TRAVELS 
 
 ISTRIA AND DALMATIA, 
 
 DRAWN UP FROM THE ITINERARY 
 
 OF 
 
 L. F. CASSAS, 
 
 AUTHOR AND EDITOR OF THE FICTfRESQUE TRAVELS IN SYRIA, PHENi.CU, I'ALESTISF, 
 AND LOWER KGYIT. 
 
 JOSEPH LAVALLEE, 
 
 MEMBER OF THE POLYTECHNIC SOCIETY, 
 
 OF THE SOCIETY OF ARTS AND SCIENCES OF PARIS, OF TIIK 
 AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY OF THE SEINE AND MARNE, &C. 
 
 TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH. 
 
 LONDON: 
 printed tor RICHARD PHILLIPS, 6", bridge street, 
 
 BLACKFRIARS, 
 By J. G. Barnard, 57, Snoxu-kil>, 
 

 
 ■ 
 
PREFACE. 
 
 JL JIE motives which gave rise to the travels of M. Cassas 
 being stated in the second part of this work, it would be super- 
 fluous here to repeat them ; but the translator cannot refrain 
 from offering a few remarks on the utility of publishing the 
 researches of men of learning and talents, in countries once inha- 
 bited by people, the results of whose character and actions will 
 be felt by the latest posterity. 
 
 The monuments which have been respected for ages, anil 
 xvhose fragments cover the soil of Italy, afford a sublime subject 
 for meditation. Such remains of antiquity may be compared to 
 the history of great men who have paid the debt of nature ; and 
 at the expiration of twenty centuries, afford examples to suc- 
 ceeding generations, of the vices which disgraced them, or of the 
 tirtues by which they have been immortalized. 
 
 On considering the state of the inhabitants who now occupy the 
 scites of these celebrated ruins, we shall find a subject for reflec- 
 tion of no inferior importance. The inquisitive mind will derive 
 pleasure from examining in what degree the present race of men 
 resemble their celebrated predecessors ; what may have been the 
 cause of their degradation, or how far their manners, customs, 
 internal policy, or even prejudices, may resemble those of the 
 nations whom they have succeeded : in short, by such compari- 
 sons it will be ascertained whether the modern inhabitants possess, 
 as strangers or as heirs, those remains of ancient grandeur by 
 which they are surrounded. 
 
 In this respect travels in Istria and Dalmatia cannot fail to be 
 peculiarly interesting. — On the one side these countries preseut, 
 as it were, the skeleton of the Roman empire ; on the other, 
 particularly in Dalmatia, they exhibit a waudering and pastoral 
 

 
 
 IV 
 
 PREFACE. 
 
 horde, who perhaps have sunk progressively from an enlightened 
 to a savage state. In one part, for example, we behold the splen- 
 did remains of the masters of the world ; in another, a few igno- 
 rant tribes, living in obscurity and indigence. Here we see the 
 mouldering columns of the palaces of the Caesars ; there the 
 smoaky hut of the tasteless Haiduck ; the spacious baths once 
 appropriated to the use of beauty, and the infectious pallet of 
 straw on which the debased Dalmatian reposes, a stranger to the 
 endearments of conjugal affection. 
 
 In the course of his travels, M. Cassas made notes of every 
 remarkable circumstance which carne under his observation ; and 
 these have been arranged, corrected, and perhaps enlarged by the 
 JFrench Editor, from the literary part of the original volume. 
 This task, as appears by the title-page, which contains the only 
 information the translator possesses on the subject, devolved on 
 M. Joseph Lavallee, well known in the annals of modern French 
 literature, and a member of the Polytechnic Society of Paris. 
 
 The Editor of this edition thinks it necessary to state, that M. 
 Lavallee has made a very considerable addition to the literary 
 part of the original work, by an historical account of the countries 
 through which M. Cassas travelled ; — but as this is in a great degree 
 a compilation, and has no reference to the Itinerary, it has not 
 been included in the present translation ; though many interesting 
 passages have been selected from it, relative to the'manners and 
 customs of the inhabitants : these, however, were drawn up from 
 the notes of 1VL Cassas, and compared with the accounts oftlio.se 
 learned travellers, Spon and Fortis, with which they were found 
 in substance to correspond. 
 
 F. W. B, 
 
AN ITINERARY 
 
 FK0M 
 
 LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE, 
 IN SIXTY DAYS ; 
 
 (TAKEN I\ t THE SUITE OF HIS EXCELLENCY, THE BRITISH 
 AMBASSADOR TO THE OTTOMAN PORTE,) 
 
 IN THE YEAR 1794. 
 
 1 HE expedition with which this journey was accomplished, 
 necessarily precludes a minute description of the places through 
 which we passed. The general face of countries, the peculi- 
 arities of ecclesiastical buildings, and the dress of the inhabitants, 
 as they presented themselves to the eye, are the materials of 
 which this work is principally composed. Between London and 
 Vicuna, all the great towns have been accurately described in 
 various Tours and Gazetteers ; and in the subsequent sketches 
 nothing is collected from them. The few leisure hours which oc- 
 curred in this long journey were amused, by noting down subjects 
 immediately as they offered themselves, and as the opportunity sug- 
 gested. They are limited in every respect; yet may serve to 
 enliven, in a certain degree, the topographical precision which is 
 attempted, as the more valuable information. Beyond Vienna, 
 no accurate account of the stages has been hitherto published. 
 
 To those who are about to visit the Levant, it may be interest- 
 ing to learn from a preceding traveller the route they may take ; 
 the pleasure they may anticipate ; and the fatigue and danger 
 which they must encounter. 
 
 March 20, 1 794. London 
 Dartford 
 
 ITINERARY.] 
 
 Miles. 
 15. 
 
AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 We'll ft London at ten o'clock at night, and slept at Dartford. 
 The companions of our journey were Dr. S, professor of botany 
 at Oxford, and Mr. G. M. a very ingenious artist; both of whom 
 are since dead. 
 
 March 2 1 . 
 22. 
 23. 
 
 Dover 
 
 56 
 
 Sailed in a packet at two o'clock in the morning, under con- 
 voy of a frigate, Captain Lee. 
 
 24. 
 
 Becalmed. 
 
 25. 
 
 Opposite to the coast of Flanders, with the town of Nieuport 
 distinctly in our view. Landed at Ostend at five o'clock in the 
 afternoon. 
 
 INLANDERS, CIRCLE OE BURGUNDY. 
 
 The novelty of appearance of the people standing on the beach 
 was very amusing. They looked grotesque, compared with those 
 on our side of the water, with their sabots or wooden shoes, and 
 the head-dresses of the women large and angular, like those in 
 Holbein's portraits. Even those of the inferior class wore golden 
 crosses, which seemed to be with them a chief material ot hap- 
 piness. 
 
 The town is meanly built. In the church, which is large and 
 modern, there is some good sculpture in wood. 
 
 
 March 26. 
 At two P. M. 
 
 left Ostend. Posts. 
 
 Gastei. 
 
 Yebeck Bruges 3 
 Alter - - - 2 
 Ghent - - - 2 
 
 English Miles. 
 
 36 
 
 The country near the sea is flat, and mounded by high sand- 
 banks, with the fore-ground naked, and the horizon closed by 
 continued villages, low spires, and wind-mills. Near Gastei, at 
 seven miles distance, the landscape becomes^ more interesting ; 
 and it is remarkable, what very minute copyists the painters of 
 the Flemish school have been. The cultivation is excellent, but 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 3 
 
 totally unpicturesque. The paved roads, of many miles extent, 
 with plantations on either side, produce a tiresome effect, which 
 might have been easily avoided, if, instead of abruptly branching 
 off at right angles, they had been gradually incurvated. But that 
 would not have been consonant to the genius of this land of rules 
 and measures. Yebeck lies on the left hand, and exhibits all the 
 characteristics of a Flemish village. 
 
 At Bruges 5 P. M. 
 
 Our stay in this city was limited to two hours. An air of 
 stately sombreness pervades this spacious and well-built town. 
 Jn the great market-place is the Stadt-house, the tower of which 
 is a very lofty and curious structure; it is squat e for a very con- 
 siderable height, and where a spire is usual, another octangular 
 tower is placed upon it, almost as high ; but the effect is rather 
 surprising than beautiful. The cathedral is massive in all its parts, 
 and apparently ancient. In so slight a survey, I did not perceive 
 any ornament or style earlier than the time of our Henry VI. ; and 
 those matched with most incongruous additions. The Flemish 
 Gothic is scarcely less fanciful and void of beauty, than that in- 
 vented by English carpenters. The carillons or chimes played 
 by hand, are very musical : and their agreeable melody is heard 
 eight times in every hour during the day. 
 
 As we passed the gates of Bruges, at seven, the evening was 
 closing; and as the darkness increased, we lost sight of the coun- 
 try, and did not reach Ghent before one in the morning. 
 
 March 27. 
 
 Quadreght 
 
 Aloost 
 Asche 
 Brussels 
 
 Posts. 
 
 1 
 
 u 
 
 14 
 
 Flanders. 
 
 English Miles. 
 
 34. 
 
 Attended the early prayers in the cathedral, the internal deco- 
 ration of which is splendid in the extreme, with incorrect Gothic, 
 lined with pannels and pilasters of variegated marble, in the Italian 
 style. Rubens 's large pictuie of St. Bavon, one of his more ce- 
 lebrated works, eclipses the others which decorate the several 
 altar-pieces. The sculpture, which abounds, has as much excel- 
 lence of finishing, as inferiority of design. 
 
 B 2 
 
4 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 In the town of Ghent, the houses appear to be large and sin- 
 gularly placed, with one end turned to the street, and gardens 
 between each ;-— a circumstance which favours comfort and seclu- 
 sion, rather than magnificence. 
 
 Left Ghent at 10 A.M. 
 
 The surrounding flat country is as luxuriant and fertile, as 
 nature and cultivation can make it; the roads are wide and level, 
 but invariably straight. An hour at Aloost allowed us to see 
 ftubens's picture of St. Koch interceding with Christ for the 
 diseased of the plague, from which there is a print by P. Pontius. 
 It is much less brilliant in point of colouring, than is usual with 
 that great master. 
 
 The views become interesting by being broken into small 
 vallies. At half-a mile to the left stands the Benedictine convent 
 of AfHingham, the first we observed on the Continent. A large 
 modern church and whitened buildings surrounding it, commu- 
 nicated an idea very different from the ruined abbey and its ivy- 
 mantled walls— the picturesque and romantic were foreign to this 
 scene. By the clumsy and grotesque shape of all the carriages 
 which we met, we were greatly amused ; a stage-coach in Flan- 
 ders is an indescribable monster. Until the eye is in a certain 
 degree familiarized, the different forms of common utensils, and 
 the dress of the inhabitants, excite perpetual curiosity ; and where 
 more material objects, from want of opportunity, cannot be in- 
 spected, they agreeably supply the deficiency. 
 
 Flanders. 
 
 Arrived at Brussels at 4 P.M. 
 
 At the Hotel Belle-vue, an inn near the park, of such extent 
 and magnificence, as to appear like a deserted palace. The rooms- 
 are hung with crimson damask, and a bed in each. The greater 
 part of all large towns are alike, but the square, of which the 
 Archduke's palace forms an entire side, with the grand avenue to 
 the park, is, at least, not inferior to any thing in London. The 
 walks, parterre, and coffee-house, are very pleasant. When 
 Biiissels was besieged hy Marshal Villeroy, Q.50Q houses were 
 destroyed in 48 hours; but there are now no marks of so great a 
 calamity. Dumourier had quitted the city to the Austiians about 
 twelve months.' I observed no other proofs of his hostile visit, 
 excepting that the Imperial ensigns were universally defa< ed. In 
 the Old Town, which rises against a hill, the streets are irregular: 
 but the very neat architecture of the streets and parades already 
 mentioned, has a regular and splendid effect. 
 March G8. 
 
 Attended mass at the cathedral, the western facade of which 
 is flanked by two towers of rich Gothic, which may be com- 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 5 
 
 pared to those of York on a smaller scale. The windows, pin- 
 nacles, 8tc. much resemble those of St. Mary, liedeliffe, Bristol, 
 or any oilier fine specimen of the architecture of the fifteenth cen- 
 tury in England. The first view of the interior is truly striking. 
 Of the pictures, a few are good, but obscured by the silver altars 
 and the painted glass, which are dazzling, and distract the atten- 
 tion. Modern repairs and decorations have been conducted with 
 as little taste and propriety, as if they had been directed by an 
 English church-warden. 1 was more interested by the Gothic ca- 
 nopies and statues, contemporary with the original structure, and 
 some armorial portraits in stained glass. The greater part of that 
 which is so much admired in England, was made in the Low 
 Countries, or by Flemish artists, who were encouraged to settle 
 there. The organ accompanied the choir ; masses were celebrating 
 at several altars, and a Capuchin friar was preaching in the nave to 
 a very devout audience, with great energy, all at the same time. 
 The town house is a very remarkable Gothic structure, with a 
 central tower 3fi4 feet high, which has a rich effect. The diffi- 
 culty, or the expence of its construction, occupied forty-two years, 
 having been completed in 1442. in the distant outline of the ci- 
 ty, it is more commanding than from the towers of the cathedral. 
 The French army entered Brussels Nov. 14, 1792, soon after 
 the battle of Jemappe, and quitted it March 23, 179'>, after an 
 engagement near Louvaine. They regained complete possession 
 in 1794. 
 
 Left Brussels at 11 A. 
 
 Louvaine 
 Tirlemont 
 
 St. Tron 
 
 M. 
 
 Posts, 
 
 ■ 3 
 
 2 
 
 Q 
 
 Eudish Miles. 
 
 41 
 
 The rising grounds about Brussels are picturesque. On the 
 left, at a considerable distance, the new palace of the Duke 
 D'Aremburgh has a bold elevation, and terminates a line avenue. 
 It displays a grand front, with a circular projection in the centre, 
 finished by a lofty cupola. The landscape becomes very rich in 
 chateaus and village-spires. Throughout Flanders, the roads 
 are made with the greatest care, with a double plantation on 
 either side, and the low hills levelled by ravines cut through them 
 at a vast expence. The first view of Louvaine through one of 
 these, is very pleasing. 
 
 At Louvaine, we could only wait one hour. It is a very ill- 
 built city, compared with Brussels, and not much embellished by 
 
^^B 
 
 6 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 the university j which is said to consist of forty-three colleges. An 
 Irish student shewed me the college established by Pope Pius 
 VI. which has one large quadrangle, not equal to many at Ox- 
 ford and Cambridge. The number of residents exceeds 1 100. 
 The whole ecclesiastical patronage of the Netherlands originally 
 granted to the university by the Popes, has been resumed by 
 Joseph II. as one of his acts of reformation. I can imagine 
 Louvaine to be much like Oxford two centuries ago. The 
 gentleman told me, that the stipend of the foundationers, after 
 taking a degree, did not exceed 100 florins (I Gl.) per -aim. ; but 
 their maintenance is supplied. Their dress is a loose coat, with 
 small buttons and full skirts; a long vest, of silk, sewed to the 
 shoulders, blue band, and even-sided corked hat, v. 'ith short hair. 
 The fortifications, said to have an extent of four or live miles, in 
 almost a complete circle, are ruinous and imperfect. Joseph [I. 
 found them universally neglected,, and, by an ill-judged economy, 
 suffered them to fall into total decay, by applying the funds for 
 their maintenance to other purposes. But for this circumstance, 
 the French could not have sained such advantages in the begin- 
 ning of the war, in the Netherlands, which were half conquered 
 in the minds of the people. 
 
 In the centre of the town of Louvaine, stands the Court- 
 House, or Maison de Fille, which is a most curious specimen of 
 the florid Gothic of the last school in England, where it must 
 have been borrowed from Flanders. It is much larger than 
 Henry VTI.'s Chapel, and, if possible, more elaborately wrought. 
 The roof is not concealed by a parapet, bat extremely high, and 
 studded with small turrets, or lanterns, corresponding with the 
 style of the whole. I had not time to see the inside, or indeed 
 several other works of art, which are well worthy inspection. 
 
 Gothic architecture in Flanders, when applied to the towers of 
 these Court-Houses, as at Brussels, is peculiar and beautiful. A 
 single shaft, circular, and resembling a large pinnacle, is carried 
 up with nearly equal dimensions, to a great height, and tilletted at 
 certain distances, with projecting galleries, the parapets of which 
 are perforated and embattled, and produce an extreme richness. 
 This striking accompaniment is deficient at Louvaine. 
 
 The antiquarian traveller, who has seen the views of Henry 
 the Seventh's palaces at Richmond and Nonsuch, will have a clear 
 idea of the ornaments used in the architecture of an early period 
 in the Low Countries. 
 
 The cathedral resembles several in England, as its plan is 
 simple, and the building uniform. Two massive and lofty 
 towers, without parapets, flank the western front. Their sin- 
 gular appearance is occasioned by their having formerly served as 
 the bases of three spires, which were blown down in i(i04, 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE, 7 
 
 That in the centre exceeded 560 feet, and the two others were, 
 each c^" them, more than half that height. 
 
 The country between Louvaine and St. Tron, beyond Terle- 
 mont, resembles, with its neat white cottages and small inclo- 
 snres, that part of Gloucestershire in which the manufacture of 
 cloth is established. 
 
 Reached St. Tron at ten at night. 
 
 A vile town, where we slept, with poor accommodations, as 
 the inn was prc-occupiod by a Hanoverian regiment. So near 
 as the road led to the French lines, this was the first appearance 
 of war. Some trifling devastations, indeed, were observable 
 where they had passed. Armorial ensigns were defaced, crosses 
 overthrown and broken, and some trees in the road-avenues cut 
 down and burned. 
 
 March 2Q, Q A. M. 
 
 Tongres 
 .Liege 
 Foron 
 Aix-la-Chapeile 
 
 Posts. 
 
 n 
 
 n 
 
 o 
 
 Circle of Westphalia. 
 
 Ensilisl) Miles. 
 
 54 
 
 Near Tongros the roads lead through extensive and well-culti- 
 vated plains, but uniuclosed. The skirting line, otherwise regu- 
 lar, is pleasantly broken by village spires, chateaus, and convents. 
 As a singularity in the architecture, at least to the eye of an Eng- 
 lishman, so accustomed to battlements and pinnacles, all the 
 towers, either of castles or churches, are finished by sharp coni- 
 cal roofs, or obtuse spires, covered with thin slate of different 
 colours. It was necessary, in order to pass the Meuse, to go 
 from Tongres to Maestricht or Liege, in our road to Aix. 
 Near the last-mentioned, the ground becomes irregular, but 
 not abrupt, and the slopes are clothed with low brush- 
 wood. The descent to the town, for more than a mile, is steep. 
 On the right, is a large convent, and the bishop's palace. The 
 suburbs, where we rested but a short time, are narrow and ill- 
 built. The beggars were impudent and insatiable; and the women 
 we saw, positively ugly. The latter wear a small, close head -piece 
 of silk, without lace, concealing all the hair and exposing the ears. 
 Beauty itself would have much to contend with in such a fashion. 
 Ascending the opposite hill, the view of Liege is interesting, as 
 the whole city, both on the acclivities and in the vale, is now seen, 
 yet uncharacterised by any great or splendid building, excepting 
 
S AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 the cathedral : I speak of them only in a bird's eye view ; for of 
 the very numerous churches and convents, some are described as 
 beautiful. Several bridges over the Meuse afforded pretty 
 catches of that low, sedgy river, with its windings under precipi- 
 tate acclivities, which close in the romantic valley of Spa, so 
 much frequented on account of its gay society and salutary waters. 
 
 Three regiments of Hanoverians detained us, on their march to 
 the frontiers. The men were certainly weli clothed and ap- 
 pointed, but they looked sulky, as mercenaries uninterested in 
 their employment. In the streets of Brussels and Liege were 
 crowds of emigrants, with many shabby coats and red ribands of 
 St. Louis. They would have excited commiseration, had not 
 their air, in general, been insolent and unfeeling; none of that 
 decent acquiescence was to be discovered, which dignifies hard 
 fortune. 
 
 Advancing a few miles nearer to Foron, the prospect gradually 
 improves; the woodlands and winding vallies at the base of very 
 steep banks reminded me of many parts of Gloucestershire. 
 The course of the Meuse, like the Severn, is seen for a con- 
 siderable distance; many of the objects are strikingly similar to 
 England, especially in the neighbourhood of the Spa. The 
 good roads are now passed ; but, considering the meagre cattle 
 and the rope-harness, we made a fair progress, about five miles 
 an hour. No animal in Europe of its size has more strength 
 than a Flemish horse, and none so ungovernable as their postil- 
 lions, but dexterous enough. 
 
 Arrived at Aix-la-Chapelle, or Achen, at 9 P- M. 
 
 March 30. 
 
 Juliers - 
 Berchem 
 Cologne 
 Bonn 
 
 Posts. 
 
 n 
 i 
 
 H 
 
 H 
 
 Westphalia. 
 
 English Miles. 
 
 52 
 
 We rested at a very large inn, and stopped in a spacious room, 
 in which the four plenipotentiaries met to conclude the treaty of 
 Aix, in 1748. It had the peculiarity of having four doors exactly 
 opposite, so contrived that by their entering the room upon a 
 signal given, all at the same time, no interference could be made 
 with the precedence claimed by either. Our ambassador was the 
 late Earl of Sandwich. The German towns are crowded with 
 nuisances, as our old English cities formerly were, before the 
 modern spirit of accommodating the public prevailed to the pre- 
 sent extent. They lose infinitely by comparison with those of 
 
LONJ)ON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 'J 
 
 Flanders. Aix is very large, populous, and incommodious 
 The architectural form of the cathedral baffles all description 1 
 is indeed totally unlike any other, as it has no length of nave or 
 transept. The choir is a vast octagon of disproportionate height, 
 but of the most elaborate finishing, and crowded with every par- 
 ticle of rich Gothic. It was made more striking by the celebra- 
 tion of high mass. At that time, the mausoleum of the Emperor 
 Charles V. Mas entire, and the marble columns, its chief boast, 
 had not been included in the spoil, afterwards transported to 
 Paris. The situation of Aix, no less than the hot baths, of 
 nearly equal celebrity on the continent, reminded us greatly of 
 Bath, surrounded by lofty hills. 
 
 Between Aix and .luliers, the straight road is conducted through 
 a wide tract of woodland and forest scenery. Farther on, the 
 same spreading corn-fields recur, and the bounding distances are 
 more bold and irregular. J uliers affords a specimen of a modern 
 fortification upon Vauban's system. From a considerable emi- 
 nence, Cologne (Colonia Aggrippina or Ubiorum) is first seen at 
 live miles distance, situated in the centre of an extensive and 
 verdant plain. 
 
 This north-eastern view of Cologne extends for a great length, 
 and is marked by <20() lofty spires or towers, with the cathedral as 
 the most prominent feature. High lands surround it, and on the 
 west side are serrated mountains above the Rhine. Between this 
 point of view, and that of the University of Oxford from Botley 
 Hill, there is a resemblance so strong as to bring either scene 
 immediately to the recollection of those who have seen both. 
 During our pas *age through Cologne, I observed little to retriete 
 it from the general character of German towns. It has no suburbs, 
 but a lower town fortified, called Dayh, nearer the Rhine. The 
 cathedral is of curious Moorish architecture. Our Charles H. 
 passed the last two years of his exile at Cologne, peferring it to 
 any other residence at that time in his power. 
 
 The French army entered Cologne, October G, 1794, after 
 the defeat of General Clairfayt. 
 
 As we looked back on this large and once celebrated city, it 
 exhibited a fortification of more than sixty bastions and towers, 
 such as were frequent in the provincial towns in England, three 
 centuries ago, with embattled gates. Upon these numerous 
 towers are placed sharp conical roofs, instead of battlements, by 
 which they are degraded to the appearance of windmills. A de- 
 gree of elevation relieves the landscape from this point, which, 
 notwithstanding, would make a very stiff picture. 
 
 At Weysing (five miles distant) [ caught the first sight of the 
 Rhine, which is here very bold and smooth, with winding and 
 flat shores, willowed to the brink. This small village, ou arising 
 
 I T I N E K A B Y .] C 
 
^^M^^^^^^M 
 
 
 ■■■ 
 
 10 
 
 AN lTIXnnAUY FROM 
 
 ground, commands it on cither side. The evening - now was 
 closing, and by the lime it became perfectly dark, we entered the 
 gates of Bonn. There was something particularly romantic in 
 the ceremony of opening the gates, with the grating of the hinges 
 and the draw-bridge, and the winding of the bugle-horn, which 
 the postillions blew, as if in triumph, as they passed under arches. 
 Circumstances of ancient chivalry immediately presented them- 
 selves to mv mind. 
 
 March 3 1 . 
 
 Posts. 
 
 At Bonn (Ah Uhiorum) 
 Remangen - - - - L 
 Andreuacht - - - - 1| 
 
 English Miles. 
 
 26' 
 
 We were received at " La Conr d'Angleterrc," which is a 
 very splendid hotel. The rooms, which are spacious and lofty, 
 are all furnished with beds. The apparent advantage which the 
 inns on the Continent have over those in England in point of 
 extent and rich furniture, is totally lost in that of comfort. It is 
 true, that the St. Sebastian at Ghent, the Cour Jmperiale at 
 Aix, and this at Bonn, are palaces; but the attendants are negli- 
 gent in the extreme. When sitting down to sumptuous courses, 
 we were waited on by one clumsy girl — a contrast more ludicrous 
 than convenient. The host never makes his appearance. The- 
 head-dress of the lower rank of women in this part of Germany, 
 exceeds every idea of ugliness. Their heads appear to be closely 
 shorn, and their ears are not concealed. The men are habited 
 much as in England. 
 
 As the streets of Bonn perpetually intersect each other, and 
 are very narrow and awkwardly built, it must therefore rest its 
 chief claim on its beautiful situation. The Elector's palace at- 
 tracts all strangers. His proper residence is at Cologne, but 
 constant disputes witli the burghers induced one of his predeces- 
 sors to remove his court to this place. It is certain that the 
 Austrian family are universally unpopular; their exactions are 
 oppressive and submitted to with a very ill grace. Had the 
 French treated the religious opinions of the people with respect, 
 no power could have dispossessed them of the Austrian ter- 
 ritory; for otherwise the inhabitants were not displeased with 
 iheir conduct. 
 
 The repairs necessary for the carriages gave us leisure to visit 
 the Elector's palace and gardens. It was built by Joseph Cle- 
 ment, in the beginning of this century, and spreads to a great 
 extent ; it can boast no architectural beauty independently of mere 
 magnitude, and oae of the win^s is still incomplete. A most 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 IT 
 
 striking amphitheatre expands in front, formed by il»e mountains 
 fust seen above Cologne, ever) point of which is embellished by 
 natmal or artificial features; 
 
 At five P. M. left Bonn. 
 
 The road leads nearly through the centre of an enchanting 
 valley, with the Rhine on the left. At about two miles distance, 
 the hills on cither side are hi ok.cn into many eminences of parallel 
 height and conical form, shrouded to their summits with low 
 Mood and vincVards. On the right, above a summer palace of 
 the Elector, is the large convent of Leibenburgen, a white build- 
 ing, of a very capricious form. Advancing a mile or more, at an 
 elegant Gothic cross (not unlike one of those erected by Edward 
 1. in honour of his queen) a rich and luxuriant view is presented, 
 the great feature of which, with its accompaniments, though far 
 superior, immediately reminded me of, Goodrich Castle, on the 
 river Wye. The summit of an insulated mount is intirely oc- 
 cupied by the ruins of the castle of Gutesburg, and its acchvitii s 
 are covered with the matted foliage of low trees. Many yards 
 above the others, the Pharos, or round watch-tower, is seen rising 
 in the exact centre, and is clustered with the other dilapidated 
 buildings, the apertures of which affording a thorough light, 
 gave a most romantic effect to the whole. It is, indeed, a superb 
 fastness, more from the complete elevation of every part, than its 
 great extent. Passing through the village which it overhangs, it 
 assumes more grandeur, and seems to have been impregnably 
 strong, when it sustained the memorable seige by Gerrard de 
 Tousehes. Beyond the village are some large houses lately built 
 by the Elector for the company frequenting the mineral waters, 
 which Mrs. Kadclifte, (p. ISO) describes as a most pleasing re- 
 sort. The road now stretches for many miles along the shores 
 of the Rhine, under sharp precipices of brown rock, or shelving 
 head-lauds planted with vineyards. On the opposite side, are 
 several populous villages, distinguished by their low spires of 
 slate, and situated at the base of the many serrated hills, which 
 are remarkable for naked crags or dilapidated towers, of the most 
 romantic shape. The twilight, which at first threw a mild tint 
 over them, now hid them in obscurity, and imagination only 
 could picture those beauties, which reality had so much more 
 happily supplied. At two in the morning, arriving at Andre- 
 nacht, we retired to rest. 
 
 April 1. 
 
 
 Electoral Circle.. 
 
 
 Posts. English Miles. 
 
 Coblentz - 
 
 - 1 — - 
 
 Montebaur 
 
 - u — 
 
 Limburg 
 
 - U 39 
 
 
 C 2 
 
12 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 This town, the frequent scone of military transactions, was once 
 surrounded by for tin" cations and a large castle, now reduced to 
 ruins, several towers of which, with Moorish brackets and battle- 
 ments, are still perfect, and resemble those of Conway, in North 
 W ales. The whole view, from the point we were quitting, Mas 
 extremely pleasing. So bold are the shores of the Rhine, and 
 so lively its maritime accompaniments, with bare rocks and 
 mountains upon so majestic a scale, that the Wye. picturesque as 
 it is, will fail in comparison. — The Rhine is rarely less than COO 
 yards across, and villages with their ports are frequent on its 
 banks. I had time to examine the church at Andrenacht. It 
 has four towers of exact resemblance to each other; those of the 
 "western front being the more lofty in a small degree. r J he nave 
 is long and dark. Jn the upper tier of the towers are open ar- 
 cades, or galleries of circular arches, and obtuse slated spires. 
 Ecclesiastic ediiices in this part of Germany are strictly similar, 
 and partake of the. Moorish and Gothic styles, with respect to 
 open galleries on the inside, circular terminations of the choirs, 
 small unclustered pillars and flourished capitals. The Moorish 
 style was introduced by the Spaniards during their dominion in 
 these provinces. Of military buildings I osberved that the towers 
 were generally circular, with an escalloped bracket projecting 
 but slightly ; and instead of battlements, a plain parapet and 
 conical roof, which hurts the eye, and has a poor effect. — By their 
 ruins only were we reminded of those, which add in so great a 
 degree to the picturesque beauty of English landscape. 
 
 Leaving the Rhine, the country grows more campaign and 
 open, with unbounded corn fields, sometimes varied bv villages 
 and convents, the spires of which are all alike, but they have 
 universally great advantages of situation. Upon our left, the 
 modern house of Count Newyck attracted our attention, as we 
 seldom saw that description of building called gentlemen's seats, 
 since we had begun our journey. 
 
 At Coblentz ( Cortftuetltes), the junction of the Rhine and 
 Moselle, 10 o'clock, A. M. 
 
 The approach is truly interesting, as we crossed the bridge 
 over the Moselle. Nothing can exceed in grandeur the view of 
 the rock and castle of Elm mbreitstein, the ancient residence of 
 the Elector of Treves. The city has no splendour, at least, in the 
 streets, which are irregular and narrow. A great curiosity is 
 Avhat is called the flying bridge. Two large boats are fastened 
 together, and a platform placed over them with a cable fixed to 
 the mast, and connected m ith several small boats placed higher 
 upon the Rhine. The rudder turns it, and it is then moved by 
 the current. From the quay, the perpendicular rock with the 
 extensive fortress irfcareases in effect, truly stupendous. At the 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 is 
 
 base, is a spacious modern edifice, the second palace of the 
 Elector in point of antiquity, but being damp and incommodious, 
 the present Prince has built another, on the opposite side. It is 
 of the Doric order, and makes a handsome appearance. There is 
 a motto placed in the front, which is happily chost n, as the in- 
 habitant is hospitable and liberal. 
 
 " Clemens Winccsluus Vicinis suis." 
 
 Ascending the hill as rapidly as possible, we gained a bird's-eve 
 view of the city, with the church built in the Moorish stvle, and 
 Ehrenbreitstein now became level with the collateral heights. 
 The outworks and bastions are on a vast scale, and the towers, of 
 a modern form, are ingrafted in tin: solid rock, several hundred 
 feet on the side above 'lie river. In the annals of the late war, 
 the siege of this casu.. will be distinguished as a most surprising 
 event, whether we prefer the valour and perseverance of the 
 besiesrers, or the prudence and patience of the besieged, hit desti- 
 tute of succour. Ehrenbreitstein had formerly been considered 
 as the impregnable safeguard of the imperial territory. 
 
 The deep dells, with sides of bare rock, of the schistous kind, 
 the hanging vinevsrds and woodlands, or heath, were principal 
 objects till we came to wide, unpicturesque plough-lands, and the 
 town of Montebaur, where is an insulated rock, crested with a 
 castle, modem and perfect. About a mile from Limburg, we 
 saw the great church, which is founded on the cliff above the 
 river Lahn. The western front is a copy of those before de- 
 scribed, but it has likewise a taller spire between the nave and 
 choir, which is open on the inside as a louvre, and two small ones 
 on the north transept: so that they make a grove of sharp angles 
 in the elevation. In these travelling notes, minute circumstances 
 become important. The German cookery is in general good, 
 exceptiug that in most of their dishes they are fond of a strong 
 flavour, either of sweet or sour. But what they consider as 
 sleeping luxuriously, 1 could not reconcile to my own feelings. I 
 was placed between two feather-beds, the upper one of eyder- 
 down, enclosed in a case similar to that of a pillow, turned up at 
 the bottom ; for a German, in sleeping", keeps his head and feet 
 equally cool and exposed. 
 
 April '2. 
 
 Wirgcs 
 Keeuigstein 
 1 rankfort 
 
 Post; 
 
 
 IIf.sse Cassel. 
 
 English Miles'. 
 
 S8 
 
14 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 The ground about Limburg, in our progress, rises very higrr, 
 afforded very distant views, and the landscape is brokeu into pro- 
 montories, which are frequently covered by a convent or a castle. 
 In a small valley we passed Seltz, so well known for its mineral 
 >vaters, which contribute equally to health and luxury, when 
 mixed with Rhenish wine. There are few buildings near the 
 spring, excepting a pump-room and a large warehouse, with 
 many heaps oi stone jars for sale. The price of one of these was 
 seven kreutzers (2$d.) at the spring. Leaving this small fortified 
 village, we gained a wooded eminence of many miles in extent, 
 and abounding in the grandest forest seeneiy. On either side 
 were dells abrupt and deep, with rivulets opening to the most 
 verdant meadows. The first appearance of spring was now per- 
 ceptible, the foliage was far advanced, though incomplete, and 
 under a bright sun the catching lights were beautiful. Many of 
 the landscapes of Wilson and Gainsborough resemble this scenery. 
 J he scale of objects is certainly larger than in England, and thft 
 component parts have more magnitude in every feature without a 
 diminution of beauy. lu the effect we find grandeur, rather 
 than prettiness. 
 
 At Kcenigstcin about mid-day. 
 
 This village and fortress were taken in the year 1 79>, by the 
 French, whom the Prussians forced to evacuate, and they then 
 burned the village, under pretence of having favoured their 
 enemies. This universal desolation gave us a clear idea of the 
 honors of war in the countries where it is carried on. The 
 solitary post-house was the only inhabited dwelling in the village, 
 and which could afford us no refreshment. The road was execra- 
 bly bad through a grove of oaks, which their excessive size ren- 
 dered almost impervious. From the hill we had a first view of 
 Frankfort (Melenopolis) but exhibiting no bold appearance or 
 magnificent feature, whilst the amphitheatre of wooded moun- 
 tains behind us, rose very majestically. 
 
 We entered the gates of Frankfort on the Maine, at 7 P. M. 
 after having exhausted twelve hours in thirty-eight miles, in the 
 German " .Station" are two English miles and one-tenth part, 
 so that a post may be averaged at eight miles and a half English. 
 A very troublesome interruption in travelling through the Ger- 
 man states, is the frequent change of the current coin. x\t the 
 barriers, which are like our turnpikes, the demand is very dispro- 
 portionate; and at every " station" or stage, our carriages were 
 surrounded by people, claiming " gmeargeldt," or money, for 
 greasing the wheels, which they vociferously demanded, wnetbei 
 ihe operation was applied or not. 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 15 
 
 April 3. 
 
 Hauau 
 Dettingen - 
 
 Aschaiieubursj 
 
 Palatinate. 
 
 Posts. Eugtish M-tle*. - 
 1 — 
 
 1 — 
 
 Q§ 27 I 
 
 We were lodged at the " Ilotlic Haas," (Maiwn Rvttge) said 
 to be the largest inn in Europe, it consists of' an extensive 
 square, and another beyond it, of stables, with a garden. 1/hc 
 apartments are really handsome, and tire accommodations superior 
 to any we had hitherto experienced. It fronts .the widest street, 
 which is magnificently buiit, and forms a strong contrast to the 
 others, most of which arc close and thronged with people, whose 
 commercial bustle is incessant. Frankfort is one of the richest 
 cities in Germany. In the street above-mentioned we went to 
 see the house of a merchant then building, which in stile and 
 dimensions equalled that of any nobleman in London. Others 
 are splendid and costly, but in a heavy taste. They paint die 
 stucco walls of their houses in this part of Germany, on the out- 
 side, so as to represent pilasters aud other architectural ornaments 
 of red or grey marble. As each floor forms a distinct habitation, 
 the whole to the street appears to be one immense house. 
 - Left Frankfort at 4 P M. 
 
 The surrounding country is a vast unpicturesque flat, in which 
 orchards are numerous, aud the Maine is wide and circuitous, 
 with tame shores. The boats are navigated by means of horses, 
 as upon artificial canals. We then traversed the plains of Det- 
 tingen, famous for the victory gained on the lGth June, 174.J, by 
 George If. m person, of which he was always pleased to con- 
 verse ; and what will render it more memorable, for which Han- 
 del composed his Te Deum. 
 
 At Aschaffenburg, 12 at night, by moonlight. 
 
 April 4. 
 
 
 
 Fkanconia 
 
 Posts. 
 
 English Miles. 
 
 Bessenbach - - 0| 
 
 
 — 
 
 Rohbrun - - - 1 
 
 
 — 1 
 
 Fsselbach - - 1 
 
 
 — 
 
 Langfert - - - 0\ 
 
 
 — 
 
 \\ "urtzburg - - 2£ 
 
 
 57k 
 
 This small town has an easy ascent above tho Maine. The 
 palace of the Elector of Mentz is a sumptuous edifice of li^ht 
 

 16 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 red stone, rising from a tenace with four high towers at the an- 
 gles, us many complete fronts of .'300 feet in length, inclosing 
 a quadrangle, with cloisters. There are apartments sufficient 
 for his numerous officers of stale, and some line suits of rooms, 
 which the early hour prevented our seeing. One tower only of 
 the ancient fortress is preserved, the rest has not been finished 
 more than a century, in 1?4.'1, the English army held their head- 
 quarters in this town, before the battle of Dettingen was 
 fought. 
 
 At 6 .A.M. we left Aschaffenburg, and as we came nearer 
 to the source of the Manic, it was more diversified and inte- 
 resting; the shores luxuriant at the brink, and rising very boldly 
 abo*e many a winding valley of delicate verdure. After a gra- 
 dual ascent we found ourselves in the forest of Spesserwald, 
 inclosed within an oak fence of 12 leagues in extent. Shades so 
 impenetrable afford secure covert for the stag, wild boar, and 
 roebuck in great abundance, which are thus reserved for the 
 Elector's hunting. Avenues sometimes narrow, but always 
 gloomy, are cut through in various directions for the roads. The 
 romantic descriptions of the chase and banditti, in which the 
 German poets excel, are realized, at least, in appropriate 
 scenery. A great number of these primeval oaks are in a state 
 of decay. 
 
 A mile before Langfert, upon an acclivity above the Maine* 
 is the grand convent of Trifenstein. So modern and white are 
 the buildings, that it seemed to be a number of large houses 
 clustered together, rather than an ecclesiastical structure. We 
 judge of abbeys in England only from their remains, and con- 
 nect them always with ideas of antiquity and Gothic architecture- 
 
 The town of Langfert is surrounded by craggy hills planted 
 with vines, which produce a kind of wine of the Rhenish flavour. 
 We passed the ferry over the Maine, about sixty yards across ; 
 and from a considerable eminence, we were gratified by many 
 charming views of the river, which, towards the upper parts, be- 
 comes exceedingly picturesque. 
 
 At 8 P. M. we found ourselves at the gates of Wurtz- 
 
 April 5. 
 
 Kizengen - 
 
 Passenheim 
 
 Langenfeldt 
 
 Posts. 
 
 u 
 
 I 
 J 
 
 Circle of Franconia. 
 
 English Mile*. 
 3& 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 17 
 
 We surveyed the city, which has many handsome appendages ; 
 rs the public buildings are numerous and splendid, and the houses 
 in general commodious. The Bishop's Palace is a very spacious 
 edifice; having a principal front of great elevation and extent, 
 with a profusion of statues and pillars, heavy, but imposing in 
 effect; yet the smaller ornaments of architecture are abundant and 
 tasteless. It was designed by Roberr de Cotte, a French architect 
 of great celebrity. In the garden-front there is a greater simpli- 
 city. Before Fischers, the Germans could boast no architect of ta- 
 lent, and several other electoral palaces were also built from 
 French designs. — 1 had not before seen so complete a specimen 
 of the art of gardening in Germany. Groupes of large images 
 totally below any idea of statuary, parterres, bowers of lime-trees 
 with correspondent alleys, compose the fantastic pleasure- 
 grounds, which are peopled to imitate the Elysian Fields; but to 
 the utter defiance of classical propriety, with groupes, busts, and 
 single figures, beyond arrangement or number. The terrace upon 
 the ramparts commands a fine view, with the citadel of Marien- 
 burg crowning a promontory, the convent of Capuchins, and the 
 amphitheathre of vine-clad hills with the Maine spreading boldly 
 at their base. Of the public buildings, the chief are the college 
 of Nobles, that of the Jesuits, and the hospital. The tower of 
 the great church is of light Gothic, ending in an open cupola upon 
 Corinthian arcades and pillars. The internal decorations are 
 clumsy; and multiplied, in small parts, to confusion and absolute 
 deformity : there is scarcely a single pillar which is unappropriated 
 to a shrine. The high-altar and its furniture are blazoned with 
 massive silver, and in the nave is a long series of the sepulchral 
 effigies of bishops. 
 
 Other edifices are heavy imitations of the French rather than 
 the Palladian style. There are colleges of the Nobility of either 
 sex, and the indispensable condition of being admitted, is the pro- 
 ducing a coat of arms of sixteen quarters; which implies (other- 
 wise than with the English heralds) that as many legitimate de- 
 scents should be proved, eight of each parent, and all of noble 
 families. This proof is seldom difficult; as the patronage is con- 
 fined to a few houses, and oilers a most valuable provision to the 
 younger branches. The. present (1794) superior of the Female 
 Canons is a venerable old lady of ninety-five. A small chapter of 
 St. Burgate (peculiar to Germany) wear habits of scarlet cloth. 
 Over the Maine is a bridge of several arches, with Colossal sta- 
 tues placed on each pier, like the Ponte St. Angelo at Rome, 
 which it is intended to imitate. 
 
 At the distance of a mile from Wurtzburg we mounted a steep 
 hill, whence a boundless prospect was open to us, upon a grand 
 scale in every part: we then passed through highly-cultivated 
 
 ITINERARY.] U 
 
m—m 
 
 
 H 
 
 is 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 fields, level and dull; and the village-spires became more scarce 
 and disagreeable, being of red tile. Passing through the village of 
 Reppendorff, near Kizengen, we met the Emperor upon his route 
 to the army in the Netherlands. His coach was drawn by the 
 common post-horses ; two valets sat on the coach-box; and his 
 brothers, the Archdukes Charles and Joseph, accompanied him. 
 Another carriage only, in which was Prince Colloredo, followed, 
 but without couriers or guards. He appeared to be fatigued and 
 pensi\e, and much engaged in reflections on this event fid period. 
 We had before seen detached parties of his .suite. Several wag- 
 gons, some of which were drawn by fourteen horses, were convey- 
 ing ammunition to the Imperial army from Vienna, through roads 
 almost impassable, with the most vexatious delays, and at an enor- 
 mous expence. — At Kizengen we staid but a short time: nothing 
 caa be more odious than the roofs of red tiles which occupy the 
 whole view. We slept at [jangenfeldt, which is a poor country- 
 town. — The dress of the peasants in the different provinces 
 through which we passed, even our rapid journey allowed us to 
 observe with consult foible amusement. Near Cologne, the 
 women wear a kerchief of linen, with a low falling collar and 
 slashed sleeves, as seen in the figures of peasants by artists of the 
 Planish school. As it was a holiday or fair at Langeufeldt, many 
 girls were assembled. They wore their hair collected in a bunch 
 behind, broad hats with shallow crowns, linen-jackets, and red 
 petticoats, reaching only to several inches above the knees, blue 
 stockings as far below them with red clocks, and very strong 
 wooden shoes. 
 
 April 6. 
 
 Emkirchen 
 Furnbacb 
 
 Niirembui"; 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 1 
 
 CIRCLE OF FRANCONIA. 
 
 English Miles. 
 
 30. 
 
 We left Langenfeldt at an early hour, and passed through a 
 cold country, — the highlands of Germany, remarkable only for 
 neat agriculture and hop-grounds. That useful plant is cultivated 
 here as much as in England; and is used in making a strong white 
 beer, which is probably the barley-wine invented by the ancient 
 Germans, and which is mentioned by the Roman historians, and 
 even praised by the Emperor Julian in one of his Greek epigrams. 
 We reached the city of Nuremburg at 4 p. in. ; and were lodged 
 at the " posthaus," an old inn with galleries round a court, of 
 «iany years stauding. The streets are in general very narrow, 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 19 
 
 and the houses lofty; the fronts of the latter being painted with 
 gigantic figures supporting the roof, or sometimes with landscapes 
 of extremely rude execution. There are two capacious churches. 
 The spires of the larger are in a good style of Gothic, and are 
 light and airy. The arcade of the great door is embellished with 
 numerous bas-reliefs of scriptural subjects, of delicate sculpture, 
 and as highly finished as if of bronze. Within are heavy modern 
 galleries, two organs larger than those of any of our cathedrals, 
 and a single crucifix many feet high standing before the altar; 
 which is all that the Lutheran rubricjk allows of. 
 
 Nuremburg is the Birmingham of Germany; but certainly in- 
 ferior in the variety and ingenuity displayed in its toys. The best 
 wire for musical instruments, and the most perfect inventions in 
 clock-work, will be found at Nuremburg. There too the art of 
 printing was established soon after its discovery; and the founder- 
 ies for types were celebrated as early as the fifteenth century. 
 
 April 7. 
 
 Feiicht 
 Postbaur - 
 Tenningen 
 Pursburg - 
 Labor 
 Ratisbon - 
 
 Posts. 
 
 1 
 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 
 CIRCLE OF BAVARIA. 
 English Miles 
 
 GO. 
 
 Before sun-rise we pursued our route from Nuremburg. The 
 road at first leads through avenues in a forest of fir-trees, and 
 a deep sandy soil; but breaks beyond Potsbaur into charming di- 
 versity of ground and forest scenery. One advantage which these 
 pine-groves have over those in England, considered picturesquely, 
 is, that they are seen in every stage of growth and foliage; with 
 us, the trees are all usually planted at onetime, and the exposure 
 of the trunks always produce an ugly effect. 
 
 * NigrS. nanus abiete cingunt." 
 
 VlKG. iEn. viii. 596. 
 
 As we advanced, the view was bounded by a ridge, breaking 
 abruptly at each of its terminations: upon one of which were the 
 ruins of a castle; on the other a neatly-built monastery, with its 
 white taper spire, aud the scene variegated with rocks and fir- 
 groves. 
 
 D 2 
 

 
 20 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 As we continued our journey beyond Potsbaur,we were under 
 the necessity of proceeding as far as Ratisbon, where we did not 
 arrive till four in the morninsr. 
 
 April 8. 
 
 Ptader 
 
 Straubing - 
 
 Posts. 
 
 - li 
 
 - li 
 
 CIRCLE OF BAVARIA 
 English Miles. 
 
 30. 
 
 At Ratisbon, or J\e%enahurg,( Regina Augusta Tiberia.) the 
 same style of lofty buildings, with narrow incommodious streets, 
 prevails, as in other cities which we had before seen, which are not 
 enlivened by commerce, and have an appearance of great dullness. 
 The Diet-hall of the LCmpire has antiquity only to recommend it; 
 being greatly inferior, both in size and beauty, to many halls in 
 England, particularly that of Westminster, and Christ-church 
 Oxford. The cathedral is well worthy of examination ; all its 
 parts being of regular architecture, and probably of cotemporary 
 erection. The western facade, and the towers, are enriched with 
 pannels and arches of the florid Gothic, resembling those at Brus- 
 sels; and the great portal is not less profusely and elaborately sculp- 
 tured than that at Nuremburg. There is a strict correspondence 
 of parts in the interior view, which exhibits the true proportions 
 and the effect of the whole more perfectly than I had before seen 
 on the Continent. Every window is embellished with stained glass ; 
 which is exhibited in that at the east end with peculiar richness, 
 and there forms a section of an octagon. In England the stamed 
 glass has so rarely escaped mutilation, that we are in a great mea- 
 sure strangers to its true effect; as well as to that of statues, which 
 are with us almost universally decapitated, or removed from their 
 stations. Our Gothic structures, ornamented as they are, lose 
 much by the appearance of vacant pedestals and niches, which our 
 reformers and puritans despoiled of their accompaniments. This 
 kind of ecclesiastical statuary is now seen in the highest perfec- 
 tion at Ratisbon. From the long old bridge I first had a sight of 
 the Danube, that prince of rivers, with scenery interesting 
 on every account, and extremely beautiful in itself. The ideas 
 which originate in the importance of locality, and the contempla- 
 tion of scenes which are famous in history, will here present them- 
 selves to every intelligent mind. 
 
 From this point of view, the fore-ground is busy, and abounds 
 in objects: such as corn-milis built in boats, with a water-wheel 
 driven by the current between two of them ; immense floats of 
 
LONDON* TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 2! 
 
 timber, and small craft for conveying provisions to Vienna. The 
 construction of these mills is useful and ingenious. I counted 
 fourteen of them placed closely together, and appearing as if 
 under one roof. There is much beauty in the broad surface of 
 the Danube so completely occupied; and the view is very inte- 
 resting, as the river meanders through a wide valley, and is 
 flanked by bare and lofty promontories, of a description similar 
 to those upon the Rhine. The town, on the right hand, wants 
 elevation; and its best feature, the cathedral towers, having 
 been left unfinished, (of which circumstance there are many 
 proofs in Germany,) that deficiency is supplied by sharp roofs of 
 red tiles. It has been said, that these superb buildings have 
 been purposely left incomplete, that benefactions might be so? 
 licited on this pretence, the object to excite them being thus al- 
 ■\vays in view; but it may be equally probable, that the original 
 plans were of greater extent than the labour and piety of many 
 centuries could supply. Certain it is, that while in English ca- 
 thedrals we have scarcely an uniiuished part though many have 
 been destroyed, the fronts of the great churches in Germany, 
 almost without exception, are deformed by the want of one, and 
 sometimes of both, of the intended towers. 
 
 Quitting Ratisbon at 7 p- m. we proceeded (three posts) to 
 Straubing, where we slept. The greater part of the road led 
 through plains which offered no picturesque object to the eye, 
 as the Danube was out of sight. The streets of Straubing are 
 jspacious, and the houses are neatly whitened with lime. 
 
 April 0. 
 
 
 
 
 
 CIRCLE OF BAVARIA, 
 
 
 
 Posts. 
 
 En 
 
 ^lish Miles. 
 
 Platling 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 
 — 
 
 Vil/hoven 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 
 — 
 
 Scharding 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 
 60 
 
 At Platling we crossed the Iser, over a decayed bridge of 
 loose planks, under the guardianship of Nepomucene ; whose 
 painted effigy, with a hoop of irons resembling stars, and gilded, 
 generally occupies that station. This St. John was a martyr and 
 bishop of Prague, who was drowned because he would not di- 
 vulge a secret committed to him as confessor ; and these stars 
 appeared, and discovered the spot at which his body had sunk to 
 the bottom of the river. 
 
 Soon^afterward, to the left, was open to us the great ridge of 
 mountains in the Upper Palatinate ( Herajnii Mantes) ; which, 
 being of vast extent, form a very magnificent boundary to a truly 
 
I'l 
 
 AN ITIXr.EAKY FltOM 
 
 interesting picture. The Danube Hows smoothly under an ac- 
 cumulation of swelling banks, tufted with pine -and matted fo- 
 liage; which in one spot is relieved by a dilapidated castle, of 
 most picturesque composition : indeed, a more completely en- 
 gaging landscape can rarely exist. We then passed the modern 
 castellated mansion of Altenbiirg; proudly overlooking, from a 
 considerable eminence, the surrounding seignory, and in a valley 
 the large couvent of Furstenstein. Every thing around us had 
 the air of feudal grandeur and of the domain of a German ba- 
 ron, as represented in plays and novels. The Alps in the Tyrol 
 Mere now first seen, breaking under the extremity of the hori- 
 zon. About a mile from Seharding, the closing front-view ^t 
 these immense mountains extends at least a hundred miles, being 
 at the distance of about eighty. Whoever has not seen them 
 even at this distance, would gain but an ..nperfect idea from the 
 most happy description. The eternal snows on the summits 
 were blended v\ith the incumbent clouds, and only distinguishable 
 from these by their greater transparency. A variety of masses 
 so august, and so fantastically formed, exceeds all that imagina- 
 tion can place in scenes of her own creation; these mountains 
 are in reality, " stretching from earth to heaven." 
 
 April 10. 
 
 
 
 
 AUSTRIA 
 
 
 Posts. 
 
 Ei 
 
 iglish Miles. 
 
 
 Beyersbach 
 
 o 
 
 . 
 
 — 
 
 
 Efferding 
 
 n 
 
 
 — 
 
 
 Lintz 
 
 if 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 
 Enns 
 
 if 
 
 - 
 
 Go 
 
 
 Soon after sunrise we departed from Seharding, where we 
 found nothing remarkable. Crossing the wide and shoalv river 
 Inn near its junction with the Danube, the country was uni- 
 form, but agreeable and unmasked, till we gained another view oi' 
 the Alps; which were now shifted to the right, and the eye left 
 with regret such sublime objects. They were embosomed in 
 clouds more than half-way down, towering with their heads 
 above them. The whole reflected the rays of the morning-sun. 
 
 In this part of Austria, the construction of the cottages is 
 admirable for their contrivance and utility, and no less for pic- 
 turesque form- They are built intirely of planks ; with low flat 
 roofs projecting considerably over the front, which has generally 
 three or four tiers of open galleries, communicating with the 
 chambers by means of galleries on the outside. Their simpli- 
 city and scrupulous neatness accord most beautifully with the 
 
f.ONBON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 23 
 
 landscape; the wildness of which is contrasted by trim gardens 
 and inclosures, which evince the industry and correct habits of 
 the German peasantry. 
 
 Before we came to EfTerdirig, the Alps had imperceptibly re- 
 tired from our sight; but some compensation was made by 
 cheerful fields and woodlands, which lost much beauty by the 
 tiresome recurrence of the fir-tree, producing no variety except 
 in its size. 
 
 At Weldaren-closter, which is a very spacious monaster}-, we 
 again found ourselves on the banks of the Danube; which now 
 wears the appearance of a bay with uncovered shoals, and owes 
 all its beauty to its fullness. As the shores contracted, the 
 reaches of the river were bolder and more even. The road runs 
 close to the brink; which, for the safety of travellers, is secured 
 by rails for two miles- Every step we advanced, displayed a 
 more interesting point of view. The side-screen, composed of 
 perpendicular rock, naked and expanded; the sombre tints of 
 the pine and oak, blended and harmonized with the tender hues 
 of weeping birch-tree and hornbeam, now bursting into foliage; 
 completed a mass of exquisite combination and colouring. 
 
 *' Woods over woods, in gay theatric pride, 
 
 " Well mass'd, yet varied, deck the mountain's side." 
 
 says Goldsmith of the Appenines; but I question if his descrip- 
 tion be not more appropriate to this scene, than to any I after- 
 wards saw in the north of Italy, in my way from Rome to Verona. 
 Huge fragments of rock had fallen to the base, and added 
 much to the effect. The surface of these headlands breaks into 
 sharp spiral points, discovered through the otherwise impervious 
 groves on their acclivities. A succession of swelling knowls with 
 small glens, branching off, and sweetly wooded, compose the 
 opposite shores. Many of the cottages have picturesque sites; 
 which, with their partial cultivation, offer a perfect school of 
 landscape, in most interesting variety. This grand vista, always 
 changing its objects both in the sides and extremities, affords the 
 eye no rest, and excites admiration both of its variety and beauty. 
 At an extreme height is the Carthusian convent of Bethleem- 
 burg, with its " heaven-directed spire," to which the devout of 
 both sexes make frequent pilgrimages. I have dwelt with more 
 minuteness on these scenes, as the only point of view in which I 
 saw the Danube as a very picturesque river, or to be considered 
 as rivaling the Rhine in that respect. 
 
 Lintz is pleasantly situated at the termination of this singular 
 valley ; and for the distance of a mile before the gates, a street of 
 
«4 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 neat Cottages extends along its banks. After having passed the 
 great military magazine and the barrier, we entered a very hand- 
 some and regularly- built square. A street equally well built 
 branches from it, and the environs abound in neat villas amamaquc 
 rura. It is the resort of many of the superior rank, who are 
 invited thither by its pleasantness and convenience. Were I des- 
 tined to pass the rest of my days in Germany, and had my 
 choice of place, I would decidedly fix upon Lintz. 
 1 reached Enns at 8 p. m. 
 
 April 1 1 
 
 I. 
 
 
 
 
 AUSTRIA 
 
 
 Posts. 
 
 Enj 
 
 ;lish Miles. 
 
 
 Sternburg 
 
 1 
 
 
 — 
 
 
 Amstettcn 
 
 1* 
 
 - 
 
 -- 
 
 
 Remelbach 
 
 1 
 
 . 
 
 — 
 
 
 Moelk 
 
 H 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 
 St. Pblten 
 
 • n 
 
 - 
 
 05 
 
 
 Between Sternburg and Amstetten, we followed a succession" 
 of woody and cultivated slopes for many miles. As the beauties 
 of nature were less engaging, we were much pleased by the ap- 
 pearance of the female peasants. Their short red jackets bound 
 with gold-lace, and a cup intirely composed of that material 
 (or sometimes of coloured velvet) projecting behind with a broad 
 hem shading the face, which were particularly frequent in the 
 neighbourhood of Lintz (where they are manufactured), gave 
 them a very lively and theatrical air. 
 
 From the terminating promontory, a rich vale on either side 
 is spread at its feet. That on the right hand is the superior in 
 its composition; the ground gradually rising to extreme points, 
 and clothed with broad surfaces of dark and umbrageous groves; 
 and behind them in a continued parallel line, the Styrian Alps, 
 streaked with snow, and so near as to be visible in every part: — • 
 the whole composing a vast assemblage of mountainous scenery. 
 
 On our approach to Moelk, we looked down on the Danube; 
 wide, with uncovered sand-banks, and now appearing (like those 
 numerous rivers which are tributary to it) rather as the mere bed 
 of a torrent. A promontory of solid brown rock shoots as far 
 as the banks, and commands the town, which is meanly built. 
 
 The whole platform, to the very brink, is occupied by the 
 monastery of Benedictines, the largest and most sumptuous that 
 had occurred in the course of our route; spreading an air of gran- 
 deur over the picture, from its magnitude, elevation, and structure. 
 The architect was John Bernard Fischers, the German Palladia, 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 25 
 
 who contribute-! so greatly to the embellishment of the city of 
 A ieuna, under the patronage of the Emperor Joseph I. It con- 
 sists of two CQurUsj each with a front containing eighty windows; 
 and these inclose the church, which has two spiral towers, a 
 facade, add central cupola, resembling St. Paul's at Lo: don on 
 a small scale. Fischers probably borrowed his first idea from 
 Wren's plans then published, and accommodated them to this 
 situation. At the entrance from the bflgh grounds above the 
 town, are bastions and fortifications ; this bring the only part 
 undefended by nature. Ecclesiastics can hardly need such a 
 security, except from the circumstance of its being likewise a 
 palace, and the Emperor's occasional residence in his journeys. 
 
 I observed, as far as we had yet proceeded, the very great 
 mutual resemblance, both in situation and form, of all conventual 
 buildings. They are, with few exceptions, large whitened 
 masses, with shapeless towers ; adding nothing to the beauty of 
 the landscape, though usually rising from an insulated mount or 
 woody promontory. The ruins of those seen in England, or 
 even the perfect convents (the colleges of Oxford and Cambridge), 
 are infinitely more striking than these in Germany; which show 
 no progressive epochs of architecture, but seem to be the pro- 
 duce of a few modern years. Perhaps, as an emblem of their 
 present flourishing state, it may be the pride of the monks to 
 keep all their buildings constantly renovated, and to conceal every 
 feature of antiquity under thick coats of lime; or their total defi- 
 ciency of taste may be the real reason. 
 
 Mr. Gilpin remarks, with his usual taste and judgment, that 
 " in countries where popery prevails, the abbey is still intire and 
 inhabited, and of course less adapted to landscape." Northern 
 Tour, v. i. p. 13. 
 
 At seven we arrived at St. Pol ten, to which place, in 1741, the 
 French and Bavarian armies had advanced, thus threatening Maria 
 Theresa in her own capital. 
 
 April 12. 
 
 Posts. 
 Persihling 
 Sigaxdskirchen - 
 
 Biirkersdorf 
 Vienna - 
 
 AUSTRIA. 
 
 English Miles. 
 
 40. 
 
 To Sigardskirchen we crossed an open plain, which gave dis- 
 tant views of several of the mansion-houses of the gentry. Hi- 
 
 1TINERAKY.] E 
 
<2f3 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 therto the country had wanted this embellishment, which in Eng- 
 land contributes so much to the rich effect of many landscapes. 
 Passing through a grove, a shepherd-boy was playing on a pipe 
 of simple form, made of the bark of a birch-tree, and resembling 
 a clarinet in size, but longer : it produced wild but sweet notes. 
 lie was a very characteristic addition to the picture. Further on 
 is the village of Abstetten, then recently reduced to ashes by 
 lightning; but all the roofs were repaired by the feudal lord, 
 prince Lichtenstein, whose ancient and massive chateau overlooks 
 the village and his wide domain. One good consequence of 
 feudal tenure is, that the chief is bound to make all such repairs 
 as individuals are not able to do. This calamity happened bur 
 five weeks before, and a complete restoration has taken place. 
 
 The environs of Vienna exhibit many of the improvements 
 usual about a splendid metropolis ; but there is an universal 
 deficiency of shade; and the whole view is overpowered by a 
 broad glare, from wide corn-fields and whitened houses, unre- 
 lieved by foliage of any kind. From this observation the im- 
 perial palace of Schobrunn cannot be excepted. In our hasty 
 survey of it, there appeared to be much grandeur and extent, 
 and highly-ornamented gardens surrounding it. The suburbs of 
 Vienna are detached from the city, which they exceed in every 
 respect; and the intermediate space is covered with many noble 
 houses, disposed in parades, and built of a bright freestone. 
 Crossing the Boulevards we entered the city, and took possession 
 of our apartments at an inn upon the largest scale. 
 
 Total of the journey from Ostend to Vienna. 
 
 Posts. English Miles. Furlongs. 
 89$. 795, - 4. 
 
 At Vienna from April 12 to the 20th, 1794. 
 
 This being the holy week, my attention was attracted to a pro- 
 cession of penitents round the area of the great church of St. 
 Stephen. They were all men, habited in gowns of coarse brown 
 canvas ; with hoods and masks of the same, having only small 
 holes cut for the eyes and mouth. Some bore heavy crosses of 
 wood, while others inflicted on their own naked shoulders the 
 severest flagellation. Those who were least zealous, walked 
 bare-foot only. I considered these devotees as Franciscans 
 of the stricter order ; but was assured, that among them might 
 fee found many of the first rank in society, who sub- 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 27 
 
 init to such a penance, as the only means of procuring abso- 
 lution. 
 
 The cathedral of St. Stephen is a very magnificent edifice. It 
 is one of the most superb specimens of the Gothic school of 
 architecture on the continent, during the fourteenth century. 
 The ground plan is very extensive, and has not been completed: 
 for one of the great towers having beeu left unfinished, has been 
 patched up, by the bad taste of a later age, with a heavy turret ; 
 the other is of a very singular form, and 4()5 feet in height. 
 From the base to the point, it appears to be gradually spiral ; 
 and clustered with tiers of canopies, fiuials, and pedestals, to the 
 very summit, in the greatest profusion. The base forms a grand 
 portal. Nevertheless, the elevation has no effect of beauty ; as 
 the roofs are so disproportionably lofty, and rendered tawdry by 
 being covered with coloured tiles, placed in capricious forms 
 like a tesselated pavement. The attached chapels are numerous. 
 On the side nearest the church, the tower is regular, with a di- 
 vision where the steeple rises ; for the buttresses, being incor- 
 porated with the other building, produce an effect of infinite 
 ornament, composed of small particles. The nave and choir 
 share this extraordinary embellishment externally; but within are 
 rendered dark and gloomy, by superfluity and by want of taste. 
 Against the pillars of the nave are shrines of the most elaborate 
 workmanship, with effigies as large as life; and they are most 
 unsuitably crowded with altars of gilding and gaudy colours. 
 The walls are literally lined with paintings; but I should not se- 
 lect more than two of them as meriting observation : these are 
 the Crucifixion and the Sepulture of Christ. The whole inte- 
 rior but ill accords with the sobriety of the English eye, which 
 is not easily reconciled to a total deficiency of simplicity and 
 neatness. Selection of ornament has not, in any oue instance of 
 ecclesiastical architecture that I have seen in Germany, been 
 thought worthy of the slightest attention : to accumulate, rather 
 than to arrange, has beeu the object of those who have had the 
 charge of structures dedicated to divine service. 
 
 Were it allowable to free this building of all its exuberances, 
 and reduce it to the simplicity of a mere stone colour, St. Ste- 
 phen's might vie with the superior English cathedrals ; at least, 
 it would become one of the most elegant examples of Gothic 
 architecture on the continent. 
 
 I was present during the solemn mass on Easter Eve. The 
 service of the " Tenebra" was extremely pleasing, and the choir 
 full and harmonious. In a gallery above the altar, inclosed with 
 lattices, the empress attended. Cardinal Migazzi, who had just 
 completed his eightieth year, officiated, dressed in his robes of 
 
 E 2 
 
^H 
 
 ■ 
 
 V2S 
 
 AN ITINBRAHY from 
 
 scarlet; a venerable old man, of a very dignified nppearanca. 
 He was confessor to the late Empress Maria Theresa, whose 
 bigotry influenced every action of her life ; is .supposed to 1 ve 
 advised the ineffectual visit of Puis VL; and was the strenuous 
 opponent of the Emperor Jostph, in his resolution of suppressing 
 the monasteries in Flanders. As the rival of Prince Kuunitz, 
 his political history is well known. The cathedral of St. Ste- 
 phen has been mentioned as the most perfect instance of German 
 Gothic. Considered with that of Strasburg, the comparison 
 between the lowers is the more obvious ; and it would be diffi- 
 cult to decide their claims. The Gothic style in Fiance is spc- 
 cifica!l\ dim rent, in as great a degree as that peculiar to Eng- 
 land ; St. Stephen's, therefore, cannot be more accurately com- 
 pared with the cathedral of Rheims or of Rouen, than with those 
 of York or of Lincoln. 
 
 The old city of Vienna is not equal in extent to most other 
 European capitals. It is inclosed by ramparts ; wliii h are much 
 elevated above the plain on which Vienna is situated, with a de- 
 clivity only toward the Danube. The greater part of them is 
 planted, and they may be walked round with ease in an hour. 
 Some views of grandeur they certainly exhibit; but in general 
 the city forms a mass of very lofty white buildings, relieved only 
 by the cathedral. Looking towards the suburbs, however, there 
 is a variety of superb objects. The city abounds in narrow 
 streets, without a pavement for foot-passengers: hence walking 
 is inconvenient and dangerous, for the equipages of persons of 
 quality are purposely driven as close to the houses as possible, and 
 the affrighted stranger is often forced to take refuge in the shops. 
 This was formerly the case likewise at Paris. I remarked the 
 cleanness of the streets ; and saw several companies of convicts 
 in chains, employed as scavengers. As the police at Vienna is 
 not less impartial than active, I was assured that there were se- 
 veral persons of noble families under that condemnation, for 
 different crimes, for a certain ierm of years. 
 
 In this city are two houses said to be the largest in Europe ; 
 the rent of one of which is 3000/. per annum, and the other 
 is computed to contain six hundred inhabitants : but in fact 
 they consist of many public staircases, are divided into irre- 
 gular courts, and appear rather a cluster of houses than a single 
 house. 
 
 The Imperial Palace is built on several acres of ground, with- 
 out plan or regularity, having been executed at various times* 
 Externally it has not the slightest pretension to architectural 
 beauty $ but, like our St. James's, the state apartments are well 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 €9 
 
 -adapted to the purposes of ceremony. Many of the others are 
 indeed very capriciously contrived. A suite of low rooms is 
 appropriated as the imperial museum, of which (at least, that 
 existing in her time) Lady M. Wortley Montague does not 
 speak with much respect. (Letter XIV.)But the latter emperors, 
 possessing more leisure, and better inclination, for science, have 
 encouraged learned men, wliose researches have amply repaid 
 their munificence. — The cabinets of mineralogy arid shells were 
 shown to us by the Abbe Stiltz, with great politeness and atten- 
 tion. Four spacious rooms are surrounded by cases: and the spe- 
 cimens are very favourably disposed by their being placed on 
 brackets of white porcelain richly gilt, and thus perfectly seen. 
 The most curious and rare fossils arc said to be an opal of sixteen 
 ounces, valued at i'OOOl. ; an elastic stone, eighteen inches by 
 fourteen, of the ore called " aurum graphic um" containing in a 
 hundred thirty-six parts of pure gold; and a piece of crystal from 
 Madagascar, a yard in length, and eighteen in circumference. 
 Besides the first collection now existing of crystals, agates, ores, 
 and gems, may be remarked an equal number of artificial curio- 
 sities: the chief of which are a bouquet of flowers compost d of 
 every kind of jewel, presented by Maria Theresa to Joseph II. 
 on his marriage; and a slab of lapis, inlaid with a border com- 
 posed of flowers and shells, in Florentine scagtiola or mosaic, 
 which rival colouring in correctness and brilliancy. Ot these ra- 
 rities very correct catalogues have been published. 
 
 Baron Van Swieten, the son of the celebrated physician and 
 medical commentator, shewed us the Imperial Library. The 
 .style of the room is perhaps too ornamental and superb for its 
 purpose. In the centre is a painted dome, supported by seagliola 
 columns, with an ample area; and the whole (fleet is that of aa 
 Italian church. Bernard Fischers, the German Palladio, was 
 the architect ; whose skill is principally admirable in breaking the 
 extreme length, by another colonnade in the middle of the room, 
 which extends from the centre. In point of architectural merit, 
 it may be ranked with the Radcliffe Libiary at Oxford; and even 
 its faults are all of the same kind. 
 
 The collection of books is universal and sumptuous. Smaller 
 rooms are appropriated to manuscripts, and the curiosities of li- 
 terature. There is a manuscript Dioscorides r with coloured draw- 
 ings of plans, written in the fifth century, and brought from 
 Constantinople by the celebrated Busbequius, who was the 
 ambassador of Charles V. to the Porte; and who sent likewise a 
 Pliny's Natural History, and the itinerary of a Roman general, 
 
so 
 
 AN ITINERARY PROM 
 
 of contemporary date. Of these he gives the following ac- 
 count : 
 
 " Sunt, credo, libri haud multo infra 240, quos Caesariae bi- 
 bliotheca^destinavi. Sunt aliquot non contemmendi. Unum reliqui 
 Constantinopoli decrepitae vetustatis, totum descriptum litera 
 majuscula, .Dioscoridem cum depictis {)lantarum figuris; in quo 
 sunt paucula, ni fallor, Crate vie, et JLibellus de i\vibus. Ego 
 einptum cupivissem, scd me deterruit pretium. Nam 100 du- 
 catis huiieabatur; summa Caasaris, non mei, marsupii. Ego 
 instare non desinam, donee Capsaicin impulero ut tain praeclarum 
 auctorem ex ilia servitute redimat. Est vetustatis injuria pes* 
 sime habitus; ita intrinsecus a vermibus aorrosus, ut in via reper- 
 tuin vix aliquis curet tollere." Busbequim, Epistol. IV. p. 391* 
 
 The origin and progress of the typographic art, in a com- 
 plete series, occupy many shelves. Among others, I remarked 
 a Psalter \ by Faust, the inventor of printing, upon vellum, 
 scarcely to be distinguished from manuscript ; all Caxton's works ; 
 a French translation of Boccace ; and the romance of Lancelot 
 du Lac, in three volumes folio, with exquisitely beautiful illu- 
 minations. Many folio missals are worthy notice upon this latter 
 account. This series of the specimens of printing is continued 
 from the invention of the art to the close of the sixteenth century. 
 A collection of engraved portraits of eminent persons, in many 
 volumes, readily caught my eye; thirteen of the subjects are 
 English. I had not an opportunity of examining their preten- 
 sions, in point of comparison, with those of Sir \V. Musgiave 
 and the Marquis of Bute. 
 
 The coins and medals, which are rare and excellent, I did not 
 see. The facility of admission to this library, and its superior 
 accommodations, must render Vienna an eligible residence for 
 men of literary pursuits; as it is open to all, without intro- 
 duction or fee. This most liberal plan is likewise adopted at 
 Rome and Paris ; and is well worthy of imitation in the great 
 libraries iu England, the difficulty of access to which has deprived 
 them of much of their utility. 
 
 Having heard so many anecdotes of Prince Kaunitz, who had 
 now been Imperial minister of state for forty years, 1 availed 
 myself of an opportunity of seeing him in his riding-school, tak- 
 ing his daily exercise. Although nearly fourscore years old, he 
 sat his horse perpendicularly, and as if he could not stoop, 
 I never saw a counteuance or figure marked by so much pride: 
 Wolsey himself could not have had more. Kaunitz is certainly 
 superior to that minister in talents and in power. Wolsey retained 
 an influence over a prince, at that time, indolent and luxurious ; 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 31 
 
 hut this statesman has absolutely governed three sovereigns, very 
 opposite in character, but all active, and retains the helm even 
 under a fourth. Scarcely a traveller has visited Vienna without 
 some anecdote of Prince Kaunitz, confirming the unbounded 
 superciliousness which he displays in the common occurrences 
 of life. 
 
 When the Empress Maria Theresa gave him an audience in 
 a room with the windows closed, he never failed to open them 
 before he entered on business. He received the queen of Na- 
 ples in bed, and told her that she staid too long. When the 
 princes of the Empire dined with him, he pretended that he did 
 not remember their titles, and purposely miscalled them. W hen 
 the dessert came on the table, the apparatus for cleaning his teeth 
 appeared likewise; and he performed the offices of the toilet 
 without noticing his guests, even if they Mere of the highest 
 rank. 
 
 I too must tell a story of him, which has not yet been in 
 print : — As he had opposed to the utmost the pontifical visit of 
 Pius VI. to the Emperor Joseph II., he determieed that the 
 court of Vienna should not receive the former as pope, and that 
 in conversation he should only be styled, like any other clergy- 
 man, signor Abbate. Pius (then not humbled by misfortune) 
 was infinitely mortified, and resolved on some retaliation. Hav- 
 ing been informed that Kaunitz never advanced further than the 
 first step of his great stair-case when a visitor of rank took leave, 
 that he had a collection of bad paintings which he valued highly, 
 and that he could not hear of death with composure, he availed 
 himself of all these circumstances at once. On the morning 
 fixed for his departure towards Rome, he sent to Prince Kaunitz, 
 requesting leave to see his collection, which was most readily 
 granted. After the most fulsome compliments on his taste in 
 vertd, the pope artfully protracted the conversation, till the 
 haughty prince found himself encircled by courtiers at the bot- 
 tom of the stairs ; when the pope turned short, and said, in a 
 loud and sarcastic tone, " But your highness should recollect, 
 that these fine things are of little consequence to us old men, 
 who have each of us a foot in the grave." No embarrassme»t 
 could exceed that of Kaunitz on this occasion ; which was not 
 a little increased by the certainty of this affair being spread 
 through every society in Vienna. 
 
 Prince Kaunitz died towards the end of 1794 ; and it is be- 
 lieved that his death was hastened by regret at his son's being 
 fouud connected with others of the nobility who were im- 
 peached on account of their Jacobin principles, and as favourers 
 •f the French cause. 
 
 The armoury was pointed out to us as worth seeing. It coa.- 
 
AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 tains many thousand stand of arms, but is much inferior to that 
 in the Tower of Loudon. I could not contemplate these instru- 
 ments of destruction with the least pleasure : but my attention 
 was engrossed by a figure bearing the complete armour of 
 Charles V., and that worn at a tournament ; and this exercise 
 Mas represented by many others of the combatants' horses and 
 attendants, which, for the time, filled my mind with Romantic 
 imagery, and gave reality to the pages of chivalry and romance. 
 
 The Turks were the natural enemies of Vienna. It was be- 
 sieged by Solyman I. in 1.S29, and by Mohammed IV. in 1683 ; 
 but as they are no longer formidable, it has been in contem- 
 plation to dismantle the fortifications. The suburbs are much 
 more extensive than the city : particulaily the New Town (called, 
 in honour of the late Emperor, Leopoldstadt) ; in which the pa- 
 rades and squares, being built of bright freestone, and with great 
 Uniformity, very nearly resemble those of Bath. The grand pro- 
 menade called the Prater, is on a similar plan to St. James's 
 Park, and the gardens of the Thuilleries. It was given to the 
 public by Joseph II. ; and is a delightful appendage to 
 a large city, the total population of which is estimated at 
 2,50,000. 
 
 We had no opportunity of seeing Prince Lichtenstein's pic- 
 tures, which form one of the most famous private collections in 
 Germany. 
 
 Of the public architecture of Vienna, almost every specimen 
 is due to John Bernard Fischers; who died in 17-4, and had 
 enjoyed the imperial patronage with uninterrupted success. Be- 
 sides the library above-mentioned, 1 visited the following of his 
 most cele I rated works, upon each of which 1 shall give the ob- 
 servations which occurred on the spot. 
 
 I first went to the palace of Schbnbrunn, about three miles 
 from Vienna, which he designed as a hunting-seat for the impe- 
 rial court in 1696. There are three stories, with thirty-five 
 windows in each, in the centre of extensive wings ; and a portico 
 of the Ionic order, before which are placed two grand water- 
 jets, fifty-four feet in diameter. The invention of the whole 
 wants simplicity : the external decorations being void of taste ; 
 and the distribution within ill applied, and not containing rooms 
 equal either in point of commodiousness or number to what the 
 outside promises. In l(i&9, on the nuptials of the Emperor- 
 Joseph L, the foreign merchants resident in Vienna made a 
 triumphal arch, which is a master-piece of extravagance. 
 Without detail, it may be said to be a more capricious and un- 
 scientific performance than any scholar of Barromui would 
 have owned. 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE: 
 
 3$ 
 
 Having been introduced by our fellow-traveller, Dr. J. Sib- 
 thorp, to the Jacquins (father and sou), so justly celebrated over 
 Europe for their botanical science, we had an opportunity of 
 accurately investigating the Imperial collection of rural plants 
 and exotics, and were favoured with much of their very interest- 
 ing and instructive conversation ; fi dm which I recollect the fol- 
 lowing particulars: 
 
 The botanical garden at Schonbrunn owes its institution to 
 the emperor Francis I.; and was first made in 1753, under the 
 direction of the famous Van Swieten. That sovereign sent the 
 elder Jacquin to America in 1754, on a botanical expedition, 
 which he did not complete till 1759; during which period he 
 sent home no less than seven large collections of the most rare 
 plants; the greater part of which fortunately arrived at Vienna, 
 When Francis died, in 1765, the empress Maria Theresa ordered 
 that the garden should be continued with equal care and expence. 
 Her son, Joseph II., authorised Jacquin and Von Born, to pro- 
 pose literary men well qualified for a voyage to extend the 
 classes; and this little society left Vienna before the end of 17850 
 The exotics were occasionally increased during this reign; but by 
 lio botanist more than by the younger jacquin; who has travelled, 
 in pursuit of the science he so successfully professes, over the 
 greater part of Europe. The hot-houses were enlarged by Joseph 
 II. The emperor Leopold, who is justly praised for his love and 
 patronage of the arts, dispatched another mission of botanic re- 
 search, the purpose of which was frustrated by various unfore- 
 seen events. After his death, the present monarch erected a new 
 hot-house, destined to receive plants from the Cape of Good 
 Hope only, which is 9.35 feet in length ; and a distinct garden 
 has been laid out, in which all plants which are natives of the 
 Austrian dominions are cultivated with skill and care. Under 
 such powerful and continued patronage, the gardens of Schbnbruml 
 have acquired the fame which they are allowed to possess, of 
 being the first in Europe. 
 
 In the suburb of Leopoldstadt I pursued my examination of 
 the works of Fischer. There is a column upon the idea, rather 
 than in imitation, of those of Trajan and Antoine at Rome, which 
 was one of his later works. The elevation is bold; but the sculp- 
 tures, which are meant to immoitalize Charles VI., are below 
 criticism in point of execution. The church of St. Charles Bor- 
 romeo was built in 1700 by that emperor, in consequence of a 
 vow; a kind of motive to which ecclesiastical architecture is very 1 
 much indebted. Fischer gave the design. The ground plan is a 
 Greek cross of equal length, with a central cupola; and the por- 
 tico is a Corinthian exastyle, with a very weighty architrave. Pil- 
 
 uinerary/J f 
 

 
 34 
 
 AN' ITINERARY PROM 
 
 lars, pilastres, and statues, arc superabundant; and destroy all 
 magnificence; which is never to be produced independaut of sim- 
 plicity. The cupola, with its accompaniments, is a complica- 
 tion of false concord in architecture. 
 
 But the Royal Mews, which he completed, have simplicity, 
 variety, and magnificence. They contain a stable for six hundred 
 horses, with an amphitheatre and riding-school. 
 
 He constructed likewise a palace called Belvidere, for prince 
 Eugene. Its style has little beauty; and the general effect is 
 spoiled by the ill appearance of the windows. The suite of apart- 
 ments now contain the grand imperial collection of pictures, 
 which is magnificent rather than select. The collection made at 
 Vienna by Charles IV 7 .; that of Prague, taken there in Kio7; that 
 of Stahlbourg, in 1728; and all these, joined with Prince 
 Eugene's, comprise nearly thirteen hundred pictures. Passing over 
 many of mediocrity, 1 counted no less than five by M. Agnolo; 
 forty-nine by Titian ; forty-five by Rubens ; twenty-six by Van- 
 dyck; and nineteen by Teuiers; which are unrivalled, and cer- 
 tainly the finest in the world. As this sumptuous exhibition is 
 daily open to the public at stated hours, 1 visited the ISelvidere 
 as often as 1 had an opportunity, and as often returned delighted 
 with the facility with which such a gratification could be 
 procured. 
 
 All the buildings I have mentioned were not finished by 13. 
 Fischers, but also his son Emanuel Fischers according to his 
 plans. The latter indeed was more eminently serviceable to 
 society than his father, bv his hydraulic inventions for the mines 
 of Kremnitz, andSchemnitz, in Hungary. 
 
 The national architecture of Germany undoubtedly owes much 
 to Fischers ; before whose day the attempts at classical building 
 were rude in the extreme. It was as little known in Germany, 
 as in England before Inigo . I ones: yet, in comparing these 
 artists, we must remember that. I ones introduced and left us mo- 
 dels, which were drawn from the purest Italian sources, ami coin 
 tinue inimitable by his successors; while Fischers copied from 
 Borrimini; and it will be well for the modern architects of 
 Austria, if they avoid his faults, and study only his excellences. 
 
 During our short stay at Vienna, I was more engaged by things 
 than men. The society here is said to be particularly good; the 
 claims and degrees of nobility are most ceremoniously observed, 
 and we were assured that Vienna was become what Paris was 
 before the revolution. 
 
 Most of the houses which I saw, consist (for one family) of the 
 first floor, with rooms opening to each other, and both lofty and 
 spacious. In general, the furniture was gaudy, with much gilding 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 35 
 
 and silk hangings. The Aiistrians are very partial to whole-length 
 portraits of their emperors, which I observed frequently. Every 
 room is furnished, in one corner of it, with a stove reaching to 
 the ceiling, and ornamented with porcelain tiles: an English- 
 man, however, naturally looks for a far-place, and is apt to con- 
 sider a room comfortless without it. This custom of stoves ori- 
 ginates in economy, from the scarcity of fuel; and 1 had to con- 
 tend with Mr. Jacquin, who had been in England, and who argued 
 for its superior neatness, and more agreeable heat, though from 
 an invisible fire. 
 
 Throughout Germany, the women of better fashion seemed to 
 imitate the French or English, both in dress and in the mode of 
 wearing the hair; except that they appeared in the streets with- 
 out hats. 
 
 On the COth of April, we bade aideu to Vienna at day-break. 
 \S c had now to encounter a journey, the delays, the fatigue, and 
 the danger of which, we did not anticipate. 
 
 From Vienna to Constantinople. 
 The route generally taken is that from Vienna to Belgrade, and 
 thence to Constantinople; as being at least two hundred miles 
 nearer than that which the state of the Turkish provinces and 
 other circumstances obliged us to prefer. 1 have seen a state- 
 ment of the route taken by the .French ambassador in 17-0, and 
 subjoin it as an elucidation. 
 
 
 
 
 Leagues. 
 
 Fischament 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 Teutsch Altenburg 
 
 
 3 
 
 Joerhendorf 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 YViselburg 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 Hogstras 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 Raab 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 o 
 
 Gonyo 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 O 
 
 Comom 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 Nesmuhl 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 o 
 
 m 
 
 Neudorf 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 O 
 
 Dorock - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 O 
 
 Vareswar 
 
 - 
 
 . 
 
 3 
 
 Buda, Offen 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 Hensbeck 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 Ertchin - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 Adon 
 
 . 
 
 _ 
 
 o 
 
 Pantely - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 Fbdwar - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 Pax 
 
 
 
 4 
 52 
 
 
 *3 
 
 
B^ 
 
 BHBMMi 
 
 
 38 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROHtf 
 
 Brought over 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 58 
 
 Tolna 
 
 • 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 Sexard 
 
 . 
 
 • 
 
 2 
 
 Patasac - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 Sotscho - 
 
 - 
 
 • 
 
 2 
 
 Mohaos - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 a 
 
 Baranyvar 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 Estieck 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 Vuckovar 
 
 -• 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 No vase] la 
 
 - 
 
 » 
 
 2 
 
 Batsch - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 Karagatsch 
 
 - 
 
 . 
 
 S 
 
 Gloschan 
 
 . 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 Peterwaiadein 
 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 Petsch - 
 
 . 
 
 «v 
 
 4 
 
 Pancsora 
 
 • 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 Belgrade 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 on the river DraVe. 
 
 103 
 
 From Belgrade to Constantinople, 
 Leagues. 
 
 Zweybruggen 
 
 • 
 
 . 
 
 2 
 
 Krozka 
 
 . 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 Golajr 
 
 • 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 Hassan Pasha 
 
 Balatsha 
 
 4 
 
 Patazina 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 Jagodna 
 
 «r 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 Razena 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 Alexiiiza 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 Nissa 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 Mustafa Pash 
 
 i Balatsha 
 
 4 
 
 Schaikei - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 Pastbrod 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 Chalkali - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 Sophia 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 El-ecclisa 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 Kapi-dervend 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 5 Cross mount Haemus 
 
 Tartarwarsig 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 Phihppopoli 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 6 
 
 Gergali - 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 Mustafa Pasha K 
 
 ipri 
 
 4 
 
 Hadrianople 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 76 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 S7 
 
 Brought over 
 Hafpza - 
 Eskibaba - 
 
 75 
 3 
 
 4 
 
 Burgaz - 
 
 S 
 
 Tchiorlu - 
 
 3 
 
 Bardos - 
 
 4 
 
 Lelivrea - 
 
 3 
 
 "Buyuck Checkmedjeh 
 Kuchuck Checkmedjeh 
 Constantinople - 
 
 3 
 
 3 
 o 
 
 
 
 
 K>3 
 
 103 
 
 
 103 
 
 
 206 
 
 If this calculation be made in French leagues it is not equal 
 to two-thirds of the real distance: if in German, it will be as 
 much more. This route cannot be accurately reckoned at less 
 than 850 English miles. 
 
 
 
 
 AUSTRIA. 
 
 
 Posts. 
 
 English Miles. 
 
 Teutsch Altenburg 
 
 2 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 Nainburg Fischament 
 
 2 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 Kitsee, — opposite Presburg 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 HUNGAKT- 
 
 Raggendorff (Jochreudorff ) 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 Wiselburg - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 Hogstras - 
 
 n 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 Raab - - - - 
 
 i 
 
 •" 
 
 65 
 
 From the ramparts of Vienna, to Teutsch in Altenburg, the road 
 is broad and level. In passing a Turkish intrenchment thrown up 
 during the siege of Vienna, we observed the church, in which the 
 styles of very distant eras are to be discerned; — the earliest imita- 
 tion of the Roman, and the neat Gothic of the fifteenth century, 
 with buttresses ornamented by canopies and fenials. This circum- 
 stance encouraged a conjecture that it had been once a Roman 
 temple, the ruins of which had been converted into a church. 
 The prospect from this elevated spot, in the distance toward 
 
3S 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 Vienna, is such as Loraine and Poussin frequently painted; the 
 great features of it form a side-screen of wooded mountains, 
 stretching to a sharp promontory, which is crested by a castle of 
 Nainburg, now a ruin of great dignity and extent. 
 
 It is connected with the town by the wall that encircles it, and 
 completes the fortification. The more favourable points of view 
 are, — the very distant one i and that just beyond the town, where 
 the central tower rises pyramidally, and the great length of wall 
 is foreshortened. At the base is a handsome modern house; and 
 the mount, which is finely invested with wood, has been laid out 
 in walks, and ornamented with several small buildings in a good 
 taste. Passing on, we came to a castellated house belonging to 
 prince Esterhazy, who had lately lent it to count Polignac and a 
 party of French emigrant nobility. To our right extended for a 
 small space some pretty woodlands, with a wavy surface of foliage 
 of a picturesque effect. 
 
 We entered Hungary at Kitsee, which besides merited our 
 attention as being a village entirely inhabited by Jews. It is 
 much to the credit of prince Esterhazy that he has entrusted them 
 with the agriculture of his vast estates in this district. As it was 
 the feast of the Passover, we saw many of their women very finely 
 dressed, with a profusion of gold-lace. Whether it be from 
 the natural indolence or inability of the Hungarians, or that the 
 country is depopulated for the supply of the army, the Jews, in 
 fact, are the only farmers. Between Ruggendorff and Y\ iselburg, 
 upon the left, is a bold ridge of mountains; with a large town at 
 the extremity, and a considerable castle in ruins, covering a 
 broad point of rock, and engrafted in it. The face of the country 
 now spreads into plains, covered -with herds of cattle, and rarely 
 a few cottages together. These last consist of one story, and 
 are very long; they are built of mud-walls and thatch, but are 
 neatly whitened, and have one end always towards the road. — 
 There is a patriarchal simplicity in the dress and appearance of 
 the people. The countrymen are universally clad in a surtout of 
 untanned sheep-skin, with the wool on the outside; a goat-skin 
 hanging behind, like a hood, from the shoulders; linen trowsers, 
 large boots, and a broad round hat. The women and girls have, 
 in general, coarse dark features ; they wear a tight cloth jacket, a 
 very short petticoat, and disdain the use of shoes and stockings. 
 Few of them, however poor, are seen without a small cross of 
 gold, or a piece of coin, suspended in their bosoms, which they 
 consider as sacred and unalienable. 
 
 At 8 p.m. we arrived at Raab; a town standing on a considerable 
 space of ground, as the streets are wide, and the houses detached. 
 The churches are neat ; and of modern architecture, having been, 
 erected during the reign of Maria Theresa. They rise with more 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 »9 
 
 than ordinary elevation above the low roofs; and, from the flatness 
 around, are visible at a great distance. 
 April 21st, left Raab at 6 a. m. 
 
 
 
 
 
 HUNGARY, 
 
 
 
 Posts. 
 
 Eng. 
 
 Miles, 
 
 Gonyo 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 
 — 
 
 Acs 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 Comorne (Komora) 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 Nezzmelij 
 
 _ 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 
 
 Neudorf 
 
 _ 
 
 1 
 
 _ 
 
 __ 
 
 Dorogh 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 Varsovar 
 
 • 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 13uda, or Often and P 
 
 esth 
 
 H 
 
 - 
 
 80. 
 
 We proceeded on the banks of the Danube : which river, di- 
 viding its waters, forms many islands covered with willows; some 
 of the more spacious of which are inhabited and contain many 
 acres: yet the arms are each like a considerable river; and, 
 when collected at Comorne, spread into one wide reach, or broad 
 sheet of lake. The Danube, indeed, is not only beautiful, but 
 there is no river in Europe which affords more advantages to the 
 countries through which it takes its course. In the middle of 
 the streams are placed many corn-mills of a curious construction, 
 differing in some measure from those I saw on it near Ratisbon; 
 which latter are built upon the boats (with a very huge wheel 
 between them) anchored, but floating upon any sudden swell of 
 the river. — At Comorne there is a confluence of the rivers Waag 
 and Danube. In 1783, this town was nearly destroyed by an 
 earthquake, and it is not yet restored from that dreadful cala- 
 mity. 
 
 Leaving the banks of the Danube much to the left, we found 
 ourselves on the wkle plains of Hungary, which though celebrated 
 for fertility in other seasons, now only presented thin herbage, — 
 or undulated sand, spreading, like the ocean, without boundary, 
 or objects for the eye to repose on. 
 
 At Nezzmelij we were gratified by a favourable specimen of 
 an Hungarian cottage. We held a short conversation with the 
 post-master, in Latin ; who proved more satisfactorily than we 
 had surmised, his acquaintance with that language. Speaking of 
 his wine, which was indeed very strong, he observed, " Melius 
 est cum aqua; quia purum ascendit sursum, et deturbat." 
 
 Some miles farther, at Varsovar, we overtook a procession, 
 composed of the inhabitants of the village, of both sexes and all 
 ages, in number about two hundred. Three boys bearing a cru- 
 cifix and the banner with the portrait of the patron saint, led the 
 procession ; which was divided into ranks, the children walking 
 
40 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 first, and then the men and women on each side. They all 
 joined in a hymn or service, which the parish-clerk walked in the 
 centre to regulate. The priest met them at the church ; where 
 the whole intention was to pray for rain after a drought of six 
 weeks. There was something very solemn and pleasing in this 
 ceremony; and the extreme simplicity of manners apparent in these 
 villagerss, almost reconciled Us to the fantastic execution of their 
 design. All universal neatness wars observable in their dress. The 
 men wore jackets of brown cloth, full-trimmed with blue silk 
 tassels ; long breeches or pantaloons ; and very broad shallow hats, 
 such as are seen in the pictures of Vandyck or Palamedes. The 
 Women had short petticoats; half-boots of red leather ; and their 
 hair, unusually plaited, hanging down the back, and tied with a 
 bunch of ribbands at the end. The scene was characteristic of the 
 people, who evinced an unaffected deportment rarely seen in 
 countries where refinement of manners has made a more decided 
 progress. — -As we drew nearer to Buda, images of pastoral life 
 with appropriate scenery recurred with pleasing effect. Among 
 the herds of oxen, goats, and sheep, we ob?erved the buffalo, for 
 the first time. This animal which we found as we advanced on 
 our journey, much more in use than any other, for agricultural 
 purposes as well as for draught, has a very ferocious aspect, and 
 an equally uncouth form. Its eyes glare; and sharp angular parts, 
 which are so ugly in the cow, are more conspicuous in the buffalo. 
 Yet it is a patient and tractable creature, with all its terrific ap- 
 pearance. The frequent groupes of cattle lowing and lingering 
 in their way to the village-fields, with the grotesque-looking pea- 
 sants driving them ; the glow of the evening sky; and the still and 
 mild air; were objects which disposed the mind to serenity not 
 often felt ; — a serenity which poets fancy, and philosophers 
 aspire to without success. 
 
 We were soon afterward in sight of Buda ; covering very 
 widely the bases of surrounding hills half-way to their summits, 
 and distinguished by many large buildings, and the delapidated 
 towers of its ancient walls. 
 
 Before the evening closed, we crossed the Danube upon the 
 platform of planks hud on boats ; which extend more than three 
 hundred yards, about the length of Westminster-bridge. We 
 took up our residence at a large inn at Pesth ; a city of nearly 
 equal size with the former, on the opposi'e bank of the river- 
 These cities were denominated by the Romans Aciniumand Con- 
 tra-Acinium. Buda was anciently the residence of the Hungarian 
 kings, and their metropolis; till Sigismund became emperor of Ger- 
 many, in 1410. Win n the Turks were firmly established at Con- 
 stantinople, they became more ambitious of extending their domini- 
 on in Europe. Their tumultuous armies soon forced the frontiers of 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 41 
 
 Hungary, and laid siege to the capital itself; which was first 
 taken in 1.025, by Solyman I.; when the king (Lewis II.) was 
 drowned fighting valiantly for his country. But the power of 
 the Ottoman sovereigns was not fully established before 1541; 
 when they constituted a pashalik or province consisting of all 
 Upper Hungary, the country between the Theisse and Danube, 
 Lower Hungary, from Strigone to Klisskaniza, the eastern part 
 of Sclavonia, and the greater part of Servia. This ill-fated 
 city was the scene of contention between the Imperialists and 
 Turks for many successive years. The military annals of no 
 country can furnish a more memorable siege than that in 1684, 
 when Buda was taken by assault from the usurpers. This siege 
 lasted from the 14th of July to the 1st of November in that 
 year; when the Imperialists raised the siege, after having lost 
 twenty thousand men: but by incredible efforts of valour, the 
 Turks regained their garrison at Pesth, on the opposite side of 
 the river. 
 
 The second siege, of equal celebrity, was under prince Eugene: 
 and continued from July 3, to September 2, l63(>; when Buda 
 was finally taken, and was confirmed to the emperor Leopold I. 
 by the treaty of Carlowitz, in 16Q.9< Of thirteen thousand Turks, 
 two thousand only remained to be taken prisoners; and Haly 
 Pasha, the governor, and several of their chiefs, died despe- 
 rately in the breach, having refused quarter from the Germans. 
 
 The places conquered or colonized by the Turks, universally 
 bore the marks of their peculiar customs, particularly of their 
 architecture. The cupolas of their mosques, with slender per- 
 forated columns called minarets, soon distinguished the outlines 
 of the view, in the distant prospects. Many of these were 
 doubtless destroyed at the last siege, by the German artillery: 
 others, which still remain, have been appropriated to Christian 
 worship; and were given to the Greek merchants, who have a 
 large settlement at Pesth, where they conduct the Levant trade 
 to Germany and (he Northern nations. 
 
 The warm-baths at Buda have been long famous. They are 
 strongly impregnated with sulphur and mineral, and esteemed 
 specific in many cases; but 1 could not learn their exact analysis, 
 liv the Turks they were considered as the most valuable luxuries 
 which they found there, and several remains of baths built in 
 their manner are still to be traced. They were usually large cir- 
 cular rooms; with cupolas very thickly perforated, and studded 
 over with small hemispherical glasses: and of such dimensions 
 as to admit a crowd of bathers- at the same time; particularly of 
 women,; who never frequented them singly. 
 
 Since the perfect re-establishment of the Austrian govern- 
 ment Buda has acquired much of the appearance of the old part of 
 
 ITINERARY.] G 
 
43 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 Vienna, notwithstanding many features of Turkish architecture. 
 At Pestb, which is principally occupied by merchants of several 
 nations, there is more of the modern style, and of resemblance 
 to other great towns. Our stay was extremely contracted ; as 
 we resumed our journey the next morning, leaving the course of 
 the Danube on our night hand. 
 
 We found, however, time to taste imperial Tokay, for which 
 Buda is famous:— but it was at a tavern; and the best/like Hock 
 in Germany, is found only in the cellars of the nobles and priests. 
 
 April 11. 
 
 1. 
 
 
 
 
 
 HUNGARY 
 
 
 
 
 Posts. 
 
 Eng 
 
 Miles. 
 
 Soroksar 
 
 _ 
 
 . 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 Ocsa 
 
 - 
 
 . 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 Inacks 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 Oerkeny 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 Foldeac 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 Ketskemeth 
 
 - 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 60. 
 
 Soon after our departure from Buda, the same level ground 
 continued, with few objects to beguile our way. Some spots of 
 corn, indeed: but no other vegetation; no trees but in the ex- 
 treme distance, bounding the horizon like land seen at sea. 
 
 Triste solum; sterilis, sine frugc, sine arbore, te'.lus. 
 
 Ovid. Met. viii. 790. 
 
 We seemed, as we advanced, to be always in the centre of a 
 circle, of which we were unable to conjecture the diameter. 
 From such vacant and tiresome views, we hoped, in vain, that 
 many posts would relieve us; but the roads were uninterrupted, 
 and excellent. We were now in the heart of Hungary; between 
 the Danube and the Theisse, the Pannonia of the Romans. 
 
 A single natural cariosity afforded some amusement. It was 
 the jumping mouse (called by Linnaeus and Masselquist mus 
 aculmj), which is seen in great numbers in these deserts. This 
 animal does not exceed the size of a large common mouse: it 
 supports itself only on its hind legs, which are much longer 
 than the others; and is therefore forced to hop or jump in its pro- 
 gressive motion. When it rests, it closes its fore-feet to its 
 belly, and sits upon its knees. Though not much alarmed by 
 our approach, yet, from the fleetness of their motion, they 
 would be very difficult to take alive. In most respects they are 
 the miniature of the kangaroo, an animal but lately brought 
 into Europe. — Our ingenious fellow traveller Dr. S. was 
 much occupied in catching a great variety of insects peculiar 
 to this country, and fastening them with pins to his hat; 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 43 
 
 which, at the end of our day's journey, was thus decorated with 
 the most brilliant colours. 
 
 We arrived at Ketskemeth early in the evening, and were ac- 
 commodated in a spacious inn. This large village consists of 
 whitened houses with roofs of reeds. In our principal room, 
 the younger inhabitants were celebrating their Easter; and dan- 
 cing to wild music; but the most lively aud best adapted I ever heard. 
 A dulcimer played by a lad of fifteen years, two guitars, and a 
 violoncello, made up the concert: the strain of which was ex- 
 tremely simple; and little varied except in measure as the figure 
 of the dance required. Three couple only danced at once. The. 
 men wore jackets full trimmed with guimp and lamb's wool, and 
 a profusion of small brass buttons; with long breeches, boots, 
 and spurs, which they clinked in time to the dance. The girls 
 wore stockings embroidered with worsted of different colours, 
 and had their long hair braided with ribbands. They com- 
 menced very slowly: but as the music changed, they grew more 
 animated; and the dance concluded by each man's placing his 
 hands on the waist of his partner, who likewise held him by his 
 shoulders, and in this position they reeled with such velocity 
 that they fell giddy to the ground. This dance, peculiar to the 
 Hungarians, is called " the wolsch;" and within these few last 
 years has been much in fashion in Germany as well as in Eng- 
 land, where it is called the waltz. These rustics were under 
 very little restraint in their enjoyment; and as more might be 
 collected respecting the manners of the people from this scene, 
 than from any that had hitherto occurred, I was glad to have 
 been present at a village festival in Hungary. 
 
 April 23. 
 
 3. 
 
 
 
 
 HUNGARY 
 
 
 
 Posts. 
 
 Eng 
 
 Miles, 
 
 Paka 
 
 r 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 Felegy-haza 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 Petery 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 Kistelek - 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 Szat-macz 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 — 
 
 Szegedin 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 - 
 
 60 
 
 The hilarity of these merry villagers, who were drinking the 
 strong wine of the country all night, made us the more willingly 
 pursue our route even before sun-rise. As we quitted Ketske- 
 meth, and the few corn-fields and pastures contiguous to it, we 
 found ourselves on the wide sandy plain. — The post-house at Pe- 
 tery exhibited a true picture of the extreme penury of the Hun- 
 garian peasant. It is a subterranean cottage, or rather hovel. 
 The keeper of the post had no shirt, but an untanned surtout of 
 eheep-skin ; his countenance was thick-covered with dirt ; and his 
 
mw** 
 
 
 44 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 hair was profusely anointed with hog's-lard, which unsightly cus- 
 tom is as general as it is offensive. But this unfortunate people 
 are liable to one of the mast dreadful diseases with which the 
 human race can possibly be afflicted: and the ointment is used 
 ei titer as a preventative or remedy, for the plica poloirica. In 
 that complaint even single hair is swelled to the size of a quill; 
 and the pain, inflammation, and foetid odour, are equally exces- 
 sive. The poor man's wife had a kirtle and shift only, without 
 shoes or stockings; and his children were bare of clothing. The 
 natives of Hudson's Bay can scarcely be more squalid and sa- 
 vage in their appearance; but there was no harshness or brutal- 
 ity in the manners of these peasants. .As our equipage required 
 many horses, we were detained at this miserable hut while seve- 
 ral men were driving all that were grazing on the plain into a pen, 
 that we might take our choice of them. These animals were as 
 lean and lazy as the inhabitants. They were tied together three 
 and four abreast to the carriages, with rope harness which we 
 had provided at Buda. 
 
 After a slow progress we reached Szegediu (Singidava Daciae) ; 
 once a city of antiquity, and inhabited by Roman colonists. A 
 principal event of its modern history is, that it was taken by the 
 Imperialists from the Turks in 1686, and completed their pos- 
 session of Hungary. — At Szegediw, is the junction of the Theisse 
 and the Marocz. 
 
 April 24. . HUNGARY. 
 
 Posts. 
 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 
 o 
 
 En?' Miles. 
 
 Horgaz - 
 
 Kleinkaniza 
 
 Mockrin - 
 
 Komlos - 
 
 Ozadat 
 
 Kleinbesker th - - 2 - 65 
 At Kleinkaniza we found an end to this immense plain, the full 
 length of which,, in a right line, without interruption, exceeds a 
 hundred and eighty miles. We now crossed the river Theisse 
 or Tibiscus, which, rising in the Carpathian mountains, becomes 
 here both wide and rapid. We were ferried over on a float ; 
 a mode of navigation always attended with considerable danger. 
 
 Our road to Kleinsbeskereth, where we rested, led through 
 morasses covered with tall reeds, or plains as barren as before. 
 Villages, or rather collections of huts, were more frequent; but 
 all around them was naked and bare. In several of them we 
 remarked the acacia, which is merely a shrub in England, here 
 a large unbrageous tree; and the chimnies of the low cottages 
 usually bore the nests of storks, which are uudisturbed and re- 
 vered as objects almost of religious regard. 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 45 
 
 April 25. Banat of Temeswar. 
 
 Posts. Enjr. Miles. 
 
 Temeswar 
 Kekas 
 Kesseto 
 Lugos 
 
 50 
 
 During a progress of two hundred miles, we observed no 
 castle or baronial seat ; in fact, no residence superior to that of 
 the farmer or peasant is to be seen. This is certainly the most 
 uncultivated tract in Hungary ; and as the great possessors of 
 lands give no encouragement to agriculture by their influence or 
 example, neither the people nor the country have much chance 
 of bettering their present condition. We entered the province 
 called the banat of Temeswar ; which was a Turkish pashalik, 
 and was retained by that people for three years after they had been 
 driven out of Hungary. This district, which had been laid waste 
 by all the horrors of war, having been colonised by the Austrians 
 in 1739, it was their policy to encourage the emigration of their 
 German subjects by large -rants of land ; so that no vestiges of 
 Turkish population remain, and the present owners retain the 
 customs and language of their immediate ancestors, little mixed 
 with the Hungarians. — There is also a greater appearance of ci- 
 vilization and agriculture ; and from many circumstances we could 
 imagine ourselves into some of the German provinces, beyond 
 the desolated region we had passed with so little worthy of atten- 
 tion or interest. 
 
 V\ e halted for a few hours at Temeswar, the capital of the 
 baimt : originally, when in possession of the Turks, so strong a 
 tow D as to resist the attacks of the Imperialists, who invested it 
 for three years in succession without effect ; but it was at length 
 taken in l(%)o' by the elector of Saxony. 
 
 It was then miserably built on the Turkish plan ; with covered 
 markets, under long cloisters, called bazarre. When ceded to 
 the Germans, it was totally new modelled ; and fortified to a great 
 extent, upon modem principles, with double bastions and ditches. 
 Except a convent and a church, the w hole town is a fortress, and 
 the streets little more than a range of low barracks. It is hardly 
 possible to describe the shape of the steeple, like most of these 
 erected by the Germans in Hungary: it has a globe covered with 
 lead, bulging out in the middle of a tall spire. And the artifi- 
 cially stagnated waters have added so much to the unwholsome- 
 ness of the country, that Temeswar is now become proverbial for 
 an endemial malady. 
 
 As we proceeded, the face of the country is more pleasing (bj 
 comparison only) ; with small tufts of trees/and more uneven ground, 
 
HHHH 
 
 
 46 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 We slept at Lugos, a very large village, after having eujoyed the 
 best supper the place afforded. The common diet of the coun- 
 try is black bread, very moist and sour, with which the post- 
 horses are likewise fed. We were favoured with white manchets, 
 •which would have been very good but for the sand which is 
 mixed with the flour in grinding the wheat. No less than eight 
 chickens not a month old, were brought in one dish. The wine 
 was dry and strong, and of the flavour which distinguishes that 
 made on the banks of the Rhine, — At Temeswar we were met 
 by a courier, who informed us, that the usual routes by Semlin 
 or Belgrade were rendered extremely dangerous, on account of 
 the plague then raging ; and the armed banditti then in a state of 
 rebellion against the Porte, ravaging the country, and plun- 
 dering all travellers who fell in their way. From these consi- 
 derations, the ambassador resolved on a more extended course, 
 throuh Transylvania and Wallachia. We were however, amply 
 recompensed for this long deviation, by seeing some very ro- 
 mantic and interesting countries, and of superior beauty to the 
 Turkish provinces of Servia and Bulgaria. 
 
 TRANSYLVANIA. 
 
 12(5. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Posts. 
 
 English Miles 
 
 JBoxsitr 
 
 ? 
 
 H 
 
 — 
 
 Faesett 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 — 
 
 Kowsoon 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 . — . 
 
 Crdzed 
 
 _ 
 
 1 
 
 . 
 
 Dobrah 
 
 - 
 
 1 
 
 50. 
 
 After quitting this rude collection of Huts, we began to ascend 
 the mountainous tract of Transylvania, beautifully wooded, and 
 cultivated in small patches with maize or Turkish corn. The 
 same objects were continued with no observable variety, to 
 Dobrah, another village, where we rested for the night. The 
 roads were particularly rough on the frequent hills, where they 
 were deeply worn by torrents of rain. — We were detained at the 
 post-house at Kowsoon, and were greatly amused by a dance of 
 Transylvanian villagers. The girls paid their compliments to us 
 by kissing our hands, and then applying them to their foreheads 
 with great respect. We distributed some small silver coin among 
 them ; which they received with raptures, thanking us aloud in 
 the Illyric language. — 
 
 April 27. TRANSYLVANIA, 
 
 Leshek 
 
 Devah 
 
 Szazvaros 
 
 Sibott 
 
 Mullenback 
 
 Posts. 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 IJ 
 
 1 
 1 
 
 English Miles. 
 
 50 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 47 
 
 The sun seldom surprised us in our beds; — we were, in gene- 
 ral, sufficiently induced lo quit the accommodations of the night, 
 and to enjoy the fresh air, as the heat of mid-day was oppressive. 
 A few miles brought us to the shores of the Marocz; which tfnn 
 flowed in a considerable stream through wide sand-banks, which 
 it occupies when the rain descends from the mountains. _A grand 
 screen of acclivities, shrouded with dwarf wood stretched to our 
 left. It is divided into numberless points, shelving to their bases 
 with singular regularity; and producing pyramids of almost co- 
 nical exactness, which rise behind each other in the thickest of 
 the groupes. 
 
 These mountains, which are of stupendous height, are com- 
 pletely covered with wood; a peculiarity not only pleasing from 
 its novelty, but giving them an inconceivable richness even in the 
 most distant view. On the summit of one of these we ob- 
 served the castle of Devah ; of a greater elevation than any 1 ever 
 saw in any country, and rifted in a promontory of a peninsular 
 shape connected with higher summits, which, being thrown back, 
 in this point of view, detract nothing from its sublimity. T!ie 
 castle, from its magnitude and rude construction, appears to be of 
 an antiquity even prior to the establishment of the Roman colony 
 by the emperor Trajan. What now remains of it is a vast oblong 
 tower, which was the citadel, flanked by an embattled wall, which 
 is doubled on the side undefended by an abrupt cliff. The town 
 of Dev^h, which was anciently commanded by it, extends at it* 
 feet. From the inn, where we halted to breakfast, the rock rise* 
 several hundred yards ; and the sudden elevation of this fortress 
 excites the greatest surprise. I consider it as a more striking ob- 
 ject even than the castle of Ehrenbreitstciu as seen from the 
 bridge of Coblentz. 
 
 Before we reached Szaz-varoz, where is a fallen castle encom- 
 passing a church, the grand ainphiteatre of Transylvanian heights 
 was expanded on every side, with groupes of cattle enlivening the 
 meadows on the banks of the Marocz. When we had crossed 
 that river, the scene became yet richer, by the endless intersection 
 of the skirting line of mountains. Some of them were marked 
 with volumes of smoke from the smelting-works at Kremnitz and 
 Schemnitz, established by the Austrian government for the mines, 
 which produce silver in large quantities and some gold. Almost 
 all travellers through this district have noticed these celebrated 
 mines ; which exceed any in Europe, both in depth and in va- 
 luable produce. The number of their subterranean inhabitants 
 is very great ; many of whom, in families, pass whole years with- 
 out beholding the light of the sun. Some of these are condemned 
 for crimes ; but the greater part voluntarily submit to such a 
 privation of all human comfort . 
 
48 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROJI 
 
 We traversed this open plain till night ; when we arrived at 
 Mullenbach; a fortified town, with gates, and a very ancient 
 church built with great strength, and with no marks of what in 
 other countries is styled ecclesiatical architecture. 
 
 April 28. 
 
 Reismark 
 
 Mag 
 
 Hermannstadt 
 
 Posts. 
 
 1 
 1 
 1 
 
 TRANSYLVANIA. 
 
 Eng. Miles. 
 
 At the village of Sibot we remarked the old church inclosed 
 within an embattled wall, flanked with several lowers; and, upon 
 nearer inspection, found a number of small cells or rooms of 
 equal dimensions ranged around. If this has not been a monas- 
 tery, it has afforded sanctuary against the incursions of the Turks, 
 and served as the last retreat of the wretched inhabitants from 
 plunder and carnage. W heu the Turks were completely masters 
 of the country, it were reduced to the ruins which we saw. — A 
 very agreeable incident, such as we had before observed, now oc- 
 curred. A few miles farther on our road there was a rustic dance, 
 with a large assemblage of young persons of both sexes. It being 
 Sunday, they were dressed with all the neatness and ornament they 
 could command; and exhibited an interesting picture of provin- 
 cial habiliment and manners. The girls were lightly clothed : 
 their hair, in a long braid, was tied with ribbons at the end, or 
 coiled round the head several tunes. They wore a shift of coarse 
 linen, from the neck to the ancles; with full sleeves, tied above 
 the elbow, and worked with many kinds of worsted. Two aprons 
 of the same materials, woven w ith a thick and deep fringe, were 
 tied round the waist, and open on each side, not reaching so low 
 as the shift. Many had their feet bare, while others wore clumsy 
 buskins of red leather. Several were pointed out to us as mo- 
 thers, who had not exceeded their fourteenth year. The music 
 cousisted of a guitar with a long finger-board; and a kind of 
 hautboy made of the bark of a tree, which produced much softer 
 tones than could have been expected from its rude shape. 
 
 At Mag, the mistress of the post addressed us in fluent Latin j 
 and bade us adieu with the old Homan salutation at the com- 
 mencement of a new year, " Multos et felices, domim!" She was 
 an officer's widow. — The late e mperor Joseph g< nerally appointed 
 persons connected with the army to direct the post, as a provision 
 for them, with a trifling pension. It is asserted that the Latin 
 language is vernacular at this time in no part of Europe except. 
 in what was once the Colouia Trajana, in which Transylvania 
 is included. People of the lowest degree of education .are able 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 49 
 
 to read it, and probably to speak it, with a certain purity ; but 
 the peasants mix it with Illyric. It would be more accurate to 
 say, that, instead of their talking Latin, there were more indi- 
 viduals acquainted with that language than in any other country 
 now existing. 
 
 At Reismark, previously to our ascending a mountain some 
 miles across, six oxen were put to each carriage, which were en- 
 couraged by the incessant vociferations of their drivers. Having 
 by this tedious march at length gained the summit, nothing could 
 be seen beyond the points ot* surrounding hills on every side of 
 inferior height. At lour o'clock, p. m. we found ourselves at the 
 gates of Hermannstadt. 
 
 April 29 and 30. 
 
 Hours. 
 Tahnach (Kalmesch) 4 
 
 Kinanij (i 
 
 TRANSYLVANIA, 
 
 Ens. Miles. 
 
 40. 
 
 WALACIIIA 
 
 The walls of Hermannstadt are not of high antiquity, without 
 battlements, but flanked by frequent towers, all of which have 
 high tiled roofs and scolloped brackets. The walk round the 
 ramparts does not command any advantageous view of them. The 
 town has been re-built since the Austrian possession, and is now 
 occupied by a large garrison. It has one large church, built by 
 Maria Theresa, with a globe and steeple not easily described. In 
 the great square is the house of the governor, Count Boucken- 
 thal, in the best German style, with courts and offices. He gave 
 us a handsome dinner, and Tokay with the desert. His apart- 
 ments contained many good pictures, and one interesting to us, 
 found at such a distance from England, an excellent head of 
 Charles I. by Vandyke. 
 
 We departed early in the morning from Hermannstadt, and at 
 Tahnaseh reached the range of Carpathian mountains, now called 
 Tagaressen: it was necessary to ascend them by an arduous jour- 
 ney, as they have a very sudden and sublime elevation, with their 
 summits still white with snow. The ruins of a fortress, probably 
 coeval with the Romans, crowns one of the lower points. A 
 few miles of almost impracticable height led us into the heart of 
 a forest, formed by clusters of pyramidal hills, piled in masses, 
 which seem to pierce the sky. They are closely invested with 
 low wood and innumerable shrubs of great beauty then in full 
 bloom, and divided by many narrow defiles, through which the 
 occasional torrents force their way to the river Olta, or Aluta, 
 beneath, which iirst shows a wide reach at Roden Thnrn, an old 
 fortification. By the treaty with the Turks, this spot was destined 
 
 ITINERARY.! W 
 

 
 .00 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 to be the future barrier of the Austrian and Ottoman empires. 
 We now entered on the " Via Carolina," upon which stands a pe- 
 destal, marked " Via Carolina in Dacijs aperta ] 717," and on ano- 
 ther about twelve miles farther, " Sta viator ubi natura stare jussit 
 et ubi virtus Trajani stetit,"toith more such exorbitant praise, suita- 
 ble to the vanity of the Emperor Charles VI. Few public works 
 could less deserve encomium, being originally laid out without 
 skill, and forced upon a craggy terrace, without rails or parapet, 
 many vards above the river, when it might with greater ease have 
 been formed along its shores. Had not this perilous way arrested 
 every moment's attention, the constant recurrence of scenery so 
 sublime, in valleys so deep and stupendous, shifting and repeating 
 their perpendicular sides and avenues so frequently, and excluding 
 almost the whole horizon, are objects too peculiarly magnificent 
 to admit of any cessation of admiration. 
 
 " Contiuui months ni dissocientur opacfi 
 Yallc." 
 
 IIor. 1. J, cpist. 16. 
 
 Leaving the a Via Carolina," we descended into a valley to 
 the village of Kinanij, and prepared tor our evening repast. Two 
 kids were roasted in the open air, which, with black bread and 
 strong rough wine, made us a supper, much to be envied as we 
 ■advanced nearer the, close of our journey. The cottage where I 
 slept contained children, lambs, kids, and poultry. I had the 
 advantage of sleeping upon straw, upon a raised stage of boards, 
 surrounded with this noisy company. The peasants were well 
 paid for this accommodation, and willingly resigned their cot- 
 tages. Under a high entrenchment, thrown up by the Austrians in 
 their walS with the Turks', the church, being the first which we 
 saw on the Greek model, attracted notice. The architecture is 
 indeed very rude; but the plan an evident imitation of an ancient 
 temple. The dimensions are small, with a vestibule, having an 
 open arcane and covered ceiling, which, with the front wall, is 
 painted in fresco, and gilt with figures of saints, scriptural legends, 
 and many inscriptions in the Walachian character. The eastern 
 end is embowed, and near the centre rises alow rotunda, having 
 a closed arcade and conic roof, with few and narrow w indowe. Of 
 several that afterward occurred on our progress, this building was 
 strictly resemblant, excepting that of some, the outside walls were 
 likewise painted with a kind of mosaic cornice, and they had two 
 towers with slated roofs projecting over the sides. The walis 
 within are entirely covered with rude paintings of the Madona 
 and Child, upon grounds Oi' gilding, and without light and shade, 
 Ktrewed with insciptions. We had now entered Walachia, and 
 the inutle of computing our, journey was by hours, as used in all 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 51 
 
 the Eastern countries, which, with the numerous impediments, 
 rare!)' exceed four or live miles. 
 
 May I 
 
 
 
 
 W ALACHIA 
 
 
 Hours. 
 
 Ettg, Miles, 
 
 
 Dideschti - 
 
 a 
 
 — 
 
 
 Seletruck - 
 
 3 
 
 - 25. 
 
 
 Crossing the Aluta, beyond Ivinnnij, we encountered a long 
 succession of steep hills, which join each other by the narrowest 
 bases, generally occupied by small streams. These accumulated 
 mountains wind as the river shapes its course between them, and 
 seem often to exclude all farther progress, when scenes are pre- 
 sented which combine every grand feature of landscape, in the 
 glens are the variegated tints of silky leaves of low shrubs, inter- 
 mixed with broad scars of purple rock, which overhang the de- 
 vious and rugged road. The whole of a long day was passed in 
 ascending these heights, till we reached by torch-light a cottage 
 on the banks of the Dopologo, at Seletruck. We were glad to 
 retire to rest, with no bettei accommodations than those we 
 found the preceding night. In this district are many large vine- 
 yards, which require but little cultivation, and produce a great 
 quantity of wine : but the peasants are entirely ignorant of the 
 process used in other countries, both in making and keeping it ; 
 the llavour therefore is inferior. 
 
 May 2. 
 
 WALACH1A, 
 
 
 Hours. 
 
 Eng. Miles 
 
 Ardisch 
 
 3 
 
 
 
 Piteschti 
 
 - 3 
 
 40. 
 
 Having continued our route for several hours among the moun- 
 tains, we descended into a wide plain, covered with frequent 
 thickets and inclosures planted with Turkish corn, lentils, and 
 water-melons. We came near Ardisch, which is a town having 
 six churches, and of course large, on our left hand, but did not 
 pass through it. There is a very spacious convent of Greek 
 monks, with several cupolas highly ornamented with twisted 
 columns, having the appearance of Turkish minarehs. In point 
 of architecture and revenues, this monastery exceeds any in YVala- 
 chia. From this place, where several young women met us carry- 
 ing sieves, in which was a little Turkish corn, which they offered 
 us as a compliment, we were accompanied by a guard to Piteschti. 
 The dress of these girls very nearly resembled what we had seen 
 in Transylvania. I. pon our arrival' in the evening we were po- 
 litelv received by two officers of the town, who had prepared a 
 
 H 2 
 
o r Z 
 
 AN II! N EBAHY J ROM 
 
 house for us, and provided a supper a In Grcgue. We wer« 
 served with many dishes in .succession, hut with one only at the 
 same time; and were extremely well inclined to praise the 
 cookery, VVe slept upon carpets placed on a raised door. At 
 sunrise we were awakened by the mode in which the mode in 
 Greeks are called to prayer. As the Turks hold hells in ab- 
 horrence, and will not suffer them in air. of their dominions, the 
 expedient is, suspending a piece of board in the steeples, and 
 playing on it with two hammeis, which produce a ioud and Vary- 
 ing sound, to be heard at a great distance. 
 
 Some of the more expert form a kind of tune, by no means im- 
 pleading. The Greek religion is professed in Walachia. Their 
 metropolitan and bishops are subject to the patriarch atConsUm- 
 tinople, but appointed by the hospodar or prince. Their reve- 
 nues are very considerable, as well .is those of twelve monasteries, 
 from which only the stip< riora of the chinch can be elected. For 
 this, among other causes, the parochial clergy are ignorant, and 
 chosen irom the lowest ranks; many of them in so great a degree, 
 as to be scarcely able to read the Greek ritual. 
 
 May 3. walachia. 
 
 Gavescliti 
 
 Hours. 
 
 I) 
 
 F.ug. Miles. 
 30. 
 
 The same flat country continued, in which nature showed great 
 fertility, little assisted by cultivation. We forded several slioaly 
 streams, near which were villages, which offered nothing to inte- 
 res The whole country appeared to be very thinly inhabited ; 
 even that part of it which possessed the greatest natural advan- 
 tages : but cattle of all kinds were abundant. Near the way-side 
 are set up many crosses, made of a singular shape; and beams 
 of wood, carved with inscriptions in the Y\ alaclnan character. We 
 learned that they had been placed for the repose of the souls of 
 their kindred by tin 1 inhabitants, and that their names were spe- 
 cified upon each. The (< Aijasma," or consecrated springs, are 
 likewise seen at stated distances. These are protected by a small 
 building, in which is an iron bowl, chained, to refresh the weary 
 passenger, who usually performs a religious ceremony, and re- 
 peats prayers. The climate of Walachia is delightful, as the heat 
 is tempered by the breezes from the mountains. The summer 
 was scarcely begun; and we were not much incommoded by it. 
 This evening we were conducted to a small convent at Gayeschti. 
 It has a church, surrounded by mean buildings, and a moat full of 
 the large hoarse frog, incessantly croak ing. There are only four reli- 
 gious, who are married, and cultivate their own land. They wear a 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 $3 
 
 dark brown habit, and a cap of black felt, of a peculiar shape, and 
 have spreading beards. 
 
 The Egumenos, or principal, received us with much com- 
 placency, as he expected to gain considerably by our visit. Not- 
 withstanding, our fare was homely, a pilao of rice and some len- 
 tils ; and a course carpet was spread as usual for our night's re- 
 pose. Horace has very truly said, — 
 
 mali culices ranseque palustrcs 
 
 Arertuht sontuos. 
 
 Sat. iv. v. 14. 
 
 May 4. 
 
 Floreschti 
 Bucharest 
 
 Hours. Eng. Mile-. 
 3 - — 
 
 3 - 80. 
 
 WALACHTA. 
 
 which capital is situated on the river Domboriza. 
 
 The Hospodar, a* the reigning prince is styled, had sent Ins 
 chariot, drawn by six grey horses, on the preceding night, and one 
 of the officers of his household, called the Rhativan, to arrange 
 our reception at Bucharest, where we arrived early in the after- 
 noon. The house of the master of the post was appropriated to 
 our use, containing two large apartments fitted up in the same 
 style, which, according to the manner of the country, served us 
 for every purpose. A raised floor in each, covered with a blue car- 
 pet, and surrounded by a dm\n or continued sofa of square cu- 
 shions, afforded us repose by day and night; for a bed is as little 
 known in Walachia as in Turkey. luciced, the whole style, both 
 of dress and furniture, is that of the Turks, rather than of other 
 nations. This circumstance is readily accounted for, as their prince 
 and his multitudinous suite of Greek nobility are natives of Con- 
 stantinople, where they h.ive passed the greater part of their lives, 
 and have brought its customs with them. They place heavy 
 pieces of tapestry before the doors of each chamber, where ser- 
 vants are in constant waiting, and are called by clapping the hands. 
 We were attended by the prince's servants, among whom he did 
 not forget to send several cooks. 
 May 5. 
 
 Before noon the ambassador, whom we accompanied, was ad* 
 mitted to an audience with the prince, at his palace. No resi- 
 dence could have less the air of royalty, or fewer pretensions to 
 splendour. The state coach which he sent for us was drawn 
 by six horses, and eight Tchoadaars or pages walked at our side. 
 They were habited in close white dresses of cotton, with green 
 silk sashes, tyed in large bows, and high fur caps on their heads. 
 The external appearance of the palace is certainly mean, built of 
 
JWH* 
 
 
 o4 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 timber, ami low, with slated towers over the-' gateways. The 
 great staircase loads from a base court, which, beside the palace, 
 contains a church and a range of barracks. As these princes do 
 nut constantly inhabit it during their short and precarious govern- 
 ment, they are careless about its present unsuitable state ; and they 
 spare as little as possible from what they amass from their tem- 
 porary subjects, to enjoy in their own country, for any magnifi- 
 cence in this. 
 
 The Postelnik, or high-marshal, introduced us through a 
 crowd of bojars, of the native nobility, who lined the passage to 
 the presence-chamber, where the Hospodar, descending from 
 his divan, received the ambassador with great courtesy. His 
 name is Alessandro Moroozi, about six and thirty years old, his 
 person and air much in his favour, his eyes piercing and intel- 
 ligent, with a look of uncommon shrewdness. He wore a close 
 vest of flowered muslin; his poignard was studded at the hilt 
 with diamonds, a pink caftan, or robe of damask, with broad 
 facing of ermine, and a kalpac or high cap of green velvet, with 
 the black fox-skin, so much valued in Turkey as to be worn only 
 by the sultan. We were seated with him but a few .minutes, 
 when four pages brought napkins of silk, richly embroidered, and 
 fringed with gold,, and laid them on our knees previously to a 
 confection of oranges, which was handed to each of us with the 
 same golden spoon. Small cups of coffee, made very thick and 
 strong, in the Turkish fashion, were then served ; and in a short 
 time after, as a signal for departure, the pages covered us again 
 with line muslin napkins, fringed with gold, and poured rose- 
 water on our bauds with gold ewers and basons; and lastly, held 
 a pot of incense under our noses. More than fifty of the officers 
 of state and bojars stood around us. The chamber is large, with 
 white walls, only excepting that the bead of the pannel in the ceil- 
 ing is gilt, and with no furniture but the divan and chair of state. 
 The prince conversed fluently in French with the ambassador 
 about his journey and accommodations. He understands other 
 languages, having been dragoman, or interpreter, to the GraiKl 
 Vizier; and acted as a commissioner at the signing the peace 
 with the Austrians at Sestovia in 1789, «oon after the accession 
 of Selim III. the reigning emperor, where his services procured 
 him this high post. He possesses some patriotism, and an under- 
 standing more enlarged, than that of many of his predecessors, 
 by intercourse with foreigners. He is said to govern with cle- 
 mency a people inured to every description of rapacity, and has 
 established aregular post, a printing-press, and a manufactory of 
 cloth, which has not succeeded. His birth was noble, his father 
 having been Hospodar of Moldavia, and chief of the Moroosi, 
 descended from the Greek emperors, and which, in common 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 b3 
 
 with the houses of Maurokordato, Loozo, and Cantacuzene, 
 enjoys the principalities of Walaehia and Moldavia, as their 
 interest prevails at the Porte, though seldom more than four 
 years, without removal or violent death. He was therefore edu- 
 cated in courts, where he acquired that finesse and political acute- 
 ness to which he owes his present elevation. Yet, as he pos- 
 sesses all the intriguing spirit of his predecessors, his reign may 
 not be of longer duration. He has two brothers resident at 
 Constantinople, the younger of whom is chief interpreter to the 
 Porte; an office of high political consequence. The entertain- 
 ment we received at the hotel was liberal, and the collations 
 elegant. An attention was even paid to English taste. Plumb- 
 puddings were brought upon Staffordshire ware, and several 
 dishes were on table at the same time. 
 
 A dragoman, or interpreter, wad assigned to us, who was a 
 man of considerable intelligence, and ready to communicate his 
 knowledge of the country : from him 1 learned many of the fol- 
 lowing particulars. The bojars, or native nobility, had formerly 
 the privilege of electing their prince, who was confirmed by the 
 Porte ; but their appointment now originates solely there, and an 
 annual tribute is paid of 40,0001. besides secret presents of vast 
 amount, to the officers of state, both to procure and preserve the 
 station. They lost this privilege in 1714, which they had enjoyed 
 since 1520; upon which Constantine Brancovani, the last native 
 Waiachian prince, was beheaded. The Porte then nominated 
 Nicolas Maurokordato, without consulting the bojars. The 
 descendants of the Greek emperors were formerly content to 
 apply to the humble occupation of merchants ; but this appoint- 
 ment excited their ambition, and they sent their sons to Bucha- 
 rest to learn European languages, and to qualify themselves for 
 the appointment of interpreter to the Porte, which then certainly 
 led to the principalities of Walaehia and Moldavia. The inter- 
 preters formerly employed were Christian renegadoes. Since the 
 establishment of the Greek princes in Walaehia and Moldavia, 
 fifteen of them have suffered a violent death. 
 
 During the late Russian war, this fertile country was nearly 
 exhausted by the foraging of the Turkish army; and the miserable 
 villagers abandoned their flocks, and retired to the mountains. As 
 descendants of the Trajan colony, they still call themselves Ro- 
 mans; and their vernacular language is a mixture of Latin and 
 Sclavonian : the former is extremely debased. At court, the mo- 
 dern Greek and Turkish prevail. The arts and sciences are not 
 more flourishing in Walaehia than in other countries subjugated 
 by the Ottoman power. Some study medicine in Germany or 
 Padua; and the merchants speak Italian and modern Greek. 
 

 
 KB 
 
 5() 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 The people in general are extremely superstitious, and duped by 
 the most illiterate priests : they believe in sorcery and ghosts. 
 About lii'tv years ago, Constantine Maurokordato, when prince, 
 printed a dictionary in three volumes quarto, in .modern Greek, 
 French, and Italian, for the use of his subjects; but this effort 
 towards literature has not been seconded, and few books are to 
 be found, excepting of the Greek service and religion, half in 
 Sclavonian, and the other in modern Greek. The trade of Wa- 
 lachia is principally confined to the sending provisions down the 
 .Danube to Constantinople, as the pasturage is excellent, and the 
 corn and wine abundant. The Aluta is navigable only for rafts 
 of timber and fiat boats. The Zingani or gypsies, who are very 
 numerous, and exclusively exercise the business of blacksmiths, 
 find quantities of gold dust in the sands of the Aluta, for which 
 they, last year, paid a tribute to government of l°/24 drachms, 
 which produced 100:3 when refined. Minerals of every descrip- 
 tion which are found in Hungary are not less discoverable in the 
 Walachiau mountains; yet, from fear of the Turks, or their own 
 want of enterprize, not a single mine is worked in the whole 
 country. Those of rock-salt as clear as crystal, are frequent, and 
 produce a large revenue. The manners and houses of the Wala- 
 chians resemble those of their Turkish masters. They wear the 
 long dress: the older men have beards, and the younger whiskers. 
 The women are seldom seen in the streets, or exposed to the 
 public eye. In the houses are galleries, with close lattices or 
 windows, made with dried hog's-bladderf ; for glass is very un- 
 common. 
 
 In the evening our dragoman conducted us to sec the mar- 
 riage-ceremony of one of the bojars of an inferior class. Guests 
 of both sexes, but no unmarried ladies, were assembled in the 
 larger chamber, who sat on cushions cross legged, like the tai- 
 lors in England, as chairs are not in use. A dance of very an- 
 cient invention, called the Romeika, began after we had paid our 
 compliments. It was conducted entirely by females; one of 
 whom waved an embroidered handkerchief, and extricated her- 
 self gracefully from the rest, who coiled round her. The music 
 consisted of a lively air by two violins, as many guitars with 
 strings of cat-gut, and a syrinx or unequal pipe, as seen on statues 
 of Pan and the Satyrs, which was managed with extraordinary skill, 
 and produced tones of great sweetness and effect. Lady M. W. 
 Montague asserts, with truth, that " there is not one instrument 
 to be found on the Grecian and Roman statues, which will not 
 be seen in the hands of the people of this country," a more cer- 
 tain demonstration of their origin, than even the small resemblance 
 to Latin still retained in their language. The company was 
 perpetually changing, and sometimes exceeded forty persons. 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 57 
 
 Upon admission, the elderly ladies not joining in the dance, were 
 shewn to the divan, where they squat down without ceremony: 
 and where, as a great distinction, we were placed. The men 
 sat round the room ; and some of them smoked pipes made of 
 sticks of Jasmin wood, several feet long, and red China boles, 
 with very odoriferous tobacco. A married lady, searely sixteen, 
 and of superior beauty, handed us a confection of oranges, which 
 was followed by coffee, liqueurs, and lemonade; a ceremony which 
 she performed with unaffected elegance of manner. A second 
 dance commenced, which was ill assorted to a lively air ; for it 
 was slow and solemn. All hands were joiued, and the whole 
 figure consisted in curtseys and soft motion. JDuring the dance> 
 one of the performers accompanied with an epithalamium in the 
 Walachian language, loudly sang, and with vehement exertions to 
 impress the audience with the excellence of his rhymes. We 
 were told that he was an extemporaneous poet, famous for ready 
 composition, like the improvisatori in Italy. 
 
 After a short time we were allowed to see the new-married 
 couples who had retired to a small room opening to the other, 
 in which, as a luxury suited to the occasion, was a bed. The 
 bridegroom, about forty, held the hand of his bride, a younger 
 sister of the lady who had done the honours, whilst they received 
 the compliments of their friends. The bride looked modestly, 
 but had no singularity of dress, beside a long rose-coloured veil, 
 then turned backward over her head. Of the dress and persons 
 of the Walachiaus many observations occur. The ladies, even in 
 the early periods of life, possess little to fascinate the eyes of an 
 Englishman; and when they have attained more years, they be- 
 come more corpulent and unsymetrical in shape. Their necks 
 are very thinly covered with transparent gauze, and a girdle, with 
 a broad clasp, is buckled very low round the waist. 
 
 Tereti stropbio luctantes viucta papillas; 
 Etjacent collo sparsi sine lege capiili. 
 
 Ovid., 
 
 Their hair is very generally coarse, black, and luxuriant, combed 
 over the forehead, hanging over the ears uncurled, or braided over 
 the shoulders. On the crown of the4iead is a small cap of white 
 cloth, bound with a wreath of coloured muslin, and decked with 
 tinsel and beads of glass, if they have no jewels. Natural flowers 
 arc a very common ornament. Over a vest of white muslin they 
 wear a jacket of satin, closely fitted to the waist, and faced with 
 fur or ermine. The ancle is covered by the petticoat, which 
 shews only the yellow slippers. More taste is not to be disco- 
 vered in the dress of the men ; for the head is shorn, excepting on 
 ITINERARY.] 1 
 
m mw. 
 
 59 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 the crown, which is covered by a red cap, called a fez, in the 
 place of a wig, and a kalpac of lamb's wool over it, which serves 
 as a hat. Their ears are wholly exposed, and, with the naked 
 neck behind, have an awkward appearance. Corpulency is very 
 common, particularly in middle age ; and its appearance much 
 increased by the vest being used as a pocket in front. These 
 heavy clothes, loaded with furs, are little adapted to the heat of 
 the climate; but in dress of ceremony, scarcely any alteration is 
 made on account of season. Fashion has here no influence: the 
 habits of either sex have not varied for ages past, and 1 have de- 
 scribed them, as being peculiar to the Greeks in every part of the 
 Turkish dominions. 
 
 The approach to Bucharest shows a vast extent of buildings 
 and numerous cupolas ; for it is said to contain 400 convents and 
 churches. But, in fact, this metropolis so little resembles the 
 continued streets cf other capitals, that it is nothing more than a 
 collection of villages, without regularity or plan. The streets 
 are paved transversely w ith planks of wood, badly fastened, and 
 much decayed ; so that walking is rendered infinitely tedious. 
 Nearly in the centre of the town are many rows of open shops, 
 Bazars on the Turkish plan, which are pi otected from the mid- 
 day sun by a roof of timber frame extending from side to side. A 
 great variety of wares are exhibited, and mechanics employed. 
 Adjoining to this building is the square and great church of St. 
 George, the patron saint of Walachia, in the best modern Greek 
 style. The plan is the same as those already described, upon a 
 much larger scale of dimensions and ornament. The portico is 
 supported by short spiral columns, with capitals of the composite 
 order, or imclassical imitation of the Corinthian. The facade is 
 painted in fresco in compartments of some scriptural story, or 
 mosaic moulding! ; and each of the eupolas to the cornice of 
 their roofs. Within they serve as louvres, and give necessary 
 light, as the windows are few ynd narrow. The internal area is 
 uninterrupted by :-c;its, which are single, and fixed to the side 
 walls. Fresco paintings of saints, particularly of the equestrians 
 St. George and St. l)enictrius, as large as life, are spread over 
 every part, and add in no small degree to the characteristic 
 gloom. The altar is concealed by a painted skreen. All the 
 Greek churches are highly perfumed with incense. It may be 
 conjectured, from analogv, that the ancient temples furnished the 
 original ide;;s of these edifices : rudely as they are finished, the 
 architectural ornaments are to be traced in many a barbarous 
 adaption of columns of antiquity to capitals of their own im- 
 perfect formation, as in Constantinople in the mosques and Greek 
 churches 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 59 
 
 The patriarchal church is larger, and has four cupolas, adjoin- 
 ing to the palace of the archbishop, which, with a monastery, 
 is situate on an eminence commanding a pleasant view of the 
 city. 
 
 Added to the cares which disturb the enjoyment of the most 
 secure throne, the Hospodar has those which render him the 
 least enviable of European princes. Before he obtains his post, 
 he must have exhausted all the stratagems of courts, assisted by 
 bribery ; and, after his establishment, must harass his subjects 
 to procure supplies for the insatiable avarice of the Porte. In 
 the Russian wars, his country is generally the scene of military 
 transactions ; and if his conduct be not extremely circumspect, 
 he pays the forfeit of his head, upon suspicion of favouring their 
 advances. Whenever the great Pashas of Bulgaria or Romelia 
 declare a rebellion, they forage his devoted provinces without 
 mercy, and the most terrible devastations have been committed 
 before the Turks have thought it expedient to leave Constantino- 
 ple in order to restrain them. Of all the princes of Walachia 
 who have fallen sacrifices to the avarice or jealousy of the Turks, 
 the hardest fate seems to have been that of Constantine Bessara- 
 bas, after a virtuous reign of twenty-one years. During a Russian 
 war, he was apprehended with his son, and conveyed to the prison 
 of the Seraglio ; and after a confinement of six months, in which 
 every hope had been given him of regaining his station, Sultan 
 Achmet III. suddenly ordered his son to be executed, and after- 
 ward himself, in the view of the whole court. 
 
 The happiest event any of these princes can anticipate, is the 
 power of retiring, after a few years, having made themselves and 
 their numerous relatives and dependants wealthy, to a palace on 
 the shores of the Bosphorus, and the enjoyment of Asiatic luxury. 
 \ et, even there, their restless ambition prompts them to new in- 
 trigues, and not one instance is known of a Greek prince, who 
 could refrain from means of endangering his safety, to be hurried 
 to a new appointment, from the very solitude he panted after. 
 
 The bojars and officers of the court, who are always of the 
 prince's family, have large revenues, and opportunities of making 
 money rapidly. All these are supplied by the oppression of the 
 people, who suffer more in their property than their persons. 
 
 The natural arrogance of the Greek character is very apparent 
 in their manners, unchecked by the presence of the Turks. 
 
 May 7th.— 8th. 
 
 Copochen 
 Catagoren 
 1 >ajah - 
 
 Y\ ALACH1A. 
 
 Hours. F,tiL r . Mik\> 
 
 i 2 
 
|Hb 
 
 60 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 We left Bucharest at ten o'clock in the morning, the prince 
 having deputed ten of his baschliars, or body-guard, to protect us 
 to Constantinople. We were likewise joined by Signor Giacco- 
 mazzi, and his attendants, the secretary of the Venetian embassy. 
 Two merchants availed themselves of the opportunity of travel- 
 ling in safety to Constantinople, so that our whole cavalcade 
 Mas considerable. Our road led through vineyards or wide 
 thickets, till we came to Copochen, where, as usual, we took 
 possession of wretched cottages for the night. There are no 
 inns in Walachia, and the post-houses do not afford any accom- 
 modation, excepting horses, which are small and weak, and sel- 
 dom used in drawing carriages. At five in the morning our ter 
 dious course was resumed over the same rich, but neglected ter- 
 ritory to Catagoren and Dajah, at which last place we rested a 
 few hours, during the heat of mid-day. There are many remains 
 of Roman architecture in Walachia, but none of them lay near 
 our road or came within our observation. At one time we were 
 about thirty miles from the famous bridge built by the emperor 
 Trajan over the Danube, the piers and other parts of which are 
 still seen near Widdin. The cottages at Dajah are built partlv 
 under ground against a hill, with the earth heaped over a roof 
 of wicker, and in front a shed upon poles ; but the inhabitants 
 are decently dressed, and had some excellent coffee in the Turkish 
 manner, to which travellers soon become reconciled, and allow 
 k to be the greatest refreshment on a journey which can be of- 
 fered. 
 
 Mav 9th. 
 
 h. 
 
 
 BULGARIA 
 
 
 Knurs. 
 
 Enfr. Miles. 
 
 Guirgevow (Hirshova) 
 
 5 
 
 — 
 
 Rustchiuk 
 
 1 
 
 
 
 Turlak 
 
 o 
 
 40. 
 
 We entered Bulgaria, the Morsia of the Romans, before we 
 arrived at Guirgevow, the first town which may be considered 
 as intirely Turkish, where every house is closed toward the street 
 with high palisadoes, excluding approach. Before the last war, 
 Guirgevow was the chief port, whence the merchandise of 
 Walachia, consisting principally in hides and the provisions of 
 life, were embarked for Turkey and the Black Sea. A fort, in- 
 considerable in point of extent, commands a broad reach of the 
 Danube, more characteristic than others of that noble but di- 
 vided river. After many advantages gained by the Russians, the 
 Turks, who never distrust their own valour, made a furious 
 Stand at this fortress, and were again defeated, December 6, 
 ^773. The Vizier immediately published through the army, 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 61 
 
 that the town had been betrayed, and Mavroigeni, the hospodar 
 of Walachia, was brought from Bucharest, and beheaded before 
 his tent. By this expedient of averting a sense of their disgrace, 
 the degenerate Janizaries were kept together for another battle, 
 and prevented from flying to their shops at Constantinople ; but 
 they were reserved for a still more ignominious defeat. 
 
 In order to gain a more eligible road, we took a large boat 
 with eight oars, and opposed the stream of the Danube very 
 pleasantly, for about two miles. U pon the left-hand shore, over 
 an abrupt bank of porous sand, are scattered many Turkish 
 houses, dispersed in thick groves of cedar and fruit-trees. These 
 were the outskirts of the town of Rustchiuk, and the country re- 
 treat of its more wealthy inhabitants. We landed under an old 
 castle, still garrisoned, which, with many minare-hs nearly as 
 lofty as spires, and chiosques, or summer houses, built and 
 painted with many colours in the Chinese manner, enlivened a 
 river view more than half a mile broad, with many novel and 
 agreeable objects. 
 
 The Turkish provincial towns, in general, cover much ground, 
 and it is no proof of great population that they are of great ex- 
 tent. Rustchiuk, like others, is large and straggling. It is very 
 ancient, and said by some geographers to have been " Axiopolis." 
 The house we took possession of, as all those we saw, commu- 
 nicated with the street, by a large gateway and wicket, opening 
 to a court, built partly around. The best part was constructed 
 of wood, and covered with red pantiles, with very close lattices. 
 These were the harem or women's chambers, who were in- 
 formed, were overlooking us though they were completely hid 
 from our sight. We were received in a large chiosk, and were 
 served with a dinner in the Turkish manner. We had a wooden 
 spoon given us to eat our pilao, or rice pottage, but no knives and 
 forks. As the fish of the Danube is both excellent and abundant, 
 it made the best part of our repast, but it was brought to us cut 
 into very small pieces, as prepared to be eaten with the fingers. 
 Servants attended with basons and ewers of water to drink or 
 Mash with ; and we were indulged with wine, which was procured 
 from the shop of a Jew in the neighbourhood. As this was the 
 first interview we had with a Turk, and a specimen of the do- 
 mestic habits of those in the middle rank of life, I have men- 
 tioned these minute circumstances. 
 
 May 10th. 
 
 Pezantzi 
 Turlak 
 
 
 BULGARIA. 
 
 )urs. 
 
 Eng. Miles. 
 
 $ 
 
 — 
 
 4 
 
 40 
 
62 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 Having engaged an additional guard of eight men, who under- 
 took to be our guides, through the intricate passes of Mount 
 Haemus, as the more public road was probably infested with 
 banditti, we left Rustchiuk, which from the hill above it gains a 
 still more agreeable appearance from the perfect novelty of its 
 component features. We then passed a plain of little variety or 
 extent to Pezantzi, where we found ourselves at the foot of a 
 vast range of mountains, which in the East are denominated col- 
 lectively by a single appellation of the highest point, Mount 
 Haemus. Both Mount Ida and Mount Olympus are a chain of 
 hills. 
 
 This tract is rendered still more formidable by arduous roads, 
 and armed robbers and insurgents, who seize all they can meet 
 with, as plunder. The close of the evening brought us to Tur- 
 lak, where many female peasants crowded around us, one of 
 whom was presented to us as a bride. She had on a cap or 
 paper crown, with shreds of gold thread tied in bunches, and 
 plated all over with small pieces of coin, strung together like 
 fish-scales. Others had them interlaced with their braids of hair. 
 The Bulgarian ladies have many of gold, which they exhibit in a 
 similar manner ; and it is asserted, that the more rare of the im- 
 perial or ancient Greek coins have been frequently discovered 
 by travellers so applied, and as having been transmitted from the 
 remotest generations. They wear them too, sewn on ribbands 
 appendant to their head-dress, and hanging down to their heels. 
 They cherish as a very favourite ornament, broad clasps of silver 
 gilt, fastened about two thirds round each arm, as bracelets. 
 Concerning the antiquity of these fashions it would be difficult to 
 determine exactly ; but as they are tasteless in themselves, we 
 would give them a dignity by referring them to the most 
 distant period. So religiously are they preserved, that no rank 
 of life is scarcely so mean as to be depiived of them, and it is 
 not uncommon to see even children, naked and hungry, deco- 
 rated with these pieces of money, the value of whieh would 
 clothe and feed them for a yeur. 
 
 May J 1th. 
 
 Rasgat 
 Beshlikuy 
 
 Hours. 
 
 BULGARIA. 
 
 English Miles. 
 25 
 
 The extreme base of Mount Iliemus extended for many miles 
 before the ascent became more precipitate than the usual level 
 of a hilly country. Near Rasgat we remarked the first Turkish 
 cemetry of many acres in extent, thickly shewn with hillocks, 
 most of which were marked with upright pieces of marble 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 63 
 
 carved with turbans and with inscriptions cut in alto relievo. 
 Some were of a ruder form, as probably being architectural 
 fragments and columns, the remains of ancient buildings. 
 
 The reason that these burying-places are so much more exten- 
 sive than those in Christian countries, is, that one grave is appro- 
 priated to each person, a custom which it would be deemed sa- 
 crilege to interrupt. 
 
 By slow advances we arrived at Beshlikuy early in the evening, 
 but were advised not to commence our route through the defiles 
 of Mount Haemus without the day before us. We took up our 
 temporary abode in an open hovel, and reposed at night upon 
 straw, as no Turk in the village would receive us. The necessity, 
 ill that case, of suffering their women to be seen, made them 
 resist money, the greatest of all temptations. 
 
 In this region, which has been frequently the scene of military 
 transactions, we observed, near the road, many small tumuli, 
 which are always thrown up before the ceremony of hoisting the 
 " Sanjafc Scherife," or holy banner, which was then planted on 
 them in the centre of the army. In many instances, these 
 mounds of earth are the simple but most durable monuments of 
 thousands who have fallen in the field. 
 
 May l£th. 
 
 Temkuy 
 Shumblah 
 
 Hours. 
 3 
 4 
 
 BULGARIA. 
 
 English Miles. 
 
 35 
 
 The road led over rising grounds with gradual elevation to- 
 wards the mountains, now partially cultivated in small patches, 
 but universally showing former depopulation, and the hopeless 
 indigence of the present inhabitants. As to the government 
 or political state of this subjugated kingdom, for several ceuturies 
 the scourge and dread of the lower Greek Empire, and of great 
 military fame, it is now that of the worst species of the feudal 
 system. The Pasha or governor has numerous Zaims and Ti- 
 mars, each of which are held by what was once called in Eng- 
 land knight's service, that of bringing so many armed men into 
 the field, whenever summoned by their chief. So frequently 
 does this obligation recur, that the peasants, who are forced like- 
 wise to cultivate the estates of their lord, and to pay him a 
 heavy tribute, have neither leisure nor encouragement to derive 
 more than natural advantages from a most fertile soil and genial 
 climate. 
 
 Before mid-day we halted at Temkuy, and having applied in 
 vain for a reception into some cottage, we assembled under a 
 spreading plane tree, and refreshed ourselves with coffee and 
 
IBBI WBI mi 
 
 04 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 sleeping upon mats. To prevent delay,, for neither threats nor 
 persuasion could hasten the horses, at least their masters, into more 
 than a toot-pace, we dined late in the evening. Our tare was 
 constantly fowls, or lambs, roasted or prepared with rice. These 
 provisions were; collected on the road by our guards, who took 
 them without scruple from the villagers, and then demanded a 
 very exorbitant price for them proportioned to our necessity. 
 Sometimes we were followed by the poor pdlaged people, who 
 vociferated the most opprobious nanus, which we luckily did not 
 understand,but without making the least resistance. — -We entered 
 Shumblah, which is a post, strongly defended both by nature and 
 art, commanding the straits over the mountains. Like all towns 
 in Bulgaria, it consits of miserable cottages, with their great gate 
 and garden, and covers a very large space. It has not even mi- 
 uarehs so tall, as to make it interesting at a distance. Near the 
 close of the last war, Shumblah was considered by the Turks as 
 impregnable, an opinion strengthened by many superstitions, and 
 a confidence that no human power could force these entrench- 
 ments. As it was the retreat of the Turks when they fled, they 
 had assembled there to the number of 40,000 men, who were 
 routed by 1 2,000 Russians, and the multitude put to the sword 
 must shock our humanity, or exceed our belief. 
 
 May 15th. 
 
 BULGARIA. 
 
 Nevsha 
 Pravadi 
 
 Hours. 
 
 s 
 
 3 
 
 Ens;. Miles. 
 
 Before we came Nevsha we were entertained by a dance of 
 Ziugane, or gypsey girls, in a very free style, which they practise 
 to gratify the Turks, who pay them with more liberality, than 
 they usually display. That singular race of people, the inhabi- 
 tants of every country in Europe, have here the same swarthy faces 
 and peculiai language. They are likewise tinker*; play tricks, and 
 tell fortunes ; and there is scarcely a difference between the gyp- 
 sies of Norwood, and those who lurk in the groves at the foot of 
 Mount Haemus. The hills, on either side, had now a lumpish 
 appearance with white scars or shrubs low and even, as if they had 
 been clipped, or like artificial mounds of earth. Now and then 
 they approached nearer to picturesque, when the bared ridge that 
 universally shrouded the summit, showed like a dilapidated castle 
 or city wall. It is a melancholy trait of society and manners, that 
 the shepherd and husbandman do not venture into the field with- 
 out a pistol and dagger at their girdle; — such is the perpetual 
 alarm of these military husbadmen. 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 03 
 
 A broad defile of rocks, abrupt at their basis, and about te« 
 miles in length, led to Pravadi. In the meadows were many 
 buffaloes feeding ; but before we saw them, the whole district, 
 at least within the scope of cur road, seemed to be destitute both 
 of flocks and herds. The town of Pravadi is seated at the base 
 of a lofty precipice, said to have been shaped into regular works 
 by the Genoese, during their possession of the shores of the 
 Black Sea, and is a favourable specimen of a Turkish view, at 
 a point within a mile. We were lodged in an unfurnished house, 
 and experienced all the inconvenience which the dirtiness of the 
 Bulgarians occasions in a peculiar degree. That the plague 
 should originate, or, however that may be, that it should remain 
 with them, can excite no wonder hi one who has passed a night 
 under such roofs. This is perhaps the language of an English 
 traveller, who, accustomed at home to accommodations, the 
 lowest of which are great by comparison, betrays an impatience, 
 which a farther acquaintance with all the possible convenience of 
 travelling in the Turkish empire may correct or reconcile. 
 
 The glaring cliffs are extremely curious on account of their 
 massiveness and height, but they possess nothing for the painter ; 
 a deficiency amply made up to the botanist from the abundance 
 of flowering herbs and mosses. Dr. S. marked them, as having 
 contributed very greatly to the rare collection he was then making, 
 and for which he pursued untrodden paths with industry, not to 
 be subdued by circumstances, generally considered as imprac- 
 ticable. 
 
 Above the heights of Pravadi were many eagles soaring rouud 
 their eyries, where they breed in great numbers. It was the first 
 time that we observed so many of those majestic birds on the 
 wing. 
 
 May 14th 
 
 1th. 
 
 
 
 
 BULGARIA 
 
 
 
 
 Hours. 
 
 Eng. Miles. 
 
 Chonbroolki 
 
 y 
 
 - 
 
 3 
 
 — 
 
 Kasanlik 
 
 
 - 
 
 2 
 
 25 
 
 Leaving Pravadi at day-break, and having passed a woodland 
 tract to Chonbrootkuy, another hut, with many surrounding it, 
 we had not advanced more than twelve miles, from the mulish ob- 
 stinacy of our guards, who reserve the middle of the day for 
 sleep. A village is, at all events, preferable to a town in Bul- 
 garia ; for a street exhibits nothing but desolation and the mu- 
 tual distrust which its inhabitants avow. The women in loose 
 hurtouts of dark green cloth, with kerchiefs of muslin concealing 
 the whole face excepting the nose and eyes, seem to have just 
 escaped from premature intermeut. They peeped through th§ 
 
 ITINERARY.] K 
 
WBwi 
 
 
 
 H\k 
 
 66 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 doors with much curiosity, but fled immediately when observed. 
 Never before having obtained even so imperfect a sight tff TrJrki srJ 
 women, some idea was given of the degraded state of female 
 1 ife among them, particularly in the lower ranks of society. 
 
 Sepulchral tumuli, which were many yards high, and regu- 
 larly smooth with turf to their summits, are often seen, and mark 
 the slaughter in those conflicts for dominion, which this wretched 
 country has experienced for several centuries. When the Turks 
 were extending their dominion in Europe, these mounds were 
 thrown up to mark the progress of their victories. 
 
 May 15. Hulgarja. 
 
 Hours. Eng. Miles. 
 Balkan *• - 4 — 
 
 Aitcs - 1 fiQ 
 
 KOMELIA. 
 
 vYe began to ascend one of the extremities of the Balkan, as all 
 high mountains are called in Turkey. This is likewise known 
 by the name of Heminy-dagb, an evident corruption of Mount 
 Hasmus. * 
 
 Although the roads over Mount H annus are sufficiently im- 
 practicable, they are rendered more terrible, as they are the re- 
 treat of banditti, a danger certainly great ; but which it is the 
 policy of the guards and peasants to enhance, and they demand a 
 gratuity in proportion as they report it to have been. We for- 
 tunately escaped. Mount H annus is indeed the site of all those 
 beauties in landscape which the poets have described as peculiar 
 to it, and realizes their happiest imagery. Deep glens, impe- 
 netrable shades of gigantic chesnuts, shrubs aromatic, and pro- 
 ducing the gayest flowers, and rivulets in rich succession, account 
 for the preference paid to these scenes by Virgil, on the report 
 of the ancients, for we do not know, that he ever visited them 
 in person. 
 
 O qui me gelidls in vaiiibus Haemi 
 
 Sistat ! cr ingenti ramorimo protegat umbra ! — 
 
 GtOKcic. I. 2, 4fiH. 
 
 The forests in Walachia and Bulgaria abound in manv kinds of 
 fruit-trees, particularly cherries, apricots, vines, &,c. For 
 many of the flowers we Mere too early in the year, but they 
 are found as numerous and exquisite, as in the most cultivated 
 gardens in a less genial soil. .Art strives in vain to equal nature^ 
 and the richest garden must yield to the mountain recesses, 
 which we had then under our contemplation, aud which, as to- 
 tally uninhabited, are lost to mankind. 
 
 At the opposite base of Mount Ila-mus, we entered Rome- 
 ia,and followed a winding glen, occasionally a torrent bed, but 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 67 
 
 now of a small stream, with huge stones, which had been pre- 
 cipitated from the summit. The skreens on either side, were 
 inconceivably lofty, with broad masses of rock impending so- 
 far, that immediate falling might be apprehended. The trees 
 were generally, the dwarf oak, with jessamine, wild roses, and 
 spring flowers, in the greatest perfection and plenty. Our route 
 was taken purposely to avoid ascending Mount H annus, and 
 lay entirely between two of the least considerable heights, so 
 that our elevation was not greater than we had before experienced 
 in Transylvania, and the whole distance not exceeding above 
 sixteen miles. 
 
 At Kasanlik we were met by peasant women, who congra- 
 tulated us on escaping the perils of Mount Hamius and begged 
 money, and a few miles farther we rested with the usual accom- 
 modations at Dobrab. 
 
 May 16. 
 Ai'tos 
 
 ROMELIA. 
 
 Hours. 
 4 
 
 Eag. Miles. 
 " £5 
 
 Over an uninteresting country of covert lanes or waving heath, 
 without the intervention of a single village, we came to Ai'tos, 
 a considerable place in point of extent. We were conducted 
 to the Khan, or general receptacle of all strangers and their 
 horses. A very large open room like a barn receives the latter, 
 and, most commonly, their masters were indulged with a loft 
 spread with matting, extremely dirty, and with heaps of dust 
 swept into the corners of the room. The actual inconvenience 
 was not a little increased by the dread of catching the plague, 
 and the constant succession of the tenants of this wretched man- 
 sion rendered escape the less to be relied on. We procured 
 some dried rushes and hay, on which we reposed, having been all 
 alike strangers to a bed or even a carpet since we left Bucharest, 
 as I was at that time, as well as Dr. S. martyrised with a 
 bdious fever, produced by the malaria which affects most of 
 the inhabitants at the approach of summer. 
 
 17. 
 
 
 
 TtOMELIA 
 
 
 
 Hours. 
 
 Eng. Miles. 
 
 Faki 
 
 - 
 
 4 
 
 — 
 
 Kirkecclissa 
 
 - 
 
 - 4 
 
 35 
 
 At Kirkecclissa we were distant ten miles only from the 
 Kuxine or Black Sea, our view of which was excluded by a 
 high mountain. 
 
 We encountered no new feature of landscape till we reached 
 
 k2 
 
68 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 a scene of singular appearance. It was a plain, sonre miles 
 across, almost covered with huge fragments of rock, sometimes 
 singly and as often romantically piled in groupes, and intermixed 
 with thickets and shrubs, whilst those upon the summits of the 
 surrounding hills were more massive, and gave under the glow 
 of the setting sun the effect of continued fortresses and towers. 
 They had the same appearance in the distance. Many of these 
 huge stones and detached rocks on the plain, are so disposed a9 
 to represent Druidical temples, and many are so large as to equal 
 Stonehenge in size and extent. 
 
 Habit or the fear of banditti prevented our guards from 
 attending us after sun-set, so that, though we were at Kirkec- 
 clissa at five o'clock in the afternoon, they would not advance 
 a step farther. The forty Greek churches which gave name to 
 this town, have long since disappeared. Perhaps, there were 
 never near that number, as the Turks use the word " forty" 
 when they mean many. Those that remained undemolished, 
 are converted into mosques. The inhabitants are principally 
 Polish Jews, who from the rich pastures in the neighbourhood, 
 which they rent of the Pacha, send great quantities of cheese 
 and butter to the markets of Constantinople. 
 
 Mr 
 
 IS. 
 
 Hours. 
 
 11 M E LI A 
 
 Eng. Miles. 
 
 Burgaz 
 
 TchiorJi 
 
 Koumbiugaz 
 
 3 
 
 o 
 
 1 
 
 30 
 
 From Kirkecclissa to Burgaz (Arcadiopolis or Pyrgos,) we 
 passed through the same desolate country, without houses, cul- 
 tivation, or water. .The soil indeed is blessed with spontaneous 
 fertility, producing plants and shrubs of the greatest beauty. 
 Roses grow in such abundance, that the otto, which requires the 
 greatest quantity, is extracted from them by the merchants of 
 .Adrianople, and forms an article of a very valuable traffic. 
 Agriculture and even vineyards are universally neglected. It was 
 curious to see twelve or fourteen oxen harnessed by their horns, 
 apd three or four men with a single plough of the most incon- 
 venient construction, and one is tempted to believe, that the art 
 of tillage is almost unknown. Near Burgaz is found a deep red- 
 coloured clay, resembling that used for the Etruscan ware, of 
 which porcelaine is now made; which is principally used for the 
 heads of long Turkish pipes, and richly guilt. 13asons for drink- 
 ing sherbet were offered us for sale ; wrought in rich patterns 
 in a kind of mosaic, as figures are forbidden by the Mohammedan 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 60 
 
 law. From Burgaz to Tcliiorli crossing the Erigene (Agrianes), 
 a small river, there is little variety, for no description of landscape 
 can be more monotonous than the Turkish, in its artificial features. 
 Upon our right we caught a first sight of the Sea of Marmora, 
 with the immense rock of white marble, which gave name to 
 the island. After having passed so many days in forests or desert 
 plains, the pleasing variety and repose of a sea prospect can be 
 well imagined. The chain of Mount Haemus rose in the ex- 
 treme distance behind us with great elevation. Tchiorli (the 
 ancient Turulose) was taken by Orchan 1360, from the Empe- 
 ror John Paleologus, and rased to the ground. At Koumbur- 
 gas, we passed the night in the Khan, which is very large and 
 ruinous. All the roads which lead to the metropolis of the 
 Ottoman empire are as much neglected and as impracticable, 
 as the worst village highway in England. 
 
 May 19. 
 
 Bardos 
 Selivrea 
 
 Hours. 
 
 ROMELIA. 
 
 Ens. Miles. 
 
 25 
 
 A few miles beyond Koumburgas, we halted to inspect the 
 " Makroteike," or famous long wall built by the Emperor 
 Anastasius, at the close of the nfth century, to protect his capital 
 and its luxuriant environs from the predatory incursions of the 
 Goths and Bulgarians. It extended from Selymbria on the 
 shores of Marmora to the Euxine sea, about sixty English miles. 
 It was a magnificent work conducted by Eterius, the minister 
 of that Emperor, and his architect. The wall was single with 
 a deep vallation and very frequent tower?, consisting of three 
 sides of a square facing the enemy's country. At present 
 though the line of fortification is perfect, few of the towers are 
 seen above the high mound made by their ruins. We rejoiced 
 that our road commanded the view of Marmora without inter- 
 ruption for many miles, which happily relieved the tiresome 
 sameness of our former journey. 
 
 Nothing could exceed the richness and beauty of our first 
 view of the ancient city of Selymbria, corrupted by the Turks 
 to Selivrea. The town lies at the foot of the great palace or 
 castle, which has the boldest situation, being engrafted on a 
 jutting point of rock which overhangs the sea. In itself it is 
 a very majestic ruin, but its grand accompaniment is the con- 
 nection with the long wall, already mentioned, as the fortifi- 
 cation round the old city has a simple wall, and the towers are 
 more numerous and massive, and have suffered less dilapidation. 
 They are embattled upon deep brackets, like those of Constan- 
 
t&WW 
 
 ■ MBBBBBBBM 
 
 70 AN ITINERARY FROM 
 
 tinoplc, with which they arc contemporary, and were the proto- 
 type oi a mode of building castles introduced by ihe croisaders 
 into Tiauce and England, and perhaps into Italy. Selymbria 
 was the palace and principality of John Paleologus, after he had 
 been deprived of the By/antine throne, and was besieged and 
 taken by Mohammed II. before his liual conquest of Constan- 
 tinople. 
 
 May 20. 
 
 ROMKLIA. 
 
 Hours. 1.: '.-. Miles. 
 
 Bujuck - 3 — 
 
 Couchout Checmedgeh — 
 
 Elyub ft - " ~' 3 
 
 Constantinople — — 
 
 ,e Selymbria?, tenuit nos jucundus placidi maris aspectus, ju- 
 vitque alludentibus undis in littore conchas legere, el delphino- 
 ram spectare choros, ccelique iliius tepore frui. Namque dici 
 non potest, quae fuit illi temperies, quam mite clemensque cce- 
 ium." This journey was taken in 1586. 
 
 Still within a mile or two of the shores of Marmora, we were 
 delighted with the singular amenity of the scene, and the softness 
 of the sea air, which rendered the meridian heat by no means 
 oppressive. Since our departure from Vienna, we had been 
 favoured in respect to weather, and were never delayed upon that 
 account ; and what may be considered as more fortunate, as 
 being more uncommon, we travelled over the rugged and devious 
 roads without sustaining accident or injury. The ambassador 
 Busbequius, in his entertaining and accurate Letters concerning 
 Turkey, speaks of these prospects as most interesting, and we 
 found them equalling the extent of his praise. 
 
 Traversing this delicious coast a little farther, we passed 
 through a large Turkish village called Buyock Checkmedgeh, 
 ((neat Drawbridge) situated at the head of a beautiful lake, fall- 
 ing into the sea through an inlet over which is a long causeway 
 and bridge, built by Selim II. in 1568. This road soon brought 
 us to Conchuck Checkmedgeh (Pontepiccolo) where we rested 
 at mid-day to enjoy the shade, and to prepare ourselves for our 
 entrance into Constantinople. A more interesting village I had 
 not seen in point of situation and its accompaniments, with a 
 perfect novelty of features, as it stands enveloped in the shade 
 of plane trees and cypresses of most extraordinary bulk. Our 
 attention Mas soon attracted to the widely spreading plane tree 
 in the middle of the road, under which several mats were 
 spread and occupied by Turks, who were smoaking, and seemed 
 lost in the enjoyment of such serenity. Adjoining was an open 
 
LONDON TO CONSTANTINOPLE. 
 
 71 
 
 Wooden building, in an airy Chinese style, painted with many 
 colours, where others were preparing and serving coffee with 
 great assiduity. We willingly availed ourselves of this grateful 
 repast. In one corner sat a musician, who recited and sang 
 Turkish verses in a very loud and inharmonious tone, to the 
 tinkling of a tambour or mandoline with a long neck and four 
 strings, which he struck with a quill. Love was the burden of 
 his song, as of all others in Turkey, but his expressions of 
 tenderness were ridiculous, conveyed in such a tone and with 
 such gesticulation ! The houses wore a much better appearance, 
 and were usually inclosed in gardens abounding in trees, which 
 are merely exotic shrubs in our climate, and with cedars very 
 unlike their meagre representatives in England. The Turks are 
 really to be envied their luxury of reposing whole days under 
 such a grand leafy canopy, to skreen them from the intense rays 
 of the sun. 
 
 Within a few miles of Constantinople, we entered a thick 
 grove of cypress in every stage of vegetation, and many of stu- 
 pendous size. These form the great cemetries which lead to 
 the gates of the city, and occupy many acres in the centre of a 
 dreary waste. The Campagna itself is not more desolate than 
 the European environs of the sister capital of the Roman world. 
 
 The effect of these cemetries is sombre and appropriate. 
 Emerging from their shades, we came to the " Chiftlik," or 
 country seat of the Y'izier Daut Pacha. It is a quadrangular 
 building with open galleries, and in one of the angles is a 
 mosque, with a cupola of very elegant construction. JBut the 
 whole was in a state of decay, as if it had no owner. As it is 
 situated on an eminence, it presented to us Constantinople in 
 all her magnificence. The towers of the temple wall, which 
 extends nearly four miles from the harbour to the sea, rose in 
 front, and were beautifully contrasted by the hundred cupolas 
 and tall minarehs skirting the horizon, and proudly issuing from the 
 sea. After descending a hill, we found ourselves in the narrow and 
 dismal streets of Elyub, intermixed with sepulchral stones. We 
 then crossed the head of the canal over a rivulet, called the 
 " Sweet Waters." The canal was nearly covered with boats of 
 a very fanciful construction and richly gilt, and exhibited a 
 brilliant spectacle, as the Sultan was at that instant returning 
 from his Chiosk, or banqueting-house, at Chiatkanah. This 
 most enchanting scene was laid out, about a century ago, by a 
 French Ambassador, to give the Turks an idea of European gar- 
 dening. It is Fontainbleau or any of the other royal gardens :rx 
 miniature, excepting statues, which the Turkish scruples would 
 not allow. 
 
w 
 
 AN ITINERARY FROM LONDON, &C. 
 
 Ascending the opposite hill to the Campo de Mortc, we en- 
 tered the suburb of Pera, and arrived at the English Palace at 
 the close of day, where we were received by Sir Robert Ainslie 
 with great hospitality and politeness. 
 
 Total extent of the Journey. 
 
 From London to Vienna 
 From Vienna to Bucharest 
 From Bucharest to Pera 
 
 Miles. 
 795 
 670 
 385 
 
 Total 1850