• 'jk- * 4 % - ’ -t Vp* ipf (8 / i Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2015 https://archive.org/details/smithspracticaldOOsmit OomS . 65 '! 1680 PRICE THREE GUINEAS. CONXAINIHO FIVE HUNDRED DYED PATTERNS, TO EACH OF WHICH A GENUINE RECEIPT IS GIVEN. The Work comprises Practical Instructions in the DYEING OF SILK, COTTON. .YND WOOL, IN A RAW AND MANUFACTURED STATE, ALSO INSTRUCTIONS FOR DYEING PLAIN AND MIXED FABRICS, IH BINOJuK AND TWO COLOUHS, AND A OH£AT VAIUETY OF B£ONZ£8> ALSO RECEIPTS FOR MAKING ALL THE DYE SPIRITS WITH WHICH TO DYE EVERY COLOUR IN THE WORK. SEOOILTID EIDZTIOIT. By DAVID SMITH, Over and Manufacturing Chemist, HALIFAX. ENGLAND. All Dryaaltera. Manufacturing Chemists, and all Dealers In Aniline Colours should possess a Copy of this Work, to enable them to give instructions in the nature and use of their various Dyewares. MNDON : SIMPKIN, MARSHALL & Co., STATIONERS’ HALL COURT; W. T. EMMOTT, TEXTiLe OFFICE. Si. ANN’S SQUARE. 1880. fBNTERED AT BIATlONEns’ BALL.] ► o>-o5>»— oOi>-^0 «Qo-(o— .o> .sQe-(t< ■'9 WAL8H, 0£KGEAL PEINTEB, PORTLAND BTRBET, OAZJFAX» PREFACE To persons seeking to obtain a practical knowledge in the Art of Dyeing Silk, Cotton and Wool, in a Kaw or Manufactured state, I would say that through many pressing invitations from Home and Foreign Dyers and Manufacturers to publish a Second Edition of my Practical Dyer’s Guide, containing all the known Aniline Colours with which I am acquainted, and as my first edition is out of print, and the third edition of my “ Dyer’s Instructor” is nearly rim out, I have decided to publish a Second Edition of my Dyer’s Guide including all the receipts of both works, except such as are obsolete. This edition contains about 500 Dyed Patterns, including every known colour up to the present time; and to each of these patterns a receipt is given, shewing how to dye a colour like the pattern, on Silk, Cotton and Wool, in a Raw and Manu- factured state. The receipts give the mode of dyeing almost every sort of Goods, most of which I have dyed with my own hands, therefore they may be relied upon as genuine and correct. Having been for many years a Manufacturing Chemist as well as a Practical Dyer, I have given Receipts to make the Dye Spirits used to produce every colour in this work. At the time I was learning the Art of Dyeing, I would have paid any amount of money for such a work if one could have been obtained; but such a work could not then be obtained at any price. My work shows in a few lines how to dye a given weight of material with a given quantity of dye stuff, both in the “ Old ” and “New” mode of Dyeing. The old mode of dyeing the general colours is and will continue to be kept in use on account of the permanency of those colours. The Aniline Colours are as a rule more showy ; but they are not so durable. I have in this work given many receipts with dyed patterns for dyeing the perma- nent colours in the old mode of dyeing ; also many receipts wdth patterns showing how to dye the Aniline Colours on Silk, Cotton and Wool; from which any man of an ordinary capacity may obtain any given shade of colour. Where Fabrics are made of Cotton and Wool, I have given a receipt showing how to dye both the Cotton and the Wool the same colour, and where two different colours are required on the same fabric, I have given a receipt to dye the two colours ; and I may say that each colour is as distinctly shown as if the fabric had been woven with the warji of one colour and the weft of another. In a book of receipts on dyeing it is impossibe to include every thing that every Dyer desires; but in mine I have tried to meet all the requirements possible, and after doing so it may be wanting in some particulars to some Dyers. Whore 3 this is the case, I am wUling to give information to any subscriber, or to send him a receipt of any given colour or shade which is not in my book. New Colours are being continually introduced into the market by makers of Aniline Dyes ; and as a rule they give the mode of manipulating them, so that with my book and such information any Dyer may keep pace with the times in the dyeing world. I have written my book in language the most simple, using no technical terms. A man may understand my meaning and terms without a knowledge of Chemical Technicalities. My receipts tell the reader in a few words how to dye the Colour he requires, and how to make the dye spirits with which to dye it ; these are two of the principal things he requires, and with these and with two other things he may become an accomplished dyer. Those two things are good sight and good judgment. Having these he will know how to apply and vary the different quan- tities of the dye stuffs to be used to obtain any given shade of colour ; but without these no man can become a thorough good practical dyer. A man must have good sight to see the colour he has to dye, and he must have good judgment to know how to vary and apply the different dye stuffs and ingredients to be used in the dyeing of it. To obtain a given colour, a dyer of proper judgment has only to consider for one moment how much of the three primary colouring matters will be required to produce it ; for there are only “ three primary Colours.” From these used in varying quantities every shade of colour is obtained. For instance, if you want to dye a Bed Colour, say Scarlet, one sort of Red Colouring matter will produce it. For the Scarlet Colom- I will suppose you use Cochineal, which is a pure red colouring matter, or perhaps as nearly so as any I can name. This will produce a fine Red Scarlet without any other colouring matter ; but if you require a Yellow shade of Scarlet, you will have to add to the dye bath a very small quantity of Yellow colouring matter of some kind, say Fustic, or Flavine. It is in such a case where judgment on the part of the Dyer is required to know how much of the “Red” and how little of the “Yellow” colouring matter is really necessary to produce a bright lively shade of Scarlet. If you require a Yellow colour, you only require a sufficient quantity of some sort of Yellow colouring matter to produce it; but if you require an Orange shade of Yellow, you will have to add a small quantity of some sort of Red colouring matter. Here again, good judgment is required to know how much “Yellow” and how little “ Red ” colouring matter wiU give the desired shade of Orange colour. But it may be a “ Blue ” colour you desire to dye, and if so, you will require neither Red nor Yellow colouring matter to dye it: whether the colour be a light or dark one you only require Blue colouring matter to dye it. If you require a light shade of Blue, you only require a small quantity of some sort of Blue colouring matter to dye it ; but if a dark shade be required, you will have to use much of the Blue colouring matter. “Red,” “Yellow,” and “Blue,” are called “ simple colours,” but when these colouring matters are used in any proportion with each other, they are then called 4 “compound colours.” In such colours as greens for instance, where two of these colouring matters are used, or in Olives, Browns, and Drabs, where a quantity of all the three colouring matters are used in dyeing them. When you see a “Bed,” “Yellow,” or “Blue” colour, you say that is a “simple colour;” but when you see a Green, Olive, Brown, or Drab, you say that is a “compound colour.” It may be that you want to dye Green, and in that case you will have to use both “Blue” and “Yellow” colouring matter to produce it, but no red. If it be a Blue shade of Green, you will have to use much Blue and little Yellow colouring matter; but if it be a Yellow shade of Green, you will have to use much Yellow and but little Blue. Here again, judgment is required to know how much of each. Perhaps there is no colour with so many tints and hues as the Green ; but any of those tints and hues may be easily obtained by a dyer who has good sight and good judgment. When an Olive or a Brown shade is required, all the three primary colouring matters have to be used,- and used in the most varying quantities according to the shade of colour required. It may be that the Olive colour is only a little variation from the Green colour, in that case very little “ Red” colouring matter will be required to produce it; but if it be what we dyers call a “ Red Olive,” much “Red” colouring matter will have to be used to produce it, and perhaps not much Yellow ; but it may be one that will require as much body of Yellow colour- ing matter as of Red, and more or less of the Blue colouring matter: that will be according to the depth of the colour required. Here good judgment is particularly required to know how much of “ the three primary colouring matters ” is required to produce the desirable shade of Olive. If a Brown colour is required, the same ingredients will have to be used with other variations according to the required shade of Brown. If a light Brown be required, you will not have to use much of the Blue colouring matter, and perhaps not much yellow ; and in that case the colour will be principally made up of the “Red” colouring matter; but if a dark Brown is requhed, much “Blue” and much “Red,” and perhaps much “Yellow” colouring will be required to produce it. Such are the varying shades in a compound colour, and such are the various colouring matters, and such the various quantities of the dye wares used, that “good judgment” is required in a dyer at all times in the using of them. Drab colours vary as much, and perhaps more so than Olives and Drowns; but the three primary colouring matters are used in less proportions to produce them ; and it requires good judgment to apply them in the ever varying shades of Drabs. A dyer should if possible be able to see through the material he has to dye ; for he has to calculate how much of this and how much of that colouring matter every fibre of the fabric will require to make it what he desires it to be. Every thread will require its equal and proportionoie share of the colouring matter to be used to make the whole fabric solid and even. IVhen the practical dyer sees the pattern he has to “match;” or to which he has to dye his piece of cloth, he has to calculate in the eye of his mind how much 5 of this, and how much of that colouring matter will be required to produce the desired shade upon the weight of cloth to be dyed ; and therefore weighs out that quantity and puts it into his dye bath. When his dyewares are all dissolved, and his bath made ready, he enters his cloth and boils it for a length of time, (if it require boiling,) and if he find he has not given it a sufficient quantity to produce the desired shade of colour he adds more, it may be more Bed, more Yellow, or more Blue; and by this means he obtains the desired shade of colour whatever it may be. He has to make the cloth like the pattern sent to him by the Merhcant, and if he do his work well the pattern and the cloth will be both alike, so much so that no person can teU the colour of the one from the other. To do this a man must have “good sight” and “good judgment;” and with these, and with good dyewares, he will dye any colour that is presented to him. He may not know the chemical changes under which his dyewares go in obtaining the various colours; but he knows by daily practice that so much of this and so much of that colour- ing matter will produce the colours he has to dye, and that constitutes his special business. Perhaps the most clever Chemist, who well understands the nature and work- ing of all the dye stuSs could not “ match” a piece of cloth to a given pattern if his life depended upon his so doing : therefore the dyer has his place, and the chemist has his. It is well when a dyer has a good knowledge of Chemistry ; but few have, and yet there are many good dyers. A good dyer will turn a piece of cloth from one colour to another if it be desirable to do so as easily as dye any simple colour, except in cases where impossibilities lay in his way. When I was learning to dye some colours on a given class of goods, I had a growing desire to know how other sorts were dyed, and I find this is the case with every young man of progress. My book will give such men that knowledge ; for it deals in almost every sort of dyed goods. Any man who is a dyer of only one particular class of goods may know more about the dyeing of that particular class than I do, but perhaps one receipt in my book will be of more value to him than ten times the price of the book, especially where I give another mode of dyeing his particular class of goods with another sort of dyewares. In this new edition of my work on the Art of dyeing, I have given receipts with dyed patterns which I have dyed without the use of Sumac or Staunate of Soda, or any other astringent matter, some of which are beautiful. In addition to all the valuable information on the Art of dyeing, I have given the best mode of “ Extracting Burrs from Wool, and Cotton from Bags.” For my Patented Chemical Process of extracting Burrs from Wool and Cotton from Bags I have received three Medals from three different National Exhibitions; one from Codova, one from Paris, and one from Philadelphia, at which places I exhibited extracted Dyed Wools of many colours. CONTENTS. 6 CONTENTS. For Bancroft's Explanation of Technical Terms, see Page 236, WOOLS. No. No. 1 Bottle Green. 26 Chromed Green, 2 Cinnamon Drab. 27 Blue Claret. 3 True Olive. 28 Very Heavy Drab. 4 Fast Dark Green. 29 Middle Drab. 5 Middle Shade of Cali- 30 Dark Blue. fornia Colour. 31 Light California 6 Light Brown. Colour. 7 Drab. 32 Light Fawn Drab. 8 Drab. 33 Full Fawn Drab. 9 Slate Colour. 34 Yellow Slate Colour, 10 Fawn Drab. 35 Sage Drab. 11 Drab. 36 Good Full Drab. 12 Slate Colour. 37 Fine Olive Drab. 13 Olive Drab. 38 Light Chromed Green, 14 Drab. 39 Full Blue Drab. 15 Drab. 40 Common Drab. 16 Stone Drab. 41 Fawn Drab. 17 Full Slate Colour. 42 (Olive) Light Chromed 18 Green Drab. Green Olive. 19 Bright Shade of Cali- 43 Claret. fornia Colour. 44 Middle Green, 20 Lavender. 45 Yellow. 21 Red Lavender. 46 Orange. 22 Full Heavy Drib. 47 Scarlet. 23 California Green. 48 Royal Blue. 24 Full Dark Drab. 49 Saxon Blue. 25 Full Stone Drab. 50 Black, WOOLLENS. No. No. 51 Grain Scarlet. 68 Crimson. 52 Scarlet. 69 Sky Blue. 53 Aniline Scarlet. 70 Dove Colour. 54 Scarlet. 71 Green. 55 Lac Scarlet. 72 Royal Blue. 56 Scarlet. 73 Dark Royal Blue. 57 Scarlet. 74 Purple. 58 Orange. 75 Dark Brown. 59 Yellow. 76 Dark Brown. 60 Full Yellow or Amber. 77 Dark Claret Brown. 61 Salmon. 78 Peachwood Red. 62 Salmon. 79 Green. 63 Grain Rose. 80 Chestnut Brown. 64 Aniline Blue. 81 Dark Green. 65 Crimson. 82 Claret Brown. 66 Aniline Crimson. 83 Chromed Green, 67 Aniline Green. 84 Claret. i 7 CONTENTS. WOOLLENS. — Continued. 1 No. No. 85 Brown Olive, 93 Deep Orange. 86 Magenta. 94 Rose Colour. 87 Blue Purple. 95 Grain Scarlet. 88 Red Purple. 96 Green. 8!) Mauve. 97 Invisible Green. !)0 Drab. 98 Crimson. 91 Light Brown. 99 Royal Blue. 92 Yellow. 100 Logwood Blue. MERINOS. No. No. 101 'Royal Blue. 126 Maroon. 102 Dark Royal Blue. 127 Maroon. 103 Blue Shade of Grain 128 Light Claret. Maroon. 129 Middle Claret. 104 Full Grain Crimson. 130 Full Claret. 105 Light Pink. 131 Dark Claret. 106 Salmon. 132 Dark Green Olive. 107 Grain Rose. 133 Brown Olive. 108 Light Orange. 134 Brown Olive. 109 Dark Orange. 135 Full Red Brown. 110 Yellow. 136 Dark Coffee Brown. Ill Dark Yellow. 137 Adelaide. 112 Grain Scarlet. 138 Mulberry. 113 Lac Scarlet. 139 Green Olive. 114 Light Pea Green. 140 Light Green Olive. 115 Sea Green. 141 Light Sky Blue. 116 Apple Green. 142 Dark Sky lue. 117 Apple Green. 143 Lavender. 3 18 Bottle Green. 144 Red Lavender. 119 Invisible Green. 145 Madder Drab. 120 Chromed Green. 146 Full Drab. 121 Invisible Green. 147 Lighter Shade of Drab. 122 Purple. 148 Silver Drab. 123 Light Chromed Purple. 149 Blue Black. 124 Voilet. 150 Full Black. 125 Red Ruby. COLOURED ORLEANS AND COBOURGS FROM WHITE WARPS. No. No. 151 Cinnamon Brown. 167 Maroon. 152 Bed Brown. 168 Sea Green, Blue Shade. 153 Coffee Brown. 169 Pink. 154 Light Claret. 170 Sky Blue. 155 I'.Tiddle Claret. 171 Lavender Drab. 156 Dark Claret. 172 Silver Drab. 157 Apple Green. 173 Flat Drab. 158 Light Olive. 174 Dark Fawn Drab. 159 Dark Green Olive. 175 Dark Drab. 160 Brown Olive. 176 Dark Claret. 161 Dark Green. 177 Adelaide. 162 Brown Olive. 178 Mulberi-y. 163 Dark Green. 179 Royal Blue. 164 Invisible Green. 180 Full Black. 165 Light Brown. 181 Dark Aniline Blue. 166 Claret. 182 Dark Aniline Green. CONTENTS. 8 THE MODE OF DYEING FINE ANILINE COLOURS. No. No. 183 Magenta (Red Shade). 190 Fine Aniline Blues. 184 Magenta (Blue Shade). 191 Remarks. 185 Ponceau Crimson. 192 “ Night Greens ” or 186 Aniline Yellow or Iodine Greens. Orange Colour. 193 Invisible Green, from 187 Bismarck Brown. Aniline. 188 The Purple and Violet 194 Dark Blue, from Colours. Aniline. 189 Remarks. 195 Eosine Orange. FIGURED ORLEANS. No. No. j 196 Aniline Cardinal. 231 Claret. 197 Grain Crimson. 232 Light Blue Violet. 198 New mode of dyeing 233 Claret. Scarlet — NewScarlet. 234 Navy Blue. 199 Scarlet. 235 Dark Shade of Navy 200 Scarlet dyed another Blue. way. 236 Solid Violet. 201 Yellow. 237 Claret. 202 Orange. 238 Claret. 203 Dark Orange. 239 Violet Blue. 204 Nice Orange colour 240 Light Red Brown. dyed another wav. 241 Nut Brown. 205 Full Aniline Maroon. 242 Red Purple. 206 Full Maroon dyed 243 Scarlet Brown. another way. 244 Dark Magenta. 207 Magenta Colour or 245 Dark Saffranine Claret. Cardinal. 246 Saffranine Crimson. 208 Violet. 247 Light Bismarck Brown. 209 New Aniline Scarlet. 248 Dark Bismarck Brown. 210 Light Maroon. 249 Serge Blue. 211 Purple. 250 Claret. 212 Blue Purple. 251 Light Green & Orange. 213 Aniline Purple. 252 Orange and Green. i 214 Lilac. 253 Green and Crimson. i 2l5 Dark Solid Purple. 254 Green and Purple. | 216 Pink. 255 Mid Green and Purple. 217 Saffranine Crimson. 256 Serge Blue and Purido. 218 Orange Brown. 267 Serge Blue & Crimson. 219 Red Scarlet. 258 Saxon Blue & Crimson. 220 Pure Bismarck Brown 259 Yellow and Claret. Colour. 260 Orange and Purple. | 221 Red Bismarck Brown. 261 Scarlet and Purple. i 222 Aniline Scarlet. 262 Lilac and Crimson. \ 223 Orange. 263 Black and Blue. 224 Full Dark Orange Co- 264 Black and Green. ! lour. 265 Black and Purple. 225 Full Orange Colour. 266 Black and Crimson. - Another Mode. 267 Black and Orange. 1 226 Orange Scarlet. 268 Black and Yellow. | 227 Aniline Crimson. 269 Scarlet and Yellow. | 228 Yellow. 270 Yellow and Crimson. 1 229 Full Aniline Crimson. 271 Orange and Blue. 230 Saffranine Crimson. 1 Cm^TENTS FIGURED ORLEANS. — Continued. No. 272 Coffee Brown and Grim* son. ■273 Yellow and Blue. 274 Green and Orange. 27.5 Green and Crimson. 276 Blue and Crimson. 277 Scarlet & Blue Bronze. 278 Black and Crimson. 279 Black and Blue Bronze. 280 Scarlet and Black. 281 Black and Orange. 282 Black and Crimson. 283 Blue and Crimson. 284 Dark Blue and Scarlet. 285 Bine and Pink. 286 Green and Pink. 287 Green and Orange. 288 Blue and Green. 289 Blue and Pink. 290 Lavender and Scarlet. 291 Green and Scarlet. 292 Yellow and Blue. 293 Dark Purple Bronze. 294 Orange Blue Bronze. 295 Dark Blue Bronze. 296 Brown Bronze. 297 Red Brown Bronze. 298 Dark Brown Bronze. 299 Purple Bronze. 300 Dark Red Bronze. 301 Dark Olive Bronze. 302 Light Olive Bronze. 303 Red Shade of Light Bronze. 304 Orange Bronze. 305 Dark Green Olive Bronze. 306 Dark Olive Bronze. 307 Bismarck Brown Bronze. 308 OliveandBrownBronze. 309 BlueandScarletBronze. 310 Light Shade of Blue and Scarlet Bronze. 311 Dark Blue and Brown Bronze. No. 312 Olive & Scarlet Bronze. 313 Purple and Crimson Bronze. 314 Full Bright Shade of Magenta Colour. 315 Full Magenta & Green. 316 Green and Orange Bronze. 317 Light Green and Light Brown Bronze. 318 Dark Shade of Green and Brown Bronze. 319 Blue and Green Bronze. 320 Scarlet* Green Bronze. 321 Darker Shade of Scarlet and Green Bronze. 322 Lavender Gray and Bronze. 323 Malachite Green. 324 Mid Shade of Green. 325 Dark Shade of Green. 326 Darker Green. 327 Prepared Cloth. 328 Prepared Cloth. 329 330 Cloth in the Gray. 331 Alkali Blue. 332 Blue and Crimson. 333 Blue and Orange. 334 Scarlet and Blue. 335 Scarlet. 336 Black and Green. 337 Malachite Green. 338 Malachite Green. 339 Magenta Colour. 340 Blue. 341 Fine Violet. 342 Fine Violet. 343 Gray. 344 Dark Gray. 345 Drab. 346 Drab. 347 Drab. 348 Drab. 349 Yellow. 350 Saffranine. SILK, COTTON, AND WOOL, OR SLURRING. No. 351-2-3 Light Magenta. 354-5-6 Mid Shade of Ma- genta. 357-8-9 Full Shade of Ma- genta. 360-1-2 Light Lilac. 363-4-5 Mid Shade of Lilac. No. 366-7-8 Full Shade of Lilac. 369-70-71 Light Green. 372-3-4 Mid Shade of Green 375-6-7 Full Shade of Green 378-9-80 Serge Blue. 381-2-3 Serge Blue. 384-5-6 Light Alkali Blue. CONTENTS. SILK, COTTON, AND WOOL, OR SLUBBING.— Continued. No. 387-8-9 Mid Shade Alkali Blue. 390-1-2 Full Shade Alkali Blue. 393-4-5 Light Crimson. 396-7-8 Dark Crimson. 399-400-1 Light Ponceau. 402-3-4 Dark Ponceau. 405-6-7 Red Violet. 408-9-10 Blue Violet. 411-12-13 Light Green. 414-15-16 Dark Shade of Green. 417-18-19 Light Claret. 420-1-2 Dark Claret. 423-4-5 Purple. 426-7-8 Purple. 429-30-31 Light Induline Blue. 432-3-4 Dark Induline Blue. 435-6-7 Mid Brown. 438-9-40 Dark Brown. 441-2 Bed Claret. 4-13-4 Dark Red Claret. 445-6 Light Orange. 447-8 Dark Orange. 449-50 Rose Colour. 551-2 Full Rose Colour. 453-4 Eosiue Orange. COTTON No. 455-6 Eosine Scarlet. 457-8 Aniline Scarlet. 459-60 Aniline Scarlet. 461-2 Aniline Yellow. 463-4 Aniline Yellow. 465-6 Eosine Rose Colour. 467-8 Dark Eosine Rose. 469-70 Phloxine Crimson. 471-2 Phloxine Crimson. 473-4 Eosine Crimson. 475-6 Dark Eosine Crimson 477-8 Full Eosine Orange. 479-80 Eosine Salmon Co- lour. 481-2 Dark Eosine Salmon Colour. 483-4 Bengal Rose. 485-6 Cyanosine Rose. 487-8 Aniline Orange. 489-90 Light Olive Bronze. 491-2 Green Olive Bronze. 493-4 Light Brown Olive Bronze. 495-6 Dark Brown Olive Bronze. 497-8 Dark Olive Bronze. 499 Green. 500 Dark Green. DYEING. No. 501 Buff. 502 Buff. 503 Buff or Nankin. 504 Straw Colour, 505 Flesh Colour. 506 Safflower Pink. 507 Light Pink. 508 Scarlet. 509 Light Cinnamon Brown 510 Darker Shade of Light Brown. 611 Dark Shades of Brown. 512 Chrome Yellow. 513 Darker Shade of Chrome Yellow. 614 Full Chrome Orange. 515 Fast Drab. 516 Fast Blue. 517 Lavender. 618 Lilac. 519 Silver Drab. 520 Good Light Drab. 521 Fuller Shade of No. 20. No. 522 Light Olive. 623 Darker Olive. 524 Dark Olive. 525 Full Yellow Drab. 626 Light Buff. 527 Light Blue. 528 Light Extract of Green. 529 Middle Shade of Green. 530 Dark Shade of Green. 531 Chromed* Fast Greens 532 Light Catechu Brown. 533 Dark Catechu Brown. 534 Dark Catechu Brown. 535 Full Dark Catechu Brown. 536 Full Yellow Scarlet. 537 Barwood Red. 538 Imitation of Turkey Red. 539 Various Shades of Sil- ver Drab. 540 Various Shades of Fawn Drab. 1 1 CONTENTS. 1 COTTON DYEING.— Continued. No. No. i 541 Good Black. 656 Full Purple. 1 543 A Good Black to Stand 557 Saxon Blue. Milling and Scouring. 558 Flat Royal Blue. 1 543 Fast Black. 559 Bright Royal Blue. 1 544 Fast Purple. 560 Victoria Blue. i 545 Fast Lavender. 561 Napoleon Blue. 546 Sky Blue. 562 On Bleaching Cotton. 547 Bark Yellow. 563 How to Spend Catechu. 548 Other Yellows. 564 How to Make the 549 Peachwood Bed. Spirits for Cotton 550 Crimsous and Pinks. Dyeing Purposes. 651 Clarets. 565 On Steeping. 552 Kuby. 566 How to Spend Anotta. 653 Plum Colour. 567 How to Spend Tnrme- 554 Maroon. ric for Cotton Dyeing. 555 Blue Purple. 568 How to Spend Safflower New and fast Aniline Black on Cotton, Page 19. SILK DYEING. No. No. 569 Lavendef. 597 Purples. 570 Lavender. 698 Maroons. 571 Lavender. 599 Maroon, Another Way. 672 Spirit Yellow. 600 Ruby. 673 Wold Yellow. 601 Daunee Black. I 574 Bark Yellow. 602 Violet. 575 Turmeric Yellow. 603 Light Green. 576 Orange Colour. 604 Middle Green. ' 577 Grain Crimson. 605 Dark Green. 578 Grain Scarlet. 606 Bottle Green. 579 Sky Blues from Extract 607 Other Greens of Differ- of Indigo. ent Shades. 580 Sky Blues from Prus- 608 Fast Green with a Blue siate. Bottom. 581a Mazarine Blue. 609 Light Olives of Differ- 581b French Blue ent Shades. 582 Koyal Blue. 610 Flesh Colour or Buff. 583 Blue Black. 611 Salmon. 584 Common Full Black. 612 Gold Colour. I 585 Light Browns of Difier- 613 Yellow Fawn Drab. ent Shades. 614 Fawn Drab. 586 Dark Browns of Differ- 615 Flat Drab. ent Shades. 616 Heavy Drab. 587 California Browns and 617 Slate Drab. Olives. 618 Bronze Drab. 588 Red or Claret Brown. 619 Another Mode of Dye- i 589 Another Mode of Dye- ing Drabs. ing Red Browns. 620 Sour Browns. 590 Sour Brown. 621 French White. 691 Light Claret Brown. 622 Pinks from Safflower. 592 Dark Claret Brown. 623 Pinks from Peachwood. 593 Clarets and Chocolates. 624 Grain Pinks. 694 Clarets and Chocolates. 625 Mock Scarlet. — Another Mode of 626 Beal Paris Blacks. Dyeing. 627 Napoleon Blue, and 595 Mock Crimsons, Dyed how to make the Different Ways. Spirits for the same. 696 Olive. CONTENTS, 12 DAMASK DYEING. No. No. 628 Pink and White. 648 Light Oriinge & White. 629 Pink. 649 Orange. 630 Salmon and White. 650 Sky Blue and White. 631 Salmon and White. 651 Sky Blue. 632 Hose Colour. 652 Saxon Blue and White 633 Hose Colour. 653 Saxon Blue. 634 White and Light Red 654 Light Green and White. Crimson. 655 Light GreCn. 635 Light Red Crimson. 656 Middle Green & White. 636 Grain Crimson. 657 Middle Green. 637 Grain Crimson. 658 Cinnamon Brown and 638 Buff and White. White. 639 Buff. 659 Cinnamon Brown. 640 Straw Colour & White. 660 Light Fawn. 641 Straw Colour. 661 Darker Fawn. 642 Yellow and White. 662 Light Silver Drab. 643 Yellow. 663 Darker Silver Drab. 644 Lac Scarlet and White. 664 Mock Crimson. 645 Lac Scarlet. 665 Sea Green. 646 Grain Scarlet & White, 666 Coffee Brown. 647 Grain Scarlet. 667 Black. TWO COLOUEED DAMASK AND CAMLET DYEING. No. No. 668 Scarlet and Pink. 680 Blues and Crimsons of 669 Scarlet and Yellow. Different Sorts. 670 Scarlet & Flesh Colour. 681 Green and Crimson. 671 Scarlet and Salmon. 682 Dark Blue and Orange. 672 Scarlet & Rose Colour. 683 Dark Blue and Light 673 Light Green and Pink. Orange. 674 Middle Green and Pink. 684 Ruby and Blue. 675 Green and Yellow. 685 Yellow and Blue. 676 Green and Salmon. 686 Orange and Blue. 677 Saxon Blue and Rose 687 Scarlet and Common Colour. Blue. 678 Sky Blue and Pink. 688 Coffee Brown & Royal 679 Sky Blue and Pink. — Blue. Another Way. CAMLET DYEING. No. No. 689 Scarlet. 701 Dark Brown. 690 Light Orange. 702 Claret Brown. 691 Full Orange. 703 Light Purple. 692 Light Yellow. 704 Middle Purple. 693 Full Yellow. 705 Dark Purple. 694 Grain Crimson. 706 Another Mode of Dye- 695 Ash Drab. ing Purple. 696 Silver Drab. 707 Blue Black. 697 Fawn Drab. 708 Full Black. 698 Saxon Blue. 709 Royal Blue. 699 Maroon. 710 Green. 700 Light Brown. 711 Bottle Green. ' 13 CONTENTS. 1 1 LASTING 1 DYEING. 1 No. No. ' 1 712 Light Yellow. i 724 Green. i 713 Full Yellow. 725 Bottle Green. , 714 Silver Drab. ! 726 Blue Black. j 715 Ash Drab. 727 Full Black. ! I 716 Fawn Drab. 728 Claret Brown. | j 717 Saxon Blue. 729 Dark Brown. j 718 Grain Crimson. 730 Light Purple. j 719 Scarlet. 731 Middle Purple. | 720 Light Orange. 732 Dark Purple. | I 721 Full Orange 733 Royal Blue. j 722 Maroon. 734 Another Mode of DS-e- j 723 Light Brown. 1 ing Purples. i WOOLLEN SHAWL DYEING. | No. No. ' 7.35 Royal Blue. 743 Orange. j 736 Bloomy Royal Blue. 744 Yellow Buff. t 737 Light Rose. 745 Light Buff. 738 Full Rose. 746 Full Buff. 739 Light Salmon. 747 Scarlet. 740 Full Salmon. 748 Lavender. 741 Melon. 749 Sky Blue. 742 Yellow. RECEIPTS FOR PADDING. No. No. 750 Estariazcr Standard. 773 Light Olive Standard. 751 Bed Brown Standard. 774 To Pad Dark Shades 752 Dark Purple Standard. of Olive. 753 Drab Standard. 775 Lilac. 754 Drab Standard. 776 Slate Standard. 755 Grey, or Quaker Drab 777 First Shade Y’ellow Standard. Stone Drab. 756 Slate Standard. 778 Second Shade Stone 757 Dove Standard. — Old Drab. Way. 779 Third Shade. 758 Dark Dove Standard. — 780 Cinnamon Standard. New Way. 781 To Pad Cinnamon. 759 Light Dove Standard. 782 To Pad Estariazer 760 Fawn Drab Standard. Colour. 761 Lavender Standard. 783 To Pad Slate Colours. 762 Sulphate of Indigo. 784 Dark Green Standard. 763 Blue Standard. 78.5 Pale Green. 764 Bloom Pink Standard. 786 Sky Blue Standard. 765 Royal Blue Standard. 787 Lavender Standard. 766 Prussiate of Tin. 788 Drab Preparation, or 767 Claret Standard. another mode of 768 To Pad Claret. Padding Drab. 769 To Pad Black. 789 To Pad different shades 770 To make Acetate of of Drab. Copper. 790 Sky Blue. 771 Stone Drab Standard. 791 Royal Blue. 772 Orange Standard. CONTENTS. u SILK WARP, SKEIN, & HANDKERCHIEF PRINTING. No. 792 Black. 799 Scarlet. 794 Greeu. 795 Claret. 79(i Brown. 797 Bark Red. 798 Orange. 799 Amber. 800 Pink. 801 Light Pink. 802 Peach. 80.3 Light Peach. 804 Dark Purple. 805 Light Purple. 806 Blue. 807 Dark Brown. 808 Light Brown. 809 Poppy Red. 810 Dark Fawn. 811 Light Fawn. 812 Dark Drab. 813 Light Drab. 814 Dark Dahlia. 815 Light Dahlia. 816 Dark Blue. 817 Light Blue. 818 Dark Green. 819 Light Green. 820 Slate Standard. 821 Light Slate Colour. 822 Red Ruby. 823 Maze. No. 824 Dark Lavender. 825 Light Lavender. 826 Dark Maroon. 827 Light Maroon. 828 Dark Grain Crimson. 829 Ponceau. 830 Rose. 831 Dark Apricot. 832 Light Apricot. 8.33 Dark Red Purple. 834 Light Red Purple. 835 Dark Orange. 836 Light Orange. 837 Dark Olive. 838 Light Olive. 839 DarkCinnamonBronze. 840 LightCinnamonBrown. 841 Dark Yellow. 842 Light Yellow. 843 Orange Brown, 844 Light Orange Brown. 845 How to Make Bronze Peachwood. 846 Bronze Logwood. 847 Copper Liquor. 848 Anotta Liquor. 849 Copperas Buff. 850 Ammoniacal Cochineal. 851 Extract of Indigo for Printing. 852 Dark Prussiate Liquor. 853 Sulphate of Indigo. A SHORT DESCRIPTION OF THE DYEWARES MENTIONED IN THIS WORK. Page. Alum 215 Aunota 215 Archil 215 Ammonia 215 Argol 215 Super Argol 215 Camwood 216 Cateehu 216 Cochineal 216 Chrome or Bichromate of Potash 216 Cudbear see Archil . . 216 Sulphate of Indigo . . 216 « French Berry or Persian Berry 216 Fustic 216 Young Fustic 217 Galls 217 Indigo 217 Page. Kermes or Lac Dye . . 217 Myrabalans 217 Peachwood 217 Logwood 217 Madder 218 Nitric Acid or Aqua Fortis 218 Nitrates 218 Prussiate of Potash . . 218 Quercitron Bark 218 Safflower 218 Sanders or Red Sandal 218 Sapan Wood 218 Sumac 218 Turmeric 219 Vitriol 219 Blue 219 Green 219 15 CONTENTS. EXAMINATION OF WATEE BY TESTS OR EE-AGENTS. Page. Page. To ascertain if Water To ascertain if Water be Hard or Soft . . 220 contain Magnesia. . 221 To ascertain if Water To ascertain if Water i contain an Acid . . 220 contain Pure Lime 221 1 To ascertain if Water' To ascertain if Water 1 contain an Alkali or contain Carbonic- ! an Earth 220 Acid 221 1 To ascertain if Water To ascertain if Water : contain Iron 220 contain any Com- To ascertain if Water bination -of Sulphur 221 contain any Sub- To ascertain if Water ' stance combined contain Lead 221 with Muriatic Acid 220 To ascertain if Water contain Copper .... 221 EXPLANATION OF TEEMS, &c. Pdges 222, 223, and 224. 1 WOOL AND COTTON SPIRITS. Page. Page. Nitrate of Tin 225 Blue Spirits 227 Single Muriate of Tin 226 Cotton Spirits- 226 Crystals of Tin 226 Nitrate of Copper .... 227 Oxmuriate of Tin .... 226 Silk Spirits 227 Bark Spirit or Yellow Plum Spirits 228 Spirits 226 Nitrate of Iron 228 Finishing Spirits 226 ANILINE VATS. Page. Page. Crimson Vat for Orange Vat for Cotton Cotton Dyeing .... 229^ Dyeing 230 Scarlet Vat for Cotton Saffranine Crimson Vut 1 Dyeing 229 for Cotton Dyeing 230 Violet for Cotton Navy Blue Vat for Dyeing 229 Cotton Dyeing .... 230 Purple Vat for Cotton Nitrate of Copper Vat 230 Dyeing 230 Alkaline Vat 231 Bismarck Brown Vat Malachite Green Vat for Cotton Dj’eing. . 230 for Cotton-Dyeing 231 HOW TO SET COPPERAS VATS. Page. Page. How to set a Copperas How to Set a Cop- j Vat for Dyeing pcras Vat for Piece Cotton Warps and- Dyeing 232 Hanks 232 EXTRACTING BY THE OLD & NEW PROCESSES. Page. Extracting by the Old Process . . 233 Improvement in Extracting Vegetable Matters from Com- binations of Animal and Vegetable Substances 234 In writing out the Receipts for this work w few errors have arisen, uhich have been corrected by Errata. D. S. ERRATA. In Receipt No. 9, use “ i lb.” of Fustic and “ lb.” of Madder in place of “ i oz.” ,, ,, 12, use “ 5 lbs.” of Logwood in the place of “ 5 ozs.” „ ,, 15, use “1^ lb.” of Fustic and “ 1^ lb.” of Crop in Madder place of “ 1|^ oz.” „ „ 71, add 30 “ lbs. of Fustic,” which has been omitted in that Receipt. ,, ,, 104, use only “ 5 lbs.” of Paste Cochineal in the place of “ 10 lbs.” ,, ,, 107, use “ 1 lb.” of Dry Cochineal and “ 1 lb.” of Paste Cochineal in the place of “ i lb.” ,, ,, 117, add “ 10 ozs. of Cudbear,” which has been omitted in that Receipt. ,, ,, 138, use only “ 3 lbs.” of Logwood in the place of “ 10 lbs.” ,, ,, 140, read “ Dark^live ” in the place of “ Light Olive.’’ ,, ,, 157, read “ 8 ends ” in the place of “ 8 pieces ” on the 7th line. ,, ,, 191, page 83, line 33, read “and” in place of “2nd;” and in page 84, hne 31, read “ colouring matter ” instead of “ colour matter.” „ ,, 332, in the first line read, the same as “ 331,” instead of “ 323.” ,, ,, 465-6, use “ Methyleosine ” in the place of “ Eosine.” ,, ,, 467-8, use “ Methyleosine ” in the place of “Eosine.” ,, ,, 477-8, use “ Methyleosine ” in the place of “Eosine.” .1 - ^ I SMITH’S PRACTICAL DYEE’S GUIDE. 19 NEW AND FAST ANILINE BLACK ON COTTON. NEW AND FAST ANILINE BLACK ON COTTON. First boil the Wool from the bale so that every part of it is thoroughly saturated, then Woos it with an Hydro-extractor to get the water out of it ; then open it out by the hand ready to be dyed. I It requires two ingredients to dye this black, and a small quantity j I of Nitrate of Iron ; both these are prepared and sold by Bead Holliday, '■ of Huddersfield, one is sold in a powder, the other in a paste. i I To dye lOOlbs. of Cotton Wool after being prepared from the bale j as described, it requires 401bs. of each of those two ingredients and j about one gill of Nitrate of Iron. Both these ingredients must be I dissolved in boiling water. The powdered ingredient must be added to the dye pan first while the water is cold and stirred into it ; this done, i the pasty ingredient must be added, and then the gill of Nitrate of Iron. The Cotton must then be entered and turned over for a few minutes, ; I then be laid down in the dye liquor to steep for two hours, then the } I heat must be applied and the Cotton turned over all the time the liquor j I is being heated. The liquor must be got up to the boiling point j , gradually, by which time the Wool will be a good fast black. The Wool does not require to be boiled. Before it turns into a black it j ' will appear to be a yellow greenish colour. When it is dyed it must be well washed in cold water, then woosed and shook over again. It must then be finished off for the stove in manner following; — To i ^ a vessel of clean y.'arm water, add 6 lbs. of soap previously dissolved, I 1 and two quarts of Lard Oil, which is to soften the Cotton. It is then I finished ready for^the stove. 1 1 . I WOOLS ij il No. 1. 100 lbs. OF WOOL.— BOTTLE GREEN. Boil 1 hour with 1 lb. of Chrome, 1 lb. of Alum, and 1 lb. of Argol. Finish with 10 lbs. of Logwood, 20 lbs. of Fustic, and 1 quart of Extract of Indigo. Boil 2 hours in the .Finishing. No. 2. 100 lbs. OF WOOL.— CINNAMON DRAB. Boil 1 hour with 6 ozs. of Chrome. Finish with 3 ozs. of Logwood, 3 lbs. of Fustic, and 3 lbs. of Croj) Madder. Boil 1|^ hour. No. 3. 60 lbs. OF WOOL.— TRUE OLIVE. After being dyed a light shade in the Woad Vat, Stuff with 30 lbs. of Fustic, 4 lbs. of Madder, 1 lb. of Camwood, 2 lbs. of Logwood. Sadden with 8 ozs. of Copperas and 4 ozs. of Blue Vitriol. To dye the same shade with Chrome, Boil 1 hour with 1 lb. of Chrome and finish with 4 lbs. of Logwood, 20 lbs. of Fustic, 4 lbs. of Madder and 4 ozs. of Alum. 21 WOOLS. No, 4. 12 stones OF WOOL. FAST DAEK GREEN. Dye to good dark shade in the Blue Vat. Dye off with 80 lbs. of Fustic, 30 lbs. of Logwood, and 4 lbs. of Alum. Boil 2^ hours. To dye the same shade with Chrome. Boil 1 hour with 2 lbs. of Chrome, 2 lbs. of Alum, and 2 lbs. of Argol. Finish with 20 lbs. of Logwood, and 40 lbs. of Fustic. Boil 2 hours. No. 6. 250 lbs. OF WOOL. MIDDLE SHADE OF CALIFORNIA COLOUR. Boil 1 hour with 1^ lb. of Chrome. Finish with 4^ ozs. of Logwood, 1 lb. 12 ozs. of Camwood, 50 lbs. of Fustic, 10 lbs. of Crop Madder. Boil 2 hours. No. 6. 250 lbs. OF WOOL. LIGHT BROWN. Boil 1 hour with li lb. of Chrome. Finish with 6 ozs. of Logwood, 1.} lb. of Camwood, 45 lbs. of Fustic, 30 lbs. of Mull Madder. Boil 2 hours, then sadden with 6 ozs. of Copperas, and boil half an hour more. WOOLS. 2'2 No. 7. 100 lbs. OF WOOL. DLAB. Boil oue hour ■with G ozs of Chrome. Finish with 10 ozs. of Fustic, 2L lbs. of Mull Madder and 5 ozs. of Sumac. Boil 1^ hour. ' 'll No’. 8. 100 lbs. OF WOOL. DBAB< Boil 1 hour with G ozs. of Chrome. Finish with 3 ozs. of Logwood, 1|^ lb. of Fustic and lbs. of Crop Madder. Boil hour. i No. 9. 200 lbs. OF WOOL. ELATE COLOUE. Boil 1 hour with 1 lb. of Crome and 1 lb. of Super Tartar. Finish v/ith 3i ozs. of Logwood, i oz. of Fustic and ^ oz. of Crop Madder. Boil 1^ hour. i 1 • No. 10. 225 lbs. OF WOOL. FAWN DEAB. Boil 1 hour with 12 ozs. of Chrome. Finish with 1 oz. of Logwood, 3 lbs. of Crop Madder, If lb. of Fustic. Boil If hour. i i WOOLS. 23 No. 11. 225 lbs. OF WOOL. DEAB. Boil 1 hour with 12 ozs. of Chrome. Finish with 1 lb. of Fustic, 4 lbs. of Crop Madder, and 2 ozs. of Logwood. Boil 1^ hour. No. 12. 200 lbs. OF WOOL. SLATE COLOUE. Boil 1 hour with IL lb. of Chrome, and 1 lb. of Super Tartar. Finish with 5 ozs. of Logwood, and 2L lbs. of Fustic. Boil 1| hour. No. 13. 120 lbs. OF WOOL. OLIVE DEAB. Boil 2 hours with G lbs. of Crop Madder and 23 lbs. of Fustic. Sadden with 8 ozs. of Alum and 8 ozs. of Copperas. Boil half an hour. . No. 14. ; 120 lbs. OF WOOL. DEAB. Boil 1 hour with 12 ozs. of Logwood, 3 lbs of Mull Madder, and IJ lbs, of Bavwood. j Sadden with 8 ozs. of Copperas, and 1 lb. of Argol. Boil 1|- hour. WOOLS. 24 No. 15. 100 lbs. OF WOOL. DRAB. J Boil 1 hour with G ozs. of Chrome. i Finish with 2 ozs. of Logwood, j 1^ oz. of Fustic, and | 1^ oz. of Crop Madder. Boil 1 } hour. No. IG. 100 lbs. OF WOOL. STONE DRAB. Boil 1 hour with G ozs. of Chrome. Finish with 3 ozs. of Logwood, 1 lb. of Fustic, 2 lbs. of Crop Madder, and 4 ozs. of Sumac. Boil 11 hour. No. 17. 100 lbs. OF WOOL. FULL SLATE COLOUR. Boil 1 hour with 8 ozs. of Chrome, and ^ 8 ozs. of Super Tartar, Finish with 1^ lb. of Logwood, 2 ozs. of Camwood, and 4 ozs. of Cudbear. Boil 14 hour. No. 18. 100 lbs. OF WOOL. GREEN DRAB. Boil 1 hour with 8 ozs, of Chrome. Finish with 8 ozs. of Logwood, 13 ozs. of Fustic, and 12 ozs. of Crop Madder. Boil 1| hour. 25 -WOOLS. No. 19. 225 lbs. OF WOOL. BEIGHT SHADE OF CALIFORNIA COLOUR. Boil 1 hour -wltli 1^ lb. of Cbrome, Finish with 6 ozs. of Logwood, 45 lbs, of Fustic, ! 30 lbs. of Mull Madder, and 1 lb. of Camwood. Boil 2 hours. No. 20. 120 lbs. OP WOOL. LAVENDER. 0 Boil 1 hour with 4 lbs. of Logwood, 11 lb. of Camwood, and 1 lb. of Mull Madder. Sadden with IJ lb. of Alum. Boil 1^ hour. 0 m 0 j ; ’ No. 21. 1 150 lbs. OF Yv^OOL. RED LAVENDER. ' I ; Boil 1 hour with 8 lbs. of Logwood, 1^- lb, of Cudbear, 8 ozs. of Fustic, and 4 lbs. of Mull I, ladder. Sadden with 1 lb, of Copperas, and j 2 lbs. of Argol. Boil IJ- hour. WOOLS. 26 1 No. 22. 120 lbs. OF WOOL, FULL HEAVY DEAB. Boil IL hour with 4 ozs. of Logwood, 3 lbs. of Camwood, If lb. of Fustic, 4 lbs. of Mull Madder, and 1 lb. of Sumac. Sadden with 12 ozs. of Copperas, and 4 ozs. of Alum. Boil half an hour. # No. 23. 200 lbs. OF WOOL, CALIFOENIA GREEN. Boil 1 hour with 1| lb. of Chrome, and 1 lb. of Alum. Finish with 4 lbs. of Logwood, and 16 lbs. of Fustic. Boil 2 hours. # No. 24. 140 lbs. OF WOOL. FULL DARK DRAB. Boil 2 hours with 20 lbs. of Fustic, 2 lbs. of Red Sanders, and " 8 ozs. of Logwood. Sadden with 2 lbs. of Copperas. # No. 25. 100 lbs. OF WOOL. FULL STONE DEAB. Boil 1 hour with G ozs. of Chrome, and 6 ozs. of Super Tartar. Finish with 12 ozs. of Logwood, 8 ozs. of Camwood, and 6 ozs. of Cudbear. Boil 1:^ hour. 41 27 WOOLS. No. 26. 100 lbs. OF WOOL. CHROMED GREEN. Boil 1 hour with 1 lb. of Chrome, 1 lb. of Argol, and 8 ozs. of Super Tartar. Finish with 8 lbs. of Logwood, and 20 lbs. of Fustic. Boil 2 hours. No. 27. 50 lbs. OF WOOL. BLUE CLARET. Boil 1 hour with 3 lbs. of Alum, 30 lbs. of Peachwood, and 6 ozs. of Logwood. Sadden with 4 ozs. of Copperas, and 2 pailfids of Urine. Boil 2 hours. No. 28. 120 lbs. OF WOOL. VERY HEAVY DRAB. Boil 2 hours with 28 lbs. of Fustic, 10 lbs. of Crop Madder, and ' G ozs. of Logwood. Sadden with 8 ozs. of Copperas, and 8 ozs. of Alum. Boil half an hour. No. 29. 225 lbs. OF WOOL. MIDDLE DRAB. EJRl 1 hour with 12 ozs. of Chrome. Finish with 8 ozs. of Logwood, 8 ozs. of Sumac, 5 lbs. of MuU Madder, and 1 lb. of Fustic. Boil 1 { hour. % WOOLS. 28 No. 30. 70 lbs. OP WOOL. DARK BLUE. Boil 1 hour with 8 ozs. of Chrome, and 4 ozs. of Super Tartar. Finish with 4:1 of Logwood, 1 lb. of Cudbear, and 4 ozs. of Camwood. Boil 1 hour. No. 31. 240 lbs. OF WOOL. IJGHT CALIFORNIA COLOUR. Boil 1 hour with 11 lb. of Chrome. Finish with 2 lbs. of Camwood, 50 lbs. of Fustic, and 6 lbs. of Crop Madder. Boil 2 hours. No. 32. 120 lbs. OF WOOL. LIGHT FAWN DRAB. Boil 2 hours with 28 lbs. of Fustic, and 6 lbs. of Crop Madder. Sadden with 8 ozs. of Copperas, and 8 ozs. of Alum. Boil half an hour. No. 33. 225 lbs. OF WOOL. FULL FAWN DRAB. Boil 1 hour with 12 ozs. of Chrome. Finish with 12 ozs. of Logwood, 12 ozs. of Sumac, 1|^ lb. of Fustic, and 5 lbs. of Mull Madder. Boil 1^ hour. 29 WOOLS. No. 34. 100 lbs. OF WOOL. YELLOW SLATE COLOUE. Eoil 1 hour with 8 ozs. of Chrome, and 8 ozs. of Super Tartar, Finish with 1^ lb. of Logwood, and 3 lbs. of Fustic. Boil 1^ hour. No. 35. 240 lbs. OF WOOL. SAGE DEAB. Boil 1 hour with 8 ozs. of Chrome, 8 ozs. of Alum, 8 ozs. of Super Tartar. Finish with lb. of Logwood, 9 lbs. of Fustic, and 2 lbs. of Sumac. Boil hour. m ' 1 1 1 No. 36. 120 lbs. OF WOOL. GOOD FULL DEAB, Boil IL hour with lib. of Logwood, 2^ lbs. of Camwood, IJ lbs. of Fustic, 3 lbs, of Mull Madder, and 12 ozs, of Sumac. Sadden with 8 ozs. of Copperas, and 8 ozs. of Alum. Boil H hour. * WOOLS. 30 ■ No. 37. 150 lbs. OF WOOL. FINE OLIVE DRAB. Boil 1 hour with 1 lb. of Chrome, Finish with IJ lb. of Logwood, 28 lbs. of Fustic, and 2| lbs. of Crop Madder, Boil 2 hours. No. 38. 200 lbs. OF WOOL. LIGHT CHROMED GREEN. [ Boil 1 hour with li lb. of Chrome, and ! 1 lb. of Super Tartar. I Finish with 5 lbs. of Logwood, and 2^ lbs. of Fustic. Boil 1^ hour. No. 39. 225 lbs. OF WOOL. FULL BLUE DRAB. Boil 1 hour with 12 ozs. of Chrome. Finish with 1 lb, of Fustic, 4 lbs. of Crop Madder, and 2 ozs. of Logwood. Boil 1-j hour. No. 40. 120 lbs. OF WOOL. COMMON DRAB. Boil 1|^ hour with 1 lb. of Logwood, 2 lbs. of Camwood, 1 lb. of Crop Madder, 8 ozs. of Argol, and 2 lbs. of Fustic. Sadden with 1 lb. of Copperas. Boil 1 hour. ! 3 1 WOOLS. No. 41. 225 lbs. OF WOOL. FAWN DBAS. 1 Boil 1 hour with 12 ozs. of Chrome. J'iuish with 2 ozs. of Logwood, 8 ozs. of Fustic, iiud 4 lbs. of Camwood. Boil 1^ hour. No. 42. 200 lbs. OF WOOL. LIGHT CIIKOMED GREEN OLIVE. Boil 1 hour with 1| lb. of Chrome. Finish with 5 lbs. of Logwood, 12 lbs. of Fustic, and 1 lb. of Camwood. .Boil 2 hours. W ! No. 43. 6S lbs. OF WOOL. CLARET. Boil 2 hours with 75 lbs. of Barwood, and 12 ozs. of Logwood. Sadden with 2 lbs. of Copperas. Boil 1 hour. No. 44. 100 lbs. OF WOOL. MIDDLE GREEN. Boil 1 hour with 1 lb. of Chrome. Finish with 6 lbs. of Logwood, and 20 lbs. of Fustic. Boil 2 hours. I WOOLS. ‘32 No. 45. 60 lbs. OF WOOL. YELLOW. Boil 1 hour with 4 lbs. of Alum, 2 lbs. of Brown Tartar, 2 quarts of Nitrate of Tin, and 10 lbs. of Y'oung Fustic. t No. 46. 60 lbs. OF WOOL. ORANGE. Boil 1 hour with H lbs. of Cochineal, 10 lbs. of Young Fustic, 2 lbs. of Brown Tartar, and 2 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. t No. 47. 60. lbs. OF WOOL. SCARLET. Boil 1 hour with 2 lbs of Brown Tartar, 2 quarts of Nitrate of Tin, 10 lbs. of Fustic, and 7 lbs. of Lac. m No. 48. 60 lbs. OF WOOL. ROYAL BLUE. Dye with 5 lbs. of Prussiate, 5 quarts of Blue Spirits, 2 quarts of Finishing Spirits. Enter the Wool cold, and get a boil as soon as possible. Boil half an hour. For darker shades, add a little Logwood with the Blue Spirits. For another mode of dyeing this colour, see my ^‘Dyers' Instructor." m 33 WOOLS. No. 49. 50 lbs. OF WOOL. SAXON BLUE. Boil half an hour with 2 quarts of Extract of Indigo. 2 lbs. of Argol, 4 lbs. of Alum, and 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol. No. 50. 160 lbs. OF WOOL. BLACK. Boil 1 hour'with^2 dbs. of Chrome, and 2 lbs. of Argol. Finish with 50 lbs. of Logwood, and 6 lbs. of Barwood. Boil 2 hours, and when a flat shade is wanted, add a few lbs. of Fustic. V t P 4 4 rV L' £ Ml Mil WOOLLENS. SCARLET COLOURS. Eemakks. — Scarlets should be dyed in a clean vessel made either of block tin or copper, or in a stone cistex’n where steam is applied; the water must be clean also, and it must be heated up to the boil before the Dye Wares are put into it. The Wares should then be put into the vessel or bath, and boiled together for a few minutes so as to extract the colour- ing matter from them; the Liquor should than be cooled down a little with cold water, and then stirred up with a wooden rake. The Goods should then be entered and turned over as quickly as possible for a few rounds so that the Dye Wares may be spread uniformly over the whole of the Goods; the heat should then be applied and the Dye Liquor got to a boiling heat. The Goods should be boiled say, from 50 to 60 minutes. Then washed and dried. No. 51. 2 Pieces, LONG WOOLS, 80 lbs. each. GEAIN SCARLET. Boil 1 hour with 9 lbs. of Young Fustic, 6 lbs. of Tartar, 6 quarts of Spirits, Finish in a clean vessel with 4^ lbs. of Lac made into a paste with 6 pints of Nitrate of Tin, 4^ lbs. of Cochineal and 4 quarts more Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1 hour. IS” The Spirit to be used is Nitrate of Tin, or two parts of Nitrate of Tin, and one part of Muriate of Tin. Lac Dye is usually mixed with Spiidts before it is put into the Dye Bath, and those Spirits are Nitrate of Tin. 37 WOOLLENS. No. 52. 4 Pieees, BOCKINS, 36 lbs. each. SOAELET. Boil 1 J hour with 12 lbs. of Lae^ 10 lbs. of Young Fustic, 6 lbs. of Tartar, and 13 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. No. 53. 4 Pieces, 40 lbs. each, in all 160 lbs* ANILINE SOAELET. Dye off with 2 lbs. of Aniline Scarlet and 2 qUatts of Oil of Vitriol. Enter cool, run 20 noinutes, then heat up to the boil gradually. Boil 15 minutes. Get out and wash off. ■ No. 54. 2 Pieces, SAVED LISTS, 70 lbs. each. SOAELET. , Dye with 10 lbs. of Lac, | 6 lbs. of Tartar, 8 lbs. of Young Fustic, 12 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1^ hour. No. 55. i i 1 2 Pieces, LONG WOOLS, 75 lbs. each. LAO SOAELET. ! Dye with 12 lbs. of Lac, 8 lbs. of Tartar, 2 lbs. of Easped Young Fustic, 9 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1;^ hour. 1 ■WOOLLENS. 38 No. 56. 20 Pieces, SEEGES, 8 lbs. each. SCARLET. Dye with 20 lbs. of Lac, 12 lbs. of Tartar, 10 lbs. of Yoting Fustic, 12 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1 hour. ■ No. 57. G Ends, FINE SAVED LISTS* 20 lbs. each. SCARLET. Dye with 14 lbs. of Lac, 7 lbs. of Young Fustic, 8 lbs. of Tartar, 6 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1^ hour. The Lac Dye used in all these Scarlets, is of good quality, but not the best. j No. 58. 4 Pieces, GOLD LISTS, 40 lbs. each. ORANGE. Dye with 2 lbs. of Cochineal, 12 lbs. of Quercitron Bark, 4 ozs. of Lac Dye, 12 Quarts of Yellow Spirits. Boil 1 hour. The same shade may be dyed with V _1 lb. of Aniline Orange, and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol, and a hour’s boil. ■ 39 WOOLLENS. No. 59. 4 Pieces, BOCKINS, 25 lbs. each. YELLOW. Dye with 4 lbs. of Tartar, 12 lbs, of Young Fustic, 7 quarts of Bark Spirits. Boil a half-hour. No. 60, 6 Ends or Pieces GOLD LISTS, 34 lbs. each. FULL YELLOW OR AMBER. Dye with 12 lbs. of Quercitron Bark, 12 lbs. Young Fustic, 7 lbs. of Tartar, 5 Quarts of Bark Spirits. Boil 1 hour. No. 61. 2 Ends, BOCKINS, 68 lbs. each.— SALMON. Dye with i lb. of Cochineal, ^ lb. of Paste Cochineal, 4 lbs. of T artar, 1 lb. of Fustic, 12 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1 hour. ■ 1 No. 62. 4 Pieces, ORANGE LISTS, 35 lbs. each. ! SALMON. j Dye with 2^ lbs. of Cochineal, 4 lbs. of Rasped Young Fustic, 4 lbs. of Tartar, 7 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1 hour. ■ , WOOLLENS. 40 I , t No. 63. ' 2 Pieces, LONGWOOLS, 80 lbs. each.— GRAIN ROSE. 1 , Dye with 4 lbs. of Cochineal, | 4 lbs. of Tartar, ^ 13 pints of Spirits, Blue up in a cistern of warm water with Urine ; according to shade required. No. 64. 12 Pieces, FLANNELS, 10 lbs. each. ANILINE BLUE. Dye off with'3 lbs. of No, 3 Soluable Aniline Blue and 2 quarts of Oil of Vitriol. Enter cool, heat up slowly to boil. Boil 40 minutes. Wash off. ■ No. 65, 2 Pieces, SAVED LISTS, 58 lbs. each. CRIMSON. Dye with 4 lbs, of Lac, 1^ lb. of Dry Cochineal, 1 7 lbs. of Paste Cochineal, 7 lbs. of Brown Tartar, 10 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. No. 66. 4 Pieces, CLOTHS, 40 lbs. each.— ANILINE CRIMSON. Dye off with 3^ lbs. of Aniline Scarlet and 2 quarts of Oil of Vitrol. Enter cool, run 20 minutes, then heat up to boil gradually. Boil 15 minutes. ■ 41 WOOLLENS. No. 67. 12 Pieces, FLANNELS, 10 lbs. each. — ANILINE GEEEN. Dye off with 31 lbs. of Navy Blue, 2 lbs. of Picric Acid, 2 quarts of Oil of Vitriol. Boil 40 minutes. 1 No. 68. 2 Pieces, BEOAD CLOTHS, 42 yards each. CEIMSON. Dye with 3 lbs. of Lac, 4^ lbs. of Cochineal, 6 quarts of Si)irits. Clean and blue in a cistern of warm water with 5 lbs. of Cudbear and 8 pails of Urine. ^ n No. 69. 4 Pieces, OEANGE LISTS, 30 lbs. each.— SKY BLUE. 1 Dye with 10 lbs. of Glaubersalts, 10 lbs. of Alum, 2 quarts of Oil of Vitriol, 3 pints of Extract of Indigo, Boil half an hour. ■ No. 70. 4 Eiids, GOLD LISTS, 30 lbs. each. — DOVE COLOUE. Dye with 1 lb. of Paste Cochineal, 8 lbs. of Tartar, 1 pint of Extract of Indigo, Boil 40 minutes. WOOLLENS. 42 I No. 71. 20 Pieces, SEEGES, 8 lbs. each. GEEEN. Dye with 4 pints of Sulphate of Indigo, 4 lbs. of White Argol, 8 lbs. of Alum. Boil 1 hour. No. 72. 4 Ends, CLOTH, 24 lbs. each. KOYAL BLUE. Dye with G lbs. of Prussiate, 6 quarts of Eoyal Blue Spirits, Enter cold and heat up quickly and turn on sharply, after boiling 20 minutes get out, and add 2 quarts of Finishing Spirits, enter again, and boil 20 minutes. The Finishing Spirits are Muriate of Tin, the Blue Spirits are generally prepared by the chemist, but I have used in the place of them, one fourth part of Oil of Vitriol, one fourth of Aquafortis, and two fourths of Spirits of Salts, and have found these to answer every purpose of the Blue Spirits. No. 73. 4 Ends, 24 lbs. each. DAEK EOYAL BLUE. Dye with 6 lbs, of Prussiate. 6 quarts of Eoyal Blue Spirits, Enter cold and heat up quickly and turn on sharply until the liquor boils, after boiling 20 minutes, get the pieces out and add 2 quarts of Finishing Spirits ; enter again and boil 20 minutes ; get out, cool over, then add 2 lbs. of Logwood, and 1 quart of Finishing Spirits. Boil 20 minutes. By adding more Logwood a darker shade may be obtained. All sorts of cloths of this colour are dyed in this way, from the finest to the lowest quahties, and also yarns of all qualities whether made of Woollen or Worsted. 43 WOOLLENS. No. 74. 4 Ends, LADIES’ CLOTHS, 25 yards each. PUEPLE. Boil 2^ Lours with 40 lbs. of Alum. 8 lbs. of Argol. 1 quart of Nitrate of Tin. Wash well and finish with 30 lbs. of Logwood and 4 lbs of Peachwood in a clean vessel. Enter cool in the finishing, heat up to the boiling point. Boil 20 minutes. 1 1 i 1 No. 75. 4 Pieces, PILOT CLOTHS, 120 lbs. each. DARK BROWN. j Stuff with 40 lbs. of Old Fustic. 1 40 lbs. of Sanders. 1 G lbs. of Logwood. Sadden with G lbs. of Copperas. i 1 |1 1 |l i No. 76. 4 Pieces, PILOT CLOTHS, 120 lbs. each. i DAlHi BROWN. 1 Stuff with 40 lbs. of Fustic. 40 lbs. of Sanders. G lbs. of Logwood. Sadden with 6 lbs. of Copperas. 1 j 1 i i 1 j ■ 1 1 : 1 avoollehs. 44 No. 77. 8 Ends, NAREOW HONLEYS, 40 yards each. DARK CLARET BROWN. Ptuff with 70 lbs. of Sanders. 10 lbs. of Fustic. 6 lbs. of Logwood. Sadden with 8 lbs. of Copperas and ^ gill of Oil of Vitriol. 1 i - i No. 78. 12 Ends, BOCKINS, 25 lbs. each. 1 PEACHWOOD RED. Peachwood Red Cloths of all sorts have to be prepared in the manner following : — that is to say, they must be first boiled 8 hours in the dye bath with Alum and Argol. The above were boiled 3 horn's with 60 lbs. of Alum, and 20 lbs. of Red Argol. (10 lbs. of White Argol would do equally as well), i They were then got out of the bath and finished in a clean bath 4 at a time, with 40 lbs. of good Ground Peachwood and boiled about lialf-an-hour in the finishing. To dye Union Bockins, those made with Cotton Warps called “ Red Paddins ” are dyed as follows: 12 stones weight or 168 lbs. in all. Boil 3 hours with 20 lbs of Alum and 4 lbs. of Vv^hite Argol. Then wash them in cold water, then Sumac them with 24 lbs. of good 1 Sumac, then Spirit them at two degrees Twaddle. I Then wash them again, and finish them in a clean ' bath with 60 lbs. of good Peachwood, (5 lbs. to the stone,) and 12 lbs. of Fustic. A gill of Nitrate of Tin will improve the colour. Boil half an hour. 1 ^ 1 45 WOOLLENS. No. 79. 2 Pieces, LONG WOOLS, 80 lbs. each. GEEEN. Dye with 3 lbs. of Tartar, 10 lbs. of Alum, 3 gills of Sulphate of Indigo, 20 lbs. of Fustic. Boil 1 hour. No. 80. 2 Pieces, LONG W^OOLS, 8 lbs. each. CHESTNUT BROWN. Stuff with 120 lbs. of Sanders, 16 lbs. of Fustic, Sadden with a lb. of Copperas, In the middle of the saddening, add a pint of Oil of Vitriol. No. 81. 3 Pieces, BROAD CLOTHS, 50 lbs. each. DARK GREEN. Dye with 10 lbs. of Argol, 6 lbs. of Madder, 5 pints of Sulphate of Indigo, 40 lbs. of Fustic. Boil 2 hours. Lighter shades of Greens may be obtained by adding less Indigo. 1 WOOLLENS. 46 No. 82. 3 Pieces, CLOTHS, 80 lbs. each. CLARET BROWN. Stuff with GO lbs. of Sanders, 30 lbs. of Fustic, 5 lbs. of Logw'ood. Boil 2 hours, and then Sadden with 3 lbs. of Copperas. ■ • No. 83. 4 Pieces, LADIES’ CLOTHS, 24 lbs. each. CHROMED GREEN. Boil 1 hour with 1 lb. of Chrome. Finish with 20 lbs. of Fustic and 10 lbs. of Logwood, Chrome in one Vessel and Finish in another. - No. 84. 2 Pieces, BOCKINS, 40 lbs. each. CLARET. Stuff with 30 lbs of Sanders, 6 lbs. of Logwood. Sadden with 6 lbs. of Copperas and 2 pails of Urine. J No. 85. 2 Pieces, LADIES’ CLOTHS, 24 lbs. each. BROWN OLIVE. Stuff with 30 lbs. of Fustic, 6 lbs. of Logwood, 3 lbs. of Sanders. Sadden with 4 lbs. of Copperas. - 47 WOOLLENS. No. 86. 2 Pieces, MOHAIRS, 80 lbs. each. MAGENTA, These pieces have Cotton Warps, and therefore the Warps have to be prepared to receive the colour along with the Wool or Hair. Most of the Aniline Colours have to be prepared in this way when mixed with Cotton. These were prepared as follows. They were first Sumaced and Spirited, then washed in cold water, then dyed off at boiling point with Magenta, say half an ounce to each pound of Cloth. All Union Cloths may be pre- pared in this way and dyed Magenta, Mauve, Purple, and other colours. ■ * No. 87. 1 Piece, MOHAIR, 80 lbs. each. BLUE PURPLE. Dye off after preparing the Cotton same as No. 86, but dye with Purple Dye, Aniline Purple, Blue Shade, and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. Darker or lighter shades may be obtained by giving more or less of the Aniline Purple. No. 88. 2 Pieces, COTTON WARPED MOHAIRS, RED PURPLE. Prepare same as 86, Dye off with Red Shade of Aniline Purple. It requires about half an ounce of Purple to the pound of cloth. ■ WOOLLENS. 48 No. 89. 1 Piece, COTTON WARPED MOHAIR, 80 lbs. MAUVE. Dye off with about 6 ozs. of Violet Purple and 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol. Prepare the Cotton Warp same as 8G. No. 90. 1 Piece, MOHAIR, 80 lbs. DRAB. Dyed with 10 lbs of Glaubersalts, 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol, IJ lb. of Cudbear, ^ pint of Extract of Indigo, Then dye the Cotton by running the piece through Sumac, Then through Nitrate of Iron, Then through a weak solution of Oil of Vitriol to clear the cotton. This mode of Cotton Dyeing wiU answer for many shades of Drab. No. 91. 2 Pieces, MOHAIRS, 80 lbs. each. LIGHT BROWN. Boil 1 hour with 2 lbs. of Chrome. Finish with 40 lbs. of Fustic, 4 lbs. of Camwood, 4 lbs. of Crop Madder. These were not Cotton Dyed. Many of the Browns are Dyed with a Chrome preparation. • 49 WOOLLENS. No. 92. 8 Pieces, MOHAIRS, 80 lbs. each. YELLOW. Dyed with 10 lbs. of Quercitrion Bark, 10 lbs. of Young Fustic, 4 lbs. of White Tartar, 6 quarts of Nitrate of Tin, 4 lbs. of Alum. Boil 40 minutes. Dye the cotton with 6 lbs. of Tumeric and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. No. 93. 3 Pieces, MOHAIRS, 80 lbs. each. DEEP ORANGE. , Dye off with 4 lbs. of White Tartar, 1 4 lbs. of Alum, ; 6 quarts Nitrate of Tin, 2 lbs. of Dry Cochineal and 4 lbs. of Quercitrion Bark. 1 1 1 l ! No. 94. i I 8 Pieces, MOHAIRS, 80 lbs. each. ROSE COLOUR. Dyed with 1^ lb. of Dry Cochineal, 2 lbs. of Alum, 8 quarts of Nitrate of Tin, i 6 lbs. of Tartar. Boil 40 minutes. m j No. 95. 2 Pieces, MOHAIR, 80 lbs. each. GRAIN SCARLET. 1 j Dyed With 6 lbs. of Dry Cochineal, 6 lbs. of Bark, 5 quarts of Nitrate of Tin, 6 lbs. of Tartar. Boil 40 minutes. m WOOLLENS. 60 No. 9G. 2 Pieces, OBANGE LISTS, 34 lbs. each. GEEEN. Dyed with 10 lbs. of Alum, 6 lbs. of Bed Argol, 80 lbs. of Fustic, 1 quart of Sulphate of Indigo. Ebil 1 hour, Then “ Sumac and Iron,” Then wash off. ■ 1 No. 97. 2 Pieces, GO lbs. each. INVISIBLE GREEN, Dyed off with 4 lbs. of Navy Blue Aniline, 2 lbs. of Picric Acid, 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. Boil 40 minutes. ! 1 No. 98. 1 Piece, MOHAIE, 80 lbs. CBIMSON. Dyed as follows. Boiled 1 hour with 4 lbs. of good Lac Dye, 1 lb. of Cochineal, G lbs. of White Argol, 4 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Blue to shade in a clean cisteruj With 4 lbs. of Cudbear and j 4 quarts of Ammonia. I 1 No. 99. 2 Pieces, MOHAIBS, 80 lbs. each. BOYAL BLUE. Dyed as follows : They were first Cotton Dyed a Buff with 24 quarts of Nitrate of Iron and 2 quarts of Muriate of Tin in a cistern of cold water. Then passed through another cistern containing 24 quarts of Ammonia. t .. -- L- r- 51 WOOLLENS. The pieces were repeated in these two cisterns three times, then washed. The cotton was in this way pre- pared to take the Prussiate along with the wool or mohair. They were then dyed off in the manner follow- ing : In a vessel heated up to 100 Far. there was added 18 lbs. of Yellow Prussiate of Potash, 6 quarts of Blue Spirits, The Pieces were then entered, and after being turned over a few rounds the steam was applied and heated up to a boil in 20 minutes. When they had boiled 15 minutes they were turned on the wench^until 4 quarts of Muriate of Tin were added “ to give bloom to the colour.” They^were again entered and boiled on for 20 minutes longer. Finished. When very dark shades of blue are required, a few lbs. of Logwood is added with the Muriate of Tin. That gives both darkness and bloominesg to the pieces. No. 100. 1 Piece, COTTON WARP, 80 lbs. LOGWOOD BLUB. Prepare with 1 lb. of Bichrome and 2 lbs. of Alum. Boil 1 hour. Then finish in another vessel with 12 lbs. of Logwood, 2 lbs. of Camwood, 2 lbs. of Cudbear and 1 pint of Muriate of Tin. Boil half an hour. The cotton was then Dyed by being only “ Sumaoed and Ironed.” Finished. IS* For Blue Blacks and Full Blacks, Dye them as follows : for 2 Pieces Mohair 80 lbs. each, for Blue Black, prepare with 3 lbs. of Chrome and 1 lb. of Argol. Finish with 30 lbs. of Logwood, 8 lbs. of Cudbear and 3 pints of Muriate of Tin. Cotton Dye with Sumac and Iron only. For a full Dark Black, prepare in the same way and with the same quantity of Chrome and Argol, and finish with the same quantity of Logwood and 6 lbs. of Fustic; but give no Cudbear or Spirit. But if a good “Bloomy Black ” is wanted, add 2 quarts of Muriate of Tin, but no Fustic. Boil 1 hour. MERINOS. 52 No. 101. 10 Pieces, SIX-QUABTER MERINOS, 10 lbs. each. ROYAL BLUE. Heat up to 100°, add 10 lbs. of Prussiate and 10 quarts of Blue Spirits, run half an hour, take up and heat up to 140°; then enter again and run another half hour. Take up again and heat up to 180°, add 2 quarts of Finishing Spirits, enter again and run another half hour. Take out and cool over, heat up to the boiling point, add other 8 quarts of Finishing Spirits, enter again and boil half an hour. Finished. - No. 102. ' 10 Pieces, DARK ROYAL BLUE. Same as No. 1, in all respects, except half an hour’s, additional boiling with 2 lbs. of Logwood and 1 quart more Finishing Spirits in the last operation. Lighter shades of No. 1 may be got by using less Prus- siate, and darker than No. 2, by adding more Logwood. - No. 103. 10 Pieces, BLUE SHADE OF GRAIN MAROON. Boil 20 minutes with G lbs. of Cudbear. Then in another vessel boil half an hour with 2 quarts of Nitrate of Tin, 2 lbs. of White Argol, 1 lb. of Dry Cochineal. No. 104. 10 Pieces, FULL GRAIN CRIMSON. Boil half an hour with 4 lbs. of White Argol, 4 lbs. of Alum, 10 lbs. of Paste Cochineal, 8 lbs. of Dry Cochineal, 8 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. 1 j 58 MERINOS, No. 105. 10 Pieces, LIGHT PINK. Dye with 10 ozs. of Paste Cochineal, 4 ozs. of Dry Cochineal, 3 lbs, of Tartar, G quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil half an hour. 1 i 1 No. lOG. 10 Pieces, SALMON. Dye with G quarts of Nitrate of Tin, G lbs. of Tartar, il- lb, of Dry Cochineal, ^ lb. of Paste Cochineal. Boil half an hour. ■i No. 107. 10 Pieces, GPiAIN PiOSE. Dye with G quarts of Nitrate of Tin, 4 lbs, of Tartar, G lbs. of Dry Cochineal, 2 lbs. of Paste Cochineal. Boil half an hour. ■ 1 " j No. 108. 10 Pieces, LIGHT OBANGE. Dye with 8 lbs, of Young Fustic, 1 i lb. of Dry Cochineal, G quarts of Nitrate of Tin, j 4 lbs. of Tartar. Boil half an hour. j j ■ i, MEumos. No. 109. 10 Pieces, DAEK ORANGE. Dye with IJ lb. of Cochineal, 10 lbs. of Young Fustic, 4 lbs. of Tartar, 0 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Bsil half an hour. No. 110. 10 Pieces, YELLOW. Dye with 4 lbs. of Tartar, 1 lb. of Alum, 5 quarts of Y'eUow Spirits, 7^ lbs. of Young Fustic. Boil half an hour. No. Ill, 10 Pieces, DAEK YELLOW, Dye with 3 lbs. of Tartar, 2 lbs. of Alum, 15 lbs. of Young or “Zont” Fustic, 0 quarts of Nitrate of Tin, Boil 40 minutes. No. 112. 10 Pieces, GRAIN SCARLET, I Dye with 8 lbs. of Cochineal, • 4 lbs. of Tartar, ' 8 quarts of Nitrate of Tin, 3 lbs. of Young Fustic. Boil half an hour. 55 MERINOS. No. 113. 10 Pieces, LAC SCARLET. Dye ■with 4 lbs. of Tartar, 10 quarts of Nitrate of Tin, 10 lbs. of good Lac, 8 lbs. of Young Fustic. Boil 1 hour. - No. 114. 10 Pieces, LIGHT PEA GREEN. Dye ■with 10 lbs. of Alum, 5 lbs. of White Argol, 5 lbs. of Old Fustic, 1 Gill of Extract of Indigo. Boil half an hour. No. 115. 10 Pieces, SEA GREEN. Dye with 1 quart of Extract of Indigo, 10 lbs. of Fustic, 5 lbs. of Argol, 20 lbs. of Alum. Boil baK an hour. No. 116. 10 Pieces, APPLE GREEN. Dye with 1 quart of Extract of Indigo, 5 lbs. of Red Argol, 10 lbs. of Turmeric, 3 pints of Oil of Vitriol. Boil half an hour. ■ MERINOS. 56 No. 117. 10 Pieces, APPLE GREEN-. Dye with one quart of Extract of Indigo, 5 lbs. of Red Argol, 10 lbs. of Turmeric, 3 pints of Oil of Vitriol. Boil half am hour. No. 118. 10 Pieces, BOTTLE GREEN. Dye with 20 lbs. of Fustic, 20 lbs. of Alum, 10 lbs. of Red Argol, 3 pints of Sulphate of Indigo. Boil 1 hour. ■ No. 119. 10 Pieces, INVISIBLE GREEN. Dye with 5 pints of Sulphate of Indigo, 10 lbs. of Argol, 10 lbs. of Alum, 5 lbs. of Logwood. Boil 1 hour. ■ No. 120. 10 Pieces, CHROMED GREEN. Boil 40‘minutesjwith 1 lb. of Chrome, Finish with 20^1bs. of Fustic and 8 Ibs.'of Logwoodiin'a clean vessel. Boil half ‘an hour in the finishing. 1 1 57 MERINOS. No. 121. I© Pieces, INVISIBLE GEEEN. Invisible Green Dyed another way, and much cheaper. First BoU 1 hour with 1 lb. of Chrome. Finish in a clean vessel with 15 lbs. of Fustic and 12 lbs. of Logwood. Boil half an hour. 1 No. 122. 10 Pieces, PURPLE. Boil half an hour with 1 lb. of Chrome. Finish with 3 lbs. of Logwood. 5 lbs. of Cudbear, 1 pint of Ammonia. Boil half an hour. No. 123. 10 Pieces, LIGHT CHROMED PURPLE. j Chrome same as No. 122. i Finish with 8 lbs. of Cudbear and i ^ lb. of Logwood. Boil half an hour. i 1 ii ii i No. 124. 10 Pieces, VIOLET. Boil 20 minutes with 10 lbs. of Cudbear. To Blue them, run them through a copperas Vat. 1 MERINOS. 58 No. 125. 10 Pieces, RED RUBY. Boil 20 minutes with 10 lbs. of Cudbear. Then wash off. No. 126. 10 Pieces, MAROON. Boil 8 hours with 30 lbs. of Alum, 10 lbs. of Red Argol. Wash well, Then finish with 25 lbs. of Peachwood and 1 quart of Ammonia. Boil half an hour in the finishing. No. 127. 10 Pieces, MAROON. Boil 3 hours with 30 lbs. of Alum, 10 lbs. of Red Argol. Wash well and finish in a clean vessel with 25 lbs. of Good Lime Peachwood and 1 quart of Ammonia. Boil half an hour. No. 128. 10 Pieces, LIGHT CLARET. Boil 3 hours with 30 lbs. of Alum and 10 lbs. of Red Argol. Clean and Finish with 20 lbs. of Peachwood and 4 quarts of Ammonia. Boil half an hour. 59 MERINOS. No. 129. 10 Pieces, MIDDLE CLAEET. Boil 3 hours with 80 lbs. of Alum and 3 lbs. of Logwood. Clean and finish with 25 lbs. of Peachwood and 3 quarts of Ammonia. Boil half an hour. 1 1 No. 130 10 Pieces, FULL CLARET. Boil 3 hours with 30 lbs. of Alum and 3 lbs. of Logwood. Finish with 30 lbs. of Peachwood and 4 quarts of Ammonia. Boil half an hour. i i j No. 131. 10 Pieces, DARK CLARET. Boil 1 hour with 1 lb. of Chrome. Finish in a clean vessel with 1 i 20 lbs. of Peachwood and 4 ozs. of Alum. ! - ; No. 132. 1 10 Pieces, DARK GREEN OLIVE. Dye with 10 lbs. of Turmeric, 1 quart of Sulphate of Indigo, 1 i ] 0 lbs. of Red Argol and 3 pints of Oil of Vitriol. Boil 1 hour. , — ‘ ' II— •• -• ■■■11 MERINOS. 60 No. 188. 1 10 Pieces, BKOWN OLIVE. Dye with 10 lbs. of Turmeric, 15 lbs. of Camwood, 1 pint of Sulphate of Indigo, 8 pints of Oil of Vitriol and 10 lbs. of Eed Argol. Boil 1 hour. - No. 184. 10 Pieces, BROWN OLIVE. Dye with 10 lbs. of Turmeric, 16 lbs. of Camwood, 1 gill of Sulphate of Indigo, 10 lbs. of Red Argol and 3 pints of Oil of Vitriol. Boil 1 hour. ■ No. 135. 10 Pieces, FULL EED BROWN. Dye with 80 lbs. of Camwood, 3 gills of Sulphate of Indigo, 2 quarts of Oil of Vitriol, 4 lbs. of Turmeric, 10 lbs. of Red Argol. Boil 1 hour. - No. 136. 10 Pieces, DARK COFFEE BROWN. Dye with 30 lbs. of Camwood, 5 lbs. of Turmeric, 3 pints of Sulphate of Indigo, 2 quarts of Oil of Vitriol and 10 lbs. of Red Argol. Boil 1^ hour. ■ 61 MERINOS. No. 137. 10 Pieces, ADELAIDE. Boil 1 hour with 1 lb. of Chrome, Finish with 3 lbs. of Cudbear, 10 lbs. of Peaehwood, 2 lbs. of Logwood. Boil half an hour in the finishing. - No. 138. 10 Pieces, MULBERRY. Boil 1 hour with 1 lb. of Chrome. Finish with 10 lbs. of Cudbear, 10 lbs. of Peaehwood, 10 lbs. of Logwood, 1 quart of Ammonia. Boil half an hour in the finishing. ■ No. 139. 10 Pieces, GREEN OLIVE. Dye with 10 lbs. of Turmeric, 1 pint of Sulphate of Indigo, 5 lbs. of Camwood, 10 lbs. of Red Argol and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. Boil 1 hour. ■ No. 140. 10 Pieces, LIGHT GREEN OLIVE. Dye with 3 gills of Sulphate of Indigo, 10 lbs. of Turmeric, 16 lbs. of Camwood, 10 lbs. of Red Argol and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. Boil 1 hour. ■ MERINOS. ^2 Ko. 141. 10 Pieces, LIGIIT SKY BLUE. Dye witli 2 quarts of Oil of Vitriol, 10 lbs. of Glaubersalts, 10 si)oonfuls of Extract of Indigo. Boil 40 minutes. No. 142. 10 Pieces, DARK SKY BLUE. Dye with 2 quarts of Oil of Vitriol, 10 lbs. of Glaubersalts, 1 gill of Extract of Indigo. Boil 40 minutes. No. 143. 10 Pieces, LAVENDER. Dye with 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol, 10 lbs. of Glaubersalts, 1 lb. of Paste Cudbear, 1 pint of Extract of Indigo. Boil 40 minutes. No. 144. 10 Pieces, RED LAVENDER. Dye with 1 quart of Vitriol, 10 lbs. of Glaubersalts, 2 lbs. of Paste Cudbear, 1 pint of Extract of Indigo. Boil 40 minutes. 63 MERINOS. No. 145. 10 Pieces, MADDER DRAB. Dye with 3 pints of Oil of Vitriol, 10 lbs. of Red Argol, 1 handful of Paste Cudbear, 4 spoonfuls of Extract of Indigo, 6 lbs. of Madder. Boil 1 hour. ■ No. 146. 10 Pieces f FULL DRABr Dye with 8 pints of Oil of Vitriol, 10 lbs. of Red Argol, 1 handful of Paste Cudbear, 1 lb. of Madder, 8 spoonfuls of Extract of Indigo, Boil I hour. No. 147. 10 Pieces, LIGHTER SHADE OF DRAB. Boil 40 minutes with 3 pints of Oil of Vitriol, 1 handful of Paste Cudbear, ^ lb. of Madder, 2 spoonfuls of Extract of Indigo, 10 lbs. of Red Argol, Boil 1 hour. No. 148. 10 Pieces, SILVER DRAB. Dye 'with 3 pints of Oil of Vitriol, 3 spoonfuls of Extract of Indigo, 1 handful of Paste Cudbear, 10 lbs. of Glaubersalts, Boil 40 minutes. - MEKINOS. '64 No. 149. 10 Pieces, BLUE BLACE. To Dye a good Blue Black on 10 Pieces Merinos, Boil 40 minutes with 1^ lb. of Chrome and Finish in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. ol Logwood and 2 lbs. of Peachwood. Boil 1 hour. No. 150. 10 Pieces, FULL BLACK. Boil with 1| lb. of Chrome for 40 minutes. Finish in a clean vessel with 30 lbs. of Logwood, 10 lbs. of Fustic, 1 lb. of Red Argol, Boil 1 hour. Finished. Worsted Yarns may be Dyed in every respect the same as those of Merinos, they being aU made of Worsted. It will require about the same quantity of Dye Wares to Dye a 100 lbs. of Worsted Yarn as it requires to Dye 10 Pieces Merinos, they being of an average weight of 10 lbs. each. 65 COLOURED ORLEANS and:] COBOURGS from: white warps. No. 151. 10 Pieces, SIX-QUARTER ORLEANS or COBOUROS, 10 lbs. each. CINNAMON BROWN. Prepare the Pieces in the following manner : — Run them 1 hour in a cold water bath containing 20 lbs. of good Sicily Sumac ; then run them 8 Ends in another cold bath containing 2 quarts of Nitrate of Iron at 80“T. ; then run them 8 Ends in a cold bath containing 1 quart of Cotton Spirits ; then wash the Pieces well in cold water. They will then be pre- pared or mordented. Then dye them off with 15 lbs. of Turmeric, 2 lbs. of Lima Peachwood, 2|- lbs. of Alum and 2:1 lbs. of Blue Vitriol. Boil them a half-hour, then wash off and dry. Care should always be taken in dyeing Light Browns not to give more Spirits in the preparation, especially those of an olive hue ; for if more are used the cotton will have a red appearance, and will shew a motly appearance in the fabric. The Dark Browns, the Clarets and the Purples require more Spirits. For those colours the Spirit bath should be made to stand at 4°T. Let that be borne in mind : for it will apply in many of the following receipts. COLOURED ORLI-LVNS AND COBOURGS FROM WHITE WARPS. 60 No. 152. 10 Pieces, RED BROWN. 1 Prepare same as No. 151, and dye off with 20 lbs. of Peachwood, 2 lbs. of Logwood, 5 lbs. of Turmeric, 21 lbs. of Alum and 21 lbs. of Blue Vitriol. Boil a half-hour. Wash off’ and dry. No. 153. 10 Pieces, COFFEE BROWN. Prepare by “ Sumacing” them with 2 lbs. of good Sumac to each Piece; then “Iron” at 2°T. ; then “ Sph-it ” them at 4“T. ; then wash them exceedingly well out of the Spirit bath. In this state the Pieces are said to be “Prepared” or “ mordented ” for Browns. Then dye off' at a boiling heat with 25 lbs. of Lima or Peachwood, 15 lbs. of good Logwood, 8 lbs. of Turmeric, 21 lbs. of Alum and 2l lbs. of Blue Vitriol. Boil 40 minutes, then wash off and dry. No. 164. 10 Pieces, LIGHT CLARET. “Prepare” or “mordent” same as No. 163; then wash well, and then run the Pieces in a decoction of 10 lbs. of Logwood in a cistern of cold water ; then boil them 1 hour with 10 lbs. of Alum ; wash again and finish in a clean bath with 20 lbs. of Peachwood and 2 quarts of Ammonia ; boil 20 minutes in finishing, then wash off and di-y. • 67 COLOUEED ORLEANS AND COBOURGS FROM WHITE WARPS. No. 155. 10 Pieces, MIDDLE CLARET. Prepare the Pieces same as No. 153. Run the Pieces in a decoction of 10 lbs. of Logwood, Then boil 1 hour with 10 lbs. of Alum and 5 lbs. of Logwood. Wash again and finish with 20 lbs. of Peachwood and 2 quarts of Ammonia. Wash and dry. No. 166. 10 Pieces, DARK CLARET. Prepare same as No. 153. Run through 10 lbs. of Logwood, Then boil them 1 hour with 10 lbs. of Logwood and 10 lbs. of Alum. Wash again and finish with 20 lbs. of Peachwood and 3 quarts of Ammonia. Wash and dry. ■ No. 157. 10 Pieces, APPLE GREEN. In a clean vessel. Worsted dye with 6 lbs. of Turmeric, i pint of Sulphate of Indigo, 10 lbs. of Red Argol and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. W ash, then run the Pieces 8 Ends, in 20 lbs. of Sumac, Then 8 Pieces in 2 quarts of Nitrate of L-on. Wash again, then dye off with^6 lbs. of Turmeric and 1 lb. of Blue Vitriol. Boil a half-hour. Wash and dry. ■ COLOURED ORLEANS AND COBOURGS FROM WHITE WARPS. 68 No. 158. 10 Pieces^ LIGHT OLIVE. Worsted Dye with a pint of Sulphate of Indigo, 5 lbs. of Turmeric, 10 lbs. of Red Argol and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. Then Dye off in all respects same as No. 157. No. 159. 10 Pieces, D.4.RK GREEN OLIVE. Worsted Dye with 1^ pint of Sulphate of Indigo, 6 lbs. of Turmeric, 10 lbs. of Super Argol and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. Boil half an hour. Wash well, then “Sumac and Iron” and wash again. Then Dye off with 5 lbs. of Logwood, 5 lbs. of Turmeric and 2 lbs. of Blue Vitriol. Boil 40 minutes. Wash and Dry. - No. ICO. 10 Pieces, BROWN OLIVE, Worsted Dye with 5 lbs. of Turmeric, i a pint of Sulphate of Indigo, 10 lbs. of Red Argol and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. Wash, then “Sumac, Iron, and Spirit” with 1 pint of Cotton Spirits. Wash again and Dye off with 2 lbs. of Logwood, 10 lbs. of Peachwood and lbs. of Blue Vitriol. Boil half an hour. Wash off and Dry. - 69 COLOURED ORLEANS AND COBOURGS FROM WHITE WARPS. No. 161. 10 Pieces, DARK GREEN. Worsted Dye -witli 20 lbs. of Fustic, 3 pints of Sulphate of Indigo, 10 lbs. of Alum and 5 lbs. of Red Argol. Wash, and then “Sumac and Iron.” Wash again, and then to cold bath add 10 lbs. of Logwood. Run the pieces 8 ends. Wash and Dry. 1 No. 162. 10 Pieces, BROWN OLIVE. Worsted Dye with 5 lbs. of Turmeric, 1 gill of Sulphate of Indigo, 10 lbs. of Red Argol and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. Then wash, then “Sumac, Iron, and Spirit” same as No. 151, with 1 pint of Cotton Spirits, Then wash again, then dye off with 2 lbs. of Logwood, 8 lbs. of Peachwood, 10 lbs. of Turmeric, 2 lbs. of Alum and 2 lbs. of Blue Vitriol. - No. 163. 10 Pieces, DARK GREEN. Worsted Dye with 20 lbs. of Fustic, 3 pints of Sulphate of Indigo, 10 lbs. of Alum and 5 lbs. of Red Argol. Then wash and dye the Cotton by first running the pieces through Sumac and Iron, wash again ; then run 8 ends in a cold bath with 10 lbs. of spent Logwood. Wash and dry. 1 COLOURED ORLEANS AND COBOURGS FROM WHITE WARPS. 70 No. 164. 10 Fieces, INVISIBLE GREEN. Worsted Dye came as No. 163, but add 1 quart more Sulphate of Indigo. Cotton Dye same as No. 163. - No. 165. 10 Pieces, LIGHT BROWN. Prepare same as No. 151, then dye off with 20 lbs. of Peachwood, 10 lbs. of Turmeric, 5 lbs. of Logwood, 2 lbs. of Alum and 2 lbs. of Blue Vitriol. Boil 40 minutes. Wash and dry. - No. 166. 10 Pieces, CLARET. Prepare same as No. 153. Boil 1 hour with 10 lbs. of Alum and 6 lbs. of Logwood. Then wash and finish with 24 lbs. of Peachwood and 1 quart of Ammonia. 1 71 COLOURED ORLEANS AND COBOURGS FROM WHITE WARPS. [ 1 1 1 1 No. 167. i 10 Pieces, MAEOONi i 1 In the first place Dye the worsted in a clean vessel 1 with 10 Ihs. of good Cudbear; wash, and then Dye j the Cotton by running the Pieces through 20 lbs. of 1 Sumac for about an hour ; then run them 8 Ends j in a cold hath, adding to it 1 quart of good 1 Nitrate of Iron ; then wash, then run them in a 1 warm bath containing 30 lbs. of Peachwood, run 8 \ Ends ; then take the Pieces up on the Wench and j add 3 quarts of Muriate of Tin, or run them 8 Ends 1 in a seasoned “Spirit bath,” standing at 4°T., then i wash off and dry. 1 This is a peculiarly nice full Crimson Maroon, and is the best mode I have discovered for dyeing those full bright shades of Maroon on Orleans and Cobourgs. 1 1 No. 168. 10 Pieces, SEA GEEEN, BLUE SHADE. Worsted Dye with 10 lbs. of Fustic, j 10 lbs. of Alum, 1 2 lbs. of White Argol and 1 pint of Sulphate of Indigo. : To Dye the Cotton run the Pieces 20 minutes in j Nitrate of Iron at 4"T. ; then run them 6 Ends 1 1/ lbs. of Prussiate of Potash in a vessel of cold ji water; take out and add 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol, 1 ; run 8 Ends more and wash off. il 1 COLOURED ORLEANS AND COBOURGS FROM WHITE WARPS. 72 No. 1G9. 10 Pieces, PINK. j These were first Worsted Dyed with 5 pints of Nitrate of Tin, 2 lbs. of White Argol, 5 ozs. of Dry Cochineal and 6 ozs. of Paste Cochineal. They were then washed and Cotton Dyed in a cold bath with 1 pint of bottled Safflower and 1 giU of Oil of Vitriol. They were then washed off in cold water and dryed. No. 170. 10 Pieces, SKY BLUE. Worsted Dye with 3 pints of Extract of Indigo, 10 lbs. of Glaubersalts and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. Then wasli and Cotton Dye as follows : — Rnn 8 Ends in a solution of Nitrate of Iron at 2“T. ; Then run 8 Ends through another bath containing 1^ lbs. of Yellow Prussiate of Potash ; lift and add half a pint of Oil of Vitriol, run 8 ends more and wash and dry. ■ No. 171. 10 Pieces, LAVENDER DRAB. Worsted Dye with 1 pint of Extract of Indigo, 2 ozs. of good Cudbear, 10 lbs. pf Glaubersalts and 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol. Dye the Cotton Blue in the Copperas Vat either before or after dyeing the Worsted. i 1 1 i _____ i 73 COLOURED ORLEANS AND COBOURGS FROM WHITE WARPS. No. 172. 10 Pieces, SILVEE DEAB. First, Worsted Dye the pieces with 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol, 10 lbs. of Glaubersalts, 2 ozs. of Paste Cudbear and 4 spoonfuls of Extract of Indigo. Boil half an hour. Then wash and Cotton Dye as follows : — “ Sumac and Iron,” then to a clean bath of cold water add half a pint of Oil of Vitriol. Eun the pieces in this bath 8 ends. Wash off and dry. This mode of Cotton Dyeing Drabs is the best I have ever discovered, and is one that may be relied upon at all times. The Oil of Vitriol clears the Worsted and brightens the Cotton. Care must be taken not to add too much Oil of Vitriol, or the Cotton may be too light. No. 173. 10 Pieces, FLAT DEAB. Worsted Dye with 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol, 4 spoonfuls of Sulphate of Indigo, 1 handful of Mull Madder, 4 ozs. of Cudbear and 10 lbs. of Glaubersalts. Wash and Cotton Dye same as No. 172. No. 174. 10 Pieces, DAEK FAWN DEAB. Worsted Dye with 10 lbs. of Glaubersalts, 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol, 2 ozs. of Cudbear, 5 lbs. of Madder and 2 spoonfuls of Sulphate of Indigo. Wash and Cotton Dye same as No. 172. 1 COLOURED ORLEANS AND COBOURGS FROM WHITE WARPS. 74 No. 175. 10 Pieces, DARK DRAB. Worsted Dye with 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol^ 10 lbs. of Glaubersalts, pint of Sulphate of Indigo, 4 ozs. of Gudbear and 10 lbs. of Mull Madder. Wash and Cotton Dye by “ Sumacingr Ironing,” and then passing the Pieces through a decoction of Catacue in another bath. Wash off and dry. \ No. 176. 10 Pieces, DARK CLARET. Prepare in all respects same as No. 153. Then boil the Pieces 1 hour in 1 ib. of Chrome, then wash and finish with 20 lbs, of Peachwood, 2 lbs. of Logwood and 4 ozs. of Alum. Wash and dry. - No. 177. 10 Pieces, ADELAIDE. Prepare same a§ No. 153. Chrome same as No. 176. Finish in a clean vessel with 2 lbs. of Cudbear, 10 lbs. of Peachwood and 2 lbs. of Logwood. Boil 40 minutes. Wash and Dry. 1 No. 178. 10 Pieces, MULBERRY. Prepare same as No. 153. Chrome same as No. 176. Then wash, and finish with 2 lbs. of Logwood, 20 lbs. of Peachwood and 1 quart of Ammonia. Boil 40 minutes. Wash and dry. m 75 COLOURED ORLEANS AND COBOURGS FROM WHITE WARPS. No. 179. 10 Pieces, EOYAL BLUE. First run the Pieces, 2 Ends through the Copperas vat ; then 8 Ends in bath of Nitrate of Iron, at 4°T. ; then in a bath of weak solution of Ammonia. Eepeat three times in each of the two last baths. The cotton will then be prepared to receive the Prussiate along with the Worsted, which is dyed with 8 lbs. of Prussiate of Potash and 7 quarts of Blue Spirit. Before the Pieces are entered, the liquor must be heated up to 100 F. After having run a few Ends at that heat, the steam must be put on and the liquor gradually got up to a boil in half an hour ; and after been boiled 20 minutes the Pieces must be wound on to the wench. Then add 3 quarts of Muriate of Tin and 2 lbs. of Logwood. The Pieces must then be entered again and boiled 20 minutes, then got out to be washed. Wash and dry. No. 180. 20 Pieces, FULL BLACK. In the first place boil the Pieces in 2 lbs. of Bychrome for 1 hour, then “ Sumac ” and “ Iron ” them, then wash them, then Dye the Worsted with 50 lbs. of Logwood, 15 lbs. of Fustic and 2 lbs. of Bed Argol. Boil 40 minutes. Wash and dry. ■ No. 181. 10 Pieces, DARK ANILINE BLUE. First Worsted Dye in a clean vessel with 1 lb. of “ Serge Aniline Blue ” and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. Boil 30 minutes. Wash the Pieces in cold water, then Cotton Dye them in manner following : — “ Sumac and Iron ” them in the usual way, then wash off and dry. If the Cotton is not then dark enough, run the Pieces through a weak decoction of Logwood. - — — — COLOURED ORLEANS AND COBOURGS FROM WHITE WARPS. 76 No. 182. 10 Pieces, DARK ANILINE GREEN. First Worsted Dye with 1 lb. of'* Serge Aniline Blue,” 1 lb. of Picric acid and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. Wash and Dye the Cotton black as follows : — “ Sumac” and “ Iron ” it, then run it throngh a weak decoction of Logwood in a cold bath, say 8 Ends, then wash and dry. ■ 1 I I ii II THE MODE OF DYEING 1 FINE ANILINE COLOURS. 1 ^ 1 ■1 j No. 183. j MAGENTA, (Red Shade.) I No. 184. MAGENTA, (Blue Shade.) m This colour is dyed from the Magenta Crystals alone. The quantity of Magenta to be used for dyeing the above Shade of Colour is about half an ounce to each lb. of Cloth, Worsted, or Silk to be Dyed. The Magenta is soluble in water, and should be dissolved in a sufficient quantity in an earthen vessel before it is put into the Dyeing vat, pan, cistern, copper, or kettle, or by whatever name is given to the vessel in which the Cloth, Worsted, Wool, or Silk is to be Dyed. The best mode of dissolving the Magenta is by adding to every '^llon of hot water 3 ozs. of Magenta Crystals and a small quantity of Muriatic Acid, which must be agitated with a wooden spoon for a 77 MAGENTA. few minutes, then strained through a rough cloth or a fine woven wire sieve so as to prevent any of the undissolved Crystals (if any) getting into the Dyeing vessel, which might spot or stain the Cloth to be Dyed. * There are two sorts of Magenta, one which Dyes the Eed Shade, and the other sort the Blue Shade. They are both about the same in price and quality ; but when the Bed Shade of colour is to be Dyed, the Eed Shade of Magenta should be used, otherwise an acid would have to be used to redden it ; the effect of which would in some measure destroy the beauty of the colour. In the Dyeing of this colour the vessel and everything about it should be very clean. The Liquor in the vessel should be heated up to boihng point before the material to be Dyed is entered into it, but it is not necessary that it should be boiled in the liquor as the colouring matter soon adheres to the cloth, and is therefore soon Dyed to the shade required. By adding more or less Magenta almost every shade of Magenta colour may be obtained, varying from a very hght pink up to a dark crimson colour upon the material, whether it be Clbth, Wool, Worsted or Silk. But to Dye these various shades of Magenta Colours upon Cotton Yams and Cotton Fabrics, the Cotton must be prepared by what are called “ Mordants,” and one of the best yet discovered is manipulated in the following manner : — fill a vessel of convenient size for the quantity of goods to be Dyed, say about two thirds full of clean cold water, to which add a sufficient quantity of Gallic Acid or a decoction of Sumac. It may be known that when a sufficient quantity of either of these astringent matters have been added to the water for that purpose, that the water will be made to taste bitter, and leave a roughness upon the tongue after tasting it. The Cotton must then be put into the vessel and be worked or kept in motion for about an hour until it is properly saturated with the mordant. It must then be taken out of this vessel and put into another filled with clean cold water, to which has been added a sufficient quantity of Cotton Spirits to raise the water to 2 degrees Twaddle. The Cotton must be worked or kept in motion in this solution for about half an hour, then taken out and well washed in clean cold water, after which it is ready to be dyed. The cotton should then be Dyed in a clean vessel at about one hundred degrees Far., with a sufficient quantity of MAGENTA. COTTON SPIRITS. 78 Magenta to produce the shade of colour required whether it be a light pink or a dark crimson, or any other shade of Magenta colour. If the goods to be Dyed are made of Cotton and Worsted, or Cotton and Woollen called “Union Goods,” and when both the Cotton and the Woollen are required to be Dyed the same colour, the Cotton must be prepared by this process, after which it may be Dyed along with the Woollen with which it was woven or spun ; or it may be Dyed either after or before the Woollen part of the Fabric has been Dyed, just as it may suit the taste and convenience of the Dyer. This mode of preparing the Cotton for the Magenta Colours is also applicable for other Aniline Colours, such as Crimsons, Scarlets, Ponceaus, Lilacs, Purples and Browns, and may be relied upon at all times to be a sure and safe mode. HOW TO MAKE THE COTTON SPIEITS FOR THESE AND ALL OTHER COLOURS. To every 4 lbs. of Muriatic Acid add 2 ozs. of Tin; let the Muriatic Acid eat up as much of the Tin as it wiU, then add to it 2 lbs. of Nitric Acid. The Nitric Acid will assist the Muriatic Acid to eat up the Tin. When it has done so the Spirit is ready for use and will keep any length of time. Muriatic Acid is (Spirits of Salts,) and Nitric Acid is (Aqua Fortis.) No. 185. PONCEAU CRIMSON. Dyed off at boiling point with | oz. of Eosine B., and a little Acetic Acid. No. 186. ANILINE YELLOW, or ORANGE COLOUR. 79 YELLOW, BROWN, PURPLE AND VIOLET COLOURS. This colour is Dyed in all respects the same as the Magenta but with an Aniline Yellow instead of the Magenta Crystals, using about one ounce of Aniline Yellow to each pound of Cloth. To Dye Yellow on Cotton, prepare in all respects same as for the Magenta ; then Dye with a decoction of Flavine or Fustic to shade. No. 187. BISMAEK BROWN. The Bismark Browns are Dyed the same as the Magenta with this exception, that an acid may be used in the Dye bath without materially * affecting the colour. About 1 oz. of good Bismark Brown will dye a good Brown on one pound of Cloth or Yarn. If the Cloth to be Dyed has a Cotton Warp it must be prepared and Cotton Dyed same as the Magenta Colours, but with Bismark Brown instead of Magenta. No. 188. THE PURPLE AND VIOLET COLOURS. No. 189. Of these fine Purple and Violet Colours there is a great variety of shades and tints, varying from a Dark Crimson colour to an Indigo Blue, and therefore it would be useless to give receipts and patterns for all of them ; but it will be necessary to state about the quantity of Purple Dye which will produce the colours of the patterns which are here attached as samples. Yet it is with difficulty even to do so, as THE PURPLE AND VIOLET COLOURS. 80 there are so many sorts and qualities of those Dyes in the market, and so many professed makers of the same thing, or what is called by the same name. The Purple and Violet shades Of colour are sold by the standard makers and numbers which appear upon the Box or Bottle in which they are supplied to the Dyer. They are Numbered from 10 to 40. The No. 10 is the Bed Shade of purple, and the No. 40 is the Blue Shade of Violet. These Dyes are supplied in such a variety of shades that the Dyer may obtain the exact sort he may require for any given shade of colour varying from a light purple to the dark violet colour I have here attached. 1 These two colours vary as much as possible, one being Dyed from the No. 10 Shade of Purple, and the other from No. 40 Blue Shade of Violet; but I may say, that all the various Shades and Tints varying from the one to the other may be Dyed from those two Dyes alone by varying the quantity of Purple and Violet colouring matter. This will have to be done by the practical Dyer using so much of the one and so little of the other to produce the required shade of colour. To Dye the Blue Shade of Violet as above on 100 lbs, of Cloth, Wool or Yarn, about 7 ozs. of No. 40 Violet Blue Powder will be required, as that is a very Blue Shade of Colour. The 7 ozs. of the Blue Violet must be dissolved in hot water and the contents passed through a sieve and put into a Dyeing vessel, to which must be added about 1 quart of Sulphuric Acid (Oil of Vitriol) and about 10 lbs. of Soda Crystals. The Cloth, Yarn, or Wool to be Dyed must be entered into the Dyeing Vessel at about 170 degrees Fah. ; after a few turns put on the steam and heat up the Dye liquor to the boil, after which the goods must be boiled in it for about half an hour, then taken out of the vessel and washed off. The Eed Shade of Purple Colour here attached is Dyed in all respects the same as the Blue Shade of Violet, but with 7 ozs. of the Red Shade of Purple Dye No. 10, in the place of the 7 ozs* of Blue Shade of Violet No. 40. When the goods to be Dyed are Union Cloths, they must be Dyed in all respects the same as the Magenta Colour is Dyed, but with Aniline Purple in the place of the Magenta. One would conclude that these fine Purples excel the “Syrian Purple,” which was obtained from a shell fish, and which at one time sold, as historians say, for £40 per lb. ; which was the price when P. Len- 81 PURPLE, VIOLET, AND BLUE COLOURS. tulus Stunter was ^Edile, Cicero being then consul. But after this it became less rare. “As soon as mankind were acquainted with the Purple as a Dye, they seem to have considered it, not only as being of all others the most estimable in itself, but also the most acceptable to the Gods. It was, therefore naturally appropriated to the service of religion and of its ministers, as well as to distinguish the highest naval and military dignitaries. Pliny has noticed the use made of it by Romulus and succeeding kings of Rome, as well as afterwards by the consuls and higher magistrates of the republic. Under the Roman emperors it became the peculiar emblem or symbol of majesty, and the wearing of it by any who were not of the imperial family, was deemed a treasonable usurpation, punishable by death.” No. 190. No. 191. These are perhaps the finest Blue Colours ever produced either from Aniline or any other Dyeing substance, and they require very different treatment from all other Aniline Dyes, in as much as the colour requires to be developed with an acid after it has been prepared with an Alkali. The colours obtained from those Alkaline Blue Dyes are manipu- lated sometimes in one Dyeing bath only, called the “ Single Bath,” but generally in two called the “Double Bath.” I will here give the manufacturer’s instructions for using the single and double baths. “ Directions for using the Blue and Humboldt.” Suitable for Dyeing SUk, Wool, and Cotton, without the use of Spirits. ANILINE BLUESv 82 BY DOUBLE BATH. Add the Dye very slowly to a bath made slightly Alkaline with Carb. Soda or Borax, and work at a temperature not exceeding 190 degrees Fahrenheit ; afterwards wash and develop the colour in a separate bath of acidulated water only. Note. — If the Dye bath is sufficiently Alkaline, the Fabric will come out nearly colourless. As the Dye cannot be exhausted it should be worked continuously. BY SINGLE BATH. Dissolve 1 lb. Gelatine or Glue in 2 gallons of boiling water and filter; add this to a bath of about 100 gallons, and slightly sour with Sulphuric Acid or Alum. After the Fabric has been well immersed in the bath, add the Dye very slowly, and work at a boiling tempera- ture. The success of this mode entirely depends on the slowness by which the Dye is added to the bath. Note. — Both methods require that the Dyes should be diluted before used. TO DISSOLVE THE DYES. Boil 1 lb. in one gallon of water until dissolved, and then add water to make it up to 10 gallons; the more diluted the Dye is be- fore adding it to the bath, the brighter and faster will be the result. There are four of those Dyes in general use, and from these most of the fine shades of Alkaline Blues are obtained. They are known by a number or a letter. The numbers are — 1, 2, 3, 4. The letters are— B., B.B., B.B.B., B.B.B.B., and R. and 0. The variety of shades obtained from these Dyes are so numerous that it is unnecessary to give receipts and patterns for all of them ; and therefore it must be left to the judgment of the Dyer to obtain the shade of colour he requires : but for the general instruction of all concerned I may say, to obtain the shade of colour shown by the pattern affixed will require about 1 pint of liquid Alkaline Blue, No. 3, to each 20 lbs. of Wool or Worsted to be Dyed, and the goods must be Dyed in the manner following: — make the first bath a little alkaline with about 10 lbs. of Silicate of Soda, Borax, or common Soda Crystals, then add for 100 lbs. of Wool, Cloth, or Yarns to be Dyed, 5 pints of the Blue liquid Dye ; then enter the goods to be Dyed in this bath, which is called the “First Bath.’’ This bath must be heated up to 190 degrees before the goods are entered into it. Run the goods in this bath for about 30 or 83 ANILINE BLUES. 40 minutes, then take them out and enter them into the “ Second Bath,” which is a bath of cold water to which has been added 4 pints of Sulphuric Acid (Oil of Vitriol). This second bath will develop the colour in a few minu'tes ; hut in order to know that there is a sufficient quantity of colouring matter upon the cloth before it is developed, cut a small piece from the cloth and dip it in the second hath, by which means you may know exactly the amount of colour the pieces have received in the first bath before they are fully developed in the second bath. If there is not a sufficient amount of colour upon the cloth, more may he added to the first bath and the cloth re-entered, so that it may be Dyed to the shade required. When a bloomy Blue shade of colour is required like the darker shade affixed, add a little Humboldt Blue along with the other Blue colouring matter in the first bath. When the pieces are taken out of the first bath they will be almost colourless if the bath be in proper order or sufficiently alkaline. The 0. Blue Dyes the lightest shade of colour, and to Dye 100 lbs. of Wool, Worsted, or Cloth use 2 quarts of it, or a little more if necessary. For a more bloomy shade, use 2 quarts of No. 3 Blue; and where a more bloomy shade is required, use No. 3 Blue and add Humboldt according to the shade required. The first pieces, of whatever material they are, or the first yarns Dyed after the bath is first prepared are never so bright and clear in colour as those Dyed afterwards ; therefore it is necessary if possible to keep Dyeing one vessel full after another without emptying it. This is what Dyers call “a seasoned hole,” or seasoned bath. The goods to be Dyed into these Alkaline Blues should be well cleaned before they are Dyed, and should not be entered into the Dye bath in a dry state, but bo well “wet out,” that is, properly saturated. Some Dyers prefer to buy the Alkaline Blue in a powdered state instead of a liquid state, for it is sold in both to suit customers. When it is in the powder, it has to be dissolved in hot w'ater after the rate of 3 ozs. of powder to one gallon of water: this constitutes what the Dyer calls “ The Standard Liquor,” 2nd from this standard he uses a certain quantity according to the shade of colour required. To Dye a first rate colour, say upon 10 pieces of fine 6/4 French Merinos or Bastings, all Wool, 200 lbs. weight in all, the Dyer should use about 12 pints of the Standard Liquor, and then Dye the pieces in the following manner : in a clean vessel of water, called the “ First Bath,” at about 190 ANILINE BLUES. 84 I degrees he should add IG lbs. of Borax and 6 pints of the Standard j Liquor, then enter his pieces and run them in the bath for about one I hour, then ho should turn the pieces out of this bath into one of clean j cold water to cool them to prevent creasing, which sometimes takes I place when fine goods of this kind are rolled upon the Dye wench in a hot state. The Dyer should then add G pints more of his Standard Liquor, and should enter his pieces again, and turn them over in the bath about half an hour longer. He should then wash the pieces I through clean cold water a second time, then take them into the I second bath to develop the colour. This second bath is a bath of j clean water to which has been added 3 quarts of Sulphuric Acid. The pieces should then be turned over in this acid bath for about 30 minutes, then washed off in clean cold water and dried. The reason why the Standard Liquor is added at twice instead of once is, because it is safer to do so to insure evenness and solidity of colour, which might otherwise not be so were the whole of the colouring matter to be given at one time. If a second 10 pieces of the same kind had to be dyed in the same vessel, and to the same shade of colour, the dyer should only add to his first bath about G lbs. of Borax in the place of IG lbs., but he should add the same quantity of Standard Liquor as when he entered his first pieces ; but in the second i entry, he should add only about 3 pints instead of G pints, as that I quantity would produce the same shade of colour; being dyed in what I the dyer calls his “ Season Hole,” or Seasoned Bath. It will be seen 1 that there is a considerable saving to the dyer when he can keep his baths going on from day to day without emptying them after Dyeing only one lot of goods. These Blues are sometimes Dyed upon Union Fabrics ; such as Orleans, Cobourgs, and other fancy goods, and for the information of those who wish to know hov/ they are Dyed I will here give the ■ mode and state as nearly as possible the quantity of colour matter j required to Dye 10 pieces G/1 Orleans or Cobourgs in a “ Seasoned 1 j Hole ” or bath, or old liquor in which goods have been Dyed before. To an old liquor add 3 lbs. of Borax, about a ] of a pint of No, 4 B. | Blue, and a 4 of a pint of E. Blue. In this bath run 10 ends at 190 degrees F., then take the pieces out and add to the bath another 4 of a pint of E. Blue, run 10 ends more and wash off. Then Dye ■ the Cotton as follows; — Eun 2 ends through a Cotton Dyeing machine 85 NIGHT GREENS OR IODINE GREENS. used for that purpose, called the “ Blueing Machine” by the Dyer. Into the first trough of this machine filled with cold water, add 2 quarts of Nitrate of Iron, 70 T. ; and 1 pint of Double Muriate of Tin, at 120 T. Then run the pieces through clean water in the second trough, and to a sufficient quantity of cold water in the third trough I add lb. of Prussiate of Potash previously dissolved in hot water, then add about ^ pint of Oil of Vitriol, then wash. Then take the pieces to the Padding Machine while on the roller, and pad them with 2 gallons of Padding Blue Violet liquor, and 2 or 3 quarts of “ Cotton Blue.” Give these at twice, and run the pieces 3 ends each time. Both the Violet and Blue liquors are made as follows : — Dissolve the colour required after the rate of 10 ozs. in one gallon of water. These Blues are soluble 10 ozs. in one gallon of water. No. 192. “ NIGHT GREENS ” or “ IODINE GREENS.” These Greens are Dyed in all respects the same as the Alkaline Blues are Dyed, with this exception, after they are prepared in the “ First Bath ” they are Yellowed at the boiling point in the “ Second Bath,” that is, when the colour is not Yellow enough. The Yellow colouring matter to be used for this purpose is Picric Acid, and it may be used either in the “ Second Bath ” or in a separate bath at the boiling point. The colour affixed has a little Picric Acid upon it. Iodine itself does not give quite so yeUow a shade as the pattern except specially prepared for it. ! By varying the amount of Iodine and Picric Acid any shade of ! Night Green may be obtained on Silk, Cotton, or Wool. To Dye 100 lbs of Cloth all Wool to the above pattern will require j about 6 lbs. of Iodine Green Paste or 3 lbs. of Powder, which must be dissolved in boiling water and be added to the “ First Bath,” which I must have been previously made to be Alkaline with 10 lbs. of Silicate I of Soda, Borax, or common Soda, as stated in the instructions given in the Alkaline Blue Bath, No 1, called the “Double Bath.” NIGHT GREENS OK IODINE GREENS. 86 The Green is developed in the “ Second Bath,” which has been made acid with Sulphuric Acid (Oil of Vitriol) as stated in the Alka- line Blue Bath, No. 2, or “ Second Bath.” If the colour when developed is not then of a sufficient Yello^w hue, heat the bath up to the boiling point and add a small quantity of Picric Acid and enter the pieces again, and give a few turns more and j you will obtain the required shade in a few minutes. It is not ! necessary to give any further instructions here about this colour on the Dyeing of Wool, Cloth, or Worsted Yarns as the foregoing process will answer all pm-poses for these ; but it is necessary to give a little more on the Dyeing of Union Cloths, such as Orleans and Cobourgs, as they are Dyed in many respects like the Alkaline Blue Union Cloths. I will therefore give a receipt and the process by which the colour is Dyed on Union Cloths. To Dye 20 pieces Orleans Night Green like the pattern here affixed : in the first place Dye the Worsted part of the piece a very Light Sky Blue Colour at boiling point with 60 lbs. of Glaubersalts, 1^ pint of good Indigo Extract, and 6 pints of Sulphuric Acid. It is safer to add the extract at twice than all at once. Boil half an hour, then wash and Cotton Dye as follows : — Mordant (prepare) the cotton with about G ozs. of Blue Nut GaUs to each piece in a trough of cold water. The Galls must have been previously bruised or ground and steeped in boiling water for an hour, the Gall liquor must then be poured off from the settlings into the trough. The pieces must bo run in the trough containing the Gall liquor for at least four hours. The pieces must then be removed to a second trough without being washed from the Gall liquor ; to this second trough of cold water add 2^ gallons of Cotton Spirit. In this trough run three or four ends and wash in clean cold water. The pieces must then be run through what is called by the Dyer “ The Greening Machine,” a machine made like a double cistern with two deep troughs, add to the first trough 8 pints of Iodine Green Liquor. The Iodine Green Liquor is made as follows ; — dissolve 1 pound of Iodine Green Paste in 1 gallon of water ; run a few ends and then wash in the second trough. Then take the pieces to another trough to which has been added about 8 ozs. of good Picric Acid, run three or four ends and wash off for the stove or dry- ing machine. When yellower shades are required add more Picric Acid. When the cotton is not of a sufficient yellow tint, add a little 87 ITALIANS. Fustic Liquor or Cuba Extract and a little Alum to the Picric Acid liquor trough, run a few ends more. The Dyeing of these Union Cloths may appear to be difficult and tedious to an inexperienced person, but to the practical Dyer it is simple and easy. No. 193. 10 Pieces, f ITALIANS, 10 lbs. each. INVISIBLE GEEEN, FROM ANILINE. First Dye the Worsted with 2 lbs. of Navy Blue, 2 quarts of Oil of Vitriol and 1 lb. of Picric Acid. m Boil 1 hour, then wash and Dye the Cotton in manner following: — “Sumac and Iron,” then wash again and run the pieces through a weak decoction of Logwood in a cistern of cold water. No. 194. 10 Pieces, i ITALIANS. DARK BLUE, FROM ANILINE. ; First Dye the Worsted with 2 lbs. of Navy Blue and i 2 quarts of Oil of Vitriol. Boil 1 hour. Then wash and Cotton Dye same as No. 193. i| 1 , No. 195. ! 10 Pieces, FINE COBOURGS. EOSINE ORANGE. Tliese pieces were first “Sumaced and Spirited,” then washed and Dyed off in a clean vessel with 10 ozs. of Eosine. They were Dyed at boil, but not boiled. I FIGURED ORLEANS. 88 No. 196. 10 Pieces, SIX-QUARTERS FIGURED ORLEANS, 10 lbs. each, ANILINE CARDINAL. The Worsted was first Dyed in a clean vessel with 1^ lbs. of Aniline Scarlet Dye and 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol, they were entered cool, steam was applied to the bath and was gradually got up to the boiling point, and run 15 minutes without boiling. They were then washed and Cotton Dyed by first being “ Sumaced and Spirited,” then they were run in a decoction of Lima Peachwood in a lukewarm bath 15 minutes. They were then turned upon the wench, and 1 quart of Mu- riate of Tin was added to the Peachwood decoction, the pieces were entered into the bath again and run 10 ends. Finished. They had 2 lbs. of Peachwood to each piece, which was boiled in the bottom of the bath. 1 j 1 1 i No. 197. 10 Pieces, GRAIN CRIMSON. These were first Worsted Dyed wuth 2^ lbs. of Cochineal, 4 pints of Muriate of Tin and 2 lbs. of Brown Tartar. Then they were Cotton Dyed same as No. 196. Hi No. 198. NEW MODE OF DYEING SCARLET. 10 Pieces, NEW SCARLET. Dyed in manner following: — The Cotton was “Sum- aced and Spirited,” they Dyed Scarlet in Scarlet vat No. 2. Then the Worsted was Dyed with 1^ lb. of “Scarlet Aniline,” 10 lbs. of Glaubersalts and 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol. The pieces were entered at boiling point and run 10 minutes. Finished, i 8j9 FIGURED ORLEANS. ! No. 199. 10 Pieces, SCARLET. DYED BY ANOTHER MODE THE SAME COLOUR. These pieces were first Cotton Dyed same as No. 198, they were then Dyed in the usual way with Cochineal and Muriate of Tin, but without any Tartar or Argol. Boiled 15 minutes and washed off. These Unions are as solid as if they were all Worsted fabrics, showing no mixture whatever. 1 1 - No. 200. 10 Pieces, SCARLET. DYED ANOTHER WAY. They were first “ Sumaced and Spirited,” then well washed and Dyed off in a clean vessel with 1 lb. of Aniline Scarlet R., 2 lbs. of Alum and 5 lbs. of Lima Peachwood. Dyed at boil. In this mode of Dyeing Scarlet the Peachwood Dyes the Cotton at the same time the “ Aniline Scarlet” Dyes the Worsted. - 1 No 201. 10 Pieces, YELLOW. “ Sumac and Spirit,” 1 Then Dye off with 5 ozs. of Flavine and 1 pint of Muriate of Tin. 1 Boil 10 minutes and wash off. - FIGURED ORLEANS. 90 No. 202. 10 Pieces, ORANGE. “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in a clean vessel with 2 lbs. of Peachwood, [ 1 lb. of Good Flavine, 8 ozs. of Cochineal and 1 quart of Muriate of Tin. Boil 10 minutes and wash off. No. 203. 10 Pieces, DARK ORANGE. These were first prepared and Dyed in all respects same as the No. 202, but had a little more Cochineal and a little more Peachwood. By this mode of Dyeing union cloths of any kind, the Cotton is as well Dyed as the Worsted. 1 No. 204. 10 Pieces, NICE ORANGE COLOUR DYED ANOTHER WAY. These were Cotton Dyed same as No. 198, but tlie Cotton was not Dyed so dark a colour. They were afterwards Dyed off with 8 ozs. of Aniline Scarlet Dye,” 8 ozs. of Flavine and 2 lbs. of Alum. Boil 10 minutes. This is a good mode of Dyeing those colours on mixed Fabrics, inasmuch at it Dyes them solid and even, clear and bright. i No. 205. 1 I 10 Pieces, FULL ANILINE MAROON OR CARDINAL. 1 , These were Dyed as follows : — the Worsted was Dyed first with 14 lbs. of Aniline Scarlet, R., and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. The pieces were then washed, then “ Sumaced and Spirited,” and then well washed, then Cotton Dyed in the Magenta vat. ■ j 91 FIGUEED ORLEANS. No. 206. 10 rieces, FULL MAROON DYED ANOTHER WAY. ] First “ Sumac and Spirit,'’ then Dye off with Magenta to shade. In this and other shades of Maroon, the Cotton and the Worsted will Dye together with this mode of j preparation. 1 ] i No. 207. 10 Fieces, MAGENTA COLOUR OR CARDINAL. These were first Dyed in a clean vessel with 1 lb. of Magenta, then washed, then “ Sumaced and Spirited,” then well washed, then Dyed off in the Magenta vat, No. 1. ■ No. 208. 10 Pieces, VIOLET. \ 1 These were Dyed off at boil with 8 os5s. of Aniline Violet Powder only. Just run a few ends and washed off. In this case the Cotton and the W^orsted Dyed both together. : 1 No. 209. 1 10 Pieces, NEW ANILINE SCARLET. These were first Dyed with about 1 lb. of Aniline j . Scarlet R., 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol, then washed, then they were “ Sumaced and Spirited,” then well washed again, then they were Dyed off with about 1 lb. of 1 Nicholson’s Orange Aniline and a very little Muriate of j Tiu. I think this is one of the nicest Scarlets that can 1 be produced on a Union Cloth. 1 ! FIGUKED ORLEANS. 02 1 No. 210. 10 Pieces, LIGHT MAEOON. This colour was first Dyed witli Magenta only, then ^ '• Sumaced and Spirited,” then Cotton Dyed in the Magenta vat No. 1. \ j 1 No. 211. 10 Pieces, PUKPLE. This was first “ Sumaced and Spirited,” then well j washed, and D 3 ^ed off with 8 ozs. of Eed Shade of j Aniline Purple. No. 212. 10 Pieces, BLUE PURPLE. Prepared same as No. 211, and Dyed off with Aniline Violet to shade, about 8 ozs. No. 213. ‘ 10 Pieces, ANILINE PURPLE. . 1 j This colour was Dyed off with Aniline “ Spirit Blue.” It required no Cotton Dye, the Methylated Spirit with j which the Aniline is dissolved seems to he a mordant for the Cotton. ■ No. 214. 10 Pieces, LILAC. This colour was Dj'cd off with 1 oz. of Aniline “ Spirit Blue,” w’as entered cool, gradually heated up to the boil and run 20 minutes. ^ Almost any shade of Blue can he obtained from this Aniline Dj^e Stuff. 1 93 FIGURED ORLEANS. No. 215. 10 Pieces, DARK SOLID PURPLE. First Dye the Worsted a good Middle Shade of Saxon Blue, with 1 pint of Extract of Indigo and 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol. Then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then dye in purple vat No. 4. 4 No. 216. 10 Pieces, PINK. Both the Cotton and Worsted were dyed off together, with 10 ozs. Saffranine at boiling point, but were not boiled, 6 turns will dye both the Cotton and the Worsted. 1 No. 217. 10 Pieces, SAFFRANINE CRIMSON. “ Sumac and Spirit,” then dye off with Saffranine to .shade, same as No. 216. m No. 218. 10 Pieces, ORANGE BROWN. “ Sumac and Spirit,” then dye off with 2 lbs. of Saffranine and 1 lb. of Bismarck Brown at boil. 1 m No. 219. 10 Pieces, RED SCARLET. “ Sumac and Spirit,” then dye off with 2 lbs. of Saffranine and i lb. of Aniline Scarlet dye. FIGURED ORLEANS. 9-4 No. 220. 10 Pieces, PURE BISMARCK BROWN COLOUR. “ Sumac and Spirit/’ then dye off at boiling point with 8 ozs. Saffranine, 1 lb. of Bismarck Brown and 4 ozs. of Magenta. No. 221. 10 Pieces, RED BISMARCK BROWN. “ Sumac and Spirit,” then dye off with 1 lb. of Bismarck Brown and 4 ozs. of Magenta. This requires no boiling. No. 222. 10 Pieces, ANILINE SCARLET. First “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye Cotton Red with Aniline Cotton Scarlet, then Dye off at boiling point with 1 lb. of Eosine and 1 pint of Acetic Acid. No. 223. 10 Pieces, ORANGE. First Dye the Worsted Orange Colour with i lb. of Aniline Orange and 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol, Then “ Sumac and Sj)irit,” then Cotton Dye by running the pieces 8 ends in the Phosphine vat. Make up a standing Phosxihine vat with 4 lbs. of Phosphine. As the vat gets weakened down by using add a little Phosphine from time to time. This vat may be worked hot or cold as the colour requires. r 95 FIGURED ORLEANS. No. 224. 10 Pieces, FULL DAEK OEANGE COLOUE. First Dye the Worsted Eose colour with 1 lb. of Aniline Scarlet and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol, Then "Sumac and Spirit,” then Cotton dye by running 8 ends in Phosphine Vat at boil. 1 ■ 1 No. 225, 10 Pieces, FULL OEANGE COLOUE. ANOTHEE MODE. First "Sumac and Spirit” the Pieces, then wash well, then Dye off at boil with ^ a lb. each of . Phosphine and Aniline Scarlet, and 1 pint of Acetic Acid. ■ No. 226. 10 Pieces, OEANGE SCAELET. First " Sumac and Spirit ” the Pieces, then wash well, then Dye off at boil with 1 lb. each of Phosphine and Aniline Orange, and 1 quart of Acetic Acid. No. 227. 10 Piece, ANILINE CEIMSON. First Dye the Worsted a full Scarlet Colour with 1^ lb. of Aniline Scarlet and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. Then “Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off at boil by running the Pieces 8 ends in Aniline Ponceau vat. Make up a Ponceau Vat as follows : add 4 lbs. of Aniline Ponceau to a cistern of boiling water, boil a few minutes, when it is ready for use. As the vat gets weakened down by using, add a little Aniline Ponceau from time to time. This vat may be used hot or cold as the colour requires. FIGURED ORLEANS. 96 No. 228. 10 Pieces, YELLOW. Sumac and Spirit,” then dye off at boil in the Phosphine vat. No. 229. 10 P {■cces, FULL ANILINE CRIMSON. First dye the Worsted with i lb. of Aniline Crimson, Then “Sumac and Spirit,” Then dye the Cotton by running 8 ends in the Crimson Vat. Make up a Crimson Vat as follows: — add 4 lbs. Aniline Crimson to a cistern of boihng water, boil a few minutes when it will be ready for use. Cotton may be Dyed in this vat when it is hot or cold according to the fulness of the shade required. No. 230. 10 Pieces, SAFFEANINE CRIMSON. First “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dys off with 1 lb. of Saffranine and 4 ozs. of Magenta at boil. No. 231. 10 Pieces, CLARET. First Worsted Dye with i lb. of Aniline Claret, “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Cotton Dye in Crimson vat at boil. 97 FIGURED ORLEANS'. No. 232. 10 Pieces, LIGHT BLUE VIOLET. First Dye the Worsted with 5 ozs. of Anihne Violet, then “Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off with 5 ozs. of Aniline Purple at boil. '!v No. 233. 10 Pieces, CLARET. First “ Sumac, Iron, and Spirit," then Dye off with 5 ozs. of Magenta, 20 ozs. of Logwood and 1 oz. of Picric Acid. ■ No. 234. 10 Pieces, NAVY BLUE. First “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off at boil with 5 ozs. of Aniline Navy Blue and 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol. ■ No. 235. 10 Pieces, DARK SHADE OF NAVY BLUE. First “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off at boil with 10 ozs. of Aniline Navy Blue and 1 pint of 011 of Vitriol. ■ No. 23G. 10 Pieces, SOLID VIOLET. First “Sumac and Spirit” the pieces, then wash well, then Dye off at boil with 8 ozs. of Aniline Violet. ■ FIGURED ORLEANS. 98 j 1 No. 237. 10 Pieces, CL ABET. 1 First Dye the Worsted with lb. of Magenta, | then “ Sumac, Iron, and Spirit,” then Dye off with ^ lb. of Magenta and 2 lbs. of Logwood. ! i 1 1 No. 238. 10 Pieces, CLARET. First Dye the Worsted with \ lb. of Magenta, then “ Sumac, Iron, and Spirit,” then Dye off with 1 lb. of Magenta and 1 lb. of Logwood. i No. 239. 10 Pieces, VIOLET BLUE. First “ Sumac and Spirit, ”^then Dye off at boil with i lb. of Navy Blue. m No. 240. 10 Pieces, LIGHT RED BROWN. First Dye the Worsted with ^ lb. of Magenta, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off with 2 ozs. of Magenta, 1 lb. of Logwood and 4 ozs. of Picric Acid. HH i i 1 No. 241. 10 Pieces, NUT BROWN. 1 First Dye the Worsted with, 4 lb. of Magenta, j then “ Sumac, Iron, and Spirit,” then Dye off with j \ lb. of Magenta 1 2 lbs. of Logwood and j 6 ozs. of Picric Acid. HB' ' « ' V 1 99 FIGURED ORLEANS. No. 242. 10 Pieces, RED PURPLE. First “ Sumac, Iron, and Spirit,” then Dye off at boil with 6 ozs. of Aniline Violet and 2 ozs. Magenta. No. 243. 10 Pieces, SCARLET BROWN. I • . . j First “ Sumac, Iron, and Spirit,” then Dye off at j boil with i lb. of Magenta and 4 lb. of Picric Acid. ■ No. 244. 10 Pieces, DARK MAGENTA. First “ Sumac, Iron, and Spirit,” then Dye off at boil with 4 lb. of Magenta only. mi ‘ No. 245. j 10 Pieces, DARK SAFFRANINE CLARET. First “Sumac, Iron, and Spirit,” then Dye off at 1 boil with 1 lb. of Safl’ranine only. m No. 246. 10 Pieces, SAFFRANINE CRIMSON. First “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off at boil 11 lb. of Saffraniue only. FIGURED ORLEANS. 100 No. 247. 10 Pieces, LIGHT BISMARCK BROWN. First “ Sumac, Iron, and Spirit,” tlien Dye oflf with 10 ozs. of Bismarck Brown. No. 248. 10 Pieces, DARK BISMARCK BROWN. First “ Sumac, Iron, and Spirit,” then Dye off with 1|^ lb. of Logwood, ^ lb. of Bismarck Brown, 4 ozs. of Aniline Claret and 2 ozs. of Picric Acid. No. 249. 10 Pieces, SERGE BLUE. First Dye the Worsted Dark Blue with 5 ozs. of Serge Blue and i pint of Oil of Vitriol, then “ Sumac and Spirit, then Dye off with 1 lb. of Logwood and 5 ozs. of Serge Blue. No. 250. 10 Pieces, CLARET. First “Sumac, Iron, and Spirit,” then Dye off at boil with 0 ozs. of Magenta and 6 ozs. of Picric Acid. 101 ITALIANS. i No. 251. 1 !i 10 Pieces, LIGHT GREEN AND ORANGE. First Dye the Worsted Sky Blue with j 1 pint of Sulphate of Indigo, 10 lbs. of Glaubersalts and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. i Then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then run 8 ends in the Phosphine vat No. G, cold. Wash off and dry. , i ' No. 252. 10 Pieces, ORANGE AND GREEN. i First Dye the Worsted a Saxon Blue with 3 gills of Sulphate of Indigo, 10 lbs. of Glaubersalts and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. Then “Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye the Cotton to shade in the Phosphine vat No. G, hot. There is sufficient Yellow in the Phosphine to turn the Blue into a Green without adding any other colouring matter. 1 i ! 1 No. 253. ; 10 Pieces, GREEN AND CRIMSON. First Worsted Dye with 3 gills of Sulphate of Indigo, 10 lbs. of Glaubersalts, 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol and 5 ozs. of Picric Acid. Then “Sumac and Spirit,” then Cotton Dye in Crimson vat No. 1, cold. —— - ... . . FIGURED ORLEANS. 102 I No, 254, t ! 10 Pieces, GREEN AND PURPLE. I ! First Worsted Dye same as No. 253, then “ Sumac I and Spirit,” then Cotton Dye in Purple vat No. 4, cold. No. 255, 10 1 'ieces, MID-GREEN AND PURPLE. First Worsted Dye same as No. 253, then Cotton Dye in Purple vat No. 4, hot, adding a little Magenta to redden the Cotton. No. 25G. 10 Pieces, SERGE BLUE AND PURPLE. First Worsted Dye with 10 ozs. of Aniline Navy Blue and 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Cotton Dye in purple vat No. 4, hot. No. 257. 10 Pieces, SERGE BLUE AND CRIMSON. First Dye the Worsted same as No. 256, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Cotton Dye in Crimson No. 1, hot 103 FIGURED ORLEANS. No. 258. 10 Pieces, SAXON BLUE AND CRIMSON. Worsted Dye with 1 quart of Extract of Indigo, 10 lbs. of Glaubersalts and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. 1 Then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Cotton Dye in Crimson vat No. 1, warm. No. 259. 10 Pieces, YELLOW AND CLARET. First Worsted Dye with 5 ozs. of Aniline Yellow only, then '‘Sumac and Spirit,” then Cotton Dye by running the pieces 6 ends in Purple vat No. 4, cold, and 6 ends in Crimson vat No. 1, cold. 1 1 i I I No. 2G0. 1 10 Pieces, ORANGE AND PURPLE. ; First Dye the Worsted with 1 lb. of Aniline Scarlet 1 and 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol at boil, then “ Sumac and ' 1 Spirit,” then Cotton Dye in Purple vat No. 4, cold. 1 h |1 ■l j ' No. 261. 10 Pieces, SCARLET AND PURPLE. First Dye the Worsted with 1^ lb. of Aniline Scarlet and 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol, then Cotton Dye same as No. 260. ■ FIGURED ORLEANS. 104 No. 202. 10 Pieces, LIL4C AND CRIMSON. First Dye the Worsted with 4 ozs. of Aniline Blue and 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” and Cotton Dye in Crimson vat No. 1 warm. m No. 203. 10 Pieces, BLACK AND BLUE. First Dye the Worsted a common Black. To Dye the Black boil the pieces 20 minutes in 1^ lb. of Bichromate of Potash, then wash, then Dye the Worsted with 20 lbs. of Logwood, boil half an hour. Then Bleach the Cotton with a little Chloride of Lime and a little Oil of Vitriol, then wash well, then run the pieces for half an hour in a solution of Nit- rate of Iron, at 3“T. ; then dissolve 2 lbs. of Yellow Prussiate of Potash and add it to a bath of cold water, run 8 ends in this bath, then wash off. ■ No. 264. 10 Pieces, BLACK AND GREEN First AVorsted Dye a Common Black same as No. 263. then Cotton Dye same as No. 263, after which run 8 ends in a warm bath containing 5 lbs. of Turmeric and 2 lbs. of Alum. No. 265. V 10 Pieces, BLACK AND PURPLE. First Dye the Worsted a common black same as No. 263, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Cotton Dye in Purple vat No. 4, hot. ■ 105 FIGURED ORLEANS. No. 266. 10 Pieces, BLACK AND CKIMSON. First Dye the Worsted a commom Black same as No. 263, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Cotton Dye in Crimson vat No. 1, hot. j No. 267. 10 Pieces, BLACK AND ORANGE. ' First Dye the Worsted Black same as No. 263, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Cotton Dye in Orange vat j No. 6, cold. i j No. 268. 10 Pieces, BLACK AND YELLOW. First Dye the Worsted Black same as No. 263, then Cotton Dye in a warm vat made up with 10 lbs. of Turmeric and 5 lbs. of Alum. ! i No. 269. ; 10 Pieces, SCARLET AND YELLOW. | First Dye the Worsted with lbs. of Aniline Scar- 1 let and 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol, then Cotton Dye in all respects same as No. 268. 1 1 i i 1' No. 270. 1 ; 10 Pieces, YELLOW AND CRIMSON. First Dye the Worsted with .5 ozs. of Aniline Yellow, ‘ then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in Crimson } vat No. 1, cold. i ANILINE BLUES. lOG No. 271. 10 Pieces, ORANGE AND BLUE. * First Dye the Worsted with 3 ozs. of Aniline Scarlet and 1 oz. of Aniline Yellow, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Navy Blue vat No. 8, hot. 1 HB 1 No. 272. 10 Pieces, COFFEE BROWN AND CRIMSON. First Dye the Worsted a good Coffee Brown, then bleach, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Crimson vat No. 1 hot. This is what is called a “Bronze Shot.” 1 1 j Hi 1 j . No. 273. 10 Pieces, YELLOW AND BLUE. First Dye the Worsted with 5 ozs. of Aniline Yellow, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Navy Blue vat No. 8, hot. j 1 I i I No. 274. 10 Pieces, GREEN AND ORANGE. First Dye the Worsted a good full Saxon Blue with 1 quart of Sulphate of Indigo, 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol and 10 lbs. of Glaubersalts. Then “ Sumac and Spirit, then Dye off in the Orange vat No. 6, at boiling point. i 107 FIGURED ORLEANS. No. 275. 10. F’eces, GREEN AND CRIMSON. First Dye the Worsted Green to shade, with 1 quart of Sulphate of Indigo, I 2 ozs. Picric Acid and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. Then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Saffranine Crimson vat No. 7 cold. No. 276. 10 /Vw.s BLUE AND CRIMSON. First Dye the Worsted a full Saxon Blue with 3 gills of Sulphate of Indigo and 1 pint Oil of Vitriol, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in all respects same as No. 275. No. 277. 10 Pfcm, SCARLET & BLUE BRONZE. First Dye the Worsted with 5 ozs. of Aniline Scarlet, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in Navy Blue vat No. 8, cold. The Dyeing of the Cotton turns the Worsted into a Bronze Brown. No. 278. 10 Pieccx, BLACK AND CRIMSON. First Dye the Worsted a common Black, then hleach the Cotton, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Aniline Crimson vat No. 1, hot. 1 FIGURED ORLEANS. 108 1 No. 279. 10 Pieces, BL.\CK AND BLUE BRONZE. First Dye the Worsted a common Black, tlien bleach the Cotton, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Navy Blue vat No. 8, hot. j No. 280. 10 Pieces, SCARLET AND BLACK. First Dye the Worsted a common Black, then bleach the Cotton, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Scarlet vat No. 2 hot. No. 281. 10 Pieces, BLACK AND ORANGE. First Dye the Worsted a common Black, then bleach the Cotton, then “Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Bismarck Brown vat No. 5, at boil. 1 1 1 j i No. 282. 10 Pieces, BLACK AND CRIMSON. First Dye the Worsted black, then bleach the Cotton, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Crimson vat No. 1, cold. ■ No 283. 10 Pieces, BLUE AND CRIMSON. 1 First Dye the Worsted with 1 lb. of Navy Aniline Blue, | then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Crimson vat No. 1, cold. 109 FIGURED ORLEANS. No. 284. 10 Pieces, DARK BLUE AND SCARLET. First Dye the Worsted with IJ lb. of Serge Blue, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Aniline : Scarlet vat No, 2, hot. 1 1 No. 285. 10 Pieces, BLUE AND PINK. First Dye the Worsted a dark Saxon Blue with 3 gills of Sulphate of Indigo and 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Saffranine Crimson vat No. 7, cold. j No. 28G. 10 Pieces, GREEN AND PINK. First Dye the Worsted Green to shade with Sulphate of Indigo, a little Turmeric and Oil of Vitriol, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Saffranine Crim- son vat No, 7, cold. -j No. 287. 10 Pieces, GEEEN AND ORANGE. First Dye the Worsted a good Green with 3 gills of Sulphate of Indigo, 5 ozs. of Picric Acid and 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol. Then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Orange vat No. 6, at boil. FIGURED ORLEANS. 110 j No. 288. 10 Pieces, BLUE AND GREEN. First Dye the Worsted a dark shade of Saxon Bine, then “Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in tlie Orange vat No. G, cold. j 1 1 1 : j I No. 289. 10 Pieces, BLUE AND PINK. First Dye the Worsted a light shade of Saxon Blue with Sulphate of Indigo and Oil of Vitriol, then Dye the Cotton pink with Extract of Safflower and 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol, cold. 1 j No. 290. 10 Pieces, LAVENDER AND SCARLET. First Dye the Worsted with 3 ozs. of Navy or Serge Blue and a little Oil of Vitriol, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Aniline Scarlet vat No. 2, hot. 1 j No. 291. 10 Pieces, GREEN AND SCARLET. First Dye the Worsted a dark Green with Sulphate of Indigo, Aniline Yellow, and Oil of Vitriol, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Aniline Scarlet vat No. 2, hot. FIGURED ORLEANS. • No. 292. 10 Pieces, YELLOW AND BLUE. First Dye the Worsted a good full Yellow with 5 ozs. of Aniline Yellow only, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Navy Blue vat No. 8, cold. ■ No. 293. 10 Pieces, DAKK PURPLE BRONZE. First Chrome the pieces with about 3 per cent, of Chrome, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off with 5 ozs. of Aniline Yellow and 20 lbs. of Logwood. Boil 20 minutes. 1 No. 294. 10 Pieces, ORANGE BLUE BRONZE. “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off with 4 ozs. of Navy Blue, 6 ozs. of Aniline Yellow and 1 oz. of Magenta. Boil 20 minutes. No. 295. 10 Pieces DARK BLUE BRONZE. First Dye the Worsted a good dark shade of Blue with Aniline Induline and a little Oil of Vitriol, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off with 5 ozs. of Navy Blue and a little Oil of Vitriol. ■ I FIGURED ORLEANS. 112 No. 296. ^ 10 Pieces, BROWN BRONZE. First Clirome, then “ Sumac, Iron, and Spirit,” then Dye off at boil with Magenta and Picric Acid. No. 297. 10 Pieces, RED BROWN BRONZE. First Chrome, then “ Sumac, Iron, and Spirit,” then Dye off with 25 lbs. of Logwood, 25 lbs. of Turmeric, 8 ozs. of Magenta, 2 ozs. of Alum and 8 ozs. of Blue Vitriol. Boil well. No. 298. 10 Pieces, DARK BROWN BRONZE. First Chrome, then “Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off with 80 lbs. of Logwood, 10 lbs. of Turmeric, 3 ozs. of Magenta, 5 ozs. of Blue Vitriol and 5 ozs. of Alum. Boil well. No. 299. 10 Pieces, PURPLE BRONZE. First Chrome, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off with 10 lbs. of Logwood, 10 ozs. of Aniline Purple, 1 lb. of Alum and 1 lb. of Blue Vitriol. . . — J ™ ..... 113 figurp:d Orleans. No. 800. 10 Pieces, DARK RED BRONZE. These pieces were prepared in the following manner : — They were prepared at boiling point with “ Sumac and Tin Crystals,” run 8 ends, then washed very well, and Dyed off with 1 20 lbs. of Logwood, | 3 ozs. of Magenta, ! 5 ozs. of Blue Vitriol and i 5 ozs. of Alum. Boiled well. ■1 No. 301. 10 Pieces, DARK OLIVE BRONZE. First Chrome, then “ Sumac, Iron, and Spirit,” then Dye otf with 20 lbs. of Logwood, 15 lbs. of Turmeric and ^ oz. of Magenta. Boil well. - 1 No. 302. 1 i' 10 Pieces, LIGHT OLIVE BRONZE. 1 ij “ Sumac and Iron,” then Chrome, then Dye off with 20 1 lbs. of Turmeric and 5 ozs. of Blue Vitriol at boil. m ! No. 303. 10 Pieces, RED SHADE OF LIGHT BRONZE. First Chrome, then “ Sumac and Iron,” then Dye off with 40 lbs. of Turmeric, 1 oz. of Magenta and 5 ozs. of Blue Vitriol, at boil. FIGURED ORLEANS. 114 No. 304. 10 Pieces, OKANGE BKONZE. First “ Sumac and Iron,” then Chrome^ then Dye off with 1 oz. of Magenta, 5 ozs. of Aniline Yellow and 10 lbs. of Turmeric, at boil. ■ No. 305. 10 Pieces, DARK GREEN OLIVE BRONZE. First Chrome, then “ Sumac and Iron,” then Dye off with 40 lbs. of Logwood and 10 ozs. of Aniline Yellow. Boil well. m No. 306. 10 Pieces, DARK OLIVE BRONZE. First Chrome, then “ Sumac and Iron,” then Dye off with 1 oz. of Magenta, 20 lbs. of Logwood and 10 ozs. of Aniline Yellow. Boil well. No. 307. 10 Pieces, BISMARCK BROWN BRONZE. First Dye the Worsted with Alum and Argol, Extract of Indigo, a little Cudbear and Turmeric, then “ Sumac, Iron and Spirit,” and then Dye off in the Bismarck Brown vat No. 5, at boil. - 11,3 FIGURED ORLEANS. No. 808. 10 Pieces, OLIVE & BROWN BRONZE. First Dye the Worsted a Dark Olive with Extract of Indigo, Oil of Vitriol, Glaubersalts, Turmeric and Cam- wood. Boil well, then “ Sumac, Iron, and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Bismarck Brown vat No. 5, at boil. No. 309. 10 Pieces, BLUE & SCARLET BRONZE. First Dye the Worsted a good dark shade of Navy Blue with 15 ozs. of Navy Blue, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Aniline Scarlet vat No. 2, hot. No. 310. 10 Pieces, LIGHT SHADE OF BLUE & SCARLET BRONZE. First Dye the Worsted with 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol, 10 lbs. of Glaubersalts and 1 pint of Sulphate of Indigo. Then “ Sumac, Iron, and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Bismarck Brown vat No. 5, at boil. No. 311. 10 Pieces, DARK BLUE & BROWN BRONZE. First Dye the Worsted a good dark shade of Blue with 1 5 ozs. of Navy Blue and 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Bismarck Brown vat No. 5, at boil. The Cotton is a darker Brown on account of the Blueness it has received from the Navy Blue in Dyeing the Worsted. FIGURED ORLEANS. 116 No 81 ‘2. 10 Pieces, OLIVE AND SCARLET BRONZE. First Dye the Worsted a middle .shade of Olive with 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol, 1 pint of Sulphate of Indigo and 10 lbs. of Camwood. Then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Scarlet vat No. 2, at boil. No. 3I3-. 10 Pieces, PURPLE AND CRIMSON BRONZE, First Dye the Worsted a light shade of Purple with 4 ozs. of Blue Aniline Purple, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye olf in the Crimson vat No. 7, cold. No. 314. 10 Pieces, FULL BRIGHT SHADE OF MAGENTA COLOUR. Dyed off at once with 1 lb. of Magenta Crystals, at boil. No. 815. 10 Pieces, FULL MAGENTA AND GREEN. First Dye the Worsted in the same liquor as No. 314, without adding anythmg, then bleach the Cotton with a little Chloride of Lime, then “ Sumac and Spii'it," then Dye off with 10 ozs. of Malachite Green, cold. 117 FIGURED ORLEANS. No. 316. 10 Pieces, GREEN AND ORANGE BRONZE. First Dye the Worsted Green with 5 ozs. of Malachite Green, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye the Cotton with 4 ozs. of Hullmine, cold. The Hullmine must be I dissolved in boiling water. No. 317. 10 Pieces, LIGHT GREEN AND LIGHT BROWN BRONZE. First Dye the Worsted with 2 ozs. of Malachite Green, then Dye ofl' in the Bismarck Brown vat No. 7, cold, without any preparation. No. 318. 10 Pieces, DARK SHADE OF GREEN AND BROWN BRONZE. First Dye the Worsted Green with 4 ozs. of Malachite Green, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Bismarck Brown vat No. 5, cold. No. 319. 10 Pieces, BLUE AND GREEN BRONZE. First Dye the Worsted M’ith 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol, 2 pints of Sulphate of Indigo and 10 lbs. of Glaubersalts. Then “ Sumac, Iron, and Spirit,” then D 3 ’e off in the Malachite Green vat No. 11, cold. FIGURED ORLEANS. 118 No. ago. 10 Pieces, SCARLET AND GREEN BRONZE. First Dj-e the Worsted with 1 lb. of Aniline Scarlet and and 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then Dye off in the Malachite Green vat, cold. No. 321. 10 Pieces, DARKER SHADE OF SCARLET AND GREEN BRONZE. First Dye the Worsted in all respects same as No. 320, then “ Sumac, Iron, and Spirit,” then Cotton Dj’c same as No. 320. No. 322. 10 Pieces, LAVENDER GRAY AND BRONZE. Dye off both the Cotton and the Worsted together with 2 ozs. of liullmine only, at boil. No. 323. 10 Pieces, MALACHITE GREEN. First Dye the Worsted a light shade of Green with 4 ozs. of Malachite Green, then “ Sumac and Spirit, ’'then run 6 ends in the Malachite Green vat No’. 11, cold. No. 324. 10 Pieces, MID SHADE OF GREEN. First Dye the Worsted a middle shade of Green with 6 ozs. of Malachite Green, then “ Sumac and Spirit,” then run 6 ends in the Green vat No. 11, cold. 119 FIGURED ORLEANS. No. 325. 10 Pieces, DARK SHADE OF GREEN. First “ Sumac, Iron and Spirit,” then Dye off at boil ■with G ozs. of Malachite Green. No. 326. 10 Pieces, DARKER GREEN. First Dye the Worsted a good shade of Saxon Blue with 10 lbs. of Glaubersalts, 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol and 1 pint of Sulphate of Indigo, Then “ Sumac, Iron and Spirit,” then run G ends in the Green vat No. 11, cold. - No. 327. - PREPARED CLOTH. This pattern shows the colour of the Cloth when it has been “Sumaced and Spirited” only. Ij 1 1 No. 328. 1 PREPARED CLOTH. This pattern shows the colour of the cloth when it has j been “ Sumaced and Ironed” only. |l j! No. 329. i j This pattern shows the colour of the cloth when it has 1 been “Sumaced, Ironed and Spirited.” No. 330. CLOTH IN THE GRAY. j This pattern shows the colour of the cloth in the Gray state, before it has been prepared at all. FIGUKED ORLEANS. 120 NITRATE OF COPPER PREPARATION. The following 20 Colours were prepared by a new process, which I will call the “ Nitrate of Copper” process, or vat. A Vat is made as follows ; to a cistern of cold water add 2 parts of Nitrate of Copper at 8“ T. and 1 part of Muriate of Zinc at 8“ T. The Nitrate of Copper should be made to stand at 120° T, and I then brought down to 8° T with cold water; so should the Muriate of Zinc. To make the Nitrate of Copper, add old or new Copper to strong Nitric Acid until it be made to stand at 120° T. To make the Muriate of Zinc, add old or new Zinc to Muriatic Acid until it stands at 120° T. Heat will have to be applied in making these 2 Dye Spirits, they are generally made in a Stoneware ' Jar on a hot sand bath. When a Bath or Vat has been made with these spirits it will keep for any length of time. A little more spirits of each sort should be added every time after the vat has been used, to keep it in good order. To prepare the Pieces, they should be run 6 ends in this vat, and then, without washing them, they must be run 6 ends through a Soda vat. The Soda vat is made by adding to a cistern of cold water, a quantity of common Soda to make the liquor Alkaline ; say about 8 ozs. to the gallon of water, or a little more. These vats prepare the Cotton. The reader will understand the term “prepare the cotton” in the following 20 receipts to mean, — “ to prepare ” in this way only, and not with “Sumac and Spirit” as in the usual way, as neither Sumac nor Tin Spirits is required in this mode of preparation. Cotton “prepared” in this way may be dj'ed almost any colour, but it will not stand the same amount of boiling in the Dyeing of it as Cotton prepared with “Sumac and Tin Spirit.” j 121 FIGURED ORLEANS. 1 1 - - -- 1 No. 3S1. 10 Piecefi, ALKALI BLUE. First Dye the Worsted a good shade of Alkali Blue, same as No. 190, then run 6 ends in the Nitrate of I Copper vat, and 6 ends in the Soda vat, then Dye the 1 Cotton in the Navy Blue vat No. 8, cold, ti 1 1 No. 332. ! 10 Pieces, BLUE AND CRIMSON. 1 First Dj'e the Woi’sted same shade of Blue as 323, then “prepare the Cotton,” and Dye off in the Crimson vat No. 1, cold. ■ No. 333. i 1 10 Pieces, BLUE AND ORANGE. First Dye the Worsted a good middle shade of Saxon { Blue with 10 lbs. Glaubersalts, ! 2 pints of Oil of Vitriol and 1 1 pint Sulphate of Indigo, 1 Then “prepare the Cotton,” and Dye off in the Bis- marck Brown vat No. 5, half-hot. i I 1 No. 334. 10 Pieces, SCARLET AND BLUE. First Dye the Worsted a good Scarlet with 14 lb. of “Aniline Scarlet” and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol, then “prepare the Cotton,” and run 6 ends in the Navy Blue vat No. 8, cold FIGURED ORLEANS. 122 No. 335. 10 Pieces, SCARLET. First Dye the Worsted a good Scarlet with IJ lb. of “Aniline Scarlet” and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol, then “ prepai'e the Cotton,” then run 6 ends in the Scarlet vat No. 2, cold. 1 ! 1 No. 330. 10 Pieces, BLACK AND GREEN. First Dye the Worsted Black with 1 lb. of Induline and 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol, then “ prepare the Cotton,” and run 6 ends in the Malachite Green vat No. 11, cold. 1 1 No. 337. j 1 10 Pieces, MALACHITE GREEN. First Dye the Worsted with 10 ozs. of Malachite Green powder, at boil, then “ prepare the Cotton,” then run G ends in the Malachite Green vat No. 11, cold. ■ No. 338. 10 Pieces, MALACHITE GREEN. First “ prepare the Cotton,” then Dye the Cotton in the Malachite Green vat, cold, then Dye off at boil with 12 ozs. of Malachite Green. 1 ! No. 330. 10 Pieces, MAGENTA COLOUR. First “prepare the Cotton,” then Dye off at boil with / 8 ozs. of Magenta Crystals. '' i — — 1 123 figukp:d Orleans. No. 340. 10 Pieces, BLUE. I First prepare the Cotton,'” then Dye off at boil with i 8 ozs. of Indigo Substitute or Aniline Indigo. No. 34L I i 10 Pieces, FINE VIOLET. I I First “in'cpare the Cotton,” then Dye off at boil with j I 4 ozs. of Aniline Indigo and 4 ozs. of Aniline Violet. No. 342. I 10 Pieces, FINE VIOLET. ii h First “prepare the Cotton,” then Dye off at boil Avith I G ozs. of Aniline Violet only. No. 343. 10 Pieces, GRAY. First “prepare tlie Cotton,” then Dye off at boil with 4 ozs. of Hulmine. No. 344. 10 Pieces, DARK GRAY. First “prepare the Cotton.” then Dye off with 4 ozs. of Hullmine and 1 oz. of Aniline Violet. Boil half an hour. No. 345. 10 Pieces, DRAB. First “prepare the Cotton,” wash well out of the Soda vat, then Dye off at boil with a few grains of Hullmine. I FIGURED ORLEANS. 124 Nt). 346. . 10 rieces, DRAB. First “ prepare the Cottou,” then Dye off at hoii with a few grains of Hullmine and 1 grain of Magenta. % No. 347. 10 Pieces, DRAB. ! First “ prepare the Cottou,” then Dye off at boil with a few grains of Hullmine, 1 grain of Magenta and 8 ozs. of Oatecu. No. 348. 10 Pieces, DRAB. First “ prepare the Cotton,” then Dye off with 6 lbs. of Alum, 1 Ih. of Red Argol, 5 ozs, of Cudbear and 2 lbs. of Catecu. Boil well. ■ No. 849. 10 Pieces, YELLOW. First “ prepare the Cotton,” then Dye off with 2 lbs. of Flavine and 1 pint of Y’cUow Spirits. Boil 10 minutes. No. 350. 10 Pieces, SAFFRANINE, First “ prepare the Cotton,” then Dye off at boil with 2 lbs. of Safi’rauine only. m >• :.y. •*> 125 SILK, COTTON, AND WOOL, OK SLUBBING. SILK, COTTON, & WOOL, OR SLUBBING. In the following thirty shades of colours the Cotton, Silk, and Wool, were Dyed off all together in the same hath. I have Dyed, them in this way purposely, to show the Dyer which colours can be Dyed on Silk, Cotton, and Wool together. Nos. 851-2-8. 100 lbs. SILK, COTTON, AND WOOL IN ALL. LIGHT MAGENTA. Prepare the Cotton in the usual way with “Sumac and Spirit” for this and the following colours. The Silk requires no preparation; nor the Wool, except where mentioned. This colour was Dyed in a clean bath with about 2 ozs. of Magenta Crystals at boil. Nos. 354-5-6. 100 lbs., MID SHADE OF MAGENTA. Dye off in a clean hath with about 4 ozs. of Magenta Crystals at boil. Nos. 357-8-9. 100 lbs., FULL SHADE OF MAGENTA. Dye off in a clean hath with about 6 ozs. of Magenta Crystals at boil. ss SILK, COTTON, AND WOOL, OR SLUBBING. 12G j Nos. 300-1-2. j 100 lbs., LIGHT LILAC. • • 1 Dye off iu a clean bath with about 2 ozs. of Aniline ! Violet II, at boil. ' ! , I' Mil; i ! Nos. 363-4-5. ' 100 lbs., MID SHADE OF LILAC. 1 ; Dye off in a clean bath with about 4 ozs. of Aniline Violet R, at boil. 1 i 1 1 1 ! Nos. 366-7-8. ■ 1 100 lbs., FULL SHADE OF LILAC. Dye off in a clean bath with about 6 ozs. of Aniline j Violet R, at boil. 1 i Nos. 369-70-71. 100 lbs., LIGHT GREEN. Dye off in a clean bath with about 2]ozs. of Malachite 1 Green, at boil. i ' Nos, 372-3-4. 1 100 lbs., MID SHADE OF GREEN. 1 Dve off iu a clean bath with about 4 ozs. of Malachite 1 Green, at boil. 3 127 SILK, COTTON, AND WOOL, OR SLUBBING. i Nos. 375-6.7. i ! 100 lbs., FULL SHADE OF GEEEN. Dye off in a clean bath with about 5 ozs. of Malachite ’ Green, at boil. tmmd Nos. 378-9-80. 100 lbs., SERGE BLUE. ! Dye off in a clean bath with about 4 ozs. of Aniline ! Navy Blue, at boil. Nos. 381-2-3. ' 100 lbs., SERGE BLUE. Dye off in a clean bath with about G ozs. of Aniline Navy Blue, at boil. Ml No. 884-5-6. 100 lbs., LIGHT ALKALI BLUE. , Dye off in a clean bath with Alkali Blue. For ^ instructions as to quantity and mode of Dyeing, j refer to No. 191. j I Nos. 387-8-9. 100 lbs., MID SHADE ALKALI BLUE. Dye in all respects as No. 862, but with a little more | Alkali Blue, see No. 191. I . . 1 1 SILK, COTTON, AND WOOL, OR SLUBBING. 128 Nos. 390- 1-2. 100 lbs., FULL SHADE OF ALKALI BLUE. Dye in all respects same as 362, but with more Alkali Blue, see No. 191. 1 1 HV 1 Nos. 393-4-5. I 100 lbs., LIGHT CEIMSON. i Dye off in a clean bath with about 11 lb. of Aniline Nos. 396-7-8. 100 lbs., DAEK CEIMSON. Dye off in aU respects same as 393, but with double the quantity of Aniline Crimson. Nos. 399-400-1 100 lbs., LIGHT PONCEAU. Dye off in a clean bath with about li lb. of Aniline Ponceau, at boil. s Nos. 402-3-4. 100 lbs., DAEK PONCEAU. Dye off in all respects same as No. 399, but with double quantity of Aniline Ponceau, at boil. m t ■ 129 SILK, COTTON, AND WOOL, OR SLUBBING. Nos. 405-6-7. 100 lbs., EED VIOLET. Dye off in a clean bath with about 12 ozs. of Aniline Crystals B, at boil. Nos. 408-9-10. 1 1 100 lbs., BLUE VIOLET. Dye off in a clean bath with about 12 ozs. of Aniline Violet Crystals BBB, at boil. Nos. 411-12-13. 100 lbs., LIGHT GREEN. Dye off in a clean bath with about 11 lb. of Acid Green Crystals, at boil. i j; 1 i Nos. 414-15-16. 100 lbs. DARK SHADE OP GREEN. Dye off in a clean bath with about 1:J^ lbs. of Hel- **‘^etian Green I, at boil. flfll : Nos. 417-18-19. 100 lbs., LIGHT CLARET. First prepare the Wool with 1^ lbs. of Bichromate of Potash, boil 40 minutes in a clean bath, then wash, then Dye off with about 14 lb. of Magenta and i lb. of Logwood. Boil 20 minutes. mbJ I SILK, COTTON, AND WOOL, OR SLUBBINCx. 130 Nos. 420-1-2. 100 lbs., DARK CLARET. First prepare tlie Wool same as last with Chrome, then Dye off with about ^ lb. of Magenta and 10 ozs. of Logwood. Boil 20 minutes. 1 1 1 iiltoiilH ' ! Nos. 423-4-5. 100 lbs., PURPLE. Prepare the Wool as No. 417, then Dye off with ' about i lb. of Violet R and i lb. of Logwood. Boil 20 minutes. S Nos. 42G-7-8. 100 lbs., PURPLE. Prepare the Wool as No. 417, then Dye off with about ^ lb. of Violet R and 1 lb. of Logwood. Boil 20 minutes. Nos. 429-30-31. lOQ lbs., LIGHT INDULINE BLUE. Dye off in a clean bath with about 1^ lb. of Induline and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol. Boil 20 minutes. Nos. 432-3-4. 100 lbs., DARK INDULINE BLUE. ' Dye off in all respects as 429, but with double the quantity of Induline. m 1, — ^ ^ 131 SILK, COTTON, AND WOOL, OR SLUBBING. Nos. 435-G-7. 100 lbs., MID BROWN. 1 Prepare the Wool same as No. 417, then Dye off with about t lb. of Aniline Orange, 1 lb. of Magenta and 2l lbs. of Logwood. Boil 20 miniites. 1 10 Nos. 438-9-40. 100 lbs., DARK BROWN. 1 Prepare same as last, then Dye off with about [ 1 lb. of Aniline Orange, lb. of Magenta and 41 lbs. of Logwood. Boil 20 minutes. Cotton prepared with Sumae and Spirit will 1 not take the following 30 colours along with the 1 Silk and Wool as in case of the last 30, and when 1 these colours are required on the cotton, they will have to be dyed separately and with some other preparation. 1 j i 1 ' Nos, 441-2. 1 i 100 lbs., RED CLARET. t . i Dye off in a clean bath with about 2 lbs. of Aniline Claret Red B. and 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol at boil. 1 i 1 Nos. 443-4. 100 lbs., DARK RED CLARET. Dye off in all respects same as No. 441-2; but add j double quantity of AniUnc Claret Red E | ■ ■ ■ ; - - - — — SILK, COTTO\, ANT> WOOL, OK SLUBBING. U52 Nos. 446-6. 100 lbs., LIGHT ORANGE. Dye off iu a clean batli with al)ont 8 ozs. of Aniline Orange and 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol, at boil. m Nos. 447-8. ' 100 lbs., DARK ORANGE. Dye off same as last, but add double quantity of Aniline Orange. Nos. 449-60. 100 lbs., ROSE COLOUR. Dye off in a clean bath with about 6 ozs. of Eosiue and 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol, at boil. ♦ Nos. 451-2. 100 lbs., FULL ROSE COLOUR. Dye off in a clean bath with about l.t lb. of Eosiue, at boil. t ! S" Nos. 453-4. 100 lbs., EOSINE ORANGE. Dye off in a clean bath with about 1^ lb. Eosiue | and 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol, at boil. 1 Nos. 455-6. 100 lbs., EOSINE SCARLET. i Dye off iu a clean bath with about 4 lbs. of Eosiue , and 1 quart of Acetic Acid, at boil. j 133 SILK, COTTON, AND WOOL, OK SLUBBING. Nos. 457-8. 100 lbs., ANILINE SCAELET. ofl’ iu a clean bath with about 3.1 lbs. of Aniline Scarlet and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol, at boil. Nos. 459-60. 100 lbs., ANILINE SCARLET. Dye otf in a clean bath with about 4^ lbs. of Aniline Scarlet and 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol, at boil. Nos. 461-2. 100 lbs., ANILINE YELLOW. Dye off in a clean bath with about 2 lb. of Aniline Yellow at boil. Nos. 463-4. 100 lbs., ANILINE YELLOW. Dye off in all respects same as Nos. 461-2; but add double quantity of Aniline Yellow. Nos. 465-6. 100 lbs., EOSINE ROSE COLOUR. ^ Dye off in a clean bath with about 2^ lbs. of Eosine B, at boil. Nos. 467-8. 100 lbs., DARK EOSINE ROSE. Dye off iu all respects same as 465-6, with 2^ lbs. of Eosine B, and add 1 quart Acetic Acid, at boil. SILK, COTTOX, AND WOOL, OK SLUBBIXG. j| Nos. 409-70. 100 lbs., PHLOXINE CBIMSON. Ejc off in a clean bath with about 3 lbs. of Aniline Phloxine B.B., and 1 quart of Acetic Acid, at boil. 1 SSplf Nos. 471-2. 100 lbs., PHLOXINE CRIMSON. Dye off in a clean bath with about 5 lbs. of Aniline Phloxine B.B., and 1 quart of Acetic Acid, at boil. ! i Nos. 473-4. I 100 lbs., EOSINE CRIMSON. Dye off in a clean bath with about 2.} lbs. of Eosine B., and 1 quart of Acetic Acid, at boil. m Nos. 475-6. 100 lbs., DARK EOSINE CRIMSON. ' I Dye off in a clean bath with about 3^ lbs. of Eosine j B., and 1 quart of Acetic Acid, at boil. 1 j Nos. 477-8. 1; 100 lbs., FULL EOSINE ORANGE. 1 Dye off in a clean bath with about 21 lbs. of Eosine J., and 1 quart of Acetic Acid, at boil. Nos. 479-80. 100 lbs., EOSINE SALMON COLOUR. Dye off in a clean bath with about 21 lbs. of Eosine J., and 1 quart of Acetic Acid, at boil. i^njHnmi^ii i;io SILK, COTTON, AND WOOL, OR SLUBBING. Nos. 481-2. 100 lbs., DARK EOSINE SALMON COLOUR. Dye oil in all respects same as Nos. 479-80 ; but acid double c]uantity of Eosine J, at boil. Nos. 483-4. 100 lbs., BENGALE ROSE. Dye off in a clean bath with about 5 lbs. of Rose Bengale and 1 t]uart of Acetic Acid, at boil. Nos. 485-0. 100 lbs., CYANOSINE ROSE. Dye off’ ill a clean bath with about 5 lbs. of Cyano- sino and 1 quart of Acetic Acid, at boil. Nos. 487-8. 100 lbs., ANILINE ORANGE. Dye olT in a clean bath with about 2L lbs. of Aniline Orange C., and 1 quart of Acetic Acid, at boil. Nos. 489-90. 100 lbs., LIGHT OLIVE BRONZE. I'irst prepare the Wool with It lb. of Bichromate of , Liicji wash, then D}’o off' with about 1 lb. of Ai e Yellow and 2 lbs. of Logwood. Boil 20 minutes. I SILK, COTTON, AND WOOL, OK SLUBIilNG. 13G ' Nos. 191-2. I I 100 lbs., GEEEN OLIVE BRONZE. Prepare the wool same as No. 189, aud dye off in a clean bath with about 1 lb. of Aniline Yellow and j 5 lbs. of Logwood. Boil 20 minutes. Nos. 193-1. 100 lbs., LIGHT BROWN OLIVE BRONZE. Prepare the wool same as No. 189, then dye off in a clean bath with about 1 lb. of Aniline Orange and 1 lbs. of Logwood. Boil 20 minutes. Nos. 195-G. 100 lbs., DARK BROWN OLIVE BRONZE. First prepare the wool same as No. 489, then dye off in a clean vessel with about 1 lb. of Aniline Orange and 8 lbs. of Logwood. Boil 20 minutes. Nos. 197-8. 100 lbs., DARK OLIVE BRONZE. Dye off' with about 2 lbs. of Extract of Indigo and 10 lbs. of Glaubersalts, li lb. of Aniline Orange and 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol. Boil 20 minutes. 137 SILK, COTTON, AND WOOL, OK SLUBBING. No. 499. 100 lbs., GKEEN. Dye off in a clean bath with 8 pints of Sulphate of Indigo, 4 quarts of Fustic Liquor, 5 lbs. of Brown Tartar and 10 lbs. of Alum. Boil 40 minutes. No. 500. 100 lbs., DABK GREEN. Dye off in a clean bath with 2 quarts of Sulphate of Indigo, 5 f^uarts of Fustic Liquor, 5 lbs. of Brown Tartar and 10 lbs. of Alum. Boil 40 minutes. m From the foregoing receipts, all sorts of Wool, Woollen Cloths, Woollen Yarns, Worsted Y’^arns, &c., may he dyed as well as Slnbbingr I think I have now given as great a variety of Colours with Dyed Patterns as any one can desire, or even require for dyeing any given Colour on any given Fabric : for what applies to those I have given, may be applied to any other sort of Fabric, whether it be a Plain or a Mixed one. Union and other Cloths made of Wool and Cotton such as Felts, &c., may be dyed in the same way as those Figured Orleans which I have dyed in so great a variety of Two Colours and Bronzes ; but as some of my Subscribers may not be acquainted with the dyeing of Cotton iu the Hank, Silk in the Skein, &c., I will give -receipts for them from my Dyer’s Instructor, also receipts for Padding and Silk Printing, also for the Dyeing of Damasks in single and two colours, also for Dyeing Camlets and Bastings. The Eeceipts for all of them may be relied on as genuine and useful, having myself dyed thou- sands of Pieces from them. With these additional receipts, I think every requirement will bo met ; but if not, I will furnish any Subscriber with anj' particular colour ho may require on any given fabric. D. S. COTTOX DYEING. 138 COTTON DYEING. No. 501. 20 lbs., BUFF. After being boiled and properly wet, run through a clear Lime Liquor, then through a weak Copperas Liquor, both cold liquor; repeat in each Liquor until the shade is full enough. Another mode of dyeing Buff is : — No. 502. 1 20 lbs., BUFF. I Run the Cotton through Nitrate of Iron at about 4° Twaddel, then | through a weak Ammonia Liquor in another tub ; repeat in each until the shade is full enough. ^ Both these are firm Buff colours. i No. 503. 1 20 lbs., BUFF, OR NANKIN. | Shave 4 lbs. of Spanish Annotta into 30 gallons of water, to which I add 2 lbs. of Pearl Ash : boil it well up, let it settle, then drain off i the clear Liquor ; run the Cotton in this Liquor until you get the shade required. j I ^ All the various shades of light Buffs, Nankin colours, and Straw I ' colours as well, may be dyed from Annotta by adding little enough of it for the shade. The fine Straw colours which have a yellow tinge j have bleached bottoms, that is, they are first bleached and then dyed j in the following manner : — I No. 504. 20 lb., STRAW COLOUR. After being bleached, boil or scald as may be convenient 10 lbs. of Fustic in 10 gallons of water wuth a few lbs. of Alum, add clear Liquor according to shade in a tub of cold water. If fuller shades are wanted, add a little Alum Liquor. The most lively colours of this class are dyed after this manner for two-coloured Damasks, and other goods that are made up with Silk weft. 139 COTTON inEING. No. 505. 20 lbs., FLESH COLOUR. To a tub of cold water add 2 gallons of spent Annotta and 1 gallon of Turmeric Liquor ; the Turmeric must be boiled up with a little Alum about 4 ozs. to the gallon of water. A great variety of shades of this colour may be dyed by adding more of the one and less of the other of the two ingredients, Annotta and Turmeric. No. 500. 20 lbs., SAFFLOWER PINK. Squeeze the Liquor from 4 lbs. of Safflower into a tub ; give 10 turns in cold water. If the shade be too blue, add about 1 noggin of Oil of Vitriol and give it a few turns more. Nearly the same shade may be dyed upon bleached cotton in the following manner: — First steep it in 4 lbs. of Sumac in a tub, after which it must be spirited in a tub of cold water with either Muriate or Nitra-Muriate of Tin. The Liquor must stand at 2° Tw'addel. Then add to another tub of cold water 5 lbs. of spent Peachwood. To spend the Peach- wood, let it boil a few minutes, or be well scalded. No. 507. 20 lbs., LIGHT PINK. Tills shade is dyed in the same manner as No. 500, with the excep- tion of having less Sumac and Peachwood ; of Sumac 2 lbs. instead of 4 lbs., and of Peachwood 2^ lbs. instead of 5 lbs. The Safflower shades of Pink can be obtained from Magenta. No. 508. 20 lbs., SCARLET. It must be first steeped in 4 lbs. of Sumac, then spirited with Muriate of Tin at 2” Twaddel. then dyed with 2 lbs. of Peachwood and 3 lbs. of Bark previously spent ; let the Liquor be lukewarm. Give 10 turns and wash oil’ for the stove. If a Yellow shade of Scarlet is required add more Bark : If a Bluer shade less Bark ; If a lighter shade of Scarlet add less of both Peachwood and Bark ; and if a darker shade of Scarlet is required add more of both Peachwood and Bark. Since the introduction of Aniline Colours, Scarlet is often Dyed with them instead of Peachwood, as my receipts shew. COTTON PVEING. 140 No. 509. 20 lbs., LIGHT CINNAMON BROWN. Boil up 2 lbs. of Yellow Catechu witli 2 gallons of w'ater, add to it 4 ozs. of Blue Vitriol, and let it boil twenty minutes. In another vessel dissolve 8 ozs. of Chrome and keep it at the boiling heat ; run the Cotton in the Catechu first, give 8 turns, wring out, enter the Chrome tub, give 8 turns more, wring out, and wash off for the stove. No. 610. 20 lbs., DARKER SHADE OP LIGHT BROWN. This shade is dyed the same as No. 509, with the exception of having 2 lbs. of Black Catechu instead of 2 lbs. of YelloAV. When the shade is not Yellow enough, add to the Catechu a I little Fustic or Turmeric. Any shade of Cinnamon Brown may be dyed by varying the Catechu and Turmeric, giving more of the one and less of the other according to the shade required. I No. 611. j 20 lbs., DARK SHADES OF BROWN. I These shades must be first steeped in Sumac, then saddened with a little Copperas Liquor in another tub, add a little Urine amongst it, ' and then dye in all respects the same as the other two Browns. No. 512. 20 lbs., CHROME YELLOW. Dissolve 8 ozs. of White Sugar of Lead in one tub, and 8 ozs. of j Chrome in another ; enter tire tub with the Sugar of Lead first, cold, I give five turns, then enter the Chrome and give five turns, then ring ' out ; enter the other tub again, give five turns more and then wash off : for the stove. No. 513. 20 lbs., DARKER SHADE OF CHROMED YELLOW. j Dissolve 8 ozs. of Brown Sugar of Lead and 8 ozs. of Chrome, each | in a separate tub ; enter the Sugar of Lead first, give 6 ends, then | enter the Chrome, give 6 turns in it ; repeat three times in the Sugar ; of Lead tub, and twice in the Chrome ; wash off out of the Sugar of Lead tub for the stove. ' 141 COTTON DYEING. No. 514. ! 20 lbs., FULL CHROxME ORANGE. First make up a tub of cold Avater, to which add 4 Pailfuls of Lime Ley or clear Lime Water, enter the Cotton and turn four rounds ; dissolve 4 lbs. of Brown Sugar of Lead in 6 quarts of water ; in an- other tub of cold water add 2 quarts of this solution, enter the cotton, give three turns, squeeze out. Enter into another tub of clear lime water, give three turns in this, and in each of the two last tubs repeat three times, adding to the first tub 1 quart of the solution, and to the other fresh Lime Liquor each time before you enter. Then dissolve 2 lbs. of Chrome in 4 quai’ts of Avater, make up a tub at 1 about 20»f. and add 2 quarts of the Chrome Liquor ; enter the Cotton into this, give three turns and ring it out ; then enter the Sugar of Lead tub, and add 1 quart more of the solution that is left, repeat three times, and add 1 quart of the solution each time, and finish out of the Chrome. In this state it will appear very uneven as the atmosphere affects it very much, but it will become even in the raising of it, Avhicli is done as follows : — Into a pan or vessel of any sort with an open top, add 7 pailfuls of clear Lime Water, bring it just up to the spring and scum it well, do not let it boil, after scumming, cool down a little, enter the cotton and give 5 turns. Be careful not to add too much Lime water or it will destroy the beauty of the colour. This colour, hke some others, will feel rather rough, and therefore mut be run through a little softening, which is made as follows : — dissolve 8 ozs. of Pearlash or Soda in 1 gallon of warm Water, to which add 1 pint of Fish Oil, mix it well together and give it a little of it in a tub of warm Water. No. 515. 20 lbs., FAST DRAB. Boil up 6 lbs. of Mahogany Sawdust. Draw the clear Liquor into a tub and give 5 turns. Raise in the same Liquor Avith 1 gill of Nitrate of Iron. The Drabs dyed in this way are very fast, and a great variety of shades may be dyed by adding more or less of the wood according to shade. No. 516. 20 lbs., FAST BLUE. To a Tub of cold water add 1 lb. of Copperas dissolved and f of a Noggin of Muriatic Acid. Give 5 turns and ring out. To another Tub of cold water add 8 ozs. of dissolved Prussiate. Give 5 turns and take up. Add about 1 Noggin of Oil of Vitriol. Give 5 turns more and wash off for the stove. COTTON DYEING. 142 l| No. 517. 20 lbs., LAVENDER. To a tub of cold water add 2 lbs. of Logwood previously scalded and use only the clear Liquor. Add to it 1 lb. of Alum. Enter and give G or 8 turns. Lift up j and add 8 ozs. of Sweet Extract of Indigo and 2 lbs. more Alum, i Give 6 turns, and if a redder shade is i*equired, add more Logwood ! Liquor, and if bluer, more Extract. | No. 518. 20 lbs., LILAC. II To a Tub of cold water add 3 lbs. of Logwood, I lb, of Alum, or a !' little Red Liquor which is preferable in this class of colours, give G i or 8 turns. Lighter or darker shades may be dyed by adding more ^ or less Logwood. | No. 519. i 20 lbs., SILVER DRAB. | I To a tub of cold water add about 4 ozs. of Logwood and 1 quart of clear Lime Water ; give about 8 turns, and wash off for the stove. No. 520. 20 lbs., GOOD LIGHT DRAB. To a tub of cold water add ^ an oz. of Logwood and 1 lb. of Fustic ; 1 give 10 turns, then lift up, add 8 ozs. of Blue Vitriol, give 8 turns j more, then wash off for the stove. | No. 521. 20 lb., FULLER SHADE OF No. 20. In all respects dye the same, but add double the quantity of both ' Fustic and Logwood. ■ No. 522. 20 lbs., LIGHT OLIVE. To a tub of cold water add 5 lbs. of Fustic, previously scalded, and 1.} lb. of Logwood ; give 10 turns, then lift up, and raise by adding 8 ozs. of Blue Vitriol ; give 10 turns more and wash off for the stove. 148 COTTON DYEING. No. 523. 20 lbs., DARKER OLIVE. To a tub of cold water add 4 lbs. of Sumac ; steep in this for an hour. Sadden in another tub of cold water with 2 lbs. of dissolved Copperas, give 8 turns, wring out, enter another tub of warm water with i a jiiiilful of Urine. Then dye in another tub with 6 lbs. of Fustic and raise in the same liquor with 1 lb, of Blue Vitriol. No. 524. 20 lbs., DARK OLIVE. Dark shades of Olive are dyed same as No. 523, but adding with the Fustic a little Logwood, according to the shade of darkness, and wdien not Yellow enough, add a little more Fustic Liquor, or Turmeric Liquor which is preferable for dark colours. No. 525. 20 lbs., FULL YELLOW DRAB. To a tub of warm water add 8 oza. of Turmeric, 4 ozs. of Logwood and 8 lbs of Fustic ; raise in the same Liquor with 2j lbs. of Alum. Give 10 turns before, and 10 turns after saddening, wash off for the stove. No. 526. 20 lbs., LIGHT BUFF. To a tub of cold water add a little Nitrate of Iron ; give 10 turns, lilt up and raise w'ith a little Lime water and a little Botash in the same Liquor ; give a few turns more and wash off. No. 527. 20 lbs., LIGHT BLUE. Run through the Copperas Vat one End. How to dye the same shade with Extract : — To a tub of cold water add 10 ozs. of Sweet Extract of Indigo and 2 lbs. of Alum, Various shades of Light Blue may be dyed with Extract by adding more or less according to shade required. Give 10 turns, and then dry off. COTTON DYEING. 1 4 1 No. 528. 20 lbs., LIGHT EXTEACT GREEN. To a tub of water at about 100° add 8 ozs. of Turmeric, previously scalded, give 10 turns, lilt up and add 4 lbs. of Alum and 1 lb. of Extract, enter again and give 10 turns more, then wash off for the | stove. i Various shades of Green may be dyed after this manner by ' adding Extract according to shade. The Extract must be well , dissolved before it is used. | Greens of this dye are not so permanent as those with a Copperas vat Blue bottom. No. 529. 20 lbs., MIDDLE SHADE OF GREEN. First run the Cotton through the Copperas Vat, and get a moderate shade of Blue, after which wash it well. To another Tub add 15 lbs. of scalded Fustic, enter the Cotton and give 10 turns, lift up, add 4 lbs. of Alum and give 10 turns more. If the shade is required bluer, add Extract in the same Liquor. No. 530. 20 lbs., DARK SHADE OF GREEN. Dark shades of Green must have a darker Blue bottom, and arc dyed in all respects the same as No. 529. No. 531. 20 lbs., CHROMED AND FAST GREENS. Blue according to the shade required in the Copperas vat for the light shade of Greens. To a tub of cold water add 1 lb. of Sugar of Lead, enter the Cotton and give 5 ends ; to another tub of hot water add 1 lb. of dissolved Chrome, give 6 turns, wring out, repeat twice, and finish off in the Sugar of Lead, and then wash off for the stove. Dark Chromed Greens are dyed darker in the Copperas vat first, and have about one half more Chrome, and are dyed m all respects the same as light greens. 145 COTTON DYEING. No. 532. 20 lbs., LIGHT CATECHU BEOWN. Spend 3 lbs. of Catechu with 3 ozs. of Blue Vitriol ; put this into a tub of warm water, enter the Cotton, give eight turns, wring out, and enter another tub of hot water with 8 ozs. of Chrome at the boiling point ; give 0 ends and then wash off for the stove. No. 533. j 20 lbs., DAEK CATECHU BROWN. | To a tub of hot water add 4 lbs. of Catechu, give 6 turns ; to another | tub of hot water add 8 ozs. of Chrome, enter, give 5 turns, wash out, and repeat once more in each tub, and then wash off for the stove. ! No. 534. 20 lbs., DAEK CATECHU BEOWN. Spend 8 lbs. of Catechu with 8 ozs. of Blue Vitriol, enter tire Cotton, and for convenience let it stay in all night after giving it a few turns. Then to another Tub of hot water add 1 lb. of Chrome, enter and give a few turns, wash out of the chrome, and repeat twice or three times. No. 535. 20 lbs., FULL DARK CATECHU BEOWN. A darker class of colours may be dyed by using one half of Yellow Catechu and one half of the Black Catechu, and for very Red shades use all Black Catechu. If very dark shades are required, they must be first Sumaccd j and Saddened, and then dyed in the same way. , ! No. 536. ; 20 lbs., FULL YELLOW SCARLET. I ' Scald 4 lbs. of Sumac and add it to a Tub of cold water, and steep the ! I Cotton in it for a few hours. Make up another Tub of cold water j 1 ' and add Nitro-Muriate of Tin until it stands at 2“ Twaddel, cuter the ! ' Cotton into this and give about 10 turns. To another Tub, add 4 ! lbs. of Peachwood and 1 lb. of Turmeric, both previously spent, enter j ; the Cotton, give 10 turns, and raise in the same Liquor with 2 lbs. ' of Alum ; let the Liquor be at about 100° F. I I ! 1 1 1 COTTON DYEING. 146 No. 537. 20 lbs., BA.RWOOD RED. To a Tub of cold water add 5 lbs. of Sumac, give a few turns and steep in it all night. In another Tub of cold water add Spirits until it stands at 3“ Twaddel, give 8 turns, wash in cold water, and warm also. Then in a Copper or Block Tin Vessel add 20 lbs. of Barwood, boil up 15 minutes before the Cotton is put in, then cool down a little and enter the Cotton, bring it up to a spring boil and turn it on until it comes up to the shade, say about an hour. No. 538. 20 lbs., IMITATION OF TURKEY RED. 1 This colour is dyed the same as Barwood Red, except when it has j boiled about an hour, it is taken out of the vessel, to which is added I 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol, then boiled a short time longer. The Oil will j give it a much bluer appearance, and will very much imitate the Turkey Red. Lighter or darker shades may be dyed by adding more or less of the Barwood, I J No. 539. I VARIOUS SHADES OF SILVER DRAB. A good Silver Drab of a very light colour may be dyed by first giving I a few turns in a little Gall Liquor, then lift up and add a little Nitrate j of Iron and give a few turns more, \ A few Valonias will produce nearly the same effect, but not quite I so fine a shade. The Valonias must be boiled with a little water to I get the strength out of them. j A great variety of Blue Drabs can be dyed by first Sumacing the ; Cotton, then in another tub add a little Nitrate of Iron or Copperas [ Liquor, and give a few turns. By adding more Iron or Copperas Liquor the shades may be dyed up to dark Slate colour, and by adding a little Ammonia a class of Redder shades may be dyed, and Yellower by adding a little Fustic. 147 COTTO?f DYEING No. 540. VARIOUS SHADES OF FAWN DRABS. A great variety of Favn Drabs may be dyed by adding to a tub of cold water a little Catechu, then a little more according to shades required ; and when flatter shades are wanted, add a little Copperas Liquor which will sadden it. Almost any variety of shade may be I dyed after this manner. Then another class of heavier shades must have a little Sumac with the Catechu, and be saddened with a little Nitrate of Iron or Copperas Liquor. To a tub of cold water add 5 lbs. of Sumac, give a few turns and steep it all night in the Sumac ; then to another Tub of cold water add a few pails of Lime water, wring out, to another Tub of cold water add 2 lbs. of dissolved Copperas, and a pailful of the old Sumac Liquor, enter and give 6 turns, then wring out, enter the Lime Tub again and give 2 pails more Lime Liquor, then scald 6 lbs. of Log- wood and 1 lb. of Fustic, add this to another Tub of water, enter the Cotton and give 10 turns, lift up, and sadden with a little Copperas in the same Liquor. No. 542. 20 lbs., A GOOD BLACK TO STAND MILLING AND SCOURING. Steep all night with 6 lbs. of Sumac, pass through Lime Liquor and sadden with Copperas as before, repeat in each of the last 2 Tubs, adding more Lime and Coppei'as to each, pass through a decoction of Logwood and wash off. Both the last blacks must be softened with a little Oil and Soda Ash before they are dried. This Black is first dyed in the Copperas vat, to give it a good Blue | bottom, and then dyed in all respects same as No. 542. [' No. 541. 20 lbs., GOOD BLACK. No. 543. FAST BLACK. COTTON DYEING. 148 No. 544. 20 lbs., FAST PUKPLE. This colour must have a Blue bottom iu the Copperas vat, and afterwards it must have a few turns in a Tub of cold water with a little Muriate of Tin at 2° Twaddel. To another Tub of water add 4 or 5 lbs. of Logwood previously spent, enter the Cotton and give 8 turns. This is a good purple. Lighter or darker shades may be dyed by adding more or less I Logwood according to shade. Brighter shades are now dyed with the Aniline Purple dyes, many of which may be seen in this work. No. 545. 20 lbs., FAST LAVENDER. Lavender shades are dyed the same as No. 544, but are dyed a much lighter blue in the vat, and with less Logwood in the filling up. These are decidedly the best shades of Lavender that can be dyed, especially for warps which have to be made up with white weft ; they will stand any reasonable quantity of Acid, and are much better for the Piece Dyer. No. 546. 20 lbs., SKY BLUR. The various shades of light Blues are dyed in the Copperas vat ; they can be varied almost to any shade by passing them oftener through. These shades are much better than the Cliinese Blues which will not stand passing through warm water without washing off. No. 547. 20 lbs., BARK YELLOW. Boil 10 lbs., of Bark in a bag in a vessel of water for 15 minutes ; take out the bag and add to the liquor 1 quart of Muriate of Tin, cool down, enter the cotton, and give it 6 turns sharply; if not full enough take it out and add 1 gill more Muriate of Tin. COTTON DYEING. 149 No. 548. OTHER YELLOWS. Perhaps the Turmeric Yellow is the cheapest of any, but it is not so permanent as that dyed with Bark or Fustic, and nothing like the Chrome Yellow ; though almost any shade of Yellow may be dyed upon Cotton with it, by first boiling it in a little water and a very small quantity of Sulphuric Acid or a little Alum, and using only the clear liquor ; 2 or 3 lbs. will dye a fair shade of Yellow upon 20 lbs. of Cotton. No. 549. 20 lbs., PEACHWOOD RED. Scald 5 lbs. of Sumac, and steep the Cotton in it all night. To a tub of cold water add about 1 quart of Spirits, give 10 turns in this, and wash ; then scald 10 lbs. of Peachwood, in which Liquor work the Cotton until you get the shade required. If a lighter shade is wanted add less Peachwood. No. 550. CRIMSONS AND PINKS. Various Shades of Crimsons and Pinks may be Dyed in the following manner : First Spirit at about 6° Twaddel, and then enter the Peachwood quantity according to shade required, whether Crimson or Pink. This is the quickest way they can be dyed, except by adding both the Spirits and the Wood together, which will answer equally as well. After dyeing a good Crimson a variety of Pinks may be dyed in the same Liquor, by giving about 6 or 8 turns in it. No. 551. 20 lbs., CLARETS. For a full Claret, steep the Cotton in 5 lbs. of Sumac all night, then Spirit in another tub at about 2° Twaddel : then wash, scald 3 or 4 lbs. of Logwood, add this to a tub of warm water, give 8 turns, lift up, throw out the old Liquor, and add as much more Logwood ; give 8 ends more and raise in the same Liquor with a little Alum. Lighter shades are dyed in the same manner, but must have less Wood. When Redder shades are required, add a little Peachwood and Logwood. COTTON DVKINO. ItH) j No. 5r>2, 20 lbs., RUBY. Sumac as for Claret, and Spirit the same, then boil up 6 lbs. of Sapan* wood in a few gallons of water ; strain off the Liquor, and put into a tub of warm water, give 10 turns and raise with a little Alum. No. 553. 20 lbs., PLUM COLOUR. Prepare with Sumac and Spirit as 251, then boil up 5 lbs. of Log- wood and 2 lbs. of Peachwood, or it may be scaltled and strained into a tub to render the liquor clear; give 10 ends and raise with a little Alum in the same liquor ; give 6 ends, and wash off. No. 554. 20 lbs., MAROON. This colour may be dyed in the same manner as No. 552, using Peachwood instead of Sapanwood. The be.st mode of dyeing it is by first Sumacing with 5 lbs. of Sumac, then saddening with 2 lbs. of Copperas or a little Nitrate of I Iron, which is preferable ; then wash and enter a tub with 6 lbs. of Peachwood, give 10 turns, lift up and add 1 pint of Spirits to the same Liquor to raise with ; or raise in another tub with Spirits ; by adding a little more Spirits the brightest and fullest Crimson may be dyed, and will stand wearing much better than some other modes of dyeing the same colour. No. 555. 20 lbs., BLUE PURPLE. In a tub of cold water add 5 lbs. of Sumac, steep in this all night if convenient ; then in another tub. Spirit with 1 pint of Spirits, wash out of the Spirit tub ; then enter another tub with 4 or 5 lbs. of Logwood, give 8 turns, lift up, add 8 ozs. of Tin Crystals, give 8 turns more and wash off. No. 55G. 20 lbs., FULL PURPLE. | First Sumac, then sadden with Copperas, wash out of the Copperas, I then scald 5 lbs. of Logwood in another tub, and give 10 turns; it will now be a good black, but must be raised with a pint of Spirits in | the same tub. t i Purple warps dyed on this principle are very good and permanent. 151 COTTON DYEING. No. 557. 20 lbs., SAXON BLUE. Tills colour may be dyed in the Copperas vat, but not so bright as with Prussiate of Potash. To dye with Prussiate it must be first ironed or turned in a tub of cold water with about 1 quart of Nitrate of Iron until it becomes a light buff, it must then pass through weak Ammonia in another tub, then wash it; dissolve about 1 lb. of Prussiate and add it to another tub of cold water, give about 10 turns, then lift up, and add 1 Noggin of Oil of Vitriol, enter again, and give 10 turns and wash off for the Stove. For darker shades add more Prussiate. No. 558. 20 lbs., FLAT EOYAL BLUE. This colour is first dyed in the Copperas vat, and then Dyed in the same way as No. 557. By having a vat Blue bottom it takes less Prussiate. ' No. 559. I 20 lbs., BRIGHT ROYAL BLUE. I In the first tub make up a decoction of Nitrate of Iron at 3° Twaddel, give 6 turns; in another tub of water add 3 lbs. of dissolved Prussiate, give G turns, lift up and add 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol, give G turns more. To the tub with the Iron in add 1 lb. of Tin ; Crystals, pass through the Iron 4 time, and through the Prussiate 3 1 times. I No. 5G0. VICTORIA BLUE. This colour is dyed in most respects the same as 559, but with this difference, the Crystals of Tin are added to the Iron at the beginning, and the Oil of Vitriol is not added until the last time in the Prussiate. There is little difference in these two Blues, the latter may be some- what more bloomy. COTTON DYEING. lo2 No. 5G1. 20 lbs., NAPOLEON BLUE. This is the most bloomy shade that has yet been produced upon Cotton Fabrics or Cotton Ahxrus. In the first place add 1 quart of Muriate of Tin to a tub of cold water, enter the Cotton and give 8 turns ; in another tub add the clear liquor from 4 lbs. of Logwood, then add to another tub of cold water 2 quarts of Nitrate of Iron and 2 lbs. of Crystals of Tin, enter the Cotton and give G turns, then in another tub add 3 lbs. of dissolved Prussiate, enter this and give G turns, repeat 2 or 3 times ; then to the Prussiate add 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol, give 4 turns and wash off for the Stove. No. 562. ON BLEACOING COTTON. The Warps or Yarns are first steeped in Pearlasli Liqour at boiling point to soften the grease and dirt. Some Bleachers wash out in warm Pearlasli Liquor, after which they pass the Cotton through a solution of Chloride of Lime ; then they wash it in more Pearlash water. Both these processes are repeated until the goods become sufficiently White ; they are then taken and boiled in a weak solution of Pearlash and White Soap which removes all smell of the Chlorine and gives to the Cotton a beautiful whiteness. A much readier w'ay of Bleaching is that of steeping the Cotton* as in the former mode, and then passing it through Chloride of Lime and Oil of Vitriol until it assumes a good white appearance. Care i must be taken not to use too much Oil of Vitriol, as that would have a tendency to destroy the strength of the fabric. No. 5G3. now TO SPEND CATECHU. Let it be boiled well with 1 or 2 ozs. of Blue Vitriol to every pound of I Catechu and about 10 times its weight of water. No. 564. HOW TO MAKE THE SPIRITS FOE COTTON DYEING PURPOSES. Add 1 lb. of Aquafortis to 5 lbs. of Spirits of Salts, and kill them with ! about 21 ozs. of Tin to the pound. The Tin may be all added at j first either in a bottle or in a jar, see Cotton Spirits. i 153 COTTON DYEING. No. 5G.3. ON STEEPING. AVarps and HanUs slioitkl be well wet before they are dyed or they I will not dye even ; they should be steeped in boiling water for a few I hours at least or boiled if convenient so as to penetrate through every thread. 1 No. 56U. : HOW TO SPEND ANOTTA. It must be well boiled with about 1 gallon of water to the pound, and J lb. of Pearlashes. No. 567. HOW TO SPEND TURMERIC FOR COTTON DYEING. It must be boiled up with water, as much of the strength will bleed out of it without acid or alkali; but about 8 ozs. of Alum to 1 lb. of Turmeric is generally used. Pearlash will bleed more strength out of it, but it will not dye so bright and clear a Yellow, but it will be more dT the Olive cast. No. 568. HOY/ TO SPEND SAFFLOWER. In the first place put the quantity required into a bag and steep it in water for a few hours to soften it, then it must be trodden well and rinsed again in the water, and so on repeatedly until all the Y'’ellow colouring matter is extracted, which is of no use whatever to dyers ; then the flower will have a bright Crimson appearance and must be 1 put to steep in cold water sufiicient to cover it, and to every pound 1 of flower there must be added 8 ozs. of Pearlash previously dissolved I and afterwards well mixed amongst tlie flower so as to extract all the 1 Red colouring matter from it ; it wall take a few hours to do this ; i it must then be squeezed cither betw'een the hands or in a press, and ‘ the clear liquor is used for dyeing purposes. Alone it w'ill dye a very Blue sliade of Pink, but requires a little Tartaric or iSulphuric Acid to I redden it wLcn a Red shade is required. { It should be well rubbed before it is put into the bags to steeir in the water. I I I I I I I SILK DYEING. 1d4 SILK DYEING. ! No. 569. I 10 lbs., LAVENDEPv. To a tub of warm water at 20“ F. add 1 lb. of Extract of ludigo, 4 ! lbs. of Alum previously dissolved and a little plum Liquor according i to the redness of the shade required. I By adding more Extract a darker shade may be dyed, and a ' lighter by adding less of it. i By varying the quantities of Extract and Plum Liquor all the various shades of Lavender may be dyed. 1 No. 570. 10 lbs., LAVENDER, No. 2. Another mode of dyeing the foregoing colour is as follows : — First dye the Silk at boihng heat with a little Cudbear according to^fhe shade of redness required, and aftez’wards make up a tub of warm i water at about 20“ F. and add 4 lbs. of Alum and Extract according to the shade of Blueness required. No. 571. 10 lbs., LAVENDER. Make up a tub of warm water at about 20“, add 1 lb. of Extract, and in the place of Alum add Red Liquor and Logwood, about 2 or 3 quarts. The Logwood must be boiled up with the Red Liquor, say about 2 lbs. of Logwood to a gallon. Any variety of shades may be dyed in this way. Another mode of dyeing the red shades of Lavender is to run the Silk through the Plum vat when it is nearly worn out for the Plum colours. No. 572. SPIRIT YELLOWS. This colour is dyed by passing the Silk through strong Nitric Acid, and then through a little Soda or Soda Ashes in warm water. This will produce a good full Y'ellow or light Orange. 155 SILK, DYEING. 1 1 II No. 573. WOLD YELLOW. In a copper boil up a bunch of Wold, say 4 lbs., fasten it in the bottom of the vessel, add a few ounces of Pearlash, then put into another vessel as much of this clear Liquor as the shade may require with about 4 ozs. of Alum. The Wold Yellows are very light bright colours and are very fast. No. 574. 10 lbs., BARK YELLOW. Boil up in a bag about 4 lbs. of Quercitron Bark either in a copper or clean tub, add 2 lbs. of Alum and 1 pint of Nitrate or Muriate of Tin. This will produce a good full shade of Y'^ellow, and by adding more or less of Bark and Spirits, any shade of Yellow may be dyed. ^ No. 575. 10 lbs., TURMERIC YELLOW. In a tub scald about 4 lbs. of Turmeric and dye with the clear Liquor ; to another tub at boiling heat add 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol and use Liquor according to shade. Any shade of Yellow from the lightest to the darkest may be dyed from Turmeric, though it is very fugitive. Some dyers pass the Silk through a solution of Soda afterwards, which has a tendency to soften the Silk and raise the colour. No. 570. ORANGE COLOUR. To a tub of boiling Soap Lather add Anotta according to shade and turn the Silk on sharply; when up to the pattern jiass through cold water so that you may wring out ; wash twice through cold water and wring up. The Anotta Liquor for this colour must be very strong. To make the Liquor add 2 lbs. of Anotta to 1 gallon of boiling Ash Liquor ; it must be well boiled so that every particle may be dissolved ; only use the clear Liquor. All the various shades of Orange colour may be dyed by adding more or less Anotta. I I ! j SILK DYEING. 156 No. 577. 10 lbs., GRAIN CRIMSON. To a tub of warm water at 110° add 3 parts of Nitrate of Tin, (Aqua Fortis billed with Tin.) turn the Silk in this Liquor from two to three hours, then wring it out and stick it up again for the Cochineal. ' Scald 31 lbs. of Cochineal with boiling water, that is, about 3 V ozs. of Cochineal to each pound of Silk, put it into a bag and fill a tub with boiling water, and let it be poured through a bag into the tub so as to get all the strength out of the Cochineal. Then enter the Silk, give a few turns .and steep in the Liquor all night. In the morning wring it out and part the skeins for blueing if not blue enough. Get a tub of clean cold water, and put a few gallons of the Cochineal Liquor into it, which will prevent the Silk from having a black appearance, to which it is subject, and blue in it; the more cold water is used and the bluer it will appear. No. 578. 10 lbs., GRAIN SCARLET. ’ | Stuff or dye in a Soap Lather Anotta boiling hot until you get a j ! good full Orange bottom about the same as No. 570. Wash well out I ■ of the Anotta, then dye same as Crimson, .see No. 577, only add less j Cochineal ; if a moderate shade is required use about 2^ ozs. to the pound, but if a full shade is wanted 3^ ozs. to the pound. j No. 579. SKY BLUES FROM EXTRACT OF INDIGO. In the first place dissolve the quantity of Extract required in warm w'ater, and then put in a quantity of Wool which will take up or absorb the Extract ; afterwards put the Wool into another vessel and add a little Pearlash to discharge the Extract from the Wool again, and put the Silk in the same Liquor. By this means the colour will be much brighter than if the Extract was put upon the Silk without being put upon the Wool. It must then be washed off in a little warm water with a little Oil of Yitriol. If the colour be not sufficiently bloomy, pass it through a httle liquid Archil in warm water. This will put a bright bloomy appearance upon it. When the colour is not required to be very bright the Extract may be put upon the Silk with a little Alum at about 100°. 157 «ILK DYEING. No. 580. SKY BLUES FROM PRUSSIATE. To a tub of cold water add Nitrate of Iron until it stands at about lo Twaddel ; give the Silk a few turns, then pass it through weak Am- monia Liquor, say about 1 pint to 30 gallons. In another tub add I Brussiate Liquor according to shade required; 1 oz. to the pound will make a fine Light Blue; if a darker shade is required more Brussiate must bo added. After giving a few turns lift up and add about a Noggin of Oil of Vitriol, put down again and give a few more turns and wash off. No. 581a. 10 lbs., MAZARINE BLUE. To a copper or tub at boil add 6 lbs. of Liquid Archil, give a few turns and then pass through the Indigo vat. Either the Copperas or Woad vat will answer, but the Woad vat is preferable. No. 581b. 10 lbs., FRENCH BLUE. Give 6 turns in a tub of cold water with Nitrate of Iron at 6° Twaddel, then steep the Silk in the same Liquor for about 40 minutes, wring out and wash well, then give 12 turns in Common Soda water, say 1 lb. of it in 24 gallons of water at 120°, wring out, and without washing enter the Brussiate, I J lb. in 30 gallons of water, to which add 1 quart of Spirits of Salts, (Muriatic Acid,) and give 10 turns, then lift up and add 1 quart more Salts, give 10 turns more and wash out. In this state the Silk will appear a very dull colour, it must then be passed through weak Ammonia Liquor. To 30 gallons of water at 20o add 1 gill of Ammonia, give 6 turns, then dry it sharply. By passing it through this it will be raised to a very dark bloomy Blue, something like the Mazarine. No. 582. 10 lbs., ROYAL BLUE. Make up a tub of Nitrate of Iron at G°, to which add 1 pint of good Muriate of Tin and 4 ozs. of Tartaric Acid, turn it in this for about 1 hour. To another tub add 1|^ lb. of dissolved Brussiate and 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol, wash out of the Iron tub and enter the Brussiate tub, repeat in the Iron twice and once in the Brussiate, wash out of the Iron. In another tub add a little Oil of Vitriol until it tastes sour, give 6 turns in this to clear off any rust that may adhere to it. More Brus- siate will produce a darker colour and less a lighter, but the same quantity of Iron and Tin must be used. I SILK DYEING. 158 || No. 583. 10 lbs., BLUE BLACK. Steep iu Nitrate of Irou at 4“ for about 1 hour, wriug out autl wash it. ' Make up a tub at about 120“, add the clear Liquor from Logwood previously scalded, about the same weight as the Silk, and a pailful j of melted Soap to keep up the lather, give 12 turns, if not dark enough add a little more Logwood. I No. 581. i| ■I 1 10 lbs., COMMON FULL BLACK. | ' Steep in Nitrate of Iron at 4° for about one hour, after giving the i Silk a few turns, wring out and wash well in a tub of warm water at ; about 120°, add 15 lbs. of Logwood scalded, add only the clear Liquor and 5 lbs. of scalded Fustic and a little melted Soap, If the colour is not flat enough add a little more Fustic Liquor, and if not dark j enough add more Logwood. I ! No. 585. I ! LIGHT BKOWNS OF DIFFEEENT SHADES. ] For a good light Brown, stuff with Anotta Liquor in a Soap lather I up to a good orange in boiling water, after this wash well and sadden I in a weak Copperas Liquor cold, let the Copperas Liquor bo very clear, then wash off and dye with Fustic and Archil. All the light shades of Browns may be dyed after this manner. When a rather darker shade is required, sadden rather stronger. The yellowness of the colour must be regulated with the Fustic and the redness with the Archil according to the shade required. 1 I No. 586. DARK BROWNS OF DIFFERENT SHADES. Stuff with Anotta in boiling water until you obtain a full Orange, Sadden with stronger Copperas Liquor, and, then dye with Fustic, Archil, and Logwood. Any shade required iu Browns may be dyed after this manner, but it is imjiossible to point out every tinge and hue as in Browns they are so vaiicd. The Fustic produces the Yellow part of the Colour, tho Archil the Red part, and the Logwood the darkness or the Blue part after the Copperas or saddening. 159 SILK DYEING. No. 5S7. CALIFORNIA BROWNS AND OLIVES. Another mode of dyeing Browns. Put on a strong Anotta bottom as in the other Browns at boiling point and wash w'ell out of it ; then scald Fustic and add the clear Liquor according to shade, and a little Sumac Liquor along with it. Then sadden in cold water with a little Argol and Copperas Liquor, and when the shade is wanted of a very hue Olive cast, add a little Turmeric with the Fustic. All the bright Colours in Snuff Browu. California Colours, and light Olive are dyed according to this Receipt. The darkness of the Colour must be regulated by the Sumac and Copperas. No. 588. RED OR CLARET BROWN. This class of colours is dyed with Anotta bottoms same as other, and then passed through the Plum vat. They are perhaps the richest Browns that can be produced, and are dyed better by this means than by any other. But for the information of those who are desirous of understanding the different modes of dyeing the same Colour with different ingredients and by different modes I will next insert another mode of dyeing the Red Browns. No. 589. ANOTHER MODE OF DYEING RED BROWNS. First steep the Silk in Alum at about 6° Twaddel for about 1 hour, then wash it well in cold water ; scald Logwood, Peachwood, and Fustic separately, and use the clear Liquor. The Logwood must be used very sparingly as it will darken very fast. The Peachwood must be the strongest, and Fustic moderate, say ■ G parts of Peachw'ood, 4 paits of Fustic, 1 part of Logwood, using quantity according to shade required, and dyeing at about 140°. From the lightest to the darkest shades may be dyed after this man- ner. These Browns are dyed sooner and cheaper than the saddened ' I Browns, but are not so permanent. , j I j No. 590. 1 SOUR BROWN. Almost any shade of Browm may be dyed in the following manner by varying the ingredients according to shade required : — Dye with Camwood, Sulphate of Indigo, and Sulphuric Acid. i SILK DYEIXG. 100 No. 591. LIGHT CLARET BROWN. Pye witli 2 lbs. of Camwood to each pound of Silk add Oil of Vitriol and a little Red Ar"ol for the sour ; Boil 1 hour in a clean copper, then sadden with a little Sulphate of Indigo. No. 592. DARK CLARET BROWN. Stuff with 3 lbs. of Camwood to each lb. of Silk, add a little Argol and Oil of Vitriol for the acid, boil an hour and a half and wash well out of this Liquor, and sadden in cold water with Copperas Liquor. The Camwood must be boiled in bags. No. 593. CLARETS AND CHOCOLATES. Steep in Alum at 6° Twaddel for about one hour, wash well out, then dye with Peachwood and Logwood according to shade ; if a Claret, use very little Logwood, if a Chocolate, use a little more, but use most Peachwood in all cases. Dye at about 160°. All the various shades of Claret and Chocolate may be dyed by adding more or less of the two ingredients, Peachwood and Logwood. No. 594. ANOTHER MODE OF DYEING CLARETS AND CHOCOLATES. Boil with Alum and Peachwood together, and then finish in another vessel with Logwood according to the darkness of shade required. The body of Colour in this mode of dyeing is put on in the boil- ing, and the Logwood is used to blue and darken the same. No. 595. MOCK CRIMSONS, DYED DIFFERENT WAYS. These Colours are dyed by first boiling in Alum, and then finished i with Peachwood Liquor and a little Muriate of Tin at boiling point. Another mode is by steeping the Silk in Alum for a few hours, j and then dyeing at the boiling point with peachwood only But the best and readiest mode is by dyeing it off at once with ' Peachwood Liquor and Muriate of Tin, as either lighter or dark shades may be dyed by adding Peachwood according to shade required. These arc all different from the Crimson Vat Colours. IGl 81 LK DYEING. No. 596. OLIVE. In the first place sadden the Silk with Copperas Liquor, wash out and dye with Fustic moderately strong at boiling heat. Darken with Logwood, blue with Sulphate of Indigo, and when to pattern, wash off in cold water with a httle Oil of Vitriol. Lighter and darker shades may be dyed by varying the qiiantity of Logwood. No. 597. PUEPLES. A variety of Purples may be dyed by first steeping the Silk in Alum and afterwards dyeing with Logwood and Oxalic Acid. No. 598. MAEOONS. Various shades of Maroons may be dyed with Lima Peachwood, Muriate of Tin, and Alum at boiling point. No. 599. MAEOON, ANOTHEE WAY. Dye with Cudbear at boiling heat, add a little Young Fustic and Muriate of Tin, according to shade. Any shade of Maroon may be dyed by adding or diminishing the Cudbear according to shade required. No. 600. EUBY. The Euby is dyed with Cudbear alone ; it will produce a very fine colour of itself. When a Blue shade is required add a little Am- monia, and when a Eed shade is required add a little Muriate of Tin. SILK DYEING. 162 No. 601. D.\UNC£ BLACK. Give 10 turns in Nitrate of Iron at 4°, then fill up with Prussiate, ] about 2 ozs. to the pound ; repeat twice, wash out of the Iron and j sadden with Copperas. I If a darker shade is required pass through a little Logwood | Liquor. I This colour is dyed with a Blue bottom, so that it may not be ! discharged or spotted Avith Acid as Blacks are generally. ! No. 602. VIOLET. A variety of shades of this colour may be dyed by first steeping the Silk in Alum, then dyeing with a little Cudbear and Logwood accord- ing to shade. If a very Blue shade is required add a little Ammonia, and if a red shade is required add a little Alum with the Cudbear. Clean cold water will blue this class of colours. The Violets are not all dyed in this manner ; some are dyed in a Plum vat, and others with Aniline colours, as many of my Eeceipts shew. No. 603. 10 lbs. LIGHT GREEN. To a tub of cold water add 6 lbs. of dissolved Alum, give the Silk a few turns, steep it in the same Liquor all night and wash it out next morning. Boil up 10 lbs. of chipped Ebony Wood, put the clear Liquor into another tub of water at 100°, give 6 turns, lift up and add about 1 gill of Extract of Indigo, or more according to shade required. No. 604. 10 lbs. MIDDLE GREEN. Steep in Alum for about twelve hours same as No. 603, wash out of the Alum, boil up 20 lbs. of Fustic, use the clear Liquor at about 120“; give 10 turns, then lift up and add Extract according to shade required. If a Yellower shade is required, add more Fustic or a little Tur- meric Liquor. ' lG;i SILK DYEING. No. 605. j 10 lbs., DARK GREEN. Steep the Silk same as in the last Receipt and dye in a tub of water at about 120°, with Fustic or Turmeric Liquor and Extract according I to shade. I No. GOG. BOTTLE GREEN. The Bottle Green and Dark Olive shades are dyed in all respects the same as the foregoing Greens, but they are passed through Copperas Liquor, and also through a decoction of Logwood Liquor when dark shades are required. No. 607. OTHER GREENS OF DIFFERENT SHADES. To a Tub of water at 140°, add about 4 lbs. of Alum, Fustic Liquor, and Extract of Indigo according to shade. Dye off in this, and when up to pattern wash in cold water, but to which add a little Oil of Vitriol to keep the Blue on the Silk. By this mode of dyeing Greens, aU the various shades may be obtained with any tinge or hue by adding Fustic or Turmeric Liquor according to tint required. It is a readier mode of dyeing the Greens, and equally good. No. 608. FAST GREEN WITH A BLUE BOTTOM. First pass the Silk through the Copperas vat to put on the body of Blue required for the shade, then dye at boiling heat with Fustic according to shade required, with a little Alum for the sour to work on the Fustic. When an Olive shade is required, add a little Tur- meric. All shades of middle and dark Green may be dyed after this manner. The Colours dyed in this way are not so soon stained as the other ; they are also more durable by having a blue vat bottom. All these Greens may be dyed with the Malachite Aniline Dyes. NILK DYEING. 164 No. 609. LIGHT OLIVES OF DIFFERENT SHADES. Tliis class of Colours is dyed the best with a light Blue bottom, then dyed off at the boiling point with Turmeiic Li(|uor and a little Archil. Wliou the Green shade is required add a little Turmeric only, and when a Redder shade is required add a little Archil also. Some of the finest colours may be dyed after this manner. The colours of the Acanthuses, Ottoman Leaves and bronzes are dyed in this way. No. 610. 10 lbs., FLESH COLOUR OR BUFF. Make up a tub at boiling point with a little White Soap, 4 ozs. of Pearlash, and 2 quarts of Anotta Liquor ; enter the Silk and turn on until it be dyed to pattern. Lighter or darker shades may be dyed by adding more or less Anotta Liquor. No. 611. 10 lbs., SALMON. ’ I This colour is dyed the same as Flesh Colour, but must be passed through a little Muriate of Tin in a tub of warm water afterwards, in order to raise the Redness of the colour. No. 612. ! 10 lbs., GOLD COLOUR. i Dye at boiling heat in a Soap lather with Anotta according to shade required. If a full shade is required, a full shade of Anotta colour must be put upon the Silk, and if lighter shades are required, a lighter bottom must be put on. After which, boil up 4 lbs. of Bark with 1 quart of Muriate of Tin ; the Bark must be put into a bag. Cool the vessel down a little, enter the Silk and turn it for about twenty minutes. If it is not Yellow enough, take out the bag, add a little more Bark and 1 pint more of Muriate of Tin, boil the bag a little, then enter the Silk again and dye to shade. I 165 SILK DYEING. No. G13. 10 lbs., YELLOW FAWN DRAB. To a tub of warm water add 1 quart of Anotta Liquor, 1 lb. to a gallon of water, and 8 ozs. of Pearlasb; to this add 2 lbs. of scalded Fustic and 8 ozs. of Sumac; enter, give 10 turns, lift up and throw out a few pailfuls of the liquor; dissolve 8 ozs. of Argol and 2 lbs. of Copperas in 1 gallon of w'ater, add 1 quart of this to the Liquor, and if not flat enough add more of it. No. 614. 10 lbs., FAWN DRAB. To a tub of warm water add 1 pint of Anotta Liquor, 1 lb. of Sumac, and 1 lb. of Fustic ; and sadden down with Copperas Liquor according to shade. No. 61,5. 10 lbs., FLAT DRAB. To a tub of warm water add 1 gill of Anotta, 1 lb. of Fustic, li lb. of i Sumac, and sadden in another tub of cold water with Copperas Liquor i according to the shade of deadness required. l No. 616. ! 1 HEAVY DRAB. ! !i Dye in a killed Liquor at about 100‘>, with a little Fustic Liquor, a Ij I little Archil, and a little Extract of Indigo. j Any shade of Drab of a heavy, flat, or dark appearance may be | dyed in this way, with these ingredients. i j The Liquor is said to be killed when a quantity of Copperas ! I Inquor is poured into it. For these shades it requires about J a j i noggin to 10 lbs. of Silk. [ No. 617. SLATE DRAB. Dve in killed Liquor with a little Fustic Liquor and a little Logwood Ijiquor; if not Blue enough, add a little Sulphate of Indigo. SILK DYEING. 16G No. G18. 10 lbs. BRONZE DRAB. In a tub of warm water at lOOo, add 1 lb. of Fustic and G ozs. of Archil, then sadden with Copperas Liquor. These shades of Dv-abs are all very distinct, the last three especially. Perhaps there is as much difference in the shade as is possible to be made in Drabs; but all the varieties of shades that come between these may be dyed according to the preceding receipts, and which is the way that most Drabs are dyed. I will now give a few Receipts of another mode of dyeing Fawns by means of Acid instead of a killed Liquor. Almost all Silk requires to be passed through a mode of softening as it is called by Silk dyers. It is made as follows: — Add 2 lbs. of Sweet Oil to 1 lb. of Sulphuric Acid, (v)il of Vitriol,) and stir it quickly when mixing. This will form a sort of paste which will mix with water, not floating on the top like Oil. A little of this must be added to a tub of cold water, and the Silk passed through it, which will give it a very smooth finish and cause it to spin much better than it other- wise would. No. G19. ANOTHER MODE OF DYEING DRABS. A great variety of Drabs may be dyed at boiling heat with a little Oil of Vitriol lor the sour, and a little Argol. A many of the Fawns shades W'ould require only a little liquid Archil and Madder Liquor, less or more according to shade. Some of the brightest colours of light Fawns may be dyed in this manner; and by adding a little Extract of Indigo to flatten or sadden with, a still greater variety may be dyed. The colours dyed in this manner are firmer and less liable to stain than those dyed in a killed Liquor. No. G20. SOUR BROWNS. A great variety of Browns may be dyed with Acid, using Camwood lor the Red part of the colour, Turmeric for the Yellow part, and then saddening with Copperas in another vessel, cold. After a good body of Camwnod is got upon the Silk, it may be saddened down to either a hght or a dark shade. SILK DYEING. No. 621. FRENCH WHITE. This colour is first bleached, then dyed with Archil and Extract of Indigo. Make up a tub at about 160°, to which add a little liquid Archil and a little Extract with a pailful of Soap Lather. This will put down the Yellowness of colour and raise it to a fine clear White. Be careful not to add too much of either Archil or Extract, for it re- quires very little. Another mode of dyeing a White is by stoving it w'ith Sulphur. No. 622. PINKS FROM SAFFLOWER. The Safflow'er for light Pinks is first put upon Cotton, afterwards discharged from the Cotton. Then it is put upon the Silk in the following manner: — the safflower is spent with Pearlashes in the usual way, and the Liquor put into a vessel with water. Then a quantity of either Cotton Yarns or Cotton Wool is steeped in the Liquor so as to take up the strength of it. The Cotton must then be put into another vessel of clean water with a portion of Pearlashes, which will discharge the strength of the Safflower from the Cotton and clear it from all dirt. Tlie Silk must then be dyed in the same Liquor with a little Oil of Vitriol. The whole of tins process must be cold. By this means the colour will be clear and bright. t; ■V I 623. PINKS FROM PEACHWOOD. i This colour may be dyed either by being passed through the ; ! Crimson Vat or by first steeping the Silk in Alum, then dyeing with j, Peachwood at boiling heat; by using a little Muriate of Tin the I ; colour Avill be much brighter. 624. GRAIN PINKS. I ; This class of Pinks may be dyed in various ways. One manner 1 j is, first pass the Silk through Red Liquor, then dye at boiling heat j with the clear Liquor from scalded Cochineal. j Another mode is, fii’st steep the Silk in Alum, then dye same as I when passed through Red Liquor. I And another )node is by dyeing it the same as dyeing Grain i' Crimson, only using much less Cochineal. SILK DYEING. 1(38 625. ,j MOCK SCARLET. ! Get a good Auotta bottom ou the Silk tlie same as for the 1 1 other Scarlet until it appears a good Orange colour, then wash, then ! i spend about 4 or 5 lbs. of Peachwood to 10 lbs. of Silk; add the clear Ij Liquor to a tub of hot water, give 10 turns, then pa.s 3 through the Crimson Vat. i Another mode is to dye it at boiling heat with Peachwood Jnquor ’ and Muriate of Tin after the Anotta Orange is put ou it as in the , other mode. No. G26. REAL PARIS BLACKS. In a tub of water at 180", made up with 3 parts of Fustic and 1 ; part of Bark Liquor, add 2 ozs. of Verdigris and 1 oz. of Copperas to every pound of Silk. Steep the Silk in this all night after giving i it a few turns. In the morning wring out and wash well twice. Then i make the Silk up for dyeing in a Logwood Liquor at 150o. This ' must be dyed in a Soap Lather. If the shade required be a dark one, i * much Logwood must be used ; if it has a green appearance, use more j Fustic, and when dark enough wash twice over. Then stick up j the Silk for softening in warm water. The softening must be a little l Soda and Neatsfoot Oil. This is the best Black that can be dyed. j I No. 627. I NAPOLEON BLUE, AND HOW TO MAKE THE SPIRITS | FOR THE SAME. !: Into a tub put 100 lbs. of Spirits of Salts, (iMuriatic Acid,) j add 7 lbs. of Feathered Tin, i)ut the Jar into boiling water, and keep up the heat until the Tin is all eaten away. Into another i jar about the same size put the same quantity of Spirits of Salts, to ‘ which add Iron filings until it will eat no more, (it will be continually eating for two or three days, and will require to be kept warm all the time,) and after settling, it will be ready for use. This is the real Muriate of Iron, the former the real Muriate of Tin. Some prefer Nitrate of Iron to Muriate of Iron, which may bo made as follows : j Into a jar of about the same size put about the same quantity of ij Aquafortis, (Nitric Acid,) at about 20" Twaddel, to wliich add iron filings as in the other Spirits until it will eat no more; add only a ■; little of it at once as it is subject to boil over when too much is added : at a time; it will not require heat as the other Spirits. b 169 SILK DYEING. These are the Spirits to be used iu proportion as follows: To a half-pipe tub of cold water add 2 quarts of the Muriate of Tin, and the same quantity of Muriate or Nitrate of Ii’on and 1 lb. of Tartaric 1 Acid, This is the Mordant for the Silk. In another tub of the same size add 6 lbs. of Alum previously dissolved. Then add 2 ozs. of the Red Prussiate of Potash to every pound of Silk to be dyed. In this give the Silk 10 turns; the Liquor must be at about 100°; then slightly wash, enter the Mordant tub. give ten turns, wring out, wash it again, and repeat iu each until you ; ; get the shade required. It may require 5 or 6 rounds, or more, ' according to the darkness of the colour. This will dye a good colour ; I i if a bluer shade is required, add more of the Nitrate or Muriate of il Iron and less of Muriate of Tin; and if a Redder shade is required, add more of the Muriate of Tin and less of the Nitrate or Muriate of Iron for the Mordant. I ; The Yellow Prussiate of Potash will produce nearly the same I I shade of Colour with the same weight of it as of the Red. ^ The Silk must pass through the Mordant the last, and not through the Prussiate; after which it must be washed out and put to soak in Fuller’s earth for a few hours ; then wash it out of the earth and pass it through the Mordant again with about 10 turns more; then wring it out, not wash it, ready for getting up. In another tub of cold water add a little Tartaric Acid, sufficient to keep the colour ; to a spoonful of the best Oil, add the least drop of Oil of Vitriol, put this into the tub, and give the Silk a few turns, and then wring it out. If the Silk does not appear dark enough, dry it hot, but if dark enough, dry it cool. This is for the first day’s work, the second will not require the same amount of wares. For the next day’s work, only add about one half I of the Spirits of each kind for the Mordant, much of the strength I of the other will be left in the tub. Take the clear liquor from the } Prussiate tub and throw down the sediment, and add only 1§ ozs. of I I Prussiate to the pound of Silk in the place of 2 ozs. heat up to 100“ I and add about the same quantity of Alum as before, and dye in all j respects the same as the previous day. I Since the introduction of the Aniline colours many of the Silks j are dyed with them, as may be seen from the various shades I have dyed myself, and of which I have given some receipts. I ! II ii i: i DAMASK DYEING. 1 70 DAMASK DYEING. No. G28. 10 Puces, \ COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS. PINK AND WHITE. Dye iu a clean vessel with 10 ozs. of Paste Cochineal. 5 lbs. of Alum, 2 lbs. of White Tartar, 4 pints of Nitrate of Tin and Boil 30 minutes. No. 629. 10 Pieces, i WORSTED DAMASK. PINK. Dye in a clean vessel with 1^ lb. of Paste Cochineal. 4 lbs of Alum, 4 lbs, of White Tartar, 6 pints of Nitrate of Tin and Boil 1 hour. Lighter or darker shades may be dj'ed by adding more or less Paste with the same quantity of Acid. No. 630. 10 Pieces, i DAMASK COTTON & WORSTED. SALMON AND WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel with 4 ozs. of Dry Cochineal. 5 lbs. of Brown Tartar, 5 pints of Nitrate of Tin and Boil 50 minutes. No. 631. 10 Pieces, i WORSTED DAMASKS. SALMON. Dye in a clean vessel with 8 ozs. of Dry Cochineal. 10 pints of Nitrate of Tin, 6 lbs. of Tartar and Boil 1 hour. If a Yellower shade is required, add 4 ozs. of Young Fustic. No. 632. 10 Pieces, i COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS. _ ROSE COLOUR. Dye in a clean vessel with 1 lb of Dry Cochinoal. 4 lbs. of Brown Tartar, 2 lbs. of Alum, 6 pints of Nitrate of Tin and Boil 40 minutes. 171 DAMASK DYEING. No. 633. 10 Pieces, i WORSTED DAMASKS. ROSE COLOUR. Dye in a clean vessel with 1| lb. of Dry Cochineal. 6 lbs. of Brow'll Tartar, 4 quarts of Nitrate of Tin and Boil 1 hour. If Bluer shades are required, let one half of the Cochineal be paste, and the other half dry, and use rather less Nitrate of Tin. No. 634. 10 Pieces, COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS. WHITE AND LIGHT RED CRIMSON. Dj'e in a clean vessel with 2 lbs. of Alum. 4 lbs. of Brown Tartar, 1^ lb. Dry Cochineal, 4 quarts of Nitrate of Tin and Boil 40 minutes. No. 635. 10 Pieces, I WORSTED DAMASKS. LIGHT RED CRIMSON. Dye in a clean vessel with 4 lbs. of Alum. 6 lbs. of Brow'n Tartar, 2^ lbs. of Dry Cochineal, 10 pints of Nitrate of Tin and Boil 1 hour. No. 636. 10 Pieces, COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. GRAIN CRIMSON. Dye in a clean vessel with 4 lbs. of Paste Cochineal. 2 lbs. of Dry Cochineal, 2 lbs. of Alum, 4 lbs. of Brow'ii Tartar, 10 pints of Nitrate of Tin and Boil 40 minutes. No. 637. 10 J’isces, WORSTED DAMASKS. GRAIN CRIMSON. : ! Dye in a clean vessel w'ith 5 lbs. of Paste Cochineal. 24 lbs of Dry Cochineal, 5 lbs. of Brown Tartar, 3 lbs. of Alum, 6 quarts of Nitrate of Tin and Boil 1 hour. j When the shades are not required very blue, more Dry Cochineal 1 1 must be used, and less Paste Cochineal, and if wanted Bluer, use 1 ' more Paste Cochineal, and less Dry Cochineal. No. 638. 10 Pieces, i DAMASK COTTON AND WORSTED. BUFF AND WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel with 2 ozs. of Dry Cochineal. 1 lb. of Young Fustic, 4 lbs. of Tartar, 6 pints of Nitrate of Tin and Boil 40 I j minutes. * DAMASK DYEING 172 No. 08!E 10 Pieces, WOKSTED DAMASKS. BUFF. Dye ill a cleau vessel ivitli 3 ozs. of Dry Cochineal. l A lb. of Young Fustic, 0 lbs. of Tartar, 8 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Darker shades may he dyed by adding more Cochineal, and the same quantity of other ingredients. No. 640. 10 Pieces, i COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. STRAW COLOUR AND WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel with 5 lbs. of Brown Tartar. 10 ozs. of Y’oung Fustic, 1 oz. of Dry Cochineal, 6 pints of Nitrate of Tin and Boil 20 minutes. No. 641. 10 Pieces, WORSTED DAMASKS. STRAW COLOUR. Dye ill a clean vessel with 6 lbs. of Brown Tartar. 12 ozs. of Young Fustic, 1^ oz. of Dry Cochineal, 8 pints of Nitrate of Tin and Boil 40 minutes. No. 642. 10 Pieces, 3 COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. YELLOW AND WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel -w'ith 5 lbs. of Brown Tartar. .'5 lbs. of Young Fustic, 5 pints of Nitrate of Tin and Boil 20 minutes. No. 643. 10 Pieces, f DAMASKS. YELLOW. Dye in a clean vessel with 6 lbs. of Brown Tartar. 6 lbs. of Young Fustic, 8 pints of Nitrate of Tin and Boil half an hour. Darker shades of Yellow may be dyed by adding more Fustic, and using the same quantity of other ingredients. If very bright shades arc required, use more Spirits in the dyeing. 173 DAMASK DYEING. No. 644. 10 Fieces, f COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS. LAC SCARLET AND WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel with 7 lbs. of Lac. 5 lbs. of Young Fustic, 8 pints of Nitrate of Tin, 5 lbs. of Brown Tartar or White Argol and Boil 1 hour. No. 645. 10 Pieces, f WORSTED DAMASKS. LAC SCARLET. Dye in a clean vessel with 6 lbs. of White Argol. 6 lbs. of Young Fustic, 10 pints of Nitrate of Tin, 8 lbs. of Lac and Boil 1 hour. No. 646. 10 Pieces, i COTTON AND WORSTED DAMASKS. GRAIN SCARLET & WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel with 5 lbs. of Dry Cochineal. 5 lbs. of Brown Tartar, 21 lbs. of Young Fustic, 8 pints of Nitrate of Tin and Boil 1 hour. No. 647. 10 Pieces, WORSTED DAMASKS, GRAIN SCARLET. Dye with 6 lbs. of Dry Cochineal. 6 lbs. of Brown Tartar, 10 pints of Nitrate of Tin, lbs. of Young Fustic and Boil 1 hour. This is the real Grain Scarlet. It can be imitated with Lac Dye, but is not quite so bright. No. 648. 10 Pieces, i COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. ORANGE AND WHITE. LIGHT Dye in a clean vessel with 5 lbs. of Brown Tartar. 6 pints of Nitrate of Tin, 6 lbs. of Young Fustic, 12 ozs. of Dry Cochineal and Boil 40 minutes. 175 DAMASK DYEING. No. 654. 10 Pieces, i COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. LIGHT GREEN & WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel with 15 lbs. of Alum. 6 lbs. of White Argol, 15 lbs. of Chipped Fustic, 1 Tot of Liquid Extract and Boil j 1 hour. Liquid Extract is Sulphate of Indigo. ■ No. 655. 10 Pieces, 1 WORSTED DAMASKS. LIGHT GREEN, Dye with 20 lbs. of Alum,- 20 lbs. of Fustic, 8 lbs. of White Argol, 1^ Tot of Liquid Extract and Boil 1 hour. If the shade is required Bluer, add a little more Extract, and if Yellower, a little more Fustic. No. 656. 10 Pieces, I COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. MIDDLE GREEN & WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel with 6 lbs. of White Argol. 15 lbs. of Alum, 1 gill of Chemic, 20 lbs. of Fustic and Boil 1 hour. Chemic is Sulphate of Indigo. No. 657. 10 Pieces, i WORSTED DAMASKS. MIDDLE GREEN. j Dye with 6 lbs. of White Argol, 20 lbs. of Alum, pint of Chemic, j 25 lbs. of Fustic and boil 1 hour. j Darker shades of Green must have more Chemic, and if a Yellower ] shade is required, add more Fustic. No. 658. 10 Pieces, i COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. CINNAMON BROWN & WHITE. Dye in a clean vessel with 40 lbs. of Old Rasped Fustic, 2 lbs. of Camwood, 10 lbs. of Super Argol, 2 lbs. of Red Argol, 20 lbs. of Alum, and 10 lbs. of Madder. Super Argol is Salt Cake. DAMASK DYEING. 170 No. 659. 10 Pieces, i WORSTED DAMASKS. CINNAMON DROWN. Dye with 50 lbs. of Old Rasped Fustic, 15 lbs. of Super Argol, 25 lbs. of Alum, 4 lbs. of Red Argol. lbs. of Camwood, or a bandful of Cudbear may be used in the place of Camwood, which will produce the same effect ; and boil 1^ hour. If a flatter shade is required add a spoonful of Liquid Extract. No. 660. 15 Pieces, i COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. LIGHT FAWN. Dye in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Super Argol, 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol, 2 handfuls of Madder, 4 ozs. of Paste Cudbear, 1 spoonful of Liquid Extract and boil 1 hour. No. 661. 15 Pisces, i WORSTED DAMASKS. DARKER FAWN. Dye in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Super Argol, 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol, 2 spoonfuls of Liquid Extract, 4 handfuls of Madder, 6 ozs. of Paste Cudbear and boil to shade. If a darker shade is required add more Extract, if redder more Cudbear. No. 662. 10 Pieces, i DAMASKS. LIGHT SILVER DRAB. Dye in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Super Argol, 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol, 6 ozs. of Paste Cudbear, 2 spoonfuls of Liquid Extract, and boil 40 minutes. , No. 663. j 10 Pieces, DAMASKS. DARKER SILVER DRAB. 1 Dye in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Super Argol, 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol, 12 ozs. of Paste Cudbear, 1 handful of Madder, 4 spoonfuls I of Liquid Extract and boil 1 hour. If a darker shade is required add more Liquid Extract and other i ingredients. IT'T' DAMASK DYEING. No. 604. 10 Piecfs, ^ WORSTED DAMASKS. MOCK CRIMSON. The Pieces must be boiled for 3 hours in a clean vessel with 30 lbs. of Alum, 10 lbs. of White Argol or Brown Tartar, 1 quart of Nitrate of Tin. After which they must be well cleaned, and then they must be finished in another clean vessel with 25 lbs. of Peachwood, 8 gills of Nitrate of Tin, 5 pailfuls of Uiiue and boiled a few Ends; then cleaned and dried for the press. This colour will very much approach the Grain Crimson, but it will not so well bear exposure to the atmosphere. The Cotton and Worsted Damasks are dyed the same way, but require less Acid in the boiling and less Peachwood in the finishing. In dyeing this colour the Cotton is sometimes bleached. Which tends to improve it vei’y much. It must be passed a few times through a weak Chloride of Lime Liquor with a little Nitric Acid in it. Sulphuric Acid is too strong and effects the colour too much. The Pieces should next be cleaned, and then Blued up to pattern in a vessel of warm water with Urine according to shade required. No. 665. 10 Piecen, } DAMASKS. SEA GREEN. Dye in a clean vessel at boiling heat with 5 lbs. of Fustic, 1 tot of Liquid Extract, 20 lbs. of Alum, 5 lbs. of White Argol and boil 1 hour. When the shade is required darker add more Extract, and when Yellower add more Fustic. No. 660. 10 Pieces, i DAMASKS. COFFEE BROWN. Dye with 80 lbs. of Camwood, 10 lbs. of Red Argol or 20 lbs. of Super Argol, 1 pint ofChemic, 8 pints of Oil of Vitriol and boil 2 hours. This shade of colour is not often wanted, but as it is sometimes called for it is here inserted. No. 667. 10 Pieces, DAMASKS. BLACK. Boil the Pieces 40 minutes in a clean vessel with 2 lbs. of Red Argol, and 1 lb. of Chrome. Wash them and finish in another vessel with 20 lbs. of Logwood, 5 lbs. of Old Fustic and boil half an hour. DAMASK AND CAMLET DYEING. 178 TWO COLOURED DAMASK AND CAMLET DYEING. IS’the following pieces are all six-quarters. No. 668. 10 Pieces, COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. SCARLET & PINK. In this colour the Worsted must be first dyed Scarlet in a clean vessel with 12 lbs. of Lac Dye, 12 quarts of Nitrate of Tin, 10 lbs, of Young Fustic, 8 lbs. of White Argol or Brown Tartar and boil 1 hour. The Pieces must then be well cleaned and then Cotton dyed with Safflower. A light shade of Pink will take 1 lb. of Safflower to a Piece, and a dark shade 1^- lb. It must be spent according to Receipt. The clear Liquor must be put into a cistern of cold water, with about 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol and 1 lb. of Tartaric Acid. The goods must then be entered and turned on in the Liquor until dyed to shade required. If a Blue shade of Pink is required rather less Oil of Vitriol must be used, and if a Redder shade more must be used. Any shade of Pink may be dyed by adding more or less of the clear Safflower Liquor. Various shades of Pink may be dyed from Peachwood, but none are equal to the Pink dyed with Safflower. No. 669. 10 Pieces, COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. SCARLET & YELLOW. The Pieces in these two colours must be first dyed Scarlet the same as in the last colour with the same quantity of ingredients, and then washed and Cotton dyed either through the Padding Machine or in a cistern of cold or lukewarm water with about 1 lb. of Turmeric to the Piece, more or less according to shade of Y'^ellow required. The Turmeric must be boiled up with a little Oil of Vitriol; use about 1 lb. of Turmeric to 1 gallon of water, and take the clear Liquor only. DAMASK AND CAJILET DYEING. No. G70. 10 Pieces, COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. SCARLET & FLESH COLOUR. ! Worsted dye iu Scarlet same as No. G68, and Cotton dye either at the I Padding Machine or in a clean vessel with 2 ozs. of Anotta spent with ' 2 quarts of water and 2 ozs. of Pearlash ; boil well for a few minutes, j so that every particle be dissolved. Take the clear Liquor. I j A great variety of shades of Cotton may be dyed by varying the I I quantity of Anotta according to shade, using more for dark and less for light shades. No. 671. 1 j 10 Pieces, COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. j ! SCARLET & SALMON. j j I First Worsted dye iu all respects for Scarlet same as No. 668, and i Cotton Dye in a clean cistern of cold water with 5 lbs. of spent Safflower, and 1 lb. of Anotta spent with 1 lb. of Pearlash. Use the ! I clear Liquor only. Give 10 Ends and wash off. No. 672. 10 Pieces, DAMASKS. SCARLET & ROSE COLOUR. First Worsted dye Scarlet same as No. 668, and Cotton dye with 8 ozs. of Anotta spent with 8 ozs. of Pearlash and the clear Liquor from 6 lbs. of Safflower. Give 10 Ends and wash off in another cistern of cold water with 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol in it. The Oil will raise both the Safflower and the Anotta. This is perhaps one of the finest colours that can be dyed, more especially in a two coloured Damask, possessing great brightness and beauty. No. 673. 10 Pieces, DAMASKS. LIGHT GREEN & PINK. 1 1 First Worsted dye Green in a clean vessel with 8 lbs. of White Argol, j 20 lbs. of Fustic, 20 lbs. of Alum, 1 gill of Liquid Extract and boil 1 j hour. Clean and Cotton dye in aU respects the same as No. 668, 1 with Safflower. DAMASK AND CAMLET DYEING. 180 No. 674. 10 Pieces, COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. MIDDLE GREEN & PINK. First Worsted dye with 20 lbs. of Fustic, 10 lbs. of Red Argol, 20 lbs. Alum, 1 lb. of Chemic and boil 1 hour. If darker shades of Green are wanted, add more Chemic according to shade. Cotton dye same as No. 668, with Safflower. No. 675. 10 Pieces, COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. GREEN & YELLOW. This must bo first Worsted dyed according to shade, and then washed and Cotton dyed same as No. 669, with Turmeric. No. 676. 10 Pieces, COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. GREEN & SALMON. Worsted Dye to the shade of Green in the same way ns No. 675, using more or less Chemic, according to shade rcquii'ed, and Cotton Dye in all respects same as No. 675. No. 677. 10 Pieces, COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. SAXON BLUE & ROSE COLOUR. First Worsted Dye Saxon Blue in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Crystals, 2 quarts of Oil of Vitriol, 2 ozs. of Prussiate of Potash, 1 pint of Nitrate of Tin, 1 pint of Liquid Extract. Wash and Colton Dye in all respects the same as No. 669, with Safflower and Anotta. A great variety of shades may be dyed in these two colours by dyeing different shades of Blue and varying the colouring of the Cotton as well. 181 DAMASK AND CAMLET DYEING. No. 678. 10 Pieces, COTTON & WOESTED DAMASKS. SKY BLUE & PINK. Worsted dye first in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Crystals, 3 pints of Oil of Vitriol, 2 ozs. of Prussiate, 2 spoonfuls of Nitrate of Tin and Boil 40 minutes. Wash and Cotton Dye with Safflower according to shade required, the same as No. 608. No. 679. 10 Pieces, COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. SKY BLUE & PINK, ANOTHER WAY. Worsted Dye in all respects the same as No. 076. And Cotton Dye by first sumacing the pieces with 2 lbs. of Sumac to the piece, run the pieces in the Sumac in the troughs 6 ends, then run G ends in Muriate of Tin, at 4° Twaddel in another trough, then wash and dye with Peachwood Liquor according to shade, either in the troughs, or at the padding machine, or in a cistern of cold water. A good full Pink will require about 1 ^ lb. of Peachwood to a piece, liighter or darker shades may be dyed by adding more or less Peachwood according to the shade. No. 680. 10 Pieces, COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. BLUES & CRIMSONS OF DIFFERENT SORTS. Dye the Worsted first a good Sky or Saxon Blue ; or Royal Blue, if a very dark and bright blue is required, wash well and Cotton Dye same as No. 676, only use more Peachwood Liquor. When a very full shade of Crimson is required, the Pieces should be sumaced as before, and then passed tbrougli Nitrate of Lon a few ends in another trough or cistern ; use about two quarts of Nitrate of Iron for the 10 Pieces. Then run in the Peachwood Liquor, after running them 8 ends take up and add 2 quarts of good Muriate of Tin to raise tlie Peacliwood and brighten the colour. By this mode the fullest shades of Crimson may be dyed. It is tlie Nitrate of Iron that gives it the more fulness, and causes it to be darker with the I same quantity of Peachwood. DAMASK AND CAMLET DYEING. 182 No. 681. 10 Pieces, COTTQN & WORSTED DAMASKS. GREEN AND CRIMSONS. First dye Green according to shade, same as No. 675, and Cotton dye in all respects the same as No. 680. The shade of colour may be varied by dyeing the Worsted lighter or darker, and the same with respect to the Cotton. It is impossible to give an estimate of the various shades produced by this variation. No. 682. 10 Pieces, COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. DARK BLUE & ORANGE. Worsted Dye first in a clean vessel with 1 quart of good Chcmic, 20 lbs. of Crystals and 2 quarts of Oil of Vitriol. Boil 1 hour, wash, and Cotton Dye by first Sumacing the Pieces, and Spiriting them the same as No. 679. Then dye the Cotton with 3 lbs. of Peachwood and 2 lbs. of Quercitron Bark to the Piece. This will very much imitate the Royal Blue and Orange, but will not be so bright a colour. No. 683. 10 Pieces, WORSTED & COTTON DAMASKS. DARK BLUE & LIGHT ORANGE. ANOTHEE METHOD. First Worsted Dye in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Crystals, 2 quarts of Oil of Vitriol, 1 quart of Ohemic and 2 lbs. of Cudbear. Wash well, and Cotton Dye with strong Anotta Liquor pre- viously spent with Pearlash. The Anotta Orange will affect the Worsted more than the Peachwood Orange. It will tend to flatten it, and the reason that the Cudbear is given in Worsted Dyeing is that it may keep up the bloomy appearance. Various shades may be dyed upon Cotton from Anotta, varying from a Light Straw colour to a full Orange ; when the colour is wanted ver^ full, the Pieces should be passed through a weak decoction of Oil of Vitriol after being run in the Anotta. 183 DAMASK AND CAMLET DYEING. No. 684. 10 Pwces, COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. RUBY & BLUE. First Worsted Dye in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Cudbear j boil 20 minutes. Clean and Cotton Dye by running the Pieces in the Copperas vat, one, two, or three ends, according to the shade of Blue required ; then run the Pieces in a weak decoction of Oil of Vitriol, at about 100° Fahrenheit to clear the Worsted and brighten the Cotton. No. 685. 10 Pieces, COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. YELLOW & BLUE. First Cotton Dye in the Copperas vat, clean and then Worsted dyo in a clean vessel with 10 pints of Nitrate of Tin, 10 lbs. of Quercitron Bark, 6 lbs. of White Argol, 4 lbs. of Alum and boil 20 minutes. No. 686. 10 Pieces, COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. ORANGE & BLUE. Cotton dye Blue first in the Copperas vat according to the shade required. Then wash and Worsted dye in a clean vessel with 6 lbs. of White Argol, 1^ lb. of Dry Cochineal, 10 lbs. of Young Fustic, 10 pints of Spirits ai^d boil 40 minutes. No. 687. 10 Pieces, COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. SCARLET & COMMON BLUE. First Worsted Dye a good Scarlet same as No. 668, and Cotton dye by passing a few ends through the Copperas vat, and then clear in a vessel of warm water with 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol in it. This colour is not so bright as the Scarlet and Royal Blue, or what is called Coffee and Blue. I shall next insert two methods of dyeing Coffee and Royal Blue for the information of those who have often had these colours uneven and dead from a want of a proper method of dyeing them. DAMASK AND CAMLET DYEING. 184 No. 688. 10 Pieces, COTTON & WORSTED DAMASKS. COFFEE BROWN & ROYAL BLUE. The Worsted must be first dyed a good bright Scarlet the same in evei’y respect as No. 668. Then Cotton dye by passing through strong Nitrate of Iron in the troughs at 4° Twaddel, to which add 2 lbs. of Tin Crystals, In this run 4 ends. In another trough with 2 quarts of Ammonia run 8 ends after the Iron, and repeat in each trough two or three times until a Buff appearance is seen ; then wash well. To another trough, or at the Padding Machine add 10 lbs. of Prussiate of Potash previously dissolved ; in ,this run 6 ends, and then add 1 pint of Oil of Vitriol and give the Pieces 6 ends more. Wash off for the Drying Machine. Then you have a good full Royal Blue upon the Cotton, This will produce a good bright colour, and if a lighter shade is required use less Prussiate. Another mode of dyeing the colour is to dye the Cotton Buff. Then dye the Worsted the same as dyeing Royal Blue with Blue Spirits and Prussiate. But the best mode is by first running the Pieces in Sumac and a little Logwood together, then going through all the process as stated in the first mode. In this latter method the Cotton gets a quantity of Logwood upon it which is risen to a sort of Claret when it enters the Nitrate of Iron and the Crystals of Tin, the Iron working up the darkness of the Logwood and the Crystals of Tin producing the bloom. It is by this means that this is so much brighter and more bloomy than the other with the same quantity of Prussiate. I think I have given as many shades in single and two coloured Damasks as are generally dyed, and from these any Dyer may, by varying the quantities, obtain a great variety more of two colours. But I will here attach a dyed pattern to shew this particular double colour, and I may say that the Receipt for this colour alone is worth double the price of the book to any man who is not acquainted with this mode of dyeing it. 185 CAMLET DYEING. CAMLET DYEING- IS- THE FOLLOWING PIECES ARE ALL FOUB-QUAKTEKS. No. 689. 10 Pieces, LONG CAMLETS. SCAELET. ' Dye at boiling beat in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Lac. 10 lbs. of Young Fustic, 15 lbs of Brown or White Tartar and 15 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 11 hour, after which they must be well cleaned. No. 690. 10 Pieces, LIGHT OKANGE. Dye at boiling heat in a clean vessel with 15 lbs. of Brown Tartar, 15 lbs. of Young Fustic, 15 quarts of Nitrate of Tin and 4 ozs. of Cochineal. Boil 1 hour, after which, clean weU and dry off. No. 691. 10 Pieces, FULL OEANGE. Dye at boiling heat in a clean vessel with 15 lbs. of Young Fustic, 15 lbs of Brown Tartar or White Argol, 1 lb. of Cochineal and 15 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1 hour, after which clean and dry off. No. 692. 10 Pieces, LIGHT YELLOW. Dye, at boihng heat, with 10 lbs. of Quercitron Bark. 10 quarts of Nitrate of Tin and 12 lbs. of Brown Tartar. Boil 1 hour and then clean and dry off. No. 693. 10 Pieces, FULL YELLOW. Dye at boiling heat in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Young Fusiic, 15 quarts of Nitrate of Tin and 15 lbs. ol Brown Tartar. Boil 1 hour, and then clean and dry off. CAMLET DYEING. 18G No. 694. i !i 10 Pieces, GRAIN CRIMSON. |: I Dye iu a clean vessel with 5 lbs. of Paste Cochineal, 10 lbs. of Dry ' Cochineal, 16 lbs of Brown Tartar and 15 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. ! Boil 1 hour, and then wash off. If fuller shades are wanted add more Cochineal ; if Bluer .shades are required add more Paste Cochineal and the same quantity of other ingredients. Paste Cochineal is made by adding 1 pint of double Ammonia to each lb. of Dry Cochineal and making a Paste of it. ; I No. 095. I 10 Pieces, ASH DRAB. Dye at boiling heat in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Super Avgol, 2 quarts of Sulphuric Acid, 1 lb. of Mull Madder, 1 lb of Paste Cud- bear and f gill of Liquid Extract. Boil 1 hour, and then clean and wash off. Lighter or darker shades may be dyed by adding more or less Extract; when a Redder shade is required, add a little more Paste Cudbear. Liquid Extract is Sulphate of Indigo, or Cheniic weakened down with Oil of Vitriol. No. 696. 10 Pieces, SILVER DRAB. Dye in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Super Argol, 2 quarts of Sulphuric Acid, | lb. of Paste Cudbear and 1 tot of Liquid Extract. Boil 1 hour, and then wash oft'. A tot is a quarter of a pint. No. 697. 10 Pieces, FAWN DRAB. | Dye in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Super Argol, 2 quarts of 1 Sulphuric Acid, 8 ozs. of Paste Cudbear, 6 Spoonfuls of Liquid Extract and 2 lbs. of Mull Madder. Boil 1 hour. If darker shades are required, add more Taquid Extract. No. 698. 10 Pieces, SAXON BLUE. Dye at boiling heat in a clean %’essel with 20 lbs. of Crystals, 2 quarts of Sulphuric Acid, 3 gills of Liquid Extract, 4 ozs. of Prussiate of Potash and 1 tot of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1 hour, and then clean and d’-y off Crystals are Glanbersalts. 187 CAMLET DYEING. i No. 69‘J. 10 Pieces, MAROON. Dye in a clean vessel at boiling heat with 20 lbs. of Cudbear, 10 lbs. of Camwood and 1 gill of Sulphuric Acid. Boil 1 hour. For Fuller and Redder shades add more Camwood and a little more Sulphuric Acid. This colour might be dyed by first being boiled and finished in the same way as Mock Maroon, or Mock Crimson, but is not so I permanent as by this Receipt. No. 700. 10 Pieces, LIGHT BROWN. 1 Dye at boiling heat with 40 lbs. of Camwood, 1 pint of Chemic, 10 lbs. of Turmeric, 3 pints of Sulphuric Acid and 20 lbs. of Super Argol. Boil 2 hours. No. 701. 10 Pieces, DARK BROWN. Dye with 60 lbs. of Camwood, 3 pints of Chemic, 20 lbs. of Super Argol, 3 pints of Sulphuric Acid and 10 lbs. of Turmeric. Boil 2 hours. Less Camwood will dye the same shade when the vessel is seasoned by dyeing a similar colour before it. Camwood requires to I i be well boiled to get the strength out -of it, and also requires a strong i Acid to spend it. Ij i I I' No. 702. I I 10 Pieces, CLARET BROWN. First boil 40 minutes in a clean vessel with 2 lbs. of Chrome, then wash and finish in another vessel with 8 ozs. of Alum, 8 ozs. of Log- I wood, 20 lbs of Fustic and 30 lbs. of Peachwood. Boil 1 hour in the I finishing, then clean and dry off. I Lighter or darker shades may be dyed by adding or diminishing j the quantity of Logwood according to the shade required. A very small quantity of Logwood will make a great difference in the shade, i By adding 1 oz. more to each Piece, it will be much darker. j The same shade of colour may be dyed with Camwood, Chemic and Acid, but it is more expensive, and sometimes the fabric is made tender by this process. CAMLET DYEING. 188 No. 703. 10 Pieces, IIGHT PUEPLE. Boil 8 lionrs in a clean vessel with 50 lbs. of Alum, 10 lbs. of Kcd Argol and 10 lbs of Logwood; wash well and finish in a clean vessel with 10 lbs of Cudbear and 5 quarts of Ammonia. Clean and dry off. No. 704. 10 Pieces, MIDDLE PURPLE. Boil 3 hours in a clean vessel with 50 lbs. of Alum, 10 lbs. of Argol, and 20 lbs. of Logwood. Clean well and finish in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Cudbear and 6 quarts of Ammonia. If a Bluer shade of Purple is required add more Ammonia in the finishing, and when a Red shade is required add no Ammonia in the finishing. No. 705. 10 Pieces, DARK PURPLE. This colour is dyed in all respects the same as the last, but must have more Logwood in the boiling and a httle more Ammonia in the finishing in order to raise the Logwood. No. 706. 10 Pieces, ANOTHER MODE OF DYEING PURPLES. Boil 40 minutes with 2 lbs. of Chrome in a clean vessel, then wash well and finish in another vessel of clean water with 10 lbs. of Cud- bear and 10 lbs. of Logwood. Clean and dry off. Any shade of Purple may be dyed in this manner, using more Logwood for darker, and less for lighter shades. No. 707. 10 Pieces, BLUE BLACK. Boil 40 minutes in a clean vessel with 2 lbs. of Chrome and 2 lbs. of Argol. Finish in another vessel with 40 lbs. of Logwood. Boil 40 minutes. i No. 708. 10 Pieces, FULL BLACK. Boil 40 minutes in a clean vessel with 3 lbs. of Chrome and 2 lbs. of Argol. Finish in another vesael with 60 lbs. of Logwood and 10 lbs. of Fustic. If not dark enough, add a few pounds more Logwood. 189 CAMLET DYEING. No. 709. 10 Pieces, BOYAL BLUE. In a clean vessel of water add 15 lbs. of Prussiate of Potash and 15 quarts of Boyal Blue Spirits, heat up to 100° ; enter the Pieces and , turn them half an hour; take them on to the wench and heat the ' Liquor up to 140°, then put the Pieces into the Liquor again and turn I them half an hour more. Again tahe them on to the wench, then heat i the Liquor up to 180° and add 2 quarts of Finishing Spirits. Put I the Pieces down again and turn half an hour more. After which, take them out of the vessel, cool them over, heat the Liquor up to the I boiling point and add 3 quarts of Finishing Spirits ; enter the Pieces again, boil half an hour and then take out. The Pieces will then be a good Light Boyal Blue. If a darker shade is required add 2 quarts more Finishing Spirits | and 1, 2, or 3 lbs., or more or less Logwood according to the shade of darkness required ; enter the Pieces again and boil them half an hour more. Then take them out, cool them over, and clean off for the drying Machine. The Logwood wiU produce a bloomy appearance and make the colour darker. No. 710. 10 Pieces, GBEEN. Dye in a clean vessel with 40 lbs. of Alum, 15 lbs. of White Argol, 40 lbs. of Chipped Fustic and 1 pint of Chemic. Boil 1| hour. No. 711. 10 Pieces, BOTTLE GBEEN. Dye in a clean vessel with 40 lbs. of Alum, 15 lbs. of White Argol, 50 lbs. of Old Fustic, 2 or 3 lbs. of Logwood and 3 quarts of Chemic. Boil li hour. LASTING DYEING. 190 LASTING DYEING. KsK’tHE following pieces ABE ALL THREE-QUAKTEK8. No. 712. 20 Pieces, LIGHT YELLOW. Dye at boiling heat with 10 lbs. Quercitron Bark, 10 quarts of Nitrate of Tin, and 12 lbs. of Brown Tartar. Boil 1 hour, and then clean and di’y off. No. 718. 20 Pieces, PULL YELLOW. Dye at boiling heat in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Young Fustic, 15 quarts of Nitrate of Tin and 15 lbs. of Brown Tartar. Boil 1 hour and then clean and dry off. No. 714. 20 Pieces, SILVER DRAB. Dye in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Super Argol, 2 quarts of Sul- phuric Acid, i lb. of Paste Cudbear and 1 tot of Liquid Extract. Boil 1 hour and then wash off. No. 716. 20 Pieces, ASH DRAB. Dye at boiling heat in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Super Argol, 2 quarts of Sulphuric Acid, 1 lb. of Mull Madder, 1 lb. of Paste Cudbear and f of a gill of Liquid Extract. Boil 1 hour and then clean and wash off. Lighter or darker shades may be dyed by adding more or less Extract; when a redder shade is required add a little more Paste Cudbear. No. 716. 20 Pieces, FAWN DRAB. Dye in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Super Argol, 2 quarts of Sul- phuric Acid, 8 ozs. of Paste Cudbear, 6 spoonfuls of Liquid Extract, and 2 ibs. of Mull Madder. Boil 1 hour. If darker shades are required add more Liquid Extract. i 191 LASTING DYEING. No. 717. 20 Pieces, SAXON BLUE. Dye at boiling beat in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Ciystals, 2 quarts of Sulphuric Acid, 3 gills of Liquid Extract, 4 ozs. of Prussiate of Potash and 1 tot of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1 hour,, and then clean and dry off. No. 718. 20 Pieces, GRAIN CRIMSON. Dye in a clean vessel with 5 lbs. of Paste Cochineal, 10 lbs. of Dry Cochineal, 15 lbs. of Brown Tartar and 15 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1 hour, and then wash off. If fuller shades are wanted add more Cochineal, if Bluer shades are required add more Paste Cochineal and the same quantity of other ingredients. No. 719. 20 Pieces, SCARLET. Dye at boiling heat in a clean vessel with 20 lbs. of Lac, 10 lbs. of Young Fustic, 15 lbs. of Brown or White Tartar and 15 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1 i hour, after which they must be well cleaned. No. 720. 20 Pieces, LIGHT ORANGE. Dye at boiling heat in a clean vessel with 15 lbs. of Brown Tartar, 16 lbs. of Young Fustic, 15 quarts of Nitrate of Tin and 4 ozs. of Cochineal. Boil 1 hour, after which clean well and dry off. No. 721. 20 Pieces, FULL ORANGE. Dye at boiling heat in a clean vessel with 16 lbs. of Young Fustic, 16 lbs. of Brown Tartar or White Argol, 1 lb. of Cochineal and 16 quarts of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1 hour, after which clean and dry off. I A I \- I r i i LASTING DYEING. 192 No. 722. 20 Pieces, MAROON. Dye in a clean vessel at boiling heat with 20 lbs. of Cudbear, 10 lbs. of Camwood and 1 gill of tJulphuric Acid. Boil 1 hour. For Fuller and Redder shades add more Camwood and a little more Sulphuric Acid. This colour may be dyed by first being boiled and finished in the same way as Mock Maroon or Mock Crimson, but it is not so perma- nent as by this Receipt. No. 723. 20 Pieces, LIGHT BROWN. Dye at boiling heat with 40 lbs. of Camwood, 1 pint of Chemic, 10 lbs. of Turmeric, 3 pints of Sulphuric Acid and 20 lbs. of Super Argol. Boil 2 hours. No. 724. 20 Pieces, GREEN. Dye in a clean vessel with 40 lbs. of Alum, 15 lbs. of White Argol, 40 lbs. of Chipped Fustic, 2 pints of Chemic and Boil 1 1 hour. No. 725. 20 Pieces, BOTTLE GREEN. Dye in a clean vessel with 40 lbs. of Alum, 15 lbs. of White Argol, 50 lbs. of Old Fustic, 2 or 8 lbs. of Logwood and 8 quarts of Chemic. Boil 1^ hours. No. 726. 20 Pieces, BLUE BLACK. Boil 40 minutes in a clean vessel with 2 lbs. of Chrome and 2 lbs. of Argol. Finish in another vessel with 40 lbs. of Logwood. Boil 40 minutes. No. 727. 20 Pieces, FULL BLACK. Boil 40 minutes in a clean vessel with 2 lbs. of Chrome and 2 lbs. of Argol. Finish in another vessel with 50 lbs. of Logwood and 10 lbs. of Fustic. If not dark enough add a few lbs. more Logwood, LASTING DYEING. I, — =— 193 No. 728. 20 Pieces, CLARET BROWN. First boil 40 minutes in a clean vessel with 2 lbs. of Chrome, then wash and finish in another vessel with 8 ozs. of Alum, 8 ozs. of Log- wood, 20 lbs. of Fustic and 80 lbs. of Peachwood. Boil 1 hour in the finishing, then clean and dry off. Lighter or darker shades may be dyed by adding or diminishing the quantity of Logwood, according to the shade required. A very small quantity of Logwood will make a great difference in the shade. By adding 1 oz, more to each Piece it will be much darker. The same shade of colour may be dyed with Camwood, Chemic, and Acid, but it is more expensive, and sometimes the fabric is made tender by this process. No. 729. 20 Pieces, DARK BROWN. Dye with 60 lbs. of Camwood, 8 pints of Chemic, 20 lbs. of Super Argol, 3 pints of Sulphuric Acid and 10 lbs. of Turmeric. Bod 2 hours. Less Camwood will dye the same shade when the vessel is seasoned by dyeing a similiar colour before it. Camwood requires to be well boiled to get the strength out of it, and also requires a strong Acid. No. 730. 20 Pieces, LIGHT PURPLE. Boil 3 hours in a clean vessel with 50 lbs. of Alum, 10 lbs. of Red Argol, 10 lbs. of Logwood. Wash well, and finish in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Cudbear and 5 quarts of Ammonia. Clean and dry off. No. 731. 20 Pieces, MIDDLE PURPLE. Boil 3 hours in a clean vessel with 50 lbs. of Alum, 10 lbs. of Argol, and 20 lbs. of Logwood. Clean weU, and finish in a clean vessel with 10 lbs. of Cudbear and 6 quarts of Ammonia. If a Bluer shade is required add more Ammonia in the finishing, and when a Red shade is required add no Ammonia in the finishing. LASTING DYEING. 194 I No. 732. 20 Pieces, DAEK PURPLE. This colour is dyed in all respects the same as the last, but must have more Logwood in the boiling, and a little more Ammonia in the finishing in order to raise the Logwood. No. 733. 20 Pieces, ROYAL BLUE. In a clean vessel of water add 15 lbs. of Prussiate of Potash and 15 quarts of Royal Blue Spirits, heat up to 100°, enter the Pieces and turn them half an hour; take them on to the wench and heat the Liquor up to 140® and put the Pieces into the Liquor again, then turn them half an hour more. Again take them on to the wench, then heat the Liquor up to 180® and add 2 quarts of Finishing Spirits. Put the Pieces down again and turn half an hour more. After which, take them out of the vessel, cool them over, heat the Liquor up to the boiling point and add 3 quarts of Finishing Spirits ; enter the Pieces again, boil half an hour, then take them out. The Pieces will then be a good hght Royal Blue. If a darker shade is required add 2 quarts more Finishing Spirits, and 1. 2, or 3 lbs. or more or less of Logwood, according to the shade of darkness required; enter the Pieces again, and boil them half an hour more. Then take them out, cool them over, and clean off for the drying machine. The Logwood wiU produce a bloomy appearance and make the coloiu’ darker. No. 734. 20 Pieces, ANOTHER MODE OF DYEING PURPLES. Boil 40 minutes with 2 lbs. of Chrome in a clean vessel, then wash well, and finish in another vessel of clean water with 10 lbs. of Cud- bear and 10 lb.>. of Logwood; clean and dry off. Ajiy shade of Purple may be dyed in this manner, using more Logwood for darker and less for hghter shades. 195 WOOLLEN SHAWL DYEING. WOOLLEN SHAWL DYEING. No. 735. 100 WOOLLEN SHAWLS. ROYAL BLUE. Dissolve 12 lbs. of Prussiate and put it into a vessel •with 2 quarts of Ammonia ; run the Shawls 6 ends cold ; take up and add 12 quarts of Blue spirits, and run 6 ends more cold; take up again, and heat up to 120°; then run 6 ends more; take up again and heat up to 180°; then run 6 ends more, take them out, cool them over, add 3 pints of Finishing Spirits and heat rip to the boiling point; enter again and boil haK an hour; take them out. cool over and add 3 pints more Finishing Spirits ; enter again, boil half an hour and 1 then clean off. I No. 736. 70 SHAWLS. BLOOMY ROYAL BLUE. Dissolve 12 lbs. of Prussiate. which put into a cistern of cold water with 11^ lb. of Logwood and 9 quarts of Blue Spirits. Run 6 ends cold, then take them up and add 3 quarts more of Blue Spirits ; put down again, put the steam on with the shawls in the vessel, heat up to the boiling point and boil 20 minutes ; then take out, cool over, add 3 quarts of Finishing Spirits, boil up well before entering them, enter, boil 20 minutes more, and then clean off. This is a good mode of dyeing Shawls Royal blue. I No. 737. I 50 SHAWLS. LIGHT ROSE. Dye with 2^ lbs. of Alum, 5 lbs. of White Tartar, 1 quarts of Nitrate | of Tin, 12 ozs. of Dry Cochineal. ! Give them half the Cochineal at the beginning, and the remain- ! 1 der when they have boiled half an hour, after which boil half an hour | more. |, No. 738. I 60 SHAWLS. FULL ROSE. ! ' I Dye with 5 lbs. of Tartar, 2J lbs. of Alum, 4 quarts of Spirits, 1 J lb. ! of Dry Cochineal. Boil 40 minutes. j Less Spirits and Acid will do when shades of the same sort have been dyed before in the same vessel. | WOOLLEN SHAWL DYEING. 19G No. 739. 50 SHAWLS. LIGHT SALMON. Dye watli 4 lbs. of Tartar, 2 ozs. of Young Fustic, 4 ozs. of Cochineal and 3 quarts of Spirits. Boil 40 minutes. No. 740. 30 SHAWLS. FULL SALMON. Dye with 3 lbs. of Tartar, 8 ozs. of Cochineal, 4 ozs. of Young Fustic and 3 pints of Spirits. Boil 40 minutes. No. 741. 1 40 SHAWLS. MELON. || Dye with 8 ozs. of Cochineal, 3 lbs. of Tartar, and 4 pints of Spirits. ! ! Boil 40 minutes. j No. 742. 40 SHAWLS. YELLOW. Dye with 3 lbs. of Tartar, 1 lb. of Alum, 3 lbs. of Quercitron Bark and 4 pints of Spirits. Boil 20 minutes. No. 743. 40 SHAWLS. ORANGE. Dye with 4 lbs. of Tartar, 8 ozs. of Cochineal, 4 lbs. of Young Fustic and 4 pints of Spirits. Boil half an hour. No. 744. 40 SHAWLS. YELLOW BUFF. Dye with 3 lbs. of Tartar, 5 pints of Spirits, 1 oz. of Cochineal and 2 ozs. of Young Fustic. Boil half an hour. No. 745. 40 SHAWLS. LIGHT BUFF. Dye with 2 ozs. of Cochineal, 3 ozs. of Young Fustic, 2 lbs. of Tartar and 3 pints of Spirits. Boil half an hour. 197 WOOLLEN SHAWL DYEING. No. 746. 40 SHAWLS. FULL BUFF. Dye with 4 ozs. of Younp Fustic, 3 lbs. of Tartar, 4 ozs. of Cochineal and 3 pints of Spirits. Boil half an hour. No. 747. 40 SHAWLS. SCARLET. Dye with 8 lbs. of good Lac, 4 lbs. of Tartar, 4 lbs. of Young Fustic, 6 pints of Nitrate of Tin. Boil 1 hour. I No. 748. I 40 SHAWLS. LAVENDER. ! Dye with 3 lbs. of Tartar, 8 ozs. of Cudbear and 1 gill of Liquid I Extract. Boil half an hour. No. 749. 40 SHAWLS. SKY BLUE. Dye with 10 lbs. of Common Crystals, 1 quart of Oil of Vitriol and 1 gill of Liquid Extract. Boil half an hour. ART OF PADDING. 198 ART OF PADDING. TO MAKE THE STANDARD COLOURS, AND HOW TO MIX THEM FOR VARIOUS SHADES. Padding is only another mode of Dyeing the same colour. It is i done by a Machine, rather similar to the Crabbing Machine. The i Standard Colours are made according to the annexed Receipts. In j Padding any colour, the Liquor is put into a Trough, above which are two Rollers, which revolve against each other with great pressure ; they are covered either with Woollen or Cotton, and the lower Roller revolves in the Dyeing Liquid. The Pieces are put under the Trolly or small Roller in the Trough and passed through the Machine. Some light colours are dyed sufficiently by passing them only once through the Machine ; while darker colours require to be passed through two or three times, adding more Dye Liquor according to shade. By means of Padding, Cotton and Worsted may be dyed nearly the same colour at the same time, but colours produced by Padding are not so permanent as those obtained by the ordinary mode of dyeing. A more permanent colour by Padding may bo got by I dyeing the Worsted first a little hghter than the shade required, and then by Cotton Dyeing by passing through the Padding Machine. The Pieces after having been Padded are taken to the Drying Machine, and dried off the rolls, or passed slowly through a hot stove. Any person not acquainted with Padding may soon acquire the Art, and produce equally as good colours as any person who has been practising for some time, by adopting the following Receipts, which show how to make the Standard Colours, and how they are mixed. It is difficult, however, to convey to any person not acquainted with matching, the nicety of bringing up the particular hue requh-ed. It can be obtained only by practice and experience. N.B. — Though there are many dift’erent colours or tints in the works of nature, and also in objects produced by art, yet all the colours that we see, or can imagine, are formed of only three colours, called the primary colours, viz. red, yellow, and blue. All other colours are mixed in different ways from these, and are denominated compound colours. Hence Green is a mixture of yellow and blue ; and the shade may be varied by taking more of the one and less of the other. Orange is a mixture of yellow and red ; purple a mixture of blue and red, and violet is obtained by the addition of more blue to the mixture. Brown, drab, grey, hlac, and other colours or tints are also formed by similarly mixing the primary colours. White is per- fect lightness, or the absence of all colour, and black is perfect dark- ness. White and black, strictly speaking, are not colours, though they are seen both in nature and art. 199 ART OF PADDING. RECEIPTS FOR PADDING. No. 750. ESTAEIAZER STANDARD. 4i gallons of water, 1 gaUon of Brown Standard, 1 gallon of Red Liquor, 1 quart of Iron Liquor, 24° Twaddel, 2 quarts of Logwood Liquor, 8° Twaddel, 1 pint of Bark Liquor 8° Twaddel. To pad this colour give Water according to shade. No. 751. RED BROWN STANDARD. 8 gallons of Sapan Liquor, 8° Twaddel; 8 gallons of Bark Liquor, 12° Twaddel; 8 gallons of Fustic Liquor, 8° Twaddel; 24 lbs. of Alum, 6 lbs. of Sugar of Lead ; then dissolve together and when settled use the clear Liquor only ; dissolve 6 lbs. of Verdigris in 2 gallons of water and 4 gallons of Purple Standard. Mix together. As this grows better by keeping it should be prepared three or four weeks before it is used. No. 752. DARK PURPLE STANDARD. 4 gallons of Red Liquor and 8 lbs. of Logwood, heat up to 120° ; add lb. of Oxalic Acid. Let it settle 24 hours, and use the clear liquor only. No. 753. DRAB STANDARD. 2 quarts of Bark Liquor, 10° Twaddel ; 2 quarts of Iron Liquor, 24° Twaddel ; 2 gallons of Water, and 1 pint ot Gall Liquor, 10° Twaddel. No. 754 DRAB STANDARD. 3 quarts of Bark Liquor, 10° Twaddel ; 1 noggin of Acetic Acid, 1 noggin of Carbonate of Iron. To 1 gallon of this Standard add water according to shade. No. 755. GREY, OR QUAKER DRAB STANDARD. 1 lb. of Copperas, dissolve in 8 quarts of hot water; 2 quarts of Gall Liquor, 4° Twaddel ; and 1 gill of Sulphate of Indigo, or Chemic. ART OF PADDING. 200 No. 756. SLATE STANDARD. i lb. of Copperas, 5 quarts of hot water, 1 gill of Chemic, 1 pint of Gall Liquor, 4° Twaddel ; ami 1 quart of Iron Liquor. No. 757. DOVE STANDARD, OLD WAY. . 1 gallon of Purple Standard, 1 pint of Extract of Indigo, 1 pint of Prussiate Liquor, at 2 lbs. per gallon of water,* 1, 2, or 3 gallons of water to 1 of the Standard, as the shade may require. No. 758. DARK DOVE STANDARD, NEW WAY. 4 pints of Gall Liquor, 5“ Twaddel ; ^ lb. of Copperas, 1 pint of Purple Standard, 1 noggin of Extract of Indigo, and 1 noggin of Prussiate Liquor,* same as No. 757. No. 759. LIGHT DOVE STANDARD. 1 gallon of Puiqde Standard, 1 gallon of Water, 5 gills of Extract of Indigo, and 3 gills of Prussiate Liquor. No. 760. FAWN DRAB STANDARD. 3 lb. of Madder and 4 gallons of Water, boil 10 minutes; add ^ lb. of j Alum and 5 gills of Iron Liquor. No. 761. ! LAVENDER STANDARD. 10 gallons of hot Water, i lb. of Prussiate, 7 quarts of Purple Stan- dard, and 4 gills of Extract of Indigo. No. 762. I SUI,PIIATE OF INDIGO. | To make Sulphate of Indigo or Chemic dissolve l^lb. of Ground Spanish ! Indigo in 6 lbs. of Sulphuric Acid or Oil of Vitriol. Let it stand 24 , hours in a warm bath, then add 3 gallons of boiling Water and 1 lb. !' of White Sugar of Lead, and strain tlurough flannel. ! * For the Prussiate Liquor dissolve 2 lbs. of Prussiate in 1 gallon of hot Water ; and for the Extract of Indigo mix 1 quart of Sulphate of Indigo with 1 gallon of Water. 201 ART OF PADDING. No. 768. I BLUE BTANDAED. ! 4 quarts of hot Water, { lb. of Oxalic Acid, 1 pint of Prussiate Liquor, ! and 1 pint of Extract. When bloom is wanted add a little Bloom j Pink Standard. I No. 764. j BLOOM PINK STANDAKD. 1 lb. of Cochineal and 2 lbs. of Spirits of Ammonia, mix and let them stand in a warm place 24 hours, and then add 2 gallons of Water ; boil down to 1 gallon, then add 12 ozs. of Alum, 4 lb. of Oxalic Acid, and ^ lb. of Tin Crystals. No. 765. ROYAL BLUE STANDARD. 8 gallons of warm Water, 8 lbs. of Prussiate of Potash, 6 lbs. of Tartaric Acid, 6 quarts of Prussiate of Tin, and 1 gill of Blue Spirits. This will do either for padding or printing. No. 766. PRUSSIATE OF TIN. To make Prussiate of Tin dissolve 4 lbs. of Prussiate of Potash in 6 gallons of warm Water; in another vessel dissolve 5 lbs. of Tin Crystals in 6 gallons of Water, and mix both Liquors together; then pour cold Water into the admixture, when the Prussiate will be pre- cipitated, forming a pulp at the bottom of the vessel. Pour cold water upon it till all the Acid be washed off. The result will be 2 gallons of pulp, which will be real Prussiate of Tin. No. 767. CLARET STANDARD. 5 gallons of Sapan Liquor, 8° Twaddel ; 4 gallons of Logwood Liquor, 8o Twaddel ; li lb. of Salammoniac. Mix well and let them stand 24 hours. No. 768. TO PAD CLARET. Take 8 gallons of Claret Standard, 4 gallons of Red Liquor, 3 pints of Extract of Indigo, 3 pints of Nitrate of Copper, and 3 lbs. of Com- mon Salt. ART OF PADDING. 202 No. 769. TO PAD BLACK. 1 gallon of Logwood Liquor, 8“ Twaddel ; 1 pint of Pyroligneous Acid, 4° Twaddel ; ^ noggin of Acetate of Copper, 1 noggin of Nitrate of Iron, 1 noggin of Muriate of Iron, and 1 noggin of Extract of Indigo. No. 770. TO MAKE ACETATE OF COPPER. Dissolve 4 lbs. of Sulphate of Copper or Blue Vitriol, and 2 lbs. of Sugar of Lead in 1 gallon of boiling Water. No. 771. STONE DRAB STANDARD. Dissolve in 4 gallons of hot Water 1 lb. of Copperas, add 4 pints of Gall Liquor, 4“ Twaddel ; 4 pints of Bark Liquor, 2° Twaddel ; 1 pint of Nitrate of Iron, 1 noggin of Sulphate of Indigo or Chomic, and add Water according to shade required. No. 772. ORANGE STANDARD. 4 gallons of Water, 6 lbs. of Anotta, i lb. of Pearlash, and ^ lb. of Soft Soap. Boil 10 minutes and let it settle 12 hours. No. 773. LIGHT OLIVE STANDARD. 1 quart of Bark Liquor, 10° Twaddel ; 1 quart of Fustic Liquor, 8° Twaddel ; 1 quart of Red Liquor, 1 quart of Purple Standard, and 1 quart of Logwood Liquor, 8° Twaddel, No. 774. TO PAD DARK SHADES OF OLIVE. Use 2 quarts of Bark Liquor, 10° Twaddel; 12 quarts of Fustic Liquor, 12° Twaddel; 1 lb. of Alum, 2 quarts of Purple Standard, and Logwood Liquor according to shade. No. 775. LILAC. Take 2 quarts of Pink Standard and 4 quarts of Purple Standard. 203 ART OF PADDING. No. 776. SLATE STANDAKD. I 2 lbs. of Copperas, 2 gallons of hot Water, 2 quarts of Gall Liquor, 10“ Twaddel ; 2 quarts of Sulphate of Indigo, and add Water according I to shade. I No. 777. FIRST SHADE YELLOW STONE DRAB. 4 quarts of Bark Liquor, 2“ Twaddel, 4 gallons of Water, 1 quart of j Gall Liquor, and 2 quarts of Iron Liquor. i No. 778. SECOND SHADE STONE DRAB. 4 quarts of Bark Liquor, 2“ Twaddel ; 1 pint of Iron Liquor, ^ noggin of Sulphate of Indigo, and add Water according to shade. No. 779. THIRD SH.\DE. 1 quart of Bark Liquor, 2“ Twaddel ; 1 noggin of Iron Liquor, and 3 quarts of First Shade Standard. No. 780. CINNAMON STANDARD, 1 gallon of Water, 2 lbs. of Anotta, 1 lb. of Pearlash, boil together ; in another vessel boil 2 lbs. of Catechu, 1 gallon of Water, 1 lb. of Chrome, and 1 pint of Acetate of Copper. No. 781. TO PAD CINNAMON. Use 1 pint of Acetate of Copper and 1 gallon of Cinnamon Standard, Half out of each vessel as described in No. 780. No. 782. TO PAD ESTAIUAZER COLOUR. 2 gallons of Cinnamon Standard, 1 gallon of No. 777, Stone Standard; and 1 quart of Logwood Liquor, 8“ Twaddel. ART OF PADDING- . 204 No. 783. TO PAD SLATE COLOURS. Take 2 gallons of Slate Standard, No. 776 ; and 4 gallons of Water. Darker or lighter shades may be got by adding more or less of the Standard. No. 784. DARK GREEN STANDARD. 1 gallon of Persian Berry Liquor, 16° Twaddel ; 3 lbs. of Prussiate of Potash, 1 lb. of Oxalic Acid, 1 quart of Red Liquor, 3 gills of Extract of Indigo, 1 noggin of Muriate of Tin, and ^ noggin of Oil of Vitriol. No. 785. PALE GREEN. 2 quarts of Green Standard, No. 784; 1 pint of Persian Berry Liquor, and Water as required. No. 786. SKY BLUE STANDARD. Mix 10 lbs. of good Paste Extract with 1 pailful of water, dissolve every particle to prevent blotches when used ; fill the trough to a little above the trolly, then add 1 quart of this Standard for a Light Blue, and 1 gill of Ammonia, and boil while running the first end through ; if not dark enough run through again. Eor dark shades add more Extract and Ammonia. No. 787. LAVENDER STANDARD. Dissolve 20 lbs. of Alum and 10 lbs. of Sugar of Lead in 5 pails of Vvater, then take oft' the clear Liquor and heat up tol80», and then put into a bag 4 or 5 pailfuls of Logwood, and rinse it in this Liquor ; let it steep in it about 5 hours, and then draw out the bag. This is Lavender Bloom Standard. For the Blue Standard for Lavenders dissolve 3 lbs. of Tartaric Acid, 2 lbs. of Alum, and 14 lbs. of Good Extract, with 2 pailfuls of hot Water. For lighter or darker shades of Lavenders take more or less of the Blue Standard with Bloom Standard, according to shade re- quired. TO PAD TEN PIECES, LAVENDEB. i Take 1 pail of Bloom Standard and 2 quarts of Blue Standard, heat up to 180°, add 1 pint of Red Liquor, and then run 4 ends. 205 ART OF PADDING. No. 788. DRAB PREPARATION, OR ANOTHER MODE OF ! PADDING DRAB. i Take 3 pints of Fustic Liquor, 8° Twaddel ; and 1 pint of Muriate of Tin, run them 2 ends through the boiling Liquor at the Machine. This mode of padding Drabs is preferred by some parties. I No. 789. j TO PAD DIFFERENT SHADES OF DRAB. j Fill a little above the trolly with cold Water and put in a little Iron Liquor at full strength, a little Blue Standard, a little Lavender Bloom Standard, and a little Archil, all at full strength according to shade required. For Fawn shades add only a little Bloom, but for heavier shades add a little Iron Liquor as well; for Bluer shades of Drab add a little Blue Standard, and for very blooming shades add a little Archil with more Bloom Standard. With more or less of these ingredients properly mixed, any shade of Drab may be got without much difficulty, the Goods being previously prepared according to No. 788, it being the basis for all these ingredients. I i No. 790. i SKY BLUE. 1 Another mode of Padding: — Take 6 gallons of Water, I t noggin of j Nitrate of Iron, 90° Twaddel ; t noggin of Muriate of Tin, mix well, run 3 ends, then dissolve 4 ozs. of Tartaric Acid, and 4 ozs. of Yellow , Prussiate of Potash, in 6 gallons of Water, to which add a 4 noggin ; of Extract of Indigo, and put this into the trough, run 3 or 4 ends according to shade required, and then dry at the machine. I No. 791. i ROYAL BLUE. |i How to prepare Royal Blues : — Add 3 lbs. of Tin Crystals to 1 pint j of Oil of Vitriol ; in another vessel melt 4 lbs. of Chloride of Lime, add 1 gill of Oil of Vitriol with 8 gallons of Water, run 4 ends through Tin jireparation, 6° Twaddel ; then through the Chloride of Lime, 2“ Twaddel; then through a fresh Liquor ofNitratc of Iron, 12° Twaddel; then through Soda; 1^ lb. to the Piece; wash and run them in j strong Prussiate Liquor, with a little Oil of Vitriol in it, at the Pad- j ding Machine, after which they must be steamed. ! ! The steaming will raise the Cotton and the W’orsted from a flat Green to a good Blue. SILK WARP PRINTING. 206 SILK WARP, SKEIN, AND HANDKERCHIEF PRINTING. No. 792. BLACK. 3 Gallons of Logwood Liquor, 8° Twaddel, 3 lbs. of D. British Gum, 12 ozs. of Gum Dragon, 6 ozs. of Salammoniac, boil well. When half cold, add 1 pint of S. Copper Liquor. When cold, add 1 quart of Muriate of Iron and 3 gills of Nitrate of Iron. No. 793. SCLAKET. 1 gallon of Cochineal Liquor, 8° Twaddel, 1 lb. of Starch. At blood heat, add 3 ozs. of Oxalic Acid, 4 ozs. of Tin Crystals, 1 gill of Persian Berry Liquor, 8° Twaddel. No. 794. GEEEN. 1 gallon of French Berry Liquor, 8° Twaddel, 1 lb. of Alum, 1 lb. of Flour. When taken off the fh'e, add 1 quart of Extract of Indigo and 1 quart of Bed Liquor. No. 795. CLARET. 1 quart of Bronze Logwood, 1 quart of Bronze Peachwood, 1 quart of Red Liquor, lbs. of British Gum. When taken oft' the fire, add 1 quart of "V. Copper Liquor. No. 796. BROWN. 10 parts of Amber Colour, 4 parts of Ruby and 1 part of Black. 207 SILK WARP PRINTING. No. 797. DARK RED. 8 of Bronze Peachwood, 1 of Nitra-Muriate of Tin, add 2 of the above to 1 of Gum Water, then add 1 lb. of Alum per Gallon. No. 798. ORANGE. 3 lbs. of good Anotta, 1 lb. of Caustic Potass, 16° Twaddel. Boil until dissolved, add 1 of the above to 2 of Gum Water, and then add 2 ozs. of Alum per gallon. No. 799. AMBER. 1 gallon of Berry Liquor, 9° Twaddel, 1 oz. of Alum, 2^ lbs. of British Gum. When taken off the fire, add 8 ozs. of Tin Crystals. No. 800. PINK. 1 lb. of fine ground Cochineal, 1 lb. of strong Spirits of Ammonia. Mix and let them remain in a hot stove for at least 24 hours, then add 2 Gallons of Water, and boil the whole down to 2 gallons, then add 4 ozs. of Alum, 4 ozs. of Oxalic Acid and 4 ozs. of Tin Crystals. Thicken with Gum Senegal. No. 801. LIGHT PINK. 1 of the above to 3 of Gum Water. No. 802. PEACH. 20 of Ammoniacal Cochineal and 1 of Extract of Indigo. No. 803. LIGHT PEACH. 1 of the above to 8 of Gum Water. SILK WARP PRINTING. 208 No. 804. DARK PURPLE. 1 of Bronze Logwood, 1 of Red Liquor and 4 of Gum Water. No. 805. LIGHT PURPLE. 1 of Bronze Logwood, 5 of Red Liquor and 5 of Gum Water. No. 806. BLUE. 1 gallon of Red Liquor, 8 ozs. of Oxalic Acid, 4 ozs. of Tartaric Acid and 1 lb. of Paste Indigo. Thicken with Gum Senegal. No. 807. D.ARK BROWN. 26 quarts of Berry Liquor, 12° Twaddel, 10 quarts of Logwood Liquor, 12° Twaddel, 9 quarts of Sapan Liquor, 12° Twaddel, 5 lbs. of Sulphate of Copper, 10 lbs. of Alum, 2 lbs. of Salammoniac and 6 Gallons of thick Gum Water. No. 808. LIGHT BROWN. 2 gallons of Catechu, 10° Twaddel, 1 gallon of Berry Liquor, 10° Twaddel, 1 gallon of Sapan Liquor, 6° Twaddel and 4 ozs. of Nitrate of Copper. Thicken with Gum Senegal. No. 809. POPPY RED. 2 lbs. of Ground Cochineal, 1 pint of Strong Ammonia, 3 pints of Water, 4 pints of thick Gum Water, 4 ozs. of Alum, 4 ozs. of Oxalic Acid and 1 noggin of Muria- Sulphate of Tin. Pass the above through a fine sieve. No. 810. DARK FAWN. 1 quart of Water, 1 pint of Berry Liquor, 12° Twaddel, 1 pint of Logwood Liquor, 8° Twaddel, 4 ozs. Salammoniac and 2 lbs. of Catechu, when dissolved, add 1 pint of V. Copper Liquor; thicken with British Gum. 209 SILK WAKP PRINTING. No. 811. LIGHT FAWN. Take 1 of the above to 4 of Gum Water. No. 812. DARK DRAB. 1 quart of Logwood, 12 Twaddel, 1° quart of Sumac 6o Twaddel, 2 quarts of Berry Liquor, 12 ° Twaddel, 4 ozs. of Alum and 2 quarts of Copperas Buff ; thicken with British Gum. No. 813. LIGHT DRAB. Add 2 of the above to 4 of Gum W’ater. No. 814. DARK DAHLIA. 1 gallon of Rod Archil, 1 gallon of Sapan Liquor, 8° Twaddel, 6 lbs. of Gum Senegal, raise in weak Ammonia Water. No. 815. LIGHT DAHLIA. Add 1 of the above to 4 of Gum Water. No. 816. DARK BLUE. 2 quarts of Water, 2 lbs. of Prnssiate of Potass, when dissolved, add 2 quarts Gum Water and 4 ozs. of Tartaric Acid ; when cold, add half a noggin of Sulphuric Acid. No. 817. LIGHT BLUE. In a gallon of Gum Water dissolve 2 ozs. of Tartaric Acid, and then add 1 pint of Extract of Indigo. SILK WARP PRINTING. 210 No. 818. DARK GREEN. 1 gallon of Berry Liquor 12“ Twaddel, 12 ozs. of Alum, 2 lbs. of Prussiate of Potass, 4 ozs. of Oxalic Acid, when dissolved, thicken with 3 lbs. of Gum Senegal and 3 noggins of Vinegar; add 1 noggin of Muriate of Tin, stirring it well while adding it, to which add 1 quart of Extract of Indigo. No. 819. LIGHT GREEN. Add 1 of the above to 3 of Gum Water. No. 820. SLATE STANDARD. 5 quarts of Red Liquor, 18o Twaddel, 1 gill Iron Liquor, 22° Twad- del ; add 5 parts of the above to 1 of Bronze Logwood. Add 5 parts of the above Standard to 1 of Gum Water for the Dark Slate Colour. No. 821. LIGHT SLATE COLOUR. Add 1 of the Standard to 8 of Gum Water. No. 822. RED RUBY. 1 gallon of Bronze Peachwood, 3 lbs. of Gum Senegal, 1 lb. of Ground Alum ; at blood heat add 1 gill Oxy-Muriate of Tin. No. 823. MAZE. 7 pints of Water, 3 ozs. of Pearlash and 1| lb. of Anotta. No. 824. DARK LAVENDER. 1 of Dark Pm'ple, No. 804; 1 of Blue, No. 806 ; 2 of Gum Water. I 211 SILK WARP PRINTING. No. 825. LIGHT LAVENDER. 1 of Dark Purple, No. 804 ; 1 of Blue, No. 806 ; 6 of Gum Water. No. 826. DARK MAROON. 1 quart of Bronze Logwood, 1 quart of Bronze Peachwood and 1 quart ] of V. Copper Liquor. Thicken with 3 lbs. of British Gum. Boil well, and then add 1 quart of Red Liquor at 18“ Twaddel. No. 827. LIGHT MAROON. 2 quarts of Catechu Liquor, 10° Twaddel, 2 quarts of Sumac Liquor, 6° Twaddel, thicken with Gum Senegal, and then add 6 ozs. of Nitro-Muriate of Tin. No. 628. DARK GRAIN CRIMSON. 1 lb. of Ground Cochineal, 2 quarts of Spirits of Ammonia, mix and put into a hot Stove for 24 hours, then add 2 quarts of water, and boil well; thicken with 3 lbs. of Gum Senegal, and then add 8 ozs. of Alum same as before. No. 829. PONCEAU. 1 gallon of Cochineal Liquor, 8° Twaddel, thicken with 1 lb. of Starch ; at blood heat add 2 ozs. of Alum, 2 ozs. of Oxahc Acid, and 2i ozs. of Crystals of Tin. No. 830. ROSE. 1 lb. of Ammoniacal Cochineal to 3 lbs. of Gum Water. No. 831. DARK APRICOT. 1 gallon of Water, 4 lbs. of Catechu, 8 ozs. of Salammoniac, 1 pint of Sapan Liquor, 8° Twaddel ; thicken with British Gum, add 1 pint of Copper Liquor, 1 gill of Muriate of Copper, and 1 pint of Red Liquor. SILK WARP PRINTING. 212 No. 832. LIGHT APRICOT. 2 quarts of Persian Berry Liquor, 8“ Twaddel ; 8 ozs. of Alum, 1 quart of Maze colour. No. 823 ; 1 noggin of Oxy-Muriate of Tin, and 2 quarts of Gum Water. No. 833. DARK RED PURPLE. 3 quarts of Bronze Logwood and 12 ozs. of Alum for the Standard. For the colour, use 2 of Standard to 1 of Red Liquor and 3 of Gum Water. No. 834. LIGHT RED PURPLE. 1 of Standard, 1 of Red Liquor and 6 of Gum Water. No. 835. DARK ORANGE. 5 quarts of Caustic Pearlash, 8° Twaddel ; and 2| lbs. of Auotta, boil well, then add 2 quarts of Water, boil again, then add 2 ozs. of Tartaric Acid, and 2 ozs. of Alum ; thicken with 3 lbs. of British Gum. No. 836. LIGHT ORANGE. 1 of the above to 3 of Gum Water. No. 837. DARK OLIVE. 1 quart of Dark Purple Standard, No. 13 ; 1 quart of Bark or Fustic Liquor, 12° Twaddel; 1 pint of Blue, No. 15; 1 pint of Iron Liquor 22° Twaddel ; ^ noggin of Extract of Indigo, and 4 quarts of Gum Water. _ No. 838. LIGHT OLIVE. 1 of Dark Olive, No. 837 ; 4 of Gum Water, and 1 pint of Bark Liquor per gallon. 218 SILK WARP PRINTING. No. 839. i DARK CINNAMON BRONZE. | 1 gallon of Cochineal Liquor, 4° Twaddel ; 6 quarts of Per.sian Liquor, ! 8° Twaddel ; 8 ozs. of Paste Extract of Indigo, mix very well, thicken | with 5^ lbs. of British Gum, when off the fire add 8 ozs. of Tin Crys- j tals, when nearly cold add 8 ozs. of Oxalic Acid. ' i No. 840. I LIGHT CINNAMON BROWN. ! Add 1 of the above. No. 839 ; to 3 of Gum Water. No. 841. DARK YELLOW. 2 gallons of Persian Berry Liquor, 12" Twaddel ; 8 ozs. of Tin Crj's- j tals, boil well, thicken with 1 lb. of British Gum and 1 lb. of Flour ; wlien off the fire add 8 oz, of Salt, No. 842. 1 LIGHT YELLOW. j 2 quarts of Gum Water, 1 quart of Bark Liquor, 8" Twaddel ; 1 quart ! of Red Liquor, 18" Twaddel ; 4 ozs. of Cream of Tartar. ! No. 843. ORANGE BROWN. 2 quarts of Red Archil and 4 gallons of YeUow Colour. I To make the Yellow Colour : — 1 gallon of Persian Berry Liquor, j 12" Twaddel, 12 ozs. of Alum, 1 gill of Oxy-Iiluriate of Tin, and 4 ; quarts of thick Gum Water. t i No. 844. LIGHT ORANGE BROWN. 1 quart of Red Archil and 6 quarts of Yellow Colour. No. 845. : now TO MAKE BRONZE PEACIIWOOD. } 1 gallon of Peachwood Liquor, 8" Twaddel ; 8 ozs. of Salammoniac ; w'hen cold add 1 pint of Sulphate of Copper. SILK WAKP PRINTING. 214 No. 846. BR0N2E LOGWOOD. 1 gallou of Logwood, 8“ Twaddel ; 8 ozs. of Salaiumouiac ; ‘when dissolved add 1 pint of Copper Liquor. No. 847. COPPER LIQUOR. 1 gallon of Water, 4 lbs. of Sulphate of Copper, 4 lbs. of Sugar of Lead use only the clear Liquor. No. 848. ANOTTA LIQUOR. 1 gallon of Caustic Potass, 5“ Twaddel; lb. of Anotla, and boil until dissolved. No. 849. COPPERAS BUFF. 1 gallou of Water, 4 lbs. of Copperas, and 8 ozs. of Sugar of Lead ; use only the clear Liquor. No. 850. AMMONIACAL COCHINEAL. 2 lbs. of fine ground Cochineal and 5 pints of strong Ammonia, put in a close jar, and place it in a warm bath or put it in a hot stove for 24 hours ; then add 2 gallons of Water and boil it down to 2 gallons, to which add 4 ozs. of Alum, 4 ozs. of Oxalic Acid, and 4 ozs. of Tin Crystals. No. 851. EXTRACT OF INDIGO FOR PRINTING. Add 3 lbs. of Paste Extract to 1 gallon of Water. No. 852. DARK PRUSSIATE LIQUOR. 2 gallons of Water, 8 lbs. of Prussiate, 8 lbs. of Tartaric Acid, and 1 noggin of Sulphate of Indigo. No. 853. SULPHATE OF INDIGO. Add 1 lb. of good Indigo to 4 lbs. of Sulphuric Acid, (Oil of Vitriol). 215 dyewakp:s. A SHORT DESCRIPTION OF THE DYEWARES MENTIONED IN THIS WORK. Alum. — This salt is prepared from Alumina clays and Alum stones, the purest Alum is obtained in the Roman States from Alum stones, a mineral which is being continually produced at the Solfatara, near Naples, and other volcanic districts. It is used very extensively in dyeing on account of the attraction it has for colouring matter. It is used as a mordant for dyeing Woollen cloth. Woollen yarns. Worsted yarns and Wool. With this mordant almost every shade of colour may be obtained, some of which are named in this work. Anotta — This is obtained from an American tree, called hixa Orellana, and it is imported in the form of a paste, of a brick red colour. It is made soluble in Pearl Ash at boiling heat. It is used in dyeing various colours upon Cotton and 8ilk, viz : — Butf, Salmon, Flat Yellow, Orange, and some Fawn shades of Drab. The colours may be raised by running in weak Nitric or Sulphuric Acid, Archil. — This is a Blue-red or Violet paste, obtained from the Lichen rocella, grown in the south of France, and in the Canary Islands where the best is produced. Alone it produces a Ruby colour, and a very light Violet by adding a little Ammonia or other alkalies. It reddens Indigo Blues, and combined with Logwood produces purple. Ammonia. — Liquid Ammonia is generally distilled from Gas Liquor ; it is sometimes made from Ammoniacal Salts and Lime, but the best for dyeing purposes is made from Urine. It is very much used by dyers for the purpose of Blueing Crimsons, Clarets, Purples, &c. It is also used in making Paste Cochineal. Argol. — It is obtained from the juice of the grape, and is a crystalized incrustation generally found in wine casks. It becomes white when purified by solution and cn stalization, and is then called Cream of Tartar. In dyeing, Argol combined with Alum is generally used in the preparation or boiling of Mock Crimsons, Maroons, Clarets, and Purples. It is excellent in giving solidity to these and other colours. Being a weak Acid it is the best for dyeing bright Greens, working well with Sulphate of Indigo, and is not destructive to Fustic. It is frequently used in dyeing the Spirit colours, as Scarlet, Orange, and Grain Crimson ; but Cream of Tartar is preferable for Y^ellows, Pinks, Salmons, and other light Spirit colours. Super Argol. — Is Sulphate of Soda or common Salt cake. As an Acid it is frequently used for dyeing Drabs and Greens when Turmeric is used instead of Fustic, also for Olives and Browns. It is much cheaper than either Argol or Brown Tartar, and in some cases is preferable. DYEWAKKS. 21 G Camwood.— This is a dark red Wood, eoutaiumg strong colouring matter of a permanent nature, and is generally used for dyeing Browns and Olives upon Worsted Goods. It is most soluble in Sul- j phuric Acid diluted with water. In the dj^eing of Woollens it is ! sometimes employed as a substitute for Red Sanders, producing a I more fiery appearance in Browns of light and middle shades. Catechu.— Catechu is an extract from the heart- woodjof the Khair Tree of the East Indies. The colouring matter is sometimes extracted by Sulphate of Copper, and som.etimes by Nitrate of Copper; but Bichromate of Potash is a more efficient extracter of this colour. It is used in dyeing Cotton a variety of shades varying from a light Drab to a dark Brown. CocHisEAu. — Is a small Mexican insect containing strong colouring matter, very permanent. It is used in dyeing Pinks, Rose colours. Oranges, Scarlets, and Crimsons. The mode of extracting the colouring matter is by means of Nitrate of Tin or Muriate of Tin. These Acids for bright shades are combined with White or Brown Tartar. Chbome, or Bichromate of Potash. — This is a Salt of a Red Orange Crystal, and is of very great use as a mordant in dyeing Blacks and other dai'k colours upon Worsted or Woollen Goods, giving great permanence ; it is also used for dyeing some colours on Cotton. Cudbear, (See Archil.) — Cudbear is a dry powder, of a fine Blue- colour, and will dye a Ruby of itself, either upon Silk, Worsted, or Woollen ; a Violet with a little Logwood ; a Purple or Adelaide by previously undergoing the Chroming process. It is used in dyeing Lavenders, Drabs, and various other shades for the Red part of the colour. Sulphate of Indigo. — This is a Blue Paste, prepared from Indigo, and contains more of it in solution than in any other form. For dyeing purposes it is thus made : — Put in a Stone Jar 36 lbs. of Sul- phuric Acid, to which add 12 lbs. of grtiund Indigo gradually, stir well for tw’o hours. After standing a few hours it will be fit for use. This Sulphate of Indigo is much cheaper than Extract of Indigo for dye- ing many colours, as Greens, Olives, and Browns. Extracts of Indigo are only modifications of this, being partly neutralized and filtered. French Berry, or Persian Berry. — This is the fruit of the Rhamnus Infectorious. They yield a bright Yellow colouring matter, which is employed in dyeing bright Y^ellow shades upon cotton ; also for light Greens with either Extract of Indigo or Prussiate of Potash. They also give the Fawn shade to Drabs. Combined with Alum or Crystals of Tin a fine Golden Yellow is obtained. Fustic. — The best Old Fustic is imported from Cuba, and yields a permanent Yellow colouring matter when combined with Alum and Argol in dyeing various shades of Greens, Olives, Browns, and many othe’- Colours on Cotton, Bilk, and Wool. DYEWARES. 217 I Young Fustic. — Young Fustic is a 8 brub which grows largely in ' Italy and the South of France, where it is cultivated for dyeing pur- j 1 poses. It is generally used in dyeing fine Yellows on Wool and fine Cloths, Oranges and Scarlets with Cochineal and Nitrate of Tin. i Galus. — The Gall-nut is chiefly imported from Aleppo. It yields an astringent Black colouring matter when combined with Copperas and Logwood ; and it is generally employed in dyeing Silver Drabs upon Cotton when combined with Nitrate of Iron. As a Dyeware it gives greater solidity than Sumac for those Light shades. Yolones have nearly the same properties, but are not so astringent. Ihdigo. — It is produced from the leaves of Indigofera, a plant cultivated in South America, East Indies, &c. It is a very perma- j nent colouring matter, employed in dyeing the majority of colours, : varying from a light Drab to an Indigo Blue. The colour produced by it ! is often imitated by dyeing with Logwood, on Worsteds and Woollens ' which have previously undergone the Chroming process, j Kekmes, or Lac Dye. — It is obtained from an insect deposited on ! different species of trees in the East Indies and other places. It con- I tains red colouring matter, very like that of Cochineal, and is ! frequently used as a substitute for it, being thought by some Chemists I to possess more permanence. It dyes good Scarlets along with I Nitrate of Tin and Tartar. This Dye is much cheaper than Cochineal, I and the difference of colour is only slightly perceptible. I Myrabalans. — Are the Nuts of a tree which grow in India, i They come into this country in the shape of dried plums : they are used very extensively in the place of Sumac for dark colours and ! Blacks on Cotton. j Peachwood. — This is what dyers call “Lima Peachwood,” or Nica- I ragua W'ood. There are several kinds and qualities of this Wood ; ! they get their names from the places where they are grown. Brazil I Wood, Sapan Wood, Peachwood, (fee. This Wood is used for dyeing j vai’ious colours both on Cotton and Woollen Goods as may be seen I from my receipts. With an Alum preparation, a Crimson may be i obtained. I have dyed hundreds of pieces Crimson with it on fine j I I Damasks and other Worsted Fabrics, and thousands of Clarets and j ! Purples with a mixture of Logwood. With a Crome preparation any j 1 shade of Brown, Claret, and Purple can be dyed with it, by adding j Logwood and Fustic according to shade. It is a most useful dyewood, but not so permanent as Barwood, Sanderwood, and Camwood. On that account the Piaw Wool Dyers seldom ever use it. They invari- ably use the Barwood, Sanderwood, and Camwood for their Kedwood. Logwood. — This is a Dark Red Dyewood, and is much employed in dyeing Black upon Silk, Cotton, and Woollen ; also for Blues and many other colours. Logwood on first being introduced into England was denounced by the cultivators of the native Woad, and even pro- hibited in England by Queen Elizabeth. All imported was to be destroyed ; nor was it allowed to be used till the reign of Charles the Second. UYEWAKES. 218 Madder. — This is obtained from the root of the Euhia Tinctorum, which grows wild in the South of Europe, &c. It is an article ol great importance in dyeing. Madder possesses five distinct colouring principles, viz. madder red, madder purple, madder orange, madder yellow, and madder brown. These colours are of most use to Calico Printers. It is also used with acid, &c., to dye many shades of Drabs, i Bro\vns, Olives, and Beds. j Nitric Acid, or AquaFortis. — This Spirit is much used in dyeing, j 1 It is made from Nitrate of Potash, or Nitrate of Soda, and Sulphuric j | i Acid. It will dye Silk yellow of itself, but is generally killed with i i ! Tin for Worsteds and ^Voollens. ; I; Nitrates. — Nitrate of Tin is Aqua Fortis killed with Tin, which I is used in dyeing Yellows, Bulfs, Scarlets and Crimsons upon Worsted j and Woollen Goods. i . ! Prussiate of Potash.— This is made from Pearlash and animal substances, as horns and hoofs ; it is used by Dyers for dyeing Prussian Blues, varying from a Sky to a Eoyal Blue upon Cotton Fabrics. Quercitron Bark. — This is obtained from the Yellow Oak, ! (quercus najra,) growing in North America. It furnishes an excellent ' Yellow colour. Alum and Muriate of Tin are the principal mordants employed in dyeing Woollen and Cotton. It produces excellent Drabs upon Cotton with Nitrate of Iron. I Safflower. — The flowers of the Carthamus Tinctorius , grows chiefly in Spain, contains two colouring matters, yellow and red ; the yellow is carried off by well washing in water until the flowers assume j I a bright crimson appearance : the red colouring matter is extracted ! j by steeping in Pearlash and Water with occasional stirring ; the | I liquor is then pressed from the flower and is ready for dyeing Pink 1 1 j upon Cotton fabrics combined with a little Tartaric or Sulplmric Acid. . j j There is also a decoction of Safflower sold in bottles. I i I Sanders, or Bed Sandal.— This is the W'ood of the Pterocarpus j j santalinus, grown in India. It possesses deep red colouring matter, ! and is used chiefly in dyeing Woollen Goods. It is more permanent than Peachwood, though not of so bright a colour. Sapan Wood. — This wood produces a red colour similar to that obtained from Peachwood, but it is not so much used for dyeing j purposes. It is generally sold in an extracted state, and is used in ! Padding and Printing. | Sumac. — This astringent vegetable production is extensively i used, chiefly for Cotton Dyeing. It is used as the base of many | colours. — The best is that imported from Sicily. It has great affinity 1 for Iron, which, w'hen combined with Sumac in certain proportions j imparts to Cotton a variety of shades from Silver Drab to Black. j DYEWARES. 219 i i I Turmeric. — Tliis is the root of a plant cultivated in the East Indies, and contains much yellow colouring matter. It is frequently used instead of Fustic, but is not so permanent. Vitriol. — Oil of Vitriol is a Sulphuric Acid. Blue. — Blue Vitriol is Sulphate of Copper. Green. — Green Vitriol is Sulphate of Iron or Copperas. It is really a Proto- Sulphate of Iron. I I j EXAMINATION OF WATER. , 220 EXAMINATION OF WATER BY TESTS, OR RE AGENTS. TO ASCERTAIN IF WATER BE HARD OR SOFT. Procure a small quantity of Soap dissolved in Alcohol, and let a few drops of it fall into a glass of the water to be tried. If the water be- comes milky it is hard ; but if little or no milkiness takes place, the water may be said to be soft. TO ASCERTAIN IF WATER CONTAIN AN ACID. Take a piece of paper containing no sizing, and which has been previously stained with Litmus, Syrup of Violets, or scrapings of Radishes, and immerse it in the water to be examined ; if the paper becomes red, it contains an Acid. If a little lime-water be added to the same water, and a precipitate takes place, it is Carbonic Acid. If dark blue paper, such as is wrapped round loaves of sugar be con- verted to red, it contains a Mineral Acid. TO ASCERTAIN IF WATER CONTAIN AN ALKALI OR AN EARTH. Take a piece of paper which has been stained with an infusion of Litmus, and reddened by Vinegar, and immerse it in the water; if the blue colour of the paper be restored, it either contains an alkali or an earth. If a little of the Syrup of Violets be added to the water which contains an alkali or an earth, the water will become green. TO ASCERTAIN IF WATER CONTAIN IRON. Take a glass of water and add to it a few drops of the infusion of Nutgalls, or suspend a Nutgall in it by means of a thread for 24 hours ; if Iron be present, the water will become of a dark Brown or Black colour. Prussiate of Potash is a still more delicate test for detecting Iron. If a Crystal, or a drop of it when dissolved be added to a glass of water containing Iron, it will immediately become of a Blue colour. TO ASCERTAIN IF WATER CONTAIN ANY SUBSTANCE COMBINED WITH MURIATIC ACID. Take a glass of Water and let a few drops of Nitrate of Silver fall into it; if a milkiness be produced, which disappears on the addition of a little Liquid Ammonia, it may be concluded that some Salt with Muriatic Acid is present. Muriate of Lime, Muriate of Soda, (com- mon salt) and Muriate of Magnesia, are the Salts most generally to be met with in spring Water. 221 EXAMINATION OF WATER. TO ASCERTAIN IF WATER CONTAIN MAGNESIA. 1 I Take a quantity of the Water and boil down to a twentieth part i of its bulk, then drop a few grains of Carbonate of Ammonia into a small glass of Water. No Magnesia will yet be precipitated; but on adding a small quantity of Phosphate of Soda, if any Magnesia be present, it will then make its appearance, and fall to the bottom of the glass. Observation — In this experiment, it is necessary that the Carbonate of Ammonia be in a neutral state. i TO ASCERTAIN IF WATER CONTAIN PURE LIME. I Into a glass of the Water drop a Crystal or two of Oxalic Acid ; j if a precipitate takes place, and if another glass of the same Water i becomes milky upon blowing air from the lungs into it through a quill, the presence of pure Lime or Barytes may be inferred ; but Barytes has never yet been found pure in Water. TO ASCERTAIN IF WATER CONTAIN CARBONIC ACID. Take a quantity of the Water and add to it an equal quantity of perfectly transparent Lime Water. If Carbonic Acid be present, either free or combined, a precipitate immediately appears, which, on adding a few drops of Muriatic Acid, will again be dissolved with j effervescence. TO ASCERTAIN IF W^ATER CONTAIN ANY COMBI- NATION OF SULPHUR. Put a little Quicksilver into a phial of Water, cork it, and let it stand for a few hours. If the surface of the Quicksilver has acquired a black appearance, and a blackish powder separates from it on shaking the phial, the presence of Sulphur may be inferred. TO ASCERTAIN IF WATER CONTAIN LEAD. To a little of the water in a glass add an equal portion of water impregnated with Sulphurretted Gas. If Lead be present, it will be known by the colour of the water, which will assume a dark Brown or Blackish tinge. Observation : — Lead may also be detected by adding a little Sulphuret of Ammonia or Potash. A similar effect will take place as in the last experiment if Lead be present. TO ASCERTAIN IF WATER CONTAIN COPPER. Immerse a polished plate of Iron in the water to be examined, and let it remain in a few minutes. If Copper be present, the plate of Iron will be coated over with Copper. Observation ; — A few drops of Liquid Ammonia will turn any Water containing Copper to a deep Blue colour. US’ The best book for testing Waters which I have read, is written by Mr. George Jarmain, Huddersfield, and is worthy of a place in every Dyer and Manufacturer’s library EXPLANATION OF TERMS. 222 EXPLANATION OF TERMS, &c. Terms often used in reference to the dyeing of Wool in its raw state, and Woollen Pieces in a manufactured state ; for instance, it is often said “ Stuff” and “ Sadden.” Both these words should be understood, and are by the practical dyer, but not by persons unaccustomed with the trade. To “ Stuff” means to dye the Wool or Pieces with the kind and quantity of dyewares used in the dyeing of them. To “ Sadden ” means to add a salt of some kind for the purpose of making the Wool darker ; such as Copperas (Sulphate of L.’on), or Blue Vit- riol (Sulphate of Copper). Sometimes the one is used and sometimes the other, but generally, and almost at all times the Copperas is used to make the colour darker, and is always added when the Wool has absorbed or taken up all the colouring matter in the boihng of it as will be seen in most of the Wool and Woollen Eeceipts is this Work. It is said “ Stuff ” with so many pounds of this and so many pounds of that, and “ Sadden ” with so many pounds of Copperas. Another term is used which is not well understood ; the term “Fish-out,” which means that the Wool must be got out of the dye bath. Wool is generally dyed in Iron pans of sufficient size to hold the quantity to be dyed ; but it is sometimes dyed in Iron or Wood cisterns, and so arc Woollen cloths. Sometimes dyers say, “ Boil ” or “ Prepare ” instead of saying “ Stuff’,” but meaning the same thing in this Work except where the terms are more carefully expressed in the dyeing of any particular colour. We sometimes use the term “ Prepare with Alum and Argol,” or “ Prepare with Chrome.” When we say “ Prepare with Alum and Argol ” we mean to convey the idea that the Wool and Cloth must be boiled in the Alum and Argol before it is dyed. When we say, “Pre- pare with Chrome,” we mean to convey the idea that the W'ool or Cloth must be boiled in Bichromate of Potash. Some dyers use the one preparation and some the other. Almost any common colour may be dyed on Wool and ’Woollen Cloth after it has been prepared by either of those processes, from the lightest shade of Drab to the darkest shade of Brown, Olive, or Purple. In many instances I have dyed the same colour from both these preparations. The colours are brighter and more durable from the “ Alum and Argol ” preparations. Alum and Argol prepare Wool and WooUen Cloths to receive Fustic, Logwood and Lima Peachwood in any quantity suitable for dyeing any colour where those dye woods are used. With this preparation I have dyed thousands of fine Damasks a Mock Crimson wdth Lima Peach- wood, quite equal to a Cochineal Crimson, but the colour is fugitive. This is the best preparation for Claret and Purple colours where Logwood and Peachwood are used in the dyeing of them. Some of my Receipts shew certain colours dyed with this sort of preparation which 223 EXPLANATION OF TEEMS. are solid, even, and more permanent than many of the colours dyed with Aniline. Madder Beds are dyed on Woollen Cloths with this preparation, and are fast colours with French or Dutch Madders; some of those Reds are equal to Lac- Scarlets. Madders of any kind may he used along with Fustic, Peachwood, and Logwood, which will give permanency to the colours for which they are used. j An explanation of particular terms used in the dye-house, and which are often referred to in this Work in reference to the dyeing of Cotton j in the Mixed Fabrics. For instance, it is often said “ Sixmac,” “ Iron,” 1 and “ Spirit,” these three terms ai-e often used and should be well understood, for they are terms always used by the workmen. In every, I dye-house where there are any large amount of Mixed Fabrics dyed, there are three “Baths” or Cisterns, in which the Cotton Warps are pre- pared to receive the colouring matter which is to be applied to them. These three “Baths” are called the “Mordanting Baths,” and they are made up or prepared in the manner following: — The first is called “ The Sumac Bath,” and which is filled say three parts full with clean cold water, to which is added a quantity of Sicily Sumac just sufficient to make the decoction taste rough on the tongue. The Sumac is stirred into the Bath, with a wooden rake. In this decoction the pieces are turned over for about two hours, then wound on to the wench, ready to be turned into the second Bath. In this state the pieces are said to be “ Sumaced.” If the pieces are to be “Ironed,” they are turned from the Sumac Bath into the “ Iron Bath.” The Iron Bath is made to stand at say 2° Twaddel with good Nitrate of Iron. After the pieces have been run 8 ends in the Iron Bath, they are said to be “ Sumaced and Ironed,” and so they are, for they have been passed through both Sumac and Iron. Then they are turned into, or carried to the third Bath, which is called the “ Spirit Bath ” where they have to be “ Spirited.” The third Bath is also to be filled with clean cold water, to which is added a quantity of Dye Spirits, called “Cotton Spirits,” which is Nitro- Muriate of Tin (a receipt of which I have given in full). The water in this Bath should be raised to 3o T. with “Cotton Spirits,” that is to say, the Liquor should be made to stand at 3 degrees by the “No. 1 Hydrometer,” which is generally called “The Twaddel” by j the dyer (these are the best Spirits I have discovered for Cotton Dyeing). The pieces should be run through this Solution of Tin in the third Bath for half-an-hour, then taken out and well washed in clean 1 cold water to remove all Acid from the worsted or wooHeu part of the fabric. The goods are now said to be, and are in every respect “prepared,” that is to say, they are “Sumaced,” “Ironed,” and “ Spirited.” In this prepared state they are retidy to be dyed into j any colour where a solid colour is required. This sort of preparation ! to the cotton enables the dyer to dye both the Cotton and the Wool together as if the whole fabric had been made of Wool only. The cotton has by this preparation got what we dyers call “ Animalized,” and is by this process chemically prepared to receive colouring matter in such quantiiy as the d_>er may desire to impart to it. When I EXPLANATION OF TEKMS. 224 cotton is prepared in this way, it may be dyed almost any colour with wood decoctions or “ Aniline Colours.” But pieces for some colours do not require to be passsed through all these three operations, some colours such as Olives, Drabs, Dark Greens, and Blacks, only require to be “Sumaced and Ironed.” They require no ‘‘ ISpiriting.” Then, there are other colours which do not require to be “ Ironed,” for instance, such as Yellow, Orange, Scarlet, Magenta, Purple, and other ! Aniline Colours. Those only require to be “ Sumaced ” and “ Spirited.” I The Ironing process has a tendency to darken and make the colour heavy ; nevertheless it is useful, and even indispensibls for the dark heavy colours, especially Blacks. When Cotton has been “ Sumaced and Ironed ” it is of a Grey Slate colour, and if then passed through a I decoction of Logwood in another bath it will be dyed Black. In this way a common Black on Cotton is generally dyed in Mixed Fabrics. It is so dyed either before or after the Wool part of the Fabric has been dyed, but generally afterwards, and so it is with other dark colours which have been first Wool dyed. In such cases the Worsted or Woollen is dyed the shade required (making an allowance for the Cotton to be dyed afterwards), where this is the custom the goods have to be “ Sumaced ” and “ Ironed ” afterwards, and the Cotton has to be dyed to match the Worsted or Woollen part of the fabric where a solid colour is requmed. But sometimes two separate and distinct colours are required on the same fabric ; some of those two colours are beautiful, and for which I have given Keceipts in full, so that the learner may obtain a knowledge of the dyeing of the two colours as well as the single colours. After giving such a clear explanation of the preparation of those fabrics, and with full and clear explanation of the three terms “ Sumac,” “ Iron,” and “ Spirit,” I shall say no more here. In many of my receipts I refer to these terms and pre- parations for dyeing the Cotton part of the piece. Let it be well understood that where I say “ Sumac,” “ Iron,” and “ Spirit,” that I mean to say the pieces have to be passed through those baths con- taining those preparations ; for those are the preparations for the colour to which I refer in my receipts. These things being well understood, I shall refer to them from time to time instead of repeating them. And I would just say in conclusion on this part, that many dyers call these preparations or processes “Bottoming,” by which it is under- stood among them “to give a bottom or basis to the Cotton to receive the colouring matter.” Some dyers use Stannate of Soda along with Sumac as a bottom or base for Cotton instead of Spirit, and which is an excellent preparation for many colours, and which would answer the end designed in many of the Mixed Fabrics, but I prefer the mode I have so fuUy explained as a preparation. I have also in this Work given receipts for dyeing with a preparation of Nitrate of Copper and Soda, which may be found to be of groat use to some dyers. 225 WOOL AND COTTON SPIKITS. WOOL AND COTTON SPIRITS. NITRATE OP TIN. Nitrate of Tin, such as is used for dyeing Scarlets and other fine fast colours is made of single Aquafortis, (Nitric Acid at 32° Twaddel). This should be rectified Aquafortis, and be clear of all red fumes, otherwise it will be subject to fire in the killing of it. To every pound of this Aquafortis add by degrees 1^ oz. of Feathered Tin, not more than one or two handfuls should be added at one time ; this must be added from time to time until the whole has been eaten up in the Aquafortis. In this state it is said to be “ killed,” and if properly “ killed ” and not “ fired ” it will be of a bright Amber colour resem- bling pale ale, and is then ready for use. It is generally killed in large earthenware bowls, holding about 12 gallons each. If the Spirits are “ fired ” they will not dye a bright colour ; there- fore are worthless for such purpose. Spirits are said to be “ fired ” when the Tin is dissolved too rapidly, and when by heat they are converted into a bichloride. In this state the Spirits are of a Brown colour, and much sediment will be found in the bottom of the bowl in which they have been killed. Practical dyers always prepare their own Nitrate of Tin in this way. To Feather Tin take a quantity of the best Grain Tin, and melt it in an iron pot or ladle, and then pour it while in a melted state, but very gently, from a height of 4 or 5 feet into clean cold water, say into a half-cask or some other vessel of convenient size. By this means the Tin is formed into fine thin flakes, and in this state it is easily dissolved in the Acid. Tin in this state is used for “killing ” j Spirits of all sorts ; such as Nitrate of Tin, Muriate of Tin, Nitro- j muriate of Tin, and Murio-sulphate of Tin. To make Nitrate of Tin requires more care than any other sort of dye Spirits, inasmuch as it requires to be fed gradually with the Tin, to prevent its being fired. Any of the other sorts of Spirits may be fed with large quantities of Tin, not being subject to “ firing ” like Nitrate of Tin. Nitrate of Tin is the mildest and the best for dyeing Yarns, Woollen Cloths, and other fabrics. Yellow, Orange, Scarlet, and other fine colours, especially those where Cochineal and Lac Dye are used in the dyeing of them. There is another form in which grain Tin is used by the Practi- cal Dyer. This is called “Bar Tin,” and is in the shape of small rods, and is used in the place of “ Feather Tin ” for killing “ Nitric Acid.” This is an ordinary article of commerce, and is sold in this state. These bars or rods are placed in an upright position in the Acid, where they are gradually eaten up by it. By this means the Acid is “killed” without much danger of fireing, if it is properly i I WOOL AND COTTON SPIRITS. 226 rectified. Tlie rectifying of the Acid is managed by the manufactui'er of it, and not by the dyer. It comes to the dyer ready to be “ killed.” Some large dyers kill for their own use from two to five hundred pounds every day. Such men know as soon as they pour the Acid from the Carboy whether it will be subject to “fire” or not. SINGLE MURIATE OF TIN. To make Single Muriate of Tin, put, say a hundred pounds of Spirits of Salt, (“Muriatic Acid ” at 32“ T.,) into an earthenware jar, to which add 2 ozs. of Feathered Tin to each lb. of Acid. Let it stand until all the tin is eaten up, when it is ready for use. If it be put into a Carboy it will keep for any length of time. Where Double Muriate of Tin is required, add double the quantity of tin ; but in that case the jar must be placed upon a hot sand bath, or into hot water where steam can be applied ; heat must be applied or the tin will not be all dissolved and eaten up by the Acid. More Sugar can be dissolved in hot water than in cold, just so in this case with tin. CRYSTALS OF TIN. To make Crystals of Tin, add to every 30 lbs. of Spirits of Salt, (“ Muriatic Acid ”) 10 lbs. of Nitric Acid. Heat the Acid to 200°, and keep it up at that heat, adding by degrees Feathered Tin until it will eat up no more. Let the solution cool gradually, after which tin crystals will fall down in small flakes, and which must be collected and dried at a gentle heat, and which are then ready for use. OXMUEIATE OF TIN. Take 5 parts of Water, one part of Crystals of Tin, and half the quantity of Muriatic Acid, bring this up to a boil, then add gradually and vei’y cautiously drop by drop. Nitric Acid, until no fumes or effervescence are produced. Let it then cool, when it will be ready ! for use. I “BARK SPIRITS,” OR “YELLOW SPIRITS.” To every 4 parts of Muriatic Acid add 1 part of Double Sulphuric Acid gradually and cautiously : to this add Feathered Tin after the I rate of 1| oz. to each lb. of mixed Acid. When the tin is all eaten ; up, it is ready for use. These Spirits are sometimes called “ Bark Spirits," because they are often used in dyeing Yellow colours with j Quercitron Bark. i FINISHING SPIRITS. ! Finishing Spirits are made exactly like the Yellow Spirits. I These Spirits are used for giving a bloom to Prussian Blues or Worsted or Woollen cloths ; but Muriate of Tin is a better sort of Spirits for those Blues, there being, quite enough Sulphuric Acid in the “Blue Spirits” used in the dyeing of these colours: I have therefore substituted Muriate of Tin for Finishing Spirits in the receipts for the dyeing of those Prussian Blues. I 227 WOOL AND COTTON SPIKITS. BLUE SPIRITS. The Blue Spirits used for dyeing Prussian Blues are made as follows : — Into a Carboy of 12 Gallons size, put 4 Gallons of Muriatic Acid, add to this 2 Gallons of Nitric Acid, then add very cautiously 1 Gallon of Sulphuric Acid. This done, cork up the Carboy and cover it with a body of stiff clay so as to keep all the gas that you possibly can from being carried off : for much strong gas will arise in the making of these Spirits. This Spirit is ready for use the next day, i after which time it should be kept air-tight to be preserved for j future use. I These few sorts of Spirits are about the only sorts that are t required in the dyeing of Worsted and Woollen fabrics ; but there are a few other sorts required for dyeing Cotton, both in a raw and manufactured state. The receipts for these I will give, from which the practical dyer may obtain any Spirit colour, that is, any colour requiring Spirits with which to dye it. COTTON SPIRITS. The best Spirits that I have discovered for the dyeing of Cotton generally is made as follows, and the dyer requires no others if he use these proportionally, according to the colour he has to dye. I have shewn how, and at what strength they are to be used in many of my receipts ; — To every 4 lbs. of Muriatic Acid (Spirits of Salts), add 2 ozs. of “ Feathered Tin ” ; let the Muriatic Acid eat up as much of the tin as possible; when it has done so, add to it 2 lbs. of Double Nitric Acid (Double Aquafortis). The Nitric Acid will assist the Muriatic Acid to eat up all the tin. When it has done so, it is ready for use and will keep good for any length of time, if bottled and corked. NITRATE OF COPPER. To make Nitrate of Copper add old or new pieces of Copper plates to Double Aquafortis until it will eat no more. After cooling and settling it is ready for use. SILK SPIRITS. For the dyeing of Silks there are several sorts of solutions of Tin which have a tendency to give different tints and hues to Silk ; but one sort, the “ Plum Spirits” are generally used for making up the various dye vats or dye tubs. The term tub is often used for vat or bath, because the vats and baths are made of deep casks, where the drugs of the decoctions of woods can settle to the bottom of them. For Plum vat the dyer often uses the term Plum tub or Plum bath, both meaning the same thing. 229 ANILINE VATS. ANILINE VATS. No. 1. CRIMSON VAT FOR COTTON DYEING. To make a Crimson Vat or bath for dyeing Cotton dissolve 1 lb. of Magenta Crystals in 6 gallons of boiling water, to the whole add i a gill of Muriatic Acid (Spirits of Salts). Add the whole to a cistern of convenient size to dye 10 or 20 pieces Orleans or Cobourgs, or say 2 or 3 pieces Woollen and Cotton Fabrics. If the pieces are turned in this vat, 6 or 8 ends, the Cotton will be a full bright Crimson colour after they have been prepared or mordanted with “ Sumac,” “ Spirit ” with Cotton Spirits. When very full dark shades of Crimson are required the pieces should be “ Sumaced, Ironed, and Spirited,” but not otherwise. As the vat is being used from time to time a little more Magenta must be added to it, so as to keep it in good condition. Dyers will find a considerable saving in using Vats for Cotton dyeing these “Aniline colours.”. These Vats can be heated with steam, the same as any other dyeing cistern. To dye some full dark colours it is necessary to heat them. I have shewn in my receipts where it is necessary to heat them : in some of them I say “ cold,” sometimes “ warm,” sometimes “ hot,” and sometimes at “boil.” When I say “cold,” I mean to say heat is not to be applied ; when I say “ warm,” a little heat is to be applied ; when I say “ hot,” I mean to say about half a boil, or about 100° F. ; when I say at “ boil,” I mean to say the vat must be made to boil, but that the steam must be turned off and the pieces run on so many ends at the boiling point. Let this be understood in reference to other vats as well as this, in fact in all the Aniline colour vats ; for what applies to this will apply to all others. Having fully explained these things here I shall not speak of them so fully in speaking of vats for other colours. Aniline Crimson may be used in the place of Magenta for the Crimson vat. No. 2. SCARLET VAT FOR COTTON DYEING. Dissolve 2 lbs. of Aniline Scarlet Dye for Cotton in 6 gallons of boiling water, and add it to a cistern of cold water as in No. 1 vat. No. 3. VIOLET VAT FOR COTTON DYEING. Dissolve 2 lbs. of Aniline Violet Powder in 6 gallons of boiling water, and add it to a cistern of cold water as in No. 1 vat. ANILINE VATS. 230 No. 4. PURPLE VAT FOR COTTON DYEING. Dissolve 2 lbs. of Aniline Violet Powder in (5 gallons of boiling water, and add it to a cistern of cold water. No. 5 . BISMARCK BROWN VAT FOR COTTON DYEING. Dissolve 2 lbs. of good Bismarck Brown Aniline in 12 gallons of boiling water, pass the whole through a fine sieve into a cistern of cold w'ater. No. G. ORANGE VAT FOR COTTON DYEING. Dissolve 2 lbs. of Phosphine Orange Aniline in 6 gallons of boiling water, and add it to a cistern of cold water. No. 7. SAFFRANINE CRIMSON VAT FOR COTTON DYEING. Dissolve 6 lbs. of Satfranine in 24 gallons of boiling water, and add it to a cistern of cold water. No. 8. NAVY BLUE VAT FOR COTTON DYEING. Dissolve 2 lbs of Navy blue in 12 gallons of hot water, and add it to a cistern of cold water. No. 9. NITRATE OF COPPER VAT. This Vat must be made to stand at 8 degrees Twaddcl by the No. 1 Hydrometer with Nitrate of Copper only. In this Vat the pieces only require to be run 8 ends cold, then be run 8 ends in the Alkaline Vat to prepare tliem to be dyed almost any of the colours that ai-e usually prepared with “ Sumac and Spirit,” or “Sumac and Stannet of Soda.” 231 ALKALINE VATS. No. 10. ALKALINE VAT. The Alkaline Vat is made up with common Soda only. To a cistern of cold water, of sufficient size to hold 10 or 20 pieces, add about 50 or 60 lbs. of common Soda, previously dissolved in hot water ; a little more may be added from time to time, as the Vat is weakened or made acid by the Nitrate of Copper used in the “ Nitrate of Copper Vat.” Any of the Vats may be replenished with a little more colouring matter from time to time, as they are weakened by continually using. As a preparation, the Nitrate of Copper Vat and the Alkaline Vat will be found to be of great advantage for dyeing very hght bright shades. No. 11. MALACHITE GREEN VAT, FOR COTTON-DYEING COTTON. Dissolve 2 lbs. of Malichite Green in 12 gallons of boiling water, and add it to a cistern of cold water. HOW TO SET COPTERAS VATS. 232 HOW TO SET COPPERAS VATS. HOW TO SET A COPPERAS VAT FOR DYEING COTTON WARPS AND HANKS. In a half-pipe tub of cold water add 12 pounds of ground Indigo ; the Indigo must be ground in a barrel with water. To this add 12 lbs. of new slacked Lime and 24 lbs. of Copperas. Stir well a few times, and in the comrse of 24 hours it will be ready for use. This will be a good vat, and will dye a great quantity of Cotton. It wiU dye a very good shade of Blue by passing the Cotton once through, and darker shades by passing through again. When the vat is nearly worn out add to it a few pounds of Copperas, and a pound or two of Potash, which will revive it again. By this means all the strength of the Indigo may be got out of it. Some dyers use considerably more Copperas in the setting, but this is enough when very bright shades are required. HOW TO SET A COPPERAS VAT FOR PIECE DYEING. In a large vat add 20 lbs. of Indigo, well ground as before ; 100 lbs. of Copperas, and 30 lbs. of new slacked Lime. Stir well for half an hour until it has a Yellow apperance, and in the course of 24 hours it will be ready for use. After working the vat for some length of time add a little more Copperas. 233 EXTRACTING BY THE OLD PROCESS. EXTRACTING BY THE OLD PROCESS. The old mode of extracting Burrs from Wool is as follows : — The Wools are steeped in large cisterns containing a solution of Oil of Vitriol. The solution is made to stand at from 4 to 14 degrees by the No. 1 Hydrometer. Fine Wools do not require very strong solutions; coarser Wools containing many burrs and much vegetable matter require stronger solutions to extract them. When the Wools have been steeped, say 12 hours, they are then thrown up on to tables covered with lead, and so arranged as to convey all the liquor drained from them back into the cistern, that none of it be wasted. After all the liquor has been drained from the Wool, it is then removed to the drying stove to be dryed. When dryed it is properly teased to remove all dust, &c., from it. It is then washed well in warm water to re- move the Acid from it. It is then dryed again, and is ready for use. Before those Wools are dyed they should be run through a solution of Soda or Ammonia, to remove all traces of Acid from them. Bags of all sorts are extracted after this manner, but with a stronger solution of Oil of Vitriol. When rags are steeped the liquor should stand at 14 degrees at least. In many cases the rags are only dipped in the liquor, then thrown on to the drawing tables. When they are dipped only the liquor should stand at 16 or 18 degrees. When they are drained they are dryed in a hot stove. When dryed they are teased to remove the dust from them, and are then ready to be carded or to be sold in that state. Hundreds of tons of dark coloured Bags are extracted and sold which are manipulated in this way. EXTRACTING BY THE NEW PROCESS. 2-34 EXTRACTING BY THE NEW PROCESS. IMPROVEMENT IN EXTRACTING VEGETABLE MATTERS [ FROM COMBINATIONS OP ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE ! SUBSTANCES. This is manipulated in the following manner, by my Patented Gas Process: — In a room of convenient size, say to hold 500 lbs. of Wool or Rags in a dry state spread over wood rods in five tiers, one tier above another. Such a room is called a kiln, which is made of strong brickwork. Under this kiln flues are built, and heat applied as in the case of an ordinary drying stove. The heat arising from the flues is to keep the Wool or Rags dry during the time of the exti-acting process. The heat is apphed in this way to prevent drops of condensed Acid gas falling from the roof of the kiln on to the Wool or Rags, which | Avould otherwise fall down and stain them. I To charge the retort put into it 100 lbs. of common salt, to which add very gradually 80 lbs. of Oil of Vitriol. From an opening left in the top of the retort a 12 inch glazed earthenware pipe is fixed, to convey the gas into the kiln. The gas is really Muriatic Acid gas, which is soon spread all over the kiln, and which is partly absorbed by the Wool or Rags spread upon the rods. The gas has a tendency to destroy the vegetable matter contained in the Wool or Rags, but which does not materially affect the Wool. The Wool or Rags J must remain in the kiln 10 or 12 hours, after which they must be | removed and thrown into a heap. During the time they are being | thrown into a heap they must be sprinkled with hot water until they ! are well saturated ; in this state they should lay over night, or at least j 12 hours ; then taken to the washing machine to be well washed in warm water to remove the Acid from them. They may then be dyed I if they are to be dyed in that state, if not, they must be dryed, then j teased to remove the dust from them. In this state they are ready to j be carded, or are ready for the market, for many of them are sold in j this state. Some persons dye those extracted Wools after they have been carded. Before they are dyed they should be run through a weak Alkaline liquor made up of a little Ammonia or common Soda, to remove all traces of Acid left in them. When extracted Wools i have been treated in this manner they may be dyed into any ordinary i colour, making an allowance for any colouring matter left in them from previous dyeing. White Wools which have been extracted in this manner may be dyed into the finest Aniline Colours. Neither Wool in a raw state nor Rags in a manufactured state are as much discoloured by this process as they are when extracted by the old process. Rags extracted by the old process must of necessity run their colours into each other when steeping. But rags extracted by the new process are but very little altered from their original shades of colour. EXTRACTING BY THE NEW EROCESS. I have dyed some of the finest shades of colours on Wools extrac- ted from Rags by my Gas Process ; and for some of which I have been awarded with three medals — one from Cordova, one from Paris, and one from Philadelphia. Extracted Wools wdiich have been manipulated as I have described them, may be dyed in all respects into Alkaline or Acid colonies, just the same as other Wools, in accordance with my receipts. ; With one of the Aniline dyes called Induline, all shades of Indigo Blue may he dyed ; and dyed almost as fast a colour with Sulphuric Acid. The darkest of extracted Wools can be dyed into those Blues whether they have been manipulated by the old or the new process. This Aniline dye is most valuable to an extractor who dyes his own W'ools, as it will stand milling and washing to almost any extent. EXPLANATION OF TECHNICAL TERMS. 236 | 1 1 B^ZSrOI^.OIF'T'S EXPLANATION OF TECHNICAL TERMS. ■ Acetatix Salts formed by pure acetic acid with different Acetate of Copper bases. Copper in combination with acetic acid. Acetate of Iron Iron in union with acetic acid. Acetic Acid Strong dephlegmated acid of vinegar. 1 Acetous Acid Undephlegmated acid of vinegar. 1 Adjective Colours, or Those which acquire their lustre and perma- Colouring Matters nency by being adjected or appHed upon a Alumina or Alumine suitable basis. The pure argillaceous earth of alum. Ammonia Caustic volatile alkali. Ammoniates Combinations of ammonia with different bases. Arsen iates Salts formed by the acid of arsenic with differ- Azote or Azotic Gas ent bases. The phlogisticated air of Priestley and others, Caloric the basis of nitric acid, and therefore called nitrogen. The matter or cause of heat. Carbonates Combinations of carbonic acid with different Carbonate of Lime bases. Lime united to Carbanic acid — Chalk. (yurbonute of Potash Fixed vegetable alkah united to carbonic acid. Carbonate of Soda Mineral alkali united to carbonic acid. (hirbone or Carbon Pure charcoal or its basis. Carbonic Aciil Oxygen united to carbon, commonly called i j Citrates fixed air. Salts formed by citric acid with different bases. Citric Acid The pure acid of lemons. Filiates Salts formed by fluoric acid with different bases. Fluoric Acid That which is obtained from Fluor spar. Hydrogen Gas Inflammable air. h 1 237 EXPLANATION OF TECHNICAL TERMS. MurirUex 1 Salts formed by muriatic acid with diffei’ent bases. ! Muriatic Acid The acid of sea-salt, or common salt — Marine acid. Muriate of Ammonia Muriatic acid united to ammonia. Muriate of Silver Muriatic acid combined with silver. Muriate of Soda Muriatic acid united to soda — common or sea- salt. Muriate of Tin Muriatic acid combined with tin. Murio-Nitrales Salts formed by muriatic and nitric acids with different bases, the muriatic being the greater proportion. Mur io- Sulphates Salts formed by muriatic and sulphuric acids with different bases, the muriatic being the greater proportion. Murio- Sulphate of Tin Tin dissolved by muriatic and sulpheric acids. Murio-Tartrites Salts formed by muriatic and tartaric acids with the different bases, the muriatic being ' in the greater proportion. Murio Tartrite of Tin Tin dissolved by muriatic and tartaric acids. Nitrates Salts formed by nitric acid with different bases. Nitrate of Alumine Alumine combined with nitric acid. Nitrate of Copper Copper united to nitric acid. Nitrate of Iron Iron in union with nitric acid. Nitrate of Lead Lead combined with nitric acid. Nitrate of Potash Nitre or saltpetre Nitrate of Silver Silver in union with nitric acid. Nitric Acid Colourless acid of nitre, or aquafortis, in which ' the basis is saturated with oxygen. ; Nitrogen The basis of the nitric acid. Nitrous Acid Eed or smoking spirit of nitre, in which the nitrogen is in excess, or not fully saturated with oxygen. ' Nitro Muriates Salts formed by nitric and muriatic acids with different bases, the nitric being the greatrr proportion. Nitro-Muriate of Gold A solution of that metal by nitro-muriatic acid, formerly called apua regia. Nitro-Muriate if Tin A solution of that metal by nitric and muriatic acids, called “Spirit," by scarlet dyers. Oxides ( metallic j 1 1 Metals in union with oxygen, formerly called calces. ^ 1 EXPLANATION OF TECHNICAL TERMS. 238 1 Oxygen The basis of pure or vital air, or the jerial acidifying principle. O.vi/inuriatic Acid or The dephlogistigated marine (or muriatic) acid Chlorine of Davy of Scheele, supposed by Berthollet to be ' muriatic acid combined with oxygen. | Phosphates Salts formed by phosphoric acid with different • bases. Phosphate of Tin A combination of that metal with phosphoric acid. Potass nr Potash Caustic vegetable alkali. j Prussic Acid The colouring matter of Prussian blue. 1 Prussiates Combinations of the Prussian colouring matter i with different bases. j Pyroligneous Acid The empyreumatic acid obtaind by distillation from wood, &c. Pyroliqnites ■ Combinations of the Pyroligneous acid with different bases. Soda One of the fixed alkalies in a caustic state — the basis of common or sea-salt. Substantive Colouring That which requires no basis or mordant to Matter give it lustre and permanency. Sulphates or Sulfates Salts formed by sulphuric or sulfuric acid with different bases. Sulpjhate of Alumiue Common alum. Sulphate of Copper A combination of that metal with sulphuric acid — blue vitriol. Sulphate of Indigo A solution of Indigo by sulphuric acid. ' Sulphate of Iron A combination of that metal with iron, called green vitriol or copperas. Sulphate of Zinc A combination of zinc with sulphuric acid. Sulphure or Sulpheret A combinatio7i of that metal with sulphur — of Antimony crude antimony. Tannin Vegetable matter by which skins are tanned or changed to leather. Tartrites Combinations of tartaric acid with different bases. I artrite of Alumiue Tartaric acid united to the earth of alum. Tart rite of Tin Tartaric acid in union with tin. 1 ., ■ V .: '■' '-i - *^ '•«■ V’ * ' ■ 5^.: • : r •'. ... - • * • ■ ' *■ • *• •■ ,.•**«' % , N ^ • • - ■ * * I ■ . '■.'■*-*• -• • ■ ' . ; ^ ' ■:? V > ■• . - ■’ ■ f ,, •A -.■ • < V. . - . ' * * 4 '* V ■ , .■ -•’• ' ■■ ''• * ^ 1 L « ♦,-r- : / V Coi\B- 3^lAL rP m 8f-J 235 )^ ««e F- • #■ k -