warn :g »;p ,a ■YTHK/KiTHOH : ■.M iTiTiTf PRE-REFORMATION CHURCHES IN 5»f« atti> tpe Soutane. Vol. I.-FIFESHIRE. BY J. RUSSELL WALKER, Architect, Associate of the Royal Institute of British Architects, and Fellow of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland, Ye Abbeys and ye arches, how few and far between. The remnants of your glory in all their pride are seen; A thousand fanes are fallen, and the bat and the owl repose, Where onoe the people knelt them, and the high Te Deum rose. EDINBURGH: 67, NORTH HANOVER STREET. mdccclxxxviii. TO JOSEPH ANDERSON, Esquire, LL.D., Assistant Secretary of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland , AND Keeper of the National Museum of Antiquities , Edinburgh , This Work is respectfully dedicated, in admiration of the great services he has rendered in connection with the study of Archaeology in Scotland, as evinced in these able works—“ Scotland in Early Christian Times,” “ Scotland in Pagan Times,” and many other valuable papers ; and as a humble testimony of the great advantages the Author has derived from his advice and friendship. Prefatory I&ote, d§|i s P ec ' a ' bits Church Architecture that would, when collated, form a book likely to be popular,—but, I trust, the more valuable Y object in this Work has not been to make a number of drawings and useful one of placing on record, in a systematic and exhaustive manner, the minor ecclesiastical antiquities of the country. I say minor antiquities, because it formed no part of my intention to include the Cathedral and Abbey Churches, which now, at all events, receive a fair share of attention and care. The great majority of the larger Church remains have also been carefully drawn by professional Architects, and brought before the public in various books and papers. The smaller Parish Churches, of less repute, but surely of equal interest to the nation, have, however, had scant justice bestowed upon them ; they have been even more barbarously treated than the Cathedrals and Abbeys in times past, and are now sorely impaired by neglect, reckless attempts to adapt them to modern taste and convenience, and wanton mischief. My drawings, which it will be observed are all drawn to scale, have been made from time to time as business permitted, and, although in all cases revised and corrected by myself, a number of the drawings have been made by different assistants,—this necessarily accounts for the inequality of the workmanship. Should my readers consider I have done a little towards rescuing from oblivion those small, and in many cases scanty remains, of our interesting Pre-Reformation Churches, I will feel content and grateful. My best thanks are due to my friend, Dr Joseph Anderson, for his kindness in reading the proof-sheets, and for his valuable advice at all times ; and to the following, amongst others, of my office staff:—Mr John Dali, Mr Alexander H. Crawford, Mr Peter Whitecross, and Mr R. Robertson. To Messrs Mould & Tod, who have photo-lithographed the plates and printed the work, I also desire to express my great indebtedness, and warm appreciation of their workmanship. Contents Abdie, Church of S. Macgidrin or Adrian. Abercrombie, . Church of S-. Aberdour, Church of S. Fillan. Abernethy, Church of S. Bridget. Burntisland, Kirkton of, Church of S. Adamnan ? S. Serf. Carnock, . Church of S--. Crail, Church of S. Maelrubha ? S. Mary ? Creich, . Church of S. Devenic. Cupar, Church of S. Michael. Dairsie, . Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary. Dalgety, Church of S. Bridget. Dunmore, Chapel. Dysart, . Church of S. Serf. Forgan, . Church of S. Fillan. Inchcolm Island, . Cell or Chapel. S. Columba. Inverkeithing, Church of S. Peter. Kilconcjuhar, . Church of S. Monan. Kirkcaldy, Church of S. Patrick. Leuchars, Church of S. Athernase. Markinch, Church of S. S. Modrust and John the Baptist May Island, . Church of S. Adrian. Monimail, Church of S-. Rossyth, Church of S-. St Andrews, . Church of the Holy Trinity. Do. Church of S. Leonard. Do. Church of S. Mary on the Hill. Do. Church of S. Regulus. Do. Church of S. Salvator. St Monance, . Church of S. Monance. Ecclesiastical Foundations in Fifeshire. Ecclesiastical Foundations in Kinross-shire. PRE-REFORMATION CHURCHES IN Fife and the Irothians. ABDIE, FI FESHI RE. £$utc$ of QUacgtiurtn or Jlbrian. 5 * |RIOR to the Reformation this Church belonged to the Abbey of Lindores. It stands close to the western margin of the Loch of Lindores, and was consecrated by David de Bernhame, Bishop 0 of St Andrews, in 1242. It was last used nth November 1827. Very little of the original structure remains, the western portion having been rebuilt at different periods to suit the convenience of the congregation. The east end of the chancel is square, and has three lights in it, the centre one being the largest; the treatment throughout has been simple but pleasing. The priests’ door is intact on the south side, there is a simple splay round the jamb and arch, and a hood moulding which has also formed a string course under the windows. The Church has evidently been divided into bays marked internally by stone corbels (see sketch of one on Plate 1), and exter¬ nally by buttresses, and in the centre of each bay there has been a small lancet. There has apparently been no difference in the width of chancel and nave. The chancel measures 17 feet 6 inches in width. The skew and footstone of the east gable are noticeable for the width and treatment. Standing inside against the north wall of the chancel there is the fine slab of 14th century date and female recumbent effigy ; the shields on the slab have, I think, always been plain (see Plate 4). The Denmiln Aisle, built in 1661 by Sir Robert Balfour, is plain and bald, and contains some plain slabs with Latin inscriptions to some members of that family. The Castle, standing close to the road leading to Newburgh, and now in ruins, was the seat of the Balfours from 145 2 1 ° l 7 10 i an d two celebrated men of the name were born in it, viz., Sir James Balfour (1603-57), herald, annalist, and antiquary, and his brother Sir Andrew (1630-94), physician, and founder of the first botanical garden in Edinburgh. The bell was recast in Alexander Balfour's time, and bears the following inscription :—“ Joannes Burgerhuys me fecit 1671. Soli Deo Gloria, Mr Alexander Balfour there of the parish of Ebde.” In the churchyard, which surrounds the old church, there are one or two interesting monuments to local worthies. t. = flh(lie . Fi.feshi.Te . cons.12.4t. — Went •Vr|’l'er*»l»* r UA.'V Illnmiflrin fir HrlTinn‘ Hose to BuMresa. Ililall^A^iHWTOagflrCTJWIIW ■Face Vnofc fibnue of Vont sfrmift .IciinD fco~ Centre IEqE£ Drip to Buttrcas' ■‘/M'ig. ft; \&M -1 u ■ m m ,-il S.'S !,: | §M(& H W0Wm ISt F.tLSt F.LevtiMorT I VU^ I 0 4 ^ f* (3 { 4 - /$' {7 fi j /9 ■ ± I 6 — 5 cole far Details September 1883 . 3. - Cliuvcfi fi* Tllcift' f 4 [ v \ 9 SctiLe tif Feel: i3»ej»feuihei- 1865 CliUfch nf S‘ lllncgiciriii or Adrian —/Ifodie , Fifeshire ABERCROMBIE, FIFESHIRE. C$ui:c$ of ♦ ^ BERCROMBIE, now S. Monance, a coast parish of S.E. Fife, containing the hamlet of Abercrombie and the fishing village and (tfSgjp burgh of barony of S. Monance. Balcaskie Park extends over the N.E. corner of the parish, and in it stand the scanty remains of the church of Abercrombie. It is now fully two centuries since the church was in use, and it is now used as the burial place of the Anstruthers of Balcaskie. Very little remains of the side walls ; the inside measurements are 41 feet 6 inches in length, by 18 feet 10 inches wide. There has evidently been a stoup inside at the south door, and an aumbry in the east wall at the south side of the altar. Abercrombie, which has included the barony of S. Monance since 1646, is in the presbytery of St Andrews and synod of Fife. ROSSYTH, FIFESHIRE, £0ut:c$ of MONG the privileges conferred on the Monastery of S. Colm’s Inch was the church of Rossive or Rosyth, with the whole land in that WHfVf town, wnich Richard, Bishop of Dunkeld, of blessed memory, ggy bestowed in perpetual almsgift. The remains of the church are very scanty, the east gable and a portion of the north wall being the only portions existing. The east gable is lighted by two windows with pointed heads of good type, the rear vault being also pointed. There is an aumbry in the north wall for the service of the altar, and a recess for a holy water stoup on the east side of the north door inside. The remains seem of 13th century date. ABERDOUR, FIFESHIRE. £0utrcf$ of j BERDOUR (Gael, abhir-dur, “ confluence of the stream,”) is a Parish of south-west Fife, now in the Presbytery of Dunfermline and Synod of Fife ; it anciently belonged to the Abbey of Inchcolm, its western ^ - half having been granted by Alan de Mortimer for leave of burial in the Abbey Church. The bargain, runs the story, was curiously broken, for “ carrying his corpse in a coffin of lead by barge in the night-time, some wicked monks did throw the same in a great deep betwixt the land and the monastery, which to this day, by neighbouring fishermen and others, is called Mortimers Deep." The Parish was formed in 1640 by disjunction from Beath and Dalgety, and includes the island of Inchcolm. The Church was consecrated in 1178. As will be seen by Plate 1, it consists of chancel, nave with south aisle, and south-west porch. The chancel, which is of distinct Norman character, measures 20 feet 9 inches by 13 feet 2 inches inside. The south wall is pierced with two small narrow round- headed lights, chamfered round the outside edges, with very narrow ingoings and deep internal splay ; the sill is deeper than the jambs. The east wall is pierced by a single window of the same character, and the north wall has a similar one, in the sloping internal sill of which has been formed an aumbrye of late date 1670. flhe chancel arch is simple but boldly expressed, and is composed of two plain orders, square edged, and with a simple hood facing the nave. Mr J. S. Muir says that the jamb shafts are “ semi-cylindrical.” I am inclined to think they were square originally, like the arch, and afterwards rounded away,—both caps and bases, which are of very simple character, are square. In the north wall of the nave, at the east end, there is a window of similar character to those in the chancel, and a blocked round headed door towards the west end. Mr Muir is of opinion that the two-light window in the west gable is, like the heavy square bell-cot, of “ ante-Reformation date.” I am certainly of opinion that the window is of ante-Reformation date, but I think the bell- cot and part of the gable is of post-Reformation date. The window is exactly in the centre of the original west wall, and the bell-cot is placed on the apex of the post-Reformation addition to the gable taking the roof covering nave and south aisle. A glance at the west gable and the chancel gable externally, shews clearly the raglets of the original roofs, and proves conclusively that the chancel and nave were originally roofed on the same line, and I am rather inclined to think the nave was first lengthened by ten feet or so about the end of the 14th century, and the window then introduced, and the south aisle and south-west porch added at a still later date; the roof of the aisle would at first, I conjecture, simply be a lean-to against the nave wall, and sometime after the Reformation the whole building was apparently overhauled, the roofs taken off and a new nave roof covering also the south aisle put on ; this, of course, caused the alteration of ridge centre ; the door to the west gallery and other square headed lights would likely be introduced, and slapped as in the case of the south wall of the chancel, at this time, possibly the date on the aumbrye in the chancel—1670, points to the time when the last alteration—made to suit post-Reformation purposes—took place. The nave piers are cylindrical, with meagre caps and bases, the arches are semi-circular, with plain chamfers on each edge, and there is no hood on either side. The south-west porch is pretty entire, but roofless like the rest of the building, the door has a broad chamfer on the edge and a pointed head without a hood ; the inner door has been square headed but is now blocked, on the east side of it there is a small mutilated niche which has evidently been the covert of a Benatura. Inserted in the south wall of the aisle is a monument to the Reverend Robert Blair (1583-1666), chaplain to Charles I. ; he was banished from St Andrews by Archbishop Sharp, and died at Meilde Couston in the parish of Aberdour. CliurgliqfS 1, FUUin. —— = Clberdour. circa. 1178 c L£ pi an ABERNETHY, partly in FIFESHIRE. £0urc0 of Q0n&t. Mcielr li b h ci Church of ST. Maelrubha = Cratl - II r 3 C a po Q H Ml SC t=c: fig| LgJ M Bu O m gd jj EsJ ad 3C \0 b e« se Scole Tot Jiell, Church of ST. Maelruhha May IMS. C hurch ofr Si. 1 Mnrrubhit C R E I C H, FIFESHIRE. C0urcf$ of ©ethnic. REICH Parish is in the north of Fife, and extends close to the river iSsil Tay ' The rU ' nS ° f the oId c ^ urc h and those of the castle stand near y : '-j v- together. Little of the church is left, but the plan, shewing various S«r alterations and additions, is still entire. The original building seems ^ to have been an oblong of 60 feet, by 15 feet wide. There is no sign of an opening in the east gable having existed previous to the Reformation" In the north wall the jambs of a narrow lancet are entire, and there is a plain light high up in the west gable which may have been original also. All the other doors and windows have been altered, and a pretty large south transept, or “ aisle,” as they were called, added after the Reformation. In the north wall of the chancel, near the east end, there is a monumental recess or covert for an effigy, the arch is very plainly moulded and has the key¬ stone projecting and carved with the Barclay arms. Partly within and partly without the recess, there lies the fine incised stone slab figured on Plate 2. Further to the west, in the same wall, there is another recess similar in size, with a moulded arch of late 14th century date ; the moulding consists of alternate rolls and hollows divided by small fillets, the hollows being filled in with spaced four-leaved ornaments. The incised slab, above referred to, is in memory of David Barclay and his spouse, Helen de Douglas, who respectively died in the years 1400 and 1421. The Latin inscription on the bevelled edge of the slab is to the following effect:—“ Here lies David Barclay of Luthrie, Baron of Presgyl, who died on the day of the month of A.D. 1400. Here lies Helen de Douglas, his wife, who died on the 29th day of the month of January, A.D. 1421." The shield above the right shoulder of the knight is charged with the arms of the Barclays of Collairnie, with a clover leaf on the cheveron, supposed to be a mark of cadency. This David Barclay would seem to have been the second son of Hugh Barclay of Kilmaron. The shield above the right shoulder of the baron’s lady is now defaced, but it may safely be assumed it was blazoned with the arms of Douglas. Laurence, official of Lindores Abbey, and one of the originators of the University of St Andrews, was rector of Creich, A.D. 1432. In 1493, Sir John Lyndsay, one of the witnesses to Lord Glamms’s decision of the dispute between the convent of Lindores and the burgesses of Newburgh, is designated vicar of Creich. The change of appellation from rector to vicar shews that the church of Creich had been bestowed on Lindores Abbey between the dates mentioned, but by whom does not appear, there being no record of the bestowal in the chartulary of the Abbey. The church of Creich is not mentioned in Boiamund’s Roll of Churches, A.D. 1273, and, judging from the remains, it was probably erected late in the 14th century. CUPAR, FIFESH1RE. of §kt Qfttc0aef. (S4jgr» mvr^ ’ s a ^ own an d parish of central Fife, a royal and parliamentary P|g| burgh, and the political capital of the shire. David II. granted it a I'jlPf charter in 1363, but prior to that it appears to have enjoyed the ( §|r privileges of a royal burgh. Old Cupar lay on the north bank of the river Eden, and had six gates or ports at thoroughfares which mostly retain their ancient names. Previous to 1415, the parish church stood at some distance from the town to the north. It occupied a site at the small plantation midway up the avenue leading to Springfield House, and near to what was known in the latter half of last century as the “ Auld Kirk Yard.” It was dedicated to St Maiy, hence the name “ Lady, or St IVIary, given to the burn running past the foot of the field. The foundations were dug up in 1795, and a large quantity of bones discovered. In the book of Paisley, referred to by Sibbald in his history of the shire, we find that, Anno 1415, “In Cupro de Fyfe fundata est nova parochialis ecclesia, quae prius distabat a burgo ad plagam borealem.” It was in this year then—1 4 - 1 5 —that the Prior of St Andrews, in order “ that the rites of religion might be celebrated with a pomp gratifying to the taste of the age,” erected a new church on the site of the present parish church, and in all probability it was dedicated to St Mary. It is described as a spacious and magnificent building in the pointed style, with a tower at its western extremity. Dr Campbell says—“ It was built in the best style of the times, of polished freestone ; in length 133 feet, by 54 feet in breadth. The roof was supported by two rows of arches extending the whole length of the church (thereby forming a centre nave and side aisles). The oak couples were of a circular form, lined with wood, and painted in the taste of the times. In 1785 this extensive building was found to be in a state of total decay. The heritors of the parish resolved to pull down the old fabric, and to erect on the same site a church on a more convenient plan.” Why these men of taste (!) allowed the tower and a few of the nave arches to stand is hard to tell, but let us be thankful for the small mercy. The position of the tower has been at the north-west corner, and it is somewhat peculiar in that the west and north faces of it have been flush with the exterior walls of the church, and the south and east walls are carried by arches ; the south-east pier carrying these arches is hexagonal in plan, and apparently the other nave columns have been circular. Against the west wall there is a respond to receive the tower arch in line with the nave arches, but the arch spanning the north aisle is received by a corbel stop ; the arches consist of two orders, with plain splayed edges, and rest on moulded capitals of good second pointed character ; the bases correspond. The jamb of the west window remains on the north side, and is of simple character. Inside the tower, in the north-west corner, there is a circular newel stair leading to the various floors, the two lowest are arched, and the upper floor has been of timber carried on stone corbels, as will be seen by the sections. It is evident that the thrust of the arches carrying the south and east walls, and the two arched floors, must be very considerable, nevertheless there are no external buttresses such as we almost invariably see in buildings of this date. True, there is no real necessity for them, the weight of the tower being amply sufficient to counterbalance the thrust, still their absence is unusual. The tower rises to the very considerable height of 55 feet before it is broken by string course or off-set; immediately below this string course there is a plain splayed pointed light on each cardinal face. The upper stage of the tower has been taken down to this string course, and rebuilt very likely when the Reverend William Scott built the spire, at his own expense, in the year 1620. This upper stage has two pointed lights on each face, and is surmounted by a parapet, the corbels of which are very similar to those in the examples at Crail, St Monance, Kirkcaldy, &:c., &c. ; the parapet, however, instead of being solid as in these examples, is open, and filled in with miserable balusters of a classic type, and the panelled angle pedestals support pinnacles that make us long for the touch of the vanished hand. The spire, so generously added by Mr Scott, rises to a height of 44 feet from the top of the tower, and, while of good proportion and harmonizing well with the structure below it, the detail, what little there is of it, is of debased character. On the west elevation of the tower there is rather a curious high base course, six feet from the ground (see Plate 3), projecting from the wall face, and having square flowers cut out at regular intervals. Immediately above, in the same wall, there is a narrow light with a triangular head of somewhat unusual character,—a detail of it is given on Plate 5. The bells are shewn on Plate 6, and are very good and handsome examples. The pitch of the larger bell is A, and the smaller C, so that when rung together they form a musical chord. Inside the church, in the west wall, there is the fine recumbent effigy—shewn on Plate 7—it lies in a moulded and arched recess, and is perfect in all its parts. The effigy represents a Fernie of Fernie, and may date about the end of the 14th century or beginning of the 15th century. Various members of the family held the office of Constable of Cupar. Aviel de Fernin witnessed three charters of Duncan, Earl of Fife, who died in 1203. The neighbouring parish of Tarvit was included in that of Cupar after the Reformation. The church of Tarvit was dedicated to St Michael, and after the union with Cupar the church common to both was called St Michael's. jsfcale ol- FcelTT December 1881. CROMBIE, FIFESHIRE. £0urc0 of ROMBIE was an ancient parish in the S.W. extremity of Fife, now incorporated with Torryburn. The ruins of Crombie church occupy v a commanding site overlooking the Firth of Forth. The plan is still entire, and measures 45 feet in length and 14 feet wide, inside. The east gable has been lighted by two narrow lancets, like the gable at Rossyth, but of somewhat later character. There is a small aumbry in the east gable, south side. The memorial slab is to Philip, Laird of Kippo, “ Mediciner,” who died in 1640, aged 71. Several broken slabs are built into the walls. DAIRSIE, FIFESHIRE. £0uvc$ of QSlteetb (pirgtn QTlar}). ■'? HAVE thought it well to include this curious little church of the 17th century in my collection, although, strictly speaking, it is not a Pre-Reformation church. It was erected in 1621 by Archbishop Spottiswoode, the historian and court favourite. The neighbouring castle was rebuilt by him, and also the bridge across the Eden. The church is principally interesting as representing the vast project of “ covering Scotland with such church edifices and services as England has retained ; and though the structural part of the project went no further than the building of the church of Dairsie, and the doctrinal part was overwhelmed in wild com¬ motions, it is impossible to look without interest on this quiet little memorial of so brilliant a failure, nestled in a clump of woodland stretching down to the gentle waters of the Eden.” The Archbishop’s biographer says, the main object he had in view was “ the restoring the ancient discipline, and bringing that Church (the Church of Scotland), to some degrees of uniformity with her sister church of England, which, had we on both sides been worthy of, might have proved a wall of brass to both nations ; ” and in this spirit “ he built and adorned, upon his own charges, the church of Dairsie after the decent English • form ; which, if the boisterous hand of a mad Reformation had not disordered, is, at this time, one of the beautifullest little pieces of church work that is left to that unhappy country.” The last allusion refers to the meeting which was held in 1641 to apppoint a Committee to search for superstitious monuments in the several Presbyteries, when “ Mr Patrick Scougall reported that there were sundry crosses in their Kirk of Dairsie which, by some, were not thought to be superstitious,” and he asked that a special commission be sent to examine and report. “ They assembled on 2nd November, and reported that they found that, at the entrance of certain desks or pews, and over the great west door, ‘ there are crosier staffes, in some part alone, and in others as aditament and cognisance of the last pretended bishop’s arms, not being any sign or cognisance, ordinary and common in the arms of that name or family, but merely a sign of his degree hierarchical, according to the manner and form used among the Roman hierarchists and others following them,’ and therefore the minister and session are to ‘ take order with,’ ”—that is, it may be presumed, remove them. “ Further, they find superstitious a glorious partition wall, with a degree (step) ascending thereto, dividing the body of the Kirk fra the quire (as it is ordinarlie called in Papistry, and among them that follow Papists), and because this particular is not specially named in the commission, and a great part of it is the building and ornaments of some desks ; and above the great door of this quire, so called, the arms of Scotland and England quartered, with divers crosses about and beside them, are set up, whereupon the Kirk has not particularly determined ; therefore that part of superstition, or what is superstition in it, the brethren convened referred, and returned back to the Provinciall next following.” The Assembly directed the “ glorious partition wall of timber ” to be shortened to the height to which part of it served for the enclosure of pews. In plan the building is a simple oblong, 70 feet long by nearly 25 feet wide, and without any division or marking between the chancel and nave. Inside, at the south-west corner, there is a circular stair leading to the belfry. Originally the roof externally was flat, like the ceiling inside. The church is divided into four bays externally by boldly projecting buttresses, and in the centre of each bay there is a large three light window, the curtaining arch being pointed, and the lights, which stop below the springing of the arch, are trefoil headed ; the arch of each window is filled in with three cinquefoiled openings unmoulded, and cut through the flat stone like a pattern in pasteboard. The east end is filled in with two similar windows. The west door is of distinct classic type, and more like a secular door of the period than ecclesiastical. Indeed, all the mouldings are more classic than Gothic in type. The belfry is curiously corbelled out from the wall on the south and west sides, and is rather picturesque, but possessed of little architectural character. The interior is bald, and destitute of a single feature worth notice. Poivste ■ Kites hire cC.ber »88*. DALGETY, FIFESHIRE. of QBrtbgof. f§ «LGETY is a coast parish of S.W. Fife, containing the villages of ^t David’s, Fordel, Mossgreen, and part of Crossgates. The island of Inchcolm is in this parish. The original village of Dalgety stood at the head of the bay of that name, about half-a-mile S.S.E. of the present church ; the old church now is the only remain marking the site. The church of St Bridget was dedicated in 1244, and the original remains seem to be first pointed in style ; most of the old features are entirely gone,—all the windows have been altered apparently to admit more light. One pointed doorway on the south side of the nave is in the usual position, and seems to be original, it is of the simplest possible character ; there is also a plain piscina in the south wall of the chancel, close to the east wall. In plan it is a simple oblong, without aisles or any distinction in the mason work between nave and chancel, measuring 55 feet 6 inches long, by 16 feet 6 inches wide. Rather a large building on the north side seems to have been a sacristy or priest’s residence, there being a fire-place in the east wall of it, close to the main wall of the church, and two very narrow lights in the north wall ; the small building projecting from the south side seems also old. The fine slab, dated 154°. Plate 4, is built into the north wall of the chancel, and is in very good condition. The building at the west end of the church was erected after the Reformation ; it is, although roofless, an excellent piece of mason work, the room inside having moulded stone panels between the windows ; the room is approached by an out-jutting stone turnpike ; facing the church there is a large square headed opening, and inside the church there are evident marks of a wooden gallery. The small square room at the south¬ west corner has a fire-place in it. In the vault below the large room lie the mortal remains of Chancellor Seton, first Earl of Dunfermline, born 1555, died 1666. On the gable of the west wall there is a small bell-cot, and a small bell in it, shewn on Plate q. S* Bridgets Churnli »»» HFTIfC section BESS Boat = ^Datqety Fifeslnr rtetail of Lettering 8* ml BeLU~ __ n f £3 p ^ / f _ . _ Hell in-cot. West Gq.bLe itjcoLf «f ex i I i . 1 . l l .1 I 1 I I - 1 . J ffeeii' — June 1884. DUNMORE, FIFESHIRE. iHIS chapel has been, to a great extent, built out of old materials, very probably from an earlier chapel on the same site ; the size is rather interesting, viz., 43 feet by 16 feet inside the walls. There is a door in the north wall in the usual position, but no windows; in the south wall there is a narrow door and two windows. The east and west gables are intact, and have each a window pretty high up ; inside, and below the east window, there is a memorial tablet. The following very interesting notes about this chapel are taken from Dr Laing’s valuable book, “ Lindores and its Abbey ” :— “ Dunmuir, more correctly Dunmore, is in the parish of Abdie. In the confirmation of the foundation charter of Lindores Abbey by Pope Innocent III., A.D. 1198, ‘ the chapel of Dundemore ’ is described ‘ as belonging to the church of Londors.’ The name is evidently derived from the Gaelic Dun more the great dun or fort on Normans Law, the Northmans or Norwegians’ Law.' There is a small chapel on the property, the walls of which are nearly entire but roofless. It is comparatively of modern erection, but the stones of a much older chapel have been used in its construction, and it is a legitimate inference to presume that they formed part of the chapel existing A.D. 1198. Besides hewn work built among the ruble, the lintels of the gable windows are specially noticeable, they consist each of a single stone hewn into a semi-circular or arched form, almost identical with some described by Dr Petrie as seen in very ancient Irish churches. “ The lands of Dunmore belonged to a family of great antiquity, Henry of Dundemore was a witness to the conveyance of lands of Rathmuryel to the Monastery of Lindores, at Lundoris Abbey in the year 1245 ; John of Dunde- more was one of the Regents of Alexander III. in his minority—1249-1262. Thomas of Dundemore, Bishop of Ross, recognised the title of King Robert the Bruce to the crown of Scotland, A.D. 1309. Stephen of Dundemore, of that ilk in Fife, was elected Bishop of Glasgow, A.D. 1317. “ The family of Ayton are buried in this chapel ; on the inside of the east gable there is a sandstone panel bearing four shields, and the initials J. A. carved on it. Mr Jervise is of opinion that the third, as well as the first, has been charged with the Ayton arms (a cross engrailed between four roses). The arms on the second shield are very much defaced, but enough remains to show that it had borne four lions rampant (for Wernyss), which is confirmed by the faint traces of the letter W below the shield. The arms on the fourth shield are probably those of Lindsay of Kirkforthar, which are described as a fesse- chequee between three stars in chief, and a hunting horn in base. The initials and date prove that the panel was erected by Sir John Ayton. “ The son of Patrick Murray, who acquired Ayton, is said to have been buried in the chapel.” at Dunmore Gpril 1883. DYSflRT, FIFESHIRE. of ^erf. jjl®YSART is a coast town of Fife, and a royal and parliamentary burgh. It is a place of very great antiquity, being mentioned in history as early as 874. St Serf is said to have held his famous discussion with Satan in a cave in Lord Rosslyn's grounds above the church. The name Dysart is said to be from the Latin desertum, “ a solitude,” or, according to Swan, Dys-ard Celtic, signifying the height of God. It was originally a burgh of barony holding of the St Clairs of Rosslyn, and was erected a royal burgh about the beginning of the 16th century. It was a place of considerable importance during the 14th and 15th centuries, and had a large trade in manufactured salt, fish, and coals ; and malting and brewing were carried on at a very early period. About a mile north of the town there is a large memorial stone standing in a field, which, according to tradition, marks the spot where a battle was fought with the Danes. There is also said to have been a priory of black friars in Dysart, the chapel of which was dedicated to St Dennis,—part of it still remains. Near by stands the church of St Serf, or rather what remains of it, viz., the south-west tower, west gable, south-west porch, part of the south aisle, and a few scattered piers. The west gable has been lighted with one large window, the monials and tracery of which are entirely gone, the jamb is moulded and of good character, as are also the nave arches and caps, see Plate 4. The tower is a large one, not square as usual, but measuring 29 feet north and south by 22 feet east and west; there is a circular turnpike stair in the north-west corner inside, with a door entering from the nave and another from inside the tower. As will be seen by the section (Plate 5), each floor has been of wood, the beams carried on stone corbels. In the north-east corner of the tower there is an oblong shaped opening which may possibly have been a squint. The windows in the lower part of the tower, and also those giving light to the stair, are narrow and square headed, and curiously disposed, their jambs, sills, and lintels are simply splayed. The tower is divided into three stages by small string-courses, and high up in the top stage, just under the corbelled parapet, there is a pointed light in each cardinal face, with moulded jambs ; the top has rather a peculiar look, owing to the small saddle-back gable on top of the stair, and another saddle-back roof at right angles to it running from north to south, both are finished with the usual “ corbie ” or crow step. The south-west porch seems of later date, and is entered by a large round headed opening ; the character of the moulded jamb is distinctly Scotch, there is no hood moulding but a label immediately above the arch ; in the gable there is a saint's niche, with enriched canopy and bracket, and inside, in the same position, there is another small niche with a trefoil head, and a winged head forming the bracket. The roof is arched, and covered outside with stone flags. There are the usual side seats of stone within it. The inner entrance has been checked to receive a wooden door, and inside the aisle to the right or east side of the door there is a small mutilated “ holy water basin." The windows in the south aisle have been pretty large and square headed, but I am inclined to think this aisle was a later addition and built with the south¬ west porch ; there has also been considerable alteration in the nave, as the second nave pier from the west has been built fully 6 feet in length, and the responds facing east and west are of different heights to the top of the caps, shewing that the arches to the east had their springing at a higher level than those remaining to the west. The whole appearance of the remains point, I think, to the existing west portion having been a first addition to the original building, and the south aisle and porch a second addition. The same thing seems to have been done at Aberdour and elsewhere. The remains at Dysart are of second pointed character, and the church was dedicated to St Serf in 1245. tji-imnd Plait . Cfliurch o f & ^erf, = ^ ^hapel .neor.We^Weniy^, = Dy^nrl , jPif ej^liir e ,= ^ F i f li ire. I I I I ficale oF Feet. FORGAN, FIFESHIRE. of jjfiffan. HE parish was anciently called St Fillans, from the church being dedicated to that Saint. The church is beautifully situated in a sequestered spot, about 2£ miles from Newport, and prior to the Reformation it belonged to the Priory of St Andrews. The building has been of the plainest possible description, and possesses no feature of interest. It is an oblong of 67 feet 4 inches, by 19 feet 5 inches inside, with a modern aisle or transept about the middle of the north side. There is a door, blocked, in the south wall near the west end, and another in the same wall at the east end ; the jamb is a little peculiar. There appears to have been no windows in the north side, and only one in the east gable. The slab shewn lies in the chancel, close to the door in the south side, and is in memory of Mrs Catherine Trail, spouse of William Ramsay, it bears the date of 1578. Morons MoFK on Pi recl iort T t o fjelween Torcjaj &• Leuehors. - Cfun-cl'i of .* > 1 Vilitm = = Fi>i‘i f tm . Fife shirr north . \ . J jSfecl-'um O .B Ornomenl round g»lq~fo m Church -yard. INCHCOLM ISLAND, FIFESHIRE. Cdi or £0apof. CofumBa. P i HE late Sir James Y. Simpson, Bart., first described this interesting j early cell in his admirable paper read before the Society of 1 Antiquaries of Scotland, published in the Proceedings of the Society, ffif vol. ii, p. 489, and also in Archceological Essays by the late Sir James Y. Simpson, edited by John Stuart, LL.D., vol. i, p. 67. Shortly after Sir James Y. Simpson described it, the Earl of Moray, who is proprietor, had the cell cleaned out and repaired, the necessary plans having been prepared by Mr Brash of Cork, the well-known architect and antiquary, who was an intimate friend of Sir James Y. Simpson. Some slight differences in plan and in the sizes will be observed between the plan published in Sir James Y. Simpson’s paper and the plan and sizes as shewn by me, but in all the main features they agree, and the description of the cell by Sir James is so full and complete that I think it altogether unnecessary for me to enter into a long account of it. The eminent archaeologist, Dr Petrie, the well-known author of “ The Round Towers and Ancient Architecture of Ireland,” added copious and valuable notes to Simpson’s paper. Joseph Anderson, LL.D., also gives a clear and concise description of the cell in his valuable work, “ Scotland in Early Christian Times,” and I have thought it well to reproduce his remarks here. He says—writing of the single chambered primitive church—“ There are but two varieties,—those built with lime, and those that have reached the utterly simple character of construction that consists in the placing of stone upon stone without any binding material to keep them together. One of the best examples of the first variety is almost at our own doors. In the Island of Inchcolm, beside the ruins of the well- known monastery founded by Alexander I., is an earlier building, stone-roofed, and of small size and rude construction. It has been most minutely described by Sir James Simpson, who first saw the significance of its peculiar features. It is irregular in form, on the ground plan approximately rectangular internally, and measuring 16 feet in length along the centre of the floor, and 6 feet 3 inches across the east end, and 4 feet 9 inches at the west end. The walls are about 3 feet thick, so that its external length is about 22 feet. The original doorway is in the south wall, near the west end. It is 5 feet high, and 4 feet wide, with slightly inclining jambs. It is arched externally by a radiating arch, roughly constructed, but internally the arch is changed into the older form, which is constructed by overlapping stones on the horizontal principle. There is only one window, placed in the east end, 23 inches in height and 10 inches in breadth, splaying inwardly to a width of 2 feet 3 inches. The roof of the building is vaulted with stones placed in the form of a radiating arch, somewhat pointed at the apex, and the centring stones roughly wedge-shaped The space between the upper surface of the vaulting and the stone roof is filled in with small stones and a grouting of lime. In this are bedded the oblong- squared stones which form the roof. Such are the simple features of the Scotic structure to whose existence on the island the larger monastery in the European style of architecture, which has over-shadowed it for seven centuries, owes its origin. In Bower s Continuation of Fordtm, it is recorded that when king Alexander was storm-stayed for three days on the island in the year 1123, he shared the hospitality of a hermit who then lived upon it, and who, belonging to the service of S. Columba, devoted himself to his duties at a certain little chapel there, content with such poor food as the milk of one cow, and the shell and small sea fishes he could collect. It adds to the interest of this testimony that these words were written by Abbot Bower in the monastery of Inchcolm, which was erected by the King in fulfilment of a vow made in the hermit's chapel.” Inchcolm is in Aberdour parish. INVERKEITHING, FIFESHIRE. £0uvc0 of £S>. fpofer. NVERKEITHING is a coast town and parish of S.W. Fife. The original parish church, dedicated to S. Peter, was bequeathed in 1139 to Dunfermline Abbey by Waldeve, son of Gospatric. The church was burned in 1825, and reconstructed in 1826. The middle-pointed western tower is all that remains of the original church. It is square and of three stages, and terminates in a modern wooden polygonal spire, rising within a plain parapet resting on heavy corbels arranged at regular intervals. Two long buttresses, with chamfered angles and plain sloping heads, finishing rather higher than the commencement of the first stage, are placed at the angles. At the south-east corner there is a belfry turret, appear¬ ing externally as a bold semi-octagonal projection divided into two stages, and finished off in a steep pyramidal stone capping, whose point reaches within two feet of the corbel course. The belfry stage contains a pointed window with somewhat curious tracery in the head, and the second and lower stages have each a small lancet-headed light. The lower stage has a large modern door in the western face. The belfry turret is entered from the outside by a square headed door, and small square headed openings light the stair. The bell is a good one, and is dated 1641. The font is a fine and perfect example of middle-pointed date. The bowl was discovered in 1807, when the lower part of the tower was turned into an entrance porch. It had evidently been buried there to save it from destruction. The pedestal, or shaft, had been lying about the outside of the church without attracting any attention up till the time the bowl was unearthed, when their connection became plain. It was then re-erected, in its complete state, inside the new porch, where it remained for some years, but was afterwards removed to a spot near the pulpit, where it now stands, and is regularly used for public baptisms. The bowl is hexagonal, and carries at each angle an embattled cylindrical shaft terminating in a corbel head. Each of the panelled faces is filled in with an angel holding a blazoned shield. The orifice is spherical, and has a bottom drain. The pedestal is formed of five filleted rolls, alternating with a small triangular-shaped member between ; each roll has a foliated cap and heavily moulded base. So far as can be made out, the following appear to be the arms on th respective shields :— 1. Quarterly, ist and 4th, three bay ? leaves—Foulis of Colintoun ? 2nd and 3rd, saltire and chief, wavy—Bruce of Balcaskie. 2. A fess chequy between three crescents—Stewart. 3. A fess between three crescents—Melville of Glenbervie. 4. Per pale, dexter side, a lion rampant within a double tressure—Lyon of Glammis ; and sinister side of bars, wavy—Drummond. 5. Lion rampant within a double tressure—Lyon of Glammis. 6. An eagle displayed, surmounted by a bend with three crescents— Ramsay of Dunoun. The dimensions are as follows :— Total height,. Over bowl, Diameter of orifice, Depth of orifice, Feet Inches. 4 1 3 2 2 o 1 o CTrurch of ST. PeTen Church of* Pel-or. Ir?v>i*Uei 1’h'mcr.Bcip-Hginul Fonf. KILCONQUHAR, F I F E S H I R E. of Qttonan. ^ILCONQUHAR is a coast parish in the East Neuk of Fife, and once included the barony of S. Monance and the parish of Elie. The church and churchyard are finely situated on the north side of Kilconquhar Loch, a very beautiful fresh water lake. As will be seen, very little remains of the old church, which was consecrated in 1243 and dedicated to S. Monan. The existing remains point to the 15th century as the likely period of erection. KIRKCALDY, F1FESHIRE. £$urc$ of (pafridL IRKCALDY is said to have been an ancient place of worship belonging to the Culdees, whence the name Kilculda, the cell or place of worship of the Culdees, afterwards corrupted into Kirkcaldy, 'rior to the Reformation, the greater portion of the parish of Abbotshall belonged to the parish of Kirkcaldy, but about 1650 a new parish, now called Abbotshall, was erected, and the parish of Kirkcaldy now consists of the burgh of that name, and the burgh acres and common land. In 1334 David II. mortified the burgh to the Monastery of Dunfermline, in whose possession it remained until 1450, and was then conveyed to the bailies and community by the commendator and convent. Little is known about Kirkcaldy when it was disjoined from the Lordship of Dunfermline. According to the legendary origin, the town was founded as early as the 6th century by St Columba, who is said to have built here one of his 300 churches. The west tower is all that remains of the Pre-Reformation church, and is of late second pointed date. It is divided into two stages by a slight string¬ course. There is a long single lancet on each cardinal face in the upper stage, with a segmental rear arch. In the south-west corner there is a circular turn¬ pike stair, starting from what has evidently been a first floor at a height of 20 feet from the ground floor ; it is lighted by square headed slits in the south wall. The tower has the usual corbelled parapet, and has a hideous modern erection on top as a belfry ; the bell is rather a nice one (see Plate 2). The grave slabs on Plate 2 are in memory of a mariner and his wife, and are apparently of 17th century date. mmn ftoufli fc/Levcitlort . LEUCHARS, FIFESHIRE. £0urcl5 of §kt tcaf£& 1244. A^FfLL that is now left of this beautiful and characteristic specimen of ifeliSl Norman art is the chancel and semi-circular apse. The church at (jMnp Dalmeny is the most complete Norman example left us, but Leuchars Jg* has been a much nobler edifice, and when we think of the wholesale destruction that has overtaken our antiquities—alike secular and ecclesi¬ astical—we cannot but feel thankful that such a charming piece of work is still left us. If as much of the beautiful church at Tynninghame, which is nearly similar in plan but somewhat later in date, had been spared, it would have been no small happiness to lovers of art,—indeed, Europe might be ransacked, without success, for examples, on the same scale, to match them. The chancel inside measures 19 feet long by 17 feet 8 inches wide, and the apse 11 feet 7 inches by 12 feet 9 inches, the thickness of the chancel and apse arches being each 3 feet. The chancel arch, opening into the modern nave, is 9 feet wide, and the apse arch 8 feet 9 inches wide. As will be seen from the Plates, there is a great variety of ornamental detail of the usual Romanesque character used throughout the work. The chancel is lighted by two narrow round headed lights in the upper stage of the south wall, and by a similar single light in the north wall. The apse has three lights, one facing east, one north-east, and the third south-east. All the windows are widely splayed within, and in the inner wall face there are nook shafts, with bases and capitals, carrying arches ornamented in various ways. The apse is vaulted in stone, and has vaulting ribs, moulded, and springing from capitalled shafts, and grotesque corbel heads for bases resting on the lozenge covered trigonal string-course which runs round the apse. The chancel and apse arches are very beautiful, and of fine proportion. Externally, the building presents a considerable amount and variety of decorative detail. The walls of the chancel are divided into two stages by a broad trigonal string-course, with a continuous leaf-shaped ornament on the centre portion. The under stage is filled in with an intersecting arcade, forming an arcade of five divisions ; the arches are formed of an outer fillet and single hollow and roll, and spring from coupled cylindrical bearing shafts, with double escalloped capitals with a heavy abacus over ; the bases are of the usual type, and have a square plinth below embracing both shafts, and resting on a heavy moulded upper base course running round both chancel and apse. The upper stage is divided into an arcade of five, the centres being placed without any regard to those below ; the arch molds are heavy, and consist of a series of rolls and hollows, the outer hollow being filled in with the cable moulding set between two small sharp-edged triangular members ; the abacus is plain and bevelled on the under side; the capitals are similar to those in the lower arcade, but the shafts are not coupled, but form nook shafts separated from each other by a narrow built pier. Above this arcade there is a bold table-course, supported by large corbels carved into various figures representing ram heads, bears, and other grotesque figures usually found in buildings of this period. In a somewhat similar manner the apse is divided into two stages ; the lower arcade has coupled shafts, with caps and bases the same as the chancel, but supported by single arches only, decorated with the chevron ornament; the upper arcade is in every way similar to the corresponding arcade in the chancel, except that the arches are decorated with the billet moulding on the outer ring and a chevron on the inner ring. The corbel table is of the same character Ts that on the chancel. The apse is disfigured, and the whole proportions much injured, by a late 17th century bell-tower built on the top of the vaulting,_in itself it is squat and ungainly, but the softening hand of time has helped to improve its appearance. The chancel (see Plate 12), contains a slab in memory of Sir William Bruce of Earlshall, companion of Claverhouse, and his wife Dame Agnes Lyndesay,—she died in 1635, Sir William in 1584. On the same Plate is shewn a slab, also in the chancel, to the memory of Robert Carnegie of Kinnaird, Knight, one of the Senators in Ordinary, who died in the Castle of Leuchars on the 5th of June 1565, aged 55 years. Leuchars is frequently mentioned in the Registry of the Priory of St Andrews under the various names of Lochris, Locres, Lochiresch, Lucris, &c. It is mentioned in a confirmatory bill by Pope Gregory to the Priory of St Andrews in 1187. Billings, in his “ Baronial and Ecclesiastical Antiquities,” says “ It is interesting to find this specimen of pure Norman architecture connected with a family name as purely indicative of one of those Norman adventurers, whose names disappeared from the territorial records of a large part of Scotland after the war of independence, and who, before that event, seem to have nearly partitioned the Kingdom between them. It appears that a Nesius de Quincy had, in the days of William the Lion, conferred the church of Leuchars on the Priory, but that his nephew had attempted to resume the patronage, by presenting as the clerk a certain Simon de Quincy, and the Abbots of Arbroath, Lindores, and Cupar were appointed to inquire into and settle the dispute so arising - .” Leuchars is best known to the world in later times as having been the first parochial charge of Alexander Henderson, one of the boldest champions of Presbyterianism ; he is supposed to have entered on his charge about 1611. He was presented by the obnoxious Archbishop Gladstanes. Church of S* Cithern use Cliupeli of 8* Qt lie muse =Leucligrs .Fifesliire .= Seale for Qeetx 4‘"fu«o Ur fix. . IMujPoh. of S t Cither-nuse . = liPtichors. Fifesliine^ fie ale of Feel ■ =Church of tUheiMicise »11911 st UR 4 Slobs in Chancel JO 0|Dd«J- MARKINCH, FIFESHIRE. £0ut:c0 of §5. QUobwef anb Jfo^n tf>t QtSapftsf. EFORE the Reformation this Church belonged to the Priory of St Andrews. The tower is all that belongs to the original church, and is particularly interesting on account of its being one of the five specimens of pure Norman towers of which mainland Scotland can boast; and these, be it observed, are all located at no great distance from the Markinch example, viz., at Dunning, Muthill, Dunblane and St Andrews. The Markinch specimen is an excellent and nearly perfect one of four unequal stages. The only original entrance has been by a small segmental-headed door on the north side, raised about a foot or so above the ground ; the door leads into a turnpike stair in the north-west corner. Each stage is marked externally by a string course, the two lower ones are orna¬ mented with the common lozenge shaped pattern seen in Norman work, the upper string course is plain and deeply splayed on the under side. The upper stage sets back above the string course, and is therefore narrower on each face than those below, which stand plumb above each other. The second and third stages have each had a small semi-circular headed light in the west side, very deeply splayed within ; they are now built up. The staircase is lighted by small pear shaped slits, with wide internal splays. The upper or belfry stage is pierced on each cardinal face by a window of two narrow lights, with small semi-circular arches resting on a central shaft, and shafted imposts flush with the external wall, the caps and abacus are of the ordinary Norman type. Although the lights appear singly externally, they are enclosed internally by a containing arch (see Plate 2), a peculiarity which does not appear in any of the other examples. The upper portion of the top stage has evidently been rebuilt at a later period, and has a dome- vaulted roof. Mr J. S. Muir says that “ topping it there was originally a low pyramidal stone capping, surmounted by a rod and weathercock, but in 1807 this characteristic feature was removed by a coarse architect to make way for a clumsy lump of masonry which could have been better employed in feeding the starved affair now occupying the site of the original church.” The Parish is now in the Presbytery of St Andrews and Synod of Fife. Near the garden entrance to Balbirnie stands an old weather worn cross about seven feet high, with faint traces of carving on it. The men of Markinch are said to have been warmly attached to the Covenanting cause, in defence of which they spent " lives, lands and gear.” MAY ISLAND. £ f) u r c $ of Jlbrtan. |HE Isle of May is an extra-parochial island of Fife, and contains the ruins of a 13th century chapel dedicated to S. Adrian, who, with 6006 other Hungarians, is said to have been killed by the Danes about 870, and buried here. Wm. F. Skene identifies S. Monan, one of S. Adrian’s followers, with Moinenn, Bishop of Clonfert in the 6th century, whose relics were probably brought from Ireland to Fife by a body of clerics and laymen expelled by the Danes. David I. founded a monastery here before the middle of the 12th century, and granted it to the Benedictine Abbey of Reading, in Berkshire, on condition that they should place and maintain twelve priests therein to say mass for himself and his predecessors and successors. In 1318 all the rights to the Priory of May were transferred to the canons of S. Andrews, when a Priory at Pittenweem seems to have been substituted for that on the island. The chapel, however, appears still to have been main¬ tained out of reverence for S. Adrian and other saints buried here, and great numbers of pilgrims annually visited and worshipped at the shrine. James IV. was a frequent visitor, and is said to have been here, a fortnight before the fatal field of Flodden. The monastery was situated in a hollow near the south-east end of the island, and its chapel was dedicated to All Saints, with altars to S. Ethernan and S. Mary V. The following extract, from a description of S. Adrian’s chapel by Mr T. S. Muir, very well describes it:— “ This solitary fragment, which seemingly has been a chapel, stands nearly due north and south by compass, and measures internally within a few inches of 32 feet in length. From the character of the two windows in the west wall, I should infer that the building is of thirteenth century date. Their tops are cut out of one stone, obtusely pointed, the inner or rear openings arched serni- circularly as in Norman work, and splayed enormously. There is a tall window, as I presume it was, with a round head in the south end, set square in the wall, and another, likewise fashioned, wanting the head, raised in the north end. The only aperture in the east side of the chapel is a ragged gap near its southern extremity, which must have been a doorway. Extending eastward of this, and in a line with the south elevation of the building, there is the foundation of a thick wall, traceable for rather more than forty feet; so that it is evident the doorway in question did not open on the outside, but was an interior communication between the chapel and some larger building, forming in all likelihood the main structure of the ccenobium. “ Since its erection the existing fragment has been subjected to several innovations, though fortunately without being much injured by them. There are—(i) a large press or locker in the upper part of the west wall, by the insertion of which the rear arch of the window nearest the north end has been mutilated ; (2) an oven formed in the bottom of the south window ; (3) a circular tower, pierced near to its base with oillets or shot-holes, partly embrac¬ ing the south-west corner of the chapel ; and (4), a low narrow rectangular building (greatly reduced), showing traces of a vaulted roof running along the entire breadth of the chapel at the north end. The oven is quite a modern interpolation, but the locker, tower, and northern appendage are of some age, and have evidently been contrived for defensive purposes.” Since Mr Muir described it, the chapel has been carefully cleared of all rubbish and the walls pointed. The stone coffin is probably of 13th century date. According to a baseless tradition of modern date, the fragment of a similar coffin, now in the tower of the church of Anstruther Wester, formed part of this coffin in S. Adrian's chapel, and floated across to Anstruther. The font is a much mutilated but interesting bowl, evidently of early date. I he bowl has been square, with a circular orifice and bottom drain ; the holes for fixing the lid are still fairly perfect. It lies within the ruined chapel of S. Adrian. The dimensions are— Diameter of bowl, Depth of bowl, Diameter of orifice, Depth of orifice, . Feet. Inches. 2 4 i 8 1 2 1 2 MONIMAIL, FIFESHIRE. £f$urcf) of r ONIMAIL is a central Parish of Fifeshire, and one of the largest in the shire. The lands of Monimail anciently belonged to the Archbishop of St Andrews, who had a castle here. The keep, known as Melville Tower, still remains standing to the north of Melville House; some of the outer walls of the castle are close up to the boundary wall of the churchyard. The castle was originally built by Bishop William Lamberton, who died in June 1328, and appears to have been enlarged and improved by Cardinal Beaton,—several heads, with a cardinal’s cap, are cut on the parapet of the keep. Archbishop Hamilton resided at the castle during a severe illness, when he is said to have been attended and cured by a famous Italian physician named Cardan. About a mile from the site of the old church is a strong spring of pure water known by the name of Cardan’s Well (now corrupted into Carseiwell), so called, says tradition, because it was by the use of this water that the physician cured the Archbishop. A belief long prevailed as to the medicinal properties of this spring well and it used to be visited by many patients, but now its reputation is gone and its situation almost forgotten. It is a question whether the name Cardan belongs to an early saint of that name, or to the physician above referred to. The village of Letham is the largest in the parish, and also belonged to the Archbishops of St Andrews. The Church of Monimail was originally a mensal church belonging to the Archbishops of St Andrews, and was finally abandoned for a new building, a short distance to the east, about 1796. The original churchyard, however, where many generations of the hamlet sleep, is still in use, and the interior of the old church is appropriated for burial purposes. Little remains of the church the most of the nave has been taken down, but the walls of the chancel are intact up to a height of five feet or so. The width of the chancel is 18 feet, a very common size. A south aisle would seem to have been added, probably at the Reformation. On the north side stands the Leven and Melville burial vault. It was originally open to the church, and was doubtless seated and used by the family, the vault being below. Here rest the mortal remains of several of the family, including the deeply lamented Alexander, Viscount Balgonie. In the floor, over the vault, there is an inscribed slab bearing a shield quartered with the arms of Melville of Raith and Douglas of Lochleven, with the initials D. M. near the top and M. D. near the base, probably for David Melville and Margaret Douglas. Captain David Melville of Newmill, son of Sir John Melville of Raith, and brother of Sir James Melville of Halhill, Queen Mary's Ambassador to the English Court, and Sir Andrew Melville of Garvock, Queen Mary’s Master of the Household, is probably the person commemorated. The inscription is not easily translated, being slightly defective and ungrammatical, but in substance it seems to be somewhat as follows :— o “ Here Melville lies buried in a narrow grave now covered by the turf. [He was] married to a wife of the Douglas family. The illustrious house of Raith mourns him taken from them by death, but he rejoices in the company of saints in Heaven. [He died] in the year of his age 57 - I S 94 -” In the north wall of the chancel there is an arched recess which may have been an Easter sepulchure, but more probably the covert of an effigy. At the east side of the arch there is a small aumbry or tabernacle, with two shields above ; the coroneted one, charged with the lion rampant, seems to be an old form of the Melville arms. The small sanctus bell now calls the village children in Letham to school. The larger church bell was taken down when the church was abandoned, and is said to have had an inscription on it bearing that it had been used from the time of Robert the Bruce. = Church of St ANDREWS, FIFESHIRE. £$urc0 of t§e HIS church, generally known as the Town Church, was originally built in 1112 by Bishop Turgot, and subsequently dedicated to the Holy Trinity by Bishop Bernhame. In Pre-Reformation times it 0 -' had thirty altarages, each served by a separate priest and fifteen choristers. The style of the building was mainly First Pointed. At the end of last century—the church being found to be too small for the congrega¬ tion—extensive alterations, of the usual hideous character of the period, were carried out. The groined roofs over the side aisles were removed, and the outer walls raised nearly to the height of the original clerestory walls ; pro¬ vision was thus obtained for galleries and accommodation for 2500 people. Fortunately the tower remains to give us some idea of the character of the whole. It is of the usual bare unbuttressed Scottish type, with a square out- jutting turret containing a circular newel stair within. The tower measures 23 feet from east to west, and 19 feet 6 inches from north to south, over the walls. The stair turret is lighted by small square headed lights, and is carried up the full height of the tower, with the parapet, which is set on the usual large corbels, returned round it, and a small octagonal turret and spirelet covers the access from the stair to the roof. The tower itself is finished with the usual octagonal spire, of somewhat stunted proportion, and has a small gabled light on each cardinal face. A small ogee headed door, with a segmental rear arch, gives access to the inside of the spire from the parapet. There has apparently been a floor here, and also at various stages below in the tower, as the corbels for carrying the beams shew. The belfry stage on the west front is lighted by a couple of pointed windows, with trefoil heads within the arch ; the hood moulding is of simple type, and terminates in heads. In the north elevation, where the stair turret projects, the light is placed to the one side, and it consists of a rather large pointed light, divided into two by a mullion. The belfry stage is marked horizontally by a projecting string-course. Two circular headed lights on the west face give the tower an appearance of being divided into four unequal stages, but there are no other string-courses or intakes to mark them. It is this well-known peculiarity in Scottish church towers that gives them the appearance of great height, although none of them reach any great altitude. This example measures 74 feet from the base to the top of the parapet. At the ground level on the north side there is a curious opening 12 feet 6 inches high and 1 foot 9 inches wide ; it serves the purpose of a door, but I am rather doubtful about this being the original use or intention ; the arched head, in one stone, is singularly rude and strange looking. Viewed in perspective, the tower looks very well and picturesque. Internally, the south and east faces are carried by moulded circular arches, the angle pillar, which is in line with the others separating the nave from the north aisle, being increased in size to bear the weight; the east arch, for the same reason, has its crown and finish at a lower level than the south arch. Part of the oak stalls remain, and are rather interesting, as are also the offertory plate and communion cups. There is a large, but poor, monument to Archbishop Sharpe ; it was made in Holland. 1 . — Church of the IIo l v TPinih .— —51' Andrews.— T : .f Plan of U p per Slade. r - ■ f g Scale of Feet Plan a? Parape]. dg. f- - Ground Plan. June 1846- S ection looking Soul'll. June I a8b. St ANDREWS, F I F E S H I R E. of Beonarb. iHIS is the church, or chapel rather, erected in connection with S. Il©\ Leonard's College, which was founded by John Hepburn, Prior of S. Andrews, in 1512, during the episcopate of Alexander Stewart, A.D. 1509-1513. Stewart was a natural son of James IV., and was killed with the King at the unfortunate battle of Flodden Field on the 9th September 1513. Prior John Hepburn endowed the new college with the tithes of the parish of S. Leonards, and with other funds. The college being purely a monastic foundation, the Prior and conventual chapter were its patrons, and supplied it with teachers chosen by themselves. Lyon, in his history of S. Andrews says—“ It was originally designed for the education of twenty-four poor students; (the inscription on the original seal of the college runs thus : S. Come, Collegiipauperum Saudi Leonardi ,) but it soon acquired so much repute that many of the sons of the nobility and gentry of Scotland repaired to it. The students, among other accomplishments, were carefully instructed in sacred music, and became so celebrated for their skill in that art that many of them were employed throughout Scotland, after the Reformation, in teaching it.” The chapel is in many ways interesting, and clearly shews, in the character of its architectural details, the late date of its erection. It measures 80 feet 2 inches long, by 20 feet 6 inches in width, inside, and there is no feature marking the chancel from the nave. There has been a west door, and one about the middle of the nave in the south side. An apartment, with arched stone roof, on the north side, may have been a sacristy ; there is a door from it into the chancel, and it also communicates with a narrow arched passage in the thickness of the east wall which extends the full width of the building. Behind the altar two loops communicate with the passage. The mural monu¬ ments and slabs shew the approach of another style of architecture. The mural monument in the north side near the altar, marked B on plan, is to Robert Wilky, who was twenty-one years principal of the college, and enriched it with various gifts and bursaries. He died in 1611. The inscription says of him— A ream ab occidente ccdibus clausit, ab orieute auxit, testamento 4200 mercas pauperibus alendis legavit. The celebrated George Buchanan was for some years principal, having been presented by Queen Mary in 1566. At the era of the Reformation, S. Leonard’s College, though a monastic institution, was distinguished for its opposition to Popery ; so that, to have “ drunk of S. Leonard's Well ” became a proverbial phrase for having imbibed the reformed opinions. i. =■ Church of st. Leonard —■ “ ST. Andrews — Transverse Section looking JEaST 4 4Wr IV 1 T m rVWS ,4^'- -V : -i 1 WesI Elevation South E levaTion St. Andrews .-Kt^ i: iilfe ■ Church of ST. Leonard ^ — SrAndrews.= 'T- - — - £ teBHTAHi©. * Vi|i»rwr^r^r.iinaa^aB - ... .. ■■, .uutbim&tSiSSS^SSihm^^m fwm‘ AM SMV. r r mE^ : m€t$-ZS’VA^WEW&VEREUNQM© m NWM OVEo:M MEMETSCES aVEREMM&VE • • !!'i! r Pfr=Sr llh ■—?• A-—4- =Eli : fr^=^=- T/levaTion of Monument A. on Plan Plan ■Scale of -t*u±l TPeeT St ANDREWS, FIFESHIRE. £$urc() of Qllavp on 'jfyiii. PChE foundations of this early church were cleared in i860 ; before this time all traces of it had been lost. The chancel measures 47 feet in V length, by 20 feet wide, inside, and inclines to the north of east, the short nave being due east and west. Very little of the transepts remain. The style of the building has evidently been early 13th century Gothic. This was the church of the provostry of Kirkheugh, or the Prcspositura Sanctcs Maries de Rape. Martine says (writing about 1683), that the manse of the provost of Kirkheugh was still standing “ on a little height above the shore of S. Andrews, now in no good repair,” and that “ a little north from it were to be seen the ruins of old buildings, which were the chapel itself.” Grierson, in his “ Delineations of S. Andrews,” published about 1830, states that part of the old gable, with the door entire, was still standing in 1801, and only then fell. This church is supposed to have taken the place of a very old chapel, known as the church of S. Mary on the Rock, which is said to have stood on the Lady’s Craig, a reef near the pier. Martine says of it—“ As to the Culdees at S. Andrews, there goes a tradition in this place that the Culdees of old, at least Regulus and his companions, had a cell dedicated to the Blessed Virgin, about a bow-flight east of the shore of S. Andrews, a little without the end of the pier (now within the sea), upon a rock called at this day our Lady s Craig ; the rock is well known, and seen every day at low water ; and upon the sea’s encroaching, they built another house at, or near the place, where the house of the Kirkheugh now stands, called Sta. Maria de Rupe, with St Rule’s chapel." The slab within the chancel is evidently of pretty early date, and is care¬ fully protected by an iron railing ; would I could say as much for other and finer slabs in the neighbourhood and elsewhere. St ANDREWS, FIFESHIRE. of §&. (Regwfug. iHIS beautiful and interesting church, like the Abernethy Round Tower, is well known, and has been often described. The question as to whether the tower is a central or western one has always been ^ an open one, and I presume always will. Even the late Sir Gilbert Scott, one of the most accomplished architects of recent times, was undecided, although in the main he favoured the opinion that it is a western tower. On the other hand, Mr T. S. Muir—by no means a poor authority— has no hesitation in deciding it to be a central tower. For my own part I must say, with all diffidence, I cannot see anything about the plan of the chapel to lead me to think it a central tower, and I think it is a western tower, and had originally a lofty western porch. Sir Gilbert Scott is equally undecided as to the date of erection ; he imagines it to be anterior to the introduction of Norman architecture into England, and remarks that it stands side by side with the cathedral, just as the church of S. Cormac does with the cathedral at Cashel, and also that the capitals of the shafts closely resemble those of S. Pantaleon at Cologne, which are of the ioth century. Dr Joseph Anderson, in “Scotland in Early Christian Times,” quotes Scott s remarks, and points out that Cormac’s chapel was built in the 12th century—“so that the date assignable to S. Regulus, whether by conjecture or by the analogy of probabilities, would be somewhere within the limits of these three centuries. He then goes on to say—“Whatever may be its precise date, S. Regulus belongs to the most advanced type of chancelled churches, consisting of nave, chancel, and apse ; and though it is the only example of this advanced type which is of unassigned date in Scotland, its typical form links it on with the group of twelfth century churches.” Dr John Stuart unhesitatingly ascribes its erection to Bishop Robert, between 1127 and 1144. on what authority I know not, but I am entirely at one with him as to the likely date. I make the height of the tower from base to parapet 109 feet 10 inches. The drawings otherwise, I hope, clearly shew and explain this fine specimen of early art. I may mention that all the beds and joints of the stones were carefully put in on the drawings on the spot. On Plate 4 I shew drawings of the chapter seal, of date 1204 and 1214. I am greatly indebted to Canon Greenwell of Durham for sending me these seals, for examination, which are attached to very valuable church documents. or boi 3 frmth. ElevgUorC. jE>cale of "Feel: > I ! /iutru^t' I88S. 4 . Tloplh. 'EleVati.on 10 ^ ^ |J> ^ |Q | to |2° =3^= f 40 _I 50 ' S^ocile of'Feeh . i»g,y. /^utju,£ t 1885. G. - Clxupoh, of ^Kog-uliiji. r = Tower 1 Wind ovvjs . D To wee Purabet. n 11 1 CforbeL Course. < Cihaneel Windows. \ Tiiside KleVa l ioix. 3 G /v- ,* , f»calc for Wi ndows. gT t^d nlnl =T'- I 1 —|+ : % o forOrscK, Posher.?* (jor 6 ^^. # l *rft ■ I *, .ft . < *- ■■ f locate For niche. 1 - " • U 85 . St ANDREWS, FIFESHIRE. £0utc0 of ^afpafov. HIS Church, generally called the College Church, was founded by W Bishop James Kennedy in 1456, for a provost and prebendaries, •fei (Archbishop Sherez added another in 1490). Bishop Kennedy was the last who died with that title, the See having been made metro- ■>$ politan under his successor. In the first foundation-charter, which was confirmed by Pope Nicholas V., the College is said to be built for Theology and the liberal Arts. It was dedicated to the honour of God, of our Saviour, and the Virgin Mary, and was named S. Salvator's College. The second foundation-charter, which differs a good deal from the first, is dated at the Castle of St Andrews, 5th April 1458. Bishop Kennedy endowed the College with the teinds of the parishes of Cults, Kemback, Denino, Forteviot, and Kilmany, and some chapelries, all of which had, until then, belonged to the bishopric. This distinguished prelate was much lamented after his death ; Buchanan, whose prepossessions were certainly not in favour of the Church of which Kennedy was the head, writes of his virtues in the highest terms, he says—“ His death was so deeply lamented by all good men that the country seemed to weep for him as for a public parent. He held the offices of one of the Lords of the Regency and guardian to James III., until his death, and his conduct obtained the approbation of the whole Kingdom, as well as that of the young prince himself, who always styled him Canssunus avunculus noster. Kennedy also founded and endowed the Monastery of Franciscan, or Grey Friars, near the market gate of the Market Street, and it was finished by his successor, Archbishop Graham, in 1478. It was destroyed by the Reformers in 1559, and the only trace of it left is the name “ Greyfriars Garden, which is still given to the site. The Bishop also built a barge, called the S. Salvator, for the purpose of commerce ; Martin calls it “ a vast ship of great burden ; she remained the property of the See after his death, and was wrecked in the year 1472 near Bamburgh, and plundered by the English of a valuable cargo brought from Flanders. Lyon, in his History of St Andrews, says “ The bishop's barge, his own monument, his college, and his monastery, cost no less a sum than ^300,000 of our present money.’’ The Church of S. Salvator is an oblong of seven bays, with a trigonal east end and south-west porch, and a tower about 26 feet square at the south¬ west corner. The archways in the tower give access to the College square, but there is no entrance between it and the Church. The tower is rather a lofty specimen, measuring fully 117 feet from the ground to the top of the parapet; it is divided into two stages, the lower having several small square headed lights placed above each other, and the upper stage is filled in with two long coupled lancets with cusped heads, and similar cusped heads are introduced half-way up the lights. The corbels supporting the parapet are of the ordinary character; the parapet itself seems to have been built when the church was restored, as Billings shews the tower without any parapet, and the broach spire springing straight from the top of the tower,—the height of the spire is about 28 feet; it is built with a very marked entasis and divided into three stages by string courses, the centre stage has a small dormer light on each cardinal face, and the upper stage a smaller opening on the four octagonal faces. From the summit of the tower, the “ Prior of Capora ” and his French troops battered the Castle in 1547. There are no lights in the north or west walls of the church, it being wholly lighted from the south and east. Each bay is marked externally by boldly designed buttresses, with canopied niches in the face of each, and finished with gabled pinnacles carried up above the corbelled parapet, and each bay is filled in with a three light window, with traceried head, moulded jambs, and hood over ; every alternate window is the same, with the exception of the centre window in the east end, which is higher, and has the head filled in with tracery of a different type. The south-west porch is a fine one ; the inner door has a trigonal head, and boldly moulded jambs and lintel (see Plate 4), which clearly shews the whole detail. In the north-east corner there is a holy water stoup. The north door has also a trigonal head inside. The dedication cross shewn on Plate 6 is from the east wall of the tower, inside, on the ground floor. Internally, the proportion of the church is long for its width, viz., 107 feet by 28 feet. The most beautiful feature left inside is the Tomb of the Founder, resembling a round church cut in twain, and beautifully decorated with niches and other Gothic features. It stands on the north side of the church, opposite to where the altar stood. An epitaph is discernible upon it, consisting of two lines, but it has been much defaced and is altogether illegible. The top, according to Grierson, was “ ornamented by a representation of our Saviour, with angels around, and the instruments of the passion.” The Bishop died in 1466, and was embalmed with spices and buried in this tomb. I have devoted Plates 15 to 22 to the representation of this fine monument. Tradition states that in 1683 six magnificent maces were found in it, three are kept in the College, and one was presented to each of the other three Scottish Universities, viz., Aberdeen, Glasgow, and Edinburgh. One of great elegance, and of which the others seem copies, is in the College of St Andrews ; it is ornamented with beautiful Gothic workmanship of the same character as the tomb. Appended to it is the following inscription :—“ Jacobus Kennedy, illustris Sancti Andreas Antistes, ac foundator collegii Sti Salvatoris, qui me donavit me fecit fieri Parisiis, an. dom. MIIIILXI.” The roof of the church, which is said to have been of beautiful Gothic work, was thought to be giving way about a century ago, and it was deter¬ mined to take it down, but either from want of skill or wicked intention, it w'as simply cut at the wall heads and allowed to drop, carrying ruin and destruction along with it, and defacing Kennedy’s tomb. The pulpit, which originally stood in the Parish Church, is a fine one, and is known as John Knox’s pulpit. The bells, Plates 8 and 9, are very good specimens. The celebrated physician, Pitcairn, the first medical professor in the University of Edinburgh, is buried within the church. St. Andrews. Flan of U p per Stag e. Scale for 3 X)etoilp . Ji^ue >3calc for* BcU. 1886. InscpTbfTon pound botiom S cale, — Plan — -(jr Plan, at - ft, r . Plan al* Cl. — Scale of- Feetv = Pliurdi of 5^ ■><_ilv(ihii~. —- < ludrcw ','. — l.loiiliI', of lAi-.l !<>[.> Kennedy 1 ^ flUmt — - CL~ -Jl- — Section — — Detail, of Side Canopies. — Church of I'xiUiihir CLnclreWs DetaiL of Piscina. ? Tabernacle C a W in ami fri lexahou- Un-bTTIouUl Ctupint] Jamb of I^tscma £>cq 1 c. Jr' . fi 1 Side fllcM ilrion. oj*- r’lilj.M r. - = Church oF-Sir Saliiuhor == —^>tv Unciiva‘>. = lOelrculoJ* Cobe uY H — —De rail, oj- J^u lu^tei- — — £ec — St MONANCE, anciently Abercrombie, FIFESHIRE. of Qtto nance. [IS fine specimen of middle pointed Gothic stands close to the sea, at the mouth of the Dreel burn, and surrounded by the churchyard. Mr W. F. Skene, in his “ Celtic Scotland,” identifies the patron saint Monanus with Moinenn, Bishop of Clonfert, who died in 571, holds that his relics were brought from Ireland to Fife about the year 845, and deposited in a church built to his honour. According to the legend of St Adrian, however, Monannus was born in Pannonia, a province of Hungary, preached the Gospel at Abercrombie, and was enshrined there after his martyrdom. Another historian identifies Monennius with St Ninian of Whithorn, who is called Nynias by Bede, and is identified by the Irish antiquaries with their Monennius. This theory would seem to be confirmed by the fact that some writers, in alluding to the miraculous cure of King David, and to the church which he founded, call its patron St Ninian. David II. is said to have founded the present church in or about 1362, as a thanks offering, he having been freed from a barbed arrow received at the battle of Neville’s Cross in 1346, while praying before the tomb of St Monan. Another writer, Dr Rogers, states in the “ Register of the Collegiate Church of Crail ’’ that the Church of St Monan’s was erected at the cost of David II., to denote his gratitude to God for being preserved in a storm which overtook him and his Queen, Margaret of Logie, when crossing the firth to visit William de Dischington at Ardross, and also states that this William was the architect of the Castle of Ardross, of the Church of St Monan’s, and probably of the Church at Crail. The Chamberlain’s Rolls contain various entries, dating from 1362 to 1370, of payments made to Sir William de Dysschyntoun, Knyt, Sheriff of Fife, for the erection of the building, and in the year 1369, Adam the Carpenter received £ 6 , 13s. 4d. in part payment of his services and labour in the work. James III. bestowed the Church upon the Dominicans or Black Friars at the solicitation of Friar John Muir. It was partly destroyed by the English in 1544, and was renovated in 1772 and 1828. It now serves as the Parish Church, and is seated for 528 worshippers. Muir, in his “ Parochial and Collegiate Churches of Scotland,” says— “ The restorations, alterations, and additions that were then made (in 1828), although anything but correct either in style or material, on the whole manifest really so much of a friendly and well-intentioned regard for the preservation of the ancient character of the structure, as cannot but agreeably surprise any one who, while wandering through the rural districts of Scotland, has marked the sad treatment which the old devotional temples in general have received at the hands of incompetent architects and their employers.” I quite agree with him. It is uncertain whether a nave, or part of one, ever existed ; the west elevation has mostly been rebuilt, and shews no trace of building west of the tower. As the church stands, it comprises a chancel of four bays, measuring 50 feet 8 inches in length, and 22 feet 9 inches in width. South transept, 17 feet 9 inches long and 18 feet wide ; north transept, 17 feet 6 inches long and 18 feet wide, and tower at the intersection, 21 feet 3 inches east and west, by 16 feet north and south, inside ; the total length inside being 71 feet 8 inches from east to west, and 66 feet 6 inches across the transept from north to south. The south wall of the chancel has a large pointed window in each bay, the three eastmost having four lights, and the other three lights, the heads are filled in with looped and cusped tracery, the jambs are splayed, and are composed of two shallow rolls and a hollow; the north wall has two similar windows, one in the east bay and one in the west; a modern building, fitted up as a vestry, occupies nearly the whole of the two centre bays. The only original door is in the north side, the jambs are splayed, but the arch is moulded, the mouldings dying out at the springing of the arch. The east end, which is square, has two windows, each of two lights, with an external buttress running up between them, and high up, just above the buttress, there is a small light with a segmental arch, and the whole space filled in with loop tracery. In the centre of the north wall of the north transept, there is a window of three lights ; the south wall of the south transept is divided by a centre buttress, and on each side of it there is a small window of two lights,— they seem to be the oldest feature in the building, and are rather peculiar,— each is formed of two narrow lights with lancet heads, without cusping, springing from the chamfered monial, the spandrel above is filled in with an elongated quatrefoil, the whole window head being cut out of one stone, and set within a deeply splayed, round headed containing arch. Close to the east end of the south wall of the chancel there is a piscina, or aumbry, with moulded jambs and arch cusped inside,—there is no drain and no shelf; to the west of it, in the same wall, there is a sedilia for three persons, a large outer roll is carried round the edge of the recess, and a smaller one next it branches off fully half way up, and forms the leading moulding in the traceried head, which is divided into three ogee cusped canopied compartments, the spandrel spaces above being filled in with elongated trefoils cusped ; the seat at present is fully four feet above the floor,—the floor was lowered about two feet in 1828. The roof is vaulted with shields bearing heraldic devices at the intersection of the ribs. Within the tower the transept arches are double, the inner ones, carrying the tower walls, spring away from the east and west walls without any shafting; the capitals to all the shafts throughout are simply moulded, as are the bases, which have a heavy sloping base on a semi-octagonal plinth. The tower has rather a squat stunted appearance, but this is partly, if not altogether, due to the pitch of the chancel roof, which is higher than usual ; the tower has a heavy moulded parapet, and a low octagonal spire springs from it, having small lights on each cardinal face. Muir states the orientation as being- east by north. I gi\e two views of the Church, one by Adam de Cardonnel, and one by R. Nasmyth drawn in 1807. Both shew the transepts unroofed, and a large western door, but no signs of a nave, or part of one. Church- of S* Muumtce Church of S* IHotuiticc ™ Jt 1 ifcshire — lo Jixmb mold Clturoli irf S* Itlononce — 5tq.tr LUjhts ~'Ftfeshtre — FI _ (Eccfestaeftcaf ;Jounfcafion0 in ^tfesfHre ABBOTSHALL.—Created a parish about 1674. It received its name from a hall or pleasaunce of the Abbots of Dunfermline, which stood west of the church. Chapel. —There was anciently a chapel here, hence the name. ABDIE.—Consecrated 1242, dedicated to S. Macgidrin or Adrian. Prior to the Reformation it belonged to Lindores Abbey. ABERDOUR.—Consecrated 1178, dedicated to S. Fillan. Prior to the Reformation it belonged to the Abbey of Inchcolm. Nunnery , founded 1474, dedicated to S. Martha. Hospital , founded 1487, dedicated to S. S. Mary V. and Peter Ap. Beaupre, now corrupted into Bowprie. Mention is made of a chapel here as early as the year 1320. The place was, at that time, known as the Grange of Beauprd ABERNETHY, partly in Fifeshire, dedicated to S. Bridget V. Abs. At Abernethy, according to the Pictish chronicle, Nectan Morbet, third of the shadowy line of early Pictish Kings, founded a church here in honour of S. Bridget of Kildare about 462,—a legend inconsistent with the known date of her death (525). “ Under the influence of Columba's teaching, Gartnaidh, ‘ supreme King of the Tay,’ founded or refounded here a church for Columban monks, dedicated, like its alleged pre¬ decessor, to S. Bridget, some time between 584 and 596. In 717 the Columban monks were doubtless expelled from Abernethy by Nectan III. for nonconformity to Rome; but in 865 we find it once more occupied by Irish clergy, as in that year it seems to have been visited and reorganised by Cellach, Abbot both of Iona and of the mother church of Kildare. From that year too, on to 908, Abernethy was at once the episcopal and the royal capital of the whole Pictish kingdom, Constantin, son of Kenneth Mac Alpin, having translated the whole bishopric hither from Dunkeld. Three bishops held the see, whose transference to S. Andrews under Constantin, King of Alban, stripped ii Abernethy of much of its former importance, the single epoch in its after-history being the homage paid at it in 1072 to the Conqueror by Malcolm Ceannmor, who came and made peace with King William, and gave hostages and became his man ; and the King went home with all his forces.” Culdees are first heard of at Abernethy during the reign of Eadgar (1097-1107), but it does not appear how long they had been introduced. They were holding the possessions of the ancient nunnery between 1189 and 1199, but the church and its pertinents had been granted by William the Lyon to Arbroath Abbey, to whose monks the lay Abbot of Abernethy now conveyed his abbatical rights, while retain¬ ing his lands, becoming thus a secular baron and founder of the house of Abernethy. A dispute in the succeeding century between Arbroath and these Culdees was decided by the Bishop of Dunblane against the latter, who in 1272 were converted into a priory of Canons Regular of S. Augustine. Chapel.— Mentioned by Adam King as existing in his day. ANSTRUTHER, Wester.—Consecrated 1243. ANSTRLTHER, Easter.—The parish church of Easter Anstruther was built 1634-44. AUCHTERDERRAN.—Founded 1093, dedicated to S. Serf Ab. The ancient church of Auchterderran was given by Fothad, last Bishop of Alban, to God, S. Serf, and the hermit Culdees of Lochleven. AUCHTERMUCHTY.—Consecrated 1245, dedicated to the Holy Trinity. Prior to the Reformation it belonged to the Abbey of Lindores. AUCHTERTOOL.—The church belonged to the Bishop of Dunkeld. BALLINGRY.—The present church was built in 1831. BALMERINO.—The present church, built in 1811, succeeded one built at Kirkton in 1595, when the Abbey Church was disused. Abbey.— Founded in 1227, dedicated to S. S. Mary V. and Edward C. A Cistercian Abbey founded by Ermengarda, widow of William the Lyon ; she was buried before the high altar in 1233. Mains.— Chapel here, dedicated to S. Alus or Ayle. Naughton.— Chapel here, dedicated to S. John. Seamylnes.— Chapel here, dedicated to S. Thomas C. BEATH. Prior to the Reformation it belonged to the Abbey of Inchcolm. The Kirk was the first place of meeting that the Protestant Lords iii of Scotland had for the Covenant and Reformation, it fell into disuse about 1640, and was rebuilt by Mr Alexander Colville of Blair, who was mightily stirred by beholding from his own window the piping and dancing of the poor people on the Sabbath, their revelling and debauch¬ ing, drinking, excess and riot,—the younger men playing at football, falling out and wounding one another, and the older sort playing at games and the works of their several callings. BURNTISLAND.—Dedicated to S. Adamnan ? Kirkton. —Consecrated 1243, dedicated to S. Serf Ab. Burntisland belonged anciently to Dunfermline Abbey, and was exchanged by James V. in 1541 for some lands in the neighbourhood, that he might erect it into a royal burgh. The parish was originally called Wester Kinghorn. CAMERON.—Disjoined from S. Andrews parish in 1645. CARNBEE.—The parish church was erected in 1793. CARNOCK.—The church belonged to the ministry of Scotland Well. CERES.—Dedicated to S. Cyr or Quiricus M. Prior to the Reformation it belonged to the Provostry of Kirkheugh. COLLESSIE.—Consecrated 1243. Prior to the Reformation it belonged to the Abbey of Lindores. CRAIL.—Dedicated to S. Maelrubha H. Held until 1517 by the Cistercian Nunnery of Haddington. The prioress and Sir William Myreton then made it collegiate for a provost, ten prebendaries, a sacrist and choristers. Just before the Reformation it belonged to S. Salvator’s College, S. Andrews. Castle. —Chapel dedicated to S. Rufus. Priory. —Dedicated to S. Rufus ; site now known as the Prior Walls. Kilwinning Farm. —Chapel, dedicated to S. Monan. CREICH.—Dedicated to S. Devenic. Prior to the Reformation it belonged to the Abbey of Lindores. CULTS, formerly Quylt.—Consecrated in 1243. Prior to the Reformation it belonged to S. Salvator’s College, S. Andrews. CUPAR.—Dedicated to S. Mary V. Tarvit. —Dedicated to S. Michael Arch. The parishes of Cupar and Tarvit were united in 1618. The original parish church of Cupar stood three furlongs N.W. of the town, but within the old walls, on a rising ground IV near Springfield House; became a ruin in the early part of the 15th century, and was completely obliterated in 1759. Its successor, in Kirkgate Street, built in 1415, was a Gothic structure of some preten¬ sion, measuring 133 feet in length by 54 feet in width ; it, too, fell into decay, and was taken down in 1785, with the exception of the tower and part of the north aisle, which still stand. Tarvit parish church, on the south side of the Eden, crowned a small conical eminence—S. Michael’s Hill—now mostly covered with a plantation sheltering the N.E. entrance to Tarvit House. After the parishes were united, Cupar parish church took the name of S. Michael, according to some authorities. Dominican Priory. —Dedicated to S. Mary V. Founded by one of the Earls of Fife, and annexed to S. Andrews by James V. Kilmaron.— There was anciently a chapel here. DAIRSIE.—Consecrated 1243, dedicated to S. Mary V. The present church was “ built and adorned after the decent English fashion " by Arch¬ bishop Spottiswoode in 1621. It belonged to the Priory of S. Andrews. DALGETY.—Dedicated to S. Bridget V. Abs. The church dates from the 12th century. Prior to the Reformation it belonged to the Abbey of Inchcolm. Fordell.— Probably dedicated to S. Thereota ? now corrupted into S. Cereot. The present chapel was built about 1633. DUNBOG.—Prior to the Reformation it belonged to the Abbey of Arbroath. Dunbog House is built on the site of a Preceptory of the Monks of Balmerino, said, but not on good authority, to have been built by Cardinal Bethune. Dunmore.— The ruins of a small interesting chapel still remain. DUNFERMLINE. Abbey. Dedicated to the Holy Trinity. Founded in 1072 by Malcolm Ceannmor. It was endowed both by that King and his sons, Ethelred and Eadgor, and was completed and further endowed by Alexander I. in 11 15. It was remodelled in 1124, as a Benedictine Abbey, by David I., who placed in it an Abbot and twelve brethren brought from Canterbury. AImshotise and Chapel , dedicated to S. Catherine V. M. V Queensferry, N.—Dedicated to S. James Ap. In 1323 this chapel was given to the Abbey of Dunfermline by William, Bishop of S. Andrews. Garvock. —Dedicated to S. John the Evan. DUNINO.—Prior to the Reformation it belonged to S. Salvator’s College, S. Andrews. Nunnery .—An ancient nunnery stood on the highest ground in the parish, whence its ruins were removed in 1815. DYSART.—Consecrated 1245, dedicated to S. Serf or Servanus Ab. Priory of Black Friars, dedicated to S. Denis P. M., or M. Bp. ELIE, down to 1639, was part of the parish of Kilconquhar, when it was created a parish by Sir William Scott of Ardross. FALKLAND, anciently Kilgour.—Kilgour, 2J miles W. by N. of Falkland, was the site of the ancient parish church. Prior to the Reformation it belonged to the Priory of S. Andrews, and was granted to it by the Earl of Fife in 1318. FERRY-PORT-ON-CRAIG.—Constituted in 1606, was formerly part of Leuchars parish. FLISK.—Consecrated 1242, dedicated to S. Adrian. Flisk was one of the eight rectories in Fife at the Reformation, all the others being vicarages. FORGAN.—Consecrated 1124, dedicated to S. Fillan. Before the Reforma¬ tion it belonged to the Priory of S. Andrews. INVERKEITHING.—Dedicated to'S. Peter Ap. It was bequeathed in 1139 to Dunfermline Abbey by Waldeve, son of Gospatrick. Rosyth, an ancient parish, now annexed to Inverkeithing. The church belonged to the Abbey of Inchcolm. KEMBACK.—Prior to the Reformation it belonged to S. Salvator’s College, S. Andrews. KENNOWAY.'—Dedicated to S. Cainnichi or Kenneth. It belonged to the Priory of S. Andrews. KING’S KETTLE.—Consecrated 1243, dedicated to S. S. John the Evan., and Ethernascus. The parish was anciently known as Lathrisk, and down to about 1636 the church stood on the lands of Lathrisk. It belonged to the Priory of S. Andrews. Clatto. —There was a chapel here. Chapel Kater. —There was a chapel here. VI KILCONQUHAR.—Consecrated 1243, dedicated to S. Monan. KILMANY.—Prior to the Reformation it belonged to S. Salvators College, S. Andrews. KILRENNY.—Consecrated 1243, dedicated to S. Irenmus or Ninian Bp. KINGHORN. Dedicated to S. Leonard C. H. Prior to the Reformation it belonged to the Abbey of Dunfermline. Ikchkeith.— Dedicated to S. Adamnan. KINGLASSIE. Dedicated to S. Glasciannus. Prior to the Reformation it belonged to the Abbey of Dunfermline. KIXGSBARNS. The lands belonged to Crail parish until 1631, when it was constituted a separate parish. The church was built in 1631. KIRKCALDY.—Consecrated 1244, dedicated to S. Patrick Britius or Brisse, B. C. LARGO.—Prior to the Reformation it belonged to the Cistercian Nunnery of North Berwick. LESLIE, anciently called Fithkil.—Prior to the Reformation it belonged to the Abbey of Inchcolm. Chapel. —Dedicated to S. Mary V. LEI CHARS.—Consecrated 1244, dedicated to S. Athernase. The “ Ecclesia de Lochres is mentioned in a confirmatory bull by Pope Gregory, in the year 1187, of certain ecclesiastical temporalities bestowed on the Priory of S. Andrews. In the days of William the Lion, Nesius de Quincy conferred the church of Leuchars upon the Priory. Chapel.— Dedicated to S. Bennet, stood on the site of the parish school. Easter Tron. —There was a chapel here. Airdit. —There was a chapel here. LOGIE.—Prior to the Reformation it belonged to the Abbey of Balmerino. MARKINCH.—Consecrated 1243, dedicated to S. S. John the Baptist and Modrust. There was a Culdee cell here. The church, previous to the Reformation, belonged to the Priory of S. Andrews. Balbirnie. Dedicated to S. Brandan. Kirkforthar. —There was a chapel here. MAY ISLAND OF.—An extra-parochial parish, claimed by Crail and by Anstruther ; dedicated to S. Adrian. S. Adrian is said to have been vii killed here, about 870, by the Danes. David I. founded a monastery here before the middle of the 12th century, and granted it to the Benedictine Abbey of Reading, in Berkshire, on condition that they should place and maintain twelve priests therein, to say mass for himself and his predecessors and successors, in 1318 all the rights to the Priory of May were transferred to the canons of S. Andrews, when a Priory at Pittenweem seems to have been substituted for that on the island. MONIMAIL.—Prior to the Reformation it was a mensal church of the Archbishops of S. Andrews. The adjoining palace, of which there are some remains, was originally built by Bishop William Lamberton, who died in 1328. It was enlarged and improved by Cardinal Beaton, and was the residence of Archbishop Hamilton during a severe illness, when he was attended and cured by the famous physician Cardan. MOONZIE.—Consecrated 1245. The church and teinds of the parish of Moonzie were gifted by Bishop Malvoisin to a religious fraternity at Scotland Well, in Kinross-shire. About 1564 Moonzie was conjoined with Cupar, but only for a few years, when it was again made a separate parish. NEWBURGH.—Dedicated to S. Catherine. The parish was disjoined from Abdie in 1632. NEWBURN, anciently Drumeldrie.—The Culdees are said to have had a church here ; King Malcolm granted them the lands of Balchrystie. PITTENWEEM.—The parish church is partly a structure of the first half of the 17th century. The parish became independent about 1588. The church was probably dedicated to S. Fillan. There are a well and cave associated with the saint’s name. Priory. —Dedicated to S. Mary V., dates from about 1114, and was founded for Canons Regular, and belonged to the Priory of S. Andrews. S. ANDREWS.—Dedicated to the Holy Trinity. The parish church was first built in 1112 by Bishop Turgot, and subsequently dedicated by Bishop David de Bernhame. Cathedral .—Dedicated to S. Andrew Ap. The building was begun by Bishop Arnold (1159-1162) in 1159, but was not finished till the time of Bishop Lamberton (1297-1328) in 1318, the work having been carried on by eleven successive bishops. viii Church. —Dedicated to S. Regulus. It probably occupies the site of the older Culdee Cell. The probable date of the existing building is 1144. College Church. —S. Salvator. Founded by Bishop James Kennedy in 1456 for a provost and prebendaries. It was dedicated to the honour of God, of our ’Saviour, and the Virgin Mary, and was named S'. Salvator’s College. College Chapel. —Dedicated to S. Leonard. Culdee Chapel. —Dedicated to S. Mary V. Known as the chapel of “ S. Mary on the Rock,” possibly the first erected by the Culdees ; it stood on the Lady’s Craig, a reef of rock behind the pier. Chapel of the King of Scotland on the Hill. —Dedicated to S. Mary V. Stood on the Kirk Heugh, immediately west of the harbour; the foundations were cleared in i860. Augustinian Priory or Monastery. —Founded by Bishop Robert (1126- 1158) in 1144 ; stood to the south of the Cathedral, now extinct. Dominican Monastery. —Founded in 1274 by Bishop Wishart (1273-1279), and was governed by a Prior who was not subject to the Episcopal control. The ruin of the north transept still stands in South Street, in front of the Madras College. Observantine or Greyfriars Monastery. —Stood north of the West Port, at the west end of Market Street. It was founded about 1450 by Bishop James Kennedy, and it was completed in 1478 by Bishop Grahame (1466-1478). It was governed by a warden. S. MONANCE, anciently Abercrombie.—Dedicated to S. Monan. Mr W. F. Skene identifies Monanus with Moinenn, Bishop of Clonfert (d. 571), and holds that his relics were brought from Ireland about 845, and deposited in a church erected to his honour. David II. founded the present church at S. Monance about 1362, and a century later James III. bestowed it on the Dominican Monastery of S. Andrews. The ruins remain of the church of Abercrombie. SALINE.—Was “ ane common Kirk of Dunkeld.” SCOONIE.—Consecrated 1243, dedicated to S. Memma. STRATHMIGLO.—Dedicated to S. Martin. Prior to the Reformation it belonged to the Bishops of Dunkeld. Gateside. —Dedicated to S. Mary V. ix TORRYBURN AND CROMBIE.—The ruins of a chapel remain at Crombie. WEMYSS.—Dedicated to S. Cuthbert. It belonged to Trinity College, Edinburgh. Chapel Garden. —There was a chapel here. Methilhill. —There was a chapel here. (Bccfeetaaftcaf ^ounMftone tn "Rmroee^mi. ARNGASK.—The original church was a private chapel of the Balvaird family, and in 1282 was granted to Cambuskenneth Abbey. CLEISH.—The church was rebuilt in 1832. FOSSAWAY AND TULLIBOLE.—United in 1614. The parish church was rebuilt in 1806. KINROSS.—Consecrated in 1246. S. Serf’s Island, Lochleven. —Dedicated to S. Serf or Servanus Ab. According to the Register of S. Andrews, the island was given by Brude, King of the Piets, in the early part of the 9th century, to God, S. Servan, and the Culdee hermits serving God there ; and the posses¬ sions of the community were increased by various grants from different Kings, and some of the Bishops of S. Andrews. Prior to 961, the brethren had given up the island to the Bishop of S. Andrews, so long as he should provide them with food and raiment; and in 1144, or shortly after, Bishop Robert handed the island, and all their other possessions, to the newly founded order of Canons Regular of S. Andrews, and King David granted a charter conferring the island on the Canons, who held the place and priory till the Reformation. ORWELL.—The chapel stood close to the shore of Lochleven, and is said to have been given to the Abbey of Dunfermline by Robert the Bruce in 1315. Sibbald, in his history of Fife, says—“ in puram et perpetuam eleemosynam, Ecclesiam de Kinross cum capella de Urwell.” It is also said to have belonged at one time to the Collegiate Church at Dalkeith. PORTMOAK.—Dedicated to S. S. Stephen and Moak. Before the Refor¬ mation it belonged to the Priory of S. Andrews. Scotland Well.— There was a monastery here. The ruins of a chapel still exist. PlrAH OF The Church of St Brisse K)^KC/tux>X- PAS SESSION ^ HOUSE \ IB Jjiit | GREAT | PORCH |j Built 1618 ^ 1 I fN" I L. I Fretw H=f H EAST PORCH Table of Reference A. Magistrates Stair, built /6S6 B. Tailors Stj so Tret