CHROME COLOURS FOR WOOL CASSELLA COLOR COMPANY ' • ) 182 and 184 Front Street, NEW YORK. Boston: 39 Oliver Street, Philadelphia: 126 and 128 South Front Street. Providence: 64 Exchange Place. Atlanta: 47 North Pryor Street. Mont re al, C anada >59,W!|liam Street. No. 8157 Franklin Institute Library PHILADELPHIA Class L.L.. BookS.r...7^j.A. 3'sy A ccession.£.S.3f.J.3.... REFERENCE GIVEN BY ■ „ v , = MANUFACTURE LYONNAISE DE MATIERES COLORANTES, LYONS. Works ”La Mouche". RUSSIAN ANILINE COLOUR WORKS LEOPOLD CASSELLA & C°, RIGA. Works at Riga. LEOPOLD CASSELLA & C°, G.m.b.H., FRANKFORT o. M. Works at Mainkur near Frankfort o. Chrome Colours for Wool Cassella Color Company 182 AND 184 FRONT STREET NEW YORK. BOSTON : 39, OLIVER STREET PHILADELPHIA: 12R AND 128 SOUTH FRONT STREET PROVIDENCE: si Ei^riANiAi pi,ape; ATLANTA-; 4T NO^T 3 .STRDEji i J * i j * MONTREAL, CANADA, 59 WILLIAM STREET No. 3157. 1910 PUBLISHED BY CASSELLA COLOR COMPANY, NEW YORK. c c C PREFACE. Since the publication of our book on “Wool Dyeing” we have brought out a considerable number of Chrome Colours which have proved of excellent service for the production of fast shades on wool. The “Chromate Process” which we have in the meantime introduced and described already in Volume II of our “Manual of Dyeing” having gained immensely in import- ance, we have thought it well to go carefully again into the subject of producing fast colours on wool, and in the present work on the Chrome Colours for Wool we are now presenting a full description of our most important dyestuffs for dyeing fast shades on wool together with a synopsis of the methods of their application and their special properties. This volume also contains details regarding the production of the different shades on various kinds of material. Like our earlier publications, this work has been prepared with the greatest care on the basis of practical experience, and we trust that it will prove equally useful. N E W Y 0 R K , January 1910. CASSELLA COLOR COMPANY. Chrome Colours for Wool Page Dyestuffs for Dyeing Chromed Wool 2 Directions for Dyeing Chromed Wool 3 Dyestuffs for the After-Chroming Method 4 Directions for Dyeing by the After-Chroming Method 5 Dyestuffs suitable for the Chromate Method 6 Directions for Dyeing by the Chromate Method 7 Shading Products 8 The Application of the Various Methods 9 Dyeings of the Chrome Colours with a Synopsis of their Properties and Methods of Application 11—41 Dyestuffs for the Production of the Various Shades for A. Loose Wool 45 — 54 B. Slubbing and Yarn 55 — 65 C. Military and other Uniform Cloths 66— 76 D. Piece-Dyeing 77 — 90 E. Machine-Dyeing 91— 98 F. Shoddy 99 — 109 G. Vigoureux Printing 110 — 117 H. Hat Dyeing 118—126. Chrome Colours for Wool. The Chrome Colours used for dyeing fast shades on wool are fixed with chrome according to one or other of the following three methods: a) The older Method of Dyeing on Chromed Wool. The wool is first mordanted with chrome, the Chrome Colours being then dyed on the mordanted wool. b) The After-Chroming Process. The wool is first dyed with Chrome Colours, which are then fixed with bichrome. c) The Chromate Process. The wool is dyed straightaway with the bichrome added to the dyebath. In the tables on page 12 and following pages will be found particulars of the suitability of the individual dyestuffs for these three methods of fixing. Dyestuffs for Dyeing* Chromed Wool, Anthracene Yellow C Powder and Paste * Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, WS, WG Anthracene Acid Brown B * Anthracene Chrome Blue RRW extra Powder and Paste Anthracene Chrome Blue BW extra Powder and Paste Anthracene Acid Blue RR Powder and Paste Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra. The products marked with an asterisk (*) are best dissolved by mixing with half their weight of ammonia and adding hot water to this mixture. The following products are likewise suited for dyeing chromed, wool, and are especially well adapted for pale and medium shades; when dyeing deep shades it is well to after- chrome them, subsequent to dyeing on chromed wool, in order to ensure best fastness to alkalies and milling. Anthracene Yellow BN, RN, R, GG Anthracene Acid Brown G, R, N Anthracene Chrome Brown D, DW, DWN, SWN Anthracene Chromate Brown ER, 3G Anthracene Chromate Grey G Diamine Fast Red F Anthracene Chrome Red A, G Anthracene Chrome Blue R, B, BB, G, F, FR Anthracene Acid Blue EB, ER Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chromate Violet XB Anthracene Chrome Violet B When dyeing in polished copper ves- sels or machines, the dyebath heated to about 50° C. (120 deg. F.) is first charged with 0.5 % sulpho- cyanide of ammonia (of the weight of the wool;, stirred well, and allowed to stand for 20 minutes before adding the dyestuff and acid. Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Acid Black DSF Anthracene Chrome Black PPS extra. 2 Directions for Dyeing Chromed Wool. The wool is mordanted at the boil for 1 to 134 hours with bichromate of potash or bichromate of soda and the addition of one of the customary assistants (tartaric acid, lactoline, lignorosine, etc.) The mordant used most frequently consists of 3 % bichrome and 2,5 % tartar; for particularly deep shades this is increased to 4 % bichrome and 3 % tartar, but for pale shades the percentages are to advantage reduced, only 1 % bichrome and 1 % tartar for instance being used for very pale shades. After the mordanting, the wool should if possible be rinsed. Carbonised goods are best neutralised before the mor- danting, because the results obtained with the bichrome and sulphuric acid mordant are less satisfactory. The dyeing is done in fresh baths with the addition of 1 — 3 % acetic acid or 5 % acetate of ammonia * (which should be used especially in the case of very light shades and of material which it is difficult to dye level or to penetrate). Enter the mordanted and rinsed material at 40 — 50° C. (105 — 120 deg. F.), raise in about 24 hour to the boil, and boil for 124 to 2 hours; after % to 1 hour’s boiling, some acetic acid or formic acid is added, if necessary, in order to exhaust the baths. For details regarding the subsequent shading of the dyeings see page 8. * Acetate of ammonia is prepared by mixing: 10 oz ammonia (0.913 sp. g. or 24 %) and 26*4 oz acetic acid (8° Tw. or 30 %). This solution should be neutral and should not change blue or red litmus paper to any extent. 3 Dyestuffs for the After-Chroming* Process. Group A. Products to be dyed with sulphuric acid or acetic acid. Anthracene Yellow BN, RN, GG Anthracene Acid Brown G Anthracene Chrome Brown D, DW, SWN Anthracene Chrome Red A * Anthracene Chrome Violet B * Anthracene Chrome Blue R, B, BB, G, F Azo Chrome Blue T, TB, AI * Anthracene Acid Black SR, SA, SBB, SRG Anthracene Acid Black SAS, SASG, SASB, SASN. Group B. Products to be dyed with acetic acid. Anthracene Yellow C Powder and Paste, R Anthracene Acid Brown R, N, B Anthracene Chrome Brown DWN Diamine Fast Red F Anthracene Chrome Red G * Anthracene Chrome Blue FR * Anthracene Acid Blue EB, ER * Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Blue Black C Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chrome Black F, FE, FR Anthracene Chrome Black 5B, KM, PF extra, PFB extra, PFR extra, PFBB extra Anthracene Chrome Black PPN extra, PPC extra * Anthracene Chrome Black P extra, PR extra, PPS extra Anthracene Acid Black ST Anthracene Acid Black DSN, DSF, DSFB, DNG Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, ER, WS, WG, 3G and all the products enumerated under Group A. * When dyeing the products marked with an asterisk (*) in bright polished copper vessels or machines, the bath heated to 50° C. (120 deg. F.) is first charged with sulphocyanide of ammonia (of the weight of the wool), stirred well, and left standing for 20 minutes before adding Glauber’s salt, acid and dyestuff. 4 Directions for Dyeing by the After-Chroming Process. Dyeing with Sulphuric Acid. Charge the bath with 1 — 4 % sulphuric acid, according to the depth of shade to he dyed, and with the requisite quantities of dyestuff; enter the well scoured wool at about 50° C. (120 deg. F.), raise in 20 to 30 minutes to the boil, and continue boiling for 1 hour. Then cool off, and treat for % hour at the boil with one-half to two-thirds the quantity of bichrome as of dyestuff used. As a rule, the same quantity of sulphuric acid as of dye- stuff is used, but not less than 1 % and not more than 4 %, or for Blacks 5 % ; for Anthracene Chrome Brown D and SWN, however, not more than 3 % sulphuric acid should be used. In the case of Azo Chrome Blue, 1% sulphuric acid is added together with the bichrome, the blue being developed by one hour’s boiling. Dyeing with Acetic Acid. Charge the bath with 10 % Glauber’s salt, 2 — 3 % acetic acid and the requisite quantities of dyestuff; enter the well scoured wool at 45 — 50° C. (110 — 120 deg. F.). raise in 20 to 30 minutes to the boil, and exhaust the bath after about X A hour’s boiling by the gradual addition of 1 — 4 % sulphuric acid. Then cool off, and chrome for X A to % hour at the boil with one-half to two-thirds the quantity of bi chrome as of dyestuff used. For Blacks, the dyeing may be started at 70° C. (160 deg. F.) and the bath be brought to the boil at once. Of bichrome, only one-third the weight of dyestuff is as a rule used for chroming black dyeings. When dyeing in calcareous water, the bath must, in the case of Anthracene Chrome Black F, FE and FB, be charged first with 2 % oxalate of ammonia* before adding the dyestuff and acid. Regarding the subsequent shading of the dyeings see page 8. * Oxalate of ammonia, commercially pure, can be bought or be easily prepared by dissolving 1 lb oxalic acid in 1 gallon of hot water, and neutralising this solution with about 18 oz ammonia of 0.913 sp. gr. The solution should not change either blue or red litmus paper and contains about 1^4 lbs oxalate of ammonia crystals. 5 — Dyestuffs suitable for the Chromate Process. Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, WS, WG. The solubility of these brands is improved by mixing the dyestuff with half its weight of ammonia, hot water being then poured over the mixture. Anthracene Chromate Brown ER, 3G Anthracene Chromate Grey G Anthracene Chromate Blue XR, LC, MRB, MGG, LRR Anthracene Chromate Violet XB Anthracene Chromate Green B, FF, KFF extra Anthracene Chromate Yellow GG, M, KL Anthracene Chromate Red 6R, Y Anthracene Chromate Black D, STW Anthracene Blue Black C Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE. Directions for Dyeing by the Chromate Process. The dyestuffs must be added to the dyebath in a well dissolved state. Boil up the bath, cool off, add the requisite quantity of bichrome (about half the weight as of dyestuff used), and 3 — 4% magnesium sulphate in the case of soft water, entering the well scoured material at about 70 — 75° C. (160 — 170 deg. F.). Work the goods for some time at this temperature, raise to the boil, and dye boiling for IK to 2 hours. In the case of pale and medium shades, the bath is then sufficiently exhausted; for deep shades it is recommended, after one hour’s boiling, to gradually add to the bath 1 — 3% acetic acid, well diluted. Material which is difficult to dye level (loose wool, etc.) is to advantage dyed with the addition of 3 — 4 % Universal oil FD or Monopole soap; this addition is likewise useful for yarns which show a tendency to felt. Dyestuff and bichrome should be dissolved separately, the latter being added to the bath just before entering the goods. Regarding the subsequent shading see page 8. 7 Shading* Products. For subsequently shading the colours produced on chromed wool or by the after-chroming or the chromate process, the same Chrome Colours are usually employed which were used for the dyeing proper. This is also the case if the colours have already been fixed or chromed on the fibre. This applies particularly to loose material. The dyebath is first cooled off to some extent, whereupon the dyestuff is added well dissolved and in a diluted form, the bath being brought again gradually to the boil and boiling being continued for 20 to 30 minutes. If larger quantities of the Anthracene Colours (more than one-fourth of the quantity used at first) are employed for the subsequent shading, they should be fixed again with a little bichrome in order to ensure best possible fastness to milling; in the case of smaller quantities, this subsequent chroming may be omitted. The chromed dyeings may on the other hand also very well be shaded subsequently with Acid Colours possessing good fastness to milling, of which the following may be mentioned: Brilliant Milling Green B Formyl Blue B Brilliant Milling Blue B Tetra Cyanole A Formyl Violet, all brands Milling Yellow 0 Wool Bed B. When shading, the bath should be cooled off slightly before adding the well dissolved dyestuff. For yarn, and particularly for piece-goods, easily levelling colours are frequently used for the subsequent shading and may be added straightaway to the boiling liquor. The following are the most suitable for this purpose: Tetra Cyanole V Cyanole extra, FF Cyanole Fast Green G Cyanole Green B, 6G Acid Yellow AT Orange GG Azo Orseille BB Acid Violet 6BC. 8 The Application of the Various Methods. The question as to which of the three methods should be applied in practice must be solved in accordance with the nature of the material to be dyed and the dyeing plant available. The following remarks may generally serve as a guide in this respect: Dyeing on Chromed Wool is generally given the preference for piece-goods, except in the case of Blacks. This method is preferred also for loose wool or yarns when these materials still contain fatty impurities, which are less disturbing when chroming first than they may do if any other process is employed. It is always best however to see that the goods are well scoured before dyeing. For shoddy goods which are stripped previously with bichrome and acid, dyestuffs which can be dyed on chromed wool are likewise preferred, because the stripping acts simultaneously as mordanting; deep shades are then in most cases advantage- ously subjected to a slight after-chroming. This method is likewise given the preference for ready- milled soft or stiff hats, especially when dyeing such mode colours as can be shaded fairly easily on a chrome mordant. The After-Chroming Method is generally applied in the dyeing of loose wool, slubbing, yarn, and frequently also for piece-goods, especially when producing black, blue and brown shades, blacks being dyed almost exclu- sively by this method. Mode shades are in a like manner mostly dyed by this method by reason of the simpler method of working. The same method is as a rule given the preference for dyeing slubbing, worsted yarn, cops, or cheeses in dyeing machines. For piece-goods, the after -chroming method offers also the advantage of staining cotton effect threads the least. Shoddy is in most instances dyed by this method, the acid remaining in the; gqods^oyer frojn ibe: catbee our book on “Wool Dyeing”, pages 66-75, and the Supplements thereto. 17 Chrome Colours Dyestuff 13 Anthracene Add Brown G pat. 2% 4°/g_ Dyed by the after-chroming process. The same shades are obtained by the chrom- ate process. May be dyed on Chromed Wool by the After- by the Chromate chroming Process Process Good only in light and medium shades ; for deep shades a slight after- chroming Is necessary in order to better fix the colour. Very good Good To be Loose Wool 3-4 bing 14 Anthracene Acid Brown R pat. 2% 4% Same as Anthra- cene Acid Very good Brown G Good 2-3 2-3 3-4 Dyed by the after-chroming process. The same shades, only slightly lighter, are obtained by the chromate process. 15 Anthracene Acid Brown N pat. 2 °/o 4% Same as Anthracene Acid Brown R. 16 Anthracene Acid Brown B pat. 2 % 4 % Dyed by the after-chroming process. On chromed wool somewhat fuller shades are obtained, and by the chromate process slightly lighter shades. Good Very good Good 3-4 Very good Good 3 * 4 = Very good. 3 = Good. For full particulars of fastness to light and milling, and other properties, 18 for Wool. used for * Remarks Piece- Goods Cloth with Effect Threads of Cotton Silk Shod- dy Knit- ting Yarn Ma- chine Dye- ing Hats Vigou- reux Print- ing 4 1 1 4 4 4 4 3 Anthracene Acid Brown G is the most yellowish brown of the An- thracene Acid Colour group. It is distinguished for its good levelling property and is used for the production of yellowish brown dye- ings and other mode shades, and particularly also for shading mili- tary grey, so-called “field grey”. 4 2 1 1 2 CO 1 1 2 Yields dyeings of very good fast- ness to light. It is used only for articles which are not subjected to severe alkaline milling. The product has proved particu- larly useful in piece-dyeing for pro- ducing brown shades fast to light and milling. 3 2 1 3-4 3 3 1 3 These two products belong to the best covering of the cheaper dyestuffs. Their dyeings are exceed- ingly fast to milling, but in fastness to light they are not equal to the Anthracene Chrome Browns. They are used largely also for the dyeing of shoddy, particularly the “B” brand. Their dyeings are very fast to steaming and carbon- ising. 2 2 1 Tt< 1 CO 3 3 1 3-4 2 = Satisfactory. 1 = Unsatisfactory. see our book on “Wool Dyeing”, pages 66—75, and the Supplements thereto. 19 Chrome Colours Dyestuff May be dyed Chromed Wool Yfter? by,he chroming Chromate Process Process To be Loose Wool Stub- bing 17 Anthracene Chrome Brown D pat. ,40/p. Dyed by the after-chroming process. Good only in light shades; in medium and deep shades a slight after- chroming is necessary in order to better fix the colour. Very good Not suitable 18 Anthracene Chrome Brown DW 2°/o~ 40/0 Very good Dyed by the after-chroming process. Not suitable 3-4 3—4 19 Anthracene Chrome Brown DWN 2 0/0 4 % Dyed by the aft«r.chroming process. The same shades are obtained on chromed wool and by the chromate process. May be dyed in light and medium shades on chromed wool ; in deep shades, after- chroming is necessary for the better fixation of the colour. Very good Not suitable 3-4 3—4 20 Anthracene Chrome Brown SWN pat. 2 0/0 4 °/o Dyed by the after-chroming process. The same dyeings are obtained on chromed wool. Very good Not suitable * 4 = Very good. 3 = Good. For full particulars of fastness to light and milling, and other properties, 20 for Wool. lused fop * Remarks Piece- Goods Cloth with Effect Threads of Cotton | Silk . I Knit- j ^. a_ Shod- .. 1 chine dv I g ! Dye- y | Yarn in g Hats Vigou- reux Print- ing 4 2—3 1 4 4 4 4 4 Anthracene Chrome Brown D occupies the same position among the Chrome Browns as Anthracene Yellow BN among the Chrome Yellows, being the typical best levelling product. It is used most extensively on loose wool, slubbing, yarn and piece-goods, for brown shades and especially also for the many brownish mode shades, for “ Field Grey ”, etc. The fastness to milling and light is excellent. 3 2 1 4 3 1 CO 3 3 Anthracene Chrome Brown DW comes in the first place into con- sideration for producing brown shades; more recently it is fre- quently substituted by the “ DWN ” brand. 3 2 1 4 3 ! CO I CO 4 Does not possess quite the same excellent levelling property as An- thracene Chrome Brown D, but may still be used very well for producing medium and deep mode shades. Dyed with acetic acid and after-chromed, its dyeings possess excellent fast- ness to milling, light, and steaming. 4 3 2 4 .4 4 3 4 Besides its good levelling pro- perty, Anthracene Chrome Brown SWN offers the special advantage of a very fine shade. Dyed direct, it yields deep brown shades with a yellow tone so frequently in demand nowadays. It may at the same time be used for the production of mode shades also in machines. It is best dyed with acetic acid, and after-chromed. The dyeings pos- sess the same fastness to milling and light as those of Anthracene Chrome Brown D. = Satisfactory. 1 = Unsatisfactory. iee our book on “Wool Dyeing”, pages 66— 75, and the Supplements thereto. 21 Cluronae Colours Dyestuff May be dyed Chromed by the After- , chroming Wool j Process by the Chromate Process To be Loose Slub- Wool bing Yarn 21 Anthracene Chromate Brown EB 1 0/o 2 o/o Very good Dyed by the chromate process. When dyed on chromed wool, somewhat deeper shades are obtained, whereas, when dyed by the after-chroming process, the same shades are obtained as by the chromate process. 22 Anthracene Chromate Brown ER i Good Dyed by the chromate process. On c h r o m ed wool, slightly deeper shades and by the after-chroming process, slightly lighter shades are obtained. Very good Very good Good Very good 23 Anthracene Chromate Brown WSpat. 2 °/o 4°/o Very good Very good Very good Same as Anthracene Chromate Brown EB. 24 Anthracene Chromate Brown WG pat. 2 % 4 % Very good Very good Same as Anthracene Chromate Brown E B. Very good * 4 = Very good. 3 = Good. For full particulars of fastness to light and milling, and other properties, 22 for Wool used for * Remarks f Piece- 1 Goods Cloth with 1 Effect Threads Shod- of dv ! ting Cotton) Silk | Yarn Ma- chine Dye- ing Hats Vigou- reux Print- ing 4 1 1 3 4 4 3—4 4 These four dyestuffs belong to the same group, and are distinguish- ed for their property of being fixable by any of the three methods of chroming. They may equally well be dyed on chromed wool and by the after-chroming process, and yield especially good results when dyed by the chromate process. Dyeings produced by any of the three methods are of excellent fastness to light and milling. Anthracene Chromate Brown EB and ER yield the deepest brown shades and possess approximately double the tinctorial power of the other products. Anthracene Chromate Brown ER dyes a redder and even more covered shade than the EB brand. Anthracene Chromate Brown WS yields a much brighter brown, and the WG brand likewise a very bright brown with a yellow cast. The Anthracene Chromate Browns belong to the browns of best fast- ness to light, and are not surpassed in either fastness to steaming or acids by any other brown Chrome Colour. 4 2 1 3 4 4 3 3 4 | 2 1 3 4 4 1 00 4 4 2 1 3 4 4 3—4 4 2 = Satisfactory. 1 = Unsatisfactory. see our book on “Wool Dyeing”, pages 66— 75, and the Supplements thereto. 23 Chrome Colours Dyestuff 25 Anthracene Chrome Blue R pat. Dyed by the after-chroming method. On chromed wool it yields dyeings of a somewhat brighter, by the chromate pro- cess dyeings of a somewhat paler, shade. 26 Anthracene Chrome Blue B pat. 2 o/o 4% Same as Anthracene Chrome Blue R. 27 Anthracene Chrome Blue BB pat. 2 o/o 4% Dyed by the after-chroming method. Dyeings on chromed wool are of a slightly brighter shade. 28 Anthracene Chrome Blue Q pat. 2 °/o 4 % Same as Anthracene Chrome Blue BB. May be dyed on Chromed Wool Very good in light and medium shades ; deep shades must be fixed with a little bichrome. by the After- chroming Process by the Chromate Process Very good Good Very good Very good Good Not suitable Same as Very An ‘ good thracene Chrome Blue R Not suitable To b( Loose Slub- Wool bing 3-4 3-4 3-4 3-4 * 4 = Very good. 3 = Goo For full particulars of fastness to light and milling, and other properties 24 for Wool. used for * Piece- Goods Cloth with Effect Threads of Cotton | Silk Shod- dy Knit- ting Yarn Ma- chine Dye- ing Hats Vigou- reux Print- ing Remarks 4 4 4 4 4 4 3 4 Is chiefly dyed by the after- chroming method and is the blue the most largely used by this me- thod of dyeing. It is especially distinguished by its deep shade and eminent fastness to milling and light. On piece-goods Anthracene Chrome Blue R is likewise dyed on chromed wool, offering in this case the advantage of leaving cotton and silk effects perfectly unstained. 4 4 2-3 4 4 4 3 4 Possesses the same properties and commands the same scope of application as Anthracene Chrome Blue R. Its dyeings are somewhat brighter and do not appear reddish in artificial light. 4 1 CO 1-2 4 4 4 4 4 Anthracene Chrome Blue BB belongs likewise to the group of the Anthracene Chrome Blue R. Be- sides for blues, it is used frequent- ly for dyeing olives, browns and mode shades. 4 2-3 1 4 4 4 4 4 Is the most greenish of the Anthracene Chrome Blue series and is distinguished by very good levelling power. It is used exten- sively for producing blue, greenish blue and mode shades. On loose wool and yarn it is principally dyed by the after-chroming method, but on piece-goods frequently also on chromed wool, levelling very well on mordanted i cool. 2 = Satisfactory. 1 = Unsatisfactory. see our book on “Wool Dyeing”, pages 66—75, and the Supplements thereto. 25 Chrome Colours May be dyed To be Dyestuff on j Chromed Wool by the After- I chroming Process by the Chromate Process Loose Wool Stub- bing L Yarn 29 Anthracene Chrome Blue F pat. ;,a2% 4°/o May be used for the direct dyeing Very Not suitable 4 4 4 of light shades ; in the case of medium and dark shades the dyeings must be good Dyed by the after-chroming method. On chromed wool somewhat brighter dyeings are obtained. fixed sub- sequently with bichrome 30 Anthracene Chrome Blue FR 20/a 4°/o Same as Very Not 3-4 4 4 cene Chrome Blue F good suitable Same as Anthracene Chrome Blue F. 31 Anthracene Chrome Blue BW extra Powder pat. l,5o/o 30/0 Very good Not suitable Not very well suited 4 . 4 4 U§j * Dyed on chromed wool. 32 Anthracene Chrome Blue RR W extra Powder pat. Very Not Good 4 4 4 Dyed on chromed mate process some obtained. [wool. Bythechro- what paler shades are good suitable * 4 = Very good. 3 = Good. For full particulars of fastness to light and milling, and other properties, 26 for W ool. \ used for * Remarks : Piece- 1 Goods Cloth with EffectThreads Shod- of I dy Cotton Silk Knll ~ ! chine ting Dye- Hats Yarn Ing Vigou- reux Print- ing 4 ! _ 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 Of all the after-chroming blues, Anthracene Chrome Blue F yields the brightest shade, being noted for eminent fastness to light and milling and for very good levelling properties. It is used very exten- sively especially for dyeing slub- bing and piece-goods. It does not stain effect threads. I 4 4 2 4 4 4 3 3 Has a somewhat more purplish shade than Anthracene Chrome Blue F and is therefore especially well suited for producing reddish blue and dark blue shades. 4 2 1 2 3 4 1 1 CO These two products differ in so far from our other Anthracene Chrome Blues as they are used for dyeing on chromed wool only. On previously mordanted loose wool, hanks, or piece-goods, they yield intense blue shades of eminent y fastness to milling and light. Both products are marketed both in powder and paste form. For dissolving the powder products, it is recommended to mix the dye- stuff first with some ammonia (about half the weight of the dye- stuff) and then to pour hot water over this mixture. 1 4 2 1 2 3 4 1 1 CO 2 = Satisfactory. 1 = Unsatisfactory. see our book on “Wool Dyeing”, pages 66-75, and the Supplements thereto. 27 Chrome Colours Dyestuff May be dyed on Chromed Wool by the After- chroming Process by the Chromate Process To be Loose Wool Stub- bing 33 Anthracene Acid Blue ER pat. 2 »/o 40/0 Dyed by the after-chromingmethoi On chromed wool somewhat brighter dyeings are obtained. 34 Anthracene Acid Blue EB pat. Same as Anthracene Acid Blue ER. 35 Anthracene Blue Black BE pat. 1,5 0/0 Anthracene Blue Black C pat. 0.75 °! Dyed by the after-chroming method. On chromed wool, somewhat more bluish shades, by the chromate process the same, shades are obtained. Can be dyed to good ad- vantage in light and medium shades : in deep shades the dyeings must be subse- quently fixed with some bichrome Same as An- thracene Acid Blue ER Good Dyed by the after-chroming method. Dyeings produced on chromed wool are a little more bluish. Fixed very well on chromed wool In light and medium shades Very good Not suitable Very good Very good Very good Not suitable Not suitable Very good * 4 = Very good. 3 = Good For full particulars of fastness to light and milling, and other properties 28 for W ool. used fop * Remarks Piece- Goods Cloth with Effect Threads of Cotton Silk Shod- dy Knit- ting Yarn Ma- chine Dye- ing 1 Vlgou- reux Hats Prlnt _ I ing 4 1 CO 1 4 4 4 3 4 Anthracene Acid Blue ER and EB serve in the first place for the production of blue dyeings of good fastness to milling and light , and especially for medium and deep blue Indigo shades. The dyeings of both products offer the advantage of yielding a nitric acid test similar to Indigo. The EB brand yields a slightly more bluish, the ER brand a somewhat more purplish, shade; the two products may be used in com- bination with each other. 4 1 CO 1 4 4 4 3 4 4 3—4 2 4 4 4 3 4 Not quite equal to Anthracene Blue Black C in point of levelling, but very serviceable for shading purposes, especially owing to its eminent fastness to light, even in pale shades. Besides for mode and grey shades, it is frequently also used in combination with other black dyestuffs for producing bluish black shades. 4 2 1 4 4 4 4 4 Anthracene Blue Black C pos- sesses excellent levelling properties, and is used to advantage as a shad- ing product for all kinds of mode and other dull shades on loose wool, piece-goods, slubbing, or yarn, and also in machine-dyeing. The dyestuff is not sensitive to copper and may also be dyed in iron vessels. 2 = Satisfactory. 1 = Unsatisfactory. 3ee our book on “Wool Dyeing”, pages 66-75, and the Supplements thereto. 29 Chrome Colours Dyestuff 37 Anthracene Chromate Red Y 1,5 % _ , 3 °/jg. May be dyed on Chromed Wool by the After- chroming Process by the Chromate Process Anthracene Chromate Violet XB Dyed by the chromate process. The after-chroming method y ields the same shades. Good in light and medium shades. In deep shades a light after- chroming is required 39 Anthracene Chromate Blue XR pat. 2 °/o 4°A Dyed by the chromate process. After-chromed dyeings show the same shade ; dyeings on chromed wool are some- what brighter. 40 Anthracene Chromate Grey G Dyed by the chromate process. On chromed wool and by the after- chroming method more purplish shades are obtained. Same as An- thracene Chromate Violet XB Good Good Very good To be Loose Wool Stub- bing Good Very good Good Very good Good Very good * 4 = Very good. 3 = Good For full particulars of fastness to light and milling, and other properties, 30 for Wool. used for * Remarks Piece- Goods Cloth with Effect Threads of Cotton | Silk . I Knit- t \ ,ln * y | Yarn Ma- chine Dye- ing Hats Vigou- reux- Print- ing 3 2-3 Tj< I CO 3 1 CO 3 1 3 This product produces brilliant shades of red of good fastness , and is used especially for the production cf madder red shades. It is also used as a shading product by the after-chroming process as well as on a chrome bottom and for chrom- ate process dyeings. 4 | 3 1 CO 3 4 4 3-4 to CO Anthracene Chromate Violet XB is especially serviceable when dyed by the chromate process end is used chiefly for the production of violet and prune shades, and for shading purposes. Sillc effects are not stained by this product. 4 3-4 3 4 4 4 2 3 This blue is of very good fast- ness to milling, etc., and excels in fastness to light. It is used by the chromate process as a shading and saddening product and also with Anthracene Blue Black C, and is especially suited for deep shades, because of its low cost. When dyeing in soft or distilled water, the bath should be charged with S — k % magnesium sulphate, which effects a better exhaustion and a deeper shade. 4 4 1 CO 3 4 4 3 4 Anthracene Chromate Grey G is exceedingly fast to light and also very good in other properties of fastness. Because of its good levelling quality it serves both for greys and especially as a saddening product for all mode colours, olives and browns. When dyeing in bright copper vessels by the after-chroming me- thod, the bath should first be charg- ed with some sulphocyanide of ammonia before adding the dyestuff. 2 = Satisfactory. 1 — Unsatisfactory. see our book on “Wool Dyeing”, pages 66 —75, and the Supplements thereto. 31 Chrome Colours Dyestuff May be dyed on Chromed Wool by the After- chroming Process by the Chromate Process To be Loose Wool Stub- bing Yarn 41 Anthracene Chromate Green B pat. 3% 4°/o Dyed by the chromate process. Dyeings produced on chromed wool or by the after-chroming method turn out a trace more bluish. Good In light and medium shades. In deep shades a light after- chroming is required Good 42 Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra pat. 1,5 % 3 °/o Good Same as Anthracene Chromate Green B. Very good Very good 3-4 Very good 43 Alizarine Brilliant Green G pat. 1,5 o/o 3 °/o Very good Very good Dyed by the after-chroming process. The same shades are obtained on chromed wool and when dyeing by the chromate process. ___ 44 Azo Chrome Blue T Very good Very good Not suitable 3-4 Dyed by the after-chroming process. * 4 = Very good. 3 = Good.: For full particulars of fastness to light and milling, and other properties,; 32 Hats Vigou- reux Print- ing Remarks 1 3-4 Anthracene Chromate Oreen B possesses very good fastness to light and is excellently suited for the production of green , olive and mode shades. It is especially used for piece-dyeing and for stubbing, but is less suitable for dyeing loose wool and yarn. When dyed in copper vessels by the after-chroming method, the bath should first be charged with some sulphocyanide of ammonia. This brand is still faster to light than Anthracene Chromate Oreen B and also superior in levelling quality. Therefore it may be used on any hind of wool ma- terial both for the production of greens, and as shading product for olives and mode colours. 4 4 When dyed in copper vessels by the after-chroming method, the bath should first be charged with some sulphocyanide of ammonia. Alizarine Brilliant Oreen O possesses eminent fastness to light and alkalies, and is excellent for dyeing self-shades and also as a shading product for greenish mode colours, olives, etc. Alizarine Brilliant Oreen SE possesses the same properties, but 2 yields somewhat more covered shades. Particularly well suited for cheap, fast blues on piece-goods ; it leaves cotton effects unstained and silk shots nearly so. For heavy milling it is not applicable, but it is very useful for dyeing yarn, etc. fast to washing or to light milling. Azo Chrome Blue TB is some- what faster to washing and milling. The greener “AI :> brand also serves for modes, browns and olives on pieces, and particularly well for producing solid shades on goods containing a shoddy filling. 66—75, and the Supplements thereto. 33 Chrome Colours Dyestuff 45 Anthracene Chrome Black F pat. 3 °/o 6«/o Dyed by the after-chroming method. flG Anthracene Chrome Black 5B pat. 3 ®/o 6 o/o , • ' May be dyed on Chromed Wool by the After- chroming . „ Process Process by the Chromate Not suitable Dyed by the after-chromingmethod. 47 Anthracene Acid Black DSF 30/0 5,5% Dyed by the after-chromingprocess. On chromed wool and by the chromate process the same shade is obtained. Anthracene Acid Black DSFB pat. 3 % 5,5 0/0 Very good Dyed by the after-chroming process. Not suitable Very good Not suitable Very good Very good Not suitable Not suitable Loose Slub- Wool bing To be — Onnri. * 4 = Very good. S ^ For full particulars of fastness to light and milling, and other properties, for Wool. used for * 1 Piece- | Goods Cloth with Effect Threads Cotton Silk Shod- dy Knit- ting Yarn Ma- chine Dye- ing Hats Vigou- reux Print- ing Remarks 4 to 1 CO 1 3-4 4 4 3 4 Very generally admitted for military cloth. Its brilliant, bluish black shade cannot be produced exactly with any other black. Excellently suited for machine- dyeing, does not foam, and may be dyed in copper or iron vessels. It possesses good fastness to stoving and is suited for cross- dyeing. Calcareous water should not be used or should be corrected with oxalate of ammonia. Anthracene Chrome Black FE differs from the F brand only by its more covered shade. 4 3 1 4 4 4 4 4 Yields a bluish black with a greenish cast and is chiefly used in combination with other blacks and for producing dark blue and greenish black shades; in properties of fastness it stands on a level with Anthracene Chrome Black F, sur- passing the latter in fastness to potting, thus allowing of application even if high demands are made regarding fastness to potting. 3—4 to 1 CO 1—2 4 4 1 CO 3 i— 1 1 to Is used to a large extent for the dyeing of loose wool and yarn, and less extensively for piece-goods. The product is distinguished by good fastness to milling and light, and ranks with the best dyestuffs also in point of fastness to cross- dyeing. Anthracene Acid Black DSN is another equally important brand, yielding somewhat more covered dyeings. 4 i to 1 CO 1—2 4 4 4 3 2 In its behaviour the product resembles Anthracene Acid Black DSF, but it is superior to the latter in fastness to steaming. Anthracene Acid Black DNG belongs to the same group and yields a considerably more bluish black. Anthracene Acid Black SW is used particularly for the dyeing of loose wool, yielding more covered blacks than the above-named brands. 2 = Satisfactory. 1 = Unsatisfactory. see our book on “Wool Dyeing”, pages 66—75, and the Supplements thereto. - 35 - Chrome Colours Dyestuff May be dyed on Chromed Wool by the After- chroming Process by the Chromate Process To be Loose Slub- Wool bing Yarn Anthracene Chrome Black P extra pat. 3,75 o/o 7,5 % Very good Not suitable Dyed by the after-chroming method. 50 Anthracene Chrome Black PF extra pat. 3,75 o/o 7,5 °/o Very good Not suitable Dyed by the after-chroming method. On chromed wool, the same shade will be obtained. 51 Anthracene Chrome Black PFB extra pat. 3,75 o/o v 7,5% Very good Same as Anthracene Chrome Black PF extra. 52 Anthracene Chrome Black PR extra pat. 3,75 o/o 7,5 % Very good Dyed by the after-chroming method. Not suitable Not suitable * 4 = Very good. 3 = Good. For full particulars of fastness to light and milling, and other properties, - 36 - for Wool. used fop * Remarks | cloth with : Piece- Effect Threads Goods of Cotton Silk 1 Knit 1 Ma * Shod- 1 Chine dv tin g 1 Dye- ° y Yarn ing | Vigou- TT , reux- Hats 1 Print- I ing 3 3 2 4 4 4 2 4 The products of the Anthracene Chrome Black “ P ” series have been adopted extensively , chiefly for producing dyeings fast to milling and potting on loose wool '<> yarns and slubbing. Such dyeings possess also very good fastness to acids, and are therefore used for goods to be cross-dyed. Anthracene Chrome Black P extra is likewise used extensively for Yigoureux Printing. 3-4 3 1 4 4 4 2 2 Possesses the same properties as the “P extra” brand, differing from the same only by its somewhat more covered and deeper shade. Its scope of application is the same; for Yigoureux Printing, “P extra” is given the preference. 4 3 1 4 4 4 i 2 2 Anthracene Chrome Black PFB extra possesses a somewhat more purplish shade than P extra, sur- passing the latter in point of fast- ness to light. A further brand of the same group is Anthracene Chrome Black PFBB extra which possesses a somewhat more bluish shade. 3 3 1 4 4 4 2 3 Behaves in properties of fast- ness exactly like Anthracene Chrome Black P extra, compared with which it is of a more reddish shade, being on this account especially well suit- ed for producing exceptionally deep blacks. 2 = Satisfactory. 1 = Unsatisfactory. see our book on “Wool Dyeing”, pages 66—75, and the Supplements thereto. 37 Chrome Colours Dyestuff May be dyed by the Chromed Wool After- chroming Process by the Chromate Process To be Loose Slub- Wool ! bing Yarn 53 Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra pat. 3,75 %> 7,5 °/o Very good Not suitable Dyed by the after-chroming method. 54 Anthracene Chrome Black PPN extra pat. 3.75 °/o 7.5 %. Very good Dyed by the after-chroming method. Not suitable 3-4 55 Anthracene Chrome Black P PS extra pat. 3,75 o/o 7,5 °/o Dyed by the after-chroming method; on chromed wool the same shade is obtained. 56 Anthracene Chrome Black KM pat. 3 o/o , 6 o/o Dyed by the after-chromingmethod. Very good Not suitable Very good Not suitable * 4 = Very good. 3= Good. For full particulars of fastness to light and milling, and other properties, - 38 - for Wool. used for (S • Piece- Goods Cloth with Effect Threads of Cotton Silk Shod- dy Knit- ting Yarn Ma- chine Dye- ing Hats Vigou- reux Print- ing Remarks 4 3-4 2 4 4 4 3 2 Belongs to a new group of dyestuffs fast to milling and potting, and is distinguished for specially good levelling properties in addition to its eminent fastness to light. It is used not only for blacks and bluish blacks, but also for shading medium and dark mode colours. It yields excellent results in machine- dyeing. 4 4 CO 1 - * he chroming ! Chromate Dyed by the after-chromingmethod. 58 Anthracene Acid Black SR pat. Dyed by the after-chromingprocess. 59 Anthracene Acid Black SAS pat. 2 % 4 o/o. Very good Very good Dyed by the after-chroming process. 60 Anthracene Chromate Black STW pat. 3o/o Not suitable Very good Good Dyed by the chromate process. After- chromed dyeings are slightly more bluish. Not suitable Not suitable Not suitable Very good To h Loose Wool 2-3 3-4 Stub- bing 2-3 3 - * 4 = Very good. 3 = Goo For full particulars of fastness to light and milling and other property 40 ’iece- ioods Cloth with Effect Threads of Cotton | Silk Shod- dy Knit- ting Yarn Ma- chine Dye- ing Hats Vigou- reux- Print- ing Remarks : 4 4 4 2 3 4 3-4 3 Anthracene Acid BlacTc ST is chiefly used for piece-dyeing, yield- ing bluish black dyeings of good fastness to light, alkalies, steaming, and perspiration. It offers the ad- vantage of leaving both cotton and silk effect threads completely un- stained. A somewhat more reddish and deeper brand is Anthracene Acid Black SRT. 4 3-4 2 3-4 4 4 3 4 The product is dyed straight with sulphuric acid, differing in this respect from, the other blacks. It levels very well, possesses very good fastness to milling and light, and is used in the first place for dyeing stubbing, yarn and piece- goods. Anthracene Acid Black SR yields a bluish black; Anthracene Acid Black SRG dyes more greenish blacks, whereas Anthracene Acid Black SRT, as above stated, yields more covered blacks. 3 3 1 4 3 4 2 3 Yields a very bright, greenish black. Special brand for dyeing coloured carbonised shoddy. It penetrates exceedingly well and may be dyed in a very strongly acid bath ; carbonised goods need not be neu- tralised. Is good to milling, and very cheap owing to its simple and reliable method of dyeing. The brands SASG, SASN and SASB are also useful for dyeing carbonised, coloured shoddy. Anthracene Chrome Black 1J/65J is another important brand, fast to milling, for dyeing shoddy. 4 4 4 3 3-4 4 3 3 Anthracene Chromate Black STW is especially well adapted for dyeing piece-goods containing silk effects. Because of its excellent fastness to light and its good levelling quality it may be used both for blacks and greys, and as a shading product for mode colours, browns etc. 2 = Satisfactory. 1 = Unsatisfactory. see our book on “Wool Dyeing”, pages 66—75, and the Supplements thereto. 41 -m 1 I - I ■ ■ Dyestuffs for the Production of the Various Shades - for A. Loose Wool (Pages 45-54) B. Slubbing and Yarn (Pages 55-65) C. Military and other Uniform Cloths (Pages 66 - 76 ) D. Piece-Dyeing (Pages 77-90) E. Machine-Dyeing (Pages 91-98) F. Shoddy (Pages 99-109) G. Vigoureux Printing (Pages 110 117) H. Hat Dyeing (Pages 118-126). A. Dyestuffs for Loose Wool Grey and Mode Shades.* a) For very light Shades, best Levelling: 1. After-Chroming Process: Combinations of Anthracene Yellow BN, RN, GG Anthracene Chrome Brown D. SWN Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chrome Blue G Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Chrome Violet B. 2. Chromate Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Yellow GG, KL Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, ER, 3G Anthracene Chromate Grey G Anthracene Chromate Black D Anthracene Blue Black C. 3. Chromed Wool: Combinations of Anthracene Yellow BN Anthracene Brown D Anthracene Chromate Brown EB Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chrome Red A. b) For Medium and Deep Shades: 1. After-Chroming Process: Combinations of the dyestuffs given under a) 1. and Anthracene Yellow C Anthracene Chrome Brown DWN, DW Anthracene Chromate Brown EB Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Blue BB, F, R Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra. * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. 45 Dyestuffs for Loose Wool. 2. Chromate Process: Combinations of the dyestuffs given under a) 2. and Anthracene Chromate Yellow GG, M Anthracene Chromate Brown WS, WG Anthracene Chromate Bed Y Anthracene Chromate Violet XB Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra saddened if necessary with Anthracene Chromate Black STW. 3. Chromed Wool: Combinations of the dyestuffs given under a) 3. and Anthracene Yellow C Anthracene Chrome Bed G Anthracene Chromate Brown WS, WG Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Blue G, BB Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra saddened if necessary with Anthracene Acid Black DSF. c) Fast to Potting and Cross-Dyeing: After-Chroming Process: Combinations of Anthracene Yellow C Anthracene Chrome Brown D, SWN Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Blue G, BB Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra. d) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE, Brilliant Milling Green B, Tetra Cyanole A, Wool Red B. 46 Dyestuffs for Loose Wool. Brown and Olive.* a) With best possible Fastness to Milling and Light: 1. After-Chroming Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Brown D, DWN, SWN, DW Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, WS, WG Anthracene Yellow BN, BN, C, B, GG Anthracene Chrome Bed A, G Anthracene Blue Black C, BE Anthracene Chrome Blue BB, G, F, B x\nthracene Chrome Violet B Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra. 2. Chromate Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, EB, WS, WG, 3G Anthracene Chromate Yellow M, GG Anthracene Chromate Bed Y Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chromate Grey G Anthracene Chromate Blue XB Anthracene Chromate Violet XB Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE. 3. Chromed Wool: Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, WS, WG Anthracene Yellow C Anthracene Blue Black C, BE Anthracene Chrome Blue G Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra for saddening: Anthracene Acid Black DSF. * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. 47 Dyestuffs for Loose Wool. b) Cheaper Method of Production: 1. After-Chroming Process: Combinations of Anthracene Acid Brown N, B Anthracene Chrome Brown DWN Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, WG, WS Anthracene Yellow C Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra. 2. Chromate Process: Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, EB, WG, WS Anthracene Chromate Yellow M Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Chromate Grey G for saddening: Anthracene Chromate Black STW. c) Fast to Potting and Cross-Dyeing: After-Chroming Process: Anthracene Chrome Brown D, SWN Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Yellow C Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Blue G Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra. d) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Brilliant Milling Green B, Tetra Cyanole A, Wool Red B. 48 Dyestuffs for Loose Wool. Red, Orange and Claret.* a) For Madder Shades on Military Cloths: To be dyed with subsequent chroming: Diamine Fast Red F shaded with Anthracene Yellow C Anthracene Chrome Blue F or Anthracene Chrome Red G. b) For other Reds or Oranges and Clarets with best possible Fastness: 1. After-Chroming Process: Red: Diamine Fast Red F Anthracene Chrome Red G Anthracene Chrome Red A Orange: The above dyestuffs shaded with Anthracene Yellow RN, BN, C, R Claret: The above dyestuffs shaded with Anthracene Chrome Violet B. 2. Chromate Process: Red: Anthracene Chromate Red Y Anthracene Chromate Red 6R Orange: The above dyestuffs shaded with Anthracene Chromate Yellow GG, M Claret: The above dyestuffs shaded with Anthracene Chromate Violet XB. 3. Chromed Wool: The same dyestuffs as indicated for the After-Chroming Process. * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. 49 Dyestuffs for Loose Wool. c) For bright Reds for Shots, Stripes, etc.: 1. To be dyed in an acid bath: With good fastness to milling next to wool and cotton a nd fast to stoving: Milling Red G Rhodamine B (for pink shades) shaded if necessary with Milling Yellow 0 or Formyl Violet S4B. W ith good fastness to milling next to wool: Wool Red B shaded if necessary as indicated above. 2. To be dyed in a neutral bath:** With good fastness to milling next to wool : Diamine Scarlet B, 3Bf Diamine Purpurine Bf, Vf, 3Bf Diamine Bordeaux B, Sf shaded if necessary with Milling Yellow Of or Diamine Yellow CP.f The dyestuffs marked t are fast to stoving. d) Fast to Potting and Cross-Dyeing: After-Chroming Process: Diamine Fast Red F Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Yellow C. e) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Anthracene Yellow, all brands, Formyl Violet S4B, Anthracene Chrome Violet B, Anthracene Chromate Violet XB, Anthracene Acid Blue RR (the latter only on chromed wool). ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing Vol. II (No. 2939), pages 6 and 13. 50 Dyestuffs for Loose Wool. Yellow and Green.* a) With best possible Fastness to Milling and Light: 1. After-Chroming Process: Yellow: Anthracene Yellow GG (fixed with chromium fluoride) Anthracene Yellow BN, RN, C, R. Green: Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra or Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Blue G, BB, F Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Yellow BN, C, GG Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra for saddening: Anthracene Chrome Black 5B, PPC extra. 2. Chromate Process: Yellow: Anthracene Chromate Yellow M, GG, KL Green: Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE or Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chromate Yellow GG Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE for saddening: Anthracene Chromate Black STW. * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. 51 Dyestuffs for Loose Wool. 3. Chromed Wool: Yellow: Anthracene Yellow BN, RN, C, R Green: Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra or Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Blue G, BW extra Anthracene Yellow C, BN, GG Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra for saddening: Anthracene Acid Black DSF. b) For particularly bright Shades: Tobe dyed in an acid bath: ** Yellow: Milling Yellow 0 Green: Alizarine Brilliant Green G Brilliant Milling Green B Tetra Cyanole A in combination if necessary with Milling Yellow O. c) Fast to Potting and Cross-Dyeing: After-Chroming Process: Yellow: Anthracene Yellow C Green: Combinations of Anthracene Yellow C Anthracene Chrome Blue G, BB, F Anthracene Chrome Black 5B, PPC extra. d) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Brilliant Milling Green B, Tetra Cyanole A, Formyl Blue B. Dyeings of Brilliant Milling Green B are turner! a little paler by a severe alkaline treatment, the original shade returning however on souring off subsequently. ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. II (No. 2939). page 6. 52 Dyestuffs for Loose Wool. Blue and Violet.* a) With best possible Fastness to Milling and Light: 1. After-Chroming Process: Anthracene Chrome Blue F, FR, BB, G, R, B Anthracene Acid Blue EB, ER Anthracene Chrome Violet B. 2. Chromed Wool: Anthracene Chrome Blue RRW extra, BW extra. Anthracene Acid Blue RR. [G, R 3. Chromate Process: Anthracene Chromate Blue XR, MGG, MR Anthracene Chrome Blue RRW extra Anthracene Chromate Violet XB. b) Cheaper Method of Production: 1. After-Cliroming Process: Combinations of Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra, PBB, F Anthracene Acid Black DSF, DNG, SBB and Brilliant Milling Blue B Tetra Cyanole A Formyl Blue B Formyl Violet S4B. 2. To be dyed direct with the addition of acetate of ammonia: ** Alphanol Blue BR extra, 5RN, GN. c) For particularly brilliant light Blues and Violets: To be dyed in an acid bath: ** Brilliant Milling Blue B Formyl Blue B Tetra Cyanole A Formyl Violet S4B— 10B. d) Fast to Potting and Cross-Dyeing: To be dyed with subsequent chroming: Anthracene Chrome Blue F, G, BB. e) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Brilliant Milling Blue B, Formyl Blue B, Tetra Cyanole A, Brilliant Milling Green B, Formyl Violet S4B— 10B, Wool Red B. * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol II (No. 2939), pages 6 and 8. 53 Dyestuffs for Loose Wool. Black.* a) With best possible Fastness to Milling, Potting and Light: After-Chroming Process: Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra, PPN extra, PPS extra, P extra, PF extra, PFB extra, PFB extra, PB extra, PFBB extra, 5B. The “PP” brands are eminently fast to light. b) With very good Fastness to Milling and Light: After-Chroming Process: Anthracene Chrome Black F, FE, FB, KM, PBB Anthracene Acid Black DSF, DSN, DSFB, DNG. c) For Goods to be Cross-Dyed: After-Chroming Process:, Anthracene Chrome Black P extra, PF extra, PFB extra Anthracene Chrome Black F, FE, 5B Anthracene Acid Black DSF, DSN. d) For light Milling (with good Fastness to Washing). To be dyed in an acid bath:** Alphanol Black B, BG, 3B, 3BN. e) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Anthracene Yellow, all brands, Anthracene Acid Brown G, Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra, Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE, An- thracene Chrome Bed A, Anthracene Chrome Violet B, Anthracene Chrome Blue F, Anthra- cene Acid Blue EB, ER; Brilliant Milling Blue B, Formyl Violet S4B — 10B, Brilliant Milling Green B, Milling Yellow 0, Wool Red B (the last-mentioned dyestuffs also for acid-dyed Blacks). * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing’’, Vol. II (No. 2939), page 6. 54 B. Dyestuffs for Stubbing and Yarn Grey and Mode Shades.* a) For very light Shades, best Levelling: 1. After-ChromingProcess: Combinations of Anthracene Yellow BN, RN, GG Anthracene Chrome Brown D, SWN Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chrome Blue G Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Chrome Violet B. 2. Chromate Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Yellow GG, M Anthracene Chromate Grey G Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, ER Anthracene Chromate Black D Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chromate Blue MGG Anthracene Chromate Violet XB. 3. Chromed Wool: Combinations of Anthracene Yellow BN Anthracene Chrome Brown D Anthracene Chromate Brown EB Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chrome Red A. b) For medium and deep Shades: 1. After-ChromingProcess: Combinations of the dyestuffs given under a) 1 and Anthracene Chrome Brown DWN, DW Anthracene Chromate Brown EB Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Blue BB, F, R Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra. * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. 55 Dyestuffs for Stubbing and Yarn. 2. Chromate Process: Combinations of the dyestuffs given under a) 2 and Anthracene Chromate Yellow M Anthracene Chromate Brown WS, WG, 3G Anthracene Chromate Red Y Anthracene Chromate Blue XR, MGG Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra saddened if necessary with Anthracene Chromate Black STW. 3. Chromed Wool: Combinations of the dyestuffs given under a) 3 and Anthracene Yellow C Anthracene Chrome Red G Anthracene Chromate Brown WS, WG Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Blue G Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra saddened if necessary with Anthracene Acid Black DSF. c) Fast to Potting and Cross-Dyeing: A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Process: Combinations of Anthracene Yellow C Anthracene Chrome Brown D, SWN Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Blue G Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra. d) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE, Brilliant Milling Green B, Tetra Cyanole A, Wool Red B. 56 Dyestuffs for Stubbing and Yarn. Brown and Olive.* a) With best possible Fastness to Milling and Light: 1. After-Chroming Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Brown D, DWN, SWN, DW Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, WS, WG Anthracene Yellow BN, RN, C, R, GG Anthracene Chrome Red A, G Anthracene Blue Black C, BE Anthracene Chrome Blue BB, G, F, R Anthracene Chrome Violet B Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra. 2. Chromate Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, ER, WS, WG, 3G Anthracene Chromate Yellow GG, M Anthracene Chromate Red Y Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chromate Grey G Anthracene Chromate Blue XR, MGG Anthracene Chromate Violet XB Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE. 3. Chromed Wool: Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, WS, WG Anthracene Yellow C Anthracene Blue Black C, BE Anthracene Chrome Blue G Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra saddened if necessary with Anthracene Acid Black DSF. * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. 57 Dyestuffs for Slubblng and Yarn. b) Cheaper Method of Production: 1. After-Chroming Process: Combinations of Anthracene Acid Brown G, N, B Anthracene Chrome Brown DWN Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, WS, WG Anthracene Yellow C, R Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra. 2. Chromate Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, ER, WS, WG Anthracene Chromate Yellow M Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Chromate Grey G for saddening: Anthracene Chromate Black STW. c) Fast to Potting and Cross-Dyeing: 1. After-Chroming Process: Anthracene Chrome Brown D, SWN Anthracene Yellow C Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Blue G Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra. d) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Brilliant Milling Green B, Tetra Cyanole A, Wool Red B, Diamine Fast Red F. 58 Dyestuffs for Stubbing and Yarn. Red, Orange and Claret.* a) With best possible Fastness to Milling and Light: 1. After-Chroming Process: Red: Diamine Fast Red F Anthracene Chrome Red G Anthracene Chrome Red A Orange: The above dyestuffs shaded with Anthracene Yellow RN, BN, C, R Claret: The above dyestuffs shaded with Anthracene Chrome Violet B. 2. Chromate Process: Red: Anthracene Chromate Red Y, 6R Orange: The above dyestuffs shaded with Anthracene Chromate Yellow M, KL Claret: The above dyestuffs shaded with Anthracene Chromate Violet XB. 3. Chromed Wool: The same dyestuffs as indicated for the After-Chroming Process. b) For bright Reds for effects, stripes, etc.: 1. To be dyedin an acid bath:** With good fastness to milling nex t to wool and cotton and to stoving: Milling Red G Rhodamine B (for pink shades) shaded if necessary with Milling Yellow 0, or Formyl Violet S4B. With good fastness to milling next to wool: Wool Red B shaded if necessary as indicated above. * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. IT (No. 2939), page 6. 59 Dyestuffs for Stubbing and Yarn. 2. To be dyed in a neutral bath: With good fastness to milling next to wool : Diamine Scarlet B, 3Bf Diamine Purpurine Bf, Vt, 3Bf Diamine Bordeaux B, St shaded if necessary with Milling Yellow Of or Diamine Yellow CPf. The dyestuffs marked -j- are fast to stoving. c) Fast to Potting and Cross Dyeing: A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Process: Diamine Fast Red F Anthracene Chrome Bed A Anthracene Yellow C. d) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Anthracene Yellow, all brands, Formyl Violet S4B, Anthracene Chrome Violet B, Anthracene Chromate Violet XB, Anthra- cene Acid Blue RR (the latter only on chromed wool). ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. II (No. 2939), pages 6 and 13. 60 Dyestuffs for Slubbing and Yarn. Yellow and Green.* a) With best possible Fastness to Milling and Light: 1. After-Chroming Process: Yellow: Anthracene Yellow GG (fixed with chromium fluoride) Anthracene Yellow BN, RN, C, R. Green: Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra or Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Blue G, BB, F Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Yellow BN, GG Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra for saddening: Anthracene Chrome Black 5B, PPC extra. 2. Chromate Process: Yellow: Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL, M, GG Green: Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE or Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Anthracene Chromate Blue XR, MGG Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Yellow KL, M Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE for saddening: Anthracene Chromate Black STW. * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. 61 Dyestuffs for Stubbing and Yarn. 3. Chromed Wool: Yellow: Anthracene Yellow BN, RN, C, R Green: Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra or Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Blue G, BW extra Anthracene Yellow C, BN, GG Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra for saddening: Anthracene Acid Black DSF. b) For particularly bright Shades: To be dyed in an acid bath:** Yellow: Milling Yellow 0 Green: Brilliant Milling Green B Tetra Cyanole A in combination with Milling Yellow 0. c) Fast to Potting and Cross-Dyeing: A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Process: Yellow: Anthracene Yellow C Green : Combinations of Anthracene Yellow C Anthracene Chrome Blue G, BB, F Anthracene Chrome Black 5B, PPC extra. d) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Brilliant Milling Green B, Tetra Cyanole A, Formyl Blue B. Dyeings of Brilliant Milling Green B become a little paler by a severe alkaline treatment, the ori- ginal shade returning however on souring off sub- sequently. ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. IT (No. 2939), page 6. 62 Dyestuffs for Stubbing and Yarn. Blue and Violet.* a) With best possible Fastness to Milling and Light: 1. After-Chroming Process: Anthracene Chrome Blue F, FR, BB, G, R, B Anthracene Acid Blue EB, ER Anthracene Chrome Violet B. 2. Chromed Wool: Anthracene Chrome Blue RRW extra, BW extra, Anthracene Acid Blue RR. [G, R 3. Chromate Process: Anthracene Chromate Blue XR, MGG, RRW extra Anthracene Chromate Violet XB. b) Cheaper Method of Production: 1. After-Chroming Process: Azo Chrome Blue T, TB or Combinations of Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra, PPS extra, PBB, F Anthracene Acid Black DSF, DNG, SBB and Brilliant Milling Blue B Tetra Cyanole A Formyl Blue B Formyl Violet S4B. 2. To be dyed direct with the addition of acetate of ammonia:** Alphanol Blue BR extra, 5RN, GN. c) For particularly bright, pale Shades of Blue and Violet: To be dyed in an acid bath:** Brilliant Milling Blue B Formyl Blue B Tetra Cyanole A Formyl Violet S4B— 10B. * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. II (No. 2939), pages 6 and 8. 63 Dyestuffs for Stubbing and Yarn. d) Fast to Potting and Cross-Dyeing: After-Chroming Process: Anthracene Chrome Blue F, G, BB. e) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Brilliant Milling Blue B, Formyl Blue B, Tetra Cyanole A, Brilliant Milling Green B, Formyl Violet S4B— 10B, Wool Red B, Anthracene Chrome Red A, G, Anthracene Blue Black BE. 64 Dyestuffs for Stubbing and Yarn. Black.* a) With best possible Fastness to Milling, Potting and Light: After-Chroming Process: Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra, PPN extra, PPS extra, P extra, PFB extra, PFR extra, PR extra, PFBB extra, 5B. The “PP” brands are eminently fast to light. b) With very good Fastness to Milling and Light, and good Fastness to Potting: To be dyed with subsequent chroming: Anthracene Chrome Black F, FE, FR, KM, PBB Anthracene Acid Black DSF, DSN, DSFB, DNG. c) For light milling, with good fastness to washing, particularly well suited for knitting yarns: To be dyed in an acid bath:** Alphanol Black R, BG, 3B, 3BN. d) Fast to Cross-Dyeing: After-Chroming Process: Anthracene Chrome Black P extra, PF extra, PFB extra Anthracene Chrome Black F, FE, 5B Anthracene Acid Black DSF, DSN. e) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Anthracene Yellow, all brands, Anthracene Acid Brown G, Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra, Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE, Anthracene Chrome Red A, Anthracene Chrome Violet B, Anthracene Chrome Blue F, Anthracene Acid Blue EB, ER; Brilliant Milling Blue B, Formyl Violet S4B — 10B, Brilliant Milling Green B, Milling Yellow 0, Wool Red B (the last-mentioned dyestuffs also for acid-dyed Blacks). * For dyeing directions see page 5. ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. II (No. 2939). page 6. 65 C. Dyestuffs for Military and other Uniform Cloths. Military and other uniform cloths are nearly always dyed in the loose wool. For such material, dyestuffs of particularly good fastness (to milling, light, steaming and carbonising) are taken in the first place into account. Cloth for facings, on the other hand, is usually dyed in the piece; for such material, good fastness to light, water and alkalies, besides good penetration, are of great importance. Acid Colours are the most frequently used for such purpose. Particulars for dyeing facings will be found in our pattern card No. 2708 and in our “Manual of Dyeing”, Volume II, pages 97—110. For uniform cloths, the following colours and mixtures come mainly into consideration: Black dyed in the Loose Wool. The Black required for producing Marengo, greyish black and bluish black mixture cloths (for instance, for German military trouserings as hitherto used, Austrian infantry over- coats, grey mixture cloths for railway officials, post office employes, etc.) is dyed in the loose wool with Anthracene Chrome Black F, FE, PPC extra, PPN extra, PPS extra, or, with Anthracene Acid Black DSN, DSF, DNG. Black dyed in the Piece. * For producing very fast shades, the same dyestuffs are used as are indicated above for loose wool; the method of appli- cation is likewise the same, the dyeing being sometimes carried out on white goods and sometimes also on goods which have been bottomed in the loose wool with Indigo MLB. The afore-mentioned dyestuffs offer the advantage of excel- lent penetration, and cloths dyed therewith in the piece like those dyed in the wool possess eminent fastness to light. * For dyeing directions see page 5. 66 Dyestuffs for Military and other Uniform Cloths. Blue dyed in the Loose Wool. * Blue for military and other uniform cloths is dyed in the loose wool both for solid shades and for mixtures of blue and white (grey etc. ) . For such purposes the wool is sometimes dyed with Anthracene Colours direct, and sometimes vat-dyed with Indigo MLB and then dyed with the dyestuffs mentioned below. The following dyestuffs come particularly into con- sideration: 1. After-Chroming Process: Anthracene Chrome Blue F, FR, B, BB, G, R Anthracene Acid Blue EB, ER. 2. Chromed Wool: Anthracene Chrome Blue BW extra, RRW extra, R, G, BB. 3. Dyed direct with the Addition of Acetate of Ammonia:** Alphanol Blue BR extra, 5RN, GN. Blue dyed in the Piece. * For dyeing dark blues in the piece, the same dyestuffs are used as for blue on loose wool, and are applied in the same manner. Blue piece-dyeings are likewise frequently bottomed first with Indigo, usually in the loose wool, the saddening or topping being then carried out in the piece with the above-mentioned dyestuffs. Dark Green and Bluish Green dyed in the Loose Wool. * Dark green and bluish green military and other uniform cloths (for instance for the German country police and custom- house officers’ uniforms, forestry uniforms, etc.) are dyed almost without exception in the wool, the following dyestuffs being used for the purpose: A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Blue F, BB, G Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Yellow C, GG, BN Alizarine Brilliant Green SE, G Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra saddened if necessary with Anthracene Chrome Black 5B, PPC extra Anthracene Acid Black DSN, DSF. * For dyeing directions see pages 3 and 5. ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. II (No. 2939), page 8. 67 Dyestuffs for Military and other Uniform Cloths. The dark green and bluish green shades are frequently also produced on wool dyed previously with Indigo, the vat- dyed wool being dyed subsequently with the following dyestuffs: 1. After-Chroming Process: Anthracene Chrome Blue F, G, BB Anthracene Yellow BN, C, GG Alizarine Brilliant Green SE, G Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra. 2. Chromate Process: Anthracene Chromate Green B, KFF extra Anthracene Chromate Blue XB Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL, M Alizarine Brilliant Green SE, G. 3. Dyed in an acid bath:** Milling Yellow 0 Alizarine Brilliant Green G. For brightening the green dyeings, Brilliant Milling Green B or Tetra Cyanole A are used. Dark Green and Bluish Green dyed in the Piece. * The dyestuffs mentioned for loose wool may be used in like manner for piece dyeing, Anthracene Yellow BN being given the preference over Anthracene Yellow C. In the case also of goods to be dyed in the piece, the loose wool is frequently bottomed in the Indigo vat, and after weaving and milling, the pieces are topped with Milling Yellow 0, Anthracene Yellow BN, or with Anthracene Chrome Blue G, F and Anthracene Yellow BN as indicated above. On the other hand, green on piece-goods is frequently also dyed on chromed wool, in which case the following dyestuffs are used: Chromed Wool: Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Blue BW extra, G Anthracene Yellow BN Anthracene Blue Black BE Alizarine Brilliant Green SE, G. * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing’’, Vol. II (No. 2939), page G. Dyestuffs for Military and other Uniform Cloths. Dark Olive dyed in the Loose Wool or in the Piece.* Dark olives are produced with the same dyestuffs as dark greens and bluish greens, with the addition of Anthracene Chrome Brown D or Anthracene Chrome Red A. Brown dyed in the Loose Wool. * Plain browns and browns for various mixtures are dyed in the loose wool. The following dyestuffs come into con- sideration for the purpose: 1. After-Chroming Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Brown D, DWN, SWN, A Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, ER Anthracene Yellow C, GG, BN Anthracene Chrome Blue F, BB, R, G Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Red A. 2. Chromate Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, ER Anthracene Chromate Yellow M, KL, GG Anthracene Chromate Blue XB. Browns dyed in the Piece. * The same dyestuffs are used for this purpose as for loose wool, the following however being particularly favoured owing to their very good penetrating properties: After-Chroming Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Brown D, SWN Anthracene Yellow BN Anthracene Chrome Blue F, BB, G, B Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Red A. * For dyeing directions see pages 5 and 7. 69 Dyestuffs for Military and other Uniform Cloths. Madder Red dyed in the Loose Wool. * For Madder Red shades the following dyestuffs are used: After-Chroming Process: Diamine Fast Red F (fixed with bichrome or chromium fluoride) shaded with Anthracene Yellow C, RN Anthracene Chrome Blue F or Anthracene Blue Black C or Anthracene Chrome Red G. The colours obtained with Diamine Fast Red F or An- thracene Chrome Red G are distinguished from all other madder red shades by their superior fastness to alkalies and carbonising, the much simpler method of production and the better condition of the wool for milling. Madder Red dyed in the Piece. * The same dyestuffs are used for piece-goods as for loose wool; for shading towards yellow, Anthracene Yellow BN is however given the preference. Red Fezzes. * This head-dress worn in the East and adopted for various Colonial armies is dyed with the following dyestuffs: 1. After-Chroming Process:* Diamine Fast Red F. 2. In a neutral bath:** Diamine Scarlet B, 3B Diamine Fast Red F. 3. In an acid bath:** Wool Red B. * For dyeing directions see page 5. ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. II (No. 2939), pages 6 and 13. 70 Dyestuffs for Military and other Uniform Cloths. “Field Grey” (Military Grey). These shades have gained very great importance in recent years owing to the general desire to introduce uniforms which are as little visible as possible in the field. For such purpose ‘ Field Grey” is eminently suited, and on account of its flat shade it offers the additional great advantage of being much less sensitive to dust and dirt than the old military shades. ‘‘Field Grey” Trouserings for the German Army are produced on a pale blue Indigo bottom, according to the after-chroming process, * with 1 % Anthracene Chrome Brown D 0,35 % Anthracene Acid Brown G 0,08 % Anthracene Yellow C 1 % bichrome. The regulation shade is obtained by mixing 60 parts of dyed wool with 40 parts of white wool. “Field Grey” Coat Cloth for the German Army is produced as follows: The colour is produced on a lighter Indigo bottom than the shade for the trouserings, according to the after-chroming method*, with 0,74 % Anthracene Chrome Brown D 0,08 % Anthracene Acid Brown G 0,1 % Anthracene Yellow C 1 % bichrome. The regulation shade is obtained by mixing 65 parts of dyed wool with 35 parts of white wool. * For dyeing directions see page 5. 71 Dyestuffs for Military and other Uniform Cloths. “Field Grey” Shades of unsurpassed Fastness to Light. The identical shades of “Field Grey” as described on the previous page may be obtained with very much better fastness to light by using mixing wool tinted greenish with metallic salts instead of white mixing wool. This mixing wool stained with metallic salts possesses absolute fastness to light and is not in any way affected by exposure lasting for months or even years. We have taken out patents or applied for patents for producing such mixtures in all the industrial countries. Producing greenish Mixing Wool. Charge the bath with 3 — 3 % % bichrome % sulphate of copper 6 % lactic acid 50 % 1 % sulphuric acid; enter the scoured wool at 70° C. (160 deg. F.), raise to the boil, and boil for % to 1 hour; when the wool, which is at first coloured yellow, has assumed a green shade and the liquor is perfectly clear, throw out, rinse, and dry. New “Field Grey” Trouserings corresponding to the German Standard Pattern. On a light blue Indigo Bottom: After-Chroming Process:* 2,8 % Anthracene Chrome Brown SWN 0,1 % Anthracene Chrome Red A 0,3 % Anth racene Yellow GG 2 % bichrome. The regulation shade is obtained by mixing approx. 50 parts of dyed wool with ,, 50 parts of the above-mentioned greenish mixing wool. New “Field Grey” Coat Cloth corresponding to the German Standard Pattern. On a light blue Indigo Bottom: After-Chroming Process:* 2,8 % Anthracene Chrome Brown SWN 0,3 % Anthr acene Yellow GG 2 % bichrome. The regulation shade is obtained by mixing approx. 50 parts of dyed wool ,, 50 parts of greenish mixing wool. * For dyeing directions see page 5. 72 Dyestuffs for Military and other Uniform Cloths. ‘Field Grey” Military Cloth for the Italian Army. This is produced with greenish mixing wool according to our patented process and is a little more greenish in tone than the German “Field Grey”. It is dyed as follows: a) On a dark Indigo Bottom. After - Chroming Method: * 1,1 % Anthracene Yellow C 1.5 % Anthracene Chrome Brown D 1,75 % bichrome. b) On a pale Indigo Bottom. A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Method: * 3.5 % Anthracene Blue Black BE 0,9 % Anthracene Yellow C 2.5 % bichrome. • The regulation shade is obtained by mixing 45 parts of dyed wool with 55 parts of the greenish mixing wool. The colours produced in this manner with stained mixing wool are considerably superior, both in fastness to light and in their behaviour to carbonising, to the “Field Grey” produced hitherto by the ordinary method. An exposure of a garment for four months to every kind of weather has not had the slightest effect on the colour, whereas materials produced with white wool had suffered very much at the end of half that time already. By modifying the shade of the wool or of the mixing wool tinted with metallic salts, the shades may be varied at will; as the case may demand, mixing wool dyed a drab shade like that for Khaki (see page 74) may be used instead of the green mixing wool. * For dyeing directions see page 5. 73 Dyestuffs for Military and other Uniform Cloths. Khaki. In addition to “Field Grey”, Khaki shades principally have attained to great importance during recent years owing to their being very little noticeable in the field. Khaki is some- times dyed as a uni-colour, but more often produced by mixing. The latter again is produced sometimes by mixing only one colour with white, and sometimes two, three or even more colours with white; for the bottom shades, a pale yellowish brown, further a gold, dark brown, and blue are used. The English Khaki for blouses, for instance, is produced with gold, brown and light blue dyeings mixed with white, the following being the proportions: 53 parts gold 4 K parts light blue 17 parts brown 25/4 parts white. The colours are produced on white wool with the follow- ing quantities of colouring matters: A f t e r - G h r o m i n g Process:* A. Gold. 0,4 % Anthracene Chrome Brown 0,3 % Anthracene Chrome Blue F 1 % Anthracene Yellow C 1 % bichrome. B. Brown. 2,1 % Anthracene Chrome Brown 1,25 % Anthracene Chrome Blue F 1,8 % Anthracene Yellow C 3 % bichrome. C. Light Blue. 1 % Anthracene Chrome Blue F 0,75 % bichrome. Khaki dyeings of considerably better fastness to light may be obtained in the same manner as afore described for “Field Grey” by using wool tinted a drab shade with metallic salts instead of white mixing wool. Production of Drab-Coloured Mixing Wool. Charge the bath with 3 — 3/4 % bichrome 0,5 % sulphate of copper 6 % lactic acid 50 % 1 % sulphuric acid; enter the scoured wool at 70° C. (160 deg. F.), raise to the boil, and boil for % to 1 hour; then cool off, add * For dyeing directions see page 5. 74 Dyestuffs for Military and other Uniform Cloths. 2 % hyposulphite of soda, and boil for another K hour; then rinse, and dry. Similar colours may be obtained by boiling first with 2 % chrome alum 2 % sulphate of copper 3 % oxalic acid and subsequently adding 2 % hyposulphite of soda. In order to produce the English Khaki, for instance, on blouses with much better fastness to light, the gold and brown should be dyed considerably darker, the afore-described drab- coloured mixing wool being used in place of white wool in order to attain the shade of the mixture in question. The following are the quantities to be used for the purpose: 1. After-Chroming Process:* A. Dark Gold. 0,6 % Anthracene Chrome Brown D 0,5 % Anthracene Chrome Blue F 2 % Anth racene Yellow C 2 % bichrome. B. Dark Brown: 4,5 % Anthracene Chrome Brown D 1,3 % Anthracene Chrome Blue F 2,25 % Anth racene Yellow C 3 % bichrome. C. Light Blue: 1 % Anth racene Chrome Blue F 0,75 % bichrome. 2. Chromate Process: * A. Dark Gold. 0,4 % Anthracene Chromate Brown EB 0,2 % Anthracene Chromate Grey G 2 % Anthracene Chromate Yellow M 1.3 % bichrome. B. Dark Brown. 2.4 % Anthracene Chromate Brown EB 2 % Anthracene Chromate Yellow M 2,2 % bichrome. C. Light Blue. 1 % Anthracene Chromate Blue XR 0,1 % Alizarine Brilliant Green G 0,6 % bichrome. * For dyeing directions see pages 5 and 7. 75 Dyestuffs for Military and other Uniform Cloths. The proportions used for the mixture fast to light are: 43 parts Dark Gold I 10 Dark Brown dyed by tbe or the chromate process. 5 „ Pale Blue J 42 ,, Drab-coloured mixing wool. By mixing other ground colours with the drab-coloured mixing wool, numerous other mixtures of eminent fastness, very little visible in the field, may be obtained. Khaki dyed in the Piece. For Khaki shades produced in the piece, the following dyestuffs are used: 1. Dyed by the After-Chroming Process or on Chromed Wool:* Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Brown D Anthracene Yellow BN, RN Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Blue Black BE, C Anthracene Chrome Blue F. 2. Dyed by the Chromate Process: * Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, ER Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL, M, FL Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Chromate Violet XB. In some special cases Diamine Colours are used for dyeing Khaki shades in the piece, the following in particular: Dyed in a neutral bath: ** Diamine Fast Yellow FF Diamine Fast Red F Diamine Fast Blue G. * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. II (No. 2939), page 13. 76 D. Dyestuffs for Piece-Dyeing Grey and Mode Shades.* a) For very pale Shades, with best Levelling: 1. Chromed Wool: Combinations of Anthracene Yellow BN Anthracene Chrome Brown D Anthracene Chromate Brown EB Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chrome Red A. 2. Aft er - Chroming Process: Combinations of Anthracene Yellow BN, RN, GG Anthracene Chrome Brown D, SWN Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chrome Blue G Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Chrome Violet B. 3. Chromate Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL, M Anthracene Chromate Brown EB Anthracene Chromate Grey G Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chromate Violet XB Anthracene Chromate Black D. b) For Medium and Deep Shades: 1. Chromed Wool: Combinations of the dyestuffs indicated under a) 1. and Anthracene Chrome Red G Anthracene Chromate Brown WS, WG Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Blue G, BB. * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. 77 Dyestuffs for Piece-Dyeing, 2. After -Chroming Process: Combinations of the dyestuffs indicated under a) 2 and Anthracene Chrome Brown DWN, DW Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Blue BB, F Anthracene Chrome Black PPS extra (for saddening very deep shades of grey). 3. Chromate Process: Combinations of the dyestuffs indicated under a) 3. and Anthracene Chromate Brown WS, WG, 3G, ER Anthracene Chromate Red Y Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Chromate Green B, KFF extra Anthracene Chromate Black STW. c) For Piece-Goods with Cotton Effects: 1. Chromed Wool: Combinations of Anthracene Yellow BN, RN Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Chrome Violet B Anthracene Chrome Blue F, R Anthracene Blue Black BE. 2. After -Chroming Process: Combinations of Anthracene Yellow BN, RN Anthracene Chrome Brown SWN Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Chrome Violet B Anthracene Chrome Blue F, R, B Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Black PPS extra. 3. Chromate Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL Anthracene Chromate Grey G Anthracene Chromate Violet XB Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Chromate Green B, KFF extra Anthracene Chromate Black STW. 78 Dyestuffs for Piece-Dyeing. d) For Piece-Goods with Silk Effects: 1. Chromed Wool: Combinations of Anthracene Yellow BN, GG Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Chrome Violet B Anthracene Chrome Blue F, R. 2. Chromate Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Green WS Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL Anthracene Chromate Red Y Anthracene Chromate Violet XB Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Chromate Grey G Alizarine Brillant Green G. e) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE, Tetra Cyanole A, Wool Red B. For shading piece-goods with silk effects: Fast Acid Yellow TL, Acid Yellow AT, Orange GG, Lanafuchsine SG, Brilliant Lanafuch- sine SL, Cyanole extra. 79 Dyestuffs for Piece-Dyeing. Brown and Olive.* a) With best possible Fastness: 1. After-Chroming Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Brown D, DWN, SWN, DW Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, ER, WS, WG Anthracene Yellow BN, RN, GG Anthracene Chrome Red A, G Anthracene Blue Black C, BE Anthracene Chrome Blue BB, G, F, R Anthracene Chrome Violet B Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra, PPS extra (for very deep shades). 2. Chromed Wool: Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, WS, WG Anthracene Yellow BN Anthracene Blue Black C, BE Anthracene Chrome Blue G Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra saddened if necessary with Anthracene Acid Black DSF. 3. Chromate Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, ER, WS, WG, [3G Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL, M Anthracene Chromate Red Y Anthracene Chromate Grey G Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Chromate Violet XB Anthracene Chromate Green B, KFF extra Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE. For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. Dyestuffs for Piece-Dyeing. b) Cheaper Method of Production: 1. After-Chroming Process: Combinations of Anthracene Acid Brown G, N, B Anthracene Chrome Brown DWN Anthracene Chromate Brown EB Anthracene Yellow C Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra. 2. Chromate Process: Combinations of Antracene Chromate Brown EB, ER, WS, WG, [3G Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Chromate Green B Anthracene Chromate Black STW. c) For Piece-Goods with Cotton Effects: 1. After-Chroming Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Yellow BN, RN Anthracene Chrome Violet B Anthracene Chrome Blue F, R, B Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chrome Black PPS extra. 2. Chromed Wool: Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Brown SWN Anthracene Yellow BN, RN Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Chrome Blue F, R Anthracene Blue Black BE Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE. d) For Piece-Goods with Silk Effects: 1. Chromed Wool: Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Yellow BN Anthracene Chrome Violet B Anthracene Chrome Blue F, R Anthracene Chromate Green B. 81 Dyestuffs for Piece-Dyeing. 2. Chromate Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Red Y Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL Anthracene Chromate Grey G Anthracene Chromate Violet XB Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Chromate Green B. e) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Tetra Cyanole A, Wool Red B. For shading piece-goods with silk effects: Fast Acid Yellow TL, Acid Yellow AT, Lana- fuchsine SG, Brilliant Lanafuchsine SL, Azo Wool Blue C. 82 Dyestuffs for Piece- Dyeing. Red, Orange and Claret * a) With best possible Fastness: 1. Dyed by the After-Chroming Process or on Chromed Wool: Red : Anthracene Chrome Red A, G Diamine Fast Red F Orange: The same dyestuffs shaded with Anthracene Yellow RN, BN Claret: The same dyestuffs shaded with Anthracene Chrome Violet B. 2. Chromate Process Red : Anthracene Chromate Red Y, 6R Orange: The same dyestuffs shaded with Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL Claret: The same dyestuffs shaded with Anthracene Chromate Violet XB. b) For particularly bright Shades: 1. Dyed in an acid bath: ** Red : Wool Red B Orange: Wool Red B shaded with Milling Yellow 0 Claret: Wool Red B shaded with Formyl Violet S4B— 10B. 2. Dyed in a neutral bath:** Red : Diamine Scarlet B, 3B Diamine Purpurine B, V, 3B Orange: The same dyestuffs shaded with Milling Yellow 0 or Diamine Yellow CP Claret: Diamine Bordeaux B. * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing”, Voi. II (No. 2939), pages 6 and 13. 83 Dyestuffs for Piece-Dyeing. c) For Piece-Goods with Cotton Effects: 1. Dyed by the A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Process or on Chromed Wool: Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Chrome Violet B Anthracene Yellow BN, RN. 2. Dyed in an acid bath: ** Wool Red B Milling Yellow 0 Formyl Violet S4B. d) For Piece-Goods with Silk Effects: 1. Chromed Wool: Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Chrome Violet B Anthracene Yellow BN. 2. Chromate Process: Anthracene Chromate Red Y Anthracene Chromate Violet XB Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL. e) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Anthracene Yellow BN, RN, GG, Milling Yellow 0, Rosazeine B, Formyl Violet S4B — 10B, Brilliant Milling Bine B, Anthracene Acid Blue RR (to be dyed only on chromed wool), Anthracene Chrome Blue R, Anthracene Chromate Violet XB. For shading piece-goods with silk effects: Lanafuchsine SG, Naphtol Red C, Orange GG, Fast Acid Yellow TL, Acid Yellow AT, Azo Wool Violet 7R. ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. II (No. 2939), page 6. 84 Dyestuffs for Piece-Dyeing. Yellow and Green* a) With best possible fastness: 1. After-Chroming Process: Yellow: Anthracene Yellow GG (fixed with chromium fluoride) Anthracene Yellow BN, RN Green: Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra or Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Blue G, BB, F Anthracene Yellow BN, GG Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE; for saddening: Anthracene Chrome Black PPS extra, 5B. 2. Chromed Wool: Yellow: Anthracene Yellow BN, RN, GG Green: Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra or Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Blue G, BW extra, BB, F Anthracene Yellow BN, GG Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra saddened, if necessary, with Anthracene Chrome Black PPS extra. * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. V 85 Dyestuff for Piece-Dyeing. 3. Chromate Process: Yellow: Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL, GG Green: Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green B, KFF extra or Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Green B, KFF extra Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL, GG Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE for saddening: Anthracene Chromate Grey G. b) For particularly bright Shades: Dyed in an acid bath: ** Yellow: Milling Yellow 0 Green: Alizarine Brilliant Green G Tetra Cyanole A Brilliant Milling Green B or combinations of these dyestuffs. c) For Piece-Goods with Cotton Effects: 1. Dyed by the After-Chroming Process or on Chromed Wool: Anthracene Yellow BN, RN Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Anthracene Chrome Blue F Anthracene Chrome Black PPS extra. 2. Chromate Process: Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL, GG Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green B, KFF extra Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Chromate Grey G. ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. II (No. 2939), page 6. 86 Dyestuffs for Piece-Dyeing. 3. Dyed in an acid bath: ** Milling Yellow 0 Alizarine Brilliant Green G Tetra Cyanole A Brilliant Milling Green B. d) For Piece-Goods with Silk Effects: 1. Chromed Wool: Anthracene Yellow BN, GG Anthracene Chrome Blue F Anthracene Chromate Green B, KFF extra Alizarine Brilliant Green G. 2. Chromate Process: Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL Anthracene Chromate Green B, KFF extra Alizarine Brilliant Green G Anthracene Chromate Blue XB Anthracene Chromate Grey G. e) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Brilliant Milling Green B, Tetra Cyanole A, Formyl Blue B, Anthracene Blue Black C, BE. For shading piece-goods with silk effects: Acid Yellow AT, Acid Green extra cone., Azo Wool Blue C. 87 Dyestuffs for Piece-Dyeing. Blue and Violet.* a) With best possible Fastness: 1. Chromed Wool: Anthracene Chrome Blue RRW extra, BW extra, G, R, B, BB, F Anthracene Acid Blue ER, EB, RR Anthracene Chrome Violet B. 2. After-Chroming Process: Anthracene Chrome Blue F, FR, BB, R, B, G Anthracene Acid Blue EB, ER Anthracene Chrome Violet B. 3. Chromate Process: Anthracene Chromate Blue XR, RRW extra Anthracene Chromate Violet XB. b) Cheaper Method of Production: 1. Dyed by the After-Chroming Process: Azo Chrome Blue T, TB or combinations of: Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Black PPS extra, F, PBB Anthracene Acid Black SR, SBB and Formyl Violet S4B- 10B Formyl Blue B Brilliant Milling Blue B Tetra Cyanole A. 2. Dyed direct with the addition of acetate of ammonia. ** Alphanol Blue BR extra, 5RN, GN. c) For particularly bright Blues and Violets: To he dyed in an acid bath: ** Brilliant Milling Blue B Tetra Cyanole A Formyl Violet S4B— 10B. * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. II (No. 2939), pages 6 and 8. Dyestuffs for Piece-Dyeing. d) For Piece-Goods with Cotton Effects: 1. Chromed Wool: Anthracene Chrome Blue F, R, B Anthracene Acid Blue ER, EB Anthracene Chrome Violet B. 2. A ft er - Chroming Process: Anthracene Chrome Blue F, FR, R Anthracene Acid Blue EB, ER Azo Chrome Blue T, TB Anthracene Chrome Violet B or combinations of Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Black PPS extra Anthracene Acid Black SR, SBB and Formyl Violet S4B— 10B Formyl Blue B Brilliant Milling Blue B Tetra Cyanole A. 3. Chromate Process: Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Chromate Violet XB. 4. Dyed direct with the addition of acetate of ammonia. ** Alphanol Blue BR extra, 5RN, GN. e) For Piece-Goods with Silk Effects: Chromed Wool: Anthracene Chrome Blue F, R, 2298 J Anthracene Chrome Violet B. f) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Brilliant Milling Blue B, Formyl Blue B, For- myl Violet S4B — 10B, Tetra Cyanole A, Wool Red B, Anthracene Chrome Red A. For shading piece-goods with silk effects: Alizarine Lanacyl Blue BB, R, Alizarine Lana- cyl Violet B, Cyanole extra, FF, Azo Wool Blue C, Azo Wool Violet 7R. ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. II (No. 2939), page 8. 89 Dyestuffs for Piece-Dyeing. Blacks.* a) With best possible Fastness to Light, Steaming, Alkalies and Perspiration: After-Chroming Method: Anthracene Chrome Black PPS extra, PPC extra, PPN extra, PFB extra, PFBB extra, P extra, PBB, F, 5B, KM. The “pp” and “P” brands are especially fast to potting. b) With very good Fastness to Light, Alkalies, Perspiration and Steaming: After - Chroming Method: Anthracene Acid Black SR, SRG, SRT, ST, DSF, DSN, DSFB, DNG. c) With good Fastness to Light, Alkalies and Perspiration: To be dyed in an acid bath: ** Alphanol Black BG, R, 3B, 3BN, KN. d) For Piece-Goods with Cotton Effects: After-Chroming Process: Anthracene Chrome Black PPS extra, PPN extra Anthracene Acid Black ST, SR, SRT. e) For Piece-Goods with Silk Effects: A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Process: Anthracene Acid Black ST Chrome Black B for Wool and Silk Goods. *** f) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Anthracene Yellow BN, RN, Anthracene Acid Brown G, Anthracene Chrome Red A, Anthra- cene Chrome Violet B, Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra, Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE, Anthracene Chrome Blue F, Anthracene Acid Blue EB, ER, Wool Red B, Brilliant Milling Blue B, Tetra Cyanole A, Formyl Violet S4B— 10B. For shading piece-goods with silk effects: Anthracene Yellow BN, Anthracene Chrome Violet B, Anthracene Chrome Blue F, Anthra- cene Chromate Green B, KFF extra. * For dyeing directions see page 5. ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. II (No. 2939), page 6. *** The dyeing of Chrome Black B for Wool and Silk Goods is commenced with formic acid, the goods being after-chromed in a fresh bath. 90 E. Dyestuffs for Machine-Dyeing with special reference to the dyeing of Cops and Cross Spools. Dyeing of Loose Wool and Wool Yarns in Dyeing Machines. When dyeing loose wool and yarns in apparatus, care has to be taken that the material is not pressed down too hard; the machines which are best suited for the purpose therefore are those in which the wool is held down only by a cover lying on loosely or lightly weighted. In the dyeing of yarns, special attention has likewise to be paid to the way in which the hanks are placed in the apparatus to avoid the formation of channels during the dyeing, which is apt to cause unevenness. The importance of having the dyestuffs in a complete state of solution has likewise very carefully to be borne in mind in order to avoid uneven shades. Boiling condensed water is used to best advantage for dissolving the dyestuffs, tbe solution being added to the dyebath through a fine sieve or a piece of cotton cloth. Dyeing of Wool Yarn in Form of Cops or Cross Spools. In the following tables will be found a list of dyestuffs suitable for dyeing cops and cross spools by both the spindle and the packing system. Cops and cross spools are usually dyed either according to the after-chroming or the chromate process, dyeing on a chrome mordant being resorted to in special cases only, for instance, for the production of bright blues. When dyeing Greys, Mode Colours, Browns and Olives according to the after-chroming process, it is advisable to add the amount of acid requisite for dyeing in one lot at the beginning of the operation, commencing at a low temperature - 9i - Dyestuffs for Machine-Dyeing. and raising the same gradually to the boil. By this means the subsequent addition of acid, which is the most frequent cause of unevenness, may be obviated; this is the most reliable way of obtaining good, even shades. The chroming is always carried out to best advantage in a fresh bath, but in any case the liquor should be cooled down to 50 — 60° G. (120 — 140 deg. F.) before adding the bichrome. 92 Dyestuffs for Machine-Dyeing. Grey and Mode Shades.* 1. After-Chroming Process: Combinations of Anthracene Yellow BN, RN, GG Anthracene Chrome Brown D, SWN Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chrome Blue G Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Chrome Violet B; for medium and deep tones also: Anthracene Chrome Brown DWN Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Blue BB. 2 . Chromate Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL Anthracene Chromate Brown EB Anthracene Chromate Grey G Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chromate Violet XB Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Chromate Black D. Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE, Brilliant Milling Green B, Tetra Cyanole A, Wool Red B. For dyeing directions see pages 5 and 7. Dyestuffs for Machine-Dyeing. Brown and Olive.* 1. After- Chroming Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Brown D, DWN, SWN Anthracene Yellow BN, RN, GG Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Blue Black C, BE Anthracene Chrome Blue BB, G Anthracene Chrome Violet B Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra. 2. Chromate Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, ER, WS, [WG, 3G Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL, GG Anthracene Chromate Red Y Anthracene Chromate Grey G Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Chromate Violet XB Anthracene Chromate Black STW Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE. Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Brilliant Milling Green B, Tetra Cyanole A, Wool Red B, Diamine Fast Red F. * For dyeing directions see pages 5 and 7. 94 Dyestuffs for Machine-Dyeing. Red, Orange and Claret.* 1. After-Chroming Process: Red: Anthracene Chrome Red G Anthracene Chrome Red A Orange: The above-named dyestuffs shaded with Anthracene Yellow RN, BN Claret: The above-named dyestuffs shaded with Anthracene Chrome Violet B. 2. Chromate Process: Red: Anthracene Chromate Red Y Orange: The same, shaded with Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL, GG Claret: The same, shaded with Anthracene Chromate Violet XB. Dyestuff for Shading Purposes: Formyl Violet S4B. * For dyeing directions see pages 5 and 7. 95 Dyestuffs for Machine-Dyeing. Yellow and Green.* 1. After-Chroming Process: Yellow: Anthracene Yellow GG (fixed with chromium fluoride) Anthracene Yellow BN, RN Green: Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra or, Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Blue G, BB Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Yellow BN, GG Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE. 2. Chromate Process: Yellow: Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL, GG Green: Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra or, Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL, GG Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE. Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Brilliant Milling Green B, Tetra Cyanole A, Formyl Blue B. Dyeings of Brilliant Milling Green B become a little paler on severe alkaline treatment, the original shade returning however on souring off subsequently. * For dyeing directions see pages 5 and 7. 96 Dyestuffs for Machine-Dyeing. Blue and Violet.* a) With best possible Fastness to Milling and Light: 1. After-Chroming Process: Anthracene Chrome Blue F, FR, BB, G Anthracene Acid Blue EB, ER Anthracene Chrome Violet B. 2. Chromed Wool: Anthracene Chrome Blue RRW extra, BW extra, [G, R Anthracene Acid Blue RR. 3. Chromate Process: Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Chromate Violet XB. b) Cheaper Method of Production: A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Process: Combinations of Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra, PPS extra, PBB and Formyl Violet S4B Brilliant Milling Blue B Formyl Blue B Tetra Cyanole A. c) Fast to Potting and Cross-Dyeing: A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Process: Anthracene Chrome Blue F, G, BB. d) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Brilliant Milling Blue B, Formyl Blue B, Tetra Cyanole A, Brilliant Milling Green B, Formyl Violet S4B — 10B, Wool Red B, Anthracene Chrome Red A, Anthracene Blue Black BE. * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. 97 Dyestuffs for Machine-Dyeing. Black.* a) With best possible Fastness to Milling, Potting and Light: After-Chroming Process: Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra, PPN extra, PPS extra, P extra, PFB extra, 5B. The “pp” brands are eminently fast to light. b) With very good Fastness to Milling and Light, and good Fastness to Potting: After-Chroming Process: Anthracene Chrome Black F, FE, KM, PBB Anthracene Acid Black DSF. DSFB, SB. Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Anthracene Yellow BN, RN, Anthracene Acid Brown G, Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra, Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE, Anthracene Chrome Red A, Anthracene Chrome Blue F. * For dyeing directions see page 5. 98 F. Dyestuffs for Shoddy Grey and Mode Shades.* a) For carbonised material which has not been neutralised: 1. After-Chroming Process: Combinations of Anthracene Yellow BN Anthracene Chrome Brown D, SWN Anthracene Chrome Blue G, BB Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Chrome Violet B Anthracene Acid Black SBB, SAS. 2. Chromed Wool: Combinations of Anthracene Yellow BN, C Anthracene Chrome Brown D Anthracene Chromate Brown EB Anthracene Chrome Blue G, BB Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Anthracene Chrome Red A. b) For uncarbonised (all-wool) or neutralised material: 1. After - Chroming Process: Combinations of the dyestuffs indicated under a) 1 and Anthracene Yellow C Anthracene Chrome Brown DWN, DW Anthracene Chromate Brown EB Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra. For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. Dyestuffs for Shoddy. 2. Chromate Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL, M Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, 3G, WS, WG Anthracene Chromate Grey G Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra. 3. Chromed Wool: The same dyestuffs as indicated sub a) 2. c) Fast to Potting and Cross-Dyeing: Dyed by the After -Chroming Process: Combinations of Anthracene Yellow C Anthracene Chrome Brown D, SWN Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Blue G, BB Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra. d) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE, Brilliant Milling Green B, Tetra Cyanole A, Wool Red B. 100 Dyestuffs for Shoddy. Brown and Olive Shades.* a) For carbonised material which has not been neutralised: 1. After-Chroming Process: Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Brown D, SWN Anthracene Yellow BN, RN Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Chrome Blue BB, G, R Anthracene Chrome Violet B Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Alizarine Brilliant Green SE Anthracene Acid Black SBB. 2. Chromed Wool: Combinations of Anthracene Acid Brown B Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, WS, WG Anthracene Yellow C Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Blue G, BB, R Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Alizarine Brilliant Green SE; for saddening if necessary: Anthracene Acid Black DSF. b)For uncarbonised (all-wool) or neutralised material: 1. After-Chroming Pro c ess : Combinations of the products indicated under a) 1. and Anthracene Chrome Brown DWN, DW Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, WS, WG Anthracene Acid Brown N, B Anthracene Yellow C Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra. * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. 101 Dyestuffs for Shoddy. 2. Chromate Process: Combinations of Anthracene Anthracene Anthracene Anthracene Anthracene Anthracene Anthracene Anthracene for saddening if Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, ER, WS, [WG, 3G Chromate Yellow KL, M Chromate Red Y Blue Black C Chromate Grey G Chromate Blue XR Chromate Violet XB Chromate Green B, KFF extra; necessary: Chromate Black STW. c) Fast to Potting and Cross-Dyeing: A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Process: Anthracene Chrome Brown D, SWN Anthracene Yellow C Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Blue G, BB Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra. d) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Alizarine Brilliant Green SE, Brilliant Milling Green B, Tetra Cyanole A, Wool Red B, Diamine Fast Red F. 102 Dyestuffs for Shoddy. Red, Orange and Claret.* a) For carbonised material which has not been neutralised: 1. After -Chroming Process: Red : Anthracene Chrome Red A Orange: The same shaded with Anthracene Yellow RN, BN Claret: The same, shaded with Anthracene Chrome Violet B. 2. Chromed Wool: The same dyestuffs as indicated for dyeing by the After-Chroming Process. b) For uncarbonised (all-wool) or neutralised material: 1. After-Chroming Process: Red : Diamine Fast Red F Anthracene Chrome Red G Anthracene Chrome Red A. Orange: The same dyestuffs, shaded with Anthracene Yellow RN, BN, R, C. Claret: The same dyestuffs, shaded with Anthracene Chrome Violet B. 2. Chromate Process Red : Anthracene Chromate Red Y, 6R. Or ange : The same dyestuffs, shaded with Anthracene Yellow RN, BN, R, C. Claret: The same dyestuffs, shaded with Anthracene Chromate Violet XB. 3. Chromed Wool: The same dyestuffs as indicated under b) 1 to be dyed by the After-Chroming Process. * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. 103 Dyestuffs for Shoddy. c) For particularly bright Reds: Milling Red G Wool Red B shaded if necessary with Milling Yellow 0 or Formyl Violet S4B (dyed to best advantage on neutralised or at least partially neutralised material). d) Fast to Potting and Cross-Dyeing: After-Chroming Process: Anthracene Chrome Red A Diamine Fast Red F Anthracene Yellow C. e) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Anthracene Yellow, all brands, Rhodamine B, Formyl Violet S4B, Milling Red G, Wool Red B, Anthracene Chrome Violet B. ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. II (No. 2939), page 6. 104 Dyestuffs for Shoddy. Yellow and Green.* a) For carbonised material which has not been neutralised: After-Chroming Process: Yellow: Anthracene Yellow BN Green: Combinations of Anthracene Yellow BN Anthracene Chrome Blue G saddened if necessary with Anthracene Acid Black SAS. b) For uncarbonised (all-wool) or neutralised material: 1. After -Chroming Process: Yellow: Anthracene Yellow BN, C, GG (the GG brand fixed with chromium fluoride) Green: Alizarine Brilliant Green SE, G Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra or Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Blue G, BB Anthracene Yellow BN, C, GG Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Alizarine Brilliant Green SE, G; for saddening: Anthracene Chrome Black 5B, PPC extra. 2. Chromate Process: Yellow: Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL, M, GG Green: Anthracene Chromate Green B, KFF extra or Combinations of the same' with Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL, M, GG Alizarine Brilliant Green SE, G. * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. 105 Dyestuffs for Shoddy. 3. Chromed Wool: Yellow: Anthracene Yellow C, BN Green: Alizarine Brilliant Green SE, G Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra or Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Blue G, BW extra Anthracene Yellow C, BN Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Alizarine Brilliant Green SE, G. c) For particularly bright Shades: 1. Dyed in an acid bath:** Yellow: Milling Yellow O Green : Alizarine Brilliant Green G Brilliant Milling Green B Tetra. Cyanole A shaded if necessary with Milling Yellow 0. d) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Brilliant Milling Green B, Tetra Cyanole A, Formyl Blue B. Dyeings of Brilliant Milling Green B become a little paler by a severe alkaline treatment, the original shade returning however when souring off subsequently. ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. II (No. 2939), page 6. - 106 — Dyestuffs for Shoddy. Blue and Violet.* a) For carbonised material which has not been neutralised: After-Chroming Process: Anthracene Chrome Blue F, BB, G Anthracene Chrome Violet B or more cheaply with Combinations of Anthracene Acid Black SR, SBB and Brilliant Milling Blue B Tetra Cyanole A Formyl Blue B Formyl Violet S4B— 10B. b) For uncarbonised (all-wool) or neutralised material: 1. After-Chroming Process: Anthracene Acid Blue EB, EB Anthracene Chrome Violet B or more cheaply with Combinations of Anthracene Blue Black BE Anthracene Chrome Black PPC extra, F, PBB Anthracene Acid Black DSF, DNG and Brilliant Milling Blue B Tetra Cyanole A Formyl Blue B Formyl Violet S4B— 10B. 2. Chromed Wool: Anthracene Chrome Blue RRW extra, BW extra, G, R Anthracene Acid Blue EB, EB, RR. 3. Chromate Process: Anthracene Chromate Blue XR, RRW extra Anthracene Chromate Violet XB. * For dyeing directions see pages 3, 5 and 7. 107 Dyestuffs for Shoddy. 4. Dyed direct with the addition of acetate of ammonia:** Alphanol Blue BR extra, 5RN, GN. c) For particularly bright Blues and Violets: Dyed in an acid bath:** Brilliant Milling Blue B Tetra Cyanole A Formyl Blue B Formyl Violet S4B— 10B. d) Fast to Potting and Cross-Dyeing: Dyed by the After-Chroming Process: Anthracene Chrome Blue F, BB, G. e) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Brilliant Milling Blue B, Formyl Blue B, Tetra Cyanole A, Brilliant Milling Green B, Formyl Violet S4B— 10B, Wool Red B. ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. II (No. 2939), pages G and 8. 108 Dyestuffs for Shoddy. Black.* a) For carbonised material which has not been neutralised: After-Chroming Process: With very good fastness to milling, particularly next to white wool: Anthracene Acid Black SAS, SASG, SASB, SASN. b) For uncarbonised (all-wool) or neutralised material: After-Chroming Process: With very good fastness to milling and light: Anthracene Acid Black DSF, DNG Anthracene Chrome Black F, 5B. With best p ossible fastness to milling and po tting: Anthracene Chrome Black 1465 J, PF extra, PPC extra. c) For articles to be cross-dyed: After - Chroming Process: Anthracene Chrome Black 1465 J, PF extra Anthracene Chrome Black F, 5B Anthracene Acid Black DSF. d) For light milling (with good fastness to washing) : Dyed in an acid bath:** Alphanol Black BG, R, 3B, 3BN. e) Dyestuffs for Shading Purposes: Anthracene Yellow, all brands, Anthracene Acid Brown G, Anthracene Chrome Red A, Anthra- cene Acid Blue EB, ER, Brilliant Milling Green B, Brilliant Milling Blue B, Tetra Cyanole A, Formyl Violet S4B— 10B, Wool Red B, Milling Yellow O. * For dyeing directions see page 5. ** For dyeing directions see our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. II (No. 2939), page 6. 109 G. Vigoureux Printing (Printing of Slubbing). Apart from their application for the dyeing of loose wool, slubhing, yarn, piece-goods, hats, etc., the Anthracene Chrome and Anthracene Acid Colours are largely employed for Vigoureux printing. They are especially serviceable when the printed slubbing is required to be of best fastness because of its use for the making of men’s wear. The dyestuffs are dissolved, for the production of the print pastes, in a small amount of boiling water; the solution is then boiled up with the thickening, and on cooling off sufficiently the whole is mixed with the other ingredients well dissolved, and stirred until cold. When dissolving dyestuffs sensitive to copper it is well to add a little sulphocyanide of ammonia. The print pastes used for Vigoureux printing must not be too thick, such thickening agents being given the preference as are easily removed from the fibre by washing. British gum, and more recently also sennar gum (Vigoureux gum), are extensively used for the purpose; beside these, tragacanth, dex- trine and starch come mainly into consideration. The fixing agents for Chrome Colours which have proved particularly useful are: chromium fluoride, formate of chrome, acetate of chrome, and Chromaline, but in certain cases yellow chromate of potash proves of good service. Recipes for Print Pastes, for Anthracene Chrome and Anthracene Acid Colours. A) With Oxalate of Ammonia. 10 — 100 parts dyestuff are dissolved in 590—500 ,, water and boiled up with 45 ,, sennar gum (Vigoureux gum) or a corresponding amount of some other thickening; when cold, 5— 50 ,, chromium fluoride, 30— 50 ,, oxalate of ammonia and 5 ,, chlorate of soda, dissolved in 315—250 ,, water, are added approx. 1000 parts. no Vigoureux Printing (Printing of Slubbing). B) With Oxalic Acid. 10 — 100 parts dyestuff are dissolved in 590—500 „ water and boiled up with 45 „ sennar gum (Vigoureux gum) or a • corresponding amount of some other thickening; when cold, 5— 50 „ chromium fluoride, 10— 30 „ oxalic acid and 5 „ chlorate of soda, dissolved In 335—270 „ water, are added. approx. 1000 parts. Instead of chromium fluoride, an equal amount of formate of chrome or of Chromaline, or 3 to 4 times the amount of ace- tate of chrome of 32° Tw., may he used. When printing with Anthracene Chrome Black P extra, Anthracene Chrome Blue G, F, BB and R, Anthracene Chrome Violet B, Anthracene Blue Black BE or Vigoureux Green B, 3 parts sulphocyanide of ammonia per 1000 parts print paste should be added to the dyestuff on dissolving. After printing, steam damp twice over for \ X A hours at a time at slight pressure (about K — K atm.), then wash as usual, soap, dry, and comb. An addition of about 10 parts Turkey-red oil per 1000 parts print paste facilitates the wetting of the slubbing and (he penetration of the print paste. ill Vigoureux Printing (Printing of Slubbing). Grey and Mode Shades. Combinations of the under mentioned dyestuffs are used, or stock solutions are prepared of Yellow, Red and Blue or Blue-black, and these are mixed in the proportion required. Best suited combinations: • Anthracene Yellow BN Anthracene Chrome Brown D Vigoureux Red A Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Chrome Blue G, F Anthracene Blue Black C, BE Vigoureux Green B Anthracene Chromate Grey G Best suited for stock solutions: Anthracene Yellow BN Vigoureux Red A Anthracene Blue Black C, BE Printing Method B or A. Printing Method B or A. For Greys, the print pastes for Blacks are frequently used, being printed with a small printing surface; for such purpose the following are particularly well suited: Anthracene Chrome Black F Anthracene Chrome Black P extra Anthracene Chrome Black PPN extra Vigoureux Black S Printing Method A. Printing Method B or A. 112 Vigoureux Printing (Printing of Slubbing). Brown and Olive. With best possible Fastness to Light and Milling: Anthracene Chrome Brown D, DW, SWN Anthracene Chrome Brown DWN Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, WS, WG and combinations of these dyestuffs with Anthracene Yellow BN, RN, GG Vigoureux Red A Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Chrome Violet B Anthracene Chrome Blue F, BB, G, R Anthracene Blue Black C, BE Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Vigoureux Green B Printing Method B or A Printing Method A Printing Method B or A. Cheaper Method of Production: Vigoureux Brown N, B, SW, V shaded if necessary with Anthracene Yellow BN, C Anthracene Chrome Red G Printing Anthracene Chrome Black F Method a. Tetra Cyanole A 113 Vigoureux Printing (Printing of Slubbing). Red, Orange and Claret. i) With best possible Fastness to Light and Milling: Red: Anthracene Chrome Red G Diamine Fast Red F Vigoureux Red A Anthracene Chrome Red A Orange: The same dyestuffs shaded with Anthracene Yellow BN, RN Claret: Vigoureux Red A shaded with Anthracene Chrome Violet B Printing Method A jprinti | Pri Printing Method B or A Printing Method B or A Printing Method B or A. For particularly bright Shades: Red: Diamine Scarlet B, 3B Orange : The same dyestuffs shaded with Diamine Fast Yellow FF Diamine Yellow CP Claret: Wool Red B are printed according to Printing Method A or B, but without the use of a chrome salt and acid or of oxalate of ammonia, with the addition however of 5 — 20 parts phosphate of soda per 1000 parts print paste, to be printed according to Printing Method A or B, either with or without chrome salts. 114 Vigoureux Printing (Printing ol Stubbing). Yellow and Green. With best possible Fastness to Light and Milling: Yellow: Anthracene Yellow BN, RN, GG, C Green : Vigoureux Green B Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra shaded if necessary with Anthracene Yellow BN, GG Anthracene Chrome Blue F, G Anthracene Blue Black BE Printing Method B or A. For particularly bright Prints: Yellow: Milling Yellow 0 Green : Alizarine Brilliant Green G Tetra Cyanole A Brilliant Milling Green B shaded if necessary with Milling Yellow 0 are printed according to Printing Method A or B either with or without chrome salts. 115 Vigoureux Printing (Printing of Slubbing). Blue and Violet. With best possible Fastness to Light and Milling: Anthracene Chrome Blue F, BB, G R, b’ Anthracene Chrome Blue RRW Printing extra*, BW extra* [Method b or a. Anthracene Acid Blue EB, ER Anthracene Chrome Violet B. Cheaper Method of Production: Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Black F or Anthracene Chrome Black P extra, PPN extra Vigoureux Black S Anthracene Blue Black BE and Brilliant Milling Blue B Formyl Blue B Formyl Violet S4B Printing Method A Printing Method B or A. * Anthracene Chrome Blue RRW extra and BW extra are mixed to a paste with half their weight of ammonia liquor and then brought into solution by pouring hot water over them. 116 Vigoureux Printing (Printing of Slubbing). Black. a) With best possible Fastness to Light and Milling: Anthracene Chrome Black F, FE} Meth^A Anthracene Chrome Black | Printing Method PPN extra, P extra, 5B j B or a. Anthracene Chrome Black PPN extra is eminently fast to light. b) With good Fastness to Milling and Light: Anthracene Acid Black SR Vigoureux Black S c) For Goods to be cross-dyed: Anthracene Chrome Black F Anthracene Chrome Black P extra d) For Prints fast to Potting: Anthracene Chrome Black P extra, PPN e The following dyestuffs are used for shading: Anthracene Yellow BN, RN, Vigoureux Red A, Vigoureux Green B, Anthracene Chrome Blue F. Printing Method B. 5B } 1 Printing / Method A Printing Method B. I Printing xtra I Method B. 117 H. Dyestuffs for Hat Dyeing. Dyeing Directions for Colours. For ready-milled hats and for stiffened hats, the two-bath method is usually applied. Very good results may however also be obtained by the after-chroming method. The chromate process, in addition to its use in the dyeing of half-milled fur felt (shapes), has been found very serviceable for the dyeing of light weight fur felts which are stiffened after dyeing.. 1. After-Chroming Method. Charge the bath with 1 — 3 % sulphuric acid (according to the depth of shade and the amount of acid con- tained in the goods) and the dyestuff; or, for thicker shapes and bodies, with 5 — 10 % Glauber’s salt, 1 — 3 % sulphuric acid and the dyestuff. Enter the well wetted or boiled felts at 40 — 50° C. (105 — 120 deg. F.), raise in 24 to % hour to the hoil, and boil for 24 to 1 hour. Hereafter cool the bath off to 60—70° C. (140—160 deg. F.), add the requisite amount of bichrome (about one-third the weight of the dyestuff, and in the case of shapes even for deep shades not more than 1,5 % of the weight of the goods), raise again to the boil, and finally boil for another half hour. When dyeing felts containing acid with dyestuffs requiring acetic acid for starting the dyeing (see page 4), commence with the addition of 5 — 10 % Glauber’s salt only, if necessary adding 1 —2 % sulphuric acid after % hour’s boiling. Felts which have been milled alkaline are dyed with the addition of 5 — 10 % Glauber’s salt and 2 — 3 % acetic acid, 1—3 % sulphuric acid being added after 24 hour’s boiling. The chroming in both cases is carried out as described above. Felts containing much acid, for instance carbonised felts, before dyeing are to advantage neutralised in part by adding a little ammonia, borax or soda to the wetting liquor. Ready milled hat bodies (stumps) are turned inside out before entering the dyebath. They are turned round again 118 Dyestuffs for Hat Dyeing. previous to the chroming and entered right side outwards into the chroming bath. In the case of shapes (half-felted material) it is only necessary to turn when dyeing short-milled felt. Regarding the subsequent shading and the dyeing in copper vessels see pages 8 and 4 respectively. 2. Dyeing on a Chrome Mordant. Mordant the goods for 1 to VA hours at the boil w 7 ‘th 2 — 4 % bichrome and 1 A — 3 % tartar, rinse, and dye in a fresh bath. Enter lukewarm, raise gradually to the boil, and boil for 1 to 1H hours; for darker shades add subsequently about 3 % acetic acid in order to completely ex- haust the bath. Instead of tartar, other assistants may likewise be used. For particulars of the subsequent shading and the dyeing in copper vessels see pages 8 and 2 respectively. 3. Chromate Process. Dissolve the dyestuffs in hot water, and add them to the dyebath; raise the bath to the boil, cool off, add the above- mentioned weight of bichrome, and enter the felts at 50 — 70° C. (120 — 160 deg. F.). Treat the goods at this temperature for 15 to 20 minutes, and after raising again to the boil, dye at the simmer for VA to 1% hours. In the case of pale and medium shades the bath is sufficiently well exhausted, but for deep shades it is advisable to gradually add 1 — 3 % acetic acid, well diluted, after an hour’s boiling. Acid-milled or carbonised felts before dyeing should be neutralised by boiling out, if necessary with the addition of a little borax or ammonia. For particulars regarding subsequent shading see page 8. Dyeing Directions for Black. 1. Hat Chrome Black, Anthracene Chrome Black and Anthracene Acid Black. For soft hats, charge the dyebath with 5 — 15 % Glauber’s salt crystals and the requisite dyestuff; enter the wetted out or boiled shapes at 50 — 60° C. (120 — 140 deg. F.), raise in 20 to 30 minutes to the boil, and boil for % to 1 hour until the hats are dyed through, then add in several portions, 3 — 4% sulphuric acid, well diluted, for wool hats and 119 Dyestuffs for Hat Dyeing. 4—6% for fur hats, boiling finally for another 20 minutes after adding the last portion of acid. Hereafter chrome in a fresh liquor with the addition of 2 — 2K % bichrome and 2 % hydrochloric acid for 30 to 40 minutes at the simmer. It is not necessary to rinse the bodies before chroming. In the case of soap-milled wool hat bodies, add 3 — 5 % acetic acid to the dyebath in addition to 10 % Glauber’s salt, and dye as decribed above. When dyeing with Anthracene Chrome Black F or FE, or with combinations thereof, the bath should be corrected before- hand, according to the hardness of the water, with 5 — 10 oz oxalate of ammonia per 100 gallons liquor, and stirred well before adding the dyestuff. Glauber s salt and acid. In the case of stiffened hats, commence dyeing straight- away at 70 — 80° C. (160—175 deg. F. ), without any Glauber’s salt, but with the addition of 1 — 2 % sulphuric acid, or 10 % bisulphate of soda, or again 5 % acetic acid; raise immediately to the boil, and after boiling gently for K hour add in two portions 2 — 4 % sulphuric acid well diluted with cold water. After K hour’s boiling, chrome as already described. 2. Alphanol Black. Charge the bath with 10 % Glauber’s salt crystals and the requisite dyestuff; enter the wetted out or well boiled bodies at about 50° C. (120 deg. F.), raise to the boil, and boil for about IK to IK hours until penetration is complete. In order to com- pletely exhaust the bath, 2 — 4 % acetic acid or a little sulphuric acid may be added subsequently. In the case of soap-milled wool bodies, commence dyeing with 10% Glauber’s salt and 2 — 3% acetic acid, proceed- ing in other respects as described above. In the case of men’s wool hats which are subjected to severer steaming, it is recommended to after-treat without steam for 20 minutes with 3 % sulphate of copper after exhaustion of the bath in order to improve the fastness to steaming. For stiffened hats, commence dyeing straightaway at 70 — 80° C. (160 — 175 deg. F. ), with the addition of 5 % acetic acid or 1 — IK % sulphuric acid, and after boiling for K hour add 2 — 4 % sulphuric acid well diluted with cold water, dyeing then for another K hour at a gentle boil. — 120 Dyestuffs for Hat Dyeing. Dyestuffs for Grey, Mode and Brown Shades on Hat Felts. * (Grey, Beige, Drab, Beaver, Nutria, Havana, Tobacco, Coffee, etc.) 1. After-Chroming Method: For Wool and Fur Shapes: Combinations of Anthracene Yellow BN, BN Anthracene Acid Brown G Anthracene Chrome Bed A Anthracene Chrome Brown D, DWN Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chrome Blue G Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra. Cheaper combinations: Anthracene Chrome Brown DWN Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Yellow BN and Tetra Cyanole A for saddening. For dyeing directions see page 118. 2. Chromed Wool: For ready-milled soft and stiff Wool and Fur Hats: Combinations of Anthracene Yellow BN, RN Anthracene Acid Brown G Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Chrome Brown SWN Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, WS, WG Anthracene Chrome Blue G Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra. For dyeing directions see page 119. * The combinations which are dyed direct in an acid hath are indicated on page 118 of our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. II. (No. 2939). 121 Dyestuffs for Hat Dyeing. 3. Chromate Process: For Fur Shapes and Hats which are stiffened after dyeing: Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, ER, WS, [WG, 3G Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL Anthracene Chromate Red Y Anthracene Chromate Grey G Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chromate Blue XR, MGG Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra. For dyeing directions see page 119. For light Shades on Shapes or Settled Felts to be dyed in a milling or sizing machine, the follow- ing dyestuffs are used: For light beige, drab, etc.: The Anthracene Colours indicated under 1 and 3. For light grey: Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chrome Blue G shaded if necessary with Formyl Violet S4B — 10B Brilliant Milling Blue B in combination with ochre, graphite or talc. # Dyestuffs for Red on Fezzes.* See instructions on page 70. * The combinations which are dyed direct in an acid bath are indicated on page 105 of our “Manual of Dyeing”, Yol. II (No. 2989). 122 Dyestuffs for Hat Dyeing. Dyestuffs for Green and Olive on Fur Felt.* 1. After-Chroming Method: For Wool and Fur Shapes: Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Blue G Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Yellow BN, RN Anthracene Acid Brown G Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Chrome Brown D, DWN Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra brightened if necessary with Tetra Cyanole A Brilliant Milling Green B Cheaper Combinations: Tetra Cyanole A Anthracene Yellow BN Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Chrome Brown DWN. For dyeing directions see page 118. 2. Chromed Wool: For fully milled soft or stiffened Wool and Fur Hats: Combinations of Anthracene Chrome Blue G Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Yellow BN, RN Anthracene Acid Brown G Anthracene Chrome Red A Anthracene Chrome Brown SWN Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, WS, WG Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra shaded if necessary with Tetra Cyanole A Brilliant Milling Green B. Cyanole Fast Green G. For dyeing directions see page 119. * The combinations which are dyed direct in an acid bath are indicated on page 120 of our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. II (No. 2939). 123 Dyestuffs for Hat Dyeing. 3. Chromate Process: For Fur Shapes and Hats which are stiffened after dyeing: Combinations of Anthracene Chromate Green KFF extra Anthracene Blue Black C Anthracene Chromate Grey G Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Chromate Yellow KL, GG Anthracene Chromate Brown EB, ER, WS, [WG, 3G Alizarine Brilliant Green G, SE Tetra Cyanole A Brilliant Milling Green B. For dyeing directions see page 119. 124 Dyestuffs for Hat Dyeing. Dyestuffs for Blue and Violet on Hat Felt.* 1. After-Chroming Method: For Wool and Fur Shapes: Anthracene Acid Blue ER, EB Anthracene Chrome Blue FR, BB, R Anthracene Chrome Violet B saddened if necessary with Anthracene Blue Black C, BE or brightened with Brilliant Milling Blue B Formyl Violet S4B — 10B For dyeing directions see page 118. 2. Chromed Wool: For ready-milled soft or stiffened Wool and Fur Hats: Anthracene Chrome Blue RRW extra, BW extra, G, R, BB Anthracene Chrome Violet B. For dyeing directions see page 119. 3. Chromate Process: For Fur Shapes and Hats which are stiffened after dyeing: Anthracene Chromate Blue XR Anthracene Chromate Blue MGG shaded with Formyl Violet S4B — 10B Brilliant Milling Blue B, further Anthracene Chrome Blue RRW extra. For dyeing directions see page 119. * The combinations which are dyed direct in an acid bath are indicate^ on pages 123 and 124 of our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. II (No. 2939), 125 Dyestuffs for Hat Dyeing. Dyestuffs for Black Fur or Wool Hats stiffened, soft or to be stiffened and alkali-cleared. * 1. A f t e r - C h r o m i n g Method: For Blue-Black: Hat Chrome Black B Anthracene Chrome Black 5B Anthracene Acid Black DNG. For Deep Black: Hat Chrome Black BT Anthracene Chrome Black F Anthracene Acid Black ST, DSF, DSN, DSFB, shaded if necessary with Hat Chrome Black B Anthracene Chrome Black 5B or Brilliant Milling Blue B Brilliant Milling Green B Tetra Cyanole A Anthracene Acid Blue ER, EB Anthracene Yellow BN. For dyeing directions see page 119. 2. Dyed in an acid bath without after- chroming: For cheaper Blacks produced in the simplest manner: Alphanol Black BG, R, 3BN shaded if necessary with Alphanol Blue BR extra Brilliant Milling Blue B Brilliant Milling Green B Naphtol Dark Green G. For dyeing directions see page 120. * The combinations which are dyed direct in an acid bath are indicated on pages 126 and 127 of our “Manual of Dyeing”, Vol. II (No. 2939). 126 Without guarantee. m noiTs Gti1> CENTER iidh/uvV i’* JL