NARRATIVE OP • V^OYAGES AND EXCURSIONS ON THE E.AST COAST AND IN THE INTERIOR OF CENTRAL AMERICA ; DESCEIBIKG A JOURNEY UP THE RIVER SAN JUAN, AND PASSSAGE ACROSS THE LAKE OF NICARAGUA TO THE CITY OF LEON : fOINlTINS OUT THE ADVANTAGES OP A DIRECT COMMERCIAL INTKBCOUBSK WITH THE NATIVES. BY ORLANDO W. ROBERTS, MANY TEARS A RESIDENT TRADER. WITH NOTES AND OBSERVATIONS BY EDWARD IRVING. EDINBURGH: PRIAVTED FOR CONSTABLE & CO. EDINBURGH '; -AND HURST, CHANCE, & CO. LONDON. 1827. TO HIS EXCELLENCY THE RIGHT HONOURABLE EARL BAT HURST, K. G. THE PROMOTER OP DISCOVERY AKI) ADVOCATE OF THE ABOLITION 07 SLAVERY THIS NARRATIVE IS RESPECTFULLY INSCRIBED BY HIS lordship's MOST OBEDIENT AKD VERY HUMBLE SERVANT, THE AUTHOR. CONTENTS PAGE IPreface xiii CHAPTER L ^Want of Information regard! ng the East Coast, and Intei-ior — Inarras' Imperfect History — Influence of the Romish Church ineffectual in civilizing the Indians — Former compared with their present state —-Progress of the late Revolution — The Author's opportunities of Information 25 CHAPTER ir. Voyage to the Bay of Mandingo — Natives— Trade, &c. Sarsadee — New Caledonia and Scotch Darien Company — San Bias Indians — Their Manners and Customs — Their enmity to the Spaniards — Women — Sookeah Men — Rivers — Forests— Game — Fish, &c Turtle— Tortoise-shel), &c. 33 CHAPTER III. Voyage to Chiriqui Lagoon— Porto Bello— Mosquito Shore — Chrico Mola — Residence there — Sarsapa- rilla— ^Excursions in the Interior— Story of a Gold vi CONTENTS. PAGE Seeker — Hunting party — View of the Atlantic and Pacific — Visit from a Sloop of War — Character, and Customs of the Valientes — Soupa Tree — Ser- pents — Buccaniers — Chilibee, Tiribee, and Blan- CO Indians 62 CHAPTER IV. Kio del Oro— Gold Mine — River Belem — Leave Chi- riqui and Boco del Toro — Tiribee Indians — Blan- cos — Trade at Salt Creek — Matina — Cartagb — Dreadful Earthquake — Turtle Bight — Natural History — Rio Colorado — River and Harbour of San Juan — Indian River — Vanilla Plant — Rama Indians and River — Bluefields Lagoon — Former English Settlements — Bluefields River— Cookra and Woolwa Indians 83 CHAPTER V. Pearl Kays and Lagoon — Oysters — European Set- tiers — Stores — Traders — Climate, Produce — Rio Grande, or Prinzapulko — Indians and Chief Men — Pine Savannahs — Macaws — Soil — Horses — Iron —Captive Indian Boy — Cruel Expeditions against tlie Cookras — Prinzapulko River and Indians — Contracts with the Woolwas' — Tongulas — Captain Tarra — Brown — Return to Pearl Kay Lagoon . 105 CHAPTER VI. Admiral Earnee — Tiibute — King's Houses — To^^a Indians — Para Lagoon — Brancman's Bluff — Sa- vannahs — Deer — Sandy Bay — Conversations with the Indians — Arrival, Reception, and Character of the Mosquito King — Counsel — Music and Musi- cal Instruments — History of Don Carlos and Go- vernor Clementi — Soil and Produce — Marl— Pipe Clay— Journey to Cape Gracias a Dios . . . 124 CHAPTER VIL Cape Gracias a Dios — Old King George, the present King — Education at Jamaica — Bad soil — Har- CONTENTS. vii PAGE Ijour — Great Cape River — Importance of the Cape Origin of the Samboes — Croatch River — Kuka. ri — Spotted Indians — Caratasca Lagoon — Fish and Game — Soil, produce — Crater — Patook River — Horses — Kharibees — Brewers Lagoon — Black River and Lagoon — Old Fort Settlers — Mines- Fertility of the Settlements — Story of Ian Austin 146 CHAPTER VIIL Harbour of San Juan de Nicaragua — Attack by an Independent Cruiser — Taken as a Spy — Trial arwi Escape — Conduct of tine Indians — Ordered to San Carlos — Bongos — The Fort or Battery and En- trances of tlie River — Manatis — Serapiqui — Com- , modore Mitchell's Espedition — Islands — Rapids — Alligators — Arrival Jit the Castle of San Juan — Its present state — Greait Rapid — Former incorrect statements regarding thie river 168 CHAPTER IX. Leave Yott San Juan — Fine timber on the Banks- Village and Fort of Sam Carlos — Proceedings there —Religious Tracts — Depart for Granada — The Lake of Nicaragua — Slan Miguel — The Padrones Orisons — Volcanic Isiland — Land between the Lake and South Sea — Arrival at Granada — Exa- mination and Imprisomment — Base Interpreter — Departure for the City of Leon 189 CHAPTER X. Massaya— Remarkable Strata of Lava between the Lakes of Leon and Nicaragua — Wheel Carriages — Mules, &c. — Monagua — Hospitality of the Cura — Matares — Mama-Toniba — Mountain road and Game — Nagarotta — Pueb>lo Nueva — Plain of Leon — Chain of the Andes — Answer to Baron Hum- boldt — Arrival at Leon — -Its vicinity to the South Sea — Story of English Saiilors — Final examination and acquittal — Don Alllemagne — His valuable Tiii CONTEKTS. PAnE trade — City of Leon — Its Houses, &c. — Provisions —Luxurious mode of living — Urbanity of the Go- vernor 207 CHAPTER XI^ Departure from Leon — Game, &c. — Pueblo Nuevo — Monagua — Political State of the Country — Kindness of Inygoyen — Recross the Lava — Effects of the Eruption — Massaya — Colonel Sacassa — Medicine — Indian Procession — Missionaries — Ar- rival at Granada — Lake and adjacent Country — Earthquakes — Exactions of the Government — A- bundance of Provisions — Voyage to San Carlos, &c 227 CHAPTER XIL Guatemala — Nicaragua — Indians — Population — Hostile Tribes — Lake of Nicaragua — Spanish Posts — Route by Bluefield's River — Journey of Pat- terson — Atlantic and Pacific Canal — Necessity of Foreign Labourers — United States Contract for Cutting a Canal — Gold Mines — Passage down the San Juan — Mosquito King's Letter — Indian Dar- ing Plan of Revenge— Arrival at Prinzapulko— Joy of the Indians 248 CHAPTER XIIL Generous conduct of the Indians — Their account of Lord Nelson's Expedition — Journey to Cape Gra- cias a Dios — Size and value of Mahogany, &c. — Mosquito men— Cruelty of Barras — King's Token — Voyage to Balize — Racon — Visit to Black River — Kharibs and Kharib Bread — Settlements, History and Character of the Khairbees— Poyer Country — Islands of Guanaja — Roatan— Stormy Passage across the Bay of Honduras 264; CONTENTS. ix CHAPTER XIV. PAGE Mosquito Country — Its Fitness for European Settle- ments — Clinnate, Productions, &c. — Former Bri- tish Settlements there — Natives, and necessity for affording them Protection — Disputes regarding the Slosquito Shore — Opinion of Mr Edwards — Dif- liculty of access to the Central States from tlie East Coast — Route by Omoato Guatemala — Leave Balize — Taken by Pirates — Escape to Cuba, and Return to England 280 Appendix 295 ) PREFACE. Mr Roberts, whose Narrative of Voyages and Adventures is now submitted to the public, went to sea at an early period of life. While a youth in the American mer- chant service, he visited many parts of In- dia, China, and the Southern Hemisphere. Afterwards he was employed, in the same part of the world, in the squadron under the command of Sir Edward Pellew, now Lord Exmouth; and subsequently, had the good fortune to bring to England the first valua- ble American ship captured in the South Sea, — dexterously eluding, on that occasion, the pursuit of the American frigate Essex in the Pacific, and baffling, after a long chase in the English Channel, that scourge of the British merchantmen, the True Yankey privateer. Latterly, he was in the com- mand of several valuable merchant ves- sels ; and possesses many documents bear- A XlV PREFACE. ing testimony to his good conduct and abi- lity as a navigator. The reasons which induced him to visit the West Indies, and to remain for several years, among the In- dians on the East Coast of Central Ame- rica, in the capacity of a trader, are deve- loped in the course of the narrative. On returning to his native country Mr Roberts was applied to by many highly re- spectable individuals, proposing, at that speculative period, to carry on certain oper- ations in Central America and on the Is- thmus of Darien, for information regard- ing the present state of that coast, and the dispositions of the native free tribes ; he found, with considerable surprise, that ex- treme ignorance was not only prevalent on these subjects, but that the topography and real state, of the greater part of that coun- try, especially of many of the important places on the Mosquito Shore, the coast of the Isthmus of Darien, and the Interior, which he had recently visited, were scarce- ly known. These circumstances first encouraged him to arrange his materials for the present narrative, which, although in some points deficient, will contribute towards the great mass of valuable information lately diffused regarding the actual state of the New World ; in other respects, it will perhaps not be found unamusing. By his education, and former visits to PREFACE. XV various parts of the world, Mr Roberts hacl not only been divested of many prejudices and feelings, which would have disqualified some Europeans, from associating with In- dians and conforming to their mode of life ; but he had early acquired those ha- bits of observation, and that talent for in- vestigation, which qualified him for giving a fair account of their progress towards a state of civilization. In contemplating the increasing numbers or present state of the Kharibees, and descendants of those British slaves who re- mained on the Mosquito Shore when the English left it, we are enabled to draw infer- ences, very opposite to those of such advo- cates for the continuance of slavery, who assert that, under the present West India system, the majority of the slaves are more happy, and better provided with the means of subsistence, than they would be if gra- dually manumitted, and placed in a state of freedom, dependent only on their own ex- ertions ; for, it appears that the persons first alluded to, are not only increasing in num- bers, but are, by their own industry, amply provided with all the necessaries, and many of the luxuries of life. It is perhaps unnecessary to state, in de- tail, the rapid progress of those discoveries which Columbus had the glory of commenc- ing ; yet it may not be deemed improper, or irrelevant to the subject of the following Xvi PREFACE. narrative, briefly to notice so much of them as relate to the ancient inhabitants of the East Coast of Central America, and the first attempts made by himself and his succes- sors, to subjugate those Indian tribes whose descendents have been so recently visited, and described by the author. Columbus having, in the year 1492, reached some of the Lucays, or Bahama Islands, proceeded to Cuba, where the na- tives gave him such information, as induced him to direct his course towards Haytij (Hispaniola, or St Domingo), at which isl- and he arrived on the 6th December. We may here, however transiently, con- template the delightful picture presented by Columbus's first account of the appear- ance, happy state, and good conduct of the harmless natives ; we could dwell, with plea- sure, on their humane and generous con- duct to that leader and his adventurous band, when in consequence of the wreck of their principal vessel, they were in* volved in misfortune and difficulty. * But * *' As sooh as the Islanders heard of this disaster they crowded to the shore with their Prince Guacanahari at their head. Instead of taking advantage of the distress in v/hich they beheld the Spaniards, to attempt any thing td their detriment, they lamented their misfortune with tears of sincere condolence, — not satisfied with this unavailing expression of their sympathy, they put to sea a number of canoes, and, under the direction of the Spaniards, assisted in saving whatever could be got out of the wreck, and by the united labout' of so many bands, almost every thing of PREFACE. xvil it; is painful to be obliged to turn immedi- aitely to the dark scene which followed, and btehold the sad change, which the arrival 0)f these licentious and rapacious strangers, wvas destined to create among a million of imnocent people ; for in the short space of fiifteen years, they were reduced to a wretcli- e(d remnant, consisting of scarcely sixty tlhousand miserable and heart-broken slaves; amd even these, were continually wasting by habour and misery ; so that, in a few years imore, they found their only refuge in a p)remature grave ! On his second voyage, in 1493, Colum- b)us discovered, what are now called the ILeeward Islands, inhabited by a very dif- ftierent race of men, who fiercely defended tlhemselves, and made daring attacks upon tlheir invaders. The third voyage took place in the year 11498 ; he then discovered the Island now cialled Trinidad, and the Continent of South i^merica; but, after proceeding some dis- vralue was carried ashore. As fast as the goods were land- eed, Guacanahari in person took charge of them. By his carders they were all deposited in one place, and armed ssentinels were posted, who kept the multitude at a dis- tcance in order to prevent them not only from embezzling, hmt from inspecting too curiously what belonged to their gTuests. Next morning this Prince visited Columbus, who was now on board the Nigra, and endeavoured to console hnim for his loss, by offering all that he possessed to repair itt. " — Robertson's Histori/ of America, a2 XVIU PREFACE. tance, along that coast, to the westward, hie bore away for Saint Domingo ; and, it wais not until his last unhappy voyage, in thie year 1502, undertaken in the hope of findl* ing some strait leading to the then undiss* covered South Sea^ that he first exploretd the East Coast, a description of which, antd its inhabitants, is the principal subject oof the following narrative. At Guanaja, an island in the Gulf of Honi- duras, Columbus first had an interview witlh the natives of the Mainland. Proceedintg to Cape Gracias a Dios, he examined thie coast southward from thence to Porto Bello). He attempted to establish a small colomy on the River Belem, but had there to coni- tend not only against a more warlike racee of people than those of Hayti, but also at-* gainst the insubordination of his insolenlt and rapacious followers, and was thuis deprived of the honour of planting the firs5t European settlem.ent on the Continent o>f America. About ten years afterwards, the King o)f Spain having allotted the coast between tht^ Gulf of Darien and Cape de Vela, to Alonscq de Ojeda, and from thence to Cape Graciats a Dios, to Diego de Nicuessa, both theste leaders made preparations for colonizing^ and securing their new possessions, — thte foi-mer supported by a force of three hun^ dred, and the latter by seven hundred and! eighty men. But not being able to makes PREFACE. XlK thhe natives comprehend by what right or tititle a foreign priest could dispose of their ccountry, to a king of whom they knew no- thhing, they not only refused to listen to the SjSpaniards, or to admit them to settle in their ccountry, but, being attacked, they defended thhemselves with such resolute bravery, that) nootwithstanding the most courageous and poersevering efforts, and repeated reinforce- mnentSj the Spaniards, with the loss of half thheir numbers, were compelled to abandon thhe enterprise. Cortes, Pizzaro and Balboa^ ccommanders afterwards so celebrated, were anmong the number of volunteers ; but the fobrmerj destined for a higher and more suc- ceessful undertaking, was compelled by sick*- ntiess to remain at St Domingo. The form Wivhich, according to Herrera, was to be ob- seerved in taking possession of this country, ms too important to be omitted in the pre* sesent work. * After a lapse of above three centuries, atmd the extirpation or conquest, of nearly tithe whole of the ancient population^ it is ntiot only deeply interesting in a physiologic Cfcal point of view, but matter of exultation tao every liberal mind, to mark the result of tlthis determined and successful resistance; aand we still trace with satisfaction, in the uundegenerated Sar> Bias men, Valientes, aarid other free Indians of the present day, tithe same feelings auid sentiments of inde- * TNote., No. 1. XX PREFACE. pendence which animated their courageous ancestors. Farther to the northward we find, in Clementi, a specimen of the ancient Cazique, and in his hill-people, a modifica- tion of the more mild and peaceable of the ancient tribes. We can also trace, al- though under greater modifications, a rem- nant of the fierce natives of the Leeward Islands, in the resolute free Kharibees f of the Bay of Honduras, and Mosquito Shore, much softened down however, by their in- tercourse with Europeans, and by a slight intermixture with negroes. Balboa, by his successful expedition across the Isthmus of Darien, in the year 1512, attracted a great number of adven- turers to that part of the continent, under the command of Pedrarias, who, being either unwilling, or unable, to restrain them from the most cruel and tyrannical exac- tions, the natives inhabiting the country to- wards the Lake of Nicaragua were al- most totally extirpated; and the removal, shortly afterwards, of the Spaniards from Santa Maria on the Gulf of Darien to Pa- nama on the side of the Pacific, complet- ed the subjugation of most of the neigh- bouring tribes, and opened the way, not only for the future conquerors of Peru, but also for the discovery of the provinces of Nicaragua by Davila in 1522, and the sub- + Caraib^ in their original language, is said to signify " warlike people. " rnEFAcK. xxi sequent foundation of the cities of Cartagoj heorii Nicaragua and Granjlda* Cortes having, in the mean time, conquered Mexi- co, sentDe Oli and others, in 1523, to what is now denominated the province of Hondu- ras ; and, during the same year, he commis- sioned Pedro Alvarado, with considerable forces to take possession of Guatemala; so that the Indians of the Central States, were at once assailed both from the north and south. Alvarado) a bra,ve, politic^ and indefatl- fable soldier, after subduing the natives of 'egnantepecj and completing the conquest of Soconusco and Ponala^ arrived in the territory of Quichee ; and, after many des^ perate battles with the natives — the Rachir quelsj and other powerful and warlike na- tions-^founded the city of Guatemala in the year 15S4.. To enter into an account of the brave defence made by many of these nations^ and to trace the progress of the Spanish arms, would lead us into details which, although possessing great interest, are rather foreign to the subject of the following narrative. We must therefore rest contented by observingj that as the Spaniards approached the Mos- quito Shore, and the mountainous country between that coast and the Pacific, the de* termined resistance of the natives, and their aversion to the Spenish yoke, seems to have increased* In the province of Honduras, nearly the wholt. of which is still possessed XXll PREFACE. by the aborigines, the Caziques Copan Calel in 1530, and Lempira in 1536, seem to have defended themselves with a courage and conduct which would have done honour to more enlightened warriors ; and although they ultimately submitted, many of their subjects, as well as those, who had been some time before, driven from St Salvador, by Estete and other sanguinary and avaricious Spanish commanders, sought refuge in the mountains, and in the labyrinths of the coast, handing down to their posterity, that hatred of the Spanish name, which is so carefully cherished even at the present day. The Spaniards seem, from this period, to have given up the idea of pushing their con- quests in that quarter ; but, in the year 1608, according to the historian Vasques, attempts were made, by missionaries, to convert and bring the Indians on the north and east coast to acknowledge the Spanish yoke. These missionaries sought the tribes living among the mountains on the upper part of the Blue- fields River, and were at first kindly re- ceived; but, afterwards, narrowly escaped to Guatemala with their lives. A second expedition, in 1612, escorted by 25 soldiers, was sacrificed in the same quarter by these unruly Neophytes. In the year 1623, other missionaries visited the country farther to the northward, and, at first, seem to have had hopes of success ; but, ultimately, they also, fell a sacrifice to their PBEFACE. XXin zeal. These seem to be the last serious attempts of the Spaniards, in that quarter, to subjugate the free natives, whose early in- tercourse with the English and other Euro- peans, especially the Buccaniers, continually at war with the Spaniards, aided them in maintaining their independence. The friend- ly intercourse which continued to subsist during the period that the British had set- tlements on their coast, has strengthened their good opinion, and taught them to rely on us for that protection which it is hoped the British Government will promptly ex- tend to them, should any future emergency render our interference necessary for their preservation. EDWARD IRVING. London, April 1827. f I 1 VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES ON THE EAST COAST, AND IN THE INTERIOR OF CENTRAL AMERICA. CHAPTER I. WANT OF INFORMATION REGARDING THE EAST COAST, AND INTERIOa INARRAs' IMPERFECT IHSTORV INFLUENCE OF THE ROMISH CHURCH INEFFECTUAL IN CIVILIZING THE INDIANS — FORMER COMPARED WITH THEIK PRESENT STATE PROGRESS OF THE LATE REVOLUTION THE author's OPPORTUNITIES OF INFORMATION. Althougb much valuable information has late- ly appeared relative to South America, no Eu- ropean traveller lias, since the Spanish American revolution, given any account of the country si- tuated between Mexico and Colombia, forming the B 26 INARRAS' HISTORY. Jndimi territory, and the United Protmwes of Central America, nor of the numerous tribes of free Indians in that part of the world, who continue to detest the Spanish name, and will not admit one of that nation to settle among them. This may in some measure be attri- buted to the wilful silence of the West Indian traders, who are little inclined to spread informa- tion likely to produce competitors for a share of their lucrative trade ; and partly to the want of free access from the East Coast to the interior. It may also be partly owing to some remains of the old Spanish jealousy of strangers — to the compa- ratively late period at which the Central Provinces ventured to declare their independence, and the dif- ficulties incident to the first formation of a new govemment ; but, however this may be, we are still obliged to look for information regarding this part of Amej ica to the Buccaneers of some cen- turies past. A "Statistical and Commercial History of Gua- temala " has indeed appeared, * translated from the Spanish of Don Domingo Inarras, a native of New Guatemala ; but, although that work con- tains much valuable information, it is, for the most part, a compilation of ancient records, and, con- sequently, not of a nature to satisfy the British public ; or, what in this country is always an im- portant point, to guide commercial men in extend- ing their relations. Moreover, Inarras does not «eem to know any thing of the Lake of Nicara- irua, or the Rio de San Juan ; or to have the least iinowledge of the Indian country and settlements * Translated by Lieut. Bailey, 11, N. Printed for Hearne, London, 1823. PRESEXT CONDITION OF THE INI>IANS. 27 Oil the East Coast, although these occupy ahove one half of Central America. It has been considered by many, especially by those attached to the Romish church, that the ex- ertions of the Catholic clergy, for Immanizing the Indians of Central America, have been eminently successful ; and that, bringing them within the pale of the church, has ameliorated their condition, ex- panf discontent appeared in Venezuela ; and the fown - dation of the Spanish American revolution Wats established there, so early as about the year 1797. OF INFORMATION, &C. 31 Tlie expedition of the unfortunate Miranda, took place in 1806, and a sanguinary war raged in 1816, while, at the same time, Mexico had become the Bcerne of ferocious contests ; yet the southern part of tine kingdom or domain of Guatemala, remain- ed comparatively tranquil, until a much later period ; for, it will be perceived in the course of the following narrative, that, so late as the year 1822, when I crossed the Lake of Nicai-agua to the city of Leon, the Spanish authorities were, notwithstanding the declaration of independence, and various revolutionary movements in the city of Gruatemala in 1820, still in undisturbed posses- sion of the government of that part of Central A- meriica ; yet it was evident, that the mass of the popmlation there, was adverse to the continuance of tliie Spanish yoke, and they have since joined in throwing it off. Sio many writers on the subject of America an(d fthe West Indies, have given minute and scien- tifi(c descriptions, of the various plants, bu'ds and aniinnals, found in that part of the world, that even if I had been capable of entering into proper de- taiils on the subject, I should only have wearied thes jpatience of the general reader, without grati- fyimjg the lover of natui-al history, by an exact account of ntew productions. I shall, therefore, notice only sutchi of the plants, animals, and fishes, as appear- ed t(0 be of importance, either in a commercial or soimie other point of view. Im speaking of the residences of the natives, I shtalll, according to the custom prevalent on the Eaasit Coast, and in the West Indies, use, in the coiuu'se of the following narrative, the terms settle- memtt and plantation, although not, perhaps, the 33 1 CHAPTER II. VOYAGE TO THE BAY OF MANDINGO — NATIVES TJRADE, &C SARSADEE — NEW CALEDONIA AN» SCOTCH DAHIEN COMPANY — SAN BLAS INDnANS — THEIU MANNERS AND CUSTOMS THEIR ENMITY TO THE SPANIARDS WOMEN — SOOKEAII MEN RIVERS — FORESTS — GAME — • riSH, &C. — TURTLE' — TORTOISE-SHELL, &C. A RiRiviNG at Kingston, Jamaica, in the early part of tlhe year 1816, 1 shortly afterwards obtained the ccmimand of a brig of about one hundred and sixty tomsi burthen, with an assorted cargo of no gi'eat va,luie, but suitable to the Indian trade. We left Port Royal, Jamaica, in the month of Ju- ly., and, on the fourth day, we saw the high land at tlhe back of the Bay of Mandingo, between P(orto Bello and the Gulf of Darien. Next morn- inig,, we anchored on the lee-side of one of the nu- mteirous kays, that at-e off its entrance, and we 8hio)rtly perceived a canoe, with two Indians, com- inig cautiously round the point. On our hoisting thie British ensign, they approached the brig, and haiilled us ; to which my assistant, who understood thieiir language, rt^plied, that we were English tra- dterrs from Jamaica. On being made acquainted writth the pbject of our voyage, they recommended VOYAGE TO THE US to procetMl, in the first instance, to Great Playone River, as the most commodioua place for loading the brig, and procuring a cargo with the greatest despatch. They shortly left ns, but re- turned in the evening, accompanied by several ca- noes and dories, * from the shore, bringing plan- tains, bananas, cocoa-nuts, cassava, hogs, fowls, and turtle ; in exchange for which, we gave them fish-hooks, small glass beads, Dutch looking-glass- es, salt, and other articles, which, except to them, were of very trifiing value. Our crew, in the mean time, put out their fishing-lines, and soon caught plenty of groupers, red and silver snappers, stone bass, and a variety of other fish, so that we had abundance of excellent provisions. Having thus apprised the Indians of our arrival on the coast, we next day got under weigh, and ran down the inner passage, between the small kays or islands, and the mainland. This passage is full of coral rocks and reefs, but the water is so clear, that they are easily seen and avoided in the day- time, by keeping a man stationed at the mast-head, on the look out, to give warning of the vessel's ap - proach to them. At night, however, this inner passage, the whole distance from Mandingo to Caret, is totally impracticable. Between tliese points, are the mouths of many considerable rivers, the sources of which, are alto- gether unknown, even to the Spaniards, being si- tuated in the heart of a country, occupied by hos- tile tribes of Indians, who have always maintained their independence. Some of tliese rivers are said to rise within a short distance of the Pacific Oc can, • A kind of large boat, made out of the trunk of a tree. BAY OF MANDINGf). 35 but no authentic survey of any of them, has yet been made. In the evening, we came to an anchor oflf the river Daablo ; and, according to custom, fired a gun as a signal to tlie Indians, whose chief settlements ai'e situated on the banks of the rivers, a consider- able way up from the sea. The report of even a six-pounder on this coast, is heard an immense way up the country ; but it is only the acute ear of an Indian, that can distinguish between its reverbera- tions among the mountains, and the more frequent sound of distant thunder. On hearing this signal- gun, canoes are immediately despatclied, for the purpose of ascertaining the object of such a visit. Sometimes they aiTive the same evening, but at all times not later than next morning. Numbers of the Indians came off to the brig next morning, and expressed much satisfaction at seeing a vessel of the Clara's unusual size, visiting tJieir coast for tlie purposes of trade. We pro- ceeded, by their recommendation, to Needle Kay, being the most eligible place for collecting fustic, which we intended should be the most bulky, although the least valuable part of our cargo. We were shortly visited by the chiefs, and by the Sookeah man, priest, or conjurer, of the great and little Playone tribes, who promised us all the as- sistance in their power. By their advice we hired a few Indians, who very expeditiously erect- ed a temporary house for us, on the kay, in which we had more room to display our commo- dities to advantage, than we could have had in the vessel. In two or three days, we landed and ar- rajiged the goods we had to offer, cleared a spot for the reception of fustic, which the Indians had 36 TRADE WITH THE NATIVES. gone to collect at their different settlements, and every thing augured favourably for the success of our voyage. The Indians, shortly began to arrive from all parts of the coast, with fustic, in canoep and dories ; some of them brought from five hun- dred weight, up to three, four or five tons, but none of them exceeding the latter quantity. In exchange, we gave them ravenduck, osnaburg, checks, blue baftas, and other manufactured goods — mosschettes, (or G. R. cutlass-blades), and a va- riety of toys and small articles, adapted to this trade, for which articles, in barter, an enormous price was obtained. Hogs, fowls, and an abund- ant variety of provisions and fmits, were brought from various rivers, and sold to us at a very trifling consideration. The hogs, I may here remark, were turned loose on the kay, during the day- time, to seek for food ; but, at night, either firom liabit, or an instinctive fear of wild beasts, they in- variably kept crowded together, in a body, close to our house. Being desirous of procuring, as much toitoivse- shell and cocoa as possible, we fitted out two large boats, by the Spaniards called bongos, for an ex- cursion along the coast, putting a few goods on board, and procuring the assistance of an Indian trader, who pai'tially understood the English lan- guage. Being anxious to become acquainted with the coast, as far as I safely could, I took charge of this expedition : we slept the first night, at a small settlement, on the banks of the river Banana, where we bartered some trifling articles for tortoise- shell. From thence, we proceeded to the river Mosquito, where there is a considerable settlement of Indians ; but here, we could do no business, &b THE DARIEN COMPANY. 37 tliey had agreed to keep tlie whole of the tortoise- shell, which is of the finest quality, for the esta- blished traders in the employment of Shepherd and Humphries of Jamaica, who have had persons stationed at this place, for some yeare past. The Indians here, are particularly favourable to the English, and have long adopted the British flag ; frr)m the month of April to October, which is the fishing season, it is regularly hoisted every morning, at the house of the chief or liead man. From Banana we proceeded, farther along the coast, towards the Gulf of Darien, to Sarsadee, another considerable station of the Indians, where we purchased a few hundred weights of tortoise- shell, and a quantity of cocoa. The natives here, raise abundance of plantains, bananas, maize, cassava, and all the other productions of this prolific climate ; — abundance of the finest green turtle are caught close to the settlement ; vessels, trading to San Bias, also find here an excellent harbour, and a greater variety of refreshments than they can pos- sibly consume. We next visited New Caledonia, the site of the settlement attempted to be formed, by the famous Scotch Darien Company, in the years 1698 and 1699. The ruins of the fort and houses, are still very visible ; the harbour is excellent, and there seems to be no want of provisions in the country, in the rivers, and in the sea. Had this magnificent project been properly seconded, or not injudiciously opposed, by the English nation and King William's Dutch subjects, the result might, at the present day, in spite of the opposition of Spain, have been glorious, to England, eclipsing c 38 THE DARIEN COMPANY. the splendour of the other gi'eat schemes of the Bank of England and the East India Company, also established about that time ; — whose dii-ectors were eminently indebted to its projector, the ill- requited Patterson, for many of those ideas, in which have originated, the present prosperity and power, of those great national corporations. As the particulars of this extraordinary but un- fortunate man's favourite scheme, are now almost forgotten, it may not be improper, in this narrative, to give a brief sketch of it, taken principally from the writings of an author who had access to the papers of the Company, " some of which ai'e pre- served in the Advocates Library in Edinburgh, and others in the Exchequer there ; and to the family papers, of many who were the chief actors in the Company's affairs. " * Patterson, the son of a farmer in Dumfries- shire in Scotland, was educated for the church, and first visited the Western world under pretence of converting the Indians ; he was acquainted with Wafer and Danipier, but got most of his informa- tion from the old Buccaneers. At Acta, between Porto-Bello and Carthagena, towards the Gulf of Darien, he found a natural harbour, capable of containing a large fleet, and having a promontory commanding its entrance. At first, Patterson of- fered his plans to merchants in London, who dis- couraged him ; afterwards to others on the conti- nent of Europe, who also treated him illiberally. * Dalrymple, Memoirs of liis own times. The reader will find, also, many interesling particulars regarding this ill-fated expedition, in a work lately edited by the Rev. Dr M'Cric, intituled " Memoirs of Mr William Veitch and George Brysson, written by themselves, &c. Edinburgh, 1825, 8 vo, pp. 222—251 THE DARIEX COMPANY. 80 Tilt! Elector of Braiidenburgh listened to him, but afterwards would do nothing. At last the san- guine and energetic Fletcher of Salton, brought him forward, and introduced him to the Marquis of Tweeddale. The Master of Stair and Mr John- ston, the two secretaries of State, for Scotland, aho patronized him ; and, through the means of the friends thus procured, a statute of Parliament was passed, in the year 1695, and in terms thereof, a charter from the crown obtained, for creat- ing a trading company to Africa and the New World, granting " power to plant colonies and build forts, with consent of the inhabitants, in places not possessed by any European nations. " A subscription opened, and four hundred tliou- sand pounds, a great sum at that period, was in- stantly subscribed. Patterson's project, which had been timidly considered " by people in pri- vate, filled them with hope when it came to them on the wings of public fame. " * Two or three respectable individuals being deputed to receive subscriptions in England, and on the Continent — the English subscribed 300,000/., and the Dutch and Hamburghers 200,000/. more. Patterson was to have received for his remuneration two per cent, on the stock, and three per cent, on the pro- fits ; but when he saw the magnitude of the sub- scription, in the generous spirit which belongs to genius, he gave a free discharge of his claims. In the meantime the jealousy of trade, " which has done more mischief to the trade of England than all other causes put together, " created an alarm in England; and Pai'liament, without any * Dalrymple's Memoirs. 40 THE DARIEN COMPANY. conHideratioii, petitioned the King against it, on the 13tli December 1695, as detrimental to the new East India Company. No committee of Par- liament, or inquiry, was instituted ; tlie King was induced to set his face against it, and the English and Hamburghers immediately withdrew their sub- scriptions. The Scotch, however, persevered, and boldly defended their rights. They built six sliips in Holland, of from thirty-six to sixty guns each — and on the 26th July 1698, twelve htmdred men sailed from Leith in five stout ships ; and al- though these men could have forcibly gone from the northmost part of Mexico to the southmost of Chili, " they used no force with the natives, but, in all their transactions, acted fairly and honour- ably in every respect ; and their first act, which; originated in the advice of Patterson, was to pro- claim freedom of trade and religion to all nations ! The Colonists, in their first letter to the Coun- cil of Directors, represent, that " As to the country, we find it very healthy; for althougli we arrived here in the rainy season, from Avhich we had little or no shelter for several weeks together, and many sick among us, yet they are so far recovered, and in so good a state of health, as could hardly be expect- ed any where among such a number of men to- gether. " A variety of papers of the Company, in the Advocates Libraiy, prove that the soil was good, the climate healthy, and the passage from sea to sea not difficult. The colonists lingered eight months, looking in vain for that atssistance from Scotland, which the difficulties thrown in the way of the Company's operations prevented being sent ; and falling short THE DARIEN COMPANY. 41 of provisions, altJiough the Indians, by liunting and fishing for them, generously gave them that tem- porary relief which fellow Britons refused, almoet all of them quitted the settlement. In the mean time, the active enmity of the Spaniards, and other enemies of the Company, provoked the Scotch to send out a reinforcement of thirteen hundred men ; but this expedition was hastily got up, and ill pi-ovisioned. They arrived at different times, broken in health, and dispirited at the situation in which they found the settle- ment ; to add to their misfortunes, it has been said, that certain gloomy and bigoted preachers exhausted the spirits of the people, and spread divisions and discontent amongst them. In the mean time, the naost active and inveterate enmity and opposition to the Company continued to show itself in England. The last party from Scotland that joined the second colony, after it had been three months set- tled, was Captain Campbell of Finab, with a com- pany of the people of his own estate, whom he had commanded in Flanders. This brave gentle- man marched to Fubucantee the second day after his arrival, and, with two hundred men, attacked and defeated, witli great slaughter, a Spanish force of sixteen hundred men, which had been collected to destroy the colony. On the fifth day he re- turned to the fort with very little loss, but found eleven Spanish ships blockading the harbour, their troops landed, and almost all hope of help or pro- visions cut off. He stood a siege of six weeks, till the enemy, by their approaches, cut off his wells ; and the garrison, after melting even their G 2 42 SAN BLAS. pewter dinlies into bullets, were forced to capitu- late on honourable terms. Many misfortunes be- fel them on their way home ; the Spaniards siiovv- ed them generous kindness, while the English treated them with the most inveterate enmity aiid malice. The whole were completely dispersed, and only Captain Campbell's, and another small shij), with about thirty men of the whole colony, returned to Scotland, where they found Patterson labouring for the reestablishment of the Company's attairs. He survived many years in Scotland, pitied and neglected, but always respected. England, by the imprudence of causing the ruin of that settlement, lost the opportunity of securing to herself, greater commercial power, than will pro- bably ever again present itself, to any nation what- soever. There are times, when schemes the most visionaryj may succeed ; and if Spain and England had, at that time, joined in opening a passage through the Isthmus of Darien, the situation of the former, might at the present day, have been very different ; and the efforts of these ill-inforui- ed and inadequate companies, which have recent-, ly been got up, in various quaiters, for the pur- pose of effecting a junction canal, between the two great oceans, would have been rendered iun- necessary ; effbrts which now can hardly succeted, unless heartily seconded, and powerfully patronizied, by all the leading nations of Europe and America. Having made several later voyages to San B ias in the Clara, I liad good opportunity of inquiring into the manners and customs of the natives of this Isthmus, who appear to be a distinct race of people from the Valiente and other Indians of ithc SAN BLAS INDIANS. 43 Rio Beling, Clirico Mola, Chiriqui, and other places to the northward. They are much shorter in stature, few of them exceeding- five feet two or three inches in height ; but they have full chests, broad shoulders, and are exceedingly active ; their foreheads are low, and rather flat ; their eyes small, and generally of a black or dark brown colour ; their cheek bones broad and full ; the lips not very thick. They suffer the hair on their heads, which is coarse, black, and often worn tied behind the head, or in queue, to grow to a great length ; but they carefully eradicate it from all other parts of the body. The colour of theii* skin is a dusky yellow, peculiar to the inhabitants of this part of America. There are some instances of Albinos be- ing produced amongst them ; and in one of my voy- ages to the Darien Gulf, I saw, at the River Coco, a child of about five years or " seasons, " old, per- fectly white, but without any apparent defect in its sight, as the Albinos are generally represented to have. The San Bias men are an active hardy race of people, extremely jealous of their indepen- dence, which they have hitherto strenuously main- tained ; and, what is not very common among the other Indians of South America, they are fond and careful of their women. Some of these ladies accompanied tlieir chiefs on board the vessel. They were clothed in wrappers of blue baftas, or strip- ped cotton of their own manufacture, reaching from the breast to a little lower than the calf of the leg. They wore a profusion of small glass bea(Js round their ankles, forming a band of from two to three and a half inches deep, and similar bands or bracelets were worked round the wrists. Theiir ears were pierced, as well as the cartilage bf 44 SAN BI,AS INDIANS. the nose, in which they wore rings of gold or sil- ver ; the ear-rings principally supplied hy the Ja- maica traders — the nose jewels seem to be of their own manufacture, being a thick ring of gold in the form of an obtuse triangle, about three quar- ters of an inch in circumference. On their necks, they wore an immense quantity of fine seed beads of lively colours, and necklaces of red coral. Some of those worn by the chiefmens wives, would alone weigh several pounds. Their hair, which is very long and black, was made up not inelegantly, and fastened on the top of the head with a sort of bod- kin made of tortoise-sheU, or hard wood. Their complexion is much clearer and brighter than that of the men. Over the head was thrown a piece of blue bafta or sahempore, complete- ly covering the back, breasts, and one side of the face. Altogether, the deportment of these women was extremely modest, diffident, and ami- able. Their husbands are exceedingly jealous of sti'angers, and that is said to be one of their reasons for refusing to allow Europeans to settle on the mainland. Their trading intercourse is always carried on at one of the numerous kays or islands on the coast, selected at the time for that purpose. Perhaps this custom, may in some measure be ow- ing to the necessity which they are under, of guard- ing with great vigilance, against their neighbours the Spaniards, to whom they bear the most in- veterate enmity. No Spanish v'essel ever fell in- to their power, whose crew was jermitted to escape, when any of them have the misfortune to suffer shipwreck on this part of the coist, — the massacre of the crew is, under every circumstance, the ine- vitable consequence. During one of my subse- 1 RIVERS, FORESTS, GAME. 45 quent trading voyages to this quarter, a fine Spa- nish copper-bottomed schooner, of about one hun- dred and twenty tons burden, laden with wine, rice, maize, sugar, bricks, and jerked beef, ran a- grouud during the night, on a reef of rocks, a Httle to tlie north-east of the gi'eat Playone river. The crew, knowing the inevitable consequence of be- ing discovered in the morning, took to their boats during the night, and reached Porto Bello. The vessel being strong, and substantially built, beat fairly over the reef, without suffering much da- mage. The Indians, immediately on discovering the accident, boarded and plundered her, cuttinij away the masts, bowsprit, &c., for the mere pm*- pose of securing the iron works, by rendering her useless. They regretted that the crew had made their escape. The liull of the vessel was after- wards removed to Needle Kay, and I used it as a hulk, by which to heave down a vessel, under my command. It is to be regretted that this part of the Isth- mus is still so little known: I have been assured by many intelligent Indians, worthy of confidence, that one of the rivers on which they are settled, has its source in a kind of lake, or lagoon, within only about eight miUis of the Pacific. The forests of San Bias, produco some very valuable woods, amongst which may be enumerated fustic, cedar, irbnwood, ebony, braziHetto, lancewood, spars, and a variety of hard wo«»tis^ well adapted for the use of cabinetmakers, but hitherto very little known,' The interior abound^ game of various descrip- tions, amongst which are the tapir, or mountain cow, the waree, pecciuy, giboonite, Indian coney, antelope, armadiUo> iu^j others; also currassow. 46 lIAWICr.P.IIX TURTI.F. guam, coquericot, partridge, and a great variety of other birds. No rivers or coast in the world can produce a greater variety of excellent fish, or finer turtle ; and the quantity seems inexhaustible. Cocoa- nut trees are never cut down, nor destroyed by the Indians of San Bias ; and are so abundant on all the kays, that the fruit is esteemed of little value, except on account of the oil, which the na- tives extract and use for dressing their hair, burn- ing in lamps, and other purposes. Any quantity of these nuts, may be procured at a veiy trifling ex- pense. The inhabitants of tliis part of the coast, are careful to preserve the hawksbill turtle, as much as they possibly can. They never destroy its eggs, and have a singular, but cruel method, of taking the shell from its back, without killing the ani- mal, as is done by the other tribes. They collect a quantity of dry gi-ass, or leaves, with which they cover the creature's back, and then setting the stuff on fire, the heat causes the shell on the back to separate at the joints. A large knife is then insinuated horizontally, and the pieces are gradu- ally lifted from the back, care being taken, not to injure the shell by two much heat, nor to force it off, till the heat has fully prepared it for separation. The turtle is held down by an Indian during this cruel operation, and afterwards suffered to escape ; but great numbers of them, reduced to this helpless state, fall a prey to the numerous shai-ks on the coast. There have been many in- stances, however, of turtle being afterwards caught, which had undergone the process, and the shell, subsequently formed, has, instead of thirteen pieces, tiie usual number, been in one piece only. INDIAN MANMER OF i'lSHlSG. 47 Traders, who are not judges of fustic, are often clieated, by having a kind of spurious, or bastard wood without dye, imposed upon them ; and tliey themselves too often deteriorate the quality of the genuine wood, by immersing it, during their stay, in salt water, to increase its weight. These prac- tices, together with the circumstance, that a great quantity of inferior wood is cut in low, swampy places, has depreciated the character of that which is collected here ; but I am perfectly satisfied, that the fustic of the high land of the Isthmus, is as valuable as that of Cuba, Jamaica, or any other place whatsoever. The natives are excellent hunters and strikera of fish. One of their methods of fishing is rather singular. The water on their coasts being very clear, they can easily see tlie fish basking, or swim- ming near the surface, or in the shallow places ; and they kill considerable numbers, by following them in canoes, and shooting them with arrows. The women and children plant and cultivate In- dian corn, cassava, plantain, and other provisions, the mens task being to cut down wood, prepare it for sale, or other purposes, and to clear ground for plantations. They are not so much addicted to spirituous liquors as some of the other Indians of the coast ; and they use their own chicka, or li- quor made from corn, cassava, and plantains, iu preference to rum. They have in general but one wife, although there are some among them who, according to tlieir inclination and ability to main- tain them, liave four or five. Their houses are constructed at a isliort distance from each other. Every wife has, in general, a separate house or hut and they live on frieudly terms with their neigh 48 SOOKEAH MEN OR PRIESTS. hours. The husband usually takes up his resi- dence with the eldest, who considers it her duty to set the others a good example, and main- tain a friendly communication in the family, by zealously directing their attention to his comfort and convenience. Sometimes although not of- ten, they are all kept in one house, except during an advanced period of pregnancy, con- finement, or suckling their children, at which season they invariably live by themselves. At the expected time, the woman, as is customary with most Indian tribes, retires to a hut built in the* woods, at a distance from the rest of the family. There, she remains some time assisted by sonie aged female relation, wlio is closely secluded witli her. The period of travail is short, compared to what is generally experienced in civilized life ; and previous to returning to their usual intercourse with the family, a sort of public lustration of them- selves and offspring takes place. The persons of greatest consequence, next to the principal chiefs, are the Sookeah-men, who are both physicians and priests. These persons, are supposed to liold communication with an invisible agent, or great spirit, and to be empowered, through its means, to foretel events. They have acquired a knowledge of the medicinal virtues of some plants, and are thereby enabled to cure wounds, and also some of the disorders incident to the cli- mate. They are, consequently, held in much esteem and veneration, by the more ignorant natives. Pre- vious to being received as professed sookeahs, they are secluded, some times for montlis, in the woods, without, as is said, holding the least com- munication with any one; and here it is that SOOKBAH MEK. 49 tliey are alleged to have intercourse with the spirit alluded to. They are deep, shrewd, and compa- ratively intelligent men, and, having once acquired an ascendancy at home, their fame soon extends to the neighbouring tribes. I have often heard, and have no doubt what- ever of the fact, tliat they have been known to dance, in a state of nudity, in the middle of a large fire, the flames having little or no effect on their body ; and they generally do this until the fire is extinguished. The effects of the fire is I'e- sisted by some powerful antidote, extracted from vegetable substances, tlie preparation of which is only known to the superior sookeahs. All their knowledge, however, has been insuf- ficient to contend with the diseases introduced by Europeans, many of the natives having been car- ried off by the small-pox, measles, and other com- plaints for which they know no cure, and by which their numbers have been greatly reduced. On the first appearance of the measles or small-pox, which have proved as destructive to these poor Indians as the plague has been to the inhabitants of other quarters of the globe, they abandon their settle- ments, and fly to some of the numerous kays on the coast for the benefit of free air ; on one of these the infected are carefully secluded, and shun- ned, until they are free from the disease ; — death however generally puts an end to their sufferings. The Mosquito-men have repeatedly attempted to acquire an ascendancy over the San Bias Indians, and much blood, in consequence, has been shed. The last expedition against the latter, took place about twenty years ago. It consisted of about D 2 50 CARET, three hundied men, who were nearly all c\it oflP in the different engagements that took place in the disadvantageous positions into which they were enticed. Very few of the assailants returned to their own country ; and it is, therefore, not likely that any similai- attempt will again be made from the Mosquito-shore. How far it may be the policy of the new Go- vernments of South America to endeavour to con- ciliate these and other free and independent tribes, remains to be seen ; but, judging from some of the recent decrees of Colombia, it is much to be feared their value is not justly appreciated. By resti-ic- tions imposed on their trade, and otherwise, they may continue to regard the Colombians as no bet- ter than Spaniards ; and if so, the consequences cannot but be injurious to both parties. Their country is naturally so strong, and the lagoons and hai-bours so very intricate, that contrabandists, pri- vateers, or pii-ates, — if on friendly terms with the IndianB — can always find shelter ; and the trade to Carthagena, Porto Bello, &c. may, consequent- ly, at any time meet with interruption and injury. This part of the Isthmus of Darien presents a fine- field for the researches of the industrious and sci- entific traveller ; and, no doubt, many very im- portant discoveries, botanical, mineralogical, and otherwise, remain to be made by those who have inclination and ability to explore it. To return to our commercial operations — Hav- ing left New Caledonia, we proceeded to Caret,' where we disposed of the last of our goods, in barter for cocoa, with which we completed the cai-go of the two Bongos, and came back in safety; to the vessel, at Needle Kay. During our ah- RETURN TO JAMAICA. 51 sence, the trader had maintained tlie most fi-iendly correspondence with the natives, and had collected about one hundred tons of fustic, besides other more valuable produce, sufficient for a return cargo, with which we safely arrived in Jamaica, after an absence of about nine weeks. In my subsequent voyages to this coast, I al- ways found the Indians anxious and willing to pro- mote the success of the vessels I commanded. In general, they became much attached to those who visit them repeatedly. Every succeeding voyage improves their friendship, and desire to encourage the commercial interests of their country, so far as their ignorance and inexperience will allow them to judge of it. 52 CHAPTER III. VOYAGE TO CIIIRIQUI LAGOON — PORTO BELLO — MOSQUITO SHORE CHRICO MOLA RESI- DENCE THERE SARSA PARILLA — EXCURSIONS IN THE INTERIOR — STORY, OF A GOLD SEEKER HUNTING PARTY' — VIEW OF THE ATLANTIC AND PACIFIC VISIT FROM A SLOOP OF WAR — CHARACTER, AND CUSTOMS OF THE VALI- ENTES SOUPA TREE SERPENTS — ^ BUCCA- MERS — CHILIBEE, TIRIBEE, AND BLANCO INDIANS. In the year 1817, my voyages to San Bias were inteiTupted by severe indisposition, which reduced me to a state of great debility. When convales- cent, I accepted the offer of a friend, to accom- pany him on a general trading voyage to the Bight of Mandingo, and different parts of the Mosquito Shore. His object was to lodge supplies of goods, with his agents, at various trading depots ; and to bring away from them, such quantities of fustic, tortoise-shell, sarsaparilla, cocoa, &c. as they had collected ; afterwards, to sell the remainder of his dry goods, to the Spaniards at Codec, Gold Hiver, PORTO BELLO. ,^3 Matina, and at the River San Juan de Nicai'agna, for specie and gold dust. We accordingly pro- ceeded to the coast of San Bias, and transacted business at New Caledonia, the River Mosquito, Sarsadee, and the Bight of Mandingo, — receiving considerable quantities of tortoise-shell, cocoa, and other valuable produce. Returning from the coast of San Bias, we passed Porto Bello, * and pro- ceeded to Chiriqui Lagoon ; which, although so far to the southward, is considered part of the Mosquito Shore, under the jurisdiction of the Mosquito King ; who, notwithstanding that the Spaniai'ds consider it a part of their province of Veragua, annually sends his admiral to collect tri- bute from the natives. Veragua joins Costa Rica, a few miles to the westward of Boco del Toro, or the Bahia del Amirante. Costa Rica extends to Punta del Gordo, which is a short distance to the northward of the Rio de San Juan ; and, may be considered, the boundary of the real, and nomi- nal, Spanish possessions on that part of the coast. At Point de Gordo, the Mosquito shore proper may be said to commence ; and we here meet with the small independent tribe of Indians called the Ramas. From thence to Cape Gracias a Dios, where the Mosquito King principally re- sides, the coast lies nearly north and south, a dis- tance of about two hundred and twenty miles. From Cape Gracias a Dios, the shore extends nearly north-west and by west, to the River Pa- took ; and the distance is about one hundred miles. From thence to little Roman river, it stretches * See Note II. D 2 54 , CHIRIQUI LAGOON. to tlie west, about ninety miles ; forming a asitea boar■ remain for the recovery of my health — beconnme acquainted with the manners and customs of tllhiat tribe, and open a trade with the Indians in tttlhe interior of the country. Having selected, and hired, three large canico>es from those which were assembled round the v/fees- sel, we loaded them with goods to the value of about three hundred pounds ; and, at noon, set th up to the first rapid ; a distance of about tweiillve miles. At this rapid the land rises high on each sitdJIe ; and, up to the settlement, the river is so full I of falls, rocks, and rapids, that it would be totfaiUly impossible for persons, unaccustomed to such placcwes, to ascend even in the lightest canoes. — The JUn- WHYKEE TARRA. 55 diaiaans are obliged in the ascent, frequently to lay asiciide their paddles and use poles ; — and at some plataaces even to haul their canoes, over the rapids, by /■ strength of arm, — which the force of the cur- remmt renders no easy task ; — the smooth rocks, and rou)iunded stones, making it difficult to find a secure fooio)ting. — Between these rapids, however, there are maiainy reaches, or smooth and deep parts of the rivwer, some of them about a mile in length ; and, the ee banks being covered by a variety of majestic treteees and shmbs of the most lively colours, nothing of t 1 the kind which I have ever seen Was more beau- tifu'tul or picturesque. — After passing many falls and rapipjids, we came to the first Valiente Settlement. — "j-'-The houses are situated at a small distance from the ©3 river ; and are surrounded by large plantations of i plantains, bananas, cassava, and cocoa. i .Above the first settlement, the land continues gra(aidually to extend ; and, at the distance of about thirirrty miles, assumes a mountainous appearance. Onni the evening of the day following that on whihiich we left the vessel, we arrived at the trader's houiiuse, situated on a moderately high bank close to t ithe river. My new friend, Whykee Taira, the tradicder alluded to, being informed of my intention to r ) remain with his countrymen, received me very cor\LIENTES.' 71 the lio'vv and arrow, and are good and dexterous spearnnocn. Thfvfy are in general courageous, possess much sense oof lionour, and continue to merit tlie appel- lation ".given to tliem by their fii-st discoverers, of " Indicos Bravos " or " Valientes. " They are a much ttaller race of people than those of San Bias, and mray, from their intercourse with European ami otlnor traders, be considered more civilized thar» most otf the other tribes, inhabiting this part of Terra Firma. Their avowed hatred to the Spa- niards, and partiality to the English, as may be seem from what has already been stated on that sulbject, renders a temporary or perhaps per- manent!; trading settlement amongst them per- fectly Fsecure ; and, in point of honesty, they are far- superior to their neighbours the Mos- quito mien, to whose king they, however, pay a sort of ttribute, or acknowledgment, annually, which they comsider in the light of a gratuitous present accordimg to ancient custom, rather than a mark of subjugaltion. On more than one occasion they have refused to pay this tribute, and about fifty years ago, whien a dispute took place on the subject, the Mosquitto king's uncle, with tlie whole of the chiefs, amd people, who then accompanied him to the numiber of about fifty men, fell a sacrifice to their re^wentment. No S«ookeah man, or priest of any kind, resided amongstc them during the years I visited, or resid- ed in, tlueir country, Mamage, baptism, and other ceremoniies, commonly considered religious, were performed by the elders of the settlement. They are not, however, without ideas of a future state, and an on'crruling Providence ; and, to any vyonder- 72 THE VALIENTES. fill, or providential, escape from danger ; ore, nn- countable preservation, they sometimes giv^e the name of " God business. " For instance, in o)ne of my excursions above the great falls, the Imdians inadvertently allowed the canoe to drift so near to a tremendous precipice, that they had no clhance of paddling her -out of danger. They insttantly leapt overboard and swam ashore. Being so com- pletely taken by surprise, I saw no chantce of safety but by keeping in the canoe, which went over the fall and was dashed in pieces. W^hen I recovered my recollection, I found myself iin the water, by the side of a small island, a litthe dis- tance beneath the fall, grasping firndy some bjushes that overhung the river. Some Indians 0)n the other side of the river, who had not seen tlhe ac- cident, conveyed me down to my own Ihouse. Feeling sick from the shock I had received, I lay down to recover myself. In the meantimie my companions in the canoe had gone home amd re- ported my death, in confirmation of whicln they pointed out the splinters of the canoe floatinig past the settlement. I had scarcely been an luour in my hammock when old Jasper, and oilier head- men, came to my house, lamenting my deatth, and proposing to take an account of my effects?, that they might be taken care of for my relatioms, or creditors. Nothing could equal their asltonish- ment when I sat up and askeper part, fe Indians ; and has, on many occasions, given the strongest proofs of a most kind, and benevolent disposition. In com- mon with every person who has visited the settle- ment, or resided in its vicinity, I have experienced his attentions ; and have much pleasure in thus ac- knowledging the gi"eat personal obligations which lie thereby confeired upon me. During the short time that the British were fixed on this part of the Mosquito Shore, under the superintendancy of Colonel Hodgson, many persons became settlers here ; and, if the British Government had not withdravm their protection, the vicinity of Pearl Kay Lagoon would now have been covered with flourishing plantations. The climate is good ; and, on the whole, with common care, and a small exertion of industry, the necessaries, and many of the luxuries of life, may be easily procured. The countiy and La- goon abounds in all the kinds of game and fish peculiar to the country and coast. The Mosquito men, Ramas, and other Indians, hire themselves to the settlers at Bluefields, and Pearl Kay Lagoon, as hunters and strikers of fish, at the rate of four or five dollars a month, paid in goods ; and they always cover the board of their employer with an ample supply of fish, game, and other provi- sions ; the Ramas or other pure Indians are al- ways preferred, for this purpose, to the mixed breeds. The value of these men, in the capacity above mentioned, was well known to the okl Buc- caniers, who had always some of them attached to their expeditions, even as far na the South Sea, to which they were fi-equently guided, by these Indians, across the continent. 112 RIO GRAKDE. Pearl Kay Lagoon is of considerable magni- tude ; one part of it reaching to vvitliin eight miles of Great River, or Kio Grande ; its greatest winding length, from north-east, to south-west, cannot be far short of sixty miles, or its breadth from sixteen to twenty. The Indians, in bad wea- ther, instead of keeping along the sea-coast, enter Pearl Kay Lagoon by hauling their canoes over the narrow neck of land between it and Bluefields Lagoon ; and, at the upper end of it, they have another haulover of about two hundred yards, into the ocean. In many places on the banks of the Lagoon, indigo grows spontaneously, but the richest land is generally to be found on the high ground, and banks of rivers, remote from the coast. The Cookras, a tribe of Indians, now nearly extinct, formerly resided on the banks of some of the rivers falling into this lagoon ; and they had formerly a settlement on tlie banks of the Wawa- Khaan river, but they abandoned it shortly after the arrival of Mr Ellis. Remaining some time at Pearl Kay Lagoon, I proceeded to Rio Grande and Prin- zapulko, (I give the last name according to the protmnciation), being the best places for obtainhig the large canoes wanted. Rio Grande enters the ocean about thirty miles to the northward of the entrance to Pearl Kay Lagoon ; its entrance being completely exposed to north-t«8t winds, is extremely dangerous ; and, al- thongli it is a noble stream, there is not more than four or five feet water over its bar : — It is said to be navigable for boats, nearly two hundred miles, and its souj-ce is totally unknown to the Englisli. CHIEF MEN. 113 There are several small islands insitle tlie bar, but there is no island off its entrance as stated by some writers. Tliere are several settlements of Indians on its banks, chiefly within a few miles distance from its entrance ; they are subject to the Mos- quito King, to whom they pay tribute ; but, like every other tribe of unmixed Indians, they are dis- contented with the authority assumed over them by the Mosquito men, or Samboes. Their headmen, Drammer and Dalbis,'two bro- thers, possess considerable influence over them, and the other Indians adjoining, on the Prinzapulko and Rio Grande settlements. The late Mosquito King had the good policy to bestow the title of " Governor " on Drummer, " Admiral *" on Dalbis, and " Captain " on the headman at Prinzapulko ; the latter being also an Indian of unmixed breed. I proceeded to Go- vernor Drummer's settlement, which is about eight miles from the mouth of the river, on one of its branches, close to an extensive and beautiful pine savannah. This house is a large building di- vided into three apartments ; close to it, stood a shed for cooking, and other domestic purposes. It is situated on a rising ground, at a short dis- tance from the river, and surrounded by twenty or thirty other houses of smaller dimensions. I found it tolerably well furnished with tables, benches, stools, crockery ware, glass, &c. ; and, every thing in and about it wore the appearance of a compara- tively well regulated, and comfortable abode. Its owner received me with the greatest cordiality, and, sending to make inquiries among his people, soon gave me to understand that I could procure I 2 114 PINE SAVANNAHS. six sudi canoes as I wanted, here, and at a little distance ; and also that he could procure me a quantity of tortoise-shell — in short, to use his own words, that I should be treated " true English gen- tleman fashion. " For all this kindness I was in some measure indebted to a few gallons of rum which I had brought, and it was intimated, that I had better rest from the fatigues of the voyage, and leave business until next day. In the meantime, the goods and rum were cai-efully removed from the dorie to an apartment in the house ; and, in a short time, a repast was served consisting of fish, flesh, fowl, and fruit, which, if properly cooked, would not have disgraced the table of an alderman. In the afternoon I had a long walk into the sa- vannah, which is pretty closely covered witli de- tached clumps of pitf'h pine trees of all ages and sizes : the trunks of many of them being from sixty to eighty feet in height, without a branch, the greater pai-t of considerable girth, and per- fectly straight. Towai'd sunset, innumerable flights of macaws, and pan-ots were seen comhig from all quarters, to roost in these trees neai" the houses ; and, the continued noise, made at this time, and at their departure in the morning, gave no bad idea of an English rookery : they are fond of harbouring near the Indians, who never molest them. Sevei'al horses were grazing in the savan- nah, but no black cattle — these are kept, as I af- terwards learnt, in the interior, at the provision grounds. On my return to the house, I found the princi- pal people of the setthiment waiting for me ; and as 1 liiiew they had adopted the ideas of the Mos- HORSES. SOIL, &C. 115 quito men, wlio judge of a trader by his liberality in sup])lying them with their favourite beverage, I requested Drummer to use my mm bottles, as if they were his own ; and, in consequence, all were soon in a state of intoxication. Early in the morning I called up Nelson, one of Drummer's sons, to join me in a ride through part of the savannah. He soon caught a couple of horses which seemed accustomed to be mount- ed, but for a bridle, we had only a small piece of rope ; and a thick mat made of dried plantain leaves, without tlie appendage of stirrups, served for a saddle. I found the savannah intersected by numerous paths, mostly of a fine sandy nature, in various di- rections leading, as Nelson informed me, to the hunting and provision grounds of the people at- tached to his father, his uncle, and the Admiral; each of whom had several wives, i'esi signaled General Blyatt, with a few others, were tolerably large, similar to that of governor Dram- mer, and tolerably well furnished with benches, tables, plates, glasses, basins, knives and forks, and other articles. A hammock was hung up in the Admiral's house for each of his guests, accord- ing to custom ; and, after a great deal of conver- sation about the state of the country, the customs, strength, and trade of the different settlements, and the general policy of the Mosquito-men, I re- tired to rest, pleased with the attention shown to me, but rather puzzled and alanued, by the mag- nitude of the preparations, for the approaching feast. The Admiral, during our journey up from Prinza- pulko had related several anecdotes of the King, and had given me some knowledge of his charac- ter. The Admiral seemed to regret the King's want of attention to the real interests of his coun- try ; his too great partiality for liquor and women : his extreme levity, and, the facility with which he associated with, and listened to, every visionary scheme submitted to him by the traders ; the ease with which the patriot General Aurey had got him entangled in one of his expeditions a* gainst the Spaniards at Truxillo ; and his general inattention to the safety, and prosperity, of his sub- jects. He also I'egretted that there was no British superintendants on the coast, as formerly, in the time of Colonel Hodgson, when the Mosquito Indians could find employment, and a demand for their pro- duce, at Black River, and the other settlements ; and 132 RECEPTION OF THE KING. the chiefs, throughout tlie coast, could dress thena- selves, and live, " right English gentleman fa- shion. " The chiefs, and old men, agreed with him in these observations ; and, they also, univer- sally disproved of the arbitrary manner in wliich the Jamaica traders exerted the influence they had acquired at some of the settlements of the coast, * adding, that ratlier than deal with them, they had actually, this season, sold the greater part of their tortoise-shell to the Americans, who, although they had such a variety of goods, were fairer dealers, and gave a better price. Early in the morning, I was awakened by the noise of the drum ; the natives were in a state of bustle and activity, preparing for the drinking match, and the reception of the King. He ar- rived, in a large canoe, with ten people, escorted by the. same number in two smaller ones. At the landing-place he was met by Admiral Eamee and General Blyatt, with some of the chief men of the neighbouring settlements ; the two former dressed in uniforms, with gold epaulettes. There was little form or ceremony used in their reception of the King ; a shake of the hand, and " how do you do. King, " in English, being the only salutation from all classes. Briefly inquiring my motives for coming to see him, he invited me to go witli him to the Cape, and I could then, at leisure, judge how far he could second my views, and how he was situated with his people, amongst whom, * They have been known to flog an Indian because he could: not, at the stipulated time, pay a small debt ; and they often take advantage of the natives, by making them intoxicated ; and, in that state, get them to part with the produce of their labours, without an equivalent. MOSQUITO COUNCIL. 133 fouv years ago, on his i-etuin from Jamaica, where he wafi educated, he found himself quite a stranger, lie was a young man, about twenty-four years of age, of a bright copper colour, with long curly hair hanging in ringlets down the sides of his face ; bis hands and feet small, a dark expressive eye, and very white teeth. He was an active and handsome figure, with the appearance of greater agility than strength. In other respects 1 found him, on further acquaintance, wild as the deer on his native savannahs. During the day, Indians arrived from various parts of the coast, and interior. At the meeting which took place in the King's house, various mat- ters relative to the government of the neighbour- ing settlements, disputes, and other public busi- ness, was discussed ; and I observed, that the King left every thing to the discretion of Earnee, Blyatt, and a few others. Li fact, he seemed to take lit- tle interest or trouble, further than to sanction the resolutions passed, so that they might be promul- gated as " the King's own order. " Such is the expression ; and that order is invariably obeyed, and caiTied into effect. During the time the coun- cil was sitting, no women were admitted ; a few only were afterwards permitted to enter, during the drinking match, to take care of their hus- bands, when reduced to a state of insensibility by intoxication. The discussions in the King's house being end- ed, the feasting began. Two men were stationed by the side of the canoe, who filled the mish- law drink into calabashes, which were tlien car- ried to the company by boys. As the men be- 134 MOSQUITO FEAST came exhilarated, they began to dance, in imita- tion of country dances, and Scotch reels, learaed from the foi-mer English settlers ; but they soon became too much intoxicated to preserve order. Every one, including the King and his select friends at the Admiral's house, gave way, without re- straint, to the pleasures of drinking ; and, during the evening, the King's uncle Andrew, chief man at DuckwaiTa, arrived, biinging one of his majes- ty's favourite wives. This chief was a short stout man, of unmixed Indian blood, very lively and quick in his motions, disguising, under an appear- ance of levity, much cunning and shrewdness; — he spoke tolerably good English ; and soon, by his ridiculous stories regarding the Jamaica ti'ad- ers, and by his satirical and witty remarks upon some of the old Mosquito men present, kept the company in a roar of laughter. The King observ- ed to me, in course of the evening, that I must not be surprised to see him act in the manner he was doing ; as it was his wish, by indulging the natives, to induce them to adopt gradually, and by degrees, the English customs, and mode of living ; and he requested me to observe how far he had succeeded, pointing out to me, that all present had thrown aside the pulpera, the com- mon Indian dress, and wore jackets and trowsers, with good hats. Some of them had coats, with other articles to correspond ; and, as I have often repeated, they prided themselves upon being " true English gentleman fashion." His majesty, as usual, paid more attention to the women than to the chiefs ; and, observing to me that the ladies here could dance fully as well as any of those at the former English settlements, AND DANCE. 135 propo6eicious propensi- ties, which were encouraged by the maimers and customs of his subjects, whom he considered it MOSQUITO KING. 149 necessaiy to conciliate, until they at length became habitual to him ; and, when any vessel visited the coast, or whenever he could procure rum, he was generally in a state of intoxication. At such times, his naturally liberal disposition overcame his pru- dence ; and, his countrymen found it their intet-est to encourage this vice, and hailed the arrival of the traders, as the signal for indulging in their propensities for drinking, whicli they were always sure the King would, not only gratify to the ex- tent of his abilities, but that, in those misguarded moments, he would readily present them with any thing of value in his possession. Under all these circumstances it is not sui-prising that George Frederick failed to realize the hopes of those who expected better of him. After his fii*st anival presents of clothing, blankets, cloth, duck, mos- cheats and other articles, were sent to him, by the British Government, for the purpose of being distri- buted among his people with a view to conciliate them, and maintain his authority ; and, at such times, the Reverend Mr Armstrong never failed to send him letters of advice regarding the regulation of his conduct, and the duties he owed to his people ; with a number of religious tracts, which were ge- nerally neglected, the King and his Prime Minis- ter observing, that a present of rum would have been far more acceptable, as he found it impossible to instruct his people on points Avhich he did not himself understand, and which they insisted were * Englishman lies. ' He was naturally of a ge- nerous disposition, and not destitute of ability; and, it is perhaps to be regretted that he did not receive an European, rather than an extremely loose M 2 150 BAD SOlh AT CAPE GUACIAS. West Indian education: by ihe former he would have had a fair chance of acquiring correct ha- bits, and some idea of the importanc^e of order and good government ; whereas, by the latter, he be- came possessed of very little really useful inform- ation, autl had an opportunity of engrafting, as it were, the bad qualities of the European, and Creole, upon the vicious propensities of the Sam- boe, and the capricious disposition of the Indian, by which his life was embittered, and his ultimate destruction caused. * Columbus and the compa- nions of his fourth voyage were the firet Europe- ans who visited the Cape. The soil in the neighbourhood is extremely bad ; and, with the exception of a few spots on which there are small patches of cassava, is incapable of producing any thing better than a coarse rank grass, fit however for pasturage. The inhabitants of the Cape, and the King himself, as I have formerly stated, are consequently obliged to depend on the people of the Hill Country, Croatch River, and those settled a considerable way up the Great Cape River, for plantains, maize, and other provisions. Owing to these causes, combined with an entire want of game, and a scarcity of good water, the Cape presents no advantages for an agricultural settlement. But, for a commercial establishment, • He wass it is said, assassinated in 1824, but I have not been able to learn the immediate circumstances wln'ch led to that catastrophe. Colonel Geo. "Woodbine of San Andres, at the request of the chiefs, sat as chairman in the investigation which took place, and I liave heard that some of those concerned in the murder were put to death. Robert succeeded to him' — and has, in liis, turn given way to James, descended from a more ancient branch of the family. VANKES RIVER. 151 and for grazing, it holds out many inducements ; — it has an excellent harbour or small bay, perfectly secure from all winds, although in some parts open to the south, which seldom blows : the bay is ca- pable of containing a large fleet in three to five fathoms water, with good holding gi-ound, abound- ing in fish of various kinds ; and, frequented, at certain seasons, by innumerable flocks of teal and widgeon. It is at no great distance from the Mos- quito Kays, whence can be procured, at all sea- sons, inexhaustible supplies of the finest green tur- tle ; and, but for this last circumstance, the Cape would be, perhaps, entirely deserted, such vessels as call there, being induced to do so only by tlie abundant supplies of turtle and tortoise-shell, and for the pui-pose of communicating with the King. The Great Cape or Vankes River, is known to have its source in the same mountainous country, which near to the Pacific gives rise to the Blue- fields River, or Rio de Nueva Segovia: its upper part is described by the Buccaniei-s, who, about 120 years ago, forced their way from the Gulf of Fonseca, across the mountains, to the Spanish town of Nueva Segovia, and from thence, after passing a short distance to the river, descended it in floats or pippirees to the Atlantic — as being si- tuated amongst rocky and precipitous mountains, with numerous falls ; that its course is over a chan- nel of prodigious rocks ; and that it mns with great rapidity until within about sixty leagues of the sea. The length of its course is said to be two to three hundred miles ; and it passes through some of the richest land, and most romantic scenery in Central America. Within forty or fifty miles of its mouth the land becomes low, poor, and sandy, with oc- 152 IMPORTANCE OF THE CAPE. casional ridges of pitch-pine, and some patches of good mould ; but, although the savannahs ai'e fit for pastui-age, and would support numerous herds, cattle are exceedingly scarce. Cape River enters the ocean some distance to the northward of the bay, or harbom*, and there is a shallow, canal-like communication, from the uppermost part of the latter, into the river, pass- able by canoes ; and which, might easily be en- larged, so as to enable small vessels to avoid the dangerous bar of the river itself, on which there is seldom more than four or five feet water. If commercial establishments were formed at the Cape, vessels might lie in safety at the upper end of the harbour all the year round ; and if sufficient encouragement were given, the valuable products of the interior would be collected, brought down the river, and, by the communication alluded to, into the bay, and shipped at all seasons of the year. It will be perceived, by what I have stated, that the country governed by Clementi, and part of that under Robinson, is almost exclusively pos- sessed by different tribes of unmixed Indians, who ai'e in possession of the richest land, and whose manners, and customs, and language, are, for the mv,dt part, essentially different from those of the Mosquito men, who are greatly dependent upon them for game and other provisions. These Indians are in general of a mild and peaceable disposition ; in which respect, they es- sentially differ from their Mosquito rulers, who seem to have derived, from their negro ancestor, a certain degree of enterprise, which constantly incites them to restless activity, rather than to the enjoyment of the quiet and peaceable habits of ORIGIN OF THE SAMBOES. 153 the genuine Indian : — hence they are rather fishei-s, than cultivators of the soil ; and, although they have, after many straggles, attained the ascend- ancy, they are by no means so estimable in a moral point of view, being treacherous, supersti- tious, and much more inclined to every species of debauchery, than the real Indian, who, in gene- ral, adheres strictly to the truth; while, with very few exceptions, the Samboe will not hesitate to violate every honest principle to accomplish thepai- ticular object which he may have in view. They are, however, hospitable, and have hitherto, on every emergency, cordially agi-eed with their neighbours in hatred to the Spaniards, and joined in defence of their liberties, whenever they considered them- selves in danger. Their negro ancestors ai'e said, by Mr Edwards * and others, to have been Afri- cans from the Samba cauntry, some hundreds of whom were wrecked on this coast in a Dutch ves- sel, and that having, by this means, recovei'ed their liberty, they travelled northwards, to wai-d Cape Gra- cias a Dios ; and, after sevei^al rencontres with the natives, came to a friendly understanding with them, • — had wives and ground allotted ; and have at length, by intermairiages, become in some mea- sure an Indian people, who, were they under pru- dent and active cliiefs, are, by their nature and disposition, well calculated to maintain their as- cendancy. But, it is not improbable that tlieir vicious propensities, encouraged by the imprudent conduct, and imbecility of their head men, may shortly rouse the vengeance of the genuine In- * History of the West Indies, 5th Edition, Ap]>cndi.v. As •tliey become more mixed with the natives, tlieir ap- pearance and character is every day less distinctly marked. 151 BLACK RIVER POYAIS. dians, who oi'e by far the most uainerous, and have only been kept in a kind of nominal subjection by their love of peace, fear of their common enemy tlie Sjjaniard ; and, by the divisions which the Mosquito-men have artfully created, and take care to keep up amongst them. There is yet a third class, whose vengeance may be equally fatal to them — namely, the Kharibees ; * who are darker in coi»- plexion, and superior in industry, to both the for- mer classes ; and, if they continue to increase with the same rapidity as at present, may, ultimately, obtain the entire ascendancy, at least on the coun- try north of the Cape. During my sojourn with the King, I aceompft- nied him in several excursions along the coast, and into the interior ; in particular, to Black Ri- ver in the Poyais country, since ceded to General MacGregor. During that joun>ey, I had an op- portunity of seeing the principal settlements along the coast to the northwai'd of Cai>e Gracias a Dies ; and, in order to preserve the form of nar- rative which I have adopted, shall confine my pre- sent observations, to that journey, reserving an ac- count of the Kharibees north of Black River, un- til after my return from Nicaragua and the City of Leon, when I finally visited them. Some Englishmen, and an American, acquaint- ed with the value of the land about Black River, and with the former state of the plantations there, had arrived from Barbadoes, with the determina- tion of forming a settlement at that place, and the King was now desirous of visiting, and giving thewa * I write the word not according to the European mode, but as it is universally pronounced on the coast. KUKAHJ. 155 encouragement. We left the Cape in a large boat, with about a doxen people. In mnning along the coast wa passed False Cape, situated about twenty- five miles distant from Great Cape River. We afterwards passed the River Croatch, a short dis- tance from False Cape : it is of considerable size, with from nine to ten feet water over the bar— - the land, on ie river. Three houses were standing, surrounded by large plantations of the banana, cassava, and plantain ; but there were no inhabitants. We remained se- veral hours ; and, after noon, proceeded on our voyage. A few miles up we found a very mate- rial difference in the current ; the river became wider, and shallower ; and, for the first time, I observed small islands in the middle, varying from a quarter to half a mile in length. The three bongos kept close together ; and, the padrones fre- quently consulted together as to which side of an island it would be most advisable to keep to avoid the current, invariably following the advice of the padrone in our boat, who seemed the most expe- rienced of the three. Throughout this day the men laboured harder at their oars than during the preceding. At night they fastened their vessels to a tree, supped and slept as usual, and again i"e- newed their progress a little after midnight. In the course of the ensuing morning we came to a veiy shallow part of the river, where it was with much difficulty that the twenty-two men pulling our boat, could stem the current, and the banks were so muddy, that it was not possible for men to track her up by means of a tow-rope. Great numbers of large alligators were basking on the SHALLOWS. 183 HiucMy banks, appearing at a distance like old de- cayed logs of wood, or trunks of trees. Tlie noise of our boat ascending these rapid-currents, and the songs of our mariners, invariably made these mon- strous reptiles take to the water. On passing this shallow, which can scarcely be denominated a rapid, we again got into deep wa~ ter ; and, stopping at one of the islands to lireak- fast, we met with an old Spaniard, and an Indian his attendant : they had come across the country from the city of Cartago, going to Granada on some law business. He had come by the Colo- rado River, through the Serapiqui branch, into the San Juan — now bargained with the master of our boat for a passage, and seemed happy that he could pursue his jouniey with comparative ease and safety. From this man, who spoke a little English, and fi-equently purchased goods from the traders at Ma- tina, I learnt that an enterprising Spanish merchant, of my acquaintance, residing occasionally at Ma- tina, but principally at Cartago, had incurred the suspicions of the Government there, was impri- soned, and his goods, to the extent of several thou- sand dollars, seized, on pi'etence of being in com- munication with the Independents — a circumstance which rendered me still more anxious relative ta my ultimate situation. In the evening we came to another shallow, where the cuirent was nearly as strong as that which we passed in the morning ; the bongos were kept close to the shore, in the counter current, and we got over it by means of hard pulling. At night we brought up in the middle of the stream, the people being so much fatigued with 184 RAPIDS. this day's hard labour, tliat they showed no inclin- ation to go on shore. During the night some rain fell, but all the goods were protected from the wet, by being covered with raw hides. Long before day-break we resumed our voyage ; and, previous to breakfast, we came to a shallow rapid, or place similar to tliat we passed yesterday ; several small islands, which liad the appearance of being ovex- flowed during the rainy season, lay in the bed of the river ; and, a circumstance here occurred, showing that our old padrone's knowledge of the naviga- tion was not overrated. One of the bongos hav- ing got before ours, kept to the larboai d side of an island, about half a mile long, by a channel, which appeared broader than the one on the other side wliich our and the other bongo entered ; we passed this island by mere dint of hard labour at the oar. On getting again into deep water, we perceived the bongo, which had tried the other channel, a- ground in the middle of it, and her people over- board endeavouring in vain to shove her on : they were at last obliged to force her back, and come round by our channel. Our old padrone abused the person who had caused the delay, and told us that very few persons knew any thing of the pro- per com-se, in ascending the river ; and that not a person on the whole Lake of Nicaragua understood it so well as himself. This day was one of exces- sive labour and fatigue to the people, as they had sevei'al small runs to overcome, the deep water being only at intervals, for a mile, or a mile and a half. On tJie sixth day, we recommenced our jour- ney as before, and now found the river clearer of rapids and islands, its greatest breatlth not being CASTLE OF SAN JlTAKT. 185 more than a quarter of a mile, and the banks ri- sing ten to fifteen feet above the level of the water. The land appeared composed of a rich black soil, healing trees of an immense size, chiefly the bul- let, or huUey sour ivood, cedars, and locusts, grow- ing close to the water's edge. In the evening we landed, lighted fires, and slept at a deserted set- tlement, consisting of four houses, concealed from view by a plantation of bananas, plantains, &c. The old boat-master accommodated me with a hammock, a luxmy I had not for a long time en- joyed. Next morning we started at three o'clock every one exerting himself to the utmost, in the hope of reaching the old fort of San Juan in the evening ; — we were however opposed to a strong GuiTent, the whole day, tlie padrone asserting that the river was very low at present. The peo- ple only ceased from their labour once during the day ; and although there were latterly none of those rapids, or shallows, we had encountered on the preceding days, they became so exhausted that they gave up all hope of reaching the castle that night. We accordingly disembarked, cooked our pi'ovisions, and slept as before ; certain of being- there by breakfast time next morning, when we again proceeded, and shortly came to a low island, nearly a mile in length. Our bongo took the lead as usual, through a narrow channel, on the riglit side of the island, where, in some places, there was barely sufficient space to use their oars : — the other channel I o!)served to be of much greateif width, but not so deep. We shortly came in sight of the castle, which I judged to be about two miles above this last mentioned island. We here p 2 18G LORD KELSON. ~* found the rivei* as wide as in any part of its course : tlie current was strong, but the water, close in with the banks, was deep, and the eddy, in counter current, assisted us in getting up to the only com- plete rapid we had yet seen. The bongos being hauled into a small basin, appai'ently dug for the purpose of landing goods, we proceeded to the castle, where I was immediately placed under a guard. Here, for the first time, I exchanged a few words with my Indians, who were now free from ii-ons, but I had barely time to assure them of my regard, when I was huixled into a separate place of confinement. Breakfast was sent to me from the commandant's table ; and Don Raymond, and the Spaniard from Cartago, visited and informed me I would remain here until an answer was re- ceived from San Cai'los fixing my future destina- tion. By the interest of these gentlemen, I was allowed to walk about the place, attended by a soldier. I found the crews of the boats engaged in carrying the goods on their shoulders to a house at a little distance from the landing place, where an officer was apparently taking an inventory of each article. An old building, having somewhat the appear- ance of a fortification, situated on an eminence, is the only remaining part of the castle of San Juan; this dilapidated fortress was, as I afterwards learn- ed, the same which had been taken by Lord Nel- son when Captain ; assisted by a detachment of troops from Jamaica, and a large body of Mosquito and other Indians. It completely commands the rapid in such a manner, that no b()at or vessel of any kind could pass ; but, having been suffered to become ruinous, a small battery of eight brass field- BRYAN EDWARDS. IS^f {tieeces had been constructed at the foot of the emi- nenico ; two of tliese guns pointed down the river, twto up, and a few across the rapid. The place, indcependent of the castle and battery, only consists of Uodgings for the soldiers, and a few houses, ap- parcently occupied by their wives, or followers. IThe rapid is little more than a quarter of a mile in lijreadtli, extending quite across the stream ; the 8tro)ngest part of the current is in the middle. The desicent is gradual, like the sloping banks on the shoire, which appear not more than five or six hun- drecd yards in length. Some idea may be formed of itts force, and of the difficulty of surmounting it, by (Considering that, on the second morning after our arrival, it required above an hour's exertion of a nmmerous crew to haul the empty bongos up the stre.'am. I may here observe, that I had seen Bryan Ed- warrds' account of the Mosquito Shore, and had otheerwise heard it asserted that the Rio de San Juam was navigable through its whole course to the lake', of Nicaragua for vessels of considerable bur- them, and that a schooner of thirty tons, had ac- taallly sailed up the lake, and afterwards retui-ned, dow/n the river, to Jamaica. Many authors, from this single report of Bryan Edwards, have boldly assen'ted, that the lake is navigable for ships of the line,, and that the San Juan is also navigable for largce ships, through its whole course. Fi'om what I haive already stated, the absurdity of the latter asseu'tion must be very evident, as also the stoiy of tlhe schooner's voyage ; for, admitting that in the u-ainy season, when the river was full, or at its greaitest height, she might have stolen past the staticon at the river's mouth, and got over the uij- 188 ERRONEOUS STATEMENT- nor rapids, she never could liave passed this great rapid, or escaped the vigilance of tlie garrison here ; or finally, at the castle of San Carlos, situated on an eminence, at the entrance of the lake, com- manding a view of at least ten miles of the river, and forty or fifty of the Lake of Nicaragua. In short, I consider the whole story fabulous, and not entitled to the slightest credit ; but more of this hereafter. At noon I was invited to dine with the officers of the station, one of whom, in the course of con- versation, observed, that although 1 was consider- ed " a contrabandisto," yet, if I could prove I was not connected with the Patriots, I should have my property returned, in consideration of having as- sisted in defending the Estrella ; but the credu- lous smile on the countenance of Salablanca gave me to understand that he still considered me what I had at first been represented by my accusers. CHAPTER IX. L5;AVE fort SAN JUAN FINE TIMBER ON THE BANKS VILLAGE AND FORT OF SAN CAULOS-- I'UOCEEDINGS THERE RELIGIOUS TRACTS DEPART FOR GRANADA — THE LAKE OF NI- CARAGUA SAN MIGUEL THE PADRONES ORI- SONS VOLCANIC ISLAND LAND BETWEEN THE LAKE AND SOUTH SEA ARRIVAL AT GRANADA . — EXAMINATION AND IMPRISONMENT BASE INTERPRETER DEPARTURE FOR THE CITY OF LEON. On our first anival at San Juan, a small canoe had been despatched to San Carlos with letters to the Co)nimandant, whose answer an-ived on the third day, instructing Salablanca to proceed to diat plaice with his prisoners. The bongos being again Uoaded, we reembarked ; and, crossing the river to a large building opposite »the fort, each bongo received twenty or thirty poles, about twenty -five feet long ; and also two long planka xvhich were fixed fore and aft the sides of the boat, to serve as gangways. We now proceeded on our yoyage ; the river had the same appearance as ha- 1'^ rm CASTLE low the rapid, and was of the same breadth, but the banks rather lower. In the afternoon, we came to a narrower place with higher banks on both sides, composed of light yellow earth, and strata of white clay ; here the people laid aside their oars and used the poles. The current was not stronger than in many other parts of the river, but it was shallow, and the bottom more firm and equal. By the use of poles the vessels were impelled against the stream with double the velo- city tliat could have been communicated by oars. The distance pulled could not have been less tlian six miles, and yet our whole progress, after the greatest fatigue and exertion, did not, during the whole day, exceed twelve miles. Shortly after midnight we resumed om* voyage by moonlight, the poles were again used until we had passed a nairow island, nearly three quarters of a mile in extent ; here a beautiful reach presented itself, perfectly straight, four or five miles in length, and the current scarcely perceptible : The crews now stuck their poles into a muddy bank, which, from the quantity already there, seemed the general de- pository of all the staves which had been used for years past. Preparations were made, after breakfast, to avail themselves of a fine breeze; some of the people were sent into the Avoods for masts, which had been secreted there ; and, they contrived, in an awkward bungling manner, to Iioist large square sails upon them. After making some progress we descried the castle of San Car- los, the Gibraltar of the Lake of Nicaragua. Hav- ing passed the reach, we immediately entered an- other, larger and more beautiful ; the river very wide, the water deep, free from shoals, aud the OF SAN CARLOS. 19l current scarcely felt. On each bank were trees of an immense size, amongst which I could dis- tinguish the enormous bulk of tlie cotton tree, cedar, mahogany, bally, locust, sapodilla, vai'ious species of the palm, and a vast vaiiety of others totally unknown to me. Shortly after entering this reach we had a full view of the castle, and niy Spanish companions began .to make prepara- tions for landing. Turning a bend in the river we came at once in view of the lower part of the fort and village now within one mile distant. Hei'e, the river again becomes contracted to about a quai'ter of a mile in breadtli, with a strong cur- rent. Our people took in their sails, and plied their oars so vigorously, that we were soon op- • posite the castle, from the walls of which we were hailed, by an officer, using a speaking trumpet, with as much formality as if hostility had been ' anticipated. We lay on our oars in the mean time, the bongos continuing to drop astern with the current, until the requisite answers had been given, and permission to approach obtained. Hav- ing pulled through the strong current setting out of the lake, we landed in front of the castle, where we were met by the commandant, with a guard, ami half the population of the place apparently at- tracted by curiosity to see the spy of the Indejjen- dents, and his " Indios Bravos ; " — their looks gave evidence that they considered my situation desperate. We entered the fort by a drawbridge of great strength and magnitude, SKspended by enormous iron chains ; and, through two immense gates, in- to a long arched passage, having on each side se- veral cells, those to the right appearuig to extend 192 RELIGOUS TRAC'-rS. round the wliole side of the building. Every door had a strong iron grating, about two feet square, to admit light and air ; and there appeared to be prisoners within most of them. Into one of these places I was commanded to enter, and was left to my own cogitations. I gave way for some lime to the most melancholy reflections, from which I was agi-eeably roused by the entrance of a lieutenant and two people, bringing me a supper from the Governor Don Juan Blanco's table, with a bottle of wine and some agua-ardiente. The lady of this lieutenant kindly sent me a pillow and blanket ; and he informed me that the Governor would see, and interrogate me in the morning. I remarked to him that the cell, in which I was confined, ap- peared to be such as is usually appropriated for the reception of felons ; and, pointing to the bed- stead, bottomed with a half-dressed hide, the stool, and large jar, its only furniture, and to the decorations on the walls, one of them representing a man hanging from a gibbet, and another in the act of being shot, I asked, as well as I could make myself understood, if it was right to confine me in such a place as this previous to my trial ? — that I was perfectly innocent, and that the papei-s found in my vessel would be sufficient to confute, by a mere reference to their dates, the evidence of the rascals who had accused me. Next morning the Commandant informed me that he had been look- ing over my papers, amongst which were some religions tracts, and ten or twelve New Testa- ments, which he seemed to consider likely to be of a' political nature ; but that, as he could not find any of his people to explain them properly, he had determined to send them to Granada. He VILLAGE OF SAN CARtOS. 193 gave me liberty, in the mean time, to walk about the place, of which I immediately availed myself ; and I was shortly joined by the friendly lieuten- ant, who invited me to his quarters, where we were visited by several other officers, one of whom I fortunately recognised to be a person who I had once seen on board a Jamaica trader. He also recollected me, and immediately reported the circumstance to the Governor, who ordered me to attend him next day at his house, which is situated on rising ground near the castle, commanding an extensive view of the lake, and the village of San Carlos. The village contains about one hundred and fifty houses, the walls are of clay or mud, of considerable thickness, neatly white-washed, which gives them the appearance of cleanliness and soli- . of his people, been assisting the settlers to erect houses, and clear ground, and enable them to se-' cure a good crop of early provisions. I promised to meet these men at their principal settlement ; and Mr Warren, and Colonel Gordon, having fur- nished me with what I wanted, we took advantage of the land-breeze in the evening, and again re- crossed the bar. We ran down the coast to one of the principal Kharibee settlements, about twelve miles from Black River, were received with great kindness, and readily furnished with as many fowls, and as much fruit, Kharib bread, and other pro- visions, as we chose to have, for which they would scarcely accept any remuneration. The method of preparing this bread, a considerable quantity of which is sent to Balize, and other places for sale, is as follows : — Having selected from their extensive plantations, some of the largest and finest cassava roots, they are carefully skinned and washed ; then grated upon large tin graters, procured for that purpose from the traders ; the substance is then washed in clean water, which is frequently shifted and run off, to free the cassava, which is now of a brownish colour, from a strong acid liquor, said to be poisonous ; the whole mass, when sufficiently whitened, is put into a long bag or basket, general- ly made of the spathes of a particular sort of tree ; this basket is placed in a perpendicular position, between two posts ; and, by the application of a lever, every drop of moisture is pressed out ; the farinaceous substance is then dried in the sun, and either kept for use as a substitute for flour, or made into round cakes, of eighteen or twenty in- ches in diameter, and about a quarter of an inch in thickness, toasted upon thin iron plates, over a KHARIB SETTLEMENTS. 273 clear fire of wood-ashes. When properly prepw- ed, tliese cakes will keep good for months, and, when new, taste pleasantly, and are a strong nour- ishing food. The flour is also used in hot water as gruel, made more or less thick, seasoned with salt and Chili pepper ; or, sometimes, eaten with sugai'-cane syrup. These Kharibees, or Caribs as they are usually called in Europe, were originally natives of the Leeward Islands, but having become troublesome to the Government of St Vincents, were, some- time ago, banished from that Island, and conveyed to Roatan or Rattan, an island in the Gulf of Honduras, and means afforded them for forming a settlement there : — they were supplied with clothing ; and a large vessel containing provisions, agricultural implements, and other stores, was placed, in a secure harbour of the island, entirely at the disposal of their chiefs. Grieved at their banishment from St Vincents, and careless of life, they improvidently suffered the store-ship to sink at her anchors, and thus lost the greater part of every thing provided for their future comfort. Be- ing visited by the Spaniards, from Truxillo, many of them went to that place, and built a village to the westward of the town. As their liberty had been guai'anteed, many of them entered the Spanish service, under subalterns appointed from their owQi tribe ; and, at present, they ai'e the most numerous part of tlie population of Tnixillo. Some of them, however, who were at first discon- tented with their situation, emigrated from thence, and from Roatan, to the Mosquito Shore, where they have two principal settlements; one of them max the Great lipcks, about twenty miles to the 274 HISTORY AND CHARACTER westward of Black River, the other near Cape Cameron. The Mosquito King having given them all the encouragement in his power, they extended a chain of small settlements as far as Patook. But by the oppressive conduct of the late chief, Ro* binson, and his successor Ban-as, they have for the most part retired, and concentrated themselves to the northward of Black River, where they are rapidly increasing in numbers, and now bid defiance to their enemies. Their houses are built more neatly than those of the Mosquito-men, and have an air of greater comfort and independence. Each house has its small plantation attached to it, kept in very neat order ; they had assisted the few settlers at Black River in erecting houses and clearing gi-ound ; but these settlers were not possessed of sufficient capital to turn the labours of these men to farther account. Louis, one of their headmen, informed me, that they never interfered with the Indians, by intermarriages or otherwise ; and, whatever their ancestors of St Vincents may have been, they are now honest and industrious. They are not so expert, as the Indians, at striking fish, or with the bow and arrow ; but, with the cutlass, they are equal to the Valientes ; and with muskets, of which every Kharibee has one, they excel all the Mos- quito-men and Indians. Their settlements are in general close to the sea-shore ; they cultivate rice, cassava, sugar cane, &c. and have abundance of hogs, ducks, turkeys, and other small stock, which, with considerable quantities of the bread already mentioned, they convey for sale to Truxillo and Balize. At the latter place they hire themselves, for several months at a time, to the mahogany and logwood cutters of the bay, and work with the- OF THE KHAUIBEES. ' 275 regular woodmen. These people's ancestors were the lasit unremoved descendants of the race which occupied many of the Islands on the CaiTibean Sea, alt the time of their discovery by Columbus ; considerably modified, however, by their mixture with tlie Negroes. They are in general of a dark red colour ap- proaching to, and often not easily distinguishable from black ; they have the short curly hair of the Negro ; but are remarkably clean skinned, well made, active, and vigorous. Their features are agreeable, paiticularly those of the young people ; and I never could perceive any of that malforma- tion of the head mentioned by some writers in their description of the Kharibees of the Orinoco. These latter, however, together with several other tribes inhabiting the banks of that river, the Canra, and Cumana, who are said to be marked not only by that peculiarity, but also by superior size, and strength, were a different people, generally at wai" with the red men of St Vincents, and the other Leeward Islands. The country behind their present settlements is fertile, hilly, and well water- ed ; having several considerable rivers and streams, on the banks of which are abundance of the finest mahogany, dyewoods, sarsaparilla, and other valua- able natural productions of the soil. The Poyer hills, called by the Spaniards Sierra de la Ciniz, come down almost to the sea-shore. We left the Kharibees in the evening, and from the Great Rocks stood over for Bonacca or Guan- aja, a small island discovered in 1502 by Colum- biis on his fourth voyage, when he had his first interview with the natives of the continent. We reached this island early on the following morning, 276 ISl/AND OF nOATAN. and landed opposite a watering place in an excellent harbour on the south side ; the beach, above high watermark, was thickly covered by cocoa nuts ; and near tlie watering place, innumerable tracks of the wild hog. The island contains hills of con- siderable elevation, thickly covered with trees ; and it is said to contain beds of limestone, and some ores of zinc. From the east end of Bonacca to the small island of Barbaratte, there is an un- connected chain of reefs and patches of rock, some with deep channels betwixt them, and others with not more than eight or ten feet of water which is so clear, that we never lost sight of the bottom, and frequently saw large shoals of fish sporting about. We landed on Barbaratte, which is thickly overgrown with prickly plants and thick underwood, on the borders of which I found three or four sorts of wild grapes. Our fishers procured a large green turtle, and caught some very fine fish ; in the evening we pursued our voyage, running along the remaining part of Bar- barratte and the small Island of Moratte, towai'ds the island of Roatan. Roatan is about thirty miles long, and eight or nine in breadth ; the land is moderately high, covered with wood, except at the west end, where there are some savannahs on which mules and other cattle used to be raised. This beautiful island ha,s an excellent harbour, easily defended ; it was once in possession of the English, who erected batteries completely commanding this harbour, and marked out a space at its end for the erection of a town. The woods abound in deer, wild hogs, gibeonites, pigeons, with millions of parrots and other birds, many of them excellent food, and the whole coast ISLAND OF UTILA. 277 swarms with fish and turtle, both green and hawksbill. The English withdrew their troops from it at the time tlicy abandoned the Mosquito Shorn, and owing to their liability to attacks from the Indians and others in those troublesome times, none of these fine islands are now inhabited. From Roatan the Island Utila is visible ; and after a short run we landed at a low beach at the west end, where the water was perfectly smooth. The soil of all these islands is rich, and well a- dapted for the cultivation of cotton, coffee, &c. ; and the natural productions of each are similar. Innumerable flocks of parrots and pigeons were flying about ; and cocoa nuts were so very plenti- ful, that whole cargoes could be procured with veiy little trouble. We left this island on the second day, but had scarcely got clear away from the reefs, which we did before sunset, when we experienced a tremen- dous swell from the north-east ; and, notwith- standing that we had a considerable quantity of ballast on board, together with the ten Indians and myself, I found our vessel too light to make a true course. In the night it blew a heavy gale, and although the mahogany craft kept to wind- ward much better than our cedar vessel, she was constantly shipping seas ; and on that account was obliged to bear away, and follow in our wake. During the night we carried away our mast, and, when again getting it up, we shipped a sea that nearly filled us, and must have sent any ordinary boat to the bottom. The greater part of the Mosquito men imme- diately jumped overboard to lighten the vessel, z 278 STORMY PASSAGE ACROSS while the remainder promptly employed them- selves in heaving out the water, using their hats, calabashes, or whatever else was readiest for that purpose. During this operation we kept the boat before the swell, the men overboard held by the gunnels until we were ready to readmit them, and they again made sail with as much fearless ala- crity as if nothing unusual had occurred. In the morning we found ourselves close to Glover's Reef, upon which there were dreadful breakers ; but, as the dawn approached, the wind moderated, and we got round the south end, into smooth water. Ilacon and his crew had much difficulty to keep the water out of their dorie ; and ours, although not so steady in the sea, was, upon the whole, the most safe ; as she would not only have float- ed, but home a considerable weight, when full of water. The smaller canoes had kept more to windward, and got safe in by the Tobacco Kay Channel, without the least damage. I had a good opportunity, during this passage, of judging how far the Mosquito-men could be depended upon in bad weather ; and I formed a very favourable opi- nion of them as boatmen. They were always ready to obey orders, — never seemed to lose their presence of mind, — and I have no doubt that, with proper instructions, and experience in ma- naging larger vessels, they might, in their own seas, be made good seamen. We found, on one of the Kays, at Glover's Reef, a party of fishermen curing fish and turtle for the Balize market ; and, in the course of the day, I had an opportunity of obtaining a passage to Balize in a trading vessel from Omoa, tlie crew of which had stopped to gather cocoa-nuts for gale THE BAY OF HONDURAS. 279 there. The Mosquito men being desirous of re- maining for the same purpose, and to procure fish for sale at the British settlement, I left the fleet under charge of Racon, and they in a few days joined me at Balize, where, by orders of Colonel Arthur, his Majesty's superintendant, they were kindly received, and regular rations allowed them. CHAPTER XIV. MOSQUITO COUNTRY ITS FITNESS FOR EURO- PEAN SETTLEMENTS — CLIMATE, PRODUCTIONS, &C. FORMER BRITISH SETTLEMENTS THERE KATIVES, AND NECESSITY FOR AFFORDING THEM PROTECTION DISPUTES REGARDING THE MOS- QUITO SHORE OPINION OF MR EDWARDS~r- PIFFICULTY OF ACCESS TO THE CENTRAL STATES FROM THE EAST COAST ROUTE BY OMOA TO GUATEMALA LEAVE BALIZE — TAKEN BY PI- RATES — ESCAPE TO CUBA, AND RETURN TO ENGLAND. The recent injudicious and ill-seconded attempts of an individual, * to fix a colony of Europeans on the Mosquito Shore — together with the misrepre- sentations to which these gave rise, and the gene- ral want of attention to correct information on the subject — have induced many persons to adopt the most erroneous ideas of the soil, climate, and ca- pabilities of this country. My own experience, and the infonnation ob- * Sir Gregor Macgregor. See some Account of the Mosquito Ttrritory, &c. from the original manuscripts of the late Colonel Hodgson, Edin. 1822. — Hastie's Narra- tive, and various publications on the subject. MOSQUITO COUNTRY. 281 tained from several Europeans, many of them nearly a century old, who were residing on the coasit little more than a year ago, is, to me, a suf- ficient proof that several parts of it are decidedly more salubrious than any one of our settlements in the West Indies. It is well known, that if men are located in low marshy ground, in the neigh- bourhood of stagnant water, the consequences are injurious to them in every country, but niore es- pecially in a hot climate : — but I venture to af- firm, and I do so without fear of contradiction, that in dry situations similar to the Valiente set- tlements, where the waters quickly run off, Euro- peans would, generally speaking, enjoy an almost uninteiTupted state of health, and live to a good old age ; and I venture to add, that in such situa- tions, the general mass of European cultivators could, with safety, perform more than double the work presently done by the Valientes, or any other tribe of Indians. Many of the dry savannahs, and fine ridges, are equally healthy ; but it is in the interior, on the banks of a river, that, as an agri- culturist, I would prefer forming a settlement; and many hundred thousands of Europeans could find an asylum in such situations along the line of coast possessed by the Indians, and in the hilly country behind the Kharibbee settlements, with- out putting any of the native residents to incon- venience for want of room. The mosquitoes, sandflies, and other insects ; the poisonous reptiles, and wild beasts, of which so much is said in England, are, as regards the si- tuations alluded to, mere bugbears to frighten children ; — the former are only troublesome on the z 2 282 CLIMATE, &C. OF low sandy beaches and swamps, some Bettlemcnts being entirely clear of them ; and the latter seldom come near the habitations of men, or do any harm. It has been asserted, and I am more inclined to confirm than deny it, that nearly the whole line of coast from Cape Hondm-as to the River San Juan, is free from those violent hun-icanes which sometimes rage with such destructive fury in the "West India Islands ; and it has also been affirm- ed, that the same tract of country is not subject to those dreadful earthquakes which have so often shaken, and, at one time or other, almost entirely destroyed the Spanish American towns towards the Pacific Ocean ; spreading death and dismay amongst the wretched inhabitants. I have in the course of the preceding narrative endea- voured to describe such of tlje valuable produc- tions of the country as came under my notice ; and I now repeat that inexhaustible supplies of cedar, mahogany, santa maria, rose-wood, and many other exceedingly valuable timbers, may be obtained on the coast, and on the banks of all the rivers in the interior : — Dyewoods, gums, drugs, and medicinal plants of various descriptions, are plentifully dispersed all over the country. The savannahs reai* considerable numbers of cattle ; and, if there was a demand for them, innumerable herds could be supported on the plains close to the shore, as well as in the interior. Past ex- perience confirms the assertion, that the soil is well adapted to^the cultivation of sugar, coflFee, cotton, tobacco, indigo, and all the other productions of a tropical climate ; and I have no doubt that a eijfficient quantity of rice and Indian com might be produced, to supply the whole of our posses^ THE MOSCiUITO COUNTRY. 283 Bions in the West Indies with these necessaiies. The turtle fishery might not only be protected from interlopers, but, by using proper methods to pre- serve the animal from wasteful destruction, a much greater quantity of tortoise-shell might be procured. Perhaps it is not generally known, that it was owing: to political difficulties, and not to any in- capabilities of the soil or climate, that the British Government were induced to break up their in- fant settlements, on the Mosquito Shore, at a time when they were rapidly increasing in prosperity and that it was with the greatest reluctance, and only in obedience to positive orders, that the Bri- tish settlera slowly and discontentedly left their plantations. Many of the Creoles and people of colour, however, as well as some of the Euro- peans, preferred remaining at all hazards ; and I have had occasion to state that, even at the pre- sent day, their descendants still reside unmolested, and comparatively comfortable, in their old pos- sessions, particularly at Bluefields, Pearl Kay La- goon, and other places on the coast, which are by them, and theii- Indian friends, considered English settlements. The actual number of persons, exclusive of the aborigines, under the British jurisdiction in the year 1757, according to the account of their su- perintendant, Colonel Hodgson, was about eleven hundred souls ; and in the year 1770, Mr Ed- wards estimates the number at fourteen hundred. * The gi'eater pait of these people were at Black * Some account of the British settlements on the Mos- quito Shore drawn up from the manuscripts of the late Colonel Hodgson, &c. — Edin. 2d En. also Edward's His- tory of the West Indies, 5th edition— Appendix. 284 DISPUTES CONCERNING River, Cape River, and Brancmans : — The foiTnei* place, where the British had erected a small fort, was the only one of the deserted settlements which the Spaniards dared even attempt to take into their possession ; but they were immediately driven from it by the Indian General, Robinson, whom I have so often had occasion to mention. The remainder of the British, at Cape Gracias a Dios, Sandy Bay, Pearl Kay Lagoon, the Corn Islands, Bluefields, Punta Gordo, Brewers Lagoon, Plantain River, Miztisoe Creek, and other parts of the coast, as far southward as Chiriqui Lagoon, were never molested. They owned twelve merchant vessels, several of them in the European trade, the others constantly trading to Jamaica, and the United States ; and their exports of mahogany, sarsapar- illa, tortoise-shell and mules ; together with spe- cie, indigo, cocoa, hides, and tallow got in barter with the Spaniards, were very considerable, and daily increasing. In the year 1776, the sloop Morning Star, Alexander Blair and Dr Charles Irving owners, having been seized by two Spanish Guarda Cas- tas — a memorial drawn up by Bryan Edwards, * explanatory of the right which Britain had to re- tain her settlements on the Mosquito Coast, was laid before parliament. In that memorial Mr Edwards clearly traces the connexion which had subsisted between the British and Free Indians oh the Mosquito Shore, since the reign of Charles the First : and contends, that by the seventh arti- cle of the treaty of Madrid, in 1670, the repeated * The historian of the West Indies, one of his Ma- jesty's Counsel for the Island of Jamaica, F. R. S. S. A. &c. vide 5th edition of his Works — Appendix. THE MOSQUITO SHORE. 385 cef5sions made by tlie Indians to the King of Great Britain were recognised and confirmed ; — and, that these cessions were not rendered invalid by the treaty of Aix la Chapelle ; consequently — that the order issued after the conclusion of that treaty to withdraw our troops, and dismantle the fortifi- cations built by the British at Black River, &c. *' were evidently grounded on a most imaccount- able notion that the Mosquito Shore was part of the Bay of Honduras ; an astonishing instance of inattention, to call it by no harsher name, as it is no part of the Bay of Honduras, so neither is it any part of the territory of Spain in that jmrt of tJie world. But, whatever interpretation may have formerly been given to these Spanish treaties, they may now be considered as no longer in existence; and, therefore, it is to be hoped the British Go- vernment will, in good time, see the propriety of again extending its protection to the descendents of these Britisli settlers and not abandon them, and their Indian friends, to the restrictive regula- tions, and arbitrary exactions of the new govern- ments of Spanish America ; who, although they cannot have derived from their ancestoi's, or other- wise, any well-founded claim to the Indian coast, or Mosquito Shore, seem, by their despotic and arbitraiy decrees, to assume the right of imposing, upon these free people, a yoke similar to that which they have thrown upon their own shoulders. It appears certain, that the natives will never as- similate with the citizens of these new States, nor willingly submit to their domination ; and as the latter are not at present sufficiently powerful to occupy the Indian country by force of arms, it is to be feaied tliat> unless prevented by the inter? 286 ROUTE FROM OMOA ference of Great Britain, tliey may cede their pre- tensions to the United States ; whose traders, speaking the same language as the English, have been gradually spreading themselves on the coast and undermining ours ; — and, if they ultimately obtain a firm footing, they may not only do serious injury to our West India possessions ; but, on some pretence or other, overpower, and by forced la- bour, at canals or other works, gradually destroy the natives. Positions strong by nature, and easily fortified at a trifling expense, have been pointed out ; and Bryan Edwards, Colonel Hodgson, Cap- tain Wright, and other well informed men, have repeatedly insisted upon the advantages to be de* rived from the occupancy of some points on the coasts ; more especially that our West India pos- sessions would be thereby strengthened, and our colonists on any emergency, such as a hurricane or other sudden calamity, could in a few days be supplied fi'om thence with provisions, stock, and lumber, — instead of being obliged to depend upon uncertain arrivals from the United States and Ca- nada ; or, in the event of war, from perhaps a much greater distance. I have particularly described one of the princi- pal routes by which the Central States have access to the Atlantic ; and, I need only give a skort sketch of the direct road from the Bay of Hondu- ras to tlie capital, to show how nearly they are shut out from all communication with the east coast ; and the consequent difficulty of maintiin- ing a free intei com*se, and exchange of commodi- ties, with Europe and the West Indies ; premisng, that the shore of what is termed the Provincf of Honduras, and the greater part of tliat Proviice TO GUATEMALA. 287 itself, is, for the most part, either uninhabitable, or in the hands of the Kharibees and hostile In- dians ; who, without regarding the almost deserted towns of Truxillo and Omoa, could at any time render even this, the most direct route, dangerous or impracticable. The coast, to the westward of Cape Honduras and Truxillo, is low, swampy, shut out from the regular sea-breeze, and exceedingly unhealthy. The distance in a direct line from Truxillo to Omoa, is about 60 or 70 leagues, and a recent traveller, who seems to entertain a favourable opi- nion of the Central States, gives the following ac- count of his journey from thence to the city of Guatemala. * On their ariival at Omoa, he and his companions preferred remaining two days on shipboard, rather than expose themselves to the putrescent vapours which exhale from the marshes. Providing themselves with mattresses, provisions, &c. they left Omoa on the 2Sth April 18-^5, and travelled tvsenty-two leagues to the mouth of the river that empties itself from the Golfo Dulce into the sea. Proceeding up that river, they en- tered the small gulf, and, crossing a streight into the Golfo Dulce, descended it to Izabel, a trifling village recently established, inhabited by a few ne- groes : here they sold their mattrasses and bought amaches, a lighter kind of bedding : they took up their abode in a small hut, and the only provision they could procure was a few fowls. This village is eighteen leagues from the river above mentioned : leaving it at five in the morning, they crossed the * Journal of Dr Lavagnitio. New Montlily Magazine for Decern. ]82;"i, No. 60. MS. account, &c. 289 ROUTE TO GUATEMALA. mountain Del Micho, and arrived at Micho in th» evening, a distance of about seven leagues. " The road we traversed on that day was horribly bad, and we often sunk deep into the mud. In the rainy season the mules often perish in lakes of mud. Sometimes the traveller passes on the verge of precipices, where it is necessary to shut his eyes not to be terrified by beholding danger in its most frightful aspect. Tlien he is forced to trust en- tirely to the experience of the mules, which are wonderfully sagacious in selecting paths, but not- withstanding this sagacity, they sometimes sank to the belly in mud. At other times, the traveller is compelled to pass on an inclined plane, from which he every instant appears destined to slip and fall into quagmires. If his attention be diverted from his perils and difficulties, he hears the roarings of lions and tigei's, and a confused noise arising from the bowlings of animals, and the singing of birds, the beautiful and lively colours of whose plumage, seems to be brought into view in some sort to qua- lify the scene of horror and of fright around. " The travellers slept in a hut at Micho, boiled a fowl, and made some soup with biscuit. Nexi day they continued their journey, on the top of a mountainous pine-ridge, where they still heard the roarings of tigers — the road tolerably good, but the descent inconvenient ; they then came to a grove of wild palms : in some places the scene was beautiful, in others horribly savage. In the afternoon they ari ived at Encumtros, a mean ham- let with few inhabitants, on the banks of the river Montagua, having a post-house, and custom- house officers : the distance from Micho is about six leagues. From Encuentroa to Guana is four SAN AKTONIO. ZACAPA. 289 lej^es, the road mountainous. From thence to Gualam, where the country begins to assume a better appearance, and to be in some degree inha- bited, the distance is four leagues more. " Gualam is a country containing four thousand souls : the district is daily increasing in prosperity and popu- lation by reason of the river Montagua passing in its neighbourhood, by which stream, all the merchandise from Omoa is transported to Guate- mala. " On the 5th of May they travelled two leagues to San Antonio, where they found provisions cheap ; and as none were to be had on the road, they here renewed their store. From San Antonio to San Pablo, an Indian village with a church, the distance \sjive leagues : they arrived there at eight in the evening, and reposed till eleven, when, trust- ing to the light of the moon, they went three leagues farther to Zacapa, a large village situated in an extensive plain. The road last gone over was steep and stony ; they often met convoys of mules laden with merchandise, and saw many tents filled with goods lying in heaps, guarded by one or two white men ; and they observed some Indians travelling nearly naked and loaded like " beasts of burden. " The heat of the sun was oppressive, and created such intolerable thirst, that the sight of a hut promising a draught of water was hailed as a luxury. At a short distance from Zacapa the river of that name unites with the San Augustine to form the river Montagua, which at Gualam, nine leagues farther, becomes navigable for large canoes forty leagues to the sea. F'rom Zacapa to Similappa consisting of about a hun- 2 A 290 OMOA TO GUATEMALA. dred small huts, the distance is eigJit leagues, and Sobecas is four leagues farther. The roads were strown with dead horses and cows, in consequence of the pastures being universally burnt up. Pro- ceeding by Guastatojas, a town containing several stone houses, to Incontro and Roncadilla, seven leagues distant — they ascended a mountain, and passed over various hills in succession, four leagues to Montegrande, and from thence to the estate of father Caballeros,^Ve leagues farther. Travelling latterly was pleasanter, the road being more shaded from the sun. On the 13th of May they travelled on a nanow road on the brink of a precipice, near to an ex- tinguished volcano ; and passing over a high moun- tain reached the estate of San Jose,^re leagues from the estate last mentioned. Here they found the air cool and salubrious. They rested in the evening at another estate two leagues farther, and next moi-ning (the \^th of 3Iay) went forward by a road, at first good, but which gradually grows worse to the city of Guatemala, situated in a plain, which, although badly cultivated, contains many Indian villages. They had frequently during the last few days met troops of Indians " of both sexes loaded like beasts of burden, walking to the sound of a drum. " It seems only necessary to add, that the whole distance from Omoa to the city of Guatemala is ninety leagues ; and that, by a re- port of their own Chamber of Commerce, inercbant- dise cannot, in many instances, be transported, from the Bay of Hondura.s, to the capital, in less than eight months ! The route hy the River San Juan, therefore, al- tliough at an inconvenient distance from the Cen- LEAVE BALIZE. 291 tral part of the States, is evidently the one by which European commerce will ultimately pass to the side of the Pacific. There is still a third road, namely, that by Matina and Cartago ; but its distance from the capital of the New States, and the want of a hai bour on the Atlantic side, form insuperable objections to its ever becoming attrac- tive except to smugglers. To return to my proceedings at Balize — I had drawn up and delivered to Colonel Arthur and the Reverend Mr Armstrong a short sketch of tlie different settlements where the establishmertt of missionaries and commercial depots were most likely to prove successful, and these enlightened men seemed to be fully impressed with the im- portance of the subject, both in a public and pri>- vate point of view ; but the unjust clamours afterwards raised and kept up by a few in- terested individuals against these worthy men, whose only crime seems to have been a desire to do good, and to dispense irapai'tial justice to all classes, without distinction of rank or colour, pre- vented their sound and charitable endeavours from being eft'ectual. The colonel was shortly recalled from the superintendency, — to the great regret and dissatisfaction of the population of Balize ; which circumstance, together with the wavering conduct of the Mosquito King, the jarring interests of the Balize merchants, and other circumstances not in- teresting to the general reader, rendered it neces- sary, after one or two inefficient voyages, to seek more effectual support in England. But I was still destined, before leaving the Western world, to be involved in another danger- ous adventui-e. The small schooner in which I 292 TAKEN BY PIRATES. was proceeding from Balizc to Jamaica was cap- tured, near the Island of Cuba, by a large pirati- cal row-boat, containing a numerous crew of fero- cious desperadoes of all colours. Without the means of effectual resistance, and being at the moment nearly becalmed, we had no alternative but quietly to submit to our fate. Having plun- dered our persons of eveiy thing valuable, the pirates ordered us to quit the vessel in a leaky old canoe, and await their fuither pleasure at a small desert kay or island, seen at a little distance. When in the act of going over the schooner's side, one of these gentry took a fancy to my jacket, (I had previously lost my hat), which I pulled off, and threw down at his feet, telling him to " take it." Not liking the manner in which I complied with his request, he without ceremony struck a furious blow at my head with liis cutlass, the weight of which sent me into the canoe in a state of insen- sibility. When I recovered my recollection, I found that I had instinctively put myself in a de- fensive attitude, while he was deliberately taking aim at me with a pistol which fortunately missed fire, and in the meantime my companions kept pulling away from the vessel. We landed for a short period on the Sandy Kay; but having no doubt that, 80 soon as the pirates had removed the most valuable part of the cargo, they would set her on fire, and complete their crime by rnmdering us, we came to the determination of endeavouring to effect our escape. Stopping the leaks in our crazy canoe in the best manner we could, we got her round to the side of the kay opposite to that on which they were plundering the schooner ; md, keeping the kay inteiposed between us, diiiv ESCAPE TO CUBA. 293 ing the night, in the course of which we saw the light of the burning schooner, we rowed in the direction of the Island of Cuba, the south side of which we happily reached, — and entering a small creek, we waded for sometime through mud and swamps, until we came so a small Spanish fort or outpost, where we were well treated, and shortly afterwards sent, across the Island of Havan- nah, from whence, I readily obtained a passage home to England. A 2 A P P E N D I X. Note I. Preface, page xix. « I Alonso de Ojeda, servant of the most high and powerfi'ul Kings of Castile and Leon, the conquerors of barbarous nations, their messenger and captain, notify to you and declare, in as ample form as I am capable, that God ouir Lord, who is one and eternal, created the heaven and the' earth, and one man and one woman, of whom you anid we, and all the men who have been or shall be in the world, are descended. But as it has come to pass through! the number of generations during more than five thousanid years, that they have been dispersed into difler- ent partts of the world, and are divided into various king- doms amd provinces, because one country was not able to contain them, nor could they have found in one the means of subsiistence and preservation ; therefore God our Lord gave thee charge of all these people to one man, named St Peter, whom he constituted the Lord and head of all the human irace, that all men, in whatever place they are born, or in wlhatever faith or place they are educated, might yield obiedience unto him. The whole world he hath sub- jected to his jurisdiction, and commanded him to establish his residlence in Rome, as the most proper place for the govern rnient of the world. He likewise promised and gave hirm power to establish his authority in every other part of tthe world, and to judge and govern all Christians, Moors, .Jews, Gentiles, and all other people of whatever sect or fi'aith they may be. To him is given the name of Pope, whiich signifies admirable, great father and guardian, because ihe is the father and governor of all men. Those who live(d in the time of this holy father obeyed and ac- knowledlged him as their Lord and King, and the Em« peror of the universe. The same has been observed with respect tco them who, since his time, have been chosen to the pontiificate. Thus it now continues, and will conlimie to the emd of the world. 2% APPENDIX. " One of these pontiffs, as Lord of the world, hatfi made a grant of these Islands, and of the Tierra Firme of the Ocean Sea, to the Catholic Kings of Castile, Don Ferdinand and Donna Isabella, of glorious memory, and their successors, our Sovereigns, with all they contaii», as is more fully expressed in certain deeds passed up>on that occasion, which you may see if you desire it. Thus his Majesty is King and Lord of these: Islands, and of the Continent, in virtue of this donation ; and as King and Lord aforesaid, most of the islands to which his title hath been notified have recognised his Majesty, and now yield obedience and subjection to him as their Lord, voluntarily and without resistance ; and instantly, as soon as they re- ceived information, they obeyed the religious men sent by the King to preach to them, and to instruct them in our holy faith ; and all these, of their own free will, without any recompense or gratuity, became Christians, and con- tinue to be so ; and his Majesty having received them graciously under his protection, has commanded that they should be treated in the same manner as his other sub- jects and vassals. You are bound and obliged to act in the same manner. Therefore I now entreat and require you to consider attentively what I have declared to you : and that you may more perfectly comprehend it, that you take such time as is reasonable, in order that you may acknowledge the church as the superior and guide of the universe, and likewise the holy father called the Pope, in his own right, and his Majesty by his appointment, as King and Sovereign Lord of these Islands, and of the Tierra Firme ; and that you consent that the aforesaid holy fathers shall declare and preach to you the doctrines above mentioned. If you do this, you act well, and per- form that to which you are bound and obliged ; and his Majesty, and I in his name, will receive you with love and kindness, and will leave you, your wives and children, free and exempt from servitude, and in the enjoyment of all you possess, in the same manner as the inhabitants of the islands. Besides this, his Majesty will bestow upon you many privileges, exemptions, and rewards. But if you will not comply, or maliciously delay to obey my in- junction, then, with the help of God, I will enter your country by force ; I will carry on war against you with the utmost violence; I will subject you to the'yoke of obeiieace to the Church and King ; I will take your wives and ch id- APPENDIX. 297 men, and will make them slaves, and sell or-dispose of them according to his Majesty's pleasure ; I will seize your goods, and do you all the miscliief in my power, as re- bellious subjects, who will not acknowledge or submit to their lawful i^overeign. And I protest that all the blood- shed and calamities which shall follow are to be imputed to you, and not to his Majesty, or to me, or the gentlemen ■who serve under me ; and as I have now made this de- claration and requisition unto you, I require the notary here present to grant me a certificate of this, subscribed in proper form. " NotkII. Page 53. Porto BeHo has often been described. The harbour was discovered by Columbus in 1502, and the town built in 1584). It was captured by the Buccanier Captain Morgan about the year 1680; by Admiral Vernon in ITiO ; and again by Sir Gregor MacGregor in 1819. The Isthmus is here about sixty miles broad. The direct route overland to Panama, tiie seat of the American Con- gress, is described by Surgeon Weatherhead, who, with his companions in misfortune, travelled it in 1819. Their first day's journey was by narrow and difficult paths through bushes, brambles, and stunted trees : they repeatedly crossed a rapid river, and late in the afternoon began to ascend the heights of Santa Clara by a path narrow, steep, and in some places so perpendicular, that one at a time they were obliged to climb upon their hands and feet ; in other places they sunk to their knees in mud, extricating themselves by means of the roots of the trees and bushes. They rested in huts on those heights, and laext morning, after a difficult descent, they passed through mountainous forests to a small but rapid river in a narrow ravine, with immense sandstone rocks on each side ; after crossing it eleven times, they by a narrow pass reached the station of Bucaron, surrounded by high mountains. Next morning passing up a deep glen, the road broken up and full of holes, where they sunk to the knees in mud, they passed over the height, but found a mountain.-stream on the other side so swollen by the mighty rains, that they were forced to retrace their steps to Bucaron. Next day, pass- ing this stream, they ascended a succession of hills and mmintains, by a path sometimes winding, and at others In 298 APPENDIX. a perpendicular direction ; and, crossing the river mo Bess than thu'ty-one times, reached tlie station of Alrass. Niexi morning they again repeatedly crossed the river,, aind passed over a high ridge to St Juans, a place consiistnng of about fifty bamboo huts. They next day crossed the river three times, and from a high mountain had th.e first view of die Pacific. Resting another night on the ground, they passed tlirough woods, swamps, meadows, and sa- vannahs, to the city of Panama. The otlier route from Porto Bello, by the river Chagre to Cruces and Panama, notwithstanding the difficulty of propelling boats against the rapid current of the river to Cruces, presents fewer difficulties, and is better adapted for the conveyance of goods, especially from the Pacific to the side of the At- lantic. — Weatherhead's " Account of the Expedition a- gainst the Isthmus of Darien. " Longman & Co., 1821. Note III. page 38. An English sailor, who, in the year 1730, sojourned a few days at the Spanish village of Chiriqui, on the side of the Pacific, thus describes an incursion of the Valientes. *' During my residence at the Governor's house, and at a time when I lay dangerously ill of a fever, came a com- pany of roving Indians into the town, and plundered it of much riches. The inhabitants being few in number, and unprepared to receive an enemy, were under the necessity of submitting to whatever was imposed on them ; and after they had ravaged the town as they thought fit, they committed one of the most outrageous cruelties that could possibly enter into the heart of man. There was but one clergyman in the town, who was a Spaniard, and of the order of St Francis ; him they seized on, and put to death." In the midst of his torments they said, "that this was but a small revenge for the torrent of Indian blood heretofore spilled by the Spaniards. With the deplorable catastroplie of this unhappy gentleman their fury ceased ; and they attempted to put no other person to death, but declared, had they met more Spaniards in the town, tliey would have served them all in the same manner. After this, the enemy, being in number between two and three hundred, (men and women), came to the Governor's house, which was no better prepared to receive them than the rest of the people; and when they had ransacked the APPENDIX. 299 greatest part of it, and taken out such things as they liked best, they at last came into tlie room where I lay sick, and the first question they asked me was, what countryman I was ? 1 quickly answered an Englishman, taken by Spa- nish pirates, and cruelly used by them; and was now waiting for an opportunity to get home to my own coun- try. They assured me they would do me no injury; but, on the contrary, if I would put myself under their pro- tection, and go along with them, they would do me all the service in their power, and would furnisli me with all manner of things necessary towards forwarding my getting home, which I might do with greater ease and expedition by their means, than any other way I could propose : for they were Indians that inhabited on the North Sea, where vessels frequently arrived from Jamaica to trade with them ; they had some knowledge of the English, and loved them very well, though they abliorred the Spaniards ; and as they had never yet been conquered by them, they were determined utterly to defy them, and all tlieir adherents. " The murder of the priest, frightened the sailor too much to trust himself with them, and they marched off with their plunder without opposition. — Cockburn s NarrcUivem Note IV., page 14-3. " It is not doubted, " (says Mr Rodgers, in a letter to the President of the Antiquarian Society of London, read April 6th 1780), " that the natives had formerly many arts among them, which have been lost for several centu- ries, and even known to have existed by tradition only, and by a few specimens still scattered in the interior, and, at present, uncultivated parts of the district. " An Intel- ligent gentleman acquainted with their language, <' had the curiosity, under their direction, to take a journey into the interior parts of the country of seventy or eighty miles ; and, guided by them, he found, on digging, many curious pieces of antiquity, but most of them too massive to be re- moved : and, amongst the rest, a prodigious quantity of such masques as are here exhibited, which his Indian con- ductors told him were the likenesses of chiefs, or other eminent persons, who had been formerly buried there, and that it was their custom to mix gold-dust with the clay of these portraits, which were, in general, heads or busts only, and often entire figures. These were placed at the heads 300 APPENDrX. of the deceased, wliose bodies were enclosed in a fins earth of red porcelain elegantly engraved. One thing ia observable, tli.-it the present race of natives have not the least knowledge of the art of making these masques ; nor of forming a composition which is likewise found with them, or near the places where they are discovered, and which is so hard, that no tool, how finely soever tempered, ■will make the least impression on it. To the above account may be added, that one of these pieces is an entire foot, which, if it were Roman, would be called a votive foot ; another is a head with swollen eyes and nose, and a sore crown, which would likewise be thought votive of a person recovered of these disorders, and a third represents two children who died young. Many of these Terra Cottas, have their backs concaved, by which we may imagine they are parts of sepulchral urns, if we bad any authority for such a supposition. Se- veral of these masques are evidently of faces tatoo'd, a practise long disused on the Shore. " These masques were brought from the Mosquito Sliore, about tlie year 1775. — Vide Archceologia, vol. 6th p. 107. Note V. page 240. A long enumeration of the articles requisite for the In- dian and Central American trade, would noxv be uninterest- ing to the merchant as well as to the generality of readers because recent speculations and publications iiave given access to much information on the suLgect. It is, therefore, only necessary to observe, that the articles requisite for the Central States, are nearly similar to those demanded in Mexico and other parts of Spanish America. The In- dians constantly require coarse linens of every kind- handkerchiefs and coarse cotton articles, chiefly showy red colours-^moscheates or cutlass blades, of the best kind — spear-pointed, large clasp and table knives — felling axes, saws, locks and hinges, — nails, large needles, pins, and fish-hooks, — iron pots, frying pans, flat iron plates, and similar other articles of iron ware — tin ware for cooking, of all sorts — small glass beads of lively colours — small Dutch looking glasses. Rum is indispensable for the In- dian trade — also gunpowder, muskets and fowling pieces : the New States object to the introduction of the latter ar- ticles amongst the Indians, but these people can always be supplied by the free traders. APPENDIX. 301 Many other articles required by the chiefs will suggest themselves to a speculator, and it seems only requisite to observe further, that such goods as are likely to be sent into the interior, should be packed in small light cases, such as are easily moved, and not liable to be damaged by moisture. Note VI. page 256. A contract has recently been formed between the Go- vernment of Central America, and a company of citizens of the United States, for opening a canal through the lake of Nicai'agua, the principal conditions of which are, that it shall be of such size as to admit vessels of the greatest burden possible. The Central States permit the cutting of timber necessary for the works, — furnish such surveys as have already been made on the subject^ — and give every facility in making new ones, and in procuring workmen. The States bind themselves to indemnify owners of lands, farms, and other property through which the canal may pass, for all damages incurred thereby. Ten per cent, in- terest to be paid on the capital expended by the company, who are also to receive two thirds of the duties on all vessels, goods, and produce, passing through the canal, the States to receive the other third. The Company are also to re- ceive one half of the net proceeds of the canal, for the term of seven years, after the Central States shall have repaid them the capital and ten per cent, interest ; and, to have the exclusive privilege of the navigation of the canal by steam boats, free of duties, for twenty years after its completion, with the right of fixing their own rates charge- able for freight and passage money, and the rate of com- pensation for towing vessels. The navigation to be open to all friendly and neutral powers. The Company are to hare a preference for the supply of the castles and fortifica- tions, to be erected on the canal, with arms, ammunition, and stores ; and also, in the contracts for building and equipping vessels of war, to be kept on the Lake of Nica- agua for the protection of the canal. This contract was Igned by the President of the Central States, in the month if June 1826, and has received the approbation of the Se- rctary of State, and of the Treasury of the United States. 2 B 302 APPENDIX. Note VII. page 257. Marcasite of gold is in the shape of little balls or nodules about the size of walnuts, nearly round, heavy tind of a brown colour on the outside. The metallic stones that contain gold, generally contain antimony, vitriol, sulphur, copper, platina, or silver, and particularly the latter. The method usually employed in South America to extract the gold, is to break the metallic stones pretty small, with iron mallets. They are afterwards ground in mills, to powder, which is then passed through wire sieves, the last sieve being very fine ; The coarsest particles are thrown back into the mill. The fine powder is then laid in wooden troughs with quicksilver and water, it is well kneaded, and left to saturate in the air and sun for forty-eight hours ; the wa- ter is then poured off repeatedly, and the recrementitious earth is thus readily separated, leaving the gold and quick- silver amalgamated. The quicksilver is then evaporated by distillation, and the gold being fused in crucibles, is cast into plates or ingots. Note VIII. page 266. Few people are acquainted with the immense size and value of some logs of mahogany brought to this countr}'. The following may serve as an example. " The largest and finest log of mahogany ever imported into this coun- try has been recently sold by auction at the docks in Li- verpool. It was purchased by James Hodgson, Esq. for three hundred and seventy-eight pounds, and afterwards sold by him for five hundred and twenty-five pounds, and if it open well, it is supposed to be worth one thousand pounds. If sawn into vineers it is computed that the cost of labour in the process will be seven hundred and fifty pounds. The weight at the King's beam is six tons thir- teen hundred weight. " Macclesfield Courier, Oct. 1S23. THE END. PRIXTED BY J. HUTCHISOK, FOR THE HEIRS OF D. WlLtlSOK.