PRINT STYLES ON SHODDY MATERIAL CASSELLA COLOR COMPANY 182 and 184 Front Street, NEW YORK. Boston: 68 Essex Street. Philadelphia: 126 and 128 South Front Street. Providence: 64 Exchange Place. Atlanta: 47 North Pryor Street. Montreal: P. Q.: 86 <\ 88 Youville Square. 2833 Franklin Institute Library PHILADELPHIA Class. Book. ( 2 '..%..'/.. 6 .. 3 A ccessio?i..C.^.^f..3.C/..... REFERENCE GIVEN BY / / MANUFACTURE LYONNAISE DE MATIERES COLORANTES, LYONS. Works ”La Mouche”. LEOPOLD CASSELLA & C°, a.m.b.H., FRANKFORT o. Works at Mainkur near Frankfort o. M. PRINT STYLES ON SHODDY MATERIAL CASSELLA COLOR. COMPANY 182 AND 184 FRONT STREET NEW YORK BOSTON: 68 essex street PHILADELPHIA: 126 and 128 south front street PROVIDENCE: 64 exchange place ATLANTA: 47 north pryor street MONTREAL, P. Q.: 86 AND 88 YOUVILLE SQUARE. No 2833. Print Styles on Shoddy Material. The printing of shoddy materials, which during the last few years has acquired a great and constantly increasing importance, may be divided into two groups according to the method of working employed, viz: A. The Discharge Style and B. The Direct Print Style. The discharge style, the principal object of which is the imitation of white and coloured effect threads on a solid ground colour, has resulted from the Pigment style which yields similar effects by fixing white or coloured pigments on the fabrics by means of albumen or certain kinds of varnishes. Compared with this older method, the discharge style offers more particularly the advantage of better resistance in wearing, seeing that the patterns are not merely fixed mechanically on the surface of the fibre but are produced by discharging the solid bottom shade. The goods have on this account a much pleasanter handle than is the case with the old style and bear a much closer resemblance to woven fabrics. The direct print style imitates in a very satisfactory manner the appearance of medley-coloured fabrics of various designs by the direct printing of steam colours in narrow, dark cover patterns on a light coloured bottom, and has been adopted largely, more particularly for ladies’ dress materials. By a combination of direct printing and discharge printing, a still greater variety may be obtained; in this way pale, coloured effect threads may be produced on a medley-coloured bottom. NOTE Naphtylamine black is the scien- tific NAME OF THE COLOR KNOWN COMMERCIALLY AS ALIZARINE BLACK. the lanacyl Colors are known COMMERCIALLY AS ALIZARINE LANACYL Colors. A. The Discharge Style. Condition of the Raw Material. Goods intended for discharge printing should consist of as light- coloured shoddy as possible, because the white and coloured discharge effects will lack brightness if the shade of the raw material be too dark. In a like manner the goods should be free from burls as far as possible, because these become very pronounced after discharging and are apt to disturb the general effect. Production of the Dyeings. The goods are dyed in the customary manner by either the one-dip or two-bath method; for details we would refer to the customary methods of dyeing and in particular to the instructions for the dyeing of shoddy given in detail in our book on ’’The Dyeing of Unions”. Only the products enumerated below, which are easily dischargeable, come into consideration for the discharge style. In particular it is not admissible to stain the cotton warps with sumac and iron, even if the wool has been previously dyed with easily dischargeable dyestuffs, because this would impair the dischargeability of the cotton spun or woven together with the shoddy, and of the woollen surface of the goods. Special attention should be paid to a thorough rinsing and hydro- extracting of the goods after dyeing, because the white discharge effects are otherwise apt to become stained during washing. The following dyestuffs may be easily discharged, especially those marked *. The Wool Colours marked f are suitable for dyeing in a neutral bath. Yellow arid Orange. Dyestuffs for the cotton : * Diamine Yellow N, CP * Diamine Fast Yellow 3G * Diamine Gold Oxy Diamine Orange G, R, Dyestuffs for the wool: t Indian Yellow G, R. FF * t Orange extra, II, R, ENZ * Acid Yellow AT * Fast Yellow S * Orange G G. 3 Pmh and Red. Dyestuffs for the cotton: * Diamine Rose pat., all brands * Diamine Red 4B, 5B, 6B, 10B Diamine Red D * Diamine Scarlet 3B Oxy Diamine Red S * Diamine Fast Red F * Diamine Bordeaux B and S * Diamine Brilliant Bordeaux R * Diamine Violet Red pat. Dyestuffs for the wool: * Lanafuchsine SG, SB * Scarlet FR, F2R, F3R * Brilliant Scarlet GG-3R * Naphtol Red C. Blue and Violet. Dyestuffs for the cotton : * Diamine Blue, ail brands * Diamine Sky Blue pat., all brands * Diamine Fast Blue pat., all brands * Oxy Diamine Blue, all brands * Diamine Brilliant Blue G pat. * Diamine Steel Blue L pat. * Diamine Deep Blue R pat. * Diamineral Blue R pat. * Diamine Dark Blue B pat. * Diaminogene pat., B, extra. Dyestuffs for the wool : f Formyl Blue B * Azo Wool Blue C pat. * Cyanole pat., extra, FF t * Naphtol Blue G f * Lanacyl Navy Blue B pat. Dyestuffs for the cotton : * Diamine Violet N * Diamine Heliotrope 0, G pat. and B * Oxy Diamine Violet pat., B, G, R. Dyestuffs for the wool: f Formyl Violet S4B f Lanacyl Violet B pat. * Acid Violet 4 R S. 4 Green. Dyestuffs for the cotton: * Diamine Green pat., G, B, N A, CL * Diamine Dark Green N pat. * Diamine Black HW pat. Dyestuffs for the wool: f Indian Yellow G *fNaphtol Blue G f Brilliant Milling Green B fNaphtol Blue Black. Olive. Those dyestuffs indicated for Green, shaded according to require- ment with those mentioned for Yellow and Brown. Brown. Dyestuffs for the cotton: * Diamine Brown B, M, R and S * Diamine Brown pat., No 30a, 38, 43 * Diamine Catechine B, G pat. and 3 G * Oxy Diamine Brown 3GN. Dyestuffs for the wool: * f Orange extra, ENZ f Indian Yellow G, R, FF * fNaphtol Blue G f Brilliant Milling Green B. Black. Dyestuffs for the cotton: * Union Black S pat. * Diamine Jet Black pat., SS, Cr, 00, RB * Diamine Fast Black F pat. * Oxy Diamine Black pat., A, SA, FFC, US * Oxy Diamine Black pat., JE, JEI, JB, JW, JWF * Para Diamine Black B pat. Diamine Black RMW pat. (for coloured discharges only). Dyestuffs for the wool: f Naphtol Blue Black * Naphtylamine Black EFF pat. 5 For grey artel mode shades, combinations of the following: Dyestuffs for cotton : * Diamine Grey G * Diaminogene pat., B, extra * Diamine Dark Blue B pat. * Diamine Catechine B pat. * Diamine Bordeaux B * Diamine Catechine 3G * Diamine Yellow CP. Dyestuffs for the wool: f Formyl Blue B fNaphtol Blue G fLanacyl Violet B pat. fAzo Red A f Indian Yellow G. Preparation of the White and Coloured Discharges. 1. White Discharge. The composition of the white discharge depends to a certain extent on the more or less deep colouring of the shoddy weft, and should therefore be adapted to the goods to be discharged. With a suitable engraving a good white effect may be obtained even on dark coloured goods according to the following recipe : 45 parts by weight of wheat starch are stirred to a paste with 360 „ „ „ „ water and 130 „ „ ,, „ tragacanth solution 65: 1000, and boiled up well. When still warm, „ „ „ Hyraldite CW extra are dissolved in the mixture. Then „ „ „ zinc white are stirred in, and when cold „ „ „ egg albumen 1 : 1 and „ „ ,. turpentine oil are added. 225 „ 150 „ 80 „ 10 » 1000 parts. For the stated quantity of egg albumen 1 : 1, about half as much again of blood albumen may also be substituted, which should however best be added in dilute solution, this being done cautiously and in small portions, because thick solutions are apt to coagulate when entered into the thickening containing Hyraldite. It is recommended to keep the discharge as dilute as possible in order to it make penetrate well into the rough fabrics and to preclude any foaming during lengthy printing. The discharge is passed through a ball -mill and then strained through a very fine sieve. 2. Coloured Discharges. In the coloured discharges the dyestuffs may be fixed on the fibre by means either of albumen or tannin-glycerine. For shoddy goods preference is given to the discharges containing tannin, which are prepared as follows: About 60 parts by weight of 50 „ „ 410 „ 220 „ n n 150 „ 80 „ 30 „ „ Basic Colour are dissolved at the boil glycerine and [with water ; British gum are made to a paste with this solution and boiled up well. Whilst cooling Hyraldite C extra are added at about 60 n C. (140 deg. F.) and dissolved, and when quite cold, tannin-glycerine 1:1 are stirred in very gradually, and phenol added finally. 1000 parts. The addition of phenol should however be omitted when using the red dyestuffs enumerated below, because these would thereby be deterio- rated. The tannin-glycerine must not be too thick; in order to dilute it if necessary, its solution is prepared in the proportion of 1 part tannic acid, V- glycerine, l /t water (instead of 1 part tannic acid and 1 part glycerine), correspondingly increasing the amount of glycerine for dissolving the dyestuff. The coloured discharges prepared with albumen which are chiefly used for the production of bright red effects with the Eosine Colours, and likewise in combination with Hyraldite CW extra and slight percentages of dyestuff for specially bright shades, are prepared as follows: About 60 parts by weight of dyestuff are well dissolved and boiled up with 345 „ „ „ „ water, 50 „ „ „ „ glycerine and 220 „ „ ,, British gum. When cold, 125 „ „ „ ,, Hyraldite CW extra, dissolved in 100 „ „ „ ,, water, are stirred in, and 100 „ „ „ egg albumen 1 : 1 are finally added. 1000 parts. printing colours are well strained and if necessary passed through a ball-mill, being then ready for use. 1 he following dyestutfs serve as additions to the coloured discharges, as they sufficiently resist the action of the Hyraldite: For yellow: Thioflavine T, S Phosphine II a Diamond Phosphine GG, R, PG, D. For blue: New Methylene Blue NSS, GG pat. For red: Irisamine G Rosazeine 6G and B Eosine G GF, 3 G Erythrosine B Phloxine B. The green shades are produced by a suitable blending of the corre- sponding yellow and blue, the purple shades by mixing blue and red dyestuffs; olive from New Methylene Blue NSS and Diamond Phosphine, orange from Irisamine G and Thioflavine T or Diamond Phosphine R. On pages 15 and 16 will be found a number of special recipes for the preparation of coloured discharges for the effect styles most in demand. Printing. Shoddy materials will always lose a good many more small fibres and hairs than other kinds of material. On beaming for printing already, the pieces should be vigorously brushed and such particles removed if necessary by beating. Lint doctors or stiff brushes, fitting as closely as possible, should furthermore be used to prevent foreign bodies from getting into the print paste ; besides it is well to strain the print paste frequently, because, in spite of every precaution, it is next to impossible to prevent small fibres from being conveyed into the paste. The white discharges, as well as colour pastes containing Hyraldite CW extra, are best printed with the brush furnisher. In the case of multi-coloured discharge patterns it should be made a rule to print the white always with the last roller, as it is otherwise apt to be affected by crushing and transferring. In order to prevent the coloured discharge pastes from being transferred on to the white discharge and staining it during prolonged printing, it is advisable to work the colour-box with as little white print paste as possible and to replenish the white paste frequently, or to empty the colour-box entirely from time to time and stir up the contaminated white discharge with a considerable quantity of fresh paste. 8 The pressure to be applied in the printing should be regulated according to the depth of the engraving and the nature of the material to be printed. As a rule, it is recommended to work with a strong pressure, using a fairly soft and elastic covering on the pressure bowl. Treatment before the Steaming. The goods printed with the discharge should leave the drying apparatus in a well dried state; before steaming they are then plated down a few times in the air in order to cool evenly and to absorb moisture. They should never be left lying very long before steaming, but should be run continuously, if possible, from the machine to the Mather & Platt. On the other hand, the goods may quite well be allowed to lie for some time after the steaming. Steaming the Discharge Prints. The only reliable way of developing the discharge prints to full satisfaction is in a Mather & Platt steamer; large lots cannot be satisfactorily discharged in a round steamer. In order to get the full discharging effect in the Mather & Platt, the steamer should be sufficiently large and provided with means for regulating its speed so as to allow of the goods remaining therein for 10 to lf> minutes in one passage. If, however, a contrivance of this kind is not available, there is no objection to the goods passing several times through a smaller apparatus, say about twice, each time for 5 to 7 minutes. In order to obtain satisfactory discharge effects, the following points have to be kept well in view: 1. The temperature of the steam should be 102-105° C. (215 221 deg. F.), which may usually be attained without difficulty by reducing as much as possible the size of the openings through which the goods pass in and out, and by isolating the machine and the steam conduit as well as possible. 3. The steamer should be as free from air as possible; this is effected by reducing the size of the openings as afore-mentioned, and by maintaining a vigorous play of steam. It is also of considerable advantage to pass the back cloth several times through the steamer before entering the printed goods. 3. The steam should also contain a certain amount of moisture; it is not to be recommended to use superheated steam (in order for instance, to attain a higher temperature). If a temperature of over 100° C. (212 deg. F.) should be difficult to attain in the ordinary way, this may easily be achieved by inserting heating 9 pipes (as per sketch below), by which means the steamer can be suffi- ciently heated beforehand. The goods to be discharged enter the Mather & Platt at A ; B represents gilled pipes, the number of which is regulated by the size of the machine. Otherwise the arrange- ments are the same as those of the ordinary Mather & Platt. The Basic Colours used in the coloured discharges mostly come from the steamer in a largely reduced state and only gradually become re-oxydised on contact with the air. This process may be very much accelerated by subsequently steaming the prints for half-an-hour in a round steamer with damp steam, which process also fixes the dyestuffs considerably better, and covers well any burls happening to be in the material, especially in the case of printing large designs. Washing the Discharged Goods. The discharged goods have to be washed full width ; as a rule it is sufficient to take the goods a few times backwards and forwards through a roller-box filled with cold water, and finally to press them off well by means of a strong pair of squeezing rollers. The goods are not infrequently taken through the size in a padding machine only, thus combining the washing and sizing operations. The goods when washed and hydroextracted, or merely squeezed off, should never be allowed to lie for any length of time in batches, because the white discharge effects may thus be easily tinted or dulled through bleeding of the ground colour. When washed and sized, or only washed, as the case may be, the goods are dried without any long delay on the tentering machine, and then finished according to requirement. B. The Direct Print Style. Production of the Dyeings. For the direct print style the choice of suitable dyestuffs is not limited as is the case for the discharge style; any dyestuffs suitable for dyeing unions may in fact be used. The effect obtained with the direct print style being dependent upon the contrast between the dark print and the lighter ground shade, as light- coloured raw material as possible should be selected in this case also in order to be able to produce light and yet pronounced shades. Dyestuffs for Direct Prints. The Diamine Colours owe their prominent position for the direct printing of shoddy fabrics to their excellent fastness to washing and water. The brightness of their prints may be considerably enhanced by combining in the print pastes direct dyestuffs with neutral Wool Colours. Basic Colours, which are used to a much smaller extent for this line, may be printed both with tannic acid or without a mordant, as they are sufficiently fixed already by the direct colour which has as a rule been dyed previously. The Diamine Colours mentioned below are well suited as print colours for shoddy owing to their good solubility and other properties: Diamine Bordeaux VRO, S Diamine Brilliant Bordeaux R Diamine Purpurine B, 3B, 6B Diamine Rose BD, GD Diamine Brilliant Scarlet S Diamine Red 4B, 5B, 6B pat. Diamine Orange D, G, F Diamine Fast Yellow pat., F F, A Diamine Yellow CP, N Diamine Green pat., B, G, CL Diamine Dark Green N pat. Diamine Sky Blue and FF pat. Diamine Brilliant Blue G pat. Diamine Blue 2B, 3B, 3R. BX, RW Diatninogene extra pat. Union Black pat., B, BN for Printing Oxy Diamine Black pat., A extra cone., FFC extra cone., JEI extra cone. Para Diamine Black pat., B, BB extra Oxy Diamine Violet pat., B, G, R Diamine Heliotrope pat., G, 0 Diamine Brown B pat., S, 3G, R, M. The following neutral-dyeing Wool Colours may be applied to advantage in combination with the above-mentioned Diamine Colours in the print paste: Rosazei'ne B Formyl Blue B Orange II, ENZ Formyl Violet 10B, S4B Indian Yellow G Naphtol Blue Black. Brilliant Milling Green B 11 Preparation of the Print Pastes. The print pastes are prepared in a very simple manner. The dyestuff is first dissolved in water and glycerine with the addition of some phosphate of soda, at the boil This solution is then stirred to a paste with some thickening, usually wheat starch and dextrine, by boiling well for about 15 to 20 minutes and stirring until cold. These pastes are ready for use after straining through a fine piece of cloth. As the engravings are usually rather deep, the consistency of the pastes should not be too thin, to prevent running of the colour. The proportions of the thickening agents vary according to their kind and quality. The following recipe shows the standard composition of a print paste: 60- 90 parts by weight of Diamine Colour 755—725 „ 30 „ 35 „ 60 „ 60 „ 1000 parts. water glycerine phosphate of soda wheat starch dextrine. If larger proportions of wool dyestuff are used in the print paste, the preference is usually given to the ordinary acid starch-tragacanth thickening, in which case up to 100 parts by weight of alcohol may to advantage be added to facilitate dissolving; for instance: 30 parts by weight of Diamine Colour 30 ,, ,, „ „ Wool Colour 290 „ 11 ,, water 50 „ 11 „ glycerine 500 ,, „ 11 „ acid starch-tragacanth thickening 100 „ „ 11 „ alcohol 1000 parts. Acid Starch-Tragacanth Thickening. 85 parts by weight of wheat starch 320 „ „ „ „ water 365 „ „ „ „ tragacanth solution 65:1000 200 „ „ „ „ acetic acid of 8° Tw. 30 „ „ „ „ olive oil. 1000 parts. If desired to combine discharge printing with direct printing, it is best to use none but easily dischargeable dyestuffs both for dyeing the ground shade and for the printing. In this manner one is not confined to printing fitted patterns, but may print heavy designs over first printed discharge effects (checks, stripes, etc.), the discharging power of Hyraldite being sufficient to destroy both the dyestuff of the previously dyed ground shade and also of the print colour printed over the discharge. 12 Steaming the Printed Goods. As in the case of discharge prints, the plating down and cooling off of the printed goods on leaving the hot -flue in a dry state has proved of material advantage, all kinds of irregular results such as cloudiness, lists, etc. being thus preventable. The plated pieces are steamed for about an hour in an ordinary steam-box or round steamer, with damp steam and without pressure, in the manner usually applied for print styles on pure woollen goods. A greater degree of moisture may also be imparted to the pieces by wrapping them previously in damp cloths, whereby the dyeings gain considerably in brightness of shade; excessive moisture must, however, be carefully avoided as it is apt to cause the prints to run. As a rule, the plating down in the air, in combination with the application of very damp steam (which may to advantage be passed through water before entering the steamer), will be sufficient to fix the print colours well and yield sufficiently bright shades. Patterns showing discharge effects alongside of print effects produced with Diamine Colours should in the first place be treated in a Mather & Platt just like ordinary discharged goods, and only after this has been done is the steaming continued as described above, in order to fix the print colours. For such goods the plating down previous to the steaming as referred to above is of the same importance as for discharged goods. Washing the Goods. The ordinary direct prints are washed thoroughly in rope form and with pressure in the ordinary washing machine ; after hydroextracting and tentering they are ready for finishing. Print patterns in combination with discharge effects must likewise be treated full width or, if this is not feasible, in rope form, but without pressure ; in addition to leaving the more or less fine discharge effects in as good condition as possible, it is important to remove the thickening very thoroughly so that it may not impair the handle of the goods. Supplement to the Direct Print Style. The Printing of Pigment White. The printing of pigments mentioned at the beginning of this pamphlet is of course also to be considered as a direct print style. Although it is being more and more supplanted by the discharge method which yields faster colours and superior designs, we give in the following for the sake of completeness a method which has been successfully applied in practice : 350 parts by weight of zinc white are stirred to a paste with 175 >> >> yy „ water and 50 yy yy yy „ glycerine. 300 yy yy „ „ blood albumen 1:2 and 50 yy yy „ ,, turpentine oil are then added, 75 1000 yy yy parts yy „ linseed oil varnish being stirred finally into the mixture. The paste is prepared cold and ground twice. This style requires rather deep engravings and good brushing arrangements (a rotating counter brush and a brush in the colour-box) in order to avoid the print pastes from clogging the grooves of the roller. Coloured effects are produced by using earth colours, such as vermilion, ultramarine, chrome yellow, or Guignet’s green. After printing, the colours are fixed by means of a short steaming. It is not necessary to wash the goods. The pigments are frequently also fixed by means of different varnishes, usually according to some secret processes, by simply printing on and then ageing in the air, but a certain unpleasant greasy odour or handle can never be quite removed from goods produced in this manner. General Printing Directions. Method of producing the White Discharge. 45 parts by weight of wheat starch, 360 „ „ yy yy water and 130 yy n yy yy tragacanth solution 65 : 1000 are stirred 225 yy yy yy yy together to a paste, and boiled, Hyraldite CW extra being dissolved in this 150 yy yy paste while still warm, zinc white are further stirred in, and when 80 yy >> yy yy egg albumen 1:1 and [cold, 10 yy yy y> yy turpentine oil are added. 1000 parts. Directions for tlie Coloured Discharges. 100 parts by No I. weight of dyestuff are well boiled and dissolved with 300 >> >> yy yy water, 75 >) )) yy yy glycerine and 200 >> >> yy yy British gum. When cold, 125 yy yy yy yy Hyraldite CW extra dissolved in 100 yy yy yy yy water are stirred in, and 100 yy yy yy yy egg albumen 1 : 1 are then added. 1000 parts. 26— 80 parts by weight of No II. dyestuff are dissolved by boiling with 50 yy yy yy yy glycerine and 464 390 yy yy yy yy water, then stirred to a paste with 220 - 200 yy yy yy yy British gum and again well boiled. While 150 yy yy yy yy stirring, Hyraldite C extra are added at about 60" C. 60 -100 yy yy (140 deg. F.) and dissolved. When cold, tannin-glycerine 1 : 1 are added in a thin 30 yy yy yy yy and gradual stream and finally phenol. 1000 parts. After printing and drying, the goods are steamed for about 12 minutes in a Mather & Platt, washed full width in a padding machine, and dried. N. IS. In Method II, the phenol should be substituted bv glycerine if red dyestuffs are used. J B J Special Recipes for Coloured Discharges for current Effect Styles. For Red: 100 parts Eosine GGF according to Method I, page 14. 50 „ Erythrosine B according to Method I, 50 „ Eosine GGF page 14. 75 „ Iris amine G according to Method II, 15 „ Thioflavine T page 14. For Scarlet: 85 parts Eosine 3G according to Method II, 15 „ Tliioflavine S page 14. For Orange: 15 parts Irisamine G according to Method II, 40 „ Tliioflavine T page 14. 40 „ Diamond Phosphine R according to Method II, 10 „ Diamohd Phosphine GG page 14. For Yellow: 70 parts Tliioflavine T according to Method II, 10 „ Diamond Phosphine GG page 14. 35 „ Tliioflavine T according to Method II, 20 „ Phosphine II a page 14. For Green: 8 parts New Methylene Blue NSS according to Method II, 37 „ Tliioflavine T page 14. 12 „ New Methylene Blue NSS according to Method II, 18 „ Thioflavine T page 14. 24 „ New Methylene Blue NSS according to Method II, 16 „ Thioflavine T page 14. 16 For Olive: 60 parts Diamond Phosphine GG 4 „ New Methylene Blue NSS 45 „ Thioflavine T 12 „ New Methylene Blue NSS 10 „ Rosazei'ne 6G according to page Method II, 14, according to page Method II, 14. For Blue: 40 parts New Methylene Blue NSS according to page Method 14. II, 25 „ New Methylene Blue NSS according to Method II, 12 „ Irisamine G page 14. 15 „ New Methylene Blue NSS according to Method I, 2 „ Thioflavine T page 14. For Heliotrope: 50 parts Irisamine G according to Method II, 10 „ New Methylene Blue NSS page 14. For Brown : 60 parts Diamond Phosphine D 25 „ Rosazei'ne 6G 1 „ New Methylene Blue NSS according to page Method II, 14. General Method for the Application of the Direct Print Style. No I. 75 - 90 parts by weight of dyestuff are dissolved a) the boil with 740 - 725 „ „ „ water, CO o 3 n „ glycerine and 35 „ n „ phosphate of soda; 60 „ n „ wheat starch and 60 „ „ 1000 parts. - „ dextrine are stirred to a paste with this solution and the whole is then boiled for about >/4 — ‘/a hour. No II. 60 parts by weight of Diamine Colour and wool dyestuff are dissolved at the boil with 290 „ » „ „ water and 50 n n „ „ glycerine. The solution is mixed with 50 » „ „ „ alcohol and stirred into 500 » » ” „ acetic acid starch thickening. The whole is boiled up well, and when cold 50 1000 »> M parts. »» „ alcohol may finally be added. The pieces printed with this colour are steamed moist for 1 hour without pressure, then washed in rope form, and dried. Discharge Patterns from Practice. Shoddy Goods dyed by the One-bath Method and discharged with Hyraldite CW extra pat. Patterns No 1—6 illustrate the real discharge style on various qualities of shoddy weft cotton warp goods. The dyeings may all be produced by the one-bath method with the easily dischargeable dyestuffs given for the respective patterns. On pages 15 and 16 some general instructions are given, approved in practice, relating to the preparation and application of the white and coloured discharges. The printed goods were further treated according to the instructions mentioned on pages 7 — 10. Dyed with: Discharged with: No 1. Formyl Violet S4B Brilliant Milling Green B Oxy Diamine Black A pat. White discharge: Method on page 14. I New Methylene Blue Green discharge: t _ xrqq * l Thioflavine T. s a No 2. Oxy Diamine Black JW pat. White discharge: As above. No 3. Oxy Diamine Black JB pat. Formyl Violet 10B. Blue discharge: f New Methylene Blue I Irisamine G. I 20 No 4. No 5. No 6 Shoddy Goods dyed by the One-bath Method and discharged with Hyraldite CW extra pat. (See also page 18). Dyed with: Discharged with: Oxy Diamine Black A pat. Oxy Diamine Black JB pat. White discharge: Method on page 14. Formyl Blue B pat. Blue discharge: j f New Methylene Blue { Irisamine G. N S S Green discharge: | [ New Methylene Blue 1 Thioflavine T. NSS Oxy Diamine Black U S Diamine Yellow CP White discharge: As above. Brilliant Milling Green B Blue discharge: As above. Orange extra. Green discharge: As above. Oxy Diamine Black JB pat. Formyl Violet 10B. White discharge: As above. _ ... f Irisamine G Orange discharge:'. \ Thioflavine T or Diamond Phosphine R. Green discharge: As above. II 22 Shoddy Goods dyed by the One-bath Method and discharged with Hyraldite CW extra pat. Nos 7 — 9 illustrate a combination of discharge and direct printing, showing Hyraldite discharges printed along with Logwood Black. After the printing, drying and plating down, the discharge is in the first place developed by a passage of from 10 to 15 minutes through a Mather & Platt; then the Logwood Black is fixed by steaming for about an hour in an ordinary steam-box, whereupon the goods are washed. Dyed with : Discharged with : Diamine Black RMW pat. f New Methylene Blue Oxy Diamine Brown 3 GN Grem dlschcir £ e: ( Thioflavine T. NSS Oxy Diamine Black A pat. Indian Yellow G. No 8. Diamine Black RMW pat. Naphtol Blue Black Brilliant Milling Green B Formyl Violet S4B. Green discharge: As above. No 9. Diamine Yellow CP Diamine Dark Green N pat. ^ ed discharge. | Irisamine G | Thioflavine T. Diamine Black BH Brilliant Milling Green B. f Diamond Phosphine Brown discharge: Rosaze'fne 6G I New Methylene Blue NSS. The printed Black in all three patterns is Logwood Black. Ill 24 Shoddy Goods dyed by the One-bath Method, with Diamine Colours and Neutral Wool Colours printed on. No 10. The two patterns show the nature of the raw material used. Along with each pattern is mentioned the bottom on which it has been produced. (Nos 11 and 22 have been dyed on a different kind of raw material possessing a reddish shade.) Nos 11 24 represent the direct print style with Diamine Colours or Diamine Colours in combination with neutral Wool Colours. The printing and finishing of the goods is carried out in accordance with the directions on pages 11-13. The general recipes for printing, applicable for the dyestuffs mentioned, are given on Dyed with : No 11. 3 o/u Diamine Red 10 B pat. No 12. 0,75 0 o Diamine Black RMW pat. 0,25 o/ 0 Diamine Orange B 0,03 o/o Formyl Blue B on a drab bottom. No 13. 0,4 o/o Diamine Black RMW pat. on a grey bottom. No 14. 0,5 o/o Diamine Black BH 0,5 o/o Formyl Blue B 0,02 o/o Brilliant Milling Green B. page 17. Printed with: 40 ports Formyl Violet 10B 20 ,, Diamine Brilliant Blue G pat. according to Method II (page 171. 25 parts Diamine Green G pat. 40 „ Diamine Yellow CP 10 „ Brilliant Milling Green B according to Method I (page 17). 40 parts Formyl Violet 10B 20 „ Diamine Brilliant Blue G pat. according to Method II (page 171. 8 parts Diamine Green G pat. 30 „ Diamine Brown M 22 „ Diamine Brown 3G 5 „ Union Black B pat. according to Method I (page 17). IV 26 Shoddy Goods dyed by the One-bath Method, with Diamine and Wool Colours printed on. (See also page 24.) Dyed with: No IS. 0,4 o/o Diamine Black RMW pat. on a grey bottom. No 16. 0,7 o/o Diamine Black BH 0,5 o/o Diamine Fast Yellow B 0,15% Brilliant Milling Green B 0,02 °/o Indian Yellow G on a grey bottom. No 17. 0,75o/o Diamine Black RMW pat. 0,25 " 0 Diamine Orange B 0,03 o/ 0 Formyl Blue B on a drab bottom. Printed with: 30 parts Formyl Violet 10 B 60 „ Union Black B pat. according to method I (page 17). 25 parts Diamine Green G pat. 40 „ Diamine Yellow CP 10 „ Brilliant Milling Green B according to Method I (page 17). 10 parts Diamine Green G pat. 30 ,, Diamine Brown M 50 ,, Diamine Brown 3G according to Method I (page 17). No 18. 0,35 o/ 0 Diamine Black RMW pat. 0,1 o/ 0 Brilliant Milling Green B 0,05 11 u Diamine Fast Yellow B on a drab bottom. No 19. 0,7 o/ 0 Diamine Black BH 0,5 o/o Diamine Fast Yellow B 0,15 o/o Brilliant Milling Green B 0,02 o/o Indian Yellow G on a grey bottom. 15 parts Diamine Green G pat. 15 „ Diamine Yellow CP 20 „ Brilliant Milling Green B 10 „ Indian Yellow G according to Method II I page 17). 100 parts Union Black BN for Printing according to Method I (page 171. V Shoddy Goods dyed by the One-bath Method, with Diamine and Wool Colours printed on. (See also page 24.) Dyed with : No 20. 0,75 " o Diamine Black RMW pat. 0,25 ii o Diamine Orange B 0,03 o/o Formyl Blue B on a drab bottom. No 21. 0,4 o/o Diamine Black RMW pat. on a grey bottom. No 22. 2,5 0 / 0 Diamine Red 4B. No 23. 0,5 o/o Diamine Black BH 0,1 o/o Formyl Blue B 0.02 o/o Brilliant Milling Green B on a grey bottom. No 24. 0,7 o/o Diamine Black BH 0,5 o/o Diamine Fast Yellow B 0,15 o/o Brilliant Milling Green B 0,02 o/o Indian Yellow G on a grey bottom. Printed with : 60 parts Formyl Violet S4B according to Method II (page 17 1. 9 parts Formyl Violet 10 B 81 ,, Union Black B pat. according to Method I (page 17). 70 parts Oxy Diamine Black F F C extra cone. pat. 5 „ Naphtol Blue Black according to Method I (page 17). 30 parts Diamine Green G pat. 45 „ Diamine Yellow CP according to Method I (page 17). 60 parts Formyl Violet S4B according to Method II (page 17). w-& Special 19 -OOb < *i®P'awrr Library