k 
 
THE 
 
 TOPOGRAPHY OF TROY, 
 
 AND ITS VICINITY; 
 
 ILLUSTRATED AND EXPLAINED 
 
 BY 
 
 DRAWINGS AND DESCRIPTIONS. 
 
 DEDICATED, BY PERMISSION, 
 
 TO 
 
 HER GRACE THE DUCHESS OF DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 W. GELL, ESQ. op JESUS COLLEGE, M.A. F.A.S. 
 
 AND LATE FELLOW OF EMMANUEL COLLEGE, CAMBRIDGE. 
 
 . MMAP '^TAN POT' OAUMHI JAlOt ’| PH 
 Sfjfcl PP'IAWOI AAO< EYMMEAICO PP1&MOIO . 
 
 I A . A . fZ A . 
 
 LONDON. 
 
 PRINTED BY C. WIHTTINGHAM, DEAN STREET, 
 
 FOR T. N. LONGMAN AND O. REES, PATERNOSTER-ROW. 
 
TO 
 
 HER GRACE 
 
 THE DUCHESS OF DEVONSHIRE. 
 
 MADAM, 
 
 It is with great satisfaction that I am enabled 
 to send yon some description of a country, on the subject 
 of which you were pleased to express an interest highly 
 gratifying to my mind. 
 
 To have succeeded in pointing out a close connexion 
 between the Poem and the Scene of the Iliad, and thereby 
 contributed towards the amusement of those leisure hours, 
 which you are sometimes enabled to borrow from the more 
 serious duties of life, and the charms of polished society, 
 is the sincere wish of, 
 
 MADAM, 
 
 Your Grace’s 
 Most obliged 
 
 and devoted Servant, 
 
 WILLIAM CELL. 
 
INTRODUCTION. 
 
 The Voyage, of which the following pages are the result, had for its 
 principal object, the examination of that part of the Troad, which is 
 more particularly connected with the Iliad of Homer. 
 
 The controversy on the subject of Troy, which had long employed 
 the ingenuity and abilities of some of the most learned men in Europe, 
 imparted new charms and increasing interest, to the contemplation of 
 scenes already made sufficiently engaging by the writings of the poet 
 and historian. To assert that there existed on my part no disposition 
 to credit the veracity of Homer, both as an historian and topographer, 
 would be useless; yet I can say with truth, that prejudice has never 
 induced me to deviate from the strictest regard to fidelity, either in de¬ 
 lineating or describing. I had been accustomed, during a long voyage 
 in the Levant, to sketch every scene, which was remarkable for singu¬ 
 larity of feature, or as the theatre of events recorded in history; and I 
 was prepared with copious notes, from every work antient and modern, 
 which tended to illustrate the history or topography of the country, 
 while I examined every interesting spot, with a delight increasing 
 as the truth and consistency of the Iliad became more and more 
 apparent. 
 
 In approaching theTroad, each bay, mountain, and promontory, pre¬ 
 sented something new to the eye, and excited the most agreeable re¬ 
 flections in the mind—so that in a few days, I found myself in possession 
 of a number of observations and drawings, taken in a part of the world 
 concerning which, although much has been written, there still existed a 
 great deficiency of those materials which might enable the reader to 
 form a satisfactory opinion, without encountering the difficulties of a 
 
 B 
 

 
 tedious voyage. [ thought that such information would gratify men 
 of literature and enquiry.— I was confident, that delineations and de¬ 
 scriptions of a fertile plain, watered by abundant and perennial streams, 
 affording almost impregnable positions, and so situated, as to com¬ 
 mand one of the most important passes in the world, must be interest¬ 
 ing, not to say valuable, to politicians and statesmen. It is perhaps 
 unnecessary to add, that I was not without the hope of convincing 
 others, as I had been myself convinced, that the history, as related by 
 Homer, is confirmed by the fullest testimony, which a perfect corre¬ 
 spondence between the present face of the country and the description 
 of the poet can possibly give to it. 
 
 To attempt elegance of style in a work of mere description, would 
 he so much out of place, that 1 am persuaded an apology will not be 
 required for such imperfections of language as may be found in this 
 \ olume. T am well aware, that my anxiety to give the reader a thorough 
 knowledge of the country, may in some cases have led me into useless 
 repetitions, while, in others, the mention of many particulars may be 
 omitted, which I have falsely imagined were generally known. In 
 regard to the plates, I can truly aver that they are accurate copies of 
 faithful drawings made by myself on the spot, and I think I am justifi¬ 
 ed in observing, that those who are interested in the subject, by a 
 carefid examination of them may acquire as clear a conception of the 
 plain and its environs, as a traveller who is not a draughtsman, could 
 obtain in the country itself. In the description of the plates, I have 
 confined myself forthe most part to the single object of illustrating the 
 topography of the Iliad; yet as the relation of the few occurrences we 
 met with during our short journey, may not be entirely uninteresting 
 to some of my readers, I have not omitted to insert it. 
 
 Alter a residence at Mitylene during the greater part of November, 
 1801, I sailed, in company with another English gentleman, in a small 
 open vessel of the country, intending to touch at the town of Mulliva 
 fora third companion, who, with our dragoman, proceeded by land 
 through the centre of the island to the most northern point. The 
 channel between the island of Lesbos and the main land appears to he 
 nearly twelve miles in breadth. I o the north the prospect is bounded 
 h\ the chain of Ida, below which are seen the little islands anciently 
 
3 
 
 called Hecatonisi, (from their number,) and at present Muskonisi, 
 projecting from the Asiatic coast. The woods of Lesbos on the left, 
 interspersed with villages and scattered habitations, have a pleasing- 
 effect, while on the right the kingdom of Attains and the iEolian 
 coast present an agreeable variety of plains and mountains. 
 
 Our vessel was manned by four or five Turks from the city of Mity- 
 lene, and we found in their order and cleanliness an agreeable contrast 
 to the slovenly conduct and ungovernable clamour of the Greek mari¬ 
 ners. We were compelled to anchor during the night in a little bay, 
 in one of the Muskonisi, where our lurks raised an awning over us 
 upon poles, and left the whole of it to ourselves; the crew retired to a 
 kind of cabin in the how of the vessel, while the master or Carabucero 
 as he is termed, kept watch all night at the helm. When day light 
 returned we again set sail, leaving behind us the gulph of Adramytium, 
 and coasting ihe Phrygian shore in a direction nearly west. As we 
 advanced, the common duties of an English morning toilette attracted 
 the notice of our conductors, who, surprised at seeing us perform our 
 ablutions with a scrupulousness worthy of Mussulmen, expressed the 
 greatest satisfaction, and one of them spread his cloak as a carpet for 
 us to sit upon. The ceremony of the tooth-brush did not excite less 
 astonishment, for they had no idea that there existed Christians of any 
 nation, who thought washing an indispensable duty. The wind becom¬ 
 ing unfair, we had an opportunity of taking the outlines of the coast 
 with some degree of accuracy, while the Turks, who had a taste suffi¬ 
 cient to discover that the shore of Lesbos was far more invitme- asked 
 
 O’ 3 
 
 with surprise, why we did not write about their country as well as the 
 other. We told them that in ancient times the Troad had been the seat 
 of a great kingdom, which made it more interesting to us, though we 
 allowed that Lesbos was infinitely more beautiful. In the evening we 
 arrived at Mulliva, a town of considerable extent, seated on the sides of 
 a steep declivity, and crowned with a large castle. Here we found 
 our dragoman, and our companion, and were detained for a short time 
 by adverse winds, wishing in vain for a passage to the little town on 
 Cape Baba, (the ancient promontory of Lectum,) and only twelve or 
 fourteen miles distant from the northern extremity of Lesbos. 
 Mulliva seems to have been the Poliba of the ancients, for the situation 
 is correspondent, and the name has undergone but little alteration; 
 
the port is very small and much exposed. W e found here an officer 
 of no great dignity, but exceedingly useful: he is termed the Kiaia, 
 and his duty is to procure lodging and accommodations for strangers. 
 The Turks.of this country are so scrupulous in rendering these ser¬ 
 vices, that we found on the terra firina the owner of a house who 
 quitted it entirely that we might he more conveniently lodged, and 
 that for a very inconsiderable remuneration. Near Mulliva is Petra, 
 not far from the port of the same name, w hich is derived from a large 
 rock in the village. The port of Baba being unsafe during the preva¬ 
 lence of a south wind, we were compelled, as soon as we could set 
 sail, to pass close to that town without landing, and make the best of 
 our wav for the harbour of Tenedos. In the course of the voyage, 
 w hich did not exceed the distance of twenty-four miles, we had a good 
 opportunity of observing the coast, which lay not far on our right. 
 The ruins of the baths ol Alexandria Troas are visible on arriving 
 between Tenedos and the Trojan coast, but the entrance of the port 
 being entirely filled with sand, il cannot at present be conveniently 
 approached by sea. Tenedos is a bare rough rock, not more than 
 three miles long, rising toward the north-east into a round hill, under 
 which, upon the canal between the island and the main land, is the 
 little port and the town. Before we entered the harbour, we ob¬ 
 served a small rock on our right, on which was a fragment of w bite 
 marble. Our Turks assured, us that it was a Christian church, and 
 w ondered I hat we did not cross ourselves as the Greeks did. it is 
 probably the tomb of some provincial saint. We found the port 
 defended on the south by a small castle, and on the north by one of 
 superior dimensions, erected b\ the Genoese or Venetians during their 
 wars with the lurks. From the southern castle a long line of wind¬ 
 mills extends to the town, which forms one side of a spacious 
 square, connecting it with the sea. Tenedos is infested by an innu¬ 
 merable race of dogs, ol a light brown colour, who attack strangers 
 immediately on landing, but they are easily driven off by stones. The 
 Russian agent here procured us a bad house, in which we passed the 
 night. In the morning of the second of December we hired a boat of 
 singular construction, being long and narrow, vet high out of the 
 water, and in which either oars or sails were used as circumstances 
 permitted. We left our heavy baggage at Tenedos with our cook, 
 with orders to conduct iL to the Dardenelles: and we set out upon our 
 
5 
 
 expedition with our dragoman, and a single Greek servant, providing 
 ourselves only with linen, and absolute necessaries for a few days. 
 We did not omit to reckon amons: the necessaries, a large bottle of 
 Muscatel white wine from Tenedos; which, as the Turkish peasants 
 do not keep liquor, we found a good precaution, besides which, we 
 had d iscovered that the flavour was delicious. The canal being only 
 five miles in breadth, our boat quickly left us on the sandy shore of 
 the 1 road, a little south of the cape Koum-bournou, where we had 
 not walked many minutes before we discovered a person in the brown 
 habit of the country, driving a couple of oxen in one of those carts to 
 which some English travellers have given the name of Sigaean. He 
 readily enlisted in our service, and carried our bundles to the vil¬ 
 lage of Ghicle or GeikH, where we remained during the night. We 
 passed over a bridge, and entered a country exhibiting to us an en¬ 
 tirely novel appearance, being divided into fields by hedge-rows, and 
 interspersed with trees, as in England. What surprised us more was, 
 that we found the lanes in good order, and bordered with grass, to 
 the sight of which we had been strangers since we left Trieste in 
 the month of March. We passed many wells on the road, a proof 
 that the country was once more populous than at present. When we 
 arrived at Ghicle, our conductor, instead of insisting on a larger sum, 
 as had been always the custom of the Greeks, was contented with 
 less money than the dragoman intended to give him, and set out in 
 search of the Kiaia who was working in the fields. We found the 
 village, consisting of a few houses, not widely scattered, but having a 
 large plat of grass in the centre, a sight so pleasing to us, that we sate 
 down upon it, and dined, congratulating ourselves on being able to 
 repose on the ground, at a season, when our English friends were shi¬ 
 vering with cold. What gratified us still more, was, that the people 
 appeared to have no impertinent curiosity; for though in the centre 
 of the village, not one came to disturb us, but, on application, readily 
 furnished us with what we wanted. In the evening we walked up a 
 lull, and observed the country, catching from its summit the first sight 
 of the tumulus of Udjek, which only served to increase our eagerness 
 for a view of the plain which lay behind it. On descending, we 
 found the Kiaia had given up his house to us, and provided horses for 
 the next day, when we visited the ruins of Alexandrian Troy, distant 
 about five miles toward the south. We rode through a well wooded 
 
 c 
 
6 
 
 country, some of the trees however appeared to have been burned. 
 In our way we met several camels feeding at large. They approach¬ 
 ed us without fear, and stalked after us with great composure for some 
 distance. About a mile north of Alexandria, we found great heaps of 
 granite balls, which had been cut from the fallen columns of the city, 
 and arc stdl used by the 1 urks for those guns of enormous calibre on the 
 Hellespont and the Bosphorus, which could not be supplied with iron, 
 but at an immense expence. Many indeed of a less considerable size 
 are used in the Turkish dominions. A little hamlet, apparently de¬ 
 serted, stands near the sea, not far from the northern wall of Alexan¬ 
 dria ; the name of it is d olian Kevi. d lie approach to the ruins is an¬ 
 nounced by tlie vestiges of shattered temples, which however do not 
 bespeak great magnificence; as the colonnades have never consisted 
 of an) tiling more than ill designed granite pillars, of inconsiderable 
 magnitude, and inferior workmanship, ddie ground, once occupied 
 by the city, is covered by innumerable oaks, so that it would take 
 much time to examine every part of it with minuteness, ddte wall, 
 which is placed on a bank, appears to have been strong, but the si¬ 
 tuation m many parts is not such as to add to its strength, ddie port, 
 winch was without the western walls, and of inconsiderable extent, is 
 now choked up by the accumulation of sand. There are many ruined 
 temples near it, the remains of which consist of small pillars of gra¬ 
 nite; they were evidently erected when the arts had so much declin¬ 
 ed, that 1 am not certain they were ever appropriated to heathen wor¬ 
 ship. 1 saw nothing which could give any hint to a traveller that ibis 
 had been a Greek city, though it is well known that Alexander en¬ 
 larged the town, and, after honouring it with his name, granted many 
 immunities to the inhabitants ; and that the designs of that conqueror 
 were afterwards completed by Lysimachus. The materials are not 
 such as were generally applied by the Greeks to public edifices, noi¬ 
 ls tlie style or workmanship ol any of the ruins at all comparable to 
 the works of the Grecians m other countries. 
 
 Several Roman inscriptions are found among the ruins, and the 
 word divo at the commencement, sufficiently demonstrates that such 
 marbles must have a later origin than the first of the emperors. The 
 most considerable ruin is that called by the vulgar Priam’s palace, by 
 some the Gymnasium, and now found to he the baths of the oily, built 
 
by Herodes Atticus, at a great expellee. The best proof of it is that 
 the stone pipes for the conveyance of the water are scattered about 
 various parts of the edifice. Engravings of it have been published, 
 which are correct. What remains is well built, hut without an at¬ 
 tempt at any thing more than the accommodation of the bathers. To 
 the west, the entrance, consisting of a large arch with one on each side 
 of smaller dimensions, constitutes the most striking feature of the ruin. 
 South of this is the semicircular end of some edifice, with niches for 
 statues. We found a breach in the wall toward the east, through 
 which we went down a steep bank into a thicket, once the burial place 
 of some of the inhabitants. Here we found a sepulchre covered with 
 the opus reticulatum of the Romans, and the remains of two columnar 
 monuments of great size. Near them were the covers of sarcophagi of 
 white marble; and I was informed that a granite column, inferior only 
 to that called Pompey’s pillar, exists among the woods in the neigh¬ 
 bourhood. Not far distant was a tumulus shaded with trees, from 
 whence was a fine view of a plain on the south of Alexandria. We 
 returned to Ghicle to dinner, and in the evening recommenced our 
 journey on horseback toward Bounarbashi, the presumed situation of 
 Homeric Troy. The country was agreeably varied with woods and 
 fields, and we passed near a village, which, we were told, was called 
 Dahri Ivevi, but which I find in many maps styled Bos. The dis¬ 
 tance is about five miles. Near the road is the village of Arabler, 
 after passing which, a defile, between the hills bounding the plain of 
 Troy on the west, conducted us to Bounarbashi. One of the first ob¬ 
 jects which attracted our notice was the hill of Ate he Kevi in front, 
 and we soon discovered a tumulus on the Hills to the right, which I 
 was afterwards induced to believe was that of Paris. In a short time 
 we crossed a narrow valley, and found ourselves on the hill of Bou¬ 
 narbashi, a village consisting of about twenty-five houses, with a neat 
 mosque, and a large house, the residence of the Aga, who is the prin¬ 
 cipal person of the place. On entering we saw two tumuli on the 
 summit of the hill behind the village, beside one which we had seen 
 in our way. Looking toward the plain we saw other tumuli on the 
 shore, beyond which the sea, decorated with the islands of Imbros 
 and Samothrace, terminated the scene. The European coast was vi¬ 
 sible beyond the Hellespont, and the fleet of the Captain Pacha, re¬ 
 turning from the Egyptian expedition, was readily descried between 
 

 8 
 
 Koum Kale and I lie opposite castle. Two rivers were discernible, 
 flowing in circuitous courses along the plain, and toward the sea they 
 appeared to unite. One of them nearly encompassed the hill of Bou- 
 narbashi, while the other arose at the foot of some trees which sur¬ 
 rounded the gardens of the inhabitants. We had no sooner arranged 
 our plans for passing the night at Bounarbashi, than we walked out 
 lo examine the place. The Aga himself was absent on the Egyptian 
 coast; but another Aga, his friend or deputy, was left in the house, 
 and supplied bis place. We were introduced through an open gallery 
 on the first floor, into a good room, well fitted up in the Turkish taste, 
 with handsome divan cushions round three of its sides. AAe walked 
 downwards from the village into the nearest part of the plain, and came 
 to a neat square cistern, surrounded by willows, and formed by seve¬ 
 ral pieces of white marble, and two blocks of granite, within which a 
 copious spring boiled up with considerable force. 1 was warm with 
 riding, and naturally took some of the water in my hand to drink; not 
 having at that moment a thought of Homer in my mind. I was sur¬ 
 prised to find that the water was too warm to relieve thirst. My sur¬ 
 prise however was quickly dissipated, as I concluded that this must be 
 the warm source of the Scamander, and having found that, I knew from 
 the accounts of other travellers, in what direction to look for the cooler 
 sources. We accordingly proceeded to the west, in our way meeting 
 with a second cistern very near the other, and of modern workman¬ 
 ship, scarcely to be called a separate source. The water was equally 
 w arm, or even more so. At the distance of one hundred and seventy 
 yards we came lo a splash of water, from which a rapid brook look its 
 rise, and on the opposite side of it saw the water rising in large quan¬ 
 tities from a perforated rock. I perceived a very considerable differ¬ 
 ence in the nature of the two springs, for this was cold and refreshing. 
 One of my companions, however, was not affected by the same sensa¬ 
 tions, as he thought both of an equal temperature. This I attributed at 
 the time to a difference only in the habit of body; if both the springs 
 gave the sensation of cold to the hand, a slight degree of difference 
 would not be distinctly felt, and the same might be said if the hand 
 found warmth in both. I was certainly warm when I tasted of the 
 first spring, yet I found the water also warm; and though I was become 
 much cooler before I went to the second source, I found that so cold 
 as to leave no doubt in my mind. Unfortunately we had no instrument, 
 
9 
 
 by which we could determine the point with precision, ahorse having 
 fallen with part of our baggage, and broken it, some time before. I am 
 now, however, able to account for the difference in our sensations; for 
 it has been ascertained by the thermometer that both are warm, yet, as 
 the receptacle of the second is large, while that of the former is con- 
 lined, the evaporation from the surface alone would be sufficient to 
 lower the temperature very considerably. In fact, it is probable 
 that my friend made trial of the water of the second spring, much 
 nearer to the place where it first issues from the rock, than myself. 
 At all events, the spring passes, among the inhabitants of Bounarbashi, 
 for a cold one, while the other is regarded as warm, and that alone is 
 sufficient to determine the point. The water abounds with little fish, 
 and is exceedingly clear. The springs being at the distance of one 
 hundred and seventy yards from each other, run in separate channels 
 for three or four hundred yards, and serve to water some pretty gar¬ 
 dens which occupy the ground between them. In one of these is a 
 cottage, inhabited by a gardener and his family, who shewed me a 
 large fragment of white marble, decorated with antique sculpture. 
 It appeared like the metope of Doric structure. At the further ex¬ 
 tremity of the gardens the rivulets unite, and form a copious stream. 
 Having examined the springs, which are yet used for washing, as they 
 were by the maidens ofTroy in the early ages of antiquity, we returned 
 to the house of the Aga to supper. While the preparations were going 
 on, we observed that the room was scarcely of a size sufficient to allow 
 of our sleeping comfortably, and seeing a door fastened only by a 
 leathern thong wound round a nail, we entered with our interpreter 
 the room into which it opened, with an intention of discovering 
 another apartment, in w hich we might pass the night. The house being 
 very large, we found several good rooms, painted in lively colours, and 
 at last fixed upon one which we thought more comfortable than the 
 rest; but as the whole were fitted up in a style we had not before seen, 
 we proceeded, on our return, into a kind of hall near the centre, to 
 examine the other wing, beginning by opening a door with a key we 
 found in the lock. As we advanced with only a single lamp, we heard 
 the sound of laughter, and the footsteps of persons retreating from us. 
 
 1 do not know how it happened that we did not recollect that we were 
 in the apartments of the women, for had we done so, regard both Im¬ 
 propriety and personal safety would have suggested the necessity of 
 
 D 
 
; but wo examined the place with some composure, and wc. 
 ted even into a chamber which the females had that moment 
 ed on our approach. The room was surrounded with a handsome. 
 1 sofa, and on the floor were many cushions, on which the ladies 
 been sitting before a good fire. From the four corners of the 
 1 , as many ropes covered with red cloth served to suspend in the 
 •c a small cradle, much like those used in England; but there was 
 hild m it when we entered. We began, however, at length, to 
 ect that we were not in our proper situation, and returned to our 
 1 , when we found the Aga himself advancing to meet us, pale with 
 , and his bps quivering with such violence that he could scarcely 
 J told the Greek servant, who spoke Turkish, to ask him, 
 her we could not have another room, on which he turned away 
 out speaking. The dragoman began to commiserate Ins situation, 
 
 ■ would become the scorn of every body for suffering the intrusion 
 into his haram. In the course of the evening we sent to 
 m him what was the truth, that we had only been in search of 
 her chamber, being totally ignorant of the use of those apartments, 
 vas so well satisfied with our message, that he shortly after made 
 ippearance with a large water melon, which he begged us to ac- 
 , and thus terminated an affair which might have been productive of 
 s consequences to our party, if the Aga had not been a rational 
 [ got up at an early hour in the morning, and walked to the top of 
 11 of Bounarbashi, not a little delighted to imagine myself in the 
 ma of Priam. I found my expectations and wishes most amply 
 fled. Foundations of walls, and perhaps temples, were visible, 
 three tumuli, of the species which Homer describes, bore testi¬ 
 fy to the former existence of inhabitants on this spot, very different 
 the Turks of Bounarbashi. Nearer the summit, the foundation 
 thick wall is visible, extending across a narrow part of the hill, 
 ed on each side by a steep precipice. Beyond the wall the 
 d rises still higher, and swells out into an oval shape, while one 
 rivers, which flow through the plain, almost encircles I he foot of 
 cks at its base. On the top of this lull, which seems to have been 
 i tad el or Pergama of 'Troy, more foundations are discoverable, 
 a surrounding wall may be traced in almost every part. On the 
 esl point is a little mount hollowed out in the centre, round it is a 
 dar foundation, on the north side of which is a block of squared 
 
11 
 
 stone. Near this a steep precipice falls almost perpendicularly toward 
 the river below, and the recollection of that rock, from which the 
 Trojans once thought of precipitating the horse, presented to them by 
 the Greeks, immediately suggested itself to my mind. From this sum¬ 
 mit of the rock is a beautiful prospect of a vale, watered by the Si- 
 moeis, which runs through the deep glen almost surrounding the Per- 
 gama. To the west the isle of Tenedos is visible in its whole extent, 
 while the plain, with its two rivers, and its numerous tumuli, is ter¬ 
 minated to the north by the Archipelago and the Hellespont. The 
 view being so extensive from this spot, I took the opportunity of ob¬ 
 serving such points as might most effectually conduce to a thorough 
 knowledge of the plain; and these I visited after breakfast in a res-ular 
 
 O 
 
 manner, taking, in my way, drawings of every thing, which I thought 
 capable of throwing any light on the subject of the situation of Troy. 
 In my way to Bounarhashi, I measured, with a pedometer, the dis¬ 
 tances between the most remarkable points of the hill. I found my 
 Companions at breakfast, and observed with pleasure that we were 
 arrived in a climate which produced not only grass in December, but 
 even milk, to which we had been strangers in our journey through 
 Gieece. After breakfast T again visited the springs of Scamander with 
 my friend, and after drawing them, recommenced an examination of 
 the environs of Bounarhashi. The first objects which caught my 
 attention were the marble capitals of columns of no great size, but of 
 workmanship like that in many of the English churches. In the whole 
 course of our tour we had never seen any fragments which did not 
 seem to be the production of an artist of the most refined taste, a 
 circumstance which made these the more singular, and almost per¬ 
 suaded us, that we had found some of the original marbles of Troy, 
 for certainly the arts had not arrived at perfection when these capitals 
 were formed. They were not all alike; but that they were not of 
 I urkish sculpture appears from the ignorance of that nation in regard 
 to such ornaments; for some handsome capitals of the Ionic order, and 
 about the same dimensions, are turned upside down in the walls of the 
 buildings which surround the Aga’s house; a proof that the Turks of 
 this country would never have thought of carving capitals, when they 
 could find them ready near the spot. We proceeded to the summit 
 of a lull, which lies between Bounarhashi and the-Simoeis on the east; 
 after which we descended into a narrow glen between the hill of 
 
12 
 
 Bounarbashiand the chain of Ida. This glen is watered by the broad 
 and rapid Snnoeis, I lie hanks of which are shaded with willows and 
 tamarisks, while the stream is here and there decorated with little 
 islands full of hushes. The lower part of the hill is laid out in small 
 inclosures, while the sides are clothed with rough wood, climbing to 
 the rocky summit. 
 
 The precipices of the hill of Bounarbashi are covered with an infi¬ 
 nite number of loose stones, which may have been used for the build¬ 
 ing of ordinary houses, and such as we had before seen used lor that 
 purpose in the ruins of the city in Delos. In a short time we turned 
 toward the west, still continuing w ith the river on our left, and the 
 rocks of the citadel on the right, which here arose to llie height of 
 about four hundred feet. The dell soon after assumed the form of a 
 fertile vale, interspersed with corn fields and meadows, and wanting 
 nothing but a clearer stream than the Snnoeis to render it perfectly 
 beautiful. We had heard so much in England of the insignificance of 
 the Simoeis and the Xanthus, that we were amazed to find the former 
 running with a stream that would have been called considerable, even 
 in our own country, while we had seen the latter a violent torrent al¬ 
 most at its source. If Homer had been accustomed, as we had, to 
 l He sight of such rivers as the Ilissus, Cephisus, Asopus, Ismenus, or 
 Inopus, or of such fountains as those of Dirce, Enneacrunus, Aretlmsa, 
 or even Castalia itself, the sources of Scamander and the floods of Si- 
 moeis must have appeared miraculous indeed ; so I Hat there would 
 have been nothing wonderful if his description had appeared somewhat 
 exaggerated, in the estimation of an English reader. It is but fair, 
 how ever, to observe, that Homer describes even the eddying Scaman¬ 
 der, as of such inconsiderable dimensions, that a fallen tree extended 
 as a bridge across the stream. The ancients also have described the 
 Xanthus as yellow , a circumstance which has persuaded some of the 
 moderns, that the Xanthus was on I he east, and the Simoeis on l he 
 west of the plain; but it is evident that they only speak of the mouth 
 of the river, w here the sand of Simoeis had as much corrupted the 
 waters of the Scamander, as the clearness of the Rhine is destroyed 
 by its junction with the Aar. After remaining some time in the vale, 
 we determined to ascend to the summit of the Acropolis, in spite of a 
 hot sun and a very steep precipice, which opposed itself; for we had 
 
13 
 
 discovered a cave in the solid rock at a great height. After climbing 
 to it, we found that it appeared perfectly natural, and only penetrated 
 to the depth of a few feet. Arriving near the summit, we discovered 
 the foundations of walls in the most defensible part of the rock, and 
 soon after gained the highest point ol the Pergama, where we remained 
 some time for the purpose of taking sketches, and resting after our 
 fatigue. We returned to Bounarbashi, only distant about one mile, 
 to dinner. 1 be evening was spent in examining and delineating the 
 lull, as was the greater part of the following day, in the course of 
 which, though it rained, I visited the citadel again, in order to complete 
 my designs. After dinner we took leave of the resident Aga, having, 
 by his interest, supplied ourselves at a very moderate price with two 
 carts, each drawn by a pair of oxen. It is but justice to the people 
 of the country, to say that a more quiet and obliging race never existed, 
 and that we found in every transaction with them an honesty and 
 fair dealing, very agreeable after our experience of the hard bargains 
 and knavery of the Greeks. The Aga seemed much pleased with the 
 present of a sequin of the value often shillings, at our departure; but 
 had the real Aga ol Bounarbashi been at home, we should probably 
 have been lodged and accommodated without reward, as he is a rich 
 man, and a Hadjee of a very hospitable disposition. I observed one 
 ol Ins greyhounds covered up with a fine Turkey carpet, which was 
 kept on by a strap; and on enquiring the reason, was informed that 
 they imagined such additional clothing was of great advantage to the 
 training of those animals in winter. We walked by the side of our 
 carts till we came to the ford of Simoeis, in the way to Koum Kale on 
 the Hellespont. Here we mounted those vehicles, and with much diffi¬ 
 culty passed over, the river being very rapid, and more than one 
 hundred yards in breadth. I was, during the passage, in danger of 
 losing the fruits of my journey; for the water rising above the wheels 
 of the cart, I was compelled to stand up with my papers to secure 
 them from injury. Unfortunately the oxen became unruly, and in my 
 endeavours to assist the driver, all my treasures fell into the stream. 
 
 T had, however, the good fortune to recover them before they received 
 any material damage, but they yet retain many marks of the sandy 
 hue of the flood. We proceeded along the Simoeisian plain to 
 Kallifatli, a large populous village; after passing which, the people 
 ran out after us, bringing ancient medals of the country, which we 
 
 p. 
 
14 
 
 had asked for in our way. We found them t o he those of Alexandria, 
 stamped with the figure of a horse feeding, the usual symbol of that 
 city. In a short time we found ourselves again on the banks of the 
 Simoeis, after which the vale ol I hymbrae, anciently decorated with 
 the temple of the Thymbraean Apollo, began lo appear. On the hill 
 which bounds that vale on the south, once stood the city of New 
 Ilium. 
 
 As the day began to close, we found ourselves at the little villao-e 
 of Koum Kevi; at one extremity of which, after crossing a channel, 
 perhaps that of the brook Thyinbrius, we observed a large but not lofty 
 mound, on which were the remains of columns similar to those at 
 Alexandria Troas. We found nothing remarkable between this village 
 and Koum Kale, except that our road frequently passed through cer¬ 
 tain splashes of water, which we should have taken for rivers, but that 
 we observed they did not extend far, and had no communication with 
 each other. I found reason afterwards to suspect that these pits 
 indicated the ancient course of the Scamander. The road to Koum 
 Kale conducted us once more to the banks of the united Simoeis and 
 Xanthus, which we crossed by means of a wooden bridge of uncom¬ 
 mon length. We found a tumulus, used as a Turkish burial ground 
 on the further side, ornamented with cypresses, but as the night was 
 coming on we proceeded to the village, where, having discovered a 
 coffee-house under the walls of the castle, we passed the night. We 
 found the house filled with Turkish officers, couriers, and sailors 
 returning from Egypt to Constantinople; and a party who were just 
 going to sit down, asked us to sup with them, which, however, we 
 declined, as we were somewhat fatigued, though we had only performed 
 a journey of nine miles on that day. In the morning we were enter¬ 
 tained by the sight ol the I urkish method of paying compliments; for 
 the forts of the European and Asiatic sides saluted the Captain Pacha, 
 and his fleet, each vying with the other in the art of directing the 
 ordnance, so that the balls just passed without touching the bowsprit 
 of the flag ship, the Sultan Selim. The salute was returned with equal 
 vivacity, and 1 had frequent opportunities of seeing the balls from the 
 opposite shores cross each other in the water. When this ceremony 
 was finished, the fleet sailed for Constantinople, and we set out on fool 
 to explore the lower part of the plain. We visited the tumulus, near 
 
15 
 
 the bridge, and proceeded along fields, which occupied the left bank 
 of the rivers, till the enclosures ceased. In a short time we arrived at 
 a little garden, where we found the stream again, and advancing, found 
 a channel, which we passed with some difficulty. This cut formed a 
 communication between the river and a marsh which lay on our right, 
 and on its banks were the marble capitals of Corinthian columns, of 
 considerable size and elegant design. Soon after we saw more capitals 
 and a mount, which appeared artificial, and on which were scattered 
 large blocks of stone. In the river we observed the piers of an antique 
 bridge, which was in the road between New Ilium and Alexandria 
 Troas. On the south side of the mount, a little rivulet running in a 
 channel of some breadth, joined the Simoeis, and this we found to be 
 the remains of the Scamander, the waters of which are now turned into 
 the sea by a canal. We traversed the brook on foot, and walked on 
 the plain between the two rivers. I got wet in so doing, and was 
 looking for some better point at which I might repass, when one of my 
 companions discovered, at a short distance, a man riding on horseback 
 over a bridge, to which we immediately directed our steps. On the 
 other side we walked up a circular knowl, whence we had a good view 
 of the plain. On the side next the sea, a large tumulus, which 
 we visited, attracted our attention. From its summit we enjoyed a 
 most extensive prospect over the whole country, as far as Bounarbashi 
 and the summit of Ida on one side, while the white top of'Athos might 
 be clearly distinguished on the other. We had also the advantage of 
 observing the canal which carried oil' the waters of Scamander, and of 
 tracing with the eye the scanty brook which remains in the ancient 
 bed, down to its junction with the Simoeis. After remaining on this 
 tumulus for some time, we returned by the village of Jeni Clielir to 
 Koum Kevi, in our way passing two other tumuli, one of which is of 
 considerable magnitude. We slept at the coffee-house, and in the 
 morning of the following day, hired one of the little boats, called piedi, 
 and which abound in the Hellespont. As the day was rough and 
 stormy, we had not much opportunity of observing the shore; however, 
 
 I saw on the east of the plain, another tumulus near the sea, after 
 passing which, the coast became rugged and mountainous, till we 
 arrived within a mile of the Asiatic castle of the Dardanelles. 
 
 Here the shores of the Hellespont begin to assume a verv ene-aeino- 
 aspect, on the Thracian side presenting a castle overlooked by a pretty 
 
1G 
 
 town, ornamented with cypresses, and backed by beautiful lulls; 
 while the Asiatic coast, which is in this part a delightful and fertile 
 plain, is decorated by the town and fortress which guard the straight, 
 above which the promontory of Abydos appears to close the passage. 
 On landing at the Asiatic town, we found it in the utmost confusion; 
 for the governor was at that time giving a superb fete, to celebrate 
 the marriage of his daughter with the Aga of Lampsaeus. We found 
 out the English Consul with some difficulty, for the town is large. 
 He was a Jew; as his own house had been lately burned down, he 
 provided us with a lodging. i he festival commenced in the evening 
 with fire-works; during the exhibition of which the Turks formed a 
 very extensive ring, and the Aga and his friends sale on one side of it 
 on carpets and cushions. The exhibition was similar to those of our 
 country; and we began to be heartily tired, when a curious scene was 
 presented. Two men appeared, dressed like devils, with torches in 
 their hands; each fixed himself in a frame of wood, not very much 
 resembling, but intending to represent, the body of a horse. lo the 
 front of this frame was fixed a long moveable neck with a head, which 
 w as elevated or depressed by means of a bridle, at the pleasure of I he 
 supposed rider, on whose legs only the figure was supported. I bus 
 equipped, the\ rushed into the centre of the circle with a loud noise 
 and brandishing of torches; till coming before the seat of the Aga, 
 they commenced a most furious battle, carried on by means of a 
 tripple row of fire-works, representing cannon, and disposed on their 
 sides; while at proper intervals a ball of lire, of more than ordinary 
 magnitude, was discharged at the enemy, by means of that which 
 served for the representation of the tail, to the great delight of the 
 spectators, who on this occasion allowed themselves some relaxation 
 from their accustomed gravity. \\ hen the combat was over, a species 
 of opera, consisting of music, singing, and dancing, w as exhibited by 
 the first performers of the Sultan, who came from Constantinople for 
 the purpose, at an enormous expence. The music was dull and 
 monotonous, and the dance consisted in aukward squaring of the 
 elbows, accompanied by still more disagreeable motions of the body, 
 while the performer turned slow ly round, singing at intervals. The 
 evening concluded with this representation, and the following morning 
 w as appointed for wrestling. Such inhabitants of the town as were 
 disposed to shew either strength or activity were the competitors for 
 the prize; and many of them stepped forth in white drawers, and 
 
’V 
 
 17 
 
 oiled like the champions of Greece. 1 he reward of prowess was a 
 very long piece of coloured silk, given by order of the Aga, and pre¬ 
 sented to the conqueror, who came with the gift hanging over his 
 shoulder to thank the donor. A hideous African black carried oil 
 many trophies and great applause. The next day was appointed foi 
 a boat race on the Hellespont; but the wind being fair we set sail for 
 Gallipoli and Constantinople, leaving the Troad, till our return from 
 the capital enabled me to make sketches of the coast from Rhaeteum 
 to Alexandria Troas. 1 then found myself in possession of materials 
 for the following pages, in which, all the merit I can claim to myself 
 is that of having exhibited with fidelity the details of an interesting 
 country, the grand outlines of which had been already made known 
 to the public by the learning and abilities of Le Chevalier Dalziel 
 and Morrit. 
 
' 
 
 
 
Vi 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 m 
 
 THE 
 
 TOPOGRAPHY OF TROY 
 
 PLATE I. 
 
 T H E southern coast of Phrygia, bordering on ihe gulph of 
 Adramyttium, presents a continued chain of elevated mountains, 
 gradually increasing in magnitude, as they recede from Cape Baba, 
 and approach the summit of Mount Ida. The most lofty point of this 
 celebrated mountain is distinguished in the Iliad, by the name of 
 Gargarus, and according to the best observations, has four thousand 
 six hundred and fifty feet of perpendicular elevation' above the level 
 of the sea". 
 
 A spacious vale succeeds Gargarus toward the east, once the Thebe 
 Hypoplacia of Homer, and by him recorded as the territory of jEtion 3 
 and the birth place of Andromache. 
 
 During a residence of an entire month at Mytilene, I observed that 
 the whole country of Cilicia, from Gargarus to Adramyttium, was 
 continually obscured by a dense and gloomy atmosphere, and even 
 when at a short distance from the coast, I never was enabled to com¬ 
 plete any design, from which an accurate idea of its outlines might be 
 obtained. 
 
 1 Choiseul Gouffier. 
 
 2 Ben Nevis, the highest mountain of Great Britain, is about 4370 feet above the western ocean. 
 
 3 End of the sixth book. 
 
 i 
 
 /j 
 
 I 
 
 A 
 
 )J 
 
 fl 
 

 20 
 
 file first ski ll'll llierefore, lias Ida Gargarus, (Vid. PI. 1. A.) on 
 llie right or eastern extremity, and may be useful in demonstrating 
 tbe real position of a mountain, llie situation of which has not hitherto 
 been generally known 1 . On the sea shore, near the foot of this 
 mountain, lies the small village of Antandros. The distant summits 
 li. are those In the east of Alexandria Troas. llie opposite side of 
 them will be shewn in a succeeding" view. 
 
 I lie second is a continuation ot llie former, and some judgment may 
 be formed from it, ot llie elevation ol the coast, as far as Cape Baba, 
 (V III. PI ( .) or Lectum. On an eminence about twelve miles eastward 
 from Baba, lies Bairam Kcvi, where are many ruins. 1 1 is universally 
 supposed In be llie Assos ol Strabo. That geographer mentions it as 
 a city fortified by nature and art 5 , having a long and difficult ascent 
 Iroin llie sea and port. The point of Lesbos or Mytilene appears in 
 llie west. (Vid. D.) 
 
 I lie third sketch (PI. 2.) is a nearer view of the rugged promontory 
 ot Lectum, and has the same character as all this portion of the coast 
 ol I hrygia. ll must occur to every one, that in a country of defiles 
 and precipices like this, the search for llie plain of Troy, as described 
 by Ilomer, L unnecessary, yet as it lias been surmised that Troy 
 stood 111 I he country” near Lectum, these outlines may suffice to 
 convince us that a plain, capable of containing 150,000 men in battle 
 array, cannot exisl between the promontory of Lectum and the village 
 of Antandros, 
 
 • It was not ascertained, till tin- voyage ol' Kaufl'er the engineer, with the learned Count Lutlolf 
 ar IS evident front the maps of D’Anville, and others. Dr. Chandler places the sources of his 
 Xanthns, winch is the river generally known as the Simois, more than twenty-five miles distant 
 from the town Antandros, whereas the true distance does not exceed twelve. A difference of great 
 importance in the survey of so confined a territory. The map was published in May, 1802. 
 
 5 Strabo, book 13. 
 
 * Tlle dissertations of the learned Bryant, accompanied by a map. 
 
 1 /" V < X X" v >> \ /\ / \ , 
 
v m v/v/ v s x v^v^y.x'v 
 
The vignette (PI. 3.) represents the modern village of Baba, or 
 St. Mary, situated on the extremity of Lectum, and is seen in this view 
 from the west. The principal buildings are the mosques and castle. 
 The houses being built of unbaked brick, have a mean appearance. 
 The little port formed of massive fragments of rock, is only capable 
 of receiving the small fishing boats of the country, and is untenable 
 even by these during a storm from the west or south. The inhabitants 
 are celebrated in the Levant for their skill in the manufacture of 
 knives. 
 
 Having now doubled the Cape, the western coast though rude and 
 uncultivated, nevertheless assumes a more smiling aspect than the 
 southern, and is totally different from it in character and formation, 
 d he little isle of Tenedos is seen from Baba, while Lemnos, which is 
 not more distant, is not sufficiently elevated to be visible, unless while 
 the atmosphere is clear. 
 
 The first outline therefore on the western coast (PI. 4.) represents 
 the village o( Baba in profile toward the south, having the mountains 
 of Mitylene, at the distance of fourteen or fifteen miles, in the back 
 
 ground. 
 
 Proceeding northward from Lectum, I have been particularly 
 cautious in representing with fidelity every inequality of the soil, and 
 have not even omitted a tree, where such an object could be discerned. 
 In the first view of the western coast nothing occurs worthy of 
 remark, but in the second (PI. 5.) we find the hills begin to lose their 
 
abruptness, and that they are here and there separated by narrow 
 vallies. 
 
 Near the centre of the second view, a village is perceived situated on 
 a rising’ ground A. This I take to be Kourali Ivevi, or Kura Ivevi, a 
 neighbouring hamlet. 
 
 The next cape to the left is Jughlan Bouroun, B, beyond it is an 
 extensive bay, and behind is seen the pointed summit of the mountain 
 to the east of Alexandria Troas, C. The view of the continent is 
 terminated on I lie north, by a point l), under the ruins of that city, 
 and Tenedos, E, is seen on the west, in the lower portion of the 
 plate. 
 
 On passing Jughlan Bouroun 1 the shores recede, and a vale of some 
 extent is perceived (PI. 6.) bounded on the north by a lofty range of 
 lulls, A, and on llie coast by a line of inconsiderable eminences, which 
 prevent the view of the interior. 
 
 Near llie base of the conical lull on the north, A, is a little village, 
 bearing the name of Nesrach Kevi, and at a short distance from it a 
 river discharges itself into the sea. 
 
 Here then we arrive at the first plain in theTroad where the traveller 
 could, with any prospect of success, commence his researches for the 
 Troy of Homer. A river falls into tin* sea after uniting with a second 
 stream about two miles above its mouth; they flow conjointly through 
 a plain, and the larger torrent, which runs near Bairam Kevi, has its 
 source on the summit of Ida Gargarus. 
 
 The Hellespont, however, is far distant, and the tombs are wanting, 
 which by their testimony were to have marked for ever the scene of 
 the encampment of the Greeks, and the vicinity of Troy. The learned 
 Mr. Bryant, in his observations on the work of Le Chevalier, has 
 represented the city of Troy in tin* centre of this plain, and has accom¬ 
 modated, with great ingenuity, the situation of Tenedos to such a 
 
 1 Bouroun is a name commonly applied to all promontories by the Turks. 
 
23 
 
 disposition of the continent; hot as the junction of two streams in this 
 plain is the only point in which it corresponds with the plain of the 
 Iliad, such a coincidence is insufficient to support the idea 2 . 
 
 The mountain, C, (in the second view of PI. 6.) represents the same 
 object as that on the left side of the preceding sketch (A) but it is 
 seen at a more considerable distance, and the low hills, D, intervening 
 at its base, are the same as those marked D in that outline. The great 
 plain in the centre is covered with a thick forest of oaks, of the species 
 called Ilex, which is common in the country. The pyramidal hill E 
 produces a singular effect, from its form and insulated situation. The 
 mountain F, is that seen in PI. 5. B, the summits of which are 
 perceived in the gulph of Adramyttium. 
 
 The lowest of the outlines in PI. 6, presents the mountain F in 
 full view. In the midst of an extensive grove are the ruins of the 
 baths of Alexandria, G. The trees mark, with tolerable accuracy, the 
 site of that ancient city. From this point the summit of Ida, H, is 
 visible in the distance. 
 
 2 In the map alluded to, the island of Tenedos is placed near the promontory of Lectum or 
 Baba; and the isle of Mytilene, together with the whole group of the Muskonisi or Hecatonisi have 
 been displaced for the purpose of introducing a southern coast of the gulph of Adramyttium, which 
 projects nearly as far to the westward as Cape Lectum itself. 
 

 PLATE VII. 
 
 In order lo give a more complete idea of this region. 1 have added 
 to the coast-views a representation of a plain, situated to the south of 
 the ruins of Alexandria Troas, which from its little elevation could 
 not he well delineated from the level of the water. It was necessary, 
 on this account, to take the drawing from a station more distant from 
 the sea, than the ruins of the city, where a considerable elevation 
 afforded a more ample prospect, not wanting even in picturesque 
 effect. Plate 7, therefore, exhibits a plain, in which the greater 
 number of the early travellers to the Levant imagined they had dis¬ 
 covered the real plain of Troy, acknowledging at the same time, that 
 the channel of a brook which might he perceived in it, was insufficient 
 for the support of a loach or minnow, though Homer had described 
 the Scamander and Simois as copious, and even overflowing rivers. 
 The plain lias not an extent capable of containing the armies, nor can 
 a city within one hundred yards of the sea ever have been the 1 ro\ 
 of the Iliad, where mention is so often made of the intervening space. 
 The soil is prettily divided by trees and hedges, much in the English 
 method. The mount near the shore is called Liman 1 epe, a name 
 which signifies the lull of the port. I lie size of this mount is so 
 enormous, that if it be the work of art, which is highly improbable, 
 it may have served the Turkish army for the erection of the conse¬ 
 crated banner, as was tlieir custom on various occasions, and particu¬ 
 larly during the residence of Solnnan, who was detained for a time in 
 the Troad. previous to Ins attack on the castles of the r l hracian 
 Chersonesus 1 . The tumulus in the foreground, now shaded by trees, 
 appears lo be of ancient date, and has on its summit the fragments 
 of sepulchral marbles. The two ruins on the right seem lo have 
 been intended as memorials of the dead, and to have been erected 
 after the restoration of the city of Alexandria by the Roman pm- 
 
 ' It seems that the village of Colons? was anciently situated in the vicinity of t 
 not impossible that the village derived its name from its situation on the mount. 
 
 

 perors. A sepulchre of a different form, distant only a few paces 
 from these, but concealed by trees from the observer, is evidently of 
 Roman workmanship, as may be proved by the opus reticulatum 
 with which it is encrusted. A marble sarcophagus, with its cover, 
 lies on the ground between these remains and the walls of the city, 
 which occupied the high bank on the right, now overgrown with 
 trees of considerable magnitude. 
 
PLATE VIII. 
 
 The coast extending northward, from the ruins of Alexandria, is low 
 and sandy, in a degree that would render a view of it from the sea 
 a mere line, backed by a. distant range of mountains. I have therefore 
 chosen an elevation near the little village ot Ghicli, as a station, whence 
 the whole of the coast between Alexandria Troas and the hill Udjek 
 Tepe, or the tumulus of AEsyetes, may be easily surveyed. In the Plate 
 numbered VIII. may be seen the hill Stamboul Douk 1 , situated on the 
 shore. Il is of a magnitude so superior to the tumuli of the heroes of 
 Homer, that if it be not natural, it may have been another of the 
 situations where the banner of Mahomet was displayed, preparatory 
 to the conquest of the Greek empire. The isle of Tenedos is seen in 
 l he distance, and the modern castle, w ith the little port, is discernible. 
 Still following the coast, a small rivulet , destitute of fresh water in 
 the month of December, is perceived; but a bridge is rendered 
 necessary by the salt marshes which abound at its entrance into the 
 sea. 
 
 Farther on, toward the north, is the low cape Koum Bouroun, 
 beyond which, PI. IX. exhibits the appearance of the rugged moun¬ 
 tains of Samotbrace and Imbros, and a long line of elevated ground 
 forms the southern boundary of the plain, which modern, as well as 
 ancient travellers, have judged to have been the theatre of the Trojan 
 battles. The tumulus visible on this eminence, is not far from the 
 small village of Udjek, from which place it takes the name of Udjek 
 Tepe. From the summit is a fine prospect of the plain, as well as of 
 the adjacent country in every direction. 
 
 1 Stamboul, is a name applied by the Turks both to Constantinople and Alexandria Troas. 
 the latter has the addition of Eski, which signifies ancient. 
 
 • Called Sudluson by Le Chevalier. 
 
27 
 
 PLATE X. 
 
 Having now shown from ihe land every portion of the shore which 
 could not be represented from ihe sea, we have at length reached a 
 point where the coast becomes more conspicuous, ami every step 
 more interesting from the vicinity of the Hellespont and the plain of 
 Troy. In Plate X the lowest sketch has Mount Ida at a distance on 
 the right or southern extremity. Proceeding northward, the tumulus 
 of TEsyetes is a conspicuous object in the centre, and though con¬ 
 siderably remote from the shore, some idea may be formed of the 
 commanding prospect which its summit must afford. The country 
 below it is laid out in small patches of corn and fallow land. 
 
 The eye is next arrested by the village of Erkissi Kevi, under 
 which the waters of a canal unite with the sea. This canal runs 
 between the hill of Erkissi Kevi and an eminence on the left, where 
 a few poplars are distinguishable, and is not unworthy of remark, as 
 it now takes off nearly all the water of the Scamander, and reduces 
 the lower part of that river to a mere brook, previous to its junction 
 with the Simois. The distant mountains are beyond the plain of Troy. 
 
 The last object is a tumulus bearing the name of Beliik Tepe, 
 standing at an inconsiderable distance from the shore, which here 
 runs out into a cape terminated by a rock, which is foreshortened in 
 this view. This tumulus has been termed that of Protesilaus, a name 
 evidently misapplied, as the situation of the tomb of that hero was 
 well known by the ancients, on the Thracian Chersonesus. It has 
 with better reason been called the Tomb of Peneleus, and is situated 
 on a point called by Kauffer, in his map of the Troad, the promontory 
 of Troy. 
 
 The sketch occupying the centre of Plate X, has the rock of Cape 
 Troy on the right, and near it the tumulus of Peneleus, or BehikTepe, 
 is again represented. 
 
28 
 
 The mountain near Alexandria Troas is seen in the distance, after 
 which the coast rises with such abruptness, that the range of hills 
 extending from Gargarus to Lectum is excluded. At the extremity 
 of this view on the left, the summit of Ida' again becomes a distin¬ 
 guishing feature, and the village of Jeni Kevi introduces itself between 
 that mountain and the observer. 
 
 I he upper line of coast in Plate X. contains the remaining part of 
 Jeni Kevi, with the little thickets on the slope beneath. Far to the 
 left ot this village, a small summer-house, or wind-mill without sails, 
 overlooking the plain as well as the sea, is just discernible on a rising 
 ground behind the rocks of the shore. Again proceeding in the same 
 direction, a small chasm is found, which some have imagined to have 
 been anciently formed by art, for the purpose of draining the plain, 
 which was frequently inundated by the waters of the Scamander. 
 
 The view is terminated by the second tumulus in the vicinity of the 
 plain, which is more known by the name of the Tomb of Antilochus, 
 than by any other appellation. The application, however, of this name 
 is unsupported by any authority, and is in ;ome measure contradictory 
 to the evidence of Homer. 
 
 1 It must occur to any person, that in representing a coast, the objects in the back ground must 
 continually change their positions, in regard to such as are near the draughtsman. Ida therefore 
 is seen over different parts of the coast, as the ship whence these sketches were taken proceeded 
 on its voyage. 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
29 
 
 PLATE XI. 
 
 The lower division of the Eleventh Plate contains a delineation of 
 the coast from the promontory of Troy, (A) nearly as far as the 
 village ot Jem Chehr. The tumulus of Peneleus is also visible, (B) 
 and the eminence on which Jeni Kevi is situated lies to the left of 
 that monument. The tumulus of Antilochus occupies the centre of 
 the view, seated on a lofty bank, presenting a surface, partly composed 
 of soft sandy rock, and partly of verdure. To the left of it is seen 
 the summer-house or kiosk mentioned in the preceding description. 
 The distant mountains form part of the chain which extends from 
 Gargarus to Cape Lectum. 
 
 The upper portion exhibits the rocks of Cape Janissary, above which 
 is placed the village ol Jeni Chehr, now inhabited by Greeks and occu¬ 
 pying the site of the ancient Sigaeum. The wind-mills on the summit of 
 the hill, are used as a sea mark by the pilots ol the Archipelago, who 
 steer directly for the entrance of the Hellespont, when the nearest of 
 those objects is in a line witli the most remote. It is somewhat 
 remarkable that the town of Sigaeum, with its promontory, and that of 
 Rhaeteum have been so much insisted upon by writers on the subject 
 of the Troad, although Homer mentions neither by name; signifying 
 only, that two prominences existed, between which the army of the 
 Greeks was encamped 1 2 * . 
 
 In this village the famous Sigasan inscription was discovered 5 
 Proceeding northward from Jeni Chehr, the range of elevations, which 
 exclude the sight of the plain from the sea, begins gradually to 
 decline; and on the northern extremity of the hill, the great tumulus, 
 usually called that of Achilles, attracts the eye by its magnitude, and 
 situation. On the right, adjoining to it, is a little convent of Turkish 
 
 1 A xgai, Iliad, book xiv. 34. 36. 
 
 2 The French ministers at Constantinople had made many fruitless attempts to rescue this 
 
 inscription, but it was at length secured by the care of Lord Elgin, and transported to England. 
 
 I 
 
ilervises. Below lliis sepulchre, towards I lie left, tlie summit of a 
 fourth mount is perceptible, which has been termed by travellers the 
 tumulus of Patroclus. Having passed lliese tombs, the bank or hill 
 of Jeni Chehr becomes so far reduced in height, as to be marked only 
 by the few poplars il produces. It is observable, that the rising 
 ground so pointed out, recedes from the modern shore, which is here 
 Hat, and almost on a level with the sea. It has been imagined, and 
 not without every degree of probability, that this low coast has been 
 produced by an accumulation of sand, brought down from the moun¬ 
 tains by tin* Simois, and that the rising ground indicates, at least, a 
 part of the most ancient boundary of the ocean. 
 

 PLATE XII. 
 
 T his small sketch comprises a part of the coast, about a mile in extent, 
 from the tumulus of Achilles on the right, to the castle of Koum Kale 
 on the left. Mount Ida is seen over the tumulus of Achilles, nearly 
 in the same direction, as in the preceding Plate. The summit of the 
 tumulus of Patroclus is also distinguishable; and between the high 
 poplars and the village of Koum Kale some rocks are discoverable, 
 which seem more positively to determine the original shore. The 
 village stands on a long point of sand terminated by the fortress, which 
 is often named the Castle of the Sand, in allusion to its situation. 
 The mountain, seen over the village, is that which divides the vale 
 of Thymbra from the Hellespont, and is a continuation of an extensive 
 chain, reaching from Gargarus to the sea, and forming the northern 
 and eastern boundary of the plain of Troy. Beyond the point of the 
 castle the shores again recede, and a shallow bay affords an anchorage 
 to the small vessels of the country. 
 
PLATE XIII. 
 
 The point of the I hracian Chersonesus becomes visible, after passino- 
 the rocks of the promontory of Troy. It is here represented as it 
 appeared from a vessel at sea, when not far distant from the tumulus 
 °f Antilochus. The hill and promontory of Jeni Chehr are seen in 
 profile, excluding by their position the view of the tumulus of Achilles. 
 The castle of Koum Kale is seen, as it was in the preceding sketch, 
 on the Asiatic side, and with De Tott's castle on the opposite coast, 
 contributes to the defence of the Hellespont. 
 
 On the summit of the hill, which terminates the peninsula of Thrace, 
 is seen a tumulus, similar in form to those on the Asiatic shore; and 
 it is perhaps determined, with as much precision, that this is the tomb 
 of Protesilaus, as that any of those in the vicinity are the assured tumuli 
 of the heroes to whom they have been assigned. Homer, however, 
 has left us no account of the spot where the tomb was constructed; 
 but he has afforded some documents, whence it may be inferred, that 
 the tumulus of Protesilaus should be sought on the European side of 
 the Hellespont. 
 
 The territories of Ilium had been ravaged by the army of the Greeks 
 before they attempted to land near the capital 1 . Thrace was a king¬ 
 dom either dependent on, or in alliance w ith Priam, and had therefore 
 either been compelled to submit, or was bound by more recent treaties 
 to the conquerors. Protesilaus was slain, landing on the Trojan coast, 
 long before the rest of the army"; and we find innumerable instances, 
 that the funeral rites were performed with all possible dispatch, after 
 the decease of the hero for whom they were celebrated. The idea, 
 that the spirit wandered naked and mournful, and incapable of enjoy¬ 
 ing the tranquillity of Elysium previous to the sepulture of the body, 
 
 See the speech of Achilles during his contest with Agamemnon in the beginning of the Iliad, See 
 Iliad ii. 698. 
 

 33 
 
 was an inducement to the compassionate survivors to expedite the 
 work 3 . 
 
 The Greeks having failed in the attempt to land, which was con¬ 
 ducted by Protesilaus, must have had recourse to the nearest shore for 
 the construction of his tumulus, where they had no enemy to 
 encounter; and such a shore the European coast alone afforded them. 
 Hence it is just to conclude, that the natives of this portion of Thrace 
 were not without authority, even from Homer,for assigning this tumulus 
 to Protesilaus. The honours that were paid to the hero in succeeding 
 ages are sufficiently known; but it is not the less interesting to observe 
 the apparent correspondence of the poem with the testimonies of a 
 more recent date. 
 
 Of the ancient authors, many have mentioned the tumulus of 
 Protesilaus, situated near the town of Eleum. The cape is yet called 
 Piles Bouroun, and near it Mr. Le Chevalier discovered the traces of 
 the city. 
 
 Plmy, as well as Quintus Curtins, informs us, that the trees which 
 grew round the tomb of Protesilaus were observed to wither as soon 
 as they were grown high enough to be seen from Ilium 4 ; but that they 
 shot up again till they arrived at the same height; a circumstance at 
 I hat time thought miraculously emblematic of the fate of the hero 5 , 
 but, in fact, naturally produced by the cold winds from the summit of 
 Ida, the effect of which had been broken, to a certain elevation, by the 
 intervening hill, on which the city of New Ilium was built. 
 
 Quintus Curtins also relates, that Alexander, preparing to attack 
 the Persians, sent his army into Asia from Sestos to Abydos, but 
 proceeded himself to Eleum, sacred to Protesilaus (where he sacrificed 
 
 3 Tile climate also rendered the immediate performance of these obsequies necessary. We find, 
 that the preservation of the body of Hector is attributed to supernatural influence, toward the end of 
 the Iliad. 
 
 4 Meaning, however, New Ilium. 
 
 It is pretended by one author on this subject, that the trees of a garden inclosing this tumulus 
 grew as tall as in other situations, excepting only those encircling the tomb. This spot, however, is 
 the most elevated of the promontory, and much exposed. Dr. Chandler has mentioned many parti¬ 
 culars of the Protesileon, and of the vineyard. 
 
to that hero) and thence passed over to Sigaeum. A temple had 
 existed here previous to the expedition of Xerxes, whose lieutenant, 
 Artayetes destroyed the edifice, under pretence that Protesilaus was 
 the first Greek who attacked the Persians 8 . There is a second tumulus 
 not far distant from this of Protesilaus, but not easily discoverable 
 from the sea. Further on is a third, which authors have unanimously 
 agreed to call the Cynossema, or 1 otnb of Hecuba. 
 
 The Asiatic shore, which, from the ruins of Alexandria to the 
 entrance of the Hellespont, has generally a northern direction, takes a 
 new inclination after reaching the castle of Koum Kale; and though 
 much indented by the sea, runs eastward as far as the tumulus of Ajax, 
 and the Rhsetean promontory. 
 
 The modern name of the tumulus is “ Elias Baba Tepe,” possibly some analogy may exist 
 between the names Elias and Eleus. 
 
35 
 
 PLATE XIV. 
 
 This little view is taken from a point where the rivers Scamander and 
 Simois, united, flow into the Hellespont, at the distance of two or 
 three hundred yards from the castle of Koum Kale. It contributes 
 to the demonstration of a necessity, on the part of Priam, to send out 
 a person from the city to watch the motions of the Greeks, who seem 
 to have been encamped upon the low lands, which are more distant 
 from Koum Kale than the present mouth of the rivers. This mouth 
 also appears to have been changed since the time of Homer; and for 
 such a change, a probable reason can be assigned. Polites, the son of 
 the Trojan king, was posted on the tumulus of iEsyetes, that he might 
 give early notice to the city of the movements of the enemy 1 . It is 
 evident, that the son of Priam would not have been sent on a dan¬ 
 gerous service, which required that lie should trust to his swiftness of 
 foot, if the object of such a mission could have been attained by 
 remaining in the city. 
 
 The hill, approaching to the centre of the design, is the southern 
 boundary of the vale of Thymbra, and on, or near it, is situated the 
 village of Tchiblak, which is supposed to occupy a spot not far from 
 the site of New Ilium. 
 
J(j 
 
 This hill of Tchiblak is so prominent as almost lo exclude the sight, 
 of the hill of Bounar.bashi, which Mr. Le Chevalier, and others after 
 him, have imagined to be the site of Troy. It follows, that if the 
 camp extended more toward the east, it must have been still more 
 concealed from the city by the hill, and though that part must have 
 been visible which lay near the Sigaean promontory. \cl that was the 
 quarter allotted to Achilles, ot w hose determination to remain inactive 
 the Trojans were probably aw are. On the hill of Tchiblak is a tumulus 
 w hich ! could not discover from this station. This has been taken for 
 that of rEsyetes by one author, and by another for that of Hits. The 
 latter is loo discordant from the evidence of Homer to need any 
 comment; the former opinion is perhaps just, though the tumulus of 
 Udjek is the only existing monument of that species, from w hich 
 rolites could have executed his commission, and \el have been in fear 
 of interception. Homer says, the encampment of the Greeks was on 
 the curved shore, between the two promontories. No promontories 
 exist as boundaries of any extensive plain on the Hellespont, except¬ 
 ing those called in after times the lliuelean and Sigaean; consequently 
 I he camp was here, extending over a part of the flat ground, the coast 
 ol which w ill be in the succeeding plate more clearly exhibited. If 
 then the camp was upon the present coast, the tumulus near Tchiblak 
 could not have been that of iEsvetes, for the tomb of the lull of 
 1 chiblak lies much nearer to the presumed situation of Troy at 
 Bounarbashi than does the camp; so that Polites would have been 
 jdmost three miles nearer to Troy than the enemy, and might have 
 returned quietly without fear of being intercepted; his swiftness on 
 this supposition would have been totally unnecessary. It would be 
 still more absurd to suppose the tumulus near Tchiblak was that of 
 /Esyetes, il New Ilium was found lo be the Troy of Homer; for the 
 tumulus is so near that town, and comparatively so far distant from 
 the camp, that swiftness of foot would have been a useless quality in 
 the scout. 
 
 Strabo justly observes, w hat could induce the Trojans lo send a 
 scout to the tumulus of /Esyetes, when the view from the Acropolis 
 of New Troy was so much preferable? Now the view from New' 
 Iroy, or Ilium, is not preferable to the view from this tumulus, but is 
 somewhat less extensive, though on the same range of hills, and con- 
 
37 
 
 sequently the tumulus near Tchiblak is not that which Strabo took 
 for that of Hisyetes. 
 
 At the same time it must he allowed that Strabo might call a view 
 preferable, as being safer and within the walls. The hill of Tchiblak 
 is also in a direct line between Troy and the camp, and we have the 
 authority of that geographer, in proof that the sea in his time was only 
 twelve stadia distant from that eminence. He even adds, that the 
 water had receded six stadia between the a?ra of the Trojan war and 
 the seign of Tiberius, in which case the Greeks would certainly have 
 been so near to the hill of Tchiblak as to render the swiftness of 
 Polites very necessary. It is to be regretted that Homer has not 
 informed us on which side of the plain the tumulus of jEsyetes stood. 
 If the sea was within six stadia of New Ilium, the tumuli of Tchiblak 
 and Udjek have an equal claim to the appellation, one only having a 
 more close view of the camp, wlule the other had a prospect over the 
 land and sea to a very great extent. 
 
PLATE XV. 
 
 I he tumulus of Udjek occupies a commanding elevation in the centre 
 of the upper portion of this plate. It is seated on a low branch of Ida, 
 which forms the western boundary of the plain of Troy, and is perhaps 
 one of ihe best situations from which Polites would have the advantage 
 ot completely overlooking I he camp, and at the same time be under 
 the necessity ol making a speedy retreat, m case of a movement on the 
 part of the enemy. Udjek is not so far from Troy as the camp, but the 
 way from it being rough and uneven, while that from the ships was 
 smooth and in the plain, ihe swiftness of Polites would have been 
 necessary to save himself by entering the city before the enemy should 
 arrive at the gates. Ot all tin- monuments therefore now existing, 
 Udjek has (he best title to the name of jEsyetes according to Homer, 
 if that, near Tchiblak be excepted, and it is certainly not easy to deter¬ 
 mine to which station Polites was sent. 
 
 The testimony of Strabo may also help to prove that one of these is 
 the tumulus of .Esj f etes. That author saw the tomb near the rot id 
 leading from New Ilium to Alexandria. The tumulus near Tchiblak, 
 as well as that of Udjek, is near that road, and it has been shown that 
 it has a correspondence with the tumulus of the Iliad, while any other 
 tumulus between the two now existing, must have been seated in a 
 low part of the plain, and have afforded no prospect. 
 
 The other objects illustrated by this engraving, are the plain 
 extending in a long unwearied line to the promontory of Sigteum, and 
 the situation of the tumulus of Ajax on the opposite cape. At the 
 extremity of the plain toward the right is the little village and castle 
 of Koum Kale. Over one of the mosques the tumulus of Achilles is 
 visible, and above it are discovered the wind-mills of Jeni Chehr. 
 
 I he chain ot elevations to the left of Jem Chehr, are those which 
 have been exhibited from the sea, and on which are situated the 
 
tumulus of Antilochus and the villao-e of Jeni Kevi. To the right of the 
 tumulus oi Udjek, the other opening of the plain toward the sea is 
 perceived, through which flows the canal forming the new mouth of 
 the Scamander. This has been shown from the sea in the lowest 
 division of the tenth plate. Proceeding again toward the left from 
 the tomb of Udjek, the pointed summits of the hill above Alex¬ 
 andria are discovered in the distance, in a situation whence it would 
 he easy to overlook the plain, the navy, and the bay. It is not 
 improbable that this may have been the summit of Ida Lectum, being, 
 in fact, the most elevated of the chain extending toward Cape Baba. 
 These points are observable from Mitylene* as well as from the 
 Hellespont". The nearest hill on the left is the promontory which 
 formed one of the boundaries of the Grecian camp, and on the point 
 is seen a tumulus. A, which, from its position, is probably that of 
 Ajax. This in the time of Strabo was called Aianteum, and was con¬ 
 tiguous to the town ol Rhseteum, whence the name of the promontory 
 was derived. We are certain that Ajax was entombed before Troy; 
 for Homer introduces Nestor in the Odyssey, observing toTelemachus, 
 that under the spacious walls of Priam, lie warlike Ajax, Achilles, 
 Patroclus, and Antilochus. That here was the tomb of Ajax is to be 
 deduced also from Homer himself by a parallel instance; as we are 
 informed in the Odyssey, that the tumulus of Achilles was near the 
 station he occupied in the camp, and we find that the tumulus of 
 Patroclus was so from the Iliad. Hence it is a reasonable inference, 
 that the sepulchre of Ajax was near his station, and [hat station was 
 on the left of the Grecian ships when drawn up on the shore 1 2 3 . 
 
 An additional reason is also given by Sophocles for the situation of 
 the sepulchre of Ajax, near, and to the left of the camp. In the tragedy 
 of Ajax, the chorus observing the approach of Menelaus, who was 
 hostile to the interment of that hero, says, “ Haste, Teucer, make a 
 hollow foss for the remains of Ajax, and raise over him a tomb never 
 to be forgotten.” Now Menelaus being encamped on the right of 
 
 1 Plate I, letter B. 
 
 2 This is a point so much more lofty than the ridges mentioned by Strabo, quoted by Mr. Morrit 
 and Mr. Bryant, that it is only necessary to look at the plate to be convinced that though the country 
 was separated by ridges, they did not prevent all distant views. 
 
 3 Iliad xii. 118. Ajax and Idomeneus were vywv &r 
 
■Ajax, I hose who were to make haste must necessarily have retreated 
 toward I lie left, in order to perform the ceremonies. The tumulus is 
 at present called In Tepe Ghelu. 
 
 I he shore of the plain is so nearly on a level with the sea, that it is 
 scarcely possible to give any idea of it from a vessel; and it was this 
 flatness which occasioned the marsh called by the ancients Stomalimne. 
 Heraclides observed, that the allegory of the pestilence sent by Apollo, 
 in the first book ol ihe Iliad, alluded to the plague produced bv the 
 noxious vapours of the marsh when excited bv the heat of a scorching 
 sun. 
 
 It becomes necessary, in this place, to particularize the present 
 appearance of the station of the Greeks, and to compare it with the 
 accounts left us by the ancients. Beyond the point of Rhaeteum (A) 
 is a deep inlet of the sea, having the resemblance of a considerable 
 river. I his is now called Karanlik Liman, or the closed port. There 
 are two similar creeks between the tumulus of Ajax and Koran Ivale, 
 into each of which the rivers bimois and Scamander may have succes¬ 
 sively discharged their waters. The tongues of land between these 
 inlets have probably encroached upon the sea, and occupy the space 
 where once was the port of the Greeks, as the name Karanlik Liman 
 implies that such a port existed in this quarter. 
 
 I hat the Trojan rivers fell into the Hellespont near the site of the 
 tomb of Ajax, at the time of the encampment of the Greeks, appears 
 probable from Homer, for if the streams had passed the camp near the 
 station of Achilles, the fords of Simois only (it such existed) would 
 have been in the road to 1Toy. Xo such fords are however men¬ 
 tioned, nor does it any where appear that the river passed through 
 the camp. If again, the rivers formed the boundary of the camp on 
 the side of Achilles, the united streams must have been first crossed, 
 arid afterwards the Scamander or Xanthus alone, in the tr ay to Troy 4 , 
 for it is evident the fords of Xanthus were in the direct road, beino 
 passed by Priam in his journey to the camp, and by the Trojans when 
 flying before Achilles. 
 
 4 This may be seen by consulting the map. 
 
41 
 
 We find no mention of the two fords, those only of Xauthus occur¬ 
 ring in the Iliad. These fords of the Scamander were also above the 
 junction, as will be shown at a future opportunity 5 . That the rivers 
 did not divide the station of the Greeks may he collected from the 
 circumstance of the mart, the places of worship, and courts of justice, 
 having been placed in the centre of the camp. These, added to the 
 communication necessary for the opposite quarters of the encampment, 
 are sufficient reasons for supposing that places of such general resort 
 were not in a position liable to be rendered very difficult of access by 
 the sudden increase of a gulphy and rapid river. 
 
 Moreover, at the present day, the Simois, when deprived of almost 
 the whole tribute of the Xanthus, lias a channel one hundred yards in 
 breadth and three feet in depth, it must often have become a most 
 inconvenient separation to the encampment, particularly as it runs with 
 great rapidity, and if it be objected that the Simois d uring the summer 
 is only an inconsiderable stream, yel it should he observed that the 
 armies could not have supported such a separation as the river must 
 at times have occasioned, without manifest disadvantage, for so short 
 a space as a month. The people of the country said, that the rains 
 in the first week of November, previous to my visit to the Troad, had 
 filled the ch annel of the Simois; in the beginning of December I saw 
 it full and rapid; and I saw it in the last week of January equally 
 violent, though the melting of the snow had not then commenced on 
 Ida, which has been generally supposed to be the only supply of this 
 river. If then we are tolerably certain that the Simois is not only a 
 river, but a large one during three or four of the winter months, it 
 ought not to be considered merely as an occasional torrent, or an 
 immortal rivulet. Having observed that the river could not have ter¬ 
 minated the camp on the right, and that it is highly improbable it 
 should have passed through the camp, it, remains to be shown, that 
 the left was bounded by the stream. Homer introduces Achilles 
 saying, that Hector would never attack the camp on the quarter where 
 he commanded 6 . We also find, that when the camp was stormed, it 
 was at the station of Ajax. Now Ajax defended the ship of Protesi- 
 laus 7 , which was near his own 8 . Patroclus came to his assistance and 
 
 5 See dissertation on Plate 19. 6 II. ix. 650. 7 11. xxv. 8 11. xiii. 681. 
 
 M 
 
drove olT the Trojans, who were pursued to a little distance 9 . 1 hat 
 hero returning to the ships, met the Lycian auxiliaries, who had not 
 lied as soon as the Trojans, and their leader Sarpedon was slain. 
 Hence it is evident, that the Lycians were engaged at the left ot the 
 Greek camp when Patroclus arrived at the ship of Protesilaus, and 
 even more to the left than that ship, for otherwise they would have 
 escaped prior to the flight of Hector, as all who saw the armour of 
 Achilles lied. 
 
 The intercepted Lycians were slaughtered between the ships, the 
 wall of the camp, and the river; consequently the river must have 
 been on the left of the camp, and near the station of Ajax. 
 
 This also proves that the stream was at that time copious and rapid, 
 for if not, it would have been incapable of presenting an impassible 
 barrier to the Lycians, who doubtless would have crossed it if that 
 method of saving themselves had been practicable 10 . 
 
 The Greeks, when drawn up in battle array, overspread the Sea- 
 mandrian plain”. It will be shown in the dissertation on Plate 17- 
 that the portion distinguished by that name lay on the left bank of 
 the Scamander, a circumstance almost decisive with regard to the posi¬ 
 tion of the camp. 
 
 The opinion of Sophocles is not of much weight; yet that poet 
 certainly thought, that the Scamander ran near the tents of Ajax, who 
 is introduced making an address to the neighbouring Scamander, 
 which is styled by I he hero, “ beneficent to the Greeks,” as if that river 
 had supplied the camp with water, which was possibly the case. 
 
 A few observations made on the map may help to confirm this idea 
 of the position of the river; by referring to which it may be seen, 
 
 9 II. xxvi. 
 
 10 I am happy to call to my assistance on this occasion the opinion of the learned Bryant, who 
 observes that, “ Such, according to the Poet, is the situation of the Scamander and the disposition of 
 the Grecian army, which to the left was bounded by it.” Vide Expostulation addressed to the 
 British Critic. 
 
 11 Iliad ii. 46-5. 
 
that the Scamander, before its diversion, would probably, by its never 
 failing stream, have caused the bed of the united rivers to incline 
 toward the tumulus of Ajax, as much as the Simois when unresisted 
 by the waters of the Scamander, has in later times inclined to the 
 station of Achilles. Indeed on the road between Koum Kevi and the 
 bridge of Koum Kale many cavities are found, sometimes containing 
 water, and generally pointing toward the Rhaetean promontory. 
 These have every resemblance to a decayed channel, and if they 
 did not originally convey the rivers to the sea, the use of them will 
 not be easily discovered. Such are the arguments deduced from the 
 Poet and from personal observation, which seem clearly to demon¬ 
 strate, that the ancient mouth of the Scamander was on the left of 
 the camp. 
 
 The following are among the natural causes, added to the diversion 
 of the Xanthus, which may account for the present outlet of the 
 Simois near Koum Kale. 
 
 The current of the Hellespont runs with rapidity from the Rhaetean 
 to the Sigaean promontory. The sand brought down by the Simois, 
 which even discolours the sea, is by this forced upon the left bank 
 of the river, which of course increases in time to such a degree as to 
 block up the stream. Now the plain is so flat in this part, that the 
 smallest obstruction in one quarter would divert the stream to another, 
 and the river could not change toward the east, for there the Rhaetean 
 hill would oppose it. The bank of sand thrown up at the mouth 
 must therefore occasion a removal of the bed of the river toward the 
 west; and thus it has continually approached nearer to Sigaeum. It 
 may he added, that the eastern part of the coast being the first covered 
 with sand and earthy depositions was also the first to produce vegeta¬ 
 tions, and must consequently increase in elevation sufficiently to pro¬ 
 mote this gradual movement of the river toward the west. The proof 
 is, that the rivers continue to advance nearer to Koum Kale at the 
 present day; and that the left, or western bank of the river is a heap 
 of sand, yearly increasing and running out in a point toward the right; 
 while the latter is a compact solid plain covered with verdure, and 
 scarcely to be called a marsh at the time of my visit. The river must, 
 however, be nearly arrived at its last station; as the commencement of 
 
the hill of Sigaeum or Jeni Chehr will prevent its further progress to 
 the west. 
 
 The lower part of this plate represents the view from the mouth of 
 the rivers Simois and Scamander, looking toward the Archipelago. 
 On the right is seen the bank of sand formed by the Simois, which is 
 still the station of little boats called Piedi, a species of vessel much used 
 in the Hellespont. 1 he castle of Koum Kale and the public coffee¬ 
 house of the town terminate the view on the left. The island of 
 Imbros occupies the centre of the plate, and the mountains of Samo- 
 thrace are also visible when the atmosphere is clear. They are not 
 represented, as they w r ere not seen during the time employed on the 
 design. The coast on the right is that of the Chersonesus, of which 
 a sufficient account has already been given. 
 
45 
 
 PLATE XVI 
 
 I have hitherto confined the description of the Troad to the coast; 
 the rivers Scainander and Simois may now be traced toward their 
 respective sources, and such places in the vicinity pointed out, as 
 appear to have any connection with the battles and events of the 
 Iliad. 
 
 At the distance of about one mile from the castle of Koum Kale, the 
 road leading to the fortress of the Dardanelles, to Lampsacus, Koum 
 Kevi, Kalifatli, and Bounarbashi, crosses the Simois, and traverses the 
 marshy portion of the plain. In this Plate (No. XVI.) the long wooden 
 bridge over the river is exhibited; and will be sufficient to contradict 
 the prevailing idea of the insignificance of the stream, which is at least 
 one hundred yards broad. The ground on the right bank is low, and 
 covered with turf and rushes. That on the left is higher near the 
 bridge, and laid out in small enclosures, which are terminated toward 
 the sea by the sand thrown up by the Simois. Between the trees the 
 mosque of Koum Kale is visible. The European shore is also seen 
 beyond the Hellespont. On the Asiatic side, the castle of the Darda¬ 
 nelles occupies a point near the centre of the view; and the hills, 
 extending from it toward the right, are those which terminate at the 
 tumulus of Ajax. The mount from which this view is taken is now 
 used as a Turkish burying ground, and is prettily planted with young 
 cypresses, like almost every other place of that description in the East. 
 The insulated situation of this eminence is such, that it is scarcely 
 possible to imagine it natural; yet I do not recollect to have seen or 
 heard, that a hill of this kind was ever thrown up by the Turks, before 
 they appropriated the ground to the uses of sepulture. If then this 
 monument be neither natural nor of Turkish origin, we must examine 
 the Iliad till some part of the poem points out a tumulus, in, or near, 
 the situation. It is related at the close of the seventh book, that the 
 Greeks constructed a common sepulchre, over those who had been 
 slain in the preceding engagements, and near, or upon it, they erected 
 
 N 
 
40 
 
 Avails and turrets to defend the ships and camp; making gates, and a 
 broad ditch thickly set with stakes, to complete the fortification. It 
 is plain therefore, that such a monument might even yet exist, especi¬ 
 ally as it is not mentioned in the relation of the deluge, which was 
 destined by Jupiter and Neptune for the destruction of the walls; nor 
 indeed would a tumulus, from its natural durability, be liable to be 
 overthrown by the Same flood, which was sufficient to sweep away a 
 rampart composed of wood and stones, the work of a single night. 
 
 The battle, which occasioned the erection of this tumulus, had taken 
 place on the banks of Scamander, where many Greeks lay dead 1 , and 
 the armies were on that occasion drawn up between the Simois and 
 that river 2 . Now the Greeks selected their own people from the 
 heap of slain, and removed them to the vicinity of the camp where 
 the pyre Avas erected. 
 
 The bodies coming from the Trojan plain between the rivers, yet 
 also from the banks of Scamander, must have passed the Scamandrian 
 fords, and it is reasonable to conclude, that they would not be carried 
 to a greater distance than was necessary from the place Avhere they 
 fell. By consulting the map it will be observed, that such a situation 
 is that of the present tumulus; and it seems to have been mentioned 
 by Homer with the Avails of the camp, as if the mount had formed 
 part of the defence, or perhaps an angle of the fortification. Hence 
 it seems probable, that the enclosures between the present bed of the 
 river and the village of Jeni Chehr occupy the station of Achilles; 
 for the walls of the Greek camp do not appear to have included the 
 troops of that hero, Avhose superior valour created such respect for 
 his neutrality in the minds of the enemy. 
 
 The funereal monuments Avliich noAv overspread this mount are of 
 marble. The males are honoured with a turban carved and painted 
 after the manner of those they wore Avhen living, while the females are 
 only distinguished by the pointed pillars at each extremity of their 
 graves. 
 
 Iliad vii. 329- 
 
 Iliad \ 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
PLATE XVII. 
 
 1 he junction of the rivers Scamander and Siniois in the plain between 
 the city Troy and the sea, is mentioned by Homer 1 . Juno and Pallas 
 are said to alight on that spot when they descended to aid the Greeks. 
 The streams, thus united, separated the plain into three portions. The 
 central division was called theTrojan, and sometimes the Ilieian Field 2 . 
 That part which extended along the left bank of Scamander was called 
 the Scamandrian Field 3 , and although we find no mention in the Iliad 
 of that portion of the plain, situated on the right bank of the Simois, 
 it is a natural inference that it received its name from the neighbouring 
 stream, and indeed we have the authority of Strabo for calling it the 
 Simoisian Field 4 5 . 
 
 1 II. v. 774.. 2 11. x. 11. zsreSiov Tp utx.ov and 'nr&iov IXiqviov. 
 
 3 '&thov Xx^x^av^piov, II. ii. 465. 4 xxi. 557. 
 
 5 It has been doubted whether the names of the two rivers have not been mistaken by Mr. Le 
 Chevalier. Dr. Chandler, speaking of the French account, says, “ reader, believe it not.” It may 
 be useful to give some of the reasons which appear to place the Scamander on the left of the plain, 
 when the observer is at Bounarbashi, although I am well aware that such reasons have often been 
 stated by writers on the Plain of Troy. 
 
 Hector is described in one of the battles coming down from Troy, and combating on the left of 
 the battle is on the banks of Scamander. Ilomer also mentions the two sources of Scamander near 
 together, and at a little distance from the Sctean gate of Troy, which gate opened upon the plain and 
 ships. The characteristics of the river termed Scamander by Le Chevalier are so precisely those 
 described by Homer, as to leave no room to suppose the springs should be sought on the summit of 
 Gargarus. Homer implies, in one passage, the descent of this stream from Ida; but Ida with its 
 branches intersects the whole of Phrygia, and under one of these branches of the mountain, the 
 springs of Scamander are found at this day. The authority of Pliny also will add greatly to the proof. 
 That naturalist came from Alexandria Troas on the south, and proceeding toward the north, found 
 in his way, first, the Scamander, a navigable stream. This seems to have been the canal which now 
 continues to divert the greater part of the water of the river. Continuing his course northward he 
 came to Sigaeum, and the port of the Grecians, into which the Xanthus and Simois flowed, making 
 a marsh called the Old Scamander. It is not improbable that Pliny was acquainted with the original 
 bed of the river, but the similitude between the tvuXcu of the Greeks and of the palus of the Romans 
 is such as to account for the neglect of a traveller in entering into a more particular detail. Those 
 who are fond of allegory imagine the combat of Achilles with Scamander to have signified the turning 
 that river into the present canal, in order to drain the marshes it occasioned near that hero’s camp, 
 which is well known to have been on the left when seen from Troy. To those who have been 
 influenced by the present name of the Simois, Mindere Su, it may be observed, that the united 
 rivers were generally termed Scamander only, and that at any rate the name is allusive merely to the 
 winding of its course. The Meander is still called Boiuc Mindere for the same reason. 
 
In this view the observer stands in the Trojan plain, at the precise 
 point where the rivers Simois on ihe right, and Scamander on the left, 
 are united. The high ground in the distance toward the left is the 
 hill now occupied by the village of Jeni Chehr, and the site of the 
 ancient Sigaeum. The eye continuing along this range toward the 
 right, catches the tumulus of Achilles, and at a short distance from it 
 the tumulus ofPatroclus is just discernible. The Chersonesus is also 
 seen beyond the flat line of the plain, and is separated from the Asia- 
 lic shore by the Hellespont, which is pointed out by the masts of 
 vessels. To the left of these the mosques of Koum Kale, and a long 
 line of trees, demonstrate the course of the united rivers to the sea. 
 The mount covered with scattered fragments, distinguishable by the 
 two figures, has the appearance of a ruined tumulus. On the left of 
 it is a marsh. The decayed piers of a bridge, conspicuous in the 
 midst of the rivers and centre of the view, are the remnants which in¬ 
 dicate the point where the road from New Ilium to Alexandrian 
 Troas crossed the stream. The Scamander is here reduced to the 
 size of a small rivulet, such as may be passed by a person on foot, 
 though not without some difficulty. This is accounted for by the cir¬ 
 cumstance that a canal cut from that river, at a greater distance from 
 the Hellespont, has diverted the water from its natural course, and 
 left only a small quantity in the ancient bed 6 . 
 
 The mount which is seen across the Scamander, is in a situation in 
 every respect so correspondent to the tomb of llus, described in the 
 Iliad, that there can be little doubt of its identity. The arguments in 
 favour of this position will be found in the dissertation on the succeed¬ 
 ing plate; for the situation of the tomb of II us is necessarily connected 
 with those of the mount Throsmos and the fords of Scamander. A 
 distinguishing feature of lhis tomb, as described by the poet, is that 
 it w as a great one , probably of such dimensions on account of the 
 great renown of the monarch whose ashes it contained. A pillar was 
 erected upon it, behind the shaft of which a person might stand in 
 security, for Paris was concealed by it when he wounded the foot of 
 Diomed with an arrow 8 . The tumulus here represented is larger than 
 
 5 This will be shown in Piute xix. and may be also seen in the map. 
 
49 
 
 any other in the vicinity. The column has of course yielded to the 
 attacks of time and human malice, i he large stones which overspread 
 ihe sod, seem to have belonged to some edifice erected in later times, 
 and have possibly contributed to the building of a temple of the 
 Corinthian order; a mutilated but well designed capital of which lies 
 on the western side of the monument. 
 
 The heap of earth of which the tumulus is composed, appears to 
 have been destroyed by art, and the centre is excavated in such a 
 manner, as to leave two almost separate summits, which are distin¬ 
 guishable in this and the succeeding plate. On the left is a little 
 marsh, and beyond the tumulus is a channel which seems to have 
 once served for the discharge of its waters into the Simois 9 . By the 
 side of this channel lies a second capital, similar to that before men¬ 
 tioned. It is worthy ol remark, that those who have sought for the 
 tumulus of IIus, have confined their researches to the point of land 
 between the two rivers. They may have been influenced by the 
 translation ol the word in the account of the journey of Priam; 
 and of which more will be said in the account of the following view. 
 If such a position were necessary, the marsh seen on the left, with the 
 channel connecting it with the Simois may have been the original bed 
 of the Scamander. 
 
 In Plate XVIII. it may be ob served, that the perfect flatness of the 
 ground immediately under the tomb of Ilus, renders it possible that 
 the Scamander anciently joined the Simois about one hundred yards 
 lower than at present, leaving the tomb of Ilus, where it has been so 
 often sought, exactly on Lhe point of the Trojan field. 
 
 ’ This channel may be discovered by those who visit the spot, by walking from a small insulated 
 garden on the left bank of the river, to the tumulus at the junction. The mouth of it is choked 
 with sand, by which it may be passed. 
 
50 
 
 PLATE XVIII. 
 
 I his plate is rendered interesting by the consideration, that it exhibits 
 l he original bed of the Scamander, with every angle formed by that 
 winding stream near its junction with the Simois. The existence of 
 such a junction having been doubted, 1 have been particularly cautious 
 to trace with fidelity every part of the course. The sea visible on the 
 left is the Hellespont, which is terminated on the right by the hill and 
 promontory occupied by the tumulus of Ajax. Toward the centre of 
 lhe view, proceeding from that tumulus toward the right, is the little 
 village of Koum Kevi, the vale of Thymbra, and at the extremity the 
 calieolone of Pope, or hill of Tchiblak. Fhe Simoisian field occupies 
 the whole of I he centre of the view from left to right, and the Simois 
 itself is observable, flowing between that division and the Trojan or 
 Ilieian field. The nearer river is the Scamander, and the whole fore¬ 
 ground is in the Scamandrian plain. At the confluence of the streams 
 the tumulus of Ilus with its two tops is seen. The nearest part of 
 the foreground is a portion of a round knowl, which answers to the 
 description of the Throsmos or mount of the plain. 
 
 The bridge over the Scamander, consisting of four arches, is a con¬ 
 vincing proof, that even at the time of its erection, that river was more 
 copious than at present 1 . 
 
 The tomb of Ilus and the mount of the plain are points concerning 
 which a variety of opposite sentiments has arisen. The poet has, how¬ 
 ever, left many indications of I he real position of these monuments, 
 
 ' Since my return to England I have heard it asserted, that the little bridge here represented on 
 the right, was situated close to the junction of the rivers. It is a matter of little consequence, except 
 as to my accuracy as a draughtsman. I can, however, appeal to my companions as to the fact, 
 when we were upon the spot. Having finished our sketches of the tumulus of Ilus, we were at a loss 
 where to repass the Scamander with dry shoes, when by chance, a man on horseback rode over the 
 bridge, and discovered that path to us. A proof that the bridge was not very near to the confluence 
 of the streams. 
 

 
 
 51 
 
 and sucl] as appear to fix them on the banks of Xanthus, and near the 
 confluence of the rivers. The Throsmos or elevation of the plain was 
 in the neighbourhood of Scamander 3 , and between that river and the 
 ships 3 . 11 was also so near the ships that the tumult of the Trojan camp 
 was heard by the Greeks on the shore*. The elevation, a segment of 
 which forms (he nearest part of the foreground of this plate, corre¬ 
 sponds with the situation and character of (lie Throsmos of the Iliad. 
 If it can he shown that Throsmos was near the tumulus of Ilus, that 
 the tumulus of Ilus was near the ford of Scamander, and that the ford 
 was near, yet a little above the confluence of the rivers, it cannot he 
 denied that the subjects represented in the present view, are the 
 Throsmos, ford, and tumulus described by the poet. That Throsmos 
 was near (he tomb of Ilus may be learned from the circumstance, that 
 when the Trojans were encamped upon the mount, Hector called a 
 council upon the tumulus of that king. Now the tomb of Ilus was in 
 such a situation with regard to the Trojan camp, that the tumult of 
 the soldiery did not interrupt the debates 3 . Also it could not have 
 been far from the camp, if advanced before it, for that would have 
 been impossible when the enemy were so near; and if it be objected, 
 that the tomb of Ilus might have been nearer to the town than the 
 Throsmos, and consequently that a council would have been secure 
 even at a great distance from the Trojan camp, yet such a supposition 
 is inconsistent with the custom of the times; when military councils 
 seem to have been held beyond the lines of a camp, and advanced 
 toward the enemy. In compliance with this system, Agamemnon 
 called a council of war while Hector was stationed on the monument 
 of Ilus, and though the Greeks were in the utmost consternation after 
 their late defeat, yet the monarch and his associates passed the foss 
 and rampart of their own camp, and chose a place for the council on 
 the field of battle, advanced toward the Trojans, where there remained 
 a small space unincumbered with Lhe slain. 
 
 It may be added in confirmation of this argument, that Agamemnon 
 had on that evening convened the Greek princes to supper in his own 
 tent; where, if it had not been the custom to pass the lines of the 
 encampment in order to hold a council, every thing relating to the 
 embassy to Achilles might easily have been arranged. 
 
 ! 11. viii. line 556 and 490. 3 556. 4 x. 160. 5 x. 416. 
 
II then the Greeks, dismayed and defeated as they were, held their 
 council advanced before their camp, the Trojan chief, flushed with 
 Mctory, would have little to tear on the monument of Ibis. 
 
 ft seems from these circumstances that this tumulus must have been 
 very near the I lirosmos, and that it might have been somewhat nearer 
 to the Greek camp than that elevation. Homer himself lias informed 
 ns that the tomb of Ilus was near the ford of Scainander, for he relates 
 that Priam, going from the city with the herald Idmus to redeem the 
 body of Hector, met the god Mercury, after he had staved near the 
 sepulchre of Ilus, that Ins horses and mules might drink of the river". 
 Here it may be objected that the poet says, the horses were allowed 
 to drink after they had passed the tomb of Ilus, and consequently that 
 the tumulus in question would be on the wrong side of the water. 
 But the Greek w ill equally admit of the translation by the tomb or on 
 one side of it. The word is used in this instance and occurs in 
 another place 7 , in a way that cannot be mistaken; for Dolon being 
 perceived by Diomed and Ulysses, the latter conceal themselves 
 pSt so as to suffer the spy to pass them in order to intercept his retreat 8 . 
 
 It remains to be shown that the ford of Scamander was above, yet 
 near to the confluence of that river with the Simois. The Trojans, 
 Hying from the fury of Achilles in the battle of the twenty-first book, 
 arrived at the fords of the Xanthus 9 . There the routed army sepa¬ 
 rated into two divisions. One plunged into the river in the vain hope 
 to reach the town, and there a great slaughter was made by Achilles. 
 
 I lie divinity of the Scamander, incensed at the pollution of his waters 
 by the bleeding carcasses of his votaries, poured a deluge on the hero 
 who was scarce able to withstand the stream. At that time also 
 Xanthus with a loud voice called his brother Simois to his aid, an 
 invocation which would have been unnecessary, had the Simois been 
 flowing in the same lied 10 . 
 
 ‘ xxiv. 349. 7 x. 349. 
 
 ' The concluding passages of the dissertation on Plate xvii. wilt perhaps be satisfactory to those 
 who wish to see the tomb of Ilus on the right bank of the Scamander. • xx i. o 
 
 ” Major Helvig, a learned Swede, has observed in Ids remarks on this circumstance, that the 
 nvers never untied in the plain, for if they d.d, whence proceeded this application to the Simois? 
 Ivow It appears that this gentleman had forgotten the line 774 of the fifth book of the Iliad, which 
 informs us that they did join, and that lie had overlooked the spot exhibited in this plate. The 
 arguments of Major Helvig therefore tend only to prove that the Scamander and Simois were not 
 united at tile fords, which is the fact I endeavour to ascertain. 
 
53 
 
 Another argument in favour of this position is, that two fords are 
 never mentioned in the Iliad between the city Troy and the camp of 
 the Greeks. Now if the rivers under the name of Scamander ran 
 into the Hellespont near the post of Ajax, a person going in a direct 
 line from Troy to the camp must have traversed, first, the Simois, and 
 secondly, the united streams. But there is no mention of the fords of 
 Simois, nor of any two fords in succession, and consequently the road 
 could not have been on that side of the plain. Again, if the rivers 
 entered the Hellespont, as at present, near the station of Achilles, it 
 would have been absolutely absurd to cross the river at any other 
 place than that now occupied hy the bridge. 
 
 By observing the course of the rivers in a map it will appear, that 
 no place could exist below the point of confluence, by which a per¬ 
 son, traversing one ford only, could arrive at Troy from the camp. 
 This observation is equally just, whether the rivers ran toward the 
 east or the west after their junction, and will, perhaps, be thought 
 decisive. Having thus given the reasons for the connexion of the 
 tomb of Ilus with the fords of Xanthus and the mount Throsmos, it 
 only remains to be observed, that the situation of this mount is per¬ 
 fectly adapted to the disposition of the Trojans and their allies, as 
 described by Dolon. Extending toward the sea, between the mount 
 and the hill now occupied by the tumulus of Antilochus, were sta¬ 
 tioned the Leleges, Caucoues, Carians, Paeonians, and Pelasgi 11 . On 
 the other side, the Lycians, Mysians, Phrygian cavalry, Masonians, 
 and newly arrived Thracians, were encamped on the plain toward the 
 town of Thymbra. 
 
 The Thracians also are found at the extremity of the right wing, in 
 the exact position that the troops coming from Thrace must have oc¬ 
 cupied. 
 
 " II. x. 430. 
 

 PLATE XIX. 
 
 GENERAL VIEW FROM THE TOMB OF ANTILOCHUS. 
 
 I his very extensive view is taken from the tumulus of Antilochus, 
 and the curved summit of that monument forms the foreground to the 
 picture'. 
 
 In the description of this plate I will begin on the left, where the 
 sea appears terminated on the horizon by the Thracian Chersonesus, 
 on the summit of which the tumulus of Protesilaus is visible. The 
 view of the European coast is interrupted bv the hill of Jeni Chehr, 
 or Sigseum, and some of the houses are discernible. The castle of 
 the Dardanelles is seen in the distance, a little to the right of that 
 village; and the channel of the Hellespont, (below which appears that 
 portion of the plain once occupied by the Greek camp) is marked by 
 two ships. I he Hellespont is bounded on the right by a range of 
 fills, near the projecting point of one of which is the tumulus of Ajax. 
 The Rhastean promontory, on which that monument is situated, is 
 well defined in this view, and the creek, which washes the base of 
 the hill, marks the ancient port of the Greeks. Tt has been asserted, 
 that there yet remain ruins on the range of hills near the tumulus of 
 
 1 The necessity of a general view is such, that without it no very correct idea could be formed of 
 the appearance of the plain. I have here taken the liberty, which I have used on many other 
 occasions, of extending the drawing on each side, till all the interesting objects of the country are 
 included. The plate is of a sufficient magnitude to permit the observer to elevate the extremities of 
 the paper on the right and left, so that, by placing the eye in the centre, and turning the head toward 
 such parts as he wishes to examine, he will have the objects in the exact direction in which they 
 appear to a person on the spot. It will be necessary for those, who find a difficulty in comprehending 
 with the eye more than sixty degrees at the same time, to consider this view, as composed of three 
 separate pictures; as by the map it may be seen, that it includes somewhat more than one hundred 
 and eighty degrees. The battle of Lodi, and some other pictures, have been exhibited in London 
 under the same circumstances. The whole being taken with the help of a protractor, the distances 
 are almost mathematically exact. It should be observed, that the foreground represents merely the 
 conic summit of the tumulus, the base of which, in its proper proportion, would be at least six feet in 
 diameter, and a figure standing on it would be eight or nine inches in height. None, however, is 
 introduced, as it would have excluded some of the mountains, or part of the plain. The portion of 
 the tumulus here shown is not, in fact, more that six or seven yards in diameter. 
 
55 
 
 Ajax; and some liave affirmed, that Constantine had actually com¬ 
 menced the erection of his intended city in this situation. There were 
 however two towns in this vicinity, Rhaeteum and yEanteiim. The 
 ruins in question may be the remnant of one of those stations. 
 
 Proceeding toward the right, the vale of Thymbra, now Thymbreck, 
 appears, with the little village of Koum Kevi almost in the centre. 
 The towns of Thymbreck and Halil Eli, where are the ruins of the 
 temple of Apollo Thymbrceus, are situated nearer to the upper extre¬ 
 mity of the vale. Dares Phrygius and Dictys Cretensis seem to 
 think, that the temple of Apollo Thymbrseus and its precinct were 
 accounted inviolable by the Greek and Trojan armies; individuals of 
 those nations often meeting, without committing acts of hostility, in 
 a spot esteemed equally sacred by each, before the death of Achilles. 
 To the right of the vale of Thymbra is seen a line of eminences termi¬ 
 nating in a point, which projects toward the spectator far into the 
 Simoisian plain. This appears to be the situation chosen by Mr. Pope 
 for the Callicoloue, or beautiful hill, where the divinities who favoured 
 Troy held their councils’: nor has he erred widely from the truth. 
 The tumulus which some take for that of /Esyete.s is situated either 
 on this or a neighbourin'!' hill. 
 
 To the right of this eminence a small opening in the hills is disco¬ 
 vered, and on one of the hills surrounding that valley, the Ilium 
 Recens was situated, not very far from the spot now occupied by the 
 village of Tchiblak. Some inscriptions, which have been discovered 
 in the vicinity of that hamlet, have tended to confirm the opinion. The 
 projecting eminence was in all probability the acropolis of the new city. 
 Dr. Chandler has given a long account of Ilium, its privileges under 
 the Roman Emperors, and the dispute which took place, in those times, 
 as to its identity with the capital of Priam. It was plainly shown, that 
 the situation does not resemble that described by Homer, and among 
 other arguments it was urged, that Troy was at a greater distance from 
 the sea than Ilium Recens; for Ulysses observes, that when he was 
 
 • It is worthy of remark, tiiat although Mr. Pope never visited the spot, and his map was entirely 
 constructed on the authority of Homer, it is, notwithstanding, found to be a very tolerable represen¬ 
 tation of the country, as it now appears. 
 
50 
 
 near the city, he was far from the camp ; and Polidamas, when at the 
 Greek camp, remarks the distance from the city*. Now the city of 
 Ilium Kerens, says Strabo, is much too near the sea to justify' such 
 expressions. In the time of that geographer, the sea flowed nearer 
 to Ilium than at present. It was distant only twelve stadia, or one 
 mile and a half, so that it must have occupied the greater portion of 
 the sp ace now converted into land, between the tomb of Ajax and the 
 village of Kount Kovi: a circumstance which would render it impossi¬ 
 ble to be near the ships and far from the walls at the same instant. 
 Strabo thought also that the land had encroached upon the sea to the 
 exlcnt of six stadia since the war of I roy. Another proof is added by 
 Strabo, who observes the absurdity of sending Polites to the tumulus 
 of iEsyetes to watch (lie Greeks, when he could have seen them so 
 much better from the citadel, if New Ilium had been the city of 
 Priam. 
 
 The projecting hill which succeeds the acropolis of New Ilium, and 
 forms the other boundary of the little valley running up to Tehibhik, 
 has near its base some extensive ruins, w Inch are not distinguishable in 
 this view, but which seem to have been the fortifications within which 
 Constantine purposed to have erected his city; for it is not probable 
 that the Pages Iliensium was ever surrounded by a wall, although the 
 distance from New Ilium sufficiently corresponds with the measure¬ 
 ment of Strabo. 
 
 A tumulus also exists m this part of the plain, w hich, from great 
 distance, or want of elevation, is not discernible from the tomb of 
 Antilochus. I have no doubt that it is the monument of Myrinne, 
 for it must have been somewhere in tliaL direction. This tumulus is 
 connected with a rising ground of easy ascent, and is insulated with 
 regard to oilier eminences in the vicinity. The description given by 
 Homer of this tomb is perfectly correspondent with the tumulus which 
 now exists, 'flic mount, according to the poet, was called Batieia, 
 hut the gods stiled it the sepulchre ol the swift Myrinna. It was an 
 elevation in the plain before the city, separated from all oilier hills, 
 and of such easy access and ascent on every side, that part of the 
 
 Oil vs. H. -196. 
 
 Iliad S. 256. 
 

 57 
 
 1 rojan army could be drawn out upon it in battle array, previous to 
 the first engagement of the Iliad 5 . This was one of the monuments 
 of remote antiquity, which existed prior to the mra of the war of 
 Troy, and its origin was even in those days so little understood, that 
 it was known by two different names 6 . 
 
 The little village on the plain is called Kallifatli; it is situated near 
 the banks of the Simois, and the inhabitants think that the city of 
 Priam once decorated the spot now occupied by their huts. In 
 effect, it is highly probable that the Pagus Iliensium, or village of the 
 Ileians, was not more than three miles distant from, and in a direct 
 line beyond, Kallifatli: for Strabo informs us that it was situated 
 thirty stadia, or about three miles and a half, higher up the country 
 than New II ium. 
 
 Above the village of IvallifaLli is seen a beautiful and singular hill, 
 now crowned with the little hamlet of Alclie Kevi. By an examination 
 of the map it may be observed, that it is before the city Troy in the 
 plain, and before the city in the same direction, or nearly so, as the 
 sepulchre of Myrinna, to which a similar situation is assigned by the 
 poet 7 . The formation of this eminence, as well as its peculiar position, 
 detached from the other hills which surround the plain, render it 
 
 , II. ii. 811. 
 
 6 Some authors have asserted, that the names which the gods were supposed to apply to terres¬ 
 trial objects, were merely those given by the more ancient inhabitants of the soil. If such an idea 
 be just, Diodorus informs us, on the authority of Thymcetes, a contemporary of Orpheus, that the 
 Egyptian Bacchus had Lybian women in his retinue, and that one was called Minerva or Myrinna, 
 who had been Queen of the Amazons in Lybia. This Queen, with many of her followers, was slain 
 in the attempt to pass into Thrace, by the king of that country, and the remainder of her army fled 
 toward the river Thermodon, near Colchis, where they were established long before the rei"n of 
 Priam. It is not improbable that this may be the Myrinna on whose tomb the Trojan army was 
 marshalled. The other name, Batieia, was given by those who thought that the tumulus was raised 
 in honour of Batieia, who, as we are informed by Stephanus Byzantinus, was the daughter of Teucer, 
 and wife of Dardanus, who built the city bearing his own name, and Thymbra, which is not very 
 far distant from the mount described. 
 
 7 The learned Bryant, to whose authority almost every opinion must yield, with the exception 
 of such as are founded on absolute examination of the spot, has, in one of his works, pointed out an 
 apparent disagreement between the face of the country and the description of Strabo. That geo¬ 
 grapher observes, that Kallicolone, the beautiful hill, still retained its name in his time, and that it 
 was the real Kallicolone of Homer. It was ten stadia higher up the country than the Pagus Ilien¬ 
 sium, and the Simois ran near it. The mount or hill was about five stadia in circuit. Strabo also 
 
58 
 
 worthy of the name Kallicolone, and it appears astonishing to me, 
 that none of the authors I have consulted on the subject have even 
 suspected that Atche Kevi was seated on the summit of the beautiful 
 lull. Nearer views of it will he found in those plates more imme¬ 
 diately connected with the city, and the reader will have many other 
 opportunities of observing that the Simois flows at its base, so that this 
 mount agrees with the descriptions both of Homer and Strabo 8 . The 
 distance also from New Ilium to Atche Kevi is very agreeable to that 
 assigned by Strabo, who fixes it at forty stadia, or five miles. 
 
 The villages of Kallifatli and Atche Kevi lie in such a position with 
 regard to the tomb of Antilochus, that a line drawn through those 
 points would also pass through the summit of Ida, which appears 
 towering above such of its branches as immediately encircle the plain. 
 If then the mountain can he so plainly discovered from the shore, it 
 was no great stretch of imagination in the poet to represent the most 
 powerful of the gods as looking down from thence on the battles of 
 Troy; nor is this less allowable with regard to the summit near the 
 promontory of Lectos. 
 
 The situation of the city Troy may be discovered by carrying the 
 eye from the summit of Ida toward the right, till the view of the 
 distant mountains becomes lor a short space intercepted by a more 
 lofty point of the nearer hills. This point will he easily distinguished 
 by a few trees on its summit, and immediately below it is the hill 
 on which the city was erected. 'Flic little village and mosque of 
 Bounarbashi, now standing near the site of the Sctean gate, are per¬ 
 ceptible, and above them the houses seem to have risen gradually upon 
 the slope of the hill, where the Acropolis or Pergama is known by 
 two tumuli, which occupy the summit. The Simois, after rising in the 
 heights of Ida, at a considerable distance from the Hellespont, flows 
 
 thought that Troy might be discovered somewhere in this vicinity. Whoever will take the trouble 
 to look at the view, will see that nothing can he more faithful than the account of the geographer, 
 and that the remark of Mr. Bryant, who cites Homer to prove that the hill lay before the city, and 
 not nearer to Ida, only shows that the Pagus was not the Troy of Priam, which Strabo decidedly 
 delivers as his own sentiment; observing that the real Troy lay somewhere in the neighbourhood, 
 an opinion equally agreeable to truth. 
 
 8 II. xx. 151. and xx. 53. 
 
through a vale, extending between the mountain and the hills bound¬ 
 ing the plain of Troy on that side, but on approaching Bounarbashi, 
 the stream turns toward the left, and passes between the Acropolis 
 and the point which overlooks it. After winding through a defile, the 
 river enters the plain at an equal distance from Bounarbashi and 
 Atche Kevi. 
 
 The eye proceeding toward the right from Bounarbashi, is next 
 arrested by a little village bearing the name of Erkissi Kevi, not far 
 from which, upon the eminence to the right, the great tumulus of 
 iEsyetes is seen in a most commanding situation, overlooking the 
 JE gean sea on the one side, with the plain and Hellespont on the other 
 The distant mountain with its serrated top, which is seen beyond the 
 tumulus, is that branch ot Ida which appears near Alexandria Troas, 
 and either that or the succeeding height is probably the summit called 
 Lectos by Homer. From either of them the view of the plain could 
 never be intercepted by the smaller eminences; a circumstance con¬ 
 cerning which, those who contend against the identity of this plain 
 with that of the Homeric Troy, do not seem to have possessed correct 
 information. 
 
 Having now endeavoured to explain such objects as occur in the 
 range ot hills encompassing the plain on the further side, I w ill describe 
 such positions as are nearer to the eye. The village of Jeni Kevi is 
 seen on the high land on the right, and on the left of the same emi¬ 
 nence is a summer-house or ruined wind-mill, which was visible from 
 the sea in the first division of Plate 10. 
 
 In that plate is also seen the mouth of a deep foss, which is in this 
 view concealed behind the nearest point of land, and was evidently 
 intended to drain the great marsh in the centre of the picture. That 
 plan does not appear to have succeeded, for a canal, carrying of! the 
 water of the Scamander much nearer to its source, may be traced at the 
 base of the hill, on which stands the tumulus of iEsyetes. The 
 Scamander rises at the foot of the hill of Bounarbashi, and after a 
 variety of windings through the plain, becomes visible near Erkissi 
 Kevi, where a cut. has been formed by art to carry oft’ the water by 
 
GO 
 
 ii quicker passage. I he mouth of Lhe canal is concealed bv lhe hill 
 of deni Kevi, but lhe direction of it is seen over the tops of a lon°- 
 line of willows or tamarisks running from Erkissi toward the nearest 
 sea. 
 
 Notwithstanding the many attempts which have been made to free 
 the plain from the inundations of the river, the Scamander still con¬ 
 tinues to pay a scanty tribute to the Simois. By looking below the 
 village of Erkissi, the original bed of that river may be traced, wander¬ 
 ing over the plain in a thousand directions, from the junction of the 
 canal lill it is concealed behind a brown knowl, which projects from 
 c hill of Jeni Kevi into the marsh near the tomb of Antilochus. At 
 extremity of this knowl, proceeding toward the left, the Scamander 
 reappears, forming, as it passes, the marsh, after which it is lost 
 behind a second brown hill on the left, which 1 have called Throsmos 
 m the description of the eighteenth plate, and near this unites with 
 the Simois. It has been before observed that lhe canal which com¬ 
 mences near Erkissi Kevi was known to Pliny, who mentions it as a 
 navigable stream, although he afterwards describes the outlet of the 
 Simois and Xanthus united. 
 
 1 lie course of the Simois has been described from its source to the 
 vicinity of Atche Kevi, a little to the right of which village the water 
 first appears in this view. A second portion of it is seen near Kalli- 
 fatli. and a third nearer the observer than that hamlet; after which its 
 winding current is almost unseen, till it is discovered flowing below 
 lhe projecting boundary of the vale of Thymbra, in the centre of the 
 plate. 
 
 The Scamander and Simois, united a little beyond the Throsmos, 
 are concealed from sight by the hill of Jeni Chehr from the confluence 
 to their junction with the* Hellespont. 
 
 1 he little ruin on the left, in the foreground, is merely that of a 
 miserable hovel, which has once been dedicated to some of the Greek 
 saints. It is perhaps useless to add, that it the Greeks were encamped 
 on the green plain, near the Hellespont, the Trojans could have taken 
 

 61 
 
 no better position to prevent their escape, than that in which their 
 left wing occupied the heights from Throsmos to the sea, by Jeni 
 Chehr or the tomb of Antilochus, while the Phrygian cavalry extended 
 over the plain on the right, toward the elevations which surround the 
 vale of Thymbra. The sight of the village of Koum Kale, of the 
 mouth of the rivers, and the tumuli of Achilles and Patroclus, is 
 intercepted by the hill of Jeni Chehr on the left. 
 
 > 
 
 1 
 
 A 
 
 v| 
 
 A 
 
 v 
 
 A 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 A 
 
 I 
 
PLATE XX. 
 
 1 he view exhibited in the former Plate was taken from the summit of 
 a tumulus which is generally, though without any apparent reason, 
 known by the name of Antilochus. It is acknowledged that after the 
 death of Patroclus, the friendship between Antilochus and Achilles 
 became more intimate, so that the Greeks wishing to perform every 
 right which they thought might he grateful to the manes of their 
 hero, placed the ashes ol Patroclus with those of Achilles in a common 
 urn, while those of Antilochus, who had been slain by Memnon', were 
 deposited in a separate vase, and placed by the side of the other, 
 after which a common tumulus was erected. 
 
 At the same time it is certain that a tumulus or cenotaph was often 
 left as a memorial of illustrious persons, and we are assured by 
 Pausanias, that Memnon himself, who slew Antilochus, was honoured 
 after death by a cenotaph in the Troad, near the banks of the Esopus. 
 Tliis tumulus of Anlilochus seems to be of that description, but as I 
 had neither instruments nor permission to excavate, I could not decide 
 whether the soil or stone of which it consists be natural or artificial. 
 The formation of the monument however is indisputably the work of 
 
 1 Odyss. iv. 187- 
 
63 
 
 art, and there is every probability that it may really be the cenotaph 
 of Antilochus. 
 
 The testimony of several ancient authors might be added to prove, 
 that theie existed in the Troad the tumuli of other heroes, as well as 
 of Achilles, Patroclus, and Ajax, who, like them, had fallen in the war 
 of Troy; but it is to he lamented that they are not particularized by 
 name. The tumulus is seated on a high cliff near the sea, beyond 
 which the island of Imbros is seen, overtopped by the mountains of 
 bamothrace. I have remarked that Lemnos is rarely or never seen 
 from this coast; but Athos, now called Agios Oros, or the Holy 
 Mountain, from the number of monasteries which decorate its sides, 
 is often distinguishable, though at a far greater distance. Its pointed 
 summit, called the Aero Athos, appears shooting into the air with a 
 bolder outline than that of any of the Alps. The vapour arising 
 from the sea concealed the base of the mountain while I was em- 
 ployed on the sketch, which is a faithful representation of the objects 
 as they actually appeared 2 . 
 
 1 It gave me great pleasure on showing my port folio to M. Le Chevalier, to hear him express 
 his satisfaction on seeing this testimony of the possibility of discovering Athos from the Asiatic 
 coast, a circumstance, the truth of which he assured me had been more disputed than any thing in 
 his work. 
 
64 
 
 PLATE XXI. 
 
 YY e have the authority of Homer for the sepulture of Achilles on 
 the Phrygian shore. In the Odyssey 1 Agamemnon relates to the 
 shade of that hero an account of the ceremonies which were per¬ 
 formed at liis funeral. Agamemnon says on that occasion, C( Fallen 
 at Ilium, far from Argos, many Trojan and Grecian chiefs perished in 
 the contest for your body, which was disfigured with dust. The 
 Greeks fought during the whole day, in the course of which a tem¬ 
 pest took place, but they succeeding, bore oft the corpse to the fleet. 
 There they washed it with warm water, anointed the body, and 
 placed it upon a bier. Thetis came with her train of sea nymphs, 
 producing so dreadful a sound upon the waves, that the affrighted 
 Greeks would have fled, had not Nestor interposed. The nymphs 
 covered the body with robes, and the Nine Muses mourned in choir. 
 This lasted seventeen days. On the eighteenth they burned the 
 corpse, and slew fat sheep and horned oxen around. The flames 
 were fed with honey and oil. The Greek cavalry and infantry encom¬ 
 passed the pile, clashing their shields. The lire being extinguished in 
 the morning, the bones were selected, washed with unguents and 
 wine, and placed in a golden vase given by Thetis. In the same 
 urn are the ashes of Achilles and Patroclus, but those of Antilochus 
 had a separate one. Around both urns a noble tomb was raised on a 
 
 Book xxiv. 
 
high promontory shooting far into the broad Hellespont, that all who 
 live, or hereafter shall live, may view thy monument even from the 
 distant waves.” 
 
 Wc have in this passage so circumstantial an account of the funeral 
 of Achilles, that there cannot exist a doubt that the tomb of that hero 
 was in the very near neighbourhood of the tumulus represented in 
 this view. This being once determined, no further proof is required, 
 unless it could be shown, that the monument is the work of a later 
 period. The first account we have in history of this country after the 
 age of Homer, mentions a fort called Achillasum, on or near the 
 sepulchre of that hero. It was a station held by the Lesbians, for the 
 purpose of annoying the Athenians, who had occupied Sigaeum by 
 force of arms. In succeeding ages the testimonies are innumerable of 
 the existence of this sepulchre. 
 
 Apollonius pretended to have conversed with the shade of Achilles 
 upon the tumulus, and to have asked him many curious questions, 
 while Tertullian taxes the greatest of heathen heroes with effeminacy 
 in dress, from the circumstance of ear-rings being found on the statue 
 in the temple at the Achillmum. The temple was circular, like that 
 upon the tomb of Ajax, and some large stones, which appear to have 
 been foundations, yet remain on the summit of the tumulus. 
 
 The succeeding view, which was taken from this tomb, will give 
 some idea of the distance between the tumuli, as they are generally 
 called, of Achilles and Patroclus. Without permission to excavate, 
 it is impossible to decide which of the two is the real tumulus of 
 Achilles, for Patroclus might have been honoured by a separate ceno¬ 
 taph, though his ashes were afterwards placed with those of his 
 friend. 
 
 A reason might be given in support of the opinion, that the smaller 
 tumulus, generally bearing the name of Patroclus, was absolutely 
 the tomb of that hero, for the greater monument forming the subject 
 of Plate 27 , is so attached to the extremity of the hill, that it would 
 have been exceedingly difficult for the chariot of Achilles to have 
 
 S 
 
66 
 
 encircled if, dragging behind the body of HectorAt the same time 
 il is true, that tlie chariots of early times must have been capable of 
 passing over very uneven ground, nor would the difficulty of conduct¬ 
 ing the car with safety render the attempt inconsistent with the 
 character of Achilles. We find also that the Myrmidons, with their 
 leader, went thrice round the pile with their chariots, the number of 
 which still increases the difficulty, though not in such a degree as to 
 render the execution impossible 0 . We are informed by Homer, that 
 the tomb of Patroclus was near the sea, for the wood cutters had 
 orders to place their burthens near the shore, where Achilles had 
 designed a great monument for himself and his friend 1 . The pyre 
 was one hundred feet in diameter ', although Achilles had commanded 
 that it should be a tumulus of moderate size till himself should be 
 dead, when it should be made both lofty and magnificent 0 . 
 
 1 he tumulus of Patroclus was formed by lay mg circular foundations 
 round the pyre, on which light earth was heaped 7 . It is not impossi¬ 
 ble that the smaller tumulus may have been that originally constructed 
 for Patroclus, and the greater, that which was afterwards constructed 
 over the ashes of tlie three heroes, according to the common opinion 
 of travellers; yol it is easy to account in another wav for the appear¬ 
 ance of two tumuli so near together. Caracalla, who like other princes 
 had the folly to attempt an imitation of Achilles, is supposed to have 
 poisoned Ins favourite Festus, merely for the purpose of conferring’on 
 him the same honours as Achilles had bestowed on Patroclus. It is 
 however certain, that Festus died just at the convenient time for the 
 display of the imperial magnificence, during a journey 7 through this 
 country, and the laughter of the spectators at the sight of the bald 
 emperor, who endeavoured to find a lock of hair on his head which 
 might he consecrated to his friend, after the example of Achilles, has 
 been often cited from the uncommon absurdity of the circumstance. 
 That emperor must have erected a tumulus, hut it admits of a doubt, 
 whether it is one of these near Jeni Chehr, or that called lieliik Tope 
 or the tomb of Peneleus. On the right of the tumulus of Achilles 
 
 II. xxiv. 16. II. xxiii. 13. * II. xxiii. 125. 
 
 5 II. xxiii. 164. 6 II. xxiii. 245. 7 II. xxiii. 255. 
 

 
 67 
 
 is a small convent of Turkish dervises, and a few large stones, lying 
 nearly in a circle, are visible to a person on the summit 8 . 
 
 ' A Jew acting as Consul of the French nation at the Dardanelles, was ordered by the 
 ambassador ChoiseuI Gouffier to make excavations in the greater of these tumuli; but it is not easy 
 to discover whether he ever commenced the operation, as no appearance now remains of any such 
 research, nor is there any trace left of human labour, except a small hollow among the circular 
 foundations at the summit. The Jew is said to have sent a small piece of metallic substance, about 
 the size of the hilt of a sword, to Constant inople, for the inspection of the ambassador. The figure 
 of a man whose feet rested on the backs of two small horses was discovered, and the fragments of 
 human legs on their sides showed that there had been originally a rider upon each The head 
 of the principal figure was supported by two sphinxes. The same Jew sent the fragments of 
 two vases of the most ancient Greek pottery, which, he said, were found in the tumulus. It is to 
 be observed, that the Jew could not have known that the ashes of tile three heroes were placed in 
 two urns, and so far there is an appearance of credibility in his discoveries, particularly as a golden 
 vase would have been so tempting an article, that it is not impossible that of earthen ware might 
 have been substituted as soon as the funeral ceremonies were performed ; a circumstance which the 
 poet would always avoid mentioning. Vases have also been found containing smaller urns, and 
 supposing that such were used at the time of the Trojan war, the number of centuries that’ have 
 elapsed might well account for the complete destruction of any metallic substance ; added to which, 
 an urn called golden by the poet might have consisted of gilded copper or iron, for gold was not 
 plentiful in Greece till her commerce became more extended. Some have supposed that the figure 
 mentioned above might have been one of the handles of the golden urn; but it was so mutilated 
 and decayed that it required all the ingenuity of all the French in Constantinople to make any thing 
 intelligible from the fragments. The authenticity of these productions was even at the time much 
 disputed, and some persons went so far as to affirm that the antiquities were manufactured in Paris. 
 It may be added, that a person who began to excavate in the tumulus of Achilles, near the summit, 
 where are now the only traces, would not find the ashes of the hero, according to Homer, till he had 
 cleared away the earth nearly to the natural level of the soil; and that if any urn was found near 
 the top, it must have been placed there in aftertimes. This, however, might have been the ease 
 without disturbing the ashes of the original possessor. To my own enquiries I have never procured 
 any satisfactory account of these relics, even from those who were concerned in the production of 
 them to the world ; and when I have requested information from French gentlemen of character, 
 who knew the truth, 1 have always found them impenetrably silent. 
 
68 
 
 PLATE XXII. 
 
 This view is taken from llie summit of the tumulus of Achilles, and 
 exhibits the lower portion of the plain bordering on the Hellespont. 
 On the right, the tumulus of Patroclus is seen, and beyond it the vale 
 of Thyinbra and the village of Koum Kevi, above which is the hill of 
 Tchiblak and situation of Ilium Recens. Beyond the tumulus of Pa¬ 
 troclus, and toward its base, I he united streams are discernible flow¬ 
 ing between banks clothed with trees. In the centre of the view the 
 tumulus of Ajax is perceived on the further side of the plain, and on 
 the coast of the Hellespont. The tomb may be found by observing 
 two clumps of poplars not far from the foreground, between which, 
 and almost on a level with their tops, the little mount is seen. The long 
 projections of the shore, which are seen below the tumulus of Ajax, are 
 those which now occupy portions of the Greek haven. (See dissertation 
 on Plate 15.) The camp appears to have overspread the shore, from 
 the tumuli on this side of the plain to the tomb of Ajax on the other. 
 The village of Koum Kale is distinguished bv its three mosques, and 
 the towers of the castle projecting into the sea. The mouth of the 
 Simois is seen near and above the houses of that place. The marsh, 
 extending from the castle to the tomb of Achilles, has no connection 
 w ith the river. Beyond the Hellespont the Thracian Chersonesus 
 appears crowned with the tumulus of Protesilaus. On that coast also 
 is seen the castle of Europe, the work of the celebrated Baron DeTott. 
 
 Over the central mosque of Koum Kale is seen the fortress on the 
 Asiatic side of the Dardanelles, erected on a narrow part of the 
 Hellespont, between the ancient Dardanus and Abydos. 
 
 
PLATE XXIII. 
 
 Phis view, which was taken higher lip in the plain, and almost in its 
 centre, where the road from Kallifatli to Koum Ivevi approaches the 
 banks of the Simois, is merely intended to give some idea of those 
 gentle elevations, which form the boundary of the plain on the west. 
 The tumulus of iEsyetes appears on the left in a conspicuous situa¬ 
 tion, and the village of Erkissi Kevi is visible toward the centre, 
 with its mosque, and a summer residence of the most celebrated of 
 the Turkish admirals, the late Hassan Pasha. The stile of building is 
 similar to that of the Aga’s house at Bounarbashi. The Simois is 
 seen in the foreground, flowing between banks formed of sand, and 
 producing little shrubs. The Scamander flows still nearer to Erkissi 
 Kevi and winds round the base of the hill on which that village is 
 situated. It is probable that the small pyramidal elevation, seen a 
 little to the right of the spot where the hill of Erkissi joins the plain, 
 is the tumulus called Behik Tepe, for it is through that opening be¬ 
 tween the hills, that the new canal from the Scamander is conducted 
 to the sea. 
 
70 
 
 PLATE XXIV. 
 
 I he river Simois lias been already described as descending from 
 mount Ida, and having almost encircled the Acropolis of Troy, enter¬ 
 ing the plain. Above the vdlage of Kallifatli, is a ford now frequented 
 by the natives, which is represented in this view. Over the heads of 
 the figures in the nearest cart may be distinguished, on the top of 
 the hill, the two tumuli of the Pergama, and the glen, through which 
 the Simois rolls, is on the left of these monuments. The range of 
 hills onthelelt are spotted with underwood, and form a fine boundary 
 to the plain. 1 he houses and mosque which compose the village of 
 Bounarbashi are seen, and will hereafter be shewn to stand near the 
 spot once occupied by the Scaean gate, above which the city rose 
 to the Acropolis. On the right, at the base of the hill of Bounar¬ 
 bashi, a clump of trees marks the warm sources of the Scamander, 
 while a few poplars beyond them point out the cold springs of that 
 river. On the nearest hill, exactly above the trees which mark the 
 sources, may be perceived a tumulus, which is found to be of con¬ 
 siderable magnitude on a nearer approach. 
 
 Strabo informs us, that Cebrenia, a district in Phrygia Minor, 
 once belonged to the Trojans, and that in his time llie Scamander 
 

 
 71 
 
 formed ihe boundary between Skepsis and that province. Now the 
 city of Skepsis, afterwards called Palm Skepsis, and now tlie village 
 of Eskiptschu, became, after the destruction of the Homeric Troy, 
 the metropolis of that part of the country. There is authority for 
 believing that /Eneas, after becoming accessary to the extinction of 
 the family of Priam, and the plunder of Troy, received from the 
 Greeks the sovereignty of the territory of Skepsis, which became the 
 seat of his government, and was subjected to his descendants for 
 many generations. Homer may be brought in proof of this, who, 
 during the contest of /Eneas with Achilles, observes by the mouth 
 of one of the deities, that /Eneas and his family shall reign in Troy 
 in succeeding ages. It is hence highly probable that the site of the 
 ruined I roy belonged to the Skepsians, whose territory must have 
 terminated somewhere on or near the plain, and perhaps was con¬ 
 fined in this part to the Ilcian plain, for that on the banks of Simois 
 belonged to Ilium Immune, while the Scamandrian formed a por¬ 
 tion of Cebrenia in the time of Strabo. That geographer says, 
 Cebrenia belonged to Troy, in the time of Priam ; for the tombs of 
 Paris and CEnone were shewn there 1 ; and Aristotle says, on the 
 authority of a more ancient writer, that the tomb of Paris is on the 
 summit of the hills; so that having found Cebrenia divided from 
 Skepsis by the Scamander, and a tumulus near the city Troy on the 
 summit of the hills, it is not improbable that this may be the tomb 
 of the seducer of Helen. 
 
 The city must have made a noble appearance, from the present ford 
 of the Simois covering the hill behind Bounarbashi, and crowned by 
 the towers of the citadel. The river is in this part at least one hun¬ 
 dred yards in breadth, and flowed at the time I was there with a very 
 strong current, so as to render the passage difficult. The depth was 
 in general about two feet and a half; but in some places considerably 
 greater. The carts of the country are here seen, which have been 
 termed by some writers Sigaean carts, from the number employed at 
 the village of Jeni Chehr. They certainly resemble in shape the 
 chariots of the ancient heroes, though the w heels are made of heavy 
 masses of wood, and the body of the vehicle is formed merely of 
 wicker-work. 
 
 1 CEnone was the lawful wife of Paris, and is said to have died of grief when he was slain, 
 notwithstanding his infidelities. 
 
72 
 
 PLATE XXV. 
 
 This view, which was taken from the spot where the road from 
 Bounarbashi to Kallifatli first touches upon .the banks of the Simois, 
 is so similar to that represented in Plate 24, that it would not have 
 been desirable to introduce it, had not a more distinct view of the 
 city Troy been obtained. T will venture from this station to point 
 out some of the particular objects connected with the city, reserving 
 the reasons which render such disposition of them probable till a 
 future opportunity, when they will be more clearly illustrated. It is 
 supposed that the wall defending the city on the side of the plain, 
 ran nearly in the line now marked by the hedge immediately below 
 Bounarbashi. If the observer will carry his eye toward the right, 
 from the mosque, along the same line of hill, il will be perceived 
 that there are two different descents between the village and the trees 
 which surround the Scamandrian springs. 
 
 On the top of the higher, the wall of the city may have passed, 
 while the lower seems to be the Erineos, or lull of the wild fig-tree, 
 whence the wall was most assailable by an enemy. The eminence 
 seen behind, and near the Erineos, appears to have formed part of 
 the city, and the Scaean gate might have been placed between that 
 
73 
 
 knowl and the present village of Bounarbashi, in which case an 
 approaching enemy might he effectually assailed from the walls, 
 which stood on each side, forming an angle, in which the gate was 
 erected. The tumulus on the hill above the springs is better seen in 
 this than in the former view. 
 
74 
 
 PLATE XXVI. 
 
 Plate 26 exhibits the present appearance of the warm springs of Sca- 
 mander, distant about five hundred yards from the Aga’s house at 
 Bounarbashi, which is seen on the eminence to the left, inclosed by 
 a wall, and the various buildings necessary for the purposes of 
 husbandry. The lull 111 the centre, and which forms part of the 
 ground once occupied by the city, is so much elevated as to intercept 
 the view of the tumuli of the Acropolis, which arc exactly behind it, so 
 that from the tops of the willows they might be seen. Below this 
 hill is seen a knowl distinguishable by a lighter tint, projecting toward 
 the fountain, and the Scaean gate seems to have stood in a recess 
 behind I he third willow 011 the left, flanked by that knowl and the 
 mount of Bounarbashi. 1 he Enneos is not discoverable in this view, 
 being a little beyond the border of the picture to the left. The 
 water of the spring is used by the inhabitants of Bounarbashi for 
 domestic purposes, consequently they have made roads from all parts 
 of the village to this point, and the overflow of the water occasioning 
 a swamp, the people have paved lhe way for a short distance toward 
 the village. 
 
 fountain is surrounded by fragments of white marble, some of 
 which appear to have been connected with other blocks by iron 
 cramps, the holes for the insertion of which are still visible. I hese 
 are regularly disposed in a quadrangular form, and are 011 two sides 
 bounded by a couple of square granite columns, one of which seems 
 to have been broken in its fall. It is not impossible that such columns 
 may have once supported some kind of covering to the fountain, 
 particularly as it was much frequented, for the purpose of washing, 
 by the Trojan women 1 . 
 
 1 Iliad xxii. 155, &c. 
 
75 
 
 The fount was also distinguished by having a marble cistern, and 
 the fragments of ancient masonry still existing, seem peculiar to these 
 sources. The women of Bounarbashi yet frequent the spring, as 
 their predecessors, the Trojan virgins, did before the invasion by the 
 Greeks. The convenience afforded by the blocks of marble and 
 granite to the women of the country, who always heat their linen 
 on stones or boards during the time they are washing, added to the 
 sensible warmth of the water, has in all probability continued the 
 practice of resorting to this spring, in preference to any other. The 
 Count de Choiseul Goufher was informed by the Aga ol Bounarbashi, 
 that the water threw up a very perceptible steam in the winter; and 
 later experiments, made with the thermometer, prove beyond doubt 
 that this is a warm source. 
 
 In the spring of the year 1801 , Mr. Clarke and Mr. Cripps, of 
 Jesus College, in Cambridge, ascertained with a thermometer, to 
 which was affixed the scale of Celsius, the exact temperature of the 
 water. It is to the liberality with which these gentlemen communicate 
 the result of their observations that I am indebted for a correct 
 statement of the fact. The mercury stood at sixteen degrees and a 
 quarter above the freezing point, during the coldest weather of that 
 year-'. The experiment has since been repeated at different hours, and 
 in the depth of winter, yet no alteration has been observed. 
 
 It being perfectly established that this is a warm spring, it will be 
 easily admitted, that the Scasan gate cannot he far distant from it; for 
 Priam and Hecuba, who were near that entrance, saw the body of 
 Hector attached to the chariot of Achilles; and Hector in his dying 
 speech, after his combat with that hero near the springs, threatens 
 him with a similar fate, “ to fall by the hands of Paris and Phoebus 
 before the Scsean gate 3 .” At the distance of a few yards toward the 
 right of the picture, a second small source is concealed behind the 
 hedge, which is surrounded by a low wall of coarse modern workman¬ 
 ship, and is evidently nothing more than a small branch of the greater 
 spring. 
 
 2 Seventeen degrees and three-quarters of Celsius equal sixty-four degrees on the scale of 
 Fahrenheit. 
 
 5 II. xxii. 360. 
 
76 
 
 PLATE XXVII. 
 
 About one hundred and seventy yards distant from the warm springs 
 of the Scamander, toward the west, the cold sources are found, throw¬ 
 ing out a considerable quantity of water from many openings in the 
 rock. It has been discovered by the help of a thermometer, which 
 was thrust into the fissure as far as the arm would permit it to go, that 
 this spring is equally warm with the former. The pool, however, which 
 receives the water, being of so considerable a size as to suffer it imme¬ 
 diately to acquire the temperature of the atmosphere, it must undoubt¬ 
 edly have appeared cold before the invention of an instrument for 
 ascertaining the real degree of heat. It would therefore have been 
 thought cold in the days of Homer, and the poet is not incorrect, who 
 describes places and scenes as they appear to the generality of mankind. 
 Several other sources contribute to swell this division of the stream of 
 Scamander, before its junction with the rivulet which proceeds from 
 the warm springs. The Turks say, these are forty in number, and give 
 the place a name expressive of the circumstance. The source repre¬ 
 sented in this view is on the right, near the observer, and has, on its 
 first appearance above ground, a rock in front, which may have been 
 cut into its present shape in ancient times. The quantity of water 
 thrown out by the springs, which are apparently cold, is greater, and 
 ejected with more violence than that of the warmer source. Each how¬ 
 ever is sufficient to form a rapid brook, and after running for about two 
 hundred yards on each side of some pretty gardens, surrounded with 
 high poplars, they unite, and form a clear, perennial, and copious 
 river. The abundance of water occasions a marsh, as soon as the 
 flood arrives at the flat part of the plain; and near that marsh, Ulysses 
 informs us in the Odyssey, that he had passed the night before the 
 w alls of Troy. The ancients observed, that the tvaters of Xanthus 
 had the property of imparting a yellow tint to wool, a circumstance 
 probably arising from their chalybeate nature. 
 

 
 
 
77 
 
 J he willows which overhang the warm spring are visible on the 
 left, and above them is the village of Bounarbashi. The tumuli of the 
 Acropolis are also seen. The hollow on the right seems to have 
 bounded the city on the western side. The foot path, which passes 
 by the spring on the right, leads from Bounarbashi to Erkissi Kevi. 
 
 X 
 
PLATE XXVIII. 
 
 This view is taken from a hill on the west of Bounarbashi, and will 
 give an idea of the whole extent of the hill on which the city was 
 erected. The mount distinguished by trees near the centre of the 
 view is beyond the Simois, as is the whole of the distant country on 
 the left of the village. 
 
 To the left, and in the back ground, is seen the little village of 
 Atche Kevi, which I take to be situated on the Kallicolone, or beauti¬ 
 ful hill. 
 
 The summit on the right crowned with two tumuli, is that of the 
 Acropolis or Pergama, and behind it is a steep precipice washed by 
 the Simois at its base. Below the tumuli, and nearer the observer, 
 on the right and left are two knowls, between which Choiseul 
 Gouffier thought the Scsean gate might have stood; but I think such 
 a disposition would not allow of sufficient space for the city. The 
 Count thought that the hill now occupied by the house of the Aga 
 was the Erineos of Homer, which, if his first supposition was correct, 
 might possibly have been the case; but I am inclined to think from 
 many circumstances, that the hill on the left, now covered with the 
 monuments of the Turks, is the real Erineos. Below that eminence 
 are the willows which overhang the warm springs, and the poplars on 
 the left are not far from the cold sources of Scamander. 
 
 On the right a causey is seen, which forms part of the road to 
 C hicle and Alexandria Troas. A narrow flat, similar in extent to the 
 ploughed field in the foreground, separates the hill of Bounarbashi 
 from the neighbouring; heights on the western side, while the eastern 
 and southern boundaries consist of rugged precipices and almost 
 inaccessible rocks. 
 

 
 
 PLATE XXIX. 
 
 1 his view was taken from a point very near to that whence the 
 former was designed, and is intended principally to show the situation 
 of the springs, the Erineos, the lower part of the city, and the Sctean 
 gate. The warm sources of the Scamander are marked hy the clump 
 of willows toward the left, while the cold are not represented, though 
 in the same direction, being somewhat beyond the limits of the 
 picture. The warm springs may serve as a guide to the other objects, 
 if attention be paid to the many documents which the poet has left 
 on the subject. It has already been observed that, the springs were 
 not far from the Scaean gate, and by examining the account of the 
 flight of Hector from Achilles, under the wall of Troy, and at the 
 same time noting the disposition of intermediate objects, the Sctean 
 gate must be discovered. Hector having fled before Achilles, at 
 length resolved to await his arrival, and accordingly placed himself 
 before the Sctean gate 1 , resting his shield against a projecting tower 2 . 
 On the approach of Achilles he ran toward the springs, passing in 
 his way the watch tower, the Erineos, or hill of the wild fig-tree, and 
 the chariot road. 
 
 The springs were either very near or close to this chariot road, 
 which must have been that leading to the port, to Thymbra, and 
 Dardanos. The chariot road also was crossed by the heroes near the 
 city, which is evident from the course of Hector being always near 
 the wall 3 . Above the willows which overhang the warm source of 
 Scamander, a rising mount will be perceived, now covered with the 
 tombstones of the Turks of Bounarbashi, and this I presume to be 
 the Erineos. On the brow of the hill below the Aga’s house, running- 
 between the mosque and the observer, was in all probability the 
 
 1 II. xxii. 5. ' II. xxii. 97- 'zrvpya em -ro-p8%ovT i. 3 II. xxii. 
 
80 
 
 wall of the city, and just below the nearest house m Bounarbashi was 
 the projecting tower against which Hector was leaning, and which 
 was near, and before, the Scaean gate 4 . 
 
 I he description of Homer corresponding perfectly with the present 
 disposition of the ground, the Scaean gate must have been in the angle 
 formed by the dark projection of the hill near the foreground, with 
 the knowl of Bounarbashi, the precise spot being concealed by the 
 height of the nearer elevation. 
 
 If this disposition of the principal objects lie just, the road leading 
 from the Scaean gate toward the Hellespont must have passed along 
 the ploughed fields in the centre of the view, and have separated the 
 hot springs from the Erineos in its course. It is not improbable that 
 a second road branched off toward Thymbra, passing between the 
 Erineos and Bounarbashi, but we have no authority for it. If however 
 two roads united here, the beech tree might have stood near their 
 junction, and perhaps grew not far from the little triangular patch of 
 grass \isible in ihis view. If otherwise, it might have stood in any 
 part of the ploughed field in the centre, and indeed such a position is 
 more probable, as it is not mentioned in the flight of Hector, and is 
 constantly described as close to the Scaean irate 5 . Bv referring- to the 
 map it will be seen, that the idea of the gate having been called Scsean 
 in allusion to its situation on the left of the city, is perfectly reconci¬ 
 lable to this spot, which is placed as much as possible on the left of 
 the city. I he gate seems to have been surmounted with a tower, for 
 Priam, Panthus, 1 hymnetes, Antenor, and others, were found sitting 
 upon the Scaean gate, when Helen came to see the light between 
 Paris and Menelaus 6 , and they are said to be on a tower only four 
 lines after. The names Scaean and Dardan seem to have been applied 
 promiscuously to this entrance 7 . 
 
 Near the Scaean gate, and on the right hand of a person entering 
 the plain, was a great and lofty tower, called the great tower of Ilion 8 , 
 seemingly constructed in so superior a manner, on account of the 
 
 4 11. xxii. 5. and xxii. 97- 5 11. xi. 170. 6 I), iii. 149. 
 
 7 II. xxii. 194. ” 11. vi. 373. •zvvpyov jisyccv IA/B. 6386. 
 
81 
 
 natural, weakness of llie situation, which possessed scarcely any 
 advantage in point of elevation, and was endangered by the near 
 neighbourhood of the Erineos. 
 
 It will he evident at first sight, that the ground between the nearest 
 house in Bouuarbashi and the observer, affords hut little defence to a 
 fortification, the slope being too gradual to he of material advantage, 
 while the elevation of the furbish burying-ground or Erineos would 
 contribute to render strong towers absolutely necessary in that part 
 of the wall. In confirmation of this idea, Andromache observed to 
 Hector, that some adverse deity had provoked the Greeks to attack 
 the city in the weakest part, by the Erineos, where the ascent was 
 easy, and consequently the walls less difficult to scale”. This tower 
 was in the wall, and made a part of it' 0 , and was at a somewhat 
 greater distance from the Pergama than was the Scaean gate, for 
 Hector having entered at that point, and visited the Acropolis, where 
 he had heard that Andromache was at the great tower of Ilion, 
 retraced his way through the whole extent of the city to find her, and 
 met her returning home when lie arrived at the gate". 
 
 On this, which seems to have been sometimes stiled the projecting, 
 and the sacred tower, Priam stood when he discovered Achilles 
 approaching the city", on which occasion he descended from it, and 
 went to the keeper of the gate, giving orders that it should be set 
 wide open till the flying Trojans were safe within the wall 13 . Having 
 performed this task, the king returned to the tower; for it was from 
 such a situation that he endeavoured to dissuade Hector from the 
 combat; and Andromache hearing lamentations from the tower, ran 
 to that building, and the wall, where she found Hecuba and the other 
 Trojans in despair. It may he added that Priam and his queen en¬ 
 deavoured to persuade Hector to make a timely retreat, while he was 
 leaning against the projecting tower", consequently he must have 
 been very near them, and the wall and tower must have advanced 
 forwards from the Scman gate, for Hector was before it. Again, if 
 the projecting tower and the great tower of Ilion were not the same, 
 
 8 II. vi. 433. 
 
 “ II. xxi. 526. 
 
 10 II. vi. 388. zg-pog TU%og. 
 13 II. xxi. 530. 
 
 11 II. vi. 394, &c. 
 14 II. xxii. 97- 
 
same 
 
 description is given of 
 
 05) 
 
 OJ 
 
 they were very close together, for the 
 the relative situation of each. 
 
 The watch tower is the first object passed by Hector in his flight 
 toward the springs 1 ’, and it must have been either attached to the 
 great tower, or very near the Erineos, unless it he supposed to have 
 stood on one side of the way to the gate, as the tower of Ilion did on 
 the other. That it was near the Erineos, however, is more probable, 
 for it is mentioned with that hill, as the beech tree is with the Scsean 
 gate. 
 
 The Erineos, or hill of the wild fig-tree, next occurs. This spot 
 has long been sought by the writers upon the topography of Troy, 
 and some have represented the springs of Scamander at a much 
 greater distance from Bounarbashi than they really are, for the sake 
 of bringing in the hill to the w est of the village under the name of 
 Erineos. The true characteristics of Erineos are, that it was near the 
 ScEean gate, for the springs were near that entrance, yet the Erineos 
 was passed in the w ay to them. The Erineos was also in the direct 
 road from the tomb of Ilus and the fords of Xanthus to the ScEean 
 gate, for some of the Trojans being routed, in l lie battle of the 
 eleventh book, fled before Agamemnon, through the middle of the 
 plain, past the Erineos, halting when they had reached the beech tree 
 and the Scaean gate. Homer adds, that the fugitives were very anxious 
 to reach the city 16 , consequently they took the nearest way, and Eri¬ 
 neos must he in the direct line between the fords of Xanthus and the 
 Scaean gate. It was also not distant, and in the plain, as some have 
 supposed it, lint close to the city, so that the wall w'as thrice in dan¬ 
 ger of being scaled from it. It was ornamented by a wild fig-tree, 
 and was an eminence, for the wind is said to beat upon it 17 . In all 
 these respects, no spot could correspond better with the description, 
 than the Turkish burial ground does with the Erineos of Homer, as 
 may he seen in the general map. The chariot-road succeeded the 
 Erineos in the flight of Hector. Now the chariot road led from the 
 gate toward the sea and camp of the Greeks, at least we read of no 
 other in the Iliad; and the proof is that Hector meets in his way some 
 
 15 II. xxii. 145. 
 
 It. xi. 16s. 
 
 II. xxii. 145. 
 
a 
 
 
 83 
 
 ol the Greek troops who came from the camp, and who are commanded 
 by Achilles not to discharge their weapons at him. Having passed 
 the road, became to the springs. Now had not the Erineos, the pro¬ 
 jecting tower, and the great tower of Ilion been on the right of the 
 road, coming from Iroy, the chariot road would not have been in the 
 way of a person running toward the springs, and without such a dis¬ 
 position the track of Hector would he incomprehensible. Achilles 
 approached from the banks of Scamander on the left of the road from 
 Troy, whither he had been led by Apollo under the disguise of 
 Agenor 1 ’. Hector was leaning against a tower on the right of the 
 road, and suffered Achilles to get nearer the Scaean gate than himself, 
 before his courage forsook him, and had not this been the case, the 
 way to security in the city must always have been open to the Trojan 
 chief. Achilles in this pursuit having once placed himself nearer the 
 wall than his opponent, had a smaller circle to move in, and conse¬ 
 quently easily prevented the approach of Hector to the walls, which 
 he attempted three times, in hopes that his friends would be able to 
 pierce Achilles with missile weapons from the battlements. It is 
 necessary to observe, that according to the poet, Hector did not turn 
 till he had passed the springs the first time, when directing his course 
 toward the wall he was prevented by Achilles, who obliged him to 
 retrace his steps. On the approach of Hector to the walls in the 
 second circuit, Achilles intercepted him again. Being thus compelled 
 to pursue his original course, Hector passed the fountains a third 
 time, and after making a third and fruitless essay to place himself 
 under the protection of the fortification he returned to the springs, 
 resolved to try the fortune of a combat with the enemy. It has been 
 generally supposed that Hector was pursued by Achilles thrice round 
 the walls of Troy, and was afterwards dragged three times round the 
 whole circle of the fortifications by the enraged conqueror. Achilles, 
 however, having slain his adversary, considered for a moment whether 
 he should not at that instant attack the city, and endeavour to take it 
 while the Trojans were in the greatest consternation ; but having 
 quickly recollected that the manes of Patroclus were unappeased, he 
 gave up all idea of immediate conquest, and hastened back to the fleet, 
 dragging after him the body of the Trojan chief. The testimony of 
 
Homer therefore is positively contradictory to the prevailing idea. 
 
 11 seems equally contrary to probability that the heroes should have 
 run thrice round the city, for such a flight must at the least have 
 employed two hours, as the city cannot be supposed to have been less 
 than four miles in circumference on account of the population, and 
 Achilles must have passed over a space equal to twenty-four miles, if 
 the fact were true. It is also highly improbable that the Trojans 
 should have neglected to intercept Achilles, alone and unattended by 
 his myrmidons, as he must have been, during the pursuit round three 
 sides of the city, when a thousand men might have been detached on 
 the service without the possibility of failure. Achilles loo must have 
 been possessed of less swiftness or less w isdom than lie is allowed l>\ 
 Homer, if being nearer the fortifications than Hector, and having the 
 power of turning him from the wall, the Trojan w as ever permitted 
 to leave that side of the city next 1 1 ic plain. Homer makes use of the 
 word unpi, which is llie only authority for the flight of Hector round 
 the city. Now Hector w as thrice turned round by Achilles under the 
 walls, as has been before shew n, and without dwelling on the ver\ 
 great resemblance between the words around and near in the Greek 
 language, il is fair to stale that the •nr=/>/ in the flight of Hector, no more 
 signifies round about, than il does in the sixth book of the Iliad, w here 
 the Greeks are said to be fighting a<fjv” around the city w hile they 
 are positively and confessedly in the plain 1 . 
 
 Above the hot springs, is seen at a distance, and beyond the Siinois, 
 Atclie Kevi, or Kallicolone. The hill on the right of the village, 
 spotted with trees, is nearer to the observer than that river. The two 
 hills beyond Bounarbashi, the summits of which are also decorated 
 with a line of trees, are part of the forest of Ida, and with the hills of 
 Bounarbashi, form the ravine through which the Simois enters the 
 
 . vi. and vi. 'l~, tvs c,i vrjoXi- 
 
PLATE XXX. 
 
 This view was taken from an open gallery in the house of the Aga 
 of Bounarbashi, the court of which is surrounded by a wall composed 
 of wood and bad plaister, and is tbe resort of camel drivers, who pass 
 this way from all parts of Southern Asia, as far as Lampsacus on the 
 Hellespont; where their manufactures are put on board little boats, 
 and carried into Europe. Several small columns of granite, as well 
 as Ionic capitals of white marble, are found in different parts of the 
 house and out buildings; they were probably brought from the ruins 
 of Alexandrian Troy. On the left of this picture is perceived an 
 opening in the lulls, through which the road to Alexandria is carried. 
 On the hill where the road is seen, the tumulus, which may perhaps 
 be that of Paris, is situated. Between that hill and the eminence which 
 intercepts the sight of its base is a narrow valley, and the houses of 
 Troy must have covered the eminence which formed one of tHe pro¬ 
 jecting parts of the city, and which flanked and defended the way to 
 the Sctean gate. The other side of the hollow was defended by the 
 hill on which the mosque is now situated, while the road itself ran 
 along the ploughed field into the plain, between the two elevations. 
 The fields are seen over the top of the mosque, as the observer is on 
 a height, and is supposed to be looking downward toward the springs. 
 The warm springs, or the willows which surround them, will be easily 
 distinguished, and on the right very near them, is the tree which 
 marks the cold sources. A foot path leads over the hill above the 
 warm springs to Udjek. The poplars shew the situation of the gardens 
 of Scamander, which extend from them in a direction nearly north, 
 till they are terminated near the next clump of the same species of 
 tree to the right. Beyond the gardens, in the same direction, is the 
 marsh made by the Scamander, in which Ulysses tells Eumaeus in the 
 Odyssey he had passed the night. The ground near the gardens seems 
 to have preserved, in some degree, the same appearance as in the time 
 of Homer, who observes that there was a fallow field in this situation. 
 The Scamander winds along the plain, and is only rendered visible by 
 
 z 
 
86 
 
 a few splashes of water, till it arrives near the tumulus of Udjek. 
 
 I hat tumulus will be distinguished by its size and situation appearing 
 below r the centre of the island of Imbros in the distance, which is 
 again overtopped by the more lofty mountains of Samothrace. 
 Carrying the eye to the right from the tumulus of Udjek, the opening 
 through which the new mouth of Scamander is conducted, is caught, 
 with the tomb of Peneleus, or Behick Tepe, in the centre. The suc¬ 
 ceeding bill on the coast is that of Jeni Kevi. The tumulus of 
 Antilochus follows, and the view is terminated on the right by the 
 bill of J eni Chehr, or Sigseum, the tumulus of Achilles scarcely dis¬ 
 cernible, the village of Koum Kale, and the point of the Thracian 
 Chersonesus. The reader must be aware of the difficulty of repre¬ 
 senting objects from an eminence, for which reason the situation of the 
 hrineos will be scarcely intelligible from this view, though 1 hope 
 sufficiently so from the two last. The summit of that mount covered 
 with the tombstones of the former inhabitants of the village of Bou- 
 narbashi is visible, directly above the lire w ood in the corner of the 
 farm yard in the foreground. 
 
PLATE XXXI. 
 
 
 Phis view will exhibit more clearly that part of the country which 
 extends between Bounarbashi and Koum Kale, as well as the eastern 
 side of the plain toward Kallifatli, and that boundary of the vale of 
 Thymbra on which the Ilium immune was situated. The Simois is 
 seen winding along the level on the right, and its banks are fringed 
 with willows and tamarisks. It will be observed that the view is 
 taken from so inconsiderable an elevation, that a very narrow line of 
 sea only is visible in the distance, and the channel of the Hellespont 
 is scarcely distinguishable. The projecting hill in the vale of 
 Thymbra, on which Ilium Recens is supposed to have stood, is very 
 evident, though far distant, and it may be found by carrying the eye 
 upwards from the angle formed by the fence in the foreground. It 
 may be observed that almost any number of the Grecian troops might 
 be placed behind that eminence, so as to render it necessary for the 
 Trojans to send a spy to some part, either to the eastern or western 
 side of the plain, in order to observe the first movements of the 
 enemy. Strabo has been cited on a former occasion to shew, that 
 the Greek encampment must have been almost as far advanced into 
 the plain as this hill of New Ilium; for in his time the port of the 
 Greeks was only distant twelve stadia from that hill, and he thought, 
 that the sea had been at least six stadia nearer in the age of Priam. 
 That the idea of that geographer is just, may be proved from the cer¬ 
 tainty, that a proportional increase of land has taken place between 
 the age of Tiberius and the present day. It must be allowed also, 
 that owing to the distance of the city from the sea, the Trojans must 
 have been compelled to send a messenger for intelligence concerning 
 the number and motions of their enemies, to some eminence not far 
 from the shore. 
 
89 
 
 PLATE XXXII. 
 
 This drawing has nothing to recommend it except the assistance it 
 affords to the general plan for the illustration of every part of the hill 
 of Bounarbashi, no portion of which can he totally uninteresting to 
 the curious. The view was taken from a window in the back part of 
 the Aga’s house looking nearly south. The two tumuli in the Acropolis 
 are discoverable at the summit of the highest hill. Beyond the most 
 distant house on the left, the ground falls very quickly toward the 
 liver. The city appears to have entirely covered the rising ground, 
 and if so, must have produced a noble effect. 
 
 The modern houses in the foreground are exact portraits of those 
 which now exist at Bounarbashi, and will give an idea of such as are 
 generally found throughout the country. I have been informed that 
 the streets, if indeed they are worthy of that name, are paved witli a 
 species of lava, but I am not able to speak from my own knowledge 
 on the subject. 
 
 A A 
 
PLATE XXXIII. 
 
 Near the centre of the preceding plate a road is seen leading toward 
 the summit of the hill, and on the right of it is the tree from whence 
 the present view was taken. On the right are seen the two tumuli in 
 I he Acropol is, and the rapid descent from these monuments to the 
 Simois is perceived. The river is not however discernible, but flows 
 through the glen between the citadel and the hills in the distance. 
 A green hill rises in the centre of the view, decorated at its summit 
 with a number of trees, beyond which the descent is exceedingly rapid 
 to the Simois, which runs at the eastern base of that eminence. This 
 is situated on the east of Bounarbashi, and as it may possibly be 
 the opinion of some, that it was once included in the city, I have given 
 is representation. The beautiful lull of Ate he Kevi or Ivallicolone 
 is seen above the heads of the oxen in the foreground, and beyond it 
 to the left is the situation of the Pagus Iliensium. 
 
Phis plate is introduced in order to give a more perfect idea of the 
 circuit of the walls of Troy. On the west the hill of Bounarbashi is 
 separated from the neighbouring heights by the narrow hollow, down 
 which the road is carried toward Eski Skuptshu and Enai. The eastern 
 boundary of the city, as well as the south, being amply guarded by 
 rugged precipices and the river, will be found sufficiently secure 
 against the attacks of such unskilful warriors as those of the aera of 
 Priam, but the western side is less elevated, though sufficiently so for 
 every purpose of defence. The road in the foreground is a branch of 
 that noticed in the preceding views, and the projecting eminence over 
 which it is conducted, as well as the two hills beyond it, form part of 
 the ground once occupied by the city. On the left is seen the Acro¬ 
 polis with its tumuli, and in the distance toward the right, the tumu¬ 
 lus, which I have stated my reason for believing was that of Paris, is 
 visible on the summit of the hill. 
 
 PLATE XXXIV 
 
92 
 
 PLATE XXXV. 
 
 The scene, represented in this plate, is perhaps one of the most sin¬ 
 gular, as well as the most interesting that can be found in any part 
 of the Troad. The spectator is supposed to look toward the south 
 and to turn his back on Bounarbashi and the Hellespont. The two 
 tumuli on the summit of the hill behind the village have been ob¬ 
 served from the ford of the Simois, and many other situations in the 
 plain below; but the curvature of the hill prevented the sight of the 
 third monument from the lower grounds. From the Aga’s house a steep 
 and rugged ascent extends to the nearest tumulus, which is about one 
 thousand four hundred and eighty yards distant, and is of a very 
 different construction from the other sepulchres of the country. It 
 consists of a large conic heap of stones, apparently thrown together 
 without any order or regularity, and on the top of it is a small patch 
 of earth, producing long grass and weeds. On the left or east of this 
 monument, the hill declines abruptly toward the Simois, which flows 
 in the deep glen at its base. Proceeding in a direction nearly south 
 from the first tumulus, the traces of a wall are perceptible among the 
 bushes on the right, at the distance of about thirty yards. Its course 
 and situation may be seen by referring to the map, where a small 
 portion of it is laid down. At the distance of one hundred and 
 twenty yards from the lirst tumulus, a second of superior dimensions 
 is observed, standing like the former on the edge of the precipice, 
 but differing in construction, being composed of a mixture of earth 
 and stones, in some parts covered with turf, and producing bushes 
 of considerable size. Beyond this two pits are discovered, excavated 
 in the solid rock, and distant about fifty yards from the second 
 tumulus. Still pursuing the same course, a third tomb is perceived 
 ot considerable size, but destroyed toward [lie top by time or violence. 
 It is distant about one hundred yards from the second. On the right 
 or western side of this the ground again falls with a very precipitous 
 descent into a vale, watered like the glen on the left by the Simois. 
 
93 
 
 At the base of the third tumulus, the ruins of a thick wall, now only 
 traced by the heap of stones, which once served for its erection, may 
 be seen, crossing the hill in the narrowest part from that monument 
 toward the left. The whole breadth of the hill, and consequently 
 length of the wall, is not more than two hundred yards. 
 
 The heap of rubbish is greater toward the left than in other places, 
 and loose stones have rolled down the precipice in great quantities 
 from that part into the dell below. Beyond the wall the hill rises and 
 again spreads out into an oval of considerable size. The precipices 
 which surround it are of course more profound, and m some parts, 
 particularly at the south eastern extremity, more perpendicular. On 
 the summit are several foundations, which will be noticed on a future 
 occasion. Between the second and third tumuli are also many traces 
 which indicate the situation of temples or habitations. The more 
 distant mountains form the opposite side of the glen, through which 
 the Simois flows at the base of the southern extremity of the hill of 
 Bounarbashi. Having thus described the plate, it remains to be 
 shown, that the objects delineated have an obvious connection with 
 some part of the scenery of the Iliad. The first tumulus seems 
 unquestionably to be that of Hector; for though innumerable instances 
 may be brought to prove, that the custom of raising sepulchres within 
 the walls of cities waS not at all general during the more remote ages, 
 yet examples are not wanting to shew that an occasional deviation 
 from I he ordinary method sometimes took place. Among others the 
 tumulus of Autonous at Delphi, and of Canathus at Thebes may be 
 mentioned. The latter, which is of a date antecedent to the war of 
 Troy, and coeval, or nearly so, with the settlement of Cadmus in 
 Greece, yet remains a testimony of this fact, and no mistake can pos¬ 
 sibly have arisen in so circumscribed a situation as the Cadmeia. We 
 have however in this instance a more positive argument in favour of 
 the tumulus in question; for Homer himself informs us, that the tomb 
 of Hector was within the walls of Troy, or at least, what is equivalent, 
 Priam tells Achilles that it shall be so 1 . The tomb was erected, as 
 we are informed in the last book of the Iliad, in the following manner. 
 The body being burned on a funeral pile, the bones, collected in a 
 
 1 II. xxiv. 662 . 
 
 B B 
 
PLATE XXXVI. 
 
 "1 his view, which includes an angle of about one hundred and thirty- 
 five degrees, is calculated to give a comprehensive view of the scene 
 of the Iliad, as it appears from the summit of the second tumulus of 
 the Acropolis, which is known by the name of Priam. In the centre 
 of the view is seen the village of Bounarbashi, situated at the foot of 
 the hill, and about one mile distant. To the right of this a hill rises 
 gently to a considerable elevation, after which it falls quickly to the 
 Simois, which washes its base. It seems probable that this was not 
 included within the walls. 
 
 Nearer to the observer is the tumulus of Hector, on the east of 
 which the hill of the Acropolis falls likewise in abrupt precipices to 
 the river. The Simois is seen winding at the bottom of the dell, and 
 is again caught in the plain a little to the right of Bounarbashi, after 
 which its meandering course is not easily distinguished, uniting itself 
 with the Xanthus opposite Jeni Chehr, and discharging itself into the 
 Hellespont at Koum Kale. The pretty village of Atclie Kevi, situated 
 on the Kallicolone, is visible above the first angle formed by the river, 
 and at a short distance to the left of it is seen the country of the Pagus 
 lliensium. The eye carried along that range of eminences beyond 
 Atclie Kevi toward the left, will observe them terminating in the hill 
 of Ilium Recens, beyond which, the vale of Thymbra and the hills of 
 the Rhaetean promontory extend to the Hellespont. On the right, 
 or most northern part of that channel, the castles of the European 
 and Asiatic Dardanelles are descried. Beyond the Hellespont the 
 Thracian Chersonesus is seen with its tumuli, and the castle of Baron 
 De Tott. Three ships, belonging to the fleet of the Captain Pasha, 
 point out the anchorage when the wind blows from the north. Near 
 them, on the Asiatic shore, is the castle of Koum Kale, to the left of 
 which, on the coast, is the tumulus of Achilles. Still proceeding to the 
 left, the hill of Sigaeum, and village of Jeni Chehr are perceived; 
 above which is the northern extremity of Irnbros. T he isle Samothrace 
 
97 
 
 is yet more distant. I he tumulus of Antilochus is seen nearly in the 
 centre of the plate; and on the next eminence to the left is the village 
 of Jeni Kevi. To the left of that village, the tumulus called Behick 
 Tepe is perceived on the flat through which the new mouth of the 
 Scamander is directed. 
 
 The marshes formed by that river may be caught occasionally in a 
 line between Behick Tepe and the village of Koum Kale; while the 
 sources of it will be known by the poplars on the left of Bounarbashi, 
 and the tops of the willows seen over the first eminence on the left of 
 that village. 
 
 fo the left of Behick lepe the tumulus of Udjek or ASsyetes is seen 
 on an eminence, and the village near it is also discernible. The little 
 isle of Rabbits is seen beyond these. 
 
 That chain of eminences terminating at Udjek forms the western 
 boundary of the plain, and the Scamander washes its base. The isle 
 and castle of Tenedos are plainly and completely seen on the left. 
 On the continent, below its northern point, is a village, probably that 
 called Udjek, and to the left of it, that plain which lies between Ghicle 
 and Bounarbashi. Ihe hill of Bounarbashi, and presumed site of 
 Troy, is distinguished by a lighter tint than the neighbouring eminences. 
 Above the first tree, near the left of the picture, the tumulus, which I 
 have called that of Paris, may be distinguished. 
 
 c c 
 
PLATE XXXVII. 
 
 It lias been asserted, and confidently maintained, that there does not 
 exist the smallest vestige of the ancient city of Priam, and it is not 
 the only capital concerning which the same erroneous idea has pre¬ 
 vailed. The “ etiam periere ruinse of Virgil seems to have been the 
 foundation of this opinion; and it is not wonderful that it should 
 maintain its ground until the truth was investigated, when we recollect 
 that the ignorance of travellers for a long time countenanced the idea, 
 that not the smallest trace of the great and powerful Babylon remained, 
 though destroyed at a period when the credibility ol history is univer¬ 
 sally admitted. The existence however, of the ruins of Babylon is now 
 perfectly established; and if the situation of the most magnificent 
 capital of one of I he four great monarchies of the world could have so 
 long escaped the researches of modern enquirers, it will lie granted 
 that the vestiges of a city, comparatively inconsiderable, the capital 
 but of a small territory, and destroyed in a very remote age, might be 
 easily overlooked. The foundations exhibited in this view are such 
 as are observable on many parts of the hill of Bounarbashi, particularly 
 on the summit, and they were designed on the spot without exaggera¬ 
 tion or addition. The situation of these relics is nearly on the highest 
 point of the hill, which was seen beyond the tumuli and the wall, in 
 Plate 35, and which appears to have been the Pergama or Acropolis 
 of Troy. That fortress was situated on a high pointed hill'. It 
 w as necessary to pass through the whole length of the city in order 
 to arrive at it from the Scaean gate ’, which was near I he springs 
 of Scamander 3 . By looking at the map it w ill immediately be seen 
 that this description perfectly coincides with the summit ot the hill 
 of Bounarbashi. The citadel was called Pergamos, or Pergama, 
 and was decorated w ith many palaces and temples. Among others 
 was the palace of Hector 4 . The royal palace also stood in the for- 
 
99 
 
 tress, and must have been an edifice of considerable magnitude, for it 
 was built round a court, and ornamented with colonnades. On one 
 side were fifty chambers, appropriated to the princes, and on the other 
 twelve lodgings, occupied by the ladies of the reigning family. The 
 fabric was built with polished stone. The palace of Alexander was also 
 in the Acropolis, and was a magnificent structure, erected, under the 
 direction of that prince, by architects of the greatest skill 5 . It was 
 situated near those of Priam and Hector 6 . 
 
 It is remarkable that these architects are said by Homer to have 
 been at that time dwelling in Troy. They were in all probability 
 Sidonians; for we find on another occasion, that when robes of the most 
 beautiful workmanship are required, recourse is had to such as were 
 painted by the skilful hands of the Sidonian women, whom Alexander 
 himself had brought by sea from that country 7 . There was also a 
 temple of Minerva in the citadel, with a statue of the goddess in a sitting 
 posture; for Hecuba is described in the sixth hook as placing a rich veil 
 on her knees. There was a sumptuous temple of Apollo, the tute¬ 
 lary deity of Ilium, believed to have been built by the god himself 8 . 
 There is reason to suppose that there was also a temple of Jupiter, 
 much frequented by Hector. If it should he objected that such a 
 multiplicity of edifices could never have existed in so small a space as 
 the summit of the hill of Bounarbashi, it will only be necessary to give 
 an example in the Acropolis or Cecropia of Athens, where a much 
 greater proportion of edifices might be found, some of them beyond 
 all comparison more magnificent and extensive than those of Troy. 
 These were inclosed within an elipse, eight hundred feet in length, 
 and not half that number of feet in breadth, and consisted of the hall 
 of paintings, the Propylaea, the temple of Victory, the magnificent 
 temple of Minerva Parthenos, more than two hundred feet in length, 
 the temples of Neptune, Minerva Polias, and Pandrosa, to which may 
 be added those of Venus and Agraulos, the daughter of one of the 
 Athenian king's. It is evident therefore, that the edifices mentioned 
 by Homer, or indeed twice their number, might have been placed on 
 the ground in question, which is ol much greater extent than the 
 Cecropia. The length of the Pergama, from east to west, is not far 
 
 5 II. vi. 314. 
 
 II. vi. 317- 
 
 7 II. vi 290. 
 
 * II. v. 446. 
 
short of four hundred yards, and I lie breadth is about half that num¬ 
 ber. The hill, however, is so completely covered with thorns in some 
 parts, that I found it impossible, without assistance, to be accurate 
 in the measurement of it. To the eastward of the foundations seen 
 in this view, is a small pit, and round it are other stones, evidently 
 not disposed by chance. If will be observed, that the foreground 
 rises a little on the left, and the summit of that elevation will he 
 shewn in a succeeding view. On the right the Pergama is fringed 
 with hushes, over the tops of which is seen the rugged mountain 
 beyond the Simois, and still more distant, the Kallicolone or hill of 
 Atche Ivevi. 
 
 Proceeding toward the right, the Simois, spotted with islands, is 
 easily known; and above it the hill of Ilium Recens with the villages 
 Ivoum Kevi and Ivoum Kale, theHellespont, and Thracian Chersonesus, 
 appear. Toward the centre of the view is the tumulus of Hector. 
 
 I hat ot Priam is to the left of it, and the third is just caught w here 
 I he foreground begins to rise. The village of Bounarbashi and the 
 springs of Scamander are excluded from sight by the isthmus which 
 contains the three tumuli. The objects on the coast are familiar to 
 the reader. Tenedos is seen on the left, and the isles of Samolbrace 
 and Imbros would have been visible had the atmosphere been clear at 
 the time when this view was designed. 
 
 It they are not inserted, it is from a wish to represent every thing as 
 it appeared on the spol; for it would be easy to delineate those islands 
 as they must appear in nature from other drawings taken at a more 
 favourable opportunity. 
 
m®em. 
 
101 
 
 PLATE XXXVIII. 
 
 Fhis view is taken from the summit of the hill of Bounarbashi, where 
 the highest tower of the Pergama must have been erected, and the 
 spectator is supposed to be looking toward the west. In the fore¬ 
 ground is a large conical mount of earth, the centre of which is exca¬ 
 vated. A circular foundation of stones, not visible from this point, 
 encompasses the mount, and is probably the remnant of a tower of 
 considerable dimensions, with a door on the south western side. On 
 the right, among the bushes, lies one of the very few pieces of squared 
 marble now existing on the hill. Beyond the mount, the vestiges of 
 the wall which encircled the Acropolis may be traced, and I have 
 exhibited a part of it in a succeeding view. The foundations are on 
 the verge of the precipice. On the left is a rock, forming the south 
 western angle of the Pergama. On the sight of it, the recollection of 
 that crag, down which the Trojans once thought of precipitating 
 the wooden horse, whatever it might be, suggests itself strongly to the 
 mind. The surface of it presents an appearance somewhat similar to 
 the Basaltes ot Staila, portions of the rock being separated by narrow 
 perpendicular fissures. 
 
 The foreground is elevated to the height of about four hundred feet 
 above the beautiful vale, ornamented with enclosures and watered bv 
 the Simois, which lies at the base of the precipice. The mountains 
 on the left of the river form part of the chain of Ida. That on the 
 right is part of the site of Troy, and the wall seems to have been 
 excellently placed in this quarter on the brink of the precipice. On 
 that hill maybe perceived a heap not unlike a ruined tumulus, which 
 I did not examine. Theview, however, from that spot is very extensive 
 toward the summit of Ida, and the vales of Enai and Bairamitche. 
 
 Between the city and the sea are the plains near Ghicle and Alex¬ 
 andria Troas; and the isle of Tenedos is visible in the distance. 
 
 D D 
 
It has been observed, I hat after passing that species of isthmus, on 
 which the three tumuli are situated, the hill of the Pergama spreads 
 out toward the east and the west. The view now represented is taken 
 from the eastern side, and not from the summit, but about half way 
 between that point and the river, on the declivity of the hill. 
 
 The design of this sketch is to exhibit the disposition of those pre¬ 
 cipices which must have rendered the eastern fortifications of the 
 Pergama inaccessible, and which are similar to those which almost 
 environ the fortress. On the left, at the summit of that part of the 
 hill here shewn, is the tumulus of Hector, and some idea of the eleva¬ 
 tion of the whole may be formed from a sight of those precipices 
 which lie between that monument and the river. 
 
 It appears from this view how little the Simois deserved the name 
 of an inconsiderable brook, for it flows with great rapidity through 
 the dell below, forming in its course a number ot pretty islands, often 
 covered with wood. 
 
103 
 
 The willows and tamarisks are sometimes carried away by the 
 violence of the stream, while the snow is dissolving, or after the rain 
 has fallen on Ida, and in that respect as well as others still retains the 
 character given by the poet, of bringing down the trunks of trees from 
 the hills. 
 
 As the view was merely intended to show the nature of the narrow 
 valley which almost surrounds the Acropolis, very little attention has 
 been paid to the more distant parts of the landscape. The Hellespont, 
 however, and the European coast may he distinguished. 
 
PLATE XL. 
 
 Phis little sketch contains an accurate delineation of the foundations 
 of walls, the vestiges of which appear in many parts of the Acropolis 
 of Troy. This small portion of them was only selected on account of 
 the two ranges of stone, which may possibly indicate the thickness of 
 the wall in this quarter. A figure is represented in order to give some 
 idea of the dimensions and distances of the objects from each other. 
 
 I hese relics are on the south eastern angle of the hill, and are 
 exactly in the position which would naturally be chosen for the erec¬ 
 tion of fortifications for the defence of the summit. Such vestiges 
 may be traced on almost every side of the Pergama, and I have no 
 doubt that the foundations might also be discovered in other places in 
 the upper part of the city. I do not recollect to have seen any edifice 
 of remote antiquity, in the construction of which mortar has been 
 employed, nor has any cement been used in this instance. Among the 
 most ancient examples of fortification now existing in the south of 
 Europe, are the walls of the citadel of Tyrinthus, those of Argos, and 
 those of the fortress vulgarly called the castle of Ulysses in the island 
 of Ithica. In none of these, however, has mortar been employed, and 
 the latter do not appear to have exceeded those near Bounarbashi in 
 thickness. 
 
 The Simois is perceived in the glen below, at that point where it 
 suddenly changes its course from an eastern to a northern direction. 
 
I 
 
PLATE XU. 
 
 Th is view is calculated to give an idea of the height of the Pergama 
 from the dell at its base near the banks of the Simois. It will be 
 seen that the precipices rise to a very considerable elevation. The 
 hill on the left is that of the Acropolis, and is composed of rocks of 
 whitish marble veined with red and blue, which takes a good polish. 
 Not far from the summit is a little cavern, and at a short distance 
 from the cave but above it, are the walls described in the preceding 
 plate. The rock would have been terminated on the left by the pre¬ 
 cipice which is noticed in Plate 38, had the view been continued. 
 
106 
 
 PLATES XLII. AND XLIII. 
 
 I he basso relievo here represented is now in one of the gardens at 
 the sources of the Scamander, and is given merely for the sake of 
 preserving a relic, found in so interesting a country. It appears to 
 have been the metope of a Doric temple, and is of white marble. 
 
 Plate 43 represents the capital of a column, not unlike those some¬ 
 times found in the Saxon churches of Great Britain, but which may 
 perhaps have been sculptured in times of the most remote antiquity, 
 for the Greeks both ot Asia and Europe were able at a very early 
 period to form a capital, in a style infinitely superior to this. It is 
 found on the hill, which is described, under the name of Erineos, in 
 the twenty-ninth Plate. 
 
 J& pwk'ir' 
 
 /jt j 
 

 
 
 
Inirviiiff £r*i\iint 
 
 A6,> 
 
107 
 
 PLATE XLIV. 
 
 This Map represents the hill of Bounarbashi and its vicinity, and 
 exhibits, if not a perfect, yet a very tolerable sketch of the geo¬ 
 graphy of the place, although the deficiency of instruments necessary 
 for a very accurate survey of the spot may be matter of regret. I 
 employed, however, a pedometer, a compass, and a wooden quadrant, 
 which, though broken, was of great assistance; and as the result 
 of my attempt agrees in every respect with the views, it cannot de¬ 
 viate materially from the truth. 
 
 The reader must imagine a gradual slope, extending from the hill 
 marked Pergama, on the south, to a short distance below Bounar¬ 
 bashi, on the north. The Pergama is elevated about four hundred 
 feet above the nearest vale at its base, and the isthmus, which succeeds 
 it, may be about fifty feet lower. The ground throughout is spotted 
 with short bushes, except on the part near Bounarbashi, where it 
 produces grass. The upper portion is in many parts almost covered 
 with loose stones, between which the brushwood springs up. finding 
 a sufficient quantity of earth in the fissures of the rock, which forms 
 the basis of the whole. 
 
 The extremities of the hill are on all sides exceedingly rugged and 
 precipitous, except near'the village, where the descent into the plain 
 is not very rapid, although in most places sufficiently so to render 
 great assistance in the defence of the place. In one part, however, 
 a circular knowl appears, which was probably without the walls, and 
 which I have termed the Erineos, finding that there was no other hill 
 attached to that of Bounarbashi, which answered the description 
 given by the poet. It was an eminence very near to the walls, so 
 situated as to he the most favourable point for the attack of an enemy, 
 for its elevation entirely removed that difficulty in approaching the 
 fortifications, which the ruggedness of their situation opposed to a 
 
108 
 
 besieging army in other places'. Tl was also on that side of the city 
 which projected toward the sea; and as it was the last object passed by 
 Hector in his flight toward the springs, it must consequently have 
 been situated on one side ot the road leading from the city to the 
 fountains. The hill ol Bounarbashi is not in fact joined by any other 
 eminence, and the cart roads which pass round it arc in almost all 
 parts very nearly upon a level. The springs and gardens of Scatnander 
 arc laid down on the north west. The Simois is also seen flowing at 
 the base of the hill, on its southern and eastern extremities. 
 
 That point of the hill touching the Simois on the sou 1 li west, is 
 much elevated, and may he seen in the thirty-eighth plate. To the 
 east of the village a road passes along a valley, which divides the hill 
 ot Bounarbashi from an eminence extending to the Simois. There is 
 not T think reason to believe that this eminence formed part of the 
 city, for there appears without it a sufficient space for the dwellings 
 of that number of inhabitants which Troy may ho supposed lo have 
 contained. Agamemnon in the second hook of the Iliad asserts, that 
 the! rojans were so few in number, that if the Greeks could have made 
 slaves of them, there would not have been found a .sufficient quantity 
 ot captives to have allowed one to wait at every table where ten 
 Greeks might dine. Now the number of the Greeks at the commence¬ 
 ment of the expedition was about 150,000, which may be found bv 
 adding together the forces of llie different leaders enumerated in the 
 catalogue ol the ships. At the time, however, when Agamemnon 
 spoke, I lie Greek forces musl have been considerably diminished bv a 
 series of battles fought at Lyrnessus, at Thebes, and other cities of the 
 Asiatic continent, as well as by a long protracted war, and a pestilence 
 which had recently carried off great numbers of the people. Their 
 army is generally conceived to have consisted of about 1-20,000 men, 
 and that estimate does not allow of more than 12,000 to the Trojans. 
 Suppose then 12,000 men, as many women, and by the usual rough 
 mode of calculation, tw ice that number of aged persons and children, 
 there would lie at last a population only of 48,000 souls In Troy, and 
 that number might easily inhabit a space not greater than that of the 
 hill of Bounarbashi. Many instances might be given from the com- 
 
 II. vi. 483. 
 
109 
 
 parison of other ancient cities, to prove that the population was 
 almost invariably compressed into a very limited compass. Among 
 others, Rome, which cannot be supposed to have contained less than 
 a million of souls, was never, within the walls, more than twelve or 
 fourteen miles in circumference, and Syracuse, which had 800,000 
 inhabitants, was included within a triangle, the sides of which were 
 not at most four miles in length. Supposing, however, that every 
 side of the triangle were four miles long, the area included would be 
 only eight times greater than that of Troy, though the number of 
 inhabitants was in the proportion of sixteen to one. That the popu¬ 
 lation of ancient cities in fact occupied a much smaller extent of 
 ground than is usual in those of modern times, may he seen by 
 comparing the ancient with the present state of Athens; for though 
 the buildings yet cover a tenth part of the space within the original 
 walls, it does not contain 10,000 souls : whereas the same extent of 
 soil must have afforded room, in the flourishing times of the republic, 
 for at least 30,000; for the lowest calculation gives 300,000 inhabi¬ 
 tants to that city". Another argument, in favour of this idea, may 
 be deduced from the description of the royal palace itself; where we 
 find the younger princes of the house lodged under the same roof 
 with the king, though almost all were grown up, and many were 
 married. Should it be objected, that a state, the capital of which 
 could not muster 50,000 inhabitants, was incapable of maintaining a 
 protracted war against such numerous and powerful enemies as the 
 confederate Greeks, the answer is obvious. The Trojans were cer¬ 
 tainly unable to keep the field for any length of time; and nothing 
 but an impregnable fortress, defended by a numerous garrison, pre¬ 
 served them during so severe a contest. In fact, a city containing 
 50,000 inhabitants, must have been in those days worthy of the 
 epithets bestowed on it by the poet. Compare it with the well-built 
 Athens 3 : that city must have been, in the time of the Trojan war, 
 much inferior to Ilion in extent, consisting of nothing more than the 
 Cecropia, and a very small enclosure surrounding the base of the hill. 
 Troy, with its spacious streets 4 , must have been truly magnificent 
 when compared to such a town, and it is only by comparison that 
 epithets expressive of beauty and magnificence can be understood. 
 
 See Hume’s Essay on the Population of Ancient Cities. 5 II. ii. 53 . 
 
 F F 
 
 1 11. ii. 141. 
 
 
110 
 
 It is even said, that the whole naval force of Athens could ride in the 
 little harbour of Phalerum; and surely Troy might with justice be 
 stiled powerful in opposition to any of the states of Greece at that 
 period. It is fair to take Athens as an example, for that city had, at an 
 earlier aera, enjoyed a very distinguished rank and celebrity under the 
 auspices of Theseus. The extent and grandeur of Ilion is merely com¬ 
 parative, and ought not to be measured by our present ideas of magni¬ 
 ficence, but by the insignificance of contemporary cities. Though 
 Pri am could not bring into tlie field a greater force than 12,000 
 Trojans, yet the allies and relations of his family supplied him with 
 a powerful force, drawn from the neighbouring shores of Asia and 
 Europe. These were sufficient to enable him to defend a well for¬ 
 tified town against an enemy, who, though superior in the field, 
 possessed nothing similar to those machines which were invented in 
 later times for the destruction of artificial bulwarks. The allies 
 added to the Trojan force amounted not to half the number of the 
 Greeks, for when the whole army was encamped on the Throsmos, 
 and none but the aged were left to defend the city, a thousand fires 
 were lighted in the plain, and around each fifty men were stationed 5 . 
 Yet though inferior in number they might easily defend the town 
 against an enemy for whom they were not a match in the field, or 
 might protract the siege to any length of time, for the city was well 
 stored with provisions, and we have no hint that it was closely 
 invested. 
 
 The result of these enquiries seems to be, that Troy might contain 
 between forty and fifty thousand souls, and that such a number might 
 with great ease inhabit the hill of Bounarbashi. Much has been 
 said of the gates of the city, and their number has been usually 
 esteemed six or seven. The Scaean was certainly that which opened 
 toward the nearest part of the Hellespont. The situation was not 
 naturally very strong, but the magnificence of the walls and lowers 
 near or upon it amply supplied the defect. It has been presumed that 
 the Dardanian and Scaean were the same, for when Hector was slain 
 before the latter, Priam was with difficulty restrained from rushing 
 out ol the Dardanian gates. If they were not the same, then the 
 
 5 II. ix. 55 8. 
 
Ill 
 
 Dardauian were in all probability situated in the next recess, south of 
 Bounarbashi, at the spot marked A in the map, for that part of the 
 city is opposite to Dardanus, w hich city was more ancient than Ilium. 
 If however the hill B w'as within the city, the second gate might have 
 been between Bounarbashi and that eminence at W. The third 
 w'ould of course be at the point C, and the fourth at D. The fifth 
 must have been placed at E, and there was in all probability one at F, 
 as well as a seventh fronting the hollow, which unites the country 
 about Ghicle and Alexandria Troas to the plain of Troy, and where 
 the road yet passes. Either the history given under the name of 
 Dictis Cretensis or of Dares Phrygius mentions a gate Hamaxitus, 
 and as Hamaxitus was a city on the western coast, it is probable that 
 one of the last named gates was so called from that circumstance. An 
 exceedingly ingenious conjecture of the learned Mr. Bryant gives 
 room to suppose that Hector ran on the road to Hamaxitus in his flight 
 before Achilles. Now Hector began to fly while near the Scaean gate; 
 and it is evident that a person going from that part of the town to¬ 
 ward the road to Hamaxitus, must pass by the springs of Scamander. 
 The idea therefore only tends to establish the claim of the hill of 
 Bounarbashi. The numbers in the map point out the stations whence 
 the corresponding views were taken. 
 
112 
 
 PLATE XLY. 
 
 he general map of the country in the immediate vicinity of Troy, 
 though perhaps imperfect in its construction, may nevertheless suffice 
 to convey a tolerably faithful idea of the respective positions of the 
 most remarkable objects. 1 here is reason to hope that it is nearly 
 correct, as it corresponds in all particulars with the whole series of 
 views; a coincidence, which would be impossible, were it not so. 
 Many maps ol this district have already been laid before the public, 
 all of which have given, with sufficient accuracy, and very little devi¬ 
 ation from each other, the general features of the country. That of 
 Mr. Wood has very considerable merit; yet he has followed the course 
 of the Simois, to the distance of twenty miles from the coast, in search 
 of the site of Troy, without having discovered the slightest vestige of 
 antiquity till he arrived at Eski Skuptchu, the Take Skepsis of Strabo. 
 It is singular that he has laid down the Scamander exactly in its true 
 situation, without ever examining the sources of that stream, which 
 he must have known to be the best guide to the city itself. What is 
 more singular is, that any one should search for Troy through a deep 
 glen, instead of at the extremity of a plain; when no hint of a defile is 
 given by Homer, to whom it would have afforded such an excellent 
 opportunity of varying his scene, had such a spot existed. 
 
 The map of M. Le Chevalier, published in the last edition of his 
 work, appears to be very correct, and is confined to the most inter¬ 
 esting part of the country. That of Mr. Morrit corresponds with the 
 former. A large map of the whole of Phrygia Minor, by the engineer 
 Kauffer, lately published by Messrs. Clarke and Cripps, would have 
 been invaluable, had not the previous appearance of a spurious copy 
 induced those gentlemen to engrave a fac simile of the original, and 
 thus prevented them from employing the knowledge acquired by their 
 talents and industry, in the correction of some trifling errors which 
 Kauffer himself had overlooked. One mistake, which seems particu¬ 
 larly to require attention, is the insertion of a hill between the tomb 
 
 
TROY'.i? 
 
 Wm imjj.>Jillii 
 
 -^Iniilli oft 
 
 '/W.y'i,’ 
 
 Ik-IrTk 
 
 
 Tciujile frlluii 
 
 Ilnli.-ia^Tj.rMvriiinc 
 
 TmiiuUii 
 
 UT.ofAmiliiojius 
 
 
 Irhiblnli 
 
 Situation of Ilium lU-cfjia 
 
 TfaflinsJ 
 
 Ibiinedl 
 
 liridgc.j 
 
 
 'hao/ud'' 
 
 \\Afounl VColumns 
 
 KouiuKi'n |' 
 
 Vole of 'ilivinbra 
 
 Hnhljj Eli 
 
 'E-m.of A|Hill<>'nn,'mbiU'Uf 
 
 Ilinnsof 
 Scain/uulrui ju 
 
 Uimiiliis, 
 
 gfeu i <'in'll r 
 
 / TVif TVilrrirlus 
 iT? of Arliillo* 
 furl .li'li illi'iim 
 
 At i I’li-u t llhu-U'um 
 
 Moii ili ol Snnbm's 
 X SomiJuuliT 
 
 2Vfap n£ tSie 
 
 IPi.aik' of Trot 
 
 HELLE SPOKTT 
 
 
 f T’of Protefilaua 
 
 
 /low. 
 
11.3 
 
 °f Ajax and the town of Koum Kale on the coast, whereas that part is 
 a low, sandy, and marshy flat, scarcely rising above the level of the 
 water. This is of consequence, because the flat space between the 
 tumuli of Achilles and Ajax, on which the Greek army was encamped, 
 is by this hill reduced to an extent short of 1200 yards; whereas the 
 real distance between those objects is not less than two miles and an half. 
 Another inaccuracy of Kauffer, though not of equal importance, should 
 yet be noticed; I mean the prolongation of the hill of the city of 
 Constantine, or Ilium Recens, westward, till it absolutely meets the 
 banks of the Simois: this is incorrect; for a line, drawn from Kallifatli 
 to Koum Kevi, would leave that hill more than a mile to the east. 
 The truth is, that a line drawn from the mouth of the rivers to the 
 tumuli of Bounarbashi, passes through the western point of the hill 
 where Kauffer places the city of Constantine, between which and the 
 Simois is a wide plain. It may be added, that the range of hills on 
 which Tchiblak is situated, does not in any part project so far to the 
 south as to interfere with a right line, drawn from the tomb of Antilo- 
 chus to Atche Kevi; for if it did, then would the latter of these places 
 be seen over the top of the points marked by a tumulus, and the ruins 
 of a temple, in the map of Kauffer; a circumstance which a reference 
 to Plate 19 will shew not to exist. The map here given varies accord¬ 
 ingly from the plan of Kauffer in these particulars. The situation of 
 Kallifatli is in the direct line between the tumulus of Antilochus and 
 Atche Kevi, and the same line cuts almost through the highest point of 
 Ida; but if it were possible to judge from appearance, I should have 
 placed the former village at least a mile and a half higher up the 
 country, than it now stands in the map. The plan here given differs 
 also from those which have preceded it, in having the hill of Bou- 
 uarbasbi more distinctly and accurately laid down; a circumstance 
 which seems very necessary, as that is in fact the most interesting 
 part of the district. 
 
 In regard to the brooks, as none of them contained any water dur¬ 
 ing the time of my visit to the Troad, I cannot vouch even for the 
 general correctness, with which they are introduced. Even the 
 Thymbrius was nearly dry in the month of December; and I am 
 doubtful whether it falls into the Scamander above or below the 
 
 G G 
 
114 
 
 bridge, or whether it is not lost in the marsh near the Karanlik 
 Limani. That part of tire coast, which lies at the mouth of lire rivers, 
 is coloured in such a manner as to demonstrate the present form, as 
 well as the increase of the sands, since the aera of the war of Troy. 
 The most northern of the dotted lines points out the coast, as it ap¬ 
 peared in the time of Strabo, while the more southern, on the banks 
 of the '1 hymbrius, is the boundary of the bay, which sheltered the 
 fleet of Agamemnon. 
 
 That such a disposition of the country is correct, may be inferred 
 from the testimony of Strabo. That geographer affirms that the 
 distance from the sea to the citv of New Ilium was in bis time twelve 
 stadia, or one mile and an half. Now the situation of Ilium Recens 
 being ascertained by inscriptions found on the spot, it. will be acknow¬ 
 ledged that the nearest part of ihe sea must have flowed at the point, 
 where are the vestiges of Scamandria, a town placed bv Pliny at the 
 outlet of the Scamander; for the measurement of twelve stadia cor¬ 
 responds with the real distance between the rums of the two places. 
 Strabo further calculates, that the land had increased six stadia be¬ 
 tween the time of the Trojan war and the reign of Tiberius. By 
 proceeding six stadia in a right line from the traces of Scamandria 
 toward New Ilium, a point in the coast, as it existed in the days of 
 Agamemnon, will be found, and that point is marked in the map, by 
 tbe spot where the dotted line crosses the river Thymbrius. The 
 idea of Strabo is just in regard to the incroachment upon the sea, which 
 the accumulation of sand has occasioned at the mouth of the river; for 
 if the land had advanced six stadia during the 1200 years which inter¬ 
 vened between the seras of Agamemnon and Tiberius, by a proporti¬ 
 onate increase nine stadia would be added between the age of Tiberius 
 and the year 1800. The fact is, that very little is wanting to render 
 the calculation perfectly accurate, and the deficiency is easily accounted 
 for by tbe exposure of the sands to the violent current of the Helles¬ 
 pont, which has at present a more powerful action upon them than 
 when they projected no further than the Rhaetean Cape. It appears 
 from Homer, that the coast receded between the two promontories 1 . 
 
 
 1 11. xiv. 36. 
 
 
 
 
115 
 
 in such a manner as to form a spacious port, aud this affords another 
 argument if such were necessary, in proof of the alteration which has 
 taken place in the shore. 
 
 The river Scamander, united with the Simois, flowed, even in the 
 time of Strabo, into the port of the Achaeans, as it was then called, at 
 the place indicated by a dotted line front Koum Kevi. T lie remains 
 of the ancient channel may yet be found at that village, and may he 
 traced toward the junction of the rivers at the tomb of Ilus. Scaman- 
 dria was at the spot where the Scamander fell into the sea, as Pliny 
 informs us. Now Scamandria was only twelve stadia from New 
 Ilium, according to the same author, and the more any place lay to the 
 westward of the vestiges called Scamandria in the map, the more would 
 the distance from New Ilium be increased beyond that measurement, 
 while on the east a rocky hill must have set hounds to the wandering 
 of Scamander on that side. Perhaps the differences of opinion on the 
 subject of the ancient mouth of the river have been owing to the im¬ 
 portance of the town of Sigaeum, when compared to the insignificance 
 of the miserable village of Scamandria; an importance which has 
 induced some authors to say, that the outlet was near Sigieum, being a 
 place so much better known to the world. It was however near 
 Sigaeum, not being more than two miles and an half distant. If then 
 it he clear, that the Scamander fell into the Karanlic Limani, in the 
 time of Strabo, at the ruins of Scamandria, and in the time of Agamem¬ 
 non at the point where the dotted line crosses the stream Thymbrius, 
 it will be allowed that the Greek encampment must have occupied a 
 curved shore on the southern bank of that brook, flanked on the south 
 east by the river or dotted line, and on the north west by the station 
 of Achilles, which was near the spot now marked by the common 
 tumulus of the Greeks. It has been previously stated, that before 
 the new canal near Erkissi Kevi deprived the Scamander of its waters, 
 that river must have imparted its own direction to the Simois, for its 
 stream was not only more copious but perennial, and this circumstance 
 would bring it, in conformity with the testimonies of Strabo and Pliny, 
 to its junction with the sea, at the distance of only six stadia from 
 New Ilium, not far from the modern village of Koum Kevi. On the 
 other hand, the canal having reduced the Scamander, before its junc- 
 
 
 
tion with the Simois, to a mere brook, the latter has continued its 
 progress without interruption to Koum Kale. 
 
 1 he next object worthy of notice js a mount of considerable mag¬ 
 nitude on the south of the village of Koum Kevi. There is every 
 reason to suppose it artificial, for it is perfectly insulated, and stands 
 on a dead flat, near the dry channel. The heap is not lolly, and ap¬ 
 pears to have been levelled, for the purpose of placing on its summit 
 some kind of edilice, of which two or three marble columns are the 
 remains. I lie building was, probably, a small Ionic temple, but per¬ 
 haps the columns may have been brought as grave-stones from the 
 ruins ot Alexandria Froas or New Ilium. I he mount seems too ex¬ 
 tensive to have been designed for a tumulus, and if it be coeval with 
 the war ol I roy, must have been either the Agora of the Greeks, 
 which is mentioned by Homer as the place where the marts and 
 places of worship were erected, or I lie Throsrnos, which was so in¬ 
 conveniently situated for the invaders, while the Trojans were en¬ 
 camped upon it. I he Batieia, or tomb of Myrinne, it could not be; 
 for when the enemy was advancing on a plain, from a camp only seven 
 miles distant from the city, it would have been absurd and impossible 
 for Hector to have marched more than six miles to meet them, before 
 he marshalled his army. I he Agora was in the open space between 
 the ships and the wall ot the Greek camp, so that the intrenchments 
 might possibly have extended southward as far as Koum Kevi. No 
 objection however can be made lo placing the Throsrnos here, for that 
 was confessedly near the camp. The arguments in favour of the mount 
 near the modern bridge of Scamander have been already detailed; the 
 reader may he guided by his own jud ginent in forming liis opinion, ft 
 should be remembered I hat the Throsrnos was positively by the Xan- 
 thus 2 , which the mount at Koum Kevi must have been, when that 
 river emptied itself at Scamandria. 
 
 in retreating also from llns mount, the Trojans must have fled past 
 the tomb of Ilus, which was in the direct road to the ford, and this 
 circumstance seems to agree with I he situation of the mount of Koum 
 
 II. viii. 4SKI. 
 
117 
 
 Kevi. Pliny assigns a distance of thirty stadia between the Rhaetean 
 and Sigsean promontories, a number exactly correspondent with truth, 
 if the measurement be made along the line of coast which existed in 
 his time. 
 
 The discovery of inscriptions ascertaining the site of New Ilium is 
 of great importance in proceeding to the examination of the other 
 parts of the plain. Strabo says that the Pagus Ihensium was thirty 
 stadia, or three miles and three quarters, higher up the country than 
 New Ilium, and at such a distance ruins indicative of the habitations 
 and the temple of that village may yet he found. The exact situation 
 of the mount which I have called the tomb of Myrinne or Batieia was 
 not, I believe, ascertained by Messrs. Clarke and Cripps; hut their 
 authority for the existence of such a mount with a tumulus at one 
 extremity, in the vicinity of Kallifatli, is indisputable. One of the 
 Byzantine historians relates that Constantine began to erect a city in 
 the plain, but that it was never completed. As there is no authority 
 for ascertaining the position of the intended city, some trenches and 
 dilapidated walls found in the neighbourhood have been called the 
 remnants of that undertaking. Some again have supposed that the 
 walls of Hercules 3 , where the gods of Greece influenced the army of 
 that nation, were in this part of the plain; but as they were built for 
 the purpose of attacking a sea monster, they were probably on the 
 shore of the iEgean sea, near the present village of Jeni Kevi. Such 
 a situation also would place the tutelary deities of Greece on the right 
 of their own army, as those of Troy would he on the right of the 
 Trojans on Kallicolone. That beautiful hill is mentioned by Strabo as 
 the true Kallicolone of Homer, and he adds, that it was ten stadia, or 
 one mile and a quarter, higher up the plain than the Pagus Iliensium. 
 At that distance the singular hill of Atche Kevi is found, not far from 
 the banks of the Simois. 
 
 Mr. Bryant observes, that Kallicolone should lie before the city, and 
 at a distance in the plain, and so in fact it; is. Batieia is said by Homer 
 to be so situated, and separated from all other mounts, and accordingly 
 Batieia, or the tomb of Myrinne, is discovered in a situation, with 
 
 3 II. xx. 145. 
 
 H H 
 
118 
 
 respect to Troy, very similar to the Kallicolone. The hill of the city 
 itself has been described in the dissertation accompanying the preced¬ 
 ing plate; but it may be added, that the habitations extended from 
 the Acropolis, which was high and pointed 4 , down to the plain, in 
 the age of Priam, though before the time of Ilus, the city of the 
 Trojans had been built on the rocky branches of Ida 3 , a circumstance 
 which accounts for the different epithets which the poet bestows on 
 the place, sometimes allusive to its vicinity to the plain, and in other 
 instances to the lofty situation and weather beaten turrets of the citadel 
 above. The only object which remains to be noticed is the tumulus 
 of iEsyetes, which was seen by Strabo, near the road from New 
 Ilium to Alexandria Troas. It is very disputable whether the mount 
 on the hill of Ilium Recens is a tumulus, though some writers have 
 asserted it. Either the tomb between Tchiblak and Kallifatli, or 
 that near Erkissi Ivevi, might have been on the road, yet the latter 
 seems to have been fixed upon by Strabo, as the bridge near the 
 tomb of Ilus was the place for crossing the river, and the road must 
 necessarily have passed very near the tumulus of Erkissi. It is per¬ 
 haps a point not easily ascertained, but the reader will have the op¬ 
 portunity of forming an opinion from the examination of the map 
 and the plates connected with the subject. It should however always 
 be remembered that the hill of Tchiblak lies between Troy and the 
 Grecian port, so that the tumulus of Udjek is in fact the nearest point 
 to the city, as well as the best for obtaining a knowledge of the mo¬ 
 tions of an enemy in that quarter. It is unnecessary to add, that 
 the distance between Troy and the camp was not more than seven 
 miles, and that a march of three or even four times that distance 
 might be performed in a single day, without very great difficulty. 
 Since my return from the Troad I was favoured with the following 
 particulars by Mr. I. L. Foster, who examined the country with great 
 judgment and attention. That gentleman observed, that the canal of 
 the Scamander did not run at the base of the hill of Udjek, but was 
 carried between two banks, which rise to it on each side, and which 
 pass along the slope of the eminence : an incontestible proof that 
 the canal is artificial, as the water would naturally have sought the 
 vale below. 
 
 * II. xx. 52. 
 
 II. xx. 216. 
 
119 
 
 Mr. Foster observed a cut, to the south of the natural junction of 
 the Simois and Scamander, through which a stream was flowing into 
 the former with considerable rapidity. The water in the ancient bed 
 of the Scamander was about one foot and a half in depth and fifteen 
 in breadth, and the bridge over it, consisting of four arches, near sixty 
 feet long. I am indebted also to Mr. Foster for the insertion of a 
 tumulus which I had sketched without having noticed in Plate 15. 
 
 The account of the territory of Troy being thus completed, it will 
 perhaps be necessary to make a few observations on the inhabitants, 
 at the time of the invasion of the Greeks. The learned Mr. Bryant 
 informs us in the third volume of his Mythology, p. 439, that the 
 Trojans came originally from Egypt; for they were of one family with 
 the Jitanians and the Meropians. Hus is distinguished as a Merop 
 Atlantian, and he was of the race of the Trojan kings, consequently 
 they were all Merop Atlantians. Herodotus also observes, that the 
 Atlantians of Phrygia were skilled in the sciences, and Diodorus says, 
 that they were allied to the gods and heroes, a circumstance which 
 may account for the difference of language which existed between the 
 gods and men, of which Homer takes notice. Dardanus is said by 
 Homer to have been the son of Jupiter; he is called Areas by 
 Dionysius of Halicarnassus, and is said by him to have come from 
 Arcadia, after a deluge, with Corybas his nephew, to Samothrace, 
 whence he passed over into Phrygia. Mr. Bryant observes that they 
 introduced rites in memory of the ark in Phrygia, and from the names 
 of cities in that country, such as Theba and Larissa, which signify the 
 Ark, the fact is extremely probable. Dardanus is said to have built 
 a city bearing his name, on the Hellespont; and by Stephanus By- 
 zantinus to have married Batieia, Asia, or Arisbe, the daughter of 
 Teucer, who was the son of Scamander and Ida, and from whom a 
 Phrygian dynasty received its name. The city Arisbe was probably 
 named front her, and from her ancestors the mountain Ida and the 
 river Scamander seem to have been called. 
 
 That river had, however, either received the name of Xanthus in 
 earlier times, for Scamander was the name used by mortals in the age 
 of Priam, or Xanthus was applied to it by the colony introduced by 
 
120 
 
 Dardanus, who was the reputed son of Jupiter, or rather who intro¬ 
 duced the worship of that deity. Ericthonius, ille issue of that 
 marriage, became the possessor, not only of Dardanus, but of the 
 plain, afterwards called the plain of Troy, for he is said to have kept 
 3000 mares grazing in the marsh. It appears that these might be the 
 priestesses of the goddess Hippa, who were figuratively so called, as 
 Mr. Bryant informs us. 01 Batieia, Asia, or Arisbe, the daughter of 
 Teucer, it may be observed, that she was of a family, or was herself 
 [he leader of a people, who originally came from Africa. The gods, 
 says Homer, called her Myrinne, and Diodorus thought she was con¬ 
 temporary with Isis and Osiris. She was allied to Orus, and passed 
 through Egypt, Syria, and Cilicia, in her way to Phrygia, building the 
 cities of Cuma, Pitane, and Priene, on her route, and taking possession 
 of Lesbos and Samothrace, in the latter of which she for some time 
 took up her residence. The two colonies led by Dardanus and My¬ 
 rinne are thus brought from Egypt to Samothrace, and it is not impro¬ 
 bable that they might in fact have formed one and the same people. 
 Myrinne however was llie leader of a powerful army, and seems to 
 have been more warlike or more unfortunate than her husband, for not 
 content with the continent of Phrygia, she attacked Thrace at the 
 instigation of I lie augur Mopsus, and was slain. Her tomb has often 
 been mentioned, and is particularized by Homer as a mount of earth, 
 which some have supposed to have been covered with brambles from 
 the resemblance il bears to the Greek word, Ua-os, a bramble, yet if so, 
 it would not have been selected for marshalling an army. 
 
 The Atlantians appear to have been settled in Phrygia before the 
 time of Dardanus and Batieia, and she seems to have been called 
 Myrinne, as Scamander was Xanthus, in their language. 
 
 The son of Batieia, Ericthonius, was a rich and powerful monarch, 
 and is said to have discovered the mines of precious metals, with which 
 the country abounded, and of which the [races are vet, visible in the 
 vicinity of Skepsis. 
 
 In the reign of Ericthonius, the city ot the Trojans was either in 
 another situation, or covered only the upper part of the hill, as the 
 
 
 
121 
 
 city of Cecrops did the rock of the Acropolis at Athens; but when 
 Tros, his son, ascended the throne, the people were so multiplied that 
 they began to overspread the declivity, and the additional town was 
 called Troy, in honour of that prince. The original fortress, or citadel, 
 was probably stiled Dardania, the town of Tros succeeded, and at 
 length in the time of Ilus Ins son, the habitations occupied the whole 
 of the hill. Ilus gave his own name Ilion to the city, or at least to 
 that part of it which had been added in Ins reign; and the kingdom 
 was at that time become so potent, that the monarch found means to 
 expel Tantalus and his son Pelops from Asia. These princes appear 
 to have possessed a portion of the country by descent from its more 
 ancient sovereigns, yet they were barbarians in comparison with the 
 king of Troy; and Sophocles introduces the lesser Ajax insulting 
 Menelaus on account of his descent from so disreputable a stock. 
 Pelops being the grandfather of the Atridse, and Ilus of Priam, it is 
 not wonderful if the kings of Peloponnesus, who were also related to 
 the principal families of Greece, should be eager to seize any pretence 
 for revenging themselves on the nation who had so recently driven 
 their ancestor from Asia. 
 
 Ilus had two brothers, Assaracus and Ganymedes, and his son 
 Laomedon became famous for his magnificence, in surrounding the 
 whole city of Troy with a wall, of such strength and dimensions, as 
 procured for it the reputation of having been built by Apollo and 
 Neptune. Hercules is reported to have slain three of the sons of 
 Laomedon, and Priam, the fourth of them, whose history is so well 
 known, lost his life and kingdom at the close of the Grecian expe¬ 
 dition. 
 
 iEneas, who was descended from Assaracus, seems to have been 
 permitted by the Greeks to remain in the country after the destruc¬ 
 tion of the city. He is said to have retired to Skepsis, and he 
 certainly left a line of successors in the throne; for Homer, by the 
 mouth of one of the deities, observes, that, had iEneas been slain by 
 Achilles, the succession could not have continued. Their power 
 seems however to have been much broken, and they never rose to 
 eminence. The tomb of Hineas was shewn in the city Berecynthia, 
 
 i i 
 
near the river Nolos, in Phrygia, not far from Troy, and Festus ob¬ 
 serves that there are many testimonies of it. It is remarkable that not 
 far from Skepsis is a place named .I'inai, and near it a large mount, 
 which has been thought to be the tomb in question, and certainly 
 the similarity between the names of the village and the hero is worthy 
 of notice. The mount is yet called Sovran Tepe, or the King’s Tomb. 
 
 Mr. Bryant, with wonderful learning and ingenuity, has traced many 
 colonies from the shores of the Nile to their arrival in Greece and 
 Asia. That of the Atlantians in Phrygia was dispossessed by Myrinne; 
 and a second colony of Egyptian extraction was expelled by Ilus under 
 Tantalus and Pelops. That the Atridse were of Egyptian origin may 
 be inferred from their names, according to Mr. Bryant, who specifies 
 particularly, and with great judgment, that of Menelaus. The tumulus 
 of Agamemnon also, in the Peloponnesus, is said to contain figures sculp¬ 
 tured on huge blocks of stone, nearly resembling theEgyptian hierogly¬ 
 phics. The numerous colonies, which settled in Greece and Lesser Asia, 
 were then almost entirely derived from Egypt; a circumstance which, 
 as Mr. Bryant says, accounts for the ease with which the Greeks and 
 Trojans reciprocally understood each other when meeting in battle. 
 It is not singular that such frequent allusion should be made to the 
 mother country, as we find in the Iliad and Odyssey of Homer; for 
 even in the time of that poet, Egypt was considered, as it really was, 
 the fountain of knowledge. It. is probable too that Homer lived at a 
 period not very remote from the age he celebrates. He would have put 
 a prophecy concerning the return of the Heraclidae into Peloponnesus, 
 and the ruin of the Atridse, into the mouth of some one of his heroes, 
 had he written after that event, for he has not omitted any circumstance 
 of that nature. 
 
 Mr. Bryant, in his admirable System of Mythology, has given the 
 derivation of many names of cities, mountains, and rivers, both in 
 Greece and Asia, from the Ammonian tongue, with which those in 
 Phrygia were particularly connected; a circumstance not surprising, 
 as a very great proportion of the colonies which peopled Europe seem 
 to have passed through it. The earliest conquerors also are said to have 
 taken possession of that territory. Nimrod, Semiramis, Sesostris, the 
 
Atlantians, M eropians, Myrinne, and, even in the memory of Priam, the 
 Amazons, are at different periods recorded as the inhabitants of 
 Phrygia, and all of them were of Ammonian extraction. A few of the 
 names given by Mr. Bryant from the mother tongue will suffice to shew 
 this intimate connection. That author informs us that II and El sig¬ 
 nify the sun, (p. 463, vol. 2.) and in page 464, we find Elion, the most 
 high, applied to that luminary. We have here the city of Ilion, and 
 accordingly we find Apollo, or the deity of the sun, is the guardian of 
 Ilion. It is remarkable that Homer has often adapted the introduc 
 tion of that divinity to the situation of the armies on the field of com¬ 
 bat. We find more than once, that the Trojans conquered while the 
 sun ascended toward the meridian, but when he began to decline, the 
 Greeks obtained an advantage which the dazzling splendor of his rays 
 had rendered them incapable of obtaining in the morning. 
 
 Mr. Bryant says, that almost all salt or warm springs were dedicated 
 to the sun in early ages, when that luminary was considered as the 
 greatest of the deities. The Troad abounded with such fountains. 
 Zeleia was the capital of a Phrygian province, and this name is parti¬ 
 cularized as connected with salt springs. The name jEneas seems 
 to be derived from a fountain sacred to the solar divinity, and Mr. 
 Bryant mentions a spring in Thrace of that name, dedicated to the 
 god. The same may be said of (Enone, the wife of Paris, whose 
 name was a compound of Ain, a fountain, and On, the sun. Xanthus 
 may be derived from the words Zan and Thoth, both of which are 
 given by Mr. Bryant as titles of the sun, and Scamander, the other 
 name of that stream, seems to have been of similar signification, being 
 a compound of Cham, the sun or heat, and An, a fountain. The 
 warmth of the spring also justifies such an appellation. Many other 
 instances might be added, to shew the intimate connection between the 
 names of places and the deities to which they were consecrated. The 
 whole history of Troy seems exceedingly reconcileable to the system 
 of Mr. Bryant, from whom, indeed, almost every circumstance here 
 mentioned is borrowed. I shall conclude with an observation of that 
 author, that the Egyptians sent colonies into Epirus, and the countries 
 on the western coast of Greece. The great similarity of names is 
 adduced as a proof. That there was some connection between Epirus 
 
aud Phrygia after the destruction of Troy, is manifest not only from 
 the authority of Virgil, but from the wonderful and truly singular 
 correspondence of the plain of Buthrotum or Butrinto with that of 
 Troy. It seems impossible to produce a more unequivocal proof that 
 the plain near Bounarbashi is the real plain of Troy, than that of 
 finding, in a distant country, its exact counterpart, chosen by the wife 
 of Hector, on account of a similitude of which she was competent to 
 judge, and retaining to this day its original aspect. 
 
 A feeling ot that respect which is due to the public from every 
 candidate for its approbation, induces me to add, that if any inaccu¬ 
 racies or omissions remain in the work, they are not to be attributed 
 to any negligence on my part, but to the duties of a military occupa¬ 
 tion; the whole of this tract having been written at the distance of 
 three hundred miles from the metropolis, without the possibility of 
 obtaining access to libraries or the assistance of literary friends. 
 
 FINIS.