n nno n'uUWtt 101 f O FcuLaXw ’Adriano Sctinkis /• 0 ( diu nu t liutwomti Rrahihici .'/hi Arum IV H fill. tf.lhtiftyla 'scan, Vittoria ^rioinifo , JpaiSft C.PaJsero Reduced from a Map Published by Autboritv at IN' aples in the Year 1810 . denotes the Roundary of the Province . the Route of the Author. | A TOUR THROUGH SICILY, IN THE YEAR 1815, BY GEORGE RUSSELL, OF HIS majesty’s office of works. Illustrated t»g a iiHap AND EIGHTEEN INTERESTING PLANS AND VIEWS. LONDON: PRINTED FOR SHERWOOD, NEELY, AND JONES, PATERNOSTER-ROW. 1819. PREFACE. “ Gracious Heaven ! grant me but health, thou great bestower of it, and give me but this fair goddess as my com- panion ; and shower down thy mitres, if it seems good unto thy divine providence, upon those heads which are aching for them.” Sterne. Indisposition was the author's reason for leaving England, and visiting a foreign clime in search of that first of earthly blessings, health, so justly and empha- tically desired in the above quotation. Proceeding, therefore, in the first place to Lisbon , and then to the Mediterranean; touching at Alghesiras in the bay of Gi- braltar, and at Port Mahon in the island of Minorca, he ultimately disembarked at Genoa . IV PREFACE. Thus finding himself upon the continent of Italy , and at every step treading classic ground, in Amphitheatre — Theatre - - - 143 Chap. XVII. — Syracusa — The Latomice — Ear of Dio- nysius — Epipolce— Convent of Capuchins — Cata- combs — Tomb of Archimedes — Temple of the Olympic Jove - - - - 158 Chap. XVIII. — Syracusa — Museums of Natural His- tory — Marine grottos — Papyrus plant — Fountain of Cyane — Population of the ancient and modern cities — Climate — Wines — Cafe Nobile — Women 174 Chap. XIX. — Catania — Epitome of its history — Ge- neral description — Cathedral — Ancient baths — Amphitheatre — Theatre — Odeu m — Biscari Mu- seum — Benedictine Convent — Population - 191 Chap. XX. — Etna - 210 Chap. XXI. — Cyclopian Isles — Jaci Reale - - 236' Chap. XXII. — Taormina , the ancient Taurominium 241 Chap. XXIII. — Messina — Cathedral — Piazza di San Giovanni di Malta — Palace of the viceroy — Ge- neral observations - 250 Chap. XXIV. — Faro of Messina — Melazzo — The Malian or Lipari Isles — Bay of Naples 262 DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE PLATES. Map of Sicily - - to face the title-page. View of the Temple of Segeste - to face page 63 - Topographical Plan of Agrigentum - - 82 a View of the Lake of Proserpine - - 124 - View in the Valley of Ispica - - - 137 Topographical Plan of the ancient Syracusa - 144 Plan of the Grotto, commonly called the Ear of Dio- nysius at Syracusa - - - - 160 View of the same Grotto - - - , - l6l ^ Plan of the Catacombs at Syracusa - - - 166 View of the Temple of Jupiter Olympus, with the City of Syracusa in the Distance - - - 172 / Topographical Plan of the Vicinity of Etna - - 210 View of Etna - - - -211''' View of the Cyclopian Isles - 239 Plan of the ancient Theatre at Taormina - - 245 > View of the Environs of Taormina - - - 248 ~ View of Messina and the Entrance to the Faro , with Reggio and the Coast of Calabria - - - 255 Plan of the Port of Messina - - - 256 Plan of the Lipari Isles - 280 View of the Island of Stromboli - - - 281 a A TOUR THROUGH SICILY. CHAPTER I. Departure from Borne — Voyage from Civita Vecchia to Sicily. IN consequence of the approach of the Nea- politan army towards Rome, in the spring of the year 1815, and the subsequent entry of one of their generals, the greater part of the English and other foreigners, then residing in that city, immediately quitted, some proceeding to Flo- rence, others to Genoa. His holiness the Pope, accompanied by the sacred college of Cardinals, also deemed it prudent to retire. At this critical moment, when the sentiments ol the then Neapolitan government were not B 2 CIVITA VECCHIA. known, as to whether they would detain tra- vellers as prisoners of war, the author, in conjunction with the German gentlemen men- tioned in the preface, after settling preliminary regulations respecting an intended tour through Sicily, determined to leave Rome , and proceed with the utmost expedition to Civita Vecchia , and thence, if possible, to embark for Palermo. We accordingly quitted Rome in the evening of Saturday, the 26th of March, in a carriage drawn by four mules ; but, in consequence of the roads being in so extremely bad a state, we were no less than nine hours in traversing' a distance of twenty-five miles. It was mid- night therefore before we arrived at the osteria , or road-side public-house, where we halted and passed the night. This osteria is about midway between Rome and Civita Vecchia. We remained at this uncomfortable hovel more for the purpose of refreshing our mules than for any advantage we could possibly expect to receive, as it presented such an unfavourable appearance. Even the way to the chamber destined for our reception laid through a large loft, occupied by more than forty wretched- Cl VI T A VECCHIA. 3 looking men, women, and children, reposing on straw. Having taken possession of the chamber, we conceived it prudent, previously to extinguishing the light, to examine it well ; and, upon looking under the bed, we disco- vered a secret trap-door, evidently communi- cating with the stables below. This circum- stance tended to create in our minds a con- siderable degree of suspicion, which we were wholly unable to dispel ; we therefore refrained from going to bed, amusing ourselves by con- versing about our intended tour, and Sicily. We quitted this miserable abode at day- break, and passed through Paolo, San Severo, and Marinello , at which latter place we made our colazione or breakfast. We then continued our journey towards Chita Vecchia , where we arrived about four o'clock in the afternoon. In consequence of the entry of the Neapolitan troops into the Roman territory, this town was declared in a state of siege; therefore the padrone , or master of the inn, as well as our- selves, were under the necessity of attending the governor, to obtain his sanction for re- maining there during the night, b 2 4 C I VITA VECCHIA. Civita Vecchia is situated about, fifty miles to the W.N.W. of Rome ; and the whole extent of country between these places presents an uni- formly steril and uncultivated appearance, coinciding, in general, with the other parts of the celebrated Campagna di Roma , which had fallen under our observation : in fact, the very soil for miles round this once colossal city appears unceasingly to mourn the loss of its former greatness. The present town is well- built and strongly fortified, after designs from the masterly hand of Michael Angelo Buona- rotti , and is generally considered as possessing considerable strength. Chita Vecchia was the Centum Cellce of antiquity, and many remains of its ancient mole and harbour still exist. There being, at this time, only one vessel bound for our intended place of destination, Palermo , we of course lost no time in engaging a passage : this vessel, the Mary of Poole , was schooner-rigged, and of one hundred and thirty tons burthen. She had originally come from Halifax with a supply of salt fish, and was now destined for Palermo with a freight of char- coal ; after discharging at this city, she was to proceed to Trapani , there to take in a cargo SAN SEVEKO. 5 of salt, with which she was ultimately to return to Halifax. In order to ascertain the quantity of provi- sions necessary for our consumption, we made inquiry as to the time it generally took to perform the voyage from this place to Palermo, and the result Avas, that with a fair wind it required from forty to fifty hours. Being, how- ever, fully aware of the various uncertainties attendant upon such excursions, we deemed it prudent to lay in sufficient for seven or eight days. We accordingly embarked on board this vessel about six o’clock in the evening' o* Monday, the 28th of March, weighed anchor, and proceeded about fourteen miles along the coast towards San Severo , where we brought to, for the purpose of taking in our compagnon de voyage , the charcoal. The little comforts, if we may so express ourselves, which are generally found in similar situations, were certainly very much restricted on board this vessel; and we suffered the greatest inconvenience, arising principally from 6 MARINELLO. the limited extent of the cabin. In fact it did not exceed eight feet square, including the projections of the different lockers, and we were six in number, occupying this small space, which was not sufficiently capacious to enable all of us to lie down together. As the Mary was to remain at her present station for two or three days, we bade her a temporary adieu, and landed once more on the steril Roman coast. We then proceeded to Marinello , and took up our quarters at the osteria , where we passed the night ; and al- though the accommodation was far from good, yet it was nevertheless preferable to that of our diminutive cabin. In our way to Marinello we passed over a considerable length of the ancient Via Aurelia ; and we could but remark, that many parts of it appeared in almost as perfect a state as when originally constructed, seventeen centuries since. We likewise observed the ruins of two ancient Roman arches, which were evidently erected for the purpose of carrying’ this way across some small rivulets, which came from the neighbouring mountains. MARINELLO. 7 We observed along this part of the coast several watch-towers, situated about seven miles apart, erected for the express purpose of accommodating a guard of a few soldiers, whose duty it is to warn the inhabitants when any Algerine or Tunisian vessel approaches the land. Marinello is one of the stations where a tower of this kind is erected ; and the circum- stance of a suspicious vessel being seen hover- ing off the shore, during the evening we re- mained here, was the cause of the usual signal being made, by kindling a lire upon the top of it, which signal was immediately repeated by the adjoining towers. After making our colazione on the succeed- ing morning, we quitted this place, and re- turned along the same Via Aurelia , to rejoin the Mary ; but upon ascertaining that she would not be ready to proceed to sea until the morrow, we immediately disembarked again, and walked along the beach, taking another direction to- wards San Sever o. During the time we were thus strolling, we were accosted by two gen- darmes , or armed police-officers, who were out upon the qui vive, and who very obligingly ac- companied us two or three miles, that is to say, until they had satisfied themselves that we were 8 VOYAGE TO SICILY. not enemies of the holy Roman state. In the course of this perambulation, we observed, near the shore, many remains of ancient watch- towers and fortresses. After spending- some few hours at San Severo , we returned to the Mary, but her loading not being yet completed, we determined to continue on terra jirma , and therefore took up our quarters in a miserable hovel, be- longing to the foreman of the carbonari , or charcoal-men, who were employed in freight- ing the vessel ; and although we enjoyed, in this hovel, space enough to have lain down, yet we were prevented from getting- any repose from being grievously tormented by fleas. The night was passed therefore in conversation, our worthy host occasionally amusing us by relating the different adven- tures which befel him in Russia , and of his having been attached to that division of the French cavalry which, at one period during that ever-memorable campaign, was stationed some miles in advance of Moscow. Here he stated that he was taken prisoner by the Rus- sians, but in consequence of being an Italian he was leniently and kindly treated: and it was to this circumstance, which at the time VOYAGE TO SICILY. 9 appeared so unfortunate, that he frankly con- fessed he stood indebted for his life. The Mary being ready for sea on Thursday, the 31st of March, we re-embarked, weighed anchor, and made sail ; but having a conti- nuation of light breezes and contrary winds, we were kept beating about the Mediterranean , until Monday, the 10th of April. During this voyage we experienced the greatest possible privations and inconveni- ences, arising chiefly from the charcoal being stowed to the height of four feet upon deck. This circumstance considerably abridged the little accustomed walk, and rendered our voyage very uncomfortable, inasmuch as we were al- most suffocated by the small particles of this unpleasant cargo. Not having calculated upon remaining so many days at sea, our stock of provisions of course failed, and we were obliged to apply to the master of the vessel for a supply of common black Italian ship biscuit. While, however, we were in this dilemma, we suc- ceeded in catching two small turtles, which were immediately converted into something 10 VOYAGE TO SICILY. resembling soup, and having been, strictly speaking, upon short allowance for some days, we enjoyed a most delicious and sumptuous repast. We ultimately made Sicily , on the 10th of April, after an unpleasant passage of twelve days, near Capo San Vito : we then doubled Capo di Gallo , and Monte Pellegrino. The valley lying between those promontories ap- peared highly cultivated, and contained nu- merous villas and country-houses interspersed amid its beautiful and luxuriant foliage ; even the mountains were covered with the pistacchio and olive. After passing Monte Pellegrino, we' entered the harbour of Palermo , when we were visited by the officers of health, who were pleased immediately to order the Mary into that greatest of all Mediterranean miseries, quarantine , although she had come direct from so healthy a country as Italy. CHAPTER II. General Observations on Sicily and ils first Inhabitants. During our long detention at sea and in quarantine , we attentively employed ourselves in consulting the ancient historians, which we had procured previously to leaving Rome , in order more effectually to dispel that ennui which had taken possession of our minds. From these authentic sources, we derived con- siderable information respecting the former state of Sicily , an epitome of which, we con- ceive, may with propriety be inserted in this part of the work, and serve as an introduction to our subsequent description of this peculiarly interesting country. Whether the most ancient traditions, or the most respectable historians of antiquity are examined, there appears no reason to doubt that Sicily, in former ages, was united to Italy. Such was the opinion entertained by Pliny , who says, “ Sicilia quondam Brutio agro c oh covens 12 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS 4 inter juso man avulsu .* and w6 even find the same sentiment expressed in the works of the most celebrated poets. Strabo and Diodorus also mention that in their days, near two thou- sand years since, this fact was generally ac- credited, and then considered as of great an- tiquity. This celebrated island is the most con- siderable in the Mediterranean , and is situated between 36° 33' and 38° 18' N. latitude, and 12° 12' and 15° 50' E. longitude, at the southern extremity of Italy , from which country it is separated by the celebrated Faro or strait of Messina. The form of Sicily is triangular, which cir- cumstance, it is supposed, was the origin of its being called Trinacria by the ancients ; and the extent, or rather its circumference, is up- wards of six hundred miles. Sicily is divided into three provinces, to which have been respectively assigned the name of valley : the first of these divisions, il Val di Demoni, contains many considerable cities, such as Cefala, Melazzo, Messina , Taor- mina, and Catania , and likewise the terrific and ON SICILY. 13 majestic Etna ; in the Val di Noto, we find Cas- tro Giovanni , the ancient Erma, situated in the centre of the island, Piazza , Noto, Leontini , and Syracusa ; and in the Val di Mazzara, Termini , Palermo the capital, Alcamo, Trapani , Marsala the ancient Lilybceum , Mazzara, Gir- genti, and A lie at a. There are few countries whose surface pre- sents a more rugged or unequal appearance. Besides Etna, which is not only one of the highest mountains, but also one of the most terrible volcanos in the known world, Sicily contains a great number of others ; in fact, whether traversing the Val di Demoni, or the Val di Mazzara, whether observing the country in the vicinity of Messina or ol Trapani, every where there appear only lofty and insulated mountains. Notwithstanding the fury and ravages with which Etna has so many times desolated Sicily, it cannot for a moment be doubted, that it is to this same volcano, and to the mineral and sulphureous waters existing in so many dif- ferent parts, that the prodigious fertility of the island may principally be attributed. 14 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS Sicily has been always considered as a coun- try most abundantly fertile. Cicero designates it with the flattering appellation of “ the granary of ancient Rome” Diodorus like- wise, alluding to this great fertility, says, “ that the country in the immediate neigh- bourhood of Leontini produced of itself corn without any sort of culture and even at the present day, although much less cultivated than formerly, it is certain that no other coun- try can be compared with it, in respect to this peculiar quality. 1 his astonishing fruitfulness extends itself through all the various productions of nature, and even the fruits are in great abundance, and extremely delicious. We likewise know that the honey ol Hylda was much celebrated by the ancients ; and as to the excellence of its wines, the territories of Syracusa and Mes- sina have at all times enjoyed the highest re- putation. W e learn from Pliny , upon the sub- ject of wines, that the Roman emperors had a custom of introducing in their fetes the four most superior kinds ; these w ere the Falernian , produced near Naples , the Greek wines of the islands of Chios and Lesbos, and that called ON SICILY. 15 Mamertinum , from the immediate vicinity of Messina. Independently of oil and the different species of salt, marine as well as rock and medicinal, the sugar-plant, which is a native of far more distant isles, arrives also at perfection in this highly-favoured country. Sicily has furnished, and, as it were, lent to the imagination of the poets and historians of antiquity more incidents than any other country. It was considered the cradle of all their fables; and the neighbouring Faro of Messina , the gulf of Cliarybdis , the rocks of Scylla , and the Eolian or Lipari Isles , all ap- pendages to this famed island, have not been less the subject for the exertion of classic talent. The origin of the first people who inhabited Sicily loses itself in the night of time: even the ancient authors entertained different opinions, some conducting them from Spain , others from Italy ; while the poets, entertaining a partiality for the marvellous, speak of Giants , Lestrigons , and Cyclops. 16 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS Although we do not place implicit faith in the relations made by several historians as to discoveries in this country of ancient tombs, in which were skeletons near twenty feet in length, yet we cannot for a moment doubt, that in the primitive ages there were among men, as among animals, nations and indivi- duals infinitely stronger, more robust, and of much greater stature than the present race of mankind. Referring to the most accredited historians of antiquity, we learn that the Sicani from Spam, and afterward the Siculi from Italy, were among the first people who inhabited Sicily: this latter nation came and established themselves about the year 1364, B. C. From this epoch various other nations came successively into Sicily. The Phenicians , whom we may regard as the most ancient commercial nation, established themselves upon the coast ; and then followed the Trojans , after the de- struction of their celebrated Troy. The Greeks , likewise, sensible of the great advantage this island possessed, were attracted. ON SICILY. 17 and founded Naxos and Syracusa. In the course of time, the inhabitants of those cities established Selinus, Catania , and Leontini. We then find that a colony of Rhodians and Cretans made their appearance, and erected a city near the Gela , which they named after the river, and in the end these same inhabitants founded the city of Agrigentum. Messina was originally called Zancle , as we suppose from the peculiar form of its harbour. Strabo and Thucydides consider this city as one of the most ancient in Sicily , and state that it was founded by pirates from Cuma : these rob- bers were, however, eventually dispossessed by a colony from Peloponnesus, who changed its name to Messena . With respect to the origin of Palermo , the present capital of Sicily, it is almost impossible to form any opinion, the accounts concerning it being so widely different ; some attributing it to the Phenicians, while others, with more probability, ascribe it to the Greeks, its ancient name being Panormos. CHAPTER III. Of the illustrious and celebrated Men who J'ormerli/ flourished in Sicily. In ancient times few countries vtere more fruit- ful in producing great men than Sicily , and whether this event may be attributed to the Greeks , who always introduced a taste for the arts and sciences, or whether to that serene and lovely sky which envelopes this charming island, or the sweet and temperate climate it invariably enjoys, it is, nevertheless, certain, that it possessed a considerable number of men celebrated in all the sciences* Poets, philo- sophers, historians, and orators existed at the same time, and every Sicilian city seemed almost to dispute the palm with Greece herself. Poetry, especially, appears to have been cultivated with great success. It was in Sicily, as we learn, that pastoral poetry took its rise, and it is natural to sup- pose, that in a country so luxuriant and fertile, in a country where the principal riches con- sisted in flocks and herds, those composi- tions which sung the labours and pleasures GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON SICILY. 19 of a rural life should be greatly encouraged, and more enjoyed than any other kind. Theo- critus and Moschus , both natives of Syracusa , have generally been considered not only the first writers, but by far the most delightful in this peculiar style. Even Virgil , speak- ing of Theocritus , calls him his master: this expression alone may certainly be regarded as offering the highest tribute of praise ; and in a word, the Idylliums of this poet are truly chaste, elegant, and enchanting. Independently of the illustrious men who have, from time to time, flourished in Sicily , it seems as if even those of Greece entertained a predilection for the island, since we learn that Plato , and many other equally celebrated cha- racters of antiquity, occasionally visited, and that Xenophon and Zeno finished their days, in this interesting country. While upon this subject, we cannot refrain from observing, that it was under the reign of Dionysius that Sicily abounded in learned men. This tyrant # , born with great and extraor- * Tyrant, introduced in the writings of ancient authors, is synonymous with the person exercising supreme authority. c 2 20 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS dinary talents, and constantly praised and flat- tered by the literary characters whom he had attracted to his court, had the vanity to fancy himself the first poet of the day : one alone, Philo xenus , had the courage not to follow this example, and dared to avow the truth in the plainest and most decisive manner. This Philoxenus , according to Diodorus one of the most excellent poets of the time, being- invited to the table of the tyrant, was requested to give his opinion upon some verses recited during the repast. The poet, not finding them agreeable to true taste, criticised them severely. This unexpected circumstance so enraged Dio- nysius , that he immediately ordered the critic to be conveyed to one of the Latomice , or prisons of Syracusa . However, in the course of time, the friends of Philoxenus obtained his release, and Dionysius invited him to his table a second time, na- turally supposing that the recollection of the Latomice would have the effect of making him more complaisant. During this entertainment, some new verses, which were considered by the courtiers of the tyrant as the very acme of perfec- tion, being recited, all eyes anxiously regarded ON SICILY. 21 Philoxenus, expecting to hear his opinion, when, to their great surprise, turning himself round to the guards who were in attendance, he simply said, “ Reconduct me to the Latomice.” The ap- parent sang-froid with which this pointed satire was delivered so pleased Dionysius , that he was the first to smile, and from that period con- ceived the greatest friendship for the poet. The philosopher Dion, whom pagan an- tiquity placed in the number of her sages, lived at the court of Dionysius, and although born with a mind that soared far above this world, and endued with great natural abilities, he nevertheless confessed that he owed much to the instruction he had received from his master, the divine Plato. The desire for virtue which that great philosopher had instilled into the mind of Dion led him to imagine that similar instruction would produce the same effect, and make the same impression, upon the heart of Dionysius; he therefore exerted all his influence, and at last succeeded in inducing Plato to visit Syracusa . This austere philo- sopher, however, continued but a short pe- riod in Sicily, finding that all his endeavours to produce the laudable object of Dion were of no avail. 22 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS It was not till after Sicily had thrown off the yoke of the tyrants, and had adopted a repub- lican government, that any celebrated orators appeared. It rarely happens, indeed, that under despotic monarchs such talents either receive encouragement, or find scope for exertion. It is in a country blessed with a constitution such as England , where the representatives of the nation make the laws and discuss all matters relative to its internal or external affairs, that an orator, who knows how to move and per- suade, can expect to rise to a pre-eminent sta- tion in the service of the state, or receive those honours which a grateful nation always li- berally bestows. With respect to the numerous orators who have flourished in Sicily , we may certainly di- stinguish Gorgias , a native of Leontium , as oc- cupying the most exalted station. Entrusted by his fellow citizens with the management of several important affairs, in which the talent to persuade was highly necessary, his eloquence was never suspended till success was attained ; and at Athens especially, where he was deputed, in order to obtain assistance against the Syra- cusans , his oration was made in such a masterly style, that the Athenians not only consented to ON SICILY. 23 tgrant his request, but also rendered the greatest honour to the orator, by erecting his statue, and designating it the God of Eloquence. Sicily has not been less fortunate in his- torians. Cicero mentions Philistus , Timer us, and Dicearchus , as being highly celebrated, but unfortunately none of their writings have reached our time. The only Sicilian historian, whose works are in part extant, is Diodorus , a native of the ancient Argyrium. This great author was contemporary with Caesar and Au- gustus, and after having travelled through the principal part of Europe and Asia , retired to Rome, where he passed thirty years in com- posing his famous work on universal history. Among the almost infinite number of great and illustrious men, there is none more ele- vated than Archimedes , who was one of the first geometricians, and possessed a most extraor- dinary and fertile genius. This great man was born at Syracusa , and during the eventful siege of this city by the Romans , under the consul Marcellus , he rendered great assistance through the numerous stratagems he devised for pro- longing its defence. In the end, however, he was unfortunately killed on the same day that 24 GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON SICILY. his native city lost her liberty, and became, as it were, blended with the colossal Roman empire. The sciences and philosophy were not alone understood in Sicily ; the different arts were equally as well cultivated. Independently of the beauty of the Sicilian medals, which are numerous, and in the best style, those ruins which yet exist of the various ancient temples and other edifices are more than sufficient to prove that architecture especially was carried to the highest perfection ; and from what we glean from the writings of ancient authors, we have no doubt that the sister arts of sculpture and painting maintained their station in an equally pre-eminent degree. CHAPTER IV. PALERMO. The Cathedral— Marina, Flora , and Botanical Gardens — Theatres — Improvvisatori — Con- vent of Capuchins — Saracenic Buildings — La Bagaria — Monte Beale — Monte Pellegrino — Santa Rosalia. We remained under quarantine in the harbour of Palermo from Monday the 10th of April until the Saturday following, during* which period we were twice obliged to attend the lazzaretto for the purpose of being examined by the medical men attached to the esta- blishment. The noble landscape which presented itself to our view, lying as we then did in this beautiful bay, comprehended within its ample range, not only the extensive and magni- ficent city of Palermo , but also the neigh- bouring plains, with numerous convents, villas, 26 PALERMO. and cottages romantically interspersed amid its luxuriant foliage. This splendid prospect is terminated by Monte Pellegrino , Monte Reale , and an amphitheatre of wild and majestic mountain scenery, extending as far easterly as Capo Zaffarano , The morning of our release from imprison- ment having arrived, we were permitted to disembark under the espionage of three gen- darmes , who conveyed us before the magi- strates assembled at their office of high police, when, after answering numerous questions put by the officers of justice, we were at last fa- voured by having our liberty restored. The first use we made of this inestimable blessing was to wait upon the British vice-consul, in order to pay the accustomed visit, and to inform him of the vexatious manner in which we had been treated : this ceremonious interview being concluded, we then proceeded to the hotel, La Grande Bretagna , in the Piazza Marina , where we re- sided during our continuance in Palermo. The first object that attracted our attention in this truly beautiful city was theChiesa Madre, or the cathedral, situated in the principal street, the Cassaro. This building was erected in the PALERMO. 27 twelfth century, and presents a most extra- ordinary appearance, being composed of the Saracenic and Gothic styles of architecture, in- judiciously mixed together. The interior, al- though perfectly simple and plain, is enriched with several antique columns of granite. The remains of the Emperors Henry and Frederic are deposited within this sacred edifice in superb mausoleums of porphyry, which, in their form, greatly resemble that of Agrippa now in the church of San Giovanni di Lateranno at Rome : they also preserve in the cathedral an ancient Grecian portrait of the Madonna , painted on a ground- work of gold. We likewise visited the church of San Giu- seppe, also situated in the Cassaro : it is pro- fusely and richly ornamented, and contains some extremely fine columns of grey Sicilian marble, nearly sixty feet high. In the subter- raneous chapel attached to this sacred edifice, they preserve a Grecian portrait of the Ma- donna, of great antiquity : this painting is en- riched with the most rare and valuable jewels, and is placed upon an altar of pure silver. We then viewed the other principal churches, and found they possessed the same splendid ap- pearance, but without any regard to true taste ; 28 PALERMO. iri fact, the religious buildings of Palermo are much inferior to those in Rome , and many other cities of Italy. We enjoyed the evenings, which are so ex- tremely agreeable in a southern climate, by promenading the Marina , a raised public walk, lying next the charming bay of Palermo : this walk, upwards of a mile in length, and about eighty yards in breadth, is defended by a parapet wall breast high. From sunset until midnight, nay, often until two or three hours after, this promenade, and the adjoining public gardens, the Flora , become as it were the ren- dezvous of the whole city. In what terms we shall describe this Flora , we know notj the name itself implies much, but certainly, on this occasion, does not convey enough. The still murmuring of the neighbouring sea, and the delightful breezes which in- variably float during evening upon its surface — the continued warbling of the melodious nightingales, whose divine notes enliven this enchanting garden — the rich variety of aromatic shrubs and flowers, whose delicious essence is wafted by the gentle zephyr through the sur- rounding atmosphere — and more especially the PALERMO. 29 interesting and lovely Sicilian females who grace this charming Flora , — all united, tend to inspire those who visit this earthly paradise with more than mortal imaginings. While enjoying the most pleasing reveries within the mazy labyrinths of this delightful garden, the beautiful lines in Milton , de- scriptive of “ still evening” and the “ wakeful nightingale,” came fully to our recollection, and we were almost inclined to fancy that the divine poet must have had some such de- licious spot as the enchanting Flora in his in- spired imagination, when he drew this pleasing picture : — statues. Fortunately the confused and obscure sensa- tions excited by viewing these monstrous oh- MONTE REALE. 37 jects obliterates their remembrance almost the moment they are beheld ; and leaves upon the mind only a vague idea of the strangest follies ever conceived by man. The subjects are gathered together without any ap- parent motive, and the unparalleled collection, consisting of nearly six hundred pieces, would be no less difficult to describe than they are certainly disagreeable to behold. We must not, hoAvever, quit this most extraordinary villa without mentioning one beauty which it undoubtedly possesses, and that is, the avenue forming the approach is lined on each side with the finest cypress-trees ; this avenue is nearly half a mile in length, and is altogether a very pleasing object. The hedges along the road, almost the whole way from Palermo to La Bagaria , are lined with the cactus opuntia , or prickly pear, and the aloe : many of the latter being in full blossom, were consequently seen to the greatest advantage. We also made an excursion to Monte Reale, about four miles inland from Palermo. The road to this town, although very steep, is ren- dered easy of access, by its being carried in a 38 MONTE 11EALE. zigzag direction, supported by a strong ex- ternal wall. The ever-varying series of views which present themselves in ascending and descending this mountain are truly splendid and beautiful ; even the very air is impregnated with a sweet and odoriferous fragrancy, arising from the numerous orange and lemon groves so delightfully interspersed in the plains im- mediately below. The cathedral of Monte He ah was founded and erected by William the Good , in the twelfth century, and forms a curious monument of the riches, magnificence, and bad taste, which then predominated. The interior architecture of this extensive building consists of the Sa- racenic style, intermixed with the Grecian of the lower empire ; and which at the first coup d'ceil certainly strikes the eye as majestic and im- posing. The whole internal face is lined with mosaic, representing different subjects from the Old and New Testaments ; and although the de- signs are very indifferent, yet it deserves atten- tion from the immensity of the labour it re- cpiired : the pavement is also composed of mo- saic work. They preserve within this sacred edi- fice, the tombs of William the Bad , and William the Good, and also part of the body of Saint Louis, MONTE PELLEGRINO, 39 which our cicerone intimated was held in the greatest veneration. A considerable part ot this cathedral now lies in ruins, occasioned by a fire, which happened some few years since. Before we quitted Palermo , we made an ex- cursion to Monte Pellegrino , the Mens Ereto of the ancients, in order to visit the shrine of Santa Rosalia , the protectress of the city, which is situated in a grotto upon the summit of this mountain. We found the ascent very steep and difficult, in many places it was almost perpendicular, and for the space of more than a mile, art had been obliged to lend her as- sistance in forming a road, in an irregular direction, similar to that which leads to Monte Reale. History informs us, that Santa Rosalia was brought up at the court of King Roger , about the end of the eleventh century; but being suddenly seized with divine love, she quitted the court of this Prince, and retired into the hollows and caverns of the rocks, fully determined to pass the remainder of her days in absolute seclusion. Her first place of retirement was at Monte Quesquina , some di- 40 MONTE PELLEGRINO. stance from Palermo , but ultimately she re- turned, and took up her abode in a humid cave, upon the summit of this mountain, now known by the appellation of the grotto of Santa Rosalia , where, at a very early period of life, she departed from the troubles and mi- series of this sublunary world. After traversing the summit of the mountain for some miles, we at length found ourselves before the grotto : we entered, and at its fur- thest extremity, beheld enshrined under a sa- cred altar, the image of the holy saint, with her head negligently reclining on one of her hands. The statue is of bronzo dorato , or bronze gilt, except the hands and head, which are of Parian marble ; it is so well executed, and the general appearance so natural, that at the first sight it almost tempts the beholder to believe the saint living. Santa Rosalia holds in her other hand a cross, upon which she seems most profoundly meditating. CHAPTER V. PALERMO. Description of the ancient and modern City — Re- ligion — Women — Liter atu re — Climate. Palermo, the Panormos, or Panormus of an- tiquity, might, in former times, have been al- most considered an island, being’ surrounded on the east and west by a canal, and on the south by the river Orethus. On the other side of this river was the suburb called Neapolis , which was the part the Romans surrounded with a palisado, when they besieged, and finally wrested this city from the Carthaginians during the first Punic war. In the course of time the ancient inhabitants formed an interior port or harbour, by uniting the canal and river, by which the ships of those times came into the very heart of the city. The valley surrounding Palermo is not only abundantly fertile, but richly cultivated : it was 42 PALERMO. formerly much praised on account of the num- ber and beauty of the trees ; and we learn from Livy , “ that the Romans easily constructed the palisado with which they surrounded the Neapolis , the country being so completely covered with wood." Although this valley does not no\v possess so woody an appearance, it is, nevertheless, extremely luxuriant and beautiful, especially when contrasted with the wild and majestic alpine scenery with which it is entirely surrounded. \ As this capital of Sicily , bordered by the Tyrrhenian sea, and enclosed on three sides by an amphitheatre of mountains, is, when viewed from without, of an appearance far from pre- possessing, the traveller upon entering finds himself agreeably surprised at discovering he is within not only a beautiful, but likewise an extensive and well peopled metropolis, con- taining, within the circuit of eight miles, a population of nearly two hundred thousand persons. Two large streets, the Cassaro and Strada Nuova , each upwards of a mile in length, and intersecting each other at right angles, divide the city, as it were, into four equal parts, cor- PALERMO. 43 responding with the four principal gates : these streets have the advantage of a wide footpath, and are, besides, extremely well paved ; they are also adorned through their whole length with the most splendid buildings. The centre where they meet is in the form of an octagon, and hence called Piazza Ottangoloza ; each side of this Piazza , or square, is decorated with a beautiful building three stories in height, composed of the three principal or original orders of architecture, the Doric , the Ionic , and the Corinthian ; and is besides en- riched with statues and fountains. Standing in this Piazza , we enjoyed the most beautiful perspective views through the gates, terminated on three sides by majestic mountain scenery, and on the fourth by the “ dark blue” sea : a similar coup (I ceil is, perhaps, not to be met with in any other city in Europe. As the climate of Sicily naturally tends to encourage indolence, and consequently de- votion ; and as the French had been prevented by British valour from paying the Sicilians a fraternal visit, we were not surprised to find within Palermo , and its immediate vicinity, upwards of eighty monasteries and convents ; where, shame to the bigoted government, the 44 PALERMO. most beautiful females are every day immured. In fact, superstition appears to be carried to a greater extent in this country than it is at the present time either in Portugal or Spain. Santa Rosalia , as before mentioned, is con- sidered the protectress of Palermo , and to this holy saint the females, especially when afflicted with serious indisposition, or when suffering under any great temporal calamity, generally offer up their prayers, and vow, that if, by her kind intercession, they should recover, they will then ascend Monte Pellegrino harefooted, visit her shrine, and there return their praises and thanksgivings. In corroboration of this assertion, we shall introduce the purport of a conversation with an elegant and accomplished female of Pa- lermo, who had performed this pious journey : the young lady began in the most feeling and pathetic manner, by relating the circumstances under which she laboured at the period of making the vow, and then the adventures which befell her during the performance of her arduous undertaking. In the course of the narrative she stated that her feet were much cut and lacerated in ascending this steep PALERMO. 45 and rugged mountain ; and she concluded by confessing, that the pilgrimage to the grotto was not of so pleasant or agreeable a nature as to induce her ever to desire a repetition. The natives of Palermo are, for the greater part, acute and penetrating ; they are also elo- quent ; but their eloquence is of that sort, which manifests itself less by words than by actions ; they express much by different mo- tions of the hands, head, shoulders, and eyes. The origin of this silent language has been generally attributed to despotism and tyranny, and it is even carried as far back as the days of Gelon : but as women seem to excel in this mute accomplishment, why not rather ascribe its invention to their able and indefatigable tutor, Love? The women of Palermo are of a middling stature : black or chesnut-coloured hair, dark eyes, and regular features, are the predominant characteristics in their physiognomy. A slender shape, full bosom, and Grecian profile, may help to give some idea of that beauty which formerly served a Phidias , a Praxiteles , and an Apelles , as models, or which inspired Ads with a passion for his beloved Galatea. 46 PALERMO. Lais , the celebrated courtesan of antiquity, was a native of Hycara , a city situated to the westward of Palermo: this place being con- quered by the Athenians under Nicias , she, with the rest of the inhabitants, were car- ried into Greece . Lais then established her- self at Corinth , which became a new theatre of action for this celebrated beauty ; here she attracted so much attention, that nearly all the great men of the time, including generals, orators, and philosophers, acknowledged the fascination of her charms. History informs us, that even Diogenes , the Cynic , was among the number of her admirers ; and, notwithstanding his squalid appearance and deformity, this famous courtesan was not insensible to his love : we also learn, that De- mosthenes expressed himself anxious to obtain her favours ; but the capricious beauty having demanded a sum nearly equal to two hundred pounds, this great orator quitted her, saying, that “ he wished not to pay so dear for a single repentance.” Thus Sicily appears to have been famous even in former days for the beauty of its women; and, generally speaking, this distinction still belongs to it. PALERMO. 47 The females of Palermo are educated mostly in convents, where, to guard against seduction, they generally remain until they are of a mar- riageable age. Even the lower classes are shocked at the idea of suffering their daugh- ters to serve as chamber or waiting- maids, much less as common servants, these domestic offices being* performed in this country, as well as in Portugal , Spain , and Italy , partly by men, and partly by elderly women. The females often remain in the convent till they enter the married state, which frequently takes place before they are fourteen ; and the consequence of these early unions is, that comparatively young grandmothers are not unfrequent. While at Catania we knew a lady under forty years of age, who had a grand -daughter upwards of ten. Besides the piano-forte, the guitar is in great request among* the natives : the Sicilian females play upon the latter divinely, accompanying themselves by melodious sonnets. Their dress is well adapted to the climate ; the head, as in a great part of Spain , is generally uncovered, and no cappotta or hood envelopes or disguises their well-formed figure ; a silken ribbon or a fresh rose is blended with their elegant tresses, and no high stays distort by unnatural 48 PALERMO. pressure their charming contour , a light corset only encompassing their prominent bosom : amber from Catania , or red coral from Trapani , adorn their necks, and a black veil, after the Spanish fashion, covers their head when they appear in the public streets. The deportment of these lovely women, their dancing, and their attitudes, are attractively elegant; their conversation is spirited and lively ; their countenances express sometimes a soft languor, at others a playful character : their tone of voice is literally enchanting. Foreigners are received at Palermo with par- ticular hospitality and attention, the Sicilians being always anxious to congratulate them on their arrival ; every one is made welcome, but the English appear to be the favoured nation. Political papers are here, as in the greater part of Europe , extremely scarce, and but of little importance, in consequence of the re- striction upon the press being so rigid and se- vere. New books, such as voyages, travels, works of science, or even romances or novels, are also rare in Palermo ; and their appearance PA L Ell M o . 49 forms an era in the literary history of this city. The very great restrictions under which li- terature in all its various branches is placed, was exemplified in the fullest manner during the time we were occupied at the custom-house. Three holy monks were there busily employed in examining a collection of foreign books : as they respectively looked through, we observed that they divided them into two separate par- cels, one of which, as we understood, were considered by them as proper to be read ; the other, by far the greater number, consisting of new works on the different sciences, which these most reverend and holy inquisitors had not sense enough to understand, were set aside to be eternally damned : in all probability these latter were eventually committed to the flames. The climate of Palermo has always been con- sidered very salubrious, the temperature of winter seldom falling lower than 50 degrees Fahrenheit : in summer the heat certainly is great, remaining for many months between 85 and 90. The inhabitants, during the con- tinuance of this warm weather, regularly shut E 50 PALERMO. up their houses and shops a little hefoi e noon, and keep them so till about three ; this period of time they occupy in getting’ their repast, and then taking their siesta , or afternoon nap : in fact, Palermo is, as it were, dead during this part of the day. Sicily is frequently visited with that wind, so extremely fatal to the inhabitants of the sultry clime of Africa , and which is called by the Italians the Scirocco : when it occurs, the tem- perature rises to about 110 degrees ; its dura- tion, however, seldom continues long, or other- wise it would infallibly be attended with the most dreadful consequences. CHAPTER VI. PALERMO. Fete of Santa Rosalia. With an account of the solemn fete of Santa Rosalia , translated from a Sicilian work, al- though the same did not take place during our continuance in the city, we shall bid adieu to the gay and fascinating Palermo. “ The voluptuous and perhaps monotonous life of the inhabitants of Palermo is interrupted by the annual fete of Santa Rosalia , certainly the most brilliant and enthusiastic display of devotion which exists at the present day in Europe. But as we frequently find at the opera, that the splendour exhibited in the bal- lets and fetes often obscures the general in- terest of the spectacle, so in these rejoicings, we equally lose sight of Santa Rosalia, if, at the end of the fifth day, after a most tumultuous e 2 52 PALERMO. procession, we did not behold the shrine of this holy saint. “ The car upon which this shrine is borne is decorated, or rather overloaded with orna- ments of every species ; it is drawn by forty mules, and filled by a considerable number of musicians. This enormous machine, certainly the richest and most magnificent ever put in motion, commences its march on the first day, without the shrine, from the Marina , and trem- blingly traverses the Cassaro from the Porta ftlice to the royal palace, situated at the other extremity of this street. A grand display of fire-works here takes place, and the amuse- ments of the day terminate by the Cassaro being splendidly illuminated. “ This street, decorated alternately with por- ticos and fountains along its whole length, which is upwards of a mile, upon a plan rather concave, presents, on this occasion, a coup-d’oeil of the most pleasing nature. “ The people quietly promenade the Cassaro until midnight, when they retire, and the coaches of the nobility arrive and take pos- session. The gravity of the Sicilians is con- PALERMO. 53 spicuous during the celebration of this fes- tival : they partake of all its gaieties and plea- sures without manifesting the slightest ex- ternal symptoms of delight; and the various ceremonies pass off with a perfect regularity which never requires the interference of the police, although upwards of one hundred thou- sand persons are assembled together on the occasion. “ The principal amusements of the second day consist in their races : youths about twelve years of age ride the horses without saddle or bridle, and it is astonishing to see with what address they keep their seats. The horses are assembled and arranged behind a cord, where there is considerable difficulty to retain them : the animals being full of ardour, and, as it were, conscious that they are going to contend the prize, seem to strive to prevent each other from getting the foremost. “ Upon one of the senators, who is stationed in a species of booth, sounding a bell, the little jockeys instantly mount, and sit well advanced towards the shoulders, with their head almost reclining upon the neck of the horse. At the second sound the cord falls ; the horses then 54 PALERMO. set off, and by the discharge of a cannon, the people are informed that they are on the way ; the crowd immediately opens, and leaves a free passage for them to pass. Another senator, who is stationed at the extremity of the course, adjudges the prize, after which, the little jockey who has been successful is carried in triumph, decorated with a golden eagle suspended around his neck, amid the acclamations of the assem- bled people. “ The horses are generally the property of rich individuals, and are trained and fed the whole year for this express purpose. The races occupy part of three days ; the first is between country horses, the second between mares, and the third, which is by far the most rapid, be- tween Barbary coursers. “ The amusements of the second day are completed by the car returning from the royal palace to the Marina , stopping almost every ten paces in order that the numerous spectators may enjoy the music: the car, as well as the Cassaro , are again most splendidly illuminated. “ The third day commences with another race, and the car also repeats its journey from PALERMO. 55 the Marina to the palace. In the evening there is a grand display of fire-works upon the Ma- rina ; and the buildings contiguous to the port, as well as the Cassaro , are again illuminated in such a superb manner, that viewed from the bay, it fills the imagination with the idea of an enchanted city *. “ The diversion of the fourth day again com- mences with the course. Without comparing these races with those which take place in England , yet, from their rapidity, they are in no respect less interesting: the horses ge- nerally run the whole length of the Cassaro , which is upwards of a mile, in less than a minute and a half. “ The evening of this day is particularly distinguished by a spectacle altogether new, and of which it is impossible to form an idea without having witnessed it. This superb spectacle is the illumination of the cathedral, which is executed in a manner truly enchant- ing. The interior of this vast edifice is so decorated, that the most pleasing effects are * The author of this tour fully concurs in this sentiment, having, during the night that he lay in the bay of N aples f seen that beautiful city illuminated. 56 VALE It M O . produced by merely introducing such trifles as fringes, garlands of various coloured papers, silver tissue, little pieces of glass, and many other articles of even less value : the whole is, however, so well arranged, and the church is lighted with so much taste, that, upon enter- ing, it presents to the imagination the idea of being within the precincts of a fairy palace. “ The fifth and last day is celebrated by a long and continued procession, which com- mences shortly after the setting of the sun, and continues till one hour after midnight. It is upon this occasion that all the taste of the inha- bitants of Palermo , for religious spectacles, is fully developed. Every confraternity or re- ligious order bears in this procession a portrait or image as large as life of its particular saint. The charge of arranging the different toilettes is wholly left to the nuns, who never fail in dressing and decorating either Judith or the Holy Virgin , to pay great attention d la derniere mode , or, in other words, to the last fashion im- ported from Paris. “ These representations of the different saints, enlivened by artificial rays, and ornamented with all sorts of garlands, are carried on a PALERMO. 57 frame constructed of timber, which is borne on the shoulders of thirty or forty men, who consider they are achieving - their own eternal salvation by carrying their particular saint faster than those behind, and thus gaining time to make counter-marches and evolutions : at last Santa Rosalia , in her triumphal car, solemnly traverses the Cassaro. The presence of their protectress considerably increases the universal joy of the people: as the holy saint approaches, every knee bends in pious adora- tion ; and thus terminates this most splendid fete of Santa Rosalia” CHAPTER VII. Alcamo — The ancient Segeste — Salemi — Castro Vetrano. We finally bade adieu to the enchanting Pa- lermo early on the morning of the 22d of April , and proceeded for four miles along a straight road, which, on looking back, presented a most delightful vista through the centre of the city. We arrived at the foot of the mountains which form an amphitheatre around the luxuriant plains which encircle this city : and while ascending them, we frequently cast a “ longing lingering eye” towards that delightful abode, which we were leaving, probably never again to behold it. The distance traversed in pass- ing these mountains exceeded fifteen miles, and when upon their summit, we w ere highly gratified in enjoying a most extensive and superb panoramic view, terminated by the re- SEGESTE. 59 ceding alpine scenery of Sicily , and the ma- jestic Mediterranean sea. After having crossed this tremendous chain, our way lay through a rural and romantic valley, which appeared in a state of high cultivation, and was occasionally interspersed with groves of oranges and lemons. We now began to ascend an eminence upon which stood Alcamo , a considerable inland town, containing about sixteen thousand in- habitants : here we remained to pass the night. The road lately made terminates at this town, beyond which it is impossible for carriages to travel. We quitted Alcamo early in the morning, and proceeded on mules towards the ancient Se - geste: the bridle-way, if we may so express ourselves, was very bad, and lay through an uncultivated and mountainous country. After travelling upwards of three hours, we arrived before a beautiful Grecian temple, majestically situated upon the summit of a barren mountain surrounded by other steril eminences of still greater elevation. Segeste , JEgeste, or Acesta , was undoubt- edly one of the most ancient cities in Sicily . We learn from many of the authors of antiquity, 60 SEGESTE. and more especially from Cicero , that it was founded by Eneas , after lie fled from the ruins of burning Troy. “ Oppidum pervetus in Sicilia est, quod ab Enea fugiente a Troja, atque in hoc loco veniente conditum demon- strat.” Agreeably to this tradition, the inha- bitants of Segeste erected a temple to Eneas , where they offered up divine honours. In the course of time, this city becoming one of the richest and most flourishing in the island, changed its politics, and seceded from the alliance which it had previously main- tained with Agathocles , tyrant of Syracuse , who, in consequence, made war upon and conquered it. Agathocles then changed its name to Dic- capolis. These events, although supported by the concurring testimony of ancient historians, are yet so remote, that they almost cease to pro- duce any degree of interest. We cannot, how- ever, for a moment hesitate in believing that Segeste enjoyed at one time a great celebrity in the political transactions of Sicily. This city and Selims were rivals for a considerable period, and she then enjoyed so much con- sequence, that the Athenians did not liesi- SEGESTE. 61 tate to seek her alliance. It afterwards passed into the hands of the Carthaginians , who re- tained possession of this part of Sicily for a considerable number of years. We have no doubt that the magnificence of Segeste , even after Sicily had become a pro- vince of the Roman empire, was very great, as we learn from Cicero that Ferres , the avaricious Roman praetor, succeeded in carrying away from it a celebrated bronze statue of Diana. The inhabitants felt so much regret and sorrow at this impious sacrilege, that, upon its re- moval, they followed it some distance out of the city, having previously anointed it with odoriferous oils, and crowned it with flowers. We find also in the same oration, that the Carthaginians , who some time previously had been at war and conquered Segeste , carried away every thing valuable, including this pre- cious statue : but it happened that during the third Punic war, Scipio Africanus having in- vaded Mauritania , and finally subdued Car- thage, took possession of all the treasures which the Carthaginians had for many years been accumulating. This celebrated statue of 62 SEGESTE. Diana being then recovered, and the Roman general well knowing the circumstances under which they had become possessed of it, con- ceived himself bound in honour to restore it to its original possessors. The site of the ancient city lies some distance from the temple, and upon an eminence still more elevated. We minutely examined it, and discovered various fragments of buildings, as well as the ruins of a theatre, which had been originally constructed of stones of an im- mense size, set, agreeably to the accustomed manner of the Greeks , without lead, cement, or mortar. Its situation could have possessed but few advantages, being erected upon a very irregular surface, and in a wild uncultivated country, exposed to all winds, and without the conveniences either of a river or port. Although we may consider the city as com- pletely gone, yet, by some fortunate circum- stance or other, the temple has been pro- videntially preserved, and remains at the pre- sent time in almost as perfect a state as when it was originally constructed. This sacred build- ing was consecrated to Ceres , and is placed T, Clark Sculp , SEGESTE. 63 upon an elevation, which is bordered on three sides by a deep ravine. The coup d'ceiloi this temple, when first seen, and of the surrounding mountainous scenery, is grand and sublime in the highest degree : the accompanying view affording but a very faint idea of its actual beauty. The celebrated amphitheatre of Rome , erected by the Emperors Vespasian and Titus , sufficiently capacious to accommodate upwards of seventy thousand persons, and even that most stupendous of all modern buildings, the Basilica of Saint Peter , in the same city, create sentiments of awe and admiration only by their colossal magnificence : but in approaching this once sacred temple, so perfectly chaste and simple, and at the same time so truly elegant and beautiful, the mind becomes impressed with feelings of a different nature, and seems imperceptibly carried into the regions above, leaving all sublunary objects far behind. The temple is of the Doric order, and about one hundred and eighty-nine feet two inches in length, and seventy-nine feet four inches in breadth. It presents a portico of six columns 64 SALEM I. in front, and has fourteen on the sides ; their diameter is six feet eleven inches and a half, and their height, including the capital, thirty feet four inches ; the height of the entablature, which is extremely massive and heavy, is eleven feet seven inches : thus making the whole height from the stylobates , or plinth, to the upper- most member of the cornice, forty-one feet eleven inches. After having devoted the greater part of the day in viewing the ruins of the ancient Segeste , we proceeded towards Salemi. In traversing this part of the country, we crossed a small river, the San Bartolomeo , anciently called the Crimisins ; we likewise passed through the towns of Calatijimi and San Vito , and arrived in the evening at Salemi . Here we remained during the night at a most miserable osteria ; the chamber which we occupied was extremely dirty, and, literally speaking, swarmed with domestic vermin of almost every species. In this town, which presented a most abject appearance, we witnessed a scene which ef- fectually demonstrated the state of credulity and superstition by which the greater part of the Sicilians are even at the present day de- CASTRO VETIIAXO. 65 graded. An assembly of peasants, to the number of about five hundred, under the di- rection of the priests, were parading in pro- cession about the town, visiting the different churches, and offering up their praises for the late rains which Providence, agreeably to her beneficent will, had kindly shed upon their country. The peasants forming this proces- sion were uncovered, and wore a crown of thorns on their heads. Sicily , when carefully examined with respect to the state of the public roads, the excessively bad accommodation, and the great incon- veniences to which persons travelling are lia- ble, the apparent want of that manufacturing and mechanical genius which is in other coun- tries making such rapid progress, and the su- perstition and bigotry which still continue to blind the inhabitants, impress the irresistible conviction, that it is at least a century behind the other kingdoms of Europe. From Salemi we proceeded on our way to Castro Vetrano , through a country formed al- ternately of steril mountains and fruitful val- leys, which presented a diversified and inte- resting appearance ; and as our day's journey F 66 CASTRO VETRANO. did not exceed fifteen miles, we arrived at Castro Vetrano early in the morning. There being no locanda , or inn in this place, we were under the necessity of applying to the padre rettore , or prior of the convent of Dominicans , who re- ceived us in a very courteous manner, and im- mediately gave directions for our accommoda- tion within the convent. Castro Vetrano is rather a large paese , or town, and contains nearly twenty thousand in- habitants; it is well built, principally with stone, and the streets are laid out with con- siderable attention to regularity. CHAPTER VIII. The ancient Selinus. During the period of our stay at Castro Ve~ trano , we made an excursion to the ancient Selinus , or Selinunte, situated about seven miles to the southward of this town, and contiguous to the sea. The road to these celebrated ruins lies through a country clothed with the greatest luxuriance, the various eminences being en- riched with the vine and olive, and the dif- ferent valleys profusely cultivated with corn, and occasionally spangled with orange groves. During this little trip, we crossed an incon- siderable rivulet, the Maduini , anciently called the Selinus. 1 he plains in the vicinity of Selinus were formerly much celebrated ; even Virgil be- stowed upon them the name of palmosa, which f 2 m SELINUS. they doubtless merited, for even at the present day, they are completely covered with a spe- cies of dwarf palm , or palmetto , the leaves ot which are rendered serviceable by being con- verted into brooms and various other articles of domestic use. W hen at some distance the immense ruins of the ancient Selinus presented themselves, our fancy led us to suppose we were approaching the works of giants ; for, from their enormous bulk, we could with difficulty conceive that we were beholding the labours of men : every column resembling a tow'er, and every fragment of a fallen capital, a rock. The ancients, in rearing such colossal and magnificent struc- tures, must certainly have had the real worship of their gods much less in view', than the desire of astonishing mankind. The plan of Selinus , which is easily traced from the existence of the walls, is a vast semi- circle or horseshoe, whose two extremities abut next the sea, and are there terminated by bastions or towers ; the port, consequently, lay between these towers, but no remains of it are now visible. SELINUS. 69 It is immediately obvious, from the order which reigns among these ruins, that their dilapidation must have been the effect of an earthquake or some other violent convulsion of nature, rather than, according to commonly re- ceived opinion, that they were destroyed by Annibal as a punishment to the inhabitants for having so long and so obstinately defended their city against the Carthaginian army. Dio- dorus, whose statement tends to confirm this opinion, says, “ that the city was pillaged and the private dwellings destroyed/’ but not a word relative to the temples. We likewise learn from the same authority, that after the city was taken, the Syracusans sent ambas- sadors to Annibal , requesting that the prisoners might be released, and that he would not suffer the sacred temples of the gods to be profaned. To these deputies Annibal replied, that the Selinuntians not having known how to defend their liberty, deserved to lose it, and that the gods were so much displeased with their con- duct, that they wished not to remain in their city. However, to the prayer of Empedion , a ci- tizen of Selinus , who had always favoured the interest of t lie Carthaginians , Annibal at length 70 SEL1NUS. yielded ; and he returned to the inhabitants all their riches, permitting those who had with- drawn from the city to return, upon condition of paying from that period an annual tribute to Carthage. The smallest of the temples, still existing in this city, has the first stones of all the columns preserved in their original situation. This edifice is of the Doric order, and consists of a portico of six columns in front and thirteen on the sides: the columns are fluted, and about five feet nine inches in diameter. Near this temple is another of much larger dimensions, elevated upon the same general principles as to plan, and having likewise thirteen columns on the sides, and a portico of six in front. We next proceeded to view the ruins of the remaining temple, which was of much greater extent, and had originally been consecrated to the Olympic Jove. Judging from the ruins of this sacred edifice, it must have been about three hun- dred and thirty-two feet two inches in length, and one hundred and forty-seven feet four inches in breadth, and have had a portico of eight co- SELINUS. 71 1 urnns in front, and sixteen on the'sides : the vvliole of the plot of ground, formerly occupied by it, is now covered with immense fragments of large dimensions. We measured one of the stones which had originally formed part of the architrave ; it was twenty-one feet in length, five feet eight inches in depth, and six feet nine inches in breadth, containing, consequently, eight hundred and three cubic feet, which, ac- cording to the specific gravity of stone, must have weighed upwards of fifty tons. We ob- served that many of the columns of this temple were fluted in part only, which circumstance naturally led us to believe that the edifice had never been completely finished. The more we occupied ourselves in viewing these colossal masses of stone, the more anxious we were to ascertain what means the ancients had employed to move them ; we were also greatly desirous of knowing in what manner they had raised such gigantic columns, and afterwards placed upon them the entablature, many portions of which were so enormously heavy : and we were lost in amazement when we reflected upon the machinery that must have been employed to have transported these ponderous stones from the quarries, which 72 SELIN IIS. were situated about six miles to the westward of the city. After musing' a considerable time on this interesting subject, we minutely examined many of the fragments, and observed that se- veral of them Avere pierced through their whole thickness, while others had holes in their upper surface only, evidently for the inser- tion of a dovetail of iron, consisting of three pieces, the two external ones of which be- villed outwards; the greater number, how- ever, had apparently been raised by means of a chain or rope being inserted in a groove of a cylindrical form, made at both ends of the stone : by these means they were raised as if by two handles. After finishing our examination of the tem- ples, we proceeded to view the ruins ge- nerally of this celebrated city ; we could not, however, discover a single vestige of the part originally fortified towards the sea; and, ac- cording to all accounts, it has remained in this state ever since the period of its destruction by Annibal. On the western side the walls exist in almost as perfect a state as when ori- ginally built, and their construction perfectly SELINUS. 73 agrees with the description given by Vitruvius of the ancient masonry of the Greeks. The two vast flights of steps also remain by which the inhabitants ascended from the port to the level of the principal part of the city, which, with their accustomed good taste, was situated upon a commanding eminence. The ancients appear to have far excelled the mo- derns in producing grand effects in archi- tecture, generally placing their temples and other public edifices in such situations, that they were always seen to the greatest advan- tage, and under the most favourable points of view. The examination of this city, certainly one of the most splendid and magnificent the Greeks ever founded, and where the arts had been carried to the highest degree of per- fection, afforded us the greatest pleasure. It was founded by the inhabitants of Megare about 7*25 years B. C. CHAPTER IX. Sciacca , the ancient Thermae Selinuntince — Porto Nuovo of Girgenti. Fjiom Castro Vetrano we continued our journey towards the east, and met with a small rivulet called the Belici , the ancient Hypsa , which flows in a serpentine course between high banks luxuriantly overgrown with the ivy, rose, jessamine, and vine, naturally and elegantly intermingled under the protecting foliage of the weeping willow and wide spreading elm. We also passed another river, the Carbo , the Acithius of antiquity, and then approached the sea : and after proceeding for several miles along the sands, we arrived at Sciacca , the ancient Thermae Selinuntince. This town is situated upon an eminence, and presents, in its approach, a very agreeable prospect ; but, alas ! upon entering, those fa- SCIACCA. 75 vourable impressions immediately vanish, and the traveller finds himself in a paese of con- siderable extent, where he is unable to procure even suitable accommodation for his mule. The Thermae Selinuntince is one of the most ancient towns in Sicily ; Fazzelli , a Sicilian historian, who wrote about the commencement of the sixteenth century, and who was a native of this place, considers it as having been founded at a period anterior to all the esta- blishments made in the island, whether by the Greeks or the Carthaginians : in fact, not one of the authors of antiquity afford any informa- tion as to the time when it was founded ; or who were the first people that established themselves upon this fertile and agreeable spot. The town is celebrated as being the native place of Agathocles , one of the greatest men this country ever produced : he was the son of a simple potter, and by the strength of his genius and the superiority of his talents, he eventually subjected and governed his country. Among the different manufactories of ter- racotta vases, so much in use among the an- 76 SC I ACC A . cients, those which were established in this immediate neighbourhood, were considered by far the most celebrated ; and there appears no doubt, but most of the vases, which are preserved in the different museums of Sicily , were originally manufactured in these pot- teries. This neighbourhood is famous for the hot baths, as the appellation Thermae SeHnuntince implies. These baths, it is said, were con- structed by Dedalus , that universal genius, the inventor of all arts, every where desired, and from every place expelled ; who formed the celebrated Cretan labyrinth, and after covering himself equally with crimes and with glory, came to seek an asylum of Cocalus , King of the Sicanians (a race of people who inhabited this part of Sicily at a very early period), in order to shelter himself from the vengeance of Minos, King of Crete. Fabulous history re- lates that this king pursued Dedalus for having favoured the amour between his wife, Pasiphae , and Taurus , without success ; he remaining con- cealed within these baths. This place has been, from time immemorial, highly celebrated for the hot mineral springs SCIACCA. 77 which rise in the valley on the eastern side of the town. These springs are strongly impreg- nated with sulphur, and the water, wherever it runs, produces the same natural effects as the Solfatara , or lake of Zenobia, near Tivoli in Italy, namely, that of leaving a thick and la- pideous sediment, which hardens itself in a short space of time, and ultimately becomes converted into a species of stone. They are considered very efficacious in cutaneous and scorbutic disorders, and also in paralytic af- fections : upon immersing our thermometer in one of them, it immediately rose to 120, and in another to 126 degrees of Fahrenheit. Sciacca is still protected by the ancient walls, and contains abouttwelve thousand inhabitants : it is one of the appointed stations where there is a caricatore or magazine for corn intended to be exported. The rock upon which the town stands is excavated in various directions, and these subterraneous chambers serve as gra- naries, in which the corn so deposited is pre- served. After a certain quantity has been de- livered, the proprietor receives an acknow- ledgment from the officer superintending the establishment, specifying its amount, which 78 SCIACCA, acknowledgment becomes negociable in the mercantile world for the space of one year. With the assistance of the Sicilian gentleman who acted as the English vice-consul, we suc- ceeded in hiring a speronara , or species of long boat, latine or square rigged, with a crew of eight men, for the purpose of conveying us to the port of Girgenti , a distance of about forty miles. We embarked a little before eight o'clock in the morning, and commenced our excursion under the most flattering prospects, the day being extremely fine, and the weather very favourable. We had scarcely hoisted the sails, and stood out to sea, when a strong breeze sprung up, which carried our speronara at the rate of eight knots or miles per hour; so strong was this breeze, that the capitano or master thought it prudent to order the crew to lie in the bottom of the boat in order to serve more effectually as ballast. We enjoyed, during this pleasant sail, a suc- cession of the most romantic vie ws of the neigh- bouring coast of Sicily , and at the same time a PORTO NUOVO OF GIRGENTI. 79 superb prospect of the Mediterranean sea, whose “ dark blue” has been so much and so often eulogized, especially by that bright star of poetic genius, who now shines with such re- splendency over our northern hemisphere. There is nothing in the universe calculated to inspire such sublime conceptions of om- nipotent power, as the view of the boundless sea, whether we are sailing during a calm upon its unruffled surface, or whether encountering the violent and pitiless storm, tossed to and fro, and riding as it were, upon the summit of its terrific waves : in either, and in both cases, an atheist cannot but confess that he perceives indubitable marks of that Providence under whom “ we all live and move, and have our being.” Assisted with so favourable a breeze, we succeeded in making the port of Girgenti a few minutes before one o’clock, our speronara having run the forty miles within the space of five hours. This harbour is formed by means of a pier or mole, built about a century since, and also possesses the advantage of a light- house erected on the adjoining cliff, the mole not being sufficiently elevated : nature has, 80 PORTO NUOVO OF GIRGENTI. indeed, contributed little towards its forma- tion ; it has therefore been to the assistance rendered by art, that Girgenti is indebted for this essential convenience. This place, like Sciacca , is one of the stations appointed for a caricatore , and the granaries are in like manner formed of spacious excavations in the neigh- bouring rocks. CHAPTER X. i . • ■ ' GIRGENTI, THE ANCIENT AGRIGENTUM. Description of the ancient and modern City — The Cathedral — Temple of Juno — Temple of Con- cord-Sepulchral Niches — Temple of Escula- pius — Tomb of Theron — Temple of Hercules. . ; f ■ ■ ; s - ■ f ■ ’• ' ■’>- • After taking some refreshment at the port of Girgenti , we hired mules arid proceeded to- wards the city, which is situated upon an emi- nence about four miles distant; the road is rural and romantic, and lies between Monte Toro , the site where the Carthaginian army em camped, on the left, and the spot where the Romans fixed their station, which still retains its original appellation, Campo Romano , on the right. In traversing this small tract of country, we passed the river Dr ago, anciently the Agragas , and afterwards approached and entered the city by the same steep and winding- pathway that Dcedalus constructed when he was employed by Cocalus to render it im- pregnable. This approach is formed with so 82 GIRGENTI, much skill and ingenuity, that Diodorus re- marked, that three or four soldiers were deemed sufficient to guard it. “ Tam arctum et flexuo- sum ejus fecit aditum, ut a trium aut quatuor hominum prcesidio defendi posset.” After wandering about this once celebrated and hospitable city, seeking an albergo , or inn, but without success, we applied to the Padre rettore , or prior of the convent of Dominicans , who received us with the greatest civility, and o-ave orders for our immediate reception within the sacred building: here, thanks to Providence, we found ourselves more comfortable than we had been since we quitted Palermo. It has already been observed that the English are re- ceived with greater attention by the Sicilians than other foreigners ; and this fact was fully confirmed by the conduct of the Padre , who, although upwards of seventy years of age, in- sisted upon the author occupying his bed, while his German companions were consigned to other cells, which were almost in an unfur- nished state. The ancient city of Agrigente, or Agrigentum , as may be seen by referring to the accompany- ing topographical plan, was situated about THE ANCIENT AGRIGENTUM. 83 eighteen stadia , or two miles and a quarter, from the sea, and between two rivers, the Drago and the San Blazio , anciently the Agra- gas and the Hypsa. This extensive and po- pulous city was erected upon several heights, and the most elevated of them ( Monte Camico) was occupied by their fortress or castle, to which Polybius thus alludes, speaking of the almost in- accessible nature of this rock : “ Qum ab ex- teriore parte, voragine aM atque inaecessa cir- cumdatur.” Modern Girgenti occupies this particular height. Idle following description of this celebrated city is derived from Polybius , who flourished about a century before the Christian era. “ The city of Agrigentum surpasses most other cities, not only by its fortifications, but also by the beauty and magnificence of its edi- fices, and being only eighteen stadia from the sea, it is therefore abundantly supplied with all the natural productions of the marine king- dom. Further, the city is most completely fortified both by nature and art, and its walls 'r , i r y '■ | • \ • We measured a flute of one of the columns in that part immediately under the capital, the girth of which was twenty-three inches ; this circumstance confirms the statement made by Diodorus , of their being sufficiently capacious to conceal a man, or in the words of the. his- torian, “ inserere se apte queat/’ There being so small a proportion of these gigantic ruins on the spot, we were induced to make some inquiry as to their disposal, and were informed, that the engineer to whose charge the building of the new mole at the port of Gir genii was committed, about the com- mencement of the last century, received di- rections from the Sicilian, government to use THE ANCIENT A GR I GENT U M . 97 such of the materials of this temple as would facilitate the execution of this stupendous work. This immense edifice, like other ancient mo- numents, has certainly suffered much, not only from the lapse of time and the different revo- lutions of nature, which have so frequently oc- curred in this country, but considerably more from the hands of man. With respect to the basso relievo which Diodorus mentions as having- been executed on two of the faces of this sacred temple, we could not discover the least vesti«e of them during our reiterated researches. Leaving these grand and majestic ruins, we ceased to follow the walls, and took a direction towards the interior of the ancient Agrigentum, where the first objects that attracted our notice were some fragments of a circular marble en- tablature, lying in a garden of a small villa, and which, from the redundancy and richness of their sculptured ornaments, we were inclined to consider rather of Roman than of Grecian workmanship : this entablature probably be- longed to a bath, as we observed the ruins of a circular foundation near them, together with a spring of pure water. We then proceeded in the same direction, H 98 G1 KG ENT I, and arrived before the ruins of the temple of Castor and Pollux , which i§ in such a state of decay, as to render it impossible to form any idea as to its plan ; the shafts of two of the columns are the only parts now standing, all the rest lie upon the ground, and are moul- dering imperceptibly into dust. Not far distant from the ruins of this temple are the remains of the famous Piscina , exca- vated by the Carthaginians, who were made prisoners at the battle of Hymere. This cele- brated battle, in which the Carthaginians were defeated with the loss of their whole army, was fought 480 years B. C., and took place on the same day that the three hundred Spartans successfully defended the pass of Thermopylae against the immense army under the command of Xerxes. This Piscina , according to Dio- dorus, was near a mile in circumference, and excavated to the depth of one hundred and twenty feet. It appears also from the works of the same historian, that the luxury of the inhabitants of Agrigentum had increased, at this period of time, to such an extent, that the Piscina was formed more for the purpose of keeping up THE ANCIENT AGRIGENTUM. 99 their voluptuous and extravagant mode of living', than as a means of provisioning* the city, which was the alleged cause of its esta- blishment. Independently of the immense number of fish of every kind that was bred in this lake for the tables of the rich, they also preserved every species of water-fowl, whose beautiful colours attracted so much attention, that the Piscina at last became the fashionable place of resort for all the idle loungers of the cit}'. Although time has effaced much of its interior, yet it is extremely easy, even at the present day, to trace its form and extent. The canal, which formerly supplied this artificial lake with water from a neighbouring spring, still exists, and the water, which yet runs in its original channel, is extremely serviceable in supplying the rich and luxuriant gardens which now occupy the site of this ancient Piscina. In a truly delightful situation, not far from the Piscina , is a small lake, whose water is said to be impregnated with oil ; of course, we did not fail to visit this phenomenon, and although the surface was certainly covered with a whitish greasy slime, yet we could discover none of those little globules which are ge- h 2 100 G 1 RGENT I , nerally formed by the mixing of oil and water together. W e dipped our hands in the lake, and also tasted some of the water, which neither possessed any disagreeable odour, nor was it in the least unpleasant to the taste ; it left, however, a kind of unctuousness about the hands not unlike that caused by using soap. Having terminated our survey of the an- cient Agrigentum , we feel justified in assert- ing, that it is surpassed by few cities either in respect to the beautiful and magnificent Grecian temples, and other antique monuments still existing, or the wild and romantic scenery with which it is surrounded: the circumjacent country is rural and luxuriant in the extreme, and is in so high a state of cultivation, that the soil is said to produce hundred-fold. When we reflect upon the reputed population of the ancient Agrigentum , and take into con- sideration the extent of the city and suburbs, as well as the innumerable tombs with which it is on all sides encompassed, we cannot for a moment hesitate in believing that the inha- bitants must have been very considerable. This fact is, however, proved from a census THE ANCIENT AGRIGENTUM. 101 mentioned in the writings of Empedocles , a native of this city, who flourished about 448 years B. C., in which the number is stated to have exceeded eight hundred thousand souls ; but so much has modern Sicily degenerated, that the population of Girgenti now falls short of seventeen thousand, and these are for the greater part poor, and present the most abject and mean appearance. From all that is recorded of Agrigentum , we are induced to believe that it enjoyed its ut- most height of grandeur and prosperity during that interval which elapsed between the battle of Hymere , which occurred, as before men- tioned, 480 years B. €. and its subsequent conquest by the Carthaginians 403 years before the same period. The inhabitants of this city then carried on a very considerable trade with the Africans , to whom they sold the overplus of the different natural productions of their rich and fertile territory. This epoch was that particular period to which Diodorus alludes, when he states that Agrigentum was considered one of the most happy residences in the known world, that the different environs of this delightful city were planted with fruit-trees of 102 Gilt GEM' I, every species, with vines of extraordinary height and beauty, and with an immense number of olives. We shall conclude our description of Agri- gentum by inserting some extracts from the works of Diodorus, relating to this once splendid city, and also some remarks upon the great luxury of its former inhabitants. “ Nothing denotes more strongly the luxury of the Agrigentines , and their taste for plea- sure, than the tombs or monuments erected to those horses who had gained the prize at the course : Timceus assures us that he had seen many of those monuments. In the ninety- second Olympiade , or about 408 years B. C. Jhoccvnete, a native of this city, having gained one of the prizes at Olympus , made, on his re- turn, a triumphal entry into the city upon a car, accompanied by a most splendid retinue of other cars. “ I he Agrigentines educated their infants in a manner which bordered much upon effe- minacy ; they provided them with habits of an extraordinary fine quality ornamented with I - |f £ ANCIENT A (« K I (« E N I UM. 10J gold, and even furnished their toilettes with caskets of jewels. “ The richest among the A grig entities these times was Gelias , who had in Ins house many apartments reserved for such strangers as visited the city : he retained also many ser- vants at his door, whose business it was to invite such persons to enter and partake of their master’s generosity. Many other citizens followed the same profuse hospitality, and ic- ceived strangers with benevolence and free- dom : it is this circumstance which caused Empedocles , when speaking of Agngentum , to exclaim, ‘ To every navigator a happy and faithful port !’ “ Polyclite, in his history, gives a description of a cave in the house of Gelias , which he had himself seen: he says there were in this cave three hundred tuns excavated out of the natural stone, and each contained one hun- dred urns, always filled with wine. He also says that Gelias , a man of the most in- estimable character, but of very short and slender stature, was sent as ambassador to the city of Cerdori/yine , when at his first audient e in the assembly, the deputies began to smile, 104 girgenti , and could not comprehend how a man said to be porsessed of so high a reputation should have a countenance and figure so common : this injudicious treatment Gelias immediately lesented, by saying, that the Agrigentines sent men handsome and well made to illustrious cities, but to those who had not attained any distinction they chose ambassadors like unto himself. “ This Gelias was not the only rich man in Agrigentumj Antisthenes , surnamed the Rho- dian, while celebrating the nuptials of his daughter, treated the citizens, and caused the bride to be followed by eight hundred chariots: this equipage was even augmented by a con- sidei able number of cavaliers. He also caused the altars of the gods in the temples, and all those which popular devotion had raised in the sti eets, to be loaded with wood 5 in like manner he furnished those citizens who occupied the lower apartments with wood and cuttings of vine, requesting that they would set fire to the same in the various streets the instant they beheld a light in the citadel. This order being carried into execution, the bride then put her- self in motion, preceded by an infinite number of persons who carried flambeaux in their THE ANCIENT AGRIGENTUM. 105 hands : in this way the city became instanta- neously illuminated during the middle of the night, and neither the streets nor places were able to contain the multitude of persons drawn together to view this superb spectacle.” CHAPTER XII. The Volcano of Macaluba. During our residence at Girgenti we heard much conversation respecting the existence of a volcano, which emitted earth and water, or, in the language of the country, a species of fango , situated about six miles inland, upon the summit of a mountain named Macaluba : we accordingly visited this singular pheno- menon, of which neither Brydone nor Swinburne make mention. Whether the name of volcano belongs ex- clusively to those mountains which emit fire, or whether it includes all those formed by their own explosions, we shall not now discuss : we shall, however, venture to apply the appellation to this wonderful phenomenon ; for, under whatever name it is described, the subject itself will neither become the less singular, nor the less interesting. THE VOLCANO OF MACALUBA. 107 This volcano of air, if we may so express ourselves, whose effects resemble those which have fire as their principal agent, has its moments of calmness as well as those of great fermentation and labour ; it produces, too, like other volcanos, earthquakes, subterraneous thunder, and violent eruptions ; which last have, at times, thrown the matter so emitted more than one hundred feet above the summit of the craters. The base of Macaluba is nearly circular, and its height is about two hundred and fifty feet, taken from a valley which surrounds it: this valley is, however, considerably elevated above the level of the sea. Its summit is about half a mile in circumference, and terminated by a plain presenting rather a convex surface ; it is besides extremely steril. On this summit are a considerable number of little conic heights, the largest of which may be about nine feet in diameter ; and on the highest part of these cones, which are in general under five feet, are craters, whose depth we were unable to ascertain, being unprovided with a plumb-line, or any other con- trivance by which such a purpose could be ef- fected. The soil appeared externally to be composed of clay, rather dry and cracked, and 108 THE VOLCANO OF MACALUBA. the hollow sepulchral noise caused by the ac- tion of walking excited our most serious at- tention, and reminded us that in all probability we were then immediately over an immense gulf of liquid mud, separated only by a thin covering of clay. The interior of the craters is moist, and out of which there constantly issues a species of brown diluted clay, which, after reaching the height of the lips or highest part, forms itself into little demi-globules ; a few moments after this formation has taken place, these globules break, and the confined air which they re- tained dispels itself ; the diluted clay then runs down the flanks of these heights, and extends itself more or less on every side. Upon in- troducing a pole about twelve feet long into several of the craters, we found it produced a kind of noise not unlike that of distant thun- der : we observed upwards of one hundred and fifty of these craters in full action, besides many which had ceased to throw up the argillaceous matter, and our cicerone informed us that their number were continually varying, some, as he said, “ dying away, and others as constantly breaking forth/' THE VOLCANO OF M&CALUtiA. 109 It is generally believed, that in all volcanic eruptions tire acts as the principal agent : in this of Macaluba , however, the result is very different; for after minute examination, not only on the summit, but round the sides and base, we could perceive no trace of any such element having been concerned either in the formation or working of this surprising pro- duction of nature ; neither could we discover the least particle of any matter that had under- gone the action of tire. We next immersed our thermometer in several of the craters, na- turally expecting to find the temperature much higher than in the open air; but here also we found ourselves greatly deceived, the re- verse being the result of the experiment. The thermometer so immersed, about nine o’clock in the morning, stood at 64° according to Fahrenheit ; but on being exposed to the at- mosphere, it immediately rose to 72° : after this experiment, we no longer sought the ig- neous element. The name Macaluba, by which this moun- tain is known, is of Arabian extraction, the word in that language signifying overthrowing. The way from Girgenti to Macaluba lies not 110 THE VOLCANO OF MACALUBA. through towns and villages, but across sterif mountains surrounded with the wildest and most romantic scenery, presenting views ex- tremely grand and beautiful. So ill cultivated and deserted, however, was this particular district, that in our excursion we did not per- ceive even a solitary cottage ; a country which, in former times, was so abundantly fertile, and so richly cultivated, that it then received the flattering appellation of “ the granary of an- cient j Rome” CHAPTER XIII. Favara — Canigatti — Caltanisetta — - Castro Gio- vanni^ the ancient Enna. We departed from Girgenti at daybreak on the morning of the 4th of May, and proceeded through a fine country to Favara , and thence to Canigatti , at which place we remained and took some refreshment. The only object of curiosity here is a collection of armour, about the time of Count Roger , which is preserved in the castle. The town, although presenting a mean and dejected appearance, is nevertheless populous, containing upwards of eighteen thou- sand inhabitants : and during our perambula- tion through it, we were followed, as had been the case in most other inland towns, by a num- ber of curious and idle persons, who seemed to watch our very words and actions. From Canigatti we continued our journey 112 CALTANISETTA. through an equally well cultivated country, occupied by orchards, vineyards, and corn- fields ; even the hedges on each side wore an extremely luxuriant appearance, and frequently presented the aloe, fig, vine, almond, and olive, intermingled together. After traversing for some miles a country of this description, we arrived at Caltanisetta ; it was nine o’clock, and we were obliged to take up our quarters at the common osteria, there being no such esta- blishment as an albergo or inn for the accom- modation of travellers, although a paese con- taining near twenty thousand inhabitants. We rose, according to our usual custom, early in the morning, and walking about the environs of the town, which is situated upon rising ground, enjoyed some extensive views of the surrounding country. We also vi- sited the church attached to the convent of Benedictines , which certainly merits observa- tion ; it was erected about the period when the Saracens were in possession of the island, and consequently partakes of their particular style of architecture. A circumstance highly gratifying to the feel- ings of an Englishman presented itself to our CASTRO GIOVANNI. 113 notice while walking through the fair held in this town, in which we observed, that almost all the goods exposed for sale in the different stalls and shops were of British manufacture. After making our colazione , we quitted Cal- tanisetta , and proceeded for about five miles through a country every where presenting views truly rural and romantic. We then ascended, and continued for some time along’ a ridge of high mountains, following the direction of their various sinuosities : and after having crossed this stupendous chain, we found our- selves in an extensive valley, at the further ex- tremity of which stood Castro Giovanni , the ancient Enna , with its alpine summit enveloped in the clouds. Traversing this fruitful valley, we crossed and re-crossed several times the river Salsa , anciently the Hymera. Having at length reached the foot of this mountain, we began ascending it by an ex- tremely difficult and dangerous pathway ; the occasional intervening of rugged parts of the mountain, together with the circumstance of its then raining, presented so many obstacles to our progress, as induced us to descend from our faithful mules. Notwithstanding*, however, i 114 CASTRO GIOVANNI, the confidence we felt, we did not succeed, as seamen call it, “in making much way;” and the muleteer, well knowing the cause of our difficulty, observed, that by remounting we should not only perform our journey with more ease and facility, but in a much shorter period : we accordingly resumed our seats, and suc- ceeded in gaining the summit of this majestic mountain. The varied and diversified views during the whole of the ascent were in the highest degree romantic, wild, and beautiful. On approaching Castro Giovanni , we were led to imagine, from external appearances, that we were upon the eve of entering an agreeable and pleasant village ; but, alas ! the anticipation was far from being realised, for it eventually turned out to be the most miserable ill-looking town we had yet seen in Sicily. Upon inquiring of the guide as to what albergo he intended proceeding to, he candidly replied, that, as so few travellers were in the habit of visiting this mountain, there was certainly no establishment for the reception of those who possessed that curiosity, but he would endea- vour to find an asylum where we might remain for the night. We, therefore, amidst the rain which now fell in torrents, wandered about THE ANCIENT ENNA. 115 lor some time unsuccessfully, but ultimately gained admittance into a mean and wretched hovel, where we were certainly enabled to dry our apparel, and also to obtain a little supply of provisions, of which we stood much in need. The pitiless storm continued to rage during the greater part of the night, it then ceased, and on the following morning we rose with the lark, and witnessed from this high region the gradual and silent approach of the fair Aurora opening with her rosy fingers the gates of the east, and pouring out the morning dew upon the face of the earth. The weather was now calm and serene, accompanied with that de- lightful azure sky for which the Mediterranean has from time immemorial been so much ce- lebrated, and which enabled us to enjoy a range of the most delightful and most ex- tensive prospects. The summit of this majestic mountain forms an even plain, about five miles in circumference. The atmosphere upon this elevated spot is about 21° below that of the plains. Castro Giovanni occupies the site of the an- cient Enna, which, according to the opinion CASTRO GIOVANNI, 116 of the ancients, was the residence of Ceres, ) daughter of Saturn and Cybele , and who was placed in the rank of immortals for having originally tauglit man the useful art of agii- culture : it is however certain that impiove- ments in the cultivation of the earth first took place in Sicily , at the time when it w as considered as being' under the immediate pro- tection of this divinity. Enna , in former ages, enjoyed a great degree of celebrity, not only from the splendid magnificence displayed in its temples and other public edifices, but also from the great wealth possessed by the in- habitants. Several of the most authentic historians of antiquity, Diodorus , Livy , and more especially Cicero , have left in their writings ample de- scriptions of this once celebrated city. Livy mentions that Enna was erected upon the summit of a very high mountain, quite in- sulated, and on all sides extremely steep : it is thus that he emphatically describes its situa- tion: “In excelso loco et prserupto undique sita, inexpugnabilis est.” Castro Giovanni is, at the present period, con- sidered almost impregnable : its elevation is THE ANCIENT ENNA. 117 upwards of four thousand feet above the level of the sea, and the approaches on all sides are extremely difficult. The inhabitants, notwith- standing - its height, enjoy a great accommoda- tion in possessing several copious springs of pure and excellent water, and, what is still more extraordinary, there exists a beautiful lake situated close to the town. Diodorus observes upon this subject, that “ near Enna is a lake, whose banks are sprinkled with violets and other aromatic flowers, which very sensibly impregnate the air.” The incident that most contributed to in- crease the veneration that the ancients enter- tained for Enna , was the belief which then prevailed, that it was the birthplace of the goddess Ceres , and that the rape of Proserpine , her fair daughter, occurred in the immediate vicinity. This event formed one of the most undoubted facts in Pagan mythology, and has been the subject of an immense number of compositions, as well by the ancients as the moderns, in basso-relievo, cameo, intaglio, and painting. No author has been more correct in de- lineating the principal features of Enna than 118 CASTRO GIOVANNI, Cicero. The following details, extracted from his works, will no doubt be perused with pleasure. “ The most ancient traditions, the writings of the Greeks , and a crowd of monuments, attest that Sicily was from time immemorial consecrated to Ceres and Proserpine : other people refuse not to believe ; but as to the Si- cilians, they entertain so intimate a persuasion, that they conceive this faith inherent in their minds, and that it is a sentiment with which they are born. They also firmly believe, that it is to Ceres and her daughter Proserpine they are indebted for fruit : they gave to the daughter the name of Proserpine , after a wood near Enna. This city is situated in the centre of Sicily, and is hence called Umbilicus Sicilian; it is built upon a mountain greatly elevated, and absolutely insulated ; and there is upon the summit an even plain, watered with various springs : it is steep on all sides, consequently the access is rendered very difficult. “ They render a particular worship in Sicily to the Ennean Ceres, and not only the inha- bitants of this country, but even those of other nations, entertain for the goddess the I II E A \ C 1 1' NT E N N A . 1 19 greatest veneration : if we find that a temple has been erected at Athens, in gratitude for her having remained there some time, ami taught them the art of agriculture, with how much more zeal ought they not to cele- brate her worship in the place which gave her birth. We know that in the most critical circumstances of the Roman republic, after the death of Tiberius Gracchus , when the greatest dangers seemed on the eve of breaking forth, the consuls, P. Mutius and L. Calphurnius , were directed by the conscript lathers to consult the book of the Sybils , whence they were instructed to present themselves be- fore Ceres ; and, although there was a very superb temple dedicated to this goddess in Rome , the senate, nevertheless, sent ten de- puties to that of E?ina, where the worship of this deity was so much revered, and had been so long consecrated by antiquity, that in going there, they thought less of presenting them- selves in the temple than before the goddess herself.” We find in Diodorus a magnificent descrip- tion of the temple of Enna , which, according to this historian, was constructed by Gelon , tyrant of Syracusa. They preserved within this sacred 120 CASTRO GIOVANNI, edifice a colossal statue of Ceres in marble, and another in bronze, of very great an- tiquity : in the vestibule there was likewise a statue of the goddess, holding in one hand the image of Victory. There is no doubt that the two first statues were those which Cicero al- ludes to as being two chefs -cT oeuvre of the greatest statuaries of antiquity ; and which were of a proportion so elevated, that their grandeur protected them from falling into the hands of the rapacious Verres , who, however, took away the image of Victory , notwithstand- ing the representations of the then priests of Ceres , and the cries of the inhabitants. The Roman orator, alluding to this impious sacrilege, says, “ How can he sustain the re- cital of these impieties, when myself, who only recal the event, am so much moved, that I am seized with horror ? for the idea of this sacred temple, of the solemnity of the place, and of the particular worship there offered, presents itself in vivid colours before my eyes. The day on which I entered Enna, the priests of Ceres came to meet me with their mitres and crowns of vervain, accompanied by the prin- cipal citizens; and during the time that 1 harangued them, it was not only with tears THE ANCIENT ENNA. 121 they were moved. 1 heard them neither com- plain of the tyranny of Verves , of the loss of their property, nor of his unjust judgments ; they only demanded that the punishment of the praetor should be left to the divinity Ceres , the antiquity of her worship, and the sanctity of her temple : at last their grief became so general, that they exclaimed, another Pluto had visited Enna, not only to possess Proserpine , but also to carry off Ceres herself!” We visited the castle, which appeared of Roman origin, and, although decaying very fast, is yet deemed sufficiently strong to serve as a place of confinement for state pri- soners. After having passed through several of the wards, we ascended the battlements, and were highly gratified with the extensive and grand prospects that presented them- selves on every side. We next proceeded to the site of the celebrated temple of Ceres , of which splendid edifice there now remains only a large square stone, supposed to have formed part of the original altar of this once mag- nificent building. CHAPTER XIV. Lake of Proserpine — Piazza — Calatagirone — Modica . We quitted Castro Giovanni willingly, not only on account of departing from a place where we had experienced so many inconveniences, but with imaginations highly elated in the hope of soon arriving in that valley where the celebrated lake of Proserpine is situated. The pathway by which we descended from the mountain was, if possible, more steep and difficult than that by which it had been pre- viously approached on the opposite side. After having reached the bottom, our way lay through a romantic valley, which, after tra- versing for about five miles, we beheld the so much desired lake, opening before us in a manner truly picturesque, decked with all its beauties, real as well as poetical. This lake still retains its original name of Proserpine , and is about four miles in circum- LAKE OF PROSERPINE. 123 ference ; the surrounding banks rise gradually into eminences covered with luxuriant foliage, and, although not realizing the poetic descrip- tion of the ancient writers, it nevertheless pre- sents some charming prospects : the banks are likewise clothed with aromatic flowers and shrubs. Cicero , referring to this enchanting neigh- bourhood, says, “ Not far distant from Entia is a lake, whose banks are covered with aro- matic flowers, and which is almost concealed by surrounding woods ; and near its holders is an extremely profound grotto, from whence it is said Pluto issued with his car when he forcibly conveyed Proserpine to the infernal regions: in fact, it may be asserted, that no spot could more effectually bring to the ima- gination the recollection of such a circum- stance.” Ovid , likewise alluding to this celebrated lake, thus expresses himself: Sylva coronat aquas, cingens latus omne ; suisque Frondibus, ut velo, Phoebeos submovet ignes. Frigora dant rami, Tyrios humus humida flores. Perpetuum ver est. 124 LAKE OF PROSERPINE. A wood crowns the lake, surrounding it on every side, and bears off as with a veil the scorching heat of Phoebus. The boughs yield a refreshing shade, and the moist ground is enamelled with flowers. Perpetual spring. Ovid, Met. Lib. 5. Our great epic Milton , in his noble picture of the garden of Eden , also alludes to the my- thological story of the rape of Proserpine in the following beautiful lines : “ Not that fair field Of Enna, where Proserpine gathering flowers. Herself a fairer flower, by gloomy Dis Was gather’d, which cost Ceres all that pain To seek her thro’ the world.” Paradise Lost, Book IV. Having gratified ourselves with admiring this enchanting spot, of which a faint idea is given in the accompanying view, we next vi- sited the grotto alluded to by Cicero, which most certainly presents an extremely gloomv appearance. We now bade adieu to Proserpine and her beloved Cyane , and proceeded over a country composed alternately of hill and dale, till we' arrived in the neighbourhood of Piazza. On crossing one of those rural vales, we beheld a PMOSEIRPIWE . PIAZZA. 125 tine majestic eagle near a lonely cot, apparently watching' some tame fowls: as our way lay by the cottage, we consequently disturbed this monarch of the air, who, soaring leisurely away, alighted upon some rising ground im- mediately before us : here we again observed him for some time pompously treading the luxuriant carpet of nature. If the general appearance and beauty of the country in the vicinity of the ancient K?uui fall short of the fancied idea which is formed from reading the descriptions of the writers of an- tiquity ; if the fertility, although great, as- similate not with that which is expected, we. can at least assert, and with great confidence, that the environs of Piazza surpass every thing possible to imagine, in abundance as well as fertility. Piazza is built upon an eminence quite in- sulated. There is nothing remarkable in the buildings, either public or private ; but the town very justly prides itself on the lichness of its territory and the great beauty of the con- tiguous country, every kind of vegetation thriving upon this fertile spot : it is surrounded on all sides by extremely fruitful valleys, in 126 PIAZZA. which vegetables of every kind are almost spontaneously produced, not only in sufficient quantities to supply the inhabitants, but also enough to enable them to carry on a lucrative trade with several neighbouring cities less fa- voured by nature. In these rurally interspersed valleys are ftiany nut groves, which occupy situations contiguous to the numerous rivulets in the neighbourhood. These groves form charming promenades for the inhabitants of Piazza , not only on account of their freshness, but ot the cool shady retreat which they offer, even during the sultry heat of the meridian sun. The gatden most worthy of remark is that attached to the old Capuchin convent : art has succeeded in this delightful retreat in com- bining’ all that could be expected from nature, if embellished in her most luxuriant and en- chanting forms. It is not in the style of an English garden, much less in that of a French one ; nothing has been done by system, no re- gular plan has been adopted ; they have only encouraged the circulation of the water, the growth of the trees, the multiplication of the various plants, and the garden has been ef- PIAZZA. 327 feetually made: fruit-trees of almost every species are intermingled with the majestic oak, the mountain pine, the slender poplar, and the stately cypress, while the vines group and en- twine themselves round the nut and the orange, and form festoons in passing from one to the other. Every thing within this enchanting spot is in apparent confusion, yet every thing is perfectly united, because nature is harmonious in all her works, whenever left to follow her own course. The eye reposes itself agreeably in every part of this delicious garden ; it is no- where fatigued either by the monotony of form or the uniformity of shadow : the heat is tem- pered by the introduction of water, here elevat- ing itself in fountains, there falling in cascades, and every where circulating in serpentine rills; to these natural and artificial beauties may be added the number of nightingales, whose sweet and melodious notes render this delightful re- treat a terrestrial paradise. The country in the vicinity of Piazza , besides corn, produces also many other productions equally valuable : flax and hemp are cultivated with success, and also a vast quantity of fruit : 128 PIAZZA. the nut-trees are well attended to, and the vines and olives are of a good quality, and in great abundance. After quitting' Piazza , we proceeded for some miles through a richly-cultivated country to Calatagirone , one of the most populous and well-built inland towns in Sicily ; and we were so fortunate as to meet with a decent osteria , situated in the market-place, which afforded us tolerably good accommodation ; in fact, much better than we had met with since leaving Pa- lermo. Calatagirone is situated, like most Sicilian towns, upon an insulated eminence, and over- looks an extensive tract of country. We re- mained in this place more for the purpose of recruiting ourselves, than for any thing re- markable that it contained; even the churches are very indifferent. In the course of our per- ambulation, perceiving some musicians exercis- ing their profession at the entrance of a church attached to a female convent, and the entrance itself decorated with artificial flowers, we were induced to enter, when we found the church also ornamented in a similar manner. CALATAGIRONE. 129 One of the most holy and religious fathers who was in attendance upon the convent, per- ceiving we were foreigners, immediately ap- proached, and explained to us the particulars of the ceremony upon the eve of taking place within this sacred building. He began by stating that two young ladies, daughters of a nobleman, having finished their novitiate, were to take the veil on the succeeding morning, and that it was the custom to decorate the church and employ music on the preceding day, in order to welcome the friends of the novitiates who came at that solemn and in- teresting moment to converse with and finally to bid them adieu. These two unfortunate ladies, if w e may be allowed so to express our- selves, occupied the sacristy, separated by lat- tice-work only from the body of the church ; and it was through this they discoursed with their friends. The sacristy was also embel- lished with a degree of splendour almost ap- proaching eastern magnificence, and the no- vitiates were most splendidly and elegantly attired, and seemed as if they were upon the point of joining their future husbands at the marriage table: to this table, indeed, they were certainly to be conducted, but it was to the church they w ere to be united. 130 CALATAGIRONE. It is thus that the illusive welfare of the church, in drawing to itself the fairest and most beautiful females, has in part depo- pulated this fruitful and once well-peopled island ; and, if this destructive and baneful policy is still permitted to make those gigantic strides which it has for some years been taking, it will finally accomplish that which it has so effectually begun, namely, the ruin of the country. Generally speaking, a very con- siderable part of the population, some accounts say an eighth, but our opinion, deduced from personal observation, and from information derived from many members of the different religious orders, fix it at about one-sixteenth, is attached to the service of the church, which certainly is a sufficient reason why the in- habitants of the whole island of Sicily at the present day fall short of the number formerly contained within the walls of one of its ancient cities. Chance, or rather the young and beautiful females who were soon to be eternally immured within these sacred walls, were the cause of our visiting the church several times during the day : we felt so much interest for the fate of those innocent and lovely beings, who were in RAGUSA. 131 all probability forced by their unnatural pa- rents to enter the religious order, that, if at that particular moment any thing had pre- sented itself, which could, in the slightest de- gree, have been instrumental towards effecting their escape, we should enthusiastically have embraced it, although all the horrors of the most holy office, the Inquisition, would have followed close upon our footsteps. We set off from Calatagirone early in the morning, and passed through a fertile and richly-cultivated plain : our way lay close to a wood of cork-trees, and we passed the Durillo , a small river, three times. We now ascended an extremely high chain of mountains, upon whose summit stood Chiaramonte , where we re- mained a short time and took some refresh- ment. After quitting this place, our road still lay for miles upon the mountain heights, which every where presented a stony, steril, and de- serted appearance, until we arrived at the valley of Ragusa. This valley is very strait, with sides extremely rugged and steep ; a river of the same name runs through it, whose banks are overgrown and almost concealed with the k 2 132 MODICA. most luxuriant and beautiful foliage, and its appearance altogether was certainly romantic in the highest degree. Leaving the valley of Ragusa , we traversed a country possessing the same stony and steril appearance, and ultimately reached Modica, which is likewise situated in a strait and steep valley. As a matter of course, we proceeded, after our long and inconvenient journey, im- mediately to the only osteria the town could boast, which was wretched and dirty in the extreme ; even the way to our chamber lay through one previously occupied by a mother pig and her young progeny. Our beds were composed of soiled chopped straw, which was strewed upon hurdles, for the purpose of keep- ing our weary bones from the cold tile paving, and preserving us in some measure from the vermin, with which the room, literally speak- ing, swarmed. CHAPTER XV. Valley of Ispica — No to. On quitting Modica we proceeded towards the valley of Ispica , through a country wholly co- vered with stones ; and some small rain, or rather a species of heavy dew having fallen during the night, our journey over such un- frequented mountain tracks was, of course, rendered extremely difficult. Our mules, al- though the best animals for this kind of tra- velling, having frequently stumbled, it was deemed more prudent to alight and walk ; we however had not gone more than fifty paces before we ourselves fell, which circumstance induced us to remount, being then perfectly convinced that the feet of those animals were much safer than our own. After having passed over some miles of this stony and deserted country, we approached the brink of a deep aad narrow valley, whose appearance was as 134 ISPICA. fruitful and luxuriant as the country through which we had passed was wild and uncul- tivated. After descending into this romantic valley by means of an extremely steep path, we were highly gratified with that grand and mag- nificent, nay, almost alpine scenery, which pre- sented itself on every side. We next entered the numerous chambers excavated in the rocks forming the sides of this interesting and natural recess, and which were in many places from eight to ten stories in height: these subter- raneous retreats were about twenty feet in length, eight in width, and seven in height. Opposite the door in most of them we observed a kind of niche, in which was a ring chiseled out of the natural stone, in all probability for the purpose of attaching a goat, or some other domestic animal ; and near the entrance was a basin likewise formed in the stone. Imme- diately above the entrance was a bevilled open- ing through the external face or wall, ap- parently made for the introduction of light and air Avhen these gloomy caves were closed ; and in almost all the chambers we discovered a recess in one of the sides about six feet long and four wide, which evidently served the an- ISPICA. 135 cient inhabitants of these gloomy grottos as their place of rest. In several of these chambers were various rings in the walls, which appeared to have been made for the purpose of suspending dif- ferent utensils; while in others were wide grooves worked in the stone to serve in lieu of shelves. We passed through upwards of three miles of this extraordinary valley always find- ing the same excavations, in the same order, and under the same form ; some, however, had a second chamber excavated behind the first, while in others we observed a round opening, by which a communication was preserved with the floor immediately above. In this opening were holes, apparently made for the insertion of steps, in order more easily to ascend and descend from one to the other. We also discovered many tombs excavated out of the natural stone, and in the interior of them were fragments of bones almost in a state of petrefaction, as well as various pieces of vases composed of a red-coloured earth. The immense number of chambers existing in this valley, induce most persons to suppose 136 ISPICA. that it had originally been inhabited by a nu- merous colony. History, indeed, informs us, that the Lestrigons and Sicanians were the first inhabitants of Sicily : the Lestrigons have been described as men of gigantic stature, whose origin was utterly unknown ; and the Sicanians as a colony originally from the southern coast of Spain. We likewise learn from the same source, that they were unceasingly disputing the possession of the fertile and abundant plains of Lentini , and the country in the immediate vicinity of Etna : at length the Sicanians were obliged to yield, and the Lestrigons chased them away towards the south. Ispica is situ- ated precisely in this direction, when con- sidered topographically with respect to Etna , and it was therefore in all probability to this valley that they retired. The genius of man naturally leads him, not only to imitate that which he has at any time seen, but also to seek, by every possible means, to possess those comforts of life to which he has at any former period been accustomed ; for instance, when an European colony pro- ceeds into a desert country, they immediately set about constructing houses more or less re- sembling those in which they were born, in ISPICA. 137 preference to residing in the open air. Ought we not then to refer the formation of these chambers to that period of antiquity, when the inhabitants of Sicily consisted wholly of pastors and shepherds ? The circumstance of finding many Sicilian peasants still inhabiting these rude excava- tions astonished us greatly : their appearance seemed as wild and savage as ever their an- cestors could have been ; they lived apparently in the same manner upon milk, fruit, and ve- getables, the natural productions of this fruit- ful spot. They kept their goats in the same situation, and attached to the same rings ; they rested in the same places, and seemed fright- ened at the approach of travellers : in fact, the children could not have expressed more anxiety, or have been more alarmed, if wild beasts had entered their peaceful and retired abode, than they were in seeing strangers enter the chambers and examine this most extraor- dinary valley. A slight sketch of part of this truly romantic valley is here introduced, for the purpose of more fully illustrating what has been said on the subject. After spending nearly the whole day in 138 NOTO. this extremely interesting place, we next pro- ceeded through a country still as stony and un- cultivated as that which we had just traversed. We arrived, however, early in the evening at Noto , the capital of one of three divisions of Sicily , where we must have remained during the night in the street, or in other words, in an osteria presenting the most wretched appear- ance, had it not been for the polite attention of a nobleman, who kindly introduced us to the padre retiore of the convent of Dominicans. Noto is situated upon an eminence over- looking a richly-cultivated valley of the same name ; the town was built about one hundred and fifty years since, after the former city, which stood a few miles off upon an eminence still more elevated, was completely destroyed by an earthquake. The principal buildings which embellish this city, such as the palaces, convents, and churches, are designed with more taste than any we had then seen, and strictly after the Grecian style of architecture. Our principal object in remaining here was for the purpose of viewing the celebrated mu- seum of Don Antonio Astuto , Baron of Far- gione. This museum contains a most superb NO TO. 139 series of Greco Siculo medallions, esteemed the most considerable and most complete existing at the present day ; of Grecian coins and me- dals ; of those of Rome previously to the esta- blishment of consuls; of all the consular families ; and a valuable collection of the Roman emperors. There are besides numerous Saracenic coins, a splendid set of the kings and queens of Sicily from the expulsion of the Sa- racens to the present period ; and also an ex- tensive series of the medals of the popes, from the time of Martin the fifth. The various me- dallions and coins in this magnificent collection exceed six thousand, and are in an excellent state of preservation. This museum likewise contains several an- tique busts, among which are two extremely fine, of Plato and Socrates , as well as many statues and tripods. We were highly entertained also in looking over the superb collection illustrat- ing the natural history of Sicily, including the diversified lava of Etna , and the Lipari isles. The baron was extremely civil and polite, and devoted the whole day in explaining the medal- lions, coins, and antiquities, within his justly celebrated museum. 140 NOTO. During our stay in this town we were invited to an evening conversazione at the palace of the nobleman previously alluded to, which of course we accepted : from the conversation that passed, it soon appeared that he was a great admirer of the principles of the English constitution ; and that about seven years since, he had taken an active part in endeavouring to introduce the same, with some few altera- tions, into his native country. The attempt, for a time, partially succeeded, and the pa- triotic party had even gone so far as to have formed a representative assembly, something resembling our House of Commons; but in consequence of the then sudden removal of the English troops to the south of Spain, their exertions which, up to this period, had been secretly supported by the English commandant, entirely failed, and most of those noblemen and gentlemen who had shewn themselves zealous in effecting so desirable an alteration in their ill-digested form of government, were immediately ordered to quit Palermo , and re- tire to their country seats. Such had been the fate of this truly patriotic nobleman, whose hospitality was attentive even to our domestic comfort, and who sent one of his servants to NOTO. 141 attend upon us during’ our stay in the convent, as well as furnished us with wine made from grapes, the produce of his own estates : this wine was of a light red colour, and possessed a most delicious flavour, not unlike that of Burgundy. The Dominican convent, in which we had been so kindly received, was well built, very extensive, and possessed, in a great degree, more the splendid appearance of a palace than of an humble and religious building. We en- joyed several conversations with the prior and other members of the establishment, who were intelligent sensible men ; and who behaved in the most friendly and polite manner during our short residence within their sacred walls. We quitted No to early in the morning, and proceeded for a few miles along a good road to Avolo , a pleasant village situated near the sea ; where our attention was attracted by two very fine palm-trees which ornamented the gardens of an elegant villa. We then continued along a most delightful plain, occasionally interspersed with rural cottages spread amidst its surround- ing groves of almonds and vineyards, till we came to the river Gallo , the banks of which 142 NOTO. presented an appearance extremely beautiful, being lined with the oleander in full blossom, and with numerous aromatic plants, whose delicious odour impregnated the very atmo- sphere. After traversing this plain, we approached the Anapus , and ultimately entered the once splendid and magnificent Syracusa. We then proceeded to the locanda nobile , situated in one of the principal streets, which became our head- quarters during the period we remained within this enchanting city. CHAPTER XVI. SYRACUSA. General Description of the ancient City by Cicero — Fountain of Arethusa — Temple of Minerva — Temple of Diana — Castle — Amphitheatre — Theatre. The first object that attracted our attention in approaching the magnificent Syracusa was the immense port, whose shores we traversed pre- viously to entering the city, and which brought to our recollection the mighty actions that had taken place in its immediate neighbourhood, during the successive struggles which had oc- curred between the inhabitants of Syracusa , Athens , Rome , and Carthage. Before we proceed to any detailed descrip- tions, we shall venture to indulge in a brief sketch of the topography of Syracusa and its 144 SYRACUSA. vicinity, which may serve to illustrate our sub- sequent account of this famed city *. * Explanation of the accompanying Plan . A. Sinus Syracusanus, or the great port. B. Portus Marmoreus, or the lesser port. C. Ortygia. D. Neapolis. E. Epipolce. F. Tyche. G. Acradina. No. 1. The rock Plemmyrium. 2. Remains of the temple of Jupiter. 3. Fountain of Cyane, in whose stream the Papyrus plant is spontaneously produced. 4. River Anapus. 5. Arsenal. 6. Fountain of Arethusa. 7. The castle. 8. The chain which extended across the entrance from the castle to Plemmyrium. 9. Remains of the temple of Minerva , now the ca- thedral. J 0. Remains of the temple of Diana. 11. Amphitheatre. 12. Theatre. 13. Street of tombs. 14. Latomix, in which the grotto, commonly called the ear of Dionysius, is situated. 15. Catacombs. 16. Remains of the ancient cloaca, or sewers. SYRACUSA. 145 From the description of ancient authors, and more especially of Cicer'o , there can he little doubt that Syracusa was one of the most pow- erful cities of antiquity : it was divided into four quarters, entirely differing' from each other, and separated by elevated walls. The following- extracts from the orations of Cicero bear even now such evident marks of correct- ness, as induce us to commence our account by their insertion. “It has been often reported, that Syracusa is the largest and most magnificent city in Greece ; and what has been said, Oh ! conscript fathers, is perfectly true. On whatever side the city is approached, it presents not only an appearance strongly fortified, but also ex- tremely beautiful. The two ports are almost inclosed by their natural situation, and al- though the union of their waters forms the island, yet the communication with the city is 17 . Latomice , now the garden of the convent of Cap ti- chins. 18 . Aqueduct. 19. Remains of a castle. 20. Latomice of Tyche. 21. The fortress Euryale. 22. Wall erected during the reign of Dionysius. L 146 SYRACUSA. maintained by means of a bridge thrown across this strait. It is a city so extended, that it may be said to be composed of four ; the first, named Ortygia , is that island above mentioned, which not only incloses the ports and advances into the sea, but forms the entrance to each of them ; it is the part where the palace inhabited by Hiero is situated, and which building now forms the residence of the Roman praetor. It contains many temples, but principally two of very superior beauty, the one consecrated to Diana , and the other, which, previously to the arrival of Ferres, was very much ornamented, to Minerva. At the extremity of this island is a fountain of pure spring water, which bears the name of Arethusa: it is of considerable extent, and contains a great number of fish : this fountain would be covered with the waves of the sea, if they were not prevented by the erection of a stone wall. “ The second part of Syracusa is called Acradina : this division contains a spacious square, fine galleries, a prytaneum , a mag- nificent hall for the meetings of the council, a superb temple dedicated to the Olympic Jove , and a very large street running from one end to the other, with many transverse streets, SYRACUSA. 147 in which the various private houses are si- tuated. “ The third division, Tyche , encloses within its circuit an ancient temple consecrated to Fortune , many other sacred buildings, and an immense gymnasium : this quarter is by far the most populous. “ The fourth, or remaining division of the city, because it was the last built, is called Neapolis : there is upon the heights a very large theatre, two superb temples, the one de- dicated to Ceres , the other to Proserpine , and a grand and beautiful statue of Apollo , surnamed the Tenemite It hence appears, that the ancient Syracusa consisted of four divisions, whose names were Orlygia , Acradina , Tyche , and Neapolis . Or- tygia comprehended the island situated at the entrance to the ports, and was always considered as the fortress : the residences of their princes were also in this quarter. Acradina was certainly the most considerable, and also the most mag- nificent in regard to public buildings. Tyche , so named from a temple dedicated to Fortune , was the most populous ; and lastly, Neapolis , l 2 148 SYRACUSA. which was very extensive, and formed the western extremity of the city. The boundary of the ancient walls formed a circuit, according to Strabo , of one hundred and eighty stadia , or twenty-two miles and a half, including the Epipolce, a suburb constructed to the westward of the Neapolis , upon a spot that not only overlooked, but commanded the whole city. The Epipolce was terminated by an almost impregnable fortress, called Eury- ale, which is mentioned by many of the an- cient historians, and more especially by Livy, who, in his account of the siege of Syracusa by the Romans , says, “ that after Marcellus had made himself master of the city, he was fearful of besieging the Euryale ” The great port of Syracusa is about five miles in circumference, and to insure its safety, as well as to obstruct the approach of an enemy, the ancients placed a strong chain from the extreme point of the island, where the present castle stands, to the opposite rock, Plemmy- rium , a distance of about half a mile, where they also constructed a fortress, some traces of which are yet discernible. On the other side of Ortygia is the lesser port, called Portus Mar - SYRACUSA. 149 moreus , in consequence of the bottom having- been originally paved with marble. Ortygia was formerly considered the most important part, because it commanded the en- trances to the ports. The tyrants, perfectly sensible of this advantage, established their re- sidences in this division, and made, from time to time, considerable additions to the fortifica- tions ; and even the Romans , when masters of Syracusa , regarding its situation in the same light, prohibited any native citizen from re- siding in this portion of the city. One of the greatest objects of curiosity ex- isting in Syracusa , and which we were ex- tremely anxious to behold, is the famous fountain of Arethusa. The goddess Diana , according to classical mythology, wishing to protect her favourite companion from the pur- suits of Alpheus , transformed her into this fountain ; but the gods, sensible of his mis- fortunes in consequence of the change, meta- morphosed him in like manner into a river, and united his waters with those of the fair nymph, who was then reluctantly compelled to yield to his amorous pursuit. 150 SYRACUSA. Virgil , in referring to this celebrated foun- tain, thus expresses himself : Sicanio praetenta sinu jacet insula contra Plemmyriam undosum : nomen dieere priores Ortygiam, Alpheus fama est hue, elidis amnem, Occultas egisse vias subter mare ; qui nunc Ore, Arethusa, tuo Siculis confunditur undis. Right o’er-against Plemmyriuni 1 s wat’ry strand, There lies an isle once call’d th* Ortygian land. Alpheus, as old fame reports, has found From Greece a secret passage under ground. By love to beauteous Arethusa led. And, mingling here, they roll in the same sacred bed. Dryden. This sacred fountain of Arethusa , who was so beloved by Diana , to whom divine honours were offered, and upon whose shrine even Her- cules sacrificed, still exists under circumstances nearly similar to what are indicated by Cicero: “ Fons qui fluctu aquae totus operiretur nisi, munitione ac mole lapidum a mari disjunctus esset.” Notwithstanding the lamentable state to which this fountain is now reduced, from having become the public resort of the laun- SYRACUSA. 151 dresses of Syracusa , yet we cannot be surprised at its celebrity, when we contemplate such an abundant spring of fresh water so near the sea ; in fact, the spring is so prolific, that it rather resembles the birth of a large river than the source of a simple fountain. According to an- cient writers, a large basin formerly surrounded it, containing an immense number of fish, which no person presumed to disturb, for fear of of- fending Diana, who was then considered the tutelary divinity of this city. The palace oc- cupied by Verres was likewise situated near this celebrated fountain, as well as that most delightful promenade which he converted into a place of public licentiousness. Agreeably to our plan of examining the va- rious antiquities in one quarter of the city before we commenced those of another, we of course remained in Ortigia , but we sought in vain for the palace of Dionysius , his famed gardens, and his tomb $ for the celebrated baths of Daphnis , son of Mercury , and a Sicilian nymph, inventor of pastoral poetry ; that Daphnis , who so charmed Diana by the recital of his verses : these buildings, alas ! have entirely disappeared : not a fragment of them now remaining ! 152 SYItACUSA. Our attention was directed in the next place to the temple of Minerva , the only ancient mo- nument existing in Ortygia , which was inju- diciously converted, during the twelfth cen- tury, into the cathedral of the modern city : the greater part of the lateral columns and entablature still remain ; which are composed of the Doric order, fluted, and without base. We learn from Atheneus, that a tower w T as erected above the portico of this temple, on which hung a resplendent shield highly po- lished. This shield was visible a great distance at sea, and the prevailing custom then was, that the moment vessels, which had previously de- parted from the port, ceased to behold it, the mariners threw their votive offerings into the sea, in order to obtain the joint favour and pro- tection of Neptune and Minerva. Among the various works of art which Cicero accuses Verres of having carried away from Syracusa were all those statues and paint- ings which once ornamented the interior of this temple. The battles of Agathocles were represented upon the walls in twenty-seven paintings of the highest perfection, and there were besides portraits of all the princes who SYRACUSA. 153 had reigned in Sicily , all of which Verres caused to be taken away, as well as the doors of this sacred edifice, which were composed of the richest materials. So celebrated, indeed, were these doors, that numerous strangers were attracted from Greece and Rome to behold and admire them : the ornaments in gold, ivory, and bronze, were most exquisitely wrought. We next visited the ruins, if such they may be called, of the temple of Diana , the first elevated in Syracusa , but which are now so enveloped and obscured by modern buildings, as scarcely to be visible ; we succeeded, how- ever, by entering several private dwellings, in obtaining a view of some of the columns and parts of the entablature, which are of the Doric order and fluted. On the extremity of the island next the sea is situated the castle, which was rebuilt in its present form in the eleventh century. Many parts, however, of the original Grecian fortress still remain, and in those parts which were re- constructed, columns, entablatures, and other fragments of ancient edifices are very distin- guishable. This castle is very advantageously 154 SYRACUSA. situated, and effectually commands the entrance to the ports. After having traversed the island, which comprises, as we have before mentioned, the modern Syracusa ; we then proceeded through Acradina , which presented neither antique ruins nor any thing of sufficient curiosity to attract our attention. Upon entering the quarter Neapolis, the first object of antiquity that presented itself to our notice was the ancient amphitheatre, of an oval form, with a longitudinal diameter of three hundred and sixteen feet, and a transverse one of two hundred and fourteen feet. The con- struction of the principal parts of this edifice, such as the passages of communication, the cells wherein the wild beasts were confined, the arena, the podium , and seats, were formed out of the natural or living rock. Notwith- standing the decay which devouring time has effected, enough yet remains to form an idea of the grandeur and magnificence which the ancients displayed in the formation of their public edifices. Its construction may certainly be attributed to the Romans, the SYRACUSA. 155 Grecians entertaining an antipathy and even horror at the barbarous custom of introducing as a species of amusement such sanguinary spectacles as generally took place within this particular class of buildings. Near this once splendid amphitheatre exists an ancient reservoir or cistern, about fifty- seven feet long, twenty-three feet wide, and ten feet high, formed evidently out of the na- tural rock ; and in the immediate neighbour- hood are also the remains of the aqueduct which originally supplied it with water. The situation of this reservoir, so contiguous to the amphitheatre, agrees with the accounts given by several ancient writers, of its having been the invariable custom of the Romans to form such a building, so that they might possess a sufficient supply of water for the use of those gladiators who retired with their lives from the combats, which they were so unmercifully and cruelly obliged to encounter. Not far distant from these ruins is the an- cient theatre, which, although in a state of great decay, still presents a grand and im- posing appearance : we reclined for some time on the seats, and enjoyed the most delightful 156 SYItACUSA. prospect, not. only of the modern city and distant sea, but also of the luxuriant plains, watered by the limpid stream of the Anapus , lying immediately at our feet: in fact, the situation of this theatre is really enchanting. The different seats and staircases are for the most part perfect, as well as the prcecinctiones, or barriers, that were introduced for the purpose of preserving each division of seats separate : foundations were also apparent im- mediately behind the exterior or highest seat, which indicated that a covered loggia or cor- ridor had originally surrounded this superb edifice. Upon one of the prcecinctiones of the theatre is an ancient Greek inscription almost in a per- fect state, the subject of which has created much discussion in the literary world. The inscription is as follows : " BA2IAI22AS #IAI2TIA0Z.” l< PHILISTIDES QUEEN.” Although history is completely silent with respect to a cpieen of this name ever having reigned at Syracuse , yet we are justified in concluding, not only from the inscription, but SYRACUSA. 157 also from the numerous medals preserved in the different museums of Europe , that this ce- lebrated female was the wife of one of the tyrants of Syracusct. Philistides is generally represented on the medallions as possessing a serene and lovely countenance : she must have enjoyed a great reputation, as well as have reigned during a long period, being repre- sented on some, as young and beautiful ; on others, more advanced in years ; and on a few, still further advanced in life, with apparent marks of old age : her head is invariably co- vered with a veil, which falls in an elegant manner over the shoulders. The Syracusan ladies, even at the present day, wear their veils in the same chaste style. CHAPTER XVII. SYRACUSA. The Latomice — Ear of Dionysius — Epipolce — Convent of Capuchins — Catacombs — Tomb of Archimedes — Temple of the Olympic Jove . Near the theatre is one of the Latomice , or quarries, excavated by the Athenians , who were made prisoners at the battle that occurred about the year 413 B. C. These spacious and extensive Latomice , of which there are several in Syracusa , were in all probability undertaken more for the stone, which was then absolutely necessary to carrying on the vast and mag- nificent buildings erecting in the city, than as a place of confinement; but in after times, they were converted into prisons. This par- ticular one is about three quarters of a mile in circumference, and is excavated to the depth of about one hundred and twenty feet below the SYRACUSA. 159 level of the adjoining ground ; it is now con- verted into a garden, and presents a most luxuriant appearance : here we observed the deep crimson blossom of the pomegranate, and the bright yellow of the Indian fig, elegantly intermingled with the vine and the orange : in fact, the inhabitants of Syracusa call this lovely spot their paradise. Within this Latomice are many subterraneous grottos likewise dug out of the living rock, the principal of which, from the particular elevation of the entrance, conjointly with the name of the tyrant who ori- ginally caused its formation, is generally known by the appellation of the Ear of Dionysius : the peasants, however, of the neighbourhood, from its possessing a very strong echo, generally call it the Speaking Grotto . The peculiar form and picturesque effect of these singular caves would render them no less agreeable than cu- rious and interesting, if we could forget the dreadful evils which formerly took place within them ; if we could forget the ponderous chains, the inhuman tortures, and the cruel tyranny of Dionysius , who not only behaved in the most cruel and barbarous manner to prisoners of war confined within them, but also to such of his subjects as were so unfortunate as to awaken his suspicion. 160 SYRACUSA. Our attention in the first place was directed to the formation of its plan, which is here in- troduced, in order to present a more correct idea of the form than it would be possible to convey by words. This grotto is about one hundred and seventy feet in depth, twenty to thirty-five in breadth, and sixty in height: a view shewing its pe- Zondon, ZuhhLrhed hy Sherwood, ZTeely, <$'Jfo7ies, 2 Theatre , Odeum — Biscari Museum — Bene- dictine Concent — Population . We departed from Syracusa early in the morn- ing of the 24th of May, and traversed the an- cient city towards the Scala Greca. Passing' over this celebrated spot, we observed some peasants actively employed in reaping corn, a circumstance sufficiently indicative of the ge- nial influence of climate under which this happy country is placed. We now descended the ancient Scala to that plain on which Mar- cellus encamped when he undertook the siege of Syracusa , and continued along it until we ar- rived at the supposed site of the ancient Hyhla , of which city not a vestige remains. In former 192 CATANIA. times it enjoyed considerable celebrity for its honey, as its name will recal to every poetical mind, and which, according to all accounts, rivalled both in transparency and colour the famous amber-coloured wine of Syracuse. Our route now lay through a luxuriant and highly-cultivated country, composed alternately of hill and dale, nature presenting herself under the most enchanting forms, and arrayed in her gayest colours : frequently the wild vine and corn, the rose, jessamine, and ivy w ere seen en- twined together, and if any thing could be said to diminish the feelings of calm and rural de- light which we experienced while gazing on such scenes, it was beholding several vipers basking in the morning sun. Towards noon we approached a miserable fondaco , or public- house of the lowest class, situated at the com- mencement of the plains of Catania , where we remained in order to shelter ourselves from the scorching rays of the sun, which had now become extremely ardent ; the thermometer during our stay at this wretched hovel being at seventy-eight degrees. We quitted this fondaco about three o’clock, proceeding across the plains towards Catania , CATANIA. 193 and had not made much progress before Etna majestically appeared, soaring as it were above the very clouds. On approaching still nearer, the immense column of smoke perpetually rising from the apex of this grand mountain began to appear, and also the enormous fields of lava which had flowed from the crater of this terrible volcano, notwithstanding the numerous obstacles opposed to it, in a steady undeviating course down its ample sides. In traversing these plains we were twice under the necessity of fording the Giarretta , the Symcetlius of an- tiquity, which was the most considerable river we had as yet seen in Sicily. We reached Catania about seven o’clock in the evening, and entered the same through a triumphal arch composed of alternate Courses of lava and free- stone ; we then took up our quarters at the Leone d'Oro , where we resided during our stay in this city. Catania , situated close to the sea, is built upon the declivity of a crater, evidently as an- cient as the world itself, and almost enveloped with the lava which has flowed from it : the different strata shew the great and imminent dangers to which this city has been so often exposed. Surely nothing but the abundance o 194 CATANIA. and fertility of the neighbourhood could ever have endued men with sufficient courage to build and rebuild in a situation which pos- sesses so few advantages for commerce, being as it were without ports, rivers, or fortifica- tions, and besides always menaced with a re- currence of those terrible evils which it has so frequently experienced. Catania is certainly not only the handsomest, but also the best built city in Sicily ; it is well designed, most of the streets being constructed at right angles : the public places are decorated with columns and regular edifices, and the ge- nerality of the principal houses are elevated in a richly-ornamented style ; in fact, Catania owes its present beauty and magnificence to the dreadful ravages it has so repeatedly en- dured from the destructive lava of the neigh- bouring volcano. It is more especially from the port that Ca- tania offers the grandest prospect ; here a capacious quay, ornamented with the finest edifices and public buildings, the noble city with its charming environs, and in the distance the majestic Etna , with its alpine summit clothed in eternal snow, present the most fas- CATANIA. 195 cinating appearance, and form a coup-d'oeil sublime and beautiful in the highest degree. This ancient and celebrated city has no doubt passed through more revolutions than any other in the island, not only those pro- ceeding from its vicinity to Etna , but still more from man, on account of the abundant fertility of the soil. Catania was a city pre- viously to the time of the Tyrians , who were attracted by the commerce which it then car- ried on with the inhabitants establishing them- selves in Sicily. This nation was in course of time dispossessed by the Siculi , originally from Italy , who were in like manner driven away by the Chalcidenses about 730 years B. C. Alcibiades then appeared before Catania with an Athenian army, requesting permission that he might enter alone and address the in- habitants, having something of moment to communicate ; but no sooner was the favour granted, and the general had proceeded to the theatre, than the guards of the city quitted their posts and ran with avidity to behold that extraordinary man. The Athenians , foreseeing such an event, immediately disembarked, and took possession of the different strong places : o 2 196 CATANIA. thus rendering themselves, as it were by stra- tagem, masters of this splendid city. After their departure, Arcesilaus , general of the Catanians , delivered the city rather trea- cherously into the hands of Dionysius , who rased its walls, sent the inhabitants to Syracusa , and fresh peopled the city. Finally, Catania passed into the hands of the Romans during the first Punic war, and after the decline and fall of their powerful empire, it shared the same fate as the other parts of Sicily : it was first ravaged by the Saracens , and then by the Nor- mans, and having at last become the portion of Count Roger , that prince began to reconstruct its walls ; even this, however, was not sufficient to protect it from being again ravaged by Frederic the Second, who ultimately erected the castle that now appears surrounded by the dread- ful lava of 1669, which destroyed the greater part of the city, and formed as it were a new port projecting far into the sea. Thirty-four years after this sad catastrophe, Catania was visited by an earthquake, which swallowed up a great part of the city and nine- teen thousand of its inhabitants, leaving uo- CATANIA. 197 thing but the castle above-mentioned, the walls of the cathedral, and some of the antiquities, whose solid foundations even the earthquake could not disturb. A few years after this ter- rible event, the inhabitants, who from the eruption of 1669 had lived in miserable hovels, began to recover from their fright and possess some little confidence, so that about the end of the seventeenth century they rebuilt the city in its present noble style. There are few cities more interesting, or which merit more attention than Catania , al- though unfortunately the greater proportion of its antiquities are concealed within the various strata of lava. It is much to be re- gretted that more taste was not displayed in its reconstruction : if, for instance, instead of the architecture of the palaces and churches being of that enriched style, it had been more chaste and simple, this city would have been ac- counted not only the most magnificent in Sicily , but even in Europe. The square in which the market is held, is ge- nerally considered the best designed of any part of the city : it is entirely surround ed by splendid buildings and noble porticos constructed of 198 CATANIA. marble. Even the principal square, Piazza del duomo , although much more extensive, is not, in its general appearance, superior : it is however ornamented with two fragments of antiquity, which are certainly curious, and very happily grouped ; they consist of an obelisk of Egyptian granite, elevated upon the back of an elephant composed of lava. The elephant was the ancient symbol of Catania. The chiesa madre , or cathedral, was originally built by Count Roger , but reconstructed in its present form after the fatal earthquake : its front is decorated with some superb columns drawn from the ruins of the ancient theatre. They preserve in the sacristy a painting re- presenting with great exactness the course taken by the lava of 1669, together with a general view of the city such as it then appeared, which is very justly celebrated from its being the production of an eye-witness of this dread- ful scene. Under this church are situated some ancient baths, which were not only discovered some few years since by a Prince of the house of Biscari , but the whole of the expenses required in mak- ing the excavations were likewise defrayed by CATANIA. 199 him : this nobleman also undertook at his own charge the excavations made at the am- phitheatre. We avail ourselves of the pre- sent opportunity to remark, that this prince, from his intimate knowledge of antiquity and his judicious excavations, has certainly restored to the modern all the glory and splen- dour of the ancient Catania. Those parts of the baths, however, which he caused to be excavated, although considerable, form only a small portion of their extent : they consist of an exterior gallery, and an interior peristyle with several baths. The ceilings are covered with a species of stucco, apparently composed of particles of lava, and the baths generally are constructed of lava, finished with the same kind of stucco. Our cicerone next conducted us to the ruins of the amphitheatre, which are very considera- ble, and offer even at the present day some idea of the grandeur of this ancient monument. It has been entirely stripped of the mattoni , or bricks, with which it was covered, as well as all the external ornaments, and there is nothing left but pilasters, which are constructed of lava: from these pilasters spring arches which support a gallery, and upon this a second gal- 200 CATANIA. lery is raised, bearing the uppermost seats of the amphitheatre. This once splendid edifice remained concealed under an accumulated mass of rubbish for many ages, and it was only at the period when Catania was rebuilt that it was discovered : it however remained for the Prince of Biscari to excavate, and as it were to open it to public view. The same obstacles which arrested the excavations at the baths, namely, the contiguity of various private build- ings, likewise presented themselves here, and placed bounds to the active researches of this nobleman. The ruins of the ancient theatre are not less interesting, although in a state of great decay, and there does not exist at the present time a vestige of the proscenium or of its enrich- ments : the columns of granite which formerly decorated it being about a century ago taken away for the purpose of ornamenting the front of the cathedral, where they still remain. These elegant columns and the various marble capitals, bases, friezes, cornices, and other fragments now lying in the court-yards of the Biscari Museum, sufficiently indicate the former grandeur and magnificence of this once splendid theatre. CATANIA. 201 Adjoining the theatre is an Odeum , a smaller building of the same class, which, agreeably to Pausanias and Vitruvius , was constructed for the performance of music : a similar edifice, situated in like manner immediately contiguous to the larger theatre, likewise exists in the an- cient Pompeia , and is in the highest state of preservation. These buildings having no pul- pitum , or any of the preparations necessary for scenic representation, of course strengthen the opinion of their having been originally intended for such performances. So many public edifices of almost every de- scription having been constructed in such a confined space, must have left little room for private dwellings ; and the inference naturally deduced from this circumstance is, that ancient Catania was more enriched with public build- ings than well peopled. It may even be added, that in this respect the modern greatly re- sembles the ancient city, inasmuch as the prin- cipal streets are almost wholly occupied by convents, churches, and splendid palaces. The present will be a fit occasion for intro- ducing some account of the immense and 202 CATANIA. superb cabinet of the Prince of Biscari, which forms, without contradiction, not merely an object of the greatest curiosity but also highly interesting. This prince has not only been the means of discovering and bringing to light most of the edifices of ancient Catania , but has likewise amassed, at a very considerable ex- pense, a vast collection of antiquities, which, to describe slightly, would require a volume. We shall not therefore enter into a detail of this extensive museum, but simply state, that it contains numerous architectural fragments, especially of the ancient monuments of this city ; a splendid series of medals and coins ; specimens of antique mosaics, altars, pateras, and utensils of sacrifice. Various urns and se- veral choice specimens of ancient sculpture also adorn this superb collection, as well as antique vases, the most precious that exist, whether with respect to elegance of form or purity of design, and which are known commonly by the appellation of Etruscan , although more properly designated under that of Greco Siculo , from their having been manufactured in Sicily. This prince has also united the whole natural history of Sicily , comprising marine plants, shells, and fish, as well as minerals, the different volcanic productions, marbles, ala- CATANIA. 203 basters, precious stones, crystals, petrifactions, vegetables, and animals, the whole arranged in such systematic order, as indicates considerable science and taste. The museum likewise con- tains a collection of ancient armour, and many singular costumes. The museum in the convent of Benedictines should not be passed over without notice, for it contains a considerable collection of antiquities, although not so scientifically arranged as those above-mentioned ; among which are numerous antique utensils for domestic purposes, of great beauty and purity, both in their ornaments and execution ; and which are considered su- perior to those deposited in the celebrated museum of Portici. The ancient vases pre- served within this convent are very curious, many of them being extremely elegant in their form as well as possessing a degree of perfection in their paintings. The interior of the convent is profusely or- namented and enriched, more especially that portion reserved for the museum : and its ex- ternal appearance seems rather to announce the palace of a prince than the residence of men who have renounced the vanities of this 204 CATANIA. world. Their church is magnificent and of great extent, and contains an organ constructed by a father of the order, whose various sounds imitate different musical instruments in the most perfect manner. The organist was di- rected to attend for the purpose of playing some tunes upon this instrument, which he certainly executed in a very superior manner : one tune in particular, imitating an echo, was truly admirable; it almost led the imagination to fancy it was following the sound into the very distance of mountains. After quitting the church we walked into the garden, which certainly merits in- spection, from the curiosity of its having been made upon the lava of 1669, which destroyed part of the then convent of Benedictines. The present superb building has been erected since that period, and the whole of the members at- tached to it are selected from the noble fa- milies of Sicily : its endowments are very con- siderable, especially in estates. The terrible lava just mentioned, which flowed from Monte Rosso in the eruption of 1669, after spreading itself over an extent of nearly fifteen miles, came at last against the CATANIA. 205 walls of Catania , which, for some time, resisted the impetuous shock : the mass, however, con- tinually increasing, it finally overcame them, and then ran like a river of fire through the devoted city. Independently of destroying the greater part of the buildings, this frightful lava obliterated a source of water near the walls, the loss of which w as so much the more inconvenient to the unfortunate inhabitants, because the supply was abundant, and per- fectly good : in the course of time they how- ever succeeded, though attended with con- siderable difficulty, in regaining this valuable spring. We descended into the excavation by steps constructed in the lava, and when at the bottom, we availed ourselves of the opportunity of examining part of the ancient wall of the city, which appeared to be constructed in the usual Grecian manner, without mortar or cement. Near this spring we met with another ex- cavation, which had been made under the di- rection of the same Prince of Biscari, where the ruins of a bath were discovered, which probably belonged to some private house in the ancient city. When we reflect upon the numerous monuments which have been brought to light 206 CATANIA. in every place where excavations have been attempted in the various strata of lava, and at different levels, we cannot for a moment doubt that Catania has many times suffered the same dreadful evil it experienced in the year 1669. Although it would be extremely difficult to form even an idea of the different revolutions the ancient city has passed through, yet it may be possible to divide the various antiquities, and to assign to each age that which appears to have belonged to it : for example, the temples and the theatres may be referred to the Greeks , since we learn from history, that when Alcibiades presented himself before the city, he was ad- mitted to an audience in the lesser theatre. The naumachia , the amphitheatre, the gym- nasium, and the grand aqueduct, are most probably works of a later period, when Sicily had become a province of the mighty Roman empire ; for it is well known that these par- ticular buildings were more in use among the Romans than the Greeks , and besides, edifices built with an intermixture of mattoni , or brick and stone, indicate the manner of construction practised by the former of these nations. The population of this city has increased CATANIA. 207 very considerably within the last century, in- asmuch as we find that immediately after the earthquake, its inhabitants amounted to no more than sixteen thousand, but now they are augmented to seventy thousand. During our residence at Catania , we passed some evenings in conversazione with the Baron Recupero , who has devoted more than half a century in making observations upon Etna. This nobleman has been for several years en- gaged in writing a history of this mountain, which is to form two quarto volumes ; the first is published, and the other is expected speedily to follow. The baron as well as his brother, the professor of natural history in the university of this city, not only received us very courteously, but communicated much useful and interesting information respecting this terrific volcano ; and also permitted us to see his valuable collection of coins and precious stones, which although small, con- tains several excellent medallions of Philis- tides , evidently representing her at different periods of life : he also possesses an ex- tremely fine intaglio of the rape of Proser- pine upon a sardonyx, the form of which is oval, with a conjugate diameter of three 208 CATANIA. inches : Pluto and Proserpine are here repre- sented in a car drawn by two horses, and Cyane , one of her favourite nymphs, is sitting* apparently in a very dejected state at the forcibly carrying away of her beloved com- panion. This nobleman likewise possesses two vases of some celebrity on account of their respective paintings ; one of them represent- ing a man who had incautiously entered a sacred wood, in the act of being devoured by dogs ; and the other depicting the memorable combat between Hector and Patroclus. We also visited the museum of the Cavaliere Giannini , containing a vast collection of the natural history of Sicily in all its branches. The brother of this gentleman, who is pro- fessor of mathematics in the university, very politely attended us, and explained the most interesting articles in this truly valuable ca- binet: among the shells were some ex- tremely fine specimens of the elegant nau- tilus. Immediately after our arrival in this city, we visited, as a matter of course, the Sala Nobile , which is situated like that of Syracusa in the principal street, and were received in the most CATANIA. 209 polite way by the noblemen and gentlemen attending the institution. A general invitation was the result of this visit, which we of course accepted with pleasure, and passed many hours very pleasantly, and even usefully, during our stay. The females of Catania are, like those of Si- racusa, every thing that is charming, elegant, and lovely. The climate is extremely fine, and is generally considered very salubrious ; while the wines, from being made of grapes produced from a lava soil, possess the most exquisite and delicious flavour. p CHAPTER XX. ETNA. In the midst of those once torrents of fire, of those fields of lava which have been accu- mulating from time immemorial, is found the most fertile and cultivated country upon the face of the earth. It is however true, that it requires ages of repose before such a soil pro- duces vegetation : but the corn, vegetables, and fruit, ultimately raised upon it, are certainly of a very superior quality. A topographical plan of this terrific volcano and its immediate vicinity is annexed, which, it is presumed, will more satisfactorily il- lustrate its relative situation : an explanation of the references therein inserted is given in the undermentioned note *. * 1. Catania. 2. Jaci Reale. 3. Taormina . 4. Cento Cavalli. E T If A ETNA. 211 The view of Etna from the sea, as the fair Aurora makes her appearance, is peculiarly grand and magnificent, and enables the ob- server to form some idea of the colossal pro- portions of this stupendous mountain. Lan- guage, however, must unquestionably fail in describing this wonderful work of nature, which it is much easier to imagine than to give an accurate idea of, or rather the one and the other are equally impossible ; in fact, it must be seen in order fully to comprehend the har- mony, grandeur, and beauty encircling its cul- tivated base, its woody region, and its snow- clad summit. The accompanying sketch faintly delineates this superb view. Etna is divided into three regions ; the first extending from Catania to Nicolosi , the last village ascending on this side of the mountain, and which is called Regione colta , or the cul- tivated region : the second is named Regione 5. The crater. 6. Grotta delle Capriole. 7 . Bronte. 8 . Monte Rosso. 9 . Nicolosi. 10. Tre Castagne. 1 1 . Lentini. p2 212 ETNA. nemoresa , or the woody region ; and the third* Regione nevosa , or the snowy region. We avail ourselves of the present oppor- tunity to insert some statistical observations respecting this most extraordinary phenome- non, derived principally from the interesting conversazione that we frequently enjoyed with the Baron Recup ero. The circumference of the base of Etna , near 180 miles. The height above the level of the sea, agreeably to trigonometrical observations made in the plains of Catania in the year 1756, 14,889 feet. The distance traversed in ascending from Catania to the cima of the mountain, about 30 miles. The diameter of the crater at the summit or cima , about 2800 feet. The form conical, running on two sides into the sea, and on the others almost in- sulated. ETNA. 213 The number of persons inhabiting the va- rious towns and villages situated upon the de- clivity of the mountain, upw ards of 300,000. The extent of view from the summit em- braces generally the whole of Sicily , Malta , the Lipari islands, Calabria , the gulf of Tarentum , and the Adriatic and Mediterranean seas, ex- tending itself over a radius of about 165 miles. The author of this tour having been seriously indisposed during the journey up Etna , in con- sequence of the great variations in the atmo- sphere, he ventures to insert a description of that arduous and di fficult undertaking from the pen of one of his Prussian companions, which ap- peared in that excellent periodical publication, the Literary Gazette , of the 17th, 24th, and 31st January 1818, and therein stated by the editor to have been copied from a German Review. “We rode towards Etna. The day was fine, but the sun burned hotly, and our mules carried us very slowly up the mountain, on the difficult, slippery, and sandy way. We at last saw be- neath us the pleasant town of Catania , where we had lived so happily, and the broad ex- 214 ETNA. panse of the sea, though the edge of it seemed to rise gradually towards the horizon. Our Catanian landlord, and a sumpter-horse to carry the provisions, followed us. “ These lava fields are known to be pro- digiously fertile, and from their black bosom rises without interruption the richest luxu- riance of the southern vegetation. Hence it is that we find on this dangerous crust of lava the most flourishing, nay the only villages in Sicily , and for the twelve miles from Catania to the last village called Nicolosi , pass through nothing but blooming gardens and prosperous towns ; but on the other hand this first part of the road in the cultivated region of Etna is rendered disagreeable from being entirely con- fined between the walls of vineyards. About half a mile below' Nicolosi , the black-grey lava sand begins to cover the earth with mourning up to the summit of the volcano, a distance of about twenty miles, and presents an infinitely gloomy and almost terrifying sight. Not far from the village there lies a very deep extin- guished crater, which threw out fire about three centuries ago. “ Towards evening we arrived at Nicolosi, and ETNA 215 found a most kind and hospitable reception in the house of Don Mario Gemmdlaro , the in- tendant and physician of the place. This in- telligent man, equally estimable for his mo- desty and his knowledge, is so interesting to every traveller to Etna , that we hope some ac- count of him may be acceptable. “ Whoever ascends Etna on the side of Ca- tania must either stop at the convent of San Nicolosi d’ Arena, near Nicolosi , or apply in the village itself to the hospitality of Gemmellaro , who has always the goodness to lend a room to travellers. We should advise every body to adopt the latter course, because the advice of this gentleman, who for these fifteen years has observed the volcano with remarkable interest and zeal, will be of the greatest service. Be- fore the year 1804, he had built a small house near the Philosopher’s Tower (about three quarters of a league below the high crater) to protect travellers from snow, hail, and storms, when an English officer, Lord F , having experienced the advantage of such a shelter, induced Don Mario Gemmellaro , by promising to open a subscription among his countrymen then resident on the island, to build a conve- nient house for travellers, as well as a stable for 216 ETNA. sumpter-horses and mules. This little building, which was finished the same year, will be ap- preciated at its full value by every one, who, after suffering from the wind, ice, and cold, arrives at the cone of the volcano. The En- glish call this little asylum “ The house of the English ” but the inhabitants of Etna give it the name of “ The house of Gemmellaro” as he was at the chief expense * and trouble in erecting it. Every traveller receives the keys gratis. Gemmellaro’ s house at Nicolosi lies close to the lava eruption of the year 1787, and near the mouth of the crater of the year 1669. Gem~ mellaro and his faithful companion, Antonio Barbagallo, have traversed this remarkable mountain with indefatigable labour; and the former would, without doubt, be able to give a much better account of this terrific volcano than Ferraro , who never went up Etna. “ After a short repose, we set out at near ten o clock at night, accompanied by one guide, riding on a mule, and a second on foot. We stumbled over the very fatiguing way through the woody region, regione nemorosa , in a dark * The author feels great pleasure in asserting, that the whole of the expenses were defrayed by the English officers then stationed in Sicily. ETNA 217 night, upon our mules, without meeting any accident ; thanks to our sagacious animals that we did not break our necks in these intricate narrow paths among the lava rocks. At length the moon emerged from the clouds, and her pale light displayed at an immeasurable depth below us the bright mirror of the sun. “ We now arrived in the snowy region, re- gione nevosa , when suddenly the sky was covered with black tempestuous clouds, and the bleak air benumbed us. Wo could not now hope to see the sun rise, for the sake of which w ; e had pushed so briskly forward; for this reason, and from having suffered much from the incle- mency of the weather, we resolved to rest our- selves in the lava cavern, called Grotla del Cas- telluccio. After we had taken a cheerful break- fast, though with chattering teeth, we con- tinued to wade through the immense field of volcanic ashes, — the Grot t a del Castelluccio ly- ing two hours below the crater. At length, the sun rising from the sea, amidst the stormy clouds, illumined the frightful wilderness, which we had not yet perfectly seen. All ve- getation, except green tufts of moss, had long been passed : surrounded with clouds and smoke, we proceeded, sometimes over white 218 ETNA. fields of snow, sometimes through a black sea of ashes, towards the summit, unable to see above fifty steps before us. In this way we had advanced about a thousand paces from Gemmellaro' s house, when suddenly our En- glish companion began to groan terribly, and fell from his mule into the arms of the guide. This unlucky event, in the gloomy solitude, and amidst the clouds of smoke, embarrassed us not a little, and of course put an end to our Etna journey for the present ; for what were we to do with our sick companion } Our little stock of wine, which might, perhaps, have re- freshed him, we had left in the cavern Del Cas- telluccio ; and as the chief cause of his illness was the. rarefied air, and the extraordinary change of temperature from 87° to 31°,* it would have been folly to proceed further up to Geimnellaro’s empty house. After he had re- covered himself a little, therefore, we covered him with mantles, and carried him, as he was not able to ride on his mule, down to the Grotta del Castelluccio. Here he was again taken so ill, and fainted so often, that, we thought him dy- ing. However, an hour’s sleep, and the warm and denser air, braced him so much that he was able to proceed with us to Nicolosi. * According to Fahrenheit. ETNA. 219 “ In the afternoon, about three o’clock, we arrived at Nicolosi, refreshed ourselves first with a good repast, drinking our Catanian land- lord’s health, and afterwards by a sound sleep. When we awoke, about nine in the evening, the sky above us was magnificently clear. Our resolution was soon taken, — the mules were saddled, — we gave our sick companion to the care of Don Mario , and joyfully rode, for the second time, towards the smoking cone. The night was wonderfully beautiful : we saw the smoke rise quite perpendicularly out of the crater in the deep blue of the nocturnal sky, and therefore confidently anticipated success in our undertaking. The truly golden cres- cent of the moon swam in the pure ether, and illumed the sea far and wide. Our hearts palpitated with joy ; w^e shouted and sang, the mules climbed like goats securely over the lava rocks, and we soon arrived in the interior of the woody region. The immense lava-stratum of 1769 lay on one side of us, frightful, like a petrified ocean, whose waves still seem to rage. “ W r e had not arrived at the end of the oak forest when there arose a cutting wind, which soon became a furious storm, and so benumbed us, that without the cloaks and hoods which Gemmellaro ' s kindness had supplied, we should 220 ETNA. hare been half frozen* It now seemed impos- sible, from the sudden change of the tempera- ture, to ride to the summit without having first warmed ourselves. We were, therefore, very glad when we reached, at the end of the woody region, the Goafs Cavern, by some called t£ The Grotto of the English ,” where poor Bry- done was disappointed of his Etna journey by a severe fall, and a sprain of his foot, which obliged him to bivouack : the more we must admire his fancy, which enabled him to speak with such rapture of the prospect from the double summit of the highest crater, without having ever ascended it. A bright fire soon burned up in this dark lava cavern, which was a great comfort to our chilled limbs ; for the at- mosphere here was 4 0# under the freezing point. In spite of all the inconvenience, this night is perhaps the most remarkable in our pilgrim- age. Sometimes the moon peeped from behind the black clouds, and shewed us the sea at an immeasurable depth below us ; — we beheld, full of astonishment, in dark outlines, the im- mense masses of clouds, which the wind fu- riously seized, as it were, and hurled into the sea; — sometimes the column of smoke from the crater rose far above us in the sky ; — our * According to Fahrenheit. ETNA. ‘221 cavern was involved in the deepest shade, and before us the faithful mules stood with their heads bowed down. We lay stretched round about the fire, and here, under the shelter of the once fluid stream, we felt ourselves inexpressibly comfortable, and from the bottom of our hearts exclaimed, with the shepherd of Theocritus , “ O ! Etna , my mother, 1 inhabit in the hollow rocks a delightful grotto, and what I ever dreamed of I now possess !” “ At midnight we indeed set out, but the im- penetrable blackness of the sky, and the raging storm, deprived us of all hope of a happy re- sult, which did not a little afflict us. After three wearisome hours, during which, shaken by the penetrating cold, we had clambered in the dark over the lava beds, we again reached the Grotta del Castelluccio , got directly from our mules, and crept into the back part of the ca- vern. A good breakfast soon revived our spi- rits, and as we hoped that when the sun gained strength the fog would disappear, we laid our- selves down on the ground, and slept very soundly for several hours, without any fire, which cannot be made in the snowy region for want of materials. Though it was already ten o’clock A. M. and the thick fog had not dis- 222 ETNA. persed, yet we could not resolve to return for a second time without attaining our object, or, at least, without having used every effort to effect it. The guide fearing to lose his way in the fog, was not much inclined to the journey to the cone ; but, as the wind abated a little, we persuaded him to consent. We left the sumpter horses at the cavern, and advanced straight forward on foot through the immense ocean of sand, the dense fog, and the flying' clouds, but not without great difficulty. We waded up to the ancles in ashes, the clouds wetted our heavy mantles ; but the cold froze them again immediately, so that we were co- vered over with a white crust, like Greenland bears, and could scarcely bear the weight of our clothes. After a most fatiguing march of two hours, the sight of Gemmellaro’s house was as invigorating to us as the ICaaba at Mekka to the Turkish pilgrim ; but unluckily the door was broken down, we supposed, by travellers who had ascended from Bronte , and accord- ingly the whole building was full of snow and ice ; so that we, who were wetted to the skin w ith the perspiration and fog, feared that we should freeze to death without fire in this ice cellar. Under these circumstances, it was doubtful whether we should have strength enough to ETNA. 223 ascend the double summit, and whether the guide would be able to find his way in this rude weather ; and, even if we did succeed in ascending it, whether we should be rewarded for our trouble. As we, however, thought, like Ulysses , when he believed that he should never more see his native country, that we would be satisfied with only seeing the smoke rising, we determined to go still further. We therefore now proceeded over fields of snow, above which now and then appeared huge black rocks of lava, so that the whole place resembled a churchyard ; but we had scarcely advanced for about a quarter of an hour, when the wind and storm increased in the same proportion as our strength diminished, and we were obliged to resolve, however vexatious it was now to us, being so near the crater, to give up, for the se- cond time, our intention of ascending the sum- mit. We now turned back, and paced with angry steps over the lava fields to the Grotta del Castelluccio , where we had left our mules. Rude as the weather was, we could not help admiring the grand and the terrible appear- ance presented by the clouds and shadows which rolled in fluid masses over the black rocks. As we were so thoroughly wet through, the cold made it impossible for us to ride, and 224 ETNA. with rapid steps we hurried through the woody region to Nicolosi , where the kind Gemmellaro received us with friendship as well as pity. “ Notwithstanding the unpleasantness of the day, we yet passed the evening very cheerfully in the company of this amiable gentleman. He communicated to us some results of his observa- tions on the vertical and horizontal eruptions of the volcano, which he has mentioned in the little book of which we have already spoken, “ On the Eruptions of the Volcano in the year 1809.” As the eruptions of lava often broke out far below the high crater, some think that issuing from the centre of this terrible ba- sin of fire, they burst in a horizontal direction, through the body of this gigantic mountain. But, on the other hand, the direction of all these channels of lava upwards to the high cra- ter seems to prove that every eruption pro- ceeds from it in a vertical direction, only that it often takes a subterraneous course, and breaks out far below the high crater. When, in the year 1381, the lava broke out near Gra - vina, it proceeded from the summit by a vertical channel under ground, of which a part may be yet seen to the east of Mascabera and Mas - sannunziata. In the year 1537, it was possible ETNA. 225 to trace exactly the vertical course of the lava in the direction of the high crater to the thir- teen mouths, which opened at certain distances from one another in a descending line. The dreadful eruption of the year 1669, which broke out at Monte Rosso , near Nicolosi , proceeded from the neighbourhood of the high crater of Monte Frumento , likewise through a chan- nel under ground to the Val del Bue , over- turning from their foundation the mountains under which it passed, and thereby forming this most dismal cleft. “ The directions of the eruption in the year 1763, and that of 1766, are likewise in a fallinsr vertical line. One sees a similar cleft ,near Gemmellaro ’ s house, and the Philosopher’s Tower down to Monte Frumento, through which the lava flowed in the year 1780. The vertical direction from the high crater was indicated still more plainly by the eruption which, in 1792, passed under ground from the Phi- losopher’s Tower; because the earth every- where sunk in, and so the lava marked its course by a deep cleft or furrow. Lastly, the lava flowed, in 1809, evidently from the high crater through a channel under ground, and passed through the beautiful oak forest Q 226 ETNA. of Castiglione ; for below the high crater, in the place called Piano dell ’ Etna , there were made, in a falling line to Coriazzo , ten openings in succession, by the force of the air, highly rarefied by the internal fire : then the lava stream proceeded under ground to a little below Monte Rosso , where the expansion of the air burst the surface of the earth with eighteen rents, and here, amidst so dreadful a crash that the thunder of the heaviest artillery was a trifle in comparison, a terrible torrent of lava broke out of thirteen new mouths, and flowed down towards the vil- lage of Lingua gr ossa. In Don Mario Gem - mellaro’s opinion, the great mines in which the ferrets often pursue the rabbits for miles to- gether under ground are similar subterraneous channels of lava of ancient eruption. “ The following day, at seven in the morning, we were awakened by the bright beams of the sun; the sky was serene and blue. A perpen- dicular column of smoke rose from Etna into the air. We got ourselves ready in haste, and, to the astonishment of the good Gemmellaro and every body at Nicolosi, we were mounted in an hour, for the third time to try our for- tune against the volcano, which had hitherto ETNA. 227 been so impracticable to our wishes. Accom- panied by the friendly, sensible, and bold guide, Antonino Barbagallo , we left Nicolosi \ and rode without stopping past the lava beds, to the Goat’s Cavern at the end of the woody region. Here, under the agreeable shade of the oaks, we took a slight breakfast ; the lovely green of the forest blended with the purest azure of the heavens, and a shepherd played romantic airs on his flute, while his nimble goats grazed on a little spot in the middle of the once fluid ocean of fire ; the dark blue sea mingled in the distance with the placid sky — Oh ! what delight then filled our souls ! The faithful mules carried us again through the intricate lava paths into the desert regions ; but this time we passed without visiting the fatal Grotta del Castelluccio to the house of Gemmel- laro , sometimes full of apprehension, as the clouds began again to cross one another ra- pidly : but yet there were moments when the sky was quite clear and serene. “ Here, at Gemmellaro' s house, we already enjoyed a part of the heavenly prospect which awaited us, over the sea and the whole island. I he clouds floated rapidly in large masses, as if to a battle ; every thing was in commotion * Q 2 2*28 ETNA. and, most of all, our souls. Our excellent Antonino contrived to prepare for us in haste a little dinner. We soon had the snow and lava fields, at the foot of the immense ash cone, behind us, and now actually ascended it ; a troublesome way, as at every step we sunk in the loose volcanic sand, losing' almost as much back as we gained forwards ; but joy gave us wings. Already we had passed over the beds of yellow sulphur; already the ground under us began to feel hot in places, and to smoke out of many hundred little craters ; w hile round the summit itself the clouds sometimes col- lected in thick masses, and sometimes allowed us to see clearly the grand object of our wishes. At last the guide, who w^as some steps before us, called out, “ Behold here the highest crater!” these words gave us new speed, and in a few minutes we stood. at the brink of this smoking caldron, the mouth of which has vomited forth mountains, some of which are larger than Vesuvius, or the Brock-en in Ger- many. “ We instantly determined to descend into the crater, and though our resolute guide as- sured us beforehand, that it w ould now be im- possible, as the smoke did not rise perpen- ETNA. 229 dicularly, but tilled the crater, he was willing to make a trial. We followed him a little way, but the dense, almost palpable sulphureous vapour, soon involved us in a thick night, and would have burst the strongest lungs. “ We then went up to the southern horn, and here lay astonished on the hot sulphur, amidst smoke, vapours, and thunder. The hot ashes burned us, the sulphureous vapours stifled us, the storm threatened to hurl us into the abyss ; our souls were scarcely equal to the irresistible force of the sublimest impressions. In the valleys beneath, full of black lava and white snow, and over the bright surface of the sea, which looked like a plane of polished steel, and seemed to lean obliquely to the skv, immense hosts of clouds sailed slowly along ; but when they came near to the vol- cano, the furious hurricane, in which we could scarcely keep our feet, seized them, and pre- cipitated them w ith gigantic force ten thousand feet down on the plains and seas of Sicily and Italy. We then proceeded round the edge of the crater to the northern horn ; and here en- joyed a prospect, which in sublimity and over- powering grandeur doubtless exceeds any thing that the faculties of man can conceive. 230 ETNA. The clouds of smoke rose from the crater, where the raging storm, which, like artillery or innumerable bells, drowned every other sound, rent them asunder, and with the ra- pidity of lightning threw them into the abyss below. The pointed cone on which we stood was covered with a yellow sulphur, white salt, and black ashes. The sun appeared very strange through the yellow sulphur, and gave to this singular picture such a terrible and savage tone, that in looking only at the objects immediately surrounding us, we could not help fancying ourselves in the horrid dominion of the prince of the infernal hosts. Every where we beheld the war of the elements, desolation, and conflagration : nowhere a living creature or even a blade of grass which these contend- ing elements had spared. What a scene must it be, when the volcano throws the column of smoke and fire, which it perhaps raises from the bottom of the sea, twenty thousand feet towards the heavens ! “ But if we turn our eyes to the distance, it really seems as if we beheld here all the mag- nificence of the earth at our feet. We over- look the vast mountain, which has itself risen out of the earth, and has produced around ETNA. 231 many hundred smaller ones, clothed in dark brown the purest azure sky reposes over the land and sea ; — the triangle of Sicily stretches its points towards Italy and Africa ; and we saw the sea flow round Cape Trapani. At our feet lay the bold rocks of the Eolian islands, and from Stromboli a vast column of smoke rose above the waves. The Neptunian and Hercean mountains, covered with the thickest forests, extended before our eyes in all their branches over the whole island. To the east we saw, as on a large map, the whole of Calabria , the gulf of Tarento , and the Faro of Messina. But how is it possible to excite, in the mind of a person at a distance, even a faint conception of the innumerable brilliant colours of the sky, the earth, and the sea, which here almost dazzle the eye ? “ After we had contemplated this astonishing- scene for about two hours, we quickly de- scended the cone to Gemmellaro’s house, where we made the happiest triumphal repast that was any where celebrated at that moment, — at least at so great an elevation. Antonino then sent the sumpter horses down to the Grotta del Castelluccio by the other guide ; but we ourselves took the direction to the west, all with closed 232 ETNA. eyes, led by our guide, to the brink of the Val del Bue. We have already observed that this most horrid abyss that ever our eyes beheld was caused by a subterraneous torrent of lava, which undermined all the mountains that stood above it ; — hence the infernal brown-red co- lours of this precipice, which is many miles in length ; and though we could not see any trace of vegetation, yet the diversity of tints was in- finite. We rolled down large blocks of lava, but they broke into dust before they had fallen one half of the dreadful way, and we did not hear them strike in their descent. Compared with this horrid cleft of the lava, even the abyss of the Rhme at the Viamala in the Grisons is pleasant and agreeable. Here we look, as it were, into the heart of desolation. While we were still contemplating this extraordinary valley, Etna itself prepared for us a new and Wonderful sight. As the sun was descending into the western sea, the gigantic shadow of the volcano projected for many miles over the blue sea towards Italy , and then rose, like an enormous pyramid, high in the air, on the edge of the horizon, so that the stars seemed to sparkle upon its summit. So ended the richest and happiest day of ETNA. 233 our journey, and perhaps of our lives. We then mounted our mules, which brought us in safety over the rugged fields of lava in pro- found darkness, about midnight, to Nicolosi , where the worthy Gemmellaro waited for us with impatience. Transported with our suc- cess, we filled him also with the greatest plea- sure, and it was not possible for us to go to sleep. We spent the greater part of the night rejoicing with him and our brave Antonino Bar bag alio .” Observations made by the Author in ascending Etna , on the 2>0th and 31 si -May, 1815. o’Clock. Degrees. Fahrenheit > Temperature at Catania - - Noon 76 In the first, or Piemontese region 3-4 P. M. 87 At Nicolosi, the last village in ascending the mountain on this side, situated about 2750 feet above the level of the sea - 6 66 Commencement of the second, or the Nemorosa region - - 1 14- 57 Commencement of the third, or the Nevosa region - - 2 A. M. 50 At the Grotta del CastelluCcio - 4 44 Upon the snow and lava, about 1000 paces from the Casa In - glese - * - 54- 33 234 ETNA. Observations made by the German Gentlemen in their third Attempt on the 2 d of Jane. o’Clock. Degrees. Fahrenheit. Nicolosi - Commencement of the second re- 8 A. M. 63 gion - 9 61 At the Grotta del Castelluccio J2 or Noon 56 At the Casa Inglese - 14- P- M. 32 At the cima, or top of the crater - 3| P. M. 31 sitting. Ditto - — 294:Standing. Ditto - 4 P. M. 28 standing. We shall now bid adieu to Etna , first in- serting the glowing description of this mag- nificent and colossal mountain introduced by Virgil in the third book of his JEneis. Portus ab accessu ventorum immotus, et ingens Ipse; sed horrificis juxta tonat Etna ruinis, Interdumque atrum prorumpit ad aethera nubem. Turbine fumantem piceo et candente favilla: Attollitque globos flammarum, et sidera lambit : Interdum scopulos avulsaque viscera montis Erigit eructans, liquefactaque saxa sub auras Cum gemitu glomerat, fundoque exaestuat imo. Fama est, Enceladi semustum fulmini corpus Urgeri, mole hac ingentemque insuper Etnam Impositam, ruptis flammam expirare caminis: Et fessum quoties mutat latus, intremere omnem MurmUre Trinacrium, et ccelum subtexere fumo. The port, capacious and secure from wind. Is to the foot of thund’ring Etna join’d : ETNA. 235 By turns a pitchy cloud she rolls on high ; By turns hot embers from her entrails fly. And flakes of mounting flames that lick the sky. Oft from her bowels massy rocks are thrown, And, shiver’d by the force, come piecemeal down ; Oft liquid lakes of burning sulphur flow. Fed from the fiery springs that boil below. Enceladus, they say, transfixed by Jove , With blasted limbs came tumbling from above ; And, where he fell, th’ avenging father drew This flaming hill, and on his body threw. As often as he turns his weary sides. He shakes the solid isle, and smoke the heavens hides. Dryden. CHAPTER XXI. Cyclopian Isles— Jaci Reale. Upon recovering from the indisposition that had attended our journey up Etna , we began se- riously to think of prosecuting our tour towards Messina ; and after mature consideration as to whether this journey should be undertaken by land, visiting in the way the celebrated ches- nut-tree called cento cavalli, whose foliage is said to be so extensive as to afford shelter to a hundred horsemen ; or whether by sea, touching at those parts of the coast where the different strata of lava appeared interesting: we ultimately de- termined upon adopting the latter, conceiving that it would present most objects worthy of observation. We accordingly departed from Catania early in the morning of the 4th of June in a fragile bark, and kept close in with the land till we ar- CYCLOPIAN ISLES. 237 rived at the Castello d'Aci. The coast, for a considerable extent in the vicinity of Catania , is entirely formed of lava, and, generally speak- ing, presents a steep and rocky aspect, ex- ceeding, in many instances, a hundred feet in height : and as to the depth or distance the lava has flowed into the sea, it is impossible to form any opinion. In several places the masses of lava have become insulated, leaving a deep gulf between them, in which the water appears black, although it is perfectly clear and trans- parent. We learn from the ancient poets that Ulysses , returning from the Trojan war, was driven by stress of weather on the Sicilian shore ; and tradition having selected this spot as the place where he effected his landing, it has consequently received the appellation of the port of Ulysses. Proceeding further along the coast, our at- tention was arrested by the Cyclopian isles, the Scopuli Cyclopum of Pliny , which are situated almost in a right line near the shore, and only a short distance from each other. In addition to these three isles, there is also a fourth, called the Isola della Trizza, which is about forty feet above the level of the sea, and nearly half a mile in circumference. This island is com- 238 CYC LO PI AN ISLES. posed of two distinct substances, the base or lower part, comprising about half the height, being of black lava, which is extremely hard, and the surface or upper part of a whitish kind of argillaceous matter. The Cyclopian islands are much more ele- vated than the Isold della Trizza , and are ter- minated rather conically : the one now referred to, namely, the second isle from the shore, is the highest, and its summit is very much pointed, so much so, that at a distance it appears to possess the form and character of a pyramid. This island is composed of basaltic columns of different heights, placed almost vertically; it is extremely easy to disembark on the ex- ternal row, which is not more than three feet above the sea, and then they progressively increase, as they approach the centre, one or two articulations in height, forming a kind of ladder or staircase. The columns in the centre are from two to three feet dia- meter, and in general are pentagonal, and so disposed as to form regular groups of six together. The articulations or vertebrae are about two feet six inches apart, and although marked very strong on the external face, are not wholly separated from each other, being r-yfT n .(mp iH‘. A\ m ■ CYCLOPIAN ISLES. 239 united in the centre of this apparent division. The highest of these columns are about sixty feet above, and, from the observations made on the spot, are full as much below, the level of the sea. Those of the centre have on their summit a layer or bed of clay, of the same nature as that which forms the surface of the island of Trizza , and the basalt is of a dark- brown colour, very hard, and containing many particles of zeolite. The third isle is less in height, and its summit exhibits a less pointed appearance. It is, however, equally formed of basaltic co- lumns, whose substance is of a darker co- lour and finer quality, with rather less zeolite than the basalt of the former island. The remaining isle is still less than the pre- ceding, and is likewise composed ot similar columns of smaller diameter, which seem thrown or heaped together as if diverging from one point, and presenting externally their strongest side, while they diminish as they approach towards their common centre. The summits of these two rocks are also covered with the same argillaceous substance. A slight sketch of this beautiful scene is offered in the accompanying plate. 240 CYCLOPIAN ISLES. Besides the Cyclopian isles, there are several small groups of basaltic columns, not only in the sea, but likewise on the shore ; their ge- neral form is pyramidical, and the columns vary in respect to the number of angles, from three to eight. In some the colour is a deep black, in others rather more of a brown, but all of them are more or less impregnated with zeolite. From the Cyclopia n isles our sp.eronara made sail and proceeded to Jaci , a town situated close upon the shore, whose origin is traced to a remote period of the fabulous age, and is supposed to have derived its name from Acis, the lover of Galatea , whom the cyclops, Poly- phemus , in a fit of rage and phrensy, crushed to atoms with a huge rock of lava, while he was amorously reclining upon the bosom of his beautiful nymph. The present town of Jaci occupies a much higher situation than the ancient one, oc- casioned, no doubt, by the accumulation of lava Avhich has flowed at various epochs from the terrific crater of the all-powerful and all- destructive Etna: the different strata are very perceptible, especially in a flight of steps ex- cavated in the neighbouring cliff’s. CHAPTER XXII. Taormina , the ancient Taurominium. We now quitted Jaci Reale , re-embarked on board our speronara , and after a most delight- ful sail, arrived in the cool of the evening at the port of Taormina , where we landed, and then ascended by torch-light the steep and craggy mountain, upon whose summit the town is situated. This little journey being accom- plished, we proceeded to the convent of Do- minicans, where we were courteously received by the padre rettore, as well as found tolerably good accommodation. We arose on the following morning before fair Aurora and her attendant train appeared, and immediately repaired to the theatre of the ancient Taurominium , which, from its fine state of preservation, and its admirable position, forms a ruin highly interesting. It even seems R 242 TAORMINA, as if nature had fashioned the site for the ex- press purpose of receiving such a structure. T he Greeks , aware of the advantages that this par- ticular situation possessed for such a building’, seized it with avidity, and there erected this su- perb monument, which required nothing more than forming the seats out of the natural rock, and then erecting the exterior and interior portico or gallery which surrounded this edifice. Although the opening of the proscenium of this theatre exceeds one hundred feet in width, it is nevertheless so admirably constructed, that the least sound is distinctly heard, even in the most distant part ; a fact fully ascertained by our cicerone placing himself immediately before the proscenium and reciting some sonnets, which were perfectly audible, although we were sta- tioned on the furthest seat of the theatre. Having perused the account of Taormina, by D’ Orville, and coinciding generally in his re- marks, we cannot do better than insert a trans- lation of such parts as relate te this ancient edifice. “ The theatre of Taormina is constructed upon an eminence which overlooks the sea, and is at the present day almost entire, or at least THE ANCIENT TAUROMINIDM. 243 preserves its ancient form. The various seats assigned for the reception of the spectators, as well as the staircases, were excavated out of the living rock, while the rest of the edifice was constructed of brick. “ Although we were unable to discover of what materials the columns were constructed, those parts being removed, yet, in all pro- bability, they were of marble, as there still exist the remains of several quarries in the neighbouring mountains. “ The summit of the mountain is nearly of * the same shape as the portico which surrounds the theatre, and forms a most delightful pro- menade around its confines. It is such a site as Vitruvius recommends for a theatre, being elevated, as well as extremely sonorous : £ ut in eo vox quam clarissime vagari possit \ and from its interior the spectators enjoyed a most animated view, not only of the sea, but also of the receding mountain scenery. “The spectators ascended the rock to the level of the portico by means of staircases, and then entered the theatre and took their seats. In the interior face of the wall which surrounds r 2 244 TAORMINA, the audience' part of the theatre are niches,, which it is supposed were originally destined to receive statues, a custom very prevalent among 1 the ancients. 44 The interior of the theatre, that is, the part reserved for the representation of the spec- tacle, it is well known, was composed of a space having the form of rather more than a semicircle, which was in all the theatres of an- tiquity divided into the orchestra , the pulpitum , and the proscenium . “ The pulpitum was ordinarily formed of wood supported by masonry ; and in this theatre the foundation of the masonry is still apparent. The proscenium was decorated with three public doors or entrances : it however appears from many examples, that the ancients had no fixed or determinate rule respecting them, sometimes introducing only one, and sometimes five. Vitruvius , however, speaks but of three, and these he denominated aula regia , and aulas hospitalia .” This edifice being considered the most per- fect Grecian theatre now existing, we conse- quently devoted much attention both to its form THE ANCIENT TAUJEtOxMlNlUM. 245 and construction. We also compared the plan given by D'Orville with the ruins themselves, making' such alterations as the excavations carried on since the period he visited Taormina suggested. The accompanying plan, thus amended, is introduced, in order more effec- tually to elucidate our account of this superb monument of antiquity *. The different views enjoyed from the theatre of Taormina are as magnificent and beautiful * Explanation of the References inserted upon the Plan. A. Portico surrounding the theatre. B. Interior gallery. C. Amphitheatre, or seats for the spectators. D. Podium, reserved for distinguished personages. E. Orchestra, part appropriated for buffoons and dancers. F. Pulpitum, from whence the different actors recited. G. Proscenium, or front of the stage. H. Aula Regia, or royal entrance. I. AuIcb Hospitalia, or entrances for strangers. K. Doors, through which the actors retired from the Pul- pitum. L. Postscenium. M. External wall of the theatre. N. Wall supporting a terrace. O. Steps by which the summit surrounding the theatre is attained, as well for the purpose of entering it, as en- joying the delightful prospect. 246 TAORMINA, as they are boundless and various. On one side appears the town, sheltered on the north by extremely high mountains ; further onwards the rich and luxuriant country covering the immense base of Etna, then the almost in- accessible woods, encircling the middle re- gion of this magnificent mountain, and ul- timately the vapoury summit of this terrific volcano, clothed with eternal snow, majestically appear. Looking in another direction rather more towards the south, Jaci Reale, the Cy- clopian isles, Catania with her black lava shores, Augusta , and lastly, Syracusa , almost lost in the distance, present themselves. Such are the charming scenes enjoyed from the seats of this ancient theatre. T he piospect from the summit on the ex- tei ior of the eastern side is neither less ex- tensive nor less magnificent. A most superb view of the immense mountain scenery of Sicily, extending to the very extremity of the island, fiist presents itself, together with the celebrated Faro of Messina ; then appear Reggio, the ad- jacent coast of Calabria , and the gulf of Tarento ; and lastly, the boundless expanse of the Medi- terranean sea finishes this splendid and en- chanting prospect. THE ANCIENT TAUllOMINIUM. 247 After having devoted many hours in examin- ing these venerable ruins, we next turned our at- tention towards the other antiquities still exist- ing in this place, and which consist principally of the remains of an aqueduct and several reser- voirs, one of which is in a perfect state, and re- sembles in its construction and form a similar building at Baia near Naples , called la Piscina Mirabile. Although it is very doubtful whe- ther these reservoirs were introduced by the Greeks or Romans , yet this appears certain, that the one at Naples is of Roman , while those of Taormina are of Grecian workmanship. The churches of Taormina possess nothing remarkable, if we except the different species of marbles with which they are profusely de- corated : and in the convent of Dominicans , where we resided, is a large court surrounded with columns of a brown marble interspersed with streaks of white. The simple architecture of this cloister, and of the convent generally, forms a singular contrast with the almost sa- vage wildness of the majestic mountains, which seem as it were every moment to threaten im- pending ruin. We observed in the environs of Taormina 248 TAORMINA, several ancient tombs, square upon the plan: they are generally elevated upon a foundation of three or four steps, and finished with stucco ; and are likewise decorated with pilasters at the angles. The ornaments of these tombs partaking much of the Homan style, it is therefore very pro- bable they are of an age posterior to Caisar , who chased away the original inhabitants of this city, and established a Roman colony in their place. A view of the magnificent mountain scenery of Taormina , as it appears from the north-eastern side of the rock, whereon stand the remains of the theatre, is here annexed, in order more fully to illustrate our remarks upon this truly ro- mantic situation. The origin of the ancient Tauvominium is unknown. We find it mentioned, however, in history, as being conquered by Dionysius in the ninety-fourth Olympiad, or about 403 B. C. Previously to leaving Taormina , we once more visited that most splendid and superb monument of antiquity, the theatre, and after bidding its delightful site adieu, we descended the steep and rugged mountain, and embarked on board our speronara. The wind being now very favourable, and the weather extremely fine, THE ANCIENT TAUROMIN1UM. 249 no time was lost in hoisting the sails and pro- ceeding to sea : our boat keeping' close in with the shore, enabled us to enjoy a succession of the most delightful prospects, especially of the environs of Capo San Alesso and Capo della Sca- letta. We now began to enter the celebrated Faro , and beheld Reggio and the mountains of Calabria rising majestically before us : but in consequence of the wind and current being' ad- verse, the sea became rather rough, indeed so much so, that our capitano ordered the crew to lie down. The breeze, however, still freshening, our speronara was carried along, notwithstand- ing the opposition it encountered from the in- creased agitation and turbulence of the waves, at the rate of seven knots or miles per hour. We soon passed the frightful Charybdis , so much dreaded by the ancients, and after dou- bling the extreme point of land, entered the capacious harbour of Messina , and ultimately landed at the Ccisadi Sanita , or office of health, situated upon the charming Marina , which borders this delightful bay, with spirits not a little elated at having performed a voyage, considered by Sicilian mariners as extremely dangerous, especially when made in an open boat, and under the like circumstances of wind and current in opposite directions. CHAPTER XXIII. MESSINA. Cathedral — Piazza di San Giovanni di Malta — Palace of the Viceroy — Citadel — General Observations. Messina is unlike many other cities in Sicily, which present only an external appearance of grandeur: in fact, it possesses almost every quality which can entitle it to rank among the first in FAirope. Wide and capacious streets and squares ; grand and magnificent churches and public buildings; bronze and marble sta- tues, and fountains, form the principal features of this delightfully situated city. The principal church or cathedral was erected by Count Roger in the eleventh cen- tury, and is considered a good specimen of the then Gothic style ; the interior is profusely en- MESSINA. 251 riched and decorated, and contains some ex- tremely fine antique columns of granite : it was dedicated to the Holy Virgin, under the title of La Madonna della Letter a. The following most extraordinary event gave rise to this singular title, the subject of which is represented in basso-relievo , worked in gold and silver on the front of the great altar : with respect to this circumstance, tradition informs us, that in the first years of the Christian era, Saint Paul visited Taurominium , and there preached his doctrines: his reputation, however, soon reach- ing Messina , many of the inhabitants who went to hear him immediately became proselytes to the truth of that religion which the holy apostle so eloquently taught. The number of faithful increasing, the Messinians determined upon sending deputies to the Holy Virgin to solicit the honour of her benign protection ; to which, as tradition further relates, the mother of our blessed Saviour graciously replied by letter, wherein she assured them of her favour, and also promised to intercede for them with her beloved Son: the Holy Virgin deigned even to send some locks of her hair by the hands of the deputies, who also brought with them her por- trait. We were gravely informed, that the letter is still preserved in the tabernacle of the 252 MESSINA. cathedral, and that the hair of the Holy Virgin is likewise inclosed within a vase of crystal: the portrait also exists, and is conspicuously placed in front of the principal altar. These reliques are duly exhibited during the solemnization of certain religious fetes , and especially during the continuance of any public calamity. It is the practice in Sicily to decorate in the most profuse and gaudy manner the principal altars of their churches. Such is the style in which the altar of this cathedral is or- namented, and although displaying no taste, yet it merits notice from the richness of the materials. A very considerable portion is com- posed of lapis lazzuli , and mosaic work in pietre dure: the stones of which this latter spe- cies of work is composed are of the greatest rarity and value. The piazza or square in front of the cathedral is ornamented with a handsome fountain, and an equestrian statue of Charles the Second of Spain. The various convents and religious houses in this city are of a superior class, and the churches generally are copiously enriched ; the MESSINA. 253 walls and pilasters being covered with such a variety of marbles, that at first, view they are generally mistaken for silk of different colours. Among the different public places at Mes- sina , there is none more frequented than that of San Giovanni di Malta, and it is in this square that they celebrate the fete of the holy letter. This grand ceremony opens by a dis- play of fireworks from a rich galley, which is constructed on the basin of the fountain situated in the centre of the square. This galley is introduced to remind the people of Messina of an extraordinary favour formerly shewn by the blessed Virgin, their protectress. Tradition relates, that many centuries since, at the period of this sacred festival, a scarcity of corn having arisen in consequence of the great concourse of strangers who were attracted to the city, the religious devotees then assembled had recourse to public prayers, and on the morning of the grand day they beheld the wel- come sight of three vessels laden with corn entering the harbour. The com was imme- diately purchased, and deposited in the maga- zines, after which the people went to the port for the purpose of satisfying the masters, but neither they nor their ships could be found ! 254 MESSINA. When this circumstance was known, no person doubted that the corn was a present from heaven, and, in order to acknowledge this pledge of divine favour, the senate ordered three ships to be made of silver, which were presented as a votive offering to the Holy Virgin ; while the clergy of Messina imposed an annual tax upon the different members of their own body to pay the expenses of con- structing this galley, which, as we were in- formed, is richly decorated, armed with three guns, and furnished with masts, sails, and rigging. The fete continues five days, during the evenings of which the galley is splendidly illuminated, and the whole is terminated by another grand display of fireworks. The palace, formerly occupied by the vice- roys of Sicily when they resided in this city, is erected in a style at once noble and magni- ficent ; it is situated next to the delightful bay, and commands an extensive view, not only of the harbour with its forest of masts, but also of the citadel, which was constructed by the Emperor Charles the Fifth, of Sicily from Capo di Faro almost to Syracusa, and of the cele- brated strait of Messina , Reggio , and the Ca- labrian coast. The accompanying view, taken MESSINA. 255 from an elevated station, will shew in a slight manner the situation of Messina , together with the Faro , Reggio , and the coast of Calabria. In the front of this building, placed on an elevated pedestal, is a statue of Don John of Austria , natural son of Charles the Fifth, which was erected by a decree of the senate of Mes- sina, , in memory of the naval victory which this prince obtained over the Turks at Lepanto y in the year 1571. We found in Messina other public places equally embellished with sumptuous palaces and buildings, and we may say that the city is not only well built, but also well peopled, inasmuch as it contains nearly eighty thousand inhabitants. Near the palace of the viceroy is a charming promenade, shaded by luxuriant foliage, under which the Messinians can walk at all hours, without being exposed to the scorching rays of the sun. This covered path leads to the superb citadel, which is not only a regtilarly con- structed fortress, but is likewise very strong, and from its peculiar situation commands equally the city and the port. The tongue of land on 256 M ESSfNA. which it is built is one of the happiest works of nature, for it may >e said that the most able engineer could no have devised a plan more appropriate for rendering the harbour se- cure. The citadel itsellis almost entirely sur- rounded by the sea, and s well defended, espe- cially next the Faro : it vould be capable of a long defence, inasmuch is it is not commanded by any place on the land side. The port of Messina , a plan of which is an- nexed*, is likewise defeided by two other for- tresses, that of the Lantime , situated in front of Reggio , and that of Sin Salvador , placed at the extremity of the toigue of land ; but its principal defence, and tiat which would ef- fectually prevent it from being bombarded, is the difficulty of anchoiage throughout the * References to the Plan ojthe Port of Messina. 1. Palace of the vreroy. 2. Barracks. 3. Porto Franco. 4. Public promenale. 5. Citadel. 6 . Covered way. 7. Lazzaretto. 8. Lighthouse and fort. 9. Fort San Salvacbr. MESSINA. *257 greater part of the strait. It seems as if nature, aided by the invulnerable Charybdis , guarded the security of this harbour, which is assuredly the finest and most extensive in the Mediterra- nean ; and is between six and seven miles in circumference. There are considerable ruins of many build- ings yet existing in various parts of Messina, the wrecks of that dreadful convulsion of na- ture, the earthquake, which almost destroyed this city and its vicinity, on the 5th of February, 1783. The melancholy appearance of these ruins produced in our minds sentiments of pro- found veneration for the secret decrees of an all-wise Providence, similar in every respect to those which we were impressed with when viewing the awful remains of a like dreadful event in the city of Lisbon. With respect to ancient monuments, there is scarcely a city in Sicily that possesses fewer, and we may almost regret with Cicero , the great loss it sustained through the removal of some fine Grecian statues by the avaricious Vei'res. The orator particularly alludes to those contained in the palace of a certain Cams Heins , which was regarded as the chief orna- s 258 MRSSINA. ment of the city : this Heius had assembled in a small temple many statues and altars that he held from his ancestors, of the whole of which Ferres forcibly possessed himself. These statues were the productions of the most celebrated sculptors of antiquity, and comprised a Cupid in marble, from the masterly hands of Praxi- teles ; a Hercules in bronze, finely cast, the work of the famous Myron; and two elegantly formed bronze figures of exquisite beauty by Polycletus , representing young virgins bearing- votive offerings on their heads. Before leaving Sicily , we shall offer a few general remarks on men and manners, as they presented themselves to our observation. In the first place, the religion of the country, which is catholic, occupies too considerable a station, and embraces by far too much of the public wealth : it also greatly encourages in- dolence, inasmuch as in some places nearly one fifteenth of the population is attached to its service, which is, most undoubtedly, the cause of so much of the land remaining uncultivated* The remarks introduced in different parts of this work, as to their religious fetes and pro- cessions, will suffice to shew the degree of bigotry and superstition which still prevails ; MESSINA. 259 and while the clergy, as is now the case, pos- sess almost supreme authority over their tem- poral as well as their spiritual affairs, there can be no hope of improvement. As to the population of the island generally, it is certainly upon the decline : this arises principally from so many persons belonging to the church being constrained to lead a life of celibacy. According to a census made a few years since, the number of individuals amounted to little more than one million seven hundred thousand : what a sad falling off does this cir- cumstance present from that period, when, ac- cording to ancient records, the city of Syracusa alone contained no less than one million eight hundred thousand inhabitants ! We have be- fore observed on the extremely low state of their productions in mechanics and manufac- tures ; and as to the fine arts, the Sicilians, with very few exceptions, appear to possess but little taste for their cultivation. We cannot, however, suffer this opportunity to pass without noticing the great civility and attention which we invariably received from the members of the different religious orders, whether while visiting them, or residing in s 2 260 MESSINA. their convents; especially at Alcamo , Gir genii, Noto , and Taormina. Much has been said by different writers on Sicily, of the necessity for travellers engaging an escort or guard to protect them from the numerous banditti which infest the interior: we are happy, however, in being able to state’ that, during our tour through the island we did not find it necessary to have any other person in our company than the muleteer or guide. The country in this particular instance there- fore appears to have become more civilised than it was thirty years ago. The peasantry of Sicily are a hardy race, and might become valuable subjects under a better regulated government : in general they are sober, industrious, and honest, and are ex- tremely partial to the English nation. Many of the nobility take a pride in imitating our manners, and hypothetically say, that if they could but succeed in establishing a constitution on broad and liberal principles like the Magna Charta of England , they should then be truly happy, The climate of the whole island is soft and MESSINA* 261 temperate, especially in the immediate vicinity of Messina , which is at once sheltered from the cold bleak w inds of winter by the surround- ing' mountains, and refreshed during- the sultry heats of summer by the breezes of the neigh- bouring Faro . In fact, this city and its beau- tiful environs are in general allowed to be an advantageous situation for those persons who are recommended to reside in a warm climate for the recovery of that inestimable blessing, health. CHAPTER XXIV. Faro of Messina — Melazzo — The Moll an or Lipari Isles — Bay of Naples. A Sicilian brig, at this time in the harbour, being on the eve of sailing with passengers for Naples , whither it was our intention also to proceed, we lost no time in seeing the capitano, and engaging a passage: and as this vessel was not to proceed to sea until the subsequent day, we hired a boat, and once more visited the terrible Charyhdis , which, as Homer says, “three times every day absorbs the bitter wave, and three times casts it back again with a fearful noise / 5 Although the sea was now extremely tranquil, yet the continual oscillation of the waters within its vortex was very apparent ; in fact, this tremendous gulf is in a state of in- cessant agitation. We read in ancient authors of Scylla and Charyhdis swallowing all vessels that came FARO OF MESSINA. 263 within their vortex, and Virgil especially ha* finely described the navigation of this cele- brated Faro , particularly in depicting the si- tuation of the vessel when passing over these horrible gulfs. “ Tollimur in coelum curvato gurgite : et iidem Subducta ad manes imos deseendimus unda. Ter scopuli clamorem inter cava saxa dedere ; Ter spumam elisam, et rorantia vidimus astra.” “ To heaven, aloft, on ridgy waves we ride, Then down to hell descend, when they divide: And thrice our galleys knock’d the stony ground. And thrice the hollow rocks return’d the sound. And thrice we saw the stars that stood with dews around.” Dryden. Notwithstanding the manifest danger of diving in the vicinity of these gulfs, yet we understood at Messina, that there had been men courageous, or rather, presumptuous enough to approach them : the inhabitants still speak of a famous diver named Colas , who passed the half of his life in the water, and swam with such facility, that he obtained the surname of the pesce, or fish. His reputation, however, was ultimately purchased at the ex- pense of his life ; for King Frederic wishing to witness his exploits, threw a golden cup into 264 FARO OF MESSINA. the Chary bdis : Colas immediately precipitated himself twice into the tremendous vortex, and twice succeeded in rising with the cup ; but the king again throwing it into the part the most agitated, the poor pesce was overcome, and reappeared no more : no doubt he was carried away by the irresistible force of the currents, his body being’ found some days after aboiu thirty miles distant. We cannot help thinking his majesty might have found a better and a more dignified amusement, than urging a needy wretch to desperate enterprises, which w ere but too likely to have a fatal termination* We embarked on board the brig on Tuesday the 13th of June, and very reluctantly bade adieu to Messina. We steered our course to- wards the Calabrian coast, and passed near the terrific Scylla, so terrible to the mariners of antiquity. After doubling Capo di Faro , the vessel kept close in w ith the Sicilian shore, and arrived at Melazzo before sun-set : this little voyage was delightfully pleasant. The object of our touching at this place was for the pur- pose of increasing our passengers, although we were already so numerous, as to render our re- posing at the same time, even in the hold, wholly impracticable. MELAZZO. 265 We remained at M elazzo till the Thursday morning 1 , during which time we visited the castle and fortifications, which are erected upon a rock of considerable elevation : this place is strong, not only by its natural position, but also by the assistance which art has ren- dered ; and from its peculiar situation, it cer- tainly may be considered the Gibraltar of Sicily . There is a tunny fishery established at this place, and although they took none while our vessel remained here, we however enjoyed the satisfaction of seeing a sword fish made pri- soner : this fish was exceedingly voracious, and would have forced a hole through the side of the boat, had not the men immediately de- prived it of life ; it was about five feet six inches in length, exclusive of the sword, which is formed by an elongation of the upper jaw projecting full two feet and a half. We par- took of this fish several times during our stay at Messina , stewed in a very particular manner, and it most undoubtedly possessed a fine fla- vour, and was otherwise extremely good. After taking in the additional passengers, chiefly females following their husbands, who were officers in the royal Sicilian guards, to 266 L1PAR1 ISLES. Naples, we weighed anchor, doubled the pro- montory, and stood out to sea. As the Sicilian shore receded further and further from our view, till we finally lost sight of it, our hearts felt considerable despondency ; inasmuch as we were quitting a country where the inhabitants ge- nerally were honest, respectful, and attentive, and where we had experienced the greatest ci- vility and politeness from the superior ranks of society ; a country not only exceedingly abund- ant in antiquities, but possessing also so many extraordinary phenomena of nature ; a country rich in luxuriant, rural, and romantic views, and above all, extremely fertile ; in fact, a country, excepting in constitution and government, combining every thing agreeable, charming, and beautiful. The passage from Sicily to the isles of Lipari , departing from Melazzo , occupies only a few hours when the wind is favourable, as the distance does not exceed thirty miles. These isles, from the various phenomena which they present, unquestionably deserve the attention not only of the curious traveller, but of the scientific naturalist. We meet in this archi- pelago of fire, in these islands evidently the production of this raging element, with nu- LI PA 111 ISLES. 267 merous volcanos, producing all the various effects of volcanic mountains, and in particular with one, Stromboli , which is in a state of con- tinual agitation, and enjoys not a moment of calmness or tranquillity. On approaching the Lipari isles, they ex- hibit an austere and menacing aspect. They are eleven iff number, and are named as fol- low : Lipari) Volcano , Salini , Panama, Bazo- luzzo , Lisca-nera, Lisca-bianca , Datolo, Strom - boll, Alicuda , and Felicuda. They were called by the ancients the JEolian , but at the present day they are better known by that of the Lipari isles. Although it was not in our power to dis- embark and visit these isles, yet we cannot refrain from inserting some particulars respect- ing them, chiefly drawn from the work of M. de Dolomieu , who wrote about forty years since. This celebrated French naturalist commences his account with the one nearest to Sicily , the isle of Volcano , which is near half a mile in height, and about twelve in circumference; it is in the form of a cone, and extremely steep on both sides. 268 L I PA It I ISLES. rile different observations made by M. de Dolomieu, and especially the great sound pro- duced by some blows of a hammer, proved that there was only a very slight covering over this immense abyss. The declivity of the mountain is very great, and is wholly covered with loose cinders, which render the access to its summit of more difficulty than is expe- rienced in ascending the majestic Etna. The crater of this volcano does not occupv exactly the centre of the cone ; it is placed a little towards the south, and before reaching the summit, there is a level area about sixty paces wide, in which are many apertures that communicate directly with its interior. These cavities are lined with sulphur, and constantly give vent to a stream of white, thick, and al- most suffocating smoke: and doubtless the black vitreous lava observable on this side pioceeded from them. This species of vitreous lava being more frequently met with in the Lipari isles than upon Etna or Vesuvius , al- most proves, that the fire which produces them must be in greater activity; it is extremely hard, and the si lex which forms one of its com- ponent parts, being placed in contact w ith brick, immediately produces fire. LIPARI ISLES. 269 From this level area there is a pathway lead- ing- to the mouth of the most magnificent, or rather the most terrific crater; and in order not to weaken the description, we shall insert the picture of it in the exact words of M. de Dolomieu. “ C'est une excavation qui a la forme exact d’un entonnoir, dont l’ouverture seroit un peu ovale ; sa profondeur est a-peu-pr^s £gale a la hauteur de la nouvelle montagne, c’est-a-dire quelle peut etre d’un mille ; son plus grand diam&tre me parut d’un demi-mille, et son moindre diam^tre de quatre cents cinquante pas ; elle est terminee dans le fond par une petite plaine, qui peut avoir cinquante pas de diam&tre; la pente des parois interieurs est extr&mement roide, de mani&re qu’il seroit im- possible de descendre dans le fond, quand m&me on n’auroit pas le risque du feu a courir. D’ailleurs qu’y gagneroit, et qu’y verroit-on de plus ? Cette vaste cavite est tres-r6guli£re, elle ne derobe a l’oeil rien de ce qu’elle contient, et j’avoue qu’elle fut pour moi un des spectacles les plus grands et les plus imposans que la nature m’eut encore present^. Ce crater fait une im- pression plus vive sur l’imagination que celui de I'Etna, qui est beaucoup plus vaste, mais moins 270 LTPARI ISLES. profond et moins r^gulier. Je restai tr£s-long- temps a admirer celui-ci, et & faire rouler dans Fint^rieur de grosses pierres que je trouvai sur les l&vres, et dont la chute par la roideur de la pente, apr£s avoir produit dans le fond un tr^s-grand bruit, faisoit retentir et fremir la montagne ; elles entrainoient avec elles des soufres sublimes et attaches aux pierres de l’in- terieur de cet entonnoir : ces pierres, en arri- Vant dans la petite plaine, paroissoient s’en- foncer dans une fluide, et je vis alors avec ma lunette que ce fond contenoit deux especes de petits lacs, que je jugeai etre pleins de soufre fondu, que je voyois couler sans cesse des parois contre lesquels il s’etoit sublim6; car je he puis croire qu’il y ait de l’eau dans cette plaine brulante, elle y seroit a Finstant reduite en vapeur*.” * “ It is an excavation in the form of a funnel, having a mouth rather oval; its profundity is nearly equal to the height of the mountain, that is to say, about a thousand paces : the greatest diameter appeared about five hundred^ and the less four hundred and fifty ; it is terminated in the bottom by a little plain having a diameter of fifty : and the slope of the interior face is so extremely craggy and steep, as to render it impossible to descend, even if there were no risk of fire. Besides, what would be gained ? or what should we discover more ? This vast cavity is very regular, and I confess that it was the grandest and most imposing LI PAR I ISLES. 271 M. de Dolomieu , after having examined the different stones which surrounded this volcano, descended from the summit : he met with many fissures, out of which issued a continual smoke, accompanied by a strong sulphurous exhalation, and the impression of internal fires being the principle and source of these won- derful phenomena were visible even to the sea, where the sand, although covered with water, preserved a great degree of heat. There are places round the island where the sea itself is so warm, that it is hardly possible to retain it within the hand. In the immediate vicinity of this island, and spectacle nature had ever presented to my view. This crater made a more lively impression upon the imagination than that of Etna, which, although much more extensive, is still less profound and less regular. I remained some time ad- miring this crater, and rolling down the interior large stones, whose fall from the steepness of the slope produced a great noise j they gathered as they fell sulphur that was attached to the interior of this crater. These stones on arriving in the little plain appeared. to enter a fluid, and I distinctly perceived with my telescope that there were two small lakes, which I judged to be full of sublimated sulphur, that ran continually from the sides : it was impossible to suppose they were composed of water, because such a fluid would be instantaneously converted into vapour.” 272 LI PARI ISLES. more particularly in the N. E. part where the disembarkation was effected, bubbles of air con- tinually rise out of the sea, which on arriving- at its surface, immediately break : they greatly re- semble those which are produced by the boiling of water. Pliny and Strabo speak of this ebul- lition, and attribute it to the extreme heat of the contiguous volcanos ; but M. de Dolomieu, how- ever, thinks on the contrary, that this strange phenomenon may with more reason arise from the fixed air, which is produced in great abundance, especially during the periods of internal fermentation. Lipari is situated about a mile to the north- east of Volcano , and is about eighteen miles in circumference : the canal or strait which sepa- rates them is very deep. This island is ex- tremely irregular in form as well as surface, and contains several insulated mountains com- posed of various strata. The different stones and strata of earth present such a variety of features, as to create a considerable doubt as to the cause of their original formation : some of the stones having the appearance of silex, while others are wholly calcareous ; in a word, every thing is so opposite and contradictory, as to confuse the most able naturalist: even M. de LIPARI ISLES. 273 Dolomieu employed two days before he was satisfied that the island was of volcanic pro- duction. One of the many phenomena which indicate the present agency of fire, is the heat subsisting in their sudatorii , or species of stoves ; in some of them this heat is so great, as to render it wholly impossible to enter. These sudatorii , which are about five feet square, and rather more in height, are formed in the rocks towards the west, and in a part extremely steep: a strong sulphureous odour points out their re- spective situations, and from fissures in the rocks immediately near them issue continually burning vapours which assume the form of a dense smoke. These stoves, although formed in a very primitive manner, would be salutary in many disorders; but they are so extremely incon- venient, so devoid of every thing necessary, that they are but seldom frequented ; in fact, it is rather difficult to obtain accommodation in the island. The vapours with which they are penetrated are humid, and they vary occa- sionally in their temperature, experiencing all the vicissitudes of volcanos. T I 274 li pah i isles; About three hundred feet above these stoves is a source of water, whose heat is very great, which produces a supply sufficient to work three mills ; from this stream arises a smoke of an extremely dense nature, and the water re- tains its heat for some time after putting the wheels of these mills in motion : the inhabit- ants use it, when cold, for domestic purposes, there being no other spring in the island. This stream is supposed to have some connexion itli the hot baths, which were well known to the ancients, who used them as well for plea- sure and voluptuousness, as for curing maladies of various kinds ; at the present moment, how- ever, they are deserted for the same reason as has been before mentioned, the want of proper establishments for the accommodation of in- valids. It is incontestable, from the nature of the productions with which the isle of Lipari is so abundantly covered, as well as from the; component parts of the several mountains, that it is of volcanic formation ; and although the subterraneous fires are now apparently tranquil, very little would be sufficient to rekindle them in all their former violence and activity. Judging from what the ancients have said concerning- this island, we could not have con-! LI PART ISLES. 275 ceivecl that it was so abundantly fertile, espe- cially in fruits, possessing the most delicious flavour. Cicero speaks of it as being wholly uncultivated, and perhaps from the violence of the fires, and the excessive fermentation the whole island then constantly experienced, it was less favourable to vegetation ; but for a long time past it has been extremely fruitful, especially in the vine and fig. The culture of the former is the principal object of rural eco- nomy among the inhabitants, the conversion of the soil to this purpose being the most pro- fitable to them : they require considerable attention, and are supported by a trellis or slight structure oflaths, with a flat top or roof about three feet from the ground. To this trellis the vines attach and entwine their branches, and from the air having such free circulation, they are not only prevented from early decay- ing, but are likewise preserved from humidity: this mode of culture materially assists the grapes in hanging a sufficient time to arrive at fidl maturity. The inhabitants of Lipari make several kinds of wine, all of excellent quality, espe- cially one named Malvoisie , which is met with in perfection at Naples. The produce of the t 2 27G II PAR I ISLES. greater part of the vines is, however, reserved for dry fruit, named uva passa , or in other Words, raisins ; and the method adopted for this purpose, is to place the grapes, when they are ripened, in an alkaline lie of ashes, more or less impregnated with salt, according to the maturity of the grape, and then, for the purpose of more effectually drying, they are exposed to the meridian sun. The object of this lie is to absorb the acidity of the fruit, in order that the luscious portion of the juice may be better en- abled to crystallise itself, and thus become less liable to attract humidity. The fruit used for this purpose is of two sorts, the one rather small, of a dark colour, and without stones, these are the most delicate, and, consequently, are in the greatest demand ; the other, rather of a yellowish cast, longer, and containing stones ; these are called the ordinary raisin. The population of the island amounts to nearly fourteen thousand persons, the far greater part occupying the town of Lipai'i, the capital of all the isles. This place is mean in its appearance, extremely ill-built, and situated close to the sea upon a cape of the same name, which is singularly and strongly fortified by its own natural position. LI PA HI ISLES. 277 About two miles to the north-west of Lipari is the isle of Salmi , which is nearly oval in form, and about, twelve miles in circumference : its name is derived from some salt-pits on the shore towards the south-east, which furnish enough of this essential article for the con- sumption of the neighbouring islands. It con- tains three insulated mountains, which are elevated, and whose summits form as it were a triangle : and the valley situated between them is extremely fertile, greatly resembling the ter- ritory round the base of Etna. Although the formation of this island may certainly be at- tributed to fire, yet the volcanos have ceased to exist for many ages, as no poet, historian, or geographer of antiquity, have ever mentioned them : upon the summit of the mountains, however, traces of craters are still visible, as well as various currents of lava, which are hard, and resemble porphyry in their general com- position, the grain being extremely fine, with- out any pores, and its colour rather of a reddish cast, spangled with numerous white spots. From the summit of the highest mountain in Salini may be clearly distinguished two other islands, Alicuda and Fdicuda , situated about ten and fifteen miles more to the westward : 278 LI PARI ISLES. the one and the other composed of a single mountain, about ten miles in circumference. These isles contain but few inhabitants, whose occupation consists chiefly in cultivating the vine. The isle of Panaria, which is next in suc- cession, particularly deserves notice, from a discovery made by M. de Dolomieu , which ap- pears infinitely curious, and seems to have escaped the attention of preceding naturalists. ' 1 his isle, according to all appearances, was the Evonymos of the ancients, and is about eight miles in circumference : it presents on a first inspection the appearance of a simple mountain, and is of less elevation than the neighbouring isles ; but on a more close exa- mination of the side towards the south-east, it presents a kind of circular face or segment of an arc, which the neighbouring' isles, Baziluzzo, Lisca-bianca, Lisca-nera , and Datolo , likewise possess, and form together, as is shewn in the accompanying plan * an irregular circle, diverging as it were from one common centre. M. de Dolomieu does not hesitate to assert, that this little archipelago is the remains or * Vide page 2S0. LI PAll I ISLES. 279 detached portions of a vast crater, whose aper- ture now lies concealed in the bosom of the mighty waters, and which was more extensive than any at present existing in this part of the globe. Independently of the peculiar form of these islands, there is also a great similarity in £dl their component parts, and the whole of them are certainly of volcanic origin, inasmuch as they bear evident marks of fire : and as ex- perience proves that all volcanic mountains are formed by their own natural eruptions, so, con- sequently, there must be a crater out of which the matter must have been emitted. There is nothing, however, in these isles which in the least indicates the existence of one, and there- fore this additional circumstance tends mate- rially to confirm the opinion entertained by M. de Dolomicu. This observation, absolutely new upon the form and nature of their construction, satis- factorily explains the reason why ancient au- thors, when speaking of the JRolian isles, men- tion only seven, consequently this little archi- pelago must then have been united, and formed one island. A slight sketch, shewing the par- 280 LI PARI ISLES. ticular situation of these isles, is introduced for the purpose of more fully illustrating these remarks. The only part of the isle Panaria which is inhabited is the valley in the interior face : it is extremely fertile, and contains about three hundred persons, whose sole occupation con- sists in the culture of the vine and cotton. Stromboli is situated to the north-east of the other isles, and about, fifteen pailes distant from ■MNMi LIPARI ISLES. 281 Panaria. M. de Dolomieu arrived in the vicinity during the silence and obscurity of night, which enabled him fully to enjoy this most superb spectacle of nature. We may also observe, that as our brig was becalmed for two days and nights among these islands, we passed the latter upon deck, contemplating this wonderful and interesting phenomenon. We shall not, however, presume to offer a description of this beautiful, and at the same time terrific scene, but introduce a slight view of it, together with the account given by M. de Dolomieu in his own words, in order not to diminish the force of his rich and glowing style. “ Je m’en approchai pendant la nuit, avec d'autant plus d’empressement, et j’observai ses differens ph6nom£nes avec d’autant plus de- tention, que je savois que la clart6 du jour me priveroit d’une partie des circonstances int£r- ressantes de ce singulier volcan. Le crater enhamm6 est dans la partie du nord-ouest de l’isle, sur le flanc de la montagne. Je lui vis lancer pendant toute cette nuit, par intervalles regies de sept a huit minutes, des pierres en- flammees, qui s’elevoient a plus de cent pieds de hauteur, qui formoient des rayons un peu divergens, inais dont cependant la majeure 282 L 1 PARI ISLES. quantite retomboit dans le crater qui les avoit lancees; les autres rouloient jusques dans le mer. Cliaque explosion etoit accompagnee d’une bouffee de flammes rouges, semblables a celle qiie Ton produit dans nos spectacles par le moyen du camphre et de l’esprit-de-vin ; cette flamme duroit quelquefois quatre ou cinq minutes, et s’eteignoit tout-d’un-coup. Un bruit sourd semblable a celui d’une mine qui eprouve peu de resistance, se faisoit entendre, mais il n arrivoit a loreille que quelque temps apres l’explosion, et quoiqu’il en fut l’effet, il en paroissoit independant. Les pierres lancees out une couleur d’un rouge vif, et sont etince- lantes, elles font 1’effet des feux d’artifice*.” * “ I approached Stromboli during the night, with so » much the more eagerness, and observed its different pheno- mena with so much the more attention, knowing that the clearness of day would deprive me of some interesting par- ticulars of this singular volcano. The enflamed crater is situated in that part of the isle which is towards the north- west upon the dank of the mountain. I observed it emit during the night, at regular intervals of about seven or eight minutes, stones, which elevated themselves to the height of one hundred feet, forming rays a little diverging ; the greater number of these stones, however, returned into the crater which had emitted them, while the remainder i oiled into the sea. livery explosion was accompanied with a mass of flame, somewhat similar to that produced in our LIPAlll ISLES. 283 This isle in form is perfectly conical, which, no doubt, was the cause of the ancients calling it Strongyle ; this name has since been con- verted into its modern appellation of Stromboli. The isle is terminated by two summits of dif- ferent heights, very steep, and is about twelve miles in circumference ; it affords only one place where a landing may be effected, and that is situated towards the north-east, where the base is prolonged, and presents rather the appear- ance of an inclined plane. This little plain or valley is the only part susceptible of culture, and produces excellent fruits and some cotton, the exchange of which procures subsistence for about two hundred persons, who live like so many salamanders in perfect security, although constantly exposed to eruptions immediately over their heads. Stromboli is the only volcano known which maintains an incessant activity, and the manner theatres by means of camphor and spirits of wine: this flame continues about four or five minutes, and then becomes suddenly extinct. A loud noise is heard some time after each explosion, and although the effect, it appears wholly independent. The stones thrown out are of a sparkling red colour, and produce a similar effect to that of artificial fireworks.” 284 LI PAR I ISLES. of its explosions has no resemblance with other volcanos : ordinarily they are announced by a subterraneous noise, the avant-coureur of an eruption, and generally preceded by clouds of thick smoke mingled with flame : on the con- trary, the eruptions of this singularly formed mountain take place at certain regular in- tervals ; and from the summit which over- looks this enflamed crater, the exact period between each may be accurately ascertained ; it is about seven minutes. From the superior light of the sun, no flame is visible during the day, only a thick white smoke, which soon vanishes in the atmosphere. The stones emit- ted from this volcano, when seen at night, are of a bright and lively red, but by day they ap- pear perfectly black : the various matters being elevated perpendicularly, the greater part of course return into the crater ; this may serve to explain why men are found so courageous as to inhabit this island. We learn that the ancients placed the par- lace of JEolus in the isle of Stromboli , and the forges of Vulcan in that of Lipari , which latter was considered under the immediate protection of this deity. Ancient medallions incontestibly prove this circumstance, many of them bearing BAY OF NAPLES. 285 an impression of the god covered with a coarse kind of helmet, and representing on the re- verse, sometimes two, three, or six balls wholly unconnected, and sometimes two united by a bar, similar in every respect to the chain-shot of the present day. After passing the second night in the vicinity of Stromboli , and again beholding it in all its terrific grandeur, a favourable breeze sprung up, which soon enabled our vessel to make the Neapolitan coast near the gulf of Salerno. W e now enjoyed some of the most beautiful land- scapes, consisting of the romantic scenery encir- cling this gulf, backed by the receding moun- tains of the Apennines , which presented them- selves under the most enchanting forms. As we progressively advanced over the surface of the deep, these extensive and magnificent prospects of course experienced constant changes, thus producing a succession of interesting views, not unworthy the pencil of a Claude. Having passed the gulf, and doubled the pro- montory, Punta della Campanella , we majestically entered the delightful bay of Naples , having on one side this bold cape, and on the other the isle of Capri. As we opened the bay, it dis- 286 BAY OF NAPLES. played itself decked with so many and such great beauties, as induced us unhesitatingly to exclaim, that it was decidedly superior to the highly extolled views of the mighty Lisbon , the superb Genoa , the fascinating Palermo , or the noble Messina. The strait between the promontory and the island, a distance of three miles, forms the southern entrance to this bay, and the island is so situated, as most effectually to supply the place of a mole, equally so with that stu- pendous undertaking, the breakwater at Ply- mouth Sound: it lies almost parallel with the city of Naples , and seems as if planted for the purpose of breaking the violence of the waves; consequently it contributes very materially to the security of the harbour. ^ tr b it, in describing his Libyan harbour, has given such a faithful portrait of the bay of Naples , that we cannot resist the pleasure of introducing* it. “ Est iu secessu longo locus : Insula portum Efficit objectu laterum, quibus omnis ab alto Erangitur, inque sinus scindit sese unda reductos : Hinc atque hinc vastae rapes geminique minantur In eoelum scopuli, quorum sub vertice late ISAY OF NAPLES. 287 yEqUora tuta silent ; turn silvis scena eoruscis Desuper, horrentique atrum nemus imminet umbra.” “ Within a long recess there lies a bay. An island shades it from the rolling sea, And forms a port secure for ships to ride : Broke by the jutting land on either side. In double streams the briny waters glide Between two rows of rocks ; a silvan scene Appears above, and groves for ever green.” Dr YUEN. We now approached the interior of the harbour, sailing majestically on the smooth surface of the azure deep, and enjoying the un- describably beautiful amphitheatre of Naples, and its charming environs, heightened by the rich purple glow of the evening sun ; and having at length reached the spot where ves- sels generally anchor, we were soon visited by some officers of police, who stated that our disembarkation must be deferred till the mor- row, it being then too late to effect such a purpose. This was exceedingly fortunate, as it enabled us to witness from the sea the splendid illumination of the city, which oc- curred this evening on account of the restora- tion of King Ferdinand to his ancient throne. All round the bay, Naples seemed to rises 288 BAY OF NAPLES. from the silent darkness like a radiant crown of light ; and high above the rest, apparently in the air, stood, pre-eminently conspicuous, the castle of San Elmo , spreading its wide re- splendent rays over the dark blue sea. In- dependently of these artificial beauties, those of nature likewise assumed more than their ordinary appearance ; the cloudless lustre of the full moon, accompanied by innumerable stars, shed a celestial gleam upon the silvery bosom of the deep ; while the neighbouring capes and islands, the majestic mountains, and more especially the misty Vesuvius , appeared enveloped in the most agreeable and seductive shades of night. As may be supposed, the splendour of the illumined city, the delicious fineness of the night, the balsamic softness of the air, and above all, the confusion occasioned by up- wards of fifty persons being busily occupied in preparing to quit this wretched vessel, pre- vented any one from reposing. The author, therefore, anxiously awaited upon deck the arrival of fair Aurora , and her attendant nymphs : as this goddess gradually approached, the “ cloud capped” Vesuvius began to ap- pear, more and more distinct, and as the BAY OF NAPLES. 289 dew exhaled from off the earth, a succession of landscapes of such surprising magnificence and beauty presented themselves, as were al- together of a nature too sublime for language to describe. The author now respectfully bids adieu to his readers, not with the proverbial saying of the country, “ Vedete Napoli e poi morire !” see Naples and die ; but rather enthusiastically exclaiming, behold Naples and live ! “ Vedete Napoli e poi vivere !” THE END. U