Digitized by the Internet Archive 
 in 2014 
 
 https://archive.org/details/sixvoyagesofjohnOOtave_0 
 

 np C 
 1 H E O I X 
 
 VOYAGES 
 
 
 O F 
 
 John Baptifta 
 TAVERN 11- R. 
 
 A Noble IVIan of France now living, 
 
 
 THROUGH 
 
 Cttrk? into $erfta, 
 
 AND THE 
 
 EAST-INDIES. 
 
 Tinifhedin the Year 1670. 
 
 GIVING AN 
 
 Account of the State of thofe Countries. 
 
 
 Illuftrated with divers Sculptures. 
 
 logetner with a F«ew KeJation of the Prefent 
 
 Grand Seizor's SERAOT TO 
 
 By the fame Author. 
 
 
 Made Englifti by J. P. 
 
 
 To which is added 
 A Defcription of all the Kingdoms which Encompafs the 
 
 Euxine and Caspian Seas. 
 By an Englijb Traveller, never before Printed. 
 
 
 LONDON: 
 Printed for R. L. and M. T. and are to be fold by John Star key at the 
 Miter in Fleet-jlreet, near Temple Bar, and Mops Tin at the 
 An^el in St. Taufs Churrh-Tir^ 1678. 
 
ft • ~f 
 
 J 
 
t*3 
 
 TO THE 
 
 RIGHT HONOURABLE 
 S r Thomas Davies, K r 
 
 Lord Mayor of the City of L o n d o n. 
 
 My Lord, 
 
 T cannot be thought 
 that the Author of thefe 
 Travels had he not ve- 
 rily believd that there- 
 by he had eminently 
 fervd his King and 
 Country, would have 
 adventur'd a Dedication to fo great a 
 Monarch as the King of France : Wherein 
 he prefumes to tell him, that he was the 
 perfon that had brought him from the I//- 
 ^wthefairett Jewels that at prefent adorn 
 his Crown^for which & feveral other fer- 
 vices done the Kingdom, His M ty honou- 
 red him with theTitle of No He. And indeed 
 it is not probable that a Potentate fo wife 
 and fo difcerning, had he not been con- 
 vinc'dof the merit and good fervice of 
 his Subject, would have receiv'd him with 
 that efteem, or have honour'd him with 
 
 A that 
 
[ 2 ] 
 
 that Title which he beftow d upon him. 
 As for theTruth of what is here compriz'd, 
 there is his own Afleverationtohis Prince 
 of theExa£tnefs which he has obfervd itl 
 that particular ^ which there is the lefs 
 reafon to mildoubt, in regard he has been 
 publick in the World for fome time with- 
 out the leaft blemifh of Contradi£tion. 
 Be pleas'd then, My, Lord to conlider the 
 quality of this Work, and as you are in 
 high Dignity, governing that Famous 
 City which has fo great a fhare in the 
 Traffick of the Oriental world , vouch- 
 fafe it your acceptance, as it is now made 
 ferviceable to this City and the whole 
 Nation by 
 
 My Lord 
 
 Tour Lordfbips 
 
 mofi obedient Servant 
 
 J Phillips. 
 
T O 
 
 THE MOST ACCOMPLISH'®, 
 
 AND 
 
 EMINENTLY LEARNED 
 
 D R DANIEL COX, 
 
 Dodor of PHYSICK. 
 
 SIR, 
 
 \lnce 'tis the Mode of the Age , that no 
 Boo\ comes forth without a Dedication, 
 I hope I (hall not he blamd for addref 
 fing thefe Travels to your Self 5 as 
 heing the Ferfon that has contributed 
 fo much to the Ornament and PerfeBion of the whole 
 Wor\. Hereby have I favd the labour of making 
 Encomiums upon an Author , of whom Ton have 
 teHifid your Approbation , by the Encouragement 
 Tou gave the Publifber. Nor is it reasonable, that 
 Tavernier coming into England, jhould prefer 
 others before a perfon that hath (hewd him particular 
 fyndneffes. For my part, after I had taJ(n a ProfyeB 
 of your perfonal Candor, 1 bpew not where to give fo 
 choice a Stranger better Accommodation : not without 
 fome regard to my felf ; ft nee I could not thinly that 
 
 a 2 he 
 
The Epiftle Dedicatory. 
 
 he who bad been fo fynd to the Original Author > would 
 be an Enemy to his Interpreter. Vpon which [core, 
 as I prefum 'd at firtf h I -hope Ton will pardon the far* 
 tber preemption of Styling my felf 9 
 
 Sir, 
 
 Your moft Humble Servant, 
 
 J. PHILLIPS. 
 
 THE 
 
THE 
 
 DESIGN 
 
 OF THE 
 
 AUTHOR. 
 
 Where he gives a brief Relation of his firfl Travels through the 
 hefl farts of Europe as far as Conftantinoplc. 
 
 F the effect of Education may be liken'd to a feeond 
 Birth , I may truly fay , that I came into the World 
 with a defire to travel. The daily difcourfes 
 which feveral Learned men had with my Father 
 upon Geographical fubjeds, which my Father had 
 the reputation of underftanding very well, and to 
 which , though very young , I was with muchi 
 delight attentive , infpir'd me betimes with a defign 
 to fee fome part of thole Countries, which were reprefented to. me 
 in the Maps , from which I never could keep off my Eyes. . By two; 
 and twenty years of Age , therefore I had feen the faireft Regions of 
 Europe j France, England, the Low Countries, Germany, Switzerland, 
 Poland, Hungary, and/^/y; and I fpake indifferently well the Langua- 
 ges moft necelTary and moft generally fpoken. 
 
 My firft fally was into England, where at that time Reigned King 
 James • from thence I pafs'd into Flanders to fee Antwerp, my Father's 
 Native Country , and lb into the Low Countries , where my inclination 
 to travel became the ftronger , by reafon of the great concourfe of Stran- 
 gers which I met at ^Amjlerdam , that crouded thither from all parts of 
 the World. 
 
 Having feen what was moft confiderable in the united Provinces I 
 Ipafs'dinto Germany, and when I came to Norimbergh , by the way of 
 Frankfort and ^'ufpur^h , the noife of the Armies that were marchiqg 
 into Bohemia to retake Prague , inftill'd into me a defire to go to the 
 Wars , where I might learn fomething that might be ufeful to me in the 
 feries of my travels. I was not above a days journey from Norimbergh, 
 when I met a Colonel of Horfe, whole name was Hans Br ener , the 
 Son of Philip Br ener , Governourof Vienna, who engag'd me to follow, 
 him into Bohemia, Sometime after I bore the fame Colonel company 
 10 Vignna, who prefented me to the Governourof Raab , his Uncle, 
 then Viceroy of Hungary alio-, who receiv'd me into his Family as one 
 of his Fages. For it is a ufual thing in Germany for Gentlemen's Sons ; 
 tofervein that quality 'till five and twenty years of age, and feldom 
 to quit that fervice , 'till they have a Commiflion for a Cornet, or 
 Enfigns place. Four years and a half I ferv'd the Viceroy , when the. 
 Prince of Mantua came to Vienna , to engage the Emperour in certain 
 
 [ ~] defigns 
 
The Design of 
 
 defignsof his own without fuccefs. At that time the Count of \Are , 
 whofe Sifter the Viceroy had Marry'd, was chief Minifter to the Prince 
 of CM. ant ha; and coming to vifit the Viceroy at 'javarin , I was ap- 
 pointed to attend him during his ftay there. Upon his departure , he 
 told the Viceroy , that the Prince of CMantua had no perfon about him 
 that underftood the Language , and that therefore he might be lure that 
 the Prince would take it for agrear kindnefs, to permit me to attend 
 his perfon during his ftay at the Emperours Court. This was a thing 
 eafily granted to the Count of exfhr; who thereupon carry 'd one along 
 with him to Vienna , where having had the good fortune not to difpleaie 
 the Prince, he teftify'd to me at his departure, that hefhould be glad 
 to fee me at CMantua , where he would not forget the fervices I had 
 done him. This prefently infus'd into me adehreof feeing Italy, efpe- 
 cially u£6ri the opportunity that offer'd ir feif not long after. 
 
 For Monfieur de Sabran , the King of Frances Envoy to his Impe- 
 rial Majefty , being to go for Venice , and defirous of one that under- 
 ftood the German Language to bear him Company, I laid hold of the 
 occafion^ fothat in eight days we got to Venice. While we ftay 'd at 
 Venice , I took a view to my great latisfa&ion , of that moft Celebra- 
 ted City, and in regard it is in many things like lOK^mfterdam^ as in 
 Situation , Greatnefs , Magnificence , Commerce , and Concourfe of 
 Strangers, my being there did but ftill reinforce my inclination to 
 Travel. 
 
 From Venice I went to CMantua with Monfieur de Sabran, w T here 
 the Prince being glad to fee me again , gave me my choice of an Enfign, 
 or of a place in the Company of the Ordonnance of the Duke his Father. 
 I accepted the latter , as being glad to be under the Command of the 
 Conde de G niche , who was then Captain. At the Siege of CMantua 
 I had like to have been flain, but for the goodnefs of a Cuirafs which I 
 had chofen out of the Princes Magazin, being hit with two Bullets 
 above and upon the left pap , which had enter d , had not my Arms 
 been excellent proof : So that after I was recover'd of my Bruifes 5 a 
 longer ftay at Mantua did not agree with my defire to travel. 
 
 Therefore fome time after the Siege was rais'd , I took leave of the 
 Prince, who gave me an honourable Pafs, by vertue whereof five or fix 
 Horfe-men bore me Company back to Venice, From Venice I went to 
 Lauretta , from Lauretta to Rome , from Rome to Naples , from whence 
 returning to Rome again, I ftay'd there ten or twelve days. After that 
 I went to fee Florence, Pifa, Ligorn, and Genoa, from whence I Embark'd 
 for Marseilles. 
 
 From Marseilles I halted to Paris , where I could not ftay long ; for 
 being defirous to fee Poland, Ipafs'd once more into Germany through 
 Switzerland, after I had tak'n a furvey of the principal Towns of the 
 Cantons. I went by the Rhine by Water , to vifit Strasburgh and Brifack; 
 thence by Land crofling Suabia , I patTed through Ulme and ^fujpurgh 
 to go to Munich. There I faw the Magnificent Palace of the Dukes 
 of Bavaria, which William the fifdi began , and which Maximilian his 
 Son finifti'd , in the heat of the Wars that troubl'd the Empire. From 
 thence I went the fecond time to Norimbergh , and Prague , and leaving 
 Bohemia I enter'd into Silefia , and pafs 'd the Oder at Breflavc. From 
 Breflaw I went to Cracovia , one of the greateft Cities of Europe , or 
 rather a Town compos'd of three Cities ; the ancient Seat of the King 
 
^ AUTHOR. 
 
 of Poland. From thence, keeping the VtftuU upon the left hand, I 
 went to tvarfave , and faw there the Court of King sigifmund , which 
 is a noble and fplendid Habitation. 
 
 From war faw I return'd to BreJIaw, taking the Road toward the Lower 
 Silefia, defigningto vifitoneof the principal Officers of the Emperours 
 Houfhold, who was my particular acquaintance. But about two 
 Leagues from Glogaw , meeting with Colonel Butler , a scotch Gentle- 
 man , Colonel of one of the Emperours Regiments of Horfe, who 
 afterwards kiU'd mlefleyne in purluance of the Orders he receiv'd , I 
 gave over my firft intended journey. His Wife was a great lover of 
 the French, lb that being earneftly obliged by both together, I could 
 not withftand the teft'imonies of their kindnefs. There I underftood 
 that the Emperour was going to Ratubone with his Son Ferdinand the 
 Third, to Crown him King of the Romans^ fo that I, who had feen 
 the Coronations of the Kings of Hungary and Bohemia , being defirous 
 to fee the third Solemnity alio , took leave of my Colonel , and halted 
 to Ratubone. 
 
 At that time arriv'd to Ratiibone feveral Jewellers , one of which 
 came to his end by an accident fo tragical, that all the whole Court 
 pity'd his untimely fate. He was the only Son of one of the richeft 
 Merchants of Europe, that liv'd in Frankfort , whofe Father had fent 
 him with Jewels to fell at the Coronation. For fear of being Robb'd 
 he had convey'd them before into the hands of a Jew in Ratisbone , his 
 Correfpondent, to be deliver'd to his Son at his coming. This young 
 man arriving at RatUbonc , went to the Jew, who told him that he had 
 receiv'd a fmall Casket of Jewels from his Father , which he might take 
 away , when he pleas'd. At the fame time the Jew invited the young 
 man to drink , and carry 'd hiintto a publick Houfe upon the Key of the 
 City, where they continu'd 'till about an hour after day was fliut in. 
 -. At this time, both going out together, the Jew led the young man 
 through a private Street where few people pals'd by , and there having 
 ftab'd him five or fix times in the Belly with a Dagger , left him 
 wallowing in his Blood. A while after, one of the Emperour's 
 Trumpets going that way in the dark , ftumbl'd at the Legs of the 
 unfortunate youth , who ftill breath'd, and fell upon his Body. At firft 
 feeling his hands wet , he thought it had been fome drunken fellow tint 
 hadeas'd his ftomach; but upon fecond thoughts, imagining it might 
 be fome wounded perfon , he ran and call'd the Officers , who coming 
 with Lanthorns , beheld the tragick fpedbcle of a young man weltring 
 in his own gore. Thereupon the Officers carrying the Body to the 
 fame publick Houfe, as being next at hand , his face was no fboner 
 wafh'd , but the Woman and Maid of the Houfe knew him to be the 
 fame young man that had been there drinking with the Jew not long 
 before. But as for the young man he prefently expir'd , without being 
 able to make the leaft difcovery. However the Jew was feiz'd that 
 evening,* and being feiz'd , confefs'd the Crime. The Imperial Laws 
 ordain, that a Jew for killing a chnfiian mould be hung upon a Gibbet by 
 the Heels , and that two fierce Dogs fhould be hung by him in the fame 
 manner,- to the end, that the Dogs in their madnels Ihould tear out 
 his Bowels. But the Jews made fuch prefents to the Emprefs that the 
 Sentence was chang'd , though the punilhment was not much lefs 
 rigorous. For his flelh was torn with red hot Pincers from feverai 
 
 C 2 3 , p-^ts 
 
The Design of 
 
 parts of his body , in feveral Streets of the Gity , and boyling Lead 
 pour'd into the raw wounds • after which he was broken alive upon 
 the wheel , at the publick place of Execution. 
 
 Being upon my departure from Ratisbone , I met with Father Jofeph , 
 Refident there for the King of France, who knowing me in Paris , pro- 
 pos'd to me to go along with the Monfieur, the Abbot of chapes, Bro- 
 ther of the Marflial de ^iumont , and Monfieur St. Liebau, who were 
 then intending for Conjlantinople , and fo for Palejline. I lik'd the propo- 
 rtion well , and immediately put my felf into the Society of thole two 
 Gentlemen, from whom I never leparated 'till they departed fox Syria 
 from Constantinople. 
 
 But before we Mt Germany , we refolv'd to fee the Court of Savony , 
 whither we got in a few days. By the way we pafs'd through Frey- 
 bergb , a fmall City , but well worth feeing , for the beauty of the 
 Electors Tombs , and moft fplendid and magnificent both for Materials 
 and Workmanfhip in all Europe. From thence we went and view'd 
 the ftately Caftle of K^4uguft burgh , feated upon a high Mountain, where- 
 in among other things there is a great Hall, adorn'd from top to bot- 
 tom with nothing but Horns faften'd to the Wall ; among the reft is 
 the Head of a Hare with two Horns, fent the Elector by the King of 
 Denmark for a great Rarity. In one of the Courts of the Palace ftands 
 a Tree fo large in Body , and fpreading out the Branches at fo wide a 
 diftance , that they will cover three hundred fixty five Tables with 
 their fhade. And that which makes this Tree more wonderful is , that 
 it is only Birch, that rarely grows to thatlmmenfity. 
 
 Drefde is the Refidence of the Elector , a little City , but a very neat 
 one, and well fortify 'd ; with a Stone Bridge over the Elbe, that parts 
 the Old and New Town. The Palace is one of the largeft and faireft 
 in Germany. But it wants a Piazza before it , the principal Gate (lan- 
 ding juft at the bottom of a narrow Lane. 
 
 From Drefde we went to Prague , which was a third time that I faw 
 that great and fair City, or rather three Cities together, only fepara- 
 ted by the Mo/da,thax throws it felf into the Elbe 0 fome five or fix Leagues 
 below. 
 
 Having travers'd Bohemia, and touch'd upon the corner of Moravia, 
 we enter'd ^Auflria , and came to Vienna , refplving there to Embark 
 with all fpeed , becaufe the Winter came on. 
 
 We ftay'd one day at Prcsburgh to fee the great Church , and 
 fome Relicks which they fhew'd us , and from thence fell down to 
 i^Altenburgh. 
 
 K^iltenburgh is a City and Province belonging to the Count of 
 K^Arach. It was the Childs part of one of the Queens of Hungary , 
 who upon her death-bed bequeathed it to one of the Lords of her 
 Court , upon condition that he and his Succeffors fhould always keep 
 fuch a number of Peacocks ; for defect whereof , the Territory fhould 
 revert to the Crown. 
 
 Thence we came to Signet , from whence I took a little Boat and 
 hafted to Raab , where I did my Devoirs to the Viceroy , who was glad 
 to fee me, and gave noble entertainment to the Mejfieurs de chapes, and 
 de St. Liebau. Here we ftay'd eight or ten days for the Bafha of Buda's 
 Anfwer, whether he would give liberty to two French Gentlemen, to 
 pafs with their Train through his Garrifon or no 5 which being return'd 
 
the AUTHOR. 
 
 fuch as we could defire , wc Embark'd at Comorra in a fort of Brigan- 
 tines well fitted for defence and convenience. 
 
 From Vienna, to Javarin we laid three days upon the water, by reafon 
 of the great turnings and windings of the Danarv. Leaving Javarin 
 we lay Comorra 5 and from Comorra we row'd to Buda in two days. 
 For the Road by Land is feldom travell'd , in regard that the Frontiers of 
 both Empires are full of Thieves and Boothaylers. In fair weather 
 you may go from Buda to Belgrade in lefs than eight days , but we were 
 forc'd to ftay longer upon the Water, in regard of the Cold wea- 
 ther. 
 
 It is the cuftom in Hungary, that in all Roads little frequented by 
 Strangers, not to take any Money of the Traveller; For the Burghers 
 lodge and entertain them civilly , for which the Burgo Mafter at the 
 years end repays them out of the publick ftock. But befides , that they 
 are not troubl'd with many paifengers ; Hungary , which is one of the 
 beft Countries in Europe ,- affords provifion at fo cheap a rate , that 
 to Belgrade it cofts us not above two Crowns a day for fourteen 
 people. 
 
 Bud* ftands upon tke right hand of the Danarv , about half an hours 
 travelling from the River. The Bajba being ad vis'd of our arrival, fent 
 his Squire with led Horfes , and feveral Slaves in very good Live- 
 ries to conduct us to the Town. And though we ftay'd twelve days 
 before we could fpeak with him , by reafon of his being fick at that 
 time, yet he allow'd us a fair provifion of Mutton, Pullets, Rice, 
 Butter , and Bread , and two Sequins 2. day for fmall expences. He 
 was a comely perfon , and of a handfom carriage • and at our depar- 
 ture , he fent fix Calejhes with two Spabi's to conduct us to Belgrade , 
 with order to defray our expences , which would by no means be 
 accepted. 
 
 Coming to Belgrade we found the Sangiai as rude , as we had found 
 the Bajha civil before. For he made a ridiculous demand of two hun- 
 dred Ducats a Head, and for fifteen days prolong'd the conteft. But 
 at length I fo terrify 'd him , by threatning to fend our Complaints to 
 the Ottaman Port , of his ill ufage of two Gentlemen , kinfmen to the 
 Embaffador of France, that he was contented with fifty Ducats for 
 all. Belgrade is fcituated upon a point of Land , where two great 
 Rivers , the Vanaxv and the Sava meet 5 and is furnifh'd with Wine , 
 Bread , and all forts of provifions at a cheap rate. 
 
 From Belgrade we took fome Saddle Horfes , fbme Coaches for Adri- 
 anople, as every one lik'd beft. We pafs'd thro ugh £0/^/4, a large and 
 well peopl'd City , the Metropolis of the ancient Bulgarians , and the 
 refidence of the Bajha of Romeli. In it ftands a fair Mofyuee y which 
 hath been a Chriftian Church, built with fo much Art, that three 
 men may go up to the top of the Steeple , and not fee one ano- 
 ther. 
 
 From Sophia we came to Pbilippoli, between which Town and Adri- 
 anople we met with two Troops of Tartars well mounted. When 
 they faw us , they made a Lane for us to pafs through them , with a 
 defign molt certainly to have fali'n upon us ; fince they could not 
 hope to do any good upon us , but by furprize and number • for they 
 were ill provided of Weapons, and we rarely well Arm'd. There- 
 upon we alighted and Barricado'd up our felves with our Chariots* 
 
The Design, of 
 
 In the mean time we fent our Spahts to the Commander of thofe Tartars, 
 to tell them , we would not ftir 'till they were gone , and that being 
 Souldiers as they were , they could not hope for any booty from us. 
 The Commander anfwer'd, that he had divided his men in that manner 
 only to do us Honour $ but fince we defir'd they fliould be gone , they 
 requeued us but to fend them a little Tobacco. A boon which we rea- 
 dily granted them , and fo we pafs'd on. 
 
 We came to Adrunople the three and twentieth day after we par- 
 ted from Belgrade, Adrianople takes its name from the Emperour 
 Adrian, being formerly call'd Orejles. It is pleafantly fituatedat the 
 mouth of three Rivers that throw themfelves into the Archipelago. 
 The old Town is not very big, but the Turks dayly enlarge the Sub- 
 urbs, being a place which the Grand Stgnors very much delight in for 
 thepleafures of Hunting and Hawking, efpecially at the wild Duck 
 and Heron. 
 
 The fifth day after we departed from Adri ample , and the forty 
 fecond after we departed from Vienna , we happily arriv'd at Conjlan- 
 tinople, and eroding through the City over to Galata, went to the 
 Ambaffador's Houfe. While we ftay'd there to "winter, we made a 
 fmall Voyage to the DardaneUs, to the Ruins of Troy, where we be- 
 held nothing but Stones, not worth the while of going fo far to fee. 
 Another day we took three Barks andSail'dto Calcedon , that lies upon 
 the Sea. There is in it a very ancient Church and they fliew'd us the 
 Room where the Council was held , with the fame Chairs which 
 were then made ufe of. Now it is only a Monaftery, where two 
 Biftiops after they had ihew'd us what they could } handfomjy enter- 
 tain'd us. 
 
 Then we went to view Pompefs Pillar at the mouth of the Black 
 Sea. Concerning the Channel of which Sea, I muft make one Ob- 
 fervation 5 that though there be no part of the Sea but has one 
 Current, yet this has two quite contrary one to another. That 
 part next to Europe carries the Velfel to the Black Sea; and that 
 next Afjia brings it back again to the ^Mediterranean. So that 
 you have no more to do but to crofs over from one Shore to the 
 other. 
 
 The Winter being over, the two French Gentlemen purfu'd their 
 Voyage for Alexandres a. But for my part, I having another defign 
 in my head , ftay'd at Conjlantinople , in expectation of a Caravan , 
 which the people told me from Month to Month was coming. I was 
 then ignorant , and did not underftand that every year there were five 
 or fix Caravans that went from Bur fa. Befides , that fometimes eight 
 or ten Merchants travelling together, might go fafe to JjpJjan. 
 Which ignorance of mine made me (fay longer than I intended. At 
 length , after I had continu'd eleven Months in Conjlantinople , I de- 
 parted with a fair and numerous Caravan for Jjpahan , which was the 
 firft time I travell'd into Afia. After that I made five others, wherein 
 I had time better to underftand the Qualities of thei Countries , and 
 the Genius of the People* The three lalt times I went beyond Gau- 
 ges , to the Ifland of Java ; fo that for the fpace of forty years , I 
 have travell'd above fixty thoufand Leagues by Land 5 never retur- 
 ning but once into Europe by Sea. And thus in my fix Voyages , 
 and by travelling different Roads > I had the leifure and opportunity 
 
 to 
 
the AUTHOR; 
 
 to fee all furky zWPerfta, and all India; particularly the famous 
 Diamond Mines, where no European had been before me. Of thefe 
 three great Empires therefore have I refolv'd to make an ample and 
 exacl: Delcnption : and I will begin with the feveral Roads which 
 may be taken from Paris into Perfia. ~ 
 
 Thefe 
 
 l f A 
 
 Place the Cuts as they are Paged. 
 
 PERSIAN Travels. 
 
 THe Spear, 'Tag. 13. 
 Coraouchs , p. 129. 
 Candahar, p. 258* 
 
 Erivan, p. 15. Money of Perfia, p. 51. Bagdat, p 87. 
 Perfian Seals, p. 178, 179. Gomrom , p. 257; 
 
 C9 Cuts.2 
 
 INDIAN Travels. 
 
 LArinsj Money of the Great Mogul, of a King, and two Raja's. T^. z 
 Pieces of Cold called Pagods , p. 5. Money of Beda, Pera, Achen, Siam, p. 7. 
 China Money, p. 8. Japon Money, p. 9. Silver Ingots of Japon , and representing 
 then Signs, p. 10. Portugals Mufcovy , p. 13. Stones, Diamonds, p. 148. 2 Cuts 
 more* p. 149* Balais Rubies , p. 150. Pearls, p. 150. Musk Cat, p. 153. Faquirs 
 Tree, p. 1 66. Faquir, p. 167 C14 C«wJ 
 
Thefe Computations are made, luppofing a French Crown to be in value 
 Sterling 54 pence, or ^s. 6,d. the reputed Par , and that 1 2 Denier s 
 
 r make a Sous, 20 Sous a. Ltver ; whereof 3 make an Efcu. By which 
 Computation 10 Som is in value 9//. and 10 Denier s 3 q. 
 
 Terfmn Money. 
 
 A 
 
 Baft 
 
 3 Abafli's^W 1 Chalet — 
 
 2 Mamoudi's » 
 
 2 Chayets • 
 
 Casbeke Simple 
 
 Double Casbeke ■ 
 
 Bifti 1 — 
 
 Chayets 1 
 
 1 Or 
 
 1 Toman 
 
 French. 
 
 18 Sous, 6 Deniers 
 
 1 Ecu — 
 
 1 Abafli 
 
 1 Mamoudi 
 
 5 Deniers, 1 Half-peny 
 
 1 1 Deniers 
 
 2 Double Casbeke's . 
 
 5 Double Casbeke's 
 
 5 
 
 Abafli's 
 
 46 Livers, 1 Denier, j Piafter 
 
 Englijh. 
 
 *♦ D, q. 
 
 O OI 04 2 J j 
 
 o 04 06 
 01 04 of 
 00 08 o " 
 00 01 
 00 03 
 00 06 
 00 04 
 06 II 
 09 00 
 
 s 
 
 07 
 1 r 
 
 °\ 
 1 
 
 07 
 
 Ax 
 
 o o 
 
 ii 
 
 00 
 o o 
 
 Indian Money. 
 
 Arins 
 
 JL/ Demi-Larins 
 Roupy of Gold - 
 Roupy of Gold - 
 
 Pecha ■ 
 
 Half Roupy 
 
 10 
 
 Quarter of a Roupy 
 
 Pagods 
 
 Fano's 6 
 
 Cheda Money 1. 2. 
 
 Cheda 3. 4. . 
 
 Achen Gold 
 
 Macaffar Gold 
 
 Camboya Silver — 
 
 Siam Gold -— 
 
 Siam Silver 
 
 Afem Silver - 
 
 Tipoura Silver • 
 
 Arakan Money 
 
 Pegu Silver 
 
 Gold Fanos 15. ■ — 
 
 Afem Fanos 22. 
 
 China Goltfchut 
 
 China Silver -pieces — 
 Japon Gold, N° t. 
 
 N° 2. 3. 
 Japon Silver pieces — 
 Silver Ingots, N° 1. 
 
 2. 
 3- 
 4- 
 
 5- 
 6. 
 
 7- 
 8. 
 
 A Telle 
 
 Mufcovy Gold • 
 Mufcovy Silvir 
 
 French. 
 
 1 Ecu French, within 8 Sous — 
 
 Half ai much — — 
 
 21 Livers . , 
 
 30 Sous — n : 
 
 6 Deniers « — . 
 
 16 Sous . 
 
 7 Sous, 6 Deniers ■ 
 
 Demi-Piftol (in Gold 
 is 1 1 Livers) 
 
 1 Ecu 
 
 2 Sous — — ■ ■ — 
 
 4 Deniers 
 
 16 Sous, 8 Deniers 
 23 Sous, 8 Deniers 
 
 4 Sous — 
 
 7 Livers, 1 Sous — 
 32 Sous, 4 Deniers - 
 
 23 Sous ~ 
 
 25 Sous 
 
 21 Sous 
 
 20 Sous, 6 Deniers 
 x Real 
 
 1 Ecu • 
 
 a Piftol£ 
 
 Englifli. 
 
 U *. D« 
 
 o 03 10 
 
 0 01 11 
 
 1 II 06 
 
 o 02 03 
 o 00 00 
 o 01 02 
 o 00 06 
 
 o 08 03 
 
 3 T 
 
 1 1 
 
 1 3 50 Livers 
 
 59 Sous , 8 Deniers . 
 
 87 Livers, 10 Sous • — 
 
 29 Livers, 3 1 Sous, 4 Deniers — 
 
 30 Sous • « 
 
 24 Livers , 1 o Sous • 
 
 8 Livers, 10 Sous, 7 Deniers — 
 
 4 Livers, 5 Sous, 5 Deniers 
 
 3 Livers, 10 Sous, 1 1 Deniers — 
 
 3 Livers, 8 Sous, 8 Deniers 
 
 1 Liver, 5 Sous, 1 Denier 
 
 1 Liver, 9 Deniers 
 
 16 Sous, 4 Deniers • 
 
 4 Livers, 5 Sous ■ 
 
 20 Sous, 1 Denier, 1 Half-peny — 
 1 Sous « . — • 
 
 0 04 06 
 
 0 
 
 00 
 
 01 3 J 
 
 0 
 
 00 
 
 00 1 f 
 
 0 
 
 01 
 
 03 
 
 0 
 
 01 
 
 09 1 i 
 
 0 
 
 00 
 
 03 2 i. 
 
 0 
 
 10 
 
 ^ s 
 06 3 f 
 
 0 
 
 02 
 
 OS Of 
 08 2 4 
 
 0 
 
 01 
 
 0 
 
 01 
 
 07 3 f 
 
 0 
 
 01 
 
 06 3 | 
 
 0 
 
 01 
 
 06 1 f 
 
 0 
 
 04 04 
 
 0 04 06 
 
 101 
 
 05 
 
 OO 
 
 0 
 
 04 05 2 A 
 
 6 
 
 1 1 
 
 03 
 
 2 
 
 05 
 
 IO I 
 
 0 
 
 02 
 
 03 
 
 1 
 
 16 
 
 09 
 
 0 
 
 12 
 
 O9 2 *S 
 
 0 
 
 06 
 
 
 0 
 
 °S 
 
 03 3 7 i 
 
 0 
 
 05 
 
 OI 3 j 
 
 0 
 
 01 
 
 
 0 
 
 01 
 
 06 2 ri 
 
 0 
 
 01 
 
 02 2 f 
 
 0 
 
 06 
 
 04 2 
 
 0 
 
 01 
 
 06 o r £ 
 
 0 
 
 00 
 
 OO 3 f 
 
 THE 
 
THE 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 Perfian Travels. 
 
 The Firft Book of Monfieur TAVE%KlE<I£s Verfun 
 Travels. Of the feveral Roads from Paris to Iftahan the 
 chief City of Terfia } through the Northern Provinces 
 of Turky. 
 
 Chap. I. F the Roads from France to the hither parts of Afia , and 
 
 i 1 the places from whence they usually fet out for I(pa- 
 han. Pag. i 
 
 Chap. II. Of the Road from Conftantinople to Ifpahan , which the 
 
 Author kept in his firft Travels into Perfia. 2 
 Chap. III. A continuation of the Road from Conftantinople to Ilpahan, 
 
 from the Borders of Perfia to Erivan. 10 
 Chap. IV. A continuation of the fame Road from Erivan to Tauris. 15 
 Chap. V. A continuation of the Conftantinopolitan Road from Tauris 
 
 to Ifpahan , through Ardeiiil and Cafbin. 24 
 Chap. VI. The ordinary Road /row Tauris ^Ifpahan, through Zangan ^ 
 
 Sultany, and other places. 26 
 Chap. VII. of the Road from Smyrna to Ifpahan, through Natolia. 32 
 Chap. VIII. How the ^Author wm rob'd near Tocat , and of a certain 
 
 fort of a rare and fine Wool , which he fir ft brought into France. 40 
 Chap- IX. Of the Road from Kerman to Ifpahan 5 and the fortune of 
 
 Hazar Mahomet-Aii-Beg. 42 
 Chap. X. Of the Caravanfera's, and Government of the Caravans. 45 
 Chap. XL Of the breeding , nature , and feveral forts of Camels. 49 
 Chap. XII. Of the Coyns and CAloney of Perfia. 50 
 
 The Second Book of the ferfian Travels of Monfieur 
 TAVE%HlET^ y containing the feveral Roads from 
 Tar is to JJpahan ,* the Capital City of ferfia , through 
 the Southern Provinces of Turky , and through the 
 
 Deferts, 
 
 Chap. I. r T^Ue fecond Voyage of the Author from Paris to Ifpahan, and 
 X frft of his Embarking at Marfeilles/i>r Alexandretta. 53 
 Chap. II. The Description of Aleppo, now the Capital City of Syria. 57 
 
 £ * ] Chap. 
 
The CONTENTS of 
 
 Chap. III. Of the [ever al Hoads in general from Aleppo to Ifpahan , 
 dnd particularly of the Road through the Great Defert. Pag. 60 
 
 Chap. IV. Of the Road from Aleppo to Ifpahan , through Mesopotamia 
 and Affyria, which I travell'd in my third Voyage to the Indies. 66 
 
 Chap. V. ^ Continuation of the Road from Nineveh to Ifpahan, toge- 
 ther rvitbtbe Story of an K^Ambaffador cali'd Dominico de Santis. 72 
 
 Chap. VI. Of the Road which the Author kept , when he travell'd the 
 fourth time into Aft , to go from Paris to Ormus. And frfl of his 
 Voyage from Marfeilles to Alexandretta. 78 
 
 Chap. VII. ^ Continuation of the Road which the Author kept in the 
 fourth Voyage into Afia , and particularly of his p^Jfage upon the Tigris from 
 Nineveh to Babylon. 82 
 
 Chap. VIII. <A Continuation of the Road from Bagdat /vBalfara, and 
 of the Religion of the Chrifians of St. John. 87 
 
 Chap. IX. of Continuation of the Road from Balfara to Ormus. 94 
 
 Chap. X. Of the Author's frfl Voyage , and the Adventures of the four 
 French-men. 95 
 
 The Third Book, of the Qerfian Travels of Monfieur 
 TAVE^JSil E^ containing the Author's Sixth and 
 Laft Voyages, and the Roads through Turky into 'Terfia, 
 through the Northern Provinces of Europe. With a 
 Deicription of feveral Countries , lying upon the 
 Black and Cafyian Seas. 
 
 Chap. L f~\F the Author's fixth and lafl Voyage from his fetting out of 
 Paris , to his Landing at Smyrna. 99 
 Chap. II. 0/ Continuation of the Authors fixth Voyage , as he travell'd ' 
 
 from Smyrna to Ifpahan. 102 
 Chap. III. The Road from Aleppo to Tauris, through Diarbequir and 
 Van. 103 
 Chap. IV. Another Road from Aleppo to Tauris, through Gezire and 
 other places. 108 
 Chap. V. The Road from Aleppo to Ifpahan through the Small Defert , 
 and through Kengavar. 109 
 Chap. VI. ^Another Road from Conftantinople to Ifpahan, by the Euxine 
 or Black Sea ; with fome Remarks upon the principal Cities thereabouts. 113 
 Chap. VII. The Road from Warfow to Ifpahan , over the Black Sea , 
 and from Ifpahan to Mofco^ with the names of the principal Cities and 
 lfands of Turky , according to the vulgar pronunciation , at they are 
 cali'd in the Language of the Turks, i 1 J 
 
 Chap. VIII. Remarks upon the Trade of the Ifland of Candy, and the 
 principal jfes of the Archipelago 5 as alfo upon fome of the Cities of 
 Greece adjoyning ; with a particular Relation of the prefent condition of 
 the Grand SignorV Galleys , belonging as well to the lfles as to the Conti- 
 nent ■.' 118 
 Chap. IX. Relation of the prefent State of Georgia. 123 
 Chap. X. 0/ Relation of the prefent State of Mengrelia. lay 
 Chap. XI. Of Comania, Circaflia, and of certain people which they call 
 Kalmouchs. 126 
 
 Chap. 
 
the Persian Travels. 
 
 Chap. XII. Of the Ceremonies and Cujloms of the people of Comania 
 and Circaflia. J2 
 
 Chap. XIII. Of the leffer Tartars , caU'd Nogaies , bordering upon 
 Comania. 
 
 The Fourth Book of the Travels of Monfieur 
 TAVE^KIE^ being a Defcription of Perfia. 
 
 Chap. I. £~\ F the Extent of Perfia , and its Divifion into Provin- 
 
 Chap. II. Of the Flowers and Fruits /Perfia, of Turquoises and Pearls. 144. 
 Chap. III. Of the Beafls of Service , of the Fiflj and Fowl of Perfia* 145 
 Ch p. IV. Of the manner of Building in Perfia. ' jTl 
 
 Chap. V. Defcription of Ifpahan , the chief City of the Kingdom 
 
 and Dominion of the King of Perfia. 1 4.8 
 
 Chap. VI. Of Zulpha , a City feparated from Ifpahan by the River 
 
 Senderou. 
 
 Chap. VII. ^ Of the Religion of the Perfians ; of the great Feafl of Hocen 
 and Huffein , and theCzmd-Feafl. ^ 
 
 Chap. VIII. Of the Religion of the Gaurs, the Relicks of the ancient 
 Perfians, Adorers of Fire. x ^ 
 
 Chap. IX. Of the Religion of the Armenians , and of their principal 
 Ceremonies ; and how the Armenians Confecrate and Adminifler the Sacra- 
 
 ment ' 169 
 Chap. X. Of the Ordination of their Priejlhood; and their Auflerities i 70 
 Cha k v. XI. Of their Baptifm. ' ' 
 
 Chap. XII. Of the Marriage of the Armenians. jl 2 
 Chap. XIII. How the Armenians Bury their Dead, llz 
 Chap. XIV. Examples of the Conflancy of the Armenians, in maintai- 
 ning their Religion againflthe Persecutions of the Mahometans. 17/* 
 Chap. XV. Of the Author's Reception at the Court of Perfia in hu Cixth 
 and lafl Voyage, and what he did there during his flay at Ifpahan. 177 
 Ch D. XVI. Of the Honours andPrefents which the Author received from 
 
 the King of Verba. J 
 Chap. XVII. How the King was pleai'd to divertife himfelf in the Author's 
 Company. l8j 
 
 The Fifth Book of the Verfian Travels of Monfieur 
 TAVE%KlE%^ being a Politick and Hiftorical 
 Defcription of Perfia, with the Roads from J§ahan 
 to Ormns. 
 
 Chap. I. p the Genealogy of the Kings of Perfia , of the lafl 
 V — / Rue. 
 
 Chap. II. Of certain particular Attions which denote the Virtues and Vices 
 of the Kings of Perfk", from Sha-Abas the firfl , to Sha-Soiiman the 
 prefent King. And firfl of Sha-Abas the Great. -, n ? 
 
 C * 2 ] Chap. 
 
The CONTENTS , &c. 
 
 Chap. ill. Of what fell out mojl memorable in the Reign of Sha-Sefi the 
 frjl ; and particularly of the Death of Iman-Kouli-Kan , and his three 
 Sons. Pag. 198 
 
 Chap. IV. The Tragical and memorable Story of Ralph Sadler, Native 
 of Zurich, in the Reign of Sha-Sefi , who had retain d him in his Ser- 
 vice. 2 cj 
 Chap. V. Of feme particulars under the Reign of Sha-Abas the (econd. 199 
 Chap. VI. Of the misfortune of Mahomet- Beg, in the Reign of 'Sha-Abas 
 the fecond. 212 
 Chap. VII. Of the Rebellion of the Prince of Jafque, aVaffal to the ' King 
 of Perfia, in the Reigns of Sha-Sefi the frjl, and Sha-Abas the fecond. 217 
 Chap. VIII. Obfervations upon the Reign of Sha-Solimon the prefent 
 King. 218 
 Chap. IX. Of the Government of Per fra. 219 
 Chap. X. Of the frjl of the three Orders or States ^Perfia, which 
 comprehends the King's Houjhold 3 the Kans or Cover nours of Provinces , 
 and the Sottldiery. 221 
 Chap. XI. Of the fecond Order , containing all thofe that belong to the 
 Ecclefiajlical Law , and their Courts of Juflice • and in general of all the 
 Gown-men, fuch as are chiefly the Officers of the Chamber of Accounts, 226 
 Chap. XII. Of the third Ejlate of the Kingdom^ comprehending the Trades- 
 men and Merchants ; as alfo the Trades , Manufactures } and Commodi- 
 ties of Perfia. 229 
 Chap. XIII. Of the juflice and Policy of the Perfians. 232 
 Chap. XIV. Of the Manners and Cufloms of the Perfians. 234 
 Chap. XV. Of the Difeafes of Perfia, and the manner of Curing them. 239 
 Chap. XVI. Of the Divifion of Time among the Perfians. 240 
 Chap. XVII. Of theFeaJls and ordinary Diet of the Perfians. 241 
 Chap. XVIII. Of the Marriages of the Perfians. 243 
 Chap. XIX. Of the Death and Burial of the Perfians. 244 
 Chap. XX. The Author departs from Ifpahan to Ormus , and defcribes 
 the Road to Schiras. 245 
 Chap. XXI. Of the City of Schiras. 247 
 Chap. XXII. v-xf Continuation of the Road from Ifpahan to Ormus, 
 from Schiras to Bander-Abafli. 251 
 Chap. XXIII. Of the ifland of Ormus , and of Bander-Abaffi. 225 
 Chap. XXIV. Of the Roads by Land from Calbin to Ifpahan, to the 
 frontiers of the Territories of the Great Mogul through Candahar. 257 
 
 THE 
 
THE 
 
 CONTENTS 
 
 OF THE 
 
 Indian Travels. 
 
 The Figures of the Pieces of Gold , Silver , and Copper . 
 and of the forts of Shells and Almonds that pafs for 
 Money over all Afia* 
 
 Tffe Money of Arabia. Pag. i 
 
 The Money currant under the Dominions of the Great Mogul, a 
 The Money of a King and two Raja's , all three Tributaries to 
 the Great Mogul. 5 
 
 Pieces of Gold called Pagods 5 which are currant in the Territories of 
 the King of Golconda , the King of Vifapour, the Great Raja of Carna- 
 tica, the Raja of Velouche, and at the Diamond Mines. a 
 
 The Money which the Englifh and Hollanders Coyn in the Indies. j 
 
 The Money of the King of Cheda and Pera. 6 
 
 The Money of Gold and Ttn of the King of Achen , with the Money in 
 Gold , Coyn d by the King of Macaffar , and the Celebes. \^4nd the Silver 
 And Coffer Money of the King of Camboya. 7 
 
 The Money in Gold, Silver, and Coffer , of the King of Sum. Ibid. 
 
 The Gold and Silver Money of the King of Afem, Tip.oura, Arakin , 
 and Pegu. 8 
 
 Lumps or Pieces of Gold and Silver , which go for Money in the Kingdom 
 of China , and the Kingdom of Tunquin. Ibid. 
 
 The Gold and Silver Money of Japon. p 
 
 The Portraiture of the Silver Ingots of Japon, which go for Money. Ibid. 
 
 CMoney that represents the Figures of the twelve Signs ; and which 
 were Coynd during the twenty four hours, that Jehan-Guir, King of the 
 Indies, permitted Queen Nourmahall , his Wife, to Reign in his fie ad, 10 
 
 The Gold , Silver , and Copper Money , which the Portugals Coyn in the 
 Eaft-Indies. 12 
 
 The Gold and Silver Money of Mufcovy, 13 
 
The CONTENTS of 
 
 The Firft Book of the INDIAN Travels. What 
 Roads to take in Travelling from Ifyahan to Agra, from 
 Agra to t)ehly and Gebanabat , where the Great Mogul 
 refides at prefent : And how to Travel alfo to the 
 Court of the King of Golconda 9 to the King of Vifa- 
 pour , and to many other places in the Indies. 
 
 Chap. I. ^T^He Road from Ifpahan to Agra through Comron , where is 
 J_ particularly defcrib'd the manner of Sailing from Or- 
 mus to Surat. Pag. 1 5 
 
 Chap. II. Of the Cufioms , Money, Exchange, might, and Measures of 
 
 the Indians. 17 
 Chap. III. Of their Carriages, and the manner of travelling India. 27 
 Chap. IV. The Road from Surat to Agra, through Brampour and Se- 
 
 ronge. 30 
 Chap. V. The Road from Surat to Agra, through Amadabat. 36 
 Chap. VI. The Road from Ifpahan to Agra , through Candahar. 43 
 Chap. VII. The continuance of the fame Road from Dehly to Agra. 48 
 Chap. VIII. The Road from Agra to Patna and Daca , Cities in the 
 
 Province of Bengala , and of the quarrel which the Author had with 
 
 Gha-Eft-Kan , the Kings Uncle. 5 1 
 
 Chap. IX. The Road from Surat to Golconda. 60 
 Chap. X. Of the Kingdom of Golconda , and the Wars which it has 
 
 maintain* d for fome few years lafi pafi. 63 
 Chap. XI. The Road from Golconda Maflipatan, or Mafalipatan. 69 
 Chap. XII. The Road from Surat to Goa, and from Goa to Golconda, 
 
 through Vifapour. 71 
 Chap. XIII. Observations upon the prefent State of the City of Goa. 74 
 Chap. XIV. what the Author did during his flay at Goa, the lafi time he 
 
 went thither , in the year 1648. 78 
 Chap. XV. The Story of Father Ephraim , and how he was put into the 
 
 Inquifition at Goa by a furprifal. 85 
 Chap. XVI. The Road from Goa to Maflipatan through Cochin , here 
 
 defcrib'd in the Story off the taking of that City by the Hollanders. 88 
 Chap. XVII. The parage by Sea from Ormus to Maflipatan. 90 
 Chap. XVIII. The Road from Maflipatan to Gondicot , a City andGar- 
 
 rifon in the Province of Carnatica ; and of the dealings which the Author 
 
 had with Mirgimola , who commanded the King of GolcondaV Army. 
 
 With a difcourfe at large concerning Elephants. 91 
 Chap. XIX. The Road from Gondicot to Golconda. 100 
 Chap. XX. The Author's return from Surat to Ormus. 105 
 
 The Second Book of the INDIAN Travels. 
 Containing an Hiftorical and Political Defcription of 
 the Empire of the Great Mogul 
 
 Chap. I. A Relation of the lafi Wars of IndoR^n^which gives an infight into 
 jfc\,the prefent Efiate of the Empire and Court of /^Moguls. 106 
 
 Chap. 
 
the Indian Travels. 
 
 Chap. II. Of the Sicknefland fuppofed Death of Cha-Jehan King of India, 
 and the Rebellion of the Princes his Sons. Pag. 10S 
 
 Chap. III. Of the I/nprifonment of Cha-Jehan, and hew he was punijh'd by 
 Aurenge-Zebe his third Son , for the injuflice he had done Prince Boulaki 
 his Nephew , the Grand child of Jehan- Guir , to whom as to the Son of the 
 .Eldejl Son , the Empire of the Mogul belong d. ! l x 
 
 Chap. IV. Of the flight of Dara-Cha to the Kingdom of Scindi and Gu- 
 Zerat, of the fecond battle which he fought againfl Aurenge-Zebe 0 his 
 being tak'n Prifiner , and Death. 114. 
 Chap. V. Huw Aurenge-Zebe cans' d himfelf to be declar'd King, and of 
 the flight of Sultan-Sujah. 116 
 Chap. VI. Of the I/nprifonment of Sultan-Mahomed , Aurenge-Zebe'* 
 Eldefl Son ; and of Sultm Soliman-Chekour£/^ Son ^Dara-Cha. 117 
 Chap. VII. Of the beginning of Aurenge-Zebe'* Reign, and the Death 
 of Cha-Jehan his Father* 120 
 Chap. VIII. Of the preparations againfl the Feafl of the Great Mogul , 
 when he is weigh' d folemnly every year. Of the Richnefs of his Thrones , 
 And the magnifcence of his Court. 122 
 Chap. IX. Some other obfervations upon the Court of the Great. Mogul. 124 
 Chap. X. Of the Commodities which are brought , as well out of the Domi- 
 nions of the Great- Mogul, as out of the Kingdoms c^Golconda and Vifapour, 
 and other Neighbouring Territories. 126 
 Chap. XI. Of Diamonds, and the Alines and Rivers where they are found; 
 
 and flrfl of the Author's 'journey to the Alines of Raolconda. 1 34 
 
 Chap. XII. The Author's 'journey to the other CMines ; and how they find 
 the Diamonds there. 137 
 Chap. XIII. Continuation of the Author's Travels to the Diamond 
 Klines. 13^ 
 Chap. XIV. Of the diver fity of Weights us'd at the Diamond Mines ; of 
 the pieces of Gold and Silver there currant ; and the Rule which they obferve 
 to know the price of Diamonds. 1 40 
 
 Chap. XV. The Rule to know the jufl price and value of a Diamond of 
 what weight foever , from three to a hundred , and upwards ; a Secret 
 known to very few people in Europe. 142 
 Chap. XVI. Of Colour d 6 tones, and the places where they are found. 137 
 Chap. XVII. Of Pearls, and the places where they fjh for them. 145 
 Chap. XVIII. How the Pearls are bred in the Oyjlers , and how they fiffj 
 for them, and at what time. 146 
 Chap; XIX. Obfervations upon the fair efl and largcfl Diamonds and Rubies, 
 which the Author has feen in Europe and Afia , represented according to the 
 Figures in the Plates ; as alfo upon thofe which the Author fold to the King , 
 upon his lafl return from the Indies • with the Figure of a large Topaz, , and 
 the fair eft Pearls in the World. 148 
 Chap. XX. The forms of twenty Rubies which the Author fold to the King , 
 upon his lafl return from the Indies. The firfl part of the Plate /hews the 
 "weight, extent, and thicknefs of every Stone. 149 
 Chap. XXI. Of the Coral, and yellow Ember, and the places where 'tis found. 151 
 Chap. XXII. Of Musk and Bezoar , and fome other Medicinal Stones. 153 
 Chap. XXIII. Of the places where they find their Gold , both in Afia and 
 America. 156 
 Chap. XXIV. The Relation of a notable piece of T reachery , whereby the 
 Author was abus'd when he Embark' d at Gomrom for Surat. 157 
 
 The 
 
The CONTENTS , &c. 
 
 The Third Book of the INDIAN Travels. 
 
 Chap. I. f\F thi particular Religion of the Mahometans in the Eaft- 
 Indies. Pag. 159 
 
 Chap. 'II. Of the Faquirs, or poor Mahometan Volunteers in theJLzH- 
 Indies. 160 
 Chap. III. Of the Religion of the Gentiles , or idolatrous Indians, 161 
 Chap. IV. Of the Kings and idolatrous Princes of Afia. 163 
 Chap. V. what the Idolaters believe touching a Divinity. 164 
 Chap. VI. Of the Faquirs, or poor Volunteers among the Indians , and 
 
 of their Penances. 165 
 Chap. VII. Of the idolaters Belief touching the State of the Soul after 
 Death. 1 67 
 
 Chap. VIII. Of the Cujlom among the idolaters to Burn the Bodies of thetr 
 
 Dead. 168 
 Chap. IX. How the wives are Burnt in India , with the Bodies of their 
 
 deceas'd Husbands. 169 
 Chap. X. Remarkable Stories of women that have been Burnt after their 
 
 Husbands decease. 171 
 Chap. XI. Of the mofi Celebrated Vagods of the idolaters in India. 173 
 Chap. XII. ^ Continuation of the Description of the principal Pagods 
 
 of the Indian idolaters. 177 
 Chap. XIII. Of the Pilgrimages of the Idolaters to their Pagods, 179 
 Chap. XIV. Of divers Cufloms of the Indian idolaters. Ibid. 
 Chap. XV. of the Kingdom of Boutan, whence comes the Musky the 
 
 Good Rhubarb , and fome Furs. 182 
 Chap. XVI. Of the Kingdom of Eipra, 186 
 Chap. XVII. Of the Kingdom of -Afem. 1 87 
 
 Chap. XVIII. Of the Kingdom of Siam. 189 
 Chap. XIX. Of the Kingdom of Macaffar , and the Ambajfadors which 
 
 the Hollanders fent into China. 191 
 Chap. XX. The Author purfues bis Travels into the Eajl , and Embarks 
 
 at Mengrelia/^ Batavia. The danger he was in upon the Sea • and his 
 
 arrival in the ifland of Ceylan. 194 
 Chap. XXI. The Authors departure from Ceylan , and his arrival at 
 
 Batavia. 195 
 Ghap. XXII. The Author goes to vifit the King of Bantam > and relates 
 
 [everal Adventures upon that Occafion. 1 96 
 
 Chap. XXIII. The Author's return to Batavia. His Revifiting the King 
 
 of Bantam. And a Relation of fever al extravigancies of certain Faquirs 
 
 in their return from Mecca. 199 
 Chap. XXIV. Of the war of the Hollanders, with the Emperour of 
 
 Java. . 202 
 
 Chap. XXV. The Author Buries his Brother ; and u again quarrell'dwith- 
 
 all by the General and his Council. 203 
 Chap. XXVI. The Author Embarks in a Dutch Veffel> to return into 
 
 Europe. 204 
 Chap. XXVII. The Holland Fleet arrives at St, Helens. The Defcri- 
 
 ption of the ijland, 207 
 
 THE 
 
Chap. I 
 
 t 
 
 THE 
 
 FIRST BOOK 
 
 O F 
 
 Monsieur TAVERN IER> 
 
 Perfian Travels, 
 
 Containing the feveral 
 
 ROADS 
 
 From PARIS to ISPAHAN the Chief 
 
 City of <P E ^ 5 J A, 
 Through the Northern Provinces of TV RKT. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Of the %oads from France to the hither parts of Alia, and the Places 
 from whence they ufually fet out for Ifpahan. 
 
 Man cannot travel in jlfia, as they do in Europe \ nor at the 
 fame Hours, nor with the fame eafe. There are no weekly 
 Coaches or Wagons from Town to Town befides, that the 
 Soil of the Countries is of feveral natures. In Afia you (hall 
 meet with feveral Regions untill'd and unpeopl'd, either 
 through the badnefs of the Climate and Soil , or the floth of 
 the Inhabitants, who rather choofc to live miferably, than 
 to work. There are vaft Deferts to crofs, and very dangerous, 
 both for want of Water, and the Robberies that the aArabs 
 daily commit therein. There are no certain Stages , or Inns to entertain Travellers. 
 The beft Inns, efpecially in Turkie , are the Tents which you carry along with you, 
 and your Hofts are your Servants , that get ready thofe Victuals which you have 
 bought in good Towns. You fet up your Tent in the open Field, or in any Town 
 where there is no Inn : and a good fhift too in temperate weather , when the Sun 
 is not too hot, or that it does not rain. In the Carvanfera\ or Inns which are more 
 frequent in Perfia than in Turkie, there are perfons that furnifh you with Provifions, 
 and the firft come are beft fervcd. As for THrhie it is full of Thieves , that keep in 
 Troops together, and way-lay the Merchants upon the Roads , and if they be not 
 very well guarded will certainly rob them: nay many times murder them. A mil- 
 chief prevented in Perfia, by the well order'd convenience which is provided for 
 Travellers. To avoid thefe dangers and inconveniences, you are obliged to ftay 
 
 A for 
 
2 
 
 The P ersian Travels 
 
 Book I 
 
 for the Caravans, that go for Perfia or the Indies, which never fet out but at certain' 
 times , and from certain places. 
 
 Thefe Caravans fet out from Conjlantinople, Smyrna, and Aleppo. And it is from 
 one of thefe Cities that a Traveller muft fet out, that intends for Perfia, whether he 
 keeps company with the Caravan, cnm\\ hazard himfelf alone with a Guide, as once 
 I did. 
 
 I will begin with Constantinople, from whence you may go either by Land or Sea : 
 and either by Land or Sea there are two ways to go. The firft of thefe by Land is 
 that which I took with Moofteur Chapes and Monfieur St. Liebau. By the way take 
 notice , that Vienna is the half-way near-upon between Paris and Conflantinople. The 
 fecond Road is lefs frequented , but is lefs inconvenient and lefs dangerous : for there 
 are no need of the Emperour's Pafports, which he does not grant very freely : befides 
 that here is no fear of the Pirates of Tunis or Argier, as when you embarque from 
 Marseilles or Ligorn. If you intend this way, you muft go to Venice ; from Venice 
 to Ancona, from whence feveral Barques are bound every Week for Ragufa. From 
 Ragufa you fail along by the Shore to Dnraz.z.0 a Sea-Port of Albania • from whence 
 you travel the reft of the way by Land. From Duraz.z.o to Albanopolu, diftant three 
 days journey, from thence to Moneftier, juft as far from Moneftier you may either 
 take the left hand through Sophia, and Philippopolif , or the right through In- 
 guifcher, three days journey from Monefiier, and ten from Adrianople, from whence 
 in five days you reach Conflantinople through Selivrea. 
 
 This Iaft way is part by Sea and part by Land : but there are two other ways alto- 
 gether by Land , above and below Italy, according to the diftin&ion which Antiquity 
 made of the two Seas that almoft encompafs it. You may embark at Venice, and 
 fayling along the Gulf which is free from Pirates , you muft double the Cape of 
 Matapan, the moft Southefn Point of all Europe, to enter into the Archipelago. The 
 other way is from Marseilles or Ligorn, from whence feveral VefTels are bound for 
 the Eaft. The fafeft way is to go along with the Englifh or Holland Fleets , that 
 ufually arrive at Ligorn either in the Spring or in Autumn , and part juft againft the 
 Morea , to the feveral parts whither they are bound. As the Wind ferves , thofe 
 Fleets fometimes make Sail between the Hand of Elba and Italy, and by the Tower 
 of Meffina : fometimes below Sicily and Sardigna, within fight of Malta. Thus you 
 muft come within fight of Candy, whether you are bound for Conjlantinople, Smyrna, 
 or AUxandretta, from whence it is but three days jonrney to Aleppo : from one of 
 which three Cities , you muft neceflarily begin your journey , if you intend for 
 Terfia. 
 
 Some take Egypt in their way , ufing through Alexandria , Cairo , and Damiata, 
 whence feveral VefTels are bound for Joppa ; or St. John's of Aera , which is not 
 far off: from thence to Jerusalem or Damafcm, and from thence to Bagdat or Babylon. 
 
 If you will venture in a fmgle VefTel not ftaying for the Fleets, you may hire a 
 Veflel from Ligorn to Naples, from Naples to Meffina, keeping along by the Shore, and 
 lying a-fhore every night. I took this way , and went from Meffina to Syracufe? 
 where are to be feen the moft remarkable footfteps of Antiquity. 'Tis like a City 
 under ground , and near to it is a great Rock which has been made hollow, at the 
 bottom whereof if a man whifper, they that are at the top may hear him. They 
 call this Rock Dionyfitts the Tyrant's Ear : for being at the top, he eafily underftood 
 what the People faid of him below, and difcovered the Counfels of the chief Men 
 of Syracufe, whom he kept prifoners there. Syracufe has nothing of that fplendour 
 which renown'd it when it was the Miftrefs of all Sicily, and when Greece, jealous of 
 her power,made War upon heir. But the Soil is very plentiful,and the Gallies of Malta 
 very often take in their Provifions there. .Near the City is a fair Convent of Capuchin 
 Friers , going out of which you may walk for half an hour between two very high 
 Rocks, where there are feveral little Cells with every one a Garden, where the Friers 
 fometimes retire, and it is certainly one of the moft pleafing Solitudes in the World. 
 
 From Syracufe I went to Malta, where you muft wait for fome Ship that is bound 
 for the Eaft. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Chap. II. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 3 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Of the ^pad from Conftantinople to Ifpahan , tphkh the Author 
 kept in his firft Tray els into Perfia. 
 
 IT is feldom that any Caravans go from Conftantinople into Perfia; but from 
 Burfa they go every two Months: Burfa is the Capital City of "Bithynia, not 
 above three days journey from Conftantinople, or a little more. Thefe two Roads 
 meet at Chabangi , where you may be from Burfa in two Days : and fo I will 
 only fpeak of the Roads from Conftantinople to Ifpahan. This Journey is to be under- 
 taken either with the Caravan of Camels, or elfe ten or twelve Men in a Company, 
 well mounted and well arm'd. 
 
 From Conftantinople , you crofs over to Scutari ; upon the Coaft of Afia. 
 Setting out from Scutari , the firft days journey is very pleafant , over Fields gayly 
 painted with Flowers in their feafon. At firft for lbme time together , on both fides 
 the way , you lee nothing but fair Sepulchers with their Pyramids , and you may 
 eafily difcern the Womens Monuments from the Mens. For there is a Turbant upon 
 the Pyramid of the Mens Sepulcher, but the Pyramids of the Womens Monuments arc 
 trimm'd with the Head-Attire which is worn by the Women of the Country. That 
 Evening you muft lye at Cartali , a Village or Bithynia , the next Day at Gebifa, 
 anciently Lybiffa , famous for the Tomb of Hannibal. In that place there are two 
 good Inns , and two fair Fountains. 
 
 The third Day you come to Ifnich , which is thought to be the ancient Nice a ; one 
 part of the City is built upon the defcent of a Hill , the other part upon a Plain that 
 reaches to the Sea , and makes the Cjolf of Ifnich. The Haven confifts of two Moles 
 made of Free-ftone, and three great Enclofures encompafs'd with Walls , which fervc 
 inftead of fo many Arfenals , wherein there are Store-houfes full of large Timber, 
 for building Houfes and Galleys. The Country round about being an excellent place 
 for Hunting , and the Soil bearing rare Fruits , and rich in Wine , caus'd Sultart 
 Amman to build a Seraglio in the higheft part of the Town, from whence there is 
 a profpeft at the lame time both over the Sea and the Country. The Jews inhabit 
 the greateft part of the Town, dealing chiefly in Timber and Corn. When the Wind 
 i'erves, you may go from Conftantinople to Ifnich in feven or eight Hours, there being 
 no danger in the paffage. 
 
 The fourth Day you ftay at Chabangi, a fmall Town built upon the fide e>f a Lake, 
 call'd Chaban-Gigid, where there are two Inns. From the beginning of the Lake 
 for two Leagues together you travel partly over Mountains , partly by the Lake- 
 fide, where in lbme places the Horfe will be up to the Belly. This Lake is not above 
 ten Leagues in compafs-, but it yields great ftorc of large Fifh, infomuch that I 
 have bought a Pike two Foot and a half long for three Sous. Many Emperours have 
 had a defign to make a Cutt out of this Lake into the Sea , for the more eafie tranf- 
 porting to Conftantinople the Timber which grows upon the Mountains near the Lake. 
 And if the Grand Vifter , who by a Miracle dy'd in his Bed, and left his Son fuc- 
 ceffor to his Employment, had liv'd fome few Years longer , he had no qucftion added 
 this to the reft of thofe famous Works that eterniz'd his Memory. 
 
 Departing from Chabandi, you come to lye at Night upon the Bank of a River call'd 
 Zacarat, which runs Northward and falls into the Blac\Sea. It is a River plentiful 
 in Fifh , and you crofs over it with a wooden Bridge. There is neither Town , nor 
 Inn in that place ; but a League from the River is a great Town call'd Ada, the chiefeft 
 part of the Inhabitants whereof are Armenians. Thither we fent for excellent good 
 Wine , and other neceflary refrefhments. 
 
 From that River to Cancoly, where you lye the next Night, and have your choice 
 of four Inns} you travel all the day in the Merfhes, over wooden Bridges and 
 Caufevs. 
 
 T vukebaf.tr is the next place , a fmall Village with two Inns. From thence to Car- 
 gueflar, a great Town, with one Inn-, built upon a River, where there is great 
 ftore of Fifh taken , which the Inhabitants call Bonrma-balouky , that is to fay, the 
 
 A 2 Fifh 
 
The Persian Travels Book I. 
 
 Fifh with the long Nofe: It is fpeckl'd like a Trout ; but of a better taft, and 
 more efteem'd. Folia , or Polls , is a City feated at the foot of feveral Mountains, 
 the Inhabitants whereof are for the mod part Greek*. Thefe Mountains are very 
 high, and extend themfelvcs along the Road for two days journey. They are full 
 of feveral forts of Trees , which are ftreight and tall like Firr-trees \ and divided 
 by fo many Torrents, which it would be hard to pafs over, were it not for the Bridges 
 that the Grand V iber Kuprigli caus'd to be built. In regard the foil of thefe Moun- 
 tains is very fat, there would be no drawing for the Hories after great Rains or the 
 melting of the Snow , had not the fame Vifier caus'd all the Ways to be Pav'd and 
 Pitch'd , even as far as Conftantiwfle. A Work of great Charge, in regard there is 
 not a Flint in any part of the Mountain, and for that the Stone is to be fetch'd a 
 great way off. There are abundance of Pigeons as big as Hens, and of an excellent 
 taft , which not only pleas'd our Appetites , but afforded us very good Paftime to 
 (hoot them. Between the City and the Mountain , there is a Plain about two 
 Leagues in length-, near to which, there glides a River that waters it, and very 
 much contributes to its fertility. It is an excellent Soil , and produces all things 
 neceflary for Humane Life. Upon each fide of the way I counted above twenty 
 Churchyards. For it is the cuftom of the Turks to bury near the Highway , be- 
 lieving that the Travellers pray for the Souls of the deceas'd. Upon every Tomb, 
 there is to be feen a Marble Pillar , half fix'd in the Earth : of which Pillars there 
 are fo great a number, of various Colours, that it is from thence conje&ur'd, that 
 there were a very great number of Chriftian Churches in folia, and the parts there- 
 abouts. They affur'd me Iikewife , that there were a vaft quantity of thefe Pillars 
 in the Villages up and down in the Mountains, which the Turk* every day pull down 
 to fet upon their Tombs. 
 
 Hendourlour is a Village in the Mountains, where there is one Inn. 
 
 Cjerradar is beyond the Mountains, where there are two Inns. 
 
 Cargeflar has two Inns , and lyes in a good Country. 
 
 Caragalar, is a Town where there arc two Inns. 
 
 Cofiz.ar is a Village with one Inn. 
 
 Tocia is a great City fituated upon rifmg Hills , that joyn to very high Moun- 
 tains. Upon the Winter Weft, there appears a fair Champain Country, water'd by 
 a Stream that falls into a River of a greater bignefs , call'd Gufelarmac. Upon the 
 higheft of the lmaller Hills toward the Eaft , there is a Fortrefs , where a Hafba 
 refides ; and in the Town is one of the faireft Inns upon the Road. The greateft 
 part of the Inhabitants are Chriftian Greeks, who have the advantage to drink ex- 
 cellent Wine , with which the Country furnilhes them in abundance. 
 
 esfgifenfalou ftands upon a River, and there is an Inn and a fair Mofquee 
 in it. 
 
 Oaeman is a little City , feated at the foot of a Hill upon which there ftands a 
 ftrong Caftle , and below two very commodious Inns. The River Gufelarmac, 
 broad and deep , waihes the South»-fide of the City, which you crofs , over one of 
 the faireft Bridges that ever was feen. It confifts of fifteen Arches , all of Free- 
 ftone , and is a Work that (hews the Grandeur of the Undertaker. Somewhat at 
 a diftance from the Bridge ftand fix Corn-Mills all together , with little wooden 
 Bridges to go from one to another. This River falls into the Euxin Sea, about eight 
 days journey from Oz.eman. 
 
 Aular is a great Town , where there are two Inns. 
 
 Delekirat is a great Village , with one Inn. 
 
 Thefe Four Days Journeys are very dangerous , by reafon that the Ways arc 
 narrow, and commodious for Robbers. They are very numerous in this Country 
 and therefore underftanding that we were way-laid , we fent and defir'd a Convoy 
 of the jBajha , who lent us fifty Horfemen. 
 
 Amafia is a great City, built upon an afcent in the hollow of a Mountain. It has 
 no profpeft , but only from the South over a fair Plain. The River that runs by it 
 comes from Tocat , and throws it felf into the Tlack^Sea, four days journey from 
 uimafia. You crofs it over a wooden Bridge , fo narrow that not above three perfons 
 can go a-breft. To bring frefh Water to the City, they have cut a League into 
 Rocks as hard as Marble , which was a prodigious Labour. On the Weft-fide , upon 
 a high Mountain , ftands a Fortreis, where they can come by no other Water than 
 
 what 
 
Chap. II. of Monfiuer Tavernier. 
 
 what they preferve in Cifterns when it rains. In the middle of the Mountain is a fair 
 Spring, and round about it are feveral Chambers cut out of the Rock , where the 
 JDervichs make their abode. There are but two Inns , and thofe very bad ones i 
 in Amafia. But the Soil is good , and bears the beft Wine and Fruits in all Jft» 
 tolia. 
 
 Ainabachar , is the name of an Inn, diftant a quarter of a League from a great 
 Town where they fetch their ProviGons. 
 
 Ttircall is a great Town near to a Mountain, upon which there ftands a Caftle. 
 The River that comes from Tocatt wafhes the Houfes , and we caught excellent Fifh 
 in it. In that place is another of the faireft Inns upon the Road. 
 
 From Turcall you may travel in one day to Tocatt , where the Road from Smyrna 
 to l(pah,m meets. 
 
 Tocat is a good fair City built at the foot of a very high Mountain , fpreading it 
 felf round about a great Rock that ftands almoft in the midft of the Town , upon the 
 top whereof a high Caftle commands the neighbouring parts , with a good Garrifon 
 in it. It is very ancient , and the remainder of three others that flood there in 
 former times. The City is very well inhabited with Turk* , who are the Lord Con- 
 trollers , Armenians ^ Greeks , and Jews. The Streets are very narrow , but the 
 Houfes are indifferent well built •, and among feveral Mofquees, there is one very 
 magnificent, which feems to be newly rear'd. There was alio a very fair Inn going 
 up , which when I laft travell'd that way, was not quite finiffi'd. There is one 
 thing more particular and more commodious at Tocat, which is not to be found in 
 any Inns upon the Road , That round about all the Caravanserais in the Town , there 
 are Lodgings which they let out to Merchants, that defire to be by themfelves out 
 of the noife and hurry of the Caravans, whiles they flay at Tocat. Befides that, 
 in thofe private Lodgings you have your liberty to drink Wine, and provide for 
 the reft of your Journey ^ which is not fo eafily done in the publick Inns, where the 
 Turks will have an eye upon the Merchants , to draw Money out of their pockets. 
 The Chriftians have twelve Churches at Tocat , and there refides an Archbifhop, 
 that has under him feven Suffragans. There are alfo two Monafteries for Men , and 
 two for Women and for fourteen or fifteen Leagues round Tocat , the Country is 
 all inhabited by Armenian Chriftians , but very few Greeks being intermixed among 
 them. The greateft part of thefe Chriftians are Tradefmen , and for the moft part 
 Smiths. A fair River runs about half a quarter of a League from the City,which rifes 
 near to Erz.erom , and is crofs'd at Tocat over a very beautiful ftone Bridge. Upon 
 ,the North-fide of the City, it waters a Plain three or four clays Journey in extent, 
 and two or three Leagues broad. It is very fertil , and replenifh'd with fair Vil- 
 lages very well peopl'd. A man may live very cheap at Tocat : the Wine is moft 
 excellent, and all fort of rare Fruit very plentiful. It is the only place in all Afia 
 where plenty of Saffron grows , which is the beft Commodity you can carry to the 
 Indies, where a Pound, as the Years fall out, is worth thirteen or fourteen * Franks, * Every Frank 
 though the Wax that preferves it , be as much in weight as the Saffron. This City, being 2 s. 
 with the Lands belonging to it, ufually is the Dowager Sdtaneffes Joynture. There Aerling. 
 is only an A/a and a Cody, that command there in the behalf of the Grand Signer 1 
 for the Bafia, from whom they receive their Orders, lives at Sivas , which is the 
 ancient Sebafiia , and a very, great City, fome three days journey from Tocat. In 
 fhort , Tocat is one of the moft remarkable Thoroughfares in the Eaft, where are 
 continually lodg'd the Caravans from Perfia, Diarbequer , Bagdat , Constantinople, 
 Smyrna , Synopus, and other places •, and here the Caravans turn off , as they are 
 varioufly bound. They that are for Constantinople, take to the Winter Weft upon 
 the right hand $ they that are for Smyrna, incline to the Summer Weft, upon the 
 left hand. When you fet out either way out of Tocat, there is a Toll-gatherer, 
 that counts all the Camels and Horfes that pais by,and exa&s for every Camel a quarter 
 of a Rixdollar, and for every Horfe half as much. As for the Horfes or Camels that 
 carry the PalTengers or their Provifions, they pay nothing. This continual concourfe 
 of the Caravans trolls the Money about at T ocat, and makes it one of the moft con- 
 fiderable Cities of Turkic 
 
 Setting out of Tocat to go to Erz.erom, youdifcovera little Village fo fituated 
 under a Hill, as if the Mountain lay a top of it :, and between that Mountain and 
 the River, the Road is very narrow where the Caravan is to pals. In this Road it 
 
 was, 
 
 1 
 
6 The Persian Travels Book L 
 
 was , that wc met the Grand Vifur returning from Hunting , with a Train of four 
 hundred men: fo foon as he pcrceiv'd us, he fil'd off all his men to give us liberty 
 to pafs by. But among all the Company, there was not above four Franks upon 
 which he particularly caft his Eye } which made him fend for the Caravan ISachi to 
 know who we were. The Caravan Bachi , to avoid the ill Confequences of jealoufie 
 which the Vifur might have of the Franks , at a time when the Grand Vifur made 
 War in Pe rfa , told him we were Jews ; at which the Vifur, ftiaking his Head, 
 reply'd only that we did not look like fuch , and happy it was for us that he took 
 no farther notice. For it was twenty to one , but that upon better confideration 
 he might have fent after us to have ftopt us. But when he came home to his 
 Lodging he found a Capigi flaying for him , with Orders from the Grand Signor to 
 take off his Head , which were prefently executed. For Amurath being troubl'd 
 for the lofs of his Army, 'had no way but to revenge himfelf upon the perfon that 
 had the command of it. 
 
 Notwithftanding that the Caravans reft, at Tocat, yet they ftay likewifc two or 
 three days at Ghark[i q m h , which is not above two Leagues diftant from if, for 
 Chark^iqmn is a great Town in a lovely Country, between two fertil Hills, where 
 there grows excellent Wine. It is for the moil part inhabited by Chriftians, who 
 are generally Tanners. The fine blew Goat-leather Skins being dreft in Tec at, 
 and the Parts thereabout. It is thought the Water contributes very much to their 
 Art. For Tocat is as famous for the blew Goats-leather Skins , as Diarbeqnir and 
 Bagdat are for the red , Afouffd or the ancient Niniveh for the yellow, and Ourfa 
 for the black. About two thoufand Paces from this Town , in the midft of a Plain 
 rifes a vaft Rock , upon the North-fide whereof you afcend about nine or ten fteps 
 into a Chamber with a Bed , a Table , and a Cupboard in it, all hewn out of the 
 Rock. Upon the Weft fide you afcend other five or fix fteps that lead to a little 
 Gallery, about five or fix Foot long , and three broad , all hewn out of the Rock^ 
 though it be of an extraordinary hardnefs. The Chriftians affirm that St. Chryfoftotn 
 made this Rock his retiring-place during his Exilement, and that he had no other 
 Bed or Bolfter than the Rock it felf , in a place where they {hew you the print of 
 a Man's Body. Hence it is, that the Caravans, confiding for the moft part of Chriftian 
 Merchants , ftay at Charkliquett , to pay their Devotions to this Rock , where the 
 Bifhop of the place , attended by fome Priefts , with every one a Taper in their 
 Hands, goes and fays Mafs. But the main Reafon is , becaufe there grows excellent 
 Wine in this place , which being cheaper by half here , than it is at Tocat , obliges 
 the Armenians to ftop here , to provide themfelves for the reft of their Journey. 
 
 Two Leagues from Charkliqneu , you crofs over very high Mountains , with Pre- 
 cipices on both fides. It is the cuftom of the Armenians , when they hear of the 
 approach of a Caravan , to ride out two or three days journey to meet their Coun- 
 try-men and carry them frefti Provifions. Thofe of Charkliqtteu coming to meet our 
 Caravdn, three of the Armenians took a large Mornings-draught, which made 
 them fo Pot-valiant , that they would needs ride before to the Town alone by them- 
 felves but by the way they were fet upon by fix Horfe-mcn that came from the 
 North, where there are higher Mountains than thofe which we were to crofs. Imme- 
 diately the Thieves darted their Half-Pikes at the Armenians , in fo much that two 
 of them fell down mortally wounded , and the other fav'd himfelf among the 
 Rocks, but the Thieves got their Horfes and Goods, which were valu'd at ten thou- 
 fand Crowns. The Caravan at the top of the Hill beheld the misfortune of thole 
 poor men which their own folly had brought upon them , but could not help them, 
 by reafon of the narrownefs of the ways*, befides, that the Thieves knowing all the 
 by-turnings , were prefently out of fight. And therefore it is a dangerous thing 
 to leave the Body of the Caravan , either by flaying too far behind , or running 
 too faft before : and fome have fuffer'd for diftancing themfelves not above five hun- 
 dred Paces from it. 
 
 The Caravans do not make their Journeys all alike \ but come to their Stages 
 fometimes fooner , fometinaes later, according as they meet with Water and Inns, 
 or places fit to pitch their Tents in , to which places the Natives bring Provifion 
 and Provender from the Mountains. There are fome places where there is a necef- 
 fity to provide Straw and Barley for two or three days. If you travel in May, 
 when the Gfafs is high , it eofts nothing to feed the Horfes and Camck. For as 
 
Chap, If. of Monfieur Ta vernier. 
 
 foon as the Caravan is lodg'd , the Servants go and cut the Grafs from off the Hil- 
 locks , where it is much better then upon the Plains. But while the Beafts feed 
 only upon Grafs they are much weaker , and cannot travel fo far as at other 
 times. 
 
 From the Mountain where the Armenians were fet upon, you come to Almoin, 
 a little Village upcn a River, which you crofs , over a Bridge of Wood. 
 
 Going out of AlmoKs, you crofs a large Plain, at the end whereof you lodge upon 
 the Bank of a fair River , call'd Toufanlou-fou , which falls into the River of 
 Tocat. 
 
 Having pafs'd this River, you afcend a high Mountain, which the People of the 
 Country call Kara-bebir-beguiendren, or, the Mountain that flops the Grand Signors ; 
 for it is very rugged, and you muft of neceffity alight , to afcend it. In that bad 
 Way two Horfes that carry'd each of them two Bales of Englijl] Cloth burft under 
 their Burthen , which prov'd excellent Food for feveral Tartars that were before us, 
 and were pitch'd in the place where we intended to have lodg'd our felves - , fothat 
 we were forc'd to go a quarter of a League farther. Thele Tartars when they 
 heard of our two dead Horfes, made immediately to the Mountain fifteen or fixteen 
 of them with all joy imaginable, to devour it. They flea'd the Horfes , and when 
 they came back ( for I ftay'd to fee them ) they brought every one a great piece 
 of Flefh between the Saddle and their Horfes backs. For by that means the Flefh 
 mortifies , and bakes as it were , through the motion and heat of the Horfe , and 
 fo they eat it without any more a-do. I faw one of them that took a piece of thofe 
 Horfes Flefh, and after he had beaten it foundly between two nafty Linnen 
 Clothes , with a piece of a Stick , fet his Teeth in it , and devour'd it with a very 
 greedy appetite. 
 
 Upon the top of the Mountain which I have mention'd, there is a Plain, and in 
 the mid'ft of the Plain a Fountain call'd Cbefme'-beler, or, A Fountain ofCryflah, near 
 to which, on the South-fide, there ftands a Village. 
 
 From the place where we lodg'd , we came to a little Town called Adras> the In- 
 habitants whereof are all Armenians. 
 
 Ajfidar is but two Leagues from Adras, and is but a Village. 
 
 Isbeder is another Village in the Mountains, where the Caravan generally flays one 
 or two days } as well to pay the Cuftom, which is the fourth part of a Rixdollar upon 
 every Camel, and half as much for every Horfe \ as for the excellency and cheap, 
 nefs of the Wine , where every Man provides for himfelf. 
 
 Twice we pafs'd by and paid nothing, in regard that the Caravan was too ftrong 
 for the Toll-gatherers •, and were it not that they ftay for the Wine , they might go 
 directly forward without paying any thing. 
 
 Leaving Isbeder , we came to another great Town in the Mountains •, all the 
 Houfes are hewn out of the Rock upon which it is feated , as are alfo all the Stair- 
 Cafes. From this Village , having pafs'd a River, over a wooden Bridge , at the 
 end whereof there ftands an Inn , you come to Zacaya , another Village , from 
 whence through very narrow paffages , where you are forc'd to unload the Camels, 
 and carry your Goods upon Mens ihoulders for thirty Paces together, you come 
 to encamp in a little Plain. It lyes at the foot of a high Mountain, which they 
 call Dikmebell, beyond which lies the Town Kourd-Aga , after which you crofs three 
 Rivers ; one fordable , the other over two Bridges , and then you come to a Village 
 call'd Garmeru. 
 
 From Garmeruyou go to Seukmen, another Village-, from Seukmen to Louri\ from 
 Louri toChaonqticH, which are two very handfom Towns. 
 
 I faw an Old Man at Cbaouqueu who was above a Hundred and Thirty Years old, 
 who when Sultan Amurath befieged Bagdat , gave his whole Army as much Oats as 
 ferv'd them one whole day. In reebmpence whereof, the Sultan exempted him and 
 his Children from all Taxes and Tolls for their Lives. 
 
 Leaving Chaouqmu , you come to a high craggy Mountain which is call'd Aaggi- 
 dogil , or , The Bitter Mountain. The Ways being narrow , the Caravan is forc'd 
 to travel frngle:, and then it is that they count all the Horfes, and all the Camels \ 
 every Horfe and every Camel paying to the Caravan-MnRer a certain Duty, which 
 amounts to a good Sum if the Caravan be numerous. One part of that Money is to 
 payfeven or eiglvt Armenians, that guard the Caravan all the way; another part 
 
8 
 
 The Persian ^Travels Book I. 
 
 defrays the Expences upon the Road and the remainder is the Captain of the Ca- 
 ravan's Profit. 
 
 Having pafs'd this Mountain , you come to lodge in a Plain which they call 
 Gioganderefi , and from thence to Erzerom you meet only with three Villages by the 
 way, Achikala, Ginnis,&nd Higia, which are the Caravan's Stages. During thei'e 
 three laft days journeys , you keep all along the Banks of Euphrates for the molt 
 part , which is yet but narrow, taking its lburee Northward of Erzerom. 'Tis a 
 wonderful thing to fee the vaft quantities of large AJparagw that grow all along 
 the River , with which you may load feveral Camels. 
 
 A League on this fide Erz.erom the Caravan isconftrain'd to ftop-, for the Officer 
 of the Cuftom-Houfe accompani'd with the BajJia's Lieutenant , comes here and 
 tyes all the Bales and Chefts with a crols Cord , upon which he puts a Seal , to 
 the end that when the Merchants come to the Town , they may not be able to 
 take out any Bags of Money, or any pieces of Stuff on purpofe to hide them till they 
 go away. The particular Bufinefs of the Bafta's Lieutenant in meeting the Caravan, 
 is to fee whether the Merchants be well provided with Wines. And if he defire 
 any Bottles , whether it be then , or in the City, where they are not afham'd to 
 vifit every Merchant, there is no refufing them. For there grows no Wine at 
 Erzerom, all that is drank there being a fmall Wine of Mingrelia, which is always 
 green : which forces the Merchants to furnifh themfelves with Wine at Tocat, 
 which they may do fufficiently to laft them into Perfia. The Officer of the Cuftom- 
 Houfe generally allows the Caravan three days to reft-, during which time he 
 fends to the principal Merchants fome Fruit and other fmall Refrefhments , by which 
 he is no lofer. After the three days are over, he comes and opens all the Bales 
 and Chefts , and takes a particular account of all the Merchandizes. This Search 
 and the changing of Beafts , caufes the Caravan to ftay generally twenty or five 
 and twenty days at Erz.erom. 
 
 Erzerom is a frontier Town of Tnrkie toward Perfia. It is fituated at the end 
 of a large Plain environ'd with Mountains , the Plain being beautifi'd with many 
 fair Villages. If you take in the Caftle and the Suburbs it may pais for a City, 
 but the Houfes are ill built of Wood , without any neatnefs or proportion. There 
 are fome Remains of Churches and of the ancient Buildings of the Armenians , by 
 which you may conjecture that it never was very beautiful. The Fortrefs ftands 
 upon a high ground , with a double Wall , fquare Towers clofe one to another, 
 and a pitiful Moat. The Bafia refides there but in a very ill Houfe, all the Buildings 
 about the Fortrefs being in a bad condition. In the fame Enclofure there is a 
 little rifing Ground upon which they have rais'd a fmall Fort , wherein the Janifary~ 
 Aga lives, and where the Bajha has no Power. When the Grand Signor has a 
 mind to the Head of this Bajha, or any other considerable perfon in the Province, 
 he fends a Capigi, with ordep to the Janifary to fend for the Perfon to the little 
 Fortj where the Execution is prcfently done. One Example hereof I faw in my 
 laft Travels into Perfia : For the Bajha of Erz.erom not having fent Twelve thoufand 
 Men fo foon as the Grand Signor requir'd them for his Wars in Candy, the fame 
 Capigi that brought the Sentence of his Death , had the fame Order for the Exe- 
 cution of the "Bafia of Kars; and meeting this Capigi upon the Road in a Village, 
 upon his return for Confiantinople, he would needs (hew me whether I would or no, 
 the Heads of the two Bajha's , which he was carrying to the Grand Signor in a 
 Bag. . 
 
 Between the firft and fecond Gate of the Fortrefs are to be feen four and twenty 
 Pieces of Cannon , moft excellent Guns , but lying one upon another without 
 Carriages. They lye at Erz.erom to be ready upon all occafions when the Grand 
 Signor makes War againft the Perfians. 
 
 There are in Erzerom feveraLgreat Inns*, this City, like Toe at , being one of 
 the greateft Thoroughfares in Turkic The Country about it bears Wine , but 
 not very good , and in regard the People are ftriftly forbid to drink Wine , the 
 Merchants are fore'd to buy it very privately , for fear it fhould come to the know- 
 ledge of the Cadi. Though it be very cola at Erzerom , Barley grows there in 
 fourty days , and Wheat in fixty , which is very remarkable. The Cuftoms paid 
 there for the carrying out of the Gold and Silver, and upon all other Commodities, 
 isveryfevere. Silk, that comes out of Perfia, pays four and twenty Crowns for a 
 
 Camel%- 
 
ChapJV. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 Camel's Load , which is eight hundred Pounds. For in the mountainous Coun- 
 tries a Camel's Load is no more % but in the plain and evert Countries they make 'em 
 carry above ten hundred weight. A Load of Indian Calicutts pays a hundred 
 Crowns^ but the Loads of Linnen are much heavier than thole of Silk. As for 
 other Commodities , they pay Six per Cent, according to their value. 
 
 From this Stage the Caravan fees forward to a Fortrefs call'd Hajfan Kola, where 
 you muft pay half a Piafter for every Camel's or Horles Load going from Erz.erem 
 to Erivan , but returning you pay but half as much. 
 
 Leaving this Fortrefs, you muft go and lodge at a Bridge near to a Village which 
 is call'd Chobaru-CHpri. Over this Bridge, which is the faireft in the whole Journey, 
 you crofs two Rivers which there meet, one is the Kars, and the other is a Stream 
 that falls from a Mountain call'd "Binguiel , both which disburthen themfelves into 
 the Aras. The drdvan usually ftays a day or two at this Bridge \ becaufe the Cara- 
 van divides it felf at this place , fome continuing on the High-road , others taking 
 the Road of Kars, as well to avoid fording the Aras feveral times , as the paying 
 a great Duty upon the great Road , where they exaft four Piafters upon every 
 Camel's Load , and two upon every Horfe-Load , whereas at Karj you are dii- 
 mifs'd for half ib much. 
 
 I went Kars Road twice :, but it is longer , and more troublefom than the other. 
 As foon as you leave the Bridge , for the firft four days you travel over woody 
 Mountains, and very defert Countries, where you meet but with one Village ; but 
 coming near Kars the Country is more pleafant , and well manur'd j bearing all forts 
 of Grain. 
 
 Kars is in 78 Deg. 40 Min. of Longitude, and 42 Deg. 40 Min. of Latitude*, 
 in a very good Soil. The City is very large , but thinly peopl'd , though Provifion 
 be very plentiful and very cheap. But the Grand Signer always choofing that place 
 to rendezvouz his Army , whenever he intended to recruit it , and to lodge his 
 People there which he fent to build Villages \ the King of Perjia has ruin'd all the 
 Country, as he did at Sulfa , and in many other Frontier places , for nine or ten 
 days journey together. 
 
 From Kars to Erivan the Caravan makes it nine days journey, and lyes where it 
 can find mod convenience , there being no certain Stages. The firft days journey 
 ends at a Monaftery and a Village , the one no lefs dei'erted than the other. The 
 next day you come to the Ruines of a great City, call'd Anikaga'e , in the Armenian 
 Language the City of Ani , which was the name of an Armenian King that was the 
 Founder of it. By the Wall , on the Eaft-fide , runs a rapid Stream that falls from 
 the Mountains of Mingrelia , and empties it felf into the River of Kars. This 
 City was very ftrongly fituated •, being plac'd in a Merfh , where are to be feen the 
 Remains of two Caufeys that only led to the Town. There are the Ruines of 
 feveral Monasteries among the reft two that are entire , fuppos'd to be Royal 
 Foundations. From thence to Erivan for two days journey, you meet with only 
 two Villages; near the laft of which you ride by the fide of a Hill, whither when 
 theCaravan pafTes by, the People bring Horfes from feveral Parts to be fold. The 
 Great Road from the Bridge, where the Caravan parts, lyes thus : 
 
 Two Leagues from the Bridge , on the right hand toward the South , lyes a great 
 Mountain which the People of the Country call Mingol. In this Mountain there 
 are abundance of Springs , and from one fide of it falls Euphrates, from the other fide 
 the River of Kars , which empties it felf into the Aras fourteen or fifteen Leagues 
 on this fide Erivan. The Aras, which the Ancients call'd Araxes, falls from other 
 Mountains Eaftward of Mingol , which after many windings through the Upper 
 Armenia, where it receives many other Rivers that fwell its Streams \ it difcharges 
 it felf into the Cajpian Sea , two days journey from Shamaki , upon the Frontiers 
 of the ancient Medes. 
 
 The whole Country is inter-cut by the Rivers Aras and Kars , and feveral other 
 Streams that fall into them , inhabited by very few, but what are Chriftians thofe 
 few Mahumetans that live among them being fo fuperftitious , that they will not drink 
 the Water of any of thofe Rivers , nor wafh in them ; believing them impure and 
 defil'd by the ufe which the Chriftians make of them. They have their particular 
 Wells and Citterns by themfelves , which they will not fuffer a Chriftian to come 
 near. 
 
 B Coma- 
 
io The Persian Travels Book I. 
 
 Comafour is the firft Village where you lodge after you leave the Bridge of Choban- 
 Kupri , going to Erivan. 
 
 Halkarcara is the next Stage to Com^ifoitr t this is a great Town alfo inhabited by 
 Chriftians, but the Houfes are built all under-ground like Caves. Coming thither 
 the feventh of March 1655, the Snow was lb deep that there was no travelling, lb 
 that we were forc'd to ftay there eight days. But the Cuftomer of Erz.ercm under- 
 ftanding in what a bad condition we were , came in perfon with five hundred Horl'e 
 to make way for us , and fent for the Country-people round about to clear away 
 the Snow. But it was not fo much out of Kindnefs to us , as for his own Intereft. 
 For a new Officer being to fueceedhim upon the 22 d of March, and our Caravan 
 being very numerous , he would have loft above a hundred thouland Crowns , had 
 we not come to Erzerom before that day. Many of the Pafifengers were itlmoft 
 blinded by continual looking upon the Snow, the colour whereof very much dims the 
 Sight: for preiervation whereof the Travellers are wont to wear black Cyprels 
 Hoods , made ori purpofe , over their Faces. Others wear furr'd Bonnets, fringed 
 about with Goats-hair, which being long, falls over their Eyes , and does altogether 
 as well as the Hood. 
 
 The Caravan is ufually twelve days upon the Road, from Erz.erom to Erivan. 
 Leaving Halicarcara , you ford the J4ras three times, and crofs it the next day 
 again: for it winds exceedingly. A League and a half from the place where you 
 ford it the fourth time , upon the top of a high Mountain ftands a Fortrefs call'd 
 Kaguifgan, which is the laft place which the Turks pofTefs on that fide. The Cu- 
 ftomers that live there come to the Caravan to take their Toll , which is four Piafters 
 for every Camel loaden, and two for every Horie loaden. In the year 1655 tne 
 Caravan lodging about a League from the Fortrefs of Kaguifgan, the Mountains 
 adjoyning being inhabited by Chriftian Armenians , there came to us a poor Bifhop 
 attended by fifteen or fixteen perfons, among which there were certain Priefts, 
 who brought us Bread , Fowl , and Fruit , defiring the Charity of the Merchants, 
 who recompenc'd them to their fatisfaftion. About four or five Months after, this 
 Bifhop had one of his Eyes ftruck out by a Janifary. That wicked Fellow came to 
 the Town where the Bifhop liv'd, and lighting upon the Bifhop, ask'd him for Money, 
 which becaufe the Bifhop had none to give him, in a rage he ftabb'd him im the Eye 
 with his Dagger. Complaint was made to the Aga , who 'tis thought would have 
 punifh'd the Offender , but he fled , and left the Bifhop without remedy of latif- 
 faftion. 
 
 From the laft place where we encamp'd near the Arat, we went and lodg'd the 
 next day upon the fame River , in the fight of a Village not above a quarter of a 
 League. The next day we crofs'd the River that runs from Kars , and parts Turkie 
 from Perfia. The next day we ftop'd upon the Banks of Aras , half a League from 
 a little Town and this is the laft time you fee this River which you are conftrain'd 
 to pafs fo often. 
 
 Leaving Aras , we came to lodge in a Plain , in fight of a Town which is not far 
 diftant. The next day the Caravan lyes in the Field, and the next day it comes to 
 a place where there are three Churches , whence it is but half a days journey from 
 Erivan. 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 A Continuation of the ^oad from Conftantinople to Ifpahan, 
 from the Borders of Perfia to Erivan. 
 
 TH E firft Place worthy Obfervation , entring into Terfia thorough 
 Armenia, is that which they call the Three Churches , three Leagues 
 from Erivan, which Three Churches , are three Monafteries diftant one 
 from the other. The biggeft and the faireft is the Refidence of the Patri- 
 arch of the Armenians. There is anot her to the South of that, about a Musket-fhot 
 diftant, and another a quarter of a League from it toward the Eaft, which is a 
 
 Nunnery 
 
Chap.III. of Monfiuer Tavernier. 
 
 ii 
 
 Nunnery for Virgins. The Armenians call this place Egmiafn j or the Only Daugh- 
 ter, which is the Name of the chief Church. You may find in their Chronicles, 
 That it began to be Built about three hundred Years after Chrift, and that the 
 Walls being rais'd to a good height, the Devil came in the Night and pull'd down 
 what they built up in the Day :, which he did for feveral Years : but that one Night 
 Chrift himfelf appear'd , and that from that time the Devil furceas'd to moleft 
 them any more •, lb that they finifh'd the Church. It is dedicated to St. Gregory, 
 whom the Armenians have in very great veneration. And there is a Table of Stone, 
 whereupon, according to their Chronicles, Chrift refted when he appear'd to 
 St. Gregory. They that go into the Church , kifs this Stone with a very folemn 
 Devotion. 
 
 The Second is built in honour of a Princefs that came with forty Virgins of Qua- 
 lity to vifit St. Gregory. This Lady an Armenian King caus'd to be thrown into a 
 Well full of Serpents; but fhe receiv'd no harm. For fhe liv'd therein 14 Years 
 by a great Miracle , and from that time to this, the Serpents that breed thereabouts 
 never did any harm. That Idolatrous King had a defign to have enjoy'd that 
 Princefs, who was very handfom, and all her Companions ^ but they overcame 
 him by their Virtue: who thereupon , feeing he could not have his Will , put them 
 all to Death. 
 
 The Cuftom of all the Armenians, as well thofe that come out of Perfia, as thofe 
 that travel into Perfia, is to perform their Devotions at thekThree Churches ; and the 
 Caravan flops uiually five or fix days , during which time they Confefs, and receive 
 Abfolution from the Patriarch. 
 
 The Patriarch has under him forty feven Archbifhops, and every Archbifhop has 
 under him four or fiveSuffragans , with whom he lives in a Convent, where there 
 are feveral Monks under their Jurifdiclion. So loon as they have laid their Mafs, 
 which is generally done an Hour after Day, they all go to work , and to dig and 
 delve for their living. The Revenue of the Patriarch is 600000 Crowns or there- 
 abouts : for all the Armenian Chriftians that are above fifteen Years of age , ought 
 to pay him yearly five Sous. However there are many that do not pay him , by 
 reafon of their poverty. Yet their defect is fuppli'd by the rich , who fometimes 
 pay him two or three Crowns a Head. But this Money does not ftay in the Pa- 
 triach's Pocket : nay he is fometimes behind-hand , for he is engag'd to relieve the 
 poor Armenians , who have not wherewithal to pay the Carage , which is an Annual 
 Tribute that they owe to the Mahometan Princes , to whom they are fubjeft : Other- 
 wife neceffity would force them to become Mahometans ; and they, their Wives and 
 Children would be liable to be fold, which the Grand Patriarch labours all he can 
 to prevent. Every Archbifhop fends him out of his Diocefs what is neceffary to 
 be rais'd for that intent. So that the Patriarch docs but only receive it with one 
 Hand , and pay it with the other j making no Profit to himfelf of a Revenue which 
 he has out of 400000 Villages, which the Archbifhop of St. Stephen's affirm'd to me 
 to be under his Jurifdittion. 
 
 As I return'd from Perfia in the Year 1655, I came to the Three dmrches about 
 the end of February ; the : Caravan ftay'd there eleven Days, as well by reafon of the 
 great Snows that ftop'd up the Ways, as for that the Armenians refolv'd to keep their 
 Carnival there, and after that to perform their Devotions. The next day I went to vifit 
 the Patriarch , who was fitting crofs-Ieg'd upon a Mat. There were four Arch- 
 bifhops, and nine Bifhops fitting about him in the fame pofture , among whom there 
 was one that fpake very good Italian. I ftay'd with him three Hours •, and while 
 we were difcourfing together, in came one of the Monks of the Covent , who had 
 not fpoken to any perfon whatfoever in Two and twenty Years, by reafon of a 
 Penance that was impos'd upon him. Never did Man appear fo meager and de- 
 formed •, but the Patriarch lent for him , and by his Authority commanded him to 
 break Silence , which he did , by fpeaking at the fame Inftant. 
 
 The Saturday before Shrove-Sunday the Patriarch invited all the Caravan , as well 
 Matters as Servants, to hear Mafs the next day , and then to dine at the Covent. 
 Mafs being concluded , the People were brought into a long Gallery, about 1 5 
 or 20 Foot broad, there being a Table on both fides, a ade of feveral Stones, and 
 Benches next the Walls. At the upper end of the Gallery ftands a Table four 
 Footfquare, over which is a vaulted Roof fuftain'd with fouv Pillars , which ferves 
 
 B 2 for 
 
12 
 
 The Persian Travels 
 
 Book I. 
 
 for a Canopy : in the midft whereof is a Chair fet for the Patriarch , who from 
 thence has a full view of both fides the Gallery with two other Chairs of each 
 hand, for two Archbifhops : the other Archbifhops, Monks, and Guefts late at the 
 long Tables. The Meat which they brought us was leveral forts of Pilaw, and feveral 
 Difhes of Fifh, among the reft excellent Trouts. The Pilaw was brought in forty 
 wide Plates , lb well fill'd and fo large , that they were every one as much as a 
 Man could carry. They were all fet down upon the Ground before the Patriarch j 
 who then Pray'd and gave Thanks. Then fix Bifhops with Ladles took out the Meat 
 out of the great Platters, and putting it into lcfTer, ferv'd both the Tables. Every 
 one had alio his earthen Pot of Wine , which was very good , and was fill'd again 
 when it was empty. The Patriarch and the two Archbifhops eat nothing but two 
 Eggs , and a few raw Herbs j no more did the other Archbifhops that fate at the 
 Table. 
 
 At the end of the Feaft , a Bifhop comes with a Paper and Pen and Ink in his 
 Hand , and asks of every one what he pleafes to Subfcribe for the Benefit of the 
 Church*, then every one propofing, according to his Devotion, the Bifhop writes 
 down the Names of the Perfons , and the Sum which they mention which he comes 
 and gathers the next day. There are fome rich Merchants that will give two Tomans, 
 but the meaneft Servant will give an Or. The Bifhop having done writing, the 
 Table was clear'd , and then they brought us Melons and other Fruits. In a fhort 
 while after the Bells rung to Evening Service , and the People went to Church. 
 
 After Evening Service the Patriarch fent for me to behold a Combat of Unfolds, 
 of which there are great ftore in that Country , fome ferving to Till their Ground \ 
 while the Female ones yield ftore of Milk, of which they make Butter and Cheefe, 
 and which they mingle with all forts of other Milk : There are fome of thefe female 
 Beafts that will give two and twenty Pints of Milk a day. 
 
 They brought us into a wide Enclofure , to behold the Sport , wherein there 
 were eight BufaWs. To provoke them one againft another , they (hew them a Red 
 Cloth , which puts them into fuch a Rage , that there were two that dy'd with the 
 ftroke of their Horns upon the place , and there were none of the reft which were 
 not very much lam'd. The Sport being at an end , they bring a great quantity of 
 Wood , which they pile together on purpofe to fet it on Fire. When the Wood 
 was heap'd in as big a Pile as they intended , one of the Archbifhops prefented a 
 Taper of white Wax to all the Company, both Matters and Servants , who every 
 one agreed with him what they (hould give the next day for their Tapers. The 
 Tapers being lighted , the Patriarch with a Stick like a Bifhop's Crofier, march'd 
 before, finging an Hymn, attended by all the Perfons both Ecclefiaftical and Secular, 
 till they had in that manner walk'd three times about the Pile. When the Pile 
 came to be lighted , there was great driving who fliould have the Honour. One 
 of the Merchants offer'd a quantity of Oyl , for Lamps for the Church \ another 
 outdid him, and a third proffer'd more than he*, and the Honour of Lighting the 
 Pile was given to him that offer'd mod. Immediately upon that every one put out 
 his Taper : For they efteem it a moft precious bufinefs-, believing that the lighting 
 of one of thofe Tapers in a Storm , and throwing it into the Sea, is a prefent Charm 
 againft Shipwrack. For fay they , The Virgin Mary , forty days after {he was 
 brought to Bed , went to Jernfalem with Jofeph and her Son and going into the 
 Temple met old Simeon, who taking the Child in his Arms , began to fing the Song, 
 Lord now let thy Servant , &c. the Song being ended , all the People began to cry 
 that Chrift was born , and to publifh it about the City. Now in regard it was 
 Night , every one ran out with Torches in their Hands , and fome made Fires before 
 their Doors , where Chrift was to pafs along. This Feftival amoDg the Armenians 
 is like that of Candlemas-fay •, and they call it in their Language , Ter en Areche ? 
 Where is the Lord? The Armenians, Mafters and Servants, drank all Night to make 
 an end of their Carnival, while the Patriarch was bufie in drefling up the Church with 
 its gayeft Ornaments. 
 
 I could not believe there had been fo much Riches in the Chriftian Churches 
 under the Power of the Mahumetans. It is not a hundred Years fince this Patriarchal 
 Church was in a much meaner Condition : But fince the great Sha-Abas put the 
 Armenians upon Traffick, they have very much enrich'd themfelves : For as they 
 got great Gains*, fo they made great Vows, and gave largely to the Church: 
 
 wherein 
 
Uaxermcrs r J > crJ?an travel? ^^f- 13 
 
Chap. 1 1 1, of Monfieur Tavernier; 13 
 
 wherein there are now as rich Ornaments as in any. Church of Chriftendom. The 
 Choir of the Church was hung round with a Venetian Tiflue of Gold. The 
 Pavement alio of the Choir and the Body of the Church , together with the Steps 
 to the Altar , were lpread with rich Tapeftry. For they all put off their Shooes 
 before they go into the Church nor do the Armenians kneel as in Europe, but ftand 
 aH the while upright. When they hear Mais , they fit after the Mode of the 
 Country, but when the Leflbns are reading they {land up. All the Service-time 
 their Heads are cover'd , unlefs at the Elevation of theHoft, for then they take off 
 their Bonnets , and kits the Earth three times. There was upon the Altar a Crofs, 
 with fix Candlefticks of Gold ; and upbri the Steps to the Altar four Candlefticks 
 of Silver five Foot high. After they had fung feveral Hymns, the Patriarch feated 
 himfelf in a Chair cover'd with Silk Tapeftry, four Archbifhops fitting with their 
 Backs to a Pillar at his right hand. The Service was folemnly perform'd by an 
 Archbilhop , with two Bilhops on each fide of him. After the Archbirtiop' had 
 made certain Prayers , he took the Book wherein he had read the Gofpel and 
 gave it the Patriarch, the Archbifhops , Bifhops, and all the People toKifs. On 
 the one fide of the Cover of that Book there are two Relicks enchas'd , which are 
 cover'd with Cryftal , which was the fide of the Book that was given to be Kifs'd. 
 The Ceremony being ended , many went to Kifs the Patriarch's Hand , and fo" 
 retir'd. 
 
 Ten Leagues from Erivan , toward the North , appears a great Lake , wherein 
 there is an Iland , upon which is built a very fair Govent. T he Monks that live there, 
 live fo auftere a Life, that they never eat Fi(h or Flelh above four times a Year : 
 neither do they fpeak one to another , but upon thole four Days. The reft of the 
 Year they feed only upon Herbs , which they gather out of the Garden : for fay 
 they, it is not Falling , to eat either Butter or Oyl. The Bread which they eat is 
 brought from the neighbouring Villages : and the Iland is replenifh'd with all forts 
 of excellent Fruits. 
 
 On the one fide of the Lake nearer to Erivan is a large Plain , wherein there are 
 fix Monasteries. One of which is entirely hewn out of the Rock , with the Pillars 
 that fuftain it , being feated in a very hard Rock. The Armenians call that Church 
 Kkkgrt in their Language , and the Turks in theirs Guicurghieche , that is , See and 
 away. In this Church , according to the Traditions of the Armenians , is kept the 
 Lance wherewith the Side of Chrift was piere'd the Figure whereof I caus'd to be 
 drawn upon the Place. The Armenians have this Lance in great Veneration, faying, 
 that it was brought thither by St. Matthew. 
 
 Five Leagues from Erivan , towards the South-Eaft begins the Mountain Ararat ; 
 which will be always famous for being the refting-place of Noah's Ark. Half a 
 League from that Mountain , where the Plain begins to grow level , Hands a 
 Church upon a little Hillock , clofe by which are feveral Pits like Wells. They 
 report that it was into one of thefe Wells that Cerda , an Armenian King , caus'd 
 St. Gregory to be thrown , becaufe he would not Worfhip his falfe Gods. Between 
 this Church and Erivan are to be feen the Ruines of the Ancient Artaxate , the 
 Seat of the Kings of Armenia , which demonftrate that it has been a great City : 
 befides , there appear the Ruines of a fair Palace. 
 
 Erivan lyes in 64 Degrees, 20 Minutes of Longitude^ 41 Degrees, 15 Mi- 
 nutes of Latitude in a moft plentiful Country of all things necefiary for Humane 
 Life , but efpecially abounding in good Wine. It is one of the beft Provinces of 
 all Pe rfia , and yields the King a very large Revenue , as well by reafon of the 
 goodnefs of the Soil , as for being the great Thoroughfare of the Caravans. The 
 yearly Revenue of the Governour only , otherwise call'd the Kan of Erivan, 
 amounts to above 20000 Tomans, which make 840600 Livres. This City lying 
 Upon the Frontiers of both Empires , has been taken and retaken by the Turks and 
 Perjians, feveral times. By which means the old City being ruin'd , they have built 
 a new one , 800 Paces on this fide , upon a Rock , at the foot whereof, upon the 
 Weft-fide runs a rapid Stream : it is call'd by the Name of Sangui-Cija. and in many 
 places it is deep and full of Rocks. You crols it, over a fair Bridge of three Arches, 
 in which are built little Chambers, where the Kan retires in the heat of the day. It 
 is full of Fi(h, efpecially Trouts, which neverthelefs are dear enough. This River 
 comes from a Lake called Gigagmi 3 about 25 Leagues from Erivan, toward the 
 
 North, 
 
14 The Persian Travels Book I 
 
 North, and falls into the Arai, that runs not above three Leagues off to the South, 
 Though this City be fortified to the Weil by the River, yet it is never the ftronger, 
 by reaibn of the Hills on the other fide which command it : and in regard it is built 
 upon a Rock , the Moats of the Fort are not above three or four Foot deep. In 
 fome places the City is iecur'd with a double Wall with feveral Towers \ but the 
 Walls being only of Earth , as are moft of the Houfes, the Rain does more mif- 
 chief , than the Cannon would do. That part of Erivan to the North- Weft , is a 
 kind of Suburb, but far better inhabited than the City : for there live all the Mer- 
 chants and Artificers , together with the Chriftian Armenians , who have four 
 Churches there, with a Monaftery. And of late years they have built alio a very fair 
 Inn in the lame Quarter. In the City there only lives the Kan , with the Military 
 Officers and Souldiers^ the Kan's Lodgings lying upon the River. The Governour 
 is a Perfon of great Power , and has always fufftcient Forces about him to guard 
 the Frontiers. The Summer being very hot at Ethan , he lyes in Tents upon the 
 Mountains during the Heat. When a Caravan arrives , he is forc'd to give the 
 King advice thereof: and if any Ambaffador come thither, he is bound to maintain 
 him at his own Expence , and to caule him to be conducted to the Territories of 
 the next Governour, who is oblig'd to do the fame. So that Ambafladors are not 
 bound to be at anyExpences in the Territories of the King of Perfia. Four Leagues 
 from the City are high Mountains , where the Natives that inhabit the hot and 
 Sun-burnt Countries toward Chaldea, come twenty thoufand together, to feek out 
 good Pafturage for their Cartel, and about the end of Autumn return again into their 
 own Country. I cannot compare this Mountainous Tradt , whether for its Valleys 
 and Rivers, or for the nature of the Soil, to any Part that I have feen , better 
 than to that portion of Switzerland , which is call'd the Country of Faux : and there 
 is a Tradition among the Natives, That certain People that inhabited between the 
 Alpes and Mount Jura, and which compos'd a Squadron of Alexander's Army, 
 having ferv'd him in hisConquefts, feated themfelves in this part of Armenia, which 
 they found fo like their own Country. From Tocat to Tauris the Inhabitants are 
 for the moft part Chriftians. Which large Traft of Ground being that which the 
 Ancients call'd the Province of Armenia , 'tis no wonder to meet with fifty Arme- 
 nians for one Mahometan. There are many ancient Armenian Families in Erivan, 
 which is their native Country but they are ill us'd by the Governours , who being 
 far diftant from the Court, do what they pleafe. This City not being far remote 
 from the Province from whence the Silks come , is the place where all the Buyers 
 and Sellers refort. But neither in Erivan, nor in any other part of Perfia are the 
 Merchants put to open their Bales at the Cuftosn-Houfes , as in Turkic They only 
 pay certain Duties toward fecuring the Highways , which Duties they call Rade- 
 rics , and thofe that gather them Raders. 
 
 The Kans or Governours of Provinces in Perfia are civil to Strangers, efpecially 
 to thpfe that they like , or that £hew thera any thing of Curiofity. The firft time 
 that 1 went into Perfia , I took a young Watch-maker with me , and coming to 
 Erivan , I carried him to the Kan who was then Governour. It was at a time 
 when Watches were very rare in Perfia ; and the Kan , underftanding what Trade 
 the Young Man was of, told us he was the firft Watch-maker that ever had been 
 in Perfia : Thereupon he brought the Young Man a Watch to mend , and that he 
 might have the pleafure of feeing him work , he lodg'd us in a Chamber next his 
 own, and made us drink with him every day, for he was a true Toper, andcompell'd 
 us to drink with him from four in the Afternoon 'till near Midnight, in a place 
 which he had made on purpofe, in his Garden, to take off his Glaffes. 
 
 This was he , that having deliver'd Erivan to Sultan Amurat , went along with 
 him to Confiantinofle , and became his Favourite for teaching him to Drink. Amurat 
 left a Garrifon of 22000 Men in the City *, but Sba-Scfi the Per fan King begirt it 
 prefently with a ftrong Army •, and planting himfelf fecurely under one of the Hills 
 that command the City, he batter'd it inceffantly with eight Pieces of Cannon : the 
 fourth day he made a Breach, and though he had the repute of a Coward , he was 
 the firft at the Affault, and tookthe City : and becaufe they would not yield at his 
 Summons, he put all the Garrifon to the Sword. For which Amurat, was quit with Sba- 
 Sefi afterwards , though not in fo noble a way, for entring a Victor into Bagdat, he 
 put all the Perfians to the Sword, after he had given them his Word to the contrary, 
 and promis'd to fpare their Lives. The 
 
. \ 
 
Chap.IV. of Monfieur T a vernier 
 
 *5 
 
 The Platform of Erivan and the Suburbs. 
 
 A. The Tovtn and Fort. 
 
 B. The Suburbs, inhabited by the Armenian Chrifiians, 
 
 C. T be Church. 
 
 D. The Convent. 
 
 E. The River of Sangui-cija. 
 
 F. The Stone- r Bridge . 
 
 G. The Highway for the Caravans. 
 
 H. The Fort which Sha-Sefi built to batter the City. 
 
 I. The River that falls from the Mountain. 
 K. The Highway to Tauris. 
 
 L. The Way to Teflis the chief City of Georgia , and the Way to the Mountain 
 
 where the Kan of Erivan goes twice a Summer to drink. 
 
 M. The Market-Places, for Sale of (foods. 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 A Continuation of the fame %oal from Erivan to Tauris. 
 
 W T ufually takes up ten day^s journey for the Caravan to go between Erivan 
 H and Tauris; and Nacksivan is almoft in the mid-way between both. The 
 ■ firft days journey you travel thorough large Plains lbw'd with Rice , and 
 ML. water'd with feveral Rivulets. The next day you continue to travel through 
 Plains of the lame nature , in fight of the Mountain Ararat, which is full of Mona- 
 steries, leaving it upon the South. Tat Armenians call this Mountain Mcfefoufar, 
 The Mountain of the Arkj becaule the Ark of Noah refted upon it. It is as it 
 were unfaften'd from the other Mountains of Armenia , and from the half-way to the 
 top, it is continually cover'd with Snow. It is higher than any of the neighbouring 
 Mountains', and in my firft Travels I faw it for five days journey together. So 
 loon as the Armenians difcover it , they kifs the Earth , and lifting up their Eyes 
 to Heaven , lay their Prayers. Yet you are to take notice , that the Mountain 
 is hid in Clouds for two or three Months together. In the Plains that you crofs 
 in this fecond days journey , to the Southward a League and a half from the High- 
 way, is to be feen a Work of great Art *, being the Ruines of a Magnificent Caftle, 
 where the Kings of Armenia were wont to refide in the time of their Hunting 
 Divertifements } more efpecially when they continu'd their Sports at the Mallard 
 and Heron. The next day we lodg'd near to a Village where there was good Water, 
 which conftrain'd the Caravan to flay there *, there being none to be met with for 
 ten Leagues farther. The next day you muft travel one by one through the 
 Pafs of a Mountain , and crofs a large River nam'd Arpa-fou , which falls into Aras. 
 It is fordable when it is low *, but when the Snow melts and fwells the Stream , you 
 muft go a League out of your way to the Southward to crofs it, over a Bridge of 
 Stone. From thence you go to lodge near a Village call'd Kalifakiend , where you 
 are fore'd to fetch your Water a good way off. The firft days journey is through 
 a Plain , at the end whereof you meet with an Inn , call'd Kara-bagler, Handing upon 
 a Rivulet^ which was finifh'd in 1664. The Head of this Rivulet fprings three or 
 four Leagues higher toward the North-, and half a League below Kara-bagler, the 
 Water congeals and petrifies •, and of thofe Stones is the Inn built. The Stone is 
 very flight ; and when they have need of it , they make Trenches all along the 
 Stream, and fill them with the fame Water, which in eight or ten Months turns 
 into Stone. The Water is very fweet, and has no bad taft-, yet the Country-men 
 thereabouts will neither drink it , nor water their Grounds with it. The Arme- 
 nians lay, that Sem the Son of Noah caus'd the Rock to be hollow'd, out of which 
 this River iffues j which four or five Leagues from its Head, and two from the Inn, 
 falls into Aras. From this Inn to Naksivan is but a lmall Journey. Naksivan, 
 
 according 
 
16 The Persian Travels Book I 
 
 according to the Opinion of the Armenian', isthemoft ancient City of the World ^ 
 built about three Leagues from the Mountain upon which the Ark of Noah relied : 
 from whence it alfo takes its Name", for iV^in the Armenian Tongue fignifies a 
 Ship , and Sivan , refling or repofwg. 'Twas a great City, now wholly ruin'd by 
 the Army of Sultan Amu-rath. There are the Remains of fevcral rare Mofquees, 
 which the Turks have deftroy'd', for the Turks and Per fans dcftroy one another* 
 Mofquees as faft as they fall into one anothers pofTeflion. This City is very ancient, 
 and the Armenians report that it was in this place where Noah went to live , when 
 he went out of the Ark. They fay further, that he was Buried here ^ and that 
 his Wife has a Tomb at Mar ante upon the Road to Tauris. There runs a little 
 River by Naksivan , the Water whereof is very good - 7 the Spring whereof is not 
 far diftant from the Head of the River of Karabagler. The Armenians drove a great 
 Trade in Silk formerly in this Town , which is now very much abated : however, 
 there is a Kan which has the Command there. All the Country between Erivan 
 and Tauris was wholly deftroy'd by Sha-Abas King of Perfia, and the firft of that 
 Name:, to the end that the Armies of the Turks, not meeting with any fubfiftance, 
 might perifh of themfelves. To this purpofe , he fent all the Inhabitants of Zulfa 
 and the Parts ad joyning into Perfia, Old and Young, Fathers, Mothers, and Chil- 
 dren , with which he planted new Colonies in feveral parts of his Kingdom. He 
 fent above 27000 Families of Armenians into Guilan, whence the Silks come, and 
 where the harfhnefs of the Climate kill'd abundance of thofc poor People, that 
 were accuftom'd to a milder Air. The mod confiderable were fent to ijpahan, 
 where the King put them upon the Trade of Silk, and lent them Commodities, 
 for which they paid upon the return of their Markets , which fuddenly fet the Ar- 
 menians upon their Feet again. Thefe are they that built the City of Zulfa, which 
 is only feparated from Ijpahan by the River of Senderou, calling it New Zulfa , to 
 diftinguifh it from the old City, which was the Habitation of their Anceftors. A 
 third part of the People were difpers'd into other Villages between Ijpahan and 
 Sciras. But the old People dying , the young ones generally turn Mahumetans : 
 lb that now you can hardly meet with two Chriftian Armenians in all thofe fair 
 Plains, which their Fathers were fent to manure. 
 
 Among the Ruines of Naksivan appear the Ruines of a great Mofquee , which 
 was one of the moft ftately Buildings in the World : which lbme fay was built in 
 memory of Noah's Burying-place. As you depart out of the City , near to the 
 River that runs by it, appears a Tower, which is an excellent piece of Architecture : 
 It is compos'd of four Duomo's joyn'd together , which fupport a kind of Pyramid, 
 that feems to be fram'd of twelve little Towers \ but toward the middle it changes 
 its figure, and leflening like a Spire, ends in a Point. The Building is all of Brick, 
 but as well the out-fide as the in-fide is over-fpread with a kind of Varnifli of Parget, 
 wrought into Flowers , like Embofs'd Work. 'Tis thought to have been an Edifice 
 fet up by Temur-leng , when he had Conquer'd Perfia. 
 
 Between Nakiivan and Zulfa , on each fide , as well to the North as to the South, 
 there are ten Coven ts of Chriftian Armenians , diftant about two or three Leagues 
 one from the other. They acknowledge the Pope , and are govern'd by certain 
 Religious Dominicans of their own Nation. And to keep up their Religion, they 
 fend from time to time, to Rome , certain Children born in the Country, to learn 
 the Latin and Italian Tongues, and other necefTary Sciences. It is thought there are 
 in this Quarter above fix thoufand Souls that absolutely follow the Doctrine of the 
 Church of Rome; only that they fing the Office and the Mafi in the Armenian 
 Tongue, that all the People may hear and underftand them. The Archbifhop, being 
 chofen, is fent to Rome to be confirm'd. He refides at a great Town , which is one 
 of the moft lovely places in all Afia ; the Wine and Fruits that grow there are very 
 delicate, befides the abundance of all other things necefTary for Humane Life. Every 
 Coventftands near a great Village : the chiefeft where I have been twice, is Aba- 
 rener , the fecond Abraghonnex , the third Kerna , the fourth Soletak^, the fifth 
 Kouchkachen , the fixth Giaoukj, the feventh Chiabonnez, , the eighth Araghoitche, 
 the ninth Kauzuk^, the tenth IOfouJ^, which lyes upon the Frontiers of Curdiflan or 
 z^jfyna. Here it is, that the Armenians believe St. Bartholomew and St. Matthew 
 to have been Martyr'd, of which they pretend to fhew fome Rclicks at this day. 
 Many Mahometans came thither out of Devotion , efpecially fuch as are troubl'd 
 
 with 
 
Chap.I V. cf Monfieur Ta vernier. 
 
 with Fevers. There are two or three of thofe Covents, where they civilly entertain 
 fuch Chriftians as come out of Europe ; though the Monks , there , are very poor, 
 They alio live very auftere Lives , feeding upon nothing but Herbs. That which 
 makes them fo poor, is the often change of Tyrannical Governours, whom they 
 are oblig'd to prefent with large Gifts. But in regard they cannot give much, 
 thole Governours have no kindnefs for them-, for which realbn , being inftigated 
 by thofe other Armenians who are able to oblige them , they ufe them lb feverely 
 that they are often fore'd to complain to the King -, which I have many times feen 
 done at Jjfahan. 
 
 A League and a half from the chief of thefe Covents there is a high Mountain, 
 feparated from all the reft, which riles like a Sugar-loaf, as doth the Pike of Tena- 
 riff. At the foot of this Mountain are certain Springs , that have the virtue to 
 heal thofe that arc bit by Serpents-, info much that Serpents carry'dto that place 
 will dye immediately. 
 
 When the Caravan is ready to fet out from Naksivan for Zulfa , which is not 
 above a days journey from thence , the principal Armenians ulually go out of the 
 way to the Covent of St. Stephen , which lyes to the South. 
 
 Now the Road from Naksivan to St. Stephens lyes firft to a great Village call'd 
 Ecclifia , where live the richeft Armenians , that drive a great Trade in Silk , and 
 have built them a very fair Church. 
 
 Two Leagues from Ecclifia you muft crofs the River Aras in a Ferry -Boat, being 
 as it were fqueez'd between two Mountains in that place : Once I went over upon 
 the Ice. About two Musket-fhots from thence , you muft crofs , over a Bridge, 
 another River that falls into the Arai. From the foot of the Bridge you begin to 
 afcend a little Hill , at the top whereof you meet with a great Village, call'd Shamhe y 
 all the Inhabitants whereof, as well Men as Women , grow Mad at 18 years of 
 age •, but it is fuch a Madnefs that is not mifchievous. Some believe it to be the 
 Punifhment of Heaven , for that their Forefathers in thefe Mountains perfecuted 
 St. Bartholomew ahd St. Matthew. 
 
 From hence to St. Stephen's it is not above a League , but the Way is very trouble- 
 fom. St. Stephe/i's is a Covent built not above 30 Years ago. It Hands upon the 
 Mountains , in a barren place , and of difficult accefs. But the reafon why the 
 Armenians chofe that place before any other , is becaufe that St. Bartholomew and 
 St. Matthew retir'd thither in the time of their Perfecution. They add , that 
 St. Matthew did a Miracle in that place : for that there being no Water there before, 
 he only ftrook his Stick upon the Ground , and prefently there arofe a Spring. This 
 Spring is about half a quarter of a League from the Covent, under a Vault with 
 a good Door to it, to keep the Water from being wafted. The Armenians go to vifit 
 this Spring in great Devotion , having laid the Water into the Covent with Pipes. 
 They alio fay, that in this place they found feveral Relicks which St. 'Bartholomew 
 and St. Matthew left there, to which they add a great many others } among the 
 reft a Crofs , made of the Bafin wherein Chrift wafh'd his Difciples Feet : In the 
 middle of the Crofs is a white Stone, which , as they report , if you lay upon a 
 Sick perfon , will turn black if the perfon be likely to dye \ and recover its former 
 whitenefs after the death of the party. 
 
 A Jaw-Bone of St. Stephen the Martyr. 
 
 The Scull of St. Matthew. 
 
 A Bone of the Neck , and a Bone of the Finger of St. John Baptift. 
 
 A Hand of St. Gregory , who was the Difciple of Dionyfim the Areopagite. 
 
 A little Box , wherein they keep a great number of pieces of Bones , which they 
 believe to be the Relicks of the Seventy Two Difciples. 
 
 The Church is built in the form of a Crofs , as are all the Churches of the Arme- 
 nians • in the middle whereof riles a fair Doom, round about which ftand the Twelve 
 Apoftles. Both the Church and Covent are of Free-ftone , and though the whole 
 Edifice be not very big , there has been abundance of Gold and Silver wafted upon 
 the Walls: many Ameman Families have been very much endamag'd thereby ^ for 
 the Women were lb devout, that unknown to their Husbands they fold their Jewels, 
 and their very Cloaths , to defray the Expences of Building. 
 
 The firft time that I was at St. Stephen's , in the company of fome Armenians, 
 two Bishops, attended by fcvcral other Monks, came out to meet us, and led us 
 
 G intc* 
 
x 8 The Persian Travels Book L 
 
 into a great Hall, where we were very well treated. For it is the cuftom of the 
 Armenians , a little before Meals to prefent their Guefts a large Cup of Aqua-vitre, 
 with Sweet-meats of all forts , befides Citron and Orange-peels candy'd , in feven 
 or eight Porcelan-difhes , laid in a great China-Bzdn. This is a little Prelude to 
 excite the Appetite } for the Armenians, both Men and Women , will empty great 
 Cups of Aqua-vitae. After Dinner they go to Church , where they fing certain 
 Hymns : when you return , there are a furhcient number of Mattreffes or Quilts td 
 lye upon ■, for they ufe no other fort of Beds over all Afia : only at Night you i'pread 
 a Carpet upon a Quilt, and fhut the Door. We law not the Archbifhop all that 
 Evening, only at Church. 
 
 About Midnight all the Bells rang, and every body rofe to go to Church. I 
 believe it was more than ufual , becaufe it was Shrovetide ; for both the Office and 
 the Mijfa were both concluded by break of day. Between eight and nine in the 
 Morning the Cloth was laid before which time we faw abundance of the ncigbouring 
 Country People , who brought Wine, Fruits, and other Provifions , and prelentecf 
 all to the Archbifhop. 
 
 While we were at Breakfaft news came that a certain Bifhop was dead , in his 
 return to the Three Churches ; whither he was fent by the Patriarch to gather certain 
 Duties due from the Villages. Immediately the Archbifhop rifmg from the Table 
 with all his Affiftants , and having made a Prayer for the Dead , fent a Bifhop and 
 fix Monks to fetch the Corps - , who returning a little after Midnight, the Body 
 was prefently laid in the Church upon a Carpet fpread upon the Ground , with the 
 Face turn'd toward the Altar. In the mean time , a great number of Wax-candles 
 were lighted , and all the reft of the Night two Monks watch'd by turns to Pray for 
 the Dead. Early in the Morning the Archbifhop, the Bifhops and all in Religious 
 Orders, laid the Office for the Dead, which lafted half an Hour*, and at the end 
 of the Mais they brought the Corps to the Altar, fo that they made the Feet of the 
 Corps to touch it. Having fo done , they took off the Linnen Cloth that cover'd 
 his Head , at which time the Archbifhop anointed him in fix places with the Holy 
 Oyl, faying certain Prayers every time. Then they cover'd him again, and faid other 
 Prayers which lafted half an Hour. Thefe Ceremonies perfortn'd, theycarry'd the 
 Corps out of the Church with Croffes and Banners, and every one a Taper in his 
 Hand. As the Corps pafs'd by, One of the Bifhops put a Paper in his right Hand, 
 containing thefe Words, I came fi\m the Father, and I return to the Father. Being 
 brought to the Grave , upon a little Mountain near the Covent, and fct down, they 
 faid other Prayers which lafted a quarter of a'h Hour. In the mean time a Bifhop 
 going down into the Grave , took away all the Stones and made the place fmooth, 
 after which the Corps was let down wrapt in a large Linnen Sheet. Then the Bifhop, 
 according to their cuftom , rais'd his Head a little higher than his Body, turning 
 his Face to the Eaft. Which being done , the Archbifhop and Affiftants took every 
 one a handful of Earth , which the Archbifhop bleft , and giving it to the Bifhop, 
 he ftrew'd it over the Body. Then the Bifhop coming out again , the Grave was 
 fill'd up. 
 
 From St. Stephen's there is a defcent for a League together to Arai , by the fide 
 whereof you are to keep along till you come to Z-ulfa , where you come into the 
 high Road again. There is another way quite over the Mountain , which is the 
 nearer way by a League, but 'tis very troublefom and toylfom, and therefore the 
 lei's frequented. 
 
 But to return to the High-Road from Naksivan • half a League from Naksivan 
 you meet with a River which falls into Arai, which is to be crofs'd over a Stone- 
 Bridge of 1 2 Arches, though there be but little Water, unlefs it be when the Snow 
 melts, or the Rains fall. In a Meadow, next the Bridge, where we lodg'd one 
 time that I travell'd that way, there is a Spring of lukewarm Water, which will 
 loofen the Bellies of them that drink it. At this Bridge it is that the Toll-gatherer 
 comes and takes his Duties , when the Caravan ftays not at Naksivan. You muft 
 pay ten Abaffts for every Camel's Loading , or nine Livres, which is for the fe- 
 curing the Highways. Thefe Duties are demanded in many places of Perfia with- 
 out fearching the Packs. The Governours alfo in their Provinces are made to anfvver 
 for every Robbery committed : which makes it fo fafe travelling in Perfia, that you 
 need not keep with the Caravan, unlefs you will your felf. 
 
 From 
 
Chap.I V. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 From this Bridge to Zulfa is but one days journey, which Town being altogether 
 ruin'd , (hews the reafon wherefore the Caravan lodges upon the Bank of the River 
 five hundred Paces on this fide. 
 
 Zulfa, the ancient Habitation of the Armenians which Sha-Abas carried into 
 Perfia, is a Town fqueez'd between two Mountains , through which the Aras runs, 
 leaving but little Land on either fide. It carries no Boats till about two Leagues 
 below, (for upward it will hardly bear a piece of Timber) and in regard the 
 Country grows low and extends it felf into Plains, there is no fear of Rocks , the 
 courfe of the Stream being very quiet. There was a fair Stone-Bridge, which 
 Sha-Abas caus'd to be broken down ; when he wholly deftroy'd the Town, that it 
 might be no harbour for the Turks. Neither by the Ruines , nor by its Situation, 
 doth it appear to have been a City of any ancient Beauty the Stones were clapt 
 unskilfully together without Morter , fo that the Houfes were more like Caves 
 than Houfes. The North- Weft fide was moft inhabited , there being nothing on 
 the other fide worth taking notice of. The Lands about Zulfa being very fertil, 
 there are certain Armenian Families return'd, who live very quietly. Cogia Naz.ar t 
 one of the chief Armenians that went out of Zulfa , growing rich by Trade , and 
 being in great reputation with Sha-Abas, and Sha-Sefi his Succeflor, who made him 
 Kelomer, or Chief Judge of the Armenian Nation, built two great Inns, for the 
 Honour of his Country, in Zulfa , upon each fide of the River one. He fpent above 
 an hundred thouland Crowns, but dying left two remarkable Pieces of Work 
 unfinifh'd. 
 
 Half a League on this fide Zulfa, before you crofs a Torrent that falls mtoAras, 
 you may take your choice of two ways to go to Tauris. The one upon the right 
 hand, leading to the South-Eaft , which is the ordinary Road the other upon the 
 left hand, toward the North-Eaft , which we took eight or ten in company together 
 on horfeback , the Iaft time I went to Ijpahan. We left the Caravan , that takes 
 the great Road, and never goes the other way, becaufeitis full of Rocks and Stones 
 that fpoil the hoofs of the Camels. However I was willing to fee a new Country, 
 which I fhall defcribe before I come to the great Road. 
 
 From the Torrent where we left the Caravan , we went forward , and lay at a 
 Village not above a League and a half off. 
 
 The next day, after we had kept along by the Banks of the Aras for five or fix 
 Hours, we came to AJlabat , which lyes a League from the River , where we (laid 
 above two Days to divert our felves. This is but a little City, but a very neat one \ 
 where there are four Inns , and every Houfe has its Fountain. The great plenty of 
 Water makes the City very fruitful in all things •, more efpecially in good Wine. 
 This is the only Country in the World that produces the Ronas, for which there is 
 a vaft utterance all over Perfia and India. The Ronas is a Root that grows in the 
 Earth like Liquorice , and is not much bigger. The ufe of it is to dye Red , and 
 this is that Red which gives that beautiful tintture to al'l the Calicuts that come out 
 of the Mogufs Country. Though the Roots which are pull'd out of the Earth are 
 very long , yet they cut them into pieces not above as long as a Man's Hand , for 
 the better accommodation of Carriage. It is a wonderful thin'g to behold at Ormus 
 whole Caravans laden with this Ronas , whith they Ship off from thence to the 
 Indies. 
 
 The Root is full of Jiiyce , and yields a very high Tinfture } for I remember 
 ' that an Indian Veffel that was laden with it , being caft away in the Road of Ormns, 
 where the Bags of Ronas floated , the Sea look'd of a red colour for feveral 
 days. 
 
 Departing from Afiabat , it behov'd us to provide our felves with Straw and 
 Barley for ourHorfes, underftanding that we fhould meet with none all that days 
 Journey. From thence we travell'd upon a dei'cent for an hour together to the 
 River Aros^ which we crofs'd in a Boaf, and all the reft of the day we travel'd 
 through Mountains, over Torrents and Stones. That Evening we lay upon the 
 Bank of a fmall Stream. 
 
 The day following, after we had travel'd through a fpacious Valley for two or 
 three hours , we afcended a high Mountain , at the top whereof we met with two 
 or three pitiful Houfes , where we ftopt that day. 
 
 The next, which was the fifth after, we left the Caravan, we travel'd upon a 
 
 C Z defcent 
 
20 
 
 The Persian Travels 
 
 Book! 
 
 delcent for two or three hours, till we came to a great Village neatly fituated, 
 where there grows excellent Fruit. There we repos'd for an hour or two and 
 from thence we came to a great Stone-Bridge on a River where there is no Water 
 but when the Rains fall. It falls into the Lake Roumi ; but the Water of the River 
 is lb fowr and ill-tafted, efpecially when it is low , that it is not to be drunk. About 
 a quarter of a League from the Bridge are three long Stones let in the Ground like 
 Pillars : the Natives fay that they were plac'd there for a Monument, in the fame 
 place where Darius the Son of Hyfiajpes was cle&ed King by the cunning of the 
 Gentleman of his Horle : from whence to Tanris is but half a League. The Moun- 
 tains of the Medcs which we crofs'd in this Road, and thofe which run along toward 
 the ancient Parthians , are the moft fertil in all Perjia. They bear Corn and Fruit 
 m abundance-, for upon the high Mountains there are fair Plains fow'd with Wheat, 
 which are extraordinary fertil. The Springs which rife there, and Rains which 
 fall give a frefher beauty and a higher taft to what grows there , more than in any 
 other part of Perjia that wants Water , and the produces of thofe Fields are of a highef 
 price. 
 
 Now for the great Road. The Caravan having crofs'd the Stream where we left 
 it, lodges the next Night upon the Banks of Aras, over which it ferries the next Mor- 
 ning. It does not go thorough Zulfa , though it be fo near it becaule that on 
 the other fide of the City there are three Leagues of Way very bad and unfre- 
 quented. For which reafon you muft leave Zulfa on the right hand , which is not 
 much out of the way. After two hours travel you go by a Bridge which is call'd 
 Sugiac-, after which you come upon Heaths encompafs'd with high Rocks. All this 
 days journey you meet with no Water, but only one little Fountain, and the Water 
 is lb bad that the Beads will hardly drink it. 
 
 The day following you travel through an even Country, but very barren : where 
 you meet with nothing but a forlorn Inn ; though it be a place where Colt has been 
 beftow'd , and built all of Free-ftone, that was fetch'd a great way off. The next 
 Stage is Marante, famous for the Burying-place of AWj's Wife. The Town is not very 
 big :, refembling rather a Thicket than a City : but the fituation is very pleafant, in 
 the middle of a fertil Plain adorn'd with feveral well peopPd Villages. This Plain 
 does not extend above a League round about Marante , the Country beyond it 
 being all barren. However it is not altogether unprofitable : for being a continual 
 Heath , it affords feeding for the Camels , which are there bred for the Caravans. 
 Which is the reafon that there are fo many Camel-Mafters at Sugiac and Marante, 
 who furnifh great part of the Road. At Marante you muft pay thirteen Ahajfi's, or 
 four Crowns for every Camel's Load , for the fecurity of the Road. 
 
 Leaving Marante, you lodge the next night a League from Sophiana in a bufhy 
 Plain, where the Water is worth nothing :, after you have travell'd a mix'd Country, 
 barren enough , where you meet with but one Inn in a Valley : but it is a very- 
 fair one. Sophiana is an indifferent large City, which you cannot fee till you come 
 within it, by reafon of the great number of Trees planted in the Streets and round 
 » bout it , which makes it look rather like a Foreft than a City. 
 
 The next day, which is ufually the tenth days journey from Erivan , the Caravan, 
 having crofs'd fair, large and fertil Plains, arrives at Tanris. Thofe Plains are water'd 
 with feveral Streams that fall from the Median Mountains } but the Water is not 
 all of the fame goodnefs, for there is fome which cannot be drunk. 
 
 In the snid-way between Sophiana and Tanris, lyes a Hill, from whence you have ' 
 a profpett over thofe Plains , upon which the Army of Sultan Amurath Encamp'd, 
 when he befieg'd Tanris. The news coming to Sha-Sefi King of Perjia, that he 
 had burnt it , and was marching further into the Country with a hundred thoufand 
 Men , Let him come , laid he , without any difiurbance , / know how to make the Turks 
 pay for their lnvafon without any great trouble. They were then not above fifteen 
 days march from Jjpahan, when Sha-Sefi turn'd the courfe of all the Streams both 
 before and behind , which only run from certain Springs , and are brought in Cutts 
 or Chanels into the Inland-parts of Perjia , where there are no Rivers : By which- 
 mcans the whole Army of the Turks perifh'd for want of Water in thofe vaft un- 
 water'd Countries where they had engag'd themfelvcs too far. 
 
 Tanris lyes in 83 Degrees, 3 o Minutes of Longitude ^ and 40 Degrees, 15 Mi- 
 nutes of Latitude , in an open place where there is not a Tree to be leen and 
 
 environ'd 
 
Chap.IV. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 21 
 
 cnviron'd with Mountains on every fide, but only upon the Weft. The furtheft 
 Mountain is not above a League from the City, but there is one which almoft 
 touches it , being only feparated from it by the River. Tis a good Country, and 
 fruitful in Corn ; there is good Pafturage , and great ftore of Pulfe. Some think 
 that Tauris was the ancient Ecbatane , the Metropolis of the Empire of the Medes. 
 It is at this day a great City and well peopl'd , as being the Mart for Turkic 
 Mufcovy , the Indies , and Per fa. There are an infinite number of Merchants, 
 and vaft quantities of all forts of Merchandize : particularly of Silk , which is 
 brought out of the Province of Guilan , and other places. There is alio a great 
 Trade for Horfes, which are handfom and cheap. Wine, Aqua-vitae, and indeed 
 all forts of Provisions are cheap enough •, and Money trolls about in that place 
 more than in any other part of A(ia. Many Armenian Families have got great Eftates 
 there by Trade, and underftand it better than the Per fans. A little River , the 
 Water whereof is very good , runs through the middle of Tauris ; it's call'd Schein- 
 kaie , over which there are three Bridges to crofs from one part of the City to the 
 other. 
 
 The moft part of the Buildings in Tauris are of Bricks bak'd in the Sun •, the 
 Houfes not being above one or two Stories high at moft. The tops of the Houfes 
 are terrafs'd ; the Roofs within are vaulted, and plaifter'd with Earth mix'd with 
 chopt Straw, which they whiten afterwards with Lime. In the year 1638 the 
 City was almoft ruin'd by Sultan Amur ath; but it is almoftall rebuilt again. There 
 are in it Baz.ars , or Market-houfes , which are well built, and many Inns very 
 commodious , two Stories high. The faireft is that of Mirz.a-Sade, Governour of $ 
 the Province , who caus'd it to be built with a Market-houfe adjoyning , to which 
 he has added a Mofquee and a Colledge, with good Revenues. 
 
 The great Trade of Tauris renders it renown'd over all Afia ; for it has a con- 
 tinual Traffick with Turks, Arabians, Georgians, Mengrelians , Per fans , Indians, 
 Muscovites , and Tartars. The Bazars or Market-houfes , which are cover'd , are 
 always full of Goods : for there are fome which are peculiar to the Handicraft- 
 Trades ; the moft part whereof are Smiths, fuch as make Saws, Axes, Files, and 
 Steels to ftrike Fire , with Tobacco-ftoppers belonging to them. Some there are 
 that make Pad-locks : for the Eaftern People fallen their Doors only with wooden 
 Bolts. There are alfo Turners, that furnifh the neighbouring Parts With Spinning- 
 Wheels and Cradles : and fome Goldfmiths, that make trifles of Silver. But there is 
 abundance of Silk-weavers that are Artifts, and work very neatly, and indeed there 
 are more of thofe than of any other Trade. Here it is that they drefs the greateft 
 part of the Shagrin-Skins that are vended fo plentifully all over Per fa; for there 
 are none unlefs it be the Country-people, but wear Boots or Shooes of Shagrin- 
 Leather. This Leather is made either of the Hides of Horfes , Afies , or Mules, 
 and only of the hinder part of the Hide : but the AfTes Hide has the beft 
 grain. 
 
 There are to be feen at Tauris, Ruines of the ftately Edifices round about 
 the great Piaz.z.a, and the neighbouring Pacts: they hove alfo let run to ruine 
 four or five Mofquees of a prodigious height and bignefs. The moft magnificent 
 and the biggeft (lands as you go out of the Town , in the Road to Ijpahan. The 
 Per fans will not come near it, but look upon it as defil'd , and a Mofquee of He- 
 reticks , in regard it was built by the Sounnis , or the followers of Omar. 'Tis a 
 vaft Structure fairly built , the Front whereof is fifty Paces broad , with an afcent 
 of eight Steps. It is lin'd without with Brick-work varniih'd with different Co- 
 lours *, and adorn'd within with' very fair Painting A F antique , and abundance of 
 Cifers and Arabian Letters in Gold and Azure. Upon two fides of the Fore-front 
 are rear'd two Minarets or Towers very high , but not very wide , yet with Stairs 
 to go up to the top. They are lin'd with varnifh'd Brick-work , which is the ufual 
 Ornament of the Per fan Buildings : and at the top ftand two Cupola's, form'd like 
 the Turbants which the Per fans wear. The Gate of the Mofquee is not above four 
 Foot wide , cut out of a great tranlparent white Stone, four and twenty Foot high, 
 and twelve broad. Entring at the Door of the Mofquee , you come into a fpacious 
 'Duomo , thirty fix Paces in Diameter , rais'd upon twelve Pillars within , and lup- 
 ported by fixteen without , which Pillars are very high, and fix Foot fquare. Below 
 there is a Baluftrade or Rails that run round about the Building ? with Doors to go 
 
 Crom 
 
11 
 
 The Persian Travels Book I. 
 
 from one fide to the other: and the Foot of every Pillar, which is of white Marble^ 
 is hollow'd into little Niches equal with the Floor, where the People put their 
 Shooes , when they go farther to their Devotions. The infide of the Walls is 
 varnifti'd in Squares ot feveral Colours , with Flowers, Cifers, and Arabian Letters 
 intermix'd , and wrought in Emboi's'd-work , fo well painted, ib well gilded, 
 that it feems to be but one piece of Work, cut out with a pair of ScifTars. From this 
 Duomo you pafs to another lefTer , but roore beautiful in its kind. The lower 
 part is of tranfparent white Stone , of the fame nature with that in the Front, cut 
 in great Panes like a Door that never opens. This Duomo has no Pillars , but eight 
 Foot high , it is all of white Marble , where are to be feen Stones of a prodigious 
 length and bredth : The infide of the Vault is a violet Enamel , painted with all 
 forts of Flowers in Flat-work , but the outfide of both the Duomo's is cover'd with 
 vcrnifh'd Brick-work , and Flowers embofs'd A la Morefyue. Upon the firft the 
 Flowers are black upon green upon the fecond , white Stars upon black : which 
 diverfity of Colours is very pleafing to the Eye. 
 
 Near the Door out of which you enter into the letter Duomo , on the left hand^ 
 Hands a Chair of Walnut-tree curioufly carv'd, and faften'd to the Wall it ftands 
 upon a Platform rais'd fix Heps high , without any Canopy. On the right hand 
 ftands another Chair of the fame Wood, and an exquifite piece of Workmanfhip} 
 with a kind of State over it of the fame Wood , faften'd to the Wall. There is 
 a little Rail about if, and the Platform is four fteps high. On the South-fide of 
 the Mofquee there are two white tranfparent Stones , which when the Sun fhincs 
 | upon them look red : And fometimes after the Sun is fet, you may read at thofe 
 Stones by the reflexion of the Sun-beams. 
 
 Juft againft the Mofquee on the other fide is another Front , which is the only 
 Remain of a ruin'd Building. It was the abode of the Sheck^Iman, or the Chief Prieft. 
 There had been' large Baths which belonging to it, but they are all deftroy'd*, 
 fome others there were of lefs note , which are not lookt after. 
 
 In the great Piazza of T auris and in the parts adjoyning , ftands a fair Mofquee, 
 a Colledge , and a Caftle , which fall to decay } thefe Buildings being forfaken ^ 
 by reafon they were made ufe of by the Sounni's, which were followers of Omar. Near 
 the fame Church is a ruin'd Church of the Armenians , whether they fay St. Helena 
 lent the true Crofs. There is another Mofquee , which was formerly a Church 
 dedicated to St. John Baptift , where they fay one of his Hands was preferv'd a long 
 time. 
 
 The Capuchins have a very convenient Houfe at Tauris ; for Mirz.a-Ibrahim Go- 
 vernour of the Province, whole credit is equal to the Kan of Tauris , which is 
 the chiefeft Command in Perfia, favours him very much with his protection. This 
 Governour has made himfelf very confiderable at Court , and very much refpe&ed 
 by the King for his indefatigable pains, and his extraordinary agility in augmenting 
 the King's Revenue : having found out fuch ways for that purpofe as never entred 
 into the thoughts of any that preceded him in the fame Employment. He is very 
 curious to learn all the Noble Sciences,which is a quality very rare among the Ttrfians : 
 He alfo takes great delight in the Mathematicks and Philofophy, difcourfing often 
 with Gabriel de Cninon , Governour of the Capuchins Covent in Tauris. But the 
 great defire which Mirz,a-Ibrahim had to have his two Sons taught by the faid 
 Gabriel , was the chief motive that made him fo favourable to that Covent. He 
 bought the Friers a place to build their Houfe, and liberally furnifh'd them for the 
 Expence of the Work. 
 
 When the Sun fets and rifes , there are a certain Company of People who are 
 oblig'd to make a hideous noile with Drums and Trumpets in the Meidan, or great 
 Piazza of the City. They ftand upon one fide of the Piazza in a Gallery fomewhat 
 rais'd $ which is a Cuftom obferv'd in all the Cities under the Perftan Government. 
 
 As you go out of Tauris upon the North-fide , there is a Mountain clofe by, 
 there being only the River between it. The name of it is Binali-Zeinali, and for- 
 merly there ftood upon the top of it a fair Hermitage of the Armenians , which the 
 Mahometans have converted into a Mofquee. At the bottom of the Mountain 
 ftands a Fortrefs and a Mofquee, which they let go to ruine, becaufe they were built 
 by the Ottomans. A little farther upon the brink of the Precipice ftands a Mona- 
 ftery, near to which are twoCaves, where are certain Sepulchers and Marble Pillars 
 
Chap.IV. of Moofieur Tavernier. 
 
 2? 
 
 lying along upon the Ground. There are alfo in the Mofquee certain Tombs of 
 the ancient Kings of the Medcs , the Remains whereof fhew that the Work was 
 very Excellent. 
 
 Upon the Road from Tktfris to Jjpahan, about half a League from the utmoft 
 Gardens , between leveral knaps of the Mountain which you leave upon the 
 right hand , upon the top of the higheft of all , where there never was any Water, 
 jfhd where it is impoiTible to bring any, appears a Bridge fifty Paces long, the 
 Arches whereof are very fair ones, but it falls to decay. It was a Mollah that built 
 it, out of what defign no perlbn knew: nor can you come to' Tauris upon that fide, 
 but you mud fee that Bridge , becaule there is no other way, there being nothing 
 but Water and Precipices on either hand. Afterwards he confefs'd that he built 
 it out of meer Vanity, knowing that Sha-Abas y the 6rft of that Name was to come 
 to Tauris. The King indeed came fome time after, and feeing an unprofitable 
 Bridge upon the top of a Mountain, he demanded who built it, and what was his 
 defign. To whom the Mollah retum'd this Anfwer, Sir, faid he, I built that 
 Bridge , that when your Majefty came to Tauris, you might inform your felf from 
 the mouth of him that built it. By which it appear'd , that the Mollah had no other 
 ambition than to oblige the King to fpeak to him. 
 
 A League from Tarn is to the Weft, in the middle of a Field (lands a great Brick 
 Tower, call'd Kanhaz.m. It is about fifty Paces in Diameter, and though it be half 
 ruin'd , yet it is very high. It feems- to have been the Dungeon of fome Caftle, 
 there being very high Walls round about it \ which though they be but of Earth, 
 neverthelefs appear to be very ancient. It is not certainly known who built this ( 
 Tower , but the Arabian Letters upon the Gate afford us fome reafon to conclude 
 that it was a Mahometan Structure. Ih the year 1 65 1 there happen'd a terrible 
 Earthquake in Tauris and. the parts thereabout , by which many Houfes were over- 
 turned , and this Tower then cleaving from the top to the bottom , a good part of 
 it fell down , and filPd up the hollow within-fide. 1 
 
 Befides the little River that runs by Tauris , there is another bigger to be crofs'd, 
 about half a League from the City, over which there is a very fair Stone-Bridge. 
 Near to it ftands a Sepulcher, cover'd with a little Duomo , where the Perfians fay 
 that the Sifter of Iman-Riz^a lyes interr'd } and they have it in great veneration. The 
 River that runs under the Bridge comes from the Mountains of the North , and falls 
 into the Lake Roumi, thirteen or fourteen Leagues from Tauris. They call it Aggi- 
 fan , or Bitter-water ; for the Water is very bad , and without any Fifh. The Lake 
 which is fifteen Leagues in compafs , has the fame quality, the Water being blackifh : 
 the Fifh that happen into it out of other Rivers that fall into it, prefently become 
 blind', and in a fhort while are found dead by the Shoar. This Lake takes its name 
 from a Province and 3 little City, which are both call'd Renmi, being not above eleven 
 Leagues from Tauris. 
 
 In the middle of the Lake , upon the way that leads to a little City call'd Tokg- 
 riam, there is a little Hill that riles infenfibly, the afcent whereof is very fmooth, 
 and out of it there rife many little Springs. The farther they run from the Head, 
 the wider grow the Streams : and the Earth which they water is of two diftinft 
 qualities : the firft Earth that is dig'd ferves to make Lime : the next to that is a 
 hollow fpungy Stone , that is good for nothing : but under that again is a white 
 tranfparent Stone , which you may fee through as through Glafe , which being fmooth 
 and polifh'd ferves to adorn the Houfes. This Stone is only a congelation of the 
 Waters of thefe Streams for fometimes you fhall meet with creeping Animals con- 
 geaPd within. The Governour of the Province feat one piece to Sha-Abas, as a 
 great Prefent, wherein there was a Lizard congeal'd of a Foot long. He that pre- 
 fented it to the Governour had twenty Tomans , or three hundred CroWns ; after- 
 wards I offer'd a thoufand for the fame Piece. In fome parts of the Province of 
 Maz,andran , where the Euxin Sea ftretches fartheft into the Per fan Territories, thefe 
 congeal'd Stones are to be found , but not fo frequently as near the Lake Rcumi ; and 
 you fhall many times find pieces of Wood and Worms congeal'd in the Stones. 
 I brought away a Camels-loading of thefe Stones j and left them at Marfeilics ; till 
 I eould find what ufe to put them to. 
 
 CHAP- 
 
'The Persian ^Travels Book L 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 A Continuation of the Conftantinopolitan %pad from Tauris to 
 Ifpahan , through Ardevil and Casbin. 
 
 FRom Tauris to Ifpahan the Caravan makes it generally twenty-four days 
 journey. 
 The firft day you crofs over dry Mountains , and four Leagues from 
 Tauris you meet with one of the faireft Inns in Perfia. This Inn Sha-Sefi 
 caus'd to be built *, it is very convenient , and large enough to lodge a hundred 
 perfons with their Horfes. Over all Terfia , efpecially from Tauris to IJpahan, 
 and from thence to Ormus , you meet every day with Inns at an equal diftance. 
 
 The next day youdefcend a Mountain, in very rugged and narrow way. At 
 the foot of this Mountain there are two ways for the Merchants to choofe that will 
 go to Jjpahan. They that will go the ordinary road and the direct way through 
 Kom and" Kachan , leave a Lake upon the left hand that parts the two Roads •, and 
 they that will go through Ardevil and Cajbin , two other good Cities , leave the Lake 
 upon the right hand , and coaft along by the fide of the Mountain. From Tauris 
 to Ardevil it is not above a dozen Leagues *, and having pafs'd the Lake, the Country 
 is very good : Which is the Road I intend to defcribe firft. 
 
 Ardevil being at fo fmall a diftance from Tauris, lyes almoft in the fame Degrees 
 and Minutes of Longitude and Latitude. This City is famous , as well for being 
 the firft Market of Silks that come from Guilan , from which it is not far off ^ as alio 
 for the Sepulcher of Sha-Sefi, the firft of that Name , King of Perfia. The avenues 
 to it are very pleafant , being as it were Alleys of great Trees, which are calPd 
 Tchinar, planted in a ftreight line , at a due diftance. It is of a moderate bignefs, 
 and leated in a lovely opening of the Mountains. The next to the City, which is 
 call'd Sevalanj is the higheft in all Media. The Houfes of Ardevil are built of 
 Earth , as are moft of the Houfes in the Cities of Perfia .- but the Streets are very 
 uneven , dirty , and narrow. There is but one which is handlbm , at the end 
 whereof is built the Armenian Church. A little River runs through the middle of 
 the City , which defcending from the neighbouring Mountains runs from Eaft to 
 Weft. It, is by Induftry brought into many Cutts to water the Gardens , and in 
 many places there are very fair Trees planted, which are very delightful to the Sight. 
 The Meydan or Market-place is a very great one more long than round where ftands 
 a very fine Inn, upon one fide, which the Kan caus'd to be built. There are feveral 
 others in Ieveral parts of the City, which have the Profpect over feveral lovely Gar- 
 dens, efpecially that which belongs to the King-, to which you go through a long 
 •and {lately Walk of four rows of Trees , at the end whereof ftands a large Gate 
 that gives you entrance. Though the Country about Ardevil be proper to bear 
 Vines , yet there are none thereabouts *, nor is there any Wine made till about four 
 or five Leagues from the City. The Armenians that dwell in the City are very Well 
 ftor'd with if, though there be no place in all Perfia, where there is fo much 
 Caution to be us'd , either as to the Importing it, or the Drinking if, both which 
 muft be done very privately : Which proceeds from the Mahometan Superftition •, 
 the Perfians having lb peculiar a Veneration for that place , that they believe it a 
 Sin to fuffer Wine to be publickly drank therein. 
 
 The People come in Pilgrimage from all parts of Perfia to the Sepucher of Sha- 
 Sefi-, which together with thevaft Trade of Silk, makes Ardevil one of the moft 
 considerable Cities of all Perfia. There are feveral other Buildings added to the 
 Mofcjuee wherein he lyes interr'd-, the Entry whereof faces the Meydan, to which 
 it is jovn'd upon the South-fide with a large Portal. The Gate is chain'd with 
 Chains faften'd a-crois with great Rings - , which if any Criminal Offender can but 
 touch, and enter into the firft Court, he isfafe \ for no perfon can apprehend him. 
 This is a large Court, yet more in length than breadth , without the Wall whereof 
 that looks upon the Market-place, feveral Shops are built for Merchants and Tradel- 
 nien. 
 
 Out 
 
Chap. V. of Monfieur Tavernier, 
 
 Out of this Court you pafs into another which is Iefs , and pav'd with broad 
 Stones, with a Rivulet running through the middle. The Entry into it is through 
 a Door, fortifi'cl with Iron Chains like the former, and is made at a corner of the 
 great Court upon the left hand. It brings you prefently under a Portico , where 
 there are fair Balconies rais'd after the fafhion of the Country. Thofe Balconies 
 are full of feveral People either Pilgrims , or perfons whofe Crimes conftrain them 
 thither for Sanctuary. In that place you muft leave your Stick and your Sword, 
 before you go any farther ^ and give fomething befides to a Monllah, who is always 
 attending there with Books. 
 
 In that fecond Court through which the Rivulet glides , on the one fide are Baths, 
 on the other Granaries for Rice and Corn ^ and upon the left hand , at the end of 
 the fame Court, there is a little Door which brings you to a place where the Royal 
 Alms are diftributed to the Poor, Morning and Evening-, being juft againft the 
 King's Kitchin. This Gate is cover'd with Plates of Silver ; and in the Kitchin 
 there are about thirty Ovens contriv'd in the Wall , with as many great Caldrons 
 to drefs Pilaw and other Food, as well for the Poor as for the Officers of the Mofquee. 
 While thefe Alms are diftributing , the Mafter-Cook , who commands all the reft, 
 fets upon a Chair cover'd with Plates of Silver, and lees that every thing be done in 
 order. He fees to the meafuring out the Rice every day for the Kettles, and 
 caufes the Victuals to be divided in his own fight: For there is an excellent Oeco- 
 noray in the King's Houfe. 
 
 At the end of the Portico beyond the firft Court there are two Gates, one beyond 
 another, both cover'd with Plates of Silver; between thofe two Gates on the 
 right hand appears a little Mofquee, where are the Tombs of feveral Perfian Princes 
 of the Blood Royal. You muft have a great care not to tread upon the Threfholds 
 of the Gates', for it is a Crime not to be expiated without a fevere Punifhment. 
 From hence through a little He , you come into the Body of the Church, richly 
 hung with Tapeftry, and fet about with high Desks , where lye a great many Books, 
 wherein the Moullahs , or Doctors of the Law read continually , having Stipends 
 to Officiate in the Mofquee. At the end of the Body of the Mofquee , is a little 
 Octagonal Monument, like the Choir of a Church, in the midft whereof ftands the 
 Monument of Sha-Sefi. It is only of Wood, but curioufly carv'd and inlaid. It 
 exceeds not the height of a Man of an ordinary ftature , and feems like a great Cheft, 
 having four Apples of Gold fet up at each corner. It is cover'd with a Crimfon 
 Satin purfl'd with Gold ^ and all the other Tombs that are by it , are cover'd with 
 Silks as rich. As well in the Choir as in the Body of the Church , there are abun- 
 dance of Lamps, fome of Gold , fome of Silver-, but the biggeft of altflis of Silver, 
 gilded and vermilion'd, and neatly engrav'd. There are alfo fix great Branches of a 
 curious fort of Wood, cover'd with Silver, with great Wax Candles in them which 
 are never lighted but at their great Feftivals. 
 
 From the Duomo where ftands the Tomb of Sha-Sefi , you go under a little Vault, 
 which enclofes another Monument of another King of Perfia , whofe Name I could 
 not learn. It looks like another great Cheft, curioufly wrought, and cover'd 
 with Satin. The Roof of the Mofquee. is adorn'd within with a Painting of Gold 
 and Azure, a la Moresque ; on the outfide, with a fair Varnifh of feveral Colours, 
 like the {lately Mofquee at Tauris. \ , . 
 
 Iri the adjacent Parts round about Ardeiiil are feveral Monuments worth a Man's 
 fight, being very ancient} and fome which are ruin'd, fhew by what remains the 
 care which they took to enrich them with curious Workmanfhip. A quarter of 
 a League from the City ftands a Mofquee , in which are the Tombs of the Father 
 and Mother of Sha-Sefi. It is a fair Structure , with Gardens and Courts , in one 
 of which there is a very clear Fountain where they keep Fifh. 
 
 Ardenil is not only famous, as I have faid already , for the Royal Sepulchers 
 which are in it , and for the Pilgrimages which have been macle to it from all parts 
 of Perfia ; but the numerous Caravans of Silk, which fometimes confift of eight or 
 nine hundred Camels > add very much to its Grandeur. For being near to (fniUn 
 and Shamaquiy from whence thofe vaft quantities of Siik come*, and for that the 
 Road from both thofe places , to Confiantinople and Smyrna , lyes through this City, 
 there is a continual confluence of Merchants, and all forts of Merchandizes are here 
 to be had as well as at Tauris.- , . 
 
 D From 
 
— . 
 
 26 The Persian Travels Book I. 
 
 From Arde'nil to Cajbin you travel through a good Country for every three or 
 four Leagues you meet with little Rivers that tall from the Northern Mountains, 
 and water the Earth. The Caravan is ufually five days between Ardeuil and Arion, 
 between Arion and Taron two , between Taron and Cajbin two more. Half a League 
 on this fide Taron you muft crofs a great River over a ftone Bridge, and half a League 
 beyond you come to Kalkal. 
 
 usirion is a little City, Taron and Kalkal are two great Towns*, and there are 
 but thefe three places in all Terfia where there grow any Olives, or that they make 
 any Oyl. Leaving Kalkal, you travel over a Plain for three hours, at the end whereof 
 is a Way which you cannot get over in Iefs than four hours. The way is fo bad that the 
 Horfes and Mules can hardly get up but for the Camels, they muft take the lower 
 Road, which is alio very tedious, and full of Stones which the Torrents tumble down, 
 and it is three or four Leagues about. When you are up , the Country is level, 
 and you have not above three Leagues to Cajbin. 
 
 Cajbin lyes in 87 Degrees and 30 Minutes of Longitude, and 36 Degrees and 
 1 5 Minutes of Latitude. It is a great City, the Houfes whereof are low and ill 
 built ; except feven or eight , which are next to the King's Gardens. It has no 
 Walls , and indeed the beft half of the City is in Gardens. There are three Inns, 
 with Market-places round about ; one of the three being large and commodious. 
 It is inhabited altogether by Mahometans j or if there be any Chriftians , they are 
 very few. 
 
 The Soil about Cajbin produces Piftaches. The Tree that bears them is never 
 bigger than a Walnut-tree of ten or twelve years old. The great quantity of Pifta- 
 ches that are exported out of Ferfia come from Malavert, a little City twelve Leagues 
 from IJpahan , toward the Eaft. Thefe are the beft Piftaches in the World , and 
 the Country being of a large extent, produces them in fuch abundance, that it 
 furnifties all Perjia and the Indies. 
 
 Leaving Cajbin , you come to a little Village where there is but one Inn and you 
 travel that day fix Leagues through Countries fertil enough , and well water'd. 
 
 The next day you travel through a good Country, and in nine or ten hours you 
 come to Denghe. This is a great Village at the foot of a Hill , through which there 
 runs a fair River. It abounds with excellent both White and Claret Wine , where 
 the Travellers take care to replenifh their Bottles. But generally they never lye 
 here \ being defirous to go a League farther , for a good Inn's lake , which makes it 
 a handfom Stage. 
 
 At this Town of Denghe it is where the two Roads from Tauris to Jjpahan meet c 
 the firft, through Ardeuil and Cajbin , I have already defcrib'd. Hither alfo come 
 the Caravans that go for the Indies through Mejhe'hed and Candahar, and where they 
 leave IJpahan Road to take the left-hand Way , which carries them Eaftward . 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 The ordinary %oad from Tauris to Iipahan , through Zangan, 
 Sultanie, and other places. 
 
 WE muft now return again to the Lake fix Leagues beyond Tauris, 
 where they that will take the ordinary (hort way through Zan- 
 gan and Sultanie , leave the left hand way ©f Ardeuil and 
 Cajbin. This Lake is ufually full of large red Ducks , which 
 are very good Meat. 
 
 From thence, after twelve or thirteen hours travel , in which time you meet with 
 three Inns, you come to Karajhima, a large Town in a deep Valley, that feeras to 
 be well manur'd. There is in it only a fmall Inn built of Earth, the Doors whereof 
 are fo low, that the People are forc'd to creep upon their knees to get in. 
 
 The next day you come to another large Village calPd Turcema, where the Soil 
 is fertil, though it be very cold. There are feveral Caravanjera's built like a long 
 
 Alley 
 
Chap, VI. of Morifieur Ta vernier. 
 
 Alley cover'd , which are only of Earth, the Men lying at one end , and theHorfes 
 at another. 
 
 The next day you travel over an uneven and defert Country, and in eight hours 
 time you come to Mima , a little City fituated in a Marfti , where you pay a Toll 
 for Guarding the Highways. In this City is one of the faireft Inns in all 
 Perjia. 
 
 Two hours after you leave Afiana, you muft crofs a River, over a fair Bridge 
 which runs to decay the Arches whereof are hollow within it is built o/ Brick 
 and Free-ftone , being near as long as Pont nenf in Paris. This Bridge ftands almoft 
 at the foot of a Mountain calPd Kaplenton. Sha-Abas caus'd all the way to be Pav'd, 
 becaufe the Land is fo fat and floughy, that when it thaws, or that the leaft Rain 
 falls , it is impoflible for the Caravan to pafs. Befides , there are a fort of Camels 
 in Perfia , that when it comes to rain in a deep Soil , are not able to keep their 
 Legs: nay through the weight of the Burthens which they carry, their very Quarters 
 will rive from their Shoulders , and their Bellies will burft. So that before the 
 way was pav'd , they were forc'd to fpread Carpets in the moft flippery ways where 
 thofe Camels were to pafs : which muft be ftill done in fome places , where the Pave- 
 ment is worn away. 
 
 At the lower part of the defcent toward IJpaban , upon the knap of a Hill which 
 ftands by it felf, appears an old forfak'n Fortrefs: it is near the Highway, and a 
 River , which falls into the Cajfian Sea, after it has crofs'd the Province of gnilan } 
 where it is cut into feveral Channels. But generally the Corn and Fruits which 
 grow in Perfia by the help of Water forc'd into Channels, are of little efteem, 
 and much cheaper than thofe that grow in the Provinces whole Fertility is not Arti- 
 ficial. Moreover, that fort of forc'd Grain will not keep above a Year^ and if 
 you keep it longer, it breeds a Vermin that eats it. 'Tis the fame thing if the Corn be 
 growndi and more than that, there breeds a Worm in the Flowr, that makes it 
 lb bitter that tis impoflible to eat it. 
 
 On this fide the Mountain Kaplenton i appear at a diftancetwo others very high, 
 one toward the North call'd Saveland , another toward the South call'd Seband: 
 there is a third , which cannot be feen in IJpaban-Rozd , being too far out of the 
 way, near the City of Hamadan. Thefe three Mountains are full of Springs , from 
 whence moft of the Streams do fall that water Perfia : And the Perfians do fay, 
 that formerly there were many more of thefe Springs , but that about a hundred 
 Years ago feveral of them have been dry'd up , or otherwife no body can tell what 
 is become of them. 
 
 There are feveral Villages near the Mountain that pay nothing to the King , but 
 are oblig'd to fend him a certain quantity of Rice and Butter,for the ufe of the Mofqnee 
 at Ardetiil. They have alfo one great Priviledge , That if a Man commits a Mur- 
 ther, andflyes to any of thefe Villages , he cannot be apprehended, nor can the 
 King himfelf punifh him. 
 
 Leaving the River that runs at the foot of the Mountain Kaplenton , you come to 
 a fair Inn call'd Tjhamalava, built fome years ago : and for thirteen hours after, 
 travelling over a very barren Country, you meet with another Inn , which is call'd 
 Sartcbam , {landing in a very defert place : which makes the Raders, that lye there 
 to fecure the Highways , very infolent , finding themfelves fo far from any Towns 
 or Villages. 
 
 From Sartcbam you come to a River, by the Banks whereof you travel a good 
 while , till you come to an Inn, which is call'd Digbe , near a large Village. The 
 Structure is very handfom , the lower part being of Free-ftone undulated with red 
 and white , and very hard. 
 
 The next day you travel a very uneven Country, till you fall into a deep Valley, 
 at the end whereof you meet with Zangan , a great Town and ill built. How- 
 ever, it has a very fair- Inn, which when I went laft to Jjpaban was fo full, that 
 I had like to have lain abroad in the Rain , but for the Courtefie of two Armenians. 
 From Zangan you go to an Inn, where, you muft pay the Duties due to the Kan 
 of Sultanie. 
 
 Shltanie is a very large City , which you leave half a Mile from the Road , near 
 to a Mountain. Formerly it had in it very beautiful Mofquees , as may be eafily 
 conjectur'd by the Ruines that remain. Many Chriftian Churches alfo were con- 
 
 D 2 verted 
 
- - 1 
 
 28 
 
 The P e r s i a n Travels 
 
 Book I. 
 
 verted into Mofquees ; and if you will beleive the Armenians , they will tell you, 
 that there were in Sultanie near eight hundred Churches and Chappels. 
 
 Three Leagues from Sultanie (lands an Inn , and a League farther a great Town 
 call'd Ija, where there is another very commodious Inn, and moft excellent 
 Wine. 
 
 From thence you go to Habar, an ancient City and of a large extent , but very 
 much ruin'd, inhabited by Armenians for the moft part : Here , for the good Wines 
 fake thf Travellers day to recruit their Bottles. 
 
 From Habar , after feven hours travel you come to a Village call'd Partin. From 
 Zangan to Tartin you reach in two days. It (lands in a fertil Plain , where there 
 are feveral other Villages. It is not above three Leagues broad , being enclosed on 
 each fide , to the Eaft and Well , with a row of high Mountains. 
 ■ Having pafs'd this Plain , you come to a barren Country and ill inhabited , which 
 lads all the day, till you come to Sexava. You pafs by the Ruines of a Village, 
 where there are but two Houfes (landing , with the Tower of a Mofquee , which 
 is very high and (lender. Then you come to a Mud-wall'd-Inn , built fome few years 
 fince-, and near to that a Caftle call'd Khiara, upon the peek of a Hill , but very 
 ill built. 
 
 Sexava is a little City in a Soil that bears excellent Nuts. The Inns that are 
 there, being built of Earth , and being but little , are very handfom and convenient, 
 their number fupplying the defeft of their fmalnefs. 
 
 From Sexava , after feven hours travel, you come to a great Inn , call'd Idgioup, 
 which was formerly a nobler place than now it is, (landing alone in a Field. Three 
 Leagues from thence you meet with another (pacious Inn , call'd Cochkeria • and 
 four hours farther you come to the Inn Denghe , where the two Roads meet which 
 I fpake of in the foregoing Chapter. 
 
 From Denghe to Kom , are three days journey, over a barren , dry, and defert 
 Country, where there is no Water but Ciftern-water , except in fome very few 
 places , where it is very good. Four Leagues from Denghe' is a fair Inn and three 
 Leagues farther (lands another , about a Mile from a Village to the South . where 
 there grows excellent good Wine, white and red. From this lad Inn to Suva is not 
 above three hours travel with the Caravan. 
 
 Sava is a good City in a fertil Plain , where there are feveral Villages. The 
 greateft Trade of the Town is in little grey Lamb-skins , the curl whereof is very 
 neat , of which they make Furrs. Two or three Leagues beyond Sava the Country 
 is very well manur'd , and after you have forded a River half a League from the 
 City, after two hours travel, you come to one of the faireft Inns in all Perfia , which 
 was finifli'd when I went laft to IJpahan. From thence to Kom it is about feven or 
 eight hours journey, through a dry and fandy Road : but half a League on this fide 
 Kom the Land is very good and fruitful. 
 
 Kom is one of the great Cities of Perfia, in a fat Country abounding in Rice. 
 There grow alfo excellent Fruits , particularly large and excellent Granates. The 
 Walls are only of Earth , with little Towers clofe one to another ^ and the Houfes 
 being only of Earth , are never the handfomer within-fide. At the entry into the 
 Town you muft crofs a River , over a (lone Bridge , and then turning to the right 
 hand over a fair Key, you come to an Inn very well built and very convenient. 
 
 That which is moft remarkable in Kom is a large Mofquee, no lefs in veneration among 
 the Perfians , than the Mofquee of Ardeuil. There it is that you may fee the Sepul- 
 chers of Sha-Sefi and Sha-Abas the Second ^ as alfo the Tomb of Sidi-Fatima , the 
 Daughter of Iman-Hocen , who was the Son of Haly and Fatima-Zuhra the Daughter 
 of Mahomet. The great Gate of the Mofquee anl'wers to a Tiaz.z.a more long than 
 broad , where Hands an Inn and certain Shops , which without-fide are fomewhat 
 beautiful. One of the fides of the Piazza is clos'd up with a low Wall , over 
 which appears the Shore, and a River which you crofs at the end of the Piazza. Over 
 the great Portal of the Mofquee (lands an Infcription , in Letters of Gold , in the 
 Praife of Sha-Abas the Second. The firft place that you enter into is a Court of 
 more length than breadth , which may be term'd a Garden , in regard that on each 
 fide of the Alley in the middle , which is pav'd , there are feveral fquare Beds of 
 Flowers \ yellow Jafmin, and other Plants •, which are rail'd in by a Rail that runs all 
 the length of the Alley on each fide. It is not an eafie thing for the Chriftians to 
 
 get 
 
Chap.VI. of Monfieur Tavernier, 
 
 get in to this Court , efpecially fuch whofe Habits and Afpecl they do not like ! 
 But as I cloth'd and carry'd rny felf, I never was deny'd entrance into any place 
 either in Per/ia or India. 
 
 In this firft Court, on the left hand as you enter, are little Chambers, where 
 they that receive the Alms which by the Foundation of the Mofqnee are to be 
 diftributed every day, come and eat their proportion, and then go their ways. Thole 
 Chambers ferve as an Afylnm to thofe that cannot pay their Debts , as at the Mofqnee 
 of Arde'idl. Neither are thefe Priviledg'd places like ours , where they that retire 
 muft live at their own Charge : For in Perfia they are fed at the Expence of the 
 Mofquec •, and being in that manner freed from Care , their Friends more eafily bring 
 their Creditors to Compofition. 
 
 Out of the firft Court you pafs into a fecond , which is larger, and all pav'd \ arid 
 from that into a third, which isfquare,and rais'd like a Terrafs. You enter into it 
 through a large Gate , at the end of an open PafTage , where ftand the Lodgings of 
 the Monllah 7 J. 
 
 Out of that Court by an afcent of Brickwork of ten or twelve Steps, you enter 
 into a fair Court, which is alfo rais'd like a Terraft t, in the midft [whereof is a fait 
 Fountain. It is continually fill'd by little Pipes of Water which run into it, and is 
 empty'd by others that carry the Water into feveral parts of the whole Enclofure. 
 There are fome Buildings in this Court, but one of the fides of it is taken up with 
 the Front of the Mofquee , which is no difpleafing Structure. There are three large 
 Gates belong to it , very well expanded , according to the mode of the Country \ 
 with a Brick-wall before , about the height of a Man , with Holes in it for Light, 
 made like a Lozange. The Threfhold of the middle Gate is cover'd with a plate 
 of Silver:, and between thefe three Gates and that of the Dmmo , are feveral 
 Doftors , that hold Books in their hands , and read perpetually. 
 
 This Mofquce is Octagonal , and at every angle is a fmall wooden Door of Walnut- 
 tree, varnim'd with grey and yellow. The Tomb of SiduPatima is at the farther 
 part of the Mofquee , there being only room for one Man to pafs between the Wall 
 and the Tomb. It is encompafs'd with a large Silver Grate , fixteen Foot fquare • 
 the Bars whereof are round , and knob'd in thofe places where they crofs each other % 
 it is lighted by feveral Lamps of Gold and Silver : which altogether is very pleafing 
 to the Eye. The infide of the Mvfejuee, to the elevation of the Angles that fupport 
 the Dnomo, is compos'd of fquare Tiles varnifh'd over with divers Colours } and 
 the Cupola of the Duomo, as alfo the Vault of the 2ortice of the Mofquee , is a Morefo 
 piece of Painting in Or and Azure. Upon each fide of the Mofquee y and near the fide 
 where the Tomb of Sidi-Fatima ftands , appears a great Hall, where the Royal Alms 
 are diftributed to the Poor,which confift of Pilaw and other diet,very well dreft.From 
 this Tomb you turn to the left hand toward an Afcent , diftant five and twenty or 
 thirty Paces-, and at the top of this Afcent is a Door, over which there an is In- 
 fcription in Honour of Sha~Abas the Second. The Door being open'd, (hews you 
 the place where the Body of that King repofes : and through another Door with 
 a Grate in it , you may difcover , under a fmall Duomo , the Tomb of Sha-Sefi his 
 Father', which is cover'd with a Carpet of Cloth of Gold. They were conti- 
 nually at work upon the Tomb of Sha-Abai, which they faid, they would make very 
 famous. 
 
 I had not been two hours in Kom , but a multitude of People ran by the Inn Gate, 
 all in extraordinary haft. Asking what the matter was , they anfwer'd me , that 
 it had been a day long defign'd for the two Trophets to fight. Thereupon I went 
 to the Piaz.z.a , which was fo crowded , that I had much ado to get to fee. In the 
 firft place a fufneient number of Tumblers and Puppet-players , divided into two 
 Bands, kept the middle of the Piaz.z.a, and made a fufficient Ring for the Combat. 
 Each Band held a Bull by the Horns, one of which they call'd Mahomet, and 
 the other Holy t and whether it were by accident , or by the cuiming of tbe Bull- 
 Mafters, after an obftinate Combat, wherein the Beafts foam'd again with heat 
 and rage ; Mahomet at length quit the Field , and yielded Haly the Viftory. Then 
 all the People (houted for joy, and all the Viax.z.a was filf'd with the noife of 
 Flutes and Hautboys*, and every one coming as if it were to adore Haly , cry'd out, 
 'Behold the Works of god , that Haly has made ! At length they bring the Bull 
 Haly under a Gate, with his Head tu'rn'd toward the People ^ where after they 
 
The Persian Travels Book I. 
 
 have rub'd him to refre(h him , after a Combat fo courageoufly maintain'd , every 
 one fends him Prefenfs, which are all the Tumblers profit. The Kan or Governour 
 of Kom, who was preient with a hundred Horfes richly trap'd to behold the Sight, 
 fent the Bull a Prefent of 50 Tomans , or 750 Crowns. They who accompany 'd him, 
 and the chief Inhabitants of Kom, gave him 1'ome a Garment, others a Girdle. 
 Neither did the meaneft of the People fpare to fend or carry him Fruits , or other 
 things, according to their abilities. 
 
 The Kan was a Lord who was very civil , and there was no Stranger that did not 
 commend his behaviour , in regard he was fo obliging. 
 
 So loon as I came to the place , whether it was that he perceiv'd me with a Dutch- 
 man that I had brought along from Conftantinople , or whether any one had inform'd 
 him that there were Strangers near him , he fent for us, and after he had ask'd us 
 lbme Queftions concerning the occafion of our Travelling, he fent for a Seat and 
 caus'd us to fit down. Then he ask'd us whence we came, and what we did at 
 Jjpahan 5 to which when we had anfwer'd him , that we went to wait upon the King, 
 he approv'd our Intention , complaining that we had not given him advice of our 
 Arrival. In the Evening he lent us feveral Delicacies , among the reft , fix fair 
 Melons, and four Bottles of excellent Wine. 
 
 He appear'd to me fo brave and generous a Perfon , that I was very much trou- 
 bled afterwards for his being in dis-favour with the King, and his death, which 
 enfu'd. For this Kan finding the Walls of the City, which were only of Earth, 
 and the Bridge over the River to be out of repair, without writing to the King , of 
 his own head , laid a flight Impofition upon every Basket of Fruit that was brought 
 into the City. Now there are in all. the Cities of Per/ia , perfons who are hir'd to 
 take an account every Week what the Commodities may be worth , and to take 
 care that no more than fuch a Toll be laid upon any thing , which they tax among 
 themfelves , and when they have let the Rate , they caufe it to be cry'd at the 
 beginning of every Week. Sha-Sefi then reign'd , it being the year 1632. The 
 King being inform'd by thefe people of the Impoft which the Kan had fet upon 
 Fruit without his knowledge , was foenrag'd againft him, that he caus'd him to be 
 brought in Chains to IJpahan , where he us'd him with a ftrange feverity. For at 
 that time the Son of the Kan ftood at the King's Elbow, it being his Office to give 
 him his Pipe and his Tobacco , which is a very honourable Employment in Per/ia. 
 When the Kan came , the King caus'd him to be carry'd to the Gate of the Palace, 
 in the prefcnce of all the People , and then commanded his Son to pull the Hair 
 of his Father's Muftaches by the roots from his Skin. After that he commanded him 
 to cut<ofF his Nofe and his Ears*, after that to put out his Eyes , and laftly to cut off 
 his Head. When he had done the Execution according to the King's pleafure, 
 he commanded him to go and take poffeflion of his Father's Government , and 
 allowing him an experienc'd Old Man for his Lieutenant , he fent him to Kom with 
 9 thefe words If thou govenfft no better than this dead Dog has done , J will put thee 
 
 to a more cruel death than this. 
 
 Leaving Kom y for four hours you travel over a fair Champain Country, after 
 which you come to a fair Village with five or fix Inns in it. Beyond that is nothing 
 but Sand , till you come to a place call'd Abfchirim , or Frejh-water, where there 
 are three Inns at a diftance from any Villages. From Abfchirim to Cachan is fix 
 hours journey through a Corn Country , and ftor'd with great Villages. 
 
 Cachan is a large City, well peopl'd , and furniCh'd with all things neceflkry for 
 humane fubfiftanee : There is an old Wall about it which is fain down in many 
 places , fo that there is no need of feeking for Gates to get into the City. On that 
 fide which looks toward Ifyahan the Soil is good , and produces great ftore of Fruit 
 and Wine , which the Jews take care to make. It is reckon'd that there are in 
 Cachan a thoufand Families of Jews ; in Ifpahan about fix hundred but in Kom there 
 are not above nine or ten. Not but that there are many Jews in Per fa , but thofc 
 that live in Jjpahan , Cachan and Kom , boaft themfelves particularly of the Tribe of 
 Judah. 
 
 There are an abundance of Silk-Weavers in Cachan that are very good Work- 
 men, which make all the beft purfl'd Sattins mix'd with Gold and Silver, that come 
 out of Perfia. There they alfo coyn Money, and make Copper-velTels , which they 
 vend in great quantities at a good diftance off. The Market-houfes are very fair 
 
 ones, 
 
 30 
 
 ♦ 
 
. 1 > — — — - — 1 
 
 Chap. VI. of Monfieur Tavernier 
 
 .1 
 
 3 1 
 
 ones, and well vaulted , the Inns large and convenient : but there was one among the 
 reft which was very magnificent , near the King's Gardens , at the entry of the 
 City. As well the Inn as the Gardens were made by the order of Sha- Abas, the firft 
 of that Name, who was at a vaft charge. The Inn is above a hundred Paces 
 fquare, built of Brick two Stories high, containing twenty-fix vaulted Chambers 
 of a reafonable bignefs. It was a Structure too fair to be fo little regarded , as 
 now it is , being much fain to decay. In the middle of the Court was a Fountain 
 to receive Water, which is fpoil'd. The Perfans and Turks are of that bad humor, 
 rather to build new Houfes than to repair old Buildings. For which reafon they 
 have fince built at Cachan four or five Inns , as fair and commodious as that of Sha- 
 Abas. This Cuftom is grown to that height , that the Children are fo far from 
 taking care to repair the old Houfes where their Parents liv'd, that they will not 
 fo much as live in them after their deceafe, covetous of the honour of building 
 Houfes for themfelves. 
 
 Before we leave Cachan you mud take notice , that as you travel from that City 
 to Cjitihn you cannot avoid travelling thorough Plains for twelve hours together, 
 which are all pure Salt \ and there is nothing to be met with by the way, but one 
 Cittern-, nor can the Water which is in it be otherwife than very bad. 
 
 Leaving Cachan, you crofs a Plain of three Leagues, after which you enter in 
 among the Mountains , where you come to a very fair Inn of Brick. From thence 
 you defcend a pleafant Vale , where you travel a long time by the fide of a Ri^ 
 ver, over a very narrow way. At the end of the Valley you meet a great 
 Wall , which crofles it , and joyns the two Mountaias together. This Wall is 
 above a hundred Paces long , above thirty Foot thick , and fifty high. It was the 
 Work of the Great Sha-Abat , whofe defign it was to ftop the Waters that fall 
 from the Mountain , and to make a Receptacle for Water in that place , to ferve 
 his occafions. At the foot of the Wall there is a Sluce , which being let down 
 keeps in the Water but is pull'd up to let out the Water over all the neighbouring 
 Lands to the Plain of Cachan. From this Receptacle to Corou, , is about two hours 
 travel. 
 
 Corou is a very large Village , and well peopl'd , in a Soil environ'd with high 
 Mountains , and planted with great ftore of Walnut-trees. The Houfes confift 
 but of one low Story, being built of Flint-ftones \ but the Inn therein is very fair 
 and commodious. This Village confifts but of one Street , but it is almoft half a 
 League long , and very troublefom in the Winter , by reafon of a great River that 
 runs through it , and the great quantity of Stones that lye in the way. All about 
 this Village , as in feveral other places of Perfia , there are a great number of Sha* 
 cales ; which are a kind of Foxes , that in the night time make an ugly noife ^ for 
 if but one cry, all the reft will make anfwer, and fet up a howling. 
 
 From Corou you muft travel three Leagues between Mountains, after which you 
 have but twelve Leagues to Ijpahan. It is a continued Plain that extends it felf 
 beyond the City, and in many places the Soil is very good. At every three Leagues 
 end you meet with Inns. The firft is call'd Ackaha-Agakamala ; the fecond, which is 
 the half-way between Corou and Ijpahan , is call'd Michiacour. This place confifts 
 not only of one Inn , for there are many others , fo that it refembles a large Vil- 
 lage. From Michiacour you come to Aganura, another Inn , but ill built \ and from 
 Aganura, after you have travel'd three Leagues through a fat and fertU Country, 
 you come to Ijpahan. 
 
 CHAP, 
 
32 The Persian Travels Book L 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 'Of the (]{oad from Smyrna to Ifpahan , through Natolia. 
 
 SMyma is at this day for Trade , whether it be .by Sea or Land , one of the 
 mod celebrated Cities of all the Levant , and the greateft Market for all 
 forts of Commodities which are tranfported out of Afia into Europe , or 
 out of Europe into Afia. Hither all the Weftern Fleets are raoft regularly 
 bound , that came formerly no farther than Ligorn , and from whence , at times 
 moft regularly appointed , the faireft Caravans fet out. 
 
 This City lyes in 50 Degrees of Longitude*, and 38 Degrees, 45 Minutes of 
 Latitude •, at the bottom of a Gulf in the Archipelago , which is feven Leagues in 
 length , upon the right fide of the Jfihmus which begins to form the Peninfula of 
 Clawmene , right againft the Hand of Scbio. It lyes in that part of the Lefler Afia, 
 which the Cjreeks pofiefs'd , under the Name of Iconium - at a diftance almoft equals 
 between Ephefus and Sardis - y and was one of the feven Churches mention'd in the 
 Revelation of St. John. It is at this day a great City, built like an Amphitheater, 
 upon the defcent of a Hill that looks toward the Summer-Weft. But it is neither 
 fo great , nor lb beautiful as formerly it was , as may be eafily conjettur'd by the 
 Ruines of certain Edifices that remain upon that Hill , which from the middle to 
 the top , where the ancient City flood , are altogether uninhabited. There are 
 alfo to be feen the Walls of a fair Caftlc , and above that the Ruines of an Amphi- 
 theater, where they fay St. Tolycarp was expos'd to fight with Lions. This Am- 
 phitheater was not in the form of thole other, which are ufually round for it con- 
 tained but half a Circle , being left open to the Sea-fide. The Turks have almoft 
 quite deftroy'd it : making ufe of the Stones to build a Fort two Leagues from the 
 City, upon the Gulf, where the paflage is very narrow •, which the Ships are forc'd 
 to falute as they enter in, and to fpeak with when they fail out. Moreover, 
 that they might not be put to fend for Stones a-far off, they confulted whether 
 they might not make ufe of the Stones of the Chriftians Monuments , as alfo of thofe 
 of the Jews , which are near the Shore : But they took very few, whether out of 
 kindnefs to the Tombs, or whether they did not think them fo proper for ufe as the 
 Stones of the Amphitheater. This Caftle had not been long built, but upon an occafion 
 very remarkable. In the laft Wars of the Turks with the Venetians , the Ottoman 
 Fleet having been beaten in the Archipelago, the Grand Signor refolv'd to rerfit 
 another to Sea , and thereupon fent to all the parts of his Empire , where he knew 
 any Englijh or Holland VefTels ufually were wont to ride , to folicit them to ferve him 
 for his Pay. More particularly he aim'd at thofe VefTels which were in Smyrna, 
 where there were generally more than in any other Port. But the Captains , who 
 rejected his Propofition of fighting againft the Venetians , believing that he would 
 put fome force upon them , fuddenly hois'd Sail and got away •, it being at a time 
 when he could not keep them in , having no Caftle then built to command them. 
 The Grand Vifier nettl'd at the refufal of the Captains, as an affront done to his 
 Mafter, and to fee that the Ships could come in and go out , without any let or 
 moleftation, bethought himfelf (to the end he might keep them for the future under 
 iubjettion ) of building a Fort upon the Gulf, in fuch a part where the VefTels muft 
 neceflarily touch where now there lye great Cannons level with the Water, which 
 no VefTel cm efcape. Ever fince the Convoys will not come to Smyrna , as they were 
 wont to do , but lye out at Sea , out of the reach of the Fort. 
 
 Near to the Sea are yet to be feen fome Remains of a Church, two fides whereof 
 feem to have been diftingurfh'd into Chappels by little Walls, which are yet ftanding: 
 But the Natives doubt whether they be the Ruines of a Church dedicated to St. Pcly- 
 carp, or of an ancient Temple of Janus. 
 
 Smyrna has been oftentimes ruin'd either by the Wars , or by the Earthquakes 
 which often happen there. One time that I ftaid there , there happen'd one, which 
 did not laft long, but was very terrible. About fixty Paces from the Sea are to be 
 difcern'd the Ruines of great Walls two Foot under Water j and M the end of the 
 
 City 
 
Chap. VI I. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 33 
 
 City that looks toward the Winter- Weft , near to the Sea , appear the Ruines of 
 a Mole , and certain ancient Magazins. 
 
 The Englifh Merchants have dig'd among the Ruines of Smyrna , and have found 
 great ftore of fair Statues, which they tranlported into their own Country. There 
 are ftill found fome or other everyday, but when the Turks find any, they disfigure 
 them prefently. It may be conjecturM , that there was one of a prodigious bignefs, 
 by a great Toe broken off of fome one, and for which I paid fufficiently, out of the 
 defire I had to buy it. I fent it to Paris to a Perfon of Quality, who look'd upon 
 it as a great Curiofity. This Toe was of a hard white Stone , and well fhap'd, 
 and by the proportion whereof, the Figure could not be judg'd to be lefs than the 
 Celoffus of Rhodes. 
 
 Upon that fide of the City where the Mole was, Hands an old Caftle of no defence, 
 at the foot whereof the Sea makes a fmall Creek , where fometimes the Gallies of the 
 Grand Signor lye. 
 
 The City is well peopl'd , containing no lefs than fourfcore and ten thoufand Souls. 
 There are reckon'd no lefs than 60000 Turks , 1 5000 Greeks , 8000 Armenians , and 
 about fix or feven thoufand Jews. As for the European Chriftians that Trade there, 
 their number is very fmall. Every one of thefe Nations has the exercife of their 
 Religion free to thcmfelves. The Turks have in Smyrna fifteen Mofquees , the Jews 
 leven Synagogues , the Armenians but one Church , the Greeks two , and the Latins 
 three. There are alfo French Jefuits , and Italian Obfervantins , or a fort of Grey 
 Francifcans. The Turks , the (jreeks , the Armenians , and Jews live upon the Hill j 
 but all the lower part toward the Sea is inhabited only by the European Chriftians, 
 Englifh, French , Hollanders, and Italians. The Greeks have alfo in the fame Quar- 
 ter an old Church, and fome few fmall Houfes, where Sea-men make merry. 
 
 All thefe different People of Europe are generally known in Smyrna by the Name 
 of Franks. Every Nation has its Conful: and the French Conful has two Vice-Confute 
 under him \ the one at Scalanova , the other at Chio. 
 
 Scalanova , or the New Port , is two Leagues beyond Ephefus , and being a good 
 Haven, the Veffels were wont to unlade there-, but the Turks would not permit 
 it any longer. For that Place being the Dowry of the Grand Signer's Mother, the 
 Vtce-Conful agreed with the Governour of Scalanova , who permitted the Tranfpor- 
 tation of Goods to Smyrna , which is not above three little days journey with the 
 Caravan : A thing that fpoil'd the Trade of the City, and injur'd the Officers of the 
 Cuftom-Houfe. Whereupon they Petition'd the Grand Signor that no more Goods 
 might be unladed at Scalanova : lb that now no more Veffels go thither , unlefs it 
 be to take in frefh Victuals. 
 
 Chio is one of the greateft Hands in the Archipelago , of which in another place : 
 but the Vice-Cenful that lives there has no more bufinefs there than the other at 
 Scalanova ; for the Veffels that tduch there , neither unlade nor export any Goods 
 from thence. 
 
 The Quarter of the Franks is only a long Street , ose fide whereof lyes upon the 
 Sea ; and as well for the Profpeft, as for the convenience of Unlading Goods , the 
 Houfes upon the Sea are much dearer than thofe that lye upon the Hill. 
 
 The Soil about Smyrna is fertil , and abounds in all things n'eceffary for humane 
 fupport \ but particularly in good Oyl and good Wine. There are Salt-Pits alfo half 
 a League from the City, toward the North. The Sea affords great ftore of good 
 Fifh ; Fowl is very cheap and in a word, Smyrna is a place of great plenty. There 
 is a lovely Walk all along the Sea to the Salt-Pits , where generally, abundance of 
 People walk in the Summer-time to take the frefh Air: and there being more 
 liberty at Smyrna than in any other part of T wkie , there is no necefiity of taking 
 a Jamfary along , when a man goes abroad. If a man loves Fowling , it is but 
 taking a Boat, which lands him two or three Leagues from the City, toward the 
 Mountains , where there is fo much Game that he can never return empty. For the 
 value of three Sous you may buy a red Partridge at Smyrka , and all other Fowl is 
 proportionably cheap. 
 
 But if Smyrna have thefe great advantages , it has alfo its inconveniences : the 
 Heats are very exceffive in Summer , and indeed they would be infupportable, were 
 it not for the Breezes that come off the Sea : thefe Breezes rife about ten in thii 
 Morning, and continue till the Evening', but if they (ail, trs very bad for the 
 
 E Iiihl- 
 
The P e r si an ^Travels 
 
 Book I 
 
 Inhabitants. Befides , there hardly panes a Year but the City is infefted with the 
 Plague, which however is not fo violent as in Chriftendom. The Turks neither fear 
 it nor flie it, believing altogether in Predeflination. Yet I believe , if the Inha- 
 bitants of Smyrna would take care to drain away the {landing Puddles that gather 
 in the Winter about the City, they would not be lb frequently molefted with the 
 Plague as they are. It is raoft rife in May , June , and July, but the malignant 
 Fevers that fucceed it in September and October are more to be fear'd , more People 
 dying of them than of the Peftilence. In all my Travels I never was in Smyrna at 
 thele unfortunate Seaibns. There is no Bajha in that City j it being govern'd only 
 by a Cady , who is not fo fevere to the Chriiftians as in other places : For mould he 
 abuie his Office , Constantinople is at hand , where you may complain to the Mufti, 
 and have relief:, who for fome good Prefent may be eafily perfwaded to depoic the 
 Cady . as being glad of the opportunity to diiplace him , and to put another in 
 his room. 
 
 The Cuftoms of Smyrna yield a great Revenue to the Grand Signor , being paid 
 there very exactly. But were there a certain Rate put upon Commodities,theMerchants, 
 who would otherwife be lofers , would not ftudy fo many ways as they do to deceive 
 the Cuftomers : For thofe Cuftomers lay what Price they pleafe upon Commodities, 
 valuing that at a thoufand Crowns , which perhaps is not worth three hundred, 
 being abfolute Mafters of the Rate. In my laft Voyage to Smyrna, four Dutch 
 Women that went thither in our Ship from their own Country, carry'd a-fhoar under 
 their Coats whatever I had of rich Merchandize :• for the Turks have fuch a refpect 
 for that Sex , that they will not fo much as oner to fearch them. If a man be tak'n 
 in dealing Cuftoms , there is no other punifhment than to pay double. 
 
 The Trade of Smyrna is very great, and the principal Merchandizes which the 
 Franks tranfport from thence , are raw Silk , which the Armenians bring out of 
 Perfia; Chamlet-yarn , and Chamlet or Goats-hair, which come from a little City 
 call'd Angouri , fifteen or fixteen days journey from Smyrna ; Cotton twirled \ Skins 
 and Cordovans of feveral colours - , Calicuts, white and blew:, great quantities of 
 Wool for MattrefTes, Tap'flries, quilted Coverlets, Soap, Rhubarb, Galls, Va- 
 lanede, Scammony, and Opium-, which four laft Commodities are to be had in 
 the Countries near to Smyrna , but not in great quantities. The Caravans come 
 generally to this Town in the Months of Febrnary, June, and October ; and depart 
 again to the Countries from whence they came the fame Months. 
 
 Epbefa not being above a day and a halfs journey from Smyrna , on Horfe-back 
 I took an opportunity to go thither. There were twelve of us that joyn'd together, 
 Franks and Hollanders , who took three Janizaries along with us , and three Horfes 
 to carry our Provifion. 
 
 We travel'd this little Journey in the Summer , and letting out of Smyrna about 
 three of the Clock in the Afternoon , we rode through a Country part Plains, and 
 part Hills , till we came to a great Village, where we fup'd. 
 
 After we had {laid there three hours, we took Horfe and travel'd till Midnight, 
 to avoid the Heats : By the way we met with nine or ten Arches , very narrow j 
 which we could not conjecture to be any thing elfe than the Ruines of fome Aque- 
 duct. From thence to Ephefus the way is very pleafant, through little Thickets 
 watred with Rivulets. 
 
 A quarter of a League from Ephefus you meet with another Mofcjuee , which was 
 formerly a Chriftian Church , built out of the Ruines of the Temple of Ephefm. 
 This Mofquee {lands enclos'd with Walls, and you muft afcend up to it by two Afcents 
 of twelve Steps a-piece, which bring you to a large Paflage. From thence you enter into 
 a large Cloyfter , the Arches whereof are fuftain'd with Marble Pillars of feveral co- 
 lours, delicately wrought and the lower part of the Gallery, which runs along three 
 of the fides , that confifts of great Squares of Stone. The Mofquee takes up the 
 fourth fide upon the left hand , the Gate being in the middle. The Mofquee it 
 felf is a wide Arch , fupported by five Columns, all of raoft exquifite Work. There 
 are four of Marble, and every one of a different Colour-, but the fifth is a moil 
 rare piece , being of Porphyry, and the bignefs of it makes it fo much the more to 
 be aclmir'd. 
 
 Ephefus does not look like a City, being fo abfolutely ruin'd , that there is not 
 a Houfe Handing. It was built upon the defcent of a Hill , in a fituation not much 
 
 unlike 
 
Chap.VIL of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 unlike that of Smyrna, at the foot whereof runs a Rivulet, after it has made a 
 thoufand Maanders in the Meadows. The City feems to have been very large, for 
 you may difcern upon the top of the Gates the compafs of the Walls, with feveral 
 fquare Towers , fome of which are ftill (landing : and there is one very remarkable, 
 having two Chambers in it, one of which is a very fair one, the Walls and Pave- 
 ment whereof are Marble. 
 
 The famous Temple of Diana Hood at the bottom of the Hill , near one of the 
 Gates of the City. There remains nothing of it at prefentbut the great Portal, which 
 is entire. The Vaults of the Arches under ground ftand to this day, and are very large, 
 but all full of naftinefs. We went in with Lanthorns', and though you muft creep to 
 get in, by reafon that the Wind has almoft ftopt up the Hole, by gathering the 
 Dud about it , yet when you are in , you may go upright for the Arches are 
 high and fair , and little the worfe. Near the Gate lye four or five Columns upon 
 the Ground , and near to that a Fountain , ten Foot in Diameter , and two deep. 
 The People of the Country report, that it was the Fountain wherein St. John 
 Baptiz'd the Christians. For my part, as I have feen in the Indies feveral Pagods and 
 Edifices much more beautiful than ever the Temple of Ephefus could be •, I believe 
 it rather to have been a Bafin wherein the People put their Offerings, of which 
 there are feveral fuch that belong to the Indian Pagods. The Greeks and Arme< 
 menians , but above all the Franks , when they go to Ephefm always endeavour to 
 jreak off fome piece of that Bafin , to carry it away with 'em as a Relick : but the 
 Stone is fo hard , that they can break off but very little at a time. 
 
 Not far from the Temple appears another Gate of the City, over which there 
 lyes a great Stone feven or eight Foot fquare, with an embofs'd Figure of Q^Curtim 
 that Famous Roman , who threw himfelf , Horfe and Arms into the gaping Earth, 
 for the good of his Country. Many Merchants have offer'd Money for liberty to 
 carry it away, but cannot obtain leave. About five hundred Paces from Ephefus 
 is the Grotto which they call the Seven Sleepers, at the bottom of the fame Hill where 
 the City was built. 
 
 From Ephefus we went to Scalanova , which is not above two Leagues off. By 
 that time you come half the way, the little River that runs by Ephefus falls into the 
 Sea ^ in the mouth whereof there are always a great number of Greeks Barks fifhing 
 for Sturgeon. Of the Spawn of this Fifh they make Caveare , and drive a great 
 Trade in it in thofe Parts: then they take the moft delicate and fmalleft Entrails of 
 that Fifh, which they fill with the fame Spawn , of which they make a kind of a flat 
 Pudding , as long as a Bisket, which they call Botargo. This they dry in the Smoak, 
 and cut it afterwards in flices to eat. Upon this and the Cuttle-fifh the Greeks 
 generally feed during their Lent , which is very auftere. 
 
 Scalanova is a Port of which I have already fpoken , and thither we came by 
 feven a Clock in the Evening where the Governour of the Place, more civil than 
 ufually the Turks are accuftom'd to be , made us very welcom. 
 
 In the Evening one of our Janizaries had quarrel'd with one of our Servants, 
 who thereupon had beaten him-, and therefore he complain'd to the Fellow's Ma- 
 iler, who not giving him that fatisfaction which he defir'd, thereupon the Turk^ 
 ftudy'd to be reveng'd upon the whole Company. For this reafon, upon fome pre- 
 tence or other , he went before , the better to bring about his defign. We {laid 
 till the Morning , and then departed early from Scalanova , and by Noon we came 
 with good Stomachs to the M&fquee near Ephefus, where We had been the day before : 
 And fome of the Company thought it a very convenient place to dine in , i'the 
 fhade:, thereupon we fent for our Provifions, with a Boracho of Wine, and ano- 
 ther of Water , and fell to eating in the Paffage into the Mofquee , not dreaming 
 any harm. We had not been long at it , when we perceiv'd two or three Turks 
 about two hundred Paces off, who came from a Village very near to the Mofquee. 
 I knowing the cuftom of the Country better than they, told them , that they were 
 certainly coming to pick a quarrel with us , and therefore caus'd them to hide the 
 Bottle of Wine immediately \ for it was then the Turks Ramezan , or Lent ; during 
 which time Wine is ftri&ly forbidden. Thefe two ill-contriv'd and ill-clad Fellows 
 were the Janizaries of the place , whom the Cadi had fent , upon the information 
 of om Janizary (who knowing we had eaten in the fame place before, as indeed 
 we had done , made no queftion but we would do fo again ) thinking to furprize us 
 
 E 2 &i 
 
3 6 
 
 The Persian Travels Book L 
 
 as we were drinking Wine, in a place which they eftcem Sacred , and by conse- 
 quence was among them accounted an aft of Sacriledgc. Chriftian Dogs, cry'd they, 
 when they came near us , to eat and drinks in a Moiquee , and profane a holy place 
 as you do, at a time that renders the offence more criminal '. No , cry'd I , aniwering 
 for the reft , we drinkjno Wine, rve drinlijnothing but Water, and ycu may tafl it, laid 
 I to him that was the moft bufie •, with that I caus'd a Glafs to be pour'd out and 
 giv'n him-, and I gave one of the Turks a private wink, who understanding it was 
 a promife of gratuity , turnM about to his Comrades , and cry'd , y Tis very true, 
 they drinkjno Wine. However in regard they had Orders to bring us before the 
 Cady , there was no contending. Thereupon I and three others undertook to 
 and anfwer for all the reft. The Cady revil'd us as bad as the Janizary at firft } 
 but he was not only furpriz'd , but very much troubPd , when they all unanimoufly 
 afnrm'd that we drank no Wine , believing thty were confederates with us. But 
 I had cunningly flipt eight Ducats into the Hand of the Turl^to whom I had made 
 a fign with my Eye , who over-joy'd at fo plentiful a gratuity, had over-perfwaded 
 his Comrades not to lay any thing againft us. The Cady though he did not like their 
 Teftimony, yet call'd for Coffee for us, according to the cuftom of the Country, and 
 lent us to his Lieutenant-, who having been often greas'd in the Fill by the Smyrna- 
 Merchants, receiv'd us very kindly, and told us that the Cady was but newly come 
 to his Place, and was needy ^ howeve-r a fmall matter would content him. There- 
 upon we gave the Lieutenant twenty-five Ducats , who moft certainly went fnips 
 with the Cady, and fo return'd us to our Company, who were much afraid we would 
 not have come off fo. 
 
 We were refolv'd to return to Smyrna not the fame way we came , and fo we 
 took another Road , which was a very plealant way, partly over firm Sands , and 
 partly thorough Meadows , where we met with feveral narrow Dikes very well 
 Pav'd. Then we crofs a rugged high Mountain , and lay in a 2Hahumetan 
 Barn. 
 
 The nest day we return'd to Smyrna, having finifh'd our fmall Journey to Ephefia 
 in five days. When we told the Confuls how the Janizary had betray'd us , they 
 made their Complaint to the Janizary Aga and the Cady, who, for his punifhment 
 put him out of the Confides fervice , which is an advantageous Employment. For 
 befides that the Confid's Janizaries are exempt from the Duties of War, they are 
 well plac'd for there is never a Merchant that is not beneficial to them fome way 
 or other-, efpecially at good times, as Neve-y ears-day and other Feftivals. Nor 
 could the Janizary have been more feverely punifh'd j for the Turks love Money 
 above all things in the World. 
 
 But to return to our matter. The Rendezvouz of all the Caravans is generally 
 two Leagues from the City, near a Town call'd Vongarbachi. The day of their 
 letting out being fix'd , every one provides himfelf for his Journey, and meets the 
 Evening before at the place appointed , to be ready at the hour. 
 
 From Smyrna toTocat, is thirty- five days journey with the Caravan, and the laft 
 time I went we made it thirty-eight from Vongarbachi. 
 
 The firft day we travel'd eight hours through a Country whole profpect was not 
 unpleafing , leaving fome Villages more than a League from the Road ; and we 
 lodg'd in a Park, near the River TaBolvw, which is a liuall River, the Sand whereof 
 fJhines, and is of feveral colours. Which caus'd Antiquity to call Patlolm Golden- 
 Sanded. It falls from the Mountain Tmolus , and after it has water'd the Territory 
 of Sardis , mixes with the River Hermm , that throws it felf into the Archipelago 
 through the Gulf of Smyrna. The Mouth of it is not above two or three Leagues 
 from the City, toward the North. 
 
 The next day in fix hours we came to Durgout , a little City in a Plain. ' All 
 Chriftians that live not in the Territories of the Grand Signor , and pafs that way, 
 once a Year pay Carrage, or a Tribute of four or five Crowns : but the Franks are 
 exempt, both at Durgout and over all Turkic There refides a Bafia in this City} 
 and we were conftrain'd to flop there a whole day , becaufe the Caravan that 
 comes from Perfia arriv'd at that time , fo that they were fore'd to change their 
 Camels. 
 
 The third day, after five hours travel in extremity of Heat , we came to lodge 
 near a paltry Village. 
 
 The 
 
Chap. VI I. of Monfieur Tavern ier 
 
 The fourth day we travel'd fix hours , and ftop'd near to a fmall River. In the 
 Morning we pajfs'd over the Ruines of the ancient Sardis, the Capital City of Lydia, 
 and Seat of King Creffitt. There were ftill to be feen the Ruines of a large Palace 
 and two fair Churches, with a great number of Pillars and Corniches of Marble. 
 This City having held out fix Years againft the Army of T :-mur-leng , who befieg'cl 
 it i fo ibon as he had taken it , in revenge he utterly deftroy'd it. There is a 
 Village near Sardts of the fame Name , where flood the City, which was one of the 
 Seven Churches mention'd in the Revelation. The fifth day we rode for feven hours 
 through a Country but ill manur'd , and took up our Stage in a Plain upon the fide 
 of a River. 
 
 The fixth day we pafs'd by the Walls of the ancient Philadelphia, call'd at prefent 
 Allachars, which was alio one of the Seven Churches of Afia. There isfomething 
 of Beauty ftill remaining in thofe Walls, and the City is very large , but ill peopl'd. 
 It is fituated upon four little Hills , at the foot of a high Mountain over-looking 
 a fair Plain to the North, that produces excellent Fruit. To witnefs its Antiquity, 
 there is yet the Ruines of an Amphitheater , with certain Sepulchers , from whence 
 the Inhabitants report that the European Chriftians took out the Bodies- that were 
 buried there, and tranfported them into Europe, believing them to be the Bodies 
 of Saints. It is now all deftroy'd, but re-built of Earth by the Turks after their mode. 
 It was formerly one of the principal Cities of Myfia, and in regard it was alway very 
 iubjcft to Earthquakes, the moft part of her Inhabitants liv'd in the Country. The 
 laft time I travel'd that way, in the year 1664, the feventeenth of June, the Turks 
 were feafting and rejoycing upon the News , as they laid , which they had receiv'd, 
 of the defeat of the Chriftians in Candy. But the News was falfe, and only con- 
 triv'd to encourage the People •, for the Grand Signor was then making Levies in 
 thofe Parts. We lodg'd that day , after feven hours travel , upon the Bank of a 
 iinall River , a League and a half from Philadelphia. 
 
 The feventh day we travel'd eleven hours over a Mountain , where thofe Trees 
 plentifully grow that bear Galls , and Valanede , which is the fhell or rind of an 
 Acorn , that Curriers make ufe of to drefs their Leather. We lodg'd in a 
 Meadow on the top of a Mountain which is call'd Ijagli-bogafe , or, The Mountain 
 of Robbers. 
 
 The eighth day we continu'd our Journey over the fame Mountain , which is 
 a very barren Country where there is no Provifion to be had. We travel'd but fix 
 hours , and lodg'd near a River in a Plain call'd Sarroucabaqui. 
 
 The ninth day the Caravan travel'd thorough dry Lands , where there is not one 
 Village to be feen , and lodg'd near a Bridge built over a River call'd Coplifon, in the 
 Plain of Jnahi. 
 
 The tenth day , after we had travel'd eight hours over an uneven and barren 
 Country, we ftopt in a Valley near a River call'd Bana-fon, the Water whereof is 
 not good. In the Night there arofe a Tempeft that put us all in a dilorder, and 
 the Rain that fell was as cold as if it had been in the depth of Winter. We were 
 wet to the Skins , and were forc'd to throw Coverlets over the Bales to keep the 
 Goods from being fpoyl'd. 
 
 The eleventh day we travel'd through a pleafant Country , between Vales adorn'd 
 with a moft delightful Verdure } and we were in view as we pafs'd along of certain 
 hot Baths, though very little regarded. We lodg'd upon the Banks of a fmall River, 
 by the fide whereof we had travel'd for fome hours. 
 
 The twelfth day we continu'd our Road for fix hours between the fameVallies, 
 and lodg'd by a River. 
 
 The thirteenth day we travel'd eight hours , and ftop'd near to a Village in a 
 Country call'd Do'iiagajfe. 
 
 The fourteenth, after a Journey of feven hours we pafb'd by the Walls of Aphiom- 
 Carajfar, that is, The Black^City of Aphiom or: Opium; becaufe it has a Profpecl 
 over a fair and large Country well cultivated, where they fow great ftore of Pop- 
 pies, whence they draw their Opium or Aphiom , as the Turks call it. 
 
 Aphiom-CaraJJar is a great City, dirty and ill built, the ancient Name whereof 
 I could never learn , for the greeks and Armenians are very ignorant. But ac- 
 cording to all probability and the fituation of the place, it ought to be the ancient 
 ■Hierapolis fituated upon the Maander , a famous River of the Leffer Afia , that 
 
 winds 
 
58 The Persian Travels Book I 
 
 winds and turns the mod of any River in the World. And indeed we are the 
 more to feek , in regard the Turks change the ancient Names according to their own 
 cuftom and pleafure , and give no other Names to Rivers than that of the principal 
 City through which they pafs} or elfe deriving their Names from the Colour of 
 their Sands. There is to be feen in that City an ancient Caftle of Free-ftone upon 
 the Point of a high Rock , fcparated from the Mountains that are next it toward 
 the South, which make a Semicircle. All the Armenian Chrifthns, Subjects to the 
 King of Per fa , palling thorough Aphiom-Caraffar muft there pay Carage, from which 
 they are not exempted , though they have paid it before at Eraerom or ellewhere. 
 The Caravan does not flop at Apbiom-Carafar, as well for that there are no Inns but 
 what are ruin'd , as for that about a League farther there is a place where you have 
 excellent Fi(h , and very cheap , and they of the City bring Barley, Straw, and 
 other things which the Caravan wants. The Caravan therefore that day lodges upon 
 the Banks of Mxander, which is to be crofs'd over a Bridge not far diftant from a 
 fmall Village. In this River are great ftore of Crawfifh and Carps } and the Fiftier- 
 men will be fure to attend upon the Caravan. I have feen fome Carps there above 
 three Foot long. 
 
 The fifteenth our Caravan began to part it felf, fome for Tocat, fome for the Road 
 to Aleppo ; the one part taking the right-hand Road toward the Winter-Eaft , for 
 Syria; the other the left- hand Road Nor th-Eaft , for Armenia. 
 
 After we were parted , we travel'd two or three hours in fight of one another. 
 They that go to Aleppo , fall into Tarfus , where St. Paul was born , and from Tarfus 
 to Alexandretta. But we continud our Road to Tocat , and after we had crofs'd 
 a great Plain, having travel'd fix hours, we lodg'd in a Merfhy plate near a fmall 
 Village. There is one thing remarkable in this Road as in many others , which 
 manifefts the Charity of the Turk*. For in molt of the high Roads , that are far 
 from Rivers, they have fet up Citterns, whither when the Rains fail, the neigh- 
 bouring Villages bring Water for the Travellers , who would elfe be very much 
 diftrefs'd. 
 
 The fixteenth we travel'd eight hours through a very even Country, but ill ma- 
 nur'd^ where we faw a little City call'd Boulavandi. There are fome Mofqnees y 
 which the Turks have built out of theRuines of the ancient Cjreel^ Churches, from 
 which they have taken Pillars of Marble, and other pieces of Architecture , to adorn 
 their Sepulchers without aay order at all , which you meet with very often upon the 
 high Roads ^ the number is the greater , becaufe they never lay two Bodies in one 
 Grave. There is alfo in this City an Inn , cover'd with Lead , which is all the 
 Beauty of it ; nor do Travellers make any ufe of it but only in foul weather. We 
 lodg'd a League and a half from the City, and ftaid there all the next day. 
 
 The feventeenth we travel'd eleven hours through a mix'd and uneven Country, 
 and came to lodge in a Village where there are not above three or four Houfes, 
 though there be excellent Pafturage about it. There is no Water , but what is 
 drawn out of three deep Wells •, for which reafon the place is call'd Enche-derin-gw. 
 
 The eighteenth we travel'd not above five hours through defert Countries , and 
 took up our Stage in a kind of a Bog , near a pitiful Village. 
 
 The nineteenth, after we had travel'd eight hours through fpacious defert Plains, 
 we pafs'd through a large Village , the Inhabitants whereof were gone with their 
 Cattel into the Mountains, for the cool Air, during the Summer time , according 
 to cuftom. There is an indifferent handfom Mofquee of Free-ftone } and indeed the 
 Village, the Name whereof the People told me was Tfiaciclou , has been much bigger 
 than now it is , as may appear by the Ruines. In two hours after we came to lodge 
 beyond it in a Meadow, near a Rivulet. 
 
 The twentieth we crofs'd over defert Plains , but which feem'd to have been for- 
 merly well manur'd •, and after ten hours travel , we ftop'd in a Bottom near a bad 
 Water. 
 
 The twenty-firft, for ten hours the Country was all barren and defert , and we 
 came to lodge at the end of a long Plain , near two Wells, the Water whereof was 
 good for nothing. 
 
 The twenty-fecond we travel'd through the fore-mention'd Plain, and met with 
 little Valleys where there was very good Pafturage. The Caravan ftop'd near to a 
 pitiful Village, and a nafty Well. 
 
 The 
 
Chap. VII. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 The twenty-third we tnivel'd not above five hours becaufe it was the time of the 
 Turks Beiram , or Eafter , whkh our Caravan , confuting of T nrks , would needs 
 fofemnize. That day we travePd through an indifferent good Country, and well 
 tiil'd, where we difcover'd feveral fair Villages:, and we lodg'd upon a rifing Ground, 
 from whence we had a very fair and far diftant Proipect. 
 
 The twenty-fourth we travel'd fix hours , and came to lodge in a Meadow where 
 the Water was bad. Near to that place, we difcover'd a Plain that extends it felf 
 eight or ten Leagues in length , though it be not above one or two in bredth : it 
 feem'd like a Lake , and indeed it is only a fait Water congeal'd , and thickn'd into 
 Salt, which you can hardly diflfolve but in fair Water. This Lake furnifhes almoft 
 all Natalia with Salt where you may buy a Wagon-load drawn by two Bufalo's 
 for 45 Sous. It is call'd Dmflag , or The Place for Salt ; and the Bajha of Comhahar, 
 about two days journey from it, gets by it 24000 Crowns a Year. Sultan Amur at b 
 caus'd a Dike to be cut quite thorough it when his Army march'd to the Siege of 
 Bagdat, which he took from the Per fan. 
 
 The twenty-fifth we travel'd nine or ten hours, and met not with one Village, 
 the Country being all defert. We lodg'd upon a rifing Ground , near a good Foun- 
 tain call'd Cara-dache-cefme , or, The Fountain of the BUck^Stone. 
 
 The twenty-fixth we pafs'd through a great Village call'd Tfhekenagar , in ■ a 
 pleafant fituation , but very ill built j and after we had travel'd eight hours , we 
 came to lodge in a delightful Meadow , near another Village call'd Romceuche. 
 
 The twenty-feventh we travel'd nine hours through Countries full of Licorice, and 
 having pafs'd a great Town call'd Beferguenlou , we lodg'd in a Meadow. 
 
 The twenty-eighth we crofs'd a great River, call'd Jechil-irma , over a long well 
 built ftone Bridge. At the end of the Bridge call'd Kejfre'-kupri ftands a great 
 Village , wherein the greatefl: part of the Houfes are built under Ground , like 
 Foxes Holes. We put on farther , and after feven hours travel , we lodg'd below 
 another great Village call'd Mouchicur , where there are abundance of Greek*, 
 which they conftrain ever and anon to turn Turks. The Country being inhabited by 
 Chriftians, and fit for the Plantation of Vines , there is Wine good ftore, and very 
 good, but it has the l'cent of the Wines of Anjou. The Village is well fituated but 
 ill built, raoft of the Houfes being under Ground, in fo much that one of the Com- 
 pany riding carelefly, had like to have fain into a Houle. 
 
 The twenty-ninth we rode for feven hours through a pleafant Country^, where 
 we faw feveral Villages \ near to one of which the Caravan lodg'd in a Meadow, dole 
 by a Fountain. 
 
 The thirtieth we rode through a flat Country, well manur'd , and ftop'd near a 
 River wherein there was but very little Water: it is call'd Cara~fou, or, The Blacky 
 River. For two or three days together , at every two Leagues diftance weoblerv'd 
 little Hillocks of Earth artificially rear'd , which they told us were rais'd during the 
 the Wars of the Greeks to build Forts upon, for Watch-Towers. 
 
 The thirty-firft we travel'd a very uneven Country, but abounding in Wheat, and 
 after we had travel'd nine hours , we lodg'd in a Meadow near a River , which we 
 crofs'd next Morning before day, over a ftone Bridge. 
 
 The thirty-fecond , after we had travel'd eight hours , we lodg'd by a River, 
 where we faw a great number of Turcomans : They are a People that live in Tents 
 like the Arabians , and they were then leaving that Country to go to another, having 
 their luggage in Wagons drawn by Bufalo's. 
 
 The thirty-fecond we met again with Mountains and Woods, which we had not 
 feen in 1 8 days before , which had conftrain'd us to carry Wood upon our Camels 
 to drefs our Proyifion : We were very fparing of it , and fometimes made ufe of 
 dry'd Cows dung or Camels dung , when we came near the Waters where they were 
 wont to drink. We travel'd eight hours that day, and lodg'd in a Meadow where 
 the Grafs was very high ; yet where there had been Houfes formerly ftanding. 
 
 The thirty-fourth we forded a deep and rapid River call'd Jangou, from the Name 
 of the Town next to it. A little above the place where we forded it, we faw a 
 ruin'd Bridge , which had been built over it. 
 
 The thirty-fifth we travel'd eight hours through a fair Valley well manur'd, and 
 upon the left hand we left a Caftle rais'd upon a Rock. The C^\tvm lay that night 
 upon a rifing Ground near a Village, 
 
 The 
 
The Persian Travels 
 
 Book I. 
 
 The thirty-fixth we travel'd through the fame Valley for eight or nine hours 
 longer ; in this Valley were feveral pleafant Villages , but we lay by a fmall Ri- 
 ver. 
 
 The thirty-feventh we travel'd fix hours among the Mountains , where there are 
 fome very narrow Paflkges , but ftore of Water , and we lay in a Vale abounding 
 in Pafturage. 
 
 The thirty -eighth we rode for four or five hours over a rugged Mountain in 
 craggy way , at the foot whereof we met with a Village call'd Taqnibac ; from 
 whence it is but five Leagues to Tocat. And thefe are all the Roads trom Paris to 
 Ijpaban , through the Northern Territories of Turkic 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 How the Author was robb'd near Tocat , and of a certain fort of 
 rare and fine Wool iphlch he firft brought into France. 
 
 JP* H Aquibac is the place where the Per fan Caravan ufes to meet , when it 
 departs from Tocat to Smyrna and this is the only place in all the Road 
 where a Traveller ought to ftand upon his guard , by reafon of Thieves 
 JB^ who haunt thefe Quarters , and are great Mafters in their Trade. Once 
 as I came out of Per/la they would needs give me a taft of their Art, notwithftanding 
 all the care I took. There were three or four of us that would needs ride before 
 with our Servants to Taqnibac, in expectation of the Caravan which was to come 
 the next day 7 where we fet up our Tents upon the Bank of a fmall River. I had 
 then a good many Bales of Wool , with which I made as it were a double Wall 
 about my Tent : lb that there was but one paffage between the Bales, for one Man. 
 In four of thefe Bales I had a quantity of Musk in lead'n Boxes, to the value of ten 
 or twelve thoufand Crowns : which Bales I put within-fide , fo that they touch'd 
 the Tent and my Beds-head. Next Night, it being very dark, the Thieves came, 
 and finding the outward Bales fmell fo llrong of Musk , they thought one of thofe 
 Bales would be a confiderable Booty. The Bales were all ty'd together with a 
 Cord that kept them faft , nor was it eafie to undo them , without a noife. They 
 wak'd me with their buftle at firft , and I fent out my Servants to fee if they could 
 catch them but they will lye fo clofe upon their Bellies, thatinfuch a dark Night 
 as that was tis irapoffible to difcover them. Thereupon my Servants went to fleep 
 again , and the Thieves to their work *, and having with a great deal of ingenuity 
 cut the Cord , they carried away the two Bales. In the Morning four or five of us 
 with a Camel-driver for our Guide purfu'd them, and in half an hour we met with 
 the marks of the Robbery, for the Rogues being mad that they found nothing but 
 Wool , which they thought to be of no great value , fcatter'd it in the High-way 
 for two or three Leagues together : fo that I caus'd it to be pickt up again , and 
 loft not above fifteen or twenty Pound. I fpeak this to caution the Merchants that 
 carry Bales of Silk or other rich Commodities , to beware of thefe Thieves *, for 
 they will come creeping upon their Bellies , and then cutting the Bales with great 
 Razors, will prefently empty a Bale of one half of the Goods. 
 
 'Tis true , the Wool was of no great value for their ufe , but it was a fort of rare 
 and very fine Wool, which I carry'd out of Perfia to Paris , where fuch fine Wool 
 was never feen. As to the place where it is to be had , I met with one of the Gaures f 
 or Per/tans that adore the Fire, who when I was at Ijpaban in the year 1647 ftew'd 
 me a Sample of it , and inform'd me that the greateft part of this Wool comes from 
 the Province of Kerman, which is the ancient Caramania j and that the beft Wool 
 is to be met with in the Mountains that are next to the City that bears the name 
 of the Province : That the Sheep in thofe Parts have this particular property, that 
 when they have fed upon new Grafs from January till May, the Fleece falls off, of 
 it felf, and leaves the Sheep naked, and their Skins fmooth , like a Pig's that is 
 fcalded off; fo that there is no need Of Shearing them , as with us : after they have 
 
 gathered 
 
Chap. V1IL of Monfieur Tavernier. 41 
 
 gathered it, they beat it, and the courfe Wool breaking, the fine only remains. 
 That if you transport it , before you make it into Bales, you muft throw Salt-water 
 upon it, which keeps the Worms out of it, and preierves it from rotting. Now 
 you mud take notice that they never dye this Wool , it being naturally of a clear 
 Brown , or a dark Afh-colour •, and that there is very little of it White, which is 
 alio much dearer than the other , as well for that it is fcarce , as becaule that the 
 Mufti's , the MonllaWs and other perfons belonging to the Law , never wear any 
 Girdles or Vails ( wherewith they cover their Heads when they prav) but White: 
 for at other times they wear them about their Necks , as the Women do their 
 Scarfs. 
 
 Into this Province of Kcrmm almoft all the Gaures are retir'd , and they a\e 
 they that only Trade in this Wool , and have the whole Manufacture of it. They 
 make thole Girdles of it which they ufe in Perfia; andfome Pieces of Serge , which 
 are almoft as fine and tranfparent , as if they were of Silk. I brought over two 
 Pieces into France , and prefented one to the late Queen Mother , the other to 
 the Princefs of Orleance. 
 
 I could not drive any Trade in this Wool till the year 1 654 , returning out of 
 the Indies by Sea. from Surat to Ortrfts. To which purpofe, I departed from Ormm, 
 and took Guides along with me to fhew me the way to Herman, whither I could 
 not get on Horfeback in Iefs than twenty-feven days. I dare fay that Alexander" 
 the Great did not march this way into the Indies : for in the whole extent of the 
 the Country there is no Water to be met with but in fome certain places , and in 
 the hollow of fome Rocks, where there is not enough neither to water eight or 
 ten Horfes. Befides, in fome places a man is conftrain'd, by reafon of the Mountains, 
 to fetch a great compafs about - , for a Foot-man that makes his way through thofe 
 Rocks , (hall go farther in half an hour than a Horfe-man can do in four. 
 
 Kerman is a large City, which has been often ruin'd by being feveral times taken 
 and re-taken nor is there any thing handfom in it, but only one Houle and a 
 Garden , upon which the laft Kans have beftow'd a vaft expence to make the place 
 delightful. They make there a fort of Earthen-ware which comes very near to 
 Porcekn , and looks as neat and as fine. As foon as I arriv'd , I went to vifit the 
 Kan, who made me very welcom, and gave order to the Gaures to furnifh me with 
 Bread and Wine, Pullets and Pigeons, which in thofe parts are fat, and as large 
 as little Capons. The Gaures are they that make the Wine and to make it/more 
 fweet and pleafant , they take away the Stalks , and never prefs any thing but the 
 meer Grape. 
 
 The Kan was but newly entred into the pofTeffion of his Government, and being 
 defirous, according to the cuftom of the new Governours, to have a noble Sword 
 and Dagger , with a rich Furniture for his Horfe , which requir'd fome Jewels , I 
 prefented him with a Diamond worth eight hundred Crowns, which he caus'd to 
 be fet in the end of the handle of his Dagger. He alfo defir'd to have of me as 
 many more Jewels as came to feven or eight hundred Livres : and by the Prefenf 
 and the Bargain I facilitated my purchafe of the Wool which I intended to buy. 
 Two days after he invited me to his Entry-Feaft , which he made for the chief of 
 the City - 0 and knowing I wanted a Mule , he fent me one well worth a hundred 
 Crowns. This is the Nobleft Carriage in all Perfta , which the great Perlbnages 
 choofe before Horfes , especially when they are in years. But it was not the Kan 
 alone who was civil to me. A young Lord , who liv'd in Kerman , and was at the 
 Feaft, whofe Father had been formerly Kan himfelf, took great delight to diicourfe 
 with me concerning my Travels-, and offered me his fervice in a very obliging 
 manner. Now the Per/tans are very curious , and great admirers of the Rarities of 
 Forein Countries: which inclination led the young Lord to enquire of me whether 
 I had any Fire- Arms, telling me he would content me for them to my fatisfaclion. 
 The next Morning I prefented him with a Carbine , and a pair of Piftols that pleas'd 
 iiim exceedingly •, and a little Watch, for which I would take no Money, whereat he 
 feem'd to be not a little troubl'd. However he fent me a ftately Horfe worth about 
 two hundred Crowns, or twelve T omans. This young Lord was of a clear humour, 
 civil, accomplifh'd, generous, and did every thing with a good grace. So that when he 
 fent me the Horfe, he fent to entreat me withal , if I did not like that Horfe, to come 
 and choofe which I lik'd beft in his Stable. 
 
 F By 
 
42 
 
 The Persian Travels 
 
 Book I 
 
 By the favour of this Lord and the Kan, I made good the Purchafe that I intended, 
 for the People began to murmur ( knowing what a Parcel I had got together ) 
 and told the Kan that I would carry away all the Cloth out of the Country, fo that 
 they fhould have none to let the Poor on work. Thereupon the Kan fent for me, 
 and for thofe reafons told me I muft buy no more. To fend off the blow, I made 
 anfwer, That it was the King of Per/la's defire to try if we could make as fine Cloth 
 of his Wool in France, as they did in England and Holla?ui; and that if it lucceeded, 
 I mould bring French Workmen into Perfia , and lb by fetling the Trade in his own 
 Country, free him from the Charge of forein Manufactures. This filenc'd the Kan, 
 fo that I ft ill bargain'd for more. But when I was return'd to Ijpahan, the People of 
 the Country would not keep touch with me. However , I wrote fo home to the 
 Kan, threatning withal to complain to the King, that he fearing the King's dif- 
 pleafure , forc'd the Natives to fend me my Bargain to Ijpahan. 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 Of the ^oad from Kerman to Ifpahan ; and the Fortune of Nazar 
 Mahomet- Al i-Beg. 
 
 FRom Kerman to Ifpahan is no lefs than five and twenty days on Horfeback. 
 In thofe places where there is any Water, the Country is very good but 
 thofe places are very rare ; for the Road is generally Sandy, and offenfive 
 to the Eyes. The chiefeft comfort to a Traveller is , that every Evening 
 he meets with an Inn, where there areCifterns, which is a great refremment in 
 thofe defert Countries. The moll part of thofe Inns were built fome Years fince 
 by the fpecial care of Mahomet- Ali-Beg, Naz.ar , or Grand Matter of the King's 
 Houfe and Treafury - 0 a Perfon the moft Virtuous of any that Perfia can boaft of 
 for many Years. He was Generous, and favour'd the Franks in all things, for he 
 lov'd them exceedingly. He faithfully ferv'd his King, and defended the People 
 againft the Oppreflion and Infolencies of the Great ones} which drew upon hira 
 the hatred of many : but ftill he preferv'd himfelf by his fincerity and prudence ^ as 
 by the following Story will remarkably appear. 
 
 The Great Sha-Abas the Firft, being one day a Hunting in the Mountains far out 
 of fight from his followers, met a young Lad playing upon a Pipe by an Herd of 
 Goats. The King asking him fome Queftions , he anfwer'd him to the purpofe to 
 every -one, not knowing who he was. The King furpriz'd at his Reparti's, made 
 a fign to Jman-couli-Kan Governour of Schirat, who was juft come up to him , not to 
 tell the Goat-herd who he was. After that he proceeded to ask him other Que- 
 ftions •, to which the young Man anfwer'd fo fmartly , that the King could not 
 choofe but ftand in an amaze. Thereupon the King ask'd the Kan what he thought 
 of the Goat-herds Wit ? Who anfwer'd , that he believ'd if the Boy were taught 
 to Write and Read , he might do good fervice to his Majefty. Upon that the King 
 immediately caus'd him to be fent to School , where the young Lad being naturally 
 of a folid Wit, clear Judgment, and happy Memory, grew fo accomplifh'd , and 
 fo well acquitted himfelf of feveral Employments which his Majefty beftow'd upon 
 him , that the King advane'd him to the Office of Naz.ar, or Grand Mafter of the 
 Houfe , and did him the Honour to call him Mahomet-^AU-Beg. The King ob- 
 ferving his fidelity, and good management of all things , fent him twice Ambaflador 
 to the Great Mogul, and both times was extremely pleas'd with his Negotiation. Ada- 
 hornet lov'd Juftice,and would not ftoop to be corrupted by Prefents : A thing which is 
 very rare among the Mahometans. This great Integrity of his made all the Lords 
 of the Court his Enemies, efpecially the Eunuchs and the Women , who have always 
 the King's Ear. But while Sha-Abas liv'd, there was no perfon that durft open 
 his lips againft the Naz.ar , fo much was he in favour, and that juftly, with the 
 King. Sha-Sefi fucceeding his Grandfather Ska- Ah at , and being very young, the 
 Naz.ar\ Adverfaries thought they had now a fair Game to play. Thereupon the 
 
 Eunuchs, 
 
Chap. IX. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 4? 
 
 Eunuchs, who are always at the King's Ear, fuggefted to him many things to the 
 difadvantage of the Grand Mafter } but whatever they laid , the King gave little 
 heed to their Tales. At length , one day when the King was looking upon certain 
 Skains and Daggers fet with precious Stones, one of the Eunuchs told him thole 
 were trifles, and then defir'd his Majefty to lend for a Scimitar that the Grand 
 Signor had lent Sha-Abas , all over let with Diamonds. True it is , that the Grand 
 Signor had fent a rich Scimitar to Sha-Abas ; but Sha-Abas had defac'd it long before 
 Mahomet's time , and had made a noble Jewel of the Stones that adorn'd it. There- 
 upon this Scimitar was fought for in the Treafury, where Mahomet was chief Offi- 
 cer j but not being to be found , the King was troubl'd , finding it regiftred in the 
 Book of Preients. Then certain Eunuchs and Grandees of the Court took their 
 opportunity to rip up Mahomet's Life they reprefented to the King how many 
 Inns, Bridges, and Dikes Mahomet had built at his own charge } what a Houfe he 
 had rear'd for himfelf, fitting for his Majefty to live in: and aggravated withal, 
 that he could not do fuch great things as thofe , without purloining notably from 
 the Publick Stock for which he fhould do well to call him to an account. As they 
 were thus difcourfing, Mahomet came into the Prefence , to whom the King ( not 
 receiving him as he was wont to do ) fpoke lome hard words about the Scimitar 
 that could not be found: telling him withal , that he would fee if all the reft of the 
 things in the Treafury were agreeable to the Regifter, and then gave him fifteen days 
 time to give in his Account. Mahomet riot at all mov'd , reply'd to the King , that 
 if his Majefty pleas'd he might come to the Treafury to morrow : and withal be- 
 fought him fo to do, though the King a lecond time gave him fifteen days. There- 
 upon the King did go to the Treafury next morning, according to Mahomet's defire, 
 and found all things in good order \ having heard before what became of the Sci- 
 mitar. From thence he went to Mahomet's Houfe, who made the King a mean 
 Prefent : For it is the cuftom, that he whom the King honours with a Vifit , muft 
 make a Prefent to his Majefty. After the King had receiv'd it, he walk'd up 
 and down, and view'd the Chambers, Halls, Parlours and Rooms of State-, and 
 wonder'd to fee them lb ill fet out with plain Felts , and courfe Carpets , whereas 
 in other Lords Houfes a man could not let his Foot upon any thing but Cloth of 
 Gold and Silk. For the King , as they had fet the Naz.ar out , expected to have 
 found other things -, which made him admire at fo great a Moderation in fo high 
 a degree of Honour. Now at the end of a Gallery there was a Door lockt with 
 three great Padlocks. Of this the King took no notice : whereupon the Meter, 
 who is the White Eunuch , and chief of his Chamber, as he came back, fhew'd the 
 King the Door that was fo ftrongly Padlock'd which made the King curious to 
 have it open'd : withal , asking Mahomet what he had got there lock'd up with fo 
 much care? Oh Sir, faid he, it behoves me to keep that lockt , for there is all the 
 Eftate I have in the World. All that your Majefty has feen in this Houfe is yours, 
 but all that is in that Chamber is mine , and I dare afTure my felf , your Majefty 
 will be lb gracious as never to take.it from me. Thofe words inflam'd the King's 
 curiofity fo , that he commanded the Door to be open'd : But he was ftrangely 
 furpriz'd, when hefaw nothing more within than Mahomet's Sheep-hook, that lay 
 upon two Nails, his Scrip wherein he us'd to put his Victuals, his Bottle for his 
 Water, his Pipe, and his Shepherd's Weeds , all hanging agalnft the Wall. The 
 Naz.ar beholding the King's aftonifhment at fuch a Sight* Sir, faid he, when the 
 King Sha-Abas found me in the Mountain keeping Goats, then that was all I nad, 
 and he took nothing from me : I befeech your Majefty that you would not deprive 
 me of thefe things neither but rather, if you pleafe, let me refume them again, 
 and fall to my old Calling. The King touch'd at fo high a piece of Virtue , caus'd 
 himfelf to be difapparel'd , and gave his Habit to the Naz.ar, which is the greater]: 
 Honour that the King of Perfia can beftow upon a Subject. Thus Mahomet continu'd, 
 and dy'd honourably in his Employment. This brave Perfon was the Protector of 
 all the Franks in Perfia : and if any one had done them wrong , upon complaint he 
 did them Juftice immediately. One day as I was Ihooting Ducks , upon the River 
 of Ifpahan near the Naz.ar's Gardens , with two Servants , fome of the Naz.ar's 
 people that did not know me fet upon me, and would have taken away my Gun-, 
 which I would not let go till I had broke the Stock about the Shoulders of the one, 
 and flung the Bsrrel at the other's Head. Thereupon I took fome of the Franks 
 
 F 2 along 
 
44 The Persian Travels Book I. 
 
 along with me , and complain'd to the Naz.ar : He teftift'd his forrow for what had 
 happen'd, and gave us evident Proofs thereof, by the blows which he caus'd to be 
 laid upon thole that had done me the injury. 
 
 Another time, Sha-Scf being upon his return from (jut/an, his Tents were 
 fet up near Zulfa in Armenia , where the King (laid to hunt two or three days. 
 Now among the reft of the Courtizans that follow'd the Court , to divertife the 
 King with Dancing and Mummery, there was one who was perfectly handlbm , to 
 whom the King had already lent Prefents which could not be unknown to any 
 Lord i'the Court. But theiV^rfr's Son, for all that, being in the heat of Youth, 
 got this Courtizan to his Tent , and there lay with her : which came to his Father's 
 Ears next day. The Naz.ar, whether out of his zeal to the King , or whether it 
 were an effecl of his prudence to prevent the King's anger,which would have certainly 
 been the death of his Son , caus'd him to be drub'd, atter the manner of the Country, 
 and baftinado'd all over , till the Nails of his Toes dropt off, and that his Body 
 was almoft a perfect Gelly. Which when the King underftood, together with the 
 Young Man's Crime , he faid no more , but that the Naz.ar had done wifely by 
 punifhing his Son himfelf, to prevent his Juftice. 
 
 But to return to the Road from Kerman to Jjfahan. The firft day that I let out 
 from Kerman , at my Stage in the Evening I met with a rich Mouilah , who feeing 
 I had Wine , civilly offer'd me fome of his Ice to cool it. In retaliation , I gave 
 him fome of my Bottle. He invited me to his Houfe, which was well built, 
 with a handfom Garden with Water in it. He entertain'd me with Spoon-meat, 
 according to the mode of the Country, and when I took my leave, he fill'd my 
 Boracho with very good Wine. 
 
 The following days I faw nothing worthy obfervation *, the Country being as I 
 have already defcrib'd it. 
 
 Tez,d lyes in the Road , almoft in the mid-way between Kerman and Jfpahan , in 
 93 Deg. 15 Min. of Longitude , and 1 3 Deg. 45 Min. of Latitude. It is a great 
 Town in the middle of the Sands, that extend themfelves for two Leagues round it: 
 fo that when you leave Tez.d you muft take a Guide , for upon the leaft Wind the 
 Sand covers the Highway , whereby a man may be apt to fall into Holes , which 
 feem to have been either old Cifterns , or the Ruines of ancient Buildings. Between 
 the Town and the Sands there is a little good Soil , which produces excellent Fruits, 
 but above all, Melons of feveral forts: the Pulp of fome is green , of others yellow 
 and vermilion and fome there are, the meat whereof is as hard as a Renneting. 
 There are alfo very good Grapes, and good Wine} but the -Governour will not 
 permit the Inhabitants to make Wine. Some therefore they dry , and of the reft 
 they make a kind of Confe&ion to cat with Bread. There are alfo abundance of 
 Figs, which are large and well tafted. They diftil vaft quantities of Rofe-water, 
 and another fort of Water with which they dye their Hands and Nails red , which 
 they fqueeze out of a certain Root call'd Hina. There are three Inns i'th' City, 
 and feveral Bazaars or Market-places cover'd and vaulted , which are full of Mer- 
 chants and Workmens Ware-houfes. They alfo make at Tez.d feveral Stuffs of 
 Silk intermix'd with Gold and Silver, which they call Zerbafte; and another fort of 
 Stuff of all pure Silk, call'd Dara'i , like our fmooth ftrip'd TafFata's. Other Stuffs 
 they make, half Silk half Cotton \ others all of Cotton, like our Fuftians. They make 
 alfo Serges of a particular Wool, which is fo fine and delicate, that it looks hand- 
 forrfer , and is much better than Silk. 
 
 Though I had nothing to do, I ftaid in Yezd three days, becaufe I met with 
 fome Armenians of my acquaintance. In which time I found the general Opinion 
 to be true. For certainly the Women of Yez.d are the handfomeft Women in all 
 Terfta. There is no Feaft made, but five or fix of them come to divertife the Guefts 
 with Dancing , who are generally none of the meaneft Beauties and Converfations 
 among them. However it comes to pafs , the Per fan Proverb is, That to live happy, 
 a Man muft have a Wife of Yezd , eat the Bread of Yezdecas , and drinks the Wine 
 of Schiras. 
 
 1 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Chap.X. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Of the Caravanfera's , and Government of the Caravans. 
 
 TH E Caravanfera's are the Eaftern Inns , far different from ours for 
 they are neither fo convenient, nor ib handfom. They are built fquare, 
 much like Cloyfters, being ufually but one Story high*, for it is rare 
 to fee one of two Stories. A wide Gate brings ye into the Court } and 
 in the midft of the Building , in the front , and upon the right and left hand, there 
 is a Hall for Perfons of the beft Quality to keep together. On each fide of the 
 Hall are Lodgings for every man by himfelf. Thefe Lodgings are rais'd all along 
 the Court two or three Steps high , juft behind which are the Stables , where many 
 times it is as good lying as in the Chamber. Some will rather lye there in the 
 Winter, becaufe they are warm, and are roof'd as well as the Chambers. Right 
 againft the Head of every Horfe there is a Nich with a Window into the Lodginq- 
 Chamber , out of which every man may fee how his Horfe is look'd after. Thele 
 Niches are ufually fo large , that three men may lye in them j and there it is that 
 the Servants ufually drefs their Viftuals. 
 
 There are two lbrts of Inns. For fome are endow'd •, where you may be re- 
 ceiv'd for Charities fake , others , where you muft pay for what you call for. There 
 are none of the firft , but between Buda and Conftantinople. Nor is it lawful for 
 any others to build fuch , but only the Mother and Sifters of the Grand Signer , or 
 fuch Viz.iers y and Bajha's as have been three times in Battel againft the Chriftians. 
 In thefe Inns, which are built out of Legacies, there is a very good allowance of 
 Diet to Travellers , and at your departure you have nothing to do but to thank 
 the BenefacTror. But from Conftantinople to Perfia , there are none of thofe endow'd 
 Inns-, only fuch where you have nothing but bare Walls. It is for you to provide 
 Utenfils for your Kitchin , and a Bed to lye on : as for Provifion , the people bring 
 Lambs, Pullets, Butter, and Fruits in their feafons : or elfe you may buy it, provided 
 before-hand by the Mafter of the Houfe. There you alfo meet with Barley and 
 Straw for the Horfes , unlefs it be in fome few places that I have been at upon the 
 Road. In the Country you pay nothing for your Chambers:, but in the Cities you 
 pay fomething , though it be but a fmall matter. Ufually the Caravans never go 
 into the Towns , which are not able to contain fo many People and Horfes. When 
 you come to your Quarters every one looks after his own Chamber , for there is no 
 regard to Poor or Rich : fometimes out of Breeding, or out of Intereft, an ordinary 
 Tradefman will give way to a great Merchant } but no man is permitted to leave 
 the Chamber which he has once made choice of. In the night the Inn-keeper fhuts 
 up his Gates , being anfwerable for all things that (hall be loft-, for which reafon he 
 keeps a Guard about the Inn. 
 
 As for the Perfian Caravan/era's , they are more commodious, and better built 
 than thofe of T wkie , and at more reaibnable diftances , throughout almoft all the 
 Country. By which defcription of Inns it is eafie to obferve , that though thefe 
 Caravan/era's are not fo commodious for the Rich as our European Inns , yet they 
 are more convenient for the Poor, to whom they never refufe to give admittance : 
 no perfon being oblig'd to eat or drink more than he pleafes-, but every one being 
 allow'd to fpend according to his Stock , without grumbling. 
 
 You may travel in T wkie or Perfia, either with the Caravan, or elfe in company, 
 ten or twelve together , or elfe alone with a Guide. The fafeft way is to go with 
 the Caravan , though you are longer upon the Road , by reafon of the flownefs of 
 their march , efpecially when the Caravans confift of Camels.. 
 
 The Caravans are as it were great Convoys, which confift of a good number of 
 Merchants , that meet at certain times and places , to put themfelves into a con- 
 dition to defend themfelves from Thieves , that are very rife in Troops in feveral 
 defert places upon the Road. Thele Merchants choofe among themfelves a Caravari- 
 Bajhi , who orders them how they (hall march , afrigns the places of lodging at 
 night, and who with the chief of the Caravan,^ a kind of Judge of the differences that 
 
The Persian Travels Book L 
 
 fall out by the way. There is no honeft man that covets the employment j for the 
 Caravan-Bajlri , being to difcharge feveral fmall duties upon the Road, however he 
 behave himfelf, is ftill iufpefted for his fidelity. When the Turks are moft nume- 
 rous, they make choice of a Turks, when the Armenian Merchants are moft, they 
 choofe an Armenian. 
 
 There are two forts of Caravans. There are Caravans which confift of Camols, 
 which are the moft ufual •, in regard that Camels are cheap ,and for that fome Camels 
 will carry as much as three Horfes , others as much as four or five. But among 
 the Caravans of Camels, there are feveral Horfes and Mules , which the Merchants 
 themfelves ride upon it being very tedious to ride upon a Camel when he only goes 
 a foot-pace , but very pleafant when he goes upon his large trot. There are other 
 Caravans that confift only of Horfes*, and among thefe, if the Merchant have none 
 of his own , he may hire one. The Servants ride upon thofe Horfes that are leaft 
 laden ^ but at Smyrna you may meet with feveral good Horfes very cheap, from 
 thirty to fixty Crowns. As for thofe perfons that are either unwilling or unable to 
 be at any expence , they make ule of Affes , of which there are enow to be had. 
 Above all things , you muft take care to provide Pack-Hories to carry your Wine 
 for the Camel-Mafters being Mahometans , will not permit you to lade their Camels 
 with any fuch Liquor that Beaft being particularly confecrated to Mahomet , who 
 fo ftriftly forbad the ufe of Wine. You put your Wine in Bottles made of wild 
 Goats Skins , with the hairy fide turn'd innermoft , and well pitch'd within. There 
 are fome of thefe Bottles from whkh they take off the Hair j but they are not fo 
 good , as being feldom without holes. 
 
 Thefe Camel-Mafters are an infolent fort of people , which you (hall never know 
 how to deal with , unlefs you can bring them to punilhment. There was one that 
 play'd me fome of his jades tricks in the Road from Smyrna to Tanris ; but when I 
 came to Efcrivan, I complain'd to the Kan, who prefently caus'd a hundred Baftnado's 
 to be giv'n him upon the fpot. Nor is there any other way to bringthole Scoundrels to 
 reafon, efpecially at Smyrna and fuch other places, where the Merchants have their Cw- 
 falsywho upon the leaft complaint to the CWy have Juftice done them immediately. 
 The examples of fome of thefe Camel-drivers that have been paid off, keep the reft 
 in good decorum ; and they will be very tradable for a good while after. 
 
 The Journies of the Caravans are not equal ^ fometimes not above fix hours travel , 
 fometimes ten , and fometimes twelve it being the convenience of Water , which 
 is not every where to be met with , that is the Rule of Lodging the Caravan. At 
 all times the Caravan travels more by night than by day in Summer to avoid the heat, 
 and at other times , that you may be fure to have day enough to fet up your Tent? . 
 For if the Caravan (hould come to pitch in the night , it would be impoflible for 
 them to find where to fet up their Tents , to drefs and look after their Beafts , make 
 ready their Kitchins , and provide things neceflary for fo large a Company. True 
 it is, that in the depth of Winter and in the great Snows, they leldom fet out till two 
 or three hours after midnight and that fometimes they ftay till day-break. But 
 in Summer , according to the Journey which they intend , they fet out either at 
 midnight , or an hour after Sun-fet. The laft time I went from Smyrna the Caravan 
 confifted of fix hundred Camels , and almoft the fame number of Horfe. Sometimes 
 their number is greater , fo that the Camels going but by one and one after another, 
 a Caravan feemsto be an Army, and whether it be in travelling or lodging, they 
 take up a world of Ground. Now by reafon they travel all night in Afia , it happens 
 that the Air is indifferent wholfom •, and that the Travellers , that lye for the moft 
 part upon a Carpet fpread upon the Ground , find themfelves very httle inconve- 
 niene'd by it. 
 
 The Camels that go into Ter/ta through the Northern Provinces of Turtle, 
 travel like Horfes in a Cart, byfeven and feven*, they are ty'd together by a Cord 
 about the bignefs of a Man's little Finger, and a Fathom long , faften'd to the Pack- 
 faddle of the Camel that goes before , and to the Head-harnefs of the Camel that 
 follows. Thofe little Cords are made no ftronger , to the end that if the Camel 
 before fhould chance to fall into any hole, the Camel behind (hould either keep him 
 up , or elfe not be pull'd in after the other. And to the end that the Camel-driver 
 who leads the foremoft , may know whether the other fix follow him or no , the 
 laft Camel has a Bell about his Neck , which if it ceafe to ring , 'tis a fign that 
 
Chap.X. of Monfieur Tavernier 
 
 fome one of the fmall Cords is broken , and that a Camel has got a mifchance. The 
 feventh Camel generally carries the Provifions. For if a Merchant have fix Camels 
 laden , he is generally allow'd one to carry his Proyifion •, if he have but three, he 
 is allow'd but half a Camel's load •, but if he have nine or twelve , he pays nothing 
 for the carriage of his Provifions of Food, or any thing elfe that he pleafes. Every 
 Merchant with his Servants rides by the Camels that are laden with his Goods, 
 efpecially in the dark nights for there are a fubtil fort of Thieves , that have 
 a trick to cut the two Cords behind and before, and without any noife drive 
 the Camel out of the way, for having no Hoofs, his Feet cannot be fhod , and 
 confequently he makes no noile. As well Merchants , as others , Camel-drivers 
 and Servants , keep themfelves from fleeping fometimes by finging , and fometimes 
 by taking Tobacco, and fometimes by difcourfe. 
 
 The Caravan lyes ill fuch places as they think moft convenient , chiefly near to 
 the Water-fide. When the Sun is fet, the Shaoux, who are a fort of poor people, 
 are diligent to guard the whole Field, and take care of the Goods. They walk up 
 and down , and either in the Arabian or Armenian DialecT: they cry one to another, 
 Cjod is one, and he is merciful; adding from time to time , Have a care of your felf. 
 When they fee that the time grows near to let out, they give notice to the Caravan- 
 Bafii, who gives order to bid them cry, Saddle your Horfes ; and after that, to cry 
 again , Load. And it is a ftrange thing to confider , that upon the fecond Cry of 
 the Shaoux every thing is ready upon an inftant , and the Caravan begins to let 
 forward in great order and great filence. Every one takes care to be ready, for it 
 is dangerous to be left behind , efpecially in thole Countries which are haunted with 
 Thieves. The Wages of thefe Shaowx is the fourth part of a Piafter , for a Bale, 
 from Smyrna to Erivan. 
 
 When the Stages are long , and that they believe that they fhall not get thither 
 by ten or twelve in the morning , every one carries two fmall Wallets on each fide 
 hisHorfe, and when they come to the place where they intend to Break-faft, they 
 ipread a Carpet upon the Ground and fall to. 
 
 When you go from Confiantinople , Smyrna, or Aleppo with the Caravan , it be- 
 hoves all people to carry themfelves according to the mode of the Country, in 
 Turlgie like a Turk^ in Perfia as a Perfian\ elfe would they be accounted ridiculous, 
 nay fometimes they would hardly be permitted to pafs in fome places , where the 
 leaft mifcarriage makes the Governours jealous , who are eafily perfwaded to take 
 Strangers for Spies. Always , if you have upon the Road but an Arabian Veil, 
 with a mean Girdle, whatever Clothes you wear under, there is no danger of 
 palling any where. If you wear a Turbant , you muft of necelTity (have off your 
 Hair, elfe it will never ftay upon the Head. As for Beards, they nevermind them 
 in Turkic , the greateft being accounted the handfomeft j but in Perfia they lhave 
 their Chins, and wear their Muftaches : and I remember I have leen one of the 
 King of Per/la's Porters , whole Muftaches were fo long, that he could tye them 
 behind his neck , for which reafon he had a double Penfion. More than that, you 
 muft provide your felf of Boots according to the cuftom of the Country : they are 
 made of red , yellow , or black Cordovan , lin'd with Linnen cloth :, and in regard 
 they never reach higher than the Knee, they are as convenient to travel in asShooes. 
 As for Spurs, they never wear any, for the Iron at the upper end of the Stirrop, 
 which is four-fquare, fervesto fpur the Horfe : fo much the better, becaufe it is the 
 cuftom of all Afia to ride very Ihort. 
 
 Before you fet out, you muft provide your felf of feveral Houffiold-Goods, efpe- 
 cially of thofe Bottles that are calPd Adatares, which are made of *S idgary '-Leather \ 
 every man carries his own at the Pummel of his Saddle, or elfe faften'd to the Crupper 
 of the Saddle behind. Befides thefe you muft buy Ptorracho's, the moft fervkeable 
 things in the World , for they wiH never break , and will hold above fifty Pints 
 at a time. The fmaller Bottles ferve to put Aqua-vitas in : and the Leather whereof 
 they are made, has that peculiar to it felf, that it keeps the Water frelh. Then 
 you muft provide Food , and make a provifion of Rice and Bisket as far as To cat : 
 For as for Pullets, Eggs , and fuch like things, you meet with them almoft every 
 where } as alfo with Provifion for your Horfes, and new Bread, unlefs in fome few 
 places. You muft alfo carry a Tent with all its appurtenances , with a Mat 
 trefs and Clothes to cover the Horfes at night , efpecially in the time of the 
 
The Persian Travels Book I. 
 
 deep Snows , wherein you (hall find them almoft buried the next mor- 
 ning. 
 
 When the Caravan comes near the place where it intends to flop , every Mer- 
 chant rides before to take up a convenient place for himlelf and his Goods, for 
 which he covets a rifing Ground , that if it fhould happen to rain , the Water may 
 run from the Bales. They alfo in that cafe lay Stones under the Bales , and a Cloth 
 over them \ and the Servants make a Ditch about the Tent for the Water to run 
 into. But if it be fair weather , there is no care tak'n to let up the Tent : or 
 if it be, 'tis folded up after Supper; to the end the Owners may have the more 
 liberty to look about them, and may be in a better condition to look after the 
 Thieves. But if there be any likelihood of foul weather , the Tent is let ftand till 
 the firft Cry of the Sbdoux. The Horfes are ty'd before the Tent with Cords faften'd 
 to a Nail , and their hinder Legs are ty'd with other Cords , to the end they may 
 not ftir out of their places. If it be not feaibnable for them to eat Grafs, you 
 muft buy Barley and Straw of the Country-men that come to ferve the Caravan 
 there being no Oats , neither in Turkic nor Vcrfia. 
 
 In dreffing your Victuals , you muft follow the cuftom of the Country which is, 
 to make a Hole in the Ground , and then kindling a Fire in it , to let the Pot 
 over it. 
 
 But the greateft inconvenience which Travellers fuffer with the Caravans , is 
 this , that when they come to Waters, which are only Wells, or Cifterns, or Spring?, 
 where only two or three can lade up Water at a time. For after the Caravan is 
 lodgy, the Merchants fhall be forc'd to ftay for Water two or three hours together •, 
 for they that belong to the Beafts of Carriage, will not fuffer any perfon to take 
 any Water, till the Camels, Horfes, Affes, and Mules are all ferv'd. Nor is there 
 any contending with thefe Camel-drivers and Muleters \ for as they are a rude fort 
 of people , a Man runs the hazard of his Life by contefting alone : of which one 
 Example may fuffice for all. 
 
 Setting out one day from Bander-Abafli , for Ifpahan , with a Merchant of Babylon, 
 as we came to the Inn where we lay the firft night, which was call'd Guetcby , the 
 Merchant commanded one of his Slaves who was a Cafer of Mozambique , to fetch 
 him fome frefh Water, at thcCiftern, to drink: The Cafer went thither, and 
 return'd without any Water, telling his Mafter, that the Camel-drivers and Mu- 
 leters threaten'd to beat him, and would not let him come near the Ciftern. The 
 Merchant either ill advis'd, or not knowing the cuftom, bid him go back, and 
 kick thofe that refus'd him. Whereupon the Cafer returning, and finding the 
 lame refiftance as before , began to give ill language to the Camel-drivers , fo that 
 one of them happenM to ftrike him. Upon that the Cafer drawing his Sword, 
 ran him into the Belly, fo that he fell down dead : Thereupon the whole Rabble 
 fell upon him , bound him , and carry'd him back to Bander- Abaft for the Governour 
 to put him to death. The Mafter of the Cafer, accompany'd by feveral Merchants, 
 went to the Governour and reprefented to him the infolence of thofe people , and 
 how the bufinefs had happen'd. Upon which the Governour took the poor fellow out of 
 their hands , and caus'd him to be kept fafe } after that , he caus'd ten or a dozen 
 of thofe Muleters to be feiz'd , and order'd them to be foundly baftinado'd , for 
 hind'ring a Merchant's Servant from fetching Water for his Mafter. He alfo put 
 others in Prifon who had not been releas'd fo foon , but at the requeft of thofe 
 Merchants whofe Goods they carry'd , and who ftood in need of their lervice. 
 The Governour fpun out the bufinefs , on purpofe that the reft might be gone : but 
 as loon as they were all departed except the two Brothers of the party flain , he told 
 them , he could not do them Juftice, becaufe their Brother belong'd to Schiras ; fo 
 that all that he could do, was to fend the Criminal thither. The Mafter of the Cafer 
 being rich, and loving the Slave, made haft to Schiras , to tell his Story firft to the 
 Kan. And I remember, two days journey on this fide Schiras , we met in the High- 
 way abundance of poor people , the kindred of the party flain , who were (laying 
 for the Cafer, to carry him before the Kan, and to demand Juftice. Two or 
 three Leagues alio from Schiras I met the Father and Mother, together with the 
 Wife and Children of the deceas'd , who feeing me pafs along , fell at my Feet and 
 recounted to me their Grievances. I told them by my Kalmacht , that their beft 
 and fureft way was to take a piece of Money of the Cafer'* Mafter , and fo to put up 
 
 the 
 
Chap.XI. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 49 
 
 the bufinefs. This Propofal , that would have been accepted in Chriftendom , was 
 rejefted by thofe poor Mahometans ; in lb much that the Father tore his Beard , and 
 the Women their Hair, crying out, That if it were the cuftom of the Franks to 
 fell the Blood of their Kindred , it was not their cuftom fo to do. When the reft 
 of the kindred came with the Cafer to Schiras , the Kan did all he could to perfuade 
 the Widow to take Moneys but not being able to over-rule her, he was forc'd 
 to give the Cafer into their hands : and how they us'd him I cannot tell , being con- 
 ftrain'd at the fame time, to pafs from Schiras for Ijpahan. 
 
 > 
 
 _ L 
 
 CHAP. XL 
 
 Of the breeding, nature, and feveral forts of Camels. 
 
 TH E Female Camel bears her Burthen eleven Months •, and her Milk 
 is a fovereign Remedy againft the Dropfie. You mull drink a Pint of 
 it every Day for three Weeks together: and I have feen feveral Cures 
 wrought thereby at Balfam, Ormus , and in other places in the Perfiaa 
 Gulf, upon feveral English and Holland Mariners. 
 
 So foon as a Camel comes into the World * they fold his Feet under his Belly, 
 and make him lye upon themj after that they cover his Back with a Carpet that 
 hangs to the Ground , laying Stones upon each fide , fo that he may not be able to 
 rife and thus they leave him for fifteen or twenty days. In the mean time they 
 give him Milk to drink , but not very often ; to the end he may be accuftom'd to 
 drink little.This they do alfo to ufe them to lye down, when they go about to Lade 
 thera at which time they will fold their Legs and lye down fo obediently, that it 
 is an admirable thing to confider. So foon as the Caravan comes to the place where it is 
 to lye, all the Camels that belong to one Mafter will range themfelves in a Circle, 
 and 4ye down upon their fore Feet} To that it is but untying one Cord that holds 
 the Bales, ajld they will Aide off gently from each fide of the Camel. When. 'tis time 
 to lade again , the fame Camel comes and crouches down between the two Burthens, 
 and when they are faften'd , gently rifes [up with the Burthen again which is done 
 without any trouble or noife. When the Camels are unladen , they let them go a- 
 field to feed upon the Heath and Bufhes, and half an hour before Sun-fet they 
 return of themfelves, unlefs any one happen to wander ; which they will call 
 again with a certain Cry which is natural to them. When they return , they range 
 themfelves in a Circle , and the Muleters give to every one little Balls of Barley- 
 meal kneaded , as big as two Fifts. The Camel though he be of a large bulk , eats 
 very little , contented with what he meets with upon the Heaths j where he more 
 especially looks for Thiftles, of which he is a great lover. But it is more admi- 
 rable, to confider with what patience they endure drowth : For one time that I 
 crols'd over the Deferts, where we were 65 days upon the Road , our Camels were 
 nine days without Drink. But what is more wonderful is this , that when the 
 Camel is in the heat of Generation , he neither eats nor drinks for 40 days together ^ 
 and he is then fo furious , that without great care you cannot avoid being bitten 
 by him : And where-ever he bites , he carries away a piece of the Flefli. At that- 
 time iflues but of their Mouths a white Foam, befides that there appears on each 
 fide of their Chops two Bladders large and fwell'd > like the Bladder of a Boar. 
 
 In the Spring time all the Camel's Hair falls off in three days. The Skin remains 
 bare , and then the Flies are very troublefom. There is no way but to Tar them all 
 over : though it be a ventrous thing to come near them at that timei, 
 
 A Camel muft be dreft as well as a Horfe but the Camel-keeper never ufes any 
 Curry-comb, but only beats him all over with a froall Wand , as Carpets ate wont to 
 be dufted. If a Camel be hurt or gall'd under the Pack-faddle, they never apply 
 any thing to it, but only wafh it well with Urine, without uung any other Re- 
 medy, j 
 
 G There 
 
The Persian Travels Book I. 
 
 There are two forts of Camels - , the one which is proper for hot Countries, 
 the other for cold Countries. 
 
 The Camels in hot Countries , fuch as go from Orima to Ijpahan , cannot travel 
 if the Ground be dirty and flippery, for their Bellies burft^ while their hinder 
 Quarters rive from their Bodies. Thefe are fmail Camels , that carry not above 
 five or fix hundred Pound weight :, but they are kept for little, and endure Thirfl 
 a long time. They do not tye them Head to Tayl , as they do the great ones, but 
 let them go as they pleafe themfelves, like a Herd of Cows. The Camel-driver 
 follows them finging, and fometimes playing upon his Pipe: the louder he fings 
 and pipes, the fatter the Camels go^ nay they will ftandftill when he gives over his 
 Mufick. When the Camel-drivers come to a Heathy Ground, they will give them 
 leave to feed for half an hour, taking their Tabacco the while-, and then finging 
 them together again , they let forward. The Camels bred in the Deferts are hand- 
 fora , but very tender , fo that they mud be gently us'd , and never be put upon 
 long Journies. However , they eat and drink lefs than others , and endure thirft 
 more patiently. 
 
 The Camels of cold Countries , fuch as thofe that travel from Tawris to Conflan- 
 flantinofle, are large Camels, that carry great Burthens , and will pull themfelves out 
 of the dirt : But in fat Grounds and flippery Ways the Drivers are fain to fpread 
 Carpets, fometimes an hundred one behind another otherwile their hinder Quarters 
 are alio apt to rive from their Buttocks : but if the Road be flippery for too great 
 a diftance together , there is no way but to tarry 'till it be dry'd up and fair. Thefe 
 Camels ufually carry a thoufand Pound weight s but if the Merchant has any hank 
 upon the Camel-driver , he will lay upon every Camel fifteen hundred weight, 
 thereby making two of three Burthens. This the Merchants do , when they come 
 near the Cuftom-Houfes, efpecial'y that of Erzerom , which is the moft levere. The 
 Merchant does this for his own Profit: So that when the Cuftomer miftrufting, 
 demands how fo many Camels come to travel empty, he makes anfwer, that they were 
 Camels that carry'd ProviGon : But the Cuftomer moft commonly winks at that good 
 Husbandry of the Merchant , for fear of lofing his Cuftom , and obliging the Mer- 
 chant to take another Road. 
 
 There is as much knavery among the Camel-drivers , as among our Horfe-Courfers. 
 For I remember , that being once at Cajbin, a Perfian Merchant , thinking he had 
 bought eight good Camels , was deceiv'd in four which he thought the beft : He 
 verily believing they had been fat and in good cafe , but they were only blown up. 
 For thofe Cheats have a trick to cut a Hole near the Tail, of which thePurchafer 
 takes no notice , and which they know neatly how to low up again : In this Hole 
 they will blow till they have puft up a lean Camel , that he (hall appear as fat and 
 plump as the foundeft that ever fed: whereby they often deceive the quickeft 
 fights , efpecially when the Hair is all off, and that the bare Skin is all rub'd over 
 with Tar. 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Of the Coyns and Money of Perfia. 
 
 IN the firft place , you muft take notice that there are no Pieces of Gold coyn'd 
 in Perfia , but only fome few, to be thrown among the People when a new 
 King afcends the Throne : which Pieces are neither currant among the Mer- 
 chants, nor of a certain Price. When the Solemnity is over, they who get 
 the Pieces, are not fo curious to keep them , but carry them to the Changer, who 
 gives them the value in currant Money. Thefe Pieces of Gold may be worth t five 
 * A Frank is * Franks, about the finenefs of Almain-Quctts. Once I receiv'd ten thoufand of 
 worth 2 s. them of one Merchant, at a prefix'd rate*, for their value is uncertain. 
 Sterling. j n t ^ e f econ( j place obferve , That the Silver in Perfia is good , whether it be 
 
 inBarrs, or in Plate, or in Money, and it is taken for itsgoodnefs. For when a 
 
 Merchant 
 
\ ! 
 
Chap.XII. of Mohfieur Taverni£r, 
 
 Merchant enters into Perfia , whether it be at Erivan or Tatiris , where the Money- 
 is coyn'd, he is oblig'd to tell what Silver he carry's, to the end it may be melted 
 down and ftamp'd with the King's Stamp *, under a great Penalty, if difcover'd to 
 be a concealer. But if a Merchant's affairs will not permit him to flay at Erivan, 
 or at Tauris , and that he think it better to carry his Money to the Mint of I(pahan- y 
 'tis but taking a Note from the Mafter of the Mint either at Tauris or Erivan , to 
 atteft that he has dedar'd the truth of what he carries , and it is excufe enough. 
 
 But they that can cunningly carry their Silver to Erivan , when the Seafon is to 
 go to the Indies , make a great profit of the Real ; for the Merchants that go to 
 the Indies will give them thirteen and a half ^ or fourteen Shayez. a piece, for as 
 many as they have. But there are few Merchants that carry their Silver to I/pa. 
 han, in regard the Matters of the Mints Upon the Frontiers will be fure to prefent 
 them with a good piece of Silver Plate , rather than let them carry away their 
 Bullion to Ijpahan , to have the benefit of Coynage themfelves. 
 
 They that traffick into (fuilan for Silks carry their Silver to Teflis , where the 
 Mafter of the Mint giv|| them 2 per Cent, profit for their Silver. The reaibn is, 
 becaufe that which he gives them for it is a little fophifticated ; but it pafles currant 
 all over GuiUn. 
 
 In the third place , you muft obferve j That upon the pieces of Silver, as well 
 for the King's Duty as the Coynage of the Money , there is requir'd 7 £ per Cento 
 But upon the Copper Money, not above one half, or 1 per Cent, at moft. Whence 
 it comes to pafs , that when a Workman has need of Copper, rather than lofe time 
 in going to buy it , he will melt down his Cajbeke's. 
 
 There are four ieveral pieces of Silver Coyn - 7 Abaci's, Mamokdfs , Shaefs, and 
 BiflPs : but as for the Biftfs , there are very few at preferit. 
 
 The Copper pieces of Coyn are call'd Cajbeke , of which there are fingle and 
 double. 
 
 The fingle Cajbeke is worth five Deniers and a Half-peny of our Money. 
 
 The double Cajbeke is valu'd at eleven Deniers. 
 
 Four fingle Cafoeke's , or two double ones , make a Bifli. 
 
 Ten fingle CajbekPs, or five double ones >■ make one Shayet in value. 
 
 Two Shaycfs make a Mamoudi. 
 
 Two Mamoudts make an Abaffi. 
 
 The Real or Crown of France is worth three Abajffs and one Shayet ; and 
 counting a Real at fixty Sous, an Abajfi is worth eighteen Sous, fix Deniers. Though 
 to fay truth , three AbaffCs and one Shayet make three Half-pence more than the 
 Crown* 
 
 Number 1, and Number 2. Are two pieces, which upon one fide bear the 
 Names of the twelve Prophets of the Law of Mahomet , and in the middle this In- 
 scription, La Bah allah Mahomet re foul Allah . Ali Vdi Allah : on the back-fide, 
 The Conquerour of the World, Abas II. gives m permiffion to coyn this Money in the 
 City of Cafhan. 
 
 Num. 1. Makes five Abajfi V • and counting our Crown at thirteen Shayet 's , it 
 comes to four Livres, twelve Sous, fix Deniers. 
 
 Num. 2. Makes two Abajps and a half of our Money , or forty-fix Sous and one 
 Farthing. 
 
 Num. 3. Is an Abajfi , which comes to eighteen Sous, fix Deniers. 
 Num. 4. Is a Mamoudi , worth nine Sous and a Farthing. 
 Num. 5. Is a Shayet, worth four Sous, feven Deniers, one Half-peny. 
 Num. 6. A Bifli , worth one Sous , ten Deniers. 
 
 Num. 7. The Copper Coyn, call'd Cajbeke, worth five Deniers, one Half-peny. 
 
 Thefe Coyns, unlefs it be the Cajbeke, bear no other Infcription, but only the Name 
 of the King reigning when they were coyn'd the Name of the City where they 
 were coyn'd with the Year of the Hewra of Mahomet. 
 
 Though all Payments are made in Abajfi' s , as well at Ormus and other parts of 
 the Gulf belonging to the King of Perfia , as in the Hand of Bahren , where is the 
 great Fi(hery and Market for Pearls yet there is no mention made but only of 
 Larins, 
 
 G 2 The 
 
The Persian Travels Book I. 
 
 The Larin is defcrib'd in the Money of Arabia. Eight Larinsmake an Or; four 
 and twenty make a Toman. 
 
 An Or is not the name of a Coyn , but of a Sum in reck'ning among Merchants. 
 One Or is five Abajfts. 
 
 A T <>man is another Sum in payment : For in all Perfim Payments they make ufe 
 of only T omans and Ors • and though they ufually lay that a Toman makes fifteen 
 Crowns , in truth it comes to forty-fix Livres , one Peny and f . 
 
 As for pieces of Gold , the Merchant never carries any into Perjia , but Alman- 
 Ducats , Ducats of the Seventeen Provinces, or of Venice \ and he is bound to carry 
 them into the Mint fo foon as he enters into the Kingdom-, but if he can cunningly 
 hide them , and fell them to particular perfons , he gets more by it. When a Mer- 
 chant goes out of the Kingdom, he isoblig'd to tell what pieces of Gold he carries 
 with him •, and the King's people take a Shayet at the rate of a Ducat , and fome- 
 times they value the Ducat at more. But if he carry's his Gold away privately and 
 be difcover'd , all his Gold is confifcated. 
 
 The Ducat ufually is worth two Crowns , which in Perft juftly comes to twenty- 
 fix Shayets ; but there is no price fixt in that Country for Ducats. For when the ieafon 
 is to go for the Indies, or that the Caravan fets out for Mecca, as well the Merchants 
 as the Pilgrims buy up all the Ducats they can find out, by reafon of their light- 
 nefs j and then they rife to twenty-feven , and twenty-eight Shayets , and fometimes 
 more, a piece. 
 
 The end of the Roads from Paris to Ifpahan , through the 
 Northern Provinces of Turky. 
 
 THE 
 
Chap. I. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 THE SECOND <B 0 0 Z£ 
 
 OF THE 
 
 PERSIAN TRAVELS 
 
 O F 
 
 Monsieur TAVERNIER: 
 
 Containing the feveral 
 
 ROADS 
 
 From PARIS to ISPAHAN the Capital 
 
 City of <PE\SlA h 
 
 Through the Southern Provinces of TM^2(. I, 
 and through the DESERTS, 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 The fecond Voyage of the Author from Paris to Ifpahan : and firft 2 
 of his Embarking at Marfeilles for Alexandres. 
 
 TH E Road from Conjlantinople to Erivan , which with all thofe 
 other Roads through the Northern Provinces of Turkie , the 
 firft time I travePd into Perfia , I have amply defcrib'd. It 
 behoves me now to treat of the Southern Provinces, and of 
 thofe through the Deferts, where there are feveral Emirs, or 
 Arabian Princes, of which feveral are very potent : For there 
 are fome of them that can bring 30000 Horfe into the Field, 
 five of which I have had the honour to difcourfe , and to oblige them with fmall 
 Prefents 4 , in recompence whereof they lent me Rice, Mutton, Dates, and Sherbet, 
 as long as I ftaid among them. 
 
 I embark'd at Marseilles in a Holland Veflfel that carry'd five and forty Guns, 
 from thenee we fet fail for Malta. At Malta we ftaid twelve days to carine the 
 Veffel , and to take in frefli Victuals. Among the reft we bought two thoufand 
 Quails, for there are a prodigious quantity in the Iland : but in two or three days 
 we found five or fix hundred of them deftroy'd by the Vermin that pefter'd the 
 Ship. 
 
 From Malta we fet fail for Larneca , a good Road in the Iland of Cyprus, to the 
 Weft of Famagefta , which is not above a days journey from it by Land. As we 
 were making into the Road , about two or thre% hours after midnight , we perceiv'd 
 a Veflfel dofe upon us , and both the Ships Company began to cry out , for fear of 
 falling foul one upon another j but the Veffel iheer'd clear without any harm on 
 either fide. 
 
 In 
 
 53 
 
54 ^be Persian Travel* Book II 
 
 In the morning we caft Anchor , and went a-fhoar. It is a good half League 
 From the Road where t,he Confuls and Merchants, both Englijh, Hollanders, and French, 
 live in a very pitiful Village. However there is a little Monaftery of Capuchin. , who 
 officiate in the Chappel of the French Conful ; and another of Religious Italians, 
 that depend upon the Guardian of Jerusalem. We ftaid but two days at Larncca • 
 the Captain having nothing to do but to inform himfelf what bufinefs they might 
 have for him at his return ; it being ufual to then to take in fpun and unipun Cottons, 
 together with courfe Wool for Mattreffes. 
 
 From Larneca 'till we came in view of the Coaft of Syria, we had the Wind very 
 favourable ; but at length coming to prove a little contrary, inftead of carrying us 
 to Alexandretta , it caft us to the Northward , two or three Leagues higher, upon 
 the Coaft of CUicia , toward a Town call'd Paiaffes. Half a League from that City 
 lyes a raft Rock , and between that Rock and the Land runs a very high Sea : And 
 here it was that the people of the Country believe that the Whale caft up Jonas 
 again ; though the common Opinion reports it to have been done near Jvppa in 
 Palefiine. All along that Coaft from Alexandrctta to Paiajfes , and farther, the 
 way is lb narrow and ftraiten'd by the Mountain , that in l'ome parts the Camels and 
 Horfes muft dip their Feet in the Sea : and y t you muft pafs that way of necefhty, 
 travelling from Syria to Con slant mople. Between Alexandretta and PaiaJJis it 
 was , that the Chevalier Paul , in a Veffel that carry'd only three hundred Men, mifs'd 
 but little of furprizing the Caravan that every Year carries the Tribute of Egypt 
 to Conflantinople , which fince hath never been lent by Sea lor fear of the Malteft. 
 This Knight had landed his Men, and laid them in Ambufcade -, but unfortunately 
 his Defign was difcover'd , fo that the Caravan , that might have been eafily furpriz'd, 
 flood upon their Guard. 
 
 We were near the Coaft , when we difcover'd a Skiff with fifteen or fixteen 
 Turks , that were fent by him that commanded four Galleys of Rhodes to demand the 
 Cuftomary Prefent from our Captain. Thole Galleys then anchor'd at Paiaffes, 
 and had there difcharg'd themfelves of their Provifions of War for Bagdat , which 
 the Grand Signor was going to befiege. And it is the cuftom, that when the Great 
 Turl£s Galleys are out at Sea , that whatever ftrange Veffel paffes by them muft 
 fend them a Prefent , either willingly or by force. When the Bajha of the Sea, 
 who is the Admiral of the Turks , is in Perfon at Sea , the Veffel which he meets 
 is not excus'd for 2000 Crowns : fo that when he fets out from Conflantinople to cruife, 
 the VefTels of the Franks do all they can to avoid him. There are l'ome that will 
 feek to efcape in fight of the Galleys , but it has coll them dear. And it happen'd, 
 that one day the Wind flackning , they boarded a Veffel of Marfeilles , the Captain 
 and Notary w thereof were both feiz'd , and drub'd 'till their Bodies were almoft 
 bruis'd to a dfeily, and they had like to have dy'd upon it, without being the better 
 in their Purfes •, for the rudenefs of the Chaftifement did not excufe them from 
 paying the Money which was demanded. Whether our Captain knew any thing 
 of this Example, or whether it were out of his natural heat of Valour , he laugh'd 
 at the Skiff-men, bidding them be gone, and telling them he had noPrefents for 
 them but Cannon-Bullets. Thereupon the Men return'd to their Galleys , who foon 
 deliver'd us from the true fear we were in , that the gallantry of the Captain had 
 drawn us into an inconvenience. For while we kept the Sea dole by the Coaft , to 
 obferve the Countenances of the Turks , they weigh'd Anchor, and turn'd their 
 Prows toward Rhodes. However, before they left us they fent us a Broad-fide, and 
 our Captain , whatever we could fay, fent them another , which render'd us more 
 guilty. For the Turks pretend that when their Navy is at Sea, or only one Squadron, 
 and that a ftrange Veffel is in fight, fhe is bound to come as near as the Wind will 
 permit her without being hal'd , for which they will otherwife make the Commander 
 pay very feverely. The Confuls and Merchants of Aleppo underftanding what had 
 pafs'd, very rauch blam'd the Captain , fearing a worfe confequence of the bufinefs : 
 But by good fortune , the mifcarriage was ftifl'd and never went farther. 
 
 The fame day the Wind veering to the Weft-North-Weft , we fail'd into the 
 Road of Alexandretta , where we dfcie to an Anchor, about a quarter of a League 
 from the Land. Upon the advice which they have out of Chriftendom, fo foon as 
 they of Alexandretta difcover a Veffel , and know what Colours fhe carries , the 
 Viee-Conful of the Nation to which the Veffel belongs , fails not to advertife the 
 
 Conful 
 
Chap. I. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 Conful of Aleppo ^ by a Note which is carr'yd in four or five hours, though it be 
 more than two or three days journey on Horfe-back. For they tye a Note under 
 the Wing of a Pigeon , who is taught what to do , and (he flies direftly to the place 
 whence ftie was brought. For more furety, they ufually fend two , that if the 
 one Ihould mifcarry i'the dark , which has many times happen'd , the other may 
 iupply the defett. 
 
 Alexandres* is nothing elfe but a confus'd heap of paltry Houfes, inhabited by 
 the Greeks , who keep little Fudling-fchools , for the Mariners and others , the 
 meaner fort of the people : for the Merchants lye at the Vice-Confuls of the Nation. 
 There were but two then, the Eng&Jb Vice-Conful and the French ; who had each 
 of them a very convenient dwelling. However they muft be Men who love Money 
 at a ftrange rate, that accept of thofe Employments. For the Air, like that of 
 Ormm, is generally lb bad, efpecially in the Summer, in lb much that they who do not 
 dye , cannot avoid very dangerous Diftempers. If there be any fo ftrong that they 
 can hold out for three or four Years, and can accuftom themfelves to bad Air, they 
 do well to ftay there •, for for them to betake themfelves to a good Air , is to hazard 
 their Lives. Mr. Philips the Englijh Conful has been the only Perfon that ever liv'd 
 two and twenty Years at Alexandretta: but you muft know he was a brisk merry 
 Man , and of an excellent temper of Body , and yet for all that he had been forc'd 
 to be cauteriz'd. That which renders the Air lb bad , is the great quantity of 
 ftanding Pools and Plafhes in the neighbouring Plains, extending to the Eaft and 
 South } but when the great Heats begin to approach , the mod part of the Inhabi- 
 tants retire to a Village call'd Belan , upon the next Mountain to the City, where 
 there are very good Waters and excellent Fruits. They come alio thither from 
 Aleppo , when there is any appearance of a Peftilence and yet there are few people 
 in this Village who are not troubl'd with a fort of Fever , that makes their Eyes look 
 yellow and hollow ^ which they never can remedy as long as they live. 
 
 About half a League from Alexandretta, , on the right hand of the High-way, 
 juft againft the Merfh on the other fide, is a Tower whereon are to be feen the 
 Arms of Godfrey of T>nlloign. In all likelihood it was built for the defence of the 
 High-way, which is enclos'd between thele two Merfhes , whofe Exhalations ar£ 
 very noxious. 
 
 It is but three little days journey from Alexa ndretta to Aleppo, and fome well 
 mounted have rid it in two. The Franks are not permitted to go thither on Foot. 
 For before that Prohibition , in regard the way was fhort, every Sea-man that had 
 a hundred Crowns , more or lefs , went on Foot to Aleppo, and got eafily thither 
 in three days , with little expence. Now becaufe they had but little Money to 
 fpend, and were willing to difpatch their bufinefs, they would not ftand to give Four 
 or Five in the Hundred extraordinary for what Goods they bought, which was of 
 dangerous confequence to the Merchants. For you muft obferve , that when the 
 Ships arrive , the firft Man that either out of rafhnefs or ignorance , gives two Sous 
 more for a Commodity that is not worth a Crown, fetsthe Price, and caufes all 
 the whole Commodity to be fold at that rate. So that the Merchants that lay out ten 
 or twelve thoufand Crowns together, are very careful left thofe Saylors fhoukl get 
 before them , and enhance the Price of the Market. 
 
 To remedy which inconvenience, the Merchants obtain'd an Order, That no 
 Strangers Ihould be permitted to go a-foot from Alexandretta to Aleppo , but that 
 they Ihould be bound to hire Horfes, and to give for every Horfe fix Piafters 
 thither, and fix back which expence would foon eat out the Profit of a poor Ma- 
 riner's fmall Sum. 
 
 Ufually you ftay at Alexandretta three or four days, as well to reft your felf, 
 as to make fome little Provifions for your journey to Aleppo. For though you 
 meet with good Stages at Evening , yet the Janizaries will be very glad to eat 
 by the way. 
 
 Setting out from Alexandretta , we travel'd over a Plain to the foot of a Mountain 
 which is call'd Belan. There is a wide Gap in the midft of this Mountain, which 
 giving liberty to the North-Eaft Wind, when it blows hard , doth io enrage the 
 Road of Alexandretta, which is otherwife very calm , that no Ship can ride there 
 at that time. In fo much that all Ships that happ'n to be there when the Wind 
 rifes, prefentiy weigh, and get out to Sea , for fear of being caft away, Almoft at 
 
56 The Persian Travels Btidk II 
 
 the top of the "Mountain you meet with an Inn \ but though it be a very fair one, 
 with Fountains round about it , yet Merchants never ftop there , but go on a 
 little farther to a Grecian that fpeaks good Italian , and whole entertainment is 
 indifferent good, confidering the Country. When you go away, you give him a Crown 
 for your accommodation , which is the manner at other Stages, by a cuftom, which 
 the FranVi themfelves having eftablifh'd , will never be left off. 
 
 Defending down the Mountain you difcover the City of Antioch , built upon 
 a Hill. Formerly the Road lay through that City, but the Janizaries of the 
 •place exacting a Piafter from every perfon that travel'd that way, that Road is now 
 difus'd. Antioch once made more noife in the World, being fal'n to ruine ever 
 fince the Channel , that ran from the City to the Sea , where Galleys might ride, 
 has been ftop'd up by the Sands that have encroach'd upon the Mouth of the 
 Haven. 
 
 When you are at the bottom of the Hill toward the North, you difcover a Caftle 
 built upon a Hill Handing by it felf, (from whence you have a profpett over a good 
 part of the Plain of Anttdch. It is about fifteen Leagues long, and three broad , in 
 that part where the Road lyes. Somewhat more than half the way , you meet 
 with a long Caufey parted by feveral Bridges , by reafon of certain Rivulets that 
 crofs it, without whidi the Road were hardly paflable. The frequent Revolts of 
 Bagdat and Balfara , which the Grand Signer has been fore'd fo often to befiege, 
 1 caus'd the Grand Vifier in the Reign of Achmat to undertake this Caufey, which 
 together with the Bridge was fintfh'd in fix Months , that was lookt upon as a Mira- 
 cle. This was done for the more eafie paflage of the Artillery, and other Provifions 
 of War , that were brought out of Romania and Greece to the Siege of Bagdat , 
 which could never have been done, but for this Caufey. At the end of this Caufey 
 (lands a Bridge , very long and ftrongly built, under which runs a River, which, 
 with the other Rivulets that wind about the Plain , forms a Lake toward the South, 
 that is calPd the Lake of Antioch. This Lake affords a great Revenue , by reafon 
 of the Eels that are caught there, which are taken two Months before Lent, and 
 tranfported to Malta, Sicily, and other parts of Italy. 
 
 This Plain is very full of Olive-Trees*, which produces that great Trade of Soap, 
 that is made at Alepfo , and tranfported into Mesopotamia , Chaldea , Perfia , and 
 theDefert:, that Commodity being one of the moft acceptable Prefents that can be 
 made to the Arabians. Sallet Oyl is alfo in great efteem among them : fo that 
 when you make them a Prefent of it, they will take off their Bonnets , and rub their 
 Heads, their Faces , and their Beards with it , lifting up their Eyes to Heaven , and 
 cry in their Language, God be thanked. Therein they have loft nothing of the 
 ancient cuftom of the Eaftern People , of which there is often mention made in Holy 
 Scripture. 
 
 About a League and a half beyond the Plain , you meet with a Rock , at the 
 foot whereof is a little deep Lake , wherein they catch a world of Fifli that are 
 like our Barbels. I have kill'd them with my Piftol ; and found them to be of an 
 excellent raft*, though they are not regarded at Aleppo. 
 
 Two hours after, you ford a River which is call'd Afiora-, though if it have hap- 
 pen'd to rain, you muft ftay 'till the Waters are fal'n. Having paft the River, 
 upon the Banks whereof you ftay to feed your felf and your Horfes , you come 
 to lye at a poor Village call'd Shaquemin, where there is an Inn. Here the Country- 
 people bring Provifions of Food to the Travellers*, and whether you eat or no, you 
 muft pay a Piafter, according to the cuftom which the Franks have eftabliuYd. 
 After you have pafs'd the Plain of A/ititch as far as Shacjuemin , the Horfes in Summer 
 are fo terribly tormented with a fort of great Flies , that it were impoflible to travel 
 three or four hours together , were it not for going out of the Road , either to 
 the right , or to the left , and riding through the Fields , which are full of thofe 
 Burrs that our Clothworkers make ufe of: For in regard they grow as high as the 
 Crupper of theHorfe, they keep the Flies off from flinging and tyring the Horfes. 
 
 Leaving the Village of ShaaAemin , the Road lyes among Stones •, and for half 
 this tedious way, for two or three Leagues round about, you fee nothing but the 
 Ruines of ancient Monafteries. There are fome of them which are built almoft all 
 of Free-done-, and about half a days journey toward the North, quite out of the 
 Road, ftand* the Monaftery of St. Simeon the Stylite , with the remainder of. his fo 
 
 famous 
 
Chap. II. of Monfieur Tavernier 
 
 famous Pillar, which is ftill to be feen. The Franks that travel to Aleppq y ufually 
 go out of their way to lee that place. That which I find moft entire, and' worthy 
 obfervation among theRuines of thofe Monafteries , is the number of arch'd Citterns 
 of Free-ftone , which time has not defac'd. 
 
 From Shacjuemin you come to dine at a Village call'd Angare , where every Travel- 
 ler isentertain'd for his Piafter, as at the other Stages. Between the other Villages it is 
 ten hours journey *, but between Angare and Aleppo , but three.We alighted at the 
 French Conful's Houfe , at what time the Cuftomers came prefently to fearch our 
 Cloak-bags ; after which we went to the Quaiffery, which is a place where all Strangers 
 are at the expence of half a Crown a day for themfelves , and a quarter fo much 
 for every Servant , and are well entertain'd. 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 TJ?e Defcription of Aleppo , now the Capital City of Syria. 
 
 ALeppo is one of the moft famous Cities in all Turkie , as well for the 
 bignels and beauty of it, as for the goodnefsof the Air, and plenty of 
 all things *, together with the great Trade which is driv'n there by 
 all the Nations of the World. It lyes in 7 1 Deg. 41 Min. of Longitude, 
 and 3 6 Deg. 15 Min. of Latitude, in an excellent Soil. With all the fearch that 
 I could make , I could never learn how it was anciently eall'd. Some would have 
 it to be Hierapdis , others Bercea : and the Chriftians of the Country agree with 
 the latter. The Arabian Hiftorians that record the taking of it, call it only Aleb, 
 not mentioning any other name. Whence this Obfervation is to be made , That 
 if the Arabians call it Aleb, others Alep •, the reafon is , becaui'e the Arabians never 
 ufe the Letter T* in their Language. This City was tak'n by the Arabians in the 
 fifteenth Year of the Hegyra of Mahomet, which was about the Year of CHRIST 
 637, in the Reign of Heraclius Emperour of Conflantinople. 
 
 The City is built upon four Hills , and the Caftle upon the higheft that ftands 
 in the middle of Aleppo , being fupported by Arches in fome places, for fear the 
 Earth ihould tumble and moulder away from it. The Caftle is large, and may be" 
 about five or fix hundred Paces in compafs. The Walls and Towers , though built 
 of Free-ftone , are of little defence. There is but one Gate to enter into it from 
 the South , over a Draw-bridge, laid over certain Arches crofs a Moat about fix or 
 feven Fathom deep. There is but one half of it full of Water, and that a Handing 
 Puddle to boof, the reft is a meer dry Ditch: fo that it cannot be accounted a 
 wholfom place. However there is Water brought into the Caftle through a large 
 Pipe from the Fountains in the City : and there is a ftrong Garrifon kept 
 in it. 
 
 The City is above three Miles in circuit , and the beft half of it is unmoated ^ 
 that Moat there , is not above three Fathom deep. The Walls are very .good, 
 and all of Free-ftone *, with feveral fquare Towers, diftant one from the other about 
 fourfcore Paces between which there are others alfo that are lefs. But thele Walls 
 are not all of them of an equal height , for in fome places they are not above four 
 Fathoms from the Ground. There are ten Gates to enter into the City, without 
 either Moat or Draw-Bridge :, under one of which there is a place that the Turks 
 have in great veneration \ where they keep Lamps continually burning , and report 
 that Mtifha the Prophet liv'd for fome time. 
 
 There is no River that runs through Aleppo ; and but only a fmall one without 
 the City, which the Arabians call Cote. However , though indeed it be but pro., 
 perly a Rivulet, yet it is very ufeful to water the Gardens, where grows an 
 abundance of Fruit, particularly Piftaches, much bigger, and better tafted than thofe 
 that comes from the parts near Cajbm. But though there be no River, yet there 
 are ftore of Fountains and Receptacles of Water, which they bring from two places 
 diftant from the City. 
 
 H The 
 
The Persian Travels Book II 
 
 The Edifices , neither publick nor private , are very handfom , but only within- 
 fide , the Walls are of Marble of feveral colours , and the Cieling of Foliage 
 Fret-work, with Infcriptions in Gold'n Letters. Without and within the City 
 there are fix and twenty Mofquees , fix or feven whereof are very magnificent, 
 with (lately Duomo , s , three being cover'd with Lead. The chiefeil and largeft 
 of all , was a Chriftian Church which they call'd Alhha , or Lifien'd unto : which is 
 thought to have been built by St. Helen. In one part of the Suburbs alfo ftands 
 another Mofquee , which was formerly a Chriftian Church. In that there is one 
 thing worthy obfervation. In the Wall upon the right fide of the Gate , there is 
 a Stone to be feen two or three Foot fquare , wherein there is the figure of a hand- 
 lbm Chalice, and a Sacrifice over the hollow of it, with a Crefcent that covers the 
 Sacrifice , the two Horns whereof defcend juft upon the brims of the mouth of the 
 Chalice. One would think at firft that thole Figures were in Mofaic-W ork : but 
 it is all Natural , as I have found with feveral other Franks , having lcrap'd the Stone 
 with an Iron Inftrument , when the Turks were out of the way. Several Confuls 
 would have bought it, and there has been offer'd for it 2000 Crowns^ but the 
 Bajha's of Aleppo would never fuffer it to be fold. Half a League from the City 
 lyes a pleafant Hill , where the Franks are wont to take the Air. On the fide of 
 that Hill is to be feen a Cave or Grotto , where the Turks report that Haly liv'd 
 for ibme few days - , and for that there is an ill-Oiap'd figure of a Hand imprinted in 
 the Rock , they farther believe it to be the Hand of Haly. 
 
 There are three Colledges in Aleppo , but very few Scholars, though there be 
 Men of Learning that belong to them , who have Salaries to teach Grammar, and 
 their odd kind of Philofophy, with the Grounds of their Religion , which are the 
 Principal Sciences to which the Turks apply themfelves. 
 
 The Streets of the City are all pav'd, except the Bazar's, where the Merchants 
 and Handicraft-Tradefmen keep their Shops. The chiefeft Artifts , and the moft 
 numerous, are Silk and Chamlet- Weavers. 
 
 In the City and Suburbs there are about forty Inns , and fifty publick Baths , as 
 well for Women as for Men , keeping their turns. 'Tis the chiefeft Paftime the 
 Women have to go to the Baths , and they will fpare all the Week long to carry 
 a Collation , when they go at the Weeks end to make merry among themfelves , in 
 thofe places of privacy. 
 
 The Suburbs of the City are large and well peopl'd, for almoft all the Chriftians 
 have their Houfes and Churches there. Of which Chriftians there are four forts in 
 Aleppo , I mean of Eaftcrn Chriftians , that is to fay, Greeks , Armenians, Jacobites 
 or Syrians , and Maronites. The Greeks have an Archbifhop there, and are about 
 fifteen or fixteen thoufand in number \ their Church is dedicated to St. George. The 
 Armenians have a Bifhop , whom they call Vertabet • and are about twelve thou- 
 fand in number*, their Church is dedicated to the Virgin. The Jacobites being 
 about ten thoufand, have a Bifhop alfo and their Church is likcwife dedicated to the 
 Virgin, as is that of the Armenians. The Maronites depend upon the Pope, not being 
 above twelve hundred ^ their Church being confecrated to St. Elias. The Roman Catho- 
 licks have three Churches , ferv'd by the Capuchins , Carmelites , >and Jefuites. They 
 reckon that in the Suburbs and City of Aleppo there are about 250000 Souls. 
 
 There is a vaft Trade at Aleppo for Silks and Charalets *, but chiefly for Gall-Nuts, 
 and Valanede, which is a fort of Acorn-fhell without which the Curriers cannot drefs 
 their Leather. They have alfo a great Trade for Soap, and for feveral other Com- 
 modities J the Merchants repairing thither from all parts of the World. For not 
 to fpeak of the Turks , Arabians, Perfians, Indians , there are feveral Englifi, Italians, 
 French, and Hollanders , every Nation having their Conful to carry on their Interefts, 
 and maintain their Priviledges. 
 
 Nor does this place happ'n to be fo great a Mart, through the convenience of the 
 two Rivers of Tip-is and Euphrates , as fome have writt'n by which they fay fuch 
 vaft quantities of Commodities are tranfported and imported out and into the City. 
 For had that been, I fhould never have crofs'd the Defert, coming from Bagdat to 
 Aleppo; nor at another time, going from Aleppo to Balfara. And as for Euphrates, 
 certain it is, that the great number of Mills built upon it , to bring the Water to the 
 neighbouring Grounds , have not only render'd it unnavigablc , but made it very 
 dangerous. 
 
 I muft 
 
Chap. II. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 I muft confefs, that in the year 1638 I fa w a great part of the Grand Sianor\ 
 Army, and feveral Boats full of Warlike Provifions fall down the Stream , when 
 he went to befiege it : but then they were forc'd to take away all the Mills that 
 are upon the River which was not done without a vaft trouble and expence. As 
 for Tigris, it is not navigable 'till beyond Babylon down to Balfara , where you may 
 take Water, and be at Balfara in nine days. But the Voyage is very inconvenient, 
 for at every Town which the Arabs have upon the River , you muft be hal'd , and 
 be forc'd to leave fome Money behind you. Sometimes indeed the Merchants of 
 Moufful and Bagdat, and others that come out of Chaldea to Trade at Balfara, carry 
 their Goods by Water from Bagdat ; but in regard the Boats are only to be tow'd 
 by Men , it takes them up a Voyage of feventy days. By this you may judge of 
 the time and expence of carrying Goods by Water up the River Euphrates to Bir y 
 where they are to be unlad'n for Aleppo. 
 
 In fhort , if the convenience of Morat-fou ( for fo the Turks call Euphrates ) were 
 to be had, and that Goods might be tranfported by that River, the Merchants 
 would never take that way : for the Arabian Princes , with their People and their 
 Cattel, lying all the Summer long upon the Banks of the River, for the fake of the 
 Water and the Grafs, would make the Merchants pay what Toll they pleas'd them- 
 felves. 
 
 I faw an Example of this, coming one time from Babylon to Aleppo. In all which 
 Road we met but with one of thole Arabian Princes , who lay at Anna 1 yet he 
 made us pay for every Camel's Load forty Piaslers. And which was worfe, he 
 detain'd us above five Weeks , to the end his Subjects might get more of our Money 
 by felling us their Provifions. The laft time I pafs'd the Delert , I met another of 
 thefe Arabian Princes together with his Brother, both young Men : He would not 
 let us go a ftep farther , unlefs we would exchange two hundred Piafiers in fpecie 
 for Larins , the Money of the Country, and he forc'd us to take them, what-ever we 
 could urge to make it appear how much we fhould lofe by them. And indeed we 
 faid as much as we could , for the difpute lafted two and twenty days to no purpofe ; 
 might overcoming right. By this you may guefs what the other Arabians would 
 do , who are not a jot more civil j and whether the Merchants would get by taking 
 the Road of Euphrates. 
 
 The City is govern'd by a Bafha , who commands all the Country from Alexan- 
 dretta to Euphrates. His Guard ufually confifts of three hundred Men , and fome 
 years ago he was made a Vizier. There is alio an Aga or Captain of the Cavalry, 
 as well within the City as without, who commands four hundred Men. There is 
 another Aga who has under him feven hundred Janizaries , who has the charge of 
 the Gates of the City , to whom the Keys are carry'd every Evening , neither has 
 he any dependance upon the Baflia. The Caftle is alfo under another Commander, 
 fent immediately from Confiantinople, who has under him two hundred Musketeers, 
 and likewife the charge of the Cannon •, of which there are about thirty Pieces j 
 eight great Guns, the reft of a fmall fize. There is alfo another Aga or Captain of 
 the City , who commands three hundred Harquebuzes ; befide a Sou-Bafln , who 
 is a kind of Provoft of the Merchants, or Captain of the Watch , going the round 
 every Night with his Officers through the City and Suburbs. He alfo puts in 
 Execution the Sentences of the Bafha, upon Criminal Offenders. 
 
 In Civils there is a Cadi, who fits fole Judge, without any Affiftants, of all 
 Caufes as well Civil as Criminal :, and when he has condemn'd any Man to Death, 
 he fends him to the Bafha , together with his Accufation , with whom the Bafha 
 does as he pleafes. This Cady makes and diffolves all Contracts of Marriage -, all 
 Afts of Sale and Purchafe pafs in his prefence. He alfo creates the fworn Matters 
 of every Trade , who make their infpeftion that there may be no deceit in the Work. 
 The Grand Signer's Duties are receiv'd by a Tefterdar, or Treafurer-General , who 
 has under him feveral Receivers in divers places. 
 
 In matters of Religion, the Mufti is the Chief, and the Interpreter of the Law, 
 as well in relation to the Ceremonies, as in all Ecclefiaftical differences. Among 
 thefe Interpreters of the Law there is a Chieke or Doctor, appointed to inftrucl thole 
 that are newly converted to Mahumetanifm , and to teach them the Maxims and 
 Cuftoms of their Religion. 
 
 Three days after I arriv'd at Aleppo , Suit an Amur at made his Entry , going to 
 
 H 2 his 
 
6o 
 
 Tbe Persian Travels Book II 
 
 his Army , which was upon its march to the Siege of Babylon. Now you muft 
 take notice , that not far from Aleppo, toward the Eaft, there (lands a Houfe inha- 
 bited by the Dervies, which are a Religious Order among the Turks ^ though it for- 
 merly belong'd to the Monks of St. Bafil , and was a fair Covent. It is ftill in good 
 repair, the Walls of the Chambers, Halls, and Galleries being all of Marble. All 
 the Dervies of this Houfe went half a League from the City, as far as Mount Omelet, 
 to meet the Grand Signor ; and the Superiour,attheHead of the reft, having made 
 a Speech to hisHighnefc, two Dervies came and made their obeii'ance in particular. 
 Which being perform'd , from that place to the Caftle of Aleppo, for half an hours 
 march together \ they went jufl before the Grand Signor's Horfe , turning round 
 continually with all their might, 'till they foam'd again at the Mouth , and dazl'd 
 the Eyes of thofe that beheld them. There are fome of thefe Dervies that will 
 turn in that manner for two hours together , and glory in that which we account 
 folly. 
 
 While the Grand Signor ftaid at Aleppo, the Bajha of Cayro came thither with a 
 thoufand Janizaries i And indeed , there never was a fight of Men more active, or 
 better order'd. Every one of them had Scarlet Breeches that reach'd down to 
 their Ancles , with a 7V^f-Robe of Englijli Cloth , and a Waft-coat of Calicut 
 painted with feveral Colours. The moft part had Buttons of Gold and Silk *, and 
 as well their Girdles as their Scimitars were adorn'd with Silver. The Bajha 
 march'd at the Head of this Magnificent Regiment in a modeft Garb but the 
 Harnefs of his Horfe was as rich as his Habit feem'd to be carelefs, having fpar'd 
 for no Coft to appear before the Grand Signor in a {lately Equipage. 
 
 There is a neceffity for a Man to flay fome time at Aleppo , as well to difpofe 
 of his Affairs , and in expectation 'till the Caravan be ready, unlefs he will venture 
 himfelf alone without a Guide, which I have done more than once. And thus much 
 for Aleppo , next to Confiantinople and Cayro , the moft confiderable City in all the 
 Tarkjjh Empire. 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Of feveral ^oads in general from Aleppo to Ifpahan , and par- 
 ticularly of the ^oad through the great Defert. 
 
 jp? ■ "^Here are five principal Roads from Aleppo to Ifpahan , which being added 
 to thofe other Roads which I have defcrib'd , through Natolia, make 
 leven Roads into Per/la , parting from Constantinople , Smyrna , or 
 jJL Aleppo. 
 
 The firft of the five Roads, fetting out from Aleppo, is upon the left hand, to- 
 ward the Summer-Eaft, through Diarbek,and Tanris. The fecond directly Eaft, 
 by Mesopotamia , through Moujful and Amadan. The third upon the right hand, 
 toward the Winter-Eaft , through Bagdat and Kengavar. The fourth lbmewhat 
 more to the South , crofiing a little Defert , through Anna, Bagdat, and Balfara. 
 The fifth through the great Defert , which is an extraordinary Road , never travel'd 
 but once a year, when the Merchants of Turkie and Egypt go to buy Camels. Of 
 thefe Roads I intend to treat diftinttly, and in feveral Chapters. And firft of 
 the Road through the great Defert. 
 
 The Caravans that go to Balfara this way never fet out 'till the Rains are fal'n, 
 that they may not want Water in the Defert : and the Rain feldom holds up 'till 
 December. This Caravan , with which I travel'd, fet out upon Chrifimas-dzy , con- 
 fifting of about fix hundred Camels, and four hundred Men, Mafters and Servants 
 together: the Caravan-Bajhi being only on Horfe-back, and riding before, to find 
 Water, and convenient places to lodge in. 
 
 I muft confefs I had the convenience my felf to ride my ownHorfc, which I kept 
 all the while I was at Aleppo. A liberty permitted the Frank* only at Confiantinople, 
 Smyrna, ^nd Aleppo: for at Damas, Seyde, or Cayro , none but theCohfuls are fuffer'd 
 
 to 
 
Chap. III. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 to keep Horfes: others can only keep or hire Afles , which ftand ready in the 
 publick Streets at all times. 
 
 The next day we diflodg'd by day-break , and by noon we came to a place where 
 there were five Wells , about five hundred Paces diftant one from the other. The 
 Water was excellent , and caus'd us to replenifh our BoracWs : and about four a 
 Clock in the Afternoon , we lay at a place where there was no Water. 
 
 The next day near noon we met with two Wells, but the Water was not good, 
 and only the Camels drank of it*, there we alio lodg'd that night. 
 
 Having now travePd two days in the Defert, I will defcribe it in a few words- 
 You begin to enter upon it two or three Leagues from aAlcppo , where by 
 degrees you meet with nothing but Tents inftead of Houles. It ftretches out to 
 the Winter-Eaft, all along the Euphrates to Balfara , and the Shoar of the Gulf of 
 Perfia; and upon the South to the Chain of Mountains that divides it from Arabia 
 Tetrta and Arabia the Happy. Theie Delerts are almoft quite thorough nothing 
 but Plains of Sand, which in fome places lye loofer than in others*, and are hardly 
 paffable 'till the Rains are but newly fal'n , and have knit the Sands together. Tis 
 a rare thing jto meet with a Hill or a Valley in thel'e Deferts *, if you do , there 
 is as furely Water , and as many Bufhes as will ferve to boyl a little Rice. For 
 throughout the whole Defert there is no Wood to be found - 0 and all the Bavins 
 and Charcoal that you can load upon Camels at Aleppo, will not lad above eight or 
 ten days. Therefore you muft take notice, that of fix hundred Camels that pafs 
 through the Defert , there are fcarce fifty laden with Merchandize, which is gene- 
 rally courfe Cloth , fome little Iron Ware , but chiefly black and blew Calicuts, 
 which the Arabians make ufe of without ever whitening them. All the other 
 Camels are only laden with Provifion, and all little enough •, fomany People being 
 to travel for fo many days through fo long a Tract of Ground where there is nothing 
 in the World to fuftain Life and Soul together. 
 
 For the firft fifteen days travel we met with Water but once in two days , and 
 fometimes not above once in three days. The twentieth day after we fet out from 
 Aleppo, the Caravan lay at a place where there were two Wells , and the Water very 
 good. Every one was glad of the convenience of wafhing his Linnen, and the 
 Caravan-Bzfoi made account to have (laid there two or three days. But the News 
 that we receiv'd , caus'd us to alter our Refolutions. For we had no fooner giv'n 
 order to drefs our Suppers , when we law a Courier with three Arabs , all mounted 
 upon Dromedaries , who were fent to carry the news of the Taking of Babylon 
 to Aleppo and other Cities of the Empire. They flop'd at the Wells to let their 
 Beafts drink*, and immediately the Caravan-Bafoi , and the principal perfons of the 
 Caravan made them a fmall Prefent of dry'd Fruits and Granates. Who thereupon 
 werefo kind as to tell us, that the Camels which carry'd the Baggage belonging to 
 the Grand Signor and his Train being tyr'd , his Officers would be fure to feize 
 upon ours , if they fhould chance to meet with us : they advis'd us moreover not to 
 come near Anna, left the Emir fhould flop us. 
 
 Upon this news, we departed three hours after midnight •, and keeping directly 
 to. the South, we put our felves into the midft of the Defert. 
 
 Eight days after we came to lye at a place where were three Wells , and three 
 or four Houfes. W 7 e ftaid there two days to take frefh Water, and we were juft 
 fetting forward again , when thirty Horfemen well mounted came from one of the 
 Emits, to tell the Caravan-Bafhi that he muft flop his Caravan. We ftaid im- 
 patiently for him three days *, and at length he came , and was prefented by the 
 Caravan-Bajhi with a piece of Satin, half a piece of Scarlet Cloth, and two large 
 Copper Cauldrons. Now although thofe Cauldrons could not but be very acceptable 
 to an Arabian Prince, who moft certainly had none luch in his Kitchin , yet he did 
 notfeem contented with his Prefent, and demanded above four hundred Crowns. We 
 contefted feven or eight days to have kept our Money in our Pockets , but in vain •, 
 fo that we were fore'd to rate one another , and to raife him his Sum •, which being 
 paid, he treated the chief of the Caravan with Pilaw, Honey, and Dates, and when 
 he went away, gave them five or fix Sheep ready boyPd. 
 
 Three days after we had left this Arabian Prince , we met with two Wells near 
 certain old decay'd Brick Buildings. The Water of thofe Wells was lb bitter, 
 that the Camels would not drink it: however we filPd our BoracWs , thinking 
 
 ix 
 
62 
 
 The Persian Travels Book II. 
 
 it would have left its bitternefs by being boyPd : but we found the contrary. 
 
 From thofe two Wells that were good for nothing , we travel'd fix days before 
 we met with any Water, which with the three days before, made nine and all that 
 time the Camels never drank, as I have hinted already. At the end of nine days we 
 crofs'd a Hilly Country for three Leagues together, at the feet of three of which Hills 
 there were three (landing Pools. The Camels, that fmelt the Water half a League 
 off,, put themfelves upon their great trot , which is their manner of running , and 
 no fooner came to the Pools but they crouded in all together, which caus'd the 
 Water to be thick and muddy. Thereupon the Caravan-Bajhi refolv'd to ftay there 
 two or three days together, 'till the Water was fetl'd. Here we had alfo the 
 opportunity to boyl us lome Rice , there being good ftore of Bufhes that grew about 
 the Lake. But above all, the People were over-joy'd that they had an opportunity 
 to make Bread , which they do after the following manner. Firft they dig a round 
 Hole in the Ground, half a Foot deep, and two or three in diameter, which they 
 croud full of Bufhes , and then let them on fire , covering them with Bricks or 
 Stones 'till they are red-hot. In the mean while they prepare their Dough upon 
 a Sofia, or round piece of Copper , which ferves at other times for Table and Table- 
 Cloth to eat upon. Then they take away the Afhes and Bricks , and making the Hole 
 very dean, put in their Dough , and cov'ring it again with the hot Bricks or Stones, 
 leave it lb 'till the morning. The Bread thus bak'd is very well tailed, not being 
 above two Fingers thick, and as big as an ordinary Cake. 
 
 While we ftay'd at the three Ponds, I fpent my time in killing Hares and Par- 
 tridge , of which there was very great plenty in thole parts. The night before 
 we departed wefill'd our BorachJs again , the Water being very good and clear-, 
 though it be nothing but Rain-water preferv'd in thofe Cavities , which in the 
 Summer are dry again. 
 
 But now the Caravan-Bajhi , feeing we had travel'd already nine days without 
 finding any Water, refolv'd to leave the South , and to keep to the Weft:, and if he 
 met not with Water in two or three days , to take to the North-Eaft, or Winter- 
 Eaft, in quefl of the River Euphrates. 
 
 Two days after we had chang'd our Road , we pafb'd between two little Hills, 
 where we met with a Pond , near to which were two Arabians, each with his Wife 
 and Children , tending a Herd of Goats and a Flock of Sheep. They told us they 
 were going toward Mouffkl, and put us in the beft Road to find Water •, and indeed, 
 from that place to Balfara , we never travel'd three days together, but we met with 
 enough. 
 
 Five days after we had left thofe two Arabians , we difcover'd a large Palace all 
 of Brick •, which fhew'd fome probability, that the Country had been formerly fow'd, 
 and that the Bricks had been burnt with the Straw. To the Palace belong'd three large 
 Courts-, in every one of which were fair Buildings, with two Stories of Arches, 
 one upon another. Though this large Pile was (landing, yet no body liv'd in it, 
 nor could the Arabians , very ignorant in Antiquity , tell us by whom it was built. 
 Before the Gate of the Palace there is a Lake with a Channel, the bottom whereof 
 is brick'd, as alfo the Arch, which is even with the Ground. This the Arabians believe 
 to have been a conveyance of Water from Euphrates: which furely could never be, in 
 regard that Euphrates is above twenty Leagues diftant. 
 
 From that Palace we kept to the North-Eaft , and after we had travel'd five days, 
 we arriv'd at a pitiful Town , formerly call'd Cufa , now Meched-AU , where Alt, 
 Mahomet's Son-in-law lyes buried in a plain Mofcjuee. Generally there (land four 
 Tapers lighted about the Tomb , and certain Lamps burning over-head , which are 
 faften'd to the Roof. 
 
 Though the Perfians have Ali in fo much veneration , yet they rarely go in Pil- 
 grimage to his Tomb. The reafon is , becaufe that there being no way to come at 
 it, but through Bagdat, which is under the Dominion of the Great Turkey there is 
 a demand of eight Piafters from every Pilgrim-, which is an Impofition that no way 
 pleafes the King of Perfia. Sha-Abas fcorning that his Subjetts (hould be tributary to 
 the Turks, endeavour'd to divert them from this Pilgrimage by another fort of 
 Devotion, which hefetup at Mefoeed, upon the Road from Tauris to Candahar. Nor 
 have the Kings his SuccefTors been lefs unwilling to give their Subjects leave to vifit 
 their Prophet Ali , taking it for an Affront to pay Tribute to the Grand Signor, 
 
 Which 
 
 V 
 
Chap.III. of Monfieur Tavernier, 63 
 
 Which is the reafon that this Mofyuee is no more enrich'd by the Perfians. For 
 befides the Lamps and Tapers that burn continually, there are only two Moullatis 
 that read the Alcoran according to cuftom. In this Town there are only three or 
 four bad Wells of brackifh Water, and a dry Channel, which they lay Sha-Abas 
 made to bring the Water of Euphrates to the Town for the benefit of the Pilgrims. 
 As for Food , we met with nothing but Dates, Grapes , and Almonds , which the 
 people fold at a dear rate. When any Pilgrims come thither, which is very rare, 
 and that they want Victuals, the Sheck^ caules a diftribution to be made among 
 them of Rice boyl'd with Water and Salt, and a little Butter pour'd a top. For 
 there is no Pafturage for Cattel , and by conlequence there can be no (lore of 
 Food. 
 
 Two days journey from Ali\ Town, by nine of the Clock in the morning we met 
 two young Arabian Lords that took upon them the name of Sultans. They were 
 two Brothers, one of the age of feventeen years, the other of thirteen-, and as 
 we pitch'd our Tents , they pitch'd theirs clofe by us j which were of a very fine 
 Scarlet Cloth and among the reft there was one cover'd with Purple Velvet , lac'd 
 with a rich Galoon-lace. So foon as they were fetl'd in their Tents, the Caravan- 
 Bajhi and I went to wait upon them •, who understanding that there were Franks 
 in the Caravan, ask'd me whether I had any Curiofities to fell them :, but when I 
 made them anfwer that I had nothing worthy their purchafe, they would not 
 believe me , and therefore commanded the Caravan-Bajlu to fetch my Trunks , that 
 they might be open'd in their prefence. While they were opening, one of the 
 chief perlbns about thofe Princes would not fuffer any of the reft of the Arabs to 
 come near , for though moft of the Arabs are great Thieves , yet fome of them are 
 perfons of great integrity. Now. I had in my company a young Painter, who had 
 in his Cheft feveral engrav'd Cuts, part Landskips, part Figures , together with 
 the Pictures of certain Courtifans drawn to the Waft. The young Lords made 
 choice only of twenty of thole Courtifans , which I would have prefented to them ^ 
 but they gave me to underftand , that they knew how to pay for what they had, 
 and efpecially the youngeft , who feem'd to be very generous him I pleas'd in an 
 extraordinary manner-, for his Teeth being very foul, I order'd a Chirurgeon that 
 I carry'd along with me at the fame time to clean them , which he did to the great 
 fatisfa&ion of the young Prince. Thereupon they lent me and my Train , of their 
 beft Victuals they had. The Caravan-Baflii prefented them with half a piece of 
 Scarlet , and two pieces of Tiffue of Gold and Silver. When we were ready to go, 
 the young Sultan gave me twelve Ducats for my Pictures , and lent the Caravan- 
 Bafii and my lelf two Frails of the beft Dates that we had met with fince we left 
 Aleppo. 
 
 About midnight the Princes diflodg'd , and took to the North, toward Euphrates. 
 We fet forward after them , driving Northward toward the fame River. After we 
 had travel'd four days we met one of the moft potent Emirs of Arabia , who coming 
 from the South , and going Northward , was to crofs the Road that we kept. He 
 was about fifty years of age , well made , and of a comely prefence. He had not 
 then above two thoufand Horfe , of thirty thoufand which we heard held pafs'd by 
 fome days before. Behind the two thoufand Horfe were fifty Camels that carry'd 
 his Women j their Cajavas being cover'd with Scarlet-cloth fring'd with Silk, find 
 the midft of thefe Camels there were fix encompafs'd with Eunuchs , the Fringes of 
 the Cajavas being Silk, Silver, and Gold. The Arabians do not feem to be jealous 
 of their Wives , as in T nrkie and other places } for they led their Camels by our . ' 
 Caravan, never requiring us to retire, as is the cuftom in other places. They lodg'd 
 a quarter of a League off, where we thought to have pitch'd , for the conveniency 
 of two or three Ponds , which they depriv'd us of. This Arabian Prince had a 
 great number of lovely Horfes richly harnefs'd : others he had that were neither 
 fadl'd nor bridl'd, yet the Riders would turn them with a Wand which way they 
 pleas'd , and upon a full gallop would ftop 'em, by only holding them by the Hair. 
 He had fome Horfes of an exceffive price -, and this is to be obferv'd , that they are 
 never fhod. 
 
 The Caravan-Bajhi believing he fhould not efcape lcot free from lb powerful a 
 Prince, among the Merchants of the Caravan found out a rich Saddle, with Bridle 
 and Stirrups, which were all fet out and garnifh'd with maffy Silver, with an 
 
 erabroidefo 
 
64 The Persian Travels Book II. 
 
 embroider'd Quiver full of Arrows , together with a Buckler , the whole coming 
 to about eleven or twelve hundred Livers ; and adding to thefe of his own a piece 
 of Scarlet , four pieces of TifTue of Gold and Silk , and fix pieces of Tifllie of Silver 
 and Silk, made a Prelent of all together to the Emir. But he refus'd all, demanding 
 only two hundred thoufand Piafiers for Larins : which exchange being no way for 
 the Merchants profit, rais'd a great difpute. But at length, confidering that it was 
 in his power to flop and ftarve us there, we only endeavour'd a Compofition } which 
 was obtain^. Thereupon he took the Prefent, which perhaps he would not eliehave 
 done. For two days that we (laid to weigh the Money , he fent Provifions to the 
 chief of the Caravan-, and at our departure, he lent us twelve Frails of Dates, 
 and four young Camels that might be worth about forty Crowns a-piece. 
 
 Two days after we met a Schekj, who among the Arabians is one of the chief of 
 the Law. He was going to Mecca , crols fome part of Arabia the Happy , with a 
 Train of ten or twelve Camels. He (laid all night with us, and one ot his Servants 
 having been dangeroufly wounded about two days before with a Musket-bullet, 
 my Chirurgeon drefl him, and gave him Salve and Tents, for which he was extremely 
 thankful. He fent me to Supper a great Difh of Pilaw, and the next day a whole 
 Sheep. The Caravan-Bajln likewile prefented him with two Ells of Scarlet. 
 
 The next we met with nothing worth obfervation , but the day following we 
 met another Emir , of about Five and Twenty years of age , who came from 
 Euphrates , and was travelling into the Happy ^Arabia. He had with him about 
 five hundred Horfe , and three hundred Camels that carry'd his women. He pre- 
 fently fent to know what Caravan it was , and underftanding that it confifted of 
 many Franks , among whom there was a Chirurgeon : He fent again to defire the 
 Caravan Bajhi to follow with the Caravan , to- the place where he intended to 
 pitch his Tents , which was not far out of the way. We did not think to have 
 gone fo far that day, but he led us to the bed water in all the Defert. 1 he Princes 
 Tent being let up, he fent for my Chirurgeon, with whom I went along to know 
 what his pleafure was. He had upon his left Arm a Tetter , with a moft filthy 
 Scab as broad as a Crown piece and this went and came at certain times in the 
 year. He prefently ask'd the Chirurgeon whether he could cure him ? to whom 
 the Chirurgeon made anfwer , that the cure was not irapoflible , provided he knew 
 where to get fuch remedies as were convenient : For had he laid, he could have abso- 
 lutely cur'd him , the Emir would have carry'd him away with him , without 
 any farther Ceremony. Thereupon he would have giv'n the Chirurgeon five hun- 
 dred Crowns to have bought Medicines. But I made anfwer, that the cure would 
 not coft fo much , and that if the Chirurgeon could meet with proper Drugs , I 
 would lay out the Money my felf. The Emir content with that anfwer , fent one 
 of his chief People to Balfara, to come back with the Chirurgeon, when he had 
 bought his Medicines. He himfelf ftay'd three days in expectation of him; but 
 after we had pretended to feek for what we wanted , up and down the Town 
 ( for we enquired for fuch things as we knew were not to be had ) we fent him back 
 word that we could not find what we look \\ for, and defir'd his excufe , in regard 
 the attendance of the Chirurgeon would be of no ufe , where he had not proper 
 remedies ^ which was the only way we could think of, to get cleverly rid of 
 him. 
 
 The next days Journey after we had left the Arabian Prince , was through a 
 Country altogether uninhabited , but the day following , which was the fixty- 
 fifth and laft day of our being in the Defert, we met after fome time, with the 
 ruines of fome houfes on both fides the way which made us conjecture , that 
 fome great City had ftood formerly in that place. 
 
 At length we came to Balfara , which I fhall defcribe in another place. 
 
 While I ftay'd at Balfara , which was about three weeks , an AmbalTador from 
 the Great Mogul arriv'd there , who from Conflantinople went to Bagdat to congra- 
 tulate the Grand Signor for the Conqueft of that City which he had taken in fo 
 fhort a time. The Emperour prefented him with three (lately Horfes , and a little 
 Watch , the Cafe whereof was fet with Diamonds and Rubies. But the Ambai- 
 fador not knowing what belong'd to that little Engin , winding it up the wrong 
 way , broke the firing. Coming to Balfara he fent to the Carmelites to defire them 
 to mend his Watch; for he fear'd the lofs of his head, fhould he return to his 
 
 Mailer 
 
Chap. III. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 Mafter and not fhew him the Watch entire. It wat at their Houfe that I then lay 
 and therefore not knowing what to do with it, they defir'd me to fhew my skill : 
 Thereupon I put. on a new ftring. But the Ambaflador .when he underftood to 
 whom he was beholding , though it were but a trifle , profer'd me all the fervice 
 and kindnefs imaginable. Thereupon the Carmelites and Anauflin Fryars defir'd 
 me to requeft of the AmbafTador in their behalf, that he would obtain the Great 
 Turks protection for them , in cafe he took Balfara , that their Houies and 
 Churches might be preferv'd j which I did, and obtain'd by his means full pro- 
 tection from the Grand Viper. But they had no need of it , for the Turks did not 
 make any attempt upon Balfara , hearing that the Perfians were advancing \ befides 
 that the rainy feafon was at hand , which will not permit an Army to keep 
 the Field : So that had Bagdat held out eight days longer , the Grand Signor 
 would have been conftrain'd to have rais'd the Siege. 
 
 Having fpoken of the Arabian Horfes , I muft needs fay , that there are fome 
 that are valu'd at a very high rate. The Moguls Ambaflador gave for fome three , 
 four, and fix thoufand. Crowns, and for another he offer'd eight thoufand Crowns , 
 but the Horfe would not be fold under ten, and lb he left it. When he was got 
 home into the Indies, and had prefented the Mogul thoje Horfes which he had carry'd 
 along with him, being very lovely Creatures he told his Matter how he had ofler'd 
 eight thoufand Crowns for a Horfe more beautiful than any of them } but becaufe 
 the Owner would not let him go under ten , he left him. The King incens'd that 
 his Ambaflador had ftood for fo fmall a Sum , when it was for one of the greateft 
 Monarchs in the World , upbraided the poorneft of his Spirit , and banifh'd him 
 for ever from his prefence, into*a Province far diftant from the Court. Thereupon 
 the King wrote to tfyeEngliJh to buy him the Horfe, who accordingly did lb, and 
 brought him to Sitrat , where the Goverhbur re-paid them their Money. But the 
 Horfe dy'd at Urampour. 
 
 Nor muft I forget, that while I was at Balfara , twice there flew by fuch a pro- 
 digious number of Locufts , that a-far-ofF they appear'd like a Cloud, and darkn'd 
 the Air. They pafs by Balfara four or five times in the year , the Wind carrying 
 them into the Defert, where they alight, and mod certainly dye. Should they not 
 be thus wind-driy'n , there could nothing live upon the Earth in fome parts of 
 Chaldea. They fwarm all along the Per fan Gulf, and when the Veflels .come to 
 Ormus at the time of the year, there are little Shops where people fell Locufts fry'd 
 in Butter to thofe that love that fort of Diet. Once I had the curiofity to open 
 the Belly of a Locuft fix Inches long , and found therein feventeen little ones that 
 ftirr'd •, whence it is eafie to guefs how thofe Infecl:s come to be fo numerous , efpe- 
 cially in hot Countries. 
 
 There are feveral Barks that go from Ormus to furnifli both fides of the Per/tan 
 Gulf, where the people eat neither Bread nor Rice. I agreed with the Mafter of 
 one of thefe Barks , and made my agreement that the Bark fhould not be above 
 half laden , for generally they lade them too deep, and in foul weather they are 
 forc'd to throw half the Freight over-board, to fave the reft. 
 
 From Balfara to the mouth of the River Euphrates , it is reck'nd to be twenty 
 Leagues of Frefli-water. We ftaid feven whole days for a Wind , which proving 
 favourable, we came to 'Brander-ric, in forty-eight hours. This is the place where 
 you muft land, if you intend for Per fa , unlels you are bound for Ormus. TSrander-* 
 ric confifts only of five or fix little Fifhers Hutts \ which Hutts are only Hurdles fet 
 one againft another, and cover'd over , where they and their Families live. To the 
 fame place come Afles lad'n with Dates , which I was forc'd to hire for want of 
 Horfes. 
 
 We were fix days upon the Road from thence to Caaerom. This is a Mountainous 
 Country, where there is Wood enough} but you muft lodge in the Fields, for 
 there are no Inns upon the Road. The way is pleafant in fome places, along the 
 Banks of feveral Rivulets , and through verdant Groves ftor'd with great quantities 
 of Turtles. We kill'd a good many, which we eat, part with Pilaw, inftead of 
 Henns fome we rolled •, making Sticks to ferve for Spits. 
 
 Cazerom is a little City ill built, where there is but one Inn , and that none of the 
 moft inviting to Strangers neither. 
 
 From Ca^erom to Schiras it is five days journey. The Road lyes over very craggy 
 
 I Mountains 3 
 
The Persian Travels Book II. 
 
 Mountains, which had been impaffable, but for the Liberality of Ali-Couli-Kan, 
 Governour of Schiras. He made Ways where there were none before , and joyn'd 
 Mountains together by Bridges , in Countries which otherwife had been inacceflible. 
 In the midft of the Mountains is a wide gap or difcontinuance , from whence a 
 Plain extends it felf of about twenty Leagues in circuit. It is inhabited by Jews 
 only, who are .Silk-Weavers. In thefe Mountains you meet with Tents , where the 
 Chaldeans fojourn, that come for cool Air and Pafturage in the Summer. 
 
 Coming to Schiras , I took Horfe there for Jjpahan, where I arriv'd in nine days. 
 The Country over which you travel , between thefe two Cities , is part Plains , part 
 Mountains*, part wild, and part manur'd. Three days journey from Schiras you 
 pafs the Mountain of Mayen, a little City where there is nothing worthy obi'er- 
 vation. Two days journey from thence you enter upon the Plains of the Province 
 of Cufcuzar , where the King of Perfia keeps his Race-Horfes. The next day I 
 arriv'd at Yejdccas , where the bed Bread in Perfia is made. This is a little City 
 upon a Rock, wherein there is a very fail Inn: at the foot whereof runs a little 
 River that glides into the Valley, wherein grows that excellent Corn which is utter'd 
 in Bread from that City. 
 
 In three days I went from Yefdecas to Ifpahan. This was the firft Road from 
 Aleppo to Ijpahan. 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Of the ^oad from Aleppo to Ifpahan , through Mefbpotamia 
 and Aflyria, leh'ich I travel' d in my third Voyage to the In- 
 dies. 
 
 I Departed from Paris in my third Voyage to the Indies upon the fixth of 
 December 1643, and went to Ligern , where I found the Dutch Fleet ready 
 to fet Sail for the Levant. The VefTel wherein I embark'd feeming rather a 
 Man-of-War than a Merchant-Man. We pafs'd through the Channel of 
 Mejfma , and lay there at an Anchor four days before the City. From thence paf- 
 fing by the Morea , we enter'd into the Archipelago , where the Fleet parted , ac- 
 cording as every Ship was bound. Our Ship fayl'd direftly for the Port of Alexan- 
 dretta , but though the Wind were favourable , we were ftop'd for fome time by 
 a Pirate that met with us off the Eaftern Point of Candy. We cndeavour'd to have 
 got clear of him ; but the Pirate gaining upon us, we made ready. Thereupon the 
 Pirate gave us three Broad-fides , that went over the Ship without doing us any 
 harm : which we anfwer'd by as many from our Ship , the firft whereof brought his 
 Fore-maft by the Board and the third Shot went through the Fore-caftle and kill'd 
 him fome Men , as far as we could difcern. At that very inftant one of our Mari- 
 ners cry'd out from the Top-maft-head , <tA Sail from the South. Thereupon the 
 Pirate left us, and made Sail after her : and we, glad of fuch an efcape , purfu'd our 
 Voyage to Alexandretta , where we happily arriv'd*, from whence I took Horfe for 
 Aleppo, as I have already defcrib'd. 
 
 The fixth of March I departed from Aleppo in the company of two Capuchin 
 Friars , Father Raphael and Father Yves , and a Venetian whofe name was Dominica 
 de Sanctis. 
 
 From Aleppo to Sir, where you crofs the Euphrates, it is four days journey for the 
 Horfc-Caravan. The Country is well wooded, and well manur'd. 
 
 The feventh of March the great Rains that fell hinder'd us from getting to the 
 ufual Stage , fo that we could not gain Telbechar, another Town, where there is no 
 Inn : which conftrain'd us to ftop a League on this fide , and to go to a Cave that 
 was able to contain three hundred Horfe. This is a Cave where the Bedouins or 
 Feeders of Cattel thereabouts oft retire , who live after the manner of the Arabs, 
 either in Rocks or in poor Hutts. The Cave has been hollow'd from time to time, 
 there being feveral Niches in it like little Chambess. Our Caravan-Bajlri fearing 
 
 fome 
 
Chap.IV. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 fome Ambufcade , rode thither before to view the place, bnt finding it empty anc^ 
 free, we refted there that night, and the next night.came to lye at Me zara , which 
 is only afmall Village without an Inn • Neither was there any thing remarkable upon 
 that Road. Only that near the Cave , in the Mountain , there is very good Water : 
 And formerly upon the Mountain flood a Caftle, of which force ruines are ftill re- 
 maining. From the top of the Mountain there is a fair Profpeft as far as you can fee , 
 over very fair Plains on every fide , and in feveral places very good Land , water'd 
 by divers Channels which are brought from the River Euphrates. All the Rivolets 
 alio that you crofs fcomAleppo to Bir come from the fame River. 
 
 The fourth day after we parted from Aleppo , being the ninth of March , we 
 came to the banks of Euphrates. Bir is on the other fide of the River j and be- 
 caufe that fometimes the Goods cannot be unladen all in a day ; there is a fair and 
 large Inn, to defend the Merchants from the Bedouins , which would elle difturb 
 and rob them , were not they and their Goods in that manner fecur'd. 
 
 You crofs the Euphrates in large Ferry Boats , and as loon as you are got over the 
 other fide of the River, the Cuftomer and his Officers comes and tells the Bales, 
 and writes down the names of the Merchants to whom they belong. The Caravan 
 does not lye in the Town , which is built like an Amphitheatre upon the brow of a 
 very craggy Mountain , but paffes forward over a fcurvy Road to an Inn upon the 
 top of the Mountain. Near the Inn there are feveral Chambers cut out of the Rock, 
 where they that cannot get room in the Inn are fore'd to lye. That Evening the 
 Cuftom-Oificer comes to receive his duties , being two Piafters upon every load of 
 Goods , whether upon Horfe or Mule , though the Mules carry more than the 
 Horfes and half a Piafler for every Beaft that carries Provifions. But for Saddle 
 Horfes or Mules there is nothing demanded. 
 
 The Bir , or Berygeon , as the Natives call it , is a large City for an Eaftern City , 
 fcituated upon the brow of a Hill. Below upon the River Hands a Caftle that de- 
 clares its Antiquity, it is half as long as the City , but narrow, and without any 
 other Fortification , laving only a Tower that fcours the River, in which there are 
 eight or nine pitiful Culverins. In the higheft part of the Town ftands another Caftle 
 where the Governour refides, who is an Aga, whom fome call a BaJIja, having un- 
 der him two hundred Janizaries , and four hundred Spaht's. The City is ill built > 
 as are the tnoft part of the Cities of Turkie : But there are an extraordinary plenty 
 of all things , excellent Bread , good Wine , and great ftore of the beft fort of 
 Fifh. 
 
 The tenth day after we had travel'd elev'n hours in the firft Lands of Mefopo- 
 tamia, that lyes between the two Rivers Euplrrates and Tigre , which at prefent they 
 call Diarbek^, we came in the evening to Sharmely. This is a very good Town, 
 with a fair Inn , and Baths round about it. About twice Mufquet Shot from 
 thence , ftands a Mountain alone by it felf , like Montmartre near Paris : 
 Round about it are Plains , and at the top of it ftands a Fortrefs , with a Garrifon 
 of two hundred Spahfs , by reafon that the Arabs fometimes crofs Euphrates , 
 and make incurfions upon that fide. In the year 1 631, the Grand Viz.ier retur- 
 ning from Bagdat , where he had loft the greateft part of the Grand Signer's Army , 
 not being able to take the City } fearing thelofsof his head if he return'd to Con- 
 flantinople , and knowing himfelf to be in great efteem among the Souldiers, re- 
 lolv'd to' quarter himfelf upon this Mountain , and to ereel: a Fortrefs to fecure 
 himfelf from the tempeft that threaten'd him. No doubt but if he could have 
 brought about his defign , he might have made himfelf Mafter of all Mesopotamia , 
 and would have put the Grand Sig?jor to a great deal of trouble. For if you in- 
 tend for Aleppo , whither it be from Tauris, Mojfal, or Bagdat, unlefs you travel tho- 
 rough theDefert, you muft pals through Sharmely, under the command of this 
 Fortrefs, for Provifion and Waters fake. The work was gone lo far forward , 
 that there was a good defence rais'd , and the Vizier had already cnclos'd all the 
 Mountain together with the Inn , with a Wall almoft twenty foot thick, and three 
 fathom high , when he was ftrangl'd by thofe in whom he moft confided , the Grand 
 Stgnor having gain'd them either by threats or by rewards. 
 
 The eleventh , after a Journey of ten hours we came to Onrfa , where the Cara- 
 van ufually ftays eight or ten days-, for here it is that they live that hire the Horfes 
 and the Mules j who have always fome bufinefs in this place. We lay at an Inn 
 
 } 2 three 
 
 1 
 
68 The Persian Travels Book II. 
 
 three or four hundred paces diftant from the City toward the North. When the 
 Inn is full, the reft retire into the Grotto's which are near at hand, and are very 
 good quarters. Here the Toll-gatherer prefently comes and counts the Bales 
 without op'ning them. They that carry any Sacks muft pay for half a Load , if 
 not , he op'ns the Sack to fee if there be any Merchandise therein , for then the 
 Merchant muft pay the whole duty. 
 
 Our fa is the Capital City of Mefopotamia , built as they fay , in the fame place 
 where Abraham liv'd , and where ftood the ancient Edeffa , where the people of the 
 Country report , that King Abagarm generally kept his Court. There are ftill to 
 be feen the ruines of a Caftle , from whence they add , that the fame King fent to 
 CHRIST for his Picture, and ofFer'd him his Kingdom and his people to defend 
 him againft the Jews , whom he underftood to be his Enemies. The Chronicles of' 
 the Armenians report , that Abagarm was their Country-man , and that in his Reign 
 they began to be Chriftians , and to be Baptiz'd by the hands of an Apoftle , whom 
 CHR IS T fent to that Prince after his Refurreftion. Neither is this Caftle yet fo 
 far ruin'd , but that there is ftill to be feen a fpacious Hall , and three or four hand- 
 fom Rooms with fomc relicks of Mofaick work. I was curious to fee what ever 
 was remarkable in this City. And firft they led me to a large Fountain which re- 
 fembles a Fi(h-pond , the Spring whereof is under the Foundations of the principal 
 Afofyuee, which was built in the honour of Abraham. The Chriftians of the Coun- 
 try lay , that it was in that place where he pray'd , before he went about to Sacri- 
 fice his Son Ifaac , and that two Springs of Water arofe from the two places where 
 he refted his knees , which now feed the large Fountain I have made mention of. 
 It ispav'd with Free-ftone, and fo full of fi(h,thatif you throw them in a little Bread, 
 they will follow you from place to place as you walk by the fide of the Pond. There 
 is no mcdling with them^ for the Turks have a great veneration for thofeFUh which 
 they call Abrahams Fifh. Befidcs that , the place about the Fountain where the 
 water wid'ns it felf to water all the City , is cover'd with very fair Carpets , for 
 about twenty paces in bredth. This Fountain at length falls into a little River that 
 runs by the Walls. As for the Grotto where the two Springs rife , there is no going 
 into it before you have pull'd off your Shooes , and it is a great favour for a Chriftian 
 to fee it fuch a favour as coft me fix Piafters. I alfo faw the Church , under the 
 portal whereof , they fay , St. Alexis liv'd feventeen years a private life. It ftands 
 in the middle of a Church-yard , in the higheft part of the Town , in the poffeflion 
 of the Armenians. But their principal Church is about a quarter of an hours 
 walking from the City , built by St. Ephren , who is there buried. The Monaftery 
 ftands yet entire , enclos'd with fair Walls. In the Church I faw a large Bible in 
 Armenian Characters. The Sepulchre of St. Ephren is in a Cave at the foot of the 
 Mountain , to which there alfo belongs a Chappel , where they keep three or four 
 Lamps continually burning. There are other Grotto's up and down the Mountain , 
 where are to be feen very ancient Sepulchers of the Chriftians. The City of Ourfa 
 is feated in a good foil , very well manur'd , which extends it felf out of fight to- 
 ward the Eaft. There are feveral pleafant Gardens near the walls , water'd by 
 little Channels brought thither by Art. The foil produces good Wine , fo that 
 a man may live as well at Ourfa, as in any part of Turkie. While I ftay'd there, 
 I kill'd abundance of Feldfares in thofe Gardens ; and indeed there is great ftore of 
 wild Fowl all the Country over. The Walls of the City are of Freeftone , with 
 Battlements and Towers but within, the houfes are fmall, ill built , and ruinous : 
 And there are feveral void fpaces in the City , which makes Ourfa to look rather 
 like a Defert than a Metropolis. The City is Govern'd by a Bajha , who has under 
 him a hundred and fifty Janizaries , and fix hundred Spahi's , (landing more in need 
 of Cavalry than Infantry , by reafon of the Incurfions of the Arabians , efpecially 
 in Harveft time. In (hort , Ourfa is the place were they drefs fuch great quanti- 
 ties of Cordovan Skias , by reafon of the waters particular to the Country, which 
 give them that peculiar beauty. The Yellow Skins are dreft at Ourfa , the Blew 
 at Tocat, and the red Rat Diarbequir. 
 
 The twentieth of March , we fet out of Ourfa , and after a Journey of fix hours , 
 we lay at a pittiful Village where the Inn was faPnall to decay. There is a Foun- 
 tain of excellent water by it , which is all the convenience of the place , for there 
 is no Provifion to be had. 
 
 The 
 
Chap. IV. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 The twenty-firft we travel'd nine hours, and came to lye near feveral Caverns 
 which are very deep ; at the entry whereof there are little Rooms , which are fup- 
 pos'd to be the places where the People of the Country liv'd that fed their Cattel 
 thereabouts. There is alfo Rain-Water to be had in fome of the Concavities of the 
 Rock. Half this days journey you mull pafs over Rocks, where it is almoft impof- 
 fible , and very dangerous to keep your Horfes back. 
 
 The twenty-fecond, having travel'd eleven hours, we lodg'd near a Cavern, having 
 forded a River that runs at the foot of it. There are two great Grotto's on each 
 fide , where Travellers take up their Quarters , and whither the Natives of the 
 Country bring Provifions both for Horfe and Man. The Toll-gatherers , coming 
 from a Fort about three Leagues diftant from theie Caverns, here exatt two Piafters 
 and a half for every Horfe and Mules Load ; and -fearch your Sacks, to fee if there be 
 no Merchantable Goods therein. About half the way of this days journey you meet 
 with a City quite deferted by the Inhabitants ; and about an hours march after that, 
 with Tombs of Stone, in the middle whereof ftandsa Crofs, with Armenian Cha- 
 racters. 
 
 The twenty-third we travel'd elev'n hours, and lay at Dadacardin. This appears 
 to have been a great Town, but is all ruin'd : nor is there any thing remaining but 
 a long Stone-Bridge very well built , under which runs a River that is very broad 
 when it overflows. The People of the Country have no other Habitations than the 
 Hollows of Rocks-, yet they bring to the Travellers Hens, Butter, Cheefe, and other 
 Provifions which they fell very cheap. 
 
 The twenty-fourth we travel'd nine hours , and lay at a place call'd Cara, built 
 upon a Hill. The Caravan lay at the Inn \ but the two Capuchins and I lay at a 
 private Chriftian's Houfe , who carry'd us to the Church , where was then the Ver- 
 tabet or Bilhop of Merdin. It was a pitiful poor Church, where they had nothing 
 but two Planks fupported with four Sticks inftead of an Altar. They dare not leave 
 any Furniture in it •, but as foon as the Prieft has faid Service, he muft have a care 
 to take away every thing , as well the Planks as the Covering of the Altar , which 
 was only a Painted Cloth : For the Turks that travel that way, if it be foul weather, 
 will break open the Door , put their Horfes there , burn the Altar , and take away 
 whatever they find. 
 
 In the Village where we lay , there was a Pond , the fides whereof were fur- 
 rounded with fair Free-ftones, which were fetch'd from the Chriftian Churches, and 
 the Tombs of the Chriftians thereabouts. Among the reft , there was one very 
 large Stone , with an Epitaph upon it in large Latin Letters % whereby we knew it 
 to be the Tomb-ftone of a Norman Gentleman , who had been a Captain of Foot. 
 The Bilhop inform'd us, that it is recorded in the Armenian Stories, that the French 
 were a long time in this Country, at what time the Chriftians were Mailers of Syria. 
 This Country is all a large Plain, about twenty Leagues in length which might be 
 well manur'd , and make the Inhabitants rich , did not the Tyranny of the Turks, 
 and the Incurfions of the Arabs reduce them to the utmoft degree of Poverty. 
 
 The twenty-fifth , after we had travel'd eight hours , we lay at a Village call'd 
 Coufafar, where there was no Inn. There were formerly three great Monafteries, 
 a quarter of a League one from the other. The Turks have ruin'd two, all but the 
 Steeples of the Churches that belong'd to them. The third, which ftands all entire, 
 and is the faireft Pile of Building, ferves for a Mofcjuee. They have made Shops 
 round about the Cloyfters , in the middle of which is a fair Spring of Water. 
 
 The twenty-feventh we lay ftill at Coufafar, being the place where you muft pay 
 the Cuftoms of Diarbequir, which is not above two days journey off, amounting to 
 two Piafters and a fourth part, for every Load of Merchants Goods. 
 
 Merdin is not above two Leagues from Coufafar. This is a little City feated upon 
 a Mountain , with good Walls , and a fair Fountain replenilh'd from the Caftle • 
 which ftands upon the North-fide, in a place yet higher, that commands the City 5, 
 where there lives a Bajba , who has under him two hundred Spahfs , and four hun- 
 dred Janizaries. Merdin is the place where was born the Lady Maani Gioerida, 
 the firft Wife of Pietro de la Valle , fo well known for his famous Travels. 
 
 As for Coufafar, which is a large Village , it is inhabited for the moft part by Ar- 
 menian Chriftians and Neftorians. The Armenians perform Divine Service in their 
 own Language ; the Neftorians in the Chalda'ic. The latter fhew'd me two Bibles 
 
 in 
 
The Persian Travels Book 11. 
 
 in a large Volume, in the lame Language, writt'n in Vellum, all the Capital Letters 
 being in Gold and Azure. They feem'd to be very old and one of their Priefts 
 told me, that it is 937 years ago fince one of them was writt'n 3 the other not 
 above 374fince. When Service is done,they put them in a Cheft,and hide them under 
 Ground. I would have giv'n 200 Piafiers for the oldeft, but they durft not fell it, 
 in regard it belong'd to the Church, and was not at their difpofal. 
 
 The twenty-feventh , after we had travel'd nine hours, we arriv'd at Karafara, 
 which had been formerly a great Town , and no doubt inhabited by Chriftians as 1 
 appears by feven or eight Churches half ruin'd , though the Steeples are little the 
 worfe. They ftand at a good diftance one from the other-, and upon the North-fide 
 of one of thofe Churches there is a Gallery, at the end whereof, through a little 
 Door you defcend about a hundred Steps , every Step being ten Inches thick. When 
 you come under the Church , you meet with a larger and bigger Vault * fupported 
 with Pillars. The Building is fo contriv'd , that there is more light below than in 
 that above , but of late years the Earth has ftop'd up leveral Windows. The great 
 Altar is in the Rock *, on the right fide whereof is a Room, which receives the light 
 from f'everal Windows contriv'd in the Rock. Over the Gate of the Church was 
 a great Free-ftone , wherein were certain Letters that I could not read. On the 
 North-fide of the lame Church under Ground are to be feen two great Citterns, each 
 four hundred and fifty Paces long with two great Arches , fuftain'd with leveral 
 Pillars. Every year they fill them with the Water that falls from the next Mountain, 
 and makes a kind of a River. A quarter of a League from the Church, you defcend the 
 Mountain for above a hundred Paces together among the Rocks , on each fide 
 whereof are Rooms cut out of the Rock. Upon every Door there is a Crofs , and 
 in every Room as it were a Bench , and a Table , with a little place about the length 
 of a Man , like a Bedfted, all cut out of the Rock. At the bottom of the Rock is 
 a Hall , round about the Wall whereof is a Bench to fit on. The Roof is all plain, 
 without any Arch j in the middle whereof there is a Hole to the top of the Moun- 
 tain : but in regard it gives no light, 'tis very probable 'twas only made to let out 
 the Smoak when they dreft their Meat •, or elfe to let in the frefh Air , as I have 
 feen in many Villages upon the Perfian Gulf. Upon the higheft of thofe Mountains 
 (lands a paltry Village , where they buy their Victuals. But before the Caravan 
 arrives , certain Merchants ride before to inform themfelves from the Herdfmen, 
 whether they know of any Thieves in the Grotto's, that often hide themfelves there 
 m expectation of Prey. 
 
 In the year 1638, Sultan Amur at going to befiege Babylon , march'd this very way, 
 as well to fee thefe Ruines , as to give order for the demolifhing a Fort that flood 
 not above two Leagues off of Karafera, which the Thieves of the Country made 
 their place of retreat. He alfo at the fame time caus'd the Road to be clear'd for 
 four days journey, by ord'ring the Stones to be pickt up and laid in heaps, all along 
 the Road. He alfo built a Bridge over the River. And indeed , that March of 
 the Grand Signor was very advantageous to all Travellers that pafs this way. 
 
 The twenty-eighth we travel'd eight hours, and came to Nejbin, anciently Ni- 
 Jibis. Two or three hours travel on this fide, near the Road, is a kind of Hermitage, 
 being a fmall Room enclos'd with Walls, the Door whereof is fo low, that a Man 
 muft creep upon his Belly to get in. Three or four Jews went and perform'd their 
 Devotions at this Hermitage , believing it to be the place where the Prophet Elijha 
 was buried. 
 
 The Country from Coujafar to Nejbin is a large Plain , where for the firfl: davs 
 journey you fhall fee no other green Herb upon the Ground but only Pimpernel 
 the Roots whereof are fo large, that there are fome a Foot and a half in diameter. 
 The next day, the Fields are cover'd with a large thick Leaf, the Root whereof is 
 bulbous , and as big as an Egg. There are alfo great ftore of yellow , red , and 
 violet Flowers, Tulip* of feveral colours, Emonies, and fingle Daffadillies. But 
 in general Mesopotamia is a very barren Country, and there are very few places that 
 can be better'd by Art or Induftry. 
 
 Nejbin is only the Shadow of the ancient Nifibu, being now only a large Village 5 
 the Inhabitants whereof are Chriftians , both Armenians and Nejiorians. Our Ca- 
 ravan lodg'd a little beyond , in a Church-yard adjoyning to one of the Armenian 
 Churches. The next day, hearing people fing , I went to the Church with the two 
 
 Cipucbins, 
 
Chap. IV. of Monfieur Tavernier, 
 
 Capuchins, where I faw an Armenian Bifhop, with his Miter, and a wooden Crofier 
 accompany'd with feveral Pricfts and a good Congregation. When Service was 
 done , after feme few Compliments between us , he Jed us down under the Church 
 into a Chappel , where he fhew'd us the Sepulcher of St. James Bifhop of Nifibis. 
 In the Church-yard is a Stone about a Foot thick, and fix high-, upon which were 
 laid feveral Candles of Wax and Tallow, which the Poor Offer in their Neceffities, 
 but efpecially in their Sickneffes. They believe that Stone to have been the Pedeftal 
 for the Statue of fome Saint, which the Tufas have defae'd : fo that they give the 
 fame Honour to the Pedeftal , as they would have giv'n to the Statue. There are 
 alfo fome Roman Characters to be leen , but half worn out , and fpaces brok'n off 
 in fome parts : fo that I could not learn, in Honour of whom that Statue was erected. 
 Half a League from Nijbin runs a River, which you crofs , over a Stone-Bridge. In 
 the way to the River are feveral pieces of Wall, with an Arch , which made me con- 
 jecture, that formerly the City extended as far as the River. 
 
 Twice Musket-fhot from the River, you meet with a Stone , half buried , upon 
 which are written certain Latin Words ^ whereby it appears that it was the Tomb- 
 ftone of the General of an Army that was a French-man : but I could not read his 
 Name, which time had defae'd. The fame Bifhop inform'd us, that formerly the 
 Moors having befieg'd the City, there came fuch a prodigious company of ftrange 
 Flyes , and did fo torment both Men and Horfes , that they were fore'd to raife 
 the Siege. You mult pay the fame Toll at Nijbin as in other places , that is , two 
 Piafiers and a half, for every Mule or Horfes Load. We lay there three days toge- 
 ther , to furnifh our felves with Provifions 'till we came to Moujful, which is five days 
 journey from Nijbin ; the Country between being altogether defert and uninha- 
 bited. There is no Water to be found but in two places, and that riot very good 
 neither - 0 near to which you fhall fee fome few Herdfmen grazing their Cattel. 
 
 The firft of April we departed from Nijbin ; and after we had travel'd eleven 
 hours , we lay near to a River , whither certain Shepherds brought us Hens to 
 fell. 
 
 The fecond we travel'd ten hours , and lay at a paltry Town , where we met 
 with nothing to eat. 
 
 The third we travel'd thirteen hours , and lodg'd by a pitiful Fountain, the Water 
 whereof was hardly good enough for our Horfes. 
 
 The fourth we travel'd ten hours, and came to lodge by the Bank of a little River, 
 near to which appear'd the Ruines of a Bridge and a Caftle. 
 
 The fifth we travel'd eleven hours , to reach Moujful, which is not far from the 
 ancient Niniveh. 
 
 Moujful is a City that makes a great fhew without, the Walls being of Free-ftone * 
 but within it is almoft all ruin'd , having only two blind Market-places , with a 
 little Caftle upon the Tigris, where the Bajlja lives. In a word , there is nothing 
 worth a Man's fight in Moujful, the place being only confiderable for the great 
 concourfe of Merchants^ efpecially the Arabians and Curds , which are the Inha- 
 bitants of the ancient Ajfyria , now call'd Curdijian , where there grows great plenty 
 of Galls, and for which there is a great Trade. There are in it four forts of 
 Chriftians, Cjreeks, Armenians , Nejiorians , and Maronites. The Capuchins had a 
 pretty Dwelling upon the Tigris; but the Bajha laying a Fine upon them , becaufe 
 they went about a little to enlarge it, they were fore'd to quit it. The City is 
 govern'd by aBajlia, that has under him, part Janizaries, part Spain's, about three 
 thoufand Men. 
 
 There are only two fcurvy Inns in Moujful , which being full when we came , I 
 caus'd my Tent to be fet up at the Meydan, or great Market-place. 
 
 Now to fay lbmething in general of the difference of the two Rivers , Tigris and 
 Euphrates, in reference to their Courfe and Waters : I obferv'd that the Water of 
 Euphrates appear'd fomewhat red and that the Stream was not fo fwift as that of 
 Tigris, which feem'd to be whitifh, like the Loire. As for its Courfe, Euphrates 
 runs a far longer way than Tigris. But now let us crofs the Tigris , over a Bridge 
 of Boats , to view the fad Ruines of a City that has made fuch a noife in the World ; 
 though there be now fcarce any appearance of its ancient fplendour. 
 
 Niniveh was built upon the left Shoar of the Tigris, upon AJfyria-Cide, being now- 
 only a heap of Rubbifh extending almoft a League along the River. There are 
 
 abundance 
 
The Persian Travels Book II. 
 
 abundance of Vaults and Caverns uninhabited ^ nor could a man well conjecture 
 whether they were the ancient Habitations of the people , or whether any houfes 
 had been built upon them in former times-, for mod of the houfes in Turkic are like 
 Cellars, or elfe but one Story high. Half a League from Tigris {lands a little Hill 
 encompas'd with Houfes , on the top whereof is built a Mofyue'e. The people of 
 the Country fay 'twas the place where Jonas was bury'd ^ and for that place they 
 have fo great a veneration , that no Chriftians are fuffer'd to enter into it , but pri- 
 vately , and for Money. By that means I got in with two Capuchin Fryars *, 
 but we were forc'd to put off our Shooes firft. In the middle of the Mofyue'e ftood 
 a Sepulchre , cover'd with a Perfian Carpet of Silk and Silver , and at the four cor- 
 ners, great Copper Candlefticks with Wax Tapers, befides feveral Lamps and 
 Oftridge-Shells that hung down from the Roof. We law a great number of Moores 
 Without , and within fat two Dervt's reading the Alcoran. 
 
 About a Musket-Shot from Moujfal toward the North-Eaft , ftands a great Ruin'd 
 Monaftery, enclos'd with high Walls, the greateft part whereof is ftiU to be 
 feen. 
 
 We ftay'd ten days at Moujful , and having provided all things ready for the reft 
 of our Journey , we fet forward for Ifpahan. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 ft 
 
 A Continuation of the ^oad from Nineveh to Ifpahan : Together 
 Ti?ith the Story of an Ambaffador , call'd Dominico de Santis. 
 
 HAving pafs'd the Tigris , we ftay'd three quarters of an hours Journey 
 from Nineveh for fome Merchants that were to go along with the Cara- 
 van. The way which we took was not the ufual Road to Terfia; but 
 it was a way wherein there were lefs Duties to be paid-, and befides, it 
 was a fhort cut, the Caravan making but fifty-eight days Journey between Aleppo 
 and Ifpahan. From the very banks of the River to the place where we Lodg'd that 
 Evening , we faw nothing but continu'd Ruines , which makes me believe, it was the 
 place where the ancient Nineveh ftood. 
 
 We ftay'd two days near the^ Mofyitee , where according to the tradition of the 
 Turkl, Jonas was bury'd , and made choice of a Curd, or Ajfyrian for our Car a~ 
 van-TZafbi , though the people are generally Thieves , and muft be carefully look'd 
 after. But it was a piece of Policy, becaufe we iwere to crofs the ancient tAffyria y 
 now call'd Curdifian , the Language of which Country is a particular Speech. 
 
 In the two firft days Journey we crofs'd two fmall Rivers that fall from the Moun- 
 tains , and empty themfelves into Tigrit. Our firft Journey was through a plain 
 Country all along by the fide of a little River •, and the fecond Evening we lodg'd 
 by the fide of a great River that falls from the Mountains toward the North , and 
 running to the South, difcharges it felf into Tigris. It is call'd Bohrns , being a very 
 rapid Stream, full of Fifh , but more efpecially excellent Trouts. The Caravan was 
 two days parting that River , by reafon there were no Boats. For the people arc 
 forc'd to tye long Perches four or five together one upon another , which the Natives 
 call a Kilet. They make it four-fquare, and put underneath it about a hundred 
 Goat-Skins full of wind , to the end the Kilet may not touch the water. Befides > 
 the Merchant muft be careful to fpread good ftore of thick Felts over the Kile t , of 
 which he muft be provided to keep off the Water, leaft the Bales that fink the Kilet 
 fhould take wet. At the four corners are four Perches that ferve for Oars , though 
 they avail but little againft tjie force of the Tide ; fo that you muft be forc'd to hale 
 the Kilet four or five hundred Paces a' this fide up the River, and then row down 
 the Stream to the place where you intend to Land the Goods. When the Goods are 
 Landed , the men are forc'd again to draw the Kilet by main ftrength out of the 
 water, to take away the Goat-Skins which are then to be lad'n upon the Mules appoin- 
 ted to carry them. As for the Horfcs , Mules, andAfTes, as well thofe that carri'd 
 
 the 
 
_ — I I I I 1 
 
 Chap. V. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 73 
 
 the Goods , as thofe upon which the Men ride $ fo loon as the Herdf-men thereabout 
 fee a Caravan coming, they flock to the River-fide. Thofe people that wear nothing 
 but a courfe piece of Linnen or a Goat-skin to cover their nakednefs , take off their 
 Cloaths and wind them about their Heads, like a Turbant. Then every one tyes 
 a Goat-skin blow'd up under his Stomach and then two or three of the moft expert 
 mounting the fame number of the beft Horfes, which are bridl'd, put themfelves 
 firft into the Water, while others follow them fwimming, and drive the Horfes 
 before them} holding the Beaft by the Tayl with one Hand, and lwitching him 
 with the other. If they find any Horfe or Afs that is too weak, they tye a Goat- 
 skin under his Belly to help him. Confidering which difficulties, it cannot take 
 up lefs time than I have mentioned to get over a Caravan of five or fix hundred 
 Horfes. 
 
 The Caravan being thus got over, for two or three days has but a very bad Road. 
 The firft days journey, the Horfes were continually in the Water up to the mid-leg 
 and the fecond, and part of the third we travePd through a very defert Country, 
 where we met with very little food for our Horfes, and only a few Brakes to boy I 
 our Rice. Having got over this bad way , we came to a River call'd the great Zarbe , 
 over which we pais'd upon a Stone-Bridge of nine Arches. They report that this 
 Bridge was built by Alexander the Great,in his March againft Darius. A quarter of a 
 League to the South-Eaft, two Rivers meet, which empty themfelves into Tigris. Lea- 
 ving the Bridge, we came to a Town call'd Sheraz.onl, built upon a rifing Ground, upon 
 three Redoubts. There refides a Bafha, who muft be brib'd with a froall Prefent to 
 let the Caravan pafs ^ we lay by the Banks of a River, and ftaid there two days. 
 From thence we travel'd one days journey over dry Mountains , not finding any 
 Water. But the next day we came into a pleafant Plain , ftor'd with Fruit-trees. 
 This was the Plain of Arbele , where Alexander defeated Darius ; containing about 
 fifteen Leagues in all. It is water'd with feveral Rivulets , and in the middle of 
 the Mountain rifes a little Hill about half a League in circuit. It is all over cover'd 
 with the faireft Oaks that ever were feen j and on the top are the Ruines of a Caftle, 
 that i'eems to have been a fumptuous Structure. The Country-people fay that 
 Daritts ftaid there while his Captains gave Battel to Alexander. Three Leagues 
 from thence , near a great Mountain toward the North , are to be feen the Ruines 
 of another Caftle and feveral Houfes * where they add , that Darius fecur'd fome 
 of his Wives when he loft the Battel. This Caftle is feated in a moft lovely Profpett. 
 At the foot of the Mountain rifes a Spring i which a quarter of a League off fwells 
 into a River that bears good big Boats. It runs winding about the Mountains to 
 the Southward ; fo that two days journey from the Hill , you crofs it near a Town 
 call'd Sherazoul, over a fair Stone-Bridge of nine Arches, whereof the Great Sh& 
 Abas caus'd three to be brok'n down , after he had tak'n Bagdat. 
 
 This City of Sheraz.oul is built after another manner than any other of the Cities 
 in thofe parts , being all cut out of a fteep Rock for a quarter of a League together \ 
 fo that you muft go up to the Houfes by Stairs of fifteen , or twenty fteps , fome- 
 times more, fometimes lefs, according to the fituation of the place. The people 
 have no other Doors to their Houfes than only a thin round Stone, like a Mill-ftone, 
 which they will roll away when they go in or out , the fides of the Wall being fo cut 
 as to receive the Stone like a Cafe , being level with the Rock. 
 
 The tops of their Houfes are like Niches in the Mountain , where the Inhabi- 
 tants have contriv'd Caves to keep their Cattel in : So that we judg'd it to be built 
 for a place of fafety to fecure the Inhabitants from the Incurfions of the Arabians 
 and Bedouins of Mesopotamia. 
 
 We came to Sberaz.oul upon Eafier-Eve, and ftaid there three days to refrefh our 
 felves, after a Lent which we had kept very fparingly. Here I found certain 
 Springs that rofe up in large Bubbles , which after I had mix'd with two GlafTes of 
 Wine and drank up, I found to have a Purgative quality, having a kind of Mineral 
 taft. Thefe Springs boyl up near the fide of a River call'd <Jkltun-fou, or, The 
 River of q 0 ld y that falls into the River Tigris, three days journey on this fide 
 Bagdat. 
 
 The next day we lay at a pitiful Town , upon the Frontiers of Turkic and 
 Terfia. \ , 
 
 The next day, being the fifth after we fet out from Nimveh, we pafs'd over 
 
 K feveral 
 
The Persian Travels Book II 
 
 feveral Fenns and hot Waters * that part the two Empires. Entring thus into 
 Perfia, we met with a high Mountain cover'd with fair Oaks , which bear the Gail- 
 Nuts, fo high , that the Caravan was fome hours ere it could get to the top. As 
 we afcended , but efpccially when we were up, we heard feveral Muskets go off. 
 At firft we thought the people had been hunting the wild Boars or Stags , of which 
 the Mountains are full : but the report of the Guns being too loud and too thick 
 for Hunters, we ftood upon our guard - , and I believe we fhould have mended 
 our paces, had we known what was intended us. Befides, I remember'd that the 
 Country-people would not fell any thing but for Powder and Bullet , which the 
 Caravan-Bajhi advis'd me not to let them have , for fear they fhould make ufe of it 
 againft our felves. From the Mountain we defcended into a fertil Plain , water'd 
 with feveral Rivers-, and night approaching, we fet up our Tents, not fearing any 
 thing, becaule we were in the Dominions of the king of Perfia, where there is 
 fo much fecurity in travelling. After that we lent our Servants to the Tents of 
 the Country-men , but they brought us nothing but Bread made of Acorns , than 
 which the poor people thereabouts eat no other. This Acorn is about the bignefs of 
 Our Nuts } and once I met with a Branch that had thirty Acorns, and twenty-three 
 Gall-Nuts , all at one time growing upon it. 
 
 The Province which we travel'd through then , compos'd the greateft part of 
 the ancient Affyna. But now to come to the Story of Dominico de Santis the Ve- 
 netian. He had Letters of Credence from the Pope, the Emperour, the King of 
 Poland) and the Republick of Venice , to the King of Perfia • and he went m the 
 Caravan through the Grand Signo/s Territories, never difcovering himfelf who 
 he was \ but coming into Perfia, he took upon him without fear the Title of Ambaffa- 
 dor from the Commonwealth of Venice. 
 
 From the Plain where we lodg'd , it is two days journey to a good big Town , to 
 which belongs a Fortrefs , where the Governour of the Province has a Lieutenant, 
 with about two thoufand Horfe under his Command. The Fortrefs is upon the 
 fight hand toward the South , after three hours riding upon the High-way. To 
 this Lieutenant , the Caravan-Bajhi was according to duty bound to give notice of 
 the Arrival of the Caravan . and an account of the Persons and their Merchandize. 
 This Venetian was a perfon ill fitted for the quality of an Ambaffidor , being a 
 perfon of no Parts', which made me wonder that fuch great ' Princes , and fo wife 
 a Commonwealth fhould fend fuch a perfon upon a Concern of that importance. 
 For the Grand Signor then affailing Candy , he was fent to excite the King of Perfia 
 to engage him in a War againft the Titrk^, thereby to keep off the Storm that 
 threaten'd Chriftendom. Thereupon I told the Ambaffador, that it was neceffary 
 for him to give the Commander of the Fort firft notice of his coming, to the end 
 he might give advice thereof to Solyman-Kan Governour of the Province, whofe 
 duty it was to advertife the King. Thereupon he requeued me to fend my Inter- 
 preter , which I did. Upon whofe intelligence the Lieutenant of the Fort came 
 to Compliment the Ambaffador on the behalf of the chief Commander, and to 
 condutt him to the Caftle. 
 
 Thereupon the Ambaffador , my felf , and my Interpreter , together with fome 
 Armenian Merchants went with him , travelling for three hours over the Mountains. 
 By that time we came half the way, as we pafs'd through a Wood, we heard 
 as it were fome perfon give a Whiftle at which when the Lieutenant perceiv'd us 
 to be fomewhat ftartl'd , he carry'd us to the place from whence the Whiftle came, 
 where we faw a Serpent about as big as a Man's Thigh , and about twelve Foot 
 long , whole head was fqueez'd between two Trees , that put him to pain. From 
 that Mountain we defcended into a pleafant Plain , where the Commander of the 
 Fortrefs ftaid for us under his Tent. He had fet it up by the fide of a River , under 
 the fhade of feveral great Walnut-trees. So foon as he faw us , he rofe from his 
 great Silk Tapeftry Coverlet, and faluted us in a moft civil manner , telling us, that 
 affuredly Sha-Abai, his Mafter, would be very glad to hear that the Monarchs of 
 Chriftendom had fent him an Ambaffador , and that he would write to Solyman-Kan y 
 whofe duty it was to advertife the Emperour. Thereupon he wrote and difpatch'd 
 away a Meffenger , giving him order to tell the Deroga , or Judge of the Town 3 
 through which we were to pafs , that he fhould make Provifion for us and our 
 Horfes 'till we came to the Governour. After he had ask'd us feVeral Queftions 
 
 concerning 
 
Chap. V. of Monfieur TaverniU. 
 
 concerning the War between the Grand Signor and the Venetians , how many thou- 
 fand men he had as well by Sea as Land , and what number of Galleys and Ships ? 
 wherein we fatisfy'd him according to the beft of our knowledge. After he 
 had civilly treated us, he fent his Lieutenant back with us again to the Caravan. 
 About ten a Clock the next night we diflodg'd , and the Lieutenant and fix Souldiers 
 attended upon us -, who told us he had order not to leave us , 'till he had brought us 
 to Solyman Kan. 
 
 The next night we lodg'd between two Hills , among feveral Tents of Herds- 
 men. Here it was that the Commander had order'd that we fhould be treated by 
 the Deroga. A Deroga ; as I have faid , is the Judge of a Village : But this De~ 
 roga was chief of many Families , lbme of which were of Mefopotamia , others of 
 Arabia. Thefe are allHerdfmen than never live in Houfes, but retire with their: 
 Cattle to the holes in the Rocks, where partly Nature , partly Art, have contri- 
 buted to make them convenient Habitations. 
 
 So foon as we were alighted , four ancient men came and led the AmbafTador 
 and my felf to the Deroga's Tent. It feem'd to confift of many Rooms, with a 
 Hall in the middle, ipread with fair Perfan Carpets. He caus'd us to fit down 
 upon Cufhions , and then prefented us with a Pipe of Tobacco , and Water to 
 wafh our Feet. After he had nobly treated us, and that we were upon taking 
 our leaves , the Deroga was very much troubl'd that we had made a fmall Prefent 
 to his Son*, telling us, that it was a crime for him to take any thing of the King's 
 Guefts , efpecially from Strangers that had come fo long a Journey. 
 
 The next day we lodg'd in a place where there was fuch a prodigious quantity 
 of Lillies that the Ground was almoftcover'd with them. There were none that 
 were white, being for the moft part of a fair Violet colour, with aftreak of Red 
 in the middle of every leaf-, they are like our Lilly's, but much bigger. And to 
 drink the infufion of the Roots of thefe Lilly's , efpecially thofe whofe Leaves are 
 blackeft, for fifteen days together , is a moft Soveraign remedy againft the Pox. 
 Not long after came a Perfon of a goodly Afpetl , who feem'd to be an Arabian , 
 but he fpoke the Perfan Language , whom Solyman Kan had fent to Compliment the 
 AmbafTador. He carry'd us to the Tent which the Governour had caus'd to be fet 
 up in a Garden near the Town , where he alio Lodg'd the Capuchins. The Ambafla- 
 dor alio fent to Compliment the Kan by my interpreter and when the hour was; 
 come that we were to fet forward , he gave order to fix of the Captains of his Ca- 
 valry to accompany the AmbafTador. The Houfe where the Governour liv'd in, was 
 one of the moft beautiful inTerfia. And as for the Governour himfelf, we found 
 him in a Gallery that look'd upon the Garden , the Floor being all fpread over with a 
 Tapeftry of Gold and Silk , with large Cufhions of Cloth of Gold all along the 
 Wall. After fome Queftions and difcourfe concerning the Affairs of Europe , they 
 ferv'd in Supper , which confuted of feveral Difhes -, but no Wine was to be had ; 
 our drink being only Sherbet and the juice of Granates , with Sugar for thofe that 
 defir'd it. We were a long time at Supper , for 'tis the cuftom of Terfia that when 
 one man rifes, another takes his place and falls too, in fo much that the Mafter of the 
 Feaft muft have the Patience to ftay 'till feveral have tak'n their turns-, and when 
 every one has done , the Cloth is tak'n away without any more to do. Here the 
 AmbafTador committed an abfurdity -, for there are no Silver or Gold Spoons in 
 Perfia, but only long Wooden Ladles that reach a great way. Now the AmbafTa- 
 dor reaching his Ladle to a Purflane-Difh full of Pottage that was fcalding hot , 
 clap'd it prefently into his mouth \ but finding it fo hot that he could not endure 
 it, after feveral fcurvy faces, he threw it out of his mouth again into his hand, 
 in the prefence of all the Company. 
 
 After we had ftay'd five days at Sneirne , the Caravan-Bajhi fignifi'd his defireto 
 purfue his Journey. Thereupon the AmbafTador took his leave of the Governour, 
 prefenting him with a Watch and a pair of Piftols; who in retaliation prefentedthe 
 AmbafTador with a ftately Horfe , and a Colt of two years old. The next day we 
 diflodg'd , and purfu'dour Road to Amadan, which is not above three days Journey 
 from Sneirne. 
 
 Amadan is one of the largeft and moft confiderable Cities of Perjia, featedatthe 
 foot of a Mountain , where do arife an infinite company of Springs that water all 
 the Country. The Land about it abounds in Corn and Rice , wherewith it furnifhes 
 
 K z the 
 
j6 The Persian Travels Book II. 
 
 the greateft part of the neighbouring Provinces. Which is the reafon that fome 
 of the Perfian Statef-men hold it very inconvenient for the King of Perfia to keep 
 Bagdat, as well by realbn of the vaftnefs of the Charge , as alfo for that it draws 
 from Amadan that which fhould lupply other Provinces. On the other fide, it is 
 eafie for the Grand Signer to hold it, by reafon of the neighbourhood of Mefopo- 
 tamia, zAjfyria , and the Arabs, Enemies to the Per fans : by which means Provi- 
 fions are very cheap , which the people would not know where to put off" , if the 
 King of Perfia were Lord of Bagdat. 
 
 We ftaid at Amadan about ten days, by reafon of the Rains - , during which time 
 the Caravans cannot travel. While we tarry'd there, we were vifited by feveral 
 Babylonian Chriftians, who were glad to fee that we had efcap'd the Clutches of the 
 Bafba of Bagdat , who had giv'n order to the Eajha of Karkou , and the Bey of 
 SbaraJJhi that commands the Frontiers of Turkie , to feize us , and carry us back to 
 Bagdat. For which we might have thank'd the Ambaflador, and a malicious Rabbi, 
 that came along with us in the Caravan from Aleppo; who finding the Feaft of the 
 Tabernacles to be at hand , and that we had a great way to IJpahan , left us at Ni- 
 niveh , to keep the Feftival with the Jews of Babylon. Where that he might infi- 
 nuate himfelf into the Bajha's favour , he inform'd him that there was a Fringuiz. 
 in the Caravan , whom he look'd upon as a Spy, and that he was an Envoy into Perfia 
 from the Commonwealth of Venice ; for he carry'd no Merchandize , but had three 
 Chefts full of rich Habits , and feveral other things which he took for Prefens to 
 the Perfian King. For out of vanity or folly, the Venetian had feveral times open'd 
 his Cheft and expos'd his Gallantry to view. And yet he was fo clutch-fifted and 
 niggardly in every thing , that when there was any occafion to reward the Kan's 
 Servant, or any of the Country -men that brought us the Dainties of the place, it 
 came all out of my Pocket. So that I left him to my Interpreter and the two Ca- 
 puchins \ and with three Servants and a Guide, after I had ftaid at Amadan three 
 days , I took Horfe for IJpahan. 
 
 When I came there, the Naz,ar or Mafter of the King's Houfhold hearing I 
 had left an Ambaflador behind me with the Caravan , cnquir'd of me what manner 
 of Perfon he was , but I pretended I had had little converfe with him , unwilling 
 to difcover his mean Spirit. The Evening before his Arrival the Naz,ar fent to 
 give the Fringuiz. notice in the King's Name , that they fhould be ready to go 
 meet-the Ambaflador the next day •, which we did , and brought him into the City 
 and through ^AlH Gate , that joyns to the King's Palace. Now 'tis the cuftom 
 for all Ambafladors to falute that Gate , by reafon of a white Marble Stone made 
 like an Afles back , and which ferves for a Step : being , as they report , brought 
 anciently out of Arabia , where Ali liv'd. So foon as you have ftrid over that Stone 
 without touching it, which were a great crime , you enter into a kind of a Gallery, 
 where there are Rooms on each fide , which ferves for a Sanctuary for Criminals, 
 which the King himfelf cannot fetch out of that place. That day that the new King 
 receives his Enfigns of Royalty, he goes to ftride over that Stone-, and if by negli- 
 gence he Ihould chance to touch it , there are four Guards at the Gate , that would 
 make a (hew of thrufting him back again. 
 
 But now the Mafter of the Ceremonies being ready to conduct the Ambaflador 
 to the Apartment alotted him, as an Ambaflador that came from three great Mo- 
 narchy, and a potent Commonwealth , he defir'd to lodge at the Houfe of one Pictro 
 Pentalet, defcended from Venetian Parents:, whereupon the Mafter of the Ceremonies 
 conducted him thither , and caus'd his Dinner to be brought him. While we were 
 eating, I counted thirteen Languages fpoken at the Table*, Latin, French, High- 
 Dutch , Englijh , Leva-Dutch , Italian , Portuguez. , Perfian , Turkijh , Arabic , Indian, 
 Syriac, and Malay e, which is the Language of the Learned, that is fpoken from the 
 River Indus to China and Japan , and in all the Hands of the Eaft , like Latin in 
 Europe ; not reck'ning the little Morefco or Gibbrifli of the Country. So that it is 
 a difficult thing to obferve what is talk'd in one Company, where the Difcourfe 
 begins in one Language , is purfu'd in another, and finifh'd in a third : and for the 
 Turks and Armenians , they never fpeak above three or four Languages at moft. 
 
 Now to (hew you the Civility of the Per fans the Mafter of the Ceremonies came 
 to the Ambaflador and told him , that if he did not like the Cookery of the Per fans, 
 he had Order from the Atemadoulet, who is as the Grand Viz.ier in Turkie, to offer him 
 
 Money 
 
Chap. V. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 77 
 
 Money inftead of Diet, to the end he might drefs his own Meat as he pleas'd hinv 
 Telf. Upon which the covetous AmbafTador accepted his offer, and two hours after 
 there was a Bag brought him of 50 Tomans, which amount to about 800 Crowns. 
 The Frank* being offended at his bafenefs, flighted the AmbafTador, and left him 
 to keepHoufe by himfelf, which was poor enough God knows ; an Onion or a Turncp 
 Terving his turn for a Meal. Some days after, he had Audience of the King, to 
 whom he prefented his Letters Credential from the Pope, the Emperour, the King 
 of Poland, and the Commonwealth of Verne. Thofe from the three lad were well 
 receiv'd , becaufe the Seals were of Gold , and for that the Paper was embelifh'd 
 with curious Flourifhes : but the Pope's Letters were rejected with fcorn , becaufe 
 the Seals were only of Lead, as the Bulls are ufually feal'd •, and for that the Writing 
 was very plain. For the Kings of Perfia , who are very nice, love things that are gay 
 to the Eye :, otherwife they look upon themfelves to be affronted. Dominico de Santis 
 had better have tak'n upon him the meaner quality of an Envoy, than the title of 
 an AmbafTador, unlefs he had known better how to behave himfelf:, efpecially being 
 To edips'd as he was by a real AmbafTador that arriv'd at Ifoahan Tome time after. All 
 the Frank* went forth to meet him, and the Mafter of the Ceremonies made him 
 the Time proffers as he had done to the V rnetian : but he nobly anfwer'd , That what- 
 ever it were that the King of Perfia Tent him, he fhould take it for a very great 
 Honour: otherwife, if he would have eaten Gold , the King his Mafter would have 
 allow'd him 30 Mules Load. Such perfons as behave themfelves with decency and 
 a good grace, are the perfons that the Chriftian Princes fhould fend into Perfia^ 
 who are the moft refin'd Wits , and the beft Politicians of all Afia. 
 
 To conclude the Story of the V enctian , I will give you his Character. An Indian 
 naturally of a good Wit having embrae'd Chriftianity and an Ecclefiaftical Life, went 
 to Rome to complete his Studies which he had begun at Goa ; whither, the Pope, 
 taking an affeftion to him, Tent him afterward as his Vicar. Dominico de Santis 
 being then at Rome , put himfelf into his Tervice , and follow'd him into the Indies, 
 where I faw him the firft time I went, in a mean condition. Upon his return to 
 Venice, where he was in no credit before , he made people believe that he underftood 
 the Trade of Afia ; whereupon fome particular Merchants trufted him with Tome 
 Goods , which were caft away at Seide. Thus poor and bare he return 'd to Cjoa, 
 where he got 800 Crowns by a charitable Contribution. From thence he traveTd 
 to Ijfahan , where he fell into the acquaintance of Father Rigordi a Jefuite , with 
 whom he went into Poland: where making his brags of the great knowledge he had 
 of the Affairs of Perfia , the King gave him that Commiffion which I have already 
 mention'd. The Emperour follow'd his Example, and the Commonwealth of Venice 
 did the Tame: and to give the more luftre and authority to his Embafly, they got 
 the Pope to joyn with them. But alas ! both Dominico de Santis , and all fuch perfons 
 as he, that go into Afia without Brains and good Behaviour , do but proftitute the 
 Reputation of the Princes that fend them. Such another was Father Rigordi , who 
 after he had been thruft out of Goa by the Portugals , went to Ifpahan, where he 
 infinuated himfelf by a Propofition which he made of Marrying the King of Perfia, 
 who was then a very young Prince , to the Dutchefs of Orleance. Under which 
 pretence he was well receiv'd and treated by the King from whom he alfo receiv'd 
 Tome Prefents by virtue of that Propofal , which was good fport to the DutcheTs when 
 (he heard of it. 
 
 As for the Venetian, the Atemadoiilet , who was very glad to be rid of him , defir'd 
 the Mufcovite AmbafTador, who was then upon his return home , to take him along 
 with him , which he did as far as the Cajpian Sea , where they take Shipping 
 for Aftracan; but there the Mufcovite told him he could carry him no further: 
 thereupon he was fore'd to come back to Ifpahan, and To to travel to Goa, whence the 
 Portugals fhipt thim home for Charities Take. But when he came to Venice, has was 
 To farfrom being well receiv'd , that the Senate had like to have puniffi'd him feverely 
 for giving To bad an account of his Negotiation, 
 
 CHAP; 
 
78 The Persian Travels Book II. 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Of the ^oad fbhich the Author kept , Trim he TraVell'd the fourth 
 time into A(ia , to go from Paris to Ormus. And firft of his 
 Voyage from Marfeilles to Alexandretta. 
 
 I Set out from Paris in the company of Monfieur d' Ardiliere the eighteenth 
 of June, 1 65 1. and arriv'd at Marfeilles the fixteenth of July. On the 
 twenty-fixth of Augufi we fet Sail , with a favourable North- Weft Wind 
 that blew very briskly the two next days •, but at length it grew fo very flack , 
 that coming about to the North -North-Earl, we made for Sardinia. Upon the fecond 
 of September by Sun-rifing, we difcover'd the Weftern Coaft of Sardinia, fix Leagues 
 from the Land. About Noon the Wind chopping about again to the North- Weft , 
 we held on our firft Courfe ; and upon the third of September , we defcry'd the 
 Ifland Galita upon the Coaft of Africa. On the fourth we difcover'd the Ifland of 
 Zambino before Tunis , and about Evening Cape Bon , which is the moft Southerly 
 Point of all Africa. The fifth we had a fight of the Ifland of Tantalaria , and the 
 Coaft of Sicily. The fixth we difcover'd the Ifland of Goz.a , and the feventh the 
 Caftle that bears the fame name. 
 
 We landed at Malta upon the'day of the Nativity of the Virgin , which is a great 
 day among the Maltefi, upon which they give thanks to God, for that the Turks rais'd 
 their Siege upon that day. 
 
 The Grand-Mafter goes to the Church of St. John , accompany'd with all the 
 chief Commanders in their Robes of Command, and the greateft part of the Knights. 
 All the Country-men and Citizens are up in Arms upon that day , and march to the 
 Inn call'd the Auvernian-houfe , with the Knight that goes to fetch the Standard. 
 This Knight is clad in a CafTock of Crimfon-Velvet , with a Crofs of the Order, be- 
 fore and behind. He wears a Helmet upon his head , and carries the Standard upon 
 his (houlders and by him marches the Grand-Mafter's Page , who carries a Sword 
 in one hand , and a Dagger in the other , both very richly Embellifh'd , and giv'n 
 to the Order by CHARLES the fifth. The Page that carry'd the Sword and 
 Dagger was the youngeft Nephew of Pope Innocent the tenth.TheSouldiers andCitizens 
 marching before to the Church door , make a Lane for the Knight and the Page to 
 pafs on to the Altar, where the Knight makes three bows , and having clone as much to 
 the Grand-Mafter , places himfelf on the right hand of the Grand-Mafters Chair, 
 and the Page on the left. Then the Mafs and the Mufick begins , and while the 
 Gofpel is reading , the Grand-Mafter takes the Sword and the Dagger out of the 
 Page's hand , and holds them with the points upward all the remaining part of the 
 Mafs. During the Elevation of theHoft, the Knights .repeats the fame Ceremony 
 as at the beginning-, and then the Bells ring, the great Guns go off, and the Soul- 
 diers give three Vollies. Mafs being ended , the Grand-Mafter retires , accom- 
 pany'd as before , only that he is then attended by all the Ecclefiaftical perfons of the 
 City , and coming out of the Church , he proceeds with all the Infantry marching 
 before him toward our Lady's of Vitlory , where they all go in procefllon. While 
 they make a ftandin that place, the Souldiers give another Volley, which is an- 
 fwer'd by all the Canons in the Town , as alfo from the Ships and Galleys. After that 
 they return to St. John's ; and the Infantry Guard the Standard back to the Inn , 
 while the Grand-Mafter goes to his Palace. 
 
 The ninth we view'd the Fortifications , which are ftor'd with very fair pieces of 
 Canon. 
 
 The tenth we faw the Pages perform their Exercifes before the Grand-Mafter , 
 which are generally vaulting and handling their Arms , both Mulquet and 
 Pike. 
 
 The elev'nth we view'd the Arfenal , where I was aflur'd that there were Arms 
 for twenty thoufand men , being in good order , and rarely well look'd after. 
 
 The next day we vifited the Infirmery , where the fick are ferv'd in Plate , as 
 well the poor as rich. 
 
 The 
 
Chap. VI. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 The twentieth we fet Sail, having the Wind at Weft-South- Weft, and a frefh 
 gale^ fo that upon the twenty-third we difcover'd the Coaft of theAforea , to which 
 we approach'd fo near, as todefcry Navarin. In the Evening we faw the City of 
 Cor on, where there is a great Trade for Sallet-Oyl. From thence it was that the 
 Great Turk^ Embarqu'd forC*^ in the year 1645. 
 
 The twenty-fourth the Wind was at Eaft-North-Eaft. In the Morning we difco- 
 ver'd the Cape of Matapan , which is the moft Southern Point of Land in Europe, 
 lying in the Morea , and at Noon the Hand of Cberigo. 
 
 The twenty-fifth we drew near Cyprus, and defcry'd a Mountain in that Ilandj 
 call'd Cameliere , with fome other Promontories toward the South. 
 
 From the twenty-feventh day 'till we came to Alexandretta , we perceiv'd the 
 Sea to be all over cover'd with Pumice-ftones , which happ'nd from an Earth- 
 quake that had for fome time before fwallow'd up the Hand of Santorini. Some 
 think that it proceeded from the abundance of Sulphur, of which that Country is 
 full, which took Fire , and was die death of above 750 of thellanders, that were 
 partly buried in the Ruines, and^artly dy'd out of fear. They that remain'd alive, 
 became black like Charcoal and the Vapours that attended out of the Abyfs fully'd 
 all the Silver as far as Conftantinople ; the noife of the Earthquake being heard as far 
 as Smyrna. 
 
 The twenty-ninth , by break of day we difcover'd the Hand of Cyprus. 
 
 The firft of October by eight in the Morning we came to an Anchor before Salines, 
 which is one of the Ports of Cyprus , where our Confuls live. Here I ask'd feveral 
 of the Chriftians of the Country, how, they did to live and pay their Car age ? Who 
 told me that it was with a great deal of difficulty, in regard the Hand was very bare 
 of Money •, which was the reafon that many Chriftians turn'd Mahometans , to avoid 
 paying their Carage , which is a Tribute that the Grand Signor layes upon alt 
 Chriftians throughout his Dominions. He exafts from the pooreft fix Piaslers a 
 Head •, but there are fome that pay a hundred , or a hundred and fifty : and this 
 Tribute is due fo foon as ever they come to be eighteen years of age. 
 
 The Hand of Cyprus is one of the moft considerable in the Mediterranean Sea, 
 more to the Eaft than any of the reft bearing the title of a Kingdom, as being 
 500 Miles in circuit. It is not all of the fame bredth, being of a triangular form, 
 the fides whereof arc very unequal. To it there belong feveral Capes or Promon- 
 tories, the principal whereof are, St. Epiphanio , toward the Weft-, Cape de 
 Cjate , toward the South •, Cape Diegrega , toward the North-Eaft •, Cape Cormachiti, 
 toward the North and Cape St. Andrew, upon the moft Eaftern Point of the Hand. 
 The principal Roads are that of Salines or Larneca , that of Vaphos , and that of 
 Cerines or Cerigni. The Haven of Famagofta fignifies nothing as to great Ships, there 
 being none but fmall Velfels that can ride there. The Venetians had formerly made 
 a fmall Mole there to harbour their Gallies , but it is now quite ruin'd. The Road 
 of Cerines is that where the Barks and Galliots lye that come from Caramania , and 
 Payajfes ; and where the Bajha's land that are fent as Governours of the Hand from 
 Conftantinople , who refide generally at Nicofia. That City is almoft in the middle of 
 the Hand , and was formerly a very large one , as appears by the compafs of the* 
 ancient Walls. The new Walls are well terrafs'd within-fide , and in a good pofture 
 of defence. There are three Gates belong to the City •, that of Famagofta , that of 
 Vaphos , and that of Cerines. The City it felf is no uncomely place \ the Venetians 
 having adorn'd it with many fair Palaces , which the Turks demolifh everyday, out 
 of hopes to find hidd'n Treafure therein , and fell the Stones to build new Houfes. 
 The Cathedral that goes by the name of Santa Sophia is an ample and fair Structure, 
 of which the Turks have now made a Mofquee , together with one more, which 
 was formerly a Monaftery belonging to the Jf#/?i»-Fryars. The Greeks have there four 
 Churches, and the Franks two •, that is to fay, the French Miffionary Capuchins, and 
 the Italian Miffionary Soccolans. The firft have a Church dedicated to St. James, the 
 others another, which is call'd Holy Rood Church. The Armenians alfo have another 
 belonging to them , which is a very neat Building , which was formerly a Monaftery 
 of the Carthufians. There it is that there is a Tomb , adorn'd with feveral Sculptures 
 of Religious Nunns, efpecially an Abbefs with a Crofs in her Hand , the Writing 
 about the Stone being in French Characters. The City is feated in a temperate Air 
 and a fertil Soil , abounding with Water. It extends more in length than bredth, 
 
 having 
 
80 The Persian Travels Book II. 
 
 having been anciently nine Miles in compafs^ but the Venetians to make it ftronger, 
 reduc'd it to the circuit of three. The Work of the Fortification was fo neat , and 
 fuch a proportion obferv'd in all things , that the moft famous Engineers efteem'd 
 it one of the moft ftately Fortreffes in the World , when Selim the Second lent an 
 Army againft it, under the Command of Mufiapha his Grand Vizier. 
 
 Famagofla is a Sea-Town upon the Eaft-fide of the Hand , and the chief Bulwark 
 of it. It is kept in good repair, theCaftle within being in form of a Cittadel. The 
 Turks have converted into Mofquees the Churches of the Chriftians , who are not 
 fuffer'd to dwell in the City. They have only the liberty to come thither in the day, 
 . v and to open Shops, which they fhut up again at night,and then go home to their Houfes 
 in the neighbouring Villages. The City is govern'd by a Bey, who has no dcpen- 
 dance upon the Governour of the Hand , who is oblig'd to maintain a Galley for the 
 guard of the Coaft. 
 
 Cerines is another little City, but without any defence , the Walls thereof being 
 all tumbl'd to ruine. Only there is a Fortrefs toward the Sea , well built , with 
 a Garrifon in it. There is alfo a handfom Monafrery of Religious Greeks , built 
 ibmewhat after the French manner } wherein there are fome of the Cells which 
 (land fo upon the Sea , that they can fifti out of the Windows. The Fields about 
 it bear Cotton , which is the chief Revenue of the Monaflery. There is only the 
 Fort of Cerines upon the North , where the Hand does not lye fo open , as toward 
 the South and Eaft-, which befides by that of Famagofla, are guarded by the Forts 
 of Salines, Limijfo, and Paphds. The Inhabitants of the Hand are for the moft part 
 Cjreeks , efpecially in the Villages. They are clad after the Italian manner , both 
 Men and Women \ the Men wearing Hats like the Franks , and retaining their 
 ancient Cuftoms as much as is poffible for them to do. The Trade of the Iland lyes 
 in Cotton-wool , which is the beft in all the Eaft \ and fome Silk , which is neither 
 good i nor very plentiful. However the Iland is fertil enough, did it not want In- 
 habitants enow to till it. As for Bread, Wine, Cheefe, and Milk , they are all very 
 theap, and there is Oyl enough to ferve the Iland. But for the Wine , it is tranf- 
 ported out of the Hand to all the places of Trade not far difb.nt. The beft grows at 
 the foot of Olympus, and is a delicious fort of Drink. The Country between Nicojia 
 and Famagofla produces Cotton , of which there grows alfo fome between Paphos and 
 Limijfo. The chief place where the Silk is made is call'd Cytherea, a large Town 
 water'd with a fair River that runs from the Mountain of Venus. This River turns 
 feveral Mills , which are the chief Revenue of the Hand. There is Silk alfo made 
 between Paphos and Limijfo ■ upon the Road between which two places you meet 
 with a Town call'd Pifcopi , where are to be feen feveral Aquaedufts , that carry'd 
 the Water into the Rooms and Magazines where the people formerly made Sugar. 
 But fince the Iland was tak'n from the Venetians , one of the Bajha's that was fent as 
 Governour, burnt up all the Sugar-Canes in the Country. Toward the Sea-fhoar 
 near Limijfo , is to be feen one of the faireft Gardens of Cyprus , which they call 
 Shiti ; to which there belongs a magnificent Houfe , and a Grove of Orange- 
 Trees. It was built by a rich Venetian , who had a good Eftate in Lands there- 
 abouts. 
 
 In Cyprus the people take a vaft number of Birds as big as a Lark, efpecially near 
 the Mountain of the Holy Crofl. In the Months of September and Ottober , the 
 Country-people of the adjacent Villages make themfelves little Hutts in the Fields, 
 where ufually thofe Birds are wont to light, and feed upon the Seed of an Herb that 
 grows there *, which when it is dry, the people daub over with Lime-twigs. But 
 this they never do but when the North-Weft Wind blows, and that the weather be 
 very cold ^ for with a Southerly Wind they never take any. Thefe Birds are ac- 
 counted great Dainties by the Venetians , who make no great Feafts in CarnivaU 
 time wherein they do not fet thefe Birds upon the Table , pil'd up in Difties like a 
 Pyramid. They buy them up every year being firft prepar'd fit for exportation 
 by the people , who having pull'd off their Feathers, parboyl them , and pickle them 
 up in Barrels with Vinegar and Salt. When they are to be eat'n , they are fet upon 
 a Chafing-dilh , between two Difhes. Sometimes there are above a thoufand Barrel? 
 exported out of the Iland and indeed , were it not for this Trade , the poor people 
 would fee but very little Money. 
 
 Upon the Mountain of the Holy Crofl Hands a Church of the fame name j upon 
 
 which 
 
Chap. VI. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 which the report of the Country goes, that Sr. Helena returning from Jeruj.dcm 
 left a piece of our Saviour's Crofs with the Chriftians of Cyprus , who built a Church 
 there, by means of the Liberality of the fame Princefs. Afterwards thofe of the 
 Town of Leucara took it from hence, and carry'd it to their Church , where 1 law 
 it. The piece is as big as the Palm of a Man's Hand , let in a great Crofs of Latten, 
 embofs'd with feveral Figures. 
 
 In the Kingdom of Cyprus there is an Archbifhop and three Suffragans. The 
 Arch-bifhop takes upon him the Title of Nicofia, to which Famagofla belongs with 
 all the Country between Nicofia and Famagofla, with the Territories of Nkofia and 
 all the Villages round. He has a Houfe about a League from Nicofia , where the 
 chiefeft of his Revenue lies. Some years fince he caus'd the high Altar of the 
 Church to be painted and guilded , being a neat piece of Workmanfhip. Thus 
 the Arch-bifhop has under his Jurildi&ion all the middle part of the Ifland , and 
 fome part toward the Eaft. The Bifhops are the Bifhops of Paphos, Larneca, and 
 Cerines. „ 
 
 The Greeks are very much addicted to the obfervation of their ancient Cuftoms 
 and Ceremonies-,, and generally their Maffes are very long. Upon Sundays and 
 Holy-days they rife between one and two of the Clock in the Morning to Sing Mat- 
 tins. To which purpofe there is a Clerk that goes from door to door and knocks 
 with a Hammer, to wake the people, and then cries out with a loud voice, Chri- 
 ftians go to Church. The men and old women fail not to go as being more zealous 
 but the maids and young women never go out of doors in the night for fear of the 
 Turks. There are feven or eight Villages, the Inhabitants whereof are Maronites , 
 who came from Mount Libanus, and fpeak Arabic at home, but Greeks among the 
 Iflanders. They follow the Romijh Religion , and have their Churches peculiar to 
 themfelves. 
 
 The Ifland of Cyprus is no wholefom Air, being fubje&to thefpoylof a fort of 
 Locufts, that fome Summers deftroy all their Fruit aud Corn. During the heats 
 they hover in the Air, which they will dark'n with their number like a thick 
 Cloudy but when the North Wind blows, it carry's them into the Sea, where 
 they perifh. 
 
 There are in Cyprus three forts of colour'd Earth , a Grey-black , a Red , and a 
 Yellow i of which the Venetians fetch away great quantities for their courfer fort 
 of Painting. There's alio a Mine of White Alome , which is the ftone call'd Dami- 
 amlius. ' lis thought that the Ancients had a way to fpin this Alome into a kind of 
 Cotton, and fo to make out of it a certain fort of Cloth that would notconlumein 
 the Fire, but only be the more perfectly whitcn'd thereby. The Indians formerly 
 bury'd the dead bodies of their Kings deceas'd in Shrouds of this kind of Linnen , 
 and then putting them into the Fire, found the bodies all redue'dto afhes, but the 
 Cloth whole •, out of which they took the afhes, and carefully put them into an Vrne, 
 which was prepar'd for their prefervation. 
 
 When the Bafia of Cyprus has a mind to view the Fortrefs of Famagofla , he fends 
 to give the Bey y who is Govemour thereof, notice of it. For it is at theGover- 
 nours choice whether he will give him admiffion or no. The Bafha Hali-Giorgi , 
 being a comely old man of above a hundred and two years of age , fetting out of 
 Nicofia in his Litter with about two hundred Horfe , when he was come within 
 half aLeague of Famagofla, the Governour of the place lent bis Lieutenant with a 
 hundred Horfe to Compliment him , and to conduct him to the Town. Immediately 
 they took upon them the Guard of the Bafta's Litter , who was not permitted to take 
 along with him above eight or ten of his principal Officers. The Cannons roar'd at 
 his entry , and he was treated magnificently , but he lay not in the Town , be- 
 ing conduced back by the fame party to the place where they met him in the Morning, 
 
 Upon the third day of OClobcr we let Sail about three a Clock in the Morning with 
 a Weft-North-Weft Wind, and about. Noon we were within fight of Famagofla, 
 into which place we could by no means be admitted , by reafon of the Wars be- 
 tween the Turks and Venetians. But as far as I could difcern a far off, there is no' 
 eafie accefsto the Port, and for the City 1 could defcry no part of it. 
 
 The fourth, by break of day we got fight of the Coaftof Syria, CapeCanger, 
 and the Golf of t/fmioch , and about Evening we arriv'd in the Road of Alex- 
 andretta. 
 
 L From 
 
82 The Persian Travels Book II. 
 
 From thence we went to Aleppo , and ftay'd there from the feventh of Otkober 
 to the thirtieth of 'December. 
 
 On the thirtieth we fet forward for Nineveh, and with little variation of the Road 
 which I have already defcrib'd in my third Voyage from Paris. We arriv'd the fecond 
 day of February at Mouffd or Nineveh , where we ftay'd 'till the fifteenth , 'till the 
 Kilets or Boats of the Country could be got ready. Our Kilet carry'd thirty Paf- 
 iengers , and fixty hundred of Aleppo Weight , or thirty three thoufand pound of 
 Parts Weight , upon which the Tigris bore us from Monjfitl to Babylon. 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 A Continuation of the tffyad "tohkh the Author kept in the fourth 
 Voyage into Afia , and particularly of his faffage upon the Tigris 
 from Nineveh to Babylon. 
 
 THE fifteenth of February we put off from Monffdy and after we had 
 fwam fix hours , we came to lye near a hot Bath , about a Musket-ftiot 
 from the Tigris. It was throng'd with Sick people that came thither 
 for their Recovery. We kept our felves upon the Watch all night but 
 for all we could do, the Arabs ftoletwo Coverlets from a Merchant, andaT«r^s 
 Cloaths that was gone into the Bath. 
 
 The fixteenth , after we had row'd about five hours , we came to a huge Dam , 
 h is 200 Foot wide, and makes a fall in the River of about 20 Fathoms fteep. The 
 Arabians laid that Alexander the Great made it to turn the courfe of the River \ 
 others will have it , that Darius caus'd it to be made to hinder the paflage of the 
 Macedonians by Water. However , we were fore'd to land our felves and our 
 Goods, and to lade them upon Horfes which the Arabs brought us. 
 
 The pafiing this Dam is worthy obfervation. For it is a thing of wonder to 
 fee the Kilet all of a fudden fall above fixfeore Foot , and yet to be kept by the 
 Leather-Bottles ftill above Water. The Water-men that guide the Boat, tye them- 
 felves and their Oars faft to a Pearch bent like a Semicircle , to defend themfelves 
 from the force of the Water. And indeed this is the Dam that renders Tigris un- 
 navigable. 
 
 The Kilet being come to the place where we expefted it, we put our Goods 
 aboard , and lay in the fame place upon the Bank of the River. For the Arabs, if they 
 perceive the Merchants afieep , cut the Cords of the Kilet , and letting it a-drift, 
 fwim after it , and rifle away what they pleafe. 
 
 The feventeenth, after three hours rowing we met with the River Zab, that 
 empties into the Tigris, upon Chaldea-dde. Half a League above the River ftands 
 a fair Caftle of Brick upon a little Hill •, but no body dwelling in it , it runs to ruine. 
 We were twelve hours that day upon the Water, and came to lye at a place which 
 was full of Wood , where we made great Fires, and (hot off our Muskets often in 
 the night to fcare the Lions. 
 
 The eighteenth we were upon the Water eighteen hours , and lay upon the Bank 
 of the River , upon Ajfyria-hde. That Evening the Arabs brought us Milk-Meats, 
 and frefh Butter. They fwim from the other fide of the River with a Boracho under 
 their Stomachs , and another upon their Heads , wherein they bring their Commo- 
 dities ^ for which they will have no Money, but only Tobacco, or Bisket, or 
 Pepper. 
 
 The nineteenth , in four hours time we met with a River call'd AltHm-fou , or The 
 River of Gold. It flows from the Mountains of the Medes , and I travel'd by the 
 fide of it for three days together , returning from Taiiris to Aleppo , and pafling the 
 Tigris to Mefia. The Water of the River is of an excellent taft , and it falls into 
 Tigris upon Ajfyria-fide. All along the Tigris , on the fame fide , are great ftore of 
 Bituminous Springs, and other Streams of hot Water that fmcll of Sulphur. All that 
 
Chap. VII. o/Monfieur Tav ERNIER. 
 
 day we faw none but Arabs and Curds marching along the Banks of the River , the 
 Curds upon Mefopotamia fide , and the Arabs upon Ajfyria fide. They were at War, 
 and both fides march'd in very good order. The Young men went formoft with Bows 
 and Arrows , and fome Muskets , but feveral Half-Pikes. Next to them their 
 Wives, Virgins , and Children, with their Cattel , Herds, and Camels \ after which 
 march'd the Old men in the rear. As well the Curds as the Arabians fent out Horfe- 
 men to fcout upon the high Grounds •, for as loon as they find any advantage , they 
 prefently fwim their Horfes over the River and fall on. Now becaufe we would 
 not truft thofe fort of People , we row'd nineteen hours to avoid 'em. 
 
 The twentieth we were eleven hours upon the Tigris , and came to lye at a Town 
 call'd Tegrit , upon Mefopotamia fide. There belongs to the Town a Caftle half 
 ruin'd , and yet there are ftill fome handfom Chambers to be feen. Upon the North 
 and Eaft , the River ferves for a Moat but upon the Weft and South it has a deep 
 Artificial one pav'd with Free-ftone. The Arabians fay that formerly it was the 
 ftrongeft place in all Mefopotamia, though it be commanded by two Hills not far from 
 it. The Chriftians dwelt half a League from the City , where the Ruines of a 
 Church and part of a Steeple are ftill to be feen , whereby it appears to have been 
 a confiderable Pile of Building. 
 
 The twenty-firft , after we had row'd three hours , we met with a Town upon 
 Ajfyria fide , which was call'd Amet-el-tour , from the name of a perfon that lyes 
 inter'd in a Monaftery, whom the people account to be a Saint. Therefore is it a 
 place of great Devotion among them , fo that great numbers of Votaries go thither 
 in private. That day we were twelve hours upon the Water, and lay upon the 
 Banks of the River. 
 
 The twenty-fecond, having been upon th6 Water two hours, we met with a great 
 Channel cut out of Tigris to water the Lands , which runs up as far as juft over- 
 againft Bagdat , and there falls into the Tigris agaim Coming thither, we landed 
 upon Chaldea fide , by reafon that there were certain Turks with us , who would 
 of neceffity perform their Devotions at a place call'd Samatra. In the fame there 
 is a Mofquee not above half a League from the River \ to which many Mahometans 
 pay their Devoirs, efpecially Indians and Tartars , who believe forty of their Pro- 
 phets to be buried there. When they knew us to be Chriftians , they would not 
 permit us, no not for Money, to let our Feet in it. About five hundred Paces 
 from the Mofauee ftands a Tower very ingenioufly built. There are two Stair-cafes 
 without, that belong to it, made twirling like a Periwinkle-fhell : one of which Stair- 
 cafes was built deeper into the Tower than the other. I would have taken better 
 notice of it, could I have been permitted to have come nearer it. Only I obferv'd 
 that it was made of Brick , and that it feems to be very ancient. Half a League 
 from thence appear three great Portals , that look as if they had been the Gates of 
 fome great Palace. And indeed it is not improbable but that there was fome great 
 City thereabouts for, for three Leagues all along the River there is nothing to be 
 feen but Ruines. We were twelve hours that day upon the Water , and lay upon 
 the Banks of Tigris, according to cuftom. 
 
 The twenty-third, we were twenty hours upon the Water, and all the day long 
 we faw nothing upon either fide of the River but pitiful Hutts made of the Branches 
 of Palm-trees , where live certain poor people that turn the Wheels, by means 
 whereof they water the neighbouring Grounds. We alio met that day with a River 
 call'd Odoine , that falls into Tigris upon the fide of the ancient Chaldea. 
 
 The twenty-fourth, we were twenty-two hours upon the Water together , never 
 ftirring off from the Kilet. The reafon is, becaufe the Merchants having tak'n out 
 of the Kilet all their Money and the belt, part of their Merchandizes, give them 
 to the Country-people , who carry them very faithfully to Bagdat , whither they 
 go to fell their own Commodities : which the Merchants do, to avoid the payment 
 of Five in the Hundred , in the City. I trufted them alfo with feveral things of 
 which they gave me a very good account, as they did toothers, being contented 
 with a fmall matter for their pains. 
 
 The twenty-fifth, about four of the Clock in the Morning we arriv'd at Bagdat, 
 which is as ufually call'd Babylon. They open the Gates by fix , and then the 
 Cuftomers come to take an account of the Merchandize, and to fearch the Merchants 
 themfelves. If they find nothing about 'em , they let the Merchants go I but if 
 
 1. 2 they 
 
The Persian Travels Book II. 
 
 they have any thing about 'em which ought to pay, they carry the perfons to the 
 Cuftom-Houfe , where they write down the quantity of the Goods , and let them 
 go. All the Merchandize upon the Kilet is carry'd thither alfo , which the Mer- 
 chant fetches away again in two or three days , paying the Cuftom : All which is 
 done in very great order, without any noife or difturbance in the leaft. 
 
 Though Bagdat ufually bear the name of Babylon , yet it is at a great diftance 
 from the ancient Babylon , whereof in due place. But now for Bagdat , as it ftands 
 at this day. 
 
 Bagdat is a City feated upon the River of Tigris, on the Coaft of Perfia , and fe- 
 parated from Mesopotamia by the fame River. It lyes in 3 3 Deg. 1 5 Min. of Ele- 
 vation. The Chronicles of the Arabians report that it was built by one of their 
 Cahffs nam'd aAlmanfour , in the year of the Hegyra of Mahomet 145, and of 
 Chnftianity 762 , or thereabouts. They call it Dar-aUfani , that is , the Houfe of 
 Peace. Some fay it deriv'd its name from a Hermitage that flood in a Meadow 
 where the City now ftands , whence it was call'd Bagdat , or , a Garden bequeathed. 
 About forty years ago digging up the Foundations of an Inn , the Work-men found 
 a Body entire , habited like a Bifhop, with a Cenfor and Incenfe by him. And in 
 the Dime place ieveral Cells of Religious Houfes fhew'd themfelves : which makes 
 it very probable, that where Bagdat is built there was anciently a great Monaftery, 
 with feveral Houfes where the Chriftians inhabited. The City is about fifteen 
 hundred Paces long , and fev'n or eight hundred broad , and cannot poflibly be above 
 three Miles in circuit. The Walls are of Brick , and terrafs'd in fome places, with 
 large Towers like Baftions. Upon all thefe Towers there are mounted about fixty 
 pieces of Cannon , the biggeft whereof carries not above a five or fix Pound Ball. 
 The Moats are wide , and about five or fix Fathom deep. There are not above four 
 Gates ; three upon the Land-fide, and one upon the River, which you rauft crofs, over 
 a Bridge of thirty-three Boats, diftant one from the other about the bredth of one 
 Boat. The Caftle is in the City, near to one of the Gates call'd EUMaazan , upon 
 the North fide. It is partly built upon the River, encompafs'd only with a fingle Wall, 
 terrafs'd in fome places and adorn'd with little Towers , upon which are planted 
 about a hundred and fifty Cannon , but without Carriages. The Moat is narrow, 
 and not above two or three Fathom deep, neither is there any Draw-Bridge before 
 the Gate. The Garrifon confifts of three hundred Janizaries , commanded by an 
 Aga. The City is govern'd by a Bajha , who is generally a Vizier. His Houfe 
 is upon the fide of the River, making a fair fhew; and he has alway ready at com- 
 mand fix or fev'n hundred Horfe. There is alfo an Aga that commands three or 
 four hundred Spahi's. They have befides another fort of Cavalry which is call'd Gin- 
 guliler, that is to fay, Men of Courage, commanded by two Agafs ; and ufually there 
 are about three thoufand in the City and the Towns adjoyning. The Keys of the 
 Gates of the City and the Bridge-Gate are in the cuftody of another Aga, who 
 has under him two hundred Janizaries. There are alfo fix hundred Foot-men, 
 who have their particular Aga, and about fixty Cannoneers, who were at that time 
 commanded by an expert Artift that went by the name of Signor Michael, who pafs'd 
 for a Turkj though he were born in Candy. He put himfelf into the Grand Signer's 
 fervice,when he went to befiegei?^^,in the year 1638. Though the Turk^ had the 
 good fortune to carry the City in a fmall time not fo much by virtue of the Breach 
 which Signor Michael had made in the Wall , as the Sedition and Revolt that hap- 
 pen'd at the fameinftant, the Story whereof was thus in fhort. 
 
 The Kan that fuftain'd the brunt of the Siege at firft , was originally an Armenian, 
 and his name was Sefi~conli-Kan. He had commanded the City a long time , and had 
 defended it twice from the Army of the Turks , who were not able to take it before. 
 But the King of Perfia having fent one of his Favourites to command in his room, 
 who had enter'd upon his Command before the Cannon had made the Breach, the old 
 Kan finding himfelf difplac'd by the Commilfion of the new Governour , rather 
 chofe to dye, than furvive the Affront which was put upon him. To which purpofe 
 he fent for his Servants , the Officers of the Army, his Wife and Son , and taking 
 three Cups of Poyfon in his Hand, he commanded his Wife,if ever (he lov'd him, now 
 to fhew the marks of her affettion by generoufly dying with him. He gave the 
 fame exhortation to his Son and fo all three together drank up the Poyfon, which 
 procur'd their fpeedy death.The Souldiers,who had a great love for their Governour, 
 
 having 
 
Chap. VII. of Monfieur T a vernier. 
 
 having beheld fo difmal a Spertacle , and knowing the Grand Signor was preparing 
 for a general Affault , would not obey their new Kan , but began to art like Re- 
 volted, and to that purpofe they agreed to deliver up the City, upon condition 
 they might march away with their Arms and Baggage: but the Turks did riot keep 
 their words. For fo foon as the Turks were got into the City, the Bajha's told the 
 Grand Signor, that to weak'n the force of the Pcrfian, it was necefTary for him 
 to put to the Sword all the Souldiers that were in the City: and thereupon there 
 were above twenty thoufand maffacr'd in cold Blood. The T nrks had feiz'd upon 
 the Capuchins Manfion , but Signor Michael chief of the Canoneers , got it to be 
 reftor'd them again. 
 
 As to the Civil Government of Bagdat , there is none but a Cady, who does all, 
 arting even the Mufti , with a Shiekelaflon or Tefterdar , who receives the Revenues 
 of the Grand Signor. There are in it five Mofquees, of which two are indifferently 
 well built, and adorn'd with T> Homo's cover'd with varnifh'd Tiles of different colours. 
 There are alfo ten Inns , all ill built, except two, which are reafonably convenient. 
 In general, the City is ill built there being nothing of beauty in it but the Baz.ars t 
 which are all arch'd elfe the Merchants would not be able to endure the heats. 
 They rauft alfo be water'd three or four times a day for which office feveral poor 
 people are hir'd upon the publick charge. The City is full of Trade , but not fo full 
 as it was, when in the hands of the King of Ptrfia: for when the Turk^ took it, he 
 ki'l'd moll of the richeft Merchants. However there is a great confluence thither 
 from all Parts :, whither for Trade , or for Devotions fake , I cannot tell : becaufe 
 they that follow the Sert of Holy , do believe that Haly liv'd at Bagdat. Betides, 
 aH they that are defirous to go to Mecca by Land , muft pafs through Bagdat , where 
 every Pilgrim is forc'd to pay four Piafiers to the Bajha. You muft take notice that 
 there are in Bagdat two forts of Mahometans , the firft are call'd Rafedi's, or Here- 
 tics', the fecond, Observers of the Law, in all things like thofe at Conflantinofle. 
 The Rafedi y s will by no means eat or drink with a Chriftian , and very hardly with 
 the reft of the Mahometans : or if they do happ'n to drink out of the fame Cup, 
 or to touch them , they prefently wafh themfelves , as believing themfelves unclean. 
 The others are not fo fcrupulous, but eat and drink and converfe with all the 
 World. In the year 1 639, after the Grand Signor had tak'n Bagdat, a Rafedi who 
 was a Carrier of Water not only refus'd to give a Jew to drink , who defir'd it of 
 him in the Market-place , but abus'd him alio in words. Thereupon the Jew com- 
 plain'd to the Cady, who immediately fent for him, and caus'd his Boracho and his 
 Cup to be brought along with him*, when he came before him, he ask'd for his Cup, 
 and gave the Jew to drink , and then made the Porter drink alfo out of the fame 
 Cup : After that , he order'd the Rafedi to be Baftinado'd , and this Leffon to be 
 taught him while he was chaftifing, That we are all God's Creatures, as well Maho- 
 metans, as Chriftians and Jews. This has made them lefs zealous in their Superftition, 
 though they are the chiefeft part of the Inhabitants of the City. 
 
 As to their Funerals, I have particularly obferv'd , that when the Husband dyes, 
 the Wife pulls off all her Head-gear , and lets her Hair fall about her Ears j then 
 fhe all befmears her Face with the Soot of a Kettle , and having fo done , frisks and 
 leaps about after fuch a ridiculous manner, as from others would father produce 
 laughter than tears. All the kindred, friends and neighbours meet at the Houfe of 
 the deceas'd, and ftay for the Celebration of the Funeral. At what time the Wo- 
 men ftrive to out-vie one another in a thoufand Apiih tricks , clapping their Cheeks, 
 yelling like mad people*, and then of a fudden letting themfelves to dance to the 
 found of two Drums , like thofe which the Tabor-and-Pipe-Men carry, upon which 
 the Women beat for a quarter of an hour. Among them there is one more ac- 
 cuftom'd to this fool'ry than the reft , that fills your Ears with mournful Dinns ; to 
 which other Women makeanfwer, by redoubling their Cries, which may be heard at 
 a great diftance. It would then be a vain thing to feek to comfort the Children 
 of the deceas'd*, for they feem to be lb much befide themfelves, that they are not 
 in a condition to hear any thing. And they are oblig'd to carry themfelves in that 
 manner, unlefs they intend to run the reproach of not having any kindneft for 
 their Parents. When the Corps is carry'd to the Grave , abundance of poor people 
 go before with Banners, and Crefcents at the ends of Sticks , finging moft difmal 
 Dirges all the way. The Women are not to be at the Internment , who are not 
 
 to 
 
86 
 
 The Persian Travels 
 
 Book II. 
 
 to go abroad but only upon Thurfdays , when they go to the Sepulchers to Pray for 
 the Dead. And becaufe that by their Law the Husband is oblig'd to lye with his 
 lawful Wife upon Thurfday-night or Fryday-night , upon Wednefday-morning the 
 Women go to the Baths , where they perfume their Heads and Bodies with a lweet 
 Water. They may go abroad fometimes at other feafons, when their Husbands 
 give them leave to vifit their Kindred - 0 but then they are to be wrapt up from 
 Head toFoot,that it is impoflible for their Husbands themfelves to know them if they 
 meet 'em i'the Streets. By the way take notice , that the Perfian Women , unlets 
 they be fuch as are very poor, would rather ftay within all the days of their Lives, 
 than go abroad without a Horfe. And it is a certain fign to know a Curtifan from 
 an honeft Woman for that the Curtifans put their Feet in the Stirup, and the honeft 
 Women only in the Stirup-leathers. The Women of Bagdat are very richly habited, 
 after their fafhions *, but they are not contented to wear their Jewels about their 
 Necks and Wrifts , for they hang them like Bracelets about their Faces, and will 
 bore holes in their Ears to put in a Ring. The Arabian Women only bore the 
 feparation between the two Noftrils , where they wear hollow Rings , as well to 
 fpare coft, as for lightnefs - , for fome are lb big , that you may almoft thruft your Fill 
 through them. Beyond all this, the more to beautifie themfelves, they make a 
 round Ring about their Eyes with a certain fort of Blacking : And as well Men as 
 Women , in the Defert, put the fame near their Eyes, to preferve them, as they fay, 
 from the heat of the Sun. 
 
 Of Chriftians there are three forts : Nefiorians , who have a Church Armenians 
 ^and Jacobites , who have none , but go to the Capuchins , who adminifter the Sacra- 
 ments to them. The Chriftians go in Devotion to a Chappel , about a fhort quarter 
 of a League from the City, dedicated to a Saint whom they call Keder-Elias, paying 
 a fmall Fee, for adraiflion, to the Turks, who keep the Keys. Two days journey 
 from the City ftands another ruin'd Church in a pitiful Village , where they fay, 
 that St. Simon and St. Jude were both Martyr'd and Buried. If a Chriftian dyes* all 
 the reft come to his Burial, and returning home, find a Supper prepar'd to welcom 
 them •, the next day they return to the Grave , and pray for the deceas'd and the 
 third day there is a Dinner for all comers and goers. Sometimes there will be a 
 hundred and fifty perfons at a Burial. They repeat the fame Ceremonies for the 
 feventh, fifteenth, thirtieth and fortieth days afterwards having a great veneration 
 for the Dead , for whom they pray too often. This cuftom of Feafting is very in- 
 convenient for the Poor for they being defirous to imitate the Rich, run them- 
 felves fometimes fo far in Debt , that they are forc'd to fell their Children to the 
 Turks to difcharge themfelves. 
 
 There are feveral Jews alfo in Bagdat , but more that come every year in Devotion 
 to vifit the Sepulcher of the Prophet Ez.ekiel , which is a day and a halfs journey 
 from the City. In fhort, fince the taking of Bagdat by Sultan Amur at , the number 
 of Inhabitants cannot be lefs than fifteen thoufand Souls-, which fhews that the City 
 is not peopl'd according to its bignefs. 
 
 About a day and a halfs journey from the Point of Mesopotamia, at diftance almoft 
 equal between Tigris and Euphrates , there appears a vaft Heap of Earth , which 
 the people call to this day Nemrod. It ftands in the midft of a wide Plain , and 
 may be difcover'd a great way off. The vulgar fort believe it to be the Remains 
 of the Tower of Babel* but there is more probability of the Arabians Opinion, who 
 call it Agartouf, and believe it to have been built by an Arabian Prince , who 
 always kept a Beacon at the top to affemble his Subjects together in time of War. 
 This Heap of Earth was about three hundred Paces in circuit •, but it is not eafie 
 to guefs at the ancient height, the reft being fal'n to ruine, but only eighteen or 
 twenty Fathom. It is built of Brick dry'd in the Sun , every Brick being ten 
 Inches fquare , and three thick. The Building is thus rais'd. Upon every row of 
 Canes or Reeds bruis'd to pieces and mix'd with Wheat-ftraw, and fpred an Inch 
 and a half thick , lye feven orders of thefe Bricks with a little Straw between each j 
 then another Bed of Reeds , and fix rows of Bricks then a third with five rows, 
 decreafing in that manner 'till you come to the top. The form of it feems to have 
 been rather fquare than round •, and in the higheft part of that which remains there 
 appears a Hole like a Window *, if it were not rather an Out-let for Water , or 
 a Hole for the Scaffolding. In fhort , according to the Defcription of Mofes there 
 
 is 
 
- _ ________________ — . — ' , 
 
 Chap. VIII. of Mbnfieur Taverkier. 87 
 
 is no likelihood that this fliould be the Remains of the ancient Tower of Hd- 
 bel. 
 
 The Plane of the City of Bagdat, which is to be compafs'd., as welt 
 by Land as by Water , in two Hours* 
 
 A. The ground-Plot. 
 
 B. The Fortref. 
 
 C. The Gate caWd Maazan-capfc 
 
 D. The New Bulwark^ 
 
 E. The Port where the Grand Signor erefted his fiirft Batt'ry > Anno 1638. 
 
 F. The Old Bulwarks 
 
 G. The Gate in the Wall. 
 
 H. The Old Bulwark 
 
 I. The Place w'here Amurat raised his fecond Batt'ry, when he made the Breach , arJ 
 
 tooVjhe City. 
 
 K. The Gate in the WalL 
 
 L. The Old Bulwark. x 
 
 M. The Old Bulwark. "" 
 
 N. Cara-capi, or the Black Gate: 
 
 O. The Old Bulwark, 
 
 P. Sou-capi , or the Water-Gate. 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 A Continuation of the (Road from Bagdat to Balfara j and of the 
 ^ligion of the Chriftians of St. John. 
 
 T^HE fifteenth of March we hir'd a Bark from Bagdat to Balfara. And 
 we obfei v'd , that a little beyond Bagdat the River Tigris divides it felf 
 into two Arms - , the one which runs through the ancient Chaldea, the 
 other keeps its courle toward the Point of Mesopotamia \ thefe two 
 Arms making a large Hand , crofs'd by feveral fmall Channels. 
 
 When we came to the place where Tigris divides it felf, we beheld as it were 
 the compafs of a City that might have formerly been a large League in circuit. There 
 are fome of the Walls yet Handing , upon which fix Coaches may go a-breft. They 
 are made of burnt Brick , every Brick being ten Foot fqu asd'j and three thick. The 
 Chronicles of the Country fay,> that thefe were the Ruines of the ancient Ba- 
 bylon. 
 
 We follow'd that Arm of Tigris that runs along the Coaft of Chaldea ; for fear 
 of falling into the hands of the Arabs , who were then at War with the Bajha of 
 Babylon , denying to pay the ordinary Tribute to the Grand Signor. We were ten 
 days upon the Water in our paflage from Bagdat to Balfara , and lay every night 
 upon the Water , drelfing our Victuals in the Bark. For when we came to any 
 Villages, we lent our Servants a-fhoar to buy Provifions, which we had very cheap. 
 Now the Towns we met with upon the Shoar were thefe. Amurat, where there 
 flood a Fort of Brick bak'd in the Sun ; Manfoury, a great Town •, Magar, Gater^ 
 and Gor/w. At this laft place Euphrates and Tigris meet together : where are alio 
 three Caftles to be feen-; one upon the Point where the two Rivers meet , which is 
 the ftrongeft , and where the Son of the Prince of Balfara then commanded \ the 
 fecond upon Chaldea fide •, and the third upon Arabia fide. Though the Cuftoms be 
 there exactly demanded , and paid , vet they never fearch any perfon. The Tides' 
 eome up to that place : fo that having but fifteen Leagues to Balfara , we got thither 
 in fev'n hours , having both Wind and Tide. 
 
 All the Country between Bagdat and Balfara is inter-cut and parted by Dikes, 
 like the Low Countries • the two Cities, lying a hundred and fixty Leagues one from 
 
 the 
 
 * 
 
The Persian Travels Book II 
 
 the other. It is one of the beft countries in the pofleflion of the Grand Stgnor , 
 being ftor'd with large Meadows and excellent Pafturage , where are bred infinite 
 numbers of Beafts, elpecially Mares and Bufalo's. The Female Bufalo's go twelve 
 Months, and yield fo much milk, that there are fome which will give two and 
 twenty Pints. And there isfo large a quantity of Butter made, that in lbme Vil- 
 lages upon the Tigris, we fawfometimes five and twenty, fometimes twenty Barks 
 lad'n with Butter , which the people fell all along the Gulf of Per fin , as well upon 
 Arabia, as Verfia fide. 
 
 Half the way between "Bagdat and Balfara , we perceiv'd feveral Pavilions fet 
 up in the Meadows along by the fide of the River. Upon enquiry we heard that 
 the Tefterdar was come from Conftantinople to gather the Grand Signor'% duty's. For 
 from Bagdit to Gorno , for all the Bufalo's as well Male as Female , there is to be paid 
 a Piaflcr and a quarter for every head once a year •, which is worth yearly to the 
 Grand Signor a hundred and fourfcore thouland Ptafters. Every Mare alfo pays two 
 Piajiers, every Sheep ten Som; which if the Country people were not very cunning, 
 would be worth fifty thouland Piajiers more than it is. 
 
 After this we came to Gorno, a Fortrefs upon the point where the two Rivers meet , 
 befides two other fnlall Caftles upon each fide , fo that there is no palling without 
 leave. Upon the Fort of Gorno which was well furnifh'd with Cannon , we law the 
 Prince of Balfara's Son , who was Governour of the Fort. . And here it is that the 
 Account of the Cuftoms is taken. But though they are very exaft in fearchingthe 
 Barks , they are very civil , for they fearch no body. However left any Goods 
 fhould be hid between the Planks of the Ships , over which they generally throw Fa- 
 gots and Canes, the Cuftomers bring a great Piercer , with which they bore the fides 
 of the Bark quite through for the difcovery of conceal'd Goods. The Goods are 
 Regifter'd at Gorno, but the Cuftoms are always paid at Balfara, according to 
 the accompt giv'n from the Fort. 
 
 The fame day entring into the Channel that is cut out of Euphrates to Balfara , 
 we met the chief of the Holland Fa&ory taking his plealure in a Boat cover'd with 
 Scarlet , who took me with him to Balfara. 
 
 Halfara ftands upon the fide of Arabia deferta , two Leagues from the Ruines of 
 a City , which was formerly call'd Teredon , and anciently ftood in the Delert , to 
 which the Water was formerly conveigh'd out of Euphrates in a Brick Channel ftill 
 to be feen. 
 
 By the Ruines it appears to have been a great City , from whence the Arabians 
 fetch away the Bricks and Fell them at Balfara. The City of Halfara is half a 
 League from Euphrates , which the Arabians in their Language call Shetel-arcb , 
 or the River of Arabia. The Inhabitants of the City have made a Channel to it 
 about half a League long , which bears VelTels of 150 Tun at the end where- 
 of ftands a Fort, fo that noVefTel can get into the Fort without leave. The Sea is 
 above fifteen Leagues off, but the Tide comes up to the Channel , and fills the River 
 other fifteen Leagues upward beyond Gorno. The Country is fo low , that were 
 it not for a Dam that runs along the Sea-lhoar , it would often be in danger of being 
 drown'd. The Dam is above a League in length, and built all of Free-ftone fo ftrong, 
 that the fury of the waves can do them no injury,though it lie open to a Boyftrous Sea. 
 
 It is not above a hundred years fince Balfara belong'd to the Arabians of the Defert, 
 and had no commerce with the Nations of Europe. For thofe people were contented 
 to eat their own Dates, having lo great a quantity, that they only live upon them. 
 'Tis the fame thing all along the Gulf on each fide for from Halfara to the River 
 Indus for above fix hundred Leagues together , and all along the Coaft of Arabia to 
 Mafcate , the poor fort of people know not what it is to eat Rice, but live upon 
 Dates and Salt-fifh dry'd in the wind. The Cows eat no Grafs, and though they 
 go abroad in the fields, they find little or nothing among the bufhes which is 
 proper for them to eat. But every Morning before they drive them to the 
 Field , and when they return home , they give them heads of fifh and Date-nuts 
 boil'd together. 
 
 The Turks having had War with the Arabians took Balfara ; and yet becaufe 
 the Arabians always hover'd about the Town , and made booty of all they could lay 
 their hands on , they were fore'd to come to an agreement with them , that the Arabs 
 fliould quietly enjoy all the Defert 'till withfa a League of the City, and that the 
 
 Turks 
 
Chap. VIII. of Monfieur TavernIer. 89 
 
 Turks {hould remain peaceable Mafters of the City, where they have xBafha for 
 Governour. But this Treaty endur'd not long for in the middle of the City there 
 is a Cittadel, call'd Aujhel Bafia, or the Baflia's Court , which the Turks built; fo 
 that the Garrifon being Turks and the Inhabitants Arabians , who could not endure 
 to be curb'd , they oft-times quarrell'd with the Turks and came to blows. There- 
 upon the Arabians of the Delert came to the relief of the Citizens and befieg'd the 
 B.tfia in the Fortrefs. At length becaufe there could be no fuch agreement made <» . 
 but that one party or other took an occafion prefently to break it* there was one 
 B'ajha whofe name was^W, who after many contefts and revolts which hadalmoft 
 tyr'dhim, refolv'd to rid himfelf of the trouble, and ibid his Government for forty 
 thoufand Puifors to a rich Lord in the Country , who prefently rais'd a fufftcient 
 number of Souldiers to keep the people in awe. This great martfook upon him the 
 name of Bfrafias Baflia , being the Grandfather of Huffen Baflia , who was Gover- 
 nour at the time when I pafs'd through before. This Efrafias threw off the T urkiflt 
 yoak , and took upon him the title of Prince of Balfara. As for the Bajha that fold 
 his Government , he no fooner arriv'd at Confiantinople , but he was ftrangl'd. But 
 alter Amurath had taken Bagdat , the Prince of Balfara was glad to feed him conti- 
 nually with Prefents that chiefly confifted in Horfes , which are very beautiful in that 
 Country. The Great Sha-Abas having taken Ormuij fent a powerful Army under 
 the Command of Iman-KoulLKan Governour of Shiras,to take in Balfara. Whereupon! 
 the Prince finding himfelf too weak to refill fo great a Pow'r, made an agreement with 
 the Defert Arabians to break down the Dam that (tops the Sea. Which being per- 
 form'd , in came the Sea tumbling fifteen Leagues to Balfara $ and four Leagues be- 
 yond it, which conftrain'd the Terfians, furrounded with water, and hearing at 
 the lame time ofthe death ofSba-Abas^toratic their Siege.Since that inundation,feveral 
 Lands and Gardens have been utterly barren , or have born very little , by reafon of 
 the Salt which the Sea has left behind. 
 
 The Prince of Balfara has enter'd into Leagues with feveral ftrange Nations , fo 
 that whencefoever you come , you may be welcom. There is fo much liberty and fo 
 good order in the City, that you may walk all night long in the Streets without mo- 
 leftation. The Hollanders bring Spices thither every year. The Englifb carry Pepper 
 and fomefew Cloves - , but the Tortugals have no Trade at all thither. The Indians 
 bring Calicuts, Indigo, and all forts of Merchandize. In fliort, there are Mer- 
 chants of all Country's, from Confiantinople , Smyrna , Aleppo, Damafcus, Cairo, 
 and other parts of Turkic , to buy fuch Merchandizes as come from the Indies, with 
 which they lade the young Camels which they buy in that place; for thither the 
 Arabians bring them to put them tofale. They that come from Diarbcqnir , Moh- 
 jful, Bagdat , Mefopotamia , and AJJyria , fend their Merchandizes up the Tigris 
 by Water , but with great trouble and expence. In regard the Boats are to be tow'd 
 by men , that cannot go above two Leagues and a half in a day , and againfl the 
 Wind they cannot ftir , which makes them oft-times between 'Balfara and Bagdat 
 to be above fixty days , nay there have been fome that have been three months upon 
 the Water. 
 
 The Cuftoms of Balfara amount to five in the hundred , but generally you have 
 fome favour fhew'd you, either by the Cuftomer or the Prince himfelf, that the 
 Merchant does not really pay above four in the hundred. The Prince of Balfara is 
 fo good a Husband , that he lays up three millions of Liutrs in a year. His chiefeft 
 Revenue is in four things , Money, Horfes, Camels, and Date-trees-, but in the 
 lad confifts his chiefeft wealth. For all the Country from the meeting of the two 
 Rivers to the Sea,for the fpaee of thirty Leagues together,is all cover'd with thefeTrees- 
 nor does any one dare to touch a Date , 'till he has paid for every Tree three fourths 
 of a Larin , or nine Sous French. The profit which the Prince makes upon money , 
 proceeds from this, that the Merchants that come from abroad are oblig'd to carry 
 their Reals to his Mint , where they are Coyn'd and converted into Larins , which 
 is worth to him eight in the hundred. As for his Horfes, there is no place in the 
 world , where there are more fit for travel ^ or handfomer fhap'd for there are 
 fome that will travel thirty hours together and never draw bit , efpecially the 
 Mares. But to return to the Palm-trees it is worth obfervation , that there is more 
 Art to bring up thoie Trees than any other. The Natives dig a hole in the ground, 
 wherein they heap a great quantity of Date-nuts in a Pyramidical form, the top 
 
 M whereof 
 
90 The Persian Travels Book II, 
 
 whereof ends in one fingle Nut , which being cover'd with Earth produces the Palm- 
 tree. Mod of the people of the Country do fay, that in regard there is among the 
 Palm-trees the diftinc~tion of Male and Female , that therefore they muft be planted 
 one by another , for that oiher wife the Female Tree will bear no Fruit. But others 
 affirm that nicety to be unneceflaryj and that it fuffices, when the Male is in BlofTom 
 to take a Flower from the Male, and put it into the Heart of the Female a little 
 above the Stem for unlets they (hould do fo, all the Fruit would fall off before it 
 came to maturity. 
 
 There is at Balfara a Cady that adminifters Juftice , and who is eftablifhM by the 
 authority of the Prince that commands there. In the City are alfo three forts of 
 Chriftians , Jacobites, Nejlorians, and Chriftians of St. John. There is alio a Houfc 
 of Italian Carmelites ; and there was aHoufe of Portugal Anjlin-¥v'uvs , but they have 
 forfak'n the Town ever fince their Country-men quitted the Trade. 
 
 The Chriftians of St. John are very numerous at Balfara, and the Villages there- 
 abouts } who anciently liv'd by the River of Jordan, where St. John Baptiz'd and 
 from whom they took their Name. But fince the time that Mahomet conquer'd 
 Palefline, though Mahomet formerly gave them his Hand and his Letters of Pri- 
 viledge that they (hould not be molefted, neverthelefs they that fucceeded the 
 falfe Prophet refolv'd to extirpate them all-, to which purpofe they ruin'd their 
 Churches , burnt their Books , and exercis'd all manner of cruelties upon their Per- 
 fons: which oblig'd them to retire into Mtfoptamia and Chaldea, and for fome time 
 they were under the Patriarch of Babylon , from whom they feparated about a 
 hundred and fixty years ago. Then they remov'd into Perfia and Arabia , and the 
 Towns round about Balfara ; as Sonter, Defpoul , Rnmez. , Bitoum , Mono, Endecan, 
 Calafabat, Avez.a, Dega, Dorech, Mafcjuel, Gumar, Carianovu, Balfara, Onez.er, Zech, 
 Loz.a. Nor do they inhabit City or Village by which there does not run a River. 
 And many of their Bifhops have affur'd me , that the Chriftians in all the foregoing 
 places make above five and twenty thoufand Families. There are fome among them 
 who are Merchants but the moft part of them are Trades-men , efpecially Gold- 
 fmiths, Joyners, and Lock-fmiths. 
 
 Their Creed is full of fables and foul errours. The Per fans and Arabians call them 
 Sabbi , a People that have forfak'n their own Religion , to take up a new one. In 
 their own Language they call themfelves Mendai Jahia, or 'Difciples of St. John, 
 from whom , as they afcertain us , they have receiv'd their Faith , their Books , and 
 their Traditions. Every year they celebrate a Feaft for about five days , during 
 which time they go in Troops to their Biftiops, who Baptize them according to the 
 Baptilm of St. John. 
 
 They never Baptize but in Rivers , and only upon Sundays. But before they 
 go to the River they carry the Infant to Church , where tnere is a Biftiop who 
 reads certain Prayers over the Head of the Child from thence they carry the Child 
 to the River, with a Train of Men and Women, who together with the Bifhop 
 go up to the knees inWater.Then the Bifhop reads again certain Prayers out of a Book 
 which he holds in his Hand , which done he fprinkles the Infant three times, faying, 
 Beeftnebrad er-Rabi, Kaddemin, Akreri, Menhal el gennet Alii Koulli Kralekj, or, In the 
 Name of the Lord, fvrft andlaft of the World and of Paradife , the high Creator ef all 
 things. After that, the Bifhop reads fomething again in his Book, while the God- 
 father plunges the Child all over in the Water after which they go all to the Parents 
 Houfe to feaft. If any tax their Baptifm for inefficient, in regard the Three Perfons 
 of the Divinity are not nam'd therein , they can make no rational defence for them- 
 felves. Nor have they any knowledge of the Myftery of the Holy Trinity, only 
 they fay that Chrift is the Spirit and Word of the Eternal Father. They are fa 
 blind as to believe the Angel (fabriel to be the Son of God, begotten upon Light} 
 yet will not believe the Eternal Generation of Chrift , as God. Yet they confefs 
 he became Man , to free us from the Punifhment of Sin : and that he was conceiv'd 
 in the womb of a Virgin without the knowledge of Man , by means of the Water 
 of a certain Fountain which fhe drank of. They believe he was crucifi'd by the 
 Jews; that he rofe the third day ; and that his Soul afcending up to Heaven , his 
 Body remain'd on Earth. But like the Mahometans they corrupt their Faith, by 
 faying, that Chrift vaniuYd when the Jew came to take him, and that he deluded 
 their cruelty with his Shadow. 
 
 In 
 
Chap. VI fl. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 In the Euchariilthey make ufe of Meal or Flow'r, kneaded up with Wine and 
 Oyl : For, lay they, the Body of Chrift being compos'd of the two principal parts, 
 Flefh and Blood, the Flowr and the Wine do moft perfectly reprcfent them} 
 befides , that Chrift at his Supper made ufe of Wine onbi and not of Water. They 
 add Oyl , to fignifle the benefit we receive by his favourx>f the Sacrament , and to 
 put us in mind of our Love and Charity towards God and our Neighbour. To 
 make this Wine , they take Grapes dry'd in the Sun, which they call in their Lan- 
 guage Zebibes , and carting Water upon them , let them ftcep for lb long a time. 
 The fame Wine they ufe for the Confecration of the Cup. They make ufe of 
 Raifins, in regard they are more eafie to be had than Wine*, the Perfians. efpe- 
 cially the Arabians , under whole Government they live, not permitting, nor indeed 
 allowing them the ufe of it. Of all people that follow the Law of Mahomet , there 
 are none fo oppofite to other Religions, as thefe Perfians and Arabians about Balfara. 
 The words of their Confecration , are no other than certain long Prayers, which 
 they make to praife and thank God , at the fame time blefling the Bread and Wine, 
 never making mention of his Body and Blood } which they fay is not at all neceflary, 
 becaufe God knows their intentions. After all the Ceremonies are ended , the 
 Prieft takes the Bread , and having eaten fome of it , diftributes the reft to the 
 People. 
 
 As to their Bifhops and Priefts, when any one dyes , who has a Son , they choofe 
 him in his place - , and if he have no Son , they take the next a-kin that is moft 
 capable and beft inftrufted in their Religion. They that make the Election , fay 
 feveral Prayers over him that is elected. If he be a Bifhop , after he is receiv'd, and 
 that he go about to Ordain others , he ought to fall fix days , during which time 
 he continually repeats certain Prayers over him that is to be ordain'd Prieft , who 
 alfo for his part fads and prays all the faid time. And whereas I fay the Father 
 fucceeds the Son , it is to be obferv'd , that among the Chriftians in thofe Parts, 
 both Bifhops and Priefts marry, as do the reft of the people •, only if their firft Wife 
 dye , they cannot marry another unlefs fhe be a Virgin. Moreover , they that are 
 admitted to Ecclefiaftical Functions, muft be of the race of Bifhops or Priefts ^ and 
 their Mothers muft have been always Virgins when they were marry'd. All their 
 Bifhops and Priefts wear their Hair long , and a little Crofs wrought with a 
 Needle. 
 
 When there is any Wedding to be , the kindred and perfons invited go toge- 
 ther with the Bridegroom, to the Houfe where the Bride lives. Thither comes 
 the Bifhop alfo, and approaching the Bride, who is fitting under a Canopy, he 
 asks her if fhe be a Virgin. If fhe anfwer that fhe is fo , he makes her confirm it 
 by an Oath. After which he returns to the Guefts , and fends his Wife with fome 
 other skilful Women to make an inflection. If they find her to be a Virgin, the 
 Bifhop's Wife returns and makes Oath of if, and then they all go to the River, 
 where the Bifhop re-baptizes the Couple to be marry'd. Then they return toward 
 the Houfe, and making a flop before they come quite near it , the Bridegroom takes 
 the Bride by the Hand , and leads her feven times from the Company to the Houfe, 
 the Bifhop following them every time, and reading certain Prayers. After that 
 they go into the Houfe , and the Bride and Bridegroom place themfelves under the 
 Canopy, where they let their Shoulders one againft another , and the Bifhop reads 
 again , caufing them to lay their Heads together three times. Then op'ning a Book of 
 Divination , and looking for the moft fortunate day to confummate the Marriage, 
 he tells them of it. But if the Bifhop's Wife do not find the Bride to be a Virgin, 
 the Bifhop can proceed no farther , fo that if the young Man have ftill a mind , he 
 muft go to fome meaner Prieft to perform the Ceremony. Which is the reafon 
 that the people take it for a great difhonour to be marry'd by any other than the 
 Bifhops ; for when a Prieft marries, 'tis an infallible fign that the Bride was no Virgin. 
 The Priefts alfo, in regard they take it to be a great Sin for a Woman to marry 
 not being a Virgin , they never marry any fuch but by conftraint , and to avoid 
 enfuing inconveniencies for fometimes in defpite they will turn Mahometans. The 
 reafon of the Inflection is, that the Husbands may notbedeceiv'd, and to keep the 
 young Girls in awe. 
 
 As to what they believe touching the Creation of the World, they fay, that the 
 Angel Gabriel undertrking to create the World according to the command which 
 
 M 2 God 
 
'The Persian Travels Book If. 
 
 God gave him , took along with him three hundred thirty-fix thoufand Demons, 
 and made the earth lb fertile , that it was but to Sow in the Morning and Reap at 
 Night. That the lame Angel taught Adam to Plant and Sow , and all other neceflary 
 Sciences. Moreover thatjie fame Angel made the feven lower Spheres , the leafl 
 whereof reaches to the cWter of the World , in the fame manner as the Heavens 
 do , all contriv'd one within another. That all thefe Spheres are of different 
 Metals, the firft next the Center is of Iron, thefecondof Lead, the third of Brafs, 
 the fourth of Laten , the fifth of Silver , the fixth of Gold , and the feventh of 
 Earth. The feventh is that which contains all the reft , and is the chiefeft of all , as 
 being the moft fruitful and profitable to Man j and the moft proper topreferve Man- 
 kind, whereas the reft feem rather to be fram'dfor its deftruction. They believe 
 that over every Heaven there is Water, whence they conclude that the Sun fwims in a 
 Ship upon that Water, and that the Maft of his Ship is a Crofs, and that there are a 
 great number of Boys and Servants to guide the Ships of the Sun and Moon. 
 Befides, they have the Picture of a Barque, which they fay belong'd to the Angel 
 Bacon , whom God fends to vifit the Sun and Moon , to fee whither they move right 
 or no , and keep clofe to their duty. 
 
 In reference to the other World and life to come , they believe there is no other 
 World , but where Angels and Devils , the Souls of good and bad refide. That in 
 that World there are Cities , Houfes, and Churches, and that the Evil Spirits have 
 alfo Churches, where they pray, finging and rejoycing upon Inftruments, and 
 Feafting as in this World. That when any one lies at the point of death , three 
 hundred and fixty Demons come and carry his Soul to a place full of Serpents, Dogs, 
 Lyons, Tygres, and Devils', who, if it be the Soul of a wicked man, tear it in 
 pieces •, but being the Soul of a juft man , it creeps under the bellies of thofe Crea- 
 tures into the prefence of God , who fits in his feat of Majefty to judge the World. 
 That there are Angels alfo that weigh the Souls of Men in a Balhnce , who being 
 thought worthy , are admitted immediately into Glory. That the Angels and 
 Devils are Male and Female , and beget Children. That the Angel Gabriel is the 
 Son of God engender'd upon Light , and that he has a Daughter call'd Souret who 
 has two Sons. That the Angel Gabriel has feveral Legions of Demons under him , 
 who are inftead of Souldiers, and others that are his Officers of juftice , whom he 
 fends from Town to Town , and from City to City , to punifh the wicked. 
 
 In reference to Saints , they hold that Chrift left twelve Apoftles to Preach to the 
 Nations. That the Virgin Mary is not dead, but that fhe lives fomewhere in the 
 World , though there be no perfon that can tell where fhe is. That next to her 
 St. John is the chiefeft Saint in Heaven , and next to them Zacbarias and Elizabeth , 
 of whom they recompt feveral miracles and Apocryphal tales. For they believe 
 that they two begat St. John only by embracing } that when he came to be of 
 age they Marry'd him , and that he had four Sons which he begat upon the waters of 
 Jordan. That when St. John defir'd a Son , he pray'd to God, who drew him one out 
 of the water % fo that St. John had no more to do with his Wife but only to give her 
 the Child to bring up. That he dy'd a natural death, but that he commanded his 
 Difciples to Crucifie him after his death , that he might be like Chrift. Laftly , that 
 he dy'd in the City of F after , and that he was bury'd in a Chryftal Tomb , brought 
 by miracle to the City , and that this Sepulchre was in a certain Houfe near the River 
 Jordan. 
 
 They highly honour the Crofs, and fign themfelves with if, but they are very 
 careful of letting the Turks obferve them ^ and during their Ceremonies , they let a 
 Watch at their Church doors for fear the Turks fhould enter , and lay lbme unjuft 
 Fine upon them. When they have ador'd the Crofs , they take it in two pieces , 
 which they never put together again , 'till their Service rebegins. The reafon why 
 they lo adore the Crofs is drawn out of a Book which they have, Entitul'd The Di- 
 van. Where it is written that every day early in the Morning , the Angels take the 
 Crofs and put it in the middle of the Sun , which receives his light from it , as the 
 Moon alfo doth hers. Theyadd, that in the fame Book are Piclur'd two Ships, one 
 of which is nam'd the Sun , the other the Moon 5 and that in every one of thefe 
 Ships there is a Crofs full of Bells: And moreover , that if there were not a Crofs in 
 thofe two Ships , the Sun and Moon would be depriv'd of Light, and the Ships would 
 fuffer Shipwrack. 
 
 Their 
 
Chap. VI II. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 Their chief Feftivals are three. The one in Winter, that lafts three days , in 
 memory of our firft Parent and the Creation of the World. The other in the 
 Month of Augufl, that alio lafts three days, which is calPd theFeaft of St. J^w. 
 The third which lafts five days in June, during which time they are all re-baptiz'd. 
 They obferve Sunday , doing no work upon that day. They neither Fall nor do any 
 penance. They have no Canonical Books, but a great number of others that treat 
 of nothing but Witchcraft, in which they believe their Priefts to be very crafty , 
 and that the Devils are at their beck. They hold all Women to be unclean, 
 and that it is not at all available for them to come to the Church. 
 
 They have one Ceremony , which they call the Ceremony of the Hen, of which 
 they make great Accompt , which is not lawful for any to perform but aPrieftBorn 
 of a Virgin at the time of her Marriage. When a hen is to be kill'd, the Prieft 
 puts off his ordinary habit, and puts on aLinnen Cloth, girding his wafte with a 
 fecond , and throwing a third about his fhoulders like a Stole. Then he takes the 
 Fowl , and plunges it in the water to make it clean after which he turns toward 
 the Eaft and cuts off the head , holding the Body in his hand 'till it has bled out all the 
 blood. While the Hen bleeds , with his Eyes lifted up to Heaven , as if he were in 
 an extafie, he repeats in his own Language thefe words following : In the name of god, 
 may this flejh be profitable to all that eat of it ? They obferve the fame ceremony 
 when they kill Sheep. For firft, they cleanfe the place very carefully where the 
 Sheep is to be kill'd , wafhing it with water , and ftrewing it with boughs , nor is the 
 number of people fmall that afHfts at this Ceremony , as if it were at fome folemn 
 Sacrifice. If you .ask them why it is not lawful for the Laity to kill Fowls? They 
 anfwer that it is no more lawful for them to kill than to coniecrate them} and that is all 
 the reafon which they bring. They eat of nothing dreft by the Turks ; and if a 
 T %rk^ ask them for drink , fo loon as he has drank, they break the Cup. And to make 
 the Turks more hateful , they Picture Mahomet like a great Gyant , fhut up in Prifon 
 in Hell with four more of his Parents •, and they fay , that all the Turks are carry'd 
 into the fame place full of wild Beafts to be there devour'd. 
 
 They pretend all to Salvation. For fay they , after the Angel Gabriel had fram'd 
 the World by the command of God , he thus difcours'd him. Lord God , faid he , 
 behold I have built the World as thou didfi command me . It has pit me to a great deal of 
 trouble , and my Brethren alfo , to raife fuch high Mountains that feem to fuflain Heaven. 
 ^And who indeed was able to make way for Rivers through Mountains without vaji labour , 
 and to give every thin^ its proper place? Moreover , great God, by the aid of thy 
 power full Arm, we have brought the World to fo much perfection, that men cannot thinks 
 upon any thing needful for them, which is not to be found therein. Butinfteadof thatjatis- 
 fatlion which I ought to have for having accompli fir 'd fo greavaworkj, 1 find no reafon but 
 to be altogether grieved. When God demanding the caufe,the Angel Gabriel anfwer'd : 
 My God and Father , I will tell you what affiiils me ; becaufe that after the making of 
 the World as I have done , I fore fee that there will come into it a prodigious number of 
 Jews , Turks , Idolaters , and other Infidels , Enemies of your Name , who will be un- 
 worthy to eat and en\oy the Fruits of our Labours. To whom God thus reply'd : Never 
 grieve , my Son , there Jhall live in this World which thou hafi built , certain Chriflians 
 of St. John who fiuill be my friends , and jhall be all fav'd. Upon which the Angel 
 admiring how that fhould be ! What, faid he, will there not be fever al Sinners among 
 thofe Chriflians , and by confequence will not they be your Enemies? To whom God thus 
 concluded : That at the day of Judgment the Good fiwuld Pray for the Wicked, and by 
 that means they jhould be allforgivn , and obtain Salvation. 
 
 Thefe Chriftians have a ftrange Antipathy againftthe Blew Colour call'd Indigo, 
 which they will not fo much as touch. For certain Jews dreaming that their Law 
 fhould be abolifh'd by St. John , told it their Country-men. Which they under- 
 (landing , and feeing that St. John prepar'd to Baptize Chrift , in a great rage , 
 fetch'd a vaft quantity of Indigo, which they call Nillin their Language, and flung it 
 into Jordan. They add alfo that thofe waters continu'd unclean for fome time , and 
 had hinder'd the Baptifm of Chrift, had not Godfent his Angels with a large VefTel 
 of water, which he caus'd them to fill out of Jordan before the Jews had defil'd it 
 with Indigo for which reafon God particularly Curs'd that Colour. 
 
 CHAP, 
 
The Persian Travels Book II. 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 A Continuation of the %oad from Balfara to Ormus. 
 
 f ■ ""^He tenth of April we fet out from Balfara for B 'ander -Congo , for which 
 paffage we hir'd a Terrade or a Barque for the purpofe j for they which 
 || are laden with Dates are generally fo overcharg'd , that if a Storm riles, 
 JL they are in danger of being overlet. The River of Balfara is very dan- 
 gerous , by reafon of the Sands which alfo lie up and down the Perftan Gulf, and 
 are very prejudicial to Navigation in that place. On both fides the Gulf thatfepa- 
 rates Perfia from ^Arabia the Happy , live a fort of poor people that follow no other 
 Trade than fifhing fo poor, that when they bring fifh to your Veflel, they require 
 nothing for it but Rice \ and not the beft neither, but fuch courfe fluff as we feed 
 our Hens and Pigswithall. I gave them a Sack of thirty or forty pounds, and bid 
 them make merry with it , but they told me , they muft be careful how they fpent 
 fuch Rice as that , unlefs it were for their Sick, or at their Weddings •, fo that if 
 the reft of Arabia the Happy be like that , affuredly 'tis rather a moft unfortunate 
 Country. 
 
 There are feveral Ifles in the Perfian Gulf , but the chiefeft of all is the Ifle 
 of Baharen , where they fifh for Pearls , of which I have fpoken in its proper 
 place. 
 
 Near to the place where Euphrates falls from Balfara into the Sea , there is a little . 
 IQand, where the Barques generally come to an Anchor , in expectation of the wind. 
 There we ftay'd four days , whence to Bandar-Congo it is fourteen days Sail , and we 
 got thither the twenty-third of April. This place would be a far better habitation 
 for the Merchants than Ormus , where it is very unwholefom and dangerous to live. 
 But that which hinders the Trade from 'Bandar-Congo , is becaufe the Road to Lar 
 is fo bad, by reafon of the want of Water, and craggy narrow ways , which only 
 Camels can endure •, but from Ormus to Lar the Way is tollerable. We ftay'd at 
 Bandar-Congo two days , where there is a Portugais Factor , who receives one half of 
 the Cuftoms by agreement with the King of Perfia. By the way take notice , that 
 they who will go by Water from Ormus to Balfara , muft take the Natives for their 
 Pilots , and be continually founding befides. 
 
 The thirtieth , we hir'd a Veflel for Bander- Abaffi , and after three or four 
 hours Sailing, we put into a Village upon the Sea-fide, in the Ifland of Keck? 
 mifie. 
 
 Keckmijhe is an Ifland three Leagues about , and about five or fix from Ormus. It 
 exceeds in Fertility all the Iflands of the Eaft , that produce neither Wheat nor Bar- 
 ley j but at Keckmijhe is a Magazine of both, without which Ormus would hardly 
 fubfift , in regard it furnifhes that City with moft of their Provifion for their Horl'es. 
 There is in the Ifland a Spring of good Water , for the preservation of which , the 
 Terfians have built a Fort , leaft the Portugais when they held Ormus , fhould get it 
 into their Poffeffion. 
 
 In 164-1. aud 1642. the Hollanders falling out with the King of Perfia about their 
 Silk Trade, befieg'd this Ifland. For the Ambafladors of the Duke of Holflein com- 
 ing into Perfia , the Dutch were jealous that they came to fetch away all the Silk 
 and thereupon enhane'd the Market from forty-two to fifty Tomans. When the 
 Ambafladors were gone , the Dutch would pay no more than forty-four , which was 
 two Tomans more than they were us'd to do. The King netl'd that they would not 
 ftand to their words , forbid that they fhoUld make fale of their Goods 'till they had 
 paid their Cuftoms, from which 'till that time they were exempted. Thereupon 
 the Hellanders befieg'd the Fortrefs of Keckmijhe , but the Heats were fo intolera- 
 ble , that they were fore'd to quit their defign with great lofs of their Men ; 
 and at length by great Prefents to the chief Courtiers , they obtain'd to pay no more 
 than forty-fix Tomans. 
 
 Larec is an Ifland nearer to Ormus than Keckrnifie , well inhabited , and fo ftor'd 
 with Stags and Hinds , that in one day we kill'd five and forty. 
 
 From Keckmipe we Sail'd for Ormus , where we arriv'd the firft of May. I had 
 
 put 
 
Chap. X. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 put my choiceft Goods in a Cheft directed for the Hollaad Commander at Ormtu , by 
 which means 1 gottheCuftom free. 
 
 The Perfian Gulf is the moft dangerous Gulf I know , by reafon of the fhallow- 
 nefs and fharp Promontories that point out into the Sea-, and therefore the beft way 
 is to take a Pilot at Ormns or Bander-Congo , and the moft proper Pilots are the Fifher- 
 men, who are only skill'd in that Sea and no farther. The Soy I about the Perfan 
 Gulf is dry Sand and without Water, fo that it is impoflible to Travel by Land from 
 Ormns to Balfara. The Merchants would be glad to find a way through theCoaft 
 of Arabia, to get to Mafcate , whence there might a cut be made to Sindi, Din, 
 or Swat, which are the three chief Ports of India. During the difference between 
 the King of Terfia and the Hollanders, the Emir of Vodana an ^Arabian Prince, 
 offer'd to fhew them an eafie Road from Mafcate to Balfara. But the Hollanders 
 fearing to break with the King of Terfia, where they vended above fifteen or 
 fixteen hundred thoufand pounds of their Pepper, and paid therewith for all their Silk, 
 did not think it worth their while to quit Ormns to fettle themfelves at Maf- 
 cate. 
 
 Had it been yielded to , the way had been from Balfara to Elcatif a Sea-Town 
 in Arabia the Happy , where there is a Fifhery for Pearls that belongs to the Smir 
 of Elcatif. From Elcatif to Mafcalat , another City of Arabia, anclthe refidence 
 of another Emir. From Mafcalat to Vodana, a good handfomCity featedupon the 
 meeting of two little Rivers that carry Barques to the Sea , and run together by the 
 finglenameof Moyefur. The Soyl about Vodana produces no Corn , and very little 
 Rice but it abounds in Fruits , efpecially Prunes and Quinces , which are not fo 
 four as ours, and are eaten by the Natives as Pears. There are extraordinary good 
 Melons and great Store of Grapes, of which the Jews , who inhabit the beft part of 
 the City, are permitted to make Wine. From Vodana to the Gulf, the County 
 of each fide is full of Palm-Trees , the Dates being the Food of the common people, 
 who have not Money to buy either Corn or Rice. From Vodana to Mafcate it is 
 but fifteen Leagues, though by the Maps, which are Erroneous, the way is defcrib'd 
 to be much longer. 
 
 Being at Ormns , the Emir of Vodana (hew'd me a Pearl tranfparent and perfectly 
 round , that weigh'd feventeen Abas , or fourteen Carats and feven Eights ; for in 
 all the Pearl Filheries of the Eaft they ufe no other weights but Abas , which make 
 feven Eights of a Carat. I offer'd him 300000 Piaflers, or 60000 Roupies for the 
 fame Pearl , but the Emir refus'd to take it, telling me that he had been offer'd 
 more Money for it by feveral Princes of Afia , who had fent to him to buy it , but 
 that he was refolv'd never to part with it. 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Of the Authors firft Voyage i and the adventures of four French- 
 men. 
 
 I Departed out of Paris in the year 1657, and Embark'd at MarfeiHes for 
 higorn. 
 We fetSail from Ligorn feven Veflels together, two bound for Venice, one 
 for Conftantimple , one for Aleppo , and three for Smyrna, in one of which be- 
 ing a Dutch Veflel I Embark'd. But before I leave Smyrna, to begin my Journey 
 from T wis , give me leave to relate the ftory of four French-men , the various acci- 
 dents whereof will much enlight'n the ReadeT into the Cuftoms and Manners, as 
 well of the Turks as Per fans. 
 
 While I ftay'd the departure of the Caravan, which could not be ready in five or 
 fix Weeks, as alfo upon the advice of a rich Jew and a Merchant of Jewels at Conftan- 
 tinople, who had feveral Pearls to fell , as well for their beauty as their bignefs , the 
 beft Commodity a man can carry to the Indies , I fent to Conflmtinoplc a perfon that I 
 
 carry'd 
 
9 6 
 
 The Persian Travels Book II. 
 
 carry'd along with me , one that was well vers'd in that fort of Commodity. There 
 was a Norman Gentleman nam'd de ReviRe then at Smyrna, who would needs accom- 
 pany my Factor , lb that they went both together in a VefTel that carry'd the French 
 Ambaflador and his Lady to Confiantinople. This Gentleman had two or three thou- 
 fand Ducats in his Purle , wanting neither wit nor courage , befides a good pretence , 
 but perhaps he was more hafty in his proceedings than the relerv'dnePs of that Coun- 
 try requir'd. He had left the Service of the Muscovites , thinking to find an employ- 
 ment in the Service of the Venetians at Candy ; but failing in his expectations , he re- 
 folv'd to travel into Perfia. While he was at Confiantinople , the Jews , who lay hold 
 upon all opportunities of gain, loon found out my Factory and befides the Pearls 
 which he defir'd to fee, they fhew'd him feveral other rich Stones to try whether 
 they could draw him in-, for he had refus'd the Pearls becaule they held them at too 
 high a Rate. The Norman Gentleman fell into their acquaintance ; and picking out 
 the richeft, told him, that being refolv'd for the Indies-, he had a mind to lay 
 out four thoufand Ducats in Pearls. He added alfo , that he would pay him half in 
 Money , half in Goods , and at the fame time fhew'd the Jew two thoufand Ducats , 
 which the Jew had already devour'd with his eyes. Some four days after , the Jew 
 brought the Gentleman four fair Pearles with lbme Emraulds} and you may be Pure 
 they eafily agreed upon the price, in regard the Gentleman had a defign to put a 
 trick upon the Jew. Thereupon he fhews his Ducats a lecond time , which the Jew, 
 who thought he had a Cully , prefently told out as his own. After that the Jew 
 defiling to fee the Goods, which made up the other part of the payment, the Gen- 
 tleman without any more ado told him, that all the Merchandize, which he had to 
 pay him , was a good ftrong Quartan Ague which had held him a long time , and 
 indeed fuch a one, that he could not poffibly meet with a better,but that he would not 
 over-rate it, in regard he ask'd but two thoufand Ducats for it. The Jew who 
 was rich and in great credit at Court , was Po incens'd at his raillery, that he had 
 like to have made a wicked ftir about it. For as he had heard him lay, that the 
 Gentleman was going into the Indies and Perfia, he might have eafily caus'd him to 
 have been apprehended for a Spy. But in regard the Jews can do nothing in point 
 of Trade without the affiftance of the French Merchants, he adviz'd with Pome of 
 them , who perfwaded him that it was an Act of folly , which it better became him 
 to excufe, and defir'd him to take his Goods again, and put up the bufmefs •, which 
 with much ado they perfwaded him to condelcend to. The Gentleman fearing leaft 
 the Jews underhand fhould do him a private mifchief , ftole away with what fpeed he 
 could , and return'd to Smyrna. 
 
 De Reville being thus return'd to Smyrna , put himfelf into an Almadier, which is a 
 fmall Veffel of War , that generally touches at Chio and Rhodes , being bound for 
 Cyprus , from whence there is always Pome convenience or other to get to Alexan- 
 dre! ta. From thence he went to Aleppo ; and while he ftay'd there he met with two 
 French men, the one whofe name was Neret , the other Htutin, who was an Ac- 
 comptant. They had four wooden Chefts full of falfe Stones ready Pet, by which 
 they flatter'J themPelves to be great gainers in Perfia. They went from Marfeilles to 
 Seyde , from Seyde to D .mas , hearing that there was an opportunity to Travel to 
 Bagdat with the Topigi-Bajhi. This Topigi-Bajli or chief of the Engineers, was 
 he that affiited Amurath in the taking of Bagdat, in recompence whereof the Grand 
 Signor gave him a Timor , or Lordfhip in Damas worth four thoufand Crowns a 
 year. Now it was his cuftom every year to vifit Bagdat , and to ftay there during the 
 Seafon , that there was any probability of the King of Perfia's befieging it which 
 SeaPon not lading above three or four Months , when that was over, he return'd to 
 Tkimas. He ufually had about thirty HorPe with him, with which he never made 
 it above eighteen or twenty days, taking the fhorteft cut directly through the 
 DePert , where the Arabs are commanded to bring him Victuals upon the Road. 
 And he is willing at any time when he has this opportunity , to conduct the Franks 
 that defire it that way , in regard they are never ungrateful to him for it. ThePe 
 two Franks therefore having defir'd that they might be taken into his Company, 
 the Topigi-Bajhi readily consented •, provided they could ftay 'till he went , which 
 would not be 'till two or three Months} with which anPwer they were well fatisfi'd. 
 But the two Franks had not ftav'd at Damas above Peven or eight days but they fell 
 acquainted with a Spahi , a Renegade of Marfeilles , who profFei'd to carry them 
 
 through 
 
Chap.X. of Mohfieur Tavernier. 
 
 through the Road of Mefopotamia , fa that they fhould be at Jjpahan before the 
 T opigi-Bajhi let out from Damas. Thereupon they privately departed out of Damas 
 without acquainting the Topigi-Bajhi , who understanding they were gone after the 
 courtefie he had offer'd them, was foenrag'd at their uncivillity , that he fent two 
 of his Arabian Servants directly through the Wild'ernefs to the Bajha of Bagdat, to 
 give him advice of two Franks that were to pafs that way , who were moft certainly 
 Spies , defcribing them withall from head to foot. 
 
 In the mean while the VNoFranks being arriv'd at Ourfa,the Spahi,as he had contriv'd 
 his own defign at Damas, goes to the Bajha of Ourfa, and informs him that he had con- 
 dueled thither two Franks , who could be no other than Spies. Thereupon the 
 Bajha feiz'd upon them and all their Goods, among the reft he laid his paws upon 
 feven hundred Piafters , of which the Spahi no doubt had his fhare. And this 
 may ferve for inftruction to Travellers to have a care how and with whom they Travel 
 mTurkie. 
 
 While the two French men were in hold at Our fa by one fort of Treachery , 
 the Norman Gentleman and his Companion arriv'd at Bagdat. But they had no 
 fooner fet their feet upon the fhore, when the Bafta verily believing them to be 
 the perfons , of whom the Topigi-Bajln had giv'n him notice , caus'd them to be 
 brought before him , and feiz'd upon their Goods and Letters , of which they had 
 feveral for the Conful of jileppo , and other rich Merchants for Perfia. The Bajha 
 fent for the Capuchins to read thofe Letters > but not believing them, he fent for 
 a Sicilian Phyfitian which he had in his Service, and his Treafurer who had been.a 
 Slave tak'n in Candy. But neither Phyfitian , Treafurer , nor Capuchins would in~ 
 terpret any thing in prejudice of the French men ; yet all that could not preferve 
 them from being fhut up in a Stable full of dung , and from being threaten'd to be 
 Shot out of a Cannon's mouth if they would not confefs the truth. Thereupon the 
 Capuchins and the Cadibeg'd him to iufpend his Sentence 'till the Arrival of the chief 
 of the Cannoniers, to which he readily confen ted. 
 
 When the Topigi-Bajhi came , the Bafia commanded the Prifoners to be brought 
 before him. But when the Topigi-Bajhi deny'd them to be the perfons, the Bajha 
 grew into fuch a rage , that he no lefs reproach'd the Topigi-Bajhi for Treachery , 
 than he had accus'd the others. Which fo incens'd the Topigi-Bajln on the other 
 fide , that he never left 'till he had obtain'd the releafe of the two French men j yet 
 Aotfo, but that the Bajlia would have his due*, fothat He ville was fore'd to leave 
 fome of his Ducats behind which the Jew fhould have had. 
 
 But now to return to Smyrna where I expected the Caravan for fome time in order 
 to my Journey into Perfia. Every thing being provided , we fet forward in the Road 
 for Tauris, which I have at large defcrib'd,nor was there any thing worthy obfervation 
 all the way. I will only take notice, that when we departed from Tocat , in re- 
 gard the heat was fo extream , we left the common Road toward the North , and 
 took the way through the Mountains, where there is always a frefh Breeze and ftore 
 of fhady Lanes. In many of which high Mountains we met with Snow , and abun- 
 dance of excellent Sorrel j and upon the tops of fome of thofe Mountains, we 
 met with feveral forts of fhells , as it had been upon the Sea fhore , which is very 
 extraordinary. From Eraerom We went to Cars from Cars we came to Erivan. 
 The Kan was not there then, being retir'd during the heat into the Mountains, a 
 days Journey from the City. His Lieutenant telling me that I could not well pafs 
 farther without paying my duty to the^w, I follow'd his advice, and found him in 
 his Tent in a fair Dale, where there was a great quantity of Snow : and where when it 
 began to melt, appear'd feveral beautiful Flowers, fo that Summer and Winter feem'd 
 to lodge both in the fame place.The^« entertain'd both me and all my Company moft 
 nobly for ten days. I drove alfo a fmall Trade with him. For I durft not fhew him 
 the rarities I had , being defign'd for the King. For as in India, fo in Perfia , nei- 
 ther will the King look upon any thing which his Subjects have feen before , nor will 
 the Subject buy any thing which the King has feen , it being an affront to prefent 
 any thing to the King which he had formerly view'd , and the Subject buys nothing 
 rare but what he intends to prefent. 
 
 Being paft Erivan you may leave your Caravan when yon pleafe., by reafon of the 
 fecurity of the Roads in Perfia. And indeed I intended to have vifited the Kan of 
 Genge'a, but finding the Road fo full of Rocks and Precipices, where a man was 
 
 N conti- 
 
98 The Persian Travels Book II. 
 
 continually in danger of breaking his Neck , I turn'd my Horfes head and met the 
 Caravan at Nacksivatt in the Road to Tanris. 
 
 From Tata-is to JJpabait I met with nothing worthy obfervation. When I came 
 to the Court I was well receiv'd by the King, and I fold him as many Jewels 
 and other Goods of great value , as came to fixty-two thoufand Crowns. But of 
 this more in another place. 
 
 THE 
 
Chap. I. ef Mohfieur Taverniu. 
 
 THE T H I <I^T> <B 0 0 ^ 
 
 OF THE 
 
 PERSIAN TRAVELS 
 
 6 F 
 
 Monsieur TAVERNIER: 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 The Author's Sixth and Laft VOTAGE, 
 
 And the j 
 
 ROADS 
 
 Through TV RKT into PERSIA, through 
 
 the Northern Provinces of EUROPE* 
 
 With a Defcription of feveral Countries lying upon 
 the Black i and Cajfrian S EAS. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 Of the Authors fixth and lafl Voyage from his fett'mg out of Paris, 
 to his Landing at Smyrna. 
 
 W Set out of Varis in the year 1663. for Lyons, with fix feveral Servants 
 of feveral profeffjons, which I thought mod proper for ray bufinefs. I 
 carry'd with me the value of about four hundred thoufand Livers , part in 
 Jewels, part in Goldsmiths work and other curiofities , which I defign'd 
 for the King of Perfia and the Great Mogul. Being at Lyons I bought a 
 Ma Steel Mirrour round and hollow , about two foot and a half in Diameter, 
 would immediately melt a Half-Crown by the heat of the Sun-beams: and 
 if youfet a Candle by it in the night,you might read two hundred Paces off in your 
 Bed by the refleftion. 
 
 From Lyons I rode to Marseilles, and fet Sail for Ligorn the tenth of January, 
 1664. in a fmall Bark, but being fcar'd by a great Veflell that we 'faw off at Sea, 
 we came to an Anchor in the Port of Agaie , two Leagues from Frejus , where 
 there ftood a pittiful Fort with two or three Houfes. There we alfo went afhore and 
 faw a Garden, the Alleys of which were diftinguifh'd with rows of Citron and Orange 
 Trees, which look'd as Green in the depth of Winter as in themidftof Summer, 
 with feveral other curiofities after the mode of Jtaly. We were no fooner got 
 aboard again , but we perceiv'd another Veffcl making into the fame Port with full 
 Sail. It was a Veflel which the Mafters of the Forein Office at Toulon , had fetout 
 
 N 2 to 
 
too 
 
 The Persian Travels Book III. 
 
 to force all Ships that were bound into Italy to pay certain Cuftoras , which thole 
 of Marseilles would not pay when they came intathe Port of Toulon. Thereupon 
 foreleeing that there would be mifchief done , I catt'd for my Httfe Chefts that con- 
 tainM my Goods of greateft value , carrying lbme part my felf , and giving the 
 reft to one of my moft trufty Servants , thinking to have skipt into a Genoa Bark 
 that lay hard by us •, but inftead of leaping a-board , I fell into the Sea : where by 
 rcafon of the Tumult I had perifh'd without relief, had I not by good fortune laid hold 
 of a Cable and redeem'd my felf. At what time one of my Servants luckily coining to 
 my ayd , with much ado drew me up fafe again. 
 
 Having elcap'd this danger, I got a-fhoar with fuch of my Servants as I had 
 about me , and meeting with a Bark of Frontignan that carry'd Languedocl^W ine to 
 the Coaft of Italy, I hir'd him for Ligorn-, and'fetting Sail , we firft touch'd Villa- 
 franca, and afterwards at Monaco. 
 
 At Monaco I went a-fhoar , and went to wait upon Madam the Princefs , who 
 fhew'd me the Rarities in the Caftle •, among the reft, feveral pieces of extraordinary 
 Painting , feveral pieces of Clock-work and Goldfmiths-work. But among all her 
 Cuiiofities {he fhew'd me two pieces of Cryftal , about the bignefs of two Fiftseach, 
 in one of which there was above a Glafs full of Water, in the other a good quan- 
 tity of Mofs -j which were clos'd in by Nature when the Cryftal firft con- 
 geafd. 
 
 Monaco is a Caftle fituated upon a fteep Rock, advancing out into the Sea* 
 which advantage, together with others which it recedes from Art and Nature,renders 
 it one of the moft confiderable Forts in Italy. 
 
 The next day finding the Frontignan-\ 'effel to be deep laden , and that it made little 
 way, I took a Faluke , and kept along by the Shoar , which was moft pleaiantly 
 adorn'd with beautiful Villages and Houfes , as far as Savona ; where I chang'd my 
 Faluke , to compleat the reft of the way which I had to Genda, Half the way we 
 did very well , but the Wind riling , we were forc'd to put in to a great Town, 
 where we landed*, and from thence, having but nine Miles, I got in good time by 
 Horfe to Genoa. There can be no Profpett certainly more pleafing than that nine 
 Miles riding. For on the one fide you fee nothing but a continu'd Row of magni- 
 ficent Buildings and lovely Gardens *, on the other a calm Shoar , upon which the 
 Waves feem not to beat , but lovingly to kifs. 
 
 Arriving at Genoa , I met with the reft of my Servants *, and at the end of two 
 days I embarqu'd for Ligorn , where we arriv'd in four and twenty hours. 
 
 From Ligorn I went to the Court of Florence, to wait upon the Grand Duke. By 
 whom I had the honour to be admitted into his Chamber, where I found no body 
 attending but one Mute, who had a long time ferv'd his Highnefs : and I obferv'd that 
 they underftood one another by Signs , as perfectly as if the Mute had had his Speech 
 and Hearing. So that when-ever the Duke fent him into his Clofet for any Papers 
 or other thing whatfoever, he never fail'd to bring the right. 
 
 After I had tak'n my leave of the Duke, he fent me a noble Prefent of Wine 
 and Fruits ; but that which I valu'd more than all the reft, was a Cafe of Medicaments 
 and Counter-poyfons , in the compofition whereof the Italians are very exquifite. 
 And yet they did me no fervice*, for when I came into the hot Countries their 
 fermentation was fo ftrong, that all the Oyls and Treacles broke their feveral Boxes, 
 that I could fave nothing of that precious Prefent. 
 
 The next day, being the twenty-fixth of March 1664, I embarqu'd with all my 
 Servants in a Dutch VefTel call'd The Jnfltce. 
 
 The twenty-feventh we ftaid in the Road , expecting the reft of the Fleet , con- 
 fiding of eleven Ships, two Men of War, and nine Merchant-men-, four of which 
 were bound for Smyrna , three for Ancona , and two for Venice. About feven that 
 evening we fet Sail , and all that night the Wind was favourable , but blew hard and 
 veer'd often*, which was the reafon that two of our Fleet feparated from us, fleering be- 
 tween the Ifle of Elbe and Corjica, while we kept on between the Ifle of Elba and Italy. 
 
 The twenty -eighth by eight in the Morning we found our felves between Porto 
 Ferraro and Piombim , and it being fair Weather , we had a pleafant profpeft of 
 thofe two places. From thence we fteer'd between two Hands , the one call'd PaU 
 tnajola , the other being namelefs. About fix hours after we faw Tortolongone, 
 afterwards at a diftance we defcry'd MonteJOhriflo. An hour after Noon we dif- 
 
 cover'd 
 
Chap. I. of Monfieur Tavernier 
 
 ioi 
 
 cover'd Cafiiglon-fere , all the reft of the day we coafted by the Hands of Gigio and 
 
 S.i Hit. 
 
 The twenty-ninth , with the fame Wind at North- Weft, by Morning we difco- 
 ver'd the Hands of Pontia and Palmerola , and about Evening thofe of Ventitione 
 and tfchia. Night approaching , and there being no news of the Ships we had loft, 
 inftead of making the Pharo of Mejfwa, it was refolv'd that we fhould fteer a 
 Courfe round about Meffina , where we expected to overtake them. At eleven a 
 Clock in the Evening we had but little Wind at North-North- Weft , fo that wc 
 made not above fourteen Leagues of way. 
 
 The thirty-firft the fame Wind continu'd, with a high Sea*, but about nine at 
 Night the Wind chopping about to the Weft , we kept our former Courfe. 
 
 The firft of April, by eight of the Clock in the Morning we difcover'd the three 
 Hands that lye before Trepano, Levanz.o, Maretima, and Favagna. 
 
 The fecond and third the Weather was ill , and the Wind unconftant , fo that we 
 made but little way. 
 
 The fourth, by break of day we difcover'd the Hand of Pantalarea. 
 
 The fifth by Morning we found our felves within a League and a half of the 
 Coaft of Sicily, juft againft Cape Pajfaro, at what time , the Weather being fair , we 
 had a view of Mount Gibello , all cover'd with Snow. Doubling the Cape in the 
 Afternoon , we difcover'd the Coaft of Saragojfa. The fixth we had little or no 
 Wind. But the feventh in the Morning , the Weather being fair, we difcover'd 
 Cape Spmivento ; and the fame Wind continuing all that day, toward Evening wc 
 faiPd in view of other Hands of Calabria. 
 
 The eighth we found our felves near to Cape Borfano , and all the reft of the day 
 we faiPd in view of Cape Stillo and Cape delle CoUnne. 
 
 The ninth we made little way. But on the tenth in the Morning the Wind 
 coming about to the South , we found our felves at the Entry of the Gulf of Venice, 
 between Cape St. Mary arid the Coaft of Greece , where the Mountains were cover'd 
 with Snow. About ten of the Clock we tack'd to our own Courfe , while the Ships 
 that were bound for Venice and Ancona entred the Gulf. 
 
 The tenth by Morning wefawtwo little Iflands, the onecall'd Fauno, the other 
 Merlera , and were in fight of Corfu. About Noon , the Wind being at Eaft, we 
 kept out at Sea : and about Evening abundance of little Birds lighted upon our 
 Cordage, of which we caught enow to make a lufty Fricaflie. We alio caught four 
 Falcons, Owls, and good ftore of Turtles. 
 
 The eleventh and twelfth the Wind being at Eaft,we lay hovering about the Shoar, 
 without making any way. 
 
 The fourteenth and fifteenth having the Wind at North- Weft , we were two days 
 without feeing Land , yet we caught good ftore of Birds. 
 
 The fixteenth the fame Wind continuing , we found our felves*riear the Ifland of 
 Zattt. From eight in the Morning 'till three in the Afternoon we were bccalm'd *, 
 but then a good brisk Weft Wind carry'd away all our little Birds. 
 
 The feventeenth and eighteenth we were becalm'd. 
 
 The nineteenth in the Morning , the Wind being at North- Weft , we difcover'd 
 Cape Gullo, between Modon and Coron, in the Morea. 
 
 The twentieth , with the fame Wind that blew frefh, we found our felves by 
 Morning within two Cannon-fhot of Cape Matapan , which is the moft Southern Cape 
 of all Europe. About Noon the Wind coming full W'eft , in three hours we pafs'd 
 by the Point of the Ifland Cerigo. 
 
 The twenty-firft in the Morning, we difcover'd the Iflands of Caravi and Falconera 
 on the one fide, and Cape Schilli on the other hand. Two hours after, having a 
 frefh Gale at South-Weft, about Evening we were in view of the Ifland of 
 St. George. 
 
 The twenty-fecond though the Wind flackn'd , yet we made fome way, for in 
 the Morning we found our felves between the Ifland of Zea and the Morea, neat 
 to another Cape delle Colonne : afterwards we difcover'd the Ifland of Negropont, 
 and doubl'd the Cape three hours after Noon , having left fight of the Ifland of 
 Andros by ten in the Forenoon. 
 
 The twenty-third the Wind blowing frefh all the night , by morning we found 
 our felves near the Ifland of Ipfera, At noon we made the Point of the Ifland of 
 
 Chie, 
 
102 
 
 The Persian Travels Book III 
 
 Chio, near to the Land j and that night we came to an Anchor near the Caftle, being 
 becalm'd. 
 
 The twenty-fourth the Wind rofe at North- Weft, which blew us into the Port 
 
 of Smyrna. 
 
 The twenty-fifth we went a-fhoar , having had as quiet a paflage as ever I had 
 in my Life for twenty days together. 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 A Continuation of the Author s Jixth Toy age , as he travel' d from 
 Smyrna to lipahan. 
 
 WE ftaid at Smyrna from the twenty-fifth of April to the ninth of 
 June ; during which time there happ'nd fo terrible an Earthquake^ 
 that I had like to have tumbl'd out of my Bed. 
 The Caravan being ready to fet out for Tauris , I took with 
 me three Armenian Servants , befides thofe that I carry'd out of trance to ferve me 
 upon the Road. 
 
 We fet out of Smyrna upon Monday the ninth of June at three a Clock in the 
 afternoon. The Caravan rendevouz'd at Pont-garbajhi, three Leagues from the City, 
 confifting of fix hundred Camels , and almoft the fame number of Horfe. We let 
 out the next night, two hours after midnight. As for the Road I (hall fay nothing, 
 only relate fome PalTages that fell out by the way. 
 
 Being come to Erivan , the fourteenth of September we encamp'd in a pleafant 
 green place between the Caftle and the old Town •,. for we would not lye in the 
 Inn , becaufe we heard that feveral fick people lodg'd there. We ftaid there two 
 days*, during which time I refolv'd to wait upon the Kan , I found him in a Room 
 made in one of the Arches of the Bridge which is built over the River , which I 
 have defcrib'd already, with feveral Captains and Officers about him: when he had 
 ask'd me whence I came , and whither I was travelling , he caus'd a Glafs of Liquor 
 to be .fill'd me. After that I prefented him with a Profpe&ive-GIafs , fix pair of 
 ordinary Spectacles , twelve other pair of Spectacles that caft feveral Reflexions, 
 two little Piftols, and a Steel to ftrike Fire, made like a Piftol. All which pleas'd 
 him extremely well, cfpecially the Spe&acles, for he was fixty years of agc.Thereupon - 
 he commanded a Lamb, Wine, Fruit, and Melons to be carry'd to my Tent, and 
 that I fhould wa#t nothing. After that we fate down to Dinner, but I obferv'd 
 the Kan himfelf drank no Wine , though he prefs'd me to it. The reafon was, 
 becaufe he was an Agu , that is , one that had made his Pilgrimage to Mecca ; for 
 then it is not lawful to drink Wine, or any other inebriating Drink. After Dinner, 
 finding him in a pleafant humour , I refolv'd to complain to him of one of the 
 Cuftom-Officers about an injury he had done me. For it is ufual with the Cuftomer 
 in this place to op'n the Chefts of all the Merchants, both Turks and Armenians, to * 
 the end that if they have any thing of Rarity the Kan of Erivan may fee it : for 
 many times , he buyes what pleafes him beft to fend to the King. This Officer would 
 not excule me for his Cuftom , and therefore at my very firft arrival he would have me 
 to op'n my Chefts \ and becaufe I did not do it according to his Orders, he ask'd me 
 very rudely why I had not obey'd his Commands : I anfwer'd him as furlily,that I would 
 op'n my Cheft no where unlefs it were in the prelence of the King , and that as for him, 
 I knew him not : Upon that he threaten'd me , that if he did not find my Chefts 
 op'n the next day , he would op'n them by force ^ thereupon I laid no more , but 
 bid him have a care I did not make him repent of what he had done already. This, 
 was the ground of the Quarrel , and I was about to have complain'd to the Kan ; 
 but his Nephew intreated me for the love I bare him , not to fay any thing of it, and 
 promised to fend the Cuftomer to me to beg my Pardon , which he did , and the 
 Cuftomer was fore'd to crave it heartily. To avoid the fame inconvenience for the 
 future, I defir'd the Kan to give me hisPafport , to the end I might pafs Cuftom- 
 
 frec 
 
Chap.III. of Monfieuf Tavernier. 
 
 free through the Territories of his Government, which he freely and courteoufly 
 granted me : Come , faid he , and dine with me to morrow , and yen jhall have it. 
 
 The twenty-fixthof September we departed from Envan, and the ninth of Novem 
 her we came to Tauris , taking the ordinary Road. 
 
 At Erivan two of my Servants, the one a Watch-maker, the other a Gold -fmith, 
 dy'd I left them fick there , but caus'd them to be buried in the Church-yard 
 belonging to the tMvmenians* One of them dy'd in fifteen days , of a Gangrene, 
 which eat out his Mouth and Throat \ being the Difeale of the Country. Though 
 had the Armenians known that one of them had been a Proteftant , they would never 
 have allow'd him to have been bury'd in their Church-yard. 
 
 Here obferve the exalt juftice , wherewith the Perfians preferve the Goods of 
 Strangers. For the Civil Judge hearing of the death of the Watch-maker , caus'd 
 his Chamber to be feal'd up, to the end the Goods might be preierv'd for the 
 kindred of the deceas'd , if they came to demand them. I return'd to Tauris a 
 twelve-month after, and found the Chamber clofe feal'd up. 
 
 We ftaid twelve days at Tauris t during which time I refolv'd to attend the Kan 
 of Shamatjni , a frontier Town of Perfia toward the Cajpian Sea but I found him. 
 not there , in regard it was Harveft leaibn , at what time he goes to gather the 
 King's and his own Duties. 
 
 Two days journey on this fide Shamacjhi you pafs the Aras , and for two days 
 journey you travel through a Country all planted with white Mulberry-Trees-, the 
 Inhabitants being all Silk- Weavers. Before you come to the City, you mud crofs 
 over feveral Hills : But I think I fhould rather have ca'si'd it a great Town, where 
 there was nothing remarkable but a fair Caftle which the Kan built himfelf j I fpeak 
 of the time paft : For as I return'd from this prelect Voyage of which I now write, 
 when I came toTauris I underftood , that there had happen'd luch a terrible Earth- 
 quake in the Town as had laid all the Houles in a heap-, none efcaping that difmal 
 fubverfion, but only one Watch-maker of Geneva, and one more who was a Camel- 
 driver. I had leveral times defign'd to return into France through Mufcovy ; but 
 I durft never adventure , being certainly inform'd that the Muscovite never permitted 
 any perfon to go out of Mufcovy into Perfia , nor to come out of Perfia into Mytfi 
 covy. So that it was by particular connivence that that favour was granted to the 
 Duke of Holfteirfs Ambafladors. This laft time I was refolv'd to have try'd whe- 
 ther I could have open'd a Paflage from Perfia through Mnficwy into France , but the 
 Ruine of Shamaaui deterr'd me. 
 
 We departed from T curis the twenty-fecond of November, from whence to Caflian 
 we met with nothing confiderable , but only one of the Mi<\covite Ambafladors 
 upon his return into his own Country, with a fmall Retinue of fixty, bis Companion 
 dying at Ifpahan. 
 
 Upon Sunday the fourteenth of December taking Horfe by three of the Clock in 
 ttie morning , the Ice bearing very well , we came to Ifpahan about noon : but in 
 regard it was fhppery before day, and very plafliy after the Sunwasiip, the Journey 
 was both tedious and troublefom. 
 
 CHAP. I II. 
 
 Tlx <l{oad from Aleppo to Tauris, through Diarbequir and Van. 
 
 THere are two Roads more remaining to be defcrib'd } one through the 
 North part of Tnrkie , the other through the South. The firft through 
 Diarbtcfuir and Van , and i'o to T mris \ the fecorid through Anna , and 
 the fmall Defert leading to Bagdat. 
 I witi defcribe the firft of thefe Roads , and make a skip at the firft leap to Bir> 
 whither I have already led you in the Road from Aleppo. 
 
 From Bir or Beri , you travel all along the River Euphrates to Cacbeme. 
 From Cacheme you come to Milefara , where -you pay the Cuftoms of Qurfa, 
 
 when 
 
104 The Persian ^Travels Book III. 
 
 when you do not pals through the City, which amounts to four Piaflers for every 
 Horfe-load, , 
 
 From Milefara you come to the River Arz.Un.cha.ye, or, the Lion River , by 
 reafon of the rapidity of the Stream which falls into Euphrates. 
 
 From Arzlan-cbaye you go to Seuerak^ This is a City, water'd by a River, that 
 alfo falls into Euphrates. It is environ'd with a great Plain to the North, the Weft, 
 and South. The way which the Horfes , Mules , and Camels keep is cut through 
 the Rock like a Channel , tw6 Foot deep , where you muft alfo pay half a Piafler 
 for every Horfe-load. 
 
 From Seueral^you come to Bogaz.i f where there are two Wells, but not a Houfe 
 near \ and where the Caravan ufually lodges. 
 
 From Bogazi you come to Deguirman-Bogati , and from Deguirman-Bogaz.i to 
 Mirzatapa , where there is only an Inn. 
 
 From Afirz.atapa you come to Diarbequir , which the Turks call Car-emu. 
 
 Diarbequir is a City fituated upon a rifing ground , on the right fide of Tigris, 
 which in that place forms a Half-moon ^ the defcent from the Walls to the River 
 being very fteep. It is encompals'd with a double Wall \ the outward Wall being 
 ftrengthned with fixty-two Towers , which they report were built in Honour of 
 the fixty two Difciples of JESUS CHRIST. The City has but three Gates, 
 over one of which there is an Infcription in 6r«^ and Latin, that makes mention 
 of one Confiantine. There are in it two or three fair Piazza's, and a magnificent 
 Mofquee, which was formerly a Chriftian Church. It is furrounded with very decent 
 Charnel-houles , near to which the MoullaWs , Dervfs , Book-fellers and Stationers 
 do live , together with all thofe other people that concern the Law. About a 
 League from the City there is a Channel cut out of Tigris , that brings the Water 
 to the City : And in this Water are all the red Marroquins waih'd that are made 
 at Diarbequir, furpaffing in colour all. others in the Eaft : which Manufacture employs 
 a fourth part of the Inhabitants of the City. The Soil is very good , and yields 
 according to expectation ; there is excellent Bread and very good Wine , nor is there 
 any better Provifion to be had in any part of Perjia : more efpecially, there is a fort of 
 Pigeons which in goodnefs excel all the feveral kinds that we have in Europe. The 
 City is very well peopl'd , and it is thought there are in it above twenty thoufand 
 Chriftians. The two thirds are Armenians , the reft Neflorians , with fome few 
 Jacobites. There are alfo fome few Capuchins , that have no Houfe of their own, but 
 are forc'd to lodge in an Inn. 
 
 The Baflia of Diarbequir is one of the Viziers of the Empire. He has but an incon- 
 fiderable Infantry, which is not much requifite in that Country, the Curds and Arabs 
 which infeft that Country being all Horfe-men. But he is ftrong in Cavalry, being able 
 to bring above twenty thoufand Horfe into the Field. A quarter of an hours riding 
 on this fide Diarbequir there is a great Town with a large Inn , where the Caravans 
 that go and come from Perjia rather choofe to lye than at Diarbequir; in regard that 
 in the City-Inns , they pay three or four Piaflers for every Chamber , but in the 
 Country-Inns there is nothing demanded. 
 
 At Diarbeejuir, you crofs the Tigris , which is always fordable unlefs when the 
 Snow and Rains have fwell'd it •, for then you muft go a quarter of a League higher, 
 and crofs it over a great Stone-Bridge. Half a League on the other fide of Tigris 
 ftands a Village, with an Inn , which is the Rendevous of the whole Caravan, and 
 where they that firft come have time enough to provide themfelves for a Journey of 
 nine or ten days , as far as Be tlis . For though you may find Towns and Inns thick 
 enough upon the Road , yet there is no good Bread to be met with. 
 
 When the Caravan proceeds , the firft days journey is fourteen hours on Horfe' 
 back , and you come to lye at Shaye-batman, where you muft pay a Piafter for every 
 Horfe-load. 
 
 From Chaye-batman you come to Chikgran. 
 
 From Chikaran to Azeu , which you leave half a League from the great Road, 
 where the Toll-gatherers take their Toll $ which is four Piaflers upon every Horfe- 
 load. 
 
 From Azou you come to Ziarat ; from Ziarat to Zerqut t where you pay a Duty 
 of two Piaflers for every Horfe-load. 
 From Zerche to Cochakgn. 
 
 From 
 
Chap. III. of Monfieur Tavernier. 105 
 
 From Cochakan to Caravan , a bad Inn •, where you enter among the Mountains, 
 that being full of Torrents reach as far as Be tits. ' 
 
 From Carakan to Betlis , a City belonging to a Bey or Prince of the Country, the 
 mod potent and moft confiderable of all the reft } for he neither acknowledges the 
 Grand Signor nor the Per fan : whereas all the other Beys are Tributary either to the 
 one or the other. And it is the Intereft of thole two Potentates to correfpond with 
 him j for it's an eafie thing for him to ftop up the paffage from Aleppo to T w~ 
 ris , or from Tanris to Aleppo ; the Streights of the Mountains being lb narrow, 
 that ten Men may defend them againft a thoufand. Coming near Betlis you muft 
 travel a whole day among high fteep Mountains, that reach two Miles beyond, with 
 Torrents on each fide the way being cut out of the Rock on each fide , where there 
 is but juft room for a Camel to pafs. The City ftand& between two high Mountains, 
 equally diftant one from the other, and about the height of Montmartre. It is built 
 like a Sugar-loaf, the afcent being fo fteep on every fide, that there is no getting 
 to the top, but by wheeling and winding about the Mountain. The top of all is a Plat- 
 form, where (lands a Caftle well built, at the Gate whereof is a Draw-Bridge. Then 
 you pafs through two great Courts, and then into a third, oppofite to the Bey's 
 Apartment. It is very troublefom to get up to the top of the Caftle, and a Man 
 muft be very well Hors'd that does it. There is no other perfbn but the Bey and his 
 Efquire , who is permitted to ride up on Horfe-back. There is one Inn within the 
 City, and another as it were without , in which the Merchants rather choofe to 
 lye than in the other , by realbn that it is ready to be overflown when the Torrents 
 fwell , that run through every Street. The Bey , befide the ftrength of his Paffes, 
 is able to bring above five and twenty thoufand Horfe into the Field \ and a very 
 confiderable Body of Foot , compos'd of the Shepherds of the Country, who are to 
 be ready at a Call. I went to wait upon the Bey himfelf , and made him a Prefent 
 of two pieces of Satin , the one ftreaktwith Silver, and the other with Gold : two 
 white Bonnets , fuch as the Turks wear, very fine, and adorn'd with Silver at the top ; 
 together with a fute of Handkerchiffs , ftreak'd with Red and Silver. While I 
 ftaid with the Bey. who lent for Coffee for me according to the cuftom , a Courier 
 came to him from the Bajha of Aleppo, todefirehim that he would deliver up into 
 his hands a French Chirurgeon that was his Slave , having been tak'n in Candia ; 
 complaining withal , that he had run away from him with the value of three thou- 
 fand Crowns. The Bey, who underftood what belong'd to a Sanftuary, and was 
 relolv'd to protect the French-man , fchooPd the Meffenger fo feverely , that he 
 threaten'd to put him to death if he did not get him gone prefently •, charging him 
 to tell his Mafter withal , that he would complain to the Grand Signor of his info? 
 lence and that if he were ftrangl'd , he might thank himfelf. And indeed it 
 behov'd the Great Turk^ to keep fair correfpondence with him in regard that if the 
 Perftans fhould at any time befiege Van , the Grand Signor muft march through the 
 Bey's Country to relieve it *, who has Forces enow to oppofe him if he fhould be his 
 Enemy. 
 
 But to travel through the Country of the Curds is very pleafant : for if on the 
 one fide the ways are bad, and difficult to be travel'd , in other places you have a 
 profpeft of feveral forts of Trees, as Oaks and Walnuts, and not a Tree which ii 
 not embrae'd with a wild Vine. Below the Mountains, in the Level , grows the beft 
 Wheat and Barley in all the Country. 
 
 From Betlis, where you pay five Piajlers for every Horfe-Ioad , to Taduan , where 
 you pay two. 
 
 Taduan is a great Town within a Cannon-fhot of the Lake of Van, in fuch a part, 
 where Nature has made a Hav'n, fhelter'd from all the Winds being clos'd on all 
 fides with high Mountains, the entry into which though it feem narrow, is very 
 free. It is able to contain twenty or thirty great Barks and when it is fair Wea- 
 ther, and that the Wind ferves, the Merchants generally Ship off their Goods 
 from thence to Van : from whence it is but four and twenty hours fail , and a very 
 good paffage whereas by Land from T aduan to Van it is eight days journey on 
 Horfe-back. Returning back, you may alfo take Water at Van for Taduan. 
 
 From Taduan to Karmoufoe'. "*' 
 
 From Karmoufoe to Kellat. 
 
 From Kellat to Algiaonx, a fmall City, where you pay one Piafttr for every Load. 
 
 O From 
 
The P e rsi a n travels Book III. 
 
 From Agiaoax to Spanktiere. 
 From Spanktiere to Soiier. 
 From Soiier to Aroiche. 
 From Argiche to Qaiarakierpou. 
 From ^Hiara^ierpou to Perkeri. 
 From Perkeri to Zuarz.Az.in. 
 From Zuarz.az.in to Sonferat. 
 
 From Souferat to Devan$ where two Piajiers are gather'd for every Horfe-load, 
 or elfe you muft pay at 
 
 From Devan to , where there is a Duty of two Tomans and four Abaffis to 
 be paid for every Horfe-load. For though be in the Territories of the Grand 
 Signor, yet the Perfian Money is better hk'd than his own Coyn. 
 
 Van is a great City upon the fide of a wide Lake of the fame name. There is a 
 good Fortrels belongs to it, that is feated upon the top of a high Mountain which 
 ftands by it felf. There is but one fort of Fifh in the Lake, a little bigger than 
 a Pilchard , of which they take great ftore in the Month of April. For about a 
 League from the Lake there is a great River that is call'd Bendmahi , which de- 
 fending from the Mountains of Armenia, empties it felf into the Lake. Now in 
 March when the Snow melts and fwells the River , vaft numbers of thefe Fifh come 
 down the River into the Lake which the FHher-men obferving, fo flop up the 
 Mouth of the River that the Fifh cannot go back ; for elfe they would not ftay 
 above forty days} at which time they catch 'em up in wide-mouth'd Baskets at the 
 Mouth of the River,thinking to return it being lawful for any man to fifh.The people 
 drive a great Trade in thefe Fifh, tranfporting them into Perfia and Armenia ; for, 
 the Perfians and Armenians both, drinking Wine at the end of their Feafts, they 
 then bring this Difh to the Table for a relifhing-bit. The people of Van tell a 
 Story, how that there was a certain rich Merchant who farm'd the whole Fifhery, 
 paying a good fum of Money for it to the Bajha ; who thereupon ftri&ly forbad 
 any to fifh but the Merchant whereas before it was free for any man. But when 
 the Fifhing : feafon came , and that the Merchant thought to have caught his Fifh, 
 he met with nothing but Serpents. So that after that time the Fifhery was never 
 more farm'd. And there feems to be fomething in if, for the Bafta's, who are a 
 fort of people that will lofe nothing they can get , would be certain to farm the 
 Fifh again and again , were there not fome ftrange reafon to hinder it. There are 
 two principal Iflands in the Lake of Van\ the one call'd Adaketons, where there 
 ftand two Covents of the Armenians., Sourphague and Sourp-kara: the other Ifland 
 is call'd Limadafi , and the name of the Covent is Limquiliaft, all which Armenian 
 Monks live very aufterely. 
 
 From Van to Darcheck^ 
 
 From Darcheck^to Nuchas; it ftands in the Territories of a Bey of Curdifian, 
 being a paltry Village confiding of two or three little Floufes. Thefe Bey's are a 
 kind of particular Lords , upon the Frontiers of both the Empires of Turkie and 
 Perfia, who care for neither: for they lye lb lecure among the Mountains, that 
 there is no aflaulting them by force. The Curds in general are a brutifh fort of 
 people ; who though they ftile themfelves Mahometans , have very few MoullaWs to 
 inftrutt or teach them. They have a particular veneration for black Grey-hounds , 
 fo that if any perfon fhould be feen to kill one of them , he would be knock'd o'the 
 Head immediately. Neither does any one dare to cut an Onion with a Knife in their 
 prefence but it muft be fqueez'd between two Stones by him that intends to make 
 ufe of it •, fo ridiculoufly fuperftitious they are. 
 
 The Bey to whom Nuchar belongs has his Toll-gatherers in that place , who exaft 
 fixteen Abajfi's for every Horfe-load , befides a Prefent which the Caravan-Bafii 
 is oblig'd to prefent him , which comes fometimes to feven or eight Tomans , fome- 
 times more : for otherwife the Bey would be fure to Watch the Caravan at fome 
 fcurvy place, and plunder it to fome purpofe. As once it happen'd to a Caravan, 
 with which my Nephew went along in the year 1672-, though he had the good 
 luck to lofe nothing more than one Camel laden with Englijh Cloth , and another 
 with his Provifion. The Bafia of Van and the Kan of Tauris took the Field with an 
 intention to remedy thefe diforders : efpecially the Baflia of Van , who perceiving 
 that the Merchants would forfake that Road by reafon of the Injuries they dayly 
 
 > receiv'd, 
 
Chap. IV. of Motifieur T a v e r n i e r. 
 
 receiv'd , was refolv'd to make the BajJia reftore fome part of his Goods which he 
 had taken from the Merchants ^ and for the future to leave two of his Subjects in 
 Tauris, and two in Van , that fliould be relponfible for what mifchief fliould be done 
 to the Caravan. For otherwife the Merchants like this way beft, as being the neareft 
 from Aleppo to Tawis , and where they pay lefs Duties. 
 
 from Nuchar to Kutidar, is a long Journey through the Mountains by the fide 
 of feveral Torrents, which are to be crols'd in feveral places. This bad way brings 
 Fifty i'the Hundred profit to the Bey of Nuchar for were the Caravan to travel 
 through Plains, or a level Country, one Horfe or Camel would carry as much as two 
 or three , and the Merchant would pay Cuftom for no more. Here therefore the 
 Caravan-Bajhi and the Merchants mud underftand one another, and agree as cun- 
 ningly as they can together. 
 
 From Kuticlar to Kalvat. 
 
 From Kalvat to Kogia. 
 
 From Kogia to Darkavin. 
 
 From Darkavin to Soliman-Sera: all which four places are very convenient 
 Inns. 
 
 From Soliman-Sera to Kours .• in that City refides a Bey, who is tributary to the 
 King of Perfta. He lives in an ancient Caftle about half a League off, where the 
 Caravan pays nine Abajps for every Horfe-load , befides a Prefent. But that Prefent 
 confifts only in, Sugar-loaves, Boxes of Treacle, or Marmaledy for he ftands fo 
 much upon his Honour , that he fcorns to take Money. The Wine of kours is fweet 
 and tart. 
 
 From Kours to Devogli. 
 
 From Devogli to Checheme. About half way between thefe two places you crofs 
 a Plain , which upon the South extends it felf a League to the Mountains, but upon 
 the North fide enlarges it felf out of fight. Upon the High-way, on the left hand 
 ftands a Rock three hundred Paces in compafs , and about fourfcore Foot high round 
 about it were to be feen feveral Dens, which moft certainly had been the Habi- 
 tations of thofe that fed their Cattel thereabouts. Under the Rock, which is 
 hollow, appears a Fountain of clear cold Water , wherein there was great ftore of 
 Fifti * ? thoufands of which would come up to the top of the Water , when a man 
 threw any Bread into it. The Fifti had a great Head, and a large Muftache. I (hot 
 a Carbine into the River charg'd with Hail-ftiot , upon which they all difappear'd, 
 but prefently five or fix return'd wounded to the top of the Water, which we 
 eafily took. The Armenians laught at me for (hooting , believing it had been impof- 
 fible to catch them in that manner \ but they admir'd when they beheld them again 
 turning up their bellies at the top of the Water.The Turks and fome of the Armenians 
 would not eat of them , believing them to be defil'd : but the Armenians that had 
 been in Europe laugh'd at their Superftition , and fell to , when they were dreft. 
 
 From Checheme to Dayaftiler. 
 
 From Davajhiler to Mar and; a City where yoiimuft pay fixteen Ahaps for a 
 Camel's-ioad , and eight for a Horfes. 
 From Merand to Sefian. 
 
 From Sefian to T mris. Thefe are the two biggeft days journies throughout the 
 Road. 
 
 Returning out of Perfid this way, we could not get Bread for Money, fo that, 
 we were forc'd to give the Women fome Trifles which they Iov'd better. Though 
 the People are Mahometans , yet they will not fpare to drink luftily. 
 
 CHAP', 
 
1 
 
 108 The Persian Travels Book III. 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Another tf{oad from Aleppo to Tauris ? through Gezire and other 
 places. 
 
 !Rom Aleppo to Bir or Bert, where you mud crols Euphrates, days 4 
 From Bir to Oar fa, days 2 
 From Ourfa to Diarbeqnir, days 6 
 From Diarbeqnir to Gezire, days 4 
 Gezire is a little City of Mefopctamia , built upon an Ifland in the River TVirw ; 
 which is there to be crols'd over a fair Bridge of Boats. Here the Merchants meet 
 to buy Gall-nuts and Tobacco. The City is under the Jurifdiftion of a Bey. 
 
 Having paft the Tigris, all the Country between that and Tauris is almoll equally 
 divided between Hills and Plains} the Hills are cover'd with Oaks that bear Galls, 
 and fome Acorns withal. The Plains are planted with Tobacco, which is tranlported 
 into Turkic , for which they have a very great Trade. One would think the Country 
 were poor , feeing nothing but Galls and Tobacco but there is no Country in the 
 "World where there is more Gold or Silver laid out , and where they are more nice 
 in taking Money that is in the leaft defective either in weight or goodnefs of Metal. 
 For Galls being a general Commodity for Dying , and no where to be found fo good 
 as there , bring a vaft Trade to the Country :> wherein there are no Villages, yet it 
 is over-fpread with Houfes a Mufquet-fhot one from another ; and every Inhabitant 
 has his quarter of his Vineyard by himfelf, where they dry their Grapes : for they 
 make no Wine. 
 
 From Gezire to Amadii, days 2 
 Amadii is a good City, to which the Natives of a great part of Ajfyria bring their 
 Tobacco , and Gall-nuts. It is leated upon a high Mountain , to the top whereof 
 you cannot get in lefs than an hour. Toward the middle of the Rock three or four 
 large Springs fall down from the Cliffs, where the Inhabitants are forc'd to water 
 their Cattel and fill their Borachios every morning , there being no Water in the 
 City. It is of an indifferent bignefs, and in the middle is a large Piazza , where 
 all forts of Merchants keep their Shops. It is under the Command of a Bey that is 
 able to raife eight or ten thoufand Horle , and more Foot than any other of the 
 Beys , by reafon his Country is i'o populous. 
 
 From Amadii to Gioufmarl^, days 4 
 From Gioufmark^to Alback^, days 3 
 From AlbacJ^ to Salmafire , days 3 
 Salmafire is a pleafant City upon the Frontiers of the Affyrtans and Medes, and 
 the firft on that fide in the Territories of the Perfian King. The Caravan never 
 lyes there , becaufe it would be above a League out of the way : but when the 
 Caravan is lodg'd , two or three of the principal Merchants with the Cayavan-Baffi 
 according to cuftom go to wait upon the Kan. The Kan is fo glad that the Caravan 
 takes that Road, that he prefents the Caravan- Btflri and thole that go with him, with 
 the Garment of Honour, ortheCalaat, the Bonnet, and Girdle*, which is the 
 greateft Honour that the King or his Governour can do to Strangers. 
 
 From Salamaflre to Tauris, days 4. 
 In all thirty-two days journey this way from Aleppo to T amis. But though this 
 be the fhorteft cut, and where they pay leaft Cuftoms , yet the Merchants dare hardly 
 venture for fear of being ill us'd by the Beys. 
 
 Teren , whole Capital City the Verfians call Cherijar , is a Province between Ma- 
 zandran and the ancient Region of the Verfians known at this day by the name of 
 Hierac , to the South-Eaft of Jjfahan. 'Tis one of the moft temperate Countries, 
 that has nothing in it of the contagious Air of Guilan , where the King goes for the 
 purity of the Air, and for his fport of Hunting - 7 befides , that it produceth ex- 
 cellent Fruits in many places. The Capital City whereof, which ibme call by the 
 name of the Trovince, is of a moderate compafs, but there is nothing worthy obfer- 
 vation in it : only a League from it are to be feen the Ruines of a great City, which 
 
 had 
 
Chap.V. c/Monfieur Taverniek. 109 
 
 had been two Leagues in Circuit. There were abundance of Towers all of burnt 
 Brick, and Pieces of the Wall (landing. There were alio feveral Letters in the 
 Stones which were cemented into the Walls ; but neither Turkl , Per fans , nor Ara- 
 bians could underftand them. The City is round feated upon a high Hill , at the top 
 whereof ftood the Ruines of a Caftle > which the Natives lay was the Refidence of the 
 Kings of Petfia. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 The tffyad from Aleppo to Ifpahan through the fmall Vefert , and 
 through Kengavar. 
 
 I Will defcribe this Road as if I were to return from Ifpahan to Aleppo. This 
 Road lies through Kengavar, Hagd.it , ai\d Anna , where you enter into the 
 Defert, which I call The little Defert, becaufe you get over it in far lels time 
 than the great Deiert that extends Southwards to Arabia the Happy, and where 
 you may often find Water , all the whole Journey being not far diftant from the River 
 Euphrates. A man that is well mounted may ride this way from Ifpahan to Aleppo in 
 three and thirty days, as I have done, and perhaps in lets , if the Arabian, whom 
 you take for your guide at 'Bagdat , knows the fhorteft cut through the Wilder- 
 nefs. 
 
 The Horfe Caravans travelling from Ifpahan to Kengavar are fourteen or fifteen 
 days upon the Road - , but being well mounted ten or twelve in a Company , you may 
 Ride^it in five or fix days. The Country through which you travel , is very- 
 fertile in Corn and Rice, it produces alio excellent Fruits and good Wine, efpeci- 
 ally about Kengavar, which is a large Town and well peopl'd. 
 
 From Kengavar to Bagdat I was ten days upon the Road. The Country is not fo 
 fertile but very ftony in lome parts. And it confifts in Plains and fiuall Hills , there 
 being not a Mountain in all the Road. 
 
 Now for a man that travels quick , the Road lies thus : 
 
 From Ifpahan to Confar. 
 
 From Confar to Comba. 
 . From Comba to Oranguie. N ■ 
 
 From Oranguie to JSFahoiiand. 
 
 From Naho'aand to Kengavar. 
 
 Fron Kengavar to Sahana. 
 
 From Sahana to Polifha , or the Bridge-Royal , being a great Stone Bridge, 
 From Polifia to Maidacht. , | 
 
 From Maidacht to Erounabad. fj 
 
 From Erounabad to Conaguy. ■ , 
 
 From Conaguy to Cafifciren. 
 
 From Cafifciren to Iengui-Conaguy. , < 
 
 From Iengui-Conaguy to Cafered. 
 
 From Cafered to Char ab an. 
 • From Char ab an to Bouroas. 
 
 From Bonrous to Bagdat. 3 
 
 There are fome , who inftead -of pafling through Kengavar , take Amadan , 
 one of the mod confiderable Cities of lerfia in their way , and fo from thence to 
 Toucher J; but the way is longer •, and according to the Road which I have let down , 
 you ate to leave Amadan to the North upon the right hand. . ^ 
 
 Between Sahana and Palijha you leave the only high Mountain in all the Road 
 to the North. It is as fteep and as ftraight as a Wall , and as high asyou can fee-, 
 you may obferve the Figures of men clad like Priefts, with Surplices and Cenfors m 
 their hands , and yet neither can the Natives tell you , nor any perfon imagin the 
 meaning of thofc Sculptures. At the foot of the Rock runs a River, over which 
 there is a Bridge of Stone. 
 
 About 
 
no 
 
 The Persian Travels Bbok 1IL 
 
 About a days journey beyond the Mountain you meet with a little City, whofe 
 fituation, the Streams that water it, the good Fruits that grow there, and parti- 
 cularly the excellent Wine which it affords * render a moft pleafant Manfion. The 
 Berjians believe that Alexander when he returned from Babylon dy'd in this place, 
 what-ever others have writt'n that he dy'd at Babylon. All the reft of the Country 
 from this City to Bagdat is a Country of Dates, where the people live in little Hurts, 
 made of the Branches of Palm-trees. 
 
 From Bagdat to Anna you ride in four days , through a defert Country, though 
 it lye between two Rivers. 
 
 Anna is a City of an indifferent bignefs , that belongs to an Arabian Emir. For 
 about half a League round about the Town, the Lands are very well manur'd, being 
 full of Gardens and Country-houfes. The City for its fituation refembles Boris ; 
 for it is built upon both fides of the River Euphrates ; and in the midft of the River 
 is an Ifland, where (lands a fair Mofyuee. 
 
 From Anna to Mached-raba is five days riding , and from Mached-raba to Taibo, 
 five days more. 
 
 Mached-raba is a kind of a Fortrefs upon the point of a Hill , at the Foot whereof 
 springs a Fountain like a large Vafe , which is very rare in the Defcrts. The place 
 is encompals'd with high Walls, defended by certain Towers, and in which are 
 little Hutts where the Inhabitants keep their Cattel , of which there is great ftore, 
 but more Mares and Horfes than Cows. 
 
 Taiba is alfo a fortifi'd place in a level Country , or a high Bank of Earth and 
 Brick bak'd in the Sun. Near to the Gate a Fountain fprings out of the Earth, and 
 makes a kind of a Pond. This Road is moft frequented by thofe that travel through 
 the Defert from Aleppo or Dam a* to Babylon , or from Damas to Diarbtquir, by 
 rcafon of this Fountain. 
 
 From Taiba to Aleppo is but three days journey \ but thefe three days are the 
 moft dangerous of all the Road for Robbers , in regard that all the Country is inha* 
 bited only by the Bedouins, or Arabian Shepherds, who make it their bufineE only 
 to plunder and fteal. 
 
 Now to take the fame Road from Aleppo to Ifpahartf it lyes thus : 
 
 From Aleppo to Taiba , days 3 
 
 From Taiba to Mached-raba , days 5 
 
 From Mocked raba to Anna , days 5 
 
 From Anna to Bagdat, days 4 
 
 From Bagdat to Bourout, days 1 
 
 From Bomrous to Charaban , days I 
 
 From Charaban to Capered, days 1 
 
 From Cafered to Conaguy , days , 1 
 
 From Conaguy to Cajjifcerin , days I 
 
 From Caflifccrin to another Conaguy , days 1 
 
 From Conaguy to Erounabad, days 1 
 
 From Erounabad to Maidacht , days 1 
 
 From Maidacht to Sahana , days 1 
 
 From Sahana to Kengavar, days 1 
 
 From Kengavar to Nahouand, days r 
 
 From Nahoiiand to Oranguie , days 1 
 
 From Oranguie to Comba , days 1 
 
 From Comba to Confar , days 1 
 
 From Confar to Iftahan , days 1 
 
 So that whether you travel from Alepp 0 to IJpahan , or from IJpahan to Aleppo, 
 you may eafily ride it in thirty days. 
 
 From whence I make this Obfervation , That a man making it but two days 
 more from Alexandretta , and finding a Ship ready there to fet Sail for MarfeiHes, 
 with a fair Wind he may travel from IJpahan to Paris in two months. 
 
 Another time , having an occafion to go from Aleppo to Kengavar , and fo to 
 Bagdat ; and from thence, fo thrdugh the Defert *, at Bagdat I met with a Spaniard 
 that was travelling the fame way , with whom I luckily met to bear half the Charges 
 of the Guide} which as foon as we had hir'd for fixty Crowns, we fet forward from 
 
 Bagdat 
 
Chap. V. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 ni 
 
 Bagdat ; the Spaniard, and I , and our Arabian , who was afoot, walk'd about Piftol 
 Shot before our Horfes. From thence to Anna we met with nothing remarkable , 
 but only that wefaw a Lyon and aLyonefs in the Aft of Generation : Whereupon 
 our Guide believing we had been afraid , told us , that he had met them oft'n , 
 but that he never found them do any harm. 
 
 The Spaniard according to the humour of his Nation , wis Very rcferv'd , 
 and contenting himlelf with an Onion , or 1'ome fuch fmall matter at meals , never 
 made much of his guide} whereas I Was mightily in his favour, in regard there was 
 never a day pafs'd wherein he did not receive of me fome good bufinefs or other. 
 We were not above a Mufquet Shot from Anna when we met with a comely old 
 man , who came up to me, and taking my Horle by the Bridle ; Friend , laid he , 
 come and wafh thy feet and eat Bread at my Houfe. Thou art a Stranger , and fince 
 I have met thee upon the Road , never refui'e mc the favour which I defire of thee. 
 The Invitation of the old man was fo like the cuftom of the people in ancient times,of 
 which we read fo many Examples in Scripture , that we could not choofe but go 
 along with him to his Houfe , where he Feafled us in the beft manner he could , 
 giving us over and above Barly fdr our Horfes ; and for us he kilPd a Lamb and fome 
 Hens. He was an Inhabitant of Anna , and liv'd by the River , which we were 
 oblig'd to crofs to wait upon the Governour for our Pafiports , for which we paid two 
 Piafters apiece. We ftaid at a Houienear the Gate of the City to buy Provifions 
 for our felves and our Horfes ; where the woman of the Houfe having a lovely 
 fpri^htly Child of nine years of age, I was fo taken with her humour, that I gave 
 her two Handkerchiefs of Painted Calicut, which the Child fhewing her Mother, 
 all we could do could not make her take any Money for the Provifions we had agreed 
 for. 
 
 Five hundred paces from the Gate of the City , we met a young man of a good 
 Family, for he was attended by two Servants, and rode upon an Afs, the hinder- 
 part c/ which Was Painted red. He accofted me in particular , and after fome 
 Compliments that pafs'd , Is it pojfible , faid he , that I fiould meet a Stranger , and 
 have nothing to prefent him withall ? He would fain have carry'd us to a Houfe in the 
 Country whether he was going •, but feeing we were refolv'd to keep our way , he 
 would needs give me his Pipe, notwithftanding all the excufes I could make , 
 and though I told him that I never took any Tobacco ; io that I was conftrain'd 
 to accept of it. 
 
 About three Leagues from Anna , we were going to eat among the Ruines of 
 certain Houfes , and had thought to havd lain there 'till midnight, when we perciv'd 
 two Arabians fent by the Emir , to tell us that he had fome Letters which he would 
 put into our own hands to the Bafha of Aleppo, to which purpofe he had order to 
 bring us back. There was no refufing , fo that at our coming into the City the next 
 day we faw the Emir going to the Mofquie , mounted upon a ftately Horfe , and 
 attended by a great number of people afoot , with every one a great Poniard ftuck 
 in their Girdles. As foon as we faw him we alighted, and Handing up by the 
 Houfes, we filuted him as he pafs'd by. Seeing our Guide , and threatning to rip 
 up his Belly Te Dog, faid he, / will give ye your reward, and teach ye to carry 
 Strangers away before I fee them. Carry them , faid he , to the Governours Houfe 
 'till I return from the Mofquie. Returning from the Mofquie , and being feated 
 in a fpacious Hall , he lent for us and our Guide , whom he threatn'd again for 
 carrying us out of the Town without giving him notice. But the Governour 
 pleaded his excule , and appeas'd the Emir. After that he fent for Coffee for us , 
 and then caus'd us to open the Budget that We carry'd behind our Horfes , to fee 
 whether there were anv thing that pleas'd him or no. In my Budget were two 
 pieces of Calicut exquifitely painted , for two Coverlets of a Bed two pieces of 
 Handkerchief of Calicut, two Perfian Standiflies beautify 'd with Japan VarnmV, 
 two Damafcene Blades , one inlaid with Gold , the other with Silver. All which 
 he lik'd , and made me give him. In the Spaniards Budget he found nothing but 
 a few old Clothes : But afterwards being known to have had fome Diamonds about 
 him, the French Corful at Aleppo fentene'd him to pay me half the charges of what 
 I gave the Emir. 
 
 The Prince fatisfi'd with what he had tak'n , gave order that we fhould be fur- 
 nifh'd with all neceffary Provifions for our felves and our Horfes: but being provided 
 
 before , 
 
112 
 
 The Persian Travels Book III. 
 
 before, we only took three or four handfuls of excellent Dates , to {hew that we 
 did not flight his kindnefs. 
 
 Between Anna, and Mached-raba is the Guide to take fpecial care fo to order his 
 Stages , as to come every morning to the Wells by break of day , for fear of meeting 
 the Arabs , that come to fetch Water there by that time the Sun is up , who are 
 apt enough to be injurious to Travellers. 
 
 At Mached-raba I faw one of the moft beautiful Virgins that ever I beheld in my 
 life. For I had given a Piafler to an Arab to get me ibme Bread , and going to fee 
 whether it were bak'd , I found the Virgin putting it into the Oven , who being 
 alone, made me a fign to retire. There I alio faw a Colt of that wonderful fhape, that 
 the Bafha of Damas had offer'd three thoufand Crowns for it. 
 
 Coming to Ta'iba , we did not go into the Town, but lay without under the Walls. 
 Only our Arab went in and brought us chopt Straw for our Camels. The Governour 
 of the Town came along with him , and dewnauded twenty Piafters of every one, for 
 certain Duties which he pretended payable to him. We knew there were but four 
 due , and refus'd to pay any more :, but the Arab having a mind to put a trick upon 
 the Spaniard, gave me a wink , intimating to me that I fhould not trouble my (elf : 
 Thereupon the Governour incens'd goes back to the Town , and by and by returns 
 with an Iron Chain and had certainly carry'd the Spaniard fetter'd to the Fort , had 
 he not laid down the twenty Piafters. For my part , I was diicharg'd for my four 
 Piafters , according to cuftom. 
 
 Drawing near to Aleppo , the firft Houfes that we came at bordering upon the 
 Defert , were the Houfes of the Arabs and Bedouins ; the fecond of which being the 
 Habitation of a Friend of our Guide's, I deliver'd my Horfe to the Guide, to whom I 
 had fold it before at his own earneft requeft \ for I was refolv'd to go a-foot to Alepp o : 
 and therefore that I might fave the Cuftom of a parcel of Turquoifes that I had 
 about me , I put them in the Pouches which I carry'd behind my Horfe, and threw 
 the Pouches into a little Cheft , as if they had been things of no confequence •, and 
 defir'd the Man of the Houfe to keep them a day or two. The Arab told me , that 
 were it all Gold it fhould be fafe \ and indeed when I fent for them within a day or 
 two after , I found nothing miffing. 
 
 When I came to Aleppo , the jEnglijh Conful ask'd me what news from Jjpahan : 
 I made anfwer, that he muft of neceflity know better than I, in regard the Bngliftt 
 Prefident there had fent away an Exprefs to him while I was there :, and that he went 
 away with two Capuchins and an Arabian Guide. Thereupon the Conful mif- 
 trufting fome mifchief was befal'n them, requefted the Bajha to lend him fome of his 
 Soldiers who readily granted him eight Men , part Arabians, part Bedouins. Thefe 
 the Conful order'd to difperfe themfelves upon feveral Roads in the Wildernefs, to 
 fee if they could meet with any tidings upon the Way. In a (hort time two 
 of them return'd with two little Pouches , in one of which was the Packet of Letters. 
 They reported alfo , that in a by-place between Ta'iba and Mached-raba they faw 
 the Bodies of four dead Men lying upon the Sand. One of them which was in black 
 Clothes, being hack'd and mangled in a moft miferable manner-, but the Bodies of the 
 other three were entire , though run through in feveral places. Some time after the 
 perfons themfelves that did the faft told both at Diarbecfnir and Damai , how it came 
 to pafs. For certain Merchants of Dantas going to Diarbeqmr , perceiv'd four Men 
 early in the morning at certain Wells where they were to ftop :, whereupon they 
 fent two of their Company before to know who they were. But the Anftin-Yntt 
 having a little parcel of Diamonds about him , and believing them to be Thieves* 
 inconfiderately let fly his Gun and kill'd one of them immediately upon the place : 
 the Merchants feeing one of their companions dead , fell all at once upon the other 
 three, cut the Auftin-Friet to pieces, and flew the reft j and fo without rifling them 
 purfu'd their Journey. 
 
 From Aleppo I went to Alexandretta , and there embarqu'd in a Veflel of Mar- 
 feilles , with a favourable Wind, 'till we came to make the Coaft of Candy , where 
 we were becalm'd for two days. One morning by break of day we difcover'd a 
 Pickaroon, whereupon feeing we could not avoid being fetch'd up by him, we 
 made ready. He made two or three (hot at us , which did us no other harm but 
 only touch'd the Beak-head of the Ship. Our Gunner made a fhot at him , which 
 brought down his Top gallant*, a fecond went through and through the great Cabin, 
 
Chap. VI. of Monfieur Tavernier 
 
 and caus'd a great diforder in his Ship, as far as We could difcern with ©ur Profpeftive- 
 GlafTes. But when the Wind began to blow frefh, the Pirate, who had enough 
 of us , and bad difcover'd another VelTel which perhaps he thought better prize 
 made all the Sail he could from us toward the other VelTel. Thereupon we purfu'd 
 our Voyage with a fair Gale, and came to Malta. 
 
 From Malta we departed {'even or eight in company, in two of the Pope's Gallies, 
 (laying three days at Syracuse, and one at Medina; where our Company increafing, 
 we hir'd a Feluck for Naples. But as we were coafting by the Shoar to the Port 
 of Naples, fo terrible a Tempeft l'urpriz'd us near to Paolo, that we were forc'd to 
 put in there upon V aim-Sunday. The next day we went to fee the Covent of 
 St. Francis of Paolo ; the way to it lying between a high Mountain on the right, and 
 a Precipice on the left hand. This Mountain leans fo, that it feems to be tumbling 
 down-, and there is a good height upon the Rock the feeming print of a Hand , which 
 as the report goes , was the print of St. Francis's Hand , who fuftain'd it a whole 
 day, and kept it from falling. From Paolo we went to Naples , were we arriv'd 
 upon Eafter-eve ; and as we entered into the City, the great Guns went off round 
 the City, in honour of the Refurreclion. At Rome we all feparated , according as 
 ©ur Bufinefs led us. 
 
 CHAP. Vf. 
 
 Another tf{oad from Conftantinople to Ifpahan , by the Euxin 
 or Black Sea - y lt>ith feme Remarks upon the principal Cities 
 thereabouts. 
 
 THere are three Roads yet remaining , leading out of Europe into Perfia 
 or the Indies. That of Conftantinople , all along the Coafts of the Black 
 Sea ; that of Warfovia , eroding the fame Sea at Trebifond ■ and that 
 of Mofco, down thefolga, which has been amply defcrib'd by Olearias, 
 Secretary to the Embafly of the Duke of Holflein. In this and the next Chapter 
 I (hall defcribe the Way from Conftantinople, all along the Black Sea , and that from 
 Warfovia ; not knowing any perfon that has hitherto mention'd any thing upon this 
 fubjeft. And firft of all I will give a fhort Defcription of the principal Peaces that 
 lye upon that Sea , as weU upon the fide of Europe as of Afia , with the juft diftances 
 of one Place from another. 
 
 The principal Cities upon the Black Sea , on the Coafi of Europe. 
 
 From Conftantinople to Varna they count it two hundred Miles , four of which 
 
 make an Alman League •, miles 200 
 From Varna to Balftnke , miles 3 6 
 
 From Beljhike to Bengali , miles ■ 7° 
 
 From Bengali to Conftance , miles 66 
 From Co-n fiance to Queli , miles 2 5 
 
 Near to this City of Queli the great Arm of Danovo throws if felf into the Black 
 
 Sea. Here is the grand Fiftiery for Sturgeon. 
 
 From Queli to Aquerman , miles 5° 
 The City of Jquerman belongs to a Kan of the lefTer Tartary ; but it is not the 
 
 place of his refidence , for he keeps his Court at Bafra-Serrail , twenty-five miles up 
 
 in the Land. 
 
 From Aqtterman to Kefet or Kaffa , miles 3 5^ 
 
 This is a great City, and a place of great Trade , wherein there are above a 
 thoufand Families of the Armenians , and about five hundred Greeks. They have 
 every one their Bifhop , and feveral Churches. St. Peter's is the biggeft, very large 
 and verv beautiful-, but it falls to decay, becaufe the Chriftians have not Wealth 
 
 P enough 
 
ii4 
 
 The Persian Travels Book III. 
 
 enough to repair it. Every Chriftian aboue fifteen years of age , pays a Piafier and 
 a half tribute to the Grand Signor , who is Lord of the City *, and he lends a Bafaa 
 that lives in the ancient City call'd Frinl^HeJfar. However the Kan of the LefTer 
 T artary extends his Jurifdi&ion as far as the Gates of Kajfa. 
 From Kaffa to Ajfaque , miles 70 
 ^Affaque is the laft City in Europe , belonging alfo to the Grand Signor. By 
 it runs a great River of the fame name , the other fide being in the Territories of 
 the Duke of Mufoovy. Down this River come the Coffacks that do fo much mif- 
 chicf to the Turks. For iometimes they come with threefcore or fourfcore Gelia's 
 which are a kind of Brigantines , the bigger fort of which carry a hundred and 
 fifty men , the lei's a hundred. Sometimes they divide themfelves into two parts , 
 one of which makes Havock toward Confiantinople , the other Ravages the Coall of 
 zAfia, as far as Trebifond. 
 The Coaft of Europe bord'ring upon the Black Sea is 861 miles in length. 
 
 The chief Cities upon the Black Sea on the Coaft of Afia , which is 
 
 1 1 70 miles in length. 
 
 From Confiantinople to Neapoli , miles 250 
 In this City are made the greateft part of the Galleys andVeflels that belong to 
 the Grand Signor. 
 
 From Neapoli to Sinabe, miles 250 
 
 From Sinabe to Ouma , miles 240 
 
 From Ouma to Kerafon, miles 150 
 
 From Kerafon to Trebifond, miles . 80 
 
 From Trebifond to Rife , miles 1 00 
 
 From Rife to Gum , miles 1 00 
 
 The City of Guni belongs half to the Grand %>w,and half to the King of Mengrelia, 
 with whom he keeps a good Correfpondence , becaufe the greateft part of the 
 Steel and Iron that is Ipent in Turkic comes out of Mengrelia through the Black 
 Sea. 
 
 The only good Ports upon the Black Sea from Confiantinople to Mengrelia , 
 are, 
 
 Quitros^ Sinabe, or Sinope , Onnye , Samfom , Trebifond, GomrnL 
 
 The Haven of Quitros is very deep, and the Veflels lie fhelter'd from the winds, 
 but the entrance into it is very bad , which only the Pilots of the place , or they 
 who have often accuftom'd themfelves to that Trade can only find out. It feems that 
 anciently there had been moil (lately Buildings round about the Port ; and fevera! 
 noble Pillars are to be feen all along the (hore , not to fpeak of thofe which have 
 been Tranfported to Confiantinople. Near the City toward the South Hands a high 
 Mountain , whence there flows good {lore of excellent Water , which at the 
 bottom gathers into one Fountain. 
 
 To go from Confiantinople for Perfia by Sea , you muft embark at Confiantinople 
 for Trebifond, and many times for Rife or Guni , which are more to the North. 
 They that Land at Trebifond go dire&Iy to Erz.erom , which is not above five 
 days Journey off, and from Erzerom to Erivan er Tunis. But there are few that 
 will venture upon this Sea where there is no good Anchorage befides that it is 
 fubje& to prodigious Tempefts , from which there are very few good Ports to defend 
 them which is the reafon it is call'd Cara-denguis , or the Black Sea : The Eaftern 
 people giving to all things , mifchievous and dangerous , the Epithet of Black. 
 
 They that are Bound for Rife or Guni , go to Tefiis the Capital City of Giorgia, 
 and thence to Erivan , for though the way be bad , yet it is far better and fmoother 
 than the Road to Tauris. 
 
 The principal places from Tefiis to Erivan are thefe , together with their re- 
 fpeftive diftances. 
 
 From Tefiis to Soganlouk^, leagues 3 
 From Soganlouk^ to Senoukjuupri , leagues 7 
 From SenoukJ^upri to Guilkac, leagues 7 
 From Guilkac to Daksou , leagues 6 
 
 From 
 
Chap. VII. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 From Daksen to Achikent, leagues 6 
 
 From Achikgnt to 'Dillon , leagues 6 
 
 From 'Dillon to Taz.egi , leagues <j 
 
 From Taz.egi to Bicheni , leagues 4 
 
 From Bicheni to . Srivan , leagues , 2 
 
 From Srivan you keep the ordinary Road to Tauris. 
 
 CHAP. VIL 
 
 The ^oad from Warfow to Ifpahan, over the Black Sea , and from 
 Ifpahan to Mofco • "toith the Names of the principal Cities and 
 Jflands of Turky according to the Vulgar pronunciation \ and as 
 they are call'd in the Language of the Turks. 
 
 FRom Warfow upon the left hand of the Viflnla , the ordinary refidence of 
 the Kings of Poland, to Lublin, days 6 
 From Lublin to Iluove, days . 5 
 
 There all the Bales are open'd , and the Cuftomers take Five in the Hun- 
 dred for their Merchandize. 
 
 From Iluove to Jaflovieer, days . . .. 12 
 
 This is the laft City of Poland toward Moldavia , where if you fell any quantity 
 of Goods , you muft pay Five per Cent. 
 
 From Jajlovieer to Tape , days . .8 
 
 This is the Capital City of Moldavia , and is the Refidence of the Vaywood which 
 jhe Grand Signor fends to govern in the Country. There they open all the Bales, 
 and there is a Roll of what every Merchant ought to pay, which may amounts to 
 Five per Cent. 
 
 From Tape to Ourpaye , days 3 
 This is the laft City of Moldavia , where there is no Cuftom to be paid. 
 From Our pay e to Akerman , days 4 
 Here they never open the Bales , but they take Four in the Hundred. 
 From Akerman to Oz.ou , days .... - 3 
 Here they never open the Bales , but the Cuftom amounts to Two pe r Cent. 
 From Ozou to Free op , days 5 
 Neither do they here open the Bales , but truft to the Merchant's word , and 
 the Cuftoms amount to Two and a half per Cent. 
 
 From Precop to Kaffa, days ... 5 
 
 Nor are the Bales open'd here , but the Cuftom comes to Three per Cent. 
 ^ Thus from Warfow to Kajfa the Journey takes up one and fifty days, in the Wagon, 
 which is the manner of Carriage in thofe Countries. All the Cuftoms amount to 
 Eighteen and a half per Cent, to which you muft add the Carriage , and Paflage by 
 Sea to T rebiz.ond; where you pay three Piafiers for every Mules-Toad , and four for 
 every Camels-load. 
 
 Obferve by the way, that the Armenians do not ufually take fhipping at Trebiz.ond, 
 but go to another Port more to the Weft , upon the lame Coaft , where they never 
 pay above a Piafter and a half for a Camels-load. This Port, call'd Onnie-, is a very 
 good Haven and there is another a little farther off, call'd Samfon , which is no bad 
 one , but the Air is unwholfom and dang'rous. 
 
 There is alfo another Road from Warfow to Trebiz.ond, fhorter by three days 
 journey. 
 
 From Warfow to Tape, according to the Road already fet down , days 3 r 
 
 From Tape' to C-alaf, days 8 
 All Merchandize is Tax'd at this place , and the Duties are tak'n at galas , . ac- 
 cording to the Note which the Merchant brings from Galai. Gala is a City of 
 Moldavia. 
 
 P 2 From 
 
1 1 6 The Persian Travels Book III. 
 
 From Galas to Mcgin, days i 
 The bales are not open'd here, but the Merchant pays three and a half , or four 
 per Cent. 
 
 From Megin to Mmgalia , days S 
 This is one of the four Ports to the Weft upon the Black Sea , and thebeft of 
 all. 
 
 The three others toward the South upon the Coaft are Kavarna, Balgikj, and 
 Varna. At Mangalia they demand but half a Piafier for every Bale. Crofting 
 from thence to Trebifond you have five days Journey to Erzerom. 
 
 Now to the Road of Afufcovy • which having been exactly defcrib'd by Olea- 
 rim , going into Per fa , I will defcribe it returning out of Per fa. 
 
 Having led the Reader to Shamaqui , I will return home from thence. 
 
 From Shamaqui to Derbent , days 7 
 
 Derbent y which the Turks call Demir-Capi , is the laft City within the Juris- 
 diction of the Per fans 7 by which there runs a River which is call'd Shamourha. 
 
 From Derbent to Tetarck^, days 8 
 
 By this Town runs a River which is call'd Bocan. 
 
 From Tetark^ to Afracan they hire fmall Barks with a dozen Oars. All along 
 the (hoar the Ofiers grow fo very thick , that they afford {heltcr for the 
 Barks in fowl weather. If the Wind ferve they will put up a little Sail and be at 
 Afracan in four or five hours*, but if they only Row, they cannot be there in 
 nine. 
 
 When you Embark upon the Ca/pian Sea, where you only creep along by the 
 fhore , you muft provide your felf with Water for the three firft days , in regard 
 the Water is bitter and ill tafted all along the Coafl all that while , but for the 
 reft of the Voyage it is very good. If you carry heavy Goods , you may hire 
 large Boats to lave charges. 
 
 When you come to Afracan you unlade your Goods •, at what time the Officer 
 comes , and fealing up every Bale , caufes them to be fent to the Merchants lodg- 
 ing. Three days after the Cuftomer comes to op'n the Bales , and takes five per 
 Cent. If the Merchant hap'n to want money, and takes it up at Afracan to 
 pay again at Mo/cow , he pays fometimes thirty per Cent , according to the rate of 
 Gold Ducats. 
 
 If a Merchant have any Diamonds or any other Jewels , and let it be known , 
 he pays five per Cent. But if a Merchant have any Jewels or any other rarities , 
 and tells the Governour that he intends to carry them to the Grand Duke •, the 
 Governour fends a Convoy with him either by Land or Water , that cofts him no- 
 thing ; and moreover fends a Courrier before to the Court to give notice of his 
 coming. There is very good Wine at Afracan , but better at Shamaqui , where 
 I advife the Traveller to provide himfclf. 
 
 From Afracan to Mofcow you take Shipping in great Barques that make ufe 
 both of Oars and Sails rowing againft the Tide , and weigh what ever you put 
 aboard , to a very Coverlet. Generally you pay for every pound fourteen. Cay a , 
 or three Abafffs and a half, and an Abajf makes eighteen Sous and three De- 
 niers. 
 
 In Mufcovy they reck'n the way neither by leagues nor miles , but by Shage- 
 rons , five of which make an Italian mile. 
 
 From Afracan to Courmija , Shagerons 3 00 
 
 From Courmija to Sariz.a, Jha. 200 
 From Sariz.a to Sarataf , jha. 350 
 From Sarataf to Samarat , Jha. 200 
 From Samarat to Semiriskat , fa. 3 00 
 
 From Semirishat to Coulomb e , $ha. 150 
 From Coulombe to Cafan , Jha. 200 
 This is a great City with a ftout Fortrefs. 
 
 From Cafan to Saboukcjha , fia. 200 
 From Saboukcfha to Godamijan, fa. 120 
 From Godamijan to N'tou'ina, Jha. 280 
 Niguina is a large and well Fortifi'd Caftle. 
 
 From Niguina to Mourony fa. 300 
 
 From 
 
Chap. VII. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 From Mouron to Cafin, flia. IOO 
 From Cafin to Mofcow, fia. 250 
 So that from Aftracan to Mofcow they count it fha. 2.950 
 which makes 590 Italian miles. 
 
 At Sarataf 'you may go afhore , and fo by Land to Mofcow. When the Snow is 
 gone you travel, in Wagons , but when the Snow lies , in Sledges. If a man be alone, 
 and that his Goods weigh not above two hundred pounds Taxis weight, they put 
 them into two Bales •, and laying them upon the Horfes back fet the man in the 
 middle , paying for Carriage as much as from Afiracan to Mofcow. 
 From Sarataf by Land to Infer at , days 10 
 From Jnferat to Tynmekj, days 6 
 From Tymnet^ to Cancjuerma , days 8 
 From Canquerma to Volodimer , days 6 
 Volodimer is a City bigger than Conflantinople , where (lands a fair Church upon a 
 Mountain in the City , having been formerly the refidence of the Emperours them- 
 felves. 
 
 From Volodimer to Mofcow , days 5 
 In all , days 35 
 Obferve by the way that they never go afhore at Scrataf but in cafe of neceffity, 
 when the River begins to be Frozen. For from Scrataf to Infer at is a Journey of ten 
 days, in all which time there is nothing to be had , either for Horfe or Man. The 
 Cuftom is the fame at Mofcow as at Afiracan , that is Five per Cent. All the Afia~ 
 ticks, Turks, Perfians, Armenians, and others, lodge in a fort of Inns : but the 
 Europeans lie in a place by themfelves altogether. 
 
 The Names of Jome Cities and flues belonging to the Empire of the Grand 
 Signor , as they are vulgarly call'd , and in Turkifli. 
 
 COnflantinople after it was taken by Mahomet the fecond , the twenty-feventh of 
 May , 145 3. was call'd by the Turks Iflam-Bol; Iftam fignifying Security, and 
 Boly Spacious , large , or great , as much as to fay, Great Security. 
 
 Vulgar. Turkifli. 
 
 Adrianople, Edrene. 
 
 Burfe , Broufa. 
 
 Belgrade , Beligrade. 
 
 Buda , Boudira. 
 
 Grand Caire , Mefr. 
 
 Alexandretta in Egypt , Iskendrie. 
 
 Mecca, Meqquie. 
 
 'Balfara , Bafra. 
 
 Babylon , Bagdat. 
 
 Nineveh, MoufToul. 
 
 Nifibis , Nisbin. 
 
 Edeffa, Ourfa. 
 
 Tiqueranger , Diarbequir. 
 
 Eva-togea , Tokat. 
 
 T eve T oHpolif , Erzerom. 
 
 Shamiramager , Van. 
 
 Jerufalem , KoutfherifF. 
 
 Tfamas , Cam. 
 
 Tripoli in Syria , Cam Taraboulous. 
 
 Aleppo , Haleb. 
 
 Tripoli in Barbary , Taraboulous. 
 
 Tunis, Tunis. 
 
 Algier , Gezaiir. 
 
 Candy , Guirir. 
 
 Rhodes, Rodes. 
 
 Cyprus 
 
 Kebrcs. 
 
 Chio 
 
The Persian Travels Book III 
 
 Chio, 
 JWethelin , 
 Smyrna , 
 Trey , 
 Letnnos , 
 Tenedos , 
 Negrofont , 
 The JDardanels . 
 Athens , 
 JW#f , 
 
 St. John of Dacres, 
 Antioch , 
 T'rebiz.ondj 
 Sinopus , 
 
 Sakes. 
 
 Medilli. 
 
 Izmir. 
 
 Eski Iftamboul. 
 
 Limio. 
 
 Bogge-adafi. 
 
 Eghirbos. 
 
 Bogaz-ki. 
 
 Atina. 
 
 Biroult. 
 
 Saida. 
 
 Sour. 
 
 Acra. 
 
 Antexia. 
 
 Tarabozan. 
 
 Sinap. 
 
 In the Fortrefs of Sinoptts , at the lower part of the Wall there is a 'Stone to be 
 feen , where there is an Infcription in Latin abbreviated , with the word Rome in it } 
 whence fome conjecture may be made that the Romans built it. 
 
 The Mediterranean Sea , 
 The Ocean , 
 The Blacky Sea, 
 
 Akdeniis. 
 Derijay Mouhiit. 
 Kara-Deniis. 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 Remarks upon the Trade of the Ifland of Candy and the principal 
 Ijles of the Archipelago , as alfo upon fome of the Cities of 
 Greece adjoyning • "frith a particular tf^elation of the prefent Con- 
 dition of the Grand Signor'f Galleys i belonging as Tbell to the 
 Ijles as to the Continent, 
 
 Of the ISLAND 0/CANDY. 
 
 OU T of the Ifland of Candy Strangers export great fto re of Wheat and 
 Sallet-Oyl , all forts of Pulfe , Cheeie , yellow Wax, Cottons , Silks, 
 but more efpecially Malmfey, wherein confifts its chiefeft Trade. When 
 Vintage draws near, the Country-people that are to gather the Grapes 
 wrap their Feet in a piece of a Boar's Skin , which they tye together upon the 
 upper part of the Foot with a piece of Pack-thred, to preferve their Feet from the 
 violent heat of the Rocks upon which they are to tread. Thofe Skins are brought 
 out of Rnjfia by the Ruffes , that bring Botargo and Caviare to Conflantinople , where 
 they have a vaft vent for it all over Turkie , Perfia , and Ethiopia ; where they that 
 follow the C/VffJ^and Armenian Church , eat little or nothing elfe all the Lent. By 
 the way take notice, that the Turks make a certain Glew out of Sturgeon, which is the 
 beft in the World,fo that whatever is faften'd with it, will rather break in another place 
 than where it is glew'd. They make it thus : When they have caught a Sturgeon, they 
 pull out his Guts , and then there remains a Skin that covers the Flefh ^ this Skin 
 they take off from the head to the belly. It is very clammy, and about the thick- 
 i nefs of two Sheets of Paper, which they roll as thick as a Man's Arm, and let it 
 dry in the Sun. When they ufe it , they beat it with a Mallet , and when it is 
 well beat'n they break it into pieces , and fteep it in Water for half an hour in a 
 little Pot. 
 
 When the Venetians were Matters of Candy , they that had committed any Crime 
 which deferv'd Death , if they could get out of the Ifland before they were appre- 
 hended, 
 
Chap. VI. of Monfieur Tavernier 
 
 i 
 
 hended , went dire&Iy to Conflantinopole , to beg their pardon^ For you muft know, 
 that no perfon but the Ambaffador of the Commonwealth of Venice had the Pri- 
 viledge to pardon Crimes committed in Candy. For example , when Signor T)er- 
 vifano was Ambaffador for the Commonwealth of Venice at Cenfiantinople , a Candiot 
 having a defire to lye with a Woman by force , fhe told him fhe would fooner eat her 
 Child's Liver than yield to his Luft. Whereupon , the Villain enrag'd he could not 
 compafs his defign , took his opportunity, kill'd the Child , cut out the Liver, and 
 made the Mother eat it , and then flew the Mother alio. Upon this he fled to Con- 
 stantinople, to beg pardon of the Ambaflador , and obtain'd it there: But the 
 Ambaffador at the fame time wrote word to the Governour of Candy to put him to 
 death at his return} having only granted him his Pardon, to preferve his Priviledgc 
 And indeed, to fpeak truth,the Candiots are the moft wretched people under Heaven. 
 
 Of the ISLAND of C H I O. 
 
 TH E City of Chio, which gives thelfland its Name, contains about thirty thou- 
 fand Inhabitants •, where there are little lefs than fifteen thoufand Cjreeks, 
 eight thoufand Latins , and fix thoufand Turks. 
 
 Among the feveral Greeks And Latin Churches, the Iaft of which hath continu'd 
 ever fince the time that the Genoefes poffefs'd the lfland , there are fome indifferent 
 handfom Structures. The five principal Latin Churches are the Cathedral , and 
 the Churches belonging to the Efcolantines , the Dominicans , the Jefuites , and the 
 Capuchins. The Turks have alfo their Mofquees , and the Jews their Synagogue. ■ 
 
 Four Miles from the City, near to the Sea-fide is to be feen a vaft Stone , which 
 was cut out of fome Rock*, it is almoft all round , only the upper part, which is 
 flat, and fomewhat hollow, round about the upper part, and in the middle, are 
 places like Seats , cut into the fame Stone , of which there is one higher than the reft, 
 like a School-mafter's Chair-, and Tradition reports that this was Homer's School, 
 where he taught his Scholars. 
 
 In this lfland there is fuch an infinite number of Partridges, that the like is not to 
 be found in any part of the World. But that which is a greater Rarity is this, that the 
 Natives breed them up, as we do our Poultry, but after a morepleafant manner \ 
 for they let them go in the fields all the day long, and at night every Country-man 
 calls his own feverally home to Rooft by a particular Note , whither they return like 
 a Flock of fo many Geefe. 
 
 There are great quantities of Damasks and Fuftians wrought in the lfland of Chio y 
 which are tranfported to Grand Cairo , and to all the Cities upon the Coaft of Bar, 
 hary y Natolia , and particularly to Conjiantinople. 
 
 Three Leagues from the lfland of Chio , upon a Mountain to the South there grows 
 a peculiar fort of Trees - , the Leaves are fomewhat like a Myrtle, their Branches 
 fo long that they creep upon the ground but which is more wonderful , that when 
 they are down , they rife again of themfelves. From the beginning of May to 
 the end of June , the Inhabitants take great care to keep the Earth under the Tree 
 very clean for during thofe two Months there iffues out a certain Gum from the 
 joynts of the Branches , which drops upon the ground this is that which we call 
 Maftich^, and theTwi^, Sakes, according to the Name which they give the lfland. 
 The lfland produces great {lore of this Maftick^, which is fpent in the Seraglio of 
 Constantinople , where the Women continually chew it, to cleanfe and keep their Teeth 
 white. When the Maftick^Seafon draws near, the Grand Signer every year fends 
 a certain number of Befiangi's to take care that it be not exported , but be pre- 
 ferv'd for the ufe of the Seraglio. If it be a plentiful year for Mafiict^the He flanges 
 that cull out the leffer fort to fell, put it into little Bags and feal it up $ which Bags 
 being fo feal'd , are never qucftion'd by the Cuftom-houfe Officers. The lfland alfo 
 yields very good Turpentine. 
 
 Of 
 
120 
 
 The Persian Travels 
 
 Book III 
 
 Of the J S LAND x>f N A X I S, 
 
 THere is not one Port belongs to this Ifland the. VeflTels that are Bound thi- 
 ther for Trade , being forc'd to ftay in the Haven of the Ifle of Paros , call'd 
 Defion fix miles from Naxu , which is one of the beft Havens in the Archipelago , 
 able to contain a thoufand Ships. There are the mines of a Wall ftill to be l'een 
 that made a Mole, where four or five Galleys might ride. There are alio the 
 ruines of feveral Houfes of the ancient Dukes , the Stables ftanding almoft whole, 
 all Arch'd , and built of Marble. Thefe Dukes were alfo Lords of twelve other 
 Iflands. As for the Ifland it felf, it is well ftor'd with Villages , and has three good 
 Cities , Barequa , Qufa , and Falet. 
 
 Near this Ifland within a ftones throw , there is a curious piece of Antiquity 
 ftill to be feen. It is a flat Rock , as big about in compafs as the ancient Court of 
 the Louvre. In the middle of this Rock it was that the Temple of Bacchus was 
 built all of Marble , of which there is nothing but the Foundations that remain. 
 The Gate is ftill ftanding made of three Stones, whereof two make the fides, and 
 the third lies acrols. From the Ifle to this Rock there is a fair Stone Bridge of Ffee- 
 ftone , upon each fide whereof are to be l'een the Pipes that convey'd the Wine 
 into the Temple , that was drank at the Feaft of Bacchus. Naxis alfo is the Ifland 
 that produces the beft Emeril. 
 
 As to the Inhabitants themfelves , if the Husband or "Wife happens to dye , the 
 Survivor never ftirs out of the Houfe in fix Months after , upon any bufinefs how 
 urgent foever , no not to hear Mafs. There are both Latins and Greeks in the 
 Ifland , but the latter are the raoft numerous. There is a Latin Arch-bilhop, and 
 Canons belonging to the Metropolitan Church , with two Religious Houfes, one of 
 Capuchins , and the other of fefmtes: The Greeks alfo have their Arch-bilhop. 
 
 The Ifland of Naxis is fixfcore miles in compafs , being one of the faireft and 
 pleafanteft Iflands in the Archipelago. The ancient Dukes made it their refidence , 
 whence they command the greateft part of the Cyclades. There is great plenty of 
 White Salt made in Naxis , and it produces excellent Wine both White and Claret, 
 which caus'd the Inhabitants to build a Temple to Bacchus , who according to their 
 ancient Tradition chofe that Ifland for his Habitation. The Ifland produces excel- 
 lent Fruits , feeds great ftore of Cattle , and abounds in feveral other things necef- 
 fary for human fupport. There are alfo in it large Woods full of fmall Deer , and 
 frequented by a great number of Eagles and Vultures. 
 
 Here follow the names of the Cyclades , as the people of the Country pronounce 
 them. 
 
 1. Deloa or Sdilis. ■ n. Miconoa. 
 
 2. Giaroa. 1 2. Teftoa or Tine. 
 
 3. Andros. 13. Sciroa or Sir a. 
 
 4. Paros. 14. Subiuma. 
 
 5. Nicaria. 15. Syphmts or Sifantt. 
 
 6. Samoa. 16. Nixcia. 
 
 7. Tathmoa. 17. Chios on Scio. 
 
 8. Olearoa. 18. Aftypalea. 
 
 9. Sitino. 1 9. Amorgus or Amo rgo. 
 10. Rhena. 
 
 Of the ijlmds of Zea } of Milo, of Paros » and other Iflands 
 of the Archipelago. 
 
 ZJL A is an Ifland wherein there is nothing remarkable , and from whence there 
 is nothing to be Exported but Valanede , to dye Leather withall. Neither 
 are there any Goods Imported into it but what the Pirates bring in , which 
 are very few , in regard the Ifland^ are careful to provide themfelves other- 
 where. 
 
 Milo 
 
Chap. VIII. of Monfieur Taverkier, \2t 
 
 Milo affords nothing but Millftones to grind Wheat , which are carry'd to Ow/fc*. 
 tinople. 
 
 Par os where there is no Trade neither, has nothing remarkable in it but one 
 <7w^Church, very well built all of Marble, call'd Our Lady's Church. 
 
 As for the Iflands of Sifante and Miconoa , in regard there is nothing of Trade in 
 either but only with the Pirates, who fometimes touch there, if there be any Con- 
 fids that live there , it is only to buy their ftoPn Goods. 
 
 Of the city of Athens , Corinth , Patras , Coron , and Modon. 
 
 TH E City of Athc ns is about four miles diftant from the Sea, and contains 
 two and twenty thoufand Inhabitants , twenty five thoufand Greeks , five or fix 
 thoufand Latins , and a thoufand Turks. Among all the Antiquities that yet remain 
 thofe in the Caftle are the beft preferv'd. The Caftle (lands upon a Hill , upon the 
 North defcent whereof fome part of the City ftands. It enclofes a very fair and 
 fpacious Temple , built all of white Marble from the top to the bottom , fupported 
 by (lately Pillars of black Marble and Porphiry. In the front are great Figures of 
 Armed Knights ready to encounter one another. Round about the Temple, except 
 upon the Roof, which is all of flat Marble Stones well order'd , are to be Teen all the 
 famous Afts of the Greeks in (mall carving , every Figure being about two foot and a 
 half high. Round about the Temple runs a fair Gallery , where four perfons may 
 walk a-breft. It is fupported by fixteen Pillars of white Marble upon each of the 
 fides , and by fix at each end , being alfo pav'd and cover'd with the fame Stone. 
 Clofe to the Temple ftands a fair Palace of white Marble , which now falls to decay] 
 Below the Cattle , and at the point of the City toward the Eaft , (land feventeert 
 Pillars, the remainder of three hundred , where anciently , they fay, flood the 
 Palace of Thefem firftKing of the ^Athenians. Thefe Pillars are of a prodigious 
 bignefs , every one eighteen foot about. They are proportionable in height , but 
 not all of a piece , being thwarted moft of them by Stones of white Marble ' one 
 end whereof refts upon one Pillar , and the other upon that which follows it - 
 which was the fupport of the whole building. Upon the Gate , which is yet entire^ 
 are to be feen thefe words upon the front without. 
 
 AiJU Adwxi ow(a>S w zto'^iv 7roAi$. 
 
 The City of Athens Tbds ajfuredly the City of Thefeus* 
 Within-fide of the fame City thefe other words are Engrav'd. 
 A'icfte ASwki 'AcA§i«vS mi «x> owlcx; ttoA/j. 
 
 The City of Athens is the City of Adrian , and not of The- 
 feus. 
 
 There are in Athens feveral other pieces of Antiquity which are well worthy to 
 be feen. 
 
 Corinth , which formerly made fuch a noife in the world , is now a Village of fome 
 five or fix and twenty houfes , but all of them the Habitations of rich Greeks. The 
 Town lies at the foot of the Caftle , which is feated upon an inacceffible Rock 
 guarded by the Greeks , commanded by an Aga. Corinth Exports great quantities of 
 Currants. 
 
 Patras does the fame, which is all the Trade of thofe two places. 
 
 Coron and Modon drive a Trade in Sallet-OyI , which is fo good and fo plentiful , 
 that feveral Snglifh , Dutch , and other Ships are load'n away with it from thence 
 every year. 
 
 There are Conjuls in Athens , Patras , Coron , Modon , and Napli of Roma* 
 nia, 
 
 Q_ The 
 
122 
 
 The Persian Travels Book III 
 
 The Athenian Merchants buy up Tiflues, Velvets, Satins, and Cloth, with 
 which th«y lerve other Countries adjoyning. The Commodities which Foreigners 
 export from thence , are , Silks, Wool , Sponges , Wax , Cordivan-Leather , and 
 Cheele. Which is all that can be faid in few words , of the Trade of all thefe 
 Places. 
 
 A Particular Relation of the G allies belonging to the Grand Signor, as well 
 at Conftantin'ople, as in the Ijles and other Parts of the Empire. 
 
 Formerly there lay in the Road of Conjlantinople above a hundred and fifty Gal- 
 leys : But the Grand Vifier perceiving that fo great a number did but caufe 
 confufion, and that' the Capta'm-Bajha could not conveniently take lb great a burden 
 as to look after fuch a number, he gave order that no more than twenty-four fhould 
 lie in the Port of Conftantinople ; fending the reft to other Ports, as well of the Con- 
 tinent, as the Iflands. 
 
 At prefent the Number of the Grand Signor's Gallies is'fourfcore, thus diftributed 
 under the Command of their feveral Beys or Captains. 
 
 At Conjlantinople, twenty-four under the Command of the Captain-5^<«, or Ad- 
 miral of the Sea •, who when he goes out upon any Expedition, lends to the reft to 
 meet him according to Orders. When he goes in perfon to Sea, he gives to every 
 one of his ^Slaves , befides their ordinary Habit a kind of Caflbck of Red Cloth , 
 and a Bonnet of the fame colour. But this is only in the Admiral's Gaily, and at 
 his own Coft. His Gaily carries ufually 166 Slaves, and to every Seat of the Row- 
 ers, a Bonne Vole. Thefe Bonne Voles are certain Volunteers that freely offer them- 
 lelves to the Service of the Admiral, and there is great care taken for their being 
 well paid. Their Pay is uoc Afpers for their Voyage, which generally continues 
 feven or eight Months. They feed as the other Slaves ; but if they Row negligent- 
 ly or lazily, they are beaten worfe than the Slaves for the Volunteers have nothing 
 to do except it be to Row : But the Slaves are put to feveral other Duties. Take 
 notice alfo that the Volunteers that ferve in the General's Gaily, have 500 Afpers 
 more than thofe in the other Gallies, that is to fay, 4000 Afpers for their Voyage, 
 which comes to 40 Crowns. 
 
 The Reer- Admiral carries Two hundred and fifty men, as well Slaves as Volun- 
 teers. That Galley and the great Tefterdar's or Treafurers, are the beft provided 
 of any in the whole Fleet : For the Reer-Admiral Bajha has his choice to take 
 four of the beft men out of every Galley for his own, or elfe to receive ^500 Afpers 
 for every man, which is paid by the Captain of the Galley, which makes him the 
 richeftof all the Beys. 
 
 The great Tefterdars Galley is one of the Twenty four Galleys of Conftantinople, 
 and he lends a particular Treafurer , in the quality of a Lieutenant, to command 
 her. That Command is very much contefted for , in regard that Galley is very 
 well provided with all things ; and for that all the Captains Court the Tefterdar, 
 who, when the Galleys return to Port, rewards them according to their Merit. 
 
 The Janiz.ary-Aga\ Galley is of the fame number but he never goes to Sea , 
 always lending one in his room. 
 
 The Bey of Rhodes , that takes upon him the Title of Bajha, has eight Gal- 
 leys. 
 
 The Bey of Stancho, an Ifland about an hundred Miles from Rhodes, Lieutenant 
 to the Bey of Rhodes, has one Galley. 
 
 The Bey of Snffam, a fmall Ifland near Scio, has one Galley, and his Lieutenant 
 another. Thefe Galleys are generally appointed to watch the Malteft, and Li* 
 gorn. 
 
 The Bey of Scio formerly had but three-, but fince the War with Candy, he has 
 had fix. 
 
 The Lieutenant of the Bey of Scio has two Gallies. There be alfo three other 
 Beys in the Ifland of Scio, who have no dependance upon the Bajha of Scio , but buy 
 their Provifions where they can find it beft cheap. 
 
 The Bey of Smyrna and his Lieutenant have two Gallies *, but they can do nothing 
 without the Orders of the Bey of Scio. ■ 
 
 The 
 
_ — — — 
 
 Chap.IX. of Monfieur Tavernier, 
 
 The Bey of Metelin has two Gallies. 
 
 The Bey Cavale, al'mall Bay, twelve Miles on this fide the Dardanells, upon the 
 Coaft of Europe, has one. 
 The Bey of Nefirepont , leven. 
 The Bey of Napoli in Romania, five. 
 The Bey of Cor on, one. 
 The i?£y of Modon, one. 
 The ifcy of Famagofia, uxi 
 The Bey of Alexandria in .E0/>f, five. 
 The Bey of Cane'e, two Gallies. 
 The Z?ey of Candia, one. 
 
 The .Sty of Caftel-Toumeze or Navarin, two Gallies. 
 All thefe Gallies make up the number of Fourfcore. 
 
 The light Gallies carrv not above 196 men^ the four men that are wanting of 
 two hundred, being the Bey's profit. 
 
 Every Captain is allow'd thirteen thoufand Piafiers for his Provifion -, and every 
 ChriflmM he gives to every Slave a pair of Breeches, and aCaflockof courfeClothj 
 with a fcantie kind of a Cloak. 
 
 Every Slave has every day a pound and a half of good Bread, and nothing elfe. 
 But upon Friday, which is the Mahumetans Sunday, they have hot Peafe, or Beans, 
 or Lentils boy I'd in Butter. They receive alio ibmetimes the Alms of the Greeks, 
 when they lie in any Port. But at Cotiftantinople they fare iomewhat better ; for 
 twice a week, as well the Turks, as the Greeks and others, come to the Bains, and 
 be flow their Charity of Rice and other good Vitluals. The Bains is the name of 
 the place where the Sea-men are kept when they are not at Sea. 
 
 Sometimes when they are to go to Sea, they will counterfeit themfelves fick or 
 lame ; but they are fo narrowly obferv'd, that it ferves them to no other purpofe thart 
 to procure to themfelves the more Blows. 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 A Relation of the prefent State of 'Georgia. 
 
 GEORGIA, which others call Gurgle, oxGurgiflan, extends Eaftward 
 to the Cajpian Sea ; and upon the Weft is bounded by Mountains that 
 part it from Mengrelia. Formerly it was a Kingdom, all the Inhabi- 
 tants whereof were Chriftians , of the Armenian , and of the Greeks 
 Church ; but of late the Mahometans have got footing among them. And the 
 King of Perfia having fill'd them full of Divifions , has made two Kingdoms of it, 
 which he calls Provinces } over which he has plac'd two Governors. They are ge- 
 nerally Princes of the Countrey, whomuft turn Mahometans before they can be ad- 
 mitted to that Dignity. When they are advanc'd , they take upon them the title 
 of Kings ; and while they have any Iflue, the King of Perfia cannot diipofleis their 
 Children. 
 
 The raoft Potent of thefe two Kings, is he thatrefidesat Teflis, who in the Lan- 
 guage of the Country is calPd the King of Cartele. The prelent King is the laft 
 that has continu'd a ( hriftian, with his four Sons theEIdeftof which, the King 
 of Terjia having entic'd to Court, partly by Promiies, and partly by Prefents, has 
 won to Mahumetifm. Immediately thereupon , he caus'd him to be declar'd 
 King of the other Province. 
 
 Thele two Kings have each of them a Guard of Mabiimctan-'H or femen under 
 their own pay, and at prefent I believe there are in both Kingdoms near upon 
 J 2000 Mahumetan Families. 
 
 The King of Teflis coyns Mony in the King of Perfia y s Name and the Silver 
 which he coyns, is in SpaniJIi Reals , French Crowns, and fuch other Money, 
 which the Armenians bring out of Europe for their Goods. As to the Juftice of the 
 Countrey, neither the King himfelf , nor the Mahometans have any thing to do 
 
 Q^2 with 
 
124 Persian Travels Book 111. 
 
 with it. A thief is acquitted , paying fevcn-fold what he has ftole •, two parts 
 whereof go to the Party robb'd ~ one part to the judges, and four parts to the 
 King. If the Thief has not wherewithal to make reftitution, he is fold: If the 
 Produft do not yet equal the Sum, if he have a Wife and Children, they firft fell 
 the Wife, and if that will not do, then they fell the Children: But if the Party 
 robb'd be lb merciful, as to forgive the Thief his fhare, then neither the King nor 
 the Judges can demand any thing for their fhare. If a man commit a Murder, they 
 condemn him to die,and deliver him up into the hands of. the Kindred of the Party flain, 
 to do Execution as they pleale themlelves. However , it is in their power to par- 
 don him , if he be able to give fixty Cows or more to the next a-kinto the Party 
 kill'd. In matter of Debt, a Creditor has power to feize upon all the Eftate of the 
 Debtor and if that will not fatisfie , he may fell his Wife and C hildren. 
 
 The Chriftians of Georgia are very ignorant , efpecially in Matters of Religion. 
 They learn that little they know, in the Monafteries, as alio to write and read j and 
 generally the Women and Maids are more knowing than the Men , not only be- 
 caufe there are more Religious Houfes for Women than for Men, but alio becaufe 
 the Boys are bre.l up to labour, orfent tothe Wars. For if a Viigin grows up, and 
 happens to be handfom , fome one or other prel'ently endeavors to fteal her, on pur- 
 pole to fell her into Tar^y, Perfia , or the Territories of the great Mogul. So 
 that to prevent their being ftoln, their Fathers and Mothers put them very young 
 into Nunneries, where they apply themlelves to ftudy •, wherein, if they attain to 
 any proficiency, they ufually ftayaslong as they live: After that, theyprofefs, 
 and when they come to a certain Age, they are permitted to Baptize, and to apply 
 the holy Oyles , as well as any Bifhop or Arch-Bifhop can do. 
 
 The Georgians are very great Drinkers and Nature has fitted them a Countrey 
 that produces good ftore of Wine. They love the ftrongeft Drinks beft; for which 
 reafon, at their Fcafts both men and women drink more iA qua vita than Wine. The 
 Women never eat in publick with their Husbands but when the man has invited his 
 Friends, the next day the Woman invites her She-companions. And it is obferv- 
 able that at the Womens Feftivals there is more Wine and Aquavit & drank than at 
 the mens. TheGueftis no fooner enter'd into the Dining-room, but he is prefent- 
 ed with 2 or 3 Difhes of Sweet-meats, and a Glafs of half a pint of Aqncwit& to excite 
 his Appetite. They are great Feeders upon Onions and Herbs , which they eat 
 raw out of the Garden. The Georgians are alfo great Travelleis,and very much addi- 
 cted to Trade ; they are very dext'rous in fhooting with Bow and Arrows, and are 
 accounted the beft Souldiers in aWAfia.They compofe a great part' of the King of Per/la's 
 Cavalry, who keeps them in his Court at peculiar pay, and relies very much upon their 
 fidelity and courage. There are feveral alfo in the Service of the Great Mogul. 
 The Men are very well complexion'd. and very well fhap'd ^ and for the Women, 
 they are accounted the faireft and moft beautiful of all Afia ; and therefore out of 
 this Countrey it is that the King of Perfia choofes all his Wives, being not permitted 
 to marry a Stranger. Tefiis, where the - Women have more liberty than in any 
 part of Afia, is the Capital City of Georgia, well fituated, large and well built, 
 where there likewife is a great Trade in Silk. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Chap.X. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 A G^EL ATI 0 N of the prefent State of Mengreiia. 
 
 MEngrelia extends from a Chain of Mountains, that feparates it from Geor- 
 gia to the Black^Sea, and is now divided into three Provinces (every one 
 of which has their King. Thefirftis call'd the Province of Imarete, or 
 Bajfa-Shibukj, the king whereof pretends to a iiiperiority over both the 
 other, which is the reafon they are often at War, and that with lb much 
 cruelty, tha"t when they have tak'n any Prifoners of either fide, they fell them into 
 Tnrkie. They are lb accuftom'd to fell one another in this Country, that if a man or 
 his wife have any occafion for money, they will go and fell one of their Children, and 
 many times they will exchange a Child for Ribands or other Toyes at the Mercers 
 Shops. 
 
 The fecond Province is that of Mengrelia, and the King of this Province is call'd the 
 King of Dadian. 
 
 The third is the Province of Guriel, the King of which Province is call'd the King 
 of G uriel. 
 
 The Province of Mengrelia was formerly iubject to the King of BaJJa-Shioukj, who 
 fent thither a Governour, which is call'd in their language Dadian. 
 
 One of thofe Governours being a perfon of wit and courage, gain'd fo far upon the 
 affeftion of the People, that they chole him for their King. 
 
 The chief of the Province of Guriel, ieeing how the Dadian had obtain'd the King- 
 dom, following the Example of Mengrelia, fhook off the Yoke of the King of Baffa- 
 Shiouk^, and chofe another King among themfelves, who keeps his Soveraignty to this 
 day, by the fupport of the Grand Signor. For when the Dadian rebell'd he enter'd into 
 an Alliance with the Grand Signor, and cblig'd himlelf to furnifh him every year with 
 fuch a certain quantity of Iron, upon condition that if the King of BajfaShioukJhoxxXd. 
 war upon him, he fhould furnifh him with twenty thoufand Horfe. Of which the Turk^. 
 was very glad, finding thereby the Country of Mengrelia divided, which being united, 
 was able at any time to have difturb'd him with an Army of fifty thoufand Men. 
 
 The King of Bajfa-Sbioul^ coynes money of the fame bignefs and weight with that 
 of the King of Perfia. But in regard it is not lb fine metal as that of the King Qfperpd 9 
 he would have much a doe to make it pafs in the trade between his Subjects and the 
 Perfians, which is very great, had he not found an expedient by putting the King of 
 Perftah name upon the Coyn as well as his own, which makes it pafs without any diffi- 
 culty. He would alio put the Grand Signor\ Name upon his Coyn, but that the Turl^ 
 coynes none but fmall money, or Afters, excepting only fome Ducatts which he coines 
 at Cairo. The King of Bajfa-Shiouk^, as well as the King of Tefiis coynes all fort of 
 forreign money. 
 
 Thefe three Kings of Bajfa-Shiod^, Mengrelia and Guriel , are Chriftiahs alfo. 
 And when they go to war, all the Ecdefiaftical Perfons attend them ; Arch-bifhops and 
 Bifhops j Priefts and Monks: not fo much to fight as to encourage the Souldiers, 
 
 Being at Confiantinople the firft time I travell'd into Perfia I law there anEmbafla- 
 dor from the King of Mengrelia, whole behaviour gave all the Franks occafion of laugh- 
 ter. The Prefent which he made the Grand-Signer was in Iron and Steel, and a great 
 number of Slaves. The firft time of his Audience, he had a train of above 200 Perfons. 
 But every day he fold two or three to defray his expences-, So that at his departure,he 
 had none but his Secretary and two VafTals more left. He was a man of pretence but no 
 wit : and every time he went to vifit the Grand-Vifier, he prefum'd to wear the white 
 Bonnet which all the Franks wonder'd at when they law that the Grand Vifier wink'd 
 at it. For fhould any other Chriftian have done fo, he had been moll certainly put to 
 death, or conftrain'd to turn Mahametan. By which it was apparent how much the 
 Grand Signor valu'd theFriendfhip of the King of Mengrelia, and how careful he is of 
 offending thofe that are fent from his Court. He knew thofe People fuffer no affronts, 
 but upon the Ieaftword prefently draw , befidesthat there is nothing to be got by 
 provoking them. 
 
 this Embaffadour going once upon a vifit into the Country, returning home was 
 
 furor ii'd 
 
126 
 
 Tbv Persian Travels Book III. 
 
 furpriz'd with a Storm, whereupon he puli'd off his Boots and carri'd them under his 
 Coat, choofing rather to go bare -foot to his lodging, then to fpoil his Boots. 
 
 Another time, it being thecuftomof all Catholick Ambaffadors togoto Mafs to 
 the Covent of Grey Friars in Vera , upon St. Frames day, the Mengrelian Ambaf- 
 fador after Mafs was done , coming out of the Church , and feeing feveral baubles 
 which the Pedlers expofe in the Cloyfter upon that day , bought a Tin Ring , 
 two or three fmall Looking-GhuTes , and a Pipe, which he put in his mouth, 
 and went piping all the way i'th Street , as Children do coming from Fairs. 
 
 But to return to the matter , you muft take notice that there are not only Iron 
 Mines, but alfo Mines of Gold and Silver in two places five or fix days Journey 
 from Tefiis , the one call'd Souanet, the other Obetet. But the mifchief is, the 
 people can hardly be got to work there , for fear the Earth fhould tumble down , and 
 bury them in the Mine , as it has many times happen'd. 
 
 There is alio a Mine of Gold near to a place which is call'd Hardanoufhe ', and a 
 Mine of Silver at Gunijlie-Kone , five days Journey from Erzerom , and as many from 
 Trebifond. 
 
 As for the people themfelves both Georgians and Mengrelians , they never 
 trouble themfelves about the ignorance and vicioufnes of their Priefts , or whether 
 they be able to inftrucl: them or no. Therichefl among them are they which are in 
 raoft credit , and ablolutely give Laws to the poor. There are alfo fome heads of the 
 Church , that afTume fuch a jurifdiclion over the people , as to fell them both to the 
 Turks and Ferfians , and they choofe out the handfonTft ChiIdren,both Boys and Girls, 
 to get the more money , by which authority alfo the great men of the Country enjoy 
 Marry'd Women and Maids at their pleafure. They will choofe out their Children 
 for the Bifhops while they are yet in their Cradles*, and if the Prince be difTatisfi'd at it, 
 all the Clergy joyns with him that makes the choice , and then together by the Ears 
 they go. In which Skirmifhes they will carry away whole Villages , and fell all the 
 poor people to the Turks and Ferfians. And indeed the cuftom of felling men and 
 women is fo common in that Country , that a man may almoft affirm it to be one of 
 their chiefeft Trades. 
 
 The Bifhops difiblve Marriages when they pleafe , and then Marry again after they 
 have fold the firft. If any of the Natives be not Marri'd to his fancy , he takes 
 another for fuch a time as he thinks fit, for which he pays her all the while as the 
 T arks do. Very few of thefe people know what Baptifm means. Only two or three 
 days after the woman is brought to bed, thePrieft comes and bring* a little Oyl, 
 mumbles over a few Prayers, and then anoints the Mother and the Infant, which 
 they believe to be the belt Baptifm in the World. In fhort they are a people of 
 no Devotion at all , neither in their Ceremonies nor in their Prayers. But there 
 are great ftore of Nunneries , where the young Maids apply themfelves to their 
 Studies , and after fuch an age , whether they ftay in the Nunneries or betake 
 themfelves to the* Service of any of the great Lords , they Confefs , Baptize , 
 Marry , and perform all other Ecclefiaftical Functions, which I never knew pra&is'd 
 in any other part of the World befide. 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 Of Comania , Circaffia , and of certain people Ti?hich they call 
 Kalmouchs. 
 
 COmania is bounded toward the Eaft by the Cafpian Sea WeftWard by the 
 Mountains that divide it from Circajfia\ Northward it lies upon Mufcovia^ 
 and Southward it is bounded by Georgia. From the Mountains that 
 bound upon the North-Eaft to Tercki, which is the River that parts 
 Mofcovia from Comania , it is all a level Country excellent for Tillage , and aboun- 
 ding in fair Meadows and Pafturage. However it is not over-peopl'd , which is the 
 reafon they never Sow twice together in one place. The Climate is much the fame 
 
Chap.XL of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 as between Paris and Lion , where it Rains very much ; and yet the Country people 
 have cut feveral Channels from the Rivers to water the Grounds after they have 
 Sow'd them , which they learnt from the Perfians. Thole Rivers fall from the Sou- 
 thern Mountains, being not at all tak'n notice of in the Map. There is one among 
 the reft a very large River , which can be forded at no time. They call it Coyafou , 
 or The thickjwater , in regard it is continually muddy , the ftream being fo flow, that 
 they can hardly diicern which way it runs. It falls gently into the Cafpian Sea to 
 the South of the mouth of Volga,. Not far from this River , in the months of Otto- 
 her and November , all along the Shore of the fame Sea s you may fee vaft fhoals of 
 fifh about two foot long. Before, they have two legs, like a Dog's legs , behind in- 
 flead of legs they have only claws. Flefh they have none , but only fat with a bone 
 in the middle. Now in regard they are but flow pac'd when they come upon Land, 
 the Country people eafily knock them on the head , and make Oyl of them } 
 which is the greateft Trade they have. 
 
 The people of Comania , commonly call'd Comouchs , dwell for the moft part at 
 foot of the Mountains,becaufe of the Springs fo plentiful in thole places, that in fome 
 Villages you fhall have above twenty or thirty. Three of thefe Spings meeting to- 
 gether, make a ftream ftrong enough to drive a Mill. But this is not the lble realbn, 
 for there is Water enough in the plain. But in regard they are a people that only live 
 upon the fpoil and plunder of their Enemies , and of one another , as they are in 
 continual fear of being let upon, they love to dwell near the refuge of the Moun- 
 tains , whither they fly with their Cattle upon any occafion of danger. For all 
 the people round about , as Georgians , Mengrelians, Cirkajfians, Tartars-, and Mus- 
 covites, live altogether by rapine , and continual In-roads into one anothers 
 Countries. 
 
 There are another fort of people which are call'd Kalmouchs, that inhabit upon 
 the Coaft of the Cajpan Sea between the Muscovites and the Tartars. The men 
 are ftrong , but the moft deformed under Heaven. Their faces are lb flat and broad, 
 that there is the bredth of five fingers between each Eye. Their Eyes are very 
 lmall , and that little Nofe they have is fo flat , that there is nothing to be feen but 
 two little holes inftead of Noftrils. Their Knees alfo and their Feet turn inward. 
 When they go to the Wars , they carry their Wives and their Daughters , if they 
 be twelve years of age , along with them , who fight as couragioufly as the men 
 themfelves. Their Arms are Bows, Arrows, and Skains, with a great wooden 
 Mace at the Pummel of their Saddles ; their Horfes being the belt in all Afia. Their 
 Captain is of fome ancient Family, but they more particularly choofe him for his 
 valour. The Duke of Mufcovia fends them prefents every year , to prelerve their 
 friendfhip, which prefents confift in Cloth. And he grants them free paflage 
 through his Territories, when ever they have a mind to invade the Mengrelians , 
 Georgians, or Cirkaffians , at which fport they are much more dexterous than the 
 lelTer Tartars. Sometimes they advance into Perfia , as far as the Province of the 
 Vjbekes, which is a part of Great Tartary , ranging up as far as Cabotdand Cando- 
 har. Their Religion is particular to themfelves , but they are great Enemies to 
 the Mahometans. 
 
 As for the Comouchs or people of Comania, they are Mahumetans, and very pre- 
 cife ones too. They are under the protection of the King of Perfia , who makes 
 great account of them, in regard they defend the Paffesinto his Country on that 
 fide againft the Kalmouchs. T hey are habited both men and women like the LelTer 
 Tartars, fetching all the Silk and Calicut which they ufe out of Perfia; for as for 
 Cloth , they are contented with what they make in their own Country , which is 
 very courfe. 
 
 Grcajjlaha. pleafant good Country, and full of variety. There are Plains, For- 
 refts, Hills, and Mountains abounding in Springs, fome of which are fo large , 
 that fome of them will ferve feven or eight of the neighbouring Villages. But on the 
 other fide , in all the Rivers that proceed from thefe Springs , there is not a fifh 
 to be feen. Flowers they have in abundance , cfpecially fair Tulips. There is a 
 fort of Strawberry alfo with a fhort ftalk, of which five or fix grow in a bunch", 
 the leaft are as big as a fmall Nut , of a pale yellow Colour. The Soil is fo fertile , 
 that it brings forth without any great trouble a vaft plenty of all forts of Fruits. 
 Nor do the people need any other Gardens than their Fields which are cover'd with 
 
 Cherry- 
 
128 
 
 The Persian Travels Book III 
 
 Cherry-trees , Apple-trees , Pear-trees , Walnut-trees , and all other ufeful Trees 
 of the fame nature : but their chiefeft Wealth confifts in Cattel , but elpecially in 
 well-fhap'd Horles, not much unlike the Spamjh Genncts. They have alio an abun- 
 dance of Goats and Sheep, whole Wool is as good as that of Spain ; which the Mus- 
 covites fetch away to make Felts. They neither fow Wheat nor Oats , but only Ba'rley 
 for their Korfes , and Millet to make Bread •, nor do they ever fow twice in the fame 
 place: not but that the Land is good enough to bear Wheat, but becaufe they love 
 Bread made of Millet better. T hey have very good Fowl, and Venifon, and Wild- 
 Fowl more than they know what to do withal \ which they never hunt with Dogs, 
 nor fly their Hawks at for their Horfes are fo fwift and fo good , that they will 
 tire theBeaft, and force him to lye down and yield. Ev'ry Horfe-man has a Rope 
 with a fliding-knot ready at the Pummel of his Saddle, which they are fo dextrous 
 to throw about the neck of the Beaft that begins to be weary, that 'tis twenty to 
 one if they mils him. When they have kill'd a Dear , they cut off the legs , and 
 breaking the Bones , eat the Marrow, which they fay is the beft thing in the World 
 to ftrengthen the Body. When they go to fteal Cattel , they carry along with 
 them great Cows-horns ftuft with boyl'd Tripes cut in fmall pieces •, then watch- 
 ing their times when the Herdfmen are afleep, when the Dogs begin to bark, 
 they throw to ev'ry one a Horn , with which the Dog prefently runs away : and fo 
 while the Shepherds are afleep, and the Dog is bufie to get the Meat out of the 
 Horn , which is there ramm'd in on purpoie , the Thieves drive away what they 
 pleafe. 
 
 The Drink of the Sherkes is Water and Bofa. Bofa is a Drink made of Millet, 
 as intoxicating as Wine , which they want in the Country. 
 
 The Men and the Women , Boys and Girls go habited all alike , and their Habit 
 is a colour'd Robe of Fuftian , with a kind of large Petticoat underneath •, with 
 this they wear a little pink'd Waftcoat that reaches down to their Thighs •, and over 
 that a Caffock of courfe Cloth that reaches down to their Knees, girt about their 
 Wafts with a Cord. The Sleeves of the Caffock are op'n below and above , and 
 fometimes they pin them behind their Backs. They wear no Beards 'till they are 
 fixty years of age. And as for their Hair , neither Men nor Women , Boys nor 
 Girls , ever wear it longer than the tips of their Ears. The Men , both young and 
 old, fhave the middle of their Heads aboutnhe bredth of two Fingers from the 
 Forehead down to the Nape of the Neck : and then inftead of Hats or Head-clothes, 
 both Men and Women wear only a little Bonnet of the fame Cloth as the Caffock, 
 made like a Night-cap. 'Tis true , when the Maids come to be marry'd there is 
 fome diftin&ion upon their Heads •, for then they faft'n to the hinder part of their 
 Heads a round piece of Felt , which they cover with a white Veil very artificially- 
 pleated. Their Breeches are ty'd below their Knees , and reach to their Ancles j 
 their Shooes , which are of Cordovan , both upper and under Leather , have but 
 one feam upon the upper part of the Foot , being light , and cut like a pair of 
 Pumps. 
 
 As for their Beds , they take feveral Sheep-skins and fow them together , and 
 then fluffing them full of Millet-leaves , make a kind of Quilt. Now when they 
 beat the Millet , the Leaf comes to be as fmall as the Chaff of Oats •, fo that when 
 the perfon rifes off from the Quilt , the Quilt rifes and fwells again of it felf. Their 
 Cufhions are of the fame Make, only fometimes they are ftuft with Wool. 
 
 The People are neither Chriftians nor Mahometans , all their Religion confifting 
 in fome Ceremonies which they perform with the greateft Solemnities which they 
 can imagin : for at that time old and young of all Ages and Sexes , and all the whole 
 Town muft be there at the place appointed , unlefs impotency or ficknefs excufes 
 them. I call them Villages , for in all thefe Countries their is neither Fortrefs 
 nor City : and as for their Villages , they are all built after the fame Model , round, 
 with a Piazza in the middle , according to the Figure. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
or oxe of the Villages or the 
 
 comouks 
 
Chap.XII. of Monfieur Tavernier 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Of the Cer.emonies and Cuftoms of the (people of Comania and 
 Circaffia. 
 
 THe Principal of all theFeafts which the Comouchs and Sberhes or Cirkajfa 
 arxmake, is that which they make at the end of Autumn, after this 
 manner. Three of the ancienteft of the Village are appointed to ma- 
 nage it , and to difcharge themfelves of a Duty impos'd upon them in 
 the company of all the people.Thefe three old men take a Sheep or a Goat, and having 
 mutter'd certain Prayers over the Beaft , they cut the throat of it ! after they have 
 dreft it very clean, they boil it whole, all but the Gathers, and them they roaft. 
 The Sheep being boiPd , they fet it upon a Table, and carry it into a large Barn, 
 where the People are appointed to meet: There the three old men ftand upright 
 before a Table, and all the People, Men, Women and Children behind them. When 
 the Table upon which the Meat ftands, is brought in, two of the three old men cut 
 off the Legs and the roafted Gathers, and hold them up above their heads, and the 
 third holds up a great Cup of Bofa in the fame manner, to the end the people behind 
 may fee them. When the people fee the Meat and Bofaio lifted up, they proftrate 
 themfelves upon the ground, andfo continue till all the reft of the Meatbefetup- 
 on the lefTer Table, and that the old men have faid fome few word. Then the two 
 old men that held up the Meat, cut off two little pieces, and give each of them a 
 piece to him that holds the Cup, which being done, they take each of them apiece 
 for themfelves. When they have all three eaten of the meat, the old man that holds - 
 the Cup, drinks firft, then gives the two old men to drink, firft to him upon the 
 right hand, next to him upon the left, never letting go the Cup all the while. This 
 firft Ceremony being thus accomplifh'd, the two old men turn toward the Alfembly, 
 and go and prefent both of the Meat and the Drink , firft to their Chief or Lord, then 
 to all the people, who equally eat their fhare, both men and women. That which 
 remains of the four feet, is carry'd back to the Table, and the three old men eat it. 
 This done, they go and place themfelves at the Table, where the Mutton is fet, 
 where the oldeft of the three taking the Head, eats a little Morfel •, after him, the 
 fecond, and next to him, the third does the fame. Then the firft old man commands 
 the reft to be carry'd to the Lord, who receives it with a great deal of refpeft, and 
 after he has giv'n it to his next a-kin, or the Friend whom he loves beft, the Head is 
 giv'n from one to another, till it be eat'n up. This being done, the three old men 
 begin to eat of the Mutton a bit or two , and the Lord of the Village is call'd, 
 who comes with his Bonnet in his hand, in a trembling pofture to whom, one of the 
 old men prefenting a Knife, he cuts off apiece of Mutton, and eats-, and having 
 drank a Cup of Bsfa, he returns to his Seat. After him, all the people, according 
 to their turns in quality, do as. much and then , for the Bones the Children go to- 
 gether by the ears among themfelves. 
 
 They have another Feaft before they begin to Mow their Meadows ; at which 
 time all the people of the Village , that have wherewithal, take every one a Goat , 
 ( for in their Ceremonies they efteem Goats better than Sheep ) and for the poor, 
 they join eight or ten together for a Goat. Let them be Goats, Sheep or Lambs, when 
 they are all brought together,they cut their Throats, and then flea oflrtheskin, leaving 
 the four feet and the Head in it. Then they ftretch the Skin with fticksthat crofs 
 from one foot to the other, and fet it up on a Polefix'd in the Earth, the top whereof 
 enters into the head of the Beaft, as- is to be feen in the Figure of the Village-, and 
 as many Beafts as there are kill'd, fo many Poles are planted in the midft of the Vil- 
 lage, with every one a particular Skin upon it ; to which , every one that paffes by, 
 maks a profound obeyfance. 
 
 Ev'ry one having boil'd his Goat, brings it into the void place in the middle of 
 the Village, and fets it upon a great Table with the reft. There is the Lord of the 
 Village with his Servants, and fometimes the Lord of fome other Village is invited, 
 Kow all this Viflaials being upon the Table, three of the oldeft men of th? Village 
 
 R fit 
 
130 The Persian Traveli Book III. 
 
 fit down and eat a Bit or two : Then they call the Lord of the Town , and if there 
 be any other Lord, they come both together, with feme other of the Seniors of the 
 Parifh} who being fet down, eat up one of the Beafts, which the old men had fet 
 apart for them; the reft is divided among the people, fitting upon the ground. 
 
 There are fome Villages where you (hall have fifty Goats and Sheep, or Lambs 
 and Kids, kill'd together at one time. As for their Bofa> there are fome that bring 
 above 2co Pints i others more or lefs , according to their quality. All the day long 
 they eat and drink, and fing and dance to their Flutes a dozen together , which are 
 in fome meafure harmonious, as confiding of feveral parts, and decreafing propor- 
 tionably from the Treble to the Bafe. When the old men have folac'd themfelves 
 with eating and drinkiug, they go home, and leave the young people, Men and Wo- 
 men, Boys and Girls to be merry by themfelves: They ftay as long as there is any 
 Drink and the next day they go early to Mowing. 
 
 They have other Ceremonies particular only to their Families. Once a year in 
 every Houfe they make a Crofs after the Form of a Mallet , about five Foot high , 
 the two Sticks that compofe the Crofs, being as big as a man's A rm. This the Mafter 
 of the Houfe lets in the Evening near the Door in his Chamber, and calling aH his 
 Family together, gives them every one a lighted Wax-Candle. Then firft he fixes 
 his own to the Crofs, next his Wife ftickshers, and fo all the Children and Servants : 
 If the Children be fo young, that they cannot do it themfelves, the Father and Mo- 
 ther do it for them. If one of the Candles burn out before it be put out, 'tisaPro- 
 gnoftick that he or fhe that fix'd it there , fhall not live out their year. If the Can- 
 dle falls, then he whofe Candle it was, fhall be robb'd, or be forc't to fly for his 
 Life. 
 
 If it thunders, all the people run out of the Village * and the young people of 
 both Sexes fet themfelves to finging and dancing in the prefence of their Elders : 
 And if any one be Thunder-ftruck, they bury that perfon honourably, believing him 
 to be a Saint. Befides that, they fend over all the Countrey for a white Goat, 
 which they breed up and keep in the Village where it happen'd to thunder, having it 
 in great veneration, till thundring in another place, the people fend for it thither 
 alfbi If the Thunder fall upon any of their Houfes, though it kill neither Man , 
 Woman, Child, nor Beaft, all that Family fhall be kept upon the publick ftock all 
 that year , without being ty'd to any Labour but of Singing and Dancing. Thefe 
 people, during that time, go from Village to Village Dancing and Singing at peoples 
 Doors, but never going into their Houfes } for which the Inhabitants are bound to 
 bring them out fomething to eat. 
 
 There is a day in the Spring, when all that have been ftruck'n with Thunder, meet 
 together in the Village where the white Goat is kept •, who has always a Cheefe hang- 
 ing about his Neck as big as a iVw^-Cheefe. This Goat they take and carry to the 
 Village of the chief Lordof theCountrey. They never go in, but the Lord with 
 all the reft of the Village coming out, they all together proftrate themfelves before 
 the Goat. Having laid fome Prayers, they take away his Cheefe, and immediately 
 put another in its place. The Cheefe which was taken away, is at the fame time cut 
 into little pieces , and diftributed among the people. After that , they give the 
 Strangers to eat, and beftow their Alms upon them} lb that by this wand ring from 
 Village to Village, they get good (tore of Money. 
 
 They have among them but only one Book} and it is as big as one of ourlargeft 
 Tolio\ and it lies in the hands of an old man, who has only the priviledge to touch it. 
 When that old man is dead, they choofe another old man to keep the Book •, whofe 
 Duty it is to go from Village to Village, where he hears of any fick people. He 
 carries the Book with him, and after he has lighted up a Wax-Candle, and put the 
 people out of the Room, he lays the Book upon the Stomach of the fick perfon, opens 
 it, and reads in it, then blows over it fev'ral times, fo that the Breath paffes toward 
 themouthof the Party: Then he caufes the party difeas'd to kifs the Book feveral 
 times, and as often lays it upon his head, which is a Ceremony of half an hour. When 
 the old man goes away, one gives him a Beef or a Heifer } another gives him a Goaf, 
 every one according to their Quality and Eftate. 
 
 They have alfo Old Women that take upon them to cure the Sick. Thefe Women 
 feel the body of the fick party, all over, but more particularly they handle and grope 
 that part where the diftemper lies : during which time they let go feveral belches out 
 
 of 
 
Chap.XU. of Monfieur Ta vernier. 131 
 
 of their mouthes,and the morefick the party is, the louder and thicker, they fetch their 
 belches. Theftanders by hearing them belch in that manner and fetch iuchvilanous 
 hghs from their ftomacks, believe their friend to be dangeroufly ill, and that the louder 
 the Women belch,the more eafe and comfort they receive •, but whether they do or no, 
 the women are well payd for their pains. When any one feels a pain in the Head, they 
 lend for the Barber, who gives two cutts upon the Head acrofs with the rafor, and then 
 pourcs Oyl into the wound. For they believe the Head-ache proceeds only from a 
 wind beeween the flefh and the bone, for which the Incifion opens a paflage to let 
 it but. 
 
 At their Funerals they that are the near Relations or Friends of the dead, fome cut 
 their faces, and other parts of their Bodies with iharp flints, others proftrate themfelves 
 upon the ground, and tear their hair \ lb that when they return from the Burial^ they 
 are all of a gore blood : However, notwithftanding all this affliction , they never 
 pray for the Dead. 
 
 As to their Marriages : When a young man has feen a Virgin which he has a liking 
 to, he fends one of his friends to agree with her Parents or her Tutor, what he will 
 give for her. Commonly the guift confifts in Hoiles, Cows or fome other fort of Cat- 
 tel. When the agreement is made, the Parents and Kindred of the party thereby con- 
 tracted, together with the Lord of the place, go to the Houfe where the Virgin lives 
 and bring her to the Bridegrooms Houfe, where there is a Feaft ready prepar'd j 
 and after they have made merry , and fung , and dane'd for a while, the Bride- 
 groom and Bride go and lye together, without any other Ceremony. If the Man and 
 Maid are of two Parifhes, the Lord of the Village where the Man lives, accompany 
 him and his Kindred to the next Village altogether, to fetch the Bride from 
 thence. 
 
 If a Man and the Wife have no Children, he is permitted to takefeveral Wives one 
 after another till he have Iflue. If a marri'd Woman have a Gallant, and that the 
 Husband mould come and find his Wife a bed with him, he goes away again without 
 faying a word, and never takes any further notice of it. The Woman alio in the fame 
 cafe, does the like by the man. Nay, the more Gallants a Woman has, the more (he is 
 reipe&ed : And it is a common cuftom when they fall out, to taunt one another, 
 that if they were not ugly, or ill natur'd, or difeas'd, they would have more Admirers 
 than they have. The People are of an excellent Complexion, efpecially the Women, 
 who are extreamly fair, and finely fhap'd , and keep their beauty till five and forty or 
 fifty years. They are very laborious, and work themfelves in the Iron Mines, which 
 they melt afterwards and forge into feveral Tooles and Implements. They make abun- 
 dance of Embroidery of Gold and Silver for their Saddles, their Quivers, and their 
 Pumps, as alfo upon the Calicut of which they make their Handkerchiefs. 
 
 If the man and the woman happen to quarrel often together, fo that they cannot be 
 reconcil'd : the Husband complaining firft to the Lord of the Place, He fends for 
 the Woman, and having giv'n order to fell her, gives the Man another. But if the 
 Woman complain firft, the Man is ferv'd the fame fawce. If a Man or Woman be a 
 difturber of their Neighbours, if the Neighbours complain to the Lord, he prefently 
 caufes the party to be apprehended and fold to the Merchants that buy Slaves, for they 
 arerefolv'd they will live in quiet. 
 
 They that take upon them the quality of Gentlemen, fit ftill, do nothing, and fpeak 
 very little. In an evening they ride out, and meet fome twenty or thirty together to go 
 a dealing. Nor do they rob only their Enemies, but their Neighbours^ from whom 
 the chief prey which they take are Cattle and Slaves. All the Country-people are 
 Slaves to the Lord of the Village where they live, whom he imploys to till his Land., 
 and cut Wood for him upon occaflon, of which they fpend vaft quantities. For not be- 
 ing very warm clad, they keep fire all night in the places where they deep. 
 
 CHAP, 
 
132 The Persian Travels Book III. 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 Of the kffer Tartars , call'd Nogaies , lord' ring upon Co- 
 mania. 
 
 TH E lefTer Tartars have a very ancient race of Horfes, which they breed 
 up even to Superftition^ fo that it would be among them an aft of 
 Sacriledge to fell them to ftrangers, as being not a little curious 
 how they fell them to one another. Thefe are the Horfes which they 
 ride, fifty or fixty in a Troop together when they go a thieving \ and fometimes 
 a hunder'd together , when they defign any Incurfion upon their Enemies. When 
 the old Men come to be infirm and impotent , if they know any ftout young Man 
 that is a Souldier, they willjend him one of their Horfes ( if he have none of his 
 own ) to make an Incurfion , upon condition to have half of the Booty. Many 
 times they run up as far as Hungary , near to Comora and Javarin. Thefe Horfes, 
 partly by nature, partly by early cuftom, will travel four or five days together 
 with a handful of Grafs giv'n them once in eight or ten hours , and a little Water 
 every four and twenty hours. But they never go a robbing with them 'till they 
 come to be feven or eight years old : befides that , they rauft undergo a very 
 fevere education ere they make ufe of them in thofe hardfhips. Their Bit is only 
 a piece of Iron with a Buckle on each fide , to which they faft'n the Bridle and 
 Head-ftall. For eight days together they put under the Saddle a bag of Gravel 
 or Earth. The firft day the Sack is a Horfe-man's weight ^ and fo they add to it 
 every day, 'till it come to be double the weight at the end of the eight days. As 
 they increafe every day the weight upon the Horfes back , they abate every day 
 the Horfe's Provender and Drink. During thefe eight days , they get up and walk 
 the Horfe two or three Leagues. The next eight days , they abate every day of 
 the weight , 'till the Sack be quite empty. Proportionably alio they abate him of 
 his Meat and Drink as in the firft eight days , and every day take up the Girt 
 a hole (hotter. The three or four laft days they afford the Horfe neither Proven- 
 der nor Drink , according as they find him able to endure hunger and thirft, and 
 the labour which he is to undergo. The laft day, they work him 'till he be all over 
 of a Sweaf, then they unbridle and unfaddle him , and pour upon him the coldeft 
 Water they can meet with. That done , they lead him into a field, and tye him 
 by the leg with a Cord , at fuch a length as they intend he (hall feed } yet ftill from 
 day to day allowing him more Rope, 'till at laft they let him lool'e , and feed with 
 the reft of the Horfes. This terrible falling and labour, during which time, that 
 little which they do eat and drink , they eat and drink with the Bit in their mouth, 
 brings them to be fo lean and out of flefh , that their very bones are ready to ftart 
 out of their skins: So that if any one fhould fee them in that miferable condition, 
 that does not know the nature of the Horfes, would think they would never be fit 
 for good fervice. The hoofs of thefe Horfes are fo hard that they never fhooe 
 them, and yet they will leave the prints of their feet in the Earth, or upon the Ice, 
 as if they had been fhod. Thefe Tartars are'fo curious in having Horfes that will 
 endure labour , that fo foon as they fee any handfom Colt in their Breed , they 
 prefently take him up, to fchool him as I have related : but hardly ten in fifty endure 
 the tutoring. 
 
 As for their Diet , 'tis a great advantage for thefe Tartars to ride a Mare , in 
 regard they drink the Milk. They that ride Horfes , carry along with them a 
 little Bag full of pieces of Cheefe dry'd in the Sun they have alfo a fmall Boracho 
 of Goat-skin , which they fill with Water where they meet with it , irtto which 
 they put two or three bits of their hard Cheefe , which foftens with the motion of 
 the Horfe , the Boracho being ty'd under his Belly : and thus the Water becomes 
 a kind of fowr Milk , which is their ordinary Drink. 
 
 As for their Inftruments of Cookery, every Horfe-man has a large wooden Ladle 
 hanging at the Pommel of his Saddle, out of which the rider drinks himfelf, and gives 
 his Horfe likewife to drink. They that encounter them , can hope for no.better Booty 
 
 than 
 
Chap.XIII. of Monfieur Tavernier 
 
 than their Horfes j but they are very hard to be tak'n • for when one of thefe Horfes 
 perceives that his Rider is flain, he follows thofe that fly with all the fwiftnefs ima- 
 ginable. Befide that, thole Horfes being carri'd into other Countries, areprefently 
 ipoil'd , and come to nothing. 
 
 Their Cloathing is only a Sheep-skin, which in Winter they wear with the woo! 
 next their Bodies-, in the Summer turning the other fide. They that are the Nobi- 
 lity of the Countrey, wear Wolves-skins, with a kind of Shirt, and Breeches of 
 courfe Fuftian of divers Colours, which the Taylor gets little credit by fha- 
 P in g- 
 
 Their Women are very white and well proportioned, but their Faces are broad, and 
 their Eyes little, fo that by thirty years of Age they become very deformed. There 
 is not a man but has two or three Wives, which they never choofe but out of their 
 own Tribe. Every Tribe has a Chief; who is one of the Nobility of the Countrey, 
 and carries for his Banner a Horfe-tail faften'dto a half-Pike, and dy'd into the Co- 
 lour belonging to the Tribe. When they march, every one knows where to place 
 himfelf, and how much ground they ought to take up for their Tribe and their 
 Cattel :, one Tribe never encroaching upon another. 
 
 The Women and Maids are generally clad in a large Shirt that reaches down to 
 their feet. Upon their Heads they wear a large white Vail, their Foreheads being 
 bound about with a large black Handkerchief ty'd in five or fix Rolls. The Noble 
 fort of Women and Maids wear over this Vail a Bonnet open behind, which comes 
 down upon their Foreheads like a three*-corner'd Cap : One of thefe Points ftands up 
 in the midft of the Forehead, lin'd with Velvet, Satin, or Cloth of Gold, and fet 
 with fmall pieces of Gold and Silver, and falfe Pearls , of which they alfo make 
 themfelves Bracelets : Their Breeches are of fingle-colour'd Cloth, and for Shoes 
 and Stockings , they only wear a Cordovan Boot of what Colour theypleafe, neatly 
 few'd. 
 
 When a young man intends to marry, it behoves him to give the Father and the 
 Mother of the Maid a certain quantity of Horfes, Bullocks or Cows , or other Cat- 
 tel, which is done in the prefence of the greateft part of the ancienteft of the Tribe, 
 ami a Moullah befide. When the Agreement is made, the young man has the liber- 
 ty to lee his Miftrefs, but not till then : For before, he has only the information of 
 her Mother, his Sifters , or fuch Women as were his own Friends. Befides the 
 three Wive« which the man is allow'dto take, he may keep feveral female Slaves*, 
 but the Children are ftillflaves, and can never inherit. Thefe Tartars are of a ve- 
 ry hot constitution, though not fo hot as the women. Both the one and the other 
 are very fair-hand:, but the men have little or no Beards: So that if there beany 
 one that has more Beard than ordinary, and can but write and read, they make him a 
 Monllah. , , 
 
 Thefe people have no Houfes, but live in Tents, or in Waggons which are drawn 
 after them where-ever they go. The Tents are for the old people and little Chil- 
 dren , with their Slaves that attend them. The young women ride in Waggons 
 clos'd up with Boards, and to let in the Air, upon one fide they open a Window 
 that is made like a Lattice. In the Evening they are permitted to fpend a little 
 time in the Tents. When the Girls have attain'd to the age of ten or twelve Years, 
 they never Mir any more out of their Waggons till they are married, not fo much 
 as for the neceflkies of Nature *, but in the middle of the Waggon there is a Plank to 
 be taken up ; and if it be in a place where they May, a Slave prefently comes and 
 cleanfes all underneath. The Maidens Waggon is eafie to be known , as being 
 painted with Flowers •, and generally there is a Camel ty'd to the Tail of it, befmear'd 
 with feveral colours, and feveral Nofegaysor Pofies of Flowers ftuck about the Head 
 of the Bcaft. 
 
 The young men have alfo everyone their Chariot, wherein they only carry a Bo- 
 rAcho of Horfe-sk in , containing about 38 Quarts, which they ufually fill with 
 Mares-Milk , which is very fowr. They have alfo every one another Waggon next 
 to that wherein they ride themfelves •, wherein they carry feveral Boracho's full of 
 Cows-Milk, which' is very fowr. At Meals they drink this Milk : But before they 
 powr it out, they ftir it in the Boracho with a great Stick, that the Curd may mix 
 with the thin Milk. But the Mares-Milk is only for the Mafter and Miftrefs, though 
 before they drink of cither, they mix it with water. When a Friend comes to fee 
 . • thero ? 
 
134 Persian Travels Book III. 
 
 them, they fetch out their dri'd Cheefe , which they call Kourout , and breaking it 
 into little Bits, eat it with frefh Butter. At their Feafts they fometimes kill old 
 Sheep, fometimes old Goats. But for their Horles they never kill them but at the 
 Funerals of their Kindred, at the Birth of a Child, or at their Marriage-Feafts, or 
 laftly, when their Friends return laden with Spoil from any incurfion, and are ftor'd 
 with Slaves. They never drink any thing but Mares-Milk or Cows-Milk, and when 
 they can get neither, they will endure thirft for three or four days together before 
 they will drink Water, being always grip'd with a terrible Colick when they drink 
 it. They never eat any Salt, being of an opinion that it is naught for the Eyes. 
 They live long, and are very ftrong, and leldom nek', nor do they refule any Diet 
 but Swines-flefh. 
 
 Their' Countrey is very level •, only for fome few Hills in fome places. They 
 have great (lore of Pafture-grounds, and every Tribe has their peculiar Wells to 
 water their Cattel. In the Winter they lodge upon the banks of great Rivers, near 
 to Woods and Marifhes, fuffering their Herds }o feed at liberty. When the Snow 
 is very deep , the Cattel fcrape it away with their feet to come at the Grafs, 
 though they meet with very little elfe but Reeds and Bufhes. In the mean while the 
 men cut down the Woods , make great Fires, and employ themfelves in Fifhing. 
 There are fome parts of thefe Rivers where the leaft Fifh they take is about four or 
 five foot long-, and fome there are above ten or twelve foot in length. Some they 
 dry in the wind, and preferve againft Summer - , fome they fmoke in holes which they 
 make in the Earth : As for the fmaller fort, they boil them, and eat them without 
 Salt or any other feafoning. When they have eat'n their Fifh, they fcoop up a large 
 wooden Ladle full of the Fifh-water and gulp it down. As for Bread, there is no 
 talk of it in their Countrey. 
 
 When they are not at Wars, or are but newly return'd from any Incurfion, 
 they fpend their time in Hunting •, but cannot endure any other Hounds except 
 Greyhounds : So that he muft be a very poor Tartar indeed that do's not keep 
 a Greyhound. Take notice however by the by, that thefe petty Tartar s y concerning 
 whom I have laft difcours'd, are certain people adjoyning to Comania , which the 
 Turks, Perfiarts and Mengrelians call Nogaies •, who may be well reckon'd among the 
 number of the petty Tartars , in regard they are all under one Prince, whom the 
 Grand Signor appoints King over all Petty Tartary, and who receives his inveftiture 
 at Conflantinople- 
 
 Thefe Tartars are all Mahumetans. Nor have they any Phyfitian among them ; 
 making ufe only of certain Simples of which they have a traditional knowledge. 
 When the fickperfon lies in any extremity, they fend for a Moullab y who comes with 
 the Alcoran, which he opens and fhuts three times, laying certain Prayers, and lay- 
 ing it upon the fick perfon's face. If by chance the fick perfon recover, they at- 
 tribute his recovery to the SanQity of the <tAkoran y and prefent the Monllab with 
 a Sheep or a Goat: If he die, all his Kindred meet and carry him to the Grave with 
 great Teftimonies of Sadnels, crying continually Alla^ Alia. When he isinterr'd, 
 the Moullab mutters certain Prayers ov'r the Grave, and is paid for his pains according 
 to the wealth of the Heirs. For the poor he generally lpends three days and three 
 nights in that exercife for the rich he as ufually fpends a Month, never ftirring all 
 the while from the Grave , and fometimes fev'n or eight. 
 
 When any one of them is wounded, they ufe no other Salve but only boil'd Flefh, 
 which they apply hot to the wound. If the wound be deep, they thruft in a piece 
 of Fat as hot as the wound can endure it \ and if the perfon be able to kill a Horfe , 
 the wound is cur'd fo much the fooner for the Flefh and Fat of a Horle are much 
 more medicinable than the Flefh of any other Creature. 
 
 Were it not the Cuftom of the Tartars to buy their Wives when they marry, there 
 would be fewer Whores. But in regard there are an abundance of poor young men 
 that have not wherewithal to buy Wives, they never marry at all. This is that which 
 makes fo many Souldiers among them, and emboldens 'em to invade their Neigh- 
 bors, and to get fomething whereby they may be enabl'd to buy them a Wife. For 
 the Virgins they are nev'r to be defil'd, being always fhut up in their Waggons : But 
 for the Women they are oft'n debauch'd, appointing their private Meetings, when 
 they go to fetch water for their Cattel, when their Husbands are a-hunting, or look- 
 ing after their Herds. Nor is it a hard thing to conceal it from their Husbands, in 
 regard the Tartars are not in the leaft prone to Jealoufie. ' . By 
 
Ghap.XIII. of Monfieur Taverhier. 
 
 By the way take notice,that the Noga'ie j, though they live almoft after the fame man- 
 ner as the T artars, and are under the fame Prince, yet they perfectly hate them 3 
 reproaching them for effeminate, becaufe they live in HouTes and Villages , whereas 
 the true Souldier fhould live in Tents as they do, to be ready upon all occafions. 
 
 They that run a-foot, as well in thefe Countries, as in Perjia, when they are wea- 
 ry, take Walnuts and bruife them, and then rub the Soles of their feet with them 
 before the fire as hot as they can endure itj which prefently makes them fredi 
 again. 
 
 Having thus done with all the feveral Roads here follows an Alphabetical Table 
 of the Longitudes and Latitudes of all the Principal Cities of the whole Empire of 
 Perjia. 
 
 THE 1 
 
 LONGITUDES and LATITUDES 
 
 OF THE 
 
 Principal Cities of Persia, according as the Geographers 
 of thofe Countries place them. 
 
 A. 
 
 AAmoul is in 71 Degrees, 20 Min. of Longitude, 36 deg. of Latitude. The 
 Lands about this City abound in Prunes. 
 Abeher, in 7 4 deg. 2 o min. Long. 3 6 deg. 1 5" min. Lat. 1 2 Leagues from Casbin, 
 a fmall City y but the Land is good about it. 
 
 Abfecun, in 79 deg. 1 5 min. Long. 37 deg. 10 min. Lat. A fmall City in an ex- 
 cellent Soil. 
 
 Abdebil, in 6.0 deg. 2 o mirr. Long, 3 6 deg. 24 min. Lat. The Inhabitants are rnoli 
 Chriftians ,- and there are many ancient Churches in it. It depends upon ShI- 
 tany. 
 
 Ahwaz.,- 70 deg. 1 5 min. Long. 3 1 deg. 1 ? min. Lat. A fmall City half ruiri'd, 
 in the Province of Belad-Cowejion, ' in a Soil that yields excellent Fruits. 
 
 Arbella, 69 deg. ?o min. Long. 3 6 deg. 20 min. Lat. A finall Champaign City , 
 where Provifions are Cheap. 
 
 Ar devil, 6 2 deg. 3 o min. Long: 3 8 deg. t 5 min. Lat. 
 
 Ardefton, 77 deg. 10 min. Long. 3 3 deg. 7 min. Lat. Famous for the Copper 
 Veflels that are there made. . 
 
 Arion, 74 deg. 32 min. Long. 32 deg. 2 j min. Lat. One of the three places 
 where Olives grow in all Perjia: 
 
 Ajfed-Abad, 63 deg. 40 min. Long. 3 4 deg. 50 min. Lat. A fmall City toward' 
 Amadan. 
 
 Ava , 75 deg. 10 mm. Long; 34 deg. 40 min. Lat. This is a very fmalf 
 place. 
 
 Azadkar, or Tevin^i deg. 1.5 min. Long. 3 6 deg. 3 2 min. Lat. A City in a great 
 Plain, where there are above four hundred Channels under-ground, 
 
 B~ 
 
 BabSlAbjb, or, the gate of Gates', call'd alfo Demir-cap, or, the gate of 
 Iron. The Tartars call it Mo?i]on\ 75 deg. 1 js min. Long. 45 deg, 1 5 mint. Lat. It 
 has been formerly a ftrong place. Badkeiftj 
 
136 The Persian Travels Book HI. 
 
 Badkeift, 85 cleg. 32 mm. Long. 35 dcg. 20 min. Lat. A fraall, but moll pleafant 
 City , and well built. 
 
 Bafte , 80 deg. 15 min. Long. 29 deg: 15 rain. Lat. A City in the Province of 
 Kerman , where in Summer the Mornings are very cold , the Afternoons hot j yet 
 the Air very good. 
 
 BafroHche , fee Mahmeter. 
 
 Bey logon , 63 deg. 52 min. Long. 41 deg. 20 min. Lat. A City toward the Cajpian 
 Sea , in a Country abounding in Corn and Fruit. 
 
 Balk., 91 deg. 36 min. Long. 3 8 deg. 10 min. Lat. Three days journey from 
 M«nltan. 
 
 Bern, or Bembe*, 74 deg. 1 5; min. Long. 28 deg. 20 min. Lat. Thought to have 
 been built by Caliph Monktadar, near the great Defert of Berjham. 
 
 Berdoe , 63 deg. 15 min. Long. 35 deg. 30 min. Lat. It lyes furrounded with 
 Pafture-grounds , which breed great (lore of Cattel. 
 
 Berz.e*de \ 63 deg. 1 4 min. Long. 37 deg. 40 min. Lat. Here are made a fort of 
 courfe Druggets for ordinary people. 
 
 Befton, 79 deg. 15 min. Long. 37 deg. 20 min. Lat. It lyes in a Country 
 abounding in Corn and Fruits. 
 
 Bimoneheer, 74 deg. ie min. Long. 37 deg. 30 min. Lat. Here is great Trade 
 for Silk. 
 
 Bofi, 91 deg. 28 min. Long. 3 2 deg. 16 min. Lat. A great City", to which be- 
 longs the faireft and ftrongeft Caftle in all Perfia. 
 
 Bourou-Jerde , 74 deg. 30 min. Long. 34 deg. 20 min. Lat. Famous for Saffron, 
 and for being the native City of many Learned Men. 
 
 J C. \ 
 
 Chemkon y 63 deg. 13 min. Long. 41 deg. 15 min. Lat. 
 Chiras , 78 deg. 15 min. Long. 29 deg. 36 min. Lat. 
 
 Chirvan, or JLrivan\ 63 deg. 15 min. Long. 3 8 deg. 3 2 min. Lat. Here all the 
 Silk-Caravans rendevous } and it is one of the richeft Kanats or Governments in Perjia. 
 
 D. 
 
 t "%ywO iflOjsl. ..•3U£KC«-» ■ ■ .lJ.}*«Riin X •e? :J * ■ • - • •'•'••\ 0 ' i 
 
 Dankon, 78 deg. 15 min. Long. 30 deg. 15 mm. Lat. A bad Town, in a bad 
 Soil. 
 
 Darabgnired, 80 deg. 1 5 min. Long. 3 o deg. 1 5 min. Lat. In feveral parts round 
 about this City they meet with Salt of feveral colours, as fed and green, black 
 and white. Here they alfo make long-neck'd Glafs-Bottles , which are very curious 
 worki nor are they without Sider to fill thofe Bottles, in regard of the great plenty 
 of Apples thereabouts. Near to the City there is a Sulphur-Mine , and great (tore 
 of Mummy, very much efteem'd in Perfia. 
 
 Debefton, 80 deg. 15 mm. Long. 38 deg. 15 mm. Lat. This is not properly z 
 City, but a great many Villages joyn'd together. 
 
 Deras , 79 deg. 30 min. Long. 31 deg. 32 min. Lat. 
 
 Devinmaat , 62 deg. 5 min. Long. 38 deg. 40 min. Lat. 
 
 Din Ver y 63 deg. 1 5 min. Long. 3 5 deg. Lat. A City in a fruitful Soil , ftor'd 
 with Mofquees. 
 
 Dodad, 74 deg. 15 mm. Long. 37 deg. 50 mm. Lat. The Country about is full 
 of black Mulbery -trees. 
 
 Dourak^, 74 deg. 3 2 min. Long. 3 2 deg. 1 ^ min. Lat. Here they make the loofe 
 CafTocks without Sleeves which the Arabians wear. Near to this City the Rivers 
 Tigris and Euphrates , meeting at a place call'd He lid , make a Marfh , where grow 
 the Reeds of which the Eaftern people make their Pens. 
 
 E. 
 
 Elalbetem , 87 deg. 15 min. Long. 37 deg. 15. min. Lat. 
 Eitiib , 70 deg. 1 5. min. Lon. 32 deg. 15. min. Lat. 
 j JEnderab, 93 deg. 15 min. Long. 32 deg. 15 min. Lat~ 
 
 JErivan, 
 
Chap.XHI. of Monfieur Tavernier 
 
 Erivan, fee Chirvatt. 
 
 Eftharaien, 81 deg.40 rain. Long. 37 deg. 15 min. Lat. The Country about it 
 abounds in Pears and Apples. 
 
 Sfiakre, 78 deg. 30mm. Long. 30deg. 15 min. Lat. The ancient City in the 
 Province of Fars, properly Perfia ; in a Soil abounding in Vines and Date-trees, 
 
 Efierabat, 75 deg. 35 min. Long. 36 deg. 50 min. Lat. 
 
 F. 
 
 Ferah , 18 deg. 1 5 min. Long. 39 deg. 1 5 min. Lat. Built by sAbdatla the Son 
 of Taker, in the time of Maimon Re(hid , Caliph of Bertii-Abbas. 
 
 Ferouaabad, 82 deg 3 2 min. Long. 30 deg. 10 min. Lat. Anciently call'd Hour- 
 heUhion. 
 
 G. 
 
 Girefte, 73 deg. 40 min. Long. 31 deg. 10 min. Lat. One of the biggeft Cities 
 in the Province of Kerman. The Trade of the City confifts in Hones and Wheat. 
 
 Girreadegon, vulgarly Paygon , 75 deg. 3 5 min. Long. 34 deg. 15 min. Lat. 
 
 Gontem, 74deg. 46 min. Long. 37 deg. 20 min. Lat. A little City, full of Silk- 
 Twifters. 
 
 H. 
 
 Hamadan, 75 deg. 20 min. Long. 34 deg. Lat. The Country about it breeds 
 great ftore of Cattel. 
 
 Hafn-Eltaf, or, The Center of Beauty ♦ 72 deg. 32mm. Long, 34 deg. 40 min, 
 Lat. At this day almoft ruin'd. 
 
 Hawas, 75 deg. 40 min. Long. 3 3 deg. 15 mm. Lat. 
 
 Heaye, 74 deg. 35 mm. Long. 31 deg. 50 min. Lat. 
 
 Helaverde, 91 deg. 30 min. Long. 35 deg. 15. min. Lat. Built by Abdalla be- 
 fore mention'd. 
 
 Herat, 85 deg. 30 min. Long. 3 6 deg. 56 min. Lat. A City in the Province of 
 Carajfan , where Sultan Heujfein-Mfrz.a founded feveral Colledges for Youth. 
 Hefn-Medi, 78 deg. 45 min. Long. 32 deg. 5 min. Lat. 
 Hejfne Ebneamade , 70 deg. 45 min. Long. 26 deg. 20 min. Lat. 
 Barman > 85 deg. 1 5 min. Long. 32 deg. 30 min. Lat. A fmall City, in a bad Air, 
 
 h 
 
 Jem-non, 78 deg. 15 min. Long. 36 deg. 40 min. Lat. The Trade of it is in 
 Copper Manufactures. 
 
 Jend-Babour, 75 deg. 5 min. Long. 31 deg. 15 min. Lat. A very ftrong place, 
 famous for the Tomb of MelekzFakonb-Sha, King of Schiras. 
 
 Irfon , 80 deg. 3 5 min. Long. 36 deg. 50 min. Lat. 
 
 Ijpaha»i or Hijpahan ; 86 deg. 40 min. Long. 3a deg. 40 min. Lat. 
 
 K. 
 
 Kaar, 78 deg.40 min. Long. 42 deg. 32 min. Lat. 
 Kajhan, 76 deg. 15 mm. Long. 34 deg. 40 min. Lat 
 
 Kafre-Chirin , 71 deg. 50 min. Long. 34deg.4omin. Lat. Built by Nbujhirevofa 
 Aadel , furnamed the Juft and upon the afts and deeds of this King is all the Mora- 
 lity of the Perfians founded. 
 
 Kaien , 83 deg. 20 min. Long. 36 deg. 32 min. Lat. Said to breed the choiceft 
 Wits of all Perfia. 
 
 Kalaar, 76 deg. 25 min. Long. 37 deg. 25 min. Lat. One of the chiefeft Cities 
 in G uilan. 
 
 , Kalin , 87 deg. 5 rain. Long. 3 5 deg. 3 5 min.Lat In an excellent Soil for Cattel and 
 Fruit. 
 
 Karhoub, 74 deg. 45 min. Long. 32 deg. 15 min. Lat. 
 Kajbin , 75 deg. 40 min. Long. 36 deg. 1 5 min. Lat. 
 
138 The Persian Travels Book III. 
 
 Kmfre-le-lebous , or Kengavat , 76 deg. 20 min. Long. 3 3 deg. 3 5 min. Lat. 
 Kazeron, 88 deg. 30 min. Long. 28 deg. 30111111. Lat. The Country about 
 produces Oranges , Limons, and Cyprefs-trees. 
 Kerab, 86 deg. 40 min. Long. 34. deg. 15 rain. Lat 
 jtermanor: Kirman, 81 deg. 1.5 min. Long. 29 deg. 50 min. Lat. 
 Kervak,, 87 deg. 32 min. Long. 34 deg. 1 5 min. Lat. 
 Kirmonjha , 63 deg. 45 min. Long. 34 deg. 37 min. Lat. 
 Kom , 75 deg. 40 min. Long. 3 5 deg. 35 min. Lat. 
 
 Konh de Mavend , 74 deg. 1 5 min. Long. 36 deg. 15 min. Lat. the fmallefr now> 
 which was once the largeft City in Perfia. 
 
 Keiicht , 83 deg. 40 min. Long. 33 deg. 20 min. Lat. In a foyl excellent for 
 Corn and good Fruits. 
 
 Koy , 60 deg. 40 min. Long. 3 7 deg. 40 min. Lat. 
 
 Kevachir , or Fcrdecbir , 80 deg. 30 min. Long. 28 deg. 1 5 min. Lat. 
 
 L. 
 
 t,abi)on y 74 deg. 25 min. Long. 37 deg. 15 min. Lat. The Trade of" the Towrt 
 confifts in Stuffs , half Silk, half Cotton, call'd Tefsile . 
 Lonjfekj, fee TcuJJea. 
 
 M. 
 
 Maameter , or Barfrouche , 77 deg. 3 5. min. Long. 36 deg. 50 min. Lat. 
 Mebrouyon , oxBebbebon, 75 deg. 15 min. Long. 39 deg. 35 min. Lat. 
 Meraqne , 71 deg. 20 min. Long. 37 deg. 40 min. Lat. It ftands in one of the 
 Gardens of Perfia. 
 
 Merend , 63 deg. 15. min. Long. 37 deg. 37 mm. Lat. 
 
 Mervajae, 87 deg. 32 min. Long. 34 deg. 15 min. Lat. in a fertile Country for 
 Corn and Fruit. 
 
 Merverond, 88 deg. 40 min. Long. 34 deg. 30 min. Lat. in a fertile Country. 
 Mefcbed , look Toufs. 
 
 Monkon, or Derbent^ 20 Leagues from the Cajpian Sea, 63 deg. 15 min. Long, 
 37 deg. 40 min. Lat. 
 
 Mounan, 84 deg. 15 min. Long. 37 deg. 15 min. Lat. A City wellpeopPd, 
 wherein there are feveral Mofque'es , and fair Piazza's. 
 
 N. 
 
 Nacksfoan , or Nackcvan , 6 1 deg. 3 2 min. Long. 3 9 deg. 40 min. Lat. 
 
 Motel 9 77 deg. 40 min. Long. 3 6 deg. 7 min. Lat. in a fertile Country for Paftu* 
 
 rage. 
 
 Nehavcnd, or Naboiiand, 73 deg. 45 min. Long. 34 deg. 20 min. Lat. The 
 Country people aver this City built before the Loufon , or the Flood. 
 Neber-Tcri] , 75 deg. 00 min. Long. 32 deg. 40 min. Lat. 
 Ncjfab , 84 deg. 45 min. Long. 38 deg. 40 min. Lat. 
 Nicbabar , 80 deg. 55 min. Long. 36 deg. 20 min. Lat. 
 
 O. 
 
 Onjon, 61 deg. 35 min. Long. 3 2 deg. 24 min. Lat. To this City finely leated, 
 belongs a fair Caftle. 
 
 1 R. 
 
 Rachmikdon , 87 deg. 34 min. Long. 3 5 deg. 1 5 min. Lat. 
 
 Rem-bormoHs , 74 deg. 45 min. Long. 31 deg. 45 min. Lat. In this City Selmon^ 
 ?ia!y\ Fofter Father was born. 
 
 Rey , 76 deg. 20 min. Long. 3 5 deg. 3 5 min Lat. In the beft Soil of all Perfia , for 
 Wheat , Fruit , and Pafturage. 
 
 Roudbar , 75 deg. 37 min. Long. 3 7 deg. 21 min. Lat. in the Province of Gmlan. 
 
 Royon , 71 deg. 3 6 min. Long. 3 6 deg. 1 5 min. Lat. if? the- Province of Moz.andran. 
 
Chap.XIII. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 s. 
 
 Saatfour , 86 deg. 20 min. Long. 3 5 deg. 1 5; min. Lat. 
 
 Saron, 76 deg. 20 min. Long. 36 deg. 15 min. Lat. In the Province of Grilan. 
 Sary, 78 deg. 15 min. Long. 36 deg. 40 mm. Lat. Seated among the Copper- 
 Mines. 
 
 Sebzevoar , 8 1 deg. 5 min, Long. 3 6 deg. 1 5 min. Lat. Near this City the people 
 gather great quantities of Manna. 
 
 Semiron , 7 1 deg. 3 o min. Long. 3 4 deg. 40 min. Lat. A pleafant City ftor'd with 
 good Water and Fruits. 
 
 Serijr-el-lafi , 63 deg. 1 5 min. Long. 45 deg. 50 min. Lat. 
 
 Serkefs, or Serakas , 85 deg. 35 min. Long. 36 deg. 15 min. Lat. A pleafant 
 City for Scituation , and plenty of Waters. 
 
 Scrmcghon, 87 deg. 37mm. Long. 37 deg. 32 min. Lat. In a fertile Soil, yet 
 not very plentiful. 
 
 Servefton , 78 deg. 1 5 min. Long. 29 deg. 1 5 min. Lat. In a Soil abounding with 
 Gardens. 
 
 Servon, 79 deg. 15 min. Long. 32 deg. 15 min. Lat. In a Soil abounding with 
 Wine and Dates. 
 
 Sur)on , 74 deg. 40 min. Long. 30 deg. 20 min. Lat. Where the belt Per fan Car- 
 pets are made , and Shaads , or Girdles of Goats Hair curioufly wrought. 
 Sohreverede , 73 deg. 3 6 min. Long. 3 6 deg. 5 min. Lat. 
 Sfoufs, 73 deg. 45 min. Long. 3 2 deg. 15 min. Lat. * 
 
 Sdtanic , 76 deg. 1 5 min. Long. 39 deg. 40 min. Lat. Where the Mornings and 
 Evenings are very cold ; all the reft of the day very hot. 
 
 T. 
 
 Taberon, 80 deg. 34 min. Long. 35 deg. 20 min. Lat. 
 
 Talikon, 88 deg. 15 min. Long. 36 deg. 32 min. Lat. In a Country plentiful in 
 Corn , Fruit , and good Water. 
 
 Tauris , otherwile call'd Sfernerdehi , 63 deg. 15 min. Long. 39 deg. 10 min* 
 Lat.. 
 
 Tebep , 80 deg. 40 min. Long. 3 8 deg. 1 5 min. Lat. 
 
 Tefiis , 60 deg. 1 5 min. Long. 43 deg. 1 5 min. Lat. 
 
 Toukori) 82 deg. 45 min. Long. 3 8 deg. 40 min. Lat. 
 
 ToHp., or Mejhed, 82 deg. 30 min. Long. 3 8 deg. 40 min. Lat. 
 
 Toutfea, otherwise calPd Lonjfek^y 85 deg. 40 min. Long. 3 7 deg 50 min. Lat, 
 
 Y. 
 
 Tefdy 79 deg. 15 min. Long. 32 deg. 15 min. Lat. 
 
 Tevirif lee Az.ad.kari, 
 
 Z 
 
 Zemma , 89 deg. 14 min. Long. 38 deg. 3 <; min. Lat. In a Country abounding in 
 all forts of Cattel. 
 
 Zenjorty 73 deg. 36 min. Long. 3 6 deg. 5 min. Lat. Famous for its antiquity, 
 and formerly the Perfian Univerfity. 
 
 Zen ah, 79 deg. 30mm. Long. 3 2 deg. 30 min. Lat. Thebiggeft City in the 
 Province of Belad-Cifion , abounding in Wine and Shell-fruit. 
 
 Zour, 70 deg. 20 min. Long. 35 deg. 32 min. Lat. A City in the fame Pro- 
 vince. 
 
 Zouz.en> 85 deg. 15 mm. Long. 35 deg. 39 min. Lat. In the Province of M* : 
 
 x^andran. 
 
 S 2 Zourendy 
 
140 
 
 The Persian Travels Book III. 
 
 Zourend, 73 deg. 4omin. Long. 31 deg. 15 min. Lat. In the Province of Ker- 
 mm , where there is great ftore of curious Potters ware where alio grows the Root 
 Hanna , with the juice whereof the Perfians dye their Nails , and the Breads and 
 Tails of their Horfes. 
 
 The End of the Third <B 0 0 /(, 
 
 THE 
 
Chap, I. of Monfieur Tavernier 
 
 THE FOURTH !B 0 0 
 
 OF THE 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 O F 
 
 Monsieur TAVERNIER: 
 
 BEING, A 
 
 DESCRIPTION 
 
 PERSIA. 
 
 CHAP. L 
 
 Of the Extent of P E R S I A , and its diVifion into (proyinces. 
 
 PS RSI A y according to the prefent State of the Empire , to the North 
 is bounded by the Gajfian Sea •, Southward, by the Ocean •, Eaftward it 
 joyns to the Territories of the Great Mogul ; Weftward , to the 
 Dominions of the Grand Signor ; the two Empires being parted by 
 the Rivers Tigris and Euphrates. 
 But that you may the better underftand the full extent of the 
 Dominions of the Perfian King , you are to know , That this great 
 Monarch , befides that Traft of Ground which is properly call'd Perfia , poffefles 
 a vaft part of the ancient Ajfyria and the great Armenia, , the ancient Kingdoms of 
 the Parthians and Medes , the Kingdom of Lar , the Kingdom of Ormus , and all 
 Eaftward of Perfia beyond Candahar, almoft as far as the Kingdom of Scindk 
 
 But becaufe thofe Europeans that have Travel'd before me , either were not To 
 curious , or had not perhaps the opportunity to learn the true number of the Pro- 
 vinces that compofe the whole Continent of Perfia , I have undertak'n , though the 
 Perfians themfelves are ignorant enough , to give the beft account I can , finding 
 it neceflary for the better fatisfattion of the Reader , to take fome notice of the 
 Names of Places according to the ancient Geography. 
 
 The firft is the Great Armenia , which our Maps without any ground or realbn 
 at all call Turcomannia; in regard they might have more properly call'd it Ermenick^ 
 in general , fince the Inhabitants are the greatetl part tA rmenians. That part 
 whereof which is fituated between the two Rivers of Araxes and Cyrus , at this day 
 call'd Arts and Km , by the Natives is call'd Iran , or Cara-bag , being one of the 
 moft beautiful, and richeft pieces of Land in all Perfia • the principal Cities of which 
 are Erivan, Nacklivan, Zulpba, and Van, 
 
 The 
 
142 
 
 The Per s i a n Travels Book IV. 
 
 * berbent in 
 the Perfian 
 Tongue fignifies 
 a Strait Gate, 
 and Demir- 
 Capi in the 
 TurkiiTi, a 
 Gate of Iron ; 
 near to which 
 place were the 
 ancient Ca- 
 fpian Gates, 
 or Cafpix 
 Vylx of the 
 /Indents. 
 
 The fecond is T>iarbeck_, formerly Mesopotamia , between Euphrates and Tigris ; 
 the chief Cities whereof are Bir, Car-Emir or Diarbequir, Ourfa, Mouflul, Gez.ire, 
 Merdin , &c. 
 
 The third is Curdiftan, formerly AJfyria, extending all along the Eaft-fide of the 
 River Tigris , from the Lake Van to the Frontiers of Bagdat ; the principal Cities 
 are Niniveh, Sherifoul, Amadie, Sneirne, Betlis, and Salmaftre. 
 
 The fourth is fJierak^Arabi, otherwile the Country of Babylon or Chaldea ; the 
 principal Cities whereof are Felougia upon Euphrates , Bagdat upon Tigris, Merfhed- 
 Ali, Gourno, and Balfara • and in the Country of Bourom,Sharaban, Ero»nabat> &c. 
 
 The fifth is Hierak^Agemi , or the ancient Parthia ; the principal Cities whereof 
 are Htjpahan, Toujliercan, Hamadan, Cajhan, Kan, and Cajbm • and perhaps Tefd , if 
 it be not rather in Kerman or Sigiftan. 
 
 The fixth contains Shir-van , all along the Cajpian Sea , where ftand the Cities of 
 *Dcrbcnt or Demir-Capi,Baku,and Shamaki ; and the Province of Edz.erbaijan ; wherein 
 ftand the Cities of Tauris, Ardevil, and Sultany. Which two Provinces comprehend 
 the ancient Media within a very little, extending to the very Shoar of theC^^wSea. 
 
 The feventh contains Kylan and Maz.andran, lying likewife upon the Cajpan Sea, 
 formerly Hyrcania ; wherein are the Cities and Towns of Firuz.cuh, Sukar-abad, and 
 Mtomkielle at the entry of the Mountains i Gim, Talara-pefcl, and Sartt, in the Plain *, 
 Ferh-abad, Gorman, and Gfcref, toward the Sea. 
 
 The eighth is Eftarabad , formerly Margiana , which extends to the River Ruth- 
 khane'-kurkan , which the Ancients call'd Oxus; the principal Cities whereof are 
 Eftarabad , Amul, Damkam. 
 
 The ninth contains the Province of the Vjbeck^Tartors , comprehending all the 
 ancient Sogdiana and Battriana j the chief Cities whereof are Ba\_, Samarcand, and 
 Boccara, &c 
 
 The tenth is Corajfan , formerly Aria , with fome part of BaBriana ; the chief 
 Cities whereof are Eri, Mejhed, Nifabur, Than, &c. 
 
 The eleventh Sable ft an , formerly Peloponnefut ; the principal Cities whereof are 
 Beksabat , Ajbe', Buft, Sarents-, the Territory and City of Candahar being alfo com- 
 prehended within the extent of this Province, together with Dnki and Alunkan, upon 
 the Frontiers of the Great Mogul's Dominions. 
 
 The twelfth is Sigiftan , formerly Drangiana ; the principal Cities whereof are 
 Siftan , Shalackj, and Kets. 
 
 The thirteenth comprehends all the Territories of the ancient Arachofia, bord'ring 
 upon the Kingdom of Scindi , not having any Cities that we know of. 
 
 T he fourteenth is the Province of Makran , lying all along upon the Sea of Mogo- 
 sfan , formerly Gedrofta ; the chief Cities whereof are Makran, Firhk^, Chalak_, and 
 the Port of Guadel toward Guz,erat. 
 
 The fifteenth Kerman, formerly Caramania, extending as far as the Gulf of Ormus • 
 the chief Cities whereof are Kerman, Bermazir, the Port of Kuheftekj, and the Cape 
 of Jafques. 
 
 The fixteenth is Farfiftan , or that part of Perfta fo properly call'd the chief 
 Cities whereof are Schiras, Caferon, Benarou, Firm-abat, Darab-guier, &c. To which 
 you may add the little Province of Larafton, with the City of Lar, juft againft Ormus. 
 But this Province formerly extended no farther than Benarou, two days journey from 
 Lar, before Sha-tAbas conquer'd the Kingdom of Lar, and then the Kingdom of 
 Omm. Now they are both united ; though they have both feveral Governours, as they 
 had diftinft Princes before. The Ports in this Province upon the Perftan Gulf are 
 Bander -Abaffi and Bander-Congo. 
 
 There are two other little Ports in the Perfian Gulf, about thirty hours fail from 
 the Mouth of Euphrates , but not capable of receiving any other than fmall Barks; 
 which are very much to be admir'd ; for in regard the Inhabitants are ignorant of 
 the ufe of Iron , it is ftrange to fee their Boats made fo handfom and ftrong withal 
 the Planks being only ty'd together with a Cord, which is made of a kind of Hemp 
 tak'n from the out-fide of the Coco-nut. 
 
 The laft is the Province of Curfiftan , formerly Suftana , which Euphrates and Tigris 
 joyning together feparate horn Chaldea ; the principal Cities whereof are Sufter, an- 
 ciently Suja, the Capital City of the Ercipire of King Ahafuerm, Ahavpas,Scabor,Ram- 
 hormns, &c. 
 
 The 
 
Chap. I. of Monfieur Tavernier, 145 
 
 The temper of the Air in Perfia varies according to the variety of fituation. The 
 Country of Edzerbaijan is very cold, but very healthy. The Air of Maz.andran 
 is very unwholfom^ for being a low fenny Country, and full of Infects, when the 
 Waters dry up in the Summer , the Infefts alfo dye and infeft the Air. Sometimes 
 thole bad Waters over-flow the Country^ in fo much that the Inhabitants receive 
 a tinfture in their Complexions from the colour of the Earth. The Province of 
 Cjuilan is included in the Province of Maz,andran\ and the Air is fo unwho!fom,that 
 the People cry of him that is fent to command there •, Has he robb y d, fiofn , or muf- 
 ther'd y that the King fends him to Guilan ? 
 
 At IJpahan, which is almoft in the middle of Perfia , there are fix months of hot, 
 and fix months of cold weather. The Snow falls three or four times in a feafon , and 
 fometimes fo very thick , that there is hardly any travelling upon the Road. About 
 a League from the City, toward the Mountain, there ftands a Stone about two or 
 three Foot high, which when the Snow hap'ns to cover, prognofticates a plentiful 
 Year and the fir ft Country-man that carries the news thereof to the King, receives a 
 hundred T mans. As for Rain , there is very little falls there , unlets it be in April, 
 and then it fometimes rains very hard. 
 
 In the Southern Provinces , the heats are very exceffive , and kill abundance of 
 our Europeans , efpecially thofe that are giv'n to drink. 
 
 All Perfia is water'd with little Rivers-, but there is not one navigable River' 
 through the whole extent of it, unlefs it be Arat , or the Araxes of the Indians, 
 which carries lbme few fiat-bottom'd Boats. The other Rivers , inftead of growing 
 bigger , the farther they keep. their courfe from the Springs , grow fhallower for want 
 of Water, by reafon of the infinite number of Kreifes or Channels, which they cut 
 out of the Rivers to water the Lands , which would not bring forth fo much as only 
 Grafs without the help of thofe Cuts •, unlefs it be in the Province of Maz.andran} 
 which from September to March feems a kind of Terreftrial Paradife , through the 
 pleafing variety of Herbs and Fruitss However, Perfia in general being thus water'd, 
 is a raoft fruitful Country : though it be true , that many of their Springs and Chan- 
 nels are loft and brok'n. And Mirz.a-Ibrahim Governour of the Province of Edz.er- 
 baijan told me one day, that in the very Territory of Tanris, there were above two 
 hundred Springs utterly loft , either by accident or negligence; 
 
 As for their Gardens , they water them with Well-water , by the help of a Wheel 
 and an Ox •, but the running Water is much better , as not being fo cold , and more 
 fatning to the Earth. And therefore the Fruits that grow in the Mountains which 
 are only water'd by the Rain or by the Dews , are much better tailed , and keep 
 longer. 
 
 Perfia is a mountainous Country, but for the moft part the Mountains are very 
 dry and barren. As for Woods, there are none in all the Country. Travellers are 
 alfo forc'dtogo a great way out of their Road to find a Spring-, and fometimes they 
 fhall ride ten or twelve Leagues , before they meet with any Water but what they 
 carry in their Bottels. There are lbme Mountains out of which they dig Salt, as 
 Stones out of a Quarrey. There are alfo Plains where the Sand is nothing but Salt, 
 though it be not fo favoury as our Northern Salt. 
 
 Of late feveral Copper-Mines have been found out, of which the Natives make all 
 forts of Kitchen-HoufholdftufF. Their Lead comes from Kerman ; their Iron and 
 Steel from Corafan and Kafbin , though not fo good as that of Spain. Their Steel is 
 very fine, with a l'mooth grain , and grows very hard in the Water , but it is as brittle 
 as Glafs. Neither will this fort of Steel agree with the Fire : fo that if the Fire 
 have not more than a double heat when the Steel is forg'd , it will look juft like a 
 piece of burnt Charcoal. The Steel which we call Damas-Steel comes from the 
 Indies, and the Perfians call it Gauherdar. 
 
 There are alio fome Mines of Gold and Silver in Perfia, wherein it appears that 
 they have anciently wrought. Sha-Abas alfo try'd again , but found his expence to 
 be more than his profit : whence it is become a Proverb in Perfia , Nokrt Kerven 
 dehhrarge nohhaffel ; The Silver-Mine of Kerven, where theyfpend ten to get nine, 
 which is the reafon that all the Gold and Silver of Perfia comes out of Forein Countries. 
 
 C H A ft 
 
144 
 
 The Persian Travels Book IV. 
 
 CHAP. It 
 
 Of the Flowers and Fruits of Pcrfia , of Turquoifes and Tearls. 
 
 TH E Flowers of Perfia are nothing comparable to our European Flowers^ 
 neither for variety nor beauty. For having pafs'd the Tigris in the 
 Road to Perjia, you meet with nothing but Roles and Lillies, and fome 
 other Fruits peculiar to the Country. 
 As for Rofes, they have great ftore , which they diftil , as they do Orange-flowers, 
 and tranfport the Waters into all the Eaftern parts of Afia. 
 
 I never left the Court of Perfia , but fome of the Lords , efpecially four of the 
 white Eunuchs , beg'd of me to bring them fome Flowers out of France ; for they 
 have every one a Garden before their Chamber door : and happy is he that can 
 prefent the King with a Pofie of Flowers in a Cryftal Flower-Pot. 
 
 There are in Perfia Apples, Pears, Oranges, Granates, Prunes, Cherries, Apricots, 
 Quinces, Chefnuts, Medlers, and other forts of Fruit , which is not generally lb well- 
 *tafted as ours. 
 
 Their Apricots indeed , efpecially the lelfer fort, are better than ours. When you 
 op'n this Apricot, the Stone cleaves in two, and then the Kernel, which is only a fmall 
 Skin, as white as Snow, is more pleafing to the taft than if it had been pre- 
 ferv'd. 
 
 As for their Melons, they are moft excellent, and very plentiful, neither is it fo 
 dangerous to eat them to excefs , as ours. There have been fome that have eat'n fix 
 and thirty pound in a day, and have never been the worfe. There is a prodigious 
 quantity of them fold in Ifpaban ; where they are brought to Market, from midnight 
 'till four a Clock in the afternoon. Thofc Melons which are firft in feafon , and are 
 calPd Guermea, are infipid, and taft of nothing but Water. However the Phyficians 
 advife you to eat them , faying that they plump up the Flefli , and renew the habit 
 of the Body. The next to the Gnermez, , are better than they, and they increafe 
 in goodnefs 'till they come to be quite out of feafon j the laft of which they keep 
 all the Winter long. 
 
 Though they have fuch vaft plenty, yet they never leave but one Melon upon a 
 ftalk , and when it is as big as a Nut, the Gard'ner, or his Wife, or his Children, lye 
 down upon the ground and lick off the Down , which they fay keeps the Melon 
 from being fweet, and rip'ning kindly. 
 
 The Perfians have alio a particular fort of Qmnce-Pepin , but not fo good as ours, 
 which they fry unpar'd , calling great ftore of Salt in the Pan to excite thirft , and 
 then prefent them to their Friends at their Collations. They have alfo Almonds and 
 Figs , but few Small-nuts or Wall-nuts. 
 
 Oyl they have none, but in the Provinces of Maz^andran and Guilan , which furnifh 
 all the reft of Perfia ; but the Olives are rotten , black , gravelly, and not worth any 
 thing , compar'd with c Provence-OX\sts,. 
 
 Armenia^ Mengrelia, Georgia, and Media abound in Vineyards. They bury their 
 Vines all the Winter , and take them up again in the Spring by reafon of the cold. 
 In the hotter Countries they drefs their Vines as we do, without any under-propping 
 them. There are three forts of Wines in Perfia. That of Tefd is very delicate ^ 
 that of IJpaban but ordinary : that of Tefd is tranfported to Lar, where there lives 
 a great number of Jew!) who care not to live but where they may have good Wine, 
 and that at a cheap rate. It is alfo carry'd to Ormtu , where it is fold half in half 
 cheaper than the Wine of Schiras. As for the Wine of Schirat, it is made of one 
 only Grape , fweet in taft , but which heats the Mouth extremely. This fort of 
 Grape is call'd Kichmijhe' ; it is a white Grape, without any ftone, as vulgarly believ'd j 
 but however it has a ftone , though it be hardly to be perceiv'd •, which neverthelefs 
 will appear in new Wine , when it frets like a little Ligament. They fay that the 
 Wine of Ifpaban is cold upon the Stomach, but that it fumes into the Head. For 
 its coldnefs upon the Stomach I can fay little , but I know it will warm the Head, if 
 a man takes too much of it. In Perfia they never keep their Wine in Tuns , but in 
 
 great 
 
Chap. III. of Monfieur Tavernier. 145 
 
 — — — ■ — — — — . — 1 * 
 
 great earthen Veffels bak'd in an Oven , either glaz'd , or elfe fmear'd over with the 
 fat of a Sheeps rump, ftop'd up with wood'n Covers, cover'd over again with a great 
 piece of red Calicut, that lyes over all the lids of the Pots. 
 
 The King and his Lords have other forts of Cellars for magnificence, where they 
 treat fuch as they invite. Thefe are four fquare Rooms not above three or four fteps 
 deep, with a Well in the middle, the floor being fpread with Turkie Carpets. 
 Now at the four corners of the Well ftand four great Bottles containing twenty 
 Pints a piece, the one of White, the other of Claret. Between the great Bottles 
 ftands a row of lefler Bottles fill'd , a Bottle of White, and a Bottle of Red. In 
 the Cellar- Wall are feveral niches one above another, and in every nich a Bottle * 
 ftill vary'd Gules and Argent \ a very pleafant fight to good Companions in a Room, 
 which is as light as day. 0 
 
 As for Herbs and Roots they have very good in Perfia ^ but above all, moft 
 excellent Roman Lettuce. But there is no fort of Pull'e , nor can they find a way to 
 make Peafe grow among them. The Carmelites catry'd Alparagus , Artichoaks , and 
 Succory^ which were never feen there before, but now begin to thrive very 
 well. 
 
 As for Turquoifes and Pearls I (hall fpeak thereof in my difcourfe of Jewels , to- 
 ward the end of my Indian Travels^ 
 
 CHAP* 1 1 L 
 
 Of the Beafts of Service } of the Fiji? and Fowl of Perfia. 
 
 THe Beafts for fervice in Perfia , areHorfes, Mules, AiTes, and Camels. 
 The Horfesof Per/ia are but of an ordinary ftature , lefs than ours, 
 very narrow before , but very fwift and light. They carry their heads 
 very ill in running , by reafon of the cuftom to which the Perfians ufe 
 them. For they have got a trick of managing their Horfes , yet never getting upon 
 their backs ^ they teach them to Amble by tying their feet with two Cords of an 
 equal length , to the middle whereof are faften'd two other Cords that are faften'd 
 to the Saddle, which two Cords keep their feet fo, that they cannot ftirbut at fuch 
 adiftance-, and fo they deal with their Mules upon which the old men generally 
 covet to ride. The Horfes of Perfia are very docible , and eafily brought up. They 
 give them nothing elie from one Evening to another but a Sack full of chopt Straw * 
 with a meafure of Barley which they mingle together with the Straw , to the end 
 they may eat both together. When the Barley is newly ear'd , they give it them 
 for fourteen or twenty days together to purge their bodies , as we for the fame end 
 put out Horfes to Grafs in the Spring. The Perfian Horfes hold out very well 'till 
 eighteen or twenty years of age but they never cut their Stone-Horfes in that Coun- 
 try. In the Winter , they never take oif their Shooes , but only Froft-nail therm 
 Their Furniture is very light and handfomly made. And this is further obferv'd , 
 that whereas we keep Goats in our Stables and Inns , the Perfians keep Hogs. 
 
 There are two fort of AfTes in Perfia. Thofe that are bred in the Country only 
 ferve to carry burthens *, but there are a fort of Arabian AfTes that are fwift and very 
 handfom , excelling in price the common fort of Horfes. The Merchants of Jjpahan 
 keep thefe AfTes in their Country Houfes , taking it for a great piece of Grandeur 
 to Ride every Morning to their Shops. 
 
 Some parts of Perfia are perplex'd alfo with wild Beafts , as Lyons , Bears i and 
 Leopards,but there are but very few ; nor have we heard that ever they did any great 
 mifchief. Porcupines they have alio and I my Telf faw brought before the 
 King two men , the one of which was Shot through the Thigh , and through 
 the Leg with a Porcupine's Quill. The fecond was kill'd, the Porcupine having 
 darted his Quill a little above his right Pap through his Breft. As for their Fifh , 
 there are an abundance of Carps, Trouts, and Pikes in the River Arai; but in 
 all the other Rivers of Perfia there is but one fort of Fifh , which is a kind of 
 
 T Barbill, 
 
The Persian Travels Book IV. 
 
 Barbel. In the fubterranean Channel which they bring to water their fields there 
 is another fort of Fifh very plentiful of bones , and as little as can well be eaten. 
 
 Where the white Mulberies grow by the River fide , fo foon as they begin to 
 bear fruit , 'tis very good paftime to fee the Crabs, as big as the Palm of a man's hand, 
 come out of the River after Sun-fet , and climb the trees to eat the fruit, and then by 
 break of day return into the River again. They are delicate food, far beyond Crey- 
 fifh , but a hot provocative Diet, as the Phyficians well obferve. 
 
 During the Froft they bring from the Cajpian Sea great (lore of Salmon or Salmon- 
 Trouts , four or five Foot long. The Province of Media is well ftor'd with Sturgeon 
 from the mouth of the River Araxes. In the lame Sea there is a certain Fifh like 
 a Carp, which they fait and dry like our Herrings. From the Perfian Gulf comes 
 nothing but Salt-filh , which is tranfported ovefrall the Kingdom. 
 
 Their Fowls are much the lame that we have in Europe , only I do not remember 
 that I ever faw any Quails in the Country. As for their Pigeons , they fly wild 
 about the Country but only fome which they keep tame in the City, wherewithal 
 to decoy the reft : which is a fport the Perfians ufe in hot weather as well as in cold. 
 Now in regard the Chriftians are not permitted to keep thefe Pigeons , lbme of the 
 vulgar fort will turn Mahometans to have that liberty. There are above three thoufand 
 Pigeon-houles inljpahan. For every man may build a Pigeon-houfe upon his own Farm, 
 which yet is very rarely done all the other Pigeon-houfes belong to the King , who 
 draws a greater Revenue from the Dung than from the Pigeons : which Dung, as 
 they prepare it , ferves to fmoak their Melons. 
 
 Poultrey is very plentiful in Perfia; and the Armenians brought out of Europe 
 the way how to fat Capons •, the firft fo fatted they prefented to the King , who lik'd 
 them fo well, that he order'd that thericheft of the Armenians (hould be commanded 
 to provide him fuch a number every year. There are no Turkeys in all Afia ; but 
 the Armenians trafficking to Venice carry'd fome from thence , which when the King 
 had tailed , he lik'd fo well , that he order'd the Armenians to breed him up fuch 
 a number, and to ftock the Kingdom with them. But the Armenians, feeing the King 
 would impofe a new Tribute of Turkeys as well as Capons , grew negligent , and 
 fuffer'd the Chickens to dye as foon as they were hatch'd. Thereupon the Perfians 
 lufpedting the fraud , commanded the Armenians to keep the dead Turkeys, that they 
 might be Judges how they came by their deaths : And it was my woncler to fee fo 
 many young Turkeys hanging againft the Walls of fome Houfes in Zulpha , that 
 occafion'd this Story to be told me. 
 
 All forts of Water-fowl are as plentiful in Perfia , as with us. 
 
 Upon the Frontiers of Media and Armenia , at a certain feafon of the year are to 
 be feen a great number of Bird?, much like to our Owzils. Much about the lame time 
 the Corn begins to appear , but then is the ground cover'd with fuch infinite fwarms 
 of Locufts , that the Armenians are fore'd to betake themfelves to their Proceffions, 
 and to water the ground with a Water which they fetch a great way off, whereinto 
 the Bodies of feveral martyr'd Chriftians were thrown. Three days thefe Pro- 
 cefiions and waterings of the ground continue , and after that , whether it be that the 
 fore-mention'd Birds do eat the Locufts , or only drive them away, in two or three 
 days the Country is clear of them. 
 
 As for Birds of prey, the Country wants none, Falcons, Sparrow-haws, Lane- 
 rets, &c. of which the King of Perfia is very well provided , having above eight 
 hundred belonging to his Game. Some of thefe Birds are taught to fly at the wild 
 Boar, or wild Afs , or wild Goat •, others at Cranes, Herons , wild Geefe, and Par- 
 tridge. The chiefeft of which Birds are brought from the Southern Mountains, 
 extending from Schiras to the Perfian Gulf. 
 
 The King takes great delight to hunt the Boar and Harf, and if it come to pais 
 that the Game out-run the Dogs, then they let fly one of their Hawks, who pre- 
 fently feizes the head , and while fhe is continually pecking and difturbing the 
 Beaft , the Dogs are prefently at his heels. The Hawks are taught to ftop like a 
 Horfe at full fpeed : elfe they would never quit their prey, which they prefently 
 do, as foon as ever the Falconer fhews them their reward. Now their way of 
 ord'ring or making the Hawk is this, They take the skin of a Hart, head, body, 
 and legs, and fluff it with Straw, to the end it may be like the Beaft which they 
 intend to reprefent in the nature of a Quarry. When they have fet it in the place 
 
 where 
 
Chap. IV. of Monfieur Tavernier 
 
 where they ufually train up the Hawk , they lay meat upon the head , or in the 
 holes of the eyes , to the end the Bird may be lure to feize thofe parts at his down- 
 come. Being accuftom'd to feed in this manner for fome days together, they fix the 
 Bead upon a Plank with four Wheels , and caufe it to be drawn with long Cords by 
 certain men , that mend their pace ev'ry day, 'till at length it is drawn by a Horie 
 at full fpeed , whereby the Bird is accuftom'd by degrees not to forfake her prey. 
 After the fame manner they counterfeit all other forts of Quarrys to enter their 
 Hawks , as well wild Boars, wild AfTes , as Hares and Foxes. Some there are that 
 will order a Crow with the fame induftry as you would make a Hawk. They have 
 have alio a certain Beaft which they call Once, which has a fpotted skin like a Tiger* 
 but which is neverthelefs very gentle and tame } this a Horfe-man will carry behind 
 him , and when he fees a wild Goat, h'e fets down the Once , which is fo nimble , that 
 in three leaps he will be upon the back of the wild Goat j though the wild Goat be 
 a very fwift Creature. The Once immediately ftrangles him with his (harp teeth. 
 But if by accident the wild Goat get from him , the Once will ftand ftill in the fame 
 place abam'd and troubl'd , fo that an Infant may take him and kill him , without 
 the Ieaft refiftance made in his own defence. 
 
 The Kings of Perfia take great delight in Hunting , and in that fport it is that 
 they love to (hew themfelves magnificent : Infomucfwhat Sha-Sefi defirons to treat all 
 the ArabafTadors then at his Court,which at that time were the T* artarian y Muscovite, 
 and /W*'<*>i,carry'd them along with him into the field, and having tak'n a great number 
 of Harts, Fallow-dear, Hinds, and wild Boars, he caus'd them all to be made ready to 
 be eat'n the fame day : And while he was feafting , an Architect had order to raife 
 a Pyramid of the heads of thofe Beafts in the middle of JJpahan, of which there are 
 fome remains to this day. When the Architect had rais'd it to a confiderable height, 
 he came very pleafantly to the King , and told him he wanted nothing but one 
 head of fome great Beaft to finifh the Work. The King , whether in his Wine, 
 or to fhew the AmbafTadors how abfolute he was over his Subjects , turning briskly 
 toward the Architect*, Thou fay'ftwell, laid he , nor do I know where to meet with 
 a Head more proper than thy own. Thereupon the miferable Architect was fore'd 
 to fubmit his own Head , the King's Command being prefently put in execution. 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Of the manner of 'Building in Perfia. 
 
 IN regard there is little Wood or Stone in Perfia, all the Cities, except fome 
 Houfes, are generally built of Earth but of an earthen , or rather a kind of 
 Potter's Clay, fo well wrought, that you may cut it like Turf, being wrought 
 to a juft confiftency. The Walls are made with lays of Earth , according td 
 the proportion intended , and between every lay of Earth , three Foot high, two 
 or three rows of Bricks bak'd in the Sun. Thefe Bricks are made in a fquare Mold 
 three fingers thick , and i'even or eight inches broad : and for fear they ffiould cleave 
 with drying in the Sun , they lay over them pounded Straw to keep them from 
 chopping in the heat. They never lay the fecond Lay 'till the firft be dry, nor is 
 the fecond Lay to be fo broad as the lowermoft. Thofe Buildings which are made 
 of Brick bak'd in the Sun are very handfonv, and after the Wall is rais'd, the Mafon 
 planters it over with a Morter made of Potter's Clay mingled with Straw } fo that 
 the defefts of the Building being cover'd , the Wall appears very firm and clofe. 
 Then the Work -man plaifters the Morter over again with a Lime mixt with Mafcovy- 
 Green , which he pounds with a certain Gum , to render the Lime more glutinous : 
 and then rubbing the Wall over with a courfe Brufti , it becomes as it were damask'd 
 and filver'd, and looks like Marble. The poor are contented with only bare Walls, 
 or fome courfe daubing that cofts little. The middle of theHoufe confifts of a large 
 Portico, twenty or thirty Foot fquare •, and in the middle of the Portico a Fountain 
 full of Water. It is all open upon one fide •, and from the Tortico to the Pond or 
 
 T 2 Fountain 
 
148 The Persian Travels Book IV. 
 
 Fountain all cover'd with Carpets. At every corner of the Portico is a Room to fit 
 and take the frefti Air and behind another large Room , the floor whereof is fpread 
 with Carpets , Mattrefies , and Cufhions , according to the quality of the Matter of 
 the Houie. Upon the two fides of the Portico are two other Chambers , and doors 
 to go from one Chamber to another : and thus are the Houfes of the great Lords 
 built, but only they are more fpacious. For their Houfes confift of four great Parlours, 
 that look toward the our corners of the World, and every Parlour has two Chambers 
 upon each fide , which make eight Chambers , that furround a great Hall in the 
 middle. The King's Palace is alfo built after the fame fafhion : and generally the 
 Perfian Houfes are very low, it being a rare thing to fee one three Stories high. Yet 
 all their Chambers and Rooms are arch'd, wherein the Perfian exceeds us. For with- 
 out all . that trouble and time that we fpend , they will prefently raife an Arch fo 
 broad and high as eafily demonftrates the skill of the Work-man. The tops of their 
 Houfes are flat and terrafs'd ^ being plafter'd with Earth mixt with Straw chopt 
 very fmall , and well temper'd which they bind together with a layer of Lime beat'n 
 for feven days together , which makes it as hard as Marble , and if they want Lime, 
 they pave the Terrafs with lquare Tiles bak'd in an Oven , fo that the Rain can do 
 no harm. But they are very careful to (hovel off the Snow, for fear it crack the 
 Terrafs with lying. Without the Houfes fhow nothing , but within they are curioufly 
 painted with Birds and Flowers,wherein the Perfians are no bad Artifts.They take great 
 delight to have feveral little Chambers, with feveral Doors, and Lattice-windows, the 
 quarrels whereof are of Glafs of various colours. This fort of glazing ferves generally, 
 and indeed more properly ,for the Apartments where the Women may come.For they 
 might have Cryftal-windows if they pleas 'd , but they glaze the void fpaces in this 
 manner, that their Women may not be feen after they have fram'd the op'n place that 
 gives light , like a Flower-Pot with feveral Flowers in it , which the Glafs of feveral 
 colours imitates to the life •, whereby it is impoflible that the Windows fhould be 
 peer'd through befides, that it is pleafant to the Eye. The Doors of their Houfes 
 are of Tchinar-VJ ood, which is very noble, and their Wainfcoting is as neat. The 
 Perfians that love orientation, always difplay their rich Carpets, Mattrefies, Cufhions, 
 Coverlets, and all the moft coftly Furniture they have, in the fore part of their 
 dwellings : For the Haram, or the Women's Quarter is but meanly adorn'd, in regard 
 they are never vifited by any men but their Husbands. In fome of their Rooms they 
 have very narrow Chimnies j for the Perfians fet all their Wood upright which they 
 burn, becaufe of theSmoak-, befides, they make but fmall Fires, in regard they have 
 fo great a fcarcity of Wood. When they would go to fleep, they lye down upon a 
 Plank cover'd with a Carpet, and wrap themfelves in a quilted Blanket. In the Sum- 
 mer they fleep in the open Air , upon their Terrafles *, and in regard the Women lye 
 there too , there is an order obtain'd , that the Moukahs that fmg upon the Mofqnees 
 {hall not prefume to go up in the morning , becaufe it might be their hap to fee the 
 Women as they lay it being one of the higheft pieces of infamy imaginable for a 
 Woman to be difcover'd with her Face op'n. 
 
 There are fome Houfes that belong to great Lords, that have a fquare place before 
 their Doors, where they that come to vifit them may put their Horfes, to the end the 
 Street fliould not bepefter'd. If you look upon the Front of their Houfes, there is 
 little ornament to be feen, unlefs it be upon fome which have been lately built. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 A Defcription of Ifpahan , the chief City of the fQngdom and Do- 
 minio?is of the t\ing of Pcrfia. 
 
 ISpahan,Sphahan>oic$pkaon, as the Perfians pronounce it,which fome Travellers have 
 too unwarily affirm'd to be a fine City , lyes in the Province of Hierac , which 
 compofes fome part of the ancient Kingdom of the Parthians.lt is the Capital City 
 of all Perfia , and a very large place , where the King ufually keeps his Court. 
 The Records of the Terfiaus declare that formerly it was two contiguous Towns, one 
 
 part 
 
Chap. V. of Monfieur Tavern ier 
 
 part whereof belong'd to Haider , and the other to Neamed-OUhi , two parts of 
 Ifpahan ftill retaining thofe two names, which has occafion'd great quarrels and de- 
 bates among the people, while they have both been eager to prefer their own quarter. 
 Nor indeed could ijpahan be accompted other than a Village , before Sha-Abat had 
 conquered the Kingdoms of Lar and Ormus. But then obierving fo fair a Situa- 
 tion , where he might as well be near the Provinces which he had newly conquer'd , 
 as for the defign which he had to extend his Dominions to the Eaft and Weft, as he 
 had enlarg'd them to the South , he quitted Cafbin and Suit any to refide at Ijpahan , 
 as in the center of his Empire. 
 
 This City is feated in a vaft plain, which extends it felf three ways fifteen or 
 twenty Leagues. Upon the South about two Leagues from Ifpahan riles a very high 
 Mountain , on the top whereof toward the Weft are to be feen the remains of a 
 veryftrong Fortrefs, where Darius kept himfelf, w r hen ^Alexander gave Battle to 
 him in that Plain. In the fide of the Rock is a Grotto ., either natural or artificial, 
 or both, out of which iflues a natural Spring of excellent Water, where a Dervis 
 ufually inhabits. 
 
 The Circuit of Ifpahan , taking the Suburbs all in , is not much lefs than that of 
 Paris , but the number of Inhabitants is ten times greater at Paris than at Ifpahan. 
 Nor is it a wonder that a City fhould be fo large and vet lb ill peopl'd , where every 
 Family has its particular Houfe , and every Houfe its particular Garden. What 
 ever way you come to it you may dilcover firft the Towers of the Mcfe/ne'es 7 and then 
 the Trees that environ the Houfes , fo that Ifpahan leems rather a Forreft than a City. 
 The Plain being fertile is well inhabited, but there are no Villages in it, only three or 
 four Houfes in a place together. 
 
 The Walls of Ifpahan are of Earth , to which do belong fome pittiful Towers 
 without Battlements or Platforms , Baftions or Redoubts , or any other Fortifica- 
 tion. The Moats alfo are as bad , neither broad nor deep, but always dry. In 
 fome places alfo the people have beaten down great gaps in the Wall , to get the 
 neareft way into the City} yet they reckon ten Gates, which are but of Earth 
 however, and of no defence ; the chief of which are Dcr-Vafalfehab , not far 
 from the King's Palace , Der-Tohshi , Der-Marl^, Der-Vafal- Lcmbon , \Der-Nafan- 
 Abad , Der-Sha, and Der-Dekt. The Gates are made of Planks rudely joyn'd 
 together, and coverM with plates of Iron four fingers broad , and as thick as a 
 Crown , faften'd with flat-headed Nails. The Keys are never carry'd to the Go- 
 vernour , but left with a filly Porter that op'ns and (huts the Gates as he pleafes 
 himfelf*, for indeed there is no neceflity of fhutting the Gates when there are lb many 
 other ways into the City. 
 
 The City of Ifpahan is ill laid oj^f, for the Streets are narrow and unequal, and 
 for the moft part dark , becaufe of the Arches that go from one Houfe to another, 
 lb that a man is fore'd lometimes to feel his way for two hundred paces. Moreover 
 the Streets are many times annoy'd with Loads of Ordure and the Carcaffes of dead 
 Beafts , which caufe a moft filthy ftench, and would be very infectious certainly, 
 but for the wholefomnefs of the Air, In the moft part of the Streets are Wells , 
 which are ftop'd up in Summer, and open'd in the Winter to carry away the Rain 
 and the Snow into the Arch'd Channels which run under Ground through the middle 
 of the Street. There are alfo before every Door certain Troughs to receive the 
 filth and ordure of every Family , which the Country-men come and carry away to 
 Dung their Grounds. Every morning the Country-man comes with his Afs to lade 
 Dung-, and it is obfervable that he is more diligent to carry away the Dung of the 
 Armenians , Franks , and Jew that drink Wine , than of the Perfians that drink 
 none. And this is the profit of the Servants of the Houfe that fell an Afies Load 
 of Dung for five , and lometimes for ten or twelve Kasbeflie. 
 
 The Streets of Ifpahan , as of all the reft of the Cities of Perfia are not pav'd , 
 which makes them very incommodious both Summer and Winter. For in the Sum- 
 mer the duft puts out your Eyes , unlefs it be in the Streets where the great Mer- 
 chants live j and about the Meydan , where there are people hir'd to water the 
 Streets Morning , Noon , and Night. Thofe people go about the Streets alfo with 
 a Eoracho full of Water , and a Glafs , with Ice in a Bag , to give them drink 
 that defire it : Nor do they take any money , being paid out of the Legacies left by 
 perfons deceafed for that purpofe. In the Winter this, duft turn* to mire half 
 
 the' 
 
The Persian Travels Book IV, 
 
 the leg deep •, though it be very true that there are very few people to be feen 
 then in the Street •, for in regard of the vaulted Channels that run through every 
 Street, fhould the ibak'd Earth chance to fail under the Horfe , it might endanger a 
 Limb. Befides , the Perfians are lb fuperftitious , that they will hardly receive 
 a man within their doors with a lpot of Dirt upon his Cloathes , for fear of being 
 defiPd by him. 
 
 You fhall alfo meet with little Holes againft the Walls of the Houfes in the op'n 
 Street , where the Perfians are not afham'd to fquat and Pifs in the face of all the 
 World. If there be any running Water in the Street, they take a little in their 
 Hands and wafh their Member with it or if there be no Water, they rub it againft 
 a Stone or the Wall , which they take for a great piece of gentility and mo- 
 defty. 
 
 That which farther contributes to the naftinefs of the Streets of Ijpahan , is , 
 that the Butchers throw the Blood and Excrements of the Beafts which they kill 
 into the Streets. If a Horfe or a Mule, a Camel or an Afs dye , they prefently 
 throw him into the Street. True it is, that there are people who come prefently to 
 buy it of the Owner •, who-make Harijfe, which they fell to the poor Work-men. 
 This Hartjfe is thus prepar'd :, they boyl the flefh of the dead Beaft with Corn, and 
 after it is well boyl'd they mam it together, 'till it becomes like a Pottage. They alio 
 make Harifle of good Mutton both which forts they fell in the Market-place , or 
 great Mtydan of the City. 
 
 Though the City of Jjpahan be dirty, yet there is a way for perfons of ability to 
 avoid it for they never ftir but on Horfe-back , with two or three Lackeys , call'd 
 Coatres , that run before to make room. For the Men are all upon the falfe Gallop 
 in the Streets , without any fear of hurting the Children : by reafon that the Chil- 
 dren are not fuffer'd to play in the Streets like ours , but as foon as ever they come 
 from School, they fit down by their Parents, to be inftru&ed by them in their Pro- 
 feffion. 
 
 Thefe Valets or Foot-men make a Trade of Running \ of which the King and 
 the Lords have leveral in their fervice it being a piece of grandeur to keep a 
 great many. They ferve from Father to Son , undergoing an Apprentifhip in 
 Running. From fix to feven years of age, they only fet themfelves to walk flowly. The 
 next year they run a League at a time upon a handfom trot , the next year after they 
 run two or three Leagues, and fo proportionably for the reft. At eighteen years of age 
 they are allow'd a Scrip of Flowr,with a flat piece of Copper to bake their Bread upon, 
 and a Bottle of Water j all which they carry about them when they run. For thefe 
 people when they are lent Poll never take the Caravan-Road , but the fhorteft cuts 
 through the Deferts, and muft therefore accuftom themfelves to carry their Provifion. 
 The King and the Lords have no Chatres, but what are Mafters ^ which degree they are 
 not to arrive at without fome Ceremony and performing a Race , like our Jemmy 
 and the Butcher of Croyden. 
 
 If he be a Lord that owns the Chater who defires to be a Mailer , he fends for all 
 his Friends, lets up a Scaffold in the Meydan, provides a Collation, and fends 
 for the Curtifans to divert the Company. Now there is not one of thefe Guefts 
 that does not bring fomething to give this Chater after the Race is run , either a 
 Bonnet or a Girdle, or fome other thing, part of which the Chater gives to his 
 fellows. Then the Chater appears with his Legs greas'd , his Thighs bare, only a 
 flight fhort pair of loofe Breeches , and a Girdle with three little Bells hanging upon 
 his Belly. Thus accouter'd he ftarts from Mi-Cap, and between Sun-rifing and 
 Sun-fetting he runs backward and forward to a Stone a League and a half from the 
 City toward the Mountains*, running in that time fix and thirty of our common 
 Leagues, or a hundred and eight Miles. While he runs, there is Kourouk^'m the 
 Meydan, and upon all the Road where he runs , and three or four Horfe-men that 
 continually ride to and fro, to fee that there be no deceit in the Chater 's Race} who 
 when he approaches near the City, ride before to give notice of his coming. Every 
 time he ftarts and returns , the Drums and Trumpets found ; at the end of the Race 
 there ftand feveral perfons with Arrows in their Hands , and ev'ry time he comes to 
 the Stone they give him an Arrow , which he carries back every courfe to Mi-Capri. 
 Every time he returns , the Curtifans rub him and make much of him. All the time 
 he runs , he eats nothing , but drinks Sherbet now and then. If he acquit himfelf 
 
Chap. V. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 well, which appears by the number of Arrows brought back, he is admitted a Mafter 
 by the approbation or the King's Foot-men-, who are fuperior to all the reft. The 
 K.%ns or Governours of Provinces run their own Cbarers with the lame Ceremonies, 
 and in the fame manner. 
 
 The Fortreis of Ifpahan is nothing at all confiderable. It joyns to the Wall upon 
 the South fide of the City, and is twice as long as broad , but without any defence in 
 the world , unlefs it be of fome pitiful Towers made of Earth. Here it is that the 
 King keeps all the Rarities which he has purchas'd , or that has been prefented to 
 him. For as to his main Treafure , I believe it confifts chiefly in Gold-Plate. Within 
 the Fortrefs there is a large Field , low'd every year with Rice and Corn hard by 
 which ftands the Houfe of the Capnchin-Friavs. 
 
 Ifpahan in general , unlefs it be the Mtydan and lbme few arch'd Streets where the 
 Merchants live , is more like a great Village than a City , the Houles (landing at a 
 diftance one from the other ,< with every one a Garden , but ill look'd after, not 
 having any thing in it perchance but only one pitiful Tree : true it is that they begin 
 to build better of late days, but it is without the City. As for the Women, 'tis 
 not a pin matter whether they live out of the City or within , in regard they never 
 ftir out of doors, and as feldom go a-foot. 
 
 The Meydan or great Tiazza of Ifpahan was the contrivance of the great Sha- 
 Abas , who had never done it , if a great Prince of the ancient Race of the Kings 
 of Terfta had not refus'd him the old Mcydan , with feveral Priviledges , and the 
 Houfe that flood by it. Thereupon he defign'd this new Tiazza, to draw off the 
 Merchants, and to fpoil the old Market-place, by their departure from that quarter of 
 the City which is lefs inhabited at this day. It is not far from this old Meydan , that 
 the Anflin-Friars on the one fide , and the Carmelites on the other have their Habi- 
 tations. There are alio two fides of that Meydan entire , under the Vortices , where 
 fit only fuch people as fell Herbs, Fruit, and Victuals •, the other two fides are almoft 
 fain to decay, but when it w r as all {landing , it was as handfom as the new one : and 
 it is to be wonder'd , that the Prince, who built it, did not choofe the place where 
 Sha-Abas has built his , as being near the Water, and confequently far more conve- 
 nient. 
 
 The great Mcydan then is a place about feven hundred Paces long , and between 
 two and three hundred broad. It has Buildings upon all the four fides •, it lyes 
 in length directly North and South*, the Fronts are every one Portico'd , and Ter- 
 rafs'd at the top and on the City-fide are little Chambers nine or ten Foot high, 
 which fall very much to decay, being only built of Brick bak'd in the Sun. They 
 are inhabited , the greateft part of them , by the moft infamous Curtifans of the 
 City. At fome Paces diftance from the Portico's, is a Channel which is pav'd with 
 ftone , and runs round about the Tiazza ; Sha-Abas caus'd feveral Trees to be 
 planted by the fide of it, but both the Channel and the Trees being altogether 
 neglected, are fain to decay •, befides, that the fmell of the Water in the Summer 
 time is very noyfom. 
 
 In the midft of the Piazza (lands a kind of a May-Pole, or Mad of a Ship, where 
 the people exercife (hooting at Birds. When the King comes to (hoot , they fet 
 a Cup of Gold upon the top of the Ma ft , which he is to ftrike down with an Arrow. 
 To which purpofe he muft ride full (peed, nor is he permitted to (hoot 'till after 
 he has pad the May-Pole , turning himfelf upon the crupper of his Horie s a remain 
 of the ancient cuftom of the Partlnans, that kill'd their Enemies flying. 
 
 The Cup belongs to him thatftrikes it down-, and I have feen S^-St/j,Grandfather 
 of the prelent King , in five Courfes ftrike down three Cups. 
 
 From this Mad or May-Pole down to the great Mofcjuec , they fell nothing but 
 Wood and Charcoal : from the fame Pole to the Sun-Dial upon the North-fide,are none 
 but fuch as fell old Iron-Tools, old Harnefs for Horfes, old Coverlets , and other old 
 Brokery-ware , as in our Long- Lane. 
 
 From the Pole to another Mofqnec, to the South, juft againft the Sun-Dial , is the 
 place for all the Poulterers. The reft of the Piazza toward the Palace, is always kept 
 clean, without any Shops, becaufe the King comes often abroad in the Evening to fee 
 Lions , Bears , Bulls , Rams , Cocks, and all other fort of Creatures fight which are 
 brought thither. 
 
 The people of Ifpahan , as in many other Cities 3 are divided into two parts , the 
 
 one 
 
152 The Persian Travels Book IV. 
 
 one call'd Hedari, the other Nametlai ; and upon all the Combats of Beafts before- 
 mention'd, there are always very confiderable Wagers laid between thefe two Tribes. 
 The King , who is a neuter , gives to the Mafter of the Beaft that gets the upper 
 hand fometimes five, fometimes ten, lbmetimes twenty Tomans, according to the value 
 of the Wager laid ^ and he that wins the Wager , prefents the Mafter of the 
 the Beaft likewife They have alio a Sport at breaking of Eggs, by knocking the ends 
 one againft another , fome of which Eggs come to three or four Crowns. The 
 Hens that lay them are bred in a Country which they call Saufevare, about a hun- 
 dred leagues from IJpahan , toward the Province of Karafon j the Cocks of which 
 Country are bigger and ftronger than other Cocks , and coft fome of them a hundred 
 Crowns. There are a fort of Tumblers alio, that after Dinner fet up their Stages in 
 the Meydan, and toward the Evening, they that play the Maid-Marians come and. en- 
 compais a fquare place with a com ie piece of Calicut j and then through another 
 very fine Cloth , the Wenches fhew a thoufand tumbling Tricks and antick P«ftures„ 
 When they have done , they come and ask the Spectators for Money, who give them 
 every one what they think fit. Every Friday, which is as it were Market-day, the 
 Country-folks bring to Town what they have made in the Villages, as Doors and 
 Windows fitted to be hung up, Window-frames , Locks , and other things of that 
 nature. Upon that clay alfo they fell Mules, Horfes, Camels, anil AfTes, which brings 
 a great confluence of people from all parts. 
 
 Upon the Weft fide, where ftands the Gate of the Palace, and^'s Gate, be- 
 tween the Canal and the Portico's are rang'd fome leventy Pieces of Cannon upon 
 their Carriages. Thefe Guns, together with the Sun-Dial, were brought from Ormns 
 by the Great Sha-Ahaf, of which the £ngltjh ought to have had their Ihare^ for with- 
 out their affiftance he never could have tak'n the Town. 
 
 From the corner of that Front, which touches upon the Eaftern Front of the 
 Mojquee , in the middle , are all Sadlers Shops *, and from that Mofyuee to another 
 corner that touches upon the Weftern Front , live the Book-fellers , Book-binders, 
 and Trunk-makers. In the middle of the Southern Front ftands a Portal , with a 
 Tower upon each fide , which leads to a Mofyuee , the Gate whereof is cover'd all 
 over with Plates of Silver , and is certainly the neateft Portal and faireft Entrance 
 into any Mofquee of Perfia. 
 
 At the other end of the fame Front , where it joyns to that upon the Weft, there 
 is a great Portal that leads to a falfe Gate of the King's Palace ; near to which , as 
 loon a9 you are enter'd , you meet with the Apartment of the Great Treafurer, 
 who is a white Eunuch, and having the Keys of the Chamber where the Money lyes, 
 takes care to pay what-ever the King orders him. Through that falfe Gate all the 
 King's Provifions are carry'd into the Palace. This way alfo enter they that are 
 entertain'd for the Manufaciury of the King's Tiflues, Silks, Sattins, Coverlets , and 
 the like. In the fame Enclofure alfo the Franks , who are under the Ring's Wages, 
 and live at Zulpha, come every day to work*, as alfo all the moft particular and 
 eminent Artifts that the King hires. 
 
 The Weftern Front , which makes one of the two lengths of the Meydan, is thus 
 appointed :, from the Southern angle that touches the Trunk-maker's quarter , live 
 all your Pedlers that fell all the i'mall Commodities of Nerimberg and Venice. 
 
 As for the King's Palace , I cannot make any handfom defcription of it, in regard 
 there is nothing of Beauty either in the Building or in the Gardens. I think I 
 have been as far in the Houfe as a man could go, every time I was fent for by His 
 Majefty •, but excepting only four Rooms which they call Divans , I faw nothing 
 but pitiful low Galleries , and lb narrow that hardly two men could pafs a-breft in 
 'em. In one of thofe Galleries I had audience of the King , in the Garment of 
 Honour which he had beftow'd upon me. But in regard 1 have lpok'n of two of 
 them in another place , and that the other two are much alike both Building and 
 Furniture, I fhall fay no more of them here. 
 
 From the King's Palace Gate to Haly y s Gate live the Goldfmiths, Lapidaries, and 
 Gravers of Stones for Seals : Halfs Gate is a plain Gate , naked of Work ; of 
 which I have already lpok'n. 
 
 Between Half% Gate, and the other angle of the fame Weftern Front, ftands 
 a great Gate which leads into a Baz.ar , where all the Armenians that live at Zulfa 
 keep their Shops, and fell all forts of Cloth that comes out of JEnrepe, and other the 
 
 choiceft 
 
Chap.HL of Monfieur Tavernier. 15^ 
 
 choked Wares of Terfia. At the end of that Bazar ftahds a fair Inn two Stories 
 high , which the Mother of Sha-Abas the fecond caus'd to be built. In the middle 
 ftands a great Fountain with four great Gates, which lead into four other Inns. 
 Here by the way let me give a Traveller and a Trader in Terfia this advice that if 
 his Goods be not very heavy , he never hire a low Chamber , as being three times 
 dearer than thofe above : For the Chambers which the Sun lies upon moft in the 
 Summer, are the Chambers which coft leaft. Not but all the Chambers in the Irtn 
 are Tax':! at the fame rate by the King but the Hove for his profit will find fome pre- 
 tence or other to raife his price ; pretending thofe Chambers be hir'd already which 
 you defire j efpecially if they be corner Chambers , which are the largeft artd mbft 
 commodious. And indeed without this collufion Chambers would be very cheap, 
 The beft convenience of thofe Inns is,that a man is more fecure in One of them then in a 
 private Houfe: For there if it happ'n that a piece of Gobds be ftol'n , orthatybui? 
 Chapman prove ihfolvent for Goods bought,the Inn-keeper is to make all good j being 
 by the Law to receive fo many blows a day 'till he pays the fum demanded. The 
 Merchant alio gives two in the hundred for every thing that he fells * and when the 
 Market is done they prefently go totheHoft, who lets down in his Book the qua- 
 lity of his Goods, and the names both of buyer and feller. If he knows not the 
 buyer, he is bound to go and enquire after him, and if he be not folvent, the 
 Merchant takes his Goods again. Sometimes the Merchant tofave the tw*j mthe 
 hundred * combines with the Purchaler to carry away fome of his Goods without the 
 knowledge of the Hoft > which is done by greafing his Deputies fift i who will pre- 
 fently (hut his Eyes. But then if the Purchafer proves infolvent , the Merchant 
 dares not complain , becaufe his Goods arc not Regifter'd in the King's Book , whom 
 he has defrauded of his Cuftom. 
 
 Nolefs fecure are the Bazars or Market-places, where the Merchants ftiut up 
 their Shops very flightly , the Bazars being ftrongly guarded both within arid with- 
 out alt night long. As for the petty Stalls in the Meydan , every one puts up his 
 Ware in a Box Padlock'd up, and then lay them down at one end of the place one 
 by another. As for the courlefortof Ware, as Tents, Cords * Rbpes, and fuch 
 other things they only heap them under a large Coverlet faften'd at the four 
 corners by four fticks , for the Meydan alfo is as ftrongly guarded as the Bazar. 
 
 Between Halys Gate and that which leads to the Bazar where the Armenians keep 
 their Shops , live all thofe that deal in Ruffia Leather , making Borachio's to tye under 
 the Hori'es Bellies , little Buckets > and Furniture for Horfe-men , as alfo Bowyers, 
 Fletchers, and Forbifhers. From the laft Gate to the end of the Gallery, live all 
 the Druggifts and Apothecaries. 
 
 At the Angle upon the two fronts upon the Eaft and North , there is a Gate that 
 leads to the Great Bazar; next to that live only your Sails-men that fell whole Ha- 
 bits for men , as Shirts , Sheets , Hofe , and the like. There be alfo thofe that fell 
 Leather Shooes for men and women ; which Shooes are always worn by perlbris of 
 quality. 
 
 Out of this Bazar you go into another full of men that work ill Copper , fuch as 
 make Pots, Plates, and other Utenfils for the Kitchin. Here alfo. live thofe that 
 make Files, and the blades of Sythes. The reft of the Bazar is poifefs'd by Dyers 
 of Calicut •, and at the end of the Bazar is a fair Inn , where all the Merchants live 
 that fell Musk , Ruffta Leather , and Furrs ; 
 
 I hare in another place obferv'd that the King has a great Revenue out of the Ba- 
 zars and Inns which he has caus'd to be built , which is particularly laid out in pro- 
 vifion for his Table. For the Law of Mahomet forbidding Princes to impofe Taxes 
 or Cuftoms upon the people , they do not believe that the money which arifes from' 
 thence is fit to be employ 'd or laid out for the necelfaries of life , believing that their 
 food fo purchas'd would do them no good. By virtue of this prohibition of Mahomet 
 it is,that the Merchants take all the liberty they can to deceive the King of his Cuftoms, 
 believing that they cannot offerid the Prificc,while they tranfgrefs not the Law. Befides,- 
 that if they (hould pay all the King's Duties, the price of Goods would rife fo high,fo as 
 to fpoil the whole Courfe of Trade and Commerce. Neither would the Revenue of 
 the Caravan/era's , Bazars , and Gardens fuffice for the Kings Kitchin , were not 
 the feveral Kans or Governours of Provinces oblig'd to fupply that expence 
 every Week in their turns * whereby thofe cxpences coft the King little or nothing. 
 .<! A ; V Upon 
 
The Persian Travels Book IV 
 
 Upon the North-Front of the Meydan , are made under the Portico's leparations 
 for Chambers, that look upon the Piazza, where people go to fifioak Tobacco and 
 drink Coffee. The Seats of thofe Rooms are plac'd as in fo many Amphitheaters, 
 and in the midft of every one ftands a large Venel full of running Water, wherewith 
 their Pipes be cleans'd when they are over-fowl. All thcPerfians that haveany fpare time, 
 fail not every day to refort to thofe places between feven and eight in the Morning, 
 where the Owner of the Room prefently brings them every one their Pipe and 
 their Difh of Coffee; But the Great Sha-Abas, who was a man of a great under- 
 (landing, finding thofe places were only fo many Meeting-houfes , where men aflem- 
 bl'd to talk and prattle of State-affairs j a thing which noway pleas'd him} to break 
 the neck of thofe petty Cabals , he ordered that a Moallab fhould be lure to be 
 betimes at every place before the reft of the people came thither, and that he mould 
 entertain thofe Tobacco- whiffers, and Coffee*quaners, fometimes with a Point of the 
 Law, fometimes With Hiftory, fometimes with Poetry. This cuftom is ftill obferv'd : fo 
 that after this entertainment has lafted two or three hours , the Monilah rifing up, 
 crys to every one in the Coffee-Room , Come my Mafters , in good time , let's all now 
 retire every man to his bufinefi. Straight every one retires upon the Monllatfs words, 
 who is liberally entertain'd all the while by the Society. 
 
 In the midft of the North-Front ftands a great Portal , with a large Dial over it, 
 which Sha-j4bas brought from Ormm when he took it from the Portugals. But the Dial 
 is of noaife, nor is ever like to be. Round the Tower of that Portal runs an op'n 
 Gallery} with a kind of a Cieling. over head fupported with Pillars from whence 
 every Evening about Sun-fet, and at Midnight , a noife of Drums and Trumpets is 
 to be heard through the whole City. Though the truth is , the Mufick would never 
 charm a curious Ear. Out of fome parts of the Gallery are contriv'd little Dormi- 
 tories , where the chiefeft of the Court lye. In aH the Cities where the Kans refide 
 is the cuftom of making this ratling noife of Drums and Trumpets obferv'd , and 
 not elfewhere. » 
 
 On each fide of the Portal, under the Horologe, are five or fix Banks of Jeweller*, 
 who there put to fale certain parcels of Pearls , Emralds, Granats, and Turquoifes, 
 which are not of any great value : every parcel being fet by it fclf in a Dim , and 
 the whole Stall cover'd with a (ilk Net , to preferve the Stones from being ftoln. 
 
 Juft againft the fame Portal , going toward the South-Front , you meet with two 
 little Goals five or fix Foot high, and fev'n or eight diftant one from the other. Here 
 the men play at Pall-mall on horfe-back , the Horfe-man being to ftrike the Ball run- 
 ning at full fpeed , between the two Goals. 
 
 Through that Portal you enter into an Endofure much like the place where the 
 Fair of St. Germans is kept , and there it is that the Merchants of Gold and Silver- 
 Tiffues and other rich Stuffs, with all your fineft forts of Calicuts and Linnens , keep 
 their Shops. 
 
 The Court fide of the Meydan, which is upon the Eaft , and which anfwers to the 
 grand Front where the King's Houfe ftands , is thus appointed. In the middle ftands 
 a Dnomo cover'd with a kind of bak'd Earth , and as well the Dwmo as the Portal, 
 which is very high , are all varniuYd over. You afcend nine or ten fteps , the Port 
 of Haly facing it on the other fide of the Piazza. From the end of the Porticos 
 that touch the North fide of the Mofqnee , live the Shop-keepers that fell fowing- 
 Silk, and fmall Manufactures of Silk , as Ribands, Laces, Garters, and other things 
 of the fame nature. From the Mefqtiee to the other end, are all Turners , that make 
 Cradles for Children, and Spinning- Wheels. There are alfb fome Cotton-beaters, 
 that make quilted Coverlets. Without the Portico's are none but Smiths , that make 
 Scyths, Hammers, Pincers, Nails, and fuch like things } with fome few Cutlers. 
 
 This is all that can be faid of Jjpahan , and that great Piazza , which fome perhttp* 
 have fet out in better colours. But I have reprefented all things as they are , as 
 being one that have feen them oftner, and beheld them a longer time than ever any 
 Franks that Travel'd into Afia. 
 
 01 liori) r.: :t23W ytiv: 
 CHAP. 
 
Chap. VI. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 i 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Of Zulpha , a little City « feparated from Ifpahan by the <!{iyer 
 Senderou. 
 
 ZVlpba, which others call Julpba and Giolphd , is diftant from Ijpahan to- 
 ward the South half an hours walk, the River Scnderoit running almoft at 
 an equal diftance between the two Cities. The way that leads from one 
 City to another is a Walk fome fifteen hundred Paces long , and fevcnty 
 broad, almoft equally divided by the River. It begins from a Pavilion or Tabernacle 
 forty Foot fquare , which joyns to the hinder part of the King's Houle , with a 
 double Story, to which fe vera 1 Windows give light, clos'd with wooden Lattices 
 very artificially wrought. None but the King and his Houfhold pals that way into 
 the W 7 alk. For they that go from Ijpahan to Zufpha , find the way into the Walk 
 through a Gate which is dole adjoyning to the Tabernacle. This Walk is call'd 
 the Street of Tcharbag , or the Street of Four (gardens. 
 
 A Channel runs all along the Walk from the Tabernacle, where a little Rivulet 
 falls into it , and fills it as far as the great Bridge. The two fides of the Channel 
 which are pav'd with Stone, and are two or three Foot broad, make one way, which 
 PafTengers may, and many times do take *, for the ufual way both for Horfe and Foot, 
 lyes upon each fide of the Walk , behind the Trees, which are planted in a ftreight 
 line to the very Walls of the King's Gardens -> which clofe the Alley on each fide. 
 It is a kind of aCaufcyof Free.ftone, lbmewhat rais'd, and four or five Foot broad. 
 There is but one row of Trees on each fide , ftraight and high , call'd Tchinards y 
 with one tuft at the top. The fpace between the Channel and the Trees is not 
 pav'd , but lyes common , and is fometimes fow'd. About two hundred Paces from 
 the Tabernacle or Banqueting-houfe, the River falls into a great Pool, about thirty 
 or thirty-five Foot in diameter-, and in that place, as alio in others fomewhat beyond 
 it, where there are alfo other Pools, the Walk is crofs'd by a Caufey pav'd and rais'd, 
 ten or twelve Foot broad, as the reft are. Upon the left hand of the firft Pool ftands 
 another Tabernacle or Banqueting-houfe, much alike in ftrufture and bignels to the 
 former-, in which place, in a low arch'd Room with a Fountain of Water in the 
 middle , you may go and drink Coffee. From that Houfe to the Bridge the Walk 
 defcends , and the Water makes fome falls. 
 
 All the Gardens on each fide of the Walk , both on this fide and beyond the Bridge, 
 belong to the King. But you muft not imagin that thefe Gardens , or that of 
 Hezardgerib, which is the faireft of all Perfia , are fo curioufiy fet out , nor lb well 
 kept as ours in Europe. For they have no fuch lovely Borders , nor fuch clofe Walks 
 of Honeyfuckles and Jafmin as are to be feen in the Gardens of Europe. They 
 differ the Grals to grow in many places contented only with a good many great 
 Fruit-trees, tufted a-top, and planted in a line , which is all the grace of the Garderis 
 of Per fa. 
 
 In each fide of the Walls between which the Walk runs , at a true diftance of 
 fpace, are gates neatly contriv'd, and over each a little Room. Almoft in the middle 
 of the Walk between the great Banqueting-houfe and the Bridge, upon the left 
 hand , ftands a Houfe of the Dervt's, to whom the King has giv'n one of his Gardens 
 to build upon. There they keep the Rclicks of -Holy, or lbme other Prophet for 
 you fhall fee them {landing under a certain Arch , before which the Per pans make 
 a moft profound Reverence. Thefe Dervts come every Afternoon about three or 
 four a Clock into the Bazars of Ijpahan, every two, an old one and a young one, 
 choofing his quarter. They go from Shop to Shop, inftrutting the People upon fome 
 Point or other of the Law : the young Dervfs anfwering the did ones at certain 
 times. Their Habit is only two Sheep-skins or Goat-skins, the one hanging before, 
 the other behind , with a great leathern Girdle, four or five fingers broad , garnifh'd 
 with feveral great Plates of Latten. They throw another Sheep-skin crofs their 
 Shoulders, which they tye before,under their Chins. Upon their Heads they only wear 
 a little Larab-skin in form of a Bonnet , letting the feet hang down to their Necks, 
 
 V 2 over 
 
, 5 6 
 
 The Persian Travels Book IV. 
 
 over their Cheeks- They carry a great Club in their hands , as the Painters reprefent 
 John the Baptifi in the Wildernefs. Between their girdles and their wafts they ftuff 
 a company of pittiful Flowers , or elie a fort of Herbs , which after Exhortation , 
 both the young and the old Dervfs beftow upon the Merchants and Tradefmen , 
 from whom at the fame time they receive Alms. Toward the Evening they go home 
 again-, and I forgot to tell you, that before the door of the Houfe Hands always a 
 large Veffel of Water with feveral little Cups , and Ice in the Summer, where all 
 paflengers may drink upon free-coft. 
 
 The River of Senderou , which as well as the reft of the Rivers of Perfia , except 
 the aArtu , is not able to carry a Boat, is a very great relief to Jfpahan. Behind 
 the Mountains of the South beyond Zdfa is another River , call'd Abkyren , which 
 about five or fix Leagues above Jfpahan runs within a League and a half of Senderon. 
 Sba-Abas the firft attempted to have joyn'd the two Rivers together , to which pur- 
 pofe he went about to have remov'd certain Rocks that ftood in his way , but not 
 being able to compafs his defign, his Succeflbrs laid afide all the thoughts of attem- 
 pting any more. Could it have been done , the Champaign of Jfpahan would have 
 been one of moft fertile and delicious places in the World-, whereas now the River 
 is of no ufe, running through Defert Countries and Plains of Salt. As for the River 
 of Sendereu , in Winter it over-flows , but in Summer it has very little Water, being 
 oftner foarded than crots'd over upon Bridges. About four Leagues above Jfpahan they 
 are conftrain'd to force it into their Lands to water their Fields and Grounds, which 
 elfe would produce nothing at all. . Wells they have a great many in feveral places \ 
 butbefides, that .they are not able to furnifh that great quantity of Water which is 
 necefiary^ the River Water is much better to fatten the Land. Now you muftob- 
 ferve that their Channels never return to the River , being wafted upon the Ground ^ 
 fo that the River of Jfpahan being very much wafted before it comes to the City , by 
 reafon that it is (till leflen'd by fo many Channels , about ten or twelve Leagues from 
 thence , it ends as it were quite fpent in a few Merfties. This fcarcity of Water , 
 which is ib general over all Perfia , is the reafon that they are extraordinary Husbands 
 of it, and buy it very dear. Therefore is the fuperintendant of the Water, which 
 brings the King in a very confiderable Revenue , one of the moft contended for em- 
 ployments in the whole Court. For every Garden is Tax'd more or lefs according 
 to its bignefs, for the Water it requires once a Week; which Water is let go into 
 the quarters which have need of it , every Garden having a particular Channel 
 whence they have their Water by turns. But you muft have a care of attempting 
 to bring this Water in before your turn, for fhould it come to be known , an eafie 
 Fine would not excufe the matter. I knew two Franks , who becaufc they prefum'd 
 to take in Water in the night time before it was their turn , had like to have loft all 
 their Land by Confiscation , had it not been for the particular favour of the King to 
 the Franks } and yet all that favour did not excufe them from being foundly amere'd. 
 
 There are four Bridges a quarter of a Leagues diftance one from another that crofs 
 the River of Stnderoa to Jfpahan. That which crofles the walk bears the name of 
 Alywerdi-Kan , who caus'd it to be built , being alfo call'd the Bridge of Zulfa. It 
 is built of good Brick joyn'd together with Free-ftone , and very level , not being 
 higher in the middle than at either end. It is not above three hundred and fifty paces 
 long , and twenty broad , being fupported by feveral fmall Arches of Stone which 
 are very low. Of each fide there is a Gallery eight or nine foot broad which runs 
 from one end to the other , feveral Arches twenty-five or thirty foot high fupporting 
 the Platform, where when the heat is not extream, they that pleafc may walk for the 
 fake of the frefh Air. But the moft ufual pafTage is under the Galleries , where 
 there are feveral out-lets upon the River to let in the frefti Air. For the Galleries 
 are very high from the level of the Bridge , to which you afcend by eafie fteps , the 
 middle of the Bridge not being above twenty-five foot broad , ferving for Waggons 
 and Pack-horfes. There is alio another way all along by the Water fide , where 
 there are feveral Stones laid to ftep upon , to keep you from being watchet. It 
 crofles through all the Arches of the Bridge , through little doors made in every 
 Arch from one end to the other , defcending from the Bridge by a little pair of 
 ftairs , tak'n out of the thickiiefs of the Arches fupporters. There is another Stair- 
 cafe to afcend up to the Galleries of about two fathoms broad , with ftays or Rails 
 on both fides. This Bridge is truly a very neat piece of Archite&ure , if I may not 
 fay the neateft in all Perfia. There 
 
Chap. VI. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 There are alio three other Bridges upon the River , one above the Bridge of 
 Zulfa, and two below. The firft but meanly built, but very commodious for the 
 Armenians , when they travel Weftward, who would elfe be fore'd to go a great 
 way about, through the whole City of Ifpahan. 
 
 The firft of the other two Bridges below the Bridge of Zulfa, was built by Sha- 
 Abas the iecond , Father of the prefent King. It is almoft equal to it in Structure ; 
 but it has one particular beauty , which is a hexagonal place in the middle of the 
 Bridge , which cauies the Water to fall in that part with a pleafing noife. For that 
 being the deepeft part of the River , Sha-Abat relblv'd to build a Bridge there ; 
 partly for the Guars fake , to the end , they might not come through the walk of 
 T charbag , and that going from Jfpahan they might have a fhorter cut home. The 
 Habitation of the Gaurs is only a large Village , the firft Houfes whereof are but a 
 little way from the River-, though the walk that goes from Ifpahan to the Xing' j Bridge 
 is both longer and broader than that of Tcharbrig, planted on both fides with a row of. 
 Trees, but no Channel in the middle. 
 
 Before each of the Avenues to the Bridge ftands a Houfe that belongs to the 
 Ring for his divertiibment. That upon the left fide of the River toward Ifpahan, 
 was by the great Sha-Abat giv'n to the Capuchins. For as loon as they came to Ifta- 
 ban, upon their Examination , the King was extreamly tak'n with their behaviour. 
 He ask'd them how they liv'd , and whether they took any money ? To which the 
 Capuchins making anfwer , that they never handled any money but contented them- 
 felves with Alms; the King believing his Subjects, would give them very little, 
 beftow'd that Houfe and Garden upon them. But they ftay'd not long there , be- 
 caufe it was too big for them to repair , and too far from the Citv, fo that the Roman- 
 Catholickl in the Winter could not get to their Chappel. Now they have built them- 
 felves a very handfom Houfe not far from the King's Palace , at the Coft of Father 
 Jofeph , one of their own order. 
 
 There is another old Bridge a quarter of a League below the Gaurs Bridge „ 
 which is upon the Road from Ifpahan to Schiras. 
 
 But to return to the long-walk of Tcharbag, ,which continues above eight hun- 
 dred paces beyond the Bridge of Zulfa to the Garden of Hez.ardgerib. The Rivu- 
 let that paflfes that other part of the walk, comes from the fame River which they 
 have cut three or four Leagues above Ifpahan. When you have walk'd about four 
 hundred paces , vou meet with a fall of Waters that tumbles into a Pool , from 
 whence there are twelve fteps to afcend to the end of the Alley. The walk is 
 fronted by the great Houfe which ftands before the Garden of Hez.ardgerib , or 
 the thoufand Acres. The Houfe confifts but only of one great Hall over the Gate, 
 and four fmall Chambers at the four corners of it. 
 
 Hez,ardgerib is the faireft Garden in Afia , though it would be accounted no- 
 thing in Europe. However as it lies upon the defcent of a Hill, it confifts of fixteen 
 Teraffes, fuftain'd by a Wall fixteen or feventeen foot high. There is but little 
 Water in any of the Wells but that which has moft is in the fourth Terrafs. That 
 is a great Octagonal Pool about a hundred and twenty foot in Diameter , round 
 about which are feveral Pipes that throw up the Water about three foot high, and 
 there are three fteps down to the Water. A Channel pav'd with Stone runs through 
 the principal Alley, which goes no farther than the building. This Channel is as 
 wide as that of the Channel of Tcharbag , whence it is fupply'd as being right oppo- 
 fite to it. In the tenth Terrafs you meet with another Fountain of the fame bignefs 
 and form with that in the fourth and in the laft which terminates the Grand Alley 
 and the length of the Garden , there is another Channel which crofies all the Alleys , 
 which, like the great one compofe the length of the Alley. Befides this, there 
 are op'n Rooms to take the frefh Air , fame falls and murmurs of Water , but for 
 borders and clofe Alleys, and Arbours, you muft expeft no fuch -thing , either in 
 Hezarrdgerib , nor in any other part of Perfia. 
 
 Having walk'd in the great walk of Tcharbag , you meet upon the right hand 
 with a Street between two Walls of the Gardens that belong to the King , which 
 Street leads you to Zulfa , not above two or three Mufquet Shots diftance 
 off. f' 
 
 Zulfa a Colony of Armenians which Sha-Abas brought from Zulfa a City of 
 'Armenia , is fo much encreas'd for fome years fince , that it may now pafs for % 
 * ' large 
 
158 SSfe Persian Travels Book IV. 
 
 large City, being almoft a League and a half long , and near upon half as much 
 broad. There are two principal Streets which contain near upon the whole length, 
 one whereof has on each fide a row of Tchinars, the roots whereof are refrefh'd by a 
 fraall Channel of Water, which by a particular order the Armenians bring to the 
 City, to water their Gardens. The moft part of the other Streets have alfo a row of 
 Trees, and a Channel. And for their Houfes, they are generally better built, and 
 more chearful than thofe of Jfpahan. 
 See the Defcri- How they came to be fetled here, I have already defcrib'd : And now the number 
 ption of Zul- of Inhabitants is ftrangely increas'd by the acceflion of feveral other Chriftians of 
 pha. divers Sects , as Jacobites, Cophtes, and Nefiorians , who formerly liv'd in the Suburbs 
 
 of Jfpahan. Neither was Sha-^bas fo cruel in tranfplanting the Armenians away 
 out of their own Country for they were all at that feafon poor labouring men, 
 who knew not at all what belong'd to Trade. Since that time they are grown very 
 rich : fo that the Armenians have no caufe to be covetous of the Habitations of their 
 Anceftors. And now I will tell you how they came to be fuch great Proficients in 
 Trade. 
 
 Sha-Abas, who was a man of a great Genius, and a perfon of great undertaking, 
 confidering that Pcrfiawas a barren Country, where there was little Trade , and by 
 confequence little Money, refolv'd to fend his Subjects into Europe with raw Silks, 
 fo to underftand whence the beft profit would arife, to bring Money into his Country. 
 To which purpofe , he refolv'd to make himfelf Mafter of all the Silk in his own 
 Country, by purchafing it himfelf at a reasonable rate, tax'd by himfelf, and to 
 reap the gains by his Factors: and withal, thought it necenary to feek an Alliance 
 with the great Kings of Europe , to engage them on his fide againft the Turk. He 
 firft fent to the King of France , Henry the Fourth. But he dying before the Am- 
 bafTador arriv'd , arfwer was made the AmbafTador, That if the King of Terfia 
 had any thing to fay to the King of France, Lewis the Thirteenth, he muft fend a 
 new AmbafTador, which was never done. 
 
 Three or four years after he fent an AmbafTador to the King of Spain , accom- 
 pany'd with a Perfian Merchant of Jfpahan, putting into their hands a confiderable 
 quantity of Bales of Silk. He alfo fent along with them a Portuguez. Aufiin-Friar, 
 to be their Guide and Interpreter. The Perfian Merchant would have fold the 
 Silks , as was the King's order , and have bought a Prefent more becoming. But 
 the AmbafTador over-rul'd by the Friar , refolv'd to prefent the King of Spain with 
 the Bales of Silk. The Merchant not able to oppofe the Ambaflador, returns home 
 forthwith to give an account to the King , who approv'd his management. 1 he 
 AmbafTador proceeds, and coming to the Spamfl) Court, prcfents his Bales of Silk 
 to the King , who ask'd the AmbafTador whether his Mafter took him for a Woman, 
 that he had fent him fo many Bales of Silk to fpin and immediately fent away the 
 Prefent to his Queen, prefenting the AmbafTador but very meanly: who thereupon 
 feeing the Errour he had committed, made haft home \ but upon his return , the 
 Perfian King having notice of the ill fuccefs of his Negotiation , caus'd his Belly to 
 be ript op'n in the publick Market-place. 
 
 About fifteen years after , he trufted a confiderable quantity of Silk with a 
 Merchant's Son or JJpahan , and fent him to Venice ? who when he came there, took 
 a ftately Lodging , and fpent his Money at a ftrange rate, efpecially among the 
 Courtifarts •, to maintain which expence , he continually fold great quantities of Silk. 
 The Venetians feeing a private man live fo fplendidly among them, and not believing 
 fo great a quantity of Goods could belong to one fingle Merchant , but rather 
 imagining him to be a Factor for fome Company who fuffer'd for his folly, wrote to 
 all the Ports of the Levant , and having intelligence who he was, the Senate thought 
 fit to feize his Perfon and his Goods , before he had confum'd all at the fame 
 time giving a civil account to the King of Perfia, what they had done. To which the 
 Perfian King return'd a moft obliging Anfwer of Thanks, fending withal an intelligent 
 Perfian Merchant to take an account of what was left , to whom the Venetians were 
 very punctual. As for the Prodigal Perfian, who thought it not his wifeft way to 
 return into Perfia , what became of him is not material to this Story. 
 
 Sha-Abas by thefe Experiments obferving the little inclination of his Subjects to 
 Trade, who were naturally addicted to Pride and Expence, which is no part of a 
 Merchant's bufin.efs , caft his Eyes upon the Armenians , men able to endure the 
 
 labour 
 
Cbap. VI. of Morifieur Tavern ier. 159 
 
 labour of long Journeys, fober perfons, and great Husbands, and fuch who being 
 Chriftians j might more freely Tr&de among the Chriftians 5 and made choice of 
 them , as being mod proper and fit for Trade. Whereupon , picking out the moft 
 Judicious among them , he deliver'd to every one fo many Bales of Silk , according 
 to their Capacity - r for which they were to pay at their return , a feafonable Rate 
 tax'd by the King , who allow'd them what more they got for their Expences and 
 Gaim. Thole people in a Ihort time became fo expert , that there is not any fort 
 of Trade which they will not now undertake ; for now they run as far as T rnqnin, 
 Java, and the Philippines, arid indeed over all the Eaft, except China and Japan. But 
 if they do not thrive , they never return \ as being a place where they muft eithef 
 give an exaft Account , or elfe fuffer the quick and fevere Juftice of Drubbing, which 
 never fails thole Factors that are ill Husbarids for their Mafters. 
 
 And indeed the Armenians are fo much the more fit for Trading^ becaufe they 
 are a people very fparihg , and very fober-, though whether it be their virtue or 
 their avarice , I know not. For when they are goirig a long Journey, they only 
 make provifion of Bisket , fmoak'd Bufaloh flefh, Onions, bak 'd Butter, Flowr, Wirie^ 
 and dry'd Fruics. They never buy frefh Victuals , but when they meet with Lambs 
 or Kids 1 very cheap in the Mountainous Countries nor is there one of theril 
 that does not carry his Angle to filh withal , when they come to any Ponds or 
 Rivers. All thefe Prbvifions coft them little the Carriage. And when they come 
 to any Town where they are to ftayj they club five or fix together, and lye in an 
 eriUpty Chamber which they ftlrnifh themfelves-, every one carrying his Mattrefs, 
 his Coverlet, and his Kitchuvlnftruments, which is a great piece of Thrift. When 
 they travel into Chriftendom , they carry along with them Saffron, Pepper, Nutmegs, 
 and other Spices which they exchange in the Country-Towns for Bread , W ine, 
 Butter, Cheefe , Milk-Meats , arid other Prorifions which they buy of the poor Wo? 
 men. When they return out of Chriftendom, they bring along with thefn all forts 
 of Mercery-ware , and Pedlery-ware of Noremberg and Venice •, as little Looking- 
 glaflesj trifles of Tin enamel'd , falfe Pearls, and other things of that nature} which 
 pays for the Vi&uals they call for among the Country-people. 
 
 In the beginning of their Trade , there return'd very few Caravant into Perfm 
 without two hundred thoufand Crowns in Silver, befide Englijh and Dutch Clothes, 
 fineTiflues, Looking-glafles, Venice-PearU , Cochenel, and Watches j which they 
 thought moft proper for the Sale of Ptrfia and India. 
 
 At length thole Armenians became fo exquifite in Trade , that feveral of them 
 have left Eftates of two, fome twenty thoufand Tomans. But the richeft among 
 them was Cotgia, or Monfieur Petrvu, who left forty thoufand Tomans in coyn'd Money, 
 befides his Horfes* Furniture, arid Lands in the Country, his Jewels and Plate -, all 
 which are never reckon'd a Merchant's Eftate , but only the ready Calh with which 
 he trades. Cotgia Petrm was very much efteem'd for his Charity, and the great 
 Church which he built , which is a kind of Covent, with a Bifhop and Monks. Nor 
 is the fair Market-place all envirdn'd with Shops , a Jittte beholding to his Gene- 
 rofity; 
 
 Trie Armenians of Zulpbd Have this advantage over all the Chriftians of the Eaft, 
 that they enjoy Lands and Privifedges, the King not permitting the leaft injuftice 
 to be done them , ilor that any Mahometan fhould live at Zalpha. They have alfo 
 the priviledge to be as well clad as the Perfians, and to make ufe as they do of Bridles 
 of Gold and Silver. Their Wives alfo are very richly habited , in ftrip'd Sattins 
 purfl'd with Gold , arid Other rich £urof<tan Silks. 
 
 The King names whom he pleafes among the Armenians to be their Chief*, whom 
 they call Kelonter, who judges all their differences , arid taxes them to make up the 
 Sum which they are to pay to the King every year. 
 
 The Language of the Armenians is either vulgar or learned : the learned is only 
 rdsM by the Ecclefiafticks , in reference to their Religion. They write like us , front 
 the feft to the right, having found out peculiar Characters about four years fince. 
 They have three Languages very natural to them , which however are very different : 
 the Armenian , which is their ancient Country-fpeech , which they have preferv'd 
 from Father to Son the Perfian, which is the Language of the Country where they 
 live and the T«r^ , of which they make very much ufe in courfe of Trade, As 
 for their Women , they fpeak nothing but the Armenian , as having noconverfe with 
 
 ftrangers, 
 
i6o 
 
 The Persian Travels Book IV* 
 
 ftrangers j and never ftirring out of their houfes. There are fome Armenians fpeak 
 Italian and French , as having learnt it in Europe. 
 
 There are in Zulpha fifteen or fixteen Churches and Chappels of the Armenians t 
 among which you are to count two Nunneries for Women. There are in Jfpahan 
 Auftin-Ftiats , Carmelites , and Capuchins , and in Zulpha Jefuits. The Jefuits that 
 came laft have but a little Houfe* but to make them amends they have a large Garden. 
 Though the number of the Religious Teachers is far greater then the number of 
 Hearers : for in all Jfpahan and Zulpha, take the Franks that come out of furope, or 
 born in Perfia , as well Men as Women, there are not fix hundred per Ions that profefs 
 the Catholick Religion. As for the Armenians, they are fo obftinately nVd to their 
 own Religion , that they will hear of no other and nothing but Money has fome- 
 times caus'd them to feign the embracing of another. Friar Ambreje a Capuchin ftaid 
 a while at Zulpha , to whom feveral of the principal Armenians came to School to 
 learn French > in hopes of eftablifhing a Trade with France. But the Armenian 
 Archbiftiop and Bifhops fearing left the Children ftiould be infefted with fome other 
 Religion, excommunicated all Fathers that lent their Children to School. And finding 
 that they little regarded the Excommunication, they fhut up the Church doors , and 
 ftir'd up the People againft the Religious Franks ; fo that Father Ambrofe was fore'd 
 to leave Perfia, and retire to Surat. 
 
 Moreover there are in Jfpahan both Jews and Indian Idolaters. Nor arc the Jem 
 fo miferable and beggarly, as they fcem to be : they intrude, according to cuftora, into 
 all Bufinefs fo that if any has a mind to buy or fell any rich Jewel , he need do no 
 more but fpeak to them. In the Reign of Sha-Abas, the Athtmadoulet perfecuted them 
 fo gricvoufly, that either by force or by cunning he caus'd them to turn Mahometans ; 
 but the King underftanding that Only power and fear had conftram'd them to turn* 
 u>fTer'd them to refume their own Religion , and to live in quiet. 
 
 There are about ten or twelve thoufand Banians in Jfpahan, who are known by their, 
 yellow Complexions, or rather by a yellow Mark made with Saffron upon the top of 
 their Foreheads. Their Turbants are lefs than ufual, and their Shooes arc almoft like 
 ours, embroider'd with Flowers a-top. They are all Bankers, and very knowing in 
 Money. The greateft part of the Money of the principal Money'd men of Jfpahan 
 is in their hands for improvement fake* So that if you want a confiderable Sum, you 
 may have it the next day upon good Security, and paying fevere a Intereft,which thofe 
 Banians will 1'queez up fometimes to 1 8 per Cent. But if it be not very privately 
 exacted and paid, the Law of Mahomet , which forbids the taking of Intereft , lays 
 hold upon the whole Sum, and confiscates it every Penny. 
 
 - ■ *» ■ - ■ - • 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Of the (Religion of the Perfians $ of the great Feajl of Hocen and 
 HuiTein, and the Camel-Feaft, 
 
 r | ^ M E difference amorig the Mahometans , doth not confift in the different 
 Explanations which they put upon the Alcoran ; but in the feveral Opi- 
 R rtlons which they hold concerning the firft SuccelTors of Mahomet, from 
 .JL which have aris'n two particular Sefts entirely oppofite •, the Seft of the 
 Sunnis, and the Sett of the Schiais. 
 
 The firft, who are of theT«^; belief, maintain that Abou-baker fucceeded im- 
 mediately to Mahomet, as his Vicar or Vicegerent \ to him Omar-, to Omar Ofman; 
 to Ofman Mortux.-AU , Nephew and Son-in-law to Mahomet by Marriage of his 
 Daughter. That Ofman was Secretary to Mahomet , a pcrfon of Courage « as well 
 as the other three : and that they were all valiant Souldiers , and great Captains, 
 who extended their Conquefts more by force of Arms than by Reafon. And thence it 
 comes that the Sunnis will not allow of Difputes , but propagate and maintain their 
 Religion altogether by force. 
 
 The Schiais, who are of the Perfian belief, deteft Aboubaker.Omar, and Ofinan, as 
 Ufurpers to the Succeffion of Mahomet, which only belong'd to Holy, his Nephew 
 
 and 
 
Chap. VII. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 and Son in Law. They hold that this fuccefiion confifts in elev'n High Priefts defen- 
 dants from Haly , who makes the twelfth in this order, i. Haly, Son of About aleb. 
 2. Hocen, eldeft Son of Halt. 3. Hujfein, his fecond Son , who fuffer'd death in 
 defence of his Father's Succeflion. The place where the Sunnvs gave him battel 
 and flew him, is call'd Kerbela near to Babylon, and is a holy place in high venera- 
 tion among the Perfians. 4 Iman-z.in-el-Abedin. 5. Mahomet-el-Baker. 6. lafer* 
 el-Scadekj) who introdue'd the Law into Perfia, that if any Chrijlian, Jew, or Idolater 
 turn'd Mahuntetan, he {hould be dedar'd general Heir to his Family to the exdufion of 
 Brothers and Sifters, and that he might allow what he pleas'd to his Father and Mother. 
 Whence arofe two mifchiefs, that fome Armenians , Chriflians , and Jews turn'd 
 Mahometans , to get the Eftate of the Family, and others turn'd Mahumetans to keep 
 their pofleflions. 7. MouJfa-Katz.em. 8. Hali-el-Rez.z.a, whofe Tomb at Mefljed is as 
 highly venerated among the \Perfians,as Mahomet's among the Turks. 9. Mahammet-el- 
 Joiiad. 10. Hali-el-Hadi. 1 1. Hoc en-el- Askeri. 12.M0uhemmet-eLM0HhadiShaheb-z.a~ 
 man. The Perfians hold the fame belief as to the laft Iman, as we do of Enoch and 
 Eliot ; which is the reafon that feveral people leave them in their Wills Houfes ready 
 furniftVd , Stables full of ftately Horfes , and other neceflaries for them to make 
 ufe of when they return to Earth again. They attribute to this /man the Sirname 
 of Zaheb-z.aman , or Lord of Time. 
 
 Thefe two Seels of Sunnis and Schias over-run the three principal Kingdoms of 
 India, viz.. the Great Mogul's , the King of Golcondd! s, and the King of Vtfayour's. 
 The firft and laft being Sunnis , that is to fay , both the Kings and Lords of the 
 Court ; for their Subjects are moft of them Idolaters. Some Schtats there are in the 
 Courts of both Kings, in regard the Officers of the Army are for the moft part 
 Perfians , though in outward (hew they may follow the Religion of the Prince. 
 But the King of Gokonda Koutoub-Sha is a zealous Schiais. 
 
 I come now to the Grand Feftival of the Perfians , which is the famous Feaft of 
 Hocen and Hujfein. 
 
 Eight days before the Feftival begins , fome of the more zealous fort black all their 
 Bodies and their Faces , and go naked in the Streets with only a covering about their 
 lecret parts. They carry two Flints , one in each hand , which they knock one 
 againft another , wrything their Bodies , and making a thoufand antick Faces ; and 
 all the while crying out , Hujfein , Hocen ; Hocen , Hujfein 5 which they aft and 
 fpeak with fo much Labour, 'till they foam again at the mouth. In the Evening , 
 the devout people admit them into their Houfes , and feed them very well. During 
 thofedays, as loon as the Sun isfet, you (hall fee at the corners where feveral Streets 
 meet, Pulpits fet up for certain Preachers, who prepare the people that flock to 
 hear them to the devotion of the Feaft. Now in regard all Ages and Sexes go , 
 there is no time in all the year fo favourable for the Women to meet their Gal- 
 lants. 
 
 In the year 1667. the third of July , I faw the Feftival by the favour of the Nagar, 
 who appointed me a place juft againft the De'la where the King fate. This De'la 
 is a Room built with a jetting upon that fide of the Meidan next the Palace Gate, 
 one ftory high. Several Pillars fuftain the flat bottom or floor of the De'la , en- 
 rich'd with a Grotefco work of Gold and Azure , in the mid'ft whereof there was a 
 Fountain that was fill'd with Water by the contrivance of a Pipe. The Stage or 
 D//^was op'nupon three fides, the Iongeft fide jetting out upon the Piaz,z.a. Upon 
 the Wall of theoppofite fide, which was clofe , weretobefeen feveral Englijh and 
 Hollanders, both men and women piclur'd with Bottles and Glafles in their hands , as 
 if they were drinking to one another. Sha-Abas the fecond caus'd this Painting to 
 be drawn by a Hollander. 
 
 About fev'naClock in the Morning Sha-Sephi the fecond , who fince has chang'd 
 his name to Sha-Soliman the fecond , came and feated himfelf upon his Throne let up 
 in the mid'ft of the De'la , all his Nobility {landing about him. So foon as he was 
 fate down , the Great Provofi appear'd at the end of the Piaz,z.a mounted upon a. 
 fair Horfe , attended by certain young Lords , who caus'd the people , confiding of 
 the Companies of the two quarters of the City, which are twelve in all, to ad- 
 vance to the places which were defign'd them. For formerly the Companies would 
 ftrive for the way, and therefore the King to prevent diforder, order'd there 
 Should be a Prtvoft , or Maftcr of the Ceremonies to place them without difturbance. 
 
 X A? 
 
The Persian Travels Book IV. 
 
 As he was about his duty, a Horfe-man entred the Piaz.z.a , arm'd with a Bow , a 
 Quiver, and a Scimitar, follow'd by (even Men that carry'd every one a Pike upright in 
 their hands, with every one a Man's Head at the top. Thole were the Heads of cer- 
 tain Vjbcck^Tartars , the neighbouring and mortal Enemies of the Per fans , which 
 thole men had cut off from the fhoulders of their conquer'd Foes. The King caus'd five 
 Tcmans a piece to be giv'n to them that carry'd the Heads , and ten Tomans to their 
 Leader. After them enter'd three hundred Turks, which wete fled from the Borders 
 of T «r^f>,from whence the Country-people were tak'n by foroe,and fent to the Warrs 
 of Candy. They complain'd, that whereas they were wont to be fent to their Winter- 
 Quarters about the middle of OClobcr, the 7VJ^ kept them to the lame hard fervice 
 in Winter as in Summer. All thefe were order'd to advance into the middle of the 
 Piazza , where they made their obeyfance to him three times , and then humbly 
 belbught him that they might dwell in his Kingdom,with their Wives, their Children, 
 and their Cattel. The King order'd Money to be diftributed among them, and that 
 they fhould have Lands affign'd them to manure. Then the Provoji caus'd the Com- 
 panies to advance, every Company having the Thill of a Wagon carry'd before him \ 
 upon every of which Thills was a Bier three or four Foot high , the Wood of the Thill 
 being painted with a Cjrotefco of Gold andSilver,and the Bier cover'd with Sattin.When 
 the firft Company had order to march, three Horfes were led before, richly harnefs'd *, 
 when they were come about a hundred Paces forward into the Piazza , in view of 
 the King, they that led the Horfes caus'd them to gallop, and then all the Company 
 fell a running and dancing about with the Bier. Befides that, every one flung up his 
 fhort Caflbck , his Girdle , and Bonnet , put their fingers in their mouths , to whiftle 
 as loud as they could. While the naked people, with their Flint-ftones in their hands, 
 ran knocking their Stones together, crying out , Hujjein Hocen, Hocen Hujfein , 'till 
 they foam at the mouth again not omitting to wryth their Bodies, and to make all the 
 1'curvy Faces as before defcrib'd. The three Companies fucceeding one another 
 in the fame Formalities , by and by came two Companies more with a little Bier 
 upon their Thills, and in each Bier a little Child that lay as if dead. They that accom- 
 pany'd thefe two Biers wept and figh'd mod fadly, Thefe two Infants reprefented 
 the Children of Huffein , who when the Prophet was flain, were tak'n by Tend, Caliyh 
 of Bagdat, and put to death. 
 
 Upon this occafion you fhall fee a great number of Curtifans that come to the 
 Ceremony fall a weeping , who thereby believe their Sins are forgiv'n. 
 
 When all the people were come into the Piazza , notwithstanding all the care and 
 good order that was tak'n , there were ieveral that went to Sharps , accounting it a 
 great honour to fight fmartly in the King's prefence •, and farther believing, that if any 
 one be kiil'd upon that occafion, he fhall be Sainted as indeed every one gives fome- 
 thing toward his Interrment. The Grand Provofl feeing the Quarrel grow hot, and 
 fearing more mifchief, fent for five Elephants, which ceas'd the Combat, by drawing 
 the Eyes of the Spe&ators upon them. The Elephants march'd one before another, 
 according to their Pay that was allow'd them , and their skill in War. Not that the 
 King of Perjia makes any ufe of them in the Field , but only for State , keeps fuch 
 as the Indian Princes prefent him withal. Thofe five Elephants were cover'd with* 
 Houfes of Cloth of Gold , with a Fringe of the fame round about. And upon the 
 firft , which was the higheft and the biggeft , fate two Men , the one upon the neck, 
 who guides the Elephant:, the other upon the crupper , carrying trie King's Arm's 
 in a Standard fix'd to a Half-Pike. Upon the other four fate only one Man a-piece, 
 who were the Governours. When they came before the place where the King fate, 
 they were all rank'd five a-breft, at what time the biggeft, which was in the middle, 
 ftretch'd out his two fore-legs forward , and his two hinder-legs backward , 'till 
 his belly almoft touch'd the ground , after which manner the Elephant makes his 
 obeyfance. The other four did the fame. Then laying their Trunks upon the ground,- 
 and raifing them again over their heads three times more , they were made to ftand 
 with their heads where their tayls ftood and their Houfes were turn'd up , to 
 the end the King might fee in what condition they were , and whether well look'd 
 after or no : which being done, they were led away again. 
 
 I Upon one fide of the Room where the King flood , a little Scaffold was fet up, 
 cover'd with Tap'ftry, fome five Foot lower than the Kings. In the middle of the 
 Scaffold ftood a great Elbow-Chair cover'd with black Velvet, where fate a Moullah 
 
 ■ > ; with 
 
Chap, VIII. of Monfieur Taver^ier. 
 
 with fix other Moullatis round about him. The Moullih made a Difcourfe upon the 
 Death of Httjfein and Hocen of about half an hour long , which being ended, the 
 King caus'd zCalaat or Habit of Honour to be giv'n him, as alio to the others, though 
 not lb rich. When they had all put on the Habit , the fame MoMah return'd to 
 his Chair, and made a Prayer for the health of the King , and the proiperity of his 
 Kingdom. 
 
 All thefe Ceremonies lafted from feven in the Morning 'till Noon , at what time the 
 King retir'd into his Harcfrh. As for the People, they carry their Biers up and down 
 the City, and where-ever two Companies meet , whether it be for the upper hand, 
 or to get formoft , they preferttly fall together by the Ears , and knock one another 
 down: for they are not permitted to carry any other Arms than good big Clubs, 
 afmoft as big as Levers. 
 
 Some time after the Feaft of Huffein and Hocen, the Per fans celebrate another Fefti- 
 val , which they call the Feafi of the Camel , in remembrance of JwWs Sacrifice. 
 They have a great reverence for this Feftival , laying that it was a Camel and not a* 
 Ram which God fent to reprieve Ifimael ( affirming that Ijhmael was to have been 
 facrific'd, and not Jfaac.) They choofeout for this Ceremony one of the faired 
 Camels they can meet withal, and adorn and drefs him up with fevcral Plates of 
 counterfeit Gold and Silver, and then lead him without the City to a place which is 
 before, a Mofquee on the other fide of the River of Ifpahan , upon ZuLpha fide \ the 
 beroga or Provcft accompanying the people. The King was formerly wont to be at 
 this Feaft, accompany'd with his Nobility, and I have feen him there ; but of late- 
 years he never goes , the Deroga fupplying his place. 
 
 When the King went thither, feveral Moullahs pray'd for half an hour, after which 
 the King took a kind of a Jav'liri and darted itagainft the Camel: but now in the abfence- 
 of the King, the Deroga gives the firft ftroak. At the fame time they fling the Camel to 
 the ground,with Ropes ty'd to his legs,and cutting ofFhis head and neck together,they 
 divide the reft of the Body into eleven parts more , to the end all the twelve Com- 
 panies may have every one their fhare. Every Company carries their (hare to the 
 Mafter of the Companies Houfe, who is generally the ancienteft among them. Which 
 part is kept and falted up 'till the next Feaft, and the piece the year before, lb 'till 
 then prelerv'd,is then boyl'd with Rice, and is the foundation of the Feaft for the chief 
 of the Company, who take it for an honour to eat of it : For the reft , they boyl 
 Rice with Mutton and Hens, and befides that,diftribute large Alms to the Poor. 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 Of the Religion of the Gaurs , the flicks of the ancient Perfians, 
 adorers of Fire* 
 
 THere are no men in the world fo fcrupulous of difcovering the Myfteries 
 of their Religion , as the Gaurs ; fo that I was forc'd to frequent their 
 company very much in moft of my Travels , to pick out what I have here 
 to deliver. 
 
 Of the prefect Condition of the Gaurs* 
 
 AFter the Per fans began to perfecute the Gouts, great numbers of them retir'd 
 to Surat, and others into the Province of Guz.erat. Now the King of Terfia 
 lets them live in quiet-, and there are now above 10006 in Kerman, where I ftaid 
 three Months in the year 1654. All that live in India are Tradefmen , and for the 
 moft part Turners in Ivory \ thofe in Kerman deal in Wool. Four days journey from 
 whence Hands their principal Temple, where their Chief Prieft refides } whither they 
 are once in their lives oblig'd to go in Pilgrimage, There are forne of thefe Gaurs live 
 sicar Ijpahan. 
 
 * * 
 
 X % Of 
 
The Persian Travels Book IV, 
 
 Of their Original, and their Prophets. 
 
 THey fay that the Father of their Prophet was a Frankby Nation , whofe Name 
 was Axa r, and a Carver by Trade. That he left his own Country to live in theirs, 
 which at that time was the City of Babylon • where he took a Wife who call'd her ielf 
 JDoghdon. That one night his Wife dreamt that God had fent an Angel from Para- 
 diie to vifit her , who brought her very rich Cloathes , which fhe put on. That a 
 Celeftial Light prefently over-fpread her Face, and render'd her as beautiful as the 
 Sun and that when (he wak'd (he found her ielf with Child, which Child prov'd to 
 be the Prophet E.brdhim-z.er-sfteiicht. That the Aftrologers of that time , by their 
 skill in the Stars knew of the Birth of that Infant fent by God , who was to govern 
 Men , and reign in their Hearts. That thole Aftrologers went and declar'd the fame 
 thing to the King , telling him that there was a Child fuddenly to be born , that 
 would one day deprive him of his Crown. W hereupon the faid King , call'd Nen- 
 brout, and a great Tyrant, caus'd all the Women with Child to be put to death, through 
 the whole extent of his Dominions. 
 
 But by a Miracle the big Belly of the Mother of their Prophet not appearing , fhe 
 remain'd undifcover'd , and brought forth a Son. Her Husband, who knew nothing 
 of this Myftery, fearing he fhould lofe his head if he did notdifcover the bufinefs to 
 the King, before he found it out another way, went and confeis'd that he had a Child 
 born , but that he knew nothing of her being with Child. 
 
 Now you muft know, that contrary to the cuftom of other Children , that cry fo 
 foon as they come out of the Mothers womb, this Child laugh'd fo foon as he was born. 
 For being to triumph over the Hearts of the people, he was to (hew figns of joy, fo 
 that the people began already to rejoyce in their future felicities. This being fignifi'd 
 to the King, he call'd his Aftrologers together, to tell him the meaning of fo extraor- 
 dinary a thing, and what would become of the Infant. But the Aftrologers not 
 being able to fatisfie him, he fent for the Infant, and would have flain him with a Sword 
 with his own hand •, but God dry'd up his Arm immediately, fo that he could not. 
 However, not terrifi'd with fo great a punifhment, traniported with Choler, he caus'd 
 a great Fire to be kindled, and commanded the Infant to be thrown into it. But by 
 the power of God, the Fire which he had prepar'd to confume the Infant turn'd into 
 a Bed of Rofes, where the Child raoft fweetly repos'd. 
 
 They who from that hour began to honour the little Prophet, took away fome of 
 that Fire, which has been preferv'd to this time. They keep it, fay they, in honour of 
 fo great a Miracle and they have it in great veneration , becaufe it difcover'd the 
 merit of their Prophet. 
 
 Neverthelefs the King ftop'd not there, but ftill obftinate in his impiety, notwith- 
 ftanding all thefe Miracles, he prepar'd new torments for the little Infant:, but God 
 chaftis'd his incredulity and that of his people very feverely, by fending fuch an infinite 
 number of Flies, and that of fuch a peftiferous nature, that who-ever were ftung with 
 them dy'd without remedy, unlefs they immediately came and worfhip'd the Prophet, 
 and kifs'd his Feet, in teftimony of their repentance. As for the King , who ftill con- 
 tinu'd in hisimpenitency, an exemplary fate befel him. For one of thofe Flies flinging 
 him in one of his Ears, he dy'd a moft tormenting death. 
 
 His SuccefTor was Sha-Glochtes. He alfo at the beginning of his Reign began to 
 perfecute the little Infant, who now began to increafe in years and virtue. The King 
 imprifon'd him: but he was aftonifh'd when he heard that one of his Horfes, which 
 he always confided in when he went to Battel , as being aflur'd of Victory when he 
 rode him, had loft his four legs. Thereupon, wifer than his PredecefTor, and acknow- 
 ledging from whence fo dire a Correction proceeded , he fent for the Prophet out of 
 Priibn , ask'd pardon for his incredulity, and pray'd him by his interceffion to reftore 
 his Horfe his legs again. The Prophet willing to do him that favour, pray'd to God 
 four times, and every time he pray'd one leg return 'd to the Horfe again. The King 
 beholding fuch a Miracle, was half converted*, but being defiro us to be farther eon- 
 vine'd, he defir'd the Prophet to throw himfelf into a Bath of melted Silver, which 
 he would provide for him; promifing, if he came out fafe, that he and all his People 
 would receive him as one fent from God , and be obedient to his Precepts in all things. 
 The Prophet refolutely undertook his offer , and the Bath being ready, caft himielf 
 
 fearlefly 
 
Chap. VIII. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 fearlefly into it and as he went in , fo he came out without the leaft harm. Then 
 the King and all the people that were prefent ador'd him for a real Prophet , and 
 gave him the name of Zer-Ateucht , or WajlSd in Silver. 
 
 The Prophet perceiving that all the people had him in fo much veneration , with- 
 drew himfclf , arid would not be feen any more. Nor do they juftly know what 
 became of him which makes the greateft part of the Gaurs believe , that he was 
 tak'n up into Paradife both Soul and Body together. Others fay } that having found 
 an Iron Coffin upori the Road near Bagdat , he put himfelf into it , and was carry'd 
 into Heav'n by the Angels. They allow their Prophet three Children , who are not 
 yet come into the world , though their names be already giv'n them. They lay 
 that this Prophet Sbrahim walking one time upon the River without a Boat, three 
 drops of his nature fell from him upon the water, which are Mill preferv'd there. 
 That their God will fend a Virgin, very much belov'd by him , upon the fame River , 
 who by the reception of the firftdrop (hall become big of the firft Child , whom 
 they call beforehand Ouchider. He {hall come into the world with authority , and 
 fhall caule his Fathers Law to be receiv'd , and confirm it , not only by his eloquent 
 Preaching , but by many miracles. The lecond , whofe name is Oucbiderma , (hall 
 be conceiv'd after the fame fafhion he (hall affift his Brother , and by caufing the 
 Sun to (land ftill ten years, (hall convince all the world of the Truth of his Do&rine. 
 The third (hall be conceiv'd by the fame Mother, and (hall be calPd Senoieuhotim : 
 He (hall come with more authority than his two Brothers , and (hall perfectly reduce 
 all people to the Religion of their Prophet. After which fhall be the univerfal 
 Refurreftion , at what time all the Souls , either in Paradife or Hell , fhall return 
 to take pofTelfion of their Bodies. Then fay they, fhall all the Mountains , and all 
 the Minerals in the world be melted , and fhall fill up the great Chaos of Hell , 
 whereby the Manfion of the Devils fhall be utterly deftroy'd ? After this the 
 world fhall be levell'd , and be made fit to inhabit , and men fhall have every one 
 their apartment anfwerable to the degree and quantity of the good which they did in 
 their life time : but that their chief delight fhall be to behold and praife God and 
 Ebrahim their Prophet. They add that before the Refurreftion , thofe that are in 
 Paradife do not behold the face of God , no not the Angels themfelves , except only 
 one, who is always attendant on him to receive and execute his commands. They 
 alfo fay that God will have pity upon the Damn'd , and that they fhall go into 
 Paradife , as having fuffer'd enough already for their fins. By which it appears , 
 that the Paradife of the Gaurs is lefs remote from fen fe than that of Mahomet's in- 
 vention-, and that they have a confus'd knowledge of the myfteries of Chriftian 
 Religion. 
 
 Of the Books of the Gaurs. 
 
 EBrabim-z.er~Atemht being taken up into Paradife, they receiv'd by his means 
 feven Books of Laws , which God of his goodnefs fent them to inftrucl: them 
 in the way of their Salvation. . They alfo receiv'd feven others , containing an inter- 
 pretation of all the Dreams that could beDream'd. Laftly feven others , wherein 
 were written all the fecrets of Phyfick , and all the pofiible means for the long prefer- 
 vation of health. They fay that fourteen of thefe Books, which contain'd the expli- 
 cation of Dreams and fecrets of Phyfick are loft \ . for that Allexander the Great carry'd 
 them away , as cfteeming them a vaft treafure j and for the Books of their Religion, 
 bccaufe they were written in a language that none but the Angels underftood , Alex- 
 ander for madnefs caus'd them to be burnt : for which rafhnefs of his, God punifh'd 
 him, and afflicted him with that terrible ficknefs whereof he Dy'd. Some Do&ors 
 and Priefls that had hid themfelves in the Mountains to fave their lives from his But- 
 chery, after Alexander was Dead, met again together, and compos'd one. Book 
 by tne ftrength of their memories. I faw that Book which is a good large one, and 
 written in a different Character , either from the Arabian , Perfian , or Indian. 
 Their Priefls themfelves that read, in that Book hardly underftand what they 
 read, but they have other Books that explain what is contain'd therein. When 
 they read in that Book, as alfo when they pray they rye a Handkerchief about 
 their mouths , as if they were afraid their words fhould mix with the Air and receive 
 any impurity. 
 
i66 
 
 The Persian Travels 
 
 Book IV. 
 
 Of the manner of their Baptifm. 
 
 THe Gaurs never ufe Circurmcifioh , but at the Birth of their Children praftife 
 fomething like our Baptifra. For fome days after the Child is born, they wafh it 
 with Water wherein certain Flowers are firft boyl'd \ and during that dipping , the 
 Prieft, who is prefent, makes certain Prayers. If the Child dye without that Wafhing, 
 they do not believe but that it goes to Paradife but they hold that the Parents (hall 
 give an account for their neglect of the Infant, becaufe that Walhing increafes his 
 favour and his merit in the fight of God. 
 
 Of their ^Marriages. 
 
 THe Religion of the Gaurs permits them to have five Wives, if they can maintain 
 them j nor is it laudable to repudiate any one but in cafe of an evident Adultery, 
 or that fhe turn Mahometan ; befides, it behoves her Husband to ftay a whole year, 
 to fee whether (he will repent or no. If fhe come and acknowledge her fault to the 
 Prieft , he enjoyns her Penance for three years , after which he remarries them , and 
 they become man and wife again. 
 
 As to the Ceremony of Marriage, the Prieft, when the Couple come to him, asks the 
 Man and the Woman in the prefence of Witnerfes whether they both confent •, then 
 taking a little Water he fays a few Prayers over it, and then wafhing both their Fore- 
 heads he pronounces certain words, and there's all. But they are not to marry within 
 the third degree •, nor do they know what it means to defire a Difpenfation. 
 
 But you muft obferve by the way, that though they are allow'd five Wives, there is 
 but one which can be truly faid to be marry'd , with whom they are oblig'd to lye at 
 leaft two nights in a week, Fryday and Saturday, and fhe always goes before the reft. 
 But if fhe have no Children in feven years, the man is allow'd to marry another, but not 
 to repudiate the other , whom he is bound ft ill to maintain according to his quality. 
 
 So foon as Women or Maids perceive the cuftom of Nature upon them , they pre- 
 fenrly leave their Houfes, and ftay alone in the Fields in little Hutts made of Hurdles 
 or Watlings, with a Cloth at the entring in, which ferves for a Door. While they are 
 in that condition, they have Meat and Drink brought them everyday, and when they 
 are free, they fend according to their quality, a Rid, or a Hen, or a Pigeon for an 
 Offering \ after which they go to the Bath, and then invite fome few of their Kindred 
 to fome f mall Collation 
 
 Of their Fafls , Feafls , and principal Cercmo?ties. 
 
 T He Gaurs drink Wine both men and women, and eat Swines-flefh , provided it be 
 of their own breeding and feeding. They are very careful left their Hogs eat 
 any ordure for fhould they perceive that they had devour'd any thing of naftinefs, 
 they are ftrittly forbid'n to eat them. They never pare their Nails •, fo that if by way 
 of d if grace, or by any misfortune they are conftrain'd to cut their Nails or their Hair, 
 they carry that which they cut off to fome place appointed without the City for that 
 purpofe. Five days in a year they abftain from Meat, Fifh, Butter, and Eggs and three 
 other days they faft altogether 'till Evening. They have alfo thirty Holy-days in 
 honour of thirty of their Saints, which they keep very ftriclly, no man daring to work. 
 But the day of the Birth of their Prophet is celebrated with an extraordinary Pomp -j 
 befides , that then they beftow large Alms. 
 
 There is one day in the year when all the Women of every City and Village meet 
 together to kill all the Frogs they can find in the fields } and this is done by the Com- 
 mand of their Prophet , who was one day very much annoy'd by them. 
 
 Their Priefts have feveral Books full of fmall Pictures in Water-Colours , ill done, 
 reprefenting how the feveral Sins of Men fhall be punifh'd in Hell, efpecially Sodomy, 
 which they abominate. 
 
 Of their Funerals. 
 
 ^/Hen the Gaurs are fick they fend for their Priefts, to whom they make a kind of 
 Confeffion •, whereupon the Priefts enjoyn them to give Alms, and other good 
 Works , to gain pardon of their Sins, They 
 
t — , — — — - — — , — 
 
 Chap.VIII. of Monfieur Ta vernier. 
 
 They neither burn-nor bury their dead , but carry the Corps without the City, 
 into a wall'd place, where are abundance of Stakes feven or eight Foot high, fix'd 
 in the ground , and tye the dead Corps to one of the Stakes , with his Face toward 
 the Eaft. They that accompany the Corps fall to their Prayers at a.diftance, 'till 
 the Crows come •, for thole Cemitaries draw the Crows to them. If the Crow chances 
 to faften upon the right Eye of the deceas'd , then they believe the pertbn to be 
 happy, and for joy they give large Alms , and make a Feaft in the field. But if the 
 Crow fixes upon the left Eye , then they take it for an ill Omen, return home lad, 
 without fpeaking to one another give no Alms , nor eat nor drink. 
 
 Of their Adoration of Fire. 
 
 THe Gams would not be thought to give Honour to Fire under the title of Ado- 
 ration. For they do not account themfelves Idolaters, faying that they acknow- 
 ledge but only one God , Creator of Heaven and Earth , whom they only adore. As 
 for the Fire, they prelerve it and reverence it, in remembrance of the great Miracle, 
 by which their Prophet was deliver'd from the Flames. One clay being at Kerman; 
 I defir'd to lee that Fire , but they anfwer'd me, they could not permit me. For fay 
 they, one day the Kan of Kerman being defirous to fee the Fire , not daring to do 
 otherwife , they fhew'd it him. He it feems expe&ed to fee fome extraordinary 
 Brightnefs-, but when he faw no more then what he might have feen in a Kitchm 
 or a chamber-fire, fell a fwearingand [pitting upon't as if he had been mad. Where- 
 upon the Sacred Fire being thus profan'd , flew awav in the form of a white Pigeon. 
 The Prieftsconfidering then their misfortune, which h. ; ,<:l ruppeu'd through their own 
 indiicretion , fell to their Prayers w r ith the People , and gave Alms upon which, at 
 the fame time , arid in the fame form the Sacred Fire return'd to its place : which 
 makes them fo fhy to fhew it again. When they put any perfons to their Oaths, they 
 Swear them before this Fire •, for they think no perfon fo impious, as to fwear falfe 
 before that Sacred Fire, which they take for the Witnefs of their Oath. Their 
 Priefts put them in dread of very great punilhments, and threat'n them that the hea- 
 venly Fire will forfake them , if they prove fo wicked as to fwear falfely before it. 
 
 Of their Manners and Cufloms. 
 
 THe Language of the Gams is different from the Perfians, as is their Character and 
 manner of Writing. They love to feaft, and to eat and drink well, being very 
 profufe of their Wine and Strong-water. They never eat Hares, becaufe they have 
 their monthly Purgations , like W omen : for the fame realon they never eat Mulber- 
 ries , believing that they partake of the nature of Women and Hares. 
 
 If, when they comb their Hair or their Beards,any one hair happ'ns to fall upon their 
 cloaths, thofe cloaths mult be wafh'd in the ftale of a Cow or an Ox to purihe them 
 again. If by chance they happ'n to touch any ordure or naftinefs , when they come 
 hEme they muft wafh themfelves in the famellrin. If one of their Priefts meet a dead 
 Corps in the High-way, and chances to fee it, he is oblig'd to wafh himfelf in Cows- 
 Pil's, which they hold to be a good Purification : an Opinion held in fome parts of 
 India alfo. I ask'd one of their Priefts how they came to underftand the virtue of this 
 Urin •, who anfwer'd me , that a certain perfon who was contemporary with the firil 
 Man, having his Arm bruis'd and very black, by reafon of fome accident that befel him 
 through the malice of the Devil, fell afleep in the fields, and as he lay, an Ox ftaling, 
 a drop of the Urin flew upon his Arm, and prefently heal'd that part which it wet, and 
 reftor'd it to its former whitenefs : which the man perceiving when he wak'd , pre- 
 femly..follow~'d-the.Ox, and ftaid by him 'till he ftal'd again , and then receiving the 
 Pifs upon the whole wound, was perfectly cur'd . They alfo preferve it, and compound 
 it with a Water, which they caufe them to drink who have committed any Sin, after 
 they have been at ConfefTion for it. They call that Water the Cadi's Water , which 
 Urin ought to be preferv'd forty days, with an infufion of Willow-Bark, and certain 
 Herbs. When any perfon is confefs'd of his Sin, if it be a crying Sin, the party is 
 bound to ftay ten days in the Caz.is Houfe, and not to eat or drink but what the 
 Prieft gives them. And in order to Abfolution, the Prieft ftrips him naked, and 
 tyefr a little Dog to his right great Toe , which he leads with him about the Caz.i*s 
 
 Houfe 
 
The Persian Travels Book IV. 
 
 Houfe Wherever he goes, fometimes a whole day, fometimes longer, according 
 to the hainoulhefs of the crime. In that pofture he defires the Cazi to purifie him , 
 telling him that for his part he believes himlelf to be purify'd. The Prieft makes anfwer 
 that it is the Dog that mull purifie him , and not he. After that he powrs the com- 
 • pounded water feven times upon his head, then gives him a draught to drink, and fo he 
 
 is abfolv'd. This penitence cofts the criminal Sawce, who is afterwards bound to 
 feaft all his friends at the Caz.is Houfe. Being furpriz'd at this fuperftition, I ask'd 
 whether the women were fhrifted thus by the Cazi ; but I found that the Caz.t*s 
 Wives confefs and abfolve the women and maids. 
 
 One more ftrange cuftom they have , that when a man is upon the point of death , 
 they take a little Dog and fet it upon the expiring parties breft. When he is juft 
 breathing his laft , they put the mouth of the Dog to the mouth of the perfon dying, 
 and caufe him to bark twice in that pofture , that the Soul of the deceas'd may enter 
 into the Dog , who they fay will deliver it into the hands of the Angel appointed 
 to receive it. Moreover when any Dog happ'ns to dye , they carry him out of the 
 City , and pray to God for the Carrion , as if the Beaft receiv'd any kindnefs after 
 death by their Prayers. 
 
 Of the Beaft s > 'which they love or hate, 
 
 THere are fome Beafts which the Gaurs do mightily refpeft , and to which they 
 give a great deal of Honour. There are others which they as much abhor , 
 and which they endeavour'd to deftroy as much as in thern lies , believing that they 
 were not created by God , but that they came out of the body of the Devil , whofe 
 ill nature they retain. 
 
 The Beafts which they principally admire are the Cow, the Oxe, and the 
 Dog. They are exprefly forbid to eat of the flefh of a Cow or an Oxe , or to kill 
 them. The reafon why they fo efteem thefe Creatures is , becaufe the Oxe labours 
 for man , and Ploughs the Ground that produces his food. As for the Cow they 
 more dearly affett her for the Milk (he gives , but efpecially for the purifying qua- 
 lity of her Urine. 
 
 The Creatures which they abhor are Adders , Serpents, Lizards, Toads, Frogs, 
 Creyfifh , Rats , Mice , but above all the reft Cats •, which they fay are the refem- 
 blance of the Devil , who gave them fo much ftrength that a man can hardly kill 
 them fo that they rather fuflfer the inconveniency of Rats and Mice , than ever to 
 keep a Cat in their Houfes. 
 
 As for the other Animals before-mention'd , if any of the Gams fall fiek , they 
 hire poor people to go and find thofe Creatures out and kill them \ which they reck'n 
 in the number of thofe good works that comfort the Souls of the deceas'd. The rea- 
 fon why they hate them fo, is, becaufe they believe the Devils make ufe of them 
 to torment the Damn'd and therefore they do a work of charity that deftroy them , 
 whereby they mitigate the pains and torments of Souls in Hell. 
 
 The laft King of thefe Gaurs was Sha-Iesberd, who was driv'n out of his Country 
 by Omar the fecond , fucceflbr to Mahomet. 
 
ChapJX. of Monfleur Tavernier. 
 
 Of the Religion of the ARMENIANS, and 
 of their Principal Ceremonies. 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 How the Armenians Confecrate and Adminifler the Sacrament* 
 
 Since the ^Armenians Traded into Europe and began to be Travellers , their 
 Churches are better fet out then they were heretofore. They ipare no coft 
 to adorn the Choir and the Altar you tread upon rich Carpets , and for the 
 ftrufture and embellifhments of it , they employ the beft Workmen and the 
 choiceft Materials they can meet with. From the body of the Church to the Choir 
 there is ufually an afcent of five or fix Steps. Nor is there above one Altar in any 
 Church, upon which they fet the Confecrated Bread, before they fet the Chalice where 
 the Wine is. When the Mafs for the Ceremony is laid by an Arch-bifhop, at-the rea- 
 ding of the Gofpel they light an abundance of Wax Tapers, which Tapers are like 
 Torches. After the Gofpel is read , feveral of the Noviciates take flicks in their 
 Hands about five foot long, at the end whereof are Latten Plates with little Bells 
 hanging about them, which when they are fhak'd , imitate the found of Cymbals. 
 Other Noviciates there are which hold a Copper Plate in their Hands hung about 
 with Bells , which they ftrike one againft another : and at the fame time the Ecclefi- 
 aflicks and Laity fing together indifferent Harmonioufly. Ail this while the Arch- 
 bifhop has two Bifhops of each fide of him, who are in the room of a Dean and a 
 Sub-dean and when it is time , he goes and unlocks a Window in the Wall on the 
 Gofpel fide, and takes out the Chalice where the Wine is. Then with all his 
 Mufick he takes a turn about the Altar , upon which he at length lets down the Cha- 
 lice, faying certain Prayers. A fter that, with the Chalice in his hand, and the Bread 
 upon the Chalice , he turns toward the people , who prefently proftrate themfelves 
 upon the Ground , beat their Brefts , and kils the Earth , while the Arch-bifhop 
 pronounces thefe words , This is the Lord who gave his Body and Blood for yon. Then 
 he turns toward the Altar , and eats the Bread dip'd in the Wine - 0 for they never 
 drink the Wine , but only dip the Bread in it. That done , the Arch-bifhop 
 turns once more toward the people with the Bread and Chalice in his hand y 
 and they that will receive, come one after another to the bottom of the Choir, 
 whither it is not lawful for any Lay-perfon whatfoever to afcend ; to whom the 
 Arch-bifhop gives the Bread dip'd in Wine that is in the Chalice , which Bread is 
 without leven , flat , and round , about as thick as a Crown , and as big as the Hoft 
 of the Mafs , being Confecrated the day before by the Prieft , whole Office it is. 
 They never put Water in their Communion-Wine :, affirming that Water is for Bap- 
 tifm^ and that Chrift when he inftituted the Holy Supper drank it pure , without 
 any mixture of Water. 
 
 When the Armenians come to the Communion , the Arch-bifhop or the Prieft 
 fays thefe words : I confers and believe that this is the Body and Blood of the Son of (jod, 
 who takes away the fins of the World , who ts not only ours , but the Salvation of all 
 Mankind. The Prieft repeats thefe words three times to the people , to inftruct 
 them and to teach them to what end they receive the Sacrament. Every time the Prieft 
 fays the words , the people fay after him word for word-, and when the Prieft ferves 
 the» people, he breaks the Hoft into little bits which he dips in the Wine, and 
 gives to every one of the Communicants. That which I raoft wonder at is, that 
 they give the Communion to Children of two or three months old , which their 
 Mothers bring in their arms •, though many times , the Children put it out of their 
 mouths again. They nevdr adminifter the Sacrament all the time of their Lent , for 
 then they never fay Mafs but upon Sunday noon, which they call Low-Mafs, at which 
 time they never fee the Prieft , who has a Curtain drawn before the Altar , and only 
 reads the Gofpel and Creed aloud. Sometimes upon Thnrfday in the Paffion week 
 
 Y they 
 
The Persian Travels Book IV. 
 
 they fay Low-Mafs about noon , and then they Confefsand adminifter the Sacrament : 
 But generally they ftay 'till Saturday, and then the Communicants, after they have 
 receiv'd, are permitted to eat Fifh, Eggs, Butter, Oyl, or any thing elfe except Flefh. 
 Upon Eafler-day^ by break of day, thePrieft lays Low-Mafs, ConfelTes , and Admini- 
 fters , after which it is lawful to eat Flefh. But the Beafts muft be kill'd upon £ after - 
 day, and not fo much as upon Eafter-eve. They have four other Feafts in the year, 
 wherein they obferve the fame Ceremony, eating neither Flefh, Filh, Eggs, Butter, 
 nor Oyl for eight days : which four Feafts are Chriftmas, the Afcent ion, the Annunciation y 
 and St. George's. Before this laft Feaft theyftretch their devotion to the utmoft, for 
 fome will fall three days , fome five , one after another. 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Of the ordination of their Priefthood • and their Aufterities. 
 
 WHen a Father dcfigns his Son to the Priefthood, he carries him to the 
 Prieft, who puts the Cope, op'n on both fides, about his Shoulders 
 after which the Father and Mother take him home again. This 
 Ceremony is repeated feven times in feveral years, according to the 
 years of the young Child, 'till he come to be of age to fay Mafs. If he be not de- 
 fign'd for a Monk , but for the Priefthood , after the fourth time of putting on the 
 Chafuble or op'n Cope, they marry him : for their Priefts marry once, but if that Wife 
 dye , if they intend to marry again, they muft give over faying Mafs. The fix firft 
 Ceremonies being over, when the Youth comes to the age of 1 8 years , at what time 
 they are capable of faying Mafs , as well thofe who are defign'd for Monks , as thofe 
 who are marry'd Priefts , they proceed to the feventh and laft Ceremony, which 
 muft be perform'd by an Archbifhop or a Bifhop who invefts the young Prieft with 
 ail the Habits which the Priefts wear that fay Mafs. That being done , he goes into 
 the Church , out of which he is not to depart for a whole year ^ during all which 
 time he is altogether employ'd in the fervice of the Church. The Prieft who is mar- 
 ry'd, muft be five days after he has faid Mafs before he returns home to eat or drink, 
 or lye with his Wife. And as well the Monks as Priefts , when they intend to fay 
 Mafs again , muft remain five days in the Church , without either going to bed or 
 touching any thing with their hands , unlefs it be the Spoon where-with they eat their 
 meat : not daring all the while to fpit or blow their nofes. The next five days after 
 they have laid Mafs, though fuch days upon which they might otherwife eat Flefh 
 and Fifh , they are oblig'd to feed upon nothing elfe but Eggs without Butter, and 
 Rice boy! d with Water and Salt.The morning before they celebrate Mafs,if the Prieft 
 have by chance fwallow'd a drop of Water, he muft not fay Mais. 
 
 Their Aufterities are fuch , that many of their Bifhops never eat Flefh or Fifh above 
 four times a year but more then that, when they come to be Archbifhops, they only 
 live upon Pulfe. They have fix months and three days in a year wherein they "keep 
 Lent, or particular Fafts , which you pleale to call them:, and during all that time, 
 as well the Ecclefiaftical perfons as the Laity, feed only upon Bread, and fome few 
 Herbs which grow in their Gardens. There was an Armenian of Zulfha whole fuper- 
 ftition was fo great, that he made his Horfe to faft with him , allowing him but very 
 little either to eat or drink for a whole week together. As for the poor labouring 
 people, they only feed upon Pulfe , boyl'd in Water and Salt : for during their chief 
 Lent , they are permitted no more then others , to eat either Butter or Oyl \ nay 
 though they lay a dying , it is not lawful for them to eat Flefh upon thofe days wherein 
 that diet is forbidd'n. They may only eat Wall-nuts or Small-nuts , Almonds or Pifta- 
 ches, or fome fuch other Fruit that affords no Oyl ; and they have this farther liberty, 
 to pound them, and put them among their Pulfe or their Herbs, and boyl them with 
 Rice. 
 
 CHAP, 
 
Chap.XI. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 CHAP. XI. 
 
 Of their 'Baptifm. 
 
 *1 1 S the cuftom of the Armenians to Baptize their Infants upon Sunday- 
 or if they Baptize any upon the week-days, it is only in cafe of neceflity^ 
 when they think they will not live. The Midwife carries the Infant to 
 JsL Church, and holds it in her arms, 'till either the Archbifhop, the Bifhop, 
 or the Prieft has laid fome part of the Form of Baptifm. Then he that baptizes takes 
 the Infant which is naked, and plunges it in the Water, and then taking it out again, 
 puts it into the hands of the God-father) and goes on with the Prayers. While he 
 reads them , with the Cotton which he has in his hand he twifts a fixing about half 
 an Ell long. He makes another alio of red Silk, which is flat-, then twilling thofe two 
 firings together, he puts them about the Child's neck. They fay, that thefe two 
 firings, one of white Cotton, and the other of red Silk , fignifies the Blood and Water 
 which flow'd from the Body of Christ, when he was wounded with the Lance upon 
 the Crofs. Having ty'd the cord about the neck of the Child , he takes the holy Oyl 
 and anoints the Child in feveral parts of the body, making the fign of the Crols in 
 every place where he drops the Oyl} every time pronouncing thefe words, J baptize 
 thee in the name of the Father , the Son, and the Holy Ghofi. He firft anoints the 
 Forehead, then the Chin, then the Stomach, the Arm-holes, the Hands and Feet. 
 
 As to the making this Oyl, you muft know, that every feven years, upon the Eve 
 of our Lady in September, againft which day they obferve a fmall Lent of eight days, 
 the Patriarch makes this holy Oyl - , there being no perfon but he who has power to 
 make it. He ul'es all forts of fragrant Flowers , and Aromatical Drugs :, but the 
 principal Flower is that which the Armenians call in their Language Balajfan-fague'^wc 
 in ours , the Flower of Paradife. When the Oyl is made j the Patriarch lends two 
 Bottles to all the Covents of A/ia, Europe, and Africa, without which they cannot 
 baptize. 
 
 The Ceremony of Baptifm being over, the God-father goes out of the Church with 
 the Infant in his arms, and a Taper of white Wax in each hand. According to the 
 quality of the perfon , when the Child is carry'd out of the Church , the Trumpets, 
 Drums, Hautboys, and other Instruments of the Country make a hideous noile, and 
 go before the Infant to the Parents Houfe , where being arriv'd , the God-father 
 delivers the Child to the Mother. She proftrates her felf at the fame time before the 
 God-father , killing his feef, and while fhc continues in that pofture, the God-father 
 kifTes her head. Neither the Father nor God-father names the Child, but he that 
 baptizes gives him the Name of the Saint whole Feftival falls upon the Sunday on which 
 the Child is baptiz'd. If there be no Saint's day that Sunday in the Almanack , they 
 take the next Name whole Feftival fucceeds the Sunday of Baptifm •, fo that they have 
 no affected Names among them. Upon the return of the God-father with the Child 
 home, there is a Feaft prepar'd for all the Kindred and Friends, and him that baptiz'd 
 the Infant, with whom all the Priefts and Monks of the Covent, atleaft of theParifh, 
 go along. The poor people were wont to be fo prodigal at thefe Feafts, as alfo 
 upon their Marriages and Burials , that the next day they had not wherewithal to 
 to buy Victuals, mUch lefs to pay what they have borrow'd for fo needlefs an expence. 
 But now the poor Armenians are grown fo cunning to avoid the Baftinado's which 
 are giv'n to Debtors upon the foles of the Feet, when they cannot pay, according to 
 the cuftom of Perfia ; that they carry the Child to Church upon the week-days, 
 without any Ceremony, with tears in their eyes , pretending it to be fkkly and like 
 to dye, and fo make no Feafts at all. 
 
 If the Women lye in fifteen or twenty days, or two months before Chriflmas, they 
 defer the baptizing the Infant 'till the Feftival , provided the Infant be healthy. Then 
 in all the Cities and Villages where the Armenians live , if there be any River or 
 Pond , they make ready two or three flat-bottom'd Boats , fpread with Carpets to 
 walk upon in one of which upon Chrifimas-day they fet up a kind of an Altar. 
 In the morning by Sun-rifing all the Armenian Clergy, as well of that place as of the 
 jiartsadjoyning, get into the Boats in their Habits-, with the Crofs and Banner. Then 
 • Y 2 they 
 
ij2 The Persian Travels Book IV. 
 
 they dip the Crofs in the Water three times , and every time they drop the Holy Oyl 
 upon it. After that they ufe the ordinary form of Baptifm , which being done , 
 the Arch-bifliop or the Minifter plunges the Infant in the River or Pond three times , 
 faying the ufual words , / Baptife , &c. and the fame anointings as before : though 
 it feemsa wonder to me that the extremity of the weather does not kill the Child. 
 The King of Terfia is many times prefent at this ceremony when it is perform'd at 
 IJpahan , riding on Horfe-back to the fide of the River with all his Nobility. The 
 Ceremony being over he goes to Zttlpba to the Kelonter's Houfe , where there is an 
 entertainment prepar'd for him. Neither is there any place in the World where a 
 King may be entertain'd with lefs charge than in Perfia. For if any private perfon 
 invite the King , and that His Majefty pleafes to do him that Honour , 'tis but for the 
 inviter to go to the chief of the Officers, and to carry him twenty Tomans, or three 
 hundred Crowns, and to tell him withall , that the King has protnis'd to accept of a 
 fmall Collation with his Slave. For then the Governour is oblig'd to fend to the 
 Houfe of him that treats the King all things necefTary for the entertainment. Elfe 
 it were impoffible to be done , in regard the King eats in nothing but in Gold Plate. 
 At the end of the Feaft the King is always prefented with fome European Rarity , 
 not lefs worth than four or five thoufand Crowns. Or if the perfon have no Rarity 
 to prefent , it fuffkes to offer in a Bafon the value in Venetian Ducats ot Gold , with 
 all the fubmiffion imaginable. Befides all this, fomePrefents mult be giv'n to fome 
 of the Lords and principal Eunuchs of his train ^ and others fent to the Queen Mo- 
 ther , if living , and to the Sultanefs , his Wives and Sifters. Thus though the enter- 
 tainment may be made with little trouble , yet otherwife it proves fomewhat expen- 
 five though the Armenians of Zulpha are well enough able to bear the charge. I 
 was twice at this Ceremony upon Chrifimas day in J/pahan. The firft time I faw Sha- 
 Sefi , and the fecond time Sha-Ahas the fecond , who drank both fo hard , that in 
 their Drink they committed thofe crimes that very much ftain'd their memories : 
 For Sha-Sefi returning home ftab'd his Wife, the Mother of Sha-Ahas. Sha-Abas ano- 
 ther time returning home in drink, would needs drink on, and force three wo- 
 men to drink with him who finding he would not give over , ftole out of his Com- 
 pany. The King perceiving them gone without taking leave , in a mad humour fent 
 his Eunuchs for them, and caus'd them to be thrown into the Fire, where the 
 poor women were burnt j for there is no refifting nor examining the Kings com- 
 mand. 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Of the Marriages of the Armenians. 
 
 TH E Armenians Marry their Children before either party have feen each 
 other , nay before the Fathers or Brothers know any thing of it- And 
 they whom they intend to Marry rauft agree to what their Fathers or 
 Parents command them. When the Mothers have agreed among them- 
 felves, they tell their Husbands, who approve what they have done. Upon this 
 Approbation , the Mother of the Boy , with two old Women and a Prieft come to 
 the Houfe where the Mother of the Daughter lives , and prefent her a Ring from 
 him whom they intend to betroth. The Boy appears afterwards , and the Prieft 
 reads fomething out of the Gofpel as a bleffing upon both parties-, after which they 
 give him a fum of Money according to the quality of the Father of the Girl. That 
 done, they prefent the company with drink , and this is call'd a betrothing or affi- 
 ancing. Sometimes they agree a Marriage when the Children are not above two or 
 three years old j fometimes two women that are friends being both with Child at one 
 time together , will make a match between the two Children before they are born , if 
 the one be a Boy and the other a Girl. So foon as they are born the Contract is made ; 
 and when once the Boy has giv'n the Ring , though it be twenty years after before 
 they are Marry'd , he is bound every year upon Eafter.da.y to fend his Miftris a 
 new Habit with all the trimming belonging to it according to her quality. Three 
 
 days 
 
Chap.XHI. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 i 
 
 days before the Celebration of Marriage, the Father and Mother of the Boy prepare 
 a Feaft , which is carry'd to the houfe of the Father and Mother of the Girl , where 
 the kindred of both parties meet. The Men are in one place by themfelves , and 
 the Women in another •, for they never eat together at publick Feafts. The Evening 
 before the Nuptials the Bridegroom fends a Habit to the Bride :, and fome time after 
 he comes to receive what the Mother of the Bride has provided for him, on her part. 
 If the Bride has no Mother , fome ancient Woman next a-kin drefles the Bride. At 
 length the Bride gets upon one Horfe , and the Bridegroom upon another , each 
 Horfe being fumptuoufly harnefs'd, with Bridles and Saddles of Gold and Silver, if 
 the perfons be rich : thofe that are poor, and have not Horfes of their own , repair 
 to the Great men , who willingly lend theirs upon fuch an occafion. As they fet out 
 from the Virgins habitation, the Bridegroom goes before with a Veil of Carnation- 
 Tiffany upon his Head, or elfe of Gold and Silver Net-work, the Mefhes whereof are 
 very clofe , that reaches below the Stomach. He holds in his Hand one end of a 
 Girdle fome three or four Ells long , and the Bride that rides behind holds the other. 
 She is alio cover'd with a large white Veil from head to foot, that fpreads alfo a 
 good way over the Horfe. Under which Veil, that rather feems a large white 
 Sheet , the Bride is hid in fuch a manner , that there is nothing to be feen of her but 
 her Eyes. Two Men walk on either fide of each Horfe and if they be Children 
 of three or four years old ( for fo young they marry) there are three or four Men 
 to hold them in the Saddle , according to the quality of their Parents. A great 
 Train of young Men , the kindred and acquaintance of both parties , follow after, 
 fome a-horfeback, fome a-foot, with Tapers in their hands, as if they were going in 
 ProcefHon : and befides all thefe, the Drums, Trumpets, Hautboys and other Inftru- 
 ments of the Country, all attending to the Church-door. When they are alighted, 
 every one makes way for the Bridegroom and Bride , who advance up to the foot of 
 the Altar, ftill holding the Girdle in their hands. Then the Bridegroom and the 
 Bride meet, and lean forehead to forehead. Then comes the Prieft, and turning his 
 back to the Altar, lays his Bible upon their Heads, inftead of a Desk , a weight fuffi- 
 ciently heavy , as being a thick ponderous Folio. There he lets it lye while he 
 reads the Form of Matrimony, which Office is moft ul'ually perform'd by a Bifhop or 
 an Archbifhop. The Form is very much like ours. The Bifhop demands the Bride- 
 groom, Wilt thou have fuch a one to thy Wife ? then to the Bride he fays , Wilt than 
 have fuch a. one for thy Haft and? to which they both anfwer with a nod of the Head. 
 The Matrimonial Benediction being giv'n, they hear Mafs % which being ended, they 
 return both together to the Daughters habitation, in the fame order as they fet out. 
 Thefe Nuptials laft three days: where the Women drink more than the Men.The Man 
 goes to Bed firft, the Woman pulling off the man's Breeches , though fhe does not 
 lay afide her Veil 'till the Candle be put out. Let it be what time in the year it will, 
 the Woman rifes before day. So that there be fome Armenians that in ten years 
 after they are marry'd never faw their Wives faces , nor ever heard them fpeak. For 
 though her Husband may fpeak to her, and all the reft of her kindred , yet fhe never 
 anfwers but with a Nod. The Women never eat with their Husbands-, but if the 
 Men feaft their Frinds to day, the Women feaft theirs the nest day. 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 How the Armenians Bury their Dead. 
 
 SO foon as any perfon dyes , one appointed for the Services of the Dead runs 
 immediately to the Church to fetch a Pot of Holy-water, which he prefently 
 pours into a great VefTel full of Water, into which they put the dead Corps. 
 This man is call'd Mordichou , or the perfon that wafhes the Dead which 
 Mordichou? s are fo much deteftcd among the people , that it is an ignominy to eat or 
 drink with thofe fort of people. Whatever the party deceas'd has about him at the 
 time of his death belongs to them , though it be any excellent Jewel \ for it is the 
 curiam of the Eaft to lve in their Breeches , Shirt , and Waftcoat, in regard they 
 
 never 
 
174 The Persian Travels Book IV. 
 
 never make ule of Bed-cloaths.So foon as the Corps is wafh'd,they drefs it with a clean 
 white Shirt, a pair of Breeches, a Waftcoat, and a Bonnet, all new, never having 
 been worn before* Then they put the Body in a linnen Sack, and fow up the mouth 
 of it. That being clone , the Priefts come and take up the Body to carry it to Church, 
 which is attended by all the kindred and friends of the deceas'd , with every one a 
 Taper in his hand. Being come to Church, they let down the Corps before the Altar, 
 where the Pried fays- certain Prayers •, and then letting up lighted Tapers round 
 about the Corps, they leave it fo all night. The next day in the morning a Bifhop 
 or an ordinary Prieft fays Mafs , at the end whereof they carry the Body before the 
 door of the Bifhop's houfe, attended as before at what time the Bifhop comes forth 
 and fays a Prayer for the Soul of the deceas'd. Then eight or ten of the poorer fort 
 that are next at hand , carry the Body to the Church-yard. All the way they fing 
 certain Dirges, which the Priefts continue, while the Body is letdown into the Grave. 
 Then the Bifhop takes three handfuls of Earth , and throws them one after another 
 into the Grave, pronouncing thefe words From Earth thou cam ft , to Earth then Jhalt 
 return , and ftay there 'till our Lord comes. Thefe words being faid , they fill up the 
 Grave. Thofe of the kindred and friends that will go back find a Collation ready ; 
 and if any other perfons will go along , they are not refus'd. For feven days alfo 
 they allow Dinners and Suppers to certain Priefts and poor people , if they are per- 
 fons of ability : believing no Soul departed can be fav'd , unlefs the furvivors are at 
 that expence. Whence it comes to pafs, thatfo many of the poor people are fo 
 miferable , and Slaves to the Mahometans , by borrowing Money to defray thole 
 expences , which they are not able to pay again. 
 
 When an Archbifhop or a Bifhop dyes , they add this farther Ceremony, that an 
 Archbifhop or a Bifhop writes a little Note , and cutting op'n the Sack puts the Note 
 into the Hand of the deceas'd , wherein are thefe words j Remember thy felf, that 
 from Earth thou cam ft, and to Earth thou Jhalt return. 
 
 If a Slave dye before enfranchiz'd , when the Body is brought into the Church, 
 the Mafter writes a Note, wherein are thefe words } Let him not grieve, J make him 
 free , and give him his liberty. For they believe that he would be reproach'd in the 
 other World for being a Slave , for which his Soul might fuffer tribulation. If the 
 Mafter be dead, the Miftrefs does the fame. If an Armenian makes away himfelf, they 
 never carry the Body out of the door of the houfe, but make a hole in the wall, 
 where they can mod conveniently^ and carry him to his Grave without any Ceremony* 
 
 The night preceding the Feaft of the Holy Croft, Men, Women, and Children go 
 to the Church-yard , whither they carry good ftore of Food , not forgetting their 
 Wine. Immediately they fall a weeping over the Graves of the dead , and after 
 they have fpent fome time in that doleful Exercife, they all fall to eating and drinking 
 thus palfing the whole night by turns , in blub'ring, eating, and bubbing. 
 
 As for the poor people, they would think themfelves undone, and the moft 
 unfortunate in the world , fhould they want Provifion and Wine to go to the Church- 
 yards, the night before the Feaft of St. George y where they go to frolick it , rather then 
 to pray for the Dead. 
 
 There may be fome few Armenians that embrace Mahomet anifm for worldly Intereft, 
 but they are generally the moft obftinate perfons in the world , and moft firm to 
 their fuperflitious Principles. 
 
 CHAP. XIV- 
 
 Examples of the Conslancy of the Armenians , in maintaining 
 their Religion againft the Terfecutiotis of the Mahometans. 
 
 I 
 
 T is the cuftom of the Armenians, that when any one of them apoftatizes, and 
 defires to return again to the Church , he cannot have Abfolution but at the 
 fame City or Village where he firft abjur'd his Religion. 
 JL. Now it happen'd that a young Armenian being fent to Smyrna with a very 
 confiderable quantity of Goods, and falling to debauchery, turned Mahometan, to 
 
 the 
 
Chap.XI V. of Monfieur Tavernier, 
 
 * the end he might defraud his Father and his Brethren of their Eftate, according to 
 Holy's Law, already mention'd. But after he had i'pent good part of the Goods 
 in Debauchery , he return'd to the Three Churches , where the Grand Patriarch 
 liv'd , to be abfolv'd from his Fault •, but the Patriarch telling him hemuft go to the 
 Bifhop of Smyrna , he went accordingly ^ and in fome few days after he had under- 
 gone the Penance enjoyn'd him , he went to the Cadi , and with a great Reiblution, 
 Sir , faid he , you know that fome years fnce I turned Mahometan } nova I come to 
 declare before ye that I have repented, and do repent of the foul Crime I committed, 
 when I denfd the Saviour of the World, and embraced your wicked Law. The Cadi, who 
 thought it had been at firft only fome evaporation of Extravagance, endeavour'd 
 to reclaim him by fair words and promifes - 7 but when he heard him perfift in his 
 refolution, when he heard him curfe and blafpheme Mahomet , he caus'd him to be 
 carry'd to the Piazza, where he was cut to pieces immediately. For no perfons go 
 with more courage and joy to fufTer for their Faith, then the Armenians. 
 
 In the year 1651 there happen'd to be a Wedding between a young Turk^and 
 a Virgin of the fame Nation. To this Wedding was invited an Armenian Lady, 
 who was a great friend of the Bridegroom's Mother. The Armenian had an only Son 
 of about twelve years of age , that earneftly defir'd to go along with her at firft 
 fhe refus'd him, knowing that after the age of five or fix years, no Youth is permitted 
 to be in company with the Turkifo W omen or Maids. But the Boy ftill preffing his 
 Mother , and being feconded by an Aunt, who to pleale her Nephew, told hpr fhe 
 might let him go in Girls Apparel-, at laft the indulgent Mother, over-rul'd by 
 the importunity of the Child, took him along with her in z female drefs. Three days 
 the lblemnity of the Turkic Weddings laft: but the very firft day, an old Cipfy- 
 T«r^ cafting her Eye upon the young Armenian , and finding him too ibarkilh and 
 too nimble for* Girl, fufpefted his Sex •, and calling his Mother afide, told her, that 
 by all the geftures and actions of the Child , (he could be no Girl, but a Boy in dif- 
 guife. The Mother not only deny'd the matter , but alio leem'd highly offended 
 at the old Womans fufpition •, who as much incens'd to have her judgment que- 
 ftion'd , decoy'd the Child among the Eunuchs of the Family, and caus'd him to be 
 fearch'd \ and finding her felf in the right, fpred it prefently about the houle. Im- 
 mediately the people cry'd that the Chambers were defil'd , that the Armenian Lady 
 had done it in derifion of their Law •, and feizing Mother, Aunt, and Youth , carry'd 
 them all before the Bafoa , demanding Juftice. The Bafha difmifs'd the Mother 
 and the Aunt , but kept the Youth fix or fev'n days , hoping the rage of the people 
 would be over. But in vain he ftrove to plead for the Child , though the Father 
 offer'd them half the weight of him in Gold, for the Baflia was fore'd to deliver him 
 up into the hands of the marry 'd Womans kindred } who carry'd the Child to the 
 Market-place of the City, where they ftript him ftark naked-, and firft they flea'd 
 him from his Neck behind down to the Waft , and fo left him with a Guard upon 
 him all night. The Cadi and MoulUWs exhorted the Child to turn Mahometan, and 
 they would preferve him from further mifchief. His Mother beg'd him to have pity 
 upon her and himfelf , and to turn Mahometan to lave his life. But neither tears, 
 nor all the tender words that grief and affettion could infpire , could fhake the con- 
 ftancy of the Infant, who with a refolute utterance anfwer'd , that he had hitherto 
 fuffer'd, and ftill would fufTer patiently *, and that nothing griev'd him, but that his 
 Mother fhould exhort him to deny his Saviour. Next day the pitilefs Turks came 
 and flea'd ail his Breaft and his Stomach , and fo left him all night under a Guard, 
 intending to have flea'd him part by part every day. But the Bajha abhorring 
 their Cruelty , came the next day with his Guards , and caus'd his Head to be 
 cut off. 
 
 Van is a City peopl'd as well with Armenians as Turks-, fo that it is a ufuaf 
 thing for the Armenian and T urkjfh Boys to play together. One day it unfortu- 
 nately fell out, that the Boys playing one among another, and flinging Stones at each 
 other, an Armenian Boy hit a young 7V^full upon the Temples, and ftrook him 
 dead. Prefently the other Turkifa Boys and the Rabble feiz'd him, and carry'd him 
 to the Bajha ; the Father and Mother of the Child {lain follow'd with hideous out- 
 crys , bawling for juftice , or that the Boy fhould turn Mahometan to expiate his 
 fault. The Armenian Parents offer'd a large fum of Money to redeem their Child :, 
 but the advede party obftinate againft all accommodation,the Bafia was conftrain'd to 
 
 deliver 
 
The Persian Travels Book IV. 
 
 deliver the Child , giving fentence that the young Armenian fhould endure the lame 
 death the Turk^ had fufrer'd , and no other. Immediately the Turks hurry'd the 
 poor Child to the place where he had unfortunately flain his play-fellow:, and after the 
 Parents of the young Turk^ had had the two firft hits, he was prefently brain'd by a 
 fhow'r of Stones from the Rabble. Yet as near death as he knew himfelf to be , 
 without any difturbance at all , he exhorted his weeping play-fellows to ftand firm 
 to the Faith of Jefus Chrift, for which he was going to dye. 
 
 Another time an Armenian Merchant coming from the Indies to Grand Cairo , 
 went to the Coffee-houfe according to cuftom , being a rendelvous of all the Mer- 
 chants in the Town. There falling into dilcourfe , by reafon of the heat of the 
 Weather , he took off his Bonnet made after the Armenian fafhion of divers Colours, 
 and laid it behind him, keeping his black Cap only upon his head. When the Moullah 
 came about to haften the people to go away according to the cuftom , which I have 
 already dedar'd , the Armenian haftily rifing up, a Turk^, concealing the Merchant's 
 Bonnet , dap'd his own Bonnet upon his head. Upon that all the Turkijh Merchants 
 that were there came and congratulated the Armenian Merchant, telling him, how 
 glad they were to fee that he had embrae'd the good Law. At which words the 
 Armenian imprtid , takes off the Turbant, throws it to the Ground before all the 
 Company, and ftamp'd it under foot. This action of contempt lb enrag'd the Turks, 
 that they carry'd him before the Baflia , before whom it was in vain to jufti6e himfelf, 
 or to affirm that the Turbant was malitioufly put upon his head', for the Turks fwore 
 the contrary, and that he took it of his own accord , and therefore he muft either 
 turn Turgor dye for it. Upon his refufal they put him in Prilbn , and in a few days 
 the fentence was brought him from the Mufti and Cadi, that he muft either turn or 
 be burnt alive. The feverity of the fentence overpower'd him at firft to' embrace the 
 Mahumetan Law. But four or five years after returning from the Indifs to Cairo , he 
 came where the Bajha was fitting in Council with the Grandees of the Country , and 
 getting as near the Mufti as he could , and throwing his Turbant in his face •, There 
 Dog , (aid he , Thou wert the caufe that J have worn it fo long , of which J have repen- 
 ted , and do repent from the bottom of my heart j for I know that neither thou nor thy 
 Law are worth a Straw. At the fame time the croud laid hold of him,and drag'd him to 
 the Piaz,z.a, where he dy'd in the midft of the flames with an admirable con- 
 ftancy. 
 
 A rich Merchant of Zulpha, call'd Cotgia Soultenon , was fo well belov'd by Sha- 
 Sefi , that he often went fo Dine at hishoufe, But one day it fell out that the King 
 having eat and drank to excefs , upon his return home fell crop-fick , upon which the 
 report ran that the Armenian had poyfon'd him. Which report coming to his ears , 
 fearing leaft the King fhould dye, and himfelf be put to cruel Torments , he took a 
 dofe of Poyfon and dy'd. Which when the King , who was well again the next day , 
 underftood , he was very much troubl'd for his death. 
 
 The fame Cotgia Soultenon had a Cafer fent him from Melinda for a Slave , who being 
 young and very apprehenfive foon learnt the Perfian and Turkifl) Languages , and was 
 inftructed in the Chriftian Religion , and Chriften'd by the name of Huz.od or Jofeph. 
 After his Matter's death he turn'd Mahumetan , and lb continu'd twenty years. 
 At the end whereof returning to Zulpha , he beg'd pardon of the Church ; 
 and all the reft of his days focrucify'd himfelf with Falling, that every onepitty'd 
 him •, and when the Armenian Bilhops told him he had done well , he made no other 
 anfwer , but that he was not worthy to live upon the Earth who had deny'd his 
 Saviour , only he hop'd that he would have mercy upon him ; and fo continu'd his 
 auftere penance 'till he dy'd. 
 
 CHAR 
 
Chap.X V. of Monfieur Tavernier 
 
 177 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Of the Author s reception at the Court of Perfia in his fixth md 
 kfl Voyage , and lohat he did there during his Jlay at Ifpahan. 
 
 W Arriv'd at IJpahan the 20th of December , 1 664.. So foon as the Naz.ar 
 I was inforra'd of my arrival , he fent the Kelonter or chief of the Armenians 
 I with feven or eight more to congratulate my arrival , and to allure me of all 
 JL. the kind Offices he could do me. The next day he fent the fame Armenians 
 with four Horfes } and to tell me that the King had a defire to fee what I had brought 
 for which purpole the Kcionter had order to furnifh me with men. Thereupon I 
 took Horfe , accompany'd by all the Franks that were at Zulpha. When I came to 
 Court , I was brought into the place where all the great AmbafTadors had audience, 
 where I found attending the Naz.ar , and Father Raphael fuperiorof the order of 
 the Capuchins , ready to deliver me my Box of Jewels which I had left with him in 
 the Covent for more fecurity. After I had expos'd my Goods upon a fair Table 
 cover'd with a Carpet of Gold and Silver, and that the Naz,ar had difpos'd every 
 thing in order with his own hand, the King enter'd , attended only by three Eunuchs 
 for his Guard , and two old men , whole office it was to pull off his Shooes when he 
 goes into any Room lpread with Gold and Silk Carpets , and to put them on again 
 when he goes forth. The King had nothing on but a fingle pair of Drawers of 
 Taffata, chequer'd red and white,which came half way the Leg, his feet being bare^ 
 a fhort Caffbck that came but half way his body, with a large Cloak of Cloth of 
 Gold with hanging-fleeves down to the Ground, furr'd with Sable Martin. The 
 firft thing I fhew'd was a large Candleftick of Chryftal of the Rock , the richeft 
 piece of that nature that ever was feen. The next was a fuit of Tapeftry hangings 
 held up by feveral men, as I had appointed. The Naz.ar then caus'd me to advance 
 and do my obeyfance to the King , who prefently knowing my Face again •, Oh , 
 laid he to the Naz,ar , This is the Fringui Aga who fold me Jb many Rarities about 
 fix years ajo , when Mahomet Beg was Athemadonlet. After that the Nazar fhew'd 
 him all my Rarities as they lay in order. Among the reft I befought His Majefty 
 by Frier Rar.ha'el , to accept of a great Steel Mirror, which when he look'd in, 
 he wonder'd to fee his Face lb big. But when Frier Raphael had told him the nature 
 of it , he caus'd it to beheld to one of his Eunuchs, which had a monftrous Hawk 
 Nofe , the fight whereof held him in laughter and divertifement for above a quarter 
 of an hour. After that the King retir'd , leaving me alone with the Nazar and 
 Friar Raphel. As for my Jewels I put them up my felf , and had a place affign'd 
 me to Lock them up and keep the Key , but for my large pieces of Goldfmiths 
 work , the Naz,ar committed them to the truft of one of the principal Officers of 
 the Houfe. 
 
 The next day early in the morning the Nazar fent for me and Father Raphael, 
 and made his Secretary write down the price of everything, according to his de- 
 mands. He had alfo his own Artifts to prize them } but that I did not value , in 
 regard I knew the price much better then they. After he had fhew'd the Jewels, 
 price and all to the King , we were feveral times before we could agree but at 
 length he told me , that the King would give me Twenty-five in the Hundred profit 
 for all the Stones leaving me the Pearls , which he thought I might put off at a 
 better price in the Indies ; which was an offer I could not refufe , and therefore 
 I fign'd the Agreement according to the Naz.ars defire : Which when his Majefty 
 had feen , he bid the Naz.ar tell me I fhould be his Jeweller in Ordinary, and that 
 for my fake all the Franks fhould be the better us'd within his Territories , and 
 that I fhould have any favour of him that I defir'd. I befought his Majefty to 
 give me his Patent with his Seal affix'd , whereby I might be priviledg'd to Trade 
 in his Dominions, without paying Cuftom for fuch and fuch Merchandize, and in 
 in fuch manner as I fhould think fitting. I alfo befought him gracioufly to grant 
 his Protection to a Nephew of mine , whom I had left at Tauris to learn the Lan- 
 guage , that he might be ferviceable to his Majefty when I was dead and gone. 
 
 Z There. 
 
178 The Persian Travels Book IV. 
 
 Thereupon he caus'd my Nephew to be enrol'd prefently as one of his Domeftick 
 Servants , and ordcr'd the Naz^tr to take particular care of him. 
 
 The next day after my agreement with the Naz.ar> the King gave audience in 
 the great Hall of the Palace to the Ambaffador of the VJbec^Tartars. All the 
 Lords and Officers of the Crown flood in the Court where the Ambaffador was to 
 pafs: there were alio nine (lately Horfes , whole Furniture was very rich, and all 
 different. Two Harneffes were cover'd with Diamonds, two with Rubies, two 
 with Emralds , two with Turquoifes , and one embroider'd with fair Pearls. Had 
 he been an Ambaffador from a Monarch for whom the King of 'Terfia had had a 
 greater efteem than he had for the Cham of Tartary, there had been thirty Horfes : 
 for according to the value which the King puts upon the Prince that lends to him, 
 he either augments or abates of the number of his Horfes of State. Every Horfe 
 is ty'd by the Reins to a Nail of Gold faften'd in the Ground , with a Hammer of 
 Gold lying by. There was another Nail of Gold behind , with a Cord ty'd to it, 
 that held their hinder legs. They let alio before every Horfe a Caldron of Gold, 
 out of which they draw up Water into a great Manger^ though all this be only for 
 State , for they never water their Horfes in that place. 
 
 Out of the firft Court the Ambaffador enter'd into a large Gallery, between 
 a long File of Mufqueteers on each 'fide. Thence he enter'd into a Garden 
 through an Alley about eight Fathom broad , all pav'd with great Marble Stones, 
 in the middle of which runs a Channel of Water four Foot wide , with feveral 
 Water-works that fpurted out of the Channel at equal diftances. On each fide of 
 the Walk to the Hall where the King fat , there is a Pond almoft as long as the 
 Walk) and in the middle of the Pond another fort of Water-works. Several Offi- 
 cers of the Army were rang'd all along the Alley ;> and at the end of one of the 
 Ponds were four Lions ty'd and at the end of the other , three Tigers couchant 
 upon Carpets of Silk , having Men to guard them with Half-pikes in their hands. 
 The Hall took up more ground in length then in bredth , being op'n every way 5 
 the Cieling was fuftain'd by fixteen wooden Pillars , of eight pannels every one, 
 and of a prodigious thickneis and height. As well the Cieling as the Pillars were 
 all painted with Foliage-work in Gold and Azure, with certain other Colours mix'd 
 therewith. In the middle of the Hall was a Vafe of excellent Marble, with a 
 Fountain throwing out Water after feveral manners. The Floor was fpread with 
 Gold and Silk Carpets , made on purpole for the place : and near to the Vafe was 
 a low Scaffold one Foot high, twelve Foot long, and eight wide, cover'd with a 
 magnificent Carpet. Upon this Scaffold fate the King upon a four-fquare Cufhion 
 of Cloth of Gold , with another Cufhion behind him cover'd with the fame, let up 
 againft a great Tap'ftry -Hanging , wrought with Terfian Characters, containing 
 the Myfleries of the Law. On each fide of the King Hood feveral Eunuchs with 
 Mufquets in their hands. The King commanded the Aihcmadoultt and four others 
 to fit down by him , and the fy 4 themadonkt made me a fign to fit down \ but the 
 King knowing how little the Frank* care for fitting crofs-leg'd, order'd me to be 
 told that I might Hand upright, if I thought good. The King was clad in a 
 Silk ftreak'd with Gold : His Cloak was a Gold-ground with Flowers of Silk and 
 Silver , Furr'd with a Martin Sable , the blacked and moft glift'ring that ever 
 was feen. His Girdle was very rich , and upon his Bonnet he wore a plume of He- 
 rons Feathers faften'd with a tranfparcnt Jewel ; in the middle of the Jewel was 
 a Pear-fafhion'd Pearl , let with great Topaze's and Rubies. 
 
 About half an hour after the King was fat , the Naz.ar and the Mailer of the 
 Ceremonies brought the Ambaffador, who neither himfelf nor any of his Train were 
 very well clad , and caus'd him to flay at the foot of the Heps into the Hall from the 
 Garden. When the Ambaffador had afcended the Heps, he prollrated himfelf be- 
 fore the King, then advancing nine or ten paces he did the fame again } after which 
 the Mailer of the Ceremonies caus'd him to fit down, leaving between him and the 
 King fpace enough for eight men. After that I obferv'd that the Naz.ar went often 
 between the King and the Ambaffador , and between the Ambaffador and the King ^ 
 but I could not tell what they fa id. So that I being by that time quite tyr'd , made 
 my obeyfance to the King , and went home to my Lodging. 
 
 The next day the Naz.ar fignify'd tome that it was the King's pleafure to favour 
 me with a compleat CaUat , or Habit of Honour , and to pay me my money. 
 
 The 
 
worthy to te prafd . ^ 
 
 bzlonyj- to Crod 
 
 J*he (ro-dof fflcrci/ 
 to y C^nmpafrioh 
 
 Pefian frars/L 
 
 t} Crcrd rno/l high 
 
 6 
 
 O ?7Za-homet O 
 Jdalu: 
 
 J7us C'onta.ine y flames of y t2 
 Prophets tvttfiouttheir /urname?- 
 
 J ?]te/k great Car-acters rattA t/ie-fc fare upon the 
 Jide of the tlamej of the iz Prophets fiynf e . 
 
 Jo the fZatne of Crcrd. 
 
 6<rdrvho is the aid of niahomet . 
 
 JfizICiru? rzrho has all power. 
 
 Everett, ff^t? £lftesent, £/mouf t . 
 
 Jnefe are the names of the fur Prophets 
 that haue follarved the J?oc trine of 'Jfa/t/ . 
 
 Mir 
 
 a/sen 
 
 Jfir/setn 
 
 
 isffaham 
 
 Jatcvr 
 
 Jtfoujsa 
 
 uy 
 
 SMahorml 
 
 
 Majsen 
 
 ITlahomet 
 
 Jhat which is under the flames of 
 the izPro-phets Jlqnifies ar follows 
 
 tfe wturatthistimeenroi/es t/Kuurdamc 
 7 he 7 7cforious ^tlras the f con d . I 
 
I 
 
t 
 
-U. ' * cA. ■ 
 this ts tj.ra is 
 
 on 1/ Kings fzale 
 
 J This is ny. is Coniein'd in y Jkale of the 
 jEmadouiet or fitft -44ini/~ter of State $ 4 
 Jea/e in the O rig mall is Jett be/und, no-e nvan 
 dareing to Jhc his female on y. fide, of y Kings . 
 
 <0 
 
 VZs J J 
 
Chap.X VI. of Monfieur Tavernier 
 
 The nest day in the Morning being fent for to the Court , I found the Naz*ar 
 the Grand Treal'urer,' andieveral other great Officers expecting me in the Trea- 
 sury, where the Money lay ready in feal'd Bags. My Sum amounted to three 
 thoufand four hundred and fixty Tom<ms , of which the Treafurer would have 
 abated me a hundred and fixty for Fees. After a long eontcft , I gave him half, and 
 carry'd away my Money having firft weigh'd two Bags, T oman by T oman , and then 
 weigh'd the reft of the Bags , Bag by Bag. 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 Of the Honours and Trefents Tbhicb the Author recelVd from the 
 f\jng of Perfia. 
 
 TH E day following one of the Nazals principal Officers brought me 
 the compleat Calaat, confiding of Veft, Tunick or Super- Veft, Girdle, 
 and Bonnet. He alfo deliver'd me three Patents , feal'd by his Majefty 
 and the Athemadmkt , which exempted me from. paying any Cuftoms 
 within his Kingdom. Another to the Kan of Schiras, with a little Seal or Signet, 
 commanding him to let me have three Loads of good Wine when I travel'd that 
 way. A third with his Signet , in favour of my Nephew at Tauris ; wherein 
 the King declar'd that he own'd him as his Domeftick Servant, and that he was under 
 his Protection. 
 
 The Firfl: Patent ran thus : 
 
 TH E Command of him whom all the Univerfe obeys has been made, 
 That the Beglerbegs of High Nature, the victorious and great Lords, 
 Ornaments of the Kingdom , P offerors of Honour, the Judges in high place, 
 prattifers of 'juflice , the Vifiers who preferve Reafon , and have in their 
 thoughts the removal of Vice, and the CommiJJioners who act in affairs and 
 difficulties of the Palace , the Overseers of the Roads , and the Confervators 
 of the good Cufloms of the well-order 3 d Kingdoms of Kragon ( which God 
 preferve from all misfortune) CM AT KNOW, That whereas the choicefi 
 6f his Refemblers and Companions, * Aga TAVERN I E R, French 
 Merchant has brought fo many Rarities of all forts to the presence and view 
 of the Lieutenant of the Eagles, who has all things according to his wifh, 
 has found the degree of favour and good will, ^ind whereas We have com- 
 manded him to perfect fome Bufnefl for Us, which fo foon as he has fnijh'd, 
 he is to bring to the holy and pure view. Therefore through whatfoever Road 
 or Coafl of Our Thnce-Jfacious Kingdom the above-namd jhall have a defire 
 or occafion to pafi, Let not the Receivers of the Palace , out of any feeming 
 expectancy from the above-nam d , give him any trouble or molefation. But 
 let them know^ that it is necejfary for them to give him all honour^ and to 
 make much of him , that he may go where he pleafes. K^ind whereas the 
 Seal of High Nature , the Light of the Univerfe of Kragon , of thrice- 
 noble extraction, the Mailer of the Age , has illuminated and adorn d this 
 Writing , Let them rejl there , and give Credence t» it. By the thrice-high 
 Command, &c. 
 
 Kragon : A King of China, fo renown'd for his Juftice, Vi&ory, and Magnanimity, 
 that fometimes the Kings of Perfia afTume that Title in their Patents, and fbmetimes 
 in honour of him , ftile themfelves his Lieutenants. 
 
 Receivers of the Palace , are Farmers of the Cuftoms and other Subfidies. 
 • Z 2 The 
 
\ 
 
 180 The Persian Travels Book IV. 
 
 The Second Patent. 
 
 To the Governour of Schiras , 
 
 TH E Command of Him whom all the World ought to obey, is fuch, That 
 the lllufriom and High Lord., whofe Office ought to be honour 'd, the 
 Governour and Prototype of Vifiers and Grandees, Mirza-Mahomet-Sadee, 
 /^Vifier of Fars may be affurd of Royal Favours when he underHands the 
 Contents of this Command. He jhall give three Loads of wine , of that 
 which he has in his cuUody, to the Cream of his Equals , Aga T A V E R- 
 N I E R, French Merchant, and you Jhall take an Acquittance. i^All 
 the Grand Vifiers , and Officers of Cufloms , and Guardersof Pajfes alfo let 
 them not molefi him at all^ let them take nothing from him , let them -permit 
 him to go and come as he pleafes , and let them obey him. Given the Month 
 of Jamady-EIaker , in the Hegyra c/Mahomet 1075. 
 
 January, 
 1665. 
 
 The Cream , is the Character of an honcft man among the Eaftern people. 
 
 But to return to the Calaat. You mud take notice, that the Per fans call a Calaat, 
 any Prefent'which one perfon makes to another inferior to him in dignity •, forae- 
 times a Veft alone , fometimes a Tunick with the Girdle only, lbmetimes a Tur- 
 bant, or a Horfe , with Bridle and Saddle to thofe in the Army the King fends a 
 Sword or a Dagger , and all thefe go by the name of Calaat's. Secondly, you muft 
 take notice, that when the King fends a Calaat to a Governour of a Province, he 
 names himfelf the perfon, that is to carry it. For both in Turkje and Perfia , the 
 Receiver of the King's Prefent is oblig'd to pay the McfTcnger , in lb much that 
 fometimes they hardly fcape for a thoufand Tanans. But when the Calaat is lent to 
 any private perfon, the Nazar choofes out of his Domed ick Servants one to carry it. 
 I gave twenty-five Tomans into Father Raphael's hand , who order'd his bufinefs with 
 fo good a grace, and fo advantageoufly for my Purfe, that he complemented away 
 the Meflenger very well fatisfi'd with half. 
 
 The next day the Nazar lent tome to put on my Calaat, and to come and do 
 my obeyfance to the King , who was that day to go abroad. Thereupon I fummon'cl 
 together all the Franks , and order'd the Trumpets and Drums to be made ready as 
 1 rode from the Palace home. For then the people come out to lee who the King 
 has honour'd that day, who is always known by his Habit, which is ftill the neweft: 
 and gayeft of all the reft. 
 
 It happen'd, that the King being indilpos'd did not go away that day, however 
 I apply'd my felf to the Naz.ar, and told him how much I was oblig'd to the King 
 for the honour he had done me, and that I was refolv'd to fhew my felf before the 
 greateft Monarchs in Europe in the Habit he had beftow'd upon me •, that they might 
 behold the beauty and richnefs of my Calaat. The Naz.ar fail'd not to repeat my 
 Compliment to his Majefty, who thereupon order'd me the Pcrfian Cloak, with 
 hanging fleeves, and fae'd with fable Martins. 
 
 Two or three days after the Naz.ar lent for me again to Court , whither I went, 
 accompany 'd by the Zulphian Frahki, as before. I was no fooner come to the Palace, 
 but the Naz.ar met me in the great Hall , attended by two Officers, who carry'd 
 the Cloak which the King had appointed for me, and prefentlv taking the Cloak 
 out of their hands, he put it about my (boulders , faying thefe words, It is the 
 Kingi ple.ij'nre to honour thee entirely. It was a raoft magnificent piece of Silk, and 
 very richly furr'd , having been valu'd at eight hundred Crowns. In this I was 
 particularly beholding to the Naz.ar, who might,have lent me my Cloak home to my 
 Lodging as well as the Calaat ; but he was plcas'd to put it upon my back in the Palace 
 with his own hands, to fpare me the charges of a new Prefent. After this the PTazar 
 took me bv the hand, and. led me to the Hall, where the King was fitting upon a 
 
Chap.XVIL of Monfieur Tavernmer. 
 
 large CuOiion, having no more than twelve Eunuchs for his Guard \ fome with Bows 
 and Arrows , and fome with Mufquets. By that time I had advanc'd two or three 
 paces in the Hall , the Naz.ar order'd me to fall upon my knees , and touch the 
 Ground with my forehead then taking me by the hand , he led me within two or 
 three paces of the place where the King was fitting , where I was order'd to make 
 the fame obeifdnce as before :, after that he caus'd me to retire feven or eight paces, and 
 there to (land. And then it was that His Majefty was pleas'd to tell me , that he had 
 contriv'd the Models of fcveral pieces, which he would have made in France, and 
 ask'd me whether I would carry them along with me , or whether I would preiently 
 lend them into France to be made up while I dilpatch'd my bufinefs in the Indies ? 
 I told His Maiefty , that lb foon as he would be pleas'd to deliver them to me , I 
 would fend them for Frame. After this and fome other difcourfe I made my obeir 
 fance, and retir'd toward the door of the Hall. Having thus done my duty to the 
 King, I went and kifs'd the Nazals hand-, and then taking Horieatthe Palace- 
 Gate , with the reft of the Franks that accompany'd me, we rode home with the 
 Trumpets and Drums of the Country before us. When we came to Zulpha with 
 our Torches before us, for it was three hours after Sun-fet, the Men and old 
 Women came out of their Houfes to fee us pafs along , and feveral prefented us 
 with Fruits , Sweet-meats , and Wine , obliging us to drink almoft at every Houfe 
 'till we got home. 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 How the iVjwg was pleas' d to diver tije himfelf in the Author s Com- 
 pany. 
 
 A Bout two days after betimes in the Morning I was fent for to the Court in 
 that haft , that I had l'caice time to make me ready. When I came to 
 Court, 1 found the Naz.ar, Father Raphel, and two Ho/landers, upon whom 
 the i\7^<zr had began tocafta partitular eye of favour all together. After 
 we had ftay'd a while , the Nazar brought us to the Room where the Ring was , 
 fitting upon a low Pallet, with two Mattrefles cover 'd with a rich Carpet. He 
 lean'd his back againft a large Cufhion four foot long , having before him eight or 
 ten Plates of Fruits and Sweet-meats. Before him alio ftood two Bottles , with long 
 round necks of Venice Chryftal ftop'd with Pitch , full of Sc.iras Wine, with a 
 Cup of pure Gold - , upon one fide a kind of a very fmall Fat and with a handle,within 
 three or four Fingers full of the fame Wine, with a Gold Ladle that held a good 
 Chopine of Paris. The Bottles were for the King's drinking - ? that in the Fat for thofe 
 that the King did the Honour to drink with him. After we came in and had made 
 our feveral obeyfances*, laid the King to Father Raphael , Raphael, bia , bia, that 
 is, come hither , come hither , who thereupon rifing , and falling upon his knees when 
 he came near the King -, Raphael , continu'd the King , if thou wilt drinkJVine , fiay 
 here, if not , begone. The Fryar unaccuflom'd to drink Wine, reply'd that fince 
 His Majefty did him lb great an Honour , he was willing to drink a little. 7 Tts very 
 well , anl'werM the King fmiling , go then and take thy feat. Thereupon the King 
 commanded one of the Dutch-men to fill fome Wine , which he did , but with a 
 trembling hand Heav'n knows, as never having been at luch a Feftival before. 
 And I obferv'd that having laid his Hat upon the Carpet, the King commanded 
 him to put it on , it being a very ignominious thing in Perfia to be bare-headed. 
 Thus the great Ladle went about very fmartly , confidering it was but early in the 
 Forenoon: But at length the King bethinking himfelf that the Franks were not ufed 
 to drink without eating , gave fuch order, that immediately they ipread before us 
 a Sofra of Cloth of Gold inftead of a Table- Cloth*, and over that a Leather Covering 
 of the fame length and bredth , and over that a fort of Bread as long as the Sofra - f 
 for had the Sofra been ten Ells long , the Bread muft have been as long. This Bread 
 ss no thirker then a piece of Paper, and folds like a Napkin. It is made with a 
 
 Rollins- 
 
i8a 
 
 The Persian Travels 
 
 Book IV. 
 
 Rolling-pin , and bak'd upon Plates of Tinn'd Copper. This Bread is never eat'n, 
 but only ferves for a Table-Cloth to prefcrve what falls from ttie Difhes , and what 
 every man leaves particularly upon his own Plate , which is all wrap'd up in the Lea- 
 ther and giv'n to the poor. Next to that they fet upon one end of the Sofra a fort 
 of moft excellent Bread two foot long , and one broad , then which never was better 
 eat'n in the World. By and by follow'd Boyl'd and Roaft flefh and fifh , with two 
 Chefts of Limons of Maz^andran , and Granates from Schiras. 
 
 After we had made a large Breakfaft , the King was pleas'd to put me upon a dif- 
 courfe of my Travels into the Indies , and ask'd me what Princes I had had accefs to, 
 and how many 1 knew by their faces? Then caufing a Satchel to be brought him , 
 he open'd it himfelf , and fhew'd me feveral portraitures in Miniature. Prefently I 
 knew Sha-Gehan , Aurenge-Zehe , and three of his Sons-, the King of Golconda and 
 Vigour ; Sha-£Jf-Kan,znd two Rajas. Among the reft he fhew'd me a Terfian Lady's 
 Picture and gave it me \ to the end , faid he , that your French Ladies may lee how 
 our Perfian Ladies are clad. After that he fhew'd me the Pictures of two Venetian 
 Curtifans, the one a Widow, and the other a Virgin, with a Parrot upon her 
 hand clad after the Trench mode. Upon which the King putting the queftion to 
 me which I lik'd beft? I reply 'd that fhe pleas'd me bed who had the Parrot upon her fill. 
 And why not the other faid the King ? Becaufe , anfwer'd I , fhe looks like one 
 that had renoune'd the world. Thereupon the King falling into a laughter, and 
 turning toward Father Raphael ; Patri , Patri^ laid he , is it pojjlble that fuch a Lady 
 as this frould have renoune'd the World ? This led us into a difcourfe of beauty , 
 wherein when the King demanded my opinion, I told him that Womens beauty 
 depended very much upon the Cuftom of the Country •, for that in Japan Women 
 with broad faces were moft in requeft •, in China fmall feet were admir'd •, in the Ifles 
 of Borneo and Achen , Women the blacker their Teeth were , the more they were 
 belov'd - , that in the Ifland of Macaffer , to make their Women lovely, they pull 
 out four of their Teeth when they are young , to put in four of Gold in their 
 room :, as I have feen a Captain of Java , who pull'd out four of his fore Teeth , 
 and fet four Diamonds in their place. In fhort , I told His Majefty that in his own 
 Dominions full Eye-brows which meet together were highly efteem'd whereas the 
 Women of France pull them up by the Roots. But which , faid the King, doft thou 
 like beft , the black or the fair? Sir, continu'd I, were I to buy Women as I 
 purchafe Diamonds , Pearls , and Bread , I would always choofe the whiteft. With 
 that the King fell a laughing, and orderd me a brimmer in his own Cup, which 
 was a great Honour indeed. From hence we fell into a more ferious difcourle con- 
 cerning the prefent State of Surope , fpeaking very low , and the reft of the Com- 
 pany retiring all the while out of hearing. Only I obferv'd that there was one Lord 
 middle ag'd , and clad after the Georgian mode , who ftood within five or fix paces 
 behind the King , and that many times as the King drank , he only wet his Lips, 
 and gave the reft to that Lord to drink , which when he had done, he retir'd again 
 to his place. Upon inquiry I found he was the Kings Uncle by the Mother's 
 fide. 
 
 While we were talking of ferious things the Curtifans were bid to retire out of 
 the Hall , which they did , into a Gallery that look'd upon a Garden, where they 
 late , where immediately a Sofra was laid before them cover'd with Fruits and Sweet- 
 meats , and one of their Society continually powr'd out the Wine which they drank 
 round without intermiffion : One would have thought they fhould have been fuddl'd ^ 
 yet when they came in again , no man could perceive they had been drinking. 
 After they had Danc'd a while, they were order'd to retire again , and the King 
 fent for his Mufick , which was both Vocal and lnftruraental \ his Inftrumental 
 Mufick confifted of a kind of a Lute, a Guittar , a Spinet, and two or three Bafe 
 Flutes. He had alfo in the Gallery where the Curtifans were , a large Ebony Cabi- 
 net eight foot high, adorn'd with feveral Silver figures, which prov'd to be an 
 Organ that went alone. It was part of the prefent which the Mnfcovite Ambaffadors 
 made the King, which he order'd to be fet a going, that we might hear it as we 
 fate. No fooner had the Organ ftop'd, but the Curtefans were call'd in again, 
 and the King caus'd the Gold Ladle to go round , commanding that no man fhould 
 leave a drop. When every man had done, the King was pleas'd to ask me which 
 of the Curtifkn's I thought to be handfomeft ? Thereupon I role up, and taking a 
 
 Wax- 
 
Chap.XVII. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 Wax-Candle in my hand, I went and view^ them- all. The King laugh'd, and 
 being very glad to lee my face among theirs , Bring hither , laid he, her to whom 
 thou haft moft a fancy. In obedience to which, I pick'd out the eldeft, as I thought, 
 and led her to'his Majefty , who caus'd us to fit down by him. Then the King 
 pointing to another , And why , faid he , did you not choofe yonder Girl , which is 
 younaer and handfumer ; commanding them both to kii's me one after another, that 
 I might underftand the difference between the Careffes of one and the other. 
 But I reply'd , that were I to choofe again , I would make the fame choice , be- 
 lieving prudence to accompany age. However I befought his Majefty to confider^ 
 that it was not for me to look upon elder or younger , and that though he had 
 giv'n me the liberty to fend the elder home to my Lodging, yet it was not in my 
 pow'r to accept of his favour , in regard I had a Wife , to whom I never had been 
 unfaithful. 
 
 We had thus droll'd together 'till eleven a Clock at night , when the King 
 ftarted another Queftion , Whether any one prcfent knew how to Sing ? It hap- 
 pen'd that there was one Monfieur Daulier there, that Play'd upon the Virginals, and 
 pretended to Sing , who immediately began a Court- Air. But his Voice being a 
 high-pitch'cl Voice, and for that the Ptrfians are altogether for Bales, the King 
 did not like him. When I perceiv'd that, being in a merry vein , though I knew 
 not a Note , yet having a good deep voice, and clear, I fung an old Air that came 
 into my head , which begins , 
 
 Fill all the Howls then , fill y em high , 
 Fill all the Glajfes there , for why 
 Should every Creature drinks but I ? 
 
 The King was fo pleas'd , that he cry'd out , Baricala , BaricaU , as much as to 
 fay , Oh the works of God '. an expreffion of admiration ufual among the Ter- 
 fians. 
 
 By this time it was very late , and the King growing fleepy, gave us leave to de- 
 part j which we did very willingly , having had hard labour for feventeen hours 
 together. 
 
 The next night the King fell a drinking again , and there was in his prefence 
 anty^gi or Pilgrim newly return 'd from Mecca,and confequently oblig'd never to drink 
 Wine after that. While this Agi ftaid , there was one of the ^erfian Lords got 
 lb impertinently fuddl'd, that he twice ftruck the nslgih Turbant from his head, 
 refus'd to drink when the King commanded him , play'd the fool with the Curti- 
 fans when they were dancing , and committed fo many other a&s of folly, that the 
 King incens'd at fuch a continuation of Buffonry, in a great fury, This Rafcal t 
 faid he , has loft all his rejpeft , and thinks he is no more my Slave ; drag him out by 
 the feet , and throw him to the Dogs to eat. Immediately four or five of the King's 
 Officers came and drag'd him out of the Hall by the feet , and every body wonder'd 
 he was not thrown to the Dogs, according to the King's Command - , but 'tis 
 thought that fome of the King's Women beg 'd for him , lb that his punifhment was 
 chang'd. 
 
 There was one of the Cuitifans that gave one of her Companions a box on the 
 ear , not in the King's prefence , but in the Gallerv where they were drinking 
 together. However fhe did not ftrike fo foftly, but that the King heard the noife 
 of the blow. Whereupon he commanded her that had giv'n the blow to be had 
 before the Deroga or Judge of the Town , whom he order'd to expunge her out 
 of the number of Curtifans, and to put another in her place-, that fhe fhould 
 have a hundred T omxns giv'n her , and that the Derosa fhould caufe her to be 
 marry d. 
 
 The next day I waited on the King , and receiv'd thofe Models which he had 
 befpokc me to fend into France. They were the Patterns of certain Drinking- 
 Cups and Trenchers , with the Model of a Dagger drawn with his own hand : for 
 he had learnt to draw of a couple of Butch-men that were in his Service. The 
 
 Dagger 
 
184 The Persian Travels Book IV. 
 
 Dagger was to be Goldfraith work enamel'd. When I had receiv'd his Inftruftions, 
 I took my leave of his Majefty : and then going to wait upon the Naz.ar at his 
 Country-houfe , I took leave ©f him alio , who alfur'd me of his affe&ion upon all 
 occafions , and did me feveral kindneflfes at my departure. 
 
 The End of the Fourth 000^ 
 
 THE 
 
Chap. I 
 
 of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 I 
 
 THE FIFTH BOOK 
 OF THE 
 
 PERSIAN TRAVELS 
 
 O F 
 
 Monsieur TAFERNIER: 
 
 BEING 
 
 A Politick and Hiftorical Defcription of PERSIA: 
 
 With the 
 
 ROADS 
 
 FROM 
 
 ISPAHAN to OK MVS. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 The Genealogy of the Kings of Pcrfia, of the lajl Rate; 
 
 AFter that Tamerlane had extended his Conquefts into sifia, and de- 
 feated the Army of Bajaz^et, whom he took Prifoner, together with 
 his Wife, he return'd into Perfia, where at that time Jiv'd a Cheil^, 
 whofe name was Aidar s a perfon in high reputation for his Holi- 
 nefs. He was a perfon of great wit, and the firft in the dignities of the Law, 
 which gain'd him great authority and belief among the people. He gave great 
 honour to Tamerlane, and ftiew'd Eminent kindneifes to all the Officers of his Ar- 
 my ; in recompence whereof, Tamerlaney who was a generous Prince, and full 
 of gratitude , made a Prefent to the Cbeik^ of a great number of Captives, 
 which he brought along with him out of Tnrky. The Cbeik planted one part 
 of thefe Slaves about Ardevile, and feated the other near his own refidence. 
 Now in regard he afliim'd to himfelf to be defcended in a direct line from Maho- 
 met, he cover'd his head after another manner then all the reft of the Perfians, 
 wearing a kind of flat Bonnet, growing broader and broader to the top, and lb 
 pleighted, as to make twelve Pleighrs of a Ruff, in honour of the twelve Pro- 
 phets. In the middle, a kind of a Pyramid about a fingers length feem'd to rife 
 out of the Bonnet, but was indeed fow'd to it. Such a Bonnet as this the Cbei\ 
 appointed all the Slaves to wear that Tamerlane had giv'n him, and this is that 
 which at this day diftinguifhes their SucceHbrs from the other Perfians. And it 
 is the cuftom, where Kans or Governours of Provinces refide, that all the Sapbies 
 both in the City and the neighbouring parts, meet in the Piaz.z,a every Friday 
 in the afternoon , where they pray to God for the health of the King and 
 the Kan, and for the profperity of the Kingdom; after which the Kan fends 
 
 A a . their.' 
 
1 9 6 The Persian Travels Book V. 
 
 them Victuals to eat, not without fome other effects of his Liberality. 
 
 The Chelks Sons confidering of what a number of Slaves they were Mafters, 
 and that the greateft part of the people, prepoffefs'd in favour of their Father, 
 out of the opinion they had of his Sanctity, took their part ; the more pow- 
 erfully to engage them, fhew'd themfelves liberal to all, and when they found 
 themfelves ftrong enough, revolted againft ALimont King of Perfa, their law- 
 ful Soveraign. After many Skirmifhes, at length they gave him' Battel near to 
 Taurisy wherein Az.imont was defeated, and flainby the hand of Ifmael Suphi, the 
 Cbeikj third Son, who is properly to be accounted the firit King of that Race : 
 I mean of the Race of them that did not embrace the Alcoran, but according 
 to the Interpretation of Haly, Mahomet s Son-in-Law. 
 
 To Ifmael Sophi fucceeded Sha-Tammas his Son, and to Sha-Tammas Sha- 
 Jfmacl the fecond, who reign'dbut a fhort while ; for his cruelties conftrain'd the 
 Nobility of the Country to fet up in his room Mahomet-Coda bende his Bro- 
 ther ; though little skill'd in the affairs of Government or War. Many thought he 
 wasblind,but he was only dim-fightedjthrough the application of a hot Iron to his 
 eyes,by the Command of his unnatural Brother in the beginning of his reign. He was 
 the Father of Sha Abbas t that fucceeded him, who letl'd the affairs of Per fa 
 in a very good condition. 
 
 Sha Abbas the firft, by his Valour and good Conduct gain'd the name of 
 Great. When he came to his Throne, upon the North a^nd Weft fide be found 
 nothing in his power but the City of Casbin ; but afterwards, as he was a per- 
 fonage of great wit as well as courage, partly by policy, and partly by force, 
 he recover'd feveral Provinces to the Welt, and conquer d the Kingdoms of 
 Lar, Ormns, and Candah.tr. 
 
 Of many Sons that Shd-Abi lad, not one furviv'd but only Sophi-Atirz.a, 
 a Prince of great wit, and dext s at his Arms. All the people lov'd him, 
 which made his Father jealous of him , that he waited for his death to 
 afcend the Throne. And that which augmented his jealoulie was, for that one 
 day being a hunting, Sophi-Mirz^a drew the firft arrow at a Boar $ it being a 
 capital crime in Per fa to (hoot before the King. However Sha Abbas for the 
 time conceaPd his dilpleafure, unwilling to fly out in fury againft the Prince, in 
 regard he had no more Sons. But Sophi-Mir&a having had a Son by a Slave, 
 which pleas'd him, Sha Abbas' s joy encreafing as the Child grew, his jea- 
 loufie alfo daily encreas'd againft the Father of the young Prince 5 fo that being no 
 longer able to dilfemble his fear, he caus'd his eyes to be put out. Nay his 
 jealoufie went a great way farther j for he now fear'd the blind Prince, and 
 having therefore refolv'd his death, he commanded a Lord Of the Court to bring 
 him his head. The Lord in an aftonifhment refus'd to obey the King, and be- 
 lought him rather to take away his life, than to conftrain him to embrue his 
 hands in the blood of his Prince. The King offended at him for his refufal, ba- 
 nilh'd him his Court ; and the next day gave the lame command to another 
 Lord, who without any fcruple put it in execution, and brought him the head 
 of his Son in a Bafon of Gold. That object of pity brought him to himfelfj 
 fo that not being able to look upon fo lad a fpedtacje without tears in his 
 eyes 3 upbraiding the villany of the Lord, he expelPd him from his fight, 
 forbad him his prefence for ever, and fequefterd all his eftate, only allowing 
 him a Mamoudi, or nine French Sous aday. The other Lord, who had fo ge- 
 neroufly refus'd to aid him in fo bloody an aft, the King recall'd from Exile, 
 and beftow'd upon him one of the belt Governments of the Empire. 
 
 Ever fince that time all the Male Children of the Blood Royal are fhut up 
 in the Womens Haram, where they are bred up in ignorance, having only two 
 or three Eunuchs to teach them to write and read, and to keep them company 
 in their recreations, whether it be in mooting with a Bow, or riding about the 
 Gardens upon an Afs ; for they never allow 'em a Horle : befides that all that time 
 they are never permitted to fee the people. In this manner it was that Sha 
 Abbas bred up his little Grandfon, many days cauling him to take Opium to 
 render him more ftupid. So that when he came to the Throne, after his Grand- 
 fathers death, the Phyfiicians thought it convenient that he fhould drink Wine, 
 to reftore his natural heat, and renew his vigor. Sha Abbas reign'd forty years, 
 
 and 
 
Chap. I of Monfieur Taverniel 
 
 and dy'd at the end of the year 1628. Before he dy'd, he gave command, that 
 hefhould be bury'd in fome place unknown to all the world ; and that' they 
 fhould fet his Grandchild upon his Throne, and give him the name of Sha- 
 Sefi. 
 
 So foon as Sha Abbas' 's eyes were clos'd, the General of the Horfe, and the 
 chief Captain of the Harquebuffes, with whom the Commands were left, rode 
 in all haite to Ifpahan, and coming to the Palace, defir'd to (peak with the Mo- 
 ther of the Child. The Mother was in a fad affright, believing that they came 
 to put the young Prince to death. But when they had diflipated her fears, 
 and that (he underftood that they came to fet him upon the Throne bv the 
 command of his Grandfather, (he embrac'd the young Prince, and returned him 
 into the hands of the Eunuchs. When he was come out of the Haram, the two 
 Lords, attended by feveral others, faluted him King, and acknowledge him for 
 their Sovereign. At the fame time they took off his Clothes and tore them, 
 which in Perfia is a mark of mourning ; and according to cuftom, put him on 
 another plain Garment, which he wore till midnight. Then they difrob'd him 
 again, and put him on his Royal Robes, and fet him upon the Throne, where 
 all the Lords came and did him homage, and the next day he was acknowledged 
 by all- the Acclamations of the people. For when the Royal Habit is put upon 
 the new King, the Drums. Trumpets, Timbrels, Hautboys, and other Inftru- 
 menrs, m ke a din in a peculiar place of the Mcydun appointed for that purpo(e. 
 Which is the Signal to give notice to the people to meet the next morning, to 
 acknowledg the new King. Sha-Sefi for many years was a Novice in the art 
 of Government. But time opening his eyes, the firft remarkable thing which 
 he did, bei ; at Casbra, was to cut off the head of AU-KouL-Kan, that great 
 Captain who had conquer'd the Kingdoms of Lar and Ormus for Sha Abbas j 
 and the heads of three of his Sons. After that, returning to Ifpahan, he cut 
 off the heads of feven of the principal Lords of his Court ; and by little and 
 little took the Government into his own hands. Of thofe Lords whomfam-Kan 
 was the chi. f. 
 
 For 'tis thought that Sha Abbas had lefc a private order with Mrrz.a Take, 
 and the Dowager Stthamfs, to rid themfelves of thofe Lords fo (bon as Sha- 
 Sefi mould be fetl'd in his Throne, and that they had plac'd Governors in all places 
 where in the King might confide. Thefe Lords having fmoak'd the private order of 
 Sha-Abbas, and believing that the time of execution drew near, prevented the 
 Athemadoalet Mirz^a Take for meeting one morning before the Palace-door, 
 they kill'd the Porter, and entring his Bed-Chamber, ftab'd him before he could 
 rife. After this execution, they went to the King, whom Jani-Kan boldly told, 
 that they had (lain Mir^a Take. The King at that time diflembling his anger at fo 
 bold an enterprize, and an attempt upon the Royal Authority, anfwer'd him, 
 that he had done very well, and that he had prevented thole orders which he 
 intended to have giv'n him. The Sultanefs his Mother then govern'd the King- 
 dom, together with the Athemadoulet, from whom (hereceiv'd four hundred 
 Ducats in Gold every day for her little pleafures ; and held a private Coun- 
 cil with him in her Haram, where he had free admilfion, a? being cue clofe. In 
 this Council it was, that the(e two perfons overthrew in the night whatever the 
 Lords concluded in the day ; chang'd the Kings'mind, and over-rul'd his thoughts 
 as they pleas'd themfelves, by vertue of that power which they had over him. 
 Eight or nine days after, as thefe Lords were fitting in Council with the King, 
 an Eunuch enter d, which was the fignal for the King to get out of the way j 
 and as foon as the King was gone, the Chamber was filPd with Eunuchs, that 
 ruming in immediately fell upon Jani-KanzvAhxs Accomplices, and cut off their 
 heads. Their heads and bodies were immediately expos'd to the view of the 
 people in the Mejdan ; and for that it is not the cuftom in Perfia to take any 
 cognizance of what the King does, the moft part of the people, fpurning the 
 heads with their feet, cry'd one to another, See the heads of thofe Dogs that have 
 difubeyd the will of the King. 
 
 I told ye, that Mirz.a Take was clean cut ; which occafions a particular ftory : 
 He was Governour of Gmlan in the Reign of Sha Abbas, and having abus'd one 
 of his Pages, the young Ladd ftole fecretly to Ifpahan > and made his com- 
 
 A a 2 plain* 
 
The Persian Travels Book V. 
 
 plaint to the King; who having heard it, immediately lent him to be Go- 
 vernour of GuiUn , in the place trf? ftfir&a Take, and order'd him to fend 
 him his head by one of the Officers., which he difpatch'd along with him. The 
 King alfo, in regard the Page was very young, appointed him a perfon able 
 to advife him in his affairs. In the mean while MivL* Take miffing his Page, 
 and making no queftion but he was gone to make his complaint to the King, 
 which would of neceffity prove his ruin, if not prevented; he refolv'd to di- 
 vert the irorm by punifhing himfelf, and caus'd that part to be cut clean off 
 that committed the crime. At the fame time, and in that bad condition where- 
 in he then was, he caus'd himfelf to be put into a Litter c and taking his Chi- 
 rurgeon along with him, he gets to Ifpabm by another way which was not 
 ufually travel'd, for fear of meeting the Page, and caufing himfelf to be car- 
 ry'd into the Palace in that pitiful and languif: ing eftate, defir'd to /peak with 
 the King, who was furpriz'd at his arrival. But the Kan having prefented 
 him in a Plate of Gold with the undoubted marks of his repentance, befought 
 his Majefties pardon. W hereupon the King confidering the rigor and extraor- 
 dinary punifhment which he had inflicted upon himfelf lent him back to his Govern- 
 ment, and recall'd the Page, whom he otherways gratifi'd. And this was the 
 man whom Sba Abbas upon his Death- bed order'd that Sha-Sefi mould make 
 Athemadonlet , as being the titteft for the employment of any perfon in his 
 Kingdom. 
 
 Sha-Sefi not content to have rid himfelf of the Lords that had prefiim'd to 
 invade his Authority, was refolv'd to have the head of Ali-mrdan-Kan, Go- 
 vernour of Cai.dahar ; of whom he was jealous, by reafbn of his vaft riches, his 
 Plate being all Gold, and his Houfe as magnificently furnifh'd as the Kings. But 
 the King could not bring about his defign ; for the Kan being prefs't to come 
 to Court and believing it was only to take away his head, to free himfelf from 
 the danger, deliver'd Candahar to the Great Mogul, by whom he was kindly 
 entertained, and highly carels'd. Neither was AU-merdan-Karis wealth of his 
 own getting, but left him by inheritance, as being descended from the ancient 
 Kings of Candahar., who were originally Tartars. Now whatever favours or ad- 
 vancement the Great Alogul beftow'd upon AL-merdan-Kan, the fame did the 
 Ferfian King beftow upon his two Sons ; whereas all the world believ'd, that 
 after filch a piece of Treafon committed by their Father, the King would have 
 ript up their bellies. This piece of policy of Sha-Sefi was very advantageous 
 to Sh a- Abbas the fecond, when he beficg'd Candahar with fifty thoufand men. 
 For the greateft part of the Moguls Army being compos'd of Ferjians, they 
 remembring how kindly Sha-Sefi had bsM the two Sons of Ali-merdan- Kan, 
 made little refinance againft: the King of Perfia, who enter'd Candahar in a fmall 
 time. The Great Mogul troubfd at the lofs, ask'd Ah-merdan-ICan, by what 
 means he might retake Candahar ; who prefently made anfwer, that it would 
 be very eafie, if he could find fuch another Traytor as he had been. 
 
 But to return to Sha-Sefi 5 his Reign was very violent, of which I will give 
 you this Example : 
 
 One day the King returning from the Kclor.ters Houfe in Zulpha, having 
 drank to excefs, commanded that the Sultamfs mould come to him ; who un- 
 derftanding that he was in di ink, made no great hafte, fo that the King in the 
 mean time fell afleep. But waking again foon after, and not feeing the Queen 
 he calPd for her a fecond time; of which when the had notice, (he came im- 
 mediately. When (he came into the Chamber, me perceiv'd the King afleep, 
 and in expectation of his waking, hid her felf in a Nich behind the Hangings $ 
 where generally the Mattreffes and Coverlets are laid by. The King waking, 
 and not yet perceiving the Sultanefs, in a great chafe demanded why fhe was 
 not yet come. The Queen-Mother, who was a Georgian Slave, and mortally 
 hated the young Sultanefs, who was the Daughter of the King of Georgia i and 
 therefore difdain'd by her, took an occafion to put her out of the Kings fa- 
 vour ; and having firft fpok'n ill of her, made a fign to the King to let him 
 underifand that the young Queen was hid in fuch a Nich. Upon that the King 
 rifing in a great fury, ftab'd the poor Princefs with his Dagger four or five times 
 in the belly, and hardly knowing what he had done, went to bed again. The 
 
 next 
 
Chap. I. of Monfieor Tavernier. .199 
 
 next day, forgetful of the fad, he call'd for the Queen ; but when thev told 
 him what had happen'd, he began to be deeply feniible of his error, and 16r- 
 row'd exceflively 5 and at the fame time fent an exprels order through his Ter- 
 ritories, that no man mould drink Wine, and that the Governours mould break 
 all the Wine-VefTels wherever they found any, and (pill the Wine. But this 
 order did not laft above a year. 
 
 During the Reign of Sha-Ssfi, the Kan of Erivan fcnr bim a Colt, which 
 I law, which was begot by a Mule. Not long after the King dy'd of a Surfer, with 
 excels of drink ing, after he had reign'd fourteen years. 
 
 Sha Abbas the fecond was let upon the Throne at Casuin, with the ufual 
 Ceremonies, at the end of the year 1642, and made his entry into Ifpahan in 
 the beginning of the year following. Upon the day of the Solemnity all the 
 Citizens were order'd to be in Arms, and to march out of the City, where they 
 were hTd off upon each fide of the Road. In the fame manner were all the 
 ftanding Infantry and Cavalry rang'd for five Leagues together. All the Road 
 for two Leagues together without the City was cover'd with Tifllies of Gold 
 and Silver, with Carpets of Silk, and other rich Stuffs •, all which colts the King 
 nothing. For the Sha- Bander, who is like our Mayor, takes care to tax every 
 one what he is to furnilh toward that Solemnity. The Englijh and Hollanders 
 wentalfo forth to meet the King ; among whom I was one. W hen we came near 
 the King, fani-Kan,Genen\ of the Cavalry, gave the King notice who we were. 
 Whereupon we all alighted, and the King holding his Leg ftretcht out of his 
 Stirrup, we all kifs'd his Boot. When he came where the way began to be 
 fpread with rich Carpets, he found the Grand Mufti and the Grand Cadi, at- 
 tended by a great number of Monllahs, who made a Prayer after their man- 
 ner. Prayers being ended, the King rode on, the Atheniadoulet being on the 
 left hand, which is the molt honourable, and the General of the Cavalry on the 
 right, yet not even with him, but lb as that their Horles heads reach'd to the 
 Crupper of his. There was no perfon but the King that rode over the TiiTue, 
 that Honour belonging to him alone ; nor is the way fpread above the breadth 
 of the Stuff ; and as loon as the King is pafs'd over it, the people fall to la-am- 
 bling, and carry away every one what they can get for themfelves. 
 
 About a quarter of a League from Ifpaban is a Garden, with a Great Room 
 over the Gate, where the King, made a halt, thinking to have made his Entry 
 into the City. But an Aftrologer came to him, and told him, that the hour 
 was paft, and that he muft tarry three days before the hour would prove pro- 
 pitious again. So that he was conftrain'd to betake himlclf to the Garden of He- 
 7~nrdgerib till the time came ; whither the Nobility alio were all forc'd to come be- 
 times in the morning, and to ftay till the evening. The day that the King 
 made his Entry, the way from the Garden to the City was alio fpread with 
 Carpets. For three days together the Fire- works play'd in the Meydan 5 and 
 round the Piaz.z.a from top to bottom were lights hung out ; and in the prin- 
 cipal Inns, the richeft Merchants had adorn'd the Doors and Windows of their 
 Chambers, according to the Mode of the Country ; and I believe it colt the 
 Chief of the Holland Company, above nine hundred Tomans. 
 
 In the year 1643, came the Prince of the Vsbeckj in perlbn to dclire aid of 
 Sha Abbas againlt his Children, who had caus'd his own Subjects to rebel and 
 make war againft him. His eldeft Son firft took Arms, and getting the advan- 
 tage of a Battel, the other Brother treacheroufly took part with him j which 
 nothing difmay'd the Father, to whom the chief of the Nobility ftill adher'd. 
 Toward the end of the year 1642, the Prince loft another Battel and his left 
 eye, which was fhot thorough with an Arrow ; which conftrain'd him, fo foon 
 as he was cur'd of his wound, to come and crave fuccour from the King of 
 Perfia ; which he eafily obtain'd. Sha Abbas deligning to receive him honou- 
 rably lent above ten thoufand Horfe as far as Cajhan, which is four days ;out- 
 ney from Ifpahan, and five or fix thoufand Foot two davs journey from thence 
 to meet him. Every day he was attended by different Officers. Every day they 
 fet him up a new Tent, and fpread new Carpets ; and every day chang'd the 
 twelve Horfes that were led before him, whofe furniture was all over cover'd 
 with Jewels. For a League ai*d a half from the City the way was fpread with 
 
200 The Persian Travels Book V. 
 
 all forts of Silk Stuifs to the very Palace ; and the King of Per/ia went him- 
 felf to meet him, as far as where the Stuffs were begun to be laid. Though 
 Sha Abbas was very young, yet he was refolv'd to fhew, that he look'd upon 
 himfelf as a potent King in the peaceable pofTeflion of his own Dominions, and 
 that he went to meet a dethron'd Prince, that came to defire his Aid. For fo foon 
 as he perceiv'd the King of the Tartars, he made a {hew of (purring on his 
 Horfe 5 and being come up to his Horfes head, he put his foot out of the Stir- 
 rup, as if he intended to have alighted, but did not. The Tartarian Prince, as 
 old as he was, prefently leap't to the ground from his Saddle to falute the 
 Perfan King, who return'd him fome flight Compliments about his having 
 alighted ; at which time the Athemaduulct and other Lords remounting him, the 
 two Kings rode together upon the Silks, the King of Perfia giving the left hand 
 to the Tartar. The King of Per fa very geheroufly lent him a confiderable 
 ailiftance of ijooo Horfe, and 8000 Foot, and fixty thoufand Tomans in Mo- 
 ney. The Tartar in Exchange gave him one of his Provinces bordering upon 
 Perfit, which yeilded him a very good Revenue, in regard the Inhabitants were 
 all Shepherds, or Turcomans,- that breed an infinite number of Cattel, where- 
 in the wealth of that Province coniiits. 
 
 While he reign'd, he had a prefent made him from the Governour of Schiras, 
 of a wild Afs, whole Skin was as red as Scarlet, having a Horn growing out 
 of his forehead about a foot long. 
 
 Sha Abbas reign'd about twenty-four years, and dy'd at Tehz.on, of an in- 
 flammation in his throat, which came by exceffive drinking. His body by his 
 own order was buri'd at Kour. So foon as he was dead, the Lords that were 
 about him, fent advice of his death to the Prince that now reigns, by the 7c- 
 figi-Bafoa, who is General of the Mufqueteers, and Mirx.a Bay ad. the Cheif of 
 the Aftrologers. So foon as they came to the door of the Haram, they de- 
 fied 1 fpeak with the Mother and the Son ; who believM them come upon 
 fome difmal defign. But they prefently confirmed them to the contrary. For as 
 foon as the Prince came forth of the Haram, they fell at his feet, and faluted 
 him King, declaring the death of his Father. Whereupon the Prince imme- 
 diately toie his Garment according to the cuftom. And indeed they have ano- 
 ther cuftom, that as foon as the new Prince comes after much entreaty out 
 of the Haram, he throws himfelf to the ground, at the door of the Haram, 
 and then rifing and fitting upon his heels, one of the Lords that are fent, girds 
 the Scimiter about his wafte, faying time words, May it pleafe your Majefty to 
 remember your Slave, that had the Honour to g:rd you with this Scimiter. Which 
 done, he goes and fets the Trumpets a founding, and the Drums beating, where- 
 upon all the people in the morning come running to the Gate of the Palace, 
 crying out, Paijha Salamalcl^, I falute thee Emperor. Which is all the Cere- 
 mony us'd when any King of Per fa, afcends the Throne. For I never faw any 
 Crown fet upon the head either of Sha Abbas or Sha Sefi. Only in Per fa they 
 gird on the Scimiter, as in Turky they put on the Bonnet of the Sophfs, which 
 is very richly fet with Jewels, but has not the leaft refemblance of a Crown. 
 The fame Ceremony of girding on the Scimiter, is us'd to the Mogul, the Kings 
 oiVifapour and Golconda ; and they alio put the Bonnet upon their heads, which is 
 fet with the richeft Jewels in the pofteffion of thofe great Monarchs. 
 
 SharrSef the fecond, fome time after his coming to the Throne, fell dange- 
 roufly fick, not having ever enjoy 'd a perfect health before. Now it is the cuftom, 
 in thofe Countries, that upon fuch an occafion all the Lords of the Court, and 
 Governors of Provinces, give a mm of money, according to their willingneis and 
 liberality. This fum is ufually in Gold, which they put into a Bafon very richly 
 fet with pretious Stones, and bear it three times over the Kings head, pro- 
 nouncing thele words, Patjh.i Bajhena Olfon, This money is faenfe'd for the health 
 of the Kings head. If the King recover all that money is giv'n to the poor, to 
 which the King and his Haram add very liberally. But if the King dies, the 
 money is put into the Treafury, and the poor have nothing. The twentieth of 
 Augufi 1667, was tne critical day of his diftemper, and every one thought he 
 would have dy'd. Upon which all the Grandees of the Court feeing him in that 
 condition, went to the Alofjuee call'd Babaron, which is without the City, to 
 
 pray 
 
Chap. I. of Monfieur Taver n Tek. •■ ' 2 o 
 
 pray for his health, and altogether gave near a thoufand Tomans to the poor. 
 The next day they commanded the Chriltian Armenians to pray for the reco- 
 very of the King. Whereupon as well the Ecclefiafticks as the Laity went to 
 their prayers upon the fide of the River which is between I [pah an and Zulpha. 
 They alfo fent their Kelonter, with fifty Tomans in Gold, to bear over the Kings 
 head ; though the Armenians pronounce not the lame words as the Perfians 
 faying only., Bcrai tc Sadduk^> deft in d for Alms. 
 
 Thus the danger being over in a few days, they made it their bufinefs to re- 
 cover him to a perfect habit of health ; but in regard the King continu'd in 
 a Janguifhing condition, and for that the Phyficians could not difcover the caufe 
 of the diftemper; the King began to beleive that it proceeded from the igno- 
 rance of the Phyficians ; for which reafon fome of them had receiv'd none of the 
 belt entertainment already. At length it came into the thoughts of fome others 
 of the Phyficians, who were afraid for themfelves, that in regard Pcrfia was 
 thus doubly afflicted, with Famine and the Sicknefs of the King , both at one 
 time/it mult of neceffity be the Aftrologers fault, that mifs'd the favourable 
 hour when the King fhould have afcended the Throne. Thus being troubl'd at 
 their dilgrace, pretending to have no lefs skill in future knowledg than the 
 Aftrologers, who had not chos'n a true time for the King to afcend the Throne 
 they concluded that for the perfect recovery of his health, and the reftoring of 
 plenty to the Nation, it was necefiary to renew the Ceremony at a lucky hour, 
 and to change his. name. This propofition pleas'd the King and his Council. 
 The Phyficians and Aftrologers joining together, obferv'd the firft unlucky day, 
 which would certainly be follow'd by another that would prove fortunate. Now 
 there being among the Games, fome that pretend themlelves defcended from 
 the Ruftansy who were ancient Kings of Perjia and Panhia, that very morning 
 one of thofe Games fetting himfelf upon the Throne, with his back againlt a 
 wooden Figure which reprefented him to the life, all the Grandees of the Court 
 came and did him homage as their King, as he had order'd them to do. This 
 action lafted till the favourable hour was come, which happen'd a little before 
 Sun-fet. Then it was that an Officer of the Court came behind and cut off the 
 head of the wooden Figure, while the Game, immediately took his heels and 
 fled. Prefently upon that the King appear'd in the Hall, upon whole head when 
 they had put the Bonnet of Sophi } and re-girt him with the Scimitar, he afcend- 
 ed the Throne, and took the name of Soliman. He was forc'd to act this Co- 
 medy to fatisfie the Law, which conrriv'd that he fhould change his Name, 
 and take a new pofieffion of his Throne, by ejecting a Ufurper that had wrong- 
 fully claim'd it. For which reafon the Game was let up as Pretender, as laying 
 claim to the ancient Lineage of the Perfian Kings, and being of a different 
 Religion. From that time the King recovering , and the Famine decreafing/ 
 the Phyficians were in great repute, and the Altrologers were caft out of fa- 
 vour, except two or three of the molt skilful. 
 
 Sha-Soliman before his coming to the Crown, had convers'd with none but 
 Women and black Eunuchs j from whom he could not learn the art of Ruling. 
 At prefent he only divertizes himfelf with his Wives in going a hunting, very 
 rarely troubling himfelf with bufinefs, but relying wholly upon his Minilters of 
 State. He will not be feen for ten or twelve days together ; ail which time* 
 there are no Petitions to be preferr'd, nor Complaints to be made. 
 
 CH AJ*. 
 
202 
 
 The Persian Travels 
 
 Book V. 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Of certain particular Actions 'which denote the Vertucs and Vices 
 of the Kings of Pcrfia , from Sha Abbas the fir ft to Sha-Soliman 
 the prefent King. And fir ft of Sha-Abbas the Great. 
 
 SHa-Abbas, who was a paffionate Lover of Honour, fought all ways ima- 
 ginable to furnifh his Empire with the fupports of wealth and good 
 Government. He would not fuffer any Indian or Banian to live as a Trader in 
 his Dominions ; they having crept in fince under the Reigns of Sha-Sefi the firft, 
 and Sha-Abbas the fecond, who came very young to the Throne. Neither had 
 Sha-Abbas any reafon to permit them to trade in his Kingdom ; for they are 
 worfe Ufurers than the fews, and feldom it happens, but that they have all the 
 Money in the Nation, which they take up at nine or ten in the hundred , and let 
 out again upon pawns at two and a half per Cent, a month. From fuch devou- 
 ring Pefts and Vipers as thefe, Sha-Abbas thought it but reafonable to preferve 
 his people j fo that before thefe Vermin crept into Perfia, the Money was all 
 in the hands of the Armenians of Zulpha. And indeed thole Banians have beeti 
 the ruin of many poor people, of which I will only bring one example among 
 many. 
 
 I was at Ifpahan in the year 1662, when one of thofe Banians lent fix or 
 feven Tomans per Cent, a month to a poor Per ft an, who had utter'd feveral 
 pieces of Linnen upon the place. Thofe Banians will have their intereft paid 
 every month; but the Perfian had dipt three or four, having no Money to 
 pay , in regard his Debtor could not pay him. Thereupon the Banian dunn'd 
 him perpetually, and threaten'd to have him drub'd till he pay'd it, according 
 to the Perfian cuftom. The Mother of the Perftan troubl'd to fee her Son haunt- 
 ed in that manner, one morning as he was going to the Mejdan, bid him, if 
 he met the Banian, that he mould be fure to bring him home, and fhe would 
 pay him his intereft, and fome of the principal, with fome Money that fhe had 
 fav'd of her own. Toward evening the Banian met his Debtor, whom he rea- 
 dily follow'd home upon promife of payment. The Mother dehYd him to fet 
 upon the Courfi, which is the place where they make their fires, it being cold 
 fhowy weather, and fet fruits before him to eat. While he thus eat and warm'd 
 himfelf, night came on apace, and the woman putting him in hopes of payment, 
 fpun out the time fo long, that the Banian not being unaccuftom'd to cold wea- 
 ther and late hours, was eafily perfwaded to ftay all night at the Perfians Houfe. 
 When 'twas time to go to bed, the Banian threw himfelf upon one Quilt, and 
 the Perftan upon another. About two hours after midnight, the Mother comes 
 fbftly into the Chamber , with a fharp Razor in her hand, intending to have 
 cut off the Banians head j but unfortunately miftaking, kill'd her own Son in- 
 ftead of the Banian. The Banian having had fuch an efcape, ftole cunningly out 
 of the Houfe, and declaring the mnrther to the Divan-beque\ or the Chief Juftice, 
 He caus'd the woman to be apprehended, and brought before him ; who con- 
 feffing the fait, he commanded her to be ty'd to the tail of a young Mule, 
 and to be dragg'd about the City till the Mule had kick'd her to death. 
 
 In the year 1667, eight or ten days before I departed from Ifpahan, there 
 was a Banian found buri'd in a Street near the Capuchins houfe ; they had cut 
 offhis arms and legs, and fo put him into the hole ; but buri'd him fo fhallow that 
 the Dogs fcrap'd away the Earth, and difcover'd him ; but who committed 
 the fact, was not then known. 
 
 Sha Abba t s was not only willing that all the trade mould be in the hands of 
 his Subjects, to make profit thereby, and to draw the Money into his King- 
 dom, but he would not fuffer it to be tranfported when it was brought in. 
 He faw that the Pilgrimages of his Subjects to Mecca, their Expences and Pre- 
 fents carry'd out abundance of his Ducats of Gold ; therefore more politick than 
 religious, he ftrove to hinder thofe Pilgrimages as much as in him lay ; ard 
 
 going 
 
J . p. IT. of Mortfieuf Tavernier. 203 
 
 going hmlfelf in perfon to Mejhed in Pilgrimage to the Tomb of Iman-rez. al- 
 ready fpoken of, over which one of the Legs of Mahotnets Camel hangs as a 
 a great Relict j and upon his return relating and giving out ftrange Miracles 
 of Imau-rez,, on purpofe to divert his Subjects from going to Mecca. 
 
 Among the reft of the cunning knacks that Sha-Abbas made ufe of, to know- 
 how fquares went in his Kingdom, without trufting too much to his Minifters, 
 he oft'n difguis'd himfelf, and went about the City like an ordinary inhabi- 
 tant, under pretence of buying and felling, making it his bufinefs to ditcover 
 whether Merchants us'd falfe weights or meafures or no. To this intent one evening 
 going out of his Palacein the habit of a Countryman, he went to a Bakers to buy a 
 Man of Bread, and thence to a Cook to buy a Man of Roft-meat, ( a Man 
 is fix Pound, fixteen Ounces to the Pound ). The King having bought his Bar- 
 gains return'd to Court, where he caus'd the AthemadouUt to weigh both 
 the Bread and the Meat exadly. He found the Bread to want fifty-feveh 
 Drams, and the Meat forty-three. The King feeing that, fell into a great chafe 
 againft three or four of them that were about him, whofe bufinefs it was to 
 look after thof things ; but efpecially againft the Governour of the City, whole 
 Belly he had caus'd to have been ript up, but for the interceffion of certain 
 Lords. Befides the reproaches that he threw upon them for being fo 
 negligent in their Employments; and for their little affection to the publick 
 good, he laid before them the injuftice of falfe weights j and how fadly the 
 cheat fell upon poor men, who having great Families, and thinking to give 
 them eight hundred Drams of Bread, by that fraud depriv'd them of a hun- 
 dred and forty three. Then turning to the Lords that were prefenr, he de- 
 manded of them, what fort of juftice ought to be done thofe people ? When 
 none of them daring to open their mouths, while he was in thatpaflion, he com- 
 manded a great Oven to be made in the Piaz.z,a, together with a Spit long 
 enough to roaft a man; and that the Oven mould be heated all night, and 
 that they fhould make another fire to be kindPd hard by the Oven. The next 
 morning the King caus'd the Baker and the Cook to be apprehended, and to 
 be led quite thorough the City, with two men going before them, who cry'd 
 to the people, We are going to put the Baker into a red hot Oven made iri 
 the Piaz.z.a t where he is to be bak'd alive, for having utter'd Bread by falfe 
 weights ; and the Cook is to be roafted alive, for having fold meat by falfe 
 weights. Thus thofe two men ferv'd for an example not only to Ifpahari 3 
 but to all the Kingdom, where every one dreaded the fevere juftice of Sha-* 
 Abbas. 
 
 Bb CHAP. 
 
 v 
 
204. The Per s i a n Travels Book V, 
 
 c K a p. w. 
 
 Of wh.it fell out mofl memorable m the Reign of Sha-Sefi the firff ; 
 and particularly of the death of Iman-K.oaii-N.an, and his three 
 Soils. 
 
 IMan-Kouli-Kan was the l^ft Kan of Scbiras , whole Government extended 
 over the Province of Lar, to the Golf of Perfia, under the Reign of Sha- 
 Abbas ; thefe Kans being the raoft potent in all Perfa. lman-Kouli- 
 Kan was he who in the Reign of Sha-Abbas conquer'd the greateft part of the 
 Kingdom of Lar, and the Kingdom of Ormus, with all the Coalt of the Per- 
 Jian Golf, from Cape fafqttes to Batfara. 
 
 This lman-Kouli-Kan was prodigiouffy rich, belov'd and refpected by all the 
 world } befides he was wonderfully magnificent, his expences almoft equalling 
 the Kings ; which occafion'd Sha-Abbas, who difcours'd with him one day parti- 
 cularly upon that Subject, to tell him, that he defir'd him to fpend every day 
 one Mamoudy lefs than he, that there might be fome ditference between the 
 expences of a King and a Kan. 
 
 The noble qualities of this lman-Kouli-Kan had gain'd the affections of the 
 people ; for he was magnificent and liberal ; highly recompene'd brave Soldiers 
 and Students ; he lov'd Strangers, and had a particular care to cherim Arts 
 and Sciences. To which purpole he built a fair Colledg at Scbiras, for the in- 
 ftruction of Youth ; and fevcral Inns, as well in the City as upon the Road, 
 for the benefit of Travellers. He caus'd iMountains to be cut thorough to fhor- 
 ten the way; and join'd others by Bridges, of fuch an adventurous Structure, 
 that it is hard to conjecture how fuch prodigious Arches could be made over 
 fuch vaft Precipices and Torrents. 
 
 Now in regard lman-Kouli-Kan was ftrick'n in years, he feldom went to 
 Court, chufing rather to continue in his Government, where he was belov'd and 
 refpected by all men. But the King being young, and the Government of the 
 Kingdom in the hands of the Qneen-Mother and the Athemadoukt, who were 
 extreamly jealous of the Kan, thole two perfons link'd together in intereft for 
 the maintenance of the Kings Authority and their own, fretted to lee the 
 Kan's Court almoft as fplendid as the Kings ; and that nothing of the Reve- 1 
 nue of Schiras, Lar, Ormus, or any part a$ the Perfian Golf came to the Kings * 
 Coffers, as being folely at the difpolaJ of the Kan ; but that on the contrary, 
 the King was oblig'd to fend him Money -to pay the Army. But that which 
 troubled the Queen- Mother moft of all, -was the pretention of the Kan's eldelt 
 Son to the Crown, whowas alfo a perlbn of a daring and ambitious courage. 
 For the Kings of Perfia efteem it a great Honour to beftow upon any Kan or 
 great Lord, one of their Wives out of their Royal Haram ; and Sha-Abbas 
 had given to lman-Kouli-Kan one of his own proper Wives, whom he lov'd 
 extreamly. 'Tis thought that when fhe left the Haram {he was three months 
 gone with Child by Sha-Abbas, for fomewhat above fix months after fhe was 
 bedded by the Kan, fhe lay- in of a Son, of which the King was the reputed: 
 Father, and who being born before Sha-^Sefi, pretended a right before him to 
 the Throne. By vertue of this claim, contrary to the will of Sha-Abbas in 
 favour of Sha-Sefi, this ambitious Lord, who only pafs'd for the Kan's eldelt 
 Son, vehemently follicited his Father to feize upon Sha-Sefi, and to make him^ 
 felf King, or at leaft to op'n a way for him to the Throne. Now it happen'd ff 
 that one day being a hunting with the young King near Schiras, the impatient 
 young Lord coming to his Father ; Sir, faid he, lee now the opportunity that 
 offers you the Throne ; for I will go prefently and bring you Sha-Seffs head. 
 But the Kan holding his Son by the Arm, told him, that he would never con- 
 lent to the death of his King; protefting to him, rather to dye a thouland 
 deaths ; adding withall, that it was the Kings will to appoint Sha-Sefi to fuc- 
 ceed him, as being the Son of his Son, and confequently his lawful Heir; that 
 
 the 
 
Chap. m. 
 
 of Morifieur Tavernier. 
 
 the young Prince was recommended to his care, and in regard he had pro- 
 mis'd and fworn, he was fb far from falfifying his truft, that he would main- 
 tain his pofleflion to the lart gafp. 
 
 This generous refolution of the Kan broke the young Lords deflgn upon 
 the Kings perfon. However the Sultanefs being not ignorant of the train that 
 was laid for the young King, and againft the repofe of the Kingdom, thought 
 it her wifeft way to prevent the blow, and to rid her felf of fuch perfons as 
 had confpir'd the death of the King. The Kan's two other Sons took part with 
 him they call'd their elder Brother. And as for the Kan himfelf, though he 
 were upright in his Loyalty, yet his power, his wealth, his reputation among 
 the Souldiery, and the atfeftion that the people bare him, concurred together not 
 only to render him fufpected, but guilty. The Sultanefs and the Athemadoulet 
 took counfel together, which way to divert the ftorm that threaten'd the Kings 
 head, to whom they reprefented, that he was not fafe in his own perfon fo 
 long as Jman-Kodi-Kan and his three eldeft Sons liv'd. The King eafily be- 
 liev'd them, and refolv'd to be rid both of Father and Sons together ; but 
 the difficulty was to get 'em to Court, wherein opportunity it felf affifted! 
 them. For at that time Amurath the Great Twi\ at the head of a vaft Ar- 
 my, was already advanc'd within the Confines of Perfia, had rak'n Erivan, and 
 had ruin'd Tauris. Upon the fir ft news of this march, the King fends for all 
 the Kans and Governours to attend his perfon, with all the Forces under their 
 command. Among the reft, the Kan of Schiras receiv'd the fame orders; who: 
 thereupon afiembl'd all his Troops, both Horfe and Foot, who were not only 
 the moft numerous, but the beft difciplin'd and ftouteit Souldiers of all Per fa. 
 As he was upon his march to Casbin with his three Sons, the eldeft having 
 well confiderM of affairs ; Sir, faid he, We are making haft to the King y to the 
 end our heads may the fooner fail at our feet. Perhaps my Son, reply'd the Kan, 
 thou maifi Jpcak. f ^ e tri *th ; but to this day I never was a Rebel againfl the King y 
 I have done whatever he commanded , and whatever may happ'n I will obey him 
 fill death. The Kan arriving at Casbin, was by the King welcom'd with great de- 
 monftrations of joy. Some days after, he took a general Mufter, and then 
 made a great Feaft which lafted three days, to which all the great Lords and 
 Kans that were at Casbin were call'd. The three Sons of Iman-Rouli-Kan were 
 of the number ; but the Father excusM himfelf, as well by reafbn of his age, 
 as alfo reprefenting to his Majefty, that it better befitted him to Employ his 
 time in taking care of his affaires, and in praying for' his Majefty 5 however 
 if.it were his Majefties exprefs command, he would not fail to obey ; to which 
 the King return'd for anfwer, that thr.-/f*» /of Schiras was at his liberty to do 
 as he thought fit. The third day of the Feaft the King rofe from his Seat, 
 and going out of the Hall, without -fpeaking a word to any perfon, went into 
 a Room hard by. Half an hour after, three fturdy refolute Fellows with fome 
 other Ragamuffin attendants, entring the Hall with their Scimeters drawn, feiz'd 
 upon the Kans three Sons, and cut off their heads. They were put into a 
 Gold Bafbn, and prefented to the King $ who commanded the Fellows to carry 
 them to their Father, and as foon as he had feen them, to take off his head 
 to make the foarth. The Affaflinates found him at his prayers ; but being in- 
 terrupted to fee the heads of his three Sons, he defiVd leave only to conclude, 
 which having done, with a countenance undifturb'd, and without any other 
 Words or expreffions in his mouth than what is ufually faid among the Per~ 
 fans, Let the Kings will be done,he fubmitted to a death which he might have eafily 
 avoided. The four heads were brought back to the King, to be fent into 
 the Haram to his Mother. So foon as he had taken off" the heads of the 
 Father and the three Sons, the King difpatch'd away certain Chappars or Cour- 
 iers, with order to the Lieutenant of the Kan, to put to death all the reft of 
 the Children. The command was obey'd, and they were all put to death, but 
 only two that were at Nurfe, whom their Nurfts fo well conceal'd, that never 
 any tidings could be heard either of the Nurfes or of the Children. 
 
 After the death of Iman-Kouli-Kan, the Province of Schiras, with its de- 
 pendances , has been govern'd by a Vi%ir , who agrees with the King what 
 Rent to pay him yearly. In the years i66j and 1666, the Viur gave him fifty 
 
 B b y thoa- 
 
206 
 
 Tbe Persian Travels Book V. 
 
 thoufand Tomans a year. But in the year 1667, the King abated him eight 
 thoufand Tomans, in regard he had taken from him a fmall part of his Govern- 
 ment to pleafure a Favourite. 
 
 Befides what the Governour of Schiras pays to the King in ready Money, 
 he is oblig'd every year to fend him a prefent of all the rarities that grow 
 or are bred in the Province. Thefe Prefents confift in Horfes, of which there 
 is the beft breed of any Province of Perfia. In Granates, Oranges, and Le- 
 mons, fweet Oils and Waters of feveral forts, efpecially Oil of Roles, with 
 which the women rub their bodies and heads ; and the water of a certain 
 Flower that grows upon a tree not much unlike our Willows, which water is 
 call'd Arak^Bilmitjhe i which is a great refrelhment to thofe that ufe it ; be- 
 fides other Oils and Eflences which the Governour is oblig'd to prefent. Yet 
 were he only oblig'd to prefent the King, the expence might be born well 
 enough; but for fear of being difplac'd by any other Favourite, he is con- 
 ftraih'd to make Friends of all the other great Lords and Favourites at Court; 
 which there is no way to do, but by continual prefents. Whereas the ancient 
 Kans, who were a kind of petty Soveraigns in their Governments, were only 
 wont to fend a few Baskets of new Fruits in their feafon for the fervice of 
 the Kings Table. To defray this expence, the Governours are forc'd to ty- 
 rannize over the people j who when they come, as many times they do, two 
 or three Villages together, to complain to the King, are forc'd after long wait- 
 ing, to return with empty Purfes home again, by reafon that they who mould 
 give them admhTion, are the only perfons that debar them from it ; and pa- 
 tiently tofubmit to the Extortions of the Vi-^ir ; which is a piece of policy pra- 
 dtis'd likewife by all the other Kans and Governours of the Perfian Provinces. 
 As for Sha-Scfi himlelf, he was very fevere, and one whofe punifhments oft'n 
 amounted to ads of cruelty. One day being a hunting, a poor Countryman 
 appear'd from behind a Rock, with a paper in his hand, being deputed by the 
 Village to make fome complaint to the King. But while the poor man cry'd 
 for juftice, the King without making any anfwer, (hot two arrows into his body 
 and flew him. That which mov'd Sha-Sefi to this aft of cruelty., was becaule 
 he had lome of his Wives with him in company. For then there is no mercy 
 to thole poor people that happ'n to be in the way where the King chances 
 to pafs by j no not for them that are in the Country round about, where the 
 Eunuchs have order to kill all men they meet. When the King gives notice 
 of his intention to carry his Wives into the Country, this is call'd Comouk^i 
 and there is nothing more troublefome nor more inconvenient in the world to 
 the poor people that live in the Villages through which thefe women are to 
 pals ; for upon notice giv'n them, they muft leave their Houfes for a League 
 or two of either fide. When there is a Couroul^ at Ifpaban, let the weather be 
 never lb bad, the people muft leave their Houfes, and if they have no Friends 
 in fome diftant quarter to retire to, they have no way but to repair to the Moun- 
 tains. Such is the excefs of the jealoufie of the Kings of Perfia ; which indeed 
 derives it felf to all his Subjects, who will not permit their women to be feen 
 by any but their own Husbands. 
 
 The Perfians both men and women are fo addicted to take Tobacco, that 
 to take their Tobacco from them, is to take away their lives. So that if the 
 King Ihould prohibit Tobacco for any time, he would lofe a good part of his 
 revenue. However Sha-Sefi in a humor having once forbidd'n Tobacco to be 
 taken in any part of his Dominion, his Spies ( that are in every City ) found 
 in the Indian Inn two rich Merchants of that Nati-on fmoaking their nofes. Imme- 
 diately they were feiz'd, bound, and carry'd to the King, who commanded forth- 
 with that Juftice fhould be done upon them in the Meidan, which was that 
 they fhould pour melted lead down their throates till they were dead. 
 
 The people thought the King had only intended to have fcar'd them, and 
 would have repriev'd them upon the place. Infomuch that four Banians went 
 to the Athtmadouleti and offer'd to pay two thouland Tomans into the Kings 
 Treafury, fo that he would be pleas'd to fpare the two Merchants lives. The 
 chief Minifter made the propofal, but the King falling into a pafliion, and asking 
 the ylthemadottlet t whether thofe Indian Dogs thought that a King of Perfia would 
 
Chap. IV. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 fell fuftice, fent a fecond order for the execution of the Merchants without 
 delay. 
 
 The fame Sba-Sefi having giv'n command that the Eyes of a young Lord 
 of the Court mould be put out, one of the principal Officers of the Houfe 
 being prefent, and feeing the Executioner prick the eyes of the unfortunate 
 young man with the point of a fmall knife, fhut his own eyes and turn'd away 
 his head, as abhorring fuch a fpectacle. The King perceiving it, and vex'd to 
 fee thofe figns of pity, and a diflike of an act that he approv'd ; What, laid he 
 in a fury, art thou afraid to punijh the wicked? And at the fame time com- 
 manded his eyes to be pull'd out of his head. 
 
 It is a cuftom, that jf any man points at the King as he palfes along in the 
 Street, or upon the Road, he muft Iofe his hand. One day Sba-Sefi being in the 
 Country, two Merchants of Confiantinople were upon the Road, where the King 
 and his Train were to pafs. They ftopp'd to fee the King, and when he came 
 near, one of the Merchants pray 'd his Friend that oft'nhad feen him, to fhew Iiim 
 which was he. The other knowing that only the King wears the Heron tops 
 in his Bonnet, innocently lifted up his hand to diltinguifh him, by pointing, from 
 the relt of the Lords that follow'd him. For which act two Horfement came 
 prefently to him, and cut off his hand with a Scimiter. 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 The tragical and memorable Story of Ralph Sadler, Native of Zurich, 
 in the Reign of Sha-Sefi, who had retain d him in his Service. 
 
 RAlph Sadler, born in Zurich, was a Watchmaker by Profeffion, who put him- 
 felf into the fervice of the Emperors Refident at the Ottoman Court, 
 with whom he went to Conftantinople. This man I delir'd to take along with 
 me into Perfia>, and coming to Iftaban, he fee himfelf to work, and made a fmall 
 Watch about the bignefs of half a Crown ; which being a neat piece of work, 
 the Englijh would needs buy , to prefent it to Iman-Couli-Kan , paying the 
 price demanded, which was two hundred Crowns. Iman-Couli-Kan presented 
 it to the King ; who was mightily pleas'd with it, in regard it was the leafl 
 ftriking Watch that ever had been feen by the King, who therefore carry 'd it 
 hanging about his Neck under his Clothes, in a Gold Chain. One day the King 
 happening to wind up his Watch, and turning the Key the wrong way, broke 
 the Fufil, for which he was fo much troubfd, that he fent for the Watch- 
 maker from Ifpahan to Casbin; whither when Ralph came, he prefently made 
 the Watch as good as ever. The King thus fatisfy'd in his work and in his per- 
 fon, order'd him a Penfion of thirty Tomans, and Diet for him and a man, and 
 provifion for two Horfes ; commanding him withall to make fome new pieces 
 of work. Now a skilful workman in the fervice of the Perfian King, has this 
 advantage, that if he pleafes the King, belides his Wages that are duly paid, 
 the King out of his liberality beftows on him a prefent, which ufually amounts 
 to a third part or half his Wages ; or elfe his Wages are rais'd, which is more 
 advantageous than a prefent. 
 
 Ralph was oblig'd every morning to wait upon the King at his riling, to 
 wind up his Watch $ and was fo much in the Kings favour, that every morn- 
 ing when lie came out of the Kings Chamber, he had a Glals of Wine pre- 
 fented him, as a mark of efteem. And indeed the King had fuch an affection 
 for him, that to retain him in his fervice he often follicited him to turn Maho- 
 metan. 
 
 The EmbaiTador of Holftein coming to Ifpahan, and feeing Ralph fo much in 
 favour with the King, endeavour'd to gain his Friendfhip. 
 
 Thus Ralph oft'n keeping company with the Embaffadors, and having one 
 time tarry'd till late at night upon the debauch with them, returning home to 
 
 his 
 
The Persian Travels 
 
 Book V. 
 
 his Lodging, where he kept a young Neslc:ian girl, in the Court of the Houfe 
 met a young Perftan , Brother to one of the Kings Porters. The Perfian know- 
 ing himfelf guilty, and furpriz'd to fee Ralph fo foon return'd, skip't over the 
 Wall into the Garden and fled. The next day Ralph (who knew who he was) 
 told his Brother of it, and defir'd hini to fpeak to the young Perfian not to 
 come any more to his Houfe ; for if he did, he muft expect what follow'd. 
 
 Some days after, the Embalfadors treated all the Franks ; when Ralph be- 
 ginning to be warm, call'd the young Perfian to mind, and flipping home with- 
 out taking his leave, operi'd the door foftly, and found the young Perfian again 
 with his Miftris. Thereupon Ralph calling his Slaves to help him, bound" his 
 arms, and ty'd him to a Tree in the Court ; and fo leaving him there, went to 
 bed. By and by one of Ralphs Servants, who knew the Perfian, fell a jeering 
 him j which fo incens'd the Perfian, that he having his feet at liberty, and the 
 fellow within his reach, gave him fuch a kick upon the bottom of his belly, 
 that he firft fwooned away, and then dy'd. The other Slaves feekig him fall, 
 waken'd Ralph with their cries, who thereupon fnatching up a Piftol that was 
 charg'd with a brace of Bullets, fhot the Perfian into the head. The Perfian 
 being thus (lain, Ralph went in the morning to wind up the Kings Watch ; and 
 being ask'd by the King, as he was wont to do, what news in Ifpahtn, told 
 him plainly what he had done, and the reafon why. The King upon his re- 
 port told him, he had done well according to the ftrictnefs of the Country. 
 
 The Athemadoulet at that time was Mirz,a-Takf, who hated Ralph. For the 
 Armenian Merchants having prefented the Athemadoulet with feveral Watches 
 at a time, it happen'd that once he fent to Ralph above thirty Watches toge- 
 ther to be mended. For which the Athemadoulet, to gratifie him, and knowing 
 that he kept four or five Servants, and feven or eight Horfcs, lent him fifteen 
 or twenty Camels load of Straw and Barley for his Horfes. But Ralph flight- 
 ing fuch a prefent as that, Go ( faid he to the Athemadoulets Servant) tell thy 
 Alafier, that I am neither a Horfe nor an Afs, and therefore let him eat his 
 Prefent himfelf. Which meffage fo provok'd the Athrmadoulet, that he ftudy'd 
 nothing but revenge. 
 
 Thereupon the Athemadonlet, whofe bufinefs it is to attend the King when 
 he rifes, and to report to him the news of the Town, told him, among the 
 reft, what Ralph had done. The King reply'd, that Ralph had confeft'd it to 
 him already, and that he had pardon'd him, in regard he had reafon to do as 
 he did. But the Athemadoulet made anfwer, that Ralph had mine'd the mat- 
 ter j and reprefented the ftory to the King far otherwife than it was, making 
 the worft of it he could upon Ralph's, fide ; and the more to incite the King, 
 he put him in mind of the fair occafion he had to force him to turn Mujfulm an ,there 
 being no way to expiate his crime, but by turning Mahometan, or fulfering the 
 Law. The King thus over-rufd fent for Ralph, told him, he was now better 
 ivform'd of the crime he had committed, and that he muft either turn Ma- 
 hometan or dye. Thereupon the King fent him to Prifbn. Eight days after, 
 the King ( who had a great love for him, and therefore troubl'd that he muft 
 be conftrain'd to put him to death, unlefs he would turn Mahumetan,) fent for 
 him again, and oifer'd him two thoufand Tomans, after a powerful perfwafion 
 by words, but all fignify'd nothing. Upon that he fent him back again to Pri- 
 fon. But yet remembring that he had once approv'd the fact, he fent for Ralph 
 a fecond time, and offer'd him ten thoufand Tomans, and a Wife out of his 
 Haram, with all her Jewels ; all which Ralph refus'd, with the fame refblu- 
 tion as before. The King incensed at the fiercenefs of his refolution, deliver'd 
 him to the Brother of the party (lain, to execute the Law upon him. The 
 Holftein EmbafTadors were refolv'd to have beg'd his life; but the Athema- 
 doulet, fmelling their defign, would not permit them Audience. However, the 
 King commanded all the Franks, and all the Armenian Clergy to be prefent at 
 the Execution, to fave all his blood, and put him in a Coffin j he commanded 
 alfo, that he fhould be buried at Zulpha in the Armenian Church-yard, and 
 have a Tomb made over him. 
 
 Thereupon Ralph was lead to the Meidan, with that triangular Inftrument of 
 Wood which the Per fans call a Palenk, y about his neck. This Palenk. was the 
 
 caufe 
 
Chap. V. of Monfieur Tavernier. 209 
 
 caufe that the Brother of the deceas'd, who was to be the Executioner, not 
 only mifs'd his firft blow , but wounded himfelf in the Leg, while his Skain 
 being born off by one of the fides of the triangular Inftrument,by the force of the 
 blow lighted upon himfelf. Whereupon the people making a great ftiout 
 hinder'd farther execution for that time. The King being advertis'd thereof, re- 
 manded him to Prifon, and after a few days (ent for him a third time into 
 his pretence ; but though the King offer'd him a thoufand Tomans, and that 
 the Lords urg'd him to turn, though it were but for a while, and in outward 
 appearance ; yet neither threats nor promifes could move the Zurickian, who 
 was thereupon executed at the end of Otlober, 1637. 
 
 All the Frankj willingly contributed to raife him a Tomb ; which was co- 
 ver'd with a fmall Duomo, fupported with four Pillars, ten or twelve foot high. 
 The Armenians have made him a Saint ; fo that when they are lick of a Fea- 
 ver, they come and make their devotions at this Tomb ; and every time they 
 come, they carry away a piece of a Stone 5 fo that the Tomb wants repair- 
 ing every year. 
 
 The Athemadoulet, to the end the King might be the lefs fenfible of the 
 want of him, had told the King, that his Majefty would find no great mifs 
 of him, in regard he had a Servant who was almoft as good as himfelf. But 
 (bme few days after, the Kings Watch that he always carry'd about him, be- 
 ing out of order, and Ralphs Apprentice not being able to remedy the fault 5 
 the King for madnefs that he had been the Watchmakers death, threw the 
 Watch at the Athetnadoulets head. There, cry'd he, Dog as thou art, by thy 
 advice I pnt Ralph to death , the moft skilful man of his Profeffion that ever 
 will come into my Kingdom. Thou defervefh for thy counfel, to have thy belly ript 
 up. But I fwear by my Throne, that from this time forward I will never pnt a. 
 a Chrifiian to death for his Religion. And I que ft ion whether any of yon would 
 have had the fame courage to have dfd for the Law of Haly. And indeed they 
 have been very cautious ever fince ; nor has any of the Franks been put to 
 death, though they have flown out before the King in words and actions raih 
 enough. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 Of fome p.irticuLirs under the Reign of Sha- Abbas the fecond. 
 
 SHa-Abbas the fecond, Son of Sha Sefi, was no lefs cruel then his Father « 
 and would be no left punctually obey'd. 
 He had two Sifters, which he marri'd to two of the richeft Lords of his 
 Kingdom, though of a very mean extraction. Some time after, the King un- 
 derstanding that they were both with- Child,- order'd Phyfick to be given them 
 to deftroy the fruit of their Wombs. About three months after, he was told 
 that they were big again ; then he fufferd 'em to be brought to bed ; but com- 
 manded that they mould not give the Children any nourifhment, but let 'era 
 ftarve to death. 
 
 The fame Sha Abbas caus'd the tongue of one that fill'd him Tobacco to be 
 cut out for a word fpok'n idly. For the King calling for Tobacco, one of the 
 Pages ran haftily for it to him that had it in charge, and bid him dhpatch ; 
 who anfwer'd him briskly, Gehenneme fabreijle, that is, to Hell } have a little pa- 
 tience. The King being inform'd of it, commanded his tongue to be cut out. 
 The poor man defir'd him that was the Executioner, to cut it as deep as he 
 could in his throat, and to leave it very fhort ; by which means he fpoke fome 
 words muffling. 
 
 The people cry'd out againft the JSfaz-ar, who being a perfon of low ex- 
 traction, and advane'd to that high dignity in a fhort time, grew fo proud that 
 he contemn'd all the Lords of the Court, There was no dealing with him 
 
 abo'it 
 
2io The Persian Travels Book V. 
 
 about any bufinefs, unlefs he were firft prefented ; and he paid no body with- 
 out making fome advantage of it. Every body had reafon to complain ; yet 
 no perfon knew how to come at the King to make their complaints. At length 
 they bethought themfelves of making their application to two black Eunuchs, 
 who had the Kings ear in the night. One was call'd Aga-Saron , who was 
 the Meter or Matter of the Wardrobe ; and the other siga-Kafour, or high 
 Treafurer. Thefe two Eunuchs feeing the King in a good humour one night, 
 Jet fall certain words concerning the Naz^ar, and his management of affairs, and 
 thence Aid into a difcourfe of his injuftice, that caus'd the people to cryout againft 
 him, and fpeak evil of his Government. Now it happen'd one morning that the 
 King intending to go a hunting, the Grand Matter, who had always a large train at- 
 tending him, coming to the Kings Tent, the Meter deny'd him entrance. About 
 the fame time the King came forth, and feeing the Naz*ar, commanded his Officers 
 to take off the Bonnet from the head of that Dog that took Gifts from his 
 people ; and that he fhould fit three days bareheaded in the heat of the Sun, 
 and as many nights in the Air. Afterwards he caus'd him to be chain'd about 
 the neck and arms, and condemn'd him to perpetual imprifonment, with a Ma- 
 moudy a day for his maintenance j but he dy'd for grief within eight days 
 after he was put in prifbn. 
 
 fafer-Kan, being a generous Lord, and one that kept a magnificent train, was 
 Governour of ylfterabat. At firft he was very mild, but at laft he began to 
 exacl fuch fums from the people, that his oppreffions were very heavy ; nor 
 were thefe violences of his conceal'd from the Kings ear 5 who being one day 
 drinking with fome of his Lords,. and feeing the Matter of his Mufick in the 
 Room, who was a merry drc!!, and had always fome pleafant news or other 
 to tell the King ; his Maiefty was pleas'd to ask him, what the people faid of 
 fafer-Kan ; adding withal!, that he had made him Governour of feveral Pro- 
 vinces, and had never heard any complaint of him before, but that now he was 
 accus'd of ftrangely tyrannizing over the people. The Mufick Matter being a 
 meer flatterer, and knowing that fafcr-Kan was extreamly belov'd by the King, 
 confidently averr'd, that the Governour was fulfly accus'd, and that he had al- 
 ways known him apter to give than to receive. There was at the fame time 
 in the Room, an Agis call'd Manouchar- Kan, lately return'd from a Pilgrimage 
 to Mecca ; him the King alio ask'd, what was his opinion of Jafer-Kan, and his 
 Government, being a perfon that had been long acquainted with him ; to whom 
 the Agt$i thinking to pleafe the King, return'd the fame anfwer, that the Mu- 
 fick Matter had giv'n. Whereupon the King, who had been well informed of 
 the Kans behaviour, turning toward the Lords that were prefent, what thinly 
 you, faid he , of thefe two Flatterers, that abfolutely know the contrary to what 
 they fyeakj And at the fame time commanded two of the Mufick Matters 
 teeth to be pulPd out of his mouth , and to be driv'n into the head of the 
 Agis i which had like to have coft him his life, being a very old man. As for 
 fafer-Kan, he was difgrae'd for a time, but being a perfon endow'd with noble 
 qualities, valiant, generous, and pleafing in converfation, he was recall'd to Courts 
 and knew fo well how to make his tale good, that his Majefty gave him the 
 Government of Shemeloubofian, of which Semeran is the Capital City. Shemelou- 
 hofian fignifies a Country manur'd to bear fruit. Nor is there any Province in 
 J?erfia that fb abounds in Paftures and Catties, that daily fall to ruine. 
 
 Jafer-Kan being reftor'd to favour, the King lent for feveral Lords of the 
 Court to come and drink with them. He alfo commanded five French Artifi- 
 cers which he had in his fervice to wait upon him, a Goldfmith nam'd Saw, 
 two Watchmakers Lagis and Varin, and two Musket- makers Marais and Ber-* 
 nard. After they had heated themfelves a little with Wine, the King drew a 
 Ruby out from off his finger, which I fold for him a hundred Tomans, and a Dia- 
 mond Jewel worth thirteen or fourteen hundred Tomans, which he gave to 
 fafer-Kan, with whom he was whifpering at the fame time. Now though the 
 Naz.ar were at a diftance, yet without doubt fomewhat of the difcourfe was 
 heard ; infomuch that the Wine emboldning him, he told the King aloud, that 
 if he would let him have but f our thoufand Horfe, he would cut all that Rab- 
 ble to pieces.. The King bid him hold his tongue and go to fleep i teftifying 
 
Chap. V. of Monfieur Tavernier. 211 
 
 his difpleafure at his difcourfe. For the Naz.ar conjecftur'd that the King was 
 talking to fafer-Kan about the incurfions which the Vsbeck, Tartars often made 
 from Mcjhed fide. As for the Franks three of the five were gone home to 
 fleep, Sain, Lagis, and Bernard: Mar as and Varin ftay'd behind in the Room. 
 But Marats being of a humor that when he was drunk he could not hold his 
 tongue, and having heard what the Nax*ar (aid,, he likewife took upori him 
 to tell the King, that if the King wanted a General, there was none fitter to 
 make a General than fafer-Kan, and prefently began a long repetition of his 
 praifes. The King commanded him to hold his tongue, which he did for awhile, 
 but then falling again into his former impertinencies, the King commanded him 
 to be dragg'd out of the Room by the feet, and that they fhould rip up his 
 belly. Thereupon Marais was feiz'd upon by the Meter, who having a great kind- 
 nefs for the Franks, and knowing that the King had a lingular love for Ma- 
 rais, delay'd the execution of the Kings command, pulling his Cloathes off very 
 flowly ; and finding that the King did not rife to go into his Haram, which is 
 the fign of no pardon to be given, he caus'd him to be dragg'd as near the 
 perfon of the King as he could, thereby to try whether the King would have 
 companion on him or no ; while certain Lords took the boldnefs to implore 
 the Kings mercy in his behalf. At laft when the King faw him dragg'd along, 
 he commanded the Officers to let him go, and withall order'd him to put on 
 his Cloathes again, and refume his place. 
 
 The King of Per/id's eldeft Son comes very raw to the Throne ; and his firft 
 divertifement is to make ftiort journeys into the Provinces, thereby by little 
 and little to gain the knowledg of fuch things as concern him. Above all things 
 • he never fails to vifit the principal Church of the Armenians at Zulpba. That 
 which makes him fo curious, is his defire to fee the Armenian women, who 
 are very handfom ; being alfo further incited thereto by the Saltanejfes, who are 
 glad of any recreation. And then he has a CohyohI^ through all Znlpha^ at 
 what time all the men muft retire to Ifpaban, or to their Friends at a diftance. 
 Ska- Abbas the fccond went feveral times in that manner to Zulpha ; and one 
 day among the reft, upon the report of the beauty of the Wife of the Ke- 
 lonter Gorgia Safras , Son of Kelonter Gorgia Naz.ar , the King having feen 
 her, lik'd her very well, and defir'd her to go along with the Sultaneffes, who 
 carryM her into the Haram, where fhe continu'd fifteen days, and then retfiirn'd 
 home with a fair Neck-Lace of Pearls, which the King gave her when the went 
 away. 
 
 To fay the truth of Sba-Abbas the fecond, he was a man too much given 
 to drink, and too much govern'd by his pafTion ; otherwife he was a lover of 
 juftice, and very magnificent and generous to Strangers. 
 
 Cc 
 
 CHAP. 
 
The Persian Travels Book V. 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Of the misfortune of Mahomet Beg in the raigne of Sha-Abbas the 
 fecond, 
 
 * 
 
 MAhomet Beg was born at Tauris, the Son of a Taylor, who bred him a Scho- 
 lar. He had a quick apprehenfion, and was naturally enclin'd to vertue } 
 and being defirous to advance himfelf in the world, he had the good luck to ob- 
 tain the employment of Major- Bajln, or chief of the Effayers and Refiners of Mo- 
 ney, who has a power to viiit all places where money is coyn'd. After that, he 
 became acquainted with the Aila Verdi Beg, or Mr. Godfgift, the Kings chief 
 Huntfman, by the title of Mert-Shckar-Bajhi, who gladly prefented him to the 
 King, to whom the King was very thankful,fb foon as he had found the nobleQua- 
 lities of the perfon he had prefented. Thereupon fo foon as Mahomet AU-Beg,grand 
 Mafter of the Kings Houfe dy'd, the King beftow'd that Employment upon Maho- 
 met Beg, who not only gain'd the favour of his Majefty, but the good will of all 
 the Lords of the Court. He had a great refpect for them all, without medling 
 with any of their employments, and Tuppreft his revengeful fpirir, not finding it 
 feafonable as yet to difclofe his pafhons. 
 
 Kalife Sultan at that time Athemadoulet hapning to dye , the King conferred 
 that place upon Mahomet Beg, who at lirft bebav'd himfelf in that employment tp 
 the fatisfaction of all men. He apply'd himfelf particularly to the fearching out 
 of Mines ; for there had a report ran among the people for many years, that if 
 certain mountaines nine or ten miles from Ifpahan toward the Weft were well 
 digg'd into, their might be found ftore of Gold, Silver and Copper. To which 
 purpofe he made ufe of a Norman , whole name was La Chapelle de Han, who 
 vanted at that time to have great skill in Chymiftry, Mines and Minerals, for which 
 reafon he was recommended by the Governor of Ifpahan to the Athemadoulet then 
 at Casbin with the King, who prefently fent him back again to the Governour to 
 furnifh him with all things necelfary for his Expences, and for the work which he 
 undertook in the Mountains. Thither went La Chapelle, and after fifteen days 
 toyl return'd to Ifpahan with two or three hunder'd weight of earth,and fet up fur- 
 naces to draw out the metal. The Athemadoulet was fo wife as to give order to 
 the Governour of Ifpahan,and three or four more perfons of Quality to overview 
 the Norman, to fee that he play'd no foul play. But though there was not fo 
 much as a half peny worth of filver in all the earth from the bottom to the top, 
 though the Perjians watch'd him fo narrowly as they did, he made a fhift to muf- 
 fle in an Abajfi among the earth,as it was in the furnace without being perceiv'd. 
 Neverthelefs the Athemadoulet, to whom it was carry'd, prefently found out the 
 cheat, though he took no notice of it, hoping to make better ufe of the Norman 
 in other things ; only he forbad him to dig any more in that place, in regard the 
 expence would exceed the profit. 
 
 La Chapelle, who was very skilful at putting off his merchandize, and one who 
 knew to make the beft ufe of the leaft fmackering that he might perhaps have in 
 Mechanicks,and the power of Motion, had the cunning to amufe the Athemadoulet 
 for ten years together,being a paffionate Lover of new Inventions ; and the better 
 to infinuate himfelf into theKings favour alfum'd to himfelf thelnvention of feveral 
 Rarities which he fhew'd the Kisg, who thereupon allow'd him a very handfome 
 penfion. Thus encourag'd,he undertook to caftCanons, bring the water to the 
 top of the Kings houfe, and feveral other things, yet when all his defigns fail'd for 
 want of Art, and that he found he could do no more good in Perfa, refolving for 
 India,he dy'd at Ormtu. 
 
 The Athemadoulet miffing of Gold and Silver Mines, apply'd himfelf to the dis- 
 covery of Copper Mines, wherein he was more fortunate j for in thofe Mines he 
 alfo found veins of Azure, of which there is a great quantity confum'd in painting 
 the Grotefco Fiourijhes upon the Ceilings and Arches of their Houfes.He alfo found 
 out a Mine of Lead near Terde : and being ftilJ upon new djfcpveries, he found out 
 
Chap. VI. of Monfieur Tavekniel 213: 
 
 a Mine of Talk, Stone, Allum, and Coles,but of neither fo good as in other Coun- 
 tries. He was fo obftinate in thefearth of Metals, that if any perfon had an oeca- 
 fion to fpeak with him, let him be never fo bufie npon never fo important affairs, 
 it was enough to bring him fome ftones of a fuppofed Mine, or fomething rare ei- 
 ther for Colour, Figure or Weight. He alfo gave full power to them that brought 
 him any tidings of a Mine to go to the place, and to prefs the Countrymen from 
 their labour to dig in the Mountains and break up rocks : and if they found no- 
 thing he caft the fault upon the ignorance of the Labourers. » 
 
 He alfo apply'd himfelf to the ftudy of Mechanic Motions. He would have 
 found an Invention, whereby the half Vail that hangs in the Kings Megeler, or 
 Council Chamber, and is drawn to and fro by certain Officers in the Summer, to 
 gather the cool Air, mould have bin made by Engine-work. Then he took a fan- 
 cy for water Engines, the moft nccelfary thing in the world for Terfu to relieve 
 the drowth of the Country, but wanting necelfaries, as Beams, Rafters, Wheel- 
 work, Cordage and Iron, he could not begin thofe Engines, the figures whereof 
 La Chapelle had left him in a Book. 
 
 But as Mahomet Beg was ftudious in thefe things, fo was he Ambitious and Re- 
 vengeful to that height that he could not obferve a moderation in his refentment 
 againft thofe that had given him any diftafte. In his height of Paffion he caus'd 
 feveral Kans to be depriv'd of their Provinces, and by confifcating their Eftates 
 reduc'd them to utmoft neceffity. 
 
 TheKan of Erivan had a Son who was a lovely and a well proportion'd Gentle- 
 man, and always attended at the Kings Elbow. One day that the King was drinking- 
 with fome Lords., he commanded the Kan of Erivans Son to carry a Gold Cup 
 full of Wine to the Atbemadoulet , who perceiving that he had enough already* 
 made a fign with his eye to the young Lord to return it back. The young Lord 
 palTing by the King told him ingenioully that the Athemadoulet had no defire to 
 drink, whereupon the King commanded him to go and powre the Wine into his 
 bofome. As the one was oblig'd to obey, the Arhem^doulet was forc'd to fuf- 
 fer, and to permit the young man to open his bofome and powre down the 
 Wine j for not daring to (hew his Anger, he was forc'd to dhTemble the beft he 
 could for that time. But having refolv'd to revenge the atfront upon the Kanoi 
 Erivan Father of the young Lord, who had only done what the King command- 
 ed him, he refolv'd to lay hold upon the opportunity that prefented it felf,knovv- 
 ing that there were feveral complains come againft him from the Armenians of 
 Erivan. Thereupon the Athemadoulet fends for the Kelonter, encourages him in 
 his fuit, and gives him inftruclions how to proceed. To this end Mahomet 
 Beg appoints him to meet him fuch an hour at the Kings Stables, whither the 
 King prefently coming, the Kelonter threw himfelf at the Kings feet, and be- 
 fought him for Juftice againft the Kan of Erivans oppreffions : while Mahomet 
 Beg fail'd not to heap up aggravations againft the Governour, and the King, 
 though he had heard but one fide,as eafily condemn'd him upon the Accufation of 
 the Kelonter and his Prime Minifter. Thereupon an Officer of the Kings , call'd 
 Negef-Couli-Beg, a man of a quick and active fpirit was commanded to go in all 
 hafte, and feize upon the Perfon of the Kan. Who being come to Erivan found 
 him upon his feat of Juftice, confifcating and condemning to fine and Corporal 
 punimment a near Kinfman of the Kelonters. The Melfenger boldly enter 'd into 
 the Megeler or Council Chamber, goes directly to the Kan s told him he was the 
 Kings prifner, and gave him a blow with his fift upon the neck, about which he 
 was to wear the Triangle of great thick pieces of wood already defcrib'd, into 
 which the neck is enclos'd, while the Arms and Hands of the Prifner are put 
 through another piece of wood thatcroffes the Triangle, which is a great pain to 
 the Prifner. Thus was the Kan carry'd night and day to Ifpahan, but when he 
 came there the King fhew'd him more mercy, and allowed him his houfo for z 
 prifon, yet not fuffering him to go to the Bath, nor to (have his hair, nor to ftir 
 out of the Apartment where his women were. Thefe are penalties impos ? d iiport 
 thofe that fall into ditgrace at Court, whom the King (huts up in their houfts, in- 
 tending no feverer punimment. For the Kan being belov'd by the King was re-'- 
 ftor'd to his favour, and to his former charge of fuperintendant of the Kings 
 Mofyuee. 
 
 G c % Neither 
 
214 
 
 The Persian Travels 
 
 Book V. 
 
 Neither did this fright'n others from bearing up againft the Power of Mahomet 
 Beg, though every one had not the fame fuccefs. For ill it far'd with the Go- 
 vernour of Schiras, who was call'd Mirz^a Haddi. He was a perfon of great wealth 
 and knowledge,and one day in Council took upon him to tell Mahomed Beg,that he 
 was not of his opinion,and withall to lay before him his defedts,and ill conduft.But 
 the Primce Mipifter fo deeply lay'd to heart the boldnefs of Mirz,a Haddi,thzt he 
 refolv'd to revenge himfelf by all means imaginable. He fuborn'd falfe witneffes, 
 and other perfons to make complaints before him of the Governour of Schiras. 
 There was a neceflky for the party accus d to appear before Mahomet Beg as his 
 Judge, but the Governor trufting to his Innocence, nere minded the rage of his ad- 
 verfary, not believing he could receive any injury from him. In the mean time 
 Mahomet Beg inform'd the King what he pleas'd himfelf, and overpow'ring him 
 by his authority, confifcated all Mirz,a Hadd'is Eftate, and fent him to prifon to 
 the Houfe of the Naz~ar, who was call'd Ifmael Beg. When he came there they 
 hung him upon Tenter- hooks By the feet againft the wall, and drub'd him fo long, 
 that he was forc'd to be carri'd into another Room upon a Slaves back. His Lieu- 
 tenant and an Eunuch,that had bin his Treafurer,were ferv'd in the fame (a wee, and 
 all three put into a high Chamber that ferv'd inftead of a prifon. His Vizier or 
 Lieutenant was releas'd in a fhort wh\\e,butMirz.a Haddi and his Eunuch were ftill 
 kept clofe. 
 
 Nor is the manner of his revenging himfelf upon Mir-Kaff em-Beg, the Deroga, 
 or Provoft of Ifpahan left remarkable. While Mahomet Beg was only Majer-Ba~ 
 Jhi, there was fome gold Plate ftoll'n out of the Kings Kitchin. Thereupon the 
 Deroga fent his Officers to feize upon all the Goldfmiths in Ifpahan, that knew 
 nothing of the matter, as being utterly innocent of the Robbery. In the mean 
 time he put them all in prifon, and lockt them clofe up, intimating to them that 
 he was refolv'd not to releafe them without a good fum of money. The poor 
 Goldfmiths thus ill us'd, apply'd themfelves to the Ma\er Bajhi, who fent his Of- 
 ficers to entreat the Deroga to confider that the Gold-fmiths were innocent of the 
 Robbery ,and that being in fome manner under the Jurifdiction of the Mayer-Bajhi t 
 as being Artificers in Gold and Silver, he ought not to refufe to difcharge them at 
 his requeft. But the Deroga not feeing the money come, bid the Officers of Ma- 
 homet Beg tell their Mafter that he knew what belong'd to his Employment , and 
 further, faid he, Let the Taylors Son meddle with his own bufwefs ; tell him wipball, 
 added he, that if he pleafes I will Jhew him his Sifter s drawers. For a little before 
 the Deroga had by his Spies furpriz'd her toying in a Garden with two young 
 Lords , from whom he fqueez'd a confiderable fum of money. Mahomet Beg not 
 powerful enough then to profecute his revenge, let it fleep, but when he came to 
 the height of preferment, he remember'd the Deroga, and bethought himfelf 
 which way to ruin him. Nor was it long ere an opportunity oifer'd it felf. For 
 there being a report that the Enemy appear'd about Candahar, a Frontier Town 
 of Perfia upon the Mogulls Territories, the ylthemadoulet adviz'd the King tdf 
 raife a good number of Souldiers about Ifpahan, as being lufty nimble fel- 
 lows and us'd to labour, and to fend them to Candaliar, to be ready againft all 
 accidents. The King having an entire confidence in the Athemadoulet,oxdtx'A him 
 to lofe no time, but to commit the management of the Levies to fuch perfons as 
 had perfecl: knowledge of the plain Country. Then Mahomet 2?<?g,ftudying his re- 
 venge,told the King that there was no perfon fitter for the employment than the 
 Deroga. Mir KaJfembeg,who according to his cruel and covetous humor,foon abus'd 
 his Commiffion, the thing which he, who had procur'd it, chiefly defir'd.For 
 whereas the King intended that none mould be enroll'd but thofe that were wil- 
 ling, the Deroga forc'd every body,efpecially the Sons of the richeft Farmers,who 
 rather than part with their Sons gave the Deroga his own demands to fpare them. 
 When Mahomet Beg had got matter enough againft the Deroga, he underhand 
 ftirr'd up the Country people to make their complaint, giving them to underftand 
 that it was contrary to theKings intention to have them tormented in that manner, 
 that his CommifTion was only to lift thofe that would go of their own accord. The 
 Vi)lages,eafily encourag'd,fent their Deputies to Ifpahan, whom he kindly rccei- 
 v'd and preferred the fame hour to the King. His Majefty having heard them y 
 and Mahomet Beg having feconded their complaint, the King order'd that they 
 
 fhould 
 
Chap. VI. of Monfieur Tavernier. 215 
 
 ii ould make an exaft lift of what the Commiflioners of the Deroga had robb'd 
 them of. Mahomet Beg loft no time, but by vertue of his Authority and the 
 Kings command, fent his Officers into all the Villages to take the Oath of eve- 
 ry Countryman to the end they mould declare the truth, under the penalty of a 
 Fine and Corporal punifhment, of what had been exaded from them to the ut- 
 moft Shayet. This Oath was to be put in Paper, fign'd by every one that made it, 
 in thefe words, Let my head be confifcated to the King, and my goods to his Divanj 
 if I obey not punctually the Order of his Majefty. The accompt being made of all 
 the money for which they had compounded with the Deroga, it was prefented by 
 Mahomet Beg,vfho aggravated the Tyranny of the Deroga, and reprefented to his 
 Majefty that for thirty years he had thus devour'd the Territories of Ifpahan. 
 Thereupon by the command of the King,who was then at Ifpahan, the Deroga was 
 to be carry'd into the Meydan, and being ty'd up by the heels to receive a certain 
 number of Baftinado's upon the feet for fo many Fridays one after another j and 
 moreover the nerves of his heels were to be cut, and his ankles to be boar'd tho^ 
 rough. The Kings command being thus feal'd, Mahomet Beg committed the ex- 
 ecution thereof to his trufty Inftrument Negef-Couli-Beg, who coming to Ifpahan 
 aflembl'd the chief of the City, together with the Viz.tr or Governour, and the 
 Deroga or Provoft, who thought of nothing } being met, before they broak open 
 the Kings Seal they made a publick Prayer for the profperity of the King ; which 
 being ended, the Vix.it open'd the Letter and read it with a loud voice. When 
 the Vtz.ir came to read the Sentence againft theDeroga, he was feiz'd with aftonifh- 
 mentjat what timeNegef-Couli-Beg coming to xhcDcroga^nd ftriking him upon the 
 Neck with his fift, threw him down under his Horfes feet, and caus'd him to be 
 bound according to cuftom. Immediately he was hurri'd to the ?iaxx.a, where 
 he receiv'd fo many Baftinado's upon the foles of his feet that his nayls fell off. 
 The next Friday they brought him to the fame place, where they repeated the 
 fame Execution, and boar d his ankles. The Deroga being very ancient, his pains 
 put him into fuch a condition as mov'd Negsf-Couli^Beg himfelf to compaflion,who 
 wrote prefently to Court, that the continuance of fo much torment, would infal- 
 libly be the death of the old man. Upon that the King order'd that there mould 
 no more be done to him j only that he mould be (hut up in the inner part of his 
 Houfe with his Wives, depriving him of his employment, but leaving him his 
 Eftate. 
 
 But Mahomet Beg,not having yet compleated the revenge he fought, was re- 
 folv'd after he had thus tormented him, to deprive him alfo of his Eftate. To 
 which purpofe he advanc'd to the Office of Deroga, a Georgian Renegado who 
 was call'd Padada-Beg, whom he taught all the tricks imaginable to pick the 
 peoples pockets. The defign of Mahomet Beg in this, was to let the King under- 
 ftand, that if the new Deroga could heap up fuch a fum of money in five or fix 
 months^ what a prodigious fum muft Mir-Kajfembeg have heap'd up in fo many 
 years. In fhort, the new Deroga inftrucled and encourag'd by Mahomet Beg, le-^ 
 vy'd unjultly fuch a vaft number of fines, committed fo many extortions and ra- 
 pines upon the people, that at the end of fix months the people began to tumult 
 at the Palace gate. The Divan Beqpti,who is the firft Minifter of Juftice, took the 
 peoples part ; whereupon Mahomet Beg perceiving he had been too hafty in his 
 defign to be reveng'd upon the Divan Beqm } who had crofs'd his defigns, one 
 morning caus'd feveral files of Mufqueteers to be drawn up at the Kings Hat am* 
 The King furpriz'd at the fight, Mahomet Beg told him that his Majefty was not 
 fafe fo long as the Divan Bequi ftirr'd up the people to Rebellion : which fo in- 
 cens'd the King, that he caus'd the Groom Porter to go immediately and pull out 
 the Divan Beqni's eyes, which was immediately done ; nor did the old man fay 
 any more, but with his face all befmear'd with his own goar,defir'd the fervant 
 upon whofe arms he lean'd, to turn him toward Mecca that he might pray for the 
 profperity of the King. All his goods were confifcated and brought into theTrea- 
 fuTy#>uvMirKajfem~beg ftill enjoy'd his,though he was forc'd to fpend the remain- 
 der of his„days io his own houfe. 
 
 Thus Mahomet Beg preferv'd himfelf ftill in the Kings favour, and had removM 
 all thofe perfons from the Court that had no kindnefs for him, and was indifferently 
 fafe, till Mir-Tchekft-Bajhi another favourite, whom the King highly lov'd, began 
 
 to 
 
2I<5 Tbe P ersian Travels Book V. 
 
 to make head againft him. Thefe two haughty fpirits would not give an inch one 
 to another : and both equally ftrove to poflefs the Kings favour, to have thedif- 
 pofal of Affairs. Mir-Tchekar-Bafhi, who had brought Mahomet Beg into Fa- 
 vour, being the elder pretended a refpect due to his years, and Mahomet Beg pre- 
 tended more due from him by reafbn of his place. During this conteft ran a re- 
 port of a rebellion upon Georgia fide. Whereupon the AthemadouLct perfwaded 
 the King to fend Mir-Tchekar-Bajhi, lately made Koular Agafi or General of the 
 Slaves toward Georgia, that fo he might remove his Rival from Court. The Fa- 
 vourite fets forward with a flying Gamp, but not finding any Enemy that oppos'd 
 him, wrote back to the King that he faw no appearance of an Enemy, and that 
 therefore it was a needlefs thing to tire the Souldiers in a Country where there 
 was no face of War, and begg'd his Majefties leave to return. The Athemadoule* 
 on the other fide labour'd to hinder his return by preaching to the King the ad- 
 vantages of the ftay of thofe forces in thofe parts. 
 
 In this interim the Vsbek^ Tartars had made inroads upon the Frontiers of Ca- 
 rajfan, and had (lain feveral of Manoutchckj people,who was governor of the Pro- 
 vince. Mahomet Beg who was his Kinfman, gave the King to underftand that the 
 Kan of Corajfan had behav'd himfelf valiantly, but conceal'd the defeat of the 
 Kan. On the other fide the Koular Agafi fent Letter upon Letter to the King, 
 but perceiving that none of them came to the Kings hands, he fent to Ifpahan one 
 of his difcreeteft and moft trufty fervants, who coming to Court intermixed him- 
 felf among the reft of the Lackeys. The Athemadoulet fpy ing an unknown face,and 
 being always miftruftful, demanded who he was? To whom the Mellenger an- 
 Iwer'd that he was a poor Souldier upon the frontiers of the Kingdom , who be- 
 caufe he could not get his pay there was come to Court to fee if he could there 
 get any recompence for his fervice : upon which reply the Athemadoulet took no 
 farther notice of him. Prefently after, the young man meeting the Meter told 
 him he had Letters of importance to deliver into the Kings own hand,of which the 
 Mater giving notice to the King, the meffenger was immediately call'd in. The 
 King having read the Letters which difcover'd to him what the Athemadoulet had 
 * conceal'd from him touching the no neceflity of keeping forces upon the Frontiers 
 ofGevrgia, and the lofs which the Kan of Korajfan had receiv'd, tranfported with 
 choler againft his prime Minifter,fent for him,and after he had moft bloodily revil'd 
 and reproach'd him, he was within a little of killing him with his own hands. But 
 the N'az.ar and fome other Lords there prefent took the boldnefs to reprefent 
 to the King the long fervices which Mahomet Beg had done the Kingdom, and that 
 lince his Majefty had rais'd him from the duft to the higheft honours of the King- 
 dom, it would not be for his honour to deftroy at one blow a perfon that he had 
 lov'd, and might ftill be ufeful to him. This difcourfe fomewhat appeas'd the 
 King, fo that he only gave him in cuftody to the Na&ar. Three days after the 
 King exil'd him toKom^'wh all hisFamily,not permitting him to (have himfeIf,go 
 to the Bath, or to come abroad. This Exilement lafted for feveral years. But my 
 Letters from Perfia in the year 1674. en f° rm 'd me that Sha Socman, the prefent 
 King,has reftor'd him to his Primier Dignity, and that he ftill governs as Atbema- 
 doulet, the King finding no man more capable than himfelf. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Chap. VII. of Monfieur Tavernier. 217 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Of the Rebellion of the Prince of Jafque, aVattal to the King of'Petfia; 
 in the raigns o/Sha-Sefi I. and Sha Abbas It. 
 
 BEtween Cape Jafyne, and Cape G Hade I which are the two moft Southern points 
 of Per fa, there lies a mountainous and merfhie Country, which extends it 
 felf from the Ocean toward the Province of Kerman, and in feveral places is inae- 
 ceffible. It is poflefs'd by three petty Princes, the one a Mahumetan, the other 
 two toward the Eaft both Idolaters. The firft is the moft potent of the three, 
 and neareft to the Province of Ormw.Yie alfo aflumes the tide of Prince of/*/pe,as 
 his Anceftors did before him. Now after Sha-Abbas the firft had conquer'd Or- 
 inns, he went about to have made himfclf matter of all the coaft that extends it felf 
 beyond Cape fafque ; but meeting with refiftance, he only obtain'd that the Prince 
 of the Country mould acknowledge the King of Per fa for his Lord, and that as his 
 Vaflal he (hould pay him an annual tribute. And indeed during the raign of Sha- 
 Abbas, who knew how to make himfelf fear'd, the Prince of jafque pay'd his tri- 
 bute very orderly. But Sha-Sefi fucceeding his Grandfather very young, this 
 tributary Prince ftiook oft" his yoak, and refus'd to pay. Which not being regard- 
 ed in the raign of Sha Sefi, the Prince of fafque thought to do the fame in the 
 raign of Sha Abbas the fecond. But at length after he had refus'd to pay for fome 
 years, the Kan of Ormm pretending the Country to be under his Jurildidlion, and 
 that the Kings honour was concern'd in the Princes refufal, incited Sha Abbas to 
 fend forces againft him to reduce him to obedience. The King granted the Com- 
 mifllon to him that had undertaken the bufinefs : who prefently gathering toge- 
 ther an Army of 20000 men, the moft part Horfe, thought to have furpriz'd his 
 Enemy .To which purpofe that he might take the neareft way, he march'd direcl:- 
 ly toward Cape Jafque. But as it was the fhorteft cut, it was the moft dangerousj 
 infomuch that the Kan, who hunted all the way he march'd , according to the 
 cuftom of Perfa, had the misfortune to fall into a bogg, where he was ftifl'd, to- 
 gether with 20 or 30 horfemen more. The death of the Kan being divulg'd, the 
 Army retreated back again : but as foon as the King receiv'd the news, he fend 
 the Brother of the deceas'd Kan to fucceed him. In the mean while the Rebel 
 Prince believing within himfelf, that he was not to be thus at quiet, and expecting 
 to be attack'd by the new Kan, ftood upon his guard. And indeed the netv Kan 
 march'd with all the fpeed he could, and enter'd the territories of the rebellious 
 Prince, but being beat'n was fore'd to make more hafte back again to Ormus, with 
 the lofs of an abundance of men. 
 
 The Prince of fafqtte puft up with this fuccefs , did not believe that the Perji- 
 ms would be fo hafty to come again : and thereupon he refolv'd upon a Voyage for 
 Mecca to give the Prophet thanks for his Victory. To which end he embarqu'd 
 at the neareft place he could to Cape Jafque, thence to make fail toward Arabia, 
 But the Governor of Kan underftartding his defign by his fpies, way-laid him by 
 Sea, took him and brought him to Ormm. At that time the heats being excef- 
 five, the Governour was retir'd, according to cuftome, to the Mountains fome 
 ten or twelve Leagues from the City, whither the Prince was carry 'd and brought 
 to the Kans tent. But while the Kan was expecting the return of the Meflenger 
 which he had fent to the King for orders what to do with the Prifner, the Princes 
 wife hearing of her husbands misfortune, and being a woman of a manlike cou- 
 rage, taking along with her about five or fix hundred horfe,with little noife and 
 by long marches fhe at length fell unawares upon the Kan about midnight, kill'l 
 him with her own hand, cut in pieces the greateft part of his men , whom (he 
 found afleep, carry'd away ten or twelve of his Wives, and fet her husband at li- 
 berty in fpite of the Perfians,vrho had not time to rally themfelves. 
 
 The news of this defeat coming to Court, the King being highly incensM, Cent 
 away the third Brother to be governour of Ormw, with fpecial command to the 
 
 Govern 
 
 1 
 
2i 8 The Persian Travels Book V- 
 
 Governours of Schiras, Lar and Herman forthwith to raife 30000 horfe to revenge 
 affront and reduce the Rebel. The Kan of Ormus march'd at the head of that 
 Army, and gave Battel, but the Prince being fuccour'd by the other two Idola- 
 trous Princes his neighbours, the Perfuns were again beaten. Only the Prince of 
 fafque loft his Lieutenant General, a valiant Captain, and a very good Soul- 
 dier. 
 
 The King underftanding that the Lieutenant General was the Kans Prifner, gave 
 him leave to do with him what he would, in revenge of his Brothers death : who 
 thereupon devis'd the moft cruel torments that ever were heard of. For he firlt 
 caus'd the body of the Lieutenant General to be larded with lighted Candles, and 
 then letting him upon a Camel order'd him to be led foftly about the ftreets eve- 
 ry day in the very heat of noon. A torment almoft infutferable, which the hero- 
 ic Indian neverthelefs endur'd with an invincible courage. After the Kan had 
 tormented him in this manner three days together, the chief of the Holland Com- 
 pany and other ftrange Merchants abhorring fo much cruelty, begg'd of the Kan 
 to furceafe his rigour, who readily granted them their requeli 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 Observations tifon the raigne of Sha Soli man the prefent King. 
 
 ALi-Couli-Kan had bin three or four times exiPd from the Court, for fpea king 
 with two much liberty. For he was bold and could not keep his tongue be- 
 tween his teeth. For which reafon he was calPd the Kings Lyon, who was wont 
 to chain him up when he had no occafion for him, and to let him loofe when he 
 had any bufinefs for him to do. The laft time he was exil'd, he was kept five or 
 fix years in a Fortrefs out of which he had never ftirr'd : but one day, having a 
 frnooth tongue, he overperfwaded the Commander to give him leave to go a 
 hunting with him.When he return'd, with the help of fome of his fervants, he fell 
 upon the Commander, and gave him fo many Baltinadoe's upon the feet, that he 
 had like to have kill'd him : telling him withall, that it was to teach him his duty 
 not to let a man go that the King had committed to his charge. Sha 5^/,though 
 very young, hearing of this, and defirous to fee Ali-CouL-Kan, notwithftanding 
 all the endeavours of the Grandees to hinder his return, commanded him to be fet 
 at liberty, and that he mould have a better allowance to live upon. Two or three 
 days after, the King fitting in Council, the whole AfTembly was amaz'd to fee 
 Ali-Couli-Kanemer, who approaching his Majefty with a profound reverence, 
 told him that the Lyon being now let loofe was humbly come to kifs his hands. 
 Thereupon the King fell a laughing, and cafting a favourable glance upon him told 
 him he had done well. • Nor was it long ere the King finding him no lefs pleafant 
 in converfation, then a valiant and expert Captain, made him Generaliffimo of his 
 Armies,as he had bin in the raigne of Sha Abbas. 
 
 When the Court faw Ali-Couli-K an fo well receiv'djevery one then labour'd to 
 teftifie their joy for his return. They fent him Horfes, Mules,Camels,rich Carpets, 
 and every thing fit to furnifh a Lords houfe. But all this while he wanted money, 
 which becaufe he could not meet with among the Perjtans, he was forc'd to have 
 recourfe to the Armenians, of whom he defir'd to borrow five or fix hunder'd 
 Tomans. As for the Kalenter he would have had the fum lent, but the reft would 
 not. Thereupon the King taking a walk to Zulpha, Ali-Couli-Kan put it into 
 his head to go and fee the great Cathedral belonging to the Armenians, where 
 feveral Bifhops with feveral Monks refide.The King entring into the Church, where 
 theBifhop ftood ready at the head of theClergy to receive him,and feeisg all things 
 new and ftrange, as coming but lately out of the womens Haram, ask'd his fa- 
 vourite what fort of people thofe were clad in fuch an extraordinary manner. 
 Ali-Couti-Kan told him they were Devils, Devils ! faid the King, What 1 added 
 hCjdoft bring me into a houfe of DevilslTheK'mg thus iocens'd againft the Armenians, 
 
 re- 
 
Chap. IX. of Monfieur Tavernier. 2 1 9 
 
 refolv'd to force 'em to turn Mahometans. But Ali-Couli-Kan, being a Georgia*,, 
 repenting that he had raisM the Kings indignation to fo high a pitch, and not be- 
 lieving it would be any advantage to him for the Armenians to turn Mah:*metans % 
 contented himfelf only with frighting them,which was enough to bring the Arme- 
 nians upon their knees, and to make them came and beg the Interceiiion of his 
 authority. Which favour, as he order'd it, colt the Armenians ten thouland To- 
 mans to the King, and four or five thoufand Tomans to his Favourite. 
 
 The 23. of September 16-77. the King made a Cavalcade., then which there could 
 be nothing hnagin'd more magnificent. All the richeft Furniture was brought one 
 of the Exchequer into the Meydan. The golden buckets to water the Horfes. The 
 golden Fat out of which they take the water, together with the buckles, harnels 
 and nails of gold, to which the Horfes are ty'd. After the King had play'd at 
 Mall, as I have already defcnb'd, and had alfo (hot at the Goblet upon the top of 
 the Maft in the middle of the Meydan, he went and fate in the Divan, which is 
 over the Gate ca! I'd Alt ' Capi, where he had the paftime to fee Lyons, Bulls, 
 Bears, Tygics and Rams fight. But that which was raoft admirable, was to fee a 
 man ftand upright upon the Saddle while the horfe ran full fpeed, which he did 
 three times the whole length of the Meydan. The firft time, 'tis true, he fell,but 
 the twolaft times heftoodfirm. 
 
 On day the lame Ali-Couli-Kan prefented two handfom Youths to the King, 
 which had both delicate voices. The King hearing them fing, was very much 
 troubl'd that he could not make ufe of them in his H.iram, which Ali-Couli-Kan 
 obferving, lent for a French Chirurgeon, and promis'd him a great reward if he 
 could cut the youths and fave their lives. The Chirurgeon for lucre of a large 
 recompence, cut them both and cur'd 'em very well. Which, done , AU-Couli- 
 Kan, prefented the two youths to the King, who was furpriz'd to fee them, but 
 was well pleas'd that he had got two fuch new attendants in his Hat am. But lee 
 the reward of fuch a wicked action. Ali-Couli-Kan dy'd foon after. The Chir- 
 urgeon never was pay'd : and being advis'd to prefent a Petition to the King by 
 the Meter, the Meter ask'd him whither he would turn Mahometan : which When 
 the Chirurgeon deny'd to do, the Meter bid him be gone like a Rafcal , telling 
 him withall that he did not think the Religion of the Chriftians had permitted 
 fuch afts of villany.The two youths were born at Cajhan^vA had both Fathers and 
 Mothers, and were promis'd in Marriage. When their Parents heard of it, they 
 came to Ifpahan, to weep over their Children. Which the King obferving, to 
 appeafe their forrow, gave them a Penfion during life. 
 
 CKAP. IX. 
 
 Of the Government of Perfia. 
 
 TH E Government of Perfia* is purely Defpotick or Tyrannical. For the King 
 has the fole powre of life and death over all his Sub/efts., independent from 
 his Council, and without any Trials or Law-proceedings. He can put to what 
 death he ple-afes the chief Lords of the Kingdom, no man daring to dilputethe 
 reafon : nor is there any Soveraign in the world more abfolute then the King of 
 Perfia. , 
 
 The King deceafing and leaving Male Iffue behind him, the Eldeft afcends the 
 Throne,while his Brothers are kept in the Haram^nd their eyes are put out: and if 
 there be the leaft fulpicion of any contrivance againft the King, they are forth- 
 with put to death without any farther examination. And not only they, but the 
 Children alfo of theKings Brothers and Sifters.I remember when I firft travell'd in* 
 to Perfia, they were not fo rigorous, but were contented to move a red hot iron 
 to and fro before their eyes. But Sha-Sef perceiving his command had bin neg- 
 ligently executed, and that the poor unhappy Princes had fome fight left them, 
 
 D d he 
 
 1 i 'I'TiUj. \ 
 
22o The Persian Travels Book V. 
 
 he order'd their eyes to be digg'd out of their heads. Sha-Stji's cruelty went 
 yet farther, for he fpar'd not his Eldeft Son Sha Jibfas , the lawful Heir to 
 his Throne, ordering one of his Eunuchs to move an Iron before his eyes,no man 
 being able to tell the reafon.But the Eunuch compaffionating the young Prince,did 
 indeed move an Iron, but not a red hot Iron before his Eyes/and teaching hiia 
 to counterfeit himlelf blind, preferv'd his fight till his Father lay upon his 
 death-bed : at which time his Father was very penitent, for having put out the 
 eyes of his Eldeft Son, to whom the Throne of right belong'd. The Eunuch 
 feeing the King fo fadly afflidted and ready to give up the ghoft, aflur'd him 
 that he would reftore the Prince to his fight, and to comfort him at his death, 
 brought the Prince with perfect eyes to the bed fide. The light cf which pro- 
 long'd the Kings life till next day } and gave him time to command all the Gran- 
 dees of the Court to obey Sha Abbas his Eldeft Son, as his lawful Succeffor and 
 their King. 
 
 But to return to thele blind Princes ; There were feveral at Ifpahan when I was 
 there : and I knew one particularly, who is ftill alive, and is a perfon of ex- 
 cellent natural parts. As blind as he is, he is a great lover of Curiofities, and has 
 built him a Houfe in IJpahan, which is worthy a mans fight. He is overjoy 'd 
 when any perfon brings him any rarities out of Europe, feeling them in his 
 hands, and caufing his Eunuchs, which are very apprehenfive, to tell him the 
 meaning of every thing. He is a great admirer of Clock-work and Watches, 
 and can tell by his finger when a Watch is right in the Cafe. To know what 
 a Clock it is, he has little points fet up in the Dial-plate, and a half hand, to 
 the end he may not be deceiv'd which part of the hand points ro the 
 hour. By means of certain figures which he makes of foft wax, and lets in or- 
 der upon a Table, he will call; up an accompt very exactly. -Several other good 
 qualities I admir'd in him \ and it griev'd me to fee a man redue'd to that 
 miferablc Condition , only becaule he was of the blood Royal of Per- 
 fia. 
 
 Though the Employments of the Kingdom generally fall from Father to Son, 
 yet the King if he pleales may bequeath the Governments of Provinces or any 
 other dignities to any of his Gottlams which are his Slaves , if he find them ca- 
 pable, and thinks they may be fit for his fervice. The Father to leave the Em- 
 ployment to his Family, labours by degrees to introduce his Son, and to obtain 
 the Survivorfhip for him. But if the Father dye, and leaves the Survivorfhip to 
 an Infant, there is generally a perfon of Age and Experience fent along with him. 
 Some there arc alio that obtain employments by prefenting the Favourites at 
 Court. 
 
 The State of Perjta is diftinguifh'd like molt of the European States, into three 
 Bodies. The firft is that of the Sword, which anfwers to the Nobil ity, and com- 
 prehends the Kings houfhold, the Kans, and all the Souldiery. The fecond is that 
 of the Quill, comprehending all thole that belong to the Law and the Courts of 
 
 uftice. The third is compos'd of Merchants, Handicrafts-men and La- 
 
 ourers, 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Chap. X. of Monfieur Taverniel 221 
 
 chap. x. 
 
 Of the firft of the three Orders or States of Perfla , which comprehends 
 the Kings Houftjold*, the Kans or Governours of Provinces , and the 
 Souldiery. 
 
 THE Primier Minifter of the Kingdom iscall'd Athemadoulet y or the fupport 
 of Riches. His office is the fame with the Grand Viz.ir's in Turkie, and may 
 be compar'd to the ancient Mayors of the Palace in France. In regard all the af- 
 fairs of the Kingdom pafs through his hands, he ought to be rather a Gownman 
 then a Souldier : and herein he only differs from the Grand Viz*ier t who is always 
 to be at the head of the Army, and for every flight fault or diftafte is fubjecT: to 
 beftrangl'd by the Grand Signior, Whereas in Perjia where the Government is 
 milder, the Prime Minilters generally dye in their beds, or if they are Depos'd, 
 they are only exil'd to fome frontier City, where they live as private 
 men. 
 
 When the King is young, the Prime Minifter has a hard game to play, for then 
 the Favourite Eunuchs and the Sultanelles difannul and cancel In the night what- 
 ever orders he makes in the day time. 
 
 The Naz.ar or Seer has the charge of all the Kings goods, of his breeds' of hor- 
 fes, of his moveables, of his Cloaths and Plate : much like the grand Mafter of 
 the Kings Houfe in France. 
 
 The Mehter, who is always a white Eunuch, is the firft Gentleman of the Kings 
 Chamber, and follows the King with a kind of bag hanging by his lide full of 
 handkerchiefs. And as he is always at the Kings elbow, if he have the Kings 
 ear, it is eafie for him to befriend or do unkindnelfes, as his inclination leads him. 
 During the minority of the King, fome of thefe Mehters have been known to go- 
 vern the Kingdom. 
 
 The Mit-Akhgr-Bajhi, or Grand Efquire, has the Charge of the Kings Stables, 
 which as well as the Gate ofAli-Capri, are a place of Refuge, and whoever feves 
 himfelf therein, let it be for Murther or Debt is fafe. All the Horfes in the Kings 
 Stable are mark'd with a hot iron upon the left hip, and thofe that belong to pri- 
 vate perfons upon the right. Thofe that the King gives to them that ferve in his 
 Armies, have the Kings mark, and are not to be fold,, but they may be chaffer'd 
 away. If any of thofe Horfes happens to dye in a Horfe-mans hands, he mult 
 flea off the Kings mark,, and carry it to the under Officers of the General of the 
 Cavalry, to have another, otherwife he would be forc'd to buy another at his 
 own expences. Thofe people by laying the skin in the water, know, though by 
 what art I cannot tell, whither the Horfe dy'd of age or ficknefs, or whither he 
 were malitioufly kilPd. For in times of Peace there are fome Horfemen that will 
 kill their Horfes, to fave the Charges of keeping any more than themfelves : then 
 at the next Mufter they bring the skin of their Horfe 3 with the mark on,to the Of- 
 ficers, and get another, unlels they be found out. Nor are their Horfes only 
 mark'd, but their Scimitars, Mufquets, Bows and Quivers, all which they muft 
 fhew to the Commiffioners every Mufter. 
 
 Sha-Abbas the fecond being at CW*» in the year 165-4, took a general view 
 of his Cavalry, which lafted for ten or twelve days. For the King fitting in the 
 Portal of one of his Gardens, with his Officers Handing about him, every day 
 caus'd fo many troopers to ride by him : which were all ftout a&ive men and well 
 mounted. Every Souldier gallop'd fingly by him $ and coming juft under the 
 King, he (hot an Arrow againft a -Butt of Turf that was thrown up upon his left 
 hand, and when the Mufter was over, the King advanc'd the Pay of every Horfe- 
 man, who according to the fentence of the Judges had fliot neareft the 
 mark. 
 
 I was then at Casbin, and I remember one Souldier, who quite contrary to what 
 the other Horfe-men did, walk'd his Horfe along by the King, and never mot, but 
 only lay'd his hand upon his breft, and then upon his forehead , which is the 
 
 Dd 2 Cere^ 
 
222 The Persian Travels Book V. 
 
 Ceremony of Salutation us'd by the King. He was a very homely fellow, with 
 a flat tawny countenance : fo that his behaviour and his prefence offending the 
 King, in a chafe he commanded that black rafcal to be cafhier'd out of his fervice. 
 Immediately they took away his Horfe and his Arms, and were going about to 
 havedrubb'd him,but that the General of the Cavalry made them a fign to let 
 him alone. Immediately the General gave the King to underftand that he was 
 one of the beft Souldiers in the Army : as he had fignalJy made it appear at the 
 Sieges of Erivan and Candahar. Upon that the King cause! his Horfe and Arms 
 to be reftorM him again, and commanded him to ride by him as the reft of the 
 Souldiers had done. When he came againft the Butt, inftead of obeying the Kings 
 command, he turn'd his Horfe to the right and left, without faying a word. The 
 General fearing he would offend the King again, bid him fhoot. What JhallJJhoot 
 at ; Sir faid he. Againft the place where all the reft have Jhot, anfwer'id the Gene- 
 ral. Then the Souldier making his head and fmiling, "Tis not my way, faid he, to 
 fpend my Arrows againft a wall; for I know how to make ufe of 'em better against the 
 body or head of the Enemies of my King. I would then Jhoct thrtce before another 
 could fhoot once. At the fame time he draws out two Arrows out of his Quiver, 
 one of which he held in his mouth, and put the other to his bow : and then fet- 
 ting fpurs to his Horfe he out- rid the Butt for the nonce, to moot backward, 
 which he did, and hit the very middle of the white, then turning his horfes head 
 and parting the Butt as before, he mot the fecond Arrow into the fame hole, 
 whence they had pull'd the firft Arrow. Then the General approaching near the 
 King, told him that by what he had heard and feen, he might well believe that 
 Horfeman to be as brave a Souldier as any in the Army : which his Majefty con- 
 fefs'd, and from three Tomans advane'd his pay to i j Tomans. 
 
 The Mir-Shikar-Bafhi, or the Grand Mafter of the Hunt, who is alfo employ'd 
 as Grand Falconer. He has under him a thoufand Officers, and a great number of 
 Birds of prey,and manag'd Hawks. 
 
 The Seguan Bajhi receives the orders of the Grand Mafter of the Hunt. He has 
 charge of the Dogg.«, Lyons, Leopards, and other Bealts for Chace. 
 
 The Kindar Bafhi, who has charge of the Kings Saddfes. 
 
 The Zmkan-CoHrlfhif is the chief of the Querries, that hold the Kings ftirrup, 
 when he gets a Horfeback. 
 
 The Kelege-Conrljhiji carrys the Kings fword. 
 
 The Oriaje-Coarlfhiji carrys his Bow and Arrows. 
 
 The Vakanviez. is as it were the chief Secretary of State : an employment never 
 conferr'd but upon a Favourite. He alfo reads all Petitions and Papers that are re- 
 prefented to the King. 
 
 The Kafnaiar-Bafhi is he that keeps all the Money which is in the Kings Cof- 
 fers, whom we call the High Treafurer. 
 
 The Ifhi^-Agaft-Ba/hi is the Grand Mafter of the Houfhold,who has feveral Of- 
 ficers under him. 
 
 The Mehmender Bafl.n is the Mafter of the Ceremonies. 
 
 The Hakim-Bajln is the Kings chief Phylitian,by whofe allowance all the Phy fiti- 
 ans of the Kingdom are Iicens'd. 
 
 The Munedgin Bajhi is the chief of the Aftrologers. 
 
 The Divan-Bequi is the chief Jufticiar, as well in Civil as in Criminal cables, and 
 he keeps his Court either in AH Capi, or in the Kings Houfe, where his Majefty 
 fometimes prefides himfelf when he pleafes. Before him as being an Officer of 
 great Authority all the Criminals in the Kingdom make their appearand he makes 
 out procefs againft the Kant^nd other Grandees of Perfta. 
 
 The Deroga is much like the Lieutenant Criminal in France, from whom it is 
 lawful to appeal before the Divan Bequi. He has an eye upon Robberies, Batte- 
 ries and Murthers, and he has power to fupprefs Houfes of Debauchery. If he 
 catch any debauch'd perfbns, he has power to give them the Baftinado, or to fine 
 them : and molt commonly he fpares corporal chaftifement to punifh their pur- 
 fes. 
 
 The Sofragi-Bafoi is he that fpreads the Sofra before the King. 
 TheChirakgi-Bafoi is he that has charge of the Wine : chiefly theSchiras wine, 
 which is particularly kept for the King, who feldom drinks any other. Nor can 
 
 any 
 
Chap. X. of Monfieur Tavernier. 223 
 
 any particular perfon in Schiras make Wine till the Court be firft ferv'd, and that 
 with the leave of the Chirategi-Bajhi j there being none but the Franks and fevvs 
 that make it. 
 
 The Mejheal-Bajhi is the chief of the Torch-bearers ; who furnifhes the 
 Court with Candles, which are all of Wax. To this Mejheal-Bajhi belong all the 
 fines of thofe that play at Cards or Dice, the Law of Mahomet forbidding all 
 Games of hazard. This Officer has feveral inferior Officers under him, who go 
 from place to place to fpy where they can find any perfbns at play : and he has 
 power to break open any houfe, unlefs the Matter be of great Quality. 
 
 The Kahnergi-Bajhi is he that has care of the Kabue, the Rote- water, and 
 other diftillations which the Perfians drink j as Bdmijhe, made of the buds of 
 brown Sallows. 
 
 The Kara-Setajbe is the King's Chirurgeon, or Barber, who lets him Blood, and 
 (haves his Head j and cannot part with his place to another. 
 
 The C<tpigi-Bajhi is the great Porter, who has under him feveral other Of- 
 ficers. 
 
 The Melikpltugagear is he that has charge of the Stuffs for the King's Houfliold, 
 and puts them out to the Taylors. He takes an account of the fhreds and old ha- 
 bits, which ferve to make Clothes for the Souldiers, deducting for them out of 
 their pay. 
 
 The Gelander-Bajln is the chief of the Foot-men. 
 
 The Mir-a'oe, or the Prince of the Seals, is the Superintendent of the Seals 5 
 and for profit, is one of the belt employments in the Kingdom. He has the fale 
 of the Canal-water to the Countrey-men j for which he makes the Farmers pay 
 a fevere rate. 
 
 The Karkrone is the Houfe for the Royal Manufactures, where the Gold and 
 Silver-Carpets are made, as alfo thole of Silks and Worfted, together with Tif- 
 fues, Velvets, and Taffeta's. There are other Workmen that make Coats of Mail, 
 Bows, Arrows, Scimitars, and other Arms. In other Apartments are Limners 
 that paint in Water-colours - t Lapidaries, and Goldfmiths, that only make Silver- 
 Rings. For in regard the Perfians cannot fay their Prayers when they have any 
 Gold about 'em, they never wear Jewel or Ring of Gold, becaufc it would be 
 troublefbme to pull 'era off, and lay 'em up fo many times a-day. And therefore 
 the King of Perfia caufes all his Jewels to be fet in Silver, as we fet all our Stones 
 in Gold. As for working Goldfmiths, they have none in Perfia ; all their Gold 
 and Silver-PIate being wrought by the Copper-fmiths in round figure, for they 
 have not the art to frame an Oval. 
 
 The Nak^ajbe-Bajhi is the Serjeant-Painter, who only works in miniature j 
 they cover their Pictures with a Varnifh made of Maftich fteep'd in a certain Oil 
 that diftills from a Rock that points upon the Cafpiaa-Sez not far from Shamatri. 
 It diftills out of the Rock at firft like water j but afterwards it thickens till it be- 
 come as thick as Sdllet-Oil, preferving ftill its whitenefs. There are alfo three 
 other Rocks not far from the former, from whence this Oil diftills 5 but it is 
 thicker, and of darker colour. 
 
 The Negeacb-Bajhi is the chief of the Joyners. 
 
 The Embardar-Bajhi has the charge of the King's Granaries^ and other Provi- 
 fions, having feveral Officers under him. 
 The Odo,idar-Bajhi is the Mafter of the Woodyard. 
 
 The moft part of thefe Officers have their diet in the King's Houfe, or elfe an 
 allowance of Diet from thence. 
 
 The Tnjhemal-Bajhi is the Clerk of the Kitchen. He orders what fhall be 
 fervM up to the King, and when the Table is clear'd, he fticks his Knife in the beft 
 difh,and orders it to be carri'd home to his own Houfe. 
 
 Now for the Officers of War, the principal are j Firft, the Sepeh-Salar, Gene- 
 ralifiimo of the King of Perfians Armies, who is never conftituted but in time of 
 War ; which being ended, his employment ceafes. His place in Council is im- 
 mediately next to the AthemadoHlet. 
 
 Now in regard the Militia is divided into three forts, there are alfo three Ge- 
 nerals. The three Bodies of the Militia are the Corfcbis, the Gonlams, and the 
 
 Tufenlegisi 
 
 The 
 
224. The Persian Travels Book V 
 
 The Corfchis are defcended from a forreign race, which have ftill a great repute 
 for their Valour. Thefe people live in Tents, like the Turcomans and they fend 
 their Youth betimes to the King. They furnifh their Youth alfo with all necef- 
 faries, and maintain them till they come to be taken notice of by the King. They 
 are all Horfe-men, well paid, and well look'd to, and are many times advane'd to 
 the Supreme Dignities of the Kingdom. They are generally call'd Kefel-Bajhi t 
 or Red-heads, becaufe that formerly they wore red Bonnets. It is faid that the 
 King has about 22000 of thefe Corchis in pay, all good Souldiers, that do won- 
 ders in Battel. Sha-Abbas the firft did what he could to abolifh this Militia, and 
 to fet up the Goulams in their ftead. His hatred againft them was only becaufe 
 he thought them too powerful ; for he was wont to fay to his Favourites, that 
 nothing but the Puiffance of the Corchis, could oppofe the Royal Power. There- 
 upon he took away fome of their Priviledges, and gave them to the Doulams j 
 but he could not bring about his defign any farther. 
 
 The General of the Corchis is call'd Corfchi-Bajhi, and ought to be one of their 
 Body 5 nor can the King irapofe another upon them. The Mim-Bajhi commands 
 a thoufand Men, the Yux-Bajhi commands a hundred, and the Om-Ba/ki com- 
 mands ten. The Corfcbi-Bafhi has 1 jo Tomans a year ; the Mim-Bajhi fixty-two j 
 the Tnx.-Bajhi thirty, and the Om-Bajhi fifteen. The pay of every Horfe-man is 
 from nine to fifteen Tomans a year. Befides, every year the King makes a gene- 
 ral Mufter, and then he gives to the Corfchis a third part more than their ufual 
 pay j however, to fome more, to others lefs, either according to favour or merit. 
 When the King has refolv'd to put a great Man to death, he commits the execu- 
 tion of his command to a Corfcki. 
 
 The Gouler-Agafi is General of the Goulams, or Slaves. For indeed they are 
 either Slaves, or the Sons of Slaves of all forts of Nations, who do the King ve- 
 ry good Service They are for the moft part runnegade Georgians ■, and there are 
 about 18000 of thefe Goulams, being all Horfe-men } whofe pay is from five to 
 eight Tomans a year. The Corfchis are very good Husbands ; but the Goulams, as 
 foon as they have receiv'd their pay., fall a drinking and fwaggering ; whereas the 
 other, if he has a Piafter to fpare, will buy a Sheep with it : For in regard they 
 live in Tents, their Riches confifts in Flocks. The gleateft part of the Court of 
 Verfia is made up of thefe two Bodies. The Goulams have this peculiar to them- 
 felves, that they are very rarely known to revolt. For being all Slaves, and of 
 different Nations, there are no ties of Affeftion or Kindred between them : And 
 if the King has an oecafion to punifh any of them, the chief of their Body is to 
 execute his orders. The Goulams carry no other Arms befides a Bow and Ar- 
 rows, with a Skain. Though fome wear Coats of Mail, and Head-pieces : others 
 Vambraces and Battel-Axes. Thefe Horfe-men never entrench in the Field like 
 ours in Europe, nor have they any Field- Marfhals to afTign them quarters. For 
 after the chief have taken up the beft places, the reft fet up their Tents as neer 
 as they can to the Pavillion of the General. 
 
 The Tufenkgiler-Agafi is the General of the Tufettkgis, who compofe the third 
 Body of the Militia. This part of the Souldiery was but lately inftituted, being 
 compos'd of men taken from the Plough, as being moft fit for labour. They are 
 Foot-men With only a Scimiter and a Musket. But when they march, they have 
 a Horfe or a Mule between three or four, to carry their Baggage and Provifions. 
 Their pay is not above four or five Tomans a year. And for their Officers, their 
 pay is more or lefs according to their Quality and Commagd. They are in no 
 great reputation, being laugh'd at by the old Souldiers, as being a company of 
 poor Countrey-men, that dare not look an enemy in the face. Not but that the 
 Infantry of Verfia is able to do good fervice ; though, as numerous as they are, 
 the King never makes ufe of them, but in cafe of neceffity. When he marches in 
 perfon, he fends for eight or ten thoufand, which he fends for out of what Province 
 beft pleafes him, and fhey prove very ufeful to the Army, as Sutlers. This Infan- 
 try is compos'd of the Countrey-men that live in Tents, abiding in the Mountains 
 all the Summer, and betaking themfelves in the Winter to the hot Countrreys. 
 Every Tribe or Family knows how many men it ought to fet our. And there is 
 not a Foot-man that has not his new-Suit in his Cheft, and his Musket and Scimi- 
 ter in very good order. They are well train'd, and well difciplin'dj for every 
 
 three 
 
Chap. VII of Monlieur Tavernier. 225 
 
 three months the Governor of the Province takes a review of all the Souldiers 
 in his Province, and caufes them to be exercis'd in his own prefence. They are 
 order'd to moot at a mark, and they that hit it, are fure to have fome reward 
 from the Governor. When the King fends for any part of his Infantry, they pre- 
 fently know who is to lead 'em ; and they are all lufty, and well clad, never put- 
 ting on their beft Clothes but when they mufter, or march into the Field. They 
 pay to the King little or nothing : for of all their Cattel great and fmall, they pay 
 but one in the hundred to him, and one Abajfi, or 18 Sous of our Money. 
 
 The EJhek^AgaJi, or chief of the Kejheksbi's, who are the King's Guards, and 
 carry a Musket with a very wide bore. They were but lately inftituted by the 
 uithemat-doulet, when he intended to deftroy the Divan-begui. This Officer has 
 about 2000 men under him, of which be difpofes every night a certain number, 
 round about the Palace. When the King fits in Council, he ftands there with a 
 Battoon in his hand, and throws himfelf to the ground when the King beckons to 
 him to come and receive any command from his mouth. The Topigi-Ba/hi is the 
 Mafter of the Ordnance, and chief of the Sea-afFairs, but he has Jittle to do in 
 cither employment. For, as for the Cannon, there are only feme two Or three 
 pittiful Guns in fome of the Frontier-towns : And for Ships, there are none ifr 
 Perjis but what come from Europe or the Indies to Ormns or Balfara. The Per- 
 fians themfelves have no other Ships than fome few large Barks in the Perfan- 
 Gulph, and in fome parts of the Cafpian-Sez, where they keep a Fleet againft the 
 Usbeck^ Tartars, the Kalmoukes, and other people. 
 
 As for the Kaus or Governors of Provinces, they are generally chofen out of 
 the body of Corfchi's and Goulams ; who are handfom perfons, and generally much 
 more Valiant than the natural Perfans. For the natural complexion of the Per- 
 fians is not good, as may be feen by the Games, the original Inhabitants of the 
 Countrey, who are for the moft part tann'd, and ill-fhap'd. So that there is hardly 
 a Perjian, from the King to the meaneft of his Subjects, who is not a Georgian } or 
 lprung from the loins of Georgians. For they fetch a great number of Slaves 
 out of Georgia ; by the frequent Marriages of whichwomen, the Georgian Valour 
 and Beauty are become Natives of Perfia. 
 
 The Kans or Governors of Provinces are as fo many petty Kings, fear'd and re- 
 fpeded by all the people. And when they are fettl'd, they are never depos'd, but 
 upon repeated complaints of their exceffive Tyranny. There are fome of thefe 
 Governments that yield the Kan feven or eight thoufand Tomans. But they are 
 bound to prefent the King every year at Nourons, or New-years- tide. 
 
 Under the Kans there are alfo Governors of lefTer quality, who are alfo im- 
 mediately preferr'd by the King, and cannot be depos'd by any perfon but him- 
 felf. If they abufe their Authority, the complaints brought againft him are firft 
 carri'd to the Kan, ; which, if they concern the Government of the Kingdom., 
 the Kan is bound to inform the King thereof. But if the complaints are not 
 considerable, then the Kan may do Juftice himfelf, and make the Sultans know 
 their duty. 
 
 There is yet a third fort of Governors, call'd Afipbs, who are the King's Lieu- 
 tenants in places where he had Kans\n former times ; or where he ought to have 
 them ftill, but only to fave charges. For in the Provinces where Kans Govern, 
 they and their Officers, almoft equalling in name and number the Officers of the 
 King's Houfhold, devour all the profits of the Province, but what the Kan is ob- 
 lig'd annually to pay. 
 
 By what I have wrote as well concerning the King's Houfhold, the Governors 
 of his Provinces, and the Officers of his Army, it may be eafily concluded that 
 the King of Perjia's Court is the moft magnificent and glorious of all the Courts 
 of utjia 5 and befides, that it is the moft Polite and Civil of all the Orients 
 
226 
 
 The Persian Travels Book V 
 
 chap. xr. 
 
 Of the fecond Order, containing all thofe that 'belong to the Ecclefiafli- 
 cal Law, and their Courts of Jufftce ; and, in general, of all the 
 Gown-men ; fuch as are chiefly the Officers of the Chamber of Ac- 
 counts. 
 
 TH E fecond of the three Eftates of Perfia comprehends the Gown-men, fuch 
 as are the Doctors of the Law^ the Officers of Juftice, and thole of the 
 Chamber of Accounts. 
 
 As the Atbemat-doulet is the Prime Minifter in Temporals, the Sedre is the 
 Prime Minifter in Spirituals, and the High-Prieft of the Law. However, he does 
 not pretend to take place before the Athemat-doulet either in Council, or in the 
 publick Ceremonies. There is this difference between the Sedre and the Mufti in 
 Turkey, that in Perfia Ecclefiaftical Dignities are ho bar from Civil Employments j 
 fo that the Sedre is many times made Athemat-doulet. 
 
 The Dignity of Sedre is not limited to one fingle perfon, but may be divided 
 between two, in regard there are two forts of Legacies, the one from the King's 
 of Perfia, the other from particular perfons. Therefore for the more careful 
 Superintendency over thefe two forts of Legacies., there are fometimes two S<?~ 
 dres appointed. The one is call'd Sedre-Kras, particular or peculiar Sedre, who 
 manages all the Revenues of the Royal Foundations, and diftributes them to the 
 Mullaks and Students according to their merit. The other is call'd Sedre- J-man" 
 koufat^vtho has the management of private Foundations. In the year 1667 the 
 King created two Sedres, and marri'd them to two of his Sifters. 
 
 The Sedre has two men under him, whofe Authority is almoft equal to 
 theirs. The one is call'd Sbeii^el-fehm, and the other Cadi : and thefe are 
 they that decide all controversies in Religionjudge of Divorces, make Contracts 
 and publick Afts. Thefe two Dignities are in the King's nomination : and in all 
 the principal Cities of the Kingdom there are two of thefe Eccleliaftical Judges 
 for all matters that concern the Law. 
 
 To every Mofquee there belongs a Pichnamax.^ who is always firft there before 
 Prayers begin j and he teaches the people to Pray by learning of him,having their 
 eyes always flx'd upon him to that end. This Picknamaz. is the fame with him 
 whom the Turks call Jman. # The Moullah's are the Doctors of the Law, as are 
 the Hodgia's in Turkey, and they are well paid out of the Legacies giv'n to the 
 Mofquees, for reading every Friday, and interpreting the Alcoran to the people. 
 He that reads, fits in one Chair ; and he that interprets, in another, fomewhar 
 lower upon the left-hand of the Reader. They are alfo bound to teach the Sci- 
 ences to all thofe that require it : and, as a mark of San&ity, they wear a great 
 white Turbant, with a fingle Chamjet-habit of the fame colour. Their gate is 
 grave, and their difcourfe very ferious ; yet all this is but pure hypocrify. When 
 they light into any considerable company of people, they prefently rife, and ex- 
 hort 'em to go to Prayers. At the lame time they wafti their heads, their hands, 
 and their feet, and Ipread a felt upon the ground, or if they are poor, a fingle 
 mat. Upon this, at one end, the Maulla kneels at the other lies a flat Stone about 
 the bignefs of the paulm of a man's hand, which was brought from Mecca. 
 Which Stones the Moullah's always carry about 'em ; for being commanded 
 yvhile they are at their devotions often to kils the ground, they rather choofe 
 to kils a Stone brought from fo holy a place, than the prophane Earth. They 
 have a kind of a Mariners compafs, which directs them punctually where Mecca 
 ftands, to the end they may know which way to turn when they fay their Prayers. 
 The Prayer which the MoulUs make, feems to be accompani'd with a great deal 
 of zeal, and they take great notice all the while whether the company be atten- 
 tive or no. Some Perfans are fo fuperftitious, that a Viur of Schiras fulfer'd 
 his leg to rot off, becaule he would not let a Chriftian Chirurgeon touch him, for 
 fear of being defil'd. 
 
 There 
 
Chap. XI. of Monfieur Taverniel 227 
 
 There belongs alfo to every Mofcjuee a Monteveli, who looks after the repairs 
 of the Building, and the Provifion of what belongs to the Mofyuee ; together 
 with a Monaz*en, who cries morning and evening from the top of a Tower, That 
 there is but one God, and that Mahomet is his Prophet. 
 
 Colledges, the Perfians call Medrefe; where there are a great number of Scholars 
 bred up at little charge, out of the Legacies left to the Foundations. They al- 
 low them a Chamber without any Furniture, they being to provide a Coverlet 
 and a Mattrcfs for themfelves. They have no certain Mafters , but fometimes 
 they go for their inftructions to one, fometimes to another, feldom to the Princi- 
 pal of the Colledg, who is call'd Monderes, and is generally the greatett Block- 
 head of them all. But there are feveral other perfons in every good City 
 that are forward to teach the Sciences to purchafe honour to themfelves. 
 For which reafon - they are very liberal, to get a great company of Fol- 
 lowers together, who are as fo many Trumpets to publifh the wifdom of their 
 Akroom or Doctor. But when their Liberality ceafes, the Trumpets want breath at 
 the fame time. 
 
 Now, as to their manner of ftudying, the Student firft reads two or three lines, 
 and then the Doctor Expounds. Then another reads two or three lines more, and 
 fo one after another; every one rifing up out of refpect afrer he has done reading, 
 and ftanding upright till the Doctor bids him fit down again. One of thefe 
 Doctors (hall teach all manner of Sciences in one day ; for he is not learned that 
 cannot talk of all. And certainly had the Perfians thofe advantages of Books, and 
 that method of ftudy which we have in Europe, they would prove to be men of 
 great underftanding : for with thofe little helps they have, they will give a good 
 account of their own Theology, of Logick, Phyfick, and the Mathematicks, 
 wherein they ftrive to reach the bottom of things as deep as they can. Their 
 Books are for the moft part the works of an ancient Perjian Author, whole name 
 was Kodgia Nefir in the City of Thovfs s in the Province of Korajfan. Tis very 
 probable he was well skill'd in the Greeks and Arabic^, having tranflated into Per- 
 jian feveral Books out of thofe two Languages. They have fome pieces of Ari- 
 fiotle which are accounted the beft ih the Weft : The Almag'ftes of Ptolemy, which 
 they call Afagefti ; fome tractates of Euclide, fome fragments of Archimedes : 
 the Opticks of Ebne, Heijler, and other excellent Books. Some have affirm'd 
 that they have been skill'd in the doctrin of Sines and Tangents for above this 800 
 years : and indeed they are very curious at this day in Mathematical Inftruments. 
 They have alfb a great inclination to Poetry, the chiefeft grace whereof they be- 
 lieve to confift in defign of accidents, and high companions, obferving rhime as we 
 do. As for Phyfick, they have Galen, whom they call Galenous ; Averroes, whom 
 they call Aboualt, or great Father ; and Hermes Trifmegiftus, whom they call Or- 
 thoms. The moft considerable of their Hiftorians is Bonz,e el Sapha, who wrote a 
 Chronology from the Creation of the World to his time j wherein there are 
 abundance of fables, but little truth. He fays that the World was inhabited by 
 Devils for an infinite number of years before the Creation of Adam, and that God 
 for their enormities depriv'd them of their power upon earth, and gave it to man 
 to manage. Their Books, though deer, are very common, and every Trades-man 
 buys 'em, being very ambitious to learn the Sciences themfelves, and to encou- 
 rage their children to do fo too. They fend them betimes to the School, which 
 they call Meklebe, of which there are feveral in every Quarter. They make a 
 hideous noife in their Schools, repeating their LefTons altogether aloud, while the 
 Mafter corrects every Boy that does not keep along with the Cry. As for the 
 children of perfons of Quality, they have Tutors at home, never ftirring out 
 of doors till they are 18 years of age, unlefs it be to go a hunting or a moot- 
 ing now and them. Hence it comes to pafs, that the Children are difcreet, civil 
 and modeft } fo that you fhall never hear an ill word come out of their 
 mouths. 
 
 In the Chamber of Accounts are many Officers, whom I look upori as Gown- 
 men. AU the Books and Regifters pafs through their hands, particularly fuch Pa- 
 pers as concern'd the King's Revenue. All which are regifter'd in the Chamber of 
 Accounts at Ifpahan, which is call'd Defter- Krone. As to the Fee- Lands call'd 
 Aionlkerbar, which belong to particular perfons, they owe to the Kiag a certain 
 
 E e annual 
 
The Persian Travels Book V. 
 
 annual Rent, which the Governors of Provinces exa<5t with a fevere extorti- 
 on. 
 
 The Meflempti and the Memalek^ are they that value the Rent of all Lands 
 in Demefn, which is one of the principal charges of the Defter- Kroon. They 
 alfo take cognifance of all the King's Farms, Quit-Rents, Provifions and Ex- 
 pences of Receivers and Collectors. There is alio a Meflempti to value Lega- 
 cies. 
 
 The Naz.er controuls the Meflempti and the Memalek^, and his hand is requir'd 
 to all Papers of difpatch. 
 
 The Deroga or Provoft of the Defter- Kroon is to profecute and punilh all that 
 are guilty of falfe Receipts, or of Exaction. 
 
 Into this Office are delivered all the Grants and Aftignations of the wages of 
 the King's Officers. Every man comes and receives his own; or fends for it to 
 thole places upon which this Money is affign'd. 
 
 In every Village or Borough there is a K.is } or chief of the place, to whom 
 the Officers apply themlelves for their Money : for mould thev terrify the 
 Countrey-man,, he would run quite away, and pay nothing. The greareft cheat in 
 this Chamber of Accounts, is, that in regard the Officers keep the Roll of the 
 Officers wages, they will give them divers Bills to receive little parcels at ieveral 
 places diftant from one another, till the Sum be made up ; to which trouble rather 
 than the Kings fervant will be put,he will give a good gratuity to the Officer to pay 
 him all together. But becaule the Officers are not able to fatisfy all that come, there 
 are certain Thahsilders or hoarders up of Rent, who buy for ready Money as cheap 
 as they can, fuch Bills as private men come to receive at the Chamber ; and when 
 they have got a good number together, they go and receive them altogether at 
 the Chamber, and make great advantage. By this milgovernment of the D ftcr- 
 Kroon, feveral perfons are very much oppreft. For he that has but 30 Tomans a 
 year, (hall be fore'd to give a good (hare out of it to have the reft in ready Mo- 
 ney j which has been often the ruine of the Per pan Army, through the abules 
 and defalcations put upon the poor Souldiers. During the Reign of Sba-Abbas, 
 the 1 j and toward the beginning of the Reign of Sha-Sefi his Son, the Exche- 
 quer was better regulated ; but when the Perfiws came to be at Peace with their 
 Neighbours, the King and his Lords have minded nothing lefs than the payment 
 of the Souldiery. 
 
 The greareft part of the Lands in Perfia belong to the King^ and are only farm'd 
 by private perfons. The reft of the Lands are meafur'd, and every Lard pays To 
 much a meafure. The King alfo has a vaft income by the Merchandizes that 
 pay Cuftom and Toll. The Port of Bander- Abaffl alone brings him one year 
 with another, when leaft, befides accidents, neer upon 20000 Tomans. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Chap.XII of Monfieur Taverniel 229 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Of the third Eftate of the Kingdom, comprehending the- Tradesmen and 
 Merchants.- as alfo of the Trades, Manufactures , and Commodates 
 oj Perfia. 
 
 THe Commerce of Perfians in all other Kingdoms, confifts in the Trade of the 
 Country and Forraign Traffick. Only with diherence , that the Country 
 Trade is in the hands of the Perfians and fevvs, the forraign Traffic in the hands 
 of the Armenians only., who are as it were the Kings and the Noble mens Fa- 
 ctors to fell their fifk. 
 
 As for the Handicraft trades, there are fome Corporations that pay a certain 
 yearly duty to the King, as Shoemakers, Cutlers, Smiths,and others. Some are 
 free, as the Joyners and Mafbns : though he get by their labour as much as others 
 pay him in money.For when the King requires twenty Mafons for a work which is 
 in haft, the Marmar Bajhi who is their Chief, fummons them together, and they 
 that give moft are excus'd. For when the King requires but twenty, he fummons 
 forty : and thus every man lives by his calling. The practice is the fame with the 
 Chief of the Joyners, and all other Trades, who are Officers pay'd by the King, 
 and never work unlets they pleafe themfelves, commanding all that are under their 
 Jurilcliction. As for Carpenters and Joyners work, the Perfians know little what 
 belongs to it, which proceeds from the fcarcity of Wood 3 that does not allow 
 them materials to work upon. So that for Chairs, Tables and Bedfteads , there 
 are no fuch things to be feen in Perfia : the Joyners bufinefs being only to make 1 
 Doors and Frames for Windows, which they make very neatly of feveral pieces 
 of wood join'd together, fb that a man can hardly put a Tennis Ball through the 
 holes where they put the glafs. Nor can it be expected that the Perfians (hould 
 work like other Europeans , having no other Tools then a Hatchet, a Saw, and a 
 Chizzel , and one fort of Plainer,which a Frenchman brought among them. 
 
 Their nobler Arts are Writing, for Printers they know none. All their Books 
 are writt'n, which is the reafon they fo much efteem that Art. There was art 
 Armenian who had fet up a Printing-Prefs at Ifpahan y and had Printed the Epiftles 
 of St. Paul, the (even Penitential Pfalms, and was going about to Print the whole 
 Bible, but not having the way of making good Ink, and to avoid the ill confequen- 
 ces of the Invention, he was fore'd to break his Prefs. For on the one fide the 
 Children refus'd to learn to write, pretending they wrote the Bible themfeh r es,on- 
 ly to get it the fooner by heart : on the other fide many perfons were undone by 
 ir,that got their living by writing. 
 
 The Per/tans ufe three forts of hands, the firft is calfd Nefialickjov the Set-hand : 
 the fecond Sbakcfte or Divanni, which is their Court-hand : the third Neskre, or 
 the Running-hand, very like the Arabic. They write with fmall Indian Reeds j 
 and fay, that to write well,a man ought to lean fo flightly upon his Pen,that fhould 
 a fly ftand upon the other end it would fall out of his hand. When they write they 
 hold their Paper in one hand to turn it according to the motion of the Pen, other- 
 wife they could not make their dafhes large and free, as the Character requires. 
 They make their Paper of Cotton Fuftian, very courfe, brown, and ofnoftrcngth, 
 for the leaft folding tears it. They fleek it with a fleek ftone, and then rub it over 
 to make it more fleek. Their Ink is made of Galls and Charcoal pounded together 
 with Soot. 
 
 The Perfians reck'n four Languages among 'em. The Perfian call'd Belick , that 
 is,fweet and pleafing. The 7>\^>,call'd Sciafcet, or the Rodomontado Language. 
 The Arabian^ which they give the Epithite of Fejchijh or Eloquent : and the 
 fourth, call'd Cobabet.or the Speech of the Country people. The Perfian in ufe 
 among the Gentry is compos'd almoft of all Arabic words : by reafon that the 
 Perfian is very barren. But the Gibbrifh of the Country people is fo corrupt that 
 they in the City can hardly underftand 'em. The Arabian is the Language of the 
 Learned, in which tongue their Books are written. The Language of the Court 
 
 E e z is 
 
230 The Persian Travels Book V. 
 
 is Turkjjh, but much more foft and elegant then at Confantineple. As for the 
 P erf an Language, it is fpoken in the Courts of the Great Mogul, and the Kings of 
 Golconda and Vtfipour, in all which Courts a Noble man would take it for an af- 
 front to be fpok'n to in the Indian Language. 
 
 As for their Painters they only paint in miniature, and for Birds and Flowers 
 they will draw them indifferently well : But for figures and ftories they know not 
 what belongs to any fuch thing. 
 
 The Per fans are molt excellent Artifts for manufactures of GoId,Silk and Silver 
 of which their rich Carpets and ThTues are made : nor do their Gold and Silver 
 Manufactures ever grow black or loofe their lufter by long wearing or lying by. 
 There are abundance that work in Silk fluffs of all forts, and others that make* 
 Bonnets and Girdles of Gold and Silk. Others there are whofe bufinels it is to 
 faft'n flowers of Gold and Silver to their Taffata's, with gum water, of which 
 the women make Shifts and Drawers. And now they begin to make 'fuch large 
 quantities of Taffata's, that they care not for the fluffs which are brought out of 
 India, though they b.e much finer. 
 
 They alfo make great quantities of Linnen Cloth of all forts of colours, upon 
 which they faft'n feveral flowers with gum water, and Tome figures, though the 
 Law forbid it. Which they learnt to do upon the Armenians carrying out of Eu- 
 rope fome ill-favour'd cuts and pieces in diftemper which they bought here without 
 judgment t thefe pieces they hang before their doors, and thofc hollow places 
 in the walls where they put their Quilts and Carpets when they rife. 
 
 The Perfans are excellent Artifts at Damalquing with Vitriol, or engraving Da- 
 mask-wife upon Swords, Knives,and the like. But the nature of the Steel which 
 they make ufe of, very much contributes to their Art, in regard they cannot 
 perform the fame work neither upon then* own nor ours.This fteel is brought from 
 Golconda, and is the only fort of fteel which can be damafqu'd. For when the 
 workman puts it in the fire, he needs no more then to give it the rednefs of a 
 Cherry, and inftead of quenching it in the water as we do, to wrap it in a moift 
 Linnen cloth : for mould he give it the lame heat as to ours, it would grow fo 
 hard that when it came to be wrought it would break like glafs. I fpeak this to 
 undeceive thofe people who think our Scimitars and Cut-Jaffes are made of fteel 
 of Damafm, which is a vulgar error j there being no fteel but that of Golconda 
 that can be Damask'd. 
 
 The Perfans are alfo excellent Artifts at making Bows and Arrows and fuch 
 other weapons as are us'd in that Country. As for Bridles and Saddles their Ar- 
 tifts far exceed ours,efpecially in their fbwing,which they do fo neatly and with fo 
 much art with a kind of back ftitch, that it looks almoft like an embroidery.There 
 are an infinite number that live by dreffing Seal-skins and Goat-skins, the firft to 
 make boots for the Gentry and better fort of Merchants, the latter 'for the poor 
 people. 
 
 There is alfo a fort of earthen ware made at Kerman which is very fine, and be- 
 ing brok'n looks as white within as without. It does not endure hear fo well as 
 Forcellane, which has this quality, that if you powre never fo hot liquor into a 
 Porcellan; cup,neither the foot nor the brims a-top will be any thing the warmer. 
 
 There are abundance of poor people that get their living by mending glafs To- 
 bacco-pipes, for when they are brok'n they join them together again with a cer- 
 tain maftic made of lime, and the white of an egg, then with a Diamond-pointed 
 piercer they make holes in the glafs, and bind the pieces together with a thin ' 
 Latten-wire. 
 
 The moft confiderable commodities of Per fa are the Silks which come out of 
 the Province ofGuilan. But there is not fo much tranfported out of Pa fa as men 
 imagin. For formerly great quantities of Velvets, Tilfues and Taffata's were 
 tranfported out of Per fa, into thefe parts:but now we make them better and cheap- 
 er in Europe. 
 
 There is alfo a vaft quantity of flat filk tranfported out of Perfa into Turkje 
 Mufovy and Poland, which the women ufe in embroidery : for the Colours being* 
 lively, they embroider their fliifts, hankerchers, vails, and other linnen with 
 it. 
 
 The Seal-skins and Goat-skins which are drefs't in Perfa, are tranfported by the 
 
 Hollan- 
 
_ 1 ft 
 
 Chap. XII. of Monfieur Tavernier. 231 
 
 Hollander into India and f apart. Great quantities alfo of both are tranfported into 
 Mufcovj and Poland. 
 
 g. The Ronas, that famous Root, of which I have already fpoken, is tranfported 
 over all India, where there is alfo a great vent of Perfian fruits pickl'd in Vinegar, 
 as alfo of their fweet waters. 
 
 Their Piftaches grdw in great abundance about Casbin 5 Almonds from the Terri- 
 tories of Tejd and Kerman, Raifins from feveral parts of the Kingdom, efpecially 
 from Schiras : And their purgative Prunes, which they call Alonbacara, from the 
 Frontiers that border upon Tartary. 
 
 Great ftore of Quinces candied, and boxes of Marmaled made at Balfara, are 
 thence tranfported into India, where they are bought up by the Mahometans and 
 Portugftefes. For the Banians will eat none,for fear they mould by accident bury a 
 fly in their ftomachs. 
 
 Great ltore of dry'd Fruits are brought out of the Country of the Medes, and 
 tranfported to Tocat, to Diarbequir 3 Nineveh and Dagdat. Among the reft a fore 
 of fmall Abricots, very pleafing to the tafte, which being boyFdin water makeai 
 pleafant fyrrup, and are the only diet for the fick in thofe parts. 
 
 There are alfo great ftore of painted Calicuts made in Perfia, which being 
 courfe, are only worn and made ufe of by the poor, fo that there is very little 
 tranfported out of the Country,but what is carried into Turkic 
 
 The Perfitns alfo make a great deal of money of their Gattel ; and to begin 
 with their Camels, they fell vaft numbers of them into Armenia and Natolia. But 
 the Governours of the Provinces are very unwilling to part with them ; which 
 very much abates the trade. For the Turks very highly efteem the Perfian Camels, 
 as being ftronger than their own. They alfo fell great ftore of Horfes and Mules § 
 but that trade is not fo considerable, the chiefeft part being only fent into India. 
 
 As for their Sheep, 'tis a wonderful thing to fee what prodigious numbers come 
 out of the Province of the Medes and the Higher Armenia, and the Forraign Mer- 
 chants come as far as Tattris and Hamadan to fetch them away. They drive theirt 
 as far as Constantinople and Adrianople, and the greateft part of the Mutton which 
 is fpent in Natolia and Romania comes out of Perfia, which very much enriches 
 Perfia with ready mony. But when Lamb is in feafon, as we travel with the Ca- 
 ravans,we meet at every turn with flocks after flocks,the leaft of which confifts of 
 a thoufand Lambs : and in regard there are fome of thofe Lambs that are weary, 
 and lag behind, we buy them at a very cheap rate, the Shepheards that are not 
 able to carry them,being glad to be rid of 'em. 
 
 Formerly the Merchant Fewellers brought fome Turquoifes of the old rock out 
 of Perfia j but for thefe i j years Iaft paft there have bin none found. The laft 
 time I was there I could only meet with three, which were but reafonable. As 
 for thofe of the new rock, they are of no value, becaufe they do not keep their 
 colouribut turn green in a little time. 
 
 chap; 
 
232 
 
 The Persian Travels Book V. 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 Of the Juftice and Toliry of the Perfians. 
 
 THe Jufticc of the Perfians is very exact and very fpeedy. Suits are determin'd 
 upon the place without any need of Advocates or Proiftors. Not but that 
 the Officers of Juftice are eafie to be corrupted,but in their unjuft exactions, which 
 they carry as fecretly as poffibly they can, they are fooner fatisri'd then the Turks'. 
 and if their injuitice be difcover'd, upon complaint to the King they are punifht 
 without mercy. 
 
 The Kans do Juftice in their Provinces^ reprefenting the Kings perfon. Be- 
 fides that, the King has a Divan Begui in every City,and the Kan places under him 
 a Deroga, who is like the Lieutenant Criminal in France. He has wider him an 
 Aata,s t who is a kind of Captain of the watch j who goes about the firms in the 
 night to hinder diforders, and carries all people to Prifon that he finds abroad at 
 unfeafonable hours, if they cannot give a good accompt of thtmfelves. There 
 isalfo a Kelonter, that is, the chiefeft or greatelt, who (eems to refemble the Tri- 
 bune of the People among the Romans, or the Provoft of Merchants in France. 
 The Kelonter is only refponfible to the King, who places one in every City, and it 
 is his bufinefs to defend the People from the injuftice and oppreiiions of the Go- 
 vernours. 
 
 Murther is feverely punilh'd, nor will money fiive the Criminrl. When the 
 Murtherer is tak'n, they carry him before the Divan Begui, who inafees c v.ek 
 work. For he delivers him to the Parents or kindred of the perfon flain, who 
 carry him to the place of execution, and without any compafTion torture him to 
 death. 
 
 I remember the Kan of Schiras had a Favourite, who falling in love with a 
 young PerSah Gentleman, would needs endeavour to have the ufc of his body. 
 One day meeting upon the Road together,and lying at night under the fame Tent, 
 the Favourite about midnight came to his bed fide, and after many follicitations 
 would have forc'd him. But being violently refifted the Favourite for madnefs 
 to fee himfelf dhappointed, and liable to bedifcover'djftabb'd the young Gentle- 
 man to the heart, and fled to the Mountains. The Murther being divulg'd, the 
 Mother, Widow and Sifter of the young man repair'd to the Kan for Juftice, who 
 willing to fave his Minion, offer'd them money: but they fcorning his proffer, 
 threaten'd to complain to the King. The Kan being thereupon conftrain'd to pur- 
 fue his Favourite, at length took him and fent him to JJpahan, telling them that 
 he would not judge of the Affair, but refer it to the King. The Mother, Widow 
 and Sifter immediately follow'd the Murtherer to Ifpahan ; and demanded Juftice 
 of the King with that eagernefs, that though the King had an inclination to have 
 fpar'd the Katfs Favourite for his Mafters fake, he was forc'd to abandon him, and 
 to bid them pay themfelves with his blood. Immediately he was carri'd to the 
 Meydan, where the Widow firft ftabb'd him to the heart with a Dagger, then the 
 Mother took her turn, and after the Sifter 5 and then holding a Cup to receive his 
 blood, drank every one a cup full to quench the thirft of their revenge. 
 
 Nor are they fo exact in the punifliment of Murther only ; for they punifh dif- 
 orders in houfes of Debauchery with a proportionable ftrictnels, of which I will 
 give the Reader two examples. A young Hollander, coming to Ifpahan, prefently 
 put himfelf into a Perjian habit ; and going in the evening to a houfe of good ftl- 
 lowfliip, met with certain Perfians, with whom he happen'd to quarrel,and being 
 well beaten for his pains, thought it not convenient to ftay any longer where he 
 had bin fo ill entertain'd. Thereupon the Dutch Interpreter went and complain'd 
 to the Athemadoukt, who inform'd the King. The King immediately fent for the 
 people that had beaten the Hollander } and ask'd them why they abus'd a ftranger? 
 To which the others made anfwer that they faw no ftranger, but only a man clad 
 after the Perfian garb. Whereupon the King told the Interpreter, that if the Dutch- 
 man had worn his own Country habit, his Subjects durft not have abus'd him, but 
 as the cafe ftood, he had no reafon to punifh 'em. One 
 
Chap. X. 
 
 of Moniieur Tavernier. 
 
 One day it happen'd than there was a great hubbub in one of thofe houfes of 
 debauchery, where the woman had prollituted her own Daughter. The King in- 
 form'jd of it, commanded the Mother to be thrown headlong from a Tower : and 
 that the Daughter mould be torn a pieces by his doggs, which he keeps a purpofe 
 for fuch chaitilements. 
 
 Above all things there is an extraordinary care taken for the fecurity of the 
 High-ways. For which purpofe guards are fet at convenient diftances, who are 
 ready to purfue upon the lealt noife of a Robbery, and who examin people whence 
 they come and whither they go. If they anfwer not as they fhould,or trip in their 
 Amwers, they carry them before the next Governor. Thofe Radars are fo polled 
 over all Pcrfia, that you need no more then fend to the places where they keep 
 ftation, to know what is become of any perfon that has committed a crime. For it 
 is impoffible to fcape, all the Palles are fo well guarded. If any one endeavours 
 to travel through the Mountains or unfrequented roads, then the Radars who are 
 in all places, feize fuch perfons upon fufpition, lor not taking the direct 
 road. 
 
 As the Caravan was one day fetting out from Tamis for lfpatianp poor fellow took 
 an occafion to rob a Cloak-bag during the hurly-burly of packing up,and fled crofs 
 the fields not knowing his way : the Merchant miffing his goods,complain'd to the 
 Governour who having fought for him in vain, fent order to the Guards of the 
 High-ways, to make a ftrict examination, and to fend the perfon to him fb foon 
 as they had feiz'd him. In a lhort time the Thief was conitrain'd to forfake his 
 Cloak-bag and to come a thwart the fields for water. Who being exumin'd by the 
 Radars why he came alone by fuch a by way, and not knowing what to anfwer, 
 was carri d to the Governour. He was foon convidled and condemn'd to death, 
 for Thieves find no mercy in Perfia. Only they are varioufly put to death. For 
 fometimes they are ty'd to a Camels tayl by the feet, and their bellies rip't open. 
 Sometimes they are buried alive all but their heads, and ftarv'd to death ; in 
 which torment they will fometimes defire a Paflenger to cut off their heads $ 
 thuugh.it be a kindnefs forbidden by the Law. But the moft cruel punifhment of 
 all, is when they fet the Thief a Horfe-back, with his extended Arms faften d to a 
 long flick behind : then larding him with lighted Candles, they futfer the Candles 
 to burn into his very bowels. Another and I met two in this mifery, who defir'd 
 us to haften their deaths, which we durft not do, only we gave them a Pipe of 
 Tobacco according to their defire. 
 
 As for thofe that fteal in Cities, they tye them by the heels to the tayl of a Ca- 
 mel, and rip up their bellies : and then as the Camel drags the poor creature along 
 the ftreets, while one goes before him crying, Toe King has fumftid him for fuch 
 a crime. If yet he be not dead,they hang him upon the next tree. 
 
 The Radars have little wages, which makes them ufe their Rhetoric to get 
 what honeflly they can out of the Travellers, to whom they tell long Itories of 
 their care for the fecurity of the high-ways. 
 
 If it happen that a Merchant be rob'd, the Governour of the Province is to 
 make good to the Merchant whatever he has loft, according as he fhall make out 
 by his Oath or his Book. Nor dare the Governors deny fatisfadion, fearing a 
 complaint at Ifpahan. I my felf was rob'd of two Bales of goods, between Lar 
 and Schiras, to the value of 1400 Piafters, but upon complaint to the Governour 
 upon my own oath and fhewing him my Book, he pay'd me all my lofs in gold, 
 and gave me a prefent in wine befides. 
 
 The Pofts or Shappars are thofe that carry the Kings difpatches to the Gover- 
 nours of Provinces. When they are fent any whither, the Kings Efquire finds 
 them a Horfe, and a man that runs to the end of the Stage, to bring him back 
 again. If thefe Curriers meet a Horfeman upon the road, they have power to dif- 
 mount him, if their own be not»fo good, or be tyr'd : and the Horfeman mull ei- 
 ther run after his Horfe, or fend fome body to the end of the Stage. Sometimes: 
 thefe Curriers abufing their power, within a quarter of an hour after thev have 
 chang'd their Horfe, if they meet another better mounted, they will take 
 away his Horfe too. Nor dares the Horfeman refill, though he be never fo much 
 too ftrong j for there is no pardon for them that lay fo much as a finger upon one 
 pf thefe Shappars •, at other times they will pretend to take away a mans Horfe 
 
234 The Persian Travels book V . 
 
 only to get money. But they are forbid to deal fo by the Franks; and I have 
 pafs'd by them,when they have (aid nothing to me. 
 
 Their Government in relation to Belly-timber is the beft in the world. For there 
 is a Mohtefeb, who is the chief of the Government, whofe bufinefs it is to let a 
 rate upon all forts of Provifion, being affifted by three or four more Affeffors. 
 Every firft day of the week there is a public Proclamation of taxe upon the 
 weight of every thing. Which Afieflbrs in the evening advize together againft 
 the next day whether to raife or abate the price before fet. This order was efta- 
 blifh'd by the great Sba Abbas, and was in his raign more punctually obferv'd 
 then it has been fince. By the by obferve, that all provifions of belly-timber are 
 fold by weight and not by meafure : fo that you may fend a Child to Market ; 
 for if the Commodity be not weight/tis well if the buyer be fatisfy'd with having 
 his money again. For if the feller be difcover'd to (ell by falfe weights, they are 
 led about the ftreets with a Ta^ekolas,or^ Bonnet like a Bee-hive upon their head?, 
 and a Bell about their necks to expofe 'em firft to the laughter of the people : after 
 that they are fin'd , and receive fo many drubs upon the foles of their 
 feer. 
 
 If this good order were not obferv'd in Perfia, the poor would fuffer very much. 
 For the handicraft tradefmen that work all day in (hops remote from their houies 
 where their wives are continually fhut up, eat nothing at noon but a little fruit in 
 feafon : and then in the evening when they leave work, they go to the Market 
 and buy for their Families boyld or roaft meat, of which there is great plenty. 
 Therefore are they fo exact, leaft fo many poor labouring men mould be de- 
 ceiv'd. 
 
 One day a Baker of the City came to the Kan, complaining that the Judge of 
 the Government had fet too low a price upon bread, fo that he mould be a great 
 lofer. To whom the Kan madeanfwer, that 'twas not his bufinefs to alter the 
 price : bidding him go to the Magiftrate that was concerned. But the Baker belie- 
 ving the Kan could do any thing, fent him a preterit of fifty Tomans. The Kan 
 feeing the ill defign of the Baker to opprefs the poor people, and the ill opinion he 
 had of him as a feller of Juftice commanded him to be carri'd to the Piax.z,a and 
 "there to be drub'd upon the foles of his feet till he pay'd the other fifty Toman? 
 which the Kan forthwith diftributed to the poor, and caus'd the price of bread 
 to be abated inftead of raifing it. 
 
 CKAP. XIV. 
 
 Of the Manners and Cuftcmes of the Perfians. 
 
 THe Manners and Cuftomes of the people are ufuaily correfpondent to their 
 Religion. The Perfians never preferve the name of their PredecelTors, but 
 like the few, for diftinction fake, fay, fuch a one, the Son of fuch a one. When 
 they Circumcife a Child and give him a Name, they write three or four Names 
 like Lots in Paper , which are drawn by a Child, and which the Child draws, that 
 is the Name of the Child. The women that are barren, fwallow that which is 
 cut from the Child,believing it will make them conceive. 
 
 The Perfians are generally very inquifitive after the time to come, confuting 
 their Aftrologers like Oracles : The King has always two or three by him, to tell 
 him the good or bad hour. There is an Almanac which is fold every year in Per- 
 fia 3 which they call Tacmm ; but is indeed an Ephimerides, containing the Longi- 
 tudes and Latitudes of the Planets, the Conjunctions and Oppofitionsj and other 
 fuch things. This Tacuim is full of predictions about Wars, Sickneffes and Famin. 
 It fets the proper feafons to put on new cloathes, to let blood, to Purge, or tra- 
 vel, with many other inftructions of the fame nature. They give great credit to 
 this Tacuim, and they that can get one, govern themfelves in all things according 
 to the Rules there fet down. Others to know the fuccefs of their affairs, go to 
 
 a 
 
Chap.XIV. of Monfieur Tavernier, 235 
 
 a Dodtor of the Law, and defire him to open the Al-couran, and to tell them the 
 iffue of their bufinefs. Thereupon the Doctor muttering fome ftrange words, ^g'™k of 
 opens the Book, and if he meets with affirmative commands, he declares che'theLaw fo 
 undertaking fhall proper. If negatives., he diflwades from the enterprize. I re-enrid'd fori 
 member a Gardiner belonging to the Capuchin Friers, would needs go to one of its excel- 
 thofe Moallah's, to know whether he fhould get by an Ox that he was about to {f^kf Su- 
 btly. Whereupon the Moullah affur'd him he mould reap great profit by his bar- bio.' 
 gain : but quite contrary, the Ox dy'd upon his hands within three days, to the 
 great aftonifhment of the Gardiner. When a Capuchin tax'd the Moullah for the 
 falfities of his pretended Art, the Moullah reply'd, that God knew that the Gar- 
 diner would fpend his Money upon lewd Women, and therefore took from him 
 the means and fupport of his debauchery. 
 
 They ahb ufe a fort of divination, which is call'd Rambe\ by even of odd, the 
 Matters of which myftery, call'd Rammals, keep Shops on purpofe to delude the 
 people. When they fee people. Coming, they have perfons fuborn'd on purpofe j 
 who holding out their hands (hut, ask the Ramm.il what he thinks they have in 
 their hands. The Rammal at firlt feems to be at a ftand ; throwing certain Dice, 
 call'd Kiabetain, the fpecks whereof are fome even, fbme uneven ; but when there 
 are people enough gathered together, he tells point by point how many fpecks his 
 fellow-Cheat has in his hands. Who counterfeiting aftonifhment, encourages the 
 poor filly creatures that ftand gazing, to fpend fomething for a lye which they fell 
 them. They alfo make ufe of the Faal; which is to open a Book,& by numbers even 
 or odd, to prognofticate good or bad fortune. In their interpretation of dreams, 
 the Interpreter foretells the future to him that enquires conformable to what he ' 
 (ays he faw in his dream. He has a great Book lying before him, full of little 
 Pictures and Grotefco-work, wherein he ftrives to fhew the people fbme Fantafm or 
 Apparition, which they will tell you they faw in the night. Thefe cheats are 
 ufually practis'd about the Palace, where all the idle people flock together; as al- 
 fo upon the Road to Zulpba, where they lye upon the Road to catch the filly 
 Paflengers. 
 
 The Perfians are mightily additfted to ill language, and foul-mouth'd reproaches. 
 So that when two men fall out, inftead of fighting with their fifts, they fight with 
 their tongues, and curfe one another. But they never blafpheme God : for if 
 they fhould hear one fwear, or wifh themfelves at the Devil, they would cry out 
 in an aftonifhment, Is not that Fellow a fool to give himfelf upon trufi to the Devil, 
 and renounce Faradife ? When they would affirm any thing to be true, all their 
 Oaths are Ser-az.ire-jha, By the Kings, beloved head; or, Erva pigumba, by the 
 Spirit of theProphet. I remember once at Galata> walking with fome of the 
 French EmbafTador's Servants, we faw two Turks at Cuffs ; after they were par- 
 ted, one of them gave the other a thoufand curfes ; to which, the other reply'd 
 no more than only this ; I wifh, faid he, thy Soul may have no more repofe in" 
 Paradife., than the Hat of a French-man has in this World, alluding to our manner 
 of falutation, and putting off" our Hats fo often as we do. 
 
 The Perfians are naturally great Diflemblers and Flatterers ; and they make it 
 their ftudy to acquire efteem and applaufe. They love to give and receive Pre- 
 fents: more efpecially to prefent the King. Which Prefents are valu'd, and ac- 
 cording to the eftimate, they muft fend ten per cent, to the Serjeant Porter, and 
 five per cent, to his Deputy : which, if they do not pay Willingly, they are fote'd 
 to pay : which I faw the Deputy of the Holland-Company fore'd to do. 
 
 The Luxury and the Expences of the Perfians is exceffive, as I have in feveral 
 places obferv'd. And though it be againft the Law of Mahomet to make ufe of 
 Gold or Silver-plate, which fets afide that metal only for Commerce and for Mo- 
 ney ; none but the poor obferve that Law, for the rich make no fcruple to tranf- 
 grefs it. 
 
 The Perfians are very much accuftomM to make mutual Vifits one to another at 
 their folemn Feftivals, and to wifh one another good cheer, and a merry feafbn. 
 The more noble fort ftay at home to expecl: the Vifits of their Inferiors ; after 
 that they get a Horfeback, and return their Vifits. The Ctirtifans continue their 
 Vifits all the yearlong, and going to the Noble-mens Houfes, ftay in the great" 
 Hall till they come out of their Harams. Whither, when the Noblemen come,- 
 
 F f they 
 
2%6 The Persian Travels Book V . 
 
 th^y lay their hands upon their ftomachs, and bow, which is their mannet of fa- 
 luting the Company that tarries for them. After fome few Compliments, they 
 get a Horfeback, attended by all their Vifitants, who accompany them to the 
 King's Houfe, in expectation of fome kindnefs, by vertue of their favour. The 
 favours which the King ufually does to fuch people., is to fend them to the Gover- 
 nours of Provinces with a Hawk or a Calaat, with order that the faid Governours 
 remember the Serjeant Porter. 
 
 The Kan being advertiz'd that the Calaat is coming, he rides forth of the City 
 to meet it, attended by all his principal Officers, the chief of the City, and the 
 greateft part of the Inhabitants. The Juglers alfo muft give their attendance, to- 
 gether with the Drums and Trumpets, and all the Mufick-makers. They rendez- 
 vouz ufually in a Garden one or two leagues from the City, where the King's Mef- 
 fenger ftays with the Calaat. So foon as the Governour perceives him, he makes 
 a low obeyfance, and a Prayer for the King ; giving God thanks for that the King 
 is pleas'd to prcferve him in his memory : then he puts on the Calaat, which is 
 according to the quality of the Governour : fometimes the Robe alone ; fome- 
 times Robe and Cloak : fometimes Robe, Cloak, G irdle, and Bonnet 5 to which, 
 if he be a Grandee, are added the Scimitar and Dagger : which method is alfo 
 obferv'd toward Embafifadors. When the Kan has put on the Calaat, he returns 
 to the City with all his Retinue, goes to the King's Houfe ; (Tor the King has a 
 Houfe in every City,J kilfes the Columns of the Gate, and makes certain other 
 Prayers for the profperity of the King : At length he rides home, where he makes 
 a great Feaft, {hewing the Calaat to all perfons that come to him, who by way of 
 complement cry Monbarek^bajhet, that is, may it be blefi, and prove a good omen. 
 
 The Perftans are not much addicted to play : for befides, that the Law forbids 
 it j the Mejhaldar-Bajhi has a power to fine and punifh Gamefters,as I have faid 
 already. For which reafon he has fpies, to which the meaner fort of people dare 
 not refufe entrance into their Houfes : but the richer fort laugh at 'em $ and will 
 give 'em nothing. Among the Perfij.n Games, there is one game at Cards which 
 the Perftans call Gengefe. We have but four diftinct marks upon ours, but they 
 have eight. They alfo play at a kind of Chefs, and at TriHrac j which two Games 
 are molt in ufe, The Shopkeepers play in the Streets with little Marble-bowls, 
 not much unlike our Childrens Bowling-ftones. But as for Bowling-greens, or 
 Tennis-Courrs, they know not what they mean. 
 
 Neither the Persians nor any of the Eaftern People accuftom themfelves to 
 walk as we do. And therefore when they fee us walking to and fro together in a 
 Garden-Ally for two or three hours together, they are amaz'd. They only lpread 
 a Carpet in the faireft place of the Garden., and fet themfelves down to contem- 
 plate the verdure of the place : and if they rife, 'tis only to pull the fruit from 
 the trees. For they love to eat what they gather themfelves, never caring for 
 what others have handl'd. 
 
 The Men never dance, only the Women of Pleafure, which are always lent for 
 to their Feafts ; where they dance open-fae'd, and (hew a thoufand poftures to 
 civertife theCompany. Their juglers are every jot as good as oursjbut whereas ours 
 make ufe of Balls, they fhew their tricks with large Hen-eggs. Their Dancers 
 upon the Ropes far exceed ours. I have feen fome of them that have ty'd a Rope 
 to the top of a high Tower, and faften'd the other to the ground, and then walk- 
 ing up to the top with their counterpoifes in their hands, have laid themfelves up- 
 on the Rope upon their backs, and have Aid to the bottom with a fwiftnefs like 
 lightning. 
 
 The Perfians are altogether as fuperftitious as the Turks. Before they fay their 
 Prayers they are oblig'd to warn : every one having a Refervatory for water in 
 his own Houfe, which is always full of water. They plunge their heads in the 
 water, wafh their mouths, rub their forheads j and if a man fhews them any nafti- 
 nefs in the Veffel, there's water enough, they cry, for purification , though, if k 
 be Pond-water, it muft be four or five foot deep. But if it be Running-water, 
 the leaft quantity in the World ferves to purify 'em, and render 'em fit to pray : 
 while they ground their beliefupon this maxim of the Law of Mahomet, that if it 
 mould run through Pijhkj.ll, or Camels-dung,it would be fufficient for purification. 
 There is one fort of wafhing appointed by their Law, which is, to go to their 
 
 Barns 
 
Chap. XIV. of Monfieur Tavernier. 237 
 
 Baths after they have been with their Wives ; and there are fonie fo fuperftitious 
 as to go there every day. Thefe Baths are round Chambers, fo clofe, that there 
 is no light but what comes from little round windows made in the top of the 
 roof. In the firft place, there is the Krafine, which is a Chamber feven or eight 
 foot fqnare 3 where, in the middle of the Room, is a great Copper-plate, in the 
 form of a flat Bafon, and underneath they make a fire of Brufh.es.or Horfe-dung ; 
 fo that the Plate heats all the water which is in the Chamber : When it is hot 
 enough, a fervant belonging to the Bath goes up to the Terras, and winds a horn, 
 to give notice to them that have a mind to come. Should a Perfian or a Mahn- 
 metan mifs once in eight days, he would feel an itching all over his body not to be 
 endur'd. For the pores, which the htat of the Bath had open'd, coming to be 
 fhut, the vapours of the body not able to get our, prick and tickle the skin. The 
 Men go early in the morning, and fray till two hours after Sun-rifing : At the en- 
 try of the Bath is the place where they undrels ; and when they are ftript all 
 but the fecret parts, which they cover with a napkin, they pour hot water upon 
 their fhoulders $ and then comes a man and rubs off all the Iweat and filth of the 
 Body with a coarfe Cloath ; after which they plunge themfelves into a Refervato- i 
 ry of hot water, which they call KolLtain. But thefe common Baths are very 
 dangerous, and many people of both Sexes have got the fowl Difeafe, who were 
 never addicted to impurity. 
 
 There are alfo in Perfia hir'd people, which they call Sana's; whofe bufinefs it is 
 to give water to the people as they go along the Streets. Their Barbers are very 
 neat, and furpafs ours for lightnefs of hand ; for a man can hardly feel their Ra- 
 fors. They have alfo a Knife to pare the nails of the hands and feet, which they 
 do very dextroufly. As for their Beards, thofe that belong to the Law cut it with 
 Sciflers, but they leave it not fo long as the Turks do, by much. But the Courtiers 
 and Souldiers fhave all off, except from their upper-lips, where they take it for a 
 mark of great honour to wear long Muft aches, which they fay is the ornament of 
 the face. 
 
 The habit of the Perfixns is a Robe which they call Cabaje, that comes down 
 a little below their knees. This is of very fine quilted Cloath, well cotton'd in 
 the Winter, but much thinner in the Summer.. Thefe Linnens w§uld be very 
 cheap, but that the Perfons of Quality change their Robes every day. Their 
 Sleeves are long, and clofe to their arms, and reaching as far as the wrifr. The 
 Robe is fit to their Bodies as far as the Waft ; but then it is made wide and loofe. 
 Over this they wear a noble Girdle of Silk, adorn'd at the end with flowers of 
 Gold_, over which they were another Girdle of fine Kerman-vsr oo\. The richer 
 fort are fo vain as to wear three Girdles, two of Silk, and one of Kerman-viQo\, 
 which is ty'd uppermoft. Under the Robe or Veft they wear a fhort Waftcoat of 
 flower'd Fuftian quilted, their Shirts being of Silk of divers colours. They ufe 
 as little Soap in Per fin as they can ; for Soap is very rare in Perfia. When we 
 come out of the Indies, we are fore 'd to bring with us Linnen enough to ferve us 
 for fix months, and then to carry it back again ; for they wafh much better in In- 
 dia then in Perfia. Their breeches being of Silk, come down to their Ankles, 
 without any codpieces. Their Sejje } or Bonnet, which we call a Turban, is made 
 of a piece of fine Silk mingl'd with Gold, being in form much like our large 
 Pompions : the top thereof is a little flat j and here it is that the end of the 
 Silk being garnifh'd with flowers of Gold and Silver, ends in a kind of Pofie. 
 Thefe Bonnets are very heavy, efpecially thofe that are for the moft part nothing 
 but Gold and Silver. The meaneft of thofe is worth 200 Crowns j but there are 
 fome which the King and the great Lords wear, ' that are worth four or five 
 hundred. You fhall feldom meet an Officer of any Quality that does not wear a 
 rich Jewel in his Bonnet. The Courtiers and Souldiery wear their Daggers upon 
 their ftomachs, ftuck in their girdles. The meaneft Souldier inlays the handle and 
 (heath of his Dagger ; but the Grandees have them all befet with Pearls. There 
 was in the handle of Sha- Abbas the Second's Dagger, a Diamond of above fixty 
 Carats, which, with fome other Stones that belong'd to it a was valu'd at 13 000 
 Tomans, or 200000 Crowns. Over their Veft they wear a Jufticoar, much like 
 ours. It is faften'd at the top with a button : and moft ufually they have nine 
 tufted buttons before fet by three and three at an equal diftance : but they only 
 
 F f 2 ferve 
 
The Persian Travels Book V. 
 
 ferve for ornament. This Jufticoar is either of Cloath, or Tiflue ; which in Win- 
 ter is lin'd with Martins, or elfe with a grey Lambskin that comes from Korafan. 
 And indeed the Perfians love diverfity of colours in their habits; for their Jufticoar 
 is of one colour,their Velt of another,thtir Breeches of another} and their Shooes, 
 efpecially the Womens. are green, red, yellow, or violet. The Girdle and Turban 
 are always of ftrip'd Stuff, unlefs ic be the MohIUPJ's, which are always 
 plain. 
 
 Befides all this, in the Winter they wear a long Cloak down to their heels, with 
 fleeves of the fame length, lin'd with rich Furs. The Perfons of Quality, and 
 fome of the meaner fort of people make no more of Cloath of Gold and Siver, 
 then we do of Druggets. A man that has but feven or eight Tomans a vear, fhall 
 ipend five in Clothes 5 which excefs in habit is crept down among the Rabble, fb 
 that a man can hardly tell the Servant from the Malter. And it is a Proverb among 
 the Perjtans, Corbebe Lebas, fine Clothes make Men efteem'dat Court. Neither 
 Sba-Abbas the Second, nor his Grandfather Sha- Abbas the Firft, would allow of 
 this diforder, but that Men mould go clad according to their conditions. For one 
 .day, feeing one of his Servants with a pair of Cloath of Gold- breeches, deman- 
 ded what wages he had t but when he underftood that it was nothing neer 
 fufficient to maintain him at that rate ; to deter others from the like vanity, he 
 order'd him fo many JBafiinadoes upon the foles of his feet, that he dy'd in a few 
 days. Others fay that the Fellow being furpriz'd at the King's Qaeltion, made 
 him anfwer, that being troubPd with the Gout, he had been advis d to wear that 
 fort of Stuff for its warmth. To which the King reply'd, that he had been told 
 a very bad remedy, and that he would fhew him a better and a (boner way 
 to cure the Gout, and fo commanded him to be drubb'd, as before is rela- 
 ted. 
 
 In regard it is very cold in Perfia, they make ufe of three forts of Furs. The 
 Lamb and Fox's skin for the meaner fort, together with the Cat's and Fox's skin. 
 But the third fort, which is the Martin's Fur, is for Grandees of the Court, and 
 other Perfons of high Quality. They have alfo a way to make Caffocks that 
 will keep out the rain, the wind, and the cold, which are made of Ke\man- 
 wool, as our Felt-makers make their Hats. 
 
 And now f have faid 'tis cold, give me leave to tell ye how they warm them- 
 felves. In all Houfes there are little Chambers, in the middle whereof there is 
 a fquare hole about a foot deep, and three or four foot long, according to the 
 bignefs of the Chamber. Over the hole is a thing like one of our Tabourets^ 
 which covers the hole with a large Carpet, to keep in the heat of that which is 
 kindl'd in the hole 5 fo that being plac'd under the Tabouret as far as the Waft, 
 though as cold as ice before, in a minute you (hall be almoft in a fweat, and be 
 ready to fall a-fleep, if you take not a great care. All the Nobility have Cham- 
 bers with Chimneys, where they fet the Wood upright ; the Mantle- tree comes 
 forward, low, and femi-circular. It is two or three foot deep, and as many wide, 
 to avoid fmoaking. 
 
 They are full of their Compliments, which they call Traveled : and their man- 
 ner of falutation is quite different from ours. For they never uncover their 
 heads, but bow, and lay their right-hand upon their brefts. When they come 
 into the company of their Betters, they fall upon their knees to fet themfelves 
 upon their heels, which is a mark of refpefl. 
 
 The Women in Perfia are very richly habited j but their habit is all of 
 a piece, though little different in fhape from the Mens. It is open before, 
 and comes not down below the calf of the leg. Their Girdle is not ty'd fait, 
 but hangs carelefly : their Sleeves are alfo clofe to their arms, and reach to their 
 wrifts. Upon their heads they wear a little Bonnet rais'd like a little fpire, and 
 adorn'd with pretious Stones, according to their Quality } from which Bonnet 
 falls a veil behind, which is very graceful. They wear Breeches like the men, 
 and their Shooes are almoft like theirs. The Women of Ormus wear only a fin- 
 'gle pair of Breeches with a fhift over them. The Armenian Women wear 
 befides, .a little Jufticoar without fleeves, and upon their heads, a fine Linnen- 
 Coifty'd under their chins. Their hair is gather'd into a long trefs, to which 
 they fometimes add more, which is falfe, to make a long lock that is done 
 
 up 
 
Chap.XII. of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 up in a Velvet or Sattin-Cafe embroider'd, and hangs behind down to the 
 wait. 
 
 Handfome Women are very plentiful in Perfia, as well the tawny as the white. 
 For the Merchants that bring both from all parts, choofe the handfomeft they 
 can pick out. The white Women are brought from Mufcovia, Poland, Cirajfia, 
 MemreUa t Georgia, and the Frontiers of Tartary. The black from the coalt of 
 , Meltada, and the Red-Sea. 
 
 The Peifian Women are feen by none but their own Husbands. They are very 
 idle in then Houles, not fo much as looking after any thing of Houfewifery. In- 
 deed every thing is at the Husband's difpolal, fo that the Women are rather Slaves 
 thm Wives. They fpend their time in taking Tobacco, after feveral fafhions. 
 When they go tp the Baths, fhe's the Woman that wears the beft Clothes, and 
 brings tke belt Collation. They that have Slaves, caule 'em to rub their arms, 
 their legs, and their thighs, till they fall afleep j having no other divertifement in 
 their voluptuous Prifon. The higher a man is in dignity, the more he glories in 
 having a great number of Wives and Slaves j and his abfolute power keeps them 
 In order either willingly, or by conftraint. 
 
 There are two forts of Eunuchs for the guard of the SultanefTes and the Wives 
 of the Nobility : Some are white, but they never come neer the Women, but are 
 order'd to guard the tint doors of the Haram. The others are black, frightful 
 to look upon, and flat-nos'd 5 who attend only upon the Women. If there be a 
 neceffity for a Woman of Quality to go abroad, the Eunuchs go before and be- 
 hind with Battoons in their hands, to make the Corrouk^, and drive all the people 
 out of the way. When the King goes into the Countrey, if any one be afleep in 
 the high- way, and be perceiv'd before he wakens, he is immediately cut to pieces 
 as he lies, In the time of Sim- Aooas the Second, one of the Fellows that help'd 
 to let up the Womens Tents, being weary, fell afleep in one of them upon the 
 grdund. When the Women came, they, feeing a man afleep, fet up a fhrieking j 
 upon which, the Eunuchs coming in, wrapt up the Fellow in the Carpet as he lay, 
 and carrying him into the Fields, buried him alive, Carpet and all. 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Of the 'Ezfeafes of Perfia, and the m.inner of curing them, 
 
 THE Per/tan Children are feldom fick of the fmall-Pox, but in lieu of that, 
 they are very fubject to Scald-pates, till ten or twelve years old. Which, it 
 may be, proceeds from their fhaving fo young, and lb often : for they lhave at 
 five or fix months old, and two or three times a week. 
 
 As to the Pox, the Perfians would be more troubl'd with it, but that the dry Air 
 of the Countrey is an enemy to it : befides, they never lye twice with the fame 
 Woman, without going to the Bath to fweat out the venom of that diftemper. 
 As for the Gout or Gravel, the Perfiaas know not what it means : But the Ar- 
 menians are troubl'd with the latter, efpecially .thofe that in their youth accuftom'd 
 themfelves to drink more Wine then Water. 
 
 To thofe that are troubl'd with the Cholick, they ufually prefcribe the eating of 
 Horfe-flefh ; and I have feen many cur d bv that means. 
 
 Generally the Perfians, efpecially the rich, or thofe that have wherewithal to 
 live handfomely, are much lefs fubject to Sicknefs then the people of Europe. 
 Some take the reafon to be, becaufe of their Chma-dvmk which they drink every 
 Spring, boyling an ounce in three pints of water, and fo continuing the Dole for 
 ten or twelve days one after the other : all which time thev keep a very moderate 
 diet, and eat no fruit for a month together. This drink caules the Patient to fweat $ 
 and the fweat being wip'd off, dyes the Linnen, nay the very walls of the Cham- 
 ber of a yellow colour. As for any method of Phyfick, they have none in Perfia* 
 
 For 
 
Tbc Persian Travels Book V. 
 
 For the Dyfentery, they take fower Curdl'd-milk, with Rice unbruis'd boyl'd in 
 water, to which they add a little Rhubarb powder'd. 
 
 At the beginning of a Difeafc they forbid Bread, and inftead thereof prefcribe 
 Rice boyl'd in Hcn-broath, or fometimes in fair water. For diet is the chief Re- 
 medy which the Phyfitians prefcribe in all Difeafes, and account moft foveraign. 
 Indeed the remedy is well prefcrib'd in many diftempersj however it is by them 
 never prefcrib'd according to reafon or method, but only according to cuftom; • 
 whereby it often comes to pafs that they forbid that which is good, and prefcribe 
 that which is bad.If the Patient be fo poor as not to be able to fend for a Phyfitian, 
 two or three men fet him upon an Afs, with a Scarf about his neck, which denotes 
 him to be a fick perfon, and fo lead him to the Phyfitian } who prefently feels his 
 Pulfe, lets him Blood, and by and by taking his Pen in his hand, in a fmall piece of 
 Paper prefcribes more Hog- warn at one ftroke, then three mens bellys art able to 
 contain. 
 
 When a Phyfitian is callM to a Confultation, he pretends not to take any Money : 
 But his Atar or Apothecary finds a way to have the Do&or fatisfi'd for his pains. 
 They never permit the Sick to change their Linnen, how nafty foever it be. 
 When they come home to the Patient, though they find him ready to expire, they 
 tell the Servants that he will certainly recover j but then, on the other iide, they 
 go to the Parents or Kindred of the Patient, and tell them that the Patient is in a 
 defperate condition, and cannot live. By this means they fave their credit ; for 
 happen what will, they have told truth either of the one fide, or the other. 
 
 CHAP. XVI- 
 
 Of the divifton of Time among the Perfians. 
 
 TH E Perjians divide the natural day into four parts. The firft is from Sun- 
 rifing to Noon 5 the Second from Noon to Sun-fet : The third from Sun-fet 
 till Midnight ; and the fourth from Midnight till Sun-rife. At Midnight, Morning, 
 and Sunfet, they make a moft horrible din in every great City, of Kettle-Drums, 
 Haut-boys, Latten-Bafons, and other Inftruments : upon which there are certain 
 men hir'd to play for a quarter of an hour together, in fome place where they 
 may be heard all over the City. They have alfo great Cornets, about feven foot 
 long, with deep mouths, which may be heard above half a league. But thefe 
 Cornets are never us'd but in Cities where the Kans or Governours refide. Thefe 
 Inftruments are alfo always employ'd at their great Solemnities 5 as alfo when the 
 King creates any new Officer or Governour. Thefe Inftruments have alfo a pri- 
 viledg to play at all Houfes where they underftand there is a Male-child born. 
 The meaner fort dare not refufe 'em ; but the Nobility value not their priviledg 
 of a ftraw. 
 
 The Perjians in the computation of time make ufe of Lunar- months. The firft 
 MoKharrem, the fecond Cepber, the third Rebia-el-Ave/ i the fourth Akner, the 
 fifth Gemadil-Avel^he fixth Gemadil-Ak»er,the feventh Regeb, the eighth Shaabon, 
 the ninth Ramezan, the tenth Shaval, the eleventh Zikade, the twelfth Zil- 
 kagge. And every Month begins from the firft appearance of the Crefcent. 
 
 In their Aftronomical Accounts, and the Calculations of the Longitude and La- 
 titude of the Planets, for the compofing their Almanacks, they make ufe of Solar- 
 months, thus call'd : -^.^31 days. Onz-on 30 days. Ajar 31. Hanson 30. Te- 
 motiZ.e 31. Ab ^i.Eiloul $o.Techrion-el-Avel $i.Tecbrion-el-i/ani lo.Ranon-el-Avel 
 $i.Kanon-Elfani 31. Shaabat 28 or 29,anfwering to our February. The firft month 
 Az.ar begins upon our eleventh of March : fo that it anfwer'd to our month of 
 March before the Gregorian Reformation. Therefore they call this month 
 Mah-Roami, or the Roman months. They alfo make ufe of the Egyptian months, 
 Which are thus call'd : Terverdin, Erdi-bs-hotl, Kourdad, Tir t Mordad, Shcriver, 
 
 Mohre', 
 
Chap.XVII. of Monfieur Taverniel 241 
 
 Mohre, Abon, Az.er, Dei, Bahmen, Efpendarmonz.e',. The firft month, Fervevdm, 
 begins with the Vernal Equinox, every month not containing above 30 days, ad- 
 ding the five which remain to the end of the year, which they call Kramfi McujL- 
 relz~e. 
 
 The day of the Vernal Equinox is the firft day of the year,which they call Neo-? 
 x.onz,e, and is one of their Principal Feftivals. For that day all the Grandees ap- 
 pear at Conrt, and prefent the King according to their quality. If they can 
 meet with nothing that is rare, they prefent him in Ducatts of Gold,and there are 
 fome that prefent him to the number often Thoufand. They alfo give God thanks 
 for preferving them to fee the new year, and for preferving the fruits of the Earth 
 from bad feafons,for the Corn is by that time well come up.Upon this firft day of 
 the year, if a Persian has not money to buy him a new habit,he will go and mort- 
 gage his own body to have one. So proud and luxurious are the Per/tans from the 
 higheft to the loweft. 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 Of the Feajls and ordinary 'Diet cfthe Perfrans. 
 
 THe Perfans are nothing eager after delicacies or dainties; both the nobler 
 and the meaner fort being very temperate in dyet. In regard that wood is 
 fo fcarce and dear about Ifpahan, they never eat boyl'd meat above once a day : 
 and as for their Dinner which they call Shate, it confifts of bread, cheefe-curds, 
 milk, burnt wine, melons and other fruits in feafon, to which the rich add wet 
 and dry fweet-meats : At night their ufual food is Pilaw and roft meat. They buy 
 their Provifion from hand to mouth, efpecially the Mahometans, which is a double 
 charge. But for the Armenians, they live thriftily, and buy at once a good quan- 
 tity of provifions to laft for fo long time. 
 
 Muttons, Kidds, Pullets and Pidgeons, are the ufual dyet of the Perfians j for 
 as for Beef they very rarely eat it. The King and the great Lords will eat a piece 
 gf a Hare fometimes when they have been a hunting : but when they have kill'd 
 a wild Boar, they fend it always to fome Chriftian, in expectation to be prefented 
 for the honour done him. They have no diverfity of Victuals or made Dimes in 
 Perjia, their dyet being more proper to fatisne hunger, then to pleafe a nice palate. 
 Mutton and Lamb would be very good in Perjia, if they knew how to roaft it our 
 way. But the Perfians roaft only at an oven, which is a hole made in the ground 
 two foot and a half broad, and five or fix foot deep. They burn nothing but 
 bufhes, and a kind of Turf mix'd with the dung of Cattel, and dry'd in the Sun. 
 There are feveral roafting Cooks at Ifpahan, that roaft a whole Sheep at a time, 
 where he that comes to buy may have as much cut out as he pleafes. Other 
 Cooks fhops are only for boyl'd meat or rice : their fruits which they pickle up in 
 Vinegar being the only fawce which they have. 
 
 As for their Bread it is very white, for they have wheat enough to furnifh the 
 whole Kingdom. They bake every day, making up their Dow in the form of a 
 thin Cake, ftrow'd over with Sefamum. They bake thefe Cakes in their Ovens in 
 the ground, covering the batch over with little round flint ftones, that are quick- 
 ly hot and retain the heat. At Ifpahan they make a great fire in an earthen pot, 
 and when it is hot they fpread the Dow againft the fides of the pot. The Ar* 
 menians make a fort of bread as thin as Paper, which they bake upon a thin Iron 
 plate which is as thin as paper. Their Plate and Difhes are of red Copper tinn'd 
 within fide. For they are forbid to make ufe of Silver by the Law of Mahomet. 
 Nor does the King ufe any other then Gold Plate, of which he has great ftore. 
 They have alfo a fort of Porcellane made at Kerman. To eat their broths they 
 make ufe of wood'n fpoons : for as for their rice, which is thick, they take it up 
 in their fingers,and wipe their hands upon their handkerchiefs. 
 The firft thing fet upon the Table is the Pipe, the Tobacco, and the difh of 
 
 Coffee j 
 
242 The Persian Travels Book V. 
 
 Coffee ; and indeed thus it is that they begin all their debauches. They flick and 
 fmoak of their Tobacco through water in a long glafs bottle, by which means it 
 comes coolinto their mouths: elfe they would never be able to take it all day 
 long as they do. They ling very little in their Cups : but they recite a vaft num- 
 ber of wicked Verfes, which they rehearfe with a great deal of gravity. They 
 are fo accuitomed to take Tobacco, both men and women, that a poor rradefman 
 that has not above five Sous tofpend, will lay out three of them in Tobacco. If 
 they had none, they fay they mould not have damaque, that is, gladnefe in their 
 hearts. Many will confefs that their exceflive taking Tobacco is hurtful ; but if 
 you tell 'em of it, they anfwer in a word, Adedchond, 'Tis the cufkome. 
 
 Befides their Tobacco they have alfo Opiwn made of Poppies,cut as they grow, 
 out of which they draw the juice and make it into Pills. They take no more at ftrft 
 then the head of a pin, increafing their dofe by degrees,till they come to take the 
 quantity of half a wall-nut. When they are come to that pitch they dare not give 
 over, for fear of endangering their lives, or addifting themfelves to drink wine. 
 In their youth you fhall (ee thefe Theriakis or takers oj Opium, with pale peniive 
 and dejected countenances, and the ufe of their fpeech almolt loft : If they omit 
 to take for a day together this ill-continued drug that heats their brains., and cau- 
 fes them to aft ridiculoufly and to talk idly, when it has done working, they are 
 as cold and ftupid as before, which obliges 'em to take it again. For this reafon 
 they are fhort liv'd : or if they do live till forty, they complain heavily of the 
 pains that proceed from the cold venome of the herb. They that have a mind to kill 
 themfelves, fwallow a large piece, and drink Vinegar after it, to prevent the re- 
 lief of any other Counterpoyfbn, and fo they dye fmiling. 
 
 They have another fort of drink to make themfelves merry , which they calf 
 Kokemaar, compos'd of boyld Poppy feed. They take it in broth, and there are 
 particular houles call'd Kokemaar Krone, where people meet to divertife thofe 
 that fee the ridiculous poftures which that intoxicating drink caufesthem to mew. 
 Before it works they quarrel with one another, and call one another all to naught, 
 but never fight. When the drug begins to work, they grow friends; and fome are 
 for making complements,others for telling a long tedious ftory,which renders them 
 very vain. They have alfo another fort of liquor , which is call'd Bonguc y \exy 
 bitter, being made of the leaves of Hemp and fome other drug mix'd with it. It 
 makes thofe that ufe it fhamefully foolifh and ridiculous, which is the reafon the 
 Law has forbid that and not the former. The Vsbecks have brought into Perfta, 
 the Cuftome of taking in Pipes Tchouherfi, which is the flower or rather the 
 woolly fubftance which is found in hemp-cfofes. This fills the head with ftrange 
 conceits,fometimes pleafant and fometimes furious j thofe that take it being quite 
 befides their fences for two or three hours. 
 
 Their Feafts are thus order'd : The gueftscome in the morning to the houfe 
 whither they are invited, and all the day long they fpend their time in taking To- 
 bacco and telling ftories. Between whiles they have Sweetmeats , Colfee, and 
 Fruits fet before them. In the evening the Sofra is fpread, and the table ferv'd 
 with boil'd and roaft. If the perfon that treats be of any qual ity, he has a kind 
 of a Governour of his houfe, that fits upon his heels with a Ladle or great wood- 
 en fpoon in his hand. Then the Inviter makes his complements to the chief ^of his 
 guelts, alluring him that the entertainment is only provided for him, only at his 
 command he is ready to let the reft ihare with him. The Complements being thus 
 pafs'd, the Governour of the Houfe with his great Spoon puts rice and meat 
 upon the little plates, which the fervants prefent by equal portions to 
 every one of the guefts. Then they fall too , taking out the rice by 
 handfuls, and the meat with their fingers. Sometimes they mix curdl'd milk 
 with their rice and meat, and making up a lump of all together as big as a Ten- 
 nis ball, put it all in their mouths at a time, which is the reafon they never fit 
 long at Table ; one making room for another till they have all done : for as foon 
 as one has done, another comes into his place without any farther Ceremony.They 
 have feveral Liquors in the room in Porccllain VelTels, but at meals they only 
 drink to drive down their meat and to prevent thirft. When all is done, they 
 bring a Bafon with an Ewre full of hot water to warn their hands and faces. After 
 which the Inviter complements, his guefts, and every one returns home j at which 
 
 time 
 
Chap.XVIII. of Monfieur Taverniel 243 
 
 time the fervants are very diligent to bring every man his fhoes, in hopes of fome 
 little piece of lilver. 
 
 1 The Armenians entertain their friends in the fame manner } only that they be-> 
 gin their Feafts with a cup of ftrong water, and fome fweet-meats, after which 
 they give a couple of hard Eggs to every one of the guefts. The Perfians alfo have 
 foon done, but the Armenians eat fwift, and a long time without drinking, which 
 they never do till the end of the meal. After they have given thanks and taken 
 away the cloth, then they fall to drinking to excels. He that gives the enter- 
 tainment never thinks he has done well, till his guefts are not able to find the way 
 out of the room, and the more they tumble about the room, the lets he thinks 
 he has fpent his money in vain. 
 
 To conclude, the Perfians are very Gentile,and afford their victuals with a free- 
 will to all that will come and eat with them at Supper time : admiring at the 
 cuftome of the Franks, who (hut their doors when they fit down to their 
 meals. 
 
 CHAP. XVIII. 
 
 Of the Marriages of the Perfians. 
 
 THe Perfians betroth their Children very young, that is at nine or ten years § 
 but among the Armenians there are fome marry'd and lye together at five 
 or fix. The Law of Mahomet allows them but four lawful Wives, whom they 
 call Nekba. But there are others whom they call Amomba or hir'd women, and 
 of whom they may have as many as they can keep, and for fo long time as they 
 pleate, which is ratifi'd by the allowance of the Judg. They may alfo enjoy the 
 Slaves whom they purchafe. The Children both of the one and the other are ac- 
 compted lawful, and inherit all alike, without the diftinction of Elder or Younger} 
 but two Daughters can have but the fhare of one boy. When the womans time 
 that was hir'd is out, the man difmhTes her, and (he is oblig'd to ftay forty days 
 before fhe engage again, that it may appear whither (he be with Child or 
 no. 
 
 The man gives to the woman that he marries a Dowry afllgn'd upon his Eftate, 
 and fends her money and filks to make her cloaths. The maid alfo fends fomething 
 to him , but very little, and all by the interpofition and intercourfe of the women. 
 For the two parties never fee one another. Upon the wedding day, they fend to 
 the Bridegrooms houfe, by the found of Drums and Trumpets, certain Horfes and 
 Men laden with the Brides goods, which is many times done out of vain-glory, 
 and more for fhew then fubftance. The Bridegroom is led a foot, attended by fe- 
 veral women with Tapers in their hands, and a noife of Drums and other Inftru- 
 ments marching before them. Being come to the door of the Bridegrooms Houfe, 
 if he have promis'd a larger Dowry to the woman then he is able or willing to 
 give, he keeps his door fhut. The Parents of the Maid knock, and he declares he 
 will not have her at that price. But at length after fome contefts on both fides 
 they agree, and the Virgin enters with her Mother and all her Kindred. Then the 
 MoulUh reads the conditions of Marriage j which being done, the women retire 
 into the inner part of the Houfe, the men feafting by themfelves,and the women by 
 themfelves. 
 
 This is all that is done upon the Wedding-day, but the following days are not al- 
 ways fo pleafing, and it often follows that both parties do not agree, or that the 
 husband mifufes his wife. Then the woman that requires (eparation, requires the 
 Dowry promis'd her by her husband : which the man oft-times refufes^and if flic 
 perfifts in her demand,is many times fo feverely us'd by him,that (he is conftrain'd 
 to cryj'tb Devils name lea me goj demand mthing of thee.Then they both repair to 
 the Cafi t or Cbeit-Lejloon, who is a Doctor of the Law, and in his pretence 
 they difcharge one another. This they may do by their Law three times* 
 
 G g After 
 
244 Tbe Persian Travels Book V. 
 
 . After that, the fame woman can never retuwi to her Husband again. 
 
 The Children derive their Nobility from the Father, whither he be born of a 
 Slave, or an Amontha, or a Legitimate wife. The Nobility of the Perfians which 
 is call'd Negabet, is founded upon their being defcended from Mahomet. They 
 who claim that extraction, have the title of Mir or Prince : and their Daughters 
 carry the appellation of Mirz.a or Princefs. They are very numerous and very 
 poor. But the title of Mir without a .good Eftate or high Employment fignifies 
 little or nothing. 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 Of the 'Death and Burials of the Perfians. 
 
 '""pis the Cuftome among the Perfians, that when the Patient lyes very dange- 
 JL roufly ill, they light feveral fires upon the Terrafs of the Houfe, to give the 
 People notice to pray for him. So foon as the breath is out of his body, the 
 whole houfe rings with cries and lamentations, efpecially of the women who tear 
 their hair, and fhew fuch antick poftures, that a man would think them poflefs'd. 
 In the midft of their tears they make long repetitions of the worthy actions of the 
 deceas'd, and every foot they fet up a yelling. Then they go and advertize the 
 Cap, that fuch a one is dead ; to whom the Cafi anfwers Sercboama SaUmet-BaJhei. 
 May yottr head be in fafety. In the mean while he feals a Licence to the Monr- 
 dercbour, to take the body and warn it in a houfe which is built on purpofe near a 
 running water.After that come a great number of Mot/Hat? s, with the Enfigns of 
 the Mofquee, which are long ftaffs like Pikes,at the end whereof are thin plates of 
 Iron and Latten, fo weak that they bend downward with the leaft motion : the 
 bodies of the ftaves being wrapt about with certainpieces ofTaffata*. Thefr Mout- 
 lahs tear their throats crying out Alia, Alia, Alia , repeating nothing elfe, and 
 dancing fometimes upon one foot and fometimes upon another; and becaufe they 
 that baul loudeft get the moft money, they put their thumbs in their ears with 
 their fingers upon their cheeks, and tear their throats with all the force they have. 
 The body being wafh'd, the cloaths of the deceas'd belong to the Monrderchonr. 
 When they carry the Beire, it is the cuftome that every one that meets it, prof- 
 fers their moulders to help carry, while the others eafe themfelves; for which 
 the Kindred of the deceas'd make forae acknowledgment. If he be a perfbn of 
 Quality, all his Horfes are bridl'd and faddl'd, and others perhaps borrow 'd : One 
 tarries his Turban, another his Scimitar, another his Bow, another his Arrows, 
 another his Buckler, and whatever elfe is of any ufe to fet forth his Quality and 
 his Courage. The biggeft Church-yard that belongs to Ifpaban, is Calrefion\ 
 but there is not one handfome Tomb in xt.lhe Armenians lay a great ftone over the 
 grave,and the rich fet up an Arch with four Pillars, under which they eat and drink 
 in the fhade when they vifit the Tombs of their Anceftors. 
 
 Their graves are fix foot long, fix foot deep, and two foot wide, wherein they 
 lay the bodies with their faces turn'd toward Mecca j and then they fet up two 
 tiles of each fide his face to keep the earth from falling upon it. If he be a rich 
 man , or have been a ftout SouJdier, they bury with him his Turbant, Scimitar, 
 Bow and Arrows, and fet Victuals by him ; which part of the hole being made up 
 with brick, the reft is fill'd up with earth. The Motilla's alone return to the 
 houfe of the deceas'd, where they have meat fet before 'em, and are alfb farther 
 pay'd fbr their fvnging and bawling. A while after the Kindred coming to vifit the 
 Heir, difcourfe him upon the contempt of the world, tell him that it is but as a 
 Caravan, fbme of which arrive fooner at their journeys end then others. Eight* 
 days after the Heir returns their vifits. As for the Grandees they order in their 
 Wills that their bodies fhall be either carry'd to Mecca or Mejhed. 
 
 As well the Perfians as the Turks, believe that as foon as the grave is fill'd, that? 
 the two Angels Negmr and Maugaa, revive the dead as far as his waft j ask him 
 
 the 
 
Chap.XX. of Monfieur Tavernier. 245 
 
 the reafon of Faith, and which way he faid his Prayers, and that according to his 
 merits they ufe him well or ill. As for the torment of Souls before the Refur- 
 rection, that only confiits in a grief for not having arriv'd to thofe perfections 
 and Sciences to which they might have attain'd, and confequently for not having 
 attain'd to that perfection which God requir'd of them. Others hold that the 
 Souls of the unfortunate are tormented with Dreams and Vifions ; but that the 
 Souls of the happy always enjoy the fight of pleafing objects ; till the Saheb-el- 
 x.aman, or Malter of time (hall come to confirm the Law of Mahomet, who (hall 
 kill Dedgar, who is like our Antichrifi, with his own hand j at which time all 
 then alive (hall dye in an inftant, and then mall happen the general Refurrection, 
 which they call Moavedet-hechre. That the lame Bodies and Souls fhall unite to 
 appear at the day of Judgment before the Throne of the great Judge of the 
 world 5 and that to go thither they muft pafs over a bridge calPd lolferat, fhar- 
 per then the edge of a razor, which neverthelefs the Mulfulmen fhall pals over 
 without any danger with the fwiftnefs of a bird. But that misbelievers (hall fall 
 as foon as ever they fet their feet upon it, and fhall fall into a torrent of fire a- 
 mong a thoufand Devils arm'd with Cramp Irons, Pincers, and tenter-hooks. So 
 that it is a kind of a Proverb among the Perfians, if a man cannot obtain of ano- 
 ther the Juftice of his bargain, or to yield to right, Well, fays he, before thou 
 pajfejl Poherat, thou Jhalt refiore it me double ■, for I will take bold of thy Coat, and 
 hinder thee from getting over till thou haft given me fatisfattion ; But the craftier 
 fort laugh at this, and make anfwer with a fmile, IVell, well, we will venture 
 fiumbling as we pafs over Polferat. The Porter of Paradife whom they call Ru- 
 fiten fhall open them the gate. There they mail fit upon the banks of the great 
 JCauJfer, which is a fountain where their Prophet fhall give them of the water to 
 drink out of a Ladle, and that afterwards they fhall have a great number of women 
 created on purpofe for them, with all forts of molt delicious food. And for fear 
 of fouling this place of recreation and holinefs with the excrements of eating and 
 drinking, they fay, that thofe things fhall always evacuate in a perfum'd fweat, and 
 that they themfelves fhall always remain in that condition. Others more refin'd, 
 and not believing material enjoyments, affirm that Beatitude confiits in the perfect 
 knowledge of the Sciences j and for the fences they fhall have their fatisfactioo 
 according to their quality. 
 
 CHAP. XX. 
 
 The Author departs from Ifpahan to Ormus, and describes the Road to 
 
 Schiras. 
 
 I Set forth out of Ifpahan the 24. of Feb. 16G5. in the afternoon, and ftai'd a 
 League from the City, in a field whither fome of my friends would needs ac- 
 company me. About ten a clock at night, I fet forward again, and travell'd till 
 break of day 5 and then I came to a place where the Radars kept guard half a 
 league from a great Town Gd\\'& Ifpjhaneck^, which you are to crofs. About ten 
 a clock in the forenoon I came to Mahiar, where t here is a very good Inn. But 
 the Land between this and Ifpahan is all very barren and without wood. 
 
 The 26th, three hours after midnight, I fet forward through a dry Plain, which 
 begins to grow more fruitful, about a League from Comfhe a great City, where 
 I arriv'd by eleven a Clock in the morning. In it are feveral Inns, and indifferent 
 handfome ones, confidering that they are built only 01' Earth. This City is com- 
 pos'd of a row of Villages that extend about halt a League in length. About 
 three quarters of a League on this fide the City ftands a neat Mofquee with a pond 
 full of fifh. But the Moullahs will not permit you to catch any, faying that they 
 belong to the Prophet to whom the Mofquee is dedicated. However becaufe it is 
 a fhady place in the Summer, Travellers rather choofe to lye by this pond,then to 
 (hut themfelves up in the City, 
 
 G g 7r 1 1* 
 
The Persian Travels Book V. 
 
 The 17th I travell'd from four in the morning till ten in the forenoon., through 
 a plain fow'd with ftore of grain , and lodg'd in an Inn call'd Makjoxbe- 
 gm. 
 
 Tlie z§th I departed two hours after midnight , and after eight hours travel 
 through a barren «plain, I arriv'd at Tefdecas, a little City built upon a rock in the 
 midft of a great Valley, and lodg'd in an Inn at the foot of the Rock. The fame 
 day in the morning I pafs'd on to a neat houfe with fine Gardens, call'd Amnebad; 
 built by Iman-Kouli-Kan,Govexv\ov ofSchiras. 
 
 The firft of March I departed an hour after midnight, and a little after I crofs'd 
 a fliort mountain, but fo rugged and fo craggie, that they have given it the name 
 of Kotel-Innel-tebekeni, that is, the Mountain that breaks the Horfes Jhoes. The *- 
 next day we pafs'd by a fcurvy Caftle call'd Gombejfala; then travelling through a 
 f.at Country, I came by ten in the morning to Dehigherdou, or the Village of 
 Wall-nuts. Iendur'dvery (harp weather all the morning, for all that Country, 
 and that which I travell'd the next day, is very cold at fome times of the 
 year. 
 
 The fecond day I travell'd from midnight till ten a clock in the morning,through 
 the Snow over a barren Plain to come to Cuz.kuz.ar, where there is a new Inn well 
 built. 
 
 The third I was a horfeback from five in the morning till noon , firft over the 
 fame Plain by a Lake fide in a very bad way cover'd with fnow that hid the holesj 
 then palTing a tedious long and rugged mountain, I defcended to a Village call'd 
 Alfepas, where there is to be feen an old ruin'd Caftle upon the point of a Hill.The 
 Inhabitants were all Georgians by defcent, but now turn'd all Mahumetans. I met 
 with wine and fifh, in regard of the many Rivolets, but the Caravanfira is old, and 
 ill provided. 
 
 The fourth, fetting out by day-break, I rode over a Plain, which Sha Abbas the 
 firft gave the Georgians to till, and in eleven hours 1 came to Ondgiom, a large Vil- 
 lage upon a River, over which there is a fair ftone bridge. 
 
 The fifth, I got a horfeback by two a clock in the morning,and had two leagues 
 in the firft place of deep miery way $ afterwards I pafs'd a fteep Mountain, craggy 
 and durty. I pafs'd through a Village call'd Iman Shade, from the name of one of 
 their Prophets that lyes buried there, and gave the Mountain its name , being 
 all cover'd with bitter Almond-trees. I travell'd fometime between rude and 
 craggy rocks , after which I met with a fmall River, which runs to Map. a little 
 City where I lodg'd in a fair Inn. 
 
 The fixth, I departed three hours after midnight, and travell'd through a large 
 Plain encompafs'd with high and rugged Mountains ; upon one of which that is 
 divided from the other, ftood a Caftle which they fay was ruin'd by Alexander the 
 Great, of which at prefenr there does not remain the leaft fign or footftep. I 
 crofs'd the river of Mayne over two ftone Bridges, and then came to Abgherme j 
 a place that ftands in a Plain where there is an Inn half built j fo call'd by reafon of 
 a Spring of hot waters that rifes not far from it. In the morning I pafs'd over a 
 fair and long Caufey, call'd Pouligor, being above foo paces long, and broad, 
 divided alfo by certain Bridges, to give the water free paflage, by reafon the 
 Country is very full of merlhes. At the end of this Caufey ftands an Inn very well 
 built, but the gnats that haunt it will not fuffer it to be frequented. I pafs'd along 
 by the foot of a Mountain, and after three hours travel, I ftopp'd a while at an 
 Inn that ftands at the foot of another fteep and craggie mountain. 
 
 I arriv'd at Schiras about fix a clock at night. But here give me leave before I 
 enter the City, to make two obfervations, the one touching the Road from Ifpa- 
 han to Schiras,xhe other concerning the ruins of Tche-elminar. 
 
 As to the Road from Ifpahan to Schiras, obferve that in winter time when the 
 Snow is fallen, when you come to Yefdccas, you muft of neceffity leave the direft 
 road, becaufe it is impoffible to pafs the ltreights of thofe Mountains,which I have 
 mention'd. Therefore you muft keep the left hand road eaftward, through the 
 PlainSjtaking a guide along with you. 
 
 This way, which is the longer by two days journey, was formerly unknown, 
 becaufe of a River, that in one place beats upon a fteep rock, and do fes up the 
 palfage. But Jman-Kouli-Kan with a vaft expence of time and money , caus'd a 
 
 way 
 
Chap. XXI. of Monfieur Tavernier. 24.7 
 
 way to be levell'd out of the Rock about ij or 20 foot above the River, which 
 he fecur'd to the water- fide with a Wall three or four foot high. This way con- 
 tinues for half a league, and then you come to lye at a great Village in a Plain 
 where you take Guides to fhew you the Fords of the River. 
 
 Having paft the River,you croft over feveral fertil Plains water'd with great itore 
 of Rivers. Then you afcend a Mountain, from whence you have but a league 
 and a half to Tcbe-elminar. 
 
 At the point of the Mountain, upon the right-hind of the great Road,are to be 
 teen twelve Pillars ftill ftanding, that form a kind of a fquare. In the fpaces of 
 the Mountain are a great number of Niche*) that are oppofit to the Pillars, and 
 4 were certainly the places where the ancient Pcrfans put their Idols. Thence yoti 
 come to Tcbe-elminar ; where are to be feen a great many old Columns, fome 
 ftanding, and fome lying upon the ground, and fome ill-fhap'd Statues, with little 
 four-fquare dark rooms. All which together, eafily perfwades me, who have well 
 confider'd the principal Pagods of India t that Tcbe-elminar was only a Temple 
 formerly dedicated to Idolatrous worfhip. And that which confirms my opinion, 
 is, that there is no place more proper for an Idolatrous Temple then this, by rea- 
 Ibn of the abundance of water. Befides, that the dark Rooms could be no other 
 then the Chambers for the Priefts, ; and where the Rice and Fruits that were the 
 feigned nourifhment of the Idols, were the better fecur'd from gnats and 
 flies. 
 
 Leaving Tche-ehninar, you come to lye at a Village half a league farther, where 
 is very good Wine. From thence to Scbiras is a hard days journey j efpecially 
 when the Snow begins to melt : for then the Road looks like a little Sea. 
 
 CKAP. XX'. 
 
 Of the City of Schiras. 
 
 THE City of Schiras lies in 78 degr. min. of Longitude, and 29 deg. 36 
 min. of Latitude. It is feated in a Plain that extends it felf about four 
 leagues from the North to the South, and from the Weft to the Eaft about five 
 leagues. Upon the South-eaft there is a Lake of (alt water four leagues in com- 
 pafs : leaving the Plain as you travel to the South, you pafs betweeatwo Moun- 
 tains, which are not fb clofe, but that they leave room for certain pleafant Valleys 
 a league and a half wide. 
 
 The Soil about Scbiras is good, and fruitful j and it is particularly famous for 
 the moft excellent Wines of all Perfia. As for the City it felf, there is nothng 
 handfbme in it : for it looks rather like a Town half ruin'd then a City. For- 
 merly it was begirt with walls of Earth, which are now utterly decaid. The 
 Houfes are of the fame Earth dri'd in the Sun, and whiten'd over with lime j fb 
 that when it happens to rain, when the Earth comes to be well moiften'd, the 
 Houfes fall of rhemfelves. Only the Colledg which Iman-Konli-Kan built, and 
 fome of the Mofijuees are are of Brick : and the beft of thofe Mofquees is call'd 
 Sba~Shiraqfie J which out of a particular devotion is kept fomewhat better in re- 
 pair. However, there is nothing in it worth taking notice of. Upon the North- 
 eaft fide, the City runs within a quarter of a league of the Mountain : and from 
 a Stone-bridg, as you go out of the City to the foot of the Mountain, is a long 
 Street in a ftreight line, where there ftands a Mofyuee, built by Iman-Konli^Kan. 
 Without, it appears fair enough i but within, it falls to ruine. There is an OBo- 
 gonal Piaz.z.a before the Gate, and in the middle of the Piaz.z,a an Otlogonal J r a[e i 
 which is fill'd by a little ftream that runs through the Street from the Mountain. 
 Both fides of the Street from the Mofauee to the Mountain arewalfd in: and at 
 certain fpaces are great Gates one againft another, with rooms over them ; the 
 Windows whereof open into the Gardens behind the walls $ all along by which 
 runs a row of Cyprefs-trees in a direct line : and in the middle of the Street 
 
 about 
 
The Persian Travels Book V, 
 
 about two hunder'd paces on this fide the Mofynee, is another Vafe, which receives 
 the fame water as it runs from the Mountain. This Street was made by Iman- 
 Kouli-Kan, after he had cut the Mountain at the end of it, to (horten the way 
 from Schiras to Ifpahan. 
 
 There are in Schiras three or four Glafs-houfes, where they make great and 
 fmall Bottles, to tra;ifport the Sweet-waters that are made in the City. There 
 are alfo made the feveral forts of Veflels wherein they pickle their fruits of all 
 forts, which they fend in great I quantities into India, to Sumatra, Batavia, and 
 other places. 
 
 There is no Silk made, nor any other manufacture in Schiras : only there are 
 fome few Chites or Painted-cloaths made there^ which neverthelefs are very § 
 coarfe, and in ufe only among the meaner fort. 
 
 As you go out of the City upon the North-weft fide, you meet with a long 
 Alley or Walk, in three parts whereof are plac'd three Stones, which they call 
 Mills. At the end of this walk is a Garden call'd Bay-Sha, or the King's Garden. 
 Over the Gate whereof is a great Room half ruin'd : and at the end of a large 
 Walk planted with Cyprefs-trees, ftands a neat piece of building, but altogether 
 neglected. Upon the left-hand whereof is a great Pond pav'd with Free-ftone, 
 being all the beauties of the Garden : which, it is true , was full of Fruit- 
 trees, Rofes and fafmins j yet, for want of order, it look'd like a Wilder- 
 neft. 
 
 From the Garden to the Hill is a Plain of two leagues long, and one broad ; 
 which is all but one large Vinyard belonging to feveral perfons. Beyond the Vinyard 
 rife very high Mountains, from whence fall feveral little Springs that form a River, 
 which is call'd Bend-Emir, from the name of a Town where the biggeft Spring 
 riles, This River of Bend-Emir waters the whole Vineyard of Schiras 5 where it 
 never rains from Spring till Autumn : which is the reafon that in the Summer 
 there is no water in the very Channel next the City. 
 
 Their Wines are the beft in Perjia ; but there is not fo great a quantity made 
 as people imagin. For, of all this great Vineyard, and in all the places round 
 about the City for four or five leagues together, good part of the Grapes are 
 dri'dj and a greater quantity pickl'd : and of the Wine, there are many VelTels 
 full, which are burnt for the benefit of the poor Travellers, and Carriers, who find 
 it a great refreftiment to drink it with water. 
 
 Their Wine, as all other things, is fold by weight, and not by meafure. In the 
 year 1666, a moft plentiful year for Wine, the Provifion of the King's Houfe 
 amounted to joooo Mens of Keukne, or the ancient Men containing nine pound 
 of ours, at fixteen ounces to the pound, (being the only weight for Wine,) and the 
 King allows as much to the Franks, as for his own Houfhold. -The Jews of Schi- 
 ras, who boaft themlelves of the Tribe of Levi, make above a hunder'd and ten 
 thoufand Mens, it being their chiefeft livelihood } but the Governour of Schiras 
 knows how to fhare with them in their profit. The whole account of Wine made 
 at Schiras amounts to 200025- Mens, or 4125^ Tuns, at three hunder'd pints to the 
 Tun. 
 
 In Schiras is an ancient Mofquee, wherein is the Sepulcher of a Sadi, whom the 
 Terfians efteem the beft of their Poets. It has been a very fair one, accompani'd 
 with a large Building, which was once a Colledg ; but it runs to ruine, as do alfo 
 many other Edifices within the City. Juft againft this Mofyuee yob defcend by a 
 pair of Stairs into a large Well, at the bottom whereof is a Fafe full of Fifli, 
 which no-body dares to touch, it being Sacriledg to rob the Sadi of what belongs 
 to him. A little beyond this Mofqnee, upon a high Rock, ftand the ruines of a 
 Caftle ; and upon the top of all the Rock is a fquare Well cut out of the Rock. 
 It is very deep, and ten or twelve foot broad : formerly, they told me., their 
 Adulterefies were all thrown into it. There is one wonderful WelVin this City ; 
 which is iy years rifing, and 15- years falling} that is, the water is one fifteen 
 years rifing to the top, and another fifteen years finking to the bottom. 
 
 There are in Schiras two or three Bazars well built^ through the midft whereof 
 the water runs in a Channel. 
 
 To the South- weft, a good league from the City, there is a little Hill divided 
 from the great Mountain, upon which Hill are three Gates to be feen, the remain- 
 der 
 
Chap XXI of Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 derof an Idolatrous Temple. There were four Gates but the South-Gate is 
 tumbl'd down : the reft are ftanding, compos'd of three Stones : Upon both the 
 Stones that make the Jaums, there are two figures in half Relief, with their faces 
 one looking upon another, with their arms extended j one holding in his hand a 
 Pan, out of which iffues a flame of fire ; and the other a Towel folded up ; The 
 other Statue holds as it were a Purfe in one hand, and a bowl of Fire in the otherj 
 the Figures being as big as the Life, only their faces are fpoil'd ; and as for the 
 other doors, they are both the lame. 
 
 Two Mufquet-fhot from thence^ in a plain, rifes a little Mountain, from the 
 North-fide of which fall many Springs that meet in a large Pond full of Fifti, 
 Some high Trees grow there, to made the Habitation of a Dervi's that lives there. 
 The place is pleafant, and all the Springs together fill a Channel large enough to 
 water the neighbouring Fields. Here it was that certainly the ancient Idolaters 
 came to waft, and thence went to the Temple to fay their Prayers, and make 
 their Offerings. 
 
 Half a league beyond, at the foot of a Mountain, is a place about joo paces in 
 compafs, whence there fall a good number of Springs that meet in a Pond, en- 
 viron'd with high Trees, and full of Fifh. In one corner of the Mountain ftand 
 Figures cut out of the Rock much bigger than the Life. The two which are 
 uppermoft look one upon another ; and that upon the left-hand carries a large 
 Turbanr, fuch as the Grand Filter of Conftantinople wears when he goes to the 
 Divan. From his Turbant to the middle of his Forhead, he was bound with the 
 Trefies of his own hair, the ends whereof were faften'd together with large 
 Buckles behind in his neck. His habit was a Robe after the ancient fafhion, with 
 a kind of a Cutlace by his fide. Nor did the oppofite Statue much differ 
 from this, only inftead of a Turbant,he wore a kind of Miter upon his head. The 
 two other Statues underneath the former, ftretch'd forth their arms one to 
 the other : the one reprefenting a Man, the other a Woman. The Man feem'd to 
 preferrt the Woman a Nofegay of Flowers $ but in truth it was a difficult thing to 
 difcern them, in regard they were both cover'd with a Fig-tree that grew juft be- 
 fore them out of the rock. 
 
 About two thoufand paces farther, there is a Lake of fait water about ten 
 leagues in compafs, which is fill'd by feveral Springs that fall from the Mountains : 
 and here it is that the people make a great quantity of Salt. There runs ipto it 
 alfo a fait River, over which you crofs upon a large ftone-Bridg about three miles 
 from Schiras, in the way to Bander-udbajfi. 
 
 Half a league from the City are two remarkable Wells : the one upon the top 
 of the Mountain, the other upon the defcent, cut out of the Rock : both of an 
 extraordinary depth. There is no water in either, becaufe they ara half full of 
 Stones, which they that come to fee the Wells, throw into 'em. There are alfo 
 to be feen the mines of a Caftle formerly built there for the Guard of the High- 
 ways. But fince Iman-Kouli-Kan made the new way, he caus'd all thofe For- 
 trefles to be defae'd, as being expenfive to the King, and burthenfome to the Mer- 
 chant, from whom the Guards exacted Toll in thofe places. Now all the ways are 
 free., and the Merchants travel fecurely. 
 
 About half a league from the City, toward the North, upon the brow of a 
 hrgh Mountain, ftands a little Mofyucc^ like a Hermitage : and fifteen foot below 
 it gufhes out a fair Spring, which is the belt in the places neer to Setnras. Neer 
 to it is a little place encompaft with a Pale, with four Pillars that uphold a Ceeling. 
 Here it is that a Dervis fits, and entertains all them that come to vifit him, to 
 whom he prefents Tobacco, according to the cuftom of the Countrey. This 
 place is one of the heft Profpe&s in all Syria, from whence you behold one way 
 all the plain of Schiras, and all the City from one end to the other, with the Gar- 
 dens. But people go not thither for the fair Profpect, or to vifit the Dervis, but 
 to admire a Cyprefs-tree not above three or four paces from the ProfpecT:, planted 
 among the Rocks ; and of that bignefs, that four men can can hardly fathom it : 
 it is proportionably high, and is look'd upon to be the faireft Cyprefs-tree in all 
 Perjia, where fo many grow befides. This Tree is fed by the Spring which I have 
 mention'd, falling fome eight or ten foot below into a Ciftern, which is always 
 full j whence through a Canal it runs into a Garden in the plain fome feveri or 
 
The Persian Travels Book V- 
 
 tight hunder'd paces from the Mountain. In this Garden arc to be feen the re- 
 mains of a Palace of one of the ancient Kings of Perjia:yet what is ftill to be feen, 
 does not declare it to have been very magnificent. The King was calPd Pad/ha 
 quiejhel,the Scald-fated King A thing not to be wpnder'd at, in regard there arc 
 few Perfians but luch as either have, or have had fcald heads. 
 
 Two leagues from Schiras, to the South-weft, at the foot of the great Moun- 
 tain, ftands a Hermitage, call'd Pir-Bou.no, where three or four Dcrvis ljve, as be- 
 ing a pleafant place j for the Dervis always choofe out the moft delightful places 
 to pitch their Tents in : where they fit fmoaking their Pipes with that gravity, 
 that if the King himfelf mould come by, they would not ftir to. give him re- 
 verence. That which adds to the pleafure of that Hermitage, is a fair Spring of 
 water that refrefhes the Garden, and the number of fair Trees that are about 
 it. 
 
 About a quarter of a league from the City, toward the Weft, is to be feen a 
 Church-yard encompaft with Walls ; in the middle whereof, looking toward 
 Mecca, ftands a Monument very much frequented by the Dervis,m& other devout 
 people, who fay their Prayers there, it being the Sepulcher of Hougia Hafiz,, for 
 whom they have a very great veneration. The year of his deceafe is fet down 
 upon his Tomb; being in the year 138 1 : and he purchas'd that great efteem 
 among the Perfians, for having compos'd a great Book of Morality, and for that 
 he was alfo one of the beftPoets ofhis time.He has left one great Poem behind him 
 in the praife of good Wine 5 which has caus'd many to aver, that Hougia-Hafiz. 
 was no good Mufful-man, in regard he has fo highly prais'd a thing which is fo 
 ftridly forbidd'n by the Law of Mahomet, 
 
 Neer to the Church- yard is a fair Garden, which men go to fee for the beauty 
 of the Cyprefs-trees, which are its chief ornament. They are to be admir'd for 
 their height and bignefs, among which there is one that was planted by the hand 
 of Sha- Abbas the Great himfelf, in the year 1607$ and it may well deferve to 
 have been planted by the hand of a Monarch ; for it was bigger then the reft that 
 had been planted above a hunder'd years before. 
 
 Without the City, upon the North-fide, at the foot of the Mountain, is a Gar- 
 den belonging to the ancient Kings of Perfia, call'd Bag-Firdons. It is full of 
 Fruit-trees, and Rofe-trees in abundance. At the end of the Garden, upon the 
 defcent of a Hill, ftands a great piece of Building, and below a large Pond af- 
 fords it water. The rich Inhabitants of Schiras have been formerly very curious 
 to have fair Gardens, and have been at great expences to that purpofe. But nei- 
 ther at Schiras, nor at Ifpahan, is there any thing, that may compare with thofe 
 lovely Paradifes of France and Italy. 
 
 There are many Inns in Schiras, but the Franks generally lodg at the Convent 
 oftheCarmelite Friars:and they that would be more private,Iodg at another Houfe 
 that belongs alfo to the fame Friars, which they would fain fell, as being a charge 
 to 'em at this time. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Chap.XXII of Monlieur Tavernier. 251 
 
 CHAP. XXII. 
 
 A continuation of the Road from Ifpalian to Ormus, from Schiras td 
 
 Bander-Aba/li. 
 
 TH E fixth of March, by eight of the Clock in the morning, I departed from 
 Schiras $ and after fix hours travel through the plain that continues fertil for 
 a league together beyond the City, I came to an Inn caW'd Badaadgi. The water is 
 bad, being as it were luke-warm. Here cold weather begins to ceafe. The next 
 day I fet out by break of day, and came to a large and well-built Inn, only it ftood 
 remote from any Town. It is calPd Monz.afferi, and is the only place in Perfiu, 
 where I met with black Saligots, or Water-nuts, as big and as good as ours in 
 Daaphine. The Countrey breeds nothing but Goats and Sheep : and about two 
 leagues off runs a River along by the Mountain to the Weir. 
 
 The i8rA I departed by day-break, and travell'd eleven hours through a ftone- 
 Countrey, cover'd with bitter Almond and Turpentine-Trees. I lodged in a fair 
 Inn,calPd Pair a, neer to a River that comes from the Weft, and makes the Coun- 
 trey fertil. There is fome Wood in the Valleys, and fome Villages appear on the 
 other fide of the River toward the South. 
 
 The 19th I fet out by four of the Clock in the morning, and travell'd along a 
 Valley, wherein were many Villages receiving the benefit of the River laft men- 
 tion'd. About eight in the morning I ftopt at an Inn built in an Otiogonal form, a 
 good league from the River, with feveral Villages between. The name of the 
 Inn is Kaffer. 
 
 The 7.0th I let out two hours after midnight, and travell'd till ten in the morn- 
 ing through a dry Valley. By the way \ met (everal Shepherds and Herdimerc„ 
 who were forfaking the hot Countreys, and driving toward Schiras for cool*- 
 nefs. 
 
 They that travel upon their own Hoi Pes,, and would fee one of the richeft part's 
 of Perjia, and fome Antiquities, letting out from Kaffer, inftead of following the 
 CV^z/tfs-road^take the right-hand way by the fide of the River, that runs a league 
 and a half from the lame Inn. When you have palt the River, the way is very 
 ftreight, and lies for two leagues together through a fteep Rock, the Mountain up- 
 on the right, and the River upon the left, where there is not room in fome places 
 for two Horfes to ride a-breft. All along this way, toward the top of the Moun- 
 tain, are little paths that lead to Caverns, fome of which are fb large, that they 
 will contain two or three thoufand men. Having paft this way, you come into a 
 Plain calPd Dadivan, four or five leagues in circuit ; the greateft part of which 
 is planted with Orange-trees, Citrons, and Granats. Some of thele Orange-trees 
 two men can hardly fathom, being as high as our Walnut-trees ; and this is one of 
 the moft delicious fituations in all Perjia. I have travell'd through it feveral 
 times, and fometimes only to divertifc my felf. The reft of the Plain is fow'd 
 with Rice and Wheat. You fet up your Tents under thefe Trees, and then the 
 Countrey people bring Provifion of feveral forts, efpecially Partridges, Hares, and 
 Wild Goats. The River that croffes the Plain is full of Carps, Barbels, Pikes, and 
 Crey-Fifh. I remember one time a Countrey-man carri'd me down to the water, 
 and before my face took up a Fifh with his hand. He was fo nimble at it, that 
 having caught one which he did not think big enough, he threw it back again, and 
 took up another. Now in regard that Travellers generally ftay about ten or 
 twelve days in that place, the Tumblers that live there-abouts, fail not to come 
 and give you a Vifit, to lhew ye fome of their tricks, and to taft your Schiras 
 Wine. The Englijh and Hollanders ufually fpend the end of the Summer in this 
 Plain, for the benefit of the River, and the Trees : which become fo large and 
 fair, by means of the River, which the Countrey-men bring in by Canals, and fhut 
 it up in Ponds, among the Trees, to water their Grounds ; which is all the good 
 this River does in Perjia : for all the reft of its courfe is through cragged Rocks a 
 and fait Marfhes. 
 
 H h The 
 
> The Persian Travels Book V. 
 
 The zoih of Marc-}) by ten in the morning, I came to an Inn which was call'd 
 Mot.Jkel^, which is a-lone-Houfe at the foot of a Rock. There is a Spring about 
 five hunderd paces from it, but the water is hot, and has a iulphury taft j fb that 
 the Cattel will hardly drink it. Therefore you muft go to a Ciltern about two 
 Mufquet (hot from the Inn, where there is one newly let up, inlread of another 
 that was there before, into which a Jew once chanc'd to fall in, and was therefore 
 broken by the fuperftitious Mahometans. 
 
 Three quarters of a league from Motifhetz. are two roads that lead to Lar, the 
 one for the Camels, the other for the Horfes and Mules. The tirit is the long- 
 eft by three days journey, and is call'd the Road of the Defert j for after you 
 have paft a great Town inhabited only by CameT- Ma Iters, where you lye the firft 
 night, between that and Lar, you {hall meet with nothing of Houles but only 
 Herdfmens Tents, that feed (ometimes in one place, fometimes in another. Upon 
 the Camels Road there are another fort of Fowl like the great Partridges in their 
 bodies, but their legs and feet reiemble thofe of wild Ducks. The Camels take 
 this Road, becaufe it is impoflible for them to pals the Mountain farrow, over 
 which the Horfes and Mules are hardly able to travel. 
 
 I let out from Monjhekjfoz zitb of March, at two in the morning, and having 
 travell'd till eight through a plain, but ftony Countrey, I came to the little City of 
 farron, which is rather to be call d a Forreft of Palm-trees that bear excellent 
 Dates. I lodg'd in an Inn five hunder'd paces from the City, and ftaid there two 
 days. 
 
 • The 24^, (etting out prefently after midnight, I travell'd a good hour, and then 
 I began to mount the fteep Mountain of farron, which is very high, and \ ery long j 
 but the defcent is the moft dangerous that ever I faw in all my Travel^and besides 
 that, the Moon did not ihir.e. Being at the top, after you have defended three or 
 four hunder'd paces, you meet with a Bridg of one Arch, that reaches from one 
 Mountain to another : a bold piece of Architecture, not enough to be admir'd, 
 being rais'd at the charges of Imatt-Xefili-KaH for the benefit of Travellers. Be- 
 ing come to the bottom of this, you muft pafs two others as fteep in their afcent 
 as in the defcent 5 upon the top of one of which ftands a Ciftern, which, though 
 it be very large, is generally emptied by the end of the Summer. Upon thefe 
 Mountains there is fuch an infinite quantity of Purtridg, that a man cannot miCs 
 that will but Ihoot. By eight in the Morning I came to an Inn which is call'd 
 Shakal y which is a-lone Houfe in a Defert Countrey, but ftor'd with bitter Almond- 
 trees, and Turpentine-trees. Approaching necr to the Inn, you. meet with two 
 or three Cifterns, which are a great comfort to Travellers, water being very 
 fcarce upon this Road. There are at Shakaln'me or ten Radars for the Guard of 
 the Road, who are alio Mafters of the Inn : So mon as you are alighted, they ask 
 you if you will eat any Kid, being fure of their blow, and having no more to do 
 but to go to the Mountain and fetch one, where they Iwarm. There are ftore of 
 Partridges, which are almoft as big as Pullets ; of which you may eafily kill as 
 many as you pleafe. 
 
 The z<$th I travell'd five hours, from morning till noon. An hour after I took 
 Horfe, I met with a Mountain, the defcent whereof was very fteep. They call it 
 the Mountain of Hujhen, at the foot whereof is a Fountain of excellent water. 
 A good league farther you meet with a fair Inn call'd Mouez.ere, in the midft of a 
 plealant Grove, where there is an excellent Spring of water; but becau/e there 
 is no food to be had, you muft go as far as Detadombe, a Village feated in a plain. 
 A quarter of a league on this fide, upon the top of a Mountain, appears the ruins 
 of an old Caftle ; the Village it (elf being furrounded with Palm-trees. The Inn 
 is a good one, provided with a very good Ciftern. 
 
 The 2 I travell'd through a plain for three hours, and ftopt at Banarott, a lit- 
 tle City well built, at the foot of a high Mountains upon which appears the re- 
 mains of a large Caftle. Benarou is the Frontier Town of the Province of Fars, 
 bordering upon the Province of Lar. 
 
 The z6tb I departed an hour after midnight, and travell'd till nine in the morn- 
 ing, partly through the Plain, and partly through the Mountains; where i /aw an 
 old Tower for the guard of the Road. I ftaid at Bibrj, a little City leated uj on a 
 plain, that borders upon a high Mountain. The Inn is new, and very magnifi- 
 cently 
 
Chap.XXII. of Monfieur Tavernier* 
 
 - 1 ■ i.- i. . ■ ■ ■■ — ■ • ■■ ■ — — 1 — — — . . 
 
 cently built by the Mother of Aimas, Kan of Lar, when the great Sha-Abbat 
 took this Countrey from the Gaures , whom he conftrain'd to turn Maho- 
 metans. 
 
 The 2jth I fetout at four of the Clock in the morning, and about feven I paft 
 through a Village feated in a fmall plain. A league from thence I Iodg'd in an Inn 
 calPd Pai-Cotali ; that is to fay, the foot of the Mountain, as being built at the 
 foot of the Mountain. From thence to Lar is not above four or five hours tra- 
 velling ; but the way is very bad , and feveral fwift Torrents are to be 
 paft over. 
 
 You may take another Road from Bihry, upon the right-hand toward the Weft ; 
 it is the fhorter way by two or three leagues : but fo bad, and fo narrow, that in 
 many places two Horfemen cannot ride a-breft, being for the moft part all Rocks 
 and Precipices. 
 
 Lar is the Capital City of the Province of the fame name, which formerly 
 bore the title of a Kingdom. It is but of an ordinary bignefs, enclos'd on both 
 fides with high Mountains, being built round about a Rock, upon which there 
 fiands a Caftle of Free-ftone, wherein the King keeps a Garrifon. The whole 
 Country is very hot, nor have they any water but Rain water, which they pre- 
 serve in Cifterns, and which fometimes caufes a wide Torrent that runs by one 
 fide of the City, and falls from a Cafcade two ftories high, made of Free-ftone. In 
 the City and parts adjacent, grow a great number of trees, efpecially Date trees 
 and Tamarisk. The Gardens alfo and Mountains are full of Orange trees. 
 
 There are but two Inns in Lar, the one within the City, which is not a very 
 good one ; the other at the end of the City toward Ormus, which would be 
 convenient,but that it is always afloat when the Rains fall; for which reafon the' 
 Franks generally lye at the Hollanders Houfe at the end of the City. And there 
 is a neceflity for ftaying at Lar, to change the Camels ; for the Camels that come 
 from Ifpa/jan can go no further ; every City having their particular priviledges. 
 Which fometimes proves prejudicial to the Merchant, in regard the GovernOur 
 will delay the change of the Camels till he is prcfented. 
 
 The Fortrefs of Lar takes up the whole furface of the top of the Rock $ and 
 there is but one way to climb it up, with great difficulty*. It is more long than 
 broad ; and the four corners are fortifi'd with four Baftions, or Bulwarks, between 
 which are rais'd feveral Towers, for the Souldiers Lodgings. That Fortrefs is the 
 Royal Prifbn, whither the King fends fuch Prifoners as he takes in war, or fur- 
 prizes by ftratagem. I met with two there, one a Prince of Georgia, the other 
 of Mengreha. The two Princes had each of them a Toman a day allow'd them, 
 and ten or twelve Servants to wait upon them. Upon one of the corners of the 
 Caftle, toward the Weft, was built a Banquetting Houfe with three or four Cham- 
 bers. In the middle of the Court ftands the Magazine, full of Bows and Arrows, 
 Bucklers and Muskets, enough to arm fifteen hundred men. For the Inhabitants 
 of the Province, but more efpecially of the City of Lar, are accounted the belt 
 Mufqueteers in Per fix, and the beft at making the Barrels of Muskets, all but the 
 Breach, which they know not how to order fo well as we. The Governours Houfe 
 anfwers to the great Road 5 but there is nothing at all of neatnefs without, only 
 before the door there is a good handfome Court, about fixty paces fquare, and 
 clos'd in with Walls, which leads you into two large Bazars of good Stone, very 
 well arch'd. 
 
 The moft part of the Inhabitants of Lar are Jews, who are famous for feveral 
 Silk Manufactures, efpecially for making neat Girdles. The Countrimen were up- 
 on their heads a kind of a felt of fine wool, and very well wrought. It refembles 
 a Cap not yet fhap'd, with four Corners behind, and cut on the fidesjand thefe fort9 
 of Caps are made at Kerman. 
 
 There are an infinite ntfmber of Cifterns, as well within the City, as in the parts 
 adjacent ; and all but little enough, in regard that fometimes it does not Rain for 
 three years together. When the Rains fall they do not fill their Cifterns the firft 
 day,, but rather cover them quite up, till the earth be well foak'd. Now for the 
 diftribution of this water they take an excellent courfc j for they never keep open 
 above three Cifterns at a time ; and when they do op'n them, the Governour or 
 fome other perfon appointed for that purpofe, is prefent ; Co precious is water 
 
 H h a in 
 
Tbf- Persian Travels 
 
 Book V. 
 
 in that place, though never fo bad. The warer thus ftanding in the Cifterns fome- 
 times for many years together, breads worms, fo that whither you ftrain it, or 
 boil it, there will appear a kind of foulnefs in it, which is the feed of thefc worm?. 
 And this corruption it is that breeds worms in the legs and feet of men ; which 
 puts me in mind , that after my return to Paris, the fifth time of my 
 travelling, I had one came out of my left foot an Ell an a half long, and another 
 from under the ankle of my right foot half an Ell long. 
 
 . The firft of April I fet out from Lar by five in the morning, and travel I'd till . 
 three in the afternoon, through a barren ftony Country, except it were only one 
 Village call'd Tcherl&ki near to which I met with fome Corn-land, and feveral 
 Palm-trees. Ilodg'd at a little Inn call'd Sh*mz.engbi. It is low, built like a 
 Crofs, with four doors to receive the cool winds every way. All the Inns are 
 built in this fafhion between this and Bander, and near to one another for the eafe 
 of Travellers. As for the Beads, thev Ive without, for they have no Stables. All 
 the Houfes from Lar to Ormus are built after one manner. For there is a kind 
 of a Pipe, like a Chimney, that runs from the bottom to the top to gather wind. 
 
 The fecond I left Shamz.er.gbi about four in the afternoon, becaufe the heat is 
 cool'd by a gentle breeze toward the evening. Three hours I travell'd through a 
 barren Plain, afterwards over moft fearful Rocks, and about ten at night I came 
 to Cormoht, a great Village well ftor'd with Palm-trees. 
 
 From Lar to Common* is the worft way in all Perfi.i. For many times there is 
 no water to be found. 
 
 The third,I parted from Cirmout a little after midnight ; and having travell'd fe- 
 ven hours in very bad way, full of great ftones and filthy puddles, I came to a 
 new Inn call'd TenquidaLen. In the middle of it is a little vafe of running water, 
 fed by a little ftream that falls from the Mountain. But the water being fome- 
 thing brackifh, they have lince that built a very fair Cittern. Thevalfo broached 
 the Mountain to bring the water into a Plain, which was banTi)" before, but is 
 now fruitful, and beautifid with two good Villages. This WuS done by a rich 
 Merchant, whole Children enjoy the Revenues of both. 
 
 The fourth,I fet forward an hour after midnight, and travell'd through an un- 
 inhabited Countrey, full of wide Torrents when the rain falls. There are but 
 two fmall Inns upon the Road, and about eight in the morning I arriv'd at that 
 which they call Gourba-Sarghant. It was built with the Money which a Merchant 
 of Ormus left for that purpofe ; whofe ltrength fail'd him in that very place, for 
 want of a refting place. This Inn is not far from a Village that ftands upon the 
 Mountain to the North. 
 
 The fifth, fetting out a little after midnight, I travell'd till feven in the morning 
 through a dry and defert Countrey, vet ftor'd with Lentisk-trees, and lay at a good 
 Village call'd CaUvrtftan, where the peoj le were mowing large Fields of Barly. 
 Here, if the Inn be full, you may lye at the Countrey-mens Houfes, who are ac- 
 cuftom'd ro entertain Travellers, and get well bv it. This place is famous for 
 water- Melons, as big as our Pumpkins ; and are the beft in all Pe,fi,i. The meat 
 is very red, and as fweet as Sugar, which is a great refrefhment to Travellers. 
 The Ketonter of the place gave me two Raddifhes, one weighing 30, the other 4^ 
 pounds, and were very good meat. 
 
 The 6th I fet out after midnight, and travell'd till it was day through plains of 
 Sand, over which it is impoffible to find the way without a guide. About three 
 a Clock in the morning I crofs'd over two Bridges joyn'd together by a long 
 Caufey. Before I came to the firft, T rode over another for a good quarter 
 of a league^ which Caufey runs on a great way to the fecond Bridg, under 
 which flows a fait River; the fhoar of which is full of moving lands j Co 
 that before rhofe Bridges were made, it was dangerous to foard it without a 
 guide. 
 
 This Caufey and the two Bridges were made and built by a Perfian, whofe name 
 was Alj ; who wanting employment at home, apply'd himfclf to rhe King of 
 Golconda, who lik'd him fo well, that he made him General of his Army. Being 
 thus advane'd, he alfo turn'd Merchant, and trading firft with one Veffel, then with 
 two, got a great Eftate. At length, all that he hod thus got in forty years, to 
 get himfelf a name in Per/la, he employ'd in making this Caufey and the two 
 Bridges. Thefe 
 
Chap.XXllI. 0/ Monfieur Tavernier. 
 
 Thele Bridges are both built over a River that comes from toward Kerman, 
 and is fwell'd by other ftreams that fall from the Mountains with a great 
 noife, and difcharges it (elf into the Perfian Gulph, neer to Bander-Congo j 
 but becomes brackith by palling through Mountains that are nothing but Salt. 
 
 From the great Bridg to Guucbi is one of the molt plealant Countries in all 
 Perfia, being a continu'd Grove. Gmtchi is a place accommodated with two Inns, 
 one a very fair one, and convenient ; the other very ill leated, by reafon of the 
 dult that continually annoys it. ftanding upon a fandy ground. It ftands neer ten 
 or twelve Arabian Tents ; Co that as loon as you come to the Inn, the Arabian 
 Women prefently bring Milk and Butter, and other refrefhments. 
 
 A league and a half from Gmtchi you meet with two Roads, one upon the left- 
 hand that feems more beaten, the other upon the right. There a man may 
 eafily be deceiv'd that has no guides. For the left-hand way is a dangerous paf- 
 lage, and a kind of a continu'd Labyrinth among Rocks and Precipices. The 
 right-hand way, which is the beft, is all upon the land to Bander- Abaffi, and is 
 ufuallv a days journey. You meet with two Inns by the way, the latt of which 
 is call'd Bend- AH, built by the Sea-fide. 
 
 From Ben-Ali to Batder-Aeajfi, is but a little more then two leagues through, 
 a Countrey abounding in Palm-trees. 
 
 CHAP. XXIIJ. 
 Of the ijlatid cf Ormus, arJ f/'Eandcr-Aba.Ti. 
 
 ORmw is an Ifland in 92. d. qz.m. of Longitude, and in i^.d. 30. m. of Lati- 
 tude. It lies at the mouth of the Perfian GtU'pb, two good Leagues from 
 the firm Land. There is neither tree nor herb that - rows in it : for it is all over 
 cover'd with Salt, which is very good and as white as fnow. And as for the 
 black mining Sand-dull of Qrj&tts, it is very much us d for ltandiOes. 
 
 Before the Portuguefes came to Ormm, there was a City where the Kings of 
 Ormus, who. were alfo Kings of Larr, refided. When the Portugits took it there 
 were in it two young Princes, Sons of the deceaied Ki g, whom rhev carri'd into 
 Spam. Where, in regard they were handlomclv pfcoportiofo'dj though fomewhat 
 fwarthy, the King entertain'd them very kindlv, end gave them an honourable al- 
 lowance. One day that he had fhew'd them the Ef.urial, and all the chief pieces 
 of Architecture in Madrid, the King ask'd them what they, thought of living in 
 Spain. To whom they anfwer'd s that thev had fefeh nothing but what was worthy 
 admiration, but then fetch'ng a deep ligh, and p*eW< ring the King defirous to 
 know the meaning of it, they gave him to understand that it was for grief that 
 they muft never more fit under their own Tree. For near to the City of Ormus 
 was a B.mnians tree, being the only tree that grew in the Ifland. 
 
 The Portugal* being mutters of the Ifland from an ill-built City, rear'd it to that 
 hight of Magnificence which that Nation admin's 5 lo that the very barrs of their 
 doors and windows were all guilt. The Fortrels was a noble thing, and in good 
 repair: and they had alfo a ftately Church dedicated to the Virgin, where they 
 were alfo wont to walk. For other place of promenading thev had none. Since 
 the Perfian s took it, the Cattle indeed ftands in good repair, with a Garrifon in 
 it : but the City is gone to ruine j for the Dutch carried moft of the ltones away 
 to build Battavia. 
 
 Between the Ifland of Ormus, and the Continent the Sea is not very deep ; for 
 the great fhips that fail in and out of the C7«/£pafs bv the other fide of the Ifliand. 
 As for the Fortrefs which ftands upon a poynt of the Ifland, it is almoft encompats'd 
 with the Sea, and lyes right over againft Perfia. 
 
 Bander Abajft, fo callM becaufe the great Sba- Abbas the firft brought it into re- 
 putation, is at prefent a City reafonably well built , and ftor'd with large ware- 
 houfes, over which are the lodgings of the Merchants.While the Portuguefes kept 
 Ormus 3 though they liv'd in the Citv, all the trade was at Bandar-Abajft, as being 
 the moft fecure Landing-place upon all the Coaft. About if years ago it was an 
 op'n town, but becaule it was an eafie thing then to get into the Town, and rob 
 
The Persian Travels 
 
 Book V. 
 
 the Cuftome-houfe in the night, it has bin fince enclos'd with walls. To this place 
 come all the fhips that bring Commodities from India for Perfia, Turkie , or any 
 part of Afta or Europe. And indeed it would be much more frequented by the 
 Merchants from all Regions and Countries. 
 
 But the Air of Bander is fo unwholefome and fo hot, that no ftrangers can live 
 ^there, in probability of health, unlefs it be in the months of December January Fe- 
 bruary and March ; though the Natives of the Country may perhaps ftay without 
 prejudice to the end of April. After that they retire to the cooler Mountains, 
 two or three days journey off, for five or fix months, where they eat what they 
 gain'd before. They that venture to flay at Gomron during the hot weather, get 
 a malignant Fever, which if they fcape death, is hardly ever cur'd. However it 
 bequeaths the yellow Jaundies during life to the party. March being pafs'd the 
 wind changes, and blowing at weft fouth weft, in a fhort time it grows fb hot 
 and fo ftifling, that it almoft takes away a mans breath. This wind is by the Ara- 
 ■ bians call'd El-Samiel, or the poyfbnous wind, by the Per fans Bade-Sambour , be- 
 caufe it fuffocates and kills prefently. The flefh of them that are thus ftifl'd feels 
 like a glewie fat , and as if they had been dead a month before. 
 
 In the year 1632. riding from Ifpahan to Bagdat, I and four more Per fan Mer- 
 chants had bin ftifl'd but for fome Arabians that were in our Company. For 
 when they perceiv'd the wind, they caus'd us to light, lye down upon our bellies 
 and cover our felves with our Cloaks. We lay fo for half an hour, and then riling 
 we faw our horfes were in fuch a fweat, that they were hardly able to carry us. 
 This happen' d to us two days journey from Bagdat. But this is obfervable, that 
 if a man be in a Boat upon the water when the fame wind blows, it does ho harm 
 though he were naked at the fame time. Sometimes the wind is fo hot that it 
 burns like Lightning. 
 
 And as the Air of Gomron is fo bad and dangerous, the foil is worth nothing ; 
 For it is nothing but Sand, ,nor is the water in the Cifterns very good. They that 
 will be at the charge fetch their water from a fount/in three leagues from Bander, 
 call'd the water of IJJin. Formerly there was not an h:*rb to befcen : but by often 
 watering the ground, Lettice, Radifh and Onions have begun to grow. 
 
 The People are fwarthy, and wear nothing about them but only a fingle fhirt. 
 Their ufual dyet is dates and fifh. Which is almoft the dyet of their Cattel, for 
 when they come home from browfing the barren bufhes , they give them the 
 heads and guts of their fifh boyl'd, with the kernels of the Dates which they eat. 
 
 The Sea of Bander produces good Soles, good Smelts and Pilchards. They that 
 will have oyftcrs muft have 'em caught on purpofe,for the people eat none. 
 
 Upon Land they want neither for wine of Schir as nor Tefd; nor for Mutton, Pi- 
 geons and Partridge,which are their ordinary dyet. 
 
 There are two Fortreffes, one upon the Eaft, the other toward the Weft. The 
 Town increafes in trade and building, and fills with inhabitants, who build their 
 houfes with the remaining ruins of Ormits. 
 
 The reafon why the Trade is fettl'd rather at Bander Abaff, then at Bander Con- 
 go, where the Air is good and the Water excellent/is becaufe that between Ormm 
 and Congo lie feveral Iflands, which make the paffage for fhips dangerous, befides 
 that the often change and veering of the wind is requir'd : neither indeed is there 
 water enough for a VefTel of 20 or 2j guns. Then the way from Congo to Lar is 
 very bad. From Bander Abaffi to Lar it is very good, and provided with good 
 Inns. 
 
 • From the day that a Merchant takes up mony at Gomron, he is bound to return 
 it in three months, and the change goes from fix to twelve per Cent. When the 
 Goods come to Ifpahan or any other place, the Merchant is nor to touch them, 
 till he has pay'd the money which he borrow'd, unlefs the Creditor will truft 
 him farther. Some Turkifh and Armenian Merchants take up money at Gomron to 
 pay it at Suratt ; where they take up other money for Ifpahan ; at Ifpahan for 
 Erz.erom or Bagdat , paying the old debt with the new fums, which they take up 
 in each place. The money taken up at Erz.erom is pai'd at Bur fa, Confantiuiple or 
 Smyrna. Money taken up at Bagdat is pai'd at Aleppo. 
 
 I always made accompt,that to take up money at Golcoxda for Ligorn or Venice, 
 at change for change,the money returns at the cheapeft rate, to 95" per Cent, but 
 more oftentimes it amounts to a hunder'd. CHAP. 
 
Chap.XXIV. */MonfieurT A VERNIER. 257 
 
 CHAP. XXIV. 
 
 Of the Road by Land from Casbin to Ifpahan to the Frontiers of the 
 Territories of the Great Mogul, through Candahar. 
 
 THe moft ufua! road from Ifpahan to Candahar, which the Merchants choofe 
 in regard of the plenty of water which they meet with,lies thus, 
 
 From Ifpahan to Sakunegi. Agats 7 
 
 From Sakunegi to Mouchena de Radar. 10 
 From Mouchena de Radar to Nannj. 8 
 From Nanm to TDanaraquie. 
 From Danaraquie to Bafabad. 
 From Bafabad to Abiger. 
 From Abiger to BtabanatJ. 
 From BtabanaEl to Cafe fa. 
 From Cafeni to Samagi, 
 From Samagi to Sadarou. 
 From Sadarou to Chechme-cha. 
 from Chechme-cha to Karte. 
 From .fozW 1 ? to7I/^,ville. 
 From 7!/&zj loEfpaque. 
 From Efpaque to 'Ttoque. 
 From Teoque to Talkeaue. 
 From Talkeaue to Cor*. 
 From Grj to Tefaitan. 
 From Tefaitan to Berjan. 
 From Berjan to Mot/. 
 From Mo// toSarbicha. 
 From Sarbicha to A/oȣ. 
 From Afo«£ tcfDourat. 
 From Hour at to Chechmeband. 
 From Chechmeband to ii'e/j. 
 ' From i^f/j to fonz, ville. 
 From Fjnz to Tecourmazetan. 
 From Tecourmazetan to J^.z^f. 
 From «S>'tf& to Bacon. 
 From Bacon to Hilar am. 
 From Hilar am to Chaqui lan. 
 From Chaquilan to Hexkak* 
 From Hexkak to Gr/n6f,vi!!e. 
 From Griche to Kouskienogout. 
 From Kouskienogout to Candahar. 
 
 All this while the Men ride upon Horfes, and the goods are carri'd by 
 Camels. 
 
 The City of Candahar is the chief of one of the Conquer'd Provinces of Pfr/w ; 
 having been often the occafion of war between the Kings of P^r/M and 7»rf;Vi. Ac 
 length SA* became Mafter of it, the Prince that then raign'd there, 
 
 choofing to put himfelf under the Prote&ion of the King of P<?r/£* rather then of 
 great Mogull: but upon this condition, that the Governour mould be always one 
 of his race. And therefore Ahmerdan-Kan was the Son of the laft Prince of 
 Candahar. That Prince left behind him fuch. a vaft Treafury , that his Plate 
 
 '5 
 1 5 
 
 9 
 
 5 
 
 10 
 
 8 
 
 J 4 
 4 
 
 7 
 7 
 6 
 
 JO 
 
 9 
 7 
 7 
 5 
 
 7 
 1 1 
 
 6 
 10 
 10 
 6 
 6 
 4 
 
 4 
 
 4 
 1 z 
 
 10 
 
 1 1 
 
 The Perfi- 
 
 ans coatfj 
 the difiances 
 of places by 
 Agais, th.it 
 make a large 
 Provence 
 League. 
 
TFe~V e r s i a N Travels 
 
 Book V. 
 
 was all of Gold, and he had fo much Gold in his Coffers, that when he went 
 to the Great Mogul he would not accept of any thing for his maintenance, 
 but contented himfelf with one of the higheft Dignities in the Empire , 
 which he enjoy'd till his death. At febanabad he built a molt neat Houfc. with 
 a fair Garden upon the River. 
 
 He got his wealth in fome meafure, for the greateft part came by Inhe- 
 ritance, by the great advantages which he made of the Caravans that then 
 pafs'd oft'ner through Cand.ibar then they do now adays. For bv delaying 
 the Merchants at the Cuftome-houfe, and by treating them himfelf, and re- 
 ceiving treatments from them again, he caus'd them to fpend their Provlfi- 
 ons which they were forc'd to recruit again at Candahar, 
 
 The Grand Sha Abbas left the peaceable PofJemon of Candahar to $ba» 
 Sefi his Grand-child. In whofe time Alimcrdan- Km deliver'd it up to the 
 Great Mogtl. Ska Abbas the Second retook it in the year 165-0. Where- 
 upon Sha-gehan fent his eldeft Son to drive him out. But though his Army 
 confifted of three hundred thoufand men, yet the place was fo well defend- 
 ed that he bft the belt part of his Army before it. The next year Sba- 
 jeban fent another Army under the Command of S^ttan-Sujdh , but he had 
 no better fuccefs then his Brother. Thereupon Begum Sabeb, Sba-]c- ban's el- 
 deft Daughter, and paflionately belov'd by him even to Inceft, bearing the 
 greateft (way in the Kingdom, and having a vaft Treafurc, rais'd an Army 
 at her own charges, and made Aurengzeb Commander of it. After many af- 
 faults, Aurengz^eb difcourfing with his Generals one day who fhculd have the 
 honour if he took the City , and being told that his Sifter would have the 
 honour in regard (he had rais'd the Army, the Prince either jealous of his 
 Sifter, or elfe not loath to give occafion of being envy'd by his Brothers , af- 
 (aulted it no more, and when the rains came, rais'd his fiege. 
 
 A. The Principal Citadel. 
 
 B. Another Citadel. 
 
 C. The Mountain that reach'd to the next Citadel, which Sha Sefi cut away after 
 he took the City. 
 
 D. The Governours Houfe. 
 
 E. The Lodgings for the Officers and Souldiers. 
 
 F. The fiaxxM of the City. 
 
 G. The great ftreet. 
 
 H. The two Caufeys that lead to the City. 
 
 /. The Path that leads from the Merjh to the City. 
 
 K. The leflfer way that leads from the City to the Citadel. 
 
 Thus I have finifh'd the molt confiderable Obfervations as well in reference 
 to Turkic as to Perfia. I have been curious to underftand things, and have lookt 
 with a ftridt eye upon them : and I am oblig'd to inform the Reader, that he 
 muft not travel into Afia, in expectation of mending his experience in any of the 
 nobler Arts of Painting, Sculpture, Goldfmiths work, or Turning. As for the 
 Coverlets, Embroideries, TilTues of Gold and Silver, which are made in Ferfia, 
 and which we admir'd formerly in France, all thele give place to our new 
 manufactures. Infomuch that the Perjians themfelves admire the rich goods of 
 Europe, and when we carry any thither, they are immediately bought up by 
 the King and the Nobility. They neither underftand any thing of Architefture : 
 nor is there any thing in all Afia that equalls the Riches and Beauty of the 
 Loure 3 or of any other of the Kings houfes in France, which infinitely excell in 
 workmanfhip all the magnificence of the Eaftern Monarchs. Which has made 
 me with aftonifhment admire that fo many Travellers have afcrib'd to Perfia 
 and other Regions of Afia, thofe beauties for which they were never beholding 
 either to Art or Nature. For if all they have faid had been true, thofe won- 
 ders could never have efcaped my fight j and I dare alfure the Reader that I have 
 defcrib'd the naked truth of" things as really they are. 
 
 The End of the Relations of Perfia : and of 
 the firjl Part of Afian Travels. 
 
The Index. 
 
 * -a- * 4. * * t. *. .#, A, A, A. A? A, Aj A. .4? A? A. A. A. Jfe A, A. A. A, A. A? A. A? A. A, A? A, 
 
 ffwfiffffimrifififffiwrf'iffi'iif 
 
 THE 
 
 INDEX 
 
 TO THE 
 
 Perfian Travels. 
 
 A. 
 
 ACcident that befell the Author 
 at Balfara. 64,65. 
 Aleppo defer ib'd, 57. 
 Alexandretta, 55. The road dan- 
 gerous for Ships, ib. 
 
 Ali-Kouli-Kan his Story, 218, 
 219. 
 
 Allachars,-- vid. Philadelphia. 
 
 Almanack Perfian, 234. 
 
 Almerdan-Kan delivers up Can- 
 dahar to the Mogul, 198. His an- 
 fwer to the Mogul, ib. 
 
 Amadan defcrWd, 1$. 
 
 Amadie, 108. 
 
 Amafia, 4. ' 
 
 Anna, 1 1 1. 
 
 Antioch, 56. 
 
 Aphian Caraflar, 37. 
 
 Arabian Trinces exacl from the 
 Caravans, 59, 61, 63. 
 
 Aras anciently Araxes, 9. 
 
 Arbele Tlain, 73. 
 
 Arch-Bifhop of Armenia, 16. 
 
 Ardevol defer ib V, 24. 
 
 Armenians, their behaviour at 
 Church, 1 3. Removd by Sha-Abbas, 
 1 6. Their Religion, ib. Their cuflom 
 before meals, 1 8 . Great Traders, 
 159. Their Languages, ib. Their 
 Marriages, i-ji. Their Chriflnings, 
 171, t3c. Their Burials, 173. 
 
 Artaxate, 13. 
 
 Afiaticks idle, 
 
 Afparagus wild, $. 
 
 Aflaque, 1 14. 
 
 Aftracan, 116. 
 
 Aftrology admird by the PerG- 
 ans, 134. 
 
 Athemadoulet, vid. Officers. 
 Athens, 1 21. 
 Aydar, 195. 
 
 y ft 
 
 BAgdat defcriUd, pag. 84. 
 Balfara, 88. 
 Baker, how punijh'd, 234. 
 Bandee-Abalfi, 255. 
 Bannians expeWd by Sha-Aba$ # 
 202. 
 
 Baptifm of the Armenians, 171. 
 
 I i St, 
 
26o 
 
 The Index. 
 
 St. Bartholomew, 16, 17. 
 
 Baflia of Cyprus, 81. 
 
 Bedovins, what ; and how they 
 live, 66. 
 
 Beauty among the Arabs, 1 1 2. 
 
 Betlis, 105. 
 
 Bey, what, 105, 106. 
 
 Bijhop Armenian bur id, 18. 
 
 Books Perfian, 227, 229. 
 
 Bread, how made in the Defert, 
 6i. 
 
 Bufalo's ; -- fghting of Bufalo's, 
 an Armenian [port, 1 2. 
 
 C. 
 
 Achan, pag. 20. 
 Calaat, how receivd by the 
 
 Kans, 236. 
 
 Camels, their breeding, nature, 
 and federal forts, 
 
 Came I- drivers, a rude fort of 
 people, 48. One kilfd by a Cafer, 
 ib. Great cheats, 50. 
 
 Candahar defer iff d, 258. 
 
 Caudy, remarks upon the Trade 
 of it, 118. 
 
 Carriage what, 11. Where paid, 
 
 Caravans, where they fet out, 2. 
 Consframd to ft op, 8, 9, 1 1. 
 
 Caravanferas, the order among 
 them, 45. 
 
 Casbin, 26. 
 
 Cazerom, 65. 
 
 Ceremony of the Taper among the 
 Armenians, and the occafion, 12. 
 At the Enthronement of the King, 
 200, &c. 
 
 Chamber of the King's Accounts, 
 227. 
 
 Charkliquen defcrib'd, 6. 
 
 Children of the Kings of Perfia, 
 how bred, 196. 
 
 Chimneys, how made in Perfia, 
 238. 
 
 Chio, 119. 
 
 Chriftians of St. John, and their 
 opinions, 90, t§c. 
 
 Chryfoftom's Rock, 6. 
 
 Churches, the three Churches, 10, 
 11. The richnefs of the Armenian 
 Churches, 12, 13. 
 
 Circaiha, 126. Cuftoms of the peo- 
 ple,! 29. 
 
 Civility of two Arabians very 
 remarkable, 11 1. 
 
 Coffee- houfes mfpecled by Sha- 
 Abas, 1 54. 
 
 Colltdges Perfian, 227- 
 
 Comania , 126. Cuftoms of the 
 people, 129. 
 
 Combat between two Bulls, one 
 calfd AJi, the other Mahomet, 29. 
 
 Comouks , their Cuftoms and 
 FeasJs, u%,f$c. 
 
 Conftancy of the Armenians in 
 defending their Religion, 174. 
 
 Corgia Pevrus his Wealth, 159. 
 
 Corinth, nr. 
 
 Coron, ib. 
 
 Corou, 31. 
 
 Covents Armenian, 16. 
 
 Courriers Arabian ufe 'Dromeda- 
 ries for (peed, 61. 
 
 Coins of Perfia, .50, &c. 
 
 Curtijrns, how distinguifttd, 86. 
 
 Cuftomers of Bagdat, 8 3. 
 
 Curdcs, a ft range fort of Arabs, 
 106. 
 
 Cuftoms of Perfia, 234. 
 Cyclades I/lands, 1 20. 
 Byprian Birds, 80. 
 Cyprus defcrib'd, 79. 
 
 D. 
 
 D Anger of leaving the Cara- 
 van, pag. 6. 
 Darius, 73. 
 
 Debauchery puniJUd, 232. 
 Dengbe, 26. 
 
 Dervichs, the ftrange reverence 
 they gave to Sultan Amurat, 60. 
 
 De\ert defcrib'd, 61. 
 
 Diarbeguir defer ib'd, 104. 
 
 Diet of the Perfians, 241. 
 
 Difeafes a/' Perfia, 239. Their 
 Cure, 240. 
 
 Difpofition of the Perfians, 235. 
 
 Domenico Santis, the sJory of 
 him, 7i, 9 £c> 
 
 Dromedaries ; fee Courrier. 
 
 Duties, where paid, 9, 10, 14,1 8, 
 20,59,106,107,112,115, 116. 
 
 Eccli- 
 
The I 
 
 N D E X. 
 
 E» 
 
 ECclifia, 17. 
 Emba{jado>-s expences born in 
 Penia, 14. 
 
 Emb ijfador Indian, the sJory of 
 him, 65. 
 
 Emirs of Arabia, 65, 64. 
 Ephcfus, 34. 
 
 Erivan defcrib'd, 13. Betraid ; 
 retaken by the Perfian, 14. 
 
 Erzeromc defcrib'd, 8 . 
 
 Euphrates, 8, 58. 71. 
 
 Exchequer Perfian, 117. 
 
 Ezekiel the Trophet, his Sepul- 
 86. 
 
 F. 
 
 FEajl of Hozen and KufTein, 
 161. 
 
 St. Francis of Paolo'j Miracle, 
 113. 
 
 Franks in Alexander'.? Army, 14. 
 Seat themselves near Erivan, ib. 
 
 Funerals at Bagdat defcrib'd, 8 5, 
 86. Inconvenient to the poor, ib. 
 
 Funerals of the Perfians, 244. 
 
 G. 
 
 G Alleys of the Grand Signior ; 
 their demands when out at 
 Sea, 54. Their present condition, 
 122. 
 
 Gaming not allow d, a 36. 
 
 Gaures, their Religion and pre- 
 sent condition, 163. Their Origiual 
 and prophets, 164. Their Books, 
 165. Their Baptism, Marriages, 
 Feafts, Fafts and Funerals, 166. 
 Tloeir adoration of Fire, 167. Their 
 manners and cuftoms, ib. Beads 
 which they love or hate, 168. 
 
 Genealogy of the Perfian Kings, 
 
 19*. 
 
 Georgia, the prefent Hate of it, 
 113. 
 
 Gezire, 108. 
 
 Godfrey of BoIogneV Arms, 55. 
 Gorno Fortress, 68. 
 
 Government of Perfia, 2 1 9, 
 Grand Signior 's power over his 
 Bamas, 8. 
 
 Gregory, St. martyr d, 1 3 , 
 Gulph Perfian, 95. 
 Guni, 1 14. 
 
 H. 
 
 HAbit of the Perfians, 237. 
 Halicarcara, 10. 
 FiaJy not much reported to by the 
 Perfian 'Pilgrims, and why, 62. 
 St. Helena, 22. 
 
 Hizargerib the fairefi Garden of 
 Perfia, 157. 
 
 High-ways, how fecur'd in Per- 
 fia, 233. 
 
 Sir angers bound to hire Horfes 
 from Alexandretta to Aleppo, 55. 
 Horfes Arabian, 65. 
 
 I, 
 
 JAfer-Kan, the Story of him, 210* 
 Janizarv fir ikes out an Arme- 
 nian B if hop's eye, 10. 
 
 Jaf^ue, the Trince there of Re 
 bels, 
 
 Jealoufie of the Perfians, 239. 
 Iman-KouJi-Kan, the sJory of his 
 death, 204, &c. 
 Jonas Whale, 54. 
 Ifpahan fully defcrib'd, 148, \§c* 
 SU Jude, 86. 
 
 Justice of the Perfians, 232. 
 K, 
 
 KAfFa the Ci + y. 113. 
 Kaguifgan fort, 10. 
 Kalmouchs, what fort of people^ 
 1 27. 
 
 Kans ofPerfu. 14. Civil to Jlran~ 
 gers, ib. 2 2 5 
 
 Kan of Etivin, betrays the Town, 
 and teaches the Grand _ Signior to 
 drink, 14. The Kan of Kerman kind 
 to the Author, 4 1 . 
 
 Kan of Kan, his fad end, 30, 
 
 Kars de\critfd, 9. 
 
 Keckmifli, 49. Befieg'd by the 
 Hollander, ib. I i a Ker* 
 
The In d e x. 
 
 Kerman defer ib'd, 41. 
 Kilet, 8 a. 
 
 King of PerfiaV favours, 236. 
 Kora defcrib'd, 28. 
 
 L. 
 
 LAke of Antioch, 56. 
 Lance that piercd the fide of 
 Lhrtfl, 1 3 . 
 
 Languages md in Pcrfia, 229. 
 Lardefcrifrd, 153. 
 Latitudes of the chief eft Cities 
 of Pcrfia, 1 3 5. 
 Locufts, 65, 81. 
 
 Longitudes of the principal Ci- 
 ties oj Perfia, 135, &c. 
 
 M. 
 
 MAhomet-Ali-beg, £/6f of 
 him,^.i,^3c. He punifhes his 
 own Son, 44. 
 
 Mahomet-beg , his misfortune, 
 212. Revengeful, 2,12, &c. 
 
 Malta, the great Ceremony of the 
 grand Mufter upon Lady -day, 78. 
 Manners of Perfia. See Cuftoms, 
 Marante, 20. 
 
 Market-price , how fettled, 55, 
 a 34- 
 
 Marriages of the Perfians, 243. 
 
 Meal, the ft range nature of Per- 
 fian meal, 27. 
 
 Mengrelia, the prefent State of 
 it, 125. 
 
 Meflina defer ib'd, 2. 
 
 Milo Iflind, 120. 
 
 Mirza-Ibrahim, 23. 
 
 Mirza-Take, his ftory, 197. 
 
 Modon, 121. 
 
 Money of Perfia. See Coins. 
 Monuments Turkilh ,3,4, 24, 
 
 Mother kills her own Son injiead 
 of a Bannian, 202. 
 
 Moulla's, 226. 
 
 Mouflal defer ib'd, 71. 
 
 Murder committed in the TDefert, 
 1 1 2. Puniftjd in Perfia, 2 3 2. 
 
 N. 
 
 NAckfivan defcrib'd,i6. 
 Names and Employments of 
 the Officers of the King's Houfe,%n 9 
 ®c. Of the Military Officers, 223. 
 Naxis, 1 20. 
 Nazar; vid. Officers. 
 Nemrod, or the fuppofed Tower 
 of Babel, 86. 
 
 IS'ibia defcrib'd, 3. 
 Niniveh, 71. 
 
 Noah, where he liv'd, 16. His 
 Wife, where buried, 20. 
 
 Nogaies, their Cuftoms, 1 3 2, Sfc . 
 
 O. 
 
 OFfrers of the King's Houf- 
 hold^n. Military, 223. Ec- 
 cie fit ilJick and Judi cial, 226. 
 Ormus, 255. 
 Ozeman, 4. 
 
 P. 
 
 PAros Jfland, 1 2. 
 Paffage of the Author from 
 isiniveh to Babylon, 82. From Bag- 
 dat to Balfara, 87. From Balfara to 
 Ormus, 94. 
 
 Paffengers ; fee Travellers. 
 Patras, 121. 
 
 'Patriarch of the Armenians, ir. 
 Feafts the Caravan, 1 2. 
 
 Pearls of great beauty and va- 
 lue, 95, 144. 
 
 Perfia, its extent and Provinces, 
 1 41. The Flowers and Fruits there- 
 of 144. The Be alts of fervice, 145. 
 Fijh and Fowl there, ib. Buildings, 
 147. 
 
 Perfians, their Superftition, 24. 
 Their manner of Entertainment, 5. 
 Their Civility, 77. Their extrava- 
 gancy in Apparel, 238. Their Re- 
 ligion, 1 60. Their Feasls and Diet, 
 241. Artifls, wherein, 230. Com- 
 modities of the Countreys, ib. Their 
 manners and cuftoms, 234. 
 
 Philadelphia now Allachars, 31. 
 
 Places 
 
The Index. 
 
 263 
 
 Places of priviledg, 24. 
 
 'Plains of Salt, 31, 39. 
 
 Polia or Folis, 4. 
 
 'Policy of the PciHans, 232. 
 
 Pointing at the King of Pcrfia, 
 lofs of the hand, 207. 
 
 - Porter of the King of Pcrfia bt- 
 lovd by him for his whiskers, 47. 
 
 Printing not ns'd ; and why, 
 
 living 
 
 dar-Abalii; From Casbon to 
 
 ifpahan, and fo through Candahar 
 to the Frontiers of the Mogul, 2,57. 
 
 Robbery committed iipon the Au- 
 thor neer Tocat, 40. 
 
 Robbery ; how piniftjd, 2 3 3 . 
 Rock of a ft range nature; 107. 
 
 S. 
 
 SAdlcr Ralph; his fad ftory; 107. 
 Salmaftre; 208. 
 Samatra, a place of Devotion 
 among the Mahometans; 8 3. 
 
 Santorini, a remarkable IJland 
 
 79- 
 
 Sardis; 37. 
 
 Sava; 28. 
 
 Schiras; 66. jDefcrib'd; 247. 
 Seal of the King of Perfm, 1 79. 
 Sedre, his Office, 126. 
 Scri-Kouli-Kan Governor of Ba° 
 by Ion; his death, 84, 85. 
 Sem the Son 0/ Noah, 1 5. 
 Sexava, 28. 
 
 Sha-Abas, 158. Sends to Henry 
 Ajh of France, ib. To Spain, ib. His 
 anfwer, ib. He turns Merchant, ib. 
 Kind to the Capuchins; 157. His 
 fia/^Erivan; 10. From Erivan to\madnefs in drink; i-ji. He pmifhes 
 Tauris;i5. From Tauris to Ifpa- the Baker and Cook; 203. 
 
 Sha-Abas the fecond, 209. 
 Shambe; the Inhabitants mad at 
 18 years of age; 1 7. 
 
 Shappars, what; 2 3 3 . Their pri- 
 vi ledges, ib. 
 
 Sha-Seh" deftroys the Turks Ar- 
 my; 20. His madnefs in drink, 198, 
 His cruelty, 206. 
 
 Shaoux; what they are, 47. 
 Shera2oul, 73. 
 Sidi Fatima, 29. 
 Sinopus, 118. 
 
 Smyrna largely defcriPd; 32, 
 ®c. 
 
 Sophiana; 20. 
 *5V. Simon; 86. 
 St. Stephens; 17. 
 Story of four French-men; 95. 
 Students Perfian; 217. 
 Sultan Amurat makes his entry 
 into Aleppo; 6. 
 
 Sul- 
 
 229. 
 
 Proverb in Perfia about 
 baffy, 44. 
 
 Quitros Haven, 1 14. 
 R. 
 
 RAdars; what, 233. 
 Rafedf s ; what, 8 5. Severe- 
 ly chaftizdfor Super ft it iou, ib. 
 
 Re sJ or at ion jor robbery , how 
 made, 233. 
 
 River that peutrifies, 1 5. 
 Relicks Armenian, 17. 
 Roads from France to Conftan- 
 tinaple; a. From Conflantinople to 
 Ifpahan; 3. From the borders of Vcr- 
 
 han through Tauris and Casbin; 24. 
 From Tauris to Ifpahan through 
 Zangan and Sultain ; 26. From 
 Smyrna to Ifpahan; 32. From Ker- 
 man to Ifpahan; 41. From Paris to 
 Ifpahan another way; 53. From 
 Aleppo to Ifpahan through the 
 qreatDefert; 60. Through Mefopo 
 tamia and AfTyria; 66. From Nini- 
 veh to Ifpahan; 72. From Smyrna to 
 Ifpahan; 102. From Aleppo to Tau- 
 ris through Diarbcquir and Van,- 
 103. Through Gezire; 108. From 
 Aleppo to Ifpahan through the {mail 
 Defert and Kengavar; 109. From 
 . Conflantinople to Ifpahan by the 
 Euxin-Sea; 113. From Warfaw to 
 Ifpahan over the black Sea ; and 
 Ifpahan to Mofco; 115. From Or- 
 mus to Schiras; 145. From Ifpahan 
 to Ormus, from Schiras to Ban 
 
264 
 
 The Index. 
 
 Sultain defcritid; 27. 
 
 Super tfit ion of the Perfians; 136. 
 
 TAmerlane; 195. 
 Tartars eat raw Horfe-flejh; 
 7. Lefler Tartars; 131. 
 
 Tauris defcrib'd; 20; 21 j &c. And 
 the places adj. icent; 2 3 . 
 
 Temple of Ephefus. See Ephefus. 
 Teren; 108. 
 Thievery puni/tid, 
 Tigris; 71. 
 
 Time; how divided by the Per 
 fians; 240. 
 Tocai; 5. 
 Tocia; 4. 
 
 Twer of Babel; vid. Nemrod. 
 
 Travelling very ft cure in Per- 
 fia; 18; 253. 
 
 Travellers; how to behave them- 
 felves; 47. 
 
 7fo treachery of a Janizary; 3 yj 
 
 Turkey; travelling in Tur- 
 key; 1. 
 
 Turks; f£«> Sup erf} it ion; 9. 
 
 Turquoifes; 144. 
 
 V. 
 
 VAn; 106. 
 Voyage; The Authors Voyage 
 from Marfeilles 7o Alexandretra, 78. 
 The Authors frfl Voyage } 95. From 
 Paris ro Smyrna, 99. 
 
 W. 
 
 WA iter bitter, 61. Scarce in 
 Perfia, 156. 
 Women <,/Bagdar, 86. Of Arabia, 
 ib. Of Perfia, 239. 
 
 Wool oj Perfia very fine, 40. 
 Writing Pernan, 229. 
 
 Y 
 Z 
 
 &C. 
 
 Efde defcrifd, 44. 
 Yefdecas, 66. 
 
 Z. 
 
 Ea JJland, 1 20. 
 
 Zulpha defcrib'd; 19,155,157, 
 
THE SIX 
 
 TRAVEL 
 
 O F 
 
 John Baptista Tavernier, 
 
 BARON of AUBONNE, 
 
 THROUGH 
 . TO THE 
 
 INDIES. 
 
 During the fpace of Forty years. 
 
 Giving an Account of the prefent 
 
 State of thofe Countries, vi%. of their 
 Religion, Government, Customs, 
 and Commerce. 
 
 AS ALSO 
 
 The Figures, Weights, and Value of the Money 
 and Coins feverally currant therein. 
 
 The Second Part : 
 
 DESCRIBING 
 
 INDIA and the ISLES Adjacent. 
 
 Made Engtijb by J. P. 
 
 LONDON: 
 Printed in the Year, 1678. 
 
.not 
 
 H — — 
 
 l/Jir.;OL[bA- 2- 2; ; 
 
 u i ii o 3 a a 
 
 ? I Ofh bftji A " 
 
 1 
 
 1 1 U cx * 
 
 
 
 1 > ¥ A V, Vi. r A v *■ 
 
 f - 
 
 .8r*i e «biY 3*fo mi 
 
 j - ■ . . . 
 
 T 
 
 
Part II. 
 
 THE 
 
 FIGURES 
 
 Of the PIECES of 
 
 Gold, Silver, and Copper: 
 
 AND OF 
 
 The Sorts of Shells and Almonds that pafs 
 for MONEY over all ASIA. 
 
 "The Money of Arabia. 
 
 Larin, Figure i. 
 
 Half-Larin, Fig. 2. 
 
 HIS Money (Fig.i.) is call'd 
 Larin ,- and fignifies the fame 
 with our Crowns. The Five 
 Pieces are as much in value 
 as ?ne of our Crowns ; and 
 the Ten Half-Larins as much. 
 Only the Five Larins want in 
 weight Eight - Sous of our 
 Crown. This is that which the 
 Emirs s or Princes of Arabia 
 take for the Coining of their 
 Money : and the profit which 
 
 The Author not ha- 
 ving given an account of 
 the weight or finenefs 
 of the Coins he treats 
 of, bur having only ex- 
 prefs'd their value in 
 French Livres, it is 
 thought fit for the bet- 
 ter reduction thereof 
 into Engt.Jh Conoco ad- 
 vertife , That Three 
 French Livres make a 
 French Crown , which 
 pafTes in Exchange 
 from J4 pence to j8 
 they make by the Merchants pence half-penny j fo 
 that travel through the Defart, d ia 1 a Fre " cb Livre may 
 either into ft* or the ft*„ ; ^%^ m E % 
 For then the Emirs come to the p ence to 1 9 pence half- 
 Caravans, to take their Tolls, and to change their Crowns, Reals, or penny. And twenty Sous 
 Ducats of Gold, for thefe Larins. For they muft of neceffity pafs make a Livre. 
 that way. And they muft ufe very fmooth words to boot ; for there is nothing 
 to be got by rough Languages. If they fee the Merchants will not change their 
 Money, then will they refufe to take their Toll 3 but making as if they had 
 not time to caft up the accompt, they go a hunting, and leave the Merchants 
 fifteen or twenty days without laying any thing more to themj while they 
 in the mean time Ipend their provisions , not knowing where to get more. 
 If the Caravan goes on without paying their Tolls, thefe Arabian Prinqes will 
 either cut them in pieces, or take away their Camels, or rob them of all 
 they have, as they have feveral times done. In one Journey that I made, 
 one of thefe Frinces kept us one and twenty days ; after which we thought our 
 felves happy to be quit of him, when we had given him whatever he demanded. 
 If thefe five Larins did but weigh as much as the Crown, or Real of Spain, 
 the Merchants would never be much troubled. But when they come to Perjia, 
 or the Indies, they muft carry their Money to the Mint, as I have laid in 
 another place , and -lopfe above eight Sous in a Crown , which amounts to 
 14 per Cent. As for what remains, the Larins are one of the ancient Coins 
 r * B of 
 
 \ 
 
f , — _ - — . — — — ■ ■ 
 
 2 An account of the Money of Asia. Part II. 
 
 of Afia ; and though at this day they are only currant in Arabia, and at Bal- 
 fara, neverthelefs, from Bragdatt to the Ifland of Ceylan, they traffick altogether 
 with the Larin, and all along the Perjian Golf ; where they take 80 Larins for 
 one Toman, which is co Abaci's* 
 
 'The Monty currant under the ^Dominions of the Great Mogul. 
 
 AL L the Gold and Silver which is brought into the Territories of the 
 Great Mogul, is refined to the higheft perfection before it be coined into 
 Money. 
 
 The Roupy of Gold weighs 2 Drams and a half, and ir Grains, and is va- 
 lued in the Country at 14 Roupies of Silver. We reckon the Roupy of Sil- 
 ver at 30 Sous. So that a Roupy of Gold comes to 21 Livres of France ; 
 and an Ounce of Gold to y8 Livres, and 4 Deneer's. This Gold is like that 
 which we buy at $4 Livres an Ounce. And if you bring this Gold in Ingots, 
 or Ducats of European Gold, you fhall have always 7 and a half profit j If 
 you can Icape paying any thing to the Cuftom-houfes. The Half-Roupy comes 
 to 10 Livres 10 Sous ; and the Quarter-Roupy to j Livres j Sous. As I 
 have laid, you muft reckon the Silver Roupy at 30 Sous, though it weigh 
 not above 3 Drams.} whereas our pieces of 30 Sous weigh. 3 Drams, and half 
 4 grains j but the Roupy is much the better Silver. In a word, they that 
 underftand Traffick well, and carry hence Gold or Silver to the Territories 
 of the Great Mogul, get always 7 or 8 per Cent, profit, provided they take 
 care to fhun the Cuftom-houles. For if you pay them the 7 or 8 per Gent.*. 
 which you might make profit, goes to them ; and fo the Roupy comes to 
 30 Sous, the Half to ic, and the Quarter to 7 and a half, the Eighth part 
 to 3 Sous and 9 Deneers. 
 
 As for their Copper Money, fometimes 'tis worth more, fometimes left, as 
 Copper comes to the Mint. But generally the biggeft fort is worth 2 Sous 
 of our Money, the next 1 Sous, the next to that 6 Deneers. 
 
 As for their Shell Money, the nearer you go to the Sea, the more you 
 give for a Pecha ; for they bring them from Maldives. Fifty or 60 of thele 
 make a Pecha, which- is that piece of Coin that is worth but 6 De- 
 neer's. 
 
 For their Money of Mamoudi's, half Mamoudi's, and Almonds, all that fort 
 of Money is only currant in the Province of Gu^eratt, the principal Cities 
 whereof are Surat, Barocba, Cambaya, Broudra, and Amadabat. Five Mamoudi's 
 go for a Crown, or a Real. For fmall Money they make no ufe of thefe Shells, 
 but of little Almonds, which are brought from about Ormus , and grow in 
 the Defarts of the Kingdom of Larr. If you break one of the Shells, it is 
 impofiible to eat the Almond, for there is no- Colocjuintida fo bitter j fo that 
 there is no -fear leaft the Children mould eat their fmall Money. They have 
 alfo thole little pieces of Coppec which are call'd Pecha, 6 Deneer's in value. 
 They give 20 for a Mamoudi, and 40 Almonds for a Pecha j fometimes you 
 may have 44, according to the quantity which is brought. For lome years 
 the Trees do not bear, and then the price of this fort of Money is very 
 much railed in that Country 3 and the Bankers know how to make their be- 
 nefit. 
 
 Fig. 1. The Roupy of Gold. Fig. 2. The Half-Roupy of Gold. Fig. 3. The 
 Quartei^Roupy of Gold. 
 
 Fig. 4, The Roupy of Silver. Fig. y. Another Roupy of Silver. Fig. 6. The 
 Half-Roupy of Silver. Fig. 7. The Quarter-Roupy of Silver. Fig. 8. The 
 Eighth part of the Roupy of Silver. 
 
 Fig. 9. Four Pecha's of Copper. Fig.io, Two Pecha's of Copper. Fig.11. One 
 Pecha. 
 
 Fig. 12, 
 
Part II An account of the Money of Asia. 
 
 Fig. 12. The Shells. Fig. it,. A Silver-Mamoudi, which is the Money of 
 Guz^erat. Fig. 14. Half a Mamoudi. Fig. iy. The Almond. 
 
 I have mark'd two forts of Roupies, the one fquare, the other round. The 
 fquare one is as they coin'd it anciently 5 the round ones are as they make 
 them at this day. 
 
 The Money of a King and two RajaV, all three Tributaries to 
 
 the Great Mogul. 
 
 MAton-cha is a Tributary to the Great Mogul ; yet he has power to coin Mo- 
 ney. When you are at Agra, the Territories of this King lye to the North ; 
 and before you can come at them,you muft pais over very high and cragged Moun- 
 tains. Tis a good Country, where are all things necelTary for the fupport of humane 
 life, except Rice, which is a great inconvenience to the Inhabitants, who being all 
 Idolaters, are depriv'd thereby of their chiefeft delicacies, in regard they feed upon 
 nothing fo heartily as upon Rice. Thev have excellent Corn, and Grapes, but they 
 make no Wine, though they make fome Aqua Fit a. They want neither Oxen nor 
 Cows j but their Horfes are little, weak, and ill-fhap'd. All the Trade which 
 thefe people have with their Neighbours, is in Copper, whereof they have 
 two extraordinary Mines, from whence they furnifh the greateft part of the 
 Mogul's Territories ; out of which they have Salt in Exchange, not having 
 any of their own. This Salt cofts them dear, in regard it is four months tra- 
 vel to the place where they fetch it, that is to lay, from the Territories of 
 Matun-cba to the Indian Coaft towards Bacaim. They travel upon Oxen, and 
 the fame Oxen carry their Copper. There muft be alfo fome Mines of Lapts- 
 Lazuli and Garnets in that Country, in regard they bring feveral from thence. 1 
 
 Fig. i, and 2. is the Money of Maton-cha. 
 
 Fig. t. is the Silver-Monev, which weighs not above one dram and 19 grains, 
 and is of the fame goodneisas the Roupy. The half-Roupy goes for ij Sous, 
 and this for 16 Sous,uvhich is fix and a half per Cent. more. But certain it is,that the 
 more Northward you travel that way, Gold and Silver is more fcarce. Fig. 2. 
 Thefe pieces of Copper go for the value of a Pecha of the Great Mogul j they 
 are heavier by half, but the Copper is not fo good as that of Pegu or japan. 
 
 Fig. 3, and 4. is the Money of the Raja of Part a fajoumola. 
 
 The Raja of Parta fajoumola, is one of the great Raja's on the other fide of the 
 Ganges. His Territories are dire&ly North of Patna, nigh to the great Mogul's, 
 to whom he is Tributary, and bordering upon the King of Bantam. He is bound 
 every year to lend an EmbalTador with twenty Elephants to the Gover- 
 nour of Patna, who fends them to the Great Mogul. The greateft part of 
 his revenue confifts in Elephants, Musk, and Rhubarb. He lays * alfo a great 
 Impofition upon Salt, as well that which is fpent by his own Subje&s, as 
 upon that which is carried abroad. This is all Sea-coaft Salt, which comes 
 from the Territories of the Great Mogul, and is brought from the Sea-coaft 
 to Ganges, and lb over Ganges is carried as far as the fiftieth and five and 
 fiftieth Degree. They lade above 15-0000 Oxen; and for every burthen they 
 pay a Roupy at the Salt-Pits, and no more afterwards through the whole King- 
 dom. Had this Raja of Parta Salt of his own, he would never be Tributary 
 to the Great Mogul. 
 
 Fig. <$ 3 and 6. is the Money of the Raja of Ogen. 
 
 The Raja of Ogen is alfo a Tributary to the Great Mogul ; his Country lies 
 between Brxmpom, Seronge, and Amadabat ; and it is one of the belt Soils in 
 
 * B 2 Fig.$. 
 
4 An account of the Money of Asia. Part II 
 
 the Indies. Bis Silver Money pafles no-where but in his own Country, not be- 
 ing fulFer'd in the Mogul's. His Silver Money goes for a quarter of a Roupy, 
 at 7 Sous 6 Deneer's j but the Silver is bale. His Copper Money goes for 
 6 Deneers, and is currant in the Mogul's Dominions as far as Agra. For his 
 fmaller Money he makes ufe of thole Shells whereof we have already fpo- 
 ken. 
 
 'Pieces of Gold called Tagods, which are currant in the Territories 
 of the King of Golconda, the King of Vifapour , the Great Raja 
 of Carnatica, the Raja of Vclouche, and at the "Diamond Mines. 
 
 AL L the Pieces of Gold reprefented in the Plate of Golconda-Money, pals 
 through all thefe Countries at the fame value,, and are about the weight of 
 our half Piftol ; but the Gold is of a baler Mettal, fo that an Ounce is not worth 
 above 42 or 43 Livres ; not going for more than four Roupies. 
 
 Fig.i. Is one of the ancient Pagods, at the time when the Raja's were 
 Mafters of the Kingdom of Golconda, and they are only lfampt upon one fide 
 as you fee. They are as heavy as the new ones ; and though they be no 
 better Gold, yet fome years fince they went at 20, and 2j per cent, more 
 than the new ones; the reafon is, for that the Bankers being all Idolaters,, 
 they are fo fuperftitious as to believe, that if they melt down that Money, 
 fome calamity will befall their Country ; and they hold this for fuch a cer- 
 tain truth, that for fear the King of Golconda fhould melt it, they paid him 
 for certain years 20000 Pagods. But you mult oblerve, that thele old Pagods 
 are no-where currant but in the Kingdom of Golconda. For my parr, I think it is 
 more for their profit than out of any fuperftition, that they make ule of them in 
 that manner. For in all the Kingdom of Golconda, in matter of trade, they never 
 mention any but the old Pagods, though they make their payments in new Pagods, 
 or Roupies ; and in this cafe they who receive thole new Pagods,or thole Roupies, 
 play their game fo well , that they gain a fourth part, or a half, and (bmetimes one 
 per Cent, alledging for the reafon, that thole new Pagods are either the King of 
 yifapour's, cr the Raja of Carnatica's, or the Raja of Ft touches, or the Englijh, 
 or the Hollanders. And they make as much of the Roupies ; for there is no 
 confiderable payment made, which is not received by the Cheraff or Banker, 
 making it good-to the Seller, who fometimes has no need of his Money in 
 a month or two, and fo he receives the intereft of it, though it be but for 
 two days. If the payment be made in old Pagods, and that the fum amount 
 to two or three hundred, or three or four thoufand, the Banker ta«kes them 
 all, and viewing them one after another, he divides them into five or fix 
 parts ; and then poifing them all, he lays of fome, that they are more us'd 
 than others, and that having palled through many hands, there is a walte of the 
 metral about one per Cent. Others, lays he, want not above half one per 
 Cent, others but a fourth part. Thele Pagods have been bor'd Ibrne half tho- 
 rough, others a quarter thorough $ and it is a wonderful thing what this boring 
 amounts to. For in regard thele Pagods are very thick, and cannot be dipt, 
 thofe that are Mafters of the trade, take a Piercer, and pierce the Pagod tho- 
 rough the lide, half way or more, taking out of one piece as much Gold as 
 comes to two or three Sous. And provided they be not taken in the fact, 
 they chufe rather to follow this trade than any other ; there being no handy- 
 craft tradesmen among the Indians, that gain more than three Sous a day. 
 After they have drawn out the piercer, they knock upon the holes with a 
 little hammer, and are lb cunning in clofing up the holes again, that he muft 
 be very skilful indeed, that can difcover the cheat. For this realbn, they ne- 
 ver receive any payment till they have Ihew'n the Pieces to the Cheraff or 
 Banker ; and though he looks only on two or three Pieces, he takes a Sous. 
 They have alfo another cunning trick, and the more the Banker is in credit, 
 
> 
 
Part II. An account of the Money of A$i a. 
 
 the more he gains ; for if he makes any payment, according to the quantity 
 of the fum, he puts the Pagods by fifty or a hundred together in little bags, 
 and feals them up with his Seal, and writes upon the bag the number of the 
 Pagods within ; and fo delivers them to him to whom he makes the pay- 
 ment. When the party makes ule of them, he never opens the bag, but gives 
 them as they are, to him to whom they are due ; who goes to the fame Ban- 
 ker that leal'd the bags. The Banker feeing his Seal whole, makes anfwer, 
 that the Pieces are good, and in that manner they lhall pate all the year 
 without opening the bags. But when ever they change the hand., they lend 
 for the fame Banker, who always will have fo much per Cent, for his vifit. 
 But as I have laid , the Merchant leaves them in his hand to get intereft j 
 who then pays eight per Cent, for a year, and fometimes twelve. Thus the 
 Bankers have always the greateft part of the Money in the Kingdom in their 
 hands, of which they make large profit. Tis the cuftom in that Country, 
 every Month to pay the Soldiery ; but for the moft part, the Soldiers, Cap- 
 tains, and other Officers will not ftay ftill the Month be up, but come to the 
 Bankers, who difcount after the rate of eighteen or twenty per Cent, by the 
 year, befides that they pay them in thele Pagods, againlt which others would 
 often object. If there be any large Diamond to be fold in any Country, thele 
 Bankers have intelligence of it prelently } or if there be any fair Ruby, 'tis 
 not long before they have it in pawn ; for every year, when the Merchants 
 return from Pegu, and have any Rubies, moft commonly they are in debt j 
 and in regard it is the cuftom to pay within fifteen days after the Merchant 
 comes afhoar, he pawns his belt goods he has for payment, as well of the 
 freight of the Ship, as of what he may have taken up at Pirn. After that 
 he lells the worft of his goods to pay the Banker, who lent him the Money 
 upon his arrival. Thofe that work in the Diamond Mines, or the Merchants 
 that hire the Mine, when they have any fair Stones, they fell them to thele 
 Bankers, becaufe there is ready Money ; or elle they pawn them to the Ban- 
 kers, till they can find a Chapman to buy them. 
 
 Fig. i. The old Pagod. 
 
 Fig. 2. The King of Golconda's Pagod. 
 
 Fig. 3, and 4. The King of Vifapour's Pagod. 
 
 Fig. 5, and 6. The Raja of Carnatica's Pagod. 
 
 Fig. 7, and 8. The Raja of Velouche's Pagod. 
 
 Fig. 9, 10,11, and 12. are the Half-Pagods of thofe Kings and Raja's. 
 
 Fig. 13, 14, 15", 16, and 17. are little Pieces of Gold calPd Fanos, which are 
 of ditFerent value. There are fome whereof fix go to a Crown ; others from 
 ten to fifteen ; and fome are very bafe mettal. This is the Money that paffes 
 all along the Coaft of Coromandel; from Cape Comorin as far as Bengala. And 
 they have very little other than that, befides the Pecha of Copper, and the 
 Shells, which pafs for fmall Money. 
 
 The Monty which the Englifli and Hollanders Coin in the Indies. 
 
 Figure 1, and 2. is the Money which the EngUJh coin in their Fort St. George, 
 or elfe at Madrefpatan, upon the Coaft of Coromandel. They call them 
 Pagods,, as thofe of the Kings and Raja's of the Country are call'd. They 
 are of the fame weight, the fame goodnels, and pals for the fame value. For- 
 merly the EngUJh never coin'd any Silver or Copper Money ; for in fome 
 parts that border upon the Indians, where they have Factories, as at Surat, 
 Majlipatan, or at Bantam, they find it more profitable to carry Gold from 
 England, than Silver ; Gold lying in lefs room , and not being fo trou- 
 blefome ; befides, that by carrying Gold they more eafily efcape the 
 paying thofe Cuftorns which the Kings impofe upon Gold and Silver. But 
 
 JB j fince 
 
6 An account of the Moncj of Asia. Part II. 
 
 fince the prefent King of England married the Princefs of Portugal, who had 
 in part of her Portion the famous Port of Bombeye, where the Englijh are 
 very hard at work to build a ftrong Fort, they coin both Silver, Copper, 
 v and Tinn. But that Money will not go at Sttrat, nor in any part of the Great 
 Mogul's Dominions, or in any of the Territories of the Indian Kings ; only it 
 pafles among the Englijh in their Fort, and fome two or three Leagues up 
 in the Country, and in the Villages along the Coaft ; the Country people that 
 bring them their Wares, being glad to take that Money ; otherwifc they would 
 fee but very little ftirring, in regard the Country is very poor, and the people 
 have nothing to fell but Aqua vita, made of Coco-Wine and Rice. 
 
 Fig. 3. and 4. is the Gold Money which the Hollanders coin at Palicate 
 which is a Fort that they poffefs upon the Coait of Coromandel. Thofe pieces 
 are alfo call'd Pagods, and are of the fame weight with the others ; but for 
 the goodnefs, I think they are better by two or three in the hundred, than 
 thofe of the Kings and Raja's of the Country, or which the Englijh make. 
 I made this obfervation, being at the Diamond- Mines, and in other parts of 
 the Indies where there is any great Trade, For the firft thing they ask you 
 is, whether you have any Pagods of Pelicate ; and if you havej you fpeed much 
 better in your bufinefs. 
 
 Fig. and 6. is a Roupy of Silver, which the Hollanders coin at Pelkate, 
 being of the fame weight with thofe which the Great Mogul, or the Kings cf 
 Colconda and Vijapour make. It has in the middle upon one fide the mark of the 
 Holland Company, to diftinguifh it from others. The Hollanders Roupies of Silver 
 are quite contrary to their Pagods of Gold, which are more efteemed by the In- 
 dians than thofe of the Princes of the Country. For they make fa/ lefs account 
 of thefe Roupies of Silver ; and if you pay any great fum in thefe pieces, 
 though the Silver be as good as the others, you mult lofe one half per Cent. 
 
 Fig. 7, and . is the Hollanders fmall Copper-Monev, wherewith thev or- 
 dinarily pay -their Soldiers. It has upon one fide the mark of the Company. 
 And indeed the Hollanders, who mind nothing but their profit, had great reafon 
 to obtain leave to coin Money; for bringing only Gold from fapan, from Ma- 
 cajfar only Gold in Powder, and from China Gold in Ingots, and felling all 
 thefe to the Bankers, they found that they loft five or fix per Cent, which 
 proceeded from the miftruft of the Changers, and the chief of the Faclo- 
 ries belonging to the Company. Now they fhun that lofs, and make the fame 
 profit which the Bankers did, coining all thefe mettals into money. Though 
 in every Voyage which thev make to fapan, they generally lofe one VeOel 
 by ftorm ; yet fome years they make five or fix Millions of Livres profit, 
 all freights difcharged , and hazards efcaped. But that profit is quite loft, 
 fmce their lofs of the Ifland of Formofa. 
 
 The Money of the King of Cheda and Pera. 
 
 THis Money is of Tin, and is coin'd by the King of Cheda and Pera. He 
 coins no other Money than Tin. Some years he found out feveral Mines, 
 which was a great prejudice to the Engljh. For the Hollanders and other 
 Merchants buy it, and vend it over all Afia. Formerly the Englijh brought 
 it out of England, and furnifhed great part of Afia, where they confum'd a 
 vaft quantity ; they carried it alfo into all the Territories of the Great Mogul, 
 as alfo into Perfia and Arabia ; for all their Difhes are of Copper, which they 
 caufe to be Tinned over every month. Among the meaner fort of people, there 
 is little to be feen but this Tin-money, and the Shels call'd Cori which I 
 have fpoken of already. 
 
 Fig. 1, and 2. is that great piece of Tin, which weighs an ounce and a half, 
 and in that Country goes for the value of two of our Sous. But in regard 
 that Tin is there at 14 Sous a pound, it is not worth above one Sous and 
 
 threit 
 
f 
 
Part IF. An account of the Money of Asia, 
 
 1 
 
 three Deneers. This piece of Tin is only thick in the fides, the middle be- 
 ing as thin as Paper. 
 
 Fig. 3, and 4. is a piece that goes at the value of four Deneers. 
 
 Fig. y, and 6. are their Shells, whereof they give fifty for the little piece 
 of Tin. 
 
 The Money of Gold and Tin of the King of Achen. With the Money 
 in Gold Coind by the King of Macaflar, and the Celebes. And 
 the Silver and Coff er Money of the King of Camboya. 
 
 Fig. i, and 2. is the Money in Gold coind by the King of Achen, in the 
 Hand of Sumatra. In goodnefe it is better than our Louis j an Ounce be- 
 ing well worth fifty Franks. This piece weighs 10 Grains, and would be 
 worth fixteen Sous and eight Deneers of our Money. 
 
 Fig. 3, and 4. is the fmall Money made by the fame King, being of Tin, 
 and weighs eight Grains. The Tin being good, I value it at 16 Sous a pound j 
 and then 7y of thefe pieces is worth one Sous of ours. 
 
 Fig. and 6. is the Money in Gold of the King of Macajfar, or the Ce- 
 lebes. This piece weighs twelve Grains, and the Hollanders take it for a Florin 
 of our Money; which comes to 23 Sous and eight Deneers. 
 
 Fig. 7, and 8. is the Silver Money of the King of Camboya. ; being goodt 
 Silver, and weighs thirty two Grains. The piece comes to 24 Sous of our 
 Money ; nor does the King coin it at any higher rate. He has a great quan- 
 tity of Gold in his Country, but he never coins it into Money; for he trades, 
 with it by weight, as he does with his Silver, according to the cuftom of 
 China. 
 
 Fig. 9, and 10. is the Copper Money of the King of Camboya. The King of 
 fava, the King of Bantam, and the Kings of the Molucca Iflands coin no other 
 Money, but pieces of Copper after the fame form and manner. As for their 
 Silver Money, they let it pafs as , it comes out of other Countries, without 
 melting it down. In Bantam, in all Java, in Batavia, and the Molucca's, there 
 is little other Money ftirring, but Spanijh Reals, Rixdollars of Germany, and 
 Crowns of France ; the greateft part being Half-Reals, Quarters, and Eighth 
 parts. But in Batavia they ufe befides for fmall Money, Shillings, double Sous' 
 and Sous, as in Holland. 
 
 The Money in Gold, Silver \ and Coff er \ of the King of Siam. 
 
 Fig. 1, and 2. is the Money in Gold, coin'd by the King of Siam ; and weighs 
 18 Grains more than our Half-Piftol. The Gold is of the lame Goodnels, 
 and may be Worth 7 Livres and one Sous of our Money. When the Mer- 
 chants, that trade in that Country, bring thence either Gold or Silver, 'tis for 
 want of other Commodities, as Silk, Musk, Sandal, Wood Gum Lake, Ele- 
 phants teeth, and other things. For by carrying out Gold or Silver, they reap but 
 two in the hundred profit. 
 
 Fig. 3,4, 5, and 6. is a piece about the bignefs of a large Hazle-Nut, flatted 
 on the four fides, like a femicircle, three fides whereof are open like a Horfe- 
 (hoe ; and upon two fides are certain of their own Letters. There is no Money 
 in the Eaft fo ftrangely coin d as this. It weighs three Drams and a half, and 
 2y Grains, and is as good as our Silver at three Livres and 10 Sous the 
 Ounce. It amounts to 32 Sous and 4 Deneers of our Money. 
 
 Fig. 6, 7, and 8. is the Copper Money of the King of Siam ; and they give 
 two hundred of thefe pieces for one piece of Silver. For their final! Money, 
 
 they 
 
8 An account of the Money of Asia. Part II. 
 
 they make ufe of certain Shells that are gather'd upon the Sea-fhore, which 
 they bring from Maldives. 
 
 The Gold and Silver Money of the Kings of Afem, Tipoura, 
 
 Arakan, and Pegu. 
 
 ALL the Silver Money coin'd by the Kings whom I have nam'd, is in 
 goodnefs equal to our Crown^ rating it at three Livres ten Sous the Ounce, 
 as we rate our Crowns here. 
 
 Fig. i, and 2. is the Silver Money of the King of Afem j it weighs three 
 Drams and four Grains, and comes to 23 Sous of our Money. 
 
 Fig. 3, 4. is the Silver Money made by the King of Tipoura Chatermanil 
 In the language of the Country, he is call'd Dieu-Ara-gari, which is ftampc 
 upon one fide of the Money, and upon the other Chatermani Roy de T/pctir/t. 
 His Country begins about twelve days journey from Baca toward the North- 
 Weft. This Money weighs two Drams and a half, and twenty-two Grains; 
 and is in value twenty-two Sous. 
 
 Fig. j, 6. is the King of Arakan s Money. It weighs two Drams and a half, 
 and if Grains, which makes 21 Sous of our Money. This King coins no Gold j 
 but he trafficks in Gold uncoin'd. The Mettal is very bafe, and not worth 
 above 14 Carats, a Carat being the third part of an Ounce. The King how- 
 ever holds it at a high rate, to keep it from being carry 'd out of his Coun- 
 try. In all Bengala this King is known by no other Name but the King of 
 Mogue. 
 
 Fig. 7, and 8. is the King of Pegx's Silver Money, and weighs two Drams 
 and a half, and twelve Grains, which may come to about 20 Sous, and fix 
 Deneers of our Money. 
 
 Fig. 9, and 10. are the King of Pegu's Fano's, or little pieces of Gold, and 
 weigh not above 7 Grains to boot. Fifteen of thefe little pieces pafs for the 
 value of a Real, or one of our Crowns, the Gold being courfe. 
 
 Fig. 11, 12. are the Kings of A/jn/s Fano's ; they weigh alfb 7 Grains ; 
 but they are a much bafer Mettal than thole of Pegu, for twenty-two of them 
 amount but to the value of our Crown. 
 
 Lumgs or 'Pieces of Gold and Silver which go for Money in the 
 Kingdom of China, and the Kingdom of Tunquin. 
 
 YO W are firft to take notice, that in all the Kingdom of China, and the 
 Kingdom of Tmcfuin, there is no Money coin'd, either Gold or Silver j 
 that their fmall Money is Copper, and that they make ufe in payments only 
 of Lumps or Pieces of Gold and Silver, which have every one their particu- 
 lar weight, as is here reprefented. 
 
 The Pieces of Gold mark'd Fig. 1, and 2. are by the Hollanders call'd Golt- 
 fchut y that is to fay, a Boat of Gold, becaufe they are in the form of a Boat. 
 Other Nations call them Loaves of Gold ; and there are but two different fizes 
 of them. The Gold is of fuch a goodnefs, that an Ounce in France would 
 not be worth lefs than 42 Franks. The great Pieces come to twelve hun- 
 dred Gelders of Holland Money, and thirteen hundred and fifty Livres of our 
 Money. The other Piece, which weighs but half as much, is in value accor- 
 ding to its proportion. 
 
 As for their Pieces of Silver, they are of feveral fizes, and different weight, 
 $• weighs fix Drams and a half, and 23 Grains j and the Silver being 
 
 very 
 
F&gt ■ 8. 
 
 _Mom V of tJU King tf U+errv Travdb in Uita. 
 
 n. ■* W a- jt+ 
 
 S3 UK 
 
<w5 
 
 ■CM 
 
Part II An account of the Money of Asia. 
 
 very near in goodnefs to the Parifian, it comes to fifty-nine Sous, and eight 
 Deneers of our Money. The other Pieces, as well great as fmall, are in value 
 according to their weight. 
 
 In <*reat payments they make ufe of Ingots, that come to a hundred Franks 
 in value ; and they have little Pieces of Silver that are not worth above a 
 Sous. 
 
 When they buy any Commodity, if they have not whole Pieces enough to 
 make up the fum, they have always" inftruments ready, to cut off lb much 
 from a great piece as will perfect the payment. 
 
 When the Cbinefes tranfport their Golden Loaves, or their Boats, into other 
 Countries, the Merchants cut thern in the middle, not daring to truft the Chi- 
 ne fes, who have often deceiv'd them ; and none have been more cheated than 
 the Hollanders. For they have a way to ftuff their Loaves of Gold, infomuch 
 that you fhall fometimes find in the middle, a third part of Copper or Silver. 
 In all forts of Bargains the Chinejes are fo cunning, that there are few ftran- 
 gers whom they do not over-reach $ especially, in Batavia, the Hollanders 
 when they come firft. They carry their weights always along with them, 
 being like a Roman Beam, or a Stelleer, about eight Inches long, with which 
 they weigh all the Gold and Silver which they receive. As for the fmall Money 
 both in China and Tunquum, it is of Copper. It is made as in tig 4. They 
 alfo thread thefe pieces, there being a hole in the middle, 12,25-, jo, and 
 300 upon a fixing ; becaufe they will not put themfelves to the trouble of 
 telling them, when the number exceeds a dozen. 
 
 The Gold and Silver Money of Japon. 
 
 ALL the Gold that comes from fapon, is of the lame goodnefs fome- 
 what better than our Louis 5 and is about that goodneft for which we 
 pay about jo Franks the Ounce. 
 
 Fig. 1. This piece of Gold weighs one Ounce and fix Drams, at fifty Franks 
 the Ounce, comes to 87 Livres and io Sous. 
 
 Fit. 2, and 3. Every one of thefe pieces is of Gold, and every one weighs 
 a third part of the great one 5 which is half an Ounce, and 48 Grains 5 and. 
 comes to 29 Livres, 3 Sous, and 4 Deneers. 
 
 Fig. 4. This, as it is mark'd, is the backfide of the three pieces of Gold. 
 Fig. j, and 6. are pieces of Silver of the fame weight j every one weigh- 
 ing 4 Grains lefs than our pieces of 30 Sous, though it go neverthelels for 
 the lame value. As for the Silver, it is the fame in goodnefs with our Mo- 
 ney. However, in the Territories of the Great Mogul, whither the Hollan- 
 ders carry all their Silver, their Bars, and fapon pieces, to coin them into Mo- 
 ney, fometimes they fell them to the Bankers, where they have no conve- 
 venience of coinage, as at Sttrat and Jlgra , and thefe Bankers give them from' 
 two to three in the hundred more than they will give for our Crowns_, Rix- 
 dollars, or Spanijh Reals. 
 Fig. 7. is the backfide of the two Silver pieces. 
 
 The TortraiBure of the Silver Ingots of Japon, which go for Money. 
 
 I Said before, that all the Silver that comes out of fapon, is equal in goodnefs to 
 our Crowns. 
 
 Fig. 1 . An Ingot of this form weighs feven ounces, at three Livres ten Sous 
 the ounce : the whole comes to twenty four Livres, and ten Sous. 
 
 { G Fig. sr. 
 
io An account of the Money of Asia. Part II. 
 
 Fig. 2. Weighs two ounces, three drams and an half : the whole comes to eight 
 Livres, ten Sous, and feven Deneers. 
 
 Fig. 3. Weighs once ounce, half a dram, and twelve grains : the whole comes 
 to four Livres, five Sous, and five Deneers. 
 
 Fig. 4. Weighs one ounce, eight grains : the whole comes to three Livres^ ten 
 Sous, and an eleven Deneers. 
 
 Fig, y . Weighs feven drams, one quarter, and feven grains : the whole comes 
 to three Livres, eight Sous, and eight Deneers. 
 
 Fig. 6. Weighs two drams and an half, and twenty four grains : the whole 
 comes to one Livre, five Sous, and one Deneer. 
 
 Fig. 7. Weighs two drams, twenty four Deneers : the whole comes to one 
 Livre, nine Deneers. 
 
 Fig. 8. Weighs one dram and an half, and twenty four grains : the whole comes 
 to fixteen Sous, and four Deneers. 
 
 Fig. 9. Is the Copper-Money which they thread by fifteen, thirty, fifty, 
 to the number of 600. which is the value of a Tell in Silver. Over aH fapon they 
 reckon by Tells : and the Hollanders reckon, that a Tell makes three G elders 
 and an half of their Money, which comes to four Livres, and five Sous of 
 ours. 
 
 Fig. 10. Is the back-fide of the Copper-piece. 
 
 Money that represents the Figures of the twelve Signs ; and which 
 were Coined during the twenty four hours, that Gehan-guir, King of 
 the Indians, permitted Queen INourmahall, his Wife, to Reign in his 
 Jiead. 
 
 SVltan Selim, otherwife called Gehanguir Patcha, the ninth King of the Indi- 
 ans, Father of Cha-gehan, was a great Lover of Women : but he had a par- 
 ticular affection for one among the reft, which he kept in his Seraglio ; and which, 
 he had Efpous'd, as meriting more than ordinary. She was a Woman of a Sublime 
 Wit, and very liberal j and fbe knew fo well bow to pleafe the King's humour, and 
 to divertize him, that he could not live without her. She had two Names ; the 
 one was Nour-gehan-begum, which fignifies the light of the World $ and this was 
 the Name which was engraven upon her Signet : for as I have obferv'd in my 
 Relations, they never Sign any thing, but only fet their Seals. The other Name, 
 by which (he was call'd at Court, was Nonr-mahall, which fignifies the Light of 
 the Seraglio. She was always a great enemy to the King's two Sons } more efpe- 
 cially to the fecond , who was called Sultan Kou. om : and who afterwards 
 coming to the Throne, called himfelf Cha-gehan. He fet himfelf to oppofe all the 
 defigns of this Princefs : who, for her part, had fuch an Afcendant over the King, 
 that fhe perfwaded him to fpend the greateft part of the year in the Country, un- 
 der-hand foliciting certain Raja's upon the Frontiers to rife againft him, that fhe 
 might engage him in the Wars, and keep him from the company of his Sons. This 
 Queen, being altogether Ambitious, made it her bufinefs to pleafe the King, that 
 Ihe might the more eafily accomplifh her defigns ; and having a great defire to 
 eternize her Memory, fhe could not think of a better way, than to Coin a good 
 quantity of Money in her own Name : and of a different ftamp from that which 
 the Indian Kings were wont to Coin. For you rauft take notice, that all the Coins 
 of thofe Kings have only the Characters of the Countrey upon each fide of the 
 Piece. But this Queen caus'd one of the twelve Signs to be ftamp'd upon 
 upon each fide of Hers, which is contrary to the Law of Mahomet, that forbids all 
 manner of reprefentations. However, fhe had never brought her defign about, 
 had Saltan Kourom been at Court. But fhe took her time, when the King had 
 caus'd the eves of his eldeft Son,Snltan Kofrou to be put out,becaufe he had taken 
 up Arms againft him, with an intention to depofe him from his Throne. For after 
 he had obtain'd that Victory, he fent his fecond Son, Sultan Kourom, into Decan, 
 
 with 
 
Part II. An account of the Money of Asia. 
 
 With a powerful Army againft the King of Vtfapour, who was in Rebellion. O^jeen 
 Nourmahall feeing her felf deliver 'd from thofe that were able to crofs her de- 
 figns, and particularly from Sultan Kourcm, the molt Potent, and the moft inve- 
 terate of all her enemies, and believing it feafonable to difcover her purpofe to 
 the King, fet her felf to flatter him more than fhe was wont ; inventing new 
 ways to divertize him,fometimes with Hunting,and fometimes in the Haram,mth 
 Balls and Comedies : One day that the King was extremely well-plets'd, and 
 having drank briskly., began to b/e very merry - } after the Queen had Danc'd in 
 his prefence, he took her, and Jet her by him, protefting to her, that he 
 lov'd her above all the PrincefTes in his Gourt ; and that but for her, he had dy'd 
 for grief, to fee that his Son Sultan Kofron mould be fo traiteroufly bold, as to 
 endeavour to deprive him of his Scepter. The Q^een feeing the King fo highly 
 affected toward her, fail'd not to make ufe of Co favourable an opportunity. To 
 which purpofe, Sir, faid fhe, if it be true that your Majefty has that kindnefs for 
 me, of which you would perfwade me to afTure my felf, I know you will grant 
 me one favour which I have paffionately defir'd a long time j that I may only 
 Reign as Sovereign the fpace of twenty four hours. This requeft furpriz'd the 
 King, and kept him very fad for fome days , being unwilling to deny her any 
 thing, and yet being as loth to grant her a Boon of fo high a nature. In the mean 
 time the Queen ply'd the King with Paftime and Divertifements, pretending to 
 take no notice of his melancholy. At length the fift day after fhe had made her 
 Petition, the King no longer able to refift her Charms, nor the ftrong Paflion he 
 had for her, told her he would retire for twenty four hours, and that fhe might 
 aflume the abfolute Command of the Kingdom during that time. At the fame time 
 he caus'd all the Grandees that were then at Court, to be fent for into his prefence, 
 and then commanded them to obey her, and punctually to execute her Orders, as 
 if it were he himfelf that fpoke to them. It was a long time before that the 
 Queen had made every thing ready, and that fhe had fecretly hoarded up great 
 quantities of Gold and Silver in all the Cities where the Mints were appointed, 
 and had diftributed the Stamps as fhe thought convenient. And indeed it was a 
 wonderful thing, that a Woman fhould fo politickly carry on fo great a defign, as 
 to have four and twenty Stamps engrav'd, and to keep in a readinefs in Gold and 
 Silver above two Millions in all the Cities, without being difcovered to the King, 
 o: any of the Court. There were none but the Mint-Mafters that knew any thing 
 of her defign,whom fhe engag'd by large promifes,and larger hopes as believing 
 that fhe could certainly obtain her defire one day of the King} and then, if fhe 
 had her Materials ready, that fhe could do her bufinefs in twenty four hours. The 
 day being appointed, fhe fent away MefTcngers to all the Cities, commanding them 
 on that day to Coin Roupies of Gold and Silver, to the value already mention'd. 
 When the King and the Grandees came to underftand the bufinefs, they were 
 ftrangely furpriz'd ; efpecially Sultan Kosrrom, the Queens implacable enemy, 
 who, as fome perfons of the Countrey affur'd me, fainted away at the news,, and 
 did not come to himfelf in a good while after. The thing was fo fuddenly done, 
 efpecially in the Cities neer at hand, that within two hours after fhe was fate up- 
 on the Throne, fhe caus'd fcveral quantities of that Gold and Silver to be thrqwn 
 among the people, which during the Reign of Gehan-guir went currently for Ron- 
 pies. But when Sultan Kcurom, who took upon him the Name of Cha-geban came 
 to the Crown after the death of his Father, he forbad all perfons to ufe thofe 
 Roupies upon pain of death, and commanded all that had any of them, either, in 
 Gold or Silver, to carry them to the Mint ; where they mould receive the value 
 of them, to the end they might be melted down. For which reafon they are at 
 prefent very rare, particularly thofe in Gold ; among the reft, two or three of 
 them are fo hard to be found, that an hundred Crowns has been given for one of 
 them. The Roupies of Gold are worth one and twenty Livres of our Money : 
 and thofe of Silver, thirty Sous. The jQueen, during her Reign of twenty four 
 hours, had that refpecl: for the King, that on the back-fide of the Pieces whereon 
 the twelve Signs were Engraven, fhe caus'd the Name of Gehan-guir to be ftamp'd 
 with her own, and the name of the place where they were Coin'd, all in Atabu\ 
 Letters. 
 
 Perhaps the Reader may be curious to know from whence this llluftrious Queen . 
 
 *Cz of 
 
12 An account of the Money of Asia. Part II. 
 
 of the Indians defcended : and therefore for his (atisfa&ion, I will tell him in a 
 few words. Her Father, a Perfian by Nation, a man naturally Ambitious, and who 
 in his own Country was no more than a bare Captain of Horfe, without any 
 hopes of rifing to any higher preferment, travel'd into the Indies, to ferve the 
 Great Mogul, who was then Gehan-guir, with an intention of raifing his For- 
 tune in a itrange Country. Gehan-gmr had then many Enemies, the Kings of 
 Golconda and Fifapour being in Rebellion againft him, and feveral Raja's having 
 taken their part. So foon as he came to kifs the Kings Hands, the King took 
 a liking to him, and gave him immediately the Command of five hundred 
 Horfe. And becaufe he was very well skill'd in Aftrology, (which is a Science 
 to which the Afiatichs are very much addicted ) the King efteem'd him the 
 more, and in a fhort time made him General of his Army. But afterwards, 
 forgetting his duty, and the benefits he had received, he join'd with Sultan 
 Kofrou, Geban-guir's eldeft Son j and having gain'd a great part of the Army, 
 they confpir'd together to depofe the King, and fet up his Son in his ftead. 
 There was at that time in the Court, an Eunuch of great wit, who did more 
 mifchief to the Army in his Clofet, than he could have done in the Field. 
 This Eunuch, fo loon as intelligence was brought of the Rebellion, told the 
 King, that if his Majefty pleas'd, he would deliver Kofrou and the Perfian Ge- 
 neral into his hands in a fhort time, without fo much as ftriking one ftroke, 
 or lofing one man. He was as good as his word in parr, for he fo order'd 
 his bufinefs, by his politick contrivances, that the General was brought to the 
 King, who would not prefently put him to death. Sultan Kofrou efcap'd that 
 bout, and continu'd the War many years againft his Father, who at length took 
 him in Fight, and caus'd his eyes to be pull'd out. The King detaining the 
 General in cuftody, his Wife and his Daughter found a way to lave his life, as 
 you (hall hear. The Daughter of the Perfian General , who was his only 
 Child, was about fourteen years of Age, the moft accomplilh'd Beauty at 
 that time in all the Kingdom ; (he was moft rarely educated, and could both 
 write and r^ad the Arabian, Perfian, and Indian Languages. The Mother afld 
 the Daughter went everv day to Court, to hear what would become of the 
 General'; and underftanding at length, that the King intended either to put him 
 to death, or to banifti him, they came to the Haram, and cafting themielves 
 at his Majefties feet, the*' humbly begg'd pardon, the one for her Husband, 
 the other for her Father ; which they eafily obtain'd ; the King being furpriz'd 
 at the Beauty of the Virgin, to whom he afterwards furrci Jer'ci his Affections. 
 All the Court was aftonifrYd afterwards, how the General and his Wife could 
 keep, (b private, a Daughter that was fo incomparably fair, that it (hould not 
 come to the Kings knowledg. At length he lov'd her fo tenderly, that not 
 being able to deny her the liberty of Reigning one whole day in hrs place, 
 he gave her leave to (hare with him afterwards in the Government. And (he 
 it was, that gave motion to all the molt important Affairs of State j the King 
 excufing himfelf to the Grandee's of his Court, who wonder'd why he let the 
 Queen bear fo great a fway , by telling them, that (he was fit for the Go- 
 vernment, and that it was time for him to take his eafe. 
 
 Fig. i, and 2. is as all the reft are, the backfide of the Twelve Signs. Fig. 1. 
 is the backfide of the Ram, and Fig. 2. of Cancer. Both of them fignifie the 
 lame thing ; it being the Name of the King, Queen, and City where they were 
 ftamp'd. Thefe two were coin'd at Amadabat. 
 
 The Gold, Silver, and Copper Money which the Portugals coin fit 
 
 the Eaft Indies. 
 
 THe Gold which the Portugals Coin mGoa is better than our Louiffe's of Gold, 
 and weighs one grain more than our half Pifiol. At the time when I was in 
 Goa t this piece was worth four Roupies, or fix Franks, They hold it up at fb 
 
 high 
 
/ 
 
 V \ 
 
 I* 
 
 / 
 
Part. II. An account of the Money of Asia. 
 
 high a rare, to the end the Merchants, who come from all the Coafts of India 
 thither with their Wares, may not tranfport it out of the Countrey. This piece 
 is called St. Thomas. Formerly when the Portugue^ had the Trade of f.ipon, Ma- 
 cajfar, Sumatra, China and Mofambiquc, which they ftill preferve and is the 
 place whither the Indians bring the Gold of the Abaffms and Saba, it was a won- 
 derful thing to fee the quantity of Gold which the Fortuguez. Coin'd, and the fe- 
 veral pieces of workmanfhip which they fram'd in Gold, and fent into Forreign 
 Countreys, even to the Weil-Indies, by the way of the Philippine Iflands. But 
 now they have no other places but only Mofambique to furnifh them with Gold, 
 they keep up thofe Pieces called St. Thomafs's at a very high rate, left they mould 
 be carried out of the Countrey, as I faid before. They have alfo Silver Pieces, 
 which they call Pardos^ which go for the value of 27 Sous of our Money : As al- 
 fo a great quantity of fmall Copper and Tin-Money, not much unlike that of the 
 Kings already mentioned, which they thread upon ftrings in particular numbers. 
 
 The Geld and Silver Money of Mufcovy. 
 
 I Have obferved in my Relations, that in all parts of our Europe, where they 
 Coin Money, there are great Sums tranfported all over u4fia, where they go 
 currantly. But for the Money of Mufcovy there is great loft in traniporting it 
 any where elfe ; becaufe the Prince enhances it to fo high a value. The pieces as 
 well of Gold as Silver are very good Metal ; for the Gold in worth is fome- 
 what higher than our Lewis. 
 
 Fig. 1 and 2. This piece of Gold weighs 14 Grains; and to take the Gold at 
 48 Grains the Ounce, would amount to 20 Sous, one Deneer, and one half-peny 
 of our Money. But going in Mufcovy for 24 Sous, there would be nineteen and 
 an half lofs to tranfport it any where elfe. 
 
 Fig. 3 and 4. Is a piece of Silver that weighs eight Grains ■, and to take an 
 Ounce of Silver at three Livres ten Sous, it comes to a Sous of our Money. But 
 in the Countrey you have but fifty of thefe pieces, or at moft fometimes fifty two 
 for one of our Crowns, or a Real of Spam, or an High-German Rixdollar. 
 
 Fig. j and 6. Is a piece of Silver alfo which only goes in Mufcovy. But I 
 cannot tell in what Province it is Coin'd, in regard there are no Arms upon it, and 
 that the moft knowing perfons, to whom I fhewed them, could not tell me what 
 the Characters meant ; which makes me think it is very ancient. The piece weighs 
 25- Grains, which comes to three of our Sous, one Deneer, and one half-peny. 
 ! This is all that I could collect of moft certainty, concerning the Money and 
 Coins of the Eaft, during the long courfe of my Travels. Nor do I believe that 
 any perfon has undertaken, before me, to write upon the fame Subject. If any 
 one of my Readers defires to fee the real Pieces themfelves, as well in Gold and 
 Silver, as in Tin, Copper, Shells and Almonds, he may, without queftion, obtain 
 the Favour from Monfieur, the firft Prefident, to whofe Study I devoted them all, 
 together with certain Medals, of which that Supreme Senator, moft skilful in An- 
 tiquity, has great ftore, being ftill curious in fearching after what is rare. 
 
 The end of the Corns, 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
Book I. 
 
 15 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 I N D I A. 
 
 The Firft Book* 
 
 What Roads to take, in Travelling from Ifpahan 
 to Agra, from Agra to Dehly and Gehana- 
 batt, where the Great Mogul Kefides at pre-* 
 fent : And how to Travel alfo to the Court of the 
 King of Golconda^ to the King of Vifapour, 
 and to many other Places in the Indies, 
 
 chap. 1. 
 
 The Road from Ifpahan to Agra through Gomron : Where is particu- 
 larly de\crib d the manner of Sailing from Ormus to Suratt. 
 
 ~*W N this Relation of my Indian, I will obferve the fame Method as in the Reci- 
 
 ■ tal of my Perfian Travels ; and begin with the defcription pf the Roads, 
 
 ■ which lead you from Ifpahan to Dehly and Gehanadatt,vfhere the Great Mo- 
 JL^.gul Refides at prefent. 
 
 Though the Indies ftretch themfelves front Perfia for the fpace of above 400 
 Leagues together, from the Ocean to that long Chain of Mountains that runs 
 through the middle of Afia from the Eaft to the Weft, and which was known to 
 Antiquity by the Name of Mount Caucafus, or Mount Taurus-, yet there are not Co 
 many ways to travel out of Perfia. into the Indies, as there are to travel out of 
 Turky into Perfia ; by reafon that between Perfia and the Indies there are nothing 
 but vaft Sands and Defarts, where there is no water to be found. So that you have 
 but two Roads to choofe, in going from Ifpahan to Agra. The one is partly by 
 Land, and partly by Sea ; taking Ship at Ormus. The other altogether by Land, 
 through Candahar. The firft of thefe two Roads is amply defcrib'd, as far as Or- 
 mus, at the end of my firft Book of my Perfian Travels. So that I am now only 
 to (peak of the manner of Sailing from Ormus to Suratt. 
 
 There is no Sailing at all times upon the Indian as upon the European Seas : 
 You muft oblerve the proper feafons, which being elaps'd, there is no more ven- 
 turing. The Months of November, December, January, February and March, are 
 the only Months in the year to Embark from Ormus to Suratt ; and from Suratt 
 
 to 
 
An account of the Money of Asia. Part II. 
 
 to Ortniis : Bur with this difference, that there is no ftirring from Suratt after the 
 end of February ; but you may Sail from Ormus till the end of M^rch, or the fif- 
 teenth of April: For then the Weftern- winds, that bring rain along with them, 
 into India, Ixgin to blow. During the firft lour Months there blows a North-eaft- 
 wind, which carries them from Suratt to Ormu* in fifteen or twenty days. Then 
 veering a little to the North, it fervesas well for thole that are bound for Suratt, 
 as thofe that are bound from thence. Then the Merchants generally provide for 
 a Voyage of thirty, or five and thirty days. But if they would Sail bom Ormus 
 to Suratt in fourteen or fifteen days, they muft take Shipping either in March, or 
 at the beginning of April ; for then the Weftern-wind blows full in their 
 Stern. 
 
 The Veffels which Sail from Ormus run within fight of Mafcate upon the Coaft 
 of Arabia, bearing off to Sea for fear of coming too near the Perjian Coaft. They 
 that come from Suratt 3 do the fame thing, to make the Entry of the Gulf. Eut 
 neither the one nor the other touch at Mafcate, to avoid paying Cultoms to an 
 Arabian Prince, who took that place from the Portugals. 
 
 Mafcate is a City fituated ;ult by the Sea-fide, over againft three Rocks that 
 make the Entry into the Harbour very difficulty and at the foot of a Mountain 
 upon which the Portugal* have three or four Forts. It is obferved that Mafcate, 
 Ormus, and Balfara, are the three places in the Ealt where the heat is molt in- 
 fupportable. Formerly only the Hollanders and EngUJh underftood this Courfe 
 of Navigation ; but fome years after the Armenians, Mahometans, Indians, and 
 Banians, have built them Veflels. But it is not fo fafe to Embark in them, for 
 they neither underftand the Sea fo well, nor are they fo good Pilots. 
 
 The Veffels that Sail to Suratt, which is the only Part in the Empire of the 
 Great Mogul, Sail within fight of Diu, and the Point of St. fohn, and come to an 
 Anchor afterwards in the Road of Couali, which is not above four Leagues from 
 Suratt, and two from the Mouth of the River toward the North. They traufporc 
 their Wares from one place to another, either by Waggons, or in Boats. For 
 great Veffels cannot get into the River of Suratt. till they have unladen, by reafon 
 of the Sands that choak it up. The Hollanders return as loon as they have landed 
 their Wares at Couali, and fo do the Englifo, it not being permitted to either to 
 enter into the River. But fome years fmce, the King has given the EngUJh a place 
 to Winter in., during the rainy Seafons. 
 
 Suratt is a City of an indifferent bignefs, defended by a pittiful Fortrefs, by the 
 foot whereof you muft pals, whither you go by Land or by Water. It has four 
 Towers at the four Corners, and in regard there are no Platforms upon the Walls, 
 Guns are planted upon woodden-Scaftolds. The Governour of the Fort only com- 
 mands the Souldiers in the Fort, but has no Power in the City, which has a par- 
 ticular Governour to receive the King's Cuftoms, and other Revenues through the 
 Extent of his Province. 
 
 The Walls of the Town are only of Earth, and the generality of the Houfes 
 like Barns, being built of Reeds, plaiftered with Cow-dung, to cover the void 
 fpaces, and to hinder them without from difcerning between the Reeds what is 
 done within. In all Suratt there be but nine or ten Houfes Which are well built : 
 whereof the Cha-bander, or chief of the Merchants has two or three. The 
 reft belong to the Mahumetan Merchants ; nor are thofe, wherein the Engli/b 
 and Hollanders dwell, lefs beautiful ; every Prefident, and every Commander, be- 
 ing careful to repair them j which they put upon the account of their Compa- 
 nies. However, they do but hire thofe Houfes ; the King not fuffering anv Frank, 
 to have an Houfe of his own, for fear he mould make a Fortrefs of it. The Ca- 
 puchin Friars have built them a very convenient Convent, according to the Modtl 
 of our European Houfes, and a fair Church j for the building of which, I furnifh'd 
 them with good part of the Money. But the Purchafe was made in the Name 
 of a Maronite Merchant of Aleppo, whole Name was Chelebi, of whom I hare 
 fpoken in my Perfian Relations. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Book I. 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Of the Cuftoms, Money, Exchange , Weights and Measure 's 
 
 of the Indians. 
 
 TO avoid Repetitions, which cannot be fhunn'd in the Courfe of long Travels 5 
 it behoves me to let the Reader underftand what belongs to the Cuftom- 
 houfes, Money, Exchange, Weights and Meafures of the Indians. 
 
 When your Commodities are unladen at Suratt, you mult carry them to the 
 Cuftom-houfe adjoyning to the Fort. They are very fevere, and very exact in 
 fearching the people. Particular Merchants pay from four to five per Cent at the 
 Cuftom-houfe for all forts of Ware. But for the Englifh and i/o/ZW-Company, 
 they pay lefs : But I believe if they did but caft up what it cofts them in Depu- 
 tations and Prefents which they are oblig'd every year to fend to the Court, 
 they would not pay much lefs for their Wares, than particular Merchants. 
 
 Gold and Silver pay two in the Hundred, and when it is brought into the 
 Cuftom-houfe, the Mafter of the Mint comes and takes it, and Coins it into the 
 Money of the Gountrey. They agree with him upon the day wherein he will un- 
 dertake to return the new Pieces : And for fo many days as he makes them ftay 
 after that, he pays them Intereft, according to the proportion of the Silver 
 which he receives. The Indians are very fubtil and crafty in matters of Money 
 and Payments} three or. four years after the Silver is coin'd, it lofes half per 
 Cent, and goes at the fame rate as old Silver ; for, fay they, it is impoffible but 
 that it fhould lofe in paffing through fo many hands. You may carry all forts of 
 Silver into the Dominions of the Great Mogul. For in all the Frontier Cities 
 there is a Mint, where it is purified to the higheft perfection, as is all the Gold 
 and Silver in India, by the King's Command, and coin'd into Money. Silver in Bars, 
 or old Plate, which is bought without paying for the fafhion, is the Silver by 
 which you fhall lofe leaft : For as for coin'd Silver, there is no avoiding the lofs 
 of the Coinage. All their bargains are made, w. ; th a condition to pay in coin'd 
 Silver, within the prefent year.. And if you make payment in old Silver, you 
 muft refolve to lofe according to the time fince it was firft coin'd. In all places 
 far remote from Cities, where the vulgar people have no great knowledg in Sil- 
 ver, and where there are no Changers, they will not receive a piece of Silver, 
 without putting it in the fire, to try whether it be good or no : And this is the 
 common practice at all Ferries and paffages over Rivers. In regard their Boats 
 are only made of Ofier, covered over with an Ox-hide, and by confequence are 
 very light ; they keep them in the Woods, and Will not take them upon their 
 fhoulders, till they have received their Money. 
 
 As for their Gold, the Merchants have fo many cunning tricks to hide ir, that it 
 feldom comes to the knowledg of the Cuftomers. They do all they can to fhift off 
 paying the Cuftomsjand that, fo much the rather, becaufe they do not run fo much 
 hazard as at the Cuftom-houfes of Europe. For in the Indian Cuftom-houfes, if 
 a man be caught in the fraud, he is quitted by paying double ; ten in the hundred, 
 inftead of five : The King comparing the venture of the Merchant to a game at 
 Hazard, where he plays quit or double. The King had granted to the Englijh 
 Captains, that they fhould not be fearch'd when they came a-fhore. But one day 
 one of the Engltjh Captains going to Tata 3 one of the greateft Cities in India, a 
 little above the Mouth of the River Indou, as he was going to pafs the River, he 
 was ftopp'd by the Officers of the Cuftom-houfe, who fearch'd and rifl'd him, 
 what-ever he could alledg to the contrary. They found Gold about him, of 
 which he had already carried off feveral quantities, at feveral times, that he had 
 gone from his Ship to the City ; but they quitted him, upon paying the ufual 
 Cuftom. The Englijh-vaxa, vex'd at fuch an affront, refolv'd to revenge himfelf j 
 which he did after a very pleafant manner. He caus'd a fucking-pig to be roafted, 
 and putting it, together with the dripping, and fawce, in a C^«d-pJatter, covered 
 with a Iinneiv-cloath, he gave it a Slave to bring along after him to the City - t 
 
 * D imagining* 
 
Travels in India 
 
 Part n. 
 
 imagining what would fall out. As it pafs'd before the Cuftom-houfe, while the 
 Governors or the Cha-bander, and . the Mint-Mafter were fitting in the Divan, 
 they fail'd not to ftop himj and as the Slave went forward with the Plate cover'd, 
 they told his Mafter that he mult come into the Cuftom-houfe, and that they 
 mult fee what he carried. The more the EngUJh-mzn cry'd, that the Slave car- 
 ried nothing that paid any duties, the lefs he was believ'd j fo that after a long 
 debate he took the Plate from his Slave, and carried it himlelf into the Divan $ 
 the Governour and the Cha-bander, gravely ask'd him, why he would not be obe- 
 dient to the Laws ? Upon which the Englijh-vtxzn, replying in a great heat, that he 
 carried nothing which paid any duty, threw the Pigg among them with fuch a fu- 
 ry, that the Sawce and Pigg flew all upon their Garments. Now in regard that 
 Swines-flefh is an abomination to the Mahometans, who believe every thing de- 
 fil'd that touches it j they were forc'd to change thoir Glothes, take down the 
 Tapeftry of the Divan, to pull down the Divan it fclf, and build another, not da- 
 ring to lay any thing to the EngUJh-rmn j for the Cha-bander, and Mint-mafter 
 are very obfervant to the Company, by whom they reap a great deal of profit. 
 As for what concerns the Heads of the Companies, as well Engli/b, as Dutch, and 
 their AlTociates, they have fo great a refpeft for them, that they never fearch 
 them at all, when they come a-lhore j though they will not ftick to conceal their 
 Gold, like particular Merchants, and to carry it about them. The Trade of Tata, 
 formerly very great,begins now to decay, becaufe the Mouth of the Rivers grows 
 more dangerous, and full of mallows every day more than other, the Sand-hills 
 having almoft choak'd it up. 
 
 The Englijh finding they had learn'd the trick of rifling their Clothes, ftudi'd out 
 other little ways and contrivances to conceal their Gold : And the fafhion of wear- 
 ing Perriwigs being newly come out of Enrope, they hid their facobus y s, Rofe- 
 Nobles, and Ducats in the net of their Perriwigs, every time they came a-fhore. 
 
 There was a Merchant that had a mind to convey fome boxes of Coral into 
 Suratt, without the knowledg of the Cuftomers. He fwam then into the Town, 
 fbme days before the Ship was unladed, when it might be done fecurely before 
 the Guftomers had any fufpition of any thing. But the Merchant repented him 
 afterwards, the Commodity being fpol'd. For the water of Suratt River being al- 
 ways thick and muddy, there clung to the Coral, which had lain a long time in 
 the water, a flime like a white cruft or skin, which was difficult to be got off $ fo 
 that after the Coral was polifh'd, he loft by it above twelve per Cent. 
 ■ I come now to the Money which goes for currant through the whole extent of 
 the Great Mogul's Dominions ; and to all the forts of Gold and Silver, which is 
 carri'd thither in Ingots to make profit thereof. 
 
 In the firft place you muft obferve that it is very profitable to buy Gold and 
 Silver which has been wrought, to melt it into Ingots, and to refine it to the 
 higheft purity : For being refin'd, you pay not for the portage of the Alloy, which 
 was mix'd with it before : And carrying the Gold and Silver in wedges, you pay 
 neither to the Prince nor to the Mint what they exact for Coinage. If you carry 
 coin'd Gold, the beft pieces are facobus's, Rofe-Nobles, Albertus's, and' other anci- 
 ent Pieces, as well of Portugal, as of other Countreys,, and all forts of Gold that 
 have been coin'd in former Ages. For by all thofe old Pieces the Merchant is 
 fure to gain. You may alfo reckon for good Gold, and which is proper to be car- 
 ri'd thither, all the Ducats of Germany, as well thofe coin'd by the feveral Prin- 
 ces, as by the Imperial Towns, together with the Ducats of Poland, Hungary, 
 Swdeland and Danemark^ ; and indeed all forts of Ducats are taken to be of tne 
 farm? goodnefs. The Venetian Ducats of Gold formerly pafs'd for the beft, and 
 Were worth four or five of our Sous, more than any others } but about a dozen 
 years ago they feem to have been alter'd, not going now for any more than the 
 reft. There are alfb Ducats which the Grand Seignior coins at Cairo, and thofe of 
 Sally, and Morocco : But thefe three forts are not fo good as the others, and are 
 not worth fo much as they by four Sous of our Money. 
 
 Over all the Empire of the Great Mogul, all the Gold and Silver is weigh'd 
 with weights, which they call To/la ; which weigh nine Deneers, and eight grains 
 of our weights. When they have any quantity of Gold and Silver to fell, the In- 
 dians ufe yellow Copper- weights, with the King •« mark, to avoid coufenage. And 
 
 with 
 
Book! Travels in India. 
 
 faith thefe weights they weigh all the Gold and Silver at once, provided it a- 
 mount not to above a hunder'd TolWs. For the Changers have no other weights, 
 but from one Tolia to a hunder'd j and a hunder'd TolUs come to 38 Ounces, 
 21 Deneers, and 8 Grains. As for the Gold and Silver which is not eoind, 
 if there be much, they effay it ; and having put it to the touch> they bid to 
 the utmoft value to out-vye one another. 
 
 In regard there are fome Merchants that have above forty or fifty thou- 
 fand Ducats at a time, the Indians weigh them with a weight which is ;u& 
 the weight of a hunder'd Ducats, which is alfo mark'd with the Kings Mark j 
 and if the hundred Ducats weigh lefs than the weights, they put in fb many little 
 ftones till the Scales are even ; and after all is weigh'd, they make good to the 
 Changer the weight of thofe little ftones. But before they weigh thefe Gold- 
 Coins, whether they be Ducats or other Pieces, they put the whole quantity into 
 a CharcoaI-fire,till they be red-hot ; and then quench the fire with water,and take 
 them out again. This they do to find out them which are falfe,and to melt off the 
 Wax and Gum,which is cunningly dropt upon them to make them weigh the more. 
 Butbecaufe there are fome Pieces fb artfully hollow'd and ftopt up again, that you 
 cannot perceive it,though they have been in the fire,the Changers take the Pieces, 
 and bend themjby which they know whether they are good or nojand thofe which 
 they fufpect they cut in pieces. After they have viewed them all, they refine 
 thofe which they do not take to be good, and pay for fo much as proves to be 
 good, as for good Ducats. All this Gold they coin into that fort of Money which 
 they call Roupies of Gold j except thofe Ducats, which are ftamp'd only upon 
 one fide, Which they fell to the Merchants that come from Tartary, and other 
 Northern Parts, as from the Kingdoms of Bhutan, A[en, and other remote parts. 
 With thefe Ducats the Women of thofe Countries chiefly adorn themfelves, 
 hanging them upon their Head-attire, and fixing them upon their forheads. As 
 for the other Ducats, that have no figures, they are not fo much as enquir'd after 
 by the Northern Merchants. 
 
 As for all the other Pieces of Gold, there are great quantities of them fold 
 to the Goldfmiths, to the G old- wyar- drawers, and in general to all that work 
 in Gold. For if they could put their Metal unmade into Roupies, they would 
 never coin 5 which they can only do at the Coronation of their Kings, to throw 
 Silver Roupies among the people ; or to fell them to the Governours of the . 
 Provinces, and other Grandees of the Court, who then want great quantities 
 of them to prefent to the new King at his firft coming to his Throne. For 
 they have not always Jewels or other things rich enough to prefent him, as 
 well as that time, as at another Feftival, of which I fhall fpeak in due place, 
 when they weigh the King every year. At fuch times I fay, they are very 
 glad of Gold Roupies ; as alfo to prefent to fuch Favourites at the Court, by 
 whofe intereft they hope to gain higher Commands, and more Confiderable Go- 
 vernments. 
 
 In one of my Travels, I found by experience the vertue of thefe Roupies of 
 Gold. Cha-jehan, Father of Ora.ng-z.eb who now reigns, had given to one of the 
 Lords of his Court, the Government of the Province of Tata, whereof Sjmdi 
 is the Metropolis. Now though the very firft year of his Government, there 
 were very great complaints made againft him, by reafonof the Tyranny which 
 he exerciftd over his people, and his great extortions, the King fuffer'd him 
 to continue four years, and then recall'd him. All the people of Tata were 
 overjoy'd, believing the King had call'd him away, only to put him to death j 
 but it fell out quite otherwife ; for the King carefs'd him, and gave him the 
 Government of Halabas, more confiderable than that which he had quitted. 
 This kind reception, which he had at the Kings hands, proceeded from this, 
 that before he came to Agrafaz had fent before him a prefent of 5-0000 Roupies of 
 Gold, and about 20000 Roupies of Gold more to Begttm-Saheb, who had then 
 the whole power in her hands ; as alfo to other Ladies and Lords at the 
 Court, to fupport his Reputation. All the Courtiers are very defirous to have 
 a great quantity of Gold ; becaufe it lies in a little room, and then becaufe they 
 covet, as a great Honour,to leave vaft Sums behind them, to their Wives and Chil- 
 dren,- of which the King mult not know, For as I fhall tell you in another place; 
 
 * D z' \Vhen 
 
20 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Part II. 
 
 when any great Lord dies, the King is Heir to all his Eftate j his Wife having no 
 more than his Jewels. 
 
 But to return to our Roupies of Gold ; you muft take notice, that they are 
 not fo currant among the Merchants. For in regard one of them is not worth 
 above fourteen Roupies, which make one and twenty Livres of our Money, ac 
 thirty Sous the Roupie, and that there are few of thefe Roupies of Gold to be 
 had, but in the Houfes of Great Men ; when it falls out that they make any pay- 
 ment, they will put them at a Roupie of Silver, or at leaft at a fourth part of a 
 Roupie more than it is worth, which will never turn to the Merchants profit. 
 Cha-Eft-Kan the King's Unckle, to whom I had fold a parcel of Goods at 96000 
 Roupies, when he came to pay me,ask'd me what Money I would be content to 
 take, whether Gold or Silver. Before I could return him an anfwer, he added, 
 that if I would leave it to him, I mould take Gold Roupies : Nor did he give me 
 this advice, but becaufe he believ'd it would turn to his advantage : I told him 
 I would be rufd by him 5 thereupon he caus'd his Servants to tell me out fo raa^ 
 ny Roupies in Gold, as made up the juft Sum which was due : But he would force 
 me to take the Roupie in Gold for fourteen Roupies and an half in Silver, though 
 among the Merchants they went but for fourteen. I was not ignorant of it } but 
 I thought it beft td receive my Money according to the Prince's humour, in hopes 
 he might make me amends another time, either for the whole, or part of what 
 I might lofe. I let him alone two days, after which I went to him again, and told 
 him I had tried to put off his Roupies at the price I had received them ; fo that 
 in the payment of 96000 Roupies, I had loft 3428 and one 16th. the Roupie of 
 Gold which he forc'd me to take at fourteen Roupies and an half of Silver, being 
 worth but fourteen. Thereupon he fell into a paffion, and told me he would fee 
 as many Lafhes beftow'd upon the Changer, or Holland-Broker, whofe fault fo- 
 ever it were j that he would teach them to underftand Money j that they were 
 old Roupies, and were worth more by a fixteenth part of a Silver Roupie, than 
 the Roupies which were coin'd at that time. In regard I knew the humour of 
 the ^4fiatic Princes, with whom there is no contending, I let him fay what he 
 pleas'd $ but when he came to himfelf, and began to put on a fmiling look, I de- 
 fir'd him that he would be pleas'd to let me return the Summ which I had re- 
 ceived,the next day; or elfe that he would be pleas'd to pay me what was wanting, 
 and that I would take a Roupie at i4and one 16th. fince he alfur'd me they were 
 worth fo much. The Prince for a while gave me a fcurvy look, not fo much as 
 fpe&king one word. At length he a sk'd me,, whether I had (till the Pearl, which 
 he had refus'd to buy. I told him I had, and immediately pull 'd it out Of my 
 Bofbme, and gave it him. The Pearl was large, and of a good water, but ill- 
 fhap'd j which was the reafon he refus'd it before. When I had given it to him, 
 well, faid he, let us talk no more of what is palt ; bow much will you have, in a 
 word, for this Pearl ? I ask'd him (even thoufand Roupies, and indeed rather than 
 I would have carri'd it into France, I would have taken three. If I give thee, 
 faid he, feven thoufand Roupies for this Pearl, I fhall- make thee amends for the 
 Iofs thou complain'ft of in the firft bargain. Come to Morrow, and I will give 
 thee five thoufand Roupies, and that's very fair : Thou fhalt have alfb a Calaac 
 and an Horfe. I made my obeyfance to him, and defir'd him to give me an Horfe 
 that fhould be young, and fit for fervice, becaufe I had a great journey to take. 
 The next day he fent me a Robe, a Cloak, two Girdles, and a Cap 3 which is all 
 the Apparel that the Princes are wont to give to thofe to whom they intend any 
 Honour. The Cloak and Robe was of Satin purfled with Gold ; the two Girdles 
 ftrip'd with Gold and Silver ; the Cap was of Calicut, dy'd into a Flame-colour, 
 with ftripes of Gold : The Horfe had no Saddle, but was covered with a green 
 Velvet foot-cloath, edg'd about with a fmall Silver-fringe. The Bridle was very 
 ftrait, with Silver-ftuds in fome places. I believe the Horfe had never been 
 back'd j for fo foon as I brought him to the Holland-Won^, where I then Iodg'd, 
 a young man got upon his back j but he was no fboner on, but the Horfe flung 
 and prane'd at that rate, that having kick'd down an Hutt that flood in the Court, 
 he had like to have kill'd the Hollander. Finding that fuch a Refty-Horfe was 
 not for my turn, I fent him back to Cha-eft-Kan, and relating the Story to him, 
 I told him I did not believe that he defir'd I fhould return into my Countrey to 
 
Book I 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 bring him back fome rarities which I had promis'd him, as he made me be- 
 lieve he did. All the while I talk'd, he laugh'd, and afterwards fent for the 
 Horfe which his Father in his life time us'd to ride upon. It was a tall Per- 
 jian Horfe, that had formerly coft five thoufand Crowns, but was then twenty 
 eight years old. They brought him bridl'd and faddl'd, and the Prince would 
 needs have me get up in his pretence. He had one of the moft ftately walks 
 that ever I knew in a Horfe j and when I alighted, well, laid he, art thou fa- 
 tisfied? I dare fay, that Horfe will never give thee a fall. I thank'd him, 
 and at the fame time took my leave of him and the next day, before my 
 departure, he fent me a great Basket of Apples. It was one of the fix that Cha- 
 jehan had fent him, as they came from the Kingdom of Kachemir ; there was 
 in the Basket alfo a great Perfian Melon : All this might be worth a hundred 
 Roupies, which I prefented to the Holland Commanders Wife* As for the 
 Horfe, I rode him to Gokonda, where I fold him for five hundred Roupies, 
 as old as he was, being a good lufty Beaft. 
 
 To return to our difcourfe of Money , I will add this . to. what I have 
 faid already, that you muft never carry Louis's of Gold to the Indies, nor 
 Spanifh nor Italian Piftols, nor any other fort of Money coin'd within thefe 
 few years 5 for there is great lofs by it j for the Indians refine all, and count 
 only upon the refinings. Laftly, every one ftrives to fteal the cuftom of their 
 Gold ; and when the Merchant has got the knack of concealing it, he may 
 gain five or fix of our Sous in every Ducat. 
 
 I come now to the forts of Silver Money j which you muft diftingurfh in- 
 to Money of the Country, and Forreign Money : And firft of the Forreign 
 Coins. 
 
 The Forreign Silver Coins which are carried into the Indies, are the Rix- 
 dollars of Germany and the Reals of Spain. The firft are brought by the Merchants 
 that come from Poland, from the Leffer Tartary, and the Borders of Mujco- 
 via. The others by thofe that come from Conftantinople } Smyrna, and Aleppo, 
 and the greateft part by the Armenians, who (ell their Silk into Europe. All 
 thefe Merchants endeavour to convey their Silver through Perfia without be- 
 ing difcovered ; for if the Cuftomers find it out, they will be forced to carry 
 their Silver to the Mint-Mafters to be coined into Abajfi s, which is the Kings 
 Coin j and thefe Abajfi s being carried into India, are again coined into Rou- 
 pies, whereby the Merchant lofes ten and a quarter per Cent, as well by reafon of 
 the coinage, as by paying the Kings duties in Perfa. 
 
 To let you underftand in a few words, how they came to lofe this ten and 
 a quarter per Cent, from Perfia to the Indies, and fometimes more, according 
 to the nature of the Reals, which they ufually carry into Perfia ; you mult 
 call to mind, what I have already laid concerning the Money and Exchanges 
 of Perfa, in the firft Volume. I obferv'd, that a Real in Perfia goes for 23 
 Chaez., which make three Abajfi' s and a quarter ; and that fometimes, when 
 Silver is fcarce, they will give a Chaez. and a half for one. That the Abajfi 
 is worth four Chaez., and the Toman fifty Abajfi s, or two hundred Chaez.. If 
 you carry fix Tomans and a half to the Indies, you have for every Toman twenty- 
 nine Roupies and a half ; and confequently for fix Tomans and a half, a hundred 
 and ninety-one Roupies and a quarter. If you carry to the Indies Reals of Sevih, 
 for a hundred you fhall have from 213 to 2iy Roupies. If you carry Mexi- 
 can Reals, for a hundred you (hall have no more than 212. So that when 
 for a hundred Reals you have but two hundred and twelve Roupies, you gain 
 ten Reals and a quarter, in an hundred Reals $ but by the Sevillian Reals you 
 profit eleven per Cent. 
 
 There are three or four forts of Spanifh Reals, and they give for a hundred 
 according to their goodnefs, from 218 to 214 and 21 y Roupies. The beft 
 of all are thofe of Sevd, for when they are full weight, they will give for 
 a hundred, 213 Roupies } and fometimes 21 according as Silver is either 
 fcarce or plentiful. 
 
 The Real of Spain ought to weigh three Drams, feven Grains and a half 
 more than two Roupies. But the Silver of the Roupies is much better. For 
 the Roupy is in weight eleven Deneers and fourteen Grains j but the Sevil 
 
 Real/ 
 
22 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Partll 
 
 Real, like ooar white Crown, is but juft eleven Deneecs. The Mexican Real 
 goes at ten Deneers and twenty-one Grains. For the Spanifb Real, that weighs 
 feventy-three Vals, you have four IMamoudi's and a half, and one Mamoudi is 
 worth twenty Pecha's font they muft be very good, and as I have faid aJ- 
 ready, feventy- three Vals in weight : eigfkty-one Vals inaiking an Ounce, one 
 Val coming to ieven Deneers. 
 
 For the RixdoUars of Germany, in regard they are heavier than the Reals, 
 they will give you for an hundred, as high as an hundred and fixreen Roupies. 
 Where you arc to take ^notice, that in giving for an hundred Reals, or an hun - 
 dred RixdoUars, two hundred and fifteen, or two hundred and fixteen Roupies, 
 it ieems that every Roupy ought to be worth lefs than thirty Sous. But if 
 the Merchant count the portage of the SUver, and the Cuftoms, he will rind 
 that every Roupy will iftand him in more. But that the Merchant may make 
 his profit, he muil: take notice, that all the Reals of Mexics, and thofe of Seutl^ 
 are in weight one and twenty Deneers and eight Grains, that is, five hundred 
 and twelve Grains j and for thofe that are no better than our white Crown, 
 they are to be in weight one and twenty Deneers and three Grains, which 
 makes five hundred and nine Grains. All Dollars and Reals are weigh'd, a 
 hundred at a time, and when they are wanting in weight, they add little ftones, 
 as when they weigh Gold, according to what I mail tell you by and by. 
 
 We come now to the Money of the Country. The Indian Money is the 
 Silver Roupy, the Half, Quarter, Eighteenth and Sixteenth part. The weight 
 of the Roupy is nine Deneers and one Grain ; the value of the Silver is ele- 
 ven Deneers and fourteen Grains. They have alio another fort of Silver Mo- 
 ney ^ which they call Mamoudi's, but this goes no-where but in Surat, and in 
 the Province of Gu^erat. 
 
 The Indians have alfo a fort of fmall Copper Money, which is call'd Pecha 3 
 which is worth about two of our Liards, a Liard being the fourth part of a 
 Sous. There is alio the Half Pecha, two Pecha's, and Four Pecha's. Acce- 
 ding to the cuftom of the Province where you travel, you have for a Roup, 
 of Silver more or lefs of thefc Pecha's. In my laft Travels, a Roupy went 
 at Surat for nine and forty Pecha's. But the time was, when it was worth 
 fifty, and another time, when it went but for fix and forty. At Agra and Gt- 
 hanabat , the Roupy was valued at fifty-five and fifty-fix Pecha's. And the 
 reafon is, becaufe the nearer you go to the Copper Mines, the more Pecha's 
 you have for a Roupy. As for the Mamoudi, it is always valued at forty 
 Pecha's. 
 
 There are two other forts of fmall Money in the Dominions of the Great Mo- 
 gull, which are little bitter Almonds and Shells. Thefe little bitter Almonds, 
 which are brought out of Perfia, are only made ufe of in the Province of Ghxu- 
 ratt j as I have obferved in the ifirft part of my Relations. They grow in dry and 
 barren places among the Rocks, and the Tree, that bears them, is almoft like our 
 Baftard Spanijh- Broom. They call thefe Almonds Baden : Nor is there any Colo- 
 quintida fo bitter. They give for a Pecha fometimes thirty five, and fometime* 
 forty. 
 
 Their other fmall Money are the little Shells which they call Cori ; the fides 
 whereof turn circularly inward : Nor are they to be found in any part cf the 
 World, but in the Maldives Iflands. They are the greateft part of the Revenue 
 of the King of that Ifland. For they are tranfported into all the Territories of 
 the Great Mogull j into the Kingdoms of Fifapour and Golconda j and into the 
 Iflands of America to ferve inftead of Money. Near the Sea they give 80 for a 
 Pecha. But the further you go from the Sea, the lefs you have ; fo that at Agra, 
 they will not give you above yo or j- j for a Pecha. As to what remains accord- 
 ing to the Accompt of the Indians, 
 
 100000 Roupies make a Lekke. 
 
 100000 Lekks make a Kraur. 
 
 1 00000 Kraur's make a Padan. 
 
 100000 Padan's make a Nil. 
 In the Indies, the Village muft be very fmall, where there does not refide a Ban- 
 ker, whom they call Ch&afi; whofc bufwefs it is to remit Money and Bills of 
 
 Exchange. 
 
Book I. 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 23 
 
 duct" ail tiie Qmpxre oj the (p-eah 
 zMoxpiii and in other vwrts of Snim 
 the Udolaforfj ihoiujii they dtjpr m tfiar 
 iaru/iiayes, maize me ^oftftare ^ort^Qijms 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 11 
 
 
 21 
 
 
 31 
 
 £1 
 
 41 
 
 V4 
 
 2 
 
 
 12 
 
 
 22, 
 
 
 32 
 
 et, 
 
 42 
 
 
 3 
 
 e 
 u 
 
 13 
 
 M 
 
 
 
 33 
 
 £8 
 
 
 
 
 v 
 
 14- 
 
 IV 
 
 0 & 
 
 
 34 
 
 
 44 
 
 vv 
 
 0 
 
 y 
 
 IS 
 
 ff 
 
 25" 
 
 
 33 
 
 &y 
 
 4jr 
 
 vy 
 
 e 
 
 3 
 
 ie 
 
 
 25" 
 
 
 36* 
 
 
 45* 
 
 
 7 
 
 9 
 
 17 
 
 \9 
 
 27 
 
 
 37 
 
 19 
 
 47 
 
 VP 
 
 * 
 
 
 1Z 
 
 
 25 
 
 
 
 tZ 
 
 4S 
 
 
 9 
 
 Q 
 
 19 
 
 
 2S 
 
 
 3S 
 
 til: 
 
 45 
 
 
 10 
 
 %. 
 
 20 
 
 
 5o 
 
 £. 
 
 
 v. 
 
 
 y. 
 
 
 i: 
 
 
 i. 
 
 IOOO J 
 
 
 
 
 
 1... 
 
 4 oxrero 
 
 
 • • 
 
 2 OXrWJ^— 
 
 
 
 i. 
 
 
 1 00000 
 
 1 
 
 
 1 OCKKKK) A — 
 
 Exchange, tn regard that theft Bankers hold a Correfpondence with the Gover- 
 hours of the Province, they raite as they pleafe themftlves, the Roupie for the 
 Pecha's, and the Pecha's for the Shells. All the Jews that deal in Money and Ex- 
 change in the Empire of the Grand Seignior, are accounted a moft fubtil fort of 
 people. But in the Indies they would be ftarce thought fit to be Apprentices to 
 thefe Bankers. They have one very bad cuftom in making of Payments : And I have 
 already obferv'd it, in reference to their Roupies of Gold. When, they make any 
 Payment in that fort of money, they tell ye, 'twas a great while ago that any 
 Silver Roupie was coin'd j that they are worth lefs than thoft which are new, or 
 but lately coin'd ; for that by paffing through many hands they wear away, and 
 become lighter. And therefore when you make any bargain, you muft always 
 agree to be paid in Roupies Cha-jenni, that is 3 in new Silver j otherwise, they wifl 
 
24 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Part EL 
 
 pay you in Rcupies coin'd fome fifteen or twenty years ago, and upward ; where- 
 by you will lofe four in the hundred. For they will have one fourth, or at leaft 
 one eighth per Cent, allow'd for thofe that were coin'd but two years before : So 
 that the poor people that cannot read the year wherein the Roupies were coined, 
 are fubjecl to be cheated ; for they will always abate a Pecha or half a Pecha upon 
 a Roupie, or three or fourCori's upon a Pecha. 
 
 As for counterfeit Silver, there is very little among them. If you receive one 
 falfe Roupie in a Bagg from any particular perfon, 'tis better to cut it to pieces, 
 and lofe it, than to (peak of it ; for if it mould come to be known, there might 
 be danger in it. For you are commanded by the King's Law to return the Bagg 
 where you received it ; and to return it from one to another, till you can find out 
 the Counterfeiter 5 who, if he be apprehended, is only fentenc'd to lofe his hand. 
 If the Counterfeiter cannot be found, and that it be thought that he who paid 
 the Money is not guilty, he is acquitted upon fome fmall amercement. This brings 
 great profit to the Changers. For when there is any Summ of Money received 
 or paid, the Merchants caufe him to look it over, and for their pains, they have 
 one fixteenth of a Roupie in the hundred. 
 
 As for the Money which is paid out of the Sarquet, or King's Exchequer, there 
 is never any found that is counterfeit : For all the Money that is carried in thither, 
 is exactly view'd by the King's Bankers : The Great Lords have alfo their par- 
 ticular Bankers. Before they put up the Money into the Treafury, they throw 
 it into a great Charcoal-fire, and when the Roupies are red-hot, they quench the 
 fire, by throwing water upon it ; and then take out the Money. If there be any 
 Piece that is white, or that has the leaft mark of ATloy, it is prefently cut in 
 pieces. As often as thefe Roupies are carried into the Treafury, they mark the 
 Pieces with a Puncheon, which makes an hole, but not quite through ; and there 
 are fome Pieces that have (even or eight holes made in that manner, to mew that 
 they have been fo many times in the Exchequer. They are all put, a thoufand 
 Pieces together, in a bagg, feal'd with the Seal of the great Treafurer j and 
 the number of years fuperfcrib'd, fince they were coin'd. And here you are to 
 take notice, whence the Treafurers profit arifes, as well that of the King's Trea- 
 furer, as that of the particular Treasurers of the Great Lords of the Kingdom. 
 When there is any bargain made, they agree for new Roupies coin'd the fame 
 year: but when they come to receive the payment, the Treafurers will make it 
 in old Roupies, wherein there is a lofs of fix per Cent. So that if thev will have 
 new Silver, the Merchants muft compound with the Treafurer. In my fift Voy- 
 age, I went to vifit Cha-EQ-Kan according to my promife, to let him have the 
 firft fight of what I brought along with me. So that as foon as I arrived atS#- 
 ratt y I lent him word ; and received his Orders to meet him at Chonpart, a City 
 in the Province of Decan, to which he had laid Siege. Coming to him, in a lit- 
 tle time, and a few words, I fold him the greateft part of what I had brought along 
 with me out of Europe : And he told me that he expe&ed every day, that Money 
 mould be fent him from Suratt to pay the Army , and to pay me alfo at the fame 
 time for what he had bought of me. I could not imagin however, that fo great a 
 Prince as he, that commanded fo great an Army, had not ftore of Money by him j 
 but rather conjeftur'd, that he had an intention to make me fome abatement, up- 
 on thofe Pieces which he would put upon me in payment, as he had ferv'd me be- 
 fore. It fell out, as I farefaw. But for Provifions for my felf, my Men, and my 
 Horfes, he took fuch order, that there was great plenty brought nte, night and 
 morning, and for the moft part he fent for me my felf, to his own Table. Ten or 
 twelve days thus paft away, and not a word of the Money that I expected : So 
 that being refolv'd to take my leave of him, I went to his Tent. He appeared to 
 be fomewhat l'urpriz'd, and looking upon me with a frowning-brow } wherefore 
 will you be gone, laid he, before you are paid ? or who d'you think, fhall pay 
 you afterwards,if you go away before you receive your Money? Upon thefe words, 
 with a countenance as ftern as his, my King, replied I, will fee me paid. For his 
 goodnefs is fuch, that he caufes all his Subjects to be paid, that have not received 
 fatisfaction for fuch Goods as they fell in forreign Countries. And what courfe 
 will he take, anfwer'd he in a great choler : with two or three ftout Men of War, 
 {aid I, which he will fend either to the Port of Suratt, or toward the Coafts to 
 
 wait 
 
Book I Travels in India. 2^ 
 
 wait for the Ships that come from Mocca. He feemed to be netled at that reply, 
 but not daring to give any more way to his choler, he ordered his Treafurer im- 
 mediately to give me a Letter of Exchange to Aurcngabad. I was the more 
 glad of that, becaufe it was a place through which I was to pafs in my way to 
 Golcanda ; beiides that, it would fpare me the carriage and the hazards of my 
 Money. The next day I had my Bill of Exchange, and took leave of the Prince, 
 who was nothing difpleafed, but told me, that if I return'd to the Indies^ I fhould 
 not fail to come and fee him, which I did in my fixt and Iaft Voyage. When I 
 came to Sitr'atl, he was at Bengala, where I fold him all the reft of my Goods that 
 I could not put off either to the King of Perfia, or the Great Mogul. 
 
 But to return to the payment of my Money, I was no fooner arrived at Aureng- 
 gabat, but I went to find the great Treafurer ; who no fooner (aw me, but he told 
 me, he knew wherefore I came 5 that he had received Letters of advice three 
 days before, and that he had already taken the Money out of the Treafury to pay 
 me. When he had brought me all the Baggs, I caufed my Banker to open them, 
 who faw them to be Roupies, by which I was to lofe two in the hundred. Upon 
 that I thank'd the Treafurer very heartily, telling him, I underftood no fuch deal- 
 ing, and that I would fend and complain of him to Cha-Ejt-Kam ; and declare 
 to him, that he mould either give order that I mould be paid in new Silver, or 
 elfe let me have my Goods again, which I prefently did. But not receiving an 
 anfwer fo foon as I knew I might have done, I went to the Treafurer, and told 
 him, I would go my felf, and fetch away my Goods. I believe he had received or- 
 der what to do; for feeing I was refolved to go; he told me he was very unwilling 
 I mould put my felf to fo much trouble, and that it .would be better for us to agree 
 among our felves. After many contefts about the two in the hundred, which he 
 would have made me lofe, I was contented to abate one, and had loft the other, 
 had I not happily met with a Banker who wanted Silver, and had a Bill of Ex- 
 change to pay at GoUondu fo that he was glad to make ufe of mine, and gave 
 me a Bill to be paid at Golconda, being my full Summ, at fifteen days fight. 
 
 The Changers to try their Silver, make ufe of thirteen little pieces, one half 
 Copper, and the other Silver, which are their Sayes. 
 
 2 E' Tfiefe 
 
26 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Part n. 
 
 Thefe thirteen pieces differing all in goodnefs, they never make ufe of them, 
 but when any queftion arifes concerning a final! quantity of Silver, or of any 
 wrought Silver. For they refine all their great quantities. All that kind of Silver 
 is bought by the weight which they call Tolla, which weighs nine Deneers, and 
 eight Grains, or 32 Val's ; 81 Val's, making an Ounce : So that an hundred Tolla's 
 make 38 Ounces, 21 Deneers, and 8 Grains. 
 
 See here the differences of the thirteen Goodness of Silver. 
 
 TH E firft, which is the loweft in goodnefs, they take at fifteen Pecha's to the 
 Tolla, which makes of our Money nine Sous, two Deneers. 
 The fecond, at eighteen Pecha's, which make ten Sous, two Deneers. 
 The third, at ten Pecha's, which make twelve Sous, fix Deneers. 
 The fourth, at thirteen Pecha's, which make fourteen Sous, fix Deneers. 
 The fift, at fixteen Pecha's, which make fifteen Sous, ten Deneers. 
 The fixt, at nineteen Pecha's., which make feventeen Sous, fix Deneers. 
 The feventh, at thirty-three Pecha's, which make nineteen Sous, two De- 
 neers. 
 
 The eighth, at thirty- five Pecha's, which make twenty Sous, ten Deneers. 
 The ninth, at thirty-eight Pecha's., which make twenty-two Sous, fix De- 
 neers. 
 
 The tenth, at forty Pecha's, which make twenty-four Sous, two Deneers. 
 The eleventh, at forty-three Pecha's, which make twenty-five Sous, ten De- 
 neers. 
 
 The twelfth, at forty-fix Pecha's, which make twenty-feven Sous, fix Deneers. 
 The thirteenth., at forty-nine Pecha's, which make nineteen Sous, two De- 
 neers. 
 
 Here it will not be amifs to give you an hint, how far the cunning extends, not 
 only of the Cheraffs or Changers, but of all the Indians in general j and it (hall 
 fuffice to give you one example, which is very particular, and of which our 
 Europeans make no account : Which is this ; that of all the Gold, which re- 
 mains upon the ftone upon which they make the ElTay, and of which we make no 
 reckoning, they are fo far from lofing the leaft atome of that fmall matter, that 
 they fetch it all off, by means of a Ball made half of Black-pitch, and half of 
 Soft-wax, with which they rub the ftone that carries the Gold j at the end of 
 fome years the Ball will mine, and then they get out all the Gold that fticks to it. 
 This Ball is about the bignefs of one of our Tennis-Balls ; and the Stone is fuch 
 a on»e as our Goldfmiths generally ufe. 
 
 Thus much of the Cuftom-houfes and Money currant among the Indians. It 
 remains to fpeak of their manner of Exchange. 
 
 As all the Goods which are made in the Empire of the Great Mogul!, and 
 fome part of the Kingdoms of Golconda and Vifapour are brought to Suratt to be 
 tranfported into feveral parts of Apa and Europe j the Merchants, when they go 
 from Sm at to buy Commodities in the feveral Cities where they are made, as 
 at Labor, Agra, Amadabat, Seronge, Brampour, Daca, Patna, Banarou 3 Golconda, 
 Decan, Vifapour, and Dultabat, take up Money at Swat, and are difcharg'd at the 
 places where they go, by giving kind for kind. But when it happens that the 
 Merchant is fhort of Money in thofe places, and that there is a neceffity for him 
 to take up Money to compleat his Markets, he rauft then return it at Suratt with- 
 in two Months, paying monthly for the Change. 
 
 From Labor to Suratt the Exchange goes at fix and a quarter per Cent, 
 
 From Amadabat, from one, to one and an half. 
 
 From Seronga 3 at three. 
 
 From Brampour, from two and an half, to three. 
 
 From Daca, at ten. 
 From Banarou, at fix. 
 
 From the three laft places they make their Bills ot Exchange only to Agra 
 
 and 
 
Book I. 
 
 Travels in I 
 
 ND I A. 
 
 27 
 
 and at Agra they make others for Suratt } the whole at the fame price as I have 
 fet down. 
 
 From Golconda, from four to five. 
 
 And for Goa the fame. 
 
 From Decan at three. 
 
 From Vifapour at three. 
 
 From Dultabat, from one to one and an half. 
 
 Some years the Exchange rifes from one to two per Cent, by reafon of certain 
 Raja's or petty Vaffal Princes that difturb Trade, every one pretending that the 
 Merchandizes ought to pafs through his Countrey, and pay Toll. There are two 
 particularly between Agra and Amadabatt, the one called the Raja, of Antivar, 
 and the other the Raja of Bergam, who very much moleft the Merchants for 
 this very caufe. But you may avoid palling through the Territories of thefe Prin- 
 ces, taking another road from Agra to Suratt, thorough Seronge and Brampop.r. 
 But they are fertil Lands, divided with feveral Rivers, without Bridges or Boats, 
 and it is impoffible to go that way, till two months after the rains are fallen, 
 Which is the reafon that thofe Merchants who muft be at Suratt when the feafon 
 permits them to take the Sea, are forc'd to pafs through the Territories of thefe 
 two Raja's, becaufe they can pafs that way at all times, even in the time that the 
 rains fall, which only knit and harden the Sand. 
 
 Nor are you to wonder that the Exchange runs fo high ; for they that truft out 
 their Money, run the hazard, by obligation, of lofing their Money,, if the Mer- 
 chants mould be robb'd. 
 
 When vou come to Suratt to Embarque, there is Money enough. For it is the 
 greaieft Tade of the Grandees of the Indies to venture their Money by Sea 
 from thence for Ormus, Balfara, and Mocca ; nay even as far as Bantam 3 Acicr., 
 and the Philippine Iflands. For Mocca and Balfira, the change runs from 22 to 
 24 per Cent. And to Ormus, from 16 to 20. And to the other places which I have 
 named, the change runs proportionable to the diftance. 
 
 I have but one word to fay of their Weights and Meafures ; I have given you 
 in the Margin the rift part of an Ell of Agra, and the fourth part of an El|l of 
 Amadabat and Suratt. As for their Weights, the Men is generally 69 Pound, and 
 the Pound 16 Ounces. But the Men which they weigh t their Indico withal, is 
 bt 3 Pound. At Suratt they talk of a Ssrre, which is one and three fourths of 
 a Pound, and the Pound is 16 Ounces. 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 Of their Carriages, and the manner of Travelling in India. 
 
 BEfore we fet forward upon the road, it will be convenient to fpeak of their 
 Carriages, and the manner of travelling in India j which, in my opinion, is 
 more commodious than any thing that has been invented for eafe in France or 
 Italy. Quite otherwife it is in Perfia, where they neither make ule of Afies, 
 Mules, or Horfes, but tranfport all their Wares to the Indies upon Oxen, or in 
 Wains, their Countreys being fo near to one another. If any Merchant carries an 
 Horfe out of Perfia, 'tis only for fhew, or to walk in his hand, or to fell to fome 
 Indian Prince. 
 
 They will lay upon an Oxes back 300, or 3^0 pound weight. And it is a won- 
 derful thing to fee ten or twelve thoufand Oxen at a time all laden with Rice, 
 Corn and Salt, in fuch places where they exchange thefe Commodities : Carrying 
 Corn where only Rice grows, Rice where only Corn grows, and Salt where there 
 is none at all. They make ufe of Camels fometimes., but very rarely, they being 
 particularly appointed to carry the luggage of great Perfona^es. When the fea- 
 fon requires haft, and that they would fpeedily conveigh their Merchandize to 
 Suratt to (hip them off, they load them upon Oxen, and not in Wains. And in re- 
 gard that the Territories of the Great Mogul are very well manur'd, the Fields 
 
 * E 2 are 
 
28 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Part H. 
 
 are fenc'd with very good Ditches ; and to every Fielfl there belongs a Pond to 
 preierve the water. There is this great inconvenience for Travellers that when 
 they meet with thefe numerous Caravans in ftreight places, they are forc'd to 
 ftay two or three days till they are all paft by. They that drive thefe Oxen, follow 
 no other Calling as long as they live, nor do they dwell in houfes ; yet they carry 
 their Wives and Children along with them. There are fome among them that have 
 an hundred Oxen of their own, others more or left ; and they have always one, 
 who is their Chief, that takes as much ftate as a Prince, and has his Chain of Pearl 
 hanging about his neck. When the Caravan that carries the Corn, and that which 
 carries the Salt happen to meet, rather than yield the road, they frequently enter 
 into very bloody Difputes. The Great Mogptll confidering one day that thefe 
 quarrels were very prejudicial to Trade, and the tranfportation of neeefiary Pro- 
 vifions from place to place, fent for the two Chiefs of the Caravan, and after he 
 had exhorted them, for the common good and their own intereft, to live quietly 
 together, and not to quarrel and fight when they met, gave to each of them a 
 Leek, or an hundred thoufand Roupies, and a Chain of Pearl. 
 
 That the Reader may the better underftand the manner of travelling in the In- 
 dies t \\e is to take notice,that among the Idolaters of that Countrey there are four 
 Tribes, which are called Manaris, each of which may confiftof an hundred thou- 
 fand Souls. Thefe people live always in Tents, and live only upon the tranfporting 
 of Merchandize from Countrey to Countrey. The firft of thefe Tribes carry no- 
 thing but Corn, the fecond Rice, the third Pulfe, and the fourth Salt, which they 
 fetch from Suratt, and all along from as far as Cape-Camorin. Thefe Tribes are 
 alfo diftinguifhed in this manner : Their Priefts, of whom I mail fpeak in another 
 place, mark the forheads of the firft, with a red-Gum, about the bredth of a 
 Crown 5 and then they draw a ftreak all the length of his nofe, fticking grains of 
 Wheat upon it, fometimes ten, and fometimes twelve. Thofe of the fecond Tribe 
 are mark'd with yellow-Gum in the fame place, with grains of Rice. Thofe of 
 the third are mark'd with a grey-Gum, down to the moulders, and grains of 
 Millet. Thofe of the fourth Tribe carry tied about their necks a Bagg, with a 
 great lump of Salt in it, weighing fometimes eight or ten pounds, (Tor the hea- 
 vier it is, the more they glory in carrying it ; ) and with this Bagg they thump 
 their ftomacks, as a fign of repentance every morning before they fay their Pray- 
 ers. They have all in general a little line or twift, like a Scarf, about their necks, 
 at the end whereof hangs a little Silver-box, like a Relique-box, wherein they 
 enclofe a little fuperftitious writing which their Priefts give them ; they tie them 
 alfo about their Oxen and other Cattel, which are bred in their Herds, for which 
 they have a particular affection, and love them as tenderly as children, efpecially 
 if they have no children of their ow r n. Their Women wear only a piece of Ca- 
 licut white or painted, fome fix or five times doubled from their wafts down- 
 ward. From their wafts upward they cut their flefh into feveral forms of 
 Flowers, as they do that apply Cupping-glafTes, which they paint in various 
 colours with the juice of Grapes, that their skin feems to be all made of Flowers. 
 
 Every morning, while the men load the Eeafts, and that the Women fold up the 
 tents, the Priefts that follow them, fet up in the moft convenient place of the 
 Plain where they lodg'd a certain Idol in the form of a Serpent in wreaths, upon 
 a Perch fix or feven foot high ; to which they come all in files to wbrfhip, their 
 Women going three times about. After the Ceremony is over, the Priefts take 
 care of the Idol, and load it upon an Ox particularly appointed for that pur- 
 pofe. 
 
 The Caravan of Waggons feldom exceeds the number of an hundred or two 
 hundred at moft. Every Waggon is drawn by ten or twelve Oxen ; and attended 
 by four Souldiers, which the perfon that owes the Merchandize is oblig'd to pay. 
 Two of them march upon each fide of the Waggon, over which there are two 
 Ropes thrown a-crofs, the ends whereof they hold in their hands, to the end, that 
 if the Waggon come to lean on one-fide in ill-way, the two Souldiers on the 
 other fide may keep it from over-turning, by pulling the Ropes with all their 
 ftrength. 
 
 All the Waggons that come to Suratt, either from slgra, or any other parts 
 of the Empire, and which return through slgra, or fanabatt, are bound to carry 
 
 back 
 
Book I 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 29 
 
 Ba'Ck the Lime that come$from Barocba, which, after it is temper'd, and laid on, 
 becomes as hard as Marble. 
 
 I come now to the manner of travelling in India, to which purpofe they make 
 ufe of Oxen inftead of Horfes, and there are fome, whofe pace is as eaiy as the 
 amble of our Hackneys. But you muft take a care, when you either buy or hire 
 an Ox to ride upon, that the horns be not above a foot in length. For if they be 
 longer, when the flies begin to fting, he will chafe, and tols back his horns, and 
 frrike them into the ftomack of the Rider, as oftentimes it has hapned. Thefe 
 Oxen are rid like our Horles, and inftead of Snaffles or Bitts, they have only a 
 Rope drawn through the mufcly part of the muzzle or noftrils. In firm ground 
 where there are no ftones, they never fhooe their Oxen ; but only in rough pla- 
 ces, where not only the ftones b,ut the heat will waft and chop the hoof. Where- 
 as in Eafoft we tie our Oxen by the horns, the Indians only put a thick trufs upon 
 their necks, that keeps faft a Cofler of Leather four fingers broad, which they 
 have nothing to do but to put about their necks when they faften them to the 
 Waggon. 
 
 They ufe alfo for Travel little Coaches, but very light, that will hold two 
 perions ; but generally they ride alone for more eafe, carrying only their ne 7 
 cefiary Cloak-Bags along with them ; with a fmall Velfel of Wine, and a fmall 
 quantity of Provihons, for which there is a proper place under the Coach, 
 where ihey tye the two Oxen. Thefe Coaches have their Curtains and Seats 
 like ours, yet are not hung : But in my laft Travels I caus'd one to be made after 
 our manner; and the two Oxen that drew it, coft me near upon fix-hundred 
 Roupies. Nor is the Reader to wonder at the price ; for there are fome of 
 thefe Oxen that are very ftrong, and that will travel upon the trot twelve or 
 fifteen leagues a-day for fixty days together. When they have gone half the 
 days journey, they give them two or three Balls,as big as one of our two-penny- 
 loaves, of Wheat kneaded up with butter and black-fugar. The hire of a Coach 
 comes to a Roupie a-day more or lefs. From Suratt to ^4gra is forty days jour- 
 ney, and you pay for the whole journey from forty to forty-five Roupies. From 
 Swatt to Golconda, being almoft the fame diftance, the fame price is obfervedj 
 and by the fame proportion you may travel over all the Indies. 
 
 They who have more to fpend, for their own eafe make ufe of a Pallanqmn, 
 wherein they travel very commodioufiy. This is a fort of little Couch ffx or fe- 
 ven foot long, and three broad, with balifters round about it. A fort of Cane^ 
 call'd Bambouc, which they bend like an Arch, fuftains the covering of the Pal- 
 lancjuin, which is either of Satin orCloath of Gold ; and when the Sun lies up- 
 on one fide, a Slave that goes by the fide, takes care to pull down the covering. 
 Another Slave carries at the end of a long ftick a kind of Target of Ofier, cover- 
 ed over with fome gentile ftuif, to preferve the perfon that is in the Pallanquin 
 from the heat of the Sun, when he turns and lies upon his face. The two ends of 
 the Bamboo are faftned on both fides to the body of the Pallanquin between two 
 fticks join'd together like a Saltir or St. Andrew s-crofs y every one of thofe two 
 fticks being five or fix foot long. There are fome of thefe Bamboucs that coft 
 two-hundred Crowns ; I my felf have paid an hundred and twenty. Three men 
 for the moft part apply themfelves to each of thefe two ends to carry the Pal- 
 lanqttin upon their fhoulders ; fome on the right,and fome on the left,and they go 
 fwifter than our Sedan-men, and with a much more eafy pace, as being that which 
 they pra&ice from their youth. You give to every one for all things not above 
 four Roupies a Month ; but it ftands you in above five if the journey be long, and 
 exceed fixty days labour. ■ 
 
 Whether it be in Coach, or Pallancjuin, he that will travel honourably in the 
 Indies^ muft take along with him twenty or thirty armed men, with Bows and 
 Arrows fome, others with Mufquets ; and they have the fame rate with thofe 
 that carry the Pallanquin. Sometimes for more magnificence they carry a Ban- 
 ner, as the Enghjh and Hollanders do, for the honour of their Companies. 
 Thefe Souldiers are not only for fhew, but they watch for your defence, keeping 
 Centinels, and relieving one another, and are very ftudious to give content. For 
 you muft know, that in the Towns where you take them into fervice, they have 
 a Chieftain, that is refponfible for their fidelity, who for his good word has two 
 Roupies a-piece of every one, *^ 
 
30 Travels in India. Part II. 
 
 In the great Villages there is generally a Mabumetantthat commands, of whom 
 you may buy Mutton, Pullets, or Pidgeons. But where there live none but Ba- 
 nians, there is nothing but Flower, Rice, Herbs and Milk-meats to be had. 
 
 The great heats in India enforcing the Travellers, that are not accuftomed to 
 them, to travel by night, and reft in the day-time; when they come into any 
 fortified Towns, they muft be gone before Sun-fet, if they intend to travel that 
 night. For night coming on, and the Gates being (hut, the Commander of the 
 place, who is to anfwer for all the Robberies that are committed within his Ju- 
 rifdiction, will let no perlbn ftir forth, telling them that it is the King's order, to 
 which he muft be obedient. When I came to any of thofe Towns, I bought my 
 Provisions, and went out again in good time, and ftaid in the Field under Ibme 
 Tree, in the frefh air, till it was time to fet forward. 
 
 They meafure the diftances of places in India by (7oj,and Coftes. A Cos is about 
 four of our common leagues, and a Cofte one league. It is now time to travel 
 from Surat for Agra, and fanabat, and to obferve what is molt remarkable upon 
 the Road. 
 
 \ CHAP. IV. 
 
 The Road from Surat to Agra, through Erampour Seronge. 
 
 I Am no lefs well acquainted with all the principal Roads that lead to the chief 
 Cities of India, than thofe of Turkey and Perjia for in fix times that I have 
 travell'd from Paris to Ifpaban, I have gone twice for one from Ifpaban to Agra, 
 and many other places of the Great Mogul's Empire. Eut it would be tirefome to 
 the Reader to carry him more than once the fame way, on purpofe to make a 
 relation of every particular journey,and the accidents that accompany them : And 
 therefore it will fuffice to give an exact defcription cf the Roads, without parti- 
 cularizing the diftinct times that I went. 
 
 There are but two Roads from Surat to Agra, one through Brampour and Se- 
 ronge, the other through Amadabat. The firl'c (ball be the Subjeft of this Chap- 
 ter. 
 
 From Surat to Barnoly, coftes 
 
 Barnoly is a great Borough-Town, where you are to ford a great River j and 
 this firft days journey you crofs a mixt Countrey, part Wood, part through Fields 
 of Wheat and Rice. 
 
 From Barnoly to Babor, coftes. Io 
 Babor is alfo a large Village upon a Lake, about a league in compafs. Upon 
 the fide whereof is to be feen a good fubflantial Fortrefs j though there be no 
 ufe made of it. Three quarters of a league on this fide the Village -you ford a 
 fmall River, though not without great difficulty, by reafon of the Rocks and 
 Stones that hazard the over-turning of the Coach. This fecond days-journey 
 you travel almoft altogether through Woods. 
 
 From Balor to Kerkoa, or as it is call'd at this day, Carvanfera de la Begum, 
 coftes. y 
 This Carvanfera or Inn is very large and commodious ; being built out of Cha- 
 rity by Begum-fabeb the Daughter of Cba-jehan. For formerly the journey from 
 Balor to Navapoura was too great : And this place being upon the Frontiers of 
 thofe Raja's that fometimes will not acknowledg the Great Mogul, whole VjuTals 
 they are, there was no Caravan that paft by which was not abufed ■, befides that 
 it is a wooddy-Countrey. Between Carvanfra and Navapoura you ford a Ri- 
 ver } as alfo another very neer to Navapoura. 
 
 From Kerkoa to Navapoura, coftes. 7y 
 Navapoura is a great Town full of Weavers ; but Rice is the greateft Com- 
 modity of that place. There runs a River through the Countrey, which makes 
 it very fruitful, and waters the Rice, that requires moifture. All the Rice which 
 grows i.i this Countrey has one peculiar quality, that makes it more particularly 
 
 efteem'd. 
 
Book I. 
 
 Travels 171 India. 
 
 efteem'd. The grain of it is lefs by one half, than the grain of the common 
 Rice ; and when it is boil'd, no fnow is whiter $ but befides all that, it fmells of 
 Musk ; and all the Grandees of the Indians eat no other. When they would 
 make an acceptable Prefent to any one in Perfa, they fend him a Hick of this 
 Rice. This River which paffes by Kerkoa and thofe other places I have men- 
 tion'd, empties it felf into the River of Surat. 
 
 From Navapoura to Nafarbar, coftes. 9 
 From Nafarbar to Dol-medan, coftes. 74 
 From Dol-medan to Senquera, coftes. 7 
 From Senquera to Tallener, coftes. 10 
 At Tallener you are to pafs the River, which riins to Barocbe 3 where it is very 
 large, and empties it felf into the Golf of Cdmbaya. 
 
 From Tallener to C bonfire, coftes. 1 j 
 
 From Coupre to Senqudis, coftes. 13 
 From Senquelis to Nabir 3 coftes. 10 
 From Nabir to Badelpoura, coftes. 9 
 At Badelpoura it is, where the loaded Waggons pay the duties of Brampour ; 
 but the Waggons that carry nothing but Pafiengers, pay nothing. 
 
 From Badelponra to Brampour, coftes j 
 Brampour is a great City, very much ruin'd^ the Houfes being for the molt 
 part thatch'd with ftraw. There is alfo a great Caftle in the midft of the City, 
 where the Governour lies ; the Government of this Province is a very confidera- 
 ble command ; and is only conferr'd upon the Son or Unckle of the King. And 
 Aureng-z,eb, the prefent King, was a long^ time Governour of this Province in the 
 Reign of his Father. But fince they came to underftand the ftrehgth of the Pro- 
 vince of Bengala, Which formerly bore the Title of a Kingdom, that Province is 
 now the moft confiderable in all the Mogul's Countrey. There is a great Trade 
 in this City, and as well in Brampore, as over , all the Province, there is made a 
 prodigious quantity of Calicuts very clear and white, which are tranfported into 
 Pc-rfia, Turkey and Mufeovia, Poland, Arabia, to Grand Cairo, and other places. 
 There are fome which are painted with feveral colours, with flowers, of which 
 the Women make Veils and Scarfs ; the fame Calicuts ferve for Coverlets of 
 Beds_, and for Handkerchiefs. There is another fort of Linnen which they never 
 dye, with a ftripe or two of Gold or Silver quite through the piece, and at each 
 end from the bredth of one inch to twelve or fifteen, in fome more, in fome lefs , 
 they fix a tilTue of Gold, Silver, and Silk , intermix'd with Flowers, whereof 
 there is no wrong-fide, both fides being as fair the one as the other. If thefe 
 pieces, Which they carry into Poland, where they have a vaft utterance, want at 
 each end three or four inches at the leaft of Gold or Silver ; or if that Gold or 
 Silver become tarnifh'd in being carried by Sea from Surat to Ormus, and from 
 Trebiz,an to Mavgala, or any other parts upon the Black-Sea, the Merchant fhall 
 have much ado to put them off without great lofs.He muft take care that his goods 
 be packt up in good Bales, that no wet may get in j which for fo long a Voyage 
 requires great care and trouble. Some of thefe Linnens are made purpofely for 
 Swathbands or Shafhes, and thofe pieces are call'd Ornis. They contain from 
 1 ^ to 20 Ells ; and coft from an hunderd to an hunderd and fifty Roupies, the leaft 
 not being under ten or twelve ells. Thofe that are not above two ells long are worn 
 by the Ladies of Quality for Veils and Scarfs, of which there is a vaft quantity ven- 
 ded in Perjia and Turkey. They make at Brampour alfo other forts of Cotton-Linnenj 
 for indeed there is no Province in all the Indies which more abounds in Cotton, 
 
 When you leave the City of Brampoure, you muft pafs another River, befides 
 that which I have mention'd already. There is no Bridge, and therefore when the 
 water is low, you ford it j when the rains fall, there are Boats attending. 
 
 From Surat to Brampour it is 132 Coftes ; and thefe Coftes are very more in the 
 Indies 5 for you may travel one of them in a Coach in lefs than an hour. 
 
 I remember a ftrange tumult at Brampoure } in the year 1641, when I re- 
 turned from Agra to Surat ; the caufe whereof was thus, in fhort : The 
 Governour of the Province, who was the King's Nephew by the Mother's-fide, 
 had among his Pages a young Boy that was very beautiful, and of a very good 
 Family, who had a Brother in the City that liv'd as a Dervich 5 and for whom 
 
 all 
 
Travels in India. Part II. 
 
 all the Town had a very great veneration. One day the Governour, being alone in 
 his Chamber, did all that lay in his power, by vertueof Gifts and Carefies,to ha.ve 
 had the ufe of his Body ; but the Bov detefting his abominable purpofe, made his 
 efcape from him,and came and told his Brother. The Dervicb, without deliberating 
 what Councel he had to give his younger Brother, gave him a Sword, fuch a 
 one as he might eafily hide under his Garment ; and told him, that if the 
 Governour urg'd him any more, that he fhould make a mew of complying 
 With him, but that when he went about to do the fact, he mould be lure to 
 run him into the Guts- The Governour, who knew nothing of what the Page 
 had reveal'd to his Brother, ceus'd not every day to court him to confent to 
 his infamous luft; and being one day alone with him in a i nail Apartment of 
 a Banquetting-Houie, at the lower end of his Garden, he lent for his Page to 
 fan him, and to keep off the Flies, after the fafhion of the Country ; for it was 
 about noon, when every one goes to fleep. Then did the Governour begin 
 again to prefe the young Page ; and finding that he made no reiiitance, he 
 thought he fhould fuddenly accomplifh his defign. But the Page feeing him 
 ready to commit the act, frab'd him three times into the Belly, before he 
 could open his mouth to cry out for help. That done, the. Page went out 
 of the Palace, without any difturbance In his countenance; fo that the Guards 
 believ'd that the Governour had fent him out upon lome errand. The Der- 
 rick underftanding by his Brother what had pafs'd, to fave him from the fury 
 of the people, and to dilcover the Infamy of the Governour, caus'd the reft of 
 the Bcrvichs his Companions, to take the Banners of Mahomet , that were; 
 planted round the Mofyuee ; and at the fame time with loud cries encourag'd 
 all the reft of the Dervicbs, Faquirs, and others that were good Mahumetans, 
 to follow him. In left than an hours time he had got together an infinite 
 multitude of the Rabble, and the Dtrvich marching at the head of them,' they 
 made directly to the Palace, crying out with all their might, Let us dye for 
 Mahomet, or let us have that infamous perfon deliuerd up into our hands, to the 
 end the Dogs may eat him after his death, not being worthy to be enter r 'd among the 
 Muffclmen. The Guard of the Palace was not in a condition to refift fo great 
 a Multitude, fo that they muft have been forced to have yeilded to their fury, 
 had not the Deroga of the Town, and feme five or fix Lords, fcund a way 
 to make themfelves to be heard, and to appeafe them, by reprefenting to them, 
 that they ought to have fome refpedt to the Nephew of the King ; by 
 that means obliging them to retire. That night the Body of the Governour* 
 was fent to slgra, with his Haram, and Cha-jehan, who then reign'd, being 
 jnform'd of the accident, was not much troubl'd, becaule he is Heir to all the 
 goods of his Subjects ; and at the fame time he beftow'd upon the Page a 
 fmall Government in the Province of Bengala. p 
 
 From Br amp our to Piombi-fera, coftes j 
 Before we go any farther, you muft take notice, that where-ever you meet 
 with the word Sera, it fignifies a great Enclofure of Walls and Hedges, within 
 which are about fifty or fixty Huts, cover d over with Straw. There are Ibme 
 men and women that there put to fale Flower, Rice, Butter, and Herbs, and 
 make it their bufinefs to bake Bread and boil Rice. If there be any Mahu- 
 metan in that place, he will go to the City, and buy a little piece of Mus- 
 ton, or a Fowl ; and thofe that fell Victuals to the Travellers, always cleanfc 
 the Hut which they take up, and put into it a little Bed with girths, to lay 
 a Mattrefs or Qyilt upon, which the Travellers carry along with them. 
 
 From Piombi-fera to Pander, coftes 3 
 
 From Pander to BalkJ-fera, coftes 6 
 
 From Balkj-fera to Nevilkt-fera, coftes 5 
 
 From Nevilki-fera to Confemba, coftes 5 
 
 From Confemba to Chempore, coftes 3 
 
 From Chempore to Charava, coftes 8 
 
 From Charava to Bich-ola, coftes 8 
 
 From Bich-ola to Andy, coftes 4 
 
 At uindy you muft pafs a River that falls into Ganges, between Banarou and 
 
 Patna, 
 
 From 
 
Book I. 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 33 
 
 From Andi to Onquenas, coftes 4 
 
 From Onquenas to Tiquery, coftes j 
 
 From Tiquery to Totl-meden, coftes 4 
 
 From Tool-meden to Nova-fera, coftes ^ 
 
 From Nova-fera to Ichavour, coftes 4 
 
 From Ichavour to Signor, coftes j 
 
 From S/gw to Chekaipour, coftes - 3 
 
 From Chekaipour to Dour-ay, coftes 3 
 
 From Dour-ay to Afer-kaira, coftes 3 
 
 From Afer-kaira to /or, coftes 3 
 
 From Te/or to San-kaira, coftes 3 
 
 From San-kaira to Seronge, coftes . 12, 
 
 Seronge is a great City, the moft part of the Inhabitants whereof are Banian 
 Merchants, and Handicraft- trades-men from Father to Son, which is the reafon 
 that there are in this City feveral Houfes of Stone and Brick. There is alfo a 
 great Trade for all forts of painted Calicuts, which are called Chitcs, which is the 
 cloathing of all the meaner fort of people both in Perfta and Turkey : Of which 
 in other Countreys alfo they make ufe, for Coverlets for Beds, and Table-napkins. 
 They make the fame fort of Calicuts in other Countreys as well as at Stronge 3 
 but the colours are not fo lively ■, befides, that they wear out with often warn- 
 ing. Whereas thofe that are made at Seronge, the more you warn them the 
 fairer the colours fhew. There runs a River by the Citv , the water whereof has 
 that vertue, that it gives that beauty and livelinefs to the colours. And all the 
 while the rains fall, the Workmen will make thefe prints upon their Cottons, ac- 
 cording to the Patterns which the Forreign Merchants give them ; for when the 
 waters are ceas'd, the water is the thicker ; and the oftener they dip their Cali- 
 cuts, the better the colours hold. 
 
 There is alfo made at Seronge another fort of Calicut, which is fo fine, that when, 
 a man puts it on, bis skin mail appear through it, as if he were naked. The Mer- 
 chants are not permitted to tranfport it. For the Governour fends it all to the Se- 
 raglio of the Great Mogul, and to the principal Lords of the Court. Of this, 
 the Sultaneffes, and great Noblemen's Wives make them Shifts and Garments in 
 hot- weather : And the King and the Lords take great pleafure to behold them in 
 thofe Shifts, and to fee them Dance with nothing elfe upon their Bodies. 
 
 From Brampore to Seronge is an hundred and one coftes, which are longer than 
 thofe from Surat to Brampore ; for the Coach is a full hour, and fbmetimes five 
 quarters, going one of thefe coftes. In thefe hundred leagues of the Countrey 
 you travel whole days journeys along by moft fertil Fields of Corn and Rice, be- 
 ing lovely Champaign, where you meet with very little Wood ; and from Seronge 
 to Agra, the Countrey is much of the fame nature : And becaufe the Villages 
 lye thick together, your journey is the more pleafant ; befides, that you may reft 
 
 when you pleafe. 
 
 From Seronge to Madalkj-fera, coftes. 6 t 
 
 From Madalkj-fera to Poulkj-fera, coftes. Z 
 
 From Poulkj-fera to K afar ikj-f era, coftes. 3 
 
 From Kajarikj-fera to Chadolki-fera, coftes. 6 
 
 From Chadolkj-fera to Gallabas, coftes. 6 
 
 Callabas is a great Town, which was formerly the Refidence of a Raja, who 
 paid Tribute to the Great Mogul. But when Orang-z^eb came to the Crown, he 
 not only cut off his, but a great number of the heads of his Subjects. There are 
 two Towers near the Town,, upon the high- way, and round about the Towers are 
 feveral holes, like windows; and in every hole, two foot diftant one from ano- 
 ther, there is fix'd a man's head. In my laft Travels in the year 1665-, it had not 
 been long fince that Execution had been done ; for then all the Heads were whole, 
 and caus'd a very ill fmell. 
 
 From Callabas to Akmate, coftes 2. 
 From Akmate to Collafar, coftes 9 
 Collafar is a little Town, all the Inhabitants whereof are Idolaters. As I palt 
 through it upon my laft Travels, there were brought to it eight Pieces of Ar-r 
 tillcry, the one carrying 48 pound-Bullet, the reft 36. Every Piece was drawn 
 
 * F " by 
 
34- 
 
 Travels in India. Part II. 
 
 by 24 Yoke of Oxen. A very ftrong Elephant follow'd the Artillery, and when 
 they came to any bad- way, where the Oxen were at a ftand, they brought up the 
 Elephant, who heav'd the Cannon forward with his Trunk. Without the Town, 
 all along the high-way, there grows a vaft number of great Trees, which they 
 call Mangnes j and in many places neer the Trees are to be feen little Pagods, 
 with every one an Idol at the door. The Elephant paiTing by one of the Pagods, 
 before which I was lodg'd, at the door whereof there ftood three Idols about five 
 foot high 5 fo foon as he came near- one, he took it up in his trunk, and broke it in 
 two pieces ; the next he took, he threw it up fo high, and fo far, that he broke 
 it in four pieces ; and carried away the head of the third along with him. Some 
 thought that the Governour of the Elephant had taught him what to do, and made 
 figns to him, which however I did not obferve ; neverthelefs the Barnes were 
 very much offended, though they durft not fay any thing ; for there was a Guard 
 of above two thoufand men that convoy'd the Artillery, all Soaldiers of the 
 King, and Mahometans, befides Franguis, or Franks, Englijh and Hollanders that 
 were Cannoneers. The King fent this Artillery to his Army in Decu, ,being at Wars 
 With the Raja Seva-gi, who the year before had plunder'd Surat 5 of whom I 
 fhall have occafion to fpeak in another place. 
 
 From Collafar to Sanfele, coftes 6 
 From Sanfele to Dongry, coftes 4 
 From Dongry to Gate, coftes 3 
 Gate is a ftrait paflage of the Mountains, a quarter of a league in length, the 
 defcent whereof leads from Surat to Agra. At the entry thereof you fee the 
 ruins of two or three Caftles, and the Road is fo narrow, that two Waggons can 
 hardly go a breaft. They that come from the South to go to -Agra, as from Sh- 
 tat, Goa, Vifapore, Golconda., Maflipatan, and other places, cannot avoid thele 
 ftreights, there being no other Road but this, efpecially if you take the Road 
 from Amadabat. Formerly there was a Gate at each end of the ftreight, and 
 at that end which is next to Agra, there are five or fix Shops of Banians, that 
 (ell Flower, Butter, Rice, Herbs and Pulfe. In my laft Travels I ftaid at one of 
 thefe Shops, to tarry for the Coaches and Waggons, all the PalTengers alighting 
 at the foot of the Streights. Not far olf there is a great Magazin full of facks 
 of Rice and Corn j and behind every lack lay a Serpent thirteen or fourteen foot 
 long, and proportionable in bignefs. A Woman that went to fetch Corn out of 
 one of thofe facks, was bitten by one of thofe Serpents, and perceiving her feff 
 wounded, ran out of the Magazin, crying out Ram, Ram, that is, O God, O God % 
 whereupon feveral Banians, men and women came running to her relief, and 
 bound her arm very hard above the wound, thinking to ftop the venom from run- 
 ning any higher. But all in vain, for immediately her face fwell'd, and turn'd black, 
 and fhe dy'd in lefs than an hour. The Ragi pen's, who are the belt Souldiers among 
 the Indians, and are all Idolaters, came in juft as the woman was expiring, and 
 about four of them entring with their Skains, and Half-pikes in their hands into 
 the Magazin, kill'd the Serpent. The people of the Village took and threw it 
 without the Town, and immediately there came a great number of Birds of prey, 
 which lighting upon the Carrion, devour'd it in lefs than an hours time. The Pa- 
 rents of the woman took her body, carri'd it to the River, wafh'd it, and then 
 burnt it. I was fore'd to ftay two days at that place, becaufe there was a River 
 to pals, which inftead of falling, fwell'd at that time, by reafon of the rains that 
 fell for three or four days together : So that I was conftrain'd to go half a league 
 lower before I could crofs it. They always endeavoured to ford this River ; for 
 otherwife they muft be compell'd to unload the Waggon into the Boats ; and alio 
 to carry the Goods in their arms for above half a league, which is worfe way 
 than can be imagin'd. The people get their livings by the Pafiengers, from whom 
 they extort as much as they can, there being none but they that know the ways : 
 Otherwife it would be an eafy thing to make a Bridg, there being no want either 
 of Wood or Stone near at hand. For the paflage is nothing but thorough Rocks, 
 that lie between the Mountain and the River j fo that the waters when they 
 fwell, overflow all the Road, in-fo-much that no-body can pals it, but they 
 who are very well acquainted with it. 
 
 From 
 
Book I. Travels in India. 35 
 
 From Gate to Nader, coftes , • 4 
 
 Nader is a great City upon the defcent of a Mountain, at the top whereof is 
 a kind of a Fortrefs ; all the Mountain being encompaft with walls. The greateft 
 part of theHoufes, as in all other Cities of India, are thatch'd with ftraw, one 
 Story high ; but the Rich-men's Houfes, are two Stories, and terrafs'd. Round 
 about the City are feveral great Ponds to be feen, which were formerly encom- 
 paft with hewn-ftone, but now are not at all look'd after $ yet there are very fair 
 Monuments about them. The fame River which we paft the day beforehand which 
 we repafs four or five Coftes on this fide Nader, encompaftes three parts of the 
 City and Mountain, like a Peninfula, and after a long winding-courfe which it takes, 
 falls at length into Ganges. At Nader they make a great quantity of quilted- 
 Coverlets,fome white, others embroidered with Flowers of Gold, Silk and Satin. 
 From Nader to Barqni-fera, coftes 9 
 From Barqni-fera to Trie, coftes t 3 
 
 From Trie to G on ale or, coftes 6 
 Gomleor is a great City ill-built, like all the reft, after the manner of the In- 
 dians j it is built all along the fide of a Mountain that lies upon the Weft-fide of 
 it ; and which at the top is encompaft with Walls and Towers. There are in this 
 Enclofure feveral Ponds made by the rains j and what they fow there is fufficient 
 to keep the Garrifon : For which reafon it is efteem'd one of the beft in the In- 
 dies. Upon the defcent of the Hill, which looks towards the North-eaft, Cha- 
 jehan built an Houfe of Pleafure ; from whence there is a Profpect over all the 
 City, and indeed it may ferve for a Garrifon. Below the Houfe are to be feen fe- 
 veral Idols cut out of the Rock, reprefenting the ftiapes of their Gods : And 
 among the reft, there is one of an extraordinary heighth. 
 
 Since the Mahometan Kings became Mafters of this Countrey, this Fortrefs of 
 Gonaleor is the place where they lecure Princes and great Noblemen. Cha-jeha-% 
 coming to the Empire by foul-play, cans'd all the Princes and Lords whom he 
 miftruited, to be feiz'd one after another, and fent them to the Fortrefs of Gona- 
 leor ; but he futfer'd them all to live, and enjoy their Eftates. Anreng-z,eb his Son 
 acls quite otherwife : For when he fends any great Lord to this place, at the end. 
 of nine or ten davs he orders him to be poiion'd ; and this he does that the peo- 
 ple may not exclaim againft him for a bloody Prince. So foon as he had in his 
 clutches Prince Morat-Bakche his youngeft Brother, whom he engaged to take 
 Arms againft his Father Cba-jehan; and who being Governour of the Province 
 of Gnz,erat, took upon him the Title of King, he fent him to this Fortrefs, where 
 he dv'd. They have made him a moft magnificent Monument in the City in a 
 Mofqnee, which they built on purpofe, with a great Piaz,z*a before it all fur- 
 rounded with Vaults and Shops over them. For it is the cuftom of the Indians, 
 when they rear any publick Building, to make a great Piaz,z~a before it, where 
 they keep their Markets, with a Foundation for the Poor, to whom they give 
 Alms every day, as being to pray to God for him that rais'd the Fabrick. 
 Five Coji's from Gonaleor, you ford a River which is call'd Lantke. 
 From Gonaleor to Paterki-fera, coftes 3 
 From Pater kt-fera to Qnariqni-fera, coftes 10 
 There is a Bridg at Paterki-fera, confifting of fix wide Arches 5 and the River 
 you go over is call'd ^narinado. 
 
 From Qnariki-fera to Dolponra, coftes 6 
 At Dolponra there is a great River which is call'd Chammelnadi, to which there 
 belongs a Ferry-Boat: The River it felf falls into the Gemena between Agra and 
 Halabas. 
 
 From Dolponra to Minafqni-fera, coftes 6 
 At Minafqni-fera there is a River, which is call'd fagonnadi. You pafs it over 
 a very long Bridg, built of Stone, the name whereof is faonlcaponl. 
 
 From Minafqni-fera to this Bridg, coftes 8 
 Not far from this Bridg it is, that they view the Merchants Goods, that when 
 they come to Agra they may not be deceiv'd of their duties. But more parti- 
 cularly to fee whether among the Casks of Fruits pickl'd in Vinegar, in pots of 
 Glafs, there be no flasks of Wine. 
 
 *Fa From 
 
3& Travels in India. Part DL 
 
 From the Bridg faoulcapoul to Agra, coftes 4 
 So that from Seronge to Agra it is an hundred and fix Coftes, which are ordinary 
 leagues ; and from Surat to -Agra, 339. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 The Road from Surat ft> Agra through Arnadabat, 
 
 FRom Surat to Baroche, coftes 22 
 All the Countrey between thefe two Cities is full of Corn, Rice, Millet, and 
 Sugar-Canes. Before you enter into Baroche, you muft Ferry over the River 
 which runs to Cambaya, and falls into the Golf that carries the fame name. 
 
 Baroche is a great City, to which there belongs a Fortrefs, of which there is 
 no ufe made at this time. But the City has been always very famous, by reafon 
 of the River, which has a particular quality to whiten their Cottons ; which are 
 brought thither from all parts of the Great Mogul's, Territories, where they have 
 not that convenience. In this place are made a great quantity of Baffa's, or long 
 and large pieces of Cotton. Thefe Cottons are very fair, and clofe woven j and 
 the price of thefe pieces is from four to an hundred Roupies. You muft pay 
 Cuftom at Baroche for all Goods that are brought in and carri'd out. The Eng- 
 UJh have a very fair Houfe in the City ; and I remember once, that coming thi- 
 ther one day in my return from Surat to Agra with the Prefident of the EngUJh, 
 prefently the Mountebanks came about him, and ask'd him if he would fee any 
 of their tricks. The firft thing they did was to light a great fire, and to heat cer- 
 tain Iron-chains red-hot, and wind them about their bodies, making as if they felt 
 a great deal of pain, but in truth receiving no harm at all. Then they thruft a 
 piece of a ftick into the ground, and ask'd the Company what Fruit they would 
 have. One told them, he would have Mengues 5 then one of the Mountebanks 
 hiding himfelf in the middle of a Sheet, ftoopt to the ground five or fix times 
 one after another. I was fo curious to go up ftairs, and look out of a window, to 
 fee if I could fpy what the Mountebank did ; and perceived, that after he had 
 cut himfelf under the armpits with a Razor, he rubb'd the ftick with his Blood. 
 After the two firft times that he rais'd himfelf, the ftick feem'd to the very eye to 
 grow. The third time there fprung out branches with young buds. The fourth' 
 time the Tree was covered with leaves j and the fift time it bore flowers. The 
 Prefident of the Englijh had then his Minifter with him, having brought him from 
 Arnadabat to Chriften the Commander of the Hollanders, Child, to which he had 
 promifed to be Godfather. The Englijh Minifter protefted that he cculd not give 
 his confent that any Chriftian fhould be a fpe&ator of fuch delufions. So that as 
 foon as he faw that thofe Mountebanks had of a dry-ftick, in lefs than half an 
 hour, made a Tree four or five foot high, that bare leaves and flowers as in the 
 Spring-time ; he went about to break it, protefting he would not give the Com- 
 munion to any perfon that fhould ftay any longer to fee thofe things. Thereupon 
 the Prefident was forc'd to difmifs the Mountebanks, who wander about the 
 Countrey with their Wives and Children juft like Gipfies ; and having given 
 them to the value of ten or twelve Crowns, they went away very well con- 
 tented. 
 
 They that are curious to fee Cambaya, never go out of their way above 
 five or fix Coftes, or thereabout. For when you are at Baroche , inftead of 
 going to Broudra, you may go dire&Iy forward to Cambaya, from thence af- 
 terwards to Arnadabat. But whether it be for bufinefs, or out of curiofity, 
 the latter Road is never to betaken; not only becaufe it is the longeft way, 
 but becaufe of the danger in croffing the mouth of the Golf. 
 
 Cambaya is a great City at the bottom of the Golf that bears its name. 
 Here it is that they fhape thofe fair Agats, that come from the Indies, into 
 Cups, Hafts of Knives, Beads, and other forts of Workmanfhip. In the parts 
 adjacent to the City, they alfo make Indigo of the fame nature of that of 
 
 Sar- 
 
Book I. 
 
 Travels in I 
 
 NDIA. 
 
 31 
 
 Sarquefs ; and it was famous for traffick at the time when the Portuguefes flou- 
 rifh'd in India. There are to be feen at this day, in the Quarter next the 
 Sea, very fair Houfes, which they had built, with very rich Furniture, after 
 the Portugal manner ; but now they are uninhabited, and fell to decay every day 
 more and more. There were then fuch good Orders obferv'd in Cambaya^ 
 that two hours after day was (hut in, every Street was lockt up with two 
 Gates, which are ftill to be feen ; and ftill they continue to lock up the prin- 
 cipal Streets, as alfo the Streets that lead into the Town. One of the chief 
 reafons why the Town has loft the greateft part of its Trade is, becaufe that 
 formerly the Sea run clofe up to Cambaya, fo that little Vellels eafily anchor'd 
 by it ; but afterwards the Sea daily loft in that part, fo that a Ikiall Ship could 
 not ride within five or fix Leagues of the City. 
 
 There are a great number of Peacocks in the Indies, efpecially in the Ter- 
 ritories of Barocbe, Cambaya , and Broudra. The flefh of the young ones is 
 white and well-tafted, like ours, and you fhall fee vaft numbers of them all 
 day in the Fields, for ai night they rooft upon the Trees. 'Tis a hard mat- 
 ter to come near them in the day, for as fbon as they perceive themlelvcs 
 hunted, they fly away as fwift as a Partridg among the Bufhes 5 fo that it is 
 impoffible for any man to follow them without tearing his Cloaths all to rags 5 
 therefore are they only to be taken in the night time, to which purpofe they 
 have this invention. They approach the Tree with a kind of a Banner, upon 
 which there is a Peacock painted to the life on both fides ; at the top of the 
 ftick are faften'd two lighted Candles, the brightnefs whereof amazing the Pea- 
 cock, caufes him to ftretch out his Neck toward the end of the ftick, to which 
 there is a Rope ty'd with a Aiding knot, which he that holds the Banner draws, 
 when he finds that the Peacock "has put his Neck into it. Eut you muft have 
 a care of killing either Bird, or any other Animal in the Territories, of which 
 the idolatrous Raja's are Mafters ; which it is nothing dangerous to do in thofe 
 parts of the Indies, where the Goyernours are Mahometans, and give liberty 
 to Fowl or Hunt. It happen'd one time that a rich Perfian Merchant, paf- 
 fing through the Territories of the Raja of Damivar, fhot a Peacock upon the 
 road, and kill'd it, either out of rafhnef?, or ignorance of the Cuftoms of the 
 Country. The Bannims incens'd at the attempt, which is accounted among 
 them a moft abominable facriledg, feiz'd upon the Merchant, and all his Mo- 
 ney to the value of 300000. Roupies, and tying him to a Tree, whipt him in 
 fo terrible a manner for three days together, that the man dy'd. 
 
 From Cambaya you go to a little Village diftant fome three Coftes, where 
 there is a Pagod, to which all the Indian Curtifans come to make their Of- 
 ferings. This Pagod is full of a great number of naked Images, among the 
 reft, there is a large Figure of one that feems to refemble Apollo , with his 
 privy parts all uncover'd. When the old Curtifans have got together a good 
 fum of Money in their youth, they buy young Slaves, whom they teach to 
 Daunce, and fing wanton Songs, and inftru£ in all the myfteries of their in- 
 famous Art. And when thefe young Girls are eleven or twelve years old, 
 their Miftrefies fend them to this Pagod, believing it will bring them good 
 fortune, to offer and furrender up themfelves to this Idol. 
 
 From this Pagod to Cbtidabad you have fix Coftes. This is one of the faircft 
 Houfes of the great Mogul, with a wide Enclofure, wherein he has vaft Gar- 
 dens, and large Ponds, with all the pleafures and curiofity whereof the Ge- 
 nius of the Indians is capable. 
 
 From Chiidabad to Amadabad you have but five Coftes ; and fo I return to 
 Baroche, and the common Road. 
 
 From Barochs to Broudra, Coftes 22 
 
 Broudra is a great City ftanding in a fertil Soil, wherein there is a vaft Trade for 
 Calicuts. 
 
 From Broudra^ Neriade, coftes 18 
 From Neriade to Avsadabat, coftes 20 
 Amadabat is one of the greateft Cities in India ; and where there is a mighty 
 Trade for Silk-Stuffs, Hangings of Gold and Silver, and others mix'd with Silk 5 
 
38 Travels in India. Part II. 
 
 Indigo, which is made at a great Town, not far from Amadabat, called Sarquefs. 
 There was in that place a Pagod, which the Mahumetari s have pull'd down, and 
 built a Mofcjttee in the place. Before you enter into it, you muft crofs three large 
 Courts pav'd with Marble, and encompaft with Galleries ; nor muft you enter into 
 the third Court till you have pull'd off your lhooes. The infide of the Mofywe 
 is adorn'd with Mofaic-wovk, the greateft part whereof is of Agat s of divers 
 colours, which they fetch from the Mountains of Comb ay a, not above two days 
 journey off. There are feveral Sepulchres of the ancient Idolatrous Kings, that 
 look like little Chappels, of Mofaic-vrork, built upon a Vaut that is under the Se- 
 pulchre. There runs a River from Amadabat toward the North-weft, which du- 
 ring the rainy-feafons that continue three or four Months together, is very wide 
 and rapid, and does much mifchief every year. It is fo with all the other Rivers 
 in India ; and after the rains are fallen, you muft ftay fix weeks or two months 
 before you can ford Amadabat-Kwer, where there is no Bridg. There arc 
 two or three Boats ; but they are of no ufe, when the ftream is fo fwift ; fo that 
 you muft ftay till the waters are fall'n. But the people of the Countrey will not 
 ftay fo long 5 for to crofs from one River to another, they only make ufe of Goat- 
 skins, which they blow up and fill with wind, and then tye them between their fto- 
 macks and their bellies. Thus the poor men and women fwim crofs this River, 
 and when they would carry their children along with them, they put them in 
 certain round pots of Earth, the mouth whereof is four-fingers wide, and drive 
 the Pots before them. This puts me in mind of a Paflage, when I was at Ama- 
 dabat in the year 1642, which is too remarkable to be omitted. 
 
 A Countrey-man and a Countrey-woman one day paft the Jliver as I have rela- 
 ted, and having a child about two years old, they put it into one of theft Pots, fo 
 that there was nothing but the head appear'd. Being about the middle of the 
 River, they met with a little bank of Sand, where there lay an huge Tree, which 
 the ftream had carri'd thither 5 whereupon the Father fTiov'd the Pot toward that 
 part, to reft himfelf a-while. When he came near the Tree, the trunk whereof 
 lay fomewhat above the water, a Serpent leapt out from among the roots, into 
 the Pot where the Infant was. The Father and the Mother frighted at the acci- 
 dent, and having almoft loft their fentes, let the Pot go a-drift where the ftream 
 carri'd it, and lay almoft dead themfelves at the bottom of the Tree. About two 
 leagues lower, a Banian and his Wife with a little Infant, were warning themfelves 
 in the River before they went to eat. They defcry'd the Pot a-far-otf, with the 
 half of the Infant's-head that appear'd above the hole. The Banian immediately 
 fwinu to the relief of the child, and having ftopp'd the Pot, drives it to the fhoar. 
 The Mother follow'd by her own, comes prefently to take the other child out of 
 the Pot, at what time the Serpent that had done no harm to the other child, 
 moots out of the Pot, and winding about hers, ftings it, and infufes its venom in- 
 to the Infant, fo that it dy'd immediately. However, the accident, being fo- ex- 
 traordinary, did not trouble thofe poor people ; who rather believ'd it to have 
 happen'd by the fecret difpofal of their Deity, who had taken from them one 
 child, to give them another for it, with which opinion they prefently comforted 
 themfelves. Some time after, the report of this accident coming to the ears of 
 the firft Countrey-man, he comes to the Banian to tell him how the mifchance 
 had happen'd, and to demand his child of him ; the other Indian affirming that 
 the child was his, and that his God had fent it him, in the place of that which 
 was dead. To be fhort, the bufinefs made fo loud a noife, that it was at length 
 brought before the King, who order'd, that the child mould be reftor'd tothe 
 Father. 
 
 At the fame time there happen'd another very pleafant accident in the lame 
 City of Amadabat. The Wife of a rich Merchant Banian, nam'd Saintidas, ne- 
 ver having had a child, and manifefting her eager defire to have one, a fervanc of 
 the Houfe took her a-fide one day, and told her, that if {he would but eat that 
 which he would give her, (he mould be with child. The woman defirous to know 
 what fhe was to eat, the fervant told her it was a little fifh, and that me mould 
 eat but three or four. Now the Religion of the Banians forbidding them to eat 
 any thing that has life, me could not refolve at firft to yield to his propofal } but 
 the fervant having promifed her that he would fo order the matter, that fhe 
 
 mould 
 
Book I Travels tn India. 
 
 fhould not know whether it were fifh or no that fhe eat, fhe refolv'd to try his 
 receir, and went the next night to lie with her Husband, according to the in- 
 ftruction which fhe had received from the fervant. Some time after, the woman 
 perceiving that fhe was big, her Husband happen'd to die, and the kindred of the 
 deceaied would have his Eftate. The Widow oppofed them, and told them that 
 it behov'd them to fray, till they faw whether the child fhe went withal, would 
 live or no. Her kindred were furpriz'd to hear fuch news that they fo little ex- 
 pected, and tax'd her for one that either ly'd or jefted with them $ knowing that 
 the woman had liv'd fifteen or fixteen years with her Husband, yet never had 
 been with child. Seeing therefore that her kindred frill tormented her, fhe went 
 and threw her felf at the Governour's feet, to whom fhe related all that had paft j 
 who thereupon order'd that the kindred fhould ftay till the woman was deliver'd. 
 Some days after fhe had lain-in, the kindred of the deceas'd Merchant, who 
 were perfons of Credit, and gap'd after fo fair an inheritance, affirm'd that the 
 child was not legitimate, and that fhe had it not by her Husband. The Gover- 
 nour, to underftand the truth of the matter, calls for the Phyfitians ; who con- 
 cluded, that the Infant fhould be carri'd to the Bs.th, faying, that if the Receit 
 which the Mother had made ufe of, were real, the fweat of the child would 
 fmell of fifh ; which' was done accordingly, and the Experiment prov'd true. 
 Thereupon the Governour order'd that the child fhould have the Eftate, the Mer- 
 chant being fo proud to be his Father : But the Kindred, troubl'd that fuch a 
 fat Morfel had efcap'd their mouths, appeal'd to the King. Upon their relation of 
 the ftory, the King wrote to the Governour to fend him the Mother and the In- 
 fant, to the end the Experiment might be made in his prefence : which having 
 the fame fuccefs as before, the kindred furceas'd their claim, and the Eftare re- 
 inain'd to the Mother and the Infant. 
 
 I remember alfo another pleafant Story which was related to me at Amadabat, 
 where I have been ten or twelve times. A Merchant with whom I often dealt, 
 and who was very well belov'd by Cha-Efi-Kan, Governour of the Province, and 
 the King's Unckle, had the reputation never to have told a lye. Cha-Efi-Kau y 
 after the three years of his Government were expir'd, according to the cuftom of 
 the Great Mogul, and that Aareng-z.eb, the King's Son was come into his place, 
 retir'd to Agra, where the Court then was. One day, difcourfing with the King, 
 he told him, that he had feen many rare things in the Governments, with which 
 his Majefty had honour'd him, but that one thing above all the reft hac 1 aftonifh'd 
 him, to have met with a Rich Merchant that had never told a lye, and yet he 
 was above threefcore and ten years of age. The King furpriz'd at a thing fo ex- 
 traordinary., fignified to Cha-Efi-Kan 3 his defire to fee the perfbn, and commanded 
 him to fend for him to Agra, which he did. The Old-man was very much 
 troubl'd, as well in regard of the length of the way, it being a journey of 2 j or 
 or 30 days, as for that he was to make a Prefent to the King. In fhort, he pro- 
 vided one, efteem'd at forty-thoufand Roupies, to carry Betle in, enchas'd with 
 Diamonds, Rubies, and Emraulds. When he had made his obey lance to the King, 
 and given him his Prefent, the King ask'd him only what was his name, to whom 
 he replied, that he was call'd the man that had never told a lye. Then the King 
 ask'd him who was his Father ? Sir, laid he, I cannot tell $ his Majefty fatisfi'd 
 with that anfwer, ftopt there, and unwilling to trouble h.im any farther, comman- 
 ded an Elephant to be given him, which is a very great Honour, and ten-thoufand 
 Roupies to bear his charges home. 
 
 The Banians have a great Veneration for Apes, and there are fome which they 
 breed up in their Pagods to worfhip. There are three or four Houfes in Amad- 
 abat which they make ufe of for Hofpitals for Cowes, Oxen, Apes, and other 
 fick or maim'd Beafts } and they carry all they can find thither to preferve them. 
 This is alfo very remarkable, that every Tuefilay and Friday, all the Apes in the 
 places adjoyning to Amadabat, of their own accord come to the City, and get 
 upon the tops of their Houfes, where they lye, during the exceffive heats. And 
 therefore upon thofe days the people never fail to fet ready in their Ter- 
 rains, Rice, Millet, Sugar-Canes in their feafons, and other fuch-like things. For 
 if the Apes did not find their provifion when they came, they would break the 
 Tiles where-with the reft of the Houfe is cover'd, and do a great deal of mis- 
 chief. ' 
 
Travels in India. 
 
 Part n. 
 
 chief. And you mud here take notice alfo, that the Ape never eats any thing 
 which he does not very well like the fcent of before-hand ; and before he fwal- 
 lows any-thing, he lays up his Magazin againft future hunger j filling Lis bags 
 with provifion, which he keeps till next day. 
 
 I have faid, that the Banians have a particular Veneration for the Ape j of 
 which I will give you one Example, among many, that I could bring. Being one 
 day at Amadabat 3 at the Houfe belonging to the Hollanders, a young man of that 
 Nation newly arriv'd to fervc in the Factory, not knowing the cuftom of the 
 Countrey, and feeing a great Ape upon a Tree in the Court, would needs fhew a 
 piece of activity, or rather a trick of youth, to kill the Ape with a fmall Gun. 
 I was at Table then with the D/wc^-Commander ; and we no fooner heard the 
 blow, but We heard as foon a loud noife of Banians, that wait upon the Holland- 
 Company, who came to complain bitterly of him that had kill'd the Ape. They 
 would all have been gone ; fo that the Commander had much ado, and made 
 many excufes before he could appeafe them, and oblige them to ftay. 
 
 In the Neighbourhood about Amadabat, there are a great number of Apes. 
 And this is obfervable, that where there are a great number of thofe Ani- 
 mals, there are very few Crows. For as foon as they have built their Nefts 
 and laid their Eggs, the Apes get upon the Trees and throw their Eggs to 
 the Ground. One day returning from Agra, and departing out of Amada- 
 bat with the Englijh Prefident, who came hither about fome bufinefs, and was 
 returning to Swat, we pafs'd through a little Forreft of Trees, call'd Mangues, 
 fome four or five Leagues from Amadabat ; there we faw a vaft number of 
 great Monkeys, male and female, and many of the females holding their young 
 ones in their Arms. We had each of us our Coach, and the Englijh Prefi- 
 dent caufing his to ftop, told me he had an excellent and very neat Harque-? 
 bufs, that was prefented him by 1 the Governour of Daman , and knowing 
 I could aim well, he defir'd me to try it, at one of thofe Apes. One of my 
 Servants, who was born in the Country, making me a fign not to venture, 
 I endeavoured to dhTwade the Prefident from his defign ; but it was impof- 
 fible; fo that I took the Harquebufs , and kill'd a female Monkey, who lay 
 ftretch'd out upon the Boughs, letting her little ones fall to the ground. But 
 it fell out as my Servant had forewarn'd me. For immediately all the 
 Monkeys that were upon the Trees, to the number of fixty, came down in 
 a great fury, to have Jeap'd into the Prefidents Coach, where they would 
 foon have ftrangled him, had we not prevented them by clofing the Shutters, 
 and had we not had a great number of Servants, that with much ado kept 
 them off. And though they came not to my Coach, yet I was very much 
 afraid of my felf ; for they purfued the Prefident's Coach above a League, and 
 they were ftout lufty Monkeys. 
 
 From Amadabat to Panfer, coftes 13 
 From Panfer to Mafana, coftes 14 
 From Mafana to Chit four, coftes 14 
 Chitpour is a very good City, fo called by reafon of the great Trade for painted- 
 Calicuts, which are called Cbites : Near which, fome four or five-hundred paces 
 toward the South, there runs a fmall River. Arriving at Cbitpottr in one of my 
 Voyages, I pitch'd my Tent under two or three Trees at the end of a wide-place 
 neer the Town. A little while after I faw four or five Lions appear, which were 
 brought to be tam'd ; which they told me took them up five or fix months ; and 
 their way to do it, is this : They tye the Lions at twelve paces diftance one from 
 another by the hinder-legs, with a Rope faften'd to a great woodden-ftake fet deep 
 in the ground/with another cord about the neck,which the Mafter holds in his hand. 
 Thefe Stakes are planted in the fame Line, and in another Parallel they ftretch out 
 another Cord as long as the fpace,which the bodies of the Lions fo difpos'd of, as I 
 have defcrib'd, take up. The two Cords which hold the Lion ty'd by the two 
 feinder-feet, give him liberty to fpring out as far as that long Cord ; which is a 
 mark to thofe that ftand to provoke and incenfe the Lions, by throwing ftones and 
 pieces of wood at them, not to venture any farther : The people run to fee the 
 fight, and when the Lion, provok'd, gives a fpring toward the Cord, the Mafter 
 
 holds 
 
Book I. 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 41 
 
 holds another in his hand, ty'd about his neck, that pulls him back. Thus they 
 accuftom the Lion by degrees to be familiar with the people, and at my coming 
 to Cbiapour, I law this Divertifement without ftirring out of my Coach. 
 
 The next day I had another, meeting with a knot of Faquirs, or Mahometan 
 Dervicbs. I counted fifty-feven, among whom, he that was the Chief or Supe- 
 rior, had been Grand Efquire to Cba-jeban-guir, having left the Court, when 
 Sultan Boulakiy his youngeft Son, was ftrangl'd by Order of Cba-jeban 3 there 
 were four others^ who next to the Superior, were chief of the Company, who 
 had been alfo great Lords in the fame Cba-jeban's Court. All the Cloaths thole 
 five Dervicbs had, were only four ells of Orange-colour-Calicut to hide what 
 modefty will have hid before and behind, and every one of them a Tygers-skin 
 over their moulders ty'd together under their chins. They had led before them 
 eight fair Horfes faddl'd and bridl'd j three whereof had Bridles of Gold, and 
 Saddles cover'd with Plates of Gold, and the other five had Bridles of Silver 
 cover 'd with Plates of Silver, and a Leopard's-skin upon every one. The other 
 Dervicbs had only a Cord for their Girdle, to which was faften'd a piece of Cali- 
 cut only to cover their private parts. Their hair was ty'd in wreaths round about 
 their heads after the manner of a Turbant. They were all well-arm'd, the molt 
 part with Bows and Arrows, fome with Muskets, and others with Half-pikes,with 
 another fort of weapon which we have not in Europe 5 that is to fay, a (harp piece 
 of Iron like the fide of a Platter without a bottom, which they wind eight or ten 
 times about their necks, and carry like a Calves Chaldron. They draw out thefe 
 Iron-Circles as they intend to make ufe of them ; and they will throw them with 
 fuch a force againft a man,that they mall fly as fwift as an Arrow, and go very neer 
 to cut a man in two in the middle. They had every one,befides all this,an Hunting- 
 Horn, which they wind, making a prodigious nolle when they come to any place, 
 and when they go away j together with a Grater or Ralp, being an Iron-Inftru- 
 ment, made like a Trowel. This is an Inftrument which the Indians carry gene- 
 rally about them when they travel, to fcrape and make clean the places where 
 they intend to reft ; and fome of them, when they have fcrap'd all the duft to- 
 gether into an heap, make ufe of it inftead of a Mattrefs or Pillow to lie eafily 
 upon. There Avere fome of them that were arm'd with long Tucks ; which they 
 had bought either of the Englifo or Tortugds. Their Luggage confifted of four 
 great Chefts full of Perjian and Arabian Books, and fome Kitchen- houfholdftuff : 
 They had alfo ten or twelve Oxen to carry their fick. When the Dervicbs came 
 to the place where I lay with my Coach, having about fifty perfons with me, as 
 well of the people of the Countrey, as of my own fervants ; the Chief or Su- 
 perior of the Troop feeing me fo well-attended, enquir'd what Aga that was ; 
 and defir'd me to let him have that place which I had taken up, as being the moft 
 convenient in all that place, for him and his Dervicbs to lodg. When they told 
 me the quality of the Chief, and the four Dervicbs that attended him, I was wil- 
 ling to be civil, and to yield to their requeft , and thereupon 1 left tbem the place 
 free. After they had well-water'd theplace^ and laid the duft, they lighted two 
 fires, as if it had been in the froft and mow, for the five principal Dervicbs, who 
 fate and chaf'd themfelves before and behind. That very evening, after they had 
 fupp'd, the Governour of the Town came to complement the principal Der- 
 vicbs, and during their ftay, fent them Rice and other things, which -they are ac- 
 cuftom'd to eat. When they come to any place, the Superior (ends feme of his 
 Crew a begging into the Towns and Villages, and what Alms they get, is pre- 
 fently diftributed equally among them ; every one of them taking care to boil 
 his own Rice. What is over and above they give to the Poor in the evening j for 
 they referve nothing till next day. 
 
 From Chit four to Balampmr, coftes iz 
 From Balampour to Dantivar, coftes 11 
 From Dantivar to Bargant, coftes 17 
 Bargant is in the Territories of a Raja, to whom you pay duties. In one of 
 my journeys to Agra, palTing through Bargant, I did not fee the Raja, but only 
 his Lieutenant, who was very civil to me, and made me a Prefent of Rice, Butter, 
 and Fruit in feafon. To make him amends, I gave him three Shames of Gold 
 
 * G 
 
 and' 
 
4 2 
 
 Travels in I 
 
 NDI A. 
 
 Part n. 
 
 and Silk, four Handkerchiefs of painted Linnen, and two Bottles, the one full of 
 Aquavit a. > and the other full of Spani/h-Wmc. At my departure he tent a Con- 
 voy of twenty Horfe four or five leagues along with me. 
 
 One evening, being about to lodg upon the Frontiers of the Territories of the 
 Raja of Bargant, my people came to me and told me, that if we took the Road 
 through Ba v gant y we mould go neer to have all our throats cut, for that the Raja 
 of that place liv'd altogether upon Robbery. So that unlefs I hir'd an hunder'd 
 more of the Countrey-people, there was no likelihood of efcaping thofe Free- 
 booters. At firft I argu'd with them, and tax'd their Cowardice, but fearing to 
 pay for my rafhnefs afterwards, I lent them to hire fifty more, for three days 
 only,that we crofs'd the Raja's Countrey : for which they ask'd me every one four 
 Roupies, which is as much as you give them for a whole Month. The next day as I 
 was about to fet forward, my Guard came and told me they would leave me, 
 and that they would not venture their lives, defiring me not to write to Agra to 
 their Captain, who was refponfible for them, that they had left me againft my 
 will. Three of my fervants alfo did as they did, fo that I had no body left with 
 me, but a man that lead an Horfe in his hand, my Coachman, and three other fer- 
 vants, and fo I fet forward under the protection of God. About a league from 
 the place which I had left, I perceived fome part of my Convoy following me. 
 Thereupon i ftopt my Coach to ftay for them,, and when they came neer, I bid 
 them advance if they intended to go along with me. 1 But feeing them fearful, 
 and unrefolv'd, 1 bid them go about their bufinefs, telling them I had no need of 
 fuch Cowards as they were. About a league from thence I difcover'd upon the 
 brow of an Hill about fifty Horfe, four of which came riding up to me ; when I 
 perceived them, I alighted out of my Coach, and having with me fome thirteen 
 Spit-fires, I gave tc every one of my men an Harquebufs. The Horfe-men ap- 
 proaching, I kept my Coach between them and me, and had my Gun ready cockt, 
 in cafe they fhould aflail me. But they made me a lign, that I mould fear nothing j 
 only that the Prince was a Hunting, and had fent to know what Strangers paft 
 through his Territories : I made anfwer, that I was the fame Frangvy that had 
 paft by five or fix wee,ks before. By good luck^ the very fame Lieutenant to 
 whom I had made the Prefent of Aquavit & and Spanifh-Y/'me, follow'd thofe 
 four Horfemen. And after he had teftify'd how glad he was to fee me, he ask'd 
 me if I had any Wine j I told him I never travell'd without that : For indeed the 
 Englijh and Hollanders had prefented me witji feveral Bottels at Agra. So foon 
 as the Lieutenant was return'd to the Raja, the Raja himfelf came to me, and 
 told me I was welcome; and bid me reft my felf in a fhady- place which he 
 pointed to, about a league and an half from the place where we were. In the 
 evening he came, and we ftaid together two days to make merry ; the Raja bring- 
 ing along with him certain Morrice-dancers, without which the Perfians and In- 
 dians can never think themfelves heartily merry. At my departure the Raja lent 
 me 200 Horfe,to convoy me to the Frontiers of his Territories, for three days to- 
 gether j for which I only gave them three or four pound of Tobacco. When I 
 came to Amadabat, the people would hardly believe that I had had fo kind a re- 
 ception from a Prince, that was noted for abufing ftrangers that paft through his 
 Countrey. 
 
 From Bargant to Bimal, coftes * J 
 
 From Bimal to Modra, coftes * J 
 
 From Modra to Chalaour, coftes *o 
 Chalaour is an ancient Town upon a Mountain, encompaft with Walls, and very 
 difficult to come to. There is a Lake at the top of the Mountain, and another 
 below 3 between which and the foot of the Mountain lies the Road to the 
 Town. 
 
 From Chalaour to Cant op, coftes J* 
 From Cantap to Setlana, coftes 1 $ 
 
 From Setlana to Palavafeny, coftes J 4 
 From Palavafeny to Pipars, coftes 1 1 
 
 From Dantivar to Mir da, is three days journey, being a mountainous Countrey 
 that belongs to Raja's, or particular Princes that pay tribute to the Great Mogul. 
 
 From Pipars to Mirda, coftes 
 
 In 
 
Book I. Travels in India. a 
 
 In recompence whereof the Great Mogul gives them Commands in his Armies- 
 by which they gain much more than they loofe by the tribute which they 
 pay 
 
 Mirda is a great City, but ill-built. When I came thither in one of my Indian- 
 journeys, all the Inns were full of Paffengers, in regard that Cha-jeban's Aunt, the 
 Wife of Cha-Efl-Kan, was going that way to marry her Daughter to Saltan 
 Sujah, the fecond Son of Cba-jehan $ I was forc'd to let up my Tent upon a Bank, 
 with Trees on both fides : But I was not a little furpriz'd two hours afterward, to 
 fee fifteen or twenty Elephants loofe, that tore down the boughs as far as they 
 could reach, breaking off the huge Arms of Trees, as if they had been but fmall 
 faggot-fticks. This fpoil was clone by the order of the Begum, in revenge of the 
 Affront which the Inhabitants of Mirda had put upon her, who had not waked 
 on her, and made her a Prefent as they ought to have done. 
 
 From Mirda to Baronda, coftes 12 
 From Baronda to Coetchiel } coftes 1 8 
 
 From Coetchiel to Bandar-Sonncry, coftes 14 
 From Bandar-S onnery to Ladona, coftes 16 
 From Ladona to Cbafou, coftes 12 
 From Chafou to NouaU, coftes 17 
 From Nouali to Hindoo, coftes 19 
 From Hindoo to Bamana, coftes ic 
 Thefe two laft places are two Towns, where, as in all the Cov^rey round 
 about, they make Indigo-Fhtc, which is round 5 and as it is the beu' of all the. In- 
 digo's, lb is it double the price. 
 
 From Baniana to Vettapour, coftes 14. 
 Vettapour is an ancient Town where they make woollen-Hangings. , 
 From Vettapour to Agra, coftes 12 
 From Surat to Agra is in all, coftes " 41 $■ 
 
 If you could divide your journeys equally into thirteen Cosies a-piece, you 
 might go to Surat in thirty-three days •, but became you reft, and ftay at lyme 
 places, it is generally thirty-five or forty days journey. 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 The Road from Ifpahaa to Agca, through Candahar. 
 
 I Have made an exatt defcription of fome part of the Road, and brought 
 the Reader as far as Candahar ; it remains, that I carry him from Canda^r 
 to Agra ; to which there are but two ways to go, either through Caboul, or 
 through Mlultan. The latter way is the fhorter by ten days journey. But 
 the Caravan never goes that way. For from Candahar to Multan you travel 
 almoft all the way through Defarts j and fometimes you travel three or four 
 days without meeting any water. So that the molt ordinary and beaten 
 Road, is through Caboul. Now from Candahar to Caboul, is twenty-four days 
 journey 5 from Caboul to Labor, twenty-two ; from Labor to Dehly, or Ge- 
 hanabxt, eighteen ; from Dehly to Agra, fix ; which with the fixty days jour- 
 ney from Jfpahan to Farat, and the twenty from Farat to Candahar, makes 
 in all from Ifpahan to Agra, an hundred and fifty days journey. But the 
 Merchants that are in hafte, take Horfes, three or four together in a company, 
 and ride the whole journey in fixty, or fixty-five days at moft. 
 
 Multan is a City where there is made a vaft quantity of Linnen Calicuts, 
 which was all tranfported to Tuta, before the Sands had ftop'd up the mouth 
 of the River ; but fince that, it is carry 'd all to Agra, and from Agra to Su- 
 rat t as is the greateft part of the Merchandize which is made at Labor. But 
 in regard carriage is fo dear, very few Merchants traffick either to Multan or 
 at Labor 5 and many of the Workmen have alfo deferted thole places, fo that 
 the Kings Revenues are very much diminiflied in thoie Provinces. Multan 
 
 * G 2 is 
 
44 Travels in India. Part II. 
 
 is the place whither all the Banians come, that trade into Perfia, where they 
 follow the fame Trade as the fews, and out-do them in Ufury. They have a 
 particular Law among them, which permits them to eat Fowl upon certain 
 days in the year ; and not to have more than one Wife among two or three 
 Brothers, the eldeft whereof is accounted the Father of the Children. This 
 City alfo breeds abundance of Dancers, of both Sexes, that (bread themlelves all 
 over Perfia. 
 
 I come now to the Road from Candahar to Agra, through Caboul and Labor. 
 From Candahar to Charifafar , coftes io 
 From Charifafar to Zelate, coftes 12, 
 From Zelate to Betazjy, coftes 8 
 From Betazy to Mez.our, coftes 6 
 From Mez*onr to Carabaty coftes . 17 
 From Carabat to Cbakenicouz*e, coftes 17 
 From Candahar to Chakeniconz.e J a Frontier Town of the Indies, is a Coun- 
 try under the command of feveral Princes, that acknowledg the Perfian Em- 
 peror. 
 
 From Cbakenicouz*? to Caboul, coftes 40 
 
 In all thefe forty Coftes of way, there are but three pitiful Villages 5 where 
 fometimes, though very rarely, you have Bread and Barley for your Hories j 
 but the fureft way is to carry provifion along with you. In the Months of 
 ftdf and Auguft, there blows a hot Wind in rJhofe parts, that takes away a 
 mans breath, and kills him upon the place ; being of the fame nature with 
 thofe Winds, of which I have fpoken in my Perfian Relations, that blow at 
 certain feafons near Babylon and Moufful. 
 
 Caboul is a large City, very well fortified ; and is the place where thofe 
 of Vsbek^ come every year to fell their Horfes. They reckon, that there are 
 "bought and fold, every year, above fixty thoufand. t They bring alfo out of 
 Perfia, great numbers of Sheep, and other Cattel ; it being the general Con- 
 courfe of Per fans,- Tartarians, and Indians. There is alfo Wine to be had 3 
 but Provifions go off at a very good rate. 
 
 Before I go any farther, I muft take notice of one thing in particular, con- 
 cerning the people calPd Augans, who inhabit from Candahar to Caboul, to- 
 ward the Mountains of Balch, a fturdy fort of people, and great Robbers in 
 the night-time. It is the cuftom of the Indians to cleanfe and fcrape their tongues 
 every morning with a crooked piece of a root, which caufes them to void a great 
 quantity of Flegm and Rhume, and provokes vomiting. Now though thofe 
 people that inhabit the Frontiers of Perfia and India practice the fame thing j 
 neverthelefs they vomit very little in the morning, but when they come to eat, 
 as fbon as they have fwallowed two or three bits, their lungs begin to fwell, and 
 they are conftrain'd to go forth and vomit ; after which, they return again to 
 their Vi&uals with a very good appetite. Should they not do fo, they would 
 not live above thirty years ; and befides , they would be troubled with the 
 Dropfy. 
 
 From Caboul to Bariabe, coftes 19 
 From Bariabe to Nimela, coftes 17 
 From Nimela to Aliboua, coftes 19 
 From Aliboua to Taka, coftes 17 
 From Taka to Kiemri, coftes 6 
 From Kiemri to Chaour 3 coftes 14, 
 From Chaour to Novechaar, coftes 14 
 From Novechaar to Atek^, coftes 19 
 Atek^ is a City fituated upon a point of Land where two Rivers meet together. 
 'Tis one of the beft and ftrongeft Garrifons the Great Mogul has $ into which 
 there is no ftranger permitted to enter without a Paffport from the King. Father 
 £oux the Jefuit and his Companion, going this way to Ifpahan, and not having 
 the King's Paffport, were fore d to return back to Labor, where they cmbark'd 
 upon the River for Scimdi, from whence they paft into Perfia, 
 
 From At el^ to Calapane, coftes 1 6 
 
 From Calapane to Roupate, coftes 16 
 
 From 
 
Book I. 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 From Roupate to Toulapeca, coftes 1 g 
 
 From Toulapeca to Keraly, coftes j ^ 
 
 From Ker ah to Zerabad, coftes 
 
 From Zer abaci to Imiabad, coftes . 2 g 
 
 From Imiabad to Labor, coftes j g 
 
 ^ Labor is the Metropolis of a Kingdom, buiit upon one of the five Rivers that 
 defcend from the Mountains of the North to fwell the River Indus j and give 
 the name of Peniab to all the Region which they water, This River at this time 
 flows not within a league of the Town, being fubjeft to change its Channel, and 
 many times does very great mifchief to the adjoyning Fields, through the rapid 
 deluges which it makes. The C'ty is large, and extends it felf above°a league in 
 length. But the greateft part of the Houfes, which are higher than thofe of 
 Agra and Deli, fall to ruine^ by reafon of the excefllve rains that have overflowed 
 a great number of them. The King's Palace is an indifferent fair one, and is nor; 
 as formerly it was, upon the River, which is faJPn off above a quarter of a league 
 from it. There is Wine to be had at Labor. 
 
 I muft obferve by the by, that after you have paft Labor, and the Kingdom of 
 Kakemir, that lies upon it toward the North, none of their Women have any hair 
 upon any part of their bodies, and the Men but very little upon their chins. 
 From Labor to Menat-ban, coftes 
 
 From Menat-kan to Faty-abad, coftes iy 
 From Faty-abad Xo Sera-da^an, coftes 
 
 From Sera-dakan to Sera-balour, coftes 2 ^ 
 
 From Sera-balour to Sera-dourai, coftes j2 
 From Sera-dourai to Serinde^ Coftes - jj 
 
 From Serinde to Sera-Mogoul, coftes 1^ 
 From Sera-Mogoul to Sera-Cbabas, coftes 
 
 From Sera-Cbabas to Diranril, coftes 17 
 From Dirauril to Sera-Crindal, coftes 1^ 
 - From Sera-Crindal to Guienaour, coftes 21 
 From Guienaour to Debly, coftes 24 
 Before you go any farther, you are to take notice that all the way from Labor 
 to Debly, ami from Debly to Agra, is a continual Walk fet on both fides with fair 
 Trees ; an object molt pleafing to the fight : But in fbme places the Trees are 
 decaid, and there is no care taken to Plant others in their ftead. 
 
 Debly is a great City near the River Gemma, which runs from the North to 
 the South, afterwards from the Weft to the Eaft ; and after it has paft by Agra 
 and Kadione, empties it felf into the Gang-is. After Cba jeban had built the new 
 City of Gehanabad, which he calPd by his own Name ; and where he chofe rather 
 to keep his Court, than at Agra, becaufe the Climate is more temperate. Debly 
 is almoft come to ruine, and indeed is nothing but an heap of Rubbifh j there be- 
 ing no other Houfes remaining but only for poor people. The Streets are narrow, 
 and the Houfes of Bambouc, as over all the reft of the Indies. Neither are there 
 above three or four Lords of the Court that refide at Debly, where they fet up 
 their Tents in great Enclofures, and in the fame manner lodg'd the Reverend 
 Jefuit that was at Court. 
 
 Gebanabad , as well as Debly, is a great City ; and there is nothing but a fingle 
 Wall that makes the feparation. All the Houfes of particular men confiit of great 
 Enclofures, in the midft whereof is the place for Lodgings. The greateft part of 
 the Lords do not live in the City, but have their Houfes without, for the con- 
 veniency of the water. As you enter into Gebanabad from Debly, you meet with 
 a long and broad Street, on each fide whereof are Vaults, where the Merchants 
 keep mops, being only plat-form'd at the top. This ftreet ends in the great Ptazz.a 
 before the King's Houfe ; and there is another very fair and large Street, that 
 runs toward another Gate of the fame Palace, in which live the great Merchants 
 that keep no Shops. 
 
 The King's Palace takes up above half a league in circuit : The Walls are of 
 fair cut-Stone with Battlements. The Moats are full of water,- pav'd with Free- 
 ftone. The great Gate of the Palace has nothing in it of magnificence, j no more 
 than the firft Ceurt, into which the great Lords may enter upon their Elephants. 
 
 Having 7 
 
Travels in India. Part II. 
 
 Having paft that Court, you enter into another long and large paflage, with fair 
 Portico's on both fides. Under which are feveral little Chambers, where part of 
 the Horfe-Guard lies. Thefe Portico's are rais'd fome two foot above the ground, 
 and the Horfes which are ti'd without, feed upon the fteps. In fome places there 
 are great Gates that lead to feveral Apartments j as to the Womens Lodgings, 
 and to the Seat of Juftice. In the rnidft of the paflage runs a Cut full of water, 
 leaving a fair Walk on each fide, where, at equal diftances, are little Bafons or 
 Fountains. 
 
 This long Paflage carries you into a great Court, where the Omra's, that is to 
 fay, the great Lords of the Kingdom, fuch as the hafha's in Turkey, and the Kan's 
 in Perfia, keep Guard in Perfon. Thq' have low Lodgings round about the Court, 
 and their Horfes are ti'd to their doors. 
 
 From this fecond Court you pafs into a third, through a great Portal ; on one 
 fide whereof there is a little Hall, rais'd fome two or three itc ps high from the 
 ground. This is the Wardrobe where the Royal Garmei ts are kept; and from 
 whence the King fends for the CaLat, or a whole Habit for a man, when he 
 would honour any Stranger, or any one of his own Subjects. A little farther, un- 
 der the fame Portal, is the place where the Drums, Trumpets, and Hautboys are 
 laid up ; which they found and beat a little before the King enters into his Judg- 
 ment-Seat, to give notice to the Omrah's ; and they make the fame noife when 
 the King is ready to rife. Entring into the third Court, you fee the Divan before 
 you, where the King gives Audience. This is a great Hall rais'd lome four-foot- 
 high above the fuperncies of the Court, with three fides open. Thirty-two Pil- 
 lars fuftain as many Arches ; and thefe Columns are about four-foot-fquare, with 
 Pedeftals and Mouldings. When Cha-jeban firft began to build this Hall_, he in- 
 tended to have enrich'd it, and inlaid it all over with thofe Stones that ieem to be 
 naturally painted, like thofe in the Great Duke of %/fcanfs Chappel. But having 
 made a trial upon two or three Pillars, about two or three-foot-high, he found 
 that there would not be Stones enough, of that fort, in the World to finifh the 
 work j befides the vaftnefs of the Sum it would come to. So that he left off 
 his defign, contenting himfelf with a Painting of feveral flowers. 
 
 In the middle of this Hall, next to the fide which looks toward the Court, 
 there is a Throne erected upon a kind of Theater, where the King gives Audience, 
 and pronounces Judgment. The Throne is a little Bed, with four Columns, about 
 the bignefs of one of our Field-Beds, with a Canopy, Backpiece, Boulfter and 
 Counterpoint, all embroider'd with Diamonds. Befides all this, when the King 
 comes to fit upon the Throne, they throw over the Bed a Coverlet of Cloath of 
 Gold, or fome other richly-embroider'd Silk j and he afcends by three little 
 fteps, two-foot-broad. On one fide of the Bed is erefted an Vmbrello upon 
 a Staff, as long as an Half-Pike. Upon one of the Pillars of the Throne hangs 
 one of the King's Weapons ; upon another his Buckler ; upen another his Sci- 
 metar j and then his Bow and Quiver of Arrows, and other things of the fame na- 
 ture. 
 
 Below the Throne there is a place fome twenty-foot-fquare, encompaft witfa 
 Balufters, which at fome times are cover'd with Plates of Silver, at other times 
 with Plates of Gold. At the four Corners of this fmall encloliire fit the four Se- 
 cretaries of State, who as well in Civil as Criminal Caufes, do the duty of Ad- 
 vocates. Many Lords ftand about this Balultrade ; and there is alfo the MuficK 
 plac'd, that plays all the while the King is in the Divan. This Mufick is fb fweec 
 and foft, that it never takes otf the mind from the lerioufnefs of bulinefs at that 
 time manag'd. The King being fat upon his Throne, fome great Lord ftands by 
 him ; generally it is fome one of his own Children. Between eleven a Clock 
 and Noon., the Nahab, who is the chief Minifter of State, like the Grand Vizier 
 in Tarkey, makes a report to the King of what has paft in the Chamber where he 
 Prefides, which is at the Entry of the firft Court ; and when he has done (peak- 
 ing, the King rifes. For you muft take notice, that from the time that the King 
 is fate upon his Throne, till he rifes, no perfon whatfoever is permitted to ftir out 
 of the Palace j and yet I can fay that the King difpene'd with my performance of 
 this Law fo generally obferv'd by all the Court : The occafion whereof was thus 
 in (hort. 
 
 Being 
 
Book! Travels in India. 
 
 47 
 
 Being one day going out of the Palace,while the King was fitting in the Divan. 
 upon fome urgent bufinefs that would admit of no delay, the Captai of the 
 Guards held me by the arm, and told me I fhould go no farther ; I contefted and 
 argued the Cafe with him for fome time, but finding his ufage to be very boifte- 
 rous, I lifted up my Cane, and had certainly ftrook him in my paffion, had not two 
 or three of the Guards that faw all the paffages., held my hand. Happily for me 
 at that time,the Nahab, who was then the King's llnckle, came by, and being in- 
 formed of the ground of our quarrel 3 order'd the Captain of the Guards to Jet 
 me go. After that he made a report to the King how the matter itood ; and to- 
 ward evening the Nahab fent me one of his Servants to tell me, it was his Ma- 
 jefty's pleafure, that I might come in or go out of the Palace, though he were 
 fitting in the Divan, as I pleas'd my felf 3 for which I went the next day, and re- 
 turn'd thanks to the Nahab. 
 
 Toward the middle of the fame Court there is a fma.Il Channel fom'e five or 
 fix inches broad, where while the King is fitting upon the Seat of Juftice, they 
 that have bufinefs are to ftand. Further it is not lawful for them to go, till they 
 are call'd j and Embaffadors themfelves are not exempted from this cuftom. 
 When an Embalfador comes as far as this Channel, the Mafter of the Ceremonies 
 calls out toward the Divan where the King is fitting, that fuch an Embalfador 
 craves Audience of his Majefty. Then one of the Secretaries of State declares 
 it to the King ; who oftentimes makes as if he did not hear : But fome time after 
 lifting up his eyes, he cafts them upon the EmbafTador, making him a fign by the 
 fame Secretary, that he may approach. 
 
 From the Hall of the Divan, turning to the left, you walk upon a Terrafs, 
 where you difcover the River. Over this Terrafs the King paffes into a little 
 Chamber, from whence he goes into his Haram. In this little Chamber it was 
 that I had my firft Audience of his Majefty ; as I fhall relate in another 
 place. 
 
 Upon the left-hand of the Court where the Divan is built, ftands a little 
 Mofquee neatly built ; the Cupola whereof is cover'd with Lead perfectly guilded. 
 Here the King goes to hear Prayers every day, except it be Fridays, when he is 
 to go to the great Mofquee } which is a very fair one, and plac'd upon an high 
 Platform, rais'd higher than the Houfes of the City, and there is a noble afcent to 
 it. That day that the King goes to the Mofquee, they place huge rails of wood 
 round about the fteps, as well to keep off the Elephants, as out of refped to the 
 Mofquee. 
 
 The right-fide of the Court is taken up with Portico's, that make a long Gal- 
 lery, rais'd from the ground about half a foot ; and thefe are the King's Stables, y 
 into which you have many doors to enter. They are alfo full of ftately Horfes, 
 the worft whereof ftands the King in three-thouland Crowns j and there are 
 fome that coft him ten-thoufand. At the door of every one of thefe Stables 
 hangs a kind of Mat made of Bambouc, that cleaves like our Ofiers. But where- 
 as we bind our Ofier-twigs with the fame Ofier, they bind their Bambouc s with 
 wreath'd-Silk, which is delicate work, but very tedious. Thefe Mats are to hin- 
 der the Flies from tormenting the Horfes ; there being two Grooms to an Horfe, 
 one of which is ftill employ 'd in fanning the Beaft. There are alfb Mats (bread 
 before the Portico's, and before the Stable-door ; which they fpread or take 
 away as occafion requires. And the Floor of the Gallery is cover'd with fair 
 Carpets, which is taken away in the evening, and the Horfes Litter ftrow'd in 
 the fame place. Which Litter is nothing but the Horfe-dung dri'd in the Sun, and 
 then fqueez'd a little flat. The Horfes that are brought into India either out of 
 Perfia, Arabia, or the Countrey of Vsbecb, change their food : For in India they 
 never give them Hay nor Oats. Every Horfe in the morning having for his pro- 
 portion three loaves made of Meal, Wheat, and Butter, as big as one of our fix- 
 penny-loaves. 'Tis an hard matter to bring them to this diet at firft ; it being 
 fometimes three or four Months before they can do it. The Groom is fore'd to 
 hold their tongue in one hand, and to thruft down the bread with the other. 
 When Sugar-Canes or Millet are in feafon, they give them that diet about noon } 
 and in the evening, two hours before Sun-fet, they give them a meafure of Gar- 
 den-Chiches which the Groom fqueezes between two ftones, and mixes with wa- 
 
Travels in India. Part II. 
 
 ter. This is inftead of Barley and Oats. As for the Kings other Stables, where 
 he has alfo very fine Horfes, they are fcurvy places, ill-built, which deferve not to 
 be mention'd. 
 
 The Gemene is a fair River that bears good big Boats, which running to Agra 
 lofes its name, falling into Ganges at Hallabas. The King has feveral fmall bri- 
 gantines at Gehanabad upon the River, to take his pleafure in ; and they are very 
 curioufly trimm'd after the manner of the Countrey. 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 The continuance of the fame Road from Dehly to Agra. 
 
 T^Rom Dehly to Badelpoura, coftes 8 
 A From Badelpoura to Pelvel-ki-fera, coftes 1 8 
 
 From Pelvel-ki-fera to Cotki-fera, coftes if 
 From Cotki-fera to Cheki-fera, coftes 1 6 
 
 At Cheki-fera is one of the greateft Pagods of the Indians, together with an 
 Hofpital for Apes 5 as well for thofe that breed there-abouts, as for thofe that 
 come from the neighbouring-parts, which the Banians are very careful to feed. 
 This Pagod is call'd Matura, and it was formerly in far greater veneration than 
 it is at this day. The reafon is, becaufe the Gemene ran then juft at the very foot 
 of the Pagod j wherein the Banians, as well thofe of the Countrey, as thole that 
 came from remote parts in Pilgrimage, had the convenience to warn themtelves 
 before they went to their Devotions ; and when they had perform'd them, to 
 warn again before they eat ; which they are not to do ere they have wafh'd j be- 
 lieving alfo that if they warn in running-water, their fins will be the more eafily 
 defac'd. But fome years fince the River, changing its courfe more to the North- 
 ward, comes not within a good league of the Pagod, which is the. reafon that the 
 Pilgrims have deferted it. 
 
 From Cheki-fera to Goodkj-fera, coftes j 
 From Goodkj-fera to -Agra, coftes 6 
 Agra lies in 27 deg. 3 1 min. of Lat. and in a Sandy-foil, which caufes extre- 
 mity of heat. It is the biggeft City in India, and formerly the Refidence of their 
 Kings. The Houfes of great Perfons are fair, and well-built ; but the Houles of 
 the meaner-fort are as plain, as in all the other Cities of India. They are built a 
 good diftance one from another, and hid by the height of their Walls, to keep 
 their Women from being feen: So that it may be eafily conje&ur'd that their 
 Cities are nothing fo plealant as ours in Europe. Add to this, that Agra being en- 
 compaft round with the Sands, the heats are there very exceflive, which con- 
 ftrain'd Cha-jeban to remove from thence, and to keep his Court at Gehanabad. 
 
 All that is remarkable in Agra is the King's Palace ; and fome Monuments as 
 well near the City, as in the parts about it. The Palace of the King is a vaft piece 
 of ground encompaft with a double- wall, which is terrafs'd in fome parts, and 
 in thofe parts are built certain Lodgings for fome of the Officers of the 
 Court : The Gemeue runs before the Palace ; but between the Wall and the 
 River there is a large fpace of ground, where the King caufes his Elephants to 
 fight. This Field is on purpofe near the water, becaufe that the Elephant which 
 gets the victory, being in a fury, they could not bring him to himfelf, did they 
 not drive him into the River : to which end they are forc'd to have recourfe to 
 Policy, by tying Squibs and Crackers to the end of an Half-Pike, and then giving 
 fire to them to fright him into the water : for when he is in but two or three- 
 foot-deep, he is prefently appeas'd. 
 
 There is a wide Piaz,z,a upon one fide of the City before the Palace, and the 
 firft Gate, wherein there is nothing of magnificence, is guarded by a few Soul- 
 diers. Before the King removed his Court from Agra to Gehanabad, when he 
 went into the Countrey for fome time, he gave to fome one of his greateft 
 Omrab'si who was his Confident, the Guard of his Palace, where his Treafure lay $ 
 
 and 
 
Book- 1 Travels in India. 
 
 and till the return of the King he never ftirr.'d out of the Gate, where he lodg'd, 
 neither by night nor day. At fuch a time as that it was, that I was permitted to 
 fee the Palace of Agra. The King being departed for Gehanabad, whither all the 
 Court followed him, together with the Women, the Government of the Palace 
 was given to one that was a great Friend to the Hollanders, and indeed to all the 
 Frangttis. Menheir Velant, chief of the Holland-Factory at Agra, fo foon as the 
 King was departed, went to vifit the Lord, and to prefent him according to 
 cuftom. The Prefent was worth about 6000 Crowns, and confifted in Spices, 
 Cabinets of fapan, and fine Holland-Qoaih. He defir'd me to go along with 
 him when he went to Compliment the Governour. But the Lord being offended 
 that he had put himfelf to fo much charge, forc'd him to carry the Prefent back 
 again, taking only one Japan-Cane, of fix that were in the Prefent, telling him he 
 would have no more, out of the kindnefs which he had for the Franguiz,. Nay, 
 he would not fo much as take the Gold-head and Ferula, but caus'd them to be 
 taken off. The Complements being over, the Governor ask'd Menheir Felant^ 
 wherein he might ferve him : whereupon he defiring the favour, that fince the? 
 Court was gone, he might fee the infide of the Palace, the Governor granted his 
 requefti and order'd fix men to attend him. 
 
 The firft Gate where the Governor of the Palace lies, is a long blind Arch, 
 which leads you into a large Court all environ'd with Portico's ; like our ■Piaz.tk 
 in Covent-Garden. The Gallery in front is larger and higher than any of the reft, 
 fuftain'd by three ranks of Pillars, and under thofe Galleries on the other fide of 
 the Court which are narrower and lower, are little Chambers for the Souldiers 
 of the Guard. In the midft of the large Gallery, is a Nich in the Wail, into 
 which the King defcends out of his Haram by a private pair of Stairs, and 
 when he is in, he feems to be in a kind of a Tomb. He has no Guards with him 
 thea, for he has no reafon to be afraid of any thing; there being no way to 
 come at him. In the heat of the day he keeps himfelf there only with one 
 Eunuch, but more often with one of his Children, to fan him. The Great Lords 
 of the Court ftay below in the Gallery under the Nich all the while. 
 
 At the farther end of this Court is another Gate that leads into a fecond 
 Court encompaft with Galleries, underneath which, are little Chambers for fome 
 Officers of the Palace. The fecond Court carries you into a third, which is the 
 King's Quarter. Cha-jehan had refolv'd to cover with Silver all the Arch of a 
 Gallery upon the right-hand. And a French-man, Auftin de Bordeaux by name., 
 was to have done the work : but the King not finding any one in his whole King- 
 dom fo capable as the French-man was to treat with the Portugal* at Goa about 
 fome important affair he had at that time ; the defign was laid afide : For they 
 being afraid of Auftitfs Parts, poifon'd him upon his return to Cochin. This Gal- 
 lery is painted with branch'd-work of Gold and Azure, and the lower-part is 
 hung with Tapeftry. There are feveral doors under the Gallery that lead into 
 little fquare-Chambers ; of which we faw two or three open'd, and they told us 
 all the reft were fuch. The other three fides of the Court lie all open, there be- 
 ing nothing but a fingle Wall, no higher than for a man to lean over. On the 
 fide that looks toward the River there is a Divan, or a kind of out-jutting Bal- 
 cone, where the King fits to fee his Brigantines,, or to behold his Elephants fight. 
 Before the Divan is a Gallery, that ferves for a Portico ; which Cha-jchan had a 
 defign to have adorn'd all over with a kind of Lattice-work of Emfaulds and Ru- 
 bies that mould have reprefented to the life Grapes when they are green,and when 
 they begin to grow red. But this defign which made fuch a noife in the World, 
 and requir'd more Riches, than all the World could afford to perfect, remains 
 unfiniih'd ; there being only three Stocks of a Vine in Gold, with their leaves, as 
 the reft ought to have been ; and enamel'd in their 5 natural colours, with Em- 
 ralds, Rubies and Granates wrought into the fafhion Of Grapes. In the middle 
 of the Court ftands a great Fat to bath in, 40 foot in Diameter, cut out of one 
 entire grey-ftone, withfteps wrought out of the fame ftone within and with- 
 out. 
 
 As for the Monuments which are in and about Agra, they are very fair ones j 
 for there is fcarce an Eunuch belonging to the King's Haram, that is not very 
 ambitious of leaving a fair Monument behind him.. Indeed, when they have, 
 
 * H heap'd' 
 
Travels in India. 
 
 PartH 
 
 heap'd together great Sums, they would fain be going to Mecca, and ma- 
 king rich Prelents to Mahomet. But the Great Mogul, unwilling to let his 
 Money go out of his Countrey, will feldom permit them leave to undertake 
 that Pilgrimage : and therefore not knowing what to do with their Money, 
 they employ a great part thereof in Monuments, to perpetuate their Memo- 
 ries. 
 
 Of all the Monuments that are to be feen at 4gra, that of the Wife of 
 Cba-]eban is the moft magnificent 3 fhe caus'd it to be let up on purpole near 
 the Tafimacan, to which all Strangers muft come, that they mould admice it. 
 The Tafimacan is a great Bazar, or Market-place, compos'd of fix great Courts, 
 all encompafied with Portico's ■ under which there are Warehoules for Mer- 
 chants 5 and where there is a prodigious quantity of Calicuts vended. The 
 Monument of this Begum, or Sultanefs, ftands on the Eaft-fide of the City., 
 upon the River fide, in a great place encloled with Walls, upon which there 
 runs a little Gallery, as upon the Walls of many Cities in Europe. Ihis place 
 is a kind of Garden with Compartiments, like our Garden-plots ; but whereas 
 our Walks are made with Gravel, here the Walks are black and white Marble. 
 You enter into this place through a large Portal j and prefently upon the left 
 hand you efpy a fair Gallery, that looks towards Mtcca; wherein there are 
 three or four Niches, wherein the Mufti comes at certain hours to pray. A 
 little beyond the middle of the place, toward the Water, are three great Plat- 
 forms, one rais'd above another, with four Towers at the four Corners of each, 
 and Stairs within, upon the top whereof they call the people before the time 
 of their prayer. On the top there is a Cupola, little lels magnificent than that 
 of Val de Grace in Paris it is cover'd within and without with black Marble, 
 the middle being of Brick. Under this CvpoL is an empty Tomb; for the Be- 
 gum is inter'd under the Arch of the loweft Platform. The fame change of 
 Ceremonies which is obferv'd under ground, is obferv'd above. For they change 
 the Tapeftries, Candles, and other Ornaments at feveral times, and there arc 
 always Mollatis attending to pray. I law the beginning and compleating of 
 this great work, that coir two and twenty years labour, and twenty thoufand 
 men always at work ; fo that you cannot conceive but that the Expence mult 
 be exceilive. Cba-jehan had begun to raifc his own Monument on the other 
 fide of the River ; but the Wars with his Son, broke off that defign, nor did 
 Aurengzeb, now reigning, ever take any care to finifli it. There is an Eunuch 
 who commands two thoufand men, that is entrufted to guard not only the 
 Sepulcher of the Begum, but alfo the Tafimacan. 
 
 On another fide of the City, appears the Sepulcher of King Akabar. And 
 as for the Sepulchers of the Eunuchs, they have only one PlatfbFm, with four 
 little Chambers at the four Corners. When you come to Agra from Dehly t 
 you meet a great Bazar ; near to which there is a Garden, where King fehan- 
 guire, Father of Cha-jehan, lies interr'd. Over the Garden Gate you fee the 
 Tomb it (elf, belet with Portraitures, cover'd with a black Hearfe-Cloath, or 
 Pall, with Torches of white Wax, and two fefutts attending at each end. There 
 are fome who wonder, that Cha-jehan againft the practice of the Mahumetans t 
 who abhor Images, did permit of carving | but the reafon conjectur'd at is> 
 that it is done upon the confideration that his Father and himlelf learnt from 
 the Jejuites certain principles of Mathematicks and Aftrology. Though he had 
 not the fame kindnefs for them at another time j for going one day to 
 vifit an Armenian, that lay fick, whole name was Corgia, whom he lov'd very 
 well, and had honour'd with feveral Employments, at what time the Jefmtes % 
 who liv'd next to the Armenians houle, rang their Bell j the found thereof fo 
 difpleas'd the King, as being a difturbance to the fick perlbn, that in a great 
 fury he commanded the £ell to be taken away, and hung about his Elephants 
 neck. Some few days after, the King feeing his Elephant with that great 
 Bell about his neck, fearing lb great a weight might injure his Elephant, caus'd 
 the Bell to be carried to the Couteval, which is a kind of a rail'd place, where 
 a Provolt fits as a Judg, and decides differences among the people of that 
 Quarter, where it has hung ever fince. This Armenian had been brought up 
 with Cha-jehan j and in regard he was an excellent Wit, and an excellent Poet* 
 
Book I Travels in India. 51 
 
 he was very much in the Kings favour, who had confer'd upon him many fair 
 Commands, though he could never either by threats or promifes win him to 
 turn Mahometan. 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 The Road from Agra to Patna, and Daca, Cities in the Trozince of 
 Bengala, and of the Quarrel which the Author had with Cha-Eft- 
 Kan, the Kings Vnckle. 
 
 I Departed from Agra toward Bengala the 25 th of November i66$, and that 
 day I reach'd no farther than a very bad Inn, diftant from Agra, coftes 3 
 The 2.6th I came to Beruz.abad, coftes 9 
 This is a little City where,at my return^ received eight thoufand Roupies,being 
 the remainder of the Money which Giafer-Kan ow'd me for Wares that he had 
 bought at fanabat. 
 
 The zjth to Serael Morlides, coftes 9 
 The 7&th to Serail Eftanja, coftes 14 
 The z$th to Serail Haii-mal, coftes 12 
 The 10th. to Serail Sekandera 3 coftes 13 
 The ifi of December to Sanqual, coftes 14 
 I met that day 1 ioWaggons,every Waggon drawn by fixOxen,& in every Waggon 
 joooo Roupies. This is the Revenue of the Provinceof -tfewgrf/^with all charges de- 
 fraid, and the Governor's Purfe well-fill'd, comes to 00000 Roupies. A league 
 beyond Sanqual, you muft pals a River call'd Saingour 3 which runs into Gemine, not 
 above half a league diftant from it. You pais over this River of Saingonr upon 
 a Stone-bridg, and when you come from toward Bengala to go to Seronge or Su- 
 rat, if you have a mind to ftiorten your journey ten day?, you muft leave Agra- 
 Road, and come to this Bridg, and fo Ferry over Gemine in a Boat. But generally 
 Agra-Kozd is taken, becaufe the other way you muft travel five or fix. days to- 
 gether upon the ftones ; and alfo for that you are to pate through the Territories 
 of certain Raja's, where you are in danger of being robb'd. 
 The fecond day I came to an Inn call'd Cherourabad, coftes iz 
 When you are got about half the way, you pafs through Gianabad, a little 
 City, near to which, about a quarter of a League on this fide, crofTmg a Field 
 of Millet, I faw a Rhinoceros feeding upon Millet-Canes , which a little Boy 
 of nine or ten years old gave him to eat. When I came near the Boy, he 
 gave me fome Millet to give the Rhinoceros j who immediately came to me, open-* 
 ing his chops three or four times j I put the Millet into his mouth, and when he 
 had fwallow'd it, he ftill open'd his mouth for more. 
 The 3^ I came to Serrail Chajeada, coftes 10 
 The 4/ h to Serrail Atakan, coftes 1-3 
 The yh to Aureng-Abad, coftes 9 
 Formerly this Village had another name ; but being the place where Aureng- 
 x.eb gave Battel to his Brother Sultan Sujah, who was Governor of all the Pro- 
 vince of Bengala $ Aureng-z.eb, in Memory of the Viftory he had won, gave it 
 his own name, and built there a very fair Houfe, with a Garden, and a little 
 
 Mojquce. 
 
 The 6th to Alinchan, coftes 9 
 Two leagues on this fide Alinchan, you meet the River Ganges. Monfieur Ber~ 
 nier the King's Phyfitian, and another perfon whofc name was Rachepot, with 
 whom I travell'd, were amaz'd to fee, that a River that had fmade fuch a noifc 
 in the World, was no broader than the River Seine, before the Lowe-, be- 
 lieving before, that it had been as wide as the Danaw above Belgrade. There is 
 alfo fo little water in it from March to fune or fulj, when the rains fall, that it 
 will not bear a (mall Boat. When we came to Ganges, we drank every one of us a 
 
 * H 2 ' GIa£ 
 
$ 2 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Part II. 
 
 Glafs of Wine, mixing fome of the River-water with it ; which caus'd a griping 
 in our bellies : But our Servants that drank it alone, were worfe tormented than 
 we. The Hollanders, who have an Houfe upon the Bank of Ganges 3 never drink 
 the water of this River, until they have boil'd it. But for the natural Inhabitants 
 of the Countrey, they are fo accuftom'd to it from their youth, that the King 
 and the Court drink no other. You fhall fee a vaft number of Camels every 
 day, whole bufinefs only it is to fetch water from the Ganges. 
 
 The "jtb, I came to Halabas, coftes 8 
 Halabas is a great City, built upon a point of Land where Ganges and Ge- 
 mine meet. There is a fair Caftle of hew'n Stone, with a double Moat j where 
 the Governour refides. He is one of the greateft Lords in India - t and being 
 very fickly, he has always about him ten Perfian Phyficians. He had alio in 
 his fervice, Claudius Maille of Bourges, who practifes Chyrurgery and Phylick 
 both together. This was he that advis'd us not to drink of Ganges Water, 
 which would put us into a loofenefs ; but rather to drink Well-water. The 
 chief of thefe Perfian Phyficians, whom this Governour hires with his Money, 
 one day threw his Wife from the top of a Battlement to the ground ; prompt- 
 ed to that act of cruelty , by fome jealoufies he had entertain a. He thought 
 the fall had kill'd her, but fhe had only a Rib or two bruis'd 5 whereupon the 
 Kindred of the Woman came and demanded juftice, at the feet of the Gover- 
 nour. The Governour fending for the Phyfician, commanded him to be gone, 
 refolving to retain him no longer in his fervice. The Phyfician. obey'd, and 
 putting his maim'd Wife in a Pallanquin, he fet forward upon the Road with 
 all his Family. But he was not gone above three or four days journey from 
 the City, when the Governour rinding himfelf worle than he was wont to be, 
 lent to recall him ; which the Phyfician perceiving, ftab'd his Wife, his four 
 Children, and thirteen female Slaves, and return'd again to the Governour, who 
 faid not a word to him, bat entertain'd him again into his lervice. 
 
 The eighth day i crols d the River in a large Boat, having itay'd from mora* 
 ing till noon up m che bank- fide, expecting Monfieur Madle, to bring meaPafs- 
 port from the Governour. For there ftands a Denga upon each fide of the 
 River, who will not fuTfer any perfon to pals without leave $ and he takes no- 
 tice what fort of Goods are tranfported j there being due from every Waggon 
 four RoupieSj and from every Coach one ; not accounting the charge of the 
 Boat, which you muft pay beiide. The fame day I went to Sadoui-fcrad, coftes 16 
 The ninth, to Takedel-fera, coftes lo 
 The tenth, to Bottraki-fira, coftes 10 
 The eleventh, to Banarou, coftes 10 
 BanaroH is a large City, and handfomly built j the moft part of the Houfes 
 being either of Brick or Stone, and higher than in any other Cities of India - t 
 but the inconveniency is, that the Streets are very narrow. There are many 
 Inns in the Town ; among' the reft, one very large, and very handfomely built. 
 In the middle of the Court are two Galleries, where are to be fold Galicuts, 
 Silks, and other forts of Merchandife. The greateft part of the Sellers, are 
 the Workmen themfelvesj fo that the Merchants buy at the firit hand. Thefe 
 Workmen, before they expofe any thing to fale, muft go to him that has the 
 ftamp, to have the Kings Seal let upon their Linnen and Silks j otherwife they 
 would be fin'd, and lambafted with a good Cudgel. This City is fcituated 
 upon the North fide of Ganges, that runs by the Walls, and into which there 
 falls alfo another River, fome two Leagues upward toward the Weft. I n Banarott 
 ftands one of the Idolaters principal Pagods, whereof I mall (peak in my fecond 
 Book, when I come to treat of the Religion of the Banians. 
 
 About five hundred paces from the City Northward, there is a Mofquee t 
 where are to be feen many Mahometan Sepulchers j whereof fome are very 
 curious pieces of Architecture. The faireft are every one in the middle of a 
 Garden enclofed with Walls, wherein there are Holes fome half a foot Iquare, 
 through which Paflengers may have a fight of the Tomb within. The moft 
 confiderable of all is as it were a four fquare Pedeftal, every Iquare whereof 
 is forty paces wide. In the midft of this Platform rifes a Column thirty-two 
 or thirry-five foot high, all of a piece, which three men can hardly embrace. 
 
 The 
 
Book I. 
 
 Travels m India. 
 
 The Stone is of a grey colour, and fo hard that I could not fcrape it with my 
 Knife. As it is Pyramidical, there is a great Bowl at the top, which is en- 
 compafs'd at the upper end with huge Grains of Wheat. AH the fronts of 
 the Tomb are full of figures of Animals cut in the Stone ; and it has been 
 higher above ground than now it feems to be, for feveral old men, that look'd 
 to fome of the Sepulchers, aflur'd me, that within thefe fifty years it had funk 
 above thirty foot into the Earth. They tell you moreover, that it is the Se- 
 pulcher of one of the Kings of Boutan, who was interr'd here afrer he had left 
 his own Countrey to conquer this Kingdom, out of which he was driven by 
 the SuccetTors of Tamerlane. The Kingdom of Boutan is the place from whence 
 they fetch Musk, and I will give you a defcription of it in my third Book. 
 
 I ftay'd at Banarou the 12th and 13^5 and during thofe two days it rain'd 
 continually, but not fo as to ftop my journey j fo that the evening of the thir- 
 teenth day I crofs'd the Gauges, with the Governours Pafs+port. Before you 
 go into the Boat, they fearch the Travellers baggage j wearing Apparel how- 
 ever pays nothing of Cuftom, but only Merchandife, 
 
 The i$th, I went to Baterpour, coftes i 
 The 14^, to Satraguy-fera, coftes 8 
 The *<)th } to Moniarfy-flra, coftes 9 
 The fame day in the morning, after I had travePd two Leagues, I crofs'd a 
 River call'd Camafarfou j and three Leagues from thence I crofs'd another, 
 which they call Saode-fou ; both which I foarded. 
 
 The 1 6th, to Gonrmabad, coftes # 
 This is a Town upon a River call'd Goudsra-fou, which is crofs'd over a Stone- 
 Bridg. 
 
 The ijth, to Saferon, coftes 4 
 Saferon is a City at the foot of certain Mountains, near to which there is 
 a. great Lake. In the middle whereof there is a fmall Ifland, with a fair Mofquee 
 built upon it $ wherein is to be feen, the Sepulcher of a Nahab or Favourite, 
 call'd Selim-Kan 5 who built it when he was Governour of the Province. There 
 is a fair Bridg to crofs over into the Ifland, pav'd and lin'd with large free 
 Stone. Upon one fide of the Lake is a great Garden, in the middle whereof 
 5s another fair Sepulcher of the Son of the fame Nabab, Selim-Kan, who fuc- 
 ceeded his Father in the Government of the Province. If you would go to 
 the Mine of Soulmelpour, whereof I fhall fpeak in the laft Book of thefe Re- 
 lations, you muft leave the great Road to Patna, and bend to the South through 
 JExberlourgh, and the famous Fortrefs of Rbodejj of which I fhall treat jn the 
 fame place. 
 
 The 1 8*7.>, I ferry'd in a Boat over the River Sonfou, which defcends from 
 the Southern Mountains ; after you have crofs'd it, the Merchandifc pays a cer- 
 tain Toll. 
 
 The fame day I travel'd on to Daotid-Nagar-fera , where there is a fair 
 Tomb, coftes 9 
 The 19th, to Halva-fera, coftes 10 
 The zoth, to j4ga-fera, coftes 1 9 
 In the morning I met a hundred and thirty Elephants^ great and fmall, which 
 they were leading to Dehli to the great Mogul. 
 The one and twentienth, to Patna, coftes 10 
 Patna is one of the greateft Cities of India, upon the Bank of Ganges, to- 
 ward the Weft $ not being lefs than two Leagues in length. But the Houfes 
 are no fairer than in the greateft part of the other Cities of India j being 
 cover'd with Bambouck., or Straw. The Holland Company have a Houfe there, 
 by reafon of .their Trade in Saltpeter, which they refine at a great Town call'd 
 Choupar, which is alfo fcituated upon Ganges, ten Leagues above Patna. 
 
 Coming to Patna, we met the Hollanders, in the Street returning from Chou- 
 par, who ftop'd our Coaches to falute us. We did not part, till we had emptied 
 two Bottles of Schiras Wine in the open Street j which is not taken notice of 
 in that Country, where people meet with an entire freedom without any Cere- 
 mony. . 
 I ftay'd eight days at Patna } during which time there fell out an accident, 
 
 which: 
 
54 
 
 Travels in India. Part. II. 
 
 which will let rhe Reader underftand, that Sodomy does not go altogether un- 
 punifh'd among the Mahumetans. A Mimbachi, who commanded a thouland 
 Foot, went about to abufe a young Boy in his fervice ; and who had feveral 
 times refilled his attempts ; complaining alfo to the Governour, and telling 
 him withall, that if his Mafter perfifted to urge him any more, he would cer- 
 tainly kill him. At length the Captain took his opportunity, at a Houfe which 
 he had in the Country, and forcM the Boy. The Boy o'rewhelm'd with grief 
 and rage, took his opportunity alfo to revenge himfelf ; and being one day hunt- 
 ing with his Mafter, about a quarter of a League from any of his other Ser- 
 vants, he got behind him,, and cleft his head with his Hanger. After he had 
 done, he rode full fpeed to the City, crying out all the way, that he had kilPd 
 his Mafter for fuch a reafon ; and went immediately to the Governours Lodg- 
 ing, who fent him to prifon ; but he let him out at the end of fix months j 
 and notwithftanding all the endeavours which the Captains Kindred us'd to have 
 had him put to death, the Governour durft not condemn him, for fear of the 
 people, who affirm'd that the Boy had done well. 
 
 I parted from Patna in a Boat for Daca , the nine and twentieth of Janu- 
 ary t between eleven and twelve at noon ; and had the River been deep, as it 
 ufes to be after the Rains, I had taken Boat at Hallabas, or at leaft at Ba- 
 narou. 
 
 The fame day I came to lye at fera-Beconcour, coftes ij 
 Five Leagues on this fide Beconcour, you meet with a River call'd Pompon- 
 fou, which comes from the South, and falls into Ganges. 
 
 The thirtieth to Sera-d' Erija, coftes 17 
 The one and thirtieth, after we had travel'd four Leagues, or thereabout, 
 we met with the River Kaoa, which comes from the South. Three Leagues 
 lower, you meet with another River call'd Cbanon, which comes from the 
 North. Four Leagues farther, you difcover the River Erguga, which runs from 
 the South j and at length, fix Leagues beyond, the River Aquera, falling from 
 the fame part of the World ; all which four Rivers lofc their Names in the 
 Ganges. All that day I faw great Mountains toward the South, diftant from 
 Ganges fbmetimes ten, and fbmetimes fifteen Leagues, till at length I came 
 to lodg in Monger-City, coftes 18 
 The firft day of January, 1666, after I had gone by Water two hours, I few 
 the Gandet fall into the Ganges, flowing from the North, This is a great Ri* 
 ver, that carries Boats. 
 
 That eveining I lay at Zangira, coftes 8 
 But in regard of the winding of Ganges all that days journey, I might well 
 reckon them by Water two and twenty Leagues. 
 
 The fecond day, from between fix in the morning till eleven, I faw three 
 Rivers that threw rhemfelves into Ganges j all three defcending from the North. 
 The firft is call'd Ronova, the fecond Tae, the third Chanan. 
 I came to lye at Baquelpour, coftes r8 
 The third, after four hours upon the Ganges, I met the River Katare, which 
 comes from the North ; and lay at a Village call'd Pongangel, at the foot of 
 certain Mountains that defcend to Ganges it felf, coftes 13 
 The fourth, an hours rowing beyond Tongangel, I met a great River, call'd 
 Mart-Nadi, coming from the South ; and I lay at Rage-Mehale, coftes 6 
 'Rage-Mehale, is a City upon the right hand of Ganges ; and if you go by 
 Land, you lhall find the high-way, for a League or two, pav'd with Brick to 
 the Town. Formerly the Governours of Bengala refided herej it being aa 
 excellent Country for hunting, befides that it was a place of great Trade. Bat 
 now the River having taken another courfe, above a good half League from the 
 City, as well for that reafon, as to keep in awe the King of Aracan, and fc- 
 veral Portuguefe Banditi, who are retir'd to the mouths of Ganges, and made 
 excurfions even as far as Daca it felf ; both the Governour and the Merchants 
 have remov'd themfefves to Daca, which is at prefent a large City, and a 
 Town of great Trade. 
 
 The fixth,being arriv'd at a confiderable Town, call'd Donapour, fix Leagues from 
 Rage~.Mebale } I parted with Monficur Bernier 3 who was going to Cafenbafar, 
 
 and 
 
Book I 
 
 Travels 111 1 N D I A. 
 
 and thence to Ogoxli by Land ; for when the River is low, there is no going by 
 Water, by reafon of a great Bank of Sand that lies before a City call'd San- 
 tiqui. 
 
 I lay that night at Toutipoxr, diftant from Rage-mehale, co^es it 
 I few there at Sun-rifing a great number of Crocodiles lying upon the Sand. 
 The feventh, I came to Acer at, coftes 25- 
 From Acerat to Daca, it is counted by Land forty-five Leagues. All that 
 day I faw fuch a vaft number of Crocodiles, that I had a great defire to (hoot 
 at one, to try whether the vulgar report were true, that a Musket-fhot would 
 not pierce their skin. The bullet hit him in the jaw, and made the blood gum 
 out j however he would not ftay in the place, but plung'd into the River. 
 
 The eighth, I (aw again a great number lying upon the bank of the River, and 
 made two (hot at two with three bullets at a time. As foon as they were woun- 
 ded, they turn'd themfelves upon their backs, opening their throats, and di'd upon 
 the fpot. 
 
 That day I came to lie at Douloudia, coftes 17 
 The Crows were here the caufe that we found a very fair Fifh, which the Fifher- 
 men had hid among the Ofiers by the fide of the River j for when our Water- men 
 faw the Crows in great numberg^iovering, and making an hideous noife about the 
 Ofiers, they prefently conjedur'd that there was fomething more than ordinary : 
 and they made fo diligent a fearch, that at length they found an excellent difli of 
 meat. 
 
 The ninth, two hours after noon, we met with a River call'd Cbativor, that runs 
 from the North, and we lay at Dampour, coftes 16 
 
 The tenth, we lay by the River-lide in a place remote from Houfes, and we 
 travell'd that day, coftes iy 
 
 The eleventh, toward evening, being come to that part where Ganges divides it 
 (elf into three Arms, whereof one runs to Daca ; we lay at a large Town, upon 
 the entry of the great Channel, which Town is call'd fatraponr, coftes 20 
 
 They that have no luggage, may make a fhort-cut from fatrapour to Daca, and 
 fave much ground, by reafon of the many windings of the River. 
 
 The twelf, about noon, we paft by a large Village call'd Bagamara, and came to 
 lie at Kafiata, another great Town, coftes 1 1 
 
 The thirteenth, about noon we met with a River, two leagues from Daca, 
 call'd Laquia, which runs from the North-Eaft. Iutt againft the Point where the 
 two Rivers join, there ftands a Fortrefs of each fide, with feveral pieces of Can- 
 non. Half a league lower, appears another River call'd P again, upon which there 
 is a fair Bridg of Brick, which Mirz^a-Mola caus'd to be built. This River comes 
 from the North-Eaft $ and half a league upward appears another River call'd Ca- 
 damtali, that runs from the North, over which there is another Bridg of Brick. 
 On both fides of the River are feveral Towers, as it were enchas'd with feveral 
 heads of men, executed for robbing upon the high-way. 
 
 About evening we came to Daca, having travell'd by water that day, coftes 9 
 
 Daca is a great Town, that extends it felf only in length ; every one coveting to 
 have an Houfe by the Ganges-Me. The length of this Town is above two leagues. 
 And indeed from the laft Brick-Bridg which I mention'd, to Daca, there is but one 
 continued row of Houfes feparated one from the other j inhabited for the moft 
 part by Carpenters, that build Galleys and other fmall Veflels. Thefe Houfes are 
 properly no more than paltry Huts built up with Bamboufs, anddaub'd over with 
 fat Earth. Thofeof Daca are not much better built: The Governor's Palace is 
 a place enclos'd with high Walls, in the midft whereof is a pittiful Houfe, built 
 only of Wood. He generally lodges in Tents, which he caufes to be fet up in a 
 great Court of that Enclofure. The Hollanders finding that their Goods were not 
 ftfe in the ordinary Houfes of Daca, have built them a very fair Houfe ; and the 
 Englijh have another, which is reafonably handfom. The Church of the Auftin- 
 Erurs is all of Brick, and is a very comely Pile. 
 
 When I travell'd laft to Daca, the Nahab Cha-Eft-Kan, who was then Gover- 
 nor of Bengala, was at War with the King of Arakan, whofe Naval-Force confifts 
 generally of 200 Galeaftes, attended by feveral other fmaller Veflels, Thefe 
 GaleatTes run through the Gulf of Bengala } and enter into the mouth of Ganges; 
 
 the 
 
^6 Travels in India. Partpl. 
 
 the Sea flowing up higher then Daca. Cha-Efi-Kan 3 Uncle to King Aureng- 
 z.eb, the prefent Mogul, and the beft Head-piece that ever was in all his Territo- 
 ries, found out a way to corrupt feveral of the King of Aracatfi Captains, fb that 
 of a fudden forty GaleafTes, commanded by Portugal*, Came and join'd themfelves 
 with him. To engage more firmly all this new multitude . to his fervice, he 
 gave a larger pay to all the Porf^Z-Officers, and to the SouMiers proportiona- 
 bly : But thofe of the Countrey had no more than their ordinary pay doubl'd. 
 Tisan incredible thing to fee how fwiftly thefe Galeaffes cut their way in the wa- 
 ter. Some are fo long that they carry fifty Oars of a fide ; but they have but 
 two men to an Oare : There are fome very curioufly painted,, and upon which 
 there is no coft of Gold and Azure fpar'd. The Hollanders have fome of their 
 own to tranfport their Goods 5 and fometimes they are forc'd to hire others, 
 whereby many people get a good livelihood. 
 
 The next day after my arrival at Daca, which was the iqth of January, I went 
 to wait upon the Nahab } and prefented him with a Garment of Cloath of Gold, 
 lac'd with a Gold-needle- work Lace of Point of Spain ; with a Scarf of Gold 
 and Silver of the fame Point ; and a very fair Emrald-Jewel. Toward evening, 
 being return'd to the Hollander's Houfe, where I lodg'd, the Nahab fent me Gra- 
 nates, C/^'/w-Oranges, two Perfian-Widons, ancLrfiree forts of Pears. 
 
 The fifteenth, I fhewed him my Goods, and prefented the Prince with a Watch, 
 in a Gold-EnamelPd-Caie ; with a pair of little Piftols inlaid with Silver, and a 
 very fair Profpe&ive-Glafs. What I gave to the Father and the Son, a young 
 Lord, about ten years old, ftood me in above five thouland Livres. 
 
 The fixteenth, I treated with him about the Prizes of my Goods : And at length 
 I went to his Steward to take my Letter of Exchange to be paid at Cafen-Baz.ar. 
 Not but that he would have paid me my Money at Daca; but the Hollanders, who 
 underftood things better than I did,told me it was very dangerous to carry Mony to 
 Gafen-Baz.ar, whither there was no going,but over the Ganges by water,the way by 
 land being full of Bogs and Fer.s. And to go by water is no Jefs dangerously reafon 
 that the Boats which they ufe, are very apt to tip over upon the leaft ftorm : And 
 when the Mariners perceive that you carry Money along with you, 'tis an eafy 
 thing for them to overfet the Boar, and afterwards to come and take up the 
 Money that lies but at the bottom of the River. 
 
 The twentieth^ I took leave of the Nahab, who defir'd me to come and fee 
 him again, and caus'd a Pafs to be deliver 'd me, wherein he gave me the title of 
 one of the Gentlemen of his Houfe, which he had done before, when he was Go- 
 vernor of Amadabad, when I went to him, to the Army, in the Province of Decan, 
 into which the Raja-feva-gi was enter'd, as I fhall relate in another place. By ver- 
 tue of thefe Pafles I could travel over all the Countreys of the Great Mogul t as 
 being one of his Houfhold. 
 
 The one and twentieth, the Hollanders made a great Feaft for my fake ; to 
 which they invited the EngUJh, and fome Portuguefis, together with the Auftin- 
 Friers of the fame Nation. 
 
 The two and twentieth, I made a Vifit to the EngUJh, whofe Prefident then was 
 Mr. Prat. 
 
 From the twenty-third to the twenty-ninth, I bought up Goods, to the value 
 of 1 1000 Roupies i and after I had embark'd them, I took my leave. 
 
 The twenty-ninth, in the evening, I departed from Daca, the Hollanders bear- 
 ing me company for two leagues, with their little Barques Arm'd : Nor did we 
 (pare the Spanijh-W'me all that time. Having been upon the River from the 
 % twenty-ninth of fanuary to the eleventh of February, I left my Goods and Ser- 
 vants in the Barque at Acerat $ where I took a Boat that carri'd me to a great 
 Village call'd Mirdapour. 
 
 The next day I hir'd an Horfe for my (elf, but not finding another for my Lug- 
 gage, I was forc'd to hire two Women, who carri'd it for me. That evening I ar- 
 riv'd at Cafen-Bafar, where I was welcom'd by Menheir Arnold Van Wachttendonk^, 
 Director of all the Holland-Fa.£torks in Bengala,who invited me to lie at his Houfe. 
 
 The fourteenth, Menheir Wachttendonk^retuvri'd to Ouguely, where is the Gene- 
 ral Fadlory. The lame day one of my Servants brought me word that my 
 People and Goods, which I had left behind in the Barque, had been in very 
 
 great 
 
i 
 
 Book I 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 great danger, by reafon of the high Winds that had blown for two days to- 
 gether. 
 
 The fifteenth, the Hollanders lent me a PalJekis, to go to Madefiu-btfarki. 
 This was a great Town three Leagues from Cafen-bafar, where lay Chx-Efl- 
 Ka*'s Receiver General, to whom I prefented my Bill of Exchange. He told 
 me it was very good, and that he would willingly have paid me, had he not 
 recejv'd order the night before, not to pay me, in cafe he had not paid me al- 
 ready. He did not tell me the reafon that mov'd Cha-Eft-Kau to act in that 
 manner ; fo that I went home to my Lodging infinitely furpriz'd at his pro- 
 ceeding. 
 
 The fixteenth, I wrote to the Nahab, to know the reafon why he had for- 
 bad his Receiver General to pay me. 
 
 The feventeenth in the evening, I took water for OugHeli, in a Bark of four- 
 teen Oars, which the Hollanders lent me j and that night and the next I lay 
 upon the River. 
 
 The nineteenth toward evening, I pafs'd by a large Town call'd Nand.i t far- 
 ther than which the Sea does not flow. Here the Wind blew fo fiercely, and 
 the Water grew fo rough., that we were forc'd to ftay three or four hours, 
 and ly by the more. 
 
 The twentieth, I arriv'd at Ougueli, where I ftay'd till the fecond of March. 
 During which time the Hollanders bid me very welcome, and made it their 
 bufinefs to (hew me all the divertifements which the Country was capable to 
 afford. We went feveral times in Pleafure-Boats upon the River, and we had 
 a Banquet of all the Delicacies that the Gardens of Europe could have afforded, 
 us. Salads of all forts, Colewarts, Afparagus, Peafe, but our chiefeft Dim was 
 fapon Beans j the Hollanders being very curious to have all fores of Puhe and 
 Herbs in their Gardens, though they could never get Artichokes to grow in 
 that Country. 
 
 The fecond of March I left Ougueli, and the fifth arriv'd at Cafenbafar. 
 The next day I went to Madejon-Barfaki, to know whether the Nahab had 
 fent any other orders to his Receiver. For I told you a little before, that I 
 wrote upon the place to Cha-Efl-Kan , to complain of his proceedings, and 
 to know the reafon why my Bill of Exchange was not paid. The Director 
 of the Holland Factories writ a Letter alfo in my behalf, which I enclofed, 
 wherein he represented to the Nahab, that I was too well known to him, a9 
 having been formerly with him at Amadabat, in the Army in Decan, and other 
 places, to deferve fuch hard ufage. That he ought to cpnfider, that I being 
 the only perfon that brought the chiefeft rarities of Eurvpe to the Indies, it 
 was not the way to make me eager of returning any more, as he himfelf had 
 invited me to do, to fend me away in a difcontent. Befides, that the credit 
 of my report would difcourage others from coming to the Indies, fearing the 
 fame ufage as I had receiv'd. Neither mine nor the Directors Letter produe'd 
 that effect which we expected. Nor was I much better fatisfi'd with the new 
 order which the Nahab fent to his Receiver ; which was to pay me, abating 
 twenty thoufand Roupies of the fum which we had agreed upon ; and if I 
 would not take the remainder, that I might come and fetch my goods again. 
 
 This ill dealing of the Nahab, proceeded from a fcurvy trick that was play'd 
 me by three Canary-birds at the Great Mogul's Court. The ftory whereof 
 was thus in fhort : 
 
 Aureng^eb, that now reigns, at the inftigation of two Per fans and a Banian , 
 has brought up a cuftom very much to the difadvantage of Merchants, that 
 come out of Europe, and other parts, to fell Jewels at Court. For whether 
 they come into India either by Land or Sea t the Governour of the place 
 where they firft arrive, has order to fend them to the King, together with 
 their goods, whether they will or no. As the Governour of Surat dealt by 
 me, in the year i66j, fending me to Dehli, or fehanabad, where the King 
 was. There were then attending upon his Majefty, two Perfians and a Banian, 
 who are entrufted to view and examine all the Jewels which are to be fold 
 to the King, One of thofe Perfians is call'd Nahab- Akel-Ran, that is, the Prince, 
 of the Spirit ; who keeps all the Kings Jewels. The name of the other is 
 
 * l MirZa- 
 
Travels in India. Part. II. 
 
 Mirz-a-Moiifon, whole bufmefs is to rate every ftone. The Banian, whofe 
 name is Nalikan, is to fee whether the Stones be falfe or not, or whether they 
 have any defeft. Thefe three men have obtain'd a Licence from the King, to 
 view, before ever he does, whatever forreign Merchants fhall bring to Court, 
 and to prefent their goods to him themfelves. And though they are under an 
 Oath not to take any thing from the Merchants, yet they extort whatever 
 rhey can get from them, though it be to their ruine. When they lee any thing 
 that is lovely, and likely to bring great profit, they would perfwade you to 
 fell it to them for lefs by half than the thing is worth ; and if you refufe to 
 let them have it, when they are in the Kings prefence, they will fet a price 
 upon it at half the value ; knowing that Aurengx.eb is not very covetous of 
 Jewels, loving his Money far better. Upon the Kings Feftival-day, of which 
 I (hall fpeak in another place, all the Princes and Nobility of the Court pre- 
 fent him with moft magnificent gifts. And when they cannot meet with Jewels, 
 they fend him Roupies of Gold, which the King likes far better than Stones j 
 though Jewels are the more honourable prefent. Therefore when this Feftival 
 draws nigh, he hTues out of his Treafury, a great quantity of Diamonds, Ru- 
 bies, Emraulds, and Pearls, which he who is entrufted to prize the Stones, de- 
 livers to feveral Merchants to fell to the Nobility, who are bound to prefent 
 the King j by which means the King gets the Money and his Jewels again. 
 
 There is alio another thing very difadvantageous to a Merchant Jeweller, 
 which is, that when the King has feen the Stones, no Prince or Nobleman 
 that knows of it, will ever buy them. Befides, while thefe three perfbns, who 
 are entrufted to view the Jewels, are confidering and examining them at their 
 Lodgings, feveral Banians refort thither, who are expert, fome in Diamonds, 
 fome in Rubies, fome in Emraulds, and others in Pearls, who write down the 
 weight, goodnefs, cleannefs, and colour of every piece. So that when a Mer- 
 chant goes afterwards to any Prince or Governour of any Province, thefe people 
 fend them a note of what he has, and the price, which they let down at half 
 the value. For in trade thefe Banians are a thoufand times worfe than the 
 Jews ; more expert in all forts of cunning tricks, and more malicioufly mifchie- 
 vous.in their revenge. Now you fhall hear what a trick thefe unworthy peo- 
 ( pie ferv'd me. 
 
 When I arriv'd at Gehanabad, one of them came to my Lodging, and told 
 me, he had order from the King to fee what I had brought, before I expos'd 
 my goods in the Kings prefence. They would have rather that the King had 
 not been at Gebanabad, for they would have then endeavour'd to have bought 
 them themfelves, to gain thereby, by felling them again to the King, or the 
 Nobility upon occafion j which they could never perfwade me to. The next 
 day they came to fee me all three, one after another j and they would needs 
 have of me, amongft other things, a Jewel of nine great Pearls, in the fafhion 
 of a Pear, the biggeft whereof weigh'd thirty Carats, and the leaft fixteen ; 
 together with another fingle Pearl like a Pear, of fifty-five Carats. As for 
 the Jewel, the King took it ; but for the fingle Pearl, they finding that what- 
 ever they could fay, I would not be wrought upon to fell them any bargains, 
 fo order'd it, that before I had fhew'd my Jewels to the King, Giafer-Kan 
 the Kings Uncle faw, and kept it, telling me he would give me as good a 
 price as the King ; and defir'd me not to fpeak of it, for indeed he had a de- 
 fign to make a prefent to the King. 
 
 When the King had made choice of fuch of my Jewels as he pleas'd, Giafer- 
 Kan bought of me feveral pieces, and at the fame time agreed with me for 
 the great Pearl. Some days after he paid me, according as we had agreed, ex- 
 cept for the Pearl, upon which he would have abated me ten thoufand Rou- 
 pies. For the two Perfians and the Banian had malitioufly inform'd him, that 
 at my firft arrival, they could have bought the Pearl for eight or ten thoufand 
 Roupies lefs than I had valu'd it to him; which was abfolutely falfe. There- 
 upon Giafer-Kan telling me, that if I would not take his Money, I might 
 have my Jewel again ; I took him at his word, affuring him, he mould never 
 fee it again as long as he liv'd. And I was as good as my word. And indeed 
 that which made me the more refolute was, that I was refolv'd to carry fome- 
 
Book! Travels in India 
 
 fomcthing which was confiderable to Cha-Efi-Kan; for could I have had my liber- 
 ty upon my arrival at Surat to have gone to him, I would never have feen 
 the King at Gehanabad; about which I had a very great quarrel with the Go- 
 vernour of Smat. For when I came to vifit him, he told me prefenily, that 
 the cafe was alter'd from what it had been fince my Jaft being there, for that 
 the King was refolv'd to have the firii view of all Curioftties imported into 
 Jiis Kingdom. I was above four Months contending in vain with the Gover- 
 nour j but nothing would ferve ; I muft go to the King, and for feaf I mould 
 sake another -Road, he fern fifteen Horfemen along with me as far as Sha- 
 laour. 
 
 When I went for Bengala, thefe Overfeers of the Jewels, out of meer fpite, 
 and, it may be, fet on by Giajer-Kan, to be reveng'd of me for denying to 
 -let him have my Jewel, writ to Cha-Efi- Kan, that I intended to fhew him 
 certain Jewels, among the reft a very fair Pearl, which I had fold to Gidfer- 
 Kan j but that he had given it me again, becaufe he underftood that I would 
 have made him pay for it, ten thoufand Roupies more than it was worth. 
 3They wrote alfo the particular proportion of all the other Stones which I 
 carry 'd. And upon this falfe and malicious advice it was, that Cha-Efi- Kan, 
 who receiv'd not this information till he had deliver'd me my Bill of Exchange, 
 would abate me for my whole parcel, twenty thoufand Roupies, which he 
 redue'd at length to ten thoufand j and well I had it too. 
 
 Since I told you before, what a Prefent I gave to Cha-Eft-Kam ; I think 
 it not amifs to tell you, what I gave the King, to Nabab Giafer-Kan, ta the 
 Eunuch of the Grand Begum, Anrer.gz.eys Sifter, the Great Treafurer, and the 
 Porters of the Treafury. For you muft take notice, that whoever he be, that 
 craves Audience of the King, they ask him in the firft place, where the Pre- 
 sent is which he intends for the King ; and examine whether it be fitting to 
 prefent to his Majefty. For no man muft come into his pretence empty handed, 
 -though it be an .honour dearly purchas'd. Coming then to Gebanalad, I went 
 to make my obeifance to the King ; and this is the Prefent which I made 
 him. 
 
 In the firft place, a Buckler of Brafs highly embofs'd, and very richly guilt, 
 the coft of the Guilding alone amounting to two hundred Ducats of Gold, or 
 eighteen hundred Livres ; the value of the whole piece coming to four thou- 
 sand three hundred feventy eight -Livres. In the middle thereof was the ftory 
 of Cttrtitts, who threw himfelf and his Horfe into the Barathmm, when the 
 Earth gap'd, near Rome. Round the outermalt Circle of the Buckler, was re- 
 prefented the fiege of Rochel. It was wrought by one of the beft Workmen 
 ia France, by the order of Cardinal Richheu. All the great Lords that were 
 about Aurengz-eb at that time, were charm'd at the beauty of the Workman- 
 ftiip, and told him, he could not do better, than to put it upon the great 
 Elephant, which carry'd the Standard before his Majefty when he march'd into 
 the Field. 
 
 I prefented him alfo with a Battle-Axe of Chryftal of the Rock, the fides 
 whereof were fet with Rubies and Emraulds, enchas'd in Gold in the body of 
 the Chryftal, which coft three thoufand one hundred and nineteen Livres. 
 
 Moreover, I prefented him with a Saddle after the Titrky fafhion, embroi- 
 <kr d with little Rubies, Pearls, and Diamonds, which coft two thouiand eight 
 hundred and ninety-two Livres. 
 
 I prefented him alfo with another Saddle and Foot-cloath, embroider'd with 
 Gold and Silver, to the value of one thoufand feven hundred and thirty Livres. 
 The whole Prefent amounting to twelve thoufand one hundred and nineteen 
 Livres. 
 
 The Prefent which I made to GUfar-Kan, the Great Mogul's Unkle, was a 
 Table, with other nineteen pieces to make a Cabinet, all nataurl Stones, of divers 
 -colours, reprefenting the fhapes of feveral Birds and Flowers. The work was 
 made at Florence, and coft two thoufand one hundred and fifty Livres. 
 
 A perfed Ruby Ring, which coft one thoufand and three hundred Livres. 
 
 To the great Treafurer, I prefented a Watch in a Gold Cafe, fet with final 1 
 Emraulds, at feven hundred and twenty Livres. 
 
 59 
 
Travels in India. 
 
 Part tt 
 
 To the Porter& of the Kings Treafury, and thofe that deliver out the Mo- 
 ney out of the Treafury, two hundred Roupies, at three hundred Livres. 
 
 To the Eunuch of the Great Begum, Sifter to Attrengz.eb, a Watch in a painted 
 Cafe, which coft two hundred and fixty Livres. 
 
 All thefe Prefents which I made, as well to the Great Mogul, as to. Cha- 
 Eft-Kan, Giafer-Kan, his Majefties Uncles j as alio the Great Treafurer, to the 
 Stewards of the Houfes of the Kan's, and thole that brought me twice the 
 Calaat, or Habit of Honour from the King., and as many times from the Be- 
 gum his Sifter, and once from Giafar Kan ; all thefe Prefents, I fay, came to 
 twenty-three thoufand one hundred fourfcore and feven Livres. So true it is, 
 that they who have any bufinefs to do at the Court of the great Princes, as 
 welf in Turky as in Perfia and in the Indies^ muft not pretend to do any thing 
 in reference to their affairs, till they have their Prefents, and thole very con- 
 fiderable, ready. Befides, that his Purfe muft be continually open to divers 
 Officers of meaner reputation, who may be able to ferve him. I did not 
 mention in my firft Volume the Prefent which I made to him that brought 
 me the Calaat from the King of Perfia, to whom I gave two hundred Crowns. 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 The Road from Surat to Golconda, 
 
 I Have made feveral journeys to Golcondan, and have taken feveral Roads j 
 fbmetimes by Sea embarking from Ormus for MaLfpata ; fometimes let- 
 ting out from Agra, but moft often from Surat, which is the chiefeft land- 
 ing-place of Indolfian. But in this Chapter I will only (peak of the common 
 Road from Surat to Golconda; wherein I comprehend that of Agra-, which 
 Road comes in at Dultabat, as I mail afterwards relate, making mention only 
 of two journeys which I made in 1645-, and 16^2, for fear of tiring the 
 Reader. 
 
 I departed from Surat in the year 1645;, upon the nineteenth of January, 
 
 and came to !y at Cambari, coftes 3 
 From Camban to Barnoli, coltes 9 
 From Barnoli to Beara, coftes 1% 
 From Beara to Navapour, coftes 16 
 This is the place where grows the beft Rice in the World, that fmells like 
 
 Musk. 
 
 From Navapour to Rinkula, coftes iS 
 From Rinkula to Pipslnar, coftes 8 
 From Pipelnar to N imp our , coftes 17 
 From Nimpour to Patane, coftes 14 
 From Patane to Secoura, coftes 
 
 From Secoura to Bacjuela, coftes 10 
 From BAquela to Difcon } coftes 10 
 From Dijcon to Dultabat, coftes 10 
 Dultabat is one of the beft Fortrefies in the Kingdoms of the Great Mogul, 
 upon a Mountain every way fteep ; the only way to it being fo narrow, that 
 but one Horfe, or one Camel can go at a time. This City is at the foot of 
 the Mountain, very well wall'd. And this place of fuch importance, which 
 the Mogul's loft, when the Kings of Golconda and Vifapour revolted from them, 
 was retaken in the Reign of Jehan-guire, by a fubtle ftratagem. Sultan Courom, 
 who was afterwards call'd Cha-jehan, commanded in Decan the Army of the 
 King his Father ; and Afi-Kan, Father in Law to Cha-Efi~Kan, who was one 
 of the Generals, gave the Prince fome fort of language which Co highly offend- 
 ed him, that immediately fending for one of his Papouche's, or Shoo's, he 
 caus'd him to have fix blows given him upon the Bonnet; which among the 
 
 Indians 
 
Book! Travels in India. 
 
 Indians is the higheft indignity can be put upon a man, after which he is no more 
 ro appear in the Prince's prefence. This was done by content between the Prince 
 and the General, to deceive the World, more efpecially any Spies which the King 
 of Vifapow might have in the Prince's Army. The report of Afi-Kan's difgrace 
 was immediately fpread abroad : and he himfelf flying for Sanctuajy to the King 
 of Hfapour, who had not cunning enough to difcern the impofture, was welcom'd 
 by the fame King, and aflur'd of his protection. Aft-Kan feeing himfelf fo well- 
 receiv'd, begg'd leave of the King, that he might retire with ten or twelve of 
 his Women, and as many of his Servants, into the Fortrefs of Dultabat, which 
 was granted. He enter'd the Town with eight or ten Camels, the two Cajava's 
 or Litters on each fide of the Camel being clofe fhut, to keep the Women from 
 being feen. But inftead of Women, he had put into every Cajava two Souldiers, 
 all bold and refolv'd men, as were alfo every one of the fuppos'd Eunuchs that 
 led the Camels : fo that he had no great difficulty to cut the Garrifon in pieces, 
 not being upon their guard ; and to make himfelf Mafter of the place, which has 
 been ever fince under the Power of the Great Mogul. There are in the place a 
 great number of excellent Pieces of Cannon, and the Cannoniers are generally 
 Enghft or Hollanders. True it is, that there is one little Mountain higher than 
 the Fortrefs ; but there is hardly any way to it, but through the fame Fortrefs. 
 There was a Dutch-Engineer, who after he had ferv'd the King fifteen or fixteen 
 years, defir'd leave to be gone, and the Holland-Company it felf, that had recom- 
 mended him to the Service, did all they could to obtain it ; but they could ne- 
 ver procure it ; becaufe he was an excellent Cannonier, and very skilful in making 
 Fire-works. The Raja fefeing, who is the moft Potent of all the Idolatrous 
 Princes of India, and who was moft powerfully Inftru mental to put the Crown 
 upon Aureng-z.el's Head, was fent as GeneraLjfimo of the Army of this King, 
 againft the Raja Seva-gi ; and paffing by the Fortrefs of Daltabat, this Dtttch- 
 Cannonier went to wait upon him, all the Cannoniers of the Army being Fran- 
 guis, as well as he. The Hollander laying hold of this opportunity, told the Raja, 
 that if he would procure him a Licence to depart, he would fhew him a way to 
 
 fet up Cannon, and to mount them upon that Mountain which commanded the 
 ortrefs : for they had already wall'd it about, and put Souldiers upon it to keep 
 it fecure. The Raja pleas'd with his propofalj aMurM him that he would procure 
 him the King's Licence, if he perform 'd what he had propos'd. Thereupon the 
 Hollander undertaking and accomplishing his defign, the Raja was as good as hig 
 Word, and obtain'd of the King to difmifs the Dutch-Cannonkv: who came to 
 Surat when I was there., about the beginning of the year 16675 whence he em- 
 bark'd for Holland. 
 
 From Dttltabat to Attreng-abat, coftes 4 
 Attreng-abat was formerly but a Village, till Aureng-z^eb made it a City, though 
 it be not wall'd. It grew to be thus enlarg'd, as well by reafon of a Lake two 
 leagues about, upon which the Village is built, as for the Memorys-fake of his 
 firft Wife, who is dead, by whom he had his Children. She is Interr'd toward 
 the end of the Lake, upon the Weft-fide, where the King has built a Mofijuee, with 
 a ftately Monument, and a fair Inn. The Mofyuee and the Monument were rear'd 
 at a great expence, being cover'd with white-Marble, which is brought from La- 
 hor by Waggon ; being a journey of four Months. Going one time from Surat 
 to Golconda, I met five days journey from Anreng-abat, more than three- hunder'd 
 Waggons laden with this Marble, the leaft whereof was drawn by twelve 
 Oxen. 
 
 From Aareng-abat to Pipoli, coftes . 8 
 
 From Pipoli to Aubar, coftes tx 
 From Aubar to Gttifemner, coftes 10 
 From Guifemner to Afii, coftes 1* 
 From Afii to Sarver, coftes 16 
 From Sarver to Lefona, coftes J 6 
 From Lefona to Nadour, coftes 12 
 At Nadour you muft crofs a River which runs into Ganges ; and pay for every 
 Waggon four Roupies ; befides that, you muft have a pafs from the Gover- 
 nor. * 
 
 From" 
 
62 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Partll 
 
 From Nadour to Patonta, coftes 
 From Patonta to Kafyri, coftes 
 From Kakeri to Satapour, coftes 
 
 10 
 
 JO 
 12 
 IO 
 
 From Satapour to Sitanaga, coftes 
 From Sitanaga to Satanagar, coftes 
 
 At Satanagar you begin to enter upon the Territories of the King of Gol- 
 sonda. 
 
 From Girbalh to Golconda, coftes 14, 
 So that from Surat to Golconda there are, coftes 32^ 
 All this I travell'd in twenty-feven days. I made five journeys more in my 
 Travels in the year 16$ 3. And I alfo took another Road from Piplenar, where I 
 arriv'd the eleventh of March, fetting out from Surat, the fixth. 
 The twelfth^ to Birgam. 
 The thirteenth, to Omberat. 
 
 The fourteenth, to Enneque-Tenque, a ftrong Fortrefs, that bears the name of 
 two Indian PrincelTes. It ftands upon a Mountain fteep every way ; there being 
 but one afcent to it upon the Eaft-fide. Within the enclofed compals of the 
 Walls there is a large Pond, and Ground enough to fow for the maintenance of five 
 or fix-hunder'd men. But the King keeps no Garrifon therein, fo that it falls to 
 ruine. 
 
 The fifteenth, to Gerottl. 
 
 The fixteenth, to Labour, where you are to crofs a River j upon which, about a 
 Cannons-mot from the fording- place, are to be feen feveral large Pagods of the 
 Countrey, whither great numbers of Pilgrims repair every day. 
 
 The feventeenth, to Aureng-abad. 
 
 The eighteenth, to Pipelgan, or Piplj. 
 
 The nineteenth, to Ember. 
 
 The Twentieth, to Deogan. 
 
 The one and twentieth, to Patrit. 
 
 The two and twentieth, to Bargan. 
 
 The three and twentieth, to Palam. 
 
 The four and twentieth, to Candear 3 a large Fortrefs, but upon one fide com- 
 manded by an high Mountain. 
 
 The five and twentieth, to Gargan. 
 The fix and and twentieth, to Nagooni. 
 The feven and twentieth, to Indove. 
 The eight and twentieth, to Indelvai. 
 
 The nine and twentieth, to Regivali. Between thefe two laft places there is a 
 little River which feparates the Territories of the Great Mogul, from the Domi- 
 nions of the King of Golconda. 
 
 The one and thirtietieth, to Mirel-molorkifet. 
 To go from Agra, to Golconda, you muft go to Brampour, according to the Road 
 already defcrib'd from Brampour to Dultabat, which is five or fix days journeys 
 offj and from Dultabat to thofe other places before fet down. 
 
 You may alfo take another Road to go from Surat to Golconda - t that is to lay, 
 through Goa and Fifapour ;'as 1 mall inform you in the particular relation of my 
 journey to Goa. I come now to what is moft worthy obfervation in the Kingdom 
 of Golconda : And to relate what happen'd in the laft Wars the King xnamtain'd 
 againft his Neighbours, during the time that I have known the Indict, 
 
 From Satanagar to Melvari, coftes 
 From Melvari to Girballi, coftes 
 
 16 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Book I. Travels in India. 
 
 61 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Of the Kingdom cf Golconda, and the Wars which it has m-.iintaitid 
 for fome few years Lift paft. 
 
 TH E whole Kingdom of Golconda, take it in general, is a good Countrey, 
 abounding in Corn, Rice, CatteJ, Sheep, Poultry, and other neceflaries for 
 human life. In regard there are great ftore of Lakes in it, there is alfo great 
 ftore of Fifh. Above all the reft, there is a fort of Smelt, that has but one bone 
 in the middle, which is moft delicious food. Nature has contributed more than 
 Art, toward the making thefe Lakes, whereof the Countrey is full 5 which are 
 generally in places fomewhat rais'd, fo that you need do no more than make a lit- 
 tie Dam upon the plain-fide to keep in the water. Thefe Dams or Banks are fome- 
 times half a league long : and after the rainy feafons are over, they open the 
 Sluces from time to time to let out the water into the adjacent Fields, where it 
 is receiv'd by divers little Channels to water particular grounds. 
 
 Bagnagar is the name of the Metropolis of this Kingdom j but vulgarly it is 
 call'd Golconda, from the name of a Fortrefs, not above two leagues diftant from 
 it, where the King keeps his Court. This Fortrefs is about two leagues in cir-^ 
 cuit, and by confequence requires a numerous Guard. It is as it were a Town 
 where the King keeps his Treafure : having left Bagnagar, ever fince it was fack'd 
 by the Array, which Aureng-^eb brought againft it. 
 
 Bagnagar is then the City, which they vulgarly call Golconda ; and it was foun- 
 ded by the Great Grandfather of the prefent King ; upon the importunity of one 
 of his Wives, whom he paffionately lov'd, whofe name was Nagar. Before that, 
 it was only a place of Pleafure, where the King had very fair Gardens, till at 
 length his Wife continually reprefenting to him the delicacies of the fituation for 
 the building a City and a Palace, by reafon of the River ; he laid the foundations, 
 and order'd that it mould bear the name of his Wife, calling it Bag-Nagar, that 
 is to fay, the Garden of Nagar. This City lies in feventeen degrees of Eleva- 
 tion, wanting two minutes. The Countrey round about is a flat Countrey, only 
 neer the City are feveral Rocks, as you fee about Font ain-B lean. A great River 
 wafhes the Walls of the City upon the South- weft-fide, which, neer to Maflipa- 
 tan, falls into the Gulf of Bengala. At Bagnagar you croft this River over a 
 Bridg no lefs beautiful than Pont-Nettf at Paris. The City ,is little lefs than Or- 
 leans, well-built, and full of windows. There are many fair large Streets, but not 
 being well-pav'd : they are dufty, as are all the Cities of Perfia and India, which 
 is very offenfive in the Summer. 
 
 Before you come to the Bridg, you muft pais through a large Suburb, call'd 
 Erengabad, about a league in length ; where live all the Merchants, the Brokers, 
 Handicraft-Trades, and in general, all the meaner fort of people ; the City 
 being inhabited only by perfons of Quality , Officers of the King's Houfe, 
 Minifters of Juftice, and Officers of the Army. From ten or eleven in the 
 forenoon, till four or five in the evening, the Merchants, Brokers and Work- 
 men come into the City to trade with the Forreign Merchants ; after which time 
 they return to their own Houfes. In the Suburb are two or three fair Mofauees, 
 which ferve for Inns for the Forreigners, befides feveral Pagods in the Neighbour- 
 ing-parts. Through the fame Suburb lies the way to the FortreTs of Gol- 
 conda. 
 
 So fbon as you are over the Bridg, you enter into a large Street, that leads 
 you to the King's Palace. On the right-hand are the Houfes of fome Lords of 
 the Court j and four or five Inns two Stories-high : wherein there are fair Halls^ 
 and large Chambers to let in the frefh Air. At the end of this Street there is at 
 large Piazza j upon which ftands one of the fides of the Palace } in the middle 
 whereof there is a Balcone, wherein the King comes to fit, when he pleafes to 
 give Audience to the People. The great Gate of the Palace ftands not upon this 
 Pia^a, but upon another very neer adjoyning j and you enter firft into a large 
 
 Court" 
 
, ii 
 
 64 gravels in India. Part II 
 
 Court furrounded with Portico's, under which lies the King's Guards. Out of 
 this Court you pafs into another, built after the fame form, encompaft with fe- 
 veral fair Apartments, the Roofs whereof are terrafs'd. Upon which, as upon 
 thofe where the Elephants are kept, there are very fair Gardens, wherein there 
 grow Trees of that bignefs, that it is a thing of great wonder, how thofe Arches 
 fhould bear fo vaft a burthen. 
 
 About fifty years fince, they began to build a magnificent Pagod in the City j 
 which would have been the faireft in all India } had it been finifti'd. The Stones 
 are to be admir'd for their bignefs : And that wherein the Nich is made, which is 
 on that fide where they fay their Prayers, is an entire Rock, of fuch a prodigious 
 bulk, that it was five years before five or fix-hunder'd men, continually employ'd, 
 could hew it out of its place. They were forc'd alfo to rowl it along upon an En- 
 gine with wheels, upon which they brought it to the Pagod i and feveral affirm'd 
 to me, that there were fourteen-hunder'd Oxen to drawit. I will tell yoa here- 
 after the reafon it remains imperfect : For had it been finim'd, in all reafon it had 
 excell'd all the boldeft Structures of jifia. 
 
 On the other fide of the City, as you go to Maflipatan, there are t\to great 
 Lakes, being each about a league in compafs, wherein there ride ieveral Pinks 
 richly adorn'd for the King's Pleafure ; and upon the Banks are leveral fair Houfes 
 that belong to the Principal Lords of the Court. 
 
 Upon three fides of the City ftands a very fair Mofquee, wherein are the Tombs 
 of the Kings of Golconda : and about four in the afternoon there is a Dole of 
 Bread and Pilau to all the Poor that come. If you would fee any thing that is 
 rare, you rauft go to view thefe Tombs upon a Feftival-day. For then from 
 morning till night they are hung with rich Tapeftry. 
 
 As for the Government and Policy which is oblerv'd in this City : In the firft 
 place, when a Stranger comes to the Gates, they fearch him exactly, to fee if he 
 have any Salt or Tobacco about him $ for thofe Commodities bring the King his 
 greateft Revenue. Sometimes a Stranger fhall'wait a day or two, before he fhall 
 have leave to enter. For a Souldier firft gives notice to the Officer that com- 
 mands the Guard, and then he fends to the Deroga, to know what he ihall do. 
 Now, becaufe it many times happens that the Deroga is bufy, or gone to take a 
 walk out of the City, or elfe for that fometimes the Souldier himfelf pretends he 
 cannot find the Deroga, only to create himfelf more errands, to get the more Mo- 
 ney j a Stranger is forc'd to endure all this delay, (bmetimes, as I have laid before, 
 for a day or two. 
 
 When the King fits to do Juftice, I obferve that he comes into the Balcone that 
 looks into the Piazza, and all that have bufinefs ftand below, jult againft the place 
 where the King fits. Between the People and the Walls of the Palace are fix'd 
 in the ground three rows of Poles, about the length of an Half-Pike, to the ends 
 whereof they tye certain ropes a-crofs one upon another. Nor is any perfonr 
 whatfoever permitted to pais beyond thofe bounds, unlefs he be call'd. This Bar, 
 which is never let up, but when the King fits in Judgment, runs along the whole 
 bredth of the Piaz.z,a ; and juft againft the Balcone there is a Bar to open, to let 
 in thofe that are call'd. Then two men, that each of them hold a Cord by the 
 end, extended all the bredth of the paffagc, have nothing to do but to let fall the 
 Cord, for any perfon that is call'd to ftep over it. A Secretary of State fits be- 
 low under the Balcone, to receive all Petitions j and when he has five or fix to- 
 gether, he puts them in a Bag, and then an Eunuch, who ftands in the Balcone neer 
 the King, lets down a ftring, to which the Bag being ti'd, he draws it up, and pre- 
 fents it to his Majefty. 
 
 Every Munday the chiefeft of the Nobility mount the Guard , every one 
 in their turn, and are never reliev'd till at the eight days end. There are fome 
 of thefe Lords that have five or fix thoufand men under their command ; 
 and they lye encamp'd in their Tents round about the City. When they mount 
 the Guard, every one goes from his own Habitation to the Rendevouz ; but 
 when they are reliev'd, they march in good order over the Bridg, thence 
 through the long Street into the Piazxa, where they draw up before the 
 Balcone. In the firft place, march ten or twelve Elephants, more or left, ac- 
 cording to the quality of the Captain of the Guard. There are fome of thefe 
 
 Elephants 
 
Book! Travels in India. 
 
 Elephants that carry Cages, which in fome fort refemble the Body of a little 
 Coach j there are others that have but one man to guide them, and another 
 in the Cage who carries a Banner. 
 
 After the Elephants, follow the Camels by two and two, fometimes to the 
 rfumber of thirty or forty. Every Camel carries a kind of Packfaddle, upon 
 which is faften'd a little Culverine, which a certain Engineer, clad in a skin from 
 head to foot, and fitting upon the Crupper of the Camel, with a lighted Match 
 in his hand, dextroufly manages from one fide to another before the Balcone, 
 where the King fits. 
 
 After them come the Coaches, attended by the Domeftick Servants of the 
 Commander : Next to them follow the lead-Horfes, and then the Lord appears, 
 to whom all this Equipage belongs, attended by ten or twelve Curtifans, that ltay 
 for him at the end of the Bridg, and skip and dance before him to the PiasxM 
 Behind him the Cavalry and Infantry march in good order : Which being a fhew, 
 wherein there was much of delight and ftate, all the while I ftaid at Bagnabar, 
 which was about four Months, I had the divertifement to fee them out of my 
 Lodging in the great Street every week as they march'd by. 
 
 The Souldiers wear no other Clothes than only three or four ells of Calicut, 
 with which they cover half their Bodies behind and before. They wear their 
 hair very long, and tie it up in a knot upon the top of the crown, like the wo- 
 men, who have no other Headgear than only a piece of Linnen with three cor- 
 ners, one that comes to the middle of the head, and the other two, which they 
 tie under their chins. The Souldiers do not wear Hangers or Scimitars like the 
 Tafians ; but broad Swords like the Switz.ers, as well for a thrult, as a blow, 
 which they hang in a Girdle. The Barrels of their Muskets are itronger than 
 ours, and much neater ; for their Iron is better, and not fb fubjetft to break. 
 Their Cavalry carry Bows and Arrows, a Buckler and a Battel- Ax, an Headpiece 
 and a Jacket of Mail, that hangs down from the Headpiece over their Shoul- 
 ders. 
 
 There are fo great a number of common Women as well in the City as in the 
 Suburbs, and in the Fortrefs, which is like another City, that there are generally 
 above twenty thoufand fet down in the Derogas Book ; without which licence, it 
 is not lawful for any Woman to profefs the Trade. They pay no tribute to the 
 King ; only they are obliged to come, a certain number of them, with their Gu- 
 vernefs, and their Mufick every Friday, and prefent themfelves before the Balcone. 
 If the King be there, they dance before him : if he intend not to come, an Eunuch 
 comes into the Balcone, and makes them a lign to retire. In the cool of the 
 evening they ftand at the doors of their Houfes, which are for the moft part little 
 Huts $ and when night comes, thev fet up a Candle or a lighted Lamp for a Signal : 
 Then it is alfo that they open all the Shops where they fell Tori > which is a cer- 
 tain drink made of the juice of a Tree, and is as fweet as our new Wines. They 
 fetch it fome five or fix leagues off, upon Horfes, that carry two earthen-Bottles of 
 each fide, and trot at a great rate 5 of which there come every day to the City 
 above five or fix-hunder'd. The King has a confiderable Revenue by the Impoft 
 which he lays upon this Tori. And for that reafon he permits fo many common 
 Women, in regard it is for their fake that fo much Tari is confum'd ; thole that 
 fell it, for that caufe, keeping their Shops by thofe Houfes. 
 
 Thefe fort of Women are fo nimble and active, that when the prefent King went 
 to fee Maflipatan, nine of them undertook to reprefent the figure of an Elephant 5 
 fovf making the four feet, four the body, and one the trunk ; upon which the 
 King, fitting in a kind of Throne, made his entry into the City. 
 
 All the Men and Women of Golconda are well proportion^, and of comely 
 ftatures ; and fair enough in their councenances j only the Countrey-people are a 
 little more fwart. * 
 
 The prefent King of Golconda bears the Name of Abdottl-Coutoti-Sba ; and I 
 will tell the Reader in a few words, from whence he drew his Original. In the 
 Reign of Axbar King of India, the Father of feban-Gxir, the Territories of the 
 Great Moguls did not extend farther Southward then Narbtder 5 io that the River 
 which runs by it, and which coming from the South, empties it felf into Ganges, 
 feparated their Dominions from the Territories of the Raja of Narfmgue, thac 
 
 * K ftretch'd 
 
Travels in India. 
 
 Partll 
 
 ftretch'd as far as Cape-Comorin, the other Rajas being only his Subjects, and de- 
 pending upon him. This Raja and his Succeffors have been always at Wars with" 
 them that fucceeded to Tamerlane or Temur-leng in India j and their Power was 
 fo great, that the laft Raja, who was at War with Akbar, brought into the Field 
 four Armies under as many Generals. The raoft confiderable of his Armies lay m 
 thofe Provinces, which at this day are call'd the Kingdom of Golconda ; the fecond 
 was quarter'd in the Provinces of Vifapour, the third in the Province of Dultabat, 
 and the fourth in the Territories of Brampour. The Raja of Narfmgue dying without 
 Children, the four Generals divided among themfelves the Countreys which they 
 polTefs'd with their Army,and took upon them the title of Kings t the one oiGolcon- 
 da,the other of fifapour, the other of Brampour ,and the fourth of Dultabat .Though 
 the Raja were an Idolater, neverthelefs his four Generals were Mahumetans ; and 
 he of Golconda was of the Seel of Haly, defcended from an Ancient Family of the 
 Turcomans ,which inhabit the Country of Hamadan in Perfia. This General,as I have 
 faid, was more confiderable than any of the reft; and fome few days after the death 
 of the Raja, they won a famous Victory from the Mogul ; fo that he could not 
 hinder them from affuming their feveral Sovereignties. But after that, fehan- 
 Guir, the Son of Akbar, conquer'd again the Kingdom of Brampour 3 Cha-jehan 
 the Son of fehan-Gttir recover'd the Kingdom of Dultabat, and Aureng-z.eb the 
 Son of Cha-jehan recover'd fome part of the Kingdom of Vifapour. As for the 
 King of Golconda, neither Cha-jehan, nor Aureng-z.eb difturb'd him, but let him 
 reft in peace, upon condition that he fhould pay to the Mogul an annual tribute of 
 zocooo Pagods. At prefent the greateft Raja on this fide Ganges is the Raja of 
 Velou, whofe Territories extend to Cape-Comonn, and who fucceeded to fome part 
 of the Territories of the Raja of Narjingue : But in regard there is no Trade in 
 his Countrey, and by confequence no concourfe of ftrangers, there is little notice 
 taken of him. The prefent King of Golconda has no Sons, but three Daughters, 
 who are all married. 
 
 The Eldeft Efpous'd one of the Kinfmen of the Grand Che^_ of Mecca. Nor 
 muft we forget fome paffages that fell out before this Marriage. The C^£. coming 
 to Golconda in the habit of a Faquir, , for fome Months lodg'd without the Gate 
 of the Palace, difdaining to give any anfwer to feveral Courtiers, that demanded 
 what his bufinefs was. At length the thing being made known to the King, he 
 fent his chief Phyfitian, who fpoke good Arabic^, to know of the Chek^ what he 
 had to requeft, and the reafon of his coming. The Phyfitian, and fome other 
 Lords of the Court that difcours'd him alfo, finding him to be a perfon of great 
 Wit and Learning brought him to the King, who was very well fatisfi'd with his 
 afpeet and his prefence. But at length the Chek declaring to him, that he came 
 to Efpoufe the Princefs ; that propofal very much furpriz'd the Prince, and was 
 look'd upon by the greateft part of the Court, as made by a perfon not well in 
 his wits. At firft the King only laugh'd at him. But when he found him ob- 
 itinately perfevering in his demand, in-fb-much that he threaten'd the Countrey 
 with fome ftrange Calamity, if the Princefs were not given to him in Marriage, he 
 was committed to Prifon, where he lay a long time. At length the King think- 
 ing it more to the purpofe to fend him back into his own Countrey, caus'd him- to 
 be fhip'd away at Majlipatan, in a Veffel that carri'd Goods and Pilgrims to Moc- 
 ca, whence they travell by land to Mecca. About two years after the fame 
 Chek^ return'd again to Golconda, and order'd his affairs fo well, that he Efpous'd the 
 Princefs, and won an high reputation in the Kingdom, which he governs at this 
 day, and is very Potent. He it was that kept the King from furrendring the For- 
 trefs of Golconda, whither he was retir'd, when Aureng-aeb and his Son took Bag- 
 nabar,zs I fhall tell you by and by, threatning to kill him, if he would not refolve 
 to hold it out, and not deliver the keys to the enemy. This bold action wss the 
 reafon which made the King love him ever afterwards j and that he takes his 
 counfel in all weigty affairs, not as he is the King's Son-in-Law, but as he is a great 
 Minifter of State, and the chiefeft perfon, next the King, in all the Court. He it 
 was that has put a flop to the finifhing the great Pagod in Bagnagar, having 
 threaten'd the whole Kingdom with fome great Calamity, if they went forward 
 with the work. This Prince is a paffionate Lover of all thofe that profefs the 
 Marhematicks, and underftands them as well, For which reafon, though he be 
 
 a Ma- 
 
Book I. Travels in India. 
 
 61 
 
 a Mahumetan, he is a great Favourer of all the Christians, who are vers'd in 
 that Science, as he has particularly teftiri'd to Father Epbrahim } a Capuchin^ 
 pading through Golconda for Pcgu t whither he was fent by his Superiors. He 
 did all he could to oblige him to ftay in the Country, and offer'd to build him 
 a Houfe and a Church at his own expences ; telling him, he mould neither 
 want employment , nor Hearers , in regard there were feveral Portugnefe 
 Chriftians, and feveral Armenians that came thither to trade. But Father Epbra- 
 im having a "particular Order to go to Pegu, could not accept of his Offer j 
 yet when he went to take his leave of the Checl^ ? he prefented him with a CaUat, 
 the moft noble that was in his Wardrobe ; being the whole habit ; the Cap, the 
 Cabay or large Veft, the Arcalou or lhort Oarlock, two pair of Drawers, two 
 Shirts, and two Scarfs, which they wear about their necks, and over their heads to 
 keep off the heat of the Sun. The Friar was furpriz'd at the prefent, and gave 
 the Cbecl^x.o underftand, that it was not proper for him to wear it : however the 
 Cheeky would force him to take it, telling him he might accommodate fome of his 
 Friends with it. Two months after Father Epbraim beftow'd the lame Prefent 
 upon me, being at Stir at 5 for which I return'd him thanks. 
 
 The Check, feeing he could not detain the Father, and unwilling he fhould go a 
 foot from Golconda to Majlipat.w, oblig'd him to take an Oxe, with two Men to 
 ]ead it ; and becaufe he could not perfwade him to take alfo thirty Pagods, which 
 he prefented the Father withal!, he commanded the two men, when they came 
 to Maflipatan, to leave the Oxe and the thirty Pagods with him, which they 
 did very punctually j for otherwife at their return to Golconda, they had for- 
 feited their lives. I will finifh the Hiftory of Father Ephraim, when I come 
 to the defcription of Goa> which is the principal place that the Portugals have 
 in the Indies. 
 
 The fecond Daughter of the King of Golconda was married to Sultan Ma- 
 humad, the eldeft Son of Anrengz.eb j the occafion whereof was this : Mir- 
 gimola, Generaliffimo of the King of Golconda' 's Army, and who had been very 
 Serviceable to his Mafter, to fettle the Crown upon his head, according to the 
 cuftom, left with the King as a mark of his fidelity, both his Wife and Chil- 
 dren in Hoftage ; for he was lent to reduce certain Raja's in BengJa, that were 
 in Rebellion. He had feveral Daughters, but only one Son, who had a great 
 train, and made a great noife at Court. The reputation and riches which Mir- 
 gimola had gain'd, rais'd him up feveral Enemies, who endeavour'd in his ab- 
 fence to ruine him, and to put him out of the Kings favour. They pretended 
 that the great power of Mirgimola was very much to be fufpected j that all 
 his defigns tended to dethrone him, and to fettle the Kingdom of Golconda up- 
 - 5 on his own Son ; that it behov'd him not to ftay till the remedy were paft 
 cure, but to rid himfelf of an Enemy, fb much the more to be fear'd, the clofer 
 he kept his intentions ; and that the fhorteft and beft way was to poyfon him. 
 The King being eafily pcrfwaded, gave them leave and authority to act as they 
 pleas'd for his fecurity ; but having mifs'd of their defign for three or four 
 times together, Mirgimola s Son began to fmell the plot ; and immediately 
 gave advice thereof to his Father. It is not known what inftructions he re- 
 ceiv'd from his Father ; but fo foon as he had his anfwer, he went to the King, 
 and fpoke boldly to him, taxing him with the fervices which his Father had done 
 him, and that without his afliftance he had never come to the Crown. The young 
 Lord,naturally of a fiery difpofition,kept on this difcourfe,fo difpleafing to the King, 
 till at length his Ma jefty flung away; and the Lords that were prefent, fell 
 upon the young man, and bafely mifus'd him. At the lame time alfo he was 
 arrefted and committed to prifon, together with his Mother and Sifters. Which 
 action, as it made a great noife at Court, coming to Mirgimola s ears, fo in- 
 cens'd him, that having an Army under his command, and being belov'd by the 
 Soldiers, he refolv'd to make ufe of the advantages he had, to revenge him- 
 felf for the injury done him. He was then not far from Bengala, being fent, 
 as I faid before, to reduce certain Raja's to obedience, whofe Territories lye 
 upon the Ganges ; and Sxltan-Stijah, C ha-] e ban's fecond Son, being then Gover- 
 nour of Bengala, the General thought it his beft way to addrefs himfelf to 
 him ; as being the next Prince^ with whom he might join his Forces againft 
 
 * K a the 
 
68 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Part II 
 
 the King of Golconda, whom he look'd upon now no more as his Matter, but 
 as one of his moft inveterate Enemies. Thereupon he wrote to the Prince to 
 this effect : That if he would join with him, he would give him an opportu- 
 nity to poflefs himfelf of the whole Kingdom of Golconda ; and that he mould 
 not neglect fo fair an opportunity to enlarge the Dominions of the Great Mo- 
 gul, the fucceffion whereof might as well concern him,, as any of the reft of 
 his Brothers. But the Anfwer which Sultan-Sujah fent him, was. contrary to 
 his expectation 5 who told him, that he could not tell how to truft a perfou, 
 who as he went about to betray his King, might more eafily be drawn to be- 
 tray a Foreign Prince, whom he had inveigl'd only for the fake of his Re- 
 venge ; and that therefore he mould not rely upon him. Upon Sultan-Sujah's 
 refufal, Mirgimola wrote to Aurengz^eb, who was then in his Government of 
 Brampoure, who being not fo nice as his Brother, accepted of the propofal that 
 was made him. Thus while Mirgimola advancM with his Troops toward Bag- 
 nabar, Au.rengz.eb haften's toward Decan, and both Armies being /oin'd, they 
 came to the Gates of Bagmbar before the King was in a pofture to receive 
 them. He had only time to retreat into his Fortrefs of Golconda, to which 
 uiurengz.eb, after he had rifl'd the City of Bagnabar, and plunder d the Palace, 
 lay'd a clofe Siege. The King feeing himfelf thus vigoroufly prefs'd, fent away 
 to Mirgimola his Wife and Children very honourably. For there is vertue and 
 generofity in the Indians, as well as in the Europeans of which I will give you 
 an illuftrious Example in the perfon of the King of Golconda. Some days after 
 the Enemy had befieg'd the Fortrefs, a Canoneer efpying Aureng^eb upon his 
 Elephant, riding about to view the Fortifications of the Caftle, tpld the King, 
 being then upon the Baltion, that if he pleas'd he would fetch off Aurengz,efr 
 with a Canon-fhot ; and at the fame time was about to give fire ; but the King 
 holding his hand, told him he perceiv'd it well enough., but that it behov'd 
 Kings to be better Husbands of the Lives of Princes. The Canoneer obey'd 
 the King, and inftead of mooting at Aurengneb, he took off the Head of the 
 General of his Army, who was a little before him; which put a ftop to the 
 AfTault they were about to have giv'n , the Army being in a confufion upon 
 his death. Abdul-jaber-Bcg, General of the King of Golconda!?, Army, lying not 
 far from the Camp, with a flying Army of four thoufand Horfe, underftanding 
 the diforder of the Enemy by reafon of the lofs of their General, laid hold of 
 fo favourable an opportunity, gave them a defperate charge in that confufion, 
 and putting them to the rout, purfu'd them till night, for four or five Leagues. 
 Some few days before the General's death, the King of Golconda finding that 
 his provifions fail'd him in the Fortrefs, was about to have deliver'd the Keys $ 
 but as I (aid before, Mirz^a-Mahomed, his Son-in-Law, fhatch'd them out of 
 his hand, and threatn'd to kill him, if he perfever'd in that refolution. Which 
 was the reafon, that the King who lov'd him not before., had ever after the 
 greateft affection imaginable for him as long as he liv'd. 
 
 Aurengz^eb being thus conftrain'd to raife his Siege, ftay'd fome days to rally 
 his Troops j and having receiv'd a recruit of frefh men, return'd again to the 
 Siege, with new refolutions. But Mirgimola, who had ftill fome kindnefs for 
 the King remaining in his breaft, would not permit Aurengz.eb to ufe the ut- 
 moft of extremity, but by his wit and good management gain'd a fufpenfion 
 of Arms. * 
 
 Cha-jehan , the Father of Aurengz.eb , had formerly had great kindneffes 
 fhew'n him by the King of Golconda, to whom he fled, after he had loft the 
 Battel, together with his eldeft Brother, which he fought againft fehan-guir 
 his Father, with whom he made War. The eldeft Son was taken, and fehan- 
 guir caus'd his eyes to be put out j but Cha-jehan being more wary, fled, and 
 was entertain'd by the King of Golconda, with whom he enter'd into a particular 
 and ftrict friendfhip ; Cha-jehan making an Oath to his Benefactor, that he would 
 never wage War againft him upon any occafion whatever. Mirgimola there- 
 fore knowing that it would be no difficult thing to bring two Kings, that were 
 Friends, to an accommodation, wrought underhand with both, toward the con- 
 clufion of a Peace. And he fo brought his bufinefs about, that the King of Gol- 
 tonda writ a Letter firft to Cha-jehan, wherein he fubmiffively requefted him 
 
 to 
 
Book I 
 
 to be an Arbitrator between Aurengz.cb and him, promifing to fubmit wlioliy 
 to him, and to fign fuch Articles as he mould propofe. By the fame policy of 
 Mirgimola, Cha-jehan was advis'd, in anfwer to the King of Golconda!?, Letter, 
 to propofe a Match between his fecond Daughter and Saltan M.ihomed, the Son 
 of Aurengz^eb, upon condition that after the death of the King her Father, the 
 Son-in-Law mould inherit the Kingdom of Golconda. This propofition being 
 accepted, the Peace was concluded, and the Nuptials celebrated with an ex- 
 traordinary Magnificence. As for Mirgimola, he quitted the fervice of the 
 King of Golconda, and went with Aureng^eb to Brampour. Soon after Cha-jehan 
 made him his Prime Minifter of State, and Generaliflimo of his Arnves ; and he 
 it was that fo potently aflifted Aurengz^eb to get the Crown, by the defeat of 
 Sultan-Sujah. For Mirgimola was a perfon of great wit, and no lefs underltand- 
 ing in Military than in State afairs. I had occafion to fpeak with him feveral 
 times ; and I have no lefs admir'd his juftice, than his difpatch to all people that 
 had to do with him ; while he gave out feveral Orders, and fign'd feveral 
 Difpatches at the fame time, as if he had but one entire bufmefs in hand. 
 
 The other Princefs of Golconda was promis'd to Sultan Sejed, another Chel^ 
 of Mecca ; and the Match went on fo fairly, that the day was appointed for 
 the celebration of the Nuptials ; but Abdoul-faber-Beg, General of the Army, 
 with fix other Lords, went to the King to divert him from his intention $ and 
 they brought it fo to pafs, that the Match was broken off, and the Princefs was 
 given in Marriage to Mirz.a-Abdoul~Cofing, the Kings Coufin ; by whom (he 
 has two Sons, which have wholly annull'd the Pretentions of Aurengz^eb^s Son ; 
 whofe Father now keeps him in Prifbn in the Fort of Gavalsor, for having ta- 
 ken his Uncle Sultan Sujah's part againft him. The Princefs had been given be- 
 fore to Mirz.a-Abdoul-Cofing, but for his debauchery, which render'd him little 
 regarded by the King. But fmce his marriage he is very much reclaim'd. 
 
 Now the King of Golconda does not ftand in fb much fear of the Moguls ; 
 for in imitation of them, he keeps his Money in his own Country , and has 
 already hoarded up a Treafury fufficient to maintain his Wars. Befides, he is 
 altogether addicted to the Seel of Haly, fo that he will not wear a Bonnet, like 
 the other Mahumctans, becaufe they fay Haly wore none ; but another fort of 
 attire for the head. Which is the reafon that the Perfans, that come into" Ind*a 
 to leek their fortune, apply themfelves rather to the King of Golconda then to the 
 Great Mogul. Such is the condition of the King of Vifapour alfb, whom the 
 Queen, Sifter to the King of Golconda, takes care to educate in the Seel of Haly 3 
 which invites great numbers of Perfians into her Service. 
 
 CHAP. XL 
 The Road from Golconda to Maflipatan, al. Mafalipatan. 
 
 FRom Maflipatan they count it an hunder'd coftes or leagues, taking the right 
 way. But if you go by the Diamond-Mine, which in the Perfian Language is 
 call'd Coulour , in the Indian, Gani; they reckon it an hunder'd and twelve 
 leagues : and this is the Road which I generally took. 
 
 From Golconda to Tenara, coftes 4 
 Tenara is a fweet place, where there are four very fair Houfes, to every one of 
 which belongs a large Garden. One of the four ftanding upon the left- hand along 
 the High-way, is much more beautiful then any of the other three. It is built of 
 Free-ftone two ftories high, wherein there are feveral fair Galleries, Halls, Par- 
 lors, and lodging-Chambers. Before the front of the Houfe is a large four-fquare 
 Piazza, little inferior to the Place Roy ale in Pans. Upon every one of the other 
 three fronts there is a great Portal, on each fide whereof there is a fair Platform 
 f rais'd from the earth above four or five-foot-high, and well-Arch'd, where Tra- 
 vellers of Quality are lodg'd, On the top of each Portal there is a ftrong Ba- 
 
 Jufter/ 
 
70 rraveu w India 
 
 Travels in India. Part. II. 
 
 lufter, and a little Chamber for the Ladies. When Perfons of Quality care not to 
 be in their Houfcs,, they fet up Tents in their Gardens ; and you muft take notice 
 that there is no dwelling for any perfon but only in the three Houfes 5 for the 
 fourth, which is the faireft, belongs only to the Queen. When {he is not there 
 however, any body may fee it, and take a walk in the Garden, which is a very 
 lovely place, and well-ftor'd with water. The whole Piazza is encompaft with 
 feveral Chambers for the lodging of poor Travellers ; who every day toward the 
 evening have an Alms beftow'd upon them, of Rice, or Pulfe, which they boil 
 ready to their hands. But for the Idolaters that eat nothing which is provided 
 by other hands, they give them flower to make Bread, and a little Butter. For 
 when their Bread is bak'd like a broad thin Cake, they dip it in the melted-But- 
 ter. 
 
 From Tenara to fatenagar, coftes 12 
 From fatenagar to Patengi, coftes ' 12 
 
 From Patengi to Pengeul, coftes , 14 
 
 From Pengeul to Nagelpar, coftes 12 
 From Nagelpar to Lakabaton,- coftes II 
 From Lakabarcn to Contour or Gam, of which I mall fpeak in my difcourfe of 
 the Mines, coftes 1 1 
 
 The greateft part of the way from Lakabaron to Contour, efpecially when you 
 come near to Contour, is very rocky ; fo that I was forc'd in fome places to take 
 my Coach off the Carriages, which was prefently done. If vou meet with any 
 good Earth between thofe Rocks, there you fhall find Cajfia-Trees, that bear the 
 beft Caffia, and the moft laxative in all India. Which I found by its working with 
 my men that eat of it by the way. 
 
 There runs a great River by the Town of Contour, which falls into the Gulf of 
 Bengala neer Majlipatan. 
 
 From Contour or Gam, to Kah-Kaly, coftes 12 
 From Kah-Kaly to Bez^onar, coftes 6 
 Near to Be&ouar you muft repafs the River of Contour. 
 
 From Bez.ouar to Voucbir, coftes ^ 
 From V mchir to Nilimor, coftes 4 
 About half the way between Voucbir and Nilimor, you muft crofs a great 
 
 River upon a Float-boat of Timber, there being no other kind of Boat in that 
 
 place. 
 
 From Nilimor to Milmol, coftes 6 
 fvovciMilmol to M iflipata::, coftes ^ 
 Mafiipat4» is a great City, the Houfes whereof are only of Wood, built at a 
 diftance one from another. The place it felf, which ftands by the Sea, is famous 
 for nothing but the Road for Ships which belongs to it, which is the beft in the 
 Gulf of BehgaU ■, and from hence they fet Sail for Pegu, for Siam, for Aracan, 
 for Bengala, for Cochtnchinc, for Mecca, and for Ormus, as alfo for the Iflands of 
 Afadagafcar, Sumatra and the Adamite's. 
 
 You muft take notice, that from Golconda to Mappatan, there is no travelling 
 by Waggons, by reafbn of the high Mountains , Lakes and Rivers that make the 
 Road very ftreight and impaflable. Tis a very difficult thing to carry a little 
 Coach thither ; for I was forc'd to have my own taken off the Carriages, and fo 
 to have it lifted out of the bad way. The Road is every jot as bad between 
 Golconda and Capc-Comorin ; a Waggon being hardly fo much as made mention of 
 all the way ; for that there is no other way to travel, or for the carriage of 
 Goods, than with Horfes and Oxen. But inftead of Coaches, they have the con- 
 venience of Pallekie's, wherein you are carried with more fpeed and more eafe 
 than in any part of India. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Book I. 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 chap. xir. 
 
 The Road from Surat to Goa, and from Goa to Golconda through 
 
 Vifapour. 
 
 YO U may go from Surat to Goa, partly by Land, and partly by Sea. But the 
 Road being very bad by Land, generally Travellers go by Sea, and hiring an 
 Almadier, which is a Barque with Oars, they go by the Shoar to Goa : though 
 fometimes the Malavares or Indian Pirats are very much to be fear'd all along 
 thofe Coafts, as I fhall tell you in due place. 
 
 The way from Surat to Goa, is not reckon'd by Cofies t but by Gos, one of which 
 makes four of our common Leagues. 
 
 From Surat to Daman, gos j 
 From Daman to Bajfain, gos ip 
 From Bajfain to Chaoul, gos y 
 From Chaoul to Daboul } gos 12 
 From DabouL to Rejapour, gos . 10 
 
 From Rejapour to Mmgrela, gos 9 
 From Mingr ela to 6W, gos 4 
 In all from Sw^f to Goa, gos • 61 
 The great danger which you run along the Coaft, is the hazard of falling into 
 the hands of the Malvares, who are violent Mahometans, and very cruel to the 
 Chriltians. I faw a bare-foot Carmelite-Friar who had been taken by thofe Pirats. 
 This Friar, to get his ranfom the fooner, they put to that kind of torture, that his 
 right-arm was fhorter by one half then his left, and fo it was with one leg. The 
 Captains do not give above fix Crowns to every Souldier for the whole fix months 
 that they are ufually out at Sea : Then the Souldiers may return home, and if 
 their Captains will have them ftay longer, they muft allow 'em more pay. They 
 feldom venture out above 20 or 25- leagues at Sea, which is no great hazard of 
 the Vefiel. But fometimes the Portugmfs fnap them, and then they either hang 
 em up prefently, or throw 'em over-board. Thefe Malavares carry fometimes 
 200, fometimes 2jo men, and they fail together in Squadrons of ten or fifteen 
 Barques to attack a great Vefiel, not caring a rum for the great Guns. They come 
 board and board fo fuddenly, and caft fuch a quantity of Pots of Artificial Fire 
 upon the deck, that if there be not fpeedy remedy appli'd, they will prefently do 
 a world of mifchief. Generally our Seamen, knowing the cuftom of thefe Pirats, 
 when they come within ken, prefently fhut up the Scuttles, and fill the deck with 
 water, to hinder the Fire-Pots from doing execution. 
 
 An Englt/h Captain, whofe name was Mr. Claris , coming from Bantam to Su- 
 rat, not far from Cochin, met a Squadron of thefe Malvares, confifting of 2 j or 30 
 of thefe Barques. Who came board and board, and vigoroufly attack'd him. 
 The Captain feeing he could not withftand their firft Fury, put fire to fome Bar- 
 rels of Powder, and blowing up the deck, blew a great number of the Pirats into 
 the Sea. Neverthelefs, the reft were nothing dilcourag'd, but boarded the Ship 
 a fecond time. The EngUJh Captain feeing there was no help, put his men into 
 two Shallops, and ftaying behind in his Cabin, where the Pirats could not enter fb 
 fuddenly, he fet fire to a Train which he had laid, that reach'd to all the reft of 
 the Powder, and at the fame time leaping into the Sea, was taken up by his own 
 men. m the mean time the Ship being all a-fire, the Pyrats leapt into the Sea 
 alfo. But for all this, the two Shallops, wherein there were about forty EngUJh, 
 were taken by the reft of the Malvares, that were Frefh-men; and I was then 
 at breakfaft With the EngUJh Prefident, Mr. Fremelin, when he receiv'd a Letter 
 from Captain Clarf^, that he was a Slave to Samorin, who is the moft confidera- 
 ble King all along the Pirats Coaft. The Prince would not leave the EngUJh in 
 the hands of thofe Scoundrels, knowing that they would have been in great dan- 
 ger of their lives, by reafon that above twelve-hunder'd Women had loft their 
 Husbands, in the two times that the Ship had been fir'd, However the King 
 
 found 
 
72 Travels in India. Part II. 
 
 Found a means to appeafe them, promifing to each of them that had loft their 
 Husbands two Piafiers, every Piaftef being four millings a piece, which came to 
 above two thoufand four hundred Crowns,befides four thoufand, which were to be 
 paid for the Ranfom of the Captain and the other Sea-men, immediately the 
 Prefident lent the Money., and I faw them at their return, fome in health, o- 
 thers in violent Feavers. The Malavares are a People fo fuperftitious, that 
 they never touch any thing that is foul or foyfd, with their Right Hands, but only 
 with the Left, the Nails of which Fingers they let grow, and ufe inftead of 
 Combs, for they wear their Hair long like the Women, tying it about their 
 Heads in wreaths, aud binding it with a Linnen cloath with three corners. 
 
 Since 1 have mention'd Daman, I will tell you in a few words how that 
 City was befieg'd by Aureng-Zeb the prefent Great Mogul. Some are of 
 opinion that Elephants do great matters in War ; which may be fometimes 
 true, butoot alwaws ; for very often inftead of doing mifchief to the Enemy, 
 they turn upon thofe that lead them, and rout their own partv as Aureng- 
 Zeb found by experience, at the Siege of this City. He was twentv davs be- 
 fore Daman, and refolv'd at length to Storm it upon a Sunday, believing that 
 the Chriftians were like the Jews and would not defend it upon that day. He 
 li at commanded the Place was an old Souldier, who had ferv'd in France, 
 and had three Sons with him. In the Town were eight hundred Gentlemen, 
 and other ftout Souldiers, who came from all parts to fignalize their valour 
 at that Siege. For though the Mogul had in his Army above forty thou- 
 fand men, he could not hinder relief from being put into Dama, t bv Sea, in 
 regard that he wanted Ships. The Sunday that the Prince intended to Storm, 
 the Governour of Daman, as had been order'd at the Counal of War, caus'd 
 Mafs to be faid prefcntly after Midnighr,and then made a Sally with all his Cavalry 
 and fome part of his Infantry, who were to fall on upon that quarter which was 
 guarded by two hundred Elephants. Among thofe Elephants they flung a great 
 number of Fire-works, which fo affrighted them in the dark of the Night, 
 that knowing not whither they went , nor being to be rul'd by their Go- 
 vernours, they turn'd upon the Befiegers with fo much fury, that in lefs than 
 two or three hours half the Army of Aureng-Zeb was cut in pieces, and 
 in three days the Siege was rais'd j nor would the Prince after that, have any 
 more to do with the Chriftians. 
 
 I made two Voiages to Goa i the one at the beginning of the year 1641. 
 the fecond at the beginning of the vear 1648. The firft time I ftay'd but 
 five days, and return'd by Land to Surat. From Goa I went to Bichollj, which 
 is upon the main Land, thence to Vfapour, thence to Golconda, thence to Au- 
 reng-abat, and fo to Surat. I could have gone to Surat without paffing through 
 Golconda, but my bnfinefs led me that way. 
 
 From Goa to Vifapour, coftes. 
 
 Which takes up generally eight days journey. 
 
 From Vifapour to Golconda, coftes. loo 
 Which I travel'd in nine days. 
 
 From Golconda to Aureng-abat, the Stages are not fo well order'd, being 
 fometimes fixteen, fometime twenty five, fometimes twenty Leagues afunder. 
 
 From Aureng-abat to Surat takes up fometimes twelve, fometimes fifteen, 
 fometimes fixteen days journey. 
 
 Vifapour is a great fcambling City, wherein there is nothing remarkable, 
 neither as to the publick Edifices, nor as to Trade. The Kings Palace is a vaft 
 one but ill built ; and the accefs to it is very dangerous, in regard there are 
 abundance of Crocodiles that lie in the Water which encompafs it. The King 
 of Vifapour has three good ports in his Dominions, Rejapour, Daboult, and Qra- 
 paten. The laft is the belt of all, where the Sea beats upon the foot of the 
 Mountain, and you have fourteen or fifteen Fathom Water near the Land. Upon 
 the top of the Mountain there is a Fort, with a Spring of Water in it. Cra- 
 paten is not above five days journey from Goa to the North. And Rabacjue, 
 where the King of Vifapour fels his Pepper, is as far diftant from it to the 
 Eaft. The King of Vifapour and the King of Golconda have been formerly tri- 
 butary to the Great Mogu I \ but rvm they are abfolute of themfelves. 
 
 This 
 
Book I. Travels in India. 
 
 This Kingdom was for fbme time difquieted by the revolt of Nair-fsva-gi, Cap- 
 tain of the°King of fifapour's Guards } After which the young Seva-gi his Son 
 conceiv'd fo deadly a hatred againft the King, that he made himfelf the head 
 of certain Bandit i , and as he was both wife and liberal, he got together fo 
 many Horfe and Foot, as made a compleat Army ; the Souldiers flocking to 
 to him from all parts, for the reputation of his Liberality. And he was juft 
 about to have led them to aftion, when the King of nfapour happen'd to 
 dye without Children, fo that with little or no trouble he got pollelfion of 
 one part of the Coaft of Malavar ; taking Rejapour, Rafigar, Crapatm, Da- 
 bod, and other places. They report that upon his demolilhing the fortifica- 
 tions of Rajigar, he found vaft Treafares, which help'd him to pay his Soul- 
 diers who were alwayes well paid. Some years before the death of the 
 King' the Queen perceiving no probability of having any Children, adopted a 
 little' Boy, upon whom fhe beftow'd all her afFe&ions, and caufed him to be 
 brought up in the Doctrine of Hal/s Seel. The King upon his Death-bed 
 caus'd this Adopted Son to be Proclaim' d King ; but Seva-gi having a nume- 
 rous Army continu'd the War, and much difturb'd the Regency of the Queen. 
 At length he made the firft propofitipns for Peace ; which was concluded 
 upon conditions, that he mould quietly enjoy the Territories* which he had 
 fubdu'd, that he mould become Tributary to the King, and pay him . the half 
 of all his Revenue. The young King being thus fix*d in his Throne, the Queen 
 Recent went in Pilgrimage to Mecca ; and I was at Ifpahan, when fhe pafs'd 
 through the Town in her return home. 
 
 When I made my fecond Voiage to Goa, I embark'd in a Dutch VeJel eall'd 
 the Maeftricbt, which carry 'd me to Mmgrela, where I landed the eleventh 
 day of January, 1648. 
 
 Mingrela is a large Town, extended half a League in length upon the Sea > 
 in the Territories of Vifapour. It is one of the beft Roads in all India, where 
 the Hollanders take in frefh Provifions every time they fail to block up Goa^ 
 as alfo when they are bound upon Trade for many other parts of India. For 
 at Mmgrela there is both excellent Water, and excellent Rice. This Town 
 is alfo very famous for Cardamoms, which the Eaftern people efteem the beft of 
 Spices, not being to be had in any other Countrey 5 which makes that fore 
 of Commodity very fcarce and very dear. There is alfo made great ftore of 
 courle Calecuts, that are fpent in the Countrey ; befides great quantities of 
 courle Matting, that ferves to pack up goods. So that both in refpecT; of 
 Trade, as alfo for the furnifhing their Ships with frefh Provifions , the Hol- 
 landers have a Factory in the Town. For , as I laid before, not only all Vef- 
 fels that come from Batavia, from fapon, from Bengala, Ceylan, and other 
 places, and thole that are bound for Surat, the Red Sea, Ormtts, Balfara, &c. 
 both going and coming, come to an Anchor in the Road of Mmgrela, but 
 alfo while the Hollanders are at Wars with the Portugals, and lye before the 
 Bar of Goa, where they have ufually eight or ten Sail, they fend their fmall 
 Barks to Mingrela for Provifions. For the Hollanders lye eight Months in a 
 year before the mouth of the Port of Goa, Co that there can nothing pafs in- 
 to Goa by Sea all that time. You mult alio take notice, that the Bar of Goa 
 is alfo ftopt up fome part of the year by the Sands which the South and 
 Weft-winds that precede the great Rains, caft upj Co that there is not a- 
 bove a foot, or a foot and a half Water for very fmall Boats. But when the 
 great Rains come, the Water fwells and carrying away the Sands, opens a 
 paffage for the great Velfels. 
 
 1 
 
 GHA P, 
 
74 
 
 "travels in India. 
 
 Part II 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 Observations upon the pre fcnt State of the City of Goa. 
 
 GO A lies in if Degrees, 32 minutes of Latitude,in an Ifland fix or feven leagues 
 about, upon the River of Mandoua, ten leagues from the mouth of the 
 River. The Ifland abounds in Corn and Rice, and bears feveral forts of Fruit, as 
 Manges, Ananas, Adams-Figs, and Coco's. But moft certainly a Pippin is far 
 beyond all thole fruits. All thofe that have feen Europe and Afia, agree with 
 me, that the Port of Goa, the Port of Constantinople, and the Port of Toulon, are 
 three of the faireft Ports of all our vaft Continent. The City is very large, and 
 the Walls are of good Stone. The Houfes are for the moft part very magni- 
 ficently built, efpecially the Vict-Rofs Palace. There are in it a great number of 
 Apartments, and in one part of the Rooms and Chambers, which are very large, 
 hang feveral Pictures, wherein are feverally painted by themfelves, the Ships that 
 come from Lisbon to Goa, with thofe that are bound from Goa to Lisbon, with the 
 name of the Veflel, the Captain, and the number of Guns which the Ship carries. 
 If the City were not fo clofelv environ'd with Hills, it would doubtlefs be better 
 inhabited, and the air would be much more wholfome. But thefe Mountains 
 keep otf the cool winds which is the reafon that the heats are very exceflive. 
 Beef and Pork is the ordinary diet of the Inhabitants of Goa. They have good 
 ftore of Poultry, and fome few hidgeons ; but though Goa be very neer the Sea, 
 Fifh is very fcarce. They have abundance of all forts of Sweet- meatSj and feed upon 
 them very much. 
 
 Before the Hollanders had brought down the power of the Fortttgals in India± 
 there was nothing to be feen at Goa, but Magnificence and Riches : but the Dutch 
 having every where got their Trade out of their hands, they have loft their 
 fprings of Gold andSilver,and areffallen from their former fplendor.In my firft Voy- 
 age to Goa I met with people of fafhion, that had above two-thoufand Crowns 
 Revenue 5 at my fecond Voyage the fame persons came privately to me in the 
 evening, to beg an Alms ; yet abating nothing, for all that, of their inherent pride 
 and haughtinefs : Nay, their Women will come in Pallckfs to the door, and ftay 
 while a Boy, that attends them, has brought you a Complement from his Miftrefs. 
 Then ufually you fend them what you pleafe, or carry it your felf, if you have a 
 curiofity to fee their faces ; which rarely can be done, becaufe they cover them- 
 felves with a veil from head to foot. Moreover, if you go your felf to prefent 
 them your Charity, they will give you a little note, containing a recommendation 
 of fome religious Perfon, who flgnifies whar fubftantial perfons they have been, 
 and how they came to fall to decay. Sometimes, if the perfon. be handfbm, fhe 
 is defir'd to walk in ; and to take a Collation, which lafts moft commonly till the 
 next day. Hadnot xhePortvgals fo many Fortreffes to keep upon the Land j or had, 
 not, out of their contempt of the Hollander they neglected their aifairs, they could 
 never have been redue'd to fo low a condition. 
 
 The Fortuguefes have no fooner made the Cape of Good-Hope, but they are all 
 Fidalgues or Gentlemen ; and add the Title of Dom to the fingle name of Pedro 
 or Jeronimo, which they receiv'd at their Baptifm : From whence they are call'd 
 the Ftdalgues or Gentlemen of the Cape of Good-Hope. As they change their 
 Names, they alfo change their Nature ; for it may be truly laid, that the Indian- 
 Fortugds are the moft revengeful perfons, and the moft jealous of their Wives of 
 any perfons in the World. And when the leaft fufpition creeps into their noddles, 
 they rid themfelves of them either by Poifon or Dagger. If they have an ene- 
 my 5 they never pardon him ; but if he be a perfon of that courage that they dare not 
 grapple with him,theirMafters have attending upon them a fort of blackSlaves,that 
 if they command them to kill any one, the Slaves will do it with a blind obe- 
 dience ; which they do either with a Dagger, or a Piftol , or elfe by knocking the 
 party on the head with a club, which they always carry, about the length of an 
 Half-Pike, It it happen that they ftay too long before they can meet with an op- 
 portunity 
 
Book I. Travels til India 
 
 portunity ere they can difpatch their milchief ; and that they cannot conveniently 
 meet the peifon to be murther d, in the Fields or in the City, they are no fuch 
 Saints, but they will kill him at the very Alrar, while he is at his devotions } of 
 which I faw two fatal prefidents, the one at Goa, the other at Daman. At Daman 
 three or four of thefe black Slaves perceiving fome perlbns whom, they were to 
 murther, at Mais in the Church, dilcharg'd their Muskets at them through the 
 windows, never confidering what other mifchief they might do to any other 
 perfons, againft whom they had no quarrel or defign. The fame thing happen'd 
 at Goa, where feven men were kill'd clofe by the Altar, and the Prieft that (aid 
 Mafs was dangeroufly wounded at the lame time. Nor do their Courts of Juftice 
 take any cognizance of thefe crimes, for generally the guilty perfons are the 
 chiefeftof theCountrey. As for their Suits of Law, there is no end of them, 
 for they are manag'd by the Canarins, who are Natives of the Countrey, whofe 
 bufinels it is to follow the Law ; the molt fubtil and crafty fort of people in the. 
 World. 
 
 To return to the ancient Power of the Portugals in India, moft certain it is, 1 
 that if the Hollanders had never come among them, you Ihould not have feen a 
 bit of Iron in any Portugal Merchant's Houfe 5 but all GoW or Silver ; for they 
 needed no more than to make three or four Voyages to Japan, the Phdippin, or 
 Molucca Ilbnds, or to China to enrich themfelves ; gaining at their return above 
 five or fix for one upon rich Merchandizes. The very Souldiers as well as the 
 Captains and Governors enrich'd themlelves by Trade. There was not any per- 
 fon, unlefs it be the Governor, who was not a Trader 5 or if he does Trade, it is 
 in another man's name, for he has Revenue enough without it. Formerly it was 
 one 01 the faireft employments of the World to be Vice-Roy of Goa : and there 
 are but few Monarchs, that have Governments at their dilpolal, which are equal 
 in value to fome of thole which depend upon this Vice-Roy. The chief Command 
 is that of Mozambique for three years. In thole three years the Governor gets 
 above four or five-hunder'd-thouland Crowns, and fometimes more, if in all that 
 time they receive no lofies from the Cafres. Thele Cafres are people that bring 
 Gold for the Commodities which they carry away ; and if any one of them 
 happen to ive, going or coming, whatever you trufted them withall is loft with- 
 out redemption. The Governour of Mozambique trades alfo with the Negro's 
 that inhabit all along the Coaft of Mslinda 5 and they ordinarily pay for the 
 goods they buy, either in Elephants Teeth, or Ambergreefe. When I was laft 
 in Goa, the Governour of Mozambique, who return'd to Goa after he had been 
 three years in his Command, had by him only in Ambergreefe, two hundred 
 thouland Crowns, not reckoning his Gold, and his Elephants Teeth,, which a- 
 mounted to a far larger fum. 
 
 The fecond Government was that of Malaca, by realbn of the Cuftom which 
 was there to be paid. For it is a Streight through which all VelTels that are 
 bound from Goa, for fapon, China, Cochinchina, fava, Macajfar, the Phillippm 
 Iflands, and many other places, muft of necefTity pafL They may fail another 
 way by the Ifland of Sumatra, toward the Weft, and fo through the Streight 
 of Sonde, or elfe leave the Ifland of fava to the North ; but when the Ships 
 return to Goa, they muft fhew a djfeharge from the Cuftom-Houfe of Malaca) 
 which obliges them to go that way. 
 
 The third Government is that of Ormus, by reafon of the great Trade which 
 is there, and the Cuftom which all Ships are to pay that are bound in and 
 out of the Perfian Golf. The Governour of Ormus exacted great Tolls from 
 thole that went to the Ifland of Bakren to filh for Pearls, for if they did not 
 take a Licence from him, he would fink their VelTels. The Perfians at prefent 
 exaft this Cuftom from the Englijh, who have a fmall lhare in that Trade, as 
 I have related in my Perfian Voyages. But though they are fevere enough to the 
 Merchants, their Cuftoms amount to nothing near fo much as what the Portu- 
 gueses made of it. The Hollanders are in the fame condition at Malaca, not re- 
 ceiving hardly fufficient to pay their Garrifon which they keep there. 
 
 The fourth Government is that of Mofcate, the revenue whereof was very 
 great. For all Veffels that are bound froni India, from the Perfian Golf, from , 
 the Red Sea,, and from the Coaft of Melinda, muft come under the Point of 
 
 * L i . Mtif- 
 
 75 
 
76 Travels in India. Part II. 
 
 Mufcate, where they generally take in frefh Water. If there be any Ships that 
 would not come to an Anchor there, the Governour fent for his Cuftom, which 
 was four in the hundred j and if they refus'd, the Governour had his GaleafTes 
 ready to fink them. 
 
 The fifth Government was that of the Ifland of Cejland, to which belong'd 
 all thofe places which the Portugals had, as well upon the Coaft of Malavar, 
 the Golf of Bengala, and other parts of India the worft of Which employ- 
 ments was worth ten thoufand Crowns per dnn. 
 
 Befides thefe five great Governments, which were at the difpofal of the Vice- 
 Roy, he had abundance of other Offices in his Gift, as well in Goa, as in other 
 parts of India. The very day that he makes his Entry into Goa, the Captain 
 of his Guards gets above four thoufand Crowns. The three Offices of Engi- 
 neer Major, Vifiter of the Forts, and chief Mafter of the Ordinance, ye lded 
 every year twenty thoufand Pardo's every Par do being worth twenty-fcven 
 Sous of our Money. The Portugueses were then all very rich ; the Nobility 
 by reafon of their Governments and Commands, the Merchants by their Trade, 
 till the Englijh and Hollanders cut them fliort. When they had Ormus, they 
 would not let any Merchant pafs by Sea into India j fb that they were forc'd 
 to go by Land through Candahar. Then, when the Turky, Per fan, Arabian, 
 Mufcovite, Polonian, and other Merchants arriv'd at Bander- Abaffj, thev join'd 
 together, and deputed four of the molt experienced perfons among them., to 
 view all the forts of Commodities, and to underftand their quality and price. 
 After they have made their report,they agree upon their price,and fetch away their 
 goods., which are diftributed to every one proportionably according to the number 
 of Merchants .It is alfb the cuftom of all Afa,i\xix. there is nothing fold,but a Bro- 
 ker has a hand in the Bargain. They make good the Money to thofe that 
 have fold, and receive it from them that buy ; and there are fome forts of 
 Commodities upon which there is due to them for Brokage, fometimes one in 
 in the Hundred , fometime one and a half, and two. 
 
 At that time the Portuguefes made great profit, without any loft. For the 
 Vice-Roy took care to preferve them againft the Pyrats. Who affoon as the 
 Rains are over, and that it was feafonable to put to Sea, always fent a fuffi- 
 cient convoy to guard the Merchants twenty-five or thirty Leagues to Sea, 
 the Malvares not daring to ftir above fifteen or twenty. The Captains of the 
 Galiots, and the Soldiers drive a fmall Trade alfb in their Voyages, and in re- 
 gard they pay no cuftom, they gain enough to maintain themfelves handfbme- 
 ly all the time they lye in Garrifon, which is during the Rains. There was alfb 
 care taken for the advancement of the Soldiery ; for every Soldier that came 
 from Portugal, after nine years fervice, had fbme Command either by Sea or 
 Land beftow'd upon him ; and if he would not accept of it, they gave him 
 leave to Trade as a Merchant. So that if there happen'd to be any perfon of 
 underftanding among them, he could not fail to raife his fortune , having all 
 the credit he could defire. For there were people enough that being glad to 
 let out their Money, would venture with him at Cent, per Cent, upon his re- 
 turn. If the VefTel be loft, they that lend their Money, lofe either their 
 Money or their goods 5 but if the Ship come fafe home, of one they make 
 three or four. 
 
 The Natives of the Country, call'd Canarins , are not permitted to bear 
 any Offices among the Portuguefes, but only in reference to the Law, that is 
 to fay, either as Advocates, or Sollicitors, or Scriveners ; for they keep them 
 very much under. If one of thefe Canarins or Blacks, happen to ftrike a White 
 or European, there is no pardon for him, but he muft have his hand cut off. 
 As well the Spaniards as Portuguefes, make ufe of them as Receivers, and to fol- 
 low their bufinefs. And in the Manilia's, or Philippin Iflands, there are fbme 
 of thefe Blacks fo rich, that many of them have offer'd twenty thoufand Croi- 
 fats to the Vice-Roy, for liberty to wear Hofe and Shoo's, which they are not 
 permitted to wear. Some of thefe Blacks have thirty Slaves attending upon 
 them, very richly habited ; but only they go barefoot. And had the Portugals 
 permitted them to fet out Ships of their own, and to have chofen Captains and 
 ether Officers at their own pleafure, the Portuguefes would not have made fuch 
 
 large, 
 
Book I 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 large, at leaft not fo eafie Conquefts in the Indies. Thefe Blacks are very 
 Couragious and good Soldiers, and feveral of the Religious Orders have affur'd 
 me, that they will learn more in fix months in one of their Golledges , than 
 the Portugal Children in a year, whatever Science you put them to ; which is 
 the reafon that the Portugals keep them fo low. The natural Inhabitants of 
 the Country about Goa, are Idolaters, and worfhip feveral forts of Idols, which 
 thev fay are the Refemblance of feveral that have done good works, to whom 
 they ought to give praife by adoring their Portraitures. There are many of 
 thefe Idolaters who worfhip Apes. And therefore in the Ifland oZSalfete, there 
 was a Pagod, where the Idolaters kept in a Cheft, like a Tomb, the Bones and 
 Nails of an Ape, which they faid had been mighty ferviccable to their Anceftonr, 
 by bringing news and intelligence to them, when any hoftile Princes profecuted 
 them ; for which purpofe they would fometimes fwim through the very Sea 
 it felf. Tbe Indians come from feveral parts in proceffion, and make Offerings 
 to this Pagod. But the Clergy of Goa, efpecially the Inquifitors, caus'd the 
 Tomb one day to be taken away, and brought it to Goa, where it remain'd a 
 good while, by reafon of the difference which it made between the Ecclefiafticks 
 and the people. For the Idolaters offering a great fum of Money to have their 
 Reliques again, the people were willing to have reftor'd them ; faying, that the 
 Money would do well upon any occafion of War, or elfe to relieve the poor. 
 But the Clergy were of a contrary opinion, and maintain'd that fuch a piece of 
 Idolatry was not to be endur'd upon any account whatfoever. At length the 
 Arch-Bifhop and the Inquifitors, by their own Authority, took away the Tomb, 
 and fending it in a Veffel twenty Leagues out to Sea, caus'd it to be thrown 
 to the bottom of the Ocean. They thought to have burn'd it, but the Idola- 
 ters would have rak'd up the Afhes again, which would have been but a new food 
 to their Superftition. 
 
 There are in Goa abundance of Clergy-men ; for befides the Arch-Bifhop and 
 his Clergy, there are Dominicans, Auftin-Fryars , Francifcans, Barefoot Carme- 
 lites, Icjxits, and Capuchins, with two Religious Houfes, whereof the vluftin- 
 Fryars are Directors or Governours. The Religious Carmelites, that came Iaft, 
 are the beft feated ; for though they are fomewhat at a diftance from the heart 
 of the City, yet they have the advantage of a fine Air, and the moft healthy 
 fcituation in all Goa. It ftands upon a rifing ground, free to the refrefhmem\ of 
 the Wind j and it is very well built, with two Galleries one over the other. 
 The Auftin-Fryars, who were the firft that came to Goa, were indifferently well 
 ftated, at the foot of a little rifing ground, their Church alfo ftanding upon a 
 rifing ground, with a fair Piazza before it ; but when they had built their Ha- 
 bitation, the fefuits defir'd them to fell that rifing ground, which was then a 
 void place, under pretence of making a Garden in it for the recreation of their 
 Scholars. But after they had purchas'd it, they built a moft ftately College 
 upon the fame ground, which quite ftops and choaks up the Auftin-Fryars Co- 
 vent, fo that they have no ; Air at all. There happen'd feveral Contefts about 
 this bufinefs, but at length the fefuits got the better. The fefuites at Goa y 
 are known by the name of Paulifts 5 by reafon that their great Church is dedi- 
 cated to St. Paul. Nor do they wear Hats or Corner-Caps, as in Europe, but 
 only a certain Bonnet, refembling the Skull of a Hat without the Brims ; fome- 
 what like the Bonnets which the Grand Segnors Slaves wear } of which I have 
 given you a defcription in my relation of the Seraglio. Thev have five Houfes 
 in Goa, the College of St. Paul, the Seminary, the Profeffors Houfe, the No- 
 viciate, and the Good Jefus. The paintings in this Houfe are admirable pieces 
 of Workmanfhip. In the year 1663 the College was burnt by an accident 
 which happen'd in the night, fo that it coft them near fixty thoufand Crowns 
 to rebuild it. 
 
 The Hofpital of Goa was. formerly the moft famous in all India. For in re- 
 gard the Revenues thereof'were very great, the fick perfons were very care- 
 fully look'd after. But fince the change of the Governours, there is but very 
 bad accommodation ; and feveral of the Europeans that have been put in, have 
 never come forth again, but in their Coffins. However, they have lately found 
 Out a way to fave fome by frequent Bloodletting. They let Blood fometimes. 
 
78 Travels in India. Part. II. 
 
 as occafion requires, thirty or forty times, even as often as any ill- blood comes 
 forth ; as they did by me one time that I was at Surat. Butter and flefh is very 
 dangerous to them that are fick, and many times cofts them their lives. Formerly 
 they made feveral forts of well-tafted diet for thofe that recoverd : Now they 
 ferve the Patient only with young Beef-broth, and a dim of Rice. Umally the 
 poorer fort that recover their health, complain of drowth, and call for water. 
 But they that look after them, being only Blacks, or Mongrels, a fort of covetous 
 and pittilefs people, will not give them a drop, unlefs they put Money in their 
 hands 5 and to colour their wickednefs, they give it them by ftealth, pretending 
 what they do to be againft the Phyfitian's order. As for Sweet-meats and Pre- 
 ferves, there is no want of them ; but they are not a diet which contributes over- 
 much to the reftoring of decaid ftrength, efpecially in thofe hot Countreys, where 
 the body requires rather cooling and refrefhing nourifhment. 
 
 I have forgot one thing in reference to their more frequent bloodlettings than 
 among us Europeans. Which is, that to bring their colour again, and to reftorc 
 them to perfect health, they order the Patient to drink for twelve days together 
 three glaffes of Cow's Urine ; one in the morning, another at noon, and another at 
 night. But in regard it is a very naufeous fort of drink, the Patient fwallows as 
 little as he can, how defirous foever he may be of his health. They learnt this 
 remedy from the Idolaters of the Countrey ; and whether the Patient will take 
 it or no, they never let him ftir out of the Hofpital, till the twelve days are ex- 
 pired wherein he ought to drink it. 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 What the Author did, during his ftjy at Goa, the lift time he went 
 
 thither m the year 1648. 
 
 TW O days before I departed from Mingrela for Goa, I wrote to Monfteur 
 St. Amant y who was Engineer, to fend me a Man of War, for fear of the 
 Malvares which are upon the Coaft , which he immediately did. I parted from 
 Mingrela the 20th of January 1648 and arriv'd at Goa the i^th. And in regard 
 it was late, I ftaid till the next morning before I went to vifit the Vice-Roy, Don 
 Philip de Mafcaregnas, who had formerly been Governor of Ceylan. He made 
 me very welcome , and during the two months that I tarri'd at Goa y he fent to me 
 a Gentleman five or fix times, who brought me ftill to the Powder-Houfe, which 
 was without the City, where he often us'd to be. For he took great delight in 
 levelling Guns, wherein he ask'd my advice, efteeming very much a Piftol very 
 curioufly and richly inlaid, which I prefented him at my arrival. This Piftol the 
 Frm^-Conful at Aleppo gave me, the fellow of it being unhappily loft: for elfc 
 the Pair had been prefented by the French-Nation to the Bo/ha, who might then 
 have boafted himfelf the Mafter of the faireft and beft-made pair of Piftols in all 
 ^Afia. The Vice-Roy admits no perfon whatever, no not his Children to fit at his 
 Table. But there is a little partition in the Dining-room, where there is a Cloath 
 laid for the Principal Officers, as is ufual in the Courts of the GV»*,*«-Princes. 
 The next day I went to wait upon the Arch-Bifhop, and the next day after I de- 
 fign'd to have vifited the Inquifitor ; but I underftood by one of his Gentlemen 
 that he was bufy, writing into Portugal; there being two Ships ready to weigh 
 Anchor, that only ftaid for his difpatches. After the Ships were fet fail, he frnt 
 the fame Gentleman to tell me that he expected meat the Inquifition-Houfe, 
 about two or three in the afternoon. I fail'd not to, go thither at the time pre- 
 fix'd. When I came, a Page brought me into a large Hall, where after I had walk'd 
 a quarter of an hour, an Officer came and carri'd me into the Chamber where the 
 Inq.iifitor was. After I had paft through two Galleries, and fome Chambers I en- 
 ter'd into a little Chamber where the Inquifitor fat at the end of a great Table 
 like a Billiard-Table, which, as well as the Chairs and Stools in the Chamber, was 
 
 cover'd 
 
Book I. 
 
 Travels in India, 
 
 cover'd with green Cloath, fuch as is carri'd out of England. He told rne I was 
 welcome, and after a Complement or two, he ask'd me what Religion I was of? 
 I anfwer'd him, of the Proteftant Religion. He ask'd me then, if my Father and 
 Mother were of the fame Religion } and after I had fatisfi'd him that they were 
 fo;He told me again I was welcome,calling out at the fame time for fome other per- 
 fons to enter. Thereupon, the Hangings being held up, there came in ten or twelve 
 perfons out of another room hard- by. The firft of the Train were two Auftin- 
 Friars, follow'd by two Dominicans, two barefoot-Carmelites, and fome other of 
 the Clergy ; whom the Inquifitor told who I was, and aflur'd them I had brought 
 no prohibited Books $ for indeed, knowing their orders, I had left my Bible at 
 Mmgrela. We difoours'd about two hours of foveral things, but particularly of 
 my Travels ; the whole Company teftifying their defire to hear me make fome 
 repetitions. Three days after the Inquifitor lent for me to dine with him at a fair 
 Houfe, about half a league from the City, which belongs to the Barefoot- 
 Carmelites. It is one of the lovelieft Structures in all the Tidies ; and I will tell you 
 in fhort how the Carmelites came by it. There was a Gentleman in Goa, whofe 
 Father and Grandfather had got great Eftates by Merchandizing ; and he it was 
 that built this Houfe, which might well have paft for a mod: noble Palace. He 
 had no mind to Marry, but being altogether addicted to his devotions, he very 
 much frequented the Aftfiin-Fr'ms, to whom he fhew'd himfelf fo affectionate, 
 that he made his Will, wherein he gave them all his Eftate, provided they would 
 bury him on the right-fide of the High-Altar, where he intended a fumptuous 
 Monument. Now according to the common report, this Gentleman was a Leaper, 
 which fome jealous perfons endeavour'd to make the World believe, feeing he had 
 given away all his Eftate to the Aafiin-Fvhrs. Thereupon they told him that 
 the ground on the right-hand of the High- Altar was a place only fit for a V ice- 
 Roy 5 and that a leaprous perfon was not to be laid there : which was the opinion 
 of the generality of the people, and of a good part of the Auftm-Ffiars them- 
 felves. Thereupon fome of the Fathers of the Covent coming to fpeak with the 
 Gentleman,on purpofo to perHvade him to choofo fome other place in the Church, 
 he was fo offended at the propofal, that he never went more to the Anfim-Frms, 
 but always went to perform his devotions among the Carmelites, who receiv'd 
 him with open arms, and accepted the conditions which the other had refus'd. 
 Nor did he live long after he had interefted himfelf with that Order ; fo that the 
 Carmelites having magnificently buri'd him, enjoy'd all his Eftate, with this fame 
 Houfe, where we were fplendidly enrertain'd with Mufick all the time of Din- 
 ner. 
 
 I ftaid at Goa from the twenty-firft of January till the eleventh of March, de- 
 parting thence that very day in the evening, after I had taken leave of the Vice- 
 Roy. I begg'd leave alfo of the Vice-Roy for a .Fmjc^-Gentleman., whole name 
 was Belloy, to go along with me : which was granted me ; but through the impru- 
 dence of that Gentleman, who did not tell me the reafon of his coming to Goa, he 
 had like to have been taken from me again,and it was an even-lay,that we had not 
 been both carri'd to the Inquifition. This Gentleman had left the place of his 
 Nativity to travel over Holland, where having run himfelf in debt, and finding no 
 perfon that would lend him any Money, he refolv'd to go for India. Thereupon 
 he lifted himfelf as a private Souldier upon the accompt of the Holland-Com- 
 pany ; and came to Batavia at the fame time that the Hollanders made War againft 
 the Portugueses in Ceylan. Being arriv'd, they font him away among the recruits 
 which were font into that Ifland ; and the Holland-General feeing fuch a re- 
 inforcement of ftout men commanded by a Fr<?»^-Captain, whofe name was 
 . St. Amant, a perfon of great courage and experience ; he refolv'd to befiege Ne<- 
 gombe, a considerable Fort in the Ifland of Ceylan. They made two affaults, 
 wherein the French-men behav'd themfolves valiantly, efpecially St-. Amant, and 
 John de Rofe, who were both wounded. The General of the Dtitoh 3 feeing them 
 to be two fuch men of courage, made a promifo that if Negombe were taken, 
 one of them two fhould be Governor. The place was taken, and the General 
 kept his word with St. Amant : but the News being carri'd to Batavia, a young 
 Gentleman of kin to the General, and but newly arriv'd out of Holland, obta'm'd 
 Co be Governor of Negombe, to the prejudice of St, Amant, and came with an 
 
 order 
 
Travels in India. Part. II. 
 
 order from the Council at Batavia to dilplace him. St. Amant incens'd at fuch 
 ill-ulage, inveigles to his Party a matter of fifteen or twenty, molt part French- 
 Souldiers, among whom were Monjieur Belloy, Marefts, and John de Rofe, and re- 
 volts to the Portugueses. The Portugals encoarag'd by the reinforcement of fuch 
 a ftout, though fmall number of men, ftorm'd Negombe again, and took it at the 
 lecond affault. At that time was Don Philip de Mafcaregnas Governor of Ceylan, 
 and all the places belonging to it, under the jurisdiction of the Portugals. He 
 liv'd alio at the City of Colombo ; and then it was, that having receiv'd Letters 
 from Goo. that the Vice-Roy was dead, and that the Council and all the Nobility 
 defir'd him to come and fucceed in his place, he refolv'd to fee St. Amant and his 
 Companions before his departure, to the end he might beftow upon them fome 
 proper reward. So foon as he law them, he was refolv'd to take them ak>ng with 
 him to Goa. Whether it were that he thought he might have better opportu- 
 nities to advance them there ; or that he thought it convenient to have ftout men 
 about him, by reafon of the Malavares who lay in wait for him with forty Vef- 
 fels, whereas he had but twenty-two. But they were no fooner come to make 
 Cape-Comorin, when the winds rofe., and fuch a tempeft followed, that the Veffels 
 were dilperced, and many of them unfortunately caft away. They that were in 
 Don Philips' s VefTel did all they could to get to the fhoar, but feeing they could 
 not, and that the Ship was ready to fplit, St. Amant and his fix other Compani- 
 ons threw themfelves into the Sea with cords and pieces of planks, and fo- beftirr'd 
 themlelves, that they made a fhift not only to lave themlelves, but Don Philip 
 alfo. Hereupon Don Philip coming to Goa, after he had made his entrance, gave 
 to St. Amant the Command of Grand Mafter of the Artillery, and Superintendent- 
 General over all the Forts which the Portugueses had in India. He marri'd him 
 alfo to a young Virgin, with whom he had twenty-thoufand Crowns, whole Fa- 
 ther was an Englijh-man, who had quitted the Company, and marri'd a Natural 
 Daughter of one of the Vice-Rofs of Goa. As for John de Ro(e i he defir'd leave 
 of the Vice-Roy to return to Colombo, where, by his favour, he marri'd a young 
 Widow., half Native, half Portuguese, by whom he had a fair fortune. Marefts 
 the Vice-Roy made Captain of his Guards, the moft confiderable Command in all 
 his Court, being oblig'd to Marefts for his life, who was the perfon that bore him 
 upon his moulders to lave him from drowning. Du Belloy defir'd leave that he 
 might go to Macao, which was granted him. For he underftood that the greateft 
 part of the Portugal-Gentry retir'd to that place, after they had got Eftates by 
 Merchandizing $ that they were very courteous to ftrangers, and withal extremely 
 addicted to play, which was Du Bellofs chief delight. He liv'd two years at 
 Macao, very much to his content ; for when he wanted Money, the Gentry lent 
 it him freely. One day he had won above fix-thoufand Crowns ; but going to 
 play again, he was fo unfortunate as to lofe it all, befides a good fum of Money 
 which his friends had lent him. Being thus at a loft, and finding that no-body 
 would lend him any more Money, he began to fwear againft a Picture that hung 
 in the room, which was the Portraiture of fome Papiftical Saint ; laying in his 
 paffion, that it was an ufual thing with them that plaid, that if they faw a Saints 
 Picture, hang in their fight, it made them lole; and that if that Picture had not 
 been there, he had certainly won. Immediately the Inquifitor was inform'd of 
 this, (for in every City in India under the Jurifdiction of the Portugueses there is 
 one. However his power is limited ; having no other authority than to leize 
 the perfon of him that lays or acts any thing againft their Religion, to hear the 
 Witnefies, and to fend the Offender with the examinations to Goa in the firft Ship 
 which is bound thither : where the Inquifitor-General has an abfolute Power 
 either to ablblve him, or to put him to death. Thereupon Du Belloy was put a- 
 board a Imall Veftel of ten or twelve Guns loaded with Irons ; with a ftrict charge 
 to the Captain to keep him fate, and fome threats that he Ihould be anlwerable 
 for him if he efcap'd. But fo foon as the Ship was out at Sea, the Captain, who 
 was of a noble dilpofition, and knew Du Belloy to be of a good Family, took off 
 his Irons, and made him fit at his own Table $ giving him alfo Linnen, and other 
 convenient Apparel necefiary for the Voyage, which was to continue forty days. 
 They put into Goa the nineteenth of February 1649 ; and the Ship was no fooner 
 come into Harbour, but St, Amant came a-board by the Governor's order, as weH 
 
 to 
 
 80 
 
Book! Travels ///India. 8 1 
 
 to receive his Letters, as to hear what news in China. But his furprize was 
 very great, to fee Belloy in that condition, and that the Captain would not Jet 
 him go, before he had furrender'd him up into the hands of the Inquifitor. Ne- 
 vertheleft, in regard that St. Amant was a perfon of great credit, he obtain'd 
 of the Captain, that Belloy fhould go along with him into the City. As for Belloy 
 he immediately and for the nonce fhifted Himfelf into his old Cloaths, which 
 were all to tatters and full of Vermin ; and St. Amant, who knew there was 
 no dallying with the Inquifition, took that feafon to prefent Him to the Inqui- 
 fitor j who feeing a Gentleman in fuch a fad condition, had fome compaffion upon 
 him, and allow'd him the whole City for his.Prifbn; on condition he fhould 
 furrender his body upon demand, when he underftood what was inform'd againft 
 him. In the interim St. Amant brings Dh Belloy to my Lodging juft as I was 
 going to vifit the Arch-Bifhop of Mira, whom I formerly knew at Conftahti- 
 nople, when he was Prior of the Franciscans at Galata. I defir'd them to ftay 
 a while and to dine with me, which they did ; after which I proffer'd my Houfe 
 and Table to Dh Belloy, who liv'd with me ; and for whom I alfb bought two 
 new Suits of Apparel, and Linnen convenient. However, all the while that I 
 ftay'd at Goa, which was ten or twelve days, I could not perfwade the Sieur 
 Dh Belloy to put oh thofe new Cloaths, not knowing the reaibn, though he 
 promis'd me every day. But being upon my departure, I told him I was go- 
 ing to take leave of the Vice-Roy ; whereupon he defir'd me to procure leave 
 for him alfo ; which I did. We departed toward evening in the fame Veffel 
 wherein I came, and about midnight the Sieur Belloy began to fhift himfelf, and 
 when He had done he threw his . old raggs into the Sea, (wearing againft the In- 
 quifition like a mad man; I undemanding nothing all this while of the bufinefs, 
 When I heard him fwear in that manner, I told him we were not yet out of 
 the Porttigals hands; neither were he and I with five or fix Servants, able to 
 defend our felves againft forty Sea-men that belong'd to the Ship. I ask'd him 
 then, why he {wore fo heartily againft the Inquifition ; he reply'd, that he Would 
 tell me all the circumftances of the ftory ; which he did when we came to Min- 
 grela, which was about eight a Clock in the morning. When we landed we 
 met certain Hollanders with the Commander, who were eating Oyfters and 
 drinking Sack upon the Shoar. Immediately they ask'd me who that perfon was 
 with me. i told them it was a Gentleman who attending the French Ambafta- 
 dor into Portugal, had taken Shipping there for India, together with four or five 
 more whom he had left at Goa ; but that neither the fcituation of the place, 
 nor the humour of the Portugals pleafing him, he had defir'd my affiftarcce in 
 his return for Europe-. Three or four days after, I bought him an Oxe to carry 
 him to S*rat - s and I gave him a Servant to affift him, together with a Letter 
 to Father Zenon, a Capuchin, wherein I defir'd him to fpeak to my Broker to 
 pay him ten Crowns a month for his fubfiftence, and to defire of the Englijh 
 Prefident to embark him for Europe rwitfi the firft opportunity. But it fell out 
 contrary to my intentions ; for Father Zenon carri'd him back again along with 
 him to Goa, where he had fome bufinefs to do for Father Ephraim his Com- 
 panion ; of whom I (hall fpeak in the next Chapter. Father Zemn without 
 doubt believ'd, that Dh Belloy making his appearance to the Inquifition, and 
 defiring his pardon, might have eafily obtain'd it. Tis very true He did obtain 
 it, but it was after he had been two years in the Inquifition, from which he 
 was not difcharg d but with a Sulphur'd Shirt, with a St. Andrews Crofs upon 
 his Stomack. There was with him another Gentleman, call'd Lewis de Bar upon 
 the Seine, who Was us'd in the fame manner ; and they always put them to ac- 
 company thofe who were put to death. The Sieur Dh Belloy did very ill to 
 return to Goa, and worfe to appear afterwards again at Mingela, where the 
 Hollanders, who underftanding he had formerly revolted out of their fer- 
 vice, by the intelligence they receiv'd from their Commander at Surat, feiz'd 
 his perfon, and Tent him away in a Ship that was going for Batavia. They pre- 
 tended that they fent him to the General of the Company, to do with him as 
 he fhould think fitting. But I am in part alfur'd, that as foon as the Veffel was 
 out at Sea, they put the poor Gentleman into a Sack, and threw him into the 
 Sea, This was the end of the Sieur Dti Bellon, 
 
 * M' As 
 
82 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 PartH. 
 
 As for Sieur des Mar efts , he was a Gentleman, born in the Dauphinate, near 
 to Loriol, who having kill'd his Adverfary in a Due!, fled into Poland, where 
 he fo far fignaliz'd himfelf, that he won the efteem and affection of the General 
 of the Pohnian Army. At that time the Grand Seignior kept in the Prifon of 
 the Seven Towers at Conftantinople, two Noble Polonians j whereupon the Po- 
 lonian General obferving the courage and addrefc of this Des Marefts, who was 
 a daring Fellow, and a good Engineer befides, made a propofal to him, to go to 
 Conftantinople, and to endeavour, if he 'could by any means in the world, to 
 fet thofe Princes at liberty. Des Marefts willingly accepted the employment, 
 and without doubt he had fucceeded in his defign, had he not been difcovered 
 by fome Turks, who accus'd him for having been too circumfpect in viewing 
 the feven Towers, feeing him with a Chalk Pencil in his hand, ready to take 
 the draught thereof, which feem'd to tend to no good defign. This had been 
 enough to have ruin'd the Gentleman, had not Monfieur de Cefty the French 
 Ambaffadour ftifl'd the further examination of the bufincfs by fome preftnt 5 
 which in Turkey is the moft fovereign remedy upon all accidents of danger ; telling 
 the ^Jier, that he was only a French Gentleman that travel'd for his pleafure, and 
 one that was going for Perfta with the firft opportunity. However it was not 
 Marefts defign at that time to go very far, for he intended to^have return'd into 
 Poland, fo foon as he had us'd his utmoft endeavours to fet the Princes at liberty % 
 but for his own fafety it behov'd him to give it out that he was gone to Perfiai 
 and at length he was conftrain'd to go thither indeed. As for the Grand Seignior 3 
 he had refolv'd never to fet due two Noblemen. at liberty. But at length they 
 were fo fortunate as to gain the love of a young Turl^, who was the Son of the 
 Captain of the Seven Towers •, with whom the Father ufually trufted the Keys 
 to open and fhut the Gates of the Prifon. The night appointed for their flight, 
 he made as if he had fhut fome doors, the Padlocks whereof he left all open. 
 But he durft not do fo by the two firft Gates, near one of which the Captain 
 with a ltrong Guard lay, for fear of being difcover'd. The young man, who 
 had entirely devoted himfelf to ferve the Princes, having forefeen this diffi- 
 culty before, had bethought himfelf of Rope- Ladders to get over the two 
 Walls j to which purpofe it was neceflary to have a correfpondence within and 
 without. Finding therefore that becaufe the utmoft of feverity was not us'd 
 toward thofe Princes, they had the liberty to receive feveral Difhes of Meat 
 from the French AmbafTadors Kitchin, the Clerk of the Kitchin was made of the 
 plot, who thereupon fent them in feveral Cords in Parties, whereof they made 
 Ladders. The bufinefs fucceeded fo well, that the elcape was made, and the 
 young Turk^ fled with the Polonian Lords into Poland, where he turn'd Chriftian, 
 and receiv'd ample rewards both in Employments and Money. The fame gra- 
 titude proportionably was obferv'd toward thofe who had contributed toward 
 the liberty of the Princes, who amply acknowledg'd the fcrvices which they 
 had receiv'd from every one of them. 
 
 In the mean time the Sieur Des Marefts arrives at Ifpahan, and addrefling 
 himfelf to the Capuchin Fryars, they brought him to my Lodging, where he 
 had the freedom of my Table , and a Chamber. He ftaid fome time at Ifpa- 
 han, during which he got acquainted with the Englijh and Hollanders, who had 
 a great efteem for him, finding him to be a perfon of merit. But it happen'd 
 one day, that his curiofity putting him upon a bold attempt, had like to have 
 been the ruine of him and all the Franks in Jfpahan. Near the Inn where we 
 lodg'd there was a large Bath, where the men and women by turns take their 
 times to come and bath themfelves ; and where the Queen of Viftapom, during 
 her -flay at Ifpahan, as fhe return'd home to Mecca, delighted to go and prattle 
 with the French mens wives. The Sieur Des Marefts having a paffionate de- 
 fire to fee what the women did, fatisfi'd his curiofity, by means of a cranny in 
 the Arch of the Vault, which he had obferv'd when he went thither j for having 
 found out a way without fide to get up to that Arch, through a blind hole that " 
 was next to the Inn where we lay, the Arch being flat, as I have defcrib'd them 
 in my relations of Perfia, and the Serdglio, he laid himfelf upon his belly, and 
 law through the cranny what he fo much Iong'd to behold. He was at this fport 
 fome ten or twelve times ; and not being able to contain himfelf, he told me 
 
 one 
 
Book I. Travels in India. 
 
 one day what he had done. I bid him have a care of going rhere any more, 
 for fear of ruining himfelf and all the French men in the City. But he contrary 
 to my advice went thither two or three times after that, till at length he was dif- 
 cover'd by one of the women of the Bath that took care of the Linnen, and 
 dry them without, upon Perches as high as the top of the Arch, to which 
 they get up by a little Ladder. The woman feeing a man lyi(jg all along upon 
 his belly, feiz'd upon his Hat, and began to cry out. But Marefts, to get him- 
 felf out of the mire, and to hinder the woman from making more noife, put 
 two Tomans into her hand. When he return'd to the Inn, I perceiv'd him to look 
 as if he had been fcar'd, and conjecturing that fome ill accident had befall'n 
 him, I prefs'd him to confefs what was the matter. He was loath at firft, but 
 at length he confefs'd how he had been difcover'd by a woman, and how he had 
 Itop'd her mouth with money. Thereupon I told him, that there was a neceffity * 
 for him to fly, for that the danger wa-s far greater than he imagin'd. The Dutch 
 Prefident alfo, to whom I thought it convenient to tell what had pafs'd, was of 
 the fame opinion ; upon which we gave him a Mu'e, and as much money as was 
 neceflary for him, ordering him to go to Bander , and thence by Sea to Surat. 
 I gave him a Letter of Recommendation to the EngUjh Prefident, who was my 
 Friend ; whom I alfo dcfir'd to let him have two hundred Crowns, if he had oc- 
 cafion for them. I wrote very much in his commendation ; and mention d the 
 proffer which the Dutch Prefident at Ifpahan had made him, to fend him with 
 Letters to the General, who would not fail to employ him according to his 
 merit. For indeed at that time that the Hollanders had War with the Portugucfes 
 in Ceylan, any perfon of wit and courage, like the Sieur Des Marefts, was very 
 acceptable to them. Which made them very earneft with him, to take an em- 
 ployment among them ; and to that end , they carefs'd him, and prefented him 
 very nobly during his ftav at Ifpahan. But he told thenv, that not being of their 
 Religion, he was unwilling to ferve them againft the Portuguefes 5 which was 
 the only reafon that hinder'd him from accepting the offers which I had made 
 him. Thefe particulars I wrote in his behalf to the EngUjh Prefident at Surat j 
 fo that the Sieur Des Marefts being defirous to go to Goa to ferve the Portu- 
 gal, the Prefident wrote in his behalf to the Vice-Roy, by whom he was very 
 much belov'd, relating to him, befides, what the Hollanders had proffer'd him, 
 that his recommendation might be the more acceptable. Thereupon the Vice- 
 Roy made him very welcome ; and upon the Sieur Marefts defire to be em- 
 ploy'd in Ceylan in the Portugal Army, he fent him away with the firft oppor- 
 tunity, with Letters of Recommendation to Don Philip de Mafcarcgnas, who 
 was then Governour of Ceylan, and all thofe places that belong'd to it under 
 tbe jurifdiction of the Portuguefes. It happen 'd three days after, that they loft 
 Nagombe, and when they retook it, the Sieur Marefts was one of thofe that 
 receiv'd moft wounds, and won moft honour in the Affaults. -He it was that 
 afterwards was moft inftrumental in faving Don Philip from being drown'd; fb 
 that when Don Philip came to be Vice-Roy of Goa, he could not think he de- 
 ferv'da lefs reward than the Command of his Guards ; in which employment he 
 dy'd within three or four months. He was very much lamented by the Vice- 
 Roy, by whom he was entirely belov'd. But he left his Eftate to a Prieft, with 
 whom had contracted a particular friendfhip ; upon condition that he fhould 
 only pay me two hundred and fifty Crowns that I had lent him j which how- 
 ever I had much ado to get out of the Prieft's Clutches. 
 
 While I ftay'd at Goa, I was told a pretty ftory concerning a Caravel, or 
 Portugal Velfel, which arriv'd there but a little before, and came from Lisbon. 
 When (he was about to make the Cape of Good Hope, there happen'd fuch a 
 violent Tempeft, as lafted five or fix hours, and put the Marriners to fuch a 
 nonplus, that they knew not where they were. At length they fell into a Bay, 
 where they faw feveral Inhabitants ; and as foon as they came to an Anchor, they 
 beheld the fhore cover'd with men, women, and children, that teftifi'd a ftrange 
 amazement to fee white people, and fuch kind of building as the Caravel. The 
 mifchief was , that they could not underftand one another, but by figns. But 
 after the Portugals had giv'n thofe Cafres Tobacco, Bisket, and Water, the next 
 day thb people brought them a great quantity of young Oftriches, and other 
 
 * M 2 Fowl 
 
Travels in India. 
 
 PartH 
 
 Fowl that feem'd to referable large Geefe, but fo fat, that they had very little 
 lean. The Feathers of thofe Birds' were very lovely, and thofe upon the belly 
 proper for Beds. One of the Portuguefe Mariners fold me a large Cufhion fturft 
 with thofe Feathers, and related to me what had happen'd to them in that 
 Bay, where they ftay'd feven and twenty days. They gave thofe Cafres one 
 thing or other eatery foot, as Knives, Axes, falfe Coral, and falfe Pearls, out 
 of hopes to have difcoverd fome Trade, and particularly whether they had 
 any Gold ; for they obferv'd that fome of them wore pieces of Gold in their 
 Ears ; fome beaten thin upon one fide, and others like the Nails of a Lock. 
 They brought two of the people to Goa ; and I faw one of them that wore 
 feveral of thofe pieces of Gold in feveral parts of each Ear. The Mariner 
 told me, that there were fome of their women that wore of thofe pieces of 
 *Gold under their Chins, and in their Noftrils. Eight or nine days after the 
 Portugals arriv'd in that Bay, thofe Cafres brought them little pieces of Am- 
 bergreefe, fome Gold, but very little j fome Elephants teeth, but very fmall * 
 fome Oftriches, and other Birds, fome Venifon ; but for Fifh, there was abun- 
 dance. The Portugals endeavour'd all they could by figns to know where they 
 found the Ambergreefe, for it was very good. The Vice-Roy fhew'd me a 
 a piece that weiglfd not above half an Ounce, but he allur'd me withal 1, that 
 he had never feen fo good. They alfo labour'd to difcover where they had 
 the Gold. After the Elephants teeth they made no great enquiry, feeing a great 
 number of Elephants that came to drink at a River that threw it felf into the 
 Bay. At length after they had ftay'd three weeks,the Po tugals finding it impoffible 
 for them to difcover any thing more, becaufe they underftood not one ano- 
 ther, refolv'd to fet fail with the firft wind. And becaufe thev had always 
 fome of thefe Cafres aboard, in regard thev were very liberal of their Tobacco, 
 Bisket, and ftrong Water, they thought good to bring two of them along in 
 the Veffel j in hopes that they might learn the Portugu-fc Language, or that 
 there might fome Child be found out that might underftand what they faid. 
 The Mariners told me, that when they fet fail, after the Cafres faw that they 
 had carri'd two of their people away, who perhaps were no inconfiderable 
 perfons, they tore their Hair, ftruck their Brealts as if they had been frantick s 
 and fet up a moft horrible yelling and howling. When they were brought to Goa t 
 they could never be brought to learn any thing of the Portugal Language. So that 
 they could gettout of them nothing of that further difcovery at which they 
 aim'd, of a Country from whence they only brought away two pound of Gold, 
 three pound of Ambergreefe, and thirty-five or forty Elephants teeth. One of 
 the Cafres liv'd but fix months, the other fifteen j but both languifh'd and pin'd 
 to death for grief to be fo trapann'd. 
 
 From Goa I pafs'd to MingreU, where there fell out an accident not to be 
 forgotten. An Idolater dying, and the Fire being ready prepar'd for the burn- 
 ing of the Body, his Wife who had no Children, by the permiffion of the 
 Governour, came to the Fire, and ftood among the Priefts and her Kindred, 
 to be burnt with the Body of her deceas'd Husband. As they were taking 
 three turns, according to cuftom, about the place where the Fire was kindl'd, 
 there fell of a fudden fo violent a Shower, that the Priefts willing to get out 
 of the rain, thruft the Woman all along into the Fire. But the Shower was 
 fo vehement, and endur'd fb long a while, that the Fire was quench'd, and the 
 Woman was not burn'd. About midnight fhe rofe, and went and knock'd at 
 the door of one of her Kinfmens Houfes, where Father Zenon and many Hol- 
 landers faw her, looking fo gbaftly and grimly, that it was enough to have 
 fcar'd them j however the pain that fhe endur'd did not fo far terrifie her, but 
 that three days after accompany'd by her Kindred^ fhe went and was burn'd 
 according to her firft intention. 
 
 CHAP, 
 
Book I Travels in India. 
 
 chap. xv. 
 
 The Story of Father Ephraim, and how he was j>nt into the Inquijition 
 
 at Goa by a furfrifal. 
 
 THE Chekj who had marri'd the Eldeft of the Princefles of Golconda, not be- 
 ing able to perfwade Father Ephraim to ftay at Bagnabar, where he promised 
 to build him an Houfe and a Church, gave him an Ox and two Men to carry him 
 to Maflipatan, where he ftaid to embark for Pegu, according to the order of his 
 Superiors. But finding no Veflel ready to fet fail,the Englijh drew him to Madref- 
 where they have a Fort call'd St.George,and a general Factory for every thing 
 that concerns the Conntreys of Golconda, Pegu and Bengal*. They over-perfwa- 
 ded him that he might reap a fairer Harveft in this place, than in any other part 
 of the Indies-, to which end they prefently built him a very neat Houfe, and a 
 Church. But in the conclufion, the Englijh fought not fb much the intereft of 
 Father Ep rraim, as their own. For Madrefpatan is but half a league from St. 
 Thomas, a Sea-Town upon the Coaft of Cormandel, indifferently well-built, as for- 
 merly belonging to the Portugal*. In that place there was a very great Trade, 
 efpecially for Calicuts, and a very great number of Merchants and Workmen liv'd 
 there, the greateft part whereof defir'd to inhabit at Madrefpatan with the Eng- 
 lijh, but that there was no place for them to exercife their Religion in that place. 
 But when the EhgUJh had built a Church, and perfwaded Father Ephraim to ftay, 
 many of the Vortuguez.es quitted St. Thomas y by reafbn of the frequent Preaching 
 of Father Ephraim, and his great care as well of the Natives,, as of the Portu- 
 gal. Father Ephraim was born at Auxerre, the Brother of Monfieur Chateau ds 
 £oys } Counfellor of the Parliament of Paris ; who was very happy in learning 
 Languages, fo that in a little time he (poke Englijh and Portugues perfectly well. 
 But now the Clergy of St. Thomas-Church, feeing Father Ephraim in fo high a re- 
 putation, and that he drew the greateft part of their Congregation to Madrefpa- 
 tan, were lb enrag'd againft him, that they refolv'd to mine him. And thus they 
 Jaid their plot. The Englifh and Portugueses being neer-neighbours, could not 
 choofe but have feveral quarrels one among another, and ftill Father Ephraim 
 was appli'd to for the compofing their differences. Now one day it happena, that 
 the Portugueses quarrell'd on purpofe with fome Englijh Mariners that were in 
 St. Thomas-Road, and the Englijh came by the worft. The Englijh Prefident re- 
 viving to have fatisfaftion for the injury, a War broke out between the two Na- 
 tions : which had ruin'd all the Trade of that Countrey, had not the Merchants 
 on both fides been very diligent to bring things to an accommodation : not know- 
 ing any thing of the wicked contrivance of particular perfons againft Father 
 Ephraim. But all the interpofition of the Merchants avail'd nothing : the Friar 
 muft be concern d in the affair, he muft be the Mediator to act between party 
 and party, which he readily accepted. But he was no fooner enter'd into St. Tho- 
 mas, but he was feiz'd by ten or twelve Officers of the Inquifition, who ihipp'd 
 him away in a Frigat that was bound at the fame time for Goa. They fetter d and 
 manacPd him, and kept him two and twenty days at Sta, before they would let 
 him once put his foot a-fhoar : though the belt part of the Mariners lay a-fhoar 
 every night. When they came to Goa, they ftaid till night before they would land 
 Father Ephraim, to carry him to the fnquifition-Hvufe. For they were afraid, 
 left if they fliould land him in the day, the people fhould know of it, and rife in 
 the refcue of a perfon, who was in an high veneration over all India. The news 
 was prefently fpread abroad in all parts, that Father Ephraim was in the Inquifi- 
 tion, which very much amaz'd all the French-men. But he that was moft fur- 
 pr'iz'd, and moft troubl'd at it was Friar Zenon, the Capuchin, who had been for- 
 merly Father Ephraim & Companion ; who after he had confulted his friends, re- 
 folv'd to go to Goa, though he were put into the Inquifition himfelf For when 
 a man is once fhut up there, if any one have the boldnefs to fpeak to the Inquiii- 
 tor, or to any of his Councel in his behalf, he is prefently put into the Inquifition 
 
Travels in India. 
 
 Part. II. 
 
 alfo, and accounted a greater Offender than the other. Neither the Arch Bifhop 
 nor the Vice-Roy themfelves dare interpofe ; though they are the only two per- 
 fons over whom the Inquiftion has no power. For if they do any thing to ottend 
 them, they prefently write to the Inquifitor and his Council in Portugal, and as the 
 King and the Inquifitor- General commands, they either proceed againft, or fend 
 thofe two great perfons into Portugal. 
 
 Not withstand ing all thefe confederations, Father Zenon, taking along with him 
 the Sicur de la Boulay,, a decaid Gentleman, goes to Goa-, where, when he arriv'd, 
 he was vifited by fome friends, who advile him to have a care not to open his 
 mouth in the behalf of Father Ephraim, unlefs he intended to bear him company 
 in the. Incjmfuion. Father Zenon feeing he could do nothing at Goa, advis'd the 
 Sieur de Boulay to return to Swrat : and goes himfelf directly to Madrefpatan, more 
 particularly to inform himfelf concerning the reafon of Father Ephraim's being 
 fent away. But when he underftood how he had been betraid at St. Thomas, he 
 refolv'd to have fatisfaclion, and without acquainting the £>jg///k-Prefident, com- 
 municates his defign to the Captain that commanded in the Fort : Who being in- 
 cens'd, as were all the. Souldiers, at the injury done Father Ephraim, not only 
 approv'd, but alfo promis'd Father Zenon to affift him in his defign. Thereupon 
 the Father fets his fpies ; and underftanding by them, that the Governor of St.Tho- 
 mas went every Saturday-morning, early, to a Chappel upon a Mountain half a. 
 league from the City, dedicated to the Vvcgm-Mary, he caufes three Iron-Bars to 
 be fix'd in the window of a little Chamber in theCovent, with two good locks to 
 the door, and as many padlocks. And having fo done, he goes to the Governor 
 of the Fort, who was an /rv/fr-man, and a very ftout perfon ; who with thirty 
 Souldiers, and Father Zenon , iffu'd out of the Fort about midnight,, and hid them- 
 felves till dav near the Chappel, in a part of the Mountain, where they could not 
 be difcoyer d. The Governor of St. Tmmas came exactly, according to his cuftom, 
 a little after Sun-rifing ; and as foon as ever he alighted from his Pallequin, was 
 immediately furprh.'d by the Ambu(cade,and carri'd to Majlipatan, into the Cham- 
 ber in the Covent which the Friar had provided for him. The- Governor thus 
 furpriz'd, made. great proteftations againft Father Zenon, and threaten'd him with 
 what the King would do when he fhould come to hear what he had practis'd 
 againit the Governor of one of his Garrifons. To which Father Zenon laid no 
 more, but only that he believ'cLthat he was better us'd at Madrefpatan, than Fa- 
 ther Ephraim was us'd at the Inquifition at Goa, whither he had fent him : That if 
 he would obtain liberty for Father Ephraim to return, he would leave him in the. 
 lame place where they had feiz'd his perfon, with as much Juftice,, as he had to 
 fend Father Ephraim to Goa,. Many people came to the EngUjh Prefident, de-- 
 firing him to ufe his authority for the Governor's liberty. But his anfwer was, 
 that the Governor was not in his jurifdidion, neither could he compel Father Ze- 
 non to releafe him, who had been one of the Authors of the injury -which had 
 been done his Companion. So that he contented himfelf only to defire of Fa- 
 ther Zenon that his Prifoner might dine at his Table in the Fort, promifmg him to 
 return him when he mould require hisbodv; a requrft which he eafily obtain'd, 
 but could not fo eafily keep his word. For the Drummer of the Garrifon being a 
 Ere nch-man, with a Merchant of Marfeilles, call'd Foboli, then in the Fort, two 
 days after came to the Governor, and promis'd him, for a good reward, to pro- 
 cure hisefcape. The agreement being made, the Drummer in the morning beat . 
 the Reveilles fooner than he was wont to do, and lowder, while Roboli and the Go-i 
 vernorVlet themfelves down at a corner of a Baftion thdX was not very high j and 
 were prefently as nimbly follow'd by the Drummer ; fo that Madrefpatan and St. 
 Thomas being but half a league afunder, they were all three in the Town before, 
 their efcape was known. The whole City greatly rejoye'd at the return of their | 
 Governor, and immediately difpatch'd away a Barque to Goa to carry the news. 
 The Drummer alio and the Merchant fet fail at the fame time, and when they 
 came to Goa with Letters of recommendation in their behalf there was no Houle 
 or Covent which did not make them Prefents : The Vice-Roy alfo himfelf carefs'd 
 them extremely, and took them into his own Ship to have carri'd them into Por-> 
 tugal along with him 'j but both he and the two French-men dy'd at Sea. 
 
 Never 
 
Book I. Travels in India. 
 
 Never did any Vice-Roy depart from Goa fo rich as Don Philippo de Mafcareg- 
 nas ; for he had a great parcel of Diamonds, all large ftones, from ten Carats to 
 forty. He mew 'd me two when I was at Goa, one whereof weigh'd j7 Carats, the 
 other 67 and an half 5 clean Stones, of an excellent water, and cut after the In- 
 dian manner. The report was that the Vice-Roy was poifon'd in the Ship, and 
 that it was a juft punimment of Heaven, for that he had poifon'd feveral others, 
 efpecially when he was Governor of Ceylan. He had always moft exquifite poi- 
 fons by him, ro make ufe of when his revenge requir'd it : for which reafon, ha- 
 ving rais'd himfelf many enemies, one morning he was found hung in Effigie in 
 Goa i when I was there in the year 1648. 
 
 In the mean time, the Imprifonment of Father Ephraim made a great noife in 
 Europe j Monfieur de Chafieau des Bois his Brother complain'd to the Portugal Em- 
 baffador, who prefently wrote to the King his Mafter to fend a pofitive command 
 by the firft Ships, that Father Ephraim mould be difcharg'd. The Pope alfo wrote, 
 declaring that he would excommunicate all the Clergy of Goa, if they did not fet 
 him at liberty. But all this fignifi'd nothing. So that Father Ephraim was be- 
 holding for his liberty to none but the King of Golconda, who had a love for him s 
 andwould have had him have ftaid at Bagnagar. For the King was then at Wars with 
 the Raja of Carnatica, and his Army lay round about St. Thomas's. Hearing there- 
 fore what a bafe trick the Portugueses had plaid with Father Ephraim, he lent Or- 
 ders to his General Mirgimola to lay fiege to the Town, and put all to Fire and 
 Sword, unlefs the Governor would make him a firm promife that Father Ephraim 
 mould be fet at liberty in two months. A Copy of this Order was fent to the 
 Governor, which fo alarm'd the Town, that they difpatch'd away Barque after 
 Barque, to prefs the Vice-Roy to ufe his endeavours for the releafe of Father 
 'Ephraim. Thereupon he was releas'd ; but though the door w r ere fet open, he 
 would not ftir, till all the Religious Perfons in Goa came in ProcefTion to fetch 
 him out. When he was at liberty he fpent 1 j days in the Convent of the Capu- 
 chins. I have heard Father Ephraim fay feveral times, that nothing troubl'd him 
 fo much all the while of his imprifonment, as to fee the ignorance of the Inquifitor 
 and his Councel, when they put him any queftion : and that he did not believe 
 that any one of them had ever read the Scripture. They laid him in the fame 
 Chamber, with a Maltefe, who never (poke two words without a defperate oath j 
 and took Tobacco all day, and a good part of the night, which was very offenfive 
 to Father Ephraim. 
 
 When the Inquifitors feize upon any perfon, they fearch him prefently 3 and as 
 for his Goods and wearing-Apparel, it is fet down in an Inventory, to be return 'd 
 him again in cafe he be acquitted j but if he have any Gold, Silver, or Jewels, 
 that is never fet down ; but is carri'd to the Inquifitor to defray the expences of 
 the Procefs. They fearch'd the Reverend Father Ephraim, but found nothing in 
 his Cloak- pockets, unlefs it were a Comb^ an Inkhorn, and two or three Hand- 
 kerchiefs. But forgetting to fearch the little Pockets which the Capuchins carry 
 in their fleeves toward their armpits, they left him four or five black-lead pens,' 
 Thefe Pencils did him a great kindnefs. For the Maltefe calling for fuch a deal of 
 Tobacco, which is always cut and ti'd up in white-paper, for the profit of the 
 feller,who weighs both Tobacco and Paper together : thefe Papers Father Ephraim 
 kept very charily, and with his Pencil wrote therein whatever he had ftudi'd at 
 any time : though he loft the fight of one of his eyes, through the darknefs of 
 the Chamber, which had but one window, half a foot fquare, and barr'd with iron. 
 They would never fo much as lend him a Book, or let him have an end of Candle; 
 but us'd him as bad as a certain Mifcreant that had been twice let out already with 
 his Shirt fnlphur'd, and a St. Andrew s-Crofs upon his ftomach, in company with 
 thofe that are lead to the Gallows, and was then come in again. 
 
 Father Ephraim having ftaid 15- days in the Convent of the Capuchins to re- 
 cover his ftrength after 20 months imprifonment, return d for Madrefpatan, and 
 palling through Golconda 3 went to return his humble thanks to the King of Gol- 
 colda and his Son-in-law, who had fo highly interefs'd themfelves for his liberty. 
 The King importun'd him again to ftay at Bagnagar, but feeing him refolv'd to re- 
 turn to his Convent at Madrefpatan, they gave him as before, an Oxe, two Ser- 
 vants, antl Money for his journey. 
 
 CHAP, 
 
 I 
 
88 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 PartH 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 The Road jrom Goa to Mafiipatan through Cochin, here dtfcritid in 
 the ffory of the taking of that City by the Hollanders. 
 
 AFter the Dutch had difpoflefs'd the Portugals of whatever they had in Cey- 
 lan, they caft their eyes upon Cochin, in the Territories whereof grows 
 the Baftard Cinnamon, which hinder'd the utterance of Ceylan Cinnamon. For 
 the Merchants feeing that the Hollanders kept up their Cinnamon fo dear, bought 
 up that of Cochin, which they had very cheap ; and that coming into requeft, 
 was tranlported to Gomron, and diftributed there among the. Merchants that 
 came from Perfia, from Tartary, from Mofcovia, from Georgia, Mingrela, and 
 all the places upon the black Sea. It was alfo carried away in great quantities 
 by the Merchants of Balfara and Bagdat, who furnifh Arabia ; as alfo by the 
 Merchants of Mesopotamia, Anatolia, Conflantinople, Romania, Hungary, and Po- 
 land. For in all thofe Countries^ they ufe it either whole or beaten in moft 
 of their meats, to heighten the tafte thereof. 
 
 The Army which was commanded out of Batavia for the Siege of Cochin^ 
 landed at a place calPd Belli-Porto ; where the Hollanders had a Fort made of 
 Palm-Trees. It is near to Cranganor, a fmall City which the Hollanders took 
 the year before ; not being able to take Cochin then, though they had made 
 fome attempts upon it. So foon as the Army landed, they march'd within 
 Cannon- (hot of the City, there being a River between them and the City. 
 That part where the Hollanders encamp'd, is call'd Bclle-Ephie, where after they 
 had fortifi'd themfelves, as well as the Nature of the place would permit, they 
 rais'd fome Batteries, which could not much annoy the City, by reafon of the 
 diftance. They lay there till they had recruits of more men ; for they had 
 but three Ships full, though he that commanded them were one of the braveft 
 Captains of his time. Some few days after, the Governour of Amboyna ar- 
 riv'd with two Ships more, and afterwards a Dutch Captain brought a great 
 number of Chinglas, who are the Natives of the Ifland of Ceylan. For the 
 Forces of the Hollander would not be fo confiderabl^ as they are, did they nor 
 make ufe of the Natives of the Country to fill up the Companies which they 
 bring out of Europe. The Natives of Ceylan, are good for digging Trenches, 
 and raifing Batteries, but for a Storm they fignifie little. Thofe of Amboyna zre 
 good Soldiers, four hundred of which were left at Belle-Epine. The Body of 
 the Army took Shipping again, and landed near to Cochin, not far from a Church 
 dedicated to St. Andrew j where the Portugals, with certain Malavares, feem'd 
 to have ftay'd aftiore for the Hollanders coming : But feeing the Enemy to land 
 with fo much refolution, they only gave them one Volly and retreated. In 
 their March the Hollanders defcry'd certain Companies of Portugu'efes near the 
 Sea- more, others fomewhat farther up in the Land, in a Church call'd St. fohns. 
 Thereupon they fent out fome Horfemen to difcover their number j but the 
 Portugals ftill retreated,, after they had fet fire to the Church. Thereupon the 
 Hollanders made their approaches to the Town; and after they had befieg'd 
 it for fome time, a French Soldier, who was under their pay, feeing a Pannier 
 ty'd at the end of a Cord, hanging over one of the Baftions, ventur'd not- 
 withftanding all the Bullets that flew about his Ears, to fee what was in it. But 
 he was ftrangely furpriz'd, to find nothing but a Ianguifhing Infant, which 
 the Mother had hung there, that fhe might not fee it perifli for hunger. The 
 Soldier mov'd to compaffion, took the Infant and gave it fuch as he had to 
 eat ; at which the Dutch General was fo incens'd, faying that the Soldier fhould 
 have let the Infant perifh, that he caird a Council of War, where he would 
 have had the Soldier run the Gauntlet, which was very cruel ; but the Coun- 
 cil, moderating the fentence, condemn'd him only to the Strappado. 
 
 The fame day ten Soldiers out of every Company were commanded to go 
 to one of the Houfes of the King of Cochin j but they found no body there, 
 
 having 
 
Book I. 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 having plunder'd it the year before. At which time the Hollanders flew four 
 Kings of the Country, and fix hundred Blacks ; nor did their efcape only one 
 ancient Queen, who was taken alive by a common Soldier, call'd Van Ret,, 
 whom the Commander of the Army made a Captain immediately, for his re- 
 . ward. They left one Company in that Houfe ; but the Queen ftay'd there but 
 fix days, for they gave her into the cuftody of Savarm } one of the moft 
 potent of the petty Kings of that Coaft, to whom the Hollanders had promis'd 
 to give the City of Cranganor, if they took Cochim, provided he would be faith- 
 ful to them. 
 
 Six weeks pafs'd ere any thing confiderable was done; but then the Hol- 
 landers, ftorming the Town by night, were repuls'd, and loft abundance of men, 
 flain and taken Prifoners , through the Governour of Cranganors fault, who 
 commanded them, and was drunk when the affault was made. Two months after, 
 the General of the Hollanders refolv'd to make another affault in the fame 
 place j and becaufe he would not want men, he lent for thofe that lay upon 
 the fide of Belle-epine. But by misfortune the Frigat ftruck upon the Sands, 
 and fplitting, abundance of the Soldiers were drown'd. They that could fwim, 
 got to land near Cochin, not finding any other place convenient , and were 
 all taken Prifoners by the Portugals i being not above ten in all, Soldiers and 
 Mariners. The General however would not give over the affault, but caufing 
 the Sea-men to land, he arm'd fome with half-Pikes, others with Swords, to 
 others he gave hand-Granadoes, arid about ten a Clock in the morning he began 
 the affault, with four Companies, confifting each of a hundred and fifty men. 
 The Hollanders loft abundance of men in this laft affault^_and fo did the Pqrtu- 
 guefes, for they defended themfelves ftoutly, being feconded by two hundred 
 Soldiers, who were all Dutch-men, but had fided with the Portuguefes, becaufe 
 their Countrymen had bated them fix months and a half pay for thelofs of Touan. 
 Without the affiftance of thefe Soldiers, the City had never held out two months, 
 there being among them one of the beft Dutch Engineers of his time, who 
 had left his Countrymen by reafon of their ill ufage of him. 
 
 At length the Hollanders having enter'd the Town toward evening, on Cali- 
 vete fide ; and being Mafters of the chief Bulwark, the Portugals came to a 
 Capitulation, and the City was furrender'd. The Portugals by their Articles 
 march'd out of Cochin with their Arms and Baggage; but when they came out 
 of the City where the Hollanders were drawn up|in Battalia^ they were all forc'd 
 to quit their Arms, and to lay them at the Generals feet ; except the Officers, 
 who kept their Swords. The General had promis'd the Soldiers the Pillage 
 of the Town, but not being able to keep his word, for feveral plaufible 
 reafons which he told, he promis'd them fix months pay, which in a few days 
 after was reduc'd to eight Roupies a' man. Samarin alfo demanded of him the 
 City of Cranganor, according to his promife ; which the General made good j 
 but he caus'd all the Fortifications to be flighted firft, and left Samarin nothing 
 but the bare Walls. For being of a very mean Extraction, he was naturally as 
 cruel and barbarous in his difpofition. One time the Soldiers being fo put to 
 it for four days together, that they could get no food for money, two of them 
 had fomewhere taken a Cow and kill'd her j for which the General, when he 
 came to know of it, caus'd one of them to be hang'd immediately, and had or- 
 der'd the other to have run the Gauntlet, had not King Perca interceded for 
 him. 
 
 King Perca was a petty King of that Country, with whom the General was 
 then in Treaty j and the Treaty being at length concluded, the General mufter'd 
 all his Land and Sea-men, to the number of about fix thoufand men. A few 
 days after, he fent fome Companies to befiege the City of Cananor, which fur- 
 render'd without any refiftance. When they return'd, the General caus'd a Crown 
 to be made for the new King of Cochin, the other being expell'd his Country. 
 And upon the day which he had appointed for this moft folemn Coronation,the Ge- 
 neral fat upon a kind of a Throne, at the foot whereof, a Malavare or Pirat, 
 being led thither between three Captains of each fide, fell' upon his knees to 
 receive the Crown from the Generals hand, and to do homage for a petty; 
 Kingdom, that is to fay, the little City of Cochin and its Territories; which 
 
 * N ' were 
 
Travels in India. Pai:. II. 
 
 were very fmall. The King and the King-maker were both alike. For no doubt 
 it could not but be a pleafant fight, to fee a Hollander, that had been only 
 the Cook of a Ship, crowning a miferable Pirat with thofe hands that had oft'ner 
 handled a Ladle than a Sword. 
 
 In the mean time the Ships that carried the Inhabitants of Cochin to Goa, 
 return'd laden with the fpoils of thofe diftrefled people ; for contrary to the 
 Articles of Capitulation, the Hollanders were no looner out at Sea, but they 
 took from thofe poor Creatures whatever they had, rifling both men and women, 
 without any regard to fex or modefty. 
 
 The General being return'd into Batavia, they fent a Governour to Cochin 
 who to make the place the ftronger, demolifh'd a great part of the City. But 
 this Governour us'd the greateft rigor imaginable, even towards the Soldiers ; 
 he ftmt them up in the City as if they had been in a Prifon ; nor could they 
 drink either Wine, or Swy, or Strong-water, by reafon of the great Imports 
 which he laid upon them. ( Sury is a drink which flows from the Palm-trees. ) 
 So that when the Portugmfes kept Cochin, men might live better for five or fix 
 Sous, than under the Hollander for ten. This Governour was fo fevere, that 
 he would banifh a man for the fmalleft fault in the world, to the Ifland of Cey- 
 lan, to a place where they made Brick, fometimes for five or fix years, fome- 
 times as along as the party liv'd. For it is oftentimes obferv'd, that when any 
 one is banifh'd thither, though the fentence be only for a term of years, yet 
 the Exile never obtains his freedom afterwards. 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 '7;10fT* (V 7 ' J" * ^ ' '.3fl V*' f**Hr 't$w* It ^" * ' J 'O '3l3:lT Til *J& "* ■'- ^ 
 
 The Tajfage by Sea from Ormus to Mafiipatan. 
 
 I departed from Gomron to MafJpatan the eleventh of May, 1652, and went 
 aboard a great Veffel of the ,King of Golconda's } which is bound every year 
 from Perfia,hden with fine Calicuts, Chites, or Calicuts painted with a Pencil,which 
 makes them much more beautiful and dearer than thofe which are printed. 
 The Holland Company are wont to allow to thofe Veffels which belong to any 
 of the Kings or Princes of India, a Pilot, and two or three Gunners ; neither 
 the Indians nor Perfans being expert in Navigation. In the Veffel where I was 
 aboard, there were but fix Dutch Mariners at mofr, but above a hundred Na- 
 tives. We failed out of the Perfian Golf with a pleafing and favourable Gale 5 
 but we had not fail'd very far before we found the Sea very rough, and the 
 Winds at South- Weft, fo violent, though full in our Stern, that we were not 
 not able to carry out more than one fmall Sail. The next day, and for fome 
 days after, the Wind grew more violent, and the Sea more boift'rous ; fo that 
 being in the fixteenth Degree, which is the elevation of Goa, the Rain, the 
 Thunder, and Lightning, render'd the Tempeft the more terrible ; infomuch 
 that we could not carry out any other than our top-fail, and that half furPd. 
 We pafs'd by the Maldives Iflands, but were not, able to difcern them, befides 
 that the Ship had taken in very much water in the Hold. For the Ship had 
 lain five months in the Road of Gomron, where if the Mariners are not very 
 careful to wafh the Planks that lye out of the water, they will be apt to gape, 
 which caufes the Ship to leak when fhe is loaden. For which reafon the Hol~ 
 landers wafh the outfide of their Ships morning and evening. We had in our 
 Veffel five and fifty Horfes, which the King of Perfia had fent as a Prefent to 
 the King of Golconda ; and about a hundred Merchants, Perfians and -Armenians 
 together, who were Traders to India. One whole day and night together 
 there rofe a crofs Wind, fo violent, that the Water rowl'd in from Stern to 
 Stern, and the mifchief was, that our Pumps were nought. By good fortune 
 there was a Merchant that had two Bails of Rujfia Leather, befides four or 
 five Sadlers that knew how to fow the Skins, who were very ferviceable as well- 
 to 
 
Book I 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 to the whole Ship as to themfelves. For they made great Buckets of the Skins, 
 four Skins to a Bucket, which being let down from the Mafts with Pullies., 
 through certain great Holes which were cut in the Deck., drew up a vaft quan- 
 tity of Water. The fame day the violence of the Tempeft continuing, there 
 fell three Thunderbolts into the Ship. The firft fell upon the Boltfprit, and 
 fplit it quite in two ; and running along upon the Deck kill'd three men. The 
 fecond fell two hours after, and kill'd two men, (hooting along as the other 
 did from Head to Stern. The third follow'd prefently after, the Mafter, the 
 Matters Mate,and my felf ftanding together near the main Mask. At what time the 
 Cook coming to ask the Mafter whether he mould take up the Vi&nals., the Thun- 
 derbolt took him in the lower part of his Belly, made a little hole,and took off 
 all the Hair as clean as they drefs a Pig with hot water and Rofin, without doing 
 him any more harm. Only when they came to anoint the little hole with Oil 
 of Coco's, he roar'd out through the fharpnefs of the pain which he endur'd. 
 
 The twenty-fourth of fane in the morning, we difcover'd Land | and ma- 
 king toward it, we found our felves before Ponte de Galle, the firft Town in the 
 Ifland of Cejlan, which the Hollanders had taken from the Portugals. From 
 thence to the Road of Maflipatan we had very good weather ; where we ar- 
 riv'd the fecond of falj, an hour or two after Sun-=fet. There I went afhore, 
 and was moft civilly treated by the Dutch Prefident, and Merchants^ as alfb by 
 the EngUJh. 
 
 The eighteenth and nineteenth of fane, the Sieur Dn Jardin and I, bought us 
 two Valleys, and fix Oxen to carry our felves, our Servants, and our Luggage. 
 Our defign was to have gone direclly to Golconda, there to have fold the King 
 a parcel of long Pearls, the leaft whereof weigh'd thirty-four Carats, and the 
 biggeft thirty-five, with fome other Jewels,the moft part whereof were Emraulds. 
 But the Hollanders afTuring us, that our journey would be to no purpofe, in 
 regard the King would buy nothing that was rare, or of a high price, till Mir- 
 gimola, his General and prime Minifter of State, had view'd the Commodity i 
 oifderftanding therefore, that he was then at the Siege of Gandicot, in the Pro- 
 vince of Carnatica, we refolv'd to go thither to him. 
 
 CHAP. XVIIL 
 
 The Road from Maflipatan to Gandicot, a City and Garri[on in the 
 'Province of Carnatica. And of the dealings which the Author 
 had with Mirgimola , who commanded the King of GolcondaV 
 Army. With a dtfcourfe at large concerning Elephants, 
 
 WE fet forth from Maflipatan the twentieth of fane 3 about five of the 
 Clock in the Evening. 
 The next day, being the one and twentieth, we travell'd three Leagues, and 
 lay at a Village call'd Nilmol. 
 
 The two and twentieth^ we travePd fix Leagues, to Wonhir, another Village § 
 crofling the River upon a floating Bridge, before we came thither. 
 
 The three and twentieth, after we had travePd fix hours, we came to Pate- 
 met, a pitiful Village, where we were conftrain'd to lye three days by rea- 
 fon of the Rains. 
 
 The twenty-feventh, we came to a great Town, call'd Bez.ottart j not being 
 able to travel above a League and a half, becaufe the Road was all o.verflow'd. 
 There we were fore'd to ftay four days, for the Rains had fo fwelPd the Ri- 
 ver which we were to crofs, that the Ferryman could not govern his Boat a- 
 gainft the violence of the Stream. There we alfo left the Horfes which the 
 King of Perfla lent tothe King pf Golconda', which by that time were redue'd to 
 fifty. 
 
 * N a' While" 
 
Travels in India. 
 
 Part. II. 
 
 While we ftay'd at Bez.mart ) we went to fee feveral Pagods, of which the 
 Country is full ; there being more than in any other part of India ; for unlefs 
 it be the Governours of Towns; and fome of their Domefticks, all the reft of 
 the Inhabitants are Idolaters. The Pagod belonging to the Town of Bet.ouart i 
 is a very large one, but not clos'd with Walls j it confifts of fifty-two Pillars 
 twenty foot high, that uphold a flat roof of Free-ftone ; they are adorn'd with 
 feveral embofs'd Figures of ugly Devils, and feveral forts of Creatures. Some 
 of thofe Devils are made with four Horns, others with many Legs and many 
 Tails , others lilling out their Tongues, and others in feveral other ridiculous 
 poftures. The fame Figures are cut in the Stone of the Roof, and between 
 the Pillars ftand the Statues of their Gods upon Pedeftals. The Pagod is built 
 in the midft of a Court, of a greater length than breadth, encompafs'd with 
 Walls, which are adorn'd within and without, with the fame Figures as the 
 Pagod j and a Gallery upheld by fixty-fix Pillars, runs round the Wall, after 
 the manner of a Cloyfter. You enter into this Court through a wide Portal, 
 upon which are two Niches, one above another, the firft upheld by twelve, 
 the other by eight Pillars. At the bottom of the Pillars of the Pagod, are 
 certain eld Indian Characters, of which the Priefts of thofe Idolaters themfelves 
 can hardly tell the meaning. 
 
 We went to fee another Pagod, built upon a Hill, to which there is an af- 
 cent of a hundred and ninety-three fteps, every one a foot high. The Pagod 
 is four-fquare, with a Cupola at the top ; and has the fame embofs'd Figures, 
 as the Pagod of Bezouart, round about the Walls. In the middle, there is an 
 Idol fitting crofs-Ieg'd, after the manner of the Country ; and in that fitting 
 pofture it is about four foot high ; upon the Head it has a Triple Crown, from 
 which four Horns extend themfelves ; and it has the Face of a man, turn'd to- 
 ward the Eaft. The Pilgrims that come out of devotion to thefe Pagods, when 
 they enter, clafp their hands together, and rear them up to their foreheads j 
 then they advance toward the Idol, toiling their two hands fo clafpt together, 
 and crying out feveral times Ram, Ram, that is to fay, God, Gcd. When they 
 come near, they ring a little Bell that hangs upon the Idol it felf; after they 
 have befmear'd the Face, and feveral parts of the Body, with feveral forts of 
 Painting. Some there are that bring along with them Viols of Oil, with which 
 they anoint the Idol j and befides, they make an Offering to it of Sugar, Oil, 
 and other things proper to be eaten ; the richer fort alfo adding pieces of Sil- 
 ver. There are fixty Priefts that belong to this Idol, and maintain themfelves, 
 their Wives, and Children upon the Offerings brought to the Idol. But to the 
 end the Pilgrims may believe the Idol takes them, the Priefts let them lye 
 two days, and the third day in the evening they take them away. When any 
 Pilgrim goes to a Pagod, to be cur'd of any diftemper, he brings the Figure 
 of the Member affected made either in Gold, Silver, or Copper, according to 
 his quality, which he offers to his god ; and then falls a finging, as all the reft 
 do, after they have offer'd. Before the Gate of the Pagod, there is a flat 
 Roof, upheld by fixteen Pillars, and right againft it, is another upheld by eight j 
 which ferves for the Priefts Kitchin. On the South-fide there is a large Flat- 
 form cut in the Mountain, where there is a plealing (hade of many fair Trees, 
 and feveral Wells digg'd in the ground. Pilgrims come far and near to this 
 Pagod j and if they be poor, the Priefts relieve them with what they receive 
 from the rich, that come there out of devotion. The great Fealt of this Pa- 
 god is in the month of OEtaber, at which time there is a great concourfe of 
 people from all parts. While we were there, there was a Woman that had 
 not ftirr'd out of the Pagod for three days together j and her prayer to the 
 Idol was, fince fhe had loft her Husband, to know what fhe fhould do to bring 
 up her Children. Thereupon asking one of the Priefts, wherefore fhe had no 
 anfwer, or whether fhe was to have any anfwer or no j he told me, that fh e 
 muft wait the pleafure of their God, and that then he would give her an an- 
 fwer to what fhe expected. Upon this I miftrufted fome cheat, and to difco- 
 ver it, I refolv'd to go into the Pagod when all the Priefts were abfent at Dinner, 
 there being only one that flood at the Gate, whom I fent to fetch me fome 
 water at a Fountain two or three Musket-fhot from the place. During that 
 
 time 
 
Book I Travels in India. 
 
 time I went in, and the Woman hearing me, redoubl'd her cries j for there being 
 no light in the Pagod, but what comes in at the door, it is very dark. I felt my 
 way to the Idol, and by the glimmering light obferv'd an hole behind the Idol. 
 I could not do this fo quickly, but that the Prieft return'd before I had done j He 
 curft me for prophaning his Temple, as he call'd it. But we became fuddenly very 
 good friends by the mediation of two Roupies which I put into his hands, where- 
 upon he prefently prefented me with fome of his Beth'. 
 
 The one and thirtieth, we departed from Bez^ouart, and paft the River which 
 runs to the Mine of Gam or Coulour. It was then neer half a league broad, by 
 reafon of the great rains which had fall'n continually for eight or nine days to- 
 gether. After we had travell'd three leagues on the other fide of the River, wc 
 came to a great Pagod built upon a large Platform, with an afcent of iy or io 
 fteps. Within it ftood the Figure of a Cow, all of very black-Marble : and a 
 number of deformed Idols four or five-foot-high j fome having many heads, 
 others many hands and legs : and the molt ugly are molt ador'd, and receive molt 
 Offerings. 
 
 A quarter of a league from this Pagod is a large Town ; but we travell'd three 
 leagues farther, and came to lie at another Town, call'd Kab-Kali 3 neer to which 
 there is a fmall Pagod, wherein there ftand five or fix Idols of Marble very well- 
 made. 
 
 The firft of Attguft we came to a great City call'd Condevir, with a double- 
 Moat, pav'd at the bottom with Free-ltone. The way to this Town is cl'cs'd on- 
 each fide with ftrong Walls, and at fuch and fuch diftances are built certain 
 round Towers of little or no defence. This City toward the Eaft ftretches.out to 
 a Mountain about a league in compals, and furrounded with Walls. At the di- 
 ftance of every 150 paces, there is as it were an half-Moon, and within the Walls 
 are three FortrelTes. 
 
 The fecond, we travelPd fix leagues, and lay at a Village call'd Copenour. 
 
 The third day, after we had travell'd eight leagues, we came to Adanquige, a 
 very fair Town, where there is a very large Pagod, with abundance of Chambers 
 which were built for the Priefts ; but are now gone to ruine. There are alfo in 
 the Pagod certain Idols, but very much maim'd, which the people however very 
 fuperftitioufly adore. 
 
 The fourth, we travell'd eight leagues, and came to lie at the Town of Nof- 
 drepar. Half a league on this fide there is a great River; but at that time it had 
 but little water jn it ; by reafon of the drowth. 
 
 The fifj&j-afrer eight leagues journey we lay at Condecmr. 
 
 The fycth, we travell'd feven hours, and lay at a Village call'd Dakjje. 
 
 The (eventh, after three leagues journey we came to Nelour, where there are 
 many Pa^ods, and having crofs'd a great River, a quarter of a league farther, we 
 travell'd fix leagues, and came to Gandaron. 
 
 The eighth, after a journey of eight hours we lay at Serepele, a fmall Vil- 
 lage. 
 
 The ninth, we travell'd nine leagues, and lay at a good Town call'd Tonter. 
 The tenth, we travell'd eleven hours, and lay at Senepgond i another good 
 Town. 
 
 The eleventh, we went no farther than Palicat, which is but four leagues from 
 Seuepgond ; and of thole four leagues we travell'd above one in the Sea, up to the 
 Saddles of our Horfes in water. There is another way, but it is the farther about 
 by two or three leagues. Valicat is a Fort that belongs to the Hollanders that 
 live upon the Coaft of Coromandel 5 and where they have their chief Fa&ory, 
 where lives alfo the chief Intendent over all the reft that are in the Territories of 
 the King of Gobonda. There are ufually within the Fort 200 Souldiers, or there- 
 abouts, befides feveral Merchants that live there upon the account of Trade; and 
 fe-veral others, who having ferv'd the Company according to their agreement., 
 retire to that place. There alfo dwell fome of the Natives of the Countrey ; fo 
 that Valicat is now as it were a little Town. Between the Town and the Caftle 
 there is a large diftance of ground, left the Fort mould be annoid by fliot from 
 the Town. The Baftions are well-ftor'd with good Guns : And the Sea comes 
 up to the very Wall of it i but there is no Haven, only a Road. We itaid in the 
 
 Town 
 
94- 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 PartH. 
 
 Town till the next day in the evening, where we obferv'd, that when the Inhabi- 
 tants fetch their water to drink, they ftay till the Sea is quite out, and then dig- 
 ging holes in the Sand as neer the Sea as they can, they meet with frefh- 
 water. 
 
 The twekh, we departed from Calicat, and the next morning about ten of the 
 clock we came to Madrefpatan, otherwife call'd Fort St. George, which belongs to 
 the Englijh, having traveled not above feven or eight leagues that day. We lay 
 at the Covent of Capuchins, at what time Father Ephraim, and Father Zenon 
 were both there. 
 
 The fifteenth, we went to St. Thomafs Town, to fee the ^«/?/«-Friars, and the 
 Jefuits Church, in the firft whereof is an Iron-lance, wherewith they fay that St. 
 Thomas was martyr'd. 
 
 The two and twentieth, in the morning we departed from Madrcfp'atan, and 
 after a journey of five leagues we arriv'd at a large Town call'd Serravaron. 
 
 The three and twentieth, after 7 leagues travel, we came to Oudecot, the whole 
 days journey being over a flat fandy Countrey. On each fide there are only Copies 
 of Bamboos that grow very high. Some of thefe Copfes are fo thick, that it is im- 
 poffible for a man to get into them j but they are pefter'd with prodigious num- 
 bers of Apes : Thofe that breed in the Copfes upon one fide of the way, are ene- 
 mies to them that are bred on the other fide j fo that they dare not crofs from 
 one fide to the other, but they are in danger of being immediately ftrangl'd. 
 Here we had good fport in fetting the Apes together by the ears 5 which is done 
 after this manner. This part of the Countrey, at every leagues end, is clos'd up 
 with Gates and Barricado's, where there is a good Guard kept, and where all Paf- 
 fengers are examin d whither they go, and whence they come ; fo that men may 
 lafely travel there with their Money in their hands. In feveral parts of this Road 
 there is Rice to be fold 5 and they that would fee the fport, caufe five or fix; 
 Baskets of Rice r j be fet in the Road, fome forty or fifty paces one from the 
 other, and dole by every Basket they lay five or fix Battoons about two-foot-Iohg, 
 and two inches about ; then they retire and hide themfelves : prefently they (hall 
 fee the Apes on both fides of the way defcend from the tops of the BambopCs % 
 and advance toward the Baskets which are full of Rice : They are about half ah 
 hour (hewing their teeth one at the other before they come near the Baskets $ 
 lometimes they advance, then retreat again, being loath, to encounter. At length 
 the female-Baboons, who are more couragious than the males, efpecially thofe 
 that have young ones, which they carry in their arms, as Women do their Chili 
 dren, venture to approach the Basket, and as they are about to put in their heads 
 to eat, the males on the other fide advance to hinder them. Immediately the 
 other party comes forward, and thus the feud being kindled on both fides, they 
 take up the Battoons that lie by the Baskets, and thrafh one another in good 
 earneft. The weakeft are conftrain'd to flie into the* wood with their pates bro-? 
 ken, and their limbs maim'd ; while the Mafters of the Field glut themfelves with 
 Rice. Though it may be, when their bellies are full, they will fuffer fome of the 
 female-party to come and partake with them. 
 
 The four and twentieth, we travell'd nine leagues, all the way being like the 
 Road the day before, as far as Naraveron. 
 
 The five and twentieth, after a journey of eight hours, through a Countrey. of 
 the fame nature, meeting at every two or three leagues end with Gates and 
 Guards, we came in the evening to Gaz.el. ib . ; 
 
 The fix and twentieth, we travell'd nine leagues, and came to lie at Courva' t 
 where there was nothing to be found neither for Man nor Beaflv fo that our Cat- 
 te! were fore'd to be contented with a little Grafs, which was cut on purpofe for 
 them. Courva is only a celebrated Pagod ; by which, at our arrival, we faw fe- 
 veral bands of Souldiers pafs by, fome with Half-pikes, fome with Muskets, and 
 fome with Clubs, who were going to joyn with one of the principal Comman- 
 ders of MirgimoUs Army, who was encamp'd upon a rifingrground not far from 
 Courva. ; the place being pleafant and cool, by reafon of the great number of; 
 Trees and Fountains that grace it. When we underftood the Captain was fo rieer, 
 we went to wait upon him, and found him fitting in his Tent with many Lords of 
 the Countrey, all Idolaters, After we had prefented him with a pair of Pocket- 
 
 Piftols 
 
Book I. 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 -95 
 
 Piftols inlaid with Silver, he demanded of us what had brought us into that 
 Countrey ; but when we told him that we came to attend Alirgimola, Generali^ 
 Jimo of the King of Golconda's Army, about bufinefs, he Avas infinitely kind to us : 
 However, undemanding that he took us for Hollanders, we told him we were not 
 Hollander s y but French-men. Thereupon , not underftanding what Nation we 
 were, he fell into a long difcourfe with us about the Government of our Coun- 
 trey, and the Grandeur of our King. Six or feven days before, they had taken five 
 or fix Elephants, three whereof had efcap'd, having kill'd ten or twelve of the 
 Natives who affifted in the Chace ; in purfuit whereof the General was prepa- 
 ring ; and becaufe we could not flay to fee the fport, we were contented to inform, 
 our felves of the manner of hunting that vaft Animal j which is thus. They cut 
 out feveral Alleys or Walks in the Wood, which they dig full of great deep holes, 
 and cover with Hurdles ftrow'd over with a little earth. Then the Hunters hoop- 
 ing and hollowing, and beating up Drums, with Pikes that have Wild-fire ti'd to 
 the end of them, force the Elephant into thofe Walks, where he tumbles into the 
 holes, not being able to rife again. Then they fetch Ropes and Chains : and fome 
 they bring under their bellies, others they wind about their legs and trunk, and 
 when they think they have fufficiently hamper'd the Beaft, they have certain En- 
 gines ready, wherewithal to draw him up. Neverthelefs, of five, three efcapU, 
 notwithstanding the cords and chains about their bodies and their legs. The 
 people told us one thing which feem'd very wonderful ; which was, that thefe 
 Elephants having been once deceiv'd,and having efcap'd the fnare,are very miftruft- 
 ful ever after ; and when they get into the Wood again, they break off a great 
 bough from one of the Trees with their trunk, with which they examine every 
 ftep they go, before they fet down their feet, to try whether there be any hole or 
 no in their way. So that the Hunters that told us the Story, feem'd to be out of 
 hopes of ever taking thofe three Elephants which had efcap'd. Had we been 
 aflur'd that we might have been eye-wkneffes of this miraculous precaution of 
 the Elephant, we would have ftaid three or four days, what-ever urgent bufinefs 
 we had had. The Captain himfelf was a kind of a Brigadeer, that commanded 
 three or four-thoufand men , who were quarter'd half a league round the 
 Countrey. 
 
 The (even and twentieth, after two hours travel, we came to a great Village, 
 where we faw the two Elephants which had been fo lately taken. Every one of 
 the two wild Elephants was plac'd between two tame ones. Round about the 
 wild Elephants ftood fix men, with every one an Half-pike in their hands, and a 
 lighted-Torch faften'd at the end of the Pike, who talk'd to the Beafts, giving 
 them meat, and crying out in their language, Take it, eat it. The food which they 
 gave them was a little bottle of Hey, fome pieces of brown-Sucre, and Rice boil'd 
 in water, with fome few corns of Pepper. If the wild Elephants refus'd to do as 
 they were bidden, the men made figns to the tame Elephants to beat them, which 
 they did, banging the refractory Elephant upon the head and forehead with their 
 trunks ; and if he offer'd to make any refiftance, the other Elephant thwackt him 
 on the other fide ; fo that the poor Elephant, not knowing what to do, was con- 
 ftrain'd to learn obedience. 
 
 Being thus fall'n into the Story of Elephants, I will add fome other obferva- 
 tions 3 which I have made upon the nature of thofe Animals. Though the Ele- 
 phant never meddles with the female, after he is once taken, yet he is fometimes 
 feiz'd with a kind of luftful rage. One day that Sha-jehan was an Hunting upon 
 one of his Elephants, with one of his Sons that fate by him to fan him, the Ele- . 
 phant became fo furious by reafon of his luft, that the Governor who was by no 
 means able to mafter him, declar'd to the King, that to allay the fury of the Ele- 
 phant, who would elfe doubtlefs bruife him to pieces among the Trees, there was 
 no way, but for one of the three to forfeit his life : and that he would willingly 
 facrifice his for the fafety of the King and the Prince his Son. Only he defir'd. 
 his Majefty to take care of three final! Children which he muft leave behind him. 
 Having fo faid, he threw himfelf under the Elephant's-feet, who had no fooner 
 taken him in his trunk and fqueez'd him to pieces with his feet, but he grew as 
 quiet and peaceable as before. The King, as an acknowledgment for fo famous a \ 
 deliverance, gave to the poor two-hundefd-thoufand Roupics, and highly advanc'd 
 
'Travels ill India. 
 
 Part II 
 
 every one of the Sons of him that had fo generoufly laid down his life for the 
 fafety of his Sovereign. 
 
 I obferved alfo, that though the Elephant's skin be very hard while he is alive s 
 yet when he is dead, the skin is juft like melted-glue. 
 
 Elephants are brought from feveral parts of India ; as from the Ifland of Cey- 
 Un, where they are very fmall j but rhe moft couragious of all : from the Ifle of 
 Sumatra ; from the Kingdom of Cochin 5 from the Kingdom of Siam ; and from 
 the Frontiers of the Kingdom of Boutam ncer the Grcat-Tartarie. They are 
 brought alfo from the Coaft of Melinda, Eaftward of Africa : where they are 
 in very great numbers, according to the report of a Portuguese- Captain, made at 
 Goa, who came from thence to make fome complaint againft the Governor of Jl^o- 
 z*ambicjue. He told me that he had feen all along that Coalt feveral Parks that 
 wereempal'd with nothing but Elephants-teeth, the leaft of which Parks is above 
 a league about : He added farther, that the Blacks of the Countrey hunt their 
 Elephants, and eat the flefh. But they are obligM to give the turtles of every one 
 they Kill to the Lord of the place. When they intend to take their Elephants in 
 the Ifland of Ceylan, they make a long lane, clos'd in on both fides, fo that the Ele- 
 phant can neither run to the right nor to the left : this lane is broad at the rirft, but 
 grows narrower and narrower, till there is no more room left at the farther-end 
 than for the female-Elephant to lie down, which muft be one that is covetous of 
 the male at the fame time., Though fhe be tame, yet (lie is bound with good 
 Ropes and Cords, and by her cries will call the male-Elephant, who prefently runs 
 through the lane towards her. Now when the Elephant comes where the Jane 
 grows narrow, they that lie hid for that purpofe, immediately barricado up the 
 lane behind, and when he comes neer the female, there is another barricado fet up 
 that flops him from going any farther. When he is thus between the Barricado's* 
 they fo intangle his legs and trunk with ropes and cords, that he is foon taken, ha- 
 ving no way to help himfelf. The fame way. they ufe for the moft part in the 
 Kingdoms of Siam, and Pegu, only that the Natives there mount the female- 
 Elephant, and go to find out the male in the Forrefts. And when they have met 
 with his haunt, they tye the female to the moft convenient place they can find, 
 and then they fix their fhares for the Elephant, who in a fhort time haftens 
 toward the female, hot for generation where her cries call him. 
 
 This is obfervable of the female-Elephant/that when fhe begins to be hot, {he 
 gathers together a great heap of herbs and weeds, and makes her ielf a kind of 
 bed fome four or five-foot-high from the ground, where contrary to the cuftom 
 of all other creatures, (he lies upon her back, in expectation of the male, whom 
 fhe calls to her by a peculiar cry. 
 
 This is alfo particular to the Elephants in the Ifle of Ceylan, that pnly the firft 
 Elephant which, the female produces, has any turtles. And it is alfo obfervabJe, 
 that the Ivory which comes from Achen when it is wrought, has this peculiar 
 quality with it, that it never grows yellow, like that which comes out of the 
 Continent, and from the Eaft- Indies, which makes it more efteem'd, and dearer 
 than any other. 
 
 When the Merchants bring Elephants to any place to (ell 5 'tigf a pleafant fight 
 to fee them go along. For in regard there are generally old and young together, 
 when the old ones are gone by, the children will be running after the little ones 
 to play with them, and give them fomething or other to eat. While the young 
 Elephants, which are very wanton, are bufily taking what is offer'd them, the 
 children leap upon their backs : but then the young Elephants, that lately ftopt 
 for the lucre of victuals, perceiving their Dams a great way before them, double 
 their pace, and playing with their trunks, throw the children off their backs to 
 the ground, yet without doing them any harm. 
 
 Notvvithftanding all the enquiry I have made, I could never find exactly how 
 long an Elephant Will live. Nor can all the governors and keepers of thole 
 creatures tell you more, then that fuch an Elephant has been the pofieffion of their 
 Father, their Grandfather, and great Grandfather. And by that computation, I 
 found that they had liv'd fome of them fix-fcore, or an hunder'd and thirty 
 years. \ 
 
 The 
 
Book! Travels in India. 
 
 « -T-i - — . -■ 
 
 The greateft part of thofe that have made Relations of India, boldly affirm 
 that the Great Mogul keeps three or four-thoufand Elephants. But being my 
 felf at fehanabady where the King at prefent refides, he that was chief Mafter of 
 the Elephants, alTur'd me that the King had not above five-hunder'd Elephants, 
 which were call'd Elephants of the Houfe, made ufe of only to carry the Women, 
 their Tents, and Luggage ; but that for the Wars, he only kept fourfcore, or four- 
 (core and ten at molt. The nobleft of the latter fort is always referv'd for the 
 King's Eldeft Son, the allowance for his food and other neceflaries being yoo 
 Roupies a month, which comes to 7yo Livres. There are fome that are not al- 
 lowed above jo, others 40, others 30, and fome but 20 Roupies. But thofe Ele- 
 phants that are allow'd an hunder'd, two-hunder'd, three-hunder'd or four- 
 hunder'd Roupies a-month, have belonging to them certain Horfe-men that live 
 upon the fame pay, and two or three young fellows to fan them during the heat 
 of the weather. All thefe Elephants are not always kept In the City : the 
 greateft part being led out every morning into the fields, or among the thickets, 
 where they feed upon the branches of Trees, Sucre-canes, and Millet, to the great 
 detriment of the poor Countrey man. But not a little to the profit of their 
 Keepers j for the lefs they eat at home, the more they gain into their own 
 purfes. 
 
 The tvventy-feventh of -Augtift, we travell'd fix leagues, and lay at a great Town 
 call'd Ragia-peta. 
 
 The twenty-eighth, after eight leagues journey we came to Ondeconr. 
 
 The twenty-ninth, after nine hours travel we arriv'd at Otttemeda, where there 
 is one of the greateft Pagods in all India. It is all built of large Free-ftone, and 
 it has three Towers, where there ftand feveral deforrri'd figures of Embofs'd- 
 work. It is encompaft with many little Chambers for the Priefts Lodgings : five- 
 hunder'd paces beyond there is a wide Lake, upon the banks whereof are buik 
 feveral Pagods eight or ten-foot-fquare ; and in every one an Idol reprefenting the 
 fhape of fome Devil, wfth a Bramere, who takes care that no ftranger that is not 
 of their fuperftition, (hall come to wafh, or take any water out of the Lake. If 
 any ftranger defires any water, they bring it in earthen-pots : and if by chance 
 their pot touches the ftranger's Veflel, they break it immediately. They told me 
 alfo, that if any ftranger, not of their fuperftition, mould happen by accident to 
 wafh in that Lake, they mult be forc'd to drain the Lake of all the water that 
 was in at that time. As for their Alms, they are very charitable j for there pafles 
 by no perfon in neceffity, or that begs of them, but they give them to eat and 
 drink of fuch as they have. There are feveral Women that fit upon the Road, 
 whereof fome of them always keep fire for Travellers to light their Tobacco by. 
 Nay, they will give a Pipe to fome that have none at all. Others boil Rice with 
 JQuicheri, which is a grain fomewhat like our Hemp-feed. Others boil Beans 
 with their Rice, becaufe the water wherein they are borl'd never puts thofe that 
 are over-hot into a Pleurify. There are Women that have vow'd to perform thefe 
 acts of Charity to ftrangers for feven or eight years, fome for more, fome for Ids,' 
 according to their convenience. And to every Traveller they give lome of their 
 Beans, and Rice-water, and an handful of Rice to eat. There are other Women 
 upon the high-way, and in the fields, looking behind their Horfes, their Oxen, 
 and their Cows, who have made vows never to eat but what they find indigefted 
 in the dung of thofe Beafts. Now in regard there is neither Barly nor Oats in that 
 Countrey, they give their Cattel certain great crooked Peafe, which they bruile 
 before between two Mill<-ftones : and then lay them in fteep for half an hour j 
 for they are a very folid fubftance, and hard to be digefted. They p,ive their Cat- 
 tel thefe Peafe every evening ; and in the morning they feed them with two- 
 pound of dark-brown-Sugar, like Wax, kneaded together with as much Meal, and 
 one-pound of Butter, whereof the Oftlers or Grooms make, little round Balls 
 which they thruft down their throats j for other wife they would never eat them. 
 Afterwards they wafh their mouths, that are all over clamm'd, efpecially their 
 teeth, which makes them have fuch an averfion againft that fort of food. All the 
 day long they pull up the graft and weeds by the roots, and give their Cattel, be- 
 ing very careful of letting them eat any of the earth. ; 
 
 The thirty'th, we travell'd eight leagues, and lay at a place call'd Gottlttpali. 
 
 * Q The 
 
travels in India. Part. II. 
 
 The one 2nd thirty'th, after we had travell'd nine hours , we ftopt at Gogeron. 
 The firft of September we travell'd but fix leagues, and came to lie at Gandicot. 
 It was but eight days before, that the Nahab had taken that City, after a Siege of 
 three months. Nor had it been taken without the affiftance of certain French- 
 men, who had forfaken the fervice of the £>#/c/!?-Company, by reafon of ill-ufage. 
 They hadalfo feveral EngUJh and D#/c//-Cannoneers, with two or three Italians^ 
 which mainly forwarded the furrender of that place. 
 
 Gandicot is one of the ftrongeft Cities in the Kingdom of Carnatica. It is fitua- 
 ted upon the point of an high Mountain 5 there being but one afcent to it, not 
 above twenty or five and twenty-foot-broad at molt ; in fome places not above 
 feven or eight-foot-wide. On the right-hand of the way, which is cut out of 
 the Mountain, there is a moft hideous precipice ; at the bottom whereof ruas a 
 vaft River. Upon the top of the Mountain there is a fmall plain, about a quarter 
 of a league broad, and about half a league long. This is all fow'd with Rice and 
 Millet, and water'd with many little Springs. The top of the plain on the South- 
 fide, where the City is built, is encompaft with precipices, two Rivers running at 
 the bottom, which form the point. So that there is but one Gate to enter into 
 the City from the plain-fide ; and that too fortifi'd with three good Walls of 
 Free-ftone. with Moats pav'd at the bottom with Free-Hone '5 fo that the befieged 
 had but only one quarter of the City to defend, containing about five-hunder'd 
 paces. They had but two Iron-Guns, the one carrying twelve-pound- Ball, the 
 other eight. The one was planted upon the Gate, the other upon a point of a 
 kind of a Baftion. So that until the Nahab had found the way to mount his Can- 
 non upon a very high place neer the City, he loft a great number of men by fe- 
 veral falDes which the Befieged made. The Raja that was within, was efteeduT**' 
 one of the braveft and moft experiene'd Captains that ever were amongft the Ido- 
 laters : whereupon, the Nahab finding that the place was not to be taken, unlefs he 
 could get up his Cannon to the top of that fteep afcent, fent for all the French- 
 men that were in the King's fervice, promifing to every one four months extraor- 
 dinary pay, if they could find a way to mount his Cannon upon the top of n>ch a 
 place ; wherein they had the good-hap to be very fuccesful. For they mounted 
 four pieces of Cannon, and were fo profperous, as to hit the great Gun that was 
 planted upon the Gate, and render it unferviceable. At length, when they had 
 beaten down good part of the Wall of the City, the Befieged came to capitulate, 
 and march'd out of the Town upon very good Articles. The day we arriv'd, all 
 the Army was encamp'd at the foot of the Mountain, in a plain, through which 
 there ran a very fair River ; where the Nahab mufter'd his Cavalry, and found 
 them in a very good condition. An jF«g///fc-Cannoneer and an Italian feeing Mon- 
 fieur Jardin and my ftlf pafs by, guefs'd us to be Fran gut's 5 and becaufe it was 
 late, accofted us very civilly, and oblig'd us to ftay with them all night. By them 
 we underftood that there was in the City a French-Engxneev, whofe name was 
 Claudius Maille of Bourges, and that he was empl'oy'd by the Nahab to caft fome 
 pieces of Cannon which the Nahab intended to leave in the City. 
 
 The next day we went into the City, and found out Maille's Lodging, having 
 been acquainted with him at Batavia ; who informing the Nahab of our arrival, 
 he prefently lent us Frovifion for our felves and our beafts. 
 
 The third day we went to wait upon the Nahab, who had pitch'd his Tents up- 
 on that part of the plain neer the place where the way is cut out of the Rock. 
 We inform'd him of the caufe of our coming, telling him that we had fome com- 
 modities that were rare, and worth the King's buying ; but that we were unwil- 
 ling to fhew them to the King till he had feen them j believing it our duty to 
 render him that refpedt. The Nahab was very well-pleas'd with our Comple- 
 ment j and after he had eaus'd us to be prefented with Betle, we took our leaves 
 of him, and return'd to our Lodgings , whither he fent to us two Bottles of 
 Wine,one of Sack, and the other of Schiras, which is a rare thing in thatCountrey. 
 
 The fourth day we waited upon him again,and carried along with us fome Pearles 
 of an extraordinary weight, beauty and bignefs % the leaft whereof weighed twenty 
 four Caratts. After he had vewd them and fhew'd them to fome of the Lords that 
 were about hin^he ask'd the price, which when we had let him,he return'd us our 
 Jewels and told us he would confider of it, 
 
 The 
 
Book I. Travels in India. 
 
 99 
 
 The tenth day he fent for us in the morning, and after he had caus'd us to 
 fit down by him, he fent for five fmall Bags full of Diamonds, every Bag con- 
 raining a good handful. They were loofe Stones, of a very black Water, and 
 very fmall ; none of them exceeding a Carat, or a Carat and a half ; but other- 
 wife very clean. There were fome few that might weigh two Carats. After 
 the Nahab had fhew'n us all, he ask'd us whether they would fell in our Coun- 
 try. We made anfwer, that they might have been for fale in our Country, 
 provided they had not been of a black Water j for that in Europe we never 
 efteem'd any Diamonds, but fuch as were clean and white, having but a fmall 
 efteem for any others. It feems, that when he firft undertook the Conqueft of 
 this Kingdom for the King of Golconda, they inform'd him that there were Dia- 
 mond Mines in it. Whereupon he fent twelve thoufand men to dig there ; who 
 in a whole years time could find no more than thofe five fmall Bags full. Where- 
 upon the Nahab perceiving that they could find none but brown Stones, of a 
 Water enclining much more to black than white, thought it but lofs of time,' 
 and fo fent all the people back to their Husbandry. 
 
 The eleventh, the French Canoneers came all to the Nahabs Tent, com- 
 plaining that he had not paid them the four months pay which he had pro- 
 mis'd them ; threatning him,that if he did not difcharge it, they would leave him j 
 to which the Nahab promis'd to give them fatisfaction the next day. 
 
 The twelfth,the Canoneers not failing to give him another vifit,the Nahab paid 
 them three months, and promis'd to pay them the fourth before the month 
 were out ; but fo foon as they had receiv'd their Money, they fell a feafting 
 one another, fo that the Dancing Wenches carried away the greateft part of 
 their Coin. 
 
 The thirteenth, the Nahab went to fee the Guns which Maille had under- 
 taken to caft. For which purpofe he had fent for Brafs from all parts, and 
 got together a great number of Idols which the Soldiers had pillag'd out of 
 the Pagods as they march'd along. Now you muft know, that in Gandi- 
 cot there was one Pagod, faid to be the faireft in all India, wherein there were 
 feveral Idols, fome of Gold, and others of Silver ; among the reft there were" 
 fix of Brafs, three fitting upon their Heels, and three upon their Feet, ten foot 
 high. Thefe Idols were made ufe of among the reft. But when Maille alio 
 had provided all things ready, he could not make thofe fix Idols run, that were 
 taken out of the great Pagod of Gandicot,. though he melted all the reft. He 
 tr.y'd feveral ways, but it was impofTible for him to do it, whatever expence 
 the Nahab was at 5 nay though the Nahab threaten'd to hang the Priefts for 
 having inchanted thofe Idols. And thus Ma 'dle could never make any more than 
 only one fingle piece, and that fplit upon trial ; fo that he was forc'd to leave/ 
 the work unfinifh'd, and foon after left the Nahabs fervice. 
 
 The fourteenth, we went to take our leaves of the Nahab, and to know 
 what he had further to fay to us, concerning the Commodities we had then 
 fhew'n him. But then he told us, he was bufie at prefcnt about the examina- 
 tion of certain Offenders which were brought before him. For it is the cuftom 
 of that Country, never to put a man in Prifon 5 but as foon as the Offender is taken, 
 he is examin'd, and fentence is pronounced upon him, according to his crime, 
 which is immediately executed $ or if the party taken, be found innocent, he is as 
 foon acquitted. And let the controverfie be of what nature it will, it is pre- 
 fently decided. 
 
 The fifteenth in the morning, we went to wait upon him again, and were im- 
 mediately admitted into his Tent, where he late with his two Secretaries by 
 him. The Nahab was fitting according to the cuftom of the Country, bare-foot, 
 like one of our Taylors, with a great number of Papers flicking between his Toes, 
 and others between the Fingers of his left hand, which Papers he drew fomtimes 
 from between hisToes,fomtimes from between hisFingers,and order'd whatanfwers 
 fhould be given toevery one. After his Secretaries had wrote the anfwers,he caus'd 
 them to read them,and then took the Letters and feal'd them himfelf j giving fome 
 to Foot Meffengers, others to Horfemen. For you muft know, that all thofe Let- 
 ters which are fent by Foot-Pofts all over India y go with more fpeed than 
 thofe which are carried by Horfemen. The reafbn is, becaufe at the end of 
 
 *Oi every 
 
100 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Part II. 
 
 every two Leagues there are little Huts, where there are men always ready, 
 who are engag'd to run away immediately ; fo that when one of thefe men that 
 carries the Letters, comes to one of thefe Huts, he throws the Letters into the 
 Hut, and then he that is appointed, runs with them to the next Stage. They 
 look upon it as an ill Omen, to give the Letters into the Meffengers hands ; 
 but they muft be thrown at his feet, and he muft gather them up. It is to 
 be obferv'd alfo, that the Highways in moft parts of India, are like Walks of 
 Trees ; and that where there are no Trees, at every five hundred paces di- 
 itance there are fet up little Heaps of Stones, which the Inhabitants of the 
 next Villages are bound to white-warn from time to time, to the end thole 
 Letter-Carriers may not mifs their ways in dark and Rainy nights. While we ftay'd 
 with the Nahab, certain Officers came to tell him, that thev had brought cer- 
 tain Offenders to the door of his Tent. He was above half an hour before he 
 return'd them any anfwer, writing on, and giving inftrudions to his Secretaries 5 
 but by and by, all of a fudden he commanded the Offenders to be brought in, 
 and after he had examin'd them, and made them confefs the crime of which 
 they ftood accus'd, he. was above an hour before he faid a word, ftill writing 
 on, and employing his Secretaries. In the mean while feveral of the Officers 
 of the Army came to tender their refpefts to him in a very fubmiffive manner, 
 all whom he anfwer'd only with a nod. There was one of the Offenders which 
 were brought before him^ had broken into a Houfe, and had kill'd the Mother 
 and three Children. He was condemned upon the fpot to have his Hands and 
 Feet cut off, and to be caft out into the high way , there to end his days 
 in mifery. Another had rob'd upon the Highway ; for which the Nabab or- 
 der'd his Belly to be ript up, and himfelf to be caft upon the Dunghill. I know 
 not what crimes the other two had committed, but their Heads were both 
 cut off. When we perceiv'd him at a little leifure, we ask'd him whether he 
 had any other Commands to lay upon us, and whether he thought our Com- 
 modities fitting to be fhew'n to the King. He anfwer'd, that we might go to 
 Golcovdajind that he would write to his Son in our behalf,and that his Letter would 
 be there fboner than we. And in order to our journey, he order'd us fixteen 
 Horfemen to convoy us, and to provide us neceffaries upon the Road, till we 
 came to a River thirteen Leagues from Gandicot, which no perfons are to pafs 3 
 unlefs they have the Nahabs Pafsport, to keep the Soldiers from running from 
 their Colours. 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 The Road from Gandicot to Gokonda. 
 
 TH E fixteenth in the morning, we fet out of Gandicot , accompanied with 
 the greateft part of the Canoneers, who brought us the firft days journey up- 
 on our way $ and that day having travel'd feven Leagues, we came to lye at 
 
 Cotepali. 
 
 The feventeenth, the Canoneers took their leaves of us j and we kept on our 
 journey with our Horfemen j and having travel'd fix Leagues , we lay at a 
 Village call'd Coteen, on the other fide of the River, which is very broad. So 
 foon as we had crofs'd it, the Horfemen took their leaves of us ; and though 
 we made them a prefent of Roupies, to buy them Tobacco and Betle vet we 
 could not perfwade them to take it. Their Ferry-Boats wherewith they crofs 
 the River, are like broad bottom'd Wicker Flaskets, cover'd without with Oxe's 
 Hides ; at the bottom whereof they lay certain Faggots, over which they fpread 
 a piece of old Tapeftry, to keep the Wares and Merchandife from the wet. As 
 for their Coaches and Waggons, they faften them between two Boats, by the 
 Wheels and the Pole ; the Horfes fwimming all the while, one man whip- 
 ping them on behind, while another in the Boat holds them up by the Head- 
 
 Stafl. 
 
Book I. 
 
 Travels tn India. 
 
 ioi 
 
 Stall. As for the Oxen that carry the Luggage, as foon as ever they come to 
 the River fide, and that they have unladed them, they only drive them into 
 the River, and they will fwim over of themfelves. There are four men 
 that ftand upright at the four Corners of the Boat, and row it along with 
 broad pieces of Wood, made like Shovels. If they do not all ftrike their 
 ftroakes together, but that any of the four mifTes, the Boat will turn round 
 two or three times ; and the ftream carries it a great way lower than where 
 they intended to land. 
 
 The eighteenth, after five hours travel we arriv'd at Morimal. 
 
 The nineteenth, we travel'd nine Leagues, and lay at Santefela. 
 
 The twentieth, we travel'd nine Leagues more, and lay at Goremeda. 
 
 The one and twentieth, after fix hours travel, we fpent the night at Kaman, 
 a Frontier Town in the Kingdom of Golconda, till the Conqueft of Carnatica by 
 JMirgimola. 
 
 The two and twentieth, we travel'd feven Leagues, and came to lye at Eme- 
 lipata. When we were about half the way, we met above four thoufand per- 
 fons, men and women ; and above twenty Pallets, in every one whereof was 
 an Idol. They were adorn'd with Coverings of Sattin, purfled with Gold, and 
 Velvets with Gold and Silver Fringe. Some of thefe Pallets were born by 
 four men ; others by eight, and fome by twelve, according as the Idols were 
 in bignefs and weight. On each fide of the Palkktc, walk'd a man, with a large 
 Fan in his hand, five Foot in compafs, made of Oftriches and Peacocks Feathers; 
 of various colours. The Handle of the Fan was five or fix foot long, laid all 
 over with Gold and Silver, about the thicknefs of a French Crown. Every one 
 was officious to carry one of thofe Fans , to keep the Flies from the Idols 
 Face. There was another Fan which was carried clofe by the Idol, fomewhat 
 larger than the former, without a handle, and was born juft like a Tanget. It 
 was adorn'd with Feathers of feveral colours, and little Bells of Gold and Sil- 
 ver, round about the edges. He that carried ir, went always near the Idol upon 
 the fame fide, to fhade the Idol ; for to have Unit the Curtains would have 
 been too hot. Ever and anon, he that carried that fort of Fan, brandifti'd it 
 in the air, to make the Bells ring ; which they prelum'd to be a kind of Paftime 
 to the Idol. AH thefe people with their Idols came from Brampour, and the 
 adjacent parts, and were going to vifit their great Ram, that is to fay, their 
 chief God, who Hands in a Pagod in the Territories of the King of Carnatnca, 
 They had been about thirty days upon the Road, and were to travel fourteen, 
 or fifteen more, before they came to this Pagod. One of my Servants, who 
 was a Native of Brampour, and of the fame Superftition, beg'd me to give him 
 leave to bear his Gods company, telling me withall, that he had made a Vow 
 long fince to go this Pilgrimage. I was conftrain'd to let him go. For had I 
 not given him leave, I knew he would have taken it, by reafon he had much 
 acquaintance and kindred among the Rabble. About two months after, he re- 
 turn'd again to us to Surat, and becaufe he had faithfully ferv'd Monfieur fardin 
 and my felf, we made no fcruple to take him again. Asking him fome queftions 
 about his Pilgrimage, he related to me this following pafiage r Six days after; 
 he left me, all the Pilgrims had made an account to go and lye at fuch a Vil- 
 lage, to which before they came they were to crofs a River, that has but little 
 Water in Summer, fo that it is eafily fordable. But when it rains in India, the 
 Water falls with fuch a force^ that it feems to be a perpendicular deluge ; and 
 in lefs than an hour or two, a fmall River fhall fwell three or four foot high, 
 The Rains having overtaken thofe Pilgrims, the River was fwell'd in that man- 
 ner, that it was impoffible to pafs it that day. Now becaufe it is not necefiary 
 for Travellers in India to carry provifions, efpecially for the Idolaters, who never 
 eat any thing that ever had life ; in regard that in the leaft Village you may 
 meet with abundance of Rice, Meal, Butter , Milk Meats, Lentils, and other 
 Pulfe, befides Sugar, and Sweet-Meats, dry and moift. The people were very 
 much furpriz'd, having no Victuals, when they came and faw the River fwell'd, 
 In fhort, they had nothing to give their Children to eat ; which caus'd great 
 lamentations among them. In this extremity the chiefeft of their Priefts fat himfelf 
 down in the niidft of them, and covering himfelf with a flieet,began to cry out that 
 
102 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Part. II 
 
 they who would have any Victuals mould come to him ; when they came, he 
 ask'd every one what they would have, whether Rice, or Meal, and for how- 
 many perfons ; and then lifting up the corner of the meet, with a great Ladle 
 he diftributed to every one that which they asked for j fo that the whole multi- 
 tude of four thoufand Souls was fully fatisfi'd. My Servant did not only tell 
 me this itory, but going feveral times afterwards to Brampour, where I was 
 known to the chief men in the City, I enquir'd of feveral, who (wore to me 
 by their Ram, Ram, that it was truth. Though I am not bound to believe it. 
 
 The twenty-third, we arriv'd at Doupar, after we had travel'd eight leagues, 
 and crofs'd feveral Torrents. 
 
 The twenty-fourth, we travePd four leagues, and came to Tripante ; where 
 there is a great Pagod upon a Hill, to which there is a circular afcent of Free- 
 ftone every way j the leaft Stone being ten foot long, and three broad: and 
 there are feveral Figures of Damons in the Pagod. Among the reit, there is 
 the Statue of Venus, ftanding upright, with feveral lafcivious Figures about 
 her $ all which Figures are of one piece of Marble ; but the Sculpture is very 
 ordinary. 
 
 The twenty-fifth, we travePd eight leagues, and came to Mamli. 
 The twenty-fixth, we travel'd eight leagues more, and came to lye at Ma- 
 chelt. 
 
 The twenty-feventh, we travel'd not above three leagues, being to crofs a 
 wide River in Boats like Panniers j which ufually takes up half the day ; for 
 when you come to the River fide, there is neither Pannier nor any thing elfe 
 to crofs it. There was only one man, with whom we bargain'd for our paflage j 
 who to try whether our Money were good or no, made a great fire and threw 
 it into the flame, as he does to all others that pafs that way. If among the 
 Roupies which he receives, he meets with" any one that turns a little black, you 
 mult give him another, which he prefently heats red hot ; when he finds his 
 Money to be good, he calls to his Companions to fetch the Manequin or Flasket- 
 Boat, which lay hid before in fome other part of the River. For thefe fore 
 of people are fo cunning, that if they defcry any Paffengers afar off, they will 
 row their Mamequin to the other fide, becaufe they will not be conftrain'd to 
 carry any perfon over without Money. But the Money being paid, the man 
 that receives it calls his Companions together, who take the Boat upon their 
 Shoulders, and when they have launch'd it into the River, they fetch their 
 Paflengers and goods from the other fide. 
 
 The twenty-eighth, having travel'd five leagues., they came to a place call'd 
 Ddbir-Pwta. 
 
 The twenty-ninth., after twelve hours travel, we came to lye at Holcora. 
 The thirtieth, we travel'd eight leagues, and came to fpend our night at Pt- 
 ridera. 
 
 The firft of OSlober, after we had travel'd ten leagues, we came to lye at 
 Atsnaya. This is a Houfe of Pleafure, which the prefent King's Mother caus'd 
 to be built. There are many Chambers in a great Piaz.z.a belonging to it, for 
 the convenience of Travellers. 
 
 You muft take notice, that in all the Countries where we travel'd, as well in 
 the Kingdom of Carnatica , as the Kingdoms of Golconda and Vifapour , there 
 are no Phyficians, but fuch as attend Kings and Princes. As for the common 
 people, after the Rains are fall'n, and that it is time to gather Herbs, you mall 
 fe.e every morning the good women of the Towns going into the Fields, to 
 gather fuch Simples which they know to be proper for fuch Difeafcs as reign 
 in the Family. 'Tis very true, that in great Cities there may be one or two 
 men that have fome common Receipts, who go every morning and fit in fbme 
 known places, to give their Remedies to fuch as enquire for them, whether 
 they be Potions or Plaifters. Firft they feel their Pulfes, and then giving them 
 Ibme remedy, for which they do not demand the value of fix pence 5 they 
 alfo at the fame time mutter certain words between their teeth. 
 
 The fecond of OBober, we had but four leagues to travel before we came 
 to Golconda. We went immediately to the Lodging of a young Dutch Chi- 
 rurgion, belonging to the King, whom the Sieur Cketettt, Envoy from Bntavia, 
 
 bad 
 
Book I. Travels in I 
 
 had left at Golconda upon the King's earneft entreaty. The King was always 
 very much troubl'd with the head-ach : for which reafon the Phyfitians had or- 
 der'd that he fhould be let blood in four places under the tongue 5 but there was 
 no perfon that would undertake to do it : for the Natives of the Countrey un- 
 derftand nothing of Chirurgery. Now before that Peter do Lan y for that was 
 the D^c^-Chirurgion's name, was entertain'd in the King's fervice, he was ask'd 
 whether he could let blood ? To which he anfwer'd, that there was nothing fo 
 eafy in Chirurgery. Some few days after the King lent for him, and gave him. 
 to underftand that he was refolv'd to be let blood the next day in four parts un- 
 der the tongue, as the Phyfitians had order'd, but he mould take a care of not 
 drawing away above eight ounces. De Lan returning the next day to Court, 
 was lead into a Chamber by three Eunuchs, and four Old-women, who carri'd 
 him to a Bath, and after they had undreft him, and wafh'd him, efpecially his 
 hands $ they anointed hjm with Aromatick-drugs , and inftead of his own 
 European-Clothes, they brought him a Robe according to the fafhion of the 
 Countrey. After that, they brought him before the King , where he found four 
 little Porringers of Gold, which the Phyfitians, who were prefent, had weigh'd,, 
 In ftiort, he let the King blood under the tongue in four parrs, and perform'd his 
 bufinefs fo well that when the blood came to be weigh'd, it weigh'd but bare eight 
 ounces. The King was fo fatisfi'd with the Operation, that he gave the Chirur- 
 gion three- hunder'd Pagods, which comes to almoft feven-hunder'd Crowns. 
 The Young-Queen and the Queen-Mother undemanding what he had done, were 
 refolv'd to be let-blood too. But I believe it was rather out of a curiofity to 
 fee the Chirurgion, than out of any neceffity which they had to be Jet-blood. 
 For he was a handfom young-man ; and perhaps they had never feen a ftranger 
 neer at hand, for at a diftance, it is no improbable thing, in regard the Women are 
 (hut up in fuch places where they may fee, but not be feen. Upon this, de Lan 
 was carri'd into a Chamber where the fame Old-women that had waited on him 
 * before he let the King blood, ftript up his arm., and wafh'd it, but more efpecially 
 his hands j which when they were dry , they rubb'd again with fweet-Oils 
 as before. That being done, a Curtain was drawn, and the Queen ftretching out 
 her arm through a hole, was let blood ; as was the Queen-Mother afterwards 
 in the fame manner. The Queen gave him fifty Pagods^ and the Queen-Mother 
 thirty, with fome pieces of Cloath of Gold. 
 
 Two days after we went to wait upon the NahaPs Son, but were told we 
 could not fpeak with him that day $ the next day receiving the fame anfwer. we 
 were advertiz'd upon enquiry, that we might wait long enough in that manners 
 that he was a young Lord that never ftirr'd from the King ; or that if he did 
 leave the Court, it was only to keep his Miffes company in his own Haram. 
 The young Chirurgion feeing us fo delaid, offer'd to fpeak to the King's firft Phy- 
 fitian, who was alio of the King's Council, and who had teftifi'd a great affeftion 
 toward the Batavian-Envoy, and for de Lan himfelf j for which reafon, he thought 
 he might embrace an opportunity to do him a kindnefs. In Ihort, de Lan had no 
 fooner fpoke to him, but he fent for us, and having, after much civility (hewn us, 
 inform'd himfelf of the caufe of our coming, he defir'd us to Ihew him our 
 Pearls, which we did the next day, After he had view'd them, he made us feal 
 them up again in our own bags : for all that is prefented to the King muft be 
 feal'd with the Merchants-Seal 5 and when the King has had a light of the Com- 
 modity, it is feal'd up with his own Seal, to prevent any fraud. Thereupon we 
 left the Pearls, fo feal'd up, in his hands, who promis'd to fhew them to the 
 King, and to give us a good account of the truft We had put into his 
 hands. - , v 
 
 The next day about nine of the Clock before noon we went to the River to 
 fee how they wafh the King's and the Great Noble-men's Elephants. The Re- 
 pliant goes up to the belly in the water, and lying down upon, one fide, with his 
 trunk he throws the water feveral times upon that fide which lies out of the 
 water ; and when he has foak'd himfelf fufficiently, the Mafter comes with a 
 kind of a Pumice-ftone, and rubbing the Elephant's-skin, cleanfes it from all the 
 filth that clings to it. Here fome believe, that when this creature is once laid 
 down, it cannot rife of its felf j which is contrary to what' I have feen. For 
 
 when" 
 
104 Travels in India. Part II 
 
 when the Mafter has well-cleans'd the one fide, he commands the Elephant 
 turn the other, which the beaft immediately does ; and when both fides are 
 well-waftYd, he comes out of the River, and ftays a-while upright uj.cn the 
 bank- fide to dry himfelf. Then comes the Mafter with a pot full of (bme red or 
 yellow colour, aqd ftreaks the beaft in the forehead, about the eyes, upon the 
 breaft, and all behind, rubbing him afterwards with Oil of Coco's to ftrengtbcu 
 the nerves $ and fome when all is done, hefaftens a gilt-Pkte upon their Yore- 
 heads. 
 
 The fifteenth, the chief Phyfitian fent for us, and return'd us our bags again, 
 feal'd with the King's Signet, wherewith his Majefty had feal'd them, after he had 
 look'd upon them. He demanded the price ; which we told him: Whereupon, 
 an Eunuch that ftood by him, and wrote down every thing, wondring at the high- 
 price of the Pearls, told us that we took the King of Golconda's Courtiers for 
 perfons that had neither knowledg nor judgment ; and that he faw every day 
 things of greater value brought to the King. I briskly retorted upon the 
 Eunuch, that he was better skill'd in the price of a young Slaye, than the value 
 of a Jewel j and fo ikying, we put up our Pearls, and return'd to our Lodg- 
 ing. The next day we fet out from Gokonda for Surat } in which Road there is 
 nothing confiderable but what I have already defcrib'd, only this is to be re- 
 member'd, that we were not gone above five days journey from Gokonda, but 
 the King, who had not heard in two days after we were gone, what I had re- 
 torted upon the Eunuch, fent four or five Horfe-men after us with Orders, if 
 they overtook us, to bring us back : but in regard we were got one days 
 journey into the Territories of the Mogul before one of the Horfe-men over- 
 took us, (for the reft ftaid upon the Frontiers of the two Kingdoms; ) I, that 
 knew the humour of the Gountrey very well, made anfvver for my felf and 
 Companion, that at that time our bufmefs would not permit us; and that there- 
 fore we begg'd in moft humble manner his Majefty's pardon ; and after- 
 wards I made my Companion allow my reafons. 
 
 Being arriv'd at Snrat, Monfieur dc Jardin dy'd of an overflowing of choler : 
 And I made a full account to have gone to Agra to Sba-jeban who then reign'd. 
 But at the fame inftant the Nabab, Sha-Efl-Kan, the King's Brother-in-Law, 
 and Governor of the Province of Guz^erat, fent one of the principal Officers of 
 his Houfe to me from Amadabat, to tell me he underftood I had fome extraor- 
 dinary Jewels to fell ; for which reafon he would be glad to fee me, and that 
 he would pay me as much for them as the King mould do. I receiv'd this 
 Meflage while Sleur de ^ or din lay fick, and the ninth day after his death I got 
 to Amadabat sZvA fpake with the Nahab. Now in regard he was a man that 
 underftood Jewels perfectly well, we prefently came to an agreement : fo that 
 we had no difpute together, but about the quality of the Coin to be paid. 
 He allovv'd me two forts to choofe, Roupies of Gold, or Roupies of Silver : 
 but the Prince feeming to intimate to me that he mould not be well-pleas'd to 
 let fudi a Sum in Silver be feen to go out of his Houfe, he wifh'd I would 
 rather accept my payment in Roupies of G old, that made not fuch a great 
 heap, i contented to his defire j and he fhew'd me very fair Gold, and many 
 Roupies, that had not feen the Sun in a long time. But in regard the price 
 currant of aRoupy ofGold,is not above fourteen Roupies of Silver,and for that he 
 would have had me taken my Roupies at fourteen and a half, or at Jeaft for 
 fourteen and a quarter, it had like to have fpoil'd our bargain j for I gave him 
 to underftand, that in fo large a fum, it would not quit coft to lofe a fourth 
 part in every Roupy of Gold. At length to pleafe him, I was forc'd ro take 
 the Gold at fourteen Roupies of Silver and an eighth part. Thus a Prince 
 otherwife magnificent and generous, yet in matter of buying and felling, 
 would needs approve himfelf to be a good Husband. While I Ttay'd at Ama- 
 dabat, he Jertt me every day to my Lodging four Silver Plates of Pilaw, and 
 other excellent Dyet j and one day that the King had fent him as many Apples 
 as ten or twelve men could carry, he fent me as many as for their rarity at 
 Amadabat, were worth three or four hundred Roupies. Befides all this, he 
 gave me a compleat Habit of Honour, with a Sword and a Cangiar , worth a 
 thoufand Roupies j and refojving alfo ro give me a Horfe, he ask'd me what 
 
 kind 
 
Book I. Travels in India. ioc 
 
 — : — 
 
 kind of one I would have. I told him, fmce he was pleas'd to give me my 
 choice, that I rather defir'd a young lively Horfe, rather than an old one. 
 Thereupon he fent me one that was fa given to bounding and prancing, that 
 he threw a young Hollander out of the Saddle ; but upon my defire to have 
 him chang'd, he fent me another, which I fold afterwards for four hundred 
 Roupies. 
 
 From Amadabat I return'd to Surat ; from Surat I travel'd again to Gol- 
 conda, and thence to the Mine to buy Diamonds. From whence returning back 
 for Surat, I refolv'd for Perfia. 
 
 CHAP. XX. 
 
 f • - ■ i 
 
 My return from Surat to Ormus. 
 
 BEing upon my return to Surat from the Diamond Mine, I underftood that 
 the War was proclaim'd between the EngUJh and the Hollanders, and the 
 latter would fend no more Ships into Perfia. The EngUJh alfo gave out the 
 fame refblutions ; for indeed they had fent four Ships into Perfia, which they 
 expected back every hour. While I was thus in fear of ftaying long in a 
 place where I had no bufinefs, there arriv'd at Surat five great Dutch Ships 
 from Batavia ; three of which being rather Men of War, than Merchant-Men, 
 were order'd to be unladen with all fpeed , with an intention to look out 
 for the four EngUJh VelTels that were expected out of Perfia. The other two 
 were appointed to follow two or three days after, being in that time to 
 take in provifions for the whole Fleet. 
 
 In one of thofe two VefTels I embark'd, and fetting fayl the eighth of fa- 
 Kuary, we came before Diu the twelfth, where we overtook the other three 
 Ships. There it was debated at a Council of War, what courfe to fteer to 
 meet the EngUJh j and it was refolv'd, that we mould fteer away for Scindi, 
 where we arriv'd the twentieth of the fame month, and ftay'd there till the 
 twenty-eighth, and then fetting fail with a fair Wind, we landed at Gomrom 
 the feventh of March. 
 
 The End of the Firfl Book. 
 
 * P TRA- 
 
106 Travels in India. Part II* 
 
 TRAVELS 
 INDI A. 
 
 The Second Book. 
 
 Containing an Hiftorical and Political Defcription 
 of the Empire of the Great Mogul. 
 
 CHAP. I. 
 
 A Relation of the laft Wars of Indolftan ; which gives an infighi 
 into the prefent Eflate of the Empire and Court oj the Moguls. 
 
 I Have written this Hiftory in fuch manner, as I knew things to be trans- 
 acted, during my ftay in the Country ; leaving it to the Reader to make his 
 own reflections as he pleafes 5 it being fuflicient for me to make a faith- 
 ful defcription of the Potent Empire of the Moguls 3 according to the 
 Obfervations I have taken upon the place. 
 
 This great and vaft Empire., which contains the greateft part of Indolfian> 
 and which extends from the Mountains on this fide the River Indus, -to the 
 Mountains on the other fide of Ganges ; borders Eaftward upon the Kingdoms 
 of Aracan, Tipra, and Afia. Toward the Weft upon Perjia, and the Vsbeg Tartars* 
 Southward upon the Kingdoms of Golconda and Vifapour. Northward it runs 
 upas far as the Mountain Cat tcfi fm. North-Eaftward the Kingdom of Bantam, 
 whence comes our Musk, parts it. North- Weltward it borders upon the Coun- 
 try of Chegathay, or the Vsbcgs. 
 
 They are call'd Moguls, that is, white of complexion j for the laft Conque- 
 rors of the Indies were Whites j the Natives being all Brown-,, or Olive-colour. 
 
 Aureng-^eb, the prefent Emperor , is the eleventh in a direct line, of the 
 Defendants from the great Temur-Leng, commonly call'd Tamerlane ; the ex- 
 tent and renown of whofe Conquefts, from China to Poland, has exceeded all 
 the actions of the greateft Captains of the former Ages. His Succeflbrs com- 
 f>leated the Conqueft-of all India between the two Rivers, with the deftruction 
 of feveral Kings. So that Aureng-z^eb has at this time under his Dominion, 
 the Territories of Gouaerat, Decan-Dehly, Mult an, Labor, Kajhemire, Bengala, 
 and many other Territories 3 not to mention feveral Raja's, or petty Kings, who 
 pay him Tribute, and are his VafTals. The SuccefTion of the Kings of India is 
 as follows : 
 
 1. Termur-Leng, that is to fay, the Lame, becaufe one of his Legs was fhorter 
 than the other, lyes buried at Samarchand, in the Country of Chegathay, or the 
 Vsbeg Tartars, being the place of his Nativity. 
 
 2. Aliram- 
 
Book II 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 2. Miram~Cha, the Son of Temurleng. 
 
 3. Sultan Mahomet, the Son of Miram-Cha. 
 
 4. Sultan Aboufaid-Mirz.a, the Son of Mahomet, 
 y. Hameth-Sheck^y the Son of Saltan Aboufaid. 
 
 6. Saltan Babur, that is, the Valiant Prince, the firft Mogul thatwas of greatcft 
 power in India. He dy'd in the year 15:32. 
 
 7. Homajon, that is , the Happy, the Son of Sultan Babur, dy'd in the year 
 
 8. Abdul Feta Gelal-Eddin Mahomet, commonly call'd Akabar^ that is, the 
 Great, reign'd fifty four years, and dy'd in the year i6oj. 
 
 9. Sultan Selim, otherwife call'd fehan-guir Patjha, that is, the Victorious 
 Emperor of the World, fucceeded Akabar his Father, and dy'd 1627. He had 
 four Sons, the eldeft nam'd Sultan Kofrou 3 the lecond Sultan Kourom t the third 
 Sultan Perviz,, the fourth Cha-Daniel. 
 
 10. Sultan Kourom, the fecond of the four, fucceeded feban-guir his Father; 
 and was acknowledg'd by all the Nobility, at the Gaftle of Agra, by 'the Name 
 of Cha-Bedin Mahomed, but he would be call'd Cha-jehan, that is, King of the 
 World. »..\ . 
 
 11. Aureng-z.eb, that is, the Ornament of the Throne, is the prefent Mo- 
 narch. 
 
 The following Figure mews you what forts of pieces the Kings caufc to 
 be thrown among the people when they come to the Throne. They reprc- 
 tent the Arms or Signets of the Kings which I have nam'd. The biggeft, in 
 the middle, was Cha-jeharfs, the tenth King. Thefe pieces are moft of them 
 Silver ; there being very few of Gold. And as for Aureng-z.eb t he never coin'd 
 any particular pieces to throw away at his Coronation, 
 
10.8 Travels in India. Part. II. 
 
 The Great Mogul is without all queftion the richeft and moft potent Mo- 
 narch of Jlfia i the Territories which he pofTefles, being his own Hereditary 
 Pofleflion ; and being abfolute Mafter of all the Territories whence he receives his 
 Revenues. For in the Territories of this Prince, the great Lords are but the 
 Royal Receivers, who give an account of the King's Revenues to the Governours 
 of the Provinces, and they to the chief Treafurers and Controllers of the Ex- 
 chequer. 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Of the Sicknefs aitd fuppos'd c Death of Cha-jehan, King of India, and 
 the Rebellion of the Trinces his Sons. 
 
 THis great King had reign'd above forty years, not fo much as a King over 
 his Subjects, but rather as a Father over his Family and Children. Infomuch, 
 that during his Reign there was fuch a ftriftnefs in the Civil Government, and 
 particularly for the fecurity of the High-ways, that there was never any oc- 
 eafion to put any man to death for Robbery. In his declining years he fanci'd 
 a young Lady of an extraordinary Beauty, that was not above thirteen years 
 of age ; and becaufe the ftrength of nature would not permit him to fatisfie 
 his paffion, he took certain provocatives, which were fb hot, that he fell there- 
 upon into a diftemper that had almoft kill'd him. This oblig'd him to fhut 
 himfelf up in his Haram } together with his Women, for two or three months j 
 during which time he appear'd very rarely to the people, and that at a great 
 diftance too, which made them believe he was dead. For they are oblig'd by 
 Cuftom to fhew themfelves to the people three times in a week, or in fifteen 
 days at moft. 
 
 Cha-jehan had fix Children, four Sons and two Daughters. The Name of 
 the eldeft was Dara-Cha, the fecond was call'd Sultan Sujah, the third uiureng- 
 z.eb, and the fourth Morad-Bahche. The eldeft of his two Daughters was call'd 
 Begum-Saheb, and the name of the fecond was Ranchenara Begum. 
 
 Cha-jehan lov'd all his four Sons alike, and had made them Governours or 
 Vice-Roys of four of his principal Provinces or Kingdoms. Dara-Cha, who 
 was the eldeft, ftay'd with his Father in Dehly, and had the Government of 
 the Kingdom of Saudi, into which he put a Deputy. Sultan Sujah had for his 
 Ihare the Government of Bengala. Aureng-7~eb was Vice-Roy of the Kingdom 
 of Decan-, and Morad-Bahche of the Kingdom of Guzerat. But though Cha- 
 jehan endeavour'd to give equal content to his four Sons, their Ambition was 
 not fatisfVd with this divifion, but ruin'd all the good defigns which fo kind a 
 Father had lay'd to preferve peace among his Children. 
 
 Cha-jehan being thus fick, and retir'd into the Womens quarter, without 
 /hewing himfelf for many days; the report ran that he was dead, and that 
 Dara-Cha conceaFd his death, to gain time to provide for himfelf, and to Se- 
 cure the Empire. True it is, that the King believing he mould dye, commanded 
 Dara-Cha to call together all the Omrahs or Lords, and to feat himfelf upon 
 the Throne, which belong'd to him, as the eldeft of his Brothers. He alfb tefti- 
 fi'd the defire he had to fee him quietly fetkd in the peaceable pofTeftion of 
 the Empire. And this intention of his was look'd upon as the more juft, in re- 
 gard the other three Brothers had been for fome time obferv'd to have lefs 
 refpedt for their Father, than Dara-Cha. Dara-Cha, who honour'd and refpeft- 
 ed the King with a real tendernefs, made anfwer to the King , that he defir'd 
 of Heaven nothing more than the prefervation of his Majefties life, and that fo 
 long as Heaven mould continue that prefervation, he fhould take it to be a 
 greater honour to continue himfelf a Subject, than to afcend the Throne. And 
 indeed he was never abfent from his Father, that he might be the better able 
 no ferve him in his ficknefs ; and becaufe he would be prefent upon all occa- 
 
 flODSj 
 
Book II. Travels in India. io? 
 
 lions, he lay by his Fathers Bed-fide, upon a Tapeftry fpread upon the ground. 
 
 During the falfe report of the death of Cba-jeban, his three other Sons im- 
 mediately rebell'd, every one laying claim to their Fathers Crown. . Morat- 
 Bakche the youngeft, who had the Government of Guzerat, fent away Forces 
 immediately to befiege Surat, the raoft confiderable Port, and moft frequented 
 of any other all over India. The City made no refiftance, for the Walls arc 
 very weak, and broken down in feveral places. But they defended the Citta- 
 del, where the Treafure was, very ftoutly j though the young Ambitious Prince 
 did all he could to make himfelf Matter, of it. Chabas-Kan, one of his Eu- 
 nuchs, who was General of his Army, an induftrious and a<ftive perfon, and who 
 carri'd on the Siege with all the experience of an old Captain ; when he faw 
 he could not carry the Caftle by main force, caus'd it to be uodermin'd in two 
 places, by the affiftance of an European Engineer, which took effedc } fo that 
 upon the twenty-ninth of December^ i6j9, he threw down a good part of the 
 Walls, and filPd up the Moat ; which very much terrifi'd the befieg'd. But 
 they prefently recover'd their courage, and though they were but a fmall num- 
 ber, they defended themfelves for above forty days, to the great dammage and 
 (laughter of Morat-Bakche'' s Army. Chabas-Kan, provok'd at fuch a vigorous 
 refiftance, fought for all the Wives and Children, Parents and Kindred of the 
 Canoneers that were within the Caftle, to place them at the head of his men, 
 when they made their approaches. He alfo fent one of the Brothers of the 
 Governor of the place, to offer him advantageous conditions. But the Gover- 
 nor, being a very loyal perfon, and uncertain of the Kings death, rejedted all 
 his offers. The Eunuch perceiving the Refolution of the Governour, threaten'd 
 the befieged to kill all their Wives and Children, Parents and Kindred, if they 
 did not furrender the place the next day. But neither did any of thole confix 
 derations prevail, till at length the breach being made wider, and the number 
 of defendants decreafing, the Governor furrender'd upon honourable conditions j 
 which were punctually perform'd by Chabas-Kan 3 who feiz'd upon all the Trea« 
 fure, and carried it to Amadabat ; where Morat-Bakche was bufily employ'd 
 in fqueezing the people to get Money. . , 
 
 The news of the taking Surat being brought to this Prince, he prefently 
 provided himfelf a Throne, and fitting upon it on the day which was appointed 
 for the Ceremony, he caus'd himfelf to be declared King, not only of Guz.e- 
 rat, but of all the Dominions of Cba-jehan his Father. At the fame time he 
 alfocoin'd Money, and fent new Governors into all the Cities. But his tottering 
 Throne, not being well fix'd, fell foon to the Ground ; and the youngeft of all 
 the Brothers, for having ufurp'd a Scepter that no ways appertain'd to him, 
 was confin'd to a fevere imprifonment. Prince Dara-Cba fain would have re- 
 liev'd Surat 5 but it was impofTible. For befides that he was bufied in the affiftance 
 of his Father the King, his fecond Brother Sultan-Sujab, more powerful than 
 Morat-Bakche, found him far more work to do. He was already advanc'd into 
 the Kingdom of Lahoft, having abfblutely reduc'd the Kingdom of Bengala. AH 
 that Dara-Cba could do, was to fend Soliman Checour his eldeft Son, with an 
 Army againft Sultan Sujab. The young Prince having defeated his Unde, and 
 driven him back into Bengala, the Frontiers whereof he fecur'd with good Gar- 
 rifons, return'd to Dara-Cba his Father. In the mean time Morat-Bakche, ac- 
 knowledge for King in the Kingdom of Guz.erat t bends all his Force and Coun- 
 fels to make himfelf Emperor of the Indies, to deftroy his Brothers., and to 
 fix his Throne either in Agra or ^ehanabat. , 
 
 Whiles thefe things pafs'd, Aureng-z.eb as ambitious, but more crafty than 
 his Brothers, lets them alone to kindle the firft Fires ; and conceals his own 
 defigns, which afterwards appear'd fo much to the damage of the reft. At 
 firft he feign'd to lay no claim to the Empire, but liv'd a private life, like a 
 Dervicb, or Religious Hermit. And the better to aft his part, he declared to 
 his younger Brother Morat-Bakche , whom he faw to be fo ambitious, how 
 willing he fhould be to affift him in his defigns ; telling him, that becaufe* he 
 merited the Empire by his Valour, he would aid him with his Money and bis 
 Forces to overthrow Dara-Cha J who only ftood in his way. The young Prince,' 
 blinded with the hopes of his good Fortune, eafily believ'd Aureng-Mb. And, 
 
no 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Part II. 
 
 fo joining Forces together; he advances towards Agra, to make himielf Mafter 
 of that City. Dara-Cha marches to meet them j but the Battel was as im- 
 prudently mannag'd by him, as fortunately fought by his Brothers. For Dara- 
 Cha, confiding too much in the principal Officers of his Army, againft the ad- 
 vice of his General, who was his chief Minifter of State, and faithful to him ; 
 thought himfelf fure of the Victory, by falling on before his Brothers had 
 time to repofe themfelves. The firft onfet was very rude and bloody, where 
 Morat-Bakche, full of fire and courage, fighting like a Lyon,, was (hot with five 
 Arrows into the body. The Victory leaning to Dara-Cha, Aureng-z.eb retreated j 
 but foon turn'd head again, when he faw thofe Traytors advancing to his aidj 
 who were in the Army of Dara-Cha, and who had treacheroufly deferted him, 
 after he had loft his beft Officers and his General. With this affiftance Aureng- 
 z.eb. renews the fight againft Dara-Cha y who feeing himfelf betray 'd, and unable 
 to maintain the fight with the fmall number of men which he had left, retreats 
 to Agra, where the King his Father was, who began to mend. The King ad- 
 vis'd his Son to retire to the Fortrefs of Dehly, and to carry the Treafure thai 
 Was in Agra with him ; which he did without delay. Thus the Victory fell in- 
 tirely to Anreng-z,eb and Morat-Bakche, who before the end of the Battel, be- 
 ing weaken'd with the loft of blood, was fore'd to retire to his Tent, to have 
 his wounds dreft. Now it was an eafie thing for Attreng-z.eb to gain thofe 
 Traytors, as well by reafon of the vaft Treafures which' he had, as alfb for thac 
 the Indians are very inconftant, and want generofity. Befides, the Commanders 
 are generally Fugitive Per/tans, perfons of little worth, who are altogether 
 for them that give molt. Cha-Eft-Kan, who was Uncle to thefe four Princes,, 
 whofe Mother was the King's Sifter, went over to Anreng-z.eb with' the greateft part 
 of the principal Commanders that had adher'd to Dara-Cha, and Morat-Bakche^ 
 and had forfaken their Mafters. Morat-Bakche then began to fee his Error in 
 having trufted Anreng-z.cb, who feeing himfelf favour'd by Fortune, Joft no time 
 to accomplifh his ends. Thereupon Morat-Bakche fends to his Brother for the 
 half of the Treafure that he had feiz'd, that he might retire to Gttz.erat. Buc 
 Aftreng-zeb for anfwer affur'd him, that he had no other defign than to ad- 
 vance him to the Throne, to which purpofe he defir'd to confer with him by 
 word of mouth. Morat-Bakche in order to that, finding himfelf indifferently 
 well recover'd of his wounds, goes to vjfit his Brother, who kindly welcom'd 
 him, extoll'd his courage, and told him he deferv'd the beft Empire of the 
 world. The young Prince was charm'd by the melody of fuch fweet language^ 
 while his Eunuch, Shabas-Kan, did all he could to make him fenfible of the 
 (hares that were laid for him. But when Morat-Bakche mould have taken the 
 Eunuchs advice, it was too late j for Aureng-z.eb had already laid his plot to 
 deftroy him: He invites Morat-Bakche to a Feaft ; and the more the one ex- 
 cufes himfelf, the more the other preffes him to come. The young Prince 
 perceiving he would take no denial, refblv'd to go, for fear of difcovering the 
 miftruft he had, although he verily believ'd that that day would be the laft of 
 his life, and that fome deadly poyfon was brew'd for him. However, he was 
 deceiv'd in that particular, for Anreng-z.eb not aiming at his life then , con- 
 tented himfelf only to deprive him of his liberty, and fo inftead of advancing; 
 him to the Throne , fent him away, to be fafely kept in the Caftle of Ga- 
 valeor. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Book II. Travels ///India. II 
 
 chap. nr. 
 
 Of the Imprisonment of Cha-jehan , and how he was punijtid by 
 Aureng-zeb his third Son, for the injuftice he had done Trince 
 Boulaki his Nephew, the Grandchild of Gehan-guir, to whom, as 
 to the Son of the EldesJ Son, the Empire of the Moguls be- 
 longed. 
 
 GEkan-guir, King of India, Son of Achbar , and Grandchild to Houmajon', 
 reign'd very peaceably during the (pace of twenty-three years, equally 
 belov'd both by his Subjeds and Neighbours. But his life feem'd too long 
 to his two Sons, who were both ambitious to reign. The eldeft rais'd a power- 
 ful Army near Labor, with an intention to have furpriz'd his Father, and to 
 have poflefs'd himfelf of the Throne by force. - The King incens'd at the info- 
 Ience of his Son, refolv'd to chafthe him ; meets him with a confiderable Army, 
 defeats him, and takes him Prifoner, with many of the raoft confiderable No- 
 bility that adher'd to him. After which, out of a natural afFedion to His Chil- 
 dren, he fav'd his life, but put out his Eyes. And when he was blind he al- 
 ways kept him about his perfon, with an intention to have prefer'd his eldeft 
 Son Botdakj to theCrown, whole Father had already many Sons, but all very young. 
 But Suit an Conrom, his fecond Son, believing it his right to be prefer'd before a 
 Nephew, refolv'd to leave no ftone unturn'd to remove him from his hopes, 
 and to fettle himfelf in polfefTion before the death of his Father. However 
 he conceal'd his intentions from him , appearing outwardly very obedient to 
 his Father, ho always kept about him the Children of his eldeft Son. By 
 that fubmiftion he more eaiily brought about his defigns; for having by that 
 means gain'd the good will of his Father, he obtain'd leave to carry along with 
 him the blind Prince, his eldeft Brother, to his Government of the Kingdom Decan. 
 He laid before his Father, that it would be far better to remove from his fight, 
 an objed that could not chufe but be fo affliding to him j and that the Prince 
 himfelf, being blind, would fpend the reft of his days more comfortably in 
 Decan, where he might be more retir'd. The King not penetrating into his 
 defign, readily contented to his requeft. Who when he. had that poor Prince 
 in his Clutches, made him away with that fecrefie which was not to be difco- 
 ver'd ; and under the moft plaufible pretence imaginable^ to conceal him from 
 the eyes of men. 
 
 After the death of the blind Prince, Sultan Conrom took upon him the name 
 of Cha-jehan, that is, King of the World ; and to uphold his Title, he rais'd an 
 Army to finifh what his Brother had begun, which was to dethrone his Father, 
 and to take polfeffion of the Empire. The King incens'd as well at the death 
 of his Son, as at the attempt againft his own perfon, fent a confiderable Army 
 to chaftife Courom for fo bold an Enterprize. But the rebellious Prince finding 
 himfelf too weak to ftand his Fathers force, quitted the Kingdom of Decan^ 
 and with certain Vagabonds that follow'd him, wander'd from place to place, 
 till he came to Bengala,v/herehe rais'd an Army with an intention to give theKing 
 Battel. To which purpofe, paffing the Ganges, he marches diredly toward the 
 Kingdom of Labor ; whom the King in perfon met, with an Army much more 
 numerous and ftronger than his. But Gehan-guir being old, and wearied with 
 the troubles that his Sons had put him to, dy'd by the way, leaving C ja-jehan 
 atliberty to purfue his own defigns. However before he expir'd, the good King 
 had time to recommend his Grandchild Boulaki to Afeuf-Kan, his Generaliffimo 
 and prime Minifter of State, who wa^s Protedor of the Empire. He commanded 
 alfo all the Officers of the Army to acknowledg him for King, as being the 
 lawful Heir ; declaring Sultan Komrom a Rebel, and incapable of the Succelfion. 
 Moreover he made Afouf-Kan to fwear in particular, that he would never 
 fuffer Boulaki to be put to death, which way foever a^irs went ; which Afouf- 
 Kan fware upon his Thigh 5 and as religioufly obferv'd as to the Article of not 
 
 pup-' 
 
112 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Part. II 
 
 putting him to death j but not as to that of helping him to the Crown, which 
 he defign'd for Cha-jehan, who had married his eldeft Daughter, the Mother of 
 four Princes, and two Princeffes. 
 
 The news of the Kings death being known at Court, caus'd a general la- 
 mentation. And prefently all the Grandees of the Kingdom fet themfelves ro 
 execute the Kings Will and Teftament, acknowledging Sultan Boulaki for Em- 
 peror, who was very young. That Prince had two Coufin-Germans, who were 
 both of them by the Kings confent turn'd Chriftians, and made publick pro- 
 feffion thereof. Thofe two young Princes, being very apprehenfive, perceiv'd 
 that Afouf-Kan, Father-in-Law to Cha-jehan, and Father of Cha-Ejt-Kan, had 
 no good intentions toward the young King, and gave him notice of it ; which 
 coft them their lives, and the King the lofs of his Dominions. For the young 
 King, having no more wit than was agreeable to his age, openly declar'd to 
 Afouf-Kan what his Coufins had reveaFd to him in private, and ask'd the Ge- 
 neral whether it were true, that he had a defign to fet up his Uncle againft 
 him or no. Afuof-Kan immediately accus'd the Reporters of falfitv and im- 
 pudence, and protefted his fidelity to his King, and vow'd to fpend the laft 
 drop of his blood to preferve him in the pofleffion of the Empire. However 
 feeing his Confpiracy difcover'd, he refolv'd to prevent the punifhment ; to 
 which end having got the two Princes into his pofieflion, he put them both 
 to death. But before that, in regard of his power in the Army and in the 
 Empire, he had already brought over to Cba-jehans party the greateft part of 
 the Commanders and Lords of the Court ; and the better to play his game, 
 and deceive the young King, he rais'd a report that Cba-jehan was dead j and 
 becaufe he had defir'd to be buried near his Father Geban-guir, the body was 
 to be brought to Agra. This Stratagem being cunningly manag'd, Afouf-Kan 
 himfelf gave advice of the feign'd death to the King 3 telling the King withal), 
 that it would be but a common civility for him to go and meet the Corps 
 when it came within a League or two of the City, being an Honour due tQ a 
 Prince of the Blood of the Moguls. All this while Cba-jehan kept himfelf in- 
 cognito, till coming within fight of the Army that lay about Agra, he caus'd 
 himfelf to be put into a Coffin, wherein there was only a hole left for him to 
 breath at. This Goffin being earn d under a moving Tent, all the principal Officers 
 who were of the plot with Afouf-Kan } came to perform the ufual Ceremonies 
 of State to the body of the deceas'd Prince, while the young Kins was upon 
 the way to meet the body. But then Afouf-Kan finding it feafonable to exe- 
 cute his defign, caus'd the Coffin to be open'd, and Cba-jehan rifing up, and 
 mewing himfelf to the eyes of all the Army, was faluted Emperor by all the 
 Generals and other principal Officers, who had rhcir Cue ready ; fo that the 
 name of Cba-jehan running in a moment from one mans mouth to another, the 
 Acclamation became publick, and the Empire was fetled upon him. The young 
 King hearing the news by the way, was fb furpriz'd, that he thought of no- 
 thing but how to fave himfelf by flight, being upon a fudden forfaken by all 
 his followers. And Cha-jehan not believing it any way necefTary to purfiie him, 
 fuffer'd him to wander a long time in India like a Fakir. At length he retir'd 
 into Perfia, where he was magnificently receiv'd by Cha-Sefi, who allow'd 
 him a penfion fit for fo great a Prince, which he ftill enjoys. 
 
 Cha-jehan having thus ufurp'd the Crown, the better to fecure himfelf, and 
 to ftifle all Fa&ions that might arife during the life of the lawful Prince, whom 
 he had fo unjuftly defpoiled of his right, by degrees put to death all thofe 
 that had fhew'n any kindnefs to his Nephew. So that the firft part of his 
 Reign was noted for many afts of cruelty, that blemifh'd his reputation. No 
 lefs unfortunate was the end of his Reign. For as he had unjuftly deprived the 
 lawful Heir, of the Empire which belong'd to him ; he was himfelf, while he 
 yet Iiv'd, depriv'd of his Crown by Ameng-z.eb his own Son, who kept him 
 Prifoner in the Fortrefs of Agra. 
 
 For after. Dara-Cba had loft the Battel againft his two Brothers, Aureng-wb and 
 Morat-Bakche, in the Plain of Samonguir, and was treacheroully abandoned by the 
 principal Officers of the Army., he retir'd into the Kingdom of Labor, with all the 
 Treafure which the conftffion of his affairs would fuffer him to get together. In 
 
 the 
 
Book n. 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 the King to refift the violence of his victorious Sons, (hut himfelf up in the 
 Caftle of Agra, to the end he might not be furpriz'd, but have time and 
 leifure to obferve how far the infolence of his children would tranfport them. 
 As for Anrengz.eb, who had Marat Bakche fafe enough, he enters Agra,, feigning 
 to believe a report that Cba-jehan was dead, that he might have liberty to get 
 into the Fortrels, where he (aid one of the Omra's would make it out. The more 
 he reported the death of Cba-jehan, the more did the King endeavour to let the 
 people know he was alive. But finding both Power and Fortune had taken 
 Aureng-^eFs party ; and being alfo in great neceffity for want of water, he tent 
 Faz.el-Kan, grand Mafter of his Houfhold, to allure his Son that he was alive j 
 and withal to tell him that it was the King's command, that he mould retire to 
 his Vice-Roy- fliip in Decan, without putting him to any more vexation, and that 
 upon his obedience, he would forgive whatever had palt. Aurengz*eb', firm in his 
 refolution,, return'd for anfwer to Faz.el-K.an, that he was certain that the King 
 his Father was dead, and that upon that account he had only taken Arms to fe- 
 cure the Crown to himfelf; which he thought he deferv'd, as well as the reft of 
 his Brothers. That if his Father were living, he had too great a refpect for him 
 to undertake the leaft enterprize that mould difpleafe him ; and therefore that 
 he might be certain he was not dead, he defir'd to fee him, and to kits his feet j 
 and having fo done, he would retire to his Government, and punctually obey his 
 Commands. Faz,el-Kan return'd this anfwer to the King, who declar'd that he 
 mould be glad to fee his Son, and fent back Faz,el-Kan, to tell him he mould be 
 welcome. But Aareng-wb more cunning than Cha-jeban, aflur'd Faz.el-Kan that, 
 he would not fet his foot in the Caftle, till the Garrifon that was in it fhould be 
 fent away to make room for his men. For the Prince was afraid, and not without 
 reafon, if he mould adventure into a Fortrefs where he was not abfolute Mafter 
 himfelf, left they fhould feize his perfon, of which the King being apprehenfive, 
 confented to his propofal, not being able to do better at that time. Thereupon 
 the Garrifon which belong'd to Cha-jeban was fent out of the Caftle, and another 
 of AureKg-z.ePs enter'd_, commanded by Sultan Mahomet the eldeft of his Sons, 
 to whom he gave order to fecure his Father's perfon. When they were thus got 
 in, and his Father fafe, he delaid feeing his Father from day to day; waiting (as he 
 gave ou t for excufej a kind opportunity for the entervieW; and pretending his 
 Aftrologers did not prefently think it feafonable, he retir'd into the Countrey, to 
 a Houfe about two or three leagues from Agra, which very much difpleafed the 
 people, who waited every day for the fortunate hour, from which they expected 
 a conclufion of their miferies by the Father and Son's difcourfe together. Bur 
 Aureng-i-eb, who was in no great haft to fee his Father, took up another refolu- 
 tion, which was to feize upon all his Fathers treafure, which Dara-Sba had not 
 time to carry away. He alfo fhut up in the fame Fortreis Bcgum-Saheb his Sifter, 
 to keep the King company, by whom fhe was ent ; rely belov'd : and took into 
 -his own hands all the wealth me had got, by her Father's liberality. 
 
 Cha-jeban enrag'd to fee himfelf us'd in that manner by his own Son, made an 
 attempt to efcape, and kill'd fome of the Guards that oppos'd him j which 
 caus'd Aureng-^eb more ftrictly to confine him. In the mean time it was a won- 
 derful thing to fee that not one of the Servants of fo great a King fo much as 
 offer'd to help him ; that all his Subjects fhould forfake him, and turn their eyes 
 upon the rifing-Sun 5 acknowledging only Aureng-z,cb for King, while they feem'd 
 to have forgotten Cba-}:ban 3 though ftill alive. Thus this great Monarch fadly 
 ended his days in Prifon, and dy'd in the Fortrefs of Agra in the year 1666 
 the laft time that I was in India. 
 
 During his Reign he had begun to build the City of fehanabad, though he had 
 not quite finifh'd it, and therefore he defir'd to fee it once more before he dy'd j 
 but Aureng-zeb would not give him leave, unlefs he would be content to go and 
 come back by water, or elfe to be confin'd to the Caftle of fehanabad, as he was 
 at Agra, which refufal of his Son did fo torment him, that it haften'd his end. 
 Which as foon as Aureng-t-eb heard of, he came to sigra, and feiz'd upon all the 
 Jewels, which he had not taken from his Father while he liv'd. Begttm-Saheb 
 had alfo a quantity of Jewels, which he had not taken from her when he put her 
 into the Caftle. But now, becaufe fhe had formerly taken her Father's part, he [ 
 
 * found 
 
ii4 Travels in India. Part. II. 
 
 found out a way to deprive her of them after a very plaufible manner ; making 
 a mew of beftowing very great Honours and Careffes upon his Sifter, and taking 
 her along with him to fehanabad. But in a fhort time after we heard the news 
 of her death 3 which prov'd , and all people fufpected her to have been poifon'd. 
 
 CHAP. IV- 
 
 Of the Flight of Dara-cha to the Kingdoms of Scindi and Guzerat : Of 
 
 the \econd Battel which he fought againft Aureng-2eb : His being 
 taken c Prifoner, and death. 
 
 T~\Ara-cha having earn d along with him the beft part of the Gold and Silver 
 A-S which was in the Fortrefs of Agra by his Father s advice, and being got in- 
 to the Kingdom of Labor, was in good hopes to have rais'd an Army in a fhorc 
 time to have ftopt the proceedings of his Brother. His moft faithful Servants 
 and Friends had always accompani'd him in his misfortune. And as for his Eldeft 
 Son 3 Soiiman Shekow, he went, with the Raja Roup, into the Territories of that 
 Raja's own demeans, to levy men ; carrying along with him five-millions of 
 Roupies, which make of our Money feven-millions and yooooo Livres. But 
 that great Sum opening the Raja Roup's eyes, he moft treacheroufly and infa- 
 moufly feiz'd upon it ; whereupon Soiiman Cbekpur, fearing he fhould proceed 
 farther, and make fome attempt upon his perfon, fled in all haft into the Kingdom 
 of Sireneguer, under the protection of the Raja Nakti-Rani, who more foully 
 and bafely deliver'd him up fbmetime after to Aureng-^eb. 
 
 Dara-cha having notice of the Raja Roufs treafon, and feeing all his friends 
 had forfook him, and were revolted to Anreng-^eb, quitted Labor, and retir'd in- 
 to the Kingdom of Scindi. Before he left the Fortrefs, he fent all the Gold, 
 Silver, Jewels and Wealth that was in the Fort, away by water to Bakjr, a Fort 
 in the mid:): of the River Indus. To guard all that Wealth, he left an Eunuch, 
 and fix-thoufand men, with all provifions neceffary for a Siege j after that he went 
 to Scindi } wheve he left feveral great pieces of Cannon.Then he rnarch'd through the 
 Territories of the Raja of Kachnagana, who made him mountainous promiles to 
 no effect ; then he came into the Kingdom of Guzerat, where the people receiv'd 
 him as their lawful King and Heir to Cha-jshan. He fent his Orders to all the 
 Cities, and particularly to Surat, where he appointed a Governor ; but the Gover- 
 nor of the Fortrefs, who was left there by Morat-Bakche, refus'd to fubmit to 
 Dara-cha, fo that he was fore'd to let him alone. 
 
 In the mean time Dara-cha receiv'd news at Amadabat, that fejfomfeing, one of 
 the moft potent Raja's in all India, was falPn off from Aumng-^eb. . The fame 
 Raja alfo folicits him to advance with his Army. Dara-cha confiding in his 
 words, follow'd his counfel, and rnarch'd to Emir, which was the place of Rende- 
 vouz appointed. But Raja fejfomfeing being regain'd by the perfwafions of Raj* 
 feffeing, more potent than himfelf, to favour Aureng-^eb, never met according to 
 his promife j nor did he come till the laft pufh ; and then only with a defign to 
 betray the poor Prince. Thus the two Brothers meeting, they came to a Battel 
 which lafted three days : but in the heat of all the Fight, fejfomfeing fhewing an 
 apparent' treachery, went over to Aureng-z~eb ; upon which Dara-cba's Souldiers 
 immediately fled. Dara-cha having thus loft all his hopes, and finding Fortune con- 
 trary to all his expectations, fled away likewife with his Wives, fome of his Chil- 
 dren, and his moft faithful Servants, in an equipage that drew compaffion. But 
 coming to Amadabat, the Governor having declar'd for Aureng-z.eb 3 deni'd him 
 entrance. Thereupon he difcamp'd in the middle of the night, and took the road 
 for Scindi. 
 
 He arriv'd at Scindi, with an intention to pafs into Perjia, where Cba-Abas the 
 Second expected him with a magnificent Retinue, and a resolution to have afTifted 
 
 him 
 
Book II. Travels in India. 
 
 him with Men and Money. But not daring to truft himfelf by Sea ; as he pafs'd 
 through the Countrey of the Patanes, in the way to Candahar, he was unworthily 
 betraid by one of the Lords of the Countrey, call'd G ion-Kan ; who had been an 
 Officer under the King his Father, and who having been condemn'd for his crimes 
 by the mouth of his Father, and ready to be thrown under the Elephant's-feer, 
 had been pardon'd at the interceflion of Dara-cha. For an addition to his affliction, 
 before he came to G ion- Kan's Houfe, he receiv'd the news of the death of that 
 particular Wife which he lov'd raoft entirely, and which had always accompani'd 
 him in his misfortunes. He underftood that fhe dy'd through heat and drowth, 
 not being able to get a drop of water in the Countrey to refrefh her thirft. 
 The Prince was fo mov'd at the news, that he fell down, like one that had been 
 ftruck quite dead ; and when he came to himfelf, he tore his clothes in the ex- 
 cefs of his grief : an ancient cuftom ftill continu'd in the Eaft. He had always 
 ftiew'd himfelf infenfible upon all other occafions of misfortune, but this fatal 
 ftroke fo deeply pierc'd him, that he would receive no confolation from his friends. 
 After this, he clad himfelf according to his misfortune; and Inftead of a Turbant, 
 he only put about his head a piece of coarfe Calicut. In this miferable equipage he 
 enter'd into the Houfe of the Traytor Gion-Kan, where being laid down to reft 
 himfelf upon a Field-bed, a new fubjedt of forrow awak'd him. For G ion- Kan 
 having a defign to feize Sepper-Shekpur, Dara-cha's fecond Son, the young Prince, 
 though but a Youth, made a bold refiftance, and with his Bow and Arrows laid 
 three men upon the ground ; but not being able to refill a multitude, he was at 
 length taken. Dara-cba waken'd with the noife, law before his eyes his Son, 
 whom they were leading toward him, with his hands ty'd behind him. Then the 
 miferable Father of the young Prince no longer misdoubting the horrid treafon 
 of Gion-Kan, could not refrain from letting fall in his pai'fion thefe expreffions. 
 Finifl?, faid he, ingrateful and infamous Villain as thou art, finijh the wor^ thou hafi 
 begun j vee are become Victims to bad Fortune, and Aureng-zeb'j unjufi Ambition. 
 But remember that I only deferve death for having fav'd thy life : for never Prince 
 of the Royal Blood had his hands ty'd behind him before. Gion-Kan in fome mea- 
 lu re mov'd at thefe words, causM the little Prince to be unbound, and only fet 
 guards upon Dara-cha and his Son. At the fame time he alfo fent exprefles to 
 Raja fejfomfeing, and to Abdttlla-Kan, to give them advice that he had feiz'd up- 
 on Dara-cha and his Train. Thereupon they made haft to fhare in the fpoils 
 of that poor Prince. But they could not be fo fwift, but that Gion-Kan 
 had feiz'd upon all that Dara-cha had of molt precious in the World; ufing 
 as inhumanly both his Wives and his Children. The Raja and AbdulU being ar- 
 riv'd, provided Elephants for the Prince, his Son, and his Wives, and earn d them 
 away immediately to fehanabat ; the people crowded to behold them, every one 
 being defirous to fee the Prince whom they fo earneftly defir'd to have had for their 
 King. Aureng-z.eb caufed them to be {hewn in all the Streets and Market-places 
 of fehanabat, that no man might queftion hereafter their being taken ; and as if 
 he had glori'd in his treachery toward his Brother, he prefently condemn'd and 
 fent him away to the Caftle of AJfer. But of all that crowded to behold, not 
 one would ftir to affift or fuccour their lawful Prince. Only fome few generous 
 Souldiers who had ferv'd him, and had receiv'd fome kindnefles from him, feeing 
 themfelves not able to deliver their Prince, yet defirous to (hew him fome proofs 
 of their acknowledgment, fell with all their fury upon the Traitor Gion-Kan, who 
 though he were refcu'd from them at that time, yet foon after met with the re- 
 ward due to his crime ; for he was kill'd as he was crofting a Wood in his return 
 home. 
 
 In the mean time Aureng-z.eb, like a good Politician, and an extraordinary Dif- 
 fembler, gave it out, that it was by no order of his that Dara-cha was feiz'd j on- 
 ly he defir'd him to retire out of the Kingdom, which he refufing to do, Gion-Kan, 
 unknown to him, had unworthily feiz'd hisperfon; and without refpecT; to the 
 Royal-Blood, had fhamefully ty'd the hands of the young Sepper-Shekpur behind 
 him : which being a crime and an indignity done to his Majefty, had been puniftYd 
 by the death of Gion-Kan and his accomplices. But this was only publifh'd to 
 abufe the people ; for had it been true, Aureng-z,eb would never have given order 
 to have his Brother's head cut off. 
 
 * CL2 For 
 
n6 Travels in India. Part II. 
 
 For Dara-Cha being fent from fehanabat with a Guard to the place of his 
 imprifonment ; when he came to a fair place where he thought to repofe him 
 felf, they drefs'd up the Tent where he was to leave his Head. After he had 
 eaten., Seif-Kan came and brought him the fentence of his Death. Dara-Cha 
 feeing him enter, told him he was very welcome, and that he was glad to lee 
 one of his molt faithful Servants. Seif-Kan made anfwer, that indeed he had 
 formerly been one of his Servants, but that now he was the Slave of Anreng- 
 z,eb, who had commanded him to bring him his Head. Muft I dye then ? faid 
 Dara-Cha. Tis the Rings command, reply'd Seif-Kan, and I am entrufted to 
 execute it. Sepper-Cbckour, who Jay in an anti-Chamber of the Tent, waking 
 upon this conteft , would have feiz'd upon certain weapons which had been 
 taken from him, with an intention to have afhfted his Father 5 but he was pre- 
 vet.tedby thofe thataccompany'd Seif-Kan. Dara-Cha would have made fome 
 refiftance himfelf, but feeing it was in vain, he only defir'd time for his devo- 
 tions, which was granted him. In the mean time Sepper-Cbikoxr was taken from 
 him ; and while they held him a ftory, a Slave took off Dara-Cha s Head, 
 which was carried to Aureng-z*eb by Seif-Kan. This bloody Tragedy being 
 thus acted, Sepper-Chekour was fent to the Caftle of G'oHaleor, to keep his Uncle 
 Morat-Bahche company. As for the Wives and Daughters of Dara-Cha r 
 they were allotted an Apartment in Aureng-zeb's Haram. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 How Aureng-zeb ciusd him felf to be dee lard King ;. and of the flight- 
 
 of Sukan-Sujah. 
 
 AS it is the cuftom at the performance of that Ceremony, for the new King 
 to feat himfelf upon the Throne ; there was not much time requir'd to. 
 prepare one, in regard that Cha-jehan before his imprifonment had finifh'd that 
 which the Great Tamerlane had begun ; which was the richeft and mofc magni- 
 ficent that ever was fecn. But as the Grand Cadi of the Empire, and Chief 
 of the Law was to Proclaim the new Fling, Anreng-z.cb found himfelf oppos'd 
 by him. For the Cadi told him, that the Law of Mahomet and the Law of Na- 
 ture equally forbad him to declare him King, while his Father Jiv'd ; befides, 
 that he had put his elder Brother to death, to whom the Empire belong'd af- 
 ter the death of Cha-jehan their Father. This ftout refiftance of the Cadi did 
 not a little perplex Aureng-^eb 5 and therefore that he might not feem to ap- 
 pear irreligious, he call'd all the Doctors of the Law together, to whom he 
 reprefented the incapacity of his Father to govern, through age and many infir- 
 mities that troubled him ; as for Dara-Cha his Brother, he had put him to death,, 
 becaufe he was a (lighter of the Law, drank Wine, and favour'd Infidels. Thofe 
 reafons, intermixed with threats, caus'd his Council of Confcience to conclude,, 
 that he deferv'd the Empire, and ought to be proclaim'd King j though the 
 Cadi obftinately perfifted in his firft refolution. There was no other remedy 
 therefore, but to remove him from his employment, as a difturber of the 
 publick peace, and to chufe another for the Honour of the Law, and the Good 
 of the Kingdom. The perfon who was elected by the Council WdS foon con- 
 firm'd by Aureng-z.eb j in • acknowledgment whereof, he proclaim'd him King 
 the twentieth of Otlober, 1660. This Proclamation being made in the Mof^u'ee, 
 Aureng-z,eb feated himfelf upon the Throne, and receiv'd the Hcunages of all 
 the Grandees of the Kingdom. 
 
 However, Aureng-^eb did not think his Throne faft enough, nor himfelf fe- 
 cure in the Empire, Co long as Saltan Su]ah was railing a powerful Army in 
 Bagala to releafe his Father. Thereupon he fent a considerable Force againft 
 him, under the Command of Sultan Mahomed his eldeft Son; to whom he ap- 
 pointed for his Lieutenant the Emir-}emla } one of the greateft Captains that 
 ever came out of Perfia into India. His great Conduct and Courage had ren- 
 der'd him a perfon to be reverene'd by all pofterity, had he been faithful to 
 
 the 
 
Book II Travels in India. t i "t 
 
 the Princes whom he ferv'd. But firft he betray'd the King of Golconda, un- 
 der whom he advanc'd his Fortune; and next to him Cha-jehan, under whofe 
 protection he rofe fo high, that there was not a Nobleman in all India more 
 .powerful or richer than he. Otherwife he is both belov'd and fear'd by the 
 Soldiers, and perfectly underftands the Art of War, according to the cuftom 
 of the Country. The two Armies engaging feveral times, the Victory was fome- 
 times on the one fide, and fometimes on the other ; fo that Sultan Mahomed 
 finding it likely ro be a tedious War, afTifted by the Counfels of his Lieute- 
 nant, refolv'd to add policy to ftrength. Thereupon he treats underhand with 
 the Officers of his Uncle's Army,, makes them magnificent promifes, and fo ear- 
 neftly follicites them to come over to Aureng-z.eti's party., whom he call'd the 
 Pillar and Protector of Mahomet's Law, that he gain'd the principal, to whom 
 he fent considerable Prefents, to confirm them in their refolutions. This was a 
 mortal blow to Sultan-Sujah, againft which he could not provide. For they that 
 adhear'd to him being a mercenary generation, that ferves whoever gives moft, 
 finding they had little more to expect from a Prince whofe Exchequer was 
 empty, refolv'd to drive a Trade with ■ Aurcng-z.eb , who was Matter of all the 
 Treafure in the Kingdom. And thus did Aureng-z^eb debauch the Army of his " 
 Brother, who in the laft Battel, feeing himfelf abandon'd by all his Soldiers, 
 was forc'd to faVe himfelf by flight, with his Wives and Children. The Tray- 
 tors afham'd of their treachery, did not fo fmartly purfue the unfortunate Prince 
 as they might have done, but prefently fell to plund'ring his Tents and Bag- 
 gage ; which Emir-femla fufFer'd them to do, in recompence of their Trea- 
 fon. Sultan-Sujah in the mean time eroding the Ganges with his Retinue, re- 
 tir'd fome time afterwards into the Kingdom of Arai^an i upon the Confines of 
 Bengala, where we fhall leave him for a time. 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Of the imprisonment of Suiran-Mahcmed , Aureng-zebV eldeft fn \ 
 ar.d of Sultan Soliman Chekour, cldcH fen oj Dara-Cha. 
 
 T Hough Aureng-z,eb were efteem'd a very great Politician, and were fo in- 
 deed, yet he fail'd in his Politicks, to truft his Son with fiich a power- 
 ful Army, under the Conduct of a Captain who had already betray'd two Matters. 
 However at length he began to be jealous, left Heaven fhould infpire his own 
 Son to revenge the crimes which he had committed. And upon this, receiving 
 intelligence, that Sultan Mahomed began to be very penfive and melancholy, 
 he then abfolutely believ'd that his Son was practifing mifchief againft him ; 
 for the better difcovery whereof, he wrote to Emir-Jemla. But the Letter un- 
 happily mifcarrying, was taken by Sultan Mahomed!?, Guards , and giv'n to the 
 young Prince; who being a perfon of a quick apprehenfion, conceal'd the bu- 
 fmefs from Emir-femla ; and fearing left he Ihould receive other Orders more 
 precife to take away his life, he refolv'd to pals the Ganges, and throw himfelf 
 upon his Uncle Sultan Sujah ; from whom he expected more mercy than from 
 his Father. With this refolution he feign'd to go a fifhing, and paffing the Ganges t 
 with feveral Officers that adher'd to him, he went directly to Sultan Sujah's 
 Camp, which lay on the other fide of the River ; the Sultan having rais'd a 
 confiderable Force in the Kingdom of Arakan. Sultan Mahomed coming, into 
 his Uuncles prefence, threw himfelf at his feet, begging his pardon for having 
 taken Arms againft him, as being forc'd thereto by his Father. Now though 
 Sultan Sujah had reafon enough to believe, that Mahomed"?, coming into his. 
 Camp, was only a trick of his Father, to ferid his Son as a Spy to difcover his 
 condition ; yet being a vertuous and generous Prince, and feeing his Nephew 
 proftrate at his feet, he could not but raife him up ; after which, embracing f 
 him, he alfur'd him of his protection againft Aunng-z^eb. Some days after^ thefe 
 
 fwV 
 
1 1 8 Travels in India. Part. II. 
 
 two Princes made an attempt, and paffing Ganges, and fetching a compafs thought 
 to have furpriz'd the Enemies Army, who dreamt not: of their coming. Thcy 
 made a vigorous onfet, and kill'd a great number of men. But when they found 
 the whole Army had taken the AJarum, they contented themfelves with the* 
 mifchief they had done, and repafs'd .the Ganges, for fear of being furrounded 
 by number. 
 
 Emir-femla had already given intelligence to Aureng-z.eb of the flight of his 
 Son; which fenfibly griev'd the Father, though he durlt not {hew his anger, 
 for fear of incenfing the Emir to betray hirn^ as he had betray'd his Father. 
 Thereupon he cunningly wrote to him, that he rely'd altogether upon his pru- 
 dence and policy to retrieve his Son to his duty; that he was young, and that 
 what he had done, was only out his heat of youth, and the inconitancy inci- 
 cident to his years. The confidence which Aureng-z,eh feem'd to put in Em<r- 
 femla incited the General to ufe all his endeavours to get Mahomet out of 
 Sultan Sujah\ hands. Thereupon he gave the young Prince to underftand his 
 Fathers good intentions toward him, and that he was ready to receive him 
 with open Arms, fo that he would but make good ufe of his Retidence with Sultan 
 Sajah, which he might pretend was done for the advantage to his Father, and for 
 which his Father would have rather caufe to extol his prudence and affection 
 than otherwife. The young Prince eafily fuffer'd himfelf to be perfwaded, and 
 the fame way he went to his Uncle's, the fame way he returnd to his Fathers 
 Camp ; where Emir-femla receiv'd him honourably, and with all the demon- 
 ftfations of joy. He advis'd him alfo, to tell his Father when he fa w him, that 
 he did not go over to Saltan Sajah, but only with a defign to obferve what 
 Forces he had, and the Difcipline of his Army ; and that he intended to have 
 fpeedily return'd , and to have given him an account of what he had done 
 for his fervice. Prefently Orders came from Aureng-z.eb, that his Sen fhould 
 be fent to him ; fo that Mahomed, whether by conftraint, or willingly, fetr for- 
 ward for fehanabat, attended by the Guards which Emir-femla had appointed. 
 The King having notice of his arrival, his Majefty order'd him a Lodging with- 
 out the Palace, and would hot permit him to kifs his hands ; pretending he 
 was not well. 
 
 All this while Soliman-Chekour, after he lrad been betray'd by the Raja Roup, 
 had continu'd under the protection of Natti-Ram in the Province of Serenaguer. 
 This Prince, as ftout as he was unfortunate, was ccnltrain'd to lead a Savage 
 life among the Mountains, for fear of falling into the hands of Aureng-ul-, nor 
 could he with all his Forces do him any harm in that place. Befide NaSli- 
 Rani had afTur'd him with an Oath, accompany'd with all the Ceremonies that 
 could make it folemn, and inviolable; that he would rather lofe his Territo- 
 dom , then that Aareng-z.eb fhould do the leaft violence to that protection 
 which he afforded him. This was done upon the Banks of a River, which paffes 
 through his Country, where he wafh'd his body, in token of the purity of his 
 Soul ; and being thus purify'd in the Water, he made his proteftations to Soli- 
 man-Chekour, never to forfake him, taking his Gods to Witnefs of the fince- 
 rity of his intentions. Upon this, Soliman-Chekour never took any farther care, 
 but every day went to divertife himfelf with hunting. While he gives up 
 himfelf to his pleafure, Aureng-z.eb marches his Army toward tfie Mountains, 
 thinking to force the Natli-Rani to furrender Soliman-Chekour into his power. 
 But the Raja with a thoufand men being able to defend the Avenues of his 
 Country againft a hundred thoufand, Aureng-z.eb finding he could do no good 
 that way, has recourfe to policy. He undertakes at firft to treat with the Raja, 
 but in vain, for the Raja would not violate his Oath ; and his Priefts afTur'd 
 him befides, that Aureng-z^eb fhould e're long be depos'd, and that Salman 
 Chehour fhould Reign in his room. 
 
 Aureng-z.eb thus prevented, refolves to make another kind of War upon him. 
 Thereupon he forbids all commerce between his and the Raja's Subjects ; which 
 was very prejudicial tb the latter. This caus'd the people to murmur at the 
 protection which he had given to Soliman-Chekour ; and at length they publickly 
 * cry'd out, that it was to the prejudice of the publick. Their Priefts alfo, thus 
 alarm'd, began to doubt the truth of their Oracles, and to think it convenient 
 
 to 
 
Book II. Travels in 1 N ma. 119 
 
 to put another interpretation upon them. But the main thing was, that the R*ja 
 Jejfumf:i. ^ '"ho had betraid Dara-Cha, wrote privately to NaUi-Rani, that it was 
 for the fafety cf his Ferfon and Dominions, to fubmit to Aureng-z^eb 5 and to fur- 
 render his kinfman up into his hands. This advice of fcffomfeing put him to a very 
 great plunge 5 dreading on the one fide the breach of his oath ; on the other, 
 the revolt of his- people. Uncertain what courfe to take, he confults the Bra- 
 mins, who gave their opinions that it was his duty rather to preferve his People 
 and his Laws, which would be both deftroid, mould they fall into the hands of 
 u4Krer.g-z.eb, than to keep his Faith with a Prince from whom he could never ex- 
 pect any advantage. Thele confultations being kept private from Soliman Che- 
 hour, his ruine was concluded upon, while he thought himfelf moft fecure. There- 
 upon Natti-Rani, with a Salvo, as he thought, to his Honour aDd his Confcience, 
 return'd for anfwer to fejfomfang, that he could not confent to betray the Prince ; 
 but that Ameng-z.cL might take his opportunity to feize his perfon, yet prelerve 
 his reputation too : in regard that Soliman Chekour was wont to go a Hunting up- 
 on certain Mountains in his Countrey with a fmall retinue, and that it wouM 
 be an eafy thing for him to fend a number of Souldiers fufficient to apprehend 
 him. 
 
 So foon as fcjfomfeing had receiv'd this anfwer, he gave order to his Son to fee 
 the bufinefe efte&ed as the plot was laid. So that Soliman Chekour one day going 
 a Hunting to the ufual place, was fnapt by a ftrong party that lay in Ambufcade. 
 The Prince prefently apprehended the treafon, and defended himfelf with the af- 
 fiftance of his Attendants, who were all flain ; he himfelf flew nine, but at length 
 over-number'd, was taken and carri'd to fehanabat. When he came into 
 Aureng-z.eb's prefence, the King ask'd him how he did ? As well as a Prhoner of 
 yours can do, laid he, who expects no better ufage from you, than his Father re- 
 ceiv'd before. The King bid him not be afraid, that he had no defign to put him 
 to death, but only to fecure his perfon. Aureng-z,eb after that , demanding of 
 him what Was become of all the Treafure which he had carri'd away, the Prince 
 made anfwer that he had fpent a great part in raifing Souldiers againft him to have 
 ruin'd him, if it had been his good fortune : That a good part was in the hands of 
 Raja Roup, whofe avarice and perfidioufnefs was fufficiently known. And that 
 Nafti-Rani had got the remainder to deliver him to his enemies, to the prejudice 
 of 'his word and honour. Ameng-z.eb was furpriz'd and touch'd at the boldnels 
 of his Nephew 5 but ambition fhutting his eyes, and ftifling all thoughts of 
 juftice, which the juft remorfe of Confcience might excite within him, he gave or- 
 der that Sultan Mahomet his Son, and Soliman Chekour his Nephew mould both be 
 committed to the Fort of Goualeor to keep Morat-Bak^chs company, which was 
 done the ^oth of fan. 1661. 
 
 Sultan Sujah, who was yet alive, but ftill liv'd miferably, was the laft thorn in 
 Aureng-z.et>'s foot 5 and the perfon that drew it out for him, and rid him of his 
 laft pain, was the King of Arakan, whither the unfortunate Prince was at length 
 fore'd to retire. Who finding all his hopes to be loft, began to think of a Pilgri- 
 mage to Mecca, and from thence to go into Perfa, and implore a Sanctuary un- 
 der the protection of that Prince. To this purpofe he thought he might obtain 
 a Veflel from the King of Arakan, or the King of Pegu, to carry him to Mecca : 
 but he was ignorant that neither of thofe Kings had any Veftels, that would live in 
 the main Ocean. So that he was conftrain'd to ftay with the King of Arakan, an 
 Idolater, whofe Daughter he dehYd in Marriage, which the King granted, and by 
 whom he had a Son. But that which ought to have been the greateft occafion of 
 friendftiip between the Son-in-law and the Father-in-law, was the greateit<reafon 
 of their hatred and falling-out. For fome Lords of the Countrey, who began to 
 be jealous of Saltan Sujah, buzz'd the King of Arakan in the ear, as if he had an 
 intention by vertue of his Marriage, to difpolfefs him of his Throne, and to leave 
 it to his own Son. The Pagan King eafily believ'd what they faid. Nor were 
 thefe fupitions ill-grounded ; for Sultan Sujah having good ftore of Gold and 
 Jewels, eafily corrupted feveral Mahumetans that liv'd in the Kingdom of Ara- 
 kan, and with thofe and about two-hunder'd men more that had follow'd him af- 
 ter the rout of his Army, he undertook a moft bold enterprize, which was yet a 
 mark rather of defpair than courage. He appointed a day to thdfe of Iiis party 
 
1.20 
 
 Travels in India. PartlL 
 
 to force the Palace., and after they had put all the Royal Family to the Sword, to 
 proclaim him King of Arakan. But this Plot being difcover'd the day it fhouJd 
 have been executed, Sultan Sujah, and Sultan Bangue, his Son, had no other way 
 to lave themfelves, but by flight into the Kingdom of Pegu. Eut their way lying, 
 over Mountains almoft impaflable, and through thick Forrefts full of Tigers and 
 Lions, and being alfo clofely purfu'd_, their flight avail'd them little or nothing.: 
 Sultan Bangue however being behind, to keep the Purfuers in play while his Fa- 
 ther and his Family gain'd ground, ftoutly defended himfelf againft the firft Af- 
 failants, but at length being overpower'd by number, he was taken together with 
 his two little Brothers, his Mother and his Sifters ; who were all put in Prifon,. 
 where they were very ill-us'd. But fome time after, the King having a defire to 
 marry theeldeft Sifter of Sultan Bangue, they had a little more liberty allow'd 
 them. However they enjoy'd it not long, for the young Prince being of a tur- 
 bulent and ambitious fpirit, plotted new treafons againft the King, which being 
 difcover'd, the King immediately caus'd the whole Family to be put to death, not 
 (paring the young Princefs his Wife, though fhe were big with Child. 
 
 As for Sultan Sujah,. who was formoft among thole that fled, it is moft generally 
 thought that either he was llain by the Souldiers who were fent to apprehend 
 him, or that he was torn in pieces by the Tigers and Lions ; of which thole For- 
 feits are full. 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Of the beginning of Aurcng zcbV Reign, and the T)eath of Cba-jehan 
 
 his Father. ft 
 
 SOme days before he afcended the Throne, he lent to his Father to lend him 
 lome of his Jewels, to the end he might appear before his people with the 
 lame magnificence as his Predeceflors had done. Cha-jehan taking this requeft 
 of his Sons for an affront put upon him in Prifon, fell into fuch a rage that he con- 
 tinu'd mad for fome days, and had like to have dy'd upon it. In the excels of his 
 vexation he call'd leveral times for a Morter and a Peftle, threatning to beat all his 
 Jewels to powder, before his Son Ihould have them. But Begum-Sabeb, his eldeft 
 Daughter, never forfook him, throwing her felf at his feet, and by vertue of that 
 criminal power which Ihe had over him, as being both his Daughter and his 
 Wife, kept him from ufing that extremity; more out of a defign to preferve the 
 Jewels for her felf, than for her Brother, to whom fhe had always been a mortal 
 enemy. For this reafon, when Aureng-z.eb afcended the Throne, he had no more 
 than one Jewel upon his Bonnet : This Bonnet cannot be call'd a Crown j and by 
 confequence neither can the Ceremony be call'd a Coronation. 
 
 At the time that Aureng-z,eb took pofleflion of the Throne, he would not eat 
 any wheaten-bread, nor meat, nor filh, but fed upon barly-bread, herbs and (weet- 
 meats, which was a kind of Penance that he impos'd upon himfelf for ib many 
 crimes. 
 
 When Aureng-z.eb was fettl'd in the Empire, feveral EmbalTadors came to feba- 
 nabat to congratulate him, on the behalf of the Kings their Matters, as from the 
 King of the Vsbecl^Tartars, the Sheriff* of Mecca, the Prince of Balfara, and the 
 Kings of Arabia Felix, and Ethiopia. The Hollanders alfo fent Menbeir Adrican t 
 chief of their Factory in Surat, who was kindly receiv'd, and firft difpatch'd. For 
 'tis a piece of State, to keep the EmbalTadors a good while at Court before they 
 have Audience. All thefe EmbalTadors prefented Aureng-z.eb with the rarities of 
 their Countrey ; who to get himfelf a good name in Afia, lent them away very 
 well fatisfi'd. 
 
 Some months before the death of Cba-jeban, Aureng-z.eb lent an Embaflador 
 into Perjia, who was magnificently receiv'd. For a month together he was nothing 
 but feafted and carefs'd with all manner of divertifements. The day that he was 
 
 to 
 
Book II. 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 121 
 
 to make his Prefent from the Great Mogul, the King of Perjia fate upon his 
 Throne in a moll magnificent habit ; and having receiv'd the Embafiador's Prc- 
 fent,he prefently divided it in contempt among theOfficers of hisHoufe 5 only keep- 
 ing for himfelf a Diamond that weigh'd fixty Carats. Some few days after he call'd. 
 for the Embaffador, and after fome difcourle,he ask'd him if he were of the Seel: of 
 thcTnrks ? To which the Embalfador returning an anfwer,and leting fome words fall 
 againft//W/,theKing ask'd him what his name was. ? He reply'd x\utCha-jeban had 
 given him theName of Baubec-ka?i 3 \\\a.x. \s 3 Lord of a free beart-^nd had honour'd him 
 with one of the chief employments at Court. Then th'art a Villain,reply'd the King 
 of Perfiz, with an angry countenance, to defert thy Sovereign in his neceflity, 
 having receiv'd fo many favours from him, aud to lerve a Tyrant, that keeps his 
 Father in Prifon, and has malTacr'd all his Brothers. How dares he, purfu'd the 
 King, take upon him the arrogant Title of Alem-guir Anreng-jhz, or King of all 
 the World, who never conquer'd any thing, "but polfefles all he has by treachery 
 and parricide ? Halt thou been one of thole that counfell'd him to fhed 16 much 
 blood, to be the Executioner of his Brothers, and to keep his Father in Prifon ? 
 Thou art not worthy to wear a Beard ; and with that immediately caus'd it to be 
 fhav'd off ; which is the greateft indignity that can be put upon a man in that 
 Countrey. Shortly after he commanded the Embalfador to return home, fending 
 along with him for a Prefent ro Aureng-z.eb 3 an hunder'd and fifty beautiful Horfes, 
 with a great quantity of Gold and Silver-Carpets, Cloath of Gold, rich Shafhes^ 
 and other Stuffs, to a vaft value. When Baubec-k*n was come back to Agra, 
 where the King then was, Aureng-z^cb incens'd at the affront which the Sophi of 
 Perfiahzd giv'n him in the perfon of his Embalfador, he took the Horfes and fenc 
 fome of them into the great Piaz.z.a, others to the corners of the Streets, caufing 
 it to be proclaim'd that the followers of Holy could not ride thole Horfes without 
 being Nigss, that is to lay, unclean, as coming from a King that did not obey the 
 true Law. After that he caus'd the Horfes to be kilfd, and all the reft of the 
 Prefent to be burnt j uttering many reproachful words againft the King of Perfia 3 
 with whom he was mortally offended. 
 
 At length Cba-jeban happ'ning to dye toward the end of the year 1666. 
 Aareng-7-eb found himfelf rid of an objedt that every hour reproach'd his Tyran- 
 ny; and began to enjoy himfelf with more delight. Soon after he receiv'd his 
 Sifter Begnm-Saheb into favour, reftoring to her all her Governments, and giving 
 her the Name of Cba-Begnm, that is to fay, Princefs Queen. The truth is, fhe is 
 a Woman of prodigious parts, and able to govern the whole Empire. And had 
 her Father and Brothers taken her counlel at the beginning of the War, Aureng- 
 z,eb had never been King. As for Raucbenara Begum his Sifter, fne had always 
 taken his fide, and when Ihe heard he had taken Arms, Ihe lent him all the Gold 
 and Silver Ihe could procure. In recompence whereof he promis'd her, when he 
 came to be King, to give her the Title of Chz-Begum, and that Ihe Ihould fit up- 
 on a Throne : in all which he was as good as his word ; and they continu'd very 
 loving together till I was laft at Genanabat : but then they were not fb good 
 friends, upon this occafion. The Princefs having cunningly ftoll'n into her Apart- 
 ment a handfom young fellow, could not fo privately let him out again after fhe 
 had quite tir'd him 5 but the King was advertiz'd thereof. Thereupon the Prin- 
 cefs, to prevent the fhame and reproach, ran to the King in a great pretended 
 fright, and told him that there was a man got into the Haram, even to her very 
 Chamber, and that his intention was certainly either to have kilfd or robb'd her : 
 that fuch a thing was never feen j that it concern'd the fafety of his Royal Perfon, 
 and that he would do well to punifh feverely the Eunuchs that kept guard that 
 night. Prefently the King ran in perfon with a great number of Eunuchs, fo that 
 the poor young man had no way to efcape but by leaping out of a window into 
 .the River that runs by the Palace-walls ; whereupon a world of people ran out to 
 feize him ; the King commanding them to do him no harm, but to carry him to 
 the Officer of Juitice : However he has been not heard of ever fince that time. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
122 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Partn 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 
 Of the 'Preparations againfi the Feaft of the Great Mogul, when he 
 is weigtid folemnly every -year. Of the richnefs of his Thrones^ 
 and the Magnificence of his Court, 
 
 THis great Feaft begins the fourth of November, and lafts five days. They 
 ufually weigh the King at the time of his Birth ; and if he weighs more 
 than he did the year before, there is great rejoicing. When he is weigh'd he 
 feats himfelf upon the richeft of his Thrones ; and then all the Grandees of 
 the Kingdom come to congratulate and prefent him. The Ladies of the Court 
 fend him their Prefects alfo, as likewife do the Governours o< Provinces, and 
 others in great Emplovments. The Prefents con fift of Jewel?, "iffues, Carpetts 
 and other Stuffs ; beiides Camels, Elephants, Horfes, and indeec any thing that 
 is rare and of value. 'Tis faid he receives that day thirty Millions of Livres. 
 
 They begin to prepare for this Feaft the feventh of September, about two 
 Months before it begins. The firft thing they do, is to cover the two great 
 Courts overhead, from the middle of each Court to the Hall, which is open 
 upon three fides. The Pavilions that cover thefe two void places, are of Pur- 
 ple Velvet, Embroider'd with Gold, and fo weighty, that the Pofts which fuftain 
 them are as big as the Maft of a Ship ; fome thirty, fome forty foot high. 
 There are thirty-eight of thefe Pofts to uphold the Tent in the firft Court j 
 and thofe next the Hall, are plated with Gold as thick as a Ducket. The reft 
 are plated with Silver of the fame thicknefs. The Cords are of Cotton of divers 
 colours $ fome of them as big as a good Cable. 
 
 The firft Court is furrounded with Portico's and little Chambers, where the 
 Omrahs keep Guard. For every eight days the Omrahs relieve the Guard 5 
 and during thole eight davs, the Omrah who is upon the Guard, has a Difh of 
 Meat out of the Kings Kitchin. When he fees it coming afar off, he makes 
 three obeyfances, laying his hand three times upon the Ground, and three times 
 upon his Head, crying out at the fume time, God preferve the Kings health, 
 give him long Life and Victory over his Enemies. They take it for a great 
 Honour to Guard the King; and when they go upon the Guard, they put on 
 all their moft fumptuous Apparel ; and their Horfes , Camels , and Elephants 
 are all richly adorn'd. Some of the Camels carry a {mall Piece of Ordinance, 
 with a man behind to fhoot it off. The meaneft of thefe Omrahs commands 
 a thoufand Horfe $ but if he be a Prince of the Blood, he commands fix thou- 
 fand. 
 
 The Great Mogul has feven Thrones, fome fet all over with Diamonds j others 
 with Rubies, Emraulds, and Pearls. 
 
 The largeft Throne, which is fet up in the Hall of the firft Court, is in form 
 like one of our Field-Beds, fix foot Jong, and four broad. The Cufhion at the 
 back is round like a Bolfter j the Cufhions on the fides are flat. 
 
 I counted about a hundred and eight pale Rubies in Collets , about this 
 Throne, the leaft whereof weigh'd a hundred Carats j but there are fome that 
 weigh two hundred. Emraulds I counted about a hundred and fixty, that weigh'd 
 fome threefcore, fome thirty Carats. 
 
 The under-part of the Canopy is all embroider'd with Pearls and Diamonds, 
 with a Fringe of Pearls round about. Upon the top of the Canopy, which is 
 made like an Arch with four Panes, ftands a Peacock, with his Tail fpread, 
 confifting all of Saphirs, and other proper colour'd Stones $ the Body is of bea- 
 ten Gold, enchas'd with feveral Jewels ; and a great Ruby upon his breaft, at 
 which hangs a Pearl, that weighs fifty Carats. On each fide of the Peacock 
 ftand two Nofe-gays, as high as the Bird, confifting of feveral forts of Flowers, 
 all of beaten Gold enamel'd. When the King feats himfelf upon the Throne, 
 there is a tranfparent Jewel, with a Diamond Appendant, of eighty or ninety 
 Carats, encompafs'd with Rubies and Emraulds, fo hung that it is always in his 
 
 Eye. 
 
Book II Travels in India. 
 
 Eye. The twelve Pillars alfo that uphold the Canopy, are fet with rows of 
 fair Pearl, round, and of an excellent Water, that weigh from fix to ten- Ca- 
 rats apiece. At the diftance of four feet, upon each fide of the Throne, are 
 plac'd two Pairafbls, or Umbrello's, the handles whereof are about eight foot 
 high, cover'd with Diamonds ; the Parafols themfelves are of crimlbn Velvet, 
 embroider'd and fring'd with Pearls. 
 
 This is the famous Throne which Tamerlane began , and Cha-jehan finifh'd ; 
 which is really reported to have coft a hundred and fixty Millions, and five 
 hundred- thoufand Livres of our Money. 
 
 Behind' this ftately and magnificent Throne there is another left, in the form 
 of a Tub, where the King bathes himfelf j it is an Oval, feven foot long, and 
 five broad. The outfide whereof fhines all over with Diamonds and Pearls ♦ 
 but there is no Canopy over it, , 
 
 Coming into the firft Court, on the right hand, you fee a particular Tent,, 
 where during all the Feaft, the Morice-Dancers are appointed to make fporr, 
 While the King fits upon his Throne. On the left hand is another Tent, appointed 
 tor the principal Officers of the Army and Houfhold. 
 
 In the fame Court, while the King fits upon his Throne, are to be feen thirty 
 Horfes, fifteen upon one fide, and fifteen upon the other, lead by two men. 
 Their Bridles are very fhort, but for the moft part enrich'd with Diamonds, 
 Rubies, Emraulds, and Pearls, the Bits whereof are of pure Gold. Every Horfe 
 wears between his Ears a rich Plume of Fe athers, with a little Cufhion upon 
 his Back, ty'd on with a Surcingle; both being embroider'd with Gold ; and 
 about his Neck hung fome fair Jewel , which was either a Diamond , a 
 Ruby, or an Emrauld. The worft of thofe Horfes coft three thoufand, fome 
 five thoufand Crowns ; and fome th ere were, that were never bought under 
 ten thoufand, The young Prince, who was between feven and eight years old, 
 rode upon a Horfe no higher than a good big Greyhound, but very well 
 ftiap'd. 
 
 About an hour after the King has bin fitting upon his Throne,feven ftout Elephants 
 bred up for War, are brought out. One of thofe Elephants has his Seat fix'd 
 upon his back, if the King fhould have a mind to ride out. The others are 
 cover'd with Cloaths richly embroider'd, with Chains of Gold and Silver about 
 their Necks j and there are four that carry the Kings Standard upon their Crup- 
 pers, faften d to a Half-Pike, which a man feated on purp'ofe clofe by, holds 
 upright with his hand. Thefe Elephants are brought within fifty paces of the 
 Throne, and when they come before the King, they make their obeyfances to' 
 him, laying their Trunks to the ground, and then lifting them up above their 
 Heads three times ; every time he makes a great cry, and then turning his 
 back to the King, one of the Leaders turns up the CI oath, that the King may 
 lee he is in good cafe. There belongs afro to every one a Cord, which is put 
 round his body, to fhew how much he is grown fince the Iaft year. The firft 
 of thefe Elephants, which the King moft efteems, is a great furious Creature, 
 that has five hundred Roupies allow'd him every month. He is fed with good 
 Victuals, and a great quantity of Sucre, and they give him Aqua-vit& to drink. 
 When the King rides forth upon his Elephant, the Omrahs follow on Horfeback, 
 And when' he rides on Horfeback, the Omrahs follow him on' foot. . 
 
 After the King has feen his Elephants, he rifes up^ and goes into his Haram 
 through a little oval door behind the Throne. 
 
 The five other Thrones are fet up in another magnificent Hall in another 
 Court, all cover'd over with Diamonds, without any colour'd Stone. 
 
 When the King has ftaid about half an hour, he comes out again, attended 
 by three or four Eunuchs, and feats himfelf in the other Hall, upon the middle- . 
 moft, of the five Thrones, where the Omrahs come, as long as the five days of 
 the Feflival raft, and make their Prefents to him. 
 
 G H A P t 
 
124 Travels in India. Part. II. 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 Soffle other Observations upon the Court of the Great Mogul. 
 
 AFter Aweng-z,eb had fetled himfelf in the Empire, which he ufurp'd from 
 his Father and his Brothers, he impos'd upon himfelf a very fevere penance, 
 eating nothing but Pulfe and Sweet-meats, which has made him very meagre 
 and lean. All the time the Comet lafted in the year 1 66$-, which appear'd 
 very great in the Indies, where I then was,, Aureng-z,eb drank nothing but Wa- 
 ter, and eat nothing but Bread made of Millet j which fo impair d his health, 
 that it had like to have coft him his life. Befides, he always lay upon the. 
 ground, only with a Tigers Skin under him j fince which time he has never been 
 perfectly well. 
 
 I few him drink three feveral times, while he fate upon his Throne 3 to which 
 purpofr he had brought him a large Cup of Chriftal of the Rock, round and all 
 of a piece, with a Gold Cover, enrich'd with Diamonds, Pubies, and Emraulds, 
 the foot thereof being of the fame. But no perfon fees the King eat, only his 
 Wives and his Eunuchs. And it is but very rarely that ht goes to Dine or 
 Sup with any of his Subjects. When I was laft in India, Giafer-Kan, who was 
 his Grand Vifier^ and his Uncle by marriage of his Wife, invited the King to 
 fee a new Palace which he was building, who went accordingly, and it was the 
 greateft Honour his Majefty could do him ; in retaliation whereof Giafer-Kan 
 and his Wife prefented him with Jewels, Elephants, Camels, Horles, and other 
 things, to the value of a Million and fifty thoufand Livres of our Money. For 
 Giafer-Kan s Wife is the moft magnificent and liberal Woman in all India, and 
 fpends more her felf than all the Kings Wives and Daughters, which makes 
 her Husband in debt, though he be almoft Lord of all the Empire. 
 
 When the King is cwried in his Vallehi to the Mofquee , one of his Sons 
 follows him a Horfeback, and all his Omrahs and Officers of his Houfhold come 
 behind him a foot. Thofe that are Mahumctans ftay for him at the top df 
 the afcent to the Mofquee, and when he is ready to come out, they march 
 before him to the Gate of his Palace. Eight Elephants always go before the 
 King, to every one of which belong two men ; one to lead the Elephant, and 
 the other, who fits upon his back, carries a Standard fi/d to a Half-Pike. The 
 other four carry Seats or Thrones upon their backs, the one fquare, the other 
 round ; one cover'd, the other inclos'd with Glafs of feveral fafhions. When 
 the King goes abroad, he has ufually five or fix hundred men to attend him 
 for his Guard, arm'd every one with a kind of an Half-Pike. To the heads of 
 their Pikes they tye two Squibs crofs-wife, about a foot long, and as big as 
 a mans Arm, Which will carry the Half-Pike five hundred paces. The King 
 is alfo attended by three or four hundred Mufquateers j but they are very 
 Cowards, and hardly know how to fhoot off their pieces. He has alfo a cer- 
 tain number of Cavalry, which are Soldiers much alike. A hundred Europeans 
 might well beat a thoufand Indians ; but they would hardly accuftom them- 
 felves to live fuch fober lives. For as well the Horfe as the Infantry will live 
 upon Meal kneaded with Water and brown Sugar; but in the evening, when 
 they have convenience, they make Quicbcry, which is Rice boil'd in Water and 
 Salt, with a Grain fb calPd. When they eat it, they ftir it with the 
 ends of their FingersJn melted Butter, which is the ufual food of the Sol- 
 diers andLpoor people. Befide, the heat would kill our Souldiers, who would 
 never be able to endure the Sun all the day long, as the Indians do. By the 
 way, give me leave to tell you, that the Country people have no other cloath- 
 ing than a piece of Linnen to hide their fecret parts, being miferably poor ; 
 for if their Governours know they have any thing about thera, they feize it 
 either as their right, or by force. There are fome Provinces in India that 
 lye waite, the Natives being fore'd to fly, by reafon of the cruelty of their 
 Governours. Under the pretence of being Mahometans they perfecute the poor 
 
 ( 
 
 i » 
 
Book IX. Travels in India. 125 
 
 Idolaters beyond all meafure ; and if any of them embrace Mahumetifm, 'tis only 
 becaufe they would not work any longer. For then they turn Souldiers or Faquirs, 
 who are a fort of people that profels a renunciation of the World, and Jive upon 
 Alms, but are indeed very Rafcals. They reckon that there are in India 800000 
 of thefe Mahometan Faquirs, and twelve hunder'd-thouiand Idolaters, 
 
 Once in fifteen days the King goes a Hunting, mounted upon his Elephant, and 
 fo continues during the chafe. All the Game he takes is brought within Musket- 
 fhot of his Elephants. Which confifts generally of Lions, Tigers, Harts, and wild- 
 Goats. For they will not meddle with Boars, as being Mahumetans. When he 
 returns home, he puts himfelf into his Pal/ekJ, and goes in the' fame order, and 
 with the fame Guard, as when he returns from the Mofquee, laving that when he 
 goes a Hunting, he is attended with three or four-hunder'd Horfemen, that ride 
 without any discipline in the World. 
 
 As for the PrincelTes, as well the Wives, Daughters and Sifters of the King, 
 they neVer ftir out of the Palace, unlefs it be to Ipend a few days in the Countrey 
 for their pleafure. Some of them go abroad, but very rarely,to vifit fome great 
 Noble-mens Wives, as the Wife of Giafer-Kan, who is the King's Aunt. But that 
 js only by particular leave of the King. And then it is not the cuftom as ki Perjia, 
 where the Ladies make their vifits only by night, and with a great number of 
 Eunuchs, who clear the Streets of all people they meet. For in the Mogul's 
 Court, they ufually go out about nine in the morning, with only three or four 
 Eunuchs, and ten or twelve Slaves, which are inftead of Maids of Honour. 
 
 The PrincelTes are carri'd in Pallets cover'd over with Embroider d Tapeftry, 
 and a little Coach to hold one fingle perfon that follows the Pallekj, drawn by 
 two men, the wheels not being above a foot in diameter. The reafon why they 
 carry that Coach along with them, is, becaufe that when the PrincelTes arrive at 
 the Houfe where they intend to alight, the men that carry the Palleki, not being 
 permitted to go any farther than the firft Gate,they then take their Coaches,and are 
 drawn by their female-Slaves to the Womens Apartment. I have alfo obferv'd, 
 that in all the Honfes of great Noble-men, the Womens Apartment is at the far- 
 ther-end of all. So that you muft crofs two or three great Courts, and a Garden 
 or two, before you can come at it. 
 
 When the PrincelTes are married to any of the Court-Grandees, they become 
 abfolute MiftrelTes of their Husbands ; fo that if they ftudy not to pleafe them, 
 and do not as they would have them, in regard of their free accefs to the King, 
 they over-rule the King many times to their prejudice, even to the turning them 
 out of their employments. 
 
 As it is a cuftom that the firft-born always is Heir to the Throne, though he be 
 the Son of a Slave, fo foon as the PrincelTes of the King's Haram perceive that 
 there is any one among them big with Child,they ufe all the artifices imaginable to 
 make them mhcarry. Infomuch that being at Patna in the year 1666, Cha-Efl- 
 Katfs Chirurgeon affur'd me, that the Wife of Cha-Efi-Ran had procur'd the 
 mifcarrying of eight Women, becaufe (he would fuffer no other Womens Children 
 but her own. 
 
 Chap. 
 
126 
 
 Travels in India. Part II 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Of the Commodities which are brought as well out of the 'Dominions 
 of the Great Mogul, as out of the Kingdoms of Golconda and Vifa- 
 pour, and other neighbouring Territories. 
 
 TT will be neceflary for the Reader to take notice what I have already faid con- 
 cerning the Weights and Meafures in ufe among the Indians, where I (poke con- 
 • cerning the Mines, and the Serre. Now for the Cobit. 
 
 The Cobit is a meafure for all Commodities that are meafur'd by the Ell of 
 which there are feveral forts., as in Europe there are feveral forts of Ells. The 
 Cobit is divided into 24 Tafots : and in regard the greateft part of the Commo- 
 dities of India are utter'd at Surat. I have given you a defcription in the margin 
 of the fourth part of a Sarat-Cobit, divided into fix Tafots, 
 
 ' Of their Silk.. 
 
 KAfembafar, a Village in the Kingdom of Bengala, fends abroad every year 
 two and twenty-thoufand Bales of Silk 5 every Bale weighing a hunder'd 
 pound. The two and twenty Bales make two millions and two-hunder'd-thoufand 
 pound, at fixteen ounces to the pound. The Hollanders ufually carry away fix or 
 feven-thoufand Bales,and would carry away more,did not the Merchants of Tartary t 
 and the Mogul's Empire oppofe them : for they buy up as much as the Hollander * 
 the reft the Natives keep to make their Stuffs. This Silk is all brought into the 
 Kingdom of Guz.erat, the greateft part whereof comes to Amadabat, and to Suras 
 where it is wrought up. 
 
 In the firft place they make Carpets of Silk and Gold, others of Silk and 
 Silver, others all of Silk : For the Worfted- Carpets are made at Vettapour, fome 
 twelve leagues from A^ra. 
 
 In the fecond place they make Satins with ftreaks of Gold and Silver ; others 
 plain : with Taffata's after the fame fafhion. 
 
 In the third place they make Patoles, which are a fort of Silk-Huff very thin 
 but painted with all forts of Flowers, the manufacture whereof is at Amadabat, 
 They coft from eight Roupies to forty the piece. This is a Commodity wherein 
 the Dutch will not fuffer any one of the Hollanders to trade in particular : for 
 they tranfport it to the Philippine-Iflands, to the Iilands of Borneo, fava, Sumatra, 
 and other neighbouring Iflands. 
 
 The raw-Silk of Kajembafar is yellowifh, as are all the raw-Silks that come from 
 Per fm and Sicily ■, but the Natives of Kafembafar have a way to whiten ir, with 
 a Lye made of the afhes of a Tree which they call Adam's Fig-tree ; which 
 makes it as white as the Paleftine-SWk. The Hollanders fend away all their Mer- 
 chandize which they fetch out of Bengala, by water, through a great Canal that 
 runs from Kafembafar into Ganges, for fifteen leagues together ; from whence 
 it is as far by water down the Ganges to Ouguely, where they lade their Ships. 
 
 Of the Calicut s : and firfl of the painted Calicut s, call'd Chitcs. 
 
 CHites or Painted Calicuts, which they call Calmendar, that is to fay, done with 
 a Pencil, are made in the Kingdom of Golconda ; and particularly about 
 Mappatan. But there is made fo little, that though a man mould employ all 
 the Workmen that underftand the art of weaving Calicuts, he would hardly 
 find enough to make three Bales. 
 
 The Chites which are made in the Empire of the Great Mogul are all Printed j 
 and nothing fo beautiful, neither for the figures nor the finenefs of the Linnen. 
 Thofe which are made at Lahor, are the coarfeft, and confequently the cheapeft of 
 aH. They are fold by Gorges, every Corge confifting of twenty pieces, which cpft 
 from 16 to 30 Roupies. 
 
 The 
 
Book II. 
 
 Travels In India. 
 
 12 
 
 The Chites which are made at Seronge, are fold from 20 to 50 Roupies the 
 Corge, or thereabouts. 
 
 Thefe Chites ferve for Coverlets for Beds, for Sofra's or Table-cloaths after the 
 Countrey-fafhion., Pillowbears., Handkerchiefs, but more efpecially for Waftcoats 
 as well for the men as women in Ferjia. 
 
 The fine C&\\Qut-Chites are made at Brampottr 5 and are us'd for handkerchiefs 
 by thofe that fnufF Tobacco. 
 
 The women alfo, over all Afia, make Veils of thefe Calicuts, to wear over their 
 . heads, and about their moulders, which Veils are call'd Ormis. 
 
 The Baftds or Calicuts painted red^ blue, and black, are carri'd white to Agra, 
 and Amadabat, in regard thofe Cities are neareft to the places where the Indigo is 
 made that is us'd in colouring. They coft from two Roupies to 30 or 40 a-piece, 
 according to the finenefs and the quantity of Gold at the ends, and fometimes up- 
 on the fides. The Indians have a way to dip fome of thefe Calicuts in a certain 
 water that makes - them look like Water'd-Chamlets, which adds alfo to the 
 price. 
 
 That fort which is fold for two Roupies, and fo onward till ye come to twelve, 
 is tranfported to the Coaft of Meliuda 3 and it is the greateft Trade the Governour 
 of Mozambique drives, who fells them to the Cafres, that vend them again among 
 the Abyffms, and into the Kingdom of Saba : for thole people not undemanding 
 the ufe of Soap, need no more but only to warn thefe Calicuts in water. That 
 fort which is valu'd from 12 Roupies upward, is tranfported to the Philippine- 
 lilands, the Iflands of Borneo, fava, Sumatra, and other adjacent places. Where 
 the women wear no other clothes, than a fingle piece of this Calicut. One part 
 whereof, without cutting it, ferves for a Petticoat the other they wind about 
 their ftomachs and their heads. 
 
 White Calicuts. 
 
 \ 7"\ rHite Calicuts come partly from Agra, and about Lahor, part from Ben- 
 V V gala : fome from Bmtda, Barocbe, Renonfari, and other places. They 
 are brought out of the Loom to Renonfari, and Baroche, where they are whiten'd 
 by reafon of the convenience of their Meadows, and the great Itore of Limons 
 that grow thereabouts. For the Calicuts are never fo white as they lhould be, 
 till they are dipt in Limon-water. 
 
 The Calicuts that come from Agra, Lahor,. and Bengala, are fold by the Corge, 
 and they are of feveral prices, from feventecn Roupies to three or four-hunder'd, 
 as the Merchant will have them wov'n. 
 
 The Calicuts that come from Renonfari, and Baroche, are one and twenty cubits 
 long, new out of the Loom but in the whitening they fhrink to twenty cu- 
 bits. 
 
 Thole of Brouda twenty cubits from the Loom, and fhrink in the whitening to 
 nineteen and a half. 
 
 All the Calicuts or Baftds that come from thefe three Cities, are of two forts : 
 for fome are broad, fome are narrow. The narrow are thofe I have already men- 
 tion'd, the prices whereof are various, from two Mamoad?s to fix. 
 
 The broad Baftds are a cubit, and one third part wide j the whole piece twenty 
 cubits long. The ufual price of them is from five Mamoudi's to twelve : but a 
 Merchant being upon the place, may caufe them to be made much more large and 
 fine, till they are worth five-hunder'd Mamoudi's a-piece. I faw two pieces Ibid 
 for a thoufand Mamoudi's. 
 
 The Englijh bought one, and the Hollanders another, each piece containing eight 
 and twenty cubits. 
 
 Mahamed Alibeg returning into Ferfia out of India where he had been Em- 
 baffador, prefented Cha-Sef the fecond with a Coco-nut, about the bignefs of an 
 Auftrich-egg, all befet with Pearls : and when it was open'd there was taken, out 
 of it a Turbant that had fixty cubits of Calicut in length to make ir, the Cloath be- 
 ing fo fine,that you could hardly feel it in your hapd. For they will fpin their thread 
 fo fine, that the eye can hardly difcern it, or at lealt it feems to be but a Cob-, 
 web. 
 
 Twifted 
 
128 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Part. II 
 
 Twifled-Cotton. 
 
 COtton twifted and untwifted comes from the Provinces of Bramponr and Gu- 
 z^erat. Untwifted Cotton is never tranfported into Europe 3 being too cum- 
 berfome, and of little value ; only they fend it to Ormns 3 Baljara, and fometimes 
 to the Philippine-Wands, and the Iflands of Snide. As for the twifted Cottons, 
 the EngHJh and Hollanders tranfport a good quantity, not of the fineft, but of that 
 fort which is priz'd from fifteen to fifty Mamoudis : It ferves for wieks for Can- 
 dles, for Packladdles, and for the ground of Silk-ftuffs. 
 
 Jndigo. 
 
 INdigo comes from feveral parts of the Great Mogul's Empire; and according 
 to the diverfity of the places it differs in quality, and confequently in price. 
 In the firft place, it comes from the Territories of Biana,.Indona, and Cor [a, a 
 day or rwo's journey from Agra : which is efteem'd the beft of all. It is made 
 alfo eight days journey from Surat, in a Village calPd Sarqecfs, two leagues 
 diftance from Amadabat. Here the flat Indigo is made. There is alfo Indigo lit- 
 tle inferior in goodnefs and price, which comes from the King of Golconda's Ter- 
 ritories. The Ms in of Surat, which contains 42 Serre^s, or 34 and a half of our 
 pounds, is valu'd from to 20 Roupies. They make as good as this at Baroche. 
 That which is made up about Agra is made up in half Balls, and is the moft fought 
 fox in all India. It is fold by the Mein, which in thofe places contains 60 Serres, 
 or j 1 and three quarters of our pounds. The ufual price is from 36 to 40 Rou- 
 pies. There grows alfo Indico fome 36 leagues from Brampour, about a great 
 Village call'd Raout, and round about the neighbouring Towns in the road to Surat : 
 Of which the Natives ufually make above a hunder'd-thoufand Roupies. 
 
 There comes Indigo alfo from Bengala, which the //is>//<W-Company tranfports 
 for M.ifiipatan. But they buy this Indigo, and that of Brampour and Amadabat , 
 cheaper by 24 in the hunder'd, than that of Agra. 
 
 Indigo is made of an Herb which they fow every year after the rains are over : 
 which when it is grown up, is very like our Hemp. They cut it three times a 
 year; firft when it is about two or three foot high 5 and they cut it within half 
 a foot of the ground ; the firft cutting far exceeds the two latter. The frcond 
 cutting is worfe than the firft by ten or twelve in the hunder'd, and the third 
 worfe than the fecond by twelve in the hunder'd. The difference is found 
 by breaking a piece of" the Pafte, and obferving the colour. The colour of 
 that Indigo which is made of the firft cutting, is a Violet-blue, but more brisk 
 and lively than the two others: and that which is made of the fecond is more 
 lively than the third. 
 
 When they have cut the Herb, they throw it into Pits which they make with 
 Lime, which becomes fo hard, that you would judg it to be one intire piece of 
 Marble. They are generally fourfcore or a hunder'd paces in circuit ; and being 
 half full of water, they fill them quite up with the Herb. Then they bruife and 
 jumble it in the water till the leaf, for the ftalk is worth nothing, become like a 
 kind of thick mud. This being done, they let it fettle for fome days ; and when 
 thefctling is all at the bottom, and the water clear above, they let out all the 
 water. When the water is all drain'd out, they fill feveral baskets with this flime, 
 and in a plain Field you fhall fee feveral men at work, every one at his own baf- 
 ket, making up little pieces of Indigo flat at the bottom, at the top fharp like an 
 £gg. Though at Amadabat they make their pieces quite flat like a fmall cake. 
 Here you are to take particular notice, that the Merchants, becaufe they would 
 not pay cuftom for an unneceffary weight, before they tranfport their Indigo out 
 of JSjia into Europe, are very careful to caufe it to be lifted, to feparate the duft 
 from it; which they (ell afterwards to the Natives of thevCountrey to dye their 
 Calicuts. They that fift this Indigo muft be careful to keep a Linnen-cloath be- 
 fore their faces, and that their noftrils be well-ftopt, leaving only two little holes 
 for their eyes. Befides., they muft every half hour be fure to drink milk, which 
 }$ a great prefervative againft the piercing quality of the duft. Yet notwith- 
 standing 
 
Book II. Travels in India. 129 
 
 Handing all this caution, they that have fifted Indigo for nine or ten days, fhall 
 fpit nothing but blew for a good while together. Once I laid an Egg in the 
 morning among the fifters, and when I came to break it in the evening it was 
 all blew within. 
 
 As they take the Pafte out of the Baskets with their Fingers dipt in Oil, and 
 make it into Lumps, or Cakes they lay them in the Sun to dry. Which is the 
 reafon that when the Merchants buy Indigo, they burn fome peices of it, to try 
 whether there be any duft among it. For the Natives who take the Pafte oup 
 of the Baskets to make it into Lumps, lay it in the Sand, which mixes with the 
 Pafte, and fouls it. But when the Merchants burn it, the Indigo turns to Afhes, 
 and the Sand remains. The Governours do what they can to make the Natives 
 leave their Knavery 5 but notwithftanding all their care,, there will be fome de^ 
 ceit. 
 
 Salt-Peter. 
 
 GReat ftore of Salt-Peter comes from Agra and Patna ; but the refin'd cofts 
 three times more than that which is not. The Hollanders have let up a 
 Ware-Houfe fourteen Leagues above Patna, and when their Salt-Peter is re- 
 find, they tranfport it by Water by Ogtteli. A Mein of refin'd Salt-Peter is worth 
 feven Mamoudi's. 
 
 Spice. 
 
 CArdamom, Ginger, Pepper, Nutmegs, Nutmeg-Flowers, Cloves and Cinna- 
 mon, are all the different forts of Spices known to us. I put Cardamom 
 and Ginger in the firft place, becaufe that Cardamom grows in the Territories 
 of Fifapour, and Ginger in the Dominions of the Great Mogul. And as for 
 other Spices, they are brought from other Foreign parts to Surat, which is the 
 grand Mart. 
 
 Cardamom is the moft excellent of all other Spices, but it is very fcarce § 
 and in regard there is no great ftore in the place where it grows, it is only 
 made ufe of in Afia, at the Tables of great Princes. Five hundred pound of 
 Cardamoms, are priz'd from a hundred to a hundred and ten Reals. 
 
 Ginger is brought in great quantities from Amadabat, where there grows 
 more than in any other part of Afia 5 and it is hardly to be imagin'd how much 
 there is tranfported candited into Foreign parts. 
 
 Pepper is of two forts. There is a fort which is very fmall, another fort 
 much bigger j both which forts are diftinguifh'd into fmall and great Pepper^ 
 The larger fort comes from the Coaft of Malavare ; and Tuticorin and Calient 
 are the Cities where it is brought up. Some of this Pepper comes from the 
 Territories of the King of Vifapour, being vended at Rejapour, a little City in 
 that Kingdom. The Hollanders that purchafe it of the Malavares, do not give 
 Money for it, but feveral forts of Commodities in Exchange $ as Cotton, Opium, 
 Vermillion, and Qyickfilver $ and this is the Pepper which is brought into Eu- 
 rope. As for the little Pepper that comes from Bantam, Afchen, and fome other 
 parts toward the Eaft, there is none of it carried out of Afia, where it is (pent 
 in vaft quantities, efpecially among the Mahometans. For there are double the 
 Grains of" fmall Pepper in one pound, to what there are of the great Pepper $ 
 befides that the great Pepper is hotter in the mouth. 
 
 The little Pepper that comes to Surat, has been fold fome years for thir- 
 teen or fourteen Mamoudi's the Mein j and fo much I have feen the Englijh 
 give for it, to tranfport it to Ormus, Balfara, and the Red Sea, As for the 
 great Pepper which the Hollanders fetch from the Coaft of Malavare-, five hun- 
 dred pound in truck brings them in not above thirty-eight Reals i but by the 
 Commodities which they give in Barter, they gain Cent, per Cent, 
 
 The Nutmeg, the Nutmeg-Flowr, the Clove, and Cinnamon, are the only 
 Spices which the Hollanders have in their own hands. The three firft come 
 from the Molucca Iflands j the fourth, which is Cinnamon, from the Hland of 
 
 Ceylan. ■■■ V. >„ 
 
130 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Part E 
 
 Tis obfervable of the Nutmeg, that the Tree which bears it is never planted, 
 which has been confirm'd to me by feveral perfbns that have liv'd feveral years 
 in the Country. They related to me, that the Nutmeg being ripe, leveral Birds 
 come from the Iflands toward the South, and devour it whole, but are forc'd to 
 throw it up again before it be digefted. The Nutmeg then befmear'd with a 
 vifcous matter, falling to the ground takes root, and produces a Tree, which 
 would never thrive Were it planted. This puts me in mind of making one 
 obferVation upon the Birds of Paradife. Thefe Birds being very greedy after 
 Nutmegs, come in flights to gorge themfelves with the pleafing Spice, at the 
 jfeafbn, like Felfares in Vintage time ; but the ftrength of the Nutmeg fo intoxi- 
 cates them, that they fall dead drunk to the Earth, where the Emets in a fhort 
 time eat off their Legs. Hence it comes, that the Birds of Paradife are (aid to 
 have no Feet 5 which is not true however, for I have feen three or four that 
 had Feet ; and a French Merchant fent one from Aleppo as a Prefent to Lewis 
 the Thirteenth that had Feet 5 of which the King made great account, as being 
 a very lovely Fowl. 
 
 But notwithftanding all the Hollanders Projects , you may buy Cloves at 
 Macaffar without purchafing them of the Hollander ; in regard the Iflanders 
 buy them of the Dutch Captains and Soldiers, which the Hollanders have in 
 thofe place where the Cloves grow, giving them in exchange Rice, and other 
 neceffaries for the fupport of life, without which they would ftarve, being very 
 fadly provided for. 
 
 When the Natives of Macaffar are thus furnifh'd of Cloves, they barter 
 them in Exchange for fuch Commodies as are brought them ; fometimes they 
 give Tortoife-Shells in exchange, and Gold Duft j by which the Merchant gains 
 fix or feven in the hundred, being better than the Money of the Ifland, though 
 it be Gold, by reafon the King ofttimes enhances the value of it. The places 
 where Cloves grow, are Amboyna, EMas, Seram, and Bouro. 
 
 The Iflands of Banda alfb, in number fix, viz,. Nero } Lontour, Poulcay, Rofe-+ 
 guin, and Grenapuis, bear Nutmegs in great abundance. The Ifland of Grena- 
 fuis is about fix Leagues in compafs, and ends in a {harp point, where there is 
 a continual fire burning out of the Earth. The Ifland Damme, where there 
 grows great ftore of Nutmegs, and very big, was difcover'd in the year 1647, 
 by -Abel Tafman, a Dutch Commander. 
 
 The price of Cloves and Nutmegs, as I have known them fold to the Hoi-' 
 landers at Surat, was as follows. 
 
 The Mein of Surat contains forty Serres, which make thirty-four of our 
 Pounds, at fixteen Ounces to the Pound. 
 
 A Mein of Cloves was fold for a hundred and three Mamoudi's and a half. 
 
 A Mein of Mace was fold for a hundred and fifty-feven Mamoudi's and a 
 fialf. 
 
 Nutmegs for fifty-fix Mamoudi's and a half. 
 
 Cinnamon comes at prefent from the Ifland of Ceylan. The Tree that bears 
 it is very much like the Willow, and has three Barks. They never take off but 
 the firft and fecond, which is accounted the belt They never meddle with the 
 third, for fliould the Knife enter that, the Tree would dye. So that it is an 
 art to take off the Cinnamon, which they learn from their youth. The Cinna- 
 mon Spice is much dearer to the Hollanders than people think ; for the King 
 of Ceylan, otherwife call'd King of Candy > from the name of his principal City, 
 being a fworn Enemy to the Hollanders, fends his Forces with an intention to 
 furprize them, when they gather their Cinnamon ; fo that they are forc'd to 
 bring feven or eight hundred men together to defend as many more that are at 
 work. Which great expence of theirs very much enhances the price of the 
 Cinnamon. There grows upon the Cinnamon Tree a certain fruit like an Olive, 
 though not to be eaten. This the Portugals were wont to put into a Caldron 
 of Water, together with the tops of the Branches, and boil'd it till the Water 
 was all confum'd. When it was cold, the upper part became a Pafte like white 
 Wax ; of which they made Tapers to fet up in their Churches, for no fooner 
 were the Tapers lighted, but all the Church was perfum'd. Formerly the Por- 
 tugals brought Cinnamon out of other Countries, belonging to the Raja's about 
 
 Cochin. 
 
Book II. Travels in India. 
 
 Cochin. But the Hollanders have deftroy d all thofe places, fo that the Cinna- 
 mon is now in their hands. When the Portugals had that Coaft, the Englifh 
 bought their Ginnamonjof them,and ufually paid for it by theMein fifty Mamoudi's, 
 
 Drugs that are brought to Surat, and brought from other Countries, with 
 the price of every one by the Mcin. 
 
 Salt Armoniack , according to the ufual price, cofts by the Mein twenty 
 Mamoudi's. 
 
 Borax, comes unrefm'd from Amadabat, as does Salt Armoniack, and cofts 
 by the Mein thirty-five Mamoudi's. 
 Gum-Lack, feven Mamoudi's and a half. 
 Gum-Lack wafh'd, ten Mamoudi's. 
 Gum-Lack.in fticks of Wax, forty Mamoudi's. 
 
 There are tome of thefe Sticks that colt fifty or fixty Mamoudi's the Mein 
 an d more when they mix Musk in the Gum. 
 
 Saffron of -S^r^which is good for nothing but for colouring, four Mamoudi's 
 a"d a ha[f. 
 
 Cumin White, eight Mamoudi's. 
 
 Cumin Black, three Mamoudi's. 
 
 Arlet final!, three Mamoudi's. 
 
 Frankincenfe, that conies from the Coaft of Arabia, three Mamoudi's, 
 
 Myrrh, that which is good, call'd Mirra Gilet, thirty Mamoudi's. 
 
 Myrrh Bolti, which comes from Arabia, fifteen Mamoudi's. 
 
 Caffia, two Mamoudi's. 
 
 Sugar Candy, eighteen Mamoudi's. 
 
 Afutinat, a fort of Grain, very hot, one Mamoudi. I 
 Annife-Seed Grofs, three Mamoudi's and a half. 
 Annife-Seed fmall and hot, one Mamoudi and a half. 
 Oupelote, a Root, fourteen Mamoudi's. 
 Cointre, rive Mamoudi's. 
 
 Auzerout, from Perfia, a hundred and twenty Mamoudi's. 
 Aloes Succotrine, from Arabia 3 twenty eight Mamoudi's. 
 Licorice, four Mamoudi's. 
 
 Lignum Aloes, in great pieces, two hundred Mamoudi's. 
 Lignum Aloes, in final! pieces, four hundred Mamoudi's. 
 VeZs-Cabouli, a certain Root, twelve Mamoudi's. 
 
 There is a fort of Lignum Aloes very Gummy, which comes to, by the 
 Mein, four thoufand Mamoudi's. 
 
 Gum-Lake for the mod: part comes from Pegu yet there is fome alfo brought 
 from Bengala, where it is very dear, by reafon the Natives fetch that lively Scar- 
 let colour out of it, with which they paint their Galicuts. Neverthelefs^ 
 the Hollanders buy it, and carry it into Pcr(ta for the fame ufe of painting. 
 That which remains after the colour is drawn off, is only fit to make fealing 
 Wax. That which comes from Pegu is not fo dear, though as good for other 
 Countries. The difference is only this, that it is not fo clean in Pegu, where 
 the Pifmires foul it, as in Bengula, where it grows in a heathy place, full of 
 Shrubs, where thofe Animals cannot fo well come at it. The Inhabitants of 
 Pegu never make any ufe of it in painting, being a dull fort of people, that are 
 in nothing at all induftrious. 
 
 The Women of Surat get their livings by cleanfing the Lake after the Scar- 
 let colour is drawn from it. After that they give it what colour they pleafe, 
 and make it' up into Sticks for fealing Wax. The Englijh and Holland Company 
 carry away every year a hundred and fifty Chefts. The price is about ten Sous 
 the pound. 
 
 Powder'd Sugar is brought in great quantities out of the Kingdom of Ben- 
 gala ■, it caufes alfo a very great Trade at Ougeli, Patna, Daca } and other places. 
 I have been told it for a very great certainty, by feveral ancient people in 
 Bengala, that Sugar being kept thirty years becomes abfolute poifon, and that 
 there is no Venome more dangerous, or that fooner works its effect. Loaf-Sugar 
 
 * S 2 is 
 
132 Travels in India. Part. II. 
 
 is atfo made at Amadabat, where they are perfectly skill'd in refining it 5 for 
 which reafon it is call'd Sugar Royal. Thefe Sugar-Loaves ufually weigh from 
 eight to ten pound. 
 
 Opium is brought from Brampour, a Town of good Trade between Aira and 
 Swat. The Hollanders buy great quantities, which they truck for their Pep- 
 per. 
 
 Tobacco alfo grows in abundance round about Brampow ; fometimes there has 
 been fo much that the Natives have let vaft quantities rot upon the ground, 
 for want of gathering. 
 
 Cotfee grows neither in Perfia nor in India, where it is in no requeft ; but 
 the Hollanders drive a great Trade in it, tranfporting it from Ormus into Perfia, 
 as far as Great Tartary, from Baljara into Caldea, Arabia, Mcfiopotamia, and 
 other Provinces of Twky. It was firft found out by a Hermite, whofe name 
 was ScbeckjSiadeli, about twenty-years ago, before which time it was never 
 heard of in any Author either ancient or modern. 
 
 Deceits in Silk. Wares. 
 
 Plain Silk Wares may be alter'd in length, breadth, and quality. The qua- 
 lity (hews it felf when they are of an even thready when the weight is equal, 
 and when there is no Cotton thread in the Weft. 
 
 The Indians not having the art of guilding filver, put into their ftrip'd 
 Wares threads of pure Gold, fo that you muft count the quantity of Gold 
 threads to fee whether the Silk have its due number. And this alfb you muft 
 obferve in your Silks wov'n with Silver. As for Taifata's, you are only to mind 
 whether the pieces be all of a finenefs, and to fee by unfolding fome of them, 
 that there be nothing within to augment the weight, and then weighing all 
 the pieces by themfelves, to fee that they all agree. 
 
 The colours of thofe Carpetts which are made in India, do not laft fo 
 long as the colour of thofe which are made in Perfia ; but for the workman- 
 fhip it is very lovely. The eye of the Broaker is to ;udg of the largenefs, 
 beauty, and finenefs of thofe Carpetts which are wrought with Gold and 
 Silver, and whether they be fine and rich. But whether they be Carpetts, 
 or other Stuffs mix'd with Gold and Silver, it behoves the Buyer to pull out 
 fome of the Gold and Silver Threads, to fee whether they be of the right 
 value or no. 
 
 Deceits in the White Calicuts. 
 
 The deceits ufually put upon Calicuts, are in finenefs, length, and breadth. 
 Every Bale may contain two hundred pieces ; among which they will juggle 
 in five or fix or ten, lefs fine, or lefs white, fhorter or narrower than accor- 
 ding to the fcantling of the Bale, which cannot be found out but by examining 
 them piece by piece. The finenefs is difcern'd by the eye, the length and breadth 
 by the meafure. But the Indians pra&ife a more cunning way, which is to 
 count the number of threads which ought to be in the breadth, according to 
 the finenefs of the fcantling. When the number fails, it is either more tranf- 
 parent, more narrow, or more courfe. The difference is fometimes fo difficult 
 to be perceiv'd, that there is no way to find it out but by counting the threads. 
 And yet this difference in a great quantity comes to a great deal. For it is no- 
 thing to coufen a Crown or two Crowns, in a piece that comes but to fifteen 
 or twenty Crowns. Thofe that whiten thefe Calicuts, to fave charges of a 
 few Limons, will knock the Calicuts exceffively upon a Stone, which does fine 
 Calicuts a great injury, and loars the price. 
 
 As for their Calicuts dy'd blew or black, you muft take care that the Work- 
 men do not knock them after they are folded, to make them look fltek ; for many 
 times when they come to be unfolded, you fhall -find holes in the creafes. 
 
 As for your painted and printed Calicuts, which are painted and printed as 
 they come out of the Loom, the Merchant muft take care that what he be- 
 fpeaks be finifh'd before the end of the Rains, for the thicker the Water is 
 
 where 
 
Eook II. 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 133 
 
 where they are walh'd, the more lively will the printed and painted colours ap- 
 pear. It is eafy to diftinguifh between the printed and the painted Calicuts ; 
 and between the neatnefs of the work : but for the finenels and other qua- 
 lities, they are not fo eafily difcem'd 5 and therefore the Broaker muft be more 
 careful. 
 
 Cheats in Cotton. 
 
 TH E cheat in the weight is twofold. The ficft, by laying them in a moift 
 place ; and thrufting in the middle of every Skain fomething to add to the 
 weight. The fecond, in not giving good weight when the Broaker receives it 
 from the Workman, or Merchant that delivers it. 
 
 There is but one cheat in the quality, that is by putting three or four Skains, 
 of a coarfer Commodity than that which is uppermoft, into one Mein. 
 Which in a great quantity mounts high ; for there are Ibme Cottons that 
 are worth an hunder'd Crowns the Mein. Thde two cheats being often 
 us'd by the Holland' Company , there is 110 way but to weigh your Com- 
 modity in the prefence of the D/^cA-Commander, and his Councel, and to 
 examine every Mein, Skain by Skain. When this is done, they who are 
 order'd to be at this examination, are oblig'd to fix to every Bale a ticket 
 of the weight and quality : for if there be a falleur, they who fix the ticket 
 are engag'd to make good what is wanting. 
 
 Deceits in Indigo. 
 
 I Have told you, that when the Work-men have made up the Indigo-Pafte into 
 lumps, with their fingers dipt in Oil, they lay them in the Sun a drying. Now 
 thole that have a defign to cheat the Merchants, dry them in the (and, to the end 
 that the land fticking to the Indigo, mould encreafe the weight. Sometimes they 
 lay up their Pafte in moift places, which makes it give, and confequently renders 
 it more heavy. But if the Goverr.our of the place difcovers the cheat, he makes 
 them feverely pay for it : and the belt way of difcovery is to burn fome pieces of 
 Indigo, for the land will remain. 
 
 Indian Broi'^ers. 
 
 THE Breakers are as it were the Matters of the A\/^.;FamiIies ; for they have 
 all Goods at their dilpolal. The Work-men choofc the molt aged and molt 
 experiene'd, who are to endeavor equal advantages for the whole Tribe they under- 
 take for. Every evening that they return from their bufinefs,and that, according to 
 the cultom of the Indians, who make no Suppers, they have eaten fome little 
 piece of fweet-meat, and drank a glals of water, the eld eft of the Tribe meet at 
 the Broaker's Houle, who gives them an account of what he has done that day, 
 and then they conliilt what he is to do next. Above all things^ they caution him 
 to look to his hits, and to cheat, rather than be cheated. 
 
 CHAP 
 
134 
 
 "Travels in India. 
 
 PartH. 
 
 CHAP. XT. 
 
 Of Diamonds, and the Mines and Rivers where they are found ; and 
 firs! of the Author s journey to the Mine of RaoJconda. 
 
 j 0 
 
 THE Diamond is the moft precious of all Stones, and it was in that fort, of 
 Commodity wherein I moft dealt. And therefore to acquire a perfect ex- 
 perience, I went to all the Mines ; and to one of the Rivers where they are 
 found. To which purpofe I travell'd to four Mines ; of which I will give you a 
 defcription ; and of one of the Rivers where I have alfb been. 
 
 The firft of thefe Mines, where I was, is in the Territories of the King of Vi- 
 fapour, in the Province of Carnatica ; and the place is call'd Raokonda, five days 
 journey from Golconda, and eight or nine from Fifapour. This Mine was difcover'd 
 not above two-hunder'd years ago., as I was inform'd by thofe of the Courr- 
 trey. 
 
 Round about the place where the Diamonds are found, the ground is fandy, full 
 of Rocks, much refembling the parts near FoKntain-Bleau. There are m the 
 Rocks feveral veins, fome half a finger, fome a whole finger-wide : And the 
 Miners make ufe of Irons with hooks at the end, with which thep pick out the 
 earth or fand, which they put into tubs, and among that earth they find the Dia- 
 monds. But becaufe thefe veins do not run always ftreight, but iometimes down, 
 fometimes upward, the Miners are conftrain'd to break the Rock, following always 
 the trace of the veins : When they have open'd all the veins, and taken out all 
 the fand, then they wafh it two or three times over to look for the Diamonds. 
 In this Mine it is that they find the cleaneft Stones, and of the whiteft water. 
 But the mifchief is, that to fetch the fand out of the Rock, they are forc'd to 
 frrike fuch terrible blows with a great Iron-leaver, that they flaw the Dia- 
 mond, and make it look like CryftaJ. Which is the reafon there are found fo 
 many ibft Stones in this Diamond-Mine, though they make a great mew. If the 
 Stone be clean, they only give it a turn or two upon the wheel, not caring to fhape 
 it, for fear of lofing the weight. If there be any flaw's, or any points, or any 
 black or red fpecks in it, they cut all the Stone into Foflets ; or if there be only 
 a little flaw, they work it under the ridg of one of the Foflets, to hide the de- 
 fect. Now becaufe a Merchant defires rather to have a black fpeck than a red 
 one ; 'tis but burning the Stone, and the fpeck becomes black. This trick at 
 length I underftood fo well, that when I faw any Stones in them that came from 
 the Mine made into Foflets, eipecially very fmall ones, I was certain there was 
 either fome fpeck or fome flaw in the Stone. 
 
 There are feveral Diamond-Cutters at this Mine, but none of them have above 
 one Mill, which is of Steel. They never cut but one Stone at a time upon each 
 Mill, cafting water continually upon the Mill, to find out the grain of the Stone j 
 which being found, they pour on Oil, (not fparing for powder of Diamonds, though' 
 it be very dear,) to make the Stone Aide the fafter ; and they lay on more 
 weight than we do. I have feen them lay upon one Stone an hunder'd and fifty 
 pound of Lead. I muft confefs it was a great Stone, which weigh'd an hunder'd 
 and three Carats, after it was cut ; and the Mill was like ours, only the great 
 Wheel was turn'd by four Negro s. The Indians are not of the fame opinion that 
 we are 3 for they do not believe that the weight gives any lufter to the Stones. 
 If theirs be not fubjecT: to take their lufter, 'tis becaufe there is always a Boy that 
 ftands with a thin woodden-flice in his hand, and waters the Wheel continually 
 with Oil and Powder of Diamonds. Befides, their Wheel does not go fo faft as 
 ours, becaufe the Woodden-wheel that turns the Steel-wheel, is not above three 
 foot in Diameter. 
 
 They car.not give that lively polifhment to Stones, as we give to ours in Europe j 
 and I believe the reafon to be, becaufe their Wheel does' not run fo flat as ours. 
 For in regard it is of Steel, to rub it upon the Emeril, as muft be done every 
 four and twenty hours, the Tree muft be taken oft, which can never be put on 
 
 again 
 
Book II. Travels ///India. 135 
 
 again fo as to run fo flat as it did. Had they the invention of Iron-mills, upon 
 which they never ufe Emeril, but only the File, becaufe there is no neceflity to 
 take off the Tree to file the Mill, they might polifh their Stones better than they 
 do. I have told you they muft either rub the Mill with Emeril, or file it every 
 four and twenty hours. For when the Stone has run for fome time, that part of 
 the Mill becomes as fmooth and bright as glafs : fo that if you do not rough it 
 again either with Emeril or the File, the powder will not ftay j whereas if the 
 powder ftay, there is more work done in an hour than otherwife in two. 
 
 Though a Diamond be naturally very hard, having a kind of a knot, as you fee 
 in wood, the Indian Lapidaries will cut the Stone, which our European Lapidaries 
 find great difficulty to do,and ufually will not undertake to perform ; which makes 
 the Indians require fomething more for the fafhion. 
 
 As for the Government of the Mines, they trade very freely, and very faith- 
 fully. They pay two per cent, to the King for all that they buy : befides that, he 
 has alfo a duty from the Merchants for leave to dig. The Merchant after he has 
 made fearch with the Miners, who know all the places where the Diamonds grow, 
 choofes out a place about two-hunder'd paces in compafs, where they fet at work 
 fometimes fifty, fometimes an hunder'd Miners, as they are in haft of work. And 
 from the day that they begin to work, to the day that they end, the Merchants 
 pay to the King two Pagods a-day } and four when they employ an hunder'd 
 men. 
 
 Thefe poor people never get above three Pagods all the year long, though they 
 underftand their bufinefs extremely well ; fo that their wages being fo final!, they 
 make no fcruple, when they can handfomely., to hide a Stone for their own pro- 
 fit: and in regard they are quite naked, only for a rag about their privities, fome- 
 times they are fo dextrous as to fwallow the Stone. The chief of the Merchants 
 who employ thefe Miners fhew'd me one of them, that had cozen'd him of a 
 Stone, and had put it into the corner of his eye, but he took it from the fellow 
 fo fbon as he had difcover'd the cheat. To prevent this cozenage, there are twelve 
 or fifteen in fifty, who are engag'd to the Merchant, that he fhall have no injury ' 
 done him, nor any thefts committed. If by accident they meet with a Stone 
 that weighs 14 or 1 6 Carats, they prefently carry it to the Mafter of the work, 
 who gives him in recompence the Sarpo } which is a piece of Calicut to make 
 him a Bonnet, to the value of 2j Sous, together with half a Pagod in Silver, or 
 elfe a whole Pagod, when he gives him neither Rice nor Sugar. 
 
 The Merchants that come to trade at the Mines keep their Lodgings ; and every 
 morning about ten or eleven a clock., after they have din'd, the Mafters of the 
 Miners bring their Diamonds to fhew them. If the Stones are large, or that there 
 be fo many as amount from two-thoufand to fixteen-thoufand Crowrs, they will 
 leave them with the ftrange Merchant feven or eight days, for the Merchants to 
 confider. When the Merchant has feen the Stones, it becomes him to agree upon 
 the price in a fhort time. Otherwife the party that owes the Stones, takes them 
 away again, and you fhall never fee the fame Stones again, unlefs mix'd with 
 others. When the bargain is concluded, the Purchafer gives a Bill of Exchange 
 upon the Banker. If you have agreed to pay him in four days, and make him ftay 
 longer, you muft pay him down one and an half in the hunder'd for a months in- 
 tereft. Moft commonly when they know the Merchant to be fufficient, they 
 will choofe to take a Bill of Exchange for ■Agra } for Golconda, or Fifaponr, but 
 more efpecially for Surat, as being the moft frequented Port in all India } where 
 they may furnifh themfelves with all Commodities which they want. 
 
 'Tis very pleafant to fee the young children of the Merchants and other people 
 of the Countrey, from the age of ten to fifteen or fixteen years, who feat them- 
 felves upon a Tree that lies in the void place of the Town : Every one of them 
 has his Diamond- weights in a little Bag hanging at one fide, on the other his Purfe 
 with five or fix-hunder'd Pagods in Gold in it. There they fit expecting when 
 any perfon will come to fell them fome Diamonds. If any perfon brings them a 
 Stone, they put it into the hands of the eldeft Boy among them, who is as it were 
 their chief ; who looks upon it, and after that gives it to him that is next him j 
 by which means it goes from hand to hand, till it return to him again, none of the 
 reft fpeaking one word. After that he demands the price, to buy it if polTible^ 
 
Travels in India. 
 
 Part. II. 
 
 but if he buy it too dear, 'tis upon his own account. In the evening the children 
 compute what they have laid out, then they look upon their Stones, and feparate 
 them according to their water, their weight, and clearnefs. Then they bring them 
 to the great Merchants, who have generally great parcels to match : and the pro- 
 fit is divided among the children equally 5 only the chief among them has a fourth 
 in the hunder'd more than the reft. As young as they are, they.fb well underftahd 
 the price of Stones, that if one of them have bought any purchafe, and is willing 
 to loie one half in the hunder'd, the other fhall give him his Money. They fhall 
 hardly bring you a parcel of Stones, above a dozen, wherein there is not fome 
 flaw or other defed. 
 
 When I came to the Mine, I went to wait upon the Governour, who told me 
 I was welcome ; and becaufe he made no queftion but that I had brought Gold 
 with me, ('for they talk of nothing under Gold at the Mines,^ he bid me only lay 
 it in my Chamber, and he would undertake it mould be fafe. Thereupon he pre- 
 fented me with four fervants to watch my Gold day and night, and to follow my 
 orders, bidding me withal fear nothing, but eat, drink, and fleep, and take care of 
 my health j but withal he told me I muft be careful of not cheating the King. 
 Thereupon I fell to buying, and found profit enough, above twenty in the hunder'd 
 cheaper than at Golconda. 
 
 I have one thing to obferve which is more than ordinarily curious, concerning 
 the manner how the Indians, as well Mahometans as Idolaters, drive their bar- 
 gains. Every thing is done with great filence, and without any talking on either 
 fide. The buyer and the feller fit one before another like two Taylors, and the 
 one of the two opening his Girdle, the feller takes the right-hand of the purcha- 
 fer, and covers his own hand and that with his Girdle : under which, in the pre- 
 fence of many Merchants that meet together in the fame Hall, the bargain is fe- 
 cretly driven without the knowledg of any perfon. For then the purchafer nor 
 feller fpeak neither with their mouths nor eyes, but only with the hand, as thus. 
 When the feller takes the purchafer by the whole hand, that fignifies a thoufand, 
 and as often as he fqueezes it, he means fo many thoufand Pagods or Roupies, ac- 
 cording to the Money in queftion. If he takes but half to the knuckle of the 
 middle-finger, that's as much as to fay fifty : The fmall end of the finger to the 
 firft knuckle fignifies ten. When he grafps five fingers, it fignifies five-hunder'd ; 
 if but one finger, one-hunder'd. This is the myftery which the Indians ufe in 
 driving their bargains. And many times it happens, that in the fame place, where 
 there are feveral people, one and the fame parcel fhall be fold feven or eight times 
 over, and no perfon know that it was fold in that manner every time. 
 
 As for the weight of the Stones, no perfon can be deceiv'd in them, unlefs he 
 purchafe them in hugger-mugger. For if they are publickly bought, there is a 
 perfon on purpofe paid by the King, without any benefit from particular perfons, 
 whofe place it is to weigh the Diamonds 5 and when he has fpoken the weight, 
 the buyer and feller are fatisfi'd in his words, as not being a perfon any way ob- 
 lig'd to favour any perfon. 
 
 Having difpatch'd all my bufinefs at the Mine, the Governour appointed me fix 
 Horfe-men to convoy me through the Territories under his Government, which 
 extends to a River that feparates the Kingdom of Vifaponr from that of Golconda* 
 Tis a very difficult thing to crofs that River, it being deep, broad and rapid ; be- 
 fides that, there are no Boats. But they ferry over Men, Carriages, Oxen and 
 Coaches upon a round VefTel, ten or twelve foot in Diameter, made of Ofier- 
 twigs, like our Flaskets,, and cover'd without with Ox-hides j as I have already 
 related. They might eafily ufe Boats, or make a Bridg j but the King of Gol- 
 conda will not fufter either, becaufe the River parts the two Kingdoms. Every 
 evening the Ferry-men on both fides are bound to carry to two Governours on 
 each fide the River, an exacl: account of the Perfons,, Carriages and Merchandizes 
 which they ferri'd over that day. 
 
 Coming to Golconda, I found that the perfon whom I had left in truft with my 
 Chamber, was dead : but that which I obferv'd moft remarkable, was, that I found 
 the door fealed with two Seals, one being the Cadi's or chief Juftice's., the other 
 the Sha-Bander's, or Provoft of the Merchants. An Officer of Juftice, together 
 with }he Seryants I had left behind, watch'd the Chamber night and day. This 
 
 Officer 
 
Book TI. 
 
 Travels lft India. 
 
 Officer hearing of my arrival, went and gave notice to the Cadi and Sha-Bander, 
 who fent for me. The Cadi prefently ask'd me, if the Money I had left in the 
 Chamber where the perfon dy'd were mine, and how I could prove it. 1 told 
 him I had no better proofs than the Letters of Exchange which I had brought 
 to the Banker that paid it by my order to the perfon deceas'd ; to whom I 
 bad alfo giv'n farther order, that if the Banker paid me in Silver, he mould 
 change the fum into Gold. Thereupon the Bankers were lent for, who affirm- 
 ing the payments accordingly, the Cadi fent his Deputy to op'n the Chamber 
 door ; nor would he leave me, till I had counted over my Money, and had 
 aflur'd him it was right. After that I return'd to the Cadi and the Sha-Bander s 
 and fignifi'd as much to them j and having paid them fome Fees which they 
 demanded, to the value of four Crowns and a half of our Money, I return'd 
 them my thanks for their care. This I relate to (hew the juftice of the Country, 
 
 CHAP. xir. 
 
 The Authors Journey to the other Mines ; and how they fnd the 
 
 Diamonds there. 
 
 SEven days journey from Golconda Eaftward there is another Diamond Mine a 
 eall'd in the language of the Country Gani, in the Perjian tongue Contour, 
 It is near a great Town, by which the fame River runs, which I crofs'd coming 
 from the other Mine ; and a League and a half from the Town is a high Moun- 
 tain in the form of a Half-Moon ; the fpace between the Town and the Moun- 
 tain is a Plain where they dig and find Diamonds. The nearer they dig to the 
 Mountain, the larger Stones they find j but at the top they find nothing at 
 all. 
 
 It is not above a hundred years fince this Mine was found out by a Country- 
 man, who digging in a piece of ground to fow Millet, found therein a 
 pointed Stone that weigh'd above twenty-five Carats $ he not knowing what 
 the Stone was, but feeing it glifter, carry'd it to Golconda, where as it happen'd 
 well for him, he met with one that traded in Diamonds. The Merchant in- 
 forming himfelf of the place where the Stone was found, admir'd to fee a Jewel 
 of that bignefs, not having feen any one before that weigh'd above ten or twelve 
 Carats. However his report made a great noife in the Country ; infomuch that 
 the Mony'd men in the Town fet themfelves to work, and caufing the ground 
 to be fearch'd, they found, and ftill do find bigger Stones, and in greater quan- 
 tity than in any other Mine. For they found a great number of Stones from 
 ten to forty Carats, and fometimes bigger ; among the reft that large Stone 
 that weigh'd nine hundred Carats, which Mirgimola prefented to Aureng-iLcb. 
 
 But though this Mine of Contour be fo confiderable for the quantity of great 
 Stones which are there found, yet the mifchief is, the Stones are not clean ; 
 the Waters having fomething of the quality of the Earth where they are found. 
 It the Ground be merfhy, the Water enclines to black j if it be red, there is a 
 rednefs in the Water j in other places the Stones appear fomewhat greenifh, in 
 others yellowifh j fuch a diverfity of Soils there is between the Town and the 
 Mountain. Upon the moft part of thefe Stones after they are cut, there appears 
 a kind of greafie moifture, which muft be as often wip'd off. 
 
 As for the Water of the Stones, it is remarkable, that whereas in Europe 
 we make ufe of day-light to examine the rough Stones, and to ;udg of their 
 Water, and the fpecks that are found therein, the Indians do all that in the 
 night-time, fetting up a Lamp with a large Wiek, in a hole which they make 
 in the Wall, about a foot fquare ; by the light whereof they judg of the Wa- 
 ter and clearnefs of the Stone, which they hold between their Fingers. The 
 Water which they call celeftial is the worft of all, and it is impoflible to difcern 
 it fo long as the Stone is rough. The moft infallible way to find out that Wa- 
 
 * T teiy 
 
138 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Part II. 
 
 ter, is to carry the Stone under a Tree thick of Boughs, for by the verdure 
 of that fhade you may eafily difcern whether the Water be blevvifh or no. 
 
 The firft time I was at the Mine, there were above fixty thoufand perfbns 
 at work, men, women, and children j the men being employ'd to dig, the 
 women, and children to carry the Earth. 
 
 After the Miners have pitch'd upon the place where they intend to work, 1 
 they level another place clofe by, of the lame extent, or elfe a little bigger, 
 which they enclofe with a Wall about two foot high. In the bottom of that 
 little Wall, at the diftance of every two foot, they makefmall holes to let in the 
 water ; which they (top up afterwards,till they come to drain out the water again. 
 The place being thus prepar'd, the people that are to work meet alt together, « 
 men, women, and children, with the Workmafter in the Company of his Friends 
 and Relations. Then he brings along with him fome little Image of the God 
 that they adore 5 which being plac'd upright upon the ground, they all pro- 
 ftrate themfelves three times before it, while their Prieft fays a certain prayer. 
 The prayer being ended, he marks the forehead of every one with a kind of 
 Glue., made of Satfron and Gum, to fuch a compafs as will hold feven or eight 
 Grains of Rice, which he fticks upon it ; then having wafh'd their bodies with 
 water, which every one brings in his pot, they rank themfelves in order to eat 
 what the Workmafter prefents them, before they go to work, to encourage 
 them both to labour and be faithful. This Feaft confifts of nothing elfe but every 
 one his Plate of Rice, diftributed by the Bramin ; for an Idolater may eat any 
 thing from the hands of one of their Priefts. The Plates are made of the Leaves 
 of a certain Tree, not much unlike our Walnut-tree Leaves. Befides this, eve- 
 ry one has a quarter of a pound of Butter, melted in a fmall Copper pot witli 
 fome Sugar. 
 
 jj When their Feaft is over, the men fall to digging, the women and children, 
 to carry Earth to the place prepar'd in that manner as I have already defcrib'd, 
 They dig ten, twelve, and fometimes fourteen foot deep ; but when they come 
 to any water they leave off. All the Earth being carry'd into the place before- 
 mention'd, the men, women, and children with Pitchers throw the water which 
 is in the drains upon the Earth,letting it foak for two or three days,according to the 
 hardnefs of it, till it come to be a kind of Batter ; then they open the holes in 
 the Wall to let out the water, and throw on more water ftill, till all the mud 
 be wafh'd away, and nothing left but the Sand. After that they dry it in the 
 Sun j and then they winnow the Sand in little Winnows, as we winnow our 
 Corn. The fmall duft flies away, the great remains, which they pour out a- 
 gain upon the ground. 
 
 The Earth being thus winnow'd, they fpread it with a kind of Rake, as thin 
 as they pofiibly can - s then with a wooden Inftrument, like a Paviers Rammer, 
 about half a foot wide at the bottom, they pound the Earth from one end to 
 the other, two or three times over. After that they winnow it again then j and 
 fpreading it at one end of the Van, for fear of lofing any of they Earth, the look 
 for the Diamond. 
 
 Formerly they were wont to pound the Earth with great Flint-ftones, inftead 
 of wooden Rammers j which made great flaws in the Diamonds, and is there- 
 fore now left off. 
 
 Heretofore they made no fcruple to buy thofe Diamonds that had a green 
 outfide - r for being cut, they, prov'd very white, and of an excellent water. 
 
 Since they have been more nice j for there was a Mine difcover'd between 
 Coulow and Raolcovda, which the King caus'd to be fhut up again, by reafon of 
 fome cheats that were us'd there ; for they found therein that fort of Stones 
 which had this green outfide, fair and tranfparent, and which appear'd more 
 fair than the others \ but when they came to the Mill they crumbl'd to pieces. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Book II. 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 139 
 
 CHAP, XIIL 
 
 A Continuation of the Authors Travels to the 'Diamond Mines. 
 
 I come to the third Mine, which is the moft ancient of alt, in the Kingdoni 
 of Bengal i. You may give it the name of Soumelpour, which is the name of 
 the Town next to the place where the Diamonds are found 5 or rather Gonel, 
 which is the name of the River in the Sand whereof they feek for the Stones. 
 The Territories through which this River runs, belong to a Raja, who was 
 anciently tributary to the Great Mogul, but revoked in the time of the Wars 
 between Sba-jehan and Geban-guir his Father. So foon as Sba-jeban came to 
 the Empire, he fent to demand his Tribute of this Raja, as well for the time 
 palt, as to come ; who rinding that his Revenues were not fufficient to pay him, 
 quitted his Country, and retir'd into the Mountains with his Subjects. Upon 
 his refufal, Sba-jehan believing he would ftand it out, fent a great Army againft 
 him , perfwading himfelf that he fhould find great ftore of Diamonds in his 
 Country. But he found neither Diamonds, nor People, nor Victuals, the Raja, 
 having burnt all the Corn which his Subjefts could not carry away ; fo that 
 the greateft part of Sba-jebans Army perifh'd for hunger. At length the Raja 
 return'd into his Country, upon condition to pay the Mogul fome flight 
 Tribute. 
 
 The Way from Agra to tbis Mi.ne, 
 
 From Agra to Halabas, coftes 130 
 From Halabas to Banarous, coftes 33 
 From Banarous to Safaron, coftes 4 
 From Agra to Saferon you travel Eaftward ; but from Saferon to the Mine 
 you muft wind to the South, coming firft to a great Town, coftes 21 
 This Town belongs to the Raja I have (poke of. From thence you go to 
 a Fortrefs call'd Rodas, coftes 4 
 This is one of the ltrongeft places in all Afia, feated upon a Mountain, for- 
 tifi'd with fix Baftions, and twenty-feven pieces of Cannon, with three Moats 
 full of Water, wherein there are good Fifh. There is but one way to come 
 to the top of the Mountain, where there is a Plain half a League in compafs, 
 wherein they fow Corn and Rice. There is above twenty Springs that water 
 that Plain j but all the reft of that Mountain from top to bottom is nothing 
 but a fteep Precipice cover'd with over-grown Woods. The Raja's formerly 
 us'd to live in this Fort with a Garrifon of feven or eight hundred men. But 
 the Great Mogul has it now ; having taken that Fort by the policy Of the fa- 
 mous Mirgimola, which all the Kings of India could never take before. The 
 Raja left three Sons, who betray'd one another ; the eldeft was poifon'd, th^ 
 ftcond went and ferv'd the Great Mogul, who gave him the command erf four 
 thoufand Horfe j the third pofieflTes his Fathers Territories, paying the Mogul 
 a fjnall Tribute. 
 
 From the Fortrefs of Rodas to Soumelpour, coftes 3 a 
 
 Soumelpour is a great Town, the Houfes whereof are built of Earth, and co- 
 ver'd only with Branches of Coco-trees. All thefe thirty Leagues you travel 
 through Woods, which is a very dangerous paflage, as being very much pefter'd 
 with Robbers. The Raja lives half a League from the Town, in Tents fet upon 
 a fair rifing ground, at the foot whereof runs the Gouel, defcending from the 
 Southern Mountains, and falling into Ganges. 
 
 In this River they find the Diamonds. For after the great Rains are over, 
 which is ufually in December, they ftay all January till the River be clear j by. 
 reafon that by that time in fome places it is not above two foot deep, awd 
 in feyeral places the Sand lies above the water. About the end of January \J 
 or the beginning of February, there flock together out of the great Town,' 
 
 * T 2 and' 
 
Travels in India. Part, II 
 
 and fome others adjoining, above eight thoufand perfons, men, women and 
 children, that are able to work. They that are skilful know by the fand whe- 
 ther there be any Diamonds or no, when they find among the (and little 
 Stones like to thofe which we call Thunder-Stones. They begin to make fearch 
 in the River from the Town of Soumelpottr to the very Mountains from whence 
 the River falls, for fifty Leagues together. 
 
 Where they believe there are Diamonds, they encompafs the place with 
 Stakes, Faggots, and Earth, as when they go about to make the Arch of a 
 Bridg to drain all the water out of that place. Then they dig out all the 
 Sand for two foot deep, which is all carried and fpread upon a great place 
 for that purpofe prepar'd upon the fide of the River ; encompafs'd with a 
 little Wall about a foot and half high. When they hav/e fill'd this place with 
 as much Sand as they think convenient, they throw water upon it, warn 
 it, and fift it ; doing in other things as they do at the Mines which I have 
 already defcrib'd. 
 
 From this River come all thofe fair Points which are call'd natural Points,' 
 but a great Stone is feldom found here. The reafon why none of thefe Stones 
 have been feen in Europe, is becaufe of the Wars, that have hinder'd the people 
 from working. 
 
 Befides the Diamond Mine which I have fpoken of in the Province of 
 Carnatica, which MirgimoU caus'd to be fhut up, by reafon of the yellownefs 
 of the Diamonds, and the foulnefs of the Stones ; there is in the Ifland of Bor- 
 neo, the largeft Ifland in the World, another River call'd Succadan t m the 
 Sand whereof they find Diamonds as hard as any in the other Mines. The 
 principal reafon that diflwaded me from going to the Ifland of Borneo was, 
 becaufe I underftood that the Queen of the Ifland would not permit any 
 Strangers to carry away any of thofe Diamonds out of the Ifland. Thofe few 
 that are exported, being carry'd out by health, and privately fold at tiatavia. 
 I fay the Queen, and not the King, becaufe in that Ifland the Women have 
 the Soveraign Command, and not the Men. For the people are fo curious to 
 have a lawful Heir upon the Throne, that the Husband not being certain 
 that the Children which he has by his Wife are his own j but the Wife being 
 always certain that the Children which (he bears are hers, they' rather choofe 
 to be govern'd by a Woman, to whom they give the Title of Queen 3 her 
 Husband being only her SubjecT:, and having no power but what fhe permits 
 him. 
 
 IzLO 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 Of the diverfity of Weights usd at the Diamond Mines. Of the 
 Tieces of Gold and Silver there Currant ; and the Rule which 
 they observe td know the Trice of Diamonds. 
 
 AT the Mine of Raolconda they weigh by Mangelins, a Mangelin being 
 one Carat and three quarters, that is feven Grains. 
 At the Mine of Gam or Contour they ufe the fame Weights. 
 At the Mine of Soumelpour in Bengala, they weigh by Rati's, and the Rati 
 is feven eighths of a Carat, or three Grains and a half. They ufe the fame 
 Weights over all the Empire of the Mogul. 
 
 In the Kingdoms of Golconda and Vifapour, they make ufe of Mangelins 5 
 but a Mangelin in thofe parts is not above one Carat and three eighths. The 
 Portugal* in Goa make ufe of the fame Weights in Goa ; but a Mangelin there 
 is not above five Grains. 
 
 As for the Money in ufe: Firft, in Bengala, in the Territories of the Raja 
 before mention'd, in regard they lye enclos'd within the Dominions of the 
 Great Mogul,, they make their payments in Roupies. 
 
 At 
 
Book II. 
 
 Travels in India, 
 
 At the two Mines about Raolconda in the Kingdom of Fifapour, the payments 
 are made in new Pagods, which the King coins in his own Name, as being inde- 
 pendent from the Great Mogul. The new Pagod is not always at the lame value • 
 for it is fometimes worth three Roupies and a half, fometimes more, and fome- 
 times left ; being advanc'd and brought down according to the courle of Trade, 
 and the correfpondence of the Bankers with the Princes and Governors. 
 
 At the Mine of Colour or Gani, which belongs to the Kingdom of Golconda, 
 they make their payments in new Pagods, which are equal in value to the King of 
 Vijapour's. But fometimes you are forc'd to give four in the hunder'd more, by 
 reafon they are better Gold, and befides, they will take no others at the Mine, 
 Thefe Pagods are coin'd by the EngUJh and Hollanders, who, whether willingly or 
 by force, are priviledg'd by the King to coin them in their Forts : And thofe of 
 the Hollanders coft one or two per cent, more than the EngUJh, by reafon they are 
 better Gold, and for that the Miners choofe them before the other. But in re- 
 gard the Merchants are prepolfefs'd that the Miners are a rude and lavage fort of 
 people, and that the ways are dangerous, they ftay at Golconda, where the Work- 
 malters keep correfpondence with them, and fend them their Jewels. There they 
 pay in old Pagods coin'd many ages ago by feveraf Princes that Reign'd in India 
 before the Mahometans got footing therein. Thofe old Pagods are worth four 
 Roupies and a half, that is to fay, a Roupy more than the new : not that there is 
 any more Gold in them, or that they weigh any more. Only the Baikers, to ob- 
 lige the King, not to bring down the price, pay him annually a very great Sum, by 
 reafon they get very much by it. For the Merchants receive none of thofe Pa- 
 gods without a Changer to examin them, fome being all defac'd, others low-metal, 
 others wanting weight : fo that if one of thefe Bankers were not prefent at the 
 receipt, the Merchant would be a greater lofer, fometimes one, fometimes five^ 
 fometimes fix i'th hunder'd : for which they alio pay them one quarter in the 
 hunder'd for their pains. When the Miners are paid, they alfo receive their Mo- 
 ney in the prefence of Bankers, who tells them which is good, and which 
 is bad ; and has for that alfo one quarter i'th hunder'd. In the payment of 
 a thoufand or two-thoufand Pagods, the Banker, for his fee, puts them into a bag, 
 and feals it with his Seal ; and when the Merchant pays for his Diamonds, he 
 brings the Seller to the Banker, who finding his bag entire, alTures the party that 
 all is right and good within ; and fo there is no more trouble. 
 
 As for the Roupies, they take indifferently, as well the Great Mogul's as the 
 King of Golconda's : by reafon that thofe which that King coins, are to be coin'd, 
 by Articles, with the Great Moguls ftamp. 
 
 'Tis an idle thing to believe that vulgar error, that it is enough to carry Spices, 
 Tobacco, Looking-glalTes, and fuch trifles to truck for Diamonds at the Indian- 
 Mines : For I can allure ye, thefe people will not only have Gold, but Gold of the 
 belt fort too. 
 
 As for the roads to the Mines, fome fabulous modern relations have render'd 
 them very dangerous, and fill'd them full of Lions, Tigers, and cruel People $ but 
 I found them not only free from thofe wild creatures, but alfo the People very 
 loving and courteous. 
 
 From Golconda to Raolconda, which is the principal Mine, the road is as follows i 
 the road being meafur'd by Gos, which is four fVm^-leagues. 
 
 From Golconda to Canapour, one Gos. 
 
 From Canapour to Par quel, two Gos and a half 
 
 From Par quel to Cakenol, one Gos. 
 
 From Cakenol to Canol-Candanor, three Gos. 
 
 From Canol-Candanor to Setapour, one Gos. 
 
 From Setapour to the River, two Gos. 
 
 That River is the bound between the Kingdoms of Golconda and Vijapom, 
 
 From the River to Alpour, three quarters of a Gos. 
 
 From Alpour to Canal, three quarters of a Gos. 
 
 From Canal to Raolconda, two Gos and a half. 
 Thus fromGolconda to the Mine,they reckon it feventeen Gos,or 6SFrencb-Lcigues. 
 
 From Golconda to the Mine of Coulom or Gani t is reckon'd thirteen Gos and J 
 three quarters, or j j FVe«c£-leagues. , . 
 
 Froan 
 
142 Travels in India. Part. II 
 
 From Golconda to Almafpinda } x\\ree Gos and a half. 
 
 From yllrtiafpinda to Kaper, two Gos. 
 
 From Kaper to Montecour, two Gos and a half. 
 
 From Montecour to Naglepar^ two Gos. 
 
 From Naglepar to Eligada, one Gos and a half, 
 
 From Elipada to Sarvaron, one Gos. 
 
 From Sarvaron to Afellaferoa, one Gos. 
 
 From Meliaferon to Ponocour, two Gos and a quarter. 
 
 At Ponoconr you only crois the River to CohIohy. 
 
 GHAP. XV. 
 
 £0 £Z>? ^//? ^r/re of a ^Diamond of what 
 
 weight foever, from three to a hinder 'd, and upwards : a fecret 
 known to very few people in Europe. 
 
 I Make no mention of Diamonds of three Carats, the price thereof being fuf- 
 ficiently known. 
 
 Firft then, as to others above that weight, you muft know how much the Dia- 
 mond weighs, and fee if it be perfect 3 if it be a thick Stone, well-fquar'd, and 
 have all its corners, if the water be white and lively, without fpecks and flaws. 
 If it be a Stone cut in Facets, which we call a Rofe-Diamond, you muft take no- 
 tice whether the form be round or oval, whether it be of a fair breadth, and not 
 of Stones clapt tog -i her 5 Whether it be of a good water, and without (pecks or 
 flaws. 
 
 Such a Stone weighing one Carat, is worth 1 5-0 Livres or more. Now to know 
 how much a Stone of the ft me perfection, weighing 12 Carats, is worth. 
 
 Multiply 12 by 12, it makes 144. Then multiply 144 by ijo, which is the 
 price of a Stone of one Carat, it comes to 21600 Livres. 
 
 As for Example. 
 1 2 
 
 144 
 1 50 
 
 7200 
 
 M 4 
 
 21600 livres. 
 
 To know the price of imperfect Diamonds, you muft obferve the lame rule, 
 grounded upon the price of a Stone of one Carat. 
 
 You have a Diamond of fifteen Carats (hewn ye, neither of a good water, nor 
 good form, and full of fpecks and flaws befides : fuch a Diamond cannot be worth 
 above 60, or 80, or 100 Livres at moft, according to the goodnefs of the Stone. 
 Multiply therefore the weight of the Diamond of if Carats by : then multi- 
 ply the product, which is i2j,by the value of the Stone of one Carat, which we 
 will grant to be 80 Livres^ che product whereof is 10000 Livres, the price of a 
 Diamond of ij Carats. 
 
 The 
 
Bookll. Travels hi India. 143 
 
 The Example, 
 
 75 
 1 5 
 
 12 j 
 
 8 o 
 
 I o o o o livres. 
 
 By that it is eafy to difcover the difference between a perfect and an imperfect 
 Stone. For if that Stone of i j Carats were perfect, the fecond multiplication 
 ihould be wrought by iyo, which is the price of a perfect Stone of one Carat : 
 and then the Diamond would come not to ioooo Livres, but to 337^0 Livres, 
 that is 237^0 Livres more than an imperfect Diamond of the fame weight. 
 
 By this rule obferve the price of two the greateft Diamonds of the World for 
 Cut-ftones, the one in Afia, belonging to the Great Mogul; the other in Europe, 
 in the pc ffeflion of the Duke of Tuft any. 
 
 The Great Mogul's Diamond weighs 279 and 9 16th Carats. It is of a perfect 
 good water, of a good fhape, with only a little flaw in the edg of the cutting be- 
 low, which goes round about the Stone. Without that flaw, the firft Carat were 
 worth 160 Livres, but for that reafon I reckon it not at above 1 jo $ and fo by the 
 rule it comes to 11723278 Livres, 14 Sous, and 3 Liards. Did the Diamond 
 weigh no more than 279 Carats, it would not be worth above 1167615-0 Livres, 
 fo that the nine i6ths comes to 47128 Livres, 14 Sous, and 3 Liards. 
 
 The Great Duke of Tufcanfs Diamond weighs 139 Carats, clean and well- 
 fhap'd, cut in facets every way : but in regard the water enclines fomewhat to- 
 ward the colour of Citron, I do not value the firft Carat above 13 j Livres } fo 
 that by the rule the Diamond ought to be worth 26083 3 S Livres. 
 
 A Diamond by the Miners is call'd Iri, which the Turks, Perjians and Arabians 
 call Almas. 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 Of Colour 'd Stones, and the T laces where they are found. 
 
 THere are but two places in all the Eaft where Colour d-Stones are found, 
 within the Kingdom of Pegu, and the Hland of Ceylan. The firft is a Moun- 
 tain twelve days journey, or there-abouts, from Siren, toward the North-eaft; 
 the name whereof is Capelan. In this Mine are found great quantities of Rubies, 
 and Efpinels, or Mothers of Rubies, yellow Topazes, blew and white Saphirs, Ja- 
 cinths, Amethyfts, and other Stones of different colours. Among thefe Stones 
 which are hard, they find other Stones of various colours, that are very foft, 
 which they call Bacan in the language of the Countrey, but are of little or no 
 efteem. 
 
 Siren is the name of the City where the King of Pegu refides j znd'Ava is the 
 Port of his Kingdom. From Ava to Siren you go by water in great flat-bottom'd- 
 Barks, which is a voyage of fixty days. There is no going by land, by reafon the 
 Woods are full of Lions, Tigers, and Elephants. It is one of the pooreft Coun- 
 treys in the World, where there is no Commodity but Rubies ; the whole Re- 
 venue whereof amounts not to above a hunder'd-thoufand Crowns. Among 
 all the Stones that are there found, you (hall hardly fee one of three or four Ca- 
 rats 
 
144 Travels in India. Part II- 
 
 rats that is abfolutely clean, by reafon that the King ftridtly enjoyns his Subjects 
 not to export them out of his Dominions ; befides that, he keeps to himfelf all the 
 clean Stones that are found. So that I have got very confiderably in my Travels, 
 by carrying Rubies out of Europe into Aft*. Which makes me very much fufpect 
 the relation of Vincent Le Blanc, who reports that he faw in the King's Palace 
 Rubies as big as eggs. 
 
 All Rubies are fold by weights, which are call'd Ratis; that is, three grains and 
 a half, or feven Zths of a Carat : and the payments are made in old Pagods. 
 A Ruby weighing one Ratis, has been fold for Pagods 20 
 A Ruby of 2 Ratis and one 8tt>, Pagods ^ 
 A Ruby of 3 Ratis and one <\tb> Pagods i8j 
 A Ruby of 4 Ratis and five Kths, Pagods 
 A Ruby of f Ratis, Pagods 
 
 A Ruby of 6 Ratis and a half, Pagods 920 
 If a Ruby exceed fix Ratis, and be a perfect Stone, there is no value to be let 
 upon it. 
 
 The Natives of the Countrey call all Colour'd- Stones Rubies, diftinguifhing 
 them only by the colour. Saphirs they call Blue-Rubies, Amethyfts they cali 
 Violet-Rubies, Topazes Yellow-Rubies ; and fb of other Stones. 
 
 The other place where Rubies are found, is a River in the Ifland of Ceylan, 
 which defcends from certain high Mountains in the middle of the Ifland ; which 
 fwells very high when the rains fall - 3 but when the waters are low, the people 
 make it their bufinefs to fearch among the Sands for Rubies, Saphirs and Topazes. 
 All the Stones that are found in this River, are generally fairer and clearer than 
 thofe of Pegu. 
 
 I forgot to tell you that there are fome Rubies, but more Balleis-Rubies, and an 
 abundance of Baftard-Rubies, Saphirs and Topazes found in the Mountains that 
 run along from Pegu to the Kingdom of Camboj.i. 
 
 Colonr'd-Stones are alfo' found in fome parts of Europe, as in Bohemia and Hun- 
 gary. In Hungary there is a Mine where they find certain Flints of different big- 
 nefs, fome as big as eggs,, fome as big as a man's filr, which being broken, contain 
 a Ruby within as hard and as clean as thofe of Pegu. 
 
 In Hungary there is a Mine of Opals, which Stone is no- where elfe to be found 
 in the World but there. 
 
 The Tmrquoife is no-where to be found but in Perjia. Where there are two 
 Mines. The one is called the Old-Rock^, three days journey from Meched, toward 
 the North- weft, near a great Town which goes by the name of Mlchabourg. The 
 other which is call'd the New-Roc/^ is five days journey off. Thofe of the New- 
 Rock are of a paler blue enclining to white, and lefs efteem'd, fo that you may- 
 have a great many for a little Money. Some years fince the King of Perjia com- 
 manded that no Turquoifes fhould be digg'd out of the Old-Roc^, but only for him- 
 felf; making ufe of thofe Turquoifes inftead of enamelling, to adorn Hilts of 
 Swords, Knives and Daggers ; of which the Perfians are altogether ignorant. 
 
 As for Emraulds, it is a vulgar error to fay they come originally from the Eafh 
 And therefore when Jewellers and Gold-fmiths, to prefer a deep-colour'd Km-' 
 rauld enclining to black, tell ye, it is an Oriental Emrauld, they fpeak that which 
 is not true. I confefs I could never difcover in what part of our Continent thofe 
 Stones are found. But fure I am, that the Eaftern-part of the World never pro- 
 duc'd any of thofe Stones, neither in the Continent, nor in the Iflands. True it is, 
 that fince the difcovery of America fome of thofe Stones have been often brought 
 rough from Peru to the Pbilippine-lHands, whence they have been tranfported in- 
 to Europe ; but this is not enough to make them Oriental. Befides that, at this 
 time they fend them into Spain through the North-Sea. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Book II 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 Of Tearls, and the Tlaces where they FiJJj for them. 
 
 IN the firft place, there is a Fifhery for Pearls in the Perftan Gulf, round 
 about the Ifland of Bakren. It belongs to the King of Perfia, and there is 
 a ftrong Fort in it, Garrifon'd with three hundred men. The Water which 
 the people drink in that Ifland, and all along the Coaft of Perfia, is brackifh 
 and ill-tafted, fo that only the Natives of the Country can drink it. Frefh wa- 
 ter cofts Strangers very dear ; for the people fetch it fometimes one League, 
 fbmetimes two Leagues from the Ifland, from the bottom of the Sea, being 
 let down by a Rope, with a Bottle or two ty'd about their waftes , which 
 they fill, and ftop it well ; and then giving the Rope a twitch, are hall'd up 
 again by their Companions. 
 
 Every one that fifties pays to the King of Perfia five AbafiPs, Whether he 
 get any thing or no. The Merchant alfo pays the King fome fmall matter 
 ibr every thoufand Oyfters. 
 
 The fecond Fifhery for Pearls is right againft Bakren upon the Coaft of Ara- 
 bia, the happy, near the City of Cat if a, which together with all the Country 
 about it, is under the Jurifdiftion of an Arabian Prince. The Pearls that are 
 fifh'd in thefe places are fold to the Indians , who are not fo nice as We 5 
 for they give a good price for all, as well the uneven as the round ones. Ov&r 
 all Afia they chufe the yellow Water enclining to white; for they fay thole 
 Pearls that encline fomewhat to a Gold colour, are more brisk, and never 
 change colour ; but that the white ones will change in thirty-year* timej 
 throughthe very heat of the weather and the fweat of the perfon that wears them, 
 turning the fcandaloufly yellow. 
 
 There is a wondrous Pearl in the poffeffion of an Arabian Prince, that took 
 Mafcate from the Portugals. He then call'd himfelf Imenhett Prince of Maf- 
 cate ; being known before only by the name of Acepb Ben-Ali Prince of No- 
 rennae. It is but a fmall Province, but it is the beft of all in the Happy Ara- 
 bia. Therein grow all things neceflary for the life of man ; particularly, de- 
 licate fruits, but more efpecially moft excellent Grapes, which would make 
 moft incomparable Wine. This Prince has. the moft wonderful Pearl in the 
 world, not fo much for its bignefs, for it weighs not above twelve Carats and 
 one fixteenth, nor for its perfect roundnefs, but becaufe it is fo clear and fo 
 tranfparent that you may almoft fee through it. The Great Mogul oifer'd him 
 by a Banian forty thoufand Crowns for his Pearl, but he would not accept 
 it. By which you fee, that it xs more profitable to carry Jewels that are rare 
 out of Europe into Afia, than to bring them out of Afia into Europe 5 unlets 
 it be to Japan or China, where Jewels are little efteem'd. 
 
 There is another Fifhery for Pearls in the Sea that beats againft the Walls 
 of a great Town call'd Manor, in the Ifland of Ceylan. For their roundnefs and 
 their Water, they are the faireft that are found in any other Fifhery j but they 
 rarely weigh above three or four Carats. 
 
 There are excellent Pearls, and of a very good water, and large, which are 
 found upon the Coaft of Japan j but there are few fifh'd for, in regard Jewels 
 are of no efteem among the Natives. 
 
 There are other Fifheries in the Weft Indies ; in the firft place all along the 
 Ifland of Cubagna, three Leagues in compafs, lying ten Degrees and a half of 
 Northern Latitude, a hundred and fixty Leagues from Santo Domingo. The Pearls 
 are fmall, feldom weighing above five Carats. 
 
 The fecond Fifhery is in the Ifland of Manguerita, or the Ifland of Pearls, 
 a League from Cubagna, but much bigger. This Fifhery is not the moft plen- 
 tiful, but it is t'ae moft efteem'd of all thofe in the Weft Indies, by reafon the 
 Pearls are of moft excellent water, and very large. I fold one Pear-fafhion'd 
 to Sba-Efi-Kan, the Great Moguls Uncle, that weigh'd fifty-five Carats. 
 
 * V The 
 
146 Tir- "Is in. India. Part. II 
 
 The third Fiihery is at Camog«te 3 near the Continent. 
 
 The.foufiii at Rio de la Hatha, all along the fame Coaft. 
 
 The fifth and laft, at St. Marthas, fixty Leagues from Rio de la Hacha, All 
 thefe three Fifheries produce very ighty Pearls j but they are generally ill- 
 fhap'd, and of a water enclining to the, colour of Lead. 
 
 As for Scotch Pearl, and thofe that are found in the Rivers of Bavaria, tho 
 a Neck-lace of them may be worth a thoufand Crowns ,- yet they are riot 
 to be compar'd with the Eaftern and Weft Indian Pearls. 
 
 Some years fince there was a Fifhery difcover'd in a certain place upon the 
 the Coaft of fapatt, and I have feen fome which the Hollanders have brought 
 thence. They are of a very good water, and large, but very uneven. 
 
 Take this obfervation along with you, touching the difference of their wa- 
 ters ; fome being very white, others inclining to yellow, others to black, others 
 to a leaden colour. As 'for the laft, there are no fuch but only in America, 
 which proceeds from the nature of the Earth at the bottom of the Water, 
 which is generally more ouzy than in the Eaft. I once met with fix Pearls in 
 the return of a Cargo from the Weft Indies that were perfectly round, but 
 black like jet, which weigh'd one with another twelve Carats. I carried them 
 into the Eaft Indies to put them off, but could meet with no Chapman to 
 buy them. As for thofe that incline to yellow, it proceeds from hence, that 
 the Fifhermen felling the Oyfters to the Merchants in heaps, while they ftay 
 fourteen or fifteen days till the Oyfters Jofe their water, the Oyfters waft and be- 
 gin to fmell, for which reafon the Pearl grows yellow by infection, which ap- 
 pears to be a truth, in regard that where the Oyfters preferve their liquor the 
 Pearls are white.- Now the reafon why they ftay till the Oyfters open of them- 
 felves, is becaufe that if they fhould force them open, they might perhaps in- 
 jure and cut the Pearl. In fhort, the Eaftern people are much of our humour 
 in matter of whitenefs, for they love the whiteft Pearls and the blackeft Dia- 
 monds ; the whiteft bread, and the faireft women. 
 
 CHAP. XVIII. 
 
 How the 'Pearls are bred in the Oyfters ; hvW they FiJIj for them, 
 
 and at what time. 
 
 SOme ancient Writers have vulgarly reported, that Pearis are produc'd by 
 the Dew of Heaven, and that there is but one in an Oylfer ; but experience 
 teaches the contrary. For the Oyfter never ftirs from the bottom of the Sea, 
 where the Dew can never come, which is many times twelve fathoms deep ; 
 befides, that it is as often obferv'd, that there are fix or feven Pearls in one 
 Oyfter j and I have had in my hands an Oyfter, wherein there were above ten 
 beginning to breed. 'Tis very true, rhat they are not always of the fame bigneft } 
 for they grow in an Oyfter after the fame manner as Eggs in the Belly of a 
 Pullet. Bat I cannot fay there are Pearls in all, for you may open many Oyfters 
 and find none. 
 
 'Tis no advantage to them that fifh for Pearls j for if the poor people could 
 find any other employment, they would never ftick to fuch a one as meerly keeps 
 them alive. But the Land is fo barren, that you may travel twenty Leagues before 
 yon meet with one blade of Grafs ; and the people are fo miferably poor, that 
 they feed upon nothing but Dates and Salt-fifh. 
 
 They fifh in the Eaftern Seas twice a year •, the firft time in March and April, 
 the fecond time in Augxfi and September-, and they keep their Fairs in fme- 
 and November. However they do not fifh every year ; for they that fifh, will 
 Know beforehand whether it will turn to account or no. Now to the end they 
 may not be deceiv'd, they fend to the" places where they are wont to fifh, 
 feven or eight Barks, who bring back each of them about a thoufand Oyfters, 
 
 which 
 
Book II. 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 which they open, and if they find not in every thoufand Oyfters to the value 
 of five Fano's of Pearl, which amounts to half a Crown of our Money, 'tis a 
 fign that the Fifhing will not turn to account, in regard the poor people would 
 not be able to defray their charge. For partly for a ftock to fct out, and partly 
 for victuals while they are abroad, they are fore'd to borrow Money at three 
 and four in the hundred a month. So that unlefs a thoufand Oyfters yeild 
 them five Fano's of Pearls, they do not fifh that year. As for the Merchants., 
 they muft buy their Oyfters at hap-hazard, and be content with what they 
 find in them. If they meet with great Pearls, they account themfelves happy j 
 which they feldom do at the Fifhery of Manor, thofe Pearls being fit for little 
 elfe but to be fold by the Ounce, to powder. Sometimes a thoufand Oyfters a- 
 mounts to (even Fano's, and the whole Fifhery to a hundred thoufand Piafters. 
 The Hollanders take of every Diver eight Piafters, in regard they always attend 
 the Fifhery with two or three final 1 Men of War, to defend them from the 
 Malavares Pyrats. 
 
 The more Rain falls in the year, the more profit-able the Fifhery happens to 
 be. They fifh in twelve fathom water, five or fix Leagues off at Sea, fome- 
 times two hundred and fifty Barks together, among which there is not above 
 one or two Divers at molt. 
 
 There is a Cord ty'd under the Arms of them that dive, one end whereof is 
 held by them that are in the Bark. There is alfo a great ftone of eighteen or 
 twenty pound ty'd to the great Toe of him that dives ; the end of the Rope 
 that faftens it being alfo held by them in the Veflel. The Diver has befidea 
 Sack made like a Net, the mouth whereof is kept open with a Hoop. Thus 
 provided, he plunges into the Sea, the weight of the ftone prefently, finking 
 him j when he is at the bottom, lie flips off the ftone, and the Bark puts off! 
 Then the Diver goes to filling his Sack, as long as he can keep his breath 5 
 which when he can do no longer, he gives the Rope a twitch, and is prefently 
 hall'd up again. Thoi'e of Manar are better Fifhers, and ftay longer in the wa- 
 ter than thofe of Bakren and Cat if a 5 for they neither put Pincers upon their 
 Nofes, nor Cotton in their Ears, as they do in the Persian Gulf. 
 
 After the Diver is draw'n up, he ftays half a quarter of an hour to take 
 breath, and then dives again, for ten or twelve hours together. As for the 
 Oyfters themfelve$, they throw em away, as being ill-tafted and unfavoury. 
 
 To conclude the difcourfe of Pearls, yon are to take notice, that in Europe 
 they fell them by the Carat weight, which is four Grains. In Terfia they fell 
 them by the Abas, and one Abas is an eighteenth lefs than our Carat. In the 
 Dominions of the Moguls the Kings of Vtfapour and Golconda weigh them, by 
 the Ratis, and one Ratis is alfo an eighteenth lefs than our Carat. 
 
 Goa was formerly the greateft place of the world for the trade of Jewels 
 and Pearls. You friuft know therefore, that in Goa ) and in all other places which 
 the Portugals had in the Indies, they us'd a particular weight to (ell their Pearls 
 by, which they call Chego's j the proportion whereof to Carats appears in the 
 following Table. 
 
 Carats 
 
Travels in India. 
 
 Part II 
 
 Carats. 
 
 Cbeg 
 
 os. 
 
 Carats. 
 
 Cbeg 
 
 os. 
 
 9~ 
 
 10 . 
 
 ii 
 
 I*- 
 
 i?- 
 
 '4 
 
 If 
 
 17- 
 18. 
 19. 
 20- 
 
 • 1 1 and a half 
 16 
 21 
 
 ■27 
 
 ■34 
 44 
 
 £ 6 
 
 .84 
 100 
 117 
 
 ■ 136 
 i 5 6 
 
 ■ 177 & 3 quart. 
 
 ■ 20a & a half 
 22/ 
 
 25-0 & a half 
 2776c 3 quar. 
 
 21 — 
 
 22 — 
 
 23 — 
 24- 
 
 2j-~- 
 26- 
 27 — 
 28- 
 29 — 
 
 3°- 
 3i- 
 32- 
 
 33~ 
 34- 
 
 36- 
 
 K - 
 38- 
 39- 
 40 _. 
 
 — 306 
 -336 
 
 -367 & a quarter 
 
 -400 
 
 -430 
 
 -469 5c a quarter 
 
 — J06 & a quarter 
 
 — J44 6c a quarter 
 -J84 
 
 — 625- 
 
 ~ 667 6c a quart. 
 -711 
 
 — 7^6 and a quart: 
 
 — 8ox and 3 quart. 
 
 — 8yo and a quart. 
 
 — 900 
 
 — 9 jo and a half 
 
 — 1 002 and 3 quar, 
 -icj6 
 
 — 1 1 1 i andaquar. 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 
 Observations upon the fair eft and large ft "Diamonds and Rubies which 
 the Author has ft en in Europe and Afia, represented according to the 
 Figures in the Tlites ; as al'o upon thofe wfjich the Author fold to the 
 Kin ^ upon his laff yet urn jrom the Indies : with the Figure of a 
 large Topaz, and the fair eft Tear Is in the World. 
 
 Number 1. 
 
 THis Diamond belongs to the Great Mogul, being cut into the fame form j and 
 it weighs 319 Ratis and an half, which make 279 and nine xGths of our Ca- 
 rats : when it was rough, it weigh'd 907 Ratis, which make 793 Carats. 
 
 Numb. 2. 
 
 Is the figure of a Diamond belonging to the Great Duke of Tufiany. It weighs 
 139 Carats and an half: the fault of it is, that the water enclines fomewhat to a 
 Citron-colour. 
 
 Numb. 3. 
 
 Is a Stone that weighs 176 and one 8tt> MangeKns, which makes 242 Carats and 
 five t6ths. A Mangelin coming to one and three %tbs of our Carats. Being at 
 Golconda I law this Stone j and it was the biggeft that ever I faw in my life in a 
 Merchant's-hands. It was valu'd at j 00000 Roupies, or 750000 Livres of our 
 Money : I offer'd 400000 Roupies, but could not have it. 
 
 Numb. 4. 
 
 Is the figore of a Diamond which I bought at Amadabat 5 and it weigh'd 178 
 Ratis, or 157 Carats and a quarter. 
 
 Numb, 5; 
 
/ 
 
• 1*/ 
 
 m ■ i 
 
 f \ ^ 1 
 
 
 
 
 tip 1 ■"*' •■ 
 •4*;- . ; ,' ! .4 v \i 
 
 'Hil ■ J - 
 
 
 ft' p 
 
 Is th - «gure of a Ruby j fold for fuch to Giafer-Kan, the Great yJ/o- 
 
 guh Uncle, who paid 95-0000 Roupies, or 1425-000 Livres for it. But an old In- 
 dian Jeweller affirming afterwards, that it was no Ballets Ruby, that it was not 
 worth above 5-00 Roupies, and that Giafer-kan was cheated j and his opinion being 
 confirm'd by Sba-jehan, the moft skilful in Jewels of any perfon in the Empire, 
 jlureng-x.eb compell'd the Merchant to take it again, and to reftore the Money 
 back. ! 1 
 
 Numb. i 3 and 4. 
 
 Is is the Figure of Ruby belonging to the King of Vifapour. Numb. 4, is 
 the height of the Stone above the Gold. And Numb. 3, is the roundnefs of the 
 
Book II Travels in India. 14.2 
 
 — .CvrA £ {*H*»*f b lift:; aunsO iraMfrevw to ^nite^flEM ntwitodl sdsi^w 3l uses?? k 
 ■:, t ± • >1 v/30 00x4.1 S nitf odjtfwh J-gnjBiy ??a-spd j :•. 
 
 Is the figure of the fore-mention'd Diamond, after it was cut on both fides • 
 there remaining 94 Carats and a half; the water being perfect. The flat- fide 
 where there were two flaws below, was as thin as a meet of brown-paper : When 
 the Stone was cut, I caus'd^ll that thin fide to be taken pff, with one part of the 
 end above, where there remains one little fpeck of a flaw. 
 
 Numb. 6, . . 
 
 Is another Diamond which I bought at the Mine of Coulour. It is fair and 
 clean, and weighs 36 Mangelins, or 63 and 3 8ths of our Carats, 
 
 t I bib ion ita^ftYTs. 3E5nO orh ot_ .nn&nobd scqoT 3£Ttp 6 io STijsft! bib al 
 IT 1 Numb. 7 find *. ; ■ , 
 
 B( •~ .8;; J }ii.i!g-^di biuj 85/n«0 -io „raicup c 'jffrf fcriB vhtfi 181 stfebw 
 
 Are two pieces of a Stone that was cut in two, which be;ng entire_, weigh'd 
 Mangelins and a half, or 104 Carats. Though it were of a good water, it ieeui'd 
 f foul in the middle, that, in regard it was large, and held at a high price, there 
 was ne're a Baman would venture upon it: At length an Hollander bought it, 
 and cutting it in two, found in the middle of it eight Carats of filth like a rotten- 
 wee^, The fmall piece happen'd ( j:o be clean, excepting a little flaw hardly to be 
 pc rceiv'd, but for the other, wherein there are fo many other crofs flaws, there 
 was fio way but to make feven o=r eight pieces of it. The Hollander ran a great 
 rtf :uttirig it a-funder ; for it was very great luck that it had not broke into 
 3b indeed pieces. Yet for all that it did not turn to account 3 fo that it is in vain 
 for another to buy that which a Baman refufes. 
 
 CKAP. XX. 
 
 The Terms of twenty Rubies which the Author fold to the King 
 upon his laft return from the Indies. The frjl part of the 'Plate 
 Jbews the weight, extent, and thickness of every Stone. 
 
 £91110) <\ -..tW .bill Vu:;a^-» ; A.(^ $0>tf k' 1 ' ImVfi lo witfH "adj »f 
 
 Numb. r. 
 
 TS the Figure of a Ruby that belongs to the King of Perfia. It is in ftiape 
 ^ and bignefs like an Egg, boar'd through in the middle, deep colour'd, fair 
 and clean, except one flaw in the fide. They will not tell you what it coft, 
 nor let you know what it weighs; only it appears: by , the Regifter that it 
 has been feveral years in the Kings Treafury, 
 
 9K '31£Q ''iyfiol tjflj 2£ 2j>fUflI»b I'"L'j'i' ' fll flO 'ill I '"''li^d ll L ( '3'N 
 
 Numb. 2. 
 
 Is the Figure of a Ballets Ruby ; fold for fuch to Giafer-Kan 3 the Great Mo- 
 guls Uncle, who paid 950000 Roupies, or 1425000 Livres for it. But an old In- 
 dian Jeweller affirming afterwards, that it was no Ballets Ruby, that it was not 
 worth above 5-00 Roupies, and that Giafer-k^nwas cheated 3 and his opinion being 
 confirm'd by Sha-jehan, the moft skilful in Jewels of any perfon in the Empire, 
 \Atireng-z.eb compelPd the Merchant to take it again, and to reftore the Money 
 back. 3 
 
 Numb. 3^ and 4. 
 
 Is is the Figure of Ruby belonging to the King of Fifapour. Numb. 4, is 
 the height of the Stone above the Gold. And Numb. 3, is the roundnefs of the 
 
 Beazil; 
 
"Travels in India. Part II. 
 
 Beazil. It weighs fourteen Mangel ins, or feventeen Carats and a half j a Fifa- 
 pour Mangel. ii being but rive Grains. It coft the King 14200 new Pagods, or 
 
 7455° LivTes - 
 
 Numb. 5. 
 
 Is the Figure of a Ruby that a Banian fhew'd me at Banarous ; it weighs 
 58 Rati's, or 50 Carats and 3 quarters; being of thefecond rank in beauty. In 
 fhape it is like a Plump Almond, bor'd through at the end. I offer'd 40000 
 Roupies, or 60000 Livres for it 5 but the Merchant demanded 55000 Roupie.s. 
 
 Numb. 6. 
 
 Is the Figure of a great Topaz belonging to the Great Mogul; nor did I 
 fee him wear any other but that, all the while I was jn India. This Topaz 
 weighs 181 Rati's and half a quarter, or 157 Carats and three quarters. It 
 was bought at Goa for the Great Mogul, and coft 1 81000 Roupies, or 271500 
 Livres of our Money. 
 
 Numb. 7, 8, 9. 
 
 Are the Figures of three feveral Rubies belonging to the King of Framl 
 
 Numb. 1. 
 
 Is the Figure of a Pearl which the King of Perfia bought at the Fifhery of 
 Catifa in Arabia. It coft him 32000 Tomans, or 1400000 Livres of our Money, 
 at forty-fix Livres and fix Deneers to a Toman. It is the faireft and molt per- 
 fect Pearl -that ever was yet found to this hour, having no defect. 
 
 Numb. 2. 
 
 Is the Figure of the biggeft Pearl that ever I few in the Court of the Great 
 Mogul. It hangs about the artificial Peacocks neck that adorns his great Throne. 
 
 Numb. 3. 
 
 Is the Figure of a Pearl that I fold to Cha-Eft-Kan ; the Water is fome- 
 what faint, but it is the biggeft Pearl that was ever carried out of Europe into 
 
 Numb. 4. 
 
 Is a great perfect Pearl, as well for its Water as for its form, which is like 
 an Olive. It is in the midft of a Chain of Emraulds and Rubies, which the Great 
 Mogul wears 5 which being put on , /the Pearl dangles at the lower part of 
 his Breaft, 
 
 Numb. y. 
 
 Is a Pearl perfectly round, the biggeft I ever few, and belongs to the Great 
 M'-gd. The like could, never be found} for which reafbn the Great Mogul lays 
 it up verv chat ily, and never ufes it. For if it could be match'd, both would 
 make a Pair of Pendants for the Ears, fet between Rubies or Emraulds, accor- 
 ding to the cuftom of the Country j there being no perfon of any quality that 
 does not wear a Pearl between two colour'd Stones in his Ear, 
 
 CHAP. 
 
I 
 
Book II. Travels in India. 
 
 CHAP. XX T . 
 
 Of Coral, and Yellow Amber, and the places where it is found. 
 
 COraJ, but little valu'd in Europe, is highly efteem'd in all the three other parts 
 of the^ World j and there are three places where they fifh for it upon the Coaft 
 of Sardigna. That of Arguerrel is the faireft of all. The fecond place is calPd 
 Boz.a j and the third is neer the Ifland of St. Peter. There are two other places 
 upon the Coaft of France } the one neer the Baftion of France; the other at Ta- 
 barque. There is alfo another Fifhery upon the Coaft of Sicily, neer Trepano, but 
 the Coral is fmall, and ill-colour'd. There is another upon the Coaft of Catalogna f 
 neer Cape de J§hiier$ ; where the Coral is large, and of an excellent colour, but 
 the branches are fhort. There is a ninth Fifhery in the Ifland of Majorque, much 
 like that neer the Ifland of Crfca. And thefe are all the places in the Mediter- 
 ranean-Sea, where they fifh for Coral ; for there is none at all in the Ocean. 
 
 Becaufe that Coral grows under the hollow Rocks where the Sea is deep, the 
 Fiftiers fix two (pars of wood a-crofs, faitening a great piece of Lead in the mid- 
 dle to make it fink : after tha: they wind carelefiy about the fpar good ftore of 
 tufted Hemp, and faften the wood to two Cords, one end whereof hangs at the 
 Poop, the other at the Prow of the Velfel. Then letting go the wood with the 
 ftream or current by the fides of the Rock, the Hemp twifts it felf among the 
 Coral, fo that fometimes they ftand in need of five or fix Boats to pull up the 
 wood again : and if one of the Cables fhould chance to break with the ftrels, all 
 the Rowers are in danger to be loft. While they tear up the Coral thus by force, 
 there tumbles as much into the Sea as they fetch up : and the bottom of the Sea 
 being generally very ouzy, the Coral will be eaten as our fruits are eaten by the 
 worms 5 fo that the fooner they get it out of the mud, the lefs it will be wa- 
 fted. 
 
 This puts me in mind of one thing that I faw at Marseilles in a Shop where 
 they dealt in Coral. It was a great piece of Coral, as big about as a man's fiftj 
 which becaufe it was a little worm-eaten, was cut in two pieces. When it was 
 fo cut, there was a worm that ftirr'd, and had life, and liv'd for fome months after, 
 being again put into the hole. For among fome branches of Coral there engen- 
 ders a kind of fpongy-matter, like our honey-combs, where thefe worms lye like 
 bees. 
 
 Some think that Coral is foft in the Sea, though in truth it be hard. But this 
 indeed is as true., that in certain months of the year you may fqueze out of the 
 end of a branch a kind of milky-fubftance; and this perhaps may be a kind of 
 feed, which falling upon any thing that it firft meets with in the Sea (as if it light 
 upon a dead Skull, the blade of a Sword, or a Pomgranate^) produces another 
 branch of Coral. And I have feen a Pomgranate, and had it in my hand, that had 
 fallen into the Sea, about which the Coral had twin'd at leaft half a foot high. 
 
 Thev fifli for Coral from the beginning of April to the end of Inly ; to which 
 purpofe there are employ 'd above 200 Veflels, lbme years more, and fome years 
 lefs. They are built all along the River of Genoa, being very fwift. Their fails 
 are very large for more fwiftnefs, fo that there are no Gallies can reach them. 
 There are feven men and a boy to every Barque. They never fifh above forty 
 miles from the Land, where they think there are Rocks, for fear of the Pyrats, 
 from which they make all the Sail they can when they fee them, and eafily fcape 
 them through the nimblenefs of their Veffels. 
 
 I have one obfervation to make concerning Coral, in refpeft of the Eaftern- 
 people. The Japonners make little account of Jewels or Pearls ; valuing nothing 
 ib much as a good grain of Coral, wherewith they pull the ftring that fhuts their 
 Purfes, fuch as we had formerly in England. So that they ftrive who fhall have 
 the faireft grain of Coral hanging at the end of the Silk-ftring that draws their 
 Purfes. For this reafon a piece of Coral as big as an egg, fair and clean without 
 any rkw, will produce what any man will ask in reafon for it. The Portuguefes. 
 
 have" 
 
Travels in India. Part. II. 
 
 have aflur'd me they would fometimes give 20000 Crowns for fuch a piece. And 
 no wonder they will give fo much Money for a piece of Coral, who defpifing all 
 other Jewels and Pearls, care for nothing but that which is in no efteem any where 
 elfe. They fet a great value upon the Skin of a certain Fifh which is rougher 
 than a Seal-skin. Upon the back of the Fifh there are fix little holes, and fome- 
 times eight, fomewhat elevated, with another in the middle ; in the form of a 
 Rofe. They make Scabberds for Swords of the Skin ; and the more thofe holes 
 grow in the form of a Rofe, the higher value they put upon them; having giv'n 
 ten-thoufand Crowns for a Skin. To conclude the difcourie of Coral, you mult 
 know that the meaner fort of people ufe it for Bracelets and Neck-laces all over 
 slfia, efpecially toward the Northern Territories of the Great Mogul 5 and all 
 along the Mountains as you go to the Kingdom of u4fen and Bom an. 
 
 Yellow- Amber is only found upon the Coaft of Pmjfia in the Baltick^Sea, where 
 the Sea throws it upon the Sand when fuch and fuch winds blow. The Elector 
 of Brandenburgh;vth.o is Sovereign of that Coaft, farms it out for 20000 Crowns 
 a year, and fometimes 22000. And the Farmers keep guards on both fides of 
 the fhoar, in regard the Sea cafts it up fometimes upon one fide, and fometimes 
 upon the other, to prevent the ftealing of it. 
 
 Amber is nothing but a certain congelation made in the Sen, like a certain Curm. 
 for you fhall find in feveral pieces, FJies, Gnats, and other infects congeal'd therein. 
 I faw feven or eight Flies fo congeal'd in one peice. 
 
 In China, when any great Lord makes a Feaft, it is for his Grandeur and Mag- 
 nificence to caufe three or four feveral forts of Perfuming-pots to be fet upon the 
 Table, and to throw into every one of them a valt quantity of Amber ; for the 
 more it burns, and the bigger the pieces are, the more magnificent is the Enter- 
 tainment accounted. The reafon of this cuftom is, becaufe they adore the-frre : j 
 and befides, that the Amber cafts forth a fcent pleafing to the Chinefes, there is 3 
 kind of Oil in it, that flames after a more unufual manner than other materials 6$ 
 fire. This waft of Amber makes it the belt Commodity that could be imported 
 into Chma } if the Trade were free for Strangers. At prefent the Hollanders have 
 engrofs'd all this Trade to themfelves, and the Chinefes come all to Batavia to 
 buy it. 
 
 As for Amber-grife ; there is no perfon in the World that knows either what it 
 is, or where, or how it is produc'd. But the faireft probability is., that it muft be 
 only in the Eaftern-Sea: though fome parcels have been found upon the Coaft of 
 England, and in fome other parts of Europe. The greateft quantity is found upon 
 theCoaft of Melindj,but more efpecially int he mouth of a River call'd Rio de Sena. 
 The Governor of Mozambique gets in the three years of his Government above 
 300000 Pardo's of Amber-grife, every Pardo containing 27 Sous of our Money. 
 Sometimes they meet with very large and very confiderable pieces. In the year 
 1627 a Portugal fetting Sail from Goa to the Manilles, after he had paft the 
 Streight of Malacca, was by tempeft driv'n near an unknown Ifland, where they 
 came to an Anchor. Several of the Ship's-Company ventring a-fhore, met with 
 a River; and going to bath themfelves in it., one of them found a great piece of 
 Amber-grife that weigh'd thirty-three pounds ; but falling together by the ears 
 about their fhares, the Captain, to reconcile them, told them 'twas pitty to deface 
 it, in regard it was a Prefent fit for the King ; and therefore advis'd them to prefent 
 it to the Vice-Roy, who would no doubt reward them for their pains. By that 
 means the Captain got the parcel out of their clutches, and prefenting it to the 
 Vice-Roy, got a reward for himfelf ; and the Party that found it : but the reft had 
 nothing at all. 
 
 In the year 1646 or 1647, a Middleburgher of good quality found a piece of 
 forty-two pounds upon the Coaft of the Ifland of St. Maurice, where he com- 
 manded for the Holland-Company, Eaft of the Ifland of St. Lawrence, and fent it 
 to Batavia i but there being a mark, as if fome piece of it were broken off, the 
 ZeUnder was accus'd to have taken half, and turn'd out of his Command, what- 
 ever he could fay to juftify himfelf. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Book II 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 CHAP. XXII. 
 Of Musk and Bezoar ; and [ome other Medicinal Siones. 
 
 TH E beft fort, and the greateft quantity of Musk, comes from the Kingdom 
 of Boutan, from whence they bring it to Patna, the chief City of Bengala^ 
 to truck it away for other Commodities. Al! the Musk that is fold in Perfin comes 
 . from thence. And the Musk-Merchants had rather deal with you for Coral and 
 Yellow-Amber, than for Gold or Silver j in regard the other is more in efteem 
 among the Natives where they live. I was fo curious as to bring the Skin of one 
 to Pans, of which I caus'd the figure to be cut. 
 
 After they have kill'd the creature, they cut off the bladder that grows under 
 the belly as big as an egg, neerer to the genital parts than to the navil. Then they 
 take out the Musk that is in the bladder, which at that time looks like clotted- 
 blood. When the Natives would adulterate their Musk, they ftuff the bladder 
 with the liver and blood of the Animal flic'd together, after they have taken out 
 as much of the right Musk as they think convenient. This mixture in two or 
 three years time produces certain Animals in the bladder that eat the good Musk j 
 fo that when you come to open it, there is a great waft. Others, fb foon as they 
 .have cut off the bladder, and taken out as much of the Musk, as that the deceit 
 may not be too palpable, fill up the Veflel with little ftones to make it weight. 
 The Merchants are lefs difpleas'd at this deceit than the former, by reafon that 
 they do not find the Musk to be eaten. But the deceit is harder to be difcover'd, 
 when they make little Purfes of the skin of the belly of the Beaft, which they 
 fow up with firings of the fame skin, which are like the true bladders ; and then, 
 fill thofe Purfes with what they have taken out of the right bladders, and the 
 other fraudulent mixture which they defign to put among it. True it is, that 
 mould they tye up the bladder fo foon as they cut it off, without giving it air or 
 time to lofe its force, the ftrength of the perfume would caufe the blood to gufh 
 out of the nofe, fb that it muft bequalifi'd to render it acceptable, or rather lefs 
 hurtful to the brain. The fcent of the Beaft which I carri'd to Paris, was fo 
 ftrong, that I could not keep it in my Chamber ; for it made all peoples heads ake 
 that came neer it. At length my Servants laid it in a Garret, and cut off the 
 bladder, and yet the (cent remain'd very ftrong. This creature is not to be found 
 in 65- degrees, but in 60 there are vaft numbers, the Countrey being all over co- 
 ver'd with Forrefts. True it is, that in the months of February and March, after 
 thefe creatures have endur'd a (harp hunger, by reafon of the great Snows that 
 fall where they breed,, ten or twelve foot deep, they will come to 44 or 4^ de- 
 grees to fill them themfelves with Corn and new Rice. And then it is that the 
 Natives lay gins and fnares for them to catch them as they go back : mooting 
 fbme with Bows, and knocking others o'the heads. Some have affur'd me that 
 they are fo lean and faint with hunger at that time, that you may almoft take 
 them running. There muft be furely a prodigious number of thefe creatures, none 
 of them having above one bladder no bigger than a Hen's-egg, which will not 
 yield above half an ounce of Musk : and fometimes three or four will not afford 
 an ounce 5 and yet what a world of Musk is bought up ? 
 
 The King of Boutan fearing that the cheats and adulterations of Musk would 
 fpoil the Musk-Trade, order'd that none of the Bladders fhould be fow'd up, but 
 that they fhould be all brought to Boutan, and there, after due infpedtion, be feal'd 
 up with his Seal. Yet notwithstanding all the warinefs and care of the King, they 
 will fometimes cunningly open them, and put in little pieces of Lead to augment 
 the weight. In one Voyage to Patna I bought 7673 bladders, that weigh'd 2yy7 
 ounces and an half ; and 45-2 ounces out of the bladder. 
 
 Bezoar comes from a Province of the Kingdom of Golconda toward the North- 
 eaft. It is found among the ordure in the paunch of a wild-Goat, that browzes 
 upon a certain Tree, the name whereof I have forgot. This fhrub bears little 
 buds, round about which, and the tops of the boughs, the Bezoar engenders in 
 
 * X the 
 
"Travels in India. Part II. 
 
 the maw "Of the Goat. It is ffiap'd according to the form of the buds cr tops of 
 the branches which the Goats eat : which is the reafon there are fo many (hapes 
 of Bezoar-Stoncs. The Natives, by feeling the belly of the Goat, know how 
 many Stones fhc has within, and fell the Goat according to the quantity. This 
 they will find out by Aiding their hands under their bellies, and then making both 
 fides of the paunch ; for the Stones will fall into the middle, where they may 
 eafily count them all by their feeling. 
 
 The rarity of Bezoar is in the bignefs ; r 1 yugh the fmall Bezoar has the fame 
 vertue as that which is larger. But there is more deceit in the large Bezoar 5 for 
 the Natives have got a trie!', to add to the bignefs of the Stone, with a certain 
 Parte compos'd of Gum, and fomething elle ot the colour of Bezoar. And they 
 are fo cunning too, to 11 s\ ; f juft like natural Bezoar. The cheat is found out 
 two ways ; the firit is by ghi&g the Bezoar, and then fteeping it in warm wa- 
 ter; if neither the water change colour, nor the Bezoar lofe any thing of its 
 veight, the Stone is right. The other way is to thrult a red-hot Bodkin of Iron 
 into the Stone ; if die Bodkin enters, and caufes it to fry, there is a mixture. Be- 
 zoar is dearer according to the bignefs of the Stones, advancing in price like Dia- 
 monds. For if five or fix Bezoars weigh an ounce, an ounce will be worth fifteen 
 or eighteen Franks ; but if it be a Stone of one ounce, that very ounce is well 
 worth ioo Franks. I have fold one of four ounces and a half for 2000 Li- 
 vres. 
 
 I have been very curious to inform my felf of all things that concern'd the 
 nature of Bezoar ; but could never learn in what part of the body of the Goat 
 it was to be found. One time among the reft, having oblig d feveral Native Mer- 
 chants by putting off for them a great quantity of Bezoar; upon my requeft, 
 though it be death without mercy to tranfport any of thefe Goats out of the 
 Countrey, they brought me fix Goats by ftealth to my lodging. When I ask'd 
 the price of them, I was furpriz'd, when they told me one was worth but three 
 Roupies ; that the two other were worth four Roupies ; and the three others 
 four and three quarters a piece. I ask'd them why fome were more w T orth than 
 others ; but I found afterwards that the firit had but one Bezoar, that the reft 
 had two, or three, or four. The fix Goats had in all ; ..teen Bezoars in them, 
 and a half ©ne a as big as the half of a Hazel-nut. The infide was like the foft 
 ordure of the Goat, the Bezoar lying among the dung, which is in the belly of 
 the Goat. Some averr'd that they grew right againft the liver, others right 
 againft the heart, but I could never find out the truth 
 
 As well in the Eaft, as Weft, there are a great quantity of Bezoars that breed 
 in the fame manner in Cows ; of which there hr^e been fome that have weigh'd 
 feventeen or eighteen ounces 5 For there was fuch a one that was giv'n to the Great 
 Duke of Tufcafip But thofe Bezoars are little efteem'd, fix grains of the other 
 Bezoar working more powerfully than thirty of this. 
 
 As for the Bezoar which breeds in Apes, as fome believe, it is fo ftrong, that two 
 grains work as eifecxually as fix of Goat's-Bezoar : but it is very fcarce, as being 
 only found in thole Apes that breed in the Ifland of Macaffur. This fort of Be- 
 zoar is round, whereas the other is of (everal fafhions, as I faid before. As the 
 Ape,: Bezoar is ftronger, and fcarcer than the Goats, fo it is dearer, and more 
 fougfe after ; a piece as big as a nut, being fometimes worth a hunder'd Crowns. 
 The Portugal* make great account of this Bezoar, ftanding always upon their 
 guard for fear of being poifon'd. 
 
 There is another Stone in great efteem, that is calPd the Porcupine's-Stone, 
 which that creature is faid to carry in its head, and is more precious than Bezoar 
 agaimt poifon. If it be fteepM in water a quarter of an hour, the water becomes 
 fo bitter, that nothing can be more bitter. There is alfo a Stone fometimes found 
 in the belly of that ere mre of the fame nature j and as good as that which comes 
 from the head ; nevertf ' with this ditference, that being fteep'd in water, it 
 lofes nothing of its weigh' or bulk, as the other does. I have bought in my 
 time three of thofe Stones. One of them coft me yoo Crowns, and I exchang'd 
 it to advantage. I paid four- / --der'd Crowns for the other, which I keep : the 
 other was fold me for 200 Crowns, which I prefented to a friend, 
 
 54 
 
 There 
 
Book II. Travels in India. * 155 
 
 There is the Serpent-Stone not to be forgot, about the bignefs of a double j 
 and ibme are almoft oval, thick in the middle, and thin about the fides. The /«- 
 dians report that it is bred in the head of certain Serpents. But I rather take it 
 to be a Story of the Idohter's Priefts, and that the Stone is rather a compofition 
 of certain drugs. Whatever it be, it is of excellent vertue to drive any venom 
 out of thofe that are bit by venomous creatures. If the perfon bit be not much 
 wounded, the place muft be incis'd ; and the Stone being appli'd thereto, will not 
 fall off till it has drawn all the poifon to it. To cleanfe it, you muft fteep it in 
 Womans-milk, or for want of that, in Cows-milk j after the Stone has lain ten or 
 twelve hours, the milk will turn to the colour of an Apoftemated matter. The 
 Arch-Bifhop of Goa carrying me to his Cabinet of Purities, (hew'd me one of 
 thefe Stones : and after he had affur'd me of the rare qualities it had, he gave it 
 me. Once as he crofs'd a Merfh in the Ifland of Saifete where Goa ftands, one of 
 the men that carri'd his Tallequis, being half naked, was bit by a Serpent, and heal'd 
 at the fame time. I bought feveral j but there are none but the Brammes that 
 fell them, which makes me believe that they compound them. There are two 
 ways to try whether the Serpent-Stone be true or falfe. The firft is, by putting 
 the Stone in your mouth, for then it will give a leap, and fix to the palate. The 
 other is, by putting it in a glafs full of water ; for if the Scone be true, the wa- 
 ter will fall a boyling, and rife in little bubbles up to the top of the Glafs. 
 
 There is another Stone, which is call'd the Serpent's-Stone with the hood. This 
 is a kind of Serpent that has a kind of a hood hanging down behind the head, as 
 it is reprefented in the Figure. And it is behind this hood that the Stof s is iound., 
 many times as big as a Pullet's-egg. There are fome Serpents both i ; Afia and 
 America, of a monftrous bignefs, 25- foot long ; as was that, the skin whereof is 
 kept in Batavia, which had fwallow'd a Maid of 1 8 years of age. Thefe Stones 
 are not found in any of thofe Serpents that are not at leaft two foot Jong;, This 
 Stone being rubb'd againft another Stone, yields a certain flime, which be- 
 ing drank in water by the perfon that has the poifon in his body, powerfully drives 
 it out. Thefe Serpents are no-where to be found but upon the Coafts of Mclinde^ 
 but for the Stones you may buy them of the Portuguese Mariners and Souldiers 
 that come from Mozambique 
 
 I 
 
 S X * 
 
 CHAPw 
 
Travels in India. Part. 11. 
 
 CHAP. XXIII. 
 
 Of the Places where they find their Gold both in Afia and America. 
 
 JApon, which confifts of feveral Iflands Eaftward of China, bending to the North, 
 fome people believing that Nipbon, which is the biggeft, is in a manner join'd to 
 the firm Land, is that Region of all Afia that yields the greateft quantity of Gold : 
 Though others believe it is found in the Ifland of Formofa, and carri'd thence to 
 fapon. For as long as the Hollanders have had the Ifland, they could never 
 yet tell what is the Trade of thatCoaft, whence they believe the Gold comes. 
 
 There comes alfo Gold from China, which the Chinefes exchange for the Silver 
 which is brought them. For price for price, they love Silver better than Gold ; 
 becaufe they have no Silver- Mines. Yet it is the coarfeft metal of all the Afia- 
 tjc/^GoId. 
 
 The Ifland of Celebes or Macajfar produces Gold aTfo, which is drawn out of 
 the Rivers, where it rowls among the Sand. 
 
 In the Ifland of Achen or Sumatra, after the rainy feafbn, when the Torrents are 
 wafted, they find veins of Gold in the Flints, which the waters warn down from 
 the Mountains that lye toward the North-eaft. Upon the Weft-fide of the Ifland^ 
 when the Hollanders come to lade their Pepper, the Natives bring them great 
 ftore of Gold, but very coarfe metal, if not worfe than that of China. 
 
 Toward the Thibet, which is the ancient Caucafas, in the Territories of a Raja, 
 beyond the Kingdom of Cachemir, there are three Mountains clofe one by another, 
 one of which produces excellent Gold, the other Granats, and the third Lapis- 
 Lazuli. 
 
 There is Gold alfo comes from the Kingdom of Tipra, but it is coarfe, almoft 
 as bad as that of China ; and thefe are all the places in Afia that produce Gold. 
 I fhall now fay fomething of the Gold of Africa, and the places where it is found 
 in greateft quantities. 
 
 Obferve by the way, that the Vice-Roy of Mozambique has under his Com- 
 mand the Governors of Sofala and Chepon-Goura. The firft of thefe two Go- 
 vernments lies upon the River Sene, fixty leagues from the Mouth of the River ; 
 and the other ten leagues higher. From the Mouth of the River to thofe very 
 places on each fide of the River, great numbers of Negro's inhabit, which are all 
 commanded by one Portuguese. The Portnguez.es have been Mafters of this 
 Countrey for many years, where they take upon them like Lords, and make War 
 one upon another for the flighteft occafions in the World ; fome of them having 
 under them five-thoufand Cafres, which are their Slaves. The Governor of Mo- 
 zambique furnifhes them with Calicuts, and all other neceflary Commodities 
 which they want, which he fells them at his own rates. When he enters upon 
 his Government he carries with him great quantities of all forts of Commodities, 
 especially Calicuts dy'd black. His Correfpondents alfo in Goa fend him every 
 year two Veflels, which he fends to Sofala, Chepon-Goura, and even as far as the 
 City of Monomotopa, the chief City of a Kingdom of the fame name, otherwife 
 call'd Vouvebaran, diftant from Chepon-Goura fifty leagues, or there-abouts. He 
 that commands all that Countrey, affumes the name cf Emperor of Mor.omotopa^ 
 extending his Dominions as far as the Confines of Frefier fohrfs Countrey. From 
 this Countrey of Monomotopa it is, that the moft pure and fineft Gold of all Africa. 
 comes : where they dig it with eafe out of the earth, not being put to labour 
 above two or three foot deep. In fome places of that Countrey which are not 
 inhabited by reafon of the fcarcity of water, the people find great pieces of Gold^ 
 of feveral forms and weights, upon the furface of the earth ; fome of which 
 weigh an ounce. One I have by me that weighs an ounce and a half, or there- 
 abouts. Being at Surat, I went to vifit the Embaffador of the King of the 
 Abjffins. He fhew'd us the Prefent which his Mailer had fent to the Great Mo- 
 gul, confiftingof fourteen ftately Horfes, the remainder of 30, the reft dying by 
 the way j and a great number of Slaves of both Sexes. But what was moft 
 
 remarka- 
 
Book II. Travels in India. 
 
 remarkable, was a natural Tree, all of Gold, two foot and four inches high, and 
 fix inches about in the ftock. It had ten or twelve branches, fome whereof fhot 
 out half a foot in length, and an inch about ; others much fmalJer. In fome 
 parts of the great branches appear'd certain bunches that refembl'd buds. The 
 roots of the Tree, which were alfo natural, were thick and fhort j the longeft not 
 exceeding four or five inches. 
 
 The Natives of Monomotopa knowing the time of the year that the Commo- 
 dities arrive, come to Sofala and Chepon-Goura to furnifh themfelves. Thither 
 alfo come the Cafres of other Provinces and Kingdoms for the fame purpofe. 
 Whereupon the Governors of thofe places (ell them what they want, truiting 
 them till the next year, when they oblige themfelves to bring their Gold, which 
 they are very pun&ual to do, for elfe there could be no Trade between them. 
 The Natives of Monomotopa never live long, by reafbn of the badnefs of the war 
 ters in the Gountrey : For at the age of five and twenty years they begin to be 
 dropfical fo that it is a great wonder if any among them live above forty years! 
 The Province where the River Sene has its head, is call'd Monkaran, and is under 
 the Jurifdidtion of a certain King, beginning a hunder'd leagues, or there-abouts 
 above Che-pon-Goura. The people of that Countrey find great ftore of duft-GoId 
 in the Rivers that fall into the Sene j but it is much coarfer than the other, though 
 they bring it to Chepon-Goura and Sofala. The Countrey is very healthy, and the 
 people live as long as they do in En-rope. Some years there are Cafres that come 
 from beyond the Province of Monkaran, even as far as the Cape of good Hope. 
 The Portuguez. have enquir'd after their Countrey, and the name; but they cati 
 tell no more, only that it is call'd Salvia, commanded by a King ; and that they 
 are four months generally travelling to Sofala. The Gold which they brin? is 
 very fine, and in pieces like that of Monomotopa, which they fay they find in the 
 high Mountains, digging only ten or twelve foot in the ground. They alfo bring 
 great quantities of Elephants-teeth wherewith, by their report, the Countrey 
 does fo abound, that you may fee them in herds in the fields $ and that all the 
 Palifado's of their Fortrefles, and the Pales of their Parks, are made of Eiephants- 
 teeth. Their ufual Diet is Elephants-flefh ; which four Cafres will kill with 
 their A$eagayes, or a fort of Half-pikes. The water of their Countrey is very 
 bad, which is the reafon that their thighes are fwell'd, and it is a wonder to fee 
 any one of them free. 
 
 Beyond Sofala there is a Countrey commanded by a King who is call'd the 
 King of Beroe. In fbme parts of his Countrey there grows a Root about an inch- 
 thick, and of a yellow colour. It heals all forts of Fevers, caufing the Patient 
 to vomit, But becaufe it grows very fcarce, the King ftri&ly forbids his Subjects 
 to export it. The taft of it is very bitter upon the tongue. 
 
 As for Silver-Mines, there are none in all Afia but only in fapon ; but fome 
 years fince, at Delegora, Sangora, Bordelon and Bata, have been difcover'd plenti- 
 ful Mines of Tin, to the great damage of the EngUjh, there being now enough in 
 Afta of their own befides. 
 
 CKAP. XXIV. 
 
 The Relation of a Notable pece of Treachery, whereby the Author was 
 abusd when he Embark *d at Gomrom for Surat. 
 
 IN the Month of April i66c, being ready to depart from Gomrom for Surat,irt 
 A a VefTel that belong'd to a Holland-Rvodker, commanded by a /fo//W-Captain, 
 the EngUjh Agent gave me a Packet of Letters to deliver to the Prefident at 
 Surat. . The Packet was large, containing not only the Companies-Letters, but 
 feveral private Letters to particular perfons at Surat and other parts of India. 
 This Packet I receiv'd in the prefence of one Cafembrot, a Hollander, who inform'd 
 another Dutch-man 3 whofe name was Waawuck,, of it. Thereupon they prefently 
 
 contriv'd 
 
158 Travels in India. Part. II. 
 
 contriv 1 a d ign to ieize this Packet, upon the report that ran of the rupture 
 between England and Holland. Cajembrot having (een the bignels of the Packet, 
 gives Watityr.tk. a defcription of it, and fo both together they contrive another of 
 the fame form and bignefs as neer as they could. When I came a-board, I took 
 the Engtijh Packd, and lock'd it up in my Bouccka, which is the fort of Cloak- 
 bag that is us'd in that Countrey, and laid it behind my Bolfter. There were two 
 Shallops fent a-board us, wherein there were lixty bags of Silver, containing fome 
 fifty, fome a Imnder'd Tomans a piece. Thefe bags they unladed very leifurely to 
 gain time, watching when I would be gone to bed. But when they faw that I did 
 not go to reii - , the Dutch confulted together, and agreed to let fall a bag of Tomans 
 into r ':e Sea 5 and fo came all a-board, fending away a Shallop to Gomron for a Di- 
 ver. When I found that the Veffel would not fet Sail till two or three hours after 
 day-light, i went to relt,my Bouscha lying in the fame place, half out,and half with 
 in-fide of my Bolfter : But when my Servants were gone, and I alone and a-fleep 
 in the Cabin., they cunningly ftole my Bouccha, took out the Englijb Packet, and 
 left the other which they had counterfeited, in the place 5 being only fo many 
 Letters of blank-paper. Coming to Surat the fixt of May following, I gave the 
 Packet, as I thought, which I had receiv'd from the EngUJh Agent at Gomr :: to 
 two Capuchin-Friers to deliver to the Prefident at Surat. But when the fiefi- 
 dent came to open the Packet before feveral of the Company, there was nothing 
 but white- aper made up in the form of Letters ; whic h when I heard, too much 
 to my farrow, I underftood the villanous trick that Vaa-Wacl^ had put upon me. 
 I wrote a imart Letter of complaint to the Dutch- General in Batavia, but finding 
 no redrefs, I was fore'd to undergo the hard cenfure of the Englijb, \\ ho would 
 not permit me to juftify my felf. However, as it is rare to fee treachery go un- 
 punifh'd, the Complotters all dy'd miferably. Van-WucJ^ fell into a violent Fe- 
 vor, and being charg'd with the theft j thinking to defend himfelf with an equi- 
 vocation, that if he took the Cloak-bag, he wifh'd he might dye without (peak- 
 ing a word, in three days ended his life juft in the fame manner, and at the 
 fame time that he had imprecated upon himfelf. Boz.an his Lieutenant, after a 
 grea. debauch, going to fleep upon the Terrafs of the Cabin, where he lay for 
 coolnefs., ( there r^ : ng no Balifters,,) rolling and tumbling in his fleep, fell down, and 
 the next day ^, r as found dead in the Sea. 
 
 The Captain, four or five days after his arrival at Surat, being met in the Street 
 by a Mahometan, who was jealous of his Wife, and being miftak'n by him for 
 one am~ng feveral Franks, that had parted him, and kept him from correcting 
 his Wife fome few days before, was ftabb'd by him in three or four places with a 
 Dagger,and kill'd him out-right. And this was the end of thofe treacherous people. 
 
 The End of the Second Book. 
 
 TR A- 
 
Book III Travels in India. 
 
 TRAVELS 
 
 I N D I A. 
 
 The Third Book. 
 
 CHAP. J. 
 
 Of the particular Religion of the Mahometans in the Eaft Indies. 
 
 jpp «A HE diverfity of Opinions among the Mahometans, does not confift 
 in the different Expofitions which they put upon the Alcoran j but 
 in the contrariety of Belief which they receiv'd by. Tradition from 
 „M. the firft Succeffors of Mahomet. From thence there fprung two 
 Seels, director oppofite : The one, which is call'd the Seel: of the Sounnis, fol- 
 low'd by the Turks j and the other of the Chiais, which is adher'd to by the 
 Terfians. I will not enlarge my felf upon thefe two Seels, that divide all Ma- 
 humitifm 5 it being my defign, only to tell you how the condition of that fahe 
 Religion ftands in the Empire of the Great Mogul, and in the Kingdoms of Col- 
 conda and Vifapour. 
 
 When Mahumetifm was firft brought into the Indies, there was an excefs of 
 pride, but no devotion among the Chriftians ; and the Idolaters were an effe- 
 minate people, able to make little refiftance ; fo that it was eafie for the Ma- 
 humetns to fubdue both the one and the other by force of Arms, which they 
 did fo advantageoufly, that many, as well Chriftians as Idolaters, embrae'd the 
 M<thttmetan Religion. 
 
 The Great Mogul, with all his Court, follows the Seel: of the Sounnis ; the 
 King of Golconda, that of the Chiais. In the King of P r ifapour , s Territories the 
 Sounnis and Chiais are mingPd together ; which may be laid alfo of the Court 
 of the Great Mognl 3 in regard of the great numbers of Perfians that flock thi- 
 ther to ferve in his Armies. True it is, that though they abhor the Sounnis, 
 yet they adhere to the Religion of the Prince ; holding it lawful for the pre- 
 servation of their Eftates to conceal their belief. As for what concerns the King- 
 dom of Golconda, Koutoub-Cha, the prefent King, very zealoufly maintains the 
 Law of the Chiais ; in regard the Grandees of his Court are almoft all Per- 
 sians. ' 
 
 Aureng-z^eb teftifies above all things an extraordinary devotion for the Seel; 
 of the Sounnis ; of which he is Co zealous an obferver, that he furpalles all 
 his PredecefTors in outward profeflion ; which was the Cloak under which he 
 ufurp'd the Crown. When he took pofTeffion of his Throne, he gave it out 
 that he did it only out of a defign to caufe the Law of Mahomet to be more 
 ftrictly obferv'd, which had been very much neglecled in the Reign of Sha- 
 jchan his Father, and Gehan-guir his Grandfather ■, and to (hew himfelf more 
 zealous to the Law, he turn'd Faquir or Dervich, that is, poor Volunteer; and 
 
6o 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Part II. 
 
 under that falfe pretence of Piety he cunningly made way to the Empire. And 
 indeed though he has a great many Perfans under his pay, yet he will not 
 permit them to keep holy the day confecrated to the memory of Hofen and 
 Heuftn, the two Sons Of Alt, who were put to death by the Sourmis j befides 
 that they, to pleafe him, are willing enough to conform. 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Of the FaquirS, or ]>oor Mahometan Volunteers in the Eafi Indies. 
 
 THey reckon that there are in the Indies eight hundred thoufand Faquirs, 
 and twelve hundred thoufand Idolaters ; which is a prodigious Number. 
 They are all of them Vagabonds, and lazy Drones, that dazle the eyes of 
 the people with a falfe zeal, and make them believe that whatever comes out 
 of their mouths is an Oracle. 
 
 There are feveral forts of Mahometan Faquirs. The one fort go almoft naked, 
 like the Idolatrous Faquirs, having no certain abode in the world, but giving 
 themfelves up to all manner of uncleannefs. There are others whofe Garments 
 are of fo many different pieces and colours., that a man can hardly tell of what 
 they are made. Thefe Garments reach down to the half Leg, and hide the rags 
 that are underneath. They go generally in Troops ; and have their Superiour 
 of the Gang, who is known by his Garment, which is generally poorer, and 
 confifts of more patches than the other. Befides, that he draws after him a 
 great Iron Chain, which is ty'd to his Leg, and is about two Ells long, and 
 proportionably thick. When he fays his prayers, he does it wkh a loud voice, 
 and ratling his Chain all the while, which is accompany 'd with an affeded gra- 
 vity, that draws the Veneration of the people. In the mean time the people 
 prepare Dinner for him and his company, in the place where he takes up his 
 ftand, which is ufually in fome ftreet or publick place. There he caufes his 
 Difciples to fpread certain Carpets, where he fets himfelf down to give audi- 
 ence to the people. On the other fide, the Difciples go about publifhing through 
 the Country the vertues of their Mafter, and the favours he receives from 
 God, who reveals his moft important fecrets to him, and gives him power 
 to relieve perfbns in affii&ion by his counfel. The people, who give credit to 
 him, and believe him to be a holy man, approach him with a great devotion, 
 and when they come near him, they pull off their Shoes, and proftrate them- 
 felves to kits his feet. Then the Faquir, to fhew his humility reaches out his 
 hand to kifs ; that done, he caufes them that come to confult him, to fit down 
 by him, and hears every one apart. They boaft themfelves to have a prophetick 
 Spirit ; and above all to teach barren women a way how to have Children, and 
 to be belov'd by whom they pleafe. 
 
 There are fome of thefe Faquirs who have above two hundred Difciples, or 
 more, which they affemble together by the found of a Horn, or the Beat of 
 a Drum. When they travel, they have their Standard, Lances, and other Wea- 
 pons which they pitch in the ground, near to their Mafter, when he repofes in 
 any place. 
 
 The third fort of Eaft Indian Faquir s, are thofe that being born of poor Pa- 
 rents, and defirous to underftand the Law, to the end they may become MoulUs 
 or Doctors, retire to the Mofquees, where they live upon the. Alms which is 
 given them. They employ all their time in reading the Alcoran, which they 
 get by heart j and if they can but add to that ftudy the knowledg of fome 
 natural things, and an exemplary life withall, they come to be chief of the Mcf- 
 quees, and to the dignity of MoulUhs, and Judges of the Law. Thofe Faquirs 
 have their Wives ; and fome, out of their great zeal to imitate Mahomet, have 
 three or four; thinking they do God great fcrv ice in begetting many Children, 
 £o be followers of their Laws. 
 
 CHAP 
 
Book III 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 \6\ 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Of the Religion of the Gen riles, or Idolatrous Indians. 
 He Idolaters among the Indians are fo numerous., that they are reckon'd 
 
 fuch a prodigious multitude of men mould be cow'd by a handful , and 
 bow fo ealily under the yoak of the Mahometan Princes. But that wonder well 
 may ceafe, when we confider that thofe Idolaters are not in union among 
 themfelves ; for Superftition has introduced fuch a diverfity of Opinions 
 and Cuftoms, that they can never agree one with another. An Idolater will 
 not eat Bread nor drink Water in the Houfe of any one that is not of his Cafte j 
 though it be more noble, and much more fuperior to his own. Yet they all eat 
 and drink in the Bramms Houfes, which are open to all the world. A Cafie a- 
 mong the Idolaters, is very near the lame thing which was anciently call'd a 
 Tribe among the Jews. And though it be vulgarly believ'd, that there are fe- 
 venty-two Castes, yet I have been informM by fome of their molt ingenuous 
 Priefts, that they may be all redue'd into four principal ones, from whence all 
 the reft drew their Original. 
 
 The firft Cafie is that of the Brammins, who are the SuccefTors of the an- 
 cient Brachmans, or Indian Philofophers, that ftudy'd Aftrology. You may alio 
 meet with fome of their ancient Books, in reading whereof the Brammms fpend 
 all their time; and are fb vers'd in their obfervations, that they never fail a 
 minute in the Eclipfes of the Sun and Moon. And to preferve this knowledg 
 among themfelves, they have a kind of Univerfity, in a City which is call'd 
 Benares, where they make all their Exercifes in Aftrology, and where they 
 have Doctors that expound their Law, which thev very ftriftly obferve. But in 
 regard they are fo great a number, and cannot all come to ftudy at that Uni- 
 verfity, they are all very ignorant, and confequently very fuperftitious j thofe 
 that go for the moft refin'd Wits, being the greateft Sorcerers. 
 
 The fecond Cafie is that of the Rafipoutes or Ketns, that is to fay, Warriors 
 and warlike people. Thefe are the only Idolatrous Indians that have any cou- 
 rage to fignalize themfelves in War. All the Raja's that I have 16 oft'n men- 
 tion'd, are of this Cafte. Thefe are fo many petty Kings, whom their difunion 
 has render'd Tributary to the Great Mogul. But in regard that the greateft part 
 of them are in his fervice, they are highly recompene'd by the large Salaries 
 they receive for the fmall Tribute which they pay. Thefe Raja's, and the Rafipoutes 
 their Subjects, are the chiefeft fupport of the Dominions of the Great Moguls 
 for indeed the Raja's fefieing and fefiomfieing were thofe that lifted up Aureng- 
 z,eh to the Throne. But you muft take notice., that all of this fecond Cafie 
 are not Warriors ; for they are the Rafipoutes only that go to War, and are all 
 Horfemen. But for the Ketris, they are degenerated from their Anceftors, and 
 of Soldiers are become Merchants. 
 
 The third Cafte is that of the Bannians , who are altogether addi&ed to 
 Trade ; of whom fome are Sheraffs or Bankers, others broakers, employ'd be- 
 - tween Merchant and Merchant for buying and felling. Thofe of this Cafie are 
 fo fubtil and nimble in Trade, that as I have faid before, the fews may be their 
 Prentices. They accuftom their Children betimes to fly idlenefs. And inftead of 
 furfering them to lofe the^r time in playing in the ftreets, as we generally do, they 
 teach them Arithmetick ; which they are fo perfect at, that without making 
 ufe either of Pen and Ink, or Counters, but only of their memories, they will 
 in a moment caft up the moft difficult account that can be imagin'd. They 
 always live with their Fathers, who inftruft them in Trade, and do nothing but 
 what they mew them. If any man in the heat of pafTion chafe at 'em } they 
 hear him patiently without making any reply, and parting coldly from him, 
 will not fee him again in three or four days, when they think his pafTion may 
 be over. They never eat any thing that has life • nay they would rather dye, 
 
 It feems a wonderful thing, that 
 
 * Y 
 
 than 
 
162 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Part XL 
 
 than kill the final left Animal or Vermin that crawls > being in that point above 
 all things the moft zealous Obfervers of the Law. They never fight, nor go 
 to War ; neither will they eat or drink in the Houfe of a Rafpoute, becaufe 
 they kill the Vi&uals they eat, all but Cows, which they never touch. 
 
 The fourth Cafte is that of the Charados or Soydras ; who go to War as 
 well as the Rafpoates, but with this difference, that the Rafpoutes fcrve on Horfe- 
 back, and the Charados on Foot. Both of them take it for an Honour to dye 
 in Battel; and let him be Horfe or. Foot, that Soldier is accounted infamous 
 that retreats in Fight j 'tis an eternal blot in his Family. Upon which fubjedt 
 I will tell you a ftory. A Soldier who was paflionately in love with his Wife, 
 and reciprocally belov'd by her, had fled from the fight, not fo much out of 
 any fear of death, as out of a confideration of the grief which it would oc- 
 casion to his Wife, fhoufd he leave her a Widow. When {be knew the reafon 
 of his flight, as foon as he came to the door, (he fhu.t it againft him, and or- 
 der'd him to be told, that fhe could never acknowledg that man for a Husband, 
 who had preferr'd the Love of a Woman before his Honour 5 that fhe did not 
 defire to fee him any more, as being a ftain to the Reputation of her Family ? 
 and that fhe would endeavour to teach her Children to have more courage than 
 their Father. The Wife continuing firm to her refolution, the Husband to re- 
 gain his Honour and her arTecYion, return'd to the Army, where he fo behav'd 
 himfelf, that he became famous ; and having highly made amends for his Cow- 
 ardife, the door of his Houfe was again fet open, and his Wile receiv'd him 
 with her former kindnefs. 
 
 The reft of the Natives, that are not reckon'd in the number of thefe Caftes, 
 are call'd Pauz^econr. Thefe are fuch as employ themfelves in Handicraft Trades ; 
 among which there is no other diftin&ion, but according to the Traces which 
 they follow from Father to Son. So that a Taylor cannot prefer his Son, but 
 only in his own Calling, though he be never fo rich ; nor marry either Son or 
 Daughter, but to one of his own Craft. By the fame rule, when a Taylor dies, 
 all thofe of his own Trade accompany the Corps to the place where it is burnt : 
 and the fame practife is obferv'd in all other Trades. 
 
 Among the particular Caftes, there is one that goes by the name of Alecors, 
 whofe employment is only to clean Houfes ; for which every Family pays him 
 fomething once a month, according to their proportion and quality. If a perfon 
 of quality in the Indies keeps fifty Servants, let him be Mahometan or Idola- 
 ter, there is not one of them will take a Befome in his hand to fweep the 
 Houfe ; for he would think himfelf affronted, it being one of the greateft fcorns 
 you can put upon an Indian, to call him Alacor. Befides, every one of thofe 
 Servants knows his bufinefs ; whether it be to carry the pot of Water to 
 drink by the way, or to give his Mafter his Pipe of Tobacco when he calls 
 for it $ fo that if the Mafter fhould bid one to do that which the other was ap- 
 pointed to do, that Servant would itand like a Statue, and never make him 
 any anivver. But for the Slaves, they are oblig'4 to do what ever the Mafter 
 commands them. Thefe Alacor s having no other bufinefs but only to make 
 clean the Houfes, eat the fcraps of all the other Cafte s ; and fo without fcrupfe 
 feed upon any thing. There are none but thofe of this Tribe make ufe of Afles, 
 to carry away the filth of the Houfes into the Feilds; for which reafon none of 
 die reft of the Indians will fo much as touch that Animal ; which is quite o- 
 therwife in Perjia, as well for carriage, as to ride upon. Moreover, there are 
 none of the other Indians, except the Alacors that will eat Pig, 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Book III. Travels 171 India. 
 
 CHAP. IV. 
 
 Of the Kings and Idolatrous Trinces of Afia. 
 
 THE chiefeft of the Idolatrous Kings of Afia,zvt the King of Aracan,thb King 
 of Pegu, the King of Siam, the King of Cochinchina, and the King of Tun- 
 quw. As for the King of China, we know that he was an Idolater before the 
 Tartars invaded his Dominions. But fince that, we know not what to report 
 of certainty, in regard that the Tartars who are now Mafters of the Countryj 
 are neither Idolaters nor Mahometans, but rather both together. In the Iflands 
 the King of fapon, the King of Cejlan, and fome petty Kings of the Molucca 
 Iflands are Idolaters ; as are all the Raja's as well in the Empire of the Great 
 Mogul, as in the neighbouring Kingdoms of Vifipour and Gokonda. In a word, 
 all the meaner fort of people, as well in the Territories of the Great Mogul 3 
 Kings of Gokonda and Fifapour, as in the Ifles of Achan, Java, and Macajfar s 
 though their Kings are Mahumetans, are all themfelves Idolaters. 
 
 Some fifty years ago, one of the Kings of Cejlan became a Chriftian, and 
 was baptiz'd by the name of fohn, being call'd before the Emperor Pnapen- 
 der. But as fbon as he had embrac'd the Chriftian Faith, the Princes and Priefts 
 of the Country fet up another King in his room. He endeavoured all he could 
 to bring his people to follow his example ; to which purpofe he aflign'd to 
 the Father fefuits, twelve large Villages about Colombo, for the bringing up 
 the youth of the Country in their Colledges j to the end that they being well 
 inftru&ed, might inftrucl: others. For the King made it plain to the fefuits, that it 
 was impoffible for them fo well to underftand the Language of the Country, as 
 to be able to preach to the Natives. Befides, that they found the ingenuities 
 of the Youth of Cejlan fo quick and apprehenfive, that they learnt more La- 
 tin, Philofophy, and other Sciences infix months, than the Europeans learnt in 
 a year ; and that they put fuch fubtle Queftions to their Mafters, as were be- 
 yond imagination. 
 
 Some years after the King had pfofefs'd Chriftianity, a witty man of the 
 Ifland of Ceylan, and a good natural Philofopher, whole name was Alegamma 
 Motiar, or the Mafter of the Philofophers , after he had convers'd with the 
 fefuits and other Religious perfons, was infpir'd to turn Chriftian. Thereupon 
 he went to the fefuits, and told them, that he defir'd to be a Chriftian j but 
 withall he was very earneft to know what Jefus Chrift had done, and left in 
 writing. They gave him the New Teftament, which he fet himfelf to read with 
 that heed and ftudy, that in left than fix months there Was hardly a pafiage 
 which he could not repeat. After that he again teftifi'd to the fefuits and o- 
 ther Religious perfons, that he had a great defire to turn Chriftian, in regard 
 he found their Religion to be fuch as Jefus Chrift had taught ; but only he won- 
 der'd that they themfelves did not follow his example. For that he could ne- 
 ver find by his reading, that Jefus Chrift ever took any money of any body ; 
 but that they took all they could get, and never baptiz'd nor buri'd unlefs 
 they were well paid. But though he ftarted the Queftion, he was baptiz'dj and 
 afterwards became a fedulous converter of others, 
 
 CHA P, 
 
Travels in India. 
 
 Part. II. 
 
 CHAP. V. 
 
 What the Idolaters believe teaching a Divinity. 
 
 T Hough the Idolatrous Indians attribute to the Creature, as to Cows, Apes, 
 andfeveral Monfters, thofe Divine Honours which are only due to the 
 true Deity 5 yet they acknowledg one only Infinite God, Almighty, and only 
 Wife, the Creator of Heaven and Earth, who fills all places with his prefence. 
 They call him in fome places Permejfer, in others Veremael, and Wefinon among the 
 Jiramins that inhabit the Coaft of Cormandel. It may be, becaufe they have 
 heard that the Circle is the moft perfect of all Figures, therefore- it is that 
 they fay God is of an Oval Figure 5 for they have in all their Pagfods an Oval 
 Flintftone, which they fetch from Ganges, and worfhip as a God. They are fa 
 obftinately wedded to this foolifh imagination,, that the wifeft among the Era- 
 mins will not fo much as hear any argument to the contrary. So that it is no 
 wonder that a people led by fuch blind Guides, fbould fall into fuch Abyffes 
 of Idolatry. There is one Tribe fo fuperftitious, in reference to that Article, that 
 they carry thole Oval Flints about their Necks, and beat them againft their 
 Breafts, when they are at their devotions. In this dark and lamentable mift of 
 ignorance, thefe Idolaters make their Gods to be born like men, and aflign 
 them Wives, imagining that theirs are the pleafures of men. Thus they take 
 their Ram for a great Deity, in regard of the Miracles which they believe he 
 wrought while he liv'd upon Earth. Ram was the Son of a potent Raja, who 
 was call'd by the name of Deferet, and the moft vertuous of all his Children, 
 which he had by two lawful Wives. He* was particular belov'd by his Father, 
 who defign'd him to be his Succeffor. But the Mother of Ram being dead, 
 the Rajahs other Wife, who had her Husband entirely at her beck, prevaiPd 
 with him to exterminate Ram usA M\s Brother Lokeman from his Houfe, and 
 all his Territories , upon whofe excjufion the Son of that Wife was declar'd the 
 Raja's Succelfor. As the two Brothers were about to be gone, Ram's Wife 
 Sita, of whom he went to take his leave, and whom the Idolaters worfhip 
 as a Goddefs, beg'd of him that fhe might not leave him, having made a refb- 
 lution never to forfake him ; whereupon they all three went together to feek: 
 their fortunes. They were not very fuccefsful at firft ; for as they pafs'd through 
 a Wood, Ram being in purfuit of a Bird, ftray'd from the Company, and was 
 miffing a long time 5 infomuch that Sit a fearing that fome difafter was befall'n 
 him, befought Lokeman to look after him. He excus'd himfelf at firft, by rea- 
 fon that Ram had oblig'd him never to leave Sita alone, forefeeing by a Pro- 
 phetick Spirit what would befall her, fhould fhe be left to her felf. Never- 
 thelefs Lokeman being over perfwaded by the prayers of his fair Sifter, went 
 to feek for Ram his Brother ; but in the mean time Rhevan another of the I- 
 dolaters Gods, appear'd to Sita in the fhape of a Faquir , and beg'd an Alms 
 of her. Now Ram had order'd Sita, that fhe fhould not ftir out of the place 
 where he left her 5 which Rhevan well knowing, would not receive the Alms 
 which Sita prefented him, unlefs fhe would remove to another place ; which 
 when Sita had done, either out of negligence or forgetfulnefs, Rhevan feiz'd 
 upon her, and carry'd her into the thick of the Wood, where his Train ftay'd 
 for him. Ram at his return miffing Sita, fell into a fwoon for greif, but be- 
 ing brought again to himfelf by his Brother Lokeman, they two immediately 
 went together in fearch of Sita, who was fb dearly belov'd by her Husband. 
 
 When the Bramins repeat this Rape of their Goddefs, they do it with tears 
 in their eyes, and great demonftrations of forrow ; adding upon this fubjed, 
 an infinite company of Fables more ridiculous, to fnew the great courage of 
 Ram in purfuit of the Ravifher. They employ'd all Creatures living upon the 
 difcovery ; but none of them had the luck to fucceed, only the Monkey call'd 
 Harman. He crofs'd over the Sea at one Leap, and coming into Rhevans Gar- 
 dens, found Sita in the extremity of affliction ; and very much furpriz'd to hear 
 
 an 
 
Book II. Travels in India. %6k 
 
 an Ape fpeak to her in her Husbands behalf. At firft fhe would not give any 
 credit to fuch an Embaflador ; but the Ape, to (hew that his Commiffion was 
 authentick, prefents her with a Ring which her Husband had giv'n her, and 
 that fhe had left behind her among her Furniture. She could hardly however 
 believe fo great a Miracle, as that Ram her Husband mould make a Beaft fpeak, 
 to bring her the news of his health, and to teftifie as he did the marks of his 
 affection. But the Ape Harman wrought Miracles himfelf, for being taken for 
 a Spy by fome of Rhevans Servants, who therefore would have burnt him, he 
 made ufe of the fire which they had prepar'd to burn him, to fet Rhevans Pa- 
 lace on fire, which he almoft confum'd to the ground, with all the tatters and 
 rags which were ty'd to his tail and his body. When the Ape had thus done, 
 the better to efcape out of Rhevans hands, he took the fame way he came, 
 and repaffing the Sea again at one jump , he came and gave Ram an account 
 of his adventures ; and told him in what a forrowful condition he had found 
 Sita, who did nothing but mourn by reafon of her abfence from her Husband. 
 Ham touch'd with his Wives affection, refolv'd to deliver her out of Rhevans 
 hands, whatever it coft him j whereupon he rais'd Forces , and being guided 
 by the Ape, at length he came to Rhevans Palace, that ftill fmoakU, the fire 
 had been fo great ; and by reafon that Rhevans Servants were difpers'd, Ram 
 had an eafie opportunity to fee his belov'd Sita again , whom Rhevan aban- 
 don'd wholly to him, flying for fear to the Mountains. Ram and Sita were 
 infinitely overjoy'd at their coming together again, and return'd very great 
 Honours to Harman, who had done him fo great fervice. 
 
 As for Rhevan, he fpent all the reft of his days like a poor Faquir, feeing 
 his Country ruin'd by Ram's Troops, who was refolv'd to be reveng'd for the 
 injury which he had receiv'd ; and from this Rhevan it was, from whence that 
 infinite multitude of Faquirs, that fwarm all over India, firft took their Ori- 
 ginal. 
 
 CHAP. VI. 
 
 Of the Faquirs, or poor Volunteers among the Indians, and of 
 
 their Refinances. 
 
 THE Original of the Faquirs; as I faid before, came from that Rhevan* 
 whom Ram difpoil'd of his Kingdom j at which he conceiv'd fuch an un- 
 (peakable forrow, that he refolv'd to lead a Vagabond life, and to wander about 
 the world, poor, ftript of all, and in a manner quite naked. He found enough 
 to follow him in a courfe of life that gives them fo much liberty. For being 
 worfhip'd as Saints, they have in their hands all opportunities of doing evil. 
 
 Thefe Faquirs wander generally in Troops, every one of which kas a Supe- 
 rior. And in regard they are quite naked, Winter and Summer lying upon the 
 hard ground, when it is cold, the young Faquirs, and others that are moft de- 
 vout, go in the afternoon to feek for the dung of Cows and other Creatures, 
 of which they make their fires. They rarely burn Wood, for fear of killing 
 any living Animal which is wont to breed in it ; and therefore the Wood where- 
 with they burn their dead, is only fuch as has floated long in the Water, which 
 never breeds any fort of living Creature. The young Faquirs having got toge- 
 ther a good quantity of dung, mix'd with dry turf, make feveral fires, accor- 
 ding to the bignefs of the Company j round about every one of which the Fa- 
 quirs feat themfelves. When they grow fleepy, they lay themfelves upon the 
 ground, fpreading the Afhes abroad, which ferve them for a Mattrefs ; without 
 any other Canopy than that of Heaven. 
 
 As for the Faquirs that do Pennance, when they are laid down in the fame 
 pofture as you fee them in the day time, they kindle a good fire on each fide 
 of them, for otherwife they would not be able to endure the cold. The rich 
 
 Idbla- 
 
i66 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Part. II. 
 
 Idolaters account themfelves happy, and their Houfes to be fill'd with the 
 benedictions of Heaven, when they have any of thefe Faquirs for their Guefts, 
 which the more auftere they are, the more they honour : and it \i the glory of 
 the Troop to have one among them that does fome confiderable aft of Pe- 
 nance. 
 
 Thefe Crews of Faquirs many time joyn together to go in Pilgrimage to the 
 Principal Pagods, and publick Warnings, which they ufe upon certain days in the 
 year in the River Ganges, whereof they make the chiefeft account ; as alio in 
 that which feparates the Territories of the Fortugals of Goa from the Dominions 
 Of the King of Vifapour. Some of the molt aultere Faquirs live in little pitti- 
 ful Huts neer their Pagods, where they have once in four and twenty hours fome- 
 thing to eat beftow'd upon them for God's fake. The Tree whereof I have giv'n 
 the defcription, is of the fame fort as that which grows neer Gomron, which 1 have 
 defcrib'd in my Pcr/ian Relations. The Franks call it the Bamians-Tree becaufe 
 in thofe places where thofe Trees grow, the Idolaters always take up their quar- 
 ters, and drefs their victuals under them. They have thofe Trees in great re- 
 verence, and oft-times build their Pagods either under or very neer them. That 
 which the Reader fees here defcrib'd, grows at Surat ; in the trunk whereof, 
 which is hollow, is the figure of a Monfter, reprefenting the face of a defornr d 
 Woman, which they fay was the firft Woman, whofe name was Mamaniva ; thi- 
 ther great numbers of Idolaters every day refort : neer to which there is fome 
 Bramin or other always appointed to be ready to fay Prayers, and receive the 
 Alms of Rice, Millet, and other Grains which the charitable beftow upon them. 
 The Bramin marks the forhead of all, both Men and Women, that come 'to pray 
 in thePagod, with a kind of Vermillion, wherewith he alfo befmears the Idol j 
 for being thus mark'd, they believe the evil Spirit cannot hurt them, as being then 
 under the protection of their God. 
 
 Number i, is that part where the Bramins paint their Idols ; fuch as Mama- 
 niva, Sit a, Madedina, and others ; whereof they have a great number. 
 
 Numb. 2, is the figure of Mamaniva, which is in the Pagod. 
 
 Numb. 3, is another Pagod neer the former. There ftands a Cow at the door, 
 and within ftands the figure of their God Ram. 
 
 Numb. 4, is another Pagod, into which the Faquirs, that do Penance, often re- 
 tire. 
 
 Numb, is another Pagod dedicated to Ram. 
 
 Numb. 6, is a Hut into which a Faquir makes his retirement feveral timers a 
 year, there being but one hole to let in the light, He flays there according to the 
 height of his devotion, fometimes nine or ten days together, without either eat- 
 ing or drinking j a thing which I could not have believ'd, had I not feen it. My 
 curiofity carri'd me to fee one of thofe Penitents, with the Prefident of the Dutch- 
 Company, who fet a Spy to watch night and day whether any body brought him 
 any victuals. But he could not difcover any relief the Faquir had, all the while 
 fitting upon his Bum like our Taylors, never changing his pofture above feven days 
 together, not being able to hold out any longer, by reafon that the heat and flench 
 of the Lamp was ready to ftifle him. Their other forts of Penance out-doing 
 this, might be thought incredible, were there not fo many thoufand witneffes 
 thereof. 
 
 Numb, -j, is the figure of another Penitentiary, over whofe head feveral years 
 have paft ; and yet he never flept day nor night. When he finds himfelf fleepy, 
 he hangs the weight of the upper part of his body upon a double-rope that is 
 faften'd to one of the boughs of the Tree ; and by the continuance of this pofture, 
 which is very ftrange and painful, there falls a humour into their legs that fwells 
 them very much. 
 
 Numb. 8, is the figure of two poftures of two doing Penance j who, as 
 long as they live, carry their arms above their heads in that manner j which cau- 
 fes certain Carnofities to breed in the joynts, that they can never bring them down 
 again. Their hair grows down to their wafts, and their nails are as long as their 
 fingers. Night and Day, Winter and Summer they go always ftark naked in the 
 fame pofture, expos'd to the heat and rain, and the ftinging of the Flies j from 
 which they have not the ufe of their hands to rid themfelves. In other 
 
 necef- 
 
*5gges. 
 
 •V;. 
 
I 
 
Book III. Travels in India. 
 
 neceffities they have other Faquirs in their company always ready to affift 
 them. 
 
 Numb. % is the pofture of another Penitent, who every day for feveral hours 
 ftands ujfon one foot, holding a Chafing-difh in his hand, into which he pours In- 
 cenfe, as an Offering to his God, fixing his eyes all the while upon the Sun. 
 
 Numb, ioand n, are the figures of two other Penitents fitting with their 
 hands rais'd above their heads in the air. 
 
 Numb. 12, is the pofture wherein the Penitents fleep, without ever refting 
 their arms j which is certainly one of the greateft torments the body of man can 
 fuffer. 
 
 Numb. 13, is the pofture of a Penitent, whofe arms, through weaknefs, 
 hang flagging down upon his moulders, being dry'd up for want of nourifh- 
 ment. 
 
 There are an infinite number of other Penitents ; fome who in a pofture quite 
 contrary to the motion and frame of nature, keep their eys alwavs turn'd toward 
 the Sun. Others who fix their eyes perpetually upon the ground, never fo much 
 as fpeaking one word, or looking any perfon in the face. And indeed there is fuch 
 an infinite variety of them, that would render the farther difcourfe of them more 
 then tedious. 
 
 True it is, that I have hid thofe parts which modefty will not fuffer to be ex- 
 pos'd to view. But they both in City and Countrey go all as naked as they came 
 out of their Mothers wombs 5 and though the Women approach them to take 
 them by the fingers-ends, and to kifs thofe parts which modefty forbids to name,; 
 j'et fhall you not obferve in them any motion of fenfuality; rather quite contrary, 
 feeing them never to look upon any perfon, but rowling their eyes in a 1110ft fright- 
 ful manner, you would believe them in an extafie. 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Of the Idolaters belief touching the eftate of the Soul after death. 
 
 » 
 
 '^T^I S an Article of the Idolaters Faith, that the Souls of Men departing out of 
 X the body, are prefented to God ; who according to the lives which they 
 lead, orders them another body to inhabit. So that one and the fame perfon is 
 born feveral times into the World. And that as for the Souls of wicked and vi- 
 cious perfons, God difpofes them into the bodies of contempt'ble Beafts, fuch as 
 AfTes,Dogs, Cats, and the like ; to do Penance for their crimes in thofe infamous 
 Prifons. But they believe that thofe Souls that enter into Cows are happy ; pre- 
 fuming that there is a kind of divinity in thofe creatures. For if a man dye with a 
 Cows- tail in his hand, they fay it is enough to render him happy in the other 
 World. 
 
 The Idolaters believing thus the tranfmigration of the Souls of men into the 
 bodies of other creatures, they abhor to kill any creature whatever, for fear they 
 fliould be guilty of the death of fome of their kindred or friends doing Penance 
 in thofe bodies. 
 
 If the Men in their life-time are famous for their vertaous deeds, they hold 
 that their Souls pafs into the bodies of fome Potent Raja's : where they enjoy 
 the pleafures of this life in thofe bodies, as the reward of thofe good works which 
 they did. 
 
 This is the reafon why the Faquirs put themfelves to fuch horrible Penances. 
 But be«aufe that all are not able to endure fo much torment in this World, they 
 labour to fupply the defect of that cruel Penance by good works. And befides, 
 they charge their Heirs in their Wills to give Alms to the Bramins, to the end that 
 by the powerful effect of their Prayers, their God may afligo them the body of 
 fome Noble Perfonage, 
 
 - • Xh 
 
8 Travels in India. Part II. 
 
 In January i66t, the Breaker belonging to the //l»//W-Company, whofc name 
 was Moadas-Parek^, dy'd at Surat. He was a rich Man, and very charitable, giving 
 his Alms very liberally as well to the Chriftians as to the Idolaters } the Capu- 
 chins at Shy at living one part of the year upon the Rice, Butter and Pulfe which 
 he lent them. This Banian was not nek above four or five days ; during all 
 which time, and for eight days more after he was dead, his Brothers diftributed 
 nine or ten-thoufand Roupies ; and in the burning of his body they mix'd Sandal- 
 wood, and L gum- Aloes, with the ordinary wood, believing that by that means 
 the Soul of their Brother tranfmigrating into another body, he would come to 
 be ijme great Lord in another Gountrey. There are fome that are fuch fools 
 that they" bury their treafure in their life-time, as it is the ufual cuftom of all the 
 rich Men in the Kingdom of Afen i to the end that if they mould be condemn'd 
 to the body of fome poor miferable perfon, they might have wherewithal to fup- 
 ply their neceflities. I remember one day that I bought in India an Agate-Cup 
 half a foot high } he that fold it me, afTur'd me that it had been buried under 
 ground above 40 years, and that he kept it to ferve his occafions after death j 
 but that it was to him a thing indifferent whether he buried his Cup or h s Mo- 
 ney. In my laft Voyage I bought of one of thefe Idolaters fixty-two Diu nonds, 
 of about fix grains a-piece ; and while I was wondring to fee fo fair a par cel, he 
 told me I needed not to wonder ; for he had been fifty years getting them to- 
 gether, to ferve him after his death, but that having occafion for Money, he was 
 forcM to part with them. This buried treafure ftood the Raja Seva-Gi. in great 
 ftead, when he took Arms againft the Great Mogul, and the King of PtfajpaMi 
 For that Raja having taken Callian Biondi, a fmall City in the Kingdom of Vif& 
 your, by the advice of the Bramins, who affur'd him he mould find great ftore of 
 treafure buri'd, caus'd the greateft part thereof to be demoliuVdj and found fo 
 much wealth, as to maintain his Army, which was above thirty-thoufand Men. It 
 is impoffible to convince thefe poor Idolaters of their errors ; in regard they will 
 hear no reafon, but fubmit rhemfelves altogether to their old forms and cu- 
 ftoms. 
 
 CHAP. VIIL 
 
 Of the Cuftom among the Idolaters to burn the Bodies of their 'Dead. 
 
 THE cuftom of burning the Bodies of the dead is very ancient among the 
 Gentiles j which Ceremony they moft commonfy perform by the banks of 
 Rivers, where they wafh the dead ; which is the laft purgation of them from, 
 their fins. Nay, their fuperftition is fo great fometimes, that they will carry the 
 lick perfon, death approaching, to the bank of fome River or Pond^ and put his 
 feet in the water. As nature fails,they dip him deeper and deeper,till at length they 
 hold him expiring up to the chin in the River : to the end that at the fame time 
 that the Soul departs out of the Body, both Body and Soul may be cleans'd from 
 all defilement j and then plunging the newly dead Body over head and ears, they 
 bring it out, and burn it in the place appointed ; which is generally neer fome Pa- 
 god. There are fome perfons that make it their bufinefs to fetch Wood, and agree 
 what they fhall have for their pains. An Idolater being dead, all thofe of his 
 C. fic or Tribe affemble together at the Houfe of the deceased, and laying the 
 Body upon a Beer cover'd with clean fine Linnen according to his Quality and 
 EfVate, they follow the Beer, which is carri'd by fuch as are appointed for that 
 purpdfe to the place where the Body is to be burn'd. As they go along they ling 
 certain Prayers to their God, pronouncing feveral times the words Ram, Ram, 
 while another going before the Beer , founds a little Bell, to advertize the living to 
 prav for the dead. The Body being fet down by the bank of the River or Pond 3 
 they hrft plunge it into the water, and then they burn it. According to the qua- 
 lity of the deccas'd they alfo mingle with the ordinary wood Sandal-wood, and 
 
 other 
 
Book II 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 169 
 
 other Sweet-woods. But the Idolaters do not only burn the Bodies of the dead, 
 but the Bodies of the living. They fcruple to kill a ferpent, or a loufe. but ac- 
 count it a meritorious thing to burn a living Wife with the Body of the deceas'd 
 Husband. 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 How the Wives are burnt in India with the Bodies of their 
 
 deceased Husbands. 
 
 IT is alfb an ancient cuftom among the Indians 3 t\nz the Husband happening to dye, 
 the Wife can never marry again. So that as foon as the Man is dead, the Wife 
 retires to bewail her Husband j fome days after that, they (have ofF her hair; 
 Ihe lays afide all the ornaments of her apparel 5 me takes off from her arms and 
 legs the Bracelets which her Husband put on when he efpous'd her_, in token of her 
 fubmiffion, and her being chain'd to him : and all the reft of her life fhe lives 
 flighted and defpis'd, and in a worfe condition than a Slave in the very Houfe 
 where fhe was Miftrefs before. This unfortunate condition caufes them to hate 
 Jife, fo that they rather choofe to be buri'd alive with the body of their deceas'd 
 Husbands, then to live the fcorn and Contempt of all the World. Befides that, 
 the Bramins make them believe, that in dying after that manner, they mall re- 
 vive again with him in another World, with more honour and more advantages 
 than they enjoy'd before. Thefe are the motives that perfwade the Women to 
 burn with their Husbands ; befides that, the Priefts flatter them with a hope, 
 that while they are in the midft of the flames, before they expire, Ram will 
 appear, and reveal wonderful vifions to them ; and that after their Souls 
 have tranfmigrated into various Bodies, they {hall at length obtain a high degree 
 of Honour to eternity. 
 
 However, there Is no Woman that can burn with her Husband's hody, till fhe 
 has the leave of the Governor of the place where fhe inhabits, who being a Ma- 
 bumetan, and abhorring that execrable cuftom of Self-murder, is very fhy to per- 
 mit them. Befides, there are none but Widows that have no children, that lye 
 under the reproach that forces them to violent death. For as for the Widows 
 that have children, they are by no means permitted to burn themfelves 3 but 
 quite the contrary, they are commanded to live for the education of the chil- 
 dren. Thofe Women whom the Governour will not permit to burn themfelves, 
 (pend the reft of their lives in doing Penance, and performing works of Charity. 
 Some make it their bufinefs to fit upon the Road to boyl certain Pulfe in water, 
 and to give the liquor to Travellers to drink. Others fit with fire always ready 
 for them to light their Tobacco. Others make vows to eat nothing but the un- 
 digefted grains which they find in Cow-dung. 
 
 The Governour finding no perfwafions will alter the Woman's refolution, but 
 more efpecially perceiving by the fign which his Secretary makes him, that he has 
 receiv'd the Coin, in a furly manner gives the Woman leave, bidding the Devil 
 take her and all her kindred. 
 
 When they have got this leave, their Mufiek begins to ftrike up 3 and away they 
 ding to the Houfe of the deceas'd, with Drums beating, and Flutes playing before 
 them ; and in that manner they accompany the perfon that is to be burnt, to the 
 place-appointed. All the kindred and friends of the Widow that is to dye, come 
 to her, and congratulate her for the happinefs fhe is to enjoy in the other World : 
 $nd for the honour which the Cafie fhe is of receives by her generous refolution a 
 {he dreftes her felf as fhe were going to be marri'd, and fhe is conduced in tri- 
 umph to the place of execution. For the noife is loud of Mufical Inftruments, 
 and Womens Voices, that follow her finging Songs in honour of the miferable 
 creature that is going to dye. The Bramins that accompany her, exhort her to 
 give publick teftimonies of her conftancy and courage : and many of our Europeans 
 
 * Z are 
 
Travels in India. Part. H 
 
 are of opinion that to take away the fears of death, which naturally terrifies hu- 
 manity, the Prieits do give her a certain Beverage to ftupify and difbrder the 
 fenfes, which takes from her all apprehenfion of her preparations for death. 'Tis 
 for the Bramins intereft that the poor miferable creatures mould continue in their 
 refolutions ; for all their Bracelets as well about their legs as their arms, the Pen- 
 dents in their ears ; their Rings fometimes of Gold, fometimes of Silver ; (for 
 the poor wear only Copper and Tin,) all thefe belong to the Bramins, who rake 
 for them among the afhes when the party is burn'd. 
 
 I have feen Women burnt after three feveral manners, according to the differ- 
 ence of theCountrey. In the Kingdom of Guz.erat, as far as Agra and Dehli > 
 they fet up a little Hut about twelve foot fquare upon the bank of a Pond or 
 River. 'Tis made of Reeds, and all forts of fmall Wood, with which they min- 
 gle certain pots of Oil and other Drugs to make it burn more vehemently. The 
 Woman is plac'd in the middle of the Hut, in a half-lying-down pofture, leaning 
 her head upon a kind of a wooden Bolfter, and refting her back againft a Pillar, 
 to which the Bramin tycs her about the middle, for fear fhe mould run away 
 when me feels the fire. In this pofture fhe holds the body of her deceas'd Huf- 
 band upon her knees, chewing Betle z\\ the while : and when fhe has continu'd in 
 this pofture about half an hour, the Bramm goes out, and the Woman bids them 
 let fire to the Hut j which is immediately done by the Bramins^ and the kindred 
 and friends of the Woman; whoalfocaft feveral pots of Oil into the fire, to put 
 the Woman the fboner out of her pain. After the Woman is burnt, the Bramins 
 fearch the afhes for all her Bracelets, Pendants and Rings, whether Gold, Silver, 
 Copper or Tin , which is all free booty to themfelves. 
 
 In Bengala they burn the Women after another fafhion. In that Countrey a 
 Woman rnuft be very poor that dors not accompany the Body of her deceas'd 
 Husband to the Ganges to wafh his Body, and to be Avafb'd her felf before (he is 
 burnt. I have feen dend Carkaflir brought to the Ganges above twenty days 
 journey off from the place, and fmelt 'em to boot 5 for the fcent of them has 
 been intollerably novfom. There was one that came from the Northern Moun- 
 tains neer the Frontiers of the Kingdom of Bo w an f with the body of her Hufc 
 band carri'd in a Waggon ; me traveled twenty days a-foot., and neither eat nor 
 drank for 1 j or 16 days together till fhe came to the Ganges, where after fhe had 
 wafh'd the body that ltank abominably, and had afterwards wafh'd her felf, fhe 
 was burnt with him with an admirable conftancv. Before the Woman that is to 
 be burnt, goes the Mufick, confifting of Drum c , Flutes and Hautbovs, whom the 
 Woman in her beft Accoutrements follows, dancine up to the very Funeral-pile, 
 upon which fhe gets up, and places her felf as if fhe were fitting up in her Bed j 
 and then they lay a-crofs her the body of her Husband. When that is done, her 
 kindred and friends, fome bring her a Letter, fome a piece of Calicut, another 
 pieces of Silver or Copper, and defire her to deliver them to their Mother, or 
 Brother, or fome other Kinfman or Friend. When the Woman fees they have all 
 d6ne, fhe asks the .Standers-by three times, if they have nothing more of fer- 
 vice to command her ; if they make no anfwer, fhe ties up all fhe has got in a 
 piece of Taffata, which fhe puts between her own belly, and the body of her 
 Husband, bidding them to fet fire to the Pile ; which is prefently done by the 
 Bramins and her Kindred. I have obferv'd, becaufe there is fcarcity of Wood 
 in BengaU, that when thefe poor Creatures are half griddl'd, they caft their 
 bodies into the Ganges, where the remains are devour'd by the Crocodiles. 
 
 I muft not forget a wicked cuftom practis'd by the Idolaters of Bengala. 
 When a Woman is brought to bed, and the Child will not take to the Teat, 
 they carry it out of the Village, and- putting it into a Linnen Cloth, which they 
 faft'n by the four Corners to the Boughs of a Tree, they there leave it from 
 morning till evening. By this means the poor Infant is expos'd to be tormented 
 by the Crows, infomuch that there are fome who have their eyes pickt out of 
 their heads : which is the reafon that in Bengda you fhall fee many of thefe Ido- 
 laters that have but one eye, and fome that have loft both. In the evening they 
 fetch the child away, to try whether he will fuck the next night j and if he ftill 
 refufe the teat, they carry him again to the fame place next morning j which they 
 do for three days together 5 after which,if the Infant after that refutes to fuck, they 
 
 believe 
 
Book III. Travels in India. 
 
 believe him to be a Devil, and throw him into Ganges, or any the next Pond 
 or River. In the places where the Apes breed, thele poor Infants are not lb 
 expos'd to the Crows ; for where the Ape difcovers a Neft of thole -Birds, he 
 climbs the Tree, and throws the Neft one way, and the Eggs another. Some- 
 times fome charitable people among the Englijh, Hollanders, and Portugals, com- 
 paffionating the misfortune of thole Children, will take them away from the 
 Tree, and give them good education. 
 
 All along the Coaft of Coromandel, when the Women are to be burnt with 
 their Husbands., they make a great hole in the ground nine or ten foot deep, 
 and twenty-five or thirty foot Iquare, into which they throw a great quantity 
 of Wood and Drugs to make the fire burn more fiercely. When the fire is 
 kindled, they fet the body of the man upon the brink ; and then prefently up 
 comes the Woman dancing and chewing Betle ; accompany'd by her Friends and 
 Kindred, with Drums beating, and Flutes founding. Then the Woman takes 
 three turns round the hole, and every time Ihe has gone the round, Ihe kilFes 
 her Friends and Kindred. After the third time the Bramins caft the Carcals 
 of her Husband into the flame; and the Woman ftanding with her back to 
 the fire, is pulht in by the Bramins alfo, and tumbles backward. Then her 
 Kindred and Friends caft Oil and other combuftible Drugs upon the fire, to 
 make it burn more vehemently, that the Bodies may be the fooner con- 
 fum'd. 
 
 In moft places upon the Coaft of Coromandd , the Women are not burnt 
 with their deceas'd Husbands, but they are buried alive with them in holes 
 which the Bramins make a foot deeper than the tallnels of the man and wo- 
 man. Ufually they chufe a Sandy place 5 fo that when the man and woman are 
 both let down together, all the Company with Baskets of Sand fill up the hole 
 above half a foot higher than the furface of the ground, after which they 
 jump and dance upon it, till they believe the woman to be ftifl'd. 
 
 When fome of the Idolaters upon the Coaft of Coromandel are upon the point 
 of death, their Friends do not carry them to the fide of a River or Lake to' 
 cleanfe their Souls, but they carry them to the fatteft Cow they can find j 
 and laying the fick party juft behind the Cow, they lift up her Tail, and pro- 
 voke her to pifs. If Ihe pifs, fo that it falls upon the face of the fick party, all 
 the Company are overjoy 'd, laying, that his Soul is happy. But if the Cow 
 do not pifs, to walh the fick parties face, they burn him with a great deal of 
 fadnefs. If a Cow be fick, the owner muft be careful to lead her to a Pond 
 or River j for Ihould Ihe dye at his Houfe, the Bramins would fine him. 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 Remarkable Stories of Women that have been burnt after their 
 
 Husbands deceafe. 
 
 THE Raja of Velau having loft his City and his life, through the lofs 
 of a Battel gain'd againft him by the King of Vifapour's General, he 
 was extreamly lamented at Court. Eleven of his Wives alfo were no left 
 concern'd for his death, and refolv'd to be burnt when his Body was 
 burn'd, The General of Vifapour's Army underftanding their refolution, thought 
 at firft to divert them, by promifing them all kind ulage. But finding perfwa- 
 fions would not prevail, he order'd them to be Ihut up in a Room. He who 
 had the order, going to put it in execution, the Women in a rage told him, 
 that 'twas to no purpofe to keep them Prisoners, for if they might not have 
 leave to do what they had refolv'd, in three hours there would not one of 
 them be alive. The perfon entrufted, laugh'd at their threats ; but the Keeper 
 of thbfe women opening the door at the end of the three hours, found them 
 
 * Z 2 
 
172 
 
 all ftretch'd out dead upon the place, without any mark in the world to be 
 feen that they had any way haften'd their own deaths. 
 
 Two of the moft potent Raja's of India came to Aora in the year 1642, 
 to do homage to Sha-jehan, who then reign'd ; who not having acquitted them- 
 lelves as they ought to have done,in the judgment of the Grand Mafter of the Kings 
 Houfhold, he told one of the Raja's one day, in the prefence of the King, 
 that they had not done well, to behave themfelves in that manner toward fo 
 great a Monarch, as was the King his Mafter. The Raja looking upon himfelf 
 to be a great King, and a great Prince, he and his Brother having brought along 
 with them a Train of iy or 16000 thoufand Horfe, was netl'd at the bold 
 reproof which the Grand Mafter gave him, and drawing out his Dagger, flew* 
 him. upon the place, in the prefence of the King. The Grand Mafter falling at the 
 feet of his own Brother, who ftood clofe by him, he was going about to re- 
 venge his death, but was prevented by the Raja's Brother, who ftab'd him, 
 and laid him athwart his Brothers Body. The King, who beheld thefe two 
 murthers one upon the neck of the other, retir'd into his Haram for fear. But 
 prefently the Omrahs and other people fell upon the Raja's, and cut 'em to 
 pieces. The King incens'd at fuch an attempt committed in his Houfe and in 
 his prefence, commanded the Raja's bodies to be thrown into the River 5 which 
 their Troops that they had left about Agra underltanding , threaten'd to 
 enter the City and pillage it. But rather than hazard the City, the King was 
 advis'd to deliver them the Bodies of their Princes. When they were to be burn'd, 
 thirteen Women belonging to the two Raja's Houfes, came dancing and leaping, 
 and prefently got upon the Funeral pile, holding cne another by hands, and 
 being prefently after ftifl'd with the fmoak, fell together into the fire. Prefently 
 the Bramins threw great heaps of Wood, pots of Oil, and other combuftible 
 matter upon them, to difpatch them the fooner. 
 
 I obferv'd a ftrange pafiage at Patna, being then with the Governour, a young 
 Gentleman of about twenty-four years of age, in his own Houfe. While I was 
 with him, in came a young woman, very handfome , and not above two and 
 and twenty years old, who defir'd leave of the Governour to be burnt with 
 the Body of her deceas'd Husband. The Governour compaiTionating her youth 
 and beauty, endeavour'd to divert her from her refolution j but finding he could 
 not prevail, with a furly countenance, he ask'd her whether me underftood what 
 the torment of fire was, and whether me had ever burnt her fingers ? No, no, 
 anfwer'd fhe more ftoutly than before, I do not fear fire, and to let you know 
 as much,, (end for a lighted Torch hither. The Governour abominating her 
 anfwer, in great pafTion bid her go to the Devil! Some young Lords that were 
 with the Governour, defir'd him to try the woman, and to call for a Torch $ 
 which with much ado he did, and a lighted Torch was brought. So foon as 
 the woman law the lighted Torch coming, fhe ran to meet it, and held her 
 hand in the flame, not altering her countenance in the leaft; Hill fearing her 
 arm along up to the very elbow, till her flefli look'd as if it had been broil'd 5 
 whereupon the Governour commanded her out of his fight. 
 
 A Bramin coming to Patna, and aflembling all his Tribe together, told them, 
 that they muft give him two thoufand Roupies, and twenty-feven Ells of Cali- 
 cut. To which the chief among them made him anfwer, that they were poor, and 1 
 could not poffibly raife fuch a fum. However he perfifted in his demand, po- 
 fitively affirming to them, that he would ftay there without eating or drink- 
 ing till they brought him the Money and the Cloath. With this refolution he 
 climb'd a Tree, and letting in the fork between the boughs, remainU there 
 without eating or drinking for feveral days. The noife of this extrava- 
 gance coming to the ears of the Hollanders where we lav, we fet Sentinels 
 to watch whether it were true, that a man could fet fo long without victu- 
 als, which he did for thirty days together. The one and thirtieth day of fuch 
 an extraordinary Faft, the Idolaters fearing to kill one of their Priefts for want 
 of granting him his demand , club'd together, and brought him his twenty- 
 (even Ells of Calicut, and two thoufand Roupies. So foon as the Bramin faw 
 the Money and the Cloath, he came down from the Tree 5 and after he had 
 upbraided thofe of his Tribe for want of Charity, he diftributed all the Roupies 
 
 among 
 
Book ni 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 among the poor, referving only five or fix for himfelf. The Cloth he cut into 
 little pieces, and gave away, keeping only to himfelf enough to cover his own 
 nakednefs ; and having made this diftribution, he difappear'd of a fudden, and no 
 body knew what became of him, though diligent fearch was made after him. 
 
 When a Chmefe lies at the point of death, all his Kindred and Friends gather 
 about him, and ask him whether he intends to go ; they tell him alfo, that if 
 he want any thing, he need but only ask and have, let it be Gold, Silver, or a 
 Woman. When they are dead they perform many Ceremonies at their Funerals, 
 which confifts chiefly in artificial fires, wherein the Chinefes are the molt expert 
 in the world } fo that he mult be a very poor man that has no fire-works at 
 his Funeral. Befides that, they put Money in a little Box, and bury it by the 
 deceas'd 5 and leave good Itore of viduals upon the Grave, out of an opinion 
 that they rife and eat. Which the Souldiers of BatavU obferVing, us'd to fill 
 their Bellies at thefe Graves every time they walk'd their rounds. But When 
 the Chinefes perceiv'd it,, they poyfon d the victuals to Ipoil the Dutchmen* fealb- 
 ing. The Townsmen of Batavia taking the Souldiers part, accus'd the Chi- 
 nefes for poyfoning leveral of the Dutch. But the Chinefes pleaded, that if the Sol- 
 diers had over-eat themfelves, or furfeted themfelves upon what was left for the 
 dead to eat, 'twas none of their fault ; for that they did not leave their victuals for 
 the Souldiers ; and befides that, among all the multitudes which they had bu- 
 ried, they never had heard the leaft complaint before of any one that ever came 
 by any harm by eating their food. Thus the bufinels Was nulh'd over j nor did 
 the Souldiers dare to pilfer any more. 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 
 Of the moft celebrated Pagods of the Idolaters in India. 
 
 THE Indian Idolaters have a great number of Temples, fmall and great, 
 which they call Pagods, where they pray to their Gods, and make their 
 Offerings. But the poor people that live in the Woods and Mountains, and re- 
 mote from Towns, are contented only with fome ftone, whereon they make a 
 rude kind of Nole, and paint it with Ibme Vermilion colour, which lerves all 
 the whole neighbourhood to worlhip. 
 
 The four moft celebrated Pagods, are fagrendte, Banarous , Matura, and 7W- 
 feti, 
 
 fagrenate is one of the mouths of Ganges, whereupon is built the Great Pa- 
 god, where the Arch Bramin, or chief Prieft among the Idolaters keeps his 
 refidence. The great Idol that ftands upon the Altar in the innermoft part of 
 the Pagod, has two Diamonds for his Eyes, and another that hangs about his 
 neck, the leaft of thole Diamonds weighing about forty Carats. About his 
 Arms he wears Bracelets fometimes of Pearls, and fometimes of Rubies $ and 
 this magnificent Idol is call'd Rcfora. The Revenues of this Pagod are fuffi- 
 cient to feed fifteen or twenty thouland Pilgrims every day ; which is a num- 
 ber often leen there, that Pagod being the greateft place of devotion in all /«- 
 dia. But you mult take notice, that no Goldfmith is fufferM' to enter this Pagod, 
 becaufe that one of them being lock'd in all night long, ftole a Diamond out 
 of one of the Idols eyes. As he was about to go out, when the Pagod was 
 bpen'd in the morning, he dy'd at the door 5 their God, as they affirm, re- 
 venging his own facriledg. That which renders this Pagod, which is a large build- 
 ing, the moft confiderable in all India, is, becaule it is fituated upon the Gara- 
 ges y the Idolaters believing that the waters of that River have a particular 
 quality to cleanfe them from their fins. That which makes it fo rich ( for it 
 maintains above twenty thbufand Cows ) is the vaft Alms that are continually 
 beftow'd by lb incredible a multitude as comes from all parts. Which Alms 
 are not fo much at the difcretion of the Donor, as at the will of the chief 
 
 Prieft/ 
 
174 Travels in India. Part II, 
 
 Prieft, who before he gives them leave to {have and warn in Ganges, taxes 
 them according to their quality, of which he has information. Thus he col- 
 lects vaft fums, of which he makes little or no profit himfelfj all going to feed 
 the poor, and the repair of the Pagod. The chief Bramin cades Victuals to 
 be diftributed to the Pilgrims every day ; as Milk, Rice, Butter, and Wheat ; 
 but to the poor, who want wherewithall to cook it, they diftribute their food 
 ready drefst. In the morning they boil a quantity of Rice in Earth'n pota 
 of different bignefs 5 and at the hour when the Pilgrims come for their meat,, 
 the chief Bramin orders another Bramin to take a pot of boil'd Rice ; this pot 
 he lets fall 5 and if there be five, the pot breaks into five equal parts, and eve- 
 ry one takes his own fhare. And in the lame manner he breaks it into more 
 pieces, if there be more perfons, to whom he is to diftribute the food. Which 
 is a thing very ftrange and worthy obfervation. They never boil twice in an 
 Earthen pot ; but in a Copper pot ; nor have they any other Dimes, than only 
 certain Leaves, which they faften together, and a certain kind of a Bafon, a- 
 bout a foot in compafs, wherein they melt their Butter, and ftir the Rice with 
 the. ends of their fingers when they eat. They have alfo a kind of a Shell,, 
 wherein they pour their melted Butter, which they will fwallow down, as we 
 do Sack. 
 
 Now for the defcription of a particular Idol which. ftands upon the Alrar.b 
 the Pagod of fagrenate : It is cover'd from the Shoulders downward with a 
 great Mantle that hangs down upon the Altar. This Mantle is of Tiflue of 
 Gold or Silver, according to the Solemnities. At firft it had neither feet nor 
 hands j but after one of their Prophets was taken up into Heaven, while they 
 were lamenting what to do for another, God fent them an Angel in the like- 
 ned of that Prophet, to the end they might continue their Veneration toward 
 him. Now while this Angel was bufie in making this Idol, the people grew 
 fo impatient, that they took him out of the Angels hands, and put him into 
 the Pagod without hands or feet •, but finding that the Idol appear'd in that 
 manner too deformed, they made him hands and arms of thole fmalh Pearls 
 which we call Ounce- Pearls. As for his feet, they are never feen, being hid un- 
 der his Cloak. There is no part op'n but his hands and feet ; the head and 
 body being of Sandel-wood'j round about the Duo mv y under which this Idol 
 ftands, being very high; from the bottom to the top, are only Niches fill'd 
 with other Idols; the greateft part whereof reprefent moft hideous Monfters, 
 being all of different colours. On each fide of this Pagod, there ftands ano- 
 ther much lefs, where the Pilgrims make their lefier Offerings. And fome 
 that have in ficknefs, or upon bufinefs made any Vows to any Deity, bring thi- 
 ther the refemblance thereof in remembrance of the good which they have re- 
 ceiv'd. They rub this Idol every day with fweet Oils, that make it of a black 
 colour. And at the right hand of this Idol fits his Sifter, who ftands upon her 
 feet, and is well clad, being caU'd by the name of Sot or a; upon his left, ftands 
 liis Brother, cloath'd all over alfo, whom they call Balhader. Before the Idol, 
 fomewhat toward his left hand, ftands the Idols Wife upon her feet, all of maffy 
 Gold, by the name of Remin; whereas the other three are only of Sandal- 
 wood. 
 
 The two other Pagod« are appointed for the refidence of the chief Bramin, 
 and other Bramins that officiate in the great Pagod. All thefe Bramins go with 
 their heads bare, and for the moft part fhav'd ; having no other Cloathes but 
 only one piece of Calicut, with one half whereof they cover their bodies 
 the other part ferves them inftead of a Scarf. Near the Pagod ftands the Tomb 
 of one of their Prophets, whofe name was Cabir, to whom they give great 
 honour. You are to take notice alfo , that their Idols ftand upon a kind of 
 Altar, encompafs'd with Iron Bars. For no perfons are to touch them, but only 
 certain Bramins, appointed for that fervice by the chief Bramtn. 
 
 Next to that of fagrenate, the moft famous Pagod is that of Banarous,be~ 
 ing alfo feated upon the Ganges, in a City that bears the fame name. That 
 which is moft remarkable is, that from the Gate of the Pagod to the River 
 there is a defcent all of Stone ; near to which are certain Platforms, and finall 
 blind Chambers, fome for the Bramins lodging, others where they drefs their 
 
 victuals 5 
 
Book III. Travels in India. 
 
 vi&uals ; for fo fbon as the Idolaters have faid their Prayers, and made their Of- 
 ferings, they drefs their food, not fufFering any perfon to touch it but themfelves, 
 for fear left any unclean perfon mould come neer it. But above all things, they 
 paffionately defire to drink of Ganges water 3 for as often as they drink it, they 
 are wafh'd, as they believe, from all their fins. Great numbers of thefe Bramins 
 go every day to the cleaneft part of the River, where they fill their little round 
 earthen-pots full of water, the mouths whereof are very fmalJ, and contain every 
 one of them a Bucket-full. Being thus fill'd, they bring them before the great 
 Prieft, who covers them with a fine piece of flame- colour'd Calicut, three or four 
 times doubl'd, to which he fets his Seal. The Bramins carry thefe. pots, fome 
 fix of , them ty'd together with fix little cords faften'd to the end of a ftick as 
 broad as a lath, fhifting their moulders often ; travelling fometimes three or four 
 hunder'd leagues with thofe precious burthens up into the Countrey. Where they 
 fell it, roprefentitj but that is only to the rich, from whence they expecl; 
 great rewards. There are fome of thefe Idolaters, who when they make any 
 great Feaft, efpecially when they marry their children, will drink four or five- 
 nunder'd Crowns in this water. They never drink of it till the end of their meals • 
 and then a glafs or two according to the liberality of the Mafter of the Feaft. The 
 chief reafon why they efteem the water of Ganges fo highly, is, becaufe it never 
 putrifies, nor engenders any vermin ; though I know not whether they may be 
 believ'd, confidering the great quantity of dead bodies which they fling into the 
 Ganges. 
 
 The body of the Pagod of Banarons is made like a Crofs, as are all the reft of 
 the Pagods, the four parts whereof are equal. In the midft there is ^Cupola 
 rais'd verv high, the top whereof is pyramidal ; at the end alfo of every four 
 parts of the Crofs there is a Tower, to which there is an afcent on the out-fide. 
 Before you come to the top, there are feveral Balconies and Niches wherein to 
 take the frelh air : and round about are figures of all forts of creatures, but very 
 Leud work. Under the Dxomo } in the middle of the Pagod there is an Altar, like 
 a Table, eight foot long, and fix foot broad, with two fteps before, that ferve for 
 afooutool, which is cover'd fometimes with a rich Tapeftry, fometimes with 
 Silk, fometimes with Cloath of Gold or Silver, according to the folemnity of 
 their Feftival. Their Altars are cover d with Cloath of Gold or Silver, or elfe 
 with fome painted Calicuts. Approaching the entry of the Pagod, you fee tht 
 Altar right before ye, together with the Idols which are upon it. For the Wo- 
 men and Virgins worfbip without, not being permitted to enter the Pagod, no 
 more than is a certain Tribe which is among them. Among the Idols that ftand 
 upon the great Altar, there is one plac'd upright fome five or fix foot high j bat 
 you can fee neither arms, nor legs, nor body : nothing appears but the head and 
 neck, all the reft being cover'd down to the Altar with a Robe that fpreads it felf 
 below. Sometimes you (hall fee the neck fet out with fome rich Chain either of 
 Gold, Rubies, Pearls, or Emraulds. This Idol was made in honour and likenefs of 
 Bainma-dou, who was heretofore a very great and holy Perionage among them, 
 whofe name they oft'n have in their mouths. Upon the right-fide of the Altar, 
 ftands the figure of a Chimera, part Elephant, part Horfe, part Mule. It is of 
 mafTive Gold., and they call it Gafott, not fufFering any perfon to approach it but 
 the Bramins. They fay it is the refemblance of the Beaft which carri'd that holy 
 perfon when he liv'd upon earth. And that he travell'd long journeys upon his 
 back, to fee if the people remain'd in their duty, and whether they did no wrong 
 one to another. Between the great Gate and the great Altar upon the left-hand, 
 there is a little Altar,upon which there ftands an Idol of black Marble fitting crofs- 
 legg'd, about two foot high. While I was there, a little Boy who was the Son of 
 the High-Prieft ftood upon the left-fide of the Altar, and all the people threw him 
 certain pieces of Taffata, or embroider'd Calicut, like Handkerchiefs, all which he 
 return'd to she people again after he had wip'd them upon the Idol. Others 
 threw him Bracelets of Coral, others of yellow Amber, others threw him fruits 
 and flowers ; whatever they threw him, he rubb'd it upon the Idol , put it to 
 his lips, and then reftor'd it to the people. This Idol is call'd MarU-Ram ) that 
 is to fay GoA-MorU) and was the Brother of him that ftands upon the great Al- 
 
Travels in India. 
 
 Part. II 
 
 Under the Portal of the Pagod fits one of the principal Bramins with a great 
 Bafon by him, full of a yellow colour mix'd with water. All thefe poor Idola- 
 ters come and prefent themfelves before him, who gives them a mark from be- 
 tween the eyes to the top of the nofe, then upon the arms, and upon the ftomach 5 
 by which marks they know who have wafh'd themfelves in Ganges, and who not. 
 Thofe that never wafh'd themlelves but in the waters of their own Wells, or have 
 only fent for it from the River, they do not believe to be perfectly punfi'd, and 
 by confequence they are not to be mark'd with that colour. By the way take 
 notice, that thefe Idolaters arc mark'd with different colours, according to the 
 Tribe they are of. But in the Empire of the Great Mogul, they who are painted 
 ? with yellow compofe the biggelt Tribe, and are the leait defiPd. For when they 
 are neceffitated to the deeds of nature, fome think it nut enough to warn the part 
 delil'd ; but they firft rub the part with a handful of fand, and then fccur it with 
 water. After fo doing, they affirm their bodies to be clean, and that they can 
 eat their food without fear. 
 
 Neer to this great Pagod upon the Summer-weft, ftands a kind of a Colledg, 
 which the Raja fefemg, the moft Potent of all the Idolaters in the Mogul's Em- 
 pire, built for the education of the youth of the better fort. I law two of the 
 children of that Prince there at School, who had for their Mailers feveral Bra- 
 mins, who taughf them to write and read in a language peculiar to the Idolaters 
 Prielts, and far different from the fpeech of the common people. Entring into the 
 Court of that Colledg, and calling my eyes up, I difcover'd two Galleries that 
 went round the Court, where I law the two Princes fitting, attended by feveral 
 petty Lords and Bramins , who made feveral Mathematical Figures upon the 
 ground with chalk. The two Princes feeing -me, lent to know who I was ; and 
 understanding that I was a Frank., they fent for me up, and ask'd me feveral 
 queftions touching Europe, and particularly touching Fr A ,:ce. Whereupon there 
 being two Globes in the room which the Hollanders had giv'n the Bramins, I 
 lhew'd the Princes where France lay upon one of them. After I had taken leave, 
 I ask'd one of the Bramins when I might fee the Pagod open : he anfwer'd me, 
 the next morning before Sun-rifing. When I came there, I obferv'd before the 
 door, a Gallery fupported with Pillars, where there was already a great crowd of 
 men, women and children expeding when the Pagod would be open'd. By and 
 by, the Gallery, and a great part of the Count being full, there came eight Bra- 
 mins, four of each fide of the Gate, with every one a Cenfer in his hand, follow'd 
 by a rabble of other Bramins that made a hideous noife with Drums and other In- 
 ftruments. The two eldeft of the Bramins fing a Song j and then all the people, 
 falling into the tune, fall a ringing and playing, with every one a Peacock's-tail, or 
 fome other kind of flabel, to drive away the flies, that the Idol nwy not be an-' 
 annoid when they op'n the Pagod. This fanning, and the Mufick, lafted a good 
 half hour. Then the two principal Bramins made a great noife three times with 
 two little Bells, and with a kind of a Mallet knockt at the Pagod-door. Which 
 was prefently open'd by fix Bramins within, difcovering, fome fix or feven paces 
 from the entrance, an Altar with an Idol upon it, which they call Ram, Ram, the 
 Sifter of Morli-Ram, Upon her right-hand fhe has a child made like a great Cu- 
 pid, which they call the God La-kemin, and in her left-arm a little Girl, which 
 they call the Goddefs Sit a. So foon as the Pagod was open, and that a great Cur- 
 tain was drawn, the people, who pereeiv'd the Idol, fell upon the ground, laying 
 their hands upon their heads,and proftrating themfelves three times.Then rifing up, 
 they threw great quantities of Nofegays and Garlands to the preifts ; with which 
 the Bramins touch'd the Idol, and then reftor'd them again. Before the Altar ftood 
 a Brawn, who held in his hand a lamp of nine weeks lighted, upon which he caft 
 Incenfe every foot, arid then held it to the Idol. All thefe ceremonies lafted above 
 an hour 3 after which the people departed, and the Pagod was fhut. They pre- 
 fented the Idol with great ftore of Rice, Meal, Butter, Oil, and Milk-meats, of 
 which the Bramins lofe nothiag. Now in regard this Idol is the reprefentation of 
 a Woman, the Women all invoke it, and call her their ParrOnefs : which is the 
 reafon that the place is generally crowded with Women and Maids. The Raja, to 
 have this Idol in the Pagod of hh own houfe, and fbr taking it out of the great 
 Pagod, has expended as well upon the Bramins, as in alms to the poor, above five 
 Lucres of Roupies, or 750000 Livres of our Money. On 
 
Book III. Travels in India. 177 
 
 On the other fide of the Street where the Colledg is built, there ftands another 
 Pagod, call'd Richourdas, from the name of the Idol, which is within upon the Al- 
 tar : and fomewhat lower upon another fmall Altar Hands another Idol, which they 
 call Goupaldas, the Brother of Richourdas. You fee nothing but the face of all 
 thefe Idols, which is either of wood or jet; unlefs it be the Idol of Morly-Ram, 
 which ftands in the great Pagod ftark naked. As for the Idol Ram-Kam, which 
 ftands in the Raja's Pagod, it has two Diamonds inftead of eyes, which the Prince 
 caus'd to be fet there, with a Coller of Pearl, and Canopy over his head, fup- 
 ported with four Silver-Pillars. 
 
 Some eight days journey from Banarous, bending Northward, you enter into 
 a Mountainous Countrey ; but which fometimes op'ns it felf into very large 
 plains, fometimes three or four leagues in length. They are very fertil in Corn, 
 Rice, Wheat and Pulfe. But that which is the plague and ruine of the people of 
 that Countrey, is the vaft number of Elephants that breed there, and devour their 
 Harveft. If a Caravan pafs through any part of that Countrey where there are 
 no Inns, in regard the people are forc'd to lye in the op'n Fields, they have much 
 ado to defend themfelves from the Elephants that will come to' take away their 
 provifions. To skare them, the people make great fires, moot off their Muf- 
 kets, hooping and hollowing ever and anon. In this place there is another Pagod, 
 well-built, and very ancient, adorn'd with many figures both within and without, 
 which are only the reprefentations of Maids and Women ; fo that Men are feldom 
 known to repair thither for devotion's-fake ; and therefore it is call'd the Wo- 
 mens Pagod. There is an Altar in the middle, as in other Pagods ; and upon the 
 Altar an Idol of malTy Gold, four foot high, reprefenting a Maid ftanding upright, 
 which they call Ram-Marion. At her right-hand ftands a Child of mafty Silver, 
 about two foot high ; and they fay that the Maid liv'd a very holy life , that that 
 Child was brought to her by the Bramins to be inftrufted in her belief, and in the 
 knowledg of well-living : but that after two or three years that the Child had liv'd 
 with her, the Infant grew fo knowing and ready-witted, that all the Raja's of the 
 Countrey long'd for her company ; fo that being ftoll'n from her one night, fhe 
 was never feen afterwards. Upon the left-hand of this Idol ftands another Idol, 
 reprefenting an old Man j who, as they fay, was the fervant of Ram-Marion 
 and the Infant : for which reafon the Bramins do very much reverence this Idol. 
 They never come but once a year in devotion, but they muft be there upon a pre-, 
 fix'd day, which is the firft of November, though they never op'n the Pagod till 
 the full of the Moon. During thofe fifteen days, the Pilgrims, as well Men 
 as Women, faft from time to time, and wafh themfelves three times a-day, not 
 leaving a hair in any part of their bodies, which they take off with a certain 
 earth. 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 A Continuation of the description of the principal 'Pagods of 
 
 the Indian Idolaters. 
 
 NExt to the Pagods of Jngrenate and Banarous , the moft confiderable 
 is that of Matur a, about eighteen leagues from Agra, upon the way to 
 Dehly. It is one of the moft fumptuous Edifices in all India, and the place to 
 which the greateft number of Pilgrims was wont to refort : But now there are 
 very few or none ; the Idolaters having infenfibly loft the reverence which they 
 had for that Pagod, fince the River of Gemena, that formerly ran by that Pagod, 
 has chang'd its courfe, above half a league from it. For it requires fo much 
 time to return to the Pagod. after they have wafh'd in the River, that they were 
 many times defil'd again before they could reach it. Though this Pagod ftand in 
 a bottom, yet you may difcover it five or fix leagues before you come at it, the 
 building being very lofty and magnificent. The Stones are of a red colour, 
 
 * A a which 
 
78 Travels in India. Part. II. 
 
 which they fetch from a Quarry neer Agra. They cleave like our Slates, fome 
 of them being fifteen foot long, and nine or ten foot broad, yet not above 
 fix ringers thick, especially when you cleave, them as you would have them for 
 ufe : They alfo make very fair Pillars. TheFortrefs of Agra, the Walls of Jeba- 
 nabat, the King's Houfe, the two Mofquees, and feveral Noblemens Houfes are 
 all built of this Stone. 
 
 The Pagod is built upon a great Platform of an OBogonal Figure, pav'd with 
 Free-ftone ; being adorn'd round about with the figures of all forts of crea- 
 tures, efpecially Apes. There is an afcent ro it two ways of fifteen or fixteeii 
 fteps a-piece, every ftep being two foot broad, for two perfons to go a-breft. 
 One of the afcents.leads up to the great Portal of the Pagod, the other behind 
 up to the Chancel. The Pagod does not take up above half the Platform, the 
 other half ferving for a Piaz.z.a before it. The Structure is in the form of a 
 Crofs, like the reft of the Pagods, in the midft whereof a great Dmmo, with 
 two others of each fide fome what left, advance themfelves above the reft of 
 the building. The out-fide of the building from top to bottom is adorn'd 
 with the hgures of Rams, Apes and Elephants, and feveral forts of Mon/- 
 fters. From one foot below every one of thefe Dmmo's, to the Roof, at; 
 fuch and fuch fpaces., are Windows,, fome five, fome fix feet high, and to 
 every Window belongs a Balcone, where four perfons may ftand. Every Bal- 
 cone is cover'd with a little Arch, fupported by four Pillars, others by eight, 
 every two touching one another. Round about the Duo-ma's are Niches fill'd 
 with the figures of D&mons. Some with four arms, fome with four legs. 
 Some with mens heads npon the bodies of Beafts, and long tails that hang 
 down to their thighes : There are abundance of Apes ; and indeed it is an 
 ugly fight to behold fo many deform'd fpectacles. There, is but one great 
 door to the Pagod, upon each fide whereof there are Pillars and Figures of 
 Men and Monlters. The hinder-part is clos'd with a clofe Balifter of Stone- 
 Pillars five or fix inches in Diameter, into which, as into a kind of Santtum 
 Sanftorum, none but the Bramins are permitted to enter : but for Money, I got 1 
 in, and faw a fquare Aitar fome fifteen or fixteen foot from the door, co- 
 ver'd with an old Tiffue of Gold and Silver, upon which ftood the great ldoJ 3 
 which they call Ram, Ram. You fee nothing but his head-, which is of a very 
 black Marble_, with two Rubies inftead of eyes. All the body, from the fhoul- 
 ders to the feet, is cover'd with a Robe of Purple- Velvet, with fome fmall 
 embroidery. There are two other Idols on each fide of him two foot high, ap- 
 parell'd in the fame manner; only their faces are white, which they call Bee- 
 chor. There I alfo law a Machine fixteen foot fquare, and between twelve and' 
 fifteen foot high j cover'd with painted CalicutSj reprefenting the fhapes of De- 
 vils. This Machine running upon four Wheels, they told me, was a moving 
 Altar, upon which they carri'd their great God in Proceffion to vifit the other 
 Gods, as alfo to the River, whither all the people went upon their great FeftP 
 val. 
 
 The fourth Pagod is that of Tripeti, in the Province of Carnatica, toward the 
 Coaft of Coromandel, and Cape Comorin. I faw it as I went to Maflipatan. It is a 
 Pagod to which there belong a great number of little lodgings for the Bramins : 
 fo that altogether it feems to be a great Town. There are feveral Ponds round 
 about it ; but their fuperftition is fo great, that no Paffenger dare take any water 
 out of them, but what the Bramin gives him. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Book 301 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 chap. XIII. 
 
 Of the 'Pilgrimages of the Idolaters to their Pagods. 
 
 -ALL the Idolaters under the Dominion of the Great Mogul, and other 
 JpV Princes, both on this fide and beyond Ganges, at leaft once in their lives 
 go in Pilgrimage to one of thefe Pagods that I have nam'd j but moft gene- 
 rally to that of fngrenate, as being the firft and moft confiderable above all the 
 reft. The Bramins and rich people go oftner. For fome go every four years, 
 lome every fix, or eight j and putting the Idols of their Pagods upon Pallekies 
 cover'd with "Rimes, they travell with their Bramins , as it were in proceffion to 
 the Pagod widen they moft efteem. 
 
 They go not in Pilgrimage one by one, or two and two, but whole Towns, 
 and many times feveral Towns together. The poor that go a great way, 
 are fupply'd by the rich ; Who fpend very freely in fuch ads of Charity. The 
 rich travel in Pallekies or Chariots, the poor on foot, or upon Oxen ; the Wife 
 carrying the Child, and the man the Kitchin Implements. 
 
 The Idol which they carry in proceflion, by way of vifit, and out of refpecT: 
 to the great Ram-Ram, lies at length in a rich Palleky, cover'd with Tifiue 
 of Gold and Silver, fring'd as richly ; the Mattrefs and Bolfter being of the 
 lame ltuff under the head, feet, and elbows. The Bramins alfo distribute Fla- 
 bels to the moft confiderable of the Company, the handles whereof being eight 
 foot long, are plated with Gold and Silver. The Flabel being three foot in Dia- 
 meter, of the fame Tiffue as the Pallekies 5 round about, it is adorn'd with 
 Peacocks Feathers to gather more wind, and fometimes with Bells to make a 
 kind of tingling. There are fix of thefe Flabels ufually employ'd to keep off 
 the Flies from their God $ the better fort taking it by turns, that the honour 
 of waiting upon their God may be more equally fhar'd. 
 
 CKAP. XIV. 
 Of divers Cujloms of the Indian Idolaters, 
 
 TU E Bramins are well skill'd in Aftrology j and will exactly foretell to the peo- 
 ple the Eclipfes of the Sun and Moon. The fecond of July 1666 } about one 
 a Clock in the afternoon, at Patna in Bengala, there was an Eclipfe 
 of the Sun ; at which time it was a prodigious thing to lee the multitudes of 
 people, men, women, and children, that ran to the River Ganges, to wafh them- 
 lelves. But it behoves them to begin to wafh three days before the Eclipfe j 
 all which time they labour day and night in providing all forts of Rice, Milk, 
 Meats, and Sweatmeats, to throw to the Fifh and Crocodiles, as foon as the 
 Bramins give the word. Whatever Eclipfe it be whether of the Sun or Moon, 
 the Idolaters as foon as it appears, break all their Earthen Pots and Dimes in 
 the houfe, which makes a hideous noife altogether. 
 
 Every Bramin has his Magick Book, wherein are abundance of Circles and 
 Semicircles, Squares, Triangles, and feveral forts of Cifers. They alfo make 
 fcveral Figures upon the ground, and when they find that the good hour is 
 come, they cry aloud to the people to feed the fifh. Then there enfue,s 
 a moft horrible din of Drums, Bells, and great noife of founding Mettal,which they 
 twang one againft another. And as foon as the victuals are thrown into the Ri- 
 ver, the people are to go in and wafh and rub themfelves till the Eclipfe be o- 
 VCr. So that in regard the waters were at that time very high,for more than three 
 Leagues above and below the City, and all the breadth of the River, there 
 
 * A a » was 
 
Travels in India. 
 
 Part II. 
 
 was nothing to be feen but the heads of the people. As .for the Bramins, they ■ 
 ftay afhore to receive the richer fort, and thofe that give moft ; to dry their 
 bodies, and to give them dry Linnen to their bellies. Afterwards they caufe 
 them to fit down in a Chair, where the moft liberal of the Idolaters have pro- 
 vided Rice, Pulfe, Milk, Butter, Sugar, Meal, and Wood. Before the Chair the 
 Bramin makes a place very clean about five foot fquare ; then with Cow-dung 
 fteep'd in a kind of yellow Bafon, he rubs all the place, for fear any Emet mould 
 come there to be burnt. For indeed they would never make ufe of Wood if 
 they could help it ; and when they do, they are very careful that there be no 
 Worms or Infects in it. In the place which they have thus cleans'd, they draw 
 feveral Figures, as Triangles, Ovals, Half-Ovals, &c. Then upon every Figure 
 they lay a little Cows-dung, with two or three fmall lticks. of Wood, upon 
 every one of which they lay a feveral fort of Grain ; after that pouring Butter, 
 and fetting fire to each ; by the fmoak which rifes, they judg of the plenty 
 of every fort of Grain that year. 
 
 When the Moon is at the full in March, they keep a folemn Feftival for their 
 Idol, which is in form of a Serpent. This Feftival continues nine days ; and 
 when it comes, they do nothing but make Holiday all the while, as well menr 
 as beafts, which they beautifie by making Circles about their eyes with Ver- 
 million, with which they alfo colour the Horns 5 and if they have a particular 
 kindnefs for the beaft, they hang them with Leaves of guilded Tin. Every 
 morning they worfliip the Idol, and the Maids dance abour it for an hour, to 
 the noHe of Fluits and Drums ; after which they eat and drink and are merry 
 till the evening, and then they worfhip and dance about their Idol again. 
 
 Though the Idolaters never drink any ftrong drink at other times, yet at 
 this Feftival they drink Palm-wine, and ftrong water, which is made of the 
 feme in remote Villages ; for elfe their Mahometan Governour would not fuffer 
 them to make Wine, nor to lell any which might be brought out of Perfia. 
 
 Their ftrong Water is thus made : They take a great Earthen pot, well glaz'd 
 within, which they call Martavane j into one of thefe Veflels, that holds three 
 hundred Paris pints of Palma-w'me, they put in fifty or fixty pound of brown 
 Sugar unrefin'd, which looks like yellow Wax ; with about twenty pound of a 
 great thick bark of a Thorn, not much unlike that which our Leather- dreflers 
 ufe. This bark fets the Palma-w'me a bubling and working juft like our new 
 wines, for five or fix days together,' till it becomes of a fweet Liquor , as 
 fowre as our Crabs. Then they diltill it, and according to the tafte they would 
 give, they either put into a Cauldron full, a little £ag of Mace, or three or 
 four handfuts of Annife-feed. They can make it alfo as ftrong as they pleafe. 
 
 Being at ^gra in the year 1642, an Idolater, whofe name xvasWoldas, Broa- 
 ker to the Hollanders , about feventy years of age, receiving news that the 
 chief Bramin of the Pagod of Matura was dead, went to the Hollander and 
 defir'd him to even all accounts ; for faid he, the chief Prieft being dead, it 
 behoves me to dye, that I may ferve him in the other world. Thereupon 
 having ended his accounts, he took his Coach , with fome of his Kindred ; 
 but having neither eaten nor drank from the time he receiv'd the news^ he 
 dy'd by the way j having famifh'd himfelf for grief. 
 
 The Indian Idolaters have a cuftom, that when any perfon gives a thing, 
 they fnap their fingers, crying our, Gi-Narami, remember Narami, who was 
 a great Saint among them, for fear the Evil Spirit mould enter into the body 
 of him that gives. 
 
 Being at Surat in the year 165 3, a Rajpoure being demanded Cuftom for 
 three or four pieces of Calicut, boldly ask'd the Governour, whether a Soul- 
 dier that had lerv'd the King all his life-time, ought to pay Cuftom for two 
 or three pitiful pieces of Calicut, not worth four or five Roupies ; telling him 
 it was only to cloath his Wife and Children. The Governour netl'd at his 
 fawcinefs, call'd him Bethico, or Son of a Whore ; adding, that if he were Prince 
 he would make him pay his Cuftoms. Whereupon the Souldier incens'd at the 
 affront, making as if he felt for Money to pay his dues, bearing up to the Go- 
 vernor, ftab'd him in the belly, fo that he dy'd immediately. But the Soul- 
 dier was prcfently cut in pieces by the Governors Servants. 
 
 Though 
 
Book nr. 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Though the Idolaters are in utter darknefs as to the knowledg of the true 
 God, however the Law of Nature teaches them Morality in many things. When 
 they are married they are feldom falfe to their Wives. Adultery is very rare 
 among them. And as for Sodomy I never heard it mention'd. They marry their 
 Children between feVen and eight years old, for fear they mould fall into that 
 vice; the Ceremonies whereof are thefe: The day before the Nuptials, the 
 Bridegroom, accompany'd by aJl his Kindred, goes to the Houfe where the 
 Bride lives, with a great pair of Bracelets, two fingers thick, hollow within, 
 and in two pieces, with a hinge in the middle to open them. According to the 
 quality of the Bride thole Bracelets are of more or lefs value, fometimes of 
 Gold, fometimes of Silver, Tin, or Latten, the pooreft fort of all making ufe 
 of Lead. The next day there is a great Feaft at the Bridegrooms Houfe, whe- 
 ther all the Kindred on both fides are invited, and about three a Clock in the 
 afternoon the Bride is brought thither. Then the chief of the Bramins that 
 are there , of which there are always feveral, laying the head of the Bride 
 to the Bridegrooms, pronounces feveral words, fprinkling their heads and bo- 
 dies all the while with water. Then they bring him upon Plates or Fig-leaves 
 feveral forts of Meats, Calicuts, and Stuffs ; and then the Bramin asks the 
 Bridegroom, whether fo long as God fhall make him able, he will let his Wife 
 lhare with him, and whether he will endeavour to maintain her by his labour. 
 If he fays yes, they all fet themfelves down to the Feaft prepar'd for them, 
 where every one eats by himfelf. If the Bride be rich, and be acquainted 
 among the Nobility, their Weddings are very pompous and expenfive. The 
 Bridegroom is mounted upon an Elephant, and the Bride rides in a Chariot ; 
 the whole Company carrying Torches in their hands. They alfo borrow of the 
 Governour and the Nobility of the place , as many Elephants and prancing 
 Horfes as they can get. And they walk fome part of the night with Fire- 
 works, which they throw about the Streets and Piazza's. But the greateft 
 expence to thofe that live three or four hundred Leagues from it, is to get the wa- 
 ter of Ganges j for in regard they account that water facred, and drink it out 
 of devotion, it muft be brought them by the Bramins, and in Earthen Velfels, 
 glaz'd within fide, which the chief Bramin of Ingrenate fills himfelf with the 
 pureft Water of the River, and then feals up with his own Seal. They never 
 drink this water till the end of the Feaft, and then they give their guefts three 
 or more glaffes apiece. This water coming fo far, and the chief Bramin de- 
 manding a Tribute for every pot, which contains a Pail-full, fometimes a wed- 
 ding comes to two or three thoufand Roupies. 
 
 The eighth of April, being in a City of BengaU call'd Malde, the Idolaters 
 made a great Feaft, according to the particular Cuftom of that place ; they all 
 go out of the City, and faften Iron hooks to the boughs of feveral Trees, then 
 come a great number of poor people and hang themfelves, fbme by the fides, 
 fome by the brawn of their backs, upon thofe hooks, till the weight of their 
 body tearing away the flefh, they fall of themfelves. Tis a wonderful thing to 
 fee that not fo much as one drop of blood mould iffue from the wounded flefh, 
 nor that any of the flefli fhould be left upon the hook ; befides, that in two 
 days they are perfectly cur'd by fuch Plaifters as their Bramins give them. 
 There are others who at that Feaft will lye upon a bed of nails, with the points 
 upward, the nails cntring a good way into the flefh j however while thefe peo- 
 ple are under this Pennance, their Friends come and prefent them with Money 
 and Linnen. When they have undergone their Penance, they take the prefents 
 and diftribnte them to the poor, without making any farther advantage of 
 them. I ask'd one, why they made that Feaft, and fuffer'd thofe fevere Pe- 
 nances ; who ahfwer'd me, that it was in remembrance of the firft man, whom 
 they call'd Adam, as we do. 
 
 In the year 1666, I faw another fort of Penance, as I crofs'd the Ganges % 
 upon the Bank of which River they had prepar'd a clean place, whore one of 
 the poor Idolaters was condemn'd to reft upon the ground, touching it only 
 with his hands and feet } which he was to do feveral times a dav, and every 
 time to kifs the earth three times before he rofe up again. He was to rife up 
 upon his left foot, never touching the ground with his right all the while. And 
 
 every 
 
l82 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 PartH. 
 
 every day for a month together before he either eat or drank he was oblig'd 
 to this pofture for fifty times together, and confequently to kifs the ground a 
 hundred and fifty times. He told me, that the Bramins had enjoin'd him that 
 Penance becaufe he had fuffer'd a Cow to dye in his Houfe, and had not lead 
 her to the water to be wafh'd before fhe dy'd. 
 
 When an Idolater has loft any piece of Gold or Silver, or fumm of Money 
 either by negligence, or as being ftoln from him, he is oblig'd to carry as much 
 as he loft to the great Bramin ; for if he does not, and that the other mould 
 come to know of it, he is ignominioufly caft out of his Tribe, to make him 
 niore careful another time. 
 
 On the other fide the Ganges Northward, toward the Mountains of Naugro- 
 cot, there are two or three Raja's, who neither believe God nor the Devil. 
 Their Bramms have a book containing their Belief, full of ridiculous abfurdi- 
 ties, whereof the Author whofe name is Baudou gives no reafon. Thefe Raj^s 
 are the Great Moguls Vafials, and pay him Tribute. 
 
 To conclude the Malavares carefully preferve the nails of their left hands, 
 and let their hair grow like women's. Thefe nails, which are half a finger long, 
 ferve them inftead of Combs ; and it is with their left hand that they do all 
 their drudgery, never touching their faces., nor what they eat, but with their 
 right hands. 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 
 Of the Kingdom of Boutan, whence comes the Musk, the good Rhu- 
 barb, and fome Furs. 
 
 TH E Kingdom of Boutan is of a large extent ; but I could never yet come 
 to a perfect knowledg thereof. I have fet down all that I could learn 
 at Patna, whither the Merchants of Boutan come to fell their Musk. The 
 moft excellent Rhubarb comes alfo from the Kingdom of Boutan. From hence 
 is brought alfo that Seed which is good againft the worms., therefore call'd 
 Wormleed ; and good ftore of Furs. As for the Rhubarb, the Merchants run 
 a great hazard which way foever they bring it •, for if they take the Northern 
 Road, toward C about, the wet fpoils it ; if the Southern Road, in regard the 
 journey is long, if the Rains happen to fall, there is as much danger that way j 
 fo that there is no Commodity requires more care then that. 
 
 As for the Musk, during the heats the Merchant lofes by it, becaufe it 
 dries and lofes its weight. Now in regard this Commodity pays twenty-five 
 in the hundred Cuftom at Gorrochepour, the laft Town belonging to the Great 
 Mogul, next to the Kingdom of Boutan, when the Indian Merchants come to 
 that City, they go to the Officer of the Cuftom-Houfe, and tell him that they are 
 going to Boutan to buy Musk or Rhubarb, and how much they intend to lay 
 out ; all which the Officer Regifters, with the name of the Merchant. Then 
 the Merchants inftead of twenty-five, agree with him for feven or eight in the 
 hundred, and take a Certificate from the Officer or Cadi, that he may not de- 
 mand any more at their return. If the Officer refufes a handfom compofition, 
 then they go another way, over Defarts and Mountains cover'd with Snow, 
 tedious and troublefome, till they come to Caboul, where the Caravans part, 
 fome for great Tartary, others for Batch. Here it is that the Merchants coming 
 from Boutan barter their Commodities for Horles, Mules, and Camels ; for there 
 is little Money in that Country. Then thofe Tartars tranfport their Commo- 
 dities into Perfia, as far as Ardev'de and Tauris $ which is the reafon that fome 
 Europeans have thought that Rhubarb and Wormfeed came out of Tartary. 
 True* it is, that fome Rhubarb comes from thence j but not fo good as thac 
 of Boutan, being fooner corrupted for Rhubarb will eat out its own heart. The 
 "'"mars carry back out of Perfia Silks of fmall value, which are made in Tauris 
 
 and 
 
Book II. "Travels in India. 183. 
 
 ■ ■ — ) . — in 1 ... . 
 
 and Ardcvile, and fome Englijh Cloth brought by the Armenians from Confian- 
 tinople and Smyrna. Some of the Merchants that come from Caboul and Boh* 
 tan go to Candahar } and thence to Ifpahan ; whether they carry Coral in Beads, 
 yellow Amber, and Lapis Lazuli Beads, if they can meet with it. The other 
 Merchants that come from the Coaft of Mult an, Lahor i and Agra } bring only 
 Linnons, Indigo, and ftore of Cornelian and Chriftal Beads. Thofe that return 
 through Gorrochepour, and are agreed with the Officer of the Cuftom-HoLife-j 
 carry from Patna and Daca } Coral, yellow Amber., Bracelets of Tortois-fhells, 
 and other Shells, with great ftore of round and fquare thick pieces , of Tor- 
 tois. When I was at Patna, four Armenians who had been before at ; Bout.an^ 
 feturn'd from Dantz,ici^> where they had made certain Figures of yellow Amr 
 ber, reprefenting the fhapes of feveral Creatures and Moniters, which they were 
 carrying to the King of Boutan, who is an Idolater, as are all his people, tq 
 let up in his Pagods. For the Armenians for Money will fell any thing of Ido- 
 latry $ and they told me befides, that if they could but have made the Idol 
 which the King of Boman bespoke of them, they mould have done their bufi- 
 nefs. Which was to have been a Monfters head, with fix horns, four ears, four 
 arms, and fix fingers upon every hand, all of yellow Amber j but they could 
 not find pieces big enough. 
 
 The Caravan is three months travelling from Patna to the Kingdom of Bon- 
 tan. It fets out from Patna about the end of December^ and eight days after ' 
 arrives at Gorrochepour. 
 
 From Gorrochepour to the foot of the high Mountains, is eight or nine days 
 journey more, during which the Caravan fuffers very much hardfhip, for the 
 Country is nothing but wide Forrefts, full of wild Elephants. So that the Merr 
 chants, inftead of taking their refts, are forc'd to watch, keep fires, and fhoot 
 off their Muskets all the night long. For the Elephant making no noife in treadl- 
 ing, would elfe be upon the Caravan before they were aware ; not that he 
 comes to do any mifchief to the men, but to get what victuals he can find. 
 You may travel from Patna to the foot of thofe Mountains in Palleki's. But gene-* 
 rally they ride upon Oxen, Camels, or Horfes, bred in the Country. Thofe 
 Horfes are generally fo little, that when a man is upon the back of them, his 
 feet touch the ground ; but they will travel twenty Leagues an end, and never 
 bait, or elfe with a very fmall one. Some of thofe Horfes coft two hundred 
 Crowns ; for indeed when you come to crofs the Mountains, you can make 
 ufe of no other fort of carriage but them, in regard of the narrownefs and rug- 
 gednefs of the Palfes ■, which many times put the Horfes very much to it, as; 
 ftrong and as low as they are. . . : , 
 
 Five or fix Leagues beyond Gorrochepour you enter into the Territories of the 
 Raja of Nupal, which extend to the Frontiers of the Kingdom of Boman. This 
 Raja is a Tributary to the Great Mogul, and pays him every year an Elephant 
 for his Homage. He refides in the City of Nvpal, from whence he derives 
 his Title j but there is little either Trade or Money in hrs Country, which is 
 all Woods and Forrefts. 
 
 The Caravan being arriv'd at the foot of thefe Mountains, which are call'd 
 at this day by the name of Naugrocot, abundance of people come from all 
 parts of the Mountain, the greateft part whereof are women and maids, whp 
 agree with the Merchants to carry them, their goods and provifions crofs the 
 Mountains, which is eight days journey more. 
 
 The women carry upon each moulder a woollen Roll, to which is faften'd a 
 large Cufhion, that hangs down upon their backs, upon which the man fits. 
 There are three women to carry one man, relieving one another by turns. And 
 for their luggage and provifions, they lade them upon Goats, that will carry a 
 hundred and fifty pound weight apiece. Thofe that will ride, are in many places 
 forc'd to have their Horfes hoifted up with Cords. They never feed them but 
 morning and evening, mixing a pound of meal, half a pound of brown Sugar, 
 and half a pound of Butter together, with water fufficient. In the evening thqf 
 rauft be contented only with a few flat Peafon, bruis'd, and fteep'd half an hour 
 in water. The women that carry the men, get for their ten days travel two 
 Roupies apiece, and as much for every burthen which the Goats carry, and for 
 every Horfe which they lead, . After 
 
Travels in India. Part. II. 
 
 After you have pafs'd the Mountains, you may travel to Boutan upon Oxen, 
 Camels, Horles, or Palleki's, which you pleafe. The Country is good, abound- 
 ing in Rice, Corn, Pulfe, and ftore of wine. All the people both men and wo- 
 men are clad in the Summer with a large piece of Fuftian, or Hempen-Cloath 
 in the Winter with a thick Cloth, almoft like Felt. Both men and women wear 
 upon their heads a kind of Bonnet, much like our drinking Cans, which they 
 adorn with Boars teeth, and with round and iquare pieces of Tortois-Shells. 
 The richer fort intermix Coral and Amber Beads, of which their women make 
 them Neck- Laces. The men as well as the women wear Bracelets upon their 
 left hands only, from the wrift to the elbow. The women wear them ftrair, 
 the men loofe. About their necks they wear a filken twift, at the end where- 
 of hangs a Bead of yellow Amber or Coral, or a Boars Tooth, which dangles 
 upon their breafts. On their left fides, their Girdles are button'd with Beads 
 of the fame. Though they be Idolaters, yet they feed upon all fort of food, 
 except the flefh of Cows, which they adore as the common Nurfes of all men } 
 they are befides great lovers of ftrong water. They obferve alfo fome Cere- 
 monies of the Chinefes, burning Amber at the end of their Feafts, though they 
 do not worfhip fire like the Chinefes. For which reafon the Merchants of Bon- 
 tan will give at Patna for a Serre of large pieces of yellow Amber, as big as 
 a Nut, bright and clean, thirty-five and forty Roupies. The Serre of yellow 
 Amber,Musk,Coral, Ambergrife,Rhubarb,and other Drugs,containing nine Ounces 
 to the pound. Saltpeter, Sugar, Rice, Corn, and other Commodities, are alfo 
 fold by the Serre in Bengala ; but the Serre contains feventy-two of our Pounds, 
 at fixteen Ounces to the Pound j and forty Serres make a Me in, or 2824 Pounds 
 of Paris. 
 
 To return to yellow Amber, a piece of nine ounces is worth in Boutan from 
 ajo to 300 Roupies, according to its colour and beauty. Coral rough, or wrought 
 into Beads, yields profit enough 5 but they had rather have it rough, to fliape it 
 as they pleafe themfelves. 
 
 The Women and Maids are generally the Artifts among them, as to thofe toys. 
 They alfo make Beads of Cryltal and Agat. As for the Men, they make Bracelets 
 of Tortoife-fhell, and Sea-fhells, and polifh thofe little pieces of Shells which the 
 Northern people wear in their ears, and in their hair. In Patna and Daca there 
 are above two thoufand perfons that thus employ themfelves, furnifhing the King- 
 doms of Boutan, Afcm, Siam, and other Northern and Eaftern parts of the Mo- 
 guPs Dominions. 
 
 As for Wormfeed, the Herb grows in the Fields, and muft dye before the Seed 
 can be gather'd : but the mifchief is, that before the Seed is ripe, the wind fcat- 
 ters the greateft part, which makes it lb fcarce. When they gather the Seed, 
 they take two little Hampers, and as they go along the Fields, they move their 
 Hampers from the right to the left, and from the left to the right, as if they 
 were mowing the Herb, bowing it at the top, and fo all the Seed falls into the 
 Hampers. 
 
 Rhubarb is a Root which they cut in pieces, and ftringing them by ten or twelve 
 together, hang them up a drying. 
 
 Had the Natives of Boutan as much art in killing the Martin as the Mufcovite, 
 they might vend great ftore of thole rich Furs, confidering what a number of 
 thofe Beafts there are in that Countrey. No fooner does that creature peep out 
 of his hole, but the Muscovites, who lye upon the watch, have e'm prefenttyj 
 either in the nofe or in the eyes j for fhould they hit e'm in the body, the blood 
 would quite fpoyl the skin. 
 
 The King of Soman has conftantly feven or eight thoufand Men for his Guard. 
 Their Weapons are for the moft part Bows and Arrows. Some of them carry 
 Battel-axes, and Bucklers. 'Tis a long time ago fince they had the firft ufe of 
 Muskets and Cannons : their Gun-powder being long, but of an extraordinary 
 force. They alfur'd me that fome of their Cannons had Letters and Figures up- 
 on them, that were above five-hunder'd years old. They dare not ftir out of the 
 Kingdom without the Governor's particular leave ; nor dare they carry a Musket 
 along with them, unlefs their next Kindred will undertake for'them that they fhall 
 bring it back. Otherwife I had brought one along with me for by the cha- 
 racters 
 
 184. 
 
Book II. Travels in India. 
 
 ra&ers upon the Barrel, it appear'd to have been made above 180 years. It was 
 very thick, the mouth of the bore being like a Tulip, polilh'd within as brieht as 
 a Looking-glafs. Two thirds of the Barrel were garnifh'd with embofs'd Wires, 
 with certain Flowers of Gold and Silver inlaid between j and it carri'd a Bullet 
 that weigh'd an ounce. But I could not prevail with the Merchant to fell it me, 
 nor to give me any of his powder. 
 
 There are always fifty Elephants kept about the King's Houfe, and twenty five 
 Camels, with each a Piece of Artillery mounted upon his back, that carries half 
 a pound Ball. Behind the Gun fits a Cannoneer that manages and levels the Guns 
 as he pleafes. 
 
 There is no King in the World more fear'd and more refpefted by his Subjects 
 then the King of Boutan j being in a manner ador'd by them. When he fits to do 
 Juftice, or give Audience, all that appear in his prefence hold their hands clofe to- 
 gether above their forheads : and at a diftance from the Throne proftrate them- 
 felves upon the ground, not daring to lift up their heads. In this humble pofture 
 they make their Petitions to the King ; and when they retire, they go backwards 
 till they are quite out of his fight. One thing they told me for truth, that when 
 the King has done the deeds of nature, they diligently preferve the ordure, dry 
 it and powder it, like fhee2 ing-powder : and then putting it into Boxes, they go 
 every Market-day, and prefent it to the chief Merchants, and rich Farmers, who 
 recompence them for their kindnefs : that thofe people alfo carry it home, as a 
 great rarity, and when they feaft their Friends, ftrew it upon their meat. Two 
 Boutan Merchants fhew'd me their Boxes, and the Powder that was in 
 them. 
 
 The Natives of Boutan are ftrong and well proportioh'd > but their nofes and 
 faces are Ibmewhat flat. Their women are faid to be bigger and more vigo- 
 rous than the men ; but that they are much more troubled with fwellings in 
 the throat then the men, few efcaping that difeafe. They know not what war 
 is, having no enemy to fear but the Mogul. But from him they are fenc'd 
 with high, fteep, craggy, and fiiowey Mountains. Northward there are nothing 
 but vaft Forrefts and Snow. Eaft and Weft nothing but bitter water. And as 
 for the Raja's near them, they are Princes of little force. 
 
 There is certainly fome Silver Mine in the Kingdom of Boutan, for the King 
 coins much Silver, in pieces that are of the value of a Roupy. The pieces 
 are already defcrib'd. However the Boutan Merchants could not tell me where 
 the Mine fcty. And as for their Gold, that little they have is brought them 
 from the Eaft, by the Merchants of thofe Couhtries. 
 
 In the year i6j9, the Duke of Mufcovfs EmbafTadors pafsM through this 
 Country to the King of China. They were three of the greateft Noblemen in 
 Mufcovy, and were at firft very well receiv'd ; but when they were brought 
 to kifs the Kings hands, the cuftom being to, proftrate themfelves three times to 
 the ground, they refus'd to do it, faying that they would complement the King 
 after their manner, and as they approach'd their own Emperor, who was as great 
 and as potent as the Emperor of China. Thereupon, and for that they con- 
 tinu'd in their refolution, they were difmifs'd with their prefents, not being ad- 
 mitted to lee the King. But had thofe EmbafTadors conform'd to the cuftom of 
 China, without doubt we might have had a beaten rode through Mufcovy and 
 the North part of Great Tartary, and much more commerce and knowledge 
 of the Country than now we have. 
 
 This mentioning the Muscovites , puts me in mind of a ftory that ieveral 
 Mufcovy Merchants averr'd to be true, upon the rode between Tatiris and// 1 
 pahan, where I overtook them, of, a woman of fourfcore and two years of 
 age, who at thofe years was brought to bed in one of the Cities of Mufcovy, 
 of a Male <£hild, which was carry'd to the Duke, and by him brought up at 
 the Court. 
 
 CHAP 
 
Travels in India. 
 
 Part II 
 
 CHAP. XVI. 
 
 Of the Kingdom of Tipra. 
 
 MOft people have been of opinion till now, that the Kingdom of Pegu lies 
 upon the Frontiers of China $ and I thought fo my felf, till the Merchants 
 of Tipra undeceiv'd me. I met with three, one at Daca, and two others at 
 Patna. They were men of very few words ; whether it were their oWn 
 particular dilpofition, or the general habit of the Country. They caft: 
 up their accounts with fmall Stones likes Agats, as big as a mans nail , upon 
 every one of which was a Cypher. They had every one their weigh ti, like 
 a Stelleer j though the Beam were not of Iron, but of a certain Wood as hard 
 as Brazile 5 nor was the Ring that holds the weight, and is put thorough the 
 Beam to mark the weight, of Iron, but a ftrong Silk Rope. And thus they 
 weigh'd from a Dram to ten of our Pounds. If all the Natives of the King- 
 dom of Tipra were like the two Merchants which I met at Patna, I dare af- 
 firm them to be notable topers ; for they never refus'd whatever ftrong Li- 
 quor I gave them, and never left till all was out ; and when I told them by 
 my Interpreter that all my Wine was gone, they clapt their hands upon their 
 ftomachs and figh'd. Thefe Merchants travell'd all three through the King- 
 dom of Arak^n, which lies to the South and Weft of Tipra, having fome part 
 of Pegu upon the Winter Weft. They told me alfo, that it was about fifteen 
 days journey to crofs through their Country ; from whence there is no cer- 
 tain conjecture of the extent to be made, by reafon of the inequality of the 
 ftages. They ride upon Oxen and Horfes, which are low, but very hardy. As 
 for the King and the Nobility, they ride in their Pallekies, or upon their Ele- 
 phants of War. They are no lefs fubject to Wens under their throats, than 
 thofe of Boutan ; infomuch that the women have thofe Wens hanging down 
 to their Nipples $ which proceeds from the badnefs of the waters. 
 
 There is nothing in Tipra which is fit for ftrangers. There is a Mine of 
 Gold, but the Gold is very courfe. And there is a fort of very courfe 
 Silk, which is all the Revenue the King has. He exacts no Subfidies from his 
 Subjects} but only that they, who are not of the prime Nobility, mould 
 work fix days in a year in his Mine, or in his Silk-works. He fends his 
 Gold and his Silk into China, for which they bring him back Silver, which 
 he coins into pieces to the value of ten Sous. He alfo makes thin pieces of 
 Gold, like the AJpers of Turky ; of which he has two forts, four of the one fart 
 making a Crown, and twelve of the other. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Book III. Travels in India. 187 
 
 1 
 
 CHAP. XVII. 
 
 Of the Kingdom of Afem. 
 
 T was never known what the Kingdom of Afem was, till Mirgimola. had 
 fetPd Anreng-z.eb in the Empire. For he confidering that he fhould be no 
 longer valu'd at Court, after the war was at an end, being then General of An- 
 rcHg-z.ePs Army, and powerful in the Kingdom, where he had great ftore of 
 Creatures, to preferve the Authority he had, refolv'd to undertake the Con- 
 queft of the Kingdom of Afem ; where he knew he fhould find little or no're- 
 fiitance, that Kingdom having been at peace above yoo years before. Tis 
 thought thefe were the people that formerly invented Guns and Powder j which 
 fpead it felf from Afem to Pegu, and from Peptt to Cbinaftom whence the invention 
 has been attributed to the Chinefes. However certain it is, that Mirgimola 
 brought from thence feveral pieces of Canon, which were all Iron Guns, and 
 ftore of excellent Powder, both made in that Countrey. The Powder is round 
 and (moll, like ours, and very ftrong. 
 
 MtrgwoU embark'd his Army in one of the mouths of Ganges, and failing 
 up one of the Rivers that comes from the Lake Chiamay, to the twenty- ninth 
 or thirtieth Degree, he landed his Army, and came into a Country abounding 
 in all humane nectiTaries, ftill finding the lefs refiftance becaufe the people were 
 furpriz'd. Being a Mahumctan, he fpar'd not the very Pagods, but burn'd and 
 fack'd all where-ever he came to the thirty-fifth Degree. There he. under- 
 ftood that the King of Afem was in the field with a more powerful Army 
 than he expe&ed, and that he had feveral pieces of Canon, and great ftore of 
 fire-works withall. Thereupon Mirgimola thought it not convenient to march 
 any farther; though the chief reafon of his return was the drawing on of 
 Winter - which the Indians are fo fenfible of, that it is impoftible to make 
 them ftir beyond the thirti'th or thirty-fifth Degree, efpecially to hazard their 
 
 lives. ' . 
 
 Mirgimola therefore turns to the 'South-weft, and befieges a City call'd Az.oo, 
 which he took in a fmall time, and found good plunder therein. In this City of 
 Az.oo 3 are the Tombs of the Kings of Afem, and of all the Royal Family. For 
 though they are Idolaters, they never burn their dead bodies, but bury them. 
 They believe that the dead go into another world, where they that have liv'd 
 well in this, have plenty of all things ; but that they who have been ill livers, 
 fuffer the want of all things, being in a more efpecial manner afflicted with 
 hunger and drowth ; and that therefore it is good to bury fomething with them 
 to ferve them in their neceiTities. This was the reafon that Mirgimola found 
 fo much wealth in the City of Axjoo. For many ages together, feveral Kings 
 had built th§m Chappels in the great Pagod to be buried in, and in their life 
 times had ftor'd up in the Vaults of their particular Chappels, great fums of 
 Gold and Silver, and other moveables of value. Befides, that when they bury 
 the deceas'd King , they bury with him likewife whatever he efteem'd moft 
 pretious in his life-time, whether it were an Idol of Gold or Silver, or what- 
 ever elfe, that being needful in this, might be necefiary for him in the world 
 to come. But that which favours moft of Barbarifm is, that when he dies, 
 all his beft beloved Wives, and the principal Officers of his Houfe poyton them- 
 felves to be buri'd with him, and to wait upon him in the other world. Be- 
 fides this, they bury one Elephant, twelve Camels, fix Horfes, and a good nujn- 
 ber of Hound's, believing that all thofe Creatures rile again to ferve their 
 
 ^The Kingdom of Afem is one of the beft Countries of all Afta, for it pro- 
 duces all things necefiary for humane fubfiftence, without any need of foreign 
 fupply. There are in it Mines of Gold, Silver, Steel, Lead, Iron, and great 
 ftore of Silk, but courfe. There is a fort of Silk that is found under the 
 the Trees, which is fpun by a Creature like to our Silk-worms, but rounder, 
 
 * Bb z and" 
 
 1 
 
188 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Part II 
 
 and which lives all the year long under the trees. The Silks which are made 
 of this Silk glift'n very much, but they fret prefently. The Country produces 
 alfo great ftore of Gum-Lake ; of which there is two forts, one grows under 
 the trees of a red colour, wherewith they paint their Linnen and Stuffs ; and 
 when they have drawn out the red juice, the remaining fubftance ferves to var- 
 nifh Cabinets, and to make Wax ; being the beft Lake in Afia for thofe ufes. 
 As for their Gold they never fuffer it to be tranfported out of the Kingdom, 
 nor do they make any Money of it ; but they preferve it all in Ingots, which 
 pafs in trade among the Inhabitants ; but as for the Silver, the King coins 
 it into Money, as is already defcrib'd. 
 
 Though the Country be very plentiful of all things, yet there is no flefti which 
 they efteem fo much as Dogs flefh ; which is the greateft delicacy at all Feafts \ 
 and is fold every month in every City of the Kingdom upon their Market-days. 
 There are alfo great ftore of Vines, and very good Grapes, but they nev ^ake 
 any Wine % only they dry the Grapes to make Aqua. Vu&. As for Salt they have 
 none but what is artificial, which they make two ways. Firft they rai(e great 
 heaps of that green Stuff that Iwims at the top of Handing waters, which the 
 Ducks and Frogs eat. This they dry and burn ; and the allies thereof being 
 boil'd in a Cloth in water, become very good Salt. The other way 'tnoft in ufe 
 is to take the leaves of Adams Fig-tree, which they 4*7 and burn; the aflies 
 whereof make a Salt fo tart, that it is impoliible to eat it until the tartnefs 
 be tak'n away ; which they do by putting the afnes in water, where they ftir 
 them ten or twelve hours together j then they ftrain the fubftance through a 
 Linnen Cloth and boil it ; as the water boils away, the bottom thick'ns j and 
 when the water is all boil'd away, they find at the bottom very good and white 
 Salt. 
 
 Of the aftics of thefe Fig-leaves they make a Lye, wherewith they wa(h their 
 Silk, which makes it as white as Snow ; but they have not enough to whiten 
 half the Silk that grows in the Country. 
 
 Kemeroof is the name of the City where the King of Afem keeps his Court ; 
 twenty-five or thirty days journey from that which was formerly the Capital 
 City, and bore the fame name. The King requires no Subfidies of his peo- 
 ple ; but all the Mines in his Kingdom are his own ; where for the eafe of his 
 Subjects, he has none but flaves that work ; fo that all the Natives of Afem 
 live at their eafe, and every one has his houfe by himfelf, and in the middle of 
 his ground a fountain encompafs'd with trees ; and moft commonly every one 
 an Elephant to carry their Wives ; for they have four Wives, and when they 
 marry, they fay to one, I take thee to ferve me in fuch a thing j to the other, 
 I appoint thee to do fuch bufinefs $ fo that every one of the Wives knows what 
 (he has to do in the Houfe. The men and women are generally well complexi- 
 on'd j only thofe that live more Southerly are more fwarthy, and not fo fub- 
 ject to Wens in their throats 5 neither are they fo well featur'd, befides that the 
 women are fomewhat flat Nos'd. In the Southern parts the people go ftark 
 naked, only covering their private parts, with a Bonnet like a blew Cap upon 
 their heads, hung about with Swines teeth. They pierce holes in their ears, that 
 you may thruft your thumb in, whete they hang pieces of Gold and Silver. 
 Bracelets alfo of Tortoife-fhells, and Sea-Ihells as long as an egg, which they 
 faw into Circles, are in great efteem among the meaner fort ; as Bracelets of 
 Coral and yellow Amber among thofe that are rich. When they bury a man, 
 all his Friends and Relations muft come to the t burial $ and when they lay the 
 body in the ground, they all take off their Bracelets from their Armsand Legs, 
 and bury them with the Corps. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Book HI. 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 chap. xvm. 
 
 Of the Kingdom of Siam. 
 
 THE greateft part of the Kingdom of Siam lies between the Golf of Siam 
 and the Golf of Bengal*-, bordering upon Pegu toward the North, and the 
 Peninfula of Malacca toward the South. The fhorteft and neareft way for the 
 Europeans to go to this Kingdom, is to go to Jfpaban, from IJpahan to Ormns, 
 from Ormus to Surat 3 from Smat to Golconda, from Golconda to Majlipatan, there 
 to embark for Denouferin, which is one of the Ports belonging to the King- 
 dom of Siam. From Denouferin to the Capital City, which is alfo call'd Siam, 
 is thirty-five days journey, part by Water, part by Land, by Waggon, or upon 
 Elephants. The way, whether by Land or Water, is very troublelome ; for by 
 Land you mult be always upon your guard, for fear of Tigers and Lions ; by 
 Water, by reafon of the many falls of the River, they are forc'd to hoife up 
 their Boats with Engines. 
 
 All the Countrey of Siam is very plentiful in Rice and Fruits; the chiefeft: 
 whereof are Mangos , Durions, and Mangnftans, The Forefts are full of Harts, 
 Elephants, Tigers, Rhinocero's, and Apes ; where there grow alfo large Bambou's 
 in great abundance. Under the knots of thefe Bambou's are Emets nefts as big 
 as a mans head, where every Emet has his apartiment by himfelf ; but there is 
 but one hole to enter into the neft. They make their nefts in thefe Canes to 
 preferve themfelves (from the rains which continue four or five months together. 
 
 In the night time the Serpents arc very bufie. There are fome two foot 
 long, with two heads ; but one of them has no motion. 
 
 There is alfo another creature in Siam, like our Salamander, with a forked 
 tail, and very venomous. 
 
 The Rivers in this Kingdom are very large ; and that which runs by Siam is 
 equally as large as the reft. The water is very wholefome ; but it is very full 
 of Crocodiles of a monftrous bignefs, that devour men if they be not very care- 
 ful of themfelves. Thefe Rivers overflow their banks while the Sun is in the 
 Southern Tropick ; which makes the fields to be very fertile as far as they flow ; 
 and it is oblerv'd, that the Rice grows higher or lower, as the floods do more 
 or lefs increafe. 
 
 Siam, the Capital City of the Kingdom, where the King keeps his Court, is 
 wall'd about being about three of our Leagues in circuit; it is fituated in an 
 Ifland, the River running quite round it, and might be eafily brought into eve- 
 ry ftreet in the Town, if the King would but lay out as much Money upon 
 that defign, as he fpends in Temples and Idols. 
 
 The Siamcrs have thirty-three Letters in their Alphabet. But they write 
 from the left to the right, as we do, contrary to the cuftom of fapon, China, 
 Cochinchina, and Tmiqnin, who write from the right to the left. 
 
 All the Natives of this Kingdom are flaves, either to the King or the great 
 Lords. The women as well as the men cut their hair ; neither are they very 
 rich in their habits. Among their complements, the chiefeft is, never to go 
 beiore a perfon that they refped, unlefs they firft ask leave, which they do by 
 holding up both their hands. Thofe that are rich have feveral Wives. 
 
 The Money of the Country is already defcrib'd. 
 
 The King of Siam is one of the richeft Monarchs in the Eaft, and ftiles him- 
 felf King of Heaven and Earth ; though he be Tributary to the Kings of China. 
 He feldom (hews himfelf to his Subjefts ; and never gives Audience, but to 
 the principal Favourites of his Court. He trufts to his Minifters of State, 
 for the management of his affairs, who fometimes make very bad ufe of their 
 authority. He never (hews himfelf in publick above twice a year ; but then 
 it is with an extraordinary magnificence. The firft is, when he goes to a cer- 
 tain Pagod within the City, which is guilded round both within and without. 
 There are three Idols between fix and feven foot high, which are all of mafTie 
 
 Gold} 
 
Travels in India. Part. II. 
 
 Gold ; which he believes he renders propitious to him, by the great ftore of 
 Alms that he diftributes among the poor, and the prefents which he makes to 
 the Priefts. Then he goes attended by all his Court, and puts to open view 
 the richeft Ornaments he has. One. part of his magnificence confiits in his 
 train of two hundred Elephants ; among which there is one that is white, 
 which the King fo highly efteems , that he ftiles himfelf King of the White 
 Elephant. 
 
 The fecond time the King appears in publick, is when he goes to another 
 Pagod five or fix Leagues above the Town, up the River. But no perfon 
 muft enter into this Pagod, unlefs it be the King and his Prieits. As for 
 the people, fo foon as they fee the Door op'n, they muft prefently fall upon 
 their faces to the Earth. Then the King appears upon the River with two 
 hundred Gallies of a prodigious length ; four hundred Rowers belonging to 
 every one of the Gallies ; moft of them being guilded and carv'd very richly. 
 Now in regard this fecond appearance of the King is in the month of No- 
 vember, when the waters begin to abate, the Priefts make the people believe 
 that none but the King can ftop the courfe of the waters, by his Prayers 
 and by his Offerings to this Pagod. And they are fo vain as to think that 
 the King cuts the waters with his Sabra, or Skain $ thereby commanding it to 
 retire back into the Sea. 
 
 The King alfo goes, but incognito, to a Pagod in an Ifland where the Hoi" 
 landers have a Factory. There is at the entry thereof an Idol fitting crofs- 
 leg'd, with one hand upon his knee, and the other arm akimbo. It is above 
 iixty foot high ; and round about this Idol are about three hundred others, 
 of feveral forts and fizes. All thefe Idols are guilt. And indeed there are a 
 prodigious number of Pagods in this Countrey ; for every rich Siamer caufes 
 one to be built in memory of himfelf. Thofe Pagods have Steeples and Bells, 
 and the Walls within are painted and guilded ; but the Windows are fo nar- 
 row that they give but a very dim light. The two Pagods to which the 
 King goes publickly, are adorn'd with feveral tall Pyramids, well guilded. 
 And to that in the Hollanders Ifland there belongs a Cloyfter, which is a 
 very neat Structure. In the middle of the Pagod is a fair Chappel, all guild- 
 ed within fide 3 where they find a Lamb, and three Wax Candles continually 
 turning before the Altar, which is all over cover'd with Idols, fome of mafTie 
 Gold , others of Copper guilt. In the Pagod in the midft of the Town, 
 and one in of thofe to which the King goes once a year, there are above four 
 thoufand Idols ; and for that which is fix Leagues from Siam, it is furround- 
 ed with Pyramids, whole beauty makes the induftry of that Nation to be 
 admir'd. 
 
 When the King appears, all the Doors and Windows of the Houfes muft 1 
 be ftiut and all the people proftrate themfelves upon the ground, not da- 
 ring to lift up their eyes. And becaufe no perfon is to be in a higher place 
 than the King, they that are within doors, are bound to keep their loweft 
 Rooms. When he cuts his hair, one of his Wives performs that office, for 
 lie will not fuffer a Barber to come near him. 
 
 This Prince has a paffionate kindnefs for his Elephants ; which he looks upon 
 as his Favourites, and the Ornaments of his Kingdom. If there be any of 
 them that fall fick , the Lords of the Court are mighty careful to pleafe 
 their Soveraign 5 and if they happ'n to dye, they are buried with the fame 
 Funeral Pomp as the Nobles of the Kingdom; which are thus performed: 
 They let up a kind of Max/oleum, or Tomb of Reeds, cover'd with Paper 5 
 in the midft whereof they lay as much fweet wood as the body weighs, and 
 after the Priefts have mumbl'd certain Orifons, they fet it a-fire, and burn it to 
 allies ; which the rich preferve in Gold or Silver Urns, but the poor fcatter 
 in the wind. As for offenders, they never burn, but bury them. 
 
 Tis thought that in this Kingdom there are above two hundred Priefts, 
 which they call Bonz.es, which are highly reverene'd as well at Court as among 
 the people. The King himfelf has fuch a value for fome of them, as to hum- 
 ble himfelf before them. This extraordinary refpeft makes them fo proud, 
 that (brae of them have afpir'd to the Throne. But when the King difcovers 
 
 any 
 
BooklTL Travels in India. 191 
 
 any fuch dcfign, he puts them to death. And one of them had his head lately 
 ftruck off for his Ambition. 
 
 Thefe Bonx.es wear yellow, with a little red Cloth about their Wafts , like 
 a Girdle. Outwardly they are very modeft, and are never feen to be angry. 
 About four in the morning, upon the tolling of their Bells, they rife to their 
 prayers, which they repeat again toward evening. There are fome days in 
 the year when they retire from all converfe with men. Some of them live 
 by Alms ; others have Houfes with good Revenues. While they wear the Ha- 
 bit of Bonz.es, they muft not marry ; for if they do, they muft lay their Ha- 
 bit afide. They are generally very ignorant, not knowing what they believe. 
 Yet they hold the tranfmigration of Souls into feveralBodies.They are forbidd to kill 
 any Creature j yet they will make no fcruple to eat what others kill, or that 
 which dies of it felf. They fay that the God of the Chriftians and theirs were 
 Brothers j but that theirs was the eldeft. If you ask them where their God 
 is, they fay, he vanifh'd away, and they know not where he is. 
 
 'The chief ftrength of the Kingdom is their Infantry, which is indifferent good; 
 the Soldiers are us'd to hardfhip, going all quite naked, except their private 
 parts ; all the reft of their body, looking as if it had been cupt, is carv'd into 
 feveral fhapes of beafts and flowers. When they have cut their skins, and 
 ftanch'd the blood, they rub the cut-work with fuch colours as they think 
 moft proper. So that afar off you would think they were clad in fome kind 
 of flower'd Satin or other ; for the colours never rub out. Their weapons 
 are Bows and Arrows, Pike and Musket, and an Az,agaya , or Staff between 
 five and fix foot long with a long Iron Spike at the end , which they very 
 dextroufly dart at the Enemy. 
 
 In the year 1665-, there was at Siamz Neapolitan fefuite , who was calPd 
 Father Thomas ; he caus'd the Town and the Kings Palace to be fortifi'd with 
 very good Bulwarks, according to Art ; for which reafon the King gave him 
 leave to live in the City, where he has a Houfe and a little Church, 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 
 Of the Kingdom of MacafTar ; and the Embajfadors which the 
 Hollanders fent into China. 
 
 THE Kingdom of Macajfar , otherwife call'd the IJle of Celebes, begins 
 at the fifteenth Degree of Southern Latitude. The heats are exceffive 
 all the day ; but the nights are temperate enough. And for the Soil, it is 
 very fertile ; but the people have not the art of building. The Capital City 
 bears the name of the Kingdom, and is fituated upon the Sea. The Port is free ; 
 for the Veffels that bring great quantities of goods from the adjacent Iflands, 
 pay no Cuftoms. The Iflanders have a cuftom to poyfon their Arrows; and 
 the moft dangerous poyfon which they ufe, is the juice of certain Trees in the 
 Illand of Borneo j which they will temper fo as to work fwift or flow, as they 
 pleafe. They hold that the King has only the fecret Receit to take away the 
 force of it ; who boafts that he has the moft effectual poyfon in the world, 
 which there is no remedy can prevent. 
 
 One day an Englijh man in heat of blood had kill'cl one of the Kings of 
 Macajfar s Subjects; and though the King had pardon'd him, yet both EttgUJh^ 
 Hollanders , and Portugal; fearing if the Englijh man fhould go unpunifh'd, left 
 the Iflanders fhould revenge themfelves upon fome of them, befoughc the King 
 to put him to death ; which with much ado being contented to, the King un- 
 willing to put him to a lingring death,and defirous to /hew the effect of his poyfon, 
 refblv'd to fhoot the Criminal himfelf ; whereupon he took a long Trunk, and 
 (hot him exactly into the great Toe of the right foot, the place particularly 
 aim'd at. Two Chirurgeons, one an Englijh man, and the other a Hollander, 
 
 pro- 
 
Travels in India. Part. II. 
 
 provided on purpofe, immediarely cut off the member ; but for all that, the 
 poyfon had difpers'd it felf fo fpeedily, that the EngUJh man dy'd at the fame 
 time. All the Kings and Princes of the Eaft are very diligent in their enquiry 
 after ftrong poyfons. And I remember that the chief of the Dutch Factory and 
 I try'd feveral poyfon'd Arrows, with which the King of Achen had prefented 
 him, by {hooting at Squirrels, who fell down dead, as foon as ever they were 
 touch'd. 
 
 The King of Macaffar is a Mahometan, and will not fuffer his Subjefts to 
 embrace Chriftianity. Yet in the year i65-6,the Chriftians found a way to get leave 
 to build a fair Church in Macaffar. But the next year the King caus'd it to be 
 pull'd down, as alio that of the Dominican Friars, which the Portugals made 
 ufe of. The Parifh Church, which was under the Government of the fecular 
 Priefts, ftood ftill, till the Hollanders attack'd Macaffar, and compelPd him to 
 turn all the Portugals out of his Dominions. The ill conduct of that Prince 
 was in part the occafion of that war ; to which the Hollanders were mov'd, 
 to revenge themfelves upon the Portugal fefuites, who had crofs'd their Em- 
 baffy to China. Befides, that they offer'd great affronts to the Hollanders at 
 Macaffar, efpecially when they trod under foot the Hat of one of the Dutch 
 Envoys, who was lent to treat with the King in behalf of the Company. There- 
 upon the Hollanders refolv'd to unite their forces with the Bouquifes, that were 
 in rebellion againft their Soveraign, and to revenge themfelves at any rate. 
 
 Now as to the bufinefs of China, it happen'd thus : Toward the end of the 
 year 165-8, the General of Batavia and his Council, fent one of the chief of 
 the Holland Company with Prefents to the King of China ; who arriving at 
 Court, labour'd to gain the friendfhip of the Mandarins, who are the Nobility 
 of the Kingdom. But the fefnites, who by reafon of their long abode in the 
 Country, underftood the language, and were acquainted with the Lords of the 
 the Court, left the Holland Company mould get footing to the prejudice of 
 the Portugals, reprefented feveral things to the Kings Council to the prejudice 
 of the Hollanders ; more efpecially charging them with breach of Faith in all 
 the places where they came. Upon this the Holland Agent was difmifs'd, and 
 departed out of China without doing any feats. Afterwards coming to under- 
 ftand what a trick the Portugal fefuites had put upon him, he made report 
 thereof to the General and his Council at Batavia 5 which fo incens'd them, 
 that they refolv'd to be reveng'd. For by the Deputies accounts, the Em- 
 baffy had cofr them above fifty thoufand Crowns for which they confulted 
 how to make the Portugals pay double. Underftanding therefore the trade 
 which the fefuits drove in the Ifland of Macao, and to the Kingdom of Ma- 
 eaffar, whither upon their own account they fent feven Veffels, laden with all forts 
 of Commodities, as well of India as China ; they took their opportunity, 
 and the feventh of *{une 1660, appear'd with a Fleet of thirty Sail before the 
 Port of Macaffar. The King thinking himfelf oblig'd to make defence againft 
 fo potent an Enemy, endeavour'd to fuftain the brunt of the Hollander with 
 the Portugal Ships in the Road 5 but the Hollander dividing their Fleet, part 
 of them fought the Portugal, the other half batter'd the Royal Fortrefs fo 
 furioufly, that they carry 'd it in a fhort time. Which fo terrifi'd the King, 
 that he commanded the Portugals not to fire any more for fear of farther pro- 
 voking his Enemies. The Prince Patinfaloa was flain in the fight, which was 
 a great lofs to the King of Macaffar, who was become formidable to his neigh- 
 bours by the good Condud of that Minifter. As for the Hollanders, they took, 
 burnt, and funk all the Portugal Veffels, and fufficiently re-imburs'd themfelves 
 for their China Expences. 
 
 The thirteenth of fune the King of Macaffar , whofe name was Sumbaco, 
 hung out a white Flag from another Tower, whence he beheld the fight en- 
 viron'd by his Wives. During the truce, he fent one of the Grandees of his 
 Court to the Dutch Admiral, to defire peace, which was granted, upon con- 
 dition he mould fend an Embaffador to Batavia, expel the Portugals out of the 
 Ifland, and not permit his Subjefts to have any more to do with them. 
 
 Thereupon the King of Macaffar fent eleven of the greateft Lords of his 
 Court, with a train of feven hundred men 5 the Chief of the Embaffy being 
 
 the 
 
 192 
 
Bodk III. Travels in India i 93 
 
 the Prince of Patinfaloa. The firft thing they did, was to pay two hundred Loaves 
 of Gold to redeem the Royal Fortrefs again ; and then fubmitting to the Con- 
 ditions which the Dutch Admiral had propos'd, the General of Batavia fign'd 
 the Articles, which were punctually obferv'd. For the Portugals immediately 
 quitted the Country, fome departing for Siam and Camboya, others for Macoa 
 and Goa. Macao, formerly one of the moft famous and richeft Cities of the 
 Orient was the principal motive that enclin'd the Hollanders to fend an Em- 
 bafladour into China $ for being the beft ftation which the Portugals had in all 
 thofe parts, the Dutch had a defign to win it wholly. Now, this City, lying 
 in twenty-two Degrees of Northern Latitude, in a fmall Ifland next to the 
 Province of Kanton, which is a part of China, has very much loft its former 
 lufter. 
 
 But this was not all which the fefuits and the Portugal Merchants fuffer'd. 
 The Chief of the Dutch Factory at Mingrela, which is but eight Leagues from 
 this City underftanding the bad fuccefs of the Dutch in China, had a contri- 
 vance by' himfelf to be reveng'd. He knew that the fefnites of Goa and other 
 places, drove a great trade in rough Diamonds, which they fent into Europe, 
 or elfe' carry'd along with them when they return'd j and that for the more 
 private carrying on of their trade, they were wont to fend one or two of 
 their Order, that knew the language, in the habit of a Faquir, which confifts 
 of a Tygers Skin to cover their back-parts, and a Goats Skin to cover the 
 breaft reaching down to the knees. Thereupon the Chief of the Factory of 
 Miwrela taking his opportunity, and having notice that two of the fuppos'd 
 Faquirs were gone to the Mines,- to lay out 400000 Pardo's in Diamonds, gave 
 order to two men, which he had feed for the purpofe, that as foon as the 
 Fathers had made their purchafe, he fhould give notice to the Officer of the 
 Cuftom-Houfe at Bicholi. 
 
 Bicholi is a great Town upon the Frontiers of thofe Lands that part the 
 Kingdom of Vigour from the Territories of the Portugals ; there being no 
 other Way to pafs the River, which encompaffes the Eland where the City 
 
 of Goa is built. , . 
 
 The Fathers believing that the Cuftomer knew nothing of their purchafe, 
 went into the Boat to go over the River ; but as foon as they were in, they 
 were ftrictly fearch'd, and all their Diamonds confifcated. 
 
 To return to the King of Macaffar 5 you muft know, that the fefuits once 
 endeavour'd to convert him $ and perhaps they might have brought it to pafs, 
 had they not neglected one propofal which he made them. For at the fame time 
 that the fefitit s labour'd to bring him to Chriftianity, the Mahumetans us'd all their 
 endeavours to oblige him to ftick to their Law. The King willing to leave his 
 Idolatry yet not knowing which part to take, commanded the Mahumetans to 
 fend for two or three of their moft able MoulUs, or Doctors from Mecca $ and 
 the fefmts he order'd to fend him as many of the moft learned among them, 
 that he might be inftructed in both Religions j which they both promis'd to 
 do But the Mahometans were more diligent then the Chriftians, for in eight 
 months they fetch'd from Mecca two learned Moulla's ; whereupon the King 
 feeing that the fefuits fent no body to him, embrae'd the Mahumetan Law. 
 True it is, that three years after there came two Portugal fefuits, but then it 
 
 ^Th^Kin^of Macaffar being thus become a Mahumetan, the Prince his Bro- 
 ther was fo mad at it, that when the Mofaute, which the King had caus'd to 
 be built was finifh'd, he got into it one night, and eaufing the throats of two 
 Pies to 'be cut, he all befmear'd the walls of the new Mofiuee, and the place 
 which was appointed for the Moulla to perform Divine Service with the Wood 5 ; 
 fo that the King was fore'd to pull down that, and build another. After which 
 the Prince with fome Idolatrous Lords ftole out of the Ifland, and never fuice 
 appear'd at Court/ 
 
 * Cc GH A ?l 
 
 1 
 
194 
 
 Travels in India. Part II. 
 
 CHAP. XX. 
 
 The Author purfues his Travels into the Eaft, and embarks at Min- 
 grela for Batavia. The danger he was in upn the Sea ; and his 
 arrival in the Jfland of Ceylan. 
 
 T Departed from Mingrela, a great Town in the Kingdom of Vifapour, eight 
 A Leagues from Goa, the fourteenth of April, 1648, and embark'd in a Dutch 
 Veflel bound for Batavia. The Ship had orders to touch at Bo^anoar, to take 
 in Rice. Whereupon I went afhore with the Captain, to obtain leave of the 
 King to buy Rice. We found him upon the fhore, where he had about a do- 
 zen Huts fet up, which were cover'd with Palm-leaves. In his own Hut there 
 was a piece of Per/tan Tapeftry fpread under him, and there we faw five or 
 fix women, feme fanning him with Peacocks Feathers, others giving him Betle t 
 others filling him his Pipe of Tobacco. The moft confiderable peribns of the 
 Country were in the other Huts 5 and we counted about two hundred men 
 that were upon the Guard, arm'd only with Bows and Arrows. They had alfb 
 two Elephants among 'em. 'Tis very probable, that his Palace was not far 
 off, and that be only came thither to take the frefli air. There we were pre- 
 fented with Tan or Palm wine ; but being new, and not boiPd, it caus'd the 
 head-ach in all that drank it, inlbmuch that we were two days before we could 
 recover it. I ask'd the realbn, how the Wine came to do us fo much prejudice % 
 to which they anfwer'd me, that it was the Planting of Pepper about the Palm- 
 trees, that gave loch a itrength to the Wine. 
 
 We were no fooner got aboard, but a mighty tempeft arofe, wherein the 
 Ship, men, and goods had all like to have been caft away, being near the fhore 5 
 but at length, the wind changing, we found our felves by break of day three 
 or four Leagues at Sea, having loft all our Anchors ; and at length came fafe 
 to Port in the Haven of Pome de Galle, the twelfth of May. 
 
 I found nothing remarkable in that City j there being nothing but the ruins 
 made by the underminings and Canon-mot, when the Hollanders befieg'd it, 
 and chas'd the Porwgals from thence. The Company allow'd ground to build 
 upon, to them that would inhabit there, and land to till i and had then rais'd 
 two Bulwarks which commanded the Port. If they have finifh'd the defign 
 which they undertook, the place cannot but be very confiderable. 
 
 The Hollanders, before they took all the places which - the Portugals had 
 in the Ifland of Ceylan, did believe that the trade of this Ifland would have 
 brought them in vaft fums, could they but be fole Mafters of it ; and perhaps 
 their conjectures might have been true, had they not broken their words with 
 the King of Candy, who is the King of the Country ; but breaking faith with 
 him, they loft themfelves in all other places thereabouts. 
 
 The Hollanders had made an agreement with the King of Candy, that he 
 fhould be always ready with twenty thoufand men, to keep the paflages that 
 hinder the Portugals from bringing any fuccours from Colombo, Ncgombe, fyla- 
 nar , or any other places which they pofTeffed upon the Coaft. In con- 
 fideration whereof the Hollanders, when they had taken Pome Galle, were" 
 to reftore it to the King of Candy; which they not performing, the King fent 
 to know why they did not give him poifeflion of the Town ; to which they 
 return'd anfwer, that they were ready to do it, provided he would defray the 
 expences of the war. But they knew, that if he had had three Kingdoms more, 
 fuch as his own,he could never have payd fo great a fum. I muft confefs indeed the 
 Country is very poor, for I do not believe that the King ever faw fifty thou- 
 fand Crowns together in his life j his trade being all in Cinnamon and Elephants. 
 As for his Cinnamon, he has no profit of it fince the Portugals coming into 
 the Eaft Indies. And for his Elephants, he makes hut little of them j for they 
 take not above five or fix in a year ; but they are more efteem'd than any 
 Other Country Elephants, as being the moft couragious in war. One thing I 
 
Book II. Travels in India. 195 
 
 will tell you hardly to be believ'd, but that which is a certain truth, which 
 is, that when any other King or Raja has one of thefe Elephants of Ceylan, 
 if they bring him among any OtheY breed in any. other place whatever, fo foon 
 as the other Elephants behold the Ceylan Elephants, by an inltinft of na- 
 ture, they do him reverence, laying their trunks upon the ground, and raifing 
 them up again. ^ 
 
 The King of Acbcn, with whom the Hollanders alfo broke their word, had 
 more opportunity to be reveng'd upon them then the King of Candy. For he 
 deni'd them the tranfportation of Pepper out ,of. his .Country, without which 
 their trade was worth little. His Pepper being that which is moft coveted by 
 the Eaft. So that they were forc'd to make a compofition with him. The King 
 of Achens EmbafTador coming to Batavia, was ftrangely furpriz'd to fee wo- 
 men fitting at the Table ; bat much more, when after a health drank to the 
 Queen of Achen, the General of Batavia commanded his Wife to go and kifs 
 the Embaffador. Nor was the King behind hand with the Dutch Emballador 
 another way 5 whom the King beholding in a Janguifhing diftemper, ask'd him 
 whether he had never any familiarity with any of the Natives. Yes, replied 
 the Embaffador ; however I left, her to marry in my own Country. Upon that 
 the King commanded three of his Phyficians to cure him in fifteen days, upon 
 the forfeiture of their lives. Thereupon they gave him a certain potion every 
 morning, and a little Pill at night ; and at the end of nine days he took a great 
 Vomit. Every body thought he would have dy'd with the working of it 1 but 
 at length it brought up a ftopple of courfe hair, as big as a nut; after which 
 he prefently recover'd. At his departure the King gave him a Flint about the 
 bignefs of a Goofe Egg, with veins of Gold in it, like the veins of a mans 
 hand, as the Gold grows in that Country. 
 
 ckap. xxr. 
 
 The Authors departure from Ceylan, and his arrival at Batavia, 
 
 TH E twenty-fifth of May we fet fail from Ponte Galle. The fecond of 
 fttne we pafs'd the Line. The fixth we faw the Ifland call'd Nazaco's, 
 The feventeenth we difcover'd the Coaft of Sumatra, the eighteenth the Ifland 
 of Ingamina, and the nineteenth the Ifland of Fortune. The twentieth we were 
 in ken of certain little Iflands, and the Coaft of fava-, among which Iflands 
 there are three call'd the Iflands of the Prince. The one and rwentieth we dif- 
 cover'd Bantam, and the two and twentieth we anchor'd in the Road of Ba- 
 tavia. 
 
 There are two Councils in Batavia \ the Council of the Fort, where the Ge- 
 neral prefides, and where all the affairs of the Company are manag'd. The other 
 which is held in a Houfe in the City, and relates to the Civil Government, and 
 decides the petty differences among the Citizens. 
 
 All the kindnefs I had ftiew'n me here, was to be profecuted by the City 
 Council, for being fufpecled to have bought a parcel of Diamonds for Moun- 
 fieur Confiant, my very good Friend, ancL Prefident of the Dutch Fadtory aj? 
 Comron ; but when they could make nothing of it, they ceas'd their fuit, a- 
 (ham'd of what they had done. 
 
 * Ccz 
 
 C! &J A P« 
 
Travels in India. 
 
 Part II 
 
 CHAP. XXII. 
 
 The Author goes to vifi the King of Bantam , and relates fever at 
 Adventures upon that occajion. 
 
 BEing fo ill treated in Batavia, I refolv'd to vifit the King of Bantam ; to 
 which purpofe I took my own Brother along with me, becaufe he (poke 
 the Language calPd Malaye ; which in the Eaft is as univerfal as Latin among 
 us. Being arriv'd at Bantam in a fmall Bark, which we hir'd for our felves ; 
 we went firft and vifited the Englijh Prefident, who kindly entertain'd and 
 lodg'd us. 
 
 The next day I fent my Brother to the Palace, to know when it would be 
 feafonable for me to come and kifs the Kings Hands. When the King few him 
 ( for he was well known to him ) he would not fuffer him to return., but fent 
 others to fetch me, and to tell me withall, that if I had any rare Jewels, I 
 fhould do him a kindnefs to bring them along with me. 
 
 When I faw my Brother return'd not with the perfons which the King fent, 
 I was almoft in the mind not to have gone j remembring how the King of A- 
 chen had ferv'd the Sieur Renaud. For the French having fet up an Eaft India 
 Company, fent away four VefTels, three great ones, and one of eight Guns, 
 for the fervice of the Company. Their Voyage was the lhorteft that ever was 
 heard of ; arriving at Bantam in left than four monrhs. The King alfo cour- 
 teoufly receiv'd them, and let them have as much Pepper as they defiVd, 
 and cheaper by twenty in the hundred then he fold it to the Hollanders. But 
 rhe Frencj not coming only for Pepper, fent away their fmall Ship with the 
 greateft part of their Money to Macajfar, to try the Market for Cloves, Nut- 
 megs, and Mace. 
 
 The French being fo foon difpatch'd at Bantam, had not patience to ftay 
 till the return of the fmall Veffel which they had fent to Alacaffar ; but to 
 pafs the time , muft needs run over to Batavia , being not above fourteen 
 Leagues otfj fo that you may be at Batavia from Bantam in a tide with a 
 good wind. When they came to an Anchor, the General of the French Fleet 
 lent to Complement the General of Batavia, who faiPd not to anfwer his ci- 
 vility, and invited the Admiral afhore. Moreover he fent to thofe that ftay'd 
 aboard, great ftore of excellent chear, and a good quantity of Spanijh and 
 Khemjh Wine, with particular order to them that carry 'd it, to make the Frerich 
 drunk. His order was fo well follow'd, that 'twas eafie to fet the Ships on 
 "fire, according to the private inftructions which they had. So foon as the flame 
 was difcover'd from the Generals window, which overlook*! all the Road, there 
 was a. wonderful pretended aftonifhment among the Dutch. But the French Ad- 
 miral too truly conjecturing the ground and Authors of the treachery, behold- 
 ing the company with an undaunted courage ; Come, come, cry'd he, lets drink 
 on } they that fet the Ships a- fire fhall pay for'em. However the French Ships 
 were all burnt, though the men were all fav'd in Boats which were forth- 
 with fent to their relief. After that, the General of Batavia made them great 
 offers, which they refus'd, and return'd to Batavia, in expectation of their fmall 
 Veffel. When it return'd, they could find out no better way then to fell Ship, 
 and goods, and all to the. Englijh, and to (hare the Money among themfelves, 
 every one according to their condition. 
 
 But the trick which they put upon the Englijh was far more bloody. The 
 Englijh were the firft that found out the danger of failing from Surat, Mafli- 
 fatan , or any other diftant parts , to fapon without touching by the way. 
 Whereupon they thought it convenient to build a Fort in the Ifland of For- 
 mofa, which not only fav'd the lofs of feveral VefTels, but alfo brought them 
 in great gain. The Hollanders mad that the Englijh were poffefs'd of fuch an 
 advantageous fcituation, being the only place in all the Ifland where VefTels 
 could ride in fafety i and finding they could not carry it by force, bethought 
 
 them- 
 
Book III 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 themfelves of a Stratagem ; to which purpofe they fent away two Ships, where- 
 in they ftor'd the beft of their Souldiers, who pretending they had been in a 
 ftorm in Sea, put into the Harbour of Formofa, with fome of their Mafts by 
 the board, their Sails fcatter'd, and their Seamen feemingly fick. The Englijh 
 eompaffionating their raiferies, which was only in outward appearance, invited 
 the chief of them to come afhore to refrefh themfelves j which they were 
 very ready to do, carrying as many men with them as poflibly they could 
 under pretence of ficknefs. While the chief of them were at Dinner with 
 the chief of the EngUfi, they all ply'd their Cups 5 and when the Dutch faw 
 the EngUfio had drunk hard enough, taking their opportunity, they pickt a quar- 
 rel with the Commander of the Forr, and drawing their Swords, which they 
 had hidden under their Coats for that purpofe, they eafily furpriz'd and cut 
 all the throats of the Soldiers in tbeGarrifon; and being thus Matters of the 
 Fort, they kept it from that time till they were routed out by the Chinefis. 
 
 Now for the trick that the King of Achen ferv'd the Sieur Renaud ; he ha- 
 ving got a good Eftate by Jewels, arriv'd at length at Achen, and as it is the 
 cuitom for the Merchants to fhew the King what Jewels they have, the King 
 had no fooner caft his eye upon four Rings which the Sieur Renaud fhewM 
 him, but he bid him fifteen thoufand Crowns for them 5 but Renaud would 
 not bate of eighteen thoufand. Now becaufe they could not agree, the Sieur 
 Renaud carry'd them away with him, which very much difpleas'd the King j 
 however he fent for him the next day. Whereupon Renaud returning to him, 
 the King paid him his eighteen thoufand Crowns ; but he was never feen after 
 that, and it is thought he was fecretly murther'd in the Palace. 
 
 This ftory came to my remembrance, when I found my Brother did not 
 come along with thofe that were lent to fetch me. However I refolv'd to go, 
 taking with me 12 or 13000 Roupies worth of Jewels j the greateft part be- 
 ing in Rofe Diamond Rings, fome confifting of feven, fbme of nine, and fome 
 of eleven Stones ; with fome fmall Bracelets of Diamonds and Rubies. I found 
 the King with three of his Captains and my Brother fitting together, after the 
 manner of the Eaft,with five great Plates of Rice before them of divers colours. For 
 their drink they had Spanljh Wine, ftrong Waters, and feveral forts of 'Sherbets. Af- 
 ter I had complemented the King, and prefented him with a Diamond Ring, 
 a blew Saphir Ring, and a little Bracelet of Diamonds, Rubies, and blew Sa- 
 phirs, he commanded me to fit down, and order'd me a glafs of ftrong Wa T 
 ter to whet my appetite. The glafs held a quarter of a pint, and therefore I 
 refusM it. which the King very much wonder'd at ; but being told by my Bro- 
 ther, that I never drank any ftrong Water, he order'd me prefently a glafs of 
 Sack. 
 
 After that he rofe up, and feated himfelf in a Chair, the Elbows whereof 
 were guilded. His feet and legs were bare, having a Perfian Carpet of Gold 
 and Silk to tread upon. He was clad with a piece of Calicut, part whereof 
 cover'd his body from his wafte to his knees, the reft being wound about his 
 back and fhoulders like a Scarf. Inftead of Shoes he had a pair of Sandals,, 
 that ftood by the Chair fide, the ftraps whereof were embroider'd with Gold 
 and fmall Pearl. About his head he had a thing like a Handkerchief, with three 
 Corners, bound about his head like a Fillet. His hair alfo, which was very 
 long, was twifted and ty'd together over his head. Two perfons ftood behind 
 him with great Fans of long Peacock Feathers , the handles whereof were 
 five or fix foot in length. Upon his right hand ftood an old black woman, holding 
 in her hand a little Mortar and a Peftle of Gold, to beat his Betle in ; where- 
 with he mix'd the Kernel of the Nut of Araque , and Seed Pearl 
 diffolv'd. When it was all beaten together, the old woman gave it the King 
 over his Shoulders, who opening his mouth, the old woman fed him as our 
 women feed their Children. For the King had chaw'd fo much Betle, and ta- 
 ken fo much Tobacco, that his teeth were all fall'n out of his head. 
 
 The King of Bantam's Palace was never built by any curious Architect. It is 
 a fquare place, encompafs'd with a great many Pillars, varniih'd over with fe-r 
 veral forts of colours, againft which the King leans when he fits down. At the 
 four Corners there are four great Pillars let in the Earth, at forty foot diftance^- 
 
 the' 
 
Travels in India. 
 
 Part. II. 
 
 the one from the other , lin'd with a Mat made of the Rhind of a certain Tree, 
 fo thin that it looks like a piece of Li-mien, which neither Fleas nor Punies will 
 come near. The Roof was cover'd with Coco-Branches. Not far off, under 
 another Roof fupported with four great Pillars, he had fixteen Elephants, the 
 nobleft of all thole that are in the Kings fervice : for he has a far greater num- 
 ber train'd up for war, that are not afraid of wild-fire. For his Guard he might 
 have about two thoufand men, that were drawn up in Companies under the 
 (hade of the next Trees. They are good Souldiers as well by Sea as by Land ; 
 great Mahometans, and ftand not at all in fear of death. His Haram, or the 
 Vomens Apartment, was certainly a* very fmall place. For when he had view'd 
 what I brought him, he fent for two old women, to whom he gave fbme of the 
 Jewels, to go and (hew them to his Wives. The two women return'd back through 
 a little pitiful door j the enclol'ure being nothing but a kind of Wall made up of 
 Earth and Cow-dung mix'd together. Whatever he fent to the Women, they 
 never return'd any thing again. Which made me believe they would bear a 
 good price j and indeed whatever I fold to him, I fold to good profit, and had 
 my Money welj paid me. After this we took our leaves; but the King oblig'd 
 us to come next day in the evening, becaufe he had a defire to fhew us a 
 Tttrkt Dagger, the Haft whereof, being thin of Diamonds, he had a mind to 
 enrich with more Stones. Coming to the Englijh Houfe with our Money, they 
 wonder'd that the King had laid out twenty thoufand Roupies, telling me, they 
 believ'd it was the beft part of his treafure. 
 
 The next day my Brother and I went to wait upon him at the appointed 
 hour, and we found him fitting in the fame place where he fate before. There 
 was a MoulU then read to him, who feem'd to interpret to him fbmething of 
 the Alcoran in the Arabick_ Language. The Leclure being ended, they both 
 role and went to prayers ; which being concluded, the King fent for the Dag- 
 ger and the Haft which was of Gold. The top of the Handle was already 
 fet with Diamonds, and upon the upper part of the crofs Bar was cut in Fa- 
 cets, which could not be left worth than fifteen or fixteen thoufand Crowns.' 
 The King told me, it was prefented to him by the Queen of Borneo, and that 
 it was cut at Goa ; but that he put a far higher value upon it than I efteem'd 
 it to be worth. The Dagger, as well as the Sheath was full of Beazils, or 
 Collets, in very good order ; but the King had neither Diamond, Ruby, nor 
 any other Stone to fet in the Collets ; and therefore defir'd me to help him 
 to fome that might come at an eafie rate. I told him it was impoffible to 
 find Stones that would fit the Beazils ; and therefore that it was better,^when he 
 had got Stones enough, to fix other Beazils according to the proportion of the 
 Stones. To which purpofc he was firft to range all his Stones in Wax ; which 
 I (hew'd him how to do at the fame time ; but that was above his skill. And 
 therefore do what I could to excufc my felf to the contrary, he would needs 
 oblige me to carry the Dagger to Batavia 5 whereupon I took my leave of 
 the King, and departed. 
 
 • 
 
 CHAP. 
 
1 
 
 1 " I- I l 
 
 Booklll Travels in India. tjjjt 
 
 chap, xxiii. 
 
 Authors return to Batavia. His re-vifiing the King of Ban- 
 tam. And a relation of fever al Extravagancies of certain Fa- 
 quirs in their return from Mecca. 
 
 A Bout elev'n a Clock at night we embark'd for Batavia j for the 
 night winds blowing from the Land, are the only winds to ferve our 
 turn 5 fo that we were at Batavia between ten and elev'n the next morning. 
 There I ftay'd twenty days for the King of Bantam's fake, to make him believe 
 I had fought for that which I knew was impoffible to to be found. I had nothing 
 to do all the while, for in Batavia there is no other recreation than gaming 
 and drinking, which was none of my bufinefs. At that time the Sieur Cant 
 dy'd, one of the Indian Counfellors, who was fumptuoufly buri'd for his good 
 fervices done to the Company j but the people complain'd heavily of the in- 
 juftiee which he had done as well to the Souldiers as Mariners. 
 
 Having ftay'd twenty days at Bantam, I refolv'd to go and return the King 
 of Bantam his Dagger again j for it was impoffible to meet with Stones to fit 
 his Beazils. However I took along with me fome other Stones which he 
 had not feen. Coming to Bantam, the King caus'd us to be lodg'd in one of 
 his own Houfes in the City, which was made of Bamboo's, Thither in lefs 
 then a quarter of an hour, the King fent us fome Pateches, or fweet Water- 
 Melons, red within like Scarlet. We had alfo Mango's, and a certain large 
 Fruit calPd Pompone, red alfo within, the meat of it being foft and fpungy, but 
 of an excellent tafte. Having ftay'd our ftomachs, we went to wait upon the 
 King whom we found in the fame place, with his old Mortar-bearer, who 
 every foot fed him with Betle with her fingers. There were fitting about the 
 Hall five or fix of his Captains, viewing a certain parcel of Fire-works, asGra- 
 nado's, Rochets, and other devices to run upon the water, which the Chi- 
 nefes had brought ; who are the moft exquifite at thofe fports of any people 
 in the world. When the King was at Jeifure, I return'd him his Dagger, tel- 
 ling him, that Batavia was no place to meet with Stones ; and that fuch as 
 were to be found, were valu'd at double the price they were worth $ and that 
 there was no. place where he could fit himfclf, but at Golconda, Goa, or the 
 Diamond Mines. Thereupon the old woman took the Dagger, and carry 'd it in- 
 to his Haram nor did the King fpeak a word more about it. After that I 
 fhew'd him what other Stones I had brought, a parcel whereof I fold him, 
 to good profit ; the King ordering us to come the next day for payment. 
 
 The next day about fix a Clock in the morning, my Brother and I, and a 
 Dutch Chirurgion, were going along a narrow way, between a River on the 
 one hand, and the Pales of a great Garden on the other. Behind the Pates a 
 Rafcally Bantamois had hid himfelf j orre of thofe that was newly come from 
 Mecca, and was upon the defign of Moqua ; that is, in their Language, when 
 the Rafcality of the Mahumetans return from Mecca, they prefently take their 
 Cric in their hands, which is a kind of Poniard, the Blade whereof is half 
 poyfon'd ; with which they run through the ftreets, and kill all thofe which 
 are not of the Mahumctan Law, till they be kill'd themfelves. Thefe Furies 
 think that in fo doing they do God and Mahomet good fervice, and (hall be 
 • fav'd thereby. If any of thefe madmen be kill'd, the Rabble of Mahumetans 
 buries them as Saints, and every one contributes to make them a fair Tomb.. 
 Sometimes you {hall have an idle Rogue, in the Habit of a Dervich, that will 
 build him a Hut near the Tomb, which he undertakes to look to, and ftrew 
 with Flowers. And as his Alms increafe, he adds fome other ornament to it. 
 For the fairer and better fet out the Tomb is, the more devoutly it is wor- 
 fliip'd, and the more Alms it brings in. I remember in the year 1642, that 
 at Sonali, which is the Port of Surat, it happen'd that a VefTel of the great 
 Moguls return'd from Mecca t with a great number of Faquirs or Dervichs. For 
 
 every 
 
200 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Part. H. 
 
 every year the King fends two Veflels to carry and bring back the 
 Pilgr ims, who have their paflage free. And when thefe Veflels are to go, the 
 Faquirs come from all parts of India to embark. Thefe Veflels are lad'n with 
 very good Commodities, which are fold at Mecca, and the profit is diftributed 
 among the poor Pilgrim's. But the principal is brought back for the next year, 
 amounting to fix hundred thoufand Roupies at leaft. Tis an ill Market when 
 they do not gain 30 or 40 per Cent, by their Commodities j nay there are fome 
 that produce Cent, per Cent, befides, that the principal perfons of the Moguls 
 Harant t and other particular perfons, fend very large gifts to Mecca. 
 
 One of thefe Faquirs returning from Mecca in the year 1642, and being 
 landed at Souali, had no fooner faid his prayers, but he took his Dagger, and 
 ran among feveral Dutch Mariners that were unlading goods upon the fhorej 
 and before they were aware this mad Faquir had wounded feventeen of them, 
 of which thirteen dy'd. The Canjare which he had in his hand, was a kind of 
 Dagger, the Blade whereof toward the Handle was three fingers broad ; and 
 becaufe it is a very dangerous weapon, I have here given you the figure of it, 
 
Book III 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 20 
 
 At length the Sentinel that flood at the entry of the Tent where the Gover- 
 nour and Merchants were, mot him through the body, fb that he fell down 
 dead. Immediately all the other Faquirs and Mahometans that were upon the 
 place took up the body and buried it : and at the end of fifteen days they put 
 him up a fair Monument. Every year the Enghfo and Hollanders pull it down $ 
 but when they are gone, the Faquirs let it up again, and plant Banners over 
 it; nay fome there are that perform their devotions to it. 
 
 But to return to the Bantam Faquir. That Villain lying, as I laid, behind the 
 Pales, as my Brother and I, and the Dutch Chirurgeon came toward him, all 
 three a-breaft, thruft his Pike between the Pales, thinking to have ftab'd it into 
 one of our breafls. The Dutch man being next the River, and fo mew hat be- 
 fore the reft, the head of his Pike ran into his Breeches ; whereupon we both 
 laid hold of the Staff. But my Brother being next the Pales, prelently leap'd 
 over , and ran the Faquir thorough. Whereupon feveral Chimfes, and other 
 Idolaters, came and gave my Brother thanks for killing him. After that 
 we waited upon the King, and told him what my Brother had done ; who 
 was fo far from being difpleas'd, that he gave my Brother a Girdle. For the 
 King and his Governours are glad when thole Rogues are (lain, knowing them 
 to be Defperado's, not fit to live. 
 
 The next day, coming to take my leave of the Englijh Prefident, he Ihevv'd 
 me two fixings of Diamonds, and two Services of Silver, which came from 
 England. He would have fold them all, but I only bought one of the firings of 
 Diamonds, the other being foul ; and for the Silver, I would have bought it, 
 had they coin'd Silver in Batavta, as they were wont to do. Formerly the Hol- 
 landers coin'd Reals, Half-Reals, and Quarter- Reals, bearing on the one fide 
 the ftamp of a Ship, on the other V, O, C, like a Character, as in the Figure, 
 Signifying in Dutch, V or Osi Indian Compagnie 3 for the Ealt Indian Company. 
 Which they did" for the fake of the Chinefes, who loving Silver better than 
 Gold, carri'd away all the Silver that was coin'd at Batavia, at good rates. 
 But length they left it off, finding fo few people that made ufe of Silver, 
 
 *Dd 
 
 CHAP, 
 
202 
 
 Travels in India. 
 
 Part. E 
 
 CHAP. XXIV. 
 Of the War of the Hollanders with the Emperor of Java. 
 
 HAving taken my leave of the EngUJh Prefident, I return'd to Bataviai 
 where having little to do, I refolv'd to give a vifit to the King of Japar, 
 otherwife call'd the Emperor of Java. This King was formerly King of all the 
 liland, till the King of Bantam, who was only Governour of a Province, rebell'd 
 againlt him ; the Hollanders being made by the divifions of thofe two Princes. 
 For when the King of Japar befieg'd Batavia, the King of Bantam reliev'd the 
 Hollanders ; and when they were attack'd by the King of Bantam, the King of 
 Japar came to their afMance. And when thofe two Kings were together by 
 the ears, the Hollanders always aided the weakeft. 
 
 The King of Japar keeps his Court in a City of the fame name, diirant from 
 Batavia fome thirty Leagues. You may coaft along the more to it by Sea $ 
 but the City ftands above eight Leagues up in the Land. From the City there 
 is a fine Walk to the Sea, where there is a handfome Port, and fairer Houfes 
 than any in the City. And the King would live there if he thought it fafe. 
 
 The day before I departed, I went to take my leave of one of the Indian 
 Counfellors, and telling him that I was going to wait upon the King of f.tpar, he 
 itood amaz'd, in regard the King and the Hollanders were mortal Enemies j of 
 which he gave me this account : The deceas'd King, Father to the King that 
 now reigns, fince the Hollanders built their Fort of Batavia would never have 
 any peace with them. And though that during the war the Hollanders took 
 ten of his Subjects, for one of theirs, and ofFer'd ten for one in exchange, yec 
 he would never exchange one upon any condition whatfoever, and charg'd his 
 Son upon his death-bed never to rele.ife one.^ This obitinacy very much trou- 
 bl'd the Dutch General, and all the reft in Batavia, and oblig'd them to con- 
 fult upon ways how to right themfelves Now it is the cuftom when a Ma- 
 hometan King dyes, that his Succeflbr fends certain great Lords of his Court 
 to Mecca with Prefents, as well to engage them to pray for the Soul of the 
 deceas'd ; as alfo to give thanks to God and Mahomet for the coming of a new 
 King to the Throne without any impediment; and to pray for the blelTing of 
 Victory over all his Enemies. But the new King and his Council were at a 
 lofs how to accomplish this Voyage ; for firft the King had none but. little 
 Vefiels, that were wont only to fail along by the more, by reafon of the in- 
 experience of his Seamen} and in the (econd place the Dutch were always ply- 
 ing to and fro about the mouths of his Havens, to furprize his Subjects if they 
 ftirr'd forth. For the fafety therefore of his Pilgrims, the King at laft con- 
 cludes upon making an agreement with the EngUJh. For which reafon he dis- 
 patches away an Envoy to Bantam, to the EngliJJi Prefident and his Council, who 
 promis'd to lend him the biggeft VefTel and the beft mounted which the Com- 
 pany had in the Indies. In lieu whereof the Englijk were to pay but halfCuftoms 
 for ever, for all Commodities exported or imported out of his Country. Which 
 Treaty being ratifi'd, the EngUJh furnifli'd him with three ftout Velfels, Mann'd 
 and Gunn'd beyond an ordinary rate. Thereupon nine of the principal Lords 
 of the Court, and moft of the Blood Royal, with a Train of a hundred peribns, 
 embark'd themfelves in the great Veflel. But all thefe preparations could not 
 be carri'd fo privately, but that the Dutch had intelligence of it by their Spies. 
 Thereupon the General of the Dutch makes ready three Ships, and lying juft 
 in the ftreight of Bantams mouth ; fo foon as the E.gUJlo came up, ( for they had 
 no other way ) let fly at them fo roundly, that the E/igU/h fearing left their 
 Vefiels would be funk, (truck Sail ; which the Java Lords feeing, call'd the Eng- 
 UJh Traytors, and drawing their poyfon'd Daggers, cry'd a Mocca upon the Eng- 
 Ufi, killing a great number of them before they had time to put themfelves 
 into a polture of defence. And perhaps there would not one of them have eicap'd, 
 had nor the Hollanders come aboard as they did. Some of the Java Lords,and about 
 
 twenty 
 
Book II. Travels ill India 
 
 twenty of their Attendants, would take no quarter ; fo that the Hollanders were 
 forc'd to fight for'r, and at laft they got the better, with the lofs of feven or 
 eight men. The EngUJh VefTel being carri'd into Batavia, the General very, ci- 
 villy fent both the Prifbners and the VefTel home again ; withal! giving notice 
 to the King, that he was ready to make' an exchange* of Prifbners with him. 
 But the King would not fo much as Hearken to any fuch propofition 5 returning 
 for anfwer, that though the Hollanders had three times as many of his Sub- 
 jects, he would not releafe fo much as one Hollander. So that the poor Dutch 
 were kept- flaves in fava, and the favanners dy'd miferable in Batavia. 
 
 As for the favanners, th^y are good Souldiers. And it is reported, that while 
 Batavia was befieg'd by the King of Bantam in the year 16^9, a Dutch Soul- 
 dier lying in Ambufcade in a Marfh, a fava,.ner, little dreaming that any body 
 had been there, came to the fame place to difcover the Enemy ; and was by 
 the Dutch man thruft with his Pike into his Body. Upon which the favantier find- 
 ing himfelf wounded, did not Itrive to pull the Pike out of the body, but thruft 
 himfelf farther upon it, to the end he might come at his Enemy, whom he 
 itab'ri to the heart, as foon as he got within his reach. 
 
 203 
 
 CHAP. XXV. 
 
 The AtJhor buries his Brother ; and is again quarrel '</ with-all by 
 by the General and his Council, I 
 
 THile I ftay'd at Batavia, my Brother dy'd ; and it was pretty to con- 
 ' fider what the Dutch made me pay for his Funeral. The firft expence 
 is for the Fees of thofe that beg leave for the Corps to be buri'd 5 
 of whom the more there are, the more honourable the Funeral is efteem'd. 
 I lent fix, and paid them to my wonder for that feventy-two Crowns. The fee 
 for the Pall is a right that belongs to the poor,for which I paid two Crowns. There 
 was a Veflel of Spanijh Wine drank out, that coft me two hundred Piafters. I 
 gave twenty-fix more for three Weftphalia Hams, and fome Neats-tongues, and 
 twenty-two for Bak'd Meats. To the Bearers I gave twenty Crowns, and fix- 
 teen for a place in the Church- yard , for they ask'd me a hundred to bury 
 him in the Church. And all thefe are Fee's demanded. So that my Brothers 
 Funeral coft me twelve hundred and twenty three Livres of French Mo- 
 ney. 
 
 Being thus put by the two Voyage.? which I intended to fapan and Sumatra^ 
 I was advis'd to lay out my Money in Requenings or Debentures of the Servants 
 of the Holland Company ; which they that have no mind to return into their 
 own Country, as being fetled in the Indies, will fell at an eafie rate ; infomuch, 
 that for fixty or feventy you may buy a hundred Piafters ; the Act and Ac- 
 quittance of the Seller being made and regifter'd by the Publick Notary.; There- 
 upon I bought of one of the publick Notaries, who had Bills in his hands, to 
 the value of about eleven thoufand Guelders, at fourfcore and two for the hun-. 
 dred. After that, I bought by means of the Advocate of the Treafury, fix 
 thoufand Guelders more, at feventy-nine for the hundred. But fome few days 
 after, meeting with the fame Advocate again, he pafs'd a Complement upon 
 me, and told me, he was very much ^roubPd for thofe that had bought De- 
 bentures, in regard that the General and the Council had commanded him to 
 recall all Debentures that had been fold ; for they had confider'd ,- how lad a 
 thing it would be, for the poor men to Tofe fo much of their Salaries. I an- 
 fwer'd him, that for my part I was Willing to return mine, provided I mighc 
 have my Money again. About fix or feven hours after, t was Kent for by the 
 General and his Council. When I came there, they ask'd me why I had not re- 
 turn'd the Debentures, which I had bought, to the Advocate, who had demandr- 
 ed them by their order. I anfwerd them, that they were at Bantam, whither 
 
 * Dd z I had 
 
204 
 
 "Travels in India. 
 
 Part H. 
 
 I had fent them in order to my paflage home ; in regard that the EngHJh Pre- 
 fident had otfer'd me a convenience to go along with him. The Council an- 
 fvver'd me, that the Dutch Ships were as good as the EngHJh, and very cour- 
 teoufly aflur'd me, they would give order for a Cabin to my felf in the Vice- 
 Admiral. But withall they told me, I muft deliver up my Debentures before I 
 ftirr'd j afiiiring me, that they would give me a Bill to be re-imburs'd my Mo- 
 ney by the Company in Holland. I thought it very hard, for I knew not how 
 to truft 'em j but feeing the Merchants, Commanders , and all other perfons 
 clapt up, and their Papers taken from them by force,- that had bought De- 
 bentures j I thought it the beft way to deliver mine, and ftand to their cour- 
 tefie. I often prels'd the General and the Council for my Bill, but after ma- 
 ny delays the General afcertain'd me, that my Bill fhould be in Holland as loon as 
 I. Thereupon defiring the Vice-Admiral and iome others to be my Wirnelies of 
 what the General promis'd, I teok my leave of him, very much repenting my 
 going to Batavia. 
 
 CHAP. XXVI. 
 The Author embarks in a Dutch Vejfel, to return into Europe. 
 
 THE next dav I went aboard the Vice-Admiral, and the third day after we 
 fet (ail, and as foon as we were out of the Streight. we difcover'd the 
 Iflands of the Prince. From thence being in the Altitude of the Coco Iflands, we 
 beat about two days to difcover them but all to no purpofe, thereupon we 
 made diredtly for the Cape of good Hope. 
 
 The fourty-fifth day after our departure from Batavia 3 our Vice- Admiral 
 neglected to put out his Lights j believing all the Fleet had been before at the 
 Cape j fo that it happen'd that one of the Fleet being behind, and not carry- 
 ing any Lights out neither, it being a dark night, fell foul upon us, which put 
 every man to his prayers, all people believing the Veflel had been loft j and 
 indeed hud me not been a found ltanch Ship ( for the Provinces were lb ac- 
 counted) ihe could never have endur'd fo terrible a (hock. At length we clear'd 
 our lelves, by cutting off the Yards of the Maefiricht that hung in our Cor- 
 dage. 
 
 The fifty-fifth we came within view of the Cape of good Hope j but were 
 forc'd to keep the Sea ? becaufe the waves roll'd fo that we were not able to come 
 to an Anchor j not that the Wind was extream high, but becaufe the South- 
 wind had blown fa long that it had forc'd the Water to that part. When the 
 Sea grew calm, we came to an Anchor. 
 
 But of all the people that ever I faw in all my travels, I never (aw any fo 
 hideous nor fo brutifh as the Comouhes t of which I have fpoken in my Perfian 
 Travels j and thofe of the Cape of good Hope t whom they call Cafres, or Ho- 
 fentutes. When they (peak, they make a noife with their tongues, like the 
 breaking of wind backward $ and though they hardly fpeak articulately, yet they 
 eafily underftand one another. They cover them(elves with the Skins of wild 
 Beafts, 1 which they kill in the Woods $ in Winter wearing the hairy part inner- 
 moft, and in Summer outermoft. But there are none but the beft fort among 
 them who are thus clad, the reft wear nothing but a nafty rag about their privy 
 parts. The men and the women are lean and (hort ; and when thev bring forth 
 a Male-child, the Mothers cut out his right Stone ; and prefentlv give him 
 Water to drink r and Tobacco to eat. They cut out the ri^ht Teiticle, becaufe, 
 (ay they, it makes them fwifter to run. There are fome of them that will catch a 
 Roe-Buck running. They neither know what belongs to Gold nor Silver j and 
 for Religion, they have none among them. 
 
 So foon as we caft Anchor, four women came "aboard us, and brought us four 
 young Oilrichesj which were boil'd for fome fick people that we had a- 
 
 board. 
 
Book III. Travels in India. 
 
 board. After that they brought great ftore of Torroife-Shells, and Oftriches 
 Eggs, and other Eggs as big as Goofe Eggs ; which though they had no Yolk, 
 talted very well. The Birds that lay thefe Eggs are a fort of Geefe, and fo fat 
 that they are hardly to be eaten, tafting rather like Fifh than Flefh. The wo- 
 men feeing our Cook throw away the Guts of two or three Fowl which he was 
 dreiling, took them up, and fqueezing out the Ordure, eat them as they were; 
 being hugely pleas'd with the si qua Vit& which the Captain gave them. Nei- 
 ther men nor women are afham'd to fhew their nakednefs, for indeed they are 
 but a lbrt of human Brafts. 
 
 So foon as the Ship arrives, they bring their Beeves to the fhore, with what 
 other Commodities they have, to barter for ftrong Water and Tobacco, Cry- 
 ftal or Agat Beads j or any lbrt of old Iron work. If they are not fatisfi'd with 
 what vou offer them, away they fly ; and then giving a whiftle all their Cat- 
 tel follow 'em j nor fhall you ever, fee 'em again. Some, when they law 'em 
 fly, would {hoot and kill their Cattel ; but after that for fome years they would 
 never bring any more. 'Tis a very great convenience for the Veflels that touch 
 there, to take in frefh Victuals ; and the Hollanders did well to build a Fort 
 there. It is now a good handfome Town, inhabited by all forts, that live with 
 the Hollanders j and all forts of Grain, which are brought out of Europe or Afia 
 and fow'd there, come to better perfection there then in other parts. The Coun- 
 try lies in thirty-five Degrees, and fome few Minutes over, fo that it cannot be 
 faid that either the heat or fcituation of the Climate makes thefe Cafres fo black. 
 Being defirous to know. the reafon,and why they ltunk fo terribly, I learnt it from a 
 Girl that was bred up in the Fort, who was tak'n from her Mother, as foon as 
 fhe Was born, and was white like our women in Europe ; fhe told me, that the 
 read why the Cafres are Co black is, becaufe they rub themfelves with a Greafe 
 or Ointment compos'd of feveral forts of Drugs ; wherewith fhould they not 
 ano c themfelves very often, and as foon as they were born, they fhould be- 
 com Hvdropfical, as the Blacks of Africa, and the Abyfftns are ; or like the 
 peo^e of Saba, that never live above forty years, and are always troubl'd with 
 or. Leg twice as big as the other. Thefe Cafres, as brutifh as they are, have 
 yet fome knowledg of Simples, which they know to apply to feveral Difeafesj 
 which the Hollanders have leveral times' experience!. Of nineteen fick perfons 
 that we had in our Ship, fifteen were committed to the care of thefe Cafres, 
 being troubl'd with Ulcers in their Legs, and old wounds which they had re- 
 ceiv'd in the wars ; and in Iefs then fifteen days they were all perfectly cur'd. 
 Every one of thefe had two Cafres to look after him ; and according to the con- 
 dition of the wound or Ulcer, they went and fetch'd Simples, which they bruis'd 
 between two Stones, and apply'd to the fore. As for the other four, they were fb 
 far gone with the Pox, that they would not truft fhe Cafres with them, having 
 been given over at Batavia, and fo they all dy'd, between the Cape and St. He- 
 lens. 
 
 In the year 1661, a Gentleman of Br it army being at Batavia, was fo bit by 
 the Gnats in the. night, that his Leg exulcerated prefently in fuch a manner, as 
 to puzzle all the art and skill of the Chirurgeons in that Town. When he came 
 to the Cape of pood Hope, the Captain of the Ship fending him afhore, the Cafres 
 came about him, and after they had beheld him, they told him if he would 
 truft to them they would cure him. The Captain thereupon committed him to 
 their care, who cur'd him and made him a found man in lefs then fifteen days. 
 
 When a Ship comes to an Anchor in the Cape, it is the fafhion for him that 
 commands the Ship, to give leave to fome part of the Mariners and Souldiers to 
 go afhore to refrefh themfelves. The fickly have firft leave by turns, and go to 
 the Town, where they are dyeted and lodg'd for feven or eight Sous a day, and 
 are very w^ll us'd. 
 
 It is the cuftom of the Hollanders, when they ftay here, to fend out parties of 
 Souldiers upon the difcoverv of the up-land Country, and they that go fartheft 
 are beft rewarded. With this defign a party of Souldiers, under the Command 
 of a Serjeant, far advane'd in the Country; and night coming on, they 
 made a great fire, as well to keep themfelves from the Lions, as to warm them- 
 felves,and fo lay down to fleep round about it, Being afleep 3 a Lion came and feiz'd 
 
Travels in India. 
 
 Part. II 
 
 one of the Souldiers Arms, which the Serjeant perceiving, immediately mot the 
 Lion with his Carbine ; but when he was dead, they had much ado to open the 
 Lions mouth, to get out the Souldiers Arm. Thus it appears a vulgar error, 
 to believe that Lions will not come near the fire. As for the Souldier, the Ca~ 
 frcs cur'd his Arm in twelve days. There are in th« Fort abundance of Lions 
 and Tigers Skins ; among the reft, there was the Skin of a Horfe which the Cd- 
 fres had kill'd ; it was white, crofs'd with black ftreak$, (potted like a Leopard, 
 without a Tail. Two or three Leagues from the Hollanders Fort , there was a 
 Lion found dead, with four Porcupines Qyils in his body, the third part where- 
 of had pierc'd his flefh. So that it was judg'd, that the Porcupine had kill'd 
 the Lion. The Skin, with the Quils in it, is kept in the Fort. 
 
 A League from the Fort, is a fair Town, that grows bigger and bigger every 
 day. When the Holland Company arrives there with their Ships, if any Sou.1- 
 dier or Mariner will live there,they are very glad of it. They have as much ground 
 as they can mannage ; where they have all forts of Herbs, and Pulfe, and as 
 much Rice, and as many Grapes as they can defire. They have alfo young 
 Oftridges, Beef, Sea-fifh, and fweet water. To catch the Oftridges when they 
 pleafe, they got their Nefts when they are young,, and driving a ftake in the 
 ground, tye the Birds by one Leg to the ftake, and when they are old enough 
 they come and take them out of the Ncft, from whence it is impoflibfe to fly 
 away. 
 
 When the Hollanders began to inhabit the Cape, ffrgy took a young Girl from 
 her Mother, as foon as (he was born ; (he is white, only her Nofe is a little flat. 
 A French man got her with Child, and would have marry'd her; but the Com- 
 panv were fo far from permitting him, that they took away above a hundred - 
 Livres of the Maids wages from her, to punifh her for the mifdemeanour, which 
 was fomewhat hard. 
 
 There are great numbers of Lions and Tigers, which the Hollanders have a 
 prettv invention to take ; they faften a Carbine to a ftake, driv'n into the Eartlr^ 
 and lay meat round about the Gun, which meat is falten'd with a ftring to the 
 Trigger. So that when the Beaft matches the meat, the ftring pull's the Trig- 
 ger, and. the Gun going off, hits the Lion either in the throat or the breaft. 
 
 The Cafr 64 feed upon a Root like our Skerrets, which they roaft and make 
 bread of. Sometimes they grin'd it into flower, and then it tafts like a Wal- 
 nut. For their food they eat the fame Root raw, with raw Fifh ; with the En- 
 trails of Beafts, out of which they only fqueeze the ordure. As for the bowels 
 of the wild Beafts, the women wear them dry'd about their Legs, efpecially 
 the bowels of thofe Beafts which their Husbands kill, which they look upon as 
 a kind of Ornament. They alfo feed upon Tortoifes, when they have fo far heat- 
 ed them at the fire,as to make the Shells come off. They are very expert in darting 
 their Az^agayas j and thofe that have none, make ufe of pointed fticks, which 
 they will lance a great way. With thefe they go down to the Sea-fide, and as 
 foon as ever they fpy a Fifh near the top of the water, they will not fail to 
 ftrike him. 
 
 As for their Birds, which are like our Ducks, whofe Eggs are without any 
 Yolk ; they breed in fuch great quantities in the Countrey , that in a Bay about 
 eighteen Miles from the Cape, you may knock them on the head with a ftick. 
 
 The Hollanders once carried a young Cafre to the General at Batavia, who 
 bred him carefully up, teaching him to underftand the Dutch and Portugal Lan- 
 guages perfectly well. At length being defirous to return into HLs Country, the 
 General gave him very good Cloaths,and good Linnen, hoping that he would have 
 liv'd among the Hollanders , and bin ferviceable to them in the difcovery of the 
 Country j but (o foon as he got home, he flung his Cfoarhs i' the Sea, and return'd 
 wild among his fellow Natives, eating raw flefli as he did before, and quite for- 
 getting his Benefactors. 
 
 When the Cafres go a hunting, they go a great number together, and make 
 fuch a prodigious howling and yelling, that they fright the very Beafts them- 
 felves, and in that affright with eafe deftrov them ; and I have been ahur'd, 
 that their cries do terrifie the Lions themfelves. 
 
 The women are of fo hot a conftitution of Body/ that at the times that their 
 
 monthly 
 
Book III. Travels in India. 
 
 207 
 
 monthly cuftoms are upon 'em, they happen to make water, and that an Euro- 
 pean chances to fet his feet upon it, it caufes an immediate Head-ach and Fea- 
 ver, which many times turns to the Plague. 
 
 CHAP. XXVII. 
 The Holland Fleet arrives at St. Helens. The description of the IJland. 
 
 HAving ftaid two and twenty days at the Cape of good Hope, feeing that the 
 Wind was favourable, we weiglfd, and Iteer'd for St. Helens. When we 
 were under Sail, the Mariners cry'd out, they would fleep till they came into 
 St. He/ens Road. For the wind is very conftant, and carries you in fixteen or 
 eighteen days to the Road of the Ifland. All the trouble that our Mariners 
 had,was that fourteen days after our departure from the C.?p<?,they were often forc'd 
 to the Top-Maft head,upon difcovery of the Ifland ; for as foon as you difcover 
 the Ifland, the Pilot muft take care to freer to the North- fide of the Ifland, be- 
 caufe there is no cafting Anchor but on that fide, and that very near the fhore. 
 too j by reafon of the deepnefs of the water ■, for if the Anchors come not to 
 take hold, the current of the water and the wind carries the Ship quite out of 
 ihe Road, which there is no recovering again, becaufe the wind never changes. 
 
 So foon as the Ships came to an Anchor, part of the Seamen were lent afhore 
 to get wild Hogs, of which there are great plenty ; and to gather Sorrel, which 
 grows in great abundances and indeed they not only fend the Seamen , but a. 1 ! the 
 Pigs, Sheep, Geefe.Ducks,and Pullets aboard, to feed upon that Sorrel, which pur-, 
 ges them in fuch a manner, that in a few days they became fo fat.that by that time 
 we came to Holland they were hardly to be eaten. That Sorrel has the fame 
 operation upon the men, who boiling their wild Swines flefh, Rice, and Sorrel to- 
 gether, make thereof a kind of Potage fo excellent, that it keeps their bodies 
 open by an infenfible purgation. 
 
 There are two places upon the Coaft of St. Helens where Ships may come to 
 an Anchor. But the beft is that where we lay, by reafon that ground is very 
 good, and for that the water that falls from the Mountain is the beft in the Ifland. 
 In this part of the Ifland there is no plain, for the Mountain defcends to the ver$r 
 fhore of the Sea. 
 
 It is not fo good anchoring in the other Road ; but there is a very handfome 
 plain, where you may fow or plant whatever you pleafe. There are great ftore 
 of Citrons, and fome Oranges, which the Portugal* had formerly planted there. 
 For that Nation has that vertue, that wherever they come, they make the place r 
 the better for thofe that come after them ; whereas the Hollanders endeavour to 
 deftroy all things wherever they let footing. I confefs the Commanders are not. 
 of that humour, but the Sea-men and Souldiers, who cry one to another, we fhall 
 never come hither any more, and out of greedinefs will cut down a whole tree 
 inftead of gathering the fruit. 
 
 Some days after there arriv'd a Portuguese Veffel from Guiny, full of Slaves, 
 which were bound for the Mines of Peru. Some of the Hollanders that understood 
 the language of the Negro* s } told 'em how miferably they would be us'd, and 
 thereupon the next night two hundred and fifty of them threw themfelves into the 
 Sea. And indeed it is a miferable flavery ; for fometimes after they have min'd in 
 fome places for fome days together, the Earth being loofe, falls down and kills 
 four or five hunder'd at a time. Befides, that after they have been mining awhile, 
 their Faces, their Eyes, and their Skins change colour ; which proceeds from the 
 vapours that arife from thofe concavities j nor could they fubfift in thofe places, 
 but for the quantity of ftrong Water which they give both to the men and wo- 
 men. There are fome that are made free by their Mafters, who labour however 
 for their living ; but between Saturday night and Munday morning they fpend all 
 their weeks wages in ftrong Water, which is very dear j fo that they ajways live 
 miferably. 
 
 Being ready to depart the Ifland of St. Helens, the Admiral call'd a Council, to " 
 advize which way to fteer. The greateft part were for fteering more to the Weft a 
 
 then 
 
Travels in India. 
 
 Part H. 
 
 then to the South ; becaufe the feafon for failing was far (pent 5 and for that if we 
 fteer'd for the Weft Indies, we fhould find the wind more proper to c^rry us into 
 Holland. But we had no fooner crofs'd the Line, but we found the wind quite con- 
 trary to what the Mariners expected; fo that we were fore'd to fteer to 
 the fixty-fourth Degree of Altitude with the Ifland, and fo return by the North 
 into He Hand. 
 
 C K A P. XXVIII. 
 
 the Holland fleet fets Sail from St. Helens, and profperoujty ar- 
 rives in Holland. 
 
 TH E next day after the Admiral had calPd a Council, we weigh'd and fet Sail 
 about ten a Clock at night. Three days after our departure from St. Helens, 
 the Seamen were call'd very duly to prayers morning and evening ; though all 
 the time we ftay'd in the rode, they never minded any fuch matter $ which made 
 me wonder, to find they mould be more devout when they were out of danger, 
 than when they were in jeopardy. 
 
 After feveral other days failing, we difcover'd the Coaft of I/land, and then the 
 Ifland of Ferella, where Ave join'd with the Holland Fleet that ftay'd for us. Here 
 it is that the Commander in chief calls to account all the Mariners for their mifde- 
 meanours during the whole Voyage. 
 
 Our Ship was bound for Zealand; but we were fore'd to lye out at Sea feven 
 days before we could get into Flr.fii.ng, becaufe the Sand had chang'd its place. 
 Coming to an Anchor before Flufhing, two of the Company came aboard to wel- 
 come us home, and to advife us to lock our Chefts, and put our marks upon 
 them ; for all Chefts are carry'd into the Eaft India Houfe, where when the 
 owners come for them, they are order'd to op'n them, left they mould have any 
 counterband goods therein. Thereupon I fet a mark upon my Chefts, and went 
 afhore, after I had giv'n a good character of the Captain, and his civility to me 
 all the Voyage, and thence proceeded by Land to Middlelugh. 
 
 Four days after I came to Middlebwgh , I went to fetch my Chefts ; and find- 
 ing the two Directors there, one a Z'eaUhder, the other of Horn, who camefirft 
 aboard us j I produce! my Keys, and offer'd my Chefts to be open'd. But the Zea- 
 Under more civil than the Homer, deliver'd me my Keys again, and taking my 
 word, told me I was free to take away my goods. And indeed I have always ob- 
 ferv'd, that the Northern people are always more rude and ungentile than the 
 Southern. 
 
 As for the 17^00 Florins which the General of Batavia promis'd fhould be 
 paid me upon my arrival in Holland, I receiv'd fo many delays' and put ofPs, that 
 I was at length fore'd to commence a Suit that lafted above two years ; nor could 
 I get a publick Notary either at slmftcrdam or the Hague 3 that would make me 
 out a Proteft, every one fearing the Directors, who were both Judges and Par- 
 ties. At length after five years wrangling and jangling, the Director wrote to my 
 Brother at Batavia ( for I was then return'd again to the Indies ) that if I would 
 accept of 10000 Livers, he might receive it for me ; which he did_, and was 
 fore'd to give them an acquittance for the whole. 
 
 This is the return which I made from the Indies in the year 1649, and the 
 only time that ever I return'd by Sea 5 having perform'd all the reft of my 
 Travels by Land, not counting my fhort Voyages through the Mediterranean 
 for any thing. And as for my firft Travels, I perform'd them all by Land, from 
 Paris through Germany and Hungary, as far as Constantinople ; whither I return'd 
 again in the year 1669. From Constantinople I went to Smyrna, thence I fail'd 
 for Ligom j from Ligorn I travel'd by Land to Genoa, thence to Turin, and fo 
 to Paris. 
 
 The End. 
 
20$ 
 
 «$» «f» cy» «^» *$» *9* «$» <t* «^» *i» «f* *$» *r» «f» «f* 
 
 THE 
 
 I N 
 
 X 
 
 TO THE 
 
 Indian Travels 
 
 A. 
 
 ABdouI-Coutou-Sha , the pre- 
 sent King of Gofconda,pag.6 5. 
 His Children, 66. His reply to the 
 Canoneer that would have taken 
 off Aurengzeb's head, 63. See Mir- 
 gimola. 
 
 Abdul Feta, Gelul Eddin Maho- 
 mer, 107. 
 
 Aceph Ben Ali takes Mafcate 
 from the Dutch, 145. His wondrous 
 Pearl, ibid. 1 
 
 Agra, the Kings Talace there, 
 48,49. 
 
 Alegamma Motiar of Ceylan 
 turns thrift ian, and his anfwer to 
 the Jefuits, 16$. 
 
 Amadabat, and the Trade there- 
 of 3 7- 
 
 Amber, where found, rji, 151. 
 
 Ambergreefe, where found, 152. 
 
 Apes, their antipathy against 
 the Crows, 40. The danger of kil- 
 ling one, ibid. Hojpitals for them, 
 48. How fet together by the ears, 
 94- 
 
 Afem, the Kingdom, 187. 
 
 Afouf-KanV Tolicy, 112. Affifls 
 Sha-Jehan, ibid. 
 
 Aft-Kan, 60. Takes Dukabar, 6b, 
 61: J 
 
 Atck, 44. 
 
 Ava, 143. 
 
 Augans, a strange fort of people ^ 
 44- 
 
 Aureng-abar made d City, 61. 
 
 Aureng-zeb his cruelty at Cal- 
 labas. 5 %, ; 5. His 'Dominions, 106. 
 His Power, 108. His Ambition and 
 craft : he joyns with his Brother, 
 Morad-Backlhe, 110, defeats Dara- 
 Sha, ibid, deceives Morad,#»^ \cvds 
 him to Trifon, ibid. He afcends the 
 Throne, 1 16. He affronts his Father, 
 1 20. His Embajfadors affronted by 
 the King of Perfia, 121. His State 
 when he Jits upon his Throne, 123.. 
 
 B 
 
 Agnagar, fee Golconda. pag, 
 61. 
 
 * Ee Bana- 
 
The I 
 
 Banarou, 52. 
 
 Bannians never kill any living 
 thing, 37. Their cruelty to them 
 that do, ibid. Their veneration for 
 Afes, 39, out-do the Jews, 44, 
 
 Bantam the King vifited by the 
 Author; his Entertainment, 196, 
 197,^. 
 
 Bargant, 41. The Raja of Bar- 
 gant entertains the Author, 
 Baroche, 36. 
 
 Begum Saheb, 108, impriforid by 
 Aurengzeb; deprivd of her wealth : 
 her death fulfecJed, 115, 114: re- 
 cord to favour : her wit, iai. 
 
 Bengala, the Revenue of it, 5 1 . 
 
 Bezoar, 153, &c. 
 
 Boutan, a Kingdom; the Commo- 
 dities thereof, 182, 18;, ^r. 
 
 Bramins, a firavge ftory of cue, 
 
 Brampour, 31 ; a Tumuli; there, 
 and the occajion, ibid. 
 
 Breakers Indian, 1 3 3. 
 
 Buildings piblick in India, how 
 reard, 35, 
 
 C. 
 
 CAboul, pag 44. 
 Callabas, 33. 
 Calicut s, where made t ;i, 3 3,40, 
 
 43* 5i. 
 
 Cambava, 36. 
 
 CaravaferaV Indian, /Z>f method 
 therein, 3 a. 
 
 Cardamoms , where had, 73. 
 
 Carriages Indian, 17. 
 
 Carriers ; the Order and Go- 
 vernment among them. 
 
 Cafle, the figmficaticn and kinds , 
 161, 162. 
 
 Cattel, how fed in India, 97. 
 
 Chalaour, 41. 
 
 Cheats in Indian Commodities, 
 
 Check of Mecca comes to Gol- 
 conda in difguife, 66. Marries the 
 King's 'Daughter, 67. Hinders him 
 from Jurrendring to Aurengzeb,68. 
 
 Cheraffs-Indian Bankers, nfub- 
 filer then the Jews, 13. 
 
 NDEX. 
 
 Chincfes feijbn the Dutch Soul- 
 diers, 173. 
 
 Chitcs, 40. 
 
 Chitpour, ib. 
 
 Cifers Indian, 23. 
 
 Cochin, Befiegd by the Dutch, 
 88, Taken, 89. Dutch m ike a mock 
 King of it, ibid. 
 
 Collafar, 53. 
 
 Commodities of the Great Mo- 
 gulV Conntrey, 126, &c. and their 
 frice, 118,1 19, 1 30. 
 
 Comoukes, a defcripion of the 
 Teople and Countrey, 104, &c. 
 
 Candevir, 93. 
 
 Corral, where found, 151. 
 
 Cottons, where made, 31, 36. 
 Where whitened, 36. 
 
 Coulour , the Diamond-Mine , 
 
 1 37, '4*- 
 
 Coins Arabian, 1 . MogulV, 2. His 
 Tributaries, 3. Coins call'd Pagods, 
 4, ?. Englilh WDutch, 5, 6. Made 
 by the King of Chida and Pera, 6. 
 By the King of Achen, Kings of 
 Macaflar, the Celebes, and Cam- 
 bo) a, 7. By the King of Siam, ib. 
 By the Kings of Afem, Tipoura, 
 Arakan and Pegu, 8. Coins of Chi- 
 na and Tunquin, ib. Of Japon, 9. 
 
 Coins Indian, representing the 
 twelve figns, 10. Coins Indian, 22. 
 
 Coins made by the Portugals, 1 2. 
 
 Coins Mufcovian, 1 3. 
 
 Coins European, their value in 
 India, 21, 22. 
 
 Coinage Indian, 17. What lofs, 
 what gain by it, ib. Thrown about 
 at the Kings Afcent to the Thrcne, 
 107. Currant at the Diamond- 
 Mines, 141. 
 
 Cranganor, 89, fromisd by the 
 Dutch to Samarin, ib. DemolifiSd, 
 ib. 
 
 Crocodiles may be wounded, 5 5. 
 How they dye, ib. 
 
 Cuftoms Indian, 17. 
 CuiJoms affronted by an Englifli 
 Captain, 1 7. Exacted by the Per- 
 fians from the Englilh, 75. 
 
 Daca, 
 
The Index. 
 
 211 
 
 D. 
 
 ,Aca, pag. 55. 
 Daman bejiegd by Aurcng- 
 zeb, 72. 
 
 . Dara-Sha his duy to his Father, 
 108. Defeated by his brother, r 10. 
 He fiies into Scindi, he fights a fe- 
 cond Battel with Aurengzeb : He 
 is betraid by JeiTomfeing, 114, then 
 by Gion-Kan, 115. His death, 116. 
 Dehly',45. 
 
 De Lan, a Dutch Chirurgeon, lets 
 the Mogul, his Mother and Wife 
 B lood, iot,. 
 
 Dervichs, 4. See Faquirs. 
 
 Diamonds, a d/fcourfe thereof, 
 134, &c. The forms of [ever a I Dia- 
 monds, 148, 149. Vulgar error con- 
 cerning the pur ■ chafe of them, 141. 
 
 "Diamond Miners, their cusloms, 
 138. 
 
 Dultabat, 60,61. 
 
 Dutch fend an Embajjador to 
 China, 19a. Their reveng&upon the 
 Jefuits, 193. 
 
 Dutch break their word with 
 the King of Caudy, i 94 ; with the 
 King of Achen ; at War with the 
 King of Java, 202 ; they quarrel 
 with the Author. 
 
 E. 
 
 ELephants deflroy the Banni- 
 an's Idols, pag. 34 ; the Woods 
 op Mirda, 43, affrighted; the lofs 
 of AurengzebV Army , 72; how 
 taken, 9 5 ; how tamd, ib. Their 
 fury , ib. The difference between 
 them, 96. Eaten by the Natives, ib. 
 How. taken in Ceilan, ib. The tusks 
 due to the Lord, ib. How the fe- 
 male receives the male, ib. A re- 
 mark, peculiar to Ceilan Elephants, 
 ib. Their age, ib. The number kept 
 by the Great Mogul, and his Ex- 
 pence s, 97 ; how waJJSd, 103. 
 Emir-'jemla, 116, 118. 
 Emraulds, the Vulgar error con- 
 cerning them, 114. 
 
 -\^0 
 
 Eunuchs, covetous of Monu- 
 ments, 5. 
 
 Exchange Indian, 16, 27, 
 
 FAquirs,- their manner of travel- 
 ling, pag. 41 ; their Habit and 
 Arms, ib. The refpefl given them, 
 ib. Their Religion, 1 60 : their 'Pe- 
 nances, 165, &c. Their extrava- 
 gancies returning from Mecca. 
 
 Feafl ; the Great Mogul V grand 
 FeasJ when he is weigtid, 122. 
 
 G. 
 
 tl Anges, pag. 51, an ordinary 
 J River, ib. and bad water, 52. 
 Gani; fee Coulour. 
 Gate, what manner of place, 34. 
 Gehanabad , 45 ; the MogulV 
 Palace there, 45, 46, 47. 
 
 Gehanguir, ninth King of the 
 Indians. He permits Nourmahal 
 his Wife to Reign in his ftead. 
 He put out his Eldefl Soils eyes, 
 in. He prefers his Grandchild to 
 the Throne, ib. Dies, ib. 
 
 Gion-Kan a Traytor j his death, 
 115. 
 
 Goa^ the present State of it, 74. 
 
 Golconda defcritfd, 61. The Po- 
 licy and Government of the City, 
 64. 
 
 Gold, where found, 1 56, &c. 7 
 
 Gomron -Road heat excefjive, in- 
 jures the Ships, 90. 
 
 Gondicot taken by Mirgimola, 
 <)%.DefcrWd,\\). 
 
 Govaleor, 35. The Prifonfor the 
 Indian Grandees, ib. 1 r 
 
 Guards, how relieved at (jo!- 
 conda, 64. 
 
 Ha 
 
 HAlabas } pag.52. The Governor 
 a great Terfon, ib. The cru- 
 elty of his Phyfitian, ib. 
 Hameth-Sheck, 107, 
 
 Java, 
 
212 
 
 The Index. 
 
 j 
 
 i. 
 
 Ava, the King thereof, pag. 202. 
 Javaniers, good Soiildiers, 203. 
 Jeflbm-fcing betrays Dara-Sha , 
 
 JI 4- 
 
 Idolaters belief touching a Dei- 
 ty, 1^4. Of the ft ate of the Soul 
 after death, 167. Of their burning 
 their dead, 168. Their fever al 
 cuftoms, 179. 
 
 Idolatrous Trinces of Afra, 163. 
 
 Indians cunninger then the Jews, 
 23. Their manner of crojfing Ri- 
 vers, 100, 102. Their Superftition, 
 97. The Tenance of the Women^o. 
 Their Alms, ib. Their Tilgrima- 
 ges, 1 01. Their craft me fs , ioz. 
 Their Thy fick, 102. Their hone fly, 
 1 36, 137. Their manner of driving 
 bargains, ib. Their Penances, 1 3 1 . 
 
 Indigo, where made, 36, 37,43. 
 
 Indolftan bounded, 106. 
 
 Jro72 of Golconda, /fo ^/7, 65. 
 
 Ifland of St. Helens dtfcriBd. 
 
 Ivory the btft, 96. 
 
 Juftice m India quick, 99, 100. 
 
 K. 
 
 Kemercmf, a City, pag. 188. 
 
 L 
 
 Ahor, pag. 45. 
 
 Letter-Carriers, no. 
 Lions, how tamd, 40. 
 
 M. 
 
 Meafures Indian, 27. 
 
 Mingrela, 73. 
 
 Miracle done by a Bramin, 
 101, 102. 
 
 Miracn-Sha, 107. 
 
 Mirda, 43. 
 
 Mirgimola, the King of Golcon- 
 da\r General, 67. He is fufpecJed 
 by the King, ib. He revolts, 68. He 
 jvyns wiJj Aurengzeb, ib. bejieges 
 Che King, ib. and cunningly fettles 
 a new 'Peace, ib. entertains t he Au- 
 thor at Gondicot, 98, 99. How he 
 difpatcFd bufinefs, 99. He conquers 
 Alem, 187. 
 
 Mirza-Abdoul-Cofing marries the 
 King of Golconda'j- third "Daugh- 
 ter, 69. 
 
 Mirza Mahomed, 68. See Check 
 of Mecca. 
 
 Moguls, why fo calfd, 106. 
 
 Money; the force of it in India, 
 19. What moft proper to be carrid 
 into India, 18, 21. 
 
 Monuments Indian ; their fump- 
 tuctifnefs,^, 50, 5 a, 61. 
 
 Morad-Backfhe, 108, Vice- Roy of 
 Guzerat, ib. He rebels againB his 
 Father, 109, bejieges Surat, ib. pro- 
 claims himfelf King, ib. He gives 
 credit to Aurengzebj fallacies, ib. 
 joyns with him, no, and defeats 
 Dara-Sha, ib. wounded, ib. He fees 
 his error, is betraid, and fent to 
 Govaleor, ib. 
 
 Mountebanks, Indian, 36. 
 
 Multan, 43. 
 
 Musk, 153. Its adulterations, ib. 
 
 MAr aflar, a Kingdom defer iFd, 
 191. The King f boots an 
 Engliih Malefitfor with a poifond 
 Arrow, 191. His difference with 
 the Hollanders, 192. 
 Maldives Iflands, 90. 
 Malvares, Indian Tyrats, 7 
 Mafcate, 16. 
 Maflipatan, 70. 
 
 Matura, one of the chiefesJ Ta- 
 gods of the Indians, 48. 
 
 N 
 
 N. 
 
 Ader, pag. 3 5. 
 Nahab, what it fignifies, 
 
 s 1 
 
 Navapoura, 30, famous for Rice, 
 ib. 
 
 Nava-Sevagi revolts from the 
 King of Vifapour, 75. 
 
 Nourmahal, Queen of India, her 
 Extraction, 11, 12. 
 
 Offer- 
 
The Index. 
 
 o. 
 
 ORfervations particular upon 
 the Mogul V Court, pag. 1 24, 
 
 125. 
 
 Omrahs, their duty, m. 
 Ormur , the 'manner of Sailing 
 from Or; . is to Surar, 1 5. 
 Outemeda, 97. 
 
 P. 
 
 PAgods Indian dejcrib'd, 91, 95, 
 94, 97, 102. 77?e moil cele bra- 
 led among the Indians, 173, &c. 
 Palicat, 93. 
 
 'Pajfage by Sea from Ormus to 
 Maflipatan, 90. 
 
 'Patfes, inhere requtrd, 44, 5 2. 
 Patna, 53. 
 
 'Peacocks plentiful, 37. /2W 
 caught, ib. 
 
 'Pearls, and where fijlSdfor, 145. 
 J/o^ ^otc fiftid for, and at 
 
 what time, 1 46, £f)r. 
 
 Perca, a petty Indian King, 89. 
 
 Thyfitians, none in India , but 
 Juch as Ut end 'Princes, 10 a. 
 
 'Pilgrimages of the Indians, 179. 
 
 Ponte Galle, 194. 
 
 Portugals, their power in Goa, 
 74, 75. 7$<?/r exceffive pronenefs to 
 revenge , ib. difcover a Jt range 
 Count rey,^^, 84. 
 
 c Pries~ts Indian, how maintain d, 
 
 Prefents given by the Author at 
 the Great Mogul' j Court, 59. 
 
 R. 
 
 RAge-Mehide, 54. 
 Raokonda, Diamond-Mine, 
 
 Rauchenara-Eegum, 108, always 
 a friend to Aurengzeb. His kind- 
 ness to her ; their falling out, 121. 
 
 Religion of the Mahumetans in 
 the Indies, 1 59, &c. Of the Idola- 
 trous Indians, 161. 
 
 Roads from Ifpahan to Agra 
 through Gomron, 1 5 ; from Surat 
 
 to Agra through Brampour and Se- 
 ronge, 30, through Amadabar, 36. 
 From Ifpahan to Agra, through Can- 
 dahar, 43. From Dehly to Agra,48. 
 From Agra to Patna, rt?/^Daca, 51. 
 From Surat to Golconda, 60. From 
 Golconda to Mafiipatan, 69. From 
 Surat to Goa ; from Goa f 0 Gol- 
 conda, throughYifapoar, 71. Fnw* 
 Goa ft? Mallipatan, through Cochin, 
 8 8. From Mallipatan to Gandicot, 
 91. From Gandicot to Golconda,' 
 100; to the Mines, 137, 139, 141. 
 
 Rodas the Fortrefs, 139. 
 
 Roupies, the difference of them, 
 10. 
 
 Rubies, the forms of fever al, 
 
 149^ Mo- 
 
 Rule to know the price of Dia- 
 monds, 141, 143. 
 
 S. 
 
 SAltpeter, where refnd, 53. 
 Samarin, an Indian King, 89. 
 Saferon, 53. 
 Say-Nieces Indian, 25, 26. 
 
 Sepper-chekour, 115, fent to Go- 
 valcor, 116. 
 
 Sera, the Jignif cation of the 
 word, 31. 
 Scronge, 33. 
 
 Serpents, their val~l bulk, and 
 deadly venom, 34. 
 
 Scva-gi continues the revolt, 7 3 . 
 He finds vafl Treafures, ib. 
 
 Sha-Eft-Kan, ao, 14, 56 ; buys 
 the authors Jewels, 104; his kind- 
 ness to the Author, ib. revolts to 
 Aurengzeb, no. 
 
 Sha-Jehan/r/? o/Z/WSha-Bedin- 
 Mahomet, 107. His good Govern- 
 ment, 108. He marries a young 
 Lady, ib. His children, ib. His love 
 to his children^. He rebels againft 
 his Father, is dijinherited, in. He 
 is advancd to the Throne, 1 1 a. His 
 cruelty, ib. He is kept P'nfoner by 
 Aurengzeb, and dies, 113, 
 
 Siam, a Kingdom-, the King of 
 it, 119, ^r. 
 
 Siren, 143. 
 
 Sodo- 
 
 * 
 
214 
 
 The Index. 
 
 Sodomy abominated by the Indi- 
 ans, 54. 
 
 Solyman Chekour defeats his 
 Vnckle,ioy Betraid by Raja Roup, 
 flies to Na&iran, 114. Is deliver d 
 up by him, 119. Sent Trisner to 
 GovaJeor. 
 
 SoumeJpour, 1 39. 
 
 Stones colour d, where found, 143. 
 
 Stones medicinal, and their ef- 
 fects, 154, 155. 
 
 Stories of the man that luf his 
 child in Swimming, 38. Of the 
 Merchant's Wife that defird a 
 child, 39. Of the Merchant that 
 Tier told lye, ib. The Story of Mon- 
 Jieur Belloy, 79. Of the rich Leaper 
 in Goa, ib. Of St. Amant, and 
 John de Rofe, and the Sieur Ma- 
 refts, ib. 80, 81, &c. Of Father 
 Ephraim, 85, 86, 87. 
 
 Sultan Aboufaid-Mirza, 107. 
 
 Sultan Babur, 107. 
 
 Sultan Boulaki preferrd by Sha- 
 Jehan, lift. Betraid by Afouf-Kan, 
 1 1 2. Retires into Perfia, ib. 
 
 Sultan Kourom, 107. See Sha- 
 Jehan. 
 
 Sultan Mahomed, Mogul, 107. 
 
 Sultan Mahomed, AurengzebV 
 Son, marries the feccud 'Daughter 
 of the King of Golconda, 69. He 
 flies to his ZJnckle, 117. Is betraid 
 by Emir-Jcmla, and imprifou W,i 1 8, 
 119. 
 
 Sultan Selim , alias Jehanguir 
 Patska, 107. 
 
 Sultan Soujah, 108. Rebels, .loy. 
 He flies to the King of Arakan, 
 marries his 'Daughter, 119. Plots 
 
 againft him, ib. His death, 1 20. 
 Sumbaco King of Macaflar, 192. 
 Surat, 1 5. 
 
 T. 
 
 TAmurleng, 106. 
 Tari,^^, 65. 
 lavernier abused at the MogulV 
 
 Court, 57, 58. 
 
 Teaara a fweet place, 69, 
 Thrones ; the dejcription of the 
 
 Moguls Ttjrones, 12a, &c. 
 
 Thunderbolts three at a time 
 
 9'- 
 
 Tipra a Kingdom, 186. 
 Travelling, the manner in India, 
 *7, *9- 
 
 Treachery, a notable piece put 
 upon the Author at Gomron, 157. 
 Turquoifes, where found, 144. 
 
 V. 
 
 Vifapour defcrib'd, 72. 
 W. 
 
 Weights Indian for Gold and Sil- 
 ver, 1 8 . Other weights ^7. Of Dia- 
 monds, 140. Of colour d Stones,!^. 
 Oj c F 'earls, 148. 
 
 Winds hot, their flifling nature, 
 44. 
 
 Wives of the Indians burnt a- 
 live with their dtad Husbands, 
 169,^170, 171, 172. 
 
 Woods of Bambous, 94. 
 
A NEW 
 
 ELATION 
 
 OF 
 
 The Inner-Part 
 
 OF THE 
 
 AGLIO 
 
 Containing 
 
 Several Remarkable Particulars, never before ex- 
 pos d to publick view. 
 
 By y B. Tavernier, Baron of Aubonne. 
 
 o|V> 
 
 clocks ciiS 
 
 <Jjl» 
 
 mm 
 m 
 
 LONDON: 
 
 Printed, and Sold by RL. and <£Adofes Pitt, 
 
 i 6 7 7 < 
 
THE 
 
 Authors Defign. 
 
 IQueftion not but that feveral Relations of the Grand 
 Seigfior's Seraglio have been publifh'd ; but I am to 
 acknowledge withal, that I have riot had the leifure 
 to read any one of them. I have travelled Six feve- 
 ral times, by Land, into the E aft /and by different 
 Roads, during the fpace of Forty Years : and mod Perfbns 
 know, that my Employments were fuch, as would not allow 
 me much time for the reading of Books. But when my Af- 
 fairs afforded me any remifsion, I wholly employed thole 
 fpare hours, in the collection of things the molt worthy to be 
 remarked, whether the Scene lay in Turkey V or in Terfia, or 
 in the Indies, on this, or the other fide of the River Ganges, or 
 in the Diamond-Mi?tes, which are in the Territories of divers 
 Princes. While I am bufied in putting into order thole Me- 
 moires,which I conceive my felf oblig'd to gratify the Publick 
 withall, I make it aPrefent of this Relation . of the Seraglio, 
 attended with fome Obfervations fufficiently remarkable, 
 which, haply, will not be unpleafant. 
 
 The Ottoman Court , which makes fo much noife in the 
 World, has not, to my thinking, been yet fufficiently well 
 known, if I may judge of it, by what I have feen thereof my 
 felf, and have heard from feveral Perfons. I do here com- 
 municate a faithful and ample delcription thereof : which I 
 have extracted, as well out of what I had obferv'd my felf, in 
 the feveral Voyages I made to Conflantinopte^s out of the infor- 
 mations I receiv'd from two intelligent Perfons,who had fpent 
 many years in the Svragliojn. very confiderable Employments, 
 One of whom was a Sicilian, advanced to the Charge ofCbaj- 
 nadar-bachi, or chief Officer belonging to the Treaiury and 
 after Five and Fifty Years Service in the Seraglio, was, for fome 
 flight mifcarriage committed by him, banifh'd to a place neer 
 Bur/a, in Natolia, from whence he made his efcape into the 
 Indies. The other," a Tarifian-bom, named De Vtenne, had 
 been one of the Pages of the Treafury. In his Return from 
 the Jubilee at tifyme, in the Year M.DC.L. being aboard a 
 Brigantine bound from Civita Vecchia to Marfe'dles , he was 
 
 ( A 2 ) taken 
 
taken by the Pirates of Tripoli t 2xiA the Baffa finding that young 
 Lad well fhap'd, and looking like one that promised much, 
 fent him, as a Prefent,to the Grand Seignor. He was alio 
 pack'daway out of the Seraglio, after Fifteen Years Service, 
 only upon this fcore, that there was iome dilcovery made, of 
 his holding afecret correfpondence with the difgrac'd Skil'tgn y 
 who had heretofore {hewn him much kindnefs, and indeed it 
 was by his credit that the Tarijian was firft advancd to the 
 Chamber of the Treafury, 
 
 From thofe tWo men, who were in a faif capacity to make 
 exact Obfervations of things, have I extracted the better pare 
 of this <3{elation. Though they had been fore'd to embrace 
 the erroneous perfwafion of JMahomet, yet were there fome 
 Relicks of the good fentiments of Chriftianity : And whereas 
 there Was not the leaft hope of recovering the honours ; where- 
 in they pride themfelves who are exalted to Charges in the 
 Seraglio, it is not to be imagined, that they could have any 
 defign to difguife things to me. They themfelves thought it 
 a certain pleafure to defcend to a greater familiaricy of Dif- 
 courfe, and to fpecifie even the leaft circumftances : but I am 
 to difcover withal, that having had their education amongft 
 the Turks j and learnt of them, to love Mony, it muft have 
 been fo much the greater charge to me, to give them content. 
 I have kept them for a considerable fpace of time, at my own 
 charge, and that in feveral places, one at IJpahan in Terfia, and 
 the other in the Indies., where they had made their refidenceSj 
 and the Memoires which they fupply'd me withal were per- 
 fectly concordant. 
 
 To the Inftructions, which I made a fhift to get from thofe 
 two men, and to what difcoveries I may have made my felf, 
 of the prefent Mate of the Grand Seignor 's Palace, I fhall add 
 fome neceffary Obfervations of the Manners and Cuftomes of 
 feveral Provinces of the Ottoman Empire, (lightly paffing over 
 thole things, which, in all probability , are generally known. 
 But that the Reader may with greater eafe comprehend the 
 matters I treat of, and that the Difcourfe may not be inter- 
 rupted, by the neceffary explication of the feveral names of 
 Charges and Dignities, I have thought it fit, in the firfl: place, 
 to give a fhort Lift of them, after which fhall follow another, 
 of the different Species of Mony, which are current all over 
 the Turfojh Empire. 
 
 A 
 
TABLE 
 
 OF 
 
 The Chapters contained in this Relation. 
 
 Of the Charges and Dignities as well of the Seraglio, 
 as of the Ottoman Empire ; 
 
 AND 
 
 Of the different Species of Gold, and Silver, now current 
 
 in TURKEY. 
 
 C> Hap. i. Of the Extent, and out- fide of the Seraglio, 
 j Hi Of the firft Court of the Seraglio, and particularly of the 
 Jnfrmery. 
 
 Ill, Of the fecond Court, in %hich are the leffer Stables, the Kjtchins, 
 and the Divan. 
 
 1 V. Of the Divan-Hk//, and the exaB adminiflration of Jufike 
 
 there by the Grand Seignor. 
 Yi Of the inner part of the Seraglio in general, and particularly of the 
 
 Quarter of the Eunuchs and the Ichoglans. 
 V L Of the Hall, Inhere the Qrand Seignor gives Audience to Ambaf- 
 
 fadors, andlyolo they are receiYd. 
 
 VII. O f the 'Baths of the Seraglio. 
 
 VIII. Of the Grand Seignor s Treafure, 
 I X. Of the fecret Treafure. 
 
 X. Of the means us'd by the Qrand Seignor, to augment hisTreafury, 
 
 befxdes the ordinary Revenues of the Empire. 
 X I. A fubtle way tbhich the Grand Seignor has to beftoip great Libe- 
 ralities without medling "tyith his Revenues. 
 
 Chap, 
 
Chap. XII. Of the Trefent lohich the Grand Seignor fends eyery 
 Tear to Mecha* 
 
 XIII. Of the Cellar j and diners other Apartments. 
 
 XIV. Of the Quarter of the Dogangi-bachi a or Grand Falconer, 
 
 "andfome other Officers. 
 X V. Of the Grand Seignor's own Apartment. 
 
 XVI. Of the Grand Seignor's ordinary Occupations. 
 
 XVII. Of theWomens Quarter. 
 
 XVIH. The Entrance into Constantinople of the Sultanefs, (Mo- 
 ther to the Grand Seignor) Tfrho has the honorary Title of 
 La Valid£, on the fecond of July, 1 668 . 
 
 XIX. Of the Gardens of the Seraglio. 
 
 X X. Of the Trincesy^ho follow the Mahumetan Religion in Eu~ 
 r ope, Ada, and' Africa , 
 
 . ■ J _ 
 
 ^ _ _ _J 
 
 I "\c\ 1 ft 
 
 A NEW 
 
 orb: 
 
A NEW AND EXACT 
 
 RELATION 
 
 OFTHE 
 
 Grand Seignor s 
 
 RAGLIO 
 
 O F 
 
 The Charges and Dignities as well of the Seraglio? 
 as of the Ottoman Empire. 
 
 As alio, 1 
 
 Of the different Species of G o l d and Silver- 
 COINS, now current in TURKEY. 
 
 The Principal Heads of the following Difcourfe. 
 
 *T*He Origine of the Grandees of the Port. The fever e Difcipline of the Se- 
 ;•?! raglio. The Authority of the four Principal Bajfa's, of dangerous confe- 
 rence to the Grand, Seignor ^and how he can take it off. Ohfcrvations upon 
 Standarts. Of the Plume of Herons Feathers which the Grand Seignor 
 wears in his Turbant. The Honours and Difadv ant ages attending the 
 Charge of the Grand Vifir. The particular Priviledge of the Caimacan. 
 The number of the real Janizaries. The tranfcendent priviledge of their 
 Aga, or Colonel-General. The happy condition of the Spahis, and the Za- 
 ims. The prodigious number ^/Eunuchs all over the Tafiern parts. £x- 
 quifite Obfervations upon that Subject. The principal Charges of the Se- 
 raglio. The noble advantages of the Capi- Aga. The Repute and Riches 
 of the Kiflar-Agafi, Intendant, or Overfeer, of the apartment of the 
 fVomen. That the Charge of Boftangi-Bachi is one of the mofi eminent 
 cfthofe belonging to the Port. The great Oeconomy of the Partisans. 
 The Polieyof tbe Port 7 to keep the Cham of the leffer Tartary/'/? fub- 
 jecfion. The Principal Dignities of Perfons relating to the Law. The 
 Species of Gold and Silver -Coins current in Turkey. PVhence,andhow t 
 the Geld coind at Cairo is brought thither* The fincerity of the Aby ffi ns . 
 
 The 
 
2 A Relation of the Grand Seignor's Seraglio. . 
 
 The Story of the Commerce carried on in the di/pofal of the five Sois Pie- 
 ces, French Mony. The jealouftes of the Perfons concern din that Trade, 
 yfmfchievow Traud mildly pun'fy d. The ancient fncerity of the Turks 
 corrupted by the Commerce of the Europeans. 
 
 The Origin of ^"~H ^ ^ e Y whoareadvane'd to Charges,whether it be in theSeraglio,or in the Em- 
 tbe Grandees of P* ire (excepting only the Eunuchs,of whom I (hall give an account anon) are 
 
 the Fort. generally rais'd out of the Children taken in War,or fent by way of Prefents, 
 
 JsL~ by the BafTa's,or out of the Tributary Children, who^about nine or ten years 
 of Age are taken out of their Mothers arms,through all the Provinces fubdu'd by 'the Ot- 
 toman Princ s They are all to be of Chriftian Parents i and counting only the Slaves ta- 
 ken from the Enemy, we find by the Regiftcrs of the Cuftom-houfe of Conftantinople 
 alone, that, of both Sexes, there are brought thither every year , near twenty thou- 
 fand. The Inhabitants of the lefTer Tartary, who make continual Incurfions into all 
 the Countries, that are in Koftility againlf the Ottoman Empire, fend up valt numbers 
 of them, and the Grand Seignor having the choice of all thofe young Children, the 
 beft fhap'd, and fuch as have the moft promifing looks, are diftributed into fcveral Se- 
 raglio's, to be there inftrudfed in the Law of Mahomet, and all forts of Exercifes. And 
 afterwards, out cf the choice or callings of thefe hit is the Seraglio of Conftantinople 
 replenifh'd \ and they are to be diftinguiflfd into two Orders. The firft and the melt 
 eminent is that of the Icboglans,&tf\%ci& for the great Charges and Dignities of the Em- 
 pire : The fecond, that of the Azamoglans, employ'd in fuch Offices as require only 
 itrength of body. The Ichoglans, are thofe, in whom, befides the accomplilhments 
 "of the Body, they difcover alfo a noble Genius, fit for a high Education, and fuch as 
 may render them capable of ferving their Prince, fome time or other. 
 
 thefevereDi- Thefe are accordingly inftru&ed with great care, and educated with the obfervance 
 fcipline of the of a moft fevere Difcipline. They pafs through four fcveral Chambers, calPd Odd's, 
 Seraglio. which are as it were four Forms,where they learn.in order, whatever k convenient for 
 young perfons, who are to be continually about a great Prince, and are as it were his 
 Pages, or Gentlemen. If they commit the leaft fault, they are feverely chaftis'd, and 
 there is a great ftock of patience requifite , for any one to be advane'd to the fourth 
 Oda, which when they have attain'd, they begin to take a. little breath. But the 
 hopes of being exalted to the greateft Honours, and the moft eminent Dignities makes . 
 them endure the barbarous treatments of the Eunuchs, who are appointed to be their 
 Mafters,and are very liberal of the Baftinado to them. I (ball give anac:ount elfewherc 
 of the manner of their Education, and of thofe four Odas, or Chambers, where they 
 learn thofe things, whereby they are qualified for the Charges, for which the Grand 
 Seignor defigns them. Though it be appointed by the received Cuftom of the Em- 
 pire, that thofe Children (hould be all defcended from Chriftian Parents, of the beft 
 extraction, and the beft lhap'd that can be found \ yet the Capi-Aga, or Grand Ma- 
 tter of the Seraglio, the Principal of the white Eunuchs, who hath the chief Com- 
 mand over the Ickiglans, fticks not to admit into their number fome natural Turl^ y 
 fuch as may be recommendable, upon the fcore of their good qualities and endow- 
 ments : But that happens very feldom, and that not without the particular pcrmiffion 
 of the Prince, who would rather have all thofe Children to be Renegado-Chriftians. 
 And this is the Origine of the Great Perfons belonging to the Grand Seignor,and 
 the Port. They are all Slaves, and not having any knowledge of their Parents, or 
 Relations, they wholly apply their affections to the Service of their Prince, who has 
 been pleas'd to advance them to fuch high Fortunes. 
 
 The Authority of The Bajfa's therefore are taken out of the Order of the Ichoglans, and the name of 
 the four Frinci- Bafja, or Bajha, is only a Title of Honour and Dignity, common to all the Grandees 
 ^di^tfomcln °f tnc P° rt -> w h° are diftinguilhable, according to the difference of their Charges. 
 feqianct7o the * our Principal are thefe. The Vizir- Azem, or Grand Vizir, the Caimacan, the 
 Grand seignor Bafta of the Sea, and the Aga of the Janizaries. The Authority of thefe four Baffa's 
 and hove he can is fo great, that fometimes they deprive their Sovereign of the Crown, and beffow it 
 take it of. on whom they pleafe ; as it has happen'd, in our Age, to two Emperours immediately 
 fucceeding one the other, Muftapha, and Ofman, of whom the later dy'd in Prifon, by 
 
 the 
 
A Relation of the Grand Seignor s Seraglio. 3 
 
 rhe infamous hand of a common Executioner. But, on the other fide, if thefe Bajfas 
 know not how to take their meafures rightly, they lofe their heads upon the leaft mis- 
 carriage, the Grand Seignor feizing to himfelf all their Eftates at their death, and ta- 
 king their Children into the Seraglio. Nay, thefe laft are lb far from fucceeding their 
 Fathers, either as to wealth or imployments, even though it were the Son of a Grand 
 Vizir, or of a Sifter of the Emperour himfelf, that the higheft advancement they are ad* 
 mitted to, is to be made Captains of Gallies •, the policy of the Turkj- not permitting, 
 that in any one Houfe there fhould be a transferrence of power from Father to Son, that 
 fo they may be prevented from taking any occafions to difturb the State. It may be 
 feen by this account of them, that the fortune of the Bajfas, which, for a time, feems 
 fo fplendid, is but a tottering fortune, upon which, neither the Son, nor the Father 
 himfelf, what repute foever he may be in, can make any fure relyance. 
 
 The Bajfas, who have the denomination of Vizirs, carry three Banners or Stand- Obfirvations 
 ards, at the top of which there is a Horfe-tayl faften'd, put into what colour they pleafe the Stand' 
 themfelves, green only excepted, though they are permitted to paint the Staff, to which gr ^ s ' 
 the Standard is faften'd, with that colour. The Origine of this Cuftom was thus, aq-< 
 cording to the Story which the lurks relate of it. Having one day given Battel to the 
 Chriftians, their Standard was taken in the heat of the Engagement, and the General of 
 the Turks, perceiving that the lofs of the Standard was a discouragement to the Souldi- 
 ers, who were beginning to take their flight, he with a Cymitar cut off a Horfe's tayl, 
 and faften'd it to the top of a half-Pike, and advane'd it on high, crying out, Here is 
 the Grand Standard, let him who loves me follow me. Immediately the Turks re-affum'd 
 courage, and, having rally'd, renew'd the Charge, and gain'd the Victory. The 
 Officers, who are about the Perfons of the BaJJa's, have alfo their Standards, but they 
 are not allow'd to add thereto one of thole tayls •■> and it is to be obferv'd, that the Baf- 
 fas, who are not Vizirs, can carry but two of them •, as the Beys, who are inferiour 
 to the B^'/, and Go vernours of leffer Provinces, carry but one of them. When the 
 Grand Seignor goes into the Country, there are feven Standards carry'd, in regard that, 
 according to the Turks, the World is divided ifito feven parts, or feven Climats, where- 
 of the Grand Seignor is Mafter, if taken according to its breadth, and 'tis for that rea- 
 (bn, that, in their language, they give him the title of Majier of all Kings. This is 
 grounded upon what Mahomet faid, That he, who, after his death, fhould be Mafter of 
 thofe Territories, where his Sepulchre were found, fhould affume the title of Mafter or 
 chief of all the Kings upon Earth. They add, that there are but three Empires, which 
 are, thofe of Conjiantinople, Babylon and Trebizond : And 'tis for that reafon, that the 
 Grand Seignor wears three plumes of black Heron-tops, in hisTurbant. Take notice 
 by the way, that they are only the Herons of Candid which have their tops perfectly 
 black, the Herons of all other Countries having them, either white, or of a mixt co- 
 lour. And becaufe there muft be a confiderable quantity of them to make up a plume, 
 it muft accordingly be of a very great value, which poilibly has occafion'd its being out 
 of ute in Europe : For as to all the Princes of Afia, they have ftill a great efteem for the 
 Heron-tops =, but they muft not have the leaft defecl:, and if the points of them be ever 
 fo little broken, there is no account made of them, as being things of very little value. 
 By thofe three Heron-tops upon the Grand Seignor's Turbant, it is known that the 
 Grand Vizir is in the Army ; inafmuch as at that time, he wears but two of them, and 
 the thing is worthy our obfervation. When the Army is to march, the Grand Seignor 
 gives order for the drawing up of thofe Troops, which are at Conftanfinople, and the 
 parts adjacent, and having the Grand Vizir near him, he preflnts him to them for their 
 General. The Souldiers, at that time, fay not a word, nor do they make the ordina- 
 ry falute, till after the Grand Seignor has caus'd one plume of tlie Heron-tops to be ta- 
 ken out of his Turbant, and to be put upon that of the Grand Vizir "■> and upon that 
 Ceremony, the whole Army falutes him, and acknowledge him for their General, and 
 from that very time are to receive their Pay from him. 
 
 Having fpoken of the Baffas in general, it is requifite I Ihould give fome Idea of 
 thofe, who are advane'd to the principal Charges of the Empire \ and I {hall bring into 
 that Lift, the Grand Vizir, accompany'd by fix others, who have the quality of Vizirs^ 
 the Caimacan } the Bajfa of the Sea-, and the Aga of the Janizaries > after whom I fhall 
 
 C B ) come, 
 
A Relation of the Grand Seignor s Seraglio. 
 
 come down to the Beglierbeys, and to the Sangiacbeys, and to the Boftangi-Bachi, who 
 has one of the moft eminent Charges of the Port. 
 
 ThiHonours and The Vizir- Azem, or Grand Vizir, is the Lieutenant-General of the Empire, and of 
 Disadvantages t ^ e Armies, the principal Perfon of the Council, and he who, under the Grand Seignor's 
 attending the Q r( j ers , nas t he abfolute difpofal of all Affairs, relating to the State, or to the War, ha- 
 Vizir ' vnl £ m h* s cu ft 0c ty tne Imperial Seal. He is attended by, and has affiftant to him, in 
 
 the Divan, fix other Vizirs, whom they call Vizirs of the Bench, and who are properly 
 Counfellors of State, but yet fuch as have not any deliberative voice, and come not into 
 the Divan, but only to be confulted upon fome point of Law, wherein they are well 
 skill'd, without intermedling with the Government of the State > or concerning them- 
 felves in any Affair, unlefs their advice be requir'd. There are alfb rive Beglerbeys, on 
 whom the Grand Seignor bellows the qualification of Vizirs, and are poflefs'd of the 
 greateft and wealthieil Governments of the Empire, to wit, the Bajfas of Babylon, 
 Cairo, Buda, Natolia and Romania. The three former, who are the three principal, 
 had heretofore the priviledge ( exclufively to all the other Bajfas ) of having carried 
 before them ( in the fame manner as the Grand Vizir had ) the three Horfe-tayls, of 
 which I have related the Story. But at the prefent, that priviledge extends to the two 
 other Bafjds of Natolia and Romania, and they are all five equal, as to that point. 
 
 I am now to return to the Grand Vizir, who has a magnificent Court, anfwerable to 
 fhe greatnefs of the Mafter, whom he ferves, and there are in his houfe above two 
 thoufand Domefticks. Though he lyes expos'd, as well as the other Baffas, to the in- 
 dignation of the Prince, and fore'd to fend him his Head, when he requires it j yet 
 does the Grand Seignor, in the Affairs of greateft importance, and fuch as concern the 
 State, comply much with the Sentiments of his Grand Vizir, and his Propolitions in 
 Council are as fo many definitive Sentences. 'Tis that which renders his Power fo abfo- 
 lute, that in all the Empires and Kingdoms of the World, there is not any chief Mini- 
 fter of State, whofe Authority can be parallePd to that of the Grand Vizin Whoever 
 comes to make him a Vifit, he riles not out of his Chair, either to give him a recepti- 
 on, or to conduct him out again, unlefs it be the Mufti, who is the principal Perfon 
 relating to the Law ( of Mahomet ) upon whofe accefs, the Grand Seignor himfelf ri- 
 fes from his Throne. But this is particularly worth our obfervation, That as it belongs 
 only to the Grand Vizir, to propofe all Affairs of importance, fo does it concern him 
 to be very careful, not to advance any thing that may be difpleafingtothe Grand Seig- 
 nor ■■> for if it mould fo happen, he gives immediate Order for the ftrangling of him, 
 without making him any anfwer at all, upon this Maxime of the Ottoman Court, that 
 there muft not be any thing propos'd to the Prince, which may give him any caule of 
 diflatisfadtion. 
 
 A Priviledge The Caimacan is the Captain, and Governour of the City of Confiantinople, lieute- 
 p articular to nant to the Grand Vizir, yet fo as not to have any Authority, but only in his /abfence* 
 the Caimacan. And then he performs all the functions of that important Charge j he has the abfolute 
 Command, and gives Audience to Ambaffadors. He is not fubjecf, as the other Baf- 
 fas are, to that rigorous neccifity of refigning his Head ■■> upon this account, that if he 
 does any thing, which may be difpleafing to the Grand Seignor, he lays the blame 
 thereof upon the Grand Vizir, from whom he receives his Orders. 
 
 4 
 
 The Baffa of the Sea is the Admiral, and Captain-General of the Naval Forces, The 
 Beys, Governours of the Maritime Provinces, and fuch as are oblig'd to maintain the 
 Grand Seignor's Galleys in good order, are to obey the Commands they receive from 
 him, and to go to Sea upon the firft advertilement they receive to that purpofe. 
 
 The number of The Janizary-Aga, whom the Turkj call Tengeri-Agafi, is the Colonel-General of 
 the real Jani- the Janizaries. This Charge is very confiderable, inafmuch as the Jurkifh Infantry, at 
 zarics. this time, does for the moft part pafs under the name of Janizaries, though fuch as are 
 really Janizaries, who derive their Inftitution from Ottoman the Firft, and their great 
 Priviledges from Amurath the Third, do not at -this day amount to a Body of above 
 five and twenty thoufand Men. They have excellent Regulations amongft themfelves, 
 
 and 
 
A Relation of the Grand Seignofs Seraguo. 5 
 
 and are diitributed into feveral Chambers, in the fpacious Lodgings, whereof they are 
 poflefs'd, whether it be at Conftantinople, or in other places. The order obferv'd there 
 is fo excellent in all things, and fo exactly maintain'd, that they live more like Religi- 
 ous Perfons, than Souldiers j and though they are not forbidden to marry, yet- it is 
 very feldom that they do it. The great Priviledges which they enjoy all over the Em- 
 pire, wherein they are fo highly refpeded, induce abundance of Perfons, meerly in 
 order to their exemption from the paying of Taxes, and their being difcharg'd from 
 publick Duties, to prevail the Officers, by Money, to v protect them, and make 
 thempafs for Janizaries. But they receive no Pay from the Prince, and all their ad- 
 vantage is reilrain'd to the enjoyment of thofe Priviledges, which indeed are great 
 enough. It is by this intermixture of the real Janizaries, with thofe who are admit- 
 ted by corruption, that the number- of them amounts at this day to above a hundred 
 thoufand •, and yet not accounting any but fuch as are effectively Janizaries, their Body 
 has fometimes been fo dreadful as that- they have unthron d the Ottoman Monarchs,and 
 chang'd the whole face of the Empire, of a fudden. 
 
 The Power of their Ago. is very great, and there is not any Perfoft can approach the tin gnat krl> 
 Prince, as he is permitted to do. For he may come into the Grand Seignor's prefence, viledgt of the 
 with his arms at abfolute liberty, and with a confident deportment, whereas all the A 8 a « 
 other Grandees of the Port, without any exception, even to the Grand Vizir himfelf, 
 dare not appear before him, otherwife than wit(i their arms crofs their bodies, and the 
 hands, one upon the other, on the breaft, as the mark of a profound fubmiffion. 
 
 The Beglerbeys are, in dignity, next the four firfl BaJJa's, and are as 'twere fo many 
 Soveraigns, in the general Governments of the Empire, whereof the Grand Seignor 
 bellows the Command on them. But in regard it is not *ny defign to fpeak of the 
 Government of Turkey, any further than is requifite for the Subject whereof I treat, 
 there is not any neceifity, that I fhould inform the Reader of the number of thofe Beg- 
 lerbeys, and it is enough, that I have nam'd the five principal ones, of whom I lfiall 
 have occafion to fpeak eliewhere. I (hall only add here, That thofe great Bafas have, 
 under them, a certain number of Sangiac-Beys, who are Governours of Sangiacs, or 
 particular Provinces, as the Sangiacbey of Salonica, or of Morea* 
 
 And whereas there will alfo be frequently mention'd fome others, under the Deno-" 
 minations of Spahis, Zaims and Chiaoux, we mull give a (hort account of thofe three 
 forts of Perfons. 
 
 The Spabis, who make up a Body of about fifteen thoufand Men, are a kind of 
 Knights, who would pafs for the Gentry or Nobility of the Country, and Hand very 
 much upon their Gallantry. They are maintain'd out of the Revenue of the Timars, 
 that is to fay, out of the Mannors, or Commanderies, which the Grand Seignor be- 
 llows on them, according to the recompence he would make them for their fervices. 
 ThoCe-Timars cannot be taken away from them, unlefs they be negligent in their duty, 
 which is, that they Ihould be in the Army, when the Grand Vizir is there in perfon. 
 Theft are the bappiefl Perfons in all the Ottoman Empire, and as it were petty Sove- 
 raigns, in the places where they command. 
 
 • 
 
 The Zaims differ not much from the Spabis y and, as the other, have the Command 
 and Revenues of certain Lands, or Fiefs, which the Grand Seignor bellows on them. 
 There is a very great number of them, over all the Empire, and they look on them- 
 felves, as the Lords and Barons of the Country. The Turhijh Cavalry confills of the 
 Zaims and the Spabis, and they know what number of Horfe they are to bring into the 
 F ield, according to the Revenue of their Timars. 
 
 The CbaoHx, or Cbiaoux-Bacbi, is the Chief of all the Cbaoux of the Empire, whole 
 imployment it is, to carry the Prince's Commands, to any part either within his Terri- 
 tories, or without, and te be fent upon Embalfies, though indeed they are but as fo 
 many Meffengers^ or Expreffes. 'Tis ordinarily into their cuftody that Prifoners of 
 Quality are committed, and they fuller them not to be out of their fight. 
 
 • 
 
 C B 2 ) And 
 
6 A Relation of the Grand Seignofs SePvAguo. 
 
 And thus you have an account of the principal Charges and Dignities of theEmpirei 
 all poflefs'd by Pertbns, taken out of the ran!; of the Icboghns. I now come to the 
 Officers of the Seraglio, and in regard thev are Eunuchs, on whom the Grand Seig- 
 nor-beftows the mott eminent Charges, and who, betides, have the Government of 
 the Icbnglans, 1 (hall follow the order of the things, in my placing of them here, be- 
 fore I fay ought of the (econd order or rank of tributary Children, or fuch as are ta- 
 ken in War, who are the Azamoglans. 
 
 The prodighm ^ tne mere are tw0 ranks. There are*fome white, who have en- 
 
 number oj Eu- dur'd only a limple caftration •, and there are black ones, who have all cut off, even 
 nuchs all over with the belly. Both forts of them are fevere, humourous and morofe, and their 
 the E*ft> Treatments are almoft infupportable to all thole who are under their Charge. There 
 is a prodigious number of them, as well in Conjiantinnple, as all over the Empire and 
 generally all over the Eaitem parts of the World, where there is hardly a private Per- 
 fon, having any thing of abilities, but keeps an Eunuch or two, as Sentinels over his 
 Obftrvations Women. And 'tis this that caufes fo great a commerce of Eunuchs in feveral parts of 
 upon this Sub- jf ia and Africl^, and in the tingle Kingdom of Culconda, where I chane'd to be in the 
 P$ year 1659, there were put off, of them, in that very year, about two and twenty 
 
 thoufand. It comes into my mind, that the Grand Mogors Ambatfador, in whole 
 Country, that Barbarifm is not fufTer'd, but the Eunuchs he makes ufe of are brought 
 out of other places, took me one day atide, to tell me, that he car'd not how foon he 
 rcturn'd into his Country, out of the fear he was in, left that Kingdom of Colconda 
 might fink into the ground, after fuch cruelties. Molt of the Fathers and Mothers, 
 who are extreamly poor, and have no love for their Children, and whom they are al- 
 io afraid that they cannot maintain, have no other ihift, upon the rirlt dearth of Provi- 
 iions, than to fell them to certain Merchants, who afterwards have them gelt, and 
 iornetimes make clear work, and cut off all. Some of thofe, who have not any thing 
 left," when they would urine, are fore'd to make ufe of a little Cane or Pipe, and to 
 put it to the bottom of the belly. And whereas few efcape after fo dangerous an ope- 
 ration, fuch are accordingly much dearer than the others, and they are fold in Ptrfia 
 and Turkey, at the rate of fix hundred Crowns \ when a hundred, or a hundred and 
 fifty, is the price of the ordinary Eunuchs. For the fupply therefore of all Turkey, 
 all Perfia, all the Indies, and all the Provinces of Africa, it may be eaiily judg'd, that 
 there mult come millions of them from feveral places. The Kingdom of Colcqnda, in 
 the Peninlula on this fide Ganges, and the Kingdoms of Ajfan, Botttan, Aracban, and 
 Pegu, on the other fide of it, afford a prodigious number of them. All thefe Eunuchs 
 are either white, or of duskith colour. The black Eunuchs, who are brought out of 
 Africa, much inferiour in point of number, areas I faid, much the dearer. The moll 
 deformed yield the greateft price, their extream uglinefs being look'd on as beauty in 
 their kind. A flat Nofe, a frightful Afpecf, a large Mouth, thick Lips, the Teeth 
 black, and Handing at a diitance one from another ( tor ordinarily the Moors have fair 
 Teeth ) are fo many advantages to the Merchants who fell them. The Seraglio at Con- 
 jiantinople is full ot thefe two forts of Eunuchs. The black are defign'd for the cuitody 
 of the Apartment, where the Women are, and lent to Court by the BaJJa's of Grand' 
 Cain. The white, who .are fomewhat lefs lavage, and have been educated with lomc 
 care, are for the Grand Seignor's own Apartment. 
 
 The four principal Eunuchs, who approach the Prince's Perfbn, are the Hazodaba- 
 cbi, the Cbajnadarbacbi, the Kilargibacbi, and the Sarai-Agafi, who have for their Su- 
 peripur, the Capi-Aga, who has the fuperintendency of all the Chambers of the Icbog- 
 lans. They ordinarily fucceed one the ether, that is to fay, the Sarai-Agafi fucceeds 
 the Kilargibacbi i the Kilargibacbi fucceeds the Clyafnadarbacbi and the lait named fuc- 
 ceeds the Hazodabacbi i and in fine, the Hazodabacbi fucceeds the Capi-Aga, who is 
 always of the longelt ltanding in fervice of the white Eunuchs. 
 
 The noble Ad- The Capi-Aga, or Capou-Agafi, is as it were the Grand Matter of the Seraglio, he is 
 vantages of the the principal in dignity and repute, of all the white Eunuchs> and he is always near the 
 A 8 a « Grand Seignor's Perfon, where-ever he is. JHe is the Perfbn who introduces AmbafTa- 
 
 dors to Audience, and all great Affairs palling through his hands, ere they come into 
 thofe of the Prince, his Charge renders him neceffary to all others, and procures him 
 
 many 
 
 The principal 
 Charges of the 
 Seraglio. 
 
A Relation of the Grand Seignor's Seraglio. 
 
 many rich Prefents. AH thofe Perfons alfo, who are to make any Prefent to the Grand 
 Seignor, muft addrefs themfelves to the Capi-Aga, in order to their being prefented «o 
 his Highnefs, of which he makes great Advantages. No Man can enter into the^Em- 
 perour's Apartment, nor get out of it, without his Order i and when the Grand^i^ir 
 would fpeak to him, 'tis the Cafi-Agas place, to take and prefent him to his High- 
 nefs. Whether it be by night, or by day, if there happen fome pretiing Affair,whercof 
 the Vizir would give the Grand Seignor immediate notice in writing, the Capi-Ag4 
 receives it from him, and brings him the anfwcr thereto. He wears hisTurbant in the 
 Seraglio, and rides up and down on Horfe-back, by a Priviledge particularly annexed 
 to his Charge. He accompanies the Grand Seignor even into the Apartment of the 
 SultanefTes > but he ftays at the door, as having no Command in that place. When he 
 leaves the Seraglio, upon his being difmifs'd from his Charge, which very feldom hap- 
 pens, he cannot beaBaJfa. As to his Table, all is at the Prince's Charge, and he has, 
 over and above, ten Sultanines a day, which amount to iixty Livers, French Money. 
 There have been fome Capi-Agas, who have dy'd worth two millions, all which re- 
 turn'd into the Grand Seignor's Coffers. The c^ef , of the white Eunuchs is attended 
 by four others, who, next to him, have the principal Charges of the Grand Seignor's 
 Quarter. 
 
 The Hazodabacbi, is, as it were, the Lord High-Chamberlain, having under his 
 Charge the forty Pages of the Chamber, who ordinarily approach the Grand Seignor's 
 Perfbn. 
 
 The Serai-Agafi has the general Superintendency of all the Chambers of the Grand 
 Seignor's Quarter, as to what relates to Embellifhment, and the neceflary Reparations. 
 He has a particular infpection over the Scferli Odafa which is the Chamber of the Pa- 
 ges, who are to look after the Grand Seignor's Linnen, and attend him in his Progrefc 
 fes. 'Tis incumbent alfo upon him to give Order for their Cloaths, and whatever elfe 
 they ftand in need of: AncTJiis Charge does fomewhat refemble that of Captain of the 
 Louver~CajUe, in France, fince it is his work,- generally to make proviCon for whatever 
 may contribute to the decency and well-ordering of that great Palace, He has for his 
 AiMant, or Lievtenant, the Seraikgt-Odaft, who is alfo an Eunuch, whole imploy- 
 ment it is, to have the Tapiftry and Carpets, which are fpread upon the Floors, in the 
 Halls and Lodgings of the Seraglio, chang'd every fix months. 
 
 The Haznadar, or Chaznadar-Bacbi, is the chief Intendant of theTreaiury, and has 
 the infpection of the conduct and deportment of the Pages of that Chamber. Which is 
 not to be understood of the Treafury, defign'd for the exigencies of the State, and the 
 Ordinary Pay of the Souldiery, and whereof the Grand Vizir, and the three r tefierdan ) 
 or Treafurers-General have the Keys, and Intendency. But the Treafury I here fpeak 
 of, is the place, where they keep the Jewels of the Crown, and all the other Rarities, 
 and the wealth gather'd together, from Father to Son, by the Ottoman Princes j which 
 I fhall endeavour to lay down diftinctly, before the Pleader's project, in my Relation, 
 when I come to open unto him both the Treafuries. However it is to be obferv'd, 
 that the Chaznadar-Bacbi has only, the honorary title of Chief of the Treafury, nay, 
 that he cannot lb much as enter into it, fince that in the Reign of Sultan Amurat, the 
 Pages of the Treafury having corriplain'd to the Grand Seignor of the ill conduct of 
 that Eunuch, he, upon their Petition*, order'd, that the Cbaznadar-bacbi mould no 
 longer have any Command there, and that the Cbaznakgt-odafi mould for the future 
 exercite his Charge, without depriving him of the title thereof. But in regard the 
 Cbaznadar-bacbi is the better known, and the more pronounceable Name, I lhall al- 
 ways make ufe of it, inftead of the other •, and we muft not omit giving you this re- 
 mark, That when the Chief, or Overfeer, of the Treafury, is remov'd from his Charge, 
 he is made a Bajfa. Upon this counterchanging of thefe two Officers of the Seraglio, 
 it is to be obferv'd, That, amongft all the Mabumetan Princes, Turk{, Ferfians^ Indians^ 
 and of what Sect Ibever they may be o£ what has been order'd and eftablith'd in the 
 Reign of one Prince, is never revok'd by his Succeffor : And under the lame Sultan* 
 Amarat, the Capou-Agafi having committed fome little impertinence , whereat the 
 Grand Seignor took offence, he excluded, thence forwards, all the Capou-Agafts, who 
 Ihould be remov'd out of the Seraglio, from the peiviledge of coming into a capacity to 
 
 fee 
 
 ♦ 
 
8 A Relation oftbe Grand Seignors Seraglio. 
 
 be made Bajfas. I (hall not think it much to alledge, upon this particular, another 
 example of that Maxime, of which I was an eye-witnefs my felf, in the King of Per- 
 fia's Court. 'Twas in the Reign of Scbacb Abas., againft whom fome Grandees of the 
 CoitfPhad enter'd into a Confpiracy, and attempted to take away the King's Life, yet 
 with a defign to have put his Son into the Throne. Ahout Two or Three in the after- 
 noon, when every one in Perfta is retir'd to the Haram, which is the Appartment of the 
 Women, the Confpirators fent, to the Palaces, twenty Men well arm'd, with Order, 
 firft, to put to the Sword all they fhould find at the Gates, which ordinarily are guard- 
 ed only by two or three Men, armed with a ma fly Club, and afterwards to go and 
 murther the King himfelfin the Haram, which would be but poorly defended by black 
 and white Eunuchs, who are poor Souldiers. But the intended blow of the Confpira- 
 tors was prevented, and the chief Porter, a Perfon accounted one of the moft valiant of 
 his time, being in his Station, with two of his Servants, Georgians by Country, that is 
 to fay, valiant, as all thofe People are, fell upon the Traitors with his Cuttelas, and 
 beat them back fo fmartly, that they thought it the beft way to run for't. The King 
 haying been inform'd of that action, *>rder'd him to be brought into his Prefence, and 
 after he had commended him, made this eltablilhment, That the Charge "of chief Por«- 
 ter, fhould ever continue in his F amily, from Father to Son. He alfo commanded the 
 Keeper of the Archives, or Records, to infert that action into the Hiilory, and wilh'd 
 that his own Name might be dafh'd out of it, and all that had been done during his 
 Reign, if any of his Succeffors attempted to change any thing of his Will, and deprive 
 the Houfe of the Faithful Georgian of that Charge. 
 
 The Kilargi-bachi is the chief Governour of the Pages of the if;/<*r,wbich is the place, 
 where they keep all the exquifite Drinks for the Grand Seignor's own drinking. It is 
 a kind of Cup-Bearers Office, and the Kifargi-bacbi, a kind of Cup-Bearer ■■, and he is 
 alio made a BaJJa y upon his removal from the Charge of Kilargi-bachi. He is moreover 
 the Chief of all the Akggis, who are the Cooks and Confectioners, lince no Body can 
 have any entrance into thofe Offices, but by his Order •, and he has under his cuftody 
 all the Plate, which is for the peculiar fervice of the Grand Seignor. This Officer has 
 for his Subftitute the Kilarkgtodafu Now having told you, that, upon the refignation 
 of his Charge, he is made a Bajfa, it were not amifs to advertife you further, That 
 they who are removM out of the Seraglio, in order to their being Baffas, ought to have 
 been of the number of the forty Pages of the Chamber, and to have pafs'd through one 
 of thefe fix Charges, of Cbafnakgtodafi, and of Kilark$tbdafi y of whom I have fpoken al- 
 ready, of Vogangibacbiy of the Chokadar, of the Seligdar 3 and of the Rikgbdar> of 
 whom I (hall difcourfe anon. Otherwife, they can only be Beys, or Zaims, or Spbais^ 
 or at moft, but Cafigibachis y by the Grand Seignor's lingular favour. The cafe is the 
 fame with the Gugombacbi, who is the fecond Perfon of the Office of the Treafury, as 
 alfo with the Anatylar-Agafiy who is the third. If thefe People remove out of the Se- 
 raglio, before they are admitted into the number of the Forty Pages of the Chamber, 
 they have only a certain Pay, more or lefs, the higheft whereof amounts not to above 
 two hundred Afpcrs. I proceed to the other Officers of the Seraglio, of whom there 
 will be fbme mention made in my Relation. 
 
 The Dogangi-bachi is the Grand Falconer, and his Charge makes him a confidera- 
 ble Perfon about the Prince. 
 
 The Cbokadar is he who carries the Royal Robe, called the Ciamberlttc, the fame Of- 
 ficer, which the French call Portmanteau. * 
 
 The Rikabdar is he who holds the Stirrup, when the Grand Seignor gets on Horfe- 
 back. 
 
 The Seligdar is the firft of the Pages of the Chamber => he carries the Grand Seig- 
 nor's Sword upon days of Ceremony, and they ordinarily advance to that Charge one 
 of the handfbmeft Pages. 
 
 The Hammangibacbi is the chief Overfeer of the Bath. When he leaves the Seraglio, 
 as alfo when the Kamachirbachi y who is the chiefeft of the Pages of Seferli, does 
 fo i their Pay is an hundred Afpers a day and if they are in favour, it may amount 
 to an hundred and fifty. It is to be obferv'd in the general, that when any one of 
 the Forty Pages of the Chamber is remov'd, the vacancy is fupply'd fometimes out of 
 the Treafury, fometimes out of the Kilar, and fometimes out of the Seferti y and in 
 that they take their turns. They always take out the moft Ancient and they who 
 were next to them come into their places. How that is done, we (hall take occafion 
 to explicate more plainly in the Chapter of the Treafury. The 
 
A Relation of the Grand Seignor's Seraglio. 9 
 
 Hie Cbiamcibacbi is the grand', Laundry-man, or the Principal of thofe, who wafh 
 and order the Grand Seignor's Linnen. 
 
 ThcGiritbey is the chief Director of thofe who are exercis'd in (hooting t w4th the 
 Bowe, and calling the Dart.Thefe two Exercifes are much practis'd every Friday , in a 
 place of the Seraglio, appointed for that Divertifement.Thus have you,in few words, an 
 account of whatever relates to the principal Charges of the Seraglio, poflefs'd by thofe 
 who have pafs'd through the Chambers of the Ichoglans. 
 
 The Blacky or Negro-Eunuchs, of whom I have but a word more to fay, additional- 
 ly to what I have intimated before, are appointed to guard the Appartment of the 
 Women, and they make choice, for that Office, of the moft deform'd and the moft 
 JEfopical, that can be found. They are all cut even with the belly, ever fince the time 
 of Solyman the Second, who being one day in the fields, and feeing a Gelding offer- 
 in^ to' leap a Mare, inferr'd thence, that the Eunnchs, who kept his Wives, might 
 likewife endeavour to fatisfie their paffionss foifcwhich he bethought himfelf of a pre- 
 fent remedy, by ordering them to have all cut off ; and his Succeflbrs have fince ob- 
 ferv'd that Rule. There is a great number of thofe Negro-Eunuchs, and they have 
 their variety of Chambers, and their Regulations, as the whice ones have. I fay no- 
 thing here of their different Employments, and the Reader will find, in the Chapter, 
 concerning the Appartment of the Women, all can be known, that's certain upon that 
 Subject. 
 
 The Kiflar-Agafi, or, as others name him, the Kuezer-Agafi,^ which is as much, in the credit and 
 our Language, as to fay, the Guardian of the Virgins, is the chiefeft of all the Negro- wealth of the 
 Eunuchs, and is of equal authority and credit with the Capi-Aga, who is the Supreme Ki , fla [" Aga f 5 
 of the white Eunuchs. The former is the Overfeer of the Appartment of the Wo- jftjgjA 
 men, has the Keys of the Doors in his cuftody, and has accefs to the Emperor when t ^ mm( n : , 
 he pleafes himfelf. The charge he is polfefs'd of brings him in Prefents from all parts \ 
 and there are not any fuch made to the SultannefTes, by the Bajfas, and other Per- 
 fons, who ftand in need of their favour, in reference to the Sultan, but there comes 
 along with it one to himfelf, which makes him one of the richeft and moft confidera- 
 ble Officers, belonging to the Seraglio, 
 
 I come now to the Azamoglans, who make the fecond Order of young Lads, where- 
 with the Seraglio is replenifti'd, and out of whofe number they take fuch as are de- 
 fign'd for mean Officers, of whom Ilhall give you the Lift. 
 
 The Azamoglans, as well as the Ichoglans, are, as I faid before, Tributary Children, 
 taken away from the Chriftians, or made Captives, by Sea, or Land, They make 
 choice of the hand fomeft, the belt ftiap'd, and moft robuft, for the Seraglio, and they 
 have neither wages nor allowances of any profit, unlefs they be advanc'd to fome fmall 
 Employments. Nor can they attain thofe, till after many years Services, and. what is 
 then allow'd them does not amount to above four Afpers and a half per diem. As for 
 thofe who are brought up in other places, under the fimple denomination of Azamo- 
 glans, and are not receiv'd into the Seraglio at Conjtantinople, their fortune can amount 
 no higher, than to become Zanizaries. 
 
 When thele young Boys are brought up to Conftanttnople, the firft diftribution which 
 is made of them is into the Seraglio's, or Royal Houfes of the Grand Seignor : there 
 are fome of them left in the City, to be put to Trades ; and others are fent to Sea, to 
 ftrve for Seamen, and (b gain experience in Navigation, by which means they capaci- 
 tate themfelves for fome Employments. But to confine our difcourfe to the Azamo- 
 glans receiv'd into the great Seraglio, they are employ 'd in feveral Offices, and fome 
 of them are made Bojlangis, fome Capigis, ComeAtagif, fome HalvagU, and fome, BaU 
 tagif h which terms I (hall explicate to the Reader in as few words as I can. 
 
 The Bofiatgis are t-hey who are employ'd in the Gardens of the Seraglio, out of 
 whofe number they take out thofe who are to row in the Grand Seignor's Brigantines, 
 when he has a mind to divert himfelf in fiftiing, or take the air upon the Canal. They, 
 
 who 
 
i o A Relation of the Grand Seignors Seraglio 
 
 who thus ferve in the Brigantines, and row on the right hand, may be advanc'd to 
 the charge of Boflangi-Bacbi, which is one of the moft coufiderable places of the Sera- 
 glio : But they who row on the left hand, are capable only of the mean Employ- 
 ments,» which are beftow'd in the Gardens. If it happen that any one of them break 
 his Oar, *by itrength of rowing, in the Grand Seignor's pretence, his Highnefs immc- 
 diately orders him a gratuity of fifty Crowns i and there is alfo a certain distribution 
 made of fome Money to the others, as the Grand Seignor takes his diverfion in the 
 Brigantine. Their greatelt Pay, after they have ferved fome years, is feven Afpers 
 and a half per diem, befidcs clothing and diet, which they all equally have. 
 
 Eelangi-baehi The Bnjlangi-Baebi has the general Intendency or Overfight of all the Grand Seig- 
 bleft^Clw nor ' S hardens, as we ^ tn0 ^ e 0I ~ Conflantinople as thofe of the neighbouring Villages, 
 of the Port. auc ^ cornrnan ds above ten thoufand Bnjlangis, who are employ'd in the culture of 
 them. Though he be taken out of the meaneft rank of the Azamoglans, yet his pow- 
 er is very great, and his Employment one of the nobleft and moft confiderable about 
 the Court. That gives him accefs to^the Prince's Perfon, to whom he may (peak fa- 
 miliarly . when he carries him by Sea ■> for he has his Seat at the Helm of the Brigantine, 
 wherein the Grand Seignor is, who moft commonly makes ufe of him, to carry his 
 Orders to fome Bajjfa, when he would have his Head. All the Grandees of the Port 
 ftand in awe of him, and endeavour to gain his affection by their Prefents, becaufe it 
 lies in his power, to do them either good or bad Offices about the Prince, whom he 
 can difpofe as he pleafes, when he has him abroad upon the Water. For being as 
 'twere at-his elbow, and having the whip of the Rudder in his hand, with the privi- 
 lege of fitting in his prefence, that he may the more ealily govern it, he has then the 
 opportunity to entertain him with affairs of State, and the conduct of the B^'/, and 
 anfwerably to his paiTion, or intereft, clearly to acquaint him how things pais, or turn 
 and difguife them as he pleafes. in fine, if he be highly in favour, he may obtain one 
 of the great Governments, and become Bajfa of Buda, Babylon, or Cairo } nay haply 
 Grand Vizir, which is the moft eminent Charge of the Empire. 
 
 The Capigis are the Porters or Keepers of the Gates of the Seraglio, that is to fay, of 
 the firft and fecond Courts for the third Gate, which gives entrance into the inner 
 Seraglio, is kept by Eunuchs. The Chief of the CapigU is call'd Capgi-bacbi, who has 
 under him other Officers, bearing the fame Name •, and whom the Grand Seignor 
 makes ufe of, to carry his Orders. The Capi-Aga is above all. 
 
 The AttagU are the Cooks of the Seraglio, over whom as well as over the Hahagk, 
 the Kilargi-bacbi has full Power. Every Kitchin has its Attagi-bacbi, that is to fay, its 
 chief Director, or Mafter-Cook. And the Montbak^Emin is the Intendant or Overfeer, 
 who fupplies the Kitchins with all that is neceffary, taking care alfo for the Tables of 
 the Ambaffadors, according to the Orders he has receiv'd from the Grand Vizir. 
 
 i 
 
 The Halvagu are the Confectioners, of whom I fhall have occafion to fpeak more at 
 large elfewhere. They give alfo the fame Name to thofe who ferve the Grandees of 
 the Seraglio, and are pennitted to go out of it and into it, when they pleafe. * 
 
 The BaltagU are a robuft fort of People, imploy'd in the carrying of Burthens, as 
 Porters, and Cleavers of Wood are amongft us. Baltagi implies properly a Labouring 
 Man, who makes ufe of the Wedge. 
 
 The Hafteler-Agafi is the Overfeer of the Infirmary, who obferves what comes in, 
 and what goes out, and eipeciahy that there be no Wine brought in. 
 
 I (hall have occafion alfo, in my Relation, to fpeak of two others, to wit, .the 
 Emirahour-bacbi^ and the Ekpteggi-bachi, who are two Officers belonging to the Sultan, 
 but have their Habitations out of the Seraglio. 
 
 The Emirabour-bacbi is the great Gentleman-Ufher, who goes before the Grand 
 Seignor, when he appears in publick, and in all Ceremonies. 
 
 The 
 
A Relation of the Grand Seignor'f Seraglio. i i 
 
 The Ekpicrgi-bacbi is the Mafter-Bakcr, who has the over-fight, and gives direction 
 for the Baking of all the Bread that is eaten in the Seraglio. Thefe two Imployments 
 are-not beitow'd on any of thofe who have their abode within the Seraglio, but to 
 Pcrfons who live out of it, but have the liberty of ingrefs into it, egrefs out of it, at 
 any time. 
 
 To be ftiort, I fhall have occafion to (peak of the Caragi-hachi, and of the Cham 01 
 the lefTer Tartary, and I have fo'me curious Obfervations to make upon both of 
 them. 
 
 The Caragi-hachi is the Chief of thofe, who collect the Tributes, and it is of him, the Oiconomy 
 as alfo of the Gemmerou-bacbi, or grand Farmer of the Cuftoms, and of the Bazarcan- c/f^Partizans, 
 hacbi, or Chief amongft the Merchants, that the Grand Seignor makes ufe of, to make ° r vfl 61 ^ f 
 Advancements, when he wants Money, and that there is not any in the Publick Trea- * ^ on ® S ° 
 fury, he being unwilling that they mould med4Je with the Secret Treafury. They 
 muft of neceffity rind it out, and it is no hard matter for them to do, in regard that 
 of all the Tributes, Cuftoms, and other Impolitions due to the Grand Seignor, there 
 is not any thing pay'd till the end of the Year, and thefe Officers oblige Men to the 
 payment thereof, at the beginning of it. 
 
 All forts of Perfons, what Religion foever they are o£ except the Mahumeiah, are 
 obliged to pay the Tribute without any exception, from the time of their fettling in 
 the Empire, and having attain'd the fixteenth year of their Age. And this Tribute, 
 or Poll-Money, amounts to five hundred and fifty old Afters, which neither rife nor 
 fall, but always keep at the fame rate of eighty, to a Piaftro, which, in the French 
 Money, and confequently with little difference in ours, amounts to five Crowns and 
 {. All other Cbrijiians who come into the Empire, upon the fcore of Trade, or Bufi- 
 nefs, though 'twere but for one day, are fore'd to pay, at the firft City where they ar- 
 rive. The forreign Greeks-, fuch as they from Mufcovy or other places, pay three hun- 
 dred and fifty Afters '> but the Armenians, who come from Yerfia, Georgia, Mingrelia, 
 and other Countreys, are tax'd but at three hundred. As to the Cbriftians, whom 
 they call Franguis, they pay nothing > and that has given much trouble to the Ambaf- 
 fadors of EUrope, efpccially to the French AmbafTador, there being more French that 
 are Inhabitants in Turkey, than there are of any other Nation. Ana yet though the 
 fttriu make their Year to confift but of twelve Moons, ours being near twelve and a 
 half, they make the Tributaries pay but for twelve Moons yet in requital , and that 
 nothing may be loft, they make them pay that Tribute double, every three and thirti- 
 eth year , and are very frugal Husbands for the benefit and advantage of their 
 Mafter. 
 
 There are but two Princes in the World that are known by the Name of Cham, to The policy of the 
 wit, the Emperour of great Tartary, and the King of the little Tartary, a Vaffal to the ^»rt,to |«; the 
 Ottoman Monarchs. I conceive my felf oblig'd, to give the Reader fome information /^^artary 
 of the prefent condition of the latter. When the Cham of the lefler Tartary enters up-^^ # 
 on the Government, he comes to take his Oath of Fidelity to the Grand Seignor, and 
 the Tt&'kj look upon him no otherwife than as a Govemour of a Province, or at moll, 
 but as a VafTal-Prince. But thole of his own Countrey, the Mufcovites, the Poles, the 
 Georgians, the MingrelUns, and the other Nations bordering upon him, treat him as a 
 King, when they write to him. The Grand Seignor ufes much Policy towards the 
 Cham, left he Ihould revolt from him, and render himfelf more powerful than he is, 
 by Alliances with the neighbouring Princes. For it is to be obferv'd, That the leffer 
 Tartary, whereof the City Caffa, near the Cimerian Streight, is the Metropolis, is not 
 a Countrey fubdu'd by the Arms of the Ottomans. The ancient Kings of it did only- 
 put themfelves under the Grand Seigncr's protection, who receiv'd them into it, upon 
 condition, that when the Father dy'd, his Son, or the next of kin, his Succeffor, was 
 not to enter upon the Government, till he had receiv'd the Inveftiture from the Port, 
 and taken the Oath of Fidelity to the Grand Seignor, obliging himfelf to come to him, 
 upon the firft Orders to that purpofe. The Grand Seignor promis'd in requital, that 
 he would not eftablifti any other than what were of their race, to command in the lef- 
 fer Tartary, And whereas there are two branches of that Family, he keeps one of 
 
 ( G ) them 
 
12 A Relation of the Grand Seignors Se r a c lio. 
 
 them always baiilli'd, in thelfland p£RWe/, while the other governs. But if, after 
 fifteen or twenty years, there fhould be any fufpition ct this latter Family's having a 
 deiign, to render it felf ablolute, he fends for the Cham and his Children, when he 
 has any, and lending them to Rhodes, brings thence him who was there in exile, and 
 orders him to reign in his turn, for fome years. 1 he form of his Oath you will rind 
 in the lixth Chapter of my Pvelation, where I (peak of the Hall of Audience, and the 
 manner, in which that Prince is there rcceiv'd. 
 
 tht principsl I have only now fomewhat to fay of the Monfti, , the Cadilefqmr, and the Cadis 
 Dignities of and the others relating to the Law, which 1 (hall do in few words. Only let it be 
 llf'Tvp 0 * ^ ere °^^ erv '^ hithe general, That, according to the perfwalion of the Turks, the Civil 
 Laws are part of their Religion, and that having been given them by their Prophet, 
 they are deriv'd from God, and require an implicite obedience. 'Tis by this courfe, 
 that they are. kept within their duty, and that they obey the Laws, as much out of a 
 principle of Religion and Confcience t , as out of the fear of chaftifement \ and in that 
 they do not much recede from our Chrijiian Maximes. The Motif tis and the Cadis 
 pafs therefore indifferently under the Name of Perfons well skill'd in the Law, as if 
 we (hould reduce our Divines and our Civil l awyers into the lame Clafs, and in civil 
 and criminal Cauies the Monfti is often confulted. 
 
 The Monfti is the honourary Chief of the Law all over the Empire, and accounted 
 to be the Interpreter of the Alchoran. 1 fpeak of the grand Monfti o{Conjtantinople,whu 
 is the moft elkem'd, and the principal of all. For there are feveral other's of them in. 
 Turkey, over whom he has no more jurifdidtion, than he has over the Imans.px Prielts i 
 every one of them fubmitting themfelves only to the Magiftrate, and there being no 
 Ecclefiaftical Superiority amongft them. That hinders not but that the Grand Moufti 
 is honour'd by all the reft, and in great veneration among the Turks. The Grand 
 Seignor never beftows that Dignity, but upon a Perfon of great abilities, and great in- 
 tegrity j he often confults him in the Affairs of greateft importance ; he always follows 
 his Directions, and he is the only Perfon in the World, at whofe approach he rifes up 
 to receive him. ! 
 
 The Cadilefquers follow the Moufti, and are Judges-Advocates of the Militia, the 
 Soufdiers having this Priviledge, That they are judg'd only by them i whence they al- 
 io call them, Judges of the Armies. There are but two of them all over the Empire, 
 the Cadilefquer of Romania, and the Cadilefqmr of Natolia, who are in higheft efteem 
 next to the Monfti, and have their Seats in the Divan, immediately next to the 
 Grand Viziri 
 
 The MoUaf), or Moula-Cadis, are the Judges of great Cities, who receive their Com- 
 miflions from the Cadilefquers, to whom there may be an Appeal made from their Sen- 
 tence, in civil Concerns only i for as to the criminal part, the Caufe is foon decided, 
 and the leaft Judge condemns to death without any Appeal. 
 
 The Cadis are under the MoHah, and ought to be well vers'd in the Laws and Cu- 
 ftoms of the Countrey. They have alfo under them the Naips, who adminifter Jufticc 
 in the Villages, and that is done with much expedition, without the help of Proctors, 
 or Advocates* 
 
 The Imans, or Ematms, are the Priefts of the Turks, an< ^ 35 ' twere the Parfons of 
 their Mofqueys, where they take care that all things be done in order, and at the times 
 appointed. 
 
 The Hogiaf are the Doctors of the Law,and as it were the Regents, and Inftrudtors 
 of Youth. 
 
 The Sheiks are to them, inftead of Preachers , and they make publick Exhor- 
 tations. 
 
 The 
 
A Relation of the Grand Seignors Seraglio, 
 
 The Muezims are they, who cry upon the Towers of the Mofquey, to call the Peo- 
 ple together at the hour of Prayer j theTar^ not ufing any Bells, not the Cbrijtians 
 in the Levant. a 
 
 uJ d i /I a A d i 1 1 Q. \3 ' f 
 
 The Vervit are Religious Men, among the Turfy, who live poorly, and indeed the 
 very word fignifies poor. They are for the moft part ridieuloufly cloath'd, and all, ge- 
 nerally, great Hypocrites. 
 
 rc 2 j of 
 
O F 
 
 THE DIFFERENT SPECIES 
 
 Gold and Silver-Coins, 
 
 And the foall 
 
 MONEY 
 
 Now current in 
 
 TURKEY. 
 
 Together 
 
 With the Hiftory of the TRADE in Five 
 Sols Pieces (French Mo n e y) and the 
 Abolition of it. 
 
 what Money J^TB 1 ""^ Here are but two Species of Gold-Coins current all over the 'Turklfh 
 current in Tur- r * Empire the one is the proper Countrey Money, the other comes 
 
 ey * out of Forein parts. The former is the Scherif, otherwife called 
 
 Sequin, or Sultanine \ and that kind of Gold is worth at the pre- 
 fent fix Franks, French Money, though heretofore it yielded but 
 rive Franks, nay came ft low as four. 
 
 the Gold The Scberiffs come from Egypt, aud Cairo is the only City of the Empire, where 
 
 brought to Cz\. Gold is coin'd. That Gold is brought out of the Kingdom of the Abyftnes, an.d 
 there ^ s IS t ^ ie manner h° w lt ls brought to Cairo. The quantity is not the fame every 
 
 year, and when the palTages are (hut up, whether by War, or by extraordinary Rains, 
 whereby the Fields are overflown,, there comes but little Gold into Egypt, during that 
 time. As (bon as thofe obftrudtions are taken away, and that there is a freedom of 
 Commerce, you lhall fee arriving at Cairo, nay at Alexandria too, feveral Abyfwes y 
 who bring in, one man, two pounds, another four, every one more or left, according 
 to his abilities. Thofe poor People run a thoufand rifques in their Travels, and "'tis 
 almoft a miracle, how they bring them to a period. Some of them are of that Coun- 
 try, whence the Queen of Sbeba came, and which is now call'd the Kingdom of Sa- 
 bour. Others come from places at a greater diltance, and they have fometimes fifteen 
 days journeys to make, and cannot meet with any waters to drink , but what are cor- 
 rupt, and deltru&ive to health : which I found but too true my felf , when I crofs'd 
 the Defarts of Arabia, If by chance they come to fome Cottage or Hut, where they 
 
 have 
 
A Relation of the Grand Seignors Seraglio. 15 
 
 have kill'd an Elephant, it is a place for them to feaft in. This confider'd, we need 
 not wonder at the (hort lives of thofe miferable people, whofe bodies are deftroy'd iri 
 thofe Voyages,and who for the moft part do not exceed forty year* of age.The cafe is the 
 fame with thofe, who trade with the Portuguefes, on the Coafts of Melinda andMo- 
 zambico, the corrupt waters they are fore'd to drink in their way make them hydropi- 
 cal at five and twenty years at age, and generally, all the feveral people* of the King- 
 dom of Sabour, have the right Leg fwell'd, and twice as big as the left, and feldom 
 exceed rive and thirty years. 
 
 Tis a miraculous thing to fee the fidelity wherewith thofe poor Abyjpnes demean i%t finctrity of 
 themfelves in trading, as well thofe of the Southern parts, who are Christians, as thofe the Abyflines. 
 uf the North, who border upon Egypt, and are Mahumetans. For after they have 
 taken the Commodities they like for the Gold they have brought, if the Merchant they 
 deal with will fupply them with any thing further, to be paid at their return, and up- 
 on their own words, he is fure enough of it, and need not break his fleep for it. For 
 if it happen that one of thefe Abyfjines, who is a Debtor, Ihould die by the way, 
 fome of his Relations, or Friends, whom he acquaints with his affairs, brings the 
 Gold at the next return, for the Commodity which had been taken up •, and it could 
 never hitherto be found, that any Merchant could complain, that ever he had loft 
 ought by any one of them. All that is to be fear'd, is, that they (hould fall into the 
 hands of their Enemies, who rob, and kill them, and particularly on the South-fide, 
 there being lefs danger, towards the North. 
 
 The foreign Coins of Gold in Turtyy are the Vacates of Germany, Hotiand,Hungary y 
 and Venice. They are very much fought after, and they arechang'd, at fix Livers and 
 a half, and fometimes at fix Livers and fifteen Sols » and that is done in order to the. 
 fending of them to the Indies, where they drive a great Trade with them, as I (hall 
 make it appear, in my Relations of the Levant. Sometime fincc there has been fome 
 abatement made in the Vacates of Venice, upon a difcovery of their not being of fo 
 good an alloy, as thofe of Germany, 
 
 There will be often mention made of Purfes, in that Relation of the Seraglio. A 
 Purfe implies as much as the fum of five hundred Crowns, and it is of thofe Purfes 
 that the Grand Seignor makes his ordinary Prefents. But a Purfe of Gold, wherewith 
 he regales his Sultaneffes, and his peculiar Favourites, amounts to fifteen thoufand Se- 
 quins, or thirty thoufand Crowns. A Kize is alfo a bag of fifteen thoufand Va- 
 cates. 
 
 In all the Ottoman Empire, there is not any Money of Copper to be feen, and the 
 Species current there mult be either of Silver or Gold. True it is, that there are fome 
 pieces of Silver taken there, of a very bafe alloy, efpecially the Roup, which are quar- 
 ter-Ryals, coin'd in Poland* and with the affiftance of the Jevps, the Kajfas, in their 
 feveral Governments, counterfeit certain foreign Coins, which are all much different 
 from thofe which they are intended to imitate. 
 
 The cafe is the fame as to Silver-Coins in 7«r%y,as it is with thofe of Gold. There 
 are fome coin'd in the Countrey, as the After, and the Paraft } which are the leaft of 
 all. And there are fome forreign Moneys, as the Spanijh Ryal, and the Rix-dollars of 
 Germany and Holland. 
 
 An After is the leaft of all the Moneys, which heretofore was worth eight Veniers, 
 French Money, that is about j of iThe Englifh Penny, as being of good Silver, and the 
 value fet upon them was after the rate of 80, for the Crown-piece. But in the more 
 remote Provinces, the Bajfa's, and the Jews caufe fuch an abundance of counterfeit 
 ones to be made, that at prefent, a Crown-piece will yield one hundred and twenty 
 Afters, 
 
 A Parafi is another kind of fmall Money, which is worth four Afters, and coin'd 
 at Cairo. 
 
 Grocht 
 
16 A Relation of the Grand Seignor's Seraglio. 
 
 Groche is the Crown, or Spanijh Ryal, otherwife called the Piece of eight. 
 Kara*Groche is the Rtx~dollar of Germany. 
 
 Afelani is the Rix-dollar, mark'd with the Lyon of Holland. After which follow 
 the Pieces of four Ryals, of two Ryals, and of one Ryal , and heretofore the Pieces 
 of five ■ Sols-Drench Money, wherewith there was a great Trade driven in Turkey. 'Tis 
 a thing not well known to all, and therefore the Hiftory thereof will haply not be un- 
 pleafant to the Pveader. 
 
 YtTriedrl- A certain Merchant of Marfeilles, without any fore-thought defign, fent as many 
 ten in the five Pieces of five Sols, newly come out of the Mint, as amounted to the fum of two, or 
 Sob-pieces. three hundred Crowns, amongft fome other Pieces of Silver-Coins, to buy Silks. The 
 Turk? found thofe little Pieces fo pretty and fo beautiful, and were at the firft fo taken 
 therewith, that they thought them to be the eighth parts of a Ryal, and were content 
 to allow a Crown, for every eight of them. The Fa&or, perceiving it, writ to Mar- 
 feillcs, whence he receiv'd a very great fum in that Money, and gain'd very much 
 thereby. If the French could have contented themfelves with that honeft profit, the 
 commerce of thofe Pieces, which was quafh'd by the excetTwe frauds committed in the 
 management of it, might have continued ftill, and would have been very advantageous 
 to them. The 'lurks were unwilling to trade in any other kind of Money, and in the 
 payment of the Armies, to give the Souldiers content, there was a necemty of difperf- 
 ing them among them. One day, returning out of Terfia into Turkey, I was perfec- 
 ted by feveral Women, who would needs have me give them fome Temins, ( fo they 
 call that kind of Money ) and I could not have any thing to eat, for any other 
 Money. 
 
 Our French Merchants were gainers at the firft, after the rate of fifty, per cent, al- 
 lowing in Turkey but eight of thofe Pieces for a Crown, whereas they had twelve of 
 them in France for the tame Piece. But the other European Nations, the Englijh, the 
 Dutch, and the Italians, envying their happinefs, came to give a check to their defign, 
 and making their complaints to the Grand Vizir, that Minifter order'd, That, for the 
 future, they (hould allow twelve of thofe Pieces for the Crown, or that they fhould 
 not be current any longer, and that whatever fums thereof were found in the Ships, 
 Ihould be conrifcated. 
 
 The French were not at all fatisfy'd with that •, and whereas there was a neceflity 
 of fubmitting to the Grand Vizirs Decree, they bethought themfelves of having fome 
 of thofe Pieces coin'd, which ihould not have above four Sols of good Silver, which 
 was a confidcrable advantage, of twenty five upon the hundred. They pafs'd well 
 enough for fome time, before theTurks had difcover'd the fraud ■■> they being fatisfy'd, 
 that the Stamp was fair, and that the Pieces look'd very white : And the Women and 
 Maidens, of the meaner fort of People, made them contribute to the ornament of their 
 Head-tires, about which they faften'd thofe pretty little Pieces, and they came down 
 flapping about their Foreheads, as the wealthyer fort faften'd Pieces of Gold to 
 theirs. 
 
 But the better to compafs their defign, the French Merchants were oblig'd to find 
 out other Countreys, where it might be lawful for them to traffick in thofe Pieces. 
 Their firft recourfe was to thofe of Vombes, Orange, and Avignon, and paffing into 
 Italy, they found work for fome time for thofe of Monaco, and Majfa. But having 
 obferv'd, that the Turks were more taken with the^ieces which had the impreftlon of 
 a Woman's Head, and thofe Princes being unwilling to fufter them to coin among 
 them any Money of fo bafe an alloy, or to give it the Stamp of J a, the Princefs of 
 Dombes, they caft their eyes upon fome Caftles tituate within the Territories of the 
 Gaunfes, yet fubjcdf to the jurifdidtion of the Empire, where they obtain'd what they 
 defir'd, upon conditions not difadvantageous to the Lords of thofe places. The Pieces 
 they got coin'd at Orange, were alfo fought after, and pleas'd the lurks, in regard the 
 Stamp was beautiful, and very clear ; but thofe of the Legaf of Avignon were not fo 
 current, the Effigies thereof not being well done, and the Crofs, hanging at the Neck, 
 
 dif- 
 
A Relation of the Grand Seignor's Seraglio. 17 
 
 diipleafing to the Turkr. , Had they contented themfelves, in that Trade, with twenty 
 five upon the hundred, it might have continu'd, and the profit would have been con- 
 siderable : but by little and little, the thing came to fo great an excefs, till, at laft, 
 there was not one penny-worth of good Silver in every piece. 
 
 The French, to make them pafs the better, gave eighteen, and fometimes twenty 
 for a Crown, of which abufe the great Merchants of Conjtantinople, Aleppo, Smyrna, 
 and other Cities of Trade, made a good hand, they giving but twelve or thirteen for 
 the worth of a Crown, in the payments, they made to the petty Merchants of the Pro- 
 vinces of the Empire, for the Merchandizes they brought out of Turkey, there was 
 none of that counterfeit Money difpers'd, and the Armenians were far enough from 
 burthening themfelves with it, in regard that all the Money, which is carried into Per- 
 'fia, is prefently eonvey'd to the Mints, upon the Frontiers, to be melted down, and af- 
 wards coin'd into Abiffis, whereof they give the Merchant an account, anfwerably to 
 the Standard of his Money, after it has been exam'm'd ; and by that means there can 
 be no fraud committed. The fame courfe is taken over all the Great Mogofs Empire - , 
 and of all the Princes in the World, he caufesall the Species of Gold and Silver of the 
 belt Standard (o be coin'd without admitting the leaft allby. 
 
 The Genurfs Merchants, perceiving that the French had, at the beginning been fortu-7fo jeahufnof 
 nate in their Commerce, would needs imitate them in other forts of Money, and got the other Mer* 
 two or three hundred thoufand Ducats coin'd, which they carried into Turkey. But chants ' 
 they had not the fuccefs they expected, the Gold was fo counterfeit, that the cheat 
 was immediately difcover'd, theConful, and the Captain of the Veffel, were in fome 
 troubleabout.it, and thepcrfons concern'd therein, fav'd what they could of that 
 diftafter. 
 
 The Germans alfo would needs come in for a (hare, taking another courfe all along 
 the Var.norv, quite to the mouth of it, from whence they got to Conjlantinople, through 
 the Blacky Sea. With other their Merchandizes, moft whereof contilled in the counter- 
 feit Copper-wares of the City of Nuremberg, things fit enough thofe Nations, which . 
 border upon the Euxine Sea, they carried a quantity of Roups, of quarter-R)«/.r, of the 
 coinage of Poland, which were pleafant to the eye, and might have been commodious 
 enough for the Merchants,if the adulteration had been moderate.But the Italians need 
 not be much afham'd, that the Gennans Ihould be more (uccefsful than they upon that 
 occafion, fmce that both Nations came fhort in point of fubtilty, to deceive the Turks. 
 
 But to return to the French, the firft concern'd in this Hiftory, to which it is time to 
 pur a period. In the heat of their Commerce, and while all things were very well 
 with them,they thought it not enough,to carry away the richelt Merchandizes,butthey 
 alfo bought up all forts of good Money they could meet withal, and brought it into 
 France, to carry on and continue the coinage of their counterfeit pieces. This Trade 
 was carry'd on fo far, through the whole extent of that vaft Empire, and there was fo 
 prodigious a quantity of that counterfeit Money fpread abroad, that it was found by 
 the Regilter-Books of the Farmers of the Cuttomes, that the fum of what had been 
 difpers'd of it amounted to a hundred and tourfcore millions [_ of Livers] not account- 
 ing what had never come to their knowledge, and what Seamen, and other private 
 Perfbns might have conceal'd. 
 
 The other Merchants and Traders of Europe, who brought none but good Money, 
 having exclaim'd againlt that diforder, and renew'd their complaints to the Grand Vi- 
 zir ; the Turk/ at laft open'd their eyes, and that principal Miniller, having compre- 
 hended, that if the thing continu'd, in a (hort time, in ftead of Silver, there would 
 be nothing but Copper in the Empire, prohibited the bringing in of any more of thofe 
 pieces of five Sols, upon pain of confifcation, and great penalties to be inflicted on 
 thofe, Who durft do any thing contrary thereto, 
 
 Yet could not that crying of them down, and the Grand Vizir $ prohibition make 
 the Souldiers, who ferv'd in Candia, out of love with thofe little piece?, the beauty 
 whereof they were fo much taken withal. Notwithstanding all the Remonftrances 
 
 that 
 
1 8 A Relation of the Grand Seignor s Seraglio. 
 
 that could be made to them, they would not be paid in any other ki«,d of Money -, and 
 fome difcontented Perfons and Mutinccrs.bcginning to fhew their Teeth, they were 
 fore'd immediately to to fend Gallies to Smyrna, and fbme other Cities of great Com- 
 merce, to* bring away all that could be found of that fort of money. 1 he incredible 
 quantity of thofe counterfeit pieces,' difpers'd in all the Provinces of the Ottoman Em- 
 pire, is at leaft vaniflfd, they are grown red, and no longer current. 
 
 A mifchievoiis 
 fraud gently 
 punijhed. 
 
 The ancient 
 fincerity nf the 
 Tur s corrupt 
 td by the com- 
 merceoj the 
 Europeans. 
 
 At the firft crying down of that counterfeit money, before the news of it cculd 
 have been brought to foreign Countries, a certain Perfbn named Goulin, engag'd all 
 he had in the world, to make up to the fum of five and twenty thoufand Crowns 
 in thofe pieces of five Sols, fo extremely falfify'd, that there was harldly fo much Sil- 
 ver as was requifite to whiten them. He came to Smyrna, where I then was and 
 where he foon found, that there was noway to put off his counterfeit Merchandize, 
 Whereupon he imagin'd, that he might get jt off, if he could make a fpeedy Voyage 
 to Conjlantinople, where, as he had been affur'd, fome Perfons took them, even after 
 they had been cry'd down. Being unwilling to hazard all by Sea, he fent away, by 
 Land, four or five thoufand Crowns, which were taken away by Thieves, near "Bmfa 
 and carry' d the much greater part to Constantinople, in a Dutch VeiTel, of which he 
 had alfo fuffkient caufe to repent him. After he had expos'd it at the Cuftom-houfe 
 for the piymentof the Duties, the Chief Officer of the Cuftoms told him, that 
 he might return within two or three days , to take back what belong'd to him 
 and as foon as the other was gone, he* caus'd all to be melted down in his prefence. 
 The feparation being made, upon twenty thoufand Crowns, which was the fum he 
 had brought thither, there was not the full fourth part of Silver, and the Merchant 
 coming again to the Cuftomer, fell down all along, out of pure fear left a fevere pu- 
 nifhment might follow the fraud whereof he was vifibly convicted, feeing fo much 
 fcum of brafson the one fide, and fo little filver on the other. But the T«r/y are not 
 fb rigorous, as fome perfons imagine, all was reftor'd to him, nay there was no pe- 
 nalty inflicted upon him, and they only order'd him to be gone; 
 
 Certain it is, that the Europeans, more addicted to fubtilty and circumvention, 
 than the Levantines, and for the moft part not endeavouring to be fincere in Com- 
 ■ merce, have taught the Turkj feveral Cheats, which they were either ignorant of, or 
 did not pradtife, efpecially lince the Inhabitants of Granada , being driven out of 
 Spain, difpers'd themfelves into feveral Provinces of the Levant. Before that time, 1 a 
 man might have rely'd on their integrity and fair dealing. But now, w T hen you treat 
 with them, you mult ftand upon your guard •, fo prevaLnt is the example of evil to 
 corrupt mens minds. Nor are we to be altonilh'd at that ancient undifguized humour of 
 the 7//r/y in their Commerce, fince we hnd,that the poor Abysms, who come from the 
 lower parts of Ethiopia to traffick at Cairo, and the Idolaters themfelves in the Indies 
 amongft themfelves and with Strangers, with a ftrict obfervance of an inviolable 
 fidelity. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Chap,I. Grand Seignors Seraglio. ip 
 
 CHAP. L 
 Of the extent 3 and external parts of the Seraglio, 
 
 The Principal Heads. 
 
 The Origine of the wordScrra.il, or Seraglio,, com- 
 mon to all the Royal Houfes ^ as well in Turkey as 
 Perfia. The admirable Situation of the Grand Se- 
 raglio at Conftantinople. Its extent , figure, and 
 externals. The Artillery not fyp in good order, 
 and the Gunners not well sfylld. A delightful 
 flace of it felf ; hut rejlraint maizes it otherwife. 
 
 TH E Grand Seignor's Seraglio, whereof I undertake to give a Delcription, 5*' origint tf 
 is the Palace, where the Ottoman Princes ordinarily keep their Court. All th .f w<w ^ Sera - 
 the Royal Houfes, as well in 7ar%y, as Perfia, have the fame Name, j^/T^Z ' 
 which derives its Origine from the word Serrai, which figniries a great Houfes in Tur- 
 Noble Houfe, in the Perfian Language. The Grand Seignor has many key and Perfia. 
 Seraglio's, in the Provinces of his Empire, and the principal of them are thole of Bur- 
 fa, and Adrianople, two K efidences which that Monarch does ordinarily make ufe o£ 
 according to the conjundure of his Affairs. 
 
 But to confine our (elves to Conftantinople, we find there three Seraglio's, which have 
 all their different Beauties. The old Seraglio is the Palace, appointed for the retire- 
 ment of thole Women, who have ferv'd the Predecelfors of the Prince Regent, and 
 whence they never get out, unlefs it be in order to Marriage. The Grand Seignor 
 goes thither but very feldom, and that when he is out of humour, to pafs away iome 
 days there in fohtude. The Seraglio of the Hippodrome, fo call'd from the Exerciles 
 done thereon Horfe-back, which was built by Ibrahim BaJJa, Son-in-law, and Favou- 
 rite to the Emperour Solyman the Second, ferves now for an Amphitheatre for publick 
 Feftivals, Exercifcs, Combats, Caroufels, and particularly for the Circumcition of the 
 Ottoman Princes, which is their greateft Solemnity. The third is the Grand Seraglio, 
 whereof I make the Relation, and to which that Name is principally attributed, 16 as 
 that there needs not any thing elfe to be added thereto, to diitingunh 'it from the 
 others. I thall have but little to lay concerning the Structures of it, wherein there is 
 not any thing extraordinary to be obferv'd, but (hall rather infill: upon what is private- 
 ly done, in each Appartment of that great Palace. • 
 
 The Grand Seraglio is a vaft place indos'd, which reaches to that point of Land, ^ admhablt 
 where the ancient Byzantium was built, upon the Bojpborus of Thrace, and the joyaing foliation of tht 
 together of the JEgean Sea and the Euxine, which contribute fo much to the beauty Seraglio e/Coa* 
 and wealth of Conftantinople. This great City, let the Wind fit where it will, does faiuinoplc 
 every hour receive fome refrelhments or other, from one of thole Seas \ and the Sera- 
 glio, advancing it felf into the Channel, which makes a communication between them, 
 receives the firtf Advantages that may be derived thence. 
 
 C D ) that 
 
20 
 
 A Relation of the 
 
 Chap.I, 
 
 its extent , fi- 
 gure^and exter- 
 rials. 
 
 Tl>e Artillery 
 out of order, 
 and the Gun- 
 ners not tveU 
 skilled. 
 
 A pleafant 
 abode-, butre- 
 flraint ma^es 
 it otherwije. 
 
 That great Inclofure makes a Triangle, one fide whereof is to the Land-fide, and 
 reaches to the City, and the two others lye open to the Sea and a River which falls in- 
 to it. This Triangle is unequal, and if it be divided into eight parts, that fide to- 
 wards the Land takes up three of them, and the five others are for the two fides abut- 
 ting on the Sea. Its compafs is about three Italian miles, or one of our common 
 Leagues. And this Palace is furrounded all about with high and ftrong Walls, fknk'd 
 on the Sea-fide with fquare Towers, at a confiderable diftance one from another i and 
 towards the City, with round Towers, «which are at a nearer diftance one from ano- 
 ther, from the great Gate of the Seraglio, which is towards St. Sophia, as far as the 
 Sea, where you imbark for Gal at a. In thofe Towers, in the night-time, there are 
 Guards of the Azamoglans, to fee that no Body approaches the Seraglio, by Sea or 
 Land ■■> and if occafion require, they may fire fome pieces of Artillery, which ftand al- 
 ways loaden upon a Quay, of five fathom breadth, which is carried quite about the 
 Seraglio. , * 
 
 Upon one of thofe Towers, about a hundred paces from the great Gate of the Sera- 
 glio, as you go down, in order to your pafTage over to Gal at a, they have wrought 
 a Clofet, into which the Grand Seignor goes fometimes to divert himfelf, and to fee 
 People palling to and fro, without being feen himfelf. Somewhat lower, and upon 
 the Sea-tide, there is a fpacious place cover'd over, under which, as if it were in a lit- 
 tle Haven, they keep the Caicks or Brigantines, wherein the Prince takes his divertife- 
 ment by Water, when he is pleased to do it. 
 
 Not far thence, within thejnclofure of the Seraglio, are the Habitations of the Bo- 
 flangis, who are entrufted with the condudt of the Brigantines h and at a little farther 
 diftar.ee, in your way to the point of the Seraglio, which is towards Scudaret, ftands 
 the QL iarter 01 theBoftangi-bacbi, Overfeer of the Gardens of the Seraglio, and of all 
 the other Gardens belonging to the Grand Seignor. 
 
 Upon the Quay, which, as I told you, does furround the Walls of the Seraglio, 
 there are forty or fifty pieces of Canon of different bignefs, and there are fome of fo 
 great a bore, that a Man might get into them. Oppofite thereto, and in the middle 
 of the Channel, there is a Tower built upon a Rock, which the Turks call Quijler hou- 
 left, or the lower of the Virgins. It is kept by Boftangps, and has its Guns levell'd with 
 the Water, which better defend the Streight, than thofe at the point of the Seraglio, 
 which for the molt part are without Carriages, and unferviceable. Befides, they want 
 good Gunners, and if all that Artillery were well mounted, and manag'd by skilful 
 Perfons, it would better keep in awe, whatever comes out of the Mediterranean , and 
 the Blacl^Sea. 
 
 Some few paces from the place where thefe Canons are planted, there fprlngs a 
 Fountain which comes out of the Seraglio, and cafts a great quantity of Water, for 
 the convenience of the Veffels, which lye at Anchor near it, and fupply themfelves 
 therewith =, it being not permitted that any lhould land on that fide of the Seraglio, 
 but upon that account. 
 
 We have fpoken fufficiently of the external parts, 'tis time we now enter into the 
 Seraglio, and rather confider what pafTes in every Appartment of it, than the Structures 
 thereof, wherein, as I faid, there is not any thing of Magnificence, whatever fome 
 Perfons might invent, who, in my prefence, have made noble Draughts of it, ground- 
 ed on their own pure Imaginations. I have feen as much of the Seraglio, as a Stranger 
 could do, and I have feen it feveral times, in feveral Voyages, having had time enough 
 to confider, the two firlt Courts, the Divan, and the Hall of Audience, but cannot ce- 
 lebrate them much for any great Beauties I could find in them. T here is, I rauft con- 
 fete, abundance of Marble and Porphyry in all the Appartments i but on the other fide, 
 all thofe Appartments are confufedly (huffled together •, there is no regularity at all ; 
 moft of the Rooms have but little light, and all the ornament of them confilts in rich 
 Tapi^ry lay'd all over the Floors thereof, and fome Cufhions of gold and filver Bro- 
 kado, fome whereof are ernbroider'd with Pearls. But taking things generally, if the 
 Walls and the Towers, which indole the Seraglio, look more like a frightful Prifon, 
 
 than 
 
Chap.ll. Grand Seignor's Seraglio. 21 
 
 than a Royal Palace, the Appartments, whereof it confifts, have not alfo that wealth, 
 or pkafure, for which the Palaces of France and Italy are fo highly celebrated, and 
 they offer not any thing which may long entertain the fight of a curious Perfon. All 
 that can make the Seraglio a pleafant place of abode, is, the advantage of its fituation, 
 and indeed a nobler cannot be imagin'd. For it looks towards the Eaft, and cakes up 
 the upper part, and the defcent of a Hoping Hillock, from St. Sophia^ quite to the 
 Channel. The Buildings are upon the moll: eminent places, and have a profpedt into 
 the Gardens, which run along the defcent, as alfo into the two Seas which meet at 
 the point of the Seraglio, whence the Grand Seignor may at the fame time (he Europe 
 and Jfa in both which parts of the World, his Territories are very great. But ne- 
 ver was any Prifbn thought a pleafant place, and there are few in the Seraglio, who 
 rather would live in a Hut, and have their liberty, than be continually conrin'd in a 
 Palace under fuch fevere Difcipline. 
 
 CHAP. II. 
 
 Of the firft Court of the Seraglio, and parti- 
 cularly, of the Infirmary* 
 
 The Principal Heads. 
 
 The Regulations- of the Infirmary of the Seraglio. 
 The difficulties of getting Wine into it. The fkbtil- 
 ty of fome feople to he received into it p though they 
 are not ficlj. An abominable vice y common all 
 over the Eaft. The fruitlefs endeavours us'd to 
 checl^ the courfe of it. The facrikgious aUion of 
 two Ichoglans* The Wood-pies of the Seraglio. 
 The great advantages of thofe who have the charge 
 thereof. The exercife of the Girit, The Grand 
 Seignor's Liberalities. The counterfeit Modefty of 
 the Grandees of the Port. 
 
 OF the many Gates which give a Man entrance into the Seraglio, as well 
 on the Sea-lide, as on the Land-fide, that towards S. Sophia is the greateft. 
 That is alwaies open, the others not being fo, but according to the Grand" 
 Seignor's pleafure. You firft come to a great Portal, which has not any 
 thing of magnificence, and where you only find certain golden Letters,and 
 about them Feu'illages and Compartiments, according to the Arabian way of Painting. 
 That Gate is kept by Fifty Capigis, who have for their Armes, the Firelock, the Dart, 
 and the Cymitar, and gives you entrance into the firft Court of the Seraglio, which is 
 Tour hundred paces in length, and«a hundred in breadth, without any paving. 
 
 D 2 On 
 
 "V, 
 
22 
 
 A Relation of the 
 
 Chap.lL 
 
 the RtguUti- On the right hand of that firft Court, there runs all along a fpacious ftru&ure, con- 
 on* of the m{ir- tatoink feveral Appartments or Chambers, and ferving for an Inhrmary to the whole 
 wary of the Se- s era gij 0 . The Gate of it is kept by an Eunuch, who has under him a great many 
 rj£lio. People, employ'd in attending on, and miniftring to the fick, whom, anfwerably to 
 
 their quality, they difpofe into convenient quarters in that houfe, where they may be 
 better alTilkd, then in thofe which their indifpofition had oblig'd them to quit. The 
 two principal Phyfitians, and the two principal Chirurgeons, whom they call Hcquinzr 
 bacbijind Geirab-bacbi, make their vifits there every day,at certain hours. A man cannot 
 imagine a place better order'd and regulated then that is : and the Grand Seignior him- 
 felffometimes comes thither in perfon,to take an exadt account of the Sick and their con- 
 dition, as alfo to enquire whether they are well treated, whether the Phyfitians vifit 
 them often, and whether every officer of the Inhrmary perform the duty incumbent on 
 him. There is feldom any place void in that Houfe, for afloon as one is gone out, ano- 
 ther comes in : and though it be defign'd only for fuch as are fick, yet feveral perfons, 
 who are well, are brought thither, under pretence of indifpofition, or to enjoy them- 
 felves a while, or to weather out fome trouble or difcontent. They continue there for 
 the fpace of ten or twelve daies, and are diverted, according to their mode, with a 
 wretched kind of vocal and inftrumental Mufick, which begins betimes in the morning, 
 and holds on till night. The permiiTion they have there to drink wine,which they never 
 have elfewhere, is a greater inducement for their coming in thither, than the Mufick. 
 But that permiiTion, which they would as 'twere conceale, and which the fuperftition cf 
 the turkr dares not publickly own, is accompany'd by a thoufand difficulties. They are 
 not permitted to bring in any wine in the fight of the Emttcb, who frauds at the entrance 
 of the place : and if any one ihould be furpriz'd in the doing of it, his punilhrrient 
 would be to receive three hundred baftinadoes, and a penalty of three hundred Afperty 
 to be paid to thofe from whom he had receiv'd them. But if he can cunningly get in 
 with the Wine, not having been ftopp'd at the Gate, aflbon as he is got in, he runs no 
 rifque at all, and may drink of it without fear of any chaftifement, though 'twere in 
 the prefence of the Grand Seignor, 
 
 The difficulty of The fmall quantity of wine which can be got in by this way, would fignifie but 
 getting -wine little among fo many People, if there were not fome other lefs difficult" contrivances to 
 into the infir- f u pply them therewith. And this is one of them. The Inhrmary adjoins to one fide 
 mry ' ofthe Gardens, from which it is feparated only by a wall which is not very high fo 
 
 that the Boftangis, who find that wine goes eft at a good rate, and that they who arc 
 within the Seraglio know not how to fpend their money, do, in the night time,by ropes 
 convey over the wall, fo many Borrachoes or bags of Buck-Skins, full of wine, contain- 
 ing forty or fifty quarts, which fome other perfons of the Inhrmary Hand ready to re- 
 ceive. This way brings in abundance of wine, but not without fear of being furpriz'd 
 by the Bojiangi-bachi, who goes the rounds every nighti 
 
 The fnbtilty of ^or ' s tne drinking of wine the main inducement which makes thofe counterfeit fick 
 fome perfons to perfons to feek out pretences, to go and pafs away fome daies in the Infirmary •, infb- 
 be received in> much that fome have the lewd artifice to put themfclves into a ilight Feaver, which is 
 though not fic^. p re {ently remov'd. A deteftable palTion, and which is in a manner naturall to them, 
 
 though it be againit nature, makes them ftudy all the imaginable waies to fatishe it. 
 
 This proves a hard matter for the lcboglans to do, while they are in their chambers ob- 
 
 ferv'd and watch'd night and day by fevere Overteers, who never pardon them the 
 
 leaft mifdemeanour. 
 
 For though the Grand Seignor be himfelf fubjecf to the fame paffion, the very name 
 whereof caules a horrour, yet he orders cruel punilhments to be inflicted on thole who 
 fhall prefume to imitate him. He does what he can to prevent the mifchief, which he 
 would not have countenane'd by his example, and impofes the prevention of it as a task 
 upon the Eunuchs, a vigilant fort of animals, whofe Eyes are alwayes open. But in the 
 Infirmary, all thefe precautions prove fruitlefs j the Eumtcbs belonging to that place be- 
 ing corrupted partly by prefents, partly by treats, or being made drunk with wine, 
 or fome other liquors, they bring in thither fome young lads, of whom there is great 
 (tore in the City of Conftantinople. The better to ovgr-reach the Ewmcbs, they put thofe 
 young lads into the habits of the HalvagU, and fo the cheat fucceeds, in regard they are 
 
 th« 
 
ChapJI. Grand Seignors Seraglio, 25 
 
 the attendants on the Officers of the Seraglio, and do all the errands they have to do in 
 the City. 
 
 Of thele Hahages, there is ordinarily to the number of fix hundred, and they 
 have only their cloathing and fuftenance allow'd them, without any wages, till fuch 
 time as they have ferv'd thirteen or fourteen years. Their wages begin at the rate of 
 two AJpers [_per diem ~\ and in time may rife to feven AJpers and a half; but they have 
 other contingent Profits, and they know well enough, how to make their advantage 
 cf the Employments they are put upon. For whereas they only are the Perfons who 
 have the freedom of going and coming in and out of the Seraglio, they fet double the 
 price on every thing they buy. But their moft cunfiderable gain proceeds from the in- 
 famous commerce of thofe young Lads, whom they bring in to their Mafters, and 
 whom they cunningly flip into the Infirmary, after they had put them into Habits like 
 their own. They wear a white Cap, which rifes up from the Crown of the Head, 
 to a pretty height fomewhat to the relemblance of aSugar-loafi 
 
 The Hafteler-Agafi, or chief Overfeer of the Infirmary, is indeed continually at the rbtfrritltfs tth 
 Gate, with five or fix other Eunuchs, and carefully obferves whatever goes in, or deavours us'd 
 comes out. But all that vigilence will not do the work j nay though he had a hundred t0 ^ c k. its 
 eyes, yet were it impotfible for him to difcern thoCe young Lads, amidft the great cm ' t ' 
 number of thofe Halvagis, and that the rather, for theft reafons, that they are fre- v 
 quently chang'd, that fome of them are made Janizaries, and that new ones are ta- 
 ken in upon the advancement of the old ones to fome other Employments. But if it 
 thould happen that the faid Superintendent Eunuch fliould have any (ecret information 
 of what's defign'd, and feems as if he would make fome noife about it, he is prefent- 
 ly appeas'd with a filk Velt, or fome other Prefent, and 'tis thence that he derives his 
 greateft advantages. In fine, that brutilh Paflion is fo ordinary amongft the Turfy, jSfJJJfJfl JJj 
 and generally over all the Eaftern parts, that notwithftanding all the endeavours that £ a a 
 have been us'd to prevent the effects of it, they will hardly ever be able to do it. There 
 happen'd a memorable Example of this in my time. Two Pages of the Chamber, ^ sacrilege 
 who could not have the convenience of executing their wicked defign in the Seraglio, ous attion of 
 would needs aggravate their crime, by going into the Mofquey to fatiate their bruta- two Pages, 
 lity. After Prayers were ended, they fuffer'd all the people to go out, and having Co 
 well hid themfelves that he who (hut the doors could not perceive them, they fell to 
 the doing of an action, whereof the very Idea caufes horrour. 
 
 On the left hand of this firft Court, there is a fpacious Lodgement, anfwerable to ^ moA-vi ^ 
 that of the Infirmary ■■> and that's the habitation of the Azamoglans, perfons defign'd ^ Straglio t 
 for the meaneft Employments of the Seraglio. Within that Structure there is afpe- 
 cious Court, where you ihall find difpos'd in order, all about, and in the middle, Co 
 many Wood-piles, which are renew'd every year, and there are brought in thither 
 above forty thoufand Cart-loads of wood, every Cart-load being' as much as two 
 Oxen can draw. Some part of this wood comes in by the Blacl^Sea, and the reft out 
 of the Mediterranean : and whereas there is a great quantity of it left every year, efpe- 
 cially when the grand Seignor does not winter at Conjiantinople, that remainder, which 
 muft be very confiderable, is difpos'd of to the advantage of the principal perfons 
 among the Azamoglans. They are cunning enough to take their opportunity, when it is The great profit 
 unloaden upon the Port, and computing, as well as they can, how much may go t0 tl/chargt^ 
 make up the Piles, they proportionably fend, what they think may be fpar'd, to the thereof. 
 City, and lodge it in the houfes, where they are acquainted. Which they may do 
 with fo much the more fecurity, in regard that no body minds what they do, and that 
 they perform their duty, when the Piles are compleated, in the feafon , during which 
 they are wont to make their Provifions. The wood they thus convert to their own 
 ufe they are paid for, and the fum rais'd thereby is confiderable forPerlbns of fo mean 
 a Quality. 
 
 On the fame fide as the Infirmary, and a little lower, ( for the Seraglio is a rifing ^ Exercift cf 
 ground for a certain (pace, and then there is an infeniible defcent on both fides, quite f/;*Giric. 
 down to the point, whereby it is terminated) you difcover the great Portal of the Gar- 
 dens, which they call Bagge-Karpoufu From that Gate^ which overlooks the forefiid 
 
 defcent, 
 
24 A Relation of the Chap.IL 
 
 dcfcent, and where you are as it were upon an Eminency, you defce nd into a very no- 
 ble Place, which the Grand Seignor caufes to be always kept neat and even, where 
 the Great Perfons of the Court come to do the Exercifes of the Gim,or the Dart,whkh 
 is perform'd, mod commonly, upon Fridays, immediately after their coming out of 
 the Mofquey. There are about two hundred paces from the Portal to that place, and 
 in the Court there may ordinarily be, upon thofe days above fifteen hundred Perfons, 
 yet fo as that not any perfon whatfoever is permitted to go any further, unlefs he be 
 call'd by the Order of the Girh-Bey^ who is the chief Overfeer, and Diredforof that 
 Exercife. They who enter into the Lifts, do many times amount to the number of a 
 The Grand thoufand Perfons. If the Grand Seignor himfelf, who is prefent at thofe Exercifes, the 
 Seignors liber i*^^ whereof proves many times Tragical to thofe, by whom they are perform'd, has 
 huts. found any particular divertifement therein, efpecially when there are Limbs loft or bro- 
 
 ken, he orders everyone to receive a Purfe, which, as I told you, amount to five hun- 
 dred Crowns. The diltribution of thofe Prefents is greater or leffer, according to his 
 being in a good or bad humour, and fometimes there are diftributed at his departure 
 thence, to the number of ten Purfes. The Treafurer, who is always attending on 
 him, and has ordinarily brought along with him rifteen or twenty thoufand Ryals in 
 Gold and Silver, (lands ready, upon a beck, to obey his Orders. 
 
 rbe counterfeit But m ^ s 15 worm our obfervatipn,That when the Prince is ready to beftow his Libe- 
 modejly oj the ralities, on thofe who had behav'd themfelves valiantly in that exercife, theGran- 
 Gnndeesef the dees of hisCourt,who had appear'd therein as well as others,purpofely fhift themfelves 
 Vort ' out of the way, and leave him to make his Prefents to other lefs considerable Perfons, 
 
 as being fuch as ftand more in need of them than they do. This is their cuftom ordina- 
 rily, whether it proceed from Generofity, or from a counterfeit and perfbnated Mo- 
 defty, it matters not. And after the Grand Seignor is withdrawn, it is lawful for 
 thofe who are left in the forcfaid Court, and are skifd in the handling of the Dart, to 
 fpend the remainder of the day in that Exercife. But thofe, how great foever their 
 performances may be, and what wounds foever they may receive, are not to expecl any 
 Prefents > There's no Prince to be a fpedfator of their Gallantry, nor Treafurer, to 
 diftribute his Liberalities, They only lay fome wagers amongft themfelves, and he 
 who gives the faireft blow, wins, and the faireft blow is in the 'head, or face. There 
 is ever and anon an Eye itruck out, or a Cheek carried off, and that Solemnity proves 
 very fatal in the end to fbme of them. 
 
 And this is an account of all that is obfervable in the faid rlrft Court, Let us now 
 make ofcr entrance into the fecond, and obferve what is mott remarkable in all its Ap- 
 partments. 
 
 CHAP, 
 
 i 
 
C ap.Ill. Grand Seignors Seraglio. 
 
 ^5 
 
 CHAP. III. 
 
 Of the fecond Court, wherein are the little Stables, 
 the Kitchins, and the Divan. 
 
 The Principal Heads. 
 
 A fquare and fpacious Court, and its Embellifhments. 
 i be Janizaries extremely fprigbtful } a$ive, and well 
 order'd. The number of the Kitchins. The ordi- 
 nary difhes of meat that are jervd up in the Seraglio. 
 The way of ordering the Pilau. A particular way 
 of roafiing in tbe Levant. The Turks cannot en- 
 dure the Hare. Conferees of all forts. Several com- 
 pofitions ^Sherbet. Receptacles for all the w&- 
 
 . ters of the Seraglio. The little Stables. 1 he Quar- 
 ter of the Eunuchs. 
 
 OUt of the firft Court, into which the Baffas and Grandees of the Port, may 
 come on Horie-back, and where they are oblig'd to alight, if they intend 
 to go any further, there is an entrance into another, through a lecond 
 Gate, kept, as the former, by fifty Capitis. The fecond Court, much 
 more noble, and more delightful, then that whereof we gave you the pre- 
 cedent defcription, is neer three hundred paces fquare, and only the walks, leading to 
 the feveral Appartments, are pav'd, the relt being in Grafs-plots, planted about with 
 Cyprefs, and water'd by Fountains, with rails all about, to hinder people from go- 
 ing upon the grafs. Over the gate of that Court, may be feen thefe words, written in 
 great golden Characters. 
 
 La lllah'e Ilia Alia, 
 Muhammed ^efoul Alia, 
 
 That 
 
2 6 A Relation of the Chap.IlL 
 
 That is to fay, 
 
 There is n» other God than God, 
 Mahomet is fent by God. 
 
 Refoul fignifies fent, which is the greateft Title given by the Turks to 
 their Prophet. 
 
 T ., On both fides of that Court there runs a very noble Gallery, the pillars whereof are 
 
 wf/Wu" °f mar ^ e ' a ^ a l° n g which the Companies of the Janizaries are drawn up, and difci- 
 plin'd, when the Grand Seignor orders them to ihew their activity, and to appear well 
 arm'd, at the arrival of fome AmbafTador, who is to have Audience. 
 
 On the right hand, behind the Gallery, where the Janizaries are drawn up, on the 
 Vivan-dayes {"that is to fay, upon Council-dayes] are the Kitchins., and the Offices of 
 the Seraglio, diftincT: one from the other, and every one ferv'd by its peculiar Officers. 
 Heretofore there were nine of them, but now that number is reduc'd to feaven. Every 
 Office or Kitchin, has its chief Director, or Matter-Cook, and there is a Superintendent 
 above them all, named the Akegi-bacbi, who has the command over four hundred 
 Cooks. 
 
 tht number of The chiefeft of thefe Kitchins, which is for the Grand Seignior himlclf is called 
 tht Kjubins. Hafmoutbak. 
 
 The Second is called Valede-Sultanum-Motttbaki, and is defign'd for the Suhaaejfes, 
 as for inftance, the Mother, the Wife, or, to fay better, the Princefs, for whom the 
 Grand Seignor has the greateft kindnefs, and who had the happinefs to bring into the , 
 World a Succeffor to the Empire, as alio for his Sifters and Daughters. 
 
 The third Kitchin, which they call Kifler-Agazintim-MoutbaJq is appointed for the 
 Overfeer of the Appartment of the Women, and the other Negro-Eunuchs who are em- 
 ploy'd about the guarding of them. 
 
 The fourth is for the Capou-Agafi, or Grand Mafter of the Seraglio, who has the 
 greateft accefs to the Grand Seignor's Perfon, and whofe Charge ( as I faid elfewhere ) 
 generally extends over whatever enters into the Palace. And this Kitchin ferves alfo for 
 the Officers of the Vivan. 
 
 The fifth is for the Cbafnadarbacbi, or the chief Perfon concern' d about the Treafury, 
 and for thofe who are under his jurisdiction^and obey his Orders. 
 
 The fixth is for the Kilargibacbi? or principal Cup-bearer, and thofe who have their 
 dependance upon him. 
 
 The feaventh and laft, is that of the Sarai-Agafo and of all the Officers, who are un- 
 der his charge. 
 
 Laftly, as for the Boftangis^ whofe work lies in the Gardens, they drefs their Meat 
 themfelves, and appoint fome among them to execute that Office, and they provide the 
 Commons for all the reft. There are alfo fome of thefe Bojiangis employ'd in the Offices 
 defign'd for the Grand Seignor. 
 
 the ordinary There enters no Beef into the Kitchins of the Seraglio : but the ordinary confurnp- 
 meatt ftrv'd tion of every day, including all, as well thofe who eat within, as without, may a- 
 up in tht Strag- mount to Five Hundred Sheep, in which number muft be comprehended Lambs and 
 Kids and the greatelt part of thofe Sheep, are brought from the Frontiers of Perfta > 
 which Country excels all others, as to that creature. According to this proportion of 
 
 Mutton, 
 
Chap.lU. Grand Seignor's Seraglio. 27 
 
 Mutton, may be computed the quantity of Pullets, Chickens, and young Pidgeons, the 
 number whereof is limited, according to the Seafons ; as alfo what may be confum'd 
 in Rice, and Butter, for the Pilau, which is accounted the beft difhin Turkey, and all 
 over the Ealt. Thofe Nations, who are lovers of Temperance, and do not much ftu- 
 dy the (atisfa&ion of the palate, leldom have any other dim : and that not being con- 
 temptible , fome haply will give me thanks , for communicating the ordering of 
 it. 
 
 The Turfy, and generally all the Inhabitants of the Eaftern parts, make the Pilau, the way e/>= 
 after this manner. According to the quality of the perfons who are to be entertain'd, dmng the Pi- 
 and the quantity which is to be made of it, you take either a piece of Mutton alone, or ' au * 
 together with that fome Pullets or Pidgeons, which are to be boyl'd in a pot, till they 
 are half done, or fomewhat more. When you think them fo far boyl'd, then pour 
 out both meat and breath into a Bafin, and the Pot being waQYd, put it on the 
 fire again with Butter in it, which they fuffer to melt, till fuch time as it is very hot. 
 Then they chop the meat, which had been but half-boyPd into little pieces, the Pul- 
 lets into quarters, and the Pidgeons into halves, and fo they caft it into the Butter, 
 they fricafs it, till it be of a very brown colour. The Rice being well wafh'd, they 
 put fome into the Pot over the meat, as much as they think fitting, and the breath, 
 which had been pour'd into the Bafin, they alfo put it into the Pot, Ladle-ful after La- 
 dle-ful, over the Rice, till fuch time as it (lands two fingers breadth above it. Then 
 is the Pot immediately cover'd, there is a clear fire made under it, and they ever and 
 anon take out fome grains of the Rice, to fee if it be foftned, as alfo whether it be 
 requifite to put in fome more of the broath, to compleat the ftewing of it. For it is 
 not like the Rice brought into our parts, which prefently breaks afunder, but their 
 Rice is of fuch a kind, that it muft be fully boyl'd, and yet the Grain entire, as well 
 as the whole Pepper, wherewith they feafon it. As foon as it is come to that condi- 
 tion, they cover the Pot with a cloath three or four times doubled, and fet the Pot- 
 lid upon that, and fome time after, they make another melting of Butter, till it be ve- 
 ry red j to be call: into the holes, which are made in the Rice, with the handle of the 
 Ladle, after which they cover it again of a fudden, and fo let it ftand foaking awhile, 
 and then ferve it up. It is put into large Difhes, with the meat handfomly difpos'd 
 upon it, and fome part will be white, that is, continu'd in its natural colour, fome 
 part, yellow, occafion'd by a little mixture of Saffron, and a third part of a Carnati- 
 on-colour, done by the tinfture of the juyce of Pomegranate. Nay, though the meat 
 be as fat as is requifite for the ordering of this Difh, yet to make the Pilau more deli- 
 cate and palatable to them, they beftow three pounds of Butter on fix pounds of 
 Rice, which makes it fo extraordinary fat, that it difgufts, and is naufeous to thofe 
 who are not accuftom'd thereto, and accordingly would rather have the Rice it (elf 
 fimply boyl'd with water and fait. There are always two or three Dilhes ferv'd -up 
 arter that manner, to the Grandees of the Port, who, for the moft part, keep open 
 Table, and inftead of fiefh, they cover them with a great Aumelet or Omelet, made 
 with good Herbs, and about three fingers thick, or with fome poach'd Eggs, which 
 are neatly difpos'd all about it. A man is never incommodated by this kind of Rice, 
 but the other, which is too fat, is not fit for thofe who drink wine, and will not ex- 
 cite in them a defire to eat of it often. 
 
 Since I have given you an account how they order the Pilau, I cannot forbear ma- A particular 
 king you a further difcovery of the Turfy management of the Kitchin, and telling ™* y ^i^^f 
 you how they roaft their meat. The greater fort of meat, as fheep and Lambs are" e 
 roafted whole, in Ovens made in the Floor, wherein they hang them by the heads, 
 and they are taken out thence as it were brown-bak'd, and Cook'd well enough, fo as" 
 to excite appetite. At the bottom of the Oven there is ordinarily a Bafin plac'd, ha- 
 ving in it fome Rice and fair Water, which receives the drippings of the Beaft, the 
 very Tayl it felf, which fometimes weighs fifteen or twenty pound, yielding a good 
 quantity thereof, as being in a manner all fat. The Tayls of the Lambs, having not 
 lb much fat, are excellent meat, and in a manner as delicate as the Sweet-breads of 
 Veal. Thefe Lambs being thus roafted, are always ferv'd up with Rice under them, 
 and for the greater Tables, they ferve up two of them in a Difh.So that there is no ufe 
 of Spits in the Turkijh Kitchins.but what is for Poultry ,or Fowl, which they order -fa 
 
 C E ) untowardly^- 
 
 1 
 
28 
 
 A Relation of the 
 
 ChapJIL 
 
 untowardly, that when they are brought up to the Table, they appear fo mangled and 
 diforder'd,that it is no eafie matter to diftinguifh the head from the feet. But it is to 
 be obferv'd, that the Pilau, and all forts of Flefh-meat are not ferv'd up, but only at 
 Supper, about five of the Clock in the Evening i and that in the morning, thofe of 
 better Quality cat only Sallets, Herbs, Fruits, and Conferves ; the meaner fort of peo- 
 ple contenting themfelves with meats made of Milk, Melons, and Cucumbers, ac- 
 cording to the Seafon. 
 
 As for Fifli, the Turkf care not much for it, and though the Seas and Rivers arc 
 well replcnith'd therewith, yet they feldom eat of them. It feldom happens alfo,that 
 any Venizon or Wild-Fowl comes into their houfes, as being a kind of meat they do 
 not any way relifti. But above all meats they have an averiion for the Hare •, which 
 obfervation I made alfo in the Armenians, who are of a perfwafion, that the Female 
 of that Creature has its monthly courfes regularly, as the Woman hath. It is eafily 
 perceivable v by what account I have given, that there is no great variety or delicacy in 
 the Turk'Jh Entertainments, and that the French and other Europtans would not think 
 themfelves well treated thereat. But, however, their Kitchins are kept very neat, they 
 have all the accommodations requifite for their way of dreiling, and whether you con- 
 fider the Difhes and other Veffels they ufe, or the meat it felf, there is as much clean- 
 linefs as can be expected. 
 
 Wie Turks have 
 en averiion ftr 
 the Hire. 
 
 Several Cowpc- 
 jitions of 
 Sh.rbec. 
 
 confines. The Officers where the Conferves and Sweet-meats are made (there being fix or 
 
 {even of them) are above the Kitchins, and ferv'd by four hundred Halvagis 3 who 
 were eftablifh'd by Sultan Solyman, a magnificent Prince, who alfo regulated all the 
 Offices and Officers of the Seraglio. They are perpetually at work in thofe leven 
 Offices, and there they prepare all forts of Conferves, dry and liquid, and feveral forts 
 of Syrups, as alfo feveral kinds of Turcbi, which are Fruits preferv'd in Vinegar and 
 Salt, into which, they put a quantity of fragrant Herbs, fuch as Rofemary, Marjo- 
 ram, and Sage. 
 
 In the fame Offices they alfo prepare the ordinary drink of the Turks ^ which they 
 call Sherbet) and it is made feveral ways. That which is moft common in Turkey comes 
 fomewhat near our Lemonade, but there is very little water in it j 'tis in a manner 
 all juyce of Lemmon, or Citron, having an intermixture of Sugar, Amber, and Musk. 
 They make another fort of it, which is highly in efteem, and that is made with the 
 water diftill'd from the flower of a Plant, which grows in Pools and Rivers, and has 
 the figure of a Horfe-ftiooe. Thefe flowers are yellow, and called Nuloufer. But the 
 Sherbet which they moft efteem, and which is drunk by the Grand Seignor himfel£ 
 as alfo by the Baffa's and other Grandees of the Port, is made of Violets and Sugar, 
 and there is but little juyce of Citron put into it. They make alfo another fort of 
 drink, which they call Magion, compes'd cf feveral Drugs, whereby it is made 
 hot : and there is another fort purpofely prepar'd for the Grand Seignor himfelf, cal- 
 led Mufcavi, of which he takes a Dofe, when he intends to vifit the Sultaneff'es. The 
 principal Perfons about the Court fend for it fecretly to the Halvagibachi, who does 
 not deny them ,' as being a great advantage to him , becaufe he is well paid for 
 it. Nor do they want Snow and Ice, to cool all thofe Liquors, and the Turkp arc 
 much more humorous and delicate in their drinks, than they are in their Meat. 
 
 At a place ten or twelve paces diftant, and oppofite to thefe Offices, is the Recep- 
 tacle, or Refervatory, which diftributes all the Waters of the Seraglio, and they arc 
 thence directed to every Quarter, into the places where there is a neceility of them. 
 One of theBaltagis has his ftation there all the day long, to give Water as he is di- 
 rected. And when the Grand Seignor paffes from one Quarter to another, the foun- 
 tain of that, where he is in perfon, plays continually during his abode there, by a 
 Signal which is given to the Baltagi. 
 
 The little Sta- ® n trie left hand, in the fame Court, and oppofite to the Kitchins, may be feen 
 hies. the Grand Seignor's little Stables, which do not hold above twenty five or thirty 
 
 choice Horfes, defign'd for his Exercifes with his Favourites, and above the Stables, 
 in great Rooms, they keep the Saddles^ Bridles, HoulTes, Trappings, Foot-cloaths,and 
 
 Stirrops, 
 
 Receptacles for 
 the waters of 
 the Seraglio. 
 
Chap, IV. Grand Seignor s Seraglio. 29 
 
 Stirrops, which are of ineftimable value; by reafon of the abundance of precious 
 Stones, whereby they are enrich'd. There are fome HamefTes which amount to a mil- 
 lion of Livers, French Money. The great Stables ftand all along the Canal, which 
 beats againft the Walls of the Seraglio. They are always well replcnilh'd, and in 
 good order, and they take care, that there be not fo much as one vacant place there- 
 in. In thofe Stables does the Grand Seignor keep a great number of Horfes of value, 
 tobereferv'd for the War, or tobeus'd in fome Magnificent Solemnity, that Stran- 
 gers may fee the Splendor of his Court. 
 
 CHAP. IV, 
 
 Of the Hall of the Divan, and the exadt Juftice 
 which the Grand Seignor caufes to be admitted 
 there. 
 
 The Principal Heads. 
 
 The Divan-Hall not very magnificent. The Council- 
 days. Caufes quickly decided. The caufes of that 
 expedition of Juftice in Turkey. The fkbtle Poli- 
 cy of the Ottoman Family. The care which is 
 tdfyn to prevent the revolt of the Janizaries. Hon? 
 the Grand Seignor ajftfts at the Divan., or Council. 
 The bold aBion of a Timar-Spahi., who tyUs a 
 Grand Vizir, and is pardon d. The noble Genius 
 of Sultan Amurat^ and by what Artifices he difco- 
 verd a great breach ofTruft. A tyud of Beads 
 us y d by the Turks at their Prayers. A noble Ex- 
 ample of a fevere aU of Juftice. At what times, 
 and how, the Grand Seignor rids thofe out of the 
 way whom he fufpeBs. The days on which Am- 
 bassadors come to the Divan. 
 
 THe Hall of the Divan, which belongs to this Second Court, is, on the left Tht Divan-UaU 
 hand, next to the little Stables, as you go towards the Grand Seignor's »» f vtt y Ma £- 
 Quarter. 'Tis a great low Hall, coverM with Lead , and wainfcoted and ni fi !tnU 
 gilt in fome places within, from which it derives a little Ornament. The 
 Floor of it is cover'd with a great Carpet, and there are fome Benches for 
 the Officers, of whom that Council confifts, which the Tur^f call Divan. There are, 
 as I told you. Galleries of all the fides of that Court, which makes it look as it were 
 
 (E 2) like 
 
30 A Relation of the Chap.I V. 
 
 like a Cloifter ; and 'tis under that Gallery which is on the right hand, that the Ja- 
 nizaries have their ftation, while the Vivan is fitting. 
 
 cwmeil-days' The Council fits, ordinarily, four days in the week, which days are anfwerable to 
 the Saturday-, Sunday, Munday, and Tuefday of the Cbrijlians. 
 
 Cauftsfoon dt. Juftice is there exactly adminiftred to any one that dcfires it, and for what caufc 
 tided. foever it be, fo, as that the differing Parties have no need either of Proctors or Ad- 
 
 vocates names not known in Turkey, and the Perfons concern'd are to lay open their 
 Cafes themfelves. There is no talk of delays, or putting off from one time to ano- 
 ther •■> people (hall not languilh in expectation, but the buiinels is decided immediate- 
 ly, what nature foever it may be of. 
 
 the Reafons of Though this Cuftom be very commendable, yet can it not be fo well practis'd 
 that Expediti- amongft Cbrijiians, becaufe they ftand upon the property of what they have, and that 
 »» of Juftice. j s deriv'd by Inheritance from fome to ethers, and the litigious partitions of them do 
 many times engage the Proprietors thereof in long Suits of Law. 'Tis quite other- 
 wife amongft the Great Officers of the Port, who are all Slaves, either taken in War, 
 or fent up, as Prefents, by the EafTa's, and Governours of Provinces. All their Eltates, 
 when they die, return to the Grand Seignor, from whom they had receiv'd them, fo 
 that it is a perpetual Circulation ; and their Children, as I told you in the beginning 
 of this Difcourfe, are brought up to the Seraglio, to be educated there, and that with- 
 out any hope of ever fucceeding their Parents, either in their Eltates, or Employ- 
 ments. The Ottoman Monarchy has always obferv'd this fubtle Policy, not to permit 
 that any Family fhould aggrandize it felf, and be powerful from Father to Son : but 
 they bring it down, as foon as they have rais'd it up, and timely enough deprive 
 them of the means whereby they might create Factions, to the diiturbance of the State. 
 Thence it comes, that, befides the Royal Family of the Ottomans, they know not what 
 Gentility, and antiquity of Extraction means \ there's no emulation upon that fcore, 
 and Charges and Dignities are beltow'd anfwerably to the Merit of the Perfon, with- 
 out any confideration of his Extraction. Nay, it fometimes happens, that the Prin- 
 cipal Minifters of the Empire, are the Sons of Cow-keepers, as was one RujLv\ a 
 Grand Vizir, who made fo much noife under the P».eign of Solyman. And fo, being 
 not any way oblig'd to their birth, they acknowledge their Fortunes to be the reward 
 of their Education. 
 
 But to return to the adminiftration of Juftice amongft the lurks. Thole who make 
 the Law their profeflion, and are look'd upon as the Clergy of Mahomet, leave no place 
 for iuits at Law s every one knows his priviledges, and what belongs to the function 
 of his Charge, and there arife no differences among them, becaufe all things are per- 
 fectly well regulated. 
 
 In like manner, the people are ignorant whacpleading fignifies. There's no occafion 
 for publick Notaries, in order to Matrimonial contracts '■> There's no great dims given 
 with a daughter,and the jewels and cloaths which (he can get out of her Fathers hcule, 
 are all the portion (he brings to her Husband. And this, in few words, is the reafc» 
 that the Turfy can put an expeditious end to all their affairs, without giving any tole- 
 ration to that pettifogging, which, among Chriftians, proves the ruine of fo many 
 People. 
 
 The Officers, who lit in the Vivan are, firrt, the Grand Vizir, the Lieutenant-Gene- 
 tal of the whole Empire, who is Prefident of it, and reprefents the Grand Seignor's 
 Perfon => Then the fix other Vizirs s Then the Cadilefquers of Romania and Natolia 3 
 who are the Judges and Intendants of the Armies \ Then the three Tefterdarsjor Trea- 
 furers-General ■■> Then the Nijfangibacba, the Lord Chancellour , And the. Net an gi, who 
 is as 'twere the Secretary of State, with fome Clerks, or Notaries. All thefe Officers 
 come into the Vivan-HAl, at four in the Morning, and continue there till noon, to ad- 
 minifter Juftice. The Cbiaoux-bacbi has his nation at the Gate, with a troop of thofe 
 that arc under his charge, to execute the Grand Vizirs Orders, and has a lilver-rod in 
 • his hand, as a badge of his Authority. 
 
 On 
 
Chap, IV. Grand Seignor s Seraglio. 9 1 
 
 On thofe dayes that the Divan fits, the Officers are entertain'd at dinner in the fame The care taken, 
 Hall, which is done with much fobriety, and little Ceremony. AH is over and taken t0 invent the 
 away, in half an hours time. The Grand Vizir eats alone, unlefs he call a Bajja ox rwo}tof tht 
 two to keep him company. There are carried alio mefles of Cbsmrba, which is a kind J amZane - 
 of pottage made with Rice, for the dinners of the Janizaries , who are in their ftations, 
 under the Galleries. But if it happen, that they are in a mutinous humour, and in- 
 cens'd againft a Vizir, or againft the Grand Seignor himfelf, not one of them will put 
 his hand to the Cbourba, but they fcornfully thruft back the difhes, and by that action 
 difcover their difcontent. 
 
 The Grand Seignor is prefently advertis'd of it, and fends to them the Capou-Agafi, 
 Grand Mailer of the Seraglio, to know what their pleafure is, and what they defire. 
 Then they depute one of their own Body to go, and fpeak on the behalf of them all , 
 and that perfon whifpering the Capu-Aga.fi in the Ear, declares to him the occafion of 
 their difcontent. That Eunuch prefently carries it to the Grand Seignor ; And if 
 they have a peek againft a Vizir, or a Cadilefquer , or fbmetimes againft their Aga, or 
 Colonel, it often happens that to appeale thofe mutineers, the Grand Seignor orders 
 them to be ftrangled, and fends them their heads. 
 
 Sunday and Tuefday are the principal dayes of the Divan, and then it is properly a theGraU 
 Council of State, and of publick affairs. The Grand Seignor mod commonly affifts at Seignor is 
 it, but is not feen ■■> and that keeps in awe as well the Grand Vizir, as the other Ofii-ft ntat the Di * 
 cers. He can come thither from his own Appartment, through a clofe Gallery, and van * 
 feat himfelf at a window, which looks into the Divan-Hz\\, and has alwayes a velvet 
 Curtain before it, which he draws when he pleafes, and especially when he perceives 
 that they have not done Juftice. I fhall produce here, an example, famous enough as 
 to that particular, which happen'd in the Reign of Sultan Acbmet, the Father oiAmw 
 rath, and one of the jufteft Princes, that ever the Ottoman Empire had. 
 
 The Reader is to call to mind, what I faid at the beginning, concerning the Timor- ^ boliattio$ 
 Spabi, on whom they bellow, during their lives, the Government and revenue of of a Timer- 
 fome Town, according as they have deferv'd by their Services* The Spabi , whole Sparu,wfco 
 ftory I am going to relate, had a Timar, between Aleppo and Damas, which might bring * Grand Vt^r* 
 him in a revenue of fifteen hundred Crowns. The Grand Vizir, either out of {bme 4 * ^ ■ 
 averfion to the Spabi , or upon fome falle reports which had been made of him, and 
 which he had been too forward to believe,without taking an exadt information of things, 
 took away from him the limar^ whereof he was poffefs'd, and beftow'd it on one of 
 his own Creatures. 
 
 The Spabi, finding himfelf fo unjuftly difpoffefs'd comes to Constantinople, enters into 
 the Divan, and prefents a Petition to the Grand Vizir, wherein he remonftrates to him 
 his long Services, and how he never was chargeable with any negligence of his duty. 
 The Grand Vizir having read it, tears it in his pretence, which was to fignifie as 
 much, as that he would not anfwer it, and that there was nothing for the Spabi to 
 hope for.The Petitioner withdrew,without laying any thing:but fome days afterwards, 
 he returns to the Divan, and prefents a fecond Petition, which the Grand Vizir like- 
 wife tears, as he had done the former , without making any anlwer thereto. Up- 
 on this fecond injury, the Spabi, full of fury, and jultly exafperated, draws his 
 Poniard, falls upon the Vizir,znd kills him. 
 
 The Grand Seignor, who was then at the Window, having obferv'd that a&ion, 
 draws the Curtain, and with a loud voice commanded that no hurt fhould be offer'd 
 to the perfon who had done it. He thereupon orders the Spabi to approach, and ask'd 
 him the Reafon of his having demean'd himfelf with fo much violence. The other 
 much alham'd, humbly makes anfwer, but with refolution enough, That he could not 
 forbear doing what he had done, upon the fight of 10 great a piece of Injuftice .* and 
 thereupon prefenting to him the Petition, which had been torn to pieces > the Grand 
 Seignor caus'd it to be read, and patiently hearkned to the juft complaints which it con- 
 tain'd. Having fully examin'd the A<fair,his Highnefs commended the Spabi for the 
 Adron he had done, ufing the word Aferim, which is as much as to fay, J 7# well 
 
j 2 A Relation of the Chap.IV. 
 
 done, and which is ordinary in that Language, when they approve a tiling •, and 
 thereupon , there was an additional Liberality made by the Grand Seignor to the 
 Command which he gave, that he (hould be re-eftablifhed in his limar. He thereup- 
 on took occafion to fpeak to the other Vizirs, and to tell them, That that Example 
 mould teach them to do juft things, and not to fuffer themfelves to be fo blinded by 
 favour, as not to obferve Equity. The violent action of the Spain is certainly not to 
 beapprov'd, though the injuftice of the Vizir was manifeft : but the procedure of the 
 Grand Seignor, cannot be look'd on otherwife then as moll commendable, and a great 
 Model of perfect Equity. 
 
 I mail not think it much, to produce here a fecond Example of the exact Juftice, 
 which the Grand Seignor would have adminillred to the People : and in this Exam- 
 ple there is fomething that is fignally remarkable. A great Stone-Mortar, which may 
 be feen at the Gate of the Divan, ferves for a Monumental confirmation of this Sto- 
 ry i and whereas it is accompam/d by many circumftances worthy our obfervat-ion, I 
 think my fclf oblig'd not to conceal them from the Pleader. 
 
 In the Reign of Sultan Amurat, a certain private Perfon finding himfelf without 
 Wife or Children, refolv'd to undertake the Pilgrimage of Mecba. Before his departure, 
 he conceiv'd , that he could not better difpofe what he left behind hirmthat was molt 
 valuable, then by putting it into the hands of a Hoggia^ Doctor of the Law. He there- 
 upon left in hiscuftody certain Jewels, in a little bag,intreating him to keep them till he 
 return'd,and declaring him his Heir,in cafe he dy'd in his Pjlgrimage.lt was the Pilgrim's 
 fortune to return fafely from Mecba 3 and making no queltion but to get what he had 
 entrufted the Hoggia withal, calls for what he had depofited in his hands. The other 
 makes him a very cold anfwer, telling him, That he knew not what he meant, leaving 
 him very much furpriz'd at lo unexpected an account of his concerns.The Pilgrim/mo- 
 thering his difcontent, and reflecting, that the thing had been done without witneffes, 
 did nothing for fome days > but, afterwards,he Prefents a Petition to the Grand Vizir y 
 and acquaints him how all things had pafs'd between him and the Doctor. The Grand 
 Vizir perceiving there was a great nicety in that affair, and that the Doctor might eafily 
 deny a thing which had been tranfacted without witneffes, bid the Pilgrim have pa- 
 tience awhile, and that he would give the Grand Seignor an account of it * which he 
 accordingly did. 
 
 The Grand Seighor Commands the Vizir to be very circumfpect in the management 
 of that Affair, as being very defirous to lift out the truth of it, and urders him to fend 
 for the Doctor, to make proteftations of friendihip to him, and to put him in hopes 
 of being employ'd in things of great importance. Some days pafs on, while the 
 Grand Vizir minds what Game he had to play. At length, he fends for the Doctor, 
 he commends his Ingenuity, and his Conduct i and fo putting him into very fair hopes, 
 he promifes him to prevail (b far with the Grand Seignor, as that he Ihould have the 
 honour to kifs his hands, fmce it was not juft, that fo tranfcendent a Wit as he mould 
 be any longer unknown to his Highnefs. The Doctor overjoy'd at that difcourfe, 
 thought himfelf the happiest man in the World, efpecially when he faw,that the Grand 
 Vizir had made him his Hougia^v/hkh is as much as to fay, his Almoner. The Vizir 
 proceeds, and according to the fecret Orders he had receiv'd from the Grand Seignor, 
 gives the Doctor another Employment, which was, that he (hould bring him in a Re- 
 port of all the Criminal Affairs which could be prefented. The Grand Seignor, upon 
 the Report of the Hougia, ask'd him his advice, and what punilhment the guilty Perfon 
 delerv d for the Crime whereof he was convinc'd,the execution being to be done accor- 
 ding to the judgment which the Doctor had pafs'd,whom he made his ordinary Reader, 
 and would have near his Perfon. 
 
 Five or fix months pafs on in this manner, ere there could be any difcovefy made 
 of the fallify'd Truft. And it is to be obferv'd, That the Pilgrim had given the Grand 
 Seignor an exact Inventory of all the feveral things, which he had put into the lit- 
 tle Bag. Among other things, there was particular mention made of a Tesbuch of 
 fine Coral. This Tefbucb is a kind of Chappelet, or String of Beads, eonfiftingof nine- 
 ty 
 
 How Sultan 
 Amurat difcO' 
 ver'd a fecret 
 breach oj trujl. 
 
Chap.lV. Grand Seignor's Seraglio. 33 
 
 ty and nine beads, upon each of which, the 'Turks repeat certain words taken out of 
 fome fentences of the Alcoran. That Chapelet is divided into three parts, from thirty 
 three, to thirty three beads, by a little firing, which feparates them : and at the end, 
 there hang'd a long piece of Corral, next to which there was another round bead, of 
 the fame material, of an extraordinary bignefs. 
 
 The more Puritanical fort of 7#rJy have their Beads in their hands when they are 
 upon vrfits, and especially when they approach great Perfons, and that very thing made 
 the rirft difcovery of the Hoggias theft, and breach of truft. One day, coming into the 
 Seraglio with his Coral-beads in his hand, the Grand Seignor, before whom he pre- 
 fented himfelf, calling his eyes upon them,and prefently imagining, that it might well 
 be the Pilgrim's Tefhuch, according to the defcription he had given of it in the Cata- 
 logue of what things were left in the little bag, told the Doctor, that he had a great 
 rarity there. The other immediately approaches him, and intreats his Highnefs with 
 all fubmilTion to accept of it. The Grand Seignor takes it, and making fome difcove- 
 ries how acceptable that Prefent was to him, does, by that prudent diffimulation, caufe 
 a joy in him, whofe chaftifement he was then contriving. 
 
 But that fingle indicium the Grand Seignor does not think enough, but he will have 
 other difcoveries i and knowing that among other things that were in the bag, there 
 was a Ring, the work of an excellent and an ancient Mafter, famous for that fort of 
 Rings, which the Tur\s wear on the Thumb, when they (hoot with the Long-bow e, he 
 expects a fecond occafion, in order to a fuller difcovery of the Cheat, and the more ab- 
 fblute conviction of the Doctor. 
 
 'Twas not many dayes ere that happen'd, by the contrivance of the Emperour him- 
 felf, who calling for one of his Pages, one well skill'd in Archery, went to the place of 
 the Girit, where he alfo call'd for a Bowe,there being not any perfon in the whole Em- 
 pire but was inferiour to him, as to ftrength and dexterity in the Exercifes of the Bowe 
 and the Dart. When he came to bend the Bowe, he complain'd that the Ring hurt 
 his Thumb, prefuming that the Doctor, who flood neer him, and had already prefented 
 him with the Coral-Beads, would alfo make him a proffer of the Ring, which he had 
 of the Pilgrim's. Is it poffible, faies.thc Grand Seignor, that there is not at this time 
 any Mailer living who can make a Ring any thing like fuch a one, whom he nam'd ? 
 The Doctor, whofe apprehenlion was not fo good, as to fee that this trap was laid 
 for his detraction, and thinking to inlinuate himfelf more and more into the Grand 
 Seignor's favour, told himT,hat, by good Fortune he had a Fung of that very Matter's 
 work, which he had kept a long time, and that if his Highnefs would be pleas'd to ac- 
 cept of it, he would bring it thither, which he prefently did. 
 
 Affoon a; the Grand Seignor was return'd to his own Quarter, he fent for the 
 Grand Vizir, and the Pilgrim, who came into his prefence, and he had in his hand the 
 Chapelet of Corral, which he made as if he were repeating, to try whether the Pilgrim 
 would know it again. The other having well obferv'd it,addrefs'd himfelf to the Em- 
 perour, faying, If it (hall pleafe your Highnefs to permit me to open my mouth, I dare 
 affirm, that the Chapelet, you have in your hands, is very like that, which was in my 
 little bag of Jewels, and polTibly I fhall not be miftaken, if I fay it is the very fame. 
 Whereupon the Grand Seignor commands him to come nearer, and putting the Chape- 
 let, and the Ring into his hands, the Pilgrim affirms, upon his life, that they are the ve- 
 ry fame things, which he had left in the cuftody of the Doctor. He coming the next 
 morning, according to his cuftom to make a report of fome criminal caufe to the Grand 
 Seignor, that Prince, who was a perfon of great ingenuity and apprehenfion, propofes 
 to him a cafe fomewhat of the fame nature with that between him and the Pil- 
 grim, and ask'd him what punifhment fuch a crime deferv'd. The unfortunate man, 
 blinded by a good fortune wherein he thought himfelf already well eltablilh'd, and what 
 was part being clearly got out of his remembrance, pronoune'd fentence againft himfelf, 
 and anfwers the Grand Seignor, That fuch a perfon, deferv'd to be pounded alive in a 
 Mortar. 
 
 Upon that fentence, the Emperour caus'd him to be immediately fecur'd, and having fJipTui^m 
 
 order'd 
 
i ,, ■ ■ - . . - ■- - i — 
 
 34 A Relation of the Chap.IV. 
 
 order' d all his chefts to be brought into the Seraglio, by the Baltagis, whom he fent 
 to his Lodgings, pulls out of his pocket the Chapelet of Coral,and the Pv.ing, which he 
 (hewes him, and told him, that thofe two pieces were taken out of a little bag, which 
 a Pilgrim of Mecba had entrulkd him with the cuftody of. He afterwards (hews him 
 the note or fchcdule of all the other pieces, and commanding him to open his Chefts s 
 the Jewels were there found. which that unhappy man,convinc'd of his guilt, and trem- 
 bling for fear, deliver'd up into the hands of the Grand Seignor. The Pilgrim was 
 call'd, and presently knew his bag, and his Jewels => and the Doctor, by an open con- 
 fdfion, acknowledg'd his crime, and perfidioufnefs. 
 
 The next day, the Emperour order'd the Divan to be Aflembled, at which he com- 
 manded that all the Grandees about Conjhntinople mould be prefent,to render the Judg- 
 ment the more folemn. He firlt commanded, that whatever belong'd to the Pilgrim 
 mould be reftor'd to him, together with fome additional recompence : and his next 
 .command was,That the Doctor mould be puniuYd, according to his own Sentence. To 
 that end, order was given, that a {tone (hould be made hollow, after the form of a 
 Mortar, into which he was thrown ftark naked, and pounded alive by the common- 
 Executioners. And that is the fame Stone-Mortar, which I have often feen near the 
 Gate of the Divan, and is left there, for a Memorial of fo admirable and fo folemn a 
 Judgment. And this was the period of a Hiltory, whereof all the circumllances are re^ 
 markable, and which is not one of the lealt Monuments of the Wifdom of the Empe- 
 rour Amur at. That Prince, inftead of ufing his abfolute power at the firlt overture of 
 fuch an Affair, thought it fitter, by a perfpicacity of mind and prudence, patiently to 
 expect remote occalions, that he might thence deduce evident proofs of a conceal'd 
 crime : and his intention was to raife the Doctor to great dignities,if he had found him 
 innocent', and to punith him feverely, as he did, upon the difcovery of his guilt. 
 
 At what time, I told you at the beginning of this Chapter, that of the four dayes of the Week, ap- 
 
 hnw, the Grand pointed for the fitting of the Divan, thofe which are anfwerable to our Sunday and 
 
 Seigw rids Tuelclay are the principal, as being thofe on which the Affairs of greateft importance 
 out oj the tray, i i i ti r X i n i , ■ ■ \ 1 c i ^ . 
 
 thofe whom he arc debated. 1 hey call thole two dayes Arzghinnz, in regard, that alter the Grand 
 
 J-'ijpecls. Vizir, the fix other Vizirs, and the two Cadikfqucrs, who affift at the Divan, havead- 
 
 miniftred Jufticc, they go all together to kifs the Grand Seignor's hands. If any one 
 of thofe Nine Judges have ought to fay to him, he is permitted, on thofe dayes, to 
 fpeak to him freely : and it is ordinarily upon thofe dayes alfo, that the Grand Seig- 
 nor takes his time, if he has a mind to take off any one. He then orders the Bojlangi- 
 Bacbi to be ready, with fome of thofe who attend him, to execute his will - , and ha- 
 ving declar'd to him who they are, whom he would have ftrangled,the order is no foon- 
 er given, but that either at their arrival, or at their departure, it is punctually obey'd. 
 True it is, that he does not demean himfelf fo, but when he is afraid of fome popular 
 (edition, in cafe he mould fend to punilh them in their own Houfes, where they might 
 make fome refinance. Cut within the Seraglio, and in fight of the Janizaries, who 
 arc in their ltations near the Divan, the unfortunate Perfon, whom they would have to 
 be ftranglfcl, has no more to do then to bow down his Head, and to ftretch out his 
 Neck, without thinking of any refiftance, which would be to no purpofe. In the 
 Eleventh Chapter, I fhall give an account at large, how they proceed to that exe- 
 cution. 
 
 The days on A little beyond the Hall of the Divan, you come to another Hall, rais'd up after the 
 ■which Ambaf- manner of a Balcony, where the AmbafTadors are feated, when they ailift at the Divan, 
 
 ^hivivln* t0 anc * mat me Y once * n mree monms > an d u P on tne dayes, tnat me Janizaries re- 
 ceive their pay. There is notice fent them to be there, out of a vain orientation, that 
 they may fee, what abundance of money goes out of the Treafury. Between thefe two 
 Halls there is a Gate, which leads to the Quarter of the Baltagis. Thofe are a fort of 
 rtrong and robuft People, employ'd, as I told you, in carrying of Wood all about the 
 Seraglio, and other mean and painful Offices. As to the wood, which is burnt in the 
 Appartments of the Women, they disburthen themfelves of it at the door, where the 
 Negro-Eunuchs take it up, and carry it into the Baths and other rooms, into which, 
 they only are permitted to go. And this is all that's confiderable in that fecond Court. 
 Let us now enter further into the Seraglio, and fee how things are manag'd there. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Chap.V. Grand Seignor's Seraglio. . 35 
 
 C H A P. V. 
 
 Of the inner part of the Seraglio, in general., and 
 particularly., of the Quarter of the Eunuchs, and 
 the Ichoglans. 
 
 The Principal Heads. 
 
 The Ichoglans educated under a feVere Difcipline, Tl?e great 
 Officers of the Tort taken out of the fame School, Tl?e mife- 
 rahle condition of the Children of the BaflTa's. Tl?e great Autho- 
 rity of the Capi-Aga. The Gaffes, through which the young 
 Lads of the Seraglio are to pafs. The Quarters of the four prin- 
 cipal Eunuchs. 
 
 TH E inner Seraglio is that part of the great Palace of the Ottoman Emperours, 
 which, from the Second Court, whereof we have given a defcription, ex- 
 tends to the point, at which place the Gardens are terminated, and which 
 comprehends, in general, the Grand Seignors Quarter, and the Quarter 
 of the SultaneiTes. But in regard the former is diftinguifh'd into feveral 
 Appartments, appointed for the Habitations of the Officers, who ordinarily approach 
 the Grand Seignor's Perlbn, and are his moft neceflary attendants, I will conduct the 
 Reader from one to another, and give a diftindr relation of every one of them. In this 
 Chapter, I fhall treat only of thofe Appartments which are taken up by the Eunuchs, 
 and the Ichoglans, who are under their Difcipline. 
 
 At the beginning of this Difcourfe, I made mention of the four principal Eunuchs^ ^ ichoalans 
 who have others fubftitute to them, to oblerve the adrions of thofe young Lads, who ^ t m ^f r a f t „ 
 are committed to their charge, and to inftrucT: them, as well in the Mabumetan Reli- vert difcipline 
 gion, as in the Exercifes of the Body, and particularly, as to what relates to the Grand 
 Seignor's Service. The Quarterns well of the Eunuchs, as the Ichoglans ftands next 
 to the Divan-YbW, and begins to make part. of the third Court, all along which it 
 reaches on the left hand. It is divided into leveral Appartments, and among others , 
 there are four, which they call Odas, that is to fay, Chambers, into which are diftrf- 
 buted fix hundred Ichoglans, according to the orders of the Capi-Aga who, with the 
 other principal Eunuchs, judges of every ones capacity. Tis the Capi-Aga alio, who 
 orders their palling out of one Oda into another, as we remove our Scholars from a 
 fixth form to a fifth and the cafe is the lame in their Odd's as. in our Forms, or Claf- 
 les, ths firft of the four Odas, the feverities whereof they mud weather out as well as 
 they can, being the laft in point of dignity. When he makes his general Villtation , 
 upon which follows the forefaid promotion,he turns out of the Seraglio, all thofe whom 
 he thinks uncapable of doing their Prince good Service, and that fuch as betray their 
 dilguft of fo auftere a life \ and then they are put our of all hopes of ever entring into 
 the Seraglio any more, and cannot pretend to any other Fortune, then that of Spabis, 
 with a fmall pay. The advantage of capacitating themfelves for the moft eminent 
 Charges of the Court and the Empire, makes thofe who remain behind to take the 
 greater courage, and accordingly they patiently fuffer, for the fpace of many years, the 
 harlh and unmerciful treatments of the Eunuchs, whom, upon all occalions, they al- 
 wayes rind very liberal of the Baltinado. 
 
 They are thofe Ichoglans, whom we may alio call the Grand Seignor's Pages, whd 
 
 (¥ ) arc 
 
36 A Relation of the Chap.Vl. 
 
 are advanc'd to the dignity of Bajfa's, Beys, Capgi-bacbis, Haznadar-Bacbis, and the 
 other great Offices of the Port. But they are particularly cull'd out of the number of 
 'c'nd't'^ 1 ^ r ' ie Tributary Children, who are taken away from the Chriltians, or taken in War, by 
 tl" ei (fl's 0 * ^ ea 01 Land. For, as to the Beiczades, or Children of BaJJa's, whom they bring up 
 children. V 1 the Seraglio, you are to remembe* what I have already faid, that they can never 
 afcend higher, than to the Charges of Beys, or Captains of Galleys. 
 
 When any one of thefe lcboglans is defirous to remove out of the Seraglio, or if 
 any one of the white Eunuchs has the fame delire, he prefents a Petition to the Capi- 
 Aqa, who carries it to the Grand Seignor, he receives his difmiffion, and is allow'd 
 a certain Pay, proportionably to the continuance and quality of his Services. But there 
 are others, whom the fame Cap-Aga turns out of the Seraglio againft their wills, and 
 that after they had ' weather'd out the nrft years, which are the moft infupportable. 
 And that is done fbmetimes upon this fcore, that the Cap- Ago. having had lome con- 
 telt with any one of thofe lcboglans, while they were Camerades in the time of their 
 youth, and fearing kit he fhould come one day to traverfe his defigns, he employs all 
 his credit and intereft, to remove him out of the Seraglio.but withal procuring him a 
 Recompence and Salary, according to the number of years he has ferv'd. 
 
 The flrft of the four Chambers., into which the lcboglans are diftributed, has the 
 through which greateft number of them, becaufe they are yet very young, and as it were Novices, 
 the Lads under the rirft Ferula : and it is called the Coucbouh^Odt , that is to lay, the little 
 brought into the Chamber, though it be the largeft of them all, in regard it is the loweft in point of 
 seraglio an to Dignity. There they are taught to read and write, aud arc initiated in the rirft 
 M s ' grounds of the Mahometan Law. And after they have fpent lix years in that Cham- 
 
 ber, they are remov'd into the fecond, which they call ^uilar-Oda, wherein being 
 grown more robufi, they are inftructedin the Exercifes of the Body, in (hooting with 
 tnc Br we, ufing the Lance and other divertifements of that kind. They are more 
 perfected in the fpeaking of the Turklfb Language, whereto they alfo adde the Arabian, 
 and the Perfian, which they (hall have occalion to ufe, in the Governments whereto 
 they may be fent. 
 
 There are four years (pent in this fecond Chamber, out of which they are again re- 
 mov'd into the third, which they call Cbafnadar-Oda, or the Chamber of the Treafii- 
 ry. In this Chamber, they begin to do the Grand Seignor fbme fervice, and to be im- 
 ploy'd in the Wardrobe, and the Baths, and there they are alfo taught to ride, and to 
 perfect themfclves in the Exercifes futable to that Station, wherein they ordinarily (pend 
 four years. Each of thefe three forementioned Chambers has a white Eunuch for its 
 chief Overfeer. The Sera'i-Agafi has the direction of the rirft > the ^nilargi-bacbi Com- 
 mands in the fecond b and the Cbafnadar-bacbi is the Governour of the third. 
 
 I (hall have occafion to fpeak more at large of the two laft, when I come to the 
 Chapters of the Cup-bearers Office, and the Treafury => and therefore I (hall only add 
 here, concerning all the three in general, That the lcboglans, who are inftructed there- 
 in, have not any commerce with thole of the fourth Chamber, of whom I (hall give 
 an account by and by, nor with any other perfon out of the Seraglio, or in the other 
 Cburts, but with the particular permiffion of the Capi-Aga, and in the prefence of an 
 Eunuch, who hears all that is faid : That they cannot converfe amonglt themfelves, 
 but at certain regulated hours => and that converfation muft be manag'd with a great 
 obfervance of Modefty, as there is an exact Obedience remarkable in all their deport- 
 ments : And laftly, that they are all clad in ordinary Cloath, even to the Beiczadks\ 
 that is, the Sons of Vizirs and Bajfa's who are dead, while thofe of the fourth Cham- 
 ber wear Cloath of Gold and Silver, becaufe they come into the Grand Seignor's pre- 
 fence, and often approach his perfon. I (hall give you an account anon of their Dor- 
 mitories, that is the places where they take their repofe, as alfo of the Functions of the 
 Oda-bachi and the Deflergi-Aga 3 who act according to the Orders they receive from the 
 four Eunuchs. 
 
 The fourth Chamber, which is the Prince's Chamber, is called Haz-Oda, and I 
 (hall fpeak of it, when I come to treat of the Cup-bearers Office, and the Grand 
 
 Seignor's 
 
Chap, VI. Grand Seignors Seraglio. 37 
 
 Scignofs fecret Appartment. Here, the Icboglans, who have endur'd hardlnip fo ma- 
 in' years in the three firft Chambers, begin to take breath, and to be allow'd more 
 liberty. They are permitted to converfe with all Perfons within the Seraglio, and they 
 have the advantage of frequent approaches to the Prince's Perfon, to whom they make 
 thcmfelvcs known, and from whom they ever and anon receive favours. 
 
 Under the Gate of the third Court, where a certain number of Eunuchs are upon the Quarter] 
 the Guard night and day, there is a paflage on the left hand which leads into a little f^L*[ ur 
 Gallery, out of which there is an entrance into the Appartmcnt of the Capou-Agafi \ F Emtc h s . 
 and when the great Gate is open, it hides that paflage, into which a man cannot en-i 
 ter but with fome difficulty. 
 
 A little further, and on the right hand of the Hall of the Audience, ftands the Ap- 
 partment of the Serai-Agafi, who is to take care for the keeping of the Seraglio clean 
 and in good order ■■> and a little farther yet, near a little Mofquey, where the Icho- 
 glans of the three ririi Chambers go to their Devotions, lies the Quarter of the Sefer- 
 lis. who are an hundred and fifty of the Ichoglans, or thereabouts, particularly ap- 
 pointed for the waftung of the Grand Seignor's Linnen. When he goes into the Coun- 
 try, the moft antient among them are of his Retinue , and there muft be comprehend- 
 ed in that number, fuch as play on Timbrels, aud the other Inftrumental Muficians, 
 who have the (ame appointments with the reft. 
 
 Let us now enter into the Hall of Audience, which is a Quarter as 'twere indepen- 
 dent from others, and where the Grand Seignor receives Forein Ambafladors. 
 
 CHAP. VI. ' 
 
 Of the Hall wherein the Grand Seignor gives Au- 
 dience to Forein Ambalfadors, and the manner 
 how they are receiv'd* 
 
 The Principal Heads. 
 
 The defer iptiou of the Hall of Audience. Tlx Grand Seignor's 
 Throne. The manner ho~to Jmbaffadors are receiVd. Remarks 
 upon the riuntber of VeHments which the Qrand Seignor orders to be 
 beHoTb'don the Ambaffadors of Chriftian Princes. The form of 
 the Oath of Allegiance, -frhich the Cham of the Leffer Tartary 
 comes to take at the fame place t 
 
 ■ "^He Third Court of the Seraglio, wherein we now are, is far from being The Hall of 
 fo regular, as the precedent, and the Structures within fufficiently difco- Auditnct de- 
 H ver, that the perfons, by whom it was built, minded mot the oblervance ^ r '^ 
 JWu- of any Order in the doing of it. When you are at the Gate of this Court, 
 you have juft oppofite to you a little Appartment, not adjoyning to the 
 others, at the entrance of which you find, on both fides, a Fountain ifluing out of 
 Wall, the Water whereof is receiv'd into two Bafins or Cifterns : And 'tis in this 
 Appartment that the Hall of Audience ftands. 'Tis an arched Structure noble enough 
 in its kind, fuftain'd by Marble Pillars., and there is yet to be (een in the midft of it, 
 
 (F 2) afmafl' 
 
A Relation of the Chap. VI. 
 
 a (mall fpout of Water, which falls into a Bafin. This Hall is open of all fides, and 
 at the lower end, oppofite to the Gate, they place the Grand Seignor's Throne. 
 
 Tht Grand This Throne, which is rich enough, is in the manner of an Altar, and it is brought 
 
 Signer's j nto fa t }\^\\ on \y U p 0 n thofe days, whereon the Grand Seignor is willing to give Au- 
 fb xm ' dience to Ambafladors, and when the new Cham of the Letter tartary, whom he has 
 
 chofen to govern there, comes to receive the Inveftiture of his Kingdom, and to take 
 the accuftomed Oath. The back-fide of the Throne, is fet againft a partition ereded 
 for that purpofe, which is not above half a foot higher than it, and 'tis that keeps in 
 the cufhions which are behind the Grand Seignor. 
 
 There are in the Treafury-Chamber eight fcveral very fumptuous Coverings pur- 
 pofely made to cover the aforefaid Throne : and they are fo large, that they reach 
 down to the ground on three fides of it, that is to fay, before, on the right hand, and 
 on the left j for as to the back-part, it is, as I told you, faften'd to the partition. The 
 moft Magnificent of all thofe Coverings is of a black Velvet, with an .Embroydery of 
 great Pearls, whereof feme are long, and others round, and in the form of Buttons. 
 There is another of white Velvet, fet out with an Embroydery of Rubies and Eme- 
 ralds, moft whereof are fet in Beazils, or Collets, the better, to keep them in. There 
 is a third, of a Violet-colour'd Velvet, embroyder'd with Turquefes and Pearls. The 
 three others, which are next in efteem to thefe, are alfo of Velvets of dhferent Co- 
 lours, with a rich Embroydery of Gold. And the two laft are of a Gold-Bro- 
 kado,which have alio their particular Beauty and fumptuoufnefs.The Throne isadom'd 
 with one of thefe coverings, according to the Grand Seignor's refped to the Sove- 
 reign, whofe Embafly he receives i and he levels his own Magnificence to that of the 
 Prince whom he would honour. 
 
 Tbi mannir of And this is the manner, how Ambafladors are receiv'd into that Hall. For, as to 
 riceivini tbt fa Order, and Ceremonies of their march from the Hotel, or great Houfe of Fera, to 
 Ambajjadors. ^ p ort 0 f Confiantinople, and from the Port, to the Seraglio, no queftion but there 
 have been Relations enough made already. After the Ambaflador has din'd in the 
 Hall of the Divan, with the Grand Vizir, who there expected him, while his Retinue 
 are entertain'd under the Gallery, upon fbme old Carpets of Leather, which they 
 fpread upon the ground, and upon which there are a few Difhes of Meat fet, he re- 
 ceives the Vefts or Garments, which the Grand Seignor fends him, as well for his 
 own Perfbn, as for thofe who accompany him, and they put them on immediately, 
 over all the Cloaths they have about them, as they would do a Morning-Gown. 
 
 In this Equipage the AmbafTador is conducted to the Hall of Audience, by the Ca- 
 pi-Aga, the Grand Mafter of the Ceremonies, who is affifted by feveral Eunuchs : 
 and when he is at the Door, two Vizirs ftand ready to receive him, and they go on 
 each fide of him, till he comes to the place, where he is to bowe , and to kifs the 
 Grand Seignor's Garment. From the very Gate of the Court, kept by the Eunuchs, 
 quite to that of the Hall, they walk all along upon Carpets of Silk •, and the Floor of 
 the Hall, though all pav'd with Marble, is alfo cover'd with another Carpet of Gold, 
 the Workmanfhip whereof fomewhat refembles that of our ordinary Straw-Mats, and 
 much about the fame thicknefs. 
 
 The Grand Seignor demeans himfelf with a great deal of gravity, while he is in his 
 Throne i and behind the little Wall or Partition,againft which it is fet,you fee,ftanding 
 in order,the KiJIer-Agafi,who is a Negro-Eunuch, and chief Overfeer of the Appartment 
 of the Women ; the Seligdar-Agajvho carries the Grand Seignor's Sword => the Chokg- 
 dar-Aga,who carries the Royal Robe,an Officer whom in Fr<z/zce,they call Forte-Manteauh 
 the Kiquabdar, who holds the Stirrup, when the Prince gets on Horfe-back ; and the 
 Hazodabachi, chief of the Chamber, which Office would be equivalent in France, to 
 that of Grand Mafter of the Wardrobe. 
 
 All thefe fore-mentioned Officers do all deport themfelves with a great appearance 
 of modelty, having their Arms crofs their Breafts : And as to the Capi-Aga, the In- 
 trodudor to the Ambafladors, and Grand Mafter of the Seraglio, he ftands in the 
 midft of the Hall, and in the fame pofture of humility. On the left fide of the 
 
 Throne., 
 
Chap, VI. Grand Seignors Seraglio. 39 
 
 Throne there is a kind of a low Seat, cover'd with red Velvet, with a Gold-fringe, 
 oil which the Ambafladors go and fit down, after they have kifs'd the Grand Seignor's 
 Robe, till fuch time as thofe of their Retinue, who have had Verts, the number where- 
 of is limited, have perform'd the fame Ceremony. In the mean time, all the Baffas 
 are (landing, in the prefence of their Prince i nay, the Cham of the Letter tartary is 
 not excepted out of that Law, when he comes to do homage. All this action is per- 
 form'd in great filence, and the Grand Seignor making no anfwer at all at that time, 
 leaves it to the Grand Vizir , to make fome fticrt Complement, in order to the difmif- 
 (ionof the AmbafTador, who withdraws with a profound reverence, without uncove- 
 ring his head, or turning his back, till he be out of the Hall. 
 
 TheMinifters of Chrirtian Princes and States who ordinarily refide at the Port, are 
 the Ambafladors of England, France, and Venice, and the Reiident of the States Geiie- 
 ral,who have all their refpe&ive Habitations in Vera. When there come thither any Am- 
 bafladors or Rcfidents from the Emperor, or from Poland, or Mufcovy, they oblige 
 them to take up their abodes at Conjiantinople, that they may be the more aflur'd of 
 their perfons. 
 
 The Grand Seignor diftinguifties the Quality of thofe Princes and States, and the ^^/^ 
 
 efteem he has for them, by the number of Veils which he orders to be bertow'd on w hicb the * 
 
 their Ambafladors when they come to Audience. The Ambaflador of France has four Grind Seignor 
 
 and twenty allow'd him the Ambaflador of England, fixteen =, the Ambaflador or ordirs 10 bt 
 
 Aeent of Venice receives twelve, and the Dutch Ambaflador as many. v , tn J h ? Am c 
 
 o , bajjaaors o) 
 
 When Monheur de Marcheville was Ambaflador in Turkey, from his moft Chriftiari prmw.* 
 Majelty of France, I had the honour to be one of thofe who accompany'd him to the 
 Seraglio, where after Dinner with the Vizirs, in the Dmwz-Hall, while his Retinue 
 were treated under the Gallery, the Vefts were brought according to the cuftome. 
 The Ambaflador coming to dillribute them to thofe whom he had a mind to favour, 
 . and take along with him to the Audience, he was much furpriz'd, to find - that he had 
 got but fixteen. He immediately lent word to the Grand Vizir, that he wanted eight 
 Vefts, and that he would not go to his Audience, till he had the full number, which 
 they had wont to prefent to the Ambafladors of France. There was feme conteft 
 about it, which retarded the Audience near an hour's time ; but at laft Monfieur de 
 Marcheville perfifting in his refolution, the Grand Vizir comply'd, and fent him eight 
 other Veils. 
 
 What remains of this Chapter muft reprelent the manner, how the Cham of the tl)t Form of 
 Lefler Tartary comes into this Hall of Audience to take the Oath of Allegiance to the tbe 0a . ti} °J 
 Grand Seignor. The Reader will be pleas'd to remember, what Obfervation I made ^f^g 
 at the beginning of this Work concerning the Family of that Tributary Prince,whom Cham of tbe 
 the Ottoman Emperors keep under the Yoke. The Cham, who is to Reign in his turn, Lejjer Tartary 
 and according to what difpofal the Grand Seignor has made of the Government, pre- f0 the Grand., 
 fents himfelf before him in the Hall of Audience, and after he has kifs'd his Robe, re- Sil S n9U 
 tires fbme paces back, and Hands. Then they bring in the Alchoran, upon a great 
 green Velvet Cufhion, without any Embroydery, at the four Comers whereof there 
 are four Taflels of Gold and Silk, and they place it on the Grand Seignor's right 
 hand. Now whereas he fits on a Carpet crofs-legg'd,there muft be great care taken,that 
 the Cufhion be not fo high as his knees } for the lur\q would account that a great fin \ 
 and they bear fo great a refpedt to the Book of the Alchoran, that they cannot touch 
 it, till they have hrft wafh'd themfelves. Before they open it, they kifs it, and put it 
 upon their heads, and after they have read fomething in it, they kifs the writing of it, 
 and then they rub their faces with it, before they (hut it. The Prince, who is to taka 
 his Oath, is Handing all this time, as I told you, with his hands ftretch'd out one 
 againft the other, and lifted up as high as his fhoulders, to receive the Book of the Al- 
 choran out of thofe of the Capi-Aga, who had been to take it oft" the Cufhion, having 
 kifs'd it, and touch'd his head with it. The Oath which the Cham takes is in thefe 
 
 Words : <Bou quittab hakjucbun feadetlu , padichai'tn, tare fin den her 
 nh Emir^ 'Veferman bana keleurfe itaat ideym. That is fay, By the Tmh 
 
 of 
 
A Relation of the Chap. VII. 
 
 of this Boo^ I will caufe to be executed all the Orders and Commands which Jhall be 
 brought unto me from my Lord* 
 
 And now that I have given you the Oath of Allegiance made by the VafTal to his 
 Lord, I (hall here alfo adde the Form of that, which the Ottoman Emperour requires of 
 all the Chriftian Princes, who are fubjed to his Jurifdidion, fuch as are the Princes 
 of Moldaviaznd Walachia. It runs in thefe words : Hi ijahac Juchum, jea- 
 
 detlu padicha'mi tare fin den heme Emir, Ve ferman bam keleurfe itaat 
 
 Ideym. That is to fay, By the Truth of Jefus Chrift, 1 will can ft to be-execuhd all 
 the Orders and Commands , which Jhall be brought unto me from the Emgarour. My 
 Lord, 
 
 The Grand Seignor requires alfo an Oath of Allegiance of all the Bdjfa's, whom he 
 fends to the Frontiers of the Empire, as the Baffds of Grand Cairn, Bahylo/i, and 
 da, which is more than he exads of the other Governours of Provinces, which are 
 not npon the Confines of his Territories, and of whom he has no ground to be 
 afraid. 
 
 Let us now make our Entrance into the Quarter of the Eunuchs and the Ichoghns\ 
 whereof the Baths make a great part. 
 
 CHAP. VII. 
 
 Of the Baths of the Seraglio. 
 
 The Principal Heads. 
 
 The prodigious Jlrength of 'Body of a certain Ichoglan. The <SMofi 
 quey belonging to the Appartment of the Eunuchs. The Employ ■ 
 ments of the Dwarfs, and the SMutes. The Juperflition of the 
 Turks in the manner of paring their nails. The Colours forbidden 
 the Chrtfiians in li?hateyer they Tvear about their heads. Tl?e Ve- 
 fcriptionof the 'Baths. Certain abufes reform d. Why the Inhabit 
 tants of the Easlern Tarts do not make life of Taper upon an mde-, 
 cent account. Ihe Perfians more fcrupulous than the Turks. 
 They are great lowers of cleanlinefs. Certain Chambers njery com- 
 modious and diVertiVe. Tl?e ftritl prohibition of Mahomet for 
 any one to fuffer himfelf to be feen flark naked. A certain Earth 
 "tohich takes off the hair, and its dangerous effects. 
 
 TH E Baths defign'd for the Grand Seignor's own Perfon, and his principal 
 Officers, take up a great fpace of the Quarter of the. Eunuchs. The little Ovens, 
 whereby they are heated, called Kultyms, are adjoyning to the Appartment of 
 the Sara'i-houdafiy and fifteen Icboglans, the moft robuft that can be found, are 
 employ'd in keeping the fire going. They have the denomination of Kullyngis '> and 
 Five and twenty others, who are named Della^ are employ'd in the Baths, to (have 
 and rub the Body, as alio in applying Cupping-Glaffes to thofe who Hand in need 
 
 thereof 
 
Chap.VIl. Grand Seigmr's Seraglio. 41 
 
 thereof. Among the Kulkangis, he who is the moft ancient in that employment has 
 a pre-eminence and fuperiority over the reft, whom he many times commands to ex- 
 ercife themfelves in wraftling, and lifting a heavy Iron Barr with one hand. 
 
 There are three fueh Bars faften'd upon great Cramp-irons over the door that goes rbe prodighui 
 into the Baths j and the middlemoft of the three, as it is commonly reported, weighs a Jtrtngtb of Bodj 
 hundred O^s, which amount to Three hundred and fifty pounds, Paris weight, an «/ « «««» 
 Okfra weighing three pounds and a half, or thereabouts. There was heretofore one of c °S a ♦ 
 thofe Icboglans, of fb prodigious ftrength, that the Grand Seignor himfelf would 
 have the fatisfadion of feeing a tryal, whether he could with one hand lift up and 
 turn about that Iron-bar i which he did to the great aftonithment of the Prince, and 
 prefently after he en certain'd him with another demonftration of the ftrength of his 
 Arm. Over thofe three Iron-bars, there hung two Head-pieces of Iron, whereof one 
 was an inch in thicknefs, and the other about the eighth part of an inch. The fame 
 Icboglan did, in the Grand Seignor's prefence, at one blow of a Battle-Axe, cut through 
 the head-piece of an inch thick, and, at one blow with a Sabre, cleft the other to the 
 middle of it. 
 
 Oppofite to thofe Ovens are the Cocks,whereby the Waters are diftributed into the The Mofqutj 
 feveral Pvooms of the Baths i and I forgot to tell you, That before you enter into that belonging to 
 place, you rind a little Mofquey, adjoyning to the Appartment of the Saraikp-foudaf^ ^jjgg^; 
 where all the Ichoglans go to their devotions twice a day. If they fail the doing of it, 
 the Oda-bachi, who, in every Chamber, takes notice of their demeanours, calls them 
 to an account, and they are fure of the baffinado, as they are alfo for • any other fault 
 they commit •, and fometimes they receive the faid punifliment on the foles of their 
 feet, and, upon fome occafions to fuch a number of blowes, that the nails of their 
 toes come off i and that is the punifhment which is properly caU'd Drubbing. 
 
 ■ 
 
 Out of that Mofquey you pafs into a Gallery, adjoyning to the Baths, and there the The Employ* 
 Vijlis and the Geuges •, that is to fay, the Mutes and the Dwarfs are employ'd in fome mnt of the 
 work or other all day long. Some fpend the time in learning to make up Turbants, an ^ 
 wherein there is more work and difficulty than is imagin'd, efpecially in making up 
 the Grand Seignior's own Turbant, when he goes to the Divan. For then he takes an 
 extraordinary large one, as do alfo all the Officers of the fame Divan when they go to 
 Council : and I cannot make a better reprefentation of that kind of Turbant, then by 
 the form of our largeft fort of Citrals, if they be made hollow in the middle, fo as that 
 the head might enter into that hole. 
 
 Others are employ'd in (having.paring the nails, and other things of that kind. They 
 do not make ufe of any Sciiars for the nails, in Turkey, nor in any part of Afia \ it 
 being a thing forbidden by Mahomet in his Law, and accordingly they account the do- 
 ing of it a great fin. But they make ufe of a little Steel Inftrumenr, lomewhat like a 
 Pen-knife, and the only cutting part is the end of it, and they are dextrous enough 
 in the performance of that Office. It is theCuftome all over the Eaft, that the Barber, 
 who trims you, fhould alfo make up your Turbant, which is many times difcompos'd, 
 pare the nails of your hands and toes, and take away the filth out of your Ears : Fox 
 the 'Turks and all the Inhabitants of Afia are great lovers of cleanlinefs, and cannot en- 
 dure the leail naftinefs, either on themfelves, or thofe who come near them, as I (hall 
 give you an account anon. 
 
 And having fpoken fo much of the Turbant, it will not be unfeafonable, fcr me to Colours forbid- 
 communicate this Remark to you here, That in the Ottoman Empire, and all over Ara- & tn r j° e cbrifii- 
 bia, none but Mabumetans are permitted to make ufe of White, for the covering of their ^-^" r 
 heads - , whereas in Perfia, and all over the Great Mogufs Empire, men may take what " 
 Colours they pleafe themfelves. 
 
 I come now to the Great Bath,which is adjoyning to the Chamber of the Hamangi- t\n defcriptim 
 bachi^ who is the chief Overfeer of it, and which makes part of the Appartment of the »f tlit Bttbs. 
 Sefirlis, or the Grand Seignor's Laundry-men. The place where they put off their 
 Cloaths is a fpacious Louver, or Banquetting-houfe of Freeftone, high enough, and in. 
 
 one 
 
42 A Relation of the Chap.VIJ. 
 
 one of the moft eminent parts of the Seraglio. The Floor is pav'd with a very delight- 
 ful kind of Marble laid in fquare pieces > and it has two large Windows jutting out 
 upon the Gardens, fomewhat like Balconies, from which you have a Profpecl of the 
 two Seas. In the midft of that Dome or Louvcrjou find a Fountain, the water where- 
 of is recciv'd into two'Bafins, or Cifterns : The former, which is the hightif, and 
 withal the kaftj is of one piece of White Marble, having in it a little intermixture of 
 Red and Black Veins, and piercM through at fix ieveral places, for the reception of Co 
 many fmall Pipes of Copper, through which the water falls down into the other Balin, 
 which is alfb of Marble, of feveral pieces, and feveral colours. 
 
 Abu[es reformed. ' Within the Domo, there is a great number of Poles,which are difpos'd all about it, 
 and fupported by certain pieces of Iron coming out of the wall. Upon thofe Poles 
 they dry the Linncn, which they had us'd in the Bath i and of that Linneri there are 
 feveral forts. Heretofore, the Pages were allow'd only a long piece of Linnen Cloath, 
 which came only twice about their wafts : but upon obfervation made,that they abus'd 
 them, and that handfome young Lads playing together, fnatch'd that piece of Linnen 
 one from the other, purpofely to difcover their nakednefs, they ufe in the Baths only 
 fuch Garments of Linnen as are fow'd clofe above, and reach from the wafte down 
 to the feet, much after the manner of a Woman's Petti-coat. At their coming out of 
 the Bath, they have two other fbrts of Linnen to dry themfclves withal, of the large- 
 nefs of ordinary Table-Cloaths, whereof the one is Red, with a bordure of Silk of 
 three ringers breadth, which covers them, as foon as they are *>ut of the water, from 
 the wafte downwards to the Ham and the other is white, wherewith they rub them- 
 felves. For thefe two forts of Towels they have but one name, to wit, Pecbeta-* 
 ma I. 
 
 •inrll "i '■ r > I'lf^pfft ' 'A "4f\ Tflp'i '* a 1 ' ill' — 'piSitfliiri *■— yi} rtf^i/i" * Jum. aLTi" 
 
 wbythelc- On one fide of the Fountain, which is in the midft of the Domo, there is an en- 
 vantines do not trance into the bath, and near that is the Hall, where they uncloath themfelves in the 
 drctntly! **" w i nter " time ' A little Gallery which lies on the left hand, leads to the places defign'd 
 for the eafing of nature, and every feat has a little Cock, which fupplies them with 
 water to walh themfelves, after they have done. It is accounted a heinous iin among 
 them, to make ufe of Paper for that purpofe => and the reafon they give for it is this, 
 that, poilibly, the Name of God might be written upon it, or it might contain fome 
 Text of the Law, which would be a profanation of it, and confequently ought to be 
 avoided. Beiides, they have another opinion, That Paper is not fo proper fo wel] to 
 make clean that part, which the neceility of the Body does ordinarily fo much defile, 
 but that there may be fomething of ordure left i and that being oblig'd to prefent 
 themUlves before God with an abfolute Purity of Body and Mind, their Prayers could 
 not be heard, if they fhould not be wholly clean. 
 
 The Perfians The Prf 1 *" 1 are Y et morQ Scrupulous than the Turk* upon this account. For though 
 more fcrupulous they both agree in this, That their Devotions are ineffectual, nay indeed that they are 
 than the not in a condition to perform them, without crime, if they be not pure, as to Body and 
 Turks, JVIii-id * Yet the former are of a perfwafion, That the leaft ordure which, through 
 negligence or inadvertency, might remain upon their perfbns, or their garments, 
 would render their Prayers fruitlefs and criminal, which the Tnrks^ fomewhat lefs 
 fuperftitious as to that particular, will not acknowledge. 
 
 They are great Certain it is alfo, That in Perfia they are extraordinary Lovers of cleanlinefs i in- 
 loyers of clean- fomuch that I have obferv'd, That at Ifpaban, the Metropolis of that Country, where 
 (tnejs. t j ie § treets are not p av 'd 5 -when there falls a little Snow or Rain, which muft occafion 
 
 fome dirt, few people will come out of their houfes, unlefs they be fore'd thereto by 
 fome Concern of great importance. And when they do go abroad at fuch a time, at 
 the houfe door into which they are to enter, they put off their thooes, their upper- 
 Garment, the Cap which covers their Turbants => and if they have the leaft dirt or filth 
 about them, they think themfelves impure, and that it would be a difrefpedt to the 
 perfon whom they are to vifit. Nay, a Perfian fhall be very fcrupulous, and make a 
 great difficulty to receive a man into his houfe in foul weather •, and if any one pre- 
 
 fents 
 
Chap, VII. Grand Seignors Seraglio. 45 
 
 fents himfelf into that pleafure, he makes a fign to him with his hand to keep at a 
 certain diftance from him, in the place wherein he is to enter into difcourfe with him. 
 For if by chance, as he comes out of the Street, where there is fome dirt, and where 
 horfcs pafs to and fro, and may caft fome of it upon him, he has the leaft fpot of 
 any daggling about him , and afterwards touch the Perfon whom he comes to 
 vilit , this latter would be nagif, that is to fay, unclean, and thereupon be oblig'd 
 immediately to change his cloaths i fo great is the Superftition of the Ferfiahs, as to 
 that particular. 
 
 At the end of the Gallery,there is a door which gives you pafTage into three Cham- chamhrs vt$ 
 bers, which are fo many Baths for the ufe of the Grand Seignor's Quarter. There is d™ ertivt 
 adjoyning to the laft of thofe Chambers a fpacious place pav'd Checquer-wife with %^ mm ^ 
 Marble of different colours, and there the Ichoglans are trimm'd. This place has a 
 little eminency in the midft of it, from which there is a gentle defcent of all fides, that 
 the Water wherewith the Barbers warn their Heads and Beards may the more eafily be 
 carried off, and the place be alwaies kept clean. On both fides of the Wall, whereby 
 it is enclos'd, there is a great double Cock, with two Keyes belonging to it, which, 
 at the lame mouth, fupplyes them alternately with either hot water, or cold, and that 
 falls into a Bairn or Receptacle of White Marble, wherein three or four men may bathe 
 themfelves without any inconvenience, or trouble one to the other. There is alfo at 
 one of the ends a little Room of Black and White Marble, and there the Barbers, who 
 have no knowledge of any other ProfefTion, put up all their necefTary Utenfils and 
 Inftruments, as Razors, Hones, Balls, and thofe Irons wherewith they pare their 
 Nails : for as for Linnen, they do not ufe any ■■> and thofe who are to be. fhav'd come 
 in ftark naked from the Walk upwards, and are cover' d from thence downwards, 
 only With a C loath, which reaches to the Ankle. 'Tis a great Rarity to meet with 
 any one among thofe Barbers that knowes how to let blood, and their Lancets arc 
 much like the Fleams, wherewith our Farriers bleed Horfes. 
 
 Oppofite to the Chamber of the Barbers, there are three other Rooms arch'd with 
 Marble, the largeft whereof much furpafles in Eeauty thofe that are adjoyning to it. 
 The Floor of it is of white and black Marble,and the Walls are done about with fquare 
 pieces, that are white and blew, and in every one of them you find a Flower in em- 
 bofs'd Work, done to the Life, and which a man would take for enamell. Little La- 
 mines or Plates of Gold cover the junctures of thofe fquare pieces, and there cannot 
 any thing be imagin'd more pleafant and divertive than that Chamber is. In the Roof 
 , of it, there are feveral round holes, of about half a foot diameter, over which there 
 are little GlafTes made in the fafhion of Bells, order'd as the Venice-Looking-GlafTes 
 are, left any one Ihould have the curiofity, to get up to the Roof, and laying himfelf 
 upon his belly think to fee what is done in the Bath. The place has no light but what 
 it receives by the means of thofe holes, and while feme body is in the Bath : Eut efpe- 
 cially when they go out of it, the door is fhut, the better to keep in the heat, and to 
 prevent their being feen ■•> which might be, if inftead of thofe forementioned holes in" 
 the Roof, there were Windows below, according to our Mode. All the other Baths 
 have their Structures after the fame manner, and having no light but what comes at 
 little glaz'd holes, there is not any pafTage into it, but that of the door, to the end 
 that being prefently (hut, the heat might the better be kept within the Bath, and to' 
 prevent their being feen who are in it. 
 
 The Second Chamber is another Bath, but as to Beauty, it is much inferiour to the 
 other s And as for the third, there is fomething in it which is fingularly remarkable. 
 The Floor of it is layd as with a fort of fmall ftones, fo as that the foot cannot flip, 
 though it be wetted at their departure out of the Bath : And the whole Room is done 
 all about with fquare pieces, having in them flowers of embofs'd work, done to the 
 Life, and covered with Gold and Azure. This is the place into which the Grand Seig- 
 nor enters, when he comes out of the Bath i and he alwaies goes into it alone, when 
 he intends to lhave himfelf in thofe parts, which are not to be nam'd without immo- 
 defty. 
 
 Mahomet 
 
44 .A Relation of the Chap. VII. 
 
 Mahomet's Mahomet pronounces a Curfe upon thofe perfons who fuflfer. themfelves to be feen, 
 
 Prohibition to ^ n( | U p 0n a il thofe who look on them : And the ftridl obfervance of his Law requires, 
 bt feu na$ed. ^hat both Men and Women ought to (have themfelvcsj without ufing the affiftance 
 of any other hand. 
 
 An Earth that But rnoft of the Inhabitants of the EASTERN Parts, the Arabians, Tartars, and 
 takes off hair, tne Indians, make ufe of a more eafie expedient then the Razor, to get off hair. It is 
 * nd ttS ftft St ~ a certa i n Earth, which they mix with fome Orpiment, or Arfenick, and which be- 
 rom Effe s, com£S ^ as b utter; When they are in the Bath, and begin to fweat, they take of 
 that Earth, and therewith rub the parts, from which they would have the hair to fall, 
 and prefently after they muft be very careful to fee, whether it begins to fall, as one 
 would obferve a Fowl, whofe feathers he would take off, after it had been caft into 
 {calding water. For if that Earth be left too long upon the parts whereto it had been 
 apply'd, it burns and makes holes in the fleflj, the marks whereof will remain, fome- 
 what refembling thofe, which the Small Pox fometimes leaves behind it. Befides, the 
 skin of thofe parts, whereto this application is made, becomes in time as hard and 
 rough as Leather » and thofe ungrateful inconveniences have diverted the Turks and 
 Ferfians from ufing that Expedient. Nor do the Chilians of the Levantine Countries 
 make ufe of it, though they imitate the Mabumetanes in the Cuftome of frequenting 
 the Baths : But above all, in Perfia, none make ufe of that remedy, but the poorer fort 
 of people. The Ladies, not regarding the prohibition of Mahomet, employ their 
 Female Slaves for the performance of that Office > and with a fmall kind of Pincers 
 and twitchers, fuch as thofe, wherewith we take off the hair of the muflachoes, they 
 do, with a little more trouble, but lefs hazard, what that Earth does in lefs time, but 
 with more danger. Our Sultanejfes are yet too delicate to imitate the Ladies of Perfia •> 
 nay the men themfelves, in Turkgy,are not very forward to have that twitchM off with 
 pain, which the Razour can take off without any trouble. 
 
 CHAPJ 
 
Chap, VIII. 
 
 Grand Seignors Seraglio. 
 
 CHAP. VIII. 
 ; Of the Grand Seignor s Treafury, 
 
 The Principal Heads. 
 
 Noble ^elicks of Antiquity. 7he Turks cannot endure Figures re~ 
 prefenting either SMan or Beafl. The Chatnbers of the Treafury y 
 and their Wealth,. The blood of the Bafla's is one of the ^tyers 
 ftfhich enter into that Sea of the Treafury. 7he ufe of Aloes 
 Wood in Turkey. A fort of Bafins of a more commodious form than 
 ours, for the wajhing of the hands. Books and Candles of a kind of 
 TbdX of great rvalue. Coffers full of all forts of precious flones. 
 The precautions and ceremonies which are obferVd at the opening 
 of the Treafury. A magnificent Tiece of Tapijlry, therein the 
 Emperour Charles the Fifth^ is reprefented, in embofl'd Work. A 
 particular Relation of a BatTa named Ruftan. The heroick [enti- 
 ment of a Turk. The principal fources of the Wealth of the Em* 
 pire. How the Revenues of Egypt are employ 'd, 
 
 TH E Treafury of the Seraglio and the Ottoman Empire, the vaft Wealth there- 
 in contain'd, and the excellent order wherewith it is govern'd , required my 
 being a little more large upon that fubject. I (hall difcover all the Pavers, 
 which fall into that Sea, and may have fome refemblance to thole that enter 
 into the Caftian Sea, and are never feen to come out of it again. 
 
 Out of the Chamber, where the Grand Seignor (haves himfelf, you pafs into a Noble Relief 
 Gallery, which is Thirty paces in length,and between Nine and ten in breadth. There «f Antiquity 
 are, on the one tide of it, Six great Marble-Pillars, of Fifteen foot in height, and of 
 different colours, among which there is one of a very delightful Green, and that co- 
 lour makes the Turkj have a great elteem for it. You have under your feet in this 
 Gallery a Walk of large fquare Pieces of Marble, and the high-rais'd Fret-work thereof 
 is a Relick of Antiquity, and there are in it excellent Pieces of Painting after the Mo- 
 yiie^way, reprefenting divers Perfbns, and which fome conceive to have been made, 
 for the reception and entertainment of fome great Prince, in the time of the Greek\ 
 Emperours* 
 
 The 7«r^r, who have not among them either Gravers or Painters, in order to the rbi Turks kavi 
 making of any reprefentation of Man or Beaft, for which they have an averfion, have an avnfionfor 
 thought it much to endure thofe Figures, and not being able to refrain from dif- F'£f es re P re ' 
 figuring the heads, there is nothing left but the bodies, which is much to be regretted. j^Jaf Man6y 
 It may eafily be cenjeclur'd, That that Gallery was open on both fides, as being fd 
 hill to the Court-fide, and 'tis in the fnidft of the Wall, whereby it is enclos'd on the 
 other tide, that the Door of the Treafury (lands. * 
 
 The firft Treafury confifts in Four Chambers full of Riches and Rarities, The firft ^ chambers «f 
 contains a vaft quantity of Long-Bovves, Arrowes, Crofs-Bowes, Muskets, Fire-locks, the Trtafury and, 
 Sabres, Cymitars, and and other Arms of that kind , which are all fo many Ma- fair maltb, 
 tier-Pieces , that have been prefented , from time to time to the Turkifh Emperors. 
 
 C G i ) AH 
 
aS A Relation of the Chap.VIIL 
 
 All thefe Arms are either hung up at the Ceding, or faften'd againft the Wall \ but in 
 a pitiful condition, all over-run with rutt, and cover'd with dutt •, and the Grand 
 Seignorfuffers them to be fo neglcded, becaufe there come in daily Prefents of Arms 
 excellently wrought, the novelty whereof makes him forget the old ones i as alfo for 
 that it is the humour of the TarJy, not to make any great account of Curiofities, but 
 at the very time they are prefented with them. 
 
 The Second Chamber is a very fpacious Arched Structure, of the fame height and 
 architecture as that of the Bath, of which I gave you an account in the precedent Chap- 
 ter, where they go and uncloath themfelves in the Summer time : And there is no dif- 
 ference between them, fave only that this latt has no overtures in the Roof. That 
 place contains Six great Chefts, or Coffers, each of them of T welve foot in length, fix 
 in breadth, and fix in depth s and if the Covers were not broken to pieces, two men 
 would find it a hard matter to lift them, they are fo weighty. Thefe Coffers, which 
 are called Ambars, are full of all forts of Cloaths for the Grand Seignor's ufe, as Vetts, 
 rich Furres, Magnificent Turbants, and Cufhions embroider'd with Pearls. 
 
 Befides the Six Coffers before mentioned, there are Ei^ht others, which are but 
 eight foot in length, and four in bre-adth \ and thefe are rili'd with Pieces of Scarlet, 
 Englijh and Dutch Cloaths, of the finett forts, Pieces of Velvet, Gold and Silver-Bro- 
 kadoes, Embroyder'd Coverlets and Counterpanes for Beds, and other Rich Commo- 
 dities of that nature. As for the Bridles and Saddles cover'd with Precious Stones, 
 they are difpos'd upon fupporters of Wood or Iron, coming out of the Wall : and all 
 this Chamber is generally very well kept, and all things aie neat, and in good Order. 
 
 The Third Chamber is very fpacious, and is more like a great Hall. The firfi; 
 tiling that entertains your Eye, is a great Coffer, the in-fide whereof is divided into 
 three parts, and makes as it were three other Coffers, one upon the other : but they 
 are open'd all on the out-fide, fb as that if there be any thing look'd for in the under- 
 moft, there is no neceflity of ftirring the uppermoft. The lowermoft Coffer contains 
 thofe fumptuous Coverings for the Grand Seignor's Throne, of which I have fpoken 
 in the Defeription of the Hall of Audience. In the middlemoft are difpos'd the HouC- 
 fes, and Trappings, enrich'd with Embroidery, and fome of them with Pearls and 
 Precious Stones, which are us'd in great Solemnities. In the uppermoft Coffer, are 
 kept the Eridles, Breaft-Pieces, Cruppers, and Stirrups, which are recommendable up- 
 on the icore of the Diamonds, Rubies, Emeralds, and other Precious Stones, whereby 
 they are enrich'd : but the greateft part of them is cover'd witih 7»rj^/fc-Stones, which 
 they have the art of fetting excellently well. 
 
 The Blood of It is a mod aftonifiiing fight, to behold the quantity of thofe precious HarnefTes : 
 the Eafla's one but it is fuch only to thofe, who are ignorant, how the Grand Seignor replenishes his 
 
 "lhatUUilto Treafur y Withf ° 
 
 much Wealth. It happens thus, That there being a frequent morta- 
 the se** of the lity amongft the B^j(jiV,and others, who are Governours of Provinces, whether it be 
 Treafury. by a natural death, or a violent, and all they have in the World ^falling to the Grand 
 Seignor, as I told you ellewhere, and being brought into the Seraglio, there are or- 
 dinarily found, amongft their rich HarnefTes, fome Bridles cover'd with pretious Stones, 
 and thofe Bridles are brought into the Treafury. The Cafe is the fame with the Gold 
 and Silver ready coyn'd, and all the Jewels, and whatever elfe thofe Bajfas were pof- 
 fefs'd of. But as to their Saddles, which ordinarily, are cover'd with Plates of Gold 
 of the thicknefs of a Vucat^ they are put into the hands of the Imbrobor-bacbi, who 
 is the Matter of the Horfe, and come not within the Seraglio. 
 
 There are befides, in the very fame Chamber, feveral other Coffers, of different 
 Bulks, wherein there is contain'd abundance of moft precious things. Some of them 
 are full of rich Swords, adorn'd with precious Stones, as alfb of Sabres, which have 
 the fame Ornaments. For the Turks, when they are on Horfe-back, make ufe of both 
 Sabres and Swords, of a good length, and fomewhat broader than ours. They wear 
 the Sabre on one fide , and fatten the Sword, all along by the Saddle, as they alfb 
 do the Battle-Axe, yet fo as that thislatt pattes under their Thighs, which cannot in- 
 commodate them much, becaufe, when they are mounted, they ride with veryfhort 
 
 Stirrups. 
 
Chap, VIII. Grand Seignors Seraglio. 47 
 
 Stirrups. The Sides, and the Handles of the Battle-Axes which they carry in Tri- 
 umph, are alfo cover'd with precious Stones and in all their Accoutrements, the 
 Turks are Magnificent, and do not fpare for Money. When the Grand Seignor defigns 
 to honour a Baffa^ he fends him one of thofe Swords, or one of thofe Sabres, with a 
 Veft of Gold-Brockado, lin'd with fome rich Fur. But thefe fumptuous Pieces do but 
 pafs to and fro, in as much as that upon the death of the Bdffas. whofe Eftates tall to 
 the Grand Seignor, and confeqnently are brought into the Seraglio, they are full found 
 again intheTreafury,as in their Centre. 
 
 There are yet other Coffers fill'd with Amber-greece, Mm1^ } the precious Wood call'd ^Zt^iT 
 Lignum Aloes, and Sandal-wood. There is a certain fort of this Lignum Aloes, which Turkey, 
 is worth a thoufand Crowns the pound, according as it is fat, or Oyly, the moft Oy- 
 ly being always the belt, and the Turks are very expenfive in this Aloes Wood. When 
 fome perfons come to vilit them, and affoon as they are (ate down, it is their cuftom 
 to prefent them with a Pipe of Tobacco, with ibme Lignum Aloes in it, which is done 
 after this manner. They take of that Wood, according to the oylinefs of it, and con- 
 (equently its making a greater fumagation, the quantity of a Pea, or a fmall Bean, and 
 after they have moiiten'd it a little, they put it over a few Coals in a Chating-dilh, in 
 a kind of Perfuming-pot, which they prefent, one after another, to all the Company. 
 There comes out a thick Steam, or Exhalation, wherewith every one perfumes his 
 Head, and his Beard, and fometimes the in-fide of his Turbant, after which he lifts 
 up his hands on high, crying Elmcndela, that is to fay, Thanks- be to God. But before 
 they prefent them with the Perfuming-pot, there is fome Role-water brought in a VeC- 
 fel of Gold, or Silver, according to the Quality of thole who make the Villt. This 
 VefTel is commonly a foot in height, the lower part of it being about the bignefsof a 
 mans fift, and from thence growing gradually (mailer and (mailer to the top of it, 
 which is about the bignefs of ones little finger. At the top of it there is a little hole, 
 out of which comes the Rofe-water, wherewith they waih their hands and faces, and 
 then hold them over the fuffumigation of the Lignum Aloes, which not only dries up 
 the water, but alfo fticks fo much theclofer to the hair of the Head and Beard. 
 
 There are alfo in thofe Coffers abundance of Aromatical Simples , and precious 
 Drugs, Bezojxr-Sones, and ftores of Maftick^ wherewith the Sultanejfes, and the young 
 Maids of the Seraglio pafs away their time. They have of it perpetually in their 
 Mouths, and this Majlkk^ fweetens the Breath, and cleanfes the Teeth, upon which; 
 fcore they are the better belov'd. 
 
 There may be feen alfo in the fame Chamber, and in other Coffers, abundance of 
 Prate, both Gold and Silver, which is never us'd, the Grand Seignor having other 
 pieces, for his ordinary ufe, in the Kilar, whatever is ferv'd up to his own Table be- 
 ing altogether in Pourcelain, 
 
 There are, amongft other Pieces, feveral Balms and Ewers, whereof fome are en- Bafins of a mors 
 fich'd with feveral forts of precious Stones. Thofe Bafins are of a fafhion more com- fju^"^ 
 modibus than that of ours, audit is an evident Mark of the cleanlinefs of the Levan-fyf™ an 
 tines* They ate round, and about half a foot in depth, and cover'd as it were with 
 a Plate or Server, full of little holes, which makes the concavity of it of equal height 
 with the fides, and fo hides the dirtinefs of the water which lies at the bottom of it. 
 They do not rife after their refection, in Turkgy, till they have wafhM their Mouths 
 and their Hands, to do which they bring you Soap and warm Water ; and amongft 
 Perfons of Quality, they prefent Rofe-water, or fome other fwcet Water, into which 
 you put the corner of yourHandkercher. 
 
 They have alfo in thofe Coffers great Tapers, or Wax-Candles of above two foot Tdpers of a J$n& 
 in length, made of a certain very deir compofition, of a greyifh colour, which has°f£'**°f & mS 
 (bme refemblance to Wax, and is brought out of Ethiopia, every Taper amounting to 
 near a hundred Crowns. They are not us'd but only when the Grand Seignor goes to 
 Vilit the Sultaneffes , and then there are two of thofe Tapers lighted, and fet in 
 great golden Candlefticks, enrich'd with precious Stones. When they are a little above 
 half burnt out, the Negro-Eunuchs, who ferve in the Haran, light others, and, out 
 
A Relation of the Chap. VIII. 
 
 of civility, make a Prefent of the fore-mentioned remainders to the principal Women 
 attending on the Sultaneffes. 
 
 There is moreover in one of thofe Goffers, abundance of Clocks and Watches, 
 Ge/»w/z-wbrk, as alfo of Knives and Ink-horns, after the Turkjfb Mode, all thofe pieces 
 being the choice Productions and Mafter-pieces of great Artifts, and adorn'd with 
 pretious Stones. There is to fecn, in fine, all along the Walls, but cover'd with a 
 Scarlet Stuff, feveral Arms, after the lurkjfh-Mode, neatly kept in order, as Bowes, 
 Arrows, Targets, Battlc-Axes, excellently well wrought, and moft of thefe Pieces are 
 of a confiderable value. 
 
 But what is mod precious in that Chamber and tranlcends all the reft, is a ftjong 
 Coffer all of Iron-work, which contains another, of about a foot and a half fquare, 
 wherein there is a vaft Treafure. When this Coffer is open'd, you fee a kind of Gold- 
 Smiths Jewel Box,wherein are ranked all forts of Jewels of higheft value, as Diamonds, 
 Rubies, Emeralds, a huge number of excellent Jofazes^nd four of thofe Gems,call'd 
 Cats-eyes, which are fo beautiful, that they are not to be valu'd. Having fatisfy'd your 
 curiofity with the former, you come next to certain little Drawers full of feveral Jew- 
 els, great Roles of Diamonds, Pendants, other Rofes of Rubies and Emeralds, Strings 
 and Chains of Pearls and Bracelets. There ftands afide by it felf a Cabinet, where 
 are the Sorgouges, or the things wherein are faften'd the Heron-tops, which the Grand 
 Seignor wears in his Turbant. They are as it were little handles, made in the faffiion 
 of Tulips, covefd over with the moft precious Stones of the Seraglio, and 'tis into 
 this that the Heron-top enters, that rich Plume of Feathers, whereof I have elfewhere 
 given the defcription. Of thefc Handles, fome are higher and more precious than 
 others ; and my Overfeer of the Treafury aflur'd me, That, of all forts of them,great 
 and fmall,there are above a hundred and fifty. The leffer ones ferve only for the Cam- 
 pagne, and the great ones, which are the richeft, are referv'd for the Pomps and Mag- 
 nificences of the Court, and when the Grand Seignor marches in Ceremony to Con- 
 stantinople* If he has a defire to fatisfie his fight with the luftre of his precious Jew- 
 els, he Orders the Coffer to be brought into his own Chamber \ but if he calls for 
 fome particular Piece of the Treafury, he gives order to the Cbafnadar-bacbi, to fetch 
 it, and that Chief Officer of the Treafury cannot enter into it, without abundance of 
 myfterious precautions. 
 
 There aVe alwayes Sixty Pages, more or lefs, belonging to the Chambers of the 
 Treafury. The number of them is not fixt, but the Credit of the Capi-Aga, and the 
 Chafnadar-bacbi) may augment or diminilh it, according to their inclinations and in- 
 terefts. Unlefs they fall into difgrace, as he had done from whom I have fome part 
 of thefe Inftrudfions, they never go out of the Seraglio, but upon their advancement to 
 fome confiderable Government, or the fettlement of a handfome Penfion for their 
 maintenance => and lb, provided they do nothing amifs, they are well enough accom- 
 modated for their lives. The Chief Officer of the Treafury having receiv'd Orders 
 from the Grand Seignor to bring the Piece he would have, affembles all the Pages in 
 their Chamber, and fends for the Anakdar-Agaft, who has the Cuftody of the Keyes. 
 This laft having given three ftroaks with his hand upon the Drawer, wherein they are 
 enclos'd, takes them out of it, and following the Cbafnadar-Bacbi, attended by the 
 Sixty Pages, they all make their appearance together at the door of the Treafury. 
 
 The firft thing that is done is the untwifting of a Chain, which they had put there, 
 for the better fecuring of the Seal, which the Chief Officer of the Treafury had let 
 over the hole, and having found it entire, he orders it to be broken by the keeper of 
 the Keyes, and commands him to open. AfToon as they are got into the Chamber in- 
 to which the Cbafnadar-bacbi knowes they are to go, he fets himfelf down upon a low 
 Bench, and declares what Piece it is that the Grand Seignor requires. They there- 
 upon open the Coffer, wherein it ought to be, then they prefent it to the Cbafnadar- 
 bacbi, and, if he be defirous of that honour, he has the priviledge to be himfelf the 
 Bearer of it to the Grand Seignor. Then has lie a fair Opportunity to fecure fome- 
 thing that is precious to himfelf, if he has the dexterity to do it without any difcove- 
 iy. VV hen he is in the Treafury, he needs only fay, That the Grand Seignor defires 
 
 An iniftifhabU 
 Coffer of til 
 forts of precious 
 Stones. 
 
 Precautions and 
 Ceremonies ob- 
 ferv'd. at the 
 opening of the 
 Treafury. 
 
Chap, VIII. Grand Seignor's Seraglio. 49 
 
 alfo the Piece, which he has a mind to convert to his own ute, and cauling all to be 
 immediately carried to his own Chamber, he there leaves what he would keep, and 
 prefents to the Prince only that which he had commanded to be brought hjm. Not 
 but that whatever is receiv'd into the Treafury, and whatever goes out of it, is exactly 
 fet down and enroll'd by the Haznaquatib, or Clerk, who keeps the Regiilers => and 
 the Cheat might be eafily difcover'd, when at the quitting of his Charge the Cbafna- 
 dar-bacbi gives an account of all things to his fucceflbr. But it ordinarily happens, 
 that they are friends, and that the Chafnadar-bachi, who does not leave his Charge, but 
 upon his advancement to that of the place or. the Capi-Aga, in cafe he fhould dye, of 
 be exalted to a higher Dignity i or upon his being made a Bajfa and Governbur of a 
 Province, propofes him, among the Pages, for whom he has the greateit affection, and 
 who is his Confident, as a Perfon qualify'd for the Charge of Principal Officer of the 
 Treafury. Accordingly, being his Benefa&or, he gives in his Accompts as he pleafes 
 himfelf, and delivering unto him an Inventory of what is in the Treafury, he withal 
 produces a Memorandum of the Pieces, which had been taken out thence, during his 
 Surintendency, by the Grand Seignor's Orders. The Clerk of the Treafury, might, 
 notwithflanding their intelligence and combination, difcover the intrigue 5 but being 
 one of the eldelt Pages of the Chamber,and in a capacity of advancement to the Charge 
 of Chafnadar-bachi, he (huts his eyes, and fo avoids the creation of Enemies, thinking 
 it more prudence, to be appeas'd, by the Prefents he receives as well from him who 
 enters into the Charge, as from him who quits it. But thefe Thieveries are not very 
 often committed, and if there were but the leait difcovery made thereof, a fevere pu- 
 nilhment would foon be inflicted both on the Author of them, and his Complices. 
 
 As to the little Cheft or Coffer, wherein the moft precious Jewels are kept, it is 
 impolTible to get any thing out thence : for when the Grand Seignor would have any 
 Piece taken out of it, he orders the Coffer it felf to be brought into his Pretence, by 
 the principal Officer of the Treafury, accompany'd by the Keeper of the Keyes, and 
 all the Pages ; and before he opens it, he takes notice whether the Seal be entire. After 
 he has taken what he deiir'd, the Coffer is lock'd up in his Pretence, the Seal is fet 
 upon it, and it is carry'd back into the Treafury with the fame Ceremony. Then do 
 the Sixty Pages receive, ordinarily, (bme demonftrations of the Grand Seignor's Libe- 
 rality, which may amount to ten or twelve Purfes, to be divided amongft them. 
 
 We are not yet got out of the third Chamber of the Treafury, which may pafs for ^f^ 1 ^ 
 one Spacious Hall, the middle part whereof is taken up by a Scaffold, of nine or ten Charles the 
 foot fquarc, the height, the length, and the breadth being equal. This Scaffold is Fifth is rflref 
 cover'd and {unrounded with a piece of Tapiitry of Gold and Silk, and, in the upper fented. 
 part of it, there is, in embofs'd Work, the Effigies of the Emperour Charles the Fifth, 
 feated on a Throne, having in one hand, a Globe, and in the pther, a Sword, fur- 
 rounded by all the Grandees of the Empire, doing him homage. At the bottom of 
 the faid Piece of Tapeitry, there may be read certain Verfes in G^fc^ characters : And 
 the upper part of the Scaffold is full of Books in the Latine, French, Italian, high Ger- 
 mane, Englifh, and other European Languages. There are alfo fome Treatifes upon the 
 fiibjedt of Navigation, together with two Globes, the Celeftial, and the Terrettrial, 
 and fome Geographical Maps drawn upon Velom : whence it may be con jectur'd, that 
 they were all taken at Sea, by fome Jurktfh Pirate, and tent as a Prefent to the Grand 
 Seignor. But not being carefully look'd after, the duft has quite fpoyl'd both the 
 Tapeftry, and the Books, and fo they remain there as a Monument of fome Victory 
 gain'd over the Chriftians. 
 
 The Fourth Chamber of the Treafury is very dark, and has no other light than A remarkable 
 what it receives from a little Garret-Window, which looks into the Court, and has stor y °f ^ 
 three ftrong Iron-bars, one over the other. Over the Door, there are thefe words en- Ba ^ a Rufian ' 
 grav'd, in the T'urkijh Language j Mony acquird by the diligence of Rujlan. Take here 
 an account of what occafions this Monument, which they were pleas'd to eredt , to 
 perpetuate the memory of a Grand Vizir, as I have been told it, by teveral Perfons in 
 Conjiantinople. He was the Son of a Cow-keeper, and had follow'd the fame Employ- 
 ment himfelf : but he had a Genius that might become a Perfon of the higheft Extra- 
 ction, and which rais'd him to the Charge of Grand Vizir-, and the honour of being 
 
 Son- 
 
A Relation of the Chap.VIII. 
 
 Son-in-law to Solyman. He had many traverfes of fortune, and was for fome time out 
 of Favour : but in fine, Solyman, who had great Affairs to manage, and was engag'd 
 in a War with Terfia, coming to a little indigency of Mony, fent for Rujian, and be- 
 ftow'd on him the Superintendency of his Revenues. He knew him to be a man of 
 great Abilities, and capable of putting them, in a fhort time, into a good pofture i and 
 accordingly his pains and diligence in the management thereof prov'd fo fuccefsful, 
 that he prefently rill'd Solymans Coffers, and re-eftablilh'd the Affairs of the Empire. 
 
 the Htrohk Upon which occafion I (hall here fet down a thing which is ftill frefh in the remem- 
 Stntimnt oj a brance of many lur]^, who receiv'd it from their Fathers. The Turks have fo great a 
 Turk. Z eal for the welfare of the State, that one of the Grandees of the Port , an Enemy of 
 
 Rujians, and one, who, upon other occafions, would gladly have ruin'd him, pro- 
 tefied to one of his Confidents, That, though it were in his power to do him an ill 
 turn, yet he would not do it then, becaufe he had, by his Induftry and Labours, up- 
 held the State, which he retriv'd from the Precipice of deftru&ion, and was in a fair 
 way to make a confiderable augmentation of its Revenues. This generous and heroick 
 Sentiment in the Soul of a Turk,, who at his rirft rife was but a limple Slave, would 
 meet with but few Examples amongft Chrifiians. 
 
 But, to reaffume our difcourfe concerning the Fourth Chamber of the Treafury. It 
 is full of Cherts of two foot in length, and a breadth and depth proportionable there- 
 to, fortify'd with plates of Iron, and made faft, each of them, with two Chains. The 
 number of them is not always the fame, becaufe the Mony is coming in, and going 
 out of that Chamber, and the Coffers are tranfported thence according to the occur- 
 rent exigencies, for the payment of the Janizaries, and the maintenance of the Ar- 
 mies. 
 
 the principal All the Gold and Silver which is brought into the Tfeafury rites out of the Reve- 
 Somes of the nues of the Empire,and out of the Sale of what Goods the Rajfa's leave at their depar- 
 malth of the ture out of this World. As to what is rais'd out of the Empire,which dilates it fclf Co 
 Empire. f ar j nt0 me t fj ree 0 f our g reat Continent,and comprehends fo many Kingdoms,it 
 may be eafily imagin'd, that it mult fupply the Treafury with vaft Sums > but it is not 
 fo eafie to ascertain them. Its Revenues confift principally in the collection of the 
 Tributes, and in the Cuftomes : and the three Tefterdars, or Treafurers-General, give 
 an account to the Grand Vizir of the Receipts of the Provinces. That Principal Mi- 
 nifter has the cuftody of one Key of that fourth Chamber of the Treafury, and the 
 firft Tefterdar has that of another, and befides that, it is always feal'd with the Grand 
 Seignor's Seal. It is not ordinarily open'd, but upon thole days, on which the Divan 
 fits, that is,on Council-days, either for the reception of Money into it, or for the ta- 
 king of any 6ut, to defray the Charges of the Empire. 
 
 What is Co receiv'd into it is for the moft part in Silver ; and as to the Species of 
 Gold Coins that are brought into that Chamber, they come from four Sources, two 
 whereof are upon a Foreign account, and the other two upon that of the Country. 
 One of the two former confifts in the Commerce of the French, Englifh, Dutch, Ita- 
 lians, Mofcovites, and Polanders, who bring in Ducats out of thofe Provinces. The 
 other is the annual Tribute, which the Cham of the LefTer Canary, the Princes of 
 Tranjylvania, Moldavia, and Walachia, theRepublick of Ragufa, and part of Mingrtlix 
 and RuJJia, are to pay the Grand Seignor in Gold, which amounts to very great 
 Sums. One of the two Sources of the Country proceeds from what is found upon 
 the removal of the Bajfas, whereof the very coined Gold makes the beft part •, the 
 other, from the Revenue of Egypt, where there is an annual coinage of a certain num- 
 ber of Sequins, according to the quantity of Gold, which is brought thither out of 
 Ethiopia, and being coin'd into Sequins, is all convey'd thence into the Treafury. 
 
 the Revenues The Revenue of Egypt may amount yearly to twelve millions of Livers, [that is, 
 "/"Egypt hoW about one million and two hundred thoufand Pounds Sterling] which muft be divi- 
 qnployd. ded into three parts. Five millions of the twelve, are brought into the Grand Seig- 
 nor's Treafury. F our millions of the forefaid Sum, are employ'd in the maintenance 
 of the Officers and Soldiers of that Kingdom : And the other three are defign'd for 
 
 the 
 
Chap.lX. Grand Seignor's Seraglio. 
 
 the rich Prefent, which the Grand Seignor fends every year to Mecha, for the Expen- 
 ces which relate to Religious Worfhip, and to fill the Ciiterns of Arabia, which are 
 fupply'd with Water, brought by Land, many days Journeys. 
 
 Of the five Millions which are brought into the Seraglio, the grcateft part is in Se- 
 quins, according to the quantity of Gold, which the AbyJJincs bring into Eg)ft, and 
 the reft in Dutch Rix-'Dol'ars. All is brought together into the Coffers of the fourth 
 Chamber of the Publick Treafury. But as to the Sequins, they are carried into the Se- 
 cret Treafury, which it is time for us now to open, and give the Reader an account 
 of, according to the description which has been made to me thereof, by two men, 
 whom their Employments oblig'd to enter into it often. 
 
 CHAP. IX. 
 Of the Secret Treafury. 
 
 The Principal Heads* 
 
 A Vault under ground, into which felo Terfons have accefs. The great 
 frugality of the Emperour Amurat. Ibrahim, his Succejfor, 
 chargd -frith eVd Condufi. The Grand Seignor's precautions for 
 the fecurity of his Jreafure. His Liberalities to the Grandees 
 of the Tort. 
 
 Within the fourth Chamber of the Treafury, you find a door laid all a Vault 'under] 
 about with good ftore of Iron-bars, which opens the firft paffage, to ground, into 
 the place that contains the Grand Seignor's Secret Treafure. It is ft™ 
 never open'd, but when he himfelf has a mind to enter into it ; and bavt acci ■ 
 he do's not enter into it, but when the Grand Vizir advertifes him, 
 that it is time for him to do fo, and that there is a confiderable Sum to be carried in. 
 In the firft place, by the light of Torches they go down a Stair-Cafe of ten or twelve 
 {reps, at the bottom of which, after an advancement of feven or eight paces further, 
 they find a fecond Door, fortify'd with Iron-work as the former, but much lefs, 10 
 that a man is obligM to ftoop ere he go into it. When it is open'd, and that they have 
 made their entrance through it, as if they had pafs'd through a Wicket, they are un- 
 der a great Vault, where they find a great many Coffers, of the fame largenefs, as thofe 
 of the Chamber we came laft out of. 
 
 In thofe Coffers they have, for thefe many years, layd up all that was not expend- great [ruga* 
 ed upon the Publick account, of the great Revenues of the Ottoman-Momxchs, and fo li V °f th J Em * 
 it may be call'd his Private Exchequer, into which there is nothing but Gold has en- e 
 trance, all the Silver being carried into the other Treafury, to be thence taken out again 
 and difpos'd of as occafion requir'd. After the death of Amurat, Ibrahim, his Succeffor 
 in the Throne, found in that Treafury four thoufand Bags, which they call Kizes,zn& 
 every Bag contains fifteen thoufand Ducats of Gold, which amount to thirty thou- 
 fand Crowns, and thofe redue'd to our Pounds, come to thirty Millions ofer/z'«g.'Twas 
 the fame Amurat (a prudent and valiant Prince, a man of great Parfimony, and as 
 great Conduct in Military Affairs, of whom I have often had occafion to make men- 
 tion) who enter'd into a War againft the King of Perfia, and befieg'd Bagdet, or Ba- 
 bylon, which he took on the 22 th of December, 1638. I remember, that I was then 
 but five days Journey from that place, in the Deferts of Arabia, as having left Aletyo, 
 
 rat. 
 
 1 
 
A Relation of the Chap. IX. 
 
 in order to my going to Balftra, and that of the Threefcore and five dayes, which the 
 Caravan fpcnt in that Journey, tor nine of them, we were deftitute of Water, which 
 muft needs prefs very hard, both on the Men and the Camels. 
 
 Ibrahim Ibr.ibim, therefore, at his coming to the Crown, found, in the fecret Treafury, that 
 
 cLrgd with prodigious quantity of Gold, whereto he could not make any augmentation-, nay 
 ill management foine, on the contrary, are of opinion, That he was fore'd to ufe fomc part of if, 
 oftheTrejfnry. througn his ill Conduct of the Warr of Candid. True it is, That the long continu- 
 ance of that Warre made a great hole in the Revenues of the Empire. => but there arc 
 Two preat Reafbns, which divert me from giving abfolute credit, to fuch as affirm, 
 That thofe Exigencies reach' d the Secret Treafury. For, in (hort, it is as 'twere a 
 fundamental Law among them, That, before any thing is taken out thence, it is re- 
 quifite, the Empire (hould be in imminent danger of ruine •, And it is manifeft, 
 That though the Turks could not reduce Candia under their Jurifdiction, yet their 
 Empire was fo far from being near its decadence, that it Hill continu'd powerful. 
 Befides, it is to be obferv'd, That when the Grand Seignor lofes a Battel, it is a dis- 
 advantage to his Provinces, upon the fcore of their being thereby depopulated, and fo 
 much the lefs cultivated •, but that it is an advantage to his Coffers, in regard there's 
 fo much the lefs comes out of them. The reafon of it is evident, becaule he payes the 
 Veteranes, or Souldiers of long Handing, feven or eight Ajpers a day, and that thofe 
 cf the new-rais'd Forces do not ftand him in above one and a half, or two at the 
 moft •, their pay augmenting with the time, anfwerably to their fervices, and the 
 Prince's good Pleafure. Whereto it is to be added, That when an Emperour dies, his 
 Succeffor augments the pay of the Janizaries^ by an Afar, or two, per diem. 
 
 It muft be acknowledg'd indeed, That there died a great number of Turks in the 
 Warr of Candia : but it is certain alfo, That if we confider the great number of King- 
 domes and Provinces, whereof the Empire confilts, among which there are feme very 
 fertile, and very well peopled, it is an eafie matter to raife numerous Armies, and to 
 recruit them, when they have been weakned, by a Defeat, or by fome Sickneis, which 
 often happens among them. Upon thefe two grounds, I cannot be indue'd to be- 
 lieve, that Ibrahim was oblig'd to make any diminution of the Secret Treafury : but I 
 am very apt to believe, that he made not any great additions thereto, becaufe he had 
 not either the good Conduct, or good Fortune of Amurat, and ordinarily, the one 
 avails not much without the other. 
 
 All the Gold that lies interr'd under that Vault is in Leather-bags, every Bag con- 
 taining Fifteen thoufand Ducats^ that is Seven thoufand five hundred pounds jierling : 
 and 'tis with his own hand that the Grand Seignor puts his Seal to them, which is 
 the fame that his Predecelfors had us'd before him, fave only the name, which muft 
 be that of the Prince then reigning. Amurat's Seal had thefe words graven upon it, 
 
 Nafrum mm allahi abd'ihil melekil JMouratb : Which fignifies, The af- 
 fiflance of God is upon his Servant the Emperour Amurath. 
 
 And this is the manner how the Bags of Gold are brought into the Secret Treafury. 
 All the Gold and Silver which come into the Seraglio, is hrft carried into the Cham- 
 ber of the Treafury, and each of them is difpes'd into the Coffers defign'd for them. 
 When there is as much Gold as will amount to two hundred Kizes, the Grand Vizir 
 gives notice of it to the Grand Seignor, who appoints a day, for the difpofal of it in- 
 to the Secret Treafury. The day being come, the Grand Seignor, led under the Ann 
 by the Cbafnadar-bacbi, who is on the left hand, which is accounted the more honou- 
 rable amongft the Turkey and by the Seligdar-Aga, who is on the right, comes into 
 the Chamber of the Treafury, where the Sixty Pages expect him, ranked in order on 
 both fides, with their hands crofs their Breatis. The Grand Seignor, having pafs'd 
 through the Chamber, and order'd the Hrlt Door of the Secret Treafury to be open'd, 
 enters into it, by the light of feveral Torches of white Wax, and is fcllow'd by the 
 Pages, two by two, till they are within the Vault, into which the Bags are brought, 
 ty'd with a Silk-ftring. Upon the firing they put a piece of red foft Wax, whereto 
 the Grand Seignor fets his Seal himfelf, which is upon a Gold-Ring, wherein are en- 
 graven 
 
 W)e Grand 
 Seignor's Vrl- 
 cautions for tht 
 ficurity of his 
 Treafury, 
 
ChapjX. Grand Seignors Seraglio. 52 
 
 graven the words before-mentioned, with the name of the Prince then reigning, after 
 which they put the Bags into the Coffers, which are all double chain'd. 
 
 Before they come out of the Vault, the chief Officer of the Treafury, does ordinarily H ^ Lihygfc 
 make this Complement to the Grand Seignor j Seadetlu padichatrtl eumijd (tkr *" w ** **» 
 qu'ibou bendelerignus eu^re ihfan chert jf gnus i%har idejis .-That is to fay, tbt Port, 
 <yl4y Emperour, *toe hope, that you icill make a difcoVery of your Li- 
 beralities to your SlaVes. According to the humour the Grand Seignor is then 
 in, he orders, That there fhould be a distribution of Twenty or Thirty Purfcs, amongft 
 all thofe vvho have accompany'd him, every Piwfe, as I told you before, amounting 
 to Five hundred Crowns. The Grand F>'z/r, and the other Grandees of the Port, 
 are permitted to enter into the Chambers of the Trealury, where the fumptuous Har- 
 nefles and the Precious Stones are kept, when the Grand Seignor comes thither him- 
 felf •, but they are not to go as far as the Secret Treafury. They flay for him in the 
 Fourth Chamber, when he is to come out of the Vault, and then he orders the Coffer 
 of his Jewels to be opened, to (hew them the moft precious things there are in it. 
 And whereas there are alwayes fome Favourites attending there, as alfo divers other 
 perfons, whom the Prince looks upon kindly upon the fcore of their merit, it feldom 
 happens, but that they all receive fome Prefent or other from him, and he makes not 
 any, but what is of very considerable value. The Treafury being fhut up, the Grand 
 Seignor returns to his own Quarter, and all the Grandees accompany him to the Gate 
 of it. 
 
 (H 2) CHAP. 
 
•>4 A Relation of the Chap. X. 
 
 CHAP. X. 
 
 cTf the Mean->, which the Grand Seignor makes life of, t6 
 augment his Treafures, beildes what is done, by the 
 ordinary Revenues of the Empire. 
 
 The Principal He ads. 
 
 The Prefents made by the Jaffa's to the Grand Seignor, fthen thy 
 enter into their Charges. The Trade driven by the Jews <very 
 . hazardous to them. The extraordinary Wealth of the BafiVs. 
 The great Advantages of the Chaznadar-Bachi, and the Tdges 
 of the Treasury. The prohibition of lending SMony upon intereft. 
 The Pertians but poor Cafutfts. Formalities obferVd in Turkey 
 about Schedules. 
 
 Elides what may be left every Year in the Treafury, or Exchequer, out of the 
 ordinary Revenues of the Empire, after all charges deducted, the Grand 
 Seignor has Two other Expedients very conducive to the augmentation of 
 both the Treafuries, to wit, the entrance of the Bajfa's upon their Govern- 
 ments, and their removal out of them, whether it be by fome difgrace, or by their 
 natural, or violent deaths. 
 
 All the Buffo's, on whom the Grand Seignor beftowes Governments, and generally 
 Vrtfents te\be a ^ cn0 ^-> wno areremov'd out of the Seraglio, upon their advancement into Charges, 
 Grand Seig- are oblig'd, before they take pofleffion of them, to make him fome Prefents, every 
 nor, upon thsir one, anfwerably to the benefit he has receivM from the Prince. For example, the B<t(J* 
 advancements. 0 f Cairo, alfoon as ever he is nominated to that Government, knowes, that two Mil- 
 lions of Livers, that is, redue'd to the Englijb account, two hundred thoufand pounds 
 jhrli/ig, will hardly make good the Prefents, which are expected from him at the Port, 
 that is, thofe due to the Grand Seignor himfclf,and to the principal Sultaneffes j as alfo 
 to the Moitfti, die Grand Vizir , the Caimacan, and other Perfbns of Credit in the 
 Court, to whom he is engag'd for his advancement to that Charge, and of whom he 
 may itand in need for the future. The Prefent he makes the Grand Seignor hittiftlE 
 amounts to Five hundred thoufand Crowns, and the reft will come to Two hundred 
 thoufand. Add again to that, Five hundred thoufand Crowns, which will be ex- 
 pended in the BaffJs equipage, and fo, before he fets his foot in Cairo, his own Purfc, 
 or thofe of his Friends, will be drain'd of Three Millions and fix hundred thoufand 
 Livers. 
 
 tfx hazardous When he comes out of the Seraglio, if he want much of the aforefaid Summe, there 
 Trade \f the is a neceility of borrowing $ and if the purfes of his Friends cannot do it, thofe of the 
 Jews. Jerves are- Kadily-open'd for h-is fupply. They run a great hazard, upon hopes of the 
 
 great profit of making Cent, per Cent. intereft,which the Baffa does promife them. And, 
 to be the fboner reimburs'd of the Money they have fo hazarded, left his Government 
 be but a fhort one, they teach him a thoufand leud wayes, to fuck out the People's 
 blood, and particularly to harafs the poor Cbrifiians. If the Baffa s can but quietly 
 enjoy their Governments, for one year, nay for fix Months, the J ewes make a good 
 hand of it, and recover the Summes they had advane'd. But, on the other fide, they 
 run a great hazard, in regard that it happens, many times, the Grand Seignor fends 
 for the head of a Bajfa, before he has had time enough to fettle himfelf in his new 
 
 Govern- 
 
Chap.X. Grand Seignor's Seraglio. 55 
 
 Government 3 and then, they who have lent him Mony are not to hope ever to reco- 
 ver any part of it. 
 
 From what has been faid, it may eafily be concluded. That the greateft part of the 
 Mony of the whole Ottoman Empire, is in the Grand Seignor's hands, and among the 
 Jems i I mean the Jewes of Conjiantinople. For as to thofe who live in the Provinces, 
 the world goes but ill with them, and they are in a much more wretched condition, 
 than the Christians in regard they do not follow any thing of Husbandry : and their 
 inclinations being altogether bent for Traffick, and the management of the publick 
 Taxes or the Cuitcmes, 'tis impoiilble there lhould be employment for them all. 
 
 The Grand Seignor therefore receives very confiderable Summes from the Bajfa\ 1 he txtrmiU 
 and other perfons, on whom he beftowes Charges, even before they have taken pof- "^Bafla'f ^ 
 fellion of them. But that amounts to little or nothing,in comparifon of the advantages 
 which he makes, upon their removal out of them, and efpecially when they have had 
 a fair time to gather Treafures, by their infupportable exactions from the people. 
 Some of thefe Sofia's have come to that exceffive Wealth and Power, that their Reve- 
 nues were equal to thofe of many great Princes. Such was the fortune of one Macb- 
 mat, Beglierbeg of Europe, under the Reign of Mahomet the Second-, and that, of the 
 Grand Vizir, Nafinf, under Acbmet the Firft. At the death of the latter, there were 
 extraordinary R.iches found in his Houfe, in Silver, Gold, and Jewels, and all was 
 brought to the Seraglio, along with his head. 
 
 It may eafily be conjeclur'd, by the number of the greater and leffer Governments., 
 whereof the Empire confifts, that there is a confiderable mortality amongft thofe, who 
 derive their Charges and Fortunes from the pure Munificence of the Grand Seignor, 
 and whofe acquilitiuns thereupon falling to him, mult of neceflity make va(t additio- 
 nals to the Seraglio. But betides thofe. who are gently convey'd out of this World , by 
 a natural death, there hardly paffes a year, but violent death comes and ads its part, 
 and upon the leaf! jealoufie, or any fantaftick apprehenlion the Grand Seignor may 
 have, a Bajfa receives a peremptory Order to ftretch out his Neck, and he is immedi- 
 ately ftrangled. In the next Chapter, 1 lhall give the Reader an Account, of the for- 
 mality and ceremony, which is obferv'd upon that occafion, where he will rind fome- 
 what worth his remarking => and I think I may confidently affirm, That they Who 
 know it is the cuftome, to itrangle thofe, whofe Lives the Grand Seignor would take 
 away, know not all the Particulars obfervable in that Action. 
 
 ~4,.-> • ..!,'.;•.*• ' . ',-rii /'n;? ! '> '< ttl&Zi 'jfi? Jft.>..->0'i'i ti'Ail •< ,"i«WM.n lv- ». «*j ^ ■ i , 
 
 Affoon as a Bajfa, or ether Grandee of the Port is dead, howe're it came to pafs, ihe EsHa's , 
 and an Inventory of his Goods taken, of which by the Lawes of the Country the Prince Goods brought 
 is the only Keir, all is carried away into the Seraglio, and the BaWag% bring it in Cof- ' 
 fers to the Door of the Treafury. The Chafnadar-bacbi, having difpos'd them into one 
 of the Chambers, Commands the Locks to be broke open, and the Coffers to be emp- 
 tied in his prefence i and 'tis then, that as well he himfelf, as the Pages of the Trea- 
 fury endeavour to make their advantages of that Rich Booty. For there being Ordi- 
 narily, amongft the other things, Jewels of great value, fuch as that wherein the He- 
 ron-tops are faften'd in their Turbants, or a Ponyard enrich'd with precious Stones, 
 or fome Carcanet of Pearls, if one or other of thofe Pages can make a dextrous arid 
 clean conveyance of fome Piece, 'tis his own, and he puts it to what elfe he has in 
 Stock, reflecting on what he has to do, at his departure out of the Seraglio, in order to 
 his eftablifhment in fome Charge, and the great Expences he muft be at upon that ac- 
 count. The Cbafnadar-bacbi, who does his work firft of all, and with more liberty, 
 does fbmetimes connive at what he fees done by the others, remerhbring that he has 
 been as they are, and was then glad, that he was not reprov'd for fo doing. Yet if 
 he perceives that any one of them has fecur'd to himfelf a piece of great value, affoon 
 as he is got to his Chamber, he fecretly fends for him,and makes him reftore it, paying 
 him one half of its worth, and fo keeps it himfelf. 
 
 1 1 
 
 the great ad- 
 
 There are yet other great advantages accrewing to the Chief Officer,- and the Pages, vantages offye 
 from thofe things which are brought into the Seraglio, upon the death of the Bajfa s. and the 
 When the Ckajnadar-bacbi has advertis'd the G?and Seignor, that, in the Coffers, which p ag i S \f t f, t 
 
 had Treaf»ry. 
 
^ 1 , ... - .... — — .. ■ ■ .- ... I . ■ J . -, 
 
 maar ^6 ^ Relation of the Chap. X. 
 
 hid been brought in, there were many things not fit for the Service of his Highnef\ 
 and that it we're better to put them off, before they were injur'd by the moifture tit 
 the duiV, the Prince gives his permiiTion for the (ale thereof, and thereupon they take 
 out of the Treafury what they do not account worthy of a place there. Immediately, 
 they fend for the Bazarcan-bachi, or Chief of the Merchants, who is the belt skill'd in 
 thofe things, and who, in the pretence of the Cbafnadar-bachi, and the Pages of the 
 Treafury, fets a value on every piece, to their fatisfa&ion •, for he does not prize it at 
 above half the worth. All the Jewels that Will bear a good price, and all the preci- 
 ous ftones are difpos'd into the Treafury, and they expole to lale only things of lefs 
 value, jet fuch as are worth much, as Trappings for Horfes, Ponyards Sabres, gam ilh'd 
 with Gold, garments, rich Furres, Safches, Turbants, and other things of that nature, 
 all the pieces being valued, the Chapiadar-bachi fets alide the belt of them, to be fent, 
 together with the value fet upon them, to the principal perfons of the Seraglio, with 
 whom he is glad to hold a fair correfpondence, and they pay for them the mote Wil- 
 lingly, becaufe they have them at an eafie rate. The reft is diftributed among the Pa- 
 ges, according to the valuation, and they having made choice of fuch things as they 
 will keep themfelves, fend away what they do not like, to be fold in Cotijiantuwjtle, by 
 the Halvagis, wherein they alfo make a vaft advantage, conlidering the apprifement \ 
 not accounting what the fame Halvagis may hedge in for themfelves, as a compenfati- 
 On for their trouble. 
 
 When there is fuch a fale made, the jewes are alwaies waiting about the great Gate 
 of the Seraglio, not daring to ccme too near, for fear of a chaftifcmcnt ot the Baltir.a* 
 do, from the Kapigis, which they are very free to give them. They Hand in expo 
 elation of thefe Halvagis^ with their bags full of Ducats and Kyals, and make the beft 
 bargains they can with them. Thefe falcs are ftldom made above once in two years, 
 and the leaft of them does ordinarily exceed five hundred thoufand Crowns, nay Tome 
 have amounted to eight hundred Thoufand. The Grand Seignor is foon advertis'd, 
 wh;}t money has, been rais'd by the fale, and giving orders tor the difpofal ot it into 
 the Treafury, he at the fame time beftows ten or twenty Purfcs on the principal Of- 
 ficer, and the Pages of the Treafury. He does not make them that Prefent out of any 
 other defign, then to (hew his Grandeur, as being not ignorant of the advantages they 
 * have made by the Sale : but he tolerates that cuftome, and knows well enough, that 
 fooner or later, all thofe profits will come again into the Treafury. 
 
 Tift prohibition 'Tis upon the fame confideration, that the Grand Seignor permits a manifeft breach 
 to Und at In- 1 of the Law of Mahomet, which prohibits the taking of any intereft for money lent \ for 
 ttnfl. hefuffers the Pages and others, to lend confiderable fumes, to the Jerves, at the rate of 
 
 fifteen upon the hundred, intereft. And the Perfjans have found cut a very plealant 
 evafion, to ftave off the reproach which might be made to them, of their tranlgreiling 
 againft the fame prohibition. 
 
 TMt Ptrilans The evan * on is this. When they lend out money to any one, they have a Bill or 
 ill cafii/fts. Schedule made of the fum that's lent. Then they compute what the intereft will a- 
 mount to, which is commonly after the rate of twelve in the Hundred. That done.) 
 they take a handkerchief, or fome old Safche, and giving it to the Perfon whom they 
 lend the money to, they make him write a fecond Note, upon the fcore of the intereft, 
 wherein it is expreft, that the debt is for commodities bought, and duely receiv'd.And 
 thus do they think to elttde the reproaches of their own Confciences, and imagine, 
 that they do not offend againft the prohibition of Mahomet. The promife, which the 
 Debtor makes, in writing, is not fign'd by him, it being not the cuftom of the Coun- 
 try, but he puts his feal to it. And yet that too is not fufficient, and it is further re- 
 quifite, that they go before the Cadi, or the Judge of the Law, who confummates tin; 
 work, by putting his own Seal to the writing. 
 
 I have made appear, in this Chapter, the Means and Expedients, which the Grand 
 Seignor makes ufe of, to augment his Revenues ■-, we (hall fee in the next, the wayes 
 he has to exercife his Liberalities, without any charge at all to himfelf. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Chap. XI. Grand Seignor's Seraglio. 
 
 57 
 
 CHAP. XL 
 
 1 A Subtle Expedient, whereby the Grand Seignor 
 exercifes great Liberalities^and meddles not at all 
 with his Revenues. 
 
 1 The Principal Heads. 
 
 The Commendable Tolicy of the Turks. The Ceremonies attending the 
 < VreJeiits,fent by the Grand Seignor, to thofe Iphom he would ho- 
 nour. The particular way us'd by Mahomet the Fourth, to 
 fbelo himfelf liberal, without any charge to himfelf. Formalities 
 okferu d at the Death of the Bafla's, who are ftrangled by the 
 mice's orders. When, and hole they ftrike off the Head in 
 Turkey. A prohibition againft Jhedding the blood of the Ma- 
 humetans, who are condemn d to death. The Inventories of the 
 Goods of Bafla's deceas'd, not faithfully taken. The caufes indu- 
 cing the Turks to defie Death with fo much constancy. How 
 difficult it is to get out of Turkey. Vrefents made to the Sul- 
 tanefles. 
 
 TH E Two expedients which the Grand Seignor makes ufe of to augment his 
 Treafury, befides what comes in by the ordinary revenues of the Empire,are 
 much of the fame nature, with thofe he ufes, to beftow great largeifes, with- 
 out disburling any thing himfelf. He makes his advantages of all •, the Baf- 
 fas are as fo many fpunges, and he fqueezes them, as well while they are living, as 
 when they are dead, and at their coft, aflignes recompences to thofe, who have done 
 him fome acceptable fervice. Let us take things in order, one after another, and (hew 
 in the firft place, how he manages his fubtle defign, while the Baffas are living, in 
 getting out of them wherewithall to make ample gratifications, without any diminu- 
 tion of his Revenues. 
 
 Amongft the Political maximes of the Ottoman Monarchs, this is one of the moft 
 remarkable. They would have the BaJJa's to be refpedted in their feveral Governments, 
 by the People, as much as if they were there themfelves in Perfon : and to make a 
 greater, and more lively imprerTion of that veneration in their minds, they think it fit- 
 ting, to honour them, from time to time, with fome Prefent, which is carried to them 
 with much Ceremony. This Prefent,which is a certain demonftration ot the Efteem, 
 which the Prince has for the Perfon to whom he fends it, is commonly fome rich Gar- 
 ment and when he is willing to make it compleat, he adds the Sabre, and the Pon- 
 yard, garnifh'd and adorn'd with precious ftones. The Grand Seignor, upon the con- 
 sideration before-mentioned, finding himfelf as it were oblig'd to make a Prefent to 
 that Bjffa, knowes well enough, that he will be fure, on the other fide, to fend him 
 one which fhall be worth ten times as much, and to make another to his Envoy,which 
 he mult look on as a recompence of his Services. 
 
 But it is not alwayes the Grand Seignor's defign, by fuch Prefents, to honour the 
 F'.ijja-i and keep the People the more in fubjedtion to him. It happens many times, 
 
 that 
 
58 
 
 A Relation of the 
 
 Chap.XL 
 
 jfte Ceremonies 
 attending the 
 Trefents fent by 
 the Grand 
 Seignor to 
 tbnje whom he 
 would honour. 
 
 that when he intends to mine him, he makes him a Prcfent, that he may thence take 
 occaficn, in cafe he docs not receive another from him, fuch as he deiires, to fend an- 
 other Meffcnger for his Head. The Prefent, upon that occalion, is not a Veil, or 
 Garment, but, a Sword, or a Battle-Axe, which are very Ominous Prefents, and 
 Advertifcments to the Bafia, that the Grand Seignor has little kindnefs for him. To t 
 divert the Storm, which he fees likely to fall upon him, lie doubles the Prefent he 
 mould have made, in cafe he had fent him but a Veft, which fesi pledge of his affecti- 
 on. And if that Bajfa be one of thofe, who Commands in the greater Governments, 
 the Prcfent which he fends to the Grand Seignor, ought not to amount to left than 
 Two hundred Purfes, that is to fay, a Hundred thoufand Crowns, not comprehend- 
 ing what is particularly given to the perfon who is fent by the Emperour. 
 
 The pcrfons charg'd with this CommiiTion are, for the molt part, fuch as the 
 Grand Seignor is willing to be Munificent to. So that, all things coniider'd, the 
 Prefent is not fo much delign'd for him who receives it, as for him who fends it, and 
 the perfon who carries it : And in this confitts the artifice of exercifing great Liberali- 
 ties without disburfing any thing. The Ceremony perform'd at the delivery of this 
 Prefent of the Grand Seignor, is this : He who carries it being come to the place- 
 where the Bajfa lives, to whom it is Tent, and having advertis'd him of it, this latter, 
 with the noife of Drums, Trumpets, and Hawboys, aflembles the people together, fome 
 of whom mount themfelves on Horfe-back, to do him the greater honour. The Bajfa 
 himfelf marches in the Head of all, and they who are not mounted follow afoot, to- 
 gether with the Curteians, or common Strumpets, of the place, who are obliged to 
 aiTift at this Ceremony, dancing after a Tabour, and putting themfelves into a thoufand 
 lafcivious poftures, according to the Cuftome of the Country. 
 
 The Meflenger who brings the Prefent makes a halt, in expectation of this Caval- 
 cade, in fome Garden near the City, or in the Fields under a Tent, which he had got 
 fet up for that purpofe. After mutual Salutations, he cafts the Veft over the BaJJas 
 (houlders, puts the Sabre by his Side, and thruits the Ponyard into his Safche before 
 his Breaft, telling him, That the Emperour, their Mafter, honours him with that Pre- 
 fent, upon the good report which had been made to him, that he has demean'd him- 
 felf well, that he does not tyrannize over his People, and that there is no complaint 
 «rade,of his being defective in the adminiftration of Juftice. 
 
 This Complement paft, the Bajfa, in the fame order, and amidft the Joyful Accla- 
 mations of the people, takes his way, and the Grand Seignor's Envoy along with 
 him, towards his Houfe, where he entertains him at a great Treat, arid, after all is 
 done, with a Prefent, which amounts to Ten thoufand Crowns at the leaft. For, as 
 I told you before, if the Prefent be carried to one of the Bafjas, who are in the grea- 
 ter Governments, as the Baffas of Buda t Cairo, or Babylon, they mail not efcape under 
 Thirty or Forty thoufand Crowns, and the Prefent which is fent to the Sultan, ought 
 to amount to a hundred thoufand. Nay it many times happens, that the Grand Seig- 
 nor appoints what he would have their Prefent to his Envoy to amount to, and that 
 cfpecially, when he fends fuch as he has a particular kindnefs for, and would amply 
 gratifie. 
 
 The wticHhr *^" ne Emperour Mahomet the Fourth, who now fits on the Throne, has a particular 
 •way us 1 d by inclination to exercife Liberality, and to beftow Rewards on thofe who ferve him •> 
 M. hornet IV. but he does it, fo as that it cofts him nothing, and confequentiy, there is no occafion 
 to (hew himfelf of taking ought out of the Treafury. When there is not an opportunity to fend the 
 Uberal,reithout p er f or , 5 whom he has a defire to gratifie, into the Country, with fome Prefent, he has 
 another Expedient, which will do the work. His Darling-Divertiiement is Hunting, 
 and he takes but little pleafure in any other Exercife. He thereupon orders the Perfon, 
 whom he would recompence, to be one at the Sport, and having kilPd a Stagg, or 
 fome other Beaft, he orders him to go and prefent it, from him, to one of the Gran- 
 dees of the Port, whofe abode is either at Conjlantinople, or fome place near it. 
 
 This Prefent is receiv'd with great demonltrations of joy, real, or apparent, and 
 the perfon, to whom it is brought, is immediately to take order for the fending back 
 
 of 
 
Chap. XL Grand Seignors Seraglio. 59 
 
 of another, much exceeding it in value, to the Grand Seignor. And that confifts or- 
 dinarily in excellent Horfes, good pieces of Gold-Brockado, or rich Furrs. But his 
 work is yet not half over ; there muft be much more done for him, through whole 
 hands he has receiv'd the Prefent, and he fcapes very well, when, not accounting what 
 he fends to the Grand Seignor, the carriage of it cofts him but Ten thoufand Crowns. 
 Nay many times, he is fore'd to double the Summe, when he has not been fo liberal, 
 as the Prince expecled he Ihould have been * for he prefently difpatches away an Offi- 
 cer, to reproach him with the flender account he has made of his Prefent, and the 
 fmall rccompence he had receiv'd, whom he had employ'd to bring it him. To thefe 
 reproaches he fends him an exprefs Order, to make him an additional Reward of 
 Twenty or thirty Purfes, which is immediately put in execution : and as to the Pre- 
 fent, which the Grand Seignor has receiv'd, he commonly makes a diftribution of it, 
 amongft thofe, who are then about him. 
 
 And thefe are the Advantages which the Grand Seignor fcrews out of the Baffas, 
 and other Grandees of the Port, whilft they are alive. Let us now confider thofe 
 which accrew to him by their death, in order to the recompenling of thofe, whom 
 he favours, without being oblig'd to take any thing out of his Coffers. When the 
 death of a Bajfa is refolv'd upon, the Grand Seignor delivers the Commiffion to him, 
 whom he has defign'd to be kind to ■■> and he finds it much more advantageous, to 
 bring him the Sentence of his death, than to bring him a Prefent from the Prince. 
 
 If the Execution is to be done in Conjiantinople, the ordinary Executioner is the Fomalltlee ob- 
 Bij\iangi-bacbi, who is alwaies about the Grand Seignor's Perfon, and he himfelf does ferv'd at the 
 the Work. But if there be a necellity of going into fome remote Province, 'tis com- ^thofthe 
 manly either a Kapigi-bacbi, or one of the principal Bofiangif, whom the Prince has a ^iri^lu 
 mind to (hew his kindnefs to, who is fent to perform the Execution. He who car- by the Prim's 
 ries the Order, accompany'd by five or fix Capigis, fometimes manages his Affairs fo, Orders. 
 as to arrive at the place, while the Council is fitting. But if that cannot be fb order'd, 
 he goes to the Bajja, and commands him in the Grand Seignor's name,to call one imme-. 
 diately. That Council confifts of the Baffa s Lieutenant, the Mufti, the Cadi, the chief* 
 Commander of the Janizaries belonging to that place, and fome other perfons con- 
 cern'd in the adminiftration of Juftice , who are of the moft coniiderable of the 
 Province. 
 
 The Council being aftembled, the Capigi-bachi enters, attended by his people, and 
 prefents the Baffa with the Grand Seignors Letter. He receives it with great refpedt, 
 and having put it three fcveral times to his forehead, he opens it, reads it, and rinds 
 that the Prince demands his head. He makes no other anfwer to that Order, then 
 what he does in thefe few words Let the Will, (ayes he, of my Emperour be done : 
 only give me leave to fay my Prayers which is granted him. His Prayers being ended, 
 the Capigis feize him by the Arms, and the chief of them prefently takes off his Girdle 
 or Safche, and cafts it about his Neck. That Girdle conlifts of feveral fmall firings of 
 Silk, with knots at both ends, which two of the company immediately catch hold 
 of, and one drawing one way, and the other, t'other-way, they difpatch him in an 
 inftant. 
 
 If they are unwilling to make u(e of their Girdle, they take a handkerchief, and 
 with the Ring which they ufe, in the bending of their Bowes, and which they ordi- 
 narily wear on the right-hand Thumb, they thruft the hand between the handkerchief, 
 which is ty'd very clofe, and the Throat, and fo break the 
 
 Thus they make a fhift to ftrangle a man in an inftant, fuffering him not to languifh in 
 pain, that he may dye a faithful Mahometan, and not have the time to enter into de- 
 fpair the7#r/y thinking our way of hanging Criminals, who are fo long in torment 
 upon the Gibbet, a ftrange kind of Execution. 
 
 Though I have often us'd this expreffion, That the Grand Seignor fends to demand and how 
 the Head of any perfon, whom he would rid out of the way i yet they never cut it off, ^ j^'J^^ 
 but when he exprelly declares his defire to fee it, and then it is brought to him. If Turkey, 
 it be from fome place at a great diftance, they take out the Brains, and fill the empty. 
 
 ( I ) place 
 
6o A Relation of the Chap. XL 
 
 place with Hay ; and it was my fortune to fee two Heads fo order'd, at the lame time, 
 which they carried in a Bag. They were the Heads of the Baffa's of Kars^nd Erzerom. 
 
 It is further to be obferv'd, That when the Sentence of death is pafs'd by the Prince 
 againft any one, what quality foever he may be of, the lurks make no further account 
 of him - , and when they fpeak of him, treat him no otherwife than they would do a 
 Dog. The Boftangi, who had been commiilionated to bring thofe two Heads to the 
 Grand Seignor, finding bimfelf weary and indifpos'd at a Village in Armenia, where it 
 was my chance to be at that time, and having underftood, that there was a Frmck-mzn 
 in the Inne, ask'd one of my Servants whether I had any Wine, and would be content 
 to let him have any, to cheer up his fpirits. I immediately fent him fome in a large 
 Flaggon i whereupon having intreated me to come and take a Glafs with him, which 
 I thought it not fit to deny, he would needs Ihew me, whether 1 would or ho, the 
 Heads of thofe two Baffas i a fight I had no great curiofity to fee. 
 
 When there is no order given for the bringing of the Head,they bury the Body about 
 Mid-night, without any ceremony, and the memory of the BaJJa, who had made lb 
 A Prohibition much noife before, is foon extinguiih'd and laid in the dull. But it is moreover to be 
 tgtinft (bed- noted, That it is the Cuftome in Turk$y y not to cut off the Head of any one, till after 
 rf^fc^M h tne y nave ft ran £>l e< * n * m > an<a< tnat blood is quite cold •, it being againft their Law, 
 means wto" That the bIood °^ a Mujjultnan (that is, one of the Faithful) mould be fpilt, upon any 
 are condemned occafion, but in Warr* 
 to death. 
 
 The inventories The execut i° n being over, he who brought the Order for it, makes an immediate 
 •ftht Goods of Seizure of all that belong'd to the deceas'd BaJJ'a ■■> and after he has fet alide what he 
 Bafla's dt- liked beft for his own ufe,whether in Gold or jewels, he brings the fame peribns,who 
 teas' 1 djiot faith- ^ ac [ b een at tne precedent Councel, to proceed to the Inventory of his Goods, which 
 fully ta^en. ar£ a f terwarc (s, as I have faid elfewhere, tranfmitted to the Chambers of the Treafory. 
 
 They who are ailiftant at the taking of that Inventory, know well enough, that many 
 things, which belong'd to the deceas'd,are embezill'd, but they are fo far from repining 
 or murmuring at it,that they fign and atteft,that there was not any more found. They 
 are afraid,if they demean'd themfelves otherwife,left that Officer of the Seraglio, whom 
 the Grand Seignor has fent, and who poflibly is in favour, lhould do them ill offices 
 at the Court, and fpread fome falfe report of them j whence, according to the example 
 they have then before their eyes, might happen, in like manner, the lofs of their 
 Charges, and Lives. 
 
 They therefore think it prudence, to connive at what ever is done by that Envoy, 
 as being otherwife perfwaded, that he will not be difown'd by the Grand Seignor, 
 who is not ignorant of what's done upon thofe occafions. Nay, on the contrary ,what- 
 cver he may have dextroufly fecur'd to himfelf of the Baffas Goods, they make him 
 fome additional Prefents of their own, at his departure from them, engaging him 
 thereby, to fpeak well of them to the Grand Seignor, and to the Grand Vizir, at his 
 return to the Port. And then alfo, not accounting what he had taken before-hand, and 
 what Cuftome tolerates, he receives new marks of the Liberality of his Prince, who is 
 fatisfy'd that he has fo faithfully executed his Orders : and fo he participates of what 
 is fet down in the Inventory, when the Baffa's Goods are brought into the Seraglio. 
 
 The cduCes in Some, poffibly, will be apt to imagine, that this Sentence of Death pafs'd in the 
 during the*' Grand Seignor's Letter, fhould raife fome difturbance and aftonifhment in the Soul of 
 Turks to defie him who reads it, and who reading therein his own Condemnation, knowes that it 
 Death with fo m uft be immediately executed. Yet is it not apparent in his Countenance, that he is 
 touch conftancy. mK \ i ft art i ec | at w h e i s not forpriz'd therewith, he fees that few of his Companions 
 efcape the fame fate, and he has difpos'd himfelf for fuch an end, aftbon as he firft 
 took poffeflion of his Charge. Belides, the Turkf have a ftrong perfwafion, That the 
 Decrees of Predeftination are irrevocable,and that it is impoffible to avoid them ' 5 which 
 makes them look Death in the face, with fuch a degree of conftaiicy and intrepidity, 
 as renders them in a manner inlenlible. To which reflection we may adde this, That 
 that ready and implicite obedience and fubmiffion of the Turfy, to the Orders of their 
 Soveraign, is rather a principle of Religion, than of State, which has been inftill'd into 
 
 them, 
 
Chap.XI. Grand Seignors Seraglio. , 61 
 
 them, by a moft fubtle piece of Politicks i and they believe. That, if they dye by the 
 Command of their Prince, they go ftreight into Paradife. 
 
 As for the opportunity of making an efcape out of 7«>%, by any one who might the Difficulties 
 have fome prefentiment of his deftru&ion, it is to no purpofe to think of it. All the of making an 
 Officers, and the Slaves, whom the Bdffas have in their Retinue, are fo many Spies, E f ca P e 0Ht °f 
 and obfervers of their Actions and it is impoilible for them, to conceal what they do T"""^' 
 from them. 'Twere dangerous for a man to entruft a Secret with any one of them* 
 they are mean Souls, and uncapablc of any gallant Action , befides that the Ports and 
 Paffages are equally (hut up againtt both. If there be the lealt difcovcry made thereof, 
 the Governour of the Frontier places would immediately have Orders from the Port, 
 to take the Field -, nay if there were not any fuch, they are but over-diligent, in en- 
 quiring after, and informing themfelves of all thofe, who pafs through the extent of 
 their Jurifdiction. 
 
 Befides, though there were fome likelihood of comparting it, and that, travelling 
 only in the Night time, a man might get into fome Neighbouring State => yet Turkey 
 being in a manner quite furrounded by Nations who abhor the Domination of the 
 Ottomans 'twere as much as to leap out of the Frying-pan into the Fire, and to go 
 and pafs for a Spy, amongft a fort of people, who would give no quarter. Whence it 
 might be imagin'd, that there were lefs difficulty in attempting an efcape by Sea, than 
 to hazard it by land : but the former is the much more difficult, and the (evere prohi- 
 bitions made to the Chrifiians, upon pain of death, not to take any 7url^ or Slave, into 
 their Ships, which are exactly fearch'd, before they weigh Anchor, fhut up all the 
 Ports of Tnrke)') againft thofe of the Country ,who might be defirous to get out of it. 
 
 True it is, however, that few years pafs, but that a confiderable number of Slaves 
 are convey'd away, by the charity and contrivances of the Cbrifiian Confuls, and Mer- 
 chants. They are fecretly kept at the Houfes of fome Cbrifiian Inhabitants of the Coun- 
 try, whofe fecrecy and filence are bought with Mony ■■> and the fame receipt flops the 
 mouths of thofe, who have the over-tight of the Ports, and are warmly entertain'd 
 with drinking, while they cunningly get the Slaves aboard the Veffel, which has been 
 vifited, and is then ready to fet fail. They would be loath to run themfelves into that 
 danger for natural Turks : there would be fome ground to fear, that it might be fome 
 Plot on their fide, to furprize and try the Chrifiians ; and it feldorn happens that they 
 have a thought of making any efcape. They know well enough, that, whether it be 
 by Sea, or Land, (excepting only the Kingdom of Perfia, where they are hated upon 
 the account of the difference of Sects) they cannot make their efcape any where but 
 into Chrifkndom, where they would not be permitted the exercife of their Mahumetan 
 Religion, which they would not renounce for a thoufand lives. 
 
 E're we dole up the Difcourfe concerning the Liberality of the Ottoman Monarchs, p re f ents ma j( 
 it is to be obferv'd, That fometimes they make very confiderable Prefents, which they to tbt Sultantfi 
 take out of the Grand Treafury, and which are paid in Silver only, if they are order'd fes. 
 for the Qrandees of the Port, whether in the Seraglio, or out of it. Thofe Prefents 
 confifts ordinarily of a Purfe of Gold, which amounts to Fifteen thoufand Ducats^ or 
 Thirty thoufand Crowns •■, and when there are any fuch made to the Sultaneffes, they 
 receive all in Gold. To do that, there's no occalion of going to the Secret Treafury, 
 there is gold enough in the Fourth Chamber, into which they at firft bring in all the 
 Gold and Silver of all the Revenues of the Empire =, and that Summe, which makes n® 
 great hole in the great heap, returns again into the fame place, by feveral waies. 
 
 I i 
 
 CHAP 
 
62 
 
 A Relation of the Chap.XII. 
 
 CHAP. XII. 
 
 Of the Prefent, which the Grand Seignor fends, every Year, 
 
 to Mecha. 
 
 The Principal Heads. 
 
 The third part of the Revenue of Egypt, holt employ d. The great 
 Wealth of the Sheck of Mecha, Ceremonies obferYd at Maho- 
 met's Tomb. The Caravan of Cairo. The Trefent fent from 
 Mecha to the Great Mogul. The Opinion of the Mahumetans, 
 concerning Mecha and Medina. 
 
 THat I make here a particular Chapter of the Prefent, which the Grand 
 Seignor fends every Year to Mecha, is occafion'd by this third part of the 
 Revenue of Egypt, which is peculiarly defign'd for it ■■, and upon this 
 Confideration withall, That I have fmgular Remarks to make upon that 
 
 fubjedt. 
 
 •Three Millions of Livers, of Twelve, of annual Revenue, which the Kingdom of 
 Egypt payes the Grand Seignor, are partly expended in the Rich Carpet, and the Sump- 
 tuous Tent, which he fends to the Sheck^ every year, in honour to Mahomet's, Tomb 
 Another part goes to the payment of thofe who ferve in the Mofqueys ■■> As for in- 
 ftance, the Imans, who are their Priefts v the Cheuchs, who are their Preachers i the 
 Muezims, who, by their noife on the Towers of the Mofqueys, call the people to their 
 Devotions > and the Kaijms of Mecha and Medina, who look to, and keep clean the 
 Mofqueys, and light the Lamps. We muft alfo put into the Account of theCe Three 
 Millions, the Suftenance of all the Pilgrims for the fpace of Seventeen dayes, the Grand 
 Seignor fending, for that end, a fufficient Summe to the Sheckf This Sheck* who is, 
 as 'twere, the Supream Perfon upon the fcore of the Law, and the High Prieft of all 
 the Mabumetansy what Country and Sect foever they be o£ makes the poor ignorant 
 people believe, that there come every year to Mecha, Seventy thoufand Pilgrims, Men 
 and Women j and if that number were not compleat, the Angels would come in hu- 
 mane forms, to make it up. 
 
 >fhe great wealth "-^is Prince, whom we call the Sheckf, for whom all the Mahometans have a great 
 of the Sheck Veneration, is very Rich, and very powerful, and that may be ealily conje&ur'd, by 
 of Mecha. the Prefents, which he receives every year from the Grand Seignor, and the other Ma- 
 humetan Princes. Thefe Prefents are all his own, to be difpos'd of as he pleales, at 
 the end of the Year, when new ones are fent to him. He makes his advantage alio 
 of all the Prefents that are made by the Pilgrims, and of the Summes of Mony, which 
 thofe very Princes fend him, to be diftributed in Alms, which he alfo difpofes of as 
 he pleafes i and all thefe Prefents put together, make him fuch a Revenue as is hardly 
 imaginable. For Mahumetifme fpreads very much into Europe, Afia, and Africa, and 
 that much more then is commonly believ'd, as I (hall more diftindtly make it appear, 
 at the end of my Relation, in a particular Chapter, which I defign for the handling 
 of that matter. 
 
 The third part 
 of the Revenue 
 of Egypt, how 
 tmpio/d. 
 
 ceremonies oh- From feveral Parts of the World, there come Caravans to Mecha, and when the 
 ftrid at Ma- Devotion is to begin, the High Prieft, alTifted by all the people belonging to the Law, ' 
 fibmec's Tomb, fpends night and day, in faying of Prayers, and performing the neceffary Ceremonies. 
 
 On the Seventh day, all the Pilgrims are aflembled together before the Sheets Tent, 
 
 who 
 
Chap. XII. GrandSeignors Seraglio. 63 
 
 who appears at the entrance of it, and (landing upon a low Stool, that he may be feen 
 by thofe who are at the greateft diftance from him, Prayes, and gives his Benediction 
 to all the people, putting a period to the Devotion, with thefe words, 7 bat God would 
 enable tbcm to return in Peace, as they came tbitber. 
 
 From that minute, every one muft bethink himfelf that he is to be at his own 
 charges the Sbccl^ gives no more, and 'tis then that he begins to make great advanta- 
 ges to himielf. For whatever is (old for the Sullenance of the Pilgrims, comes from 
 him i and befides, he holds a correfpondence with the Mailers of the Caravans, of 
 whom the Pilgrims are fore'd to buy conveniences for their riding back again, at more 
 then three times the rate they are worth, when the Beails they had brought out of 
 their own Countries have faiFd them by the way. 
 
 The Caravan of Cairo is the moil numerous, and the moil confiderable of all the ^ caravan 
 Caravans, that come to Mecba. The Caravan-bacbi, who is the Captain and Con- of Cairo, 
 dudtor of it, makes his gains by it, at. his return, worth him Two hundred thoufand 
 Crowns and there is a great competition about his place, which is at the difpofal of 
 the Baffa of Cairo, and commonly carried by the higheil bidder for it. The Captain 
 of this Caravan is alfo Mailer of the Waters, which are carried into the Ciflerns, and 
 it is according to his Orders that they are diftributed ■■> and whereas that diftribution 
 is equal, as well in relation to the Poor, as to the Puch, if the latter would have any 
 beyond the quantity allow'd them, they mull: pay dearly for it ■■> and the Captain , 
 who fets what impofition he pleafes upon it, makes a conliderable advantage there- 
 by. ' ' • : 
 
 But let us return to the Grand Seignor's Prefent. The Tenr, and the Carpet,which The Vrtftnt fint 
 he fends, are two pieces equally precious, as well for the excellency of the StufTe,as the from Mecha to 
 additional embellilhments heteof. The Carpet is defign'd for the covering of Mabo- tbe G " at Mo ". 
 met's Tomb j and the Tent, which is erected hard by the Mofquey, is for the Sbeck^ ^ u " 
 who does not ftirr out of it,during the Seventeen dayes of Devotion. This High Priell 
 of the Mabumetan Law, has found out the fecret knack, of extracting inexpreilible 
 Summes of Mony, out of that Carpet and Tent, which are renew'd every year : and 
 when the new Prefent is arriv'd from the Grand Seignor, he fends, as 'twere out of a 
 Angular favour, certain pieces of the Curtain of the old Tent, to feveral Mabumetan 
 Princes, of whom he receives Magnificent Prefents in requital. This Curtain, which 
 is fet up on the out-fide of the Tent, quite round it, to hinder the people from feeing 
 thofe that are under it, confifts of feveral pieces, fix foot high, and of a great length-: 
 and the Sbetk^ endeavours to perfwade thofe Princes, That if they fallen one of thofe 
 pieces to their Tents, when they are going to engage in a War, againll thofe whom 
 they account Infidels, good fortune will be fure to attend them, aud it will not be 
 long e're they gain the Victory. But if he fends either the whole Curtain, or the 
 Tent, or Carpet entire, it muft be to a great Monarch indeed, fuch as the Great Cbam 
 of 7artary, or the Great Mogul : and that he dees, once in ten, or twelve years > one 
 while to the one, and another, to the other. 
 
 Of this we have a late inftance, in Aureng-z,eb, who at the prefent is King of the 
 Indies, and whom we otherwife call the Great Mogul. For upon his eftablilhment in 
 his Throne, the Sheckjznt him the whole Curtain belonging to the Tent i and great 
 joy there was at his Court, that the King had receiv'd fo Magnificent a Prefent, from 
 the Holy Place, as they call it. The Sbeck^ was foon after made fenfible of the Royal 
 Liberality of that Great Monarch, one of the Richeft and moll Powerful of the Uni- 
 verfe ; and thus does that Spiritual Head of the Mabumetan Religion, who has a kind 
 of Superintendency overall the Members, know how to make his advantage of them, 
 and has found out the way, to enrich himfelf, at the coft of all the Princes and Nati- 
 ons, who fubmit themfelves to the Mabumetan Law. 
 
 I queftion not, but that they who have writ of the Religion of the 7Wy, have 
 given fome account of the Pilgrimage of Mecba, which is one of the moll elTential 
 parts thereof ■> and therefore, as well, for that reafon, as alfo for that I (hould digrefs 
 
 too 
 
6 4 
 
 A Relation of the Chap. XII. 
 
 too much from my fubjedr, I ought not to profccute that matter any farther. I (hall 
 take occafion here, to make three Remarks, which I have originally learnt, of one 
 of the moll learned in the Rubricks of the Mabumetan Law. 
 
 The firft is, that the Turks, by an ancient Tradition, believe, That Mecba is the 
 place, where God commanded Abraham to build him a houfe i and that while he was 
 there, all Nations came thronging to vifit him : and that it is alfo the fame place, 
 where Mabomet receiv'd the Alcoran, from Heaven. 
 
 The fecond relates to the Commandement impos'd upon all the Mabumetans. to be, 
 once in their lives, concern'd in the Pilgrimage of Mecba. For it is to be obferv'd, 
 That the obligation does not extend to the poorer fort of people, who have hardly 
 wherewithal to live upon, and would bring great mifery on their Families, by their 
 abfence, as being not able to leave them what is requifite for their fultenance. 
 
 The third Remark is concerning the preference of the two Cities of Mecba, and 
 Medina. The former is the place of Mahomet's birth, which it was his defign to ho-<- 
 nour, and make known, by that famous Pilgrimage, whereto he obliges all thofe of his 
 Law. The latter is the place of his Burial, of which there is abundance of fabulous 
 relations. Mahomet, in his Alcoran, does only enjoyn their going to Mecba, where 
 there are no other Relicks of that falfe Prophet, then one of his Sandalls : And the 
 Dodtors of the Law are alfo of opinion, that there is no obligation of going to Medina, 
 and that without feeing that City, a man fatisfies the Command of Mahomet. I (hall 
 treat at large of the Pilgrimage of Mecba, in the laft Chapter of this Relation of my 
 Travels, and of the different Roads by which the Mabumetans of Europe, Afia, and 
 Africa, are conducted to the Tomb of their Prophet. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Chap.XIII. Grand Seignor's Seraglio. 63 
 
 CHAP. XIII. 
 
 Of the Cup-Bearer's Quarter., and of divers other 
 
 Appartments. 
 
 The Principal Heads. 
 
 Tlx ancient Cuflome praclis'd, "tohen the Grand Seignor is prefented 
 "frith any thing to drink, between meals. A "fray to quench thirfi 
 at meals, wholly particular to the Levantines. 77>e compofltion 
 of Treacle. Afately JerYtce of Gold-Tlate. {Beds according to 
 the Turkifli mode. Waies to fatisfie the necefiities of Nature 
 different from ours. The Caufes of the abominable Sin committed 
 by the Turks, lobo are confind "frithin the Seraglio. 
 
 "W Have difcover'd many things particularly obiervable, concerning the Treafttry of ^ Ancient 
 I the Ottoman Monarchs, and there are yet fome very Remarkable paflages to be cuftome pra- 
 g§ communicated, relating to the other Quarters of the inner part of the Sera- Clis^drehentk. 
 
 -Ml giio. 5 ra l d ?T PI 
 
 ° drinks betrntn 
 
 Between the Treafury, and an obfeure Vaulted Gallery, in length between Fifteen ** 
 and Twenty paces, which conducts you to an Iron-Door, by which there is a paflage 
 into the Gardens, you find, on the left hand, the Appartment of the Pages of the Kilat y 
 or the Cup-Bearer's Office. That is the place where they prepare the Sherbets, and 
 other Liquors, for the Grand Seignor's own drinking, and where they keep the Wine, 
 if it happens, that he drinks any, as Sultan Amutatb did, of whom I have often had 
 occafion to fpeak. 'Tis an ancient Cufteme, That when the Grand Seignor calls for 
 Water to drink between meals, every time he fo calls cofts him ten Sequins, or Che- 
 quins. The Ceremony obferv'd therein is this : In the Chamber calPd the Haz-Oda, 
 which is the Appartment of the Forty Pages, who are alwayes near the Grand Seig- 
 nor's Perfon, there is perpetually one of them (landing Sentinel at the Entrance, which 
 leads to the Cup-Bearer's Office, where two Pages of the fame Quarter are in like 
 manner upon the Sentry. When the Grand Seignor is thirfty,and calls for water, the 
 Page of the Haz-Oda immediately makes a fign to the two Pages of the Kilar,of whom 
 one advances up to the Kilar-bacbi, or Cup-Bearer himfelf, crying out Sou, which fig- 
 riiries Water, to advertife him, that the Prince would drink - , and the other runs to 
 the door of the Haz-Oda, where the moft ancient of the Forty Pages gives him Teri 
 Sequins. That Page is the Treafurer of the faid Chamber, and he payes the fmall 
 Sums which the Grand Seignor gives order for, an Office which might be call'd in 
 Englifb, The 1 nafurer of the petty Enjoyments. The Water is fometimes brought in a 
 Cup of Gold, fometimes in a Veflel of Pourcelain, placed upon a large Server of Gold } 
 about two foot diameter.and enrich'd with Precious Stones within and without. That 
 is look'd on, as one of the richelt pieces cf Plate belonging to the Seraglio. The prin- 
 cipal Cup-Bearer, who is a white Eunuch, carries it with great Ceremony, attended 
 by a hundred Pages of the Kil.ir, whom he ordinarily has under his Charge, and up^ 
 held under the Arms by two of them, who walk on both fides of him. For it is re- 
 quir'd, That he (hould carry it lifted up above his head, and fo he cannot fee his way 
 but by looking under it. When he is come to the Door of the Haz-Oda, the Pages of 
 the Kilar, who have accompany'd him fo far, pafs no further, fave only the two who 
 uphold his Arms, and the Pages of the Chamber go along with him quite into' the 
 Giand Seignor's Prefence. But when they come to the door of the Chamber, two of 
 
 the 
 
66 A Relation of the Chap. XIII 
 
 the more ancient among them, take the places of the two Fages of the Hilar, and 
 ccmpleat the conducting of the Kilargi-Bachi, under the Arms, to offer the Cup to the 
 Prince. When he has not any thing to fay to him, he carries it back again into the 
 Kilar ', but if he will take his opportunity to entertain him with fome Affair, he deli- 
 vers the Cup and the Server into the hands of one of the Pages, who led him under 
 the Arms, and he delivers it to thofe, who, belonging to the Cup-Bearer's Office, wai- 
 ted there in expectation of his return. 
 
 A rpay to 5 Tis in the fame place, to wit, that under the over-fight of the Cup-bearer, they keep 
 qutncb tbirfl a jj f orts 0 f re fre(hing and cooling Waters, as that of Peaches, Cherries, Rafpices, and 
 tdrtTcufar to ^ ^ ucn otncr ^ iUlts ' The Turkj do not drink during their refection, that is, not till they 
 the Levantines, have given over eating-, and becaufe it is poilible they may be dry, whilft they eat ; take 
 here the manner how they quench that thirft. They are ferv'd at Table with thefe 
 Waters, in great Cups of Pottrcelaine, which hold about two Quarts, and the better to 
 diffinguifh them, they put into every one of thofe Cups, fome of the fame fruit, from 
 which the Water that is therein had been extracted, and which they had preferv'd for 
 that purpofe. Every one has lying by him a Wooden fpoon, which holds three or 
 four times as much as any of our ordinary ones, and whereof the handle is of a length 
 proportionable : for as to Gold or Silver fpoons , it is not their cuffome to ufe any. 
 With thofe fpoons , they can take out what is in the Cups , according to the Water 
 which they moft fancy, and fo they fufpend thirft, taking ever and anon Tome ipoonfuls 
 of it. 
 
 Tbt compaction It is alfo in the Cup-bcarers Appartment that the Treacle is made, which the lurks- 
 of Treacle. call Tirisk^F #>Ki and there is a great quantity of it made, becuuie tiicy ufe it as an Urn- 
 verfal remedy, and charitably beitow it on all forts of people., as well in City as Coun- 
 try, who are defirous of it. The Vipers which are us'd in this composition are brought 
 out of JEgypt, and they make no account of thole which other Countries afford, or 
 they are of opinion at leaft, that the former arc much the better for that purpofe. 
 
 r friiiri-.n-.-oWJjd 4J&ffct ni t rrJk'o hxluN. aw^UJvrtc bfvt imu&tY 9th rr " 3 
 A flatily fer- Before the Appartment of the Kilar, there is a Gallery whereof the floor is pav d 
 vice of Gold with fquare pieces of Black and White Marble, and fuftam'd by eight fair Pillars of 
 I'latc. Wliite Marble, and at the end of it is a little Quarter, where the principal Cup-bearer 
 
 has his refidence. There alfo are the Lodgings of his Subiin ute, the Ktlarquet-boudafi, 
 who is not an Eunuch, as the Kilargi-bacbt is, and who, at his removal out of the Se- 
 raglio , is ordinarily advane'd to the charge of a Bajjli. The Kjlargi-baehi has in his 
 culfody all the Gold and Silver-plate, the Bat ins, che Ewers, the Bowls, the Cups, the 
 Servers, and the Candlefticks, the greateff part of that fervice being gamifti'd with Dia- 
 monds, Rubies and Emeralds, and other pretious Stones of value. As tor golden Di- 
 rties and Candlefticks, without any additional embdlimments of precious Stone, there 
 are fome fo large, and fo maiTy, that there muft be two men to carry one of them. 
 Theie Candlefticks are made after a falhion quite different from ours. They are ordi- 
 narily two or three Foot high, upon a Bafe of above twelve inches Diameter, and the 
 upper part thereof is as 'twere a Box, or kind of Lamp, with its beak, and it may con- 
 tain above a pound offuet. 'Tis to prevent the fall of any thing upon the Carpet, that 
 they make the foot of the Candleffick fo large as I told you j and betides, it is requilite, 
 that it fhould bear fome proportion to the height. The match, or wieke, which they 
 put into the Suet, beaten into fmall bits, is about the bignefs of a Man's thumb, and 
 confequently muft needs make a great light in the Room. As to the Kriarquct-boitdafi, 
 he is the Superiour over the Halvagis> and the Akggis^ who are the < ,ooks and the Con- 
 fectioners, of whom not one can enter into fervice, but by his Orders. 
 
 In my difcourfe of the Treafury, I made no mention of the Quarter of thofe Officers > 
 who ferve there, becaufe my deiign was to follow the order of the Structures of the 
 Seraglio, and to conduct the Reader, by little and little, out of one Court into another, 
 and out of one Quarter into another. That of the Pages ol the Trcaiury,is hard by the 
 Kilar, and begins with a Gallery, pav'd with fquare pieces of Marble, of different co- 
 . lours, fuftain'd by eight Pillars, of the fame material, and whereof the tides and the roof 
 are painted with all forts of flowers, in Gold and Azure. That Gallery is open on the 
 one fide, and on the other you find in the midft of it, the Door leading into the Appart- 
 
 ment 
 
"Chap.XHI. Grand Seignor's Seraglio. 6j 
 
 ment of the Pages, with three great Windows on the right hand, and as many on the 
 left : And 'tis there that the iix moft elderly Pages of the Treafury have their refidence 
 night and day. From that door, along a walk pav'd with white Marble ftones, very 
 large ones, about fifteen paces in length, and rive in breadth, you come to another Por- 
 tal, of the fame material, fuftain'd by two Pillars of black Marble \ over the faid Por- 
 tal, there may be read thefe words , which are ordinary enough in the mouths of the 
 7«/-/y, and which I have explicated elfewhere i 
 
 La Ilkihe Ilia Alia, Muhdmmed %efoul Alia, 
 
 It gives entrance into a long Hall, where there may be feen on both fides a kind of Beds according 
 Seat, or Scaffold, a foot and a half in height, and between feven and eight in breadth. t0 ^ Turkifh 
 Every Page has but four foot in breadth for his repofing place, as well by day, as by m i% 
 night : And for their Beds, they are permitted to have under them, only a Woollen 
 Coverlet, four times doubled, which ferves them for a Quilt, and over that they ordi- 
 narily have one of Gold or Silver-Brockado, or fbme other fumptuous Silk-ftuff => and 
 in the Winter time, they are permitted to have three of them. They are not to have 
 their Coverlets all of Wooll, which would be fo much the warmer, becaufe it would 
 aiot be a decent light for the Grand Seignor, when he comes ever and anon, in the 
 nighttime, pretending indeed as if he would furprize them, and fee how they demean 
 themfelves, but in eft eel, fometimes to cover lewd defigns. 'Tis between thofe Co- 
 verlets that the Pages take their repofe, having their Waft-coat and Drawers on => for 
 there is no talk of any other kind of Linnen, either in T^r/^y, or any part of the Eaft i 
 and whether it be Winter or Summer, they alwaies lay themfelves down to fleep, half 
 clad, without any great Ceremony. 
 
 Over the Beds of the Pages , there is a Gallery, which goes quite round the Hall, m J ts *» 
 and is fuftain'd by Pillars of Wood, painted all over with red varniln, and there they 
 have their Coffers, wherein their Cloaths are kept. Every one has a Coffer to himfelf, faint from Wh 
 hot the twelve Senior Pages have each of them two Coffers, and one of thofe twelve 
 has the Key of the Gallery in his cuftody. It is ordinarily open'd but one day in the 
 Week, which is anfwerable to our Wedncfday, and then, every Page goes, and takes out 
 of his Coffer, what he ftands in need of. If any one of them mult of neceifity look for 
 lome thing there upon any other day, he gets five or fix Pages together, and they all 
 go to the principal Officer of the Treafury, and he commands the Rafgi, who has the 
 fvey of the Gallery in his cuftody, to open it for them, and to have a care that they 
 meddle not with the Coffers of their Companions* 
 
 At one of the ends of the Hall,there is a Door, which conduces you to the Fountaines, 
 where thofe that have their dependance on the Treafury go and wafh, when they are 
 call'd to their Devotions. There are feven Copper Cocks for that convenience, and as 
 well the pavement, as the Walls, of that place are of white Marble. 
 
 The places appointed for the eafing of Nature are on the right hand, divided into 
 four little Rooms, which are alwayes kept very clean, and pav'd with fquare pieces of 
 white Marble, as the Room of the Fountain is. The Turks do not fit down, as we 
 do, when they are in thofe places, but they fquat down over the hole , which is not 
 half a foot, or little more above the ground. That hole is cover'd wi:h an Iron plate, 
 which rifes and falls by a Spring, and turning one way or other, at the falling of the 
 leaft weight upon it, it comes to the ftation it was in before, alfoon as the ordure is fal- 
 len from it. I have obferved elfewhere, that the Turks., and generally all the Mabuma- 
 tanes, do not ufe paper in fuch cafes, or upon any undecent occafion, and when they 
 go to thofe kinds of places, they carry along with them a Pot of water, to wa(h them- 
 felves withal, and the Iron-plate is alfo made clean at the fame time. And fo the hole 
 being alwaies cover'd, and the Iron plate alwaies kept clean, there can be no ill fmell 
 in the place, and that the rather, for that a fmall current of water, which paifes under 
 that place, carries away all the Ordure. 
 
 C K ) But 
 
68 A Relation of the Chap. XIII 
 
 tht caufes of But it were to be wilh'd, that they would not fo much concern themfelves in keep- 
 the abominable j n g mo f e pi accs f 0 clean, provided they could forbear polluting them with thofe de- 
 I'Yhl Turb td ^ble impurities, which I mould gladly have left unmention'd, did I not fear the 
 vho an con- reproach might be made to me, of my having been defective in point of exadnefs. 
 fiti'd within I have already faid fomething of it, in the Second Chapter of this Relation, and it is a 
 tht Seraglio. f u bjed, which is to be flight! y part over, that fo there may be but imperfed I&tas left 
 of it. It is therefore in thofe places, that the Pages make their nodurnal aflignations, 
 in order to the committing of the worft of all crimes, which yet they find it very dif- 
 ficult to put in execution, becaufe they are fo narrowly watch'd and if they are taken 
 in the very ad:, they are punifh'd with fo great feverity, that fbmetimes they are even 
 drubb'd to death i of which chaftifement, I have elfewhere given an account. In like 
 manner, to prevent the committing of that infamous ad, in the places where they take 
 their repofe, there are two Torches lighted, which laft all the Night, and three Eu- 
 nuchs are ever and anon going their Hounds, by which means the Pages are depriv'd 
 of the opportunities, which otherwile they might have, to offend. 
 
 But we need not go far, to find out the Source of this Evil : the ftridnefs of the 
 reltraint they are in, and their being depriv'd of the fight of Women, induce thofe 
 Young Men to pradife fijeh defilements, and hurry the Ttirkj into a Gulph, to which 
 they, by an execrable palfion, are, naturally but too much inclinable. The Icboglanr, 
 who are brought very young into the Seraglio,know not what a Woman is, but by the 
 inftind of Nature ; and there are fome of them, who,for one day's fight and enjoy- 
 ment of a Woman, would be content to dye the next. All thole Nations generally 
 have fo great a bent to lubricity, that it feems impoiTible they mould quit it, but with 
 their lives : what they cannot do one way, they endeavour to do another i and they 
 of the Seraglio do all they can to elude the infpedion of their Overfeers. The Reader 
 may call to mind the Adion of the two Pages, who hid themfelves in the Mofquey^ 
 an ... that fingle Example is enough, to Ihew, how they feck out all the wayes imagin- 
 able, to fatisrie their brutifti paffion. 
 
 The Quarter of the Kafnadar-bachi, as alio that of his Companion, or Subftitute, is 
 adjoyning to that of the Pages of the Treafury, and from their Chambers, they have 
 a Profped into a little Flower-Garden, which belongs to them. We have yet fome 
 other Chambers to view, before we come to that, which they call the Haz-Oda,v/hkh 
 is the Appartment of the Forty Pages of the Chamber, and the entrance to that of the 
 Grand Seignor. 
 
 CHAP. 
 
Chap. XI V. Grand Seignor's Seraglio. 69 
 
 CHAP. XIV. 
 
 Of the Quarter of the Dogangi-bacbi, or Grand 
 Faulconer, and of lome other Officers. 
 
 The Principal Heads. 
 
 SMagnifcent Chambers. The ordinary Revenues of the Grand Faul* 
 coners. The ^Magnificence of the Ottoman Trinces, in lohat 
 relates to Hunting. 'Birds fupplymg the places of Dogs, in run- 
 ?iing down a Deer, or a Hare. Tl?e delicate Chamber of the 
 Selidgar-Agi, who carries the Grand Seignor's Sword. The ex- 
 cellent order obferVd in the Seraglio. 
 
 "*^Hc Vogangi-bachi 3 or Grand Faulconer, and the Pages, whom he has under Magnificat 
 his Charge, have their Quarter, between that of the Pages of the Trea- A iru 
 fury, and that of the Pages of the Chamber. The place appointed for 
 the Pages of the Falconry, has nothing in it extraordinary, and a man 
 cannot make a difcovery of any thing of beauty therein : but on the 
 other fide, the two Chambers, where the Grand Falconer Lodges, have fomething 
 that's Magnificent, and are as fumptuoufly furnifh'd , as any other Room of the Se- 
 raglio. The firft, which ferves for an Anti-Chamber, is letter, and they are both of 
 them pav'd with a Checquer-Work of black and white Marble, having the Roof 
 beautify'd with Flowers, painted, and guilt. But that of the fecond Chamber is the 
 more fumptuous by much, as having large Flowers, in embofs'd Work, every Flower 
 in its fquare piece, and the Junctures all cover'd with Gold. The Walls are ex- 
 cellently wainfcoted, wherein alfo they have not fpar'd for Gold, and on both fides, 
 there are crofs-barr'd Windows, whereby the Chamber receives much light. The 
 Marble Checquer-work of the Floor is not feen, as being cover'd with a filken Car- 
 pet/ upon which there are laid, in feveral parts of the Chamber, a certain number of 
 Quilts, two or three foot in breadth, and about four Inches thick. Some of them 
 are cover'd with Velvet, or Satin, of different Colours s others, with Gold-Brocka- 
 does, and every one has its Culhion, of the fame Stuff, between three and four foot 
 in length, and about two foot in heighth. Thefe Cufhions are laid behind their 
 backs, when they are fitting, after their Mode, crofs-legg'd, and thofe little Quilts 
 are, to them, inftead of Chairs, and Couches, in a Chamber. 
 
 If the Grand Falconer be remov'd out of the Seraglio, it is upon his advancement The ordinary 
 to the Charge of one of the principal Bajfas, and to one of the greater Governments, Kevam oftfc 
 as that of Cn'ra, or Babylon •, and while he continues in the Seraglio, befides his Ta- ^ r a!ui Falct ' 
 ble, which is all at the Prince's charge, he is allowM an annual Revenue, of tenor 
 twelve thoufand Crown s.The Pages of the Falconry,carry Hawks on their Finland feed 
 them; they have the liberty to go and exercife them in the Gardcnsand they all attend 
 the Grand Seignor, when he goes a Hawking, or Hunting. They wear the fame Stuffs, 
 as the Pages of the Treafury, and may alfo put onVefts of Cloath, but made after 
 fuch a fafhion, as makes them eafily diftinguiihable from ihelckoghns, of the firft and 
 fecond Chamber, who are always clad in Woollen-cloath. For the Pages of the Fal- 
 conry have their Sleeves made narrower and narrower, from the Shoulder to the Wrift, 
 and they are there faften'd clofe with Buttons •, but the Sleeves of the Pages of 
 
 (K 2) the 
 
jo A Relation of the Chap.XlV. 
 
 the Treafury, are as wide below, as they are above, and that makes the difference be- 
 tween them.' The twelve Senior Pages of the Falconry have the fame flaveries and ad- 
 vantages as the Pages of the Treafury, and are their Fellow-Commoners j but the 
 other Companions of the former , are treated after the fame rate as the Pages of the 
 Seferlif, who wa(h the Grand Seignor's Lumen, and they all common at the fame 
 Table. 
 
 Befides the fore-mentioned Pages, the Grand Faukoner has under his command 
 alee of the near eight hundred other perfons, as well in Conjlantinople as the parts adjacent there- 
 Ottoman Prin- to, perpetually employM in the ordering and training up of all forts of Birds for the 
 as imitation Q ame? and there come none into the Seraglio, but what are fo order'd, and taught. 
 to Hunting and there may ^ e a verv great nuiri ber of fuch, yet does not the Grand Seignor 
 
 Hawking. u f e Q f an y^ but what have fome ftone of value about the neck, nay fometimes 
 
 fuch as may be valued at ten thoufand Crowns. AH the Mabumetam Princes are very 
 fumptuous , in all things relating to their Game, and particularly the King of Terfta. 
 Nothing can be imagin'd more Glorious, or Magnificent , then the long Train of the 
 Grandees of his Court, when they return from their Sports. They all march in an 
 excellent order, every one with the Hawke on his Fift, and every Hawke having about 
 the neck, either a Diamond, or fome other precious ftone, of great value, with the hood 
 all cmbroidcr'd with Pearles » which muft needs make a moft delightful (how. 
 
 The Turkf, and other inhabitants of the Levant , breed up, in order to their diver- 
 *h rdS l « tifements, feveral forts of Birds, which the Europeans make no ufe of at all, and they 
 Dogs," in run- are of a larger fize, and ftronger, then ours. With thofe, inftead of Dogs, will they 
 ring 'down a run down a Hare, or a Stagge =, and they have alfo the diverfion of hunting the Wild 
 vitr,or Hare. anc } omer f ava ge Beafts. But what makes that Sport the more delightful is this, 
 
 that in Perfia, the Countrey is all open and champion, and there are no Woods, into 
 which the Hawke, or other Bird, might get out of their fight. He difcovers the Beaft 
 at a great diftance, fattens of a fudden upon it, fo as that it cannot get loofe from him, 
 and, flicking clofe to the Head, picks out the Eyes of it, vexes, and torments it, and 
 retards the fwiftnefs of its courfe, by which means, the Huntfmen come up the fooner 
 to it, and difpatch it. But they do not give the fatal blow, till the Prince has order'd 
 them to do it, or till he has ftiot off an Arrow, or difcharg'd his Fire-lock : upon 
 which fignall, they who are about him are permitted to exercife their courage and dex- 
 terity. 
 
 Next adjoyning to the Appartment of the Pages, belonging to the Falconry, there 
 is a long Gallery, which is open but of one fide, and in the floore of it, there is a little 
 afcent. It is fuftain'd by ten Pillars of Marble, of feveral colours, and pav'd with a 
 fquare-piee'd work of the fame material i with a Wainfcotage, wherein there are fome 
 flowers painted, but very meanly. 
 
 71 > Seli da From the end of the forefaid Gallery, turning on the right hand, you come to the 
 Agi'sVILmbei- Chamber of the Scliclgar-Agi, who carries the Sword before the Grand Seignor. Some 
 who carries tie part of that Chamber is cover 'd with Carpets, the other has a Seat or Scaffold, rais'd 
 Grandseignor , s three foot high, but of a confiderable breadth, to which they afcend by fo many fteps 
 Sword. c f white Marble, of four foot in length, the remainder of which Seat, being divided 
 
 frotn the Chamber by a Ballifter'd work, partly gilt with Gold , and partly Green. 
 All within that enclofure of Ballifters is cover'd with rich filken Carpets, and all about, 
 as well to the Wall fide, as to that of the Ballifters , there are fumptuous Cufhions of all 
 forts, of Cold and Silver-Brokadoes. The Walls of the Chamber are all gilt, and at 
 equal diftances, there are flower-pots painted, rarely well divert ify'd , and affording a 
 moft delightful profpect. The place where the Sdidgar-Agi fits, is at the corner of 
 that part of the Chamber which is enclos'd with the Ballifters, on the right hand, and 
 over his Head hang the Swords and Sabres, which he carries before the Grand Seignor, 
 within the Seraglio - , and after him, when his Highnefs goes out of the Seraglio. 
 
 The excellent AfToon as a Prince is come to the Crown, whatever he ordinarily wears, is never re- 
 order obftrv'd turn'd into the Treafury, till after his death : And the Chafnadur-bacbi, who is the 
 '* '** 5tr ** lt9 ' Ovcrfeer of it, finds by his Regiftries, whether all the things that were taken out of 
 
 the 
 
Chap.XV. Grand Seignor's Seraglio. 71 
 
 the Treafury , during the Grand Seignor's life, are brought into it again, at his death. 
 Whenever any piece is taken out, the Seligdar-Jgi, to whom it is deliver'd, gives the 
 principal Officer of the Treafury an acknowledgment, under hisliand, of his having re- 
 ceiv'd if, and by that means nothing can be embe7.ill'd, good order being ftridtly ob- 
 ferv'd in all things, relating to the Seraglio. In fome other parts of the Chamber you 
 rind hanging up Ponyards and Knives, all rich Pieces, and befet with precious ftones, 
 which, as all the reft, are exadtly Regiftred in the Books of the Treafury. On each fide 
 of the faid Chamber, there are two little Rooms, for four Pages of the Seferlis , who 
 wait on the Seligdar-Aga, and are always about his perfon. 'Tis now time that we 
 pafs into the Grand Seignor's Quarter. 
 
 CHAP. XV. 
 Of the Grand Seignor's Appartment. 
 
 The Principal Heads. 
 
 The Chamber of the Forty Tages. A noble Monument of the Vqlour 
 of Amurath. The fituation of the Mofqueys in Turkey. 77* 
 Ceremonies of their Devotions. A Magnificent' Winter-Chamber. 
 Tl:e myfleriow Seal of Mahomet. The great Superjlitions of 
 the Turks. Afantaftick, and covetous knack of Demotion. The 
 %elicks of Omar. A ridiculous Setl. The Grand Seignor's 
 Quarter. The Emperour Amurath's Belvedere, or place of 
 Projpetl. The Excellent Wines of the Oyl 0/ Tenedos. A per' 
 fidious Atl juflly puniJJy'd. The Fortune of a beautiful Sicilian 
 Virgin. The Grand Seignor's 'Bed-Chamber. The ancient Ve- 
 neration of the Turks for Mahomet 's-lSdrnzfr. A Ipord farther 
 of the Trince's Appartment. 
 
 T Hough the inner part of the Seraglio ought properly to be divided into but 
 two great Quarters, which are the Grand Seignors own Quarter, and the 
 Quarter of the SultaneJJ'es ■■, yet have I thought it more convenient, for the 
 Reader's better remembrance of things, to diftinguilh to him the different 
 parts, of which the former confifts, anfwerably to its feveral ufes: and after a large 
 account, given of the Baths, the Treafury, the Cup-Bearer's Office, and the Falconry, 
 I come now to the particular Appartment of the Grand Seignors Perfon. 
 
 The Haz-Oda is the firft Structure that offers it felf to your view, and 'tis by that Th( chmbtr 
 name the 7wrjy call the fourth and higheft Claffe of the tchogim\ which is the Cham- 0 f ^ forty 
 ber of the Forty Pages, who are hourly employ'd in the Grand Seigno/s Service. This peg «. 
 Chamber is of the fame largenefs, as that of the Pages of the Treafury, and furnuh'd 
 much after the fame rate =, but it is not near fo lightfome, or rather, it wants light. 
 As there is not fo great a number of them, fo have they accordingly more place to fit, 
 or lye down > and in the midft of the Chamber, you rind a little fquare place, rais'd 
 up fomewhat higher than the Beds of the Pages, whence the Haz-Oda-bacbi^ their 
 Governour, may obferve all their actions, and fee how they demean themfetves. He 
 has order to give the Grand Seignor notice of it } Rewards being the confequences of 
 
A Relation of the Chap. XV 
 
 good a&ions, as chaftiiements are, of bad ones •, and it is alfb incumbent upon him, to 
 make fpeedy provifion of all the things they ftand in need of. Over the Door of that 
 Chamber, thefe words, La Ilia He Ilia, &c. whereof I have often made mention,are 
 engraved in large golden Letters ■■> and at the four corners, are the Names of Maho- 
 met's four Companions, Ebott-bekpr, Omar, Ofman, and Ali, engrav'd in like manner 
 in black Marble. When the Grand Seignor has made a Baffa, and that he is to take 
 his leave of his Highneis, to go to his Government, he comes out at that Door, where 
 all thofe names are engrav'd, and as foon as he is come out, he turns his face again to 
 the Door, and kiffes the Threfhold of it, with great humility. 
 
 As foon as you are come into the Chamber, you find on the right hand feveral 
 words of the Law, written, and enchae'd, in guilt fquares, and one of thefe Wri- 
 tings is, of Sultan Achmet's, the Father of Amurath. On the left hand, you find, 
 AtobltMtnu* faften'd to the Wall, a Coat of Mail, a Head-piece, and a great Buckler j it is one of 
 mint of Amu- me Monuments of Amuratlfs Valour. During the Siege of Bagdet, or Babylon, a 
 rath s Va our. p gr j- Jan com i n g out 0 f tne City, and challenging any one of the Befiegers to meet 
 him, that Prince, one of the moft courageous and Ifrongeft men of his age, would 
 needs receive him himfelf, without any other Arms, than a Sabre in his hand, though 
 the Perftan was arm'd from head to foot. Amurath who was not only a prodigious 
 Perfon as to ftrength, and valour, but alfo well skill'd in the ufe of a Weapon, af- 
 forded him not the time to confider whom he had to deal withal, but immediately 
 gave him fuch a furious blow with the Sabre, over the right moulder, that he cut his 
 coat of Mail quite to the Middle of his Body, and left him dead upon the place. 
 
 Oppofite to the Haz-Oda 3 or the Chamber of the forty Pages, there is a Gallery of 
 a cbnfiderable length, and particularly remarkable for its Structure. It is open on 
 both fides, and has, of each, a row of white Marble-Pillars => but it is built after the 
 Serpentine fafhion, and they who walk in it are, every fix paces, out of fight one of 
 the other. There are, under this Gallery four great PrerTes, to put up the accoutre- 
 ments of the four Officers, who are always about the Grand Seignor's Perfon, to wit, 
 the Sdigdar-Aga, the Chokadar-Aga> the Requabdar-Aga ) and the Hazoda-bacbi, of 
 whom I have (poken at the beginning of this Pvelation, when I gave a Lift of the 
 Grandees of the Port. 
 
 This Gallery, of Co fantaftick and Co extraordinary a Structure, is not far from that 
 other,which is a continu'd afcent,and whereof I made mention in the precedent Chap- 
 ter. Oppofite to this laft, there is a Mofquey, of the middle fort, as to the largenefs, 
 the length of it fomewhat exceeding its breadth, and it ftands North and South, a 
 fituation the Turfy obferve in all their Mofqueys,which are always turn'd towards Me- 
 cba, which place is Meridional to all the Provinces of the Empire. There is in the 
 Wall, oppofite to the South, a kind of Neech, which they call Mibrab, into which 
 the Imam, who is their Pried, gets up, to fay Prayers at the accuftomed hours, and 
 the Grand Seignor is prefent thereat, with the forty Pages of theHaz-Oda, in a little 
 Ptoom, the Window whereof is oppofite to the Neech. On both fides of the faid 
 Neech, there is a Gallery fuftain'd by five Pillars, fome whereof are of green Mar- 
 ble, and the reft of Porphyry. And in the Mofquey, and in the Chamber, or Room, 
 into which the Grand Seignor comes to do his Devotions, and in the two Galleries, 
 there's no going but upon rich Carpets. You are not to look for ought of paint- 
 ing there i nor have the Walls any other Ornament, than that of the whiteneis 
 of the Marble, whereof they are built. But there are a great many Writings,in large 
 .^>\j&/c^Gharadrers, enchae'd in gilt Borders, hanging up in feveral places, and thofe 
 Writings contain only things taken out of the Law of Mahomet. 
 
 The Window of the Chamber, into which the Grand Seignor comes to do his De- 
 votions, is fix foot in length, and three foot high, and has a Lattice, with a Curtain 
 behind it, as it is in feveral Chappels, which our Chriftian Princes have in their Pala- 
 ces. There is alfo oppofite to the lame Neech, before-mentioned, fuch another Win- 
 dow, and fuch another Chamber, for the Sultaneffes, and when the Muezim, whofe 
 ftation is of one fide of the Iman^ and who is as it were his Clerk, hears the draw- 
 ing 
 
 Thi fcituation 
 of the Mofqtils 
 in Turkey. 
 
Chap.XV. Grand Seignors Seraglio. 73 
 
 ingof the Curtains, he immediately rings a fmall Bell, which is the fignal, that the 
 Grand Seignor and the Sukanefles are come into their feveral Rooms. 
 
 Upon their arrival,the forefaid Muezim begins to fing thefe two vtox&StAllahuEfyer, The ceremonies 
 which fignifieSjGw/ it Gmrf,rcpeating them four times : and afterwards, having added of their Deve* " 
 thereto fome words, fpeaking as 'twere to himfelf, the Iman in his turn, fings thefe 
 following ■■> Elhamdu Villain Kabbil alemijn, that is to (ay, The Grace of God it the 
 Majlcr of all things. He thus continues the Prayer, proftrating himfelf feveral times 
 to the ground, and all the people prefent do alfo proftrate themfelves as he does. 
 
 In the midft of the Domo of the Mofquey , there is a Hoop of Iron, all about 
 which there hangs a great number of Lamps, of Fewice-Cryftal, and there are alfo 
 fome difpos'd along the Galleries, of the fame Metal, they being not permitted to 
 have in their Mofqueys, either Gold or Silver. They do not light thofe Lamps, but 
 only for the Prayers at night, and the fire cafting a reflection on thofe Cryftals, cre- 
 ates a moft delightful Object to the fight. 
 
 The Chamber of the Sarai-Agafi, one of the four principal Eunuchs, is adjoyning 
 to that Mofquey, and the leaft of all the Chambers, of the Officers, belonging to the 
 Inner-part of the Seraglio. He has but little place more than is requilite for him to 
 ileep in, and he is waited on by two Pages of the CoHchouf^Oda^ or the little Cham- 
 ber. 
 
 Adjoyning to the Door of the Haz-Oda, there is a Hall pav'd with a Checquer- 
 work, of black and white Marble, in the midft whereof there is a Balm of the fame 
 material, but of feveral colours, out of which there is an afcent of water four or five 
 foot high. That water is receiv'd into a fecond Balm, made in the form of a Scal- 
 lop-ihell, out of which it falls again into a third, much larger than the two precedent 
 ones. The upper-part of the Hall is built Domo-wife, having therein fome Win- 
 dows, which give it light, and a certain piece of dull painting is all the Ornament 
 of its Walls. At your entrance into this Hall, you fee two Doors, one on the right 
 hand, the other, on the left. That on the left hand conducts to a Flower-Garden i 
 and the other is the door of a Chamber, into which the Grand Seignor comes, fome- 
 times, in the Winter-feafon. 
 
 This Chamber is one of the moft fumptuous of any in the Seraglio. It's arched A magnificent 
 Roof is divided into a great number of little Cells, Triangle-wife, diltinguilh'd by 
 two little filets of Gold, with a green ftreak in the midit, and cut of every Angle, 
 there juts fomewhat like the bottom of a Lamp, excellently well gilt. Though the 
 Walls are of a curious white Marble, yet is there a delicate piece of Wainfcotage, of 
 about the height of a man's wafte, carried quite round the Room, and the rich Car- 
 pets, upon which you walk, deprive your light of the large fquares of Marble, of fe- 
 veral colours, wherewith the Floor is embellilh'd. Of a great number of Culhions, 
 which are plac'd along the Walls, fome are embroider'd with Pearls, and precious 
 Stones, and fet there only for oltentation ; the others, which are for fervice, are co- 
 ver'd with Gold, or Silver-Brokadoes, and other coftly Stuffs. At one of the cor- 
 ners of the Chamber, there is a little Field-bed, about two foot in heighth, embroi- 
 der'd all over, the Counterpane, the Culhions, and the Quilt \ and that Embroidery 
 is all of Pearles, Rubies, and Emeralds. But when the Grand Seignor is to come in- 
 to that Chamber, they take away the Counterpane and Culhions, which are lefs fit 
 for Service than for Ornament, and they bring in others of quilted or tufted Velvet, 
 or Satin, upon which the Grand Seignor may more conveniently repofe him- 
 felf. 
 
 Towards the feet of the faid Bed, there is a kind of Neech made within the very Mahomet's 
 Wall, in which there is a little Ebony Box, about half a foot fquare, and in that is seaU 
 lock'd up Mahomet's Seal. It is enchae'd in a Cryttal, with a Bordure of Ivory, and 
 taking all together, it may be four inches in length, and three in breadth. I have 
 Gen the Impreffion of it upon a piece of Paper •, but he who (hew'd it me, would not 
 
 fuffer 
 
 1 
 
74 A Relation of the Chap. XV. 
 
 furkrme to touch it, only upon this fcore, that he look'd on it as 'a great Relick. 
 Once in three months this Chamber is made clean, and the Carpets are ehang'd, 
 the Pages of the Treafury being employ'd in that Office. And then it is, that the 
 Cb iTnddar-bacbi opens the Box, and having in his hands an embroider'd Hand-ker- 
 chief, he takes out the Seal, with great refped and reverence, whilit the Senior of the 
 Pages holds a golden Cup, garnilh'd with Diamonds and blue Saphirs, on the top of 
 which there is a kind of Perfuming-Pot, out of which there comes an exhalation of 
 all forts of fweet Scents, whereby the whole Room is in a manner embalm'd. The 
 Page holds that Cup in both his hands joy'nd together, and lifting it up higher than 
 his Head, all thofe that are prefent immediately proftrate themfclvcs to - the ground, 
 as an acknowledgment of their veneration. As foon as they are up again, the Page 
 brings down the Cup, lower than his chin, and the principal Officer of the Treafury, 
 holding the Seal over the ffnoke, all thofe who are in the Room, come and kifs the 
 Chrvltal which, covers one of the molt precious Relicks, that they have of their Pro- 
 phet. I have us'd all the endeavours I could, to get out of my two Officers of the 
 Treafury, who had often kifs'd that Chryftal, what Obfcrvations they might have 
 made, as to the material whereof the Seal was made, and what Letters were en- 
 grav'd upon it •, but they told me, and by reafon of the fmoke.and the Chryftal, 
 which covers the Seal, not to infill on the fmall time they have to obferve it, during 
 the ad of kiifmg it, it is not poiTible that any one can give a certain judgment cf" ei- 
 ther the Stuff, or the Engraving of it. 
 
 Upon the fourteenth day of the Ramazan-, that is to lay, the Lent of the Turkj, 
 the Grand Seignor comes in perfon into that Chamber, accompany'd only by the Se- 
 ligdar-Aga, and taking off the Chryftal, which lies over the Seafhe delivers it into his 
 hands, ordering him to make the Impreifion of it upon fifty little bits of Paper, which 
 are not much bigger than the Seal it felf. This Impreifion is taken off with a certain 
 gummy Ink, which is prepar'd in a Pourcelain Diih, whereinto he thrufts his finger, 
 and rubs the Seal with it, and keeps all thofe Printed Papers^ for the ufe, to which 
 his Highnefs defigns them, as we thall fee, e're we come to the end of this Chap- 
 ter. 
 
 The great Su* Within the fame Chamber, and adjoyning to the place, where the Seal -is kept^ 
 
 Ihf Talks ^ icre * s anotner ^ ox or C°ffe r :> °f a l a rg er fijej cover'd with a Carpet of green Vel- 
 vet, with a great fringe of Gold and Silver, wherein is kept Mahomet's Hirka. It 
 is a Garment with large fleeves, of a white Camelet, made of Goat's hair, which the 
 Turks do alfo look upon as a great Relick. The Grand Seignor having taken it out of 
 the Coffer, kiffes it with much refped.and puts it into the hands of the Capi-Aga^who 
 is come into the Room by his Order, after they had taken the ImpreiTions of the Seal. 
 The Officer fends to the Overfeer of the Treafury, for a large golden Cauldron,which 
 is brought in thither by fome of the Senior-Pages. It is fo capacious, according to 
 the defcription which they gave me of it, as to contain the fixth part of a Tun, and 
 the out-tide of it is garnilh'd, in fome places, with Emeralds, and Turquezes, This 
 Veffel is hlfd with water within fix ringers breadth of the brink, and the Capi-Aga x 
 having put Mahomet's Garment into it, and left it to foak a little while, takes it out 
 again, and wrings it hard, to get out the water it had imbib'd , which falls into the 
 Cauldron, taking great care, that there falls not any of it to the ground. That done, 
 with the (aid water he fills a great number of Few'ce-Chryftal Bottles,containing about 
 half a pint, and when he has Uopp'd them, he Seals them with the Grand Seignor's 
 Seal. They afterwards fet the Garment a drying, till the twentieth day of the Ra~ 
 .mazan^ and then his Highnefs comes to fee them put up again in the Coffer. 
 
 'A ridiculous The next day after that Ceremony, which is the fifteenth after their grand Fart, 
 Tnack V of 0 Devih ^ Sultan ^ cnc ^ s to me Sultaneffes^ and the Grandees of Conjiantinople^ as alfo to molt 
 lion V °^ me confiderable BaJJa's of the Empire, to each of them, an Impreifon of the Seal, 
 in a little fcrip of Paper roll'd up, and well faften'd with Silk, and with that, one of 
 thofe Bottles full of water, which is look'd upon as a great favour. But it proves a 
 very dear favour to thofe who receive it, and for a fcrip of Paper, and a Glafs of 
 water, they muft fend back again to the Grand Seignor very conftderable Prefents, 
 
 not 
 
Chap. XV. Grand Seignofs Seraglio. 75 
 
 not accounting what they beftow on thofe perfons, who bring, from him, thofe tefti- 
 monies and marks of his Affection. 
 
 It is to be obfcrv'd alfo, That the Capi-Aga is allow'd to multiply the faid Water,as 
 far as he thinks requiiite, and anfwerably to his defire of multiplying the Prefents. All 
 he has to do, is only to fill up the Cauldron, as it is emptied, and that additional wa- 
 ter is»as good as 'twas before, fmce it is intermix'd with that wherein Mahomet's Gar- 
 ment' had been foak'd. For there are many perfons, to whom he fends thofe Bottles, 
 without the impreffion of the Seal, upon the little piece of paper, and he has a fnack out 
 of all that is beftow'd on the Bearers of thofe Prefents. But he is not permitted to 
 make that multiplication of the Water, any longer than for the fpace of .three dayes h 
 that is to fay, till the Seventeenth of the Ramazan, after which time, the additional 
 intermixture of it would not have the Vertue, which they imagine it has. 
 
 As foon as this Prefent is receiv'd by thofe to whom it is fent, they take the paper, 
 which has the impreffion of Mahomet's Seal, and, after they have left it to foake a little 
 while in the Water of the little Chryftal bottle, they take off the water and the paper, 
 fwallowing down both together with great devotion. But it is to be noted, That no 
 body muft be fo prefumptuous as to open that paper ;> for they fwallow it down as it 
 is brought to them, after a little foaking in the water, they being not permitted to fee 
 the impreiTion of the facred Seal : And they, who receive only the bottle, without the 
 paper, fend for one of their Imans, who are as 'twere their Priefts, and get him to 
 write down thefe words in another piece of paper, La he Ilia, Alia huljiabidtd gebbar 3 
 That is to fay, There is no other Cod then God, the punijhcr of Crimes. There are others, 
 who order thefe words to be writ down \ La Ilia he Ilia, Allahul meliquid yebbab i 
 which lignifies, There is no other God then God alone, the Liberal Emperour, and Pardoner 
 of Offences. The paper, having thefe words written upon it, is put into the water of 
 the little Bottle, and fo they fwallow down both together, with a ftrong perfwalion, 
 that thofe words have the fame vertue, as the impreffion of the Seal. 
 
 There is alfo to be feen, in the fame Chamber, a very homely kind of Cuttelas,haug- The Relicts of 
 ing by the Wall, near the place where the Prophet's Seal and Garment are kept. The 0raa r. 
 Scabbard is cover'd with Green cloath, and they have it by Tradition, that it had 
 been the Cuttelas of Omar, one of Mahomet's four Companions, who govern'd after 
 him, though Ebou-Bequer was the elder of the two, and Father-in-law to Mahomet, 
 The Arabians affirm, That Ebou-Bequer was a Jew, by extraction, and one of the moil 
 learned of his time \ and that, having renoune'd the MofaickJLzvf, he taught at Mecha, 
 in the Schools, after which he befet himfelf to compofe fome part of the Alcoran. 
 
 Near the Cuttelas, there is alfo to be feen a kind of lhort Sword, for which they 
 have, in like manner, a great veneration, upon a perfwafion, that it fome time was the 
 Sword of a certain perfon named Ebou-Nijlum, with which he cut to pieces, thofe,who 
 had fpread a Herefie in the Law of Mahomet. He came not into the World till Four 
 hundred years after the death of the Prophet, and at length deftroy'd that Sect, which 
 during the fpace of two Ages before, had given much trouble to the true Mahumetans^ 
 and gain'd feveral Battels againft them. 
 
 The faid Seel was grown veiy powerful under the denomination of Mubarriguu, and A r m cu [ aui 
 I have met with fome remainders of it in the Mountains of Churdifian, which is the sett. 
 ancient Chaldea. Thofe people are very remarkable for their fuperllition, and much 
 more for their ignorance ■-, and a man muft have a great care of ftriking a black Dogjin 
 their pretence, or cutting an Onion with a Knife i for their way, when they are to 
 eat an Onion, is to crufh it between two ftones. The caufe of that grofs ignorance, 
 is their hot having any perfon among them, to inftruct them =, and a man may travel 
 five or fix dayes Journey in their Country, and not meet with either a Mollah, or a 
 Mofquey. The fame rcafon may alfo be given for their being, for the moft part, uncir- 
 cumcis'd, and that they who have receiv'd Circumcifion, had it not till they were 
 Twelve or fifteen years of age, and that accidentally, by going to fome place at a great 
 diftance, to find out a Mollah, and defraying the charges of their Friends and Rela- 
 tions, who muft accompany them to that ceremony. 
 
 C L ) Between 
 
A Relation of the Chap.XV. 
 
 Between the Chamber, where thefe noble Relicks are to be feen, and that of the 
 Forty Pages, of which I have given an account at the beginning of this Chapter, you 
 have the Profped of a treble portal of Porphyry, that is, three doors at a fmall di- 
 ftance one from the other, whereof that in the middle gives entrance into the Grand. 
 Seignor's Appartment. The two others lead to the Lodgings of the Chokidar- A 'g<*,and 
 the Riquabdar-Aga, and thofe Lodgings are very dark, becaufe they are not in a place 
 where light can be brought into them, and that at the firft building thereof they could 
 afford each of them but one little Window. But, abating that inconvenience, they are 
 well enough furnifh'd, according to the modecf the Country, you tread on nothing 
 but Silken Carpets \ there's no want of Brokado-Cufhions, and emboyder'd ones, and 
 the Walls, which are all of White Marble, entertain the Eye with pots of Flowers 
 plainly painted, at certain equal diftances, about which there has been an ingenious 
 application of Gold and Azure. 
 
 The Grand Seignor's Quarter begins with a Hall, which is fpacious enough, and 
 the embellifhments of the in-fide of it are correfpondent to thofe of the out-lide. It 
 is an incruftation of Marble, of feveral colours, and the Floor of it is cover'd only 
 with the large Woollen Carpets, which are brought out of Persia, but fuch as are 
 more fumptuous, and much more highly efteem'd, than thofe which are made of Silk. 
 All about the Hall, for the fpace of Five foot, there are fpread Coverlets of Silk, of a 
 light colour, fome Tufted, fome Embroyder'd, and upon the Coverlets there are fe- 
 veral forts of Rich Cufhions, four foot in lengthy and between two and three, in 
 breadth. 
 
 Of the two Doors, which are within the Hall, one goes to the Appartment of the 
 Pages, the other to the Quarter of the SultaneJJ'es, and as you go out by this laft 
 mentioned, you enter into a Flower-Garden, in the midft whereof there is a Bafin 
 with its water-work. From one of the ends of the Garden you pafs to the •Kevan- 
 Kouchlq, that is to fay, a Chamber fupported by Pillars. It is a Belvedere, or fpacious 
 Room, having a delightful Profpecf of all fides, which the Sultan Amurath caus'd to 
 be built, at his return from the Perfian War, after he had taken the City of Babylon 
 from Shacb-Sefi, the King of that Kingdom, ruin'd the Province of tauris, and added 
 that of Erivan to his Conquefts, by the perfidioufnefs of the Governour. I fhall give 
 you an account anon, how he was juftly punifh'd, for that act of Treachery, and I 
 referve the compleat hiftory of his bafenefs, for the Relations of my Travels. 
 
 This Room, or Arbour, which we call the Belvedere, from the delightfulnefs of its 
 ProfpecT, is built in an Eminent place, upon a fteepy Rock. It is a noble Arched 
 Roof, and the Walls, which are rais'd no higher then that a man may reft his Elbow 
 on them, are all of White Marble, with fome Arabian Verfes thereon, cut, and gilt. 
 It is open of all fides, and the Lattices, all about it, hinder thofe that are within it from 
 being feen by fuch as are on the out-fide, and afford them withal one of the moft deli- 
 cate Profpects in the World. For, from that Room, they have the fight of all Galatct 
 and Pera, all that pleafant Landskip of Afta, about Scutaret, and Chalcedon, the Port 
 of Constantinople) one of the nobleft of all Europe, and the Channel of the Blacky Sea t 
 which, at the point of the Seraglio, is intermixt with the Waters of the Mediterranean, 
 where there is obfervable in the midft, as it were, a white foamy ftreak, which feems 
 naturally to denote the Confines of Europe and Afta. 
 
 Thi ExceHmt 'Twas in this pleafant Arbour, that Amurath was often wont to divert himfelf, with 
 wins c/Te- that Governour of Erivan, who had taught him to drink Wine, whereto he had fo 
 eafily accuftom'd himfelf, that, many times, he fpent three days together, in a continu'd 
 debauch. The only Wine he drunk was that of the Wand di'tenedos^ the moft excel- 
 lent of any of the Iflands of the Archiphclago, and the leaft intoxicating ■, and he foon 
 became as good a proficient in the drinking of it, as the Matter, who had taught him to 
 do it. This Perftan Governour was a man extreamly inclin'd to debauchery, infomuch 
 that before his perfidious delivery of the place to Amurath, as I pafs'd through Erivan, 
 in one of my Voyages to Perfia, he intreated me to make my abode there for the fpace 
 of fifteen days, and, to humour him, there was a neceility of {pending whole nights in 
 drinking, fo that I faw him not all the day long, which I qucltion not but he employ'd 
 in the management of his affairs, and taking his repofe. But, 
 
 / 
 
 The Grand 
 Seignor's 
 Quartir. 
 
 Amumh's 
 Bilvedtre. 
 
Chap. XV. Grand Seignor s Seraglio. 77 
 
 But, at the long run, lewd actions meet with the punifhment they jullly defcrve. Perfidiofnefi 
 Sbach-Sef, King of Perfia, would not entertain any proportion of Peace, no nor fo pxifo'd. 
 much as give audience to an Ambaffador from the Grand Seignor,whom 1 faw fent back 
 from Ijpaban, where I then was, unlefs Amurath would deliver up the Traytor, in or- 
 der to his punifhment. Whereupon , they being both one day at their ordinary de- 
 bauch, in the Belvedere, the Grand Seignor, without any formality , ordered him to be 
 Strangled, in his pretence. 
 
 It was fometimes alfo AmuratFs cuftome, to bring into that pleafant place, the Tlx Fortune of 
 Principal S/dtamJfes, as, his Mothers, his Sifters, and fuch others as he had the greateft a, beautiful 
 kindnefs for. But his moft frequent alTignations there, was with a Sicilian Lady , for kalian Lici 1- 
 whom he had a great affection, and who, being extreamly handfome, and of a mild 
 difpofition, obtain d of him whatere fhe defir'd. She was taken at Sea, by the Pyrates 
 ofBarbary, as fhe was upon her Voyage into Spain, in order to her intermarriage with 
 one of the Grandees of that Countrey: And the BajJ'a of Algiers fent her, a Pretent, 
 to the Grand Seignor, who took a particular fancy for her, and made her as happy, as 
 a Woman can be, who muft endure the reftraint of the Seraglio. 
 
 From that door of the Hall, which gives entrance into the Flower-garden, you pais, fht Grand 
 on the right hand, into a kind of Gallery, about fifty paces in length, and twelve in Seignofs Bed* 
 breadth, the pavement whereof is a Chequer-work of Black and White Marble. At the chmbtr. 
 end of it there is a great Structure, which is wholly of Marble, and what firft enter- 
 tains the Eye is a pretty large Door, over which there is a kind of a flat arched Roo£ 
 And both the Roof^ and the Door, are adorn'd with flowers, in embofs'd Work j and 
 amongft thofe flowers, there are certain impreffes cut in the Marble,and all curioufly Gilt. 
 
 About five or fix paces from that Door, you come to another, not inferiour to it, as 
 to beauty, which is that of the Grand Seignor's own Chamber. Its Cieling, or arched 
 Roof, is according to the model of the Winter-room, whereof I have given you a De- 
 fcription at the beginning of this Chapter. The only difference between them is, in 
 what ifTues out out of the Angles of the little Arches - , and whereas in the other Room, 
 they reprefent the bottoms of Lamps, gilt with Gold i in this, they are balls of Rock- 
 Cryflall, cut Facet-wife, with an inter-mixture of precious ftones, of different colours, 
 which muff needs give a very divertive entertainment to the Eye. The floor of it is 
 cover' d with Carpets, which, as to beauty, and excellency of Workmanlhip , exceed 
 thofe of the other Chambers j and the fame thing is to be faid, as to the Quilts, the 
 Counterpanes, and the Cuthions h the moll part of this furniture being adorn'd with 
 an embroidery of Pearls, and the whole Room,which is very fpacious, having, in all 
 parts, teveral other fumpruous embellishments. And whereas this Room was Origi- 
 nally defign'd for the Grand Seignor's Summer-Divertifcment, it is accordingly the 
 more lightfome, and has large Windowes on three fides of it. As to the Sultans Lodg- 
 ing, he complies with the cuftome of the Countrey, or rather that of all the Eaftern 
 parts. There is no Bed-Head fet up, but towards the Evening, the Pages fpread three 
 Quilts one upon the other, at one of the corners of the Chamber, and phce over it a 
 Canopy of Cloth of Gold, gami'.h'd with an embroidery of Pearls. 
 
 On the right hand, as you come into this Room, there is a Cup-board, or Prefs, ^ht ancient 
 wrought within the very Wall, where they keep the Bajarac, that is to fay, the Stan- Feneration fir 
 dard of Mahomet, which has thefe words for its Imprefs or Motto, Nafrum min Allah, M<homet7 
 that is, in our Language, 1 he afijhnce if from God. This Standard was heretofore in SUn d&<i' 
 fo great veneration amongft the Juries, that when there happen' d any Sedition, either 
 at Conjtantinople, or in the Armies, there was no fafer or more expeditious remedy to 
 appeafe it, then to expofe that Standard to the fight of the Rebels. And that very 
 Expedient has many times prov'd very fortunate to the Ottoman Princes, when they 
 have been redue'd to their great extremities, by the fecret Combinations of fome Facti- 
 ous perfons. Then does the Grand Seignor fend fome of the Mollahs, who are in the 
 nature of Priefls, amongft the lurk/, with the Standard, and being come up to the firit 
 tanks of the Rebellious Forces, they fpeak to them, in their Language , to this effect : 
 This Banner is the Standard of the Prophet i all they who are faithful, and obedient, ought 
 to come to fubmit themfelves at the Foot of this Standard \ and they who will not come to it, 
 
 ( L 2 ) are 
 
A Relation of the Chap. X VI. 
 
 are Unbelievers, and\they ought to be defiroyed. But fome years fince, the Turks made it 
 appear, that they made but little account of that Standard •, for Hajfan, one of the B*f- 
 fa's, who gave the Grand Seignor fo much trouble in the year i^S.turn'd his back 
 on Mahomet s Banner, and, follow'd by . his own party, compafs'd me defign he was 
 engag'd in. 
 
 Out of the Grand Seignor's Chamber, there is a pafTage into a great Hall, the place 
 appointed for the reception of the Pages who approach his Perfon and there is ad- 
 joyning to it a Bath, which is fill'd by three Cocks, where they wa(h themielves, when 
 they go to their Devotions. Out of the fame HalL, there is an afcent of fome fteps, 
 which brings you to a fmall Clofet, only Wainfcoted about, but well Painted, and well 
 Gilt. That Stair-cafe is alwayes cover'd with a red Cloth, the Room is open of all 
 fides, having fair Windowes, wherein Talc is us'd, inftead of Glafs =, and from thence 
 you have, in a manner, the fame Profped, as from the Belvedere, built by the Emperour 
 Amurath. 
 
 A word further 
 of the Prince's 
 Appartment* 
 
 C H A P. X VI. 
 
 Of the ordinary employments of the Grand Seignor . The 
 particular inclinations of the Emperour-Regent, Mahomet 
 IV. And the prefent State of the Ottoman Family. 
 
 The Principal Heads. 
 
 Some inclinations common to all the Monarchs of the Eajlern-parts, 
 The Life of the Seraglio, delicious to one /ingle perfon, and incom- 
 modious to many. The Mahumetanes zealous obferVers of their 
 LaM?. Tlx regulated times of their public k Demotions. The 
 ordinary Employments of the Grand Seignor. How his Table is 
 ferVd. The Sultan, "S^hen oblig'd to go, in Ceremony, to the 
 Mbfquey. The unched contrivances of the Moufti, to get mony. 
 The prefent State of the Ottoman Family. An extraordinary 
 example of a Father and Son, Tbho Ipere fuccej?ively Grand Vi- 
 zirs. The pourtraiture of the Sult^n-^egent, Mahomet. The 
 ancient Cuflome of the Turkifli Emperour s, to live by their labour. 
 The Grand Seignor s fubtdty , in revenging himfelf of the 
 Moufti. 
 
 inclinations PNt * H E Ottoman Monarchs, and generally all the Princes of Afia, what reputa- 
 common to the tion foever they may have gain'd, for their valour, have alwayes been guilty 
 
 Eaflern Mo- 0 f a bent to voluptuoufnefs, and efferrvinacy,and found great charms in a iloth- 
 
 nX!c ^ u ful kind of life. They come out of their Seraglio's as feldome as they can, 
 
 and that only, when an indifpenfable necellity forces them to (hew themfelves in pub- 
 lick, whether it be at the head of their Armies, or in thole Ceremonies , wherein 
 the Law, or common Civilities, require thetr prefence. True it is, that fome of them 
 were not fo great lovers of retirement as others, and preferr'd the hardlhips of Warr, 
 the divertifements of Hunting, before the blandilhments of eafc, and the convexfation 
 
 ©f 
 
Chap.XVI. Grand Seignors Seraglio. 79 
 
 of Women: But thofe may be reduc'd into a very ftnall number, and the greatefl part 
 of them being more addicted to mind their quier,and to lead a life void of disturbance, 
 have transfer'd all their concerns, Civil and Military, to the management of the prin- 
 cipal Minifter of State, thinking it enough, to content themfelves with the account he 
 was pleas'd to give him thereof. 
 
 It may be faid of the Seraglio, That it is a delicious, but withal a folitary place of The Seraglio, a. 
 abode : but as to the obfcrvations I have made of things,it is delicious only to a fingle P lace delicious 
 perfon, and folitary to all the reft. Of the many Thousands, of the Male Sex, who t0 r ° n< ^'f e . 
 are there as 'twere in Prifon, and have a dependence, one upon the other, none but TammodioJu 
 the Prince himfelf has the light of Women ■■> tor the Negro-Eunuchs, whom their de- many. 
 formity of body and countenance has, in a manner, transform'd into Monlters, are not 
 to be admitted into the number of men. 
 
 But though the Ottoman Monarchs, and generally all that may be comprehended rbe Mahume- 
 under the denomination of Turcifme^ are involv'd in voluptuoulhefs, as not having tans jealous 
 any tincture of ought relating to polite Literature, yet this is particularly recommend- obfervers of the 
 able in them, that their great purfuance of pleaiures does not ever make them neglect Law ' 
 the Divine Worlhip, and that, fetting all things afide,they are careful to perform what 
 the Law requires of them, upon that account. They are exact and punctual, even to 
 fuperitition, in all their exercifes of Piety, in their wayes of warning themfelves, in their 
 Prayers, in their Fails, in their Alms, and in their Pilgrimages i which are the Five 
 principal Articles of the Mabimetan Religion. 
 
 It is a thing fufficiently well known to all people, that the- Turks go to their Pray- 7^ re g H i aU[ i 
 ers, or Devotions, five times a day, that is, in the (pace of a natural Day, which times of their 
 amounts to four and twenty hours. For the performance of this work, there are no Dti'otions% 
 certain hours appointed, and it is according to the Sun's being above their Horizon. 
 Upon which account, there is a greater interval between their feveral Offices, in the 
 Summer-time, than there is in the Winter, and they place the principal part of their 
 Devotion upon obfervations of that nature. The rirlt Exercife is to be perform'd at 
 the break of day, before Sun-riling i the lecond at Noon ■•, the third, between that 
 time and Sun-fet •, the fourth, immediately after his letting y and the laft, about an 
 hour and a half after Night : in all which, unlets ticknefs intervene , they are very 
 punctual, fo that nothing of bulinefs, how important foever, Ifiall divert them. 
 
 Nay, on the contrary, fome are fo zealous, and their fervour is fo remarkable, that Their fervour 
 being once rixt in their Prayers, they could not be put out of them, though 'twere to ** a p s °f De " 
 force back an Enemy, who were entring into the City, or that word Ihould be 1J0tl0n - 
 brought them, that the houfe wherein they are, was on rire. They are moreover of a 
 perfwaiion, that it is a great fin, for them to put their hand to any part of the body, 
 to fcratch themfelves, if there Ihould be occafion \ and they would have the external 
 part to be anfwerable to the internal, and correfpondent to that abjection, which 
 ought to be the ftate of the Soul, in the prefence of God, during their Exercifes of 
 Devotion. 
 
 Nor does the Grand Seignor himfelf defire to be difpens'd from the obligation of The Grand 
 performing thefe acts of Devotion, any more than the meaneli of his Subjects i but, Seignor's ordU 
 on the contrary, he is very religious in that obfervance of their Law, and he always * 3ry Em P^y- 
 begins the day with the Offices appointed for that part of it. We need fay no more, mnU ' 
 than that herifes at the break of day, nay fometimes he is up before, and goes into 
 the Bath to warn himfelf, efpecially when he has lain with one of his Wives, or Con- 
 cubines. Having rinifh'd his Prayers, he diverts himfelf in (hooting with the Bowe, 
 or, more commonly in looking after his Horfes,and riding fome of them : and fome- 
 times he feats himfelf in a Gallery, where he cannot be feen by any, and contents 
 himfelf with the diverfion of feeing fome exercifes perform'd by his Pages. If any 
 one of them does fomething that he is much pleas'd withal, he fends him a Veil, or 
 fome other thing of value, as an encouragement for his doing better another time, 
 and to raife an emulation in his Companions. Upon Council-days,he comes through 
 the clofe Gallery, to the Window, which looks into the Divan Hall, to fee what they 
 
 are 
 
80 A Relation of the Ctiap.XVI. 
 
 are doing there •> and upon the rifing of the Council, he returns to his own Quarter, 
 where his Dinner is brought up to him. 
 
 The services of * n tne Services °f his Table, there is not any great variety, or delicacy, the Dith- 
 bit Table. cs that are ferv'd up, being anfwerable to the Bill of fare, which I have given you in 
 the Chapter, where I treat of the Kitchins. He takes his refection, fitting, crofs-legg'd, 
 as Taylors do amongft us, being furrounded with fumptuous Brocado-cufhions, 
 which keep from him the dampnefs of the Walls, and upon the Carpets which cover 
 the Scaffold, Gr Balcony, where he is feated, they fpread others of Spanijh-L&xher y 
 left the former (hould be prejudic'd by any thing of greafinefs, which might fall on 
 the Table-cloath, and foak through it. ThisCloath, which is laid over the Spanijh- 
 Leather-Carpet, is of thofe fumptuous painted Cloaths, which are made in the In- 
 dies, and embroHer'd all about : and as for Napkins, there are not any ufed amongft 
 the Turfy, who are neat, and cleanly at their Meal. 1- , and if fometimes there be any 
 occafion of wiping, 'tis done with a little handkerchief. At their retentions, they ufe 
 the right hand only, and when they have done, there isaBafin of warm water and 
 foap brought up, for them to wafh, and every one takes out his Handkerchief from 
 under his Safch, or Girdle, to wipe his hands and mouth. Nor muft youexpedjt in 
 Turkey to find Knives and Forks laid on the Table, but every one has his Knife lodg'd 
 in his Safch, and makes ufe of, when occafion requires : but they have no great ufe 
 for them, inafmuch as their Bread, being made thin, as 'twere into Cakes, and eaten 
 in a manner as ioon as 'tis out of the Oven, they break it with their ringers, and ail 
 the meat, which is ferv'd up to them, is cut into fmall pieces, which is alfo the cu- 
 ftome in Perfia. But the Spoons they ufe, in taking their Pottages, and whatever is 
 liquid upon the Table, are much larger than ours and they are wooden ones. The 
 Pages of the K ilar, that is the Cup-bearers Office, bring up the Bread, and "the Sher- 
 bets, and the Pages of the Chamber go and take the Meat, at the Prince's Appart- 
 ment, out of the hands of the Officers belonging to the Kitchin, who bring it in 
 Difhes cover'd with Pourcelain, the Grand Seignor not ufing any Gold Veffels at his 
 own Table. 
 
 After Dinner, the Grand Seignor fays his Noon-Prayer, and fometimes, on Sun- 
 days and Tuefdays, which are the principal Council-days, he comes into the Hall of 
 Audience, to difcourfe with his Minifters of State, concerning his Affairs. On the 
 other days, he walks in the Gardens of the Seraglio, fometimes with his Eunuchs, 
 fometimes with the SuhaneJJes, or with his Dwarfs and Mutes, who (hew a thoufand 
 apifh tricks, to divert him : and fometimes he goes a hunting, or a rifhing, according 
 to his inclination. But neither his Affairs, nor his Recreations, do ever divert him 
 from performing the rive Exercifesof Devotion, at the times appointed by the Alco- 
 ran •, and it is the general Perfwalion of all the Turfy, that it they neglect them, 
 they bring down God's curfe upon themfelves, and that they cannot avoid the ill cou- 
 fequences thereof 
 
 I have faid elfewhere, that Friday is to the Mahumetans, what the Saturday is to the 
 Jews, and the Sunday to the Chrijiians, in regard it was upon the faid day, that Ma- 
 homet took his flight from Mecha i and I have alfo given this further intimation, that 
 the Turks count their Months only by the number of the Moons. There is an anci- 
 ent Cuftome, whereby the Grand Seignor is oblidg'd upon all the firft Fridays of the 
 feveral Moons, to go to the new Mofquey, in regard that S. Sophia is too near the Se- 
 raglio, and befides that there is not, between thofe places, room enough for fb great a 
 Train, as that of the Sultan, the people of Conjiantinople would not have the fatisfa- 
 dtion of feeing him. 
 
 His Devotion is fo great, that he feldom miffes that Ceremony, and when there 
 partes a rirft Friday of the month, without his appearance in it, the people is prefent- 
 ly of opinion, that he is fick, and thereupon turbulent fpirits are mutining their facti- 
 ous defignes. On thofe days do they, who have any complaints to make, of fome 
 injuftice that has been done them, take their opportunity, and plant themfelves in 
 the way, through which he is to pafs, with Petitions in their hands, which upon a 
 iign made by the Sultan, are receiv'd by the Eunuchs. If the injuftice be very great 
 
 The Sultan, 
 
 rehen obligd 
 to go y in Cere- 
 mony, to the 
 Mofquey. 
 
Chap.XVI. Grand Seignors Seraglio. 8i 
 
 a nd the peifon who prefents the Petition be extremely opprefs'd and iujur'd, he holds 
 a lighted Torch over his head, which is ordinarily pradis'd in Turkey, upon the like 
 occaiions, and by that myfterious comportment, intimates to the Prince, That if he 
 does not do him juftice, his Soul (hall burn in the other World, as that Torch does in 
 this. 
 
 Upon the Empcrour's going out of the Seraglio, the principal Sultanejfes, his Mo- 
 ther,his dearcft Confort.or his Sifters,are in a Room over the great Gate of that Palace, 
 with Bags full of Afpers, which they fling among the people, that they may pray, 
 That God would graciouily hearken to the Devotions, which the Grand Seignor is go- 
 ing to perform. His March is atter the fame Order, and with an obfervance of the 
 Pomp, as that of the ancient Greeks Emperours, and I queftion not, but that thoie 
 Authors, who have written of the Ottoman Empire in general, or particularly of the 
 City of Conjiantinople, have made Efficient dcfcriptions of that Ceremony, and there- 
 fore I (hall think my felf difpens'd from the obligation of giving a new one of it. I 
 (hall only fay this of it, That it is very Magnificent, and that there is not any Monarch 
 in the World, who makes fo great an expofal of Gold and precious Stones together, 
 wherewith the Harneffes and Trappings of moft of the Horfes, as well of the Grand ' 
 Sagno)\ as thofe of the Iwjfp's are all cover'd. 
 
 At their return from the Mofquey, the Moufti, on Horfe-back, and at the head of a Thl dieted 
 wretched Crew of GreekjCbrijiians, of the meaneft fort of people ( for there are very ^ r ^*f c " fl ' 
 few Armenians among them) exped the Grand Seignor, at the Gates of the Seraglio, g^Montyl'* 
 and telling his Highnefs, That thofe people were Mis-believers, who had embrae'd the 
 good Law, intreat him to relieve them, and to make fome provifion for their liveli- 
 hood. Upon this exhortation, the Sultan orders twenty or thirty Purfes to be diftri- 
 buted amongft them ■■> nay fometimes his Charity is fo great, as to amount to twen- 
 ty thoufand Crowns, which are receiv'd by the Moufti, and the diftribution thereof 
 is made, as he pleafes. But the greater part of it he converts to his own ufe, and 
 holds an infamous correfpondence with moft of that wretched Crew, who though 
 they often prefent themfelves for that Benevolence, he pretends not to have any know- 
 ledge of at all. By this Impofture, which is fo palpable, and fuits well enough with 
 the followers of Mahomet, does that High Prieft of the Mabumetan Law, put yearly 
 into his Purfe, a conliderable Sum of Money, which is no fmall augmentation to his 
 Revenue. Eut the cafe is the fame with him as with the Bafias : that is, he is not 
 exempted from refunding, and we fhall, by and by produce a very late Example of 
 it. 
 
 And this may ferve for a general account of the ordinary lives of the Ottoman Mo- 
 narchs, while they are within the Seraglio. In their Armies, they have other Em- 
 ployments, efpecially they, who have Military Souls, as there have been fome among 
 them, of whom Hiftories have given us a very noble Character. 
 
 I come now to the prefent ftate of the Ottoman Family, and to the particular incli- The preftas 
 nations of the Grand Seignor, who now Reigns. Mahomet, the Fourth of that Name, ^ ate °f ti}i 
 the Son of Ibrahim, and a Circafiian Lady, was born in the Year 1643. and he is, by F ^™ y an 
 that account, got into the Thirty fourth year of his Age, and the Twenty fourth of his 
 Reign. He has two Brothers, Bajazet, and Orchan, but they are by another Mother, 
 who is ftill living, and is perpetually ftudying how to preferve them. He has alfo a 
 third Brother, named Solyman, who is the fecond of the Sons of Ibrahim, according to 
 the order of their Nativities. But the Mother of the laft mentioned Son is dead ; and 
 thence it comes, that the Souldiery, who conceive greater hopes of that Prince, than of 
 either Bajazet, or Orchan, his Brethren, pity him the more, and have the greater af- 
 fedion for him, upon that very fcore of his having loft the fupport, which he might 
 have expeded from a Mother. 
 
 Ever fince the time of Bajazet the Second, who firft introdue'd that inhumane and 
 cruel Cuftome, of fecuring the Throne of the Sw/tan-Regent, by the death of his Bre- 
 thren, few of thofe unfortunate Princes have efcap'd the Barbarifme of their Elder- 
 Brother, and they, amongft them, who have been treated with fomewhat lefs of inhu- 
 manity, 
 
82 
 
 A Relation of the Chap. XVI. 
 
 An extraordi- 
 nary Example 
 of a Father 
 and Son fuccef- 
 fuely Grand 
 Vizirs. 
 
 The Vwttai- 
 tare »f Maho- 
 met 1 V. the 
 prtftnt Frince. 
 
 manity, have pin'd away their lives, in a ftrict and doleful Iinprifonment, being not 
 permitted to fee any body. This was the Treatment oi Ibrahim, the Father of Maho- 
 met, during the Reign of Amttratb, his Brother, the Son of Acbmet, by Kiofem, a Wo- 
 man of Excellent parts, and well vers'd in the management of Affairs. Mahomet's 
 Brothers are now treated after the fame rate, and the Mother of Bajazet and Orchan, 
 ufes all the endeavours (he can, to fecure to them the affections of the great Officers of 
 the Port, and the Janizaries, who are fomewhat difgufted with the capricious humour, 
 and extraordinary covetoufnefs of Mahomet. This Prince was ad vane' d to the Throne 
 in the Year 1650. after the death of Ibrahim, his Father, who was ftrangled by the 
 Janizaries, in a Sedition. He being then but Seven years of age, the Regency was 
 beftow'd, during his minority, on the Old Sultanefs, Mother to Ibrahim, who foon af- 
 ter abus'd her authority, and rais'd a dangerous Faction againft her Grand-Child, 
 Mahomet, wherein fhe loft her te. 
 
 The prefent Grand Seignor, who is a Perfon much addicted to his Pleafures, and 
 takes a particular diverfion, in Hunting , leaves the management of Affairs to his Grand 
 Vizir, Acbmet, who has fucceeded Coprogli, his own Father, in that principal Charge 
 of the Empire. 'Tis a thing which may well pafs for a Prodigy, amongft the Juries , 
 and fuch as that there has not yet been any example of it feen, as perhaps there will 
 not be any other hereafter. I have thewn, that it is a thing abfolutely contrary to their 
 Politicks -, and therefore, had it wot been for the great and particular obligations, which 
 the Empire had to Coprogli, who, on the other fide,cunningly reprefented to the Grand 
 Seignor, that he never durft truft any but his own Son, with the Secret of Affairs, 
 whereof he only had the Key, this very Acbmet, who, next to the Sultan, is the Prin- 
 cipal Perfon of the Empire, would have been, at prefent, but a limple Bey, or Captain 
 of a Galley. 
 
 The Grand Seignor Mahomet is hand feme enough as to his Perfon,his Stature fome- 
 what exceeding that of the middle fort of perfons » he has not too much corpulency, 
 and his health is in an uncertain ftate. He is very much troubled with a Fall, which 
 he receiv'd, in the violence of his Game, fome years fince, by leaping his Horfe over a 
 broad Ditch: And whereas that pailion is ftill predominant in him, this inconvenience 
 attends it, That, when he is not fomewhat favourable and indulgent to himfelf, in 
 that violent Exercife, he is fometimes taken off his Horfe in a miferable condition, the 
 Remedies which might be apply' d to that indifpolition, taking no effect, by reafbn of 
 the little care he takes to preferve himfelf. He is a perfon of an unconftantand unquiet 
 difpofition, which creates the greater trouble to thofe who wait on him ■■> and though 
 they ftudy his humours, yet is it a hard matter to fatisfie him. He has a Son, who has 
 been circumcis'd with great folemnity._at the age, wherein that Ceremony is to be per- 
 form'd. The Sultanefs, his Mother, a Woman of a Magnificent humour, to augment 
 the Pomp and Splendour of that Action, to the eyes as well of the Turks, as Forrei- 
 ners, would have the Garment, which the Young Prince wore that day, to be all 
 cover'd with Diamonds, and, to that end, cans' d feveral Rich Pieces of the Treafury 
 to be broken > but after the Solemnity, all the Precious Stones were carried back into 
 it again. 
 
 I faid erewhile, that the prefent Sultan-M^owzc* is extreamly addicted to Hunting, 
 and makes it fb much his Darling Divertifement, that he makes lefs account of the 
 lives of Men, than he does of his Dogsi and withal, that he is of a very covetous 
 humour. I ihall, in one fingle Example make a fufficient difcovery of both thofe 
 inclinations in him, and that will alfo further make it appear, how well he was 
 skill'd, in that Knack of exercifing great Liberalities, without any deduction out of 
 his Revenues. 
 
 When the Grand Seignor goes a Hunting, there are Orders fent to a great number 
 of people, for the fpace of four or five Leagues about the place where he intends to 
 Hunt, in order to the furrounding of a certain quantity of Ground, and for the en- 
 clofmg of it fo well, as that nothing can efcape thence. 3 Tis not to be imagin'd, this 
 can be done, without great deftruction to the Country, and much inconvenience to 
 the poor people, who are fore'd to leave their work, to carry on an Exercife which is 
 
 much 
 
Chap.XVl Grand Seignors Seraglio. 85 
 
 much more toilfome then it, in which they many times come off with the loft of 
 Limb, or Life, or fome other difaftrous Accident. Thefe continual impofitions of 
 trouble and toil put many people into the repining humour, infomueh that an Eu- 
 nuch, who was in favour, having, one day, taken the freedom to reprcfent to the 
 Grand Seignor the prejudice his Subjects underwent, by thofe courfes which cceaiioif d 
 the fpoyling of their Grounds, and the lofs of their Lives, he grew very angry, and 
 after fome dayes imprifonment, he gave him a (rumeful ejection out of the Sera- 
 glio. 
 
 But, in procefs of time, the mifchievous Inconveniences occafionM by this infa- 
 tiable purfuance of his Pleafurcs in Hunting, increafing more and more, the Grand 
 Vizir, and die other B.tjfas, refolv'd to intreat the MouftL to make a Remonftrance to 
 him, of the ill confequence thereof, he being the only perfon, who might prcfume to 
 fpeak any more of it to the Grand Seignor. The Moufti would by no means hearken 
 to it at firft, imagining, as he might well, that his harangue would not be pleafing to 
 the Sultan : But, at lalt, being over-perfwaded to do that good office to the Pub- 
 lick, he took courage, and his opportunity, to fpeak to him, with all the infinuatjon 
 he could. 
 
 He could not bethink himfeU of a better Expedient, to remove that predominant fbt ancient 
 pillion opt of his mind, then to rcprefent to him, the Cultome of his PredccefTors, cuftomt of the 
 who took their divcrfion in fome handy-work, when the VVarr, or the Concerns of £ ?w 
 State gave them any rcmillion : That, according to their Example, their Subjects ^ f/, M y h^dy. 
 apply'd thcmfelves to things that were beneficial, and made all Arts and Profellions reor^. 
 to flourilh in the Empire,to the great advantage of the Publick : That Suhm-Amuratb, 
 his Uncle, delighted in making thofe Horn-Rings, which are us"d in (hooting with the 
 Long-Bowe : That Ibrahim, his Father, was an Excellent Artilt, in the making of 
 Tooth-picks, and other fmall Inftruments of Tortoiie-fhell : And that it w T ere requi- 
 fite that fo Laudable a Cuftome Ihould not be lolt, fmce it gave the people occafion to 
 do the like, and fo to avoid idlenefs# 
 
 He further Remonftrated to his Highnefs, That it was much more, commendable iii 
 the fight of men, and more acceptable to God, for him to live by the labour of his 
 hands, then by the fweat of the people, and the Mony arifing by Impofitions, which 
 were forbidden by the Law : and that what was allotted for the peculiar Diet of his 
 PredecelTbrs, was the product of their own handy-work : That true it was indeed, 
 they were not oblig'd to any alfiduity in the Employments they had fancied, but that 
 what they did was as much for their own diverlion, as to fatisfie the Precept of the 
 Law s and when they had finith'd fome piece of Work, they fent it to fome Bajfa, for 
 whom they had a particular kindnefs,and he receiv'd it with extraordinary refpect, and 
 abundance of 'joy : That he, who was the Bearer of it, when he came to prcfent it, 
 {aid, That Piece of Work, was made by the Grand Seignor himfelf, who had lent 
 him to fell it, in order to his own fuftenance: And that the Bafla, or other perfon, to 
 whom it was directed, to exprefs how highly he was pleas 'd therewith, gave him a 
 certain number of Purfes for it » not accounting the Prefent which was to be made to 
 the Bearer : That what Mony came in that way, was defign'd to bear the Charges of 
 the Prince's own Table, and by that means,he could not be charg'd with living by the 
 labour of his Subjects. 
 
 To this effect was the Mouftfs harangue \ and I (hail tell you by the way, That the 
 Kings o(Perfia have the fame Cultome, or rather, the fame Superftition. In the Reign 
 of Sbach-AbjSy there were built, at Ilpaban, certain places called Caravanferas, which" 
 are publick houfes, where the Merchants are lodg'd, the Rents whereof are let afide 
 for the maintenance of the King's own Table s me Mony which is rais'd by the Cu- 
 fioms, and other Impofitions, being accounted, as to that fcore, for Haram, that is to 
 fay, for unjuft and forbidden, and referv'd to be employ'd in the Exigencies of State, 
 and not for the Suftenance of the Prince. 
 
 The Grand Seignor dilftmbling and fmothering the vexation,into which the Moufti & "* H 
 Remonftrance had put him, pretended to take his Advertifements very kindly, and JJJJy 
 
 C M ; difpos'd Mwufti, 
 
84 A Relation of the Chap.X VI. 
 
 difpos'd himfelf tofatisfie him, in a (hort time, how well he could make his advantage 
 of the Lecture he had read him. He acknowlcdg , d,that he had often thought of what 
 he had reprefented to him, and that he had a way of livelihood in his head, which he 
 hop'd would take very well. Some daies pafs'd away, ere the Grand Seignor made 
 the leaft mention of Hunting \ but at laft, he grows impatient, he leaves the Seraglio, 
 and had the good fortune to kill a Hare with a Gun, the fifft he had ever deftroy'd 
 that way. He immediately fends it to the Moufti, with order to tell him, That he has 
 follow'd his advice, and that having learnt the Pxofeffion of a Huntfilian, he lias com- 
 manded that firft piece of his Game mould be brought to him, which he was willing 
 to fell, that he might fubfift by the Mony it mould produce : That he fail not to give 
 Twenty Purfes to him who brings it and that as to his own Pcrfon, he knew well 
 enough what he ought to fend him. 
 
 The Moufti conceal'd his furprizal as well as he could , and receivM the Here- 
 with great teftimonies of his refentments and joy, of the honour, which his Highncis 
 had done him => and having beftow'd, according to his own order, Twenty Purfes up- 
 on the Bearer of the Hare, fends Sixty more to the Grand Seignor himfelf", learning, 
 at his own colt, and that to the value of Fourfcore thoufand Crowns, that men mould 
 not be over-forward to give their Sovereigns thole advertifements, which they defire 
 not of them. 
 
 To finilli the Pourtraiture of Sultan-MJ.w»zrt, he is further chargeable with a de- 
 fect of conftancy, in his humour, and a roughnefs of deportment towards his people, 
 who are thereupon apt to have the lefs affection for him. And whereas he is indefa- 
 tigable in his Hunting-Exercifes, and fpends whole daies therein, even in the fevereft 
 part of the Winter-Seafon, it happen'd, one day, as he was returning home, from the 
 Sport of running down a Stag,that his Grand Falconer took the boldnefs toreprefent to 
 him the inconvenience of expofing his Slaves fo much In the Ice and Snow, by which 
 means there had dy'd about Thirty of them the Night before, and the reft were in a 
 fair way to follow them. The Prince, not rnov'd at all with that Remonftrance,made 
 this Reply to the grand Falconer, That, if the Weather prov'd very hard, they (hould 
 have a care of his Dogs, and allow them cloathing, and other accommodations, left 
 the rigour of the Sealon might take off any one of them •> making not the leaft men- 
 tion of, or provilion for the men, whom he facrihe'd to his Divertifement. That 
 rough repartee having been fpread among the people, has begot filch animofity in them 
 againft this Prince, that there's no queftion made of his being feniible thereof, and that 
 it is, in fome meafure, the caufe of his keeping fo much at a diftance, from the Metro- 
 polis of his Empire, where he does not think himfelf fecure. 
 
 CHAP, 
 
 2 lie 
 
i , , , . .. i 111 ii 4 
 
 Chap.XVII. Grand Seignor's Seraglio. 85 
 
 CHAP. XVII; 
 Of the Womens Appartment. 
 
 The Principal He ADS. 
 
 TJ?e impofiibility of having a full knowledge of the Womens apart- 
 ment, in the Seraglio. The Commerce between the Jewefles and 
 the Sukanefles. The doleful Story of Two Famous Wrefllers. 
 The great Severity of the vS«/ta?*-Amurath. How to diftinguijh 
 between Tbhat is true, and Tfrhat fabulous, in reference to the Sul- 
 tanefles. A ftrange Story of an old Woman. Polygamy pre- 
 judicial to the propagation of Children. The great Secrecy of the 
 Grand Seknor's Amours. 
 
 I Make a Chapter by it (elf of the Appartment of the Women, only to entertain fhi impo/filM* 
 the Reader, with the impoifibility there is, of having a perfect knowledg of it, ty of having art 
 or getting any exadr account, either what the accommodations of it are i or how txa ^- a ^ount 
 the Perfons, who are confin'd therein, behave themfelves. There is not in all Jlmmnt* 
 Chriftendome any Monaftery of Religious Virgins, how regular and auftere fo- 1 
 ever it may be, the entrance whereof is more ftridHy forbidden to men, than is that of 
 this Appartment of the Women : inlomuch that my white Eunuch, who has fupply'd 
 me with io particular a defcription of the inner part of the Seraglio, could give me no 
 certain information of this Quarter of it, where the Women are lodg'd. All I could 
 get out of him, was, That the Doors of it are kept by Negro-Eunuchs, and that, beiides 
 the Grand Seignor himfelf, and fometimes, the Phylician, in cafe of great neccflity, 
 there never enters any man into it, no nor Woman, beiides thole who live in it, and 
 they are never permitted to go out of it, unlefs it be in order to their confinement in 
 the Old Seraglio. But we mult except, out of that number, the Sultaneljes, and their 
 Maids, or Ladies of Honour, whom the Grand Seignor allows, when he plealcs, to 
 come into the Gardens of the Seraglio, and whom he fometimes takes abroad with 
 him, into the Country -, yet fo as that they cannot be feen by any perfon whatfoever. 
 Four Negro-Eunuchs carry a kind of Pavilion, under which is the Sultanefs, and the 
 Horfe upon which me is mounted, all fave only the head of the horfe, which is feen 
 on the out-fide of the Pavilion, the two fore-pieces of which, taking him about the 
 Neck, are clofe faften'd, above, and below. 
 
 And as to the Phyfician, he is never admitted, as I faid, but in cafe of extream ne- 
 ceffity, into the Appartment of the Women, and with fuch precautions, that he can 
 neither fee the perfon who is indifpos'd, nor be feen by her, but to feel her Pulfe 
 through a piece of Lawn, all the other Women having retir'd from her Bed-fide, and 
 the Negro-Eunuchs having taken their places. Thus you fee what precautions they ufe, 
 to deprive the Women, of the Seraglio, of all means of having any accefs to Men,or in- 
 deed fo much as a light of them : And if it happen that feme Jcwefs has entrance into 
 their Quarter, to Trade with them, and to fell them fome little Rarities, they an? 
 ftridly fearch'd by the Negro-Eunuchs, left there (hould happen to thrult in fome Man 4 
 difguis'd in Woman's Cloaths, in which cafe immediate death would enfue. And 
 when the Curiofity of fome Chrijtian Ladies has inclin'd them to fee the Suhaneffes, 
 they feldome efcap'd without the receiving of fome affront i and I could produce fome. 
 examples of it, did I think it convenient. 
 
 ( M 2 ) U 
 
86 A Relation of the Chap.XVII. 
 
 Ike commerce It might be imagin'd, that, by the relation of the Jm>ejJ'es> it were poffible to have 
 between the f ome account, of the embellifhments of the Halls and Chambers of the Appartment of 
 3* w f ft" an * t ^ e g 0vernm ent of that Female Republick. But it is to be noted, That thefe Je&eJJ'es 
 t e u tane cs. ^ ^ permitted to go far into it j for there is a Chamber appointed for the manage- 
 ment of their Traffick, and the Negro-Eunuchs are the Brokers between them, and the 
 Sultanejfes. They take cognisance of all, and what the PrincefTes have a mind to buy, 
 palling through their hands, they make them pay double and treble what the things 
 are worth, and fo heap up Wealth, though they have but little occafion or opportu- 
 nity to make ufe of it. 
 
 the doleful Sto- ^ ut * ^° not ex P e( ^> an y one ^ ou ^ wonder at that great exadtnefs, of not permit- 
 r/oftTo Fa- i"g an Y man > n0 not even a White Eunuch, to approach the Appartment of the Wo- 
 mous nreftlers. men, after an Accident, which happen'd at Adrianople^ in the Year of our Lord 
 M. DC. XXXIX. and which 1 fhall here infert in few words. Amttrath^x his return, 
 after the taking of Bagdct, came and made his abode, for fome time, at Adrianople. He 
 had a Page, belonging to the Treafury, who was a Native of Tocat, in Natolia, and, 
 from the place of his birth, they gave him the name oiTocateli. He was a well-fet 
 Young man, robuft, skilful in Wreftling, and, upon that accountj the Grand Seignor 
 had made Chief of the Wreftlers. 
 
 It happen'd, that one of the moft Famous, for that Exercife, came about that time 
 to Adrianopky out of the Confines of Mufcovy, and in all the Cities, through which 
 he travell'd, he had alwaies been too hard for thofe who had preferited themfelves to 
 Wreftle with him. His Reputation was fpread all over the Empire, where he had not 
 met with any Wreftler, who acknowledg'd not himfelf inferiour to him => Which Re- 
 port coming to the Page of the Treafury, he conceiv'd fo great an emulation at the 
 Fame of that Man, whom all the World fo highly celebrated, that he fent one of the 
 Halvagis, to carry him a Civil Challenge from him, and to acquaint him, That he was 
 dHirous to have a Tryal of Skill with him, in the Grand Seignor's Prefence. He fent 
 him word withal, That, before his Highnefs had any notice of it, 'twere convenient, 
 they made lbme tryal of their ftrength ; And that no body might know any thing of 
 it, he would lend him a Bofiangis Garment and Cap, by which means he might come 
 into the Seraglio. 
 
 When the Grand Seignor is not within the Seraglio, where ever it be, the Boflangti 
 are permitted to come into, and to go out of it, by the Garden-Gate ■■> and there be- 
 ing a great number of them, it is no hard matter to get a man in under their accou- 
 trements. By this contrivance did the Mufcovian Wreftler get into the Seraglio, the 
 next day, upon the follicitation of the Page, who fent him what was requiiite ■■, the 
 Grand Seignor being, that day, gone a Hunting. They both put on Drawers of Lea- 
 ther, well liquor 'd with fome fat or oyly fluff, all the reft of the body being ftark na- 
 ked, and liquor'd in like manner : and after a long difpute, the Page had the better, 
 whether he got it fairly by his own ftrength, and skill, or that the other yielded the 
 victory, out of complaifance. 
 
 This Action pafs'd in the midft of the place which is before the Garden, in the pre- 
 fence of the Mutes, and all the Pages of the Seraglio •, and the Grand Seignor being re- 
 turn'd from Hunting, the Superintendent of the Treafury told him, That there was 
 come into the City, a ?ehlivan y a Muscovite by Country, robuft, and of a good meen, 
 of great ftrength, and well experienced in Wreftling, and that if his Highnefs pleas'd, 
 he (hould have the fatisfa&ion to fee him engag'd in that Exercife. The Grand Seig- 
 nor commanded he (hould be brought into the Seraglio, the next day, and that Torca- 
 teli (hould have notice, to be ready to entertain him. f 
 
 Being both come to the place, and in a condition ready to clofe, the Grand Seignor 
 came into a Gallery, attended by all the Grandees of the Seraglio, to be Spectators of 
 that Tryal of Skill in Wreftling. The Victory having ftood as 'twere in the ballance 
 a good while, and all the Spectators, being fomewhat impatient, to fee which fide it 
 Would turn to, a Mute exprefs'd himfel( by figns, to one of his Companions, to this 
 
 effecjg 
 
Chap.XVII. Grand Seignors Seraglio. 87 
 
 eflfdft, That he wondred the Page, who (hould have deriv'd new (trength and courage, 
 from the Grand Seignor's prefence, found it (b difficult to get the better of the Mufco- 
 vite^ whom he had lb eafily worked the day before. 
 
 The language of the Mutes, by figns, is as intelligible in the Seraglio, as if they had 
 the liberty of (peaking, and the Grand Seignor, who underllands it as well as any of 
 them, as having been accuftom'd thereto from his Infancy, and commonly difcourfing 
 with them, was ftrangely furpriz'd, to underftand that the Mufcovite had been, the day 
 before, in the fame place. His indignation immediately fluih'd into his face i he com- 
 manded the Wrclilers to give over their Exercife, and, calling the Page to him, he 
 ask'd him, How he had contriv'd that man's entrance into the Seraglio. The unfor- 
 tunate Tocatrfi, who could not deny a thing, which fo many others were ready to 
 teftirie, acquainted his Highnefs with what had pafs'd > whereupon, the Sultan^ in- 
 cens'd at the greatnefs of his confidence, prevented his making an end of the Story, 
 by commanding the Boftangi-bacbi to be prefently fent for, whom he order'd to (eize 
 on the Mufcovian Wreiller, and fee him receive Five hundred blowes on the foles of 
 the Feet, with a Wand or Cudgel which no doubt was enough to make him un- 
 capable of exercifing himfelf, for a good while after. The Overfeer had Orders, to 
 fte the fame punilhment inflicted upon the Page Tocateli ; which was immediately 
 put in execution : the Grand Seignor having, in the mean time, retired into the Ap- 
 partment of the Women. 
 
 Tt was the Opinion of mod about the Seraglio, that thofe two unfortunate wretches 
 would have efcap'd, with the punilhment of Five hundred blowes, each of them, upon 
 the foles of their feet. But the Grand Seignor, who was refolv'd to have their lives, 
 and had retir'd, purpofely, into the Lodgings of the Women, to prevent all mediation 
 for their pardon, fent away prefently a fecond Order, to the Bojtangi-Bachi, whereby 
 he was commanded to fee the Page hang'd up, in the Evening, on a Tree, which is at 
 the Corner of the place, where they had Wreltled, and the Mufcovite on another Tree, 
 which is without the Gate of the Seraglio. 
 
 Some would be apt to think, that thefe two Executions were enough to appeafe the Amurath's 
 Prince's indignation : But it prov'd otherwife. The next morning, the Sultan-.<4>KK- * mt Stvtritj; 
 rath fent for the Cap-Aga, the chiefefc amongft the Eunuchs, and the Grand Mafter 
 and Comptroller, of the Seraglio, and commanded, That the Gellad y who is the com- 
 mon Executioner, (hould alfo give his attendance. Upon the parting of thefe Orders, 
 all thofe, that were prefent, caft themfelves at his Highnefle's feet, befeeching him to 
 contider, That the Cqfi-Aga was innocent, that he had not the leali notice of the con- 
 fidence of the Page, and that, if it had come to his knowledge, he would have feverely 
 punifli'd it. The Grand Seignor continuing ftill extreamly incens'd, could not be 
 appeas'd by all the intreaties and fubmiflions they made to him, and would have the 
 Capi-Aga } as Grand Mafter of the Seraglio, to be anfwerable for all thofe that come 
 into it i when, for the good fortune of that principal Officer of the Sultan's Palace, 
 there came in the Moufti, and the SeUgdar, or Chief of the Pages of the Chamber,who 
 with much ado made a fhift to beg his pardon. Yet was not that granted but in part 5 
 for all they could obtain, extended only to the faving of his life \ and fb the Grand 
 Seignor order'd him to be immediately thruft out of the Seraglio, with a charge never 
 to enter again into it, while he liv'd i and inftead of the Dignity of Baffa> whereto he 
 (hould have been advane'd, to be redue'd to a fmall Penfion of Three hundred Afters 
 a day. 
 
 1 thought it pertinent to my defign, to bring in this Story of the Two Wreftlers, in 
 order to the greater confirmation of what I have affirm'd at the beginning of this 
 Chapter, coricerning the impoflibility there is, for any perfon whatfoever, Man, or 
 Woman, to get into the Appartment of the Sultaneff'es, when they punilfi, with fo 
 much feverity, a Stranger, who, without exprefs order, prefumes but to fet his foot 
 within any Court of the Seraglio. 
 
88 A Relation of the Chap.XVIL 
 
 He* to dijt/'!- Take it then for granted, that this is all that can be known, with certainty, of the 
 guijh what's Appartment of the Women, who aie fubfervient to the pleafures of the Ottoman Mo- 
 (Sw^I narchsi whatever is fcatte'r'd abroad, beyond this account thereof, being grounded 
 tkeSt&uas&n. only upon imaginations and conje&ures, which haply are at a great diflance from the 
 truth. Certain it is, that this Quarter of the Seraglio, as to fome part of it, has a fair 
 Profped upon that of the Grand Seignor, and that the Doors of it are keptnight and 
 day, by a certain number ot Negro-Eunuchs , the molt deformed, and the moll dread- 
 ful to look upon, that can be found. It is certain alfo, that it is well furnilh'd with 
 abundance of moll beautiful Women, of feveral Countries, who, by the chance of War, 
 or othcrwifc, are fallen into the hands of the Bajfa's, and Governours of Provinces, 
 who fend them up, as Prefents, to the Grand Seignor. It is known alfo, That,of that 
 variety of Women, the Prince does not appropriate to himfelf above two or three 
 whom he has the greatcic affedfion for •, nay fome of thofe Princes have conHn'd 
 themfelves to the embraces of one only, after intermarriage. And this is aftirm'd, at 
 Conjianthuple, of Solyman the Great, after he had plighted his faith to Roxul ana, con- 
 trary to the ordinary Policy of the Turks, after the affront, done by Temitr-leng, to the 
 Wife of Bajazet. The white Eunuchs, who wait in the Grand Sei gnor's Lodgings, 
 are able, in fome meafure, to give an account of thefe things, in regard that the 
 Woman, who is to participate of the Grand Seignor's Bed, is conducted into his 
 own Chamber \ and, if it be a new Amour, the noife of it is fpread, the next day, all 
 ever the Seraglio. 
 
 It is alfo known, That the firft of thofe Women, who is deliver'd of a Male-child, 
 and, by that means, becomes Mother to the prefumptive Heir of the Ottoman-Empire, 
 is conlidcr'd as the principal Sultancfs, and treated according to her dignity : and the 
 others, who afterwards have Sons or Daughters, have alfo the quality and denomina- 
 tion of SultaneJJ'es but the number of the Women, who are to wait on them, is 
 much inferiour, to that of thofe, who are to attend the principal Sttltanefs. It is 
 • known, in fine, That thofe young Princes are brought up under the tutelage of their 
 Mothers, till they are fo many years of age > and when they are ftrong enough to be 
 put upon certain Exercifes, they have Governours and Malkrs appointed over them, 
 in a diftincl: Quarter by themfelves. 
 
 Befides thefe things, which may be pofitively known, concerning the Appartment 
 of the Women, in the Seraglio, it may well be imagin'd, that the embellilhments of 
 their Lodgings are anfwerable to thefe of the Grand Seignor, lince it is the place, 
 where he paifes away the moll divertive part of his time. It is alfo not to be que- 
 fiion'd, but that it has its Infirmary, its Baths, and the other accommodations, and 
 conveniences, that can be wilh'd for. It may alfo be conjeclur'd, That there is,in 
 this Quarter, an obfervance of the fame regulations, as there are in the Chambers of 
 the Icboglans : That fome of the more ancient Maids are Miitreffcs over the Younger 
 ones, and arc, night and day employ'd in oblerving their aclions ; and that their un- 
 voluntary reltraint forces them to the fame unfeemly aclions amongft themfelves, as 
 the brutilh Palfions of thofe Young Men engages them in, whenever they can find the 
 opportunities to commit them. And this prefumption has no doubt given occalion to 
 the Fabulous Story, which is related of their being ferv'd up with Cucumbers cut into 
 pieces, and not entire, out of a ridiculous tear lelt they mould put them to undecent 
 ufes : they who have forg'd the Story not knowing, that it is the cuflome in the Le- 
 vant, to cut the Fruit a-crofs, into great thick flices, as I (hall make it appear in the 
 Chapter, where I treat of their Gardens. Eutit is not only in the Seraglio,that that 
 abominable Vice reigns, but it is predominant alfo in the City of Conjlantinople, and 
 in all the Provinces of the Empire, and the wicked Example of the Men, who, flight- 
 ing the natural ufe of Woman-kind, are mutually curiam' d with a deteltable love foe 
 one another, unfortunately enclines the Women to imitate them. 
 
 A ftnngtStQ' Of this, there was a ftrange inftanceln the time of Solyman the Magnificent. An 
 ryof an old old Woman was guilty of fuch an excefs of extravagance,as to put on Man's Cloaths, 
 mman. an j to gj ve out> t j lat fh e had bought a Cbiaouxs place, the better to compafs her de- 
 
 figne, of obtaining the only Daughter of a Trades-man of Con}hntino^k i with whom 
 
Chap. XVlll. Grand Seignor's Seraglio. 89 
 
 flie was defperately fallen in love, having made fruitlefs attempts, by other ways, to 
 fatisfie her infamous inclinations. The Father, not fufpe&ing any thing of her wic- 
 ked intentions, and being withal poor, grants her his Daughter, the Marriage is fo- 
 lcmniz'd in the prefence of the Cadi\ and the impolture having been difcover'd the ve- 
 ry Wedding-night.the old woman was condemn'dthe next day to be thrown into the 
 Sea, there to quench the Gomorrlkan Inflammations of her lewd delires. This Story 
 is to this day related in ConftantTnofle^ and I have had it from feveral good hands. 
 
 Thefc infatiable falacioufnefs amonglt the Women, are the effects and confequences Polygamy pre* 
 of the lame inclinations in the Men and the Turks are fo much the more execrable i udi " al f°, 
 and abominable as to this particular, the more they are permitted a plurality of Wives. t )0 ^ atl0K ' 
 But, whether it happens through a juft punilhment from Heaven, or proceed from their 
 Sorceries, which are common and allow'd in 1itrkgy\ and ordinarily practis'd by the 
 Women, in oppoiition one to another, to appropriate the affections of their Husbands, 
 it has always been obferv'd, That the Turks who keep many Women, are not lb well 
 ltor'd with Children, as they, who obferve Conjugal Chaltity, and confine themfelves 
 to one. I queftion not but thofe Authors, who have written of the Mabumetan Re- 
 ligion, have given a fufficient account of that plurality of Wives, and of the Cere- 
 monies of Matrimony, amonglt the lurks. 
 
 As to the manner, how the Grand Seignor demeans himfelf in the profecution of The Secrecy of 
 his Amours, it is a Secret, which I mall not enquire into i I have not much endeavoured the Grxa£ 
 to make any difcoveries of it, and it is a hard matter to give any account thereof, % 
 without fome hazard of travelling Hijiory into Romance. They are Intrigues, which 
 do not admit of any Confident, by whom they may be difclos'd, and all that is com- 
 monly related thereof, is haply at a great diftance from the true ftate of things : not to 
 prefs this, That we ought to have a refpeel: for all Princes, and to forbear divulging 
 what informations we may poffibly have receiv'd, of their fecret Amours. 
 
 CHAP. XVHL 
 
 The Entrance into Confiantinople of the Sultanefs y Mother td 
 the Grand Seignor, whom they honour with the Title of 
 la Validk, on the Second of July. 1 668. 
 
 I ; •' 
 
 The Principal Heads. 
 
 Tk order of the JMarch. The Wealth of the Grand Seignor's Fa- 
 vourite. The Sultanefle's Coaches, The prohibitions to look 
 
 i i ' il Aur "A ^ aib :>:ni. .» ;;:,<» iot£ \n m v\ bnt- ; irarn no ?t\u) le^g 
 
 on her. 
 
 o 
 
 N the Second of July, in the Year of dur Lord, One Thoufand, fix Hun- 
 dred, Sixty and Eight, the Sultanefs, Mother to the Grand Seignor Re- 
 gent, at her return from Adrianople> made her Entrance into Conftanti- 
 nople, where I then was, of which Entrance take the eufuing Defcription. 
 
 About Six in the Morning, fome numbers of Janizaries^ notobferving any order, rte Order cf tht 
 took their way towards the Seraglio, fometimes ten, or more, fometimes twenty, in March. 
 little detachments, which lafted for fome time. 
 
 1 
 
 After them came two hundred men on Horfe-back, belonging to the Houfe of the 
 Cologlou, that is to fay, the Grand Seignor's Favourite, with lhort Guns refting on 
 the Bowe of their Saddles, and all very meanly clad, as alfo the Officers of his Kit- 
 chin,who coming in the Rear of the others,were, in like manner, poorly habited;, and 
 
 Ul 
 
A Relation of the Chap.XViiL 
 
 ill mounted* After them appear'd in fomcwhat a better order, the menia! Retinue of 
 the Caimacati, his Officers, as well thofe belonging to the Chamber, as thofe of the 
 Stables, were very handfomely mounted, and all in their yellow Garments. 
 
 The next appearance was that of the Spates, who are the ^///f.zw/f-Mothei's Lifr- 
 Guard. Of thofe there were four hundred, which made ahandfome Shew, being ail 
 well mounted, and well dad. They had all their Coats of Mail, with their Veiis of 
 red Taffeta, and had on the right fide a Quiver of Crimfon- Velvet, embroider d with 
 Flowers of Gold i and on the left, a Bowe in a cover of red Velvet, ernbroider'd as 
 the other. They had all of them Helmets on their Heads, and over them white Tur- 
 bants, and from the Helmets there hung fmall Chains of Mail, refembling Locks of 
 Hair, which they u(e whenoccafion requires, to ward off a blow from the neck and 
 face. Every one of them had alfo a Launce in his hand, and the Trappings of their 
 Horfes were of one of thefe three Colours, yellow, violet, and red, of a rich Stuff, 
 with an embroidery of Silver. 
 
 The Spabi-Bacbi came in the Rear of them, having a Plume of Heron-tops in his 
 Turbant, three foot in height, which made him remarkable, and ditfinguillfd him 
 from all the other Spah'u. On the Breaft-piece of his Horfe, were faften'd a dozen 
 little Scarffs, which hung down negligently, and he was attended by fix Pages, who 
 had Caps on, after the Slavonian Mode, red Vefts tuck'd up about the walk, and yel- 
 low Hofe, or Drawers. 
 
 After the SpabU, there pafs'd feveral Janizaries, but not marching in any order, fbt- 
 low'd by two hundred men on Horfe-back, and in the Rear of them, came the Jani- 
 zary-Aga, a Perfon of a very goodly prefence. He had for his immediate Attendants 
 fix gentile young Perfons, who had each of them, hanging over his (houlder, a kind 
 of Quiver, full of fmall Wands, which are a fort of Arrows, without any Iron- 
 work at the ends. 
 
 After the forementioned, there came up twelve men, who are as it were the Ma- 
 tters of the Ceremonies, in very ridiculous Accoutrements. They had Silver Wands 
 refting on their Shoulders, their Veftments were garnith'd with fmall Bells, and they 
 had Cap's on, which had fomewhat hanging down of each fide, refembling AiTes 
 Ears. 
 
 The next appearance after that extravagant Party, was that of an hundred Capigis y , 
 all well mounted, every one with a Launce in his hand, with a Flag faften'd thereto, 
 reaching from the top to the bottom, which made a very noble Shew. In the Rear of 
 the Troop came the Capigi-bacbi, diftinguilh'd from the reft by a high and large Plume 
 of Heron-tops , which added much to the gracefulnefs of his looks, and Per- 
 fon. 
 
 9° 
 
 After them, came a hundred Cbiaoux's, well clad, and well mounted, having their 
 great Caps on their Heads => and in the Rear of them came the Caimacan, having a 
 Cap of the fame faftiion, attended by twenty Pages, very neatly clad. 
 
 The next appearance was that of five or fix hundred Boftangis, with their Caps 
 like Sugar-loaves, their Habits of a red linnen Cloath, and Muskets on their Shoul- 
 ders. The Bojlangi-bacbi came after them, fumptuoully clad, and mounted, with a 
 CbiaoHx-Qz^ upon his head, and a great number of people about him. 
 
 There appear'd next, two hundred Cadis, making a moil noble Shew, all modeft- 
 ly clad, with their Bufquins of black S^z«//&-Leather, and white Turbants, like great 
 Balls of Wooli,or Silk. 
 
 They were follow'd by the Scberifs, who affirm themfclves to be of the kindred of 
 Mabomet, and made up a Troop of fixty Perfons. As they were the Relations of the 
 Prophet, they wore green Turban ts of an extraordinary bignefs. 
 
 fcffG Jbiidwi vltcoq/x-nfufl wltf ai c ji3vr { ?wfIx>Sfb-"iJ tv>H sdtri i^amjkW^ 
 
 Atter 
 
Chap. XV III. Grand Seignor's Seraglio. 
 
 9» 
 
 After the Scberifs, came the two principal Officers of the Mbufti (for he never ap- 
 pears in perfon in thefe forts of Ceremonies.) and they were clad in white, having a 
 very demure and religious Countenance. 
 
 The Cologlotty or Grand Seignor's Favourite, appear'd next mounted on a gallant Tki wulth »j 
 Horfe, whofe Harnefs and Trappings were of the richeft. The Stirrups were of Gold, the fwokrittk 
 and the Houffe was embellifh'd with an embroydery of Gold and Pearls. His Veft 
 was cf a red Brokado, and his Cap like thofe of the Cbiaouxes. Two men held the 
 reins of his Bridle, and his Horfe curvetted all along, as if he had been fenfible of the 
 goodly prefence cf his Mailer, and how well it became him. He was a perfon of a 
 good ftature, and of a graceful countenance, having withal a mild and fprightly look, 
 and everyone faluted him, as he advane'd ft ill towards the Seraglio. The Servants 
 belonging to his Stables marched after him, and fifty Grooms led each of them a 
 Horfe in his hand , and thofe horfes .were all high-priz'd, and their HamefTes as 
 fumptuous as could be made. 'Tis commonly reported, That this Favourite, who is 
 a perfon of very great merit, hath acquir'd vaft Riches, and that his Train, whether 
 as to the number of Servants, or as to that of Horfes, furpaffes that of many great 
 Princes. 
 
 There came up next a fmall Troop of Negro-Eunuchs, marching confufedly, before rfu SultancflTw 
 the Coaches of the Sultanefs, Mother to the prefent Grand Seignor, all well mounted, cotchts. 
 and Magnificently clad, in different colours, 
 
 There appear'd afterwards Six Capigis, about the firft Coach,drawn by fix Excellent 
 Horfes. They had each of them a Launce in his hand •> and, in the Rear of them,there 
 appear'd a Horfe-tail-Banner, of a pale-red colour, whereby it was known, that fbme 
 Sofia's were coming up, as indeed there were, and they were a Convoy to the fecond 
 Coach, drawn by fix white horfes, in which was the ^K/f^e/x-Mother, and another 
 Sultanefs. Two Black Eunuchs march'd on each fide of it, the Boots, or Doors being 
 latie'd, that the PrincefTes might fee, and not be feen. Which hindred not, however, 
 but that, as the Coach of the Sultanefs came forwards, fome were ftill crying out to 
 the people, and commanding them to look the other way •■> which Command it con- 
 cerns them exactly to obey, and that efpecially in Perfia, where they muft get away as 
 far as they can, to avoid the hazard of receiving a good blow with a Sable. 
 
 After the aforefaid Coach, there pafs'd by Twelve other Coaches with four horfes 
 apiece, wherein were the Female-Slaves belonging to the Sultaxefies^wtm^ two Negro- 
 Emuchs, at the Doors of each Coach, which were latie'd, as the former : After which 
 there follow'd feveral Litters, and four great Waggons, full of Snow, for the ufe of 
 the Sultanejfes, and their Retinue. 
 
 , All this Cavalcade, eonfifting of between five and fix thoufand men, took up almoft 
 three hours in its paflage,and having made its Proceffion through Conftaminople, lodg'd 
 it felf in the Seraglio, according to the defcription I have given you of it. 
 
 Of the French Nation, there were feveral Perfbns of Quality, who had the Curiofity 
 to fee that Entrance ■■> and among others, Monfieur Ribier, de Ville-neuve, a Counfellor 
 of the Paflement of Paris ■■> Monfieur Le Mairat, a Counfellor of the Grand Council i 
 The Abbot diChamphuon, de la Saulfaye, all Parisians \ and Monfieur Atibert, a Native 
 of Nav-France, and, by Extraction, a Norman, Son to the Governour of Guarda- 
 
 V.'O \ ': 
 
 (N) 
 
 CHAP, 
 
9 2 
 
 A Relation of the Chap. XIX. 
 
 CHAP. XIX. 
 Of the Gardens of the Seraglio. 
 
 The Principal He ADS. 
 
 The Revenues of the Gardens employ' d for the Grand Seignor' s Table. 
 Cucumbers, a fruit of much delicacy amongst the Levantines, 
 and how they eat them. A noble Pyramid, refembling Trajan's 
 Pillar. Fountains. The number of the Gardiners. 
 
 IT is an ancient Cuftome, or rather, a Law, eftablifh'd by the Ottoman Princes, 
 that the profits made out of their Gardens, (hould be contributary to the keep- 
 ing of their own Tables, and they have feveral of them, in the Neighbourhood 
 of Conftantinople, as well on the European fide, as the Afian, all along the Sea- 
 fhore. But I fhall give an account, only of the Gardens of the Seraglio, that fo 
 I may not exceed the limits I have prefcrib'd to my felf in this Relation. 
 
 There are in the Seraglio feveral Gardens, wherein there are only Flowers, in di- 
 vers Appartments, and particularly in that of the Grand Seignor, and, no queftion,but 
 the fame thing may be faid of the Quarter of the SultaneJJes. Yet is there not any 
 thing extraordinary, which might oblige me to give this defcription thereof. The 
 great Garden, whereof the Boftangi-bdchi has the overfight, as he has alfo of all the 
 others belonging to the Grand Seignor, takes up the greateft part of the Seraglio, and 
 confifts of a great number of Walks, planted,' of each fide, with Cyprefs. Thofe 
 Walks are much neglected, fo that in feveral places, they are not clear'd of Bryars and 
 Thorns. When it is known, that the Grand Seignor is to come and take his diver- 
 tifement there, a great number of Bojiangis are immediately commanded out, to make 
 clean the Walks, which he ufes to frequent, and the fpaces. between thole Walks are 
 fo many Kitchin-Gardens, or Orchards, which are very well furnifh'd with Fruit- 
 Trees, of feveral excellent kinds. Of Strawberries and Rafpices there is great ftore, 
 and they have large beds of Melons, and Cucumbers =, but moft of thefe laft, which are 
 accounted a great delicacy amongft the Levantines. 
 
 As to the Cucumbers, they commonly eat them without taking off any thing of the 
 rinde, after which they go and drink a glafs of Water. In all Afia, it is the ordinary 
 fuftemnce of the meaner fort of people, for the fpace of three or four months the 
 whole Family lives upon them, and when a Child asks for fomething to eat, whereas 
 in our European Countries, they would give him bread, in the Levant, they bring him 
 only a Cucumber, which he eats raw, as it comes out of the Garrifbn. Laborious, 
 perfons, and fuch as are in a manner tyr'd with working, fuch as Camel-drivers, and 
 thofe who are entrufted with the care of the Hoi fes, and Mules, in the Caravans, make 
 a kind of Sallad of their Cucumbers, not much unlike theMafh, which we would give 
 our Horfes. When they are come to the Lodging place, where the Caravan is to make 
 a ftay, they take a large Bafin, which they almoft rill with water, and having put fome 
 fowr milk into it, they cut a great number of Cucumbers, into great dices, and fo 
 make a kind of math of them. 5 Tis a pleafant fight to fee them at the confounding of 
 it. Amongft ten, or twelve, who all ftand round the faid Bafin, there is but one woo- 
 den Spoon, which every one takes in his turn, till they have made a fhift to empty the 
 Bafin. That done, they fall a drinking of water, and thofe who have wherewithal!, 
 sp and take a v dilh of Coffee, or fmoke a Pipe of Tobacco, 
 
 But 
 
 tht Revenues 
 of the Gardens^ 
 bow employed. 
 
 Cucumber a 
 
 great delicacy 
 amwgli the 
 Levantines. 
 
Chap.XlX. Grand Seignors Seraglio. 
 
 9? 
 
 But to do them all the right they deferve, the Cucumbers in the Levant are excel- 
 lently oood, and, though eaten rlw, they never do a man any hurt. The Story of the 
 Cucumbers which pccalion'd the cruel death of Seven Pages of the Grand Seignor's 
 Chamber, is not, haply, known to all people ; or at leaft, all know not the reafon,why 
 the Pages of the Chamber are not now permitted to go into the Gardens* 
 
 Sultan Mahomtt, -the fecond of that name, taking a turn in the Gardens of the Se- 
 raglio, attended by his Pages, was much furpriz'd to fee a bed of Cucumbers, which 
 luok'd very fair to the eye, and were extreamly forward, cenfidering the Seafon, Be- 
 ing a great loyet of that fruit, he recommended them to the Boftangi-bacbi, who told 
 them over every day, and, with fome impatience, expected their maturity, that he 
 might prefent them to the Grand Seignor. Some daies after, going to Vifit the bed, 
 he found, his number of Cucumbers (horter, than it (hould have been, by three or four, 
 and that they who had taken thofe that were milling, had made choice of the ripeff, 
 and thereupon making a ftrict enquiry, to find out who have been guilty of that pre- 
 emption, he found that the Pages of the Chamber were the only perfons who had 
 been, that day, in the Gardens. 
 
 Upon that difcovery, he went and gave an account of the whole matter to the 
 Grand Seignor, who was fo highly incens'd thereat, that, not prevailing with any one 
 of the Pages to acknowledg the Theft, he, out of a cruelty as much above all credit, 
 as beyond all example, caus'd the Bellies of feven of them to be ripp'd up. The Theft 
 was found in the Belly of the feventh of thofe unfortunate Young Men, who, after 
 the execution done on the other fix, would not acknowledge his guilt, out of hopes, 
 that the Prince's indignation would not have extended fo far. From that very time, 
 and in commemoration of fo ftrange an action, the Pages of the Chamber are not per- 
 mitted to go into the Gardens of the Seraglio \ what one Prince has eftablifh'd, as I 
 have hinted elfewhere, being never revok'd by his SuccefTors, who bear a certain re- 
 fpect to the enactions of their Anceftors. 
 
 In the midft of the Great Walk, which goes from the Seraglio, to the Sea-Gate a Pyramid, 
 which looks towards Scudaret, there is a Pyramid, erected upon a fquare Pedeftal, and wacfo refem!slinjj[ 
 which four men would have much ado to fathom. About the Pedeftal they have fuf- Trajan's 
 fer'd fome bryars and thorns to grow, and it feems to have been done out of defign, * ' au 
 to hinder peoples coming clofe t© it. The Pyramid, from the top to the bottom, is full 
 of Figures, whereof the heads are ftruck off and it may be conjectur'd by fome re- 
 mainders, that there was a very noble head on the top of it, as being the Mafter-piece 
 of the work. This Pyramid fomewhat refembles Trajan 's Pillar at Rome i and fome, 
 who have feen both, imagine, they were the work of the fame Mailer. 
 
 All the Fountains of the Gardens have their Bafins of Marble, of different colours. Foitnuim\ 
 Near each of them, there is a little Scaffold, furrounded with Ballifters, which they 
 fpread with rich Carpets, and Brocado-Cufhions, when the Sultan comes to take his 
 walk there : and 'tis only at that time, the Waters play •, which Diverfion he frequent- 
 ly gives the Princeffes, who bear; him company. 
 
 There are appointed for the culture of thefe Gardens two thoufand Boflangis j and The S*r<iiws s 
 yet, though there be fo vaft a number to keep them, they come far Ihort of the Neat 
 Contrivances, and Imbellifhments of ours. 
 
 (N z) 
 
 CHAP. 
 
94 A delation of the Chap. XX. 
 
 CHAP. XX. 
 
 Of the Princes who follow the Mahumetan Religion, 
 in Europe, Afa > and Africa. 
 
 The Principal Heads. 
 
 General Lawes for all the Mahumetan Setls. A Curious Remark, 
 concerning the Emperour of Java's Son. %jngs y ivho follow 
 the DoBrine of Hali. The (Royal Trejent from the great Mo- 
 gul to Mecha. T7;e federal wayes^ by D?hich the Mahume- 
 tans come to their Prophet's Tomb. Trouble fome De farts to 
 be pafi'J through in their Ivay to the Sepulchre of Hali. A Mi- 
 raculous Channel of Water , of the continuance of Eighteen dayes 
 Journey. Tie Burnt-Offering of a Weather. » 
 
 I 
 
 Gentrd laves ~^UT Have fo often had occafion, in the prefent Relation I have made of the Grand 
 hnmprin cw?" I Seignor's Seraglio, to fpeak of the Mahumetan Religion, that I am content, be- 
 fore I put a period to this Work, to make it appear, how far it extends into the 
 three parts of our great Continent : Mahumetifme having not yet fet footing in- 
 to that which has been difcover'd but two Ages fince. I meddle not at all 
 with the Doctrine of it, of which I am fufficiently affur'd that many perfons have 
 written : and I ftiall only entertain the Reader with a Geographical Chart of all the 
 Countries di Europe, Afia, and Africa, which are under the dominion of the folio wers 
 of Mahomet. 
 
 ' Though the Opinions of their Doctors be different, as to what concerns the Expli- 
 cation of the Law, and that there are principally two great Sects, that of Mahomet^ 
 which is the Stock i and that of Hali, one of his principal Succeffors : Yet thofe two 
 general Sects, and the particular ones, which are derivable thence, are all concordant 
 in the fundamental Points, which every Mahumetan is oblig'd, in Confcience, to ob- 
 ferve and practife. Of thofe I gave an account, when I made mention of the Prayers 
 or Devotions, which the Turks are bound to perform five times a day, and the Pil- 
 grimage of Mecha is one of thofe principal Articles. I have alfo faid fomething of 
 them, in the Chapters treating of the Prefent, which the Grand Seignor fends thi- 
 ther every Year i and in this laft, I (hall endeavour to exprels my felf fully as to that 
 matter. 
 
 In Europe, we have no Mahumetan Princes but the Emperour of the Turlq, and the 
 Cham of the LefTer Tartary: But in Afia there are many of them, who are powerful, 
 and pofTefs'd of great Dominions. The Grand Seignor extends his Jurifdiction, in 
 this part, beyond the Sources of the River Tigris, and beyond the mouths, by which 
 it falls into the Sea, and towards the North, as far as the Territories of the Mengre- 
 lians. To go thence from the Welt to the Eaft, next the Grand Seignor, we muft 
 count the Princes of the Three Arabia's, with feveral of whcm I have cftcn fpoken, in 
 Two of my Voyages, wherein I have been oblig'd to pafs through the Delarts. The 
 King oiFerfia, the Great Mogul, the King of Vifapour, the King oiGolconda, the Kings 
 on theCoaft of Malabar, ol whom the molt confiderable is that of Comorin ■■> the Great 
 Cham oiTartary, and the Kings of the Mountains, to the North fide of the fame Tar- 
 
 tary, 
 
Chap. XX. Grand Seignor's Seraglio. 95 
 
 tary, who are got into China i All thefe Kings, I fay, follow the Mahumctan Re- 
 ligion. 
 
 Since I have mentioned the Emperour of Java, I (hall, by the way, infert here A m i m Re . 
 an obfervation, which I made at the time of my being in that Iiland, which was, mar^of the 
 That the eldeft Son of that Emperour, who reign'd in the year 1648. had lix ringers Emperour of 
 on each of his hands, and fix toes on each foot, and all of equal length. J ava * San - 
 
 The Kings of Perfia, Vtfapoun, and Galconda follow the Sed of Halt j and the Kings Kings following 
 of the Mountains of Tartary, with fome others, have alfo their particular Sects. Be- the pottnne of 
 fides, it is to obferv'd, that, if we except the Grand Seignor, the King of Perfta, the a '* 
 Arabian Princes, and the Cham of Great Tartary, all the other Kings, whom I have 
 named , have only Idolaters to their Subjects, and all the meaner fort of people is 
 involved in the darknefs of Paganifm. But as to the Grand Seignor's, with all his 
 Militia, they follow the Law of Mahomet. 
 
 In Africa, there is a Mahometan King, whofe Territories lie all along the Coaft of 
 Abcx, which is towards Arabia Felix, as far as the Cape of Guardafu, and his Jurif- 
 didion extends over the Red Sea, and the Ocean. The Governours, whom the 
 Grand Seignor employs in Egypt, and in the Iflands of the Red Sea, and thofe others, 
 whom he has eftablifh'd all along the Coaft of Barbary, at Tripoli, Tunis, and Argiers, 
 who aflume the Title of Kings, are alfo Mahometans i and, in fine, the King of Fez 
 and Morocco follows the fame Law. 
 
 All thefe Kings and Princes, are principally unanimous in this Point, That they ac- 
 knowledg themfelves oblig'd to fend every year fome Prefent to Mecha, which ordi- 
 narily confiits in rich Carpets, to be put upon Mahomet's Sepulchre. Sometimes thefe The Great Mo. 
 Prefents are made upon a particular Vow i and it happen'd in one of my Voyages to gul'-f Royal 
 Agra, that the Great Mogul, by way of thankfulnefs to the Prophet, for the recovery ft nt - t0 Meclia <> 
 of his health, fent to Mecha, an Alcoran, valued at four hundred thoufand Crowns, 
 which had, in the midft of the Cover, a Diamond, of three hundred Carats ■■, the reft 
 of it being garnifh'd with feveral precious Stones on both fides. Theoccafion of this 
 Prefent was, the fright which a certain Bramere put him into, upon his telling him, 
 That he fhould dy before the year was expir'd, which happen'd not accordingly. But 
 the King being extremely incens'd at.that direful Prediction, and, upon the (mart In- 
 terrogatory he put to the Bramere, to wit, whether he knew alfo the time of his own 
 death, having receiv'd this Anfwer, That it fhould be within three days => which real- 
 ly happen'd upon the third day, there was a fufficient ground for him to be fright- 
 ned, and to conceive an appreheniion, that the like accident might happen to himfelf, 
 before the time limited. 'Twas that induc'd him to fend a Prefent of fo great value, 
 to Mahomet's Sepulchre, to acknowledge the favour he had done him, in not fuffering 
 the Prediction of the Bramere to take effect, the King having not had as much as any 
 indifpofition, during all that time. 
 
 When I gave an account of the Pilgrimage ot Mecha, upon cccafion of the Tent Tin feveral 
 and Carpet, which the Grand Seignor fends thither every year, I made no mention of ^f^!'"^ 
 the feveral ways which the Caravans take, according to the feveral parts of the World, ' a ^ s f * Wf U ™ e " 
 from whence great multitudes of Mahumetans do every year take their progrefs theSepulchre of 
 thither. their Prophet* 
 
 In the firft place, the AmbalTadors, whom the Kings of the Iflands, whereof I 
 have given you the names, and the Kings of the Indies, on this tide the Ganges, fend 
 to the Sbeck^ot Mecha, with their Prefents come by Sea, to Mocha , a Maritime City 
 of Arabia Felix, and from thence they travel to Mecha by Land, by the conveniency 
 of Camels. 
 
 The Ferfians, who inhabit all along the Sea-fide make their defcent from Ormuspt 
 to Bandar,znd having pafs'd over the Gulf, which, at that place, is not above twelve or 
 thirteen Leagues in breadth, are forc'd to crofs Arabia ere they can get to the Pro- 
 phet's 
 
^ 6 A Relation of the Chap. XX. 
 
 1 • ** ■ — ■ - 1 - ' * *• — — — ^ — -. — * 
 
 phefs City. But the Inhabitants of the upper-parts of Perfia, towards the Cafpian 
 Sea, and all the Tartars, come to lauris, and from Tauris to Aleppo, from which 
 place, the great Caravans, which take their progrefs through the Defarts, fet forth 
 and bring the Pilgrims to Mecha. Some take the way of Babylon, but very feWon/ 
 becaufe the Baffa exa&s a Tribute of them, and particularly of the Perfians whom 
 they account Hereticks \ and that coniideration has oblig'd the King of Perfia to for- 
 bid his Subjcdts to take that Rode, thinking himfelf not inferiour to the lurk. 
 
 7r.vMefoM Some of the Devouter fort of Pcrfians, and fuch as are mod zealous for their own 
 
 ir'^to ILh's ta ^° ^ e Wa ^ °* : - Babylon, upon this fcore, that it brings them at the fame time 
 
 Stolckre.' 5 to tne S e pukhre of their Prophet Halt, which is but eight days Journey diftant from 
 it. This is the moft wretched place, of all the places upon earth, and affords no wa- 
 fer but the moft corrupted water, which is drawn out of certain Pits, and that of a 
 Canal, which Schach-Abas caus'd to be brought thither from the Euphrates, but which 
 is now quite out of repair. Whoever expe&s to drink good water there, mall brin°- 
 it along with him, from other places, from other places, five or fix days Journey di- 
 ftant from the other : And yet that falfc Prophet impofes on thofe, who have fuch a 
 Devotion for him, not only the inconveniences of coming fo far oif but alfo thofe of 
 being in a fair way to perim by thirlt, and hardthip of lodging. 
 
 The laft time it was my fortune to pafs through the Defarts, I came to that defe- 
 rable place upon this occafion, that meeting with a Courrier, who was come from 
 Babylon, with two Arabians, whom he had in his Company, he gave us intelligence, 
 that the Grand Seignor's Forces, which had then newly taken Babylon, were upon 
 their march back, in little Detachments, and that there was no queftion to be made, 
 but they would feize on our Camels and Bagg3ge. Which advertifements oblig'd us 
 to take our courfe more to the South, and to get further into the Defert, where we 
 fpent fixty and five days in the crofling of it, to avoid meeting with thofe For-* 
 
 CCS. ' 
 
 As for the Princes of Arabia, they have no great Journey to make, becaufe they ars 
 the next neighbours to Mahomet's Sepulchre. 
 
 A Miraculous ^ ne Mahimetans of Europe come to Aleppo, and there joyn the Caravan i and thole 
 canal of water of Africa pafs to Grand Cairo, and meet in the Defarts, with the fame Caravan of 
 ■of the length of Aleppo at eighteen days journey from Medina, where there is a water, which goes by a 
 18 days jour- Canal, quite to that City, all the way of thofe eighteen days journey. They have it 
 by Tradition, That that water was found by their Prophet Mahomet, as he crofs'd the 
 Defert with his Army, ready to dy for thirft, and that going to drink of it firft of 
 any, there iffued a Voice to him out of the Water, which faid to him, Prophet, thou 
 ivilt find it bitter : That he made the Voice this Anfwer, Let us all drink^of it, fw I 
 know it is Jrveet, and J would to God, that we could always find as good. That there- 
 upon the Voice replying the fecond time, faid to him, Prophet, Command, and I will 
 follow thee : And that as foon as he had fpoken, the Water made a Canal undes 
 ground, and follow , d him quite to Medina. 
 
 From Vamas, Hierufalem, and Cairo, they account forty days Journey to Medina^ 
 and it is at the two and twentieth day's journey that they find that water. : Tis part- 
 ly to fee that miraculous Water, which had been fweetned by the Prophet, that there 
 goes into thofe places fo great a concourfe of People, of fo many different Nations, 
 from all parts of the World : in as much as there is no Mahumetan, let him be at 
 ever Co great a diftance, and but tolerably in a condition of health, and fupply d with 
 the external accommodations of fortune, who does not think himfelt oblig'd to go 
 once in his life to Mecha, in perfon, or to fend fome other in his ftead. 
 
 After the Pilgrims have continu'd certain daies at Medina, they go to Gebel-Araffa, 
 that is to fay, the place, where Adam found Eve, his Wife, five hundred years, after 
 God had created her. It is a City in the Mountains, at the diftance of Two Dayes 
 Journey from Medina, and at one from Emena i another City, which is half way be- 
 tween 
 
Chap.XX. Grand Seignors Seraglio. 
 
 tween both. Aflbon as the Pilgrims are come thither, all thofe who are fb well fur- 
 nilh'd, buy a Weather to make a Holocauft of it, and to diftribute it amongft the poor, 
 they being not allow'd to keep above two pounds of it, for themfelves. If they do not 
 punctually obferve that, and that fome difcovery (hould be made thereof, they are 
 made incapable, ever after, while they live, of (having their Heads, or paring their 
 Nails. 
 
 From Gebel-j4rajfa> they return to Medina, Where they keep an account of the 
 time, when the Caravan arrived there \ in regard that all the Pilgrims, who came* 
 by Land, are, as I faid elfewhere, maintain'd with fuftenance for the (pace of Se- 
 venteen dayes 5 but they who come by Sea aire fuftain'd, as long as they continue 
 there, even though they (hould make it the place of their abode, as long as they 
 live. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
I&fi or: 
 
 io 3.">)ci Ml if* 
 
 JS'l W 1 1 
 
 4 
 
A SHORT 
 
 DESCRIPTION 
 
 Of all the 
 
 KINGDOMS 
 
 Which Encompafs the 
 
 DELIVERED 
 
 By the Author after above Twenty Years Travel. 
 
 Together with a 
 
 PREFACE 
 
 CONTAINING 
 
 Several Remarkable Obfervations concerning divers of 
 the forementioned Countries. 
 
 <ty> «tb» o&» *$» *rt> 
 •■Si* <»&» 
 cifr> c£» <v|r> 
 
 LONDON, 
 Printed for 2^ L. and ?9Vf<^x Fytt. 
 
o?r» <-ir» <ti» *»S* *>4» *4» <•&» «<4r» *&> *4» «&» «&» «A» «A» «A» 
 
 t^JT c5>» t^o e£«* <jp* <-y» <^i> «y<* «$» c^o *^v> cijo <^> t^T o£» 
 
 Publijher unto the Reader. 
 
 H E enfuing Narration was put into my hands Five or Six 
 Years ago, by a very Intelligent Worthy Perfon, who long 
 refided in the fame Family with our Author,and did affure 
 me, that the Difcourfe here publifhed , was written with 
 his own hand, and prelented unto that Honourable Perfon 
 who redeemed him out of Captivity. The Gentleman 
 who bellowed thefe Papers upon me, will not be refpon- 
 fible for the Truth of all therein contained ; but I having 
 compared his Account of feveral Countries with that of 
 Okarius and other more Ancient and Modern Writers, have found them very Con- 
 fonant unto each other, and therefore do charitably believe him no lefs Faithful in 
 his Defcription of thole Countries and People concerning whom little hath been 
 faid by any befides. By reafon of his long abfence from his Native Country, and 
 dif-ufe of his Mother-Tongue, his ffcyle was fo rough, odd, and unpleafant, that I was 
 forced to make therein great Alterations both as to Method and Exprefllon, yet 
 keeping il rictly unto his fenfe : I have alfo much abbreviated his Difcourle, many 
 things being often repeated, and he having fluffed it with divers impertinencies, 
 which would have been void of all Inftruction and Delight. He would never own 
 his true Name or Pedigree, forReafons mentioned in his Paper, which I thought al- 
 together unncceffary to be rehearfcd •, that of Ajlracan, wherewith he concludes his 
 NARRATIVE, being fictitious, and I fuppofe affumed, becaufe of his long 
 Refidence in a City of that name, from which he made moft of his Excurlions : 
 And which with the Adjacent Country he hath above all others moft particularly de- 
 {cribed, giving us the names of feveral Neighbouring Places and Rivers mentioned 
 by no other Writer. I was highly pleafed with the Account he gives us of Czarofs- 
 gorod, which he alto fometimes cal!s Seraicban and Seraicbena ; the former of which is 
 the Mnfcovtt{ ( h , the latter the Tartarian Appellation, and interpreted,both fignirie the 
 Habitation of the Emperour or Cbamjt being formed ythe Metropolis of a great Empire. 
 As alfo with his mention of a place on the Welt-iide of the Volga, where he fayes 
 Ajlracan was formerly fituated. Concerning both which Cities, I (hall declare di- 
 vers things I have Collected out of feveral European and Arabian Writers, which ei- 
 ther are net commonly known, or little regarded. Eut I muft neceffarily premife 
 fomewhat concerning the Antient Inhabitants of the Country wherein thefe Cities 
 are lituatcd. 
 
 The Hrft Nation (of whom I find any mention) who made any fix'd habitation 
 in thefe Quarters were the CJuzari , fo named by the Latines and Greeks, but by the 
 Mabumctans, Alcbozar, and Gorjani. This Nation during the Reign of the Emperour 
 Jujline, like a Torrent Overflowed all that Vaff Continent which lies between China 
 and the Borijlhenes, Conquered part of India, All BaViria, Sogdiana, and made the 
 Perfians Tributary, by whom they are always called Turks, and their Vi\nce,Cbacan, a 
 Title formerly common unto all great Turki/h Emperours. This Mighty Monarch 
 having conquered the Igors or Jugurs, Avares, Chuni or Huns, Abtelites or White 
 Huns, and all other Tribes otTurks and Tartars, together with the Alani (whofe Do- 
 minion then extended, as appears by Marcellintis, from the Borijibenes far beyond the 
 molt North-Eaft part of the Cajpian Sea) entred into a League with Jufiine^znd ftyles 
 himfelf in his Letters, Lord of the Seven Climates of the World. His Acts maybe read 
 at large in Tbzophilatiw Simocatta ;. Excerptu de Legationibiu : and divers others of the 
 Histamine Hiftorians. This Nation Aflilkd the Emperour Heraclius in his Wars 
 
 ( O 2 ) againft 
 
The Tublijher unto the Reader. 
 
 againft the great Co/roes, whom by their AlTiftance he overcame. Thefe Cbazari were 
 alfo poffefled of all that part of Taurica Cberfonefus which is plain and fit for feeding 
 Cattle, they being addicted, after the manner of all other Scythian Nomades, unto a 
 Paftoral life i which Peninfula from them was untill the Famous Irruption of the 
 Tartars in the Thirteenth Century, called Caffaria, or Cazaria, and afterwards more 
 corruptly by the Genoefes, Venetians, and other Latines , Gazaria. I find mention 
 of thefe Cbazari or Cbozars in divers Perfian and Arabian Hiftorians and Geogra- 
 phers. Abulpharagius acquaints us with an Expedition they made into ferfia the 
 183. Year of the Hegira, which was after our Account in 799, from whence they 
 returned with great Spoile, and above 100000 Captives: and afterwards, in the 
 514 th Year of the Mahometan Epocha , being A. C. 11 20. they made another In- 
 road, accompanied by the Comanians, (whom the Arabians call Kaphjaly-,) Frequent 
 mention is made of them by that Defervedly Celebrated Arabian Geographer Al 
 Edrifty who flouriflied in the 5481'-' year of the Hegira; ofChrift, 11 53. He al- 
 ways calls the Cajpian Sea, Mare Cbozar : And all that Country on the North and 
 to the Welf of the Cajpian Sea, Terra Cbozar. He acquaints us, that the Refidence of 
 the Prince of Cbozar was not far above the Mouth of the Volga, which the Tartars 
 call Atbel -, which name I fuppofe it derived from Anil a, that Renowned King 
 of the Hunnsy being fo called in the Relation of the AmbafTadors who were fent by 
 the Emperour Jujitne , unto the Great Cbacan of the Turks xefiding in the Eaft. 
 Al Edrifi and his Epitomizer, commonly known by the Name of Geograpbus Nubien- 
 fis intimate, That thefe Cbozars inhabited divers other Cities , but that this was the 
 Metropolis j he fuppreffes the Name,ftyling it only from the River, the City of Atbel > 
 and declares, it was divided by the River, the chief and greateft part being on the 
 Weft-fide =, and that the other lefs confiderable on the Ealt-lide, was inhabited only 
 by the meaner fort of People and Merchants,it being a place of great Trade,that which 
 rmde it more confiderable, was the liberty allowed unto all of the Publike Profeftion, 
 and Exercife of their refpeciive Religious Perfwafions, Jews, Cbriflians, Mabumetans^ 
 and Idolaters being there equally countenanced, which I fuppofe might occafion that 
 Dialogue publifhed out of an Ancient Hebrew Manufeript, by VEmpereur, between 
 the Author a Jexvijh Rabbi, and the King of Cbozar. This City is faid to have been 
 extended along the River three miles in length, and it's breadth proportionable ; the 
 Weftern part well fortified s adorned with the Emperours Palace , and feveral other 
 eminent Structures. Najjir Eddin, who wrote at the latter end of the 13th Century, 
 calls this City in his Geographical Tab\es,Balanjar, and from him Abulfeda ithey place 
 it in 4<5 degrees 30 minutes of Northern Latitude > where within fix or eight mi- 
 nutes our beft Geographers teztAjlracan. And queilion lefs this was that City which 
 our Author and Olearim call Old AJhacan. Thefe Cbazari, did, I fuppofe, conferva 
 their vail Dominion without any great Interruption , at leaft until A. C. poo. For 
 Alferganm who lived about that Time, places no other Nation in his Table of Climes, 
 between Cbina and the Boriftbenes And Euticbius, who wrote about 30 or 40 years 
 after, makes mention of them as a mighty Nation, and many amongft them con- 
 verted unto the Chriftian Belief. About the middle of the 10th Century thefe Cba- 
 zari gave place unto the Cumanians or Comanians, who were alfo a Turkifh Nation 
 known unto the Turks, Perfians 3 and Arabians, under the Name of Kapbjacl^ •> whether 
 they expelled the Cbazari, or that the former becoming the more Eminent Tribe, 
 gave Law and Name unto thefe latter (as hath fince frequently happened among the 
 Tartars) I will not here undertake to determine : but this is certain , that fuddenly 
 the Name of Cbazari was extinct, and all that Trait of Land from the Nepper unto 
 Turkeftan 1500 miles beyond the Volga, was inhabited by thefe Cumanians,v/ ho were 
 often troublefome unto the RuJJes, Lithuanians, Hungarians and other Neighbour-Na- 
 tions. But this People was almoft totally deftroyed by the Tartars in that great In- 
 undation which happened at the beginning of the 12th Century, foon after the 
 death of Jingiz Chan •, whofeSon Hocota being chofen Emperour,fent his Nephew Ba- 
 #«, or Bat by, the Son of Tujfy Jingiz Chan his Eldeft Son, with 400000 Men, to in- 
 vade the Northern Parts of Afia. The Cumani for divers years valiantly refilled, and 
 made the greateft oppofition the Tartars met with in all their Conquefts •, repuls'd 
 them in two pitch 'd Battels ; but then growing fecure, and difperfing upon the Tar- 
 tart retreat, they were unexpectedly furprized, the whole Countrey over-run, above 
 a 00000 killed, their King Kuthen hardly efcaping with 40000 into Hungary, where 
 
 hs 
 
The Fublijher unto the Reader. 
 
 he met with a kind reception, had land allotted him, and hisCompany ; which Re- 
 gion is called Campus Cumanm unto this day. This Countrey was lb miferably wa- 
 ited by the Tartars, that in the Years 1253, and 1254, when Rubriquk pafled through 
 it, going unto and returning from his AmbafTage to Manga Chan, there was no fixed 
 habitation, excepting a few Cottages in the Ifland where Ajiracan is now fitu- 
 ated. 
 
 But Batby having deltroyed the Comanians, ruinated their Cities, and eftabliftied his 
 own Dominion , began to think of a rix'd abode, which after long obfervation he 
 chofe near the River Volga, on the Eaft-fide, and immediately beneath the River Alia- 
 bon, a great Arm of the Volga, and the firll it difmifTes , which empties it (elf 
 into the Cajpian-Sea (having run a courfe of near 4c o miles, and received feveral 
 other Branches from the forefaid River) about 7 Leagues Eaftoff the main River. He 
 had newly began this City at the return of Kubriquis from his Embafiage unto Man- 
 gu Cban, in the year 1 246, and called it Serai h Which City was enlarged and beau- 
 tified by all his SuccelTors, unto the time of its dcftrudtion by Tamerlane, which was 
 almoft 150 years. Batby was fucceeded by Barcab , who was the rirft profefled 
 Mabumetan Emperour i> he by Hocola, or HoBay, Contemporary with Hayton the Ar- 
 menian who hath in hisHiltory largely difcourfed concerning him: I lhould here men- 
 tion all the other Emperours interceeding between Hocota and Tucktamifch (who was 
 difpoflefled by Tamerlane ) together with their Ads, but that I haften unto that which 
 molt immediately concerns our prefent Delign, and give fome account of this 
 City, which (aslfaid) was firlt named Serai, which interpreted fignihes only a 
 Dwelling or Habitation \ the beginning of it being a Palace built for Batby. You may 
 fee what our Traveller fays concerning it, Page 112. Befides him I find two Authors 
 who make particular mention thereof', the firft is in the Hiftory of Arabfhiade, pub- 
 limed by Golius. This Author reprefents it as one of the greateft and molt populous 
 Cities in the Univerfe , agrees with our Traveller in the fituation , only he calls 
 that Branch which runs out of the Volga and paffes to the South-Eaft, Sencle, The 
 other is Michovius, who wrote his Hiftory of the Tartars in the year 15 15. He af- 
 affirms, That in his time there remained the ruines of 3 00 Temples , befides the 
 Walls of the City, and feveral other Magnificent Structures. The Tartars have le- 
 veral times attempted to re-edifie it, but divilions amongft thcmfelves, Wars with 
 the Mufcovites, and attempts of the C^ffacks caufed them to retire unto places ot 
 greater fecurity. But becaufe little mention is made of this great Revolution by any 
 European Writer, I lhall here prefent the Reader with an account thereof out of the 
 molt Authentick Turl^/fh, Arabian, and Perfian Writers. For Calcondilas is greatly mi- 
 itaken, who feems to have received by his confident way of writing, molt particular 
 information , when as nothing can be more remote from the truth than what he af- 
 firms, viz,ThatTamerlane after feveral attempts, end two or three Battels was forced 
 to retire, and glad to fecure his Retreat by a Peace, he rirft made with Tuck^ha- 
 mifeb, which was by both afterwards kept inviolably •, which is contrary to the Re- 
 ports of much more Authentick Hiftorians. The Origin, Progrefs and, Event of this 
 War was after the enfuing manner. 
 
 Tamerlane being in effect Prince, but in name only Couracban ( the Greeks call it 
 Kurgan ) that is,Viceroy or General over all thofe Countries which are comprehend- 
 ed between the Oxus and Juxartes, wherein Bocbara, Samarchand, and feveral other 
 famous Cities were contained, extended his Conquefts towards Batch and Chorafan, 
 (the Aria of the Antients i ) which progrefs of his filled Thuetamifcb Emperour of 
 Serai (the City we have before mentioned J with jealoulies of his growing Greatnefs ■> 
 whereupon gathering a numerous Army, he refolved to invade him, uling no forma- 
 lity, or fo much as pretence, he thought to have furprized his Enemy ; but Tamer- 
 lane, one of whole Mafter-pieces was to gain early Intelligence of whatfoever wasde- 
 figned, or tranfacted by neighbouring Princes, having timely notice of his intention 
 gathering all his own Forces, together with confiderable ailiftance from his Confe- 
 derates marched directly towards his Enemy, and palling the Jaxartes } met him to 
 his no Imall aftonilhment, on the Borders of his own Countrey ; for the Jaxartes on- 
 ly divided their Territories. After a molt obltinate bloody fight, Tamerlane gained 
 the Victory, vet neither abfolute, nor without great lok but it was fufficicnt that he 
 
 had 
 
The Tublifher unto the %eader. 
 
 had fecured his own Dominion. After this Succefs he did for divers years attend 
 other Conquefts,and having fubdued a great part of India, all Perfia, Media, Armenia, 
 Affyria, Mefhpotamia, Babylonia, and Syria, he refolved to requite the Invafion of Tbu- 
 Uamifh: whereupon having drawn together an Army of 500coomen, he marched 
 through Media Atropatia, then and fHH called Shervan j palled the Tort* Caucafit, 
 whichithe Perfians name Verbent i thence through Dabejian, and the great Dtfart be- 
 tween that and Afhacan ( then named Gitturcban) and having wafted all that fpacious 
 Countrey on the Weft-fide of the Volga, depopulated and difmantled divers fair Ci- 
 ties (the ruines of feveral being yet vifible to thofe who Navigate the Volga, as 
 we are informed by Olearim ) he parted the Volga , and on the Eaft-iide encoun- 
 tred TbuUamifcb , who had collected a mighty Force, having belides his own Hords, 
 the afliftance of the Tartars of Cajfan, lumen, Kalmukg, and Dabcjian : and his Army 
 by this acceilion was more numerous than that of his Enemy. The Battel was long 
 doubtful, and exceeding all that happened in that Age for carnage and cruelty, both 
 Parties being full of hatred unto their Advcrfaries ■■> and knowing that this Fight 
 Would lofe or gain them a mighty Empire. They fought three days with little in- 
 termiflion, and it could not be difcerned which had the advantage. But that which 
 is thought chiefly to have occafioned Tamerlane's Victory, was the departure of a great 
 Tribe from Tbuilamifch, whofe Prince ESare pretended he had received fome great 
 injury or affront, but 'twas indeed thought he was corrupted : For retreating unto 
 Amuratb the Turkijh Emperour, he after the fame manner betrayed Bajazet, who 
 foon after fucceeded ^ revolting at the beginning of the right unto Tamerlane. IbuUa- 
 mifeb being defeated, "with great difficulty made his efcape, leaving his Countrey ex- 
 pofed unto the fury of the Zagataians J whom fo great a (laughter of their own 
 Friends had highly exafperated. They fpared nothing that was capable of being 
 fpoiled i demolilhed Serai, together with Seraicbick^ upon the Jaicl^, and Gitturcban, 
 which were the only considerable Cities on the Eaft-lide of the Volga, and leaving 
 the Countrey a meer Dcfart, killing,' or captivating the Inhabitants, driving away the 
 Cattle, they returned into Perfia with great Booty. This happened in the 7p i year 
 of the Hegira. A. C. 1388. Serai, and Saraicbick^ never regained their former fplen- 
 dour =, but (Giturcan now Ajbacan) did by degrees recover, but never arrived to that 
 heighth it attained unto during the Empire of the Cbazari and Zavolgenfian Tar- 
 tars. 
 
 For Jofaphat Barbaro, and Ambrofio Contarini , who were both Ambafladors from 
 the Venetians unto Vfun Cajfan Emperour of Perfia, and well acquainted with thofe 
 Parts •, Barbaro living fixteen years at the City Tana on the mouth of the Puver Ta- 
 napf\ and Contarini being forced in his return from Perfia to rcfide there fome months: 
 They, I fay, both tell us, That this City before its deftrudrion by Tamerlane, was a 
 very famous Emporium i all the Silks, moft of the Spices and other Commodities, 
 which were afterwards brought down to Syria, were then carried by Shipping to 
 AjTracm (which they both name Citracban) and thence by Land in a few days to Ta- 
 na, whether the Venetians fent every year fixteen great Gallies. But after its fabver- 
 lion by Tamerlane, this Commerce ceafed, and the Gallies received their Lading in 
 Syria, and at Alexandria of Mgypt. In the time of the forementioncd Writers, 
 which was from the year 1436, when Barbaro firft went to Tana, until his return out 
 of Perfia in 1488. And Contarini, who returned not long before him, Citracban was 
 a mean Town, confining chiefly of Tartarian Huts, and encompafled with a pitiful 
 mud- Wall, a place of no confiderable Traffick, only the Mufcovites fetched thence 
 Filh and Salt. But Juan Vaffilonvicb having reduced it in the year 1554 under his 
 Dominion, it hath been by fucceedingEmperours both fortified and enlarged : I Hull 
 fty no more concerning it, Olearim a moft diligent and judicious Writer, having left 
 us fo particular a Defcription thereof. I (hall only add , That I fuppofe the caufe of 
 fo different names, as Gittercban, Citracban , and Aftracban, were occafioned by the 
 Princes, who fucceflively pra'fided, as is very obvious to any who are acquainted With 
 the Cuftomes of the Arabians, Perfians, Turk/, and other Eaftern People. 
 
 But to return unto our Zavolgentian Tartars , fo called by the Neighbouring 
 Slavonic}^ Nations, becauie the Seat of their Empire r and < their chiefeft places of Re- 
 fidence were on , or near the Volga (which River did alfo almoft equally divide 
 their Territory ) Za being only an Expletive Particle, as I could manifeft by In- 
 duction 
 
c_ — __ * — 
 
 The Publijher unto the Header. 
 
 .duction of fcveral Ruffian, Poiijh, and Lithuanian Names of Men and Countries. 
 After the devaluation of their Countrey they would notwithstanding have foon re- 
 covered their former Grandeur, had not Divifions. and Intelfine Wars long kept 
 them low •, and at length after divers wonderful and great Revolutions given 
 the Ruffes leifure hilt to breath, and then invite them to deprive them of the belt 
 part of their Dominion. They not able to refiffbeing brokemas I faid,by Difcord and 
 Diviiion into divers petty Principalities. And on the other iide , the Crim Tartar, 
 affiited by the Ju)\, Subdued the remainder, whereby that Tribe which before 
 was comparatively inconlidcrable, became Supreme, and is at this day a terror un- 
 to all the North-Eaft Countries of Chriltendom. To fhew in what manner, and 
 by what degrees all this was tranfac~tcd, is rather matter of a juft Hiftory, than of 
 a Preface i the decorum whereof I have already tranfgrefTed, in making a Porch almoft 
 as large as the main Building, to which it fhould ferve only for an Entrance. 
 
 I fhall therefore, conclude with fomefhort and flight Remarks on divers Paflages in 
 our Authors Relation. His account of the Periplus of the Euxine Sea , (leaving out 
 what he allows for the Jeine Sea^ot Palus Mfttf ^differs little in number of Miles from 
 that of Arrian, though they difagree fomewhat in particular diftances ■■> and is wonder- 
 full y confonant to that calculation ot Eratofthones, Hecatms, Ptolomy,md Ammianus 
 Marcel i/. i«, who .reckon it to amount unto 2 3 ooo Stadia, or 2875 Miles, which 
 wants but 15 of our Travellers Computation. 
 
 He is alfo more particular ,and I believe.more exact than any 1 have hitherto met with, 
 in his Defcription of Crim or Tanrica Cberfonefus, whofe length and breadth he gives 
 us in fcveral places djre&ly, or by confequence. What he tells us concerning Arbot- 
 and the great Field without it, furrcunded by the Sea he calls Ihe Ratten Sea, is 
 (carcely mentioned by any Modern Geographer, but wonderfully confonant to what 
 is delivered by Strabo. Arbotkg feems to be Tapbre, the Ratten Sea, he calls <r<t^fa,v 
 M^vnv, or Lacus putris, and affirms to be part of the Palus Mxotis : in compais 4000 
 furlongs, with divers, other particulars, confirming our Travellers Difcourfe, as may 
 be read at large in his feventh Book. And I find in a Difcourfe publilhed by Mr. 
 Thevenot concerning the Tartars, written lately by a Religious Millionary who long 
 refided in thofe parts, a Defcription of this place very fu table unto our Author. His 
 words are thefe, fpeaking of the mod remarkable places in Crim. Arbotec eftun Cha- 
 fieau di/ec une tour fcituee fur la col £une Peninfule que eji enfermce entre la Mer de Limen,. 
 & Tineka Woda cette gorge 11 a plus d'un quart de lieue , elle eft traverfee d'une 
 Fallifade qui spends d?une Mer a P autre : la Peninfule eft appellee par nos Colaques 
 Cofa, a caufe qelle a la forme d'ttne faulx 3 ceft on ce lieu ou le Chan tietit Jon Hants qui eft 
 bien de feptante mille Chevaux. Et ileft un deftroit entre la terre ferme e Cofa 200 pas de 
 large qui e\i gay able quand il eft calmefle Cojfaques le paffent quand ils vont derober le Che- 
 vaux de haras de Cham. 
 
 What our Author .tells us of the Communication between the Tanais and Volga at 
 Camufshanka, is particularly defcribed by Olearius, who wrote many years after him >' 
 who alfo agrees with us in his account of the Rivers of Circaffia, and Comukes Coun- 
 trey, only Our Writer is more punctual in his Defcription of their Sourfes and Courfe, 
 and mentions two or three omitted by Olearius, or unknown to him. A frequent 
 mention is made by Procopius, Agathias, and others of the Bizantine Hiltorians, of that 
 ftrait paffage between Georgia and Anadoule ) or as they word it, between Colchis and" 
 AJm')mhor, or Armenia. 
 
 Our Author having given an account of the Courfe of the Volga, and of the molt 
 femarkable places lying upon, or near it j atlalt allures us, That it empties it felf in- 
 to the Caftian Sea only by 2 2 Mouthes, whofe names he there rehearfes : whereas 
 other Writers afcribe unto it 70 Entrances,though as Olearius judicioully obferves,molf 
 of them are rather palTages made by the Sea between Illands and broken Ground,than 
 proper diftindt Arms or Branches of the forementioned Rivers. 
 
 What is Paid concerning the CoJfac\s retiring unto, and netting in an Ifland of the 
 CaftianSea, is confirmed by a late French Writer, who long refided in Perfia, He 
 
 largely 
 
 / 
 
The PMijher unto the Reader. 
 
 largely acquaints us with the great fpoil thefe Outlaws made on the Coaft of Me- 
 fmderon, that they took Ajhrabath one of the Emperours Royal Seats, ^and having 
 continued feveral days in pofleflion, retired with great Booty and little lofc. 
 
 I could render fome probable account of thole Thieves our Writer calls Sigakgs, 
 of what Nation they are, when they began, and how they live ; butlhallfor brevity- 
 fake wave this and divers other Remarks > and that I may manifeft how impartial 
 my fentiments are in reference unto the Treatife I have here publifhed , I lhall hrft ac- 
 knowledge, That I never met with any Writer who calls that vaft Plain between the 
 Rivers Borijlbenes and Tanais the Defart of Ingel and Vngul, although I have feen di- 
 vers Journals both Antient and Modern, of Perfons who have frequently traverfed 
 that valt Region : and have read moll Hiftories, and perilled Geographical Books or 
 Tables that relate unto the 'Tartars, or their Countrey. Secondly, I mult declare my 
 diftruit of his computation concerning the compafs of the Cajpian Sea which he 
 makes lefs than in truth it is,as I could largely demonltratci though he hath pretty well 
 filved the miltake, by his allowance of a thoufand Miles for Bays,broken Ground } and 
 Promontories. Lattly, Our Author is greatly miitaken, when he affirms, There is 
 no Nation or Tartars between thofe of Bocbara and China i whereas indeed ftveral 
 very Potent Kingdoms intervene. And yet he hath luckily Andabatorum more, hit up- 
 on the Truth, where he allures us, there are no Catayans between .the Vsbeg Tartars 
 and China. For indeed there is at prefent no Catayne befides C/;/>w,which is fo called 
 by all Tartars, Pcrfians, Arabians, and other Mahumetans, as alfo by the Mufcoviteszwdi 
 other Nations who travel thither by Land, either in the Quality of Ambafladors, or 
 Merchants. TIk ugh formerly there was a mighty People, either Turks or Tartars 
 ("they being both Originally the fame,as to Extract, Language, Manners, Religion,and 
 Government Jwho lay diredlly in the way between Perfia and Cbina.jind were certain- 
 ly the Chatdc of Ptolomy, but almoft extirpated by Jingiz Chan, whom they vigorouily 
 reiilkd. And the remainder have ever lince gone under the more general Names of 
 Mogulls and Tartars, as 1 fhall hereafter more clearly and fully demonftrate in a Dif- 
 courfe which I have long ago written, and may fpeedily publilh, concerning the Be- 
 ginnings and Progrefs of the Turk^(h and Tartarian Nations and Empires. 
 
 Right 
 
«#» «xV «»&» *rfr» ™tr* <^V» «<fr> «•&> cJfr» «ir> fit* «A> <*» 
 
 c^o <,> «y» ojo c- t o cy» c^-> ty-> cy> of> ty* <-J«> ojo fj» «^>> «Jf> 
 
 K/gfo Honourable and my moil Worthy Lord, 
 
 Eing given to underftand, That I have been reprefented unto your Lordthip, 
 by feveral who bear me no good will, as a Perfon poflefled with that Vani- 
 ty, which ordinarily prevails among Travellers, of affirming I was well ac- 
 quainted with divers Countreys and Languages, whereunto I am utterly a 
 lbranger : And perceiving that none of my Difcourfes have more expofed mc 
 unto this Cenfure, than a pretended monftrous raih AfTertion (but indeed a real Truth) 
 That I knew and had vilited all the Countreys furrounding the Blacky and Cajpian Seas : 
 I thought my felt neceffarily obliged in order unto my Vindication, to draw up a (nort 
 Account of all thofe Countreys, which do incompafs the forementioned Seas, moft of 
 which Places I have perfonally furveyed, and fear not any Reprehenlion or Confutati- 
 on, being refolved to declare nothing but what I faw, or received from fuch who were 
 beft able to give me full and faithful Information. And I am well allured, That the 
 more ltrid and judicious Enquiry is made into this my Report, the more favour and 
 credit I fhall gain with your Lordfhip, and all other confidering impartial Perfons. 
 
 I fhall firft begin with the Black^Sea, as being that wherewith I was firft acquainted, 
 and near unto this moft famous City of Conjlantinople, where your Lordlhip may eafily 
 learn, whether I am guilty of either falthood or mittake and if I am found upon due 
 Enquiry to declare any manifeft Untruth, I deferve not only unparalleld Reproaches, 
 but the moft fevere and exemplary Punifhments which I ftiould juftly merit, when 
 owing Life and Liberty unto your Lordfhips Bounty and Compaffion, I Ihould inftead 
 of a grateful Acknowledgment, prefent your Honour with a heap of impudent Fal- 
 fities. 
 
 I will begin my Relation or Peregrination, from that fide of the B/^Sea on which 
 Constantinople is fituated, and round the faid Sea, until I return to Scodra, which is in 
 Afia oppolite thereunto. - 
 
 The firft Province is KomeVa => the fecond Wallace ; the third Ackremen •■> the fourth 
 Crim ■■> the fifth the great Defart of Ingul and Vngule, which is between Crim and Af- 
 jhowa; thefixthis the Little Nagoy •, the feventh Circaftah the eighth Abajfa i the 
 ninth is Mingrel'/a i then Georgia ■■> and laftly Anatolia. All which Countreys are fubr 
 je&ed unto the "lurkj, betides the great Defart, the Little Nagoy and Circajfia. 
 
 I fhall now mention the moft noted Places which I know from Fennart, which is 
 about the entrance into the Blacky Sea, unto the River of the Vanaw, fo to the Neijire,, 
 from thence unto the Nepper, fo round about Crim, unto the Gulf that goeth from the 
 B/rfc^Sea into the Teine Sea, and thence unto Aflhowa. 
 
 As I faid, near the Entrance into the BlackJSzz is Fennara, then Innatada, Miffervta, 
 Warna, Baljhick^ Mangalley, Conjlancba, Karabarman, Keeliey, Ackremen, OJJhackg&a, upon 
 the mouth of the River of the Neppre. 1 - ' 
 
 • 6flHow'' > -v-J rw £si2 Jims ^hU '.<\o$ih tin 
 
 Now I fhall declare the Diftances of thefe Places from each other the number of 
 miles being the fpace betwixt what forgoes and immediately enfues. From Finndm 
 to Inatada 80 miles » to Mijfenra 90 > to Warna 1 00 > to Bal(bic1^i6 ; to Mangalley 
 40 to Confiancba 40 =, to Cdraharman 4c h to Kelley 80 » to Ackremen or Beallobord* 
 100 •, to Offhakgvea 80 j in all 666 miles => and from Offhakywa, which is in the mouth 
 of the Nepper, unto the River Von (or lanati) is 500 miles s the Voyage by Sea and 
 journeying by Land being much at one, viz. 11 86 miles, unlefs you go by Land unto 
 Frecop, about Crim, and fo unto AJJhowa, where the Von falls into the Teine Sea (Pu- 
 
io8 A Description of the Countrey s which border 
 
 lm MtotU ) and then it amounts unto at the leaft 1500 miles. Were it not for the 
 forementioned great Rivers of the Vanarp ( Vanubim ) and the Nepper ( Borijlbenes) 
 there would be almoft . continual Wars between the Turks and Tartars , and the 
 Poles, Lithuanians and Mufcovites j for the Vanarp is one of the greateft Pavers in the 
 World arifing in Vutcbland, whence it pafles through Hungary, Wallacby, and at the 
 Town of Kelley falls into the Blacky Sea. It hath four Mouths or Entrances into the 
 Laid Sea, which 1 the Turks call Bohaffes, Boilegen Bohajfe, Edrcleijfe Bohajfe , Sullcna Bo- 
 hajje, and Kelley Bobajfe. It abounds with Fifh, as Sturgeon, Morone, and Sbcverckc, 
 betides divers forts of fmaller Fifli. The Neiftre is a River that comes from Lithuania, 
 and runs into the Blac\ Sea under Bealoborda. The Nepper comes from Lithuania and 
 Rutland, runs by Smolenskg and Kiovia to the Porrocks or Falls, thence to Ajlamgorode, 
 and falls into the Blacky Sea at Offhakyxva. It abounds with many forts of good Fifb, 
 and all along its Banks feed innumerable wild Beans of divers kinds. The Town of 
 Aflamgorod ttands upon theNepper > and in former times there dwelt in it two Bro- 
 thers, "ingid and Vngul, who fell firft at variance, which ended in cruel Wars, by rea- 
 fon whereof the adjacent Countrey became, though otherwife pleafant and fruitful, a 
 very Wildernefs. And befides, the Cojfacks increafing on both fides the Nepper and 
 upon the Don, would never fince fuffer that Countrey to be quietly polfeiTed by thefe, 
 or any other Hords of Tartars fo that now it lieth wafte, being a vaft Defart 500 
 miles over, and 1 000 miles long, from the (hallow Waters near Precop, unto the 
 Countrey of Mufcovy. About 1625 the Grand Seignior fent an Army from Confiantino- 
 ple to rebuild Aflamgorod, with Orders to inhabit the Countrey, and invite fuch there- 
 unto as would become fubject unto the Turkijh Government. But they who arrived, 
 finding the Town of great Compafs, built only a Cattle on the Bank of the Nepper, 
 and left 300 Men in Garrifbn. At the fame time Sbaugary Prince of Crim, being beat 
 out of his Countrey by his General Cban Timur Myrja, retired unto the Cojfacks upon 
 the Nepper, and having contracted a Friendfhip with them and the bordering Ruffes, 
 by their afliftance he gathered an Army of 40000 Men, and marched towards Crim, 
 leaving behind him a revolted Ottoman, with a Brigade of 3 or 4000 Men, who im- 
 mediately after the departure of Sultan Sbaugary, marched diredtiy towards Aflamgo- 
 rod, and early in a Morning furprhed the Cattle, then in the polTeiTion of the Turks, 
 put every Man in Garrifon to the Sword, flighted the Walls and other Fortifications, 
 retired with the Spoyl, and marched to joyn Sultan Sbaugary, who in the interim 
 arrived near Precop, where he was met by Chan Timur, and totally defeated, but by 
 good fortune efcaped, and by the way of Ajtracan got to Perfia. 
 
 From the Nepper we will pafs unto Crim, with which Countrey I am well acquaint- 
 ed, having againft my will refided there Come years. Crim is a fmall Land, to near 
 as I can conjecture 200 miles long, and 50 miles broad, but is wonderfully populous, 
 and exceedingly fruitful, abounding with Corn and Grafs the only fcarcity they have 
 is Wood, which grows no where but upon the Sea-Coait, from Bal^jfey Seray unto 
 the Town of Crim, which in former times was the.chief City : All the reft of the Land 
 is a Plain, where they have no Wood to burn, nor any fort of Fewel, but Fifibek^,FuJl- 
 bane, Curay, and Stroa. The Land is inclofed with the Sea, excepting at two places, 
 Precop, and Arbotkg. By Precop there is a narrow patTage, through which you may go 
 to the Nepper, Lithuania, or Mufcovy, through the Defarts of Ingul and Vngul i and 
 there is a Water comes from the Teine Sea, called the fhallow Water, and goeth along 
 the Defart, until k comes to Precop, upon Weft-fide of Crim and by North, where it 
 turns back on the North-fide of Crim, and falls into Cuellae Mare, commonly called 
 the Ratten Sea. So that Crim is almoft furrounded with Water for the Blacky Sea is 
 on the one fide, and the Ratten Sea on the other, which latter produces nothing but 
 Salt, for it is fb fait, that no Fifh can live therein ; I have reafon to know it, becaufe 
 I lived in a Village which was called Seekgly Otta Mamutacby. The Towns round 
 about Crim on the Sea-fide are thefe, Precop, Cufloxpa, Crim, Caffa, Kcrfc and Arbotka i 
 and within the Land, Carafe, Ackgnejh, Meflbeite, and Bakgjfy Seray. The Town of 
 drbotka. lieth on the North-Eaft fide oiCrim, between the Blackjznd Ratten Seas, which 
 there come fo near together, that there is no more Land between them, than that 
 whereon the Town of Arbotka ftands* and without Arbotka is a great Field 50 miles 
 long incloftd with Water, where the Tartars in Winter do keep their Hergels or Hor- 
 
upn the Euxine and Ca(pian Seas. 109 
 
 Qs which Field goeth to the (hallow Waters, where I ran away from the Tartars. I 
 I hali here take my leave of Crim, and pafs unto the Little Nagoy, to Afjhotoa, on the 
 River Von, which runs down from Bealla Ojjharra, through the Country of Kujfta, 
 between Rujfta and Lithuania, until it comes to Peilesboy, not far from the Wolga \ for 
 from Peilesboy to the River Camufjhankg, is not above 20 miles all level, which is cal- 
 led Perervology where the Cojfackj do draw their Strukes or Boats upon Wheels, to the 
 River of Camufjhanka, by which they pafs into the Volga ; whereupon this Place is cal- 
 led Perewolog. The Von runs down between the Little Nagoy and the Defarts of Ingel 
 and V/iaule^ fo to Afjltorva, right under the Town, and there falls into the Tein Sea. 
 This River is full of Fifh, efpecially Sturgeons h well inhabited by Cojfacks, for there 
 are feldom lefs than 10000 upon it, befides thofe that go on Freebooting. There are 
 alfo 1 6 Gorodkees, or ftrong Skonces, well manned, and with ftore of great Guns, 
 they being; in continual fear of the Turks and Tartars, and lbmctimes alfo of the Mus- 
 covites. The Little Nagoy lies between the Tein and Cajpian Seas, the former on the 
 Welt, the latter on the Eaft, Shercajfen to South, and the Volga on the North i and 
 there is never a Town in all this Countrey excepting Ajjhoxva. It is inhabited 
 by Tartars , who go altogether in Hords ■•, their Prince in my Time was Caf- 
 jay Myrj'a, whom the Tartars call alfo Sultan Vlugb, or the Great Prince. They fowe 
 no Corn but Prop, which they (owe upon the Sea-fide up unto Afjhowa ; and after 
 fowing they depart with their Hords, and graze up and down the Defarts to the Von, 
 to Capbane, Shurpoba, Tedecul, Comma and Curray, to Mafjhargorodokg, and to Shercajj'en 
 Land, under the Rivers Terigke, and Balke, and almoft to Pettigor, and by the River of 
 Cnpb i, and back again unto the Blacky Sea. Thus they ramble all the Summer, until 
 their Harveft be ripe, and their Profs gathered, and put into Yams under ground -, af- 
 ter which they fettle from Ajjhorva, ail along the Sea-fide, amongft the Reeds, and 
 leave their Horfes to winter in the Defarts. So I fhall leave the Little Nagoy, and pafs 
 unto Temeroj[a,'m Shercajfen Land, which is 500 miles from Afjhorea. 
 
 Now m all Circaffia are but two Towns, Temerojfa on the Blacky Sea, upon the 
 Gulf that goeth from the B/^Sea into the 7ei«Sea, right over againft Arbotlta. The 
 other is Tumein, upon the Cajpian Sea, the diftance between them being 1 1 00 miles h 
 and all the reft of the inhabited Places are only Cubbacks made in the Woods, piled 
 round with Timber. Their Houfes are very high, in the midft whereof they make 
 the Fire. Their Men are proper Men, very like the Irijh both for perfon and garb 
 for they go in Trowfes, with fhort Mantles, wear long Hair on both fides of their 
 Heads, with a (horn Crown between. Their Women are very beautiful, and loving 
 to Strangers i for if a Stranger come unto their Houfes, their young Women and 
 Maidens will look Lice in their Shirts, and all about them, the moft private parts not 
 excepted, and will allow them the liberty to examine and handle all parts of their 
 Bodies befides their Breads. The Ctrcajjians are excellent Horfemen, and very couragi- 
 ous, but withal exceedingly ignorant and fuperftitious i for when they kill a Goat or 
 Kid, they cut off the privy parts, and caft it againft a Wall, if it ftick, they pray to it •, 
 if otherwife, they caft it away, and fpread the Skin upon Stakes, place it in their, 
 Corn-fields, and worfhip it. They have no Writing among them, yet pretend to be 
 good Chriftians. Do ftrangely bewail the Dead, making great Cryes, fcratch their 
 Hands and Faces, until they draw much Blood, knock their Foreheads againft the 
 ground, until Knobs arife bigger than Plums. The Men are notorious Thieves, fteal- 
 ing from each other, and he that fteals moft is accounted the braveft Fellow. Their 
 Countrey is very fruitful, abounding with moft forts of Grain 5 and they have ftore of 
 excellent Grafs. They have alfo much Fruit growing wild > many forts of Eeafts, 
 as Harts, Hinds, Kine, Eiflubrafs, Hogs and great Adders. 
 
 The confiderable Rivers which I know are Cubba, which runs from Pettigor, be- 
 tween Shercajjen Land and the Little Nagoy, betwixt Termerojfa and Aj]howa> 20 miles 
 from Temerojfa it falls into the Jein Sea, and hath a Courfe of 500 miles. The next 
 is the River cf Balkg, which comes out from Cabardy, and falls into the River of Te- 
 rigke, 200 miles from its Sources which River ofTerigkg defcends from the Mountains 
 between ShoVohofe Knajj'e and Mundarawa Knajfe, runs through the Countrey almoft 
 due Eaft, paffes by Goracho Colloda, thence to the Sbujfa 3 and the Shunfa, fo on to 
 the Weijira and 6 miles from Tumein^ between Tumein and the Commockj Countrey, 
 
 (P 2) it 
 
A Dejcription of the Countreys which border 
 
 it tails into the Cajj>ian Sea, having a Courfe of 600 miles. There is another River 
 called fymenkp, which- is a branch oiTerigfy, runs through Tumeine Town, and 3 miles 
 beyond it enters the Caftan Sea. There is alfo another River which they call Keeflar, 
 which falls out of Terigkg, and 60 miles from Tumeine is received by the Caftan Sea. 
 
 Having formerly mentioned Pettigor, I (hall give you Come Account thereof Petti- 
 gor being interpreted, is in Englifh 5 Hills. They are five very great and high Moun- 
 tains, diftant about 500 mile? from the Blacky Sea, and 700 from the Caftan beyond 
 Cabardy. I came thus to know them : 
 
 In the year 1618. I was fent with Shiedafy Myrfa, from Afiracan to the Little Na- 
 goy, to feize upon Orrafy Myrfa y who being informed of our coming, fled up to Petti- 
 gor ; yet he made not fiich halt but we overtook him, and having fought, overcame 
 him, and took away his Hords, by which means I became acquainted with Pettigor. 
 Nevertheless there ate higher Hills than Pettigor, as Sneefnagore in Cabardy, which is 
 incredibly high, which is in Englilh, the Hill of Snow > for upon that and Sbadgore, 
 which {ignities a wonderful high Hill, and overtops the former, and fo along for 100 
 miles, from Cabardy to Shollohofe, prodigious quantities of Snow ar«e lodged, which 
 it's thought were never diflolved fince the Creation. I asked a Circapan, Whether 
 ever any Man arrived at the top of Sbadgore, which to me teemed much elevated above 
 the reft i who anfwered me. They had a Tradition among them, that formerly a Bo- 
 battcere, whofe Name was Hroda, attempted to climb it,- and after two or three days 
 hard labour,arrived not unto the middle but after a few days,being better accommo- 
 dated, he returned, with a refolution, if it were poffible, to lee the top, but was ne- 
 ver afterwards heard of i and added, That it was to that day cuftomary for the neigh- 
 bouring Circa fians, at a certain leafon of the year, with divers Ceremonies and great 
 Lamentations to bewail his lofs. 
 
 The next Countrey to Sheercaffen Land is Abajfa, which is fituated between CircaJJra 
 and Mingrellia, and the Inhabitants are a kind of Circafftans. Mingrellia is under the 
 Dominion of the Turfy, and lies on the B/^Sea. Of thefe two Countreys I have no 
 great knowledge, having only coafted them three or four times in Boats, when I was 
 among the Cojjacfy, where alio we landed divers times, taking ftore of Kine and Sheep, 
 but no Piifoners, becaufe they affirmed themielves to be Chriftians. They are a pro- 
 per handfome People, but very poor, and notorious Thieves, for they fteal not only 
 Goods, but even Women and Children from each other, and fell them unto the Turfy 
 and Tartars chiefly for Salt, which is there very fcarce. 
 
 Next unto Mingrellia is Georgia^ whefe Inhabitants are little better than the former, 
 only they have a kind of Scripture for they worftrip Idols or Images, yet have Cloi- 
 fters, and a fort of Monks, with fome Priefts of the Greek Belief. I once landed in 
 Georgia with an Army of 5000 Men, we marched up into the Countrey, until we came 
 within a days journey of Veimur Capou, or the Iron Gate, which is a narrow paflage 
 between Georgia and Anatolia, with Rocks on each fide, and a ftrong Town built in 
 the midft : We ftayed ten days ravaging the Countrey > they told us, this Town and 
 Caftle belonged to the King of Perfia, and there is no other paflage out of Georgia into 
 Perfia but through lU 
 
 The next Countrey unto Georgia U Anatolia, where our Traveller refided feveral years, 
 having been fold by the Precopenfian Tartars, unto a Turkilh Spahi or Timariot ; of which 
 Countrey, and the Manners of the Inhabitants, he gives a large Defcription : But we being 
 fufficiently informed thereof by divers intelligent Europeans, who dwelt long in thofe Parts, 
 frail with our Traveller pafi on to thofe Countreys which are lefikpown. But firfi we will 
 tafy hti Account of the Periplus of the Euxine or Black Sea. 
 
 From Fennara, which is at the head of the Strait or Gnlf that enters the B/^Sea 
 to Precop, is 700 miles i from thence to Caff a, a noted City and Port in Crim 300 
 miles j to Afjhoroa 500 miles ; to Temeroffa 500 miles j to Mingrellia 400 miles \ to 
 Trebezond 400 miles ■■> and from thence unto ConfianUnojlt 1000 miles i in all 3800 
 
 miles* 
 
upn the Euxine and Cafpian Seas. 
 
 1 1 1 
 
 miles. Thus much I know of the Blacky Sea, which I have three times coafted by Sea, 
 and traced above half by Land ; fo that now it is time to fpeak concerning the Cajpian 
 Sea, and ["hew all the Kingdoms and Countreys which lie upon it, beginning at Ajira- 
 can, and proceeding thence Eaftwards, until I return unto the fame City from the 
 South. 
 
 A(lracan is placed On a riling ground, not far from the mouth of the Volga, from 
 which it is not diftaht above 50 miles i it is in an Ifland on the Great Nagoy fide, made 
 by the River Volga, and a branch thereof, having the Caspian Sea on the South. The 
 Town or City is fecured by a ftrong Caftle, furnifhed with ltore of great Ordnance, 
 and in the midft of the Caftle is a Roskade, which commands both Caftle, Town, 
 and the Fields round about for above a mile. The Tartar's Town is adjoyning, placed 
 near unto Cutuma, which is a River naturally derived from the Volga, or one of its 
 many branches i fo that the Town is incompafled with Waters, having the main bo- 
 dy of the Volga on the Weft, and Cutuma on the Eaft. Now if you would know 
 whence the Volga comes, I will acquaint you with what I have learned from the Muf- 
 covites. Its utmoft Source is faid to be at the foot of a great Tree, whence it runs un- 
 to Jeriflave i ooo miles '•> whence it proceeds to Neifna 500 miles, and thence unto 
 Cajfan 300 miles i from Cajfan to Samara 500 to Saratoft^o miles •, to Saraicbena 
 350, and thence unto AJiracan 500 miles s from whence it is, as we faid before, unto 
 the Cajpian Sea 50 miles in all 3 550 miles* 
 
 The Volga is a wonderful great River, abounding with divers forts of great Fifh, as 
 Sturgeon, Bellouk^, Severuke, Sbelren, Sterlekg, Som, Sajfan, Suke, Sondake, K'onnee, Sablee y 
 LeJJee, Wobla, Tarane, and many others both great and fmall, which I -cannot readily 
 call unto remembrance, notwithstanding that I dwelt there ten years. The Volga en- 
 ters the Cajpian Sea by 2 2 mouths, and upon each of them is an Ongbfukg or Filh-wear, 
 for to take Sturgeon, every one of which Ougbfukgs is called by the name of the Wa- 
 ter, as Soellova, Vertullee, Bojferigee and Rujlorva upon the main Wolga. Coition, Bee- 
 rullee, Lnvanfak^, Man for, ArgeeJJ'an, Keejfan y Camufjhuke, Naorcara, lujjockl) 1 , Collobery, 
 Malla Collobery, Tamanfuhg, Eiricbjha, Surka, Libejfoa, BuJJan, CarabuJJan, Bealla JVollof- 
 kee. In all which Ougbfukgs or Wears, they take no Fifh betides Sturgeon. They are 
 made of Sbigeim, or long Poles made (harp at one end : and beaten into the ground un- 
 der Water, and a pleiting made of Rods, fomewhat refembling Ofiety after the man- 
 ner of our Matts, which are faftned to the Poles, and hinder the Fifh from palling up 
 the River. And Houfes are built near the Wears for the Convenience of the Filhers, 
 40, 50, more or lefs, according unto thegreatnefs of the Water, orrefortof Fifh, 
 and twice every day, ufually in the morning and evening, they fet about their Fifhery. 
 They imploy only long (lender Poles, with an iron Hook or Cruke in the end baited, 
 and do ordinarily take 400 every day in the fmaller, and <5oo in the larger Streams. 
 The Sturgeon they take is all falted, excepting that wherewith they ferve the Town 
 of Ajlracan, where a whole fair Sturgeon may be bought for ten pence Englifh •, and 
 when the great Caravan comes from RuJJia, it takes off moft of their Fifh, which is 
 conveyed into divers parts ofMnfcovy, but chiefly unto the great City of Mofco. They 
 return alfo with great quantities of Caviar and Salt, there being not far from t\itVolga t 
 on the Little Nagoy fide, great Salt-pits, which yield an immenfe quantity of Salt, pre- 
 pared yearly by the heat of the Sun, without any further trouble, than taking it off 
 the fuperricies of the Water where it daily kerns* 
 
 The Volga, a little above Seraichena, 500 miles from Ajlracban, difmifles a great 
 Branch named Attabon, which pafling through the Defarts of the Great Nagoy through 
 Buffanepfttxs the Cajpian Sea. The remainder of the Volga, after having parted with 
 feveral fmaller Branches, moft of which joyn with the forementioncd River, divides 
 the Little and Great Nagoy, paffes under the Town of Ajlracban, whence it proceeds 
 unto Ruflowa, on the South-weft fide of Crofna Boggar, then falls into the Cajpian. 
 And the diftance between the Eaft-fide of theVolga near Ajlracban, and the River Ada' 
 bon } is about 20 miles, which is moftly Water and Iflands. 
 
 And 
 
 \ 
 
z A Defcription of the Countrey s which border 
 
 And that the Courfe of the Volga from its firft Source, until it doth dif-embogue it 
 fclf into the Cajpian Sea, can be no lefs than what we have aflerted, is hence confirmed, 
 That the Snow which falls abundantly in Ruffia, and begins to be diffolved about the 
 latter end of April, and do mightily increafe the Waters of the Volga, come not unto 
 AJiracban until Midfummer, when it Co raites the Volga, that overflowing the Banks, 
 it covers with his W aters all the Iflands near AJiracban > fo that from the Little Nagoy, 
 unto Aftabon in the Great Nagoy, all the Countrey feems, excepting a Hillock or two, 
 one continued Lake, or a great Gulf of the Sea. Wherefore they who go in the 
 Spring from AJiracban to fetch Wood, having cut it, make great Floats, which are 
 lifted up when the River overflows, and guided each by a few Men, until they are 
 brought unto AJiracban, or thofe other places for which they are defigned. 
 
 The molt remarkable Towns and Habitations upon the Volga, between Seraichena 
 and AJiracban, (which are 500 miles diftant from each other ) zxtCamena, Rok^gorva, 
 Ojfhencfka, Cbornoyar, Borijfe, Offatalka, Poollowoy, Collmakof S atone, Cojfoyar, Crojhoyar, 
 Naffonoyar, S atone, Tanatavy, T)aneelofl{a, Perre Ouffhake, Eillanfuke, ILvlyborro, Gmtya, 
 BuJJ'an, Baljbeckg, Tollotonygorod, Volgoa, Goradocba (which was old. AJiracban) Sbarina, 
 Bogor, which is near AJiracban, befides many other Places, with whofe Names I have 
 not charged my memory. We will now pals over the Volga through AJiracban into 
 the Great Nagoy. 
 
 The Great Nagoy may be properly enough divided into Iflands and Continent ; the 
 former are made by the Volga, and feveral Rivers which fall out of it, varioully mix'd 
 with each other, and are all at length emptied into the Cajpian Sea. Thofe Rivers or 
 Branches have their feveral Names ; thofe which I remember are Cuttoma, Boulda, Mai* 
 la, Guellufa, Creevpantya, Bufane, AcJabon and Bereft. The Kingdom of the Great Na- 
 goy is all plain and defart > 1 200 miles in length between AJiracban and Samara ; 500 
 miles in breadth from the faid, AJiracban unto the River of the Teihg or Jaick. There 
 is no Wood in all this Countrey, except what grows near the Rivers. It hath no 
 Towns or fix'd Habitations, though it had formerly divers, and fome among them 
 very confiderable, as Czarofsgorod, or Czarofs Vallate, in Englifti, the Emperor's 
 Town, which formerly muft needs have been as its Name imports, an Imperial or Ca- 
 pital City. I have often viewed it with admiration, and cannot compute it to have 
 been lefs than 20 miles in Circuit > I have told fourfcore great eminent Buildings, 
 which muft have been either MoJ'cbees, Pallaces, or Caravanferaks, and fome of them 
 6 miles diftant from the other. The Muscovites are of divers Opinions concerning its 
 Dcftruction : Some (ay it was ruined by the Cojfackj '■> but the CoJJ'jcks, who are rea- 
 dy enough to brag of their Achievements, know nothing thereof, only that they have 
 often difpoflefled the Ruffes, when they endeavoured to rebuild part of it. For in- 
 deed the Situation is very excellent, having the Volga on one fide, the Ailabon on the 
 other : The Countrey very beautiful, healthful and fertile =, and yet notwithstanding 
 all thefe encouragements, it is not yet inhabited, not by the RuJJes, becaufe it Handing 
 on the main Land, they would be continually expofed unto the Inroads of the Tar- 
 tars ; nor by the Tartars, becaufe its nearnefs unto the Rivers, would render them ob- 
 noxious to the Ruffes, every time the great Caravan paffes that way, which is at leaft 
 twice each year. Yet the Mufcovites do frequently fetch Brick and Stones from this 
 ruined City, wherewith they have built a great part of AJiracban, and the neighbour- 
 ing Forts or Towns, where fuch folid Materials are imployed. But betides this Serai? 
 ( for fb the Tartars call any fix'd Habitation ) there were in ancient times five or jjx 
 more down along the Rivers fide, in each of which formerly dwelt a Cban ; but Time 
 and Wars have almoft entirely ruined them. There is alfo another Serai upon the 
 River Jaick^ named Seraicbika, where is faid formerly to have been the Rcfidence of a 
 great Myrfa or Cban i but 'tis now quite ruinated. 
 
 The Tartars who inhabit the Great Nagoy, both Men and Women, are very proper, 
 at leaft of much taller Stature than many other Tartars, but have ill-favoured Counte- 
 nances, broad Faces, flat little Nofes, (mail Eyes funk in their Heads ; all which are 
 common to moft of the Eaftern Tartars. But the Tartars of Crtm are more comely, 
 which, I fuppofe, may partly proceed from their Wives, who arc many of them Cap- 
 
upon the Euxine and Cafpian Seas. 1 1 j 
 
 tive CircaRians, Ruffes, Poles, Hungary, and of divers other Nations. The Nagoy Tar- 
 tars are alfo Black or rather Tawny > which I Conjecture is not fo much natural, as 
 proceeding from the heat of the Sun, which is in thefe Parts fome Months of the Year 
 much more Excellive than one would expect from the Climate. And befides, their 
 Children go ftark naked during the great heats in Summer. It is alfo remarkable, 
 That the Cold in Winter in the fame Country is exceeding fevere, and one would 
 think to them who have fuch mean accommodation, intolerable. Thefe Nagoy Tar- 
 tars have great ftore of Cattle, as Kine, Sheep, Hcrfes and Camels, and yet notwith- 
 standing they are very ill clad, moft of their Clothing being Sheep-Skins, and thofe 
 but fcurvily dreffed. They have no fort of Corn or Grain, mightily fcorning the 
 Europeans and Perfians, whofe chief Diet, they fay, is the top of a pitiful weed. Po- 
 lygamy is not only allowed, but altogether in fafhion among them, moft having di- 
 vers Wives, more or fewer according unto their Quality and Ability -, who unlefs 
 they are Captivated by War, are fuch as they buy of their Parents or Kindred for 
 Cattle. If one Brother dye, the other takes all his Wives, who are ufually 5. or 6. 
 But if all the Brothers die, either in War or by Difeafes, then they are devolved like 
 other Goods and Chattels unto the Elder Brother's Son, they never fuftering any mar- 
 ried Woman, during life, to go out of the Kindred. 
 
 Here our Author hath inferted a Difcourfe concerning divers odd y 
 md fome barbarous Cuflomes lohich have long prevailed among the 
 Nagoy Tartars, and wherewith they loill not eafily Dijpe?ice. But 
 they giving little light unto Hijlory or Geography^ I have not thought 
 them worthy the trouble of tranfcrihing ; ncr do I apprehend they would 
 ajford any conjiderable inJlruBion or divertijement unto the Reader. 
 
 Thefe Tartars of the Great Nagoy when they remove their habitation, tranfport 
 their Houfes from place to place in Waggons with 4 Wheels, which are drawn ufually 
 by Camels they pafs up and down the Country in great Hordes,their ordinary march 
 is from the Volga unto Buskpwfhakg'i thence to Vorojhne, Samara, Eirgeejfe, Eijhene, 
 Ougogura, Reimpes^a, and all along under the Calmukgs Country, untill they arrive at 
 the Jaick^ox Teiks : Sometimes they pafs by Caffoone, Aurrow, Camoyes Samar, and fo 
 to Saraicbika : This is ordinarily their Summer Progrefs. Againft Winter they return 
 unto thofe parts of the Country which berder upon the Cajpian Sea. As Baksake upon 
 the Ca^fw Sea i Beall/ijia, Kiigacb, Sbcennamara, Coudake, Caradowan, AUabon\ and 
 higher upon the Volga, fcattering themfelves upon the Sea-(hore and Banks of the 
 Rivers among the Reeds and VVoods, or wherefoever they find the Climate moft 
 mild and .belt Defence againft the Cold, which in the Winter is in thefe Parts ex- 
 tremely fevere ; fo that 'tis hard to determine whether they fuffer more from the Heat 
 in Summer, or Cold in Winter. During which latter Seafon they leave their Hergcls 
 or Horfes, and moft of their greater Cattle to drift for themfelves in the Deierts. 
 
 Having had often occafion to mention the River Jaicke or Tr%, I fhall here give a 
 fhort account of what I have obferved and learnt concerning its Rife and Courfe. Ic 
 comes from the Calmukgs Land, where it is thought to fpring ; though fome of the 
 Ruffes affirm it, Fountains are more Remote in Siberia^ the Southern parts of which is 
 alfo inhabited if not poffefled by the Kalmukes, fome of whofe Vluffes or Hords are 
 fubjedf unto the Muscovites ; others in League with them : but they have fometimes 
 cruel Wars, and did formerly deftroy Tumen with fome other Towns and Caftles of 
 the Ruffes, who they apprehended did incroach too faft upon them. But to return 
 unto the Courfe of the 2ez^ after it hath pafled through the Calmukgs Country, it 
 divides the Great Nagoy from Caffacby Horda, and after it hath pafled in all a Thou- 
 fand miles, throwes it felf into the Cajfian Sea a little below Seraicbi^a. This is a ve- 
 ry large River, and the Land on each fide well doathed with Wood, Grafs, divets 
 forts of Herbs and wild Fruits, and the Water full of good Filh ; which Convenien- 
 ces do oft-times invite the Coffacks to make their abode there, and from thence they 
 make Incurfions 011 divers parts bordering on the Cafyian Sea. This River, among 
 
 cUveis 
 
114 A Dejcripion of the Countreys which border 
 
 divers other Fifh, doth fo wonderfully abound with Sturgeon, that a man may flan:! 
 upon the Eank iide with a Pole in hand arm'd at the end with an Iron Crook, make 
 choice oE what Sturgeon, belt pleafeth him, which he (hall rarely fail of taking though 
 never fo inexpert in Fifhing, if he have but ltrength or help to draw it on Land. Not 
 far f rom the Mouth of the Jaicl^ in the C.rjfian Sea near the Shore, are many Coves 
 and Corners which they call Lapatcens and Cultukes, which are alwayes full of Swans 
 ufually fwimming on the Sea, which are fo numerous, that it is impoflible to make 
 any reafonable Computation thereof. T hefe Swans after Midfummer every Year cait 
 their Feathers, a little before which time there parts from Ajiracan many Boats which 
 are manned by Ruffes', and molt of them are their Youth =, after a paffage of 500 miles 
 they arrive at thefe places which the Swans mollly haunt, and having filled their Boats 
 with Swans Skins and Feathers, they return unto Ajiracan, where a great Trade is 
 driven with the Perfians who give ordinarily a Dollar apiece for tbefe Skins. 
 
 The next Country unto the Grest Nagoy towards the Eafl is Cajfachy Horda, which 
 hath, as I faid, on the Welt the Jaick^, by which it is divided from the Great Nagoy. 
 On the North the Kalmukes, North Eatt the Turgeacb, or Jurgencb. Tartars, and to 
 the South the Caftian Sea and Caragans, who inhabit on the North Ealt fide of the 
 Cdjfian Sea. Thefe Caff achy Tartars march up and down the Country much after the 
 manner of the Nagoy s. They have frequent Wars with the Kalmukgs and Turgea- 
 chians ; but feldome with either Nagoys or Caragans. Only after the manner of moll 
 other Tartars they will clandeltinely Ileal even from thofe Neighbours with whom 
 they have the moll uninterrupted and profound Peace. 
 
 Cajfachy Horda is altogether Defart, excepting fome Woods Northward, bordering 
 upon the Kalmuck^, where there are (livers fmall Rivers which empty themfelves into 
 the J aick^; which River is alfo in moft places bordered with Woods unto its En- 
 trance into the Cajpian Sea. And therefore the Inhabitants may well be named Cajfa- 
 chy Horda, or Wild people, as the name imports : They fowe no fort of Corn, their 
 chief Food being Horfe-fkfh and Mares milk > which is alfo common to divers other 
 Nations of the Tartars. 
 
 On the North of Cajfachy Horda dwell the Kalmukg Tartars, if fuch a life as they 
 lead may be called dwelling. The Country they inhabit deferves a better People, the 
 Land abounding with all things necefTary for a Comfortable fublillence. This Coun- 
 try hath llore of Sables, Marterns, Black Foxes, Squerrils, and feveral other forts of 
 Furs, which they Exchange with the Ruffes for Aqua-vita, Mead, Tobacco, and other 
 Commodities. This Country hath fome Towns, as Siberia, the Head of a Province 
 of the fame name, and lumen, both which the Ruffes have gained from them : Ouffba^ 
 Wadle, Sellora, Lucomoria, which latter place, they fay, is lituated upon a Cold Sea. 
 But Onffl)a is a midland Town, 500 miles from Caffan which is near the Volga. The 
 Kalmukgs are accounted good Souldiers, being kept in continual Exercife by the Muf- 
 covitcs on the one fide, the Nagoyans and Cajfachy-Hnrda on the other. Their un- 
 married Women do not only accompany the Men unto the Wars, but are laid to be 
 little inferiour unto the Men in Skill and Valour, (hooting almoft as llrongly and dex- 
 teroufly as the men, from whom they cannot be diltinguilhed by their Garb, being ap- 
 parelled and riding much after the fame manner : Both Men and Women in all their 
 Expeditions feldom carry along with them fewer than 5 or 6 Horfes apiece. I can- 
 not precifcly determine what their Religion is, but I do perceive by Converfe with 
 them, that they have a more favourable opinion of the Chrillians than of the Mahume- 
 tans, or of fome of their fellow Ethniclq ; for if I millake not, they are Heathens, I not 
 being able to difcern among them any Religious Worfhip, excepting fome kind of 
 Adoration which they pay unto the Sun and Moon. They have a very peculiar kind 
 of Diet =, for befides Horfc-rlefh, which is a great Dainty, they fcrnple not to eat 
 Snakes, Adders, Foxes, and indeed even Carrion of divers forts of Creatures, fuch 
 Food as to Europeans would be intolerable, even in the greateft Famine. They wear 
 a kind of Caps or Hatts which are called by the Mufcovites, Coulpackgs, open before 
 and behind, with broad Brims on each fide. And thereupon thev are called by the 
 Other Tartars, Calmu^es, 
 
 EJaftward 
 
r 1 'I 
 
 upon the Euxine and Cafpian Seas. 115 
 
 Eaftward from thefe Calmukgs, inclining unto the South towards China, live the 
 Turgeacbians, fb named from their chief Town, which fome call Turgeacb, others Jur- 
 gench : Of which Countrey I cannot fay fo much as concerning the former, having 
 never been therein but once •, for in the Year 16 20. there being great Wars in Jurge- 
 acb, between the Chan or King, and the Myrfa his Son - , fome of the Nagoylar tars 
 hearing thereof, invaded the Countrey, who whilft they were united, durft not peep 
 out of their own Borders, the Jurgeachians being a numerous and warlike People. 
 Thefe Nagoys were all Volunteers, who went without any Command from their own 
 Prince, or Allowance from the Mufcovites, without whofe content by mutual Agree- 
 ment they are not permitted to war. The news of their Expedition being brought 
 unto Aftracan, the Voyvod, who had not long before made a League with the Jurge- 
 achians, fent out Allye ( I fuppofe his true Name was AH or Hali ) Myrfa a Tartarian 
 Prince, with a 1000 of his own Subjects, and 500 Ruffes, all Horfe. We were 20 
 days marching, before we came unto the Borders of Jurgeach from Aftracan ; whence 
 we proceeded 10 days journey, the Countrey through which we paffed being mifera- 
 bly ravaged by the aforefaid Nagoys. At the end of which 30 days by a reafonable 
 Computation, 'twas judged we were diftant from Aftracan at lealt a 1 000 miles ; 
 about which time we overtook them in the Valley of Ougcgura, having got from the 
 Jurgeachians an innumerable company of Cattle of divers forts, as Horfe, Kine, Camels 
 and Sheep. We took all their Booty from them \ and as a further punifhment for 
 their Riot, took away their own fupernumerary Horfes, leaving them only a Horfe a 
 Man for to convey them home. Then Ally Myrfa divided the Spoil, half he beftowed 
 upon thofe who did accompany him, and fent the remainder for a Prefent unto the 
 FoyiW,returning nothing unto the JurgeacbiansJoeczufe they were taken from Thieves'* 
 In the mean while the Prince of Jurgeach in a piteht Battel overthrew his Father, took 
 him Prifoner, put out both his Eyes, and caufed himfelf to be Crowned King. He 
 had a younger Brother,whom fearing that in time he might cccafion fome infurrection, 
 he gave Command unto fome of his Creatures, that they mould ftrangle him, and 
 bring his Head : But divers of the Nobles, by whofe means he obtained the Soveraign- 
 ty, gaining intelligence thereof would not permit his Order to be put in execution , 
 but feizing on the Child, fent him unto the Emperour diMufcovy, with whom he re- 
 mained when I was laft at Aftracan. 
 
 But I muft return from the Jurgeachians unto the Caragans, whom I have left be- 
 hind, and they do more immediately refer unto my promife, which was to give ait 
 Account of all the Nations and Countreys incompailing the Caftian Sea. 
 
 The Countrey of the Caragans occupies moft of that vaft fpace, which intercedes 
 Let ween the River Yeikg and the Dominions of the Ombegs, or Tartars of Bouchara^ 
 and their Territory furrounds the North-Eaft corner of the Cafpian Sea, proceeding 
 Southwards unto the River Jaxartes i and fome Hords of the faid People do inhabit 
 between the faid River and the Oxm, which divides the Tartars of Bocbara and the 
 Caragans, from the Perfians and the Tartars of Balk. This Countrey of the Caragans 
 is very defart and barren the People miferably poor their Houfes are wretched Huts, 
 the greateft part under ground they are very tawny and ill-favour' d => their Habitati- 
 ons are fcatt'red, fcarcely deferving the Name of Villages : And they have no Town, 
 as I have been informed, beiides Preefflannes, which is fituated on the South-fide of the 
 Jaxartes, near the Caftian Sea ■■> which whilft I dwelt in Aftracan, was by furprize ta- 
 ken by the Coffackj h but they had little caufe to brag of their Victory, finding little 
 booty therein ■■> and the Caragans gathering together, beat them out with great lofs of 
 Men, forcing them to retire into an Ifland 2 or 3 leagues from the Land which they 
 poffefs unto this day, no Nation being able, or elfe not caring to un-neft them, al- 
 though Tartar s 3 Perfians and Mufcovites , do continually furfer by their Depreda- 
 tions. 
 
 Towards the Eaft and by South of the Caragans, dwell the Tartars of Bocbara, who 
 are by divers called Tusbegs. The Countrey which they polfefs is better watred, and 
 more fertile than moft of the preceeding, and there is great refort of Merchants from 
 divers Parts unto them, efpecially Perfians, Mufcovites, and feveral Nations of Indians? 
 as Moguls , Boutans, with many others, whofe Names I cannot recolledh I have been 
 
 C QJ atfb 
 
n6 A Description of the Countrey s which border 
 
 alfo told, That the Chinefes do fcnletimes trade with them. I am perfwaded, that 
 this is the famed Kingdom of Cat aye ■■> for the Catayans are a fort of Tartars , and I 
 know no other Tartars between this Countrey and China. Caragan lieth from them 
 to the North-Weft \ Vrgenfic due North } China to the Eaft -, the Tartars of Balk^ to 
 the South and the Perfvtns South and by Weft -, and the Cajpian Sea duely Weft. 
 They are almoft continually in Wars with the Perftans. 
 
 The next Countrey I am to defcribe is Per fa, in which Land I was never,excepting 
 once, in that part thereof which borders upon the Comukgs '•> but I have converfed 
 with feveral Perfian Merchants at Ajiracan, who came by Shipping from Gilan^ which 
 when the Wind is very fair and good, they fail in 2 or 3 days and nights. They 
 wear Turbants like the Turks, and fo do thtBouchars. Therefore not having feen 
 much of Perfa, nor having fufficiently informed my lelf concerning it, 1 (hall pals 
 through it unto the Cotmik^s Land, of which I have obtained more perfect knowledge 
 both by War and Traflkk. This Countrey is bounded on the South by Pcrfia \ on 
 the Eaft by the Cafpian Sea ; Weft ward by Circajjtas -and on the North by the River 
 of lumeine \ on which ftands a Town of the fame Name, from which unto Cbabamate^ 
 the moft Northerly Habitation of Pcrfia, is 600 miles. A great part of this Countrey, 
 efpecially Weft ward, is very mountainous •, I could never learn where it doth exa&ly 
 terminate. I have been in four of their Towns : The firft is Tarkge, where Gildar, 
 whom they own for their Prince, doth ordinarily refide. The fecond is Verheine, in 
 the Mountains. The third Vcrevena, in the fame mountainous Tract. The fourth 
 Koffa, upon a River of the fa-me Name, not far from the place where it empties it 
 1 felf into rhe Caffian Sea. Thefe Comukes are proper Men and very couragious ••> and 
 that which makes them more daring and adventurous than moft Tartars^ is the good- 
 nefs of their Horfes, and the advantage of their Arms, both offenfive and defeniive j 
 for they feldom engage in Wars without Helmets, Jacks of Steel, Shirts of Mail, and 
 Targets, which excepting thofe times wherein they right, hang behind their backs, 
 being very light, and not very large, and therefore r.ot cumberfome. They have, 
 as other Tartars, both Bows and Cymetars , and withal never go without Lances, 
 which they ufe with great ftrength and dexterity. In their Apparel they differ little 
 from the Circaffians •, but as for Religion, they are generally Mabumetans, and their 
 Language is in fubftance the fame with other Tartars, their vicinity unto the Perftans, 
 Muscovites and Sbeercaffes, having fomewhat dilguifed it. The Countrey they inhabit 
 abounds with Wood •, part of it is hilly, with fmall pleafant Valleys between the Hil- 
 locks i and in fome places, efpecially towards Perfa, and thence into the Land, it hath 
 many great and almoft inacceilible Mountains, by reafon of their heighth and fteep- 
 nefs. This Land was reduced under the Government of the Ruffes many years ago, 
 after the enfuing manner : Evan VafpVywicb being Czar or Emperour of Ruffia, after 
 he had taken Caffan and Jftracan> fent part of his Army into Circafjia, where they 
 took in Tumeine. Another Body entred the Comukgs Countrey, and poflefled them- 
 felves ofVerevena, Verheine, Tarkce and Koffa. The Ruffe Emperour conftituted a Voy- 
 vod, whom he ordred to relide in Tarkse y and left with him iooco Men =, he ordered 
 alfo at the fame time another confiderable Brigade to ftay at Coif a, where he left a 
 great number of Boats and other VefTels, who had brought fupplies of Men and Pro- 
 visions from Mofco, and other Parts of his Dominions. And having, as he appre- 
 hended, fecured his new Conquefts, he returned unto Mofco : Immediately after his 
 retreat, the Comukes gath'red their whole Force, and let down before the Town of 
 Tarkge, which after a vigorous refiftance they took, and in it with the Voyvod, feveral 
 Officers of divers Nations, whom with the common Souldiers they fold unto the Cir- 
 cafpans, Tartars, and other neighb'ring Nations, fo that few were ever afterwards re- 
 covered. From Tarkge they marched unto Koifa, which by the inftrudtion of Cap^ 
 rives, they did pretty regularly befiege and aflault, and after {bme repulfes took it by 
 ftorm, killing all the Rujfes, excepting fuch as eicaped in the Ships and Boats which 
 lay before the Town. The Ruffe Emperour being fpeedily informed of thefe Succefc 
 fes, immediately raifed a great Army, with which he ordred all the Coffackj between 
 the Don and Volga, unto the River of Tumeine, to joyn his Forces, and ailift them, in 
 order unto the recovery of what he had loft, and utter extirpation of the Comukgs : 
 Who hearing how highly, the Czar was exafperated, and how great a Force was ready 
 to invade them, they began to be folicitous about the Event -, and having confulted 
 
 to- 
 
upon the Euxine and Cafpian Seas. 117 
 
 together, agreed to make fome kind of fubmiffion, and Cue for pardon and peace. 
 Whereupon they Cent Ambaffadors unto Tnmeine, where the Ruffe Army was encamp- 
 ed i and after a Treaty with the Czars Plenipotentiaries, they agreed upon thefe Ar- 
 ticles, That the Comukgs mould reftore the Towns they had taken, and aid the Empe- 
 rour with fuch a number of Souldiers, as he mould require, againft any Enemy what- 
 focver i whereunto their Heads being fworn, they have inviolably obferved the Agree- 
 ment unto this day. But it's time we take our leave of Gildar, Prince of Terki, and 
 his Comukes, and proceed into Sbercajfen Land, part of which, as I hinted before, lyes 
 upon the Black Sea, and extends it felf unto the Cafpian. 
 
 This fide of Circajfta which borders upon the Cajpian Sea, is a very plentiful Coun- 
 trey j and as for Filh, it is fo wonderfully plentiful, that in Tnmeine you may ordina- 
 rily purchafe a good Sturgeon for two pence, and fometimes for a penny ■■, a moft pro- 
 digious quantity of Fi(h being taken in the River of the IVeefira, and about the Ifland 
 of Cbekeinc, which is off at Sea not far from Tnmeine. On the main Land, over 
 againft this Fifhery, 4 miles above the River of 7cr%, there is a great Well, made by 
 a Spring, which falls from a Rock, on the fide of a great Hill, and immediately fills 
 this little Lake,which whether it is Natural or Artificial, I know not. The Water of 
 this Lake is fo fcalding hot, that the Fifhers flinging in their Sturgeon or other Filh, it 
 is in a ftiort time boyled, as if over a fire, the heat being 10 intenfe, that no Man can 
 detain his Hand in it for a moment i from which ftrange Quality it derives its Name, 
 being called by the Ruffes, Goracba Cohda, or the Scalding Well. 
 
 I (hall conclude my Difcourfe with a fhort Account of the Little Nagoy, or of that 
 part thereof which confines upon the Cajpian for all that fpace between Tnmeine and 
 Aihacan, is by many afcribed unto the Nagoy Tartars. I did before declare, That the 
 Little Nagoy is for the" moft part a wide wafte Defart, the worft of which is all that 
 Tradt which lyeth between Tnmeine and Afiracan. Thefe Tartars have no Town but 
 only Affboxva, which is not properly theirs, though lying in their Countrey, being 
 poflefled by the Turks. 
 
 There is a fort of People in this Countrey, whom the Tartars call Sigakgs ; I could 
 never learn what their Language is, or from what Place or Nation they proceed i nor 
 could I underftand after what manner they live, whether they have any Religion, or 
 Civil Government. Their chief Subfiftence is what they gain from the Tartars ; for 
 they gather fometimes 2 or 3000, and rob the fmaller Hords of the Tartars, and thofe 
 which are moft remote from help. But fometimes the Tartars dilcovering the place of 
 their Retreat or Rendevous, furround them with their Carts, and then fall in, cut 
 them all off, never giving Quarter unto any •, no Crime being Co leverely puniftied 
 amongft the Tartars as Thievery ■, which makes me apprehend, that thefe Sigakes are 
 fome of their own People, who formerly deferted them upon (bme extraordinary oc- 
 cafion : But whatfoever is the reafon , they do moft irreconcileably hate each the 
 other. 
 
 The moft noted Places on that fide the Little Nagoy, which regards the Cajpian Sea, 
 and lye all along the Coaft from Tnmeine to Afiracan, are Sbeerloha Teare ( where I 
 was firft taken Prifoner by the Tartars ) Peremetkg, Arfi Bath, Moyackge, Bealla Ojhera 
 Bajhmacbakg , Kaboylly Macbakofska , Cbofioveay , and fo over the Volga unto 
 Afiracan. 
 
 And to conclude all, I (hall here enumerate all the Places on the Coaft near Afira- 
 can, which have Names that are coniiderable for Havens, Trade, Filhing, or any other 
 remarkable Circumftance. Soteeza Bockgra, Vcnflorva Cojfa, Beerulska Cojfa , JLwan* 
 jhoska CojJ'a, Seamme Bogoroffe, Tnjfdcleoff Lapateene, Cbas\a Cojfa, Crofna Bogore, Cock? 
 lotuka Cojfa, Orvarska Cojfa, Comajhas^aCoffa, Colloberinska Cojfa, Cocktabotv, Buffans* 
 
 Lapaten, Kara Bujjan i which laft place is not far-from Sbeene Mare, which I have 
 formerly mentioned. 
 
 1 cannot fo exaclly tell the Circumference of the Cajpian, as of the Black Sea, ha- 
 ving been only on the North and Weft fide but howfoever I lhall from what I have 
 Teen and learnt from Experienced perfons, be enabled to approach very near unto the 
 Truth. 
 
 The Diftance between Afiracan and the Jaick^, is 500 miles i from thence unto the 
 Confines of Bocbara 500 miles: From Jaxartes to Perfia, and thence unto Gilan is, ac- 
 cording unto my Information, 1 100 miies. From Gilan unto Koifa 500 miles ; From 
 
 (0^2/ thence 
 
 44 ' 
 
n8 A Defer iption of the Countries which border 
 
 thence unto Aftracan as much , in all, 3 1 00 miles. But if any perfon Qiould endeavoui: 
 by Land to Travel round this Sea, or in a Voyage by Sea follow the Coaft, he would 
 make at leaft a Thoufond miles more : for this Sea is full of great Gulphs, Bays, and 
 broken ground ; fo that the Calculation I make, is upon a direct paflage by Sea, fup- 
 pofe from Aftracan to Gilanfcom thence to the Oxus ,from the Oxus to the great North- 
 Eaft Bay, into which the River Jem falls, which is full of Iflands and broken Grounds, 
 Shelves, Sand and Shallow Water , and from thence back to Aftracan. 
 
 Having prefented your Lordfhip with a (hort but true Account of thofe Countries 
 encompalling and lying between the two forementioned Mediterranean Seas, I (hall no 
 lefs briefly and faithfully declare by what Accidents I came unto this Knowledge : 
 which coft me fo dear, that I fuppofe the moft inquifitive perfon would not purchafe 
 the gratification of his Curiohty at a far lefs Expence of time and trouble, than I have 
 imployed (though often againft my will J in my Travels and Enquiries. 
 
 I was born in Ireland, yet of Englifb Extract : My Family Noble, but my Eftate not 
 eorrefponding with my Quality, being ambitious, and withal naturally inclined to fee 
 Forraign Countries, I hoped to Raife my Fortune by my Sword. After I left Ireland, 
 before 1 had been long in England, an opportunity prefenting it felf, I engaged in the 
 Service of the King of Sweden, who had then W ars with the Mufcovite j having given 
 fome Confiderable proofs of my Courage, I was gradually raifed unto a Conliderable 
 Command •, but being engaged too far in a Body of the Enemies, I was unhappily taken 
 Prifbner by the Ruffes, and carried Prifoner unto Plefcow, then in their poflellion, ha- 
 ving at the fame time Arrears due unto me from the Swede above 5000 Dollars. The 
 Swedes taking no care for my Enlargement, being willing, I fuppofe, to fave fo great 
 a Summe of Money, as at my Return I ftiould have challenged : after Three years clofe 
 Imprifonment, I was proffered Liberty by the Mufcovite, upon condition I would faith- 
 fully ferve him againft all his Enemies •, whercunto affenting, I was fent unto Mofcow, 
 and there before the Chancellor fworn a Tolmack^, and preferred unto a Command lit- 
 tle inferiour unto what I enjoyed before. And the Poles advancing towards Mofcon? 
 with a great Army, fearing left I mould go over unto them, I was Tent unto Aftracan, 
 where I remained 10 years, being continually Employed againft the tartars and Circaf- 
 fians. By which means I came to know Pettigor, Sneefnagor, Shadgore, Cabardye, and 
 the Great and Little Nagoy, the Comukes, the Tartars of Caff an, the Kalmukgs, Caffacby 
 Horda. t Caragans, Vngenjh and Vsbeg, Tartars. During which Wars, I conflicted with 
 great difficulties and hardftiip ; In making long Journies, faring hardly : Nor was it 
 a fmall labour to make floates in order unto our paffing over the great Rivers I have 
 mentioned, to fay nothing of the Danger. Befides, we run great hazards in our Jour- 
 neying over thofe wafte wide howling Defarts, which on every fide furrounded usi fre- 
 quently wanting provifions, and fometimes Guides ; fo that had we failed never fo 
 little in our Conjectures, we had all perifhed. After Ten years hard Service, in my 
 Return frrom Convoying Sbollobofe Knez into Sbercaffen Land, I was taken Prifoner 
 by the Tartars of the Little Nagoy, and by them carried unto Affowa upon the Mouth 
 of the Tana or Von. There I was fould unto a Precopenfian Tartar, who carried me 
 along with him towards Crim: But upon the (hallow Waters I very happily made my 
 Efcape. I had little Knowledge of the Country, but having formerly underftood by 
 our Coffacfy at Aftracan, that great Bodies of the fame name, mortal Enemies unto the 
 Tartars, dwelt upon the Ncpper not far beyond Crim -> by the help of the Sun and Stars, 
 I journeyed due Weft many days without any difaftrousAdventure,until I found themi 
 who gave me a very kind reception : In this efcape I traverfed almoft the whole Defart 
 of Ingile and Vnguk. Vorofensty who then Commanded all the Coffacks upon the N(p- 
 per, immediately made me a Posfafneke, from which time for the fpace of almoft two 
 years, I did accompany them in divers Expeditions, in which we vifited moft of thofe 
 Countries which lye upon the Black Sea, to the no (mall vexation and lofs of the In- 
 habitants. We kept a Correfpondence with the Coffacks u P on the Von., and frequently 
 aflrlted each other. And being all Foot,and the Country exa&Iy level, we travelled 
 furrounded with Wagons (which they call a Tabor ) fox fear of the Tartars who 
 often fet upon us, but were as often repulfed, we being well accommodated with 
 r ire-Arms and fmall Field-pieces, which the 7 art ars do exceedingly fear, and will not 
 ordinarily attempt dofely,unlefs they have greatly the Odds in Number. But at length 
 
 it 
 
A Defer if t ion of the Countries ^c. up 
 
 it was my ill Fortune between the Nepper and the Von to be again taken by the Tartars, 
 and by them carried into Crim, where I lived long in great mifery, and was at length 
 fould unto a Timariot Spahi living in Amdoule^ {Anatolia or Afia minor) with Whom 
 I lived 5 years, but in more eafie fervitude than among the 'tartars. And to make my 
 fervice lets irkfome, my Mafter beftowed on me a Wmachian Woman, whom I received 
 for my Wife, though without the ufual Solemnities of Marriage, which are pradtiled 
 among Chriftians : Understanding at length that a Lord AmbafTador was refident at 
 Confiantinople in behalf of the King of Great Brittain, and to manage the Affairs of the 
 Englijb Nation in Twkgy, I prevailed with my Mafter, whofe Favour I had gained to 
 grant me my freedom, together with my Wives, if I fhould procure an hundred Dollars. 
 Whereupon he difmifled me in the company of a Turk^ his Friend,who upon my humble 
 fupplication unto your Lordmip receiving the forementioned Sum, did in the behalf of 
 his Friend before the Cady make me free,and leave the Woman alfo at my Difpofal. At 
 the fame time I very happily met with fome Vallachian Gentlemen,who were fent on a 
 MefTage from their Vayvod unto the Grand Signior, They gladly received my Woman, 
 and took her along with them, promifmg upon their Return into their own Country, 
 to Keftore her unto her Parents. 
 
 Now that I may fully fatisHe your Lordfhip, that I had really vifited all thofe Coun- 
 tries which I have mentioned, I befeech your Lordfhip let your Interpreter try me in 
 thofe Languages wherein he is- skilled \ and as for others wherewith he is not acquaint- 
 ed, I am ready to converfe with any of thofe Nations whom I pretend to know. For 
 although I have never converfed much with Books, yet my great Travels accompanied 
 with a pretty good Memory, will fufficiently Qualifie me to pais through the Countries 
 I (hall hereafter mention. 
 
 To begin my Progrefs from Confiantinople, I can pafs over from Scutery, and thence 
 by the help of my Turfylb Language pafs through all Anatolia > Thence leaving Armenid 
 on my right hand, and having the Blacky Sea on the left, go through Georgia, MingreUia, 
 Abajfa, and SbercaJJ'en Land with the fame Tongue, and another, which with little va- 
 riation is common unto them all. Thence into the Comukgs Country, who are a fort 
 of Tartars, and do agree with others of the fame name in fpeech, as indeed molt Tar- 
 tars do only they who are Mabumetans, and converfe much with the Turkj, ufe divers 
 Arabic!^ and TurkJjTj words whereunto the Heathen Tartars are ftrangers : From Co- 
 mukgs Land I can pafs into Perfia, but I am not fo well acquainted with their Country 
 and Language, as I have elfewhere acknowledged. Therefore to return unto Confian- 
 tinople, I can proceed from thence unto Romella, or Romania, through Wallachy, Bealla 
 Horda, Crim, the Great Vefart I have fo often mentioned of IngeU and Vngub, the Little 
 Nagoy, Co over the Volga unto Afiracan \ thence through the Great Nagoy, and leaving 
 the Caftian on my Right hand into the Caragans Country,' and fo through Boghar into 
 Perfia. I can alfo by my knowledg of the Languages peculiar unto the following Coun- 
 tries traverfe all Ireland, England, Norway, Sweden, Finland, Leifland, Poland, Rufsia, 
 Mordrva, Sbcremejfa, Caff an, Kalmukgs Land,CaJJacky Horda, Turgerxh, and leaving China 
 on the left hand through Bocbara into Perfia. 
 
 And now, Sir, nothing remains, But that I make moft humble and hearty acknow- 
 ledgment of your great Generofity and Chriftian Charity, in delivering a Stranger out 
 of a Captivity, wherein I had Otherwife continued without hope of feeing my Friends 
 or Country. And were I as expert at my Pen, as I have heretofore been at managing 
 a Sword, I would by Conligning my Travels to Writing, leave behind me a lafting 
 Monument of your Fame : But being for want of Learning and by long Difufe of my 
 Mother f'ongue rendred unfit for fuch a Work, I (hall wherefoever I come proclaim 
 your Worthinefs, and continually pray unto the Omnipotent GOD to return youc 
 Kindnels into your Bofome a Thoufand fold. And lhall ever remain, during Life ? 
 
 Tour Faithful Slave, 
 
 Aftraeait.- 
 
 FINIS. 
 
Books fold by Mofes Pitt, at the Angel in St. Paub 
 
 Church- Yard* 
 
 Folio. 
 
 THcfes Theologies variis Temporibus 
 in Academia Sedanenfi edits, & ad 
 diiputandum propofita?. Authore 
 Ludovico -de Blanc verbi Divini 
 Miniftro & Theologian profefTbre. In qua 
 exponitur fententia Doctorum Eccleiia? 
 Romana?, & Proteftantium. 1675. Price 
 2 os. 
 
 Dr. Henry Hammond?*, Sermons. 1^75. 
 
 A Table of Ten thoufand Square Num- 
 bers, by John Fell, D.D. ftitcht, 1 s. 6 d. 
 
 Tuba Sentoro-Phonica, or the Speaking- 
 Trumpet ■■> being an Inftrument of Excel- 
 lent Ufe both at Sea and Land => by Sir 
 Samuel Morland. Price of the Bock 1 s. of 
 the Inftrument 2 /. 5 s. 
 
 Articles and Rules for the Government 
 of His Majefties Forces by Land, during 
 this prefent War, 1673. 1 /. 6 d. 
 
 Bailii opus Hilt. Chronol. vet. & Nov. 
 Teft. 1663. 
 
 Becmanni Exercitationes Theol. Contra 
 Socinianos. 1643. 
 
 An Hiftory of the Church, by Alex. 
 Petrey. 1 6 62, 
 
 Catalogus Librorum in RegionibusTranf- 
 marinis nuper Editorum. 
 
 The Hiftory of Don <j^«'x<rte. 1675. 10 x. 
 The Commentaries and Life of Julius 
 C<efar y Containing his Wars in Gallia, and 
 the Civil Wars betwixt him and Pompey i 
 with the Notes of Clement Edmonds. id']']. 
 16 s. 
 
 Gjhtarfi* 
 
 Thefaurus Numifmatum Antiquorum 
 cum Commentariis JacOifelii. 1677. 2 ox. 
 
 Joannis Bona (Cardinalis) Opera Theo- 
 logica. 1677. 16 s. 
 
 Georg. Hicks Sermon before the Lord 
 Mayor, on 1 Cor. 10. 13. 1677. 6 d. 
 Dr. Pell's Introduction to Algebra. 7 x. 
 Nicb. Mercatoris Logarithmo-Technia, 
 five methodus conftruendi Logarithmos, 
 16 6$. 8c Jac. Gregorii Exercitationes Geo- 
 metrical, 166%. 2 x. 
 
 Love only for Love fakg, a Dramatick 
 Romance, by Sir Richard Fanjhaw. 3 x. 
 6d. 
 
 Mori Enchiridion Metaphyficum, 1671. 
 10 s. 
 
 Snellii Typhis Batavus, Ludg.Bat.1624. 
 5* 
 
 Petrus Paavo de 0(Tibus,Amft. 1633. 5 /. 
 Dr. Thomas Jacomb } on the Eighth 
 Chapter of the Romans. 8 s. 
 
 A Letter from a Gentleman of the Lord 
 Howard's Retinue, to his Friend in Low 
 don, dated at Fez. Nov. 1. 1 670. 6 d. 
 
 Dr. Wallis Opera Mechanica, 2 2 /. 
 
 Hieronymi Mercurialis de Arte Gymna- 
 ftica Libri fex cum riguris, 1672. 
 
 Pignorii Menfa Ifaica, 16 6 p. 
 
 Pharmacopeia5 Hagienfis, i6 59 . 
 
 ?Auguftana, 1672. 
 J. Crellii Ethica Arijlotelica & Chriftia* 
 na, 1 6 s. 
 
 Joan. Binchii Melliftcium Theologicum , 
 16 s. 
 
 Theod. Kettyingii D.M. Spicilegium Ana- 
 tomicumy Continens Obfervationum Ana- 
 tomicarum rariorum centuriam unam nec 
 non Ofteogeniam fcetuum in qua quid 
 cuique olliculo fingulis accedat Meniibus, 
 quidve decedat be in eo per varia immute- 
 tur tempora, accuratiflime oculis fubjiciun- 
 tur, 167 o. 
 
 Fortunius Licetus de Monftris ex recen- 
 fione Gerardi Blafii, qui Monftra quajdam 
 Nova & Rariora ex recentiorum Scriptis 
 addidit. Editio noviflima Iconibus illuitra- 
 ta. 1665. 
 
 Comfleat Clarl^, Containing the beft 
 
 Prefidents, 1677. 12 s. 
 
 Holy F aft of Lent defended, t66-j. 6 d, 
 A Loolqng-Glafs for all New Converts, 
 
 i66y. 1 x. 
 
 There is newly published two Recanta- 
 tion-Sermons , (Preached at the French- 
 Church in the Savoy) by two Converted 
 Romanifls, Mr. De la Motte, late Preacher of 
 the Order of the Carmelites j and Mr. Ve 
 Luzanzy, Licentiate in Divinity i wherein 
 the Corrupt Doctrines of the Church of 
 Rome are laid open and confuted. Both 
 Printed in French and Englijh. 
 
 Alio two other Sermons, one Preached 
 before the King at White-Hal^ Jan. 30. 
 16 j 6. by Henry Bagjhatv, D. D. the other 
 before the Lord Mayor, Vecemb.19. 16 7 5. 
 by John Cook. 
 
 A Modeft Survey of the moft material 
 things in a Difcourfe, called the Naked 
 Truth, 6 d. 
 
 A New Dictionary, French and Englijb^ 
 byGuyMiege. 1677. 
 Marflial Turennes Funeral Sermon. i^77» 
 
Jer. Horrocii. AngJ. Opufc. Ajlron. 1 6 7 3 . f 
 An Historical Vindication of the Church of 
 
 England in Point of Schiftn, by ax Ro.Treifden. , 
 The kft Siege otMilbicbt, Sept. 5. 1676. \ 
 Dr. Tillotfon s Sermon before the King, Apr. 
 
 18. i^75- 
 
 Dr. IVilkins's Three Sermons before the 
 King, March 7. 1669. and Feb. 7. 1670. 
 .Dr. Jo. tillotfon' s Rule of Faith, 1676. 
 
 OVxavo. 
 
 Ilhet ores feleVii , Demetrius Phalerius^Tiberius 
 Rhetor, Anonymus Sophijla, Severus Alexandrinus 
 Grece et Lat. per Tho.Gale. Soc. Coll. M. 1 67 6. 
 
 A Scriptural Catechifm, according to the 
 Method obferved by the Author of the Whole 
 Duty of Mm, 1676. 
 
 Howe, of delighting in God ; of the BleiTed- 
 nefs of the Righteous, Two Vol. 
 
 Art of Speaking, by M. du Fort-Roy 0.1.167 6. 
 
 ADifcouife of Local Motion, undertaking to 
 demonltrate the Laws of Motion, and withal 
 ro prove, that of the feven Rules delivered by 
 Mr.Ves Cartes on this Subje&.he hath miltaken 
 Six: EnglHhed out of French, 1671. is. 
 
 The Hiftory of the late Revolution of the 
 Empire of the Great Mogol, with a defcription 
 of the Countrey, in two Volumes. 7 s. 
 
 The Hiftory of the Conqueft of the. Empire 
 of China by the Tartars, 1671. 4 s. 
 
 Myjlery of Iniquity unvailed in a Difcourfe, 
 wherein is held forth the oppolition of the Do- 
 ctrine, Worlhip, and Practices of the Roman 
 Church, to the Nature,Deligns,and Characters 
 of the ChritUan Faith, by Gilbert Burnet. 1 s. 
 
 A Collection of Popifh Miracles wrought by 
 Popifti Saints, both during their lives,and after 
 their death \ collected out of their own Au- 
 thors, 1 s._ 
 
 Treatife of the Holy Communion, 1677. 
 2 s. 6 d. 
 
 Tbeod.Turqueti,Dc Mayerne, T>e Arthritide,Ac- 
 cejferunt ejufdem Confilia aliquot Medicinalia, x s. 
 
 A new way of curing the Gout, and Obfer- 
 vations and Practices of relating to Women in 
 Travel, 3 s. 
 
 Elenchi Motuum Nuperorum in Anglia pars 
 tertia, five Mot us Compofiti. Vbi G. Monchii e 
 Scotia progrejfus, nec won Aug. Caroli Secundi in 
 Angliam Reditus ejufdemq-, Regie Majefi. per 
 Decennium gejla fideliter enarrantur, 1676. 
 
 Gualteri Needham Difputatio Anatomica de 
 Formato Fcetu. 1677. 3/. 6 d. 
 
 Buxtorfius's Epitome of his Hebrew Gram- 
 mar Englithed,by 'John Davis y 1658. 1 s. 6 d. 
 
 The Fortunate Foo/,or the Life oiDx.Cenudo, 
 a Spanijh Romance, 1670. 2 s. 
 
 The Adventures of Mr. 7".S.an Englifb Mer- 
 chant, taken Prifoner by the Tw/y of Argiers^ 
 
 with a defcription of that Kingdom, and the 
 Towns and Places thereabouts, 1670. 1 s. 6 d. 
 
 Contemplations on Mortality, 1670. 1 
 
 A Difcourfe written to a Learned Frier, by 
 Mr. Des FourneilHsjh.ew'mg that the Syftcme of 
 Mr. Des Cartes, and particularly his Opinion 
 concerning Brutes, does contain nothing dan- 
 gerous 5 and that all he hath written of both, 
 feems to have been taken out of the Firit Chap- 
 ter oiGenefis : To which is annexed the Syfteme 
 General of the Cartefian Philofophy, i s. 
 
 The R. elation of a Voyage into Mauritania in 
 Africl^, by Roland Frejus of MarfeiUes, by the 
 French King's Order, 1666 , to Muley Arxid 
 King of Taffaletta^c. with a Letter in Anfwer 
 to divers Queftions concerning their Religion, 
 Manners',^. 1671. 1 s. 6 d. 
 
 A Genuine Explication of the Vifions in the 
 Book of Revelation^ A.B.Peganius. 1671. 2. s* 
 
 Prodromus .to a D JTertation concerning So- 
 lids naturally contained within Solids, laying a 
 foundation for the rendring a rational account, 
 both of the Frame and the feveral Changes of 
 the Mafs of the Earth, as alio the various Pro- 
 ductions of the fame. By Nich. Steno, 1671. 
 is. 3d. 
 
 Bafihus Valentinus, of Natural and Super- 
 natural things, alio of the firft Tincture, Root, 
 and Spirits of Metals and Minerals, how the 
 fame are Conceived,Generated. Brought forth, 
 Changed and Augmented : Whereunto is ad- 
 ded Frier Bacon of the Medicine or Tincture of 
 Antimony, Mr. John Ifaac Holland his Works 
 of Saturn, and Alexander Van Suchten, of the 
 Secrets of Antimony,out of Dutch, 1671. 2 s. 
 
 The Poetical Hiltories , being a compleat 
 Collection of all the Stories necelTary for a 
 perfect underftanding of the Greek and Latin 
 Poets, and other Ancient Authors,written Ori- 
 ginally in French^ by the Learned Jefaite P.Gal- 
 tmcbius. Now Englijhed and Enriched with 
 Obfervations concerning the Gods worfhipped 
 by out Anceltors in this Iiland, by the Phoene- 
 cians and Syrians in Afia ; with many ufeful 
 Notes and occafional Proverbs, gathered out 
 of the beft Authors : Unto which are added 
 two Treatifes => One of the Curiofities of Old 
 Rome, and of the difficult Names relating the 
 Affairs of that City ; The other containing the 
 moil remarkable Hieroglyphicks of Egypt. The 
 Third Edition, with Additions. By Marias 
 D' Afligny,B.D. 3 s. 6 d. 
 
 An EJfay about the Origine and Virtues of 
 Gems,by the Honourable Robert Boyle, 1 s.6d. 
 Idem Lat. twelves, 1 s. 
 
 Sir Samuel MorlanePs Arithmetick, with fe- 
 veral ufeful Tables, and a Perpetual Almanack, 
 1673. 3/. 
 
 A Compleat Treatife of Chyrurgery, con- 
 taining Barktts Ghirm^sry. Mindcrrus of 
 
 Ehfeafes 
 
Difeafes Incident ro Camps and Fleets : With 
 a Chyrurgeon*s Chcft of Medicines and I/ijim- 
 ments^&c. 6 s. 
 
 Dr. Lower de corde. Amfter. \6"ji. 3 s. 
 
 Dr. Gren-s Anatomy of Vegetables, 1672. 
 2 s. 
 
 Crowd Elenchi Script, in Scripturam. 3/* 
 6d. 
 
 Eugelenus de Scorbuto. 
 
 Fred. Vcckeri Exercitationes Medicse. 
 
 Grotii via ad Pacem. 
 
 Alb, GentilU de Armis Pvomanis. 
 
 De Imperio. 
 
 De Legationibus. 
 
 De Nuptiis. 
 Hammond de Confirmatione. 
 Hugenii momenta Defultoria. 
 Parti Chronologia Sacra. 
 'Ihrujion de Refpiratione. 
 
 Mr. Boyle of Hidden Qualities of the Air 
 3gainrt Hobs, and of Attra&ion by Suclion, 
 2 s. 6 d. 
 
 Mr. Boyle of Effluviums of fire and flame, 
 and of the previoufnefs of Glafs. 3 /. 
 
 Memoires of Mr. Def-Ecotais, formerly ftiled 
 in the Church of Rome, The moft Venerable 
 Father Cajfianus of Pjra,Prieft and Preacher of 
 the Order of the Capucins \ or the Motives of 
 his Converfion. In English 2 s. In French 2 /. 
 In French and Englijh 4/. All Printed 1677. 
 
 Dr. Edward Stillingfleet, and Mr. Burnet Con- 
 ference, about Religion, at London, Apr. 3d. 
 j 6"] 6. with fome Gentlemen of the Church of 
 Rome. As alfo a Letter to a Deift in Anivver to 
 feveral Objedions againft the Truth and Au- 
 thority of Scripture. 1677. 
 
 Les Memoires De Madame la PrincefTe Ma- 
 rie Mancini Colonne G.Connetable duRoyaume 
 de Naples. 1677, 
 
 La vieet les A&ions Memorables de Lieut. 
 Amiral Michel de Ruyter, 1677. 5 s. 
 
 Duodecimo. 
 
 . Compendium Biblicum continens, Ex 
 23202. verficulis totius veteris Teftamenti, 
 Tantum veillculos 2285?. (non tamen inte- 
 gros ) in quibus omnes univerfi veteris E. voces, 
 tarn primitivx quam derivativa?, tarn Hebraic* 
 quam Chaldaicar Authore Jo. Leufden. 1673. 
 
 A Paradife of Delights, or an Elixir of Com- 
 forts offered to Believers jn two Difcourfes, the 
 firft on Heb.6.i7 J iS.thc fecond on jR.cwz.8.32. 
 By Robert Wyne. I /. 
 
 Grotii Sophompaneas. - 
 
 Gronovius in Livium. 
 
 Primrofe Ars Pharmaceutica. 
 
 SchookJiQ Pace. 
 
 Suetonius. 
 
 S waive A kali. 
 
 Severini Synopfis Chyrurgis. 
 
 Terentii Flores. 
 
 Trelcatii loci Communes. 
 
 Balduinus de Calceo 3c Nigronius de Caliga 
 Veterum. Acceflerunt ex g^Sept. Fl. Tertulliani, 
 CI. Salmafii & Alb. Rubenii Scriptis plurima 
 ejufdem Argument!, 1667. 
 
 Pauli Barbetti opera Chirurgica Anatomica, 
 1672. 
 
 Praxis Barbettiana Cum notis Fred. J)ecbgri 3 
 1669. 
 
 Ononis T'achenii' Hippocrates Chymicus a 
 1671. 
 
 Theodori Kerckringii D. M. Ccmmentarius in 
 Citrrum Triumphalem Antimonii Bafilii Valentini 
 a le latinitate donatum, 1671. 
 
 Jo. Pincieri M. D. ^Enignatum Libri Tres 
 cum folutionibus, 1655. 
 
 Francifci Redi Experimenta circa res diver- 
 lbs naturales,fpeciatim illas qua; cx Indiis adfe- 
 runtur, 1675. 
 
 Aldus Gellius. 
 
 Beflerfeldus Redivivus. 
 
 Her Is Wifdoms Tripos. 
 
 Wil\6ns Beauty of Providence. 
 
 FINIS. 
 
THE GETTY CENTER 
 LIBRARY