C. HEP WORTH I Amateur Photographer Library — Advertisements. THE LEADING Hand Camera Experts OF THE WORLD. No Instruments are SO PERFECT SO RELIABLE SO SIMPLE and such Full Value for Money, as those of Messrs. ADAMS & CO. YALE. ADAMS DE LUXE. FULL AND ELABORATE HAND CAMERA BOOKLETS OF ALL LATEST INSTRUMENTS. Post free, Is. ETC. ETC. ETC. ADAMS SCO. 26, Charing Cross Rd LONDON, W.C. TELEPHONE ; 5387 Gerrard . Amateur Photographer Library— Advertisements. H BENETFINK & Co. The Great City Depot for LANCASTER'S, UNDERWOOD S, LIZARS', AND THORNTON-PICKARD CAMERAS & SHUTTERS. Specimen print post jfree. Specimen print post jfree. No. 1 "LIGHTNING" HAND CAMERA. 1899 Model. To carry Twelve j-plates. Automatic Changing as shown in Illustration. Fitted with good quality single Achromatic Lens, Time and Instantaneous Shutter, etc. £2 2s. net. The A1 "LIGHTNING" HAND CAMERA. 1899 Mode! (as Illustration). To carry Twelve J-plates. Automatic Changing as shown in Illustration. Fitted with Rapid Rectilinear Lens, two View Finders, etc., etc. £3 8s. 6d. net. GREAT CITY DEPOT FOR ILFORD & all celebrated makers' PLATES & P.O.P. AT LOWEST CASH PRICES. CATALOGUES Post Free. 89, 90, 107 & 108, Cheapside, London Amateur Photographer Library — Advertisements, JSritisb journal of pbotograpbv : This is a No. 3 pattern. The iront part is extended to show how the Camera can be focused lor very close objects. A very fully illustrated and descriptive Catalogue, going thoroughly] into all details oj working and mechanism, may be had post free for four stamps. THE TELLA CAMERA CO., Ltd., 110, Shaftesbury Avenue, LONDON, W. x*ibioi(r ^ o ^ Photographic Chemicals 'Tabloid' Developers. Pyro., Pyro. Soda fllford formula Metol, Hydroquinone, Amidol, Eikonogen, or Paramidophenot. Completers, per case. 'Tabloid' Toning Baths. Gold Chloride with Sodium Phosphate Sodium Tung state, Sodium Bicarbonate, Borax, or Sodium Formate Compouna Platinum Compound. Completers, per case •Tabloid' Potassium Bromide, Ammonium Bromide, 'Hypo.', etc. 6d. per case. Pamphlet with full working directions } gratis. (copyright/ ^pJRE pure chemicals of the finest quality compressed into accurate quantities. For use they are simply dissolved in given quanti- ties of water. No weighing is necessary, and fresh, active solutions are almost instantly available. Tabloid' Chemicals keep perfectly and can be carried easily when travelling. They are easier to use and more certain than stock solutions. The Editor of Photographic News says : — " Cleanliness, precision and activity are best secured by employing Tabloid' Developers Their use gives clear, brilliant and uniform results." Sold by all Chemists and Photographic Dealers. Manufactured only by Burroughs Wellcome & Co., LONDON and SYDNEY. Snow Hill Buildings, LONDON. 108, Pitt St., SYDNEY, N.S. W- v Amateur Photographer Library — Advertisements. COLOR PHOTOGRAPHY FOR ALL. New and Simplified Process. (BARNARD Atfl> GWENLOCK'S PATENTS,) KROMftZ. LOW PRICE A THE simplicity of this Process, and the small cost of the necessary Apparatus, combined with the beautiful results to be obtained, should make it essential to every Photographer. The Apparatus required consists of A> frame containing the set of colour screens through which exposures are made ; B, the attachment which fits into the back of Camera, and carries the colour screens and dark slide when making exposures ; Ci the chromo stereoscope, in which pictures are viewed to obtain the colour effects. The Process can be worked on either ^-plate or ^-plate Cameras, in which the focus- ing adjustment is done from the front. In the smaller size 4 exposures are necessary ; in the larger size only two exposures are required. The whole of the exposures are made upon a J-plate, either one at a time or in pairs. The pairs of images may be made with a pair of Lenses, or with one Lens, in conjunction with the Kromaz Mirrors. The method of procedure is to take 2 pairs of images, — 1 pair through red and blue screens, and 1 pair through green screens. From the 2 stereoscopic negatives, positives are made, which when viewed in the Chromo Stereoscope reveal the natural colours of the objects photographed with absolute fidelity. Full instructions are given with each set. PRICE LIST. Kromaz RepeatingiHolder or Multiple Back, with set of Colour Screens for £ s. d. taking purposes 2 2 0 Half-plate Dark Slide fitted to the above 100 Kromaz Stereoscope for viewing Objects in their natural colours . . . . 3 10 0 Set of Mirrors, enabling two stereoscopic images to be taken on a plate, using only one Lens . . 0 12 0 Cabinet to contain Kromaz and twelve sets of views 0 10 6 Kromaz views 036 The above prices are net for Cash. May be obtained of all Dealers in Photographic Apparatus, or of W. WATSON & SONS, 313, HIGH HOLBORN, LONDON; and 16, FORREST ROAD, EDINBURGH. Amateur Photographer Library— Advertisements. the and were at that moment being tried for their offences. The sympathetic policeman is telling the women what the punishment is likely to be. I call this picture " Waiting for the Verdict," and although it is not so artistic as Solomon's well-known work with the same title, it is reality, and not romance. I have so many photographs now, thanks to this detec- tive camera, that I hardly know how to select from them those that you will think interesting. Here is one (B 13 ) taken in Leicester Square. In the centre is a statue of Shakspeare, with three workmen carefully washing him. It seems that this is necessary, because some American has been throwing a great deal of dirt at him lately; at least, so says my informant, Uncle James. And now I must say good-bye, for this letter is getting dreadfully long. I have much to tell you upon the important subject of dress, but must reserve my important information, gleaned in that world of delights called Regent Street, until we meet. In the meantime my last little picture will tell you that what uncle calls " those ridicu ous monstrosities" (B 14 )are still worn, although it is 42 EVENING WORK FOR (10.) believed that they will pre- sently be out of fashion. "With best love, Your affectionate cousin, Julia. P.S —The building on the right of Shakspeare's statue is the Alhambra, and is quite an architectural feature of London, and is a model of the Spanish Alhambra. Lots of people go there, but when I have asked uncle to take me there, he always makes some excuse. In perusing this little sketch of a lantern enter- tainment the reader will notice that the text is fre- quently interrupted by the insertion of a big B. This is meant to indicate the point where the reciter must touch his gong or other signal, so that the operator at the lantern may change to the next picture. The signal should in every case be given a few seconds be- (ii.) AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS. 43 02.) fore the picture is actually required, so as to allow time for the necessary manipulations. Another point which cannot be too urgently in- sisted upon is the necessity for the reader to thorough- ly know his subject be- forehand, and to be ac- quainted with the pic- tures which illustrate it. He should, in fact, care- fully study the text, while at the same time he examines each picture as it comes in order, so as to find out all its points, some possibly which have been overlooked before. In this way alone can he make his remarks effective and interesting to his audience. Eloquence is a natural gift which no amount of study can command ; but a study of elocution is both advantageous and desirable; and this study can be had for nothing, by taking every opportunity of hearing good public speaking. 44 EVENING WORK. r Unfortunately, the oppor- tunities of this kind are few and far between, for good speakers are rare. About fifteen years ago I heard the lessons read in church with such marvel- lous effect by an accom- plished speaker, that I have never forgotten the particular chapters read upon that evening. Once again, lately, I had a similar experience. But only upon these two occasions during my experience as a pretty frequent church-goer have I heard the lessons thus beautified. I do not believe in learning elocution from books, although there are many volumes written upon the subject. One which I recently looked over — I had not the patience to read it through — was the veriest balder- dash. The writer worked upon the system of selecting some well-known poem, and then giving directions for its recita- tion, especially pointing out where the accents should be laid. Now, anyone who is not deaf and dumb, knows where the accent should fall, and there is no need to tell him. For in reading, these accents come in as naturally as they do in music ; and in both, contrast can often be enforced by a syncopation. But the ingenious writer referred to ignored all this, and dissected his examples with the most ludicrous effect. CHAPTER VI. LANTERN TRANSPARENCIES IN STAINED ALBUMEN. FRENCH manual was published some time ago which dealt with quite a new application of photography in the production of proofs which owe their density to the application of one of the aniline dyes This manual is by M. Geymet, and he not only describes the application of the process to photographs on paper, but also to transparencies on glass. This last application of it we are at present alone con- cerned with. The method depends in the first place upon the same chemical phenomena as some other processes, among which we may mention the carbon method, and the Wood- burytype ; that is to say, it takes advantage of the action of those salts which are known as the bichromates of the alkalies, of which the bichromate of potash is a well-known example. Admixture of one of these salts with any colloid sub- stance such as gum, gelatine, etc., will cause that substance to become quite insoluble after insolation or exposure to light. It is a developing process, but the development is in its 46 EVENING WORK FOR nature more mechanical than chemical. Albumen is the colloid substance employed, and it plays the principal part in the process. The order of operations necessary in producing lantern pictures by this method is briefly as follows. Thin clear glass of any convenient size — for it can be cut down to the standard lantern size subsequently — is covered with a coating of chromated albumen, that is to say, albumen which has been impregnated with one of the salts already mentioned. It is then dried and exposed to diffused light beneath the negative in the ordinary printing frame ; after which the plate is simply developed in fresh water, when those parts not affected by light dissolve away, leaving the other insoluble portions on the surface of the glass to form the picture. The proof so obtained is now treated with any suitable aniline dye, which has been dissolved in alcohol ; it is then rinsed with water to remove the surplus colour, and the picture is finished. I will now describe the process in greater detail, and I may say at once that it requires much care in order to ensure success. The preparation of the sensitive mixture is the first thing, and to compound it the following three solutions must be made up : A. Gum-arabic, pure (pulv.) Distilled water In another vessel mix : 100 c.c. 5 grammes. B. White of egg Distilled water 100 c.c. 25 grammes. AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS. 47 0. Ammonia bichromate . . . . 2 '50 grammes. Potash bichromate . . . . 2 50 „ Distilled water . . . . . . 50 c.c. A and B are now mixed together in a basin and beaten up with a fork. Or a more effectual method is to place the mix- ture in a bottle together with a number of fragments of glass. After corking up the bottle, give it a vigorous shaking for two or three minutes until the albumen mix- ture is thoroughly frothed up. At the commencement of this shaking operation add a quarter of the sensitising liquid C, and gradually add the remainder, giving a vigorous shake between each addition until the whole has been so added. The operation must not be hurried, and should be carried out the night before the compound is required for use. After an hour or two, when it has subsided, repeat the shaking or beating into a froth as before, and then let the mixture rest until the following day. The next opera- tion is to strain the liquid through paper niters three times, after which treatment the milky-looking fluid should have become as transparent as water. If the best results are wanted, the mixture should be used fresh, and certainly not after two or three days, for after that time it gets insensi- tive, and must have more of the bichromates added to it in order to make it serviceable. But even with this precau- tion, it would not possess the qualities of a freshly prepared mixture. It will therefore be as well to prepare only as much as can be used up at once. The next operation is to coat the plates with this chromated albumen, and I may observe here that the addition of the 48 EVENING WORK FOR gum to the albumen makes the coating porous, so that the aniline colour which is afterwards applied to it will penetrate it to some depth. It will be found that the mix- ture, in spite of its thickness, will flow well over the glass plates — not so readily, certainly, as collodion will, but if the glass be first of all thoroughly washed, and if, moreover, we take the precaution, as in coating gelatine plates, to rub over it as a final operation a little alcohol on a piece of wash-leather, we shall find that the sensitive mixture will traverse the surface without much difficulty. If with all these precautions, the glass should seem to be repellent of the liquid, a piece of card or a glass rod will help in the coating operation. Before attempting to coat, the greatest precautions should be taken against the access of dust, for, as in coating gelatine plates, dust is the great thing to dread. It will there- fore be as well some time before conducting this part of the work to sprinkle the dark-room floor and its table with water, and the inventor of this process recommends the further precaution of allowing the steam from a vessel of boiling water to moisten the air, and to coax down the floating dust. Just before coating, the glasses should be brushed over with a badger- hair brush to remove any little particles of dust which may have settled upon them. The mixture is poured on the glass, whilst the plate is supported in a horizontal position, on a previously levelled surface, and the surplus from each, as in the case of similar coating operations, should be poured into another vessel, in which stands a glass funnel furnished with a filter paper. The time occupied in coating a number of glasses, if they 1MATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS 49 be placed side by side on a levelled slab, will only amount to a few minutes. They have next to be dried, but in this dry- ing, heat from any source whatever must be avoided, for we must remember that in albumen we have to deal with a very different substance to gelatine. Gelatine will dry if a moderate amount of heat be applied to it 5 but if it be attempted to dry by heat a plate treated with albumen, the albumen will coagulate, and the plate will be spoilt. We must therefore depend solely upon ventilation for dry- ing ; but as slow drying would be likely, for other reasons, to lead to failure, it is as well to fan the plates as they lie on a level slab, using a piece of cardboard for the purpose. If in spite of all care in c Dating, dust and air bubbles make themselves disagreeably apparent while the plate is yet wet, the best way of getting rid of such intruders is to blow them by means of a tube towards the edge of the glass, and then remove them with the finger or with a piece of card. The operation of coating, and the general preparation of the sensitive liquid, may be carried out in a bright yellow light, for the plates, like all photographic preparations in which the bichromates are employed, are very insensitive whilst wet, but when dry are in a far more sensitive condition, although still many hundred times less sensitive than the bromide plates with which the photographer has generally to deal. The plates thus pre- pared and dried may be put away in a grooved box, and will keep for a day, provided that no white light reaches them, and that the atmosphere in which they are kept is free from gaseous or other fumes. In this respect the plates are subject to the same influences as sensitised carbon tissue. s 50 EVENING WORK FOR We now come to the exposure of these plates. It will be as well, before placing one of them beneath a negative in the printing frame, to test it w T ith the finger, in order to see that it is perfectly dry, and if there be any suspicion of dampness, it is a good precaution to rub the plate with a little French chalk, applied with the tip of the finger. The glass may then be placed beneath a negative in a printing frame, and exposed to diffused light. If the negative be very dense or discoloured, direct sunlight may be allowed to shine upon the printing frame ; and the time in that case will be four or five seconds in summer, and about double that time in winter. But with a good negative which is normal in colour and clear in the shadows, we shall do very much better by exposing to diffused light, that is to say, such light as we get reflected from the sky on the shady side of a house. In this case the exposure will be prolonged on a bright day to four or five minutes, whilst on a dull day the time required may be from fifteen to twenty-five minutes. But, of course, as in most photographic operations, this question of exposure, upon which so much of the success depends, is very much a matter of experience. It is certain, however, that if the plates be not freshly prepared — for instance, about two or three days old — the exposure must be very much prolonged, and after all, as we have already intimated, old albumen, or old plates, are most uncertain in the results which they will afford. After exposure we may immediately proceed to develop- ment, which, as I have already stated, is more mechanical in its nature than chemical. The plate is removed from the printing frame, and under yellow light is placed in a deep AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS. 51 and large bowl or basin f ull of clean water. In about two or three minutes the soluble part, that is the part of the albumen film which has been protected by the dark parts of the negative, will dissolve. The operation is automatic, and follows a regular course, and in order to insure this regu- larity, it will be as well, during the next two or three minutes, to change the water at least twice, taking good care that no force of water is applied to the surface of the plate, for the image, which is gradually forming, is, as yet, of a very tender character. We cannot, as in ordinary develop- ment, watch the progress of the work, although we may be able to see that a change is gradually occurring on the surface, by inclining the bowl at an angle so as to view the glass by reflected light. But presently, on the application of the aniline dye, it will speedily be seen whether the fore- going operations have been carried out as they should have been. If the glass is allowed to dry thoroughly after exposure, it will be found that the colour will hardly penetrate it at all, and the picture will have but little density ; there- fore the colouring operation should take place whilst the film is yet moist, and it is actually ready for treatment directly it leaves the bowl of water, but it should be allowed to drain for a few seconds, so that the surplus water may be carried off. The dye may then be applied to it, by pouring it over the film whilst the glass is held by one corner, after which the plate must be kept horizontal for about half a minute or so, in order to give time for the dye to penetrate into the albumen coating. After this, the surplus dye' may be drained away, and the plate may be washed. This ; 1 52 EVENING WORK FOR washing can take place in another bowl of water, and in order to make it thorough, the hand may be employed to gently lave the surface of the plate. The colour acts upon the albumen, mechanically, and hardens it, so that after this application the film will bear far rougher treatment than before. If the image seems to be at all veiled, this veiling, or surface fog, will very quickly give way to con- tinued washing ; and the best plan to pursue is to place the glass, film side up, in a dish of water, so that at least half an inch of the liquid covers it, and then to turn a stream of water from a rose upon it. This will generally clear the image, but the action must not be carried too far, or loss of density will ensue. After this last washing, the film must be dried spon- taneously, and then it only remains to varnish it to com- plete the lantern picture. But a little care is necessary in this concluding operation. The varnish must not be the ordinary spirit varnish, which is commonly used in photo- graphy for the protection of gelatine films ; for the spirit i/i such a varnish would react upon the colour, and would cause it to spread over the clear parts of the picture, and utterly ruin the effect. The varnish should be one in which some other solvent than spirit has been employed. Such var- nishes are so easily procurable that I need not further dwell upon this part of the subject. The dyes employed may be almost any of the aniline family, but whichever be chosen it must be dissolved in alcohol, so as to form a saturated solution, that is to say, the t alcohol must be caused to take up as much as it will. The best way to gain this end is to put the AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS. powdered dye in a small phial, pour the alcohol upon it, and shake it up at frequent intervals ; if the whole of the dye is taken up by the solvent, add more of the powder, until a residue which refuses to dissolve is found to remain at the bottom of the bottle. Before use, the solution of colour so prepared should be filtered through porous paper. There are a great many subjects for which this process will be found of use. A blue dye may be chosen for pictures, which may be thus made to represent moonlight effects ; in like manner, an orange dye can be used for photographs having good cloud effects, so as to give the idea of sunset. But the process will be particularly valuable in the prepa- ration of astronomical slides, either from natural photo graphs or from prepared designs. In a negative, for instance, which has been taken by means of a telescope, and which consists of a portion of one of the constellations, the various stars will be described as little black points of light. Such a negative, if printed by means of one of these albumen plates, and afterwards dyed with a suitable blue, will give the effect of the natural firmament, while the stars themselves will be represented by absolutely clear glass. We might say the same of the photograph of a nebula, of a comet, or even of a flash of lightning. There are many other ways in which the process will be found very valuable in the production of lantern transparencies. CHAPTER VII. LANTERN SLIDES BY REDUCTION FROM LARGER NEGATIVES — CONDENSERS — WATER LENSES, ETC. MOST convenient apparatus for reducing pictures to lantern size from larger nega- tives was recently brought out by Messrs. Marion, and is shown at fig. 19, and as it has the merit of cheapness as well as simpli- city, it is likely to come into extensive use. It consists of a box containing a central partition, to which is fixed a lens. At one end of the box — that marked 1ST in my diagram — is a recess, in which is held the negative to be copied, whilst at the other end (P) is a rebate in which is held the lantern plate. The lens is so fixed that the negative and lantern plate will be in the right position with regard to each other and with regard to the focus of the lens, so that all the operator has to do is to put them in their places and adjust the cap (C) over the plate, while he carries the apparatus bodily towards a window, or some source of artificial light, as the case may be. It must be acknowledged that without some such apparatus as this the business of reducing a negative is a troublesome one, for it is an out-of-the-way operation. But with this contrivance it involves no more trouble than EVENING WORK. 55 putting a negative and plate in a frame for printing by contact. The outer grooves shown at the negative end of the box are for the insertion of a piece of ground glass, in order to diffuse the light when a lamp is used as the luminant. This instrument is at present made in three sizes half -plate, whole-plate, and 12 by 10 — the latter having carriers, so that it can be used for any smaller sized nega- tive. All these are so arranged that they reduce the image to lantern size. But I think that the makers would do well bo issue a similar apparatus of quarter-plate size. I have Fig. 19. had such a piece of apparatus, differing only in details, for my own use for a long time, and I have found it in many ways a valuable help in lantern-slide making. The lens is fixed, and the length of the box on either side is just double its focal length. This arrangement permits one to re- produce a picture the exact size of the negative employed. It was doubtless felt by the makers of the apparatus figured that there was no necessity for issuing one of quarter-plate size, because it is almost universally the custom to print slides from such small negatives by contact in a printing frame. This is true, but where I find the arrangement so useful is when I want to produce a slide by 56 EVENING WORK FOR the wet process — when actual contact is out of the question — and one must separate the wet plate from the negative by strips of thin card. This is always a risky operation, for the nitrate of silver may, in spite of all care, get to the surface of the negative and ruin it. Again, I find the instrument valuable in working the collodio-bromide pro- cess, where, although the film is dry, it is so extremely tender that abrasion often occurs in bringing it into contact with the negative. It may be affirmed without question, that a slide is some- what sharper if taken by a lens, rather than by contact, but the difference can only be detected by very careful examination. When I have a lantern slide to make of a diagram which consists of very fine lines, I prefer to take it by means of a lens, so that I may obtain the greatest possible sharpness ; but for ordinary work, contact gives sufficient exactitude. I have before me, as I write, for instance, a lantern slide which has been printed by the contact method. The subject is a couple of ships alongside a quay, and the picture takes in the whole of the rigging of the two vessels. Among the network of ropes are some which appear on the glass to be as fine as a spider's web, and it would be thought that no method of printing could confer upon them greater accuracy and sharpness. But to secure this result certain precautions are necessary. The glass must be flat, and the light during exposure must not be allowed to act laterally. A contact-printed slide should therefore be held in its printing frame some feet away from the source of light ; and even during exposure to diffused daylight the careful operator will, by preference, expose the AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS. 57 frame at some distance from, and presented towards a window, employing what, for all practical purposes, are parallel rays. Another valuable contrivance for reducing pictures to lantern size has been produced by Messrs. Shew, and this has an advantage in forming an attachment to any de- scription of camera. For this purpose the ordinary front of the camera is removed from its grooves, and the attachment put in its place, as seen in fig. 20. This apparatus consists in reality of an extra camera, formed of two boxes, one sliding within the other, as a help to focussing. The outer end of this box has a groove to hold the sensitive plate in an ordinary dark-slide, while the negative to be copied is held at the back end of the large camera. A tilting board, which can be screwed to any tripod stand, allows the com- plete apparatus to be turned skyward during exposure. Fig. 20. 58 EVENING WORK FOE There are two grooves at the larger end of the apparatus, one to hold the large negative, and the outer one for a sheet of ground glass to diffuse the light. It is worthy of note that this apparatus, used the reverse way, can be employed for enlarging from a small negative. Messrs. Perken, Son, and Rayment have called my attention to the model of a camera which they are about to issue, which will be of very great service to the slide pro- ducer, for whose delectation it is, indeed, intended. It is shown at fig 21. It consists of a base-board, upon which travels the central frame (a) by rack and pinion motion. Upon each side of this frame — which carries within it a partition to which is screwed the lens — is a bellows body terminating at one end in a focussing screen, and at the other end in grooves for the reception of a dark slide. It is evident that with such a camera as this, reduction, or repro- duction the same size, can readily be carried out. The negative to be copied is placed in a dark slide, the central partition of which has been removed, so that light from any suitable source may penetrate it. At the other end of the instrument is placed another dark-slide, holding the lantern plate. Focussing, and reduction to any exact size, can be carried out very perfectly and conveniently with such an apparatus as this, which promises to come into extensive use. But, as a matter of fact, it is not absolutely necessary to keep in actual darkness the space between the camera and the negative to be copied, as the presence of this bellows arrangement on both sides of the lens would seem to indi- cate. Both negative and plate must be parallel with one another, and this is best brought about by placing an ordinary AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS. 59 camera on a base-board or table furnished with rails between which it can slide, and taking care that the negative is strictly perpendicular to, as well as rectangular with, those rails. Under such conditions it is quite sufficient to fit the negative into a space cut in the bottom of a box, the box itself lying on its side with its open end towards the lens. We may also modify the arrangement by using two cameras, one to hold the negative, but having its lens and front removed, and the other pointing its lens within that front opening. It may now be useful to review the different methods by Fig. 21. which a negative may be illuminated for the purpose of lantern-slide making. For obvious reasons, we must exclude daylight from consideration. Our aim must be to illuminate the negative evenly, so that no part of it receives more light than another part. This apparently simple proceeding is not so easy as it at first seems to be, and in the case of large negatives presents many difficulties. There is no great difficulty in illuminating a quarter-plate negative, which can be done with a good paraffin lamp or by a batswing burner ; but in either case we shall not secure even lighting 60 EVENING WORK FOR unless we interpose a sheet of ground glass between the negative and the light-source. And here let it be observed that this ground glass should be fine in texture, and should not be so close to the negative that its grain is focussed with it, or we shall have the grain appearing in our lantern slides and ruining the shadows of all our pictures. Care must also be taken that the ground glass is at a sufficient distance from the lamp to secure even diffusion of light. What I mean is this : Suppose we have a paraffin lamp to work by, and we place in front of it and at three inches from the flame, a sheet of ground glass. On observing the effect from a distance of six feet, we notice that the flame makes a kind of central flare spot, and that the edges of the glass are much darker. By moving the ground glass screen further away from the lamp, this effect becomes reduced, until a position is reached where the whole of the glass appears to be equally illuminated. It is at this point that the ground glass diffusing screen should be placed when we require its help in reducing from a negative, and the remark applies to the various forms of apparatus already noticed in which ground glass is employed to attain the same end. In the case of a large negative this diffusion point will be so far from the light that the exposure will be extremely long, and it is questionable whether it is worth while to attempt reduction under such conditions. By daylight it would be easy enough, for we can then use the sky itself as our field of illumination, and even if we are hemmed in with back walls and chimney pots so that no sky is avail- able, we can reflect its light through the negative by using a AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS. 61 piece of white cardboard sloped at an angle of 45 degrees- But if we try the same plan with lamp light, the exposure will be terribly long. I have succeeded in working at night from such negatives, but the preparations have been some- what too elaborate for casual workers, including as they did the mounting of two powerful lime jets with the necessary connections to turn them off and on at the same time. Two lights are necessary, because if the cardboard screen is illu- minated from one side only, that side of the picture is double the density of the side furthest away from the light, and there is a strongly marked gradation from one to the other. The same effect is noticeable in copying pictures at night. Capital copies can be made by gas or paraffin, but two lamps or burners should always be used. A friend of mine does a great deal of copying work at night, and I one day asked him what the average exposure was with the two gas jets he was using. He replied that he did not know, but that each exposure just gave him time to sit down at the piano in the next room and play one of Mendelssohn's Lieder ohne Worte. This is certainly a novel method of measuring photographic time, and one which would horrify the com- pilers of exposure tables, but all the same this conjunction of two arts is pleasant to see. A very great saving of time is secured by the use of a con- densing lens between the light-source and the negative. These lenses can now bo purchased at a much cheaper rate than heretofore, because they are in so much request for enlarging operations, and demand has of course cheapened the supply. With such a lens, and a good gas flame, or better still, the three or four wick lamp from an oil lantern, 62 EVENING W0IIK FOR the business of producing lantern slides from larger nega- tives can be conducted with convenience and dispatch . The com- pound condenser which I use is of the common form, consist- ing of two plano-convex lenses mounted together in one cell, with their curved surfaces almost touching one another. The condenser is conveniently set in a square wooden frame, so that it can be readily moved into any position required. The size of the condensing lens should agree in diameter with the diagonal of the negative which it has to illuminate. A quarter plate, for instance, measures between its extreme corners, about five and a half inches. The proper sized condenser to cover it is obviously one of six inches in diameter. Many years ago large vessels of lenticular form made of white glass were sold, chiefly for the use of chemists, who filled them full of different fluids so as to turn them into coloured lenses. Lenses of this kind were generally fitted into outside lamps, and it was no uncommon thing to see a bare space above the coloured fluid owing to evaporation of the contents of the vessel. The contrivance was simply a lenticular bottle with a little neck at the top, through which it could be filled or emptied. I cannot ascertain whether such bottles are now made, and few persons seem to remem- ber them. About ten years ago too there were brought forward water lenses of the same character which were advocated for the use of shops. These were employed with a bat's-wing burner behind them, and answered the same purpose of attraction as a light fitted with a concave reflec- tor. Now it has occurred to me that if such contrivances were still obtainable they would be largely used by amateur AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS. 63 photographers, both for enlarging purposes and also for illuminating negatives for reduction. But to come into common use they must present the advantage of being far cheaper than the usual condensers of glass. Experiments with hollow lenses filled with coloured glycerine, which are intended for signalling purposes, have recently been going forward under Government supervision. These lenses are the invention of an officer, and, thinking that they might prove useful in various photographic opera- tions, I called on the makers and inspected them, only to find that they were quite useless for such purposes — with the exception that one filled with glycerine which has been stained red would form a brilliant light for the dark- room. The reason of their unsuitability for other purposes is that they are not of the usual lens form, but are shaped like a ship's side light, so that the light from them may cover an angle of 90 degs. This shape permits the two glasses of which they are composed to be cemented into a metal frame, and the whole contrivance is as easily put together as a small table aquarium. Alt' ough I am not in a position to say whether or not water lenses have been employed for photographic purposes, it is certain that they have been used in other branches of science. In the year 1872 Dr. E. M. Fergusson brought before one of the Scottish scientific societies a simple appa- ratus which he had designed for exhibiting wave motion, the principal part of which comprised a hollow lens filled with liquid. This apparatus was described and figured in the Quarterly Journal of Science for April of the same year, and I have thought it worth while to reproduce the drawing, 64 EVENING WORK FOR so that those interested in the matter may be able to see what has already been done (fig. 22). It will be noticed that Dr. Fergusson's apparatus is supported by an ordinary chemical retort-stand, a contrivance which ought to be pos- sessed by every photographer, so useful is it in all sorts of ( perations that come within his ken. In the present case the stand is furnished with five attachments, which are clamped to the main stem in the usual way, and which it will be convenient to letter from the bottom upwards, A, B, C, D, and E. A is a mirror which turns the lumin- ous ray from the light source — in this case a lime jet — from the hori- zontal to the vertical position, so that it may traverse and be condensed by the liquid lens B. This lens, we learn, was made by cutting the top from a well-formed glass shade, and measured eight inches in diameter. Its actual diameter must, however, be measured at the surface of the contained liquid, which was found I fancy that glasses like enlarged which are made to cover clock faces, would be the better article to get for this purpose. In the case before us the containing vessel is actually deeper than would be required for most purposes, for here the liquid had to be disturbed in order to induce wave motion. This was brought about by means of the bent Fig. 22. to be six inches, watch glasses. and AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS. G5 thistle-headed tube C, which, by means of a tap and finely pointed exit tube, could be made to emit drops slowly or quickly. The liquid employed was spirit, on account of its greater limpidity, but water would be used for ordinary optical work. Next above this liquid lens is an ordinary lantern objective or photographic lens, and above this again we have another sloping mirror to once more turn the vertical ray to the horizontal direction, so that the image formed by the objective lens may be projected upon a screen. A still more simple arrangement, under the title of " water lantern," is described in Mayer s little book on the phenomena of sound. Of this I give a sectional drawing in fig. 23, from which it will be seen that the apparatus takes the form of a box on end, but open at one side for the introduction of the light rays, from whatever source they may be obtained. These rays are received by the sloping mirror M 1 , and are reflected by it towards the condensing water lens P. Upon the surface of the water may be laid a plate of thin glass, which will serve both as a defence against dust, and also as a con- venient transparent table upon which slides and other objects for projection can be laid. Above this there is a smaller water lens to act as an objective, which is held in a moveable shelf, the height of which can be carefully ad- justed by the screw nut S. To crown all, there is a second Fig. 23. 66 EVENING WORK FOR mirror M, swung like a toilet glass between two uprights, whose duty it is to bring the light rays once more to the horizontal position for projection upon a screen. It is evident that in both these devices much light must be lost by reflection. This might be obviated in fig. 23 by dispensing with the lower mirror, and putting in its place a lime-jet in such a position that the luminous side of the lime would be presented towards the lens. There would be no great difficulty in this, for a lime- jet will burn well in any position in which it may be held. The heat from it rising upwards, would tend to cover the lens with moisture, but this could be obviated in the description of lens under con- sideration by filling it with warm water instead of with cold. The glass cover to the lens at once suggests the con- struction of one which shall remain permanently closed, and which shall be available in the horizontal or vertical posi- tion. The construction of a compound condenser, consisting of two plano-convex lenses of large size, should not present any insuperable difficulties. In constructing one element of such a condenser the first thing would be to obtain a concave glass, and a flat glass of exactly the same size. These should be ground with emery and water for half an inch on both sides round their edges. The next thing would be to procure a metal annular frame of this section JL, and to carefully putty them in with a mixture of white and red lead in oil, leaving a small hole in one of the glasses, at the extreme edge, through which the lens could be filled with water after the cement had hardened. It must be remembered that unless such a lens were quite ful] of AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS 67 liquid it could not be used in the horizontal position, for any air bubble that remained would naturally find its way to the highest point, and would make its presence evident upon the screen. Those who are familiar with the lime-light will doubtless use it for this work in preference to any other illuminant, and the gain in time will of course be considerable. With a compound condenser such as I use, a sheet of ground glass as a further aid in diffusing the light over the negative, and a good lime jet, the work becomes quite luxurious. The light given is constant, and as in these days of amateur excellence one man's negatives are as alike in density as peas in a pod, little variation in exposure is necessary. The condenser should have in front of it a grooved frame into which one negative after another can be dropped, while it yields its image to the lantern plate. By screening one part of the room, and taking the precaution to use covered dishes, one plate may be developed while another is being exposed, the two operations going on simultaneously. A word as to the best form of screen to employ for lantern projection will not be out of place. In cases where the lantern is being constantly used, whether for trying slides in the amateur's workroom or for demonstration in lecture theatres and schools, it is of importance that a suitable screen or sheet should be avail- able at a moment's notice. This should be made of opaque material, for it must be remembered that all light which filters through such a screen is lost, and the pictures suffer proportionately. A whitewashed wall makes the finest lantern screen — and this is provided in some few lecture 68 EVENING WORK. theatres — the unsightly patch of whiteness being hidden, when not in use, by curtains. But a portable screen which is quite as effective has recently been put on the market by Messrs. Mason and Payne, the map publishers, of Cornhill. This is made of strong cloth, faced on each side with paper, so that it may be quite opaque to the rays from the lantern. The cloth is stretched, shrunk, and mounted with its paper facing, by experienced hands, so that the surface is as flat as a whitewashed wall, and far whiter, for the pigment which is subsequently applied to its front surface so as to give it a finish, is the finest oxide of zinc, a material which does not like flake- w 7 hite, darken with time. These screens are fitted with roller and lath, so that when not in use they are rolled up out of sight like a window blind. They are made in all sizes, the largest ever made being perhaps that which was used for my photographic lectures in the theatre at the Crystal Palace. This measured thirty feet square, and contained, therefore, 100 square yards of material. About forty pounds of zinc oxide was used to give it its snowy coat of white, and the pictures projected upon it w r ere consequently of extreme brightness. CHAPTER VIII. LANTERN SLIDES ON GELATINE PLATES. OJSTG after the gelatine process had alnost displaced wet plates for negative work, there were many accomplished photographers who expressed the opinion with great vehemence that although the new system had placed a fresh power in their hands, it was quite unfit for producing good lantern slides. And this notion is one which seems difficult to eradicate, for it is stated in quite recent books on photography, that wet plates are by far the best for trans- parency work. It is certainly the easiest, and on the whole the best for the commercial production of slides, but I cannot agree that gelatine must take a back place. On the contrary, some of the first examples of lantern slides which 1 have ever seen have been made on gelatine plates. And the dealers have at last been converted, for within the past year " lantern plates " have been introduced by most manufac- turers, and are largely used by amateurs. These plates may be roughly divided into two classes, namely, chloride plates and bromide plates, and we will now see what advantage each kind offers to the worker. I my- 70 EVENING WORK FOR self have a weakness for the first named, and believe that it' their exposure and development be carefully attended to, they will give the finest possible results, while at the same time they afford a variety of tones unattainable by any other process. The chloride plate has, too, one distinct and enor- mous advantage in the amount of light which it will stand during development, without any fear of fogging. When we remember that the beauty of a transparency so much depends upon stopping the developing action as soon as the required amount of density is apparent, we must admit that a brilliant light under which the least change can be readily noted without any straining of the eyes is one of the first elements of success. A brilliant paraffin lamp with a single sheet of thin yellow paper pinned round its globe, is per- fectly safe for a chloride plate, and will at the same time illuminate the whole of the so-called dark room. Another advantage which may be credited to the chloride plate is its quickness under development, it being quite possible to take several dozen pictures in the course of a couple of hours, provided, of course, that the negatives be ready at hand, and that everything is in due order. On the other hand, the plates are so insensitive to light that they cannot be used for reduction in the camera, and must be printed by contact. The exposure to gas light is far too protracted for quick work, and if the negatives are of the old-fashioned yellow kind, it is almost impossible to work by gas even with very long exposures. Daylight is the most certain light to which to expose such plates, the average exposure being about three seconds. I am aware that many recom- mend the use of magnesium wire, but this light is uncertain, AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS. 71 difficult to control, and the fumes given off by the burning metal are certainly objectionable, if not injurious. So I may sum up the matter by saying that I prefer chloride plates for lantern slides, provided the operator has the chance of making his exposures in daylight. There is no doubt that this proviso will place the process out of court for the many whose only leisure time is in the evening ; and this circumstance, together with the unsuitability of the chloride plate to reduction work in the camera, has stimu- lated manufacturers in offering a bromide plate which offers no such objections. I have tried, I think, all the bromide lantern plates which are offered for sale, and am pleased to say that all are good. Some I naturally prefer to others ; but it would be invidious to name any one brand in particular, for it is quite possible that I have not adopted in all cases the most suitable developer for the particular plate under examina- tion. Whilst they are far less rapid than the plates used for negative work, they require care against undue access of light during treatment, and the dark-room lamp must be screened with a red, not a yellow medium. This darkening of the working light renders the attainment of the proper density, as already indicated, far more uncertain than in the case of chloride plates, and the beginner, at any rate, will find that his collection of ghosts, as well as overdone prints, will accumulate pretty quickly. But the exposure to gas-light is certainly a convenience which many will appre- ciate, especially as a great deal of latitude is obtainable by the simple expedient of increasing or diminishing the dis- tance between the printing frame and the lamp. More- EVENING WORK. over, this exposure, lasting, as it does, for at least twenty seconds, gives the operator every chance of shielding certain portions of the negative, so as to get effects of distance and atmosphere, which will often confer a charm even upon the slide from a poor flat negative. Should a gelatine positive on glass not be dense enough to give full effect in the lantern, it is far better to throw it away than attempt to intensify it, for it is easy enough to correct the fault in exposing another plate. But, on the other hand, if a mistake has been made in the other direc- tion, and the picture, while full of detail, is too dense for the light to penetrate through the film, the fault can be easily rectified, and if reasonable care be taken, a fine picture will often result. To reduce a dense picture (and this plan is, of course, applicable to an over-dense negative as well), mix a solution of fresh hypo of half the usual strength, and put it in a small dish. A couple of ounces of solution will be quite sufficient. Then in another dish make a weak solution of red prussiate of potash (ferridcyanide), say 10 grs. to 2 ozs. of water. Allow the slide, which requires reduction, to remain in the first solution for a minute or two, and then, without washing it, transfer it to the other dish. Watch it well, for the action is so rapid that over- reduction may ensue. Remove quickly, and place the slide under the tap. This remedy is also useful for that common fault, a dirty sky, owing to penetration of the light through a thin negative. In this case paint over the sky with the dilute hypo, and follow with the prussiate solution, using a camel-hair brush in both cases. In little more than a minute the sky will te effectually cleared. 2 CHAPTER TX. CLOUDS IN LANTERN PICTURES. 0 one will deny that a lantern picture is often improved by the addition of clouds, and if these happily appear in the one negative, so much the better. Sometimes clouds are so buried in the over-dense sky of the negative that it is a difficult matter to get at them. Sometimes local re- duction may be advisable, and if the worker is afraid of doctor- ing his negative with chemicals, after he has looked upon it as finished and clone with, he may with advantage adopt that mechanical mode of reduction which is possible by rub- bing with old linen moistened with alcohol. (This method will, by the way, often unearth the details of a church window, which before had been lost in halation.) If, however, there are no clouds in the negative, and a large expanse of white is the printed result, we must adopt other means to remedy the defect, for defect it is. In the case of a snow scene, or, indeed, any picture where there are brilliant high lights, the sky can be toned after printing by exposing it to light, shielding the rest of the picture. It can even be clone after partial deve^pment — the redevelopment finishing the land- 74 EVENING WORK FOR scape and toning the sky at the same time. But when actual clouds are requisite, a separate cloud negative must be used. The work is by no means as easy as it is in the case of a silver print on paper, for the reason that so much judgment is required during the exposure, first of the land- scape, and then of the sky negative, the actual results not being apparent until development. Some advocate the printing of the sky on a separate plate, and then making that plate the cover glass of the finished slide. But the difficulties are increased by such procedure, for the image of the clouds is reversed. I believe that the best plan to adopt is as follows. First of all select the sky negative for use, taking care that the clouds are lighted from the proper direction. (To make all safe, it is as well to make a trial silver print from the combined negatives, in order to see if one is really suited to the other.) Next fix a 3 -inch mask on the glass side of each negative, so that the lantern plate can readily be removed from one to the other, and will be in register for both. Measure the height of the horizontal line on the landscape negative, and if it be, say, an inch and a half from the bottom of the paper mask referred to, make a pencil mark at that height on the mask which is affixed to the cloud negative. Now give the necessary ex- posure to the landscape — preferably by gaslight, as then there is plenty of latitude — and then (by ruby light) remove the plate from its frame and place it in another frame, on the cloud negative. Fasten it up securely, turn the frame over, and note the position of the pencil mark on the mask. Now turn up the gas once more, and during exposure shield that portion of the plate below the pencil mark with a piece AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS. 75 of card. Keep the card in motion well above the mark so as to get a graduated tint, and after due exposure turn down the gas and prepare for development. Be sure to have at hand a ten per cent, solution of bromide, with a camel-hair brush in it ready for use. It may not be wanted, but if it should be, it will be wanted badly. For instance, the sky may soon show that it has received more than sufficient ex posure, while the landscape has not had enough and hangs back. In such a case, rinse the sky portion of the plate, and paint it over with the bromide solution ; then redevelop. But a little practice with this method of double-printing will render such dodges unnecessary, for the operator will soon acquire the habit of exposing his plates to suit the needs of both negatives. But when all is said and done, the best effect is to be obtained when the one negative is adorned with natural clouds. Very often in this climate clouds are more common than is desirable, especially as they generally hold a remarkable quantity of rain ; but on the sunny days vouchsafed to us the clouds are welcome, from an artistic point of view, at any rate. In lately looking over a set of instantaneous seascapes taken last autumn on the south coast, I was surprised to find that a cloudless sky was the exception rather than the rule. One more word. Do not lose the opportunity of securing cloud negatives, for they can be obtained on days when other photographic work is next to impossible. At the same time, make a note by compass of the direction in which the camera is pointed, and the hour at which the negative is taken. Similar notes regarding landscape negatives will enable the operator to wed any two without a sacrifice of truth. Thus, sup- 76 EVENING WORK FOR posing, for the sake of illustration, we have a picture of Shakespeare's Cliff, taken at 5 p.m., in August, from the Admiralty Pier, of which it is due west. A westerly sky negative taken in the same month, at the same time, can be associated with it without hesitation. The question of altitude of clouds need not trouble us if the camera be always kept level, and the horizontal line be made to regis- ter in both landscape and cloud negatives, as I have already pointed out. Most instantaneous shutters are so constructed that they will give a much shorter exposure to the sky than to the landscape beneath, and if clouds be present they will be reproduced in the negative in a printable form. A shutter for the express purpose of producing pictures adorned with natural clouds was invented some time back by Mr. Leisk, and is sold, I believe, by Messrs. Marion. But I fancy that it was adapted more for seascape, where there is an un- broken horizontal line, than for more general work. Tn my own practice, when I am anxious to secure cloud effects I use a shutter which was designed and brought out about twenty-five years back by Mr. Dallmeyer, but which, like many other things, has been of late years revived and re- introduced, in a slightly altered and perhaps improved form. In its modern dress it is known as Place's shutter, and its chief merits He in its simplicity, and in the control which the hand can exercise over it during exposure. It consists of a frame having two grooves, in each of which slides an ebonite plate. These plates are connected together by cords which run over a small roller at the top of the contrivance. When one ebonite plate is down in front of the lens, the AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS. 77 other is raised in its groove out of the way. By a string attached to this upper plate it is pulled down, and as it descends the other plate rises and the exposure is made. The duration of exposure, and the amount of extra time devoted to the exposure of the foreground, is therefore directly under the control of the hand which pulls the string. I have found it convenient to keep this shutter on my lens during the whole of a day's tramp with the camera, for, as will be evident, it is serviceable for any kind of subject which is likely to be met with, from that which requires a quick exposure, to the many seconds wanted when the camera is beneath the shade of thick foliage. There is one thing to be guarded against in the use of separate cloud negatives, and that is the tendency to use them for every picture without consideration. In our exhi- bitions a large proportion of the works hung are often spoilt by being wedded with incongruous clouds, and many amateurs seem to think that if there is only a little patch of open sky it must have a bit of cloud pitchforked into it somehow. This is a mistake. In landscapes containing plenty of subject, and more especially in those in which there is a tracery of foliage against a large portion of the sky, the picture is the better for not being tampered with. A sunlit landscape photograph is very often spoilt by asso- ciation with a dark cloudy sky through which in nature no sunlight could possibly penerate. I may mention in con- cluding this portion of my work, that an excellent article on printing -in clouds in lantern slides from the pen of Mr. Lyonel Clark appeared in the October (1889) number of the Photographic Quarterly. q CHAPTER X. ON FRAME MAKING. HE amateur photographer who is skilled in the use of carpenter's tools has a great advantage over his fellows, for he can not only fit up his dark-room with all kinds of con- veniences, but he can make part of his appara- tus with his own hands, and thus be independent of outside help. Those with long purses are apt to decry the efforts of the amateur carpenter, and perhaps naturally prefer to call in pro- fessional aid. But in doing so they quite lose sight of the pleasure which a man derives from constructing things for him- self, and the advantage of producing results at the expenditure of a few shillings, whilst others will spend as many pounds, and fail to do as well. It may be said that picture frames are so cheap that it is not worth while to attempt to make them at home. But this argument might be applied to a hundred other things besides frames — and even to photographs them- selves — for no one can say that nowadays they are not cheap, The true amateur will never listen to such pleadings, for his pleasure is found in his hobby and the thousand and one little employments which it brings to him. Evening work. 79 I feel sure, therefore, that many of my readers who have leisure will be disposed to take up the art of frame- making, and will thus be able to beautify the walls of their rooms with the work of their cameras. The power of being able to make a frame will also often induce them to give a welcome present to a friend, and one which will be the more valued because it is of an unusual character. As a beginning, the amateur frame-maker should confine himself to the purchase of mouldings, which are sold of various patterns in lengths of about 10 ft. A plain, flat oak moulding, with a gold slip inserted beneath the glass, is a safe pattern for a photograph, for it will always look well on any wall. But the most captious will be able to find a pattern and style to suit him, for the different mouldings now obtainable are of the most varied description. Photographs of an ecclesiastical character will often look well in an Oxford frame, because of its cruciform corners. But it must be remembered that there is a stringent and very necessary law against the admission of pictures so framed to all exhibitions — not because there is any moral wrong in framing a picture in this way, but because their presence entails loss of wall space. An Oxford frame may be likened to an octopus, by reason of the eight projections with which it is furnished, and for which room must be found, unless they are at once ruthlessly amputated. Intending exhibitors must, therefore, eschew the Oxford style of frame, or keep them for home use. They are easy enough to make and no one who has purchased one as a pattern, and is a little skilled in the use of tools, can fail even in the first attempt at constructing one. The only point where he is likely to 80 EVENING WORK FOli be baffled is in cutting the rebate, in which will subsequently rest the picture, glass, and back. For this work, as well as for more general purposes, I have employed a very useful little tool, which I purchased long ago in Liverpool, and which may, for ought I know to the contrary, be obtainable in London, but I have never seen it here, except in my own workshop. It is shown at fig. 24, and is known as a rabbet- ing tool. It is here shown full size, and its parts will be readily understood by help of the reference letters. The Fig. 24. vertical part is round, and made of brass, with an oblique stem springing from it on the right-hand side, which forms the shank to which the handle (not shown in the cut) is attached. C is a set-screw, the duty of which is to hold the cutter a tightly in position after it has been adjusted to give a cut of a certain depth. Another set-screw, b, controls the position of a kind of right-angled shoe, which is hollowed out so as to clamp upon the vertical part. This shoe has a flat side facing the cutter, and it will be readily understood that its distance from the cutter can be adjusted to any AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS. 81 desired distance. Thus it will be seen that the depth of cut can be regulated, and also the width of the rebate which is cut. In the position in which the tool is shown in the drawing, the piece of wood upon which it is desired to operate would be held rigidly on the edge of the work bench or table, and after the cut had been made to its full depth, by repeated strokes the tool would be turned over so that the cutter acted vertically upon the top face of the same piece of wood. By this means the two cuts would meet, and a square rod would be cut out from the material operated upon, the space occupied by it forming the required rebate. By adjusting the set-screws between the two cuts the width and depth of the rebate can, of course, be varied to any re- quired measurement. This useful little tool is invaluable to the amateur photographer, because it can be applied to so many other purposes. Suppose, for instance, that a carrier is required for the accommodation of a plate in a dark-slide which is far too big for it. This rabbeting tool will soon cut the necessary groove for the reception of the glass after the carrier has been cut out of soft pine. It is also of service in cutting the tongue upon each side of a temporary camera front, and for many other purposes too numerous to specify. Its cost is only about one shilling, and it is so solidly made that it will last a lifetime. The necessary tools for general frame-making are few, but they should be of the very best quality. Their cost is very little, if the amateur worker be a good enough carpenter to make his own mitre-block and shooting-board. But let him not attempt to make these unless he is a first-rate workman, for if either be the least out of truth, every frame made wil» 82 EVENING WORK FOR suffer for the fault. Both of these necessary appliances can be bought ready made, and I advise that they should be obtained thus, to save both disappointment with results and much loss of temper. The simple mitre-block — whose duty it is to cut off lengths of moulding at an angle of 45 degs., so as to form a mitre joint at each corner of the frame — is shown at fig. 25. It needs but a few words of description, so simple is it in design. It consists of a baseboard, upon which is firmly glued and Fig. 25. screwed from below a somewhat thicker piece of wood, in which are three saw-cuts. One of these is straight across the centre, and the other two are each cut at an angle with it of 45 degs., but in reverse directions. The contrivance, it will be seen, forms a step, upon the lower level of which is placed the wood, or moulding, to be cut. By aid of the middle saw-cut — which now serves as a guide for the saw — the piece of wood thus inserted may be cut straight across, or, by utilising either of the other cuts, at an angle, which will at once render it fit to serve as part of a picture frame. The other contrivance, pictured at fig. 26, is the shooting- board, which needs almost less description than the mitre- AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS. 83 block. Here, again, we have a step arrangement, and a means of holding the lengths of moulding which have already been cut on the mitre-block, in such a position that a plane run on its side along that lower step will effectually shave off enough of the cut end to make a clean join with another end which has been similarly treated. I may mention here that if the saw used in the first operation be of the right description, a fine tenon-saw, the necessity for this after-business of shooting — that is, planing — will be Fig. 26. obviated, provided that the mitre-block is absolutely true. It must be true not only with regard to correct angles, but also in respect to the saw-cuts, which must be perpendicular to the baseboard, otherwise the frame will not lie flat — that is to say, its parts will not occupy one plane. There is another form of mitre-block, shown in fig. 27, wl i^h presents some advantages, and certainly it is a very easy one to construct. In this case the saw always occupies the same position in the transverse saw-cut, the pieces of wood, or moulding, being moved to the right or left of it as may be required. The only objection to the use of this instrument is that few persons are educated up to using 84 EVENING WORK FOR either hands indifferently. Usually the right hand is used for guiding the saw, and in this case the left hand must be stretched over it to hold the wood whilst it is being cut. Those who use both hands indifferently will not suffer this inconvenience. It need hardly be pointed out that the plane used for this wood must be square in section, or it will not give a true vertical cut when laid on its side. The actual form of the plane beyond this does not much matter, but it must be Fig. 27. sharpened and set to a very fine adjustment. There is a description of plane made with a single, instead of a double, iron, which dees well for the work, but an ordinary " jack " or a " trying " plane will answer the purpose. Still, it is far better to devote a plane to this one purpose, and to use it for nothing else. A form of plane which cuts with great ease is one in which the iron is set obliquely — called, I believe, a bevel plane. All these different forms are made with the handle set in the side, instead of in the top, immediately behind the iron. This side arrangement gives better control over the tool, as it slides to and fro on the lower step of the AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS. 85 shooting-board. But the instrument which is better than any for frame-making is a good metal plane. It can be set to cut a far finer shaving than a wooden tool, and it has the advantage of weight — that is to say, when once in motion it does half the work by its own impetus. It is not, moreover, subject to the scratches and other evidences of wear and tear which are common to wooden planes. There is nothing new about the methods of cutting a mitre which I have detailed. Indeed, I should suppose that the mitre block and shooting board can themselves boast a very high antiquity. And a proof of their efficiency is found in their present popularity with the trade. Peep into the workshop of any professional frame maker, and you will see these venerable but effective appliances still at work, in preference to a number of more modern con- trivances for performing the same offices. It is not by any means my purpose to decry the various appliances for cutting mitred joints which are now sold, for some of these are extremely serviceable. It would, indeed, be wise for the frame maker who can afford it to buy one of these machines as a labour- saver ; but, from my experience of them, I am bound to admit that the cut which they make, although apparently clean and regular, is all the better for a finishing touch with the plane on the shooting board. Whether this want of exactitude is due to spring in the metal composing the cutting blade of the machine, or to the elasticity of the wood when cut under slow pressure, it is difficult to determine. But I should think that both causes contribute to the result. It may be the outcome of clumsiness on my part, but I certainly find that a frame 86 EVENING WORK FOR made in the old-fashioned way has better corner joints than those cut by machine. If the amateur should have many frames to make, it is perhaps the best plan to cut and shoot the four pieces com- prising each, and after placing them in position on a flat surface to see whether the corners meet one another well, to tie up those relating to each particular frame, leaving the joining up to take place when all are ready for that stage of the work. By following this procedure the hand becomes accustomed to each operation involved, and a gradual improvement in the way in which it is executed will soon become manifest. To make a good join, the best glue must be employed, and it must be used freshly mixed, for, as all users of gelatinous bodies should know, every time the glue is melted it loses a certain amount of its tenacity. It must also be hot as well as fresh, and must be applied to the work neatly and quickly. To glue up a mitred corner, place the longer piece of moulding in the bench-vice in a verti- cal position, and hold its fellow to it in the position it is to occupy permanently, but slightly overlapping the part which is held in the bench vice. The necessity of this precaution will be seen when the brads to hold the two pieces together are driven home, when it will become evi- dent that there is a natural tendency upon the upper piece to slide downwards on the inclined plane formed by the cut edge of the lower piece. Holding the upper portion in the manner described, a hole should be bored downwards with a small bradawl, and in this hole a brad is inserted with the fingers. The pieces are now separated, the glue AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS. 87 applied sparingly to each surface, the pieces joined cnce more, and the nail driven home with the hammer, Various forms of mitre-cramps are sold which are used to hold the freshly- joined corner firmly until dry, but here again we can adopt an older-fashioned method with ad- vantage. Cut out of close-grained wood, such as beech, a series of L-shaped pieces, of a thickness corresponding with that of the frame to be made. . When all four corners of the frame have been joined up as described, place it flat on a table, and furnish each corner with one of these L pieces. Now stretch a strong cord right round the frame so that each L-piece is held firmly in position, after which, by twisting a stick round the cord, great tension can be put upon it, and the whole frame is bound tightly together until the cord is released after the glue has had time to dry. Even though a frame has been well made, our work is not finished, for some little art and care are necessary in placing the picture within it. Unless this be done well and in such a manner that the air is wholly excluded, both back and front, our labour will be lost. It is a common thing to see a framed picture with its mount begrimed with smoke or dust, and generally discoloured. The reason of this is the omission of one very necessary precaution which should always be observed in framing water-colour drawings, pho- tographs, or any description of picture which must be pro- tected by glass. This consists in sealing the glass into the frame so that no contamination can reach the face of the picture. The way to do this effectively is as follows : — First see that both frame and glass are perfectly clean, and that the latter fits the rebate without leaving a vacant 88 EVENING WORK FOR space between the glass and the inner side of the mould- ing. Glaziers are the most careless of workmen, and it seems a matter of indifference to them whether a glass fits well or badly in a frame which is entrusted to their tender mercies, a difficulty which the amateur will avoid if he only will take the trouble to learn to use a diamond himself. Having a well-fitting glass placed within the frame as it lies face downwards on a blanket-covered table, proceed to attach some previously cut slips of good stout paper by means of glue, to the edge of the glass. This should be done in such a way that the glass is actually glued into the frame all round, and cannot fall out when the frame is inverted. Next place the mounted picture upon the glass, and finally fill in the back with the usual board. A good frame maker will use for this purpose a properly planed and joined board, so that it has no seams through which the ever-present dust can get inside. But the modern cheap and nasty frame maker thinks it quite sufficient to insert a few rickety and very knotty boards, which would be quite useless for any other purpose under the sun. The quality of the board does not really matter very much, if it be, after nailing into the frame, completely covered with good brown paper by means of glue. Dust and smoke must be kept out by some such means, and their exclusion is particularly necessary in the case of photographs. All narrow frames, whether they be of oak, ebonized wood, or any other material, are much improved by the insertion of a gold slip next to the picture. This can, like the mouldings, be bought by the length, and can be obtained of the same dealers. It is a false economy to use anything AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS. 89 but a slip which has been covered with real gold leaf. The imitation ones look well for a time, but any scratch unseen at first soon develops into a black line, and this is the case even if it be placed under the glass. This course I recom- mend in all cases, even with the real gold slip, for it is by this means protected from all external influences, and will always remain clean and bright. It will be seen later on that gilded frames receive a final coating of clear size made from parchment cuttings. This seems to somewhat dull their appearance when first applied, but the coating is a useful protector from dirt and dust. A frame of this description which has begun to look as if it required regilding can often be renovated by the home worker. All that is necessary is to carefully sponge the frame with hot water, and to once more give it a coating of protective size. CHAPTER XL ON FASHION IN FPA^IES. HERE has been somewhat of a revolution in the matter of picture fraires during the past few years, and, as a rule the elaborate frames of past days are giving place to these of afar more simple and less ornate character. In our permanent picture galleries we can still see the scalloped gilt monstrosities which our forefathers con- sidered necessary to set off their pictures. Rut in a modern gallery we see few of these old-time frames, for they have been superseded by those of newer fashion. It must be admitted that some of these are so simple in character that they border on the eccentric. For instance, that wayward genius, Van Reers, who has during the past few years had an annual exhibition of his own works, seems to despise the ordinary gilt frame entirely, and prefers to use a frame made of wood stretched over with coarse canvas and painted with green distemper. Many of his pictures I have seen thus framed, some EVENING WORK. 91 measuring something less than a photographic quarter- plate being furnished with a frame quite nine inches in width. This arrange, ment certainly has the ad vantage of preventing the works being crowded, or in- jured in effect by juxtapo- sition, but it is extremely eccentric. Van Beers, how- ever, is not the only painter who rejoices in queer-looking frames. Mr. Whistler treats his pictures in much the same way, and evidently with the intention that the 'spectator's eye should not be enticed away from the principal object. This is all very well, but the idea may be carried too far, and is carried too far, especially by those of our younger artists who are trying to found a new school of painting. The eccentricity of their pictures is often only exceeded by the peculi- arity of the frames in which they are set. In portraits of eminent men it would always be well if the frame could be made consonant in some way with in- Fig. 29. 92 EVENING WORK FOR cidents of their lives, or with their studies or works. Thus a portrait of Sir Isaac Newton might be framed in carved wood, depicting some of the apparatus used in his researches, just as, in the case of the portrait of another famous Izaak — the father of anglers — which is hung at Brasenose Col- lege, the frame is adorned with rod and tackle and other mysteries of the fisher- man's stock-in-trade. In a recent [exhibition in London, I noted with pleasure that an Egyptian subject was framed very happily in gilded wood, upon which were carved representations of hiero- glyphics, whilst the two uprights on either side were columns modelled from those of Egyptian rock-cut temples. This plan of framing a pic- ture with regard to its subject is much to be commended. But we must remember that the large majority of persons whose por ■^ IG * traits are painted or photographed lead humdrum, colourless lives, and it would tax the ingenuity to its AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS. 93 utmost to frame them in a distinctive manner, portraits I have lately- noticed the introduc- tion of a type of frame which is very effective, and which I fancy is of French origin. It consists of a simple flat, covered with can- vas of very open tex- ture, which is glued to the wood and then gilded or silvered. Upon this flat, which has the general ap- For ladies' Fig. 32. pearance of frosted metal, is attached at one corner a sprig of some flower, also in gold or red bronze. This ornament has the charm of carelessness, and is most effective. The same frames, too, instead of being covered with canvas, may be glued and sprinkled with rice, or any kind of grain, being afterwards silvered Fig. 33. or g n t . Gilded oak frames of various designs have also come lately into fashion, and if the wood be of handsome figure — by 7 94 EVENING WORK FOE which I mean beautiful grain — and this grain be allowed to show well through the gold, the effect is as fine as can be desired. This is, moreover, a kind of frame that is well calculated to show off a photograph. Many amateurs who have tried any form of gilding have been tempted to give it up in despair. This arises princi- pally from the circumstance that the gold-leaf used is so extremely thin and light that it is the sport of every breath of air, and it invariably shows a dis- position to cling to every- thing except the precise spot for which it is in- tended. Like most other delicate operations, this one of gilding requires an apprenticeship before it can be practised with any perfection, and it is very doubtful whether an ama- teur worker, however skilled, will ever be able to master, without this apprenticeship, the art of matt gilding and bur- nishing. Under these circumstances, it would seem to be futile to recommend an amateur to attempt to gild his frames, and it would be so were ornate mouldings with burnished lines and projections under coDsideration. But the matter of gilding an oak fiat or rounded moulding is comparatively simple, and well within his powers. The operation has, moreover, been simplified by the introduction of the transfer process, by which the gold leaf is kept well Fig. 34. AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS. 95 in hand, and nnable to stray away during the progress of the work. This transfer gold is sold in leaves, which are attached to waxed paper, an attachment which is finally overcome by the greater tenacity of the medium employed to stick the metal to its final support. I will now briefly describe each pattern of frame which is here illustrated. Fig. 28 consists of two flats of dead gold — one forming a kind of inner slip to the other. Fig. 29 is of ribbed dark or stained wood, with a gold slip next the pic- ture. Fig. 30 is a moulded oak frame, gilded so that the grain or figure of the wood shows up clearly through the gold, and catches the light in a very pleasing manner. I may mention that such moulded wood is sold at many sawmills, for decorative purposes, and by a little building up at the back may be rendered serviceable for picture frames. Fig. 31 is more elaborate, because it has a carved border, but the major part of the frame is flat oak gilded. No. 32 is a bevelled frame, the bevel running in two different directions, as may be seen by reference to the sectional diagram. Such a frame can be made cf various materials, so as to suit the picture or the wall upon which it has to be hung. This latter point, although a minor one, is of some importance. Plain oak looks well almost on any wall, for it is neither very light nor very dark in tone. Ebony frames look well on dark walls, but afford a violent and unpleasant con- trast to a light one. Fig. 33 has a more elaborate appearance than the frames already noticed, because of tho pattern carved upon it. The 96 EVENING WORK. frame can be made of oak, and the pattern marked upon it by means of a stencil ; the marked portions bang afterwards cut out with a carving tool — no very difficult; matter. The frame from which I copied this pattern was gilded oak, and was in keeping with the subject of the picture which it held — the courtyard of a stately old building. No. 34 is also a gilded oak frame, with a kind of raised wavy bead upon it, which forms a loop at each corner. CHAPTER XII. ON FRAME-MAKING, AND GILDING. |]AK, like other wood, is porous and greedy of moisture of any kind. The first operation, therefore, is to give it a coating which shall act as a support for the gilding medium to be afterwards applied to it. Strong parch- ment size — which, like everything else required in this work, can be bought at the gilder's material shops — is the sub- stance to use after it has been melted, with the addition of a little hot water. This size must be strained, and painted well into the wood with a hog-hair brush — the work being done not too quickly, so as to avoid any frothing of the liquid. After being so treated, the frame is set aside to dry thoroughly, after which it will be im- proved by being rubbed down with the finest glass paper, and sized once more. Again the frame is dried, and now it is ready for the coat of medium which is to hold the gold- leaf to its surface. This medium is known to the trade as oil gold size, and it is applied to the wood with a flat camel-hair 98 EVENING WORK FOR brush. After this coating of gold-size, the frame must be set aside in a place quite free from dust for a period ranging from twelve to twenty hours, the time being governed — ■ ™" *» by the quality and age of the gold size, and also to some extent by the weather. For during this time the varnish-like fluid gradually evapo- rates, and it must be al- Fig. 35. lowed to do so until it has reached just that point of " tackiness " when the gold will adhere to it best. When this point is reached, the gold-leaf — previously cut en bloc with a pair of scissors to the best size to suit the moulding to be covered — is pressed on bit by bit, each piece over- laying the edge of the other until the entire sur- face is covered. Now let the frame rest for a few more hours, and lightly dust off the superfluous gold with a clean dry cloth. The operation is completed by giving the gilded surface a coating of clear parchment \ Fig. 36. AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS. 99 size, which protects the delicate surface from all attacks of contaminated air, etc. At a recent exhibition in London, I was interested in noticing the new styles of frames which many of the artists had adopted, and I amused myself by making thumb-nail sketches in my catalogue, both of the pic- tures themselves, and also of their frames, in cases where the more ordinary patterns were departed from. These sketches I have reproduced here, and it will be seen that many of the designs are so simple that they can very readily be adopted by the amateur frame- maker. In many cases I Fig. 37. have shown how the beauty of the frame can be en- hanced by preserving the grain of the wood, and this grain is far more noticeable if the wood be gilded than if it be left bare. There is certainly, in the case of oak, no course between the two extremes — at least, in my humble opinion. Yarnish, or polish, in any form is simply execrable, and if the wood be left entirely unprotected, it Fig. 38. 100 EVENING WORK FOR soon gets dark and grimy. In the case of a simple bead- ing, this does not much matter, for a little rubbing with glass paper will soon give it a new surface ; but if the frame be elaborate in character this mode of treatment is not ap- plicable. Fig. 35 was remarkable for being made of rough dark- stained wood without gild- ing. It enclosed a large pic- ture of a cottage interior, and the subject was here again in accordance with the simpli- city of the frame. Fig. 36 is an unusual kind of com- bination; the broad part Fig. 39. of the frame being of dark wood bevelled back to- wards the wall, and the "ZZZZZ ornamental beading being made of metal, and having the appearance of oxydised silver. Fig. 37 exhibits another spec 'men of a pattern in gilded oak with a carved ornament near its outer edge. An effective pattern for a wholly gilt frame is seen at fig. 38 ; and No. 39 is a gilt oak frame with raised diamonds upon it. This frame is more eccentric than effective, and as it had no possible reference to the subject of the picture, seemed to Fig. 40. AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHERS. 101 be meaningless in design. Fig. 40 is a frame made of deal, and stretched with coarse canvas, which is afterwards coated with glue and gilded as already described. Figs. 41 and 42 are both plain oak frames with hollowed out panels. I copied these from pictures in theGrosvenor Gal- lery, and they were certainly effective. They can be made by building up pieces of oak, by any one having a slight knowledge of the use of tools. In frame-making we must guard against over-elaboration, and must constantly re -^V? member that, after all, the "5 work must be subvervient j~ m to the picture which it is destined to contain. This -'- - over-elaboration was the fashion in days gone by, so much so that it was not uncommon to hear an ignorant critic make re- marks about the beauty of the frame, and paying very scant attention to the picture. As we have already seen, there is a tendency now-a-days to go to the opposite ex- treme, and to frame a picture with such ostentatious sim- plicity that the verge of eccentricity is continually reached. J ? mm. ,