Sorrento, or any of the Villas in the Plain, are delivered with punctuality. A large Fa- mily, if economical, might live comfortably at Sorrento for four hundred pounds per annum. f Doctor Gangiani, a well-edu- cated Neapolitan Physician, re- sides in this- town; and occupies the house once inhabited hy the Sister of Torquato Tasso. I will now close my account of the average prices of necessaries- and luxuries in France and South- ern Italy, by the following com- parative view of Family-expenses in various parts of the Conti- nent. Generally speaking, a French franc (usually worth about ten- pence) will go as far in France as does a shilling in England : a Tuscan paul (usually worth about five-pence) will go as far in Tus- cany as does a franc in France : a Roman paul (usually worth about four-pence) will go as far in the Ecclesiastical territories as does a Tuscan paul in Tuscany : and a carlino of the Kingdom of Naples (usually worth about three-pence) will go as far in the Neapolitan dominions as does a Roman Paul at Rome. purchased, for a moderate price, at the manu- factory of Don Filippo Castellano, in the Piano di Sorrento: and excellent Gauze, for Mos- quito-nets, may be purchased very cheap at Sorrento. f Washerwomen here are particularly mo- derate in their charges. CHAPTER VI Route from Genera to Chamhery —from Chamhery over the Mont Cenis to Turin— New Road made by Napoleon— Passage of Mont Genevre— Route from Nice through Genoa to Pisa — from Leghorn through Pisa to Florence — from Pisa through Lucca and Pistoja to Florence — From Pisa to Modena — Expense of travelling en voiturier from Lucca through Pistoja. to Florence — Price charged by Voiturins for conveying luggage from Florence to Rome— Lascia- Passare — Route from Florence through Siena to Rome — from Florence through Perugia to Rome — -from Genoa through Bologna, Rimini, Sinagalia, Ancona, Lorelto, and Terni, to Rome — from Milan through Bergamo, Verona, Vicenza, and Padua, to Venice, Bologna, and Flo- rence— -from Milan to Bologna, through Piacenza, Parma, Reggio, and Modena — from Milan to Turin — from Aoste to Turin— -from Turin over the Maritime Alps to Nice— from Turin over the Boclietta to Genoa — from Rome to Naples — Passports — Modes of dividing this journey — Buona-mano usually given to a Voiturier — -Route en voiturier from Pisa to Massa and Carrara— -from Rome to Florence through Perugia^ — Caution against travelling through Perugia to Rome during the great Heats — Route en voiturier from Calais to Rome, during winter — from Florence through Siena to Rome — from Rome to Naples — Passports — Route from Florence through Bologna, Venice, Vienna, Prague, and Dresden, to Hamburgh — from Florence through Mantua, and by the Tyi’ol to Augsburg and Wurtzburgh — and, during summer, from Rome through Florence and Milan by the Simplon to Geneva, and' over the Jura Alps to PoKgny, Dijon, Melon, Paris, and Boulogne — -and likewise, during summer, from Florence to Venice, Milan, Turin, and over Mont Cenis to Pont-de-Beauvoisin — Passports. ROUTE FROM GENEVA TO CHAM- BERY. 2 Eluiset 2 Frangy — Two good inns. lg Mionas Rumilly — A small village, placed at the junction of the Seran and the Nephe. Inn, Les Trois Jtuis. If Athens 1’A Aix-les-Bains— formerly called Aqua- Graliana. The mineral waters of Aix are in high repute; and its Baths (supposed to have been constructed by the ancient Romans) were re- paired by the Emperor Gralian. Best inn, La Cite a — This town, anciently called Se- ga sium, is watered by the Doria; and was once defended by the strong Fortress of La Brnnelta, which is now destroyed; but Ihere still re- mains near the town, a triumphal Arch, erected by Cotus, the monarch of the Cottian Alps who resigned his sceptre to Augustus, In the valleys, between the base of Cenis and Susa, the inhabitants are afflicted wilh goitres; which they attribute to the chill the throat con- tinually receives in consequence of the excessive coldness of the water ; which is, generally speaking, the only beverage they can command : neither can they afford to purchase clothes sufficient to defend them from the rigours of their climate; nor any sustenance, except bread, chesnuts, and the fish of the lakes and torrents; nay, even salt, the only cordial within their reach, cannot he universally attained, on account of the heavy tax laid upon it. 1 'h S. Georgio 1 S. Antonino 1% Avigliano 1 i Rivoli Turin- — The road between Susa and Turin is, generally speaking, a de- scent; and, in its approach to the latter town, passes through a rich country, fertilized by canals, which distribute the waters of the Doria. Near Turin this road is heavy. The approach to Turin, by way of Rivoli, ‘ is handsome f 33J£ posts. PASSAGE OF MONT GENEVRE. The distance from Briancon to Mont Genevre is three leagues ; and the road recently made un- der the direction of the Cav. Gio- vanni Fabbroni, over this mo un- ten louis-d’or, from Lans-le-Bourg toNovalesa. f An extra half post is paid on entering and on quitting Turin. CH . ti.] ITALY— PASSAGE OF MONT GENEYRE. tain, traverses a forest of pines, firs, and larches; not, however, by means of long and beautiful winding galleries, like those of the Simplon and Cenis, but by short and numerous turns, resem- bling a corkscrew, like those of the Col di Tenda. Forests of larches crown the heights above the plain of Mont Genevre, which exhibits an extraordinary sight in the Alps, namely, fields of rye and oats, seldom unproductive, though frequently injured by the severity of the climate ; and here, during the month of May, when Cenis still wears his winter man- tle, spring puts on her gayest dress, and exerts her utmost ac- tivity: Travellers, however, who pass the Mont Genevre, should re- collect that Bears are more com- mon here than on Cenis. The plain is not so extensive as that of the last-named mountain ; but contains a village, and a Convent for the reception of Travellers. From Mont G encore to Cesanne is two leagues — from Cesanne to : Sestrieres, four leagues- — the de- scent from Sestrieres to Fenes - trelles , four leagues —and at the | latter village there is a tolerable Inn. The double Fort of Fenes- trelles merits notice, both with respect to its construction and its situation. Hence to Pignerol is . eight leagues — from Pignerol to None , four leagues and a half — and from None to Turin the same distance. None contains a toler- able Inn. 395 carriages through France to Italy without crossing the great Alps : and it will likewise be a less cir- cuitous route than those hitherto frequented. I have already men- tioned in the former part of this work (page 105), the present state of the new road between Genoa and Pisa : and I will now add, that from Nice to Mentone, and again from Savona to Genoa, there is a passable road for car- riages : but the intermediate spaces are only practicable for mules. Inns may be found at Mentone, San Remo, Oneglia, Albenga, and Savona ; and it is a very short day’s journey for a mule from each of these towns to the other. 6 Mentone J l Ventimiglia 3 San Remo 5 Oneglia 4 Alassio 4 1 Finale 3$ Savona 4% Voltri 3 i Genoa — The Gates of this city are al- ways shut one hour alter sunset.* 3 Recco Rap alio Chiavari 2% Bracco \'l Mattarana 1 1 Borghetto 3 Spezia 2\ Sarzana Vk Lavenza 1 Massa 1 Pietra-Santa 1 Via Reggio 1 Torretla 1 Pisa — Between Torretta and Pisa Tra- — - veilcrs cross the Serchio in a ferry. 59£ posts. route from leghorn, through PISA, TO FLORENCE. ROUTE FROM NICE, THROUGH GENOA, TO PISA. Should the carriage- road ever be finished from Nice to Genoa, it will enable Travellers to go in Pisa La Fornacette Castel del Boseo La Scala— Inn, La Posla, and very un- comfortable. Ambrogiana — Inn, La Posta, and very uncomfortable. La Lastra Firenze — The whole road from Leg- horn to Florence is excellent, and An extra half post is raid, on entering and on quitting Genoa. 3,96 APPENDIX. [CH. VI. almost totally exempt from hills: the inns are bad : but this is of little consequence to persons who go post; as the journey does not occupy more than ten hours with post horses. Persons who travel en voiturier, and sleep upon the road, generally stop at Capretla; which is about mid-way between Pisa and Florence; and where the Inn is belter than those at La Scala ' and Ambrogiana* 8 posts. ROUTE FROM PISA, THROUGH LUC- CA AND PISTOJA TO FLORENCE. \\ Lucca — An extra half post is paid on going from Pisa to Lucca ; and an extra half post on quitting Lucca. 2 Borgo-a-Buggiano \% Pistoja 1% Prato 1^ Firenze. 8 posts. ROUTE FROM PISA iO MODENA. 5 Pistoja i Piastre 1 S. Marcello--The Inn here is tolerably good, and pleasantly situated on a hill. 1 Piano-Asinalico. % Bosco-Lungo — Last post of Tuscany, 1 Pieve di Pelago— First post of the Mo- denese. 1 Batigazzo 1 Monte-Cenere % Paullo % Serra de’ Mazzoni 1 S.Venanzio % Formigine % Modena Travellers are frequently charged one post from S. Venanzio to Formigine, and the same from ‘ Formigine to Modena. li)% posts. The journey from Pistoja to Modena was performed with ease by an English Gentleman during the month of November, and without an avant-courier to order * Persons who wish to go either from Leghorn or Pisa to Rome, without passing through Florence, may save three posts by taking the direct l’oad through Poggibonsi to Siena. This journey en ooiturier occupies about six days and a half; and Voiturins usually convey an English carriage, contain- ing tour persons, from Leghorn to Rome, for about sixteen louis-d’or. The direct road from Leghorn, through Pisa, to Poggibonsi, is as follows : Posts 5, to La Scala. horses, within twenty-four hours: or, to speak more precisely, he was on the road travelling seven- teen hours and a half, and stop- ped for changing horses, etc., three hours. The ascents are judiciously formed; the road is good, and well defended from danger ; but the accommodations are bad. The distance from Modena to Mantua is five posfs and a half. Voiturins will take an English post-chaise, carrying three or four persons, from Lucca through Pis- toja to Florence, in one day and a half, for nine scudi, buona - mano not inclusive, and they will likewise convey luggage from Flo- rence to Rome for two pezzi-duri the hundred weight. ROUTE FROM FLORENCE, THROUGH SIENA, TO ROME. Previous to undertaking this journey, it is advisable for British subjects, if they travel in their own carriage, to apply to the Bri- tish Consul-General at Rome for a Lascia-passare for Ponte-Cen- tino, and another for the Porta del Popolo at Rome. 1 S. Casciano— A post-royal. A third horee. 1 Tavernelle — A third horse. 1 Poggibonsi — Best inn, 11 Lione Bosso. The road from Florence hither is hilly, and, in general, paved. 1 Castiglionc.ello--A third horse. Road good. 1 Siena — Best inn, L’Aquila Nera, al- ready mentioned. Road hilly, but good-t 1 Montarone Posts 1, to Cammiano. 2, to Poggibonsi. f Travellers w ould do wisely to take wine and water from Siena, for the rest ©f their journey, both being excellent here, and un- wholesome in most of the succeeding towns-. It is likewise advisable to take fruit from Siena. On entering this city Travellers are obliged to leave the keys of their trunks at the Gate, and pay one lira; for which sum the keys are brought to the opposite gate, and delivered up when their owners quit Siena. CH. VI.] 1 Buonconvento— Road from Siena hither excellent ; though, near Buoncon- vento, there is a very steep hill. The Albergo del Cavalletto, in the last- named town, contains good beds; but the rooms are dirty. 1 Torrenieri— A third horse to Poderina, and the same returning. 1 Poderina 1 Kicorsi— A third horse to Radicofani. i Radicofani— -A large and good Inn, al- ready mentioned. Road from Buon- convenlo hither excellent, hut hilly. i Ponte-Cenlino— -This is the first Custom- house in the Ecclesiastical territo- ries : and Travellers who are not provided with a Lascia passare for Ponte-Centino meet with an un- pleasant detention here, and pay for having their baggage plum hod. The road from the Post-house on Radi- cofani to the torrent at the base of the mountain is excellent ; but thence it traverses six or seven times the bed of the torrent; which bed consists of large loose stones occa- sioning continual jolts; and beyond Toricelli, this torrent (as has been already mentioned), is, after rain, sometimes dangerous : but, in case of necessity. Travellers may sleep at Toricelli.* 1 Aquapendente— The road beyond the torrent, to this town, is excellent; and the Inn here tolerably good. % San-Lorenzo Nuovo- A good inn, already mentioned. Road excellent. 1 Bolsena— Road excellent. A third horse to Montefiascone. 1 Montefiascone-— Road good, hut billy. 1 Viterbo.— A good inn, already mention- ed. A third horse to the mountain. 1 La Montagna— Road good, but hilly. 1 Ronciglione— Two bad Inns. Road good. S Monterosi— -Two Inns ; La Posta the best. Road good. A Baccano— Inn, La Posta, and tolerably good. 1 Storta. Ro/nfl—The road between Monterosi and the Ponte-Molle, from the spot where 23 the Lorelto and Siena routes join, is occasionally rough; but from the Ponte-Molle to Rome, excellent. Tra- vellers who are provided with a Lascia passare for the Porta del Popolo, have no trouble with respect to Custom-house Officers ; but per- sons not so provided, are obliged to drive, in the first instance, to the Custom-house ; and give from five to ten Pauls, in order to save their Luggage from a tedious examination. An extra quarter of a post is charged on entering Rome ; and an extra half post on quitting it. 397 ROUTE FROM FLORENCE, THROUGH PERUGIA, TO ROME. 1% Ponte a Sieve— A post-royal. 1% Incisa 2 Levane 2 Arezzo— Inn, La Posta. Castiglion Florentine % Camuscia— - Inn, La Posta. IX Case del Piano 1 Magiooe— A third horse to Perugia, and vice versa. 1% Perugia— Inn, La Cotvna, and good. The road from Florence to Perugia is excellent; unless it be during wet seasons ; when the Lake of Thrasy- menus sometimes overflows, and ren- ders this route dangerous. 1 La Madonna degli Angeli— A third horse to Perugia, but not vice versa. 1 Foligno— Inn, La Posta, and tolerably good. 1 Le Vene 1 Spoleto— Inn, La Posta, and good. A third horse to Strettura, and vice versa. The mountain of La Somma, over which the road passes, is the highest point in this part of the Apennine. La Somma is supposed to derive its name from a temple de- dicated to Jupiter-Summanus, which stood on its summit. 1 Strettura I Terns— Inn, La Posta, and very good. 1 Narni — A third horse from Narni to Otricoli, and vice versa. 1 Otricoli— This town stands about two miles distant from- what is supposed to have been the ancient Otriculum, which was seated on the Tiber. % Borghet to— Between this village and Otri- coli the road crosses the Tiber on a fine Bridge, erected during the reign of Augustus, and repaired by Sixtus V. A third horse from Borghetto to Otricoli, hut not vice versa. % Civita-Caslellana— La Croce bianca is a tolerable inn, though small, i Nepi— Inn not comfortable as a sleeping place. % Monterosi 1 Baccano 1 Storta Roma— The road from Perugia to Rome — — is excellent. 271 posts. ROUTE FROM GENOA, THROUGH BOLOGNA, RIMINI, S1N1GACL1A, ANCONA, LORETTO, AND TERN I, TO ROME. 3 Campo-Maione 4 Voltaggio 4 Novi ITALY— ROUTES. * The price of oxen per pair, for aiding Ponte-Cenlino op the post-horses to draw heavy carriages from fani, is sixty baiocclvi. mountain of Rndico- 2 M 398 APPENDIX. [cn. vi. 3’4 Torlona—La Croce bianca is a good inn. Z\ Voghera i \ Casteggio 1M Broni— Best Inn, La Posta. 3 Castel S. Giovanni— Between this spot and Piacenza the road traverses the bed of the Trebia. 2 Piacenza Z Fiorenzuola — The Alter go della Posta is a good inn. I S. Donnino 3 Caslel-Guelfo a Parma 1 S. Ilario 1 Reggio 1 Rubiera 1 Modena i% Samoggia 1% Bologna— Between Samoggia and this citj there is a bridge thrown across the Reno. Bologna is famous for quinces. Ig S. Niccolo— The road crosses the Savena on a bridge. lg Imola — This town, the Forum Cornelii of the Romans, is seated on the an- cient Via Emilia , which leads from Bologna to Rimini. 1 Faenza— Between Imola and this town the road crosses the Santerno on a bridge. Faenza, anciently Faventia , was heretofore celebrated for earth- enware, to which it gave the name of Faience. Part of the road be- tween S. Niccoli and Faenza is, dur- ing wet weather, dangerous. 1 Forli— -Anciently Forum Livii. The cupola of the Cathedral, painted by Cignani, and the Chapel of the Madonna del Furco, together with several pictures in other Churches, merit notice. The Square is one of the finest in Italy ; and the Post- house is a tolerable inn. VJ, Cesena— The road, previous to entering this town, crosses the Savio on a magnificent modern bridge. Cesena contains a curious Library belong- ing to the Minor Conventuals, and a colossal statue of Pius VI . Be- tween two and three miles from this town, the road crosses the Pisatello, which flows into the Fiumecino, sup- posed to have been anciently called the Rubicon. Some authors, how- ever, assert that the Pisatello itself was the stream which divided Cisal- pine Gaul from Italy, i Savignano — Anciently Compitum. I Rimini — The road between this town and Fano is the ancient Via Flaminia. Rimini, the Araminium of the An- cients, and once a considerable city, still exhibits remains of former mag- nificence. The Bridge over the Ma- xecohia, originally the Arminum, * The Villa, once inhabited by the late Queen of England, is about a mile from Pesaro: and in her pleasure grounds are two Moaqco?uts, the one erected to the appears to have been either built or j! repaired by Augustus and Tiberius: j it is situated at the junction of the > Via Emilia with the Via Flaminia; 1 and particularly merits observation. ' On quilting Rimini, the Pesaro road ? passes under, a Triumphal Arch, i erected in honour of Augustus. Ravenna, the seat of Empire under ij Theodoric, is only four posts distant i lj from Rimini, and merits notice, on :! | account of its antiquities, and like- ; wise because it contains the tomb of Dante. Best inn, La Fontana. \\ Cattolica— Previous to arriving at this town, the road crosses the Conca on a bridge; but, when the Conca rises high inconsequence of rain, this road 1 is dangerous. Between Cattolica and ! Rimini are ruins of the ancient city 1 of Conca, inundated by the sea; and at a distance, on the left, is the little Republic of San-Mar ino. 1 p’^^ro-The great square,which is hand- some, contains a statue of Urban VIII. Several antiquities and some fine paintings may be found in this town. | The figs of Pesaro are deemed the Rest in Italy; and the Theatre is 1 remarkably elegant.* t Fane— The modern name of this town seems to he derived from a Fano , or Temple of Fortune, which once > stood here. The ancient name, ac- cording to Vitruvius, was Colonki Fanestris. The objects best worth notice at Fano are the remains of the triumphal Arch of Constantine — the Library — the Theatre— and the Cathedral, which contains paint- ings by Domenichino. The Inn here is tolerably good. 1 MarotSa— Between Fano and Marotta the road crosses the Metro, anciently Metaurus, celebrated for the defeat and death of Asdrubal, during the 6econd Punic war. I Sinigaglia — So called from its Founders the Galli-Senones. This town is enlivened by a celebrated Fair, dur- ing the last week of July. 1 Case-Bruciate .1# Ancona— So called from being built in Sn angle resembling an elbow. This is a commercial town, with a fine Har- bour, and a magnificent Quay. The triumphal Arch erected by the Roman senate, in honour of the Em- peror Trajan, for having improved the Harbour of Ancona at his own expense, peculiarly merits notice; as it is finely proportioned, well pre- j| served, and composed of larger blocks j of marble than we find in any other '! ancient Roman edifice. Clement SIR made Ancona a Free-Port. memory of her Father, and the other to the , memory of her Daughter, the amiable and ever to be lamented Princess Charlotte of Wales. CB. vi.] ITALY-LORETTO, BERGAMO, VERONA. 399 Oblong shell-fish called Bellari, or Dattili del Mare, are found alive in large stones on this coast : they were deemed a great delicacy by the ancient Romans, and are, according to Pliny, soluminous, that they shine in the mouth of the person who eats them, lg Osimo 1 Loretto — The road between Ancona and Loretto traverses a beautiful plain intersected by the rivers Musone and Aspido. Few of the original treasures of the celebrated Santis sima Casa of Loretto now remain ; but the li- beral donations of the Bonaparte fa- mily, and other wealthy Roman Catholics, have, in some degree, compensated for the loss sustained, during the Pontificate of Pius VI., by the Church of the Madonna at Lo- retto. This Church is magnificent; and in its centre, immediately under the cupola, stands the Santissima Casa, cased with Carrara marble finely sculptured; and containing a picture of the Nativity, by Annibale Caracci, and a Holy Family, by Ra- phael; together with numerous trea- sures of various descriptions. The Piazza, fronting the Church of the Madonna, merits notice ; as does the subterranean Dispensary , which is furnished with three hundred Gal- lipots, painted after the designs of Raphael, or GiulioRomano. $ Reeanati ! ^ Sambucheto 1 Macerata — The Post-House here is a good inn. The country between Lo- retto and Macerata is beautiful, and richly cultivated ; and near the latter tow n are ruins of the city of Heloia- Ricina, built by Septimius Severus. Macerata is famous for artichokes. Toleutino — The Square in this town ex- hibits a well-preserved piece of an- cient Sculpture. After quitting To- lentino, the road traverses a part of the Apennine. i Valcimara— The number of torrents which issue from the eastern side of the Apennine is so considerable, that Travellers should not venture to go by way of Ancona and Loretto to Rome, after recent inundations, caus- ed either by hard rain, or the melt- ing of snow, j Ponte-la-Trave | Seravalle j Case-Nuove. 1 |f Foligno j Roma — See the Route from Florence | p through Perugia to Rome. & posts. >UTE FROM MILAN, THROUGH BERGAMO, BRESCIA, VERONA, ■VICENZA, AND PADUA, TO VE- NICE, BOLOGNA, AND FLO- RENCE. i% Colombarolo —The country from Milan hither is beautiful. 1 Vaprio X Osio i Bergamo-Near Canonica Travellers cross the Adda, anciently the Adua , in a ferry. TheBergamasco is highly cul- tivated, fertile, and populous; the town of Bergamo large, well fortified, and adorned with a handsome Catlke- dral , which contains paintings of the modern Venetian school : but the best pictures are an the Church of S. Ma- ria Maggiore. Principal inn, VAl- bergo Reale. Bergamo is called the birthplace ol Harlequin. This town is enlivened by a celebrated Fair, dur- ing the latter part of August, and the commencement of September; and its resident inhabitants amount to above thirty thousand persons. 1 Cavernogo 1 Palazzolo i% Ospedaletto 1 Brescia— The road from Bergamo hither traverses a rich plain at the foot of the Alps. Brescia is a considerable town, seated at the base of a moun- tain, between Ihe rivers Mella and Naviglio, and supposed to contain for- ty-five thousand inhabitants; its for- tifications are strong, and defended by a citadel. The Palazzo di Giustizva is a remarkable edifice, built partly in the Gothic, and partly in the Gre- cian style, and contains fine frescos, together with other good paintings. The Cathedral is a handsome mo- dern structure. The Churches of S. Nazaro al Carmine , and S. Afra, contain fine pictures of the Venetian school, as do several of the Palaces. The Mazzucchelli collection of medals, and the public Library, merit notice. The Theatre is hand- some; and Le due Torri is deemed the best inn. 1 % Ponte S. Marco. 1 Desenzano— After passing Ponte S. Marco, the road lies on the luxuriant margin of the Lago di Garda; whose waters resemble a little sea, and contain a fish called Carpione , which was deem- ed particularly delicious by ancient Epicures. The Lago di Garda, for- merly called LacusBenacus, is about thirty-five miles in length; and, where widest, fourteen in breadth : the Alps in great measure surround it, and the piclui'e it exhibits is beau- tiful. lJJ Castel-Nuovo IX Verona— On quitting the margin of tin’ Lago di Garda, the road enters th*; Veronese, which is one of the most fertile parts of Italy; abounding in corn, wine, oil, fruits, mulberry-trees, rice, etc. Verona, pleasantly situated on tiie Adige (anciently Atagis), and 400 APPENDIX [CH. VI, one of the oldest eities of Italy, is sup- posed to contain 50,000 inhabitants, including its suburbs. The fortifica- tions were constructed by San-Mi- cheli. Here is a Triumphal Arch , cnWeiPorla deiBorsari, anderected inthereignofGallienus ; and cm Am- phitheatre, supposed to have been built during the reign ofTrajan, and almost perfect. It contains 23,484 spectators commodiouslj seated ; and is composed of large blocks of marble without cement. Near this magnifi- cent monument of antiquity, is the modern Theatre, a fine structure, the entrance to which is by a beauti- ful portico, built by Palladio. The tombs of the Scaligeri Family me- rit notice, as does the Paluzzo del Consiglio, a noble edifice, built by San-Sovino. The Chiesa diS. Gior- gio contains a picture of the martyr- dom of that Saint, by Paolo Veronese; and the Church of S. Bernardino contains the celebrated Cappella- Varesca, by San-Miclieli. Verona gave birth to the Poets Catullus and ZCmi- lius Macros; the Historian Cornelius Nepos; Pliny the Elder; Vitruvius the celebrated Architect of the Au- gustan age; Paolo Veronese; and many other persons of distinguished abilities. The petrified fishes found in Monte Bolca, near Verona, arecurious. Prin- cipal inns, Le due Torn , and La Torre di Londra .* 1 Caldiero 1% Monte-Bello 1% Vicenza — From Verona hither the road is bordered by mulberry-trees inter- laced with vines; and exhibits a view of the Alps which divide Italy from Germany. Vicenza, anciently called Vicetta, is delightfully situated on the Bacchiglione, contains, including * About half a mile distant from the walls of Verona, in a Garden, once the Cemetery of a Francescan Convent, is a Sarcophagus, called the Tomb of Juliet ; and made of Verona marble; with a place for her head, a socket for a candle, and two holes for the admission of air. Juliet is supposed to have^ died in the year 1303, when Bartolomeo della Scala (or degli Scaligeri), was Lord of Verona : and Shakspeare probably intended to repre- sent one of the Scaligeri, hv his Escalus. The names of the rival families, whom our great Poet has immortalized, were Capelio, and Montechio: the tomb of the former stood in the Cemetery of the Francescan Church; and they had a palace in the town of Verona: they were highly favoured by the Scdigeri ; a circumstance which probably offended the Monlechi, a more ancient and aft! rent family than the other, and possessors of the Castle of Montechio (situated about fifteen miles from Verona), and likewise proprietors of a palace in the Veronetta. After the marriage and fray, Juliet came to the Francescan Con- vent, under pretence of confession ; and her its suburbs, above 30,000 inhabitants ; and is the birth-place of the celebra- ted Architect Palladio, who has adorn- ed it with his finest works; namely, the Olympic Theatre! ! the Basi- lica; and several Palaces in the town (where the House he once in- habited may still be seen); the trium- phal Arch leading to the Campo Marzo ; and the Church of the Ma- donna del Monte, not tar distant. The Rotonda of the Casa-Capra was likewise built by Palladio. Best inn, I due Rode, and very comfort- able. The w ine of Vicenza has the re- putation of being particularly whole- some ; and the climate, during sum- mer, is one of the best in northern Italy. l l 4 Slesega— The country from Verona hither is beautiful. 1 Padua— The Stella d’oro has been al- ready mentioned as a good inn : the Aquila d'oro likewise is a good one. 1% Dolo Vj, Fusina— Road from Milan hither excel- 1 lent. Venice — by water, five miles. Travellers who go by land to Fusina, 1 usually return by water to Padua; w' hence the distance is— toMonselice if Rorigo lj Poles ella 1 % Ferrara — A Procaccio goes twice a week i from Ferrara to Bologna, by water. ; 1^ Malabergo 1 Capodargine 1 Bologna 1% Pianoro — Hence to Lojano a third horse, or oxen, to every calesse: and for all the sharp ascents of this passage of the Apennine carriages which usually travel with three horses must have four, and carriages which usually confessor. Father Lorenzo (called, in the Com- pendia, from which this account is extracted. Leonardo of Reggio), gave her a powerful soporific; at the same time sending to inform her relations that she had been suddenly attacked bv illness; and as the soporilic took effect before their arrival, they thought her dead : consequently, she was not removed : from the Convent ; but immediately put into her colfin : and, according to a custom which still prevails, a lighted candle w as placed in the coffin, near her head; and, after the iunc- ral ceremony, the lid, according to usual prac- tice, was put on in private. Father Lorenzo, when resolved to administer the soporilic, sent a letter to Mantua, informing Romeo ot this resolution; but before the l:tter arrived, he heard the report of Juliet’s death, let! Mantua, scaled the W'all of the Cemetery be- longing to the Francescan convent, and swal- lowed the poison. Next day Bartolomeo degli Scaligeri, and the two rival families, assisted at the obsequies of the unfortunate Romeo and Juliet. ,, CH. vi.] ITALY — ROUTES. 401 travel with four horses must have six, beside oxen, lg Lojano 1 Filigare 1 Covigliajo 1 RJonte-Carelli — On going from Monle- Carclli to Covigliajo a third horse, or oxen. 1 Cafaggiuolo i Fonle Euona 1 Firenze. 42$ posts. i ROUTE FROM MILAN TO BOLOGNA, THROUGH PIACENZA, PARMA, REGGIO, AND MODENA. # Jg Melegnano Lodi. Inns, L’Albergo del Sole, 1 Trc Be, etc. ' lg Casal-Pusterlengo 2 Piacenza 12 Bologna — See “ Route from Genoa, through Bologna, Rimini, Sinagalia, Ancona, Loretto, and Ter ni, to Rome.” 1 18 & posts. ROUTE FROM MILAN TO TURIN. j lg Sedriano t Buffaiora 3 Novara — This is an episcopal city of high antiquity, and its Cathedral merits notice. Here are three inns, Les Trois Eois, Le Poisson d’Or, and Le Faucon. ig Orfengo lg Force lli — Between Novara and Vercelli the country is marshy, and the air unwholesome. Rice grows luxuri- antly here, and seems to he almost the only grain which is cultivated in this neighbourhood. Vercelli, seated at the confluence of the Cerva and the Sesia, is a considerable town ; and the Portico of its Cathedral merits notice. The principal inns are, Le Lion d’Or, and Les Trois Ruis. 1$ S. Germano 2g Cigliano 1% Rondissone 1 Chivasso ig Settimo lg Turin — Betwecft Settimo and Turin the road is excellent, and the country I * There are no relays of post horses at the Ihree first stations. j i There are no relays of post horses be- tween Coni and Nice ; therefore, on this road, t is necessary to travel en voiturier. I § Between Limone and Scarena it is fre- uently difficult to travel in a carriage. ** The Hotel des Etrangers (though not Ijientioned in the former part of this work), t .3 one of the best inns at Nice. I tt An extra quarter of a post is paid on fertile, well cultivated, and watered by the rivers Doria, Stura, Molone, Oreo, and Dora-Baltea, all of which . descend from the Alps. 18 posts. ROUTE FROM AOSTE TO TURIN.* 3g Chalillon 3$ Donas 3 lvrce 2g Caluse 1$ Chivasso 3 Turin. 17& posts. ROUTE FROM TURIN, OVER THE MARITIME ALPS, TO NICE. 2g Carignano 2\ Racconigi 1 g Savigliano 2% Centale Coni— ’Bast inn, La Posta.\ 1 Borgo S. Dalmazio 2\ Limone § 4 Tenda 2% Breglio 2g Saspello 2$ Scareno 2g Nice **— Persons going this road should provide wine for their journey at Turin. 27& posts. ROUTE FROM TURIN, OVER THE BQCCRETTA, TO GENOA. lg Truffarcllo lg Poirino lg Dusino Ig La Gambelta lg Asti— Inns, La Rosa Rossa, and 1 1 Leone d’Oro. ig Annone lg Feliciano 2& Alessandria — This town contains, besidr The Aihergo vecchio d’ltalia, al- ready mentioned, two inns, namely, 1 Tre Be and La Locanda d’Jnghil- terra.\\ 3g Novi § § 4 Voltaggio — A third horse for the passage of the Bocchetta.*** quitting Alessandria. (,§ A third and fourth horse all the year from Novi to Voltaggio, and vice versa ; to- gether with an extra charge of twenty-five centimes per horse, on account of the badness of the road. *** A third and fourth horse all the year from Voltaggio to Campo-Marone, and vice versa ; together with an extra charge of twenty-five centimes per horse, for Jhe passage of the Bocchetta. 2 m2 APPENDIX. 402 [CH. Yf. 4 Campo-Marone— Inn, La Posla. 3 Genoa — The journey from Alessandria, over the Bocchetta to Genoa, with post-horses, seldom occupies more than ten hours. 2?jj posts. ROUTE FROM ROME TO NAPLES. 1 Capua — At the barrier here, tour ducats are paid for every coach, or post- chaise; and two piastres for every open carriage on springs. 1 A versa 1 Naples — An extra half post is paid on entering and on quitting this city.* 20$ posts ; real distance, 19$ posts. Previous to undertaking this journey it is requisite for British Subjects to obtain passports from the British Consul-General, coun- tersigned at tiie Police-Office, and likewise by the Neapolitan Mi- nister at Rome. Passports originally granted by a French Ambassador must be signed by the French Minister resident at Rome before they are presented to the Neapolitan Mi- nister for his signature. 1 X Torre di mezza-via— Hence, to Rome, the charge is only one post and a quarter. i Albano $ Genzano— A third horse from Albano to Genzano (hut not vice versa ) ; and for a carriage drawn with either four or six horses, two in addition. I 1 n i i •1 Velletri Cisterna Torre de’ tre Ponti Bocca di Fiume Mesa Ponte Maggiore Terracina A third horse from Velletri to Genzano (hut not g vice versa ) ; and Js for a carriage 2 drawn hy either ;g four or six horses, ® two in addition. .5 The journey from c Velletri to Terre- (2 cina, usually oc- cupies from four to five hours, with post-horses. IX Fondi— A third horse in addition to every pair, from Fondi to Itri. 1 Itri 1 Mo la — From Mola to Itri a third horse, so far as the Cenotaph of Cicero. The price of this horse is ten grains. 1 Garigliano — The toll paid for every four- wheeled close carriage on springs, which crosses the Garigliano, is six carlini; and for every open carriage, four carlini. From Garigliano to S. Agata a third horse is added to every pair*. 5 S. Agata 1 Sparanisi — A third horse in addition to every pair, from Sparanisi to S. A- gata. Persons in robust health, who travel post from Rome to Naples, may, by setting out very early the first morning, reach Terracina be- fore the close of day; and again, by setting out very early the se- cond morning, they may reach Naples that night. If, however, ill health, short days, or any other cause, compel Travellers to sleep two nights on the road, the best plan is to go to Velletri the first day, to set out soon after sunrise on the second day, drive to Mola di Gaeta, sleep there; and on the third day, by setting out early, it is practicable to reach Naples at the common hour for dinner. By pursuing this plan Travellers pass the Pontine Marshes at the whole- somest time, namely, between nine in the morning and three in the afternoon. A light Carretclla, containing two persons only, with but little luggage, usually goes from Rome to Terracina in ten hours and a half ; and returns in nine hours — goes from Terracina to Naples in fourteen hours, and returns in ele- ven hours. ROUTE FROM NAPLES TO P^STUM. IX Torre del Annunziata— A post-royal; on account of which an extra half post is charged. IX Nocera IX Salerno — From Nocera to Salerno an ad- ditional horse to every pair. 1 Vicenza 1 Eboli 2X Pajstum, by way of Persano. 9X posts, including the post-royal. * Travellers, on entering Naples, are oh- Office ; neither can they, till their departure, Uged to deposit their passports at the Police- legally reclaim them. CH. VI.] ENVIRONS OF NAPLES. Posts. 1 from Naples to Caivano. 1 from Caivano to Caserta. 2 from Caserta to 3. Leucio. 1 from Naples to Pozzuoli. 1 from Pozzuoli to Fusaro, or Licola. 1 from Naples to Aslroni. 2 from Naples to Capo-di-Monte. 1 from Naples to Portici, La Favorita, or Torre del Greco. ROUTE, EN VOITURIER, FROM PI- SA TO MASSA AND CARRARA, WITH AN ENGLISH POST-CHAISE, DRAWN BY FOUR HORSES. Miles. Hours. Via-Reggio . . ... 19 6% Pietra-Santa . . n Massa ... 7 n Carrara . . . n ROUTE , EN VOITURIER , FROM ROME TO FLORENCE, THROUGH PERUGIA, WITH AN ENGLISH COACH DRAWN BY FOUR MULES. Hours. Monti-rosi .... 7 Civita-Casteliana . 32 Terni ..... 7^ Spoleto 52 Between Stret- tura and this town, to ascend the mountain of La Somma, we had two oxen in addition to our mules. Hours. Foligno 42 Perugia .... 52 To ascend the mountain on which Perugia stands, we had two oxen in addition to our mules. Hours. Torricella . . . 4% Camuscia .... 6 Arezzo 52 San-Giovanni ... 62 Firenze 7 It is deemed unwholesome to travel from Florence through Pe- rugia to Rome from the time when the great heats commence, till after the autumnal rains have fallen : and it is almost equally unwholesome to travel from Rome * Persons who wish to see the Cascade of Terni, and avoid sleeping at Torricella, where the inn is comfortless, should stop the first night at Civita-C-istellana , the 403 through Siena to Florence, during the great heals.* ROUTE, EN VOITURIER, FROM FLORENCE, THROUGH SIENA, TO ROME, WITH AN ENGLISH POST-CHAISE DRAWN BY THREE HORSES. Hours. Poggibonsi .... 7— First day. Siena 4 Boonconvento ... 4 S. Quirlco .... 3— Second day. La Sea la 3jfc Radicofani .... 3j£ Torricelli 22— Third day. S. Lorenzo-Nuovo . 32 Bolsena 2— From S. Lorenzo- Nuovo hither the road lies on the margin of the Lake of Bolsena ; the air of which has been already men- tioned as unwholesome. Hours. Montefiascone . . . 32— Fourth day. Viterbo .... 22 Monterosi .... 7— Fifth day. Foma 7 ROUTE, EN VOITURIER, FROM ROME TO NAPLES, WITH AN ENGLISH POST-CHAISE, DRAWN BY THREE HORSES. Hours. Velletri 6 -First day. Terracina .... 92— Second day. Fondi 2 S. Agata 6— Third day. Capua 32 Naples 32 On returning from Naples to Rome, British Travellers must have passports from their own Ambassador in the first-named city, countersigned at the Police- Office, and also by the Roman Consul: and it is likewise advis- able for persons who travel in their own carriage to endeavour to obtain from the British Con- sul-General at Rome a Lascia pass are for Terracina, and an- second at Terni, the third at Spoleio, the fourth at Perugia, the fifth at Camuscia, and the sixth at 5. Giovmni ; or the Lo~ canda del Plan della Foite. ITALY -ROUTES APPENDIX . 1 404 [CH. Vf. other for the Porta di S. Giovanni at Rome. Persons -who travel from Naples to Rome without having a Lascia passare for Ter- racina, are compelled, unless they go post, or hire horses of the Na- ples post -master for the whole journey, either to allow their trunks to he examined at Terra- cina, or to deposit four piastres for having them plumbed. ROUTE , EN VOTTUaiER , FROM CALAIS TO ROME, DURING THE , WITH AN Boulogne Montreuil Bernay Airaines Granvilliers Beauvais. Beaumont. Paris Montgeron Melun Montereau. .......... Sens ...... Joigny Auxerre Lucy-le-Bois Rouvray Saulieu Ernay La Roche Pot. ........ Chalons-sur-Saone. . . . Tournus Macon Huit Franche Lyon* La Verpellier LeTourduPinf Les Echelles. Chambery Montmellian Aiguehelle ........... S. J ean de Maurienne § . S. Michel.. Modane Lans-le-Bourg pid and heavy fall of snow upon Mont Cenis, it was found needful here to place the bodies of car- WINTER OF i Days „ Posts. 1st n i i 2d 7 i U 9 < 4th 8 5th 4 6th 5^ 7th e : Srh n 9th si idh About 6 ilth About 7 12th n 13th 8% 14th W 15th n 16th 5 i7th Ti i8th 4£ 13th 4 Owing to an ENGLJSH POST-CHAISE, DRAWN BY FOUR STRONG HORSES. The Yoiturin was Emery ; who charged, for the horses and two meals a day, with three good bed- rooms every night, for one master and two servants, a hundred and ten Louis-d’or; he defraying ail expenses, except the customary fees to Servants at Inns. Had this journey been undertaken at a more favourable season, Emery would not have demanded so high a price. Inns. Parker’s Hotel d’Angleterre. Le Renard d’Or. La Poste. La Poste. Hotel d’Angleterre. ( a ) L’Ecu de Fi ance. Le Grand Cerf. Hotel deMontanhan. La Ville de Lyon. La Gallere. (a) Le Lion d’Or. Hotel de 1 ’Ecu Les Cinq Minenrs. Hotel de Beaune. Hotel des Diligences, (a) La Poste. Hotel de S. Nicolas. Hotel de la Croix Blanche, (a) Les Boas Enfans. (a) Les TroisFaisans. Hotel du Sauvage. Hotel de 1 ’Europe. Le Fa i] con. («) Hotel de 1 ’Europe. A country inn, not had. Le Soleil. La Poste. La Poste. Inn on the hill, (n) Hotel de 1 ’Union. La Poste. Hotel de Londres. Hotel du Lion d’Or. Hotel Royal. riages in traineaux so far as Mo* laret ; though the wheels were drawn over the mountain without being taken off their axles. Yoi- ( a ) The Inns marked thus are unfit for sleeping places. * Beyond Lyon the inns do not furnish tea. j French and Savoyard Frontier Custom houses between Le Tour du Pin and Les Echelles. § A tolerable inn, called L’ Hotel du petit S. Julien, between S. Jean de Maurienne and S. Michel. ITALY — ROUTES. 405 CH. TI.] turins pay from twenty to thirty francs for conveying the body of of a carriage, in this manner, from Lans-le-Bourg to Molaret, or Susa : and Travellers, to avoid stopping at the former place, while their carriages are remount- ed, usually proceed to the latter. Carriages, generally speaking, are five hours in ascending in a train - eau from Lans-le-Bourg to La Grande Croix ; and five hours in descending from La Grande Croix to Susa. Days. Posts. 20Lh La Grande Croix 8 Susa 21st S. Amhrogio Turin 22d n Villa Nuova Asti 23d Alessandria Tor Iona* 00 24th Broni 25th n Castel S. Giovannif Fiorenzuola 5 Borgo S. Donino . . . . . 26th 5 S. Ilario Rubiera 27lh 4 Castel Franco § Bologna . . 28lh 5 Lojano Covigliajo 29lh 4 LeMaschere Florence Inns. Delicious trout may be procured here. ( a ) La Posta. Albergo della Vigna. Locanda d’ Inghilterra. Albergo di S. Marco. II Lione d’Oro. Albergo Reale Vecckio d’ Italia. La Croce Bianca. La Posta. Albergo di S. Marco. La Posta. La Croce Bianca. La Posta. (a) Only one inn. ( a ) Albsrgo di S. Marco. Albergo Imperiale. La Posta. (a) La Posta. A single house. II Pellicano. The road over the Apennine, be- tween Bologna and Florence, is so well constructed as to be almost constantly passable, even during heavy falls of snow ; but, on de- scending from Lojano to Florence, during frosty weather, it is some- times needful to chain two wheels at the same moment, andalwaysne- cessarylo double chain one wheel. Days. Posts 30lh Tavernelle 3 Poggibonsi 31st Siena 4 BuonConvenlo** 32d Locanda della Scala Torricelli Inns. Merely a resting place for horses. II Lione Rosso. L’Aquila Nera. Albergo del Cavalletto. ( a ) A single house, (a) Only one inn. (rz) Torricelli is situated about six miles beyond the mountain of Radicofani ; and Travellers who arrive late in the day, during winter, on the summit of this mountain, should not attempt de- scending till the next morning ; as the descent, from being rapid, and near the brink of precipices, * Just beyond Voghera a Bridge, which, unless drivers be careful, is dangerous. + A frontier Custom-house, belonging to Maria-Louisa. Between Castel S. Giovanni and Fiorenzuola Travellers ford that cele- brated torrent, the Trebia, which is souie- is dangerous without good driving light, though the road over Radi- cofani is at all seasons smooth and hard ; but from the base of the mountain to Torricelli, and a short distance further, the road, from being intersected by a tor- rent, is very rough during winter. times dangerous after heavy rains. § A frontier Custom-house, belonging to the Pope. ** Oxen are requisite, during winter, to draw carriages up the hill near Buoncon- vcnlo. 406 APPENDIX, [ch. Tit Days. Posts. Inns. 33d Bolsena La Posta. 42 Montefiascone . . La Posta. (a) 34th Ronciglione Albergo del Angelo, (a) 4 Monterosi La Posta. 35th Storla,...., 3g Roma Inns good, those marked thus ( a ) excepted. Road, in conse- quence of heavy rain, very in- different between Lucy- le-Bois and Ernay, between La Roche Pot and Chalons, between Huit Francke and Lyon, and between Tortona and Broni ; but, in every other part, perfectly good. After heavy winter rain, however, it is advisable to go from Turin to Milan, and thence to Bologna, in- stead of taking the shorter route through Alessandria. ROUTE FROM FLORENCE, THROUGH BOLOGNA , VENICE , VIENNA , PRAGUE , AND DRESDEN , TO HAMBURGH.* 23 Fusina — See “Route from Milan through Bergamo, etc., to Venice, Bologna, and Florence.” Venice, by water, 5 miles; and thence by water to Mestre, 5 miles. 42 Treviso —Principal inn, La Posta. 1 Spresiano 4 Conegtiano 12 Sacile 4 Pordenon\ 4|| Codroipo Udine 1% Nogaredo 2 Goertz 1 Cernicza 1 Wippach i Prewald 1 Adelsberg — See, under Germany, the route from Vienna to Trieste. 1 Lasse i Ober-Laybach 1 Layback — See, under Germany, the route from Vienna to Trieste. * See, under Germany, the price of post horses in that country. f Travellers who take the Klagenfurt— road go from Pordenon to S. Paternion ; crossing, previous to their arrival at the latter place, the Tagliamcnto, and then proceeding to Posts. Villaeh . . . • 1$ Velden .... 1 12 Potpetsch 1 S. Oswald I Franz II Cilli 12 Gannowitz 1 Freistritz 1 Mahrburgh— See, under Germany, the route from Vienna to Trieste. 12 Ehrenhaussen 1 Lebering 1 Kablsdorf 1 Gratz — See, under Germany, the route from Vienna to Trieste. 12 Pegau 1 Redelslein 1 Brack on the Muhr 1 Moerzhofeu 1 Krieglacb 12 Moerzuschlag 1 Schottwein 1 Neukirchen 1 Neustadt 2 Neudorf i Vienna 1 Enzersdorf i S locker au 1 Malehern 1 Holabrunn 1 Jezelsdorf J. Znaim 1 Freyrnersdorf 1 Budwitz 1 Schelletau 1 Stannern 1 Iglau 1 Stecken 1 Teutschhrodt 1 Steinsdorf 1 Benekau 1 Czaslau 1 Kolin 1 Planian i Boehm-brod 1 BichowiLz 1 Prague 1 Sarzedokluk 1 Schlan 12 Budin 1 Lobositz 1% Aussig 1 Pelerswald 1 ZehLt Klagenfurt . . , 1 S. Veit .... 1 Friesach , ... 1 fJeumarck ... 1 Unsmarck . . . .12 Judenberg . . . 12 Knittelfield ... 1 Graubath ... 1 Leoben .... 1 Brack .... 1 ITALY— ROUTES. 407 CH. VI.] 1 Dt'esden 1ft Meissen •lft Stauchitz lft Wermsdorff 1 Wurtzen jft Leipzig— See, under Germany, the route from Hamburgh to Leipzig. IgLandsberg 2 Coethen lft Kalbe 4ft Magdeburgh 2 Bmgstall 2 Stendal 1ft Oslerburgh 1 Arendsee IS Lenzen 2ft Lubten 1^ Boitzenhurg 2 Escheburg 1ft Hamburg. 426 posts. ROUTE FROM FLORENCE, THROUGH MANTUA, AND BY THE TYROL, TO AUGSBURGH AND WURTZ- BURCH. 9 Bologna— See the last route. Samoggia 1% Modena 1ft Carpi i Noyi 1ft S. Benedetto 1 Mantua — This city, which contains above 24,000 inhabitants, is watered by the Mincio, anciently Mincius ; and, being surrounded with inunda- tions occasioned by that river, is very unwholesome during summer. The Cathedral here was built after Jhe design of Giulio Romano, who painted its cieling and tribuna ; and lias likewise enriched Mantua with more of his works. Not far hence stands the Village of Pietole, also called Andes , the birth-place of Virgil. The principal inn at Mantua is La Posta, 4- Roverbefla 1ft Villafranca 1ft Verona lft Volarni 1 Peri 1 Halla — Inn, La Corona. lft Roveredo — This town was anciently called Roboretvm : its principal inns are La Rosa and La Corona. 1 Caliani | Trent — From Verona hither the road follows the course of the Adige. Trent, anciently called Tridentum, is placed in a delightful valley, at th." base of the Alps, between Italy end Germany. Its Cathedral, a Go- thic edifice, contains an excellent Organ; and beyond the Gale of S. Lorenzo is a fine Bridge thrown over the Adige, The principal inn here is L’Ruropa. 1 J Lavis 1ft Saloruo 1 Egna 1 Branzolo 1 Botzen— The country from Eotzen to Brixen is beautiful. 1 Deutscben 1 Kollman 1 Brixen 1 Ober-Mittewald X Sterzingen 1 Brenner 1 Steinach 1 Schoenberg 1 Lisp ruck- -This city, the capital of the Tyrol, and supposed to contain 10,000 inhabitants, is placed in a romantic valley, watered by the river Inn, anciently called Atous. The Mausoleum erected here, to re- cord In bassi rilievi the principal incidents of the life of Maximilian, merits notice. The Eagle, The golden Lion, and The Rose are the best hotels at Inspruck. 1 Zirl — Few scenes can vie in sublimit,y with the passage of the Zirl. 1 Barwies 1 Nazareth 1 Lermos 1 Reiti 1 Fiissen 1 Someister 4 Schwabich Briick 1 Hohenwart 1 Hurlach i ft Augsburg— -Principal inns, The Thtee Moors and The White Lamb. See, under Germany, the route from Frankfort to Augsburg, lft Metlingen 1 Donawert 1% Nordlingen 1ft Dunckelsphul 1 Creilshiem lft Blaufelden lft Mergenthiem 1 Bischofheim 1ft Wurlzburg — Principal inn, The Hotel of Franconia. See, under Ger- many, the route from Vienna to Osteud. 65ft posts. The road through the Tyrol, from Trent to Inspruck, was once excellent, and is still good ; though it has been, of late years, injured by the heavy cannon and artillery waggons which have passed over it. The views in this country are picturesque, beauti- ful, and sublime : and where the road quits the plains of Italy to ascend the Rhaetian Alps, are two gigantic and extraordinary rocks, which seem to have been severed by the hand of Naturp for the 408 APPENDIX. purpose of affording a passage to the Adige; whose graceful sinuo- sities are a material embellish- ment to every scene in which they present themselves. ROUTE , EN YOITURIER , DURING SUMMER, FROM ROME, THROUGH FLORENCE AND MILAN, BY THE SIMPLON, TO GENEVA ; AND OVER THE JURA ALPS TO PO- 1IGNY, DIJON, MELUN, PARIS, AND BOULOGNE.* No British subject, who intends going by the above-named route to England, should leave Rome without being provided with a passport from the British Consul- General ; which passport should be countersigned first at the Po- lice-office, then by the Ambassa- dor of Austria and Tuscany, and, lastly, by the French Ambassador. From Rome to Boulogne the time employed in travelling is about thirty- two days, during summer, with a light English post-chaise, not heavily laden, and drawn by three strong horses. First day, . Posts 4'j Baccano and Ronciglione. Second day, . Posts 6| Viterbo and San-Lorenzo Nuovo. Third day, . Posts 6^ Radicofani and San-Quirico. At Acqu a pendente, the next post to S. Lorenzo Nuovo, Travellers are obliged to show their passports, and to pay one paul per passport at the Police-Office there, as already men- tioned. At the ' Custom-house on Radicofani Travellers usually pay from three to six panls, according to the number of their trunks, for having them plumbed, and thus se- cured from examination in the Tus- can State. Fourth day, . Posts 2}£ Montaroni and Siena. If luggage he not plumbed it is ex- amined on going into Siena, by the Roman gate. * So littlo care is now taken of the Sim- plon-road, that I would advise Travellers neither to attempt leaving nor entering [CH. VI. Fifth day, . Posts 5 Barbarino and Florence. On entering the latter city Travellers j usually give a few Pauls to the Custom-house Officers. The Aquilci jj Neva is the inn usually resorted to by Vetturini. Sixth day, . Posts 4^ Le Mas- chere and Pietramala. Seventh day, . Posts 4'i, Poggioli and Bologna. Eighth day, . Posts 5 Modena and Marsaglia. Ninth day, . Posts 4 Parma and San-Domino. Tenth day, . Posts 4% Piacenza and j Casal-Puslerlengo. Beyond Piacenza, on the opposite side of the Po, is a Custom-house where trunks, and even the inside of car- riages undergo a strict examination ; but where nothing appears to he considered as contraband, except silks, and other wearing apparel not made up. It is advisable to have ■ luggage plumbed here. Eleventh day, . Posts 4 % Melegnnno and Milan. Twelfth day, . Posts 4% Cascina and Sesto-Calende. Thirteenth day, . Posts 7 Fariolo and Vogogna. Travellers, (if the weather be favour- | able), usually send their carriages f empty from Sesto to Fariolo ; hiring j for themselves, at Sesto, a boat, which costs a Napoleon, buona— j mano to the Boatmen inclusive; j aud which proceeds first to Arona, ? next to the Borromean Islands, and ‘ then to Fariolo. Fourteenth day, . Posts 6'^ Domo d ’Os- sola and Simplon. Fifteenth day, . Posts 6 Brigg Sixteenth day, . Posts 8& Tourtemagne | and Sion. Seventeenth day. Posts 6% Martigny and 1 S. Maurice. Eighteenth day, Posts S. Gingoux | and Thonon. Nineteenth day, Posts 4$ Geneva Twentieth day, Posts Gex and Mo- rez. Travellers are obliged to have their passports signed at Gex : and at the French Custom-house between Gex and Morez, trunks are completely unpacked and rigorously examined; as likewise are the insides of car- riages : nothing, however, seems to he considered as contraband by the searchers here, except wearing ap- parel, not made up, Roman pearls, and Geneva watches and trinkets lor sale. At Morez, trunks, etc. are again examined. Twenty-first day, Posts 7 Champagnoft* - and Poligny. Italy, by this route, sooner in spring than June, nor later in autumn than October. ITALY— ROUTES. m CH. VI.] On arriving al Poligny, Travellers are obliged to deliver up their Passports at the Sous-Prefecture ; whence they are forwarded to Paris : while new Passports (the expense of which is fifty sous each) are substituted for those left at the Sous-Prefecture. Twenty-second day, Posts 6% Mont-sous- Vaudrey and Auxonne. Twenty-third day. Posts (Jft Dijon and Pont-de-Pany. Twenty-fourth day. Posts 7,| Vilteaux and Rouvray . Twenty -fifth day. Posts 8j£ Lucy-le-Bois and Auxerre. Twenty-sixth day. Posts 7# Joigny and Sens. Twenty-seventh day, Posts 8 Montereau and Melun. Inn at the former ton n. The Lion d’Or, and had ; at the latter, The Hotel de France , and very comfortable. Montereau is a large town, watered by the Yonne and Seine ; but much injured in its appearance, by the bridges thrown over these rivers having been nearly destroyed by the merciless band of war. The bill above Montereau com- mands a fine view of the Yonne and Seine. Twenty-eighth day, Posts Charenton and Paris. The road from Fossard through Melun to Paris contains less pavement than does that through Fontainebleau ; but is more hilly, and not so plea- sant. The mode of proceeding with respect to Passports at Paris has been already mentioned. Twenty-ninth day. Posts 8^ Beaumont and Beauvais. Thirtieth day, . . . . 7g Granvilliers i and Airaines. ( Thirty-first day, ... 7,^ Nouvionand Monlreuil. Thirty -second day, . . 4% Boulogne. This is a handsome town ; in the vicinity of which there are several villas, chiefly tenanted by English families : and here likewise is a Pro- testant School for young Ladies, kept by Mrs. and Miss Dowling. It has been already mentioned that the passage from Boulogne to Dover is, generally speaking, accomplished in less time than from Calais to Dover : and Travellers who go to The Hotel de Londres al Boulogne, and embark from that inn, are charged as fol- lows: — Breakfast, per head, francs two— din- ner, francs four— beds, for one Master and one Servant, francs four— dis- mounting and embarking a four- wheeled carriage, francs sixteen- clearance of ditto and luggage, francs twelve— Permit, francs two— Pass- port, francs two— porters, from three to six francs, according to the quan- tity of luggage— Commissary (who exonerates Travellers both fiom trouble and expense at the Custom- house), francs ten.* The Commissary belpnging to the London Hotel at Dover charges leri and sixpence for getting an Eng- ii6ii carriage, with the luggage longing to it, out of the packet, and then clearing them at Lhe Custom- house; but British Travellers who design landing at Dover, should be careful not to bring with them a single article which pays duly if they would wish to avoid detention fatigue, and needless expense. ’ I travelled from Rome to Bou- logne in my ownlandaulet, drawn by three horses, belonging to the Roman Padrone di Vetiure , Bal- zani ; and I paid for myself, an- other Lady, and two Servants, a hundred louis-d’or, buona-mano inclusive; together with one Louis and a half per day whenever I chose to rest. Balzani engaged to defray the expense of barriers and toll-bridges; to furnish extra horses whenever needful ; to pro- vide us with two meals a day, a sitting-room, and four good beds every night during the journey; and likewise during days of rest: and also to have taken us on to Calais, had we desired it ; which engagement was so punctually ful- filled by his Postillion, who drove me, that I gave him three Napo- leons as a present. f 1 From Rome I took with me as many Louis-d or as served to pay Balzani ; and as many Napoleons as I was likely to want for other expenses ; and this proved an eco- nomical measure, because there is no agio upon gold at Rome. , * The charge at Boulogne, for embarking a ■ carriage, depends upon whether it fie dis- 1 mounted or not ; and as this hazardous opera- flition is seldom, if ever, necessary when car- f riages are conveyed from France to England, or vice versa, by Steam Packets, these ves- els, which may now be found in almost everv >ort, are the conveyance usually prefers i or carriages. " r f Balzani also paid the tax now levied in • ranee upon foreign Voiturins. 410 APPENDIX. feu. yi. ROUTE, EN VOITURIER, FROM FLORENCE TO VENICE, MILAN, TURIN, AND OVER MONT CENIS TO PONT-DE-BEAUVOISIN, DURING THE SUMMER OF 1822, WITH AM ENGLISH LAUNDALET DRAWN BY THREE HORSES. Inns. Hours. Days. Le Maschere ........ Pietramala ...» 1st Pogiole Bologna 2d 1] Te Ferrara ............ ....... n .... 3d Rovigo Monselice 3JS 4th Dolo Mestre 5th 6th Padua Vicenza ♦ • * . 7th Villa Nuova , ... 4 »• I 8th Peschiera • • • « Ponte S. Marco ...... • • . • 9th Brescia Anlignate 10th Gorgonzola Milan .... llth Novara !.!! 12th Vercelli .... 3£ Cigliano ... .... 13th Chivasso Torino .... 3£ !.*.’! i4th S . Ambrogio ....4 Susa . . . . .... 5JJ !!!! isth Lans-le-Bourg Modane .... 16th S. Jean de Mnurienne. . . . Aiguebelle .... 6' 17th Chavanne Chambery !!!’. isth Echelles • « * • Pont-de-IJeauvoisin .... n .... 19th A single house. A single house. {Not far beyond Pietramala is the Barrier where luggage may be plumbed for Ve~ nice.) S. Marco. A single house. I tre Mori. For signing every passport at Ferrara the charge is Jive pauls. La Posta. La Posla. La Campana. La Campana. Gran-JBretagna. Stella d’Ora. I Due Rode. A single house, (a) I Due Tom. Inn bad. La Posta, and extravagantly dear. I Due Torri. II Pozzo. Albergo Grande al Ponte, (a) extravagantly dear. Gorgonzola is famous for cheese called Slracchini. Gran-Rretagna. Albergo Grande. I Tre Re. I Tre Re. La Corona Grossa. I Due Buovi Rossi. La Buona Dofnna. La Vigna. La Posta * Hotel d’Angleterre. Hotel des Voyageurs. La Poste. Hotel de 1’Union. A single house, (a) La Poste. La Poste. Le Tre Corone. Posl-horses were put to my landaulet from Susa to the Italian barrier. CHAPTER VII. AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS. VENICE, MILAN, VIENNA, ETC. Passports— -Money of the Imperial Territories — Bankers’ accounts — Vienna bank-bills- Price of Post-horses, etc., in the Austrian-German Dominions— Most profitable money Travellers can take from Tuscany to Germany — Persons going from Tuscany to Venice should have their baggage plumbed at Floreuce— Fees to Custom-house Officers at Bologna and Venice— Price of Apartments at Hotels in Venice— of Dinner — of a Gondola— Wages of a Valct-de- Place — Articles best worth purchasing — Arrival and Departure of Letter-Couriers— Milan — Lodging-houses— Hotels — Job Carriages— Hackney Coaches— Valels-de- Place— Boxes at La Scala— Arrival and Departure of Letter-Couriers— Vienna — Pound weight— Braccio— Charges at Hotels— Price Of Dinner at a Table d’Hote — of Dinner at a Restaurateur’s — Wages ofa Valet-de-Place— Price per night of one Bed-room at an Inn— Hackney Coaches — Sedan Chairs— Medical Men— Shops— Articles best worth purchasing, and their prices— Expense of going into the Parterre at the Opera-house — Usual Price of a Box — Travellers advised to go Tost from Vienna to Dresden — Arrival and Departure of Letter-Couriers — Diligence— Prague— Articles best worth purchasing — Wages of a Valet-de-Place— Price of a Job Carriage— Hackney Coaches. No Foreigner is allowed to enter the dominions of the Emperor of Austria, without exhibiting a pass- port, signed by an Austrian Am- bassador. MONEY OF THE IMPERIAL TER- RITORIES. Souverain, florins 6|. Ducat, florins Crown, or piece of two florins and sixteen kreutzers. Piece of kreutzers 34. Ditto of kreutzers 18. Ditto of kreutzers 17. Piece of one paul, or kreut- zers 12. Ditto of kreutzers 10. Piece of kreutzers 5. Ditto of groschen 1, or kreut- zers 3. Ditto of kreutzers 1. An imperial sequin, and a du- cat, generally are synonymous : sometimes, however, an imperial sequin is only four florins and thirty kreutzers : other sequins are four florins and twenty-eight kreutzers. The convention-dol- lar passes for two florins through- out Germany. Sixty kreutzers make one florin. Bankers’ accounts are kept in florins. It is generally difficult in Germany, to procure much gold or silver, without paying an agio for it ; but the Vienna bank- bills, many of which are only five florins each, pass current every where throughout the imperial territories, and are always readily changed into silver. PRICE OF POST-HORSES IN THE AUSTRIAN-GERMAN DOMINIONS. The price of draught - horses throughout the Austrian domi- 412 APPENDIX. [CH. VII. nions, and other parts of Ger- florin and fifteen kreutzers, to one many, is fixed in the different florin and thirty kreutzers a post ; monies of the respective coun- and the price for greasing wheels is tries. twelve kreutzers. A German post is, generally speaking, about two German miles ; and one German mile is about four English miles and a half. In Austria and Bohemia (ac- cording to the tariff), draught- horses are charged at thii ty-five kreutzers each, per mile :* and the legal claim of Postillions is as follows : SINGLE POST. POST AND A DOUBLE HALF. POST. No. of Flo- Kreut- Flo- Kreut- Flo. Kieut- horses. rins. zers. rins. zers. rins. zers. 2 0 30 0 45 1 0 3 0 45 1 0 1 30 4 1 0 1 30 2 0 0 ...... 1 30 2 15 30 A German Postillion, like those of France and Italy, expects more than his legal claim ; and seems to think he has a right to as much per post for himself, as Post- masters charge per horse : in- deed, if he drive three horses, he expects to receive, per post, one third more than the price for each horse. The expense of greasing wheels, if grease be found by the Traveller, is from ten to se- venteen kreutzers ; and Travellers are obliged to pay for greasing their wheels at every third post. A carriage conveying but two persons, and but one trunk, is allowed to travel with two horses Only ; and carriages with four in- side places, and two trunks, are seldom compelled to travel with more than four horses. In the Empire, the price of every draught-horse is from one A Caleche de Poste , furnished by a Post-master, costs, in the Empire, twenty kreutzers per station. Persons who intend travelling from Rome through Florence, to Venice, and thence to Vienna, or any other part of Germany under Austrian government, should provide themselves, at Rome, with as many Napoleons as they may be likely to want between that city and the confines of Germany : and they should also endeavour to purchase, of the money-changers at Florence, souverains and imperial sequins sufficient for the imperial domi- nions in Germany. From the commencement of Saxony to the town of Hamburgh, Napoleons are the most profitable money for Travellers. Persons going from Tuscany to Venice, should have their baggage plumbed at Florence; which ope- ration usually costs about five pauls. At the gate of Bologna the Cus- tom-house Officers expect a pre- sent of five pauls per carriage; and at Ferrara, on quitting the town, Travellers are expected to make the same present. VENICE. Good apartments, containing from six to eight beds, cannot usually be procured, either at The Gran-Bretagna, or The Europa, for less than a Napoleon per night. Breakfast, for masters, costs two francs a head - dinner, five Travellers are sometimes compelled to pay more. or. vii.] AUSTRIAN DOMINIONS— VENICE. 413 francs — and the charge, per head, for servants, by the day, is six francs. A gondola, with only one gon- doliere, costs four francs per day; and contains, in its cabin, four persons; who may secure them- selves from rain; these boats being conveniently fitted up with glasses and Venetian-blinds : they are likewise furnished with hand- some lanterns at night. The wages of a Valet-de-place is from four to five francs a day. The articles best worth pur- chasing at Venice are, gold chains, seals, etc., sold by weight, accord- ing to the price of gold-neck- laces, and other personal orna- ments, made with very small beads of various colours— wax candies — Mocha coffee — choco- late — books, and maps. ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF LET- TER COURIERS. Sunday , at eight in the morn- ing, arrives the Courier from Padua — at ten arrive letters from Vienna, Trieste, etc. ; Milan, Ve- rona, Mantua, Brescia, Piedmont, Genoa, Switzerland, France, Spain, Great Britain, and the kingdom of the Netherlands. Monday, at eight in the morn- ing , arrive letters from Padua, Vicenza, etc. — at ten from Vien- na — and at four in the afternoon from Milan, Brescia, Verona, France, Switzerland, Spain, Great Britain, the kingdom of the Ne- therlands, the Tyrol, Germany, Ferrara, the Ecclesiastical State, the kingdom of Naples, and the Duchy of Modena. Tuesday, at eight in the morn- ing, arrive letters from Padua, Vicenza, etc., and at ten from Vienna, Milan, Mantua, etc., and Tuscany. Wednesday, at eight in the morning , arrive letters from Pa- dua — and at ten from Vienna, Trieste, Milan, Verona, etc., Ge- noa, and Piedmont. Thursday , at eight in the morning, arrive letters from Pa- dua, and Rovigo— at ten from Vienna, Milan, Verona, etc. ; France, Switzerland, Spain, Great Britain, and the kingdom of the Netherlands — and at four in the afternoon from Ferrara, the Ecclesiastical Slate, Naples, and Modena. Friday, at eight in the morn- ing, arrive letters from Padua — and at ten from Vienna, Trieste, etc.; Milan, Mantua, etc.; Tus- cany, the Tyrol, and Germany. Saturday, at eight in the morn- ing, arrive letters from Padua— and at ten from Vienna, and Milan. Sunday, at three in the af- ternoon, go letters for Vienna, Mestre, Treviso, etc. ; Trieste, Milan, Verona, Vicenza, etc. — and at five in the afternoon for Padua. Monday, at three in the after- noon, go letters for Milan, Padua, Vicenza, Verona, etc.- — and at six in the afternoon for \ 7 ieniia, and the intermediate cities. Tuesday, at noon, go letters for Ferrara, the Ecclesiastical State, Naples, and Modena— at three in the afternoon for Vien- na, and Milan — and at six in the afternoon for Padua. Wednesday, at six in the af- ternoon, go letters for Milan, Ve- rona, Mantua, Parma, Piacenza, Tuscany, Brescia, Bergamo, Pied- mont, Genoa, Switzerland, France, Spain, Portugal, Great Britain, the kingdom of the Ne- 414 APPENDIX. therlands, the Tyrol, Hamburgh and Germany, Vienna, Mestre, Treviso, etc. ; Trieste, and Padua. Thursday , at three in the af- ternoon, go letters for Vienna, Milan, etc. — and at six in the af- ternoon, for Padua. Friday, at noon, go letters for Padua, Ferrara, the Ecclesiastical State, Naples, and Modena — at three in the afternoon for Milan, Vicenza, Verona, etc.— and. at six in the evening for Vienna, Mestre, Treviso, etc., and Trieste. Saturday, at ha If -past eight in the evening, gn letters for the EcclesiasticalState, Naples, Milan, Verona, Mantua, Parma, Piacen- za, Tuscany, Brescia, Bergamo, Piedmont, Genoa, Switzerland, France, Spain, Portugal, Great Britain, the kingdom of the Ne- therlands, the Tyrol, Hamburgh, and Germany; Padua, Treviso, Vienna, and Trieste. The Post-office is always open from eight in the morning till five in the afternoon; and, on some days of the week, till a later hour. MILAN. Lodging-houses in thi scity are numerous, and not very high priced. Hotels are expensive. A job carriage usually costs from fifteen to sixteen francs per day; and the price of Hackney coaches is the same as at Paris. A Valet- de-Place, if hired for a very short tinpie, and expected to act as a Ci- cerone, commonly demands five francs per day : and the expense of a good box, large enough to accommodate four persons, at La Scala, on Sundays, seldom a- niounts to less than from twenty- five to thirty francs, entrance- money inclusive ; which is one franc and a half per head ; but, [ch. VII. on other days, a box may fre- quently be hired for ten francs. The price per head for admittance to the Parterre is one franc and a half. ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF LET- TER-COURIERS. Sunday, arrive letters from Switzerland. Monday, from Genoa, Great Britain, France, Spain, Portugal, Turin, Venice, Germany, and other parts of northern Europe. Tuesday, from Naples, Rome, Tuscany, Switzerland, etc. W ednesday from Genoa , Great Britain, etc., as on Monday. Friday, from Genoa, Great Britain, etc., ason Monday — and from Tuscany, Rome, Naples, Venice, Germany, other parts of northern Europe, and Switzer- land. Saturday, from Switzerland, and the kingdom of the Nether- lands. Sunday, at eleven in the morn- ing, go letters for Switzerland, and the kingdom of the Nether- lands. Monday, at six in the afternoon, for Venice, etc . — at 'nine in the evening for Genoa, Spain, etc.— and at ten for Turin, France, Great Britain, etc. Tuesday, atelevenin the morn- ing, for Switzerland. Wednesday, at one in the af- ternoon, for Switzerland, and the kingdom of the Netherlands — at six in the afternoon for Venice, Germany, and other parts of north- ern Europe — at nine in the even- ing for Florence, Rome, Naples, Genoa, etc. — and at ten for Turin, France, Great Britain, etc., as on Monday. Thursday, for Switzerland. Saturday, at nine in the even- VIENNA. CH. VII.] ing, for Genoa, elc., as on Mon- day— and at ten for Venice, Germany, and other parts of north- ern Europe ; Florence, Rome, Naples, Turin, France, Great Bri- tain, etc., as on Wednesday. The Post-Office is opened, at nine in the morning, every Mon- day, Tuesday, and Wednesday — at eleven every Thursday— and at nine, every Friday, Saturday, and Sunday : and it is shut, at six in the evening, every Monday— at nine, every Tuesday— at ten, every Wednesday and Saturday —at three, every Thursday and Sunday — and at nine, every Fri- day, VIENNA. The pound-weight at Vienna is eighteen ounces ; and the com- mon measure, called a hraccio, is somewhat longer than that of Flo- rence. At one of the best Hotels in Vienna, I paid for six rooms, and dinner for three persons, linen, bread, beer, and table wine* inclusive, eighteen florins per day. 'The price of dinner at a Table dUote, varies from thirty-four kreutzers to a crown per head; and the price of dinner at a Res- taurateur s , varies from five kreut- zers to one florin per head. A Valet-de-Place usually ex- pects from thirty-four kreutzers to one florin per day. It is seldom possible at Vienna, to procure a bed-room at any inn for less than one florin per night. There are in this city, excellent Hackney coaches to be hired by the hour ; and good sedan chairs, > * Travellers should endeavour to procure old Austrian wine, which is more wholesome than are the common wines of Hungary. The 415 into which the sick cannot be admitted. There likewise are several good physicians and sur- geons. The shops at Vienna are richly furnished; and the articles best worth purchasing seem to be, eyder-down, black lace, furs, household linen, Bohemian ker- seymere, and broad cloth. Eyder- down is usually sold at nine florins the pound. Broad black lace costs from three to five pan Is the hraccio; kerseymere, if dyed in grain, three florins and three quarters the hraccio; if not so dyed, three florins and one quarter only. The usual price in the parterre at the opera-house is one florin ; but, upon extraordinary occasions, two ; the usual price of a box one ducat; but upon extraordinary occasions, two. It is not pleasant to travel en voiturier from Vienna to Dresden ; because the Post-masters between the above-named cities are so spite- ful to Voituriers that the latter can neither procure extra horses, nor other necessary accommodations on the road. ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF LET- TER-COURIERS. Monday morning arrives the post from Italy, Spain, France, and Great Britain. Tuesday morning from Saxo- ny, and the northern countries. Thursday morning from Italy. Saturday morning from Sax- ony. Monday afternoon at three o’clock , goes the post to Italy. Germans, if report speak true, frequently put a poisonous metallic substance into their white wines, particularly those of the Rhine. 4 i6 APPENDIX. Wednesday evening to Saxon}', and the northern countries; Spain, France, and Great Britain. Thursday evening to Italy. Saturday evening to Spain, France, and Great Britain. The posts of the Imperial Ger- man Dominions arrive and depart daily. A Diligence sets out for Pres- burgli at eight o’clock every morning ; another, for Italy, at half-past seven every Monday morning; and another for Prague and Dresden, at nine o’clock every Tuesday morning. One place in [ch. vrr. a German Diligence usually costs about thirty kreutzers per German mile. PRAGUE. The articles best worth pur- chasing here are, Silesia lawns, table-linen, Bohemian lustres, and other kinds of glass. The wages usually demanded by a Valet-de-place is thirty-four kreutzers a day; and the price of a job-carriage two florins and thirty kreutzers a da}'. There are good Hackney coaches in this city. CHAPTER VIII. DRESDEN, HAMBURGH, BERLIN, etc. Money of Saxony —Price of Post-horses— Dresden— Pound-weight— Common measure— Price of Apartments in the principal Hotels— Price of Dinner at Hotels, and at the houses of Restaurateurs— Wages of a Valet -de-Piace -Price of Job Carriages, Sedan Chairs, Wine, and Bottled Beer— Articles best worth purchasing— Arrival and Departure of Letter- Couriers — Expense of franking letters for England — Diligence — Hamburgh — - Money, Bankers’ accounts, etc. -Pound-weight— Price per head for Dinner at a Table d’Hole— Price of Claret— Cambrick the article best worth purchasing — Price of Post-horses, etc. in the Dominions of Prussia, Hesse, Brunswick, and Hanover— Roads in northern Germany — Wienerwagens— Marktschifts— -Private Vessels— Voyage from Frankfort on the Mein to Cologne — Ditto from Ratisbon to Vienna —Route from Hamburgh to Berlin— Population of that city, and objects best worth notice — Theatres, Clubs, etc —Promenades— Hotels and Lodging-houses— Wages of a Valet-de -Place— lob Carriages— Hackney Coaches— Price of Dinner at a Restaurateur's— Environs ••Route from Hamburgh to Leipsic— Population of Leipsic Objects best worth notice— Promenades— Prices at the German Theatre— Best Inns - Fairs - Pricer, at Inns— Wages of a Valet-de-Place— Job Carriages, and Hacks— Route from Leipsic to Dresden— from Leipsic through Gotha to Frankfort on the Mein— from Leipsic to Brunswick— from Brunswick to Hanover— from Hanover to Gottipgen— from Leipsic to Danzick— from Frankfort on the Mein to Augsburgh— from Augsburgh to Con- stance, Schaffausen, and Basle— from Augsburgh to Ratisbon— from Ratisbon to Munich— from Ratisbon to Prague— and from Vienna through Ratisbon and Brussels to Q tend — Packets from Colchester to Ostend; from Ostend to Harwich ; and from Ostend to Margate — Route from Frankfort on the Meine through Cassel to Munster— Voyage, on the Rhine from Mayence to Coblentz-— Excursion from Gottingen to Harz— German Baths— Carlsbad— Expenses there— Pyi’mont— Expenses there— Spa— -Expenses there— Route from Vienna to CarJsImd, through Eger and Zwoda— from Hanover to Pyrmont— from Hamburgh to Pyrmont-- from Brussels, through Aix-la-Chapelle and Liege, to Spa— from Vienna to Baaden — from Vienna to Presburgh— from Teusch Altenburg to Belgrade— from Prdshurgh to Kaschau and Tokay— and from Vienna to Trieste. being an imaginary coin, worth one florin and a half. Spanish dollars do not pass here. PRICE OF POST-HORSES, ETC. IK SAXONY. For every draught -horse the charge is ten groschen per mile ; and every postillion, driving three or lour horses, has a right to eight groschen. Couriers, whether tra- velling in a carriage or on horse- back, pay twelve groschen a mile. * These are not convention dollars, but those in which Bankers’ accounts are kept. MONEY OF SAXONY. Ducat ......worth florins 4 % Crown, or convention dollar. .... .florins 2 Florin groschen 1 6 Hall-florin .groschen 8 Quarter-florin groschen 4 Piece of groschen two, marked. “ 12” that number of these pieces making one dollar.* 0 Piece of groschen one, marked “24” that number of these pieces making one dollar. Piece of half a groseh, marked. ....... .“48” that number ot these- pieces making one dollar. Piece of three pfennings. Piece of one pienning. Bankers’ accounts are kept in dollars and groschen ; the former 418 APPENDIX. Two persons, if travelling in their own carriage, are obliged to take three horses ; but, if travelling in a Post-master’s carriage, not more than two horses. The charge for a Post- master’s carriage is four groschen per mile ; and the charge tor greasing wheels from three to four groschen. DRESDEN. The pound weight of Dresden is sixteen ounces; the aune, or common measure, two feet ; and the fool twelve inches. The best apartments in the principal Hotels usually let for one ducat per day ; and dinaer, in these hotels, is commonly charged at one florin per head ; though Travellers may be tole- rably well served at twelve gro- schen. Restaurateurs give good dinners at eight groschen per head. The wages of a Valet-de place is one florin per day. A job carriage, for the whole day, costs about three florins; for the half day, two florins and four groschen. The price of a Sedan chair, in the old Town, is two groschen for going to any part of it; and two for returning : in the new Town exactly double ; and the chairmen charge one grosch for every quarter of an hour when they are kept waiting. Wine of the country is usually charged at ten groschen per bot- tle ; and bottled beer at two gro- schen and six pfennings. The articles best worth pur- chasing in this city are black and white lace, which may be bought of the Lace-makers. [ch. vm. n ARRIVAL AND DEPARTURE OF LET- K TER- COURIERS* ® Sunday afternoon arrive let- ( ters from Vienna, Prague, etc. ; and likewise from Great Britain, J France, Holland, Hamburgh, r Amsterdam, Belgium, Hanover, >, Brunswick, etc. Tuesday morning , from Italy, the Tyrol, Switzerland, etc. Wednesday afternoon , from Vienna, Prague, etc. Thursday afternoon , from Holland, Belgium, Hamburgh, etc. Sunday morning , at eight o'clock, the post goes to Ham- burgh, with letters for Gueat Bri- tain, etc. Monday afternoon, at three o'clock, to Holland and Belgium ; and at six, to Prague, Vienna, etc. ; Venice, Italy in general, and Switzerland. Wednesday , at noon, to Hol- land, France, Denmark, etc. Friday, at one in the after- noon, to Prague, Vienna, etc. Letters must be sent to the post one hour, and parcels two hours, before the Courier sets out. Let- ters for Great Britain pay eight groschen each. Wednesday morning, at eight o’clock, the Diligence sets out for Prague and Vienna ; and Thurs- day morning, at the same hour, for Hamburgh. HAMBURGH. Accounts are kept in marks and skillings ; a mark being from six- teen to eighteen pence, English, according to the exchange ; and a skilling the sixteenth of a mark. Convention - dollars do not pass for quite two florin? at ch. vrti.l GERMANY— PRUSSIAN DOMINIONS, etc. 419 Hamburgh ; no money being cur- rent but that of Hamburgh and Denmark. The pound weight is sixteen ounces. Several of the Inns contain a Table cC Hole, at which the price, per head, for dinner, is from twelve skillings to two marks. Claret is good and cheap ; being usually sold at two marks a bottle. Almost every article of com- merce may be purchased at Ham- burgh ; but, though exempt from Port-duties, things in general are dear, cambrick excepted. PRUSSIAN DOMINIONS. Persons who travel post usually pay ten groschen per German mile for every draught- horse ; and at Berlin one mile more than the actual distance is charged, it being a post royal. The Wa- genmeister, or Superintendant of post-carriages, has a right to four groschen at every post ; and Pos- tillions are entitled to three gro- schen per mile. The price for greasing wheels is four groschen in Capital Cities, and other large towns ; but, in Tillages, only two groschen. A light carriage, containing only two places, is allowed to tra* vel with only two horses, provided it convey but one person and one trunk : if it convey two persons, they must take three horses ; and carriages conveying three or four persons must have four horses. Every Berlin, or carriage with four inside places, must have four horses ; and if it contain four per- sons, five horses ; but if it con- tain from five to seven persons, six horses are indispensable : and if, moreover, it be heavily charged with baggage, Post-masters are authorized to put on eight horses. The price of a Caleche de Paste, furnished by a Post-mas- ter, is six groschen per station. Postillions are obliged to drive one German mile an hour on well- paved roads ; one mile in an hour and a quarter on good roads not paved ; and one mile within an hour and a half where the road is sandy. On quitting Berlin every Tra- veller should have a passport from Government, which the Wagen- meister commonly procures. Tra- vellers should likewise have their trunks plumbed. HESSE. Persons who travel post pay ten groschen per German mile for every draught-horse ; and for Cou- riers’ horses twelve groschen. If the post be from two miles and a half to three miles in distance, the postillion is entitled to eight gro- schen, provided he drive three or four horses ; and he is entitled to ten groschen, provided there be six horses. If the length of the post be from one mile and a half to two miles only, and the Postil- lion drive three or four horses, he is entitled to six groschen; and provided there be six horses, ho is entitled to eight groschen. The legal claim of the JVagert- meister at each station, is two groschen ; and the charge for greasing wheels from three to four groschen. BRUNSWICK. Persons who travel post pay twelve groschen per German mile for every draught-horse. A Berlin conveying six persons, 420 APPENDIX. servants inclusive, together with trunks not exceeding three quin- tals in weight, is allowed to travel with only four horses. A post- chaise conveying four persons, servants inclusive, is allowed to travel with only three horses ; and if it convey but three per- sons, it is allowed to travel with only two horses. HANOYER. Persons who travel post pay twelve groschen per German mile for every draught-horse. A postillion who drives two or three horses is entitled to six gro- schen ; if he drive four horses, his claim is eight groschen ; and he is entitled to sixteen groschen pro- vided there be six horses: but, if a post be uncommonly long, namely, from four to five miles in distance, he is entitled to seven groschen, provided he drive two or three horses; nine, if he drive four horses ; and eighteen , if there be six horses. The JVagenmeister s claim is from three to six groschen per post ; and the expense of greasing wheels, from three to four gro- schen. In Hanover, the old Louis passes for only four crowns and sixteen groschen in paying either the post or the tolls; but is current for five crowns in paying for grease, Trin- geld (drink-money), and expenses at inns. The roads in the north of Ger- many are, generally speaking, bad ; and the melange of territo- ries is an obstacle to their im- provement : moreover, the dis- tances from place to place are not [ch. VIII. determined with precision ; and therefore Post-masters sometimes j exact. There is a kind of carriage, half open, and containing four per- ! sons, to which, if it be not en- cumbered with much baggage, Post-masters have no right to put more than two horses, except in the Hanoverian territories. This carriage is called a Wiener wagon. The noble rivers which inter- sect Germany render travelling , by water practicable and plea- sant ; there being, on many of these rivers, Marktschiffs (a sort ■■ of Coche-d eau ), which travel re- i gularly from city to city. Private vessels likewise maybe > procured. The voyage from Frankfort on i the Mein to Cologne is delight- ful; as is that from Ratisbon to Yienna.* ROUTE FROM HAMBURG TO BERLIN. ll Escbenburgh 2 Boitzenburgh 1 % Lubthen 2& Lenzen — This town is charmingly situ- ated. A ferry over the Elbe. " Perleberg 1 Kleezke 1% Kyritz 2 Fehrbellin 2 Boelzo Berlin. 1G| posts. Berlin, the metropolis of Prus- sia, and one of the most splendid cities in Germany, is watered by the Spree, and supposed to con- tain (including ii s garrison) one hundred and fifty-one thousand inhabitants best worth Chateau Royal — Monbijou ■ — the Royal Stables — the Arsenal, deemed the finest building of its kind in Europe; its Court con- . Some of the objects notice here are — The * A. Coche-d’ eau goes every Sunday from a gentleman or lady, is a ducat; and for a Ratisbon, and arrives at Vienna in three days, servant, a convention dollar, or three and a half. The passage-money, for CH. VIII. J BERLIN. 421 tains twenty-one masks, repre- senting Death, by Schluter; and the Statue of Frederick I. is by Schluter and Jacobi— the Italian Opera House , which contains five thousand spectators — the Royal Library, built after the design of Frederick II. — the buildings r of the Royal Academy — the The- atre and Churches in the '■ Place des Gens-d 1 armes — the Hotel de rille— the Bank— the Governors Palace — L Hotel des Cadets — jj Hotel des Invalides — the Pa- laces of Prince Henry, the Prince Royal, Prince Louis of Prussia, e tc.— the Cathedral— the Church of S. Hedewige—the Church be- longing to the Garrison, and con- taining four pictures by Rhode, which represent the death of four celebrated Prussian Warriors — • the Church of S. Peter— ‘the Church of S. Mary, and its Go- thic Tower— the Church of S. Nicholas, remarkable for its an- tiquity, paintings, and sculpture; and likewise for the monument of PufFendorff— the Churches of S. Sophia and S. Dorothy, the lat- ter of which contains the monu- ment of Count de Mark — the Pa- rochial Church — - the Place de Guillaume , ornamented with sta- tues — the colossal equestrian Statue of the Elector Frederick- JVilliam, deemed the chef-d’oeu- vre of Schluter — the Pont Royal — the magnificent Brandenburgh Gate, built after the model of the Propylajumat Athens— the Porce- I lain Manufactory — and the Iron Foundery. 1 To the Italian Opera the audi- 1 ence are admitted gratis; Fo- j reign ers being placed in the se- •1 cond and third row of boxes. — At the Bufl'a Opera and the Ger- * Tills is an excellent Inn , an man Theatre, the price for each place in the first row of boxes is sixteen groschen ; in the second row, twelve groschen ; in the par- quet, twelve groschen ; in the amphitheatre, eight groschen ; and in the gallery, four groschen. Clubs, called Resources , and the Fishery at Stralau, on the 24th of August, serve to diversify the amusements of this city. The principal Promenades are under the Lime-trees-- the Place de Guillaume — the Place de Doehn- hof — the Park — Le Cercle — Belle- vue • — the Garden of the Royal School — and the Coffee and Le- monade Gardens. Here are three classes of Ho- tels, in the first of which may be placed La Ville de Paris — V Aigle d'Or — La Ville de Rome — Le Cerf d'Or — and//’ Hotel de Russ ie.* A tariff, exhibiting the prices at these hotels (which prices are fixed by government ) , is open to the inspection of every Traveller. Ready-furnished lodgings are ad- vertised in the newspaper ; and the rent of two rooms in a good situation is from eight to twelve crowns per month. The ■wages of a Valet-de-Place is twelve groschen a day, provided he be kept no longer than eight o’clock in the evening: and six- teen groschen if he remain be- yond that hour. The price of a job carriage is two crowns a day ; and the fare in a hackney coach from six to eight groschen, according to the distance. Restaurateurs charge for din- ner from six to twelve groschen per head. The environs of Berlin contain several objects worth notice ; a- t contains a good Table d’Hotc. 422 APPENDIX. [cm. VIII. % mong which is Sans Souci ; w here the Gallery of Paintings exhibits a sketch of Moses, by Rembrandt — Roman Filial Piety, by Guer- cino — the four Evangelists, by Yandyck — and Yenus attired by the Graces, together with the Judgment of Paris, by Rubens. Persons who like water-parties, may go in boats to Treptow, Char- lottenburg, etc. ROUTE FROM HAMBURGH TO LEIP- SIC. 7 \ Lenzen 1JS Arendsee i Osterburgh i% Slendal — The Cathedral of S. Nicholas merits notice. i% Burgstall 1 Magdeburgh — This city is supposed to contain 36,000 inhabitants. Best ho- tels, L’Aubarge d’Allnier, and Le Rui de Prusse. 1 Salze 1 Kalbe Coethen 1 Zoerbig 1 Landsberg l’i Leipzig . 20| posts. This town is supposed to con- tain above 32,000 inhabitants. The objects best worth notice are — The Pleissenbourg — the Pauli- num — the College of the Princes , and the Red College — the ancient Arsenal — the Hotel de Ville—the Cour d' Auerbach in Fair time — the Exchange — the College of S. Thomas — the Manege — the The- atre— the Churches of S. Nicho- las and S. Thomas — the House (f Mr. Muller, which contains thirteen ceilings by Oeser • — the Esplanade — and the Public Li- braries. The Promenades are numerous and pleasant. The prices at the German Theatre are, for a box in the first row, four crowns ; in the second row three crowns ; in the third row, eight bons-gro- gchen ; and, for a place in the parterre, six bons groschen ; un- less it be Fair time, when some- thing more is paid. The three Fairs are held at Christmas, Easter, and Michael- mas ; and at these Fairs as many books are said to be sold yearly as amount to 500,000 rix-dollars. The principal inns are — EHo - > tel de Saxe — E Hotel de Baviere i — and E Ange Bleu. The price of a front room, fuel I inclusive, at an Inn, is one florin per day ; and of a back room, eight bons-groschen. The wages \\ of a Valet-de-Place is one florin , per day ; unless it be during Fair time, when he expects a crown. Job carriages and common hacks ' may always be found before the Gates of S. Pierre and Grimma. Leipsic will henceforth be me- morable for having given its name to one of the most important mo- dern battles ever fought — a battle in which near half a million of men, commanded by three Empe- rors, a King, and an Heir-appa- rent to a throne, were engaged during little less than a hundred hours — they fought in a circle embracing above fifteen miles. ROUTE FROM LEIPSIC TO DRESDEN. \\ Wurzen — The Cathedral here merits notice. 1 Wernsdorf I Stauchitz I I Meissen — Best inn, L,e Soleil d’Or. 1 'l Dresden. Q'/i posts. ROUTE FROM LEIPSIC THROUGH GOTHA, TO FRANKFORT ON THE MEIN. 1 Liitzen — Near this small town is the spot ] on which Gustavus Adolphus perish- ed ; and a stone marks the spot where this hero’s body was found. Charles XII., being in the neighbour- ; hood of Liitzen, went to visit the field of battle ; little thinking, per- j haps, that treachery would soon de- ca. viii.] GERMANY— BRUNSWICK, 423 slroy his life, as it did that of his glorious model, Gustavus. 1 Weissenfels — The Castle here and its Church merit notice. 1 Naumburgk — The Cathedral here me- rits notice. Best inns. The Post-house, and Le CheOal. The wine of this neighbourhood resembles Burgundy, i Auerstadt — Between Naumburgh and Auerstadt the road traverses the mountain of Koesen. 1 \ Weimar Erfurt — -This city is enriched with a University. \'h Gotha— The inhabitants of Gotha are estimated at 11,000. The Chateau — the great Terrace — the Arsenal — the churches called Kloster and Neumarkts K ire hen — the English Garden— the public Library and that of the Sovereign — the Royal Collection of Paintings, etc. — and the Gymnasium, merit notice. Best inns, Le Negre, and Le Grelot d ’ Argent . The road to Gotha is execrable in wet weather. Eisenach — La Klemme is a good inn. The Castle of Wartbourg, which stands on the summit of a hill in this vicinity, once served as an asy- lum to Luther. 1 Berka — A bad road from Eisenach to Berka. 1 Wach — Pavement from Berka hither. 1% Hunefeld 1 Fulde — This city contains 12,000 inha- bitants. The objects best worth no- tice are, the Chateau — the Cathe- dral — the Churches of S. Boniface and S. Michael — the Convent of S. Sauveur — the Benedictine and Franciscan Convents — the Porce- lain Manufacture, and the Library belonging to the University. The celebrated Baths of Bruckenau are near Fulde. Best inns, The Post-house, and Le Cigne. The wine of S. John’s moun- tain, in this neighbourhood, is excel- lent, and sold in sealed bottles out of the Prince Bishop’s cellar. 1 Neuhof % Schliichtern 1 Saalmiinsler 1 Gelnhauseu — Le Soleil is a good inn. 1^ Hanau — A pretty town. The Castle me- rits notice. 1 Frankfort. 20Jj posts. The inhabitants of Frankfort are estimated at 43,000, beside near 7,000 Jews, who live detach- ed from the rest of the people. The objects best worth notice in this city are — the Cathedral — the Church of S. Catherine — the Convent des Predicateurs, con- taining a celebrated Assumption, by Albert Durer — the Hotel de Ville—the Teutonic Palace — the Palace of the Prince of Thurn and Taxis — the Exchange — the Arsenals — the Founder j — the Hotel Diet l — the Maison de Force — the Hospital of S. Esprit— ‘the Theatre — and the Bridge , thrown over the Mein. Inns — La Cour d' Angleterre — La Maison Rouge — Le Cygne Blanc , etc. Frankfort Fair is held twice a year; namely, at Easter, and dur- ing the latter end of Summer. ROUTE FROM LEIPSIC TO BRUNS- WICK. 1$ Groskugel 1\ Halle— Inns, L’Anneau d’Or — Prince Royal de Prusse — Lion d’Or. Among the objects best worth notice here are the Cathedral and the University. I'l Konnern 1 jji Aschersleben — The Church of S. Etienne — the Public School — and the Ruins of the Chateau d’Ascanie, merit notice. 1 Quediinburgh — The Chateau — the Li- brary — and the Promenade called Le Bruhl, merit notice. 1 Halberstadt 1% Roklum 1% Brunswick. 11 posts. Brunswick is supposed to con- tain 28,000 inhabitants. The objects best worth attention in this city are — the Castle, called Grauen Hof — the New Hotel de Ville — the Most-Haus, in the Square, before which is an an- tique Statue of a Lion — the Build- ings of Carolinum — the Opera- house — the Cathedral — the Hos- pitals — the Fountain , in the Place de Hegenmarkt — the Church of S. Nicholas , which contains two good pictures — the Churches of S. Catherine and S. Andrew — the Old Hotel de Ville — the Royal Collection of Natu- ral History, Paintings, etc. — and the Carolinum Library . 424 APPENDIX. Brunswick is famous for a sort of beer called Mumme. Best inn — L' Hotel cC Angle- terre. At Wolfenbuttel, near this city, there is a valuable Library ; and at the Chateau cle Salzdahlum a good collection of Pictures. ROUTE FROM BRUNSWICK TO HAN- OVER. 1 1 Peine i Sehnde 1 Hanover. Z't, posts. This city contains about 18,000 inhabitants ; and the objects best worth notice are — the Church belonging to the Chateau — the Opera-house — the Royal Stables — the Maison des Etats - — the Arsenal —the Mint — the Cannon Foundery — the Monument of JVerlhof, in the public Cemetery * — the Monument of Leibnitz — and the Royal Library. The principal Promenades are — the Countess of Yarmouth’s Garden — Ellernreid Wood — Count Wal- moden’s Garden — and the drive to Herrnhausen, and Mont Bril- lant. Best Inns — La Taverne de Lon - dres — Prince d’Eutin — and La Maison de Strelitz. ROUTE FROM IIANOVER TO GOT- TINGEN. 1 Tie Icziwiesen— This road is excellent. 1 Bruggen Eimheck. 1 Nordheim — A famous Organ in the pa- rochial Church. 1 Gottingen. 5 1 posts. The city contains near 8,000Jn- babitants. The objects best worth notice are — the six Churches — the Buildings of the University — the Observatory — the Lying-in Hospital — the Anatomical The- atre — the Botanic Garden— -the Manege , and the Library belong- [cii. vill. ing to the University. This Li- brary contains above 120,000 volumes, and is deemed the best ; in Germany. Inns — La Couronne — Le Roi '\ de Prusse, etc. The environs of Gottingen are i interesting ; and especially so is the excursion to Hartz. ROUTE FROM LEIPSIC TO DANT- ! ZICK. Miles. 3 Torgau— The principal Churcli here con- tains the Tomb of Catherine a Boria Luther’s wife. 1 1 Herzberg 1 Hohenbuckau 1 Luckau 1 Lubben 1 \ Liberosa 1 Beeschow 1 Miihlrose 1 1 Frankfort on the Oder— This city con- tains 12,000 inhabitants ; and among! ' the objects best worth notice are the Churches of S. Mary and S. Ni- ] cholas — the Chartreuse — the Hotel j de Fille — the Casernes — the Ilotei A Dieu—the Bridge— the Monument of Prince Leopold of Brunswick \ i who was drowned in the Oder, by attempting to save the lives ot other s | — and the Monument of Kleist, the ;i Poet. There is a University here : and amonj the best inns are, Les Trois Cou- ronnes, L'Aigle Noir, and Le So- ldi d’Or. 2 Cuslrin 2% Neudamm Sold in Pyritz 3 Slarga rd — The Church of S. Mary , ii this town, merits notice. The hes | inn is Les Trois Couronnes, nea the Post-house. 2% Massow 3 Neugard 2 1 Plathow -2\ Pinnow 2% Leppin 2\ Coer] in 3$ Coeslin 3 \ Pankenin 3X Schlave | Z'h Stolpe— Famous for the amber found i : its vicinity. 3% Lupow 5" Godentau 3 % Neustadt 3% Katz 3X Dantzig. 75 miles. This city contains 48,000 inks bitants ; and among the objecl best worth notice are — the Ex m. viii.] GERMANY— FRANKFORT, BASLE. 425 [change— the Cathedral, which is of which possesses the drawings , one of the finest churches in Eu- and sketches of Albert Durer. ’ r0 p e — the Lutheran College — Augsburgh exhibits vestiges of the Hotel de Ville — the Cour des Roman Antiquities. I Nobles the Arsenal — and the Les Trois Maures has been al- Junker-Garten . ready mentioned as the best inn ; Inns — La Maison Anglaise— V Agneau blanc , in the Faubourg, >,Les Trois Negres, etc. likewise merits recommendation. ROUTE FROM FRANKFORT ON THE MEIN TO AUGSBURG. *1 S Hanau— Philipsrulie and Wilhelmsbad, in this neighbourhood, merit notice, i \\ Dettingen— Memorable tor the battle of ! 1743. ! % Aschafienhurg 1 Obernburg I Mil'enburg I 1 Hundheim 1 Bischofscheim |, 1 Mergentheim | : 12 Blaufelden , 12 Crailsheim— Famous for its China Ma- nufacture and mineral waters. 1; 1 Diinbelsbubl — The Church of the Car- melites, in this town, is adorned w ith a fine picture. : 12 Nordlingen — A Crucifix, attributed to Buonaroti, and an excellent Paint- ing by Albert Durer, embellish the principal Church here, j Ij Donauworlh ) 1 2 Meidingen i 12 Augsburgh. I 18^ posts. Augsburgh, formerly denomi- nated Augusta Vindelicorum, the largest city in Swabia, and sup- posed to be the most ancient, is seated between the rivers Lech and Wertach, and contains 36,000 inhabitants. The objects best worth notice are the Cathedral, which comprises twenty-four cha- els ; and is adorned with a cele- rated picture of the Resurrection, by Zoll -- the Abbey of S. Ulric — the Church of S. Anne • — the Hotel de Ville — the Tower (f Perlach—the Arsenal— the House of Correction — the Gate called Einlass — the public Fountains — some private houses, which con- tain antique paintings in fresco — and the Libraries belonging to the Cathedral and S. Ulric ; the latter ROUTE FROM AUGSBURGH TO CON- STANCE, SCHAFFHAUSEN, AND BASLE. 1/ Schwabmiinchen 12 Miudelheim 1 i Memmingen 12 Wurzach % Wolfek % Ravensberg 1 SLadelle— The first view of the Lake of Constance is enchanting. 1 Moersburg 1 Constance — Travellers who pursue this route cross the Lake to Constance ; and for a four-oared boat, large enough to convey a carriage, the common price is from three to four florins, together with about thirty kreutzers to the boatmen for drink- money. The Cathedral at Constance is a fine edifice; and its doors merit observa- tion. The principal inn is L'Aigle d’Or. Travellers should visit the Island of Meinau. 1 Zell 2 Sing en— Near this place, on the summit of a rock, originally volcanic, is the Castle of Hobentwiel, which belongs to the Sovereign of 'Wurtemberg, and now serves as a State-prison. 1 Schaff hausen — The bridge here, con- structed by a common carpenter, named Grubenmann, once merited observation; but the ruthless hand of war has destroyed it. The public Libraries deserve notice. About one league from Schaffhausen, on the way to Zurich, is the cele- brated Fall of the Rhine: and Tra- vellers who wish to see the terrestrial rainbows which this stupendous Ca- taract exhibits, should visit it before nine o’clock in the morning. 2 Waldshut 1 Lauflenburgh— Here is another Fall of the Rhine ; but not equal in beauty to that of Schaffhausen. 12 Rlieinfeklen — Between Rheinfelden and Basle is Augst, anciently Augusta Rauracorum, where remains may lie traced of Roman Antiquities. 1 Basle. 182 posts. This is a flourishing commercial 2 o 2 426 APPENDIX. [ch. viii. city, supposed to contain 15,000 inhabitants. The objects best worth notice here are, the Arse - nal — the Bridge thrown over the Rhine- the Cathedral , a Gothic edifice which contains some An- tiquities, together with the Tomb of Erasmus — the Hotel de Ville, where there is an apartment painted by Holbein, who was a native of Basle — The Dance of Death , painted on the walls of the Cemetery, and supposed to have been done by a pupil of Hol- bein — and the public Library , which is embellished with paint- ings by Holbein, Antiquities, Natural History, etc. Basle con- tains a University: and among the best inns are, Les trois Rois, and La Cigogne. There is a singular custom in this city, that of setting all the clocks one hour too fast. ROUTE FROM AUGSBURGII TO RAT1SBGN. 1JS Aiclia— ' The ruins of the two Caslles of Wittelsbach, from which family descend the Princes of Bavaria, ren- der this small town remarkable. 1)4 Waidhofen 1 1 Geiscnfeld \\ Neustadt \\ Saal \'b. Rnlisbon. 8'/j posts. Ralisbon is seated on the Da- nube; and contains 22,000 inha- bitants. The objects best worth notice in this city are, its ancient Bridge , three hundred and fifty yards in length — the Cathedral — the Abbey of S. Emmeran — The Hotel de Ville — and the Library of the Prince ofThurnand Taxis, which is open to the public Mon- days, Wednesdays, and Fridays, from ten till twelve in the morn- ing, and from two till five in the afternoon. Persons who wish to see it on other days must apply to the Librarian. The town Libra- ry — an d the Library and Cabinet of the Abbey of S. Emmeran, likewise merit attention. The best inn is Les trois Heaumes. ROUTE FROM RATISBON TO MUNICH. 1 Eglofsheim 1 Buckhausen 1 Ergolspach 1)4 Lands hut — The objects best worth no- tice in this town are, the Palace — the Gothic tower belonging to the Church of S. Marlin — the Church of S. Job— the Church be- longing to the Domenican Convent — the Abbey of Seeligenthal — and the Maison de Ville. 1 Mospurg 1 Freysing — The objects best worth at- tention in this town are, the Ca- thedral — the Benedictine Church — the Chapel and Cupola of S. Peter’s— llie Abbey of Weyhen- Slephan — the Collegiate Church of S. Veit — and the Benedictine Lyceum. Principal inns, La Charrue, and Les sept Glands. \\ Garching % Munich. 8% posts. Munich, the capital ofBavaria, is seated on the Iser; and contains above 40,000 inhabitants. The Royal Residence in this elegant city, though unpromising on the outside, is magnificent within : and exhibits a fine collection of pictures ; among which are a hundred and thiity Miniatures, each of them being valued at two hundred louis-d’or. The Tapes- try in this palace, representing the exploits of Otho de Wittclsback ; the great Staircase; the Chapel, which contains a painting attri- buted to Buonaroti, together with the altar used by the unfortunate Mary, Queen of Scotland, during her imprisonment, and a particu- larly fine organ, alLmerit notice ; as do the Treasury (which a- bounds with splendid jewels) and 427 GERMANY — RATISBON, PRAGUE. the Antiquary.* Other objects -which deserve attention are, the Cabinet of pictures belonging to the Duke of Litchenburg , ci-de- vant Beauharnois — the Museum 0 f carved ivory - — the new The- atre — the paintings in the Church of Notre-Dame — the Church of the Theatins, which contains a good picture, by Sandrat, repre- senting the Plague atNaples — The Church of the English Nuns, who educate young Ladies gratis — the picture , by Tintoretto (most provokingly cut in two, for the convenience of the candle-snuffer) , in the Augustine- Church — the Church dedicated to S. Peter, which contains good Pictures — the Libraries of the King, the Theatins, and the Academy of Science — and the royal Cabinets of Medals and Natural History. Principal inns, E Aigle — Le Chevalblanc, etc. There are several pleasant Pro- menades in the vicinity of Mu- nich : the royal Villas of Nymp- lienburg, and Schlesheim, both situated at a short distance from the city, merit notice : Schlesheim contains a very large collection of pictures. ROUTE FROM RATISBON TO PRAGUE. I Korn [ i Nietenau j I Nenkirchen ] 1 Roez j 1 W almunchen ■ 1 Klentsch | 1 Temiz 1 Slorkau i Staab 1 1 Pilsen — Best inn, La Croix d’or\ l< 1 Rockizan \ I Man tli * The Slatnes lately found at 32gina (a Greek Island in the Mare sEgeum) now en- rich the collection of antiquities at Munich. They originally adorned the pediment of a temple consecrated to Minerva; and all re- present warriors , one female figure excepted. 1 Czernowitz 1 Zditz l Beraun 1 Dusnik 1 Prague. 16^ posts. ROUTE FROM VIENNA, THROUGH RATISBON AND BRUSSELS, TO OSTEND. 1 Bnrgersdorf 1 Sighartzkirchen 1 Perschling 1 S. Poelten 1% Moelk — -The abbey here merits notice. 1$ Kemmelhisch t Amstetten 1% Slrenberg 1 Ems 1$ Lintz — The last post in Lower Austria. This town contains 20,000 inhabi- tants. Best inn, L’Aigle noir. The women of Lintz are celebrated for their beauty. 1% ETerding — The first post of Upper Aus- tria. 1% Baversbach 1 Sicharding 1 Sharding 1 Passau— A fine town. The Cathedral and its organ, the Chateau , the Library de Lumber g , and the prospect from the Garden of the Convent of Mariahilf, deserve at- tention. 2 Vilzhofen 2 Platling 2 Straubing — The collegiate Church, the ci-devant Jesuits’ College — and the Carmelite Convent, which contains the Tomb of Duke Albert, merit notice; as does the Abbey Ober-Allaich, which is in the vici- nity of Straubing. 1 \ Psader 1% Ratisbon 1 % Schambach 1 Teiswang 1 Theining 1 Poslbaner 1 Feucht 1 Nuremberg — This city contains 30,000 inhabitants; and the objects heat worth notice are, the Cathedral , dedicated to S. Laurence, and adorned with beautiful painted glass —the Chapel of S. Anne — the Church of S. Claire , which contains a painting upon glass ex- ecuted in 1278 — the Chapel of Mendel, adorned with several good pictures— the Chapel Holzsckouhe- These statues form an interesting link in the chain of ancient sculpture ; as they are su- perior to the Egyptian style, though inferior to that of the most eminent Grecian sculp- tors. 428 APPENDIX. [ch. Till, rienne du S. Sepulcre—tlie impe- rial Chateau, embellished with va- luable pictures; for showing which, the Custode expects a florin — The Hotel de Ville: likewise embel- lished with good pictures; for show- ing which, the Custode expects two hopfs tucks — the Bridges — the Ar- senal, which contains two Cannon dated 14D9 — and the Copper Mills. Best inns, Le Cheval Rouge, and Le Coq Rouge. i Farnbach 1 Emskirchen 1 Langenfehl — Th ePosl-House here is a good inn. 1 Bossenheim 1JS Kilzingen t LV urtzburgli — The road from Nurem- berg hither is excellent. Wurtz-* burgh contains 10,000 inhabitants. The objects best worth notice are, the Chateau, remarkable for its staircase — the Citadel, in the centre of which is an ancient Temple — the Arsenal — the Chapel of S. Mary — the Cathedral — the Church be- longing to the Chapilre de Neu- munster — the Chapilre de Haug — the Great Hospital — the Con- vent de S. Benoit — the Picture- Gallery belonging to the Prince- Bishop, containing a Magdalene by Fesel — and the Library belonging to the University. Best inns. La Cour de Franconia — La Poste — Le Cygne. The most celebrated wines of Franconia grow near Wurlzburgh, namely, the Vin de Liesle, the Via de Stein, called Fin du S. Es- prit, and the Vin de Calmus. 1 Remlingen i Esselbach 1% Rohrbrunn 1 Besanbach i'i Gottingen 1 Hannau 1 Frankfort on the Mein 1 Koenigstein Wierges Limburg 1 W alnerod i Freylingen 1 Gulrolh 1 Weyersbusch Ukerot 1 Siegburg 1%, Cologne— This city is supposed to con- tain above 30,000 inhabitants; and among the objects best worth notice are, the Cathedral — the Church of the eleven thousand Virgins — the Church of the Maccabees — the Chapitre de S. Gereon — the Archi- episcopal Seminaty — the Hotel de Ville — the Arsenal — th eHiero- solomitanite Chapel, which con- tains a celebrated painting — and the Cathedral Library. Cologne is paved with basalt. — One of the principal inns is, Le S. Es- prit. i% Bergheim IS Linnig 1 Gangelt IS Reckem IS Tongern is s. frond 2 Tirlemont 2 Louvain — The inhabitants of this town are supposed to amount to 40,000. One of the principal inns is. The H6lel de Cologne. IS Cortenberg IS Bruxelles — This city, the capital of the Kingdom of the Netherlands , is wa- tered by the little river Senne, and supposed to possess about 15,000 in- habitants. Its fortifications are des- troyed ; but its ramparts, being plant- ed with trees, form pleasant walks round this city. The Park, or pub- lic Garden, is adorned with foun- tains and statues, and encircled by splendid buildings. The Palace, in which the Austrian Viceroy former- ly resided, contains a Picture-Gal- lery, and a public Library, rich in finely illuminated Manuscripts. The Hotel de Ville and its Gothic Towers — the Theatre — the Church of S. Gudule, and the Chapel of Stotre-Dame— the Church and Place de S. Michel — the Place de Sa- blon, and the canal, merit notice. Brussels is celeberated for its Manu- facture of Lace. Here are several good inns; namely, the H6tel d’Angle- terre— The Hotel de Belle-rue — The Hotel de Flandre, etc. This may be called a cheap city for permanent residence, though house- rent is dear. Not far hence, and in the neighbour- hood of Genappe, a market-town on the river Dyie, is the celebrated Plain of Waterloo; where a small Band of British Heroes vanquished the gigantic power ofFrance, and put to flight her ablest General. YJz Asche 1 % Alost 1% Quadrecht 1 Gand 2 Alteren 2 Bruges 2 Ostend— The Hotel de Ville, and some Pictures, by Flemish Masters, which adorn the Churches in this town, merit notice. The best inn is, Ni- — — cholson’s Hotel. 86 \ posts. Packets sail every Tuesday and Friday, weather permitting, from Colchester to Ostend ; and the common passage is about twelve hours. Packets usually sail twice a week from Ostend to Harwich; and the common passage, with a fair wind, is about twenty hours. Packets likewise sail from Os- 4 29 ch. viii.] GERMANY — CASSEL , COBLENTZ. tend to Margate ; and the common passage is about twelve hours. ROUTE FROM FRANKFORT ON THE MEIN, THROUGH CASSEL, TO MUNSTER. Vi, Friedberg 1 Butzhach 1 Giessen — The University of Giess was founded in 16(J7. The Library — the Pcedagogium — the Chateau — the Arsenal — and the Church of S. Pancrace merit notice. 1 Marburgh — The Library belonging to the University, here, is a fine one. The best inn is the Post- House, i X Holzdorf 1 Jessberg 1 Wabern 1$ Cass el — This city is supposed tocontain about 20,000 inhabitants; and the objects best worth notice are, the Chateau — the Palace— the Place de Frederic and the Statue by which it is adorned — the Arsenal — the Roman Catholic Church — the reformed Church— and the Statue of the Landgrave, Charles — the Opera-House — the Museuin- Fredericien — and the Pictures in the Hall of the Academy of Paint- ing. The principal inns are, the Hotel d'Angleterre (already mentioned) — Maupin’s — The Stockholm — and VAigle. 1 WertuB'eln 1 Oslendorf 1 Uichtenau 1 Paderborn—The Cathedral here — the ci-devant Jesuits' Church — and the University, merit notice. The source of the river Pader is in the middle of the town. 1 'h Nienkirchen 2 Warensdorf 1% Munster. 18 1 posts. This city contains 25,000 inha- bitants ; and the Church of S. Lambert — the episcopal Palace — the Cathedral -and the Chapel of Bernard de Galen , merit no- tice. VOYAGE ON THE RHINE FROM MAYENCE TO COBLENTZ. Persons who wish to make this excursion, should leave Mayence toward evening : and go either to Mittelheim or Langenwinkel. Next morning, about half an hour before sun-rise, they should walk to Johannisberg ; and from the Balcony of the Castle there, con- template the view. From Langenwinkel to Geisen- heim, the time occupied in going is about an hour ; and at the latter place, Travellers should disem- bark, and visit Neiderwald, a Garden belonging to the Count d’Oslein, and embellished with delightful prospects. From Gei- senlieiin to S. Goaer , the lime oc- cupied in going is about four hours ; and here Travellers should sleep ; rising, however, at five o’clock the next morning, in or- der to reach Coblentz by nine. Two boats, one to conVey a carriage, and the other to convey Passengers, usually cost about three Carolins ( seventy - two francs ) ; and for five Carolins, Travellers may be conveyed to Cologne, provided they do not choose to stop at Coblentz. The principal inns at Coblentz are Le Roi des Roma ins, and The Post-House ; and the objects most worthy of attention in this town are, the collegiate Church of S. Castor and the Fort of Ehrenbreitstein , originally a Ro- man work. EXCURSION FROM GOTTINGEN TO THE MINES OF HARTZ. Behind Kattlenburg rise the first hills which belong to the chain of the Hartz. Osterode — This town coutains 4,000 inhabitants — Klausthal — inn, La Couronne. This town contains 10,000 inhabitants. The richest Mines are La Caroline , which is 105 fathoms deep; and La Dorothee, which is 102 fathoms deep. 430 APPENDIX. [ch. yiii. The Georgestollen is a remark- able work. Ludwiger-Rechenhaus exhibits a collection of all the machines employed in the Mines. Two miles from Klausthal is the ancient imperial city of Goslar; which has only 7000 inhabitants ; though it contains from fourteen to fifteen thousand houses. This city is celebrated for its excellent beer called Gose, of which there are seven kinds ; and that most esteem- ed is called Beste Krug. Half a league from this city is the Ram - melsberg , the most ancient of the Mines of Ilartz. On the road leading from Isen- burg to Brocken, not Tar from the Chateau de Stappelnburg, is a beautiful prospect; and from the summit of Brocken a plain is dis- coverable, which extends seventy leagues , and contains five millions of people. From Brocken Travellers usual- ly go to Elbingerode , in order to see the Grotto called Bauhmans- hole. The Stalactites which a- dorn this Grotto are beautiful and various ; but the objects most interesting here are petrified hu- man bones, supposed to be ante- diluvian. At S. Andreasburgh, in this neighbourhood, was found a piece of silver, weighing eighty pounds. This excursion may be easily accomplished in a fortnight. CELEBRATED GERMAN BATHS. CARLSBAD. Carlsbad contains about 3,000 inhabitants, and several lodging- houses. The price of apartments varies according to the number of persons who frequent the Baths ; but a good suite of rooms, with several beds, seldom lets for more than ten florins a week. The best Traiteurs usually charge eight groschen per head for dinner. At the Salle de Boheme , and the Salle de Saxe , breakfast, either of coffee or cho- colate, costs half a kopfstuck and twelve kreutzers. For loading, or unloading a travelling carriage, the price is a goulden. To the Valet-de-Place , who goes round with the visiting-tickets of Iti- nerants, when they arrive, and when they depart, the fee is two gouldens. For reading the ga- zettes during the whole season, the price is one goulden. The drawers of water at each spring expect from every customer a kopfstuck or two, as a farewell present; and the waiters at the Salle de Boheme , and the Salle de Saxe , expect every person whom they have attended to give them at least one goulden as a parting compliment. The en- trance-money at the balls is one goulden per head: and persons who require a physician, while they use the Baths, commonly give him four or five ducats when his attendance ceases. The roads in this neighbour- hood are abominable. PYRMONT. The Pyrmont season commences about the end of June. The new lodging-house at the Baths is a good one; and the price of each apartment is marked over the door. There are several other lodging- houses. Dinner costs from eight to sixteen groschen per head, accord- ing to its quality ; and the public amusements here are numerous and various. CH. Till.] 431 GERMANY— CARLSBAD, SPA. SPA. The season at Spa commences about the end of May. Here are lodgings of all descriptions, and all prices. Traiteurs send out good dinners at four francs a head; and persons who like to dine at a Table d'Hote are particularly well served for three francs a head. Saddle horses cost, by the day, from five to six francs each. Spa, to lovers of gaiety, is plea- sant; though, compared with ma- ny other places on the Continent, expensive. ROUTE FROM VIENNA TO CARLS- BAD , THROUGH EGER AND ZWODA. i Enzersdorf 1 Stockerau IX Weikersdof 1 Meisau 1 Horn IX Goffritz 1 Scliwarzenau IX Shrems IX Schwarzbaeli I IX Willingau 1 *1 Budweis 2 Moldauthein 2 Pisek 1 Slrakonilz 1 Horazdiowitz IX Griinberg 2 Pilsen 2 Miess i Tschernoschin 1 Plan i 1 Sandau 1 Eger IX Zwoda IX Carlsbad — The best road to Carlsbad is this, through Eger and Zwoda. I32X posts. ROUTE FROM HANOVER TO PYR- MONT. IX Springe 1 Hameln— A strong place. 1 Pyrmont — The Chariot de Poste goes from Hanover to Pyrmonl during the 4 months of June, July, and August. I 3X posts. ^ ROUTE FROM HAMBURGH TO PYR- MONT. I, X Harburgh I IX Xostcdt IX Rolenburgh 1 Ottersherg IX Brerne 1-X Bassum 1 Barenburgh 1 Ucht IX Minden— -La Ville de Berlin is a good hotel. 1 Rinteln— This town contains a celebrated University. IX Pyrmont. 13X posts. ROUTE FROM BRUSSELS, THROUGH AIX-LA-CHAPELLE AND LIEGE, TO SPA. IX Cortenberg IX Louvain 2 Tirlemont 2 S. Trond IX Tongres 1 % Reckheim lX Sittart 1 Geilenkirchen 1 Juliers — The principal inn here i 3 La Cour Imperiale. The distance from Juliers to Cologne is two posts and a half. IX Aix-la-Cliapelle — This city contains above 27,000 inhabitants. The Ca- thedral, wherein is the Tomb of Charlemagne— the Hotel de Ville — the Baths — and the ci-devant Jesuits’ College, arc the ol jects best worth notice. Here are several inns. From Aix-la-Chapelle to Maestriclil is three German miles. 1| Batisse 1 Liege. 17 X posts. This city is watered by the Maes, and supposed to contain above 80,000 inhabitants: its Citadel commands a magnificent prospect: and the Hoteldes E tats — the Ho- tel de Ville — the Fountain in the Grande Place — the Cathedral, dedicated to S. Lambert — the Quay, on the banks of the Maes, and the Bridge thrown over that river, all merit notice. Liege boasts a delightful Promenade, called Coronmaes . Among the best inns are, L'Aigle noir , and La CourdeLondres. German Miles. 3 Spa, 432 APPENDIX. fcH. v.ii. ROUTE FROM VIENNA TO BADEN. 1 Neudorf 1 Baaden — Celebrated for its mineral wa- — * ters. 2 posts. ROUTE FROM VIENNA TO PRES- BURGII. 1 Schwachat 1 Fischament 3 Regelsbrunn 1 Teutsch-Allenburgh — The frontier town of Hungary. 1 Presburgh. 5 posts. This cily,in time past, the capi- tal of Hungary, is not supposed at the present moment to contain a- bove 22,000 inhabitants; though its population, previous to the removal of the seat of govern- ment to Buda, was estimated at 28,000. Presburgh is finely situ- ated on an eminence overlooking an immense plain, watered by the Danube ; and among the objects best worth notice here, are an equestrian Statue , by Donner, of S. Martin, which adorns the parochial Church — another Sta- tue , by the same sculptor, in the Esterhazy-Chapel — The Gover- nor s Palace — the royal Chancery — The Theatre — the Public Gra- naries — the Caserne — the royal Chateau • — the Cupola of the Church of S. Elisabeth — the royal Catholic Academy — and, the Lutheran Gymnasium. The public amusements consist of ope- ras, German plays, concerts, and balls. Here are some good private Libraries, and Cabinets of Na-, tural History ; together with a ce- lebrated Collection of w ry faces. The Chateau de Lanschitz, near Presburgh, is worth seeing ; as like- wise is the Chateau d’Esterhazy. ROUTE FROM TEUTSCH - ALTEN- BURGII TO BELGRADE. 1 Kittsee— A Royal Cl.ateau, 1 R.tckendorf 1 Wieselburgh 1 Hochstrass, or Hogstrass— A post and a half is sometimes charged here. 1 Raab — The population of this city is estimated at 13,000. Its Cathedral is magnificent. 1 Goenyo 1 Ais 1 Comorn— The Church which formerly belonged to the Jesuits merits notice. 1 Nessmely— Celebrated for excellent white wines. 1 Neudorf 1 Dorogh 1% Wereschwar 1" Ofen, or Buda— The population of Buda (called by the Germans Ofen) is esti- mated at 55,000, including the town of Pesth, from which it is separated only by the Danube. At Buda the Hungarian Regalia are kept: and the Crown which was presented in the year 1000, by Pope Sylvester II., to Stephen King of Hungary, is an imitation of that worn by the Greek Emperors. I Teleny I I Ereschin i Adony 1 Penttle IX Foeldwar 2 Paksch 2 Tolnau 1 Sekare— Celebrated for its wines ; which are deemed superior to Burgundy. IX Pobtaszek 1 Sekescoe 1 Mohacseh 2 Baranyawar 1 Laskafeld— The frontier town of Scla- vonia. 1 Esseck — Vestiges of the ancient city of Mursa are discoverable here. 1 Verra 1 W ukowar 1 Oppatowaz lx Ulok 1 Szuszek 2 Peterwaradin 1 Carlowitz-Unterleg 1 Poska 1 Cserevicz IX Banovze IX Semlin — This town contains a Health- Office for purifying letters and mer- chan dize which come from Turkey. 45X posts. From Semlin to Belgrade the time occupied in going is about one hour and a half. ROUTE FROM PRESBURGH TO KAS- CHAU ANI) TOE. AT. 1 Csekles 1 Sarfoe 1 Tyrnau — This town, adorned with nine large towers and several churches, makes a handsome figure at a dis- tance. The Cathedral — the Epii- GERMANY— TRIESTE. 433 2H. VIII.] copal Palace — and the Academie des Nobles, merit notice. IX Freys tiidlel 1 Rippyn 1 Nagy-Tapolcsany 1 Nitra-Sambokreth 1 Westenics 1 Baymozs— There are Hot Baths in this town. 1 Rudno 1 Turocz-Samhokreth i Nolscova IX Rosenberg — The Mineral Waters and the College here are celebrated. 1 Pentendorf 1 Okolisna 1 Vibodna 1 Lusivna 1 Horka 1 Leutschau — The Hotel de Ville is a handsome building : hut the town is ill supplied with water, i Biaczovez IX Berthod 1 Eperies — Finely situated, and famous for its wines. 1 Lemesau 1 Kaschau—K strong tow’n. The Gover- nor's House is a handsome build- ing. The Baths of Kaschau are celebrated; but the air is unhealthy. 1 Szinne 1 Wilmann Taliya — Famous for its wines. 2 Tokay — On the mountain of S. Therese, and in the vineyard of Szarwarsch, grow the best wines of Tokay, which, in stomach complaints, have been found particularly beneficial.* Hungary abounds in excellent fruit, beef, wild-fowl, and veni- son ; and the wines are so good, and at the same time so strong, that, to foreigners, they some- times prove dangerous. In Gallicia, and the Bukovine, Travellers ought to carry provi- sions with them ; as little beside straw can be procured at the inns. ROUTE FROM VIENNA TO TRIESTE. 1 Neudorf 1 Gunselsdorf 1 Neustadt 1 Neukirchen 1 Schott wien IX Moerzuschlag 1 Krieglach 1 Merzhofen 1 Brock 1 Reltelstein 1 Peggau 1 Gratz — This town, the capital of Styria, is supposed to contain above 33,000 inhabitants; and among the objects best worth notice are, the Imperial Chateau — the Maison des Etals— the Church de la Cour, and that dedicated to S. Catherine — the pa- rochial Church, adorned with a painting by Tintoretto — the ci-de- vant Jesuits' College — the two Co- lumns, and the Convent in the Fauxbourg of Muer — the Lyceum and its Library — and the Jolian- nmum. The Poor-house, which comprehends a general hospital, a lying-in hospital, a foundling hos- pital, an asylum for Lunatics, and anoLher for the Aged, is a most be- nevolent and useful institution. The promenades in and about this town are pleasant. Best inn, The Sun. 1 Kalsdorf 1 Lebering 1 Ehrenhausen IX Malirburg— This is the most populous town in Styria, Gratz excepted. 1 Feislritz 1 Gannowitz IX Cilli IX Franz 1 S. Oswald 1 Potpetsch IX Layback — This city, the capital of the Duchy of Carnioia, is supposed to con- tain about 11,000 inhabitants. The Cathedral, dedicated to S. Nicholas, merits notice; as does the Church of S. Peter, in the Fauxbourg. 1 Ober-Laybach 1 Lasse 1 Adelsberg — There is a celebrated Grotto in this town ; and another, called The Grotto of S. Madelaine, at a short distance. The Lake of Ziiknitz is not very far from AdeLberg. 1 Prawald 1 Sessana 1 Trieste \— This is a free port, with § spacious and safe Harbour, and a po- pulation estimated at above 30,000. a 32 posts. The objects best worth notice here are, the Mole — the Lazzaretti—llie Ca- thedral — the Greek Church — and the Roman Antiquities. Principal inn, 11 Buon Pastore. * The Hungarians have eight sorts of w ine f From Trieste to Fiume, another Austrian somewhat similar in flavour to Tokay, and free port, is a distance of live posts, frequently sold under that name. The best § The population of Trieste did not amount Tokay is seldom if ever sold. to more than IS, 000 a few years since. 2 p CHAPTER IX. PORTUGAL. Expense ot' going in a Post-Office Packet from Falmouth to Lisbon— Days appointed for sailing —Money of Portugal— Lisbon — Hotels — Population— Objects host worth notice— Cork Convent — Cintra— Water, eatables, and asses’ milk — Lodgings — Board — Fire-wood — Garden of the Convent of Necessitades — Public amusements— Price of draught-horses — Pass- ports, etc. — Route from Lisbon to Oporto — Ditto from Lisbon to Madrid. EXPENSE OF GOING IN A POST- OFFICE PACKET FROM FAL- MOUTH TO LISBON. Every cabin passenger usually pays for passage and board (wine, tea, and sugar inclusive), twenty- three pounds, and every steerage passenger fourteen pounds. Fe- male servants pay as cabin pas- sengers. Children, under twelve months old, go free of charge ; under four years old they pay as steerage passengers ; and above that age as cabin passengers. Lisbon- packets generally sail every Saturday; though every Fri- day is the time when they are ordered to sail, from April till October. The accommodations on board these vessels are excellent. I would not, however, advise passengers to use the sheets, blankets, and E illows, belonging to the packet; ut to provide plenty of their own : and this not merely to secure themselves from cold, and other unpleasant circumstances, during their voyage ; but likewise because blankets and down-pillows are par- ticularly needful at Lisbon. Inva- lids who visit this city during win- ter should wear very warm cloth- ing, and live in an apartment which fronts the south. MONEY OF PORTUGAL. 1. s. d A Ree. 10 Rees, equal to a half Vintem. 20 Rees, equal to a Vintem ; in En- glish money about.., 0 0 1 5 Vintems, equal to a Testoon, . . . 0 0 6 4 Tesloons, equal to a Crusade of Exchange -0 2 3 24 Vintems, equal to a new Cru- sade 0 2 8 10 Testoons, equal to a Milree, (1000 Rees) 0 5 7 48 Testoons, equal to a Moidore.. 17 0 64 Testoons, equal to a Joannes. ... 115 9 Accounts in Portugal are kept in Rees. LISBON. Lisbon, anciently called Oli- sippo , and in Portuguese Lisboa, is a flourishing commercial city, seated near the mouth of the Ta- gus, or Tajo, embellished by one of the finest Harbours in Europe, and supposed to contain 200,000 inhabitants. Among the objects best worth notice in this metropolis and its environs are, the Royal Resi- dence; the Exchange ; the India- House ; the Arsenal; and the equestrian bronze statue of Jo- seph I.; all of which adorn the Praca do Commercio — the pa- triarchal Church; and that be- longing to the Convent of S. Roche, which comprises an Asylum for Foundlings. In the last-named POR TU GAL —LISBON . 435 car. ri ;] Church is a Chapel dedicated to S. Roche., and considered as one of the most richly-decorated tem- ples of the Christian world. The picture above the altar is a parti- cularly well executed Roman Mo- saic : as likewise is another picture on the right side of the Chapel : the pavement is wrought in Mo- saic ; the pilasters are formed of porphyry, verde antique, lapis- lazuli, and other precious marbles: the doors are bronze, beautifully worked and gilt : the candelabra and the lamps are of solid silver ; and the altar is composed of lapis lazuli, amethysts, and gold; and ornamented with a scriptural Group in alto-rilievo , which is one entire block of silver.* Other objects that deserve attention in Lisbon and its environs are, the new Church , erected by the late Queen — the Quays -—the Aque- duct of Alcantara, which consists of thirty-five arches : the largest being 249 feet in width, and 332 in height. This magnificent struc- ture, built of white marble, was erected by John Y.—ihe Church and Convent of Belem , where the Sovereigns of Portugal are buried — (Belem exhibits a kind of Gothic arabesque architecture, unknown in other parts of Europe) — the Convent of Brancanas , which contains a picture of the blessed Virgin finely executcd--// 2 e Cork Convent on the summit of Cape S. Roche — and Cintra, which con- tains a good Inn, and exhibits ruins of a Moorish Palace. Cintra is deemed the best sum- mer-residence in the eiivirons of * When Jnnot commanded at Lisbon, tliis alto-rilievo, together with most of the church-plate in the city, was packed up, for the purpose of being conveyed to France; hut, owing to the suddenness and rapidity of bis retreat, this valuable plunder was left behind. Lisbon; but during winter and spring its excessive humidity ren- ders it unwholesome. f Th ePenka verde at Cintra is usually visited by Travellers. Lisbon possesses excellent wa- ter, good beef, fish, vegetables, fruit, and asses’ milk : but eligible lodgings are scarce and dear ; and a lady or gentleman can seldom board with a Portuguese family under seven shillings, English money, per day, lodging not in- clusive. Fire- wood likewise is dear at Lisbon . The Garden belonging to the Convent of Necessitades, situated at the foot of Buenos-Aires, affords an agreeable promenade; and the public amusements of this city are, the Italian opera, the Portuguese theatre, bull fights, and assem- blies at the houses of the English merchants. Among the principal inns are, Barnwell's English Hotel — Owens's Hotel— O' Keif ’s Hotel —L' Hotel Pieniontais — and Ltz Calcada de Estrella. PRICE OF DRAUGHT-HORSES, ETC. Draught-horses, or mules, in Portugal, are charged at eight testoons a pair, per league : the common mode of travelling is en voiturier ; and a calash, contain- ing two places, and drawn by two mules, may usually be hired for about fifteen francs a day, all ex- penses included. Travellers going from Lisbon to any other part of Portugal, should The Chapel of S. Roche is reported to have cost the Portuguese nation a million of cru- sades. f Many persons prefer Bellas to Cintra, be- cause it is more quiet, and less liable to fogs, than the last-named place. 436 APPENDIX, Ci [CH. IX. solicit, from the chief-magistrate of the quarter in which they lodge, a passport containing the names of the Travellers, the number of their horses, mules, and atten- dants ; together with a permission to carry fire-arms. Persons going to Spain must ap- ply for a passport from the Spanish Minister at Lisbon ; and this last- named passport, if presented to Spanish custom-house officers, and accompanied by a fee, prevents any examination of baggage. ROUTE FROM LISBON TO OPORTO. Time employed in travelling from Oporto to Almeida, 65 hours — from Oporto to Salamanca, 27 hours — from Salamanca to Yalla- I i dolid, 36 hours — from Valladolid 3 to Madrid, by Segovia and the I 3 Escurial, 50 hours. Segovia is well worth seeing, on account of its Aqueduct, a noble monument of antiquity, and in perfect preservation. Some au- thors suppose it was erected dur- ing the reign of Trajan ; but the Spaniards gravely assert, that it was the work of Hercules. 1 The Cathedral at Segovia is one 2 of the handsomest edifices of its 1st day AlveriaandCastenheda — About mid- way there is a ferry over the Tagus. The road lies between hedges of aloes and olives. 2d day Oita and Tagarro — A sandy plain, abounding with Indian figs. 3d day Venta — These Ventas are inns, es- tablished by order of government, at the distance of four or five Por- tuguese miles from each other. Go- vernment likewise regulates the charges at these inns, by a tariff" which is always exposed to public view. 4th day Alcoha^a. 5th day Leyria — Travellers may stop, dar- ing this day’s journey, at the Con- vent of Batnlha, which has a fine Gothic church, with a beautiful tower. The l'oad is good, and the country ador- ned with plantations of olives and fo- rests of cork-trees. 6th day Pombal and Pondes — Travellers should visit the Moorish Caslle on a hill near Pombal. 7th day Coimbra and Almahada — Coim- bra contains 13,000 inhabitants, and a University. Here are a Roman Bridge and Aqueduct, almost en- tire. 8th day Albergaria, Antonio, Venta, and Villanova — Travellers, during this day’s journey, pass two rivers, either on bridges or in a ferry. ^th day Oporto — This city, the largest in Portugal, Lisbon excepted, is wa- tered by the Douro, anciently the Duriu v, on which river gondolas, like those at Venice, are much used. Oporto is supposed to contain 30,000 inhabitants ; and has long been famed for its wines, of which it is said to export yearly twenty thou- sand pipes. 2 'he Quays here are magnificent. kind in Spain; and the Alcazar, or Castle, stands beautifully. ROUTE FROM LISBON TO MADRID. Leagues. 3 Aldea-Gallega — To this place Travellers . are conveyed on the Tagus, in a large boat; but it is not prudent to set out if the river be much agitated. 5 Canna 3 Ventas-Nuevas— The road crosses a brook. 4 Montemornovo 3 Arayolos — The road crosses another brook. 3 Venta del Durpie — From Aldea-Gallega to this place the road is tolerably good. 3 Estremos 3 Aleravazaz 4 Elvas — This is the last town of Porlu— ' gal. Here travellers are waited upon by the Custom-house Officers, and desired to declare what articles of commerce, and wiiat money they have with them, after having done which they receive an Albara. One mile from Elvas the road traverses a rivulet, which divides Portugal from Spain. 3 Badajos — This town, the capital of Es- tremadura, is entered, on the Por- tuguese side, by a bridge thrown over the Guadiana, anciently called the Annas. It is a place of high anti- quity . Here Travellers are liable to have their baggage examined. The road from Estxemos hither is, generally speaking, had. 3 Tal aver a del Arro j o 2 Lobon 2 Arrorogo de San Servan. 2 Merida — This town was built by Ihe Romans, and is entered on the Por- 2 1 1 [I S Ij SPAIN, 437 CH. X.] tuguese side by a bridge of sixty one arches, thrown over the Gua- diana. Here are several Antiquities, among which is an equestrian Sta- tue. 4 Venta del Desblado. 3 Meajadas 3 Puerta de Santa Cruz 3 Trujilo — The birth-place of Pizarro. 4 Jarajzejo — One hour distant from Ja- rajzejo Travellers are obliged to de- scend from their carriages, while the latter are conveyed, by the as- sistance of oxen, over a steep and rugged road; and after passing the river del Monte, on a bridge, car- riages are drawn by oxen up a hill, which belongs to the chain called Sierra de Guadelupe. Jarajzejo contains considerable vestiges of Moorish architecture. 4 Casas del Puerto 2 Almaraz — Half an hour distant from Almaraz is a bridge thrown over the Tagus, beyond which river the road ascends a hill, thence becoming good, and continuing so the whole way to Madrid. 2 Navalmoral — The first town of New Castile. 4 Calcada de Oropesa 4 Venta 4 Talavera de la Reyna 2 Sotocochinos 3 Bravo 3 Maqueda 2 Venta del Gallo 3 Santa-Cruz del Relamar 2 Valmajado 3 Naval-carnero 2 Mostoles — Here stands a Church, the inside of which is completely covered with gilding. 3 Madrid— On approaching this city car- riages are either driven through the 1(J3 Man?anares, or over it, by means of the line Bridge of Segovia. The country between Badajoz and Madrid is, generally speaking, uncullivaled, unless it be in the neighbourhood of towns and vil- lages ; and exhibits, to the left, a long chain of mountains. It is practicable so to arrange this journey that Travellers may go by S. Ildefonso, the Escurial, or Aranjuez. CHAPTER X. I SPAIN. | Money of Spain— Price of Post-horses, etc. — Articles particularly requisite for Travellers in I Spain— Route from Bayonne to Madrid — Saragossa — Valencia — Valladolid — Burgos — Popu- lation of Madrid— Objects best worth notice there — Literary Establishments — Promenades — Public amusements — Manufactures — Inns— Environs — Job -carriages — Gates and Streets — Route from Perpignan to Barcelona- — Climate of Barcelona — Population — Objects best worth notice— Inns — Promenades — Route from Barcelona to Saragossa — from Madrid to Grenada — Alhambra, and other objects Lest worth notice in the last-named city — Promenades — Climate— Route from Madrid to Malaga — Description of that city— Route from Madrid to Cordova, Seville, and Cadiz; together with a description of the three last-named cities. VALLE OF THE MOST CURRENT SPANISH MONEY IN FRENCH FRANCS. Francs. Doblon S3 63 Pistole 20 91 Halt-Pistole 10 45 Piastre 5 43 Real de a oclio 4 35 Escudo vellon 2 71 R»al de a quatre 2 17 Peseta Mexicana 1 35 PRICE OF POST-HORSES, ETC. The common charge, per post, is from ten to twelve reals for every draught-horse ; a post being about two Spanish leagues, or three hours, in length. A Postil- lion cannot legally demand more than two reals per post; but ex- pects a peseta, beside a dinner-, 2 p 2 APPENDIX. 438 or extra-money to provide one. Fora carriage furnished by a Post- master, the price is four reals per post. On entering and on quitting Ma- drid, and every other place where the King resides, Travellers pay a post-royal; which is double the price of a common post. The post on great roads is well served ; and the horses, when speed is compatible with safety, go remarkably quick : but the roads in Spain cannot, generally speaking, be called good ; though, throughout the whole Signory of Biscay, and in some districts near Madrid, they are excellent. The custom of taking journeys in a Coclie de Co Her as with six mules, ora Calesa with two, still predominates; but, for one per- son, a more economical way of travelling is to accompany the Or - dinario , or to ride on a Borneo , attended by a muleteer on foot. Yoiturins usually charge for a ca- lesa with two mules and their dri- ver, thekeep of mules and muleteer not inclusive, about fifteen francs a day : or for each mule, proven- der inclusive, two piastres a day. The common day’s journey of a Yoiturier is about eight Spanish leagues ; and each of these leagues contains 3,400 geometrical paces. It is impossible to travel com- fortably in Spain without a Ser- vant who understands the lan- guage ; because the Inns are so destitute of eatables, that Tra- vellers are compelled to purchase their provisions in the large towns through which they pass; and likewise obliged, generally speak- ing, to have them cooked by their own servant : a pot for boiling meat, with a cover and padlock, * Persons who wish to travel expedil'ously in Spain should ride on post-horses. Se- [CH. X. to prevent theft, is therefore re- quisite ; and travelling beds, in this country, are particularly needful. Travellers should avoid taking snuff, new muslins, or new print- ed cottons, amongst their bag- gage, as these articles are contra- band. Servants should have fire-arms.* ROUTE FROM BAYONNE TO MA- DRID. Miniundo — A beautiful entrance to the Pyrenees ; and the further the road advances the more picturesque is the scenery. S. Jean PiG de Port — Near a spring of remarkably fine water, between this town and Roncesvalles, is the spot which divides France from Spain. Roncesvalles — The road from Bayonne hither being dangerous for carriages, it is advisable either to go on mules, or to take the road by Ostariz , An- noa, Maya, Berrueta, Lanz, and Ostiz, to Pamplona. The village of Roncesvalles is supposed to be the spot where Charlemagne’s army was defeated, when the fa- mous Roland lost his life. 14 Pamplona — The Inn at Pamplona is in the square. This town was anciently called Pompelo. 3^ Otriz Jaffala— A good road, which continues to Portacillo. 4 Marailla 3 Vail terra 4 Cintronigo 5 Agreda — Here the baggage of Travellers is visited and plumbed by the Cus- tom-house Officers. Z'h Hinojosa 4 Zamayon 3^ Almazan--Here the road traverses the Douro on a stone bridge, near which there is a beautiful Pxomenade. 3 % Adradas 5 Lodares — The road lies over a mountain whose summit exhibits a large and well-cultivated plain. 2\ Bujarrabal 2Jj Tor remocha 3 Almodrones 2% Grajanejos 3 Torija 3 Guadalaxara 3jj Venta de Meco Torrejon de Ardoz — Here the road crosses the Xarama on a bridge. 4 Madrid. 82| leagues. veral saddle-horses are kept at every post- house. MADRID. 439 CH. X.] Many Travellers prefer going by Saragossa and Valencia ; or by Valladolid, Burgos, and Vittoria. Saragossa, the capital of Ar- ragon, is seated on the Ebro, formerly called the Iberus ; and contains a Cathedral and a Moor- ish Tower , which merit notice. Valencia, supposed to contain above 70,000 inhabitants, is de- lightfully situated in the most fer- tile part of Spain. Its Cathedral , once a Mosque, is adorned with fine paintings. The College of Corpus Christi contains a cele- brated picture ; and several of the Convents and Monasteries are adorned with good paintings. Hie Church of S. Nicholas— the University ~ — and the public Li- braries, merit notice. This city is lighted with hand- some lamps, patrolled by watch- men, and encompassed with high walls, nearly circular. Its cli- mate is so warm as to be op- pressive during the day, even in winter.* Valladolid, anciently called Pintia, contains a University ; and, in the Dominican Church of S. Paul, two celebrated pictures, by Cardenas. Burgos, the ancient capital of Old Castiie, is built partly on the acclivity of a Mountain, and part- ly on the banks of the Arlan con. Its Cathedral, one of the finest Gothic structures in Europe, and some other Churches, merit no- tice. Madrid, anciently denominated Mantua, is supposed to contain upward of 150,000 inhabitants. It has fifteen Gates, all composed of granite, and most of them handsome : its streets are clean, spacious, well paved, and well lighted ; and the entrance to this city, through the gate of Alcala, is strikingly magnificent. Among the objects which espe- cially deserve attention are — the Royal Residence, called the New Palace, which is sumptuously fur- nished, and adorned with fine pictures — the Royal Cabinet of Natural History f— the Churches of S. Isabella, S. Paschalis , S. Isidoro , S. Francesco de Sales , and S. Martino — the Convent of Las Descalzas Reales , which contains a fine collection of pic- tures — the Church of Las Salezas — the Royal Convent of S. Philip , in point of architecture one of the finest buildings at Madrid — the Domenican Church — and the Bridge , thrown over the Manca- nares. This city is enriched with a University, a Royal College, call- ed E studios Reales , an Academy of Arts, and other literary esta- blishments. The principal Promenades are —the Prado— a fine Street, called Alcala — the Gardens of the Casa del Campo — and the banks of the Mancanares. Tlie Spanish Theatre, the Bull- fights, the Tertullia , and the Re- fresco (the two last being card- assemblies, balls, concerts, or goutes ), are the principal public amusements. The Tapestry Manufacture ; the China Manufacture at Buen-Re- liro ; and the Glass Manufacture at S. Udefonso, merit notice. Several of the Inns at Madrid are good ; and one of the best is * Murviedro, erected on the site of the tiquity. ancient Saguntum, which was destroyed by f This Cabinet contains ancient Peruvian Hannibal, is about four leagues distant from pottery, very like that of Egypt. Valencia; and exhibits sevei'al vestiges of an- APPENDIX. [CH. X. 440 the Croix de Malte, in the Alcala. Provisions are cheap; and the common table-wines are those of La Mancha and Valdepenas. There are no Hackney coaches in this city ; but job-carriages may be hired by the day for eight or nine French livres. The objects best worth notice in the environs of Madrid are — the Buen-Re tiro , which is embel- lished with an equestrian Statue of Philip IV. by Pietro Tacca — the Palace of Aranjuez , and its Gardens — the Palace of S. Tide-' fonso, its Paintings, Sculpture, and Water-works — and the Es~ curial , which is situated about twenty English miles from Ma- drid, at the foot of the Guadarama mountains. This Palace, erected by Philip II., contains an immense collection of Pictures, some of which are classed among the finest existing ; it is likewise rich in sculpture, gems, and precious marbles; and among its buildings comprises a Church, splendidly ornamented ; and a Cemetery, called the Pantheon, where the Sovereigns of Spain, beginning with Charles V., are buried. The Escurial is likewise furnished with a Library particularly rich in He- brew, Arabic, and Greek manu- scripts. 11 The road from Madrid hither is excellent, and the country beau- tiful. ROUTE FROM PERPIGNAN TO BAR- CELONA. 2 Bollo — Near Fort Bellegarde is the Bar- rier between France and Spain; where every Traveller must produce a passport. This road exhibits a fine view of the Pyrenees. * The boohs in this Library are placed with the edges of the leaves outward; a singular method introduced into the Escurial 3 Jonquera 3 Figueras— A sandy soil, and cork-trees. Figueras is a tortified town. 3 Bascara — The l'oad traverses the lofty mountain of Cuessa-Regia, the envi- rons of which are beaulilul. 3 Gerona — Anciently Gerunda, The Ca- thedral, and the Arabian Baths, merit notice. 4 Mallorquinas 2% Hostalrich — Here Travellers ford a river which, after floods, is dangerous. 2 SanSeloni 3 La Roca 2j Moncade— The road skirts the hanks of the sea. 2 Barcelona — The hedges near this city consist of aloes. 30 leagues. Barcelona, anciently denomi- nated Barcino , from Hamilcar Barcas, by whom it was built, is a fine city, charmingly situated, in a delicious climate, near the mouth of the Llobregat ; and sup- posed to contain 111,000 inhabi- tants : its Port and Mole are handsome. The ruins of the Roman Town , and the Temple of Hercules — the Arabian Baths — the Cathedral , a light and ele- gant Gothic edifice — the Church of Sa. Maria— the Palace of the Captain- General— the Exchange — *and the Academy des Beaux Arts , merit notice. The Hotels in this city are good ; the streets well lighted at night ; and the Promenades pleasant; especially those called the Rembla, and the Esplanade. The Capuchin Gar- den , at Sarria, is worth seeing; and the Villas near Barcelona are numerous, and well situated. ROUTE FROM BARCELONA TO SA- RAGOSSA. 2 Martorell — Hannibal’s Bridge , and tri- umphal Arch , render this village remarkable : the present Bridge, however, was not erected by Hanni- bal; but built with lbe materials of that which he erected. by a learned Spaniard of the sixteenth cen- tury. The Casa Reale, situated in the Park of the Escurial, contains line pictures. SPAIN— GRANADA, 441 CH. X.j A fine and populous country. 2 San-Felix 3 Piera — Close to Piera, and isolated in the centre of a plain, rises Montser- rat, so called from the word Serras, a saw ; though its peaks are more like amultitudeofsugarloaves, placed on rocks; which, including these peaks, are above three thousand feet in height. This extraordinarily- shaped mountain displays fine grot- toes of stalactites : and, in its middle region, stands a Convent, where every stranger meets with a hospi- table reception ; and where Pilgrims, if poor, whether men or women, are fed lor three successive days, whenever they visit the Convent; and if medical assistance be required, they receive it gratuitously. The Hermitages of Montserrat, twelve in number, merit notice; as do the al- most endless variety of evergreens, and deciduous plants with which the mountain abounds. Near the town of Cardona is a lofty hill, consisting of one block of Gem- ma! Salt, with which candlesticks, boxes, etc., are made : and this sub- stance is transparent, like rock-crys- tal. 3 Igualada — The road traverses the river Noya three times. The Inn at Igua- lada is a good one. 3 Santa-Maria 3 Cervera — This town is situated in a charming valley, and contains a Uni- versity. 2 Tarraga— An excellent inn. The price of provisions, and of the Ruido de Casa, is fixed at every inn by the Arancel , or tariff. 4 Mollerusa 4 Lerida — Anciently called llerda.— Near this place Caesar was defeated by one of Pompey’s generals. There are several Antiquities at Lerida. 5 Fraga . 4 Candas'nos 3 Bujarabos 3 Venta de S. Luca 3 Aguilar— Here the road crosses the river Cinca. A fine country well cultivated. R?nd good. 3 La Puebla 3 Saragossa — This town was called by the Romans Ciesar-Augustce. 51 leagues. ROUTE FROM MADRID TO GRA- NADA. 8 Aranjuez — Viz. 2J4 leagues to Los An- geles, 3 to Espartinas, 2JJ to Aran- juez, whence to Madrid the road is excellent. 2 Ocanna — Windmills announce to the Tra- veller that he is entering the pro- vince of La Mancha, where the cus- toms and manners described by Cer- vantes still prevail ; and where every peasant talks of Don Quixote and San- cho. At the Venta de Quesada is a well, distinguished by the name of the Knight.* — Thus i« genius im- mortalized, even by the lowest of the people ! 3'h La Guardia — The Church here con- tains celebrated pictures by Angelo NardA 2 Tembleque 2 Canada de la Higucra 2 Madridejos 3 Puerta de Lapiche 2 Villalta — Here Travellers either drive through the Gijuela, or cross it on a bridge. 2! Venta de Ouesada 2\ Man^anares 2’ N S. de la Consolacion 2 Valdepenas— The wines of Mancanarcs and Valdepenas are much liked. 2 Santa Cruz — The plain of La Mancha be- gins near Tembleque, at La Concep- tion de Almaradiel, the first of the new villages of the Sierra Morcna. The houses, surrounded with cypress- trees, which are seen on this road, belong to German families who came hither to people the country. 2 Almaradiel 3 Las Correderas 3 Las Carolinas 2 Guarraman 2 Baylen 2'k Casa del Rey 2% Andujar 5 Jaen— Here Travellers are conveyed across the Guadalquivir ( anciently the licetis ), in a ferry. 3 Cambil 3 Alcala la Real— This place abounds with citrons, figs, and oranges; and its Abbey is the most amply endowed of any one in Spain. 4 Pinos Puente — Here the Road enters the celebrated Vega, or plain of Grana- da ; and crosses the small river Cu- billas. 4 Granada . 7l'/j leagues. Granada, not long since, was supposed to contain 80,000 inha- bitants; but now the population is estimated at only 50,000. The Cathedral here, a large and ve- nerable pile, is embellished with line paintings, by Don Pedro d'A- thanasia, Spagnolelto, Risuenno, and John of Seville. The Car - iuxa — Los Angelos — S. Domingo * This well communicates with the sub terraneous river Guadiana. 442 APPENDIX. [ch. x. — and the Capuchin Convent, possess good pictures ; and the Collection of Moorish Antiqui- ties merits notice. The Paseo is a pleasant Prome- nade ; so likewise is that on the banks of the Xenil ; and the cli- mate is temperate and healthy. Alhambra, justly the pride of Granada, stands on a lofty emi- nence between the rivers Douro and Xenil, and derives its name from the red colour of the mate- rials with which it is built ; the word Alhambra signifying the Red House. This ancient Palace of the Moor- ish Kings, in point of workman- ship, perhaps the most beautiful structure extant, is so well de- scribed by Townsend, that I can- not do better than copy his ac- count of it. “ The ascent to this edifice (unique in its style of architec- ture), is through a shady and well -watered grove of elms, a- bounding with nightingales. You enter first into an oblong court of 150 feet by 90, with a basin of water in the midst, of 100 feet in length, encompassed by a flower border. At each end is a colonnade. Hence you pass into the court of the lions, so called because the fountain in the mid- dle is supported by lions. It is adorned with a colonnade of a hundred and forty marble pillars. The royal bed-chamber has two alcoves adorned with columns, and a fountain between them in the middle of the room ; adjoin- ing are two hot-baths. The great hall is about forty feet square, and sixty in height, with eight windows and two doors, all in deep recesses. Between this and the oblong court is a gallery of ninety feet by sixteen. All these lower apartments have fountains, and are paved either with tiles or marble, in checkers. The idea of the ceilings is evidently taken from stalactites, or drop-stones, found in the roofs of natural ca- verns. The ornaments of the friezes are arabesque, and per- fectly accord with the Arabic in- scriptions, which are here suited to the purpose for which each apartment was designed. Thus, for instance, over the entrance to the hall of judgment, is the fol- lowing sentence : Enter , fear not; seek Justice , and Justice thou shall find. A handsome staircase leads to a suite of apart- ments intended for the winter.” Adjoining to Alhambra is a Pa- lace begun by Charles V., but never finished; and near it an- other Moorish Palace, called Xe- nalarlife, the entrance to which is adorned by two cypress-trees, reputed to have flourished during five ages ; they are immensely large. ROUTE FROM MADRID TO MALAGA. 52 i Andujar — See the preceding route. 6 Porcuna 5 Bajena 4 Lucena 3]£ Alameda 3^ Anleijuera 3 Venta de Cantarrajan 4 Malaga. 78g leagues. Malaga, anciently called Ma- laca , and supposed to contain above 45,000 inhabitants, is ad- orned with a handsome Cathe- dral , the interior of which is beautifully finished ; the high al- tar and pulpit are of fine marble; and the choir is ornamented in a style of peculiar elegance. The white wine of the moun- tains near Malaga, and the red wine, called vino tin to, are much OH# x.] SPAIN — CORDOVA, esteemed, and the fruits are ex- cellent. Some vestiges of antiquities may be discovered here. ROUTE FROM MADRID TO CORDO- VA, SEVILLE, AND CADIZ. | 52£ Andujar— See the route from Madrid to Granada. I 3 ^ Aldea del Rio | 3X Carpio 5 j Cortijo de Casa Blanca [ 2% Cordova. 61-- leagues. Cordova, anciently denomi- nated Corduba , and reputed to contain near 30.000 inhabitants, was built by the Romans, and subsequently became a Moorish capital. It stands in a charming situation, and is watered by the Guadalquivir. A considerable part of the Roman Walls still remain ; and the Cathedral , once a mosque, is a splendid, though a fantastic edifice. According to Strabo, Corduba was founded by Marcellus, and the first Roman Colony establish- ed in Spain ; it boasts of having given birth to Seneca and Lucan. 3 Cortijo de Mango-Negro [ 3 Carlolta 4 Erija f 3 Louisiana I 3% Venta de la Portuguesa J 2% Carmona I 3 Jarazone la Vieja I 3 Seville. ■ 8 S -5 leagues. Seville, anciently denominated flfispalis, is supposed to contain above 80,000 inhabitants ; and ■possesses an excellent inn, called The Posada de la Baviere. The city stands on the banks of the Guadalquivir, in a rich and beau- tiful plain : its walls, like those of > several Spanish towns, are cir- cular, and seem of Moorish con- SEVILLE, CADIZ. 443 struction. Some of its gates are handsome ; and its Cathedral , a magnificent edifice, is embellish- ed with a Tower deemed a chef- d' oeuvre of architecture. In the Cathedral are some very fine pic- tures ; that called The Gamba, and painted by Luis de Vargas, especially merits notice, as do those of the admirable Murillo, who was born at Seville. The Organ is a very fine one ; and the Episcopal Library consists of 20,000 volumes. The Hospicio de la Caridad contains the mas- ter-piece of Murillo ; and the Capuchin Church is likewise en- riched with several of his works. The Church of Santa Cruz con- tains a fine picture, by Don Pe- dro de Campanna, of the Descent from the Cross; the Franciscan Convent is embellished with paint- ings by Murillo ; as are many other Convents, Churches, ana private houses. The Jesuits’ Col- lege, now the Inquisition, is a handsome structure ; the Alcazar , or ancient Moorish Palace , and its Garden, deserve notice ; as do the Exchange , the University, the Cannon Foundery , the Aque- duct, and the Alameda , or public walk. One league distant from this city, at the ancient Italica , are ruins of an Amphitheatre. 2 Dos Hermanns 3 Vcnla vieja de Bran 4 Caberas 3 j Cortijos de Romaniana 3% Xeres de ia Front era — This town is sup- posed to stand on the site of the ancient dsti-Regia, near which spot Roderic, last Monarch of the Visigoths, lost the battle that put a period to their dominion in Spain. 2^ Puerto de Santa Maria 3 La Isla de Leon 3 Cadiz. 1133f leagues. Cadiz, anciently called Gadcs , 444 APPENDIX. [ch. xi. was founded by the Phoenicians, and afterward became a Roman colony. It contains 80,000 inha- bitants ; is the most flourishing commercial city of Spain, and possesses a safe and very capa- cious harbour. Among the ob- jects best worth notice at Cadiz are — the New Custom-house — the Great Hospital — the Capu- chin Church , adorned with an Ecce Homo , liy Murillo — the Old and the New Cathedral — the Theatre — the Mall — and the Ramparts . The public amusements consist of bull-fights, French, Italian, and Spanish theatrical exhibi- tions ; assemblies, balls, concerts, and parties of pleasure to Chi- clona, a small town four leagues from Cadiz. The best wines in this neigh- bourhood are Xeres and Paca- retti. Travellers who visit Cadiz should take especial care to be supplied with water from the ad- jacent village, called Puerto de Santa Maria. The churches and convents of Spain are peculiarly rich in plate and precious stones; but these treasures, however splendidly they may decorate an altar, do not deserve to be named among the objects most worthy of a Tra- veller’s attention : persons who have sufficient leisure, however, would do well to examine them. CHAPTER XI. KINGDOM OF THE NETHERLANDS. PROVINCE OF HOLLAND. Money— Post-horses— Treekschuyts, etc.— Expense of travelling post from Naardento Ams- terdam— Expense of travelling in a Treckscbuyt, etc.— -Dulch Inns — Route from Amster- dam to Cleves and Cologne— and from Cleves to the Hague, Rotterdam, and Helvoetsluys —Prices, per Packet, from Helvoetsluys to Harwich— Days appointed for sailing — Route from Amsterdam to Munster— from Amsterdam to Emden— from Amsterdam to Utrecht, Bois-le-Duc, and Maestrich — from Amsterdam to Leyden, the Hague, and Rotterdam— from Nimeguen to Rotterdam and Helvoetsluys— from Nimeguen to Bois-le-Duc and Breda — from Bois-le-Duc to Anvers — from Bergen-op-Zoom to Anvers — from Amsterdam to Ham- burgh— and from Hamburgh to Amsterdam, by Groningen and Leuwarden — Population of Amsterdam— Objects best worth notice— Public Amusements— Carriages—Inns— Villages of Broek and Saardam — Dock-yard belonging to the latter— Price of a boat to go and return from Amsterdam to Saardam — Voyage from Amsterdam to Utrecht. MONEY. 1. s. d. A stiver, in English money about 0 0 1 A gilder, or florin, 20 slivers 0 1 9 A rix-dollar, 2^ florins p 4 6 A dry-gilder, 60 stivers 0 5 4 A silver ducatoon, 3 florins 3 stivers 0 5 8 A gold ducat, 20 florins i 1C 0 In Belgium the greater part of the currency is French money. POST-HORSES, TRECKSCHUYTS, ETC. Persons who resolve to travel post through Holland, should ne- ch. xi.j HOLLAND — POST-HOUSES, etc. 44 5 deavour to procure from the first post-master who furnishes them with horses, a paper called Un billet de Posie, which enables them to proceed without unne- cessary delays, and precludes dis- putes relative to the number of their horses. A Traveller who procures this Billet , pays to the post-master who gives it the whole expense of his horses, from the place whence they set out to their journey’s end; and presents a few stivers to his secretary. The usual price charged jby post-masters for every draught- horse, is one florin an hour.* EXPENSE OF TRAVELLING POST I FROM NAARDEN TO AMSTERDAM ) (TWO DUTCH MILES IN DIS- r TANGE), WITH THREE HORSES. Florins. Stivers. I Horses 12 0 I Master of the post-carriages 0 6 I Greasing wheels. ... 0 G Driver 1 0 Tax for the roads ... 1 0 14 12 Travelling post in Holland is always expensive, and often dis- agreeable; for many of the roads ire had : neither ought it indeed ;o be attempted during spring and mtumn, on account of the rains tnd fogs, which render almost ■every road so wet and muddy, as :o be dangerous ; and this circum- stance, united to the exorbitant sums usually charged for bag- gage, makes*Dulch Diligences in- eligible ; therefore, the general mode of travelling is in Treck- schuyts.or covered barges. These » vessels contain two apartments, the after one, called the roof, q being neatly fitted up, and appro- priated to the best company ; the other, to servants, etc. The roof holds from eight to twelve per- sons, according to the size of the vessel ; the inferior apartment from forty to fifty. A Treck- schuyt moves precisely at the rate of four English miles an hour ; and is drawn by one horse, ou whose back rides a lad, called the Conductor. This lad blows a hern as the signal of departure ; and uses the same instrument when- ever he wishes to have a draw- bridge lifted up, and whenever he descries another vessel. Places in the roof should be secured a day before they are wanted. Places in the inferior apartment cost about six stivers each per mile ; and places in the roof are something dearer. A roof- pas- senger is allowed to carry one hundred pounds weight of bag- gage, cost free. The Conductor expects from every Passenger about one stiver. Persons who wish to travel fru- gally and pleasantly in Holland, should not encumber themselves with much baggage : for Dutch porters are so exorbitant in their charges, and at the same time so notoriously addicted to theft, that it is necessary to make a bargain with them respecting price before trunks are removed; even from one Treckschuy t to another ; and equally necessary never to lose sight of a trunk while it continues in their possession. The cheapest way of transporting heavy bag- gage from one town to another is by means of vessels called Packet- boats. Dutch Inns are, generally speak- ing, clean and good : but it is re- * Two leagues of Holland make one post, and two miles of Holland (about nine English miles) equally make one post. 2Q 446 APPENDIX. quisite for persons who intend to reside long at any of them, to make an agreement with the inn- keeper for the price of apart- ments, etc. ROUTE FROM AMSTERDAM TO CLEVES AND COLOGNE. 2% Naarden — Travellers who come from Germany find the first Treckschuyts here. Naarden stands on the Zai- der-Zee. jv Amersfort— This town is famous for its manufactures of dimity and bomba- sins. 2 Arnheim — The ramparts here are pretty. 2 Nimegnen — The Maison de Ville, where the peace of Niimeguen was concluded in 1678. merits notice; as does the old chateau of Falkenhof, built by Charlemagne. 2 Cleves — The. Castle here-tlie Hotel de Ville— the lofty Tower, from the summit of which above twenty-four towns are discoverable — and the Pro- menades, all merit notice. Calcar \\ Xanlen 'ii Bheinbergen i Hochslras 1 Undingen 2 N.'us 2 Dormagen \\ Cologne — See, under Germany, the route from Vienna, through Ralisbon and - — . Brussels, to Ostend. 23 miles of Holland. ROUTE FROM CLEVES TO THE HAGUE, ROTTERDAM, AND I1EL- VOETSLUYS. 2 Nimeguen 2 Wa gen in gen 5 Utrecht— This is a handsome town; and the ruins of its Cathedra l merit no- tice; as does its University (though inferior to that of Leyden), and its botanic Carden. Utrecht is supposed to contain above 30,000 inhabitants. 4 Alphen 2 Leyden— The population of Leyden is estimated at 48,000. Its streets are spacious, clean, and well paved; its buildings elegant; and its public in- stitutions useful. It stands on the an- cient bed of the Rhine, and the street 1 (11 which contains the Sladt-house is of an extraordinary len-th. The Sta di- house, and the Hospital, in this street, are fine buildings; and the Halls of the former exhibit good pic- tures; the most celebrated of which (by Lucas Van Leyden), represents 1 the last Judgment Another picture, interesting on account of its subject, represents the famishing Inhabilanls of Leyden, after they had compelled the Spaniards to raLe the siege of the town, eagerly devouring the relief 1 which was brought to them by their countrymen. I The University of Leyden, founded in 1575, is the most ancient in Holland; and has had among its professors and P{ scholars some of the most learned men in Europe. It contains many objects of interest. The botanic Gar- den merits notice; and the public Library is famed for its collection of oriental manuscripts. In the centre of Leyden isn Tumulus, said to have ' been erected by Hengist, the Saxon ij r 1 Prince : it commands an extensive 11 View. * 2 The Hague — This town, or to speak more correctly, this village, is supposed to contain near 4i), 000 inhabitants. The Voorboul is a fine street, adorned with several elegant buildings, and the to Vyverburgh is a handsome oblong |q square. The Hague is paved with light-coloured bricks, which are kept HI remarkably clean. Public entertainments here are reduced : to the Dutch Theatre, opened only tw ice a week; and the price for ad- ll millance to lire boxes is something ,i more than half an English crown- About one English mile from the Hague, in The House in the Wood, is the r national Cabinet of Pictures; w hich conlains a celebrated candle-light |) piece, by Schalken, the subject being t a portrait of William III. of England. Two English miles from the Hague is Scheyeling, where the Sladt-holder ( embarked when he fled from his coun- try. The road between the Hague i 1 and this village is perfectly straight, j ahoutlwenty paces broad, and shad- ed by beeches limes, and oaks, of so I extraordinary a magnitude, that they , form to appearance an impenetrable I forest. 3 Folterdam— This city, reputed to con- tain 56,000 inhabitants, stands near the conflueiice of the Rolte with Iby Maes. * Hacrlem is only fifteen English miles distant .from Leyden; and well worth visit- fug, on account of the Organ placed in its principal Church, and said to he the finest instrument of the kind existing. Travellers may hear it at any lime, by paying a ducat to ; the Organist, and a fouple of guilders to the Bellows-hlowers. The length of the largest pips is thirty-two feet, and its diameter sixteen inches; the Organ lias sixty stops, four separations, two shakes, tw'o couplings, and twelve pair of bellows. Haerlem disputes with Mentz and Stras- burgb the honour of having invented the Art of Printing; and its Bleacheries are famed lor the whiteness they give to linen. The city is neat and well built. 447 cir. xi.] HOLLAND— HELVOETSLUYS, etc. The principal streets are intersected by- canals, deep enough to receive vessels of three hundred tons burden; and the Boom-Quay is a tine street : but the buildings at Rotterdam are com- pletely Dutch, and consequently in- elegant. The Market-place is adorned with a bronze statue of Erasmus, who was horn here. Concerts are the favourite amusements in this city. The Play-house is small, but neat. 4 Helvoetsluys— At this Port Travellers frequently embark for England. "21 miles. PRICES, PER POST-OFFICE PACKET, FROM HARWICH TO HELVOET- SLUYS; AND VICE VERSA. [ Cabin, or whole Passenger ... 2 14 0 ^Half-passenger ......... 1 7 6 -^Four-wheeled carriage, the charge | for shipping it being paid by the owner 6 G 0 After-cabin, if a Family talelonging to the University merits notice; and the Plantage is a pleasant Promenade. A variety of petrifactions are found in the vicinity of this town. 2 Strohbusch 2 Dockum 2 Ltuwarden 1 Francker 1 Harlingen — This is a handsome town. 14 Amsterdam — In order to reach this city, it is necessary to cross the Zuidcr- — Zee. 52^ miles. ROUTE FROM BERGEN-OP-ZOOM TO ANVERS. 4 Puten 4 Anvers . 8 miles. ROUTE FROM AMSTERDAM TO HAMBURGH. 118 Zwolle 4 Harden berg 4 Nienhaus 3 Lingen 2 Hoselunen—TV’e Castle of Clemens - werth, in this neighbourhood, merits notice. 2 Loeningen 2 Kloppenburgh 3 Wildshausen 1 Delmenhorst 1 Breme 1 Obern-Neuland 1 Fischerliude 3 Kloster-Seven — The Convention of 1757 was concluded here. 4 Buxtehude n Kranz 3 Blankcnsee — The situation of this Village is picturesque. 2 Hamburgh — It is necessary to cross the Elbe in order to reach Hamburgh. 4G& miles. ROUTE FROM nAMBURGII TO AM- STERDAM, THROUGH GRONINGEN AND LEU WARDEN. 4’a Hornburgh 4j[ Bremervoerde 3 Elsflelh —Here the road crosses the Weser. 7 Barnhorst IS Ape 4 Detron Amsterdam, situated at the confluence of the Amstel with a rivulet called the Wye, is a forti- fied town, about nine miles in circumference, and supposed to contain 21 7,000 inhabitants. The S tad t- House, a justly celebrated edifice, is embellished on ihe out- side with statues, among which is a fine colossal Atlas. The Hall where criminals receive sentence, and the Great Hall, together with its bronze Gates, merit notice. The Burgomaster’s Apartment contains a fine picture, by Ferdi- nand Bol, representing Fabricius in the camp of Pyrrhus; and an- other of Curius at his frugal re- past. The Council- chamber is adorned with paintings; one of which, by Vanderhelst, repre- sents the entertainment given by the Burgomasters of Amsterdam to the Ambassadors of Spain, in consecpience of the peace of Mun- ster. Another picture, by Van- dyck, represents an assembly of the States. The Stadt-house stands upon piles, in number said lo be 43,659. The New Church, near the Stadt-house, contains Monu- ments to the memory of several distinguished Dutchmen; and the Old Church , called Oudenkirk , is enriched with an Organ little eu. mk] DENMARK. 449 inferior, either in size or excel- lence, to that at Haerlem. This Church likewise contains line painted glass, and some riionu- \ inents. Among other public build- i ings, worth notice, are — the In- dia House — the West India House — the Exchange— the Bank 1 — the Town Arsenals — the Ad - \ mi rally, and its Arsenal — and r the Orphan Asylum . The Syn- I agogue of the Portuguese Jews ti is a fine one: and the Jews have a Theatre in this city, and repre- sent Hebrew plays : there is like— wise a Dutch Theatre, and also a ' French one; but both are ill at- tended, Concerts being the fa- 1 vourite public amusement. The q streets of Amsterdam are, gene- 2 rally speaking, intersected by ca- ll nals, and adorned with trees. The { carriages commonly used are fast- ened to a sledge, and drawn by one horse; and these vehicles may be hired for half the price of those which run upon wheels. Two of the principal inns are — The Arms of Amsterdam , and The Doelen. Near this city stand the pleasant Tillages of Broek and Saardam ; and in the Dock-yard belonging to the latter, Peter the Great of Rus- sia worked as a common carpen- ter. The cottage wherein he lived, while thus employed, is still shown to Travellers. A boat, to go and return from Amsterdam to Saardam, usually cosLs from six to nine florins. The voyage from Amsterdam to Utrecht occupies eight hours; and is the most pleasing, in point ofscencry, that can be undertaken in Holland. The Dykes of this country, con- structed to preserve it from inun- dations, are stupendous works, which highly merit notice. CHAPTER XII. DENMARK. Money of Denmark — Price of Post-horses, etc.— Day-hook— Passports, etc. — Route front Hamburgh by sea to Helsingoer, and thence by land to Copenhagen— Route by land lo Luheck, or Kiel, and thence by sea to Copenhagen— Expense attendant upon crossing the Great Belt — ditto upon crossing the Little Belt — Copenhagen — Harbour — Population — Naval arsenal — other objects best worth notice— Inn — Environs— Route from Copenhagen to Hamburgh — Route from Copenhagen to Golhenborg, MONEY OF DENMARK. 1. s\ d. A skilling, in Eng. money about 0 0 0;4 16 skillings, called a mark 0 0 9 A crown, 4 marks 0 3 0 A rix-dollar, 6 marks 0 4 6 A ducat, 1 1 marks. ........ 0 8 3 A hatt-ducat, 14 marks .......... 0 10 6 A mark is an imaginary coin. The Danes usually keep accounts in rix-do liars. PRICE OF POST-IIORSES, ETC. The customary 7 price of perst* horses in Denmark is sixteen skil- lings a horse, per German mile. Every postillion is entitled to four skillings per German mile; and for a carriage, furnished by a postmaster, the price is two skil- lings per German mile. 2 450 APPENDIX. [ch. xff. In the Isle of F unen the price is only ten shillings a horse, per Ger- man mile, during summer; hut in winter, something more. In Zeeland the price is fifteen shillings a horse, per German mile. In addition to the price of post- horses, two shillings and a half per mile are paid at ever y barrier. To every English carriage, con- taining four places, post-masters have a right to putsix horses; and to every English carriage, contain- ing two places, four horses : but three persons going in an open post-chariot of the country, and having only one trunh, are not compelled to tahe more than one pair ofhorses. Persons who travel post in Den- marh, and in the Duchy of Hol- stein, receive, at every post-house, a billet, containing the hour, and even the moment of their depart- ure from that station. Postillions are bound to drive at the rate of one German mile an hour ; and dare not stop, nor even srnohe, without.permission from the Tra- veller; who, on changing horses, gives his billet to the post-master ; and at the same time mentions whether the postillions have be- haved well or ill; and, in the lat- ter case, they are severely punish- ed. At every post-house there is a day-book, in which the Traveller is required to write his name, the hour of his arrival, and that of his departure; making, onthemargiu, bis observations, and complaints, if he think himself in any respect aggrieved. No innkeeper can allow a Tra- veller to leave his house before this useful regulation has been com- plied with ; and the da^-books of every inn are examined once a month by Government. Passports are always requisite in the Danish Islands : they are presented to the officer on guard, at the gate of every city; ana, af- ter having been inspected and signed, they are returned to their owners by a soldier, who solicits a trifling gratuity for his trouble. Persons who like a sea voyage may embark at Hamburgh, in a vessel bound to the Baltic, and land at Helsingoer ; where these vessels cast anchor ; and where carriages returning to Copenhagen, which is only five German miles distant, may be met with constantly Another way of accomplishing this journey is to travel by land either to Lubeck, or Kiel; and then proceed by sea to Copenha- gen. From Hamburgh to Kiel is twelve German miles ; from Hamburgh to Lubeck eight; and the voyage from the lat er port to Copenhagen is shorter than from Kiel : but at Lubeck Travellers pay for every trunk a tax of one rix- dollar; and at Kiel considerably less . EXPENSE ATTENDANT UPON PASS- ING THE GREAT BELT. Marks. Skillings. Embarkation of a ca'rriage. ... . 1 8 Passage of ditto .....21 0 Taxes, etc. 3 2 Drink-money for the men who embark a carriage .... 1 2 Fees to soldiers w ho have the charge of passports 0 13 Landing acarriage, independent of drawing it from the water side to the post-house ..... . 0 12 Drink-money for Lhe boatmen 1 0 The length of this passage is about four German miles. EXPENSE ATTENDANT UPON PASS- ING THE LITTLE BELT. Marks. Embarkation and passage of a carriage. 9 Disembarkation of ditto 3 The length of this passage, be- 45 i ch. xii.] DENMARK— COPENHAGEN. tween Snoghoe and Middlefart, is only half a German mile : but be- i tween Aro'e and Assens it is lour ‘ times that distance. No Foreigner is allowed to enter ! Copenhagen without exhibiting a . passport; and, on quitting this city, it is necessary to procure, From the High - President, an- other passport, which costs three h marks. Copenhagen, the metropolis of 1 Denmark, and called in the Danish language, Kiobenhavn , stands on the Island of Zeeland ; and is de- fended by four royal castles, and embellished with a fine harbour, formed by a large Canal flowing ( through the city, and capable of ' receiving five hundred ships- ; though it admits only one at a time. Copenhagen has suffered much ' from the ravages of Avar ; but, some { years since, it contained above 91), 000 inhabitants, and a pecu- i Parly fine naval Arsenal , which still merits notice. Among other ' objects best worth observation in i this city are, the University , founded in 17-15, and richly en- dowed— Me Library belonging to I the University— the Cabinet of Natural History— the Royal Mu- seum- — the royal Library , con- i tuning 120,000 volumes — the > Church dedicated to the Saviour, and that dedicated to the blessed i Virgin — the Seminary for naval Cadets — the Academy of Paint- ing and Sculpture — the Barracks — the equestrian Statue of Chris- tian V. — the Exchange — the ruins of the Castle of Chris tian- \ burgh — the Obelisk erected in 1793, to commemorate the deli- verance of the peasants from the chains of feudal slavery ; which • Several of the finest works of the Che- raher Thorwaldsea are destine 1 to enrich was effected by the in terest of Fre- derick vi., when heir-apparent to the throne — the Statue of Frede- rick V.<— and the Theatre .* The grand Hotel is a good inn. About twenty English miles from Copenhagen is Frederics- burgh, the most splendid royal Residence in Denmark : and near Helsingoer, is a royal Villa, sup- posed to stand upon the ground formerly occupied by the palace of Hamlet’s father: and in an adjoin ng Garden is shown the spot where, according to tradition, that Prince was poisoned. Jaegerspreiss , about six Ger- man miles from Copenhagen, also belongs to the royal Family ; and stands in a Park, which contains several ancient Tombs of northern Heroes; together with the Monu- ments of Tycho Brahe and Bevns- storf. Marielust, a royal Villa about five German miles from Copen- hagen, commands a remarkably fine view; and the road to Een- room likewise exhibits beautiful ROUTE FROM COPENHAGEN TO HAMBURGH. German miles. 4 Roeskilde—The Cathedral here con- tains the tombs of the Danish Kings : and the water in this tow n is excel- lent. 4 Ringstedt — Between Ringstedt and Slan- gense is the celebrated College of Sora. The principal Church at Ringstedt contains the tomb of Canute, and is likewise the burial place of other Danish Princes. 4 Slangense 2 Korscer — Here Travellers embark upon the Great Belt. 4 Nyborg 4 Odensee — This is the capital of the isle of Funen. the royal Collection of Sculpture al Copen- hagen. 452 5 Asserts— lie re Travellers cross the Little Belt. 2 Aroesund 2 Hadersleben 4% Agenrade 4)4 Flensborg — A safe port, capable of ad- mi. ting very large vessels. i'/ 2 Sleswick — This is tl.e capital of the Duchy of Sleswick. 3^ Rendsboig— Here the Eyder marks the boundary between Germany and Denmark. 3 Remmel 3 Itzcho 3 \ Elmshorn 2 Pinneberg 3 1 Hamburgh. 625 ROUTE FROM COPENHAGEN TO GOTHEABORG. German Miles. 6 Helsingborg — Between Copenhagen and [ch. xm. Helsingborg Travellers cross the Sound, and enter Sweden. Swedish Miles.* 1 Fleminge 1 i Engelholm I'/i Margaretha-Torp— Hence to Karup the road is very hilly. 1 Karup 15 Laholm — Here is a fine fall of the Loga- Strom. 25 Halmstat \\ Qujbiile 15 Sloeinge l'/j Falkenberg 15 Marup Warberg— This is a safe Port, 2 Bacha \% Alsa \\ Kingsbaka 1 Kjarra % Gothenborg. 6 German miles. 21— Swedish miles. APPENDIX. CHAPTER XIII. SWEDEN AND NORWAY. Money— Price of Post-horses, etc.— Route from Stralsund to Stockholm, through Carlscrona 1 — Stockholm — Population— Harbour— Streets — Royal Residence — other objects best worth notice — Promenades— Public Amusements— Inns — Environs — New Upsala — Spot where the Kings of Sweden in ancient times were elected — Iron Mines — Route from Stockholm to Upsala — ditto from Stockholm to Gothenborg— Description of that town — Prices per Packet from Gothenborg to Harwich — Route from Gothenborg to Christiania and Bergen. MONEY OF SWEDEN. The common currency of this country is paper; of which there are two kinds, namely Bank-pa- per, and Government-paper, dis- tinguished from each other by the word Banco being added to the first, and Rixgeld to the second. They are of very different value ; Government-paper having suffer- ed a depreciation of above thirty per cent ; while Bank-paper con- tinues at par. Calculations are generally made in Government- paper ; so that payments either in Bank-paper, or copper, go forone- * One mile of Sweden is about third more than their denomina- tion. Gold and silver coins can sel^ dom, if ever, be met with; but the following copper coins are in common use. Rundstychs . . 12 of which make 1 skilling. Stivers .... 4 of which make 1 skilling. Skillings . . . 8 of which make 1 dollar. Forty-eight skillings, or six dol- lars, make one rix-dollar, in value from two to three English shillings, according to the exchange. one mile and a half of Germany. 453 SWEDEN AND NORWAY. The Bank notes are of the fol- lowing kinds: 8 Skillings — 12 skillings — 24 skillings — 1 rix-dollar — 2 rix- dollars — 3 rix-dollars — and so on, up to 30 rix-dollars. The Government notes are of the following kinds : Id skillings — 32 skillings — 1 rix-dollar — 2 rix-dollars. Accounts are usually kept in rix-dollars. PRICE OF POST-IIORSES, ETC. The charge for every post-horse, per Swedish mile (rather more lhan six English miles and a half), is, at Stokholm, sixteen skillings Banco- — in several other towns, twelve skillings Banco — but in some of the country villages only eight skillings Banco. Every postillion is entitled to one skilling and a half per station; and with four skillings they are well satisfied. The hostler at each station is en- titled to one skilling. To heavy carriages post-mas- ters frequently put six or seven horses. Foreigners who take their own carriage to Sweden, should like- wise take harness; and also be es- ; pecially careful to chain one of their wheels when going down hill. Foreigners, on arriving in Swe- deti, should provide themselves with a passporl from the Governor of the Province they happen first to enter. They should likewise solicit from the Governor of the first town through which they pass, an order for post-horses : it is also requisite, in many parts of this country, to send forward a person, called a Forebud , to be- speak the uiunher of horses requir- ed by the Traveller at every post. The expense of employing a Fore- bud, is one silver dollar per sta- tion ; though if horses thus order- ed wait for the Traveller beyond the time appointed by him, the post-master has a right to one sil- ver dollar an hour for this deten- tion. Every post-house contains a day-book, in which Travellers are required to enter their name and rank, the time of their arrival, the place they came from , and whither they are going; the number of horses they want, their complaints, if they have any to prefer against the post-master, and also the t me of their departure. This day-book is inspected every month by Go- vernment. The roads throughout Sweden are excellent ; and no tolls are de- manded, unless it be on crossing bridges; neither do robbers infest the highways : but postillions, dur- ing winter, are apt, in order to save ground, to drive over lakes not thoroughly frozen; and, dur- ing spring, for the same reason, to venture upon sheets of ice be- ginning to thaw; inconsequence of which practice so many lives have been lost, that Travellers should never permit their drivers to quit the great road. Foreigners who take their own carriage across the Sound pay high for its passage : but travelling car- riages on sale, may frequently be met w r ith at Helsingborg and Go- thenborg; and open carriages of the country (a sort of cart, hung upon springs, and sufficiently large to contain two persons, and one trunk), may always be procured for eight or ten crowns. The rale of posting in Sweden is from seven to ten English miles an hour. 454 APPENDIX [CH. XIII, Travellers should take provi- sions with them from city to city ; because the eatables found in small towns and villages are not good. ROUTE FROM STRALSUND, THROUGH CARLSCRONA, TO STOCKHOLM. Persons who design crossing the Channel to Ystad should endea- vour to announce their intention, either on a Saturday or a Monday morning, at the post-office at Stralsund. Thepublic packet-boat sails from the last-mentioned town toward night, and arrives atYslad next morning. The prices per public Packet are — Crowns. Skillings. For every Cabin Passenger, one trunk ancl one port- manteau inclusive 2 36 For every Servant 2 12 For every Horse 2 12 And for every four-wheeled Carriage 4 or 5. A private yacht may be hired for seventy rix- dollars, drink - money and other trilling expenses not inclusive. Stralsund contains near 11,000 inhabitants : its Cathedral merits notice ; as do the Church of S. Jf«ry,.and its Organ; the 1'own and College Libraries ; and the Cabinet of Natural History. 16 Ystad — This town is small, but well built; and Ike German inn is the best. In the vicinity of Ystad is the t_ Castle of jVlarswinshoIm. s Herrenstad ij Tranas Andrarum 1’4 Degeherga Nebhelof 1 Chris tia ns lad— This is a strong fortress, w here Travellers should Irkeca e to have their Passports countersigned. The gate, of the town are shut every night at ten o’clock. The trade cai- ried on here is considerable ; and among the objects Rest voilh notice are, I lie Arsenal — the Governor’s Eesidenee — U e principal Church --and the Bridge. 4 Fielding 1% Gadenry 1^ Nor jo 1^ Assarum 1 Trensura \\ Sloby \'/, Ronneby \\ Skillinge l'l Carlscrona — This town, supposed to con- tain 15,000 inhabitants, possesses a Harbour capable of receiving a hun- dred ships of the line; and is cele- brated tor its covered Docks ; and likewise for an artificial rise and tall of water, constructed to remedy the 7 want of the ebb and flow of the tide, a Rubbetcrp \'h Killeryd l'l Fur Emmeboda 1^ Ericksmala l'/ 2 Kulla V/> Lenhofta n Nybbeled 1-f- Stokdorp 2 Stwetland lg Bransmala Ecksioe — The Church here merits no- tice ; and between this place and Berga are three Stones, inscribed 7 with Runic characters. I 7 Bone, or Berga 2 Sathella 2if Hester U Dala % Mod! y Bankeberg 1 Linkoping — This town contains a cele- 5 bra ted College and a fine Cathedral. lj Kumla l'/i Brink JSorkceping — This is one of the hand- somest and one of the most commer- cial towns in Sweden: it contains 9,h00 inhabitants. pj Oby — The lofty marble mountains of Kolmorden begin here. \% Krokek \\ Wreta — At Stafl'sias, near Wreta, there is a rich iron mine. 1 g- Jaeder N Harping — This is a large and handsome commercial town. 2\ Swardhro 2 Oby \'l Pilkrog V/ 2 Soederlellje — From Soedertellje to Stock- holm, Travellex-s have the option of going by water. 2 Fitliie 1^ Stockholm— Two roads, the one eighty Swedish miles and one-eighth, the oilier eighty-one and seven-eighths, in di.tance, lead from Stralsund through Jonkoping to Stockholm. 84 Swedish miles. The site of Stockholm, the me- tropols of Sweden, is singular, ro- mantic, and beautiful. This city is built upon seven small rocky islands of the Baltic, 455 ch. xiii.] SWEDEN AND NORWAY— STOCKHOLM. beside two peninsulas : its edifices seeing; and the prospect from the stand upon piles; and the number Tower of S. Catharine is particu- of its inhabitants is supposed to be larly beautiful. 76,000. Stockholm contains a royal Aca- The harbour, though difficult demy of Sciences; a royal Aca- of access, is extensive and con- demy of Painting and Sculpture ; venient; and of such a depth, that a royal Cabinet of Natural History; ships of the largest burthen can and a royal Cabinet of Medals ; all approach the Quay, which is lined of which merit notice; as do the with capacious warehouses. The royal Library, the Library belong- streets rise above one another in an ing to the Academy of Science^, amphitheatrieal shape, and are and the Studio of Sergei, a cele- crowned by the regal Palace, a bra ted Sculptor, large, quadrangular, and magni- The principal promenades are, licent structure. A long Bridge, the King’s Carden; the royal Hop- composed of granite, forms the Garden; the Park, and tiie Bridge approach to this Palace ; opposite of Boats. The public amusements to which (at the other extremity consist of Italian operas, Swedish I of the bridge), is a Square, adorn- plays, concerts, and balls: the two ed with an equestrian statue of last being given by Clubs, called Gustavus Adolphus, and contain- the Amaranth, the Narcissus, etc. ing two handsome edifices, name- Among the principal inns are, ly, the Palace of the Princess The English Tavern; the Cro-wn; Sophia, and the Italian Opera- and the Cave of Bacchus. The house. The furniture of the regal English Tavern furnishes Travel- Palace is superb ; and among the lers with breakfast and dinner; pictures, several of which merit the other inns provide breakfast notice, is a celebrated Combat of only : * there is, however, a Club, Animals. The statues were col- called the Selskapet, which fur- lected by Gustavus nr. ; many of nishes a dinner daily to as many them are antique; and the Endy- of the members as may choose to mion belonging to this collection partake of it. The dinner costs is particularly admired. abouttwenty-pence English a head; The Church of S. Nicholas con- liquors, ice, and coffee, not in- tains a good picture of the last eluded ; and every member has Judgment, and a statue of S. power to introduce a Stranger for i George — the Church of Ricldar- one month. f holm contains the Tombs of the In the neighbourhood of this Swedish Kings; and on that of city is the royal Palace of Ulrics- Charles xii. are a Club, and a dal, which contains the Library lion’s skin — characteristic orna- of Queen Ulrica Eleonora; a La- ments! Opposite to the Hotel de binet of Natural History, arranged Yille is the statue of Gustavus by Linnaeus ; some paintings, and \ Vasa ; and, on Gc Quay, that of a statue of King Frederick, j Gustavus nr. The Matson des Drotlningholm, a very large ) Nobles, and the Arsenal are worth edifice, finely situated on the banks * The price of breakfast at an hotel is about f The price paid for washing linen in Swc- t vo English shillings per head, and the price den is exorbitant, and so likewise are tho of apartments from ten to lifteen English shil- wages demanded by travelling servn u j. I lings a room per week. 456 APPENDIX. [ch. xiii. of the Moelar, is another royal Re- sidence, in the vicinity of Stock- holm; and contains a Cabinet of Natural History, arranged by Lin- naeus: here likewise is a Picture Gallery. On the way to Drottningholm stands a rock, called The Royal Hat; and upon which an iron hat is now placed in memory of Eric ii., who, being pursued by enemies, jumped off this rock, and thereby lost his hat, but saved his life. Haga is a small and elegant royal Villa, situated very near Stock- holm ; and about forty-five English miles from this Metropolis is New Upsala, formerly the capital of Sweden, and built near, if not actually upon, the foundations of Old Upsala, a place of high anti- quity ; and, previous to the intro- duction of Christianity in Sweden, the abode of the high-priest of Odin. Upsala, so called from the river Sala, which runs through it, is a well-built town, containing about 3,500 inhabitants, ancf the most celebrated University of northern Europe, instituted by Steno Sture, in 1476, and particularly patronis- ed by Gustavus Adolphus. Its Li- brary is open to the public on Wednesdays and Saturdays ; and consists of above 60,000 printed volumes, and about 1,000 manu- scripts; among which is the cele- brated Codex Argenteus, or trans- lation of the Gospels into the Go- thic language : the leaves are stain- ed with a violet colour, the letters are capitals, and were all origi- nally done in silver, except the initial characters, and a few pas- sages, which are done in gold.* The Cabinet of Natural History * Ulphilas, a bishop of the Golhs, flourished under the Emperor Valens, and was the first person who translated the Bible into l!_c Go- alie! Botanic Garden were arranged by Linnaeus. The Cathedral, begun in the thirteenth century, under the di- rection of Bonneville, a French- man, is deemed one of the hand- somest churches in Sweden, and particularly deserves attention on account of its monuments, ancient and modern (among which are those of Gustavus Vasa and Lin- naeus), the treasures of its Sacristy and the Shrine, w herein rests the mortal part of King Eric. About seven English miles from Upsala is the spot where the Kings of this country, in very ancient times, were elected : it lies in the middle of the plain of Mora ; and is distinguished by the remains of several Runic stones ; on the largest of w liich, called The Morasten, the Sovereigns were enthroned ; while their name and the year of their election were inscribed upon an- other of these stones. Near Upsala is the iron Mine of Dannemora, reputed to produce the best iron in the world ; and up- ward of ninety fathoms in depth. This mine has been worked for near five centuries: and persons who wish to examine it descend in a bucket to the spot where the m ners are employed. ROUTE FROM STOCKHOLM TO UPSALA. 2 Rotebro i% jvfaerstadt 1% Aisike \\ Upsala. 7 Swedish miles. ROUTE FROM STOCKHOLM TO GOTHENBORG. 1% Rarkarby ±1 Tibbie 2 Gran thic language : his translation of the Gospels is the only part of this work now extant. ' ti \t h ! 0 ii I® l Li k ! G, tit tii b eij In ft® iisli jtosl k it 457 cs. XIII.] SWEDEN AND NORWAY— GOTHENBORG. Harwich-Packets sail to Gothen- borg every Wednesday and Sa- turday, about two o’clock in the afternoon, weather permitting; and return twice a week, if possi- ble. IX Lisslena 1 Enkoping — Here are some Ruins of Con- vents and Churches. 1 Nigwarn 2 kV esteras — The Cathedral here and its „ , , Tower merit attention. 2 Kolbek IX Kiceping X Oestuna i Arboga — The Canal of Arboga unites the Lakes of Hielmar and Mcelar. In the environs of Arboga are several An- tiquities, supposed to have been the wc k of very ancient Northern na- tions ; and a Forest, in which it is imagined that their religious cere- monies were performed. IS Faelingsbro Ilf Glantshammer IS Orebro The price paid by a Cabin Pas- senger, unless recently lowered, is The price paid by a Half Passenger The price for conveying a four- wheeled Carriage 15 15 14 5 7 13 1 Mosos 1 Blakstae} 2 Wiby 2 Bodame 2S Hoswa 1% Walla 2 Binneberg 2 Skiaerf 1 Skara n Wonga 2 Wedum Siasfde 2S Alingsos Ingarid 3-5. Lerum 2 Gothenborg . 4?S Swedish miles. osls from eighteen-pence to two hillings, English money, per head; inner these hotels do not furnish. ROUTE FROM GOTHENBORG CHRISTIANIA. TO This town, supposed to contain •25,000 inhabitants, is placed in a (picturesque situation on the banks of the Gotha : and among the ob- jects best worthattention here, are, the four Bridges — the Swedish 1 Church , and its Cupola- — the Ger~ \man Church — the College , and its Library — the India House — the ' little Gothic Castle of West- \Gotha — the Vauxhall — the Pro- menades of Carlsport, and the kview from the summit ofOtter- jiollen. The Hotels at Gothenborg are j;xpensive, butnotgood. Anaparl- ne.nt, consisting of two rooms only , an seldom be obtained under a ium equivalent to twenty-five Eng- ish shillings per week. Breakfast Vk Lahall 1-Ji Cattleberg I’M Edet-LucK 1 Forss 4 Gerdeim 1 Trolhaetta — The magnificent Cataracts and Sluices of Trolhaetta are wedl worth notice, I.X Wenersborg i Almas 1 Raknebo 1% Herrsladt IX Quistroem 1\ Swarieborp I Ratalshed * II Slede *X Skyalleryd % Wick 1 Est M Stroemstadt IX Stogdal 1% He fie l Predericshall-Here are some handsome public buildings. The spot where Charles XII. expired i* viii ‘ e<1 by Tra '" ii «' s IX Thune IX Kaelshuset IX Willingen IX Soner 1 Sunbije 1 Korsegarlen 1 Schutsjoryd 2X Christiania. 38 X Swedish miles. This town, the capital of Nor- way, is situated in a spacious val- ley, and supposed to contain between nine and ten thousand inhabitants. ROUTE FROM CHRISTIANIA TO BERGEN. Asker— -The road leading to Asker is ex- cellent, and the situation of that place heautilul. Here are rocks of a stupendous height. 2r 45 8 APPENDIX, [CH. XIV. 2 Bragernea % Gusnestro 1 ; % Simonstadt 1 \ Sunhy Nordby % Hiemb $ Asken 1 Stecholt % Hochstedt 1 Skeen 1% Brewig Vk Eeg Wallekirch 3 Krageron 2 Oster-Risoer %. Groenesund \ Moene \\ Ongestadt \\ Assen 4 Sansted % Nederneskongs i Grimsted 1 Hogesled i y, Magested i Birkeland 1 Obel 1 Wee 2 Christicinsund — This is a considerable town and port. 4 Mandai 1% Spangelried 1% Porshafen \\ Farsund 1 Bistereid 2 Hitteroe 1% Sognedall 2% Eggersund 1$ Sircvog i Qualleen 1% Hoberstadt Brune % Opevad % Gann Stavanger — The Cathedral here is belter worth notice than any other in Nor- way , that of Drontheim excepted. 5 Karsund 10 Bergen. CO Swedish miles. This is the largest and most commercial town in Norway, and contains near 20,000 inhabitants : its Port is remarkably safe; and its Cathedral — German Church • — Castle— Hospital — and Maga- zines , merit notice. Here are public Seminaries ; and a Society for the encouragement of useful enterprises. CHAPTER XIY. RUSSIA. Money of Russia — Price of Post-horses, etc.— Podaroshna — other requisites for Travellers in Russia— Russian Voiturins— Passports — Route from Riga to Petersburgh— Population of Pe- tersburgh — situation of that city — Streets— Admiralty — Admiralty-Quay— Isaac-Platz, and equestrian Statue of Peter the Great — Church of S. Isaac — Summer Palace — Marble Palace- Winter Palace and its Church— Hermitage — Imperial Collection of Paintings and Academy of Sciences — Fortress — Church of the Holy Virgin of Casan — other Edifices, etc. worth notice — Seminaries — Charitable Institutions — Manufactories — Cottage inhabited by Peter the Great —Promenade and other public Amusements — Inns — Cronstadt — Royal Villas — Formalities required before Foreigners can quit Petersburgh — Route from Petersburgh to Moscow — account of the latter city — Route from Petersburgh to the Frontier of Sweden — Route from Moscow to Grodno — Route from Moscow to Riga, and the Frontier of Prussia. MONEY or RUSSIA. A copeck is an imaginary coin. .. . _ , . „ v , Accounts are kept in roubles. A copeck. ... 2 denuscas— m English money F PRICE OF POST-HORSES, ETC. The usual price of post-horses in Russia is two copecks a horse per yerst (near tworthirds of au something less than fta. An altin .... 3 copecks A grievener . 10 copecks A polpotin . . 25 copecks Apollin 50 copecks A rouble .... 100 copeeks A Xervonilz . 2 roubles. ch. xiv.] RUSSIA English mile) ; unless it be a verst royal, when the price is doubled. A Russian postillion cannot de- mand more than one copeck a horse per verst; but Travellers generally give five copecks per verst, which is deemed liberal payment. , Post-masters are directed, by the last Imperial Ukase, to put three horses to every carriage con- taining two or three persons. Between Perm and the Govern- ment of Tobolsk, between that Government and Uffa, and like- wise on the roads beyond these districts, only one copeck per verst is paid for each horse from October till April; and in the Governments of Tobolsk and Ir- kutsk only half a copeck. In the territory of Kolhivano and Yors- nesenki the price varies according to the season ; one copeck bem°' (charged from April till October? and only half that sum from Oc- tober till April. Wo person is allowed to travel post without having first obtained an order for post-horses, signed by a Governor civil or military : and every Traveller, on receiving :his order, which is called a Poda- \oshiia , must pay a tax of one copeck per verst for every horse mentioned in the order. Theconsequenceofthelowprice K post-horses is, that Foreigners Vequently find it difficult to ob- ;ain them; but, exclusive of this urcumstance, the posts are well jerved. The horses go remark- bly quick, whether harnessed to vheel- carriages or sledges; and t every verst stands a post, ex- pressing the distance from the ist town to the next. During ■pin ter it is usual to travel in Hedges; which proceed with such iidocity , that a journey of two him- —RIGA. 459 dred and fifty versts may be ac- complished in twenty-four hours. The common Russian wheel-car- riage, for travelling, is called a Kibitka , and resembles a cart. Travelling beds and sheets are absolutely necessary in this coun- try ; a bed being a scarce com- modity, even in cities, andalways unattainable at a country-inn. It is likewise requisite to. take pro- visions from town to town. Russian Voiturins have fleet horses, and a great deal of cus- tom. The real, if not the osten- sible Yoiturins are the Post-mas- ters: for when their post-horses are not employed by order of Go- vernment, they have the privi- lege of letting them out for hire ; charging five copecks per verst on the great roads; but on the ci oss roads only three : and when all the post horses are engaged, they furnish Travellers with what are called Peasants’ horses ; char«’- ing for these an advanced price, and demanding much more than they take. A’o Foreigner can enter Russia without exhibiting a passport signed by a Russian Minister : and persons who travel in this country, should neither leave their car- riages unlocked, nor unguarded ; because the common people are inclined to thieve. ROUTE FROM RIGA TO PETERS- BURGII. Riga, next to Petersburg!!, the most commercial town of the Rus- sian Empire, is seated on the Da- na ; and contains within its forti- fications about 9,000 persons, and 111 ,ls suburbs about 15.000. Amona the most remarkable edi- fices here, are The Hotel do 460 APPENDIX. [ch. xir. Ville — the Exchange — the im- perial Palace — the Cathedral — the Arsenal — S. George's Hospital — S. Peters Church—* the Russian Hospital — the Theatre— and the Cus tom-house. The floating bridge thrown over the Dana, and the Garden of Yitinghof, are the prin- cipal Promenades. Riga contains several good pri- vate lodgings ; and two tolerable inns ; the best of which is, La Ville de Petershourg. Vers Is. H Neuenmiilbun— Government of Riga. S5 Kilkensfehr — A sandy road. Passage of the Aa 19 Engelhardshof 21 Roop— This town is adorned with hand- some edifices. 22 Lenzenhof 18 Wolmar 18 Stakeln 21 Gulben Passage of the Emhaeh 18 Toilitz 122 Kuikatz 21 Uddern 25 Dorpat 23 Iggafer 23 Torma Lake of Feypus, which divides the Go- vernments of Riga and Fetersburgh. 25 Nennal— Government of Petersburgh. 14 Rana-Pungern 24 Klein-Pungern — Here Travellers going to Petersburgh quit the Lake of Peypus. 20 Kiew— The Gulf of Finland is discover- able here. 11 Fokenhofs, or Kudley— The road lies near the banks of the Gulf. 17 Waiw ara 22 Narva — Travellers whose Passports are not sealed by the Emperor, are visited by the Custom-house Officers here. 22 Jamburgh Passage of the Narowa 45 Opolie 25 Czerkowilz 22 Kaskowa 19 Kiepen 25 Strelna 17 Petersburgh — Superb villas, and other handsome buildings, form the ave- — — Dues to this splendid capital. 558 versts, about 370 English miles. The account given of Peters- burgh by Mr. James, a modern Traveller, is so beautiful, and at the same time so accurate, that persons possessed of his “ Journal of a Tour in Germany, Sweden, Russia, and Poland, ” can re- quire no further information re- specting the metropolis of the Russian Empire : but to persons who ar e not fortunate enough to possess his work, the following account may, perhaps, be accept-, able. Petersburgh is said to contain about 200,000 inhabitants, exclu- sive of Cronstadt, a Fortress which defends the entrance of the Neva, and is the principal station of the imperial navy. Petersburgh stands on both sides of the Neva, between the Lake Ladoga and the Gulf of Finland; and is built partly upon the continent, and partly upon islands in the mouth of the river ; the right bank exhi- biting the old town, and the left bank the new one; through which pass three Canals, adorned with Bridges, and magnificent Quays of Granite. The streets of the new town are, generally speaking, spacious ; three of them, which meet at the admiralty, being of 1 an extraordinary length ; and these ! streets are intersected by others embellished with handsome espla- nades. The Admiralty exhibits a facade of more than a quarter of an English mile in length, adorn- ed by six porticos, and surmount- ed with a gilt dome and spire ; and at the back of this immense structure is the Dock-yard. The Admiralty-Quay , erected by Ca- therine ii., does honour to her I memory. Among several other objects which merit the attention of a traveller are the Isaac Platz, ornamented with an equestrian statue, in bronze, of Peter the Great, done by F alconet ; and representing Peter in the act of mounting an eminence, the sum- mit of which he has nearly at- tained : his right hand is stretched ch. xiv.] PETERSBURG!!. 461 out, as if lie were Blessing his eople; while with the left, he olds the reins. An enormous rock of granite which, when transported to Petersburg!! from the morass wherein it was found, weighed above fifteen hundred tons, forms the pedestal. The statue is said to be a striking like- ness of Peter, and cost the Em- press Catherine n., by whom it was erected, 424,610 roubles. — The Church of S. Isaac , a magni- ficent, though a heavy edifice, of hewn granite — the imperial sum- mer Palace (a beautiful specimen of architecture) and. its public Gar- den — the marble Palace , built by Catherine n. for Prince Orloff — the imp erial winter Palace., which contains the Jewels of the Crown, and the famous diamond pur- chased by the Empress Catherine of a Greek, to whom she paid for it 450,000 roubles, and a pension of 100,000 livres-tournois for life — the Church belonging to this palace — the Hermitage , which, notwithstanding itsname, contains magnificent apartments, and a summer and winter garden ; the first, in the Asiatic style, occu- pying the whole level roof of the edifice , the other being a spacious hothouse, adorned with gravel- walks, orange-trees, and parterres of flowers, and peopled with birds of various climates — the imperial collection of Paintings — the im- perial Academy of Sciences, which contains a Library rich in Chinese andSclavonian manuscripts: (here also are instructions relative to a code of laws, written by the hand of the Empress Catherine.) The Academy likewise contains a Mu- seum of Natural History particu- larly rich in ores (among which is a mass of native iron 16561bs. in weight) ; a collection of Rarities, comprising a variety of ornaments found in the tombs of Siberia, many being of massive gold and very elegant workmanship: idols brought from Siberia ; arms and dresses of the various inhabitants of the Russian Empire ; among which are Japanese habits and ar- mour, a collection of coins ; and a waxen figure of Peter the Great, the features of which were taken from a mould applied to his face after death. — The Fortress, or Citadel, which is surrounded by walls of brick faced with hewn granite, and contains the cathe- dral of S. Peter and S. Paul , is a noble edifice adorned with a spire of copper gilt. Here are deposit- ed the remains of Peter the Great, and most of his successors : and in the Fortress is preserved a four- oared boat, said to have been the origin of the Russian navy, and called by Peter, the Little Grand- sire. The Church of the Holy Virgin of Casan ; a splendid edi- fice, recently built, and supposed to have cost 15,000,000 roubles, The architect was a Russian slave, by name Woronitchki, and edu- cated at the imperial Academy — the Lutheran Church of S. Anne — the convent and Church of S. Alexander New ski — the new Exchange*— the statues (f Suwar*- row and Romanzow — the great Theatre — the Quays of Aewa, Fontaka , and Koika — the great Market — the new Bank — and the Arsenal , which contains trophies and armour belonging to various nations. The Corps des Cadets , the Convent des Demoiselles nobles , and the Institute of Catherine . are excellent seminaries for the edu- cation of the nobility, and some 46 2 APPENDIX. children of inferior rank. The annual income of the first is 30,0001. sterling; and the two last are richly endowed ; and like- wise enjoy the advantage of being patronised and constantly inspect- ed by the Dowager Empress. The general Hospital , the Foundling Hospital , the Asylum for the Deaf and Dumb , and the Asylum for Widows and Orphans are munificently endowed, and remarkably well conducted cha- rities. The imperial cotton Manufac- tory, the imperial plate-glass Ma- nufactory, the imperial tapestry, porcelain, and bronze Manufac- tories, and the iron Foundry, merit notice. The cottage inhabited by Peter the Great, while he constructed the Fortress, stands in the old town ; and is still shown to Tra- vellers. It contains but three rooms, only eight feet in height, and the largest not more than fifteen feet square. A boat, made by the Czar himself, is kept near this cottage. Themostfrequentedpromenade at Petersburgh is the Boulevards, which consist of three avenues of trees carried round three sides of the Admiralty : the public amuse- ments are concerts, given in the Hall of Music, aud exhibitions in the Theatres. The best inns are, La Ville de Londres — La Ville de Grodno — ■ La Ville de Paris — and V Hotel de Madrid. The Fortress of Cronstadt, its Arsenal and Docks, merit notice; * The distance from Petersburgh to Cron- stadl is, by land, 47 versts. From Peleisburgh to Vyborg, 139 versts. From Petersburgh to Smolensko, 838 versts. From Petersburgh to Archangel, 1,145 versts. [CH. XIV. but cannot be seen without permis- sion from the Governor. There are twelve royal Villas in the neighbourhood of Petersburgh. Tschesme contains portraits of the reigning Princes of Europe — Tzarskoe-Zelo , about fifteen Eng- lish miles from the metropolis, contains a room incrusted with amber, and a garden which me- rits notice; but the house is too gaudy — Peterhof , about five miles further distant, is called the Ver- sailles of the North. It is necessary that Foreigners, previous to quitting Petersburgh, should have theirnames advertised three times in the gazette ; which added to the formalities required for obtaining the podaroshna and passports, occupies some time.* ROUTE FROM PETERSBURGH TO MOSCOW. Versts. 22 S. Sopbia — District town. Government of Petersburgh. — A few versLs from Petersburgh begins the wooden road constructed by Peter the Great; and consisting of a platform of small trees, which, when not neatly joined to- gether (and this frequently occurs), is so rough, that the Russians, in order to mitigate the inconvenience, fill their traveling carriages with soft pillows. The country between Petersburgh and Moscow is covered, generally speak- ing, with thick forests of birch and fir. 11 Igiora 25 Tossna 32 Pomerania— -Government of Novgorod. 25 Tischoudovo 24 Spaskaja-Poliste 24 Podberexie 22 Novgorod — Government town. Novgo- rod, supposed to have been founded in the fifth century, and once so potent as to have been called The Resistless, possessed, during the plenitude of its power, upward of From Petersburgh to Astra can, 1,473 versts. The Almanack published yearly by the Academy of Sciences al Petersburg h contains a table of the Russian towns, with their dis- tances from Petersburgh and Moscow. cb. xiv.] RUSSIA— MOSCOW. 463 400,000 inhabitants: and though now depopulated, and hastening fast to decay, it still exhibits vestiges of former magnificence ; among which are the Walls of the Kremlin, and the Church of S. Sophia, containing the Tombs of Valdomir and Feodor; together with curious specimens of architecture, and paintings supposed to have been executed previous to the revival of the Arts in Italy. Its brazen Gates are reported to have been brought from the Crimea at the lime of Valdomir’s expedition against the Greek Empire. 85 Bronnilzi 27 Zaiffova 31 Krestzi— District town. 16 Rachino 22 Jagelbitzi 22 Zimogorie 20 Jedrovo 36 KoLilovo 36 Wischnei-Wololzek— District town. Go- vernment of Tver. 33 Widropouskoe 38 Torjock— District town. 33 Mednoe. 30 Tver — Government town ; handsome, very commercial, and seated on the Volga. 26 Wosskresenkoe 31 Zadivovo— Government of Moscow. 26 Klin— District town. 31 Pecheki 22 Tschernaia-Griasse 28 Moscow. 728 versts, about 520 English miles. Moscow, the ancient capital of the Russian empire, and thirty- five versts in circumference, is watered by the Moskwa ; and be- fore the French invaded Russia possessedupward of300,000 inha- bitants. The Kremlin, or cita- del, which stands on an eminence in the centre of the town, is a large walled circle, containing a gaudy mass of Asiatic, Grecian, and Gothic edifices ; and compre- hending the Holy Gate, through which every passenger walks bare- headed ; the Trinity Church ; together with those of S. Nicholas and the Assumption; the Chapel and Palace of the Czars ; and the lofty Tower of IvanVeliki, crown- ed by a steeple and gilt dome. The Palace of the Czars is a gor- geous structure in the Hindoo style, and was erected about two hundred years ago. The domes of the various buildings are many of them gilt, the roofs stained either green or red, and the walls and towers covered with glazed tiles of various colours, or adorned with paintings which represent scrip- tural histories. The imperial palace was gutted by the French ; as was an ancient edifice containing an apartment which is used as the public hall of audience at the coronation of the Russian sovereigns. Part of the walls of the Kremlin, and one of the towers near the river, the church of S. Nicholas, the four great bells of Moscow, the walls of the arsenal, and a piece of the gate of S. Nicholas, were blown up, and the tower of Ivan Veliki rent from the top to the bottom, by mines prepared and exploded at the command of Napoleon, when he was compelled to relin- quish his long-looked-for asylum in Moscow, by a master-stroke of Russian policy, which reduced the greater portion of the town to ashes, and thereby, in all proba- bility, saved the empire from being conquered by France. Moscow is now rising rapidly from its ashes, though vestiges of the conflagration still remain. The most frequented Promenade here is the Boulevards ; and The German Hotel is one of the best ions. ROUTE FROM PETERSBURG II TO THE FRONTIER OF SWEDEN. Versts. 24 Dranichenikovo 15 Belooslrofskoe 25 Li ndoula— Government of Vyborg. 20 l’ampala 19 Souveuoia 20 Kemera 22 Vyborg— Government town. 20 Tervaioki 17 Vilaioki * 23 Ourpala 464 APPENDIX. [ch. xir. 16 Puterlakce 18 Grenvic • 16 Frideriksham — District town. 23 Kiumene-Gorodock 22 Pultice— Last station in Russia. 5 Aborforce — Upon Lhe river Kiumene. 305 vei'sts, about 200 English miles. ROUTE FROM MOSCOW TO GRODNO. Versts. 27 Perkouchekovo— Government of Moscow. 26 Koubinskoe 22 Chelkova 24 Mojaick — District town. 27 Gridnevo— Government of Smolensko. 29 Ishalsk — District town. 30 Teplouka 29 Viasma — District town. 26 Semlovo 23 Giachekova 28 Dorogobusch— District town. 23 Mikailovka 24 Pneva 17 Bredikino 23 Smolensko— Government town. There is a fine Cathedral at Smolensko. 23 Koritnia 23 Krasnoi — District town. 48 Liadi — Government of Mogilew. 16 Koziani 14 Doubrovna 17 Orcha— District town. 28 Kokanova 18 Tolotzine 15 Maliavka 15 Kroupki 23% Locbenilzi — Government of Minsk. 17 Borysow — District town. 17% Jodino 17% Smolevitzi 15% Jouchnovka 2t Minsk — Government town. 21% Gritchina 18% Koidanovo 14% Komel 21% Novoc-Svergino 25 Nesvig — District town. 28 Mire— Government of Lithuania. 21 Korelitz; 21 Novogvodok— District town. 3 6% Belitza 28 Joloudoke 14 Tstouchino 14 Kamenka 21 Skidel 35 Grodno— Frontier town. 996$ versts, above 700 English miles. Grodno is the capital of Lithua- nia, and contains « Palace , erect- ed by Augustus hi. ; a medicinal College , and a botanic Garden; together with several decayed buildings which evince its ancient splendour. ROUTE FROM MOSCOW TO RICA, AND THE FRONTIER OF PRUSSIA. Versts. 489 Orcha— See the route from Moscow to Grodno. 20 Orcki j8 Babinovitzi— District town. 25 Poloviki 22 Vilepske — Government town. 21 Staroe— Government of Vitepske. 21 Kourslofschina 17 Doubovike . 22 Ostrovliani 15 Peroulina 12 Polotske— District town. 9 Gamzeleva 26 Logotka 25 Proudniki 25 Driza— District town. 19 Tschourilova 18 Drouia 20 Koesslavle 22 Plokcha 22 Dinaburg — District to vn. 17 Kirousska 17 Avcenova 20 Livenbof 16 Tripenhof 22 Glazinaneke 24% Kopenhausen 21 Remershof 16 Jounfernliof 23 Ogershof, or Iskile 21 Kirkholm, or Chonpel 14 -Riga — Government town. 19 Alaie 20^ Mittau — Government town. Mittau, the capital of Courlmd, is extensive, but. not populous. The Ducal Chateau merits notice, as do the Reformed Church and the Aca- demy. 28 Doblene— Government of Courland. 24% Berggof 29% Frauenburg 28% Strouuden 24 Gross-Drogen 19 Taideken 25% Ober-Bartau 27 Routzau 21 Palangen — Government of Lithuania. A Custom-house on the Frontier of Prussia. 1346# versts, above 960 English miles. ALPHABETICAL LIST TOWNS, Towns. Abano Acerenza Adra Agen Aix Albenza Alba Alcara de Henares Almasa Almaden Alicant Almeria Algesiras Amiens Angers Antibes Aousta Arezzo Arras Ascolo Assisi Augsburgh Auch Au tun Auxerre Avignon Baca Baia Balaguer Balbastro Barcelona Bari OF RIVERS, GULFS, ISLANDS, etc, WITH THEIR ANCIENT NAMES. Ancient Names. Aponum Acherontia Abdera Aginum Aqua3-Sextiae Albium Ingaunum Alba-Pompeia Complutum Numantia Sisapo Lucenium Murgis Tingentera Ambianum Andevacum Antipolis Augusta-Prae toria Aretium Alrebates Asculum Asisium Aug usta- Yindelico- rum Ausci Augustodunum Antissiodurum Avenio Basti Baiae Bergusa Balbastrum Barcino Barium Italia. Magna Graecia. Hispania. Gallia. Gallia. Italia. Italia. Hispania. Hispania. Hispania. Hispania. Hispania. Hispania. Gallia. Gallia. Gallia. Italia. Italia. Gallia. Magna Graecia. Italia. Germania. Gallia. Gallia. Gallia. Gallia. Hispania. Magna Graecia, Hispania. Hispania. Hispania. Magna Graecia. 466 ALPHABETICAL LIST OF TOWNS. Towns. Benevento Besancon Bergamo Bevagnia Bilboa Bisignano Bologna Bolsena Bourdeaux Boulogne Boianno Bregentz Brest Briancon Brindisi Calais Canapina Canosa Casal-novo Castel di Brucca Castel-a-mare Catania Carlhagena Capua Cadiz Calahorra Ca inbray Caliors Cajazzo Castigliano Caslro-Yetere Cassano Castro-Giovanni Caserta Cerveteri Ceuta Cbieti Chiu si Chartres Chalons Chalons-sur-Saone Citii di Gastello Civita-Castellana Civita-Yeechia Civita della Yigna Como Ancienf Names. Beneventum Yesontio Bergomum Mevania Flaviobriga Besidiee Bononia Felsinia Yolsenum Burdigala Gessoriacum Bovianum Brigantium Brivates Brigantia Brundisium Portus-Iccius Capena Canusium Manduria Yelia Stabise Catana Carthago-nova Casilinum Gades CaJaguris Camaracum Cadurci Galatia Carsula Causon Cosae Henna Staticula Caere Abyla Teale Clusium Carnules Catalauni Cabillonum Tifernum-Tiberinum Fescennium Centumcellae Lanuviuin Comum Magna Graecia. Gailia. Italia. Italia. Germania. Magna Graecia. Italia. Italia. Gallia. Gallia. Magna Graecia, Germania. Gallia. Gallia. Magna Graecia. Gallia. Italia. Magna Graecia. Magna Graecia. Magna Graecia. Magna Graecia. Sicania-Sicilia.* Hispania. Magna Graecia. Hispania. Hispania. Gallia. Gallia. Magna Graecia. Italia. Magna Grraecia. Magna Graecia. Sicilia. Magna Graecia. Italia. Hispania. Magna Graecia. Italia. Gallia. Gallia. Gallia. Magna Graecia. Italia. Italia. Italia. Italia. * These names it derived from the Sicani and Siculi, who peopled a considerable part of the country : it was also called Trinacria and Txiquetia, from its triangular figure. ALPHABETICAL LIST OF TOWNS. 467 Towns. Ancient Names. Cochile Sybaris 4 Magna Graecia. Cortona Coritus Italia. Cologne Colonia Agrippinae Germania. Collioure Caucoliberis Hispania. Cordova Cordubaf Hispania. Conza Compsa Magna Graecia. Cronstadt Praetoria Germania. Crotona Croton Magna Graecia. Cuma Cumae Magna Graecia. Denia Dianeum§ Hispania. Dijon Dibio Gallia. Elche Illici Hispania. Gallia. Embrun Embrodunus Essek Mursa Germania. Eugubio Iguvium Italia. Evoli, or Eboli Eburi Magna Graecia. Evora Ebora Hispania. Faenza Faventia Italia. Faro Ossonoba Hispania. Fano Fanum Fortunae Italia. Faro di Messina Mamertini Sicilia. F ermo Ferrnum Italia. Fiesole Faesulae Italia. Florence Florentia Italia. Foligno Fulginium, or Fulgi- nas Italia. Fondi Fundi Italia. Foili Forum-Livii Italia. F orlim-Popoli Forum-Popilii Italia. Frascati Tusculum Italia, Genoa Genua Italia. Genzano Cynthianum Italia. Gibraltar Calpe Hispania. Girgenti Agrigentum Sicilia. Granada Eliberis, or Garnata Hispania. Grenoble Gralianopolis Gallia. Guadix Acci, or Colonia Ac- citana Hispania. Guardamar Alone Hispania. Huesca Osca Hispania. Imola F orum-Cornelii Italia. Joigny Joviniacum Gallia. Ispello Hispellum Italia. Itri Urbs Mainurrarum Italia. Ivrea Eporedia Italia. Lamenlana N omentum Italia. * Afterward called Thurii ; and licre Herodotus lived and died, f Called, by Ihe Romans, Patricia. § Called, by the Greeks, Artemisinin. 468 ALPHABETICAL LIST OF TOWNS. Towns. Langres La Riccia Larina Lavinia Leghorn Lerida Leyden Lintz Liria Lisbon Limoges Lodi Lorca Lucero Ludove Lyons Marubio Madrid Malaga § Marseilles ** Marburgh Matteo Macon Messina Mentz Merida Mequinenza Metz Milan Miranda Miseno Milasso Modena Modica Mola di Gaeta Monaco Monte Leone Montpellier Monselice Murcia f f Ancient Names. Lingones Aricia Larinum Lavinium Portus Labronis Her- culis Ileuda LugdunumBatavorum Lentia Edeta Olisippo, Olyssipo, Ulyssipo* Lemovices Laus Pompeia Eliocroca Luceriaf Luteva Lugdunum Marrubium Mantua Malaca Massilia Mattacum Indibilis Matisco Messana Maguntiacum Augusta-Emerita Octogosa Divodurum Mediolanum Deobriga Misenum Myle Mutina Mutyca F ormiae Portus Herculis Mo- noeci Mutusca Agathopolis Mons-Silicus Vegilia Gallia. Italia. Magna Grsecia. Italia. Italia. Hispania. Gallia. Germania. Hispania. Hispania. Gallia. Italia. Hispania. Magna Grascia. Gallia. Gallia. Italia. Hispania. Hispania. Gallia. Germania. Hispania. Gallia. Sicilia. Germania. Hispania. Hispania. Gallia. Italia. Hispania. Sicilia. Sicilia. Italia. Sicilia. Italia. Italia. Italia. Gallia. Italia. Hispania. * Said to have heen founded by Ulysses. f f Famed for its wool. Cj Built by the Phoenicians, who called it H (salt), from the quantity of salt-fisli sold there. ** Once inhabited by a colony of Phoenicians. ft Murcia was likewise called Tadmir; that is, productive of palm-trees ; with which the southern part of Spain abounds; there being, near Alicantj a forest, reported to contain above two hundred thousand. ALPHABETICAL LIST OF TOWNS. Towns. Ancient Names. Murviedio Saguntum Hispania. Narni Narnia, or Nequinum Italia. Narbonne Narbonensis Gallia. Nantes Condivicum Gallia. Nato Netum Sicilia. Nevers Nivernum Gallia. Nissa Naissus Germania. Nisraes Nemausus Gallia. Nipi Nepete Italia. Norsia Nursia Italia. Norma Norba Italia. Noyon Noviodunum Gallia. Novara Novaria Italia. Nocera Nuceria Magna Grsecia. Nuremburgh Norica Germania. Orihuela Ore el is Hispania. Orleans Aureliani Gallia. Otranto Otricoli Hydrantum r Ocriculi, or Ocricu- lum Magna Grsecia. Italia. Paderno Hybla Sicilia. Padua Patavium Italia. Pavia Ticinum Italia. Palestrina Prseneste Italia. Psestum Posidonia Magna Grsecia. Palermo Panormus Sicilia. Pampeluna Pompelo Hispania. Paris Parisii vel Lutetia Gallia. Perugia Augusta-Perusia Italia. Pesaro Pesaurum Italia. Perigueux Petrocorii Gallia. Piacenza Placentia Italia. Pistoja Pistoria Italia. Piperno Privernum Italia. Pignerol Pinarolum Gallia. Pisa Pisse Italia. Piombino Populonia Italia. Pozzuoli Puteoli * Magna Grsecia - Poictiers Pictavi Gallia. Porto-Venere Portus-Y eneris Italia. Ponte-Corvo Fregellae Italia. Prattica Lavinium Italia. Ratisbon Reginum Germania. Ragusa Epidaurus Germania. Resina Retina Magna Grsecia. 'Reggiof Rhegiurn Lepidi Magna Grsecia. Gallia. 'Rennes Redones * Called, hy the Greeks, Dicaearchin. t T ^‘ e birth-place of Ariosto. 470 ALPHABETICAL LIST OF TOWNS. Towns. Rheims Ricti Rimini Rome Roma-Yecchia Roveredo Rouen Rosas, or Roses Ruvo Salobrina Sassina S. Maria dei Faleri S. Donato S. Yitorino Salerno Saragossa Salamanca * S. Lucar Saintes St. Paul-trois-Cha- teaux St. Quentin S. Mareo ST. Lorenzo Saleme Salpi Saragusa Seville Setuval Segorbio Sens Sezze Sermoneta Siena Sisseg Sorrento Soissons Spoleto Spire Starmonetta Susa Tarracon Tarento Tangiers Ancient Names. Durocorturum Reate Ariminum Roma Pagus Lemonius Roboretum Rotomagus Rhoda Rubi Selimbena Sarsini F alerii Appii-Forum Amiternum Salernum Csesar-Augusta Salamantica Fanum Luciferi Santones Augusta - Tricastrino- rum Aug.-Y eromanduo- rum Calacta Laurentum Halicyse Salpia Syracusse Hispalis f Csetobrix Segobriga Senones Setinum Sulmona Sena-Julia Siscia Syren turn Augusta-Suessonum Spoletum Noviomagus Sulmo Segusium Turiago Tarentum Tingis Gallia. Italia. Italia. Italia. Italia. Germania. Gallia. Hispania. Magna Grsecia. Hispania. Italia. Italia. Italia. Italia. Magna Graecia. Hispania. Hispania. Hispania. Gallia. Gallia. Gallia. Sicilia. Italia. Sicilia. Magna Grsecia. Sicilia. Hispania. Hispania. Hispania. Gallia. Italia. Italia. Italia. Germania. Magna Grsecia. Gallia. Italia. Germania. Italia. Italia. Hispania. Magna Grsecia. Hispania. * A Roman road may be traced from Salamanca through Merida to Seville, t Founded by Scipio Africanus, according to some authors ; and by others supposed to have been built by the Phoenicians, and afterward called, by the Romans, Julia. ALPHABETICAL LIST OF TOWNS. Towns. Ancient Names. Tariffa Mellaria Hispania. Tarragona Tarraco * Hispania. Termini Thermae Sicilia. Temeswar Tibiscus Germania. Terni Interamna Italia. Tertosa Dertosa Hispania. Tivoli Tibur Italia. Tiano Teanum Italia. Tortona Dertona Italia. Torre di Mare Metapontum Magna Graecis. Tours Turones Gallia. Toledo Toletum Hispania. < Toulouse Tolosa Gallia. Trepani Eryx Sicilia. Triers, or Treves Augusta-Treviiorum'j- Germania. Troyes Augusta-Tricassium Gallia. Trent Tridentum Germania. Trieste Tergeste Germania. Turin Augusta-Taurinorum Italia. Valladolid Pintia Hispania. Valencia Valentia Hispania. Valence Valentia Gallia. Venosa Venusia§ Magna Graecia. Vera Urci Hispania. Verdun Varodunum Galiia. Venafro Venafrum Magna Graecia. Venice Venetiae Italia. Vegel Besippo Hispania. Viterbo Volturnum Italia. Vienna Vindebonna Germania. Vicenza Vicentia Italia. Vicenza Picentia ** Magna Graecia. Villa-Franca Carthago-Vetus Hispania. Voltera Volaterrae Italia. Worms Borbetomagus Germania. Xeres de la Frontera Asia Regia Hispania. Xativa Setabis Hispania. Zamora Sendee Hispania. Rivers. Ancient Names. Adaja Areva Hispania. Adige A thesis, or Atagis Italia. Aisne Axona Gallia. Almone Lubricus Almo Italia. Founded )>y the Scipios. f Supposed to he the most ancient city of Europe. § Where Horace was born. ** Near Pactum. 471 472 ALPHABETICAL LIST OF RIVERS. Rivers. Arno Cicabo Danube Dauro Douro Durance Ebro Elbe Farsa Fiumecino Foglia Freddo Galeso Garigliano Garonne Giaretta Girona Guadalete Guadiana Guadalquiver Inne Xsere Lamo Liquienza Loire Llobregat Marne Magra Mein Metaro Mincio Moselle Mugnone Negro Nera Ofanto Ombrone Pisatella Po Pretatore Rhine Rhone Saone Savio Sarno Segura Ancient Names. Arnus Cyane Danubius * Dat-aurum Durios, or Durius Druentia Iberus A Ibis Fabaris Rubicon Isaurus Crinisus Galesus Liris Garumna Simoethus Gerunda Lethe Anas Boetis Genus Isara Lamus Liquentia Ligeris Rubrigatus Matrona Macra Moenus Metaurus Mincius Mosella Minio Tanager Nar Aufidus IJmbro Rubicon f Padus Ufens Rhenus Rhodanus Arar Sapis Sarnus Terebus, or Tader Italia. Sicilia. Germania. Hispania. Hispania, Gallia. Hispania. Germania. Italia. Italia. Italia. Sicilia. Italia. Italia. Gallia. Sicilia . Hispania. Hispania. Hispania. . Hispania. Germania. Gallia. Italia. Italia. Gallia. Hispania. Gallia. Italia. Germania. Italia. Italia. Germania. Italia. Italia. Italia. Magna Grsecia. Italia. Italia. Italia. Italia. Germania. Gallia. Gallia. Italia. Magna Greecia. Hispania. * Called at its mouth the Ister. I So denominated becatise it flows into the Rubicon. ALPHABETICAL LIST OF RIVERS, LAKES, etc. Rivers. Serchio Seine Silaro Tajo Teverone Tesino Tevere Tiferno Topino , Yar Yelino Yolturno Xenil, or Genii Xucar Ancient names. Ausar Sequana Silarus Tagus Anio Ticinus Tiberis, or Albula Tifernus Tinia Yar us Yelinus Yulturnus Singulis Sucro Italia. Gallia. Magna Grtecia. Hispania. Italia. Italia. Italia. Magna Grsecia. Italia. Italia. Italia. Magna Graecia. Hispania. Hispania. Ancient Names. Yulsinus. Fossa Fretum. Sabatinus. Fucinus. Clanius, or Clany. Larius. Brigantinus. Fundanus. Benacus. Mare-Ligustiuni. Yerbanus. Urias Sinus. Fretum Siculum. Grater Sinus. Trasymenus. Laus Sinus. Flanaticus Sinus. Paestinus Sinus. Hippinates Sinus. Portus Lun a?. Scvlacius Sinus. Adriaticum Mare. Lakes and Bays of Italy. Bolsena, Lake of . . Bonifaccio. Straits of Bracciano, Lake of . Celano, Lake of . Chiama, Lake of Como, Lake of Constance, Lake of . Fondi, Lake of . Garda, Lake of . Genoa, Gulf of . . Maggiore, Lake of . Manfredonia, Gulf of Messina, Straits of . Naples, Bay of . . Perugia, Lake of Policastro, Gulf of . Quarnaro, Gulf of Salerno, Gulf of. . . S. Euphemia, Gulf of Spezia, Gulf of . Squillace, Gulf of Yenice, Gulf of . Spain. Alicant, Bay of Ancient Name. Illici Sinus. 474 ISLANDS IN THE MEDITERRANEAN SEA. Islands in the Mediterranean Sea , anciently called Mare Internum . Capri anciently Caprea, Corsica Cyrnus. Elba, or Elva Ilva.* Hieres Stsechades. Ischia . . . , Inarime, or vEnaria. Malta Melita.f Nisida Nesis. Procida Prochyta. Stromboli Strongyle. Sicily Sicania-Siciliae. *’Noticed by Virgil for its mines of iron. | Supposed, by some authors, to be the island where St! Paul was shipwrecked. INDEX Page. Abano, Baths of 301 Abbey of S. Denis 2 Camaldoli, near Florence. 85, 289 Del Bosco, near Novi 110 Abbeville Appendix 3 335 Adelsberg .ap. 433 Adrian's Villa 219 Agata, S 229 Agnano, Lake of 255 Agnello, S 289 Aicha ap. 426 Aiguebelle ap. 391 Aix-les-Bains ap. ib. Aix-la-Chapelle ap. 431 Aix-en-Provence ap. 345 Albano 224 Alessandria 109 Alicant ap. 323 Alphabetical List of Towns, Ri- vers, etc., with their ancient Names ap. 465-474 Alps, Jura chain, passage of. . . 28 Alps, Maritime, ditto 106 Alps, Rhaetian, ditto ap. 407 Amalfi 290 Amiens ap. 335 Amsterdam ap. 448 Amphion, source of 37 Ancient marine festival at Sor- rento 292 Ancona ap. 398 Angers ap. 356 Antibes ap. 346 Antiquities between Baccano and Rome 121-123 Anvers ap. 448 Aquapendente 121 Arboga ap. 457 Arcy, Grottos of 27 Arezzo 297 Arona. 45 Arqua, 301 Aschersleben ap. 423 Page. Assens ap. 452 Assisi . . . . 296 Asti 109 Astroni. 256 Avallyon 27 Avernus, Lake of 252 Aversa, Lunatic Asylum at. . . . 230 Austrian Dominions — Passports — Money — Post-horses — Best Money to take from Tuscany into Germany ap. 411, 412 Avignon ap. 345 Augsburgh ap. 425 Augst ap. 425 Auray 355 Aussig 312 Autun a ap. 342 Auxerre 27 Auxonne 28 Baden ap. 432 Baccano. . . 123 Badajos. ap. 436 Bagni di Lucca 114 Bagni di Pisa 99 Baiae, excursion to 250 Bank-notes, where to exchange them for Napoleons ap. 326 Bargains with Innkeepers . . ap. ib. Bar-le-Duc ap. 351 Barcelona. ap. 323. 440 Basle ap. 425 Bataglia 301 Baths, German, namely, Carls- bad, Pyrmont, Spa ap. 430 Baveno 44 Bayonne ap. 349 Beauvais 2 Bellinzone ap. 358 Belgirata 46 Benoit, S., Cascade of ap. 392 Bergamo... ap. 399 Bergen .ap. 458 476 INDEX. Page. Bernard, S., passage of .... ap. 358 Besan^on ap. 353 Best road from Calais to Paris through Beauvais ap. 335 Bocchetta, passage of. .ap. 363, 400 Bois-le-Duc ap. 448 Bologna, description of that city and its Environs — Masters for the Instruction of young Persons 54, 55 Bolsena, Lake of. ... 122 Town of 121 Bonneville 32 Bordeaux ap, 349 Borgo, S. Donino 51 Borromean Islands 45 Boulogne ap. 334, 409 Breda ap. 448 Brescia ap. 399 Brest ap. 349 Brieux, S ap. ib. Brigg 40 Bris, S 27 Bronze Statues first brought to perfection in Etruria 61 Brunswick, price of Post-horses, etc. ap. 419 Brunswick, description of that city ap. 423 Brussels, description of. . . . ap. 428 Budin 312 Buonconvento 121 Burgos ap. 439 Cadiz ap. 443 Caen ap. 355 Cahors ap. 354 Calais 1 Calais, distance from, to Pa- ris ap. 332 Cambray ap. 335 Campo-Marone Ill Camuscia ap. 397 Canal of Languedoc ap. 333 Capri, description of 291 Capua, modern 229 Capua, ancient 256 Careggi de J Medici 83 Carignano 108 Carlscrona . .ap. 454 Carrara 102 Cascade of Terni. 295 Caserta, excursion to 256 Castel-i-mare 291 Cassd , ap, 429 Page. Cattolica ap. 399 Cava, La 278 Cenis, Mont, passage of. ap. 363, 391 Chaldee Inscription at Palermo 283 Ch5lons-sur-Marne ap. 351 Ch&lons-sur-Saone ap. 343 Chambery ap. 344 Chamois, its agility and sagacity 36 Chamouni, Valley of ........ . 33 Champagnole 29 Chapeau, excursion to. 34 Charity, a peculiar trait of it. . 248 Chartres ap. 354 Chateau of Fontainebleau 25 Chateauroux ap. 348 Chaumont ap. 352 Cenotaph of Cicero 228 Chede, Cascade, and Lake of. . 33 Cherbourg ap. 355 Chiandola, La 106 Christiania ap. 457 Christianstad ap. 454 Christiansund ap. 458 Civita Castellana 294 Cleves. ap. 446 Climates of the Continent. . ap. 321 Cluse 32 Coffee, when first known as a beverage 268 Coimbra ap. 436 Col de Tenebres ap. 360 Cologne ap. 428 Como, Lake of. ap. 359 Coni 107 Conegliano 304 Constance, Lake and Town of ap. 425 Copenhagen, and its environs, decription of. ap. 451, 452 Cora 227 Cordova ap. 443 Corneto 122 Cortona 297 Cretins and Goitres, by what means diminished in the Mau- rienne ap. 391 Cumae, excursion to. 254 Custom-house between Gex and Morez ap. 408 Custom-house near Piacenza, ap. ib. Custom-houses at Pont-de-Beau- voisin ap. 343 Custom-house at Ponteba 305 Cuxhaven,. 319 Ci D D D I I I INDEX. 477 Page. Czaslau 311 Dantzig ap. 424 Dejean and Emery, Yoiturins ap. 329 Denmark, Money — Price of Post-horses — Passports, etc. ap. 449, 450 Dieppe ap. 336 Dijon 28 Diligence from London to Pa- ris ap. 329 Doccia, Monastery of. 84 Dole 28 Domo-d 3 Ossola 44 Dovaine, Frontier Custom-house 36 Douay ap. 335 Dover, best Inn ap. 329 Dover, Custom-house ap. 409 Dresden, Population, Architec- ture, Religion, Character of Inhabitants, Inns, objects best worth notice 313 Royal Gallery of Pictures . . . 314 Treasury 316 Cabinet of antique Sculpture and China 316, 317 Distance from Vienna to Dres- den, and from Dresden to Hamburgh 317 Dresden, [Appendix.] Money of Saxony — Price of Post-horses — Weights and Measures — Prices at Hotels — Restaura- teurs — Wages of a Valet-de- place — - Carriages — Sedan- chairs, etc. Articles best worth purchasing — Post-Of- fice — Diligences — Expense of franking Letters for Great Britain ap. 41 7, 418 Dunkelsbuhl ap. 425 Dunkerque ap. 350 Eboli 284 Echelles, passage of. . . .ap. 343, 363 Ecksioe ap. 454 Eger ap. 431 Elvas ap. 436 Emden ap. l\!\7 Emissario, near Albano 224 Enkoping a p. 457 Environs of Florence 83 Erfurt ap. 423 Esseck a p, 432 Etrurians, the first comedians who exhibited in Italy 85 Page. Evian 36 Excursion from Geneva to Cha- mouni, etc 32 Excursion from Plymouth to Or- leans ap. 331 Expense attendant upon con- tinental travelling. . .... .ap. ib. Faenza ap. 398 Family expenses in various parts of the Continent, com- parative view of ap. 390 Famine in the Apennine 116 Fano ap. 398 Ferrara 300 Fiesole 84 Fiorenzuola 51 Florence, origin of that city. . . 57 Palazzo- Vecchio ib. Loggia 58 Piazza del Granduca ib. Royal Gallery of Sculpture and Paintings 58-65 Palazzo-Pitti 65-67 Giardino di Boboli 67 Museo dTstoria Naturale. . . . ib. Duomo, Campanile, and Bap- tistery 68, 69 Church of S. Marco 69 S. S. Annunziata 70 S. Maria Maddalena dei Pazzi 71 Santa Croce 72 S. Lorenzo, new Sacristy, old Sacristy 74 Capella de’ Medici ib. LibreriaMediceo-Laurenziana 75 Church of S. Maria Novella. . ib. Orsanmichele 76 San Spirito ib. Carmine 77 S. Trinita 7S S. Ambrogio ib. S. Gaetano ib. Reale Accademia ib. Oratorio dello Scalzo ib. Palazzi Gerini, Riccardi, Cor- sini, Mozzi, Buonaroti, Strozzi, Uguccioni. . , . . . . 79 Casa dei Poveri 80 Spedali di Bonifazio, S. Ma- ria nuova, degl’ Innocenti — Columns, Bronze Wild Boar, and other Sculpture, ib. Ponte Santa Trinita — The- atres — Mosaic Work — Ac- 478 INDEX. Page. cademia della Crusca — . Hotels — Markets — Wine, Water — Climate — Eng- lish Physician — Boarding- houses 81 List of objects best worth no- tice, as they lie contiguous to each other 82 Festivals ib. Character of the Florentines . 85 Tuscan Peasantry 86, 87 Anecdote relative to a poor Foundling 88, 89 Florence, [Appendix.] Price of apartments at Hotels — Pri- vate Lodging-houses — where to apply for information re- specting the latter —Board- ing-house — prices of various articles — shops— Fire-wood— < Fees to medical men — Mas- ters — Artists— Bankers — Best Padrone di Vetture — Post-of- fice — Country houses near Florence 373-376 Foligno 296 Fondi 228 Fontainebleau, Forest of 25 Forli ap. 398 France, tax on English car- riages ap. 329 Money of France ap. 330 Price of Post-horses ap. 340 Public Diligences, etc.. . .ap. 333 Canal of Languedoc — Messa- gerie a Cheval — distance from Calais to Paris.. . .ap. 334 Distance from Ostend to Pa- ris — Dieppe to Paris— Ha- vre to Paris ap. ib. Frangy ap. 391 Frankfort on the Mein ap. 423 Frankfort on the Oder .... .ap. 424 Frascati, excursion to 222 Fredericshall ap. k§7 Frejus. ap. 346 Freysing ap. 426 Fulde ap. 423 Gaeta 229 Garda, Lake of ap. 399 Garigliano 229 Geneva, description of that town 30, 31 Geneva, Lake of. 31 Page. Geneva, [Appendix.] Draught- horses — Money — Post-office — Expense bf living at Ge- neva — Diligences — Price of Post-horses 357, 358 Genlis. ... 28 Genoa, description of. ... . 103, 104 Hotels — Provisions — Climate — Character of the Genoese 105 Genzano, and the Festival of Flora 226 Genevre, Mont, passage of. .ap. 394 Gerona ap. 440 Gex, passports .ap. 408 Giessen ap. 429 Gingoux, S . 37 Gotha ap. 423 Gothard, S., Passage of . ... ap. 358 Gottingen, description of .. ap. 424 Gottingen, excursion thence to Hartz ap. 429, 430 Gothenborg . ap. A57 Granada, description of that city and the Fortress of Al- hambra ap. 441 Gray ap. 353 Gratz ap. 433 Grenoble ...ap. 353 Grodno ap. 464 Groningen ap. 448 Grotto-Ferrata 222 Hague, the ap. 446 Halle, ap. 423 Hamburgh, description of. ... . 318 Hamburgh, [Appendix.] Money — Bankers 5 accounts, etc. — Pound weight — price of din- ner at a table d’hote — price of Claret — Cambric, the ar- ticle best worth purchasing . 418 Hanau ap. 423 Hanover, price of post - horses, etc ap. 420 Hanover, description of. . . . ap. 424 Hannibal’s Route into Italy . . . 297 Helvoetsluys ap. 447 Herculaneum 258-260 Hesse, price of post-horses, etc ap. 419 Hollabrun 310 Horace’s Farm 221 Hours when Churches and Pa- laces in Italy are shown 47 Hyeres 348 l! li I: > I I J 1 ; J INDEX. Page. Igiau 511 Imola ap. 398 Inspruck ap. 407 Ischia, description of that island 293 Itri ap. 228 Jezelsdorf. 310 Judenburgh. . 307 Juliers ap. 431 Kaschau ap. 433 Kingdom of the Netherlands, Holland — Money — Post- horses— Treckschuyts, etc.— Expense of travelling post- expense of travelling in a Treckschuyt— Dutch inns ap. 444, 445 Klagenfurt 306 Krieglach. 307 Lago-Maggiore 45 Landshut ap. 426 Lands-le-bourg .ap. 392 Lariccia, or Aricia.. . 226 Lascia Passare. . . .ap. 396, 397, 408 Laval ap. 349 Lauffenburgh, fall of the Rhine ap. 425 Laundresses, their prices at Florence 375 at Rome 383 at Naples . 388 Lavinium 226 Laybach ap. 433 Leghorn, description of that Town and Port — Inns — Pro- testant Chapel Ill, 112 Leghorn, [Appendix.] Prices of various articles — Things best worth purchasing — Provi- sions . — Public conveyances from Leghorn to Pisa — Post- office 367-369 Leipsic, description of that city i — prices at the Theatre — Fairs — Hotels — Wages of a Valet-de-place — Carriages ap. 422 Length of an Italian post .. .ap. 362 f Lenzen . . * ap. 422 Leoben ap. 307 ■ Lerida ap. 441 | Leutschau ap. 433 fLeuwarden ap. 448 Leyden ap. 446 i. Liege. .. ap. 431 Lille ap. 335 479 Page. Limoni. 107 Limoges ap. 348 Linkoping ap. 454 Lintz .ap. 427 Lisbon, description of the city, and its environs — water — eatables — lodgings— board — fire - wood — amusements — Hotels .ap. 123, 124 Lodi 50 L’Orient ap. 355 Louvain ap. 428 Lucca, description of that city —Inn 112-114 Marlia — Road to the Bagni di Lucca 114 Peasantry — Mode of cultivat- ing this part of the Apen- nine — Villas between the Baths and the city. . . .116, 117 Price of Post-horses in the Lombardo-VenetianRealm, Tuscany, the Principality of Lucca, the Ecclesiastical territories, and the King- dom of Naples ap. 362, 366 Liitzen ap. 422 Lyon, description of that city, ap. 345 Macon . ap. ib. Madrid, description of that city and its environs. ap. 439 Maestricht ap. 447 Magdeburgh 318, and ap. 422 Maglan, Valley of 32 Malaga ap. 442 Mans, Le .ap. 356 Mahrburgh ap. 433 Mantua ap. 407 Marburgh ap. 429 Marengo, Plain of. Ho Marino, San, Republic of . .ap. 398 Martorell ap. 440 Marseille ap. 343 Martigny 3S Massa di Carrara 102 Massa di Sorrento 290 Maurice, S 37 Means of preserving health dur- ing a long journey ap. 326 Meillerie, Rocks of 37 Meissen 317, and ap. 422 Melun ap. 409 Mer de Glace 34, 35 Merida ap. 436 480 INDEX. Page. Merzhofen 307 Mestre 301 Midi, Dent du 38 Milan, description of that city and its Environs 47-50 Milan, [Appendix.] Lodging- houses — Hotels — Carriages — Valets-de-place — Boxes at La Scala — Post-Office 414 Mile, German, length of. . . .ap. 412 Minturnum . . 229 Misenum 253 Mittau ap. 464 Modena 53 Moelk ap. 427 Mola di Gaeta 229 Molaret ap. 394 Montanvert 35 Montauban ap. 354 Mont Blanc 34 Monte di Fo 56 Montefiascone 122 Montmeillant ap. 391 Monte Nuovo 252 Montereau ap. 409 Montpellier ap. 347 Monterosi, Lake of 123 Mont Rose. . . 45 Montserrat ap. 441 Monza 5o Morcles, Dent de 38 Moscow, description of. ...ap. 463 Moulins ap. 344 Munich, description of. ap. 426, 427 Munster ap. 429 Nancy. ap. 352 Nant d’Arpenas, Cascade of. . . 32 Nantes. .-...■ . .ap. 356 Naples, situation, Bay, etc. ... 230 Studii Publici 231-239 Naples — Museo Borbonico, when open to the public. . 239 Naples — Travellers advised to obtain an introduction to the Canonico Don An- drea di Jorio. ib. Palazzo Reale ib. Chiesa di S. Ferdinando. . .. ib. Castel Nuovo 240 Gastello dell 5 Uovo ib. Chiesa di S. Maria del Parto. ib. di S. Brigida ib. di S. Giovanni di Fioren- tini ib. Page. Chiesa di Plncoronata. 240 della Pieta de 5 Torchini.. . ib. di S. Maria della Nuova.. . ib. di Monte Oliveto ib. di Gesii Nuovo ib. di S. Chiara ib. di S. Giovanni Maggiore. . 241 del Salvatore. ib. di S. Domenico Maggiore. ib. dello Spirito Santo ib. di S. Maria della Sanita . . ib. di S. Giovanni a Carbonara ib. de 5 S.S. Apostoli ib. Arcivescovado 242 di S. Filippo Neri 243 di S. Paolo Maggiore ib. di S. Maria Maggiore 244 di S. Pietro a Majella ib. Cappella di S. Severo ib. Chiesa della Nunziata. ..... ib. di S. Maria del Carmine. . 245 di S. Martino de 5 Certosini ib. Castello di S. Elmo 246 Palazzo-Berio ib. Albergo de 5 Poveri ib. Theatres ib. Promenades 247 Forum Nundinarium ib. Monument to the memory of Eustace ib. Water... ib. Climate of Naples ib. Society and Festivals 248 Hotels ib. Character of the Neapolitans, ib. List of objects best worth no- tice, as they lie contiguous to each other 249 Naples, [Appendix.] Passports — Fees to Custom-house Officers — Money of Naples — Exchange... ap. 384 Bankers — Common mea- sure — Weights — Hotels, and other Lodging-houses, prices at, and situation — Carriages— Servants 5 wages — Price of various articles — English warehouses — English medical men— Mas- ters — Boxes at Theatres — Post-Office.. a/?. 385-389 Narbonne. ap. 354 Narni, Augustus’s Bridge at . . . 294 INDEX. 481 Page. Page. Naum burgh ap. 423 Nepi ap. 397 Neptune, Grotto of, at Tivoli. . 220 Nero, Baths of. 253 Nevers ap. 344 Neukirken 307 New road from Genoa through Lucca to Pisa 102 New road from Genoa through the Val di Scrivia to Turin, avoiding the Bocchetta 109 Nice, description of that city and its climate 106 Nikoeping ap. 454 Nimeguen ap. 447 Niort ap. 355 Nisida 251 Nismes ap. 'bkl Nocera 278 Nordheim .ap. 424 Nordlingen ap. 425 Norkoeping ap. 454 Novara ap. 401 Novgorod ap. 402 Nuremberg ap. 427 Odensee ap. 451 Ofen, or Buda ap. 432 Oneglia 106 Oporto ap. 436 Orange „ ap. 345 Orleans ap. 348 1 Orvietto. 122 i Ossaia 296 Osoppo 304 Ostend ap. 428 ’ Otricoli ap. 397 Packets from Guxhaven to Har- wich 319 Falmouth to the Mediter- ranean ap. 322 London to Calais ap. 327 Dover to Calais ap. 328 Dover to Ostend ap. ib. Brighton to Dieppe. . . .ap. ib. Southampton to Havre, ap. ib. Plymouth to Bordeaux. ap. 329 Plymouth to Guernsey, ap. 331 Colchester to Ostend . . ap. 428 Ostend to Harwich. . ..ap. ib. Ostend to Margate. . . . ap. ib. Helvoetsluys to Harwich ap. 447 Falmouth to Lisbon. ..ap. 434 Stralsund to Ystad .... ap. 454 Paderborn .. .ap. 429 Padua 300 Psestum, excursion to 278-285 Paintings found in Hercula- neum and Pompeii — Paint- ing, Art of, its rise and pro- gress 260 Palestrina, excursion to 223 Pollone, game of. 83 Pamplona ap. 438 Paris, improvements in that city 3 Musee Royal 4-16 Musee du Luxembourg 16 ^cole Royale des Beaux Arts ib. Bibliotheque du Roi ib. Mazarine ib. de S. Genevieve 17 de P Arsenal ib. de la Yille ib. du Musee d’Histoire Natu- relle ib. de la Faculte de Medecine ib. Musee d’Histoire Naturelle and Jardin du Roi 17-18 Theatres 18 Manufacture Royale des Glaces ib. Manufacture Royale des Ta- pisseries ib. Colonne de la Place Vendome ib. Arc de Triomphe de 1’Etoile . ib. Porte S. Denis ib, Porte S. Martin ib. Tribunal du Corps Legislatif 19 Basilique de Notre-Dame . . . ib. Pantheon ib. Garde Meuble ib. Hotel Royal des Invalides.. . ib. Institution Royale des Sourds- Muets 20 Hospice de la Saltpetriere . . ib. Hopital des Enfans-Trouves. ib. Observatoire ib. Palais du Temple ib. Palais de la Bourse 21 Greniers de Reserve ib. Abattoirs..... ib. Halle au B16 ib. Halle aux Yins ib. Marche 5 la Volaille ib. Bridges ib. Fontaine du Boulevard de Bondi 22 des Innocens ib. de Grenelle * ib. de la Bastille ib. Cimetieres and Catacombes.,22, 23 2 T 482 INDEX. Page. S. Cloud 23 Sevres ib. Versailles lb. Present State of Society at Paris 23, 24 Paris, [Appendix.] Hotels, etc. — Eatables and wine — Res- taurateurs 336 Cafes — Wages of a Valet-de- place — Carriages — Public Boats -—Provisions --Shops — Masters — English Li- brary and Newspapers — Notary public — English Surgeon — Apothecaries, Chemists, etc. — Prices at the Theatres — Messageries Royales — Offices of the . Coche d’eau — Voiturins — General Post-Office— Petite Poste 337-341 Parma 51, 52 Particulars relative to travelling ing in Italy ap. 364-367 Passau ap. 427 Passignano 296 Passports, how to proceed re- specting them on leaving London for Paris ap. 323 Passports, how to proceed re- specting them previous to quitting Paris ; and how, on quitting England, to prevent detention at Paris respecting them 24 Passports for returning from Rome to England ap. 402 Pavia 50 Peasants’ ball at Careggi de 5 Medici 87 Posilipo, Grotto of 251 Perigueux • ap. 348 Perpignan ap. 354 Perugia 296 Pesaro ap. 398 Pescia 117 Petersburgh and its environs ap. 460-462 Peterswald 313 Peypus, Lake of . ap. 460 Piacenza 50 Pietole, birth-place of Virgil, ap. 407 Piperno . . 227 Pisa, description of that city and its environs ....... 90-100 Page. Character of the Pisans — Hotels — Fountain-water— Theatre — and Battle of the Bridge 100 Illumination in honour of S. Ranieri 101 Carnival ib. Climate ib. Pisa, [Appendix.] Fees to Cus- tom - house Officers, etc. — Lodging - houses — Prices of various articles — Masters — Fees to medical men, etc.— Post-Office — Diligence from Pisa to Florence 369-372 Pisevache, Cascade of the 38 Pistoja, description of that city 117 Poggibonsi ap. 396 Poggi-a-Cajano, near Florence . 117 Poggi Imperiale, near Florence 84 Poitiers ap. 355 Poligny, passports ap. 408 Pompeii, excursion to, and de- scription of, that city . . 264, 277 Ponte Centino 121 Ponteba, Custom-house there . 305 Ponte Molle 123 Ponte Mammolo 219 Ponte Sanguinetto 296 Pontine Marshes 227 Pordenon 304 Portici 260 Porto Venere 103 Portugal, money of ap. 423 Price of draught-horses, etc. ap. 434 Prato Fiorito, near Lucca .... 115 Pratolino, near Florence . . , . . 84 Prague, description of that city —Inns 311,312 Prague, [Appendix.] Articles best worth purchasing — Wa- ges of a Valet-de-place — Car- riages 416 Presburgh ap. 432 Prices at Inns in France . . ap. 330 Prices at Inns in Italy .... ap. 365 Prices usually demanded by Voiturins ap. ib. Procida 293 Prussian dominions — Price of post-horses, etc ap. 419 Passports ap. ib. INDEX. 483 Pa^e. Prussian dominions. — Quedlin- burgh ap. 423 Kaab ap. 432 Radicofani 121 Ratafia, a deadlypoison, as now made in France and Italy, ap. 339 Ratisbon ap. 426 Ravenna ap. 398 Reggio 52 Rheims ap. 351 Rennes ap. 355 Requisites for Invalids, and other Travellers, on leaving England ap. 324 Rhine, Fall of, in the Rhein- wald ap. 361 Rhine, Fall of, at Schaffhausen ap. 425 Rig a ap. 459 Rimini ap. 398 Ringsted. ap. 451 Rinteln ap. 431 Ro, Church there 46 Road, from Genoa to Nice . . . 105 Rochelle, La ap. 355 jRoeskilde ap. 451 Rome, MaParia Best situations Society Excavations made by the French 123-125 Travellers advised to visit the Ruins for the first time by moonlight 126 Roman filial piety 158 Antiquities within the Walls of Rome, namely : — Foro Romano 126 Tempio di Giove Tonante . . ib. I Tempio della Concordia . . . ib. J Arco di Settimio Severo . . . ib. I Tempio di Saturno 127 I Colonna di Phocas ib. i Tempio di Antonino e Faus- I I, tina ib. Tempio di Giove Statore . . . ib. Chiesa di S. Maria Liberatrice ib. I Tempio di Remo 128 della Pace ib. di Venere e Roma ib. || Arco di Tito 129 I Colosseo 129, 130 I Arco di Costantino 130 I Chiesa di S. Teodoro ib. Antiquities of Rome , etc. Page. Arco di Settimio Severo in Ve- labro 1M Arco di Giano Quadrifronte . ib. Cloaca Maxima ib. Chiesa di S. Maria in Cosme- din ib. Tempio di Vesta 132 della Fortuna Virile . . . ib. Palazzo de’ Cesari 132-134 Circus Maximus 134 Chiesa di S. Gregorio sul Monte-Celio 135 Termi di Tito ib. Sette Salle ib. Chiesa di S. Martino in Monte ib. di S. Pietro in Vincoli . . 136 di S. Maria della Navicella ib. di S. Stefano Rotondo . . ib. Obelisk of the Piazzo del Po- polo 137 of the Trinita de 5 Monti, ib. Villa Medici ib. Statues and Obelisk in Piazza di Monte-Cavallo ib. Chiesa di S. Bernardo ib. di S. Maria degli Angeli 138 The Pope’s Oil Cellar . ... . 139 Obelisk of S. Maria Maggiore ib. Column in Piazza di S. Maria Maggiore ib. Basilica di S. Maria Maggiore ib. Obelisk di S. Giovanni in La- terano 140 Battisterio di Costantino . . . ib. Basilica di S. Giovanni in La- terano ib. Scala Santa — Triclinium . . . 141 Anfiteatro Castrense ib. Basilica di Santa Croce in Ge- rusalemme ib. Chiesa di S. Bibiana 142 Tempio di Minerva Medici . ib. Arco di Gallieno ib. Remains of Aqueducts ib. Chiesa di S. Prassede ib. Campidoglio ib. Chiesa di S. Maria d’Aracoeli 144 di S. Pietro in Carcere. . ib. Palazzo del Senatore ib. Palazzo de’ Conservatori . 145-147 Museo Capitolino 147-151 Travellers advised to visit the Museums by torch -light; and how to obtain permis- sion for so doing 147 484 INDEX Antiquities of Rome, etc. Page. Tempio di Pallade 151 Tempio e Foro di Nerva. . . . 152 Foro e Colonna Trajana. . . . ib. Dogana Pontificia 351 Obelisk of Monte Citorio . . . ib. Colonna Antonina ib. Mausoleo d’Augusto ib. Campo Marzo ib. Mausoleo-Adriano ib. Tempio del Sole 154 Obelisk in Piazza S. Maria so- pra Minerva ib . Chiesa di S. Maria sopra Mi- nerva 155 Pantheon 155-157 Bagni d’Agrippa 157 Piazza Navona ib. Chiesa di S. Agnese, Piazza Navona • ib. Teatro di Marcello 158 Portico d J Octavia ib. Tempio d’ Esculapio ib. Chiesa di S. Cecilia in Traste- vere 159 Basilica di S. Maria in Traste- vere ib. Chiesa di S. Prisca ib. di S. Sabina 160 di S. Alessio ib. Sepolcro di Cajo Cestio .... ib. Terme di Caracalla ib. Sepolcro de 5 Scipioni 161 Porta S. Sebastiano ib. Antiquities near Rome, name- ly, Basilica di S. Sebastiano alle Catacombe ib. Circo di Caracalla 162 Sepolcro di Cecilia Metella. . 163 Public Ustrina ib. Basilica di S. Paolo ib. Chiesa di S. Paolo alle Ire Fontane . . . . • 164 Excavations ib. Chiesa di S. Urbano ib. Fontana della Dea Egeria. . . 165 Tempio di Redicolo ib. Porta Pia ib. Chiesa di S. Agnese fuori di Porta Pia ib. Chiesa di S. Costanza ib. Mons Sacer 166 Porta S. Lorenzo ib. Basilica di S. Lorenzo ib. Porta Maggiore ib. Tor de" Schiavi . 167 Antiquities of Rome, etc. Page. Porta S. Giovanni 167 Ter^ple of Fortuna Muliebris ib, Roma Vecchia ib. Porta Angelica ib. Porta Latina ib. Porta Pinciana ib. Porta Portense ib. Porta di S. Pancrazio .... ib. Pons AElius, now Ponte S. An- gelo 168 Pons Triumphalis ib. Ponte Sisto ib. Pons Fabricius, now Ponte dei Quattro Capi ib. Pons Cestius ib. Pons Palatinus ib. Pons Sublicius ib. Basilica di S. Pietro. . . 169-174 Vaticano 174 Cappella Sistina 175 Cappella Paolina ib. Stanze di Raffaello .... 175-179 Easel-Paintings 179 Method of seeing the Statues of the Vatican Museum by torch-light 180 Museo Chiaramonti . . . 180-182 Pio-Clementino . . . 182-188 Libraria Vaticano .... 188-190 Chiesa dei P. P. Cappuccini. 190 Palazzo Barberini ib. Chiesa di S. Maria della Vit- toria 191 Fontana di Termine ib. Chiesa di S. Andrea a Monte Cavallo ib. Palazzo Pontificio 192 Palazzo Rospigliosi . . . 192, 193 Fontana di Trevi 193 Chiesa di S. Maria del Popolo ib. di S. Carlo al Corso . . . ib. di S. Lorenzo in Lucina 194 di S. Ignazio ib- de S. S. Apostoli .... [b- di S. Maria di Loretto . . ib. di Gesii ib. di S. Andrea della Valle 195 della Trinita de J Pele- grini ib- di S. Carlo a Catenari . ib. di S. Giovanni de J Fio- rentini 196 di S. Maria in Vallicella ib. di S. Maria della Pace • ib- di S. Agostino 197 INDEX. Antiquities of Nome, etc. Page. Palazzo Borghese 197 Sciarra . . . 198 Doria 199 Bracciano 200 Colonna 201 Giustiniani ib. Massimi ib. Braschi 202 Farnese ib. Spada 203 Mattei ib. Costaguti 204 Falconieri ib. Farnesina 205 Corsini ib. Accademia di S. Luca .... ib. Villas near Rome , namely — Villa Olgiata ib. Borghese ib. Ludovisia 207 Albani ib. Mattei 209 Doria-Pamfili ib. Madama 210 Hospitals ib. Mosaic Manufacture ib. Basilicae, when open— Palaces, Villas, and Museums, how to obtain admittance when they are not open to the public, and what fees are expected by the persons who show them ib. Artists 211 Bankers ib. ' Theatres ib. Carnival ib. Remnant of the ancient Sa- turnalia ib. Amusements during Lent . . 212 Ceremonies of the Holy Week, Easter-day, etc 212-216 Promenades — Hotels .... 217 ■ List of objects best worth no- tice as they lie contiguous to each other • . ib. I Rome, [Appendix.] Current I, coins — Bankers’ accounts- — 1 Weights — Measures — Hotels i and other Lodging-houses — j Water — Air — Prices of vari- ous articles — Confectioner — Medicines — Roman pearls — ! Masters — Best shops for anti- | quities, modern works of art, 485 Page. etc. — Theatres — Unfurnish- ed apartments — Procaccio — Best Voiturin — Post-Office 378-384 Ronciglione 122 Rosenberg ap. 433 Rotterdam ap. 446 Roveredo ap. 407 Rovigo 300 Rubicon ap. 398 Russia, Money of — Price of Post-horses— Other requisites for Travellers — Russian Voi- turins — Passports . . ap. 458, 459 Salenche 33 Salerno 279 S. Jean de Maurienne . . . ap. 391 S. Lorenzo Nuovo 121 S. Malo ap. 356 S. Quirico . . 121 S. Quentin, Tunnel at . . . ap. 351 Samogia ap. 398 Saorgio 107 Saragossa ap. 439, 440 Savigliano 108 Scarena 106 Schaffhausen ap. 425 Schlan 312 Schottwien 307 Sculpture, Art of, its rise and progress 4 Secheron 32 Sedan ap. 351 Segovia ap. 436 Semlin ap. 432 Sesto-Calende 46 Sestri^res, Col de ap. 395 Seville ap. 443 Siena, Wine — Water — Eat- bles — Character of the-Sanesi — Objects best worth notice — Maremma 118-121 Sierre 39 Simplon, The, passage of . . 40-44 Price of post-horses to ascend the mountain ap. 363 Sion 39 Sleswick ap. 452 Smolensko ap. 464 Soedertellje ap. 454 Soissons ap. 350 Sorrento — Description of that city and its Piano 285-290 Sorrento, [Appendix.] Lodg- ing-houses — Provisions — 2 t 2 486 INDEX. Page. Boats — Best mode of convey- ing a Family from Naples to Sorrento — Post-Office . . . 389, 390 Physician 390 Sospello 106 Spain, Money of— Price of Post- horses, etc. — Requisites for Travellers in that country, ap. 437, 438 Spilimbergo 304 Spilonga 296 Splugen, passage of ...... . ap. 360 Spoleto 295 Stargard ap. 424 Stavanger ap. 458 Stendal ap. 422 Stockerau 310 Stockholm, description of that city and its environs, ap. 454, 455 Stones, shower of, at Pienza. . . 264 Stralsund ap. 454 Strasburgh ap. 352 Straubing ap. 427 Susa ap. 394 Sweden, Money of — 'Price of Post-horses, etc ap. 452, 453 Switzerland, Post-horses, etc. — Best mode of travelling — Money, etc ap. 357 Tagliamento, Torrent so called 304 Tavernettes ap. 393 Temple of Clitumnus ... .... 296 Tenda, Col di 107 Terracina 227 Terni 295 Thrasymenus, Lake of, 296, and ap. 397 Tivoli, excursion to 218 Tokay, wine of ap. 433 Torgau ap. 424 Torre del Greco, destruction of 263 della Nunciata 264 di tre Ponte. 227 Torrecelli 121 Tortona ap. 405 Toulouse ap. 354 Tours ap. ib. Tourtemagne, Cascade of. ... . 39 Traskirken 307 Trebia , Torrent so called, 51, and ap. 398 Trent ap. 407 Treviso 304 Trieste ap. 433 Trolhaetta, Cascades of. . . .ap. 457 Page. Troyes ap. 352 Tver. ap. 463 Turin, description of that city — Hotels — Climate — Water — Environs 108, 109 Tuscany, current coins of — Weights — Measures — Prices^ at Hotels — Wages of Valet- de-place ap. 366 Tusculum 222 Tyrnau ap. 432 Valencia ap. 323. 439 Valence ap. 345 Valladolid ap. 439 Vall-Ombrosa 85 Vannes ap. 355 Velleia, Ruins of. 52 Velletri 226 Venice, objects best worth no- tice there — Promenades — Theatres— Hotels — Water 301-304 Venice, [Appendix.] Price of Apartments and Dinner at Hotels — Price, per day, of a Gondola — Wages of a Valet- de-place— Articles best worth purchasing — Post-Office. 412, 413 Vercelli ap. 401 Verona, description of that city, and of Juliet’s Death and Tomb ap. 399, 400 Vesuvius, excursion to 257 Vezoul ap. 352 Vicenza, description of. . . . .ap. 400 Vico, Lake of 122 Vienna — Custom-house — Ho- tels— Objects best worth no- tice — Coffee-houses — W ater — National dish — Theatres — Fireworks — Distance from Florence 308-310 Vienna, [Appendix.] Pound weight, and braccio — Prices at one of the Hotels— Restau- rateurs — Wages of a Valet-de- place — Carriages and Sedan- chairs—Medical men — Shops — Articles best worth pur- chasing — Prices at the Ope- ra-house — Post-Office — Dili- gences 415, 416 Vienne ap. 345 Via - Reggio. ap. 395 Vietri 278 INDEX. 487 Page. Villach 305 Vionnaz ap. 358 Viterbo 4 . . 122 Voltaggio ill Voltaire’s Villa at Ferney 31 Voyage from Amsterdam to Utrecht ... .ap. khl from Bordeaux, up the Ga- ronne, to Toulouse . . ap. 333 from Dresden, down the Elbe, to Hamburgh. 317, 318 from Ferrara to Venice. . . 300 from Frankfort on the Mein to Cologne ap. 420 from Francolino to Venice 301 from Genoa to Leghorn. . , 111 from Genoa to Nice. . . 1.05, 108 from Guernsey to S. Malo ap. 331 from Hamburgh, down the Elbe, to Cuxhaven. . 318, 319 from Leghorn to Pisa, by the Canal ap. 388 from Lyon, down the Rhone, to Avignon ap. 346 from Mayence, down the Rhine, to Coblentz. , ap. 429 from Naples to Procida and Ischia 293 from Naples to Sorrento.. . 285 from Sorrento to Amalfi . . 290 from Sorrento to Castel-a- I Mare. 291 from Sorrento to Capri. . . ib. from Orleans, down the Loire, to Nantes ap. 331 from Ratisbon, on the Da- nube, to Vienna.. ... ap. 420 from Toulouse, on the Ca- nal of Languedoc, to Be- ziers I Tr^cala . . . u paaidi • ••••> ••••••••* Utrecht Water Diligence .... Weissenfels Wurtzburgh Wurzen Xeres de la Frontera . . . Yeselles, or Isella 44 Ystad Znaim 310 Zwolle Page. APPENDIX ROUTES. FRANCE. From Calais, through Amiens, to Paris.. 334 Calais, through Beauvais, to Paris. 335 Ostend, through Lille, to Paris ib. Dieppe, through Rouen, to Paris. 336 Havre, through Rouen, to Paris. ib. Paris, through Dijon, to Geneva 342 Lyon to Geneva, by Cerdon and S. Germain-de-Joux ib. Paris, through Lyon, to Chambery . ib. Paris, through Nevers and Moulins, to Lyon 344 Lyon, through Avignon and Aix, to Nice 345 Avignon to Nismes and Montpellier 347 Aix to Marseilles and Tou- lon ib. Paris to Bordeaux and Bay- onne 348 Paris to Brest. 349 Paris to Dunkirk. 350 Lille, through Ypres, to Ostend ib. Lille to Bruxelles ib. Paris, through Bruxelles, to Ostend ib. Paris, through Rheims and Sedan, to Liege 351 Paris, through Ch&Ions-sur- Marne, to Strasburgh. . . ib. Paris to Strasburgh, through Troyes, Langres, Vezoul, Be fort, and Basle 352 Paris, through Langres, to Besangon 353 Paris to Grenoble ib. Paris, through Toulouse, to Perpignan 354 Paris, through Chartres, to La Rochelle ib. Paris, through Caen, to Cherbourg 355 Paris, through Rennes, to L 5 Orient ib. INDEX. m Page. From Paris to Nantes 355 Nantes, through Rennes, to S.Malo 356 SWITZERLAND. From Geneva, by the Simplon, to Milan 357 ITALY. From Geneva to Chambery. . . . 391 Chambery, over the Mont- Cenis, to Turin ib. Nice, through Genoa, to Pisa, with an account of the Bridle-road 395 Leghorn, through Pisa, to Florence ib. Pisa, through Lucca and Pistoja, to Florence. . . . 396 Pisa to Modena ib. Florence, through Siena, to Rome ib. Florence, through Perugia, to Rome 397 Genoa, through Bologna, Rimini, Sinagalia, An- cona, Loretto, and Ter- ni, to Rome ib. Milan, through Bergamo, Verona, Vicenza, and Pa- dua, to Venice, Bologna, and Florence 399 Milan to Bologna, through Piacenza, Parma, Reg- gio, and Modena 401 Milan to Turin ib. Aoste to Turin ib. Turin, over the Maritime Alps, to Nice ib. Turin, over the Bocchetta, to Genoa ib. Rome to Naples 402 Naples to Paestum ib. Environs of Naples 403 En voiturier. From Pisa to Massa and Car- rara ib. Rome to Florence, through Perugia ib. Florence, through Siena, to Rome ib. Page. From Rome to Naples 403 Calais to Rome, during the winter of 1820 404 Florence, through Bologna, Venice, Vienna, Prague, and Dresden, to Ham- burgh 406 Florence, through Mantua, and by the Tyrol, to Augsburgh and Wurtz- burgh 407 Rome, through Florence and Milan, and by the Simplon, to Geneva ; and over the Jura Alps to Poligny, Dijon, Melun, Paris, and Boulogne, during summer 408 Florence, during the sum- mer of 1822, to Venice, Milan, Turin, and over Mont Cenis, to Pont de Beauvoisin 410 GERMANY. From Hamburgh to Berlin. . . . 420 Hamburgh to Leipsic. . . . . 422 Leipsic to Dresden . ib, Leipsic, through Gotha, to Frankfort on the Mein. . ib. Leipsic to Brunswick 423 Brunswick to Hanover. . . . 424 Hanover to Gottingen. .... ib. Leipsic to Dantzic ib. Frankfort on the Mein to Augsburgh 425 Augsburgh to Constance, Schaffhausen, and Basle ib. Augsburgh to Ratisbon. . . 426 Ratisbon to Munich ib. Ratisbon to Prague 427 Vienna, through Ratisbon and Bruxelles, to Ostend 427, 428 Frankfort on the Mein, through Cassel, to Mun- ster 429 Vienna to Carlsbad, through Eger and Zwoda 431 Hanover to Pyrmont ib. Hamburgh to Pyrmont. . . . ib. Bruxelles, through Aix-la- Chapelle and Liege, to Spa ib. INDEX. 489 Page. Page. From Vienna to Baaden 432 Vienna to Pres burgh ib. Teutsch-Altenburgh to Bel- grade. ib . Presburgh to Kascbau and Tokay. ............ ib. Vienna to Trieste. 433 PORTUGAL. From Lisbon to Oporto 436 Lisbon to Madrid ib. From Nimeguen to Rotterdam and Helvoetsluys 447 Nimeguen to Bois-le-Duc and Breda 448 Bois-le-Duc to Anvers. . . . ib. Bergen-op-Zoom to Anvers ib. Amsterdam to Hamburgh, ib. Hamburgh to Amsterdam, by Groningen and Leu- vvarden ib. DENMARK,. SPAIN. From Bayonne to Madrid. .... 438 Perpignan to Barcelona . . 440 Barcelona to Saragossa. . . ib. Madrid to Granada ..... 441 Madrid to Malaga 442 Madrid to Cordova, Seville, and Cadiz . . 443 NETHERLANDS. From Amsterdam to Clevesand Cologne. 446 Cleves to the Hague, Rot- terdam, and Helvoetsluys ib. Amsterdam to Munster. . . 447 Amsterdam to lun den . . . ib. Amsterdam to Utrecht, Bois-le-Duc, and Maes- tricht ............. ib. Amsterdam to Leyden, the Hague, and Rotterdam . ib. From Copenhagen to Ham- burgh 451 Copenhagen to Gothen- borg. . . 452 SWEDEN AND NORWAY. From Stralsund, through Carls- crona, to Stockholm. . . . 454 Stockholm to Upsala. . . . 456 Stockholm to Gothenborg. ib. Gothenborg to Christiania. 457 Christiania to Bergen. . . . ib. RUSSIA. From Riga to Petersburg!!. . . . 469 Petersburgh to Moscow 462, 463 Petersburgh to the Fron- tier of Sweden Moscow to Grodno Moscow to Riga, and the Frontier of Prussia. . . . 463 464 ib. ADDENDA. Sicily, concise history of that Island. . 475-478 Most eligible months for visit- ing it 478 Palermo and its environs 479-484 Alcamo 485 Algesia, and its temple. . 485, 486 Acque Segestane 486 Madonna di Trapani ib. Town of Trapani ib. Mount Eryx ib. Marsala ib. Mazzara 487 StoneQuarry near C ampoBello 487 Castel-Vetrano ib. Selinuntium, and its Temples 487, 488 Sciacca, and its Hot Springs . 489 Siculiana 490 Girgenti, and its Mole . . 490, 491 Agrigen turn, and its Temples 491-495 Licata, the ancient Pliintia . . 495 Terra nova, near the ancient Gcla ib. Caltagirone 496 490 INDEX. Palagonia 496 Biviere di Lentini ib. Town of Lentini ib. Approach to Syracuse ib. Modern Town 497 Ancient Syracuse 497-502 Antiquities on the road to Ca- tania 502 Catania 503-507 Requisites for Travellers who ascend ^Etna 507 Description of iEtna 508 Journey to the Crater during midsummer, 1826 . . . 509-511 Ditto during winter, 1824. 511, 512 Castello di Aci 513 Scopuli Cyclopum ib. Scala di Aci ib. Giarra ib. Castagnoi di cento Cavalli. . ib. Francavilla ib. Giardini ib. Taormina, and remains of the ancient Taurominium. 514, 515 Messina, by whom founded —earthquake of 1773 — de- scription of the city . . 515, 516 Charybdis 517 Scylla ib. Melazzo 518 Excursion by water to Scylla and Rheggio . ib. Excursion to the Lipari Is- lands and Cefalii. . . . 518, 520 Termini. . 519 Page. Character of the Sicilians. . 520 Cattle, vegetable productions, and fish of Sicily ib. Climate 521 Population ib. Manner of Travelling ib. Sicilian money 522 Price of a Lettiga ib. Price of Mules 522 Hire of iEtna Guides, and Charges at Hotels ib. Wages of other Guides, and Requisites for Travellers who make the Tour of the Island ib. Route round the sea-coast 523-525 Routes from Catania to the summit of .Etna 525 Siena, description of that city 127-129 Maremma 129 Splugen, passage of. 534-536 ROUTES. From Genoa, through Lucca, to Pisa, by the new Road. . 526 Genoa to Turin, by the Val di Scrivia ib. Calais, by Pontarlier, to Neuchatel, and thence by Lausanne and Bex over the Simplon to Bo- logna 527, 528 Naples to Calais 529-533 Como, by Mount Splugen, to Zurich 536, 537 ADDENDA. SICILY. Concise History of the Island — most eligible months for visiting it — Palermo — ^gesta— Tra- pani — Marsala — Selinunlium — Sciacca — Agrigentum — Licata — Terranova — Biviere di Len- tini — Syracuse — Catania — /Etna — Giarra— Castagno di cento Cavalli — Francavilla — Tauro- minium — Messina — Melazzo— Rheggio — Lipari Islands — Cefalu — Mermini — Character of tbs Sicilians — Productions of Sicily — Climate — Manner of Travelling — Prices paid by Travellers — Requisites for Travellers — Routes, and Distances from place to place. Sicilia, or, as it is usually called, Sicily, the largest island ' in the Mediterranean Sea, was anciently denominated Sicania , Trinacria ,* Triquetra , and Sicania-Sicilice . Its form is triangular ; each of the extremities being terminated by a promontory ; one of which, an- ciently called Lilybceum , faces Africa ; another, called Pctchy- nwn , faces the Peloponnesus ; and the third, called Pelorum , faces Italy. Tradition says, Pelorum was thus named by Hannibal, in honour of his Pilot, Pelorus. The last mentioned Promontory now bears the appellation of Capo del Faro (from the Pharos erected there) ; Pachynum is called Capo Passaro, and Lilybseum Capo di Boco. Two Rocks, not far from the Sicilian shore, have long been the dread of mariners and the theme of poets ; that, named Scylla, situated a few miles from Messina, on the Calabrian side; and, on the opposite side, in the Straits of Messina, was the other, called Charybdis. During tem- pestuous gales, the noise of the waves, dashing violently against Scylla, and then precipitating themselves into caverns at its base, still resembles the howl of dogs and beasts of prey. 1 Fromils three Promonlories of Lilybseum, Pelorus, and Pac'iynus. 2 See Hoaier, Odyssey, Book xii. — Strabo, “ Dire Scylla there, a scene of horror forms; And here, Charybdis fills the deep with storms : When the tide rushes from her rumbling caves The rough rocks roar, tumultuous boil the waves.” But though Scylla still is, occa- sionally, the terrific monster thus described by Homer, Charybdis has ceased to resemble the appal- ling Whirlpool he mentions: in- deed, it is almost a matter of diffi- culty, now, to ascertain the iden- tical situation of this Whirlpool ; notwithstanding we are told by writers, long subsequent to Ho- mer, that the rapidity of the cur- rents, and the irregular and vio- lent flux and reflux of the sea, in the Straits of Messina, once made Charybdis most dangerous. 2 Sicily is computed to be about sixty-six leagues in length, and in breadth forty-five ; but its size does not seem precisely known. It contains several lofty mountains ; and elevated above them all towers ./Etna, a double-headed giant, con- tinually vomiting sulphur and flames. Several rivers fertilize the Island, which was once deno- minated the Granary of Rome : and were this soil properly tilled, it would produce more corn than any country of its size existing. 6.— Mela, ii. c. 7. — Pausanias, iv. c. 23.— Diodorus Siculus, 4. — Thucydides, i. etc.- and Herodotus, vi. c. 23, 1. 7. c. 28. 2 S * 476 SICILY. [ca. xr. The pasturages, flocks, and herds sacred to Apollo, were celebrated by ancient Bards ; the plain of Enna * was famed for delicious ho- ney ; and, according to Diodorus Siculus, hounds lost their scent in hunting, on account of the odori- ferous flowers which profusely perfumed the air: an anecdote worthy of credit, as the flowers in Sicily, during Spring, are, at the present day, abundant and fragrant beyond description. The surrounding sea teems with excel- lent fish ; in short, nature appears to have lavished all her treasures on this Island. As to its political history, Sicily, like the Kingdom of Naples, pro- perly so called, may be compared to a Brilliant of the first water, which has, fromtime immemorial, excited the cupidity of Princes ; and alternately fallen into the hands of those, for the moment, most powerful. Its original inha- bitants were, according to received opinion, a very gigantic race ; and skeletons of a most uncommon length have certainly been found in Sicilian tombs. These Abori- gines, called Cyclops, and Laestry- gones, are reported to have been Anthropophagi ; what became of them is unknown ; but, when the Sicani colonized in Sicily, the greater part of the Island was un- inhabited. They are supposed to have been Spaniards, who dwelt near the Sicanus, a small river in Spain ; and from these Settlers Sicily acquired the name of Sica- nia. They erected towns on the heights ; and each little Stale was governed by its own Chief. During 1 NowCastro-Giovanni. 3 These W alls were solid indigenous rocks, cut into the form of walls ; and ani ient Sicilian Toffiibs aie frequently found in rocks. 3 This Strait, called from the Siculi, Sicu-> the reign of these petty Princes Hercules is said to have landed on the Island , and embellished it with a Temple, not far distant from Argyra, the birth-place of Dio- dorus Siculus. The Cretans like- wise, led by Minos, invaded the Sicani, in pursuit of Dsedalus, who took refuge among them, after having justly offended the Monarch of Crete : but the Ruler of the Sicani, while promising to give up the culprit, and at the same time receiving Minos with dissembled friendship, treacher- ously put him to death. This event occurred thirty years pre- vious to the Trojan war, and, at a subsequent period, the Tomb of Minos was discovered by labour- ers, who were making the AValls of Agrigentum. 2 At length the Si- culi (a nation of Campania, driven from their possessions by the Opici) passed, on rafts, the Strait 5 which separates Magna Grsecia from Sicily, invaded the Island, and obtained a permanent footing on its shores. This occurred above a thousand years previous to the Christian era, and gave birth to perpetual warfare between the Si- cani and the Invaders; till at length both parties agreed to divide the Island between them : and attract- ed by the great renown for wisdom and virtue enjoyed by the sons of TEolus, King of the iEolides, they likewise agreed to invest these Princes with sovereign power over Siculi, as the Island seems, at that period, to have been called; and they had no cause to repent their determination. But when this Royal Race was extinct, the Si- lum Fretum, is fifteen miles long; hut, ?n some places, so narrow that the barking of dogs may he heard from shore to shore: the Strait is supposed to have been formed by an earthquake, which separated Sicily from the Cpotincnt.— Pws. iii. p. 8. en. xv.] SICILY. 477 cani and Siculi (become one peo- ple) chose their Sovereigns from among their own compatriots ; which measure unfortunately oc- casioned feuds and civil war, the cankerworms of national strength. These feuds, however, did not re vent the people of Siculi, or icania-Siciliae, as it was then de- nominated, from receiving with humanity the ill fated Trojans, who sought an asylum among them, after the destruction of Troy : but the Phoenicians and Greeks, aware of the diminished force of a country distracted by internal commotions, took advan- tage of this circumstance, by plant- ing Colonies there ; and at length the Carthaginians became masters of the whole Island, till dispos- sessed, by the Romans, during the Punic wars. Its most celebrated Cities, when it fell under the Ro- man yoke, were Syracusse, Mes- sana (anciently Zancle ), Leon- tium, Lilybseum, Agrigentum* Gela, Drepanum, and Eryx : and the inhabitants of these Cities were Bo prone to luxury, that Siculce mensce became proverbial. When the Greeks colonized here, they inspired the Sicilians with a pas- sion for the Muses. Stesichorus, a native of Himera in Sicily, who flourished above six hundred years before the Christian era, was a celebrated Poet; insomuch that Phalaris, Sovereign of Agrigen- tum, exhorted the citizens of Hi- mera (a town subsequently de- stroyed) to erect a temple to his memory ; and offered to provide them with money and workmen for this purpose ; at the same time advising that all their temples should become the depositories of the poems of Stesichorus. Sicily may be called the birth-place of I Pastoral Poetry, as Theocritus, in both senses of the word, the first of pastoral Poets, was born at Sy- racuse. Epicharmus, a native of the same town, introduced Co- medy there, about four hundred years previous to the Christian era, and, according to some opi- nions, was the Inventor of this species of composition. Sicily like- wise gave birth to Tragic Poets ; among whom were Empedocles, grandson to the philosopher, and Dionysius II, Sovereign of Syra- cuse. She was also famed for the eloquent oratory of her sons : and produced, among several renown- ed philosophers, the illustrious Empedocles ; whose works were so enlightened, that Lucretius seems to question whether their author Was a mortal ; and whose virtues were so eminent, that his compa- triots repeatedly offered him the sceptre of their country, which he as repeatedly refused. Tradition says, this unambitious man pre- cipitated himself into the crater of /Etna; thinking that his sudden disappearance might induce a be- lief of his having been received among the gods : more probably, however, he accidentally fell into the crater, while prosecuting his philosophical researches : his san- dals, being made of bronze, were disgorged by the Mountain, and thus proclaimed the manner of his death. Diodorus, as already men- tioned, was a Sicilian : he compos- ed a Universal History, in forty parts; travelled through most of the countries which he describes, and was thirty years in writing his Work. Ancient authors, fearful of being erroneous, never wrote in haste — they respected the public. Archimedes, too, was a Sicilian, born at Syracuse ; and when the Roman Consul, Marcellus, besieg- ed that city, Archimedes, in con- 478 SICILY. Ich. xv. sequence of his wonderful know- ledge of geometry, defended it for three years, by constructing ma- chines which suddenly lifted into the air the Roman vessels stationed in the Bay, and then precipitated them with such violence into the water, that they immediately sank. He likewise set one of the Roman fleets on fire with burning glasses. Marcellus, however, at length succeeded in taking the City ; at the same time issuing strict orders to his soldiers to re- spect the Life of Archimedes ; and even offering a reward to any one who would bring the Philosopher unhurt into his presence. But these precautions proved useless. The Philosopher, absorbed in solving a problem, and ignorant that the Be- siegers were possessed of the City, was slaughtered by a Roman, for having refused to f ollow him. Mar- cellus raised a monument over the remains of Archimedes; placing upon it a cylinder and a sphere : and Cicero, during his Questor- ship in Sicily, discovered this Mo- nument overgrown with brambles, near one of the gates of Syracuse. But although the Romans encoun- tered great difficulties in subjugat- ing the Sicilians, they fell, com- paratively speaking, an easy prey to the Saracens. That brave, but cruel, and fanatic People, made a descent upon the Island in 669; surprised and plundered Syracuse, and then re-embarked for their own territories. In 827, they were recalled by a vindictive and power- ful Sicilian Nobleman, to revenge his private quarrel ; and aided by this villain, they enslaved his coun- try. Messina defended itself with great valour against the Invaders ; 1 In 1282, the memorable Sicilian Vespers placed Peter of Arragon on the Ihrone of Sicily : from him its crown devolved on Fer- but was compelled to capitulate. All the cities which endeavoured to maintain at the moment, or afterwards recover their freedom, suffered dreadfully ; and Syracuse, which was among the latter, hav- ing been long besieged, and re- duced to extremities the most repugnant to human nature, was taken by assault, sacked, and burnt — -even ils walls were razed. Sicily languished under the Sara- cenic yoke above four centuries : but, at length, Roger, surnamed Guiscard, a Norman by birth, de- livered the Island from the domi- nion of the Infidels ; re-established its Churches ; and became the first of its Norman Rulers, under the title of Conte Ruggiero. His family reigned in succession ; sub- sequent to which period the Sici- lian sceptre has been swayed by divers potentates of Europe ; and several of the present customs of the Island are derived from its Spanish Sovereigns. 1 The Arts of Painting and Sculp- ture were highly cultivated in early ages, by the inhabitants of Sicily : and Greco- Siculi Vases furnish some of the most splendid specimens of pottery existing. The principal Ports in this Island are those of Messina, Syra- cuse (called, in Italian, Siragusa), and Trapani ; each being situated near one of the great Promonto- ries ; and those of Palermo and Catania, situated between the others. There are likewise several small landing-places; and to avoid being surprised by Corsairs, the Sicilians have encircled them- selves with Martello Towers. The most eligible months for visiting Sicily are those of March, dinand of Castile, and remained annexed to that of Spain, till, by the treaty of Utrecht, it was given to Sardinia. Ctt. XV.] SICILY— PALERMO. 479 April, May, and June, as the flowers which enamel the Island i are then in high beauty ; the sun is not sufficiently fervent to be dangerous, (if Travellers guard their heads properly against it) ; • neither is there at this season, much Mat Aria. During Spring, Summer, and Autumn, a Steam Packet usually goes from Naples to Palermo (a hundred and eighty- four miles), in about twenty-four hours. 1 2 The approach to the I latter Town presents fine scenery. The bolides form a beautiful group on the left, near Sicily, while Ustica appears far off on the right, andAStna is likewise seen at a dis- tance. The mountains which back Palermo, the deep blue sea, from whose bosom rise the most pictu- resque rocks imaginable, the Gape : of Zafarano, and the Monte-Pelle- ; grino, all contribute to render the I entrance to the capacious Harbour I of this Metropolis delightful. The best Hotel here is The Prince of /Fia7e.s, keptbyMr. and Mrs. Page : | the latter is an Englishwoman. The gaietv and Asiatic appear- I ance of Palermo are peculiarly striking ; an effect produced, in part, by numerous palm-trees, and [ a species of weeping cedar, which flourishes here. Palermo, how- ever, displays other features of an | Asiatic Town ; some of its build- ings are Saracenic ; and the Chal- ! dee Inscription, already mention- 1 One of these Vessels, ( The Real Ferdi- i nando) managed by Englishmen, went from [ Naples to Palermo and Messina, and vice I versa , about once a fortnight during the Sum- mer and Autumn of 1826 ; the price for each J Chief Cabin Passenger, being twenty ducats, I from Naples to Palermo, bed and board in- ■ elusive; tne price for each second class Pas- h senger, bed, but not board, inclusive, nine li ducats ; and the price for each third class I Passenger three ducats, without either bed or H board. 2 Two large and profound inlets of the sea N anciently formed the Harbour of Palermo ; ed, as having been found wilhin its walls, gives strength to the opi- nion of several learned Sicilians, who suppose it was originally built by Emigrants from Chaldsea and Damascus, transported hither by the Phoenicians ; and aided in their Work by that wealthy mercantile People, a nd some Israelite Adven- turers. This Town, anciently calledPa/i- «rmus,* and once the strongest hold of the Carthaginians in Si- cily, 3 is supposed to possess, at present, about a hundred and sixty thousand inhabitants; and stands at the base of a natural amphitheatre, formed by lofty and barren hills, between which and the Town lies an uncommonly lux- uriant and beautiful valley. Pa- lermo (one of the most regularly built Cities in Europe), has a splendid Quay , 4 called the Marina , and furnished with Marble Seats, and a small Theatre ; where, dur- ing summer, a select Band of Mu- sicians execute music, generally of their own composing, to amuse the Palermitan Nobility, who drive daily, and even twice a day , to the Marina, for the benefit of sea- breezes : and here may usually be seen idle Palermitans, of the lower rank, assembled round a Story- teller, whose histories, though not equal, perhaps, in merit, to“ The Arabian Tale^,” excite the interest of his auditors. 5 This exhibition and, according to Diodorus Siculus, this City was called II ctv- 0 f>[A. 0 S (Panormus), bec'dusa the word signifies, in Greek, a deep Harbour. Palermo and ils environs were denominated by the Latins, Aurea Valle and Horlus bi- cilice . . 3 Amilcar defended himself on Ereta, now Monte-Pellegrino, near this City, for three years. 4 Foreigners, on arriving in the Harbour of Palermo, are welcomed by a boat filled with a Band of Music. 5 These Story-lell vs exhibit all the year round, at a given honor, in Palermo, delivering 480 SICILY— PALERMO. fat. xv; eems to be derived from the Asia- tics : for “ The Arabian Tales,” translated into English, owe their existence to a description of Story- tellers who have, from earliest times, belonged to the suite of Asiatic Princes, for the purpose of entertaining them with fabulous histories. The Upper Marina Terrace , and Public Gardens ad- joining the Marina, are likewise favourite promenades. In these Gardens are walks shaded by tjrange and lemon-trees ; fountains which nourish aquatic plants; and Canary-birds living and singing in capacious aviaries, with one side open to the air. The Botanic Gar- den merits notice, as it has in some degree recovered from the inju- ries it sustained during the last civil commotions. The two prin- cipal Streets of Palermo, one of which, called the Toledo , is a fa- vourite Drive, intersect each other at right angles ; and lead into a handsome octangular Piazza, cal- led Quattro Cantoni, from the centre of which both parts of each Street, and the four principal Gates of the City, are seen. These Gates, about half a mile distant from each other, display good ar- chitecture. The Streets are noisy and crowded, like those of Naples. The Shops (open in front, and al- most innumerable) 1 usually con- stitute the ground-floor of private houses and likewise of Religious Establishments for Females, who are placed in the attic stories ; and the long grated projecting Galle- ries belonging to each of these Monasteries, form a striking fea- exposilions of Ariosto, Tasso, etc., alternately exciting the laughter and the tears of their hearers; and receiving, as a recompense from each of them, a grain or two. 1 The signs over these Shops are carved and painted in imitation of life ; and the Bar- ber’s Shop proclaims the Doctor. ture of the Toledo. Every win- dow in this Street has its Balcony, supported with wooden props ; by no means consistent with splendid architecture ; but, nevertheless, the Toledo is handsome; owing chiefly to its being quite straight, and a mile in length. The Piazza in which the Duomo stands is like- wise handsome; and this Church, a spacious Italian Gothic Struc- ture, exhibiting Saracenic orna- ments, and dedicated to Saint Ro- salia, the Patroness of Palermo, contains the Tomb of the Saint ; whose relics are preserved in sil- ver, studded with diamonds. 3 The Duomo was built in 1185 ; its ex- terior has been restored at one end , and displays inlaid figures, and black and white ornaments. The Capitals of the Columns of the Portal are thickly fretted leaf- work, in the Saracenic style. The interior of the Church is orna- mented by eighty Columns of oriental granite, with Capitals shaped like a turban. The Bishop’s Throne, and Canons’ Stalls, are embellished with Gothic work well carved in wood ; the High-altar is . rich in marbles ; and the Ciborio is fifteen feet in height, and com- posed entirely of lapis lazuli. A side-chapel contains four porphyry Sarcophagi, which enclose the re- mains of the Norman Conte Rug- giero, his Consort, and other Royal Persons. The porphyry is red, and very fine ; and the Tombs stand under two gilt Mosaic Canopies, each supported by six columns. 3 The Cliiesa del Angelo Custode merits notice ; and the Cliiesa di 2 This Tomb is near the Choir; and not exhibited to public view, except when the Fete of the Saint is celebrated. 3 Modern whitewash, the bane of architec- tural beauty, has destroyed the grandeur of the interior of the Duomo. SICILY — PALERMO. 48 i S. Simone , likewise called La Mar * torana, is an interesting specimen of the combination of Greek, Ara- bic, and Norman architecture.. This Church (rich in marbles) con- tains, on one side of its splendid High-altar, a solid verde antique Table. The Nuns 1 Gratings, near the Altar, are silver. The spacious Chiesa di S. Giuseppe is remark- able for its immense marble Co- lumns, supposed to be antique. The Chiesa dell Olive Lla abounds with cosily decorations, and con- tains a Picture of S. Ignatius, at- tributed to Caravaggio ; though more probably the work of Filippo Paladiho. 1 Sa . Tita exhibits a fine Picture of the Deposition from the Cross, attributed to Vincenzo Ane- mole ; it is an imitation of Ra- phael’s celebrated Painting on this subject. The Picture of the Mag- dalene was done by Monrealese. 2 The Palazzo Reale, in the twelfth century a Fortress, and the Re- s idence of Ruggiero when Monarch of Sicily, has, since that period, been considerably enlarged and improved. The Court of this Edi- fice is furnished with three tiers of Corridors, some of them double; and by their connexion with stair- cases, they present a singular view of arches and columns ; appro- priate, however, to a warm cli- mate. The Chapel Royal (on the second floor) was begun by Rug- giero, in 1129, and finished thir- teen years after. It is a chaste Building of the Greco -Mraba- Normanna School. The Royal i Apartments are embellished with ; excellent Tapestry, representing 1 In a Side-chapel is a Holy Family, a'- II tributed to Raphael. 2 Pietro No, r elli, surnamed Monrealese, and I bom at Monyealc, in 1608, studied at Rome, I and was a paialer of distinguished merit. 3 The entrance lo the Senate House dis- the Exploits of Don Quixote : and the view from the Terraces is en- chanting, The Bronze Rams , transported by Charles III, from Syracuse to Palermo, merit no- tice : they are about five feet long, three feet high, in a recumbent posture, and very beautiful. 3 The Palazzo Butera consists of magni- ficent, splendidly furnished, and comfortable Apartments, with a delightful Promenade three hun- dred feet in length, and an awning for Summer, situated above the second Marina. The Torre della Cuba , in a Garden, near Palermo, is a curious Saracenic rectangular Edifice, with two doorways having pointed Arches : its Roof is a semi- circular Dome ; and its upper edg- ings exhibit Arabic Characters : if the blind Windows were ever open (which, according to appearance, they were not), this edifice must have been peculiarly light and elegant; at all events, however, the architect who erected it was well aware of the beautiful effect pro- duced by light and lofty arches. On the outside of the Porta-nuova, but near the City, is the Torre della Ziza , another Saracenic Structure, which, though injured by earthquakes, still retains a Fountain, a Portico, Columns, and Mosaics, belonging to the original Edifice. The Villa Butera , called Villa-TVilding , abounds with luxu- ries. Here are Public Gardens laid out in the English manner ; and, amidst a great variety of exotics, flowering in the open air, are most of those plants which require hot- houses in England. Here, like- plays several Latiu Inscriptions of the time v\ hen Sicily was governed by the Romans : and in the CorUle di Sped ale, once magnificent, but now a neglected building, is Ihe Fragment of a very animated Fresco, by Monrealese; and an old Picture of Death' cu the' Pole Horse. 482 SICILY —PALERMO. wise, collected from various coun- tries, is a Menagerie of Birds, and among them the Egyptian Ibis. The Royal Chinese Villa called La Favorita is embellished with pretty Drives, about four miles in extent. 1 * The Road from Palermo to Monreale, a distance of near four miles, is excellent. This archiepiscopal Town, originally a Saracenic Hamlet, was enlarged by William II, surnamed “ The Good,” who, in 1177, erected its Cathedral ; which Edifice, not long ago, suffered considerably from fire ; and is now repairing at a very large expense, that it may correspond with the rest of the Structure : which displays costly Gates of bronze ; ancient Columns of granite with elegant Capitals ; Columns of porphyry ; a beautiful Pedestal, belonging to a bronze Statue of S. John the Baptist, and the TombofWilliamL (the Pedes* tal and that Tomb are porphyry) ; the Tomb of William II; and, in the Choir, superb Mosaics. On the Staircase of the annex- ed Monastero dei Canonici Bene - dettini is a celebrated Painting, by Monrealese ; which represents William the Good blessed by S. Benedict. Monreale stands on an elevated spot, commanding a love- ly view : and higher still, on the right, is another Benedictine Con- vent, the Monastero di S. Mar- tino , supereminent in beauty of situation, riches, and splendour, appropriated to Noblemen only, and more like a royal residence than a religious retirement. 3 In 1 This Villa cannot be seen without an order. One room below stairs, near the Bath, contains English Prints— on the first floor is a circular Dinner-Table, so arranged that the dishes are raised from below — on the same floor, in the large room, is a Table of Petrified Wood, said to have been brought from Pom- peii; the outside edges resemble agate; and in the adjoining bed-room are two more the superb Hall of entrance is a picture of S. Martino on Horse- back, giving his mantle to an in- digent man. The Rails of the Staircase are alabaster and Sicilian marble ; the Corridors are spa- cious ; and the Refectory contains a fine Fresco by Monrealese, for which he received two hundred and ten ducats. This Convent likewise possesses other good Paintings, namely, the Annuncia- tion by Monrealese ; the Daughter of Herodias, attributed to Guer- cino ; a Holy Family, by Titian ; and S. John preaching in the De- sert, by Paladino. The Church is handsome, its Organ celebrated ; and no thing can exceed the splen- dour of the Sacerdotal Yestmenls in the Sacristy. The Library con- tains a Chinese Manuscript Dic- tionary ; some beautiful Manu- script Bibles ; and a Copy of Lu- ther’s Works, with Notes, and Revisions, said to be his own. The Museum, though not large, is va- luable ; and comprises a Collection of ancient Sicilian Yases and Me- dals ; a beautiful ancient Glass Cup ; a Head of Friendship, sup- posed to be Grecian sculpture, and bearing a Greek Inscription ; toge- ther with a great variety of Sici- lian Marbles, Jasper and Agates. 3 There is a Carriage-road, in extent about eight miles, hilly and not .-good, the whole way from Pa- lermo to this Convent. Returning hence, Travellers may usually ob- tain permission to go through the Docca di Faleo, a Royal Drive. The Convent of the Coppuccini , Tables of Petrified Wood. The floor over the dining-room contains bed-rooms— still higher are the Slate Apartments ; and above them is a Prospect-room, which exhibits magnifi- cent views. 2 On the way to the Monastero di S. Mar- tino is a Castle/built by the Normans. 3 Ladies are not allowed to eater this Conveat. SICILY— PALERMO. 483 j about one mile distant from Pa- lermo, attracts the notice of Tra- vellers, because the defunct Bre- thren are dried, dressed, and placed upright in niches, belong- ing to the Catacombs under the conventual Church, that their Friends may visit and pray by them, annually, on the second of November. On the floor are wooden coffins enclosing the re- mainsof persons who were not in Holy Orders. 1 These Catacombs contain Vaults, secured by iron doors, where the bodies of deceas- ed Monks are deposited for half a year : at the end of which period they join the assembly of Mum- mies. Mon te-Pellegrin o is famed for having been the Retreat of the amiable Niece of William the Good, Saint Rosalia, who, in the prime of youth and beauty, with- drew from the world, and devoted herself to religious observances. It t rises perpendicularly at the dis- tance of one mile and a half from i Palermo, to the height of nineteen hundred and sixty-three feet above the level of the sea ; and Travellers i usually ascend this Mountain on donkeys by a path called La Sea- la* to the Church of Saint Rosa- lia; in which Priests celebrate Mass daily, and receive the offer- ings made by Pilgrims. This I Church leads to a Chapel , con- structed in a Grotto covered with i Stalactites; and where, according ( to tradition, the Saint secluded f herself, and ended her days. Her Statue, well executed in white i marble, lies under the Altar of the Chapel ; and represents a young and lovely person praying fervently: a Book, a Skull, and a Crucifix are placed at her side : but the Statue loses its effect, by 1 These bodies are dried and preserved, lik* those of the Monks. being covered with a robe of solid gold enriched by precious stones. The Grotto is capacious and som- bre. Beyond this spot stands a pretty Building, the roof of which is ornamented with a Statue of Saint Ptosalia : and here parties frequently come from Palermo to dine, and enjoy the view ; which comprehends Ustica (twenty leagues distant), Alicudi, andFe- licudi (the most Western of the jEolides), together with the Val- ley of La Favorita, profusely rich, and highly cultivated. A Festival in honour of Saint R.osalia is held annually, by the Palermitans, in the month of July, and continues several days ; during which period Palermo is splendidly illuminated every night, and a splendid dis- play of F ireworks exhibited. This Festival commences with a pom- pous general procession of the Dignitaries of the Church, and other Clergy, the State Officers, the Military, and other Inhabi- tants, who conduct through the streets a Triumphal Car, preceded by trumpets and kettle-drums. A Platform, about three-quarters the height of the Machine, con- tains a numerous band of Musi- cians, who, at intervals, execute, in honour of the Saint, vocal and instrumental music. The length of the Machine is seventy feet, the breadth thirty, and the height above eighty : it terminates in a Dome, resting on six Corinthiau Columns, ornamented with Fi- gures of Saints and Angels : and, elevated on the summit of this Dome, stands a Semi-colossal silver Statue of Saint Rosalia. Orange-plants, Vases filled with Flowers, and artificial Trees of Coral, garnish the Machine. But 2 There is, however, a Carriage- road to the foot cf Moute-Pellegriuo. m SICILY — PALERMO. fca.xv. the most splendid part of the Fes- tival is the Illumination with Wfhich it concludes ; and which takes place in the Duomo : where twenty-thousand wax lights, mul- tiplied by mirrors innumerable, are tastefully disposed in upward of five hundred lustres. Placed on an eminence, near the other end of the Concha d'oro , as Pa- lermo is poetically called, stands the Monastero di Santa Maria di Gesii , which should be visited by Travellers, because it commands a particularly fine view of Paler- mo. 1 2 The Rocks close to the Con- vent are very beautiful ; and in this vicinity are Ruins of an Aque- duct. A Carriage-road leads to the Convent. 3 A Carriage-road likewise leads to a Village about ten miles distant from Palermo, and called La Bagaria; where a Sicilian Nobleman, Prince Pala- gonia, built a whimsical Palazzo ; and squandered a large property in having all the most hideous combinations of beings, real or imaginary, represented by the best sculptors he could engage to work for him : and a few scattered Monsters, on the approach to the Palazzo, together with one semi- circular Court still remaining, show how successfully he gratified bis eccentric taste. The interior of the Mansion contains one Room (now going fast to decay), with a Looking-glass, Ceiling, and Walls inlaid with Porcelain and Coloured * Glass ; the effect of which, when 1 Ladies are not admitted into this Con- vent. 2 Near the path which leads to the Con- vent is an ancient square Sepulchral Chamber, delved in a rock, and containing a Well at one end. 3 In this vicinity, on an eminence, now called Monte-Catalfano, stood the ancient Solus. 4 Among these Bassi-rilievi is the head of Medusa, represented as being covered with lighted up, must have been splen- J did: and another Room with a i Looking-glass Ceiling, a beautiful 1 Floor, and Walls completely co- ( vered by Marble, and Paintings to J imitate marble, so well executed, i and skilfully overspread with Glass, that it is difficult to detect the deception. This Room con- tains China, an elegant Table, and other costly furniture, in good condition, Prince Butera has a Villa at La Bagaria, remarkable only for a small Casino in its Gar- den, representing a Convent, and containing the Story of Adelaide and Comegio, superbly executed in Waxwork. 3 The fine Bassi- rilievi , brought from Selinuntium to Palermo , should be enquired for by Travellers, as Antiquities which particularly merit notice. 4 The Opera at Palermo is, gene- rally speaking, good ; but the Theatre canuot vie with that of S. Carlo at Naples. 5 The Palermitans are lively, acute, intelligent, and particularly civil and obliging to British Tra- vellers. Music and poetry appear to be the favourite studies of the upper rank of persons ; and seve- ral Palermitans are versed in the Arabic and ancient Greek lan- guages. Travellers who wish to make the Tour of the Island, usually set out on the Carriage-road, which extends some way ; ordering their Mules, or Lettigo (a litter), to be in waiting at its termination. hair, instead of serpents: it seems, therefore, that the latter was, comparatively speaking, a modern invention. ‘ 5 Gloves and stockings fabricated with the beard of the Pinna Marina, which is found in large quantities at Tarento, may frequently be purchased at Palermo; and are well cal?- culated for Travellers who mean to ascend to the summit of #ltna ; being so peculiarly warm that medical men recommend them, a.3 a cure for rheumatic yams in the limbs. SICILY — JEGESTA . 485 TheCarriage-road passes through Monreale to Alcamo , thirty-one miles distant from Palermo, and furnished, at the present moment (1827), with an Hotel kept by an Abate; which, though small, pos- sesses the comfort of cleanliness. The olive-trees, seen from this road, are remarkably large ; the country between Monreale and Alcamo is beautiful; and the But- terflies here, and in all parts of Sicily, are superb. The Town of Alcamo abounds with Churches and Pieligious Establishments ; and the neighbouring Mountain pro- duces superb yellow Marble. 1 After sleeping at Afcamo, Tra- vellers usually proceed, through a dreary country, to the ancient iEgesta, and thence to Trapani , a distance of thirty miles. The Temple of TEgesta, and the Site of the Town, are nine miles from Alcamo. y Egesta, or, as it was likewise called, Segesta , founded by JEges- tus, a Siculian, soon after the l Trojan war, owed its destruction i to the Potter’s son, Agalhocles, who subj ugated the whole island : 2 and about a hundred paces from the Site of this Town, marked by i a few scattered masses of ruins covered with herbs, is an object of peculiar interest, an ancient qua- drilateral Grecian Doric Edifice, 1 Several Travellers have taken the Abate, j who keeps the Hotel at Alcamo, as their Guide ( to the Sulphureous Hot Springs, and Ruins of i Aigesta. 2 Scipio Africanus the younger, at the I close of the third Punic War, is said to have 1 restored to the inhabitants of the district of j Segesta a famous bronze Statue of Diana, ■ which the Carthaginians had purloined; and I which Cicero saw, during his Sicilian Qus?slor- ■ ship. 3 Judging from the description given by 8 Vitruvius of Greek Temples, and also from ■ there being no remains of a Celia, this Edifice I’ was more probably a Basilica, than a Temple, R though its elevated position bespeaks it the t latter kintl of building; beegyse the ancient simple, grand, and almost entire, standing solitary, on an isolated circular hill, in a bold but desolate country. Gigantic Steps, three in number, lead up to the Platform on which rests this Temple (as an- tiquaries suppose it to have been), and each of the three first Steps is one foot and a half in width. The Edifice has two Fronts, both ter- minated by a Pediment. Six Co- lumns, without bases, and placed a few inches within the verge of the Platform, adorn each Front ; each side presents twelve Co- lumns, making thirty-six in all. The exterior of the Temple seems to have bidden defiance to time, one Column excepted ; which, being damaged, was restored (though unskilfully) in 1781 . The length of the Temple is a hundred and eighty-two Paris feet, taken from the centre of the angular Columns ; and the breadth sixty- eight feet. The Columns, com- posed of stone, smooth, but neither stuccoed nor fluted, are about six feet in diameter, and thirty feet high ; the intercolumniations be- ing unequal ; the Capitals measure three feet four inches in height. The construction of the Fabric 13 such, that, supposing it to have been a Temple, the high-altar must have fronted the east ; but no vestiges remain of a Celia* 3 When Greeks, (as already mentioned), impressed with an idea that when the deities of Olympus visited their earthly temples they might find it more convenient to alight on an eminence than in a plain, always placed these sacred structures in as lofty a situation as possible. The dimensions of the Edifice in question, in Paris feet, are taken from Ferrara’s account of the Antiquities of Sicily : its dimensions, in English feet, are computed to be as follows. Exterior length, two hundred feel — breadth, eighty-eight feet four inches — diameter of the columns, six feet eight inches— intercolumui- ations, about the same. This Edifice, supposed to be iHore modern than the other Grecian Doric Temples of Sicily, is lesg e&celleflt V ith respect to architecture. 486 SICILY— -TRAPANI — MAR SAL A . [cn. xv. this Edifice was built is unknown ; and to which of the heathen divi- nities it was consecrated, seems uncertain. It in some measure resembles the Temple of Neptune at Peeslum ; and has much the ad- vantage of that Temple, in point of situation; but in nothing else. On the side of a neighbouring Eminence ar e Ruins of a Theatre , the external Wall of which is com- posed of large masses of stone ; and rests against the approximate Rock. The form of the Theatre may be completely traced; but no vestiges remain of its Scena ; and its Seats are nearly destroyed. It stands under the ruins of an an- cient Castle , which commands a fine view of Mons-Eryx , where the presumptuous Challenger of Hercules was buried. 1 2 Two miles distant from the ancient iEgesta are Sulphureous Hot Springs , called Acque Segestane; which, according to Diodorus, gushed from the earth by order of the Wood Nymphs, to refresh Her- cules after the fatigues of his voy- age to Sicani. On the road to Trapani, about one mile distant from that Town, is a Church with a Norman door, and containing the famous Madonna of Trapani, covered with splendid jewels. This Town, in shape like a Scythe (whence its original name, Dre - panum)* stands on an isthmus, near the side of Moun t Eryx ; pos- sesses a safe Harbour (mentioned by Virgil), and is famed for hav- ing been the place where Anchises 1 Eryx, relying on his great personal strength, challenged all Strangers to contend ■with him in the combat of the ceslus. Her- cules accepted the challenge, and Eryx fell. Eryx erected aTemple to Venus on this Moun- tain, which bears his name ; and where, we are told, was the tomb of Anchises. 2 faulx. 3 Travellers, who do hot ascend Mount died, and where iEneas celebrated funeral games in his father’s ho- nour. From the Port may be seen the Rock described by Virgil, iEn. III. V. Trapani is strongly for- tified, and enriched by Coral and Thunny Fisheries. Ivory, Coral, Conchs, and Alabaster, are manu- factured in the town ; but the In - cisori here cannot vie with those at Rome. The Hotel at Trapani is a bad one. In this Town the Carriage-road terminates. After sleeping at Trapani, Travellers frequently make an excursion to the summit of Eryx , the highest ] Mountain of Sicily, iEtna except- ed. The aJkent is easy, though tedious, and exhibits beautiful scenery. Fragments of granite Columns and a Fountain , are called the remains of the celebrat- ed Temple of Venus, which once i ] embellished this spot : but of the i ] Tomb of Anchises there are no i vestiges. Travellers who ascend , Eryx, usually finish their day’s j ; journey at Marsala , eighteen j miles from Trapani; 3 the mule- ' track, between which Towns, j lies within view of the sea. 4 Mar- ( sala was erected by the Saracens, < on the Promontory of Lilybseum, c and on the site of an ancient City, a likewise called Lilybceum, and a s peculiarly strong place ; which, T during the wars between the Ro- ] mans and Carthaginians, stood a , ten years’ siege. Diodorus gives it < the appellation of “ impregnable r its Harbour, which the Romans ; ], vainly endeavoured to destroy, is j e d Eryx, usually proceed from Trapani, through j r Marsala and Mazzara, lo Castel-Vetiano ; a distance of thirty-eight miles. •! IP 4 This mule-track, though not good, is interesting ; because it displays a view of thres Islands, called At'ce, by Virgil ; on one of which Ulysses is supposed to have been ship- i « wrecked; and upon these Rocks art of one Wall is removed : di- apidatlons supposed to have taken place during the middle ages , when this Temple was dedicated to S. Gregorio, and used for Christian worship. The Wall of the Celia contains Winding Steps, which lead to the upper part of the Edi- fice . 3 In this vicinity are remains of a Temple , supposed to be that consecrated to Hercules ; and which Cicero describes as being near the Forum, now totally de- brated Picture of an earthly Venus, by Zeuxis. 3 By ascending these Steps a sight may be obtained of large holes, apparently cut to re- ceive beams for supporting a roof. SICILY— AGRIGENTUM. m stroyed. 1 2 This Temple rested on a Platform encompassed by four Steps, and corresponded in dimen- sions with the two last named Edi- fices : it is now a confused pile of ruins, with only oneColumn stand- ing. Its columns were channelled. To the west of the Temple of Her- cules are sufficient remains of one of the ancient City-Gates , to prove that it was Doric architec- ture : and hot far hence is supposed to have been the ancient Port. On the outside of this Gate is a well-preserved Sepulchral Monu- ment ; simple and unpretending ; ornamented with Ionic Columns and Triglyphs above them ; but, I in shape, Egyptian. It is called the Tomb ofTheron , an excellent Prince who reigned sixteen years over the Agrigentines, and died B.C. 472, universally beloved and lamented. 3 The architecture of the Tomb in question appears, however, of a morq^recent date ; and some antiquaries are of opi- nion that it was the Grave and Monument of a Horse. Its Cor- nice is destroyed. Beyond this Tomb, and near the sea, is a mo- dern Edifice , one Wall of which, fabricated with large square stones, seems to have originally made part of the Temple of JEs- culapius , which had Grecian Doric Columns, fluted, without base, and their diameter was half buried in the W alls of the Temple. These Walls, or, more properly speaking, that which remains, ex- hibits an internal Winding Flight of Steps, similar to the one already described in the Cella-Wall of the Temple of Concord. 3 Travellers on returning from the Temple of TEsculapius, before they re-enter the ancient Gate, should notice the Sarcophagi formed in the Ci ty Walls ; huge masses of which lie prostrate, and seem to have slid down from their original position. On re-entering the Gate, it is usual to proceed northward, to the co- lossal Temple of Jupiter Olym- picus , called, by Diodorus, the largest sacred Edifice in Sicily ; and described as a striking proof of the magnificence of its found- ers; but, at the present moment, little more than an immense pile of ruins. It was, in length, about three hundred and sixty-eight En- glish feet ; in breadth about one hundred and eighty-eight ; and the diameter of its Columns was thirteen feet four inches : they were channelled ; and, according to Diodorus, each channel was sufficiently wide and deep for a man to stand in it. 4 The Edifice rested on a lofty Platform, en- compassed by several steps. 5 On the north and south sides were fourteen Columns; to the east seven ; and to the west only six. These Columns were semi-circular on the outer part, and squared within : the intercolumniations presented a Wall ; thus forming- 1 The Temple of Hercules once contained a celebrated picture of Alcmena, by Zeuxis. 2 Diodorus Siculus reports, that when the Carthaginians, under the command of Hanni- bal, the Son of Giscon, were destroying the Tombs on the outside of the Walls of Agri- gentum, a flash of lightning struck Theron’s Sepulchre, indicating that it was protected by Jove : and Diodorus adds, that a pestilence ensued in the Carthaginian camp; that Han- nibal and several other persons died of this pestilence, and that the destruction of the Tombs was consequently abandoned. 3 Cicero mentions a beautiful little Statue of Apollo (marked on the thigh, in small silver letters, with the name of Myron), as having graced the Temple of /Esculapius at Agri- gentuni; and adds, that the Carthaginians possessed themselves of this Statue; which was restored to its original owners by Scipio. 4 The channels were twenty -l wo inches and a half in width. 5 On ibe north side are remains of five. 494 SICILY — AGRIGENTUM. an exterior Temple to contain the Celia. This Temple, immense in height, and splendid beyond de- scription, had two Fronts, each adorned with a Pediment, con- taining in its Tympanum superb sculpture : that of the eastern Pe- diment represented the War of the Giants ; that toward the west, the Capture of Troy; and here, con- trary to usage, is supposed to have been the principal Entrance ; be- cause this Front had only six Co- lumns : but it does not seem likely that a religious custom should have been departed from, in the con- struction of a sacred Edifice. The Gates of the Temple were prodi- gious in magnitude, and transcend- ent in beauty. Each Triglyph be- longing to the exterior architectu- ral decorations, was ten feet high ; and the Celia had twenty-four Pi- lasters. A great number of sea- shells are observable in the stone which formed this Edifice ; and probably, to fill up the natural cavities of the stone, the whole building was encrusted with a Strong stucco. Amidst this stu- endous mass of ruins lies the tatue of an enormous Giant, mea- suring twenty-seven feet in length : the curls of his hair form a kind of garland; the legs are each in six pieces ; the joints of each leg cor- respond; the head is in one piece ;* and between the head and legs are four pieces, being alternately bi- sected ; so that, in the body, are t Some persons think it consists of two pieces. 2 It is mentioned, in .the first Chapter of this Work, speaking of Caryatides, that the Conquerors of Caria (once called Phoenicia, be- cause it was the abode of a Phoenician Colony), in order to commemorate their triumph over its inhabitants, erected public edifices, in which the figures of the female part of the subjugated people were used instead of co- lumns; and when male figures were used in the same manner, the appellation given to them was “ Perses.” six rows of pieces. This Statue is composed of the same soft stone as the Temple ; and was evidently stuccoed ; for on and about the eyes, stucco may still be seen. Fragments of two other gigantic Statues of the same description lie near their F ellow-Monster : and it is said that fragments of ten or twelve more of these Giants have been found not far distant from the three already mentioned ; and, like them, with elbows bent, and hands raised, in the attitude of supporting a weight above their heads : they are, therefore, sup- posed to have been Perses, 2 which formed a second row of Pillars, and rested upon the Capitals of immense Pilasters let into each Side-Wall of the interior part of the Temple. 3 Channels to receive ropes are visible in the largest stones belonging to this Edifice ; which, owing to perpetual wars with Carthage ‘ ultimately the de- struction of Agrigentum , appears to have been never finished. 4 The next Temple^ proceeding in rota- tion, is that of Castor ana Pollux , where part of one Wall may be traced ; two channelled Columns likewise remain ; and appear to have been covered with superb white stucco . W est ward , and be- yond the ancient Walls, are two fluted Columns and some other remains of an Edifice denominated the Temple of Vulcan , but with- out good authority; as every ves- 3 These Gigantic Figures were seen sup- porting parts of the Cornice, till the eleventh century. 4 See Diodorus Siculus, Lib. xiii. cap. 24. According to this Author, the Temple of Jupi- ter Olympicus, at Agrigentum, seems to have been about three hundred and forty feet long, by one hundred and sixty feet wide. Other Writers say, it was three hundred and forty- five feet long, by one hundred and sixty-five wide : hut neither of these measurements ap- pears quite correct. gb. xv ij SICILY— LICATA—TERRANOYA. 495 tige of that Temple, which once stood near Agrigen turn, is suppos- ed to be annihilated. The ancient Bridge thrown over the j! gragas , merits observation, though almost de stroyed ; its materials being used daily, in modern buildings. The Cloacce, cut through the rocks, and terminating in a Cloaca Max- ima, likewise deserve notice. 1 The stupendous Temples of Agrigentum, better worth seeing than any other antiquities Sicily contains, are eminently pictu- resque in point of situation ; and the Temple of Concord is pecu- liarly striking, because nearly perfect : but neither the tran- scendent beauty of this Edifice, nor the simple grandeur of that at iEgesta, are so imposing and ve- nerable as the Temple of Neptune at Paestum ; which, like the inte- rior of S. Peter’s at Rome, im- presses the human mind with awe, and fits it for the worship of its Creator. FYom Girgenti Travellers usu- ally proceed through Palma to Licata , a distance of twenty-eight miles. Palma is pleasantly situ- ated in a luxuriant valley : but be- tween this rich district and Licata, the ancient Phintia, lies a dreary plain. Phintia, situated near the mouth of the Himera, now the Salso, was built by Phintias, an Agrigentine Prince, who trans- ported thither the inhabitants of Gela, when he destroyed that town, about four centuries after its foundation ; and the Promon- tory stretching into the sea, on the right of the river, is the Ecnomos , mentioned by Polybius, Diodorus, and Plutarch ; where stood the Castle of Phalaris, which con- 1 A Banker, named Granet, who resides at Girgenti, and speaks English, is Yery k.ipd and U ? VfpJ to Travellers. tained the bronze Bull, his famous instrument for torturing his sub- jects. 2 Licata has risen on the ruins of Phintia ; and displays wider streets than are common in Sicily^. Persons fortunate enough to procure a letter of recommen- dation to Sig. Giuseppe Paraninfo, are most hospitably received, and comfortably lodged, by that Gen- tleman, who resides at Licata : but those who are under the necessity of going to the Hotel, are wretch- edly accommodated. Travellers frequently rest half a day at Li- cata; and then proceed to Terra~ nova , a distance of eighteen miles, in the afternoon. The road lies on the sea shore ; and the Hotel at Terranova is tolerably good : but persons acquainted with Mr. Wilding, Prince Butera’s brother, and a resident here, are enter- tained at his house most sump- tuously. This Town , built by the Emperor Frederick II, stands near the Site of the ancient Gela ; which received its name from the Gelas, a small neighbouring ri ver, and was founded by a Rhodian and Cretan Colony, above seven hundred years before the Chris- tian era ; and, according to Thu- cydides, forty -five years after Syracusse. About three hundred paces to the east of Terranova are Remains of large Edifices, which mark the Site of the ancient City. On Medals found here, is the word 14 Gelas;” the ancient name of the river which now flows near Terranova : and moreover, the Greek Inscription relative to Gela, and found at Licata, was pre- viously taken from among the Ruins near Terranova. After sleeping in the last named Town, 2 Amilcar carried this Bull to Carthage ; hut when that City was taken by Scipio, he restored the Bull to the Agrigeptines. 496 SICILY— LENTIM. fen. xv. Travellers usually proceed to Cal- tagirone, a distance of twenty-four miles. 1 The road passes through a corn country : the ascent to the Town is long and rapid ; the Hotel very tolerable. Caltagirone, fa- mous for a Manufactory of small Figures of terracotta , beautifully executed, and representing the lower class of people in coloured costumes, is a bu*y Town, and more extensive than Girgenti. After sleeping at Caltagirone, Travellers usually proceed to Pa- lagonia and Lentini; a journey of thirty miles. The commence- ment of the road is rough and steep; but presents a distant view ofiEtna, with Mineo 2 * finely placed on a commanding eminence. Mul- titudes of volcanic stones cover the Soil : and near Palagonia is a pass through which a torrent of Lava appears to have rolled. Palagonia Stands in a picturesque situation, on the side of a hill, near rocks of Lava finely broken*, and beyond this spot beds of Lava and heaps of Yolcanic stones present them- selves great part of the way to the Biviere di Lentini ; which Lake lies near the Town, and causes exhalations so peculiarly noxious, that they poison the surrounding country with Mai ariad The Town of Lentini is the ancient 1 Persona who wish to see the Museum and Excavations of the Barone Gabriele Judica, usually go from Terranova to Syracuse either bj Biscari , or Chiaramonte , Palazzola, (the Baron’s place of residence), and part of Hybla Minor: but this road is extremely had : and may, indeed, be called dangerous. Baron Judica receives Travellers with great kindness and hospitality : his Museum consists ot Vases and other antiquities, found in ap- proximate Tombs, and Excavations, made on the spot where a Town, belonging to the Phoenicians, who colonized in Sicily, appear to have been buried. Remains of Public Baths, on « u 1 " eat , re ’ ma y he seen in this Town; and the Tombs near it are square, or oblong cavities, delved in natural rocks. The Museum contains two curious Stone Foot-paths— an elegant bronze Lamp, shaped like a crab— Egyptian hJols-Yotive Qfferings-Moulds for Leontium; once inhabited by the Lsestrygones ; whence its fields were denominated Lcestrygonii Campi: its present appearance is that of a sickly poverty-stricken place ; and its wretched Hotel affords no mattresses clean enough to sleep upon. After spending the night here, Travellers usually pro- ceed to Syracuse , a distance of thirty miles. The first part of the road exhibits iEtna towering ma- jestically above every other ob- ject, and Carlenlini, built and fortified by Charles V. 4 The country is volcanic and beautiful ; and the road, on approaching Agosta, presents a view of the sea, passes along a pretty water-lane, and goes within sight of what ap- pears like a series of Craters united by a contiguous torrent. One of these Craters is very per- fect ; and its lava seems particu- larly ancient. The road crosses the torrent, which is ornamented with super b uleanders; and be- yond it are groves of orange- trees and pomegranates : but, further on, the face of the country changes, and presents a dreary, barren, and rocky waste. On the approach to Syracuse is the Trophy which was erected to Marcellus , opposite the Peninsula of Magnesi, formerly Tapso : and casting Masks, and small Statues— a large Phoenician Vase, on which five rows of African Animals are painted— several of the Greco- Siculi Vases — a splendid Collection of Medals, etc. etc., all of which Antiquities the Baron wishes to sell. Near Palazzola are Statues, about ten feel high, hewn in the natural rocks. 2 Anciently Minoa, or Heraclea (for it had both names), and built by Minos, when he came to Sicily in quest of Daedalus. 3 The Lake of Lentini contains myriads of Leeches, which might endanger the life of any person tempted to bathe in its pestiferous waters. 4 This Prince invited the Inhabitants of Lentini to remove to his new Town ; which is placed in a wholesome air : but they would not abandon the tombs of their ancestors. SICILY — SYRACUSE. 49 1 after passing this Trophy the mule- path ascends the Scala Grceca , goes through Acradina , and then unites itself -with an excellent newly made road, in a rich and well cultivated country ; where, fortified by drawbridges, stands the modern Siragusa, famous for its Hotel , 1 * which contains large airy apartments, and is, in every respect, comfortable. Sjracusce , likewise called, by the Ancients, Pentapolis , from comprising within its Walls five Cities, was founded above seven hundred years before the Christian era, by Archias of Corinth, one of the Heraclidae ; and in its most flourishing state comprised twelve hundred thousand inhabitants, extended above twenty-two Eng- lish miles in circumference, and maintained an army of a hundred thousand foot, and ten thousand horse, together with a navy con- sisting of five hundred armed ves- sels. It was divided into five Parts, namely, Ortygia , Acra- dina, Tycha, Neap oils, and Epi- polce ; and had three Citadels, treble Walls, and two capacious Harbours; the largest of which is computed to have been in breadth one mile and a quarter, in length two and a half, and in circum- ference six and a half. Its Edi- fices, public and private, were massive and stately ; and its citi- zens remarkable for being emi- nently virtuous, or as eminently wicked : and this was exemplified in two of its most celebrated Cha- racters, Archimedes, and the elder Dionysius. Syracusse was attacked by the Athenians, both by sea and land, B.C. 414, but the following year the Athenians were discom- 1 The Albergo del Sole, near the Duomo. 5 I There is another, hut very inferior Inn at i|£>yrac«$e, The ILeone d’oro. filed; and their Leaders, Nicias and Demosthenes, both killed. Dionysius the elder distinguished himself greatly in the wars waged by his countrymen against Car- thage ; but abusing the power with which they entrusted him, he became their Sovereign and their Tyrant. This great bad man died B. C. 368, after having pos- sessed the sceptre of Syracuse thirty-eight years ; and was suc- ceeded by Dionysius the younger, whose cruel conduct toward Plato and Dion (the son of Hipparinus) provoked the latter to raise an army and expel him. This event occurred B. C. 357 : ten years afterwards, however, he regained his sceptre ; but was finally ex- pelled by the Corinthians under Timoleon ; and became a school- master at Corinth (as Cicero ob- serves), “ that he might still con- tinue to play the tyrant, and, be- cause unable any longer to com- mand men, exercise his power over boys.” B. C. 212, the Syra- cusans who had been for three years closely besieged by Marcel- lus, at length relaxed in their military duties, during the noc- turnal festival of Diana : and the Romans, taking advantage of this circumstance, made a forcible entry at one of the Gates, captured the City, and placed it under the yoke ol Rome ; which was much enriched and embellished by the paintings and sculpture of Syra- cusse. 3 Little now remains of a Place once so populous and power- ful, but a few almost unintelligible ruins, scattered here and there, amoug vineyards, orchards, and fields of corn. The Island of Ortjgia lies southward. The 2 Marcellus, however, was too good to com- mit sacrilege ; and therefore respected the sta- tues ot' the gods, and left them in their temples. 498 SICILY— SYRACUSE. [cm. xt. ground rises toward the north ; and becomes, toward the west, a Ridge about three miles and a half in length ; at the extremity of which is Epipolce. Arcadina oc- cupied the shore from Ortygia to Trogilus ; Tycha occupied the re- mainder of the plain to Epipolse ; and Neapolis was between the Great Harbour and a Ridge to the west of Ortygia. Traces of eigh- teen Gates , belonging to the an- cient Walls, are discoverable. In the Island of Ortygia, now modern Syracuse, is the Fountain of the Nymph , Arethusa who, when changed, according to poetic li- cense, into this stream, received divine honours, as the Patroness of the ancient City : but (though celebrated by Poets, and said, by Strabo and Diodorus, to have been of such magnitude that it con- tained shoals of sacred fishes, in- credibly large), this Fountain is now reduced to aTank for washer- women : and presents nothing more than a rill of water flowing from an Aqueduct . 2 A Temple of the ancient Doric Order and originally consecrated to Minerva , likewise stands in the modern Town. This Edifice, which appears to have possessed the beautiful simplicity and grandeur common to ancient Doric temples, was cruelly injured about the seventh century, by being trans- formed into a Church ; and is now become the Cathedral of Syracuse : it suffered again in the twelfth century, when an earthquake shook down its roof. It was erect- ed on a raised quadrilateral Plat- form, and displayed forty Co- lumns fluted and without base; the shafts being about twenty- 1 Arethusa, one of the Sicelides, is fabled to have been transformed into a fountain by Diana. five English feet in height, and the capitals about three feet four inches. The Celia was enclosed by W alls composed of large stones, nicely joined together without ce* ment ; which walls have been cut through, to form communicating Arches with the side-aisles, when it became a Church. The Co- lumns, on the north side of the Edifice, are damaged and built into the north wall; where eleven of them may be traced ; those on the south side are better preserv- ed ; and at the west end two are still visible. In order to visi t the Rivers Anapus and Papyrus , (two branches of the same stream), and the district of Epipolce , it is requisite to provide a Boat for crossing the Portus Magnus , and ascending the Rivers. The mouth of the Anapus is little more than three boat-lengths in width, but 1 very deep; the false Papyri (for ‘ there are two kinds) grow on its ^ banks ; which, about midsummer, ( are covered with myriads of flies £ peculiar to this spot, and having ^ four dark coloured wings, and a ^ black body tipped with red under c the tail : and at the junction of the ® Anapus with the Papyrus, but no S( where else, is found a peculiar sort p of shell, called by the Syracusan tt boatmen Cozzola, the inside of (s which resembles mother of pearl. ll The Papyrus is so narrow that b a boat in ascending this River j U touches the reeds and canes on its banks, and is towed along. Near i the river stand two gigantic Doric J Columns , channelled to within a and few feet of the ground ; and these j ^ Columns, with som e fallen Frag - lb ments , are the only remains now J h® visible of a once magnificent Edi- |L| I i 2 Charles V. when he fortified Syracuse, L" totally altered the appear aoce of this Foun- SICILY— SYRACUSE. 499 flee consecrated to Olympic Jove ; whose Statue here was adorned by Hiero II. (a Syracusan Mo- narch famed for his virtues), with a mantle of gold wrought from the spoils of the Carthaginians : but Dionysius I. (prone to sacrilege) possessed himself of it, saying, “ The Son of Saturn had a gar- ment too heavy for summer, and too cold for winter ; and should, therefore, be provided with one made of woollen cloth, fit for both seasons.” The Praetor, Terre.*', the most rapacious of the Roman Governors of Sicily, 1 removed this statue to Rome : from which period the Temple went to decay. Near the ruins of this Edifice is an oblong Welly from twenty to t wenty-five feet deep ; and proba- bly an ancient Receptacle for purl- • lying water. Hence Travellers usually ascend the river to the Fonle Ciane , passing through fields of hemp. 2 Large quantities of the true and very fine Papyri grow near the Foote Ciane, which has a capacious and deep Basin, furnished with remarkably pellu- cid water, and abounding with fish. The adjacent country pre- sents a pestiferous marsh. At this place Travellers usually dismiss their boat; and mounting mules (sent hither expressly to wait for them) cross the Anapus on a bridge, and proceed to that por- tion of ancient Syracusse denomi- 1 See Cicero’s Orations. 2 It is asserted, by the Sicilians, that the farina of hemp in blossom causes MaV aria ; and that no person, who values health, should sleep near hemp fields in blossom. 3 So called, because supposed to have been the prison in which Dionysius confined the Poet Philoxenus, and certain Philosophers, for not having praised his poetical composi- tions. 4 Here, according to Diodorus Siculus, began a Wall, erected by Dionysius the Elder, in twenty days ; and extending, according to some opinions, seven miles. Six thousand masons w ere employed in this work , besides nated Neapolis. This ride presents a view of the ruined Walls of Trcha ; and after ascending a narrow track, the road leads to the site of the ancient Gate where Demosthenes made a forcible en- try ; it then crosses the Aqueduct , whose source is thirty miles dis- tant, and passes a small Nauma- chia ; hence crossing several an- cient Wheel-tracks to the Quarries of the Philosophers , 3 the ancient Walls on the left of which merit notice ; they are nine feet thick. Passing to the north side of Fort Labdalus, the road goes through a Gateway, between the north- east angle of the Fort and a line of Walls to the north ; and this is supposed to have been one en- trance to Epipolee . 4 Ruins of Fort Labdalus still remain ; and, to the west, is a deep Moat. The Walls of Neapolis and Tycha united at the south side of the Fort ; and Hybla Minor is a con- spicuous object from this spot. Near Fort Labdalus is an interest- ing and very extensive * Subterra- nean Passage , nine feet wide, cut through solid rocks, lofty enough to admit cavalry, and supposed to have been made for the convey- ance of troops and provisions from one quarter of the ancient city to another. 5 Returning hence, and following the course of the Aque- duct, Travellers are shown several openings into the Subterranean two hundred peasants, six thousand oxen, and a great number of persons w ho cut the stone in the quarries. One architect was assigned to every acre. Some of the stones which com- posed this Wall were eighteen feet long ; and part of it was very perfect till thrown down by Charles V, at the period when he dis- mantled Fort Labdalus, and fortified Ortvgia. The Gate by which Marcellus entered the JZpipolis may still be traced. 5 This Passage has been explored for some miles; and probably might have served, among other purposes, as a Sallyport from the strong Fortress of Labdalus. 2 S *** 500 Passage, and then conducted to the descent into the Theatre; leaving, on the right, the ancient Entrance to Tycha , winch is cut through a solid rock, and bordered on both sides with small tombs, and marks of Marble Slabs, re- ported to have borne Greek In- scriptions. Above the level of the Theatre the Aqueduct terminates in a Nymphceum 1 delved in a solid rock: but the water which produced this Fountain is all drawn away to supply Mills, one of which now stands amidst the Seats of the Theatre, at present used as foot-paths for the animals who carry corn to the Mill. The Theatre , hewn out of a rock, was called by Cicero “Maximum;” and Diodorus thought it the most beautiful edifice of the kind in Sicily : the view from its summit is even now delicious, and must have been astonishingly magnifi- cent when Syracusse shone in all its glory. Few vestiges remain of the Scena ; as the materials with [cii. xv. which it was composed were used by Charles V. in his fortifications. The shape of this immense Theatre exceeds a semi-circle by twenty- seven feet four inches, and resem- bles a horse-shoe : its diameter is one hundred and sixteen feet ; and it held forty thousand spectators . 1 2 Two Corridors remain ; as do seve- ral of the Seats : and those in the lowermost rows appear to have been cased with marble. The first Seat of the lowest division is singularly cut at the back ; and, perhaps, a piece of marble was inserted here, to form a magiste- rial chair. Under the Site of the sixth Seat, which no longer exists, is a Channel for Water . 3 The spectators enjoyed the accommo- dation of an Awning ; marks, where the poles which supported it were fixed, being still visible. Against the back of the upper Corridor are Greek Inscriptions (one to each Cuneus) ; what re- main appear to have been as fol- lows. SICILY- SYRACUSE. Second Cuneus, BA2IAI22A2 NHPHIA02 Third, BA2IAI22A2 $IAI2TIA02 Fourth, BA2IAE02 IEPDN02 Fifth, AI02 OAYMniOY AI 22 2PA2 3>PON Riedesel supposes that the inhabi- tants of Tycha (from their situa- tion) occupied the upper part of the Theatre; those of Acradina the middle; and those of Neapolis the lowest part ; as they inhabited the 1 Supposed to have resembled that at Athens, and to have been the Edifice, on which were inscribed the names of those per- sons who gained the prize for musical com- positions in the Theatre; and likewise the place where the Tripod of Apollo was de- posited, and consecrated. 2 This Edifice is wider than the Theatre at Athens, by eiglity-two Roman palmi ; and supposed to be the most ancient Grecian Theatre extant. It seems almost impossible that the actors could have been heard in so immense a Fabric, notwithstanding the aid plain. The district called Neapo- lis , in which this Theatre stands, was the last built, largest, and most magnificent part of ancient Syracuse ; 4 and adjoining to the Theatre are the celebrated Stone afforded them by masks which contained speaking trumpets, by sounding-plates of bronze, and by the still more powerful aid of the approximate rock. 3 There is, in this Theatre, a contrivance for preventing the feet of the person behind from interfering with the comfort of bis neigh- bour in front, by the stone, at the back of each row of seats, being a little Raised. The same thing may be seen in the Tragic Theatre, at Pompeii. 4 Neapolis did not exist till after the Pelo- ponnesian war. cii. xv.] SICILY — SYRACUSE. 501 Quarry , and Ear of Dionysius. The latter is fifty-eight English feet in height at the entrance, about seventeen feet wide, and two hundred and ten feet long : the sides slope gradually to the summit, and terminate in a small Channel, which conveyed every sound in the Cave to an aperture near the entrance. Thus the sounds in this Prison were all di- rected to one common Tympa- num ; which communicated with a small private Apartment, where Dionysius spent his leisure hours in listening to the discourse of his prisoners. The echo produced by tearing a piece of dry paper is distinctly heard throughout the Cave ; and that produced by firing a pistol is like the report of a can- non, and lasts ten seconds. In the Cave are remains of one Bath , just large enough to contain one person : an extraordinary circum- stance, for which antiquaries can- not account. The Entrance to the Ear of Dionysius is from the Quarry , supposed to have been likewise used as a State Prison, and so large that it has now be- come a Rope Walk. Near the en- trance to this picturesque Quarry are Marks where monumental tablets were inserted. The Am- phitheatre is contiguous : it had four Entrances, and was partly masonry, and partly hewn out of solid rocks. Under the south Entrance is an Aqueduct. The semi-diameters of this Edifice are one hundred and thirty-four by eighty-three English feet; and the Wall of the Podium is about eight feet six inches in height. 1 Near the Amphitheatre are Catacombs , 1 The Amphitheatre, a Roman work, being ■ loo small for the ancient population of the L City, is supposed to have been constructed 1 during its decline. now called Le Grotte di S. Gio- vanni, peculiarly well construct- ed, and so immensely large as to resemble a subterranean city. They are entered by a Passage six feet high, eight feet wide, and excavated in a right line, so as to form the principal street, above which is an opening for the ad- mission of light and air. Other streets branch off in various di- rections ; and are all bordered with Columbaria, Sepulchral Chambers for families, and an infinite number of oblong Cavi- ties, made to receive the remains of adults, and likewise of Chil- dren. A Stone Quarry situated in the ancient Acradina , and now the Garden of the P. P. Cap - puccini , merits notice ; as this Garden, part of which is near an hundred feet below the level of the soil, exhibits a scene peculiarly picturesque and beautiful : it has been hewn out of a rock hard as marble; and consisting of gravel, petrified shells, and other marine substances ; and the bottom of this vast Quarry, whence, in all pro- bability, most of the materials for building Syracuse were taken, is at present covered with a lied of vegetable earth, so fertile as to produce superb oranges, citrons, pomegranates, etc. Part of the Quarry is cut like the Ear of Dionysius ; and on one of the per- pendicular masses of stone (left to support the roof), steps are visible, near its summit. Some Greek letters, graveu in the rock, have led antiquaries to conjecture that the Athenians, made prison- ers in consequence of the defeat of Nicias and Demosthenes, and Contiguous to this Edifice are three Co- lumns of mrtrhle, called the remains of a Temple erecled hy the Romans, and dedi- cated to Ceres and Proserpine. 502 SICILY — SYRACUSE. [cm xv. afterwards liberated for repeating verses from Euripides, were con- fined here. Under a fig-tree, contiguous to this spot, was found a headless statue of Venus, now in the Syracusan Museum, and a small Statue of iEscuIapius ; the former being excellent Greek sculpture. Travellers, not press- ed for time, should visit the Pis- cina , under the little Church ofS. Nicola, and a most magnificent ancient reservoir for Water. The remains of the ancient Walls of Syracusse likewise deserve minute examination, as they are beautiful specimens of masonry. The exte- rior part was perpendicular, the interior shaped into steps ; and triangular stones are said to have formed the upper part of the parapet. Modern Syracuse, com- puted to be about two miles in circumference, exhibits narrow streets, and a dejected, sickly po- pulation, not amounting to more than fourteen thousand persons: for the contiguous Marshes, and the extreme heat of the sun, w hich is said never to have been obscur- ed one whole day at Syracuse, make the climate very unwhole- some. The modern Town con- tains a Public Museum , in which the Venus, already mentioned as having been found without her head, is by far the finest piece of sculpture. Here, likewise, are the Inscriptions, taken from the Street of the Tombs, etc. ; several Sarcophagi; the lower part of a fine Easso-rilievo, and two small Vases of ancient coloured glass. The Syracusan wine is particu- larly good, and of twelve kinds : and the olive-trees in this neigh- bourhood are of an astonishing size and age ; some of them being more than two centuries old. They produce delicious oil. The number of Papyri growing near the Fontana Papiria (or Ciane), is somewhat reduced at present ; because the farmers cut and dried them to bind sheaves of grain: but this practice is now prohibit- ed ; and paper, resembling the ancient papyrus, has been recent- ly made with this plant. The castor-oil shrub grows in large quantities at the sides of the roads near Syracuse. Travellers, on leaving this Town, to proceed to Catania , a distance of forty-two miles, retrace their steps through ancient Syracusse, and pass a. Tomb called that of Archimedes, but not corresponding with Ci- cero’s description of the Tomb he saw. Two fluted Doric Columns support an Architrave and Frieze with Triglyphs, above which is a pediment ; all these are hewn out of a solid rock ; and the interior contains niches for urns, and a Sarcophagus. Adjoining is a simi- lar Tomb. The road, after pass- ing these Sepulchres, descends the Sea la Grceca , cut sloping on the sides of precipitous rocks, which extend on the w 7 est toward Fort Labdalus, and are equally precipitous along the sea coast toward Ortygia . Near the sea are Stones laid regularly, in various places, as for a road : and further on, to the left, is a Wall, appa- rently of Cyclopian work, and standing where Marcellus pitched his Camp. The contiguous Tro- phy, erected in honour of that great and amiable Roman, dis- plays a base tweuty-four palmi square, and sixteen high, on which is a Fragment, probably of a fluted Column. This Trophy was, according to report, much injured by the earthquake of ch. xv.] SICILY— CATANIA. 503 1542. 1 Further on, the road presents a prospect of Mililli, 2 together with Augusta (built by Frederick II.) , and its Harbour; and then becomes dreary, till it advances toward the sea, and ex- hibits a fine view of Etna. Be- yond this spot Travellers cross the River Giarretta, anciently the Sytinethus , in a ferry-boat ; thence tra versing a large bed of Lava, which extends to Catania, and was produced by an Eruption of iEtna, in 1669. The first view of Catania and its Saracenic domes is striking. iEtna, with its thickly inhabited base, towers behind it: and run- ning out in a line before the Town, and beyond the present ! Port, is a stream of black Lava, of 1669, which again appears at the | end of the Corso, and is a fearful sight ; although the blocks are now mouldering into dust. The Strada-Messina may be called handsome : but houses with all their windows shattered, cracked walls, and columns declining from their perpendicular, proclaim the nature of the contiguous Moun- tain. Catania, anciently Catcetna (Town of iEtna), was, according to some writers, founded by the Cyclops, and one of their first built Cities. Other records say it was founded by a Colony from Chalcis, seven hundred and fifty- three years before the Christian era . It now contains above thirty thousand inhabitants, and the only University in the Island; and is, 1 Not far remote from Syracuse is Nota, a .beautiful little Town, containing a collect ion of Medals, etc. on sale. 2 This district Was once famous for Sugar Canes, which were sedulously cultivated during the period when Sicily was obliged to furnish a thousand cwt. of sugar, annually, for the Knights of Malta. In the Village of Avola, eighteen miles distant from Syracuse, moreover, the See of a Bishop; whose revenues are very consider- able; owing, in great measure, to the produce of the snow on .Etna : for this Mountain not only fur- nishes Sicily with that healthful commodity, but likewise supplies Malta and several other places. Frozen snow is, strictly speaking, the staff of life in Sicily, both of the nobleman and the peasant; each of whom dreads a want of it, more than a famine. Catania was severely injured by the eruption of 1669, and almost entirely de- stroyed by the earthquake of 1693, when great part of its in- habitants were buried under the ruins of their houses and churches : but it rose again, Phoenix like, from its ashes, so much increased in beauty as to rival, if not eclipse, every other City of the Island — may it never again fall a prey to volcanic eruptions ! — It contains good Hotels ; The Elephant Inn , Piazza del Duomo, which is very comfortable ; and the Corona d'oro ; the master of which Ho- tel, Sig. Abbate, is an excellent Guide to the summit of Etna. The Cathedral at Catania was originally built, and the See founded, by Ruggiero, in 1193. The existing Cathedral is the most chaste and elegant Church Sicily possesses: in its Facade are several Columns of granite, taken from the Sceua of the ancient Theatre : its Cupola is superb; the Frescos, on the ceiling, are by Corradino ; and on the left side of the Edifice is a good Picture of small Sugar Plantations may still be seen : but tliey are kept up merely as objects ol' curio- sity anti pleasure; the superior quality of W est Indian sugar having put an end to tl e cultivation of the Sugar Cane in Sicily, as an article of commerce. This plant is said to be indigenous to the Island : but whether its use was known to the ancients, or is a mo- dem discovery, seems uncertain. SICILY— CATANIA. 504 S. Agata, by Paladino. The Ara- besques of the doors of the Cross Aisle, and the Bassi-rilievi , are by Gagini ; and a Chapel to the north of the Choir contains line specimens of Lava and Alabaster; one piece of the red Lava being equally beautiful with rosso an- tico, though somewhat paler. 1 The Piazza del Duomo is orna- mented with an Obelisk of red Egyptian granite , placed on the back of an Elephant sculptured in lava. The Obelisk displays Hie- roglyphics, and is supposed to have been made by the ancient inhabitants of Catania, in imita- tion of the obelisks of Egypt. The Elephant is one of the works of the lower ages. The Monas - tero dei Beneditlini especially deserves notice, on account of having been so nearly destroyed by the Lava of 1699, that its pre- servation seems miraculous. The existing Garden belonging to this Convent is situated upon the Lava ; which, after approaching within live yards of the Edifice, turned off to the left ; on the north side it came within ten yards, and turned the corner near the Church, which was also un- touched. But the earthquake of 4693 made it necessary to rebuild this Convent: and the present Structure is vast and magnificent : its Church would be handsome, but for the abominable whitewash with which the modern inhabi- tants of the two Sicilies have spoilt their public edifices. The Choir is ornamented with fine Carving in wood : some of the Paintings 1 The Sacristy, belonging to the Dnomo, contains a Fresco, which represents the ter- rible Eruption of 1669. 2 The Arches of the ancient subterranean Structures, at Catania, are formed with tiles, placed, alternately, between pieces of lava: and the tile marked with a Rabbit, or a Hare, for it is difficult, in pottery, to distinguish the fen. XV. are by Cavallucci ; the Organ is excellent, the singing fine, and the whole service performed with dignity and devotion . The Monks belonging to this Confraternity are the sons of noblemen ; and appear to be persons of education. They possess a valuable Museum, which, except it beat their dinner hour, is shown to Travellers of the male sex. This Museum con- tains above three hundred ancient Sicilian Vases, exquisitely shaped and beautifully painted — one vase, with a black ground and red figures, displaying Etruscan Cha- racters — a collection of Penates in terracotta , and bronze — a superb Venus-Anadyomene in bronze — an ancient circular Lamp for twelve lights — another Lamp for five lights — a collection of ancient Sacrificial and Family Utensils — a Roman Legionary Eagle — upward of a thousand an- cient Medals of Sicily, Magna Grsecia, and Greece, properly so called — Shells—Petrifactions, and Lavas from ./Etna — two Tables of Petrified Shells polished — two Tables of Ebony and Ivory, re- presenting the principal events in the Roman History — a Table com- prising two hundred varieties of Marbles — ahd likewise several an- cient Tiles ; one displaying the figure of a Woman, and another that of a Rabbit. 2 The Church belonging to the large and wealthy Convent of S. Nicola d’ As ena is three hundred and fifty English feet in length, by two hundred and forty in width ; and contains an Organ with seventy-four stops, one from the other, was probably manufac- tured at Messina; as Anaxilaus, Sovereign of Rhegium, is said to have brought hares, or rabbits, most likely the latter, to Messina, where that quadruped was previously un- known; and in consequence, ancient Messi- nian medals bore the stamp of a bare, or a rabbit, whichever it might be. ch. xv.] SICILY— CATANIA. 505 one being imitative of drums and cymbals. This Instrument, which is considered as a capo d' opera , Was made by a citizen of Catania. The University founded in 1444, by Alffhonso, at that period Mo- narch of Sicily, contains a very large and valuable Library. The Museum formed during the last century by the Principe Ignazio Biscari , a most amiable, enlight- ened, and patriotic nobleman, highly deserves notice ; and Tra- vellers, anxious to see it to advan- tage, should signify their wish, over night, to the principal Cus- tode ; a gentlemanly, well inform- ed person ; who, thus called upon, shows the Museum himself. The Court-yard contains a small an- cient Obelisk of granite, charged with Hieroglyphics, like that in the Piazza del Duomo — ancient Mill-stones, and Sarcophagi, of Lava — and a Pedestal supporting a Vase of Lava, also ancient and ornamented with Bassi-rilievi. 1 2 Among the collection of Bronzes, are — a Wrestler — Adonis — a Drunken Fawn— Antinous —Ju- lius Caesar — several Statues of "Venus — Mercury — and a small Hercules. The collection of Egyp- tian, Etruscan, and Lathi Anti- quities, is large; and one of the Balances has a Weight represent- ing the figure of Rome. Here, likewise, are ancient Tools, used by Mechanics — Sacrificial Uten- sils, and others, used in Public Baths — Kitchen Utensils — an an- cient Ploughshare — magnificent bronze Vases, and elegant Lamps, one of which, shaped like a Scenic Mask, may be divided so as to make two. Among the collection 1 Ancient bassi-rilievi of Lava were not uncommon at Catania ; several of them having been found there in the ancient Baths. 2 Many of the Sicilian medals record the of Statues in marble is a Torso, semi-colossal, and found in the ancient Forum of Catania. Ac- cording to Riedesel it represented Bacchus, and is in the very finest style of Grecian sculpture ! ! This gallery likewise contains a Cor- nice, and a Capital of one of the Columns of the ancient Theatre, excavated by Prince Biscari — a Statue of Hercules, found in an- cient Catania, with one leg want- ing, which lias been ill restored — a fine Pedestal- — busts of Jove, and Caracalla — Venus, with a modern nose— a Hero — Scipio, with a Scar on the Head — Julius Csesar — Adrian in the character of Mars — the Statue of a Muse, found in the ancient Theatre, and beautifully draped — and Ceres crowned with ears of corn, and supposed to represent Li via. Among the Bassi-rilievi is a beau- tiful Female Figure seated on one side of an altar, and a graceful manly figure on the opposite side, with his hand extended, as if he were in the act of adjuration ; and behind the Altar is a third Figure, witnessing the scene. Another Basso-rilievo represents the head of Medusa, and is a fine Fragment. The Museum contains a large collection of Penates — a Cabinet of old Sicilian Costumes ; eight thousand Medals, Roman, Sicilian, and Greek, four hun- dred of which are gold : and this collection comprises the whole series of Consular, and likewise of Imperial Roman Medals. 3 Here also is a Philosophical Cabinet, which contains two exquisite La- chrymatories of ancient coloured glass — a collection of Armour, filial piety of Annpius and Amplnnomus, na- tives of Catania, who, as already mentioned, saved their parents from dcato, dining an Eruption of .Etna. 506 SICILY— CATANIA. Jen. xv, and curious Musquetry — a good collection of Shells, and Sicilian Marbles — Specimens of the iEtna and Lipari Lavas — together with upward of four hundred ancient Sicilian Vases of pottery, found in and near Catania ; some of them magnificent in point of size, all beautifully shaped, and several superbly painted. One of these Vases is highly prized for having a white ground, not often met with ; and another exhibits four horses harnessed to a war-chariot. Catania contains a Silk Manufac- tory ; and fine Specimens of Am- ber may be purchased in this City. 1 The remains of the ancient Town are, generally speaking, subterranean; and were chiefly discovered by Prince Biscari. Pre^ vious to the year 1669, the Castle stood on the sea shore, near the magnificent Mole formed in the sixteenth century by an Eruption of JElna, 2 and contiguous to the ancient Wall of the Town, with a delicious Spring and Stream of water at its base. But the Lava of 1669, which ran from the Monti-Rossi (near Nicolosi), in a direct line to this point, accumu- lating till it rose above the Wall (near sixty feet high), filling up the sea to a vast extent, and de- stroying the Mole, had left, near the half-buried Castle, a small aperture, which enabled Prince Biscari to ascertain where the Wall of the Town was situated: and, in consequence, he made an excavation, and recovered for his compatriots their regretted Spring of water ; to which Travellers are 1 The fruit, wine, and indeed all the pro- ductions ot Catania, and its environs, are ex- cellent. 2 Nature had not given Catania a good Harbour; hut AStna fully supplied this defi- ciency, by the above-named Mole, beyond the power of man to have constructed. now conducted down, by a Stair- case of sixty-three Steps in the midst of solid Lava. This Spring is perfectly translucent. The Greek Theatre , over which mo- dern houses are now built, ap- pears to have stood on the side of a hill, and was larger than the Theatre of Marcellus at Rome. Its columns were used by Rug- giero to ornament the Cathedral erected at his command ; and the hand of Ignorance seems to have destroyed, during the dark ages, most of its decorations. Three Corridors and seven Rows of Seats have been excavated ; and enough of the Scena remains to show the Three Doors of Entrance for the actors. 3 An Aqueduct is likewise discoverable here. The present Entrance is by the ancient Stairs of the Theatre ; and to the right of these, are several other ancient Steps, leading to the Odeum , which was only one hun- dred and forty-five feet in diame- ter. Both Theatres were con- structed with iEtna Lava ; and perhaps, in the dramatic exhibi- tions here, Tisias, surnamed Ste- siehorus, who resided and died at Catania, might have first taught the Chorus to become stationary and chant, accompanied by mu- sic. Near the Porta di Aci, like- wise called Porta Stesi corea, from the Tomb of Stesicliorus having been placed here, are subterra- nean remains of the immense Amphitheatre erected by the Roman Colony Augustus esta- blished at Catania. But, when gladiatorial shows were abolished, 3 Wc are told that this Theatre existed during the second attack of the Athenians upon the Syracusans; and that Alcibiades, the Athenian general, pronounced an oration here. The Upper Corridor seems to have been furnished with Boxes, for female Spectators. CH. XV. SICILY — jETNA. 507 this colossean Edifice was neg- lected ; and at length became a mass of ruins : in consequence of which, the people of Catania asked permission of Theodosius, to use some of the materials for repairing their walls; which per- mission was given, and profited by, in other inslances. The cir- cumference of this Edifice is re- ported to have been a thousand feet: several of its Corridors are excavated ; and the lowest exhi- bits Dens for wild-beasts. On the western side are large Chan- nels for Water ; which might pro- bably have been let into the Arena when naval combats were repre- sented. The Amphitheatre was built on the side of a hill. In the Vapour Baths , excavated by Prince Biscari, the Waiting-room, and Furnaces, still exist : 1 and under the Convento de’ Carmeli- tani is another ancient Structure, supposed to have belonged to Public Baths. Its form is octa- gonal : its diameter thirty- three feet; and it has a hemispherical Cupola. The style of the Edi- fice, and the Inscriptions, are Roman. Behind the Monastero dei Benedittini, in the midst of Lava, are several Arches of a magnificent Aqueduct , which brought water to Catania from Licodia, sixteen miles distant : this, too, is Roman work. The Garden of the P. P. Cappuccini contains a well-preserved circular ancient Tomb; together with ruins of an ancient Pyramid , small, but similar in construction to those of Egypt. Toward the northern part of the modern City, near the Bastione degl' lnfetti , i are remains of a large Structure 1 Bolls of Lava, found near the Furnaces, have led antiquaries to conjecture that these of excellent Greek masonry, sup- posed to be part of the celebrated Temple of Ceres , to which fe- males only were allowed access ; and whence a peculiarly fine Sta- tue of the goddess was stolen, by Yerres. Westward, beyond the Walls of the City, are a consider- able number of ancient Tombs. At the Chiesa della Mecca is a well - preserved Columbarium ; and another may be found in the Garden belonging to the Minoriti. Beyond the Palermo -Gate of Catania, and extending for some miles, is a good Carriage-road ; and the whole way between Ca- tania and Termini a Carriage- road is forming. Persons who mean to ascend ./Etna, in order to view the rising sun from its summit, should pro- vide themselves with strong thick- soled half-boots ; those lined with fur are the most comfortable; gloves lined with fur ; woollen stockings ; and travelling caps lined with fur. Thick veils are likewise extremely useful to guard the eyes, and prevent the sulphu- reous clouds which frequently roll down /Etna from affecting the breath. Light, but very warm pelisses, or great-coats, are also needful; and Sicilian travelling cloaks, with hoods, the whole made of leather, are particularly convenient, as they exclude rain. A strong walking-stick, with an iron spike at the end, is likewise a great convenience between the Casa degli Inglesi and the summit of the Mountain. Mattresses, Coverlids, a Tinder-box and Matches; Lamp-oil, a Lantern containing a Lamp, Water, and a Kettle for heating it ; Carbo - halls were made red-hot, and used for keep- ing up the heal of lires. m SICILY — iETNA. nella ; 1 an earthen Pipkin filled with strong Soup in jelly ; Coffee, Sugar, Wine, powerful enough to be mixed with hot water, and Rum, or Brandy, for the Guides, are necessary appendages to this expedition. Travellers, how- ever, should, on no considera- tion, follow the example of their Guides, by drinking spirits, to fortify themselves against the in- tense cold in the uppermost re- gion of ./Etna ; as the purpose would not be answered ; and ill- ness might probably ensue. It has been already mentioned that the Master of the Corona d’oro at Catania is an excellent Guide for iEtna : but, in case of danger, the Mules and Guides of Catania can- not be so much depended upon as .those of Nicolosi ; and there- fore Travellers often prefer the latter. 2 An ascent to the summit of iEtna is unprofitable, and seldom practicable, unless the weather be serene and settled. This mountain rises more than ten thousand feet above the level of the sea. 3 Pindar mentions it as an active volcano : Homer is silent on the subject. 4 Probably, therefore, no Eruption had taken place in his days. Plato’s first visit to Sicdy originated merely from a wish to examine the Cra- ter of iEtna ; and Adrian ascend- ed this mountain to contemplate the rising sun from its summit. Its Base, computed to be above forty leagues in circumference, is full of Conical Hills ; and this first Region likewise displays Villages, 1 Persons whe intend sleeping at the Casa degli Inglesi, on ASlna, where there is a ki Lchen, would find Charcoal more useful than Carbo nella. 2 The peasants of /Etna are celebrated for being robust, intrepid, civil, and honest. 3 According to Ferrara, it is ten thousand one hundred and ninety-eight Paris feet [CH. XV. Gardens, Vineyards, Fields of Flax and Hemp, Hedges of Aloes : Olive and Orange-trees, and the Date-bearing Palm. The second Region , called Bosco di Paterno, is covered with Ilexes ; and, to- ward the north, with Pines. The soil here being Lava converted by the hand of Time into rich vege- table earth, yields aromatic Herbs, and Flowers of various descrip- tions, mingled with Fern: but beyond the Grotta delle Capre, formerly used as a shelter for Travellers, the trees become fewer in number, deformed, and dwarf- ish, tils , at length, they degenerate into shrubs, and are lost amidst volcanic sand. Here commences The third Region , consisting of Scoriae, Ashes, and Snow; and leading to a Platform, in the cen- tre of which is the Crater. The ascent to this platform presents no difficulty with respect to its steep- ness ; but the excessive coldness of the air on so elevated a spot, and the gusts of wind, and clouds of sulphur, which sometimes assail Travellers, are distressing ; and if not properly guarded against, dangerous. There are now two Refuges , or Resting Places, for Travellers on iEtna, the Casa del- la Neve , consisting of one room onlv, about thirty feet long, and originally built to shelter peasants employed in collecting snow ; and the Casa degli Inglesi , consisting of three rooms, a small kitchen, and a stable for mules ; and erect- ed at the expense of British Offi- cers quartered in Messina, A. D. 1810. 5 The warm clothing re- above the level of the sea ; and, according to English measurement, ten thousand and thirty-two feet above the same level. 4 Homer’s descriptions of counlries are even now geographically true; and there- fore his silence is strong presumptive proof. 5 The Key of the Casa degli Inglesi is kept at Nicolosi, by Sig. Mario Gsmellara, who re- SICILY— ^ETNA. CII. XV.] quisite for Travellers who ascend to the Crater, should be put on in the first Refuge : and it is like- wise advisable to have extra- wrappers, carried by the Guides, to be worn by Travellers on their arrival at the Crater. The great object in visiting ./Etna is to see , from its summit , the rising of the sun , the Pyra- mid formedby the Shadow of the Cone , and the panoramic View j over the whole Island. To the east of the path which descends from the Crater are Ruins, called La Torre del Fi- losofo , and supposed to have been an Altar or jEdicula, raised by the - Romans, when they possessed Sicily, to dEtnean Jove. 1 An English Gentleman and his i Wife, who ascended to the Crater of iEtna at Midsummer, 1826, under the direction of Vincenzo Carbonaro , a judicious Nicolosi Guide, give the following report of their journey. 44 The weather being favour- able and the mountain clear, we set out, at half-past eight in the morning, from Catania; where Fahrenheit’s thermometer was 71 : and soon leaving the new road w’hich leads to Messina, reached an immense sheet of I Lava, commonly called the Port i of Ulysses , and supposed to have I been that, described by Homer, i as 4 commodious;’ 2 * but ./Etna has so completely filled it with Lava, that this Port cannot easily be 1 traced. From Catania to Nico- I sides there ; and Travellers should call for it as they pass. 1 Diodorus says, there were several Altars, in Sicily, thus dedicated. 2 See Homer’s Odyssey, Book IX. Homer’s description, however, cannot he expected to | agree in this instance with present appear- j ances; as all the Eruptions of Etna, (immense j in number) are supposed to have taken place subsequent to his time. He flourished, ac- |j cording to the Aruudelian Marbles, above nine 509 losi the country is covered with small villages, well cultivated farms, and a profusion of fruit : and in sight of Nicolosi is a small Crater of an inconsiderable depth, near the road. We reached Ni- colosi, which is twelve miles from Catania, at a quarter past eleven : and at ten minutes after twelve, mounted fresh mules, and took two Muleteers, together with Vin- cenzo Carbonaro , and another Guide. We then travelled over a plain of fine sand ; having, on our left, Monte-Rosso , whence issued the destructive torrent of Lava, which, in 1669, overwhelm- ed Catania. Clouds now began to form on ./Etna ; and thunder re- sounded like cannon : but, never- theless, our Guides said, the weather would prove favourable. After crossing a field of Lava, w r e reached the Bosco , or woody Region , which resembles a park : and here we heard the Cucco and saw May in full blossom : but, owing to various streams of Lava, we were obliged to take a zigzag path, in some places unpleasant. The Bosco consists chiefly of stunted ilexes ; and as we ascend- ed through it, the thunder conti- nued; though the clouds did not conceal the summit of Monte- Agnola. We now perceived a sensible difference in tempera- ture ; and, before our arrival at the Refuge , the thermometer fell to 66. This Refuge , seven miles from Nicolosi, and called the Casa della Neve, we reached at a hundred years before the Christian era; and Pindar, who. as already mentioned, gives Lhe first account of an eruption of .Etna, was not born till more than five hundred years after the death of Homer. Thucydides is, next to Pindar, the earliest authority who speaks of an Eruption : and he describes it as having occurred between the eleventh Olympiad, B. C. 736, and the scventv-fiflh Olympiad, B.C. 47 d.—Bcll. Feiop. L.3. $10 SlClLY- quarler before two. The Hut has no door ; and several of the tiles have been blown off its roof ; but placing our Mattresses in the dry- est part of the wet pavement, and nailing a coverlid over the door- way, we dined, and went to bed. The Guides and Muleteers slept round an immense fire, on the outside of the Hut; and at ten o’clock at night we got up, took coffee and bread, and put on warm clothing. The clouds bad dispersed ; the stars shone bright- ly ; and the Guides said, we should have a fine ascent; espe- cially as the wind (the thing of all others they fear most) had sub- sided. At half-past eleven, when the moon rose, we set out ; leaving our mattresses, etc. in the care of a lad: and, before quitting the Bosco, we passed the Grotta delle Capre , a small Gave formed by Lava. On quitting the Bosco, we found the degree of cold increase ; the ascent likewise became steep- er ; and a slight wind arose. Here the moon, reflected in the Biviere di Lentini, was a beautiful object. Previous to reaching the snow the ascent became much steeper ; the cold increased, and one of our party lost, for a short time, the use of a finger. On reaching the snow, w r e found it hard, and very slippery; insomuch that the mules could scarce keep upon their legs : however, we arrived without any accident at the Casa degli Inglesi (during Summer the usual sleep- ing-place on iEtna ) 1 about a quarter past two in the morning. The distance from the Casa della Neve to the Casa degli Inglesi is eight miles. The floors of the 1 The snow which during winter had ac- cumulated in the Casa degli Inglesi, owing to the roof being out of repair, was only just cleared away when the party in question w ent to the summit of ditna; and the Refuge iETNA. [ch. xv. latter Refuge were covered with ice ; and the chairs and table wet with drippings from the roof. Having made a fire and boiled some snow, we took soup, and warm wine and water : after which, leaving the mules in the Refuge, we proceeded, at three o’clock, on foot, accompanied by our Guides ; who told us the Walk to the Crater would occupy about an hour. 2 Between the Refuge and the Base of the Cone we cros- sed a considerable tract of frozen Snow and Lava ; finding the walk over the former not unpleasant ; but, owing to the want of day- light, it was very troublesome to cross the Lava. On approaching the summit of the Cone we found ourselves in a cloud of sulphur ; and were ordered, by the guides to move quickly to the westward ; by doing which we soon got out of this smoke, so dense, that it nearly blinded us for the moment. The edge of the Cone of ./Etna is much wider than that of Vesu- vius, less sandy, and the path round it perfectly safe to walk upon. The ascent likewise, though longer, is preferable to that of Vesuvius; being firmer, and abounding with large stones, which afford good footing. We sat down on the Lava, which was heated by its numerous vapour apertures; but, nevertheless, could not keep ourselves tolerably warm. In a quarter of an hour, however, a gleam of light over Calabria, announced a brilliant sunrise : and, though the sun was partially concealed by clouds, their tints increased the beauty of the scene. Other clouds, floating was conseqnently so wet, that to sleep in it would have heen dangerous. 2 It is however advisable to allow an hour and a halt; in order not to he disappointed of seeing the sunrise. SICILY — 7ETNA. CB. XV.] on the sea, looked like wool, and almost hid the tops of Lipari and Vulcano: but these clouds soon dispersed ; and we then sawStrom- boli, and the neighbouring Is- lands, distinctly. Our view over the circuit of Sicily was magni- ficent. Every mountain we looked upon seemed shrunk to a hillock ; but Melazzo, Caslro-Giovanni , the Biviere di Lentini, Augusta, and ancient Syracusse, were very con- spicuous objects. When the wind cleared away the vapours, we occasionally saw down the Crater of ./Etna ; which, in some places, is not precipitous : to walk round it occupies about an hour: but it has none of the grandeur dis- played by the Crater of Vesuvius, which is nearly twice its size, with respect to circumference. A most curious and singular sight was the shadow of the Cone of JEtna , in the shape of a Pyra- mid, formed, apparently at a dis- tance, over the south side ofSicily. As the sun rose, this Pyramid de- creased in height. The thermo- meter, on the summit of ./Etna, fell to thirty. We quitted this stupendous scene with the great- est regret : and passing, once more, through sulphur vapours, commenced our descent, at a steady walking pace. The lofti- ness of the Cone was now appa- rent ; and we felt surprised to see how high we had ascended. After taking refreshments at the Casa degli Inglesi , we remounted our mules. Hence the descent was rapid ; snow nearly covered the Piano del Lago ; and, passing Montaguista, we went close to piles of Lava, and had the steep- est part of /Etna to descend : but about eight in the morning we reached the Bosco ; took oft our extra-clothing at the Casa della 511 Neve, and arrived, by ten o’clock, atNicolosi; where, not being ex- pected till a much later hour, we were detained some time in changing the mules. During the descent it was interesting to ob- serve the numerous Craters ; but, proceeding rapidly without di- verging from our course to exa- mine any of them, we reached Catania a quarter before one : and Abbate declared ours was the quickest return he knew of. The thermometer in the shade at Ca- tania, about an hour after our arrival, was 77.” A party of English Gentlemen, who ascended to the Crater of .Etna the end of November, 1824, under the direction of Abbate, give the following account of their journey. “ Being advised, by Abbate, to sleep at the first Refuge, the Casa della Neve, we did not set out from Catania till eleven in the morning. The conical hills in the first Region of /Etna appear to be formed by ashes, stones, etc., which the earth emits at the point where it opened to dis- charge lava : and, after a certain length of time, curious crystals are found in these hills. Dining at Nicolosi , we recommenced our journey soon enough to arrive just before night at the Casadelli Neve ; which stands at the top of the Bosco. This Refuge is a hut with half its tiles oft'; and the table, chairs, and door, it once possessed, have all been burnt by half frozen Travellers. Here were ourselves, and six mules, the Muleteers, the Guides, etc., a fire made with green wood, and a thick smoke, which threatened to stifle us all, for it would not draw through the holes among the tiles; and the Hut has no 2S ¥¥M * 512 chimney. We had provided mat- tresses : and after supper lay down to sleep, if we could, wrapped in our leathern Sicilian cloaks ; which proved most useful. The Guides, Muleteers, etc. sat round the fire : and soon after two o’clock in the morning we all started for the Casa degli Inglesi; which our Guides told us was a three hours’ ride. On quitting the Bosco, we found the cold excessive; insomuch that it was scarce possible to speak, till we reached the shelter of the Casa degli Inglesi. Here, one of the servants became sick and giddy; 1 and one of the Gentlemen found his feet so completely benumbed that it was some time before he recovered the use of them. How- ever, this Refuge was in better repair than the other; and a good fire cheered us all. 2 The situa- tion of the Casa degli Inglesi is so elevated that even during Sum- mer, when Travellers usually sleep here, they are obliged to have fires. On quitting this Re- fuge, we found the weather good ; and experienced no inconvenience in our ascent to the Crater, except a difficulty of breathing ; and this partly resulted from the hoods of the Sicilian cloaks, which the ex- treme cold compelled us to put on. The sun had risen a quarter of an hour before we reached the summit of iEtna, and was a little (though a very little) clouded; but overhead, and all around us, we had a beautiful clear sky, ex- cept toward the north, where clouds lay close upon the land. It was a few minutes past eight when we arrived at the Crater; 1 The common effect of intense cold upon Foreigners, on the heights of ZEtna, after drinking spirits. 2 Travellers should he careful not to ap- proach very near these fires: for a Peasant, {CH. XV. whence huge volumes of sulphu- reous smoke were issuing : and the wind, being high, involved us in a small portion of this smoke, toward the latter part of our ascent. The Crater is angu- lar, and of a prodigious depth ; it was partially obscured by va- pours ; which, on rising into the air, were tinted with a variety of brilliant colours by the sun : but the cold was so intense that we could scarce continue for a quar- ter of an hour in this exalted situation (where F ahrenheit’s ther- mometer fell to 18) ; although our feet, from having sunk some way into the sooty ground, were warm : and on remo ving part of the soot to look for sulphur spars, we found the heat as strong as the hand could bear. These speci- mens of sulphur are the most beautiful, and the most deceptive things imaginable : for their deli- cate and lovely bloom rubs off with the slightest friction. On our descent we visited the Torre delle Filosofo , thence proceeding eastward, till the Guides bandaged our eyes, and led us to a point, the Brink of the Val del Bue , where, on sight being restored, we beheld a lofty precipice, and a tremendous Crater. Hence we descended to the Casa della Neve : and, the day being much advanc- ed, were under the necessity of sleeping at Nicolosi , in an Hotel more distinguished for the civility and attention of its Landlord, than for his means of rendering the house comfortable.” On leaving Catania, Travellers usually proceed to Giarra , a dis- tance of twenty^-four miles. Be- •who attended this party of Gentlemen, suf- fered agonies, and became indeed extremely ill, by putting his bare feet close to a large fire. SICILY — jETNA. ; CH. XV.] SICILY- tween Catania and L’Ognina, which stands on part of the site of what is called (perhaps erro- neously) the Port of Ulysses, the road traverses the Lava of 1669; and soon after passes Gastello di Aci, a strongly situated Portress built upon ancient Lava which ran into the sea, and surrounded on three sides by that element. The next objects of interest, dur- ing this ride, are the Scopuli Cy - clop urn, at Trizza. The largest of these Islands is volcanic and . basaltic ; and the substruction is a species of yellowish chalk, which contains small crystals. On the summit is a Spring of fresh water. The next Island contains very fine basaltic Columns. In all there are seven Islands adjoining each I other; though only three bear the name of Scopuli. Some writers < conjecture that these are the Rocks described by Homer, as being near the Cave of the Canni- bal, Polyphemus, who feasted on i the ill-fated followers of Ulysses : but as these Rocks are decidedly Volcanic, and apparently theofl- spring of iEtna, they could not have existed till long after Ho- mer’s death. Between Trizza and j Aci Reale the road crosses huge h blocks of ancient Lava mixed with thick turf; which renders the 2 footing for mules in several places i very unpleasant. Near Aci Reale, i on the sea shore, is another object of interest, the Scali di Aci , or j Steps of Acis : according to fabu- i Ions history the spot where that Shepherd was murdered by his Rival. These Steps consist of ancient strata of Lava, one above another, with a layer of vegetable earth between each. There are, at least, nine strata; all formed by different eruptions : and a con- siderable time must have elapsed -MTNA. 513 between each Eruption, to have allowed the formation of soil. The mule-track in the environs of Aci, though it traverses beds of Lava, is not bad : and the coun- try, the whole way hence to Giarra, is beautiful. This Town contains a tolerable Hotel, fur- nished with clean beds ; and the neatness of the houses, and the number of vessels building in the Port, announce the prosperity of the inhabitants. After sleeping here, Travellers usually make an Excursion, which occupies about five hours, to visit some gigantic Che snuU trees, one of which is called Castagno di cento Cavalli. It now looks like six trees close together : and the fact seems to be, that it is a fine old Stock, whence the common kind of ches- nut underwood was cut ; and that six sprays were allowed to form the six trees in question ; which are computed to be a hundred and ninety feet in circumference at three feet from the earth. Near this Tree are others, of an extraordinary size : but the soil being the richest in Sicily, all its productions luxuriate. The dis- tance from Giarra to the Chesnut- trees is about six miles : and al- though the path is sleep, and the footing for mules slippery and disagreeable, the peculiar beauty of the country renders the ride delightful. Travellers tempted by the hospitality of the British Vice-Consul, or any other cause, to rest half a day at Giarra, usu- ally take, next morning, a cii cuitous route , by going to Fran- cavilla; another delightful ride; and thence to Giardini ; which is only eleven miles from Giarra ; though, taking the circuitous route, this ride occupies eleven hours : but Travellers are amply SICILY— iETN A, 514 repaid by the beauty of the scene. The mule- track from Giarra to Francavilla passes through Gala- tabiano, a picturesque village, overhung by a Castle : thence it follows the course of the river Alcantara, up a lovely valley, adorned with a view of Motta, crowning a lofty rock ; and like- wise with a view of Castiglione, finely placed on a conical mount. After crossing a wild brook, with a cascade, this sweetly variegated path reaches Francavilla ; where Travellers should ascend the hill, to see a magnificent prospect ; in which the Capuchin Convent forms the grand object. Travel- lers may vary this scene, by going to F rancavilla on one side of the Alcantara, and returning on the other. Thrown over the river is an ancient Bridge, now a pile of ruins, whence the retrospective view may, with truth, be called enchanting. The distance from Giarra to Francavilla is eighteen miles; and thence to Giardini, ten. After sleeping at the latter place, which contains a tolerable Hotel, Travellers usually proceed through Taormina to Messina , a distance of thirty-four miles. Taormina , about two miles from Giardini, and approached by a steep ascent, is beautifully and strongly situated on the de- clivity of wild and lofty rocks, in a salubrious air, and crowned with an ancient Castle. This, now inconsiderable, Town was once the magnificent City of Tau~ rominium, supposed to have been so called from the small river Taurominius , which flows near it. The Zancleans, and Hybleans, in the age of the elder Dionysius, built this City, amidst hills, at [cb. xr, that period celebrated for the grapes they produced, and the prospects they exhibited and, at the present moment, the red wine of Taormina is excellent. Here are interesting monuments of an- tiquity. The Naumachia , four hundred and twenty-five palmi long, and one hundred and ninety- six broad, is a parallelogram, con- taining, on one side, thirty-seven Niches, alternately large and small. Channels of masonry to conduct water into the Edifice are likewise discoverable ; and the whole structure appears to be Roman, some of the Bricks having Roman characters stamped upon them. Above the Naumachia are remains of five Piscinae ; similar in form, but not in size : they were lined with the Opus Signinum; and the smallest of the five is in the best preservation. A row of eight Pillars divides it into two Aisles, one hundred and twenty- eight palmi long, forty-eight wide, and thirty high ; and the apertures for the entrance of the water are visible. The Church of S. Pan - crazio is evidently the Celia of, an ancient Grecian Temple, of w hich the Walls are still preserv- ed : they consist of large blocks of white marble, joined together without cement; and are supposed to have been taken from the fa- mous marble Quarry in this neigh- bourhood. Contiguous to the Church are ruins of an Aqueduct, and likewise remains of a Wall cased with white marble, and probably the ruins of a Temple erected to Apollo, by the inha- bitants of Naxos, when they found an Asylum in Tauromi- nium. The size of this Structure seems to have been immense. In 1 See Diodorus Siculus, 16. ch.xv.] S I C IL Y— MESSIN A . 515 the Valley, which leads to Mes- sina, are two ancient quadrilate- ral Tombs. But the most precious monument of antiquity now left in Tanrominium is its Theatre. A peculiar hollow, in the upper part of a rock, was chosen for the site of this Edifice; which stands above the modem Town, in a lovely situation, commanding *a view of the Straits of Messina, Giarra, Aci, iEtna, and the whole country near Taormina, which is highly cultivated, and richly ! clothed with olive and mulberry- i trees. The shape of the Theatre j is semi-circular, the order of ar~ I chitecture Corinthian. The Scena (of masonry, and nearly perfect) had three entrances from the Post- scenium ; the centre door being ; large, the others small. Between the large door, and each of the small ones, were three niches ; and beyond each of the small I doors was a Niche. The Prosce- nium is only five p'alrni in breadth ; but might, nevertheless, have been large enough to contain the Chorus : the Orchestra, likewise, is narrow in proportion to the rest of the Edifice. Under the Pro- scenium and Scena is a subterra- nean Passage, or Gallery, in part open to the Theatre. The use of this Gallery is not known ; but some antiquaries suppose it was for the Prompter ; and that he read the parts, while the Actors merely supplied gesticulation. The Scenic Masks, however, com- : prising a kind of speaking triini- I pet, and universally worn by all the ancient Actors, Mutes ex- cepted, prove this last conjecture 1 The aqueduct was probably constructed to convey away the water which fell in the Theatre; a needful precaution, there being no I roof. 2 The marbles indigenous to Taurominium groundless; although the Promp- ter’s station, notwithstanding, might have been here. Under the Theatre are an Aqueduct, and a Reservoir for water: 1 and on each flank of the Scena are square Structures , probably Dressing- rooms for the Actors, and With- dra wing-rooms for the audience in case of bad weather. None of the Seats remain. The Walls ap- pear to have been covered with white marble, fragments of which are visible : and in consequence of an excavation made during the years 1748 and 1749, a consider- able number of Columns of Gra- nite, Cipoilirio, Porta-Santa, and Saravenza Marble, were found here : 1 2 a variety of other archi- tectural ornaments have been discovered, sufficient to evince the magnificence of this Theatre ; and such is its perfection, with regard to the convey ance of sound , that words uttered in the lowest tone of voice, on or near the Scena, are heard distinctly, even in the Corridor which terminates the Edifice. Hence to the sea- coast the descent is very rapid : and after passing a hedge of ole- anders in front of some cottages, and a Fortification called Fort Alessio, and constructed by the English, Travellers usually rest themselves and their mules for two or three hours at a place four- teen miles from Giardini, and then proceed, through a beautiful country, to Messina ; where The Britannia is a very clean and comfortable Hotel. Messina, called by the Siculi Zancle (a Sickle), from its Beach, were celebrated for their beauty ; but, never- theless, foreign marbles seem to have been preferred as decorations for the public edifices of this Town. SICILY — MESSINA, 5id formed like a crescent, was found- ed, according to tradition, sixteen hundred years before the Chris- tian era : and some of the classic writers report that Anaxilaus, Sovereign of Rhegium, made war against the Zancleans, with the assistance of the Messenians of Peloponnesus; and, after proving decisively victorious, called the conquered city Me s Sana, in com- pliment to his allies. This event is supposed to have taken place about four hundred years pre- vious to the Christian era. In aftertimes the Mamertini (merce- nary soldiers) took possession of Messana, subsequent to which, it fell into the hands of the Ro- mans ; and was, for a considerable period, their chief hold in Sicily. The modern Messenians aided Count Roger in delivering their country from the Saracenic yoke ; and were recompensed with great privileges, some of which they still retain. But the misfortunes of Messina, in modern times, have been great. The Plague, in 1743, swept away full fifty thousand of its citizens : and the earthquake of 1783 nearly destroyed its magni- ficent Quay, and most of its superb edifices. The splendid crescent of houses, fronting the Marina, was reduced to piles of ruins ; and the narrow streets were universally blocked up by fallen buildings; though some of the public structures, owing to their solidity, remained standing ; and among these was the Cathedral : but the almost total destruction of private dwellings compelled the inhabitants to encamp in huts of wood. The dreadful effects of this earthquake were not oc- casioned by one shock only, but by several, which succeeded each other from the fifth to the seventh [t'U. vu of February. The first was the most violent : providentially, how- ever, an interval of a few minutes, between the first and second, enabled the inhabitants to escape from their tottering houses, and take refuge in the country. At the entrance of the Straits of Messina, on the Calabrian side, a violent shock of this earthquake being felt about noon, the people of the neighbourhood fled to the sea shore ; where they remained in safety till eight o’clock at night; when, owing to another shock, the sea swelled immensely, and suddenly precipitated its waves upon the beach, ingulph- ing upward of a thousand per- sons : and the same tremendous swell sunk the vessels in the port of Messina, and destroyed the Mole* The dogs in Calabria ap- peared to anticipate this awful convulsion of nature, by howling piteously : the sea-fowl fled to the mountains : and a noise, like that of carriage-wheels running round with great velocity over a stone pavement, preceded the first shock of the earthquake; while, at the same moment, a dense cloud of vapour rose from Calabria, gra- dually extending to the Faro, and the Town of Messina. The loss of property here, public and pri- vate, was incalculable : splendid churches, works of Art, libraries, and records, being all involved in the common ruin: but such was the probity of the Messenian Mer- chants, that no one of them de- clared himself a bankrupt, in con- sequence of this severe visitation. Messina is most beautifully situated in a climate at all seasons salubrious; and cooler than any other part of Sicily during sum- mer. The houses are large and commodious ; the environs abound cii.xv.J SICILY— MESSINA. 517 with lovely and shady prome- nades; the necessaries of life are, generally speaking, cheap and abundant ; the fish is particularly good ; and the people are lively, intelligent, penetrating, and cour- teous ; especially to the British Nation. Travellers, on arriving at Messina, usually visit the Faro ; to which there is a Carriage-road made by the British Troops, when stationed here : and this drive oc- cupies something more than an hour. On walking to the Light - house , it is not difficult to discern the Current now reported to run in and out of the Straits, alter- nately every six hours : and this Current at less than a mile from the shore, occasions Breakers , called Charjbdis; but no longer dangerous. 1 Scylla, on the op- posite coast, and about three miles distant, has the appearance of a gigantic Rock, separated, by some accidental circumstance, from the main land. 2 The Promenade on the Marina displays exquisite scenery, and a magnificent Port crowded with shipping : but, from want of means, the line of new houses in this vicinity have only their lower stories finished. The Billiard-room , and Reading- room, merit notice; as the situa- tion in which they are placed is beautiful; and the scale on which they are built superb. The Ca- thedral, a spacious Edifice, con- tains a Marble Pulpit, by Gagini ; and a High-altar richly embel- lished with Florentine Mosaics, and six Columns of Lapis Lazuli, 1 It is, nevertheless, affirmed, tliata Trans- port, not many years since, was whirled round, three limes, by the eddy at Charybdis; and that the Currents in the Straits are still remarkably strong and irregular. 2 This Rock is not completely, though nearly, separated from the Calabrian shore. 3 It is said that a ruinous Tower, below supporting a representation of the Madonna, under a gold canopy. The Plate in the Sacristy is the Capo d Opera of Guevara. The Church belonging to the Convent of S. Gregorio contains a fine Copy of the celebrated Picture of that Saint, at Bologna. TheNo- viziato de Gesuili is deliciously situated; and possesses a few good Pictures of the Roman School. The Town, backed by highly cul- tivated and thickly wooded moun- tains, looks to peculiar advantage from the Ramparts near the Cita- del; which, on this side, is strong- ly fortified. Silks ; knitted silk stockings; light cloth; and car- pets similar to those of Turkey, are fabricated at Messina. The TValk to the Telegraph and that to Tinamara, are famed for com- manding fine views. 3 The Roads, or, more accurately speaking, the mule-tracks round Messina, gene- rally lie in the beds of torrents ; after hard rain extremely danger- ous; though several houses are scattered on their banks: the bridle-road to Melazzo is, how- ever, good ; and the Town worth visiting, as the descent thither displays bold scenery ; and the Place is supposed to have been the ancient Mjle , where Ulysses’s Companions slew the Oxen of the Sun : 4 and between Melazzo and Lipari was the battle fought by Octavius Ca3sar and Marcus Agrip- pa, against Sextus Pompey, which put an end to the power of that piratical Commander; who fled, by night, to Melazzo, and thence the Castellacio, which commands Messina, was erected by Richard I., of England. 4 Homer tells us the Herds consecrated to Apollo were kept “on Sol’s bright Isle,” Trinacria. See Odyssey, Book XII. These Herds were labouring oxen, employ- ed in Tillage: and it was esteemed, by the Ancients, a particular profanation to destroy a labouring ox, and criminal to eat of it. 51S SICILY-MESSINA. took refuge with Mark Antony. Melazzo is enriched by a Tliunny Fishery, from the middle of April to the end of June; and from the beginning of August till September. An excursion , by water , is frequently made from Messina, to visit Scylla, and land at Rheggio, about four leagues distant, and whither it is sometimes necessary to be towed up by oxen, on ac- count of the strength of the Cur- rent. Rheggio, anciently Rhe~ gium , displays melancholy traces of the earthquake of 1783. One handsome street, in which stands the Cathedral, is, however, capa- ble of being restored without great expense. The Cathedral deserves notice : the University contains curious imitations of Plants : the Manufactory of Ber- gamotte Oil is worth seeing; and in this Town Travellers are shown a house, called the birth-place of Ariosto ; although Reggio in Italy (Rhegium LepidiJ is generally supposed to be the spot where that great Poet was born. The Country about Rheggio merits observation. Travellers, in order to com- plete their Tour round the sea- coast of Sicily, usually prefer em- barking in a Speronaro 1 at Mes- sina, visiting the Lipari Islands, and going thence to Cefalu ; in- stead of going by land to the latter Place: for although the mule- track, as already mentioned, is good as far as Melazzo, it is bad and mountainous thence to Ce- falii. This little voyage, generally speaking, occupies about three days : and the following account is an extract from the journal of 1 A. Speronaro is a very safe kind of boat, with from six to ten oars, according to its size, and a helmsman. an English Gentleman and his Wife, who went from Messina to Cefalu, by sea, during Midsum- mer, 1826. 1 2 “We set out at seven in the morning, in our Speronaro, with ten boatmen and two boys. The rowers stand upon the decks There was a fixed awning, under which we sat and slept ; having hired mattresses at Messina. After passing the Faro, we found the wind unfavourable ; and, taking in our sails, rowed to Acqua - Nero, landing there at one o’clock. At a quarter past five the wind dropped, the sea was calm, and we resumed our voyage. A fair breeze during the night brought us near Stromboli , where, with occasional rowing, we arrived at nine in the morning. By the aid of a letter of recommendation to a Priest, called Don Giuseppe, we procured a room to dine in ; and feasted on exquisite figs. At half- past two we set out for the sum- mit of the Mountain ; finding the ascent rapid, and the heat exces- sive. The depth of the sand, and the steepness of the path, render this ascent more toilsome than those of ./Etna and Vesuvius ; it occupied near three hours. F rom the summit we saw the Crater about half way down ; and the sight was grand and imposing. The Eruptions were only occa- sional; and resounded like can- non, shaking the ground. At eight in the evening we re-em- barked, and rowed under the Island, till we came in sight of its beautiful little Volcano. Two small Mouths threw up fire inces- santly ; that on the south being the most active ; and, at intervals, 2 The hire of a Speronaro, large enough to convey from four to six passengers, is about fifteen ounces, forty-five Neapolitan ducals. 519 ca. xv.] SICILY— LIP ARI ISLANDS.— CEFALU. its force increased ; while a north- ern Mouth, between every sixth and tenth minute, threw up large quantities of stones ; but they were ejected with less violence than those thrown from the opposite side. The finest Eruption we saw startled us ; for it began with a sound like the discharge of artil- lery ; which was followed by a shower of stones so vivid that the whole side of the Mountain glow- ed with these bounding red-hot balls. Some of the largest broke to pieces as they rebounded against others; but, before they reached the sea, their heat was nearly gone. These Eruptions, reflected in the water, were mag- nificent. Leaving this extraordi- nary scene, we steered with a fair wind for Lipari ; and about half- past seven in the morning were close to its remarkable Hill of white Pumice; which is exported in large quantities, and a source of wealth to the Island. We cast anchor close to the Lazza- retto at ten o’clock ; and remained on board till one, waiting for our passports ; because the Authori- ties were not quickly found, it being a Festa. At one, however, the British Consul, hearing of our arrival, invited us to his house, and received us most hospitably. Lipari contains Hot Baths , about four miles from the Port, in a rocky, narrow valley. We slept on this Island; and embarking next morning at a quarter before four, reached the Bay of Vul - cano, at a quarter before five. The Bay exhibits wild rocks : the Island rose out of the sea two hundred and two years previous to the Christian era; and was consecrated, by the Greeks, to Vulcan . 1 We landed at five ; and in a quarter of an hour reach- ed the base of the Crater; to the summit of which the ascent is gradual, the path good, and the time occupied in ascending about forty minutes. We went down by an easy descent into the Cra- ter; which is deep, grand, and exceedingly splendid with respect to the colours of its crystal sul- phurs; large numbers of which are continually collected. On retracing our steps, we reached the summit at ten minutes past seven ; and embarked in our Spe- ronaro at eight. Having cleared Vulcano, we steered for Cefalu : but the appearance of a strange sail made us cautious, as we had been told of pirates : and soon after passing Capo d'Orlando, we coasted along to Cefalii; arriving there about midnight. Next morning we got pratique, settled with our Captain, gave his Men a buonamano , and did not regret having made this little voyage, by which we were much interested, though considerably fatigued. The situation of Cefalu is beauti- ful: and, while our mules were preparing, we visited its Cathe- dral , which contains ancient Mo- saics at the end of the Edifice, and ancient Columns, and Capi- tals, in the Nave and Choir. The two Pillars between the Nave and Transept display Figures of Men supporting the Abacus. Cefalu is the ancient Cefaloedis. After a short detention at the Custom- house here, we mounted our mules about a quarter before nine, in order to proceed to Termini ; a distance of twenty-four miles, through a lovely road, especially the first part, which lay between 1 All the Lipari Islands were denominated Vulcani Insula. 520 CHARACTER OF THE SICILIANS, etc. fen. xv. coppices of aloes and myrtles, the latter in full blossom. At two o’clock we reached Termini ; and found its Hotel tolerable. This Town was anciently called Ther- mo* Himerensis , on account of its hot Baths : it still contains Warm Salt Baths ; and remains of an an- cient Edifice, supposed to have been a Theatre, may be traced in the Senate House, and Prison. After sleeping at Termini, whence there is a good Carriage-road, in distance twenty-four miles, to Pa- lermo, we set out for that City at half-past eight, and reached Page’s Hotel at a quarter past twelve, driving the whole way between gardens with fences of magnificent aloes bursting into flower.” The Sicilians, taken collective- ly, are good humoured (though prone to momentary wrath, and addicted to jealousy), acute, ani- mated, eloquent, and endued with considerable talents ; especially for poetry; but owing to that fickleness of disposition common to the descendants of the ancient Greeks, seldom pre-eminent in arts and sciences, from want of perseverance. They are proud of what their country once was; and by no means deficient in that chivalrous spirit which might, if encouraged, render them again a powerful People. For hospitality to Strangers they were always famed ; and, respecting this vir- tue, the present race have not degenerated from their ances- tors ; as the poorest Sicilian pea- sant will offer the best of every thing his cottage affords, to the traveller who pauses at his door. The populace are civilized, sober, and honest ; easily governed by gentle means, though indig- nant when treated with harshness. All ranks seem partial to the British Nation. On the northern and eastern coast of Sicily, the natives, of both sexes, are hand- some; their countenances being perfectly Grecian : and the female peasants on Mont Eryx, at Syra- cuse, about Catania, on iEtna, at Giarra, and on the road to the Caslagno di cento Cavalli, are likewise very handsome : their costume throughout the Island is Grecian : but, in all the Towns, females wear black silk cloaks, which cover the head and face, according to the Spanish mode. A black leather cloak and hood, covering the whole person, is universally worn, in winter, by the male sex, when out of doors. The manners, customs, and do- mestic economy, of the Sicilian peasants, are said to be, at this day, what Theocritus represents them. The oxen throughout the Island are handsome animals of a dun colour, and remarkable for particularly fine horns, both with respect to length and thickness : and the nightingales seem to be as plentiful as the flowers, making the air resound with their har- mony. The vegetable produc- tions of Sicily are more various, and more abundant, than of al- most any other country : and besides those mentioned in the foregoing pages, and several which, owing to the narrow limits of this Work, must be passed over in silence, is a Tree resem- bling the ash, which yields Medi- cinal Manna. An incision is made in the bark of this tree, near the root, at the commencement of August ; and from this incision issues the juice which, when dried by the sun, becomes manna. The bread throughout the Island, except at Giardini and Taormina, is excellent, and especially so at ch.xv.1 SICILY— MANNER OF TRAVELLING, etc. 521 Girgenti: the Hybla honey has long been celebrated. Near Maz- zara, and in some other places, the females spin cotton ; and large quantities of hemp are grown in several districts. There is like- wise a variety of fine fish on every part of the Sicdian coast; and the Thunny, and Pesce Spada, are particularly esteemed. The climate of Sicily is excel- lent during Winter, and the six first weeks of Spring : but in Summer, Autumn, and even till the middle of November, MaV aria prevails in several spots of the Island ; especially at Seli- nuntium, at, and near, Lentini ; and likewise at, and near, Syra- cuse. Even during winter, Sici- lian scenery, so far as relates to colours, is gay and brilliant ; the sky, in general, being cloudless, and the sunrise and sunset mag- nificent beyond description : dur- ing summer the brilliancy and beauty of the scenery is, of course, augmented ; and the months of June and July are those most proper for an ascent to the Crater of iEtna. Sicily, however, is not, at any season, like several parts of Magna Grse- cia, uniformly beautiful : for al- though some tracts are luxuriant to excess, and cultivated to per- fection, others are dreary, wild, and neglected : but if the plan of making a good post-road, to form an inland communication between Palermo and Messina, should be carried into effect, it may pro- bably prove the means of induc- ing Sicilian noblemen to work the waste lands, and thereby com- plete the beauty, and increase the wealth, of their country. Sicily does not, at present, con- tain above one million and a half of inhabitants. No regular post-roads having yet been established, Travellers (Pedestrians excepted) are under the necessity of going from place to place throughout the Island, either in a Lettiga, or on mules. A Lettiga, the national carriage, holds two persons ; and is, in shape, something like the body of a Vis-a-vis. This Vehicle, pro- vided with strong poles, resem- bling those of a Sedan-chair, is carried by very powerful porter- mules, as the body of a travelling carriage was, in past times, con- veyed over the Mont-Cenis. Two mules go before, and one behind, accompanied by a muleteer on foot, armed with a stick, ten or twelve feet long, to guide the mules ; and another muleteer mounted, and riding at the head of the Cavalcade. A Lettiga is not usually furnished with cushions to sit upon; but has a dirty lining, and a gaudy outside : it goes up and down every hill, however steep, and makes the neighbourhood resound with mule-bells ; which are hung, in a triangular shape, on the back of the leading mule. The motion of a Lettiga is fatiguing, and apt to produce drowsiness : and, more- over, the country cannot be seen to advantage in these Vehicles: neither cap Travellers, thus con- veyed, stop when they wish it; as the mule-bells prevent the muleteers from hearing, when called to; and besides this, a chair is indispensable for getting out of, or into, a Lettiga. The noise of the mule-bells may like- wise prove an inconvenience, from impeding conversation. Tra- vellers, who ride, usually furnish themselves with one mule for each gentleman, or Lady ; ditto, for each Servant ; ditto, for the Guide, 522 SICILY— MANNER OF TRAVELLING, etc. [ch.xv. who also ads as Cook and Pur- veyor ; and ditto, for luggage. The difference between Sicilian and Neapolitan money is as fol- lows 10 grana of Naples make 1 Tari of Sicily. g ditto ... 1 Carlino. 1 ditto ... 1 Baioccho. I ditto ... 1 Grano. The price of a Lettiga carried by three mules is about thirty carlini per day, while Travelling; and about fifteen carlini for every day of rest. Males for persons who ride may be engaged at Pa- lermo, and throughout the Island, for ten tari each mule, on tra- velling days, and five on resting days ; unless it be during harvest, when the price on resting days is six tari. The muleteers expect a trifling buonamano at the end of the journey. At Catania the hire of mules is somewhat cheaper than at Paler- mo. An English Gentleman, not long ago, paid per day for the same mule, from Catania to Pa- lermo, eight carlini on travelling days, and four on resting days ; and other Travellers have lately engaged mules from Catania to Palermo at the rate of nine carlini for every travelling day, and five on resting days. For every mule from Nicoiosi to iEtna, the price is fifteen tari; and for every Guide from Nicoiosi to the sum- mit of iEtna, including his mule, and charcoal for the Casa degli Inglesi, the price is two piastres and a half. At Catania, Messina, Syracuse, and Page's Hotel in Pa- lermo, beds are six tari each per- son ; and dinners eight : but it is necessary for Travellers, espe- cially at Syracuse, to make their bargain beforehand. In smaller 1 Two Masters and one Servant travelling on mules, with one luggage-mule, a Pur- veyor, and his mule, usually spend, in Sicily, towns beds for masters are four tari each, beds for servants two tari each ; and the Guide belong- ing to the Travellers, provides the table. This Guide, who, as al- ready mentioned, acts as Cook, and Purveyor, and who is an in- dispensable appendage to every party of Travellers in Sicily, ex- pects, for wages, one piastre a day, and a mule provided at the expense of his employers. 1 On this mule, however, he does not object to take a block-tin tea- kettle and the stew-pans, etc., re- quisite for cooking. Besides these articles Travellers should furnish themselves with Leather Sheets, Linen Sheets, Table-Linen, Tow- els, Knives, Forks, Spoons, a Lan- tern, and Tinder-box, common strong Cups and Saucers, the former without handles ; a block- tin Tea-pot; a Coffee-pot; Rum- mers of double flint glass, or Bo- hemian crystal ; Sugar, Tea, Coffee, Maccaroni, Parmesan Cheese, Hams, Poultry, and pot- ted Butter; as butter cannot be rocured in Sicily, except at alermo and Messina. Large double Silk Parasols, and Straw Hats and Bonnets, double-lined with thick post-paper, are need- ful securities, at all seasons, against a coup de soleil: and some Travellers, who do not re- gard the expense of an extra-mule, take Mattresses; though they are seldom required, except on as- cending iEtna ; the mattresses at Hotels being, in general, good. At Palermo the best Guides for Travellers who purpose making the Tour of the Island, are Ca- mello Calalani and Francesco Marsalona. about two pounds sterling a day in road ex- penses, the wages of the Purveyor inclusive. ch. xv.] SICILY— ROUTE ROUND THE ISLAND. 523 Letters of recommendation to all the Civil Authorities from the Luogotenente at Palermo, are de- sirable ; and letters of recommen- dation, from the British Consul General to all the Vice-Consuls, are, for British Travellers in Si- cily, most useful. 1 Passports, on leaving Naples to visit this Island, on leaving Palermo to make a Tour round the sea-coast to Ca- tania and Messina, and on leaving Messina to visit Rheggio, or the Lipari Isles, are, at present, in- dispensable. ROUTE ROUND THE SEA-COAST OF SICILY, ON MULES ; BETWEEN THE LATTER PART OF MAY AND THE EARLY PART OF JULY, 1826. 2 1st day. From Palermo to Sala di Partinico ,-f- miles 1 9. Hours employed in riding, 5%. From Partinico to Alcamo ,* miles 12. Hours employed in riding, 3 %. Objects best worth notice ; Morreale— its Cathedral — Pic- ture, by Morrealese, in the Be- nedictine Convent — View of the Valley. 2d day. Temple of Segesta, -f- miles 9. Hours employed in riding, 3. — Trepanifiri'les, 21 . Hours employed in riding, 6$. Objects best worth notice ; Temple of Segesta — Theatre. 3d day. A Vineyard, f- Hours employed in riding, 4. — Mar- sala * miles 18, from Trepani. Hours employed in riding, 2^. Object best worth notice ; Monte S.Giuliano, the ancient Eryx. 1 Travelers experience great civility from Messrs. Douandy and Campo, who frequently furnish them with introductory letters. 2 Dining places, in the following Route, are marked with a cross; sleeping places with an 4th day. Mazzara , ¥ miles 12.— Hours employed in riding, n. Stone Quarry-k- near Campo- Bello, miles 8. — Hours employ- ed in riding, 2.— Castel-Ve- trano,* miles 8.— Hours em- ployed in riding, 2. Object best worth notice ; the Stone Quarry. 5th day. Selinuntium , 4- miles 9. Hours employed in riding, 2 — Sciaccaf miles 21 . — Hours employed in riding, 41. Objects best worth notice ; two Sets of Temples ; three in each, at Selinuntium. Hot Springs at Sciacca. 6th day. San Patro , on the banks of the Platanus,4- miles 19. — ■ Hours employed in riding, about 4\. — Siculiani ,* miles 11. — Hours employed in rid- ing, about 2$. 7th day. Girgenti, 4- miles 12. Hours employed in riding, 3j£. Objects best worth notice ; the Mole — the Temples, and other Antiquities — the Cathedral, its Baptismal Font, and Echo. 8 th day. Occupied in seeing the remains of Agrigentum. 9th day. Palma , t- miles 16. — Hours employed in riding, 5%. Licata * (commonly called Ali- cata), miles 12. — Hours em- ployed in riding, 2>\. 10th day. Half a day of rest. Terranova ,* miles 18. Hours employed in riding, 5. 11th day. A Ztara,-f- miles 17. — Hours employed in riding, 4%. Cultagironef miles 7. Hours employed in riding, 2$. Object best worth notice ; a celebra ted Manufactu re of sm all Clay Figures, at Cullagirone. asterisk. Persons who make the Tour of Sicily during line weather find it pleasanter, and more economical, to dine out of doors, in a shady situation, near a spring, or sticaui of good water, than in a country Hotel. 25 ***** 524 SlCfLY— ROUTE ROUND THE ISLAND. [ Lentini ,* miles 13. Hours em- ployed in riding, 3 3 £. Object best worth notice, the Riviere di Lentini : an exten- sive, but very unwholesome Lake, well stored with fish. 1 3th day. Walnut-trees,- h miles j 7. Hours employed in riding, 5 %. — Siragusa, * miles 13. — Hours employed in riding, 3%. Objects best worth notice at Syracusa ; — Amphitheatre — Theatre — Ear of Dionysius — Tomb called that of Archime- des — Strada Sepulcrale — Cata- combs— Remains of Fort Lab- dalus — Subterranean Passage for Cavalry, etc. — Garden of the P. P. Cappucini — River Anapus — Temple of Jupiter Olympicus — Papyri — Fonte- Ciane — Duomo — Statue of Te- rms, in the Museum. 14th, 15th, and 16th day, at Syra- cuse. 17ih day. Scaro ct A gnuni, -f- miles 24. — Hours employed in riding, 6%. Catania, * miles 18. Hours employed in riding, 4%. Objects best worth notice; on leaving Syracuse, Scala Graeca — Trophy erected in honour of Marcellus. At Catania; Thea- tre — Amphitheatre — Baths — and other Subterranean Anti- quities — Duomo — Church of the Benedictines, their Garden and Museum— Prince Biscari’s Museum. 18th, 19th, and 20th day, at Ca- tania. 21st and 22d day. Expedition to ./Etna , now called Mongibello. 23d day, at Catania. ,24th day. Trizza,-{- miles 7. — flours employed in riding, about 2. Giarra, ¥ miles 17.— Hours employed in riding, 3%. Object best worth notice ; Sco- puli Cyclopum, at Trizza. As the ride from Catania to Giarra occupies only half a day, Tra- vellers frequently employ the other half in visiting the Cas- tagno di cento Cavalli, situated about six miles from Giarra. 25th day. F rancavilla miles 18.— Hours employed in rid- ing, about 5. Giardini,* miles 10. Hours employed in rid- ing, about 3. 26th day. Dining Place , miles 14.« — Hours employed in rid- ing, and visiting the Ruins of Taurominium, 2 miles beyond Giardini, 5[. Messina,* miles 20. Hours employed in riding, about 5. Objects best worth notice; Church of S. Pancrazio — an- cient Piscinae — Naumachia — Theatre, and Yiew from it, at Taormina. At Catania; Con- vent of S. Gregorio — Cathedral — Citadel — Faro — surrounding Country. 27th, and three following days, Messina. 28th day, by Sea — From Messina to Ac qua Nero, hours 6. 29th day, at nine in the morning Stromboli. To examine the Crater here occupies the better part of a day. 30th day, at ten in the morning, Lipari. To examine this Is- land occupies the better part of a day, and Travellers usu- ally sleep here. 31st day, at five in the morning, Vulcano. The walk to and from the Crater here, occupies hours 2 1. And if the wind be tolerably fair, Cefalii is reached before midnight. 32d day, on mules, from Cefalu 525 f ch. xv.] ROUTE FROM CATANIA TO iETNA. to Termini^ miles 24. Hours employed in riding, 5%. Pa- lermo, miles 24 — in a four- wheel carriage, hours 3$. ROUTE FROM CATANIA TO THE SUMMIT OF ETNA. 1 N icolosi, miles 12. — Hours em- ployed in riding, 2$. Casa della Neve (winter sleeping place), miles 7. — Hours em- ployed in riding, 1$. Casa degli Inglesi (summer sleep- ing place), miles 8.-— Hours employed in riding, 2$. Walk to the summit of the Cone —hours 1% Descent to the Torre del Filosofo, Valdel Bue, Nicolosi , and Ca- tania, from 10 to 12 hours. The intense cold on the summit of iEtna is so apt to affect the health, that Travellers are often compelled to stop an hour, or more, either at the Casa degli Inglesi, or the Casa della Neve, to recover them- selves. A party, who ascended on the 29th of May, found Fahrenheit’s thermometer, at half-past seven in the evening, 50^ — at eleven, 45- — at half-past twelve, 41Jj — at two in the morning, 30 — at thirty-five minutes past two, near the Casa degli Inglesi, 27 % — at a quarter 1 Travellers who engage the same mules io take them from Palermo to Messina, usu- ally employ these animals to convey them as before four, at the Casa degli Inglesi, 20, and on the sum- mit of the Mountain, at five o’clock, 19^. To shorten the time spent in the cold Regions of iEtna, and likewise to avoid the trouble and expense of carrying mattresses and coverlids thither, Travellers, capable of bearing long-continued exercise, should set out from Ca- tania about noon — proceed to Nicolosi— repose there — then sup —leave Nicolosi seven hours be- fore sunrise — -proceed to the Casa della Neve — remain there one quarter of an hour only, to put on warm clothing — thence ride to the Casa degli Inglesi — remain there half an hour only, to pro- cure hot soup and warm wine and water — and thence walk to the summit of the Mountain. The ascent, thus managed, occupies six hours and three quarters. The Author feels that it would be assuming a merit to which she has little claim, did she not most thankfully acknowledge how much the foregoing account of Sicily has been improved by the minute, accurate, and valuable observations, in manuscript, of E. I. Rudge, Esq. ; and the Notes of other intelligent British Tra- vellers, who have recently visited the Island. far as Nicolosi, on llieir asceut to the Crater of /Etna. 526 ROUTE FROM GENOA TO PISA, etc. [ch.xt. ROUTE FROM GENOA THROUGH LUCCA TO PISA, BY THE NEW ROAD. 3 Recco — A gradual ascent. A third horse from Recco to the next post, both going and returning. An extra half-post is paid on quitting Genoa. 1 1 Rap alio — A third horse to the next post, both going and returning. 1$ Chiavari — A third horse to the next post, going but not returning. Two good Ho- tels at Chiavari. 21 Bracco—A third horse to the summit of the Mountain. Price one livre and five sous, buona-mano inclusive. Mattarana — A small Inn; not a good one. \l Borghetto — A third and fourth horse from Borghetto to Mattarana, but not vice versa. Inns at Borghetto, L' Hotel de Londres , and L Hotel d Europe; latter very bad; former very to- lerable. A third and fourth horse from Borghetto to La Spezia, and vice versa. 3 La Spezia — Inns, L' Hotel d Europe, E Hotel de Lon- dres , and L' Hotel de t Uni- vers : the first very com- fortable ; the second by no means a bad Inn ; the third uncommonly dirty and ill provided. Road from Rec- co to La Spezia very moun- tainous. 2% Sarzana — Inn, La Lunigia- na , and good. This is the last Town in the Genoese Territories. {% Lavenza — Road to Massa not good. 1 Massa — Inn, Hotel des quatre Nations, and good. 1 Pietra Santa— Inn, La Pos - ta , and good. 1 Montramido. \\ Lucca — Inns, The Albergo Reale della Croce di Mal- ta, and The Pellicano. 2 Pescia. i% Pistoja — Inn, II Sole , and tolerable. 1J£ Prato. \l Florence. 291 posts. This Road, the seven miles be- tween Lavenza and Massa except- ed, is smooth, hard, and excel- lently made. The ascents and descents, though numerous, are not rapid; but they require ad- ditional parapet walls, to ensure the comfort and safety of Travel^ lers. For further particulars see, at the end of this Chapter, 44 Route en Voiturier from Na- ples through Genoa, and by the Mount-Cenis, to Calais, in the Spring of 1827.” ROUTE FROM GENOA TO TURIN, BY THE YAL DI SCRIYIA. 2) Pontedecimo—A third and 2% Ronco. fourth horse from Pontede- 2 Arquata — A third horse cimo to Ronco, and vice from Arquata to Ronco ; versa. but not vice versa. 531 ch.xv.] ROUTE FROM NAPLES TO CALAIS. D ys. Roman miles. tween Sestri and Routa it passes through two Grottoes delved in a rock of hard yellow marble, and lined with masonry ; which destroys the beauty of the work. Near these Grottoes there is a sad want of para- pet walls. On coming to Routa, the road passes through another Grotto, the length of which is very consider- able ; but a lining of masonry hides the superb marble in which it is formed. Genoa. . . . * . 15 The goodness of theroad between Sestri and Chiavari, and thence to Genoa cannot be exceeded even in Italy; where fine roads are now almost universal. 16th. Ronca. . . ... 18 Inn, L'Europa. Road excellent, it passes for five miles through a flat country, and then ascends a lofty mountain of the Apennine, not ex- posed to every.blast of wind, like the old road over the Bocchelta; but securely sheltered throughout the whole Passage, which terminates at Ronca. Novi. ...... 20 Inn, E Hotel d Europe. The road, which is flat and good, passes through a lovely little valley almost circular, and embellished by a waterfall. 17th. Alessandria. . . 12 Inns, Grande Albergo d Italia, Lo- canda Reale. Between Novi and Alessandria the Bridge over the Bor- meda is broken ; and a Bridge of Boats substituted in its stead ; but this Bridge, after floods, is not al- ways passable. Road good. Assi. ...... 18 Inn, II Leone d'oro. Road good. 18th. L'oerino 15 Inn, L' Angelo. From Asti hither there is a gentle descent almost the whole way. Road good. Turin 12 Road excellent. 19th. S. Ambrogio. Susa 12^ Inn, La Vigna llT ' ~ 20th. Lanneslebourg. . 20 , Road excellent. Inn, La Posta. Road in want of trifling repairs. Inn, Hotel Royal. Road excellent to the first Post-house. Hours, in as- cending, two and a half. Near the Valley embellished with a pretty [cii. xv. 532 ROUTE FROM NAPLES TO CALAIS. Days. Roman miles. miniature Lake, an Avalanche seems to have fallen recently ; the trees and fences being broken by immense masses of snow ; but the road remains uninjured. Hours, in ascending from the first Post-house to La Grande Croix, about two and a half. Road excellent, and thus far free from snow. From La Grande Croix to Lanneslebourg, some snow in the road, and an immense quantity on each side. Time employed in going, two hours and fifty minutes. Beyond the Post-house for a considerable dis- tance, the road on the 16th of May was a sheet of ice bordered with walls of snow twenty feet high; and the Lake of Mont-Cenis was com- pletely frozen. Modane . . .... 14 Inn, Le Lion Tor. The road from Lanneslebourg to Modane suffered by the last inclement winter : one of the Galleries gave way ; and con- siderable quantities of earth fell from the heights above it. These mis- chiefs, however, are repaired. 21st. 5 Jean de Mau-^ l nu , LaPosle . Road excellent. rienne. . . . .) Aiguebelle. ... 16 Inn, V Hotel de V Union. Road excel- lent. 22d. Montmellian. . . 14 Chainbery. ... 10 23d. Pont de Beauvoi - ) Q/1 sin La Tour du Pin. . 16 24th. La Verpilliere. . 18 Lyon 1 ...... 18 25th. 5. Georges. ... 24 Macon 20 26th. Tournus 18 Chalons-sur-Sadne 16 27th. Rochepot. .... 18 Inn, La Poste.^r Road excellent. Inn, Hotel du Petit Paris. Road excel- lent. Inns, La Poste — V Hotel de Savoie. Road excellent. Inn, Hotel Cholat.-k- Road requires some trifling repairs. Inn, Le Chapeau rouge . Road tolerable. Inn, Hotel du Parc. Road tolerable. Inn, Hotel du Chene verd. Road toler- able. Inn, Hotel d' Europe. Road in bad condition. Inn, Le Sauvage. Road bad. Inn, Les trois Faisans . Road better than near Macon. Inn, Le Chevreuil. Road paved for two miles beyond Chalons, and afterwards tolerable. J A Steam-packet runs daily between Lyon and Chalons,, cm. xv.] ROUTE FROM NAPLES TO CALAIS. 533 Days. Roman miles- Ernay 20 28th. Saulieu 18 Rouvray 14 29th. Vermanton. ... 27 Auxerre 16 30 th. Joigny 19 Sens 18 31st. Montereau. ... 23 Meiun. ..... 23 32 d. Montgeron. ... 18 Paris 15 33d. Beaumont . ... 20 No allies. .... 16 31th. Marseille - sur- V [ 9 , Oise p* Poix 16 35th. Abbeville 26 B ernay 13 36th. Samer 27 Boulogne 11 37th. Calais 22 Inn, La Croix blanche. Road from Rochepot to Ernay extremely bad. Inn, Le Dauphin. Road bad. Inn, La Poste. Road very bad, espe- cially in the town of Saulieu. Inn, Hotel de Notre Dame. Road very bad. Inn, Hotel de Beaune. Road tolerable. Inn, Hotel des cinq Mineurs. Road tolerable ; some part of it paved. Inn ,L'Ecu. Road heavy, and ill kept. Inn, Le grand Monarque. Some part of the road is paved, the rest ex- tremely heavy and ill kept. Inn, E Hotel de France. Near Melun the road is paved and in bad con- dition. Inn, La Ville de Lyon. Road indif- ferent. Road tolerably good. Inn, LePaon. Road paved, and well kept. Inn, Hotel de Calais. R.oad tolerably good. Inn, L'Epee Royale. Road tolerably good. Inn, Le Berceau d'or. Road good. Inn, La Tete de Boeuf. Road good. Inn, La Poste. Road good. Inn, La Tete de Boeuf. Road good, except the pavement and hill in the Town of Montreuil. Inn, Ancien Hotel dAngleterre. Road good. Inn, Roberts's Hotel , Road good. Numb, of Romanmiles 1235 Numb, of English miles from Calais to London by the Steam-packet. 126 It is difficult to ascertain, with any degree of precision, the dis- tance from Naples to Calais; be- cause French posts are not all of the same length ; and the length of Italian posts varies materially : added to which, there are no mile-stones placed regularly in any part of the Route : and con- sequently the foregoing calcula- tions with respect to the number of Roman miles from one stage to another may sometimes be erro- neous: but the state of the roads in May 1827 (after a long series of heavy rain), is given with ac- curacy ; and the best Inns are re- capitulated, for the convenience of Persons who travel en voiturier 534 PASSAGE OF SPLUGEN. [CH. XT. PASSAGE OF SPLUGEN. NEW ROAD. (See page 360.) Persons travelling from Suabia, or the Canton of the Grisons, to Venice, or Milan, find this the shortest route ; though nobody should attempt to cross the Moun- tain of Splugen at the season of Avalanches . 1 But after the win- ter snow has fallen, and become sufficiently hard for a sledge to glide smoothly over its surface, or during the months of July, Au- gust, and September, when the winter snow is, generally speak- ing, melted, Travellers may, with- out danger, indulge themselves by exploring this Passage of the Alps ; which very much surpasses in magnificent, sublime, and awful scenery, every other Carriage- road of Europe. It must, how- ever, be acknowledged that the Galleries of this fine road, from the base to the summit of Splu- gen, on the side of the Grisons, are too narrow, and the turnings too sharp for English travelling carriages with four horses : and one of the Grottoes, on the Ita- lian side, wants height ; but this inconvenience will, it is supposed, be remedied in the course of a twelvemonth. The Routes which lead through the Grisons to Splugen unite at Bourg deRagaz , two leagues from which Town are the celebrated Baths of Pfeffers. From Ragaz to Coire (the Capital of the Canton of the Grisons) is five leagues. The road crosses the Rhine b_y the wooden Bridge of Tardis, and 1 When there is such an accumulation of snow that the pointed rocks on the summits of the Alps are covered, Avalanches may he expected hourly. Z A Tari.f containing the number of Posts, traverses by another Bridge the formidable torrent of Lanquart, which has often menaced the sur- rounding country with destruc- tion . Here commences th e superb road which joins, at three quarters of a league from Bellinzone, that of the Canton of the Tessin ; and forms a communication between Italy, eastern and northern Swit- zerland, and Germany. From Coire 2 to the village of Splugen (eleven leagues), the road resem- bles a majestic avenue to an im* mense park. Two leagues from Coire the two arms of the Rhine, namely, the Vorder-Rhein, and the Hinter-Rhein, unite in face of the picturesque Castle of Rich- nau; and the Road passes over these brawling and impetuous streams by two splendid single- arched wooden Bridges ; one of which was the work of a common village carpenter. From Ricli- nau to the small Town of Thou - sis (three leagues and a quarter), the road lies at the base of the luxuriant Mont-Heinzenberg, in the Valley of Dornleschg, ren- dered sterile by the inundations of the Hinter-Rhein and the Tor- rent of Nolla. Here, in a pecu- liarly picturesque situation, are Ruins of the Castle of Realta (called likewise Hohen Rhetien), supposed to have been built by Tuscan Emigrants during some part of the middle ages. From Thousis to Andeer (near three leagues), the road passes through and the expense of Post-horses, Guides, and dismounting and remounting Carriages, on this new Road, has been published by the Government oi the Grisons, and may be found at Coire. ch.xv.] PASSAGE OF SPLUGEN. 535 the Valley of Schains ; crossing by a fine Bridge, near Thousis, the destructive torrent of Nolla, and approaching, by a Grotto pierced through a solid rock, the wild, magnificent, and stupen- dous Ravine, called the Rhein- Avald, or Valley of the Forest of the Rhine, 1 through which that River and the Road, wind amidst perpendicular Rocks not less than three thousand feet high, and clothed to their summits with stately firs, the branches of which seem to canopy the narrow Glen beneath them. The Rhine boils and foams along with appalling rapidity close to the Road; which has no defence against its impe- tuous neighbour but a slight pa- rapet wall. From Andeer to Splugen is near three leagues; and on approaching that Village the Ravine widens, and displays magnificent cascades. This Defile between Coire and Splugen bears undeservedly the name of “ Via- Mala.” Splugen, situated in the Valley of the Rhein wald, con- tains a good Inn; 2 as do two other tillages in this Valley, those of Naffenen and Hinter- Rhein : the last stands at the base of the Bernardino ; and about a league and a half from this Vil- lage the Valley is terminated by the immense Glacier of Vogel- berg, the Source of the Rhine. From Splugen to Chiavenna the drive usually occupies about se- ven hours and three quarters ; full five of which are spent in passing the Mountain. 3 The Austro- 1 The Forest oF the Rhine contains Firs oF so uncommon a magnitude, that one of them is said to measure twenty-five ells round the trunk : and the Fall of the Rhine in this Fo- rest exhibits one of tho sublimest objects in nature; which, while it fills spectators with awe, affords thgm the pleasure of contem- Lombardo Custom-house u two leagues beyond Splugen. The distance from the Village of Hinter-Rhein to the first Re- fuge (Berghans) is near two leagues ; and three hours are usually occupied in going. Berg- hans is a large edifice, situated in a wild country on the margin of a Lake, whose sable waters give birth to the impetuous torrent of the Moesa, which falls into the Ticino, about three quarters of a league from Bellinzone. The road to Chiavenna is formed into Terraces ; and the descent so gra- dual as to preclude the necessity of using a drag-chain. F rom Berg- hans to the Hamlet of S. Ber- nardino is one league and a half ; and midway the road passes the Moesa on a lofty Bridge. S. Ber- nardino is frequented during sum- mer, on account of its Mineral Waters; and consequently, dur- ing summer, Travellers find the Inn at this Village provided with a well-stocked larder; and fre- quently take eatables thence to the next baiting place, Misocco, where the Inn is ill-provided and its master very imposing. From S’. Bernardino to Misocco is three leagues. Here the road enters a cheerful Valley, which displays, as the Traveller advances, the rich culture of Italy ; till at length the hills of Chiavenna, covered with fruit-trees, present them- selves to view; and the mildness of the Italian climate compensates for the coldness of the Alps. From Misocco to Bellinzone is six plating scenes in the creation beyond Ibe power oF any pencil to imitate. 2 Travellers going post over Splugen usu- ally sleep here. 8 The ascent, on the Rheinwald side of the mountain, commonly occupies about two hours. 2S 536 SPLUGEN leagues and a quarter : and three quarters of a league from Bellin- zone, at the bridge of the Moesa, the new Route of the Bernardino joins the superb High-road of the Canton of the Tessin, which ter- minates at the base of S. Gothard. Travellers, during summer, may reach the High-road to Mi- lan, by going from Bellinzone to Magadino on the Lago Maggiore ; whence (the season permitting), a Steam-boat starts every Thurs- day, Friday, Saturday, Sunday, and Monday morning, at six o’clock, for Sesto-Calende ; where it arrives about noon. The price paid by a Chief- cabin Passenger, -COMO. [ch.xv. in this vessel, from Magadino to Sesto, is six Italian livres ; the charge for the transport of a Ber- lin or English Post-chaise, is fifty livres ; and the charge for the transport of a Calc he, forty livres. Travellers may likewise reach the High-road to Milan by means of the Steam-boats (managed by Englishmen), which ply daily on the Lake of Como, 1 the season permitting : and persons who avail themselves of these vessels, embark at La Riva. Another way of reaching the High-road is to go by Lugano , Ponte di Tresa , and Varese , to Sesto . 2 ROUTE FROM COMO, BY THE MONT-SPLUGEN TO ZURICH. (Given on the authority of an English Traveller, who passed this new road in August, 18-i7.) The Steam-packet, managed by Englishmen, conveys Passen- gers and Carriages about thirty- live miles, from Como to Domaso; and usually reaches the latter place atone o’clock, p. m. Small Boats take Passengers thence through the shoals to La Riva j and Boats of a larger size convey travelling Carriages. The distance from La Riva to Chiavenna is about twelve miles; and if the wind be adverse, the Boats employed to bring travelling Carriages from 1 The Lake of Como, anciently called La- cus Larius, is computed to be fifty miles in length; from three to six miles in breadth; and from forty to six hundred feet in depth. This Lake, combined with the Town of Como, anciently. Comnw, forms a beautiful land- scape. Pliny the younger was born at Como; and in the 'front of Lhe Cathedral is his Statue. The distance from Como, through Barlassina to Milan, is three posts and a half. 2 An economical and asafe mode of crossing the Steam-packet to La Riva, seldom arrive till night ; a serious inconvenience ; as La Riva, dur- ing summer, is liable to Mai’ aria, and therefore a dangerous sleep- ing-place. Small four-wheeled chaises may, however, be hired at the Post-house, for nine Aus- trian zwanzigers (buonhomo not inclusive), to convey Travellers to Chiavenna, about an hour’s drive • and the Post-master undertakes to forward travelling carriages from La Riva to Chiavenna. the Mountain of Splugen, is to go under the guidance of the Message}' ; w ho travels every week from Lindau to Milan; and undertakes, for a certain price, to defray all the expenses of the Passage, board and lodging inclusive. But in whatever way Travellers cross this Mountain, they ought not to attempt the Passage during the months of May and June when the winter snow is melting. Several English Families have nearly lost their lives by crossing in June. CI1. XV.] ROUTE FROM COMO TO ZURICH. 537 1J> from Chiavenna to Isold — A horse. 2 Splugen — A third horse. The drive from Chiavenna to Splugen occupies eight hours. Tusis. if Coire — The drive from Splu- gen to Coire occupies seven hours and a half. Bourg-de-Ragaz — Two hours and a half. \j Wallenstatt — Four hours. At Wallenstatt the Post is dis- continued : but good Boats and careful Boatmen may usually he found to convey Travellers down the picturesque Lake o/JVallen- statt, (which is twelve miles in length), to Wesen , where Voi- turinsare always ready to furnish horses for Rapperschwyl, beauti- fully situated on the Lake of Zurich. This drive occupies about four hours and a half ; and that from Rapperschwyl to Zurich about five hours. The new road, during the month of August, 1827, was free from snow, safe, and in good order; and La Couronne , at Chi- avenna— La Poste, at Splugen — La Croix blanche , at Coire — Le Sauvage, at Bourg-de-Ragaz — La Poste, at Wallenstatt — VE- pee, at Wesen, and Le Paon, at Rapperschwyl, were considered by the Traveller from whose jour- nal this Route is an extract, as comfortable Inns. I . t